U n
i ver s i ty of California, Los Angeles
The
Fritz L. Hoffmann Collection
A Gift of
Olga Mingo Hoffmann
)94
^J^/Ji.
^u-iL^iL
THE
MINERAL AND OTHER RESOURCES
OF THK
ARGENTINE REPUBLIC
(LA PLATA)
IN 1869.
PUBLISHED BY SPECIAL AUTHORITY OF THE
NATIONAL GOVERNMENT.
BY
MAJOR F. IGNACIO RICKARD,
FELLOW OF THE GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY; FELLOW OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETT
COR. MEM. OF THE ANTHROPOLOGICAL SOCIETY; ASSOC. INST. CIVIL ENGINEERS, &,:. fto. ;
GOVERNMENT INSPECTOR-GENERAL OF MINES OF THE ARGENTINE R EPUBLIC.
LONDON:
LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO,
1870.
LONDON :
DUNLOP AND CO., PRINTERS,
King'9-Head Covirt, Shoe Lane,
E.C.
(Ml
^^/xL^nxiJi
DEDICATION
TO
H IS EXCELLENCY
Dr. don DOMINGO F. SARMIENTO,
CONSTITUTIONAL PRESIDENT
OF
THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC;
SCHOLAR, SOLDIER, AND STATESMAN;
SELF MADE AND SELF SUSTAINING;
A WISE RULER ;
A PRUDENT DIPLOMATIST ;
AND GREAT CHAMPION OF EDUCATION.
Accept this small tribute of esteem and admiration, from one who has
the honour of toiling with you in the noble task of stimulating
industry and civilization in your native country. May
this little book prove another step in the right
direction, and assist in developing some of
your grand schemes for the regene-
ration of your peoples.
With profound respect, believe me to be,
Your Excellency's sincere Friend,
THE AUTHOR.
P R E E A C E .
Prp:vi()US to 1865, when the Aroenthie Republic first
appeared as a borrower for a small sum in our mar-
ket, the very existence of such a country was almost
ignored in Great Britain. Five short years have
Avrought a wonderful change. Its Bonds, issued then
at 72 J, are to-day quoted at 92^, and likely to reach
U5 before the end of the year. This is the most elo-
quent proof I can give of the growing importance and
settled political state of that vast Republic. If its credit
abroad is good, so is its prosperity and internal wealth
increasing daily at home. Ten years ago there were
not 50 miles of railway in the country ; now there are
nearly 500 miles completed and working, whilst nearly
800 more are in course of construction or projected.
Ten years ago we had not a single mile of telegraph
in the country ; to-day the electric wire may be met
on the wild pampa, the barren desert, or climbing the
giant Andes and girding the Atlantic to the Pacific.
A submarine cable connects Monte Video with Buenos
Ayres. The capital of Brazil will soon be in instan-
taneous communication with us overland, by a route not
less than 1,000 miles ; and within a year we may expect
to be in telegraphic communication with Europe via
the Pacific, Panama, and New York.
A National Exhibition of the products of the country,
and to which will be admitted a few objects from
Europe, will be held at Cordoba in October next. A
well appointed Observatory will be also concluded by
that time at the same place, and an able astronomer
has been engaged by the National Government to make
observations in the midst of that "sea of land," where
PREFACE.
no intervening mountains exist to interfere with his
labours, and where im])ortant discoveries are expected
to be made.
All these advanced and enlightened movements will
tend to show hoW rapid has been our progress, and how
important will be our future career. With a fast in-
creasing immigration, an arduous and long protracted
Avar just concluded, peace and tranquillity reigning
throughout the country, and a liberal and progressive
Government, established on a firm constitutional basis,
lead by an able President and Prime Minister, I am
_j:::^?i§tified in expressing my sincere conviction that the
Argentine Republic is destined to become the first in
commercial wealth and influence of all the South
American Republics.
I have come forward to lend my insignificant aid in
making known a few of her vast resources, and I trust
the following pages may serve to instruct those eager for
information, whilst they will not tire the general reader.
I do not pretend for a moment to any literary merit
in its production, well knowing that it has none, but
simply to convey, in plain concise language, such infor-
mation as I possess regarding a country comparatively
unknown, and consequently unappreciated in Europe.
My very limited stay in England has not allowed me
to devote that time and attention to the preparation and
correction of the present work for the press that I could
have wished, and this must be my excuse for any errors
that may be noted, more especially in the latter pages
of the book.
Consuhite General of the Argentine Republic,
London, April, 1870.
CONTENTS
P»ga
Note Addressed to the Minister of the Interior, ac-
companying Official Report 9
Introductory Remarks 13
Province of San Luis: —
Geographical Position, General Physical Aspect, &c 21
Climate and Natural Vegetation 25
Principal Productions, Exports, &c 27
Capital of the Province 29
The Indians Driven Back 30
Mineral Resources, &c 31
Canada Honda Mining District 36
Placer Washings, Description of 38
Mining District of La Carolina 41
Gold Produce of La Carolina and Canada Honda, Geological
Formation or District, &c 45
Means of Communication and Transport 46
Population of Province 46
Province of Mendoza : —
Geographical Position, General Physical Aspect, &c 47
Climate, Soil, and Natural Vegetation 55
Land under Cultivation, Produce of Wheat, &c 57
The Grape, its Growth, and Wine Manufacture 56
Fattening of and Traffic in Cattle 59
Town of Mendoza, Public Buildings, &c 60
Immigration to Province 62
Mineral Resources, &c 63
Famous Copper Mine in Cerro Payen 64
Mining District of Paramillo de Uspallata 65
Messrs. Canto and Villanueva's Reduction Works 69
Extensive Petroleum Deposits 76
Thermal Springs 78
Means of Communication and Transport " 80
Population of Province 8 1
Province of San Juan: —
Geographical Position, Physical Aspect, &c 82
Climate, Soil, Natural Vegetation, and Agriculture 87
The City of San Juan, Public Buildings, &c 92
M ineral Resources 99
Mining District of Tontal loo
Amalgamation Works " Sorocayense " 108
I Smelting and Amalgamation Works at " Hilario" no
Reduction Works at Castaiio 114
Mining District of Castafio 115
■%^'
CONTENTS.
/Gold Mining District of Gualilan ii8
— ^ Gold Mining District of Guachi 122
Mining District of I.a Huerta 126
Coal Deposits 133
Reduction Works " El Argentine " 137
Means of Communication and Transport 144
Province of La Rioj \ :
Geographical Position, Physical Aspect, &c 147
Climate, Soil, Irrigation, and Natural Vegetation 152
City of La Rioja, Public Buildings, &c 156
Population of Province 160
Mineral Resources, &c If>o
Silver Mines of Famatina 162
Auriferous District 163
Silver Mines of Cerro Negro 164
Mining District of La Mejicana 166
Reduction Establishments 170
Reduction of Argentiferous Lead Ores 177
Province of Catamarca : —
General Physical Aspect, Description of Soil, Climate, &:c. ... 184
The City of Catamarca 194
Mineral Resources, &c 200
Carranza, Molina, and Co.'s Mines 206
Copper Reduction Works 208
Auriferous and Argentiferous Copper Smelting at Pilcao 209
Province of Tucuman : —
General Physical Aspect, Description of Soil, Climate, &c. ... 222
Natural Vegetation, Productions, and Agriculture 229
City of Tucuman 234
Extent of Land under Cultivation 237
Cheapness of Labour 238
Province of Santiago del Estero : —
General Physical Aspect, &c 239
Nature of Soil 243
Climate and Natural Productions 244
Cultivation of Cereals, Manufactures, &c 247
Town of Santiago del Estero 249
Province of Cordoba : —
General Physical Aspect of Province 253
The Soil of the Eastern Plain of Cordoba 257
Climate, Natural Productions, Agriculture, &:c 259
Principal Commerce and Exportation of Cattle 260
City of Cordoba, Principal Edifices, &c 263
The Press of Cordoba 266
Colonization and Future Prospects of the Province 267
Letter of President Sarmiento on Immigration 271
Mineral Resources, Sec 276
Reduction Works 285
Coal Deposits 294
General Observations 296
9
Tn-tpednr Gpneral of Mlneit' department. "]
Buenos Ayrrs, June I9th, 1869,
To His Excellency the Minister op the Interiok,
Dr. Dalmacio Velez Sarsfield.
Your Excellency,
Under date of 19th November last I received your
instructions to proceed on a tour of inspection tlirougli the mineral
districts of the Republic, and present a detailed report thereon to the
National Government. The principal points contained in those in-
structions were as follows : —
"1. To visit the mines of La Carolina in San Luis; those of
Uspallata and Paramillo in Mendoza ; Tontal, Castailo, Huachi,
Gaalilan, and La Huerta in San Juan ; Famatina in La Rioja ; the
mineral districts of Belen (Capillitas), and the copper, gold, and
silver mines in Catamarca ; and the galena and other mines in
Cordoba.
" 2. To report on the different classes of ores extracted, and on
those not yet of commercial value which may be utilized later on ;
on mineral substances useful in the arts, and which may be con-
sidered as aiixillaries in the smelting or treatment of ores; on mines
in active operation, with the results obtained and number of work-
men employed ; on metallurgical establishments, companies, capital,
machinery used, systems in practice, and the obstacles and draw-
backs with which they have to contend ; on coal or carboniferous
deposits — their quality, extent, and commercial value ; on roads and
means of communication, and how the same may be developed and
improved."
To all these points I have devoted my most serious attention, and
now present to your Excellency a detailed account of my mission.
The mineral regions of the Republic are of vast extent ; the means
of communication and transport slow, and in the worst possible
B
10
condition. The time at my disposal was extremely short for the
acf^oraplishment of the great task I had to perform, and this in the
height of summer and in regions at once hot, barren, aadjtenie, the
difficulties with which I had to contend were, therefore, neither few
nor unimportant. Nevertheless, I do not believe there is a single
known mine in the provinces visited which I have not inspected,
and the length of my report will prove to your Excellency with
what minuteness I have collected the data submitted to your COU'
sideiation.
I have had to encounter many obstacles, and to work incessantly in
order to obtain the statistics which accompany my report, for the
miners rarely keep books or accounts ; the majority pay very little
attention to preserving a record of expenses and returns, and few
conld give me any information on this subject.
Few in the Republic could have believed that 2,687 persons are
employed in our nascent mining industry, or at the rate of 17iu for
every 1,000 inhabitants in the country. In California — a country
which dedicates its attention almost entirely to mining — -52,000
persons are exclusively emjjloyed in its mines, or at the rate of 66^3
for every thousand inhabitants. Nineteen years ago there were not
1,500 persons so engaged.
The 2,687 persons employed in our mining industry have, doubtless,
families more or less numei'ous dependent upon them for support.
It is not an exaggerated calculation to state these at an average of
say three to one, or 8,061 ; and, further, if we include those who are
indirectly dependent, as being occupied in providing fuel and articles
of necessity for their maintenance, at the rate of two to one, we have
then a total of 32,244 persons materially interested in our mining
prosperity, or 21^ for every 1000 inhabitants of the country. But
it must be borne in mind that nearly two-thirds of the entire po-
pulation of the country — say, 1,250,000 — inhabit Buenos Ayres and
other riverine provinces almost exclusively dedicated to grazing
and agriculture ; hence we must take the projDortion of those engaged
in mining pursuits in relation only to the number of the inhabitants
of the Andine or mineral provinces ; and in this case it would re-
precent oo^ for every 1,000.
Our poor miners, contending against a thousand difficulties and
drawbacks, and, above all, with the want of means of communication
and trausjiort, have invested £290,000 in mining operations, and in
the year 1868 produced 3,G54 ounces of gold, 418,273 ounces of
11
silver, and 751 o tons of copper, the value of which, excluding 1,U86|
tons of lead, amounts to about £133,000. The proportion of this
gross return to the capital invested is 45" 60 per cent.
These figures with regard to our mineral productions, probably
fall short of the actual truth, as we have no reliable data as to
what is taken away by plrqioineros (erratic miners) and others,
who steal the precious metals and carry them clandestinely out of
the country. I am anxious to avoid any exaggeration in estimating
the mining produce of the Republic, and have, I believe, gone
rather under than over the mark in this respect.
The majority of the systems for reduction of the ores are de-
fective and costly, and more particularly those for the reduction
of argentiferous lead and for amalgamation. In the former the loss
of precious metal (as also the lead) cannot be less than 25 per cent,
of the total quantity of silver present in the ores. Up to the present
time lead has had little or no commercial value in San Juan, and
a total loss of 50 per cent, is there incurred. In Cordoba the loss is
not less, but the remaining lead is utilized for the manufacture of
shot.
All this shows the necessity of many reforms, which science, ex-
perience, and time can alone introdu.ce. Schools and instruction
are needed to avoid the errors which spring from inexperience and
ignorance. We want foreign immigration, composed of men of in-
telligence and practically acquainted with mining and metallurgy.
Thus the material capital will be furnished and pecuniary capital
will soon follow.
Without further deviation from the subject of this report, I will
simply state that during the 208 days which I have been in com-
mission I have ridden 4,320 miles, tiie greater part over rough and
barren country, and through rugged passes of the Cordillera of the
Andes.
In conclusion, I have much pleasure to inform your Excellency
that the Provincial Governments have readily afforded me every
co-operation, and have done everything in their power to assist me
in efiectually carrying out the objects of my mission.
Trusting your Excellency will lay the present communication, with
the accompanying report, before his Excellency, the President of the
Republic,
I have the honour to remain, your Excellency's
Most obedient Servant,
F. IGNACIO RICKARD, F.G.S., A.I.C.E., &c.
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.
In presenting tu the English reading public a, trans-
lation of my Official Report on the Mineral and other
Resources of the Argentine Republic, I am only influ-
enced by the desire to make known, in however superficial
and imperfect a manner, the great fields there existing for
the judicious employment of capital, energy, and intelli-
gence, which alone are required to develop and make it
productive.
For the first time since the Argentine Republic de-
clared its independence, has the Constitutional Govern-
ment been able to lay before the Congress a succint
and authentic report upon the mining industry, struggling
as it is gradually to raise itself into notice, and having
to contend against all the preconceived prejudices of an
unbelieving, because an uninitiated, public in the capital
and lower provinces.
But President Sarmiento, whose practical experience
in Chili, Peru, and the United States, in connection with
mining matters, fully fits him for the task, resolved, on
ascending the Presidential chair, to make an effort to
bring prommently before the country the importance of
its mineral wealth. With rapidly increasing population
and railway communication, the risks and difficulties
which formerly surrounded initiatory undertakings of
this class are now rapidly disappearing. His great
14
object is to occuj)y the utteutioii of the masses, — hordes
of wandering gauchos — whose calling and modes of life
hitherto tended to induce a spirit of revolt against order
or governmental restraint, and hence at every oppor-
tunity joining in riotous and revolutionary outbreaks,
simply because they have not had a fixed and certain
means of livelihood. Now of all the occupations likely
to attract such a volatile and unsettled race as the
Hispano- American, I know of none so enticing and ex-
citing as mining, with its attendant industries.
This has been recently proved in the most unquestion-
able manner. I have known some of the most famous
gauchos and freebooters, who were for years justly
dreaded alike by Government and individuals, who are
now industriously occupied in working silver mines
in Rioja, attracting by their example their former com-
panions in arms, and behaving in the most exemplary
manner. Since mining has been fostered by the Govern-
ment in the Argentine States, during President Sarmi-
ento's administration, not a single outbreak has occurred,
and peace seems now to be established on a sure and
lasting basis.
The acquisition of mining property in that country
is one of the most simple and inexpensive procedures
possible to desire. The discoverer is entitled to all mineral
veins he may find in the mountains, without regard to
the owner of the soil, who exercises no right to the mine-
ral deposits contained beneath the surface — save and
except when he is the discoverer. This law, however,
does not apply to coal, salt, sulphur, or quarries — all of
which belong exclusively to the owner of the soil. But
in the case of mineral veins, the discoverer, or his re-
presentative, by purchase or otherwise, must comply
15
with certain rules and restrictions in order to secure
his or their title. That is to say, he must work the
claim (which consists of from 200 yards long by 100
wide to 200 yards square according to the underlie)
constantly, or at least without allowing 90 consecutive
days to elapse at any period, and with at least four
miners; otherwise he exposes the property to be de-
nounced by another (any one — the lirst who knows of
its forfeiture), who will be entitled to it on the same
terms as his predecessor, and must comply with similar
obligations.
The Government are prepared to treat in the most
liberal spirit all enterprises having for their object the
development of the mineral resources or manufacturing
industries in the republic, and I am authorized by his
Excellency, the President, to assure all intending in-
vestors who may go there with this object, that every
assistance and facility will be afforded them in the
realization of their projects.
Boundless tracts of the most fertile land, unpeopled
and neglected, exist in every state of the Republic,
requiring only population and energy, with a moderate
outlay, to make productive fields for profit and form
the basis of a fortune and home for hundreds of thou-
sands of our overburdened rural population. Blessed
with, perhaps, the finest climate in the world — where,
from the extent of territory, larger than Europe (ex-
cepting Russia), any temperature may be selected to
live in, — the Argentine Republic is destined to become,
at no distant day, the great rival of the United States
as a field for immigration ; and once populated, in even
a less degree than that country, its great internal wealth
and resources -agricultural as well as mineral — must
16
/ make it stride far ahead of it, and become at once the
\\ Great Republic of the South.
In no country in the world is the construction of rail-
ways so facile and inexpensive. Our great pampas, or
level plains, stretclmig away for a thousand miles east
and west, present no obstacle to the laying down of
permanent way, almost without earthworks. We pos-
sess iron and coal in large and as yet unknown quantities,
which, later on, will be developed and supply us with
that sine qua non for a nation's prosperity and civiliza-
tion.
Already the locomotive is penetrating slowly but
surely into the vast pampa, and every mile of rails laid
down is equivalent to a large instalment of capital to
develop our great resources.
The Central Argentine Railway has now arrived at
Cordoba, one of the most important mming districts
in the Republic, and surveys and explorations are actually
being made by a corps of Government Engineers for its
prolongation to the rich and fertile gardens of Tucuman,
where sugar, rice, tobacco, and cotton, sufficient to supply
Great Britain, might be produced with facility and suc-
cess. On its way there this important line will open
up to lucrative development the great auriferous copper
mines of Catamarca, where, at the present moment, and
notwithstanding the enormous expense of land carriage
over 800 miles of country on pack mules, the operations
in bar copper holding gold leave a reasonable profit to
Mr. Lafoue, the spirited owner of the mines. Last year
his net profit amounted to £12,000.
This line will also tend to develop the resources of the
rich and important province of Santiago del Estero, so
lonsr isolated from the centres of commerc e. We find
17
growing there, in the wildest kixuriance and abundance,
as an indigenous plant, the indigofera tinctoria^ producing
a first-class indigo, whose value has been determined
by competent judges in Europe. There we also find
in abundance the cochineal of commerce, but neglected,
save by the peasantry in dying their rough fabrics.
The eastern extension of this great trunk line, now
being carried out, in the direction of San Luis, Men-
doza, and San Juan, will open up a vast field in agricul-
tural, pastoral, vinicultural, and mineral wealth.
The rich silver-lead mines of San Juan and Mendoza
will then become objects of earnest competition, and
their produce, instead of going across the Andes to Chili,
will flow down to its natural outlet, the River Plate,
and swell the value of our exports by some millions of
dollars. The rich gold fields at Gualilan, in the province
of San Juan, now being worked by the Anglo- Argentine
Company with exclusively British capital and enterprise,
are second to none yet discovered in South America,
and will rival the famous Don Pedro North del Rey, in
Brazil, which has paid 100 per cent, for some years past,
and still continues. The able chairman of this latter,
Mr. Henry Haymen, is also at the head of our Anglo-
Argentine enterprise.
The San Luis gold fields are no less important in extent
and quality, and I trust to see within the next year
such an amount of capital and intelligence brought to
bear upon them as will produce brilliant results and
positive returns
Mendoza and San Juan can produce wine enough
to supply the whole of the lower Riverine Provinces,
and if proper care were exercised in its manufacture and
subsequent treatment, it would be of a class superior to
18
the majority of wines imported to Buenos Ayres from
Europe. I give, in its proper place, approximate statistics
of the actual produce, which is much more than there is
consumption for on the spot, and this might be increased
to an unlimited extent had we a cheap and expeditious
means of transport.
The provinces of Cordoba and Santa Fe as agricul-
tural districts offer many inducements to the over-
burdened tenant farmer and small occupier in Great
Britain, where the introduction of high class machinery
for cultivating the soil has now made their calling most
precarious and comparatively profitless. For they can-
not compete with steam on the one hand, nor on the
other afford to purchase expensive fertilizers to renovate
the already exhausted soil, which their ancestors tilled
for centuries. In the new world the reverse is the
case. There we find virgin ground so rich as almost to
require impoverishing before it will yield quality in
preference to quantity, in cereal and other crops, which
in Europe must be humoured and coaxed to mature at
/ Flax will grow in such abundance on our plains, and
of such long fibre, that manufacturers will eagerly com-
pete to secure it on presentation in European markets,
and the day is not far distant when the Argentine Ke-
public may stand foremost in the ranks as an exporter
C of this important staple.
The Central Argentine Railway Company possess
some 900,000 acres of first-class land, which is now
being rapidly populated by eager colonists, who, within
the next ten years, will form a large and important
community in themselves. Towns and villages will
rapidly spring up at intervals along the iron track, and
19
what is to-day a wilderness will soon become a luxuriant
garden, peopled with bright faces and studded with
happy homes.
In the province of Santa Fe, and accessable by large
navigable rivers (the Parana and its tributaries), recent
valuable concessions of land have been acquired by one
of the first commercial firms in Great Britain. Per-
suaded of the great future opening up in that territory, f J
the house of Messrs. J. Thomson, T. Bonar & Co,,
have resolved~to~ people a tract of i(55,0(JD~acres of
valuable land along the rivers, and will offer freehold
farms there for such a trifling sum, and with such gua-
rantees to the colonists, as cannot fail to attract a first-
class British population.
Owing to a scarcity of labour the Argentine Republic
has hitherto been an importer of flour, but from all
appearances it is soon likely to exceed in production the
internal consumption, and within a few years will begin
to rank as a large wheat exporting country — superseding
Chili and California in this respect, from its more
favourable geographical position, and proximity to
Europe and Brazil.
The sj^stem I have adopted in laying before my readers
the information contained in the following pages is simply
a translation of the original text, written by myself in
Spanish, and publi>.hed by order of the National Govern-
ment at Buenos Ayres. I give the diflerent provinces in
their order as they were visited by me during my late
tour of inspection, and being obliged to omit some of
the provinces of the Eepublic, as they do not bear ujDon
my principal subject — mining.
The Republic consists of 14 independent provinces,
I only describe 8, and the general description of some
20
in their physical and commercial aspects only, I have
found so exact and faithful in the new standard work
on the Argentine Confederation, written by the late
Dr. Martin de Moussy, that I cannot do better than
follow his text, translating it from the French. Un-
fortunately comparatively few copies of this valuable
book (3 vols.) are now in circulation, as nearly the whole
edition was destroyed by a fire which not long ago oc-
curred at the Government House in Buenos Ayres, and
which also resulted in the loss of a great part of the
public archives.
Having come to Europe on a mission from the Presi-
dent of the Republic, I am obKged, amid a host of other
things, to pass this work rapidly through the press, as
my time is so very short before returning. I must there-
fore beg for indulgence from my readers, and pray they
will not look upon it as a literary production, but simply
as a plain statement of dry facts, and an irregular com-
pilation of diversified matter, having only for its object
the publication of data from the most reliable sources
never heretofore given to the British public.
21
PROVINCE OF SAN LULS.
GENERAL PHYSICAL ASPECT, DESCRIPTION OF SOIL,
CLIMATE, Sec.
The province of San Luis is situated between 32° and 34°
30' south lat., and 67° and 68° 30' west long., and covers
about 2,000 square leagues. On the north it joins the
provinces of Rioja and Cordoba, where the salinas or salt
marshes of the River of Concaran mark its limits ; to the
north-west its confines with San Juan are marked by the
lagoons of Guanacacho and the prolongation of the Sierra
of las Quijadas ; to the west with that of Mendoza, by
the Rio Desaguadero ; to the south it enters the pampas,
stretching away to the Indian territory ; on the east it
joins the province of Cordoba at the Sierra de la Estan-
zuela, a spur of the great Cordovese chain.
To the north-east the general aspect is mountainous,
presenting a series of lovely valleys stretching away to
the Sierra of Cordoba. The first is that of the "Canada,"
to the north, which extends between the points of the
Sierra de Santa Barbara (connected with that of San
Luis), and the buttress of Chaquinchuna, south border
of the plateau of Pocho and of Nono ; the other, the
magnificent valley of Concaran, which is between the two
22
principal ranges. There are also some isolated moun-
tains towards the south. The remainder of the pro-
vince is flat ; the plain to the west of the mountains is
wooded, but to the south has fine pasture lands, which,
by a series of undulations, mingle with the pampas.
There is only one important river in this province,
the Rio Quinto, which takes its rise in " La Corohna," and
■flows through the heart of the Sierra, where there is
a series of roaring cascades; diverging to the east,
then to the south-east, it makes a vast semicircle and is
lost in the pampas at 34° lat., and forming the " banados "
or lagoons of the Juncal^ thus named from the aquatic
plants which grow there. This river now forms the
Indian frontier on the south, guarded by various new
forts, estabhshed by Colonel Mansilla, under President
Sarmiento.
The other rivers of the province are the Rio de Coulara,
which waters the valley of the Concaran ; the stream
of San Luis, which furnishes the water necessary for
irrigation and domestic use of the town ; and the streams
NogoH, San Francisco, and Quines, which are exhausted
by the inhabitants. The lake Bebedero, situate to the
south-west, is probably the remains of a vast interior
sea which supplies the actual basin of the Salinas.
This lake furnishes salt for all the neighbouring pro-
vinces, and supplies some very good fish ; after heavy
rains and freshets it receives a branch of the Desaguadero,
and forms some banados, or pools, towards its southern
extremity. There has been a remarkable fall in its
waters during the last 20 years. The large increase
of population may gradually affect the quantity of water
so necessary for the preservation of future generations.
The province of San Luis wants water, although it re-
23
ceives a good supply of rain, and cultivation is possible
without irrigation, but the success of sowing is never
certain without it.
The Sierra of San Luis occupies all the north-east Ox
the province. Its western boundary is the highest.
"La Punta" as far as San Francisco, " Pancanta," and
the " Monigote," elevate their naked summits to an
altitude of from 1,500 to 2,000 metres. The Tomalasta
at 2,200 metres is the highest of the system. The
range sinks in gentle declivities towards the east, and
terminates towards the north by several links, of which
the principal encloses the valley of Santa Barbara, and
which forms the thoroughfare to the northern provinces.
Near Tomalasta and Sololosta are evidences of origi-
nal volcanic action, but no crater is found, and the chain is
grassy upon its ridges and upon its plateau ; it has also
some in its valleys. Although principally of gneiss
and mica schist, we find some limestone and numerous
quartzose veins, holding gold, copper, lead and antimony.
To the south the Punta de San Luis, or rather of Los
Yenados, which was its first name, terminates the range.
Some isolated groups exist further south, such as Lince,
Tala, Cholanta, and Varela, in the neighbourhood of the
lake Bebedero. To the west are other granite ridges,
running from north to south, the Alto Pencoso giving
rise to the secondary chains of Las Palomas, Gigante
and Las Quijadas, which border the Kio Desaguadero and
the lagoons of Guanacacho, and are lost in the salines of
Rioja.
The plateau at the base of the hills of San Luis is
covered with a thick bed of granitic sand, very rich
in mica, of a peculiar lustre. At two leagues from
the foot of the mountains the soil is purely argillaceous
24
and often saline, especially in the district known as the
Canada de la Travesia, and which appears to be the
dry bed of an enormous sea, that, coming from the
north, would discharge its waters into Lake Bebedero.
The wells which have been sunk in these lands often
give salt water, but on approachng the mountains the
water is always sweet, and here are situate the principal
estancias or grazing farms. Water is found at a depth
varying from 8 to 30 metres. The argillaceous earth is
light and very fertile. In the south-east of the province
the earth is more vigorous and less salt. The borders
of the Rio Quinto and the adjacent plains have a soil
suitable either for cultivation or pastures, and sweet
water is found near the surface.
Earthquakes are sometimes felt in the province of San
Luis. In 1849 one occurred so severe as to injure some
houses which were not of very solid construction ; but
generally this phenomenon is light, and the inhabitants
do not regard it with fear. The heart of the moun-
tains shows evidences of volcanic action, for Toma-
lasta, Sololosta, and Intiguasi are trachytic, as are the
peaks of the Yerba Buena, Agua del Tala, la Cienega,
&c., in the Sierra of Cordoba.
The central range of high mountains in the midst
of vast plains attracts the clouds which come from
various parts of the horizon, and rain falls in all seasons,
but principally in summer. A remarkable phenomenon
is the formation of storms upon the Alto Pencoso; the
clouds seem balancing between the Sierra de San Luis
and the Andes, are forced to unite, and are condensed
upon this ridge, which is only 200 metres higher
than the neighbouring plain, and of an altitude of
6,000 above the level of the sea; whenever it rains at
25
San Luis, it is generally from the west, and upon this
point, where the clouds gather, whence they advance
towards the interior plain and the sierra. The pre-
yailing winds are from the north.
The winter is extremely mild, and only a little frost
falls, except in the mountains where the temperature is
regulated by the altitude. The heat in summer is intense,
although the air is often refreshed by storms and rain.
It freezes sometimes near the mountain, but never
over a great extent of land. The autumn and winter
are magnificent; the purity of the sky and the calmness
of the atmosphere are not to be surpassed. In short,
the climate is delicious and salubrious, intermittent
fevers are unknown, but rheumatism is prevalent, and
is accompanied with a remarkable debility in the mus-
cular system. Goitre is sometimes seen in the depart-
ment of San Francisco. The pneumonia of the Andes
shows itself now and then as an epidemic, but is not
so severe as in the north.
The natural vegetation is not remarkable, and is only
found in the well watered districts, such as the valley of
Concaran and the borders of Rio Quinto. The alterna-
tions of long dryness and short but heavy rains make
the arborescent vegetation wretched; this is limited to
jarillas, breas, chanar, piquillins, &c.,and these are pe-
culiar to the interior plain. The only tree which
acquires any magnitude is the white quebracho, and it
sometimes attains eight metres. Towards the south, on
the plains of Rio Quinto, grows the " calden," a species
of caroubeir, to the height of twelve to fifteen metres?
and is a fine and beautiful tree. The palm of Cordoba
is found near the town of San Francisco, at an altitude
of 800 metres. The southern plams produce only
26
herbaceous plants ; some gorges in a south-westerly
direction possess true trees; among them the "tala" is
predominant, which, with the algarrobo, calden, and
the white quebracho, furnish all the timber necessary
for the province.
All the vegetables imported from Europe succeed
admirably; the poplar is as vigorous as at Mendoza (of
which later on), the orange, pomegranate, fig, peach, and
vine are excellent, and there has been recently intro-
duced the almond, pear, apple, and apricot, which are
perfectly acclimatized. It is the same with vegetables ;
all succeed, if the inhabitants would only take the
trouble to cultivate them.
Wheat yields very abundantly, also lucerne, but
maize is everywhere most extensively cultivated, and
its yield is profuse. Although it rains plentifully in the
vicinity of the Sierra and of Alto Pencoso, yet irrigation
is generally practised where practicable, but agriculture
may possibly succeed without it. The inhabitants know
that by irrigation they can insure the success of their
cultures, and very wisely employ it wherever there is
water, not only by the aid of canals derived from the
streams, but also from wells. San Luis cultivates only
for its requirements ; still agriculture is making progress,
for the soil and climate are favourable,
I would call special attention to the viniculture which
is easy there, and would give good results, if only for
internal consumption.
The inhabitants occupy themselves principally with,
and bestow their greatest care upon their flocks ; if the
plain is dry and wooded in the north and unfit for pas-
toral purposes, those to the south ofi'er an unlimited
field for breeding and rearing cattle; there are also
27
excellent lands for this purpose in the Sierra. On the
other hand, the provinces of Mendoza and San Juan are
essentially agricultural, and breed few black cattle ; they
therefore buy those bred in San Luis, fatten them on
lucerne, and send them in favourable seasons to Chili,
where they realize large profits.
Besides its important commerce in cattle, San Luis
exports some wool, dry hides, goat skins, and ostrich
feathers. Two tanneries in the capital produce a fair
amount of kid and goat skins and imitation morocco.
The productions of agriculture are insufficient for
local consumption, for they are obliged to draw supplies
from Mendoza and San Juan, such as flour, wines, and
dried fruits.
They manufacture a light blue woollen cloth for
pantaloons and ponchos, for the use of the peasantry ;
this industry was peculiar to women, but it is being
rapidly discontinued in consequence of the importation
of a better article from England,
The principal route is the great road to Chili, of which
Rosario and Mendoza form the two extremities in the
Argentine territory. San Luis is situated 80 leagues
from Mendoza, and 160 from Rosario, but these may be
reduced by making more direct roads. It is 90 leagues
from San Juan in passing to the north of the lagoons,
180 to Rioja by Quines and Los Llanos, 90 to Cordoba
by Quines, San Pedro de los Sauces and Nono, and 100
by the Morro and Rio Cuarto : this latter route is
available for carriages, whilst the others can only be
made available by mule. The Sierra is everywhere
accessible by rude paths, but only on mules or horses.
It is, however, absolutely necessary to improve the road
from the capital to Canada Honda, and open another
28
from this point to San Jose del Morro if this rich dis-
trict is to be developed; its approachs are very
difficult, and it occupies much time to reach the mines.
The routes to the south are across a pampa Covered
with long grass, and the only improvement to be made is
to sink wells throughout their course and produce water
for travellers. The routes from the north of the
Province are all accessible to carriages, and there are
some farms where the traveller may rest. The valley
of Concaran has few roads practicable for carriages, but
the country is magnificent.
The Province of San Luis is divided into eight de-
partments, and these are subdivided into districts. The
departments are : — The Capital and its districts to the
south and south-west ; Saladillo and San Jose del Morro,
to the east ; to the north-east, Renca ; Santa Barbara
and La Lomita, to the north ; San Francisco and Nogoli,
to the west. San Luis is situate in 33° 17' of south lat.,
67° 47' west long. (Paris), 766 metres above sea level.
The capital of the province is a little town, founded in
1597 by Don Martin de Loyola, Governor of Chili, and
situate at the south point of the Sierra, called " La Punta,"
or the ancient name "Punta de los Venados " (point of
deer), hence the name of " Puntanos," given to the inha-
bitants of this province. This town is only remarkable for
its very picturesque situation, and having a fine extensive
prospect over the basin, or a semi-circle whose arc may
be 20 leagues, which extends from Lince to the lake
Bebedero and the chain of the Gigante, passing all the
little isolated links scattered on the plain. The peak of
the Punta, which slopes to the town three kilometres
distant, is at an altitude of 1,400 metres, from whose
summit, Avhich is easily accessible, one may obtain a
29
view of the whole province. The town of San Luis is
built on a declivity which, although it appears almost
level, its inclination towards the south-west is certainly
very manifest. Lake Bebedero being situated only eight
leagues distant, the difference of altitude is not less than
400 metres. The stream of Los Chorillos furnishes water
for its plantations of poplars, willows, orange trees, vines,
peach trees, &c.
The capital does not possess any public buildings of
importance. Its only church is very inferior in archi-
tecture^ and only within the past few years have they
commenced building substantial houses. The position
of the town is, however, very advantageous, inasmuch
as it is on the great high road of transit from Chili and
Mendoza, and sooner or later railway communication
between Buenos Ayres and the Andine provinces must
make San Luis a town of much importance.
The Department of San Jose del Morro joins the
province of Cordoba on the east, and extends to the
south of the Sierra del Morro, a promontory 2,000
metres above the sea, and slopes gradually down to the
Rio Quinto on the west, and which latter forms its
boundary towards the pampa. The chain of the Morro
connects the main range of San Luis with that of Cordoba
by the secondary chains of Rosario and the Tiporque,
which, extending towards the west, unites the system of
the Tomalasta, Sololosta, and Intigua. All this northern
part of the department is exclusively pastoral ; in some
valleys of the district of Cuchato the land is cultivated
to some extent. San Jose del Morro, proper, is a
village whose altitude is 1,040 metres; the climate is
vigorous, but the crops sometimes suffer from wind and
frost. The new district of Fort Constitucion, or Mer-
30
cedes, occupies a fertile spot on the western bank of tlie
Rio Quinto. This town was founded in 1856, and has
become nearly as important as the capital itself, owing
to the fertility of the surrounding districts, the abun-
dance of water for irrigation, and consequently rich pas-
tures, together with its timber and pure climate.
Formerly both banks of the Rio Quinto were inhabited
to the Paso del Lechuzo, now Fort 3 de Febrero, 15
leagues down stream to the southward from Mercedes.
There still exists the old fort, the oratory, the large
farm of Las Pulgas, and several others of less impor-
tance, but the repeated attacks of the Indians in former
times drove away the inhabitants who are now fast re-
turning. Fort Constitucion, or Mercedes, is now a
thriving town, and, owing to the excellent measures for
securing the frontier against Indians, will not be again
abandoned. New estancias have been formed, and a
large extent of land placed under cultivation ; even in
case of a serious attack by the Indians the population
can retire into the citadel with walls en pise\ where they
mio'ht effectually resist any attack however formidable.
The savages of the south have made this town the centre
of their commercial and exchange operations with the
Christians, and this traffic is now a source of considerable
profit to the province.
Within the past year President Sarmiento has suc-
4ssfully driven back the formidable tribes of Indians
who formerly overran the country, and gained to the
Republic a vast extent of territory, stretching away to
the lagoons and marshes which mark the extreme
southern limit of the Rio Quinto. New forts have been
established, and military colonies formed, wherein the
soldier may become a proprietor after a certain term of
31
service on the frontier, and secure for his family in his
old age a sufficient competence.
To the energy and skill of Colonel Lucia Mansilla is
due the realization of this important scheme of the
President, and future generations of happy settlers will
remember with gratitude their gallant, kind protector
and benefactor.
MINERAL RESOURCES, &c.
The mining industry in this province may be de-
scribed, so to speak, as being at once in its infancy
and old age. Some gold mines are so irregularly worked
and destroyed that they not only leave no profit upon
the actual working, but are positively dangerous to the
lives of those who are obliged to labour in them. On
the other hand, there are many new veins, not only of
gold, but also of silver, copper, and lead ores, which are
still either in superficial workings or abandoned from the
want of capital and perseverance on the part of their
former owners. There is no special law in the province
respecting mining, and the general dispositions of the
Mexican "Ordenanza" of mines are generally followed;
nor is this industry subject to any duty or fiscal impost
whatever.
The mining districts of San Luis are situate to the
north of the capital, and the most remote are about forty
leagues distant from the latter.
The first mine, nearest the capital, which I found
in work, is that of " Birorca," about nine leagues to the
north, and at an altitude of 3,873 feet above the sea level,
on the eastern slope of the Sierra of San Luis. It was
formerly worked for copper, and abandoned up to the
32
year 18 65, when a German, Mr. David Levingston, opened
it anew, with the view of reducing the ore on the spot.
For this purpose he did in fact construct a small smelt-
ing furnace, and endeavoured to reduce the ore obtained
from the mine. But as this could not be done without the
requisite sulphureous ores to form a regulus, the attempt
did not prove successful. During the brief period
the furnace was at work he burned about 12,800 cubic
yards of wood, and with this enormous quantity of fuel
he only produced 12 bars of metallic copper, the total
weight of which did not exceed 20 cwt.
Convinced of the futility of his attempts to produce
regulus, he endeavoured to obtain sulphureous ores
(copper and iron pyrites), in order to assist his smelt-
ing operations, and he also undertook the construction
of a new furnace, built of refractory materials, a species
of steatite or soap stone, a natural product of the neigh-
bouring mountains.
In this enterprise he is at present engaged, aud ought
shortly to have his new furnace in active operation.
At the same time, he is working an old gold mine
in La Carolina, yielding arsenical iron pyrites, which
to some extent will answer the purpose of sulphureous
ores to form regulus. He is also working a vein of
auriferous copper, recently discovered in the department
of Santa Barbara, about thirty leagues from his furnace.
The ore, a bi-sulphide, which this vein yields on the
surface, holds some 50 per cent, of copper, — with
an ounce and six-tenths of fine gold per ton; but at
further depth this class of metal disappears, and the vein
degenerates into red oxide, with silicate of copper and
iron ; and at a depth of 11 fathoms in the vertical shaft
it again degenerates into an almost pure oxide of iron.
33
holding only 5 J per cent, of copper and three-tenths
of an ounce of gold per ton.
This small proportion of gold is the more remarkable
and strange, from the circumstance that in some pieces
of ore the native gold is found in little specks and thin
lamina ; but on taking a general sample from a large
heap of ore, and assaying it, it becomes manifest that
the gold is not disseminated in the mass, but only exists
as isolated specks in some stones. Besides this dege-
neration in the quality of the ore, the shaft is choked
with carbonic acid gas, which prevents miners from
working in the lower levels ; as this would be fatal to
life, unless ventilation be provided it will be impossible
to follow up the workings.
I pointed out the means of removing this evil, and
perhaps at this date the inconvenience has been over-
come. Other works have been commenced further to
the north on the same vein, in order to effect communi-
cation with the shaft, and so afford the necessary venti-
lation.
Up to the date of my visit to this mine, called " La
Angelita," the ferruginous ore had been carefully
put aside on the supposition that it was copper, the red
oxide of the latter being so very similar to that of iron that
the diiFerence can only be distinguished by the aid of prac-
tical experience or scientific knowledge. I fear that this
vein, which promised so much at the surface, will eventu-
ally become worthless, degenerating into auriferous quartz
holding very little gold. Nor has the " Birorca " mine,
above mentioned, in its actual condition, any com-
mercial value, since the ore which it produced — about
100 tons — yielded only 8 per cent, of copper on the ave-
rage, and consequently Mr. Levingston abandoned it at
my instance and advice.
r
34
Having seen all these drawbacks, I am unable to ex-
press a favourable opinion of this enterprise, although
there is every desirable facility for the cheap smelting
or reduction of the ore, i.e.^ fuel, refractory material,
means of transport, and provisions in abundance ; but,
without the principal sine qua non — the ore itself — no
good or profitable result is possible. Nevertheless,
according to statements made to me by old miners in
that district, there are many veins of copper, prolific
in yield and of good ley in the adjacent Sierra, but which
remain unworked from the want of capital and enter-
prise. I was shown many stones, rich in copper and
silver — the latter semi-bar silver — which I was assured
had been found in the immediate vicinity, but, despite
repeated eff'orts and requests on my part, I could never
succeed in prevailing upon them to take me to see the
veins.
There is extreme apathy among the wealthy inha-
bitants of the province in reference to minmg industry,
and nearly all of them regard it with contempt and in-
credulity.
Mr. Levingston's furnace is situated about two
leagues to the east of the " Birorca" mine, in the centre
of a populated district, possessing j^lenty of wood, prin-
cipally algaroba and a resinous species of lignum vitae
(retamo), which is strong and burns well. A con-
siderable stream of water passes near the furnace, irri-
gating the lands and enclosed farms, the chief of these
being El Trapiche, formerly the site of an establishment
for the amalgamation of gold ores from La Carolina.
This site is now occupied by a mill, which serves to
grind the cereals of the neighbouring people, who pro-
duce grain regularly and in abundance, as the whole of
the slope of the Sierra, from San Luis up to La Carolina,
35
a distance of twenty leagues, is well populated and fairly
cultivated. The farmers utilize the numerous rivulets
and streams which descend by the ravines to irrigate
the lands under wheat, maize, potatoes, &c. Much land
still remains, which might be cultivated with beneficial
results, but the scarcity of labour, as also no doubt
of capital, is the principal cause of its non-culti-
vation.
The Rio Quinto — here called the Rio Grande — passes
at a short distance from El Trapiche, following its course
between high banks towards the south-east, and is a
somewhat wide and rapid stream. It has its source at
La Carolina, and its sandy bed exhibits for many leagues
further down striking indications of gold.
The road up to the smelting works of Levingston is
suitable for carriage traffic, but, beyond that point,
towards the mines of La Carolina, many deviations would
be necessary, following the course of the valleys, and it
would entail an outlay of £3,000 to £4,000 to render it
properly transitable. Still, carts, laden with machinery,
as I have been assured, have recently passed even as
far as La Carolina itself.
The men employed in the mine of Birorca, at the
time of my visit, were four in number. The capital
invested in it, I was told, was from £1,300 to
£1,600.
The following workmen were employed at the smelt-
ing furnace : A manager, a book-keeper, two foreman
smelters, a blacksmith, a carpenter, and six labourers.
In addition, there were 23 muleteers, with 120 mules, 47
wood-cutters, and two carters. The daily consumption
of fuel in working the furnace was 96 cubic yards, the
cost of which is about |d per cubic yard. Mr. Leving-
^
36
ston, up to that time, had invested between furnaces
and mines about £5,000, but I was not able to obtain
exact information on this head.
The construction of the furnace is expensive in con-
sequence of the mode of preparing the refractor}^
material, the want of economy in this department being
most striking. The first reveberatory furnace built
there was constructed of English bricks, but now he is
using soap-stone, which is obtained, as I have already
stated, from the Sierra of San Luis, at a place called
Pancanta, eight leagues to the west-north-west. Two
men quarry eighty mule loads per month. Each load
consists of two masses of stone, from each of which
about 25 ordinary sized bricks are cut, and the cost of
freight is about 3s. 4d. per load. Immediately they
reach the furnace, they are cut with hand-saws, forming
bricks of nine inches by four and a half by two and a
half, and each man can cut ten per day. In this
way labour is wasted, and much time and money would
be economised if the stones were cut and faced in large
pieces at the quarry and, used thus in the construction
of the furnace, would serve the same object, and avoid
the expense of sawing, which is important, while com-
pleting the work in half the time.
I will now pass on to describe the districts of La
Carolina, celebrated and renowned for ages for their
great auriferous wealth.
LA CANADA HONDA.
FoUowmo- almost the same route northward from the
o
capital, and passing through El Trapiche and Le\ing-
ston's works, the Sierra is penetrated by tortuous
roads, ascending and descending numerous ridges, and
37
frequently crossing streams of limpid water, and reachmg
Canada Honda, distant about lOJ leagues from the fur-
nace and 20 from the city of San Luis. Here, at the
height of 4,126 feet above the sea level, the first gold
placer washings are to be found. The temperature is
cold in winter, but agreeable and healthy in the summer.
The Canada (a valley) runs north-west to south-east.
It is over a league in length, by 175 yards in average
breadth, and 'enclosed on three sides by lofty mountains,
opening towards the south-east, whence issue the waters
of a stream which rises at the north-western extremity.
At the entrance of the Caiiada are situated the placer
washings of Don Pepe Gonzalez Otero, an active Chilian
miner, recently established there, and working in associa-
tion with Don Antonio del Canto, the owner of copper
smelting works in Chin, and in theParamillo of Mendoza.
Formerly the placer miners of Canada Honda were
unable to work at any great depth, from the invasion of
water, which sprung very copiously precisely at the
part most productive in gold, — a depth of eight to ten
yards. In consequence of this obstacle, the previous
workers had been forced to abandon their labours at the
very moment the fruits of their toil appeared within their
eager reach ; but one of them, Don Mauricio Morales, a
Chilian, who had resided there for sixteen years, suc-
ceeded at length in partially overcoming the difficulty.
He sought a lower level at the foot of the Caiiada, and
from that point excavated a canal, pushing his way
through the rocks until he effected communication with
the auriferous deposits situated higher up. He covered
over this canal with flags, leaving a conduit beneath, by
means of which the workings in the auriferous beds above
are to a great extent drained of their water.
38
This canal has always to be carried forward to the
foot of the placer washings, which are thus kept work-
able ; but I am afraid that rocks will be met with
higher up the Canada, whose removal, m order to let the
water pass, may entail considerable labour and expense.
During my visit two placer washings were bemg
carried on ; one by Gonzalez Otero, and the other by
Morales. The system of extractmg gold is extremely
simple. It consists of " Long Toms" with riffles, fifty
feet in length, fifteen inches wide, and eight inches in
depth. The " Long Toms " are fixed at an angle of
ten degrees, and the current is therefore strong and
rapid. The modus operandi is as folloAvs : —
The auriferous bed lies at 24 to 30 feet from the
surface, and the superincumbent strata are : —
1. Alluvium, about 4 feet in thickness, but varying to
6 and 8 feet ;
2. Beds of yellow marl, mixed with alluvium, from
8 to 12 feet;
3. A bed of black sandy clay, 4 to 5 feet;
4. Yellow auriferous sand, with particles of the
primary rocks, which form the surrounding mountains,
3 feet;
5. The primary rocks, consisting of mica-schist, gneiss,
and granite, with felspar and talc.
A stream of clear water runs on the surface, and is
utilised for two purposes. First, it is led by small
channels in different directions, and made to pass over
terraces, each lower than the other. About a yard in
depth of this upper stratum is loosened and broken down
by labourers into the water, by which it is carried away,
and this is continued until the overlaymg strata are got
rid of and the auriferous deposit eventually reached.
39
A single labourer can, in the course of a day, remove
about 320 cubic yards, and he is paid at the rate of £2
10s. ])er month, without maintenance. Secondly, when
water is abundant, another canal carries it to the " Long
Tom " or sluice, placed as above described, and sus-
pended in the air at the height of about ten feet above
the auriferous bed. Two men with long-handled shovels
are stationed below, and heave the yellow earth into
the sluice above their heads, where it is carried over the
riffles by the water with considerable force. All the
gold (I was told) is caught by the riffles, from its great
weight, while the earth and sand are discharged at the
foot of the sluice and removed to one side with shovels
by two men employed for that purpose. As the
auriferous earth consists of stones of various sizes, with
fine sand, &c., a strong current of water is needed to
carry it through the sluice, but part of the gold is
doubtless also carried away, as fine particles are seldom
found in the riffles, this consisting of small nuggets and
grains.
Two men, so engaged, can pass twenty-five tons
of auriferous sand through the sluice in a day, and on
the average extract four ounces of gold. From the
approximate calculations I was enabled to make durmg
the brief period of my stay, I do not think that the ley
or yield generally exceeds four dwts. of fine gold per
ton ; but there are parts extremely rich, from which two
men have extracted as much as a pound of gold in one
day.
Seiior Morales informed me that, during the six years
he had worked there, on a very restricted scale from
want of capital, he had extracted about 1,600 ounces
of gold at a cost of about £2,166 sterling.
40
Taking the extension of the Canada yet unworked
at 8,700 yards in length, with an average breadth of
25 yards in the part where the gold is found; and the
auriferous bed at a yard in average thickness, we have
217,500 cubic yards, which, calculating from its specific
gravity (about 30 cwt. per cubic yard) would yield a
total of 326,250 tons, and this, at four dwts. per ton,
is equivalent to 50,976 ounces. On account of its low
percentage of fine gold (0.720 milesimos), this can only
be estimated at £2 14s. 2d. per ounce, and would,
therefore, produce a total value of about £138,000.
The workmen employed in the Canada Honda, in
these placer washings, were 12 by Gonzalez Otero, and
five by Morales; but there were about 28 more who
are occasionally occupied.
Beef costs about |d. per lb. ; flour, 20s. per cwt. ;
maize, 10s. per fanega (300 lbs.); potatoes, |d. per
pound. There is absolutely no fire wood, and it has to
be brought from El Trapiche, ten and a half leagues
distant, or from San Francisco, on the western slope of
the Sierra Alta, nine leagues off ; it costs Is. 8d. per
cubic yard. The water of the stream is insignificant in
the winter, and is sometimes frozen up ; in the summer
it is more abundant from copious rains, and large
reservoirs might be formed with facility, to be utilized
for placer washing at seasons when the ordinary supply
would be insufficient. There is good pasturage in the
neighbourhood, and potatoes, maize, &c., are also pro-
duced on the spot, but in small quantities.
In the mountains which enclose the Cafiada Honda
there are numerous auriferous quartz vems, superficially
scratched by the old miners, but none of them are being
worked, with the exception' of one which Seiior Gonzalez
41
Otero was exploring with indifferent results. The water
invades the workings at a short depth, and the ores
being in some cases pyriteous (arsenical iron pyrites)
the gold cannot be fully nor easily extracted. These
lodes were rich on the surface, according to tradition,
and there is reason to believe that such was the fact, for
the auriferous deposits in the Canada below can have
had no other source.
LA CAROLINA.
From the placer washings of Canada Honda the road
takes a westerly direction, passing through the chain of
hills which divide La Carolina from the Canada, at a
height of 4,903 feet above the sea level. At a distance
of about a league is an edge-runner or Chilian mill,
recently erected by Messrs. Antonio Schmidt & Co. It
is fairly constructed and arranged m conformity with
the requirements of the spot. About a ton and a quarter
of ore is ground in twenty-four hours, after which it is
passed through a sieve with 2,500 holes to the square
inch. This is not fine enough, however, to separate all the
gold, which in the ore is united with iron pyrites. The
ground ore is carried through the sieve by a current of
water mto a sluice, with riffles at the bottom, similar in
construction to the " Long Tom " used by the placer
washers. This is about fifty feet in length, and the
tailings are discharged into a vat, whence they are re-
moved at convenient intervals.
At the end of every week (according to the ley of the
ore) the riffles are removed from the sluice, and nearly
all the gold present is found in the first four yards from
the mill. The gold is always more or less mixed with
iron pyrites, and this mass is thrown back into the trough
42
or base of the mill, with mercury to extract the gold by
amalgamation. In a few hours the gold unites with the
mercury, in which state it is taken out and carefully
washed in wooden dishes. It is subsequently strained
through strong canvas cloths, and afterwards distilled in
an iron retort ; the mercuiy passes off and is condensed
in cold water, whilst the remaining gold i generally foimd
of the ley of .835 milesimos, or 20.04 carats of fine
gold.
The ores which were being reduced at the time of my
visit were extracted from the principal lode of La Caro-
lina, called " Piniera," which was not then in " bene-
ficio," or productive ore. Nevertheless the veinstuff ob-
tained from the greater part of the lode, though in this
condition, yields 1*66 of an ounce per ton, of which nearly
half an ounce is left in the tailings thrown out from the
sluice. The gold, being combined with iron pyrites,
and very finely disseminated throughout the mass, the
whole cannot be extracted by the system at present in
practice there. In order to successfully reduce this ore,
the grinding should be carried to the highest possible
perfection, and so as to pass through a sieve of at least
8,000 to 10,000 holes to the square inch; whereas, as
already stated, it is not reduced by the actual mode of
o-rindine: to a greater fineness than that of 2,500 holes.
All these ores also hold an appreciable quantity of
silver, varying from 14'8 to 37 ounces per ton.
At a distance of about a league north of the reducing
works are many old abandoned mines, situated on the prin-
cipal vein of La Carohna, which rmis from north to south,
and is traceable for a distance of nearly half a league, having
an average width of about a yard. This lode is very
irregularly worked on the surface, and probably to its
43
lowest depths ; but these workings being choked up with
debris^ I was unable to enter or examine them. The
deej^est shaft on the vein is about 55 fathoms and
is also choked up with earth. The workings rehabilitated
by Messrs. Schmidt & Co. consisted of an adit, driven
so as to cut the lode at a right angle at a good depth,
and at the same time to drain the old workings, which
were found in every case to be inundated. This was
accomplished, and the lode was cut, in an unpro-
ductive state, a yard in width, but yielding only the
percentage of gold previously stated. I was assured by
the owners that the yield of gold from the pyriteous ores
was from 5 to 7 ounces per ton; but not having seen
this class of orestufF, nor the vein in "beneficio," I
cannot personally confirm this assertion.
North of the adit of Messrs. Schmidt & Co. is an old
and very important mine, which formerly belonged to a
Sefior Piniero. A well driven adit, on the level of the
bottom of the ravine at the foot of the mountain, was
commenced, and is about 120 yards in length. The
vein, in my opinion, should be cut at about 40 yards
further on, and at a depth of 50 fathoms from the surface.
The roof of this adit has partly fallen in, and was aban-
doned in consequence of the death of the owner many
years ago at Buenos Ayres. I believe that this enter-
prise, if carried on, would yield good results. The mine
in the first place would have to be drained, when a rich
portion of the lode would in all probability be laid bare
under certain parts, which on the surface present the
appearance of having been formerly very productive.
This, however, would entail the expenditure of a large
sum, owing to the scarcity of labour and fuel, and other
drawbacks inherent to the district.
44
This mine is at an elevation of 4,243 feet above the
level of the sea.
At present the only mme in actual work on the vein
of Piniero is that of Messrs. Schmidt & Co., and in it
only ten men were employed. The capital invested in
this enterprise by these people only amounted to about
£800.
Towards the north-east from the village of La Caro-
lina is another mine, on a different lode, running from
east to west, and which is about three-quarters of a yard
in width. The veinstuff consists of arsenical iron
pyrites, mixed with galena and blende. This mine,
called " Mercedes," belongs to Mr. Levingston, and is
that to which I have previously referred as being
worked for sulphureous flux for his smelting operations.
The vein is irregularly and badly worked. At present
the ores are raised by means of a vertical shaft, about
ten fathoms deep, in water, and exceedingly dangerous
from the unsafe state of its walls. There were about
18 tons of ore on surface dressed, of an average ley for
gold of flve-sixths of an ounce per ton. Six men were
employed in this mine, and the capital invested is in-
cluded in the total of £5,000 expended by Mr. Levings-
ton, as noted in a preceding page.
In addition to these fixed works on the veins, three
men and about twenty women are engaged in erratic
and superficial operations in various parts of the Cerro
of La Carolina. These also make a living by washing
the sand and earth in the ravine, and on the margin of
the stream, from which they extract a fair quantity of
gold. In the little village of La Carolina there are 17
houses, with 50 inhabitants, who, properly speaking,
constitute the whole population. At Cerro Blanco,
45
two leagues to the east, are a few small huts and about
20 inhabitants, occupied in washing operations, but here
with indifferent success.
The gold produce of La Carolina, including that of
Canada Honda, from fixed and erratic operations, is
about 160 ounces per month, the value of which may be
calculated at about £500.
The fi-eoloo^ical formation of the district about La
Carolina principally consists of mica-schist, with gneiss,
syenite, talcose and felspathic rocks, and consequently
most favourable for auriferous deposits.
In Santa Barbara, a district further to the north-east,
are several veins of copper and galena, not now worked,
but which might be of importance if properly explored.
On the western slope of the Sierra of San Luis, at San
Francisco, there are some abandoned works on a
copper vein, which, having been exhausted some years
ago, was abandoned, and is now commercially
worthless.
The roads in this province, whether between the
capital and the mines, or from one mine to the other,
are simply mule tracks. The only exception is a short
cart road made by Sefior Levingston between his fur-
nace and the Birorca mine, a distance of about two and
a-half leagues. The general lie of country on the
plains is very suitable for the construction of cheap
roads, but amongst the mountains, and to reach La
Carolina and Santa Barbara, from San Luis or El
Morro, it would require an expenditure of £5,000 to
£6,000 to make a fairly transitable carriage road.
From a commercial point of view, 1 think the best
route for such a road would be between San Jose del
Morro and Canada Honda, with a branch from the
46
Cerro del Rosario towards the north-east to reach Santa
Barbara. It would thus place the mining dis-
tricts in more immediate contact with the great centres
of business, with the projected railway to Rio Cuarto,
and, finally, with the Capital of the Republic itself. By
this route the necessity of making bridges across the
Rio Quinto and several other considerable streams
would also be avoided. The distance from El Morro to
the Canada Honda is not more than twenty-four leagues.
The census taken in the Republic during the past year,
1869, gives the population of the Province of San Luis
as follows: City, 3,893 ; country, 49,375.; total, 53,268,
of which foreigners form a very small proportion.
47
PROVINCE OF MENDOZA.
GENERAL PHYSICAL ASPECT, DESCRIPTION OF SOIL,
CLIMATE, &c.;
The Province of Mendoza is situated to the south of
that of San Juan, and between the territory of San Luis
and the Andes, of which the main range separates
it from Chili. It extends between 32° 20' and 36° south
lat., and 68° 30' and 72° west long. (Paris), embracing
an area of nearly 6,000 square leagues. Its limits to
the west are the main chain of the Andes, dividing the
Argentine Republic with Chili ; to the north some little
cordons crossing the Andes at Yalguaras and the lagoons
of Guanacache on the plains ; to the east, the Rio
Desaguadero and Rio Salado, the continuation of the
Latuel or Chadi Leubu ; to the south, its inhabited limits
do not extend beyond the Rio Diamante, but have been
pushed to the other side of the Latuel, and even as far as
Cerro de Payen. The Indians of Aucas and Pehuenches,
who inhabit these cantons, have hitherto prevented the
Mendocinos from settlino; there, and the southern frontier
limit is yet the Fort of San Rafael, near Diamante, be-
tween 35° and 36° lat., although it is nommally at Rio
Grande, or the " Colorado."
48
The Province of Mendoza is to the north and to the
eastward a vast plain sablo-argileuse, saline, and in
many places, similar to San Juan, covered with a stunted
vegetation. Nothing can be more arid than that part
between the Rivers Tunuyan and Desaguadero, but
irrigation produces a fair vegetation, not, however, so
strong as towards the base of the Andes. To the south
of the Tunuyan the country is equally arid up to the
36°, but on approaching the Andes the climate changes;
it becomes more moist, rains refresh the earth durino-
summer, numerous streams begin to flow, and their
waters fertilise the soil to a wonderful extent, producing
grass and trees, but these latter of a stunted growth.
The first valleys of the Andes present a variety of soil ;
some widely open towards the east partake of the parched
character of the plains; others higher, narrower, and
from the mists, rains, and snows, possess fine pastures.
The boundary line with Chili is formed by a series of
gigantic snow-capped mountains, from Aconcagua (23,400
feet) in the north, to Chinal in the south, including
the enormous Tupungato and numerous volcanoes, some
active, some extmct. In the extreme south the spurs, or
minor ranges of the central chain, are detached towards the
south-east in cordons less elevated, enclosing great valleys
mhabited by the Auracanian Indians, who communicate
freely with those on this side by numerous passes
practicable during part of the year.
The absolute necessity of water for irrigation and
agricultural purposes gives to the rivers of Mendoza a
peculiar importance, for, without being numerous, they
are plentifully supplied with water during the greater
part of the year, which, if well directed, would enlarge
to a great extent the agricultural districts, especially
49
towards the south. In the physical description of the
Province of San Juan, it is shown how the lagoons of
Guanacache are formed by the rivers of wSan Juan and of
Mendoza, which flow into the lao-oon of the Rosario in
opposite directions. These waters then stand in a series
of pools, whose level rises or falls according to the
quantity of snow which melts in the Cordillera. These
lagoons are designated respectively Portezuelo, Sauce,
Rosario, Tres Cruces, Bebida Grande, Silverio, &c., and
communicate with the adjacent ones by a sort of gorge
through argillaceous earth sufficiently firm to permit of
passing by a ford except in heavy floods. Their borders
are flat, covered with reeds and aquatic plants, and easily
overflow; hence most of the lands around them are
excellent for agriculture, because of their humidity.
The waters are very salt in the dry season, but much less
so during the floods of the San Juan and Mendoza rivers.
At a little distance from the lagoons, the wells sunk to
five or six metres yield sweet water. A careful survey
of these lagoons would perhaps suggest the possibility
of making a navigable canal. Their water is discharged
by the Rio Desaguadero, which is lost partly in the Lake
Bebedero and partly in the marshes to the south of the
former.
The Rio de Mendoza flows out of the chain of the Pa-
ramillo, diverges towards the north by the point of the
little Sierra de Lulunta, and runs into the laofoon
Rosario, which receives also the Rio de San Juan; in
this manner the two rivers, the one rising at the base
of Tupungato, and the other at the foot of Aconcagua,
describe a vast curve, the one to the north, the other
to the south, and eventually mingle their waters in the
same reservoir. It furnishes water for large tracts of
G
50
land irrigated in the capital and surrounding country,
the declivity of the earth permitting the infiltrations to
accumulate in a great swamp, called " Vermejo,"
whence arises, as in other provinces, a natural canal —
the Tunumaya — which discharges opposite the Cochagual
into the lagoon of Portezuelo. It is probable that art
could make these channels navigable, and thus unite
the two towns of San Juan and Mendoza by an unin-
terrupted water communication, but I question very
much its commercial results. The canalisation of the la-
goons, and that of the Desaguadero up to the lake which
receives it, may be yet possible, and then the three
provinces of Cuyo would be united by an interior navi-
gation of 150 leagues. There would be some difiiculties
in that part which separates the lakes Bebedero and
Curra-Lauquen (already combined by the continuation
of the Desaguadero, and enlarged by the Diamante and
the Latuel); but whence to the Colorado there is a
level plain, sometimes inundated, and from thence by
canal communication with the Rio Negro, in the south,
navigable at all times.
Certainly, in the present state of affairs, I should
not propose so great a work, which, perhaps, could not
be attempted unless the population of the provinces
of Cuyo was increased tenfold, but at present rest
satisfied with indicating its possibility in order that its
future result may be anticipated, if adopted, by public
opinion, and that the particular canalisation, necessitated
b}^ irrigation, may be managed in such a manner as not
to divert too much the natural course of the waters.
The rivers to the south of the Diamante are com-
paratively unknown, for the inhabited region of Mendoza
ceases at this river ; nearly all beyond is occupied by
51
the Indians Pehuenches and Aucas, who do not care
to give up their lands, or if they yield them by treaties,
and for some stuffs or for liquors, incessantly violate
their bargains. This part of the country is perfectly
watered by the Latuel and its tributaries, the Chacay
and Malargue, whose waters form the lagoons of Chacay
and Yancanelo ; further south the numerous affluents of
the Colorado fertilise some beautiful valleys. The great
future of the province of Mendoza may be said to rest
here, whenever these lands can be secured from the
Indians and are in the possession of its inhabitants.
The great course of waters caused by the overflow
of Tunuyan and of the Bebedero, and the waters of the
Diamante, goes from north to south, crossing a flat coun-
try, which a short distance from the river is a "trave-
sia," or desert, called Desaguadero and Nuevo-Salado.
The Latuel, under the name of Chadi-Leubu, is again
united one degree of latitude above the lake La
Amarga or Curra-Lauquen ; the lagoon Fureco is con-
nected with it. In the month of December all these
are, in part, inundated, when the melted snow has been
considerable in the Andes, and the rains abundant in
the lower valleys; for starting from 36° of latitude, and
going towards the south, the climate is modified and
rains commence in the mountains. The neighbouring
regions in the vicinity of the lake Nahuelhuapi, which
crosses the Rio Negro, is humid and well watered.
The Andes and their various chains occupy all the
western part of the Province of Mendoza. On the
other side of the Rio Diamante the lower ranges are
detached from the central chain towards the south-east
and some isolated cones rise here and there on the
Pampa. Immediately to the west of the town of Men-
52
doza extends the cliain of the Paramillo, which com-
mences at the river of this name, and is lost in the
Province of San Juan in mingling with the western
buttresses of the Tontal. Behind the Paramillo,
of which the height is 3,000 metres, extends the long
and broad valley of Uspallata, of a mean altitude of
1,800 metres; then comes the first buttress of the
great Cordillera, upon which are the snowy summits
of Igiesia, Plata, Juncal, San Francisco, the Cruz de
Piedra, San Lorenzo, Los Mineros, del Planchon,
&c., the volcanoes San Jose, of Maipii, of Tinguiririca ;
finally, in the midst of these giants, not quite so ele-
vated as the Aconcagua, stands their king, the snowy
cone of the Tupungato, whose immaculate pyramid
of snow appears from the plains of Mendoza to stand
erect in the azure of the heavens. It is visible for a
distance of 150 miles in clear weather.
The valley, or rather the gorge of the Rio de Men-
doza, winds from east to west across the densest part of
the central chain on to the south reverse of the Aconcagua,
whence rises the Rio de las Yacas, opposite to which,
at the Punta, a torrent discharges from the Tupungato.
High valleys extend between the furrows of the moun-
tains which constitute the centre of this prodigious mass.
In fact, in starting from Paso de los Patos, it does not pre-
sent the appearance of high plateaux, but only of cordons,
running from north to south, with a slight inclination to
the east. To the south of the Rio de Mendoza, some of
these cordons, especially that of Lulunta, stretch away
into the great plains. In a region yet more southerly,
other ranges, detached from the Cordillera, form the
chain of Cerros Nevado and Payen. Still farther are
the mountains giving birth to the sources of the Colo-
53
rcido, of Neiiquen, of Catapuliche, and other afSuents of
the Rio Negro. The Sierra of Ranca Mahuida, adjacent
to the Rio Colorado, between 37° and 38° lat., is a spur
of the latter.
Little is known of the mountains comprised in the
Indian territory. The Nevado appears to have an alti-
tude of 4,500 metres, and forms a mass nearly isolated
in the plain on the other side of the lagoons of Yancanelo.
It is thought to be volcanic, from the nature of the lavas
accumulated on its sides, from the smoke which often
crowns it, and the detonations which are sometimes
heard, and which resound as far as the Fort of San
Rafael.
The chain of Payen, visited by miners at various times,
is connected with the Nevado by a series of hills which
enclose some beautiful valleys, at the openings of which
towards the west commences the pampas, where flows
the Chadi-Leubu, formed from the Latuel and the Desa-
guadero. It separates the waters of the Rio Malargue
from those of the Rio Grande, the principal branch of
the Colorado, and the frontier line of the province,
nearly under 37° lat. Payen is much less elevated than
the Nevado ; its sides are well watered, with many parts
sufficiently fertile to produce food for those miners who
may one day explore its mineral wealth.
With respect to the Andes, there exist a great
number of defiles, which are passable in the favourable
seasons (generally from November to May) ; such as those
of La Cumbre, Deheza, Portillo, Cruz de Piedra, Peteroa
Saso, Planchon, CerroFlorido, &c. The latter are especially
frequented by the Indians, and are not very elevated.
The plain of Mendoza is very uniform. Its surface is
nearly quite level, the only undulations are "medanos,"
54
or sand banks (argillaceous), extremely light, and which
are drifted by the wind in all directions ; some saline
plants, and some thorny shrubs grow there. In many
places the soil is charged with salt and sulphate of soda,
which give to the waters of the Desaguadero, the Salado,
the lagoons of Guanacache, Yancanelo, Fureco, and the
Amarga, their brackish and unpalatable flavour. The
greater part of this land, as also that of the interior
Argentine plain, has been evidently covered by the sea,
which has disappeared by the gradual elevation of the
continent, or by a slow evaporation.
A number of marine fossils have been found in the
south on this plain and on the slopes of the Andes.
The salt districts are limited to a line traced by the Desa-
guadero, Alto Pencoso, Bebedero, its banados, and the
shallows which continue from the southern point of the
lake to that of the Amarga or Curra-Lauquen.
Under this argilo-sableux soil, resembling ashes, in a
number of places on nearing the mountains, is found an
undefined stratum of boulders, rolled evidently from the
Andes, but which centuries have covered with a thick
deposit of earth. This soil is prodigiously fertile when
irrigated, and the excess of saline matter becomes washed
out by the constant stream of running water passing
over its surface.
The ranges of the Andes are composed of all forma-
tions. The principal chain is of black porphyry, but
its buttresses are of sand stone, granite, limestone,
and quartz. The chain of the Paramillo, which is im-
mediately behind Mendoza, contains marble of various
colours, which is found as far as the pass of Planchon,
gypsum, oolite, jaspar, rock crystal, and bituminous
shales, &c. The natural pastures in the mountains are
excellent for cattle.
55
The climate of Mendoza may be divided into two
regions, that to the north of the 35^, and that to the
south.
The region of the north has the same climate as the
province of San Juan, i.e., it scarcely ever rains ; some-
times a storm breaks over it in the summer months, but
this phenomenon is rare. To the south of 35°, on the
contrary, the rains commence in the spring and autumn,
and often even in the summer; as we approach the
Cordillera the rains are more frequent. This explains
the source of the numerous streams which descend from
the Andes, and the lovely vegetation found in this
region.
The town of Mendoza and its environs have a mean
temperature of 59*^ Fahr., if we judge of it by its vege-
tation and altitude, which approaches 800 metres. It
freezes a little in winter ; the summer is extremely hot,
the more so as there is little wind, and the storms are
confined to the Cordillera.
The whiter is very dry ; the evajDoration is less in this
season, consequently water abounds in the Cienega
de Vermejo, which extends to the faubourgs of the
Capital. The floods or freshets m the rivers coming
from the Andes take place only in the summer, towards
the end of November, at which time the snows melt
rapidly. Two months later the lagoons of Guanacache
overflow m their turn, discharging their surplus waters
by the Desaguadero. The floods cease in April and May.
The vegetation of Mendoza resembles that of San Juan,
but the orano;e and date do not mature so well. All the
fruit trees of temperate Europe grow and fructify per-
fectly.
The natural vegetation, as far as Rio Latuel, is confined
56
to stunted brushwood and herbage, often saline, of the
i3lain of the ulterior, — such as retamo, chaiiar, the jarilla,
jume, algarrobo, rabougri, &c. To the north of this
(Latuel), and in the humid valleys of the Andes, the
plants become more vigorous, and several of the arbo-
rescent species of Chili are seen.
The province is almost devoid of wood for construction,
the trees just named being only suitable for fuel, but are
sometimes used in the construction of their simple
cottages (ranchos).
The poplar, introduced in 1810 by a Spaniard, Don
Juan Cobos, still holds its place as the best timber in the
province, and though of poor quality, has rendered im-
mense service to the country. It grows with extraor-
dinary rapidity, so that trees of forty years reach an
enormous size. The elm grows equally well, but its
cultivation has only just commenced. The walnut tree
has been introduced from the Chilian Provinces, but is
cultivated only for its fruit ; it could be, however, pro-
pagated with advantage for timber.
The cultivation of cereals occupies the most important
place in the products of the province, and nearly on a
par with it is lucerne for fattening cattle for the Chilian
market. Wheat yields an average of thirty-five to one.
The judicious distribution of water would make the pro-
duction of lucerne inexhaustible. Maize is cultivated in
large quantities. All the vegetables commonly grown
in Europe are cultivated with success, as also the fruit
trees ; but at present the inhabitants are more anxious
for quantity and there is ample room for improvement
in quality. The vine yields considerably, and lately the
manufacture of wme is not only greatly extended, but
much improved. The rearing of the mulberry tree is
57
neglected; it was introduced in 1835 by a Spaniard,
Don Juan Godoy, and promised good results, but was
abandoned in consequence of an epidemic amongst the
insects. The total lands under cultivation in 1860 was
estimated at 150,000 acres, but the most recent statistics
from reliable sources give the present extent of land
under cultivation and irrigation at from 400,000 to
480,000 acres. This includes about 10,000 acres of vine-
yards, where more than 40 distinct classes of grapes are
cultivated. These produce, on an average, about 2,400
bottles, or four Spanish pipes of wine per acre. The
greater part of this wine consists of what is termed
there "Carlon," or red wine, resembling very strong
claret or Burgundy, and sells on the spot for 3d. per
bottle, or by wholesale at Is. per gallon. White wine,
or a species of Sauterne, forms about a third part of the
annual crop, but is not much consumed as a beverage,
being utilized for the manufacture of brandy, or aguar-
diente; this latter is sold on the spot for Is. per bottle,
but by wholesale at about 3s. 6d. per gallon.
Thus, of wine alone we have, according to the fore-
going statistics, a total annual produce of 24 millions of
bottles, or 40,000 Spanish pipes, — and this, at 3d. per
bottle, would yield a total value of £300,000. Now,
when we consider that this might be increased to a
very large extent, and the quality materially improved
by a careful manipulation in its production and subsequent
treatment, and, with the advantages of a cheap and ex-
peditious mode of transport, we must confess that the
Province of Mendoza possesses within itself the materials
for a vast industry and commercial prosperity.
The actual production of wheat is very large, and at
least from 12,000 to 16,000 acres are sown every year,
58
yielding, on an average, 33 cwts. of first class flour per
acre, or a total of 24,000 tons.
To manufacture this into flour there are 10 first-class
mills in the province, worked by water power, capable of
grinding from 5 to 10 tons of flour daily ; and, in addition,
there are from 40 to 50 smaller mills distributed through-
out the province.
Wheat, in harvest time, costs generally from 4s. to
5s., and first flour from 8s. to 12s. the cwt. in sacks.
The great cost of transport to the lower provinces pre-
cludes the possibility of exportation on any considerable
scale. The cost of tilling, sowing, reaping, and thrashing
an acre of Avheat m Mendoza averages about £1 5s., and
the produce, as already shown, is worth about £12 to
£16.
It is calculated (without any fixed certainty) that
about 20 per cent, of the cultivated land is sown under
wheat, indian-corn, potatoes, and green crops generally,
and the remainder (exclusive of vineyards) under lucerne
I or alfalfa.
/ All the fields and farms at Mendoza are secured
either by mud walls or live fences, the latter consisting
of closely planted rows of poplar trees, acacias, willow,
tamarind, and others, but the poplar is most abundant,
and is the only timber for construction and carpentery
in the province.
The value of enclosed and cultivated land may be set
down at nominally £6 per acre, freehold ; I say nomi-
nally, because it is most difficult to find a purchaser, or
realise it, owing to the great distance from the coast,
or great centres of commerce, and the cost of transport
on produce.
The production of honey has of late years assumed
59
vast dimensions. Only ten years ago one hive was intro-
duced by a foreigner, and I am credibly informed that
the number now existing in the province passes 20,000.
Their procreation is very rapid and successful, and the
quantity of wax produced is very large. The honey is
mostly converted into a fine rich flavoured spirit, and
thus either consumed or exported. There are some 400
hives in one garden alone, the property of an industrious,
thriving Frenchman, Don Miguel Pouget, who has intro-
duced and cultivated, with great success, many new
fruit trees and plants. His wines are the best in the
province, but unfortunately, the extent of his vineyard is
small. Some white wine produced by him was exhibited at
Paris, in 1867, and obtained the silver medal. The few
bottles left were purchased by Baron Kothschild at 25
francs each.
The most important feature in Mendoza, and its most
productive industry, is that of fattening up cattle in the
luxuriant clover fields, and driving them over the Andes
to supply the Chilian market, almost wholly dependent
upon the Argentme Republic for its supply of meat.
An ox or bullock, purchased in San Luis or Cordoba,
and fattened up in Mendoza, will cost on an average,
when ready for market, from £3 5s. to £3 15s., and in
this state (yielduig about 2 J cwts. of fat) sell in Chili for
from £7 to £7 10s. The number exported to Chili from
October, 1868, to May, 1869, passed 60,000 head of all
classes, oxen, bullocks, and cows ; and I am informed
that the present year's exports will far exceed these
figures.
The Province of Mendoza, like that of San Juan, in
consequence of the position of its rivers and the absolute
necessity for irrigation, has its population congregated
60
only in select districts. The town and its environs,
within a radius of four leagues in one direction and six in
another, concentrates more than half the inhabitants. It
has, therefore, two departments, viz., the town and its de-
pendencies on the one part, and the country, more distant,
on the other. Exception must be made for San Vicente
and Lujan, which are a sort of continuation of the town.
Before 1854 the province was divided into five parishes —
the Capital, San Vicente, Lujan, the valley of Uco,
San Martin, and the lagoons. The actual administrative
division comprises 12 departments, viz., the Capital and
its four sections or country departments, San Vicente,
Lujan, San Martin, the lagoons. La Paz, San Carlos,
and San Rafael.
The town of Mendoza and capital of the province, was
destroyed by an earthquake in 1861. Its destruction
was so complete that the Government hesitated to re-
establish its old site, but wished to transfer it to Las
Tortugas, situated three leagues south-east from its
actual centre. However, the inhabitants refused to
abandon the ruins of their city ; they were the owners of
the soil, and besides, the bricks, timber, and debris of all
sorts, would aid them to rebuild it ; and, what was of great
importance, the old canals were made, and with them
they enjoyed their rights to the water for iiTigation.
They followed instinctively the example of many towns,
both in the old and new hemispheres, who have always
rebuilt from the ruins, and besides a new place might
also be subject to a similar calamity. Mendoza, then,
is established almost on its old site, but the streets are
broader and the houses lighter, being constructed prin
cipally of wooden frame-work, filled in with adobes^ or
sun-dried bricks* The proceeds of the subscriptions
61
collected in America and in Europe were first applied to
relieve the pressing necessities of the population, and
then for establishments of public utility, such as hos-
pitals and schools.
The houses were built very elegantly in 1836, but
were destroyed by the calamity, notwithstanding their
solidity, as also the " Pasaje de Comercio," a kind of
bazaar, and an active centre for transactions in cattle.
Here commenced the fire which immediately followed
the earthquake. The new city is principally built along
the Alameda^ a large and beautiful promenade of a
kilometre long, ornamented with a quadruple row of
elms and poplars, watered by a double canal of running
water. The houses which formerly bordered it were
destroyed, but the trees suffered little. It is now the
most populous and the most lively quarter of Mendoza.
The principal square is to the south-west of the Ala-
meda, and there are built the Government offices,
barracks, cathedral, and prison, forming two sides of
the quadrangle.
The town is traversed by a great canal, " Sanjon," and
also the canal Guaimallen, the name of the Indian prince
who occupied the canton at the time of the conquest.
This canal is derived from the Rio de Mendoza, not far
from Lujan, and is thought to be the work of the
Indians; but it appears rather a naturally detached
branch of the river, and feeds a number of canals which
water the town and its environs. Water is laid
on to all the streets, most of which are well paved, and
every facility afforded for cleanliness and comfort, if
the inhabitants would only attend a little more to
hygiene, and follow the oft-repeated, wise counsels of
their able and learned physician, Dr. Edmund Day, M.D.,
62
an English practitioner of many years' residence amongst
them. The town has five plazas or public squares.
Owing to the intense heat of the country towards
the north few wild animals exist. The guanaco dwells
in the mountains, and the couguar abounds on their
slopes. It is, however, quite different in the south.
The jaguar is found in the woody plains by the River
Diamante and the Latuel ; the ostrich and various species
of deer are very abundant near these rivers; game
of all sorts abound. The little animal called pichi-
ciego {chalmydophorus truncatus) is exclusively found
in the region of the lagoons ; the aguara and the otter
in the marshes of Vermejo, near Tunumaya, and
the lagoons, and in the valleys of the southern rivers
and their marshes. The streams and rivers about Men-
doza have plenty of fish, but it is only in the lagoons
of Guanacache that the fine trouts so much prized in
the capital are found. The fishermen carry them a dis-
tance of 30 leagues to market, which is accomplished
at a gallop in one night.
Mendoza is favoured by a numerous immigration from
Chili, consisting of the poor hard-working agricultui-al
classes, who, attracted by the facility for acquii'ing good
land and its cheapness, come over and settle definitely,
often realising a moderate fortune, and always making
an excellent living and mdependence. This is mainly
owing to their superior industrial and thrifty habits,
energy, and hard work, accompanied by a thorough
knowledge of agricultui'e as practised by ii-rigation.
Mendoza boasts of a fine college, supported by the
National or Federal Government, and m which are taught
mathematics, physics, chemistry, classics, and foreign
languages.
63
MINERAL RESOURCES, &c.
Mining in this province is at present limited to a single
district, that of the Paramillo de Uspallata, about 22
leagues distant W.N.W. from the city. Numerous
lodes and mines exist in the southern part of the pro-
vince— -some of them of importance — but they are not
beino- worked. The nearest of these is in the Cerro de
Cacheuta, at a distance of about 10 leagues S.S.W. from
the city. It only consists of a small lode from which a
few tons of ore have been taken out, but of a character
exceedingly interesting from a scientific point of view ;
the commercial results, however, were not very satis-
factory. The ore is a remarkable combination of silver,
lead, copper, iron, and cobalt. Its composition is entirely
new in mineralogy, and was unknown until the year
1858, when I first saw it in Chili, directing thereto
the attention of Senor Domeyko, Rector of the University
of Santiago, whose analysis confirmed that of Professor
D .Forbes, F.R.S., &c., and my own previously expressed
opinions. This analysis was effected at the cost of much time
and labour, and, according to Senor Domeyko, the com-
position of the mineral was as follows : —
ANALYSIS OF FIVE SPECIMENS.
Lead
Silver
Copper
Iron
Cobalt
Selenium
Ferrugineous matrix
Carbonate of Lead . . ,
I.
43-50%
21. GO ,,
i.8o „
2.20 „
0.70 „
30.00 „
6.80%
20.85 „
12.91 „
3-10 „
1.26 „
22.40 ,,
37.10%
9.80 „
10.20 „
1.20 „
2.80 „
30.20 „
6.50 „
21.25
3.73
13.80
3.35
1.97
15.20
59.80
0.80 „
23.60 „
3.50 „
10.90 „
This ore is not abundant, the lode being very narrow,
and at a depth of 8 fathoms it almost entirely disappears.
64
Owing to the rainy season and consequent rising of
the Rio de Mendoza, and the danger of crossing it, I was
unable to visit this mine, or those situated further south.
With this vein I was, however, previously acquainted.
Another mine — " La Salamanca " — 30 leagues to the
south, has lately been worked, but is" now suspended.
It is an important vein, yielding yellow and purple
copper pyrites, and was worked by a Chilian company
for some years, who abandoned it when the yield of
good copper ore began to fall off (35 to 40 per cent.).
In the year 1867, Messrs. Canto and Villanueva
acquired the mine, and worked it for the poor yellow
pyrites, which yielded only 10 to 12 per cent, copper
when well dressed, and generally only 6 to 8 per cent. ;
but, being in need of fluxes to form regulus in their
smelting operations at the Paramillo, they were obliged
to extract this ore (of wliich I will speak hereafter), and
notwithstanding the high charge for transport to the Para-
millo (150 miles) of £4 13s. per ton, these gentlemen
make a profit by the transaction. The vein is extremely
abundant, being upAvards of six feet in width, and the
ore is raised to the surface at a cost of not more than
13s. 4d. per ton.
To the south of the Fort of San Rafael are numerous
mines of copper and silver, but from their present inac-
cessible situation among the savages of the pampa they
are not worked.
Still further south, on the banks of the Rio Colorado,
are the celebrated deposits of auriferous copper in the
Cerro de Payen.* The Abbe Molina, in his valuable and
authentic work, first volume, page 96, speaks of them in
the following terms : —
* "Payen" in the Indian language means Copper.
65
" The most famous copper mine yet discovered in the
kingdom of Chili (at that time the Provinces of Cuyo'
belonged to Chili), was that of Payen, which at present'
is not worked because the Puelches, who possess that
district, will not permit strangers to explore or reside in
their territory ; but when excavations were first made,
masses of pure copper were extracted of from 2 J to 5
tons each in weight. Historians of that period record
that this copper was of so excellent a colour that it ap-
peared to be a true counterfeit of gold, since it more
resembled gold than copper, while, to extract it, all that
was necessary was to kindle a fire beneath the masses of
stones containing this precious metal."
M. Frezier, a French writer, also refers to these mines,
in the account of his travels, volume first, page 145,
where he states that "he saio^ in Concepcion in Chili, a
mass of copper which weighed 40 cwts., and which had
been carried thither by the Spaniards, and that while he
was there it was smelted, and six cannons of small calibre
were cast from it."
Having this data before us, it would be important to
organize an expedition for the exploration of those dis-
tricts, but this could only be carried out with a large
armed force on account of the Indians. Those resrions
are little known, and it is impossible to rely on the
existing maps and plans, as up to the present the country
in question has not been explored by any competent
geographer.
PAEAMILLO DE USPALLATA.
In this region great and general enthusiasm now exists
for mining, resulting as much from the discoveries of
mineral riches that have been made in depth, as from the
I
66
success which has attended the smelting operations in
argentiferous copper regulus, carried out by Senor Don
Antonio del Canto, in partnership with Serior Don
Eustaquio Yillanueva, who also work two important
mines by means of adits driven from the bottom of the
valleys, and cutting the lodes at great depth. The mines
are named " El Rosario " and "San Rumaldo." Both
are very ancient, and perhaps date from the first mineral
discoveries at Uspallata, which, according to the archives
preserved in Chili, is stated to have occurred in the year
1638. They were not worked, however, until 1762,
more than a century later.
The old workings are nearly all useless, the lodes are
broken down and gutted on the surface and to a verti-
cal depth of 60 yards. The old miners generally were
only acquainted with what is termed amongst Spaniards
"warm metals" {metales calidos)^ or those easily reduced
or beneficiated directly by means of mercury, forming
with it an amalgam of silver, which, after straining, is
pressed and heated in a cast-iron retort until the mercury
is driven off, and there remains a metallic mass of almost
pure silver. In nearly every mine this class of ore
disappeared at a depth of 40 to 50 yards, and was replaced
by "cold metal" {metal f no) ^ not amalgamable; hence
these workings were abandoned, the mmers returning on
the bridges and pillars above, removed all the " warm
metals " that remained, eventually abandoning the mines
altoo-ether. Other mmers followed, who worked the
"cold" ores, or those reduced by smelting, until these
likewise were exhausted, the veins still continuing, but
in a mass of fine porphyric stone, which of course put
an end to profitable working. Some, more adventurous
than others, carried on the workings at a loss, and pene-
67
trating this obstinate layer, reached again the " cold "
plumbiferous ores, producing a fair percentage of silver.
Immediately below this second bunch of ore they came
upon another stratum of the same stone, which cut off
the veins as above, and being of greater thickness than the
first, completely disheartened the miners; they all,
without exception, abandoned the mines as exhausted,
taking away the small quantity of ore that rewarded
their final efforts. So things stood, until a few years
since, when some adventurers again undertook to prose-
cute the work, following in the track of their predecessors.
Selecting the same place, they cut through the unpro-
ductive stratum, and came upon the same "cold metal,"
but mixed with blende or sulphide of zinc, a bad combi-
nation for smelting in the description of mud furnaces
used commonly by the natives.
These being disheartened, there remained hardly any
miners in Mencloza of sufficient spirit to resume afresh
the workings and to risk a few thousands in testing the
veins at a. greater depth. About the year 1865, I
visited this mineral district for the first time, and the
lodes appeared to me so firm, massive, and well formed,
as to inspire me with great confidence in the ultimate
yield, and induced me to commence operations there.
At the bottom of the lowest valley, in the vicinity of the
mine " Rosario," I began driving an adit level with the
double object of cutting the vein at a much lower point
than had been reached before, and of draining the old
workin2:s of the water which had there accumulated for
years. In consequence of political disturbances and
various drawbacks, resulting from the crisis of 1866-67,
in the interior, the workings were paralysed for the
time.
68
My then partner, Sefior Don Eustaquio Villanueva, re-
sumed them at the end of 1867, in association with
Senor Canto, and at 220 yards run of adit they came
upon a productive section of the vein, half a yard wide,
rich in argentiferous galena, or sulphide of lead, with a
ley of 250 ounces silver to the ton. This ore was found
at a vertical depth from the surface of about 170 yards.
From that date up to the 3 1st of December, 1868, the
mine has produced ore of the value of about £5,000,
with a total cost, including the adit, of about £3,900,
leaving a profit of £1,100. In addition to this absolute
profit there are 44 pillars in virgin ore, as also the en-
tire floor of the lower working, or gallery, 55 yards in
length, the value of ore in which I have roughly esti-
mated at £4,200; so that the profit of the mine for the
short time it has been at work, may be stated at nearly
£5,000. In the virgin workings 25 miners can be easily
placed, and these should produce monthly at least 30
tons of first-class ore of 222 ounces, and 45 tons of
second-class of 102 ounces to the ton. These ores hold
also about 60 per cent. lead. The deeper workings are
in water, but it is being extracted easily with a hand
pump worked by two men.
In the other mine of Messrs. Canto and Villanueva^ —
" San Rumaldo," — they have followed the same plan
of driving levels to cut two veins which unite at 81
yards from the entrance, that of the south 106 yards in
length, and that of the north 80 yards. In this mine
they have not yet reached the depth at which they
expect remunerative results ; but they have nevertheless
cut some fine dark ruby silver ore (sulpho-antimonide
of silver), the first-class holding 207 ounces to the ton,
and the remainder, which is abundant, 128 ounces to
69
the ton. The expenditure in this mine has been about
£860, and it has produced in ore a value of about
£500.
The vein varies from half a yard to a yard in width.
The adits here, as in the other mine, are well driven
and so as to work with wheelbarrows in raising orestuff.
Messrs. Canto and Villanueva, in addition to the works
already indicated, have erected a small r e verb eratory fur-
nace for producing argentiferous copper regulus, situate
a short way from the mines, and on the highroad to Chili.
It stands at a height above sea level of 8,702 feet, and
the temperature is therefore cold even in summer.
Wood is very scarce, and rather distant from the works ;
it costs about £1 9s. per "cajon" or perch of 16 cubic
yards, but in smelting it is mixed with bituminous
schists, of which there is a large deposit in the imme-
diate neighbourhood of the furnace. These schists are
found at a few feet below the surface and cover an ex-
tensive tract. The thickness of the principal bed is
about half a yard, composed of seven distinct layers. It
contains 28 per cent of volatile combustible matter, con-
sisting principally of carburetted hydrogen, and of little
power as a generator of heat. Still, it is used in the pro-
portion of 40 per cent, with wood, but is fired separately,
being burned on bars in another fire place, separated by
a small bridge from and at right angles to the wood grate,
which is furthest from the furnace bridge. Thus the
flame of the latter passes over and ignites the schists,
aiding considerably in their combustion. These schists
leave such a large quantity of ash and residuum that
it is necessary to remove the grate bars every now and
again in order to get rid of these accumulations, which
would otherwise interfere with the draught, or free
70
entrance of air to support combustion. It is therefore
doubtful whether the use of these schists is beneficial or
economical. In my opinion they are not so advan-
tageous as at first sight would appear.
The smeltino- is effected in a furnace of the reverbe-
ratory class commonly used for copper, but of smaller
size. It is 12 feet in length by 6 in width, inside
measurement, with a stack 51 feet in height. About
22 quin. of crude ore forms a charge, and six charges
are smelted in the 24 hours. When I was there each
charge consisted of the following mixture : —
Yellow and purple Copper Pyrites... of 10 „ 350ft)
Ditto, ditto, ditto, ditto, Llampos ) ^^-^^ jcoTb
(fine grain) j " ^
Silver ores, consisting of Sulphides, "j
Arsenides, and Antimonides, ^ of 97OZ. totheton 570B)
with galena in small proportions j
Ditto, ditto, with chlorides of silver, of 65 ,, „ 650ft)
Total 2,200
This charge being run down produces in regulus
about 5 cwts., with a le}^ for silver of about 200 ounces
to the ton and 20 per cent, of copper. The loss is almost
inappreciable.
This is the first fusion and the regulus thus obtained
is not sufficient!}^ high for exportation; it has therefore
to be smelted over, a second time, fresh silver and cop-
per ores (silicates and carbonates) being added. These
increase the ley by yielding their metallic contents to
the already formed regulus, which contains in itself suf-
ficient excess of sulphur to render the addition of new
71
flux unnecessary. In this condition it is sent to Chili,
the silver and copper realising their respective values.
By this plan of smelting the large quantity of poor
silver and copper ores which exists in the Paramillo is
utilized, which otherwise would not cover the cost of
its conveyance to market.
The plumbiferous ores and those of good ley for silver
are not smelted, but are carefully picked, and the
smalls washed in jigging machines, for direct remittance
to Chili — i.e.^ when the ley is from 300 ounces to the
ton upwards.
The capital invested in this business, including mines
and smelting furnaces, reaches a total of £9,000.
At the time of my visit, the quantity of ore on the
surface, including 240 mule loads (about 45 tons) de-
posited in Uspallata for remittance to Chili, and the
regulus, &c., in the smelting works, represented an ap-
proximate value of £3,800.
The employes in the mines and at the smelting
establishment were as follows : Majordomos, 3 ; foremen,
3 ; smelters, 4 ; blacksmiths, 3 ; carpenters, 1 ; fore-
miners, 14; assistant do., 12; other labourers, 37 ; there
were besides of woodmen and muleteers about 30.
In addition to the works erected by Canto and Valla-
nueva (whose partnership is disolved, these gentlemen
now prosecuting their labours apart), there are some
others of importance in mining, carried on by Messrs.
Maza and Correas with a perseverance and application
worthy of better results than those which have up
to the present time been obtained. The former has the
following mines in active operation : —
Santa Rita. — The lode runs east to west, five degrees
to the south ; deepest shaft 45 yards vertically ; in bene-
72
ficio at the bottom in sulpho-antiraonide of silver with
galena. In this mine the geological statification is very
clearly marked, and various beds of porphyry have
broken up the vein, as has been previously mentioned.
Here there are four distmct layers, each thicker than
the other, and invariably cutting off the vein, which,
however, on this obstacle being passed, is on each occa-
sion found to be better at the increased depth.
Ore on surface, 12 tons, containing 450 ounces sil-
ver to the ton. The people employed were : 1 foreman,
5 fore-miners, and 4 assistant do.
Mine Tajo. — This vein is wide and important, but at
the present moment it is in " broceo,'' or unproductive,
and the workings are being followed in depth. The
ores from this mine hold 100 ounces silver to the ton.
In Uspallata, about 7 leagues distant, Senor Maza has
erected a Chihan mill, with the object of grinding and re-
ducing the ores from his mines. It was not completed
at the time of my visit, but it was hoped that it would
be at work at the end of three months. Its construc-
tion had cost £330.
This gentleman has expended about £2,000 in mines
and other analogous works.
Dn. Delfin Correas is working the celebrated old mine
of " Ballejos^'' with the lode visible on surface for about
600 yards. Its direction is N.N.E. to S.S.W., and the
vertical depth of lowest working is about 100 yards.
Thouo-h the workings and means of communication within
the mine are excellent, the lives of the labourers are
very seriously endangered, owing to the taking away
and thmning of old pillars. This mine was the first
worked by the Spaniards when the district was dis-
covered, and has produced many thousand pounds
i6
weight of silver ; it is now however comparatively worth-
less, being worked out in the accessible parts, and dan-
gerous to the lives of the workmen owing to the falling
in of the roof some years ago when several miners were
buried alive.
There were fourteen persons employed on this
mine.
In the eastern part of the Paramillo, and close to the
highroad from Mendoza to Uspallata, there are many
veins of auriferous quartz, formerly worked by the
Spaniards, and even by the Indians, for we find their
peculiar old grinding stones or Marayes strewn about,
and these are essentially pre-Hispano. The workings are
however now choked up and may be said to be worth-
less; the veins are narrow, although some were
extremely rich in former times. Some four or five old
miners were working in three of these mines, but only
extracting fragments of ore from old shafts and levels ;
these ores hold from 7 to 10 ounces of fine gold per ton,
but the quantity is so insignificant that it can only afi*ord
a miserable existence to such men. There is no water
nearer to these old mines than at a distance of two
leagues down valley, and that so trifling that it scarcely
aff'ords sufiicient for the necessary domestic use of the
workmen.
Three copper mines also exist in the Paramillo, but
the ley of these ores is inferior, not exceeding on the
average 16 per cent. They are carbonates, oxides, and
silicates, and difiicult to smelt, save when mixed with
the sulphureous fluxes contained in the mine Salamanca
in the south. The copper deposits in Paramillo cannot
be classified as veins, but as bunches, or accidental
deposits, of considerable extent and importance; but
74
they may suddenly give up at any time. They are at
present being worked, but their prospects are not
of a very promising character. They are named " El
MantodeCobre," " Santa Elena," and "Sud California,"
and in former years yielded large quantities of copper.
The ores were smelted by Senor D. Felipe Correas in
his furnaces at Uspallata, but he failed to obtain good
results, for want of sulphureous ores, and in consequence
of the heavy cost of carriage of the latter, which pre^
vented the transport from La Salamanca.
At that time the value of copper in bar, placed in
Chili, was, on the average, about £4 3s. 4d. per cwt,
(at present it is only worth £2 10s.), and, with the high
'charges for working and transport, no profit was possible,
Now it is otherwise. A cwt. of regulus^ holdmg silver
of the ley exported by Senor Canto, is at least worth
£3 15s. to £4 3s. 4d., while, provided it be not con-
verted into bar copper, the expenses of reduction are
less than one half.
In the Paramillo water is very scarce, and the little
that exists is of inferior quality. This is found close to
the smelting works, issuing from a few small springs,
and only by exercising the greatest economy in its use
are the requirements of the people and the live stock
barely supplied.
Fuel is also scarce, since wood can only be obtained
at some distance from the furnace, costing about Is. 3d.
per cubic yard; but the chief difficulty consists in the
Avant of mules, and muleteers to carry it to the furnace.
This arises principally from the almost total lack of
pasture for the animals in the mountains, while, from
the elevation and arid nature of the district, the mule-
teers do not wish, nor indeed can they very long endure
75
a sojourn there with their animals. Were there a car-
riage road it would be very easy to obviate this difl&culty,
as large quantities of lucerne are annually lost in the
province (on the plains), and which, if collected and
pressed dry, would be an important branch of industry
for the agriculturist, and a signal benefit to the mining
interests of Mendoza.
North of the Ballejos mine, I found various thin beds
of a highly bituminous coal, covering a considerable
superficial extent. The thickest is only eight inches,
and is found at a depth of four feet from the surface.
A shaft had been sunk on this deposit to a depth of 24
feet, but, finding no more coal, the attempt was aban-
doned. In my opinion the exploration ought to be
continued until the primary rocks, which form the base
of the Paramillo range adjoining, are reached. The geo-
logical formation observable on the surface is secondary,
with patches of tertiary here and there, but the ground /
is so broken up and disturbed by volcanic action, that
it is impossible, with certainty, to fix its true age.
Nevertheless, I am of oj)inion that bituminous coal, of
good quality, will be found to exist in Uspallata valley,
sloping down about seven miles to the westward.
I have analysed several of the samples, taken by my-
self from the beds already alluded to, and obtained the
following results :
Specific gravity, 1*1375; colour, black; lustre, re-
splendent as polished jet ; smooth, hard, brittle ; fracture
concoidal ; opaque. Composition :
Hygroscopic moisture 0.84 per cent.
Volatile combustible matter 54.80 ,,
Fixed carbon 40.36 „
Ash 4.00 „
100.00
76
Coke, 44*46 per cent., of which 4 per cent is ash.
Distilled in a closed retort, at a comparatively low
temperature, it produces a hydro-carbon oil, containing a
fair proportion of paraffin, the total products represent-
ing 36 per cent, of crude oil, and 48 per cent, of
carbonaceous residue.
This coal is not so abundant in the Paramillo as the
bituminous schists, which I have already mentioned as
being used for fuel, in conjunction with wood, at Canto's
furnace, but it is of sufficient importance to warrant a
more searching exploration, with the object of deter-
mining the extent and quality of the deposits. As the
analysis shows, its composition is valuable, equally for
the production of gas and kerosene oil, as well as fuel
in furnaces for the smelting and reduction of ores.
The bituminous schists of Mendoza, together with the
liquid petroleum springs existing to the south of the
city, must one day prove invaluable sources of material
wealth, on account of their great commercial value.
The most important deposit of petroleum is situated
at 70 leagues from Mendoza, on the road leading to
the " Planchon " pass for Chili. Sefior Pando (a Chi-
lian) had experiments made on their quality and extent
some years ago, and the result, as regards the quantity
and quality of the oil extracted, could hardly be more
satisfactory, the only difficulty being to decolorise the
oil ; but this, in my opinion, resulted from bad reagents
and the want of proper apparatus for its purification.
The crude petroleum yields 40 per cent, of pure
kerosene oil ; it is found flowing lazily over the surface, dis-
charged through subterranean apertures or sources, and
when the atmospheric temperature rises in the summer,
it causes the fluid to run for a great distance, when
77
gradually cooling, it forms a hard and compact mass,
without changing the important ingredients of its com-
position. At ten leagues from Mcndoza is another
deposit, not so extensive or important, but from its
proximity to the city, perhaps may be of much value
at some future period.
I believe that, on boring to some considerable depth,
a valuable deposit of liquid petroleum will be found in
the province, and it is surely worth while to try the
experiment, and if possible ascertain its extent and im-
portance. In Mendoza, however, there are neither
capitalists nor enterprise sufficient to carry out an ex-
ploration of this description, and, unless the National
Government assume the initiative in promoting such
survey, it will never be undertaken by private persons.
There exists in the country too much apathy and
indifierence towards this discription of enterprise, the
more so in this part of the Republic, so devoid of an
expeditious and cheap means of transport for its
products.
The same may be said with reference to the bitumi-
nous schists of the Paramillo, whose yield of kerosene
would be important, and, from its great abundance, the
oil might be extracted with profitable results if only an
economic means of conveyance could be provided.
At two leagues from the city, in the lower spurs of
the Paramillo, towards the west, is a somewhat im-
portant bed of the same bituminous schists, but it is not
worked.
In the Paramillo and other parts of the province first-
class fire clays, for brickmaking and construction of
furnaces, pottery, &c., are found, covering a large
extent of country, and extending northwards to the
78
province of San Juan; indeed, I may safely assert that
it reaches as far as the frontiers of La Eioja, nearly 300
miles distant.
These clays, and the formations which accompany them,
having' reference to their fossils and classification, fur-
nish decisive indications of the presence of carboniferous
deposits throughout the entire district. In the proper
place I will allude to them* and state what I observed
during my explorations.
On the road across the Cordillera to Chili (via Uspal-
lata and La Cumbre), at a place known by the name of
" Puente del Lica" (Bridge of the Inca), also in the
province of Mendoza, are several thermal springs, whose
medicinal properties are notorious and generally admit-
ted; but, besides these, they contain a considerable
quantity of boracic acid, or the base with which to form
borax, an article of great consumption and utility. In
Tuscany, in Italy, the evaporation of waters containing
boracic acid, in combination with soda, is a valuable and
productive industry, and one of the chief sources of re-
venue for the Government.
This and other industries in the province of Mendoza
are capable of rapid development ; but one great incon-
venience is severely felt — the want of fire-wood — which
every day is becoming scarcer, more distant from the
city, and consequently dearer. For these reasons it is
of cardinal importance to utilize the carboniferous de-
posits. The cost of provisions in the province is low ;
flour, from 5s. to 10s. per cwt. ; maize, 5s. to 6s. 8d. ;
beef, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. per arroba of 25 lbs.; potatoes,
10s- per cwt. Wine and raisins, as already stated, are
most abundant and cheap, the latter Id. per lb.
The roads from the city to the mines in the south
79
are good, and, at a very slight cost, might be rendered
available for carriage traffic ; but those leading to the
mining district of the Paramillo are extremely rough,
steep, narrow, and in every sense bad and almost dan-
gerous. The route through " Villavicencio " is shorter,
and, being the highway to Chili, over which all the
transandine commerce passes, one might have expected
it to be m fair condition, but, in point of fact, it is the
very worst. I would therefore call the serious attention
of the Government to this road, not merely as necessary
for the conveyance of mining produce, but of great
commercial and public utility, as being the national
highway to the frontier and Chili. It is precisely that
section of it extending between the city and the mines
of Paramillo which is exceptionally bad, the road being
better and more easy for traffic even in the highest
parts of the Cordillera. The gully of " Villavicencio "
is very narrow, and the ascent very steep and high. In
the winter, when it freezes and ice forms on the stream
running through the gorge, it is almost impossible to
pass over it, and is so narrow that there is no space to
avoid doing so by sidings; a steep declivity is en-
countered at the top, most difficult of ascent, whilst the
prejudicial effects of the "Puna," (or rarefaction of the
atmosphere so severely felt at high altitudes), inconve-
nience the traveller, and tend to inutilize the mules and
horses. I do not consider that it would be either easy
or really useful to make a carriage road, or even a good
mule track by this route, as, the gully being so narrow
it would soon be destroyed by violent torrents of water
which flow through it at certain seasons of the year ;
but there is another route, a little more to the north, by
which a carriage road might be constructed at a very
80
small cost, the results and commercial value of which
would be incalculable. With a carriage road to Uspal-
lata, the cost of which, I believe, would not exceed
£2,000 sterling, the painful passage across the Cordillera
would be rendered comparatively light, and the distance
to be traversed on mule back shortened by two or three
days. In addition, the merchandise and produce of the
country could be transported with greater facility and
at less cost, while the numerous mines and coal deposits
mio;ht be worked with success.
The route which I would propose is by the actual road
on the plain as far as Los Cerillos, seven leagues from
the city to the north; thence by Las Higueras, five
leagues to the north, deviating towards the west, in a
course more or less "W.N.W. to El Carrizal; the whole
of which is over almost level ground, presenting
no greater difiiculty than the removal of shrubs and
stones. From Carrizal the route would then pass
through the gorge of Las Cuevas to an elevated pomt
reached by a very gradual ascent, afterwards traversmg
the Arroyo de las Cuevas, and coming out upon the road
from San Juan to Uspallata, at a height about equal to
that of the Paramillo mines, and higher, in pomt of sea
level, than the former. In the gullies of Las Cuevas
and Carrizal alone would works of any importance be
required to render this route perfectly available for
carriage traffic, and even these might be reduced to a
little blasting away of rock so as to widen two or three
points which are rather narrow. Once above the Para-
millo de las Cuevas, the road is easy and level, presenting
no inconvenience up to Uspallata and the mines.
This road would also serve in part for the traffic of
San Juan, and for that of the mines of Tontal and
81
"Castano," which are at present isolated from the plains
for want of a carriage road. There is little work to do
in making a road from Las Cuevas of Mendoza to
"Calingasta" and "Castaiio," as the ground is com-
paratively level and easily traversed.
Census, 1869 : Population, City, 8,124 ; Country,
57,332; total, 65,456.
K
82
PROVINCE OF SAN JUAN.
GENERAL PHYSICAL ASPECT, DESCRIPTION OF SOIL,
CLIMATE, &c.
The province of San Juan is situated partly upon the
eastern slope of the Andes, and partly in the great plain
which lies at their base, between 30° and 32° 20' south
lat., 68° 40' and 72° west long. (Paris.) Its limits to
the west are Chili by the crest of the great Andes ; to
the north and north-east, Rioja by the extremity of the
Sierras de Guandacol, and the travesia de los Llanos ; to
the east with San Luis by the Sierra of Las Quijadas
and the lagoons of Guanacache. These lagoons, and a
line drawn due west in passing by the Ramblon, form
its limits with Mendoza on the south. Its superficial
area is about 3,300 square leagues.
This province represents a great arid plain, often saline
towards the base of the Andes, which mountains are
divided longitudinally by extensive valleys; those to
the north of the capital wide and almost without water;
those to the south narrower and fairly watered. The
river of San Juan descends from the principal range,
and describes a great curve, first from south to north,
83
then from north to south, flowing past the town, and
eventually forming lagoons in the low saline plains.
The numerous canals derived from it for the purpose of
irrigation have considerably weakened its flow and
formed marshes along its course. The mountains of
this province are almost as arid as the plain, and it is
only at intervals that pasture and stunted trees are
found : where irrigation is possible, the natural and arti-
ficial vegetation is luxuriant.
The province possesses only one good river, the Rio
de los Patos (or San Juan lower down), thus named
from the district where it rises, in the central Cor-
dillera, and where it is fed by the eternal snows of
Aconcagua and other elevated peaks around the valley
of Los Patos. Its direction is from south to north,
across a long valley formed by the mass of the Andes
to the west, and to the east by the Sierras of Yalguaras ;
then, due northward, until meeting with the Castano
river (flowing south), when it turns to the west, flowing
through the valley of Pismanta and by the little chain of
Villicun ; it then describes a curve through the valley
of Zonda, passing near the town of San Juan, where it
turns south-eastwards through Caucete and along the
base of the Sierra Pie de Palo, after passing which it
flows almost due south and falls into the lagoons of
Portezuelo, the third, in commencing by the west
of the series of Guanacache. Its total length is nearly
100 leagues, its breadth is very variable, according to
locality ; it is considerable in leaving the valley, and is
reduced near Caucete, but at its mouth is not less than
80 metres During the floods or freshets, which com-
mence in November and continue all the summer, it is
navigable for small boats from Pie de Palo to the
S4
agoons. It overflows its banks if the snows of the
Cordillera have been considerable and there have been
some violent storms. In December, 1833, the capital
was threatened with entire destruction, and about half
a square league of excellent cultivated land to the west
of the town was completely washed away, leaving only
a bed of stones which formed the substratum of the
soil. In order to confine it to its bed, and to secure the
suburbs of the town against destruction, a substantial
wall of solid masonry was built, under the administra-
tion of General Benavides. It is at this place that a
number of canals, for irrigating the vineyards and sup-
plying the capital and the department of Pozitos, are
taken out. These waters are sometimes so abundant
that the canals overflow, and, being neglected, the sub-
terranean infiltrations form a vast marsh (Cienega)
filled with aquatic plants, rendering it almost impas-
sable. This marsh assumes at its southern extremity
the form of a natural canal — the Cochagual — flowing
into the first of the lagoons of Guanacache. The con-
struction of a navigable canal from San Juan to Mendoza
would have the advantage, not only of those attending
on navigation, but also to supply water for irrigating 50
leagues of country, now almost entirely desert for want
of proper management of the surplus waters of the two
provinces.
The Rio de San Juan offers immense advantages for
irrigation. At Murallon the altitude is 800 metres ; at
the lagoons of Guanacache, in a straight line of 15
leagues, it is not more than 600 metres, being a total
declivity equal to 200 metres, which the windings of
the river render less sensible. The level lands
on the two banks, especially the left, would permit the
85
formation of an incielinite number of canals, which
could be conducted at will over a deep soil, better than
that nearer the mountains, which is now so fertile.
The waters, loaded with fertilising silt from the vall,eys
of the Andes, would deposit a rich compost upon the
country, and rapidly improve the most sterile soils.
At a short distance from the town the stream of
Zonda irrigates the valley of this name and a part of the
lands of the Marquezado. The valley of Jachal is
watered by the river of this name, formed by the
streams Salado and Carnerito, rising from the plateau
of the Andes at the foot of the Nevados de Potro and
Bonete ; the Kio Vermejo de Vinchina unites with them
on leaving the valleys, and all those streams of water,
exhausted by numerous infiltrations and minor streams,
are lost under the name of Rio de Tafin, or Sanjon, on
the plains to the east of the chain of the Pie de Palo ;
in rainy seasons and after freshets they sometimes as-
sume some magnitude.
All the other water courses of the province are merely
torrents and streams from the mountains, entirely
absorbed by the necessities of agriculture. The number
is unhappily small, for in leaving Aconcagua, and to-
wards the north, the chain of the Andes is pre-eminently
dry.
Nearly all the orographic system of San Juan belongs
to the Andes, and presents, from west to east, one series
of longitudinal chains, inclining a little to the south-
east. The great mass commences to enlarge into pla-
teaux under the parallel of Jachal ; lower it is narrower,
and the width does not exceed two leagues. The Sierra
of the Yalguaras runs parallel to the principal chain,
from which it is separated by the valley of Rio de los
86
Patos; Tontal, so rich in silver minerals, forms the
eastern buttress ; the chain of Zonda, still farther to the
east, borders the plain. The river of San Juan sepa-
rates these three chains from those of the north. The
most westerly encloses some large valleys, in parts arid,
as those of Pismanta and of Jachal ; whilst their little
buttresses circumscribe narrow and habitable regions,
such as Mogna and Valle Fertil.
The triangular chain of the Pie de Palo is the most
easterly of all. The little Sierra of Guayaguas is con-
nected with that of Las Quijadas and belongs to the
system of San Luis. There is no volcano in action in
the mountains of San Juan, and these are generally
arid and desolate, rich only in mineral wealth. They
gradually rise in height from the plain to the mass of
the Andes, where they attain an average altitude of
4,500 metres. Aconcagua and a few others are snow
capped ; the mountains to the east of San Juan river
are only accidentally, or during winter, coA^ered with
snow.
In consequence of its physical conformation, the pro-
vince of San Juan may be divided into three regions —
viz., the mountainous cordon of the Andes, the valleys,
and, lastly, the plain. The Sierras of San Juan consist
principally of porphyry in the central chain; sandstone,
clay-slate, limestone, and gneiss in the eastern. The
valleys of the Andes are formed by an immense deposit
of boulders, covered by a crust of vegetable earth more
or less thick ; in some of the largest valleys the boulders
are bare, such as the Pismanta and Jachal. Farther
off from the mountains the soil is a sandy clay, very
often saline, with some chlorides, carbonates, and sul-
phates of soda, rendering the vegetation scarce and stunted
87
The plain of San Juan is everywhere a desert (trave-
sia), but no sooner is a small stream of water brought
to it than the aspect changes like magic, and the soil,
formerly dry and saline, becomes exuberant with rich
vegetation, and yields a hundredfold; but it drains
and dries up so quickly that it is necessary to irrigate
constantly in order to secure good crops.
Those lands which are not carefully drained become
spoiled, probably in consequence of the salt absorbed,
which renders them useless and marshy (cienegas).
This drawback could, witliout doubt, be remedied by
draining and by reservoirs.
Earthquakes are very rare in San Juan ; more so than
in the other provinces of the Andes.
The climate is eminently dry ; it rains very rarely in
the mountains and scarcely ever on the plains. The
temperature in the summer, December to March, is ar-
dent; from direct observations in 1857 we have 30°
Cent, for the last fortnight in January. The autumn
and winter are magnificent ; it freezes a little, but only
in the morning. The winds from the north and south
are violent ; the former, called " Zonda," is horribly hot,
the " Sirocco " of the country ; both raise frightful
whirlwinds of a saline dust, which oblige the inhabitants
to shut themselves in their houses during their continu-
ance ; happily they are not frequent. Storms break
over the mountains, but rarely on the plains, and only
during summer.
The salubrity of the provmce may be said to be per-
fect ; there is no peculiar malady. The goitre, so frequent
at Mendoza, is not seen here. The only epidemics known
here are the eruptive fevers and the pneumonia of the
Andes.
88
The natural vegetation, in consequence of the dryness,
is mean and stunted. It is only near the streams, and in the
quebradas (gullies) that true trees are grown, such as the
espinillo, quebracho, chanar, algarrobo, and especially
jarillos, retamos, &c. On the plains are the same species,
but blighted, as if burned, as much by the heat of the
sun as by the salt of the soil. The jume and other
saline plants are abundant, and contain a large percentage
of sulphate of soda. On the contrary, all plants or trees
cultivated and irrigated grow to perfection. The fruit
and forest trees of Europe succeed well. The poplar is
as extensive as at Mendoza, although its development is
less complete. It is the only tree in the province which
yields wood for construction, but the quality is bad ; it
is therefore essential to add other useful forest trees,
growing slower, it is true, but more valuable in time
to come.
Agriculture is carried on at San Juan on a large
scale, owing to an extensive system of iiTigation.
Cereals are of the first importance ; wheat yields beauti-
fully, especially in the first years. Fields lately cleared
gave 150 to one, but this production does not continue,
and falls to an average of 25 and 30 to one ; this, however,
is a good return. Maize is yet more prolific. All
vegetables prosper, as also do the date, orange, fig, pear,
apple, and almond, and ornamental shrubs. The vine
gives considerable productions, as much for the pre-
paration of pasas or raisins, as for the manufacture of
wine and brandy. The white wines are of good qualit}^,
but not equal to those of Rioja or Mendoza. The brandy,
which is obtained by distillation, is excellent. The
cultivation of the lucerne is very extensive ; the natural
pastures being rare, there is an absolute necessity of re-
89
placing them by artificial ones. Generally, of all the
provinces of the interior, those of San Juan and its
neighbour Mendoza are most advanced in agriculture,
which may even there be greatly extended, because there
is abundance of water, chiefly on the plains extending
towards the lagoons of Guanacache.
The animals, wild and domestic, are the same as in
the adjacent provinces. The "aguara," or red wolf, is
common in the great "cienega," or morass of Los Car-
rillos. The guanaco is seen, not only on the mountains,
but on the plains. The river of Los Patos abounds
with fish, among them trout of excellent quality. The
lagoons of Guanacache have fish of various species,
which thrive well in the briny waters.
The inhabitants do not much occupy themselves with
breeding cattle, except in some estancias of the moutains.
It is, in fact, more profitable to fatten the animals pur-
chased in the province of San Luis, in the vast enclo-
sures of cultivated lucerne, which could well nourish
thirty thousand annually.
Bullocks, horses, mules, &c.,are fed with care in these
enclosures ; the more necessary since the transit of the
Andes requires a considerable number of beasts of
burden The goat and sheep are only fed on the meagre
natural pastures of the mountains. Merino sheep have
long since been introduced, and some farmers have flocks
remarkable for their large size and the fineness and abun
dance of their wool. The fattening of cattle in the
" potreros" (fields where the lucerne is reproductive under
the influence of heat and a well-directed irrigation) is done
very rapidly ; from two to three months generally suffice.
The animals are then sent from the environs of thci
capital to the valleys of Chili, about 12 to 14 days' jom--
ney, where they are sold at very remunerative prices,
90
The commercial resources of the province are good,
but agriculture forms the principal wealth. It furnishes
food for local consumption, which is considerable, and
also for export; large quantities of flour, wines, brandy,
and dried fruits are sent to the neighbouring provinces,
and raisins are sent as far as the coast and to Chili.
Soap is manufactured by aid of the ashes of the jum6
(a crude carbonate of soda) so abundant in the saline
districts.
The great drawback to the country is the want of
good hard wood for the joiner and carpenter. They are
obliged to import them from the coast or from Tucu-
man on the backs of mules at an exorbitant price.
About 1848, following the example of Mendoza, the
silk worm was introduced, but the epidemic which
killed them at that place produced the same disaster
at San Juan, and there has been no attempt to revive
this industry which is admirably suited to the climate,
and which had given good results.
San Juan, like Rioja, forms an oasis in the midst of a
desert of dust and salt ; but the water from its rivers
has enlarged its boundaries, and provides nourishment
for a considerable population. The capital communi-
cates with all the departments by mule paths. Its
principal routes are those to the west, which, crossing
the Andes, connect it with Chili.
The pass of Los Patos is entered either by the
valleys of Zonda or Acequion, or crossing the chains of
the Tontal and of the Yalguaras. Uspallata and La
Cumbre pass is the best, but a little longer. Valparaiso
is reached by either of the two routes in eight or ten
days. There is frequent intercourse with Copiapo
by the valleys of Pismanta, San Guillermo, Pastos
Largos, and the passes of Come-Caballo and Pircas
Negras. Another route leads to Coquimbo and Huasco.
The route from the city of San Juan to Mendoza, 40
leagues, is transitable for carriages, and a diligence runs
every week ; it is perfectly level, but very fatiguing, be-
cause of a travesia, or desert, of 20 leagues, without
water or forage from the post-station of Guanacache to
that of Jocoli. This inconvenience could be overcome
by digging two or three wells and the establishment of
two post-houses not far from the Tunumaya.
There is one direct route of 90 leagues as far as San
Luis, which passes along the river and the lagoons.
The water available upon this route is a little brackish,
but the animals do not appear to dislike it. The wag-
gons can always follow it, but more frequently the
journey is made on mule back. The route from
Eioja, by Valle Fertil, is only practicable for mules,
and through a travesia of 37 leagues. It is less difficult
by way of the Sierra Pie de Palo and the point of that
of Yalle Fertil, or La Huerta ; by this route, now open
to carriages, Rioja may be reached in four days. To
Cordova there is a direct route by the desert, in touch-
ing Caucete, Guayaguas, the southern points of the
Sierra Los Llanos, San Pedro de los Sauces, and the
Cordoves Sierra, a distance of 120 leagues, but now a
carriage track is being opened which will place Cordova
in connection with San Juan, by coach, in five days.
This will of course be the high road to Rosario and
Buenos Ayres.
The province of San Juan is divided into seven de-
partments, which are sub-divided into districts. The
province has two great centres of population, viz., the
Capital and Jachal — all the other districts have very
few inhabitants.
92
The department of the capital is divided into two,
the capital proper and its suburbs. To the south of the
capital is the department of Los Pozitos ; to the west,
that of Caucete ; to the north-west, that of Albardon ;
north-east, that of Angaco ; north, those of Jachal and
ofValleFertil.
The department of the Capital is comprised within
the great curve which is formed by the Rio de San Juan,
and is consequently very extensive from east to west.
To the south it is bounded by that of Pozitos.
The city of San Juan was founded in 1561 upon the
river of this name, at a place called " Pueblo Viejo," or
old village, which was abandoned, and the new town
formed farther east, because of the inundations which
menaced it. It is bounded by four main streets, 20
metres wide, planted with poplars, forming an avenue
and enclosing an oblong 1,900 j^ards from west to east,
and 1,300 from north to south. In all there are 117
blocks, or " manzanas." The ordinary streets are 13
metres broad, and are now paved, and have foot-paths
and wooden bridges over the numerous canals which tra-
verse them, and which give water to the houses and
gardens.
The principal square or plaza is now a most charming
resort for the townsfolk, being planted with double rows
of acacias and other trees, and mider whose grateful
shade are placed neat iron sofas. All this was done by
ex-Governor, now President Sarmiento, who found this
part of his native town in the most repulsive and filthy
condition on his triumphal entree in 1861. It had long
been a series of holes, which formed receptacles for all
the offal and sweej^ings of the town, but Sefior Sarmiento
forbid these practices, and had them filled up with earth
93
and nicely levelled, and trees planted. On the western
side stands the Cathedral, an unimposing edifice
of brick and lime, stuccoed over, having two towers or
belfries, and three large doorways. Opposite to it stands
the new Government house, a neatly constructed edifice
adjoining the prison. In it are the Legislative Cham-
ber, the Law Courts, and Executive Ofiices. A few
j)rivate houses of no importance complete the square.
The church of Santo Domingo is small and adjoins a
ruined convent. The church of La Merced, commenced
by Quiroga, is not yet finished. The Augustine con-
vent is not an edifice of any pretensions, and is in a
semi-ruinous condition. Nearly all the edifices are of
"adobes," or sun-dried bricks; the walls are extremely
thick. The roofs are made with small beams of poplar
and algarrobo, covered with canes, and plastered over
with mud ; some have "azoteas" or flat roofs. The modern
houses are pretty and tastefully laid out.
The Government is now engaged in restoring the
ruined churches, in finishing those recently commenced,
in building a municipal house and barracks, and repairing
the schools. When all these improvements are com-
pleted the appearance of the town will be greatly
changed.
One of the old unfinished churches was converted by
ex-Governor Sarmiento into a fine school house, and is
now finished. It is a fine edifice, two storeys, and has
perhaps the largest saloon of any school in South America,
furnished with all the most modern school appurtenances
imported from the United States. It most justly and
deservedly retains the name of its founder, and is known
by "Escuela Sarmiento" all over the Republic.
There are a number of foreign settlers and skilful
94
workmen sufficient for works ofany immediate necessity.
All immigrants of the working classes are sure of constant
employment, for they are wanted throughout the pro-
vince ; the town has made remarkable progress under its
new administration during the last few" years.
The suburbs of the capital are very considerable, and
are divided into four sections or parishes. The one to
the north, Concepcion, includes Pueblo Viejo, or the old
town, and Las Chimbas. In the faubourg of Concepcion,
wheat, maize, lucerne, vine, &c., are cultivated. Each
proprietor has generally his house in the principal street,
or in his fields, carefully surrounded with walls en pise .
The second section or parish, situated to the west,
is that of Los Desamparados. The street along which
the population centres is nearly two leagues long, and
leads to the Marquezado; here, upon the river, is the
" Murallon," 300 metres long and of solid construction,
which henceforth will preserve this faubourg from inun-
dations; the cultivation is agricultural. At Marque-
zado are numerous kilns for lime and brick. Black
marble, with white veins, abound in the neighbouring
hills of Zonda. This canton leads to the valley of Zon-
da, on the other side of the Sierra, watered by a charming
stream of clear water, which is a favourite bathing
place for the families of the town during summer ; the
waters of this stream are muddy after freshets. The
valley of Zonda is at an altitude of 1,000 metres and
produces excellent fruits.
The eastern section, or parish, is Santa Lucia, and is
composed of one street two leagues long, and some dis-
tant cantons, such as Las Chacaritas, Rincon-Cercado,
&c., where there are canals for irrigation, and where the
inhabitants are employed in raising cereals and lucerne.
95
The south section, or parish, La Trinidad, borders
Los Pozitos ; it is not so extended as the preceding, and
includes principally country houses and gardens. Irri-
gation everywhere produces a magnificent vegetation.
The town of San Juan is situated in 31° 30' south
lat., and 69^ 40' west long. (Paris), according to De
Laberge, and at an altitude of 704 metres.
The department of Los Pozitos is to the south of the
capital; the south section is the most populous and best
cultivated, for which it is admirably adapted, and there
are large farms and estates surrounded with poplars and
enclosed walls. The valley of Acequion, between the
Sierra of Zonda and that of the Paramillo, belongs to
this department, and here are the cultivated lands of
Durasno, Barros, Acequion, Pedernal, and Quebrada de
Montaiio. The route to Uspallata passes through here.
To the south-west, along the Sierra of Zonda, upon
the route to Mendoza, are the districts of Carpinteria,
Canada Honda, and Guanacache ; the first was abandoned
for want of water, the two others produce wheat and
vines. Near Los Cerrillos, in the district of Cochagual,
there are only cattle farms, which are watered by the
great Cienega, or marsh, formed by the infiltrations
from irrigation on the high lands. The department of
Albardon stands to the north-north-west of the capital
on the other side of the river. It embraces the foot of
the Sierra of Villicun, the valley of Ullun, that of
the distant Calingasta, and a part of the Kio de San
Juan. The village of Albardon is situated near the
river, and possesses some fine cultivated farms. About
a league from the town, upon the Avestern slopes of the
little Cerro de Villicun, sulphurated mineral waters
are found, which are most successful in chronic rheu-
96
matism and skin diseases. Baths should be established,
as now everyone brings his own tent, or lodges in the
wretched hovels of the neighbourhood. The valley of
Ullun is badly watered and has but little pastures. All
the region to the north of the river is parched and dry,
but in the valleys there is vegetation. The lovely
valley of Calingasta is included in this department ; it is
situated upon a little river, which comes from the
Andes and flows into the Rio de San Juan. Its altitude
is about 5,000 feet, and it is rich in fruit and cereals.
Agriculture is followed also at Los Tapiecitos, Barrial,
and Pachaco.
The department of Angaco, or San Salvador, is
situated to the north-east of the capital, on the other
side of the river, between the Sierras of Villicun and
of Pie de Palo. Here the facility of irrigation has per-
mitted an extended cultivation as far as Punta del
Monte, by a canal of six leagues long. The village of
San Isidro is the most populous of the department.
Angaco has only one church. This department was
created in 1825, under the enlightened administra-
tion of Dr. Carril, then Governor of the province, who
made the necessary canals for irrigation. These two
cantons, besides agriculture, breed cattle. The lands
are a little saline, and dry rapidly if the water is not
often renewed. The route from Valle Fertil and from
Rioja passes through them, and, on leaving Punta del
Monte, up to 12 leagues from Valle Fertil, it is a trave-
sia, or desert, of 37 leagues.
The department of Caucete is situated on the eastern
side of the river, at the base of Pie de Palo, and stretches
out to the lao-oons of Guanacache and to the confines of
Rioja and San Luis; although of enormous extent, it
97
was formerly little cultivated, for want of water.
Before 1825, this canton was a complete desert. Under
the administration of Carril, a company was formed
to acquire from the State a vast extent of land at a very
low price, on condition of putting it in a state of
cultivation ; then the work of colonization commenced,
but was retarded by the civil wars, and it was not till
the end of 1858 that it acquired a true development.
The land was divided into squares of 10 cuadras (40
acres). On one side a principal canal was opened of 4
metres broad and two deep, and then divided into a
number of secondary canals, sufficient to irrigate 6,000
hectares of good land, which was cleared and levelled.
Now the town of Caucete, or Villa Independencia, is
situated in the midst of these fertile lands, and possesses
a church, a municipal house, a school, and begins to pros-
per. The first concessionaires of the land have become
rich proprietors and live bounteously on the products
of their vines, their wheat, and the felling of the poplar,
at present the only forest tree of the district.
The route from San Juan to San Luis passes here. In
the little Sierra of Guayaguas there are some farms, but
all these places are encompassed with desert.
The department of Jachal lies to the north of the
capital, in a large valley, a great part of which is arid
towards the south; but its upper portion is well
watered. In the mountains, which encompass it, there
are a number of little valleys, well peopled and fairly
cultivated. The river of Jachal is formed by the
streams from the plateaux of the Cordillera, and has
given a great impulse to agriculture, irrigating large
tracts of land in the department.
The town, or Villa de Jachal, has a church, school, and
98
large gardens. In the environs were formerly several
crushing mills for the gold and silver ores, which were
collected in the various mines of the department, prin-
cipally from the Cerros of Gualilan, to the south of the
town, where a rich auriferous quartz is found. Jachal
maintains active commercial relations with the ports of
Coquimbo and of Huasco, in Chili, and to where
they send cattle, fattened in its vast " potreros," and
receive in exchange European merchandise. Its com-
merce with the capital is of less importance, although
only 50 leagues distant, because of the bad roads. In
fact, from Rio de San Juan to within 12 leagues of the
chief station, or post-house, it is a desert known as the
" Travesia de Jachal," and where beasts of burden
suffer much from heat and want of water.
This department is subdivided into seven districts —
the town of Jachal ; that of Gualilan to the south ; to
the north, La Pampa, where the mines of Picado and
Guachi are situated ; Guaco to the north-east, with well
cultivated fields, vineyards, and cattle; to the west,
Rodeo and Iglesia, in the valley of Pismanta, also well
cultivated. The valley of Pismanta is parallel to that
of Jachal, and along the Cordillera it is arid in all the
lower part, but in the upper it is well watered, where
the population is increasing. Here is also found sul-
phurated mineral waters and deposits of native sulphur
and of salt. To the east, the district of Mogna
is the most populous after Jachal; there is a church, a
pretty valley watered by the Rio Moquina, and several
flour mills, moved by water, but agriculture forms
the most important featuTe in the district.
The department of Valle Fertil, or the fertile valley,
to the north-east of the capital, opens upon the great
desert of the northern Salines. Although there is
water sufficient for agriculture on a large scale, yet the
inhabitants principally occupy themselves with the
breeding of cattle, and make butter and cheese, which
they send to San Juan. The town of Valle Fertil is
upon the route to Rioja, about half-way from San Juan,
but, like Jachal, there is an inconvenient travesia of
37 leagues to reach it. These two routes, which can
scarcely be avoided, could be rendered practicable, if
wells were sunk and post-houses established, and thus
travellers would be spared the inconvenience of a long
and dangerous distance, especially if not well mounted.
The town of Valle Fertil is fairly populated, has a good
church, two schools, and a benevolent society, and is
making true progress. A better distribution of the
water would greatly increase agriculture. On the hills
and in the valleys of the department are bred large
numbers of cattle, and numerous estancias are scattered
at the foot of the eastern course of the Sierra upon the
confines of the llanos of Rioja, The springs of fresh
water are very scarce, and the possession of them occa-
sions frequent quarrels among the inhabitants.
MINERAL RESOURCES, &c.
This province, so richly endowed by nature with
mineral wealth, possesses a metalliferous zone of forty
leagues in length by as many in breadth, or say, an area
of 14,400 square miles. I do not assert that the whole
of this region is traversed by metallic veins, but in the
greater part it is so, and the extent and richness of its
deposits are still unknown. Mining in San Juan, as almost
everywhere throughout the whole Republic, is yet in its
infancy, and its true principles very little understood.
100
Its importance can only be demonstrated after years of
scientific exploration by competent and energetic men.
Unfortunately, up to the present it has been impossible
to carry out a work of so useful and civilizing a nature ; but
a few years of peace and tranquillity, which will guarantee
life and property, and secure to the industrious and well
disposed the fruits of his exertion, will stimulate the
rapid development of this and many other industries of
vital importance for the Republic.
MINERAL DISTRICT OF TONTAL.
After my visit to the Paramillo of Mendoza, I followed
the great northern Andine route along the slopes of the
Tontal, until I reached the mines of the district situated
near the western summit of this range, and which, further
to the south forms the Paramillo. The mines are about 30
leagues distant by road, and 18 in a direct line, W.S. W.
of the city of San Juan.
The road from the mines of Mendoza to those of Tontal
(35 leagues) is good and comparatively level, passing
through several open valleys, and with a trifling expendi-
ture might be converted into a good carriage road, at least
as far as the smelting works of " Hilario," located in the
valley of Calingasta, at the foot of the Cordillera of Tontal,
and on the edge of the Rio de los Patos.
The first mineral deposit of Tontal was discovered by
a Chilian in 1860; but, owing to political disturbances,
it was almost abandoned, until the year 1862, when the
actual President of the Republic assumed the govern-
ment of his native province, and had the district
thoroughly explored by the author, who was engaged in
Chili for that purpose.
These investigations resulted in ascertaining that this
mineral district was one of great promise, and would, if
101
well worked, yield profitable returns to investors. A
limited company was formed in San Juan with the object
of constructing furnaces and erecting machinery for the
amalgamation of the ores. The capital was £24,000,
and although too small to carry out any very extensive
works, was, however, sufficient to purchase machinery
and plant in England, and engage the necessary workmen
to erect it and carry out operations on a moderate scale.
After encountering many difficulties in the transport
and erection of the machinery in a country without
roads, and with people little or not at all accustomed
to this kind of work, the original company was unable
to follow up the undertaking, and other arrangements
became necessary. I offered to purchase all the shares
at par, and to work the mines on my own account, with
the ulterior view of forming a strong combination in
England for developing the property.
The shareholders accepted my proposal and transferred
all the property of the company to me. The erection of
the machinery was proceeded with, at Hilario, being the
spot selected, as preferable from the abundance of water,
wood, and other articles of primary necessity in its
neighbourhood.
At the end of 1865 the establishment was finished
and commenced operations, but meanwhile the Tontal
mmes were being constantly worked with satisfactory
and profitable results. In addition, the mining district
of Castaiio was discovered, about 18 leagues to the north,
rich in plumbiferous ores, a most important ingredient
or flux for the reduction of the "dry" and refractory
ores of Tontal. Hundreds of miners were employed in
these two districts, and at one period more than 100
mines were in active operation at the same tiniL'.
102
While the reduction establishment was being com-
pleted, ore was being accumulated on a small scale, and
in the ten months during which the smelting and amalga-
mation operations were carried on at Hilario, 1,404|
tons of ore passed through the furnaces, holding
94,562-40 ounces of silver, the value of which extracted
would be about £24,000 sterling.
The whole of this ore was raised from the Tontal and
Castaiio mines, and I merely quote these figures in order
to afford some idea of their prolific character. Large
quantities were besides exported to Chili and to other
works in the province.
Towards the end of 1866 operations were suspended
at Hilario, owmg to the revolution and impossibility of
securing sufficient transport accommodation between the
mines and the works. Hundreds of tons of selected ore
lay at the mines which there were no means of conveying
to the smelting works. The furnaces were capable of
reducing upwards often tons a day, Avhilethe deliveries of
ore did not exceed three tons. European employes and
workmen, taken there at great cost, and under contract
for certain periods to receive fixed wages, had to be
paid ; and it is easy to conceive, therefore, that, in the
absence of a sufiicient quantity of ore to keep the fur-
naces constantly at work the produce was not in pro-
portion to the cost, and consequently did not admit of
the enterprise being carried on.
In vain were high freights ofi'ered — almost double the
ordinary ones — but no inducement would attract the
muleteers and withdraw them from their accustomed
haunts on the plains. The industry and business were
new in the country, and little understood by the no-
madic and erratic denizens of the pampa.
103
Nevertheless these obstacles might have been overcome
by the coustruction of good roads and use of carts, but
unfortunately they were not the only difficulties against
which we had at that time to contend
The spring of 1866 saw the flame of civil war and
revolution violently kindled in the provinces of Cuyo ;
and this fatal barrier to the progress of civilization and
industry, appearing at so critical a moment, almost
destroyed the nascent mining industry in San Juan.
The mines were abandoned by their owners, who fled
across the Andes to save their lives and the little property
that still remained to them. The labourers and miners
left their irksome tasks in the mountains, eagerly flying
to swell the ranks of the rebels, and take up arms against
the Republic ; committing the vilest excesses, and per-
haps accumulating in one day, by heartless plunder,
more than they could realise in a life dedicated to honest
toil. The few muleteers who remained sought refuge
in the mountains, concealing their animals to save them
from the general confiscation decreed by the Vandalic
hordes of the pampas. Under such a combination of
disastrous circumstances it was impossible for a new
industry to subsist in the province, and Hilario had
therefore to succumb and suspend its operations.
The mines in work at Tontal did not at the time of
my visit exceed five in all, as, from the want of a ready
and accessible market for the realisation of the ores,
operations in the district are not sufficiently remunera-
tive to induce the investment of capital in mining enter-
prises.
The mine Senor was one of the first discovered in
Tontal, and has always yielded good ores, the general
sample holding not less than 160 ounces of silver to the
104
ton, while the lirst-class, formmg a large proportion,
holds 400 ounces to the ton.
The composition of these ores is principally sulpho-
arsenides and antimonides. We also find argentiferous
sulphates and carbonates of lead, and a small quantity
of chloride of silver, or " warm metals," but so mixed
with " cold," or plumbiferous ores, that it does not pay
to reduce them by amalgamation, being obliged to resort
to smelting, mixing them with galenas. The mne has
been much and badly worked, as the lode is irregularly
broken up and destroyed at various parts. The deep-
est working is about 25 fathoms vertically, and the
blende, or bed of sulphide of zinc, which makes its
appearance throughout the whole of this mining district
at about the same depth, has already been reached.
This bed is unproductive, and must be cut through in
order to reach productive ore, which undoubedtly exists
below it. There are still, however, workings on diffe-
rent parts of the lode from which very good ore is
obtained, and, judging by the quantity of ore at sight,
the mine would seem to be of considerable value.
The following ores were on the surface, dressed : —
About 15 cwts. first-class, holding 320 ounces per ton;
about 30 cwts. of second class, holding 264 ounces per
per ton; and about 512 cwts. of inferior ore and sweep-
ings, holdmg about 136 ounces per ton. Their value,
placed at smelting works, would be about £500.
There were nine miners employed on this mine.
The mine Senorita is very abundant in its yield
of ore, and was in good condition. As yet the blende
has not been touched, the vertical depth of the mine
being only 35 yards. The lode is well formed and
thick, and in the year 1868 produced 70 tons of ore,
105
the average ley of the ore for silver was about 192 ounces
per ton. The following ores were on surface, dressed : —
About 15 cwts. first-class, holdins; 400 ounces to the
ton; 80 cwts. second-class, holding 264 ounces per ton;
64 cwts. of course inferior holding 160 ounces per
ton; and 500 cwts. of fine sweepings from floorways
holding 144 ounces per ton. Their value, delivered at
smelting furnace, would be about £390. Six persons
were employed at this mine, which, like the preceding,
belongs to Messrs. Vicente, Oros, and Co.
The mine Dilirio is in "broceo," or unproductive
workings. It was formerly very rich a little lower
down, yielding ore with a high percentage of silver.
The continuation of the same lode was also very rich at
the mine Lucrecia^ whence a considerable quantity
of ore was exported to Chili in the year 1864, holding
2,136 ounces per ton. The working of the Dilirio
mine, which is at a lower level than the Lucrecia^
is being carried on with the object of passing the blende.
Only two labourers and a foreman Avere occupied. The
mine belongs to Don Octavio Yidela.
The mine Colon belongs to Don Aniceto Gimenez,
an energetic man, who has worked his mine without in-
termission for five years and with satisfactorj^ results.
He has invested about £450 in this work, and employs
eight miners. The upper portion of the mine is pretty
well exhausted, but the depth to which the lowest level
is carried is very small indeed, being like all the other
mines of the district. At present the workings are
being carried on by means of a shaft inclined at an angle
of 45 degrees, and the lode is visible and well defined
to a width of four feet, with specks of galena inter-
mixed with blende, marl, and quartz. This may be
106
called broceo, but it is hopeful, as the lodes show in-
dications of passing very soon through the usual bed of
blende found all over the district.
The quality of the ore extracted exceeds the
most sanguine hopes, since it yields about 160 ounces
per ton, and small particles of ruby silver ore make their
appearance, an important indication, favouring the gene-
ral opinion that good results and first-class ore will be
obtained lower down, once the bed of blende is passed.
The Carmen Alto mine may be described as the prin-
cipal mine in the district of Tontal, having, since its
first discovery, produced ores of great value. It is a
lode about two feet in width, containing ores of the two
classes, "cold" and "warm," holding an average ley
for silver of not less than 200 to 216 ounces per
ton. The vein is visible for upwards of 300 yards in
good ore ; the greater part has been taken from the sur-
face. At 35 yards depth the bed or zone of blende has
been touched, and the workings pushed on through it
for a distance of 30 yards, the lode still continuing firm
and broader, already presenting a width of three to four
feet. The body of the lode consisted of grey marl, with
galena disseminated throughout, while the blende had
almost entirely disappeared. The most important fea-
ture was the presence of small specks of rosicler, or ruby
silver, well crystallized, and this alone is sufficient
stimulus to carry on the workings.
Several samples, containing these specks, insignificant
as they appeared, yielded 456 ounces per ton, but the
average yield of the mass of the lode was not over 56
to 80 ounces.
This mine is, I consider, of great importance, and a
vein of such form and width is well worth the trouble
107
and expense of being followed to a greater depth. The
bridges or pillars, of which there are many, are inva-
riably good and rich, and, if stoped out, will produce a
large quantity of ores, holding an average of 216 ounces
of silver to the ton.
Thirty-two persons were employed in this mine,
which is the property of Messrs. Ambrosio, Caicedo and
Co. I could obtain no reliable data as to the capital
invested, but believe it cannot be under £3,500.
These were the only mines which I found in work at
the time of my visit. There are at least 100 more
lying idle for the want of an accessible market, but
once operations at Hilario are resumed, it is to be hoped
their owners will be stimulated to work with perseve-
rance and activity. The geological formation of the
Tontal range is mostly clay-slate, with mica schist. The
mines are at an elevation of 11,000 feet above sea level.
This mining district is well supplied with water and
firewood in the vicinity. Provisions cost : Beef, 2d.
per lb.; flour, 2Jd. per. lb.; maize, Id. per lb. Freight
to or from the city to the mines is 6s. 8d. to 8s. 4d. per
mule load of 380 lbs. ; to the establishment at Hilario
from mines, 13s. 4d. to 20s. per ton; to La Huerta, £5
per ton ; to Castaiio, 30s. per ton. There is little pas-
ture in the mines. The miners are paid £2 per month,
with maintenance, which latter is equal to about 25s.
According to the hardness of the rock, the cost per yard,
forward in adits, is 6s. 8d. to 16s. 8d., being 1^ yards
in breadth and 2| in height. The labourers receive
from £1 5s. to £1 10s. per month, with maintenance.
Blasting powder, manufactured in Chili, costs, placed
in the mines, about £2 per cwt. ; safety fuse, about 7d.
per coil; iron for jumpers and crowbars, £2 per cwt.;
steel for jumpers, lOd. per pound.
108
AMALGAMATION WORKS " SOROCAYENSE."
From the mines of Tontal a wide and level gully, or
quebrada, leads down westward to the important valley
of " Barrial " and " Calingasta," which is watered by the
Rio de los Patos, already described. From the mouth
or opening of this quebrada, the amalgamation establish-
ment of Sorocayense is situated about a league distant to
the north, at an elevation of 5,694 feet above the sea
level. Its rather unique name is derived from a
small town or mining district in Bolivia, whence
the system of amalgamation practised there has
been introduced. The works consist of a reverberatory
or roasting furnace, built of " adobes," or sun-dried
bricks, a Chilian mill with two well-mounted edge-run-
ners, a sieve to bolt the finely ground ores, and a rec-
tangular trough, about 12 feet long by 4 wide, and 4 in
depth, in which a transverse cylinder moves horizon-
tally, by means of a shaft and crank geared on to the
water wheel, 18 feet in diameter and 3 feet breast.
This wheel drives all the other machinery as well.
The system of reduction is properly by amalga-
mation, but the crude ores are previously subjected to
calcination with common salt, in order to chlorinise the
silver. But this object is not so satisfactorily attained
as could be desired, from the varied composition of the
ores, and owing to the absence of sulphides in the furnace,
with which to effect the necessary decomposition of the
argentiferous compounds.
In the first place, the crude ore is ground in the
Chilian mill until fine enough to pass through a sieve
with 3,600 holes to the square inch. It is then calcined
in a reverberatory furnace at a very low heat, and kept
constantly stirred for the space of five to eight hours,
109
salt being added from time to time until it reaches a
proportion of five per cent.
After eight hours the charge is drawn, and is con-
veyed hot to the rectangular trough, where a certain pro-
portion of water is added to make the mass into a thin
paste ; mercury is then added in small quantities from
time to time, until about 75 lbs. to 80 lbs. are mixed
with the ore. The mass is stirred backwards and forwards
by the action of the revolving cylinder for many hours, ac-
cording to the class of ore. When the " azoguero,'' or
foreman m charge, considers the amalgamation complete,
he adds more water for washing off the tailings, allowing
a small jet to enter and an equal quantity to be dis-
charged through smair holes at various heights in the
trough, until nearly the whole of the mass has been thus
removed ; the remaining amalgam now contains that por-
tion of the silver which was amalgamable in the ore. This
amalgam (which is called ^^pella") is then strained and
squeezed in a cone-shaped bag of strong canvas. The
greater part of the mercury is here separated, leaving a
residue in the bag, which, however, still contains about
six parts of mercury for every one of silver. Finally,
this amalgam is fired in iron retorts, the evaporated
mercury being carried through tubes, whose extremi-
ties are introduced into cold water, where it condenses,
and is collected for future use. The remaining silver
in the retorts is white, porous, and almost pure, in which
state it is sold, or is melted in iron or plumbago cru-
cibles, and cast into moulds forming ingots. Its
fineness is generally represented by .850 to .900 milesi-
mos, not being so pure as the silver produced by cupel-
lation from lead ores.
The capital invested in this establishment is not over
no
£2,500, and it is now in the possession of Messrs. Riera
and Gusto, who have rented it for two years. As the
system is rude and ill suited to the class of ores found
in the district, the produce is insignificant and the
profit less.
Only eight tons of ore are reduced in the month and
not 70 per cent, of the silver is obtained. During the
year only 350 marcs of silver (equal to 7.4 oz. troy per
marc) were produced, the realized value of which in San
Juan amounted to about £650.
Eight men were employed on these works.
SMELTIITG AND AMALGAMATION WORKS AT
HILARIO.
Three leagues further north, in the same valley, are
the smelting; and amalo-amation works of Hilario,
founded in 1863, and finished in the year 1866. It is
distant about 33 leagues westwards of San Juan, and
48 leagues north-north-west of Mendoza, in latitude
31° 50' south, and 69° 56' longitude west of Green-
wich. It is situated at an elevation of 5,624 feet
above the sea level, and is the largest mining and
reduction establishment of its class in the Republic.
The amalgamation machinery was constructed by
Messrs. John Taylor and Sons, of London, and is of
first-class Avorkmanship, consisting in part of barrels, on
the Freyberg system, and partly of tinas (or vats) on
the South American system. The works are capable
of reducing ten tons of crude ore in twenty-four hours.
The motive power for this machinery (together with the
grinding mills) is a large turbine ha\dng a fall of 33
feet, the water passing through wrought-iron tubes re-
presenting a column of 2 feet 6 inches in diameter. The
efi'ective power is conputed to equal 95 horse.
HI
But the most imj^ortant part of the establishment is
dedicated to smelting and reduction of ores by fire, with
the corresponding deposits for firewood, charcoal, fluxes,
&c. The land actually covered by the works is about
12 acres, not including labourers' dwellings, shops, meat
stalls, hotel, &c., which form a street outside.
The system of smelting followed at Hilario is on the
whole something similar to that of the ^Messrs. Klappen-
bach and Co., at La Huerta (and to which I will refer fur-
ther on), but the details are very diiferent. It is almost
identical with the new system adopted at Pontgibaud,
in France, by Messrs. Taylor and Sons, of London, who
have now the direction of that establishment. The
ores, mixed in certain proportions, are calcined with
much care in a reverberatory furnace, having two dis-
tinct compartments, one for calcination and the other
for fusion, thus effecting much economy in the use of
fuel. The ore, thus calcined and slagged, is smelted in
Castillian blast furnaces, having three tuyeres, and of
large capacity, since each furnace can smelt eight tons
of ore in the twenty-four hours, consuming about 3 tons
of charcoal. Six men are required to work each furnace,
three by day and three by night. The fuel used in this
furnace is charcoal made from retamo and alo^arrobo,
which produce 30 per cent, on the average ; in all the other
furnaces wood alone is used. The blowing machinery is a
circular fan, five feet in diameter, which makes 1,800
revolutions per minute. There is another in reserve in
case of accident. The motive power of this is a second
turbine of 25 horse power. The blast is conveyed
through all parts of the establishmennt by means of sub-
terranean canals so as to utilize it in the forges, refining
furnaces, &c.
112
The products of the Castillian furnaces at Hilario are
two only, namely, argentiferous lead and slags. The lead
is always hard, and has to be purified and softened in iron
pots, or a softening furnace, before being refined by the
English method, which is simply on a cupel, or test ring,
formed of bone ash, where the silver is obtained pure at
a single operation. The bar silver produced by this
system is seldom of inferior ley than .990, and sometimes
it reaches .995. There are three reverberatory furnaces in
Hilario, with one for refining, and two blast furnaces.
The ore deposits are capable of containing 1,000
tons, and are divided into numbered comparments for
different classes of ore.
The laboratory for analysis by the humid method is
a complete department in itself, with fine assay and
bullion balances.
In addition, there is a laboratory for assays by fire,
with its row of miniature furnaces, capable of making
100 assays daily. In the same range of buildings are
the forge, carpenters' shop, &c., with tools and imple-
ments of every description, requisite for repairing any
breakage or damage done to the machinery.
There are extensive deposits for wood and charcoal,
which are consumed in large quantities. It requires great
care to produce the latter cheaply and of good quality.
The retamo and algarroba, as already stated, give 30 per
cent, of charcoal. It is made in mounds in the open
air, and sometimes in closed kilns.
The manufacture of fire-bricks also forms an important
part of the operations at Hilario, as the consumption in
the furnaces is very considerable, and, had they to be im-
ported from Europe or Chili, the cost would be ruinous,
each brick placed in the establishment costing ls.8d.,
113
whereas those made on the spot, from refractory clays
obtained in the neighbourhood, only cost Id. each, and
are almost as good as English bricks for lead smelting.
There are about 48 acres of good cultivated land, well
enclosed, around the establishment. This is under al-
falfa or lucerne, as also a farm of 240 acres, belonging
to the works, situated at Calingasta, a distance of three \
leagues. '^ v
Whilst the establishment was at work in 1866, it pro-
duced in ten months 9,000 marcs (666,000 ounces troy)
of silver and 250 tons of lead, representing a value of
£23,000.
The prices of provisions are, more or less, those stated
in my report on Tontal, but in the valley of Calin-
gasta they have the great advantage of possessing good
pastures in alfalfa or lucerne, and all the necessaries of life.
There is abundance of firewood, which costs from
10s. to lis. 6d. per perch of 16 cubic yards. Wood
charcoal costs 2s. per cwt., delivered in the establish-
ment. Water is superabundant and of excellent
quality ; the canal for the turbines and use of the works,
opened from the Rio de los Patos to Hilario, is a league
long by 2 yards in breadth and IJ in depth.
Capital invested £60,000, in mines, smelting works,
&c.
Crossing the Rio de los Patos, and proceeding north-
wards on the road to the mines of Castaiio, at a distance
of about seven leagues, is situate " Villa Corral," where
the Hilario company had commenced the formation of a
smelting works. About 60,000 cubic yards of wood
are cut and piled up there ready for use, but the para-
lyzation of the affairs of the Company prevented the
carrying out of the project.
114
REDCrCTIO]^ WORKS AT CASTANO.
Seven leagues further north, on the Rio de Castafio,
and at the entrance to the mines of that district, are the
reduction works constructed by Messrs. Babie and Co.,
which are now stopped and almost abandoned, from
want of capital and the cessation of active operations at
the mines, as the owner only reduces the ores without
being himself actually engaged in mining operations.
It is constructed exclusively for the reduction of argen-
tiferous lead, on the same system as practised by Messrs.
Klappenbach. The works comprise two blastfurnaces,
6 feet high and rectangular in shape ; a reverberatory
furnace, one for refining on the German system, and
another of smaller size for purifying the resulting im-
pure silver from the refining furnace. A circular fan is
used to give blast to the furnaces, but is badly con-
structed and geared, and does not produce a current of
air sufficiently strong to efi'ect the proper reduction of
the ores. The loss of the precious metal must be con-
siderable as a consequence of the crude method of
smelting.
During the year 1868, 130 tons of ore were reduced,
producing 12,531 ounces of silver, whose value there
would be about £3,000. Good fire bricks are made
there, composed of three parts of a refractory sandstone,
and, to bind it, one part of finely washed earth, formed by
deposits from the turbid waters of the rivers m summer.
They are made by dry pressure, and thus, in their crude
state, are used in the furnaces.
About £3,900 were invested at the begimiing in
these works, but the amount expended in their
actual construction may be calculated m about £2,250.
Some days previous to my visit (in February) a torrent
115
from the mountains at the rear came down and caused
great damage, almost completely destroying the establish-
ment. Operations were in consequence suspended, but
during the previous year 22 men had been employed
there.
Fu-ewood is not abundant, and costs 13s. per perch of
16 cubic yards; charcoal 2s. per cwt. ; prices of provi-
sions are the same, more or less, as at the Tontal mines.
The labourers are paid from £1 13s. 4d. to £2 per
month, with rations. There is little pasturage, but
plenty of water.
MINING DISTRICT OF CASTANO.
This district, which is situated two leagues north-
wards of the reduction works just described, was
discovered in the year 1863, and is of considerable
extent, covering an area of at least 100 square miles,
i.e.^ the part already known. Its. ores are principally
galenas, sulphates, and carbonates of lead, holding a
small proportion of silver, but very abundant, since there
are lodes exceeding 9 feet in width, and visible on the
surface for nearly a mile.
There are many veins of " dry " refractory ores, inter-
mixed with galena; these hold on an average from 96 to
148 ounces of silver to the ton, and some over 190
ounces.
At present there are only three mines there, viz.,
the Julieta^ the Rosario^ and the Dos Amigos. The
first is worked for dry ores, whose ley ranges from
58 to 74 ounces per ton; the second for pure galena,
with only 30 ounces to the ton — this is used for flux for
dry ores in smelting ; and the third for galena and dry
ores mixed, with a ley of about 103 ounces. Not more
than ten persons are employed on all the workings.
116
The mines not in work, with the exception of the
Bosario^ belong to the Hilario establishment, and are
more than 20 in number, which, from the general para-
lyzation of the enterprise, have been compelled to
suspend operations. Their lodes are wide and produc-
tive.
1. San Nicolas. — Lode a yard wide, visible on the
surface for a distance of 500 yards from east to west,
but little worked ; in argentiferous grey copper ore, rich
in silver and copper ; ley 206 ounces ; very hard to smelt,
being accompanied by compact black oxide of manga-
nese. The lode is only driven into for 20 yards by two
short adits on the vein at the bottom of the valley, which
is 7,008 feet about the sea level; but the mine itself is
situated low in an open ravine and easy of access for
carts.
2. San Ignacio. — Dry ores, with galena and chlorides
of silver ; ley from 74 to 148 ounces per ton, very abun-
dant ; there are 36 tons of ore dressed at surface ; lode two
feet in width, almost vertical, and visible on the surface
for nearly 1,000 yards. There are two adits and some
workings of little depth.
3. La Compania. — Lode a yard and a half wide, and
in some parts three yards ; composed of galena with sul-
phates and carbonates of lead ; very abundant, but of poor
ley for silver, holding on the average 24*2 ounces per
ton. The ores from this mine are used as a flux for the
reduction of dry ores from Tontal and elsewhere.
About 120 tons dressed on surface. There is a spacious
adit driven on the lode, and the mine is only worked
superficially.
4. Sampson. — On the same lode, in some parts 5 yards
wide, and very abundant in sulphates and carbonates ; of
117
the same ley as those of La Compania. About 30 tons
dressed on surface.
5. La Inglaterra. — On the San Nicolas lode, being
very wide, consisting of pure galena, of a ley of 29*6 to
44'4 ounces silver per ton. Though of little depth,
blende has been already reached.
6. Romeo. — On the lode of La Julieta^ a yard in
width, consisting of ferrugiu'cous ore ; ley only 37 ounces
per ton, but useful at the furnaces as a flux, owing to
the quantity of oxide of iron it contains; depth five
fathoms.
7. La Francia^ Copeton^ Dilmo, Gran 3fogul, La
Pandorga, San Pedro Nolasco^ cj-c. — ^The last named
mine has yielded some rich auriferous galenas, but is now
abandoned. All are more or less productive, and would
yield good returns if properly worked.
In common with all the other mining districts of the
Republic, Castaiio may be described as yet virgin, and
its hidden riches have not been explored as they ought.
On the Rio de Castaiio, close to the mines, a new
amalgamation establishment was being erected by Messrs.
Ramon, Gay and Co., consisting of a grinding mill, with
three tinas or vats for amalgamation. There are also
some dressing tables for the concentration of galenas
and cold ores, to be sold in that state to the smeltinir
works. Being in course of construction, only five work-
men were employed, and in two months from the date
of my visit (February) the owners assured me the works
would be in active operation. The capital invested is
about £350, and the mill will be capable of reducing
about 30 cwts. of ore in 24 hours.
Water and pasture are plentiful in this district, and
good roads can easily be made between the mines and
118
the various reduction works. The mines are themselves
situated at a considerable height in the mountains, but,
once the ores have been brought down into the ravines,
the remainder of the road is free of difficulty.
GOLD MININ-G DISTRICT OF GUALILAN". '
This celebrated gold mining district is far-famed and
renowned for the wonderful quantity of the precious
metal formerly extracted during the period of Spanish
colonial rule in South America. It was discovered by
a muleteer, named Juan Suarez, in the year 1751.
Returning from one of his frequent visits to Chili, he
lost a loaded pack mule in the neighbourhood, and, on
seeking for the animal, found it resting on the spot now
occupied by the Pique mine. To drive on the mule
more conveniently, this man took up several stones, and
placed them in his leathern apron, but was so struck
with the great weight of one in particular, that he
determined to keep it for further inspection. On his
arrival at San Juan he consulted with a friend, and they
discovered the stone to l^e impregnated with metallic
gold. They immediately sought out the place at
Gualilan, and soon enriched themselves before others
knew of the discovery. Soon, however, this became
known, and hundreds flocked to the spot, and, after a
superficial search, discovered many mines, which yielded
large quantities of gold, until the great drawbacks
to all mining enterprises in South America — water and
revolution — interrupted their prolific labours. The
war of independence came on and all was abandoned.
There are three lodes, but only two were worked.
These are from 6 to 60 feet in width, and occasionally,
when they join and are walled by el van courses, yield
marvellous quantities of gold. Their direction is nearly
119
north and south, and they have an underlie of 43" to
the west, and are visible On the surface for a length of
about 4,000 yards. The hills in which they are situated
are detached from the principal chain of the Tontal
range of which they are spurs, and are composed of
limestone. The veins are accompanied, and at parts
traversed by elvan courses, which, as I have said, improve
the yield of gold where they come in contact with the
lode. There are 14 mines in all (on the same veins),
which were worked with great energy for many years
after their discovery, until, at a depth of about 40
fathoms, more or less, they were inundated by copious
springs of water, and the lower works had to be sus-
pended.
The veinstuff extracted from the lodes is properly
silver ore, holding chlorides of this metal, but with other
combinations which render it extremely rich in metallic
gold. There are large deposits of arsenical iron pyrites,
holding a fair percentage of gold, but the former miners
of the country were unable to extract the whole amount,
and as it caused a considerable loss of mercury in the
amalgamation process followed, the greater part was left
in the mines, or thrown aside as useless. The quantity
of this refuse ore is immense, and may be estimated at
thousands of tons, intermingled with earth, stone, &c.,
but all of which holds gold in the proportion of not less
than an ounce per ton.
After literally gutting the veins on the surface, and
as far down as the water would permit, and leaving the
workings choked up, the mines were abandoned by the
original owners. Others followed, however, by whom
new works were established, and a vertical shaft sunk to
about 40 fathoms to drain the mines at their greatest
120
depth. But the means thus employed were entirely
inefficient, and the mines were successively abandoned
and renewed by new adventurers, who expended their
limited resources and capital without securing any re-
turn for their money.
Senor Don Vicente Oros is the last who has under-
taken the task, and, up to the present, contends against
a thousand difficulties and drawbacks, without having
succeeded in keeping the water effectually under.
During a few days in which he was enabled to keep
down the water level and to work at about four fathoms
below it in the main shaft he extracted 12 tons of ore
from an old level or gallery, the ley of which for gold
was 5 ounces to the ton ; but unfortunately the ropes of
the lift for hoisting out the water in buckets broke, and
one of the labourers was precipitated into the shaft and
killed. This and other drawbacks caused a suspension
of the works, while steps were being taken for the
erection of new appliances, more perfect than the former
ones. Seiior Oros employed four men and a foreman,
working with four horses and two large buckets, geared
on to a whim, and in this way 750 gallons of water per
hour were taken out; but this is of course inadequate,
and cannot keep down the water so as to admit of
working in the lower galleries.
One of these old mines, — La Misnata — not many years
ago, yielded ores holding 96 ounces of gold, and 4,933
ounces of silver to the ton.
My attention had for years been directed to this dis-
trict, having assayed its ores and obtained authentic
information regarding its produce in olden times, but my
time was too much occupied with the mines of Tontal
and Castafio, and the reduction works at Hilario, to per-
121
mit of my exploring it thoroughly. Within the last
few months, however, I have succeeded in forming a
limited company in England, with a capital of
£75,000, to work these mines, and at the time of my
visit, I found there an English staff of mining engineers,
with several European miners, engaged upon preparatory
works for developing their resources on a large scale.
According to the last advices these are already far ad-
vanced, and 14 claims have been rehabilitated by a single
adit, which will follow up the lodes from south to north.
An appropriate site had also been selected for the erection
of extensive reduction works, capable of grinding and
" beneficiating " 100 tons of ore in twenty-four hours.
The motive power for the whole will be a powerful steam
engine, by means of which the old mines will be drained
and the ore raised through a main shaft with the greatest
economy.
The importance of these works, in the hands of an
English company, can easily be understood ; for, in the
event of good returns being obtained (of which I have
every confidence), they would probably extend their
operations, and engage in new undertakings for the ex-
ploration and development of other gold fields of not
less importance which exist in many of the provinces of
the Republic.
It is for the National Government, therefore, to do all
in its power towards assisting and protecting the inte-
rests of the company.
LA IGLESIA.
Fourteen leagues to the north of Gualilan is La
Iglesia, a village of considerable importance for its
lucerne fields and other produce. Messrs. Fonseca
Brothers have erected reduction works there, based on
122
the same system as that in practice at Castano, but the
furnaces are of better construction.
This establishment had not been more than 30 days
in operation, and had produced 1,332 ounces of silver.
Its object is to reduce ore extracted from the mining
district of Salado, whose lodes, it is said, are a continu-
ation of those of Castaiio, although it is situate 30
leagues to the east.
The mining district of Salado was discovered in the
year 1844, and about 20 leagues to the north of Iglesia,
three mines are in work, or, more correctly, are tem-
porarily suspended, since no ore was being extracted,
owing (as I was told) to the want of blasting powder.
The lodes are very hard and firm, and not more than a
quarter of a yard in width, yielding in places orestuff
holding about 493 ounces to the ton; but the average
does not exceed 148 ounces. About 24 tons of ore of
the latter ley was in the ore yard. Some of the stones
show a considerable quantity of native silver, but these
are not frequently found.
Good fire clays exist near the reduction works, and of
which excellent fire bricks are made ; at a little distance
there is also a wide vein of oxide of iron, which serves
as a flux in reducing the galenas. Firewood and water
are both abundant.
The capital invested in these works does not amount
to more than £1,000. Fourteen persons were employed.
GOLD MINING DISTRICT OF " GUACHI."
At twelve leagues north of the town of Jachal, in the
hiffh rano;e of mountains to the west, is situate the cele-
brated mining district of Guachi. The road to this
place is almost intransitable either on foot or horseback ;
and it was only after much labour and danger that I
123
Avas able to ascend the cone-shaped mountain where
the mmes are, and which is 12,200 feet above the sea
level. The mountain is isolated, and stands in the
midst of a circular cordon of others also of great altitude
and frightfully steep and rugged. It is traversed in all
directions by veins of auriferous quartz, and horizontal
beds holding more or less gold.
The name of this mountain is an Indian word, Guachi^
signifying the mountain of gold ; and tracing thus the
origin of Gualilan, we find it also indicates the
existence of the precious metal, as it means the " Land
of gold." The prefix Gua in the Huarpe tongue signi-
fies gold, and wherever we find the name there are sure
to be old gold mines or placer washings, worked by the
aborigines, and, doubtless, still rich if modern appliances
were brought to bear upon them.
The mines in Guachi are very old and much worked,
and, according to tradition, a very large quantity of
gold has been taken thence.
The principal vein runs from N.N.W.toS.S.E., and in
some parts is 30 feet, and in others 60 feet in width, in-
cluding an enormous centre wall of quartz and elvanite,
which also contains more or less gold. The lode is
visible on the surface for a length of over 100 yards, but
the works are choked up in consequence of a great land-
slip which took place many years since. This large
vein is formed by the junction of two others — the
"Risco" and the ''Potro" — which in their turn are
traversed by veins containing arsenical iron pyrites,
almost at right angles ; the lode is in beneficio at the
points where these crossings take place.
From assays of orestuff taken from different parts I
found the general ley did not exceed one ounce to the ton,
124
Thousands of tons of ore undoubtedly exist in the old
subterranean workings, but the local difficulties present
almost insuperable obstacles to theu- profitable working.
In the first place, it would be impossible to get machi-
nery to the foot of the mountain in the present state of
the roads, and, in the second place, there is neither
wood nor water at hand to supply the requirements of
extensive operations in the mines, which are now almost
entirely abandoned. I only found four men, who were
employed in quarrying stones for the construction of
a grinding mill, about to be erected by Don Jose
Maria Suarez, with the intention of amalgamating the
picked ores from the old mines.
At the foot of the mountain water is found in con-
siderable abundance, but is highly charged with the
sulphates of copper and iron, and consequently almost
worthless for machinery, as the copper in solution would
destroy all the iron work with which it might come in
contact, and would soon destroy the wood as well;
neither is it potable.
In the narrow and short ravine at the foot of the
mountain are some placer washings of more than average
richness. Here the fiame earth and gravel is washed
year by year after the rains, with almost equally favour-
able results. This proves that the gold comes from
some surface veins above, being carried down by the
rains, and accumulates in the sands at the bottom of
the ravine.
The geological formation of the mountain is favourable
for gold, being micha-schist, gneiss, and syenite.
Hornblende predominates, with crystalized felspathic
rocks.
Potable water is obtained at a short distance from
125
the mines, but it is very limited in (jiiantity, and not of
the best description.
After the rains the poor people of the neighbourhood
wash the earth in the bottom of the ravine, and some-
times find small nuggets of gold, and from this and
other indications there would seem to be no doubt as to
the existence of a vein or auriferous deposit on the slope
of the adjacent Sierra, whence these pieces of the pre-
cious metal proceed.
Despite every effort to obtain information, I could
hear of no such deposit, nor discover whence so much
gold is annually derived.
I was not able to obtain any data as to the yearly
production of gold by the placer washings.
CARBONIFEROUS DEPOSITS AT GUACO.
Five leagues to the north-east from the town of
Jachal is a deposit or vein of coal (lignite) of conside-
rable importance. Its width is about four feet, and is
almost vertical ; it is found in a yellow secondary sand-
stone formation, at the foot of a series of calcareous hills,
isolated, and of recent formation and elevation. In these
limestone rocks, I found some fossil remains of ammo-
nites, belonging to the jurasic period, and in a very
perfect state, within a few yards of the coal vein.
The following are the results of an analysis of several
samples of the coal, whose specific gravity is 1"766 : —
Hygroscopic moisture 5.404 per cent.
Volatile combustible matter 27.266 ,,
Fixed carbon 38*934 „
Ash 28.396 ,,
100.000
The ash principally consists of silicates, only one third
126
part being soluble in hydrochloric acid, and the solution
contained iron, alumina, and lime.
This coal, I am of opinion, will be found in great
abundance, and of much better quality, further out in
the plains of Mogna. The vertical vem in question,
discovered on the surface, was no doubt accidentally up-
heaved by the elevation of the calcareous mountains in
the vicinity.
I will allude to this later on, when speaking of the
mines of La Huerta.
At a short distance from the carboniferous deposit,
and on the roadside from Jachal to Guaco, situated on
the bank of a stream which passes through the lime-
stone range already referred to, is a very important and
copious thermal spring of hydro-sulphuretted water.
Its temperature is about 80° Fah., and it is highly charged
with hydro-sulphuric acid gas, depositing sulphur and
sulphide of calcium on the neighbouring rocks. I be-
lieve this water to possess highly medicinal quali-
ties, more especially for cutaneous diseases, and if
once known and proper means of communication are
provided from the centres of population, it will doubt-
less be appreciated and frequented by thousands of in-
valids.
MINING DISTRICT OF LA HUERTA.
About forty leagues westward from the capital (San
Juan) are situated the mines of La Huerta, which were
discovered in the years 1860-61. They are being
worked with laudable perseverance and energy. The
mountains in which the metallic veins are situate are
high, rugged, and difficult of transit. Their geological
formation consists ofthe primary rocks, including gneiss,
syenite, and granite, with serpentine and mica-schist.
127
They form the termination of the range which branches
from the Cordillera of Guandacol, and not from those of
Famatina, as represented in existing maps of the coun-
try. By a palpable error, which has been confirmed by
the map of Dr. Martin de Moussy, La Huerta has been
placed north, ten degrees to the west of San Juan,
whereas it is actually west ten degrees north of that
town. During my tour of inspection through the min-
ing districts, I have had the opportunity of correcting
this and many other similar errors, which I will rectify
in a new and general map of the Republic I have
now in preparation, and which will be presented to the
National Government.
The mines which are most actively in work in the
district of La Huerta are as follows •—
That of Santo Domingo^ in the ravine, or quebrada
of the same name, is the oldest and most important in
the district, employing the largest number of hands, 25
in all, together with 30 mules and two muleteers.
There were eight workings in " heneficio^'' and ten in
" hroceo^^^ which were not yielding productive ore ; the
deepest is about 70 fathoms from the surface. The
main adit is pushed into the mountain for a distance of
275 yards eastwards, but was being worked very badly,
the incline of the floor being inward instead of outward.
Some yards from the internal extremity of the adit, its
course was altered, in order to follow the vein, which
was there turned northwards by a fault ; but this was a
mistake and the enterprise has been prejudiced seriously
thereby. Winzes were also commenced, some working
upwards and some downwards, but without either be-
nefit or economy. The lower ones touched water at
about 10 fathoms from floor of adit, ^vhich has paralysed
128
further operations until pumping apparatus be brought
to bear. It is a pity that a lode so abundant and rich
as this should be thus comparatively sacrificed. Every
effort should be made to effect communication with and
drain the old workings from the surface of the moun-
tain, smce they are, I am told, in rich beneficio.
Twenty-five fathoms have still to be driven before
reaching the nearest point to effect this, and this work
should be carried on before all others and without inter-
mission. The deepest workings below the main adit,
now in water, are in good beneficio, and it is cer-
tainly worth the trouble and expense to erect proper
pumping machinery to remove this obstacle, but this
should be directed by competent men, of which there is
a sad lack in the mine. There were no scientific instru-
ments in the mine, with the exception of a small pocket
compass, about an inch in diameter, intended more as an
ornamental pendant for a watch chain than for use in
works of such importance and magnitude. The capital
invested in the mine is about £21,000, and a single
" alcance " or bunch of rich ore, extracted in July of
last year, realised about £2,000. Surely a mine of this
class should have a competent engineer to direct the
necessary works, and the owners would then very soon
secure those profitable returns which they have hitherto
looked for in vain.
The actual produce is about 15 tons of ore per month,
holding not less than 518 ounces of silver per ton in
pure galena. About 30 tons of this class were on the
surface, and more than 300 tons of inferior ore had
been accumulated, holding from 111 to 148 ounces,
which might be utilized if properly dressed and concen-
trated. The existing machinery there is not, however,
129
sufficient for this purpose. There are two cast-iron
edge runners, well suited for grinding the ores, and with
these, and the round huddle, or percussion tables and
jigging machines, a fair profit might be made out of this
poor veinstuff. The ores extracted from the upx^er
workings (not yet in communication with the adit) are
galenas, with sulphides and antimonides of silver, while
specks and thin lamina of native silver are occasionally
observed. Two pieces of ore were recently taken out
(and which will be sent to the Cordoba exhibition),
weighing respectively 375 lbs. and 175 lbs., holding 970
ounces of silver to the ton.
The monthly cost or disbursements for work in the
mine are about £110.
The reduction works belonging to the owners of this
mine are not in operation and may be considered as
almost abandoned, the furnaces being in such a dilapi-
dated condition as to be useless for the treatment of ore
without complete renovation. There are about 150 tons
of slag on the ground, containing 25 per cent, of lead,
with 17*26 ounces of silver to the ton. The site is
good, but there is no probability of the re-establishment
of the works so long as Messrs. Klappenbach reduce
and purchase the ores extracted from the mine, — an
arrangement advantageous for both jDarties.
The Providencia and Petorca mines are situated
in the ravine of El Senor, and though not very produc-
tive, are worked to a profit owing to the high ley of
their ores. This, on the average, is 1233 '33 ounces of
silver to the ton Four men are employed.
The San Antonio mine is situated in the ravine of
" Los Tres Amigos," and is fairly productive in go od
ore, composed of galena, with some chlorides of silve r.
The average ley is 616*66 ounces to the ton.
130
The Bella Isaura mine is the property of Messrs.
■ Yanzi and Co., and is located in the ravine Argen-
tina. It is exceedingly prolific of ore, being upon the
junction of several lodes, which at some parts reach a
width of eight yards. It is very inadequately worked,
only three men and a foreman being employed. Never-
theless these are sufficient to extract from six to nine
tons of ore in the month, consisting of galena, with
carbonates and sulphates of lead, holding on the average
from 47 to 54 ounces of silver to the ton. About 120
tons were dressed on the surface, containing about 44
ounces to the ton.
The Mercedes mine belongs to the San Juan Min-
ing and Reduction Company, and is situated in the
ravine of San Pedro. The vein is visible for over
3,000 feet, and the whole is in beneficio; its width is a
yard and a half, but the ore, in pure galena, does not
exceed six inches, holding about 207 ounces of silver to
the ton. Formerly it was not worked very energetically,
only some three men having been employed, who raised
from three to six tons per month. At the date of my
visit, however, operations at this mine were carried on
upon a much more important scale, the following per-
sons being employed, viz. : 1 manager, 1 foreman, 1
blacksmith, 10 miners, 10 labourers, and 1 cook. There
were also seven mules. The water for domestic use is
from a well sunk in the ravine and is brackish. A
capital of about £1,000 has been a23propriated for the
completion of an adit, under the superintendence of
Mr. J. C. Rogers, an intelligent North- American, who
has had much experience as a miner in Mexico.
In this same ravine are some fine lodes of hematite
iron ore, from two to three metres in width, in which
pieces of silver ore have been found of the ley of 1,233
131
to 1,480 ounces to the ton. These lodes are visible on
the surface for about a leaofue.
The mine Dolores is located in the ravine of Los
Poronguitos ; it is a very good lode, consisting of pure
galena with sulphides of silver, and the average ley of
the ore is 202 ounces to the ton. Two miners were
employed in making a survey.
The Muy Escasa mine is located in the ravine of El
Quebrachito. Four men were employed; and from
three to six tons of ore were raised monthly, consisting
generally of sulphides and chlorides of silver, with a ley
of 183 ounces to the ton.
The Carlota mine is in the same ravine as the pre-
ceding; the class of ore is similar, and three miners
were employed.
The Reyes^ Baltazar^ and Oriente mines are situated
in the ravine of Baltazar; very few workmen were
employed, just sufficient in fact to keep them open.
The three mines are upon the same lode, the ores from
which hold about 98 ounces of silver to the ton. The
'vein is laid bare to a depth of 25 to 30 fathoms, and
is of a very promising character. On several occasions
stones have been found with particles of native silver.
These mines have been most irregularly worked and
destroyed on the surface by the pirquineros^ or erratic
miners.
The Blanca, La Paz, and Marsellesa mines are located
in the ravines of Rosarito and Baltazar. They abound
in galenas, with a ley of about 74 to 86 ounces of silver
to the ton. Very few men were employed, and do little
more than keep the mines open.
The Bosarito mine is in the ravine of the same name.
It produces from 15 to 18 tons of ore per month, princi-
132
pally galena, sulphides, and chlorides, with some native
silver. The average ley is 160 ounces to the ton. About
nine tons were on the surface. Twenty-three men were
employed. There is an adit from surface in communica-
tion Avith a shaft inclined at an angle of 40 degrees. This
mine has produced some specimens of ore very similar
to that extracted from the best mines of Chaiiarcillo
(Chili). The works at the time of my visit were in full
activity. In the lowest levels the lode had narrowed
almost to nothing, and the surrounding rock was so hard
as to make progress very slow indeed.
The Celestina and Parana mines are on the same vein ;
eight miners and two labourers are employed, and the
ores are very similar to those extracted from the pre-
ceding mine. There were 21 tons of ore on the surface,
holdino- about 197 ounces of silver to the ton.
The above are the principal mines, but there are
numerous others of less importance, but which show the
extension of the veins, their direction, and the quality
of their ores. It is calculated that there are 120 pirqui-
neros^ or erratic miners, in Los Marayes, and 100 more
about La Huerta and Santo Domingo.
COPPER ORES.
I have received several specimens of these from
veins existing in this district. Upon assaying, I have
found them to contain from 25 to 65 per cent, of copper.
In some, native copper Avas observable, but up to
the present the lodes have not been discovered,
or explored, the stones assayed having been only de-
tatched masses found in the ravines. This branch of
mining industry, when more facile means of transport
are provided, will give great impulse to the prosperity
of the province.
133
In the Cerro Morado, further to the west, the old
auriferous quartz veins are all degenerated and firm in
copper ores of good ley, which are certain to be utilized
later on.
There are many fine lodes of galena in the district as
yet unworked, because their ley is not high, but which
later on are also sure to be utilized ; therefore no doubt
as to the duration of the mines and analogous indus-
tries in La Huerta need be entertained.
COAL DEPOSITS.
The coal extracted near the Marayes is of good quality,
and the deposits, as far as I could judge, are of con-
siderable extent, covering a surface of many leagues.
Explorations have not been carried to a depth of more
than ten feet, owing to the influx of water and the want
of proper appliances for expelling it and sinking a deeper
shaft. Still, judging by what is actually visible, it is
not diflScult to infer how very important these deposits,
at present useless as a source of wealth, will, with the
lapse of time, eventually become.
I have said useless for the present, because few in the
country are competent to form an exact idea of their
real value and importance. Previous Governments have
either neglected or not had the desire or the power to
assist explorers in this field of national wealth, nor be-
stow upon it the attention it deserved. The Paraguayan
war, and other obstacles, have, moreover, interfered
with the action of the Government in fields of enter-
prise for whose development peace and tranquillity are
necessary. Ever since the year 1862, 1 have not ceased
to direct the attention of the National Government to
this branch of industry, which might if properly fostered
134
make the Argentine Republic become the England of
South America.
This is no idle illusion nor dream of the sanguine miner,
but a conclusion based on my own experience, and in
harmony with the results obtained in other South Ame-
rican countries. I am acquainted with the almost super-
human efforts of Mr. Wheelwright, our great pioneer of
progress in railways, how whilst engaged in inaugurating
steam navigation on the Pacific, he sought almost in
vain to make the Government and people of Chih under-
stand that their coal deposits in Lota and Coronel were
more valuable to them as a nation than the richest silver
mines in Capiapo. Eventually awakened to the truth,
our transandine neighbours have done everything in
their power to develop those coal fields ; and the result
is, that hundreds of thousands of tons are now annually
consumed in their smelting works, on their railways,
and in their steamers, and of a quality but very little
superior to that of Los Marayes in San Juan.
It has been generally taken for granted that our coal
deposits in the Argentine Republic were of insignificant
extent ; but this is erroneous, as the result of my explo-
rations will prove. I can confidently assert that coal
exists, not only in Los Marayes and La Huerta, but
certainly from Jachal to Los Llanos, and possibly as far
as the city of Cordoba itself. I am well acquainted with
the whole of the territory indicated ; I have traversed it
in various parts, and on each occasion my convictions
have been confirmed. On the slope of the Cordillera,
at five leagues from Jachal, as I have already stated in
speaking of those regions, I discovered coal (lignite) on
the surface, and (as shown by the analysis previously
inserted) of a very fair quality, especially when it is con-
135
sidered that the specimens analysed were only from the
surface. Afterwards, I proceeded to the Sierra of La
Huerta, northwards towards La Eioja, a distance
of 90 miles, where I found the geological formation to
be identical, thus confirming all the hopes and opinions
I had long entertained on the subject. In Los Marayes
the same geological formation (sandstone and shales) is
also observable, with its characteristic fossils, which are
the guiding stars to geologists in explorations of this nature.
From Marayes I crossed eastwards to the Sierra of Los
Llanos, a distance of 40 miles, afterwards throuo'h
Chepes, Salana, Ulapes, &c., and, as I had expected,
found there the same indications, the same fossils, and
the same geological formation. I have collected speci-
mens of all these for examination at the forthcomino-
Cordoba Exhibition, and which will prove to those who
understand it that true coal exists in the Argentine Re-
public.
It is, therefore, for the National Government to aid
in utilizing this important discovery, and not allow it to
rest in oblivion, as many others have been left for years.
We have boring apparatus, and the men necessary to
accomplish this great work — a work of infinite impor-
tance for the regeneration of the Republic.
The Central Argentine Railway to Cordoba will
shortly be finished and opened to the public, audit is to
be hoped that the line will be very soon extended to the
northern provinces. How important it would be if the
Government could ofi'er to the initiators of this grand
enterprise a newly-discovered coal field alongside the
iron track. And even supposing that coal is only to be
found at Chepes, in Los Llanos (where I am sure it
exists), this would be a sufficient inducement to make
136
a branch line of railway to those now uncultivated
wastes, thereby putting an end for ever to the domination
of the guacho and the unsettled habits of the rural
population ; such a course would render revolution al-
most impossible, and remedy those evils which, up to
the present, have so seriously retarded the progress and
development of those regions.
The consumption of this class of coal would be in-
credible, and a source of great profit to the Central
Argentine Railway Company. The latter is bound to
populate the immense territory conceded to it along the
whole length of its track. In many parts of this no fuel
exists even for the domestic requirements of the future
inhabitants ; while the cities of Cordoba, Rosario, and
even Buenos Ayres, with their gas works, their manufac-
tories, and their numerous steamers, would consume more
than the waggons could convey. The coal is well
adapted for those purposes, being what is called in
England "caking "or "binding" coal.
Its composition is as follows : —
Hygroscopic moisture 1.57 percent.
Volatile combustible matter 39-8o „
Fixed carbon 36.20 „
Ash 22.43 „
100.00
It should be stated that this specimen is almost from
the surface. I believe that coal of a better bituminous
class will be found at depth, and, at a still greater depth,
coal properly belonging to the secondary era, and per-
haps antracite. The ammonites found in Jachal lead me
tp conclude that such will be the case.
In addition to the sources of consumption indicated
above, there are others still more important for the
137
country. 1 have before referred to the immense lodes
of oxide of iron situate in the immediate neighbourhood
of Los Marayes. Almost inexhaustible quantities of
this ore exist in the Cerros of La Huerta, and if, at some
future time, iron smelting furnaces be erected there, it
seems almost impossible to exaggerate the importance of
the results which would follow.
It is out of my province to specify the advantages, or
enumerate the various industries to which the develop-
ment of our vast carboniferous and ferrugineous resour-
ces would give birth. But we have only to look to
England, and ask to what she owes her commercial
greatness, and maritime supremacy? The answer is
simply, — " To her iron and her coal."
REDUCTION" WORKS " EL ARGENTmO."
This estabHshment belongs to a Hmited company,
formed in 1868, by Messrs. Klappenbach, of Buenos
Ayres, for the working of mines and the reduction of
ores in San Juan. It is situated in the quebrada, or
valley of La Huerta, at a short distance from the mines,
and was in course of construction from 1865 to 1868.
It is now in full activity, and receives all the ores which
are extracted from the mines of the district. For their
reduction and treatment it has two reverberatory fur-
naces, five blast furnaces, and one refininof furnace,
capable of reducing from 2 J to SJtons of ore per diem.
The following statement, showing the ores received and
reduced up to the 1st of April, 1869, will furnish some
idea of its importance : — '
Ore Reduced. Ounces of Silver.
In 1865 (five months) 158,8391b containing 21157.022
» 1866 496,455 „ 47108.474
» 1867 636,489 „ 56094.590
» 1868 752,280 „ 77144.016
„ 1869 (three months) ...207,629 „ 19196.858
Total 2,246,6928) „ 220700.960
R
138
The following further statement shows the product in
bar silver : —
In 1865 (five months) ... 10700.4 ounces, value ^2651 o o
„ 1866 35342.4 » „ 8756 o o
„ 1867 45887-4 „ „ 11368 10 o
,, 1868 63455.0 „ „ 15720 16 8
„ 1869 15267.2 „ „ 3782 3 4
Stock, April T, 1869 39973.86
^^32,278 10 o
210626.26
Add for loss by vola- ) ^ ^
tilization. /••• '°°74.7o
Total 2 207 00.96
Seventy-nine persons were employed, at a cost of
£250 per month, not including the mines and agencies
of the company.
The labourers are paid from £1 13s. 4d. to £3 per
month, and firewood costs from lis. 8d. to 13s. 4d. for
about 2Jjtons weight.
Flour is 16s. 8d. to 20s. ; raisins, 13s. 4d. to 16s. 8d.;
maize, 10s. to 13s. 4d. ; and beef 20s. per cwt. The
daily rations of the labourers consist of one pound of
beef, one of flour, one of maize, and one of raisms.
The system of treatment and reduction of ores in prac-
tice is as follows : —
Fu'st operation, — Calcination. Each charge consists of
18 cwts., made up of 12 cwts. galena (Pb.S.) holding
60 per cent, lead and 93 ounces of silver to the ton;
6 cwts. " dry " ores, holding 15 per cent, lead and 186
ounces of silver to the ton. This operation lasts eight
hours, the ore being calcined at a very low heat until
the charge is desulphurised. It is then drawn from the
furnace, and allowed to cool before passing through the
second operation.
Second operation, — Slagging. The charge of calcined
ore, 18 cwts., now converted into oxides of the metal
189
present, with a little sulphate of lead, is thrown into an
ordinary reverberatory furnace, and fired sharply for
from four to six hours, until the whole mass is in a
thoroughly liquid state, when it is tapped by a door at
the back of the furnace ; the result consists of silicates
and oxides of lead, in which condition it is in readiness
for the next operation.
Third operation, — Reduction. This operation is
effected in vertical rectangular blast furnaces, measuring
1"" 60' in height from the tuyere to the charging door,
and 0"^ QO' broad, by 0"™ 90'^ in depth from breast to back,
being more or less equal in size to the furnaces used in
Viales, and formerly at Pontgibaud, Puy de Dome
(France). The mixture for this furnace consists of 77
per cent, of the slagged ores of the second operation,
holding 50 per cent, of lead and 123 ounces of silver to
the ton; oxide of iron is added in the proportion of 18
per cent., together with 5 per cent, of limestone. Of
this mixture about 2^ tons pass through a furnace in
the 24 hours, producing 9 cwts. of rich lead, holding
from 2i to 2^ per cent, of silver. A small proportion
of regulus and dross is also produced, and of course a
large proportion of rich slags.
Fourth operation, — Cupellation. The German or
Continental system (in contradistinction to the English
system) is that used at La Huerta. The furnace is
charged cold, with the lead in pigs, from the third
operation, and is gradually fired, until the charge
reaches a red heat. The fused mass is thus oxidised
and impurities begin to rise to the surface, i.e., copper,
zinc, iron, antimony arsenic, sulphur, &c., which sub-
stances are drawn off by a slit cut into the bottom of
the furnace, and form the abstrich of the Germans.
140
When all these impurities are removed, litharge pro-
per, or pure oxide of lead, soon begins to form on the
surface of the bath, and the temperature being increased
to a red-white heat by means of a bellows, true cupella-
tion commences. This operation continues, with the
addition of fresh lead in pigs from the third operation,
until the whole chars^e is worked off and oxidised, when
the impure silver remains in a circular plate on the
bottom of the furnace. When cool the plate is removed
to be further treated.
Fifth operation, — Refining. This consists in sub-
mitting the impure silver from last operation to cupella-
tion on a fine bone ash test, beaten into the bottom of
a circular refining furnace about 3 feet in diameter.
This absorbs nearly all the impurities — lead, iron, cop-
per, &c. — with which the silver was previously contami-
nated. The conclusion of this operation is known by
the quiescent aud bright surface — like that of a mirror —
presented by the liquid silver. This is then allowed to
cool, Avhen it is removed from the furnace, and is thus
sent to market without further refining.
The slags produced in the third stage are returned to
the furnace, either alone or with ore, as they generally
hold 25 per cent, of lead and 18-2 to 23-6 ounces of silver
to the ton. The lead in the slags exists almost entirely
as a silicate, and is reduced with oxide of iron and crude
limestone.
The abstrich and litharge, holding a small percentage
of silver, produced at the commencement and the ter-
mination of the fourth operation, are generally passed
through with slags and regulus in the third operation
in the blast furnace. The litharge proper is reduced
to metalHc lead on the Scotch hearth ; the lead thus
produced holds from 3 to 4 ounces of silver to the ton.
141
The fuel consumed in these different operations is as
follows : — In the first and second about 2 J tons of ore
are calcined and slagged in 24 hours, with two tons of
wood, or say 73 per cent, of fuel. In the third 1| tons
of slagged ore, or say 2^ tons including fluxes, are reduced
in 24 hours, with 6*75 cwts. of charcoal, or 15 per cent.,
and 6*75 cwts. of firewood, or other 15 per cent., making
altogether 30 per cent. In the fourth 2 J tons of wood
are consumed to cupel more or less 7 tons of lead, or 33
per cent, of fuel. In the fifth 1 cwt. of firewood is con-
sumed for every 740 ounces of silver. The duration of
the blast furnaces, i.e.^ of the parts exposed to the direct
action of the fire, and which are lined with fire-bricks, is
on the average 15 days. Their bottoms or hearths con-
sist of 1 part of lime, J of ground charcoal, and 2 J of
clay — all well mixed together, and tightly rammed.
The bottoms of the reverberatory or slagging furnaces
last from three to six months, and are composed of 1
part of lime and 1 of clay.
Four men work each blast furnace, two durino- the
day and two during the night ; and six men in all are
employed in attending the reverberatory furnaces, the
shifts being taken by two at a time, who are in turn
relieved by the others at intervals of eight hours.
The slags, even when smelted again and thrown aside,
always hold from 15 to 18 per cent, of lead, and about
three ounces of silver per ton.
The bottom of the cupelling furnace is composed of
4 parts of lime and 1 part of clay, well rammed in, little
by little, and allowed to set and dry thoroughly, in order
to avoid crackino^ and rising-.
The average ley of the ores reduced in the establish-
ment is about 23b ounces of silver to the ton, and 50 per
142
cent, of lead. It is calculated that 12 per cent, of lead
is volatilised and lost in the different operations, and 15
to 18 per cent, remains in the rejected slags; it is esti-
mated about 3 to 6 ounces of silver per ton are thus also
lost.
These details and data were furnished to me by the
agent of the company, and are exact as respects the
system in practice at the establishment.
The commercial results of the enterprise are, I have
been assured, of a very satisfactory character, as is
proved by the rapid extension of the works, both at the
mines and in the reduction establishment, notwithstand-
ing many local difficulties and drawbacks, the principal
of these being the want of motive power to give suffi-
cient blast to the furnaces, as the bellows at present in
use, moved by mules, are quite inadequate, and are
besides very inconstant, from the carelessness of the
labourers, more especially at night.
In reference to the roads and means of communication
in this province — a matter of vital consequence, not
only to the mining industry, but to the general com-
mercial prosperity of San Juan — I may state that few
or no roads exist between the mining districts, nor are
there any facilities for reaching the highways connecting
those parts of the Republic with the lower provinces.
Everything has to be carried on muleback, at exor-
bitant rates of freight ; but this last is not so serious a
drawback as the impossibility of transporting ponderous
machinery and implements to the mines and reduction
establishments. From this very cause many important
enterprises have already failed in San Juan, and this
will continue to be the case so long as there are no car-
riage roads to facilitate transit.
143
I have had personal experience in this sense, having
been compelled, in conveying machinery and tools to
the reduction works at Hilario, to make a temporary
road of 70 leagues, only transitable perhaps once or
twice by our own carts, and this by taking an immense
circuit to reach a point within a distance of 18 leagues
in a direct line from the capital.
The cost of carrying the machinery from San Juan,
exceeded that from England to San Juan. The large
sums thus invested in road-makino- and freig-hts might
have been applied with great advantage to the develop-
ment of mmes and of districts still unexplored, and
when a fixed sum alone is available for such operations,
it is a serious drawback to be obliged to expend so con-
siderable a portion in works leaving no immediate profit
to the miner, and which ought to be executed by the
government authorities.
It is therefore of cardinal importance to make a car-
riage road from San Juan to the valley of Barrial and
C alingasta, which would accommodate the traflic by the
road from Los Patos to Chili, and materially stimulate
mining industry in Tontal and its neighbourhood.
From Barrial and Calingasta the construction of a
road northwards to Castaiio would be easy and inexpen-
sive, and would accommodate the public traffic as far as
Iglesia and Jachal. On the other hand, there is no
difficulty in placing these points in contact with Us-
pallata and Mendoza, by making a road through the
extensive plains of Leoncito and Yalguaras. I
am informed that the National Government intends
making the highway already decreed through Los Patos
to the Chilian frontier ; and once this is done, the chief
expense will have been incurred, since the cost of the
144
others, between Tontal, Calingasta, Castano, Leoncito,
and Uspallata, will not much exceed £6,000, the total
distance being about 57 leagues, — that is, to join with
the road from Mendoza to Uspallata, recommended in
my report upon that province.
The roads from San Juan to the mining district of
La Huerta are rather better, and at least transitable,
but some repairs and alterations are needed to convert
them into good carriage roads. Now that the new road
from Cordoba is being made to Los Papagallos it is the
more to be regretted that the remaining part between
that point and San Juan should continue in so bad and
wretched a condition. This road was made by the
Government of the Province, to unite it with that of
Rioja, but, being ill constructed, it has not produced
the results expected. A bridge is required across the
Rio Bermejo, as well as many deviations from its actual
route, as much to avoid moving sandhills as to approach
water at reasonable distances along the track. A road
such as that from Rioja toLos Papagallos without water
is useless.
With regard to the new road from Cordoba to Los
Papagallos, I consider it my duty to offer here some
practical remarks, founded upon a personal examination
of its track.
From Chepes, in the Llanos, the projected road takes
a direct line in a south-westerly direction to Los
Papagallos, a place where only a small quantity of
water, is to be found, and that of a very bad
description. It passes over quicksands and through
part of the salt marshes. I would respectfully submit
to the National Government that this is a very undesi-
rable direction, that it will make the road very costly,
145
and that, after completion, it will be almost impossible
to maintain it in a transitable state owing to the
shifting sands. I would recommend that, from Chepes,
it should deviate a little to the north to within a
short distance of " Senor Queves," and thence proceed
in a direct line westwards until a junction is made with
the carriage highAvay coming from the north, i.e.^ from
Rioja to Los Papagallos. Then to follow the said high-
way southwards as far as Las Marayes (about four
leagues), and, instead of going on to Las Papagallos, to
take a south-westerly course, rounding the Sierra de las
Marayes, and proceeding until the present road from
San Juan is reached.
This road would have the followino- advantao;es :
1. It would avoid the shifting sands, salt marshes,
and places having neither water nor pasture.
2. It would pass over firm ground, through good
pasture lands, and places fairly populated and watered.
3. It would place the public traffic in more immediate
contact with the mines and reduction works of La
Huerta, passing through Las Marayes, possessing good
water, and houses where refreshment might be had;
and, above all, it would pass close to the precise spot
where the coal deposit exists.
The circuit involved in adopting this route, as com-
pared to the surveyed one, would not, I believe, on the
whole exceed four leagues, and most important advan-
tages would be gained equally by the public and Seiior
Rojo, the contractor.
Messrs. IvJappenbach have already made about three
leagues of carriao-e road from their establishment to-
wards Las Marayes, and it would be very advisable to
accord them a small subvention to continue it up to the
146
latter point, as such a means of communication would
immensely facilitate their traffic with the mines and
the city of San Juan.*
* Since writing the above I am glad to say that my advice to the Go-
vernment has been followed, and the alterations recommended ordered to
be carried out, so that many of the disadvantages complained of exist no
longer. The Provincial Government has also paid the Anglo-Argentine
Company for some 28 leagues of carriage road made to their mines of
San Juan. This is an instalment of a high road to the Castano and
Tontal districts.
147
PEOVINCE OE LA RIOJA.
GENERAL PHYSICAL ASPECT, DESCRIPTION OF SOIL,
CLIMATE, &c.
The province of Rioja is situated to the south of that
of Catamarca, and to the north of San Juan, upon the
easterly watershed of the great Cordillera of the Andes,
in the mean between 28° 30' south lat., and 67 30'
and 71° west long. (Paris), embracing a superficies or
area of 3,500 square leagues. To the west it touches
Chili by the crest of the Andes ; to the north it joins
with Catamarca ; to the east it is separated from Cordoba
by a line which crosses the middle of the basin of the Sa-
linas; to the south-east it touches San Luis, likewise
by the Salinas and the series of pools which border them ;
to the south it joins with San Juan by the desert and
by a line which intersects the Andes from south-east to
north-west, between 30° and 31° lat.
The general aspect is that of an immense arid plain,
extending to the foot of the Andes, and composed of
sandy clay, white on the surface from salt, which abounds
in the basin of the great Salinas, between the central
ranges and the Cordilleras. This plain is a desert {tra-
148
vesia), almost without water, covered by mimosa of
moderate heiizlit, with stunted arbustive and saline plants.
In its midst to the south-east, which may be described
as the dry bed of a former sea, runs an isolated mass of
granitic rocks, comprising three parallel ranges of vari-
ous heights. This is part of the Sierra of Los Llanos,
partially wooded like the plain around its base, and
which constitutes a system quite distinct, not only in
orography, but also in Argentine ethnology. The vari-
ous cordons of the Andes generally run from north
to south ; they enclose long valleys, of which the principal
is that of Famatina, and at their final eastern ramifica-
tions have some streams and fertile gorges, celebrated
for their rich agricultural products. Where water fails
the province is a desert ; wherever irrigation is possible
an exuberant fertility covers the soil with a splendid
vegetation. Some mountain gorges, watered by torrents,
nourish some beautiful arborescent species.
One single river of some importance, but not navigable,
waters a small part of the province of Rioja. This is the
Vermejo, which, rising m the frozen plateaux of the Andes
and among the eternal snows of the Bonete, flows
through the valley of the Jague, enlarged by the torrents
from the Valle Hermoso and those from the mountains
which border the valley of Vinchina, and continuing
its course towards the south, receives the surplus waters
from the valley of Jachal, and is lost in the sandy plains
bordering the lagoons of Guanacache, towards 32° S. lat.
The volume of water which flows in this river is con-
siderable during the summer, when storms are prevalent
in the Cordillera, but is greatly reduced in winter and
spring. The other watercourses in the province are
unfortunately few in number, and very quickly absorbed
149
by irrigation of the soil and for domestic use. The
greater part of the mountains eastwards of Rioja, such as
the chain of Velasco and the Llanos, belong to the gneiss
and granitic formation; they are more prolific in springs
than rivers, which, I need scarcely say, are exceedingly
valuable for cattle.
All the orographic systems of Rioja, except that of
the Sierra de los Llanos, belong to that of the Andes.
We find first, in commencing at the west, the great
plateau of the Cordillera, at a mean altitude of 4,000
metres, and its buttresses, which are also very elevated,
and which constitute the Sierras del Jague, Famatina,
and, lastly, those of Velasco or of Rioja, the most
easterly of all. This latter, towards the north, almost
joins, by a transverse cordon, the Sierra de Famatina and
the chains which are lost in the southern border, in the
long travesia of Copocabana at Machigasta and the
great Salinas of Belem and of Andalgala. The Sierra
de Mazan, to the north of the preceding, forms a little
system in itself, which undulates into the chain of Am-
bato, but is partially separated from it by the gorge or
ravine of La Cebila. The ramifications of the Andes,
or secondary chains, are generally directed from north
to south; those of Velasco, Famatina, and Jague
are bound to the mass of the Andes by a sort of transverse
knot between the villages Angulos and Las Campanas,
where rises the Cerro de Paiman and its dependencies.
The Sierra de la Rioja stands up as a wall, support-
ing an elongated plateau, of which the altitude is about
3,000 metres ; that of Famatina is considerably the highest,
which attains and surpasses even some of those of the
Cordillera ; its Nevado reaches nearly 6,200 metres, and
El Espino, Bayo, &c., nearly as much; the Cerro Negro
150
IS 4,500. The valleys enclosed by these chams are of
considerable altitude ; those of Jague and of Guandacol
attain nearly 3,000 metres; that of Yinchina, 2,500;
that of Famatina, 1,200; this last, the largest and most
extensive of all, terminates by losing itself towards the
south, on the plains of Los Llanos.
The Sierra of this name (Los Llanos) rises, as I have
already said, as an isolated oval range, assuming a form
resembling an " S " in the midst of an immense saline basin,
and is of very recent elevation. It is composed of three
cordons, which are designated respectively Costa Alta,
Costa del Medio, and Costa Baja. Its altitude is not con-
siderable,— about 3 to 400 metres at most. Its length
is 31 leagues; its breadth 3 to 6. The surrounding
plains are deserts, the soil being a dry sandy clay, and
water is seldom found. Where it is possible, the
natives dig wells, from which they obtain brackish
water, but to which the people and animals easily become
habituated.
The little valleys and ravines of the Sierra are fairly
supplied with rivulets and some stunted trees. The
cattle, bred in large numbers, feed there, as much on
the leaves as on the coarse grass about.
The principal mass of the Cordillera is porphyric,
its buttresses sandstone, limestone, clay-slate, and con-
glomerates, as the Famatina range; that of Yelasco,
with its dependencies, belong to the stratified rocks, as
gneiss, quartz, mica-schist, granite, &c. ThatofMazan
is principally limestone. The formation of Los Llanos
is of the same nature as that of Velasco.
The soil of the valleys of Rioja is composed, first, of
a stratum of rounded flints and small boulders from the
neighbouring mountains, and of which the depth is un-
151
known; then a deposit more or less thick of argillaceous
saline earth, as if all these valleys had formed the bottom
of a great inland sea. This soil is much deeper as the
valley stretches away from the foot of the mountains.
On the plain, the argillaceous soil is very dry and singu-
larly light, and rises in thick clouds of dust with the
least wind, and which eventually becomes whirlwinds,
assuming the shape of vast columns of considerable
height. In the environs of the Sierra de Velasco and of
its dependencies the soil is granitic, which retains mois-
ture and is thus of a remarkably fertile nature when
irrigated ; the argillaceous and salt plains even become
productive and fertile when it is possible to irrigate
them. The digging of numerous wells with troughs,
and the sinking of artesian wells, would do much to
change the aspect of the deserts of Rioja. Few
provinces are richer in gold, silver, nickel, iron, cobalt,
rock crystal, marbles, steatites, &c. Salts of soda, chlo-
rides, carbonates, nitrates, &c., are in abundance. By
evaporation, in some parts, a residuum is obtained, which
could be and is efficiently employed in the manufacture
of gunpowder.
Earthquakes there are similar to those of the neigh-
bouring provinces, but have never caused much destruc-
tion. That of 1849 may be cited, which was accom-
panied with great subterranean noise.
The climate is similar to that of Catamarca (of which
later on). It scarcely ever freezes in the plain; from
November to June the heat is very intense. The rains
fall from December to March only. The autumn, winter,
and spring are dry. The clearness of the sky is constant
and bad weather is rare. In this province the winter
is magnificent, from the purity of the atmosphere, the
152
absence of wind, and the cool freshness of the ah*. In
the valleys, however, of Guandacol and of Famatina
there are short but sharp frosts. Snow sometimes
covers the mountains, but does not remain long; the
Nevado only retains its eternal snowy mantle, and often
from its summit descend the refreshing winds so agree-
able in the valleys.
The salubrity of the climate is perfect ; the province
has no special malady, except the goitre in some valleys,
especially that of Famatina. Sometimes erruptive fevers
are epidemic.
The nature of the soil restricts vegetation to arborescent
mimosa on the plains, to the jume {lycium salsum) on
the salines, which become vigorous in the moist gorges ;
there the quebracho and algarrobo attain a good height.
A fine acacia, called visco^ furnishes wood for joiners'
work ; it is very close grained and magnificently veined,
and could be exported with advantage. Among the
mimosas, which grow in abundance, some species give a
kind of gum similar to Arabic. As in the adjacent pro-
vince of Catamarca, the vegetation depends on the
moisture, natural or artificial, of the soil. The arid
plains of the travesia have some immense forests, but
sparse in trees, which are stunted and thorny, and to
penetrate which it is necessary to wear leather garments,
or shields to protect horse and rider from the thorns
and prickly bushes which cover the ground. These
woods are the continuation of the interminable forest,
which covers the interior Argentine plain, for the whole
length of the Andes, from the borders of the Rio Negro,
in Patagonia, to the valley of Catamarca, for a distance
of ten degrees in latitude.
Wherever irrigation is possible, the soil of Rioja is
153
extremely fertile, and the seasons so regular that the
harvests are certam. The agricultural products are of
superior quality. Throughout the Argentine Confede-
ration there is not better wheat nor richer wine. The
olive attains colossal dimensions, and yields excellent
fruit; the peach, orange, and all fruit trees succeed there
admirably. The cotton, cultivated only for local use,
is of first quality for its length and strength of fibre.
The town of Rioja is widely and justly reputed for its
oranges ; the valley of Famatina for its wines ; also the
slopes of the Arauco produce very good fruits, especially
olives. The stony soil, and the little depth of the irri-
gated land of the valleys, seem to give agricultural pro-
ductions of a rare superiority over those obtained from
deeper and richer soil. The farmer of Rioja is indus-
trious and methodical, but by no means enterprising,
possessing only a certain amount of ability, which is
proved by the excellence of his harvests. Unfortunately,
from the scarcity of running water, agriculture is limi-
ted. This could be increased by a careful examination
of the gorges of the mountains, and gathering there, in
reservoirs, the waters during the rainy season; but the
Riojanos do not possess the energy, activity, or capital
to undertake such works.
Commerce is limited and confined to the neighbour-
ing provinces and to Chili. Wines are sent to C^ta-
marca, to Tucuman, and to Cordoba, and some even to
the coast. It is unfortunate that these, from high freights,
cannot reach the ports of the Parana, where they would
advantageously replace the dry wines and foreign alco-
holic imports from Europe, many of which are very infe-
rior to those of Rioja. Cordoba takes the surplus flour,
oranges, and dried fruits, the remaining produce is lor
154
local consumption. Cattle are exported to Chili by the
valleys of Copiapo and tluasco; also cheese and oranges.
The most valuable article of export is the precious metals
from Famatina, and in exchange they receive European
manufactures. The central point of commercial trans-
actions is in the valley of this name, and the most popu-
lous of the country.
In consequence of the political troubles which agitated
Eioja half a century ago, industrial pursuits are not very
advanced, and few good workmen are found there ; it is
necessary to introduce improvements in the method of ag-
riculture and increase the variety of its productions. The
cochineal cactus abounds everywhere, and the insect, if
carefully cultivated, would become an article of profi-
table export. It would be quite possible to cultivate
the mulberry tree and the silkworm, but, unfortunately,
the cultivators of the soil are no innovators, and the
immense difficulty attending the introduction of any
new industry, although promising great advantages, is
well known and justly dreaded.
The isolation of this province from the others by the
salt and sandy deserts, and by the travesias which sur-
round it, limits their principal communication with Rioja
to troops of pack-mules, the rearing and maintenance of
which is a source of prolific industry. The communi-
cation with the coast is via the great Salinas, and the
Sierra of Cordoba, by a route of 116 leagues, of which
GO are through a desert which has only a few scattered
estancias or farm houses. At 30 leagues from the capital
this road turns the northern points of the Sierra de
los Llanos, and quits the Salinas, which, at this place,
are 14 leagues broad, and enters the Sierra de Cordoba by
Pichana and Soto ; the route through the Sierra de Cor-
155
doba is being made practicable for carriages, as already
stated in speaking of San Juan. The intercourse with
Santiago del Estero is rare; but communication is
effected by passing the long travesias, where there is
here and there a farm-house near some wells or pools of
brackish water, and where hospitahty never fails. The
distance is 90 leao;ues. The communication with San
Luis is by the south point of the Sierra de los Llanos,
the hamlet of Las Liebres, and the quebrada of Santa
Barbara; the distance by this route is 180 leagues.
The roads most frequented are those of San Juan and
Catamarca, which is the route followed by the national
courier, carrying the mails of the west, and who rides
from Mendoza to Tucuman. The route to Chili is by
the valley of Vinchina, the Cordillera of Leoncito, or
of the Pefion, and the Portezuelo Come-Caballo. From
Famatina to Capiapo the journey may be made in six
days, but generally occupies eight days. The Riojanos are
excellent muleteers, and well accustomed to the Andine
tracks, as well as those over the salt and arid plains.
To these hardy children of the desert the longest and
most difficult journeys seem a pleasure. All the routes
on the plain could be made practicable for carriages if
there were a sufficient number of wells, or watering
places, with post-houses, established near them ; the water
could also be used for irrigating the land, and enclosures
for lucerne could be maintained. Artesian wells in the
district of the Llanos would change the entire aspect of
the country and aid powerfully in its civilization. The
diligence, carrying the national mails, now runs weekly
from Cordoba to Rioja, via the Horqueta and Don Diego,
where a branch line goes to Catamarca; hence passen-
gers, mails, and specie may reach any of these points
156
per coach in comparative comfort to former times when
only sturdy mules were available.
The province of Rioja is now divided into seven
departments, — the Capital, to the east of the Cerro
de Valasco; Los Llanos, Costa- Arriba and Costa-Baja
in the Sierra of this name; Costa de Arauco, to the
northern point of the Sierra de Velasco, adjacent to
Catamarca ; Famatina, in the long valley of this name ;
Vinchina, between the Sierra of Famatina and the Andes ;
lastly, Guandacol, in the high valleys of the Andes, ad-
joining the province of San Juan.
The department of the capital comprises the town
of Rioja {Ciw lad de Todos los Santos de la Niieva Rioja)
and its confines, which are very extended. The town of
Rioja is situated in nearly 29° 20' south lat., 69*^ 30' west
long. (Paris), and at an altitude of 510 metres on the
plains, which commence at the foot of the Sierra de
Velasco, and run into the quebrada of Sanagasta,
whence rises a clear stream, which waters it and creates
an oasis, full of shade and freshness, in the midst of the
desert.
Founded in 1591, by Don Juan Ramirez de Velasco,
Governor of Tucuman, it was primitively divided into
81 squares or blocks, viz., nine for the town, and then the
necessary reserves for the convents of the Jesuits, Fran-
ciscans, Dominicans, the Fathers of Mercy, the parish
churches, and those designated for cultivation.
Rioja was for a long time stationary in advancement ;
at the commencement of the 18th century it was no
longer a village ; at the beginning of the present century
it assumed a degree of importance of which it has since
been deprived. It is easy to see, from its public edifices
and houses, &c., that it has been at one time much more
157
prosperous than now. In fact, the place is surrounded
with the remains 6f fine buildings, but they now
need repair sadly; if the parish church, the convent of
San Francisco and Santo-Domingo, the church of San
Nicolas, maintained by the family of Gomez, are in good
repair, the convent and church of Merced are in ruins.
The mint, formerly in the college of the Jesuits, is now
abandoned and closed. Although the buildings show a
general decay, the vegetation is magnificent ; the orange
trees fill the air with fragrant perfumes ; in the courts
and gardens the fruit is exquisite, and fruit trees gene-
rally prosper in the granitic soil of this oasis, where
irrigating canals from the river maintain a fertilising
influence and freshness.
Commerce is very restricted here, and reduced almost
to the export of wine and oranges to Cordoba in exchange
for articles of European manufacture, imported via
Buenos Ayres.
The future prosperity of Rioja must consist principally
in the progress of agriculture and its mineral wealth,
for its situation prevents it from becoming a depot of
commercial importance. It could be so only to some
extent, after the opening of the railway from Rosario to
Cordoba, and prolongation to Tucuman. It will be es-
sential to maintain the present track for the muleteers
on the road to Famatina, by the Sierra, in good repair,
for this department is the richest and most important in
the province. On the other side the communication
between the provinces of Cuyo and those of the north
can be made only by the town of Rioja or by Famatina,
and this circumstance, when the country is better
peopled, will make it a point necessary to be frequented
by all the traffic from the north, south, and west.
i58
The en\'irons of Rioja are very fertile, where the
waters of the river extend, but without this it is not
productive, and unhappily this charming stream of water
is not abundant enough, after having watered a square
league of land, to extend furthsr its fertilising influence.
The quebrada, which leads to Sanogasta, a village of the
Indians in the mountain, is well wooded, but would
be more valuable if cleared and subjected to the
cultivation of wheat and the vine. This o-oro;e leads
over the plateau of the Sierra de Velasco, where the only
occupation possible for the inhabitants is the breeding
of cattle.
The plaui which surrounds the capital is covered
with thinly scattered trees, and here the farmers are
obliged to form reservoirs for water for their thirsty
cattle. But through all the length of the Sierra there
are natural springs and small streams, which supply the
wants of small hamlets, as Tutcun and San Cristoval,
and likewise numerous estancias, such as Ampiza,
Estanque, Carrisal, Amilgancho, &c., which are the
chief places of the district. The principal occupa-
tion of the inhabitants of those parts is the care of their
flocks, but they cultivate, in small quantities, wheat,
maize, vines, and some fruit trees.
The department of Famatina is very extensive, as it
nearly touches the boundary of Catamarca to the north,
and that of San Juan to the south. It is situate in
the valley of this name, bounded on the Avest by the
Sierra Nevado, and on the east by that of Velasco;
the transverse rano;e of Paiman, which unites these two
chains to the north, encloses the two little valleys and
villages of Los Campanas and Angulo. The first, at an
altitude of 1,600 metres, is remarkable for some schistose
159
stones, which, when struck with a hard substance, pro-
duce a sound resemblino; a bell. This canton is hio^hlv
reputed for its agriculture, and especially for its excellent
apples ; it also produces very good wine. The latter is
a miserable hamlet, and the land badly cultivated.
These two valleys are separated from that of Famatina
by the Portezaelo de la Aguadita, of which the altitude
is, perhaps, 2,800 metres. At the Carrisal, lower down
there is a church, then comes the extensive village of Fa-
matina, which is not less than three leagues long, being
a series of houses and fields, which finish only when the
water so necessary for human existence is completely
absorbed. There is also a modern church in this villao-e,
erected by the people themselves, under the direction
of the cure. All this canton is populous and well cul-
tivated, having abundant streams of water from the
Nevado and other mountains to the west. It is 15
leagues from the church to the mines, following the
stream westwards ; the path is very bad, but could easily
be improved. Between the village of Famatina and
that of Chilecito (or Villa Argentina), the chief town
in the department, extends a stony desert of six leagues,
covered with a stunted vegetation, consisting of jarilla,
re tamo, &c.
The cultivation is similar to Chilecito, under the bene-
ficial influence of irrio-ation. The altitude of the vilWe
O O
is 1,100 metres. The olive, orange, and pomegranate
produce well. A crowd of small and pretty hamlets en-
rich the environs of Chilecito; those are Sarmientos,
San Nicolas, Anguinan, the ancient parish (for Chilecito
is a modern creation), nnd Malligasta, a large village
with a church and schools.
A little chain of granitic hills divides the valley of
160
Famatina from the Portezuelo de la Aguadita up to
Konogasta. The eastern portion is arid ; nevertheless
the two thriving villages of Pituil and of Tinimuqui are
situate there. The scarcity of water in these eastern
districts is much to be regretted, as the stratum of vege-
table earth is very thick, and the soil would be exceed-
ingly fertile, as the seasons are very regular. The same
remark applies to the lower valley, which forms an im-
mense travesia to the east, after leaving the villages of
Nonoffasta and Bichi o^asta. The former is renowned for
its excellent wines, which are also produced in the latter,
but in less abundance; they make here " patay," or
bread from the fruit of the carob tree, of which there
are an immense number around this spot and about
the valley, here six leagues broad. At Bichigasta opens
the valley of Guachin, which is well watered, and where
also touches the route from Vinchina, via Sanogasta,
which, crossing the chain of Famatina, leads to the val-
leys approaching the Andes.
Silver is exported from this district partly to Chili and
partly to Cordoba. The town of Chilecito, or Villa Ar-
gentina, is superior in activity and commercial enterprise
to the capital itself, being the most important depot in the
province, and the true centre of business with the interior.
Population, 1869.— City, 5,647 ; country, 43,512 ;
total, 48,959.
MINERAL RESOURCES, &c.
The working of mines in this province dates from a
period anterior to the independence of the Republic, a
number of Spaniards having been settled in the rich
territory of La Rioja for many years prior to the out-
break of the Hispano-American struggle. They did not,
however, develop the mineral resources of the province
161
as their real importance deserved. About the year
1824, when an extraordinary rage for mining operations
prevailed, works were inaugurated for the development
of the mineral wealth of the Sierra de Famatina, but,
unfortunately, this enthusiasm was not of long duration.
The operations of a German Company, which sent its
engineers and miners to Famatina, were paralysed by
the political disturbances then so rife in the country,
and the assassination of its agent and director, by order of
the rebel chief Quirogo,^formed the climax of its extinc-
tion.
The workings commenced by them, which were of
considerable importance, are at present almost worth-
less, choked up as they are with debris and filled with
water.
At a subsequent period, when the country was in
the enjoyment of a short interval of tranquillity, nume-
rous miners from Chili and Peru, as well as a few
natives, carried on important works, resulting in the
production of a large quantity of bar silver, but, on
the recurrence of revolutions and political disturbances,
these were in their turn compelled to abandon their
labours.
Mining is now much neglected there, and very few
mines are in active work ; but of late there is a ten-
dency to re-organise enterprises amongst the few exist-
ing capitalists, and to develope the immense mineral
wealth still hidden away in the celebrated Cerros Negro
and Mejicano of Famatina.
I must classify the mines of Famatina as the richest
in the Republic, and its ores as holding the largest per-
centage of silver. The lodes, it is true, are not so wide as
those found in other places, but, from theii' great number
162
and extent, I am convinced that Famatinais not surpassed
for abundance of ore by any other mineral district in the
country. The ley of its ores and their composition
are of the most promising character, and afford sub-
stantial grounds for believing that rich results will re-
ward operations at greater depth. Nevertheless, as is
the case in all human affairs, there are drawbacks and
difficulties which can only be surmounted by large
capital, perseverance, energy, and especially mining
skill.
The roads leading to Cerro Negro, in their present
state, are quite intransitable, and it was with great labour
I managed to reach the mines, both from the roughness
of the ground and the height at which some of them are
situated, — 13,000 feet above the level of the sea.
There is absolutely neither wood nor other fuel in
the vicinity, and this has to be conveyed from distant
ravines at considerable cost. There is plenty of pas-
ture and water, but the cold, even during the sum-
mer, and the pima, or rarefaction of the atmosphere
owing to the great elevation, are most serious obstacles
and almost insuperable for persons not accustomed to
such altitudes. The miners of those regions alone can
endure the rigours of nature at these great heights, which
upon them appear to have no effect whatever.
From January to March the rainfall in Famatina is
very heavy, causing the miners to suspend their labours,
and descend (those of the Cerro Negro) to the town. They
then generally pick and classify the ores extracted dur-
ing the rest of the year, and the interval of the rainy
season is occupied in grinding and reducing them. The
means employed for this purpose are the crude systems
of " Patio " and " Repaso " (so well known in Mexico),
163
entailing the loss of a great part of the silver, and of
nearly the whole of the mercury used for its extraction.
To this, and the system of beneficio in practice in
Famatina, I will refer later on in its proper place.
The mining district of Famatina may be divided into
two sections, that of Cerro Negro (Black Mountain), and
that of Mejicana (the Mexican).
The mines of Cerro Neo-ro are scattered about at short
distances, m rugged and lofty mountains, covering about
three leagues in circumference, and are only accessible
by narrow defiles and overhanging precipices, more re-
sembling guanaco or deer tracks than ordinary roads.
There are some exceedingly dangerous declivities and
ascents, at places presenting abysses of more than 1,000
feet in perpendicular depth. It needs a strong nerve and
firm step on the part of both man and mule to pass
these points either on foot or mounted. How must it
be, then, with heavy loads of ore or provisions for the
mines? Before operations on a commensurate scale
can be inaguarated it would be necessary to spend about
£2,000, to provide the district with roads transitable by
pack mules, and as for carriage roads I consider their
construction, except in some parts, almost impracti-
cable.
AURIFEROUS DISTRICT.
This is situated about seven leas^ues from the town of
Famatina (Chilecito), in the Cerro Negro, at 10,250 feet
above the sea level. There is a total absence of fire-
n-ood, but abundance of water and pasture. It consists
of auriferous lodes, the principal not exceeding three
in number, much worked out and exhausted. Their
deepest workings are about 30 fathoms in vertical depth,
and are fall of water and debris. The lodes vary in
164
width from half-a-yard to a yard ; and almost all of them
consist of arsenical iron pyrites, holding a considerable
quantity of gold, which cannot, however, be extracted
by the crude systems of amalgamation practised in those
regions.
The black oxide of manganese and iron abounds,
and 1 found considerable quantities layiiig -about on all
sides. A sample of these ores, tal^en without selection,
gave a ley of six ounces of gold to the ton, a yield which
would make the extraction and reduction of the ore
very profitable ; but, owing to the difficulties of trans-
port, the result of any enterprise in this direction would
be extremely problematical from a commercial point of
view. The greater part of the veins are very narrow,
and their working on a large scale would not be suffici-
ently if at all remunerative.
SILVER MIJS'ES OF CERRO NEGRO.
Almost without a single exception, all the celebrated
silver mines are now under water or choked up with
debris, and are irregularly worked and exhausted on
the surface. It is impossible to enter or inspect them
internally; and I could, therefore, only examine the
surface and take cognizance of the remains of their
former greatness and wealth. From the thousands of
tons of desmontes^ or refuse orestufF, which surround
them, together with the numerous openings, adits, and
shafts which are observable, it is reasonable to believe
that at one time they must have been of great richness
and importance. In their present state, however, they
are worthless, and could only be rendered of commercial
value by constructing adits or employing machinery to
remove the water. The form of the hills, and their
165
immense altitude, are favourable to draining off the
water by means of adits, and which would probably cut
the veins at an enormous depth, at once proving their
richness and extent. But the driving of such adits
would demand the expenditure of large sums of money
before beneficial results could be obtained; and as neither
the necessary capital nor skill exists in Famatina, there
is no hope of this being carried out, unless indeed by the
aid of foreign capital and energy. Nevertheless, the
district is so extensive, and so extraordinarily metallife-
rous, that erratic miners (pirquineros), working upon
the surface, which is traversed at every angle and in
every possible direction by hundreds of virgin lodes,
extract ore of such richness that the annual product
from this source alone is not less than 59,200 ounces,
representing an approximate value of about £16,000.
The only mining works which I found in the Cerro
Negro were those of Senor Uladislao Gordillo, who fol-
lowed up a narrow lode of very rich ore — almost semi-
bar silver — but at a depth of only 5 J fathoms it ceased
to be productive and water invaded the workings.
Energetic efforts were being made to remove the latter
by means of leathern bags, but without effect, as the
locality is unfavourable from the continuous and copious
rains falling at that season of the year. Only four men
were employed.
Oxide of iron is found in wonderful abundance in the
Cerro Negro, and a single lode — the " San Andres" — is
visible for upwards of 2,000 yards, having a width of
six feet, and consisting of almost pure hematite with not
less than 70 per cent, of iron. If, in the future, the
industry of iron smelting should be established in this
country, the deposits of Cerro Negro are destined to be-
166
come of first importance and to be uf the greatest
interest and value.
Passing from the Cerro Negro to Mejicana, the mining
district of La Caldera is reached, in which there are
only two mining establishments — one belonging to Senor
Don Carlos Angel and the other to Serior D. Francisco
Bascunan. The first is situated upon a lode of nine
inches in width, yielding ore of an average ley of not less
than 1,223 ounces to the ton. Kich masses of native
silver are frequently extracted. This mine belonged
to Senor Cabrera, and was sold to Senor Angel a few
days previous to my visit for about £670.
Bascunan's mine, La Esperanza^ is on a narrow vein
from two to three inches in width, but yielding very
rich ore, almost semi-bar silver. From this vein, with
my own hands, I broke off a piece of ore 10 inches
square by two thick, holding so much native silver that
the stone could hardly be broken without a chisel.
The ley of a general sample does not, however, exceed
370 ounces to the ton. Nine men were employed, and
the lowest workings not more than 15 fathoms in ver-
tical depth.
MINING DISTRICT OF LA MEJICANA.
From Caldera, I proceeded to the Cerro de la Mejica-
na, which is at the foot of the Nevado de Famatina,
whose height, according to Naranjo, is 20,680 feet above
the level of the sea. The snow on its summit is perpe-
tual, and the mines, which are situated around and upon
its base, are also completely covered with snow during
intervals in the winter. The hiohest mine is at an eleva-
tion of 16,532 feet, and has in its time been exceedingly
rich, yielding large quantities of semi-bar silver. It was
167
sold to Senor Don Rafael Fraguiero for about £4,000 ;
but, subsequently, chiefly from want of good manage-
ment and the falling in of the roof, it ceased to be pro-
ductive. This mine is called La Espina^ and was
abandoned at the tinie of my visit.
From its greater altitude and different formation, the
Cerro de la Mejicana is not, as respects water, in the
same disadvantageous position as the Cerro Negro ; it
is dr}'- in the lowest workings of its mines, none of which,
however, are of greater vertical depth than 25 fathoms,
and cannot, therefore, be described as other than su-
perficial. The summer rains never interfere with the
mines, some of which I found in active operation.
The Rlncon de la Mejicana mine was formerly worked
for gold. It was choked up with earth, but has been
recently opened by Don Carlos Angel. The vein had
not yet been cut in beneficio when I visited the mine.
The Verdiona mine, which was also renowned for its
richness, is now choked up with debris, and has been
abandoned for many years. I was unable to enter the
galleries or workings, for when mines have been aban-
doned a few years in La Mejicana their entrances are
filled up with snow and sand from the surface, forming
a frozen mass for 10 to 12 j^ards down, and of such hard-
ness that it cannot be broken without blasting. As a
consequence, mines are soon choked up and their en-
trances completely obstructed.
There is a large quantity of ore on the surface, prin-
cipally sulpho-arsenides of iron, from which I took a
sample, yielding about 46 ounces of silver (with gold)
per ton ; there were also traces of copper, but none of
nickel, which these ores were believed to contain.
The Conipania mine, next after the Verdiona^ belongs
168
to Don Vicente Gomez, and was in active operation.
There were 13 men employed, and about six tons of
ore were dressed on the surface, the second class holding
209 ounces of silver and about three-quarters of an
ounce of gold to the ton. The first class ore gives 1,529
ounces of silver and 1 J ounces of gold to the ton. The
vein is the same as that on which the Verdiona mine is
situated, and, being in active work, I had the opportunity
of inspecting the lowest levels and seeing the lode in
depth. It varies greatly in width, from J to 1 J yards ;
it contains a large proportion of arsenical iron pyrites,
with a poor ley for silver and gold. The lode, never-
theless, promises well at greater depth, and a marked
improvement is observable in it from the surface to
the lowest levels. These are not, however, over 20
fathoms in vertical depth.
There is a large quantity of poor ores on the sur-
face, holding a fair percentage of copper and some
gold, which, perhaps, might be profitably reduced in
suitable furnaces, and produce copper regulus holding
gold and silver, if mixed with ores having a good ley of
these metals.
The Upulungo mine is contiguous to the Campania,
and belongs to Don Ricardo V aldez. This mine is said
to be very rich, but its mouth being choked up with debris
and snow, I was unable to explore it internally. The
owner of the Compania had commenced a lawsuit
against V aldez for ha^ang penetrated from a lower level
in his mine into the vein of the Compania, where ores
holding a very large percentage of silver and gold were
extracted. The mine had not been worked for over a
year.
The Urquiza mine is situated further south, and
169
belongs to Don Ignacio Moreno. Five men were em-
ployed ; the vein is very productive, about two yards in
width, consisting of semi- warm ores (chlorides with sul-
pho-antimonides) holding an average ley of about 98
ounces of silver to the ton.
The Chilena mine is situated in the Cerro del Tigre,
at a short distance from the Urquiza, and belongs to
the same proprietor. Four men were employed, work-
ing on the surface in an open cutting. The lode is
productive, being two yards in width, and the ley of the
ores varies from 49 to 74 ounces of silver to the ton.
There are five other veins or mines in La Mejicana,
all of which are out of work and so choked up with earth
as to prevent any internal exploration. Their import-
ance is manifest from superficial appearances, and they
are almost identical with those of La Cow.pania. With-
out exception, they have all been worked upon the sur-
face only, and none of them carried deep enough to
prove their ultimate richness. The late Don Panta-
leon Garcia inagurated the only work calculated to
solve the problem, Le.^ an adit to cut all the veins of
La Mejicana on a level with the bottom of the ravine.
This is a very important but ill-directed undertaking.
The mouth of the adit is below, in the ravine, at a
distance of about 100 yards from the Compania mine,
and at a vertical depth of 80 to 90 yards from the sur-
face of the latter. It is ten feet high by sLx in width,
but badly constructed, the main wooden props hav-
ing already broken and given way owing to the great
weight of the superincumbent earth and stones. Not
more than 23 yards now remain open, the total length
of the adit being about 50 yards. The expenditure
on this enterprise was about £8,500, subscribed by
170
an association, but the work done does not represent a
higher sum than £2,500.
I do not consider the direction of this adit to be the
true or best one for cutting all the veins of La Mejicana,
but at the length of 100 yards, inwards, its course
might be altered, taking two angles, one to the left and
another to the right, by which means many gold and
silver veins would be cut ; for, at a short distance lower
down in the ravine, are found old gold mines of good
ley when formerly worked. These are now choked
with earth and water, bat the principal lodes go into
and bury themselves in La Mejicana, and it is there-
fore very probable that they would be cut by the adit.
About five leagues lower down in the ravine are some
old placer washings, but they are now without commer-
cial value, unless worked on a large scale, as is done in
California, that is to say, washing 300 tons a day.
The cost of firewood in this district is £1 9s. per ton
(20 cwt. ) ; beef, IJd. per lb. ; maize, 10s. to 16s. 8d. per
fanega (300 lb.) ; dry figs, Jd. per lb ; nuts, |d. per lb. ;
and the freight charge on provisions from the town to
the mines 3s. 4d. per mule load of 380 lbs.
REDUCTION ESTABLISHMENTS.
In Famatina there are at present three amalgamation
works in full activity, and two in preparation with two
others stopped; for copper smelting, one; for lead,
one.
The first establishment nearest the town is La
Compahia^ and belongs to Messrs. Carlos Angel and
Francisco Alvarez. It is situated about one mile
from the \dllage of Famatina, to the W.X.W., on the
road to the Cerro Negro. The ores are amalgamated
171
by the new system of Kronske, recently introduced
from Copiapo (Chili) by a young Chilian associate of the
proprietors. It consists of four large barrels, capable
of reducing nine tons of ore in 24 hours, and a vat for
washing ; the motive power for the whole being a vertical
overshot water-wheel 12 feet in diameter and 5 feet
breast. The system is simple and efficacious. The
process of reduction only lasts from four to six hours,
and the ley of silver and gold held by the ore is almost
entirely extracted.
The great advantage of this system is the reduction
by it of " cold " ores, or those whose ley previously could
only be extracted by means of smelting. As the details
of the process were communicated to me under reserve,
I am precluded from entering into particulars, and limit
myself to stating that, with the use of mercury, sulphu-
ric acid, sulphate of copper, salt, zinc, lead, and metallic
copper, assisted by steam, the ley of the ore is extracted ;
that is to say, when the operation is well managed and
the class of ore is properly determined by analysis.
When, however, these essential particulars are disre-
garded the results are of a very negative character.
In such cases, the mercury flours, and being thus de-
composed is altogether lost. At the beginning many
impediments were encountered at " Za Compania "
from this cause, as the young Chilian, before referred
to, who had charge of the machinery, did not possess
the necessary knowledge for the analyzation of ores, and
was ignorant of the treatment to which the different
classes should be subjected.
As the machinery had been erected a very short time
previous to my visit, only a few tons of tailings had been
beneficiated. These are found in large quantities on
172
the spot, which had formerly been the site of an old re-
duction works on the South American system, or the
direct amalgamation of "warm" ores. These tailings,
(which are at least 1,800 tons) hold about 35 ounces of
silver to the ton. In the experiments tried upon a few
tons, about 518 ounces of fine silver had been extracted,
and, judging by these results, this enterprise should prove
most lucrative. The tailings only cost about 10s. per
ton. The scarcity of labour, and especially of skilled
workmen, renders it very difficult to carry out metal-
lurgical operations requiring such delicacy and precision
in their manipulation.
Firewood abounds in the vicinity, and costs 6s. 8d.
per perch of 16 cubic yards. Water and pasture are
abundant. The freight of the ore from mines to the
establishment is about 23s. per ton.
The capital invested up to the date of my visit was
about £2,000, but £1,000 more would be required to
complete the establishment, and place it in a position to
work with profit.
The Durazno establishment, belonging to Don Ula-
dislao Gordillo, is situated about three leagues further
westward, on the same stream as the "Comj)afiia," and
on the road to the Cerro Negro. This is the oldest re-
ducing works in Famatina, but operations there were
almost suspended at the time of my visit, as only a little
ore, extracted by the owner from his mines, was being
treated. It consists of a well-mounted Chilian mill or
edge-rumier of granite, and two barrels, the latter almost
totally unserviceable. In these, attempts were being
made to extract silver by using sulphate of copper in
solution, similar to the Compaiiia, but without eff'ect.
The site is admirably adapted for works on a large
173
scale as it possesses sufficient water for machinery equal
to 50-horse power; abundance of firewood and pasture
also exists.
There are about 1,500 tons of old tailings lying here,
and the remains of the old patio^ or Mexican system of
amalgamation, are plainly discernable. This system was
used in former years, by the first miners, but is now
almost becoming: obsolete. From the mines the car-
riage of ores to this place is 17s. per ton, and the dis-
tance from Cerro Negro is about seven leagues, or a
day's journey for loaded pack mules.
Two other establishments exist on the same stream,
called respectively the Candelaria^ where a Chilian mill
forms the only machinery erected, and the San Rafael ;
both are in a state of complete dilapidation, and almost
abandoned as respects metalurgical operations.
A Frenchman, however, was about to erect some new
machinery at San Rafael.
About six leagues north from the village of Chilecito,
are situated the following works :
The Corrales belonging to Don Jose Barros Ca-
sales, located close by the road descending from La
Mejicana^ on an abundant stream of water, and distant
seven leagues from the mines. Its machinery consists
of four barrels, each capable of holding 3 cwts. of ore,
and one Chilian mill, all driven by two water-wheels.
There were about 390 tons of tailings lying about in
heaps, holding about 24 ounces of silver to the ton.
Some ores were being treated, but as they contained a
large proportion of sulpho-antimonide of silver, the re-
sults were not satisfactory. The mercury was floured,
sickened, and consequently lost. I was assured that
the loss of this reagent was equal to 700 per cent, or
174
for every 740 ounces of silver extracted, about 5,180
ounces of mercury were lost.
Four men were employed, and the system in practice
was the old one of treating the ore by simple amalgama-
tion, without calcination or the use of reagents. A
German, Mr. Theodore Schroder, had rented the works,
in partnership with a countryman of his recently from
Copiapo, Mr. Charles Silverbach, a practical man, ap-
parently well acquainted with the new Kronske sys-
tem of amalgamation. I believe their efforts will prove
successful and profitable results be obtained. Barros
Casales had invested about £1,150 in the construc-
tion of the works.
The Escaleras reducing establishment is on the same
road, a league lower down the stream ; it belongs to
Messrs. Soage Hermanos, and is at present rented to
Don Ignacio Moreno, and consists of a Chilian grinding
mill and four barrels, each capable of working off 3 cwts.
of ore at a charge.
The system in practice here differs from those followed
in the other establishments, inasmuch as the " cold "
ores are calcined with salt in a reverberatory furnace,
thus chlorinising a great part of the silver, and convert-
ing it into a state fitted for amalgamation without the
loss of so large a quantity of mercury ; in these works the
loss does not exceed 100 per cent. But even this serious
disadvantage could be obviated by mixing the ores with
iron or copper pyrites, and calcming them carefully on
the Freyberg system. I explained this to Seiior Moreno,
who, more intelligent than his neighbours, proposed
making experiments, and it is to be hoped his efforts in
this direction will prove successful. The works of this
gentleman are the best arranged and managed of any in
175
Famatina. In the year 1868, he extracted about 3,700
ounces of silver, and from January to March, 1869, he
had obtained 740 ounces. It is about three leagues
distant from the Villa de Famatina. Eight men are
employed, and the capital invested is about £1,166, in-
cluding mines and reduction works. About 13 J tons
of ore were in the ore yard, dressed, holding 100 ounces,
and about 150 tons of tailings, holding 30 ounces to the
ton.
The great loss of mercury sustained in the reduction
works in Famatina, is the chief cause of their non-suc-
cess. This article costs there about 6s. 8d. per lb., and
if we take into account the quantity of silver produced
annually, and the proportion which is wasted or irre-
trievably lost, together with the average loss of 400
per cent, of mercury, it will be seen that the total is a
very serious and important figure to their debit.
I have been enabled to ascertain, from data collected
amongst the traders who purchase bar-silver from
" pirquineros " and reduction works in the district, that
the annual quantity is not less than 59,200 ounces.
Taking the loss on this at 40 per cent, and 400 per cent,
of mercury, the total would represent 23,680 ounces of
silver, whose value there would be about £6,500, and
16,000 lbs., or a further £5,400, in mercury, all of which
is sacrificed to ignorance and carelessness.
COPPER SMELTING WORKS OF VALDEZ & ALVARADO.
These are located in the village of Famatina, and con-
sist of a reverberatory furnace for smelting argentiferous
copper ores and forming regulus. The furnace is 14
feet long by 7 wide, inside measurement, and its stack
is 14 feet in height. It is badly constructed of refrac-
176
tory silicious sandstone, not at all suitable for copper
furnaces.
The works had only been three months in operation,
and had produced 100 tons of regulus with 10.30 per
cent, of copper, 0.62 per cent, of silver, and 0.003 per
cent, of gold. These figures show that the reduction
process had not been properly directed, and that the
percentage of copper is too low to leave a profit on the
exportation of the regulus. A remittance sent to
Europe, I was informed by Sefior Alvarado, only
realized £2 1 per ton, a price totally inadequate to cover
even the cost of carriage, &c. The ores are exceedingly
ferrugineous, and highly charged with sulphur, arsenic,
and antimony. The greater part of these substances
ought to be removed by repeated calcination, and the
oxidised residuum, smelted with the addition of silica
(sand or quartz), to get rid of the excess of iron present,
forming a silicate thereof, and producing copper regu-
lus of a high ley, and with a much larger percentage
of silver and gold.
Instead of doing this, oxide of iron, in the proportion
of 25 per cent., is added to the charge, which of course
combines with the sulphur, arsenic, and antimony already
existing in excess in the ores, and forming a ferrugineous
regulus of the latter, thereby reduces the ley for copper
and the precious metals.
The following ores were in stock, viz., 75 tons oftail-
ino-s, holding 24 ounces to the ton ; 60 tons, holding 60
ounces of silver to the ton ; about 48 tons of regulus,
holding 25 ounces of silver to the ton, with a trace of
gold.
Owing to litigation amongst the partners, the works
were paralysed at the time of my visit.
177'
REDUCTION" OF ARGENTIFEROUS LEAD ORES.
The works of Lancel Marozovski and Co., constructed
for the reduction of plumbiferous ores, are located seven
leagues to the south of the town of Famatina. They
consist of a reverberatory furnace, a blast furnace and
one for refining, identical with those of La Huerta,
in San Juan. Unfortunately this enterprise was unsuc-
cessful for want of proper ores, i.e.^ galena, or sulphates
or carbonates of lead, and in consequence failure ensued
before reduction operations had properly commenced.
They are now stopped and abandoned. Their cost was
£2,300. Firewood and water are abundant. Firebricks
of a very refractory and superior description had been
manufactured of clay found in the neighbourhood.
The greater part of the silver extracted in Famatina
owes its origin to the pirquineros — poor erratic
miners — who go to the Sierra with their saddle-bags
full of provisions, and, so long as these last, work upon
the surface of the numerous virgin veins and others
already discovered. When they have filled their bags
with ores of a high ley — at times semi-bar silver — they
immediately descend to their ranchos^ or mud dwellings,
where, assisted by their wives and children, they grind
those fragments of ore between two stones after the
fashion of the Indians. The ore is then calcined in
earthen pots with salt, and, when in fit state for amal-
gamation, is removed, to be thrown upon the '''"patio ^'
or circular enclosure on the floor, paved with flat stones.
Water and sulphate of copper {magistral) being added,
the mass is trodden under foot and mixed and stirred
incessantly for several days, in contact with mercury,
until the "beneficio" is known to be complete and the
silver is all taken up in the amalgam. The mass is then
178
washed in large iron pots, and the particles of mer-
cury collected carefully and strained through a canvas
cloth. The silver amalgam remains, and the mercury
which passes through the cloth serves for subsequent
use. The pella^ or amalgam, is afterwards burned in
-the fire, until the silver remains pure and white, in
which process almost the wholo of the mercury is lost,
the proportion being as six to one.
About 80 pirquineros were engaged in these primitive
operations, and between them and the reduction works
already referred to about 59,200 ounces of silver are
produced annually, the value of which may be estimated
at £16,000.
The celebrated nickel mine — La Solitaria — discovered
by the brothers Erdmann (Germans), in the year 1845,
is situated in the district of Buichina, and in the ravine
of Jague.
These gentlemen came from Copiap6, where they had
metallurgical and mming establishments, but had only
been working the nickel lode for a few months when
they were called upon to appear before the then
Governor of Rioja, who informed them that he had
received instructions and commands from the tyrant
Rosas, prohibiting foreigners working mines in the
country, and peremptorily ordered them to leave the
Republic within a specified time.
Messrs. Erdmann had therefore no other course open
to them but to sell the mme, which they did for £1,000,
and went back to Chili. Learning some years after-
wards (when Rosas no longer governed) that the mine
was abandoned, they returned to find it full of water and
the lode gutted on the surface. Nevertheless, with
considerable perseverance and energy, they succeeded
179
in removing the water sufficiently to reach the lower
levels, but there the vein was found less than a foot in
width, and, from the quantity of water still present and
coming into the mme, the enterprise could not be pro-
fitably followed up. The mine was consequently
abandoned by them a second time, and is now full of
water.
During the few months this mine was worked by
Messrs. Erdmann, (in the beginning) they extracted ores
to the value of £8,000. The ore is an arsenide, holding
36 per cent, of nickel, which is increased to 60 per cent,
by calcination. Notwithstanding careful search having
been made in all directions for new beneficio on the
surface of the lode, no indications of ore have been dis-
covered. The lode on the surface, and to a depth of 15
fathoms, was a yard m width, in pure ore, but it is now
regarded as having been a bunch confined to one spot,
since they have not been able to find more in any other
direction. It was generally believed that the Fama-
tina ores of the Cerro Mejicana contained nickel in large
quantities, but not even traces have been found in the
numerous samples examined, whether by myself, or
Seiior Schickendantz, the metallurgical chemist of
Mr. Lafone's establishment in Pilciao. I am not
surprised that such a belief should be prevalent
amongst the miners, since it is easy to be misled and
deceived by the cupriferous arsenides of iron of Fama-
tina. This illusion, however, is speedily dispelled when
the ore is submitted to the test of re-agents in the
laboratory.
With respect to carboniferous deposits in this province,
I refer the reader to my remarks on this subject in re-
porting on the Province San Juan, reiterating my firm
180
conviction that vast coal fields exist both in Los Llanos
and the Valley of Binchina. Possessing, as we do, such
immense deposits of iron ore, in addition to these exten-
sive carboniferous beds, we may reasonably entertain
hopes that, with the lapse of time and the continuance
of peace, these two powerful elements of civilization and
progress will at length be utilized, to the great aggran-
disement and advantage of the Republic.
As already stated, the roads in the mineral district of
Famatina are almost intransitable, and a heavy expendi-
ture would be necessary to render them convenient and
safe. About £1,500 would be required to make the
road from Chilecito to Cerro Negro practicable for
loaded mules, avoiding the beds of the rivers and torrents,
which are rough and stony, to traverse the slopes of the
Sierra. Roads could be made on both sides, but at
some places it would be necessary to blast through rock,
and many deviations and curves would be necessary. The
distance from the town of Chilecito to the works of
Durazno is three leagues, and a carriage road could
easily be made ; but from the latter point to the gold
mines of Santo Domingo, about four leagues, it would
be comparatively impracticable to do more than con-
struct a path for loaded mules.
From Famatina to the Sierra of La Mejicana^no great
difficulties are presented, but it would nevertheless in-
volve an outlay of about £5,000 to make roads available
for carriage traffic. A path for loaded mules, however,
could be formed at a cost of £2,000, the distance by
Escaleras being ten leagues more or less. There is
another and more direct route, by traversing an elevated
ridge in front of Carrisal, and descending by Las Cuevas
to form a junction with the Escaleras road through the
181
ravine. The cost would be the same, but the distance
would be three leagues less.
It would be desirable to make a track for loaded
mules between the mineral district of Cerro Negro and
that of La Mejicana ; but the road between those points
will alwaj^s be very steep, rugged, and exceedingly diffi-
cult of transit. In parts it rises to a height of 14,000
feet, and falls again to 10,000 feet ; this being of repeated
occurrence, in crossing the various intervening ranges.
The cost of a road thus would be about £1,000, and
the distance three leagues.
Besides in the mineral districts, the necessity of roads
is very much felt to unite Famatina with the province
of San Juan, starting from Jachal, and passing by Guaco,
Paso de Lamar, and Los Burros, more particularly in-
cluding that from Mu'anda and the ravine to Safiogasta.
The actual road between the places last mentioned is in
so dangerous a state, and the traffic over it so great,
that, in the interests of the public, its repair and recon-
struction should be at once undertaken. The total
distance between Jachal and Famatina does not pass 40
leagues, and an excellent road could be made for about
£33 per league.
Another important road would be one from Famatina
to connect with that from Cordoba and San Juan.
This road would be comparatively level, there being no
hills nor obstacles of any kind, with the exception of
clearing off the wood, and avoiding a few moving sand-
hills. It would have to follow the actual road from
Famatina to Rioja, as far as the Sierra of Velasco,
continuing along the slope of the latter up to the south-
ern extremity, where it should double the point and join
the road from Rioja to Papagallos. At this junction
182
there is no water, which would have to be provided by
the construction of a reservoir. Thence it should
proceed E.S.E. to reach the road between Soto and the
reservoir of Los Tellos, on the Llanos. The contractor
for the construction of the road from Rioja to Papagallos,
Don Pedro Gordillo, oiFers to make this road, of sixteen
yards in width, stubbing out the tree roots to a yard in
depth, and with 13 necessary reservoirs for water, to-
gether with post huts, for the sum of £6,250.
The agricultural and vinicultural productions of Fa-
matina are of considerable importance. The estimated
population of the department is 8,000 inhabitants, and
these produce annually 500 tons of flour, worth £10
per ton ; 9000 fanegas of maize, worth 10s. per fanega
(300 lbs.). The grape grown at Famatina is of a very
superior class, producing not less than 1,200,000 bottles
of wine yearly, which sells there at Is. 8d. per bottle ;
but there is not consumption for the whole, and, as at
Mendoza, a great portion is manufactured into aguar-
diente, or brandy. This produce alone, it will be
seen, represents a large sum (£25,000), which, added
to the flour and maize, make a total value of nearly
£32,000.
The valley of Nonogasta is exceedingly fertile and
well populated, with extensive vineyards and orchards,
lucerne, and a few tobacco plantations.
Water and firewood are abundant, and every facility
(save labourers), exists for the rapid development of
mining industry in the department. The climate is
very temperate in summer, and not rigorous in the win-
ter. Famatma was formerly the scene of frequent poli-
tical revolutions, but it will be seen by this report that
the chiei Caudillos, or leaders in these fratricidal struggles
183
— Don Carlos Angel and Don Francisco Alvarez — have
devoted themselves to mining and reduction establish-
ments, gathering around them the most notorious
gauchos, whom, by their example, they have converted
into peaceable and well-conducted members of society,
laborious and industrious in habits, and who have now
no thought of abandoning their tranquil and civilizing
labours for the din of battle and precarious existence
of the pampa.
184
PROVINCE OF CATAMARCA.
GENERAL PHYSICAL ASPECT, DESCRIPTION OF SOIL,
CLIMATE, &c.
The Province of Catamarca is situated to the south of
that of Salta, to the west of Tucuman and Santiago del
Estero, and to the north of Rioja. The boundary by
Chili is the westerly summit of the plateau of the Andes.
It is thus between 26° 20' and 28° 30' south lat., and
68° to 7 1'' longitude west (Paris), and covers a super-
ficial area of about 3,800 square leagues. Its limits to
the north, and with the province of Salta, are a line
traversing the heights of the Nevados of Calchaqui, the
Sierra Medanosa, that of Chango Real, opening to the
north of the valley Laguna Blanca, touching Paso de San
Francisco, where it meets to the north-west the frontier of
Bolivia, and on the west that of Chili. To the south it is
separated from the province of Rioja by another line,
which, parting from the Chilian frontier to Cerro Pulido,
traverses the plateau of the Andes by Laguna Brava,
descends the Estanzuela, the range of Machaco, the
southern border of the valleys of the Tamberia and of
Cienega Redonda; then following the crest of the moun-
tains of Tinogasta, passes by the undulations of Cerrillos,
185
the great travesia of Los Colorados, of Alpasinclie, and
of Machigasta, up to the gorge of Chumbicha, and con-
tinuing towards E.S.E. until it touches the great basin
of the SaHnas, near 29'^ 40' lat. and 67^^ long.
To the north-east its frontier with Tucuman is marked
by the Baiiado of the Abra de Santa Maria, the summit
of the Sierra of the lower range of the Aconquija and
Rio de Guacra, or San Francisco. Finally, to the east,
it joins Santiago del Estero by a line marked by estancias,
and running at the eastern base of the Ancaste range, in
more or less longitude 67^, or up to the Rio Albigasta.
These lines of demarcation are those which are gene-
rally recognised, but frequently questions arise as to
their accuracy on the part of the authorities of the pro-
vinces of Tucuman and Santiago del Estero, who assert
that Catamarca holds unlawfully a portion of their terri-
tory, and that its limits are not quite those assigned to
it by the Royal decree of 16th August, 1679, and the
survey ordered by the municipality of Catamarca on the
11th February, 1684. On the other hand, the people of
Catamarca claim that the occupation of the Canton of
Colalao by Tucuman is unjust; also the occupation by
Santiago del Estero of a part of the mountain range of
Ancaste. The only arbiter in questions of limits in the
provinces is the Supreme Congress, and the question is
now being discussed with the view to a final settlement.
The province of Catamarca presents a varied and
picturesque aspect. The northern part is covered by
mountains, Avhich enclose narrow gorges and some ex-
tensive valleys, amongst the latter the Campo de los
Pozuelos, at the western base of the Aconquija range.
Nearing the Cordillera, the valleys are extensive and
comparatively level; towards the south-east a great
186
plain, called the Salinas de Belem and Andalgala, unites
with the great basin of this name, which separates the
Andine system from the central range of the plains.
The great valley of the capital, situated between the
Sierras of Ambato and Ancaste, joins with the latter.
The mountain ranges which elevate their peaks in this
province gradually merge into this great plain. Their
summits, although very dry, are covered with a rich
vegetation, and the numerous streams which descend
from them, charged with silt and various salts, fertilize
prodigiously the soil around their base.
In consequence of their sterility, the plains are very
sparsely inhabited, the population being concentrated in
the interior valleys and along the base of the Sierra del
Alto and Ancaste.
This province does not possess any river of impor-
tance, its supply of water being confined to numerous
small streams and mountain torrents, the whole of which
is absorbed by irrigation and domestic use. The princi-
pal watercourse is that of Santa Maria, then comes
Paclin and Piedra Blanca, which form the Rio del Valle
and water the valley of the capital. The torrents of
the Cordillera are inconsiderable. Only one lake exists
in the province, that of Laguna Blanca, situated in a
hio'h valley of the Cordillera ; in continuation is found
the Laguna Colorada, which cannot be classified as a
lake. Both, however, are salt. They are bordered by
extensive valleys of a sandy clay nature, and the few
inhabitants now existing there assert that in former times
the district was thickly populated.
The orographic system of Catamarca is rather com-
plicated. It consists of two grand sections, one depend-
ing- on the Cordillera of the Andes and the other on
o
187
the range of Aconquija. The two sections are united
by the transverse range of Atajo. From Aconquija,
towards the S.S.E., stretch away the long chains of the
Alto and Ancaste ; the latter, which is only a prolonga-
tion of the Alto, is lost on the great plain towards the
Salinas. From the same range of Aconquija, but a little
little more to the west, extends the lofty Sierra of Am-
bato, terminating to the south in the hills of Mazan and
Punta Negra, which connect it through the Cerrillos with
the Sierra of Velasco or Eioja. Between the two chains
of Ambato and Alto is that of the Gracian, which
rises near the capital, and continues northwards, uniting
with the Clavillo de Aconquija. The Sierra del Atajo
rises from the latter, and runs to the east, serving as a
southern boundary to the great plain of Los Pozuelos
joining the mass of the Chango Real and other elevated
ranges, which enclose the valleys of Laguna Blanca and
Fiambala. Following towards the south, it separates
into two ranges, forming the Sierra de Belem, which
terminates by the points called Cerros Negro and Co-
lorado, in the great travesia of Copocabana at Machi-
gasta. The mass of the Andes extends from the
south to the north, with its, high lateral valleys, and the
subsidiary chains of the Machaco and Casadero de
Fiambala.
The great diversity in altitude of the different parts
of this province produces great variation in the nature
of the soil and productions. The Aconquija range con-
sists of gneiss, granite, serpentine, quartz, &c., as also
the chains of Alto and Ancaste. The Atajo and Am-
bato ranges are of the same character, but also contain
limestone and sandstone of various ages. The Sierra ol
Belem consists of gneiss in the centre, and of sandstone
188
towards the extreme south. Gneiss is found in the hills
of Tinogasta and Copocabana, and sandstone in the
eastern buttress of the great mass of the Andes, at the
Sierras of Chango Real and Medanosa, which on the
north bound the valleys of the Laguna Blanca and the
great plain of Los Pozuelos. Towards the Punta de
Balastro traces of volcanic action are ^asible. All the
mountainous region is rich' in metallic deposits — gold,
silver, copper, nickel, iron, and lead. Several mines are
at work, especially in the Sierra del Atajo, and with
profitable results. Of these I will speak in their proper
place.
Some valleys are entirely sandy, such as Laguna
Blanca, the great plains Los Pozuelos, vast circular
plains between the chains of Quilmez, Aconquija, and
Atajo, at a mean altitude of 2,500 metres, incessantly
swept by the wind, which, when it blows from the north
or north-west, raises a whirlwind of fine silicious sand
from the Sierra Medanosa. The immense basin of the
Salmas of Belem and Andalgala is sandy clay, and con-
tains in many places, especially towards the centre,
numerous efilorescences. All those plains are arid, as
rain seldom falls, but on their borders, towards the
mountains, small rivulets are utilized and produce a
luxuriant vegetation. The eastern slopes of the Sierras
of Alto and Ancaste have a rich vegetable earth, and
yield some trees and abundant pasture.
The climate varies in accordance with altitude and
locality, being pre-eminently dry in the region of
the Andes, and becomes humid in the valleys at
the base of the Aconquija, towards the south-east.
At an elevation of 1,000 metres frost is rare ; above this
elevation it freezes in winter. The summit of the prin-
189
cipal range of Aconquija is covered with perpetual snow.
The Sierras of Ambato and Atajo retain it only for a
short time; those of the Alto, Ancaste, and Belem
almost never. The line of perpetual snow commences
at 4,500 metres in the Cordillera of Catamarca; the
snowy peaks of Potro and Bonete are situate in this
province. The lower valleys, i.e.^ those below 1,000
metres, are extremely hot in summer ; the desert about
the Salinas of Belem and Andalgala is scorching, but
happily, in the vicinity of the mountains, refreshing
breezes descend and cool the atmosphere. The winds
are sometimes very strong, especially those from the
north to the south, and create fearful whirlwmds of
dust. The rainy season is in the summer, from Decem-
ber to March. Rain is rare in the neighbourhood of
the Cordillera, the clouds passing over, which are attracted
by the range of Aconquija farther to the east, and con-
sequently rain falls copiously on its slopes and the plains
at its base.
The salubrity of the province is perfect. There are
no peculiar maladies and no other epidemics than those
common to the provinces of the Andes. Mild intermit-
tent fevers are sometimes prevalent in the humid valleys
of Piedra Blanca and Paclin. The goitre prevails in
some of the valleys, especially that of the capital. '
Vegetation is meagre and stunted in the region
of the Andes, being limited to cacti, to the various mi-
mosas, such as algarrobo, the visco, the chanar, the brea,
the jarilla, &c. In the humid valleys vegetation is
similar to that of Tucuman — the wild walnut, cedar,
laurel, pacard, &c.,grow well, but do not attain the same
magnitude as in that province. Grass is abundant on
the plateau and slopes of the Alto and Ancaste. Where
190
there is a little moisture the natural vegetation is
vigorous and almost tropical, but this humidity is rare
and its absence is the cause of the sterility of the plains
and the stunted growth of their vegetation,
Agriculture, where practised in the province, with
the aid of irrigation and on the rich deep vegetable soil,
is prolific in the extreme. The fruit trees and her-
baceous plants prosper admirably. The orange, fig,
vine, peach, olive, and, in fact, all the trees of central
Europe mature and produce abundantly. The wines
made in the department of Andalgald are justly esteemed
for their excellence. Tobacco and cotton of a superior
quality are cultivated, as also the sugar cane near the
capital. All these productions are consumed in the
province. Wheat and maize yield a large return.
Lucerne is cultivated on an extended scale, principally
in the western districts, with the object of fattening
cattle for export to Chili.
The wild and domestic animals of the province are of
the same species as those of Cordoba and Santiago del
Estero, which I will describe later on. The vicuna
and the guanaco abound in the mountains to the north-
west, which are also frequented by the couguar and con-
dor. The conformation of the province, with its high
mountains and vast arid plains, is unfavourable to the
existence of many wild animals. Cattle are numerous
and multiply rapidly in the departments of the east,
where grass is plentiful and of excellent quality. Alto
and Ancaste furnish horned cattle for all the province.
The animals for export by the Cordillera are fattened
in the lucerne fields at Tinogasta and CojDOcabana before
beino- driven across the Andes. Asses and mules are
bred in the neighbourhood of Laguna Blanca. Sheep
191
and goats are met with everywhere. The indigenous
race of sheep are naturally good, and little at present is
done for its improvement. The breeding of the
vicuiia and alpaca might become very lucrative in this
province.
The isolated position of Catamarca makes its export
trade very insignificant. Cotton is little cultivated,
owing to the expense of transport, and tobacco is only
produced in small quantities for Chili. The cultivation
of this plant might be advantageously extended, since
that of Tucuman, 60 leagues more distant, is sold pro-
fitably in the market of Copiapo. Among the other
products dry figs are exported, which are very good,
and the aji^ or red pepper, which is of superior quality.
In addition, the wines and brandies produced in Andal-
gald find a ready inarket in Tucuman and Cordoba,
forming an important item. Bullocks, sheep, goats,
and mules are exported to Chili. The commerce with
Bolivia is limited to the exportation of mules. As to
local industry, it is fairly advanced and resembles that
of Tucuman. Some woollen stuff's, such as cloth for
ponchos, horse covers, and very tasteful foot rugs are
manufactured by the women in the department of the
capital. In Andalgala hides are tanned and embroi-
dery is largely produced. The women are very active
and industrious, and manufacture nearly all the preced-
ing, and, in addition, have acquired their well-earned
celebrity for the excellence and beauty of the woven
fabrics produced from the wool of the vicuna at Belem.
An ordinary scarf for a lady fetches readily in Buenos
Ayres from £20 to £30, and would no doubt be highly
appreciated in Europe if once introduced. The most
important product for export, and most valuable in-
192
dustry in the province, is the raising of copper from the
mines of the Sierra de Atajo, which has produced much
enthusiasm among all classes, and tends to develope a
spirit of union and activity hitherto unknown.
Owing to the peculiar position of the mountain
ranges, interior communication in the province is only
eifected on horseback. The capital is connected with
Rioja, a distance of 49 leagues, by carriage road, and
also with Cordoba, a distance of 118 leagues to the
south-east. The last route traverses the Salinas for 28
leagues without water, being the most difficult part of
the whole journey. Weekly mail communication by
coach is now established, and by this means intercom-
munication with Tucuman and Santiago del Estero via
Cordoba is effected; but direct communication with
those two towns is provided by mule tracks through
the valley of Paclin, crossing the range of Ancaste by
the pass of Totoral. The distance to both cities is
almost equal, or about 65 leagues. Salta and Jujuy
may be reached by the route of Andalgala and Santa
Maria, but the distance is the same by way of Tucu-
man, namely, 155 leagues. From Belem to Andalgala
or Poman the distance is 30 leagues over the Salinas.
The route from the capital to Belem, traverses the
southern extremity of the Sierra de Ambato by the
gorge of La Concepcion; passing Poman, it traverses
the desert — about in all 60 leagues. By this route one
can go direct to Tinogasta (70 leagues), and to the
Andes, by the desert at the point of Los Colorados and
Capocabana, The road from Chili passes by Tinogasta,
Anillaco, La Troya, La Tamberia, Machaco, Cordillera
of the Estanzuela, and Barrancas Blancas. The distance
is 133 leagues from Tmogasta to Copiapo. The route
193
from Belem to the former is 22 leagues, passing by the
cuesta^ or zig-zag track of Zapata, which could be easily
improved.
The province of Catamarca is divided into eight de-
partments, which are subdivided into sections and dis-
tricts. The first is that of the capital, including the
town proper and its suburbs, forming two sections, the
one to the south called " Capallan," the other to the
west called "Valle Viejo." Then comes the depart-
ment of Piedra Blanca to the north of the capital, be-
tween the two great eastern spurs of the Clavillo de
Aconquija, Ambato, and Gracian; those of Alto and
Ancaste, in the chain of this name ; that of Andalgala,
at the base of the great Aconquija, to which is attached
the section of Poman, on the western slope of the
Sierra de Ambato ; that of Santa Maria to the north
of Atajo; that of Belem, in the Sierra of the same
name, and in the north-west of the province ; lastly,
Tinogasta, to the west, comprised in the great Andes.
The department of the capital is situate in the centre
of the province, comprising the broad valley, enclosed
by the chains of Ambato on the west, and Ancaste on
the east. This is the most populous department in the
province.
The capital of the province, — San Fernando de Cata-
marca— is situate on a plain which slopes gently from
the foot of the Sierra de Ambato. It was at first
established a league lower down, upon the Rio del
Valle, but was afterwards removed to its present site,
to avoid the inundations caused by heavy freshets in
the summer. It is a pretty little town, well built and
watered by the stream Tala, which also supplies the
houses. The gardens are full of fine fruit trees, the
194
orange predominating. The plaza, or principal square,
is about four acres in extent, through which pass several
small streams of water. The centre is adorned by an
obelisk, or column, built in brick, with a railing round
its base. The only public buildings are the cathedral,
and the Government house, of modern construction,
ornamental and well designed. They join each other
and form the western angle of the square. Another
recent work of great importance and utility is a large
reservoir, situate west of the plaza, 100 metres square
and 3 metres deep. The embankments are well planted
with trees, which afford a grateful shade to the towns-
folk, who promenade there during the summer. The
water contained in this reservoir is derived from the
Tala and serves to irrigate the town and suburbs, and
rendering productive 250 acres of excellent land, pre-
viously uncultivated from scarcity of water. The sale
of this land has covered the expense of constructing the
reservoir.
The town of Catamarca has recently been greatly
improved by the erection of a considerable number of
new houses and the restoration of old ones ; the princi-
pal streets only are paved. The houses are generally
built of "adobes," and roofed with corrugated tiles.
The modern houses have flat roofs as at Buenos Ayres.
Besides the church of Matriz, or cathedral already
alluded to, there is another — San Francisco — the or-
phan asylum and the college. The convent of San
Francisco is contemporary with the foundation of the
city, and is in a good state of preservation. The other
two religious edifices possess nothing worthy of special
remark. The orphan asylum is supported by revenue
derived from its lands. The national college, now estab-
195
lished there, under the jurisdiction of the Minister of
Public Instruction at Buenos Ayres, is one of the most
complete and best ordered institutions of its class in the
country. Previous to its incorporation under the
National Government it possessed valuable and exten-
sive landed and house property, which had been be-
queathed from time to time by charitable individuals,
but all these have been handed over in trust to the
educational department of the Government, to provide
for the payment of European and other professors, and
to support its alumni. Mathematics, classics, ancient and
modern history, languages, physics, &c., are taught.
Catamarcais situated in 28° 12' south lat., 68° 45' west
long. (Paris), at an altitude of 530 metres above sea
level. The climate is hot, the sky clear about ten
months in the year ; it rains in the summer only.
The department of Piedra Blanca is situated north of
the preceding, and in a long valley, which stretches from
south to north, its northern extremity touching the
Nevado of Aconquija. At its southern extremity it is
divided into three canons, or elongated gorges; these
are Piedra Blanca, Pucarilla, and Paclin. The canon
of Piedra Blanca is situated between the Sierra de Gra-
cian and the northern part of the range Ambato; it is
well watered by the Rio del Valle, and produces the
sugar cane, tobacco, cotton, and every species of fruit
trees in abundance. It is the richest and most beautiful,
as well as the most populous valley in the whole province ;
it is seven leagues long and two broad; the land is well
cultivated and studded with houses and farms. There
are six villages, centres of population with churches —
San Antonio, Callecita, Rosario, CoUagasta, Pomancillo,
and La Puerta.
196
The canon of Pucarilla is similar to that of Piedra
Blanca, but more elevated ; cultivation of wheat, maize,
wine, tobacco, and fruit trees of all kinds are indus-
triously carried on. In the highest part and on the north-
ern extremity towards Singuil, cattle and sheep are bred
and fattened in large quantities. It is divided into three
districts — Rinconda, Bolson, and Singuil. Through
the latter estancia passes the road from Catamarca to
Andalgala, which is very bad and rough by way of the
gorge of La Chilca, but this is avoided by taking a cir-
cuitous route a little to the southward, and passing by
the Carapunco and the hamlet of Billavil,
The canon Paclin, commencing at Portezuelo, is humid
and woody ; its river waters, in addition to this valley,
the districts of Portezuelo, of Santa Cruz, and of Guay-
camas, which belong to the department of the capital.
The route from Catamarca to Tucuman passes through
it, but branches off at Merced to ascend the zig-zag
track over the Totoral and gain the eastern slopes of
the Ancaste range. The cultivation is principally of
the cereals, tobacco, and the rearing of cattle.
The department of the Alto occupies all the Sierra of
this name to the frontier of Tucuman and Santiago del
Estero; it is not very elevated, and is everywhere
covered with excellent pastures and lovely forests on its
easterly slopes. Cereals are little cultivated, the prin-
cipal occupation being the rearing of cattle — bullocks,
horses, sheep, goats, and especially mules. Agriculture
is followed to some extent in the little open valleys upon
its eastern base. There are also some tamieries where
laro-e quantities of rough leather for saddlery and har-
ness are produced.
This department is divided into two : the mountain,
197
with three districts, iiichiding the parish and hamlets
of Alto, Guayamba, and Balismano, having its church;
the plain, into three districts — village of Manantiales,
with its church, and the estancias of Obanta and Las
Cafias, situated on the borders of a small crystaline
stream whose waters are consumed entirely by irrigation.
The department of Ancaste resembles the preceding
one, having the same cultures, the same products, and
occupations. It is situated to the south-east of the most
easterly branch of the Aconquija range, and has one
part in the Sierra and the other on the plain. In the
mountain there are three districts, — Ancaste parish,
Icafia, and Motegasta, with their respective churches.
On the plain there are five, the village of San Francisco,
estancias of Chorro and Ramblon, Rosario, with its
church, and the hamlet of Anjule.
The department of the Fuerte de Andalgala, so named
after an ancient Spanish fort placed in the midst of
the country of the Andalgalas Indians, one of the bravest
of the Calchaquies tribes. It is situate at the southern
base of the Nevado de Aconquija, and whence, to the
eastward, rises the Ambato range ; it is on the border of
the vast saline desert, and embraces the valleys Atajo
to the north, and Poman to the S.S.E. The town of
Andalgala is now of some importance, having during the
last ten years singularly increased, in consequence of the
great activity and progress made in the explorations of
the mines of Atajo and Capillitas; it is the most impor-
tant centre of population in the province, next after the
capital itself. Commerce is being well developed
owing to the large importation of mining materials and
merchandize. Agriculture is advancing rapidly, and
considerable quantities of wines, brandy, dry figs, &c.,
198
are exported. The position of Anclalgala is most pic-
turesque and pre-eminently healthy, being situate at the
foot of the enormous mass of the Clavillo de Aconquija,
whose summits (over 19,000 feet) are crowned with per-
petual snow. The numerous descending streams and
rivulets from this range fertilise its virgin soil, which
consists principally of decomposed felspathic rocks most
favourable for the cultivation of fruit trees and of the
vine, whose produce is there very superior. A large
tannery has been recently established with successful
results. The locust, which appears occasionally, is its
only scourge.
The great desert of the Salinas extends to the south
and south-east, and covers a space of 400 square leagues.
The slope of this vast basin is towards the south-east,
and is surrounded on all sides by broken ranges of
mountains, of which the principal opening is at Quebra-
dillas, in the province of Rioja, where the average altitude
is reduced to 350 metres. Here passes the Arroyo
Saladillo, which appears to be the only discharge from
the southern part of the basin after freshets or rains.
The departm ent of Andalgala is divided into two sec-
tions— Andalgala and Poman. The section Andalgala
is subdivided into five districts — the town itself, which
I have just described ; the village ChoUa, at the entrance
of the quebrada of this name, and by which the road to
the mines of Las Capillitas passes, crossing higher up the
ridge of the Negrilla. This is a most picturesque and
enchanting valley, well watered by a rapid rivulet, and
presents a mass of semi-tropical vegetation in trees and
flowers of the most lovely and varied description ; so
charming is this neighbourhood that a gentleman from
Buenos Ayres, at a distance of over 1,000 miles, has
It9
purchased a little vineyard and grounds, with the view
of building a house and occasionally enjoying a sojourn
there. The next districts are Bisbis and Amanao to
the west, in the quebradas of this name, also very pic-
turesque. Billavil, to the east, is one of the chief places
in the lovely valley of this name. It is an agricultural
district and its hamlet is situated on the route to Cata-
marca city by way of Singuil, and to Tucuman by way
of Monasterio, and the eastern base of Aconquija.
The section of Poman is situate upon the western
watershed of the Sierra de Ambato, in a series of gorges
formed by its buttresses. The valley in this place
is divided mto three districts, namely, Poman, Nuet-
quin, and Rincon de Mulcasca. In these districts are
produced white wines of a very superior class, and agri-
culture, although limited, is a source of considerable
profit to its inhabitants. On the estancias in the neigh-
bourhood of the Salinas some cattle are bred and reared,
which feed principally on the leaf and fruit of the
algarrobo. This important indigenous tree (Hymemea
Courbaril-Jetaiba) is found in great abundance all over
this and neighbouring provinces, and its fruit, of the
papilionaceous species, is gathered annually by the na-
tives, and stored with much care, forming, as it does,
their principal winter stock of food. It grows some-
times to a height of 40 feet, and the diameter of its
trunk, generally knotted and crooked, varies from 6
inches to o feet. Its branches are wide spread, more
especially in the case of the largest of the species.
The fruit, as already stated, forms a most impor-
tant article of food, both for man and beast. The lono-
pods are pounded in a wooden mortar, and the resulting
mass passes through a sieve, in order to separate the
200
seeds, the husk only being used for human food. The
meal or flour thus produced is slightly moistened with
water and pressed into circular cakes or wooden moulds,
and when dried in the sun are fit for use. In this state
it is called " patay " (an Indian word), and is exported
into other districts of the Republic not possessmg the
alo-arrobo tree in sufficient abundance to make its pro-
duce worth collecting. The " patay " has a sweetish
flavour, resembling maize flour mixed with treacle, is
very nutritious, but only a small quantity can be taken
at a meal. The inhabitants of the country districts of
Catamarca and Rioja live almost exclusively on it, and
are generally strong and healthy.
Two roads cross the desert west from Poman, the
one to Belem, the other to Tinogasta. The route to
the Fuerte extends along the foot of the Ambato range
towards the north.
MINERAL RESOURCES, &c.
This province would undoubtedly be one of the
poorest and most insignificant in the Republic were it
not for its mines and reduction establishments. Its
geographical position and isolation from the centres of
traffic and commerce militate most powerfully against
its industrial progress; but, notwithstanding this, no
province in the Republic is better governed as respects
the administration of its commercial aff'airs. Order,
prosperity, and industry reign in all its departments,
despite the cries of angry and disappointed political par-
ties fustrated in designs hostile to its progress, and
opposed to the development of its mineral wealth.
Miners have nothing to do with politics, and ought to
refuse to interest themselves in anything foreign to their
201
legitimate occupation. They only ask to be allowed to
work in peace. Their labours are more exalted and
more glorious for the country and its civilization than
any other, and their happy and fruitful results are the
most eloquent proof of their importance.
In this province I have for the first time seen realized
the projects and theories of the enlightened President
of the Republic, Sefior Sarmiento. He has always
urged upon his fellow-citizens that, to enable the Sub-
Andine provinces to emerge from their actual state of
prostration, they must create within themselves the con-
sumption necessary to support increased agricultural
productions. The distance and high freight charges
prevent the exportation of these, and thus the cultiva-
tor of the soil would have no inducement to continue
his labours in the field if no such market or consumption
existed.
The normal population is insufficient to consume
even half what their fertile soil brings forth, and onlv
by increasing the number of inhabitants and fomentino-
permanent industries like that of mining, can the agri-
culturist hope to obtain a satisfactory reward for his
toil.
Catamarca possesses but one mining district of great
commercial importance in active operation, viz., " Las
Capillitas," situated 12 leagues north-east of the Fuerte
de Andalgala, and about 50 from the capital, in moun-
tains branching westward from the great range of the
Nevado de Aconquija, which divides the province from
that of Tucuman. Its geological formation is that of
the primary rocks — granite, conglomerate, gneiss, and
syenite. There are other districts in the immediate
vicinity possessing veins of copper and silver, but as none
202
are being worked, they cannot at the present moment be
considered as representing commercial value.
The Restauradora mine, belonging to Mr. Samuel
F. Lafone, of Monte Video, is the richest and most
important in the province. The works are well directed,
and economy and science applied with highly profitable
results.
The mine was purchased by Mr. Lafone for 6,000
doubloons (about £20,000), and, owing to the great
abundance and good ley of its ores, it was determined
to erect reduction works at Santa Maria, about 30 leagues
to the north. This was a grave error, as it entailed the
carrying of the ores 30 leagues northward for the pur-
pose of reduction, and the subsequent return of the
copper produced almost over the same road on its way
for export at Buenos Ayres. For some years the enter-
prise was carried on at serious loss, purely the result of
mismanagement. In the year 1860 or 1861, Mr. Lafone's
son, Mr. Samuel Lafone-Quevado, accompanied by Mr.
Juan Heller, as commercial manager, visited the mines
with the object of reforming its management; audit
was fully time that some step should be taken, as about
£70,000 had already been expended, and day by day
further loss was being incurred. Smelting operations at
Santa Maria were at once suspended, and the large es-
tancia of Pilciao was bought, situated 5 leagues south of
Fuerte de Andalgala, and 13 leagues south of the mines.
The ores were thus carried southwards, and a saving
thereby effected in the ultimate charges for freight to
the coast. The management was reformed, and useless
employes in the mine discharged and replaced by others
of a more suitable class. New furnaces were built at
203
Pilciao, and an intelligent metallurgical chemist from
Europe was engaged to direct the operations on scien-
tific principles. All these alterations caused a further
expenditure of upwards of £30,000, but its prudent in-
vestment promised good returns, as, in fact, it has, the
enterprise being now in a solvent and profitable position.
The £30,000 have been already recouped, and the
owners are in the possession of a most valuable property,
as well in lands and reduction works as in mines. The
lode of the Restauradora mine is on the average Seven
feet in width, and the average ley for copper 18 per
cent.; but the ore also contains silver in tte proportion
of about 27.13 per ton and one-ninth of an ounce of
gold. It is the presence of the precious metals which
renders the reduction of copper ores at all profitable, as
this latter alone barely covers the cost of extraction
from the mines, reduction, freight, and other expenses
incurred previous to its sale in Europe. It is in such
cases as this that the want of good and cheap means of
conveyance from the interior to the coast is most
severely felt, for the whole profit is absorbed in charges
for transport.
At the time of my visit the mine had a considerable
quantity of water in the upper levels. An adit, how-
ever, was being driven for its removal, and the
miners were meanwhile stoping out all the ore existing
in upper workings.
The orestuff" on the surface consisted at that date
(March, 1869) of 450 tons of first class ore, holding 20
per cent, of copper ; and 600 tons of second class, hold-
ing only 12 per cent, of copper, but richer in its ley for
gold and silver. The ores are sulpho-arsenides, with
antimonides of copper and iron, or what are commonly
204
called black, grey, and yellow sulphides, with purple or
peacock copper ore. About 270 tons per month are
raised and dressed for the furnaces.
The mine is worked by galleries, winzes, and shafts.
An adit, with tramway and waggons, communicates with
the upper workings and discharges the ores into the ore
yard on the surface; but there is another adit lower
down, at the foot of the mountain, on which they had
been continuously at work for four years, driving night
and day, to effect communication with the upper work-
ings and drain them. It is 360 yards in length, with a
tramway, but fifteen months' work was still necessary
before it could reach the desired point. When this is
accomplished, however, the mine will be freed from water,
presenting a vertical depth of 125 fathoms in virgin
ground, which can then be worked without difiiculty or
impediment. While this is being done, ore of a suitable
class exists on surface, and will be obtained from the
upper workings sufficient to keep the furnaces going at
the rate of 100 tons a month for over a year.
Altogether sixty persons were employed in the mine,
viz., the mine captain, Mr. James Tyrrell, who is an
Englishman; 5 Cornish miners, 1 blacksmith, and 1
bookkeeper, all English; 1 provision dispenser, 2 mayor-
domos, 12 fore-miners, 36 assistant miners, and 1
cook.
There are four pumps, and the ventilator in the lower
adit is moved by means of a hydraulic wheel. A whim
is used to raise the ore to the level of the upper adit.
The Ortiz- mine is upon another vein of much impor-
tance, situated northward, close to that of Restaui^adora.
It was little worked, being merely kept open by Mr.
Lafone. The orestuff consists of red oxides of copper,
205
with very rich silicates and carbonates ; the ley is not
less than 45 per cent, of copper , but it contains no
silver. The lode in some parts is a yard in width.
This vein joins with another, La Mon'tezuma^ which is
also of importance, but was not bemg actually worked
at the time of my visit. On the same lode are other
mines — La Victoria and Alejandra^ — yielding ore of
good ley for copper, but likewise only partially worked.
As previously explained, it is unprofitable to reduce vein-
stuff containing copper only, and as that of the Eestau-
radora holds so much copper, with silver and gold in
addition, other ores are not at present in request by the
smelting masters.
The Santa Clara mine is situated to the west of
Restaur adora^ with which it joins. It is the property of
Don Marcelino Augier. This vein, which holds a good
ley for silver, is of great width, and consists of sulphides
of copper, with blende and galena. The mine is closed,
and its lowest levels (30 fathoms) are in water, to get
rid of which it would be necessary to drive an adit.
There is an adit on a level with the water, which is of
no use for this purpose, and another must be made at
greater depth.
Higher up, on the same vein, is the Grande mine,
belono^ms: to Messrs. Malbran. Here the width of the
vein is IJ yards, and the ley of the ore 35 per cent.,
consisting of carbonates and oxides, with sulphides of
copper.
The Catamarquena and Bandera Nacional mines, also
closed, are both located on the continuation of the above
lode. At a few yards below the surface the ore disap-
pears.
206
MESSRS. CARRANZA, MOLINA, AND GO'S MINES.
The Rosario mine is the oldest in the district, and is
energetically worked, with galleries and shafts, and a
spacious adit, at 75 fathoms vertically from the upper
surface of the mountain. The miners are working 40
fathoms lower than the adit level, and at this depth a
considerable quantity of water makes its appearance.
Nevertheless, it is easily removed by means of hand
pumps.
The lode is very variable ui width, which is in parts
eighteen feet, but the average does not exceed three.
The ley of the ore is higher than that extracted from
La Restauradora by Mr. Lafone, but it is less abundant.
Still, from its superior ley, almost an equal quantity of
copper is produced.
All the orestufF raised durmg the year held on the
average 20 per cent, of copper, 19-16 ounces of silver,
and half an ounce of gold to the ton. The vein in the
lower levels was is good beneficio when I saw it, and
promises to improve.
About 150 tons of undressed orestuff was on the sur-
face, together with 9 tons dressed.
Seventy-eight persons were employed here, viz., Mr.
William Glanville, mine captain, 1 timberer, 1 assistant
ditto, all English ; 1 clerk, 1 provision dispenser, 1 black-
smith, 20 fore-miners, 46 labourers, 4 mayordomos, 1
servant, and 1 cook.
To carry on the working of this mine effectively at
least 100 men are necessary, but during my visit only
the above number were actually employed, owing to the
scarcity of hands in the district. As in the case of the
Restauradora^ a large sum of money was uselessly ex-
pended upon the mine in consequence of bad manage-
207
merit at the commencement, but, under the auspices of
the present engineer, the results now obtained are much
more satisfactory.
The Mejicana mine is on a large vein, eight yards in
width, of ferrugineous ore, formerly worked for gold.
When I visited this mine an adit was being driven on
the vein, but had not yet reached good ore. I have been
since informed that good beneficio was subsequently cut.
The Esperanza mine belongs to the same owners.
The vein is a yard in width, holding 30 per cent, of
copper in carbonates, oxides, and sulphides, with a
higher ley for silver and gold than the Rosario. A ver-
tical shaft was driven, and a whim had recently been
constructed to raise ore more economically. Good re-
sults are certain to be obtained in working this lode in
depth.
The San Salvadorhelongs to Don Wellington Mercado,
and is located at the foot of Rosario. The vein is half
a yard in width, containing 20 per cent, of copper and
74 ounces of silver to the ton. It is much worked by
an adit well driven on the vein.
The La Argentina is close to the E.^peranza, and is
the property of Don Marcelino Augier. The vein is in
beneficio, a quarter of a yard in width, and the orestuff
consists of sulphides and oxides of copper, with silicates.
It holds 88-8 ounces of silver to the ton.
There are many other old copper mines in the district,
which are not being worked ; as, in the first place, no profit
is derived from the reduction of non-argentiferous or
auriferous copper ore, and in the second place, mining
operations are restricted practically to the owners of
smelting works, and the latter having enough of their
own are not interested in purchasing ores from others.
208
Ores from the Rosario^ and other mines of Messrs.
Carranza, Molina, and Co., are reduced at their works
at Pipanaco, to which reference will be made later on.
COPPER REDUCTION WORKS.
There are only two smelting establishments in full
operation in the province, — that of Mr. Samuel F.
Lafone, at Pilciao, and that of Messrs. Carranza, Molina,
and Co., at Pipanaco.
The works at Pilciao are five leagues to the south of
Fuerte de Andalgala, and 35 leagues north-west from
the capital, on the western side of the Sierra of Ambato.
They are situated about 15 leagues from the mines, and
surrounded by immense forests of algarrobo and retamo
The locality is dry and good water can only be obtained
at a depth of 20 fathoms.
There are 9 reverberatory furnaces, including 1 for
calcination and 2 for refining; 4 Chilian mills, and 5
stamp heads. The works are very extensive, covering
more than eight acres of ground. Fire-bricks are manu-
factured on the spot, composed of pure quartz, ground
to the required fineness, and washed kaolin, or china
clay, in the proportion of 95 of the former to 5 of the
latter. Excellent bricks are thus made, being capable
of resisting fire and fluxes for a long time. I was kindly
permitted to study the system of reduction here in prac-
tice, in its various stages of progress, under the able
superintendence of Mr. Schickendantz, the metallurgical
chemist of the establishment. Mr. John Heller, a Dane
of many years' experience and residence in the country,
is the general manager.
209
AURIFEROUS AND ARGENTIFEROUS COPPER
SMELTING AT PILCIAO.
Common Spanish name'! liT which
Description of Ores received at Works. the CLisses are distiuguisheil,
1. Grey copper, with yellow pyrites (in large) Despinte, bronces
lumps) j gris.
2. Ditto, ditto, forming the smalls or sweep- ] Ditto Llampos
ings j
3. Copper and iron yellow and purple ] ^^onces amarillos.
pyrites (in large lumps) j
4. Diito, ditto, in dust Ditto, Llampos.
5. Washed smalls, or dust, containing grey, ~|
yellow, and purple copper pyrites, ga- > Llampos lavados.
lena, and blende )
6. Carbonates and oxides of copper, with ) Tyrpfoi Aq color.
carbonates of lead and galena j
7. Iron pyrites, with poor yellow copper ) Rgchanque.
pyrites j
First operation. — Ores, 1, 3, and 7 are calcined in
heaps in the open air, in large quantities at a time,
ranging from 40 to 60 tons. The well calcined ore is
selected and separated from the other, which is reserved
for further treatment, being added in certain proportion
to the next heap for calcination.
Second operation. — Smelting of the calcined ores. —
The charges generally are mixed as follows : Calcined
ore, 18 to 20 cwts.; crude smalls, 2 to 4 cwts. ; slags
from the fourth operation, 6 to 4 cwts. ; slags from the
second operation, 4 to 2 cwts. ; total, 30 cwts. Six charges
are run down in the 24 hours, the results being regulus,
holding 48 to 65 per cent, of copper ; poor slags, holding
J per cent, of copper; and rich slags, called "cogote"
(neck), which is again smelted in the second operation.
Third operation. — Calcination of the regulus. About
two-thirds of the regulus produced in the last operation
is ground in a Chilian mill, and roasted in a reverberatory
furnace. The charge is two tons, and the calcination is
completed in 24 hours.
2b
210
Fourth operation. — In the 24 hours five charges are
run down, consisting of the following : calcined regulus,
2 cwts. ; crude ditto, in mgots, 8 to 10 cwts. ; sand, 6 to
10 cwts. ; crude ore, from ore yard sweepings, 6 cwts.
The oxides and carbonates are divided between this and
the second operation, according to their class. From
this there are two important products, namely, regulus,
holding from 80 per cent, copper, which forms about 75
per cent, of the product, and black copper of 92 to 95
per cent., forming 25 per cent, of the product, and in
which latter is concentrated nearly all the gold and
greater part of the silver present in the ore ; this is called
"bottoms."
Fifth operation. — By this the regulus is refined, and
in 30 hours, 28 to 32 bars of copper are produced,
weighing from 54 to 60 cwts. The slags from this are
smelted in the second operation.
Sixth operation. — The " bottoms," (or black copper)
containing the gold and silver, are smelted or run down
in a furnace kept apart for this in order simply to give
it the required form and weight. The slags from this
hold from 2 to 3 per cent, of copper, and are all re-
smelted in the second operation.
The word " bottoms " is used in Pilciao, and generally
throughout the whole province of Catamarca, in speak-
ing of the metallic copper produced in the fourth opera-
tion, by a judicious mixture of the calcined with crude
regulus. Only perhaps 25 per cent., as already stated,
is so converted or produced by the reaction of the oxides
of copper and iron on the crude sulphides under certain
conditions of temperature in the furnace. Metallic
copper forms a thin film on the surface of the liquid
bath, and, owing to its specific gravity being greater
211
than the substratum of regulus, it falls to the bottom of
the furnace. A fresh surfacb is thus exposed to the
action of the fire, and a further quantity of metallic
copper immediately forms, which in its turn falls to the
bottom in the form of rain or fine grains. This pro-
cess is repeated until all the oxides of copper and
iron present in the furnace have been exhausted by their
reaction on the sulphides. The mixtures are carefully
arranged so that the total charge shall not produce
more than 25 per cent, of metallic copper. The theory
of this operation is, that the falling shower of metallic
copper, from its afiinity for gold and silver, attracts and
combines with those metals, disseminated through the
mass, thereby concentrating their greatest bulk in the
small quantity of bottoms produced. The presence of
lead or zinc in certain proportions greatly facilitates this
operation.
I will proceed to explain the object of this precaution,
and the great care necessary to insure success.
It is only within the past two years that Mr. Lafone
has been able to profit by the percentage of gold (and I
may add the silver) present in the bar copper produced
at his works. In Europe, the value of these precious
metals in bar copper is only realizable by the owner
when the ley for gold exceeds three ounces, and that for
silver exceeds sixty ounces to the ton ; and previous to
the introduction of the system practised by Mr. Schiken-
dantz of making "bottoms," the ley of the exported
ordinary copper rarely passed 120 to loO ounces silver
to the ton, and gold in less proportion than the standard
ley for realization. With the present system all this is
altered ; since, instead of the silver and gold being dis-
seminated through the entire mass of ordinary copper
212
produced, they are concentrated in the 25 per cent, of
"bottoms" obtained in the manner already described.
Thus, for example, when 100 tons are remitted to
Europe, 75 will contain scarcely any gold, and rarely
more than 100 ounces of silver; but the other 25 tons
of "bottoms" hold 200 ounces of silver and from 10 to
12 ounces of gold to the ton. The first sells for £80 to
£90, and the last for £135 to £140 per ton. The buyers
deduct, against cost of extracting the silver and gold,
at the rate of 60 ounces of the former and three ounces
of the latter per ton, paying for the excess at the rate
of 5s. per ounce of silver, and £3 lOs. per ounce of gold.
From these explanations it will be easy to comprehend
the great importance of the "bottoms" system, and the
skill and great care which must be exercised in pro-
ducino- them. In my opinion, however, it would be still
more advantageous to simply produce copper regulus,
holding silver and gold, and in this state realize it in
Europe, as the returning charges upon regulus are not
half those paid upon bar copper. The reason of this
is very clear. All bar copper holding gold and silver
has to be re-smelted with sulphides in Europe, in order
to re-convert it into regulus, before either the silver or
gold is extractd.
Mr. Lafone employs 555 persons in immediate con-
nection with his extensive reduction works, and as many
more are indirectly engaged in providing the workmen
with provisions and other necessaries of life. Tliere is
a very considerable consumption of merchandise ; and
it is a notable fact that, whereas, previous to the estab-
lishment of the works in Fuerte de Andalgala, the im-
portations of cotton goods and general merchandise from
Buenos Ayres did not exceed £3,500 annually, they now
213
represent a value of over £35,000, or an increase of 900
per cent.
The consumption of hay and the dried fruit of the
algarrobo, for the hundreds of animals employed in the
works, is almost incredible ; in the latter alone £580 has
been expended during the present year ; it is purchased
from the poor peons who gather it at 5d. per arroba of
25 lbs. Flour costs £1 per cwt. ; beef, about l|d. per
pound; wood, 4s. 2d. per perch of 16 cubic yards (this
is only for carriage and cutting, as the country for
leao-ues around the works belono;s to the establishment).
The labourers are paid from £1 3s. 4d. to £1 6s. 8d. a
month with rations. The freight on ores from the mines
to the works is £1 13s. 4d. per ton.
The furnaces last about 45 days without renovation.
The followino- table shows the ores raised at the Res-
tauradora mine during the year 1868 : —
Months. Weight. Weight.
Tons. Cwts. Tons. C wis. Lbs.
January 261 18 Containing, by assay, of fine copper, 48 8 28
February ... 182 16 „ „ „ 33 4 12
March 265 18 „ „ „ 46 12 45
April 299 10 „ „ „ 61 10 25
May 225 3 „ „ „ 47 n 23
June 198 18 „ „ „ 35 I 28
July 223 II „ „ „ 40 16 36
August 250 12 „ „ „ 49 7 74
September 197 8 „ „ „ 39 o 19
October ... 146 2 „ „ „ 30 17 69
November 129 2 „ „ „ 27 19 51
December... 258 12 „ „ „ 46 i 24
Total. ..2,639 1° of ore with fine copper 506 10 34
The average ley for copper, 19.2 per cent.
The foUowino; further table shows the ores reduced
and quantity of copper produced in the same year at
the Pilciao works : —
214
M(mth3. Weight. „ ^iL^Hr.
Tons. Cwts. Lbs. Tons. Cwts. libs.
January 1^112 o) , , .,
1, . o \ Producing copper in bar, 32 10 o
February ... 98 7 9 j on
March 103 9 o „ „ 20 o o
April 279 13 56 „ „ 35 o o
May 341 17 36 „ „ 50 2 o
June 233 20,, „ 34 8 o
July 342 30,, „ 45 o o
August 411 2 56 ' „ „ 50 o °
September... 314 4 o „ „ 5° ^ °
October 440 12 56 „ „ 5° ^9 o
November... 273 8 o „ „ 5^ 7 o
December... 275 19 o „ „ 33 16 o
Total ... 3,245 o o Besides about 60 tons of 453 3 o
regulus and other products.
The reduction works at Pipanaco, belonging to Messrs.
Carranza, Molina, and Co., ere situated seven leagues
north-east of Pilciao, and about twelve leagues from the
Fuerte del Andalgala, at the foot of the Ambato range .
There are four reverberatory furnaces — two for smelting,
one for refining, and one for calcination. They are a
little larger in their interior dimensions than those of
Mr. Lafone at Pilciao. Their charge is 1 ton 12 cwts.,
consisting of 24 cwts. of calcined ore and 8 cwts. of
slags, and this is run down easily in three hours, being
somewhat less hard to smelt.
It is unnecessary to enter into details with respect
to the system of reduction in practice here, as it is
identical with that followed at Pilciao, the metallurgical
operations being also under the direction of Mr. Schick-
endantz. The ores are, however, of better ley, and
more fusible than those of Pilciao; consequently the
work of reduction is simpler, and is accomplished with
less fuel. Only 64 cubic yards are used for each
furnace in the 24 hours ; but wood is dearer, costing
215
6s. 8d. per perch of 16 cubic yards. The freight or
transport of ores from the mines is also heavier, being
£2 16s. 6d. a ton, without sacks, but only £2 a ton
when those are supplied to the muleteer. All the ore
traffic from mines to works, as well here as at Pilciao,
is done on muleback, but the firewood is carted with
oxen.
Here fire-bricks are also manufactured out of quartz
and kaolin, which is found in great abundance in the
neighbouring hills. Seiior Don Mardoqueo Molina was
the initiator of this industry. Serious drawbacks were
at first encountered m consequence of the use of un-
suitable bricks and refractory stones obtained from
Paiman, near Famatina, in Rioja. On the other hand,
the cost of English bricks is so high, owing to the heavy
freight, that, commercially speaking, their use is impos-
sible. These, placed in Catamarca, do not cost less than
2s. each. In the reduction operations, both at Pilciao
and Pipanaco, the consumption of iron is greatly econo-
mised by the adoption of wooden-headed rabbles for re-
moving the slag and stirring up the charges. Pieces of
algarrobo are substituted for iron, each 9 inches long
by 4J in diameter. These are bored and fitted on the
long iron rabble-handles, forming its head, and last
for one or two days. They have the advantage, being
round, of preventing the withdrawal by the labourer
of the regulus and copper in conjunction with the slag,
which is frequently a source of loss in careless mani-
pulation with iron rabbles.
The copper produced at Pipanaco holds a larger per-
centage of gold than that of Pilciao, but there is not so
much difference as regards the proportion of silver. It
generally contains 16 ounces of the former and 180 of
216
the latter to the ton. This is owing both to the higher
le}^ of the ores, and to the presence of blende (sulphide
of zinc) and lead, which aids the concentration of the
precious metals in the "bottoms." Ores from the
Rosario have frequently a high ley for gold, and some-
times with native gold visible in specks on the surface.
In many instances those ores hold 70 per cent, of copper
and 5 ounces of gold to the ton ; but when a quantity of
this percentage is obtained they are remitted direct to
Europe without reduction, and, of course, leave a large
profit.
Pipanaco has a great advantage over Pilciao — that of
possessing running water — a small stream, which de-
scends from the neio^hbourinof Sierra ; with this alfalfa
enclosures are irrigated, and a considerable quantity of
pasture and vegetables grown. Its position is also ad-
vantageous from being on the slope of the hill, thus pre-
senting an easy declivity, which is availed of to facilitate
the charging of the furnaces. This is effected by means
of a tramway, which runs from east to west through the
works, carrying the calcined and crude ore direct to the
furnace hopper, where it is dropped in without labour or
difficulty, and of course effects a considerable saving.
Though further from the mines than the Pilciao,
charges for transport of copper from Pipanaco to the
coast are less onerous, the latter being further to the
south; but this, I conclude, is hardly equivalent to the
difference in freight upon the ores, which are greater in
weight and quantity.
The works of Messrs. Carranza and Molina have
suffered serious drawbacks in consequence of political
convulsions and the arbitrary action of the authorities
in past years. The whole of their workpeople, engaged
217
at the mines and at their reduction establishment, havff*
even been seized and compelled to serve in war contin-
gents, notwithstanding the fact that the miner, by his
profession and according to the still existing law (Or-
dinanzas of Mexico), is entirely exempt from military
service ; but the Messrs. Molina, being natives of the
country, and of course having their own political \T.ews,
frequently in discord with the rulers of the province,
suffer more from these causes than foreigners should.
To these and other causes, more especially bad manage-
ment and want of economy, is due a serious loss in the
carrying on of these works ; but it is satisfactory to be
able to state that a favourable turn has now taken place,
and the enterprising proprietors are gradually recouping
their expenditure. In short, it has happened with
them, as with Mr. Lafone, who, after losing £70,000
and fifteen years of labour, is at present making an an-
nual profit of nearly £13,000.
There are 311 workmen employed at Pipanaco, and
if we take into account all who are indirectly dependent
upon these mines and works in conjunction with those
of Mr. Lafone, the total number cannot be less than
2,000 souls. As the majority of these have families
more or less numerous, we may safely calculate three
for each person, from which it results that 8,000 people
live by the mines and their products, and that too in a
small department of the province.
It would be difficidt to exaggerate the importance of
these works and their civilizing influences, more parti-
cularly as regards the moral eff'ects produced, and which
are visible upon the inhabitants of the province. There
is nothing more certahi than that, were they to stop, or
even temporarily to suspend their operations, the nums-
218
rous community dependent upon them for support
would be thrown into a state of extreme destitution, or,
what is worse, the greater part of those who are now
maintaining themselves by honourable toil, would pro-
bably be converted into hordes of turbulent robbers and
assassins.
Both the Government and the people themselves are
convinced of these truths, and therefore make every
effort to preserve the present happy and prosperous
state of things.
In Catamarca, as in the other mining provinces, there
are scarcely any carriage roads, and it is a cause of great
regret that a matter of such necessity and economic im-
portance, from a commercial point of view, should not
have long since received the special attention of the
authorities.
From the reduction works at Pilciao and Pipanaco
there are natural carriage roads to the Fuerte de Andal-
gald, but thence to the mines only mule tracks exist.
The latter have been made by Messrs. Lafone, Carranza,
and Molina, for their own use, and at a cost of £2,500
These it would be most desirable to widen (that of
Mr. Lafone being preferable), and the expense of doing
so would not exceed £2,000. Passing the mines, this
road descends, skirting the mountains of Las Capillitas,
to the Pampa de los Pozuelos, which presents no impedi-
ment to followmo; northwards on the western side of
Aconquija up to Santa Maria and the frontier of Tucu-
man.
This would then become the public high road, and
most important in facilitating traffic from the south to
Salta, Jujuy, and Bolivia; especially from Mendoza,
San Juan, and Famatina,
219
At present no road exists between the city of Cata-
marca and the Fort of AndalgaM, even for loaded mules,
without making an immense detour to the south. The
traffic between those points is very considerable, and
ought to be at once accommodated with a good carriage
road, which might pass by Singuil, following through
the ravine, or quebrada, up stream to reach the pampa
of Pucara, afterwards taking the easiest descent to the
foot of the Nevado de Aconquija in order to arrive at
the Fort of Andalgala. The distance would be about
40 leagues, and the cost not less than £200 per league.
It is a matter of pressing necessity to render the
road between Catamarca and Tucuman available for car-
riage traffic. The present mule traffic is very great,
and the commercial results of such a road must be of
incalculable importance. Some years ago it was pro-
posed to accomplish this work, and the necessary sur-
veys and plans were prepared with that object.
After passing through a rich and populous valley it
would cross the Ancaste range by the Totoral, which
offers no serious difficulty. According to the esti-
mates presented when the surveys were made, the cost
of a carriage road from Catamarca by way of Totoral to
Tucuman would be £5,300; but, having examined the
route and the several points indicated, I am of opinion
that it would entail an expenditure of at least £7,500 to
£8,500. As for the continuation from the foot of the
Totoral pass in Tucuman to the capital of this province
it is only necessary to render the actual road more direct
by cutting a road through the forests. Numerous
rivers (sixteen in all) flow from the Aconquija mountains
to the Rio Dulce, and over these it would be impracti-
cable, or rather useless, to construct bridges. For in
220
the rainy season the beds of these rivers are swept by-
violent torrents, carrying down uprooted trees of gigantic
size, which, with the accumulation of dense tropical
veo-etation, form floatino; islands. These would soon
obstruct any bridge which might be erected, and even
should this be sufficiently strong to resist the weight
and force of the floating masses of trees and vegetation,
the result in a few minutes would be the overflow of
the banks and inundation of the whole of the surrounding
country. The banks of these rivers are mostly low, and
certainly not high enough to permit the construction of
bridges which would allow the free passage beneath of
huge trunks and trees, with their roots and branches
projecting many feet out of the water.
These difficulties are almost insuperable, and I fear
that it will prove impracticable to carry out the pro-
longation of the Central Argentine Railway to Tucuman
by this route, which is one of two indicated by Senor
Moneta, the chief National Engineer, and recommended
by its well populated districts and large sugar and to-
bacco plantations.
The other route examined by Sefior Moneta seems to
be the most feasible, though not so commercially im-
portant as the one first mentioned. It is farther to the
eastward, and crosses the Rio Dulce, once to the south,
running parallel to its coui'se north up to within a short
distance of the city of Tucuman, when it again crosses
this river. This route obviates the necessity of crossing
so many small streams and rapid rivers, all of which
empty themselves into the Dulce at different points to
the north from the crossing recommended by Moneta in
his second route.
This is, however, a matter for study and careful ex-
221
ploration, which I am glad to say is now being effectually
carried out under the able superintendence of Senor
Moneta, assisted by a corps of Government engineers.
Within a few months we will have the surveys com-
pleted^ and I trust soon after to see the commencement
of this all-important extension of the Central Argentine
Railway to the north.
222
PEOYIxNCE OF TUCUMAN.
GENERAL PHYSICAL ASPECT, DESCRIPTION OF SOIL,
CLIMATE, &c.
The province of Tucuman is situated between 26*^ and
28*^ south lat., and 67° and 68^ 30' west long. (Paris);
this gives it an extent of 1,200 geographical leagues,
equal to about 1,500 Argentine square leagues. It is
bounded on the north by the rivers Tala and Urueiia,
which separate it from Salta ; to the east by a line
nearly parallel to 67^ long., which passes through the
great plain to the east of Aconquija, the estancias of
Vitiaca, Palomar, Bagual, &c,, and also over the Rio
Dulce west of the village of Rio Hondo ; to the south,
the Rio de San Francisco separates it from Catamarca
and from Santiago ; on the west, by the great Aconquija,
a range of mountains whose summit is over 19,000
feet above sea level and is perpetually covered with
snow. This line penetrates the valley of Santa Maria
by the opening of Tafi, and there forms a plateau of
six leao^ues lono; and four in breadth, which includes
the district of Colalao. The territory of Tucuman is
bordered by those of Salta, Santiago del Estero, and
Catamarca.
223
The general aspect of the province is very varied,
owing to its vast plains, its mountains, the numerous
rivers and streams which run through it, and its luxuriant
vegetation. It may nevertheless be divided into two
principal regions — that of the plains, which commence
at the foot of the mountains of Aconquija, and extend
eastward to the limits of Santiago ; that of the mountains
formed by all the dependencies of the same chain to the
limits of Salta and of Catamarca. That portion of the
plain around the base of Aconquija is traversed by
numerous rivers, and embellished by magnificent forests
interspersed Avith grassy prairies. It is here that the
population is most dense and agriculture is in the
ascendant. The other portion to the west of Rio Sali,
which, lower down, becomes the Rio Dulce, comprises
very rich pasture land, equal to the best in Santa Fe or
Entre Rios. The breeding of cattle here supercedes
agriculture. This splendid tapis de verdure is studded
here and there with clumps of fine timber trees, resemb-
ling our best European park lands, and divided into
numerous populated estancias. This part is perfectly
level, has no rivers, and only a few lagoons. Water is
found at little depth by digging wells. There is ahvays
a dry season during one part of the year, although
otherwise the province is abundantly supplied by rain.
The momitainous region lies to the north and west of
the province. To the north, the mountains are not of
great altitude, but form a net work of little chains which
cross one another curiously, circumscribing lovely
valleys. To the west lies the grand Sierra of Aconquija
already alluded to. A number of parallel chains, which
are considerably lower, extend parallel to this principal
range, and enclose elevated valleys, where the rain.
224
ciew, and small streams of water from the melted snow,
notwithstanding their altitude, produce a vigorous ve-
getation, very different from that of the other Andine re-
gions so desolated by drought.
The province of Tucuman, although the smallest in
the Republic, is most striking from the abundance of
water, the splendour of the vegetation, the variety of its
soil, and, in short, the great beauty of the country.
Nothing can be more picturesque than the gorges of
the Aconquija, with their foamy torrents and their
forests of immense cedar trees ; nothing more enchanting
than the plains which lie at the foot of this giant moun-
tain, and which are irrigated by an infinite number
of rivers and streams. Indeed this province is the best
watered of any in the Argentine Repubhc, possessing,
as it does, the great advantage of having the sources of
its rivers at such an altitude as admits of an unlimited
distribution of their waters over the plains, being
furnished from the high parts of the Aconquija, to the
south of San Francisco ; to the east of the Sali there are
no rivers, but canals for irrigation might easily be taken
there. The OTeat mass of water which comes from the
mountains by numerous streams, uniting, form one
central course, the Sali, which lower down becomes the
Rio Dulce, passing by Santiago del Estero, and finally
loses itself in the lagoons of Los Porongos (Cordoba).
This watercourse takes its rise at the extremity north
of the Cumbres de Calchaqui, by the branches Riarte
and Chamorros, joins itself to the Rio Tala, which forms
the boundary line with the province of Salta, then
receives the torrents of Acequiones, Alduralde, and
Vipos, at the mouth of which it is known under the
name of the Rio SaK. Near the capital it is joined
225
by the rivers Tapia and Saladillo; further down it
receives the rivers Famailla, Monteros, Rio Seco del
Conventillo, Meduias or Gastona, Rio Chico, Matasambe,
and Marapa ; this last terminates the series of westerly
confluents of the Rio Dulce. The Rio San Francisco,
which forms the southern limit with Santiago, is lost in
the plain further south. On the north-east the Rio
Sali receives only three rivulets, viz., Calera, Potrillo.
and Loro, which come from the little Sierras Medina
and Yorami. The Zapallar and the Urueiia, whose
course is eastward, are lost in the plain, and rarely
reach the rivulet Los Horcones, which is itself absorbed
by the sands before touching the Juramento river.
In their upper part these rivulets receive a number
of small streams, which are used generally for irriga-
tion; none are navigable, and several are dry during
part of the year. With the rains of spring and summer
they swell and flow in violent torrents, which makes the
Sali dangerous to ford. From the mouth of the Marapa
river, the Sali takes the name of Rio Hondo, and after-
wards, lower down, that of Rio Dulce, whose ultimate
course has been described.
Gneiss and mica-schist constitute the principal geolo-
gical formation of the mountainous districts, but in some
parts there are traces of volcanic action. In the little
ranges to the east of Rio Sali there is sandstone and some
limestone. This part suff'ers much from drought, and
the vegetation is not so good as on the high western
ranges, where the rocks are covered by a rich vegetable
earth.
In the plain, the altitude of which varies from 300
to 400 metres, the mould is deep and rich. Instead of
the sandy clay soil of the saHne districts of the west, the
2 D
226
earth here is black and fertile as in Entre Rios and
Corrientes; the subsoil is reddish, a little marly, but
loose; at a short distance from the mountain scarcely
a stone is to be found on the surface. In the dry season
the Avater in the rivers is crystaline, and flows over a
bed of fine white sand, whilst in the rainy season it is
thick and turbid. The soil of Tucuman is everywhere
fertile, and irrigation is not so absolutely necessary for
cultivation as in the other Andine provinces.
In the Sierra ofAconquij a there are doubtless mineral
deposits, containing gold, silver, copper, lead, and iron,
together with rock crystal, marbles, limestone, and
sandstone, but owino- to the dense veo-etation and thick-
ness of surface soil, exploration is difiicult.
Earthquakes are rarely felt, and the few shocks that
have occurred have not been of sufficient violence to
cause devastation, and therefore no particular precau-
tion is necessary in the construction of public edifices
and houses.
The climate of the province varies according to the
altitude of the two regions just mentioned. It is much
more humid in the mountainous regions than in the
other chains of the Andes. This is owing, no doubt,
to the absence of plateaux, and esj^ecially to the situa-
tion of Aconquija, which is on the borders of the great
plain of the pampas The year is divided into two
seasons, — the rainy, which commences at the end of
October and continues to March, and the dry, which
lasts the remainder of the year; nevertheless there are
other periods of ram in the latter season, and abundant
dews fall, which stimulate vegetation.
The period of the greatest rain is the hot season, and
is nearly always stormy. In the morning the sky is
227
clear and the heat intense; two or three hours after the
sun reaches the meridian, storms come on, and rain falls
in torrents for about two hours ; then the heavens are
again clear until the next day. In the mountains the
rains are more frequent and more abundant than on the
plain; they commence earlier in the season and finish
later. Frost is rare and of very short duration, even at
an altitude of 450 metres, at which the town of Tucuman
is situate, and of which the mean temperature is 21^^
Cent. It is fresh in the months of July and August,
and extremely hot from November to May. Above
800 metres the cHmate changes suddenly, and as much
as 3^ frost is felt. The winds in general are not very
strong, nor so frequent as in the lower provinces ; during
the bad, rainy weather, the wind changes from gusts to
hurricanes.
The chain of Aconquija presents a remarkable
phenomenon, dividing, as it does, the dry regions of the
Andes from the more humid climate of the pampas.
To the west of this chain it rains during the summer
only, and then but rarely. To the east the rains are
copious, especially during the hot period.
The climate, although hot eight months of the year,
is neither unhealthy nor debilitating ; the only malady
peculiar to the country is intermittent fever, but, by a
better system of drainage, this might, in a great measure,
be obviated. The great rains, which fall during summer,
cause the overflow of rivers, rivulets, and lagoons, which
evaporate towards the end of the autumn, and being
highly charged with decomposed vegetable matter,
fill the atmosphere with malaria. The intermittent
fevers are, however, not violent and of short duration,
and might, to a great extent, be avoided by observing
228
regular hal3its and abstaining from fruit. Diseases of
the skin and pulmonary phthisis are met with more fre-
quently than in the adjoining provinces. The pleuro-
pneumonia of the Andes makes its appearance during win-
ter. Notwithstanding all this the country is very healthy ;
this is proved by the considerable difference which is
noted in the returns of bii'ths and deaths, being in the
proportion of 2 to 1. During a period of 25 years, the
register of baptisms in the department of the capital,
which is the most populous, was stated at 27,399, whilst
the mortality was only 13,641.
We have already alluded to the magnificent vegeta-
tion of Tucuman. It is quite tropical on the plains and
upon the eastern watershed of the mountains to the
altitude of 1,000 metres ; higher up — above 2,000 metres
— it resembles that of Central Europe.
In the lower districts the heat, combined with
humidity, tends to develop, to a prodigious extent, the
trees, some of which attain enormous proportions.
Laurels at La Fronterita have been known to measure
eight metres in circumference, and at the foot of the
Sierra cedars (red and white), quebrachos, walnut,
lapachos, pacaras, &c., reach a gigantic size and furnish
magnificent timber for joiners, cabinetwork, and build-
ing purposes. Parisitic plants of all sizes cover the old
trees of the forests. Among the herbaceous plants there
is an infinite number of those which are useful or
agreeable for their fruits, flowers, and their medicinal or
aromatic properties. In short, this province unites in
itself every species of vegetation which we find dissemi-
nated over the other parts of the Argentine territory.
Agriculture is well developed. After the production of
wheat, maize, and rice, for which there is local con-
229
sumption, they culti\'ate primitively, in the same soil,
the sugar cane and tobacco which form the chief com-
mercial sources of prosperity in the province. The
sugar cane was first introduced from Peru, by the
Abbe Colombres, and cultivated in the year 1824, and
has since been extensively increased, providing for the
consumption, not only of this, but of the neighbouring
provinces. Tobacco is now cultivated on a large scale,
and forms the principal export to Chili, which country
is almost exclusively supplied from this source. The
humidity of the summer facilitates the production of
maize and rice, — the latter of superior quality. Wheat
produces fairly in the mountainous districts at an alti-
tude of 800 metres, but on the plains the heat and
humidity of the climate frequently engender blight
and destroy the whole crop. This cause also prevents
the successful cultivation of the vine near the capital,
which, however, does not apply to the mountains. All
European vegetables grow well, especially the potato
and cabbage, which are exquisite. The plain possesses
nearly all the fruit trees of hot climates, the orange,
cherimoUier, guava, fig, pomegranates, the pistachio nut,
&c. As the province of Tucuman partakes of all climates,
so all the productions of the world could be easily culti-
vated. To ordinary agriculture might easily be added
the extensive cultivation of cotton and indigo, which
latter grows there as an indigenous plant, as also does
the cactus, on which the cochineal insect is found in
abundance.
Independently of the animals peculiar to the lower
provinces, Tucuman possesses the tapir, pecari, the
vampire, which torments the cattle at night, the couguar,
the scourge of goats and sheep in the mountains, and
230
the jaguar, which is now rare ; the boa is seen only in
the forests and is comparatively harmless. The condor,
eagles, and large birds of prey dwell in the Sierra of
Aconquija ; likewise the guanaco and vicuna.
Bovine cattle abound, and of a larger and JDetter class
than those found in the lower provmces, owing to the
superior quality of the pasture and abundance of good
water. It is principally from this province that the
markets of Chili and Bolivia are supplied, the former by
way of Mendoza and San Juan, where, as already stated,
the cattle are fattened up on lucerne, and driven over
the Andes.
Horses and mules, although found in fair abundance,
are principally introduced from Mendoza and San Juan,
and this branch of industry is frequently very profitable.
The growth of commerce, and consequently of transit,
has raised the price of beasts of burden very con-
siderably, and encourages the breeders in all the Andine
provinces. This, however, acts injuriously on the
breeding of goats and sheep; the latter produce fine
wool, independently of their use as an article of food.
Tucuman is about the most industrious of all the in-
terior provinces of the Argentine Republic. Its
distance from the coast obliges it to give special atten-
tion to the mechanical arts, and the preparation of wood
for building and cabinet work, which is exported to the
neighbouring provinces, especially to those of Cuyo ; also
to the construction of carts, the manufacture of stuff's,
and the tanning of hides.
At the present moment the production of tobacco and
manufacture of sugar command the principal attention
of the inhabitants. Of the latter, there are now 25 large
plantations and manufactories, each producing 6J to
231
75 tons of sugar, and 50 to 400 barrels (600 to 4,800
gallons) of rum, without enumerating smaller establish-
ments. The total annual production may be estimated
at one million of kilogs. of sugar (985 tons); and 7,000
hectolitres (154,000 gallons) of cana or rum. Part is
consumed in the province ; the remainder is exported to
Santiago del Estero, to Catamarca, and to Rioja.
At one of the sugar plantations, the property of Don
Wenceslao Posse, I was permitted to make some notes
on the produce of his estates and its annual value.
The estate consists of 2,500 acres of splendidly wooded
and open pasture land, situate about 10 miles to the
south of the city, and 240 acres of this was planted with
sugar cane. Some of the plants had been 18 years in
the ground and still produced fairly ; but it is not con-
sidered advantageous to pass the fifteenth year.
It is calculated that an acre will cost about £1 10s.
to plant the first year, and will of course only require
ordinary care and treatment to keep productive during
successive ones. Seiior Posse began 24 years ago
with a capital of £500 ; his estate cost then only £75,
and this, together with the works, are now worth at least
£10,000, according to the local valuation, whilst the
annual income derived from it would represent about
£5,000.
The annual expenses on the sugar plantation amount
to about £2,500, including the boiling down of syrup
and production of rum. The produce obtained is as
follows: — 125 tons (Spanish) sugar, at £40, realizable
on the spot, £5,000; 1,600 barrels of rum, sold there
at £2 per barrel, £3,200 ; total produce, £8,200. Deduct
cost, £2,500, and 20 per cent, for extras, £500, making
£3,000; which leaves a net total of £5,200.
232
The gathering in of the cane begins usually in June
and lasts up to the end of August. It is transported
from the fields on bullock carts and delivered at the
mill, where it is cleaned of the leaves and passed through
a powerful pair of rolls, worked by an overshot water
wheel. The syrup is received in a trough beneath, and
pumped into vats or deposits, whence it is drawn off by
pipes into the boilers, or evaporating pans, and boiled
down. The fuel used is wood, but, owing to a very old
and now obsolete method of setting the pans, a great
waste of caloric takes place, and makes this operation
very costly and slow. Formerly the resulting mass of
sugar was whitened or decolorised by being placed
in earthenware jars of a conical shape, having a hole
perforated in the bottom, on which was placed a thin
layer of straw. These were filled up to within a few
inches of the top, and the remaining space filled up
with mud, when the jars were allowed to stand and the
treacle to drain off by the perforation in the bottom.
This continued for sometimes 60 and 80 days, when the
layer of mud was removed and the sugar found to be
quite dry and white, the mud having absorbed that
portion of the treacle and colouring matter which did
not drain off. This system required a very large
amount of house accomodation and apparatus, as well as
considerable capital to enable the sugar maker to wait
for the completion of the process and realize his profits.
Now it is different, as Senor Posse has introduced the
well-known centrifugal decolorising machine as used in
the West Indies. This is driven by a small steam
engine, and performs in a few minutes what on the old
prmciple required months to effect. I believe that only
two or three of these machines are as yet in use in the
233
country, and the sugar growers who have them not are
obliged to follow the old system just described.
A little rice and some oranges are exported to Cordo-
ba. Tucuman furnishes carts for nearly all the transit of
the interior of the Republic ; and yet, at the present time,
it sends on mule-back the wood for building, joinery,
and cabinet work to the provinces of San Juan and
Mendoza. They also manufacture furniture for the
use of the country. Dry and tanned skins are sent to
the coast ; as they are of good quality, thanks to the su-
periority of the bark (quebracho Colorado) employed in
tanning, they make fair competition with the importations
from Europe at Rosario and Buenos Ayres. It is esti-
mated that 60,000 hides per annum are thus prepared.
The inhabitants of the mountains excel in the manufac-
ture of cheese, called " Tafi," from the principal estancia
where it is made. These cheeses resemble the Roque-
fort and are of superior quality.
All this commerce enables the province of Tucuman
to be large importers of foreign produce, which arrives
there by caravans of carts from the coast, or by troops
of mules from Chili by the passes of the Cordillera.
By the latter route the cost is excessive and the carts
are preferred.
Tucuman is evidently making rapid progress. A num-
ber of foreigners are settled there, especially French-
men and Italians, who have powerfully contributed to
the commercial and industrial activity of the country.
About 12 years ago the spirit of enterprise, generally
so rare and dull in the interior provinces, began to de-
develop itself and has produced excellent results.
This is principally owing to the introduction of saw mills,
worked by water power in the Sierra ; iron mills or rolls
for the sugar cane ; and a large number of agricultural im-
2e
2M
plements. Thus the population manifestly iiicreases in
number and advances in civilization.
The province of Tucuman is divided into nine depart-
ments, which in their turn are subdivided into six town
districts and thirty-nine country districts. These are
the Capital, Famailla, Monteros, Rio Chico Chicligasta,
Graneros, — all near the eastern base of the Sierra de
Aconquija; Leales, on the plain to the east of the Rio
Sali ; Troncas, in the mountains to the north of the pro-
vince ; Burru- Yacii, in the little Sierras and plains to
the north-east. The town of Tucuman is situated in
26° 52' lat. south and long. 68^ 20' west (Paris), accord-
ing to Captain Page, U.S. Navy, and at 430 metres above
sea level according to De Moussy. It is built on a very
level plain, upon the left bank of the Rio Sali, from
which it is a mile distant. The ground upon which it
is built rises from seven to eight metres above the plain
where the Sali flows, and consequently is not subject to
its inundations. To the west of the city there are gentle
undulations, which gradually mingle with the first spurs
of the buttresses of the Aconquija range. The town was
originally founded in 1565 by Don Diego de Villaroel,
a companion of Pizarro in his conquest of Peru. He
gave it the name of San Miguel de Tucuman, and it was
situate twelve leagues farther south than the present
town and in closer proximity to the river. Twenty
years subsequently an inundation destroyed it, when it
was abandoned, and the present town was built in a lo-
cality less exposed. In its actual position it overlooks
the great plains to the west, and the declivity of the
land towards the river permits easy drainage of the rain
water, and that employed for irrigation, which is derived
from the streams in the Sierra during the dry season.
The streets are very long, tolerably wide, and at
235
right angles. The town consists of 118 squares or
blocks of houses, each with 138 metres frontage ; this
admits of large courtyards and gardens, where the orange
tree predominates. The old buildings are generally only
of one storey high, with flat and tiled roofs ; the nume-
rous modern houses, however, are often of two storeys
high, and with terrace roofs as at Buenos Ayres, the
system of architecture being perfectly appropriate to the
climate, which, as already stated, is so very hot during
eight months of the year. The materials consist of ex-
cellent brick and lime mortar. Gypsum is abundant,
and in the neighbourhood marbles and freestone of
excellent quality can be procured. The carpentry is
furnished from the magnificent timber of the country.
The town is well built, and presents an appearance of
gaiety and luxury which is scarcely expected in such a
remote interior district.
The most remarkable public edifices are the parish
church Matriz and the Cabildo. The Matriz is a
beautiful modern edifice, ornamented with two square
towers 38 metres high, and a dome whose interior
is painted in fresco by a French artist. A Doric colon-
nade forms the portico. The only fault seems to be the
width of the lateral naves. The plan and execution are
the work of a French architect, M. Pierre Echeverri, an
old settler in Tucuman, who also restored, or rather
reconstructed, the church of the convent of the Francis-
cans, which is likewise very beautiful. The decoration
of the interior of the Matriz corresponds with the ex-
terior and is in excellent taste. The subscriptions of
the faithful, the assistance of the Provincial Government,
the application of the tithes which then existed, the ac-
tivity of the clergy, and \\iQ union of all, finally raised
236
this remarkable edifice, under the administration of
General Don Celedonio Gutierrez, and the Governors
who succeeded him have applied the same zeal to finish
and embellish it. The Cabildo, which occupies the
west side of the jDlaza, or principal square, is a heavy
edifice of the first Spaniards, ornamented with a high
clock tower, and at one time served as a barracks for
soldiers. It is now the Provincial Government House,
and the Chamber of Deputies meet there. The princi-
pal plaza of Tucuman is ornamented with a high column,
built in brick and plastered, surmounted by a statue of
liberty. This square has been recently planted with
orange trees, and provided with marble benches for
public accomodation ; it is situated in the middle of the
town and forms an agreeable promenade. The number
of shops which surround it also makes it a very ani-
mated and popular centre of resort. Neither the church
of the Dominicans, nor the convent orBeatonide Jesus,
O nor La Merced presen^anything worthy of remark.
^ Two monuments, although in themselves very simple,
recall noble souvenirs, not only for the town of Tucu-
man, but for the whole of the Argentine Republic ; the
one is a column which is raised near the town, at a spot
called La Ciudadela, where, on the 24th of September,
1812, the patriot army, conducted by General Belgrano,
2fained a complete victory over General Tristan who
commanded the Spanish forces ; the other, the identical
house, including the hall, where, on 9th July, 1816, the
first National Congress proclaimed the independence of
the country. The plain of Ciudadela is situate south-
west of the town, and has been often the theatre of
numerous combats during the civil wars.
A social club, composed of the young gallants of the
237
town, gives a monthly ball to the elite of society. These
assemblies are very gay and popular, and there the ami-
able and graceful Tucumanas vie with each other in music
and dancing ; indeed I was surprised to find such really
good musicians amongst the young girls — some of whom,
under the tuition of Italian masters, excel in execution.
The outskirts of the capital are well peopled and cul-
tivated ; it is here where the principal sugar plantations
and the tanneries are situate. They are divided into
seven districts, viz.. Las Aguirres, Chacras del Norte,
comprising the country houses and farms to the north
of the town; Cebil Redondo, to the west, where the
great sugar refinery of Don Felix Frias is situated ; to
the south, Yerba Buena; lastly, Chacras on the south-
east, north-east, and north-west. All these districts
are well cultivated and enclosed by ditches and hedges
of the cactus opuntia.
From what we have seen of the richness and importance
of this province, it would seem to present one of the
most enchanting places for immigration in South
America.
The extent of land which might be brought under
cultivation by a proper distribution of the surplus
waters, now partially inundating the country, is almost
unlimited. Sugar planting and tobacco growing, as we
have seen, is even now most lucrative, and when rail-
way communication from Cordoba will have placed it
in contact with the lower provinces, and secured a ready
market for its produce, it will indeed be a rich and im-
portant territory. Land is comparatively cheap, and-^ ^^
may be purchased in freehold for about 3Jd. per acre, ^
studded with the most valuable trees and fertile in the
extreme. I need scarcely point out that once the rail- 'SJ
238
way will have been made, and even before, these lands
must increase very rapidly in value, and become even-
tually a most desirable investment for capital. It is
true that at the present moment there is not local con-
sumjotion for more than is produced in sugar and rice,
and the high rates of freight preclude their profitable
exportation. But the railway will of course alter all
these figures, and these staples must assume their proper
place very soon in the markets of Buenos Ay res and
Monte A'^ideo.
Labour in Tucuman, although scarce, is very cheap,
and peones or common workmen may be hired for £2
a month without food.
It would seem a most desirable arrangement to intro-
duce here a number of coolies, to be employed in the
sugar plantations, and, no doubt, later on, when men of
capital and intelligence direct their attention to this
"garden of the Republic," this, and many other impor-
tant reforms, will take place.
As no mines or mineral veins were being worked in
this province, and the existing lodes are so little known
or explored, I do not give any particulars as to its mineral
resources.
Population, 1869.— City, 17,438; country, 91,668;
total, 109,106.
239
PROVINCE OF SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO.
GENERAL PHYSICAL ASPECT, DESCRIPTION OF SOIL,
CLIMATE, &c.
The Province of Santiago del Estero, to the north of
Cordoba, extends between 26^^ and 30^ south lat. and
64*^ 30' and 67^ west. long. (Paris), and contains 3,500
square miles, without including that part of the Gran
Chaco, Tucuman, and Salta, over which it exercises the
right of j urisdiction.
It is separated from the province of Cordoba by a
line which corresponds nearly with the 30th parallel,
and with which coincides a very remarkable division in
the nature of the soil, which here ceases to be calcareous
and humid, becoming granitic and dry.
To the south-west and west its limits with Catamarca
and Rioja are marked by the river Albigasta, the
southern prolongation of the Sierra de Ancaste, and the
basin of the Salinas. In going northward by the river
Albigasta, the line of division between this province and
those of Tucuman and Salta passes by a number of in-
habited estancias, corresponding to the 67° meridian of
west long., and ends at thq farm of Mojon, situated on
the east side of the Rio Salado. This farm of Mojon
240
marks the frontier on the north with Salta. To the east
it borders upon the Gran Chaco and does not extend
beyond the preceding river. To the south-east it
touches Santa Fe by the desert, at the series of undu-
lations known by the name of Los Altos. All the limits
are very vague, and have no defined position, as they
lie on a desert, and are rather those given by custom
than by legal delineation. If the extent of the province
is calculated by that part only which is inhabited its
greatest length is from north to south, and then its
breadth will be reduced to a few leagues ; the territory
of the Gran Chaco, inhabited only by wandering tribes
of Indians, should naturally be assigned to it.
The average altitude of the province of Santiago del
Estero is about 200 metres above the level of the sea,
and is situated in a large plain of a sandy-clay nature,
which is partly covered with primeval forests and tra-
versed nearly through its centre by a shallow saline
basin running from east to west. It is divided from
north-west to south-east by two rivers, the Rio Salado
or Juramento, and the Rio Dulce, which flow parallel
to each other, and between which is centered the
majority of the population of the province. Towards
the middle is a low range of mountains of a species of
granite, called Guazayan ; to the south of the basin of
the Salinas begin to rise by gentle undulations the
mass of mountains designated in other parts of this
work as the great central Argentine range.
The Rio Juramento or Salado borders the north-
east of the province, and forms the frontier upon the
Chaco, together with the estancias of San Miguel and
Mojon. These two rivers are studded with farms,
principallv for breeding cattle, but when they over-
241
flow the land is prodigiously fertile and agriculture
is followed. As far as Sepulturas the Juramento is
engorged, compact, and deep, owing to the natural
sudden declivity of the country ; but from this point the
country becomes so flat that the waters meander right
and left, forming lagoons and shallows, and rendering
navigation impossible. It is only at Navicha that one
finds again the bed of the river well defined, after which
it flows through the desert and to the Indian territory.
From Sepulturas to Navicha there are three vastbaiiados
or marshes, formed by the overflow of the river, namely,
San Antonio, also called the lagoon of Tomacop-Hoyon,
and Bracho, above the fort of this name, and those of
Navicha below.
The left bank of the Salado is bordered with thorny
forests so thick that it is impossible to penetrate them
except by some openings known only to the natives.
The right bank is more open, and produces good pasture,
where numerous cattle farms are established. Near the
banks are lagoons, with more or less water, according
to the height of the river and the quantity of rain which
falls in the province. From Navicha to the territory of
Santa Fe the river is compact and deep, but nevertheless
is fordable in several places. In 1860 a number of small
forts were established on its banks, some on the site of
the old Spanish forts, and others in new localities, chosen
as much for their strategic position commanding the
passes as for their fertility. From the Fort of Bracho
to Monte Aguara the Salado forms the military line of
frontier of the Republic upon the Chaco.
The Rio Dulce, formed by all the rivulets and torrents
which descend from the great range of Aconquija, enters
the province of Santiago by the village of Rio Hondo,
2 F
242
flowing from west to east across an undulating country
towards the capital, and is bordered by high protecting
banks, which maintain it in its course. Passing to the
east of the town of Santiago, it runs towards the south-
east across a country absolutely flat; fifteen leagues
lower down, at Tayuyo, there are several old beds, over
which, in the course of years, the river has alternately
passed. During the overflows large quantities of silt
are deposited, which successively fill up these beds, and
the last one which remained open was unfortunately
directed towards the side of the Salinas, where it has
formed a lagoon, whose waters flow sluggishly and after-
wards rejoin their old bed, much lower down, forming
the river Saladillo.
The Saladillo is a river of considerable size and depth,
flowing through a natural fosse, which formerly received
the rain waters of the basin of the Salinas and carried
them to the Rio Dulce. But in 1825, when the Dulce,
near Tayuyo, opened a new course towards the Salinas,
its waters passed and still continue to flow entirely into
the Saladillo, which it has enlarged, and whose bed it
has deepened in such a manner as to make it a copious
and rapid river during the rainy seasons. It is by this
means that the Rio Dulce regains its old bed at Paso de
San Cristoval. From this place the Dulce, now united
to the Saladillo, but no longer salt and bitter, flows
towards the lagoon Los Porongos.
The'lands bordering the Rio Dulce towards the north
are moderately wooded and fit for agriculture. Lower
down they are covered alternately with pasture and
thick forests, having at intervals well-cultivated farms
and homesteads. The Saladillo flows through a saline
sandy desert, but nevertheless, near the lagoons formed
243
by the new course of the Rio Dulce, the cultivation of
cereals is possible, and even advantageous, as the lands
covered by water in the summer and autumn are fer-
tilized and left dry in the spring.
For nearly two degrees of latitude, the two rivers
Juramento and Dulce flow parallel to one another, leav-
ing a space between them varying from 15 to 25 leagues,
but which may average 20 leagues. This space is an
absolute plain of sandy clay soil, covered partly with
forest trees and partly with pasture, having some saline
districts, in the midst of which lagoons of fresh water
are found. In some places deep furrows indicate the
old bed of the Rio Dulce and traces of communication
between the two rivers.
The conformation of the land in the neighbourhood of
the Juramento and Dulce, and in the major part of the
province, is favourable to the formation of a large num-
ber of lagoons, temporary or permanent, and more or
less numerous, according as the rivers have been
abundant and the overflow of the two rivers more
violent. These lagoons receive the name of " esteros,"
whence is derived that of the province Santiago del
Estero (St. James of the Rivulet).
In the north of the province there exists a stream
called Rio de los Horcones, whose waters only reach the
Salado after very heavy rains. The difi'erent rivulets
which form the main stream take their source from the
eastern hills of Salta and Tucuman.
The nature of the soil of the province varies according
to the locality. It is composed principally of a granitic
sand in the districts bordering on the mountains of
Ancaste, in Catamarca, and of the Cordovese chain,
situated to the south and west of the Saladillo, as also
244
in the district of Guazayan. It is of a sandy, clayey
nature, and saline in all the lower borders of the Salinas,
and generally in the region of the plains, except towards
the north, where the salt disappears.
The basin of the Salinas is composed of a gritty,
sandy clay, covered everywhere by efflorescent salts.
The pools which are formed there by rain, when the
water evaporates, leave a crust of salt on the surface.
Salt is also found on the borders of the Saladillo de-
posited by evaporation of its waters.
Between the two rivers, Salado and Dulce, the soil is
of the same nature, but of a yellow colour and very
loose. Fresh water is found at a depth of from five
to twenty metres. In all this region there is a thick
stratum of vegetable earth, and near the river the land
is entirely composed of recent alluvial. Towards the
north-west the soil is firmer, more compact, and retains
more moisture, gradually mingling with the fertile
plains of Tucuman.
The saline substances, so abundant in the greater part
of the province of Santiago, are generally chloride of
sodium and sulphate of soda and magnesia, as if the
earth had originally been covered by a vast deposit of
salt water.
Fossils are sometimes found in this province, belong-
ing in the major part to the tertiary period. The re-
mains of the mammiferi, and the shells found in the
strata of the banks of the Salado and Dulce, prove the
correctness of this classification.
The climate of the province of Santiago del Estero is
usually dry. Little rain falls, except during the hot
season, that is November to March; nearly all the re-
mainder of the year the sky is clear and bright. Frost
245
is very rare, a fact that renders possible the cultivation
of tropical plants. The summer is very hot, especially
in the neighbourhood of the Salinas, where the heat
rises to 42^ Cent, This district is subject to scorching
winds, but of short duration; the north wind especially
is always intensely hot and humid, blowing sometimes
for 24 hours. The mean annual temperature of the
province varies from 20° to 24° Cent,
This climate is extremely salubrious. The only
malady peculiar to the province is ophtalmia, but less
dangerous than that of Egypt. As in Egypt, this
affection is evidently owing to the intensity of the glare,
and especially to the saline dust raised there by winds ;
this disease is most prevalent in the neighbourhood of
the Salinas.
In the places where the soil is dry and light, such as
near the Sierras, in the neighbourhood of the Salinas,
and in the plains where the waters of the Rio Dulce
become briny, the vegetation is generally meagre and
limited to a thorny species of the mimosa. But near
the two rivers, and in the long tract of land intersected
by them, and where rain moistens the soil, all the arbo-
rescent species, such as the algarrobos, the various que-
brachos, the talas, gayacs, &c., attain a great height, and
might furnish all the necessary timber for building
and carpentry. Notwithstanding the dryness of the
climate, and the scarcity of rain during one part of the
year, the forests cover at least two-thirds of the pro-
vince. In these latter a cactus grows in abundance,
which nourishes a cochineal insect of good quality. In
the saline plain immense quantities of " jume " (lycium
salsium), are found, which, as before stated, is eminently
alkaline, and grows to a metre and a half in height.
246
There is good grass land towards the south-east, on
the frontier of Santa Fe, between the lagoon Los Porongos
and Rio Salado. Wheat and maize are cultivated and
yield plentifully. After the periodic inundations of the
Salado and Dulce, which cover the neighbouring plains
with salt, wheat is sown which then yields a hundred-
fold. If irrigation canals were made from the Rio Dulce
a soil of incredible fertihty might be produced. The
sugar cane is cultivated near the capital and succeeds
well. Arrow-root is also planted there and grows
fairly. Vegetables are extremely rare, simply owing to
the apathy of the natives, who will not produce them.
As to fruit trees, the province produces in abundance
the peach, orange, fig, vine, and pomegranate ; all others
are neglected, although the country is suitable for
almost every species of European fruit and a large num-
ber of those of the tropics ; but the inhabitants are con-
tent with their natural productions.
The cultivation of cereals is considerable enough to
allow of a small export trade in flour to be carried on
with the provinces of Tucuman and Cordoba. The
produce of the sugar cane suf&ces only for the consump-
tion of the province. Tobacco is not cultivated,
although the soil is most appropriate ; neither is the cochi-
neal plant or insect utilized, although in great abun-
dance. Tobacco from Tucuman is exclusively consumed,
and the inhabitants content themselves by gathering in
small quantities the cochineal insects, which are dried
and made up into thin cakes for use as a pigment for
dyeing then' rough fabrics, and for export to a very
small extent to the neighbouring provinces.
The forests of Santiago abound with wild bees, whose
nests are found in the crevices of the trunks of elm
247
trees and even in the ground ; they produce an excel-
lent honey, known as miel depalo^ or wood honey. The
inhabitants eagerly gather this natural product, and even
extend their explorations for it to the forests on the
eastern side of the Rio Salado ; some mieleros (honey-
seekers), whilst so engaged in the Gran Chaco, have
fallen viccims to the Indians. The honey and wax col-
lected by these people constitute an article of commerce
with the coast.
The province exports both tanned and dry raw hides.
Wool is of sufficiently good quality to become an
article of export to some extent ; the advantages
derived from this trade has induced the owners to think
of improving the breed, which is small, and whose fleece
is not weighty, although naturally fine.
Manufactures in the province are few, but the women
are extremely dexterous in embroidery ; everywhere
may be seen embroidered napkins, petticoats, and cotton
laces remarkably well wrought. These pretty articles
are sent to the coast and lower provinces, where they
are much appreciated. They also spin and weave pon-
chos and coverlets, dyed with the richest colours, which
the semi-Indian race, constituting the mass of the inhabi-
tants, most ingeniously prepare from natural local sources.
The town of Santiago del Estero is the centre of
commerce for the province, and is situated on the great
northern route to Peru and Bolivia, by which passes
the principal traffic for Tucuman and Salta. It is the
only road much frequented, because the old route by way
of Santa Fe and the Chaco is not yet re-opened.
Large ferry-boats have been established on the princi-
pal passages of the Rio Dulce, which facilitate the transit,
but a bridge is absolutely needed over the Saladillo.
248
The communication between Santiago and the western
provinces is simply by bridle paths which offer no other
mconvenience than the want of habitations in the
travesias. The road to Catamarca is good and
open ; that of Rioja is much less so because of the vast
plain, part sandy and barren, which extends to the
north and north-west of the basin of the Salinas. The
roads through the district intersected by the two
rivers Dulce and Salado are perfectly practicable and
well peopled with estancias. Nearly all the roads are
practicable for carts which are used very frequently.
Some troops of mules are employed to convey produce
and merchandise, but carts are generally preferred.
The mass of the population of Santiago, i.e.^ of the
working classes, is Indian, almost pure, but now
civilised and docile ; they still, however, retain their
own language (quichua), are intelligent, industrious, and
hard-working, and rather disposed to immigrate to the
other provinces, where labour is better remunerated.
It is thus that a great number are found in the rural
departments of the province of Buenos Ayres. They
make good soldiers and are excellent horsemen, as are
Argentines generally. Their food is more vegetable
than animal, consisting of the fruit of the algarrobo,
— already described in Catamarca — and they use a fer-
mented drink called " chicha " in considerable quanti-
ties, which is much appreciated by the lower classes.
The province of Santiago del Estero is divided into 14
departments, viz., towards the centre, the Capital ; near
the town to the north, the Banda ; north-Avest upon the Rio
Dulce, Jimenez and Rio Hondo; to the west, Guazayan,
in the little Sierra of this name; and the south-Avest,
ChoUa ; to the north upon the Rio Sallado, Copo ; to the
249
east, also upon the Rio Salado, Matara ; to the south-
east upon the Rio Dulce, Robles, Silipica, Loreto,
Soconcho, Salavina; to the extreme south and in the
Sierra of this name, Sumampa.
The department of the Capital is composed only of
the town and its outskirts. Santiago is the most ancient
town in the interior of the Argentine Confederation,
having been founded in 1553 by Aguirre, one of the
first conquerors and colonisers of Tucuman, and has
been the residence of the first bishop of the province.
It is situated upon the right bank of the Rio Dulce,
on alluvial soil, absolutely flat. About half a league to
the south may be traced the old banks of the river.
The soil about the town is very fertile, although im-
pregnated with a quantity of sulphate of soda; this salt
is injurious to the buildings in attacking and gradually
destroying the foundations of the walls. They cultivate
in the environs the sugar-cane, and wheat and maize, and
some fruit trees, as also the orange, fig, pomegranate,
vine, peaches, and some dates ; few European plants are
yet imported. Vegetation is vigorous, principally in
those places subjected to irrigation, which is not difficult,
owing to the declivity of the banks of the Rio Dulce
The altitude of Santiago is 162 metres above the level
of the sea; its lat. 21^ 47' audits long, west 66^^ 42'.
This town possesses no very remarkable edifice. The
ancient church, erected in the Plaza, is in ruins, and
the front only remains, which is preserved out of respect
to its great antiquity ; it is of fair architecture. The
new parish church is small, and of the most simple form,
but of solid construction and in good order. The church
of the present college of Santo Domingo belonged for-
merly to the Jesuits ; the remains of their library is de-
? G
250
posited in one of the chambers of the convent ; their
books consist principally of treatises on theology. The
convent of San Francisco has been rebuilt, almost en-
tirely under the administration of Governor Ibarra.
Here is shown a wonderfully preserved relic, — the cell
formerly occupied by San Francisco Solano, apostle of
Tucuman and Paraguay. It contains a statue of the
saint, having suspended from its girdle the violin by
which he attracted and captivated the attention of
the Indians. The church possesses a pretty organ,
manufactured in the place by a Bolivian artist, assisted
by native workmen. The convent of " Beatorio" is a
pious establishment, founded about 21 years ago by
Dona Ana Antonia Toboada, who not only endowed it
with part of her fortune, but did what she could to col-
lect charities from the neighbouring provinces. This
convent is of the highest importance to the province, as
it . is the only establishment for the education of girls,
the elementary schools of the department being gene-
rally only adapted for boys.
Santiago possesses no other public edifice. The Go-
vernment offices are in the house formerly occupied by
the Governor Ibarra, who commanded the province for
nearly thirty years. The private houses are plain, com-
modious, and often built in adobes, or sun-dried bricks ;
their gardens are neglected, but the town nevertheless
has not a bad appearance, aided by the arborescent
veo-etation which encircles it. The outskirts are well
cultivated and support a dense population.
The river, upon the right bank of which Santiago is
built, measures 100 metres in width, is clear, and only
one metre deep during the dry season, but two or three
during the floods. It flows then with violence and con-
251
stantly destroys the banks. This is, however, sought
to be avoided by plantations of willows and poplars in
order to consolidate them and to restrain the water.
This is very necessary, as in a violent flood it might
leave its bed and cause great devastation in the town
itself.
Santiago is now progressing somewhat faster than
during the past ten years. His Excellency Don Antonio
Toboada, the actual Governor, is a man of marked talent,
and manifests the greatest desire to benefit his native
province by liberal legislative acts and the introduction
of a foreign immigration. He offers large tracts of land
to be settled upon, and doubtless, when the prolonga-
tion of the Central Argentine, or other line, reaches this
vast territory, most valuable tracts of now desert land
will be eagerly cultivated.
From the lie of the country I would venture to prog-
nosticate a brilliant success in agriculture by a judicious
system of irrigation. There is abundance of water in
the Rio Dulce, on the borders of Tucuman, and large
canals might be cut with comparative facility and at mo-
derate cost, following the natural declivity of the surface
southwards. If, for example, the track of the Central
Argentine Railway should pass in a straight line from
Devisaderos in Cordoba to Tucuman, instead of deviating
westwards to the Horqueta in Catamarca, it would em-
brace a new and important district which might be fer-
tilized by a large canal from the head waters of the Dulce,
cut parallel to the railway, and serving the double pur-
pose of supplying fresh water for the locomotives as
well as for domestic use and agriculture.
This is, however, a problem which only the explora-
tion and survey now being made will determine. But
252
if carried out, the whole of that vast territory might be-
come, within the next twenty years, an immense indigo
and sugar plantation. We find at the present moment
a very large extent of country covered with the indi-
genous plant (indigo/era tinctoria)^ and whose crudely
manufactured indigo is of excellent quality.
The National Government, in its rapid march of pro-
gress, is now having the province traversed by the elec-
tric wire, and within a few months instantaneous com-
munication with the capital will be in active operation.
One of the most striking features in passing through
the province of Santiago is the almost total absence of
horned cattle along the line of road. Although there
are fair pasture lands and dense forests about, it is evi-
dent that the want of water is the only cause which
exists to prevent the rearing and breeding of cattle in
large numbers ; yet, as I have before stated, nearly all
the water of two fine rivers is allowed to overflow and
waste itself in shallow saline basins, inutilizing the soil,
and making the transit over those parts extremely diffi-
cult and dangerous.
Population, 1869 :— City, 8,719 ; country, 124,525;
total, 133,244.
253
PROVINCE OF CORDOBA.
GENERAL PHYSICAL ASPECT, DESCRIPTION OF SOIL,
CLIMATE, &c.
The Province of Cordoba, the most central of the Ar-
gentine Confederation, is situated between 29° 40" and
34° south lat., and 64° and 67° 30' west long. (Paris).
It thus embraces an area of about 6,000 square leagues.
Its limits to the north and south are nearly the two
parallels which we have just indicated; that of the north
coincides with the lagoons of Los Porongos and the bor-
ders of the Salinas ; that of the south with the great pam-
pas, abandoned to the Indians, which extend to the
other side of the Rio Quinto. To the west, the line of
Quebracho Herrado, of Arroyo de las Tortugas, and its
prolongation towards the south, separates it from Santa
Fe. To the east, the extremity of the Salinas forms its
limit with the provinces of La Rioja and San Juan ; the
little Sierra de la Lomita, the Rio de la Cruz, and the
Sierra de la Estanzuela separate it from San Luis.
The general aspect of this province is that of a vast
plain, of which the declivity inclines from west to east,
towards the Rio Parand, and in the midst of which rises
a high granitic mountain chain, perfectly isolated. This
i^ile of mountains is very abrupt towards the west ; it is
254
less rugged and more undulating towards the east and
south. Upon these two points the declivity terminates
in rich fertile pampas, which resemble those of Santa Fe,
Buenos Ayres, and the Indian territory towards the
south. On the summit of this range is a plateau, at an
elevation of 2,000 metres above the sea, suitable only for
cattle. At 1,000 metres is another plateau, where the
soil and climate are suitable for cultivation. The nume-
rous valleys, opening at various points, are clothed with a
rich vegetation. From these heights descend numerous
streams and rivers, utilized in cultivation on the plains,
and of these the principal unite in forming the four
chief rivers of the province.
The Rio Tercero, the principal river of the province,
rises from the south-western summit of the ridge, and
flows through nearly the entire province, watering
Villa Nueva, Frayle Muerto (Belville), and eventually
falling into the Parana ten leagues above Rosario. The
other rivers are designated as follows, commencing at
the north : —
The Rio Primero is formed by the union of the several
rivulets watering the valleys of the range to W.N.W. of
Cordoba ; it descends as a rapid stream into the plain, and
flows into the little valley, or narrow hollow, where is
situated the capital of the province. No part is navi-
gable, but its waters are most valuable for irrigation,
which fertihses the suburbs and surrounding country.
The Rio Primero flows through the valley of Cordoba,
takes an E.N.E. direction, and is lost in the pampas
not far from Mar Chiquita, where its waters arrive by
a series of shallow marshes. Inundations, arising from
the swelling of its waters during the rainy seasons, are
sometimes dangerous to the town of Cordoba.
255
The Rio Segundo is not so important as the preceding ;
it is formed of two principal branches, — the one Rio de
Sansacate and the other Segundo proper ; these unite
in debouching from the mountain range. The Segundo
thus forms a river of moderate depth, about 100 metres
broad, and is navigable in certain parts. When freshets
come down its course is parallel to that of Rio Primero,
from which it is separated by a distance of nine leagues,
and, flowing in the same direction, like it, teminates
in shallow marshes at a short distance from Mar Chiquita,
but with which, however, it is sometimes connected.
These two rivers are quite analogous in their form and
the direction of their waters.
The Rio Cuarto flows towards the south-east, and is
formed, like the Tercero, in the high valleys of the Cum-
bres de Lutis, which is the most southern plateau of the
range. Large and rapid, but of little depth, it arrives
at the rising town of Concepcion del Rio Cuarto,
the second in importance in the province of Cordoba ;
then, reaching the middle of the pampas, south, its
watci's rre lost in shallow pools, where it becomes
brackish, and, reuniting, under the name of Rio Sala-
dillo, they flow into the Rio Tercero, near the village
of this name. This river, without being navigable,
has a volume of water sufficiently strong for the pur-
pose of irrigating a large tract of country.
All the other watercourses of the province of Cordoba
are only rivulets from the mountains, whose waters are
utilized entirely for irrigation, and which only reach a
short distance into the plain. Those which flow east-
ward in part fall into the rivers we have just mentioned,
and those on the west of the range, such as Rios de los
Sauces, Soto, Pichama, Del Eje, &c., &c., are lost in the
256
neighbourhood of the Salinas. The number of these
watercourses is unfortunately very limited, but without
them there would be no absolute security for agriculture,
because of the dryness of the soil and seasons in this
region.
The north-east of the province of Cordoba presents a
very remarkable system of waters but little known until
the present time. The group of lagoons in which the
Rio Dulce is lost is designated Los Porongos, and there
is another very large lagoon, called Mar Chiquita, or little
sea.
The southern shore of this latter was explored in 1861,
by the ingenuity of Laberge, who followed the traces' of
the Rio Primero and the Rio Segundo, which discharge
their surplus waters into it. It is thought by the inhabi-
tants that Mar Chiquita forms an immense lagoon, of
which the greatest extent is from west to east, and that
it unites with those of Los Porongos by another inter
mediate lagoon, called Del Soldado, and by shallow
canals, sometimes dry and sometimes filled with water.
What renders it difiicult to gain a knowledge of these
shallows is that the waters are sometimes saline and
sometimes not so ; the muddy borders render walking
extremely difficult, owing to the acquatic plants of every
species which grow about and form a sort of moving
morass. All the country comprised between lat. 30°
and 31° and long. 64° and 65° forms a vast basin, into
which the rain water falls, and whence there is no issue
except by evaporation. The Mar Chiquita has fewer
islands than Los Porongos, its borders are absolutely
smooth, and the waters advance or recede according
to the winds, sometimes revealing uncovered a long
slimy beach where salt is found and collected. There
257
are some dwellings in the neighbourhood of the lake,
and in some places sweet water is found by digging wells,
while in others the earth consists of layers of saline
sandy clay. The district is wooded, but almost en-
tirely with the thorny mimosa. It is in this basin that
the Rio Dulce is lost, and the swellings of this river have
a great influence upon the height of the waters in the
lake, which are highest in January (summer) and
lowest in winter. The northern borders are slightly
elevated, but to the south and south-east the}' are every-
where low and marshy, nearly all the neighbouring
region being excessively flat ; from the nature of the
land the waters do not reach any considerable distance.
The soil of the eastern plain of Cordoba is similar to that
of the provinces of Santa Fe and Buenos Ayres, namely,
a rich vegetable earth, more or less thick, and forming
a superstratum of black clay, saline in some places, but
producing beautiful pastures. These plains have re-
ceived the name of the " Pampa." There are trees only
as we approach the mountain range, and the wood is
poor and thorny, being composed principally of chanar,
espinillo, or algarrobo, all belonging to the mimosa
species. These woods increase in extent towards the
Mar Chiquita, and mingle with those of Santa F^.
Towards the south the eye wanders over an immense
grassy plain, slightly undulating. In the region of the
mountains the soil is generally granitic, but there are
plateaux and valleys where the earth is suitable for the
production of every agricultural species. In the plain,
which commences in a westerly direction, it is clayey and
a little saline, being, however, very light and fertile by
the aid of irrigation. All the valleys which are open to
this side are wooded with trees of good height, and those
258
species which on the eastern side are poor and stunted,
such as the chanar, algarrobo, and talas, attain in this
region their full development. The most elevated pla-
teaux of the range are those which constitute its summit,
and, where the rock is not absolutely bare, produce a
short thick turf on which sheep thrive well.
The climate on the plain of Cordoba is similar to that
of Santa Fe and Entre Rios, but the winter is always
drier and more healthy than at Buenos Ayres. On
approaching the mountains rains are rare in winter, but
from October to March (spring and summer) they are
abundant ; hence the necessity of irrigation for the pur-
poses of agriculture. The temperature is regulated ac-
cording to the altitude of the place; its lowest is 16°
Cent, in the capital, which is 400 metres above the level
of the sea. It sometimes freezes, with snow, although
rarely. In the mountain districts it freezes more in-
tensely, but the frosts are of short duration, and the
snow lies only on the top of the mountains, as the
heavens are nearly always radiant with the sun. The
temperature of all the plateaux, whose altitude is not
greater than 1,200 metres, is generally mild, as is e^^.-
dent from the palm tree flourishing at this altitude.
The western districts are much warmer, because of their
proximity to the Salinas of the Llanos. The prevailing
winds are south and north ; in summer the rains are
almost always accompanied by thunderstorms.
The salubrity of this climate is perfect, and the public
health excellent. Indeed m no part of the Republic is
the climate more suitable to invalids than at Cordoba.
For affections of the chest especially it is not to be sur-
passed perhaps in the world, and doubtless, when com-
munication with Europe becomes more general and
259
less expensive, it will be resorted to by many, hitherto
frequenters of Madeira and other places, not now so
efficatious as was formerly supposed.
The altitude of some parts and general vast extent of
the province, and nature of the soil, necessarily varies
vegetation considerably. The plain produces only
a species of long prairie grass, whilst, in the mountain
districts, we find trees and shrubs, with good soft grass,
covering a vast extent of country. In the plains,
near Mar Chiquita, and in general all those north
of 32° parallel, there are fine stretches of park land and
true forests. These are composed principally of algar-
robos, iiandubays, talas, quebrachos (red and white),
chanar, &c., and m the mountains, brea,jarilla,talaquillo,
palm, &c. The arborescent plants are principally of the
family of mimosa, and usually thorny. These woods
suffice only for local consumption.
Agriculture in Cordoba is limited to the production
of wheat and maize necessary for the population, the
most common vegetables, and fodder, more especially
lucerne. Arborculture is neglected, although the
soil and climate are suitable for almost all fruit trees.
The vine, for which the soil is admirably adapted, is not
cultivated. The apple tree is the only one cultivated
in sufficient quantities, and might produce excellent
cider if the people would only dedicate themselves to it.
The variety of the soil, temperature, and situation of
the province of Cordoba is admirably suited for all
European plants and trees, as well as a large number of
those of the tropics.
The scarcity of rain during one part of the year
(winter) renders irrigation indispensable for agriculture
in most southern parts of the province ; for this purpose
260
the rivulets are utilized, but the rivers Primero, Segundo,
Tercero, and Cuarto would furnish water for very large
tracts of land towards the east, as well as those of the
mountainous district, and for the plains towards the
pampas. Little attention is, however, paid to this im-
portant question, which later on must be successfully
worked out, and will undoubtedly be a source of great
wealth to those who initiate it.
The principal commerce is in the exportation of cattle
to the Andine provinces for Chili, to Buenos Ayres, and
to Santa Fe, for the slaughter house, together with the
hides of those slaughtered for local consumption in the
province. There is a large trade in live cattle for the
numerous carts in the transport service from Tucuman
to the Parand. Mules are sent in large numbers to the
neighbouring provinces and to Bolivia. Wool was also
a lucrative source of exportation, principally to and
from the towns of Villa Nueva and Frayle Muerto (now
Belville). Goat skins are also exported in large numbers.
A little wheat only is sent to the coast ; the remainder
is consumed in the province, while, from the neglected
culture of the vine, they are obliged to buy the wines
of Rioja and San Juan, as well as the dry figs of Cata-
marca.
There is, however, some little animation in manufac-
tures. Hides are tanned and imitation morocco
leather produced, whilst boots and shoes for the adjacent
provinces are made in fair quantities. They also manu-
facture coarse woollen fabrics of excellent quality, such
as "jergas," or rough blankets and coverlets for beds, in
brilliant colours and pretty patterns, which are very
durable.
Its central position in the continent of South America
261
must always make Cordoba the centre of extensive
commercial transit, and its capital must necessarily be-
come the entrepot for all the interior. The facilities
of communication with the coast now established by
railway and steamboat contribute greatly to its growing
activity and importance, and it is fast becoming the
favourite resort for Bolivian merchants, who prefer having
their merchandize by way of Cordoba, to crossing the
Andes and purchasing in Peru or the western ports of
the Pacific.
Notwithstanding the height of the mountain range
which occupies the central part of the province, the
communication is everywhere easy. The first and
most important route is that of the ancient road from
the capital to Rosario, about 113 leagues, which is now of
course obsolete, the railway being completed. That
to Santa Fe, although well traced, is not much fre-
quented. The one from Cordoba to Santiago and Tu-
cuman, to the north, is the ancient highroad to Peru
and Bolivia, and is tolerably good and level. The other
road , to the south, unites with that of Rosario to Men-
doza at the town of Rio Cuarto. Communication with
Rioja and Catamarca are made almost uniform by
carriage ways, rounding the northern point of the Sierra,
and crossing the great Salinas to Horqueta and Don
Diego. The mountain range, in its central part, is
cut by the direct route to San Juan and Rioja, and is
now an excellent cart road, with post-houses and reser-
voirs for water. Diligences are now established upon
all these roads once a week for Tucuman, Rioja, Cata-
marca, Rio Cuarto, Mendoza, and San Juan, which are
sufficient for the present intercourse, and can be increased
whenever the exigencies of trade require it The least
262
frequented of these roads is that of Santa Fe, all busi-
ness being centred in Rosario. Of course the most im-
portant of all means of transit is the Central Argentine
Railway, now opened from Kosario to Cordoba, 247 miles.
The province is divided into fourteen departments.
The sections comprised in the mountain district are : —
Tulumba, Rio Seco, Ischilin, the Pumilla (distinguished
as Cruz del Eje), Pocho, San Javier, and Rio Cuarto.
The sections comprised in the plain are : — The Capital,
Anejos (distinguished as Riode Zeballos), Calamuchita,
Rio Tercero Arriba, Rio Tercero Abajo, Rio Segundo,
and Santa Rosa.
There are few large towns in the province. After
the capital there are only Santa Rosa, Rio Cuarto, Villa
Nueva, Frayle Muerto, Rosario de los Ranchos, Tulumba,
Rio Seco, San Francisco del Chanar, and San Pedro de
los Sauces. All the others are villages, or rather ham-
lets, with a few houses grouped around the church.
The numerous estates or farms are scattered about the
environs or on the approaches to the towns and valleys.
Wherever there is a stream of water suitable for irriga-
tion small farms stud its banks. The great estancias
of the plain are generally near a lagoon, or an artificial
reservoir, where their animals can allay their thirst.
The department of the capital is limited to the town of
Cordoba, with its precincts, and is surrounded entirely
by that of Los Anejos, which extends from Santo Do-
mingo to Alta Gracia, along the mountains, sixteen
leagues north to south, and ten broad.
The town of Cordoba, founded in 1573, was the
ancient capital of Tucuman during the Spanish dominion.
It is situated about four leagues from the mountains, at
an altitude of 1,200 feet above the level of the sea, in Sl'^
25* south^titude. It is built in a valley, on low ground,
originally formed by deposits during floods, and on the
borders of the Rio Primero. The banks, whose summits
form the level of the pampas, surrounding the town, are
very steep, and measure about 60 feet in height. Now
the Rio Primero flows altogether on the north side,
where its banks are perpendicular, whilst those on the
south side form a gentle declivity. This conformation
of the soil places Cordoba in a sort of sandy hollow, and
subjects it to inundations, not only from the river, but
from torrents, for the most part of the year dry, but
which increase considerably in the rainy season, and are
only restrained in their force by a solid stone wall, first
constructed in 1671 under the government of Peredo.
On 31st January, 1863, an enormous body of water,
similar to that of 1st May, 1823, half a century before,
threatened the existence of the town, and produced
great devastation, but by various improvements in the
breakwater these disasters are no longer feared.
Cordoba is well built, and contains several substantial
edifices, among them the Cabildo, constructed at the
commencement of this century by the Marquis of Sobre-
monte; the cathedral, finished in the 17th century; and
eight other churches, besides convents. The streets,
marking the four cardinal points, are at right angles, and
each block or manzana contains four acres. The cuadra
(front of each block) is 150 Spanish varas long, and the
houses are consequently on a grand scale. The streets
are not paved (with one exception), which is, however,
not of much consequence, as the decomposed granitic
sand, which forms the surface, makes good roads, and
each street is furnished with footways flagged with
granite or marble.
264
The most ornamental buildings are the Cabildo, or
Hotel de Ville, in which are the Government Offices, and
the cathedral, a noble edifice, well constructed, of a
composite architecture, and the dome of which is most
effective. The interior is ornamented with pilasters, in
part overlaid with beautiful marble from the neighbour-
ing mountains; the altars and walls are adorned by
some choice pictures. After the cathedral of Buenos
Ayres, that of Cordoba, with the Matriz of Tucuman
and the church of Uruguay, are the finest edifices in
the Argentine Confederation.
To the Marquis of Sobremonte, one of the Spanish
Viceroys or Governors, Cordoba is indebted for a very
picturesque promenade. This is situated about 600
yards from the principal Plaza or square, and consists
of a grand quadrangular basin of water, measuring
100 metres each side, planted all round with double
rows of poplars and willows, and enclosed with iron
railings. There is a wide promenade between the ave-
nues of trees, and rustic sofas are placed around at
convenient distances. With the lateral streets this
promenade occupies nearly six acres, and communicates
on the south with the centre, of the town by a long
avenue ; on the west, it is surrounded by lovely quintas^
or country houses, with fruit gardens, forming a large
district, divided into squares like the town, and well
planted with trees along the streets, which makes it
most pleasing during the sweltering heat of summer.
These gardens are irrigated by small canals from the
Rio Primero, and are of surpassing fertility. Here all
the principal townsfolk live during summer, and pass a
most agreeable existence amongst delicious fruit trees
and cool rippling streams of limpid water.
265
After the cathedral may be mentioned the churches
of the convents of La Merced, San Francisco, Santa
Catalina, and Santa Teresa, which are all of modern
construction, and in the best condition, owing to the
superb marbles which the native mountains furnish in
abundance. It would be easy and inexpensive to utilize
this fine material for the formation of public edifices
and private houses, but Cordoba has hitherto not been
fortunate enough to possess artisans who could work it
to advantage.
The church of the University, formerly that of the
Jesuits, and built by them in 1671, is grand and beauti-
ful in the interior, although now entirely neglected.
Over the high altar is a fine old painting of the cruci-
fixion, said to be from the brush of Peter Paul Reubens,
and presented by him to the Jesuits. It is a magnifi-
cent building, and formerly the college of Saint Charles
was attached to it. The whole of this edifice has now
become .the property of the National Government, and
the University and Preparatory Colleges are established
here. The buildmgs sadly required restoration, and are
being gradually attended to by the Government authori-
ties.
There is also in the town an hospital with sixty beds,
which is sufiicient for the wants of the population. It
is annexed to the church of San Roque, and is supported
by the public revenue and voluntary contributions. It is
under the direction of the Sisters of Charity, who came
from France some years ago. The three monasteries
contain a good number of friars, but the Jesuits have
been expelled for many years past. The two nunneries
are limited, — that of the Catalinas to 40, that of Teresas to
24 inmates, and vacancies are filled from the postulants,
2 I
266
who have to pay a dower of 2,000 hard dollars. These
convents are well maintained, and have sufficient property
to support them and for charitable purposes.
The Bishopric of Cordoba — first created in 1699 —
has recently been re-established. The Chapter is com-
plete.
Cordoba at one time possessed a mint, which coined
only silver of "750 milesimos fine, but it is no longer
allowed to work ; the National Government only having
the right to coin. The metal coined was the produce
of the mines in the department of Pochi. There are
two s.team mills, and several harracas or large deposits
for country produce, for which this place is a great
entrepot. '
The press is fairly represented in Cordoba, and three
daily newspapers, very creditably edited, retail the cur-
rent events. The most important is the Eco de Cor-
doba, edited by Dr. Luis Velez, a clever young lawyer,
who was formerly Minister of the province, and who is
now Deputy to the National Congress. He is assisted
by his brother, Don Ignacio Velez, and his cousin, Don
Adolfo Mansilla, who share the editorial labours. The
principles of this journal are Liberal, and it supports
warmly the present national administration.
The next in importance is the Progreso^ edited by
Dr. Ramon Gil-Navarro, and represents the Conserva-
tive or Federal interests.
The third is an insignificant journal, -E7 Constitucional^
merely published for political ends, and supported more
by private individuals than the public ; its principles are
Radical, and the editors are many — amongst them Dr.
Nicolas Pefialoza.
In the neighbourhood of the capital is an ancient
267
Indian village called " El Pueblito," now consisting
only of a few half-breeds. This is the last remnant of
the aborigines of the valley. They do little in agricul-
ture, and only breed a few goats and cows. Their ap-
pearance and habits are disgusting, and they form the
worst element of disorder in times of political excite-
ment.
The impulse which the completion of the Central
Argentine Railway has given to commerce and agricul-
ture in the province of Cordoba is almost incredible, and
the enormous increase in the value of land and house
property there is such as is only experienced in the new
countries of the western world.
The numerous agricultural colonies springing up
along the line of railway testify to the advantages de-
rived by increasing the facilities of communication and
intercourse with the coast and capital of the Republic.
At Belville, and other places on the track, may now be
seen in active operation the steam plough, with all the
most advanced and modern agricultural machinery,
which, in a country like this — sparse of labourers or
other population — is almost a sine qua non for success
Land, which was purchased there six years ago for £150
a square league (6,768 acres), is now worth from £300
to £500, and in the course of six years more will doubt-
less be worth double or treble this sum. The new
Land Company, formed in London to colonize 900,000
acres of the Central Argentine Railway lands, will give
such a stimulus to those districts that withm ten years
from this time the province will be so transforiped as to
be unrecognizable to the most familiar denizen of the
country.
Those lands will undoubtedly fetch an average of £l
268
per acre, and the amount of produce which must natu-
rally follow their development will in itself form an im-
portant source of revenue for the railway.
To populate the lands, as contemplated by the new
company, will require about 9,000 families, which may
be taken at an average of four to each, resulting in
36,000 producers. These, as they go on prospering,
will assuredly induce their relatives and connections in
Europe to join them, and when all the company's lands
—six miles in breadth — shall have been occupied, the
adjoining ones on each side of the track must begin
gradually to be peopled ; hence, once a certain nucleus
of population shall have been formed along a tract of
country six miles wide by 250 in length, it is easy to
predicate the lasting success and profitable future of
this great national undertaking.
/ Another great source of prosperity will be the grow-
/ ing of flax and utilizing of its products m the manufac-
ture of linens, an article of great consumption all over
South America. Already a sturdy and intelligent pio-
neer in this branch of industry has struck the first blow,
and planted the germ of success on the pampa. To Mr.
Henly is due the merit of initiating this most valuable
culture in the Argentine Republic, and his efforts deserve
well of the country, its Government and its people. He
has taken out with him to Belville a large number of
young men, selected from the ranks of the most respec-
table agricultural classes in England, and, with such a
basis as a beginning, no fears need be entertained of his
ultimate success.
His experiments in the River Plate territories have
been already most successful in this dii'ection, and the
flax produced on virgin soil, without manure and with
269
very ordinary care and tillage, has turned out superior
to almost any yet produced by the best systems of cul-
ture in Europe. Its fibre is long and tough, and manu-
facturers will doubtless ere long eagerly seek to pur-
chase it in preference to the European staple.
The produce in cereals this year (1870), as I have
been credibly informed, will, in the province of Cordoba
alone, be more than sufficient for the consumption of
the riverine provinces, which have hitherto drawn their
supplies from Chili and the Andine districts, of course
at high prices from the distance and freights. This is
a most encouraging feature in a young country and for
a new agricultural district. In short, when I look back
at the state of the country even five years ago, and com-
pare it with its present condition, I am so astonished
with its progress that only positive data and figures can
convince me of its reality. But when I consider what
the next ten years, with peace and tranquillity, and with
constitutional and enlightened Governments, may do, I
am confounded, and really afraid to express my honest
conviction as to the enormous strides in progress, wealth,
and civilization which the Argentine Republic is des-
tined most assuredly to make.
The town of Rio Cuarto, owing to the extension of
the railway from Villa Maria, will soon assume a degree
of importance hitherto denied it. This line has just been
contracted for by a London firm, and will be completed
in 1873. The distance from Villa Maria to Rio Cuarto
is only 82 miles. But this branch will secure to the
trunk line of railway all the western traffic which
hitherto passed on carts to Rosario direct ; as the owners
of produce very justly observe that, after passing some
20 or 25 days with their carts across the pampa, it is
270
not worth their while to transfer their goods to the
train at Villa Maria, which is only three or four days'
extra march from Rosario. From Rio Cuarto it will be
different, as the distance is greater, and the difficulties
of the road between it and Villa Maria, including the
crossing of two rivers, will be sufficient to induce them
to make Rio Cuarto their terminus, and transfer all the
goods to the railway. Land and house j)roperty has
increased in value enormously about this town.
Villa Nueva is another important town, situate on the
south side of the Rio Tercero, and immediately in front
of the railway station at Villa Maria. This latter has
grown up, as if by magic, in the midst of a wilderness,
which the author remembers a few years ago as the fa-
vourite haunt of wild deer and the scene of frequent
nocturnal invasions by the red man of the pampa. Now
it is studded with handsome little edifices, amongst them
two or three fine hotels. Business is very brisk, and all
day long the yells of the noisy waggon driver, and un-
bearable screeching of the wooden-axled, cumbrous
carretas resound through the forest, and wake up
stirring echoes, which, although not melodious, proclaim
the march of civilization and commerce.
Farther east, and nearer Rosario, is situated Belville
— formerly Frayle Muerto, — the centre of British agri-
cultural enterprise in the River Plate. This little village
is now the property of a gentleman of energy and indus-
trious perseverance, who, by sheer determination to
succeed, has succeeded, in establishing a thriving colony
composed of some of the first blood of our English
landed gentry. To Mr. Melrose is due the mtroduction
of the steam plough to South America, and our worthy
President, Senor Sarmiento, paid him a very high compli-
271
ment on his achievements when recently on a visit to
the colony. It was during this visit (in February, 1870)
that his Excellency wiped out the name of Frayle Muerto
(Dead Friar), and in true American style, having ascer-
tained who was the first English settler there (Mr. Bell),
proclaimed to the assembled guests that thenceforth it
should bear the name of Belville. Immediately on his
return to the capital, the President addressed a long
note to the author, detailing the experience he gathered
in that memorable trip to the provinces, which will
doubtless stimulate the rapid development of their agri-
cultural resources.
I cannot do better than translate, almost literally, his
Excellency's most able letter, and although it has been
already published in some of the leading journals of the
world's metropolis, it may prove interesting to those
whose notice it may j)robably have escaped : —
The President of the Republic
to Major F. Ignacio Rickard.
Buenos Atres, Feh. 12th, 1870.
My Esteemed Friend,
Your letter just received contains some valuable sug-
gestions. As you observe, the great question for this
country is that of immigration, and your communication,
informing me that philanthropists and capitalists pro-
pose to encourage it, reached me just two days after my
return from Cordoba, Santa Fe, and Entre Rios, where
I had proceeded, accompanied by all the foreign Minis-
ters (with the exception of the English representative),
in order to inspect for myself the colonies formed by
Germans, Swiss, and Italians. The result of this jour-
ney will be of immense importance, and the indications
in your letter tend to confirm my convictions.
272
What I have seen surpassed all that I could possibly
have anticipated. The efforts to cultivate the land in
Santa Fe and Cordoba have proved extraordinarily suc-
cessful. In nineteen colonies, some of them with eight
square leagues (72 square miles) under cultivation, all
the families, each possessing twenty cuadras (80 acres)
enjoy the greatest abundance. The President of the
Municipality of Esperanza stated in his speech what,
perhaps, has never been before said in any community,
— '"'■ Here^ sir^ we are all ricliP And he spoke the truth.
The same, and perhaps greater prosperity, exists in all
the other colonies.
In Frayle Muerto, now named Belville, a number
of young Englishmen have, with equal success, com-
menced the cultivation of the pampa, bringing into
operation steam ploughs and all the most perfect me-
chanical appliances employed in English agriculture.
Many are now rich, and propose to extend the sphere of
their labours. In Caiiada de Gomez, on the lands of
the Central Argentine Railway, another experiment has
been made by the son-in-law of Mr. Wheelwright, with
the best results yet obtained, having, for instance, culti-
vated, sown, and reaped in ten months a square mile,
the produce of which almost covered the total original
outlay. Thus, 4,000 leagues of land may, in four years,
be brought under cultivation, if we have colonists willing
to take them at moderate prices, and with long terms
for payment of the purchase money. The colonists of
Santa Fe have, within the second or third year at
furthest, discharged their original liabilities, which in-
cluded the cost of the land and advances for provisions,
implements, homesteads, and live stock. One colonist
has erected a mill at a cost of £10,000 sterling, and he
273
boasts thfit he had not more than five francs in his pocket
when he arrived in the country. The province of Santa
Fe offers, by a law of the Legislature, 1,000 leagues of
land for sale at the rate of about £30 for every 80 acres,
to be paid within five years. The Gran Chaco Railway
possesses 190 leagues, which the proprietors are desirous
to colonize as early as possible, and the province of Cor-
doba has all the country which has been conquered this
year from the Indians between Rio Cuarto and Rio
Quinto. The National Government can dispose of two
leagues along the route of the railway, already contracted
for, between the Rio Cuarto and Villa Maria. I need
not mention to you the Chaco and Missions, for they are
more distant from the populated portions of the Re-
public.
Therefore you need have no anxiety with reference
to lands nor the favourable conditions on which they
may be acquired. They are here ready for you, whether
along the navigable rivers or opened up by railway
communication, and sufficient for the location of 100,000
families !
The most important point, however, and to which I
would call your earnest attention — is the selection of
the immigrants, and our aim should be, if possible, to
obtain those from the North of Europe, and Englishmen
in particular. But I fear that, through the mistaken
sentiments of philanthropy, the excess of population in
the great cities — people little fitted for the labours of
the field and frequently ill-prepared for hard work —
may be sent to these countries.
I am aware that such is the state of things created in
the rural districts in England by the extensive applica-
tion of machinery and capital to agriculture on a large
2K
274
scale, that the small tenant farmers and labourers can-
not find the means of subsistence. These are the
people who ought to be preferred, and intelligent philan-
thropists should direct their efforts to provide means for
their conveyance out and settlement. Within two years
they would be in a position to repay all that had been
advanced to them, and would have raised themselves to
the position of proprietors — comparatively rich and
happy.
For a distance of eighty miles the railway was laid
down, as you know, upon the surface of the plains, with-
out the necessity of raising earthworks.
The first great work here is to plough ; the second to
reap.
The colonies of Santa Fe were formed by giving to
each family 80 acres of land, a rancho or house, a plough,
a yoke of oxen, and subsistence for a year ; and, in ge-
neral, all has been repaid in three years at the outside.
The Legislature of Santa Fe solicited from the National
Government their guarantee for a million hard dollars
to make advances to and secure the introduction of
colonists, but the Congress refused their assent to the
proposal. If associations could be organised in England
to send out agricultural colonists, the land will serve as
a guarantee for the advances made.
It is, therefore, important that you should make known
the advantages which exist here, and which are not now
so positive in the United States, where mechanics and
artizans are preferred, because the American agricultu-
rists are themselves more suitable than European
labooi'ers for farming operations in that territory.
You may, in view of these facts and data, which are
unquestionable, for I have myself collected them on the
275
spot, after having conversed with the colonists in every
direction, assure those interested in emigration that in no
country whatever can settlers secure superior or more
tangible advantages. The impulse is given, and that
part of the territory which lies between the Parana and
the Rio Quinto is destined to become the arena of a
dense and rapidly increasing population, to the vast
profit of the country and its inhabitants.
My entire journey through those districts, though
fatiguing from the heat, has been a real march of plea-
sure and triumph, marked by cordial expressions of
kindness from people of all nations, equally with our
own, the populations universally appreciating the benefits
of peace, which has now taken permanent root in the
country.
I may observe that the mode of settlement adopted
in the English colony of Belville, Caiiada de Gomez, &c.,
appears to me to be superior to all others ; and shows me
what might be done here by 4,000 or 6,000 young Eng-
lishmen, with a certain amount of capital and machinery,
and possessing that intelligence which has created such
enchantmg homesteads in Great Britain.
The frontiers are now secure against invasion, and
northwards have been carried back to the Paso del Rei ;
Octavian tranquillity and peace reign in the interior;
and as to the credit of the Republic, you in London can l
judge more correctly than we can. My desire is to
render these elements fruitful, and as far as possible to
transform our pastoral into agricultural industry by
means of an extensive system of immigration, which, as
I have already said, I prefer to be English.
Hasten forward the conclusion of your work, and re-
turn as soon as possible. Inspire capitalists with confi-
276
dence in the country ; above all agitate the question of
Agricultural Emigration, and command the support of
your sincere friend,
D. F. Sarmiento.
The sentiments expressed in the foregoing note do
honour to the ruler of the Argentine nation, and ought to
prove to us the vivid interest he takes in the peopling of
his country by British colonists. He has passed many
years amongst our half-brothers in the great Republic of
the north, and is fully convinced of the great superiority
of the Anglo-Saxon race.
I will conclude this sketch of the province of Cordoba
by simply stating that I consider it, and the adjoining
province of Santa Fe, as destined to outstrip all the
others in the rapid development of their pastoral and
agricultural wealth. They have enlightened and wise
Governments, directed by men whose interests are
bound up in the prosperity of the country, and who will
not hesitate to make every personal sacrifice to ensure
its success and advancement.
Population, 1869.— City, 34,476; country, 181,765;
total, 216,241.
MINERAL RESOURCES, &c.
This province, from its geographical situation, proxi-
mity to the centres of commerce and population on the
coast, and superior facilities for transport and communi-
cation, may be regarded as one of the most important,
as respects its vast, but still undeveloped mineral wealth.
From a commercial point of view, it is perhaps entitled
to rank at the head of the other provinces, for, though
its ores are not so rich in silver as those of Rioja, they
are of greater mercantile value, owing to their abun-
277
dance and the existence of easy and cheap means of
transport to European markets. The mines of Cordoba
are, therefore, well worthy of the serious attention of
capitalists at home and abroad.
Mining operations are at present carried on to a very
limited extent, and these with neither energy, enterprise,
nor spirit. This is partly due to the restricted capital
employed, and the want of practical knowledge on the
part of the miners themselves. Besides, nearly all the
mines are invaded by water at a depth of 15 fathoms,
and though the quantity is comparatively inconsiderable,
it is sufficiently important to defy the feeble efforts
made for its suppression by the aid of leathern bags and
badly constructed lifts.
The mines of Cordoba can only be efficiently drained
and worked by the aid of steam engines, with good
pumps. The ground and district are favourable for
the transport and erection of such machinery ; there is
also abundance of fuel, and the completion of the new
cart road from Cordoba to San Juan will render the
mines easily accessible and place them in facile com-
munication with each other.
The silver lead mining districts of the province are
situate on the far side of the high Sierra to the west of
the city, and at a distance by the carriage road of 40
leagues, more or less, but, by crossing the mountains
in a direct line, a saving of at least ten leagues is
effected. There are two districts of special importance,
those of Guayco and Ojo de Agua, respectively lo-
cated in the departments of Minas and Cruz del Eje.
The copper mining district is at the eastern foot of
the Sierra, south of the capital, and by road is situate
at a distance of 16 leagues. This road is level and
278
goocl, and the district itself is in the department of
Calamuchita.
MINERAL DISTRICT OF ARGENTINA OR OJO DE AGUA.
The only mine at work in this district was the
Compania^ belonging to the Messrs. Roque Brothers.
It is much worked out, gutted superficially, and ex-
hausted to the lowest accessible levels. These are at
a vertical depth of only twenty fathoms and in water.
The vein runs from west to east ; 22 degrees to the
north, towards which it has also an inclination or dip of
45 degrees. It is about nine inches in width, and was
stated to be in beneficio in the lower levels, with
argentiferous galenas, holding 177 ounces of silver to
the ton ; but, the water preventing personal inspection,
I am unable to confirm this assertion. There is a ver-
tical shaft sunk on the lode 45 metres in depth, which
Messrs. Roque now utilize for the manufacture of lead
shot.
This lode has yielded rich silver ores on the surface,
principally " warm metals" (chlorides), which were
then beneficiated by amalgamation; but this system
has now been abandoned in the district, as nearly all
the veins, on being followed in depth, are found to
consist of argentiferous galenas, or sulphides of lead
with silver. This mine was worked from the year 1835
to 1861, with two or three intervals of paralyzation, and
the net profit to its owners is estimated to have been
£5,500 to £6,500. The actual workings are limited to
superficial explorations, more with the object of keeping
them open and preserving legal rights of ownership than
of obtaining profit ; the principal beneficio being in the
lower levels, a steam engine and good pumps would be
279
necessary to drain them. Only two miners and one
labourer were employed at the time of my visit.
In this department a considerable number of mines
have either suspended work or are abandoned. One of
these, to which special reference may be made, is called
La Argentina^ which was formerly the most famous
mine of its time, and is still well worthy of attention.
It belongs to Messrs. Lastra and Co., and was dis-
covered in the year 1834. The direction of the lode is
almost identical with that of the Compania, and is
about a yard in width. On the surface the ores are
" warm" and quartzose, with an average ley for silver
of 118.4 to 148 ounces to the ton. At greater depth
the vein is composed of galena, mixed with "warm
metals," but the walls are so loose and broken up that
heavy timbering would be necessary for its safe work-
ing. There is a vertical shaft of thirty fathoms on the
lode, and an eight-horse steam-engine with two pumps
still exist, but not very serviceable in their present
condition and after many years of abandonment. T hese
were imported from England in the year 1838, and
are consequently of antiquated construction. The
engine was, nevertheless, in more serviceable condition
than the pumps, and with a little repair and good pumps
the water in the mine might be easily kept under.
Unfortunately the political disturbances of 1840, and
the despotic orders of the tyrant Rosas compelled the
owners to fly the country and abandon their labours.
On the return of the proprietors it was restored to
working order by a French machinist, but the results
were not satisfactory.
There are the remains of a reverberatory furnace,
with a stack 40 feet high close to the mine. It was
280
constructed many years ago to reduce ores with
litharge and the ash of the jume (impure carbonate of
soda), but without much success.
The mine is worked for about 100 yards longitu-
dinally, and might be re-opened advantageously.
Very wide veins of auriferous iron ore, which ought
to hold a fair proportion of gold, exist in the neigh-
bourhood ; but, unfortunately, having lost the samples
taken for assay, I am not in a position to state the
actual ley. Nevertheless, judging by the class of ore,
these veins are probably of commercial value.
There are numerous virgin lodes in this department,
and many others that have been superficially worked
and abandoned; but, if an impulse were given to
minino- industry in this part of the republic, no doubt
most of these lodes would be profitably utilized.
MINERAL DISTRICT OF GUATCO.
There are seven mines in actual work in this dis-
trict : —
1. The Buena Ventura mine is the property of Messrs.
Manuel de la Lastra and Co., and is situate in the Cerro
of Casa del Tigre, at a distance of 39 leagues from the
capital. The vein, which is firm and well formed, runs
from south to north, and is composed of galena and
blende, holding 148 ounces to the ton; it is about a
yard in width. There are two workings in rich bene-
ficio, one at 20 fathoms and the other at 35 fathoms;
both are m water. There is also a vertical shaft of 18
fathoms, another of ten fathoms ; two hand pumps were
in use to expel the water. Many workings are in pinta,
orfirst-class ore. The capital invested was about £5,800.
Seventy men were employed. Only one level was bemg
281
worked, the others being negk^cted from want of
resources.
2. The Santiago name, which belongs to the same
owners, is located in the Cerro Juan Chiquito, at a dis-
tance from the capital of 38 leagues. The lode is firm,
half a yard in width, in argentiferous galenas, holding
about 118.4 ounces of silver to the ton. Its direction
is also south to north. There are four workings, two
of which are in beneficio ; but only one was yielding ore.
A vertical shaft has been sunk to a depth of 15 fathoms.
Thirty men were employed. The capital invested
about £2,000. The workings are in water.
3. The Ana Maria mine belongs to Messrs. Adolfo
Eoque and Co., and is situate in the Cerro de las
Yacas, at a distance of 36 leagues from the capital.
This vein runs from south to north, and consists of
galena and blende, holding about 254.56 ounces of
silver to the ton. There are four workings in bene-
ficio and one in broceo ; the claim covers a superficial
extent of 400 yards, worked to a depth of about 20
fathoms. Only one working was in actual yield, the
others being neglected for want of pecuniary resources.
The capital invested is not over £100, and not more
than ten men were employed.
4. The Peregrina mine, belonging to Messrs. Gay
and Illanes, is located in the Canada de la Brea, at a
a distance of 36 leagues from the capital. The direction
of this vein, which is about a quarter of a yard in width,
is also from south to north, and consists of galena and
blende, holding 88.8 ounces of silver to the ton. There
is but one working, which is in beneficio, about twelve
fathoms in length and six in depth. About £300 had
been invested, and only 17 men were employed.
2L
282
5. The Henriqueta mine is the property of Don Julian
Courthiacle, and is situate in the Cerro San Jorge, at a
distance of 39 leagues from the capital. The vein runs
from south to north, and consists of galena and blende,
holding 118.4 ounces of silver to the ton. One work-
ing, 25 fathoms in length, is in beneficio, but various
others are in broceo. There is a vertical shaft sunk to
a depth of about 22 fathoms. The lower workings are
in water, and neglected on that account, the owners not
possessing the necessary means for its removal. Capital
invested very inconsiderable, and only twelve men were
employed.
6. The Puerto mine belongs to the same owner as the
preceding, and is located in the Cerro Aguardita de los
Tunas, about 40 leagues distant from the capital. The
direction of the lode is east to west, and consists of
galena and blende, holding 148 ounces of silver to the
ton. There were two workings, one being in beneficio
and the other in broceo. Both were yielding ore. This
mine had been recently discovered. Capital invested
very small, and only 13 men were employed.
7. The Nino-Dios mine is the property of Messrs.
Bustamente and Co., and situate in the Cerro La Trilla,
at a distance of 30 leagues from the capital. This vein,
like the preceding, runs from east to west, and consists of
galena and blende, holding llB.4 ounces of silver to the
ton. There are three workings, only one of which is
in actual yield, the others being neglected for want of
capital and means to remove the water, The workings
are all in beneficio, and have vertical shafts, respec-
tively sunk to a depth of about 27, 22, and 15 fathoms.
An adit has also been driven for 250 yards. Capital
invested upwards of £3,000, and 92 men were employed.
283
In addition to these there are about eighty mines,
which have been more or less worked out, but the major
P'dYt of them so choked up with earth and water as to
render personal examination impossible. They are now
public property, and include some lodes which might
be of great importance. As in the case of the Bella
Americana and San Augustin^ there are a number of firm
and well formed lodes, almost vertical, and varying in
width from 1 to IJ yards, with well defined walls.
Water appears in nearly all of them at a depth of 15
fathoms, which is the cause of their having been aban-
doned, the people being, as before stated, without ade-
quate means for removing the water by pumps, while
the mountains, from their gentle and easy declivity, are
unfavourable to adit driving. All these mines are
without exception worked out and almost exhausted on
the surface, where chlorides of silver were abundantly
found ; indeed, I saw quartz stones with small pieces of
this precious metal half an inch thick, holding 75 per
cent, of silver.
The system of working followed in Cordoba consists
principally of galleries, whose pillars are stoped out and
the whole of the ore extracted.
I consider the veins to be firm, well formed, and
lasting, and believe that their exploitation would prove
very profitable if good and efiicient machinery for
removing the water and raising the ores were applied.
The water taken from the mine could be utilized for
washing and dressing the ores, to be sold in this state
for treatment at the reduction establishments. To
accomplish this, however, and to place the workings on
a profitable footing, it would be necessary to invest at
least about £3,400.
284
The geological formation is the primary, volcanic
and granitic, accompanied by metamorphic rocks.
Gneiss and serpentine are found in nearly all parts of
the Ojo de Agua district, and the primitive schists and
serpentine, with syenite, in that of Guayco.
Below I quote some figures to show the ley of the
Cordoba ores as compared with those of some European
coimtries and districts exhibited at the Paris Uni-
versal Exhibition of 1867. I take the data from a
pamphlet published in France, by M. Fuchs, of the Im-
perial Corps of Mining Engineers, and M. Banderalli,
Ci\T.l Mining Engineer.
The nations, whose ores' are compared with those of
Corboba, are as follows : —
France, — ley of silver
to
the
ton,
48.1888
ounces.
Germany „
J5
)j
40.7888
7>
Belgium „
J>
3)
59.4000
)J
Switzerland >,
>»
)>
13.6160
)J
Italy „
?>
)J
5.6240
J'
Sardinia „
?7
)J
10.6560
?3
Spain „
5J
59.4000
)5
Average ley
33.8920
JJ
-gentine Republic : —
Province of Cordoba
5?
?9
103.6000
?»
The actual produce of mining in the province of
Cordoba is, I need hardly state, entirely out of pro-
portion to its mineral resources, the development of
which is almost at a stand-still, owing to the complete
prostration of mining operations arising from the
causes already indicated. When, however, from the
years 1861 to 1866, the mines of the province were
being worked with greater vigour and acti^dty, highly
favourable and promising results were obtained. From
285
one mine alone — the Santa Eufemia — with two years'
working, 34,669 ounces of silver were extracted by
Don Augusto Conil, the value of which may be stated
at about £9,350. Many of the mines of Messrs. Roque
and Lastra were equally productive, and the annual
produce of the mines in the period specified may,
without exaggeration, be estimated at more or less
1,850,000 ounces of silver, or an approximate value of
£50,000.
REDUCTION" WORKS.
At the time of my visit only three works for the
treatment of ore were in active oj^eration, z.e., the
Trapiche de Mercedes (Taninga), the Ojo de Agiia^ and
Santa Barbara.
The first is at a distance of 25 leagues westwards
from Corboba, and is situate in the valley of Salsacaste,
about 14 leagues south from Guayco. It belongs to
Messrs. Manuel de la Lastra and Co., but is now
rented by Don Antonio Garassini, an Italian, who was
resmelting the old slags, mixed with ores, which he
either purchased, or received to smelt, charging re-
turning dues. This establishment consists of two
blast furnaces, one for refining, and two reverberatory
furnaces for slagging and calcining the ores.
The system followed is precisely the same as that in
practice at La Huerta, San Juan, by the Messrs.
Klappenbach, a description of which has been pre-
viously given. The sole difference is that here the
throat of the blast furnace is not allowed to flame,
which is a most important feature in economical smelt-
ing, and avoiding loss by volatilization of the lead.
In Taninga they have better blowing machines than
286
in La Huerta, the apparatus beiiig what the French call
the " trompe."
There is a large quantity of old slags left from former
smelting operations — not less than 3,750 tons, holding
about 20 per cent, of lead and 14'8 ounces of silver to
the ton. Formerly the object of reduction was solely
to extract the silver from the ores, disreo:ardino: the
lead, the exportation of the latter being at that time
commercially unprofitable; now it is different, as the
Messrs. Roque utilize it in the manufacture of shot, for
which there is a large consumption.
Sixty-seven persons were employed at these reduction
works, with 200 oxen, 20 carts, 60 mules, and 8 muleteers.
During the year 1868, 220 tons of ores were smelted,
exclusive of the old slags, producmg about 22,000
ounces of silver of an approximate value of £5,600.
The average ley of the ores received from the mines
and reduced was 103*6 ounces of silver to the ton, and
50 per cent, of lead.
About 38 tons of ore are reduced per month, and
the proprietor charges for smelting at the rate of £6
per ton, delivering the resulting bar silver, but retain-
ing the lead to the profit of the works.
Firewood is abundant, and costs 4s. per ton; charcoal
about 21s, and freight on the conveyance of ores from
Guayco to Taninga, 9s. 4d. per ton. There is pleniy
of natural grass pasture, but little alfalfa. A consider-
able stream of water runs close to the works. There
are old works close to for the amalgamation of ores on
the old system, whose barrels and machinery still exist,
but are now broken down and almost totally useless.
There are also a set of stamps and two jigging
machines for washing the ores and ground slags.
287
The stock of lead in deposit consisted of 7 J tons, with
2,220 ounces of silver, and 15 tons of lead reduced from
litharge for shot, containing about 13*32 ounces of
silver to the ton ; the precious metal is not, however,
further extracted from the latter, as the cost would be
too great.
The capital invested, £5,000; the houses are con-
venient and roomy.
The Ojo de Agua reduction works are situate seven
leagues to the north-east from Taninga, in the direction
of the mining district of Guayco. They formerly be-
longed to Messrs. Roque Brothers, and were established
in the year 1834 by Don Leon Roque, (now sole owner)
who carried them on for some time, beneficiating " warm
metals" by the process of amalgamation; but argen-
tiferous galena having appeared in almost all the veins
in depth, he changed the system for smelting furnaces.
At the beginning many difficulties were experienced, and
these were not surmounted until Don Leon Roque
visited Pontgibaud, in France, whence he introduced the
system then in operation there, and which is now almost
universally followed in the Argentine Republic.
This system is very imperfect, and has for this
reason been abandoned at Pontgibaud ; but at Ojo de
Agua and elsewhere in the Republic the native peones
are incapable of working by any other, and this prevents
improvements and alterations being made.
The dimensions of the furnaces at Taninga and Santa
Barbara, as well as at La Huerta, in San Juan, were
taken from those of Ojo de Agua.
In fifteen years Messrs. Roque smelted large quan-
tities of ore, realizing thereby a considerable fortune.
For some years past, however, the works have been
288
partially abandoned and fallen into a dilapidated state,
owing to the repeated absence of the owner in France
and the abandonment of the establishment to the native
labourers.
At the time of my visit an old mayordomo was en-
gaged in smelting slags solely with the view to extract
lead for the manufacture of shot. There is only one blast
furnace, one for refining, and another for calcining and
slagging. The system is similar to that in practice at
La Huerta, in San Juan, already described.
The motive power is an overshot water wheel, 25
feet in diameter and only fifteen inches breast ; as the
supply of water is very limited, the highest possible fall
has to be secured. This wheel propels ths fan, and
another, 20 feet in diameter, further up on the stream,
works three heads of stamps for preparing the ore for
calcination.
The furnaces at these works were about to be repaired
and others constructed upon a better system, in con-
formity with that now adopted at Pontgibaud, where
Seiior Roque had been permitted to study them, and
which are more or less similar to those erected at Hilario,
in San Juan.
There is a large accumulation of old slao-s here — about
5,000 tons — holding from 15 to 20 per cent, of lead and
a small quantity of silver.
At a short distance from the reduction works is situ-
ate the shot manufactory, built over the shaft of the
mine Compania, which has been utilized for this purpose.
About 2J tons of shot can be turned out daily, but of
course this rate of production is not kept up continuously.
This enterjDrise has already yielded a splendid profit, the
lead converted into shot realizing about £2 per cwt.
289
The following were employed at the reduction works
in May, 1869, namely, 1 mayordomo, 4 carpenters, 2
masons, 1 blacksmith, 42 labourers, and 20 wood
cutters, charcoal burners, and muleteers, assisted by 60
peones, making a grand total of 130 persons. There
were also 62 oxen, 212 mules, and 2 carts occupied
about the works.
The labourers receive 13s. 4d. per month, with daily
rations, consisting of 1 lb. beef and 2 cups of maize.
Those employed in the mines are paid from 16s. 8d. to
£1, and the fore-miners £1 13s. 4d., which is less than
in any other part of the Republic.
Maize, in normal times, costs from 10s. to 13s. 4d.
per fanega (300 lbs.) ; beef is cheap — a young ox may be
bought for £2, and cows at £1 6s. 8d. to £1 13s. 4d.,
according^ to condition and weight.
There is a vineyard and a fine orchard of fruit trees
at the works, as also very comfortable dwelling houses
for the men.
The Santa Barbara reduction establishment is situate
at a distance of nine leagues northwards from Ojo de
Agua and two leagues from Guayco. It belongs to Don
Manuel de la Lastra and Co., and was in full activity,
smelting ores, mixed with bottoms from the refining
furnace and old slags.
The works consist of three blast, one reverberatory
and one refining furnace. The only difference between
the system adopted at Santa Barbara and that in prac-
tice at the other establishments in the province is the
calcination of the oresin"tabiques," or partially enclosed
rectangular spaces, in the open air before the final calci-
nation and slagging in the reverberatory furnace. There
are two Chilian mills, or edge runners, worked by mule
2 M
290
power, and the blast is supplied by the trompe ; as already
explained at Taninga, the fall of water is 36 feet, and
there is abundance of it. These works are better situ-
ated than either of the others, and more adapted for an
extension of business, as the abundance of water affords
an important source of motive power and is otherwise
of great utility. The dwelling houses and alfalfa en-
closures are good, and the lands of the establishment,
which are extensive, are also of superior character.
In the year 1868 eighty-four tons of ore were smelted,
and produced 13,941 ounces of silver, whose value there
would be about £3,700.
The total monthly disbursements were about £80.
Firewood costs 2s. 8d. per ton; charcoal, £1 per ton;
flour, 16s. 8d. per. cwt. ; maize, 16s. 8d. per fanega
(300 lbs.);beef, lid. perlb.
There exists here a large quantity of old slags, about
2,500 tons. These contain 15 per cent, of lead. The
stock in the ore yard comprised 36 tons of ore, holding
112*48 ounces of silver, and about 8 tons of argentiferous
lead, containing about 1 per cent, of silver. There
were also about 75 tons of bottoms from the refining
furnace, consisting of lime and marly earth, with 29*4 to
35'52 ounces of silver to the ton.
These works were founded in the year 1832, and aban-
doned up to 1854, when the furnaces were renovated ;
since that time reduction operations have been carried
on without intermission. The capital invested is about
£1,300.
The following were employed at this establishment :
1 manager, 1 book-keeper, 2 mayordomos, 2 carpenters,
2 blacksmiths, 6 fore-smelters, 12 assistant smelters, 100
Ifibourers, 3 charcoal burners, and 2 muleteers; total.
291
131. There were also 40 oxen, 25 mules, and 6
carts.
The amalgamation works of La Candelaria were in
course of construction by Don Carlos Guilmar d' Aragon,
with the view to beneficiate the auriferous ores said to
exist in the adjacent mountains ; there are many open
superficial workings on quartz veins, in some of which
the native gold was visible. A few samples were sub-
mitted to me for inspection in the city, but I was unable
to see or examine the veins themselves.
I was also shown samples of rock crystal and jasper,
with some amethysts of good quality, which had likewise
been found in these quartz veins. Veined marbles,
beautifully tinted — green, rose, &c. — exist in the same
mountams, where gypsum (sulphate of lime) is also,
found in fair abundance.
The calcareous or limestone formation, at a distance
of five leagues westwards from the city, will be doubt-
less soon of the hio;hest commercial value, as now that
facilities for cheap and ready transport are afi'orded by
the Central Argentine Railway, even Buenos Ayres
itself may be supplied with this article of extensive and
necessary consumption.
The lime produced from the burned stone is of superior
quality and strength, one part being equal to 2 J parts
of that obtained from shells on the Parand, one of the
present and former principal sources of lime for building
purposes at Buenos Ayres. These calcareous deposits are
also certain to become a source of considerable wealth,
as excellent marble, which may be cut into flags for
court-yards, foot-paths, and the embellishment of
buildings, can be easily obtained from them.
Almost everywhere throughout the Sierra excellent
292
refractory material is found, suitable for the construc-
tion of furnaces. Steatite (soapstone) exists in great
quantity, and, when properly prepared, lasts as Avell in
the furnace as English fire-bricks.
COPPER MINING DISTRICT OF CALAMUCHITA.
This mineral district is situate 16 leagues southwards
from the capital, at the base of the lower ranges or
eastern slopes of the Sierra de Cordoba. The mines in
this district, discovered many years ago, were in the
beginning rather enthusiastically worked, but are now
being merely kept open, awaiting the completion of the
railway. The principal are the following : —
The mine El Tio belongs to Mr. Samuel F. Lafone,
of Monte Video, and was closed from the year 1859 to
1868 ; the workings were paralyzed owing to an illegal
embargo (in consequence of a lawsuit) having been
placed upon the establishment to which the ores raised
were previously sent for reduction. Operations have
been resumed of late and at the period of my visit
about 90 tons of ore were on the surface, holding
15 per cent, of copper, consisting of yellow sulphides
of copper, highly ferrugineous. At seven fathoms
the carbonates and silicates, which abounded above
that depth, entirely disappeared, but the vein con-
tinues in the above ore a yard in width. The
workings have been followed to the lowest levels, which
are 22^ fathoms in vertical depth, and the vein had
widened at this point to about 1| yards. There is a
vertical shaft in five fathoms of water. In the same
claim there are two other lodes, which run parallel and
are well formed, but divided by a wall of gneiss and
mica-schist, thirty yards thick, in the centre of which
293
is a very narrow though rich vein of grey copper. The
direction of the veins is from north-west to south-east;
their visible longitudinal extent is not very great.
They may, however, be buried under surface, as the
vegetation and soil are thick about the spot.
Not more than 40 to 50 yards are worked longitudi-
nally, and water already interferes with the lower
workings; but an adit might be easily driven from the
foot of the ravine, which would drain to a vertical depth
of 35 fathoms. This mine is at present solely worked
to keep it open and to prevent its being denounced.
The same may be said of the Tauro mine, which is
five leagues further north, and also belongs to Mr. La-
fone. This vein is a yard in width and consists of iron
and copper pyrites — yellow and purple sulphides. The
vertical depth of the workings is 24 fathoms, nearly all
of which are invaded by water. The ores of this mine
are purer than those of the preceding, and the dressed
first class hold 18 per cent, of copper. There are 100
to 120 tons of dressed ore on the surface. Only two
men were employed. The situation of this mine is not
so favourable for the driving of an adit as that of El Tio^
and good pumping machinery will be necessary to free
it of water.
The Tacuru mine, which belonged to Mr. Daniel
Gowland, of Buenos Ayres, is now full of water, and
some of the workings choked up with debris. It has
been abandoned for many years. Its ores are very
simikr to those of the Tio mine, but owing to the water
I was not able to inspect the levels, which are 40
fathoms in depth.
Within a radius of a league round the Tio mine there
are many veins — some of them of importance — consist-
294
ing of silicates, and carbonates witli exides of copper.
The Central Argentine Railway will immensely facilitate
and cheapen transport, and under this stimulus these
lodes (oO in number) are certain to be eventually
worked to a good profit ; meantime they are commer-
cially worthless.
The smelting works for reduction of copper ores are
located close to the shaft of the Tauro mine, and at a
distance of 12 leagues from the capital. They consist
of a reverb eratory furnace, which is well constructed
with English fire-bricks. The establishment belongs to
to Mr .Samuel Lafone ; but smelting operations were sus-
pended in 1859, owing to the lawsuit and embargo above
referred to ; and, though the questions at issue have
been settled, operations have not since been resumed.
The situation is very favourable, with plenty of
water, pasture, and firewood in the neighbourhood.
There are also good dwelling houses. Mr. Lafone has
expended on these reduction works, and on the Tio and
Tauro mines, about £25,000.
COAL DEPOSITS.
I cannot assert that, up to the present, coal has been
found in Cordoba, but, from the data m my possession,
I have no hesitation whatever in expressing the con-
viction that it will be discovered in the northern and
western districts of the province. I believe that the
same sandstone schistose formation, encountered in
Los Llanos (Rioja), extends to the points indicated, and
from specimens I have seen obtained in the neighbour-
hood of the city of Cordoba itself, I am disposed to
conclude that the existence of coal is less doubtful than
has hitherto been supposed.
295
In any case a matter of such importance merits the
serious attention of the National Government, and an
appropriation of £4,000 or £5,000 for thoroughly ex-
ploring and examining the parts pointed out in my
report on the provinces of San Juan and Rioja would-
be a most useful expenditure and likely eventually to
prove exceedingly advantageous to the revenues of the
country.
Thirty leagues north of the city, I have found the
sandstone formation identical almost with that of San
Juan, and from this and other appearances and data I
am of opmion that, at a depth of 300 to 400 feet, beds
of excellent coal will be discovered.
The province of Cordoba is by nature fairly provided
with carriage roads, owing to its physical advantages
and the even character of its plains. It is only in the
Sierra that these are needed, and the one now being
made, passing through Soto, in the direction of San Juan,
will materially aid in developing the mining industry
of the province. A good carriage road is, how-
ever, necessary from Soto to the mineral districts, and
will, I believe, be made by the local Government.
The greater part is already constructed, and for about
£400 to £500 it might be carried to Taninga and
Pocho.
With respect to mule tracks, it would be very
advantageous to improve that crossing the Sierra from
San Roque to Ojo de Agua, and afterwards that
descending from the Cuesta de Pind to the plains of
Los Llanos. The latter is much frequented, and
passes through some rather important centres of popu-
lation. An excellent road for pack mules might be
constructed for about £850.
296
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
It will be seen by the preceding table, or general sum-
mary, that mining industry in the Argentine Republic
is by no means so insignificant as has been hitherto be-
lieved. It is now an indisputable fact that mineral
riches exist in the country, and whose extent cannot be
excelled by those of any other in South America. Up
to the present the Republic has been thought to pos-
sess no other wealth than that represented by its cattle,
its sheep, its wools, and its hides. This is a great
mistake, for those products, however valuable and abun-
dant they may be, can never form the sole basis of per-
manent and enduring prosperity. They cannot advan-
tageously pass certain limits of production; because,
when this takes place, the foreign buyers, and even
consumers in the country itself, will decline to pay such
prices as would leave a profitable result to the producer.
On the other hand, wages and other necessary expenses
are greatly increased, causing a still further reduction
in the profits of producers. This has actually happened
as respects wool-growing, and at this very moment we
are experiencing the natural results of costly over-
297
production and diminished value of the article produced.
A continuance of this must soon bring about a crisis,
and ruin an industry on whose prosperity the country is,
under existing circumstances, almost wholly dependent.
Economists have always pointed out the danger of
allowing the resources of a nation to depend upon a
single article of production, or a single branch of
industry, however lucrative or profitable. It is there-
fore our duty to seek other occupations, other articles of
production, and to have in view other resources for the
future, whose value exported may at least equal that of
our imports, which, during the past year (1867), alarm-
ingly exceeded the value of our principal exports.
I now refer solely to the products of the Littoral, or
riverine provinces, which alone are exportable^ or realizable
in foreign markets. The immense agricultural capabili-
ties of the interior provinces, it must be understood, are
as yet compulsorily limited to the supply of local wants,
whilst the abundant produce of the soil is almost value-
less for export, owing to the onerous charges at present
incurred for its transport to the coast. But how valuable
and important would that produce become if only a ready
market were created and made available for its local
consumption ?
It is to be hoped, and I firmly believe, that the next
generation will be able to give a satisfactory solution to
this question. Those great civilizers — railways, roads,
and schools, — are already being rapidly and energeti-
cally extended to the very confines of the Republic,
whilst the wild gaucho of the pampa and the untutored
savao:e will soon awaken to the fact that their rule is at
an end, and that barbarism must succumb before the
onward march of progress.
2 M
298
These convictions are not the offspring of momentary
enthusiasm; they are based on substantial facts, and
strengthened by the brilliant example which has been
presented to us by our great model, the United States of
North America. The Argentine Confederation to-day is
precisely in the same economic position as California,
Nevada, Arizona, and Colorado, the Western Pacific
States, in the year 1850. These States occupy an area
of 903,019 square miles of territory, with a population
of 780,000 souls, or less than one to every square mile.
Of this population only 52,000 are exclusively employed
in mining operations, and it is their labour and energy
which impart commercial vitality to the whole ; for it
cannot be denied that California is purely a mining
country, and that its great progress and importance are
due to the development of its mineral wealth.
In the year 1867 California produced gold and silver
bullion to the value of £15,000,000, the very existence
of which in that territory was nineteen years ago quite
unknown to the civilized world. How gratifying this
result must be to the people of the United States,
where mining industry is protected and fostered by the
General Government as a source of inexhaustible
wealth, and above all as a material guarantee for the
maintenance of peace and the continuance of national
prosperity.
I have now before me a most valuable work, — the
voluminous report presented to the Government of
Washington by Mr. Ross Browne on the mineral
resources of the States situate west of the Rocky
Mountains, and printed by order of Congress. It is the
result of many years of labour, and contains the accumu-
lated information of numerous scientific men, thoroughly
299
competent to furnish reliable details on the subject
matter of the report, the data of which have been most
carefully revised and corrected by Mr. Browne. In
the United States they have an advantage which we
in the Argentine Republic do not possess — a skilled and
commercial mining population, accustomed to keep
books and accounts showing their expenditure, receipts,
and produce. It is therefore an easy matter to collect
data there, whereas here not one miner in a hundred
preserves any record whatever of either the disburse-
ments or produce of their mines.
It would occupy too much space to extract for intro-
duction in these pages even a tenth part of Mr.
Browne's remarks with regard to the high importance
and civilizing influences of mining industry in Cali-
fornia ; but I cannot refrain from quoting the following
paragraphs, extracted from the general observations at
the end of his work : —
"Within the brief space of nineteen years our people
have opened up for settlement a larger area of territory,
valuable as a source of supply for nearly all the neces-
sities of man, than has ever before in the world's
history been brought within the limits of civilization in
so short a time. Nineteen years ago California,
Arizona, Colorado, Montana, Idaho, and Nevada,
occupying more than one-third of the entire area of the
United States, were regions chiefly known to trappers
and traders, traversed and occupied for the most part
by barbarous hordes of Indians. That this extraordi-
nary advance, with all its concomitant results to the
trade and commerce of the world, has been achieved by
the discovery and development of our mineral re-
sources, no reasonable man pretends to dispute. Every
300
day's progress in our history speaks for itself and the
facts are patent to all.
" It seems a little singular, on considering the millions
of treasure thus added to our national wealth, the vast
range of industry opened to our people, the wonderful
impulse given to agriculture, commerce, and manu-
factures, that, of all our great national interests, the
business of mining has had the hardest struggle to
enlist the favourable consideration of our Government.
Of late years, through the irresistable logic of results,
something has been achieved in the way of more intel-
lio-ent federal leoislation.
"If we take mining only in its past condition and its
present transition state we must admit that, with all
its evil effects upon mdividuals, it has caused most im-
portant general benefits, especially in anticipating by
generations the peopling of the immense territories of
the west, and thus widening the field for the display of
national energies, broadening the spirit and firmly
bracing the national credit. But for the mining furor
of the last nineteen years California would probably
have remained a vast cattle range to this day, and all
the great territories adjoining it, now peopling with
civilized communities and nearly traversed by a railroad
uniting both shores of the continent, would still be
savage wastes, held and controlled by barbarians, who
are fast retiring before the forces of modern progress.
" The direct effect of mining upon agriculture and
commerce is strikingly shown in California. How
much wheat would now be exported from San Fran-
cisco but for the mines and the population attracted
by them ; how many interior towns would have been
built; how far would the Pacific railroad have been
301
constructed ; where would have been the overland mail,
the telegraph, and the China steamship line, but for the
necessities created by the development of our mineral
wealth ? The mines have not only led to those things,
but they have built up a great manufacturing interest,
which already, in San Francisco alone, estimates its
annual product by a figure nearly as high as that of the
gold fields."
The importance of mining as a populating and civi-
lizing agent will be apparent from the above extract.
Our country to-day is in the same position as California
twenty years ago; and why may we not entertain
the hope of making similar progress within the next
twenty years? We have thousands of leagues of moun-
tains, more metalliferous than those of California, as is
proved by the riches of Copiap6, Potosi, and Famatina.
We have immense territories, only awaiting colonization
and cultivation, infinitely more fertile and productive
than those of North America. We have the staples and
basis of many manufactures, which might soon be-
come of vast importance and a source of great profit
to the country, but which are yet lying useless and
devoid of commercial value. We have wool for the
manufacture of cloths; hides for the manufacture of
leather of almost every description ; indigenous indigo,
equal in quality to the best Guatemala, and growing in
a wild state, covering large tracts of territory in the fer-
tile province of Santiago del Estero; the sugar cane for
the manufacture of sugar ; as well as rice and tobacco in
Tucuman and coff"ee in Salta and Jujuy. The fines
timber exists in the country, the value of which would
be incalculable had we but facile and economic mean
of transport. Having all these advantages, what then
302
is needed to secure their profitable utilization? Peace
and tranquillity, with rulers and men possessing skill and
energy, — railways to traverse our vast deserts, but
neither so broad nor so difficult as those of California,
and, above all, a foreign immigration of industrious
labourers, the scions of a vigorous race, and capable of
successfully contending with the difficulties and draw-
backs of a comparatively new and unknown country.
In many parts of the Republic, — more especially in
Rioja and Catamarca — the want of water is greatly felt
in the travesias or deserts ; but this evil is not without
a remedy. Artesian wells should be sunk in those
places. A Government engineer, I understand, has
stated that such wells would be useless, since there
exists no surface current of water ; but this theory is
quite untenable in presence of facts and in view of the
geological formation of the country. In the Llanos of
Rioja, as well as in Catamarca and San Juan, all the
probabilities are in favour of finding good water in
reaching the igneous rocks. These works would serve
a double purpose : they would solve the problem of the
existence of coal in those places where its presence is so
strikingly indicated, while giving water to a large ex-
tent of territory at present desert and intransitable for
want of this essential element. The Central Argentine
Railway will soon be prolonged towards the north, and
it is necessary that the Government should adopt such
measures as will promote and advance its civilizing in-
fluence.
I am glad now to be in a position to state that a
numerous immigration is being daily attracted to the
shores of the River Plate, and that men of powerful
position and influence in Europe are using their best
303
eiForts to promote a continuance of this beneficial and
enriching current.
I have not referred at any length in the foregoing
pages to the great advantages offered by the province of
Santa Fe as a field for immigration, and I cannot close
this work without calling* special attention to that rich
and important agricultural province.
As stated in the introductory remarks, the well-known
house of Messrs. Thomson, Bonar and Co., of London,
have acquired a large tract of land in that province, and
I cannot do better than insert here my oflicial reply to
their questions concerning the Argentine Republic, and
especially the province of Santa Fe, in reference to the
intended, colonization of their lands. In this note will
be found important details, which will serve as a guide
to intending emigrants, and others who may be desirous
of going to the River Plate : —
PROVINCE OF SANTA FE AS A FIELD FOR IMMIGRATION
AND COLONIZATION.
Consulate General of the Argentine Republic,
London, February ^Et/t, 1870.
To Messrs. J. Thomson, T. Bonar and Co.,
Old Broad Street, E.C.
Gentlemen,
In reference to our conversation on colonization in
the Argentine Republic, I have much pleasure in
giving you all the information in my possession concern-
ing that country. In doing this ofiicially, I shall be
only complying with the instructions received from his
Excellency the President, who has honoured me with
a special mission from his Government to Europe, with
the view, amongst others, of making known more gene-
304
rally the advantages which the Argentine Republic
possesses for a foreign immigration, and the vast field
for enterprise open there for development.
A residence of over twelve years in South America,
eight of which I have spent in the Argentine Repubhc,
holding a high official position, enables me to speak
with authority on all matters connected with that
country.
Without further preface, I will proceed to reply
to the various questions and points which you were
good enough to submit for my consideration and reply,
bearing in mind, however, that my observations will
only apply to that part of the territory proposed to be
colonized by your house, adding a few general remarks
on the country, its Government, and its people.
Climate. — There is probably no country on the face
of the earth so favoured by nature. It is so entirely
situated in the south temperate zone, which enjoys,
perhaps, the healthiest climate on the globe, and
the soil is so varied and fertile, that it produces, with
ordinary care, nearly all the great staple commodities
of home consumption and foreign commerce. Meteoro
logical observations taken at Buenos Ayres, the capital,
gave the following average temperature for the year : —
20 days (very cold) 45 to 55 degrees Fah.
182 „ (moderate) 55 ,,75 „ „
60 „ (warm) 75 „ 88 „ „
45 ,, (hot) 80 „ 85
58 „ (intensely hot) 85 ,,105 „ „
365
The temperature in that part of the province of Santa
Fe where your land is situate, being about four degrees
further north, is of course somewhat warmer ; that is to
305
say, the proportion of hot weather is greater, and the
thermometer rarely falls below freezing point. In
point of salubrity I consider the site of the proposed
colony to be superior to Buenos Ayres.
Soil. — The general character of the surface soil is
that of a rich black vegetable earth, averaging in some
places from three to five feet in depth, resting on a sub-
stratum of yellowish clay, forming the great alluvial de-
posit of the pampas, whose depth in some parts is over
one hundred feet ; this is excellent for making bricks.
The surface soil is so rich that any crop can be pro-
duced without the aid of manure, and this I have no
doubt will continue to be the case for many years.
Products. — Cereals. — One crop of maize or Indian
corn and one of wheat can be raised annually; the
sowing time for wheat is April to September, for maize
from September to January. Wheat is reaped in De-
cember and January, and maize in April and May ; in
bad seasons wheat yields about thirteen bushels to the
acre, in good seasons about thirty; maize averages all
round about one hundred bushels to the acre, and re-
quires about one bushel of seed to seven acres ; these
remarks apply generally to barley. Besides the above,
rice, mandioca, sugar, cotton, tobacco, coffee, and flax
of every kind may be easily cultivated of a superior
quality. Vegetables will grow with scarcely any
exception, with ordinary care and skill; potatoes
especially are very fine and in great abundance.
Fruits. — Pears, apricots, peaches, nectarines, oranges,
and lemons grow in great abundance; likewise melons,
water melons, pumpkins, and grapes.
Grazing. — Various classes of grass abound admirably
suited for horned cattle, horses, and sheep. It is said
2 N
306
that one acre will maintain at the rate of two to four
sheep annually with every success. In addition to the
natural pasture, alfalfa, or lucerne, will grow most
abundantly, requiring no further labour when once
sown than irrigation by water from the rivers adjoining,
and a field of this fattening pasture will last for many
years, if eaten down regularly and allowed to flourish
afresh by irrigation.
Timber. — Abundance of excellent timber for building
purposes and fuel exists on the lands and adjoining ter-
ritories, where colonists exercise the right of feeding so
long as it remains Fiscal or Government property.
The principal and most durable of the timber is the
" algarrobo," which is almost imperishable in the ground
or under water ; this is a species of mahogany and makes
excellent furniture. The " fiandubay " is of a similar
class as regards durability and usefulness.
Game. — Game is in abundance, and fish in almost
fabulous quantities; the former consists of large and
small deer, " carpinchos," or species of water pig,
armadillos, ducks, snipe, geese, wild swans, wild
turkeys, partridges, large and small moor-fowl, besides
a sprinkling of foxes and wild hogs, and vast numbers
of the American ostrich. In the woods and away from
the inhabited parts the jaguar is occasionally met with.
Reptiles and vermin are no more numerous or ob-
noxious than in many parts of Europe.
Cattle. — Bullocks and cows can be bought for fat-
tenins: on waste lands at from 13s. 6d. to 25s. each, the
latter in good condition and fit for slaughter; sheep,
3s. 4d. to 6s. each; horses from £1 to £3 each; milch
cows, from £2 each; team of bullocks broken for the
plough, £10. The class of animals here quoted are
307
obtainable in large numbers all through the inhabited
districts of the province.
Water. — In addition to the unlimited supply obtain-
able from the rivers, by using Norton's Abyssinian
pump on almost any part of the lands, a sufficient sup-
ply may be obtained for domestic uses. If larger
quantities be required proportionately powerful pump-
ing apparatus can be used.
Communication and Roads. — Although the country
offers every fac'li^^y for road traffic, I would recommend
the adoption of small steamers and boats, or launches,
to ply between the capital, Santa Fe, and the colony.
The San Javier rive:- is navigable for steamers far above
the colony. The Saladillo "Dulce" and " Armargo"
are, I believe, navigable for small craft. This being
the case, uninterrupted communication can be had with
nearly all the farms in the colony. From Buenos Ayres
to Santa Fe there is a by-weekly communication, and
from Santa Fe to San Javier (close to the colony) a
weekly communication by regular steamer subsidised
recently by the National Government Gommunication
between Europe and Buenos Ayres is now almost
weekly.
Markets for Produce and Prices. — According to the
data in my possession the following may be set down as
the average prices obtainable for produce at Santa Fe,
Parana, Goya, La Paz, &c. : — On the river Parana,
wheat from 6s. to 8s. per bushel ; in the colony perha^^js
5s. may be realised. Maize 3s. to 4s. per bushel ; 2s. may
be realised in the colony. Potatoes about 10s. per cwt.
It is quite possible that at harvest time purchasers of
produce will wait upon the colonists and buy on the
308
spot, thereby saving them the trouble and expense of
sending to market.
Provisions. — Flour, placed in the colony, imported
from Rosario, will cost from 25s. to 30s. per 100 lbs.;
tea, 4s. to 6s. per lb. ; sugar, 2d. to 4d. per lb. ; rice, 4d.
per lb. ; beef, Id. to 2d. per lb.
Capital required hy Emigrants. — For the first families
who might be sent to the colony as pioneers, I would
not recommend them to be provided with less capital
than, say, £300 to £500 each family of four persons, which
would be ample for all disbursements (including pur-
chase of farm of 100 acres) until returns through pro-
duce would be obtained. The following tabular state-
ment will not, I think, be far out, and may be a better
Ifuide to intendino; emio;rants : —
G ^ CD
Passage per steamer, with rations, &c., for a
family of four persons, say ^55 o o
Outfit, say 40 o o
Tools, say 10 o o
On anival at the colony the following disburse-
ments may be calculated upon : —
Temporary house, say 25 o o
Two horses, at ;^3 each 6 o o
Four bullocks and cows at ;^2 5s. each 900
Two milch cows at ^2 2s 4 4 o
Twenty-five sheep at 5s. each 6 5 o
Two teams bullocks for ploughing, at p£"io 20 o o
Pigs, poultry, &c 7 o °
Implements, carts, &c 75 o o
living and clothing expenses 100 o o
Purchase money for farm 25 o o
Total ;^382 9 o
Produce. — I consider that a family of four persons
should get under cultivation about 50 acres of wheat
309
land in the first year, and this, as near as 1 can judge,
ought to produce as follows : —
For first year, at the rate of 1 5 bushels per
acre, at 5/- per bushel ^187 10 o
Indian corn, to be sown after wheat in second
six months, will produce, say, 75 bushels
to acre, at 2/- 375 o ^
Total ^^562 10 o
From the foregoing it will be seen that the outlay for
the first year, allowing an ample margin, is £382 9s.
and the produce, estimated at a very low figure, will
realise £562 10s., leaving a balance profit of £180 Is.,
or at the rate of about 47 per cent, per annum on
capital.
Class of people who should go out. — It will be necessary
to exercise much care in the selection of the first emi-
grants to be sent out. I would strongly recommend
that the first 150 should be of the agricultural class, of
steady, sober, and industrious habits, possessing testi-
monials from the clergyman of their district, and having
at their disposal sufficient means to enable them to get
through the first year in the colony. Married men, with
a family of two or three grown up children would be
the most desirable; but I would also recommend that
four young men should be considered as a family, and,
working together, receive the same privileges as the
married men. A fair proportion of artizans, such as
carpenters, blacksmiths, bricklayers, shoemakers, and
tailors, in the ratio of 5 to 7 per cent., should accompany
each batch of the agricultural class. These artizans
should possess similar recommendations, and may not
necessarily be of the higher branches of their trade.
In the appendix to this note you will find a tariff of
310
wages for these, as set down by the Immigration Com-
mittee appointed by the National Government at Buenos
Ayres, which is more or less correct. Later on — when
the colony becomes more populated, and if the proprie-
tors of the farms should require it, — I would recom-
mend to be sent out a batch of agricultural labourers,
to be distributed amongst them, they reimbursing to
you the cost of their passage, which might be deducted
by instalments from their wages.
Agricultural Implements. — Although these may be had
at Buenos Ayres and Rosario, it might be well for the
emigrants to take out a supply of ploughs, harrows,
cultivators, hoes, chains, cordage, and a box of rough
carpenter's tools. I will, however, defer entering into
details on this subject until my arrival out, and a care-
ful inspection of the Californian colony adjoining your
land, where, up to the present, the greatest success has
been achieved. From their practical experience we
shall be enabled to determine more safely and definitely
the requirements of emigrants under this head. I am,
however, of opinion that the sums set down under the
head of " CajDital required" will be ample for the outlay
in this respect.
Outfit.^ arms., ^'C. — I would recommend each emigrant
to take a fair supply of woollen clothing, as all such
articles are much more costly out there and less suited
to rough work. These should be of two classes — light
for summer wear, and rather heavier for winter ; say,
one dozen coloured flannel shirts, fine ; half-dozen heavy
blue woollen serge, or Guernseys, as worn by sailors ;
two monkey jackets, light and heavy ; four pairs trousers,
two light Tweed or Indian flannel, and two of strong
Bedford cord; two soft felt hats; two straw ditto, with a
311
roll of strong muslin or light calico wound around to
keep off the sun ; two pairs of strong jack boots, to come
to the knees ; two of light laced boots (elastic sides should
be avoided, as the climate soon renders them useless);
one dozen pairs of merino or light woollen socks ; a strong
waterproof Mackintosh, with cap and leggings. These
being the only necessary articles of clothing, I do not
mention others of a finer description which may be taken
by the emigrants according to their means, position, and
requirements. Bedding : — Two pairs of ordinary heavy
blankets; two waterproof canvas sheets (lined with
India-rubber), and two pairs of cotton sheets; a curled
hair mattress, to fold in three, with pillows to suit ; light
iron bedstead, with hoop-iron slips. Knives, forks, and
spoons to suit the requirements of each ; a strong waist
belt, with pockets, sheath knife, and revolver. A saddle,
bridle, and horse gear complete will be very essential.
I would recommend a plain, strong, military saddle,
with expanding holsters, and small valise to strap on
behind, with bridle and head-stall in one. A set of
culinary utensils, consisting of two pots, two saucepans, a
frying pan, gridiron, two kettles, teapot, cups, saucers,
plates, and dishes of delf- lined ironware. A supply of
stationery to suit each person's wants would be advisable ;
thin foreign note paper is the best for correspondence.
Strong boxes of light pine, with the corners bound by
iron hoops and a secure lock. A supply of good Ameri-
can axes for felling timber would be essential ; these I
indicate specially as forming extras in the tool chest
already recommended. An assorted supply offish hooks
and lines, with nets, for fishing in the numerous streams
and rivers close by ; an eight-day American clock, and,
amongst every four or five families, a serviceable Aneroid
312
barometer, very useful in indicating sudden changes of
the weather. A small medicine chest, with a few of the
principal remedies for household use, such as citrate of
magnesia, cream of tartar, carbonate of soda, tartaric
acid, epsom salts, senna, castor oil, calomel, tartar emetic,
jalap, ipecacuana, Rubini's tincture of camphor, sul-
phate of quinine, and such others as each emigrant may
desire to take. These should be accompanied by a few
ajDpliances for external injuries, such as lint, oiled silk,
adhesive plaister, tincture of arnica, friar's balsam, and
simple cerate. For those who prefer the homoepathic
remedies, I would recommend them, as being more port-
able and efficacious for the climate and requirements of
the country. My own experience of this extends over
a period of seven years, in the roughest campaigning
and explorations, and I have found them fully adequate
to all the requirements of such an eventful life. The
strongest tiyictures should be taken.
Houses or Dwellings. — These may be erected in a tem-
porary manner of timber, consisting of two rooms, each
1 5 feet square, for the sum estimated in outlay — say £25.
Of " adobes," or sun-dried bricks, it may cost a little
more. For a permanent house, built of brick and lime,
same size, say, £250 to £300, but this latter I cannot esti-
mate correctlyjust at present, and, having our own masons
and carpenters sent out from Europe, I have no doubt it
will come out less. I shall be able to inform you more
fully on this on my arrival out.
Indians.- — In a correspondence lately published in
the Field newspaper, it was stated that one of the
greatest objections to emigration to the Argentine Ee-
public was the exposed state of the frontier lands, and
consequent insecurity for life and property owing to
813
ludiaii raids. Those statements applied generally to
the frontiers of Cordoba and Santa Fe, distant more
than three hundred miles from your colony ; but, how-
ever true they may have been in reference to a period of
the past, and I admit they were so, happily for the
interests of the landed proprietors in those districts, and
thanks to the advanced and energetic system of govern-
ment initiated by President Sarmiento and his Adminis-
tration, that terrible bugbear to progress and civilisation
has now almost totally disappeared. The conclusion
of the Paraguayan war has fortunately enabled the Go-
vernment to direct all its energies in the War Depart-
ment towards securing immunity to settlers on the
frontiers, effectually keeping back the previously too
frequent raids of the savages by a judicious distribution
of Line troops and National Guards all over the country.
More than 2,000 men, with an able general and eficient
officers, have within the last year extended the southern
frontier to a distance of 100 miles and established a line
of forts protected by natural barriers of rivers and
lagoons. The effect of this energetic action has been to
bring the Indian chiefs to the feet of their conquerors,
suing for peace and a cessation of hostilities, and giving
hostages to the Government for a due fulfilment of their
treaty. I must here state that those Indians of the
south are a hardy and warlike race, well mounted and
armed, having the advantage of an almost woodless, un-
interrupted, level country, favourable either for their
raids or escape, whilst those onthe northern frontiers, or
contiguous to your colony, are a miserable, degenerated
tribe, without horses, armed only with spears and arrows,
and with an almost impenetrable forest in their rear
and about them. They are, on the other hand, semi-
2 o
314
civilised, and the only fear to be entertained regarding
them is their propensity to theft. As to fighting, I
have no hesitation in asserting that, with fifty breach-
loaders in the hands of good marksmen, the colony would
be effectually protected from any marauding visit on
their part. In addition to this, there are other colonies,
or inhabited places, between their territory and your
colony, and I have little fear, should it prove necessary
or desirable, of obtaining from the Minister of War the
extension of the actual frontier and its reinforcement by
troops of the Line, in sight of the important colony
about being established in that district.
System of Government. — I now come to the last of
your questions, and, in addition to various extracts from
authentic works bearing upon the country, its resources,
and government, I will give you, in as few words as
possible, a general sketch of its actual state and
prospects.
In the first place, the Government is Republican,
consisting of a President, elected for six years, and a
Federal Congress of Senators and Deputies for three
and six years — as nearly as possible identical with that
of the United States of North America. These form
what is called the National Government, which repre-
sents the country in its relations with foreign Powers,
collects the customs dues on imports and exports, ad-
ministers the postal service, attends to the national
debt, has complete control over the army and navy, and
undisputed jurisdiction on the rivers and sea coasts. In
addition to this, which is the general or head Govern-
ment, the Republic is divided into fourteen distinct and
independent provinces, each of which has its legisla-
tive, executive, and judicial authorities, who, within
315
their respective territories, are independent of
the National Government, and inviolable in their
sovereignty so long as they maintain and govern in ac-
cordance Avith the original constitution of the Republic.
And it is only in cases where, by violence or other
unconstitutional means, the duly constituted authorities
of the provinces are deposed, that the National Govern-
ment can interfere by force of arms or otherwise to
reinstate them, and then only at their specific and
official request. It is a remarkable fact that the
Argentine Republic, which was the first to declare itself
independent by throwing off the Spanish yoke, and
the medium through which nearly all the other South
American Republics followed its example, is the only
one which, from its foundation, declared by its constitu-
tion absolute freedom of religious worship. We find
now flourishing, at Buenos Ayres and other parts of the
country, religious institutions and churches of nearly
all persuasions. This in itself must be a great induce-
ment to foreigners to settle in the country, where they
can have clergymen of their own denomination without
interference on the part of the natives. These, though
Roman Catholics, are as a rule most tolerant and
free from bigotry. Their general behaviour and con-
duct towards foreigners is most corteous and polite, and,
after a residence of many years amongst them, it is only
just to state that I know of no country out of England
more agreeable to live in.
For the first time almost since the independence of
the country — now nearly half a century back — it enjoys
the blessings of peace, with a progressive and enligh-
tened Government, selected by the will of the people ;
for his Excellency, President Sarmiento, was selected
816
to fill this high post during his absence as Minister at
Washington, without having used any personal influence
to procure his return to the Presidential chair. He has
still almost five years of office before him, and should
he employ them as he has done his past one by the
initiation of railways, telegraphs, steam navigation,
mining enterprise, colonization, and other industrial
projects, brilliant hopes may be indeed entertained of a
prosperous future and a peaceful administration. He
has travelled so much in Europe and the United States,
studying our institutions and acquiring our language,
that his appreciation of foreigners, especially American
and English, is the surest safeguard and guarantee we
can have for the lives and properties of colonists, who
of themselves tend to increase the prosperity of the
country by populating and cultivating its almost bound-
less territory.
Taxation. — To foreigners, especially colonists, this is
an item of expenditure so trifling and unimportant that
it scarcely deserves more than a passing remark.
Foreigners, not colonists, in the rural districts pay only
what may be literally translated a "property tax"
(coniribucion directa) of 4 per 1,000 on the capital
invested therein. Colonists, as per concession from the
Government, are exempted from taxes for a period of
ten years, after which they will of course be obliged to
contribute in the same ratio as other foreigners not of
their class. In the cities and towns, where municipal
authorities are established, the usual lighting, police, and
paving taxes are payable in addition to those already
mentioned.
In conclusion, I have only to remark that I consider
the Argentine Republic, as a field for immigration, in-
317
ferior to none of our British colonies, and fully equal,
if not superior, to the United States or California.
To this latter country it may be more truthfully com-
pared, from its physical conditions and geographical
position, the salubrity of its climate, and natural pro-
ductions. It has, however, the great advantage of being
so much nearer to Europe, and consequently more
accessible to the agricultural classes, or others with
small means. The territory is so extensive and so
sparsely populated that for many years to come no fear
need be entertained of over-crowding and consequent
depreciation in the value of produce. According to the
last census, taken in the year 1869, I find, from official
data before me, that the entire population of the
Republic amounts only to 1,852,110, including 50,000
Indians, which the Minister of War sets down as being
distributed as follows : — In the Gran Chaco, or terri-
tory to the north of your colony, 15,000 ; on the Pampas
south and west of Buenos Ayres, 20,000; Patagonia,
south of Pampas, 15,000. When we recollect that only
this million and three quarters of souls are distributed
over a superficial area of 1,281,000 geographical miles
(more than four times the size of France) it may be
easily conceived what a great want and necessity it
must become to populate it, and how long a time must
elapse before a sufficient number of inhabitants will be
there to develoj) its varied and almost unlimited
resources. In the province of Buenos Ayres alone,
more than 150,000 foreigners reside now, nearly all
of whom are well to do, or at least make a far better
living than they could possibly expect to do in the too
densely populated districts of the Old World. For us
it is a consolation and a guarantee to know that more
318
than 40,000 British subjects are already settled in the
country, many of whom have already achieved, whilst
others have laid the foundation of considerable fortunes.
On my arrival out at the colony, and after a careful
exploration, I shall have much pleasure in supplying you
with more detailed and local information concerning
the lands and prospects for emigrants. Meanwhile,
I have the honour to remain. Gentlemen,
Your very obedient Servant,
F. IGNACIO RICKARD, F.G.S., &c..
Government Inspector of Mines,
(In Commission.)
APPEN"DIX.
The following information, relating to the country, is
published for the use of emigrants, by the Argentine
Government, and largely distributed by their agents
throuo-hout Europe. It is therefore given here as
official and authentic merely in confirmation of the fore-
going statements prepared from personal experience and
knowledge of the country : —
" The recommendations of the Argentine Republic to
Europeans are : — ■
" 1. That the climate is as healthy and as favourable
to vigour and longevity as that of England, or any
other country of Europe.
" 2. That its cultivable lands are practically of mi-
limited extent, and require no outlay for clearing.
"3. That it contains already, and especially at Buenos
Ayres, the capital, a large and prosperous European
319
population, composed of Italians, French, English,
Scotch, and Irish, Germans, Portuguese, and others.
" 4. That the Government is solidly established and
perfectly liberal, the aim of all parties being to maintain
the financial honour of the country, to preserve peace,
and to promote the development of industry and
commerce.
" 5. That, while the State religion is Roman Catholic,
complete toleration is upheld, churches of all denomina-
tions being established at Buenos Ayres and other
places, where a considerable portion of the settlers are
English or German Protestants or Scotch Presby-
terians.
"6. That there is weekly postal communications with
England and the Continent by powerful mail steamers
from Southampton, London, Liverpool, Falmouth and
Bordeaux.
" 7. That the commercial policy of the country is in
the direction of free trade.
"8. That there is a treaty of amity, commerce, and
navigation between Great Britain and the Republic, and
that foreigners are exempted from compulsory military
service or forced loans.
"9. That there are a sufficient number of British
subjects in the Republic to render a knowledge of the
Spanish language non-essential for immigrants, and
that this language is capable, during a short residence,
of being more easily acquired than any other ; likewise,
that an English daily newspaper is published at Buenos
Ayres, and that there is an influential English bank
and other institutions.
"10. That the staple productions of the country are
such as at all times command the markets of the world,
320
the principal exports being tallow, hides, and wool;
while, during the past year, a trade in preserved meat
has been opened up, which seems to promise, if suffi-
cient attention be given to establish a scientific process
of curing, to assume proportions as sudden and pro-
fitable as those of the newly-developed petroleum trade
of North America ; that there is also a mining district
in the interior provinces on the slope of the Andes,
which appears from the operations thus far conducted,
to be one of the richest silver, lead, and gold regions
yet discovered.
"11. That the country is being opened up in all
directions by English Railway enterprises, one of
which, the Rosario and Cordoba line, will be 247 miles
in length, and is considered to be ultimately destined
to cross the entire country to Chili, and thus to form a
highway for the traffic between the Atlantic and the
Pacific.
" 12. That the acquisition of land is easy and its
tenure secure, and that additional and extraordinary
facilities for settlement are being daily ofi'ered by the
Government and private individuals and companies.
"Finally, it is to be observed that the debt of the
country, foreign and internal, the interest on which is
paid with unfailing punctuality, is comparatively small ;
that it is gradually in course of extinction by a large
redeeming fund, and that the Six per Cent. Buenos
Ayrian Bonds in the London market range from 95 to
100, and those of the Republic between 85 and 90;
that there are no direct taxes, and that the commerce
of the country is increasing with such rapidity that in
the Board of Trade returns of British exports it figures
higher on the list than Chili or Peru, and as reo'ards
321
European countries, higher than Prussia, Sweden,
Norway, Denmark, and many others with which we
have an important traffic.
" The present population of the Argentine Re2)ubhc
is but about 2,000,000, and immigration may be said to
be its only want. This is felt and acknowledged by all
classes, and every arrival is therefore warmly welcomed .
The tide thither is gradually increasing, and persons
best acquainted with the country express a conviction
that the growth of Buenos Ay res, which at present is a
fine city, with about 200,000 inhabitants, will, during
the next twenty years, rival that which has been wit-
nessed at New York during the like period m the past.
In several cases persons of moderate capital have
emigrated from Australia and New Zealand to the
Argentine Republic, owing to the advantages of its-
greater proximity to England and its superior facilities
for the acquisition of land.
By far the greater portion of the country consists of
rich alluvial plains, constituting what are called the
Pampas. The climate is subject to a great difference of
temperature in winter and summer, but the changes
are gradual and regular. The winter is about as cold
as the English November, with white frosts, and ice at
sunrise. Taken as a whole, the Pampas ma}^ be said to
enjoy as beautiful and as salubrious an atmosphere as
the most healthy parts of Greece and Italy, and with-
out being subject to malaria.
"The country is universally celebrated for the
abundance of its cattle, horses, sheep, goats, asses,
mules, and swine. The number of cattle fifteen
years ago was estimated at 12,000,000, and the
horses, mules, and asses at more than 4,000,000, and
322
they are supposed since that period to have largely in-
creased.
" The salubrity of the climate seems especially bene-
ficial to immigrants from this country, its influence
being singularly restorative wherever there is a ten-
dency to bronchia] or pulmonary affections. In some
districts, such as that of the beautiful city and province
of Cordoba, these disorders appear to be almost un-
known, and as on the completion of the Central Argentine
Railway it will be possible to reach the city of Cordoba
from London in little more than a month, that place
may probably become a sanitarium for Europeans in a
majority of the most important cases where change of
climate is desirable.
" The following is a list of classes of immigrants most
required in Buenos Ayres : —
MONTHLY WAGES WITH BOARD.
Gardeners £z 15 o to ;^4 10 o
Farm Servants 2 5 o to 300
Home Servants, Men 2 5 o
„ ,, Women 2 o oto 3 o o
Cooks, Men 3 o oto 3 15 o
„ Women 2 5 o to 300
Boys, from 10 to 15 years o 15 o to i 5 o
Sempstresses 2 15 o
Millmers 2 15 o
Dressmakers 215 o
Laundresses 2 16 o
DAILY WAGES WITHOUT BOARD.
Bricklayers 6/-
Joiners 6/6
Blacksmiths 6/6
Shoemakers 7/6
Tailors 6/- to 9/-
Labourers 4/6
Railway, ditto 6/-
Miners —
Note. — Higher wages may be calculated upon in the interior pro-
vinces, and artizans of superior merit will always obtain more than is
-quoted.
323
" In the rural establishments, merely situated in the
suburbs of the capital, thousands of families may engage
themselves immediately.
" With respect to those immigrants who may come
to establish themselves hi the flourishing colonies of
Santa Fe,l]aradero, San Jose, or others actually form-
ing in various parts of the Republic, we do not hesitate
to say that, owing to the fertility of the land, they ^\^ill
rapidly acquire a modest fortune.
"In summer, farm labourers get 6s. to 7s. 6d. per day.
" The scarcity of domestic servants is notorious— a
preference being given to women.
" Sempstresses, milliners, dressmakers, and laundresses,
however numerous the arrivals, are certain of employ-
ment.
" Artizans of all descriptions, and immigrants, even
though of no fixed calling, will get employment to their
satisfaction immediately on landing.
" The railways now employ a large staff, but some
thousands of labourers are required for the earthworks
that are being pushed forward with the greatest activity.
" Immigrants — above all those with a knowledge of
mhierals^will find very lucrative employment m the
rich and numerous mines of San Juan, Mendoza, La
Rioja, Catamarca, and Cordoba, which are now being
worked with the most satisfactory results.
" A fortnightly journal, called The Brazil and River
Plate Mail^ is published in London by Messrs. Bates,
Hendy and Co., 4, Old Jewry, E.C.
J
TABf THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC, THEIR
[PLOYED, &c.
Mines
Value.
Catam:!
^31 I 5 o
B,3ii 5 o
San Jun^p34 i^ lo
8,549 I 3
Observations.
Capital and Produce included in Reduction Works.
Animals Employed— Oxen 220
Mules 3.000
„ Asses 290
3,.^10
3,483 17 I
La Rio'p,625 o o
1,968 15 o
7,693 15 o
MENDo(^^(j8g ^ 6
ft, 248 8 8
1,237 13 o
CordobI
8,917 16 4
8,917.16 4
San Lu
1,750 o o
50 o o
3,637 I 8
Total.
5>437 I 8
'0,299 o 2
2,045 6 3
3,647 I 8
5,991 8 I
Propo relation to the inhabitants of the Argentine Republic
, 6.666 per cent., or 66 2-3rd per 1,000.
There was Silver Regulus on surface to the value of
about £4,000.
Value included in Reduction Works.
Aninfals Employed— Oxen 302
„ Mules 297
599
The Gold is included in the Mines, valued at the
rate of £2 18s. 4d.per ounce.
GENEIiAL SUMMARY.
TABLE SHOWING THE MINES AND REDUCTION WORKS IN ACTIVE OPERATION IN THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC, THEIR
PRODUCE, CAPITAL INVESTED, NUMBER OF PERSONS EMPLOYED, &c.
1868.
Mines and Reduction Works
Whether Gold, Silver
Or Copper.
Capital
Invested.
Produce.
Value.
Active Operation.
-»•
SI....
Cm,
o^!l
o"r.
"7^:
5
14
5
3
3
4
28
2S
13
28
5.
9
6
138
866
61,718 15 0
.,692
84,759
14.892
£ ». J.
58,311 5 0
Reduction Works
Animkli Emplojed— Oxen 320
1.004
430
133
61,718 15 0
73,046 17 6
112,500 0 0
,1692
84,759
101,979
79.838
14,892
58,311 5 0
17,934 15 10
18,549 1 3
„ A«e' "0
22 (and II lead)
5
'•"»
Reduction Works
563
125
24
185,546 17 6
2,656 s 0
8,437 lo 0
■96
181,817
59,200
22,570
„
36483 17 1
15,625 0 0
1,968 15 0
7
S
Reduction Works
149
48
11,093 15 0
6,250 0 0
4,062 10 0
96
81,770
33,855
200
17,693 IS 0
4,989 4 6
4,248 8 8
4
Reduction Works
There wai Silver Regulus on lurface lo the Tslueol
.boul £(,000.
144
247
336
583
50
9<)
95
10,312 10 0
12,515 13 6
10,625 0 0
33,855
36,000
9,237 13 0
8,917 16 4
8 (and lead)
3 (and lead)
Reduction Works
""""j:iS\Z^trZ£j:.-. 30,
23,140 12 6
3,437 10 0
2,01s 12 6
703 2 6
600
1,266
36,000
■20
8,917.16 4
1,750 0 0
50 0 0
3,637 1 8
Reduction Works
Placer Washings .
"'..s-ir kv,"i.'°,rp;;on.'c"'""' '"""' ■' ""
244
i,oS6
i,50fi
95
6,156 5 0
97,906 s g
199,359 7 6
703 2 6
1,866
600
1,788
1,266
195,034
223,167
15,032
5,437 1 8
40,299 0 2
92,045 6 3
3,647 1 8
ToT»L. — Mines
Reduction Works
Placer Washings
46
'5
2 687 Ti-, "fi«
3,654
418,201
■5,032
135,991 8 1
'
1 to the capital invested. 45.60 per cent. Proportion of persons employed i
.179 percent., or 17 9.10th per 1,000; Ditto, California (population 780,00
I relation to the inhabitants of the Argentine Republic
)), 6.666 per cent., or 66 2-^tA per i.ooo.
39 rATEUiSOSTER KoW, E.C.
London: Jamicir// 18' o.
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INDEX.
Acton's Modern Cookery 20
Alcock's Residence in Japan 17
Allies on Formation of Christendom 15
Alpine Guide (The) 17
AxTHAUs on Medical Electricity 10
An DEE ws's Life of Oliver Crouiwell 3
Arnold's Manual of English Literature . . 6
Aenott's Elements of Physics 8
Arundines Cami 18
Autumn Holidays of a Country Parson 6
Atee's Treasury of Bible Knowledge 15
Bacon's Essays by Whately 5
Life and Letters, by Spedding . . 4
Works 5
Bain's Mental and Moral Science 7
on the Emotions and Will 7
on the Senses and Intellect 7
oil the Study of Character 7
Ball's Guide to the Central Alps 16
Guide to the Western Alps IG
Guide to the Eastern Alps 16
Baenard's Drawing from Nature 12
Batldon's Rents and Tillages 13
Beaten Tracks 16
Becker's Charicles and GaUus 18
Benfet's Sanskrit-English Dictionary 6
Black's Treatise on Brewing 20
Placklet's Word-Gossip 7
German-English Dictionary . . 6
Blaine's Rural Sports 19
Veterinary Art 19
Bourne on Screw Propeller 13
's Catechism of the Stoam Engine . . 13
Examples of Modern Engines . . 13
Handbook of Steam Engine .... 13
■ Treatise on the Steam Engine 13
Improvements in the Steam-
Engine 13
Bowdler's Family Shakspeare 18
Beande's Dictionary of Science, Literature,
and Art g
Brat's (C.) Education of the Feelings 7
Philosophy of Necessity 7
On Force 7
Browne's Exposition of the 39 Articles 14
Buckle's History of Civilisation 2
Bull's Hints to Mothers 20
Maternal Management of Children . . 20
Bunsen's Ancient Egypt 3
■ — God in History 3
Memoirs 4
Bunsen (E. De) on Apocrypha 15
's Keys of St. Peter 15
Buebuey's Mary's Every Day Book 20
Burke's Vicissitudes of Families 4
Burton's Christian Church ......' 3
Vikram and the Vampire 17
Cabinet Lawyer ..777.77. 20
Calvert's Wife's Manual 15
Cates's Biographical Dictionary 4
Cats and Faelie's Moral Emblems 12
Changed Aspects of Unchanged Truths 6
CnESNEY'a Euphrates Expedition 17
Indian Polity 2
Waterloo Campaign 2
Child's Physiological Essays 11
Chorale Book for England 11
Clough's Lives from Plutarch 2
Cobbe's Norman Kings 3
CoLENSO (Bishop) on Pentateuch and Book
of Joshua 15
Commonplace Philosopher in Town and
Country c
Conington's Chemical Analysis 9
Translation of Virgil's Jineid 19
CoNTANSEAu's Two French Dictionaries . . 6
CoNTBEAEEandHowsoN'sLife and Epistles
of St. Paul li
Cook's Acts of the Apostles 14
4
Cooper's Surgical Dictionary 10
Copland's Dictionary of Practical Medicine 11
Cotton's Introduction to Confirmation 14
Coulthart's Decimal Interest Tables .... 20
Counsel and Comfort from a City Pulpit . . 6
Cox's (G. W.) Manual of Mythology 18
Aryan Mythology 3
Tale of tlie Great Persian War 2
Tales of Ancient Greece
■ (H.) Ancient Parliamentary Elections
History of the Reform Bills ....
Whig and Tory Administrations
18
1
1
1
Crest's Encyclopaedia of Civil Engineering 13
Critical Essays of a Country Parson 6
Crowe's History of France 2
Cullet's Handbook of Telegraphy 12
Cusack's History of Ireland 2
Dart's Iliad of Homer 19
D'AUBIGN^'S History of the Reformation in
the time of Calvin 2
Davidson 's Introduction to New Testament 14
Dayman's Dante's Divina Commedia 19
Dead Shot (The), by Marksman 19
De la Rive's Treatise on Electricity 8
Denison's Vice-Regal Life 1
De Tocqueville's Democracy in America . 2
DoBSON on the Ox 19
22
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Dove's Law of Storms 8
DoTiE'a Fairyland 11
Dteb's City of Rome 3
Eastlake's Hints on Household Taste — 12
Historyof Oil Painting 11
Life of Gibson 11
Edmunds's Names of Places 6
Edwaeds's Shipmaster's Guide 20
Elements of Botany 9
Elxicott's Commentary on Ephesians 14
— Destiny of the Creature 14
: Lectures on Life of Christ .... 14
Commentary on Galatians .... 14
Pastoral Epist. 14
■ — Philippians,&c. 14
Thessalonians 14
Essays and Reviews 15
Ewald's History of Israel 14
Faiebaien's Application of Cast and
"Wrought Iron to Building 12
■ Information for Engineers .... 12
Treatise on Mills and Millwork IS
Iron Shipbuilding 13
Faeadat's Life and LettL'rs 3
Faeeae's Chapters on Language 5
Families of Speech 7
Felkin on Hosiery & Lace Manufactures. . 13
Ffoulees's Christendom's Divisions 15
FiTZWTGEAM On Horses and Stables 19
Five Years in a Protestant Sisterhood 14
Flamank's Diversities of Life 7
FoEBES's Earls of Granard 4
Fowler's Collieries and Colliers 20
Feancis's Fishing Book 19
Feeshfield's Travels in the Caucasus If!
Feoude's History of England 1
Short Studies G
Ganot's Elementary Physics 8
Gascoigne's Doctor Harold 18
Gilbert's Cadore 16
and Chxjechill's Dolomites .... 16
Gietin's House I Live In 11
Goldsmith's Poems, Illustrated 18
Gould's Silver Store 6
Geaham's Book About Words 5
Geant's Ethics of Aristotle 5
■ Home Politics 2
Graver Thoughts of a Country Parson 6
Gray's Anatomy 10
Geeknhow on Bronchitis 10
Geove on Correlation of Physical Forces . . 8
Guenet's Chaitters of French History .... 2
Gwilt's Encyclopaedia of Architecture .... 12
Hare on Election of Representatives 5
Haetwig's Harmonies of Nature 9
Polar World 9
' Sea and its Living Wonders .... 9
Tropical World "9
Hatch's Life of Shaftesbury 3
Haughton's JIanual of Geology 8
Hawkee'3 Instructions to Young Sports-
men 19
Heeschel's Outlines of Astronomy 7
Hewitt on the Diseases of Women 10
Holmes's Surgical Treatment of Children.. 10
System of Surgery 10
HooKEE and Walkee-Aenoti's British
Flora 9
HoENE's Introduction to the Scriptures . . 15
Compendium of the Scriptures .. 15
How we Spent the Summer 16
Howaed's Gymnastic Exercises 11
HowiTi's Australian Discovery 17
Northern Heights of London 17
Rural Life of England 17
Visits to Remarkable Places .... 17
Hughes's Manual of Geography 8
Hume's Essays 7
Treatise on Human Nature 7
HuMPHEEYs's Sentiments of Shakspeare . . 12
Ihne's Eoman History 2
Ingelow's Poems 18
Story of Doom 18
Mopsa 18
Instructions in Household Matters 20
Jameson's Legends of Saints and Martyrs . . 12
— Legends of the Madonna 12
Legends of the Monastic Orders 12
Legends of the Saviour 12
Johnston's Geographical Dictionary 8
Jukes on Second Death 15
on Types of Genesis 15
Kalisch's Commentary on the Bible 5
Hebrew G I ammar 5
Keith on Destiny of the World 14
Fulfilment of Prophecy 14
Keel's Metallurgy, by Ceookes and
Roheig 13
Kesteven's Domestic Medicine 11
Kieby and Spence's Entomology 9
Landon's (L. E. L.) Poetical Works 18
Latham's English Dictionary 5
River Plate 8
Lawloe's Pilgrimages in the Pyrenees .... 16
Lecky's History of European Morals 3
Rationalism 3
Leighton's Sermons and Charges 14
Leisure Hours in Town 6
Lessons of Middle Age 6
Letheby on Food 20
Lewis's Biographical History of Philosophy 3
Lewis's Letters 4
LicDELLand Scott's Greek-Eng'ish Lexicon 6
Abridged ditto 6
Life of Man SjTnbolised 11
MarL'aret M. Hallahan 14
LiNDLEY and Mooee'8 Treasury of Botany 9
Lindsay's Evidence for the Papacy 14
Longman's Edward the Third 2
Lectures on History of England 2
Chess Opi-nings 20
Lord's Prayer Illustrated 11
NEW WORKS PUBLISHED BY LONGMANS and CO.
23
LouDOK's Bncyclopaeilia of Agi-iculture — 13
, — Gardening 13
Plants 9
Lowndes's Engineer's Handbook 12
Lyra Eucharistica 1*5
Germanica 11, 16
Messianica ^^
Mystica ^^
Mabeldean 17
Macauiat's (Lord) Essays 3
History of England . . 1
Lays of Ancient Rome 18
— — Miscellaneous Writings 6
^^ Speeches 5
Works 1
Macpaeeen's Lectures on Harmony H
Mackintosu's Scenery of England and
Wales 8
Macieod's Elements of Political Economy 4
Dictionary of Political Economy 4
Elements of Banking 19
Theory and Practice of Banking 19
McCuiLOCH's Dictionary of Commerce 20
Geographical Dictionary .... 8
Maguiee's Life of Father Mathew 4
Manning's England and Christendom — 15
Maecet on the Larynx 10
Marshall's Physiology 11
Maeshman's History of India 2
Life of Havelock 4
Maetineau's Endeavours after the Chris-
tian Life 16
Martineau's Letters from Australia 16
Masset's History of England 1
Massingberd's History of the Reformation 3
Matheson's England to Delhi 16
Maundee's Biographical Treasury 4
Geogranhical Treasury 8
. Historical Treasury 3
Scientific and Literary Treasury 9
■ Treasury of Knowledge 20
Treasury of Natural History . . 9
Mauet's Physical Geography 8
Mat's Constitutional History of England. . 1
Melville's Digby Grand 18
. General Bounce 18
Gladiators 18
-.. Good for Nothing 18
—.- HolmbyHouse 18
I nterpreter 18
. Kate Coventry 18
Queen's Jlaries 18
Mendelssohn's Letters 4
Menes and Cheops 7
Meeivale'S (H.). Historical Studies 2
. (C.)Fallof the Roman Republic 3
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