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U  n 


i ver  s  i  ty    of    California,    Los    Angeles 


The 


Fritz  L.  Hoffmann  Collection 


A  Gift  of 


Olga  Mingo  Hoffmann 


)94 


^J^/Ji. 


^u-iL^iL 


THE 


MINERAL  AND  OTHER  RESOURCES 

OF  THK 

ARGENTINE    REPUBLIC 

(LA  PLATA) 

IN   1869. 


PUBLISHED    BY    SPECIAL    AUTHORITY    OF    THE 
NATIONAL  GOVERNMENT. 


BY 

MAJOR  F.  IGNACIO  RICKARD, 

FELLOW    OF  THE  GEOLOGICAL  SOCIETY;  FELLOW    OF    THE  ROYAL   GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETT 
COR.  MEM.  OF  THE  ANTHROPOLOGICAL  SOCIETY;  ASSOC.  INST.  CIVIL  ENGINEERS,  &,:.  fto.  ; 
GOVERNMENT  INSPECTOR-GENERAL  OF  MINES  OF  THE  ARGENTINE  R  EPUBLIC. 


LONDON: 
LONGMANS,    GREEN,    AND   CO, 

1870. 


LONDON : 
DUNLOP   AND   CO.,    PRINTERS, 

King'9-Head  Covirt,  Shoe  Lane, 
E.C. 


(Ml 


^^/xL^nxiJi 


DEDICATION 


TO 

H  IS    EXCELLENCY 

Dr.  don    DOMINGO    F.    SARMIENTO, 

CONSTITUTIONAL    PRESIDENT 

OF 

THE  ARGENTINE  REPUBLIC; 

SCHOLAR,    SOLDIER,    AND    STATESMAN; 

SELF    MADE    AND    SELF   SUSTAINING; 

A    WISE    RULER  ; 

A    PRUDENT    DIPLOMATIST  ; 

AND   GREAT   CHAMPION   OF   EDUCATION. 

Accept  this  small  tribute  of  esteem  and  admiration,  from  one  who  has 
the  honour  of  toiling  with  you  in  the  noble  task  of  stimulating 
industry  and  civilization  in  your  native  country.     May 
this  little  book  prove  another  step  in  the  right 
direction,  and  assist  in  developing  some  of 
your  grand  schemes  for  the  regene- 
ration of  your  peoples. 

With  profound  respect,  believe  me  to  be, 

Your  Excellency's  sincere  Friend, 

THE  AUTHOR. 


P  R  E  E  A  C  E . 


Prp:vi()US  to  1865,  when  the  Aroenthie  Republic  first 
appeared  as  a  borrower  for  a  small  sum  in  our  mar- 
ket, the  very  existence  of  such  a  country  was  almost 
ignored  in  Great  Britain.  Five  short  years  have 
Avrought  a  wonderful  change.  Its  Bonds,  issued  then 
at  72 J,  are  to-day  quoted  at  92^,  and  likely  to  reach 
U5  before  the  end  of  the  year.  This  is  the  most  elo- 
quent proof  I  can  give  of  the  growing  importance  and 
settled  political  state  of  that  vast  Republic.  If  its  credit 
abroad  is  good,  so  is  its  prosperity  and  internal  wealth 
increasing  daily  at  home.  Ten  years  ago  there  were 
not  50  miles  of  railway  in  the  country ;  now  there  are 
nearly  500  miles  completed  and  working,  whilst  nearly 
800  more  are  in  course  of  construction  or  projected. 

Ten  years  ago  we  had  not  a  single  mile  of  telegraph 
in  the  country ;  to-day  the  electric  wire  may  be  met 
on  the  wild  pampa,  the  barren  desert,  or  climbing  the 
giant  Andes  and  girding  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific. 
A  submarine  cable  connects  Monte  Video  with  Buenos 
Ayres.  The  capital  of  Brazil  will  soon  be  in  instan- 
taneous communication  with  us  overland,  by  a  route  not 
less  than  1,000  miles ;  and  within  a  year  we  may  expect 
to  be  in  telegraphic  communication  with  Europe  via 
the  Pacific,  Panama,  and  New  York. 

A  National  Exhibition  of  the  products  of  the  country, 
and  to  which  will  be  admitted  a  few  objects  from 
Europe,  will  be  held  at  Cordoba  in  October  next.  A 
well  appointed  Observatory  will  be  also  concluded  by 
that  time  at  the  same  place,  and  an  able  astronomer 
has  been  engaged  by  the  National  Government  to  make 
observations  in  the  midst  of  that  "sea  of  land,"  where 


PREFACE. 

no  intervening  mountains  exist  to  interfere  with  his 
labours,  and  where  im])ortant  discoveries  are  expected 
to  be  made. 

All  these  advanced  and  enlightened  movements  will 
tend  to  show  hoW  rapid  has  been  our  progress,  and  how 
important  will  be  our  future  career.  With  a  fast  in- 
creasing immigration,  an  arduous  and  long  protracted 
Avar  just  concluded,  peace  and  tranquillity  reigning 
throughout  the  country,  and  a  liberal  and  progressive 
Government,  established  on  a  firm  constitutional  basis, 
lead  by  an  able  President  and  Prime  Minister,  I  am 
_j:::^?i§tified  in  expressing  my  sincere  conviction  that  the 
Argentine  Republic  is  destined  to  become  the  first  in 
commercial  wealth  and  influence  of  all  the  South 
American  Republics. 

I  have  come  forward  to  lend  my  insignificant  aid  in 
making  known  a  few  of  her  vast  resources,  and  I  trust 
the  following  pages  may  serve  to  instruct  those  eager  for 
information,  whilst  they  will  not  tire  the  general  reader. 

I  do  not  pretend  for  a  moment  to  any  literary  merit 
in  its  production,  well  knowing  that  it  has  none,  but 
simply  to  convey,  in  plain  concise  language,  such  infor- 
mation as  I  possess  regarding  a  country  comparatively 
unknown,  and  consequently  unappreciated  in  Europe. 

My  very  limited  stay  in  England  has  not  allowed  me 
to  devote  that  time  and  attention  to  the  preparation  and 
correction  of  the  present  work  for  the  press  that  I  could 
have  wished,  and  this  must  be  my  excuse  for  any  errors 
that  may  be  noted,  more  especially  in  the  latter  pages 
of  the  book. 


Consuhite  General  of  the  Argentine  Republic, 
London,  April,  1870. 


CONTENTS 


P»ga 

Note  Addressed  to  the    Minister   of  the    Interior,    ac- 
companying Official  Report    9 

Introductory  Remarks  13 

Province  of  San  Luis: — 

Geographical  Position,  General  Physical  Aspect,  &c 21 

Climate  and  Natural  Vegetation  25 

Principal  Productions,  Exports,  &c 27 

Capital  of  the  Province  29 

The  Indians  Driven  Back 30 

Mineral  Resources,  &c 31 

Canada  Honda  Mining  District    36 

Placer  Washings,  Description  of 38 

Mining  District  of  La  Carolina     41 

Gold  Produce  of  La  Carolina  and  Canada  Honda,  Geological 

Formation  or  District,  &c 45 

Means  of  Communication  and  Transport  46 

Population  of  Province   46 

Province  of  Mendoza  : — 

Geographical  Position,  General  Physical  Aspect,  &c 47 

Climate,  Soil,  and  Natural  Vegetation    55 

Land  under  Cultivation,  Produce  of  Wheat,  &c 57 

The  Grape,  its  Growth,  and  Wine  Manufacture  56 

Fattening  of  and  Traffic  in  Cattle    59 

Town  of  Mendoza,  Public  Buildings,  &c 60 

Immigration  to  Province   62 

Mineral  Resources,  &c 63 

Famous  Copper  Mine  in  Cerro  Payen    64 

Mining  District  of  Paramillo  de  Uspallata 65 

Messrs.  Canto  and  Villanueva's  Reduction  Works 69 

Extensive  Petroleum  Deposits 76 

Thermal  Springs 78 

Means  of  Communication  and  Transport  " 80 

Population  of  Province  8 1 

Province  of  San  Juan: — 

Geographical  Position,  Physical  Aspect,  &c 82 

Climate,  Soil,  Natural  Vegetation,  and  Agriculture     87 

The  City  of  San  Juan,  Public  Buildings,  &c 92 

M  ineral  Resources 99 

Mining  District  of  Tontal  loo 

Amalgamation  Works  "  Sorocayense  "      108 

I        Smelting  and  Amalgamation  Works  at  "  Hilario" no 

Reduction  Works  at  Castaiio    114 

Mining  District  of  Castafio    115 


■%^' 


CONTENTS. 

/Gold  Mining  District  of  Gualilan ii8 

— ^  Gold  Mining  District  of  Guachi    122 

Mining  District  of  I.a  Huerta 126 

Coal  Deposits  133 

Reduction  Works  "  El  Argentine  "     137 

Means  of  Communication  and  Transport  144 

Province  of  La  Rioj  \  : 

Geographical  Position,  Physical  Aspect,  &c 147 

Climate,  Soil,  Irrigation,  and  Natural  Vegetation 152 

City  of  La  Rioja,  Public  Buildings,  &c 156 

Population  of  Province   160 

Mineral  Resources,  &c If>o 

Silver  Mines  of  Famatina 162 

Auriferous  District 163 

Silver  Mines  of  Cerro  Negro    164 

Mining  District  of  La  Mejicana   166 

Reduction   Establishments 170 

Reduction  of  Argentiferous  Lead  Ores  177 

Province  of  Catamarca : — 

General  Physical  Aspect,  Description  of  Soil,  Climate,  &:c.    ...   184 

The  City  of  Catamarca 194 

Mineral  Resources,  &c 200 

Carranza,  Molina,  and  Co.'s  Mines    206 

Copper  Reduction  Works 208 

Auriferous  and  Argentiferous  Copper  Smelting  at  Pilcao  209 

Province  of  Tucuman  : — 

General  Physical  Aspect,  Description  of  Soil,  Climate,  &c.    ...  222 

Natural  Vegetation,  Productions,  and  Agriculture  229 

City  of  Tucuman 234 

Extent  of  Land  under  Cultivation     237 

Cheapness  of  Labour 238 

Province  of  Santiago  del  Estero  : — 

General  Physical  Aspect,  &c 239 

Nature  of  Soil 243 

Climate  and  Natural  Productions 244 

Cultivation  of  Cereals,  Manufactures,  &c 247 

Town  of  Santiago  del  Estero     249 

Province  of  Cordoba  : — 

General  Physical  Aspect  of  Province  253 

The  Soil  of  the  Eastern  Plain  of  Cordoba 257 

Climate,  Natural  Productions,  Agriculture,  &:c 259 

Principal  Commerce   and  Exportation  of  Cattle   260 

City  of  Cordoba,  Principal  Edifices,  &c 263 

The  Press  of  Cordoba    266 

Colonization  and  Future  Prospects  of  the  Province 267 

Letter  of  President  Sarmiento  on  Immigration     271 

Mineral  Resources,  Sec 276 

Reduction  Works 285 

Coal  Deposits  294 

General  Observations 296 


9 

Tn-tpednr  Gpneral  of  Mlneit'  department. "] 


Buenos  Ayrrs,  June  I9th,  1869, 


To  His  Excellency  the  Minister  op  the  Interiok, 
Dr.  Dalmacio  Velez  Sarsfield. 


Your  Excellency, 


Under  date  of  19th  November  last  I  received  your 
instructions  to  proceed  on  a  tour  of  inspection  tlirougli  the  mineral 
districts  of  the  Republic,  and  present  a  detailed  report  thereon  to  the 
National  Government.  The  principal  points  contained  in  those  in- 
structions were  as  follows  : — 

"1.  To  visit  the  mines  of  La  Carolina  in  San  Luis;  those  of 
Uspallata  and  Paramillo  in  Mendoza ;  Tontal,  Castailo,  Huachi, 
Gaalilan,  and  La  Huerta  in  San  Juan  ;  Famatina  in  La  Rioja  ;  the 
mineral  districts  of  Belen  (Capillitas),  and  the  copper,  gold,  and 
silver  mines  in  Catamarca ;  and  the  galena  and  other  mines  in 
Cordoba. 

"  2.  To  report  on  the  different  classes  of  ores  extracted,  and  on 
those  not  yet  of  commercial  value  which  may  be  utilized  later  on  ; 
on  mineral  substances  useful  in  the  arts,  and  which  may  be  con- 
sidered as  aiixillaries  in  the  smelting  or  treatment  of  ores;  on  mines 
in  active  operation,  with  the  results  obtained  and  number  of  work- 
men employed ;  on  metallurgical  establishments,  companies,  capital, 
machinery  used,  systems  in  practice,  and  the  obstacles  and  draw- 
backs with  which  they  have  to  contend ;  on  coal  or  carboniferous 
deposits — their  quality,  extent,  and  commercial  value  ;  on  roads  and 
means  of  communication,  and  how  the  same  may  be  developed  and 
improved." 

To  all  these  points  I  have  devoted  my  most  serious  attention,  and 
now  present  to   your  Excellency  a  detailed  account  of  my  mission. 

The  mineral  regions  of  the  Republic  are  of  vast  extent ;  the  means 
of  communication  and  transport  slow,  and  in  the    worst  possible 

B 


10 

condition.  The  time  at  my  disposal  was  extremely  short  for  the 
acf^oraplishment  of  the  great  task  I  had  to  perform,  and  this  in  the 
height  of  summer  and  in  regions  at  once  hot,  barren,  aadjtenie,  the 
difficulties  with  which  I  had  to  contend  were,  therefore,  neither  few 
nor  unimportant.  Nevertheless,  I  do  not  believe  there  is  a  single 
known  mine  in  the  provinces  visited  which  I  have  not  inspected, 
and  the  length  of  my  report  will  prove  to  your  Excellency  with 
what  minuteness  I  have  collected  the  data  submitted  to  your  COU' 
sideiation. 

I  have  had  to  encounter  many  obstacles,  and  to  work  incessantly  in 
order  to  obtain  the  statistics  which  accompany  my  report,  for  the 
miners  rarely  keep  books  or  accounts  ;  the  majority  pay  very  little 
attention  to  preserving  a  record  of  expenses  and  returns,  and  few 
conld  give  me  any  information  on  this  subject. 

Few  in  the  Republic  could  have  believed  that  2,687  persons  are 
employed  in  our  nascent  mining  industry,  or  at  the  rate  of  17iu  for 
every  1,000  inhabitants  in  the  country.  In  California — a  country 
which  dedicates  its  attention  almost  entirely  to  mining — -52,000 
persons  are  exclusively  emjjloyed  in  its  mines,  or  at  the  rate  of  66^3 
for  every  thousand  inhabitants.  Nineteen  years  ago  there  were  not 
1,500  persons  so  engaged. 

The  2,687  persons  employed  in  our  mining  industry  have,  doubtless, 
families  more  or  less  numei'ous  dependent  upon  them  for  support. 
It  is  not  an  exaggerated  calculation  to  state  these  at  an  average  of 
say  three  to  one,  or  8,061 ;  and,  further,  if  we  include  those  who  are 
indirectly  dependent,  as  being  occupied  in  providing  fuel  and  articles 
of  necessity  for  their  maintenance,  at  the  rate  of  two  to  one,  we  have 
then  a  total  of  32,244  persons  materially  interested  in  our  mining 
prosperity,  or  21^  for  every  1000  inhabitants  of  the  country.  But 
it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  nearly  two-thirds  of  the  entire  po- 
pulation of  the  country — say,  1,250,000 — inhabit  Buenos  Ayres  and 
other  riverine  provinces  almost  exclusively  dedicated  to  grazing 
and  agriculture  ;  hence  we  must  take  the  projDortion  of  those  engaged 
in  mining  pursuits  in  relation  only  to  the  number  of  the  inhabitants 
of  the  Andine  or  mineral  provinces  ;  and  in  this  case  it  would  re- 
precent  oo^  for  every  1,000. 

Our  poor  miners,  contending  against  a  thousand  difficulties  and 
drawbacks,  and,  above  all,  with  the  want  of  means  of  communication 
and  trausjiort,  have  invested  £290,000  in  mining  operations,  and  in 
the  year  1868  produced  3,G54  ounces   of  gold,  418,273  ounces  of 


11 

silver,  and  751  o  tons  of  copper,  the  value  of  which,  excluding  1,U86| 
tons  of  lead,  amounts  to  about  £133,000.  The  proportion  of  this 
gross  return  to  the  capital  invested  is  45"  60  per  cent. 

These  figures  with  regard  to  our  mineral  productions,  probably 
fall  short  of  the  actual  truth,  as  we  have  no  reliable  data  as  to 
what  is  taken  away  by  plrqioineros  (erratic  miners)  and  others, 
who  steal  the  precious  metals  and  carry  them  clandestinely  out  of 
the  country.  I  am  anxious  to  avoid  any  exaggeration  in  estimating 
the  mining  produce  of  the  Republic,  and  have,  I  believe,  gone 
rather  under  than  over  the  mark  in  this  respect. 

The  majority  of  the  systems  for  reduction  of  the  ores  are  de- 
fective and  costly,  and  more  particularly  those  for  the  reduction 
of  argentiferous  lead  and  for  amalgamation.  In  the  former  the  loss 
of  precious  metal  (as  also  the  lead)  cannot  be  less  than  25  per  cent, 
of  the  total  quantity  of  silver  present  in  the  ores.  Up  to  the  present 
time  lead  has  had  little  or  no  commercial  value  in  San  Juan,  and 
a  total  loss  of  50  per  cent,  is  there  incurred.  In  Cordoba  the  loss  is 
not  less,  but  the  remaining  lead  is  utilized  for  the  manufacture  of 
shot. 

All  this  shows  the  necessity  of  many  reforms,  which  science,  ex- 
perience, and  time  can  alone  introdu.ce.  Schools  and  instruction 
are  needed  to  avoid  the  errors  which  spring  from  inexperience  and 
ignorance.  We  want  foreign  immigration,  composed  of  men  of  in- 
telligence and  practically  acquainted  with  mining  and  metallurgy. 
Thus  the  material  capital  will  be  furnished  and  pecuniary  capital 
will  soon  follow. 

Without  further  deviation  from  the  subject  of  this  report,  I  will 
simply  state  that  during  the  208  days  which  I  have  been  in  com- 
mission I  have  ridden  4,320  miles,  tiie  greater  part  over  rough  and 
barren  country,  and  through  rugged  passes  of  the  Cordillera  of  the 
Andes. 

In  conclusion,  I  have  much  pleasure  to  inform  your  Excellency 
that  the  Provincial  Governments  have  readily  afforded  me  every 
co-operation,  and  have  done  everything  in  their  power  to  assist  me 
in  efiectually  carrying  out  the  objects  of  my  mission. 

Trusting  your  Excellency  will  lay  the  present  communication,  with 
the  accompanying  report,  before  his  Excellency,  the  President  of  the 
Republic, 

I  have  the  honour  to  remain,  your  Excellency's 
Most  obedient  Servant, 

F.  IGNACIO  RICKARD,  F.G.S.,  A.I.C.E.,  &c. 


INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS. 


In  presenting  tu  the  English  reading  public  a,  trans- 
lation of  my  Official  Report  on  the  Mineral  and  other 
Resources  of  the  Argentine  Republic,  I  am  only  influ- 
enced by  the  desire  to  make  known,  in  however  superficial 
and  imperfect  a  manner,  the  great  fields  there  existing  for 
the  judicious  employment  of  capital,  energy,  and  intelli- 
gence, which  alone  are  required  to  develop  and  make  it 
productive. 

For  the  first  time  since  the  Argentine  Republic  de- 
clared its  independence,  has  the  Constitutional  Govern- 
ment been  able  to  lay  before  the  Congress  a  succint 
and  authentic  report  upon  the  mining  industry,  struggling 
as  it  is  gradually  to  raise  itself  into  notice,  and  having 
to  contend  against  all  the  preconceived  prejudices  of  an 
unbelieving,  because  an  uninitiated,  public  in  the  capital 
and  lower  provinces. 

But  President  Sarmiento,  whose  practical  experience 
in  Chili,  Peru,  and  the  United  States,  in  connection  with 
mining  matters,  fully  fits  him  for  the  task,  resolved,  on 
ascending  the  Presidential  chair,  to  make  an  effort  to 
bring  prommently  before  the  country  the  importance  of 
its  mineral  wealth.  With  rapidly  increasing  population 
and  railway  communication,  the  risks  and  difficulties 
which  formerly  surrounded  initiatory  undertakings  of 
this   class  are   now   rapidly    disappearing.        His  great 


14 

object  is  to  occuj)y  the  utteutioii  of  the  masses, — hordes 
of  wandering  gauchos — whose  calling  and  modes  of  life 
hitherto  tended  to  induce  a  spirit  of  revolt  against  order 
or  governmental  restraint,  and  hence  at  every  oppor- 
tunity joining  in  riotous  and  revolutionary  outbreaks, 
simply  because  they  have  not  had  a  fixed  and  certain 
means  of  livelihood.  Now  of  all  the  occupations  likely 
to  attract  such  a  volatile  and  unsettled  race  as  the 
Hispano- American,  I  know  of  none  so  enticing  and  ex- 
citing as  mining,  with  its  attendant  industries. 

This  has  been  recently  proved  in  the  most  unquestion- 
able manner.      I  have  known  some  of  the  most  famous 
gauchos    and  freebooters,   who  were  for  years  justly 
dreaded  alike  by  Government  and  individuals,  who  are 
now  industriously  occupied  in   working  silver   mines 
in  Rioja,  attracting  by  their  example  their  former  com- 
panions in  arms,  and  behaving  in  the  most  exemplary 
manner.    Since  mining  has  been  fostered  by  the  Govern- 
ment in  the  Argentine  States,  during  President  Sarmi- 
ento's  administration,  not  a  single  outbreak  has  occurred, 
and  peace  seems  now  to  be  established  on  a  sure  and 
lasting  basis. 

The  acquisition  of  mining  property  in  that  country 
is  one  of  the  most  simple  and  inexpensive  procedures 
possible  to  desire.  The  discoverer  is  entitled  to  all  mineral 
veins  he  may  find  in  the  mountains,  without  regard  to 
the  owner  of  the  soil,  who  exercises  no  right  to  the  mine- 
ral deposits  contained  beneath  the  surface — save  and 
except  when  he  is  the  discoverer.  This  law,  however, 
does  not  apply  to  coal,  salt,  sulphur,  or  quarries — all  of 
which  belong  exclusively  to  the  owner  of  the  soil.  But 
in  the  case  of  mineral  veins,  the  discoverer,  or  his  re- 
presentative, by  purchase  or  otherwise,    must  comply 


15 

with  certain  rules  and  restrictions  in  order  to  secure 
his  or  their  title.  That  is  to  say,  he  must  work  the 
claim  (which  consists  of  from  200  yards  long  by  100 
wide  to  200  yards  square  according  to  the  underlie) 
constantly,  or  at  least  without  allowing  90  consecutive 
days  to  elapse  at  any  period,  and  with  at  least  four 
miners;  otherwise  he  exposes  the  property  to  be  de- 
nounced by  another  (any  one — the  lirst  who  knows  of 
its  forfeiture),  who  will  be  entitled  to  it  on  the  same 
terms  as  his  predecessor,  and  must  comply  with  similar 
obligations. 

The  Government  are  prepared  to  treat  in  the  most 
liberal  spirit  all  enterprises  having  for  their  object  the 
development  of  the  mineral  resources  or  manufacturing 
industries  in  the  republic,  and  I  am  authorized  by  his 
Excellency,  the  President,  to  assure  all  intending  in- 
vestors who  may  go  there  with  this  object,  that  every 
assistance  and  facility  will  be  afforded  them  in  the 
realization  of  their  projects. 

Boundless  tracts  of  the  most  fertile  land,  unpeopled 
and  neglected,  exist  in  every  state  of  the  Republic, 
requiring  only  population  and  energy,  with  a  moderate 
outlay,  to  make  productive  fields  for  profit  and  form 
the  basis  of  a  fortune  and  home  for  hundreds  of  thou- 
sands of  our  overburdened  rural  population.  Blessed 
with,  perhaps,  the  finest  climate  in  the  world — where, 
from  the  extent  of  territory,  larger  than  Europe  (ex- 
cepting Russia),  any  temperature  may  be  selected  to 
live  in, — the  Argentine  Republic  is  destined  to  become, 
at  no  distant  day,  the  great  rival  of  the  United  States 
as  a  field  for  immigration ;  and  once  populated,  in  even 
a  less  degree  than  that  country,  its  great  internal  wealth 
and  resources  -agricultural  as  well   as   mineral — must 


16 

/    make  it  stride   far  ahead  of  it,  and  become  at  once  the 
\\    Great  Republic  of  the  South. 

In  no  country  in  the  world  is  the  construction  of  rail- 
ways so  facile  and  inexpensive.  Our  great  pampas,  or 
level  plains,  stretclmig  away  for  a  thousand  miles  east 
and  west,  present  no  obstacle  to  the  laying  down  of 
permanent  way,  almost  without  earthworks.  We  pos- 
sess iron  and  coal  in  large  and  as  yet  unknown  quantities, 
which,  later  on,  will  be  developed  and  supply  us  with 
that  sine  qua  non  for  a  nation's  prosperity  and  civiliza- 
tion. 

Already  the  locomotive  is  penetrating  slowly  but 
surely  into  the  vast  pampa,  and  every  mile  of  rails  laid 
down  is  equivalent  to  a  large  instalment  of  capital  to 
develop  our  great  resources. 

The  Central  Argentine  Railway  has  now  arrived  at 
Cordoba,  one  of  the  most  important  mming  districts 
in  the  Republic,  and  surveys  and  explorations  are  actually 
being  made  by  a  corps  of  Government  Engineers  for  its 
prolongation  to  the  rich  and  fertile  gardens  of  Tucuman, 
where  sugar,  rice,  tobacco,  and  cotton,  sufficient  to  supply 
Great  Britain,  might  be  produced  with  facility  and  suc- 
cess. On  its  way  there  this  important  line  will  open 
up  to  lucrative  development  the  great  auriferous  copper 
mines  of  Catamarca,  where,  at  the  present  moment,  and 
notwithstanding  the  enormous  expense  of  land  carriage 
over  800  miles  of  country  on  pack  mules,  the  operations 
in  bar  copper  holding  gold  leave  a  reasonable  profit  to 
Mr.  Lafoue,  the  spirited  owner  of  the  mines.  Last  year 
his  net  profit  amounted  to  £12,000. 

This  line  will  also  tend  to  develop  the  resources  of  the 
rich  and  important  province  of  Santiago  del  Estero,  so 
lonsr  isolated  from  the  centres  of  commerc  e.      We   find 


17 

growing  there,  in  the  wildest  kixuriance  and  abundance, 
as  an  indigenous  plant,  the  indigofera  tinctoria^  producing 
a  first-class  indigo,  whose  value  has  been  determined 
by  competent  judges  in  Europe.  There  we  also  find 
in  abundance  the  cochineal  of  commerce,  but  neglected, 
save  by  the  peasantry  in  dying  their  rough  fabrics. 

The  eastern  extension  of  this  great  trunk  line,  now 
being  carried  out,  in  the  direction  of  San  Luis,  Men- 
doza,  and  San  Juan,  will  open  up  a  vast  field  in  agricul- 
tural, pastoral,  vinicultural,  and  mineral  wealth. 

The  rich  silver-lead  mines  of  San  Juan  and  Mendoza 
will  then  become  objects  of  earnest  competition,  and 
their  produce,  instead  of  going  across  the  Andes  to  Chili, 
will  flow  down  to  its  natural  outlet,  the  River  Plate, 
and  swell  the  value  of  our  exports  by  some  millions  of 
dollars.  The  rich  gold  fields  at  Gualilan,  in  the  province 
of  San  Juan,  now  being  worked  by  the  Anglo- Argentine 
Company  with  exclusively  British  capital  and  enterprise, 
are  second  to  none  yet  discovered  in  South  America, 
and  will  rival  the  famous  Don  Pedro  North  del  Rey,  in 
Brazil,  which  has  paid  100  per  cent,  for  some  years  past, 
and  still  continues.  The  able  chairman  of  this  latter, 
Mr.  Henry  Haymen,  is  also  at  the  head  of  our  Anglo- 
Argentine  enterprise. 

The  San  Luis  gold  fields  are  no  less  important  in  extent 
and  quality,  and  I  trust  to  see  within  the  next  year 
such  an  amount  of  capital  and  intelligence  brought  to 
bear  upon  them  as  will  produce  brilliant  results  and 
positive  returns 

Mendoza  and  San  Juan  can  produce  wine  enough 
to  supply  the  whole  of  the  lower  Riverine  Provinces, 
and  if  proper  care  were  exercised  in  its  manufacture  and 
subsequent  treatment,  it  would  be  of  a  class  superior  to 


18 

the  majority  of  wines  imported  to  Buenos  Ayres  from 
Europe.  I  give,  in  its  proper  place,  approximate  statistics 
of  the  actual  produce,  which  is  much  more  than  there  is 
consumption  for  on  the  spot,  and  this  might  be  increased 
to  an  unlimited  extent  had  we  a  cheap  and  expeditious 
means  of  transport. 

The  provinces  of  Cordoba  and  Santa  Fe  as  agricul- 
tural districts  offer  many  inducements  to  the  over- 
burdened tenant  farmer  and  small  occupier  in  Great 
Britain,  where  the  introduction  of  high  class  machinery 
for  cultivating  the  soil  has  now  made  their  calling  most 
precarious  and  comparatively  profitless.  For  they  can- 
not compete  with  steam  on  the  one  hand,  nor  on  the 
other  afford  to  purchase  expensive  fertilizers  to  renovate 
the  already  exhausted  soil,  which  their  ancestors  tilled 
for  centuries.  In  the  new  world  the  reverse  is  the 
case.  There  we  find  virgin  ground  so  rich  as  almost  to 
require  impoverishing  before  it  will  yield  quality  in 
preference  to  quantity,  in  cereal  and  other  crops,  which 
in  Europe  must  be  humoured  and  coaxed  to  mature  at 

/  Flax  will  grow  in  such  abundance  on  our  plains,  and 
of  such  long  fibre,  that  manufacturers  will  eagerly  com- 
pete to  secure  it  on  presentation  in  European  markets, 
and  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when  the  Argentine  Ke- 
public  may  stand  foremost  in  the  ranks  as  an  exporter 

C of  this  important  staple. 
The  Central  Argentine  Railway  Company  possess 
some  900,000  acres  of  first-class  land,  which  is  now 
being  rapidly  populated  by  eager  colonists,  who,  within 
the  next  ten  years,  will  form  a  large  and  important 
community  in  themselves.  Towns  and  villages  will 
rapidly  spring  up  at  intervals  along  the  iron  track,  and 


19 

what  is  to-day  a  wilderness  will  soon  become  a  luxuriant 
garden,  peopled  with  bright  faces  and  studded  with 
happy  homes. 

In  the  province  of  Santa  Fe,  and  accessable  by  large 
navigable  rivers  (the  Parana  and  its  tributaries),  recent 
valuable  concessions  of  land  have  been  acquired  by  one 
of  the  first  commercial  firms  in  Great  Britain.  Per- 
suaded of  the  great  future  opening  up  in  that  territory,  f  J 
the  house  of  Messrs.  J.  Thomson,  T.  Bonar  &  Co,, 
have  resolved~to~ people  a  tract  of  i(55,0(JD~acres  of 
valuable  land  along  the  rivers,  and  will  offer  freehold 
farms  there  for  such  a  trifling  sum,  and  with  such  gua- 
rantees to  the  colonists,  as  cannot  fail  to  attract  a  first- 
class  British  population. 

Owing  to  a  scarcity  of  labour  the  Argentine  Republic 
has  hitherto  been  an  importer  of  flour,  but  from  all 
appearances  it  is  soon  likely  to  exceed  in  production  the 
internal  consumption,  and  within  a  few  years  will  begin 
to  rank  as  a  large  wheat  exporting  country — superseding 
Chili  and  California  in  this  respect,  from  its  more 
favourable  geographical  position,  and  proximity  to 
Europe  and  Brazil. 

The  sj^stem  I  have  adopted  in  laying  before  my  readers 
the  information  contained  in  the  following  pages  is  simply 
a  translation  of  the  original  text,  written  by  myself  in 
Spanish,  and  publi>.hed  by  order  of  the  National  Govern- 
ment at  Buenos  Ayres.  I  give  the  diflerent  provinces  in 
their  order  as  they  were  visited  by  me  during  my  late 
tour  of  inspection,  and  being  obliged  to  omit  some  of 
the  provinces  of  the  Eepublic,  as  they  do  not  bear  ujDon 
my  principal  subject — mining. 

The  Republic  consists  of  14  independent  provinces, 
I  only  describe  8,  and  the  general  description  of  some 


20 

in  their  physical  and  commercial  aspects  only,  I  have 
found  so  exact  and  faithful  in  the  new  standard  work 
on  the  Argentine  Confederation,  written  by  the  late 
Dr.  Martin  de  Moussy,  that  I  cannot  do  better  than 
follow  his  text,  translating  it  from  the  French.  Un- 
fortunately comparatively  few  copies  of  this  valuable 
book  (3  vols.)  are  now  in  circulation,  as  nearly  the  whole 
edition  was  destroyed  by  a  fire  which  not  long  ago  oc- 
curred at  the  Government  House  in  Buenos  Ayres,  and 
which  also  resulted  in  the  loss  of  a  great  part  of  the 
public  archives. 

Having  come  to  Europe  on  a  mission  from  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  Republic,  I  am  obKged,  amid  a  host  of  other 
things,  to  pass  this  work  rapidly  through  the  press,  as 
my  time  is  so  very  short  before  returning.  I  must  there- 
fore beg  for  indulgence  from  my  readers,  and  pray  they 
will  not  look  upon  it  as  a  literary  production,  but  simply 
as  a  plain  statement  of  dry  facts,  and  an  irregular  com- 
pilation of  diversified  matter,  having  only  for  its  object 
the  publication  of  data  from  the  most  reliable  sources 
never  heretofore  given  to  the  British  public. 


21 


PROVINCE  OF  SAN  LULS. 


GENERAL   PHYSICAL    ASPECT,   DESCRIPTION    OF    SOIL, 
CLIMATE,  Sec. 

The  province  of  San  Luis  is  situated  between  32°  and  34° 
30'  south  lat.,  and  67°  and  68°  30'  west  long.,  and  covers 
about  2,000  square  leagues.  On  the  north  it  joins  the 
provinces  of  Rioja  and  Cordoba,  where  the  salinas  or  salt 
marshes  of  the  River  of  Concaran  mark  its  limits ;  to  the 
north-west  its  confines  with  San  Juan  are  marked  by  the 
lagoons  of  Guanacacho  and  the  prolongation  of  the  Sierra 
of  las  Quijadas ;  to  the  west  with  that  of  Mendoza,  by 
the  Rio  Desaguadero ;  to  the  south  it  enters  the  pampas, 
stretching  away  to  the  Indian  territory ;  on  the  east  it 
joins  the  province  of  Cordoba  at  the  Sierra  de  la  Estan- 
zuela,  a  spur  of  the  great  Cordovese  chain. 

To  the  north-east  the  general  aspect  is  mountainous, 
presenting  a  series  of  lovely  valleys  stretching  away  to 
the  Sierra  of  Cordoba.  The  first  is  that  of  the  "Canada," 
to  the  north,  which  extends  between  the  points  of  the 
Sierra  de  Santa  Barbara  (connected  with  that  of  San 
Luis),  and  the  buttress  of  Chaquinchuna,  south  border 
of  the  plateau  of  Pocho  and  of  Nono ;  the  other,  the 
magnificent  valley  of  Concaran,  which  is  between  the  two 


22 

principal  ranges.  There  are  also  some  isolated  moun- 
tains towards  the  south.  The  remainder  of  the  pro- 
vince is  flat ;  the  plain  to  the  west  of  the  mountains  is 
wooded,  but  to  the  south  has  fine  pasture  lands,  which, 
by  a  series  of  undulations,  mingle  with  the  pampas. 

There  is  only  one  important  river  in  this  province, 
the  Rio  Quinto,  which  takes  its  rise  in  "  La  Corohna,"  and 
■flows  through  the  heart  of  the  Sierra,  where  there  is 
a  series  of  roaring  cascades;  diverging  to  the  east, 
then  to  the  south-east,  it  makes  a  vast  semicircle  and  is 
lost  in  the  pampas  at  34°  lat.,  and  forming  the  "  banados  " 
or  lagoons  of  the  Juncal^  thus  named  from  the  aquatic 
plants  which  grow  there.  This  river  now  forms  the 
Indian  frontier  on  the  south,  guarded  by  various  new 
forts,  estabhshed  by  Colonel  Mansilla,  under  President 
Sarmiento. 

The  other  rivers  of  the  province  are  the  Rio  de  Coulara, 
which  waters  the  valley  of  the  Concaran ;  the  stream 
of  San  Luis,  which  furnishes  the  water  necessary  for 
irrigation  and  domestic  use  of  the  town ;  and  the  streams 
NogoH,  San  Francisco,  and  Quines,  which  are  exhausted 
by  the  inhabitants.  The  lake  Bebedero,  situate  to  the 
south-west,  is  probably  the  remains  of  a  vast  interior 
sea  which  supplies  the  actual  basin  of  the  Salinas. 
This  lake  furnishes  salt  for  all  the  neighbouring  pro- 
vinces, and  supplies  some  very  good  fish  ;  after  heavy 
rains  and  freshets  it  receives  a  branch  of  the  Desaguadero, 
and  forms  some  banados,  or  pools,  towards  its  southern 
extremity.  There  has  been  a  remarkable  fall  in  its 
waters  during  the  last  20  years.  The  large  increase 
of  population  may  gradually  affect  the  quantity  of  water 
so  necessary  for  the  preservation  of  future  generations. 
The  province  of  San  Luis  wants  water,  although  it  re- 


23 

ceives  a  good  supply  of  rain,  and  cultivation  is  possible 
without  irrigation,  but  the  success  of  sowing  is  never 
certain  without  it. 

The  Sierra  of  San  Luis  occupies  all  the  north-east  Ox 
the  province.  Its  western  boundary  is  the  highest. 
"La  Punta"  as  far  as  San  Francisco,  "  Pancanta,"  and 
the  "  Monigote,"  elevate  their  naked  summits  to  an 
altitude  of  from  1,500  to  2,000  metres.  The  Tomalasta 
at  2,200  metres  is  the  highest  of  the  system.  The 
range  sinks  in  gentle  declivities  towards  the  east,  and 
terminates  towards  the  north  by  several  links,  of  which 
the  principal  encloses  the  valley  of  Santa  Barbara,  and 
which  forms  the  thoroughfare  to  the  northern  provinces. 

Near  Tomalasta  and  Sololosta  are  evidences  of  origi- 
nal volcanic  action,  but  no  crater  is  found,  and  the  chain  is 
grassy  upon  its  ridges  and  upon  its  plateau ;  it  has  also 
some  in  its  valleys.  Although  principally  of  gneiss 
and  mica  schist,  we  find  some  limestone  and  numerous 
quartzose  veins,  holding  gold,  copper,  lead  and  antimony. 
To  the  south  the  Punta  de  San  Luis,  or  rather  of  Los 
Yenados,  which  was  its  first  name,  terminates  the  range. 
Some  isolated  groups  exist  further  south,  such  as  Lince, 
Tala,  Cholanta,  and  Varela,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
lake  Bebedero.  To  the  west  are  other  granite  ridges, 
running  from  north  to  south,  the  Alto  Pencoso  giving 
rise  to  the  secondary  chains  of  Las  Palomas,  Gigante 
and  Las  Quijadas,  which  border  the  Kio  Desaguadero  and 
the  lagoons  of  Guanacacho,  and  are  lost  in  the  salines  of 
Rioja. 

The  plateau  at  the  base  of  the  hills  of  San  Luis  is 
covered  with  a  thick  bed  of  granitic  sand,  very  rich 
in  mica,  of  a  peculiar  lustre.  At  two  leagues  from 
the  foot  of  the  mountains  the  soil  is  purely  argillaceous 


24 

and  often  saline,  especially  in  the  district  known  as  the 
Canada  de  la  Travesia,  and  which  appears  to  be  the 
dry  bed  of  an  enormous  sea,  that,  coming  from  the 
north,  would  discharge  its  waters  into  Lake  Bebedero. 

The  wells  which  have  been  sunk  in  these  lands  often 
give  salt  water,  but  on  approachng  the  mountains  the 
water  is  always  sweet,  and  here  are  situate  the  principal 
estancias  or  grazing  farms.  Water  is  found  at  a  depth 
varying  from  8  to  30  metres.  The  argillaceous  earth  is 
light  and  very  fertile.  In  the  south-east  of  the  province 
the  earth  is  more  vigorous  and  less  salt.  The  borders 
of  the  Rio  Quinto  and  the  adjacent  plains  have  a  soil 
suitable  either  for  cultivation  or  pastures,  and  sweet 
water  is  found  near  the  surface. 

Earthquakes  are  sometimes  felt  in  the  province  of  San 
Luis.  In  1849  one  occurred  so  severe  as  to  injure  some 
houses  which  were  not  of  very  solid  construction ;  but 
generally  this  phenomenon  is  light,  and  the  inhabitants 
do  not  regard  it  with  fear.  The  heart  of  the  moun- 
tains shows  evidences  of  volcanic  action,  for  Toma- 
lasta,  Sololosta,  and  Intiguasi  are  trachytic,  as  are  the 
peaks  of  the  Yerba  Buena,  Agua  del  Tala,  la  Cienega, 
&c.,  in  the  Sierra  of  Cordoba. 

The  central  range  of  high  mountains  in  the  midst 
of  vast  plains  attracts  the  clouds  which  come  from 
various  parts  of  the  horizon,  and  rain  falls  in  all  seasons, 
but  principally  in  summer.  A  remarkable  phenomenon 
is  the  formation  of  storms  upon  the  Alto  Pencoso;  the 
clouds  seem  balancing  between  the  Sierra  de  San  Luis 
and  the  Andes,  are  forced  to  unite,  and  are  condensed 
upon  this  ridge,  which  is  only  200  metres  higher 
than  the  neighbouring  plain,  and  of  an  altitude  of 
6,000  above  the  level  of  the  sea;  whenever  it  rains  at 


25 

San  Luis,  it  is  generally  from  the  west,  and  upon  this 
point,  where  the  clouds  gather,  whence  they  advance 
towards  the  interior  plain  and  the  sierra.  The  pre- 
yailing  winds  are  from  the  north. 

The  winter  is  extremely  mild,  and  only  a  little  frost 
falls,  except  in  the  mountains  where  the  temperature  is 
regulated  by  the  altitude.  The  heat  in  summer  is  intense, 
although  the  air  is  often  refreshed  by  storms  and  rain. 
It  freezes  sometimes  near  the  mountain,  but  never 
over  a  great  extent  of  land.  The  autumn  and  winter 
are  magnificent;  the  purity  of  the  sky  and  the  calmness 
of  the  atmosphere  are  not  to  be  surpassed.  In  short, 
the  climate  is  delicious  and  salubrious,  intermittent 
fevers  are  unknown,  but  rheumatism  is  prevalent,  and 
is  accompanied  with  a  remarkable  debility  in  the  mus- 
cular system.  Goitre  is  sometimes  seen  in  the  depart- 
ment of  San  Francisco.  The  pneumonia  of  the  Andes 
shows  itself  now  and  then  as  an  epidemic,  but  is  not 
so  severe  as  in  the  north. 

The  natural  vegetation  is  not  remarkable,  and  is  only 
found  in  the  well  watered  districts,  such  as  the  valley  of 
Concaran  and  the  borders  of  Rio  Quinto.  The  alterna- 
tions of  long  dryness  and  short  but  heavy  rains  make 
the  arborescent  vegetation  wretched;  this  is  limited  to 
jarillas,  breas,  chanar,  piquillins,  &c.,and  these  are  pe- 
culiar to  the  interior  plain.  The  only  tree  which 
acquires  any  magnitude  is  the  white  quebracho,  and  it 
sometimes  attains  eight  metres.  Towards  the  south,  on 
the  plains  of  Rio  Quinto,  grows  the  "  calden,"  a  species 
of  caroubeir,  to  the  height  of  twelve  to  fifteen  metres? 
and  is  a  fine  and  beautiful  tree.  The  palm  of  Cordoba 
is  found  near  the  town  of  San  Francisco,  at  an  altitude 
of   800  metres.      The    southern    plams  produce     only 


26 

herbaceous  plants  ;  some  gorges  in  a  south-westerly 
direction  possess  true  trees;  among  them  the  "tala"  is 
predominant,  which,  with  the  algarrobo,  calden,  and 
the  white  quebracho,  furnish  all  the  timber  necessary 
for  the  province. 

All  the  vegetables  imported  from  Europe  succeed 
admirably;  the  poplar  is  as  vigorous  as  at  Mendoza  (of 
which  later  on),  the  orange,  pomegranate,  fig,  peach,  and 
vine  are  excellent,  and  there  has  been  recently  intro- 
duced the  almond,  pear,  apple,  and  apricot,  which  are 
perfectly  acclimatized.  It  is  the  same  with  vegetables ; 
all  succeed,  if  the  inhabitants  would  only  take  the 
trouble  to  cultivate  them. 

Wheat  yields  very  abundantly,  also  lucerne,  but 
maize  is  everywhere  most  extensively  cultivated,  and 
its  yield  is  profuse.  Although  it  rains  plentifully  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  Sierra  and  of  Alto  Pencoso,  yet  irrigation 
is  generally  practised  where  practicable,  but  agriculture 
may  possibly  succeed  without  it.  The  inhabitants  know 
that  by  irrigation  they  can  insure  the  success  of  their 
cultures,  and  very  wisely  employ  it  wherever  there  is 
water,  not  only  by  the  aid  of  canals  derived  from  the 
streams,  but  also  from  wells.  San  Luis  cultivates  only 
for  its  requirements ;  still  agriculture  is  making  progress, 
for  the  soil  and  climate  are  favourable, 

I  would  call  special  attention  to  the  viniculture  which 
is  easy  there,  and  would  give  good  results,  if  only  for 
internal  consumption. 

The  inhabitants  occupy  themselves  principally  with, 
and  bestow  their  greatest  care  upon  their  flocks ;  if  the 
plain  is  dry  and  wooded  in  the  north  and  unfit  for  pas- 
toral purposes,  those  to  the  south  ofi'er  an  unlimited 
field  for  breeding  and  rearing  cattle;  there  are  also 


27 

excellent  lands  for  this  purpose  in  the  Sierra.  On  the 
other  hand,  the  provinces  of  Mendoza  and  San  Juan  are 
essentially  agricultural,  and  breed  few  black  cattle ;  they 
therefore  buy  those  bred  in  San  Luis,  fatten  them  on 
lucerne,  and  send  them  in  favourable  seasons  to  Chili, 
where  they  realize  large  profits. 

Besides  its  important  commerce  in  cattle,  San  Luis 
exports  some  wool,  dry  hides,  goat  skins,  and  ostrich 
feathers.  Two  tanneries  in  the  capital  produce  a  fair 
amount  of  kid  and  goat  skins  and  imitation  morocco. 

The  productions  of  agriculture  are  insufficient  for 
local  consumption,  for  they  are  obliged  to  draw  supplies 
from  Mendoza  and  San  Juan,  such  as  flour,  wines,  and 
dried  fruits. 

They  manufacture  a  light  blue  woollen  cloth  for 
pantaloons  and  ponchos,  for  the  use  of  the  peasantry ; 
this  industry  was  peculiar  to  women,  but  it  is  being 
rapidly  discontinued  in  consequence  of  the  importation 
of  a  better  article  from  England, 

The  principal  route  is  the  great  road  to  Chili,  of  which 
Rosario  and  Mendoza  form  the  two  extremities  in  the 
Argentine  territory.  San  Luis  is  situated  80  leagues 
from  Mendoza,  and  160  from  Rosario,  but  these  may  be 
reduced  by  making  more  direct  roads.  It  is  90  leagues 
from  San  Juan  in  passing  to  the  north  of  the  lagoons, 
180  to  Rioja  by  Quines  and  Los  Llanos,  90  to  Cordoba 
by  Quines,  San  Pedro  de  los  Sauces  and  Nono,  and  100 
by  the  Morro  and  Rio  Cuarto :  this  latter  route  is 
available  for  carriages,  whilst  the  others  can  only  be 
made  available  by  mule.  The  Sierra  is  everywhere 
accessible  by  rude  paths,  but  only  on  mules  or  horses. 
It  is,  however,  absolutely  necessary  to  improve  the  road 
from  the   capital  to  Canada  Honda,  and  open  another 


28 

from  this  point  to  San  Jose  del  Morro  if  this  rich  dis- 
trict is  to  be  developed;  its  approachs  are  very 
difficult,  and  it  occupies  much  time  to  reach  the  mines. 
The  routes  to  the  south  are  across  a  pampa  Covered 
with  long  grass,  and  the  only  improvement  to  be  made  is 
to  sink  wells  throughout  their  course  and  produce  water 
for  travellers.  The  routes  from  the  north  of  the 
Province  are  all  accessible  to  carriages,  and  there  are 
some  farms  where  the  traveller  may  rest.  The  valley 
of  Concaran  has  few  roads  practicable  for  carriages,  but 
the  country  is  magnificent. 

The  Province  of   San  Luis  is  divided  into  eight  de- 
partments, and  these  are  subdivided  into  districts.     The 
departments  are  : — The  Capital  and  its   districts  to  the 
south  and  south-west ;  Saladillo  and  San  Jose  del  Morro, 
to  the  east ;   to  the  north-east,  Renca ;  Santa   Barbara 
and  La  Lomita,  to  the  north ;  San  Francisco  and  Nogoli, 
to  the  west.     San  Luis  is  situate  in  33°  17'  of  south  lat., 
67°  47'  west  long.  (Paris),  766  metres  above  sea  level. 
The   capital  of  the  province  is  a  little  town,  founded  in 
1597  by  Don  Martin  de  Loyola,  Governor  of  Chili,  and 
situate  at  the  south  point  of  the  Sierra,  called  "  La  Punta," 
or  the  ancient  name  "Punta  de  los  Venados  "  (point  of 
deer),  hence  the  name  of  "  Puntanos,"  given  to  the  inha- 
bitants of  this  province.   This  town  is  only  remarkable  for 
its  very  picturesque  situation,  and  having  a  fine  extensive 
prospect  over  the  basin,  or  a  semi-circle  whose  arc  may 
be  20  leagues,  which  extends   from  Lince  to  the  lake 
Bebedero  and  the  chain  of  the  Gigante,  passing  all  the 
little  isolated  links  scattered  on  the  plain.     The  peak  of 
the  Punta,  which  slopes  to  the  town  three  kilometres 
distant,  is  at  an  altitude  of  1,400  metres,  from  whose 
summit,  Avhich  is  easily  accessible,  one  may  obtain    a 


29 

view  of  the  whole  province.  The  town  of  San  Luis  is 
built  on  a  declivity  which,  although  it  appears  almost 
level,  its  inclination  towards  the  south-west  is  certainly 
very  manifest.  Lake  Bebedero  being  situated  only  eight 
leagues  distant,  the  difference  of  altitude  is  not  less  than 
400  metres.  The  stream  of  Los  Chorillos  furnishes  water 
for  its  plantations  of  poplars,  willows,  orange  trees,  vines, 
peach  trees,  &c. 

The  capital  does  not  possess  any  public  buildings  of 
importance.  Its  only  church  is  very  inferior  in  archi- 
tecture^  and  only  within  the  past  few  years  have  they 
commenced  building  substantial  houses.  The  position 
of  the  town  is,  however,  very  advantageous,  inasmuch 
as  it  is  on  the  great  high  road  of  transit  from  Chili  and 
Mendoza,  and  sooner  or  later  railway  communication 
between  Buenos  Ayres  and  the  Andine  provinces  must 
make  San  Luis  a  town  of  much  importance. 

The  Department  of  San  Jose  del  Morro  joins  the 
province  of  Cordoba  on  the  east,  and  extends  to  the 
south  of  the  Sierra  del  Morro,  a  promontory  2,000 
metres  above  the  sea,  and  slopes  gradually  down  to  the 
Rio  Quinto  on  the  west,  and  which  latter  forms  its 
boundary  towards  the  pampa.  The  chain  of  the  Morro 
connects  the  main  range  of  San  Luis  with  that  of  Cordoba 
by  the  secondary  chains  of  Rosario  and  the  Tiporque, 
which,  extending  towards  the  west,  unites  the  system  of 
the  Tomalasta,  Sololosta,  and  Intigua.  All  this  northern 
part  of  the  department  is  exclusively  pastoral ;  in  some 
valleys  of  the  district  of  Cuchato  the  land  is  cultivated 
to  some  extent.  San  Jose  del  Morro,  proper,  is  a 
village  whose  altitude  is  1,040  metres;  the  climate  is 
vigorous,  but  the  crops  sometimes  suffer  from  wind  and 
frost.      The  new  district  of  Fort  Constitucion,  or  Mer- 


30 


cedes,  occupies  a  fertile  spot  on  the  western  bank  of  tlie 
Rio  Quinto.  This  town  was  founded  in  1856,  and  has 
become  nearly  as  important  as  the  capital  itself,  owing 
to  the  fertility  of  the  surrounding  districts,  the  abun- 
dance of  water  for  irrigation,  and  consequently  rich  pas- 
tures, together  with  its  timber  and  pure  climate. 

Formerly  both  banks  of  the  Rio  Quinto  were  inhabited 
to  the  Paso  del  Lechuzo,  now  Fort  3  de  Febrero,  15 
leagues  down  stream  to  the  southward  from  Mercedes. 

There  still  exists  the  old  fort,  the  oratory,  the  large 
farm  of  Las  Pulgas,  and  several  others  of  less  impor- 
tance, but  the  repeated  attacks  of  the  Indians  in  former 
times  drove  away  the  inhabitants  who  are  now  fast  re- 
turning. Fort  Constitucion,  or  Mercedes,  is  now  a 
thriving  town,  and,  owing  to  the  excellent  measures  for 
securing  the  frontier  against  Indians,  will  not  be  again 
abandoned.  New  estancias  have  been  formed,  and  a 
large  extent  of  land  placed  under  cultivation ;  even  in 
case  of  a  serious  attack  by  the  Indians  the  population 
can  retire  into  the  citadel  with  walls  en  pise\  where  they 
mio'ht  effectually  resist  any  attack  however  formidable. 
The  savages  of  the  south  have  made  this  town  the  centre 
of  their  commercial  and  exchange  operations  with  the 
Christians,  and  this  traffic  is  now  a  source  of  considerable 
profit  to  the  province. 

Within  the  past  year  President  Sarmiento  has  suc- 
4ssfully  driven  back  the  formidable  tribes  of  Indians 
who  formerly  overran  the  country,  and  gained  to  the 
Republic  a  vast  extent  of  territory,  stretching  away  to 
the  lagoons  and  marshes  which  mark  the  extreme 
southern  limit  of  the  Rio  Quinto.  New  forts  have  been 
established,  and  military  colonies  formed,  wherein  the 
soldier  may  become  a  proprietor  after  a  certain  term  of 


31 


service  on  the  frontier,  and  secure  for  his  family  in  his 
old  age  a  sufficient  competence. 

To  the  energy  and  skill  of  Colonel  Lucia  Mansilla  is 
due  the  realization  of  this  important  scheme  of  the 
President,  and  future  generations  of  happy  settlers  will 
remember  with  gratitude  their  gallant,  kind  protector 
and  benefactor. 

MINERAL   RESOURCES,    &c. 

The  mining  industry  in  this  province  may  be  de- 
scribed, so  to  speak,  as  being  at  once  in  its  infancy 
and  old  age.  Some  gold  mines  are  so  irregularly  worked 
and  destroyed  that  they  not  only  leave  no  profit  upon 
the  actual  working,  but  are  positively  dangerous  to  the 
lives  of  those  who  are  obliged  to  labour  in  them.  On 
the  other  hand,  there  are  many  new  veins,  not  only  of 
gold,  but  also  of  silver,  copper,  and  lead  ores,  which  are 
still  either  in  superficial  workings  or  abandoned  from  the 
want  of  capital  and  perseverance  on  the  part  of  their 
former  owners.  There  is  no  special  law  in  the  province 
respecting  mining,  and  the  general  dispositions  of  the 
Mexican  "Ordenanza"  of  mines  are  generally  followed; 
nor  is  this  industry  subject  to  any  duty  or  fiscal  impost 
whatever. 

The  mining  districts  of  San  Luis  are  situate  to  the 
north  of  the  capital,  and  the  most  remote  are  about  forty 
leagues  distant  from  the  latter. 

The  first  mine,  nearest  the  capital,  which  I  found 
in  work,  is  that  of  "  Birorca,"  about  nine  leagues  to  the 
north,  and  at  an  altitude  of  3,873  feet  above  the  sea  level, 
on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Sierra  of  San  Luis.  It  was 
formerly  worked  for  copper,  and  abandoned  up  to  the 


32 

year  18 65, when  a  German,  Mr.  David  Levingston,  opened 
it  anew,  with  the  view  of  reducing  the  ore  on  the  spot. 
For  this  purpose  he  did  in  fact  construct  a  small  smelt- 
ing furnace,  and  endeavoured  to  reduce  the  ore  obtained 
from  the  mine.  But  as  this  could  not  be  done  without  the 
requisite  sulphureous  ores  to  form  a  regulus,  the  attempt 
did  not  prove  successful.  During  the  brief  period 
the  furnace  was  at  work  he  burned  about  12,800  cubic 
yards  of  wood,  and  with  this  enormous  quantity  of  fuel 
he  only  produced  12  bars  of  metallic  copper,  the  total 
weight  of  which  did  not  exceed  20  cwt. 

Convinced  of  the  futility  of  his  attempts  to  produce 
regulus,  he  endeavoured  to  obtain  sulphureous  ores 
(copper  and  iron  pyrites),  in  order  to  assist  his  smelt- 
ing operations,  and  he  also  undertook  the  construction 
of  a  new  furnace,  built  of  refractory  materials,  a  species 
of  steatite  or  soap  stone,  a  natural  product  of  the  neigh- 
bouring mountains. 

In  this  enterprise  he  is  at  present  engaged,  aud  ought 
shortly  to  have  his  new  furnace  in  active  operation. 
At  the  same  time,  he  is  working  an  old  gold  mine 
in  La  Carolina,  yielding  arsenical  iron  pyrites,  which 
to  some  extent  will  answer  the  purpose  of  sulphureous 
ores  to  form  regulus.  He  is  also  working  a  vein  of 
auriferous  copper,  recently  discovered  in  the  department 
of  Santa  Barbara,  about  thirty  leagues  from  his  furnace. 
The  ore,  a  bi-sulphide,  which  this  vein  yields  on  the 
surface,  holds  some  50  per  cent,  of  copper, — with 
an  ounce  and  six-tenths  of  fine  gold  per  ton;  but  at 
further  depth  this  class  of  metal  disappears,  and  the  vein 
degenerates  into  red  oxide,  with  silicate  of  copper  and 
iron  ;  and  at  a  depth  of  11  fathoms  in  the  vertical  shaft 
it  again  degenerates  into  an  almost  pure  oxide  of  iron. 


33 

holding  only  5 J  per  cent,  of  copper  and  three-tenths 
of  an  ounce  of  gold  per  ton. 

This  small  proportion  of  gold  is  the  more  remarkable 
and  strange,  from  the  circumstance  that  in  some  pieces 
of  ore  the  native  gold  is  found  in  little  specks  and  thin 
lamina ;  but  on  taking  a  general  sample  from  a  large 
heap  of  ore,  and  assaying  it,  it  becomes  manifest  that 
the  gold  is  not  disseminated  in  the  mass,  but  only  exists 
as  isolated  specks  in  some  stones.  Besides  this  dege- 
neration in  the  quality  of  the  ore,  the  shaft  is  choked 
with  carbonic  acid  gas,  which  prevents  miners  from 
working  in  the  lower  levels ;  as  this  would  be  fatal  to 
life,  unless  ventilation  be  provided  it  will  be  impossible 
to  follow  up  the  workings. 

I  pointed  out  the  means  of  removing  this  evil,  and 
perhaps  at  this  date  the  inconvenience  has  been  over- 
come. Other  works  have  been  commenced  further  to 
the  north  on  the  same  vein,  in  order  to  effect  communi- 
cation with  the  shaft,  and  so  afford  the  necessary  venti- 
lation. 

Up  to  the  date  of  my  visit  to  this  mine,  called  "  La 
Angelita,"  the  ferruginous  ore  had  been  carefully 
put  aside  on  the  supposition  that  it  was  copper,  the  red 
oxide  of  the  latter  being  so  very  similar  to  that  of  iron  that 
the  diiFerence  can  only  be  distinguished  by  the  aid  of  prac- 
tical experience  or  scientific  knowledge.  I  fear  that  this 
vein,  which  promised  so  much  at  the  surface,  will  eventu- 
ally become  worthless,  degenerating  into  auriferous  quartz 
holding  very  little  gold.  Nor  has  the  "  Birorca  "  mine, 
above  mentioned,  in  its  actual  condition,  any  com- 
mercial value,  since  the  ore  which  it  produced — about 
100  tons — yielded  only  8  per  cent,  of  copper  on  the  ave- 
rage, and  consequently  Mr.  Levingston  abandoned  it  at 
my  instance  and  advice. 


r 


34 

Having  seen  all  these  drawbacks,  I  am  unable  to  ex- 
press a  favourable  opinion  of  this  enterprise,  although 
there  is  every  desirable  facility  for  the  cheap  smelting 
or  reduction  of  the  ore,  i.e.^  fuel,  refractory  material, 
means  of  transport,  and  provisions  in  abundance ;  but, 
without  the  principal  sine  qua  non — the  ore  itself — no 
good  or  profitable  result  is  possible.  Nevertheless, 
according  to  statements  made  to  me  by  old  miners  in 
that  district,  there  are  many  veins  of  copper,  prolific 
in  yield  and  of  good  ley  in  the  adjacent  Sierra,  but  which 
remain  unworked  from  the  want  of  capital  and  enter- 
prise. I  was  shown  many  stones,  rich  in  copper  and 
silver — the  latter  semi-bar  silver — which  I  was  assured 
had  been  found  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  but,  despite 
repeated  eff'orts  and  requests  on  my  part,  I  could  never 
succeed  in  prevailing  upon  them  to  take  me  to  see  the 
veins. 

There  is  extreme  apathy  among  the  wealthy  inha- 
bitants of  the  province  in  reference  to  minmg  industry, 
and  nearly  all  of  them  regard  it  with  contempt  and  in- 
credulity. 

Mr.  Levingston's  furnace  is  situated  about  two 
leagues  to  the  east  of  the  "  Birorca"  mine,  in  the  centre 
of  a  populated  district,  possessing  j^lenty  of  wood,  prin- 
cipally algaroba  and  a  resinous  species  of  lignum  vitae 
(retamo),  which  is  strong  and  burns  well.  A  con- 
siderable stream  of  water  passes  near  the  furnace,  irri- 
gating the  lands  and  enclosed  farms,  the  chief  of  these 
being  El  Trapiche,  formerly  the  site  of  an  establishment 
for  the  amalgamation  of  gold  ores  from  La  Carolina. 
This  site  is  now  occupied  by  a  mill,  which  serves  to 
grind  the  cereals  of  the  neighbouring  people,  who  pro- 
duce grain  regularly  and  in  abundance,  as  the  whole  of 
the  slope  of  the  Sierra,  from  San  Luis  up  to  La  Carolina, 


35 

a  distance  of  twenty  leagues,  is  well  populated  and  fairly 
cultivated.  The  farmers  utilize  the  numerous  rivulets 
and  streams  which  descend  by  the  ravines  to  irrigate 
the  lands  under  wheat,  maize,  potatoes,  &c.  Much  land 
still  remains,  which  might  be  cultivated  with  beneficial 
results,  but  the  scarcity  of  labour,  as  also  no  doubt 
of  capital,  is  the  principal  cause  of  its  non-culti- 
vation. 

The  Rio  Quinto — here  called  the  Rio  Grande — passes 
at  a  short  distance  from  El  Trapiche,  following  its  course 
between  high  banks  towards  the  south-east,  and  is  a 
somewhat  wide  and  rapid  stream.  It  has  its  source  at 
La  Carolina,  and  its  sandy  bed  exhibits  for  many  leagues 
further  down  striking  indications  of  gold. 

The  road  up  to  the  smelting  works  of  Levingston  is 
suitable  for  carriage  traffic,  but,  beyond  that  point, 
towards  the  mines  of  La  Carolina,  many  deviations  would 
be  necessary,  following  the  course  of  the  valleys,  and  it 
would  entail  an  outlay  of  £3,000  to  £4,000  to  render  it 
properly  transitable.  Still,  carts,  laden  with  machinery, 
as  I  have  been  assured,  have  recently  passed  even  as 
far  as  La  Carolina  itself. 

The  men  employed  in  the  mine  of  Birorca,  at  the 
time  of  my  visit,  were  four  in  number.  The  capital 
invested  in  it,  I  was  told,  was  from  £1,300  to 
£1,600. 

The  following  workmen  were  employed  at  the  smelt- 
ing furnace  :  A  manager,  a  book-keeper,  two  foreman 
smelters,  a  blacksmith,  a  carpenter,  and  six  labourers. 
In  addition,  there  were  23  muleteers,  with  120  mules,  47 
wood-cutters,  and  two  carters.  The  daily  consumption 
of  fuel  in  working  the  furnace  was  96  cubic  yards,  the 
cost  of  which  is  about  |d  per  cubic  yard.     Mr.  Leving- 


^ 


36 

ston,  up  to  that  time,  had  invested  between  furnaces 
and  mines  about  £5,000,  but  I  was  not  able  to  obtain 
exact  information  on  this  head. 

The  construction  of  the  furnace  is  expensive  in  con- 
sequence of  the  mode  of  preparing  the  refractor}^ 
material,  the  want  of  economy  in  this  department  being 
most  striking.  The  first  reveberatory  furnace  built 
there  was  constructed  of  English  bricks,  but  now  he  is 
using  soap-stone,  which  is  obtained,  as  I  have  already 
stated,  from  the  Sierra  of  San  Luis,  at  a  place  called 
Pancanta,  eight  leagues  to  the  west-north-west.  Two 
men  quarry  eighty  mule  loads  per  month.  Each  load 
consists  of  two  masses  of  stone,  from  each  of  which 
about  25  ordinary  sized  bricks  are  cut,  and  the  cost  of 
freight  is  about  3s.  4d.  per  load.  Immediately  they 
reach  the  furnace,  they  are  cut  with  hand-saws,  forming 
bricks  of  nine  inches  by  four  and  a  half  by  two  and  a 
half,  and  each  man  can  cut  ten  per  day.  In  this 
way  labour  is  wasted,  and  much  time  and  money  would 
be  economised  if  the  stones  were  cut  and  faced  in  large 
pieces  at  the  quarry  and,  used  thus  in  the  construction 
of  the  furnace,  would  serve  the  same  object,  and  avoid 
the  expense  of  sawing,  which  is  important,  while  com- 
pleting the  work  in  half  the  time. 

I  will  now  pass  on  to  describe  the  districts  of  La 
Carolina,  celebrated  and  renowned  for  ages  for  their 
great  auriferous  wealth. 

LA  CANADA  HONDA. 
FoUowmo-  almost  the  same  route  northward  from  the 

o 

capital,  and  passing  through  El  Trapiche  and  Le\ing- 
ston's  works,  the  Sierra  is  penetrated  by  tortuous 
roads,  ascending  and  descending  numerous  ridges,  and 


37 

frequently  crossing  streams  of  limpid  water,  and  reachmg 
Canada  Honda,  distant  about  lOJ  leagues  from  the  fur- 
nace and  20  from  the  city  of  San  Luis.  Here,  at  the 
height  of  4,126  feet  above  the  sea  level,  the  first  gold 
placer  washings  are  to  be  found.  The  temperature  is 
cold  in  winter,  but  agreeable  and  healthy  in  the  summer. 
The  Canada  (a  valley)  runs  north-west  to  south-east. 
It  is  over  a  league  in  length,  by  175  yards  in  average 
breadth,  and  'enclosed  on  three  sides  by  lofty  mountains, 
opening  towards  the  south-east,  whence  issue  the  waters 
of  a  stream  which  rises  at  the  north-western  extremity. 

At  the  entrance  of  the  Caiiada  are  situated  the  placer 
washings  of  Don  Pepe  Gonzalez  Otero,  an  active  Chilian 
miner,  recently  established  there,  and  working  in  associa- 
tion with  Don  Antonio  del  Canto,  the  owner  of  copper 
smelting  works  in  Chin,  and  in  theParamillo  of  Mendoza. 

Formerly  the  placer  miners  of  Canada  Honda  were 
unable  to  work  at  any  great  depth,  from  the  invasion  of 
water,  which  sprung  very  copiously  precisely  at  the 
part  most  productive  in  gold, — a  depth  of  eight  to  ten 
yards.  In  consequence  of  this  obstacle,  the  previous 
workers  had  been  forced  to  abandon  their  labours  at  the 
very  moment  the  fruits  of  their  toil  appeared  within  their 
eager  reach ;  but  one  of  them,  Don  Mauricio  Morales,  a 
Chilian,  who  had  resided  there  for  sixteen  years,  suc- 
ceeded at  length  in  partially  overcoming  the  difficulty. 
He  sought  a  lower  level  at  the  foot  of  the  Caiiada,  and 
from  that  point  excavated  a  canal,  pushing  his  way 
through  the  rocks  until  he  effected  communication  with 
the  auriferous  deposits  situated  higher  up.  He  covered 
over  this  canal  with  flags,  leaving  a  conduit  beneath,  by 
means  of  which  the  workings  in  the  auriferous  beds  above 
are  to  a  great  extent  drained  of  their  water. 


38 

This  canal  has  always  to  be  carried  forward  to  the 
foot  of  the  placer  washings,  which  are  thus  kept  work- 
able ;  but  I  am  afraid  that  rocks  will  be  met  with 
higher  up  the  Canada,  whose  removal,  m  order  to  let  the 
water  pass,  may  entail  considerable  labour  and  expense. 

During  my  visit  two  placer  washings  were  bemg 
carried  on ;  one  by  Gonzalez  Otero,  and  the  other  by 
Morales.  The  system  of  extractmg  gold  is  extremely 
simple.  It  consists  of  "  Long  Toms"  with  riffles,  fifty 
feet  in  length,  fifteen  inches  wide,  and  eight  inches  in 
depth.  The  "  Long  Toms "  are  fixed  at  an  angle  of 
ten  degrees,  and  the  current  is  therefore  strong  and 
rapid.     The  modus  operandi  is  as  folloAvs  : — 

The  auriferous  bed  lies  at  24  to  30  feet  from  the 
surface,  and  the  superincumbent  strata  are  : — 

1.  Alluvium,  about  4  feet  in  thickness,  but  varying  to 
6  and  8  feet ; 

2.  Beds  of  yellow  marl,  mixed  with  alluvium,  from 
8  to  12  feet; 

3.  A  bed  of  black  sandy  clay,  4  to  5  feet; 

4.  Yellow  auriferous  sand,  with  particles  of  the 
primary  rocks,  which  form  the  surrounding  mountains, 
3  feet; 

5.  The  primary  rocks,  consisting  of  mica-schist,  gneiss, 
and  granite,  with  felspar  and  talc. 

A  stream  of  clear  water  runs  on  the  surface,  and  is 
utilised  for  two  purposes.  First,  it  is  led  by  small 
channels  in  different  directions,  and  made  to  pass  over 
terraces,  each  lower  than  the  other.  About  a  yard  in 
depth  of  this  upper  stratum  is  loosened  and  broken  down 
by  labourers  into  the  water,  by  which  it  is  carried  away, 
and  this  is  continued  until  the  overlaymg  strata  are  got 
rid  of  and  the  auriferous  deposit  eventually  reached. 


39 

A  single  labourer  can,  in  the  course  of  a  day,  remove 
about  320  cubic  yards,  and  he  is  paid  at  the  rate  of  £2 
10s.  ])er  month,  without  maintenance.  Secondly,  when 
water  is  abundant,  another  canal  carries  it  to  the  "  Long 
Tom  "  or  sluice,  placed  as  above  described,  and  sus- 
pended in  the  air  at  the  height  of  about  ten  feet  above 
the  auriferous  bed.  Two  men  with  long-handled  shovels 
are  stationed  below,  and  heave  the  yellow  earth  into 
the  sluice  above  their  heads,  where  it  is  carried  over  the 
riffles  by  the  water  with  considerable  force.  All  the 
gold  (I  was  told)  is  caught  by  the  riffles,  from  its  great 
weight,  while  the  earth  and  sand  are  discharged  at  the 
foot  of  the  sluice  and  removed  to  one  side  with  shovels 
by  two  men  employed  for  that  purpose.  As  the 
auriferous  earth  consists  of  stones  of  various  sizes,  with 
fine  sand,  &c.,  a  strong  current  of  water  is  needed  to 
carry  it  through  the  sluice,  but  part  of  the  gold  is 
doubtless  also  carried  away,  as  fine  particles  are  seldom 
found  in  the  riffles,  this  consisting  of  small  nuggets  and 
grains. 

Two  men,  so  engaged,  can  pass  twenty-five  tons 
of  auriferous  sand  through  the  sluice  in  a  day,  and  on 
the  average  extract  four  ounces  of  gold.  From  the 
approximate  calculations  I  was  enabled  to  make  durmg 
the  brief  period  of  my  stay,  I  do  not  think  that  the  ley 
or  yield  generally  exceeds  four  dwts.  of  fine  gold  per 
ton ;  but  there  are  parts  extremely  rich,  from  which  two 
men  have  extracted  as  much  as  a  pound  of  gold  in  one 
day. 

Seiior  Morales  informed  me  that,  during  the  six  years 
he  had  worked  there,  on  a  very  restricted  scale  from 
want  of  capital,  he  had  extracted  about  1,600  ounces 
of  gold  at  a  cost  of  about  £2,166  sterling. 


40 

Taking  the  extension  of  the  Canada  yet  unworked 
at  8,700  yards  in  length,  with  an  average  breadth  of 
25  yards  in  the  part  where  the  gold  is  found;  and  the 
auriferous  bed  at  a  yard  in  average  thickness,  we  have 
217,500  cubic  yards,  which,  calculating  from  its  specific 
gravity  (about  30  cwt.  per  cubic  yard)  would  yield  a 
total  of  326,250  tons,  and  this,  at  four  dwts.  per  ton, 
is  equivalent  to  50,976  ounces.  On  account  of  its  low 
percentage  of  fine  gold  (0.720  milesimos),  this  can  only 
be  estimated  at  £2  14s.  2d.  per  ounce,  and  would, 
therefore,  produce  a  total  value  of  about  £138,000. 

The  workmen  employed  in  the  Canada  Honda,  in 
these  placer  washings,  were  12  by  Gonzalez  Otero,  and 
five  by  Morales;  but  there  were  about  28  more  who 
are  occasionally  occupied. 

Beef  costs  about  |d.  per  lb. ;  flour,  20s.  per  cwt. ; 
maize,  10s.  per  fanega  (300  lbs.);  potatoes,  |d.  per 
pound.  There  is  absolutely  no  fire  wood,  and  it  has  to 
be  brought  from  El  Trapiche,  ten  and  a  half  leagues 
distant,  or  from  San  Francisco,  on  the  western  slope  of 
the  Sierra  Alta,  nine  leagues  off ;  it  costs  Is.  8d.  per 
cubic  yard.  The  water  of  the  stream  is  insignificant  in 
the  winter,  and  is  sometimes  frozen  up ;  in  the  summer 
it  is  more  abundant  from  copious  rains,  and  large 
reservoirs  might  be  formed  with  facility,  to  be  utilized 
for  placer  washing  at  seasons  when  the  ordinary  supply 
would  be  insufficient.  There  is  good  pasturage  in  the 
neighbourhood,  and  potatoes,  maize,  &c.,  are  also  pro- 
duced on  the  spot,  but  in  small  quantities. 

In  the  mountains  which  enclose  the  Cafiada  Honda 
there  are  numerous  auriferous  quartz  vems,  superficially 
scratched  by  the  old  miners,  but  none  of  them  are  being 
worked,  with  the  exception' of  one  which  Seiior  Gonzalez 


41 

Otero  was  exploring  with  indifferent  results.  The  water 
invades  the  workings  at  a  short  depth,  and  the  ores 
being  in  some  cases  pyriteous  (arsenical  iron  pyrites) 
the  gold  cannot  be  fully  nor  easily  extracted.  These 
lodes  were  rich  on  the  surface,  according  to  tradition, 
and  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  such  was  the  fact,  for 
the  auriferous  deposits  in  the  Canada  below  can  have 
had  no  other  source. 

LA   CAROLINA. 

From  the  placer  washings  of  Canada  Honda  the  road 
takes  a  westerly  direction,  passing  through  the  chain  of 
hills  which  divide  La  Carolina  from  the  Canada,  at  a 
height  of  4,903  feet  above  the  sea  level.  At  a  distance 
of  about  a  league  is  an  edge-runner  or  Chilian  mill, 
recently  erected  by  Messrs.  Antonio  Schmidt  &  Co.  It 
is  fairly  constructed  and  arranged  m  conformity  with 
the  requirements  of  the  spot.  About  a  ton  and  a  quarter 
of  ore  is  ground  in  twenty-four  hours,  after  which  it  is 
passed  through  a  sieve  with  2,500  holes  to  the  square 
inch.  This  is  not  fine  enough,  however,  to  separate  all  the 
gold,  which  in  the  ore  is  united  with  iron  pyrites.  The 
ground  ore  is  carried  through  the  sieve  by  a  current  of 
water  mto  a  sluice,  with  riffles  at  the  bottom,  similar  in 
construction  to  the  "  Long  Tom "  used  by  the  placer 
washers.  This  is  about  fifty  feet  in  length,  and  the 
tailings  are  discharged  into  a  vat,  whence  they  are  re- 
moved at  convenient  intervals. 

At  the  end  of  every  week  (according  to  the  ley  of  the 
ore)  the  riffles  are  removed  from  the  sluice,  and  nearly 
all  the  gold  present  is  found  in  the  first  four  yards  from 
the  mill.  The  gold  is  always  more  or  less  mixed  with 
iron  pyrites,  and  this  mass  is  thrown  back  into  the  trough 


42 

or  base  of  the  mill,  with  mercury  to  extract  the  gold  by 
amalgamation.  In  a  few  hours  the  gold  unites  with  the 
mercury,  in  which  state  it  is  taken  out  and  carefully 
washed  in  wooden  dishes.  It  is  subsequently  strained 
through  strong  canvas  cloths,  and  afterwards  distilled  in 
an  iron  retort ;  the  mercuiy  passes  off  and  is  condensed 
in  cold  water,  whilst  the  remaining  gold  i  generally  foimd 
of  the  ley  of  .835  milesimos,  or  20.04  carats  of  fine 
gold. 

The  ores  which  were  being  reduced  at  the  time  of  my 
visit  were  extracted  from  the  principal  lode  of  La  Caro- 
lina, called  "  Piniera,"  which  was  not  then  in  "  bene- 
ficio,"  or  productive  ore.  Nevertheless  the  veinstuff  ob- 
tained from  the  greater  part  of  the  lode,  though  in  this 
condition,  yields  1*66  of  an  ounce  per  ton,  of  which  nearly 
half  an  ounce  is  left  in  the  tailings  thrown  out  from  the 
sluice.  The  gold,  being  combined  with  iron  pyrites, 
and  very  finely  disseminated  throughout  the  mass,  the 
whole  cannot  be  extracted  by  the  system  at  present  in 
practice  there.  In  order  to  successfully  reduce  this  ore, 
the  grinding  should  be  carried  to  the  highest  possible 
perfection,  and  so  as  to  pass  through  a  sieve  of  at  least 
8,000  to  10,000  holes  to  the  square  inch;  whereas,  as 
already  stated,  it  is  not  reduced  by  the  actual  mode  of 
o-rindine:  to  a  greater  fineness  than  that  of  2,500  holes. 

All  these  ores  also  hold  an  appreciable  quantity  of 
silver,  varying  from  14'8  to  37  ounces  per  ton. 

At  a  distance  of  about  a  league  north  of  the  reducing 
works  are  many  old  abandoned  mines,  situated  on  the  prin- 
cipal vein  of  La  Carohna,  which  rmis  from  north  to  south, 
and  is  traceable  for  a  distance  of  nearly  half  a  league,  having 
an  average  width  of  about  a  yard.  This  lode  is  very 
irregularly  worked  on  the  surface,  and  probably  to  its 


43 

lowest  depths ;  but  these  workings  being  choked  up  with 
debris^  I  was  unable  to  enter  or  examine  them.  The 
deej^est  shaft  on  the  vein  is  about  55  fathoms  and 
is  also  choked  up  with  earth.  The  workings  rehabilitated 
by  Messrs.  Schmidt  &  Co.  consisted  of  an  adit,  driven 
so  as  to  cut  the  lode  at  a  right  angle  at  a  good  depth, 
and  at  the  same  time  to  drain  the  old  workings,  which 
were  found  in  every  case  to  be  inundated.  This  was 
accomplished,  and  the  lode  was  cut,  in  an  unpro- 
ductive state,  a  yard  in  width,  but  yielding  only  the 
percentage  of  gold  previously  stated.  I  was  assured  by 
the  owners  that  the  yield  of  gold  from  the  pyriteous  ores 
was  from  5  to  7  ounces  per  ton;  but  not  having  seen 
this  class  of  orestufF,  nor  the  vein  in  "beneficio,"  I 
cannot  personally  confirm  this  assertion. 

North  of  the  adit  of  Messrs.  Schmidt  &  Co.  is  an  old 
and  very  important  mine,  which  formerly  belonged  to  a 
Sefior  Piniero.  A  well  driven  adit,  on  the  level  of  the 
bottom  of  the  ravine  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  was 
commenced,  and  is  about  120  yards  in  length.  The 
vein,  in  my  opinion,  should  be  cut  at  about  40  yards 
further  on,  and  at  a  depth  of  50  fathoms  from  the  surface. 
The  roof  of  this  adit  has  partly  fallen  in,  and  was  aban- 
doned in  consequence  of  the  death  of  the  owner  many 
years  ago  at  Buenos  Ayres.  I  believe  that  this  enter- 
prise, if  carried  on,  would  yield  good  results.  The  mine 
in  the  first  place  would  have  to  be  drained,  when  a  rich 
portion  of  the  lode  would  in  all  probability  be  laid  bare 
under  certain  parts,  which  on  the  surface  present  the 
appearance  of  having  been  formerly  very  productive. 
This,  however,  would  entail  the  expenditure  of  a  large 
sum,  owing  to  the  scarcity  of  labour  and  fuel,  and  other 
drawbacks  inherent  to  the  district. 


44 

This  mine  is  at  an  elevation  of  4,243  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea. 

At  present  the  only  mme  in  actual  work  on  the  vein 
of  Piniero  is  that  of  Messrs.  Schmidt  &  Co.,  and  in  it 
only  ten  men  were  employed.  The  capital  invested  in 
this  enterprise  by  these  people  only  amounted  to  about 
£800. 

Towards  the  north-east  from  the  village  of  La  Caro- 
lina is  another  mine,  on  a  different  lode,  running  from 
east  to  west,  and  which  is  about  three-quarters  of  a  yard 
in  width.  The  veinstuff  consists  of  arsenical  iron 
pyrites,  mixed  with  galena  and  blende.  This  mine, 
called  "  Mercedes,"  belongs  to  Mr.  Levingston,  and  is 
that  to  which  I  have  previously  referred  as  being 
worked  for  sulphureous  flux  for  his  smelting  operations. 
The  vein  is  irregularly  and  badly  worked.  At  present 
the  ores  are  raised  by  means  of  a  vertical  shaft,  about 
ten  fathoms  deep,  in  water,  and  exceedingly  dangerous 
from  the  unsafe  state  of  its  walls.  There  were  about 
18  tons  of  ore  on  surface  dressed,  of  an  average  ley  for 
gold  of  flve-sixths  of  an  ounce  per  ton.  Six  men  were 
employed  in  this  mine,  and  the  capital  invested  is  in- 
cluded in  the  total  of  £5,000  expended  by  Mr.  Levings- 
ton, as  noted  in  a  preceding  page. 

In  addition  to  these  fixed  works  on  the  veins,  three 
men  and  about  twenty  women  are  engaged  in  erratic 
and  superficial  operations  in  various  parts  of  the  Cerro 
of  La  Carolina.  These  also  make  a  living  by  washing 
the  sand  and  earth  in  the  ravine,  and  on  the  margin  of 
the  stream,  from  which  they  extract  a  fair  quantity  of 
gold.  In  the  little  village  of  La  Carolina  there  are  17 
houses,  with  50  inhabitants,  who,  properly  speaking, 
constitute   the   whole  population.      At  Cerro  Blanco, 


45 

two  leagues  to  the  east,  are  a  few  small  huts  and  about 
20  inhabitants,  occupied  in  washing  operations,  but  here 
with  indifferent  success. 

The  gold  produce  of  La  Carolina,  including  that  of 
Canada  Honda,  from  fixed  and  erratic  operations,  is 
about  160  ounces  per  month,  the  value  of  which  may  be 
calculated  at  about  £500. 

The  fi-eoloo^ical  formation  of  the  district  about  La 
Carolina  principally  consists  of  mica-schist,  with  gneiss, 
syenite,  talcose  and  felspathic  rocks,  and  consequently 
most  favourable  for  auriferous  deposits. 

In  Santa  Barbara,  a  district  further  to  the  north-east, 
are  several  veins  of  copper  and  galena,  not  now  worked, 
but  which  might  be  of  importance  if  properly  explored. 

On  the  western  slope  of  the  Sierra  of  San  Luis,  at  San 
Francisco,  there  are  some  abandoned  works  on  a 
copper  vein,  which,  having  been  exhausted  some  years 
ago,  was  abandoned,  and  is  now  commercially 
worthless. 

The  roads  in  this  province,  whether  between  the 
capital  and  the  mines,  or  from  one  mine  to  the  other, 
are  simply  mule  tracks.  The  only  exception  is  a  short 
cart  road  made  by  Sefior  Levingston  between  his  fur- 
nace and  the  Birorca  mine,  a  distance  of  about  two  and 
a-half  leagues.  The  general  lie  of  country  on  the 
plains  is  very  suitable  for  the  construction  of  cheap 
roads,  but  amongst  the  mountains,  and  to  reach  La 
Carolina  and  Santa  Barbara,  from  San  Luis  or  El 
Morro,  it  would  require  an  expenditure  of  £5,000  to 
£6,000  to  make  a  fairly  transitable  carriage  road. 

From  a  commercial  point  of  view,  1  think  the  best 
route  for  such  a  road  would  be  between  San  Jose  del 
Morro  and   Canada  Honda,  with   a  branch  from  the 


46 

Cerro  del  Rosario  towards  the  north-east  to  reach  Santa 
Barbara.  It  would  thus  place  the  mining  dis- 
tricts in  more  immediate  contact  with  the  great  centres 
of  business,  with  the  projected  railway  to  Rio  Cuarto, 
and,  finally,  with  the  Capital  of  the  Republic  itself.  By 
this  route  the  necessity  of  making  bridges  across  the 
Rio  Quinto  and  several  other  considerable  streams 
would  also  be  avoided.  The  distance  from  El  Morro  to 
the  Canada  Honda  is  not  more  than  twenty-four  leagues. 
The  census  taken  in  the  Republic  during  the  past  year, 
1869,  gives  the  population  of  the  Province  of  San  Luis 
as  follows:  City,  3,893  ;  country,  49,375.;  total,  53,268, 
of  which  foreigners  form  a  very  small  proportion. 


47 


PROVINCE  OF  MENDOZA. 


GENERAL   PHYSICAL    ASPECT,   DESCRIPTION    OF    SOIL, 
CLIMATE,  &c.; 

The  Province  of  Mendoza  is  situated  to  the  south  of 
that  of  San  Juan,  and  between  the  territory  of  San  Luis 
and  the  Andes,  of  which  the  main  range  separates 
it  from  Chili.  It  extends  between  32°  20'  and  36°  south 
lat.,  and  68°  30'  and  72°  west  long.  (Paris),  embracing 
an  area  of  nearly  6,000  square  leagues.  Its  limits  to 
the  west  are  the  main  chain  of  the  Andes,  dividing  the 
Argentine  Republic  with  Chili ;  to  the  north  some  little 
cordons  crossing  the  Andes  at  Yalguaras  and  the  lagoons 
of  Guanacache  on  the  plains ;  to  the  east,  the  Rio 
Desaguadero  and  Rio  Salado,  the  continuation  of  the 
Latuel  or  Chadi  Leubu ;  to  the  south,  its  inhabited  limits 
do  not  extend  beyond  the  Rio  Diamante,  but  have  been 
pushed  to  the  other  side  of  the  Latuel,  and  even  as  far  as 
Cerro  de  Payen.  The  Indians  of  Aucas  and  Pehuenches, 
who  inhabit  these  cantons,  have  hitherto  prevented  the 
Mendocinos  from  settlino;  there,  and  the  southern  frontier 
limit  is  yet  the  Fort  of  San  Rafael,  near  Diamante,  be- 
tween 35°  and  36°  lat.,  although  it  is  nommally  at  Rio 
Grande,  or  the  "  Colorado." 


48 

The  Province  of  Mendoza  is  to  the  north  and  to  the 
eastward  a  vast  plain  sablo-argileuse,  saline,  and  in 
many  places,  similar  to  San  Juan,  covered  with  a  stunted 
vegetation.  Nothing  can  be  more  arid  than  that  part 
between  the  Rivers  Tunuyan  and  Desaguadero,  but 
irrigation  produces  a  fair  vegetation,  not,  however,  so 
strong  as  towards  the  base  of  the  Andes.  To  the  south 
of  the  Tunuyan  the  country  is  equally  arid  up  to  the 
36°,  but  on  approaching  the  Andes  the  climate  changes; 
it  becomes  more  moist,  rains  refresh  the  earth  durino- 
summer,  numerous  streams  begin  to  flow,  and  their 
waters  fertilise  the  soil  to  a  wonderful  extent,  producing 
grass  and  trees,  but  these  latter  of  a  stunted  growth. 
The  first  valleys  of  the  Andes  present  a  variety  of  soil ; 
some  widely  open  towards  the  east  partake  of  the  parched 
character  of  the  plains;  others  higher,  narrower,  and 
from  the  mists,  rains,  and  snows,  possess  fine  pastures. 

The  boundary  line  with  Chili  is  formed  by  a  series  of 
gigantic  snow-capped  mountains,  from  Aconcagua  (23,400 
feet)  in  the  north,  to  Chinal  in  the  south,  including 
the  enormous  Tupungato  and  numerous  volcanoes,  some 
active,  some  extmct.  In  the  extreme  south  the  spurs,  or 
minor  ranges  of  the  central  chain,  are  detached  towards  the 
south-east  in  cordons  less  elevated,  enclosing  great  valleys 
mhabited  by  the  Auracanian  Indians,  who  communicate 
freely  with  those  on  this  side  by  numerous  passes 
practicable  during  part  of  the  year. 

The  absolute  necessity  of  water  for  irrigation  and 
agricultural  purposes  gives  to  the  rivers  of  Mendoza  a 
peculiar  importance,  for,  without  being  numerous,  they 
are  plentifully  supplied  with  water  during  the  greater 
part  of  the  year,  which,  if  well  directed,  would  enlarge 
to   a  great  extent  the  agricultural  districts,  especially 


49 

towards  the  south.  In  the  physical  description  of  the 
Province  of  San  Juan,  it  is  shown  how  the  lagoons  of 
Guanacache  are  formed  by  the  rivers  of  wSan  Juan  and  of 
Mendoza,  which  flow  into  the  lao-oon  of  the  Rosario  in 
opposite  directions.  These  waters  then  stand  in  a  series 
of  pools,  whose  level  rises  or  falls  according  to  the 
quantity  of  snow  which  melts  in  the  Cordillera.  These 
lagoons  are  designated  respectively  Portezuelo,  Sauce, 
Rosario,  Tres  Cruces,  Bebida  Grande,  Silverio,  &c.,  and 
communicate  with  the  adjacent  ones  by  a  sort  of  gorge 
through  argillaceous  earth  sufficiently  firm  to  permit  of 
passing  by  a  ford  except  in  heavy  floods.  Their  borders 
are  flat,  covered  with  reeds  and  aquatic  plants,  and  easily 
overflow;  hence  most  of  the  lands  around  them  are 
excellent  for  agriculture,  because  of  their  humidity. 
The  waters  are  very  salt  in  the  dry  season,  but  much  less 
so  during  the  floods  of  the  San  Juan  and  Mendoza  rivers. 
At  a  little  distance  from  the  lagoons,  the  wells  sunk  to 
five  or  six  metres  yield  sweet  water.  A  careful  survey 
of  these  lagoons  would  perhaps  suggest  the  possibility 
of  making  a  navigable  canal.  Their  water  is  discharged 
by  the  Rio  Desaguadero,  which  is  lost  partly  in  the  Lake 
Bebedero  and  partly  in  the  marshes  to  the  south  of  the 
former. 

The  Rio  de  Mendoza  flows  out  of  the  chain  of  the  Pa- 
ramillo,  diverges  towards  the  north  by  the  point  of  the 
little  Sierra  de  Lulunta,  and  runs  into  the  laofoon 
Rosario,  which  receives  also  the  Rio  de  San  Juan;  in 
this  manner  the  two  rivers,  the  one  rising  at  the  base 
of  Tupungato,  and  the  other  at  the  foot  of  Aconcagua, 
describe  a  vast  curve,  the  one  to  the  north,  the  other 
to  the  south,  and  eventually  mingle  their  waters  in  the 
same  reservoir.     It  furnishes  water  for  large  tracts  of 

G 


50 

land  irrigated  in  the  capital  and  surrounding  country, 
the  declivity  of  the  earth  permitting  the  infiltrations  to 
accumulate   in    a   great    swamp,     called    "  Vermejo," 
whence  arises,  as  in  other  provinces,  a  natural  canal — 
the  Tunumaya — which  discharges  opposite  the  Cochagual 
into  the  lagoon  of  Portezuelo.     It  is  probable  that  art 
could  make  these  channels   navigable,  and  thus  unite 
the  two  towns  of  San  Juan  and  Mendoza  by  an  unin- 
terrupted water  communication,  but   I  question  very 
much  its  commercial  results.     The  canalisation  of  the  la- 
goons, and  that  of  the  Desaguadero  up  to  the  lake  which 
receives  it,  may  be   yet  possible,  and  then  the  three 
provinces  of  Cuyo  would  be  united  by  an  interior  navi- 
gation of  150  leagues.     There  would  be  some  difiiculties 
in  that  part  which  separates  the  lakes  Bebedero  and 
Curra-Lauquen  (already  combined  by  the  continuation 
of  the  Desaguadero,  and  enlarged  by  the  Diamante  and 
the  Latuel);  but  whence  to  the    Colorado  there  is  a 
level  plain,   sometimes  inundated,  and   from  thence  by 
canal  communication  with  the  Rio  Negro,  in  the  south, 
navigable  at  all  times. 

Certainly,  in  the  present  state  of  affairs,  I  should 
not  propose  so  great  a  work,  which,  perhaps,  could  not 
be  attempted  unless  the  population  of  the  provinces 
of  Cuyo  was  increased  tenfold,  but  at  present  rest 
satisfied  with  indicating  its  possibility  in  order  that  its 
future  result  may  be  anticipated,  if  adopted,  by  public 
opinion,  and  that  the  particular  canalisation,  necessitated 
b}^  irrigation,  may  be  managed  in  such  a  manner  as  not 
to  divert  too  much  the  natural  course  of  the  waters. 

The  rivers  to  the  south  of  the  Diamante  are  com- 
paratively unknown,  for  the  inhabited  region  of  Mendoza 
ceases  at  this  river ;  nearly  all  beyond  is  occupied  by 


51 

the  Indians  Pehuenches  and  Aucas,  who  do  not  care 
to  give  up  their  lands,  or  if  they  yield  them  by  treaties, 
and  for  some  stuffs  or  for  liquors,  incessantly  violate 
their  bargains.  This  part  of  the  country  is  perfectly 
watered  by  the  Latuel  and  its  tributaries,  the  Chacay 
and  Malargue,  whose  waters  form  the  lagoons  of  Chacay 
and  Yancanelo ;  further  south  the  numerous  affluents  of 
the  Colorado  fertilise  some  beautiful  valleys.  The  great 
future  of  the  province  of  Mendoza  may  be  said  to  rest 
here,  whenever  these  lands  can  be  secured  from  the 
Indians  and  are  in  the  possession  of  its  inhabitants. 

The  great  course  of  waters  caused  by  the  overflow 
of  Tunuyan  and  of  the  Bebedero,  and  the  waters  of  the 
Diamante,  goes  from  north  to  south,  crossing  a  flat  coun- 
try, which  a  short  distance  from  the  river  is  a  "trave- 
sia,"  or  desert,  called  Desaguadero  and  Nuevo-Salado. 
The  Latuel,  under  the  name  of  Chadi-Leubu,  is  again 
united  one  degree  of  latitude  above  the  lake  La 
Amarga  or  Curra-Lauquen ;  the  lagoon  Fureco  is  con- 
nected with  it.  In  the  month  of  December  all  these 
are,  in  part,  inundated,  when  the  melted  snow  has  been 
considerable  in  the  Andes,  and  the  rains  abundant  in 
the  lower  valleys;  for  starting  from  36°  of  latitude,  and 
going  towards  the  south,  the  climate  is  modified  and 
rains  commence  in  the  mountains.  The  neighbouring 
regions  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lake  Nahuelhuapi,  which 
crosses  the  Rio  Negro,  is  humid  and  well  watered. 

The  Andes  and  their  various  chains  occupy  all  the 
western  part  of  the  Province  of  Mendoza.  On  the 
other  side  of  the  Rio  Diamante  the  lower  ranges  are 
detached  from  the  central  chain  towards  the  south-east 
and  some  isolated  cones  rise  here  and  there  on  the 
Pampa.     Immediately  to  the  west  of  the  town  of  Men- 


52 

doza  extends  the  cliain  of  the  Paramillo,  which  com- 
mences at  the  river  of  this  name,  and  is  lost  in  the 
Province  of  San  Juan  in  mingling  with  the  western 
buttresses  of  the  Tontal.  Behind  the  Paramillo, 
of  which  the  height  is  3,000  metres,  extends  the  long 
and  broad  valley  of  Uspallata,  of  a  mean  altitude  of 
1,800  metres;  then  comes  the  first  buttress  of  the 
great  Cordillera,  upon  which  are  the  snowy  summits 
of  Igiesia,  Plata,  Juncal,  San  Francisco,  the  Cruz  de 
Piedra,  San  Lorenzo,  Los  Mineros,  del  Planchon, 
&c.,  the  volcanoes  San  Jose,  of  Maipii,  of  Tinguiririca ; 
finally,  in  the  midst  of  these  giants,  not  quite  so  ele- 
vated as  the  Aconcagua,  stands  their  king,  the  snowy 
cone  of  the  Tupungato,  whose  immaculate  pyramid 
of  snow  appears  from  the  plains  of  Mendoza  to  stand 
erect  in  the  azure  of  the  heavens.  It  is  visible  for  a 
distance  of  150  miles  in  clear  weather. 

The  valley,  or  rather  the  gorge  of  the  Rio  de  Men- 
doza, winds  from  east  to  west  across  the  densest  part  of 
the  central  chain  on  to  the  south  reverse  of  the  Aconcagua, 
whence  rises  the  Rio  de  las  Yacas,  opposite  to  which, 
at  the  Punta,  a  torrent  discharges  from  the  Tupungato. 
High  valleys  extend  between  the  furrows  of  the  moun- 
tains which  constitute  the  centre  of  this  prodigious  mass. 
In  fact,  in  starting  from  Paso  de  los  Patos,  it  does  not  pre- 
sent the  appearance  of  high  plateaux,  but  only  of  cordons, 
running  from  north  to  south,  with  a  slight  inclination  to 
the  east.  To  the  south  of  the  Rio  de  Mendoza,  some  of 
these  cordons,  especially  that  of  Lulunta,  stretch  away 
into  the  great  plains.  In  a  region  yet  more  southerly, 
other  ranges,  detached  from  the  Cordillera,  form  the 
chain  of  Cerros  Nevado  and  Payen.  Still  farther  are 
the  mountains  giving  birth  to  the  sources  of  the  Colo- 


53 

rcido,  of  Neiiquen,  of  Catapuliche,  and  other  afSuents  of 
the  Rio  Negro.  The  Sierra  of  Ranca  Mahuida,  adjacent 
to  the  Rio  Colorado,  between  37°  and  38°  lat.,  is  a  spur 
of  the  latter. 

Little  is  known  of  the  mountains  comprised  in  the 
Indian  territory.  The  Nevado  appears  to  have  an  alti- 
tude of  4,500  metres,  and  forms  a  mass  nearly  isolated 
in  the  plain  on  the  other  side  of  the  lagoons  of  Yancanelo. 
It  is  thought  to  be  volcanic,  from  the  nature  of  the  lavas 
accumulated  on  its  sides,  from  the  smoke  which  often 
crowns  it,  and  the  detonations  which  are  sometimes 
heard,  and  which  resound  as  far  as  the  Fort  of  San 
Rafael. 

The  chain  of  Payen,  visited  by  miners  at  various  times, 
is  connected  with  the  Nevado  by  a  series  of  hills  which 
enclose  some  beautiful  valleys,  at  the  openings  of  which 
towards  the  west  commences  the  pampas,  where  flows 
the  Chadi-Leubu,  formed  from  the  Latuel  and  the  Desa- 
guadero.  It  separates  the  waters  of  the  Rio  Malargue 
from  those  of  the  Rio  Grande,  the  principal  branch  of 
the  Colorado,  and  the  frontier  line  of  the  province, 
nearly  under  37°  lat.  Payen  is  much  less  elevated  than 
the  Nevado ;  its  sides  are  well  watered,  with  many  parts 
sufficiently  fertile  to  produce  food  for  those  miners  who 
may  one  day  explore  its  mineral  wealth. 

With  respect  to  the  Andes,  there  exist  a  great 
number  of  defiles,  which  are  passable  in  the  favourable 
seasons  (generally  from  November  to  May) ;  such  as  those 
of  La  Cumbre,  Deheza,  Portillo,  Cruz  de  Piedra,  Peteroa 
Saso,  Planchon,  CerroFlorido,  &c.  The  latter  are  especially 
frequented  by  the  Indians,  and  are  not  very  elevated. 

The  plain  of  Mendoza  is  very  uniform.  Its  surface  is 
nearly  quite  level,  the  only  undulations  are  "medanos," 


54 

or  sand  banks  (argillaceous),  extremely  light,  and  which 
are  drifted  by  the  wind  in  all  directions ;  some  saline 
plants,  and  some  thorny  shrubs  grow  there.  In  many 
places  the  soil  is  charged  with  salt  and  sulphate  of  soda, 
which  give  to  the  waters  of  the  Desaguadero,  the  Salado, 
the  lagoons  of  Guanacache,  Yancanelo,  Fureco,  and  the 
Amarga,  their  brackish  and  unpalatable  flavour.  The 
greater  part  of  this  land,  as  also  that  of  the  interior 
Argentine  plain,  has  been  evidently  covered  by  the  sea, 
which  has  disappeared  by  the  gradual  elevation  of  the 
continent,  or  by  a  slow  evaporation. 

A  number  of  marine  fossils  have  been  found  in  the 
south  on  this  plain  and  on  the  slopes  of  the  Andes. 
The  salt  districts  are  limited  to  a  line  traced  by  the  Desa- 
guadero, Alto  Pencoso,  Bebedero,  its  banados,  and  the 
shallows  which  continue  from  the  southern  point  of  the 
lake  to  that  of  the  Amarga  or  Curra-Lauquen. 

Under  this  argilo-sableux  soil,  resembling  ashes,  in  a 
number  of  places  on  nearing  the  mountains,  is  found  an 
undefined  stratum  of  boulders,  rolled  evidently  from  the 
Andes,  but  which  centuries  have  covered  with  a  thick 
deposit  of  earth.  This  soil  is  prodigiously  fertile  when 
irrigated,  and  the  excess  of  saline  matter  becomes  washed 
out  by  the  constant  stream  of  running  water  passing 
over  its  surface. 

The  ranges  of  the  Andes  are  composed  of  all  forma- 
tions. The  principal  chain  is  of  black  porphyry,  but 
its  buttresses  are  of  sand  stone,  granite,  limestone, 
and  quartz.  The  chain  of  the  Paramillo,  which  is  im- 
mediately behind  Mendoza,  contains  marble  of  various 
colours,  which  is  found  as  far  as  the  pass  of  Planchon, 
gypsum,  oolite,  jaspar,  rock  crystal,  and  bituminous 
shales,  &c.  The  natural  pastures  in  the  mountains  are 
excellent  for  cattle. 


55 

The  climate  of  Mendoza  may  be  divided  into  two 
regions,  that  to  the  north  of  the  35^,  and  that  to  the 
south. 

The  region  of  the  north  has  the  same  climate  as  the 
province  of  San  Juan,  i.e.,  it  scarcely  ever  rains ;  some- 
times a  storm  breaks  over  it  in  the  summer  months,  but 
this  phenomenon  is  rare.  To  the  south  of  35°,  on  the 
contrary,  the  rains  commence  in  the  spring  and  autumn, 
and  often  even  in  the  summer;  as  we  approach  the 
Cordillera  the  rains  are  more  frequent.  This  explains 
the  source  of  the  numerous  streams  which  descend  from 
the  Andes,  and  the  lovely  vegetation  found  in  this 
region. 

The  town  of  Mendoza  and  its  environs  have  a  mean 
temperature  of  59*^  Fahr.,  if  we  judge  of  it  by  its  vege- 
tation and  altitude,  which  approaches  800  metres.  It 
freezes  a  little  in  winter ;  the  summer  is  extremely  hot, 
the  more  so  as  there  is  little  wind,  and  the  storms  are 
confined  to  the  Cordillera. 

The  whiter  is  very  dry ;  the  evajDoration  is  less  in  this 
season,  consequently  water  abounds  in  the  Cienega 
de  Vermejo,  which  extends  to  the  faubourgs  of  the 
Capital.  The  floods  or  freshets  m  the  rivers  coming 
from  the  Andes  take  place  only  in  the  summer,  towards 
the  end  of  November,  at  which  time  the  snows  melt 
rapidly.  Two  months  later  the  lagoons  of  Guanacache 
overflow  m  their  turn,  discharging  their  surplus  waters 
by  the  Desaguadero.     The  floods  cease  in  April  and  May. 

The  vegetation  of  Mendoza  resembles  that  of  San  Juan, 
but  the  orano;e  and  date  do  not  mature  so  well.  All  the 
fruit  trees  of  temperate  Europe  grow  and  fructify  per- 
fectly. 

The  natural  vegetation,  as  far  as  Rio  Latuel,  is  confined 


56 

to  stunted  brushwood  and  herbage,  often  saline,  of  the 
i3lain  of  the  ulterior, — such  as  retamo,  chaiiar,  the  jarilla, 
jume,  algarrobo,  rabougri,  &c.  To  the  north  of  this 
(Latuel),  and  in  the  humid  valleys  of  the  Andes,  the 
plants  become  more  vigorous,  and  several  of  the  arbo- 
rescent species  of  Chili  are  seen. 

The  province  is  almost  devoid  of  wood  for  construction, 
the  trees  just  named  being  only  suitable  for  fuel,  but  are 
sometimes  used  in  the  construction  of  their  simple 
cottages  (ranchos). 

The  poplar,  introduced  in  1810  by  a  Spaniard,  Don 
Juan  Cobos,  still  holds  its  place  as  the  best  timber  in  the 
province,  and  though  of  poor  quality,  has  rendered  im- 
mense service  to  the  country.  It  grows  with  extraor- 
dinary rapidity,  so  that  trees  of  forty  years  reach  an 
enormous  size.  The  elm  grows  equally  well,  but  its 
cultivation  has  only  just  commenced.  The  walnut  tree 
has  been  introduced  from  the  Chilian  Provinces,  but  is 
cultivated  only  for  its  fruit ;  it  could  be,  however,  pro- 
pagated with  advantage  for  timber. 

The  cultivation  of  cereals  occupies  the  most  important 
place  in  the  products  of  the  province,  and  nearly  on  a 
par  with  it  is  lucerne  for  fattening  cattle  for  the  Chilian 
market.  Wheat  yields  an  average  of  thirty-five  to  one. 
The  judicious  distribution  of  water  would  make  the  pro- 
duction of  lucerne  inexhaustible.  Maize  is  cultivated  in 
large  quantities.  All  the  vegetables  commonly  grown 
in  Europe  are  cultivated  with  success,  as  also  the  fruit 
trees ;  but  at  present  the  inhabitants  are  more  anxious 
for  quantity  and  there  is  ample  room  for  improvement 
in  quality.  The  vine  yields  considerably,  and  lately  the 
manufacture  of  wme  is  not  only  greatly  extended,  but 
much   improved.      The  rearing  of  the  mulberry  tree  is 


57 

neglected;  it  was  introduced  in  1835  by  a  Spaniard, 
Don  Juan  Godoy,  and  promised  good  results,  but  was 
abandoned  in  consequence  of  an  epidemic  amongst  the 
insects.  The  total  lands  under  cultivation  in  1860  was 
estimated  at  150,000  acres,  but  the  most  recent  statistics 
from  reliable  sources  give  the  present  extent  of  land 
under  cultivation  and  irrigation  at  from  400,000  to 
480,000  acres.  This  includes  about  10,000  acres  of  vine- 
yards, where  more  than  40  distinct  classes  of  grapes  are 
cultivated.  These  produce,  on  an  average,  about  2,400 
bottles,  or  four  Spanish  pipes  of  wine  per  acre.  The 
greater  part  of  this  wine  consists  of  what  is  termed 
there  "Carlon,"  or  red  wine,  resembling  very  strong 
claret  or  Burgundy,  and  sells  on  the  spot  for  3d.  per 
bottle,  or  by  wholesale  at  Is.  per  gallon.  White  wine, 
or  a  species  of  Sauterne,  forms  about  a  third  part  of  the 
annual  crop,  but  is  not  much  consumed  as  a  beverage, 
being  utilized  for  the  manufacture  of  brandy,  or  aguar- 
diente; this  latter  is  sold  on  the  spot  for  Is.  per  bottle, 
but  by  wholesale  at  about  3s.  6d.  per  gallon. 

Thus,  of  wine  alone  we  have,  according  to  the  fore- 
going statistics,  a  total  annual  produce  of  24  millions  of 
bottles,  or  40,000  Spanish  pipes, — and  this,  at  3d.  per 
bottle,  would  yield  a  total  value  of  £300,000.  Now, 
when  we  consider  that  this  might  be  increased  to  a 
very  large  extent,  and  the  quality  materially  improved 
by  a  careful  manipulation  in  its  production  and  subsequent 
treatment,  and,  with  the  advantages  of  a  cheap  and  ex- 
peditious mode  of  transport,  we  must  confess  that  the 
Province  of  Mendoza  possesses  within  itself  the  materials 
for  a  vast  industry  and  commercial  prosperity. 

The  actual  production  of  wheat  is  very  large,  and  at 
least  from  12,000  to  16,000  acres  are  sown  every  year, 


58 

yielding,  on  an  average,  33  cwts.  of  first  class  flour  per 
acre,  or  a  total  of  24,000  tons. 

To  manufacture  this  into  flour  there  are  10  first-class 
mills  in  the  province,  worked  by  water  power,  capable  of 
grinding  from  5  to  10  tons  of  flour  daily ;  and,  in  addition, 
there  are  from  40  to  50  smaller  mills  distributed  through- 
out the  province. 

Wheat,  in  harvest  time,  costs  generally  from  4s.  to 
5s.,  and  first  flour  from  8s.  to  12s.  the  cwt.  in  sacks. 
The  great  cost  of  transport  to  the  lower  provinces  pre- 
cludes the  possibility  of  exportation  on  any  considerable 
scale.  The  cost  of  tilling,  sowing,  reaping,  and  thrashing 
an  acre  of  Avheat  m  Mendoza  averages  about  £1  5s.,  and 
the  produce,  as  already  shown,  is  worth  about  £12  to 
£16. 

It   is  calculated  (without   any  fixed  certainty)  that 

about  20  per  cent,  of  the  cultivated  land  is  sown  under 

wheat,  indian-corn,  potatoes,  and  green  crops  generally, 

and  the  remainder  (exclusive  of  vineyards)  under  lucerne 

I  or  alfalfa. 

/  All  the  fields  and  farms  at  Mendoza  are  secured 
either  by  mud  walls  or  live  fences,  the  latter  consisting 
of  closely  planted  rows  of  poplar  trees,  acacias,  willow, 
tamarind,  and  others,  but  the  poplar  is  most  abundant, 
and  is  the  only  timber  for  construction  and  carpentery 
in  the  province. 

The  value  of  enclosed  and  cultivated  land  may  be  set 
down  at  nominally  £6  per  acre,  freehold ;  I  say  nomi- 
nally, because  it  is  most  difficult  to  find  a  purchaser,  or 
realise  it,  owing  to  the  great  distance  from  the  coast, 
or  great  centres  of  commerce,  and  the  cost  of  transport 
on  produce. 

The  production  of  honey  has  of  late  years  assumed 


59 


vast  dimensions.  Only  ten  years  ago  one  hive  was  intro- 
duced by  a  foreigner,  and  I  am  credibly  informed  that 
the  number  now  existing  in  the  province  passes  20,000. 
Their  procreation  is  very  rapid  and  successful,  and  the 
quantity  of  wax  produced  is  very  large.  The  honey  is 
mostly  converted  into  a  fine  rich  flavoured  spirit,  and 
thus  either  consumed  or  exported.  There  are  some  400 
hives  in  one  garden  alone,  the  property  of  an  industrious, 
thriving  Frenchman,  Don  Miguel  Pouget,  who  has  intro- 
duced and  cultivated,  with  great  success,  many  new 
fruit  trees  and  plants.  His  wines  are  the  best  in  the 
province,  but  unfortunately,  the  extent  of  his  vineyard  is 
small.  Some  white  wine  produced  by  him  was  exhibited  at 
Paris,  in  1867,  and  obtained  the  silver  medal.  The  few 
bottles  left  were  purchased  by  Baron  Kothschild  at  25 
francs  each. 

The  most  important  feature  in  Mendoza,  and  its  most 
productive  industry,  is  that  of  fattening  up  cattle  in  the 
luxuriant  clover  fields,  and  driving  them  over  the  Andes 
to  supply  the  Chilian  market,  almost  wholly  dependent 
upon  the  Argentme  Republic  for  its  supply  of  meat. 

An  ox  or  bullock,  purchased  in  San  Luis  or  Cordoba, 
and  fattened  up  in  Mendoza,  will  cost  on  an  average, 
when  ready  for  market,  from  £3  5s.  to  £3  15s.,  and  in 
this  state  (yielduig  about  2  J  cwts.  of  fat)  sell  in  Chili  for 
from  £7  to  £7  10s.  The  number  exported  to  Chili  from 
October,  1868,  to  May,  1869,  passed  60,000  head  of  all 
classes,  oxen,  bullocks,  and  cows ;  and  I  am  informed 
that  the  present  year's  exports  will  far  exceed  these 
figures. 

The  Province  of  Mendoza,  like  that  of  San  Juan,  in 
consequence  of  the  position  of  its  rivers  and  the  absolute 
necessity  for  irrigation,  has  its  population  congregated 


60 

only  in  select  districts.  The  town  and  its  environs, 
within  a  radius  of  four  leagues  in  one  direction  and  six  in 
another,  concentrates  more  than  half  the  inhabitants.  It 
has,  therefore,  two  departments,  viz.,  the  town  and  its  de- 
pendencies on  the  one  part,  and  the  country,  more  distant, 
on  the  other.  Exception  must  be  made  for  San  Vicente 
and  Lujan,  which  are  a  sort  of  continuation  of  the  town. 
Before  1854  the  province  was  divided  into  five  parishes — 
the  Capital,  San  Vicente,  Lujan,  the  valley  of  Uco, 
San  Martin,  and  the  lagoons.  The  actual  administrative 
division  comprises  12  departments,  viz.,  the  Capital  and 
its  four  sections  or  country  departments,  San  Vicente, 
Lujan,  San  Martin,  the  lagoons.  La  Paz,  San  Carlos, 
and  San  Rafael. 

The  town  of  Mendoza  and  capital  of  the  province,  was 
destroyed  by  an  earthquake  in  1861.  Its  destruction 
was  so  complete  that  the  Government  hesitated  to  re- 
establish its  old  site,  but  wished  to  transfer  it  to  Las 
Tortugas,  situated  three  leagues  south-east  from  its 
actual  centre.  However,  the  inhabitants  refused  to 
abandon  the  ruins  of  their  city ;  they  were  the  owners  of 
the  soil,  and  besides,  the  bricks,  timber,  and  debris  of  all 
sorts,  would  aid  them  to  rebuild  it ;  and,  what  was  of  great 
importance,  the  old  canals  were  made,  and  with  them 
they  enjoyed  their  rights  to  the  water  for  iiTigation. 
They  followed  instinctively  the  example  of  many  towns, 
both  in  the  old  and  new  hemispheres,  who  have  always 
rebuilt  from  the  ruins,  and  besides  a  new  place  might 
also  be  subject  to  a  similar  calamity.  Mendoza,  then, 
is  established  almost  on  its  old  site,  but  the  streets  are 
broader  and  the  houses  lighter,  being  constructed  prin 
cipally  of  wooden  frame-work,  filled  in  with  adobes^  or 
sun-dried  bricks*     The  proceeds  of  the    subscriptions 


61 

collected  in  America  and  in  Europe  were  first  applied  to 
relieve  the  pressing  necessities  of  the  population,  and 
then  for  establishments  of  public  utility,  such  as  hos- 
pitals and  schools. 

The  houses  were  built  very  elegantly  in  1836,  but 
were  destroyed  by  the  calamity,  notwithstanding  their 
solidity,  as  also  the  "  Pasaje  de  Comercio,"  a  kind  of 
bazaar,  and  an  active  centre  for  transactions  in  cattle. 
Here  commenced  the  fire  which  immediately  followed 
the  earthquake.  The  new  city  is  principally  built  along 
the  Alameda^  a  large  and  beautiful  promenade  of  a 
kilometre  long,  ornamented  with  a  quadruple  row  of 
elms  and  poplars,  watered  by  a  double  canal  of  running 
water.  The  houses  which  formerly  bordered  it  were 
destroyed,  but  the  trees  suffered  little.  It  is  now  the 
most  populous  and  the  most  lively  quarter  of  Mendoza. 
The  principal  square  is  to  the  south-west  of  the  Ala- 
meda, and  there  are  built  the  Government  offices, 
barracks,  cathedral,  and  prison,  forming  two  sides  of 
the  quadrangle. 

The  town  is  traversed  by  a  great  canal,  "  Sanjon,"  and 
also  the  canal  Guaimallen,  the  name  of  the  Indian  prince 
who  occupied  the  canton  at  the  time  of  the  conquest. 
This  canal  is  derived  from  the  Rio  de  Mendoza,  not  far 
from  Lujan,  and  is  thought  to  be  the  work  of  the 
Indians;  but  it  appears  rather  a  naturally  detached 
branch  of  the  river,  and  feeds  a  number  of  canals  which 
water  the  town  and  its  environs.  Water  is  laid 
on  to  all  the  streets,  most  of  which  are  well  paved,  and 
every  facility  afforded  for  cleanliness  and  comfort,  if 
the  inhabitants  would  only  attend  a  little  more  to 
hygiene,  and  follow  the  oft-repeated,  wise  counsels  of 
their  able  and  learned  physician,  Dr.  Edmund  Day,  M.D., 


62 

an  English  practitioner  of  many  years'  residence  amongst 
them.     The  town  has  five  plazas  or  public  squares. 

Owing  to  the  intense  heat  of  the  country  towards 
the  north  few  wild  animals  exist.     The  guanaco  dwells 
in    the    mountains,   and  the  couguar  abounds  on  their 
slopes.      It  is,  however,   quite  different  in  the    south. 
The  jaguar  is  found  in  the  woody  plains  by  the  River 
Diamante  and  the  Latuel ;  the  ostrich  and  various  species 
of  deer  are  very  abundant    near   these   rivers;   game 
of   all  sorts  abound.      The  little  animal  called  pichi- 
ciego  {chalmydophorus  truncatus)   is  exclusively  found 
in  the  region  of  the  lagoons ;  the  aguara  and  the  otter 
in    the    marshes   of   Vermejo,    near     Tunumaya,   and 
the  lagoons,  and  in  the  valleys  of  the  southern  rivers 
and  their  marshes.     The  streams  and  rivers  about  Men- 
doza  have  plenty  of  fish,  but  it  is  only  in  the  lagoons 
of  Guanacache  that  the  fine  trouts  so  much  prized  in 
the  capital  are  found.    The  fishermen  carry  them  a  dis- 
tance of  30  leagues  to  market,  which  is  accomplished 
at  a  gallop  in  one  night. 

Mendoza  is  favoured  by  a  numerous  immigration  from 
Chili,  consisting  of  the  poor  hard-working  agricultui-al 
classes,  who,  attracted  by  the  facility  for  acquii'ing  good 
land  and  its  cheapness,  come  over  and  settle  definitely, 
often  realising  a  moderate  fortune,  and  always  making 
an  excellent  living  and  mdependence.  This  is  mainly 
owing  to  their  superior  industrial  and  thrifty  habits, 
energy,  and  hard  work,  accompanied  by  a  thorough 
knowledge  of  agricultui'e  as  practised  by  ii-rigation. 

Mendoza  boasts  of  a  fine  college,  supported  by  the 
National  or  Federal  Government,  and  m  which  are  taught 
mathematics,  physics,  chemistry,  classics,  and  foreign 
languages. 


63 


MINERAL  RESOURCES,  &c. 
Mining  in  this  province  is  at  present  limited  to  a  single 
district,  that  of  the  Paramillo  de  Uspallata,  about  22 
leagues  distant  W.N.W.  from  the  city.  Numerous 
lodes  and  mines  exist  in  the  southern  part  of  the  pro- 
vince— -some  of  them  of  importance — but  they  are  not 
beino-  worked.  The  nearest  of  these  is  in  the  Cerro  de 
Cacheuta,  at  a  distance  of  about  10  leagues  S.S.W.  from 
the  city.  It  only  consists  of  a  small  lode  from  which  a 
few  tons  of  ore  have  been  taken  out,  but  of  a  character 
exceedingly  interesting  from  a  scientific  point  of  view ; 
the  commercial  results,  however,  were  not  very  satis- 
factory. The  ore  is  a  remarkable  combination  of  silver, 
lead,  copper,  iron,  and  cobalt.  Its  composition  is  entirely 
new  in  mineralogy,  and  was  unknown  until  the  year 
1858,  when  I  first  saw  it  in  Chili,  directing  thereto 
the  attention  of  Senor  Domeyko,  Rector  of  the  University 
of  Santiago,  whose  analysis  confirmed  that  of  Professor 
D  .Forbes,  F.R.S.,  &c.,  and  my  own  previously  expressed 
opinions.  This  analysis  was  effected  at  the  cost  of  much  time 
and  labour,  and,  according  to  Senor  Domeyko,  the  com- 
position of  the  mineral  was  as  follows  : — 

ANALYSIS    OF    FIVE    SPECIMENS. 


Lead  

Silver 

Copper   

Iron    

Cobalt    

Selenium    

Ferrugineous  matrix 
Carbonate  of  Lead . . , 


I. 


43-50% 

21. GO  ,, 

i.8o  „ 

2.20  „ 

0.70  „ 

30.00  „ 


6.80% 
20.85  „ 
12.91    „ 

3-10  „ 

1.26  „ 

22.40  ,, 


37.10% 
9.80  „ 

10.20  „ 
1.20  „ 
2.80  „ 

30.20  „ 
6.50  „ 


21.25 

3.73 
13.80 

3.35 
1.97 


15.20 


59.80 


0.80  „ 

23.60  „ 

3.50  „ 
10.90  „ 


This  ore  is  not  abundant,  the  lode  being  very  narrow, 
and  at  a  depth  of  8  fathoms  it  almost  entirely  disappears. 


64 

Owing  to  the  rainy  season  and  consequent  rising  of 
the  Rio  de  Mendoza,  and  the  danger  of  crossing  it,  I  was 
unable  to  visit  this  mine,  or  those  situated  further  south. 
With  this  vein  I  was,  however,  previously  acquainted. 

Another  mine — "  La  Salamanca  " — 30  leagues  to  the 
south,  has  lately  been  worked,  but  is"  now  suspended. 
It  is  an  important  vein,  yielding  yellow  and  purple 
copper  pyrites,  and  was  worked  by  a  Chilian  company 
for  some  years,  who  abandoned  it  when  the  yield  of 
good  copper  ore  began  to  fall  off  (35  to  40  per  cent.). 

In  the  year  1867,  Messrs.  Canto  and  Villanueva 
acquired  the  mine,  and  worked  it  for  the  poor  yellow 
pyrites,  which  yielded  only  10  to  12  per  cent,  copper 
when  well  dressed,  and  generally  only  6  to  8  per  cent. ; 
but,  being  in  need  of  fluxes  to  form  regulus  in  their 
smelting  operations  at  the  Paramillo,  they  were  obliged 
to  extract  this  ore  (of  wliich  I  will  speak  hereafter),  and 
notwithstanding  the  high  charge  for  transport  to  the  Para- 
millo (150  miles)  of  £4  13s.  per  ton,  these  gentlemen 
make  a  profit  by  the  transaction.  The  vein  is  extremely 
abundant,  being  upAvards  of  six  feet  in  width,  and  the 
ore  is  raised  to  the  surface  at  a  cost  of  not  more  than 
13s.  4d.  per  ton. 

To  the  south  of  the  Fort  of  San  Rafael  are  numerous 
mines  of  copper  and  silver,  but  from  their  present  inac- 
cessible situation  among  the  savages  of  the  pampa  they 
are  not  worked. 

Still  further  south,  on  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Colorado, 
are  the  celebrated  deposits  of  auriferous  copper  in  the 
Cerro  de  Payen.*  The  Abbe  Molina,  in  his  valuable  and 
authentic  work,  first  volume,  page  96,  speaks  of  them  in 
the  following  terms  : — 

*  "Payen"  in  the  Indian  language  means  Copper. 


65 

"  The  most  famous  copper  mine  yet  discovered  in  the 
kingdom  of  Chili  (at  that  time  the  Provinces  of  Cuyo' 
belonged  to  Chili),  was  that  of  Payen,  which  at  present' 
is  not  worked  because  the  Puelches,  who  possess  that 
district,  will  not  permit  strangers  to  explore  or  reside  in 
their  territory ;  but  when  excavations  were  first  made, 
masses  of  pure  copper  were  extracted  of  from  2  J  to  5 
tons  each  in  weight.  Historians  of  that  period  record 
that  this  copper  was  of  so  excellent  a  colour  that  it  ap- 
peared to  be  a  true  counterfeit  of  gold,  since  it  more 
resembled  gold  than  copper,  while,  to  extract  it,  all  that 
was  necessary  was  to  kindle  a  fire  beneath  the  masses  of 
stones  containing  this  precious  metal." 

M.  Frezier,  a  French  writer,  also  refers  to  these  mines, 
in  the  account  of  his  travels,  volume  first,  page  145, 
where  he  states  that  "he  saio^  in  Concepcion  in  Chili,  a 
mass  of  copper  which  weighed  40  cwts.,  and  which  had 
been  carried  thither  by  the  Spaniards,  and  that  while  he 
was  there  it  was  smelted,  and  six  cannons  of  small  calibre 
were  cast  from  it." 

Having  this  data  before  us,  it  would  be  important  to 
organize  an  expedition  for  the  exploration  of  those  dis- 
tricts, but  this  could  only  be  carried  out  with  a  large 
armed  force  on  account  of  the  Indians.  Those  resrions 
are  little  known,  and  it  is  impossible  to  rely  on  the 
existing  maps  and  plans,  as  up  to  the  present  the  country 
in  question  has  not  been  explored  by  any  competent 
geographer. 

PAEAMILLO   DE   USPALLATA. 

In  this  region  great  and  general  enthusiasm  now  exists 
for  mining,  resulting  as  much  from  the  discoveries  of 
mineral  riches  that  have  been  made  in  depth,  as  from  the 

I 


66 

success  which  has  attended  the  smelting  operations  in 
argentiferous  copper  regulus,  carried  out  by  Senor  Don 
Antonio  del  Canto,  in  partnership  with  Serior  Don 
Eustaquio  Yillanueva,  who  also  work  two  important 
mines  by  means  of  adits  driven  from  the  bottom  of  the 
valleys,  and  cutting  the  lodes  at  great  depth.  The  mines 
are  named  "  El  Rosario "  and  "San  Rumaldo."  Both 
are  very  ancient,  and  perhaps  date  from  the  first  mineral 
discoveries  at  Uspallata,  which,  according  to  the  archives 
preserved  in  Chili,  is  stated  to  have  occurred  in  the  year 
1638.  They  were  not  worked,  however,  until  1762, 
more  than  a  century  later. 

The  old  workings  are  nearly  all  useless,  the  lodes  are 
broken  down  and  gutted  on  the  surface  and  to  a  verti- 
cal depth  of  60  yards.  The  old  miners  generally  were 
only  acquainted  with  what  is  termed  amongst  Spaniards 
"warm  metals"  {metales  calidos)^  or  those  easily  reduced 
or  beneficiated  directly  by  means  of  mercury,  forming 
with  it  an  amalgam  of  silver,  which,  after  straining,  is 
pressed  and  heated  in  a  cast-iron  retort  until  the  mercury 
is  driven  off,  and  there  remains  a  metallic  mass  of  almost 
pure  silver.  In  nearly  every  mine  this  class  of  ore 
disappeared  at  a  depth  of  40  to  50  yards,  and  was  replaced 
by  "cold  metal"  {metal  f no) ^  not  amalgamable;  hence 
these  workings  were  abandoned,  the  mmers  returning  on 
the  bridges  and  pillars  above,  removed  all  the  "  warm 
metals  "  that  remained,  eventually  abandoning  the  mines 
altoo-ether.  Other  mmers  followed,  who  worked  the 
"cold"  ores,  or  those  reduced  by  smelting, until  these 
likewise  were  exhausted,  the  veins  still  continuing,  but 
in  a  mass  of  fine  porphyric  stone,  which  of  course  put 
an  end  to  profitable  working.  Some,  more  adventurous 
than  others,  carried  on  the  workings  at  a  loss,  and  pene- 


67 

trating  this  obstinate  layer,  reached  again  the  "  cold  " 
plumbiferous  ores,  producing  a  fair  percentage  of  silver. 
Immediately  below  this  second  bunch  of  ore  they  came 
upon  another  stratum  of  the  same  stone,  which  cut  off 
the  veins  as  above,  and  being  of  greater  thickness  than  the 
first,  completely  disheartened  the  miners;  they  all, 
without  exception,  abandoned  the  mines  as  exhausted, 
taking  away  the  small  quantity  of  ore  that  rewarded 
their  final  efforts.  So  things  stood,  until  a  few  years 
since,  when  some  adventurers  again  undertook  to  prose- 
cute the  work,  following  in  the  track  of  their  predecessors. 
Selecting  the  same  place,  they  cut  through  the  unpro- 
ductive stratum,  and  came  upon  the  same  "cold  metal," 
but  mixed  with  blende  or  sulphide  of  zinc,  a  bad  combi- 
nation for  smelting  in  the  description  of  mud  furnaces 
used  commonly  by  the  natives. 

These  being  disheartened,  there  remained  hardly  any 
miners  in  Mencloza  of  sufficient  spirit  to  resume  afresh 
the  workings  and  to  risk  a  few  thousands  in  testing  the 
veins  at  a.  greater  depth.  About  the  year  1865,  I 
visited  this  mineral  district  for  the  first  time,  and  the 
lodes  appeared  to  me  so  firm,  massive,  and  well  formed, 
as  to  inspire  me  with  great  confidence  in  the  ultimate 
yield,  and  induced  me  to  commence  operations  there. 

At  the  bottom  of  the  lowest  valley,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
mine  "  Rosario,"  I  began  driving  an  adit  level  with  the 
double  object  of  cutting  the  vein  at  a  much  lower  point 
than  had  been  reached  before,  and  of  draining  the  old 
workin2:s  of  the  water  which  had  there  accumulated  for 
years.  In  consequence  of  political  disturbances  and 
various  drawbacks,  resulting  from  the  crisis  of  1866-67, 
in  the  interior,  the  workings  were  paralysed  for  the 
time. 


68 

My  then  partner,  Sefior  Don  Eustaquio  Villanueva,  re- 
sumed them  at  the  end  of  1867,  in   association   with 
Senor  Canto,  and  at  220  yards  run  of  adit  they  came 
upon  a  productive  section  of  the  vein,  half  a  yard  wide, 
rich  in  argentiferous  galena,  or  sulphide  of  lead,  with  a 
ley  of  250  ounces  silver  to  the  ton.     This  ore  was  found 
at  a  vertical  depth  from  the  surface  of  about  170  yards. 
From  that  date  up  to  the  3 1st  of  December,  1868,  the 
mine  has  produced  ore  of  the  value  of  about  £5,000, 
with  a  total  cost,  including  the  adit,  of  about  £3,900, 
leaving  a  profit  of  £1,100.     In  addition  to  this  absolute 
profit  there  are  44  pillars  in  virgin  ore,  as  also  the  en- 
tire floor  of  the  lower  working,  or  gallery,  55  yards  in 
length,  the  value  of  ore  in  which  I  have  roughly  esti- 
mated at  £4,200;  so  that  the  profit  of  the  mine  for  the 
short  time  it  has  been  at  work,  may  be  stated  at  nearly 
£5,000.     In  the  virgin  workings  25  miners  can  be  easily 
placed,  and  these  should  produce  monthly  at  least  30 
tons  of  first-class  ore  of  222  ounces,  and  45  tons   of 
second-class  of  102  ounces  to  the  ton.     These  ores  hold 
also  about  60  per  cent.  lead.     The  deeper  workings  are 
in  water,  but  it  is  being  extracted  easily  with  a  hand 
pump  worked  by  two  men. 

In  the  other  mine  of  Messrs.  Canto  and  Villanueva^ — 
"  San  Rumaldo," — they  have  followed  the  same  plan 
of  driving  levels  to  cut  two  veins  which  unite  at  81 
yards  from  the  entrance,  that  of  the  south  106  yards  in 
length,  and  that  of  the  north  80  yards.  In  this  mine 
they  have  not  yet  reached  the  depth  at  which  they 
expect  remunerative  results ;  but  they  have  nevertheless 
cut  some  fine  dark  ruby  silver  ore  (sulpho-antimonide 
of  silver),  the  first-class  holding  207  ounces  to  the  ton, 
and  the  remainder,  which  is  abundant,  128  ounces  to 


69 

the  ton.  The  expenditure  in  this  mine  has  been  about 
£860,  and  it  has  produced  in  ore  a  value  of  about 
£500. 

The  vein  varies  from  half  a  yard  to  a  yard  in  width. 
The  adits  here,  as  in  the  other  mine,  are  well  driven 
and  so  as  to  work  with  wheelbarrows  in  raising  orestuff. 

Messrs.  Canto  and  Villanueva,  in  addition  to  the  works 
already  indicated,  have  erected  a  small  r e verb eratory  fur- 
nace for  producing  argentiferous  copper  regulus,  situate 
a  short  way  from  the  mines,  and  on  the  highroad  to  Chili. 
It  stands  at  a  height  above  sea  level  of  8,702  feet,  and 
the  temperature  is  therefore  cold  even  in  summer. 
Wood  is  very  scarce,  and  rather  distant  from  the  works ; 
it  costs  about  £1  9s.  per  "cajon"  or  perch  of  16  cubic 
yards,  but  in  smelting  it  is  mixed  with  bituminous 
schists,  of  which  there  is  a  large  deposit  in  the  imme- 
diate neighbourhood  of  the  furnace.  These  schists  are 
found  at  a  few  feet  below  the  surface  and  cover  an  ex- 
tensive tract.  The  thickness  of  the  principal  bed  is 
about  half  a  yard,  composed  of  seven  distinct  layers.  It 
contains  28  per  cent  of  volatile  combustible  matter,  con- 
sisting principally  of  carburetted  hydrogen,  and  of  little 
power  as  a  generator  of  heat.  Still,  it  is  used  in  the  pro- 
portion of  40  per  cent,  with  wood,  but  is  fired  separately, 
being  burned  on  bars  in  another  fire  place,  separated  by 
a  small  bridge  from  and  at  right  angles  to  the  wood  grate, 
which  is  furthest  from  the  furnace  bridge.  Thus  the 
flame  of  the  latter  passes  over  and  ignites  the  schists, 
aiding  considerably  in  their  combustion.  These  schists 
leave  such  a  large  quantity  of  ash  and  residuum  that 
it  is  necessary  to  remove  the  grate  bars  every  now  and 
again  in  order  to  get  rid  of  these  accumulations,  which 
would  otherwise  interfere  with  the  draught,  or   free 


70 


entrance  of  air  to  support  combustion.  It  is  therefore 
doubtful  whether  the  use  of  these  schists  is  beneficial  or 
economical.  In  my  opinion  they  are  not  so  advan- 
tageous as  at  first  sight  would  appear. 

The  smeltino-  is  effected  in  a  furnace  of  the  reverbe- 
ratory  class  commonly  used  for  copper,  but  of  smaller 
size.  It  is  12  feet  in  length  by  6  in  width,  inside 
measurement,  with  a  stack  51  feet  in  height.  About 
22  quin.  of  crude  ore  forms  a  charge,  and  six  charges 
are  smelted  in  the  24  hours.  When  I  was  there  each 
charge  consisted  of  the  following  mixture  : — 

Yellow  and  purple  Copper  Pyrites...       of  10  „         350ft) 

Ditto,  ditto,   ditto,    ditto,    Llampos  )    ^^-^^  jcoTb 

(fine  grain)  j  "  ^ 

Silver   ores,  consisting  of  Sulphides,  "j 

Arsenides,    and    Antimonides,  ^  of  97OZ.  totheton  570B) 
with  galena  in  small  proportions  j 

Ditto,  ditto,  with  chlorides  of  silver,     of  65     ,,         „      650ft) 

Total 2,200 

This  charge  being  run  down  produces  in  regulus 
about  5  cwts.,  with  a  le}^  for  silver  of  about  200  ounces 
to  the  ton  and  20  per  cent,  of  copper.  The  loss  is  almost 
inappreciable. 

This  is  the  first  fusion  and  the  regulus  thus  obtained 
is  not  sufficient!}^ high  for  exportation;  it  has  therefore 
to  be  smelted  over,  a  second  time,  fresh  silver  and  cop- 
per ores  (silicates  and  carbonates)  being  added.  These 
increase  the  ley  by  yielding  their  metallic  contents  to 
the  already  formed  regulus,  which  contains  in  itself  suf- 
ficient excess  of  sulphur  to  render  the  addition  of  new 


71 

flux  unnecessary.     In  this  condition  it  is  sent  to  Chili, 
the  silver  and  copper  realising  their  respective  values. 

By  this  plan  of  smelting  the  large  quantity  of  poor 
silver  and  copper  ores  which  exists  in  the  Paramillo  is 
utilized,  which  otherwise  would  not  cover  the  cost  of 
its  conveyance  to  market. 

The  plumbiferous  ores  and  those  of  good  ley  for  silver 
are  not  smelted,  but  are  carefully  picked,  and  the 
smalls  washed  in  jigging  machines,  for  direct  remittance 
to  Chili — i.e.^  when  the  ley  is  from  300  ounces  to  the 
ton  upwards. 

The  capital  invested  in  this  business,  including  mines 
and  smelting  furnaces,  reaches  a  total  of  £9,000. 

At  the  time  of  my  visit,  the  quantity  of  ore  on  the 
surface,  including  240  mule  loads  (about  45  tons)  de- 
posited in  Uspallata  for  remittance  to  Chili,  and  the 
regulus,  &c.,  in  the  smelting  works,  represented  an  ap- 
proximate value  of  £3,800. 

The  employes  in  the  mines  and  at  the  smelting 
establishment  were  as  follows  :  Majordomos,  3 ;  foremen, 
3 ;  smelters,  4 ;  blacksmiths,  3 ;  carpenters,  1 ;  fore- 
miners,  14;  assistant  do.,  12;  other  labourers,  37 ;  there 
were  besides  of  woodmen  and  muleteers  about  30. 

In  addition  to  the  works  erected  by  Canto  and  Valla- 
nueva  (whose  partnership  is  disolved,  these  gentlemen 
now  prosecuting  their  labours  apart),  there  are  some 
others  of  importance  in  mining,  carried  on  by  Messrs. 
Maza  and  Correas  with  a  perseverance  and  application 
worthy  of  better  results  than  those  which  have  up 
to  the  present  time  been  obtained.  The  former  has  the 
following  mines  in  active  operation : — 

Santa  Rita. — The  lode  runs  east  to  west,  five  degrees 
to  the  south ;  deepest  shaft  45  yards  vertically ;   in  bene- 


72 

ficio  at  the  bottom  in  sulpho-antiraonide  of  silver  with 
galena.  In  this  mine  the  geological  statification  is  very 
clearly  marked,  and  various  beds  of  porphyry  have 
broken  up  the  vein,  as  has  been  previously  mentioned. 

Here  there  are  four  distmct  layers,  each  thicker  than 
the  other,  and  invariably  cutting  off  the  vein,  which, 
however,  on  this  obstacle  being  passed,  is  on  each  occa- 
sion found  to  be  better  at  the  increased  depth. 

Ore  on  surface,  12  tons,  containing  450  ounces  sil- 
ver to  the  ton.  The  people  employed  were  :  1  foreman, 
5  fore-miners,  and  4  assistant  do. 

Mine  Tajo. — This  vein  is  wide  and  important,  but  at 
the  present  moment  it  is  in  "  broceo,''  or  unproductive, 
and  the  workings  are  being  followed  in  depth.  The 
ores  from  this  mine  hold  100  ounces  silver  to  the  ton. 

In  Uspallata,  about  7  leagues  distant,  Senor  Maza  has 
erected  a  Chihan  mill,  with  the  object  of  grinding  and  re- 
ducing the  ores  from  his  mines.  It  was  not  completed 
at  the  time  of  my  visit,  but  it  was  hoped  that  it  would 
be  at  work  at  the  end  of  three  months.  Its  construc- 
tion had  cost  £330. 

This  gentleman  has  expended  about  £2,000  in  mines 
and  other  analogous  works. 

Dn.  Delfin  Correas  is  working  the  celebrated  old  mine 
of  "  Ballejos^''  with  the  lode  visible  on  surface  for  about 
600  yards.  Its  direction  is  N.N.E.  to  S.S.W.,  and  the 
vertical  depth  of  lowest  working  is  about  100  yards. 
Thouo-h  the  workings  and  means  of  communication  within 
the  mine  are  excellent,  the  lives  of  the  labourers  are 
very  seriously  endangered,  owing  to  the  taking  away 
and  thmning  of  old  pillars.  This  mine  was  the  first 
worked  by  the  Spaniards  when  the  district  was  dis- 
covered,  and   has   produced    many   thousand    pounds 


i6 


weight  of  silver ;  it  is  now  however  comparatively  worth- 
less, being  worked  out  in  the  accessible  parts,  and  dan- 
gerous to  the  lives  of  the  workmen  owing  to  the  falling 
in  of  the  roof  some  years  ago  when  several  miners  were 
buried  alive. 

There    were   fourteen    persons    employed    on    this 
mine. 

In  the  eastern  part  of  the  Paramillo,  and  close  to  the 
highroad  from  Mendoza  to  Uspallata,  there  are  many 
veins  of  auriferous  quartz,  formerly  worked  by  the 
Spaniards,  and  even  by  the  Indians,  for  we  find  their 
peculiar  old  grinding  stones  or  Marayes  strewn  about, 
and  these  are  essentially  pre-Hispano.  The  workings  are 
however  now  choked  up  and  may  be  said  to  be  worth- 
less; the  veins  are  narrow,  although  some  were 
extremely  rich  in  former  times.  Some  four  or  five  old 
miners  were  working  in  three  of  these  mines,  but  only 
extracting  fragments  of  ore  from  old  shafts  and  levels ; 
these  ores  hold  from  7  to  10  ounces  of  fine  gold  per  ton, 
but  the  quantity  is  so  insignificant  that  it  can  only  afi*ord 
a  miserable  existence  to  such  men.  There  is  no  water 
nearer  to  these  old  mines  than  at  a  distance  of  two 
leagues  down  valley,  and  that  so  trifling  that  it  scarcely 
aff'ords  sufiicient  for  the  necessary  domestic  use  of  the 
workmen. 

Three  copper  mines  also  exist  in  the  Paramillo,  but 
the  ley  of  these  ores  is  inferior,  not  exceeding  on  the 
average  16  per  cent.  They  are  carbonates,  oxides,  and 
silicates,  and  difiicult  to  smelt,  save  when  mixed  with 
the  sulphureous  fluxes  contained  in  the  mine  Salamanca 
in  the  south.  The  copper  deposits  in  Paramillo  cannot 
be  classified  as  veins,  but  as  bunches,  or  accidental 
deposits,  of  considerable   extent  and  importance;  but 


74 

they  may  suddenly  give  up  at  any  time.  They  are  at 
present  being  worked,  but  their  prospects  are  not 
of  a  very  promising  character.  They  are  named  "  El 
MantodeCobre,"  "  Santa  Elena,"  and  "Sud  California," 
and  in  former  years  yielded  large  quantities  of  copper. 
The  ores  were  smelted  by  Senor  D.  Felipe  Correas  in 
his  furnaces  at  Uspallata,  but  he  failed  to  obtain  good 
results,  for  want  of  sulphureous  ores,  and  in  consequence 
of  the  heavy  cost  of  carriage  of  the  latter,  which  pre^ 
vented  the  transport  from  La  Salamanca. 

At  that  time  the  value  of  copper  in  bar,  placed  in 
Chili,  was,  on  the  average,  about  £4  3s.  4d.  per  cwt, 
(at  present  it  is  only  worth  £2  10s.),  and,  with  the  high 
'charges  for  working  and  transport,  no  profit  was  possible, 
Now  it  is  otherwise.  A  cwt.  of  regulus^  holdmg  silver 
of  the  ley  exported  by  Senor  Canto,  is  at  least  worth 
£3  15s.  to  £4  3s.  4d.,  while,  provided  it  be  not  con- 
verted into  bar  copper,  the  expenses  of  reduction  are 
less  than  one  half. 

In  the  Paramillo  water  is  very  scarce,  and  the  little 
that  exists  is  of  inferior  quality.  This  is  found  close  to 
the  smelting  works,  issuing  from  a  few  small  springs, 
and  only  by  exercising  the  greatest  economy  in  its  use 
are  the  requirements  of  the  people  and  the  live  stock 
barely  supplied. 

Fuel  is  also  scarce,  since  wood  can  only  be  obtained 
at  some  distance  from  the  furnace,  costing  about  Is.  3d. 
per  cubic  yard;  but  the  chief  difficulty  consists  in  the 
Avant  of  mules,  and  muleteers  to  carry  it  to  the  furnace. 
This  arises  principally  from  the  almost  total  lack  of 
pasture  for  the  animals  in  the  mountains,  while,  from 
the  elevation  and  arid  nature  of  the  district,  the  mule- 
teers do  not  wish,  nor  indeed  can  they  very  long  endure 


75 

a  sojourn  there  with  their  animals.  Were  there  a  car- 
riage road  it  would  be  very  easy  to  obviate  this  difl&culty, 
as  large  quantities  of  lucerne  are  annually  lost  in  the 
province  (on  the  plains),  and  which,  if  collected  and 
pressed  dry,  would  be  an  important  branch  of  industry 
for  the  agriculturist,  and  a  signal  benefit  to  the  mining 
interests  of  Mendoza. 

North  of  the  Ballejos  mine,  I  found  various  thin  beds 
of  a  highly  bituminous  coal,  covering  a  considerable 
superficial  extent.  The  thickest  is  only  eight  inches, 
and  is  found  at  a  depth  of  four  feet  from  the  surface. 
A  shaft  had  been  sunk  on  this  deposit  to  a  depth  of  24 
feet,  but,  finding  no  more  coal,  the  attempt  was  aban- 
doned. In  my  opinion  the  exploration  ought  to  be 
continued  until  the  primary  rocks,  which  form  the  base 
of  the  Paramillo  range  adjoining,  are  reached.  The  geo- 
logical formation  observable  on  the  surface  is  secondary, 
with  patches  of  tertiary  here  and  there,  but  the  ground  / 
is  so  broken  up  and  disturbed  by  volcanic  action,  that 
it  is  impossible,  with  certainty,  to  fix  its  true  age. 
Nevertheless,  I  am  of  oj)inion  that  bituminous  coal,  of 
good  quality,  will  be  found  to  exist  in  Uspallata  valley, 
sloping  down  about  seven  miles  to  the  westward. 

I  have  analysed  several  of  the  samples,  taken  by  my- 
self from  the  beds  already  alluded  to,  and  obtained  the 
following  results : 

Specific  gravity,  1*1375;  colour,  black;  lustre,  re- 
splendent as  polished  jet ;  smooth,  hard,  brittle ;  fracture 
concoidal ;  opaque.     Composition : 

Hygroscopic  moisture  0.84  per  cent. 

Volatile  combustible  matter    54.80       ,, 

Fixed  carbon    40.36       „ 

Ash    4.00       „ 

100.00 


76 

Coke,  44*46  per  cent.,  of  which  4  per  cent  is  ash. 
Distilled  in  a  closed  retort,  at  a  comparatively  low 
temperature,  it  produces  a  hydro-carbon  oil,  containing  a 
fair  proportion  of  paraffin,  the  total  products  represent- 
ing 36  per  cent,  of  crude  oil,  and  48  per  cent,  of 
carbonaceous  residue. 

This  coal  is  not  so  abundant  in  the  Paramillo  as  the 
bituminous  schists,  which  I  have  already  mentioned  as 
being  used  for  fuel,  in  conjunction  with  wood,  at  Canto's 
furnace,  but  it  is  of  sufficient  importance  to  warrant  a 
more  searching  exploration,  with  the  object  of  deter- 
mining the  extent  and  quality  of  the  deposits.  As  the 
analysis  shows,  its  composition  is  valuable,  equally  for 
the  production  of  gas  and  kerosene  oil,  as  well  as  fuel 
in  furnaces  for  the  smelting  and  reduction  of  ores. 

The  bituminous  schists  of  Mendoza,  together  with  the 
liquid  petroleum  springs  existing  to  the  south  of  the 
city,  must  one  day  prove  invaluable  sources  of  material 
wealth,  on  account  of  their  great  commercial  value. 

The  most  important  deposit  of  petroleum  is  situated 
at  70  leagues  from  Mendoza,  on  the  road  leading  to 
the  "  Planchon  "  pass  for  Chili.  Sefior  Pando  (a  Chi- 
lian) had  experiments  made  on  their  quality  and  extent 
some  years  ago,  and  the  result,  as  regards  the  quantity 
and  quality  of  the  oil  extracted,  could  hardly  be  more 
satisfactory,  the  only  difficulty  being  to  decolorise  the 
oil ;  but  this,  in  my  opinion,  resulted  from  bad  reagents 
and  the  want  of  proper  apparatus  for  its  purification. 

The  crude  petroleum  yields  40  per  cent,  of  pure 
kerosene  oil ;  it  is  found  flowing  lazily  over  the  surface,  dis- 
charged through  subterranean  apertures  or  sources,  and 
when  the  atmospheric  temperature  rises  in  the  summer, 
it  causes  the  fluid  to  run  for  a  great  distance,   when 


77 

gradually  cooling,  it  forms  a  hard  and  compact  mass, 
without  changing  the  important  ingredients  of  its  com- 
position. At  ten  leagues  from  Mcndoza  is  another 
deposit,  not  so  extensive  or  important,  but  from  its 
proximity  to  the  city,  perhaps  may  be  of  much  value 
at  some  future  period. 

I  believe  that,  on  boring  to  some  considerable  depth, 
a  valuable  deposit  of  liquid  petroleum  will  be  found  in 
the  province,  and  it  is  surely  worth  while  to  try  the 
experiment,  and  if  possible  ascertain  its  extent  and  im- 
portance. In  Mendoza,  however,  there  are  neither 
capitalists  nor  enterprise  sufficient  to  carry  out  an  ex- 
ploration of  this  description,  and,  unless  the  National 
Government  assume  the  initiative  in  promoting  such 
survey,  it  will  never  be  undertaken  by  private  persons. 
There  exists  in  the  country  too  much  apathy  and 
indifierence  towards  this  discription  of  enterprise,  the 
more  so  in  this  part  of  the  Republic,  so  devoid  of  an 
expeditious  and  cheap  means  of  transport  for  its 
products. 

The  same  may  be  said  with  reference  to  the  bitumi- 
nous schists  of  the  Paramillo,  whose  yield  of  kerosene 
would  be  important,  and,  from  its  great  abundance,  the 
oil  might  be  extracted  with  profitable  results  if  only  an 
economic  means  of  conveyance  could  be  provided. 

At  two  leagues  from  the  city,  in  the  lower  spurs  of 
the  Paramillo,  towards  the  west,  is  a  somewhat  im- 
portant bed  of  the  same  bituminous  schists,  but  it  is  not 
worked. 

In  the  Paramillo  and  other  parts  of  the  province  first- 
class  fire  clays,  for  brickmaking  and  construction  of 
furnaces,  pottery,  &c.,  are  found,  covering  a  large 
extent  of  country,   and  extending  northwards  to   the 


78 

province  of  San  Juan;  indeed,  I  may  safely  assert  that 
it  reaches  as  far  as  the  frontiers  of  La  Eioja,  nearly  300 
miles  distant. 

These  clays,  and  the  formations  which  accompany  them, 
having'  reference  to  their  fossils  and  classification,  fur- 
nish  decisive  indications  of  the  presence  of  carboniferous 
deposits  throughout  the  entire  district.  In  the  proper 
place  I  will  allude  to  them*  and  state  what  I  observed 
during  my  explorations. 

On  the  road  across  the  Cordillera  to  Chili  (via  Uspal- 
lata  and  La  Cumbre),  at  a  place  known  by  the  name  of 
"  Puente  del  Lica"  (Bridge  of  the  Inca),  also  in  the 
province  of  Mendoza,  are  several  thermal  springs,  whose 
medicinal  properties  are  notorious  and  generally  admit- 
ted; but,  besides  these,  they  contain  a  considerable 
quantity  of  boracic  acid,  or  the  base  with  which  to  form 
borax,  an  article  of  great  consumption  and  utility.  In 
Tuscany,  in  Italy,  the  evaporation  of  waters  containing 
boracic  acid,  in  combination  with  soda,  is  a  valuable  and 
productive  industry,  and  one  of  the  chief  sources  of  re- 
venue for  the  Government. 

This  and  other  industries  in  the  province  of  Mendoza 
are  capable  of  rapid  development ;  but  one  great  incon- 
venience is  severely  felt — the  want  of  fire-wood — which 
every  day  is  becoming  scarcer,  more  distant  from  the 
city,  and  consequently  dearer.  For  these  reasons  it  is 
of  cardinal  importance  to  utilize  the  carboniferous  de- 
posits. The  cost  of  provisions  in  the  province  is  low ; 
flour,  from  5s.  to  10s.  per  cwt. ;  maize,  5s.  to  6s.  8d. ; 
beef,  2s.  6d.  to  3s.  6d.  per  arroba  of  25  lbs.;  potatoes, 
10s-  per  cwt.  Wine  and  raisins,  as  already  stated,  are 
most  abundant  and  cheap,  the  latter  Id.  per  lb. 

The  roads  from  the  city  to  the  mines  in  the  south 


79 

are  good,  and,  at  a  very  slight  cost,  might  be  rendered 
available  for  carriage  traffic ;  but  those  leading  to  the 
mining  district  of  the  Paramillo  are  extremely  rough, 
steep,  narrow,  and  in  every  sense  bad  and  almost  dan- 
gerous. The  route  through  "  Villavicencio  "  is  shorter, 
and,  being  the  highway  to  Chili,  over  which  all  the 
transandine  commerce  passes,  one  might  have  expected 
it  to  be  m  fair  condition,  but,  in  point  of  fact,  it  is  the 
very  worst.  I  would  therefore  call  the  serious  attention 
of  the  Government  to  this  road,  not  merely  as  necessary 
for  the  conveyance  of  mining  produce,  but  of  great 
commercial  and  public  utility,  as  being  the  national 
highway  to  the  frontier  and  Chili.  It  is  precisely  that 
section  of  it  extending  between  the  city  and  the  mines 
of  Paramillo  which  is  exceptionally  bad,  the  road  being 
better  and  more  easy  for  traffic  even  in  the  highest 
parts  of  the  Cordillera.  The  gully  of  "  Villavicencio  " 
is  very  narrow,  and  the  ascent  very  steep  and  high.  In 
the  winter,  when  it  freezes  and  ice  forms  on  the  stream 
running  through  the  gorge,  it  is  almost  impossible  to 
pass  over  it,  and  is  so  narrow  that  there  is  no  space  to 
avoid  doing  so  by  sidings;  a  steep  declivity  is  en- 
countered at  the  top,  most  difficult  of  ascent,  whilst  the 
prejudicial  effects  of  the  "Puna,"  (or  rarefaction  of  the 
atmosphere  so  severely  felt  at  high  altitudes),  inconve- 
nience the  traveller,  and  tend  to  inutilize  the  mules  and 
horses.  I  do  not  consider  that  it  would  be  either  easy 
or  really  useful  to  make  a  carriage  road,  or  even  a  good 
mule  track  by  this  route,  as,  the  gully  being  so  narrow 
it  would  soon  be  destroyed  by  violent  torrents  of  water 
which  flow  through  it  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year ; 
but  there  is  another  route,  a  little  more  to  the  north,  by 
which  a  carriage  road  might  be  constructed  at  a  very 


80 

small  cost,  the  results  and  commercial  value  of  which 
would  be  incalculable.  With  a  carriage  road  to  Uspal- 
lata,  the  cost  of  which,  I  believe,  would  not  exceed 
£2,000  sterling,  the  painful  passage  across  the  Cordillera 
would  be  rendered  comparatively  light,  and  the  distance 
to  be  traversed  on  mule  back  shortened  by  two  or  three 
days.  In  addition,  the  merchandise  and  produce  of  the 
country  could  be  transported  with  greater  facility  and 
at  less  cost,  while  the  numerous  mines  and  coal  deposits 
mio;ht  be  worked  with  success. 

The  route  which  I  would  propose  is  by  the  actual  road 
on  the  plain  as  far  as  Los  Cerillos,  seven  leagues  from 
the  city  to  the  north;  thence  by  Las  Higueras,  five 
leagues  to  the  north,  deviating  towards  the  west,  in  a 
course  more  or  less  "W.N.W.  to  El  Carrizal;  the  whole 
of  which  is  over  almost  level  ground,  presenting 
no  greater  difiiculty  than  the  removal  of  shrubs  and 
stones.  From  Carrizal  the  route  would  then  pass 
through  the  gorge  of  Las  Cuevas  to  an  elevated  pomt 
reached  by  a  very  gradual  ascent,  afterwards  traversmg 
the  Arroyo  de  las  Cuevas,  and  coming  out  upon  the  road 
from  San  Juan  to  Uspallata,  at  a  height  about  equal  to 
that  of  the  Paramillo  mines,  and  higher,  in  pomt  of  sea 
level,  than  the  former.  In  the  gullies  of  Las  Cuevas 
and  Carrizal  alone  would  works  of  any  importance  be 
required  to  render  this  route  perfectly  available  for 
carriage  traffic,  and  even  these  might  be  reduced  to  a 
little  blasting  away  of  rock  so  as  to  widen  two  or  three 
points  which  are  rather  narrow.  Once  above  the  Para- 
millo de  las  Cuevas,  the  road  is  easy  and  level,  presenting 
no  inconvenience  up  to  Uspallata  and  the  mines. 

This  road  would  also  serve  in  part  for  the  traffic  of 
San  Juan,  and    for    that  of  the  mines  of  Tontal   and 


81 

"Castano,"  which  are  at  present  isolated  from  the  plains 
for  want  of  a  carriage  road.  There  is  little  work  to  do 
in  making  a  road  from  Las  Cuevas  of  Mendoza  to 
"Calingasta"  and  "Castaiio,"  as  the  ground  is  com- 
paratively level  and  easily  traversed. 

Census,    1869  :  Population,   City,    8,124  ;    Country, 
57,332;  total,  65,456. 


K 


82 


PROVINCE  OF  SAN  JUAN. 


GENERAL  PHYSICAL    ASPECT,   DESCRIPTION    OF    SOIL, 
CLIMATE,  &c. 

The  province  of  San  Juan  is  situated  partly  upon  the 
eastern  slope  of  the  Andes,  and  partly  in  the  great  plain 
which  lies  at  their  base,  between  30°  and  32°  20'  south 
lat.,  68°  40'  and  72°  west  long.  (Paris.)  Its  limits  to 
the  west  are  Chili  by  the  crest  of  the  great  Andes ;  to 
the  north  and  north-east,  Rioja  by  the  extremity  of  the 
Sierras  de  Guandacol,  and  the  travesia  de  los  Llanos ;  to 
the  east  with  San  Luis  by  the  Sierra  of  Las  Quijadas 
and  the  lagoons  of  Guanacache.  These  lagoons,  and  a 
line  drawn  due  west  in  passing  by  the  Ramblon,  form 
its  limits  with  Mendoza  on  the  south.  Its  superficial 
area  is  about  3,300  square  leagues. 

This  province  represents  a  great  arid  plain,  often  saline 
towards  the  base  of  the  Andes,  which  mountains  are 
divided  longitudinally  by  extensive  valleys;  those  to 
the  north  of  the  capital  wide  and  almost  without  water; 
those  to  the  south  narrower  and  fairly  watered.  The 
river  of  San  Juan  descends  from  the  principal  range, 
and  describes  a  great  curve,  first  from  south  to  north, 


83 

then  from  north  to  south,  flowing  past  the  town,  and 
eventually  forming  lagoons  in  the  low  saline  plains. 
The  numerous  canals  derived  from  it  for  the  purpose  of 
irrigation  have  considerably  weakened  its  flow  and 
formed  marshes  along  its  course.  The  mountains  of 
this  province  are  almost  as  arid  as  the  plain,  and  it  is 
only  at  intervals  that  pasture  and  stunted  trees  are 
found  :  where  irrigation  is  possible,  the  natural  and  arti- 
ficial vegetation  is  luxuriant. 

The  province  possesses  only  one  good  river,  the  Rio 
de  los  Patos  (or  San  Juan  lower  down),  thus  named 
from  the  district  where  it  rises,  in  the  central  Cor- 
dillera, and  where  it  is  fed  by  the  eternal  snows  of 
Aconcagua  and  other  elevated  peaks  around  the  valley 
of  Los  Patos.  Its  direction  is  from  south  to  north, 
across  a  long  valley  formed  by  the  mass  of  the  Andes 
to  the  west,  and  to  the  east  by  the  Sierras  of  Yalguaras ; 
then,  due  northward,  until  meeting  with  the  Castano 
river  (flowing  south),  when  it  turns  to  the  west,  flowing 
through  the  valley  of  Pismanta  and  by  the  little  chain  of 
Villicun ;  it  then  describes  a  curve  through  the  valley 
of  Zonda,  passing  near  the  town  of  San  Juan,  where  it 
turns  south-eastwards  through  Caucete  and  along  the 
base  of  the  Sierra  Pie  de  Palo,  after  passing  which  it 
flows  almost  due  south  and  falls  into  the  lagoons  of 
Portezuelo,  the  third,  in  commencing  by  the  west 
of  the  series  of  Guanacache.  Its  total  length  is  nearly 
100  leagues,  its  breadth  is  very  variable,  according  to 
locality ;  it  is  considerable  in  leaving  the  valley,  and  is 
reduced  near  Caucete,  but  at  its  mouth  is  not  less  than 
80  metres  During  the  floods  or  freshets,  which  com- 
mence in  November  and  continue  all  the  summer,  it  is 
navigable  for  small  boats   from  Pie  de  Palo   to   the 


S4 

agoons.  It  overflows  its  banks  if  the  snows  of  the 
Cordillera  have  been  considerable  and  there  have  been 
some  violent  storms.  In  December,  1833,  the  capital 
was  threatened  with  entire  destruction,  and  about  half 
a  square  league  of  excellent  cultivated  land  to  the  west 
of  the  town  was  completely  washed  away,  leaving  only 
a  bed  of  stones  which  formed  the  substratum  of  the 
soil.  In  order  to  confine  it  to  its  bed,  and  to  secure  the 
suburbs  of  the  town  against  destruction,  a  substantial 
wall  of  solid  masonry  was  built,  under  the  administra- 
tion of  General  Benavides.  It  is  at  this  place  that  a 
number  of  canals,  for  irrigating  the  vineyards  and  sup- 
plying the  capital  and  the  department  of  Pozitos,  are 
taken  out.  These  waters  are  sometimes  so  abundant 
that  the  canals  overflow,  and,  being  neglected,  the  sub- 
terranean infiltrations  form  a  vast  marsh  (Cienega) 
filled  with  aquatic  plants,  rendering  it  almost  impas- 
sable. This  marsh  assumes  at  its  southern  extremity 
the  form  of  a  natural  canal — the  Cochagual — flowing 
into  the  first  of  the  lagoons  of  Guanacache.  The  con- 
struction of  a  navigable  canal  from  San  Juan  to  Mendoza 
would  have  the  advantage,  not  only  of  those  attending 
on  navigation,  but  also  to  supply  water  for  irrigating  50 
leagues  of  country,  now  almost  entirely  desert  for  want 
of  proper  management  of  the  surplus  waters  of  the  two 
provinces. 

The  Rio  de  San  Juan  offers  immense  advantages  for 
irrigation.  At  Murallon  the  altitude  is  800  metres ;  at 
the  lagoons  of  Guanacache,  in  a  straight  line  of  15 
leagues,  it  is  not  more  than  600  metres,  being  a  total 
declivity  equal  to  200  metres,  which  the  windings  of 
the  river  render  less  sensible.  The  level  lands 
on  the  two  banks,  especially  the  left,  would  permit  the 


85 

formation  of  an  incielinite  number  of  canals,  which 
could  be  conducted  at  will  over  a  deep  soil,  better  than 
that  nearer  the  mountains,  which  is  now  so  fertile. 
The  waters,  loaded  with  fertilising  silt  from  the  vall,eys 
of  the  Andes,  would  deposit  a  rich  compost  upon  the 
country,  and  rapidly  improve  the  most  sterile  soils. 

At  a  short  distance  from  the  town  the  stream  of 
Zonda  irrigates  the  valley  of  this  name  and  a  part  of  the 
lands  of  the  Marquezado.  The  valley  of  Jachal  is 
watered  by  the  river  of  this  name,  formed  by  the 
streams  Salado  and  Carnerito,  rising  from  the  plateau 
of  the  Andes  at  the  foot  of  the  Nevados  de  Potro  and 
Bonete ;  the  Kio  Vermejo  de  Vinchina  unites  with  them 
on  leaving  the  valleys,  and  all  those  streams  of  water, 
exhausted  by  numerous  infiltrations  and  minor  streams, 
are  lost  under  the  name  of  Rio  de  Tafin,  or  Sanjon,  on 
the  plains  to  the  east  of  the  chain  of  the  Pie  de  Palo ; 
in  rainy  seasons  and  after  freshets  they  sometimes  as- 
sume some  magnitude. 

All  the  other  water  courses  of  the  province  are  merely 
torrents  and  streams  from  the  mountains,  entirely 
absorbed  by  the  necessities  of  agriculture.  The  number 
is  unhappily  small,  for  in  leaving  Aconcagua,  and  to- 
wards the  north,  the  chain  of  the  Andes  is  pre-eminently 
dry. 

Nearly  all  the  orographic  system  of  San  Juan  belongs 
to  the  Andes,  and  presents,  from  west  to  east,  one  series 
of  longitudinal  chains,  inclining  a  little  to  the  south- 
east. The  great  mass  commences  to  enlarge  into  pla- 
teaux under  the  parallel  of  Jachal ;  lower  it  is  narrower, 
and  the  width  does  not  exceed  two  leagues.  The  Sierra 
of  the  Yalguaras  runs  parallel  to  the  principal  chain, 
from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  valley  of  Rio  de  los 


86 

Patos;  Tontal,  so  rich  in  silver  minerals,  forms  the 
eastern  buttress ;  the  chain  of  Zonda,  still  farther  to  the 
east,  borders  the  plain.  The  river  of  San  Juan  sepa- 
rates these  three  chains  from  those  of  the  north.  The 
most  westerly  encloses  some  large  valleys,  in  parts  arid, 
as  those  of  Pismanta  and  of  Jachal ;  whilst  their  little 
buttresses  circumscribe  narrow  and  habitable  regions, 
such  as  Mogna  and  Valle  Fertil. 

The  triangular  chain  of  the  Pie  de  Palo  is  the  most 
easterly  of  all.  The  little  Sierra  of  Guayaguas  is  con- 
nected with  that  of  Las  Quijadas  and  belongs  to  the 
system  of  San  Luis.  There  is  no  volcano  in  action  in 
the  mountains  of  San  Juan,  and  these  are  generally 
arid  and  desolate,  rich  only  in  mineral  wealth.  They 
gradually  rise  in  height  from  the  plain  to  the  mass  of 
the  Andes,  where  they  attain  an  average  altitude  of 
4,500  metres.  Aconcagua  and  a  few  others  are  snow 
capped ;  the  mountains  to  the  east  of  San  Juan  river 
are  only  accidentally,  or  during  winter,  coA^ered  with 
snow. 

In  consequence  of  its  physical  conformation,  the  pro- 
vince of  San  Juan  may  be  divided  into  three  regions — 
viz.,  the  mountainous  cordon  of  the  Andes,  the  valleys, 
and,  lastly,  the  plain.  The  Sierras  of  San  Juan  consist 
principally  of  porphyry  in  the  central  chain;  sandstone, 
clay-slate,  limestone,  and  gneiss  in  the  eastern.  The 
valleys  of  the  Andes  are  formed  by  an  immense  deposit 
of  boulders,  covered  by  a  crust  of  vegetable  earth  more 
or  less  thick ;  in  some  of  the  largest  valleys  the  boulders 
are  bare,  such  as  the  Pismanta  and  Jachal.  Farther 
off  from  the  mountains  the  soil  is  a  sandy  clay,  very 
often  saline,  with  some  chlorides,  carbonates,  and  sul- 
phates of  soda,  rendering  the  vegetation  scarce  and  stunted 


87 

The  plain  of  San  Juan  is  everywhere  a  desert  (trave- 
sia),  but  no  sooner  is  a  small  stream  of  water  brought 
to  it  than  the  aspect  changes  like  magic,  and  the  soil, 
formerly  dry  and  saline,  becomes  exuberant  with  rich 
vegetation,  and  yields  a  hundredfold;  but  it  drains 
and  dries  up  so  quickly  that  it  is  necessary  to  irrigate 
constantly  in  order  to  secure  good  crops. 

Those  lands  which  are  not  carefully  drained  become 
spoiled,  probably  in  consequence  of  the  salt  absorbed, 
which  renders  them  useless  and  marshy  (cienegas). 
This  drawback  could,  witliout  doubt,  be  remedied  by 
draining  and  by  reservoirs. 

Earthquakes  are  very  rare  in  San  Juan ;  more  so  than 
in  the  other  provinces  of  the  Andes. 

The  climate  is  eminently  dry ;  it  rains  very  rarely  in 
the  mountains  and  scarcely  ever  on  the  plains.  The 
temperature  in  the  summer,  December  to  March,  is  ar- 
dent; from  direct  observations  in  1857  we  have  30° 
Cent,  for  the  last  fortnight  in  January.  The  autumn 
and  winter  are  magnificent ;  it  freezes  a  little,  but  only 
in  the  morning.  The  winds  from  the  north  and  south 
are  violent ;  the  former,  called  "  Zonda,"  is  horribly  hot, 
the  "  Sirocco "  of  the  country ;  both  raise  frightful 
whirlwinds  of  a  saline  dust,  which  oblige  the  inhabitants 
to  shut  themselves  in  their  houses  during  their  continu- 
ance ;  happily  they  are  not  frequent.  Storms  break 
over  the  mountains,  but  rarely  on  the  plains,  and  only 
during  summer. 

The  salubrity  of  the  provmce  may  be  said  to  be  per- 
fect ;  there  is  no  peculiar  malady.  The  goitre,  so  frequent 
at  Mendoza,  is  not  seen  here.  The  only  epidemics  known 
here  are  the  eruptive  fevers  and  the  pneumonia  of  the 
Andes. 


88 

The  natural  vegetation,  in  consequence  of  the  dryness, 
is  mean  and  stunted.  It  is  only  near  the  streams,  and  in  the 
quebradas  (gullies)  that  true  trees  are  grown,  such  as  the 
espinillo,  quebracho,  chanar,  algarrobo,  and  especially 
jarillos,  retamos,  &c.     On  the  plains  are  the  same  species, 
but  blighted,  as  if  burned,  as  much  by  the  heat  of  the 
sun  as  by  the  salt  of  the  soil.       The  jume  and  other 
saline  plants  are  abundant,  and  contain  a  large  percentage 
of  sulphate  of  soda.     On  the  contrary,  all  plants  or  trees 
cultivated  and  irrigated  grow  to  perfection.       The  fruit 
and  forest  trees  of  Europe  succeed  well.     The  poplar  is 
as  extensive  as  at  Mendoza,  although  its  development  is 
less  complete.     It  is  the  only  tree  in  the  province  which 
yields  wood  for  construction,  but  the  quality  is  bad ;  it 
is  therefore  essential  to  add  other  useful  forest  trees, 
growing  slower,  it  is  true,  but  more  valuable  in  time 
to  come. 

Agriculture  is   carried    on  at  San   Juan  on  a  large 
scale,    owing    to    an    extensive    system     of  iiTigation. 
Cereals  are  of  the  first  importance ;  wheat  yields  beauti- 
fully, especially  in  the  first  years.     Fields  lately  cleared 
gave  150  to  one,  but  this  production  does  not  continue, 
and  falls  to  an  average  of  25  and  30  to  one ;  this,  however, 
is  a  good  return.      Maize  is  yet  more  prolific.      All 
vegetables  prosper,  as  also  do  the  date,  orange,  fig,  pear, 
apple,  and  almond,  and  ornamental  shrubs.     The  vine 
gives  considerable  productions,  as  much  for   the  pre- 
paration of  pasas  or  raisins,  as  for  the  manufacture  of 
wine  and  brandy.     The  white  wines  are  of  good  qualit}^, 
but  not  equal  to  those  of  Rioja  or  Mendoza.    The  brandy, 
which  is  obtained  by  distillation,  is  excellent.      The 
cultivation  of  the  lucerne  is  very  extensive ;  the  natural 
pastures  being  rare,  there  is  an  absolute  necessity  of  re- 


89 

placing  them  by  artificial  ones.  Generally,  of  all  the 
provinces  of  the  interior,  those  of  San  Juan  and  its 
neighbour  Mendoza  are  most  advanced  in  agriculture, 
which  may  even  there  be  greatly  extended,  because  there 
is  abundance  of  water,  chiefly  on  the  plains  extending 
towards  the  lagoons  of  Guanacache. 

The  animals,  wild  and  domestic,  are  the  same  as  in 
the  adjacent  provinces.  The  "aguara,"  or  red  wolf,  is 
common  in  the  great  "cienega,"  or  morass  of  Los  Car- 
rillos.  The  guanaco  is  seen,  not  only  on  the  mountains, 
but  on  the  plains.  The  river  of  Los  Patos  abounds 
with  fish,  among  them  trout  of  excellent  quality.  The 
lagoons  of  Guanacache  have  fish  of  various  species, 
which  thrive  well  in  the  briny  waters. 

The  inhabitants  do  not  much  occupy  themselves  with 
breeding  cattle,  except  in  some  estancias  of  the  moutains. 
It  is,  in  fact,  more  profitable  to  fatten  the  animals  pur- 
chased in  the  province  of  San  Luis,  in  the  vast  enclo- 
sures of  cultivated  lucerne,  which  could  well  nourish 
thirty  thousand  annually. 

Bullocks,  horses,  mules,  &c.,are  fed  with  care  in  these 
enclosures ;  the  more  necessary  since  the  transit  of  the 
Andes    requires   a   considerable    number  of  beasts  of 
burden     The  goat  and  sheep  are  only  fed  on  the  meagre 
natural  pastures  of  the  mountains.      Merino  sheep  have 
long  since  been  introduced,  and  some  farmers  have  flocks 
remarkable  for  their  large  size  and  the  fineness  and  abun 
dance  of  their  wool.     The  fattening   of  cattle   in   the 
"  potreros"  (fields  where  the  lucerne  is  reproductive  under 
the  influence  of  heat  and  a  well-directed  irrigation)  is  done 
very  rapidly ;  from  two  to  three  months  generally  suffice. 
The    animals  are  then  sent  from  the  environs  of  thci 
capital  to  the  valleys  of  Chili,  about  12  to  14  days' jom-- 
ney,  where  they  are  sold  at  very  remunerative  prices, 


90 

The  commercial  resources  of  the  province  are  good, 
but  agriculture  forms  the  principal  wealth.  It  furnishes 
food  for  local  consumption,  which  is  considerable,  and 
also  for  export;  large  quantities  of  flour,  wines,  brandy, 
and  dried  fruits  are  sent  to  the  neighbouring  provinces, 
and  raisins  are  sent  as  far  as  the  coast  and  to  Chili. 
Soap  is  manufactured  by  aid  of  the  ashes  of  the  jum6 
(a  crude  carbonate  of  soda)  so  abundant  in  the  saline 
districts. 

The  great  drawback  to  the  country  is  the  want  of 
good  hard  wood  for  the  joiner  and  carpenter.  They  are 
obliged  to  import  them  from  the  coast  or  from  Tucu- 
man  on  the  backs  of  mules  at  an  exorbitant  price. 

About  1848,  following  the  example  of  Mendoza,  the 
silk  worm  was  introduced,  but  the  epidemic  which 
killed  them  at  that  place  produced  the  same  disaster 
at  San  Juan,  and  there  has  been  no  attempt  to  revive 
this  industry  which  is  admirably  suited  to  the  climate, 
and  which  had  given  good  results. 

San  Juan,  like  Rioja,  forms  an  oasis  in  the  midst  of  a 
desert  of  dust  and  salt ;  but  the  water  from  its  rivers 
has  enlarged  its  boundaries,  and  provides  nourishment 
for  a  considerable  population.  The  capital  communi- 
cates with  all  the  departments  by  mule  paths.  Its 
principal  routes  are  those  to  the  west,  which,  crossing 
the  Andes,  connect  it  with  Chili. 

The  pass  of  Los  Patos  is  entered  either  by  the 
valleys  of  Zonda  or  Acequion,  or  crossing  the  chains  of 
the  Tontal  and  of  the  Yalguaras.  Uspallata  and  La 
Cumbre  pass  is  the  best,  but  a  little  longer.  Valparaiso 
is  reached  by  either  of  the  two  routes  in  eight  or  ten 
days.  There  is  frequent  intercourse  with  Copiapo 
by  the  valleys  of  Pismanta,  San  Guillermo,  Pastos 
Largos,    and  the   passes  of  Come-Caballo  and  Pircas 


Negras.  Another  route  leads  to  Coquimbo  and  Huasco. 
The  route  from  the  city  of  San  Juan  to  Mendoza,  40 
leagues,  is  transitable  for  carriages,  and  a  diligence  runs 
every  week ;  it  is  perfectly  level,  but  very  fatiguing,  be- 
cause of  a  travesia,  or  desert,  of  20  leagues,  without 
water  or  forage  from  the  post-station  of  Guanacache  to 
that  of  Jocoli.  This  inconvenience  could  be  overcome 
by  digging  two  or  three  wells  and  the  establishment  of 
two  post-houses  not  far  from  the  Tunumaya. 

There  is  one  direct  route  of  90  leagues  as  far  as  San 
Luis,  which  passes  along  the  river  and  the  lagoons. 
The  water  available  upon  this  route  is  a  little  brackish, 
but  the  animals  do  not  appear  to  dislike  it.  The  wag- 
gons can  always  follow  it,  but  more  frequently  the 
journey  is  made  on  mule  back.  The  route  from 
Eioja,  by  Valle  Fertil,  is  only  practicable  for  mules, 
and  through  a  travesia  of  37  leagues.  It  is  less  difficult 
by  way  of  the  Sierra  Pie  de  Palo  and  the  point  of  that 
of  Yalle  Fertil,  or  La  Huerta ;  by  this  route,  now  open 
to  carriages,  Rioja  may  be  reached  in  four  days.  To 
Cordova  there  is  a  direct  route  by  the  desert,  in  touch- 
ing Caucete,  Guayaguas,  the  southern  points  of  the 
Sierra  Los  Llanos,  San  Pedro  de  los  Sauces,  and  the 
Cordoves  Sierra,  a  distance  of  120  leagues,  but  now  a 
carriage  track  is  being  opened  which  will  place  Cordova 
in  connection  with  San  Juan,  by  coach,  in  five  days. 
This  will  of  course  be  the  high  road  to  Rosario  and 
Buenos  Ayres. 

The  province  of  San  Juan  is  divided  into  seven  de- 
partments, which  are  sub-divided  into  districts.  The 
province  has  two  great  centres  of  population,  viz.,  the 
Capital  and  Jachal — all  the  other  districts  have  very 
few  inhabitants. 


92 

The  department  of  the  capital  is  divided  into  two, 
the  capital  proper  and  its  suburbs.  To  the  south  of  the 
capital  is  the  department  of  Los  Pozitos ;  to  the  west, 
that  of  Caucete ;  to  the  north-west,  that  of  Albardon ; 
north-east,  that  of  Angaco ;  north,  those  of  Jachal  and 
ofValleFertil. 

The  department  of  the  Capital  is  comprised  within 
the  great  curve  which  is  formed  by  the  Rio  de  San  Juan, 
and  is  consequently  very  extensive  from  east  to  west. 
To  the  south  it  is  bounded  by  that  of  Pozitos. 

The  city  of  San  Juan  was  founded  in  1561  upon  the 
river  of  this  name,  at  a  place  called  "  Pueblo  Viejo,"  or 
old  village,  which  was  abandoned,  and  the  new  town 
formed  farther  east,  because  of  the  inundations  which 
menaced  it.  It  is  bounded  by  four  main  streets,  20 
metres  wide,  planted  with  poplars,  forming  an  avenue 
and  enclosing  an  oblong  1,900  j^ards  from  west  to  east, 
and  1,300  from  north  to  south.  In  all  there  are  117 
blocks,  or  "  manzanas."  The  ordinary  streets  are  13 
metres  broad,  and  are  now  paved,  and  have  foot-paths 
and  wooden  bridges  over  the  numerous  canals  which  tra- 
verse them,  and  which  give  water  to  the  houses  and 
gardens. 

The  principal  square  or  plaza  is  now  a  most  charming 
resort  for  the  townsfolk,  being  planted  with  double  rows 
of  acacias  and  other  trees,  and  mider  whose  grateful 
shade  are  placed  neat  iron  sofas.  All  this  was  done  by 
ex-Governor,  now  President  Sarmiento,  who  found  this 
part  of  his  native  town  in  the  most  repulsive  and  filthy 
condition  on  his  triumphal  entree  in  1861.  It  had  long 
been  a  series  of  holes,  which  formed  receptacles  for  all 
the  offal  and  sweej^ings  of  the  town,  but  Sefior  Sarmiento 
forbid  these  practices,  and  had  them  filled  up  with  earth 


93 

and  nicely  levelled,  and  trees  planted.  On  the  western 
side  stands  the  Cathedral,  an  unimposing  edifice 
of  brick  and  lime,  stuccoed  over,  having  two  towers  or 
belfries,  and  three  large  doorways.  Opposite  to  it  stands 
the  new  Government  house,  a  neatly  constructed  edifice 
adjoining  the  prison.  In  it  are  the  Legislative  Cham- 
ber, the  Law  Courts,  and  Executive  Ofiices.  A  few 
j)rivate  houses  of  no  importance  complete  the  square. 

The  church  of  Santo  Domingo  is  small  and  adjoins  a 
ruined  convent.  The  church  of  La  Merced,  commenced 
by  Quiroga,  is  not  yet  finished.  The  Augustine  con- 
vent is  not  an  edifice  of  any  pretensions,  and  is  in  a 
semi-ruinous  condition.  Nearly  all  the  edifices  are  of 
"adobes,"  or  sun-dried  bricks;  the  walls  are  extremely 
thick.  The  roofs  are  made  with  small  beams  of  poplar 
and  algarrobo,  covered  with  canes,  and  plastered  over 
with  mud ;  some  have  "azoteas"  or  flat  roofs.  The  modern 
houses  are  pretty  and  tastefully  laid  out. 

The  Government  is  now  engaged  in  restoring  the 
ruined  churches,  in  finishing  those  recently  commenced, 
in  building  a  municipal  house  and  barracks,  and  repairing 
the  schools.  When  all  these  improvements  are  com- 
pleted the  appearance  of  the  town  will  be  greatly 
changed. 

One  of  the  old  unfinished  churches  was  converted  by 
ex-Governor  Sarmiento  into  a  fine  school  house,  and  is 
now  finished.  It  is  a  fine  edifice,  two  storeys,  and  has 
perhaps  the  largest  saloon  of  any  school  in  South  America, 
furnished  with  all  the  most  modern  school  appurtenances 
imported  from  the  United  States.  It  most  justly  and 
deservedly  retains  the  name  of  its  founder,  and  is  known 
by  "Escuela  Sarmiento"  all  over  the  Republic. 

There  are  a  number  of  foreign  settlers  and  skilful 


94 

workmen  sufficient  for  works  ofany  immediate  necessity. 
All  immigrants  of  the  working  classes  are  sure  of  constant 
employment,  for  they  are  wanted  throughout  the  pro- 
vince ;  the  town  has  made  remarkable  progress  under  its 
new  administration  during  the  last  few"  years. 

The  suburbs  of  the  capital  are  very  considerable,  and 
are  divided  into  four  sections  or  parishes.  The  one  to 
the  north,  Concepcion,  includes  Pueblo  Viejo,  or  the  old 
town,  and  Las  Chimbas.  In  the  faubourg  of  Concepcion, 
wheat,  maize,  lucerne,  vine,  &c.,  are  cultivated.  Each 
proprietor  has  generally  his  house  in  the  principal  street, 
or  in  his  fields,  carefully  surrounded  with  walls  en  pise . 

The  second  section  or  parish,  situated  to  the  west, 
is  that  of  Los  Desamparados.  The  street  along  which 
the  population  centres  is  nearly  two  leagues  long,  and 
leads  to  the  Marquezado;  here,  upon  the  river,  is  the 
"  Murallon,"  300  metres  long  and  of  solid  construction, 
which  henceforth  will  preserve  this  faubourg  from  inun- 
dations; the  cultivation  is  agricultural.  At  Marque- 
zado are  numerous  kilns  for  lime  and  brick.  Black 
marble,  with  white  veins,  abound  in  the  neighbouring 
hills  of  Zonda.  This  canton  leads  to  the  valley  of  Zon- 
da,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Sierra,  watered  by  a  charming 
stream  of  clear  water,  which  is  a  favourite  bathing 
place  for  the  families  of  the  town  during  summer ;  the 
waters  of  this  stream  are  muddy  after  freshets.  The 
valley  of  Zonda  is  at  an  altitude  of  1,000  metres  and 
produces  excellent  fruits. 

The  eastern  section,  or  parish,  is  Santa  Lucia,  and  is 
composed  of  one  street  two  leagues  long,  and  some  dis- 
tant cantons,  such  as  Las  Chacaritas,  Rincon-Cercado, 
&c.,  where  there  are  canals  for  irrigation,  and  where  the 
inhabitants  are  employed  in  raising  cereals  and  lucerne. 


95 

The  south  section,  or  parish,  La  Trinidad,  borders 
Los  Pozitos ;  it  is  not  so  extended  as  the  preceding,  and 
includes  principally  country  houses  and  gardens.  Irri- 
gation everywhere  produces  a  magnificent  vegetation. 

The  town  of  San  Juan  is  situated  in  31°  30'  south 
lat.,  and  69^  40'  west  long.  (Paris),  according  to  De 
Laberge,  and  at  an  altitude  of  704  metres. 

The  department  of  Los  Pozitos  is  to  the  south  of  the 
capital;  the  south  section  is  the  most  populous  and  best 
cultivated,  for  which  it  is  admirably  adapted,  and  there 
are  large  farms  and  estates  surrounded  with  poplars  and 
enclosed  walls.  The  valley  of  Acequion,  between  the 
Sierra  of  Zonda  and  that  of  the  Paramillo,  belongs  to 
this  department,  and  here  are  the  cultivated  lands  of 
Durasno,  Barros,  Acequion,  Pedernal,  and  Quebrada  de 
Montaiio.  The  route  to  Uspallata  passes  through  here. 
To  the  south-west,  along  the  Sierra  of  Zonda,  upon 
the  route  to  Mendoza,  are  the  districts  of  Carpinteria, 
Canada  Honda,  and  Guanacache ;  the  first  was  abandoned 
for  want  of  water,  the  two  others  produce  wheat  and 
vines.  Near  Los  Cerrillos,  in  the  district  of  Cochagual, 
there  are  only  cattle  farms,  which  are  watered  by  the 
great  Cienega,  or  marsh,  formed  by  the  infiltrations 
from  irrigation  on  the  high  lands.  The  department  of 
Albardon  stands  to  the  north-north-west  of  the  capital 
on  the  other  side  of  the  river.  It  embraces  the  foot  of 
the  Sierra  of  Villicun,  the  valley  of  Ullun,  that  of 
the  distant  Calingasta,  and  a  part  of  the  Kio  de  San 
Juan.  The  village  of  Albardon  is  situated  near  the 
river,  and  possesses  some  fine  cultivated  farms.  About 
a  league  from  the  town,  upon  the  Avestern  slopes  of  the 
little  Cerro  de  Villicun,  sulphurated  mineral  waters 
are  found,  which  are  most  successful  in  chronic  rheu- 


96 

matism  and  skin  diseases.  Baths  should  be  established, 
as  now  everyone  brings  his  own  tent,  or  lodges  in  the 
wretched  hovels  of  the  neighbourhood.  The  valley  of 
Ullun  is  badly  watered  and  has  but  little  pastures.  All 
the  region  to  the  north  of  the  river  is  parched  and  dry, 
but  in  the  valleys  there  is  vegetation.  The  lovely 
valley  of  Calingasta  is  included  in  this  department ;  it  is 
situated  upon  a  little  river,  which  comes  from  the 
Andes  and  flows  into  the  Rio  de  San  Juan.  Its  altitude 
is  about  5,000  feet,  and  it  is  rich  in  fruit  and  cereals. 
Agriculture  is  followed  also  at  Los  Tapiecitos,  Barrial, 
and  Pachaco. 

The  department  of  Angaco,  or  San  Salvador,  is 
situated  to  the  north-east  of  the  capital,  on  the  other 
side  of  the  river,  between  the  Sierras  of  Villicun  and 
of  Pie  de  Palo.  Here  the  facility  of  irrigation  has  per- 
mitted an  extended  cultivation  as  far  as  Punta  del 
Monte,  by  a  canal  of  six  leagues  long.  The  village  of 
San  Isidro  is  the  most  populous  of  the  department. 
Angaco  has  only  one  church.  This  department  was 
created  in  1825,  under  the  enlightened  administra- 
tion of  Dr.  Carril,  then  Governor  of  the  province,  who 
made  the  necessary  canals  for  irrigation.  These  two 
cantons,  besides  agriculture,  breed  cattle.  The  lands 
are  a  little  saline,  and  dry  rapidly  if  the  water  is  not 
often  renewed.  The  route  from  Valle  Fertil  and  from 
Rioja  passes  through  them,  and,  on  leaving  Punta  del 
Monte,  up  to  12  leagues  from  Valle  Fertil,  it  is  a  trave- 
sia,  or  desert,  of  37  leagues. 

The  department  of  Caucete  is  situated  on  the  eastern 
side  of  the  river,  at  the  base  of  Pie  de  Palo,  and  stretches 
out  to  the  lao-oons  of  Guanacache  and  to  the  confines  of 
Rioja  and  San  Luis;  although  of  enormous  extent,  it 


97 

was  formerly  little  cultivated,  for  want  of  water. 
Before  1825,  this  canton  was  a  complete  desert.  Under 
the  administration  of  Carril,  a  company  was  formed 
to  acquire  from  the  State  a  vast  extent  of  land  at  a  very 
low  price,  on  condition  of  putting  it  in  a  state  of 
cultivation ;  then  the  work  of  colonization  commenced, 
but  was  retarded  by  the  civil  wars,  and  it  was  not  till 
the  end  of  1858  that  it  acquired  a  true  development. 
The  land  was  divided  into  squares  of  10  cuadras  (40 
acres).  On  one  side  a  principal  canal  was  opened  of  4 
metres  broad  and  two  deep,  and  then  divided  into  a 
number  of  secondary  canals,  sufficient  to  irrigate  6,000 
hectares  of  good  land,  which  was  cleared  and  levelled. 
Now  the  town  of  Caucete,  or  Villa  Independencia,  is 
situated  in  the  midst  of  these  fertile  lands,  and  possesses 
a  church,  a  municipal  house,  a  school,  and  begins  to  pros- 
per. The  first  concessionaires  of  the  land  have  become 
rich  proprietors  and  live  bounteously  on  the  products 
of  their  vines,  their  wheat,  and  the  felling  of  the  poplar, 
at  present  the  only  forest  tree  of  the  district. 

The  route  from  San  Juan  to  San  Luis  passes  here.  In 
the  little  Sierra  of  Guayaguas  there  are  some  farms,  but 
all  these  places  are  encompassed  with  desert. 

The  department  of  Jachal  lies  to  the  north  of  the 
capital,  in  a  large  valley,  a  great  part  of  which  is  arid 
towards  the  south;  but  its  upper  portion  is  well 
watered.  In  the  mountains,  which  encompass  it,  there 
are  a  number  of  little  valleys,  well  peopled  and  fairly 
cultivated.  The  river  of  Jachal  is  formed  by  the 
streams  from  the  plateaux  of  the  Cordillera,  and  has 
given  a  great  impulse  to  agriculture,  irrigating  large 
tracts  of  land  in  the  department. 

The  town,  or  Villa  de  Jachal,  has  a  church,  school,  and 


98 

large  gardens.  In  the  environs  were  formerly  several 
crushing  mills  for  the  gold  and  silver  ores,  which  were 
collected  in  the  various  mines  of  the  department,  prin- 
cipally from  the  Cerros  of  Gualilan,  to  the  south  of  the 
town,  where  a  rich  auriferous  quartz  is  found.  Jachal 
maintains  active  commercial  relations  with  the  ports  of 
Coquimbo  and  of  Huasco,  in  Chili,  and  to  where 
they  send  cattle,  fattened  in  its  vast  "  potreros,"  and 
receive  in  exchange  European  merchandise.  Its  com- 
merce with  the  capital  is  of  less  importance,  although 
only  50  leagues  distant,  because  of  the  bad  roads.  In 
fact,  from  Rio  de  San  Juan  to  within  12  leagues  of  the 
chief  station,  or  post-house,  it  is  a  desert  known  as  the 
"  Travesia  de  Jachal,"  and  where  beasts  of  burden 
suffer  much  from  heat  and  want  of  water. 

This  department  is  subdivided  into  seven  districts — 
the  town  of  Jachal ;  that  of  Gualilan  to  the  south ;  to 
the  north,  La  Pampa,  where  the  mines  of  Picado  and 
Guachi  are  situated ;  Guaco  to  the  north-east,  with  well 
cultivated  fields,  vineyards,  and  cattle;  to  the  west, 
Rodeo  and  Iglesia,  in  the  valley  of  Pismanta,  also  well 
cultivated.  The  valley  of  Pismanta  is  parallel  to  that 
of  Jachal,  and  along  the  Cordillera  it  is  arid  in  all  the 
lower  part,  but  in  the  upper  it  is  well  watered,  where 
the  population  is  increasing.  Here  is  also  found  sul- 
phurated mineral  waters  and  deposits  of  native  sulphur 
and  of  salt.  To  the  east,  the  district  of  Mogna 
is  the  most  populous  after  Jachal;  there  is  a  church,  a 
pretty  valley  watered  by  the  Rio  Moquina,  and  several 
flour  mills,  moved  by  water,  but  agriculture  forms 
the  most  important  featuTe  in  the  district. 

The  department  of  Valle  Fertil,  or  the  fertile  valley, 
to  the  north-east  of  the  capital,  opens  upon  the  great 


desert  of  the  northern  Salines.  Although  there  is 
water  sufficient  for  agriculture  on  a  large  scale,  yet  the 
inhabitants  principally  occupy  themselves  with  the 
breeding  of  cattle,  and  make  butter  and  cheese,  which 
they  send  to  San  Juan.  The  town  of  Valle  Fertil  is 
upon  the  route  to  Rioja,  about  half-way  from  San  Juan, 
but,  like  Jachal,  there  is  an  inconvenient  travesia  of 
37  leagues  to  reach  it.  These  two  routes,  which  can 
scarcely  be  avoided,  could  be  rendered  practicable,  if 
wells  were  sunk  and  post-houses  established,  and  thus 
travellers  would  be  spared  the  inconvenience  of  a  long 
and  dangerous  distance,  especially  if  not  well  mounted. 
The  town  of  Valle  Fertil  is  fairly  populated,  has  a  good 
church,  two  schools,  and  a  benevolent  society,  and  is 
making  true  progress.  A  better  distribution  of  the 
water  would  greatly  increase  agriculture.  On  the  hills 
and  in  the  valleys  of  the  department  are  bred  large 
numbers  of  cattle,  and  numerous  estancias  are  scattered 
at  the  foot  of  the  eastern  course  of  the  Sierra  upon  the 
confines  of  the  llanos  of  Rioja,  The  springs  of  fresh 
water  are  very  scarce,  and  the  possession  of  them  occa- 
sions frequent  quarrels  among  the  inhabitants. 

MINERAL   RESOURCES,    &c. 

This  province,  so  richly  endowed  by  nature  with 
mineral  wealth,  possesses  a  metalliferous  zone  of  forty 
leagues  in  length  by  as  many  in  breadth,  or  say,  an  area 
of  14,400  square  miles.  I  do  not  assert  that  the  whole 
of  this  region  is  traversed  by  metallic  veins,  but  in  the 
greater  part  it  is  so,  and  the  extent  and  richness  of  its 
deposits  are  still  unknown.  Mining  in  San  Juan,  as  almost 
everywhere  throughout  the  whole  Republic,  is  yet  in  its 
infancy,  and  its  true  principles  very  little  understood. 


100 

Its  importance  can  only  be  demonstrated  after  years  of 
scientific  exploration  by  competent  and  energetic  men. 
Unfortunately,  up  to  the  present  it  has  been  impossible 
to  carry  out  a  work  of  so  useful  and  civilizing  a  nature ;  but 
a  few  years  of  peace  and  tranquillity,  which  will  guarantee 
life  and  property,  and  secure  to  the  industrious  and  well 
disposed  the  fruits  of  his  exertion,  will  stimulate  the 
rapid  development  of  this  and  many  other  industries  of 
vital  importance  for  the  Republic. 

MINERAL  DISTRICT  OF  TONTAL. 

After  my  visit  to  the  Paramillo  of  Mendoza,  I  followed 
the  great  northern  Andine  route  along  the  slopes  of  the 
Tontal,  until  I  reached  the  mines  of  the  district  situated 
near  the  western  summit  of  this  range,  and  which,  further 
to  the  south  forms  the  Paramillo.  The  mines  are  about  30 
leagues  distant  by  road,  and  18  in  a  direct  line,  W.S.  W. 
of  the  city  of  San  Juan. 

The  road  from  the  mines  of  Mendoza  to  those  of  Tontal 
(35  leagues)  is  good  and  comparatively  level,  passing 
through  several  open  valleys,  and  with  a  trifling  expendi- 
ture might  be  converted  into  a  good  carriage  road,  at  least 
as  far  as  the  smelting  works  of  "  Hilario,"  located  in  the 
valley  of  Calingasta,  at  the  foot  of  the  Cordillera  of  Tontal, 
and  on  the  edge  of  the  Rio  de  los  Patos. 

The  first  mineral  deposit  of  Tontal  was  discovered  by 
a  Chilian  in  1860;  but,  owing  to  political  disturbances, 
it  was  almost  abandoned,  until  the  year  1862,  when  the 
actual  President  of  the  Republic  assumed  the  govern- 
ment of  his  native  province,  and  had  the  district 
thoroughly  explored  by  the  author,  who  was  engaged  in 
Chili  for  that  purpose. 

These  investigations  resulted  in  ascertaining  that  this 
mineral  district  was  one  of  great  promise,  and  would,  if 


101 

well  worked,  yield  profitable  returns  to  investors.  A 
limited  company  was  formed  in  San  Juan  with  the  object 
of  constructing  furnaces  and  erecting  machinery  for  the 
amalgamation  of  the  ores.  The  capital  was  £24,000, 
and  although  too  small  to  carry  out  any  very  extensive 
works,  was,  however,  sufficient  to  purchase  machinery 
and  plant  in  England,  and  engage  the  necessary  workmen 
to  erect  it  and  carry  out  operations  on  a  moderate  scale. 

After  encountering  many  difficulties  in  the  transport 
and  erection  of  the  machinery  in  a  country  without 
roads,  and  with  people  little  or  not  at  all  accustomed 
to  this  kind  of  work,  the  original  company  was  unable 
to  follow  up  the  undertaking,  and  other  arrangements 
became  necessary.  I  offered  to  purchase  all  the  shares 
at  par,  and  to  work  the  mines  on  my  own  account,  with 
the  ulterior  view  of  forming  a  strong  combination  in 
England  for  developing  the  property. 

The  shareholders  accepted  my  proposal  and  transferred 
all  the  property  of  the  company  to  me.  The  erection  of 
the  machinery  was  proceeded  with,  at  Hilario,  being  the 
spot  selected,  as  preferable  from  the  abundance  of  water, 
wood,  and  other  articles  of  primary  necessity  in  its 
neighbourhood. 

At  the  end  of  1865  the  establishment  was  finished 
and  commenced  operations,  but  meanwhile  the  Tontal 
mmes  were  being  constantly  worked  with  satisfactory 
and  profitable  results.  In  addition,  the  mining  district 
of  Castaiio  was  discovered,  about  18  leagues  to  the  north, 
rich  in  plumbiferous  ores,  a  most  important  ingredient 
or  flux  for  the  reduction  of  the  "dry"  and  refractory 
ores  of  Tontal.  Hundreds  of  miners  were  employed  in 
these  two  districts,  and  at  one  period  more  than  100 
mines  were  in  active  operation  at  the  same  tiniL'. 


102 

While  the  reduction  establishment  was  being  com- 
pleted, ore  was  being  accumulated  on  a  small  scale,  and 
in  the  ten  months  during  which  the  smelting  and  amalga- 
mation operations  were  carried  on  at  Hilario,  1,404| 
tons  of  ore  passed  through  the  furnaces,  holding 
94,562-40  ounces  of  silver,  the  value  of  which  extracted 
would  be  about  £24,000  sterling. 

The  whole  of  this  ore  was  raised  from  the  Tontal  and 
Castaiio  mines,  and  I  merely  quote  these  figures  in  order 
to  afford  some  idea  of  their  prolific  character.  Large 
quantities  were  besides  exported  to  Chili  and  to  other 
works  in  the  province. 

Towards  the  end  of  1866  operations  were  suspended 
at  Hilario,  owmg  to  the  revolution  and  impossibility  of 
securing  sufficient  transport  accommodation  between  the 
mines  and  the  works.  Hundreds  of  tons  of  selected  ore 
lay  at  the  mines  which  there  were  no  means  of  conveying 
to  the  smelting  works.  The  furnaces  were  capable  of 
reducing  upwards  often  tons  a  day,  Avhilethe  deliveries  of 
ore  did  not  exceed  three  tons.  European  employes  and 
workmen,  taken  there  at  great  cost,  and  under  contract 
for  certain  periods  to  receive  fixed  wages,  had  to  be 
paid ;  and  it  is  easy  to  conceive,  therefore,  that,  in  the 
absence  of  a  sufiicient  quantity  of  ore  to  keep  the  fur- 
naces constantly  at  work  the  produce  was  not  in  pro- 
portion to  the  cost,  and  consequently  did  not  admit  of 
the  enterprise  being  carried  on. 

In  vain  were  high  freights  ofi'ered — almost  double  the 
ordinary  ones — but  no  inducement  would  attract  the 
muleteers  and  withdraw  them  from  their  accustomed 
haunts  on  the  plains.  The  industry  and  business  were 
new  in  the  country,  and  little  understood  by  the  no- 
madic and  erratic  denizens  of  the  pampa. 


103 

Nevertheless  these  obstacles  might  have  been  overcome 
by  the  coustruction  of  good  roads  and  use  of  carts,  but 
unfortunately  they  were  not  the  only  difficulties  against 
which  we  had  at  that  time  to  contend 

The  spring  of  1866  saw  the  flame  of  civil  war  and 
revolution  violently  kindled  in  the  provinces  of  Cuyo ; 
and  this  fatal  barrier  to  the  progress  of  civilization  and 
industry,  appearing  at  so  critical  a  moment,  almost 
destroyed  the  nascent  mining  industry  in  San  Juan. 

The  mines  were  abandoned  by  their  owners,  who  fled 
across  the  Andes  to  save  their  lives  and  the  little  property 
that  still  remained  to  them.  The  labourers  and  miners 
left  their  irksome  tasks  in  the  mountains,  eagerly  flying 
to  swell  the  ranks  of  the  rebels,  and  take  up  arms  against 
the  Republic ;  committing  the  vilest  excesses,  and  per- 
haps accumulating  in  one  day,  by  heartless  plunder, 
more  than  they  could  realise  in  a  life  dedicated  to  honest 
toil.  The  few  muleteers  who  remained  sought  refuge 
in  the  mountains,  concealing  their  animals  to  save  them 
from  the  general  confiscation  decreed  by  the  Vandalic 
hordes  of  the  pampas.  Under  such  a  combination  of 
disastrous  circumstances  it  was  impossible  for  a  new 
industry  to  subsist  in  the  province,  and  Hilario  had 
therefore  to  succumb  and  suspend  its  operations. 

The  mines  in  work  at  Tontal  did  not  at  the  time  of 
my  visit  exceed  five  in  all,  as,  from  the  want  of  a  ready 
and  accessible  market  for  the  realisation  of  the  ores, 
operations  in  the  district  are  not  sufficiently  remunera- 
tive to  induce  the  investment  of  capital  in  mining  enter- 
prises. 

The  mine  Senor  was  one  of  the  first  discovered  in 
Tontal,  and  has  always  yielded  good  ores,  the  general 
sample  holding  not  less  than  160  ounces  of  silver  to  the 


104 

ton,  while  the   lirst-class,  formmg  a  large  proportion, 
holds  400  ounces  to  the  ton. 

The  composition  of  these  ores  is  principally  sulpho- 
arsenides  and  antimonides.  We  also  find  argentiferous 
sulphates  and  carbonates  of  lead,  and  a  small  quantity 
of  chloride  of  silver,  or  "  warm  metals,"  but  so  mixed 
with  "  cold,"  or  plumbiferous  ores,  that  it  does  not  pay 
to  reduce  them  by  amalgamation,  being  obliged  to  resort 
to  smelting,  mixing  them  with  galenas.  The  mne  has 
been  much  and  badly  worked,  as  the  lode  is  irregularly 
broken  up  and  destroyed  at  various  parts.  The  deep- 
est working  is  about  25  fathoms  vertically,  and  the 
blende,  or  bed  of  sulphide  of  zinc,  which  makes  its 
appearance  throughout  the  whole  of  this  mining  district 
at  about  the  same  depth,  has  already  been  reached. 
This  bed  is  unproductive,  and  must  be  cut  through  in 
order  to  reach  productive  ore,  which  undoubedtly  exists 
below  it.  There  are  still,  however,  workings  on  diffe- 
rent parts  of  the  lode  from  which  very  good  ore  is 
obtained,  and,  judging  by  the  quantity  of  ore  at  sight, 
the  mine  would  seem  to  be  of  considerable  value. 

The  following  ores  were  on  the  surface,  dressed : — 
About  15  cwts.  first-class,  holding  320  ounces  per  ton; 
about  30  cwts.  of  second  class,  holding  264  ounces  per 
per  ton;  and  about  512  cwts.  of  inferior  ore  and  sweep- 
ings, holdmg  about  136  ounces  per  ton.  Their  value, 
placed  at  smelting  works,  would  be  about  £500. 

There  were  nine  miners  employed  on  this  mine. 

The  mine  Senorita  is  very  abundant  in  its  yield 
of  ore,  and  was  in  good  condition.  As  yet  the  blende 
has  not  been  touched,  the  vertical  depth  of  the  mine 
being  only  35  yards.  The  lode  is  well  formed  and 
thick,  and  in  the  year  1868  produced  70  tons  of  ore, 


105 

the  average  ley  of  the  ore  for  silver  was  about  192  ounces 
per  ton.  The  following  ores  were  on  surface,  dressed : — 
About  15  cwts.  first-class,  holdins;  400  ounces  to  the 
ton;  80  cwts.  second-class,  holding  264  ounces  per  ton; 
64  cwts.  of  course  inferior  holding  160  ounces  per 
ton;  and  500  cwts.  of  fine  sweepings  from  floorways 
holding  144  ounces  per  ton.  Their  value,  delivered  at 
smelting  furnace,  would  be  about  £390.  Six  persons 
were  employed  at  this  mine,  which,  like  the  preceding, 
belongs  to  Messrs.  Vicente,  Oros,  and  Co. 

The  mine  Dilirio  is  in  "broceo,"  or  unproductive 
workings.  It  was  formerly  very  rich  a  little  lower 
down,  yielding  ore  with  a  high  percentage  of  silver. 
The  continuation  of  the  same  lode  was  also  very  rich  at 
the  mine  Lucrecia^  whence  a  considerable  quantity 
of  ore  was  exported  to  Chili  in  the  year  1864,  holding 
2,136  ounces  per  ton.  The  working  of  the  Dilirio 
mine,  which  is  at  a  lower  level  than  the  Lucrecia^ 
is  being  carried  on  with  the  object  of  passing  the  blende. 
Only  two  labourers  and  a  foreman  Avere  occupied.  The 
mine  belongs  to  Don  Octavio  Yidela. 

The  mine  Colon  belongs  to  Don  Aniceto  Gimenez, 
an  energetic  man,  who  has  worked  his  mine  without  in- 
termission for  five  years  and  with  satisfactorj^  results. 
He  has  invested  about  £450  in  this  work,  and  employs 
eight  miners.  The  upper  portion  of  the  mine  is  pretty 
well  exhausted,  but  the  depth  to  which  the  lowest  level 
is  carried  is  very  small  indeed,  being  like  all  the  other 
mines  of  the  district.  At  present  the  workings  are 
being  carried  on  by  means  of  a  shaft  inclined  at  an  angle 
of  45  degrees,  and  the  lode  is  visible  and  well  defined 
to  a  width  of  four  feet,  with  specks  of  galena  inter- 
mixed with  blende,  marl,  and  quartz.      This  may  be 


106 

called  broceo,  but  it  is  hopeful,  as  the  lodes  show  in- 
dications of  passing  very  soon  through  the  usual  bed  of 
blende  found  all  over  the  district. 

The  quality  of  the  ore  extracted  exceeds  the 
most  sanguine  hopes,  since  it  yields  about  160  ounces 
per  ton,  and  small  particles  of  ruby  silver  ore  make  their 
appearance,  an  important  indication,  favouring  the  gene- 
ral opinion  that  good  results  and  first-class  ore  will  be 
obtained  lower  down,  once  the  bed  of  blende  is  passed. 

The  Carmen  Alto  mine  may  be  described  as  the  prin- 
cipal mine  in  the  district  of  Tontal,  having,  since  its 
first  discovery,  produced  ores  of  great  value.  It  is  a 
lode  about  two  feet  in  width,  containing  ores  of  the  two 
classes,  "cold"  and  "warm,"  holding  an  average  ley 
for  silver  of  not  less  than  200  to  216  ounces  per 
ton.  The  vein  is  visible  for  upwards  of  300  yards  in 
good  ore ;  the  greater  part  has  been  taken  from  the  sur- 
face. At  35  yards  depth  the  bed  or  zone  of  blende  has 
been  touched,  and  the  workings  pushed  on  through  it 
for  a  distance  of  30  yards,  the  lode  still  continuing  firm 
and  broader,  already  presenting  a  width  of  three  to  four 
feet.  The  body  of  the  lode  consisted  of  grey  marl,  with 
galena  disseminated  throughout,  while  the  blende  had 
almost  entirely  disappeared.  The  most  important  fea- 
ture was  the  presence  of  small  specks  of  rosicler,  or  ruby 
silver,  well  crystallized,  and  this  alone  is  sufficient 
stimulus  to  carry  on  the  workings. 

Several  samples,  containing  these  specks,  insignificant 
as  they  appeared,  yielded  456  ounces  per  ton,  but  the 
average  yield  of  the  mass  of  the  lode  was  not  over  56 
to  80  ounces. 

This  mine  is,  I  consider,  of  great  importance,  and  a 
vein  of  such  form  and  width  is  well  worth  the  trouble 


107 

and  expense  of  being  followed  to  a  greater  depth.    The 
bridges  or  pillars,  of  which  there  are  many,  are  inva- 
riably good  and  rich,  and,  if  stoped  out,  will  produce  a 
large  quantity  of  ores,  holding  an  average  of  216  ounces 
of  silver  to  the  ton. 

Thirty-two  persons  were  employed  in  this  mine, 
which  is  the  property  of  Messrs.  Ambrosio,  Caicedo  and 
Co.  I  could  obtain  no  reliable  data  as  to  the  capital 
invested,  but  believe  it  cannot  be  under  £3,500. 

These  were  the  only  mines  which  I  found  in  work  at 
the  time  of  my  visit.  There  are  at  least  100  more 
lying  idle  for  the  want  of  an  accessible  market,  but 
once  operations  at  Hilario  are  resumed,  it  is  to  be  hoped 
their  owners  will  be  stimulated  to  work  with  perseve- 
rance and  activity.  The  geological  formation  of  the 
Tontal  range  is  mostly  clay-slate,  with  mica  schist.  The 
mines  are  at  an  elevation  of  11,000  feet  above  sea  level. 

This  mining  district  is  well  supplied  with  water  and 
firewood  in  the  vicinity.  Provisions  cost :  Beef,  2d. 
per  lb.;  flour,  2Jd.  per.  lb.;  maize,  Id.  per  lb.  Freight 
to  or  from  the  city  to  the  mines  is  6s.  8d.  to  8s.  4d.  per 
mule  load  of  380  lbs. ;  to  the  establishment  at  Hilario 
from  mines,  13s.  4d.  to  20s.  per  ton;  to  La  Huerta,  £5 
per  ton ;  to  Castaiio,  30s.  per  ton.  There  is  little  pas- 
ture in  the  mines.  The  miners  are  paid  £2  per  month, 
with  maintenance,  which  latter  is  equal  to  about  25s. 
According  to  the  hardness  of  the  rock,  the  cost  per  yard, 
forward  in  adits,  is  6s.  8d.  to  16s.  8d.,  being  1^  yards 
in  breadth  and  2|  in  height.  The  labourers  receive 
from  £1  5s.   to  £1  10s.  per  month,  with  maintenance. 

Blasting  powder,  manufactured  in  Chili,  costs,  placed 
in  the  mines,  about  £2  per  cwt. ;  safety  fuse,  about  7d. 
per  coil;  iron  for  jumpers  and  crowbars,  £2  per  cwt.; 
steel  for  jumpers,  lOd.  per  pound. 


108 

AMALGAMATION  WORKS  "  SOROCAYENSE." 

From  the  mines  of  Tontal  a  wide  and  level  gully,  or 
quebrada,  leads  down  westward  to  the  important  valley 
of  "  Barrial "  and  "  Calingasta,"  which  is  watered  by  the 
Rio  de  los  Patos,  already  described.  From  the  mouth 
or  opening  of  this  quebrada,  the  amalgamation  establish- 
ment of  Sorocayense  is  situated  about  a  league  distant  to 
the  north,  at  an  elevation  of  5,694  feet  above  the  sea 
level.  Its  rather  unique  name  is  derived  from  a 
small  town  or  mining  district  in  Bolivia,  whence 
the  system  of  amalgamation  practised  there  has 
been  introduced.  The  works  consist  of  a  reverberatory 
or  roasting  furnace,  built  of  "  adobes,"  or  sun-dried 
bricks,  a  Chilian  mill  with  two  well-mounted  edge-run- 
ners, a  sieve  to  bolt  the  finely  ground  ores,  and  a  rec- 
tangular trough,  about  12  feet  long  by  4  wide,  and  4  in 
depth,  in  which  a  transverse  cylinder  moves  horizon- 
tally, by  means  of  a  shaft  and  crank  geared  on  to  the 
water  wheel,  18  feet  in  diameter  and  3  feet  breast. 
This  wheel  drives  all  the  other  machinery  as  well. 

The  system  of  reduction  is  properly  by  amalga- 
mation, but  the  crude  ores  are  previously  subjected  to 
calcination  with  common  salt,  in  order  to  chlorinise  the 
silver.  But  this  object  is  not  so  satisfactorily  attained 
as  could  be  desired,  from  the  varied  composition  of  the 
ores,  and  owing  to  the  absence  of  sulphides  in  the  furnace, 
with  which  to  effect  the  necessary  decomposition  of  the 
argentiferous  compounds. 

In  the  first  place,  the  crude  ore  is  ground  in  the 
Chilian  mill  until  fine  enough  to  pass  through  a  sieve 
with  3,600  holes  to  the  square  inch.  It  is  then  calcined 
in  a  reverberatory  furnace  at  a  very  low  heat,  and  kept 
constantly  stirred  for  the  space  of  five  to  eight  hours, 


109 

salt   being  added  from  time   to  time  until  it  reaches  a 
proportion  of  five  per  cent. 

After  eight  hours  the  charge  is  drawn,  and  is  con- 
veyed hot  to  the  rectangular  trough,  where  a  certain  pro- 
portion of  water  is  added  to  make  the  mass  into  a  thin 
paste ;  mercury  is  then  added  in  small  quantities  from 
time  to  time,  until  about  75  lbs.  to  80  lbs.  are  mixed 
with  the  ore.  The  mass  is  stirred  backwards  and  forwards 
by  the  action  of  the  revolving  cylinder  for  many  hours,  ac- 
cording to  the  class  of  ore.  When  the  "  azoguero,''  or 
foreman  m  charge,  considers  the  amalgamation  complete, 
he  adds  more  water  for  washing  off  the  tailings,  allowing 
a  small  jet  to  enter  and  an  equal  quantity  to  be  dis- 
charged through  smair  holes  at  various  heights  in  the 
trough,  until  nearly  the  whole  of  the  mass  has  been  thus 
removed ;  the  remaining  amalgam  now  contains  that  por- 
tion of  the  silver  which  was  amalgamable  in  the  ore.  This 
amalgam  (which  is  called  ^^pella")  is  then  strained  and 
squeezed  in  a  cone-shaped  bag  of  strong  canvas.  The 
greater  part  of  the  mercury  is  here  separated,  leaving  a 
residue  in  the  bag,  which,  however,  still  contains  about 
six  parts  of  mercury  for  every  one  of  silver.  Finally, 
this  amalgam  is  fired  in  iron  retorts,  the  evaporated 
mercury  being  carried  through  tubes,  whose  extremi- 
ties are  introduced  into  cold  water,  where  it  condenses, 
and  is  collected  for  future  use.  The  remaining  silver 
in  the  retorts  is  white,  porous,  and  almost  pure,  in  which 
state  it  is  sold,  or  is  melted  in  iron  or  plumbago  cru- 
cibles, and  cast  into  moulds  forming  ingots.  Its 
fineness  is  generally  represented  by  .850  to  .900  milesi- 
mos,  not  being  so  pure  as  the  silver  produced  by  cupel- 
lation  from  lead  ores. 

The  capital  invested  in  this  establishment  is  not  over 


no 

£2,500,  and  it  is  now  in  the  possession  of  Messrs.  Riera 
and  Gusto,  who  have  rented  it  for  two  years.  As  the 
system  is  rude  and  ill  suited  to  the  class  of  ores  found 
in  the  district,  the  produce  is  insignificant  and  the 
profit  less. 

Only  eight  tons  of  ore  are  reduced  in  the  month  and 
not  70  per  cent,  of  the  silver  is  obtained.  During  the 
year  only  350  marcs  of  silver  (equal  to  7.4  oz.  troy  per 
marc)  were  produced,  the  realized  value  of  which  in  San 
Juan  amounted  to  about  £650. 

Eight  men  were  employed  on  these  works. 

SMELTIITG  AND  AMALGAMATION  WORKS  AT 
HILARIO. 

Three  leagues  further  north,  in  the  same  valley,  are 
the  smelting;  and  amalo-amation  works  of  Hilario, 
founded  in  1863,  and  finished  in  the  year  1866.  It  is 
distant  about  33  leagues  westwards  of  San  Juan,  and 
48  leagues  north-north-west  of  Mendoza,  in  latitude 
31°  50'  south,  and  69°  56'  longitude  west  of  Green- 
wich. It  is  situated  at  an  elevation  of  5,624  feet 
above  the  sea  level,  and  is  the  largest  mining  and 
reduction  establishment  of  its  class  in  the  Republic. 

The  amalgamation  machinery  was  constructed  by 
Messrs.  John  Taylor  and  Sons,  of  London,  and  is  of 
first-class  Avorkmanship,  consisting  in  part  of  barrels,  on 
the  Freyberg  system,  and  partly  of  tinas  (or  vats)  on 
the  South  American  system.  The  works  are  capable 
of  reducing  ten  tons  of  crude  ore  in  twenty-four  hours. 
The  motive  power  for  this  machinery  (together  with  the 
grinding  mills)  is  a  large  turbine  ha\dng  a  fall  of  33 
feet,  the  water  passing  through  wrought-iron  tubes  re- 
presenting a  column  of  2  feet  6  inches  in  diameter.  The 
efi'ective  power  is  conputed  to  equal  95  horse. 


HI 

But  the  most  imj^ortant  part  of  the  establishment  is 
dedicated  to  smelting  and  reduction  of  ores  by  fire,  with 
the  corresponding  deposits  for  firewood,  charcoal,  fluxes, 
&c.  The  land  actually  covered  by  the  works  is  about 
12  acres,  not  including  labourers'  dwellings,  shops,  meat 
stalls,  hotel,  &c.,  which  form  a  street  outside. 

The  system  of  smelting  followed  at  Hilario  is  on  the 
whole  something  similar  to  that  of  the  ^Messrs.  Klappen- 
bach  and  Co.,  at  La  Huerta  (and  to  which  I  will  refer  fur- 
ther on),  but  the  details  are  very  diiferent.  It  is  almost 
identical  with  the  new  system  adopted  at  Pontgibaud, 
in  France,  by  Messrs.  Taylor  and  Sons,  of  London,  who 
have  now  the  direction  of  that  establishment.  The 
ores,  mixed  in  certain  proportions,  are  calcined  with 
much  care  in  a  reverberatory  furnace,  having  two  dis- 
tinct compartments,  one  for  calcination  and  the  other 
for  fusion,  thus  effecting  much  economy  in  the  use  of 
fuel.  The  ore,  thus  calcined  and  slagged,  is  smelted  in 
Castillian  blast  furnaces,  having  three  tuyeres,  and  of 
large  capacity,  since  each  furnace  can  smelt  eight  tons 
of  ore  in  the  twenty-four  hours,  consuming  about  3  tons 
of  charcoal.  Six  men  are  required  to  work  each  furnace, 
three  by  day  and  three  by  night.  The  fuel  used  in  this 
furnace  is  charcoal  made  from  retamo  and  alo^arrobo, 
which  produce  30  per  cent,  on  the  average ;  in  all  the  other 
furnaces  wood  alone  is  used.  The  blowing  machinery  is  a 
circular  fan,  five  feet  in  diameter,  which  makes  1,800 
revolutions  per  minute.  There  is  another  in  reserve  in 
case  of  accident.  The  motive  power  of  this  is  a  second 
turbine  of  25  horse  power.  The  blast  is  conveyed 
through  all  parts  of  the  establishmennt  by  means  of  sub- 
terranean canals  so  as  to  utilize  it  in  the  forges,  refining 
furnaces,  &c. 


112 

The  products  of  the  Castillian  furnaces  at  Hilario  are 
two  only,  namely,  argentiferous  lead  and  slags.  The  lead 
is  always  hard,  and  has  to  be  purified  and  softened  in  iron 
pots,  or  a  softening  furnace,  before  being  refined  by  the 
English  method,  which  is  simply  on  a  cupel,  or  test  ring, 
formed  of  bone  ash,  where  the  silver  is  obtained  pure  at 
a  single  operation.  The  bar  silver  produced  by  this 
system  is  seldom  of  inferior  ley  than  .990,  and  sometimes 
it  reaches  .995.  There  are  three  reverberatory  furnaces  in 
Hilario,  with  one  for  refining,  and  two  blast  furnaces. 
The  ore  deposits  are  capable  of  containing  1,000 
tons,  and  are  divided  into  numbered  comparments  for 
different  classes  of  ore. 

The  laboratory  for  analysis  by  the  humid  method  is 
a  complete  department  in  itself,  with  fine  assay  and 
bullion  balances. 

In  addition,  there  is  a  laboratory  for  assays  by  fire, 
with  its  row  of  miniature  furnaces,  capable  of  making 
100  assays  daily.  In  the  same  range  of  buildings  are 
the  forge,  carpenters'  shop,  &c.,  with  tools  and  imple- 
ments of  every  description,  requisite  for  repairing  any 
breakage  or  damage  done  to  the  machinery. 

There  are  extensive  deposits  for  wood  and  charcoal, 
which  are  consumed  in  large  quantities.  It  requires  great 
care  to  produce  the  latter  cheaply  and  of  good  quality. 
The  retamo  and  algarroba,  as  already  stated,  give  30  per 
cent,  of  charcoal.  It  is  made  in  mounds  in  the  open 
air,  and  sometimes  in  closed  kilns. 

The  manufacture  of  fire-bricks  also  forms  an  important 
part  of  the  operations  at  Hilario,  as  the  consumption  in 
the  furnaces  is  very  considerable,  and,  had  they  to  be  im- 
ported from  Europe  or  Chili,  the  cost  would  be  ruinous, 
each  brick  placed  in  the  establishment  costing  ls.8d., 


113 

whereas  those  made  on  the  spot,  from  refractory  clays 
obtained  in  the  neighbourhood,  only  cost  Id.  each,  and 
are  almost  as  good  as  English  bricks  for  lead  smelting. 

There  are  about  48  acres  of  good  cultivated  land,  well 
enclosed,  around  the  establishment.  This  is  under  al- 
falfa or  lucerne,  as  also  a  farm  of  240  acres,  belonging 
to  the  works,  situated  at  Calingasta,  a  distance  of  three  \ 

leagues.  '^        v 

Whilst  the  establishment  was  at  work  in  1866,  it  pro- 
duced in  ten  months  9,000  marcs  (666,000  ounces  troy) 
of  silver  and  250  tons  of  lead,  representing  a  value  of 
£23,000. 

The  prices  of  provisions  are,  more  or  less,  those  stated 
in  my  report  on  Tontal,  but  in  the  valley  of  Calin- 
gasta they  have  the  great  advantage  of  possessing  good 
pastures  in  alfalfa  or  lucerne,  and  all  the  necessaries  of  life. 

There  is  abundance  of  firewood,  which  costs  from 
10s.  to  lis.  6d.  per  perch  of  16  cubic  yards.  Wood 
charcoal  costs  2s.  per  cwt.,  delivered  in  the  establish- 
ment. Water  is  superabundant  and  of  excellent 
quality ;  the  canal  for  the  turbines  and  use  of  the  works, 
opened  from  the  Rio  de  los  Patos  to  Hilario,  is  a  league 
long  by  2  yards  in  breadth  and  IJ  in  depth. 

Capital  invested  £60,000,  in  mines,  smelting  works, 
&c. 

Crossing  the  Rio  de  los  Patos,  and  proceeding  north- 
wards on  the  road  to  the  mines  of  Castaiio,  at  a  distance 
of  about  seven  leagues,  is  situate  "  Villa  Corral,"  where 
the  Hilario  company  had  commenced  the  formation  of  a 
smelting  works.  About  60,000  cubic  yards  of  wood 
are  cut  and  piled  up  there  ready  for  use,  but  the  para- 
lyzation  of  the  affairs  of  the  Company  prevented  the 
carrying  out  of  the  project. 


114 

REDCrCTIO]^  WORKS  AT   CASTANO. 

Seven  leagues  further  north,  on  the  Rio  de  Castafio, 
and  at  the  entrance  to  the  mines  of  that  district,  are  the 
reduction  works  constructed  by  Messrs.  Babie  and  Co., 
which  are  now  stopped  and  almost  abandoned,  from 
want  of  capital  and  the  cessation  of  active  operations  at 
the  mines,  as  the  owner  only  reduces  the  ores  without 
being  himself  actually  engaged  in  mining  operations. 
It  is  constructed  exclusively  for  the  reduction  of  argen- 
tiferous lead,  on  the  same  system  as  practised  by  Messrs. 
Klappenbach.  The  works  comprise  two  blastfurnaces, 
6  feet  high  and  rectangular  in  shape ;  a  reverberatory 
furnace,  one  for  refining  on  the  German  system,  and 
another  of  smaller  size  for  purifying  the  resulting  im- 
pure silver  from  the  refining  furnace.  A  circular  fan  is 
used  to  give  blast  to  the  furnaces,  but  is  badly  con- 
structed and  geared,  and  does  not  produce  a  current  of 
air  sufficiently  strong  to  efi'ect  the  proper  reduction  of 
the  ores.  The  loss  of  the  precious  metal  must  be  con- 
siderable as  a  consequence  of  the  crude  method  of 
smelting. 

During  the  year  1868,  130  tons  of  ore  were  reduced, 
producing  12,531  ounces  of  silver,  whose  value  there 
would  be  about  £3,000.  Good  fire  bricks  are  made 
there,  composed  of  three  parts  of  a  refractory  sandstone, 
and,  to  bind  it,  one  part  of  finely  washed  earth,  formed  by 
deposits  from  the  turbid  waters  of  the  rivers  m  summer. 
They  are  made  by  dry  pressure,  and  thus,  in  their  crude 
state,  are  used  in  the  furnaces. 

About  £3,900  were  invested  at  the  begimiing  in 
these  works,  but  the  amount  expended  in  their 
actual  construction  may  be  calculated  m  about  £2,250. 
Some  days  previous  to  my  visit  (in  February)  a  torrent 


115 

from  the  mountains  at  the  rear  came  down  and  caused 
great  damage,  almost  completely  destroying  the  establish- 
ment. Operations  were  in  consequence  suspended,  but 
during  the  previous  year  22  men  had  been  employed 
there. 

Fu-ewood  is  not  abundant,  and  costs  13s.  per  perch  of 
16  cubic  yards;  charcoal  2s.  per  cwt. ;  prices  of  provi- 
sions are  the  same,  more  or  less,  as  at  the  Tontal  mines. 

The  labourers  are  paid  from  £1  13s.  4d.  to  £2  per 
month,  with  rations.  There  is  little  pasturage,  but 
plenty  of  water. 

MINING  DISTRICT  OF   CASTANO. 

This  district,  which  is  situated  two  leagues  north- 
wards of  the  reduction  works  just  described,  was 
discovered  in  the  year  1863,  and  is  of  considerable 
extent,  covering  an  area  of  at  least  100  square  miles, 
i.e.^  the  part  already  known.  Its.  ores  are  principally 
galenas,  sulphates,  and  carbonates  of  lead,  holding  a 
small  proportion  of  silver,  but  very  abundant,  since  there 
are  lodes  exceeding  9  feet  in  width,  and  visible  on  the 
surface  for  nearly  a  mile. 

There  are  many  veins  of  "  dry  "  refractory  ores,  inter- 
mixed with  galena;  these  hold  on  an  average  from  96  to 
148  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton,  and  some  over  190 
ounces. 

At  present  there  are  only  three  mines  there,  viz., 
the  Julieta^  the  Rosario^  and  the  Dos  Amigos.  The 
first  is  worked  for  dry  ores,  whose  ley  ranges  from 
58  to  74  ounces  per  ton;  the  second  for  pure  galena, 
with  only  30  ounces  to  the  ton — this  is  used  for  flux  for 
dry  ores  in  smelting ;  and  the  third  for  galena  and  dry 
ores  mixed,  with  a  ley  of  about  103  ounces.  Not  more 
than  ten  persons  are  employed  on  all  the  workings. 


116 

The  mines  not  in  work,  with  the  exception  of  the 
Bosario^  belong  to  the  Hilario  establishment,  and  are 
more  than  20  in  number,  which,  from  the  general  para- 
lyzation  of  the  enterprise,  have  been  compelled  to 
suspend  operations.  Their  lodes  are  wide  and  produc- 
tive. 

1.   San  Nicolas. — Lode  a  yard  wide,  visible  on  the 
surface  for  a  distance  of  500  yards  from  east  to  west, 
but  little  worked ;  in  argentiferous  grey  copper  ore,  rich 
in  silver  and  copper ;  ley  206  ounces ;  very  hard  to  smelt, 
being  accompanied  by  compact  black  oxide  of  manga- 
nese.    The  lode  is  only  driven  into  for  20  yards  by  two 
short  adits  on  the  vein  at  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  which 
is  7,008  feet  about  the  sea  level;  but  the  mine  itself  is 
situated  low  in  an  open  ravine  and   easy  of  access  for 
carts. 

2.  San  Ignacio. — Dry  ores,  with  galena  and  chlorides 
of  silver ;  ley  from  74  to  148  ounces  per  ton,  very  abun- 
dant ;  there  are  36  tons  of  ore  dressed  at  surface ;  lode  two 
feet  in  width,  almost  vertical,  and  visible  on  the  surface 
for  nearly  1,000  yards.  There  are  two  adits  and  some 
workings  of  little  depth. 

3.  La  Compania. — Lode  a  yard  and  a  half  wide,  and 
in  some  parts  three  yards ;  composed  of  galena  with  sul- 
phates and  carbonates  of  lead ;  very  abundant,  but  of  poor 
ley  for  silver,  holding  on  the  average  24*2  ounces  per 
ton.  The  ores  from  this  mine  are  used  as  a  flux  for  the 
reduction  of  dry  ores  from  Tontal  and  elsewhere. 
About  120  tons  dressed  on  surface.  There  is  a  spacious 
adit  driven  on  the  lode,  and  the  mine  is  only  worked 
superficially. 

4.  Sampson. — On  the  same  lode,  in  some  parts  5  yards 
wide,  and  very  abundant  in  sulphates  and  carbonates ;  of 


117 

the  same  ley  as  those  of  La  Compania.     About  30  tons 
dressed  on  surface. 

5.  La  Inglaterra. — On  the  San  Nicolas  lode,  being 
very  wide,  consisting  of  pure  galena,  of  a  ley  of  29*6  to 
44'4  ounces  silver  per  ton.  Though  of  little  depth, 
blende  has  been  already  reached. 

6.  Romeo. — On  the  lode  of  La  Julieta^  a  yard  in 
width,  consisting  of  ferrugiu'cous  ore ;  ley  only  37  ounces 
per  ton,  but  useful  at  the  furnaces  as  a  flux,  owing  to 
the  quantity  of  oxide  of  iron  it  contains;  depth  five 
fathoms. 

7.  La  Francia^  Copeton^  Dilmo,  Gran  3fogul,  La 
Pandorga,  San  Pedro  Nolasco^  cj-c. — ^The  last  named 
mine  has  yielded  some  rich  auriferous  galenas,  but  is  now 
abandoned.  All  are  more  or  less  productive,  and  would 
yield  good  returns  if  properly  worked. 

In  common  with  all  the  other  mining  districts  of  the 
Republic,  Castaiio  may  be  described  as  yet  virgin,  and 
its  hidden  riches  have  not  been  explored  as  they  ought. 

On  the  Rio  de  Castaiio,  close  to  the  mines,  a  new 
amalgamation  establishment  was  being  erected  by  Messrs. 
Ramon,  Gay  and  Co.,  consisting  of  a  grinding  mill,  with 
three  tinas  or  vats  for  amalgamation.  There  are  also 
some  dressing  tables  for  the  concentration  of  galenas 
and  cold  ores,  to  be  sold  in  that  state  to  the  smeltinir 
works.  Being  in  course  of  construction,  only  five  work- 
men were  employed,  and  in  two  months  from  the  date 
of  my  visit  (February)  the  owners  assured  me  the  works 
would  be  in  active  operation.  The  capital  invested  is 
about  £350,  and  the  mill  will  be  capable  of  reducing 
about  30  cwts.  of  ore  in  24  hours. 

Water  and  pasture  are  plentiful  in  this  district,  and 
good  roads  can  easily  be  made  between  the  mines  and 


118 

the  various  reduction  works.  The  mines  are  themselves 
situated  at  a  considerable  height  in  the  mountains,  but, 
once  the  ores  have  been  brought  down  into  the  ravines, 
the  remainder  of  the  road  is  free  of  difficulty. 

GOLD  MININ-G  DISTRICT  OF  GUALILAN".    ' 

This  celebrated  gold  mining  district  is  far-famed  and 
renowned  for  the  wonderful  quantity  of  the  precious 
metal  formerly  extracted  during  the  period  of  Spanish 
colonial  rule  in  South  America.  It  was  discovered  by 
a  muleteer,  named  Juan  Suarez,  in  the  year  1751. 
Returning  from  one  of  his  frequent  visits  to  Chili,  he 
lost  a  loaded  pack  mule  in  the  neighbourhood,  and,  on 
seeking  for  the  animal,  found  it  resting  on  the  spot  now 
occupied  by  the  Pique  mine.  To  drive  on  the  mule 
more  conveniently,  this  man  took  up  several  stones,  and 
placed  them  in  his  leathern  apron,  but  was  so  struck 
with  the  great  weight  of  one  in  particular,  that  he 
determined  to  keep  it  for  further  inspection.  On  his 
arrival  at  San  Juan  he  consulted  with  a  friend,  and  they 
discovered  the  stone  to  l^e  impregnated  with  metallic 
gold.  They  immediately  sought  out  the  place  at 
Gualilan,  and  soon  enriched  themselves  before  others 
knew  of  the  discovery.  Soon,  however,  this  became 
known,  and  hundreds  flocked  to  the  spot,  and,  after  a 
superficial  search,  discovered  many  mines,  which  yielded 
large  quantities  of  gold,  until  the  great  drawbacks 
to  all  mining  enterprises  in  South  America — water  and 
revolution — interrupted  their  prolific  labours.  The 
war  of  independence  came  on  and  all  was  abandoned. 

There  are  three  lodes,  but  only  two  were  worked. 
These  are  from  6  to  60  feet  in  width,  and  occasionally, 
when  they  join  and  are  walled  by  el  van  courses,  yield 
marvellous  quantities  of  gold.     Their  direction  is  nearly 


119 

north  and  south,  and  they  have  an  underlie  of  43"  to 
the  west,  and  are  visible  On  the  surface  for  a  length  of 
about  4,000  yards.  The  hills  in  which  they  are  situated 
are  detached  from  the  principal  chain  of  the  Tontal 
range  of  which  they  are  spurs,  and  are  composed  of 
limestone.  The  veins  are  accompanied,  and  at  parts 
traversed  by  elvan  courses,  which,  as  I  have  said,  improve 
the  yield  of  gold  where  they  come  in  contact  with  the 
lode.  There  are  14  mines  in  all  (on  the  same  veins), 
which  were  worked  with  great  energy  for  many  years 
after  their  discovery,  until,  at  a  depth  of  about  40 
fathoms,  more  or  less,  they  were  inundated  by  copious 
springs  of  water,  and  the  lower  works  had  to  be  sus- 
pended. 

The  veinstuff  extracted  from  the  lodes  is  properly 
silver  ore,  holding  chlorides  of  this  metal,  but  with  other 
combinations  which  render  it  extremely  rich  in  metallic 
gold.  There  are  large  deposits  of  arsenical  iron  pyrites, 
holding  a  fair  percentage  of  gold,  but  the  former  miners 
of  the  country  were  unable  to  extract  the  whole  amount, 
and  as  it  caused  a  considerable  loss  of  mercury  in  the 
amalgamation  process  followed,  the  greater  part  was  left 
in  the  mines,  or  thrown  aside  as  useless.  The  quantity 
of  this  refuse  ore  is  immense,  and  may  be  estimated  at 
thousands  of  tons,  intermingled  with  earth,  stone,  &c., 
but  all  of  which  holds  gold  in  the  proportion  of  not  less 
than  an  ounce  per  ton. 

After  literally  gutting  the  veins  on  the  surface,  and 
as  far  down  as  the  water  would  permit,  and  leaving  the 
workings  choked  up,  the  mines  were  abandoned  by  the 
original  owners.  Others  followed,  however,  by  whom 
new  works  were  established,  and  a  vertical  shaft  sunk  to 
about  40  fathoms  to  drain  the  mines  at  their  greatest 


120 

depth.  But  the  means  thus  employed  were  entirely 
inefficient,  and  the  mines  were  successively  abandoned 
and  renewed  by  new  adventurers,  who  expended  their 
limited  resources  and  capital  without  securing  any  re- 
turn for  their  money. 

Senor  Don  Vicente  Oros  is  the  last  who  has  under- 
taken the  task,  and,  up  to  the  present,  contends  against 
a  thousand  difficulties  and  drawbacks,  without  having 
succeeded  in  keeping  the  water  effectually  under. 
During  a  few  days  in  which  he  was  enabled  to  keep 
down  the  water  level  and  to  work  at  about  four  fathoms 
below  it  in  the  main  shaft  he  extracted  12  tons  of  ore 
from  an  old  level  or  gallery,  the  ley  of  which  for  gold 
was  5  ounces  to  the  ton ;  but  unfortunately  the  ropes  of 
the  lift  for  hoisting  out  the  water  in  buckets  broke,  and 
one  of  the  labourers  was  precipitated  into  the  shaft  and 
killed.  This  and  other  drawbacks  caused  a  suspension 
of  the  works,  while  steps  were  being  taken  for  the 
erection  of  new  appliances,  more  perfect  than  the  former 
ones.  Seiior  Oros  employed  four  men  and  a  foreman, 
working  with  four  horses  and  two  large  buckets,  geared 
on  to  a  whim,  and  in  this  way  750  gallons  of  water  per 
hour  were  taken  out;  but  this  is  of  course  inadequate, 
and  cannot  keep  down  the  water  so  as  to  admit  of 
working  in  the  lower  galleries. 

One  of  these  old  mines, — La  Misnata — not  many  years 
ago,  yielded  ores  holding  96  ounces  of  gold,  and  4,933 
ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton. 

My  attention  had  for  years  been  directed  to  this  dis- 
trict, having  assayed  its  ores  and  obtained  authentic 
information  regarding  its  produce  in  olden  times,  but  my 
time  was  too  much  occupied  with  the  mines  of  Tontal 
and  Castafio,  and  the  reduction  works  at  Hilario,  to  per- 


121 

mit  of  my  exploring  it  thoroughly.  Within  the  last 
few  months,  however,  I  have  succeeded  in  forming  a 
limited  company  in  England,  with  a  capital  of 
£75,000,  to  work  these  mines,  and  at  the  time  of  my 
visit,  I  found  there  an  English  staff  of  mining  engineers, 
with  several  European  miners,  engaged  upon  preparatory 
works  for  developing  their  resources  on  a  large  scale. 
According  to  the  last  advices  these  are  already  far  ad- 
vanced, and  14  claims  have  been  rehabilitated  by  a  single 
adit,  which  will  follow  up  the  lodes  from  south  to  north. 
An  appropriate  site  had  also  been  selected  for  the  erection 
of  extensive  reduction  works,  capable  of  grinding  and 
" beneficiating "  100  tons  of  ore  in  twenty-four  hours. 
The  motive  power  for  the  whole  will  be  a  powerful  steam 
engine,  by  means  of  which  the  old  mines  will  be  drained 
and  the  ore  raised  through  a  main  shaft  with  the  greatest 
economy. 

The  importance  of  these  works,  in  the  hands  of  an 
English  company,  can  easily  be  understood ;  for,  in  the 
event  of  good  returns  being  obtained  (of  which  I  have 
every  confidence),  they  would  probably  extend  their 
operations,  and  engage  in  new  undertakings  for  the  ex- 
ploration and  development  of  other  gold  fields  of  not 
less  importance  which  exist  in  many  of  the  provinces  of 
the  Republic. 

It  is  for  the  National  Government,  therefore,  to  do  all 
in  its  power  towards  assisting  and  protecting  the  inte- 
rests of  the  company. 

LA  IGLESIA. 

Fourteen  leagues  to  the  north  of  Gualilan  is  La 
Iglesia,  a  village  of  considerable  importance  for  its 
lucerne  fields  and  other  produce.  Messrs.  Fonseca 
Brothers  have  erected  reduction  works  there,  based  on 


122 

the  same  system  as  that  in  practice  at  Castano,  but  the 
furnaces  are  of  better  construction. 

This  establishment  had  not  been  more  than  30  days 
in  operation,  and  had  produced  1,332  ounces  of  silver. 
Its  object  is  to  reduce  ore  extracted  from  the  mining 
district  of  Salado,  whose  lodes,  it  is  said,  are  a  continu- 
ation of  those  of  Castaiio,  although  it  is  situate  30 
leagues  to  the  east. 

The  mining  district  of  Salado  was  discovered  in  the 
year  1844,  and  about  20  leagues  to  the  north  of  Iglesia, 
three  mines  are  in  work,  or,  more  correctly,  are  tem- 
porarily suspended,  since  no  ore  was  being  extracted, 
owing  (as  I  was  told)  to  the  want  of  blasting  powder. 
The  lodes  are  very  hard  and  firm,  and  not  more  than  a 
quarter  of  a  yard  in  width,  yielding  in  places  orestuff 
holding  about  493  ounces  to  the  ton;  but  the  average 
does  not  exceed  148  ounces.  About  24  tons  of  ore  of 
the  latter  ley  was  in  the  ore  yard.  Some  of  the  stones 
show  a  considerable  quantity  of  native  silver,  but  these 
are  not  frequently  found. 

Good  fire  clays  exist  near  the  reduction  works,  and  of 
which  excellent  fire  bricks  are  made ;  at  a  little  distance 
there  is  also  a  wide  vein  of  oxide  of  iron,  which  serves 
as  a  flux  in  reducing  the  galenas.  Firewood  and  water 
are  both  abundant. 

The  capital  invested  in  these  works  does  not  amount 
to  more  than  £1,000.    Fourteen  persons  were  employed. 

GOLD  MINING  DISTRICT  OF  "  GUACHI." 
At  twelve  leagues  north  of  the  town  of  Jachal,  in  the 
hiffh  rano;e  of  mountains  to  the  west,  is  situate  the  cele- 
brated  mining  district  of  Guachi.  The  road  to  this 
place  is  almost  intransitable  either  on  foot  or  horseback ; 
and  it  was  only  after  much  labour  and  danger  that  I 


123 

Avas  able  to  ascend  the  cone-shaped  mountain  where 
the  mmes  are,  and  which  is  12,200  feet  above  the  sea 
level.  The  mountain  is  isolated,  and  stands  in  the 
midst  of  a  circular  cordon  of  others  also  of  great  altitude 
and  frightfully  steep  and  rugged.  It  is  traversed  in  all 
directions  by  veins  of  auriferous  quartz,  and  horizontal 
beds  holding  more  or  less  gold. 

The  name  of  this  mountain  is  an  Indian  word,  Guachi^ 
signifying  the  mountain  of  gold ;  and  tracing  thus  the 
origin  of  Gualilan,  we  find  it  also  indicates  the 
existence  of  the  precious  metal,  as  it  means  the  "  Land 
of  gold."  The  prefix  Gua  in  the  Huarpe  tongue  signi- 
fies gold,  and  wherever  we  find  the  name  there  are  sure 
to  be  old  gold  mines  or  placer  washings,  worked  by  the 
aborigines,  and,  doubtless,  still  rich  if  modern  appliances 
were  brought  to  bear  upon  them. 

The  mines  in  Guachi  are  very  old  and  much  worked, 
and,  according  to  tradition,  a  very  large  quantity  of 
gold  has  been  taken  thence. 

The  principal  vein  runs  from  N.N.W.toS.S.E.,  and  in 
some  parts  is  30  feet,  and  in  others  60  feet  in  width,  in- 
cluding an  enormous  centre  wall  of  quartz  and  elvanite, 
which  also  contains  more  or  less  gold.  The  lode  is 
visible  on  the  surface  for  a  length  of  over  100  yards,  but 
the  works  are  choked  up  in  consequence  of  a  great  land- 
slip which  took  place  many  years  since.  This  large 
vein  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  two  others — the 
"Risco"  and  the  ''Potro" — which  in  their  turn  are 
traversed  by  veins  containing  arsenical  iron  pyrites, 
almost  at  right  angles ;  the  lode  is  in  beneficio  at  the 
points  where  these  crossings  take  place. 

From  assays  of  orestuff  taken  from  different  parts  I 
found  the  general  ley  did  not  exceed  one  ounce  to  the  ton, 


124 

Thousands  of  tons  of  ore  undoubtedly  exist  in  the  old 
subterranean  workings,  but  the  local  difficulties  present 
almost  insuperable  obstacles  to  theu-  profitable  working. 
In  the  first  place,  it  would  be  impossible  to  get  machi- 
nery to  the  foot  of  the  mountain  in  the  present  state  of 
the  roads,   and,  in  the  second  place,   there  is  neither 
wood  nor  water  at  hand  to  supply  the  requirements  of 
extensive  operations  in  the  mines,  which  are  now  almost 
entirely  abandoned.     I  only  found  four  men,  who  were 
employed  in  quarrying  stones   for  the  construction  of 
a    grinding    mill,   about  to  be  erected  by   Don  Jose 
Maria  Suarez,  with  the  intention  of  amalgamating  the 
picked  ores  from  the  old  mines. 

At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  water  is  found  in  con- 
siderable abundance,  but  is  highly  charged  with  the 
sulphates  of  copper  and  iron,  and  consequently  almost 
worthless  for  machinery,  as  the  copper  in  solution  would 
destroy  all  the  iron  work  with  which  it  might  come  in 
contact,  and  would  soon  destroy  the  wood  as  well; 
neither  is  it  potable. 

In  the  narrow  and  short  ravine  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain  are  some  placer  washings  of  more  than  average 
richness.  Here  the  fiame  earth  and  gravel  is  washed 
year  by  year  after  the  rains,  with  almost  equally  favour- 
able results.  This  proves  that  the  gold  comes  from 
some  surface  veins  above,  being  carried  down  by  the 
rains,  and  accumulates  in  the  sands  at  the  bottom  of 
the  ravine. 

The  geological  formation  of  the  mountain  is  favourable 
for  gold,  being  micha-schist,  gneiss,  and  syenite. 
Hornblende  predominates,  with  crystalized  felspathic 
rocks. 

Potable  water  is  obtained  at  a  short  distance  from 


125 

the  mines,  but  it  is  very  limited  in  (jiiantity,  and  not  of 
the  best  description. 

After  the  rains  the  poor  people  of  the  neighbourhood 
wash  the  earth  in  the  bottom  of  the  ravine,  and  some- 
times find  small  nuggets  of  gold,  and  from  this  and 
other  indications  there  would  seem  to  be  no  doubt  as  to 
the  existence  of  a  vein  or  auriferous  deposit  on  the  slope 
of  the  adjacent  Sierra,  whence  these  pieces  of  the  pre- 
cious metal  proceed. 

Despite  every  effort  to  obtain  information,  I  could 
hear  of  no  such  deposit,  nor  discover  whence  so  much 
gold  is  annually  derived. 

I  was  not  able  to  obtain  any  data  as  to  the  yearly 
production  of  gold  by  the  placer  washings. 

CARBONIFEROUS  DEPOSITS  AT  GUACO. 

Five  leagues  to  the  north-east  from  the  town  of 
Jachal  is  a  deposit  or  vein  of  coal  (lignite)  of  conside- 
rable importance.  Its  width  is  about  four  feet,  and  is 
almost  vertical ;  it  is  found  in  a  yellow  secondary  sand- 
stone formation,  at  the  foot  of  a  series  of  calcareous  hills, 
isolated,  and  of  recent  formation  and  elevation.  In  these 
limestone  rocks,  I  found  some  fossil  remains  of  ammo- 
nites, belonging  to  the  jurasic  period,  and  in  a  very 
perfect  state,  within  a  few  yards  of  the  coal  vein. 

The  following  are  the  results  of  an  analysis  of  several 
samples  of  the  coal,  whose  specific  gravity  is  1"766  : — 

Hygroscopic  moisture     5.404  per  cent. 

Volatile  combustible  matter  27.266       ,, 

Fixed  carbon  38*934       „ 

Ash      28.396       ,, 

100.000 

The  ash  principally  consists  of  silicates,  only  one  third 


126 

part  being  soluble  in  hydrochloric  acid,  and  the  solution 
contained  iron,  alumina,  and  lime. 

This  coal,  I  am  of  opinion,  will  be  found  in  great 
abundance,  and  of  much  better  quality,  further  out  in 
the  plains  of  Mogna.  The  vertical  vem  in  question, 
discovered  on  the  surface,  was  no  doubt  accidentally  up- 
heaved by  the  elevation  of  the  calcareous  mountains  in 
the  vicinity. 

I  will  allude  to  this  later  on,  when  speaking  of  the 
mines  of  La  Huerta. 

At  a  short  distance  from  the  carboniferous  deposit, 
and  on  the  roadside  from  Jachal  to  Guaco,  situated  on 
the  bank  of  a  stream  which  passes  through  the  lime- 
stone range  already  referred  to,  is  a  very  important  and 
copious  thermal  spring  of  hydro-sulphuretted  water. 
Its  temperature  is  about  80°  Fah.,  and  it  is  highly  charged 
with  hydro-sulphuric  acid  gas,  depositing  sulphur  and 
sulphide  of  calcium  on  the  neighbouring  rocks.  I  be- 
lieve this  water  to  possess  highly  medicinal  quali- 
ties, more  especially  for  cutaneous  diseases,  and  if 
once  known  and  proper  means  of  communication  are 
provided  from  the  centres  of  population,  it  will  doubt- 
less be  appreciated  and  frequented  by  thousands  of  in- 
valids. 

MINING  DISTRICT   OF    LA  HUERTA. 

About  forty  leagues  westward  from  the  capital  (San 
Juan)  are  situated  the  mines  of  La  Huerta,  which  were 
discovered  in  the  years  1860-61.  They  are  being 
worked  with  laudable  perseverance  and  energy.  The 
mountains  in  which  the  metallic  veins  are  situate  are 
high,  rugged,  and  difficult  of  transit.  Their  geological 
formation  consists  ofthe  primary  rocks,  including  gneiss, 
syenite,  and  granite,  with  serpentine  and  mica-schist. 


127 

They  form  the  termination  of  the  range  which  branches 
from  the  Cordillera  of  Guandacol,  and  not  from  those  of 
Famatina,  as  represented  in  existing  maps  of  the  coun- 
try. By  a  palpable  error,  which  has  been  confirmed  by 
the  map  of  Dr.  Martin  de  Moussy,  La  Huerta  has  been 
placed  north,  ten  degrees  to  the  west  of  San  Juan, 
whereas  it  is  actually  west  ten  degrees  north  of  that 
town.  During  my  tour  of  inspection  through  the  min- 
ing districts,  I  have  had  the  opportunity  of  correcting 
this  and  many  other  similar  errors,  which  I  will  rectify 
in  a  new  and  general  map  of  the  Republic  I  have 
now  in  preparation,  and  which  will  be  presented  to  the 
National  Government. 

The  mines  which  are  most  actively  in  work  in  the 
district  of  La  Huerta  are  as  follows  •— 

That  of  Santo  Domingo^  in  the  ravine,  or  quebrada 
of  the  same  name,  is  the  oldest  and  most  important  in 
the  district,  employing  the  largest  number  of  hands,  25 
in  all,  together  with  30  mules  and  two  muleteers. 
There  were  eight  workings  in  "  heneficio^''  and  ten  in 
"  hroceo^^^  which  were  not  yielding  productive  ore ;  the 
deepest  is  about  70  fathoms  from  the  surface.  The 
main  adit  is  pushed  into  the  mountain  for  a  distance  of 
275  yards  eastwards,  but  was  being  worked  very  badly, 
the  incline  of  the  floor  being  inward  instead  of  outward. 
Some  yards  from  the  internal  extremity  of  the  adit,  its 
course  was  altered,  in  order  to  follow  the  vein,  which 
was  there  turned  northwards  by  a  fault ;  but  this  was  a 
mistake  and  the  enterprise  has  been  prejudiced  seriously 
thereby.  Winzes  were  also  commenced,  some  working 
upwards  and  some  downwards,  but  without  either  be- 
nefit or  economy.  The  lower  ones  touched  water  at 
about  10  fathoms  from  floor  of  adit,  ^vhich  has  paralysed 


128 

further  operations  until  pumping  apparatus  be  brought 
to  bear.  It  is  a  pity  that  a  lode  so  abundant  and  rich 
as  this  should  be  thus  comparatively  sacrificed.  Every 
effort  should  be  made  to  effect  communication  with  and 
drain  the  old  workings  from  the  surface  of  the  moun- 
tain, smce  they  are,  I  am  told,  in  rich  beneficio. 
Twenty-five  fathoms  have  still  to  be  driven  before 
reaching  the  nearest  point  to  effect  this,  and  this  work 
should  be  carried  on  before  all  others  and  without  inter- 
mission. The  deepest  workings  below  the  main  adit, 
now  in  water,  are  in  good  beneficio,  and  it  is  cer- 
tainly worth  the  trouble  and  expense  to  erect  proper 
pumping  machinery  to  remove  this  obstacle,  but  this 
should  be  directed  by  competent  men,  of  which  there  is 
a  sad  lack  in  the  mine.  There  were  no  scientific  instru- 
ments in  the  mine,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  pocket 
compass,  about  an  inch  in  diameter,  intended  more  as  an 
ornamental  pendant  for  a  watch  chain  than  for  use  in 
works  of  such  importance  and  magnitude.  The  capital 
invested  in  the  mine  is  about  £21,000,  and  a  single 
"  alcance  "  or  bunch  of  rich  ore,  extracted  in  July  of 
last  year,  realised  about  £2,000.  Surely  a  mine  of  this 
class  should  have  a  competent  engineer  to  direct  the 
necessary  works,  and  the  owners  would  then  very  soon 
secure  those  profitable  returns  which  they  have  hitherto 
looked  for  in  vain. 

The  actual  produce  is  about  15  tons  of  ore  per  month, 
holding  not  less  than  518  ounces  of  silver  per  ton  in 
pure  galena.  About  30  tons  of  this  class  were  on  the 
surface,  and  more  than  300  tons  of  inferior  ore  had 
been  accumulated,  holding  from  111  to  148  ounces, 
which  might  be  utilized  if  properly  dressed  and  concen- 
trated.    The  existing  machinery  there  is  not,  however, 


129 

sufficient  for  this  purpose.  There  are  two  cast-iron 
edge  runners,  well  suited  for  grinding  the  ores,  and  with 
these,  and  the  round  huddle,  or  percussion  tables  and 
jigging  machines,  a  fair  profit  might  be  made  out  of  this 
poor  veinstuff.  The  ores  extracted  from  the  upx^er 
workings  (not  yet  in  communication  with  the  adit)  are 
galenas,  with  sulphides  and  antimonides  of  silver,  while 
specks  and  thin  lamina  of  native  silver  are  occasionally 
observed.  Two  pieces  of  ore  were  recently  taken  out 
(and  which  will  be  sent  to  the  Cordoba  exhibition), 
weighing  respectively  375  lbs.  and  175  lbs.,  holding  970 
ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton. 

The  monthly  cost  or  disbursements  for  work  in  the 
mine  are  about  £110. 

The  reduction  works  belonging  to  the  owners  of  this 
mine  are  not  in  operation  and  may  be  considered  as 
almost  abandoned,  the  furnaces  being  in  such  a  dilapi- 
dated condition  as  to  be  useless  for  the  treatment  of  ore 
without  complete  renovation.  There  are  about  150  tons 
of  slag  on  the  ground,  containing  25  per  cent,  of  lead, 
with  17*26  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton.  The  site  is 
good,  but  there  is  no  probability  of  the  re-establishment 
of  the  works  so  long  as  Messrs.  Klappenbach  reduce 
and  purchase  the  ores  extracted  from  the  mine, — an 
arrangement  advantageous  for  both  jDarties. 

The   Providencia    and   Petorca    mines  are    situated 
in  the  ravine  of  El  Senor,  and  though  not  very  produc- 
tive, are  worked  to  a  profit  owing  to  the  high  ley  of 
their  ores.     This,  on  the  average,  is  1233 '33  ounces  of 
silver  to  the  ton     Four  men  are  employed. 

The  San  Antonio  mine  is  situated  in  the  ravine  of 
"  Los  Tres  Amigos,"  and  is  fairly  productive  in  go  od 
ore,  composed  of  galena,  with  some  chlorides  of  silve  r. 
The  average  ley  is  616*66  ounces  to  the  ton. 


130 

The  Bella  Isaura  mine  is  the  property  of  Messrs. 
■  Yanzi  and  Co.,  and  is  located  in  the  ravine  Argen- 
tina. It  is  exceedingly  prolific  of  ore,  being  upon  the 
junction  of  several  lodes,  which  at  some  parts  reach  a 
width  of  eight  yards.  It  is  very  inadequately  worked, 
only  three  men  and  a  foreman  being  employed.  Never- 
theless these  are  sufficient  to  extract  from  six  to  nine 
tons  of  ore  in  the  month,  consisting  of  galena,  with 
carbonates  and  sulphates  of  lead,  holding  on  the  average 
from  47  to  54  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton.  About  120 
tons  were  dressed  on  the  surface,  containing  about  44 
ounces  to  the  ton. 

The  Mercedes  mine  belongs  to  the  San  Juan  Min- 
ing and  Reduction  Company,  and  is  situated  in  the 
ravine  of  San  Pedro.  The  vein  is  visible  for  over 
3,000  feet,  and  the  whole  is  in  beneficio;  its  width  is  a 
yard  and  a  half,  but  the  ore,  in  pure  galena,  does  not 
exceed  six  inches,  holding  about  207  ounces  of  silver  to 
the  ton.  Formerly  it  was  not  worked  very  energetically, 
only  some  three  men  having  been  employed,  who  raised 
from  three  to  six  tons  per  month.  At  the  date  of  my 
visit,  however,  operations  at  this  mine  were  carried  on 
upon  a  much  more  important  scale,  the  following  per- 
sons being  employed,  viz. :  1  manager,  1  foreman,  1 
blacksmith,  10  miners,  10  labourers,  and  1  cook.  There 
were  also  seven  mules.  The  water  for  domestic  use  is 
from  a  well  sunk  in  the  ravine  and  is  brackish.  A 
capital  of  about  £1,000  has  been  a23propriated  for  the 
completion  of  an  adit,  under  the  superintendence  of 
Mr.  J.  C.  Rogers,  an  intelligent  North- American,  who 
has  had  much  experience  as  a  miner  in  Mexico. 

In  this  same  ravine  are  some  fine  lodes  of  hematite 
iron  ore,  from  two  to  three  metres  in  width,  in  which 
pieces  of  silver  ore  have  been  found  of  the  ley  of  1,233 


131 

to  1,480  ounces  to  the  ton.     These  lodes  are  visible  on 
the  surface  for  about  a  leaofue. 

The  mine  Dolores  is  located  in  the  ravine  of  Los 
Poronguitos ;  it  is  a  very  good  lode,  consisting  of  pure 
galena  with  sulphides  of  silver,  and  the  average  ley  of 
the  ore  is  202  ounces  to  the  ton.  Two  miners  were 
employed  in  making  a  survey. 

The  Muy  Escasa  mine  is  located  in  the  ravine  of  El 
Quebrachito.  Four  men  were  employed;  and  from 
three  to  six  tons  of  ore  were  raised  monthly,  consisting 
generally  of  sulphides  and  chlorides  of  silver,  with  a  ley 
of  183  ounces  to  the  ton. 

The  Carlota  mine  is  in  the  same  ravine  as  the  pre- 
ceding; the  class  of  ore  is  similar,  and  three  miners 
were  employed. 

The  Reyes^  Baltazar^  and  Oriente  mines  are  situated 
in  the  ravine  of  Baltazar;  very  few  workmen  were 
employed,  just  sufficient  in  fact  to  keep  them  open. 
The  three  mines  are  upon  the  same  lode,  the  ores  from 
which  hold  about  98  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton.  The 
'vein  is  laid  bare  to  a  depth  of  25  to  30  fathoms,  and 
is  of  a  very  promising  character.  On  several  occasions 
stones  have  been  found  with  particles  of  native  silver. 
These  mines  have  been  most  irregularly  worked  and 
destroyed  on  the  surface  by  the  pirquineros^  or  erratic 
miners. 

The  Blanca,  La  Paz,  and  Marsellesa  mines  are  located 
in  the  ravines  of  Rosarito  and  Baltazar.  They  abound 
in  galenas,  with  a  ley  of  about  74  to  86  ounces  of  silver 
to  the  ton.  Very  few  men  were  employed,  and  do  little 
more  than  keep  the  mines  open. 

The  Bosarito  mine  is  in  the  ravine  of  the  same  name. 
It  produces  from  15  to  18  tons  of  ore  per  month,  princi- 


132 

pally  galena,  sulphides,  and  chlorides,  with  some  native 
silver.  The  average  ley  is  160  ounces  to  the  ton.  About 
nine  tons  were  on  the  surface.  Twenty-three  men  were 
employed.  There  is  an  adit  from  surface  in  communica- 
tion Avith  a  shaft  inclined  at  an  angle  of  40  degrees.  This 
mine  has  produced  some  specimens  of  ore  very  similar 
to  that  extracted  from  the  best  mines  of  Chaiiarcillo 
(Chili).  The  works  at  the  time  of  my  visit  were  in  full 
activity.  In  the  lowest  levels  the  lode  had  narrowed 
almost  to  nothing,  and  the  surrounding  rock  was  so  hard 
as  to  make  progress  very  slow  indeed. 

The  Celestina  and  Parana  mines  are  on  the  same  vein ; 
eight  miners  and  two  labourers  are  employed,  and  the 
ores  are  very  similar  to  those  extracted  from  the  pre- 
ceding mine.  There  were  21  tons  of  ore  on  the  surface, 
holdino-  about  197  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton. 

The  above  are  the  principal  mines,  but  there  are 
numerous  others  of  less  importance,  but  which  show  the 
extension  of  the  veins,  their  direction,  and  the  quality 
of  their  ores.  It  is  calculated  that  there  are  120  pirqui- 
neros^  or  erratic  miners,  in  Los  Marayes,  and  100  more 
about  La  Huerta  and  Santo  Domingo. 
COPPER  ORES. 

I  have  received  several  specimens  of  these  from 
veins  existing  in  this  district.  Upon  assaying,  I  have 
found  them  to  contain  from  25  to  65  per  cent,  of  copper. 
In  some,  native  copper  Avas  observable,  but  up  to 
the  present  the  lodes  have  not  been  discovered, 
or  explored,  the  stones  assayed  having  been  only  de- 
tatched  masses  found  in  the  ravines.  This  branch  of 
mining  industry,  when  more  facile  means  of  transport 
are  provided,  will  give  great  impulse  to  the  prosperity 
of  the  province. 


133 

In  the  Cerro  Morado,  further  to  the  west,  the  old 
auriferous  quartz  veins  are  all  degenerated  and  firm  in 
copper  ores  of  good  ley,  which  are  certain  to  be  utilized 
later  on. 

There  are  many  fine  lodes  of  galena  in  the  district  as 
yet  unworked,  because  their  ley  is  not  high,  but  which 
later  on  are  also  sure  to  be  utilized ;  therefore  no  doubt 
as  to  the  duration  of  the  mines  and  analogous  indus- 
tries in  La  Huerta  need  be  entertained. 

COAL  DEPOSITS. 

The  coal  extracted  near  the  Marayes  is  of  good  quality, 
and  the  deposits,  as  far  as  I  could  judge,  are  of  con- 
siderable extent,  covering  a  surface  of  many  leagues. 
Explorations  have  not  been  carried  to  a  depth  of  more 
than  ten  feet,  owing  to  the  influx  of  water  and  the  want 
of  proper  appliances  for  expelling  it  and  sinking  a  deeper 
shaft.  Still,  judging  by  what  is  actually  visible,  it  is 
not  diflScult  to  infer  how  very  important  these  deposits, 
at  present  useless  as  a  source  of  wealth,  will,  with  the 
lapse  of  time,  eventually  become. 

I  have  said  useless  for  the  present,  because  few  in  the 
country  are  competent  to  form  an  exact  idea  of  their 
real  value  and  importance.  Previous  Governments  have 
either  neglected  or  not  had  the  desire  or  the  power  to 
assist  explorers  in  this  field  of  national  wealth,  nor  be- 
stow upon  it  the  attention  it  deserved.  The  Paraguayan 
war,  and  other  obstacles,  have,  moreover,  interfered 
with  the  action  of  the  Government  in  fields  of  enter- 
prise for  whose  development  peace  and  tranquillity  are 
necessary.  Ever  since  the  year  1862, 1  have  not  ceased 
to  direct  the  attention  of  the  National  Government  to 
this  branch  of  industry,  which  might  if  properly  fostered 


134 

make  the  Argentine  Republic  become  the  England  of 
South  America. 

This  is  no  idle  illusion  nor  dream  of  the  sanguine  miner, 
but  a  conclusion  based  on  my  own  experience,  and  in 
harmony  with  the  results  obtained  in  other  South  Ame- 
rican countries.  I  am  acquainted  with  the  almost  super- 
human efforts  of  Mr.  Wheelwright,  our  great  pioneer  of 
progress  in  railways,  how  whilst  engaged  in  inaugurating 
steam  navigation  on  the  Pacific,  he  sought  almost  in 
vain  to  make  the  Government  and  people  of  Chih  under- 
stand that  their  coal  deposits  in  Lota  and  Coronel  were 
more  valuable  to  them  as  a  nation  than  the  richest  silver 
mines  in  Capiapo.  Eventually  awakened  to  the  truth, 
our  transandine  neighbours  have  done  everything  in 
their  power  to  develop  those  coal  fields ;  and  the  result 
is,  that  hundreds  of  thousands  of  tons  are  now  annually 
consumed  in  their  smelting  works,  on  their  railways, 
and  in  their  steamers,  and  of  a  quality  but  very  little 
superior  to  that  of  Los  Marayes  in  San  Juan. 

It  has  been  generally  taken  for  granted  that  our  coal 
deposits  in  the  Argentine  Republic  were  of  insignificant 
extent ;  but  this  is  erroneous,  as  the  result  of  my  explo- 
rations will  prove.  I  can  confidently  assert  that  coal 
exists,  not  only  in  Los  Marayes  and  La  Huerta,  but 
certainly  from  Jachal  to  Los  Llanos,  and  possibly  as  far 
as  the  city  of  Cordoba  itself.  I  am  well  acquainted  with 
the  whole  of  the  territory  indicated ;  I  have  traversed  it 
in  various  parts,  and  on  each  occasion  my  convictions 
have  been  confirmed.  On  the  slope  of  the  Cordillera, 
at  five  leagues  from  Jachal,  as  I  have  already  stated  in 
speaking  of  those  regions,  I  discovered  coal  (lignite)  on 
the  surface,  and  (as  shown  by  the  analysis  previously 
inserted)  of  a  very  fair  quality,  especially  when  it  is  con- 


135 

sidered  that  the  specimens  analysed  were  only  from  the 
surface.  Afterwards,  I  proceeded  to  the  Sierra  of  La 
Huerta,  northwards  towards  La  Eioja,  a  distance 
of  90  miles,  where  I  found  the  geological  formation  to 
be  identical,  thus  confirming  all  the  hopes  and  opinions 
I  had  long  entertained  on  the  subject.  In  Los  Marayes 
the  same  geological  formation  (sandstone  and  shales)  is 
also  observable,  with  its  characteristic  fossils,  which  are 
the  guiding  stars  to  geologists  in  explorations  of  this  nature. 

From  Marayes  I  crossed  eastwards  to  the  Sierra  of  Los 
Llanos,  a  distance  of  40  miles,  afterwards  throuo'h 
Chepes,  Salana,  Ulapes,  &c.,  and,  as  I  had  expected, 
found  there  the  same  indications,  the  same  fossils,  and 
the  same  geological  formation.  I  have  collected  speci- 
mens of  all  these  for  examination  at  the  forthcomino- 
Cordoba  Exhibition,  and  which  will  prove  to  those  who 
understand  it  that  true  coal  exists  in  the  Argentine  Re- 
public. 

It  is,  therefore,  for  the  National  Government  to  aid 
in  utilizing  this  important  discovery,  and  not  allow  it  to 
rest  in  oblivion,  as  many  others  have  been  left  for  years. 
We  have  boring  apparatus,  and  the  men  necessary  to 
accomplish  this  great  work — a  work  of  infinite  impor- 
tance for  the  regeneration  of  the  Republic. 

The  Central  Argentine  Railway  to  Cordoba  will 
shortly  be  finished  and  opened  to  the  public,  audit  is  to 
be  hoped  that  the  line  will  be  very  soon  extended  to  the 
northern  provinces.  How  important  it  would  be  if  the 
Government  could  ofi'er  to  the  initiators  of  this  grand 
enterprise  a  newly-discovered  coal  field  alongside  the 
iron  track.  And  even  supposing  that  coal  is  only  to  be 
found  at  Chepes,  in  Los  Llanos  (where  I  am  sure  it 
exists),  this  would  be  a  sufficient  inducement  to  make 


136 

a  branch  line  of  railway  to  those  now  uncultivated 
wastes,  thereby  putting  an  end  for  ever  to  the  domination 
of  the  guacho  and  the  unsettled  habits  of  the  rural 
population ;  such  a  course  would  render  revolution  al- 
most impossible,  and  remedy  those  evils  which,  up  to 
the  present,  have  so  seriously  retarded  the  progress  and 
development  of  those  regions. 

The  consumption  of  this  class  of  coal  would  be  in- 
credible, and  a  source  of  great  profit  to  the  Central 
Argentine  Railway  Company.  The  latter  is  bound  to 
populate  the  immense  territory  conceded  to  it  along  the 
whole  length  of  its  track.  In  many  parts  of  this  no  fuel 
exists  even  for  the  domestic  requirements  of  the  future 
inhabitants ;  while  the  cities  of  Cordoba,  Rosario,  and 
even  Buenos  Ayres,  with  their  gas  works,  their  manufac- 
tories, and  their  numerous  steamers,  would  consume  more 
than  the  waggons  could  convey.  The  coal  is  well 
adapted  for  those  purposes,  being  what  is  called  in 
England  "caking "or  "binding"  coal. 

Its  composition  is  as  follows  : — 

Hygroscopic  moisture 1.57  percent. 

Volatile  combustible  matter    39-8o       „ 

Fixed  carbon    36.20       „ 

Ash    22.43       „ 

100.00 

It  should  be  stated  that  this  specimen  is  almost  from 
the  surface.  I  believe  that  coal  of  a  better  bituminous 
class  will  be  found  at  depth,  and,  at  a  still  greater  depth, 
coal  properly  belonging  to  the  secondary  era,  and  per- 
haps antracite.  The  ammonites  found  in  Jachal  lead  me 
tp  conclude  that  such  will  be  the  case. 

In  addition  to  the  sources  of  consumption  indicated 
above,  there  are  others  still  more  important  for  the 


137 

country.  1  have  before  referred  to  the  immense  lodes 
of  oxide  of  iron  situate  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood 
of  Los  Marayes.  Almost  inexhaustible  quantities  of 
this  ore  exist  in  the  Cerros  of  La  Huerta,  and  if,  at  some 
future  time,  iron  smelting  furnaces  be  erected  there,  it 
seems  almost  impossible  to  exaggerate  the  importance  of 
the  results  which  would  follow. 

It  is  out  of  my  province  to  specify  the  advantages,  or 
enumerate  the  various  industries  to  which  the  develop- 
ment of  our  vast  carboniferous  and  ferrugineous  resour- 
ces would  give  birth.  But  we  have  only  to  look  to 
England,  and  ask  to  what  she  owes  her  commercial 
greatness,  and  maritime  supremacy?  The  answer  is 
simply, — "  To  her  iron  and  her  coal." 

REDUCTION"  WORKS  "  EL  ARGENTmO." 
This  estabHshment  belongs  to  a  Hmited  company, 
formed  in  1868,  by  Messrs.  Klappenbach,  of  Buenos 
Ayres,  for  the  working  of  mines  and  the  reduction  of 
ores  in  San  Juan.  It  is  situated  in  the  quebrada,  or 
valley  of  La  Huerta,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  mines, 
and  was  in  course  of  construction  from  1865  to  1868. 
It  is  now  in  full  activity,  and  receives  all  the  ores  which 
are  extracted  from  the  mines  of  the  district.  For  their 
reduction  and  treatment  it  has  two  reverberatory  fur- 
naces, five  blast  furnaces,  and  one  refininof  furnace, 
capable  of  reducing  from  2 J  to  SJtons  of  ore  per  diem. 
The  following  statement,  showing  the  ores  received  and 
reduced  up  to  the  1st  of  April,  1869,  will  furnish  some 
idea  of  its  importance  : —  ' 

Ore  Reduced.  Ounces  of  Silver. 

In  1865  (five  months) 158,8391b  containing  21157.022 

»  1866    496,455  „  47108.474 

»  1867     636,489  „  56094.590 

»   1868     752,280  „  77144.016 

„  1869  (three  months)  ...207,629  „  19196.858 

Total 2,246,6928)  „         220700.960 

R 


138 

The  following  further  statement  shows  the  product  in 
bar  silver : — 

In  1865  (five  months)  ...   10700.4  ounces,  value  ^2651     o     o 

„  1866 35342.4       »  „  8756     o     o 

„  1867 45887-4       „  „         11368   10     o 

,,  1868 63455.0       „  „        15720  16     8 

„  1869 15267.2       „  „  3782     3     4 

Stock,  April  T,  1869 39973.86 

^^32,278   10     o 

210626.26 
Add  for  loss  by  vola-  )  ^    ^ 

tilization.  /•••   '°°74.7o 

Total 2  207  00.96 

Seventy-nine  persons  were  employed,  at  a  cost  of 
£250  per  month,  not  including  the  mines  and  agencies 
of  the  company. 

The  labourers  are  paid  from  £1  13s.  4d.  to  £3  per 
month,  and  firewood  costs  from  lis.  8d.  to  13s.  4d.  for 
about  2Jjtons  weight. 

Flour  is  16s.  8d.  to  20s. ;  raisins,  13s.  4d.  to  16s.  8d.; 
maize,  10s.   to  13s.  4d. ;  and  beef  20s.  per  cwt.     The 
daily  rations  of  the  labourers  consist  of  one  pound  of 
beef,  one  of  flour,  one  of  maize,  and  one  of  raisms. 

The  system  of  treatment  and  reduction  of  ores  in  prac- 
tice is  as  follows  : — 

Fu'st  operation, — Calcination.  Each  charge  consists  of 
18  cwts.,  made  up  of  12  cwts.  galena  (Pb.S.)  holding 
60  per  cent,  lead  and  93  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton; 
6  cwts.  "  dry  "  ores,  holding  15  per  cent,  lead  and  186 
ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton.  This  operation  lasts  eight 
hours,  the  ore  being  calcined  at  a  very  low  heat  until 
the  charge  is  desulphurised.  It  is  then  drawn  from  the 
furnace,  and  allowed  to  cool  before  passing  through  the 
second  operation. 

Second  operation, — Slagging.  The  charge  of  calcined 
ore,  18  cwts.,  now  converted  into  oxides  of  the  metal 


189 

present,  with  a  little  sulphate  of  lead,  is  thrown  into  an 
ordinary  reverberatory  furnace,  and  fired  sharply  for 
from  four  to  six  hours,  until  the  whole  mass  is  in  a 
thoroughly  liquid  state,  when  it  is  tapped  by  a  door  at 
the  back  of  the  furnace ;  the  result  consists  of  silicates 
and  oxides  of  lead,  in  which  condition  it  is  in  readiness 
for  the  next  operation. 

Third  operation, — Reduction.  This  operation  is 
effected  in  vertical  rectangular  blast  furnaces,  measuring 
1""  60'  in  height  from  the  tuyere  to  the  charging  door, 
and  0"^  QO'  broad,  by  0"™  90'^  in  depth  from  breast  to  back, 
being  more  or  less  equal  in  size  to  the  furnaces  used  in 
Viales,  and  formerly  at  Pontgibaud,  Puy  de  Dome 
(France).  The  mixture  for  this  furnace  consists  of  77 
per  cent,  of  the  slagged  ores  of  the  second  operation, 
holding  50  per  cent,  of  lead  and  123  ounces  of  silver  to 
the  ton;  oxide  of  iron  is  added  in  the  proportion  of  18 
per  cent.,  together  with  5  per  cent,  of  limestone.  Of 
this  mixture  about  2^  tons  pass  through  a  furnace  in 
the  24  hours,  producing  9  cwts.  of  rich  lead,  holding 
from  2i  to  2^  per  cent,  of  silver.  A  small  proportion 
of  regulus  and  dross  is  also  produced,  and  of  course  a 
large  proportion  of  rich  slags. 

Fourth  operation, — Cupellation.  The  German  or 
Continental  system  (in  contradistinction  to  the  English 
system)  is  that  used  at  La  Huerta.  The  furnace  is 
charged  cold,  with  the  lead  in  pigs,  from  the  third 
operation,  and  is  gradually  fired,  until  the  charge 
reaches  a  red  heat.  The  fused  mass  is  thus  oxidised 
and  impurities  begin  to  rise  to  the  surface,  i.e.,  copper, 
zinc,  iron,  antimony  arsenic,  sulphur,  &c.,  which  sub- 
stances are  drawn  off  by  a  slit  cut  into  the  bottom  of 
the  furnace,  and  form  the  abstrich  of  the  Germans. 


140 

When  all  these  impurities  are  removed,  litharge  pro- 
per, or  pure  oxide  of  lead,  soon  begins  to  form  on  the 
surface  of  the  bath,  and  the  temperature  being  increased 
to  a  red-white  heat  by  means  of  a  bellows,  true  cupella- 
tion  commences.  This  operation  continues,  with  the 
addition  of  fresh  lead  in  pigs  from  the  third  operation, 
until  the  whole  chars^e  is  worked  off  and  oxidised,  when 
the  impure  silver  remains  in  a  circular  plate  on  the 
bottom  of  the  furnace.  When  cool  the  plate  is  removed 
to  be  further  treated. 

Fifth  operation, — Refining.  This  consists  in  sub- 
mitting the  impure  silver  from  last  operation  to  cupella- 
tion  on  a  fine  bone  ash  test,  beaten  into  the  bottom  of 
a  circular  refining  furnace  about  3  feet  in  diameter. 
This  absorbs  nearly  all  the  impurities — lead,  iron,  cop- 
per, &c. — with  which  the  silver  was  previously  contami- 
nated. The  conclusion  of  this  operation  is  known  by 
the  quiescent  aud  bright  surface — like  that  of  a  mirror — 
presented  by  the  liquid  silver.  This  is  then  allowed  to 
cool,  Avhen  it  is  removed  from  the  furnace,  and  is  thus 
sent  to  market  without  further  refining. 

The  slags  produced  in  the  third  stage  are  returned  to 
the  furnace,  either  alone  or  with  ore,  as  they  generally 
hold  25  per  cent,  of  lead  and  18-2  to  23-6  ounces  of  silver 
to  the  ton.  The  lead  in  the  slags  exists  almost  entirely 
as  a  silicate,  and  is  reduced  with  oxide  of  iron  and  crude 
limestone. 

The  abstrich  and  litharge,  holding  a  small  percentage 
of  silver,  produced  at  the  commencement  and  the  ter- 
mination of  the  fourth  operation,  are  generally  passed 
through  with  slags  and  regulus  in  the  third  operation 
in  the  blast  furnace.  The  litharge  proper  is  reduced 
to  metalHc  lead  on  the  Scotch  hearth ;  the  lead  thus 
produced  holds  from  3  to  4  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton. 


141 

The  fuel  consumed  in  these  different  operations  is  as 
follows  : — In  the  first  and  second  about  2  J  tons  of  ore 
are  calcined  and  slagged  in  24  hours,  with  two  tons  of 
wood,  or  say  73  per  cent,  of  fuel.  In  the  third  1|  tons 
of  slagged  ore,  or  say  2^  tons  including  fluxes,  are  reduced 
in  24  hours,  with  6*75  cwts.  of  charcoal,  or  15  per  cent., 
and  6*75  cwts.  of  firewood,  or  other  15  per  cent.,  making 
altogether  30  per  cent.  In  the  fourth  2  J  tons  of  wood 
are  consumed  to  cupel  more  or  less  7  tons  of  lead,  or  33 
per  cent,  of  fuel.  In  the  fifth  1  cwt.  of  firewood  is  con- 
sumed for  every  740  ounces  of  silver.  The  duration  of 
the  blast  furnaces,  i.e.^  of  the  parts  exposed  to  the  direct 
action  of  the  fire,  and  which  are  lined  with  fire-bricks,  is 
on  the  average  15  days.  Their  bottoms  or  hearths  con- 
sist of  1  part  of  lime,  J  of  ground  charcoal,  and  2  J  of 
clay — all  well  mixed  together,  and  tightly  rammed. 

The  bottoms  of  the  reverberatory  or  slagging  furnaces 
last  from  three  to  six  months,  and  are  composed  of  1 
part  of  lime  and  1  of  clay. 

Four  men  work  each  blast  furnace,  two  durino-  the 
day  and  two  during  the  night ;  and  six  men  in  all  are 
employed  in  attending  the  reverberatory  furnaces,  the 
shifts  being  taken  by  two  at  a  time,  who  are  in  turn 
relieved  by  the  others  at  intervals  of  eight  hours. 

The  slags,  even  when  smelted  again  and  thrown  aside, 
always  hold  from  15  to  18  per  cent,  of  lead,  and  about 
three  ounces  of  silver  per  ton. 

The  bottom  of  the  cupelling  furnace  is  composed  of 
4  parts  of  lime  and  1  part  of  clay,  well  rammed  in,  little 
by  little,  and  allowed  to  set  and  dry  thoroughly,  in  order 
to  avoid  crackino^  and  rising-. 

The  average  ley  of  the  ores  reduced  in  the  establish- 
ment is  about  23b  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton,  and  50  per 


142 

cent,  of  lead.  It  is  calculated  that  12  per  cent,  of  lead 
is  volatilised  and  lost  in  the  different  operations,  and  15 
to  18  per  cent,  remains  in  the  rejected  slags;  it  is  esti- 
mated about  3  to  6  ounces  of  silver  per  ton  are  thus  also 
lost. 

These  details  and  data  were  furnished  to  me  by  the 
agent  of  the  company,  and  are  exact  as  respects  the 
system  in  practice  at  the  establishment. 

The  commercial  results  of  the  enterprise  are,  I  have 
been  assured,  of  a  very  satisfactory  character,  as  is 
proved  by  the  rapid  extension  of  the  works,  both  at  the 
mines  and  in  the  reduction  establishment,  notwithstand- 
ing many  local  difficulties  and  drawbacks,  the  principal 
of  these  being  the  want  of  motive  power  to  give  suffi- 
cient blast  to  the  furnaces,  as  the  bellows  at  present  in 
use,  moved  by  mules,  are  quite  inadequate,  and  are 
besides  very  inconstant,  from  the  carelessness  of  the 
labourers,  more  especially  at  night. 

In  reference  to  the  roads  and  means  of  communication 
in  this  province — a  matter  of  vital  consequence,  not 
only  to  the  mining  industry,  but  to  the  general  com- 
mercial prosperity  of  San  Juan — I  may  state  that  few 
or  no  roads  exist  between  the  mining  districts,  nor  are 
there  any  facilities  for  reaching  the  highways  connecting 
those  parts  of  the  Republic  with  the  lower  provinces. 

Everything  has  to  be  carried  on  muleback,  at  exor- 
bitant rates  of  freight ;  but  this  last  is  not  so  serious  a 
drawback  as  the  impossibility  of  transporting  ponderous 
machinery  and  implements  to  the  mines  and  reduction 
establishments.  From  this  very  cause  many  important 
enterprises  have  already  failed  in  San  Juan,  and  this 
will  continue  to  be  the  case  so  long  as  there  are  no  car- 
riage roads  to  facilitate  transit. 


143 

I  have  had  personal  experience  in  this  sense,  having 
been  compelled,  in  conveying  machinery  and  tools  to 
the  reduction  works  at  Hilario,  to  make  a  temporary 
road  of  70  leagues,  only  transitable  perhaps  once  or 
twice  by  our  own  carts,  and  this  by  taking  an  immense 
circuit  to  reach  a  point  within  a  distance  of  18  leagues 
in  a  direct  line  from  the  capital. 

The  cost  of  carrying  the  machinery  from  San  Juan, 
exceeded  that  from  England  to  San  Juan.  The  large 
sums  thus  invested  in  road-makino-  and  freig-hts  might 
have  been  applied  with  great  advantage  to  the  develop- 
ment of  mmes  and  of  districts  still  unexplored,  and 
when  a  fixed  sum  alone  is  available  for  such  operations, 
it  is  a  serious  drawback  to  be  obliged  to  expend  so  con- 
siderable a  portion  in  works  leaving  no  immediate  profit 
to  the  miner,  and  which  ought  to  be  executed  by  the 
government  authorities. 

It  is  therefore  of  cardinal  importance  to  make  a  car- 
riage road  from  San  Juan  to  the  valley  of  Barrial  and 
C  alingasta,  which  would  accommodate  the  traflic  by  the 
road  from  Los  Patos  to  Chili,  and  materially  stimulate 
mining  industry  in  Tontal  and  its  neighbourhood. 

From  Barrial  and  Calingasta  the  construction  of  a 
road  northwards  to  Castaiio  would  be  easy  and  inexpen- 
sive, and  would  accommodate  the  public  traffic  as  far  as 
Iglesia  and  Jachal.  On  the  other  hand,  there  is  no 
difficulty  in  placing  these  points  in  contact  with  Us- 
pallata  and  Mendoza,  by  making  a  road  through  the 
extensive  plains  of  Leoncito  and  Yalguaras.  I 
am  informed  that  the  National  Government  intends 
making  the  highway  already  decreed  through  Los  Patos 
to  the  Chilian  frontier ;  and  once  this  is  done,  the  chief 
expense  will  have  been  incurred,  since  the  cost  of  the 


144 

others,  between  Tontal,  Calingasta,  Castano,  Leoncito, 
and  Uspallata,  will  not  much  exceed  £6,000,  the  total 
distance  being  about  57  leagues, — that  is,  to  join  with 
the  road  from  Mendoza  to  Uspallata,  recommended  in 
my  report  upon  that  province. 

The  roads  from  San  Juan  to  the  mining  district  of 
La  Huerta  are  rather  better,  and  at  least  transitable, 
but  some  repairs  and  alterations  are  needed  to  convert 
them  into  good  carriage  roads.  Now  that  the  new  road 
from  Cordoba  is  being  made  to  Los  Papagallos  it  is  the 
more  to  be  regretted  that  the  remaining  part  between 
that  point  and  San  Juan  should  continue  in  so  bad  and 
wretched  a  condition.  This  road  was  made  by  the 
Government  of  the  Province,  to  unite  it  with  that  of 
Rioja,  but,  being  ill  constructed,  it  has  not  produced 
the  results  expected.  A  bridge  is  required  across  the 
Rio  Bermejo,  as  well  as  many  deviations  from  its  actual 
route,  as  much  to  avoid  moving  sandhills  as  to  approach 
water  at  reasonable  distances  along  the  track.  A  road 
such  as  that  from  Rioja  toLos  Papagallos  without  water 
is  useless. 

With  regard  to  the  new  road  from  Cordoba  to  Los 
Papagallos,  I  consider  it  my  duty  to  offer  here  some 
practical  remarks,  founded  upon  a  personal  examination 
of  its  track. 

From  Chepes,  in  the  Llanos,  the  projected  road  takes 
a  direct  line  in  a  south-westerly  direction  to  Los 
Papagallos,  a  place  where  only  a  small  quantity  of 
water,  is  to  be  found,  and  that  of  a  very  bad 
description.  It  passes  over  quicksands  and  through 
part  of  the  salt  marshes.  I  would  respectfully  submit 
to  the  National  Government  that  this  is  a  very  undesi- 
rable direction,  that  it  will  make  the  road  very  costly, 


145 

and  that,  after  completion,  it  will  be  almost  impossible 
to  maintain  it  in  a  transitable  state  owing  to  the 
shifting  sands.  I  would  recommend  that,  from  Chepes, 
it  should  deviate  a  little  to  the  north  to  within  a 
short  distance  of  "  Senor  Queves,"  and  thence  proceed 
in  a  direct  line  westwards  until  a  junction  is  made  with 
the  carriage  highAvay  coming  from  the  north,  i.e.^  from 
Rioja  to  Los  Papagallos.  Then  to  follow  the  said  high- 
way southwards  as  far  as  Las  Marayes  (about  four 
leagues),  and,  instead  of  going  on  to  Las  Papagallos,  to 
take  a  south-westerly  course,  rounding  the  Sierra  de  las 
Marayes,  and  proceeding  until  the  present  road  from 
San  Juan  is  reached. 

This  road  would  have  the  followino-  advantao;es : 

1.  It  would  avoid  the  shifting  sands,  salt  marshes, 
and  places  having  neither  water  nor  pasture. 

2.  It  would  pass  over  firm  ground,  through  good 
pasture  lands,  and  places  fairly  populated  and  watered. 

3.  It  would  place  the  public  traffic  in  more  immediate 
contact  with  the  mines  and  reduction  works  of  La 
Huerta,  passing  through  Las  Marayes,  possessing  good 
water,  and  houses  where  refreshment  might  be  had; 
and,  above  all,  it  would  pass  close  to  the  precise  spot 
where  the  coal  deposit  exists. 

The  circuit  involved  in  adopting  this  route,  as  com- 
pared to  the  surveyed  one,  would  not,  I  believe,  on  the 
whole  exceed  four  leagues,  and  most  important  advan- 
tages would  be  gained  equally  by  the  public  and  Seiior 
Rojo,  the  contractor. 

Messrs.  IvJappenbach  have  already  made  about  three 
leagues  of  carriao-e  road  from  their  establishment  to- 
wards  Las  Marayes,  and  it  would  be  very  advisable  to 
accord  them  a  small  subvention  to  continue  it  up  to  the 


146 

latter  point,  as  such  a  means  of  communication  would 
immensely  facilitate  their  traffic  with  the  mines  and 
the  city  of  San  Juan.* 

*  Since  writing  the  above  I  am  glad  to  say  that  my  advice  to  the  Go- 
vernment has  been  followed,  and  the  alterations  recommended  ordered  to 
be  carried  out,  so  that  many  of  the  disadvantages  complained  of  exist  no 
longer.  The  Provincial  Government  has  also  paid  the  Anglo-Argentine 
Company  for  some  28  leagues  of  carriage  road  made  to  their  mines  of 
San  Juan.  This  is  an  instalment  of  a  high  road  to  the  Castano  and 
Tontal  districts. 


147 


PEOVINCE  OE  LA  RIOJA. 


GENERAL   PHYSICAL    ASPECT,    DESCRIPTION    OF    SOIL, 
CLIMATE,  &c. 

The  province  of  Rioja  is  situated  to  the  south  of  that 
of  Catamarca,  and  to  the  north  of  San  Juan,  upon  the 
easterly  watershed  of  the  great  Cordillera  of  the  Andes, 
in  the  mean  between  28°  30'  south  lat.,  and  67  30' 
and  71°  west  long.  (Paris),  embracing  a  superficies  or 
area  of  3,500  square  leagues.  To  the  west  it  touches 
Chili  by  the  crest  of  the  Andes ;  to  the  north  it  joins 
with  Catamarca ;  to  the  east  it  is  separated  from  Cordoba 
by  a  line  which  crosses  the  middle  of  the  basin  of  the  Sa- 
linas; to  the  south-east  it  touches  San  Luis,  likewise 
by  the  Salinas  and  the  series  of  pools  which  border  them ; 
to  the  south  it  joins  with  San  Juan  by  the  desert  and 
by  a  line  which  intersects  the  Andes  from  south-east  to 
north-west,  between  30°  and  31°  lat. 

The  general  aspect  is  that  of  an  immense  arid  plain, 
extending  to  the  foot  of  the  Andes,  and  composed  of 
sandy  clay,  white  on  the  surface  from  salt,  which  abounds 
in  the  basin  of  the  great  Salinas,  between  the  central 
ranges  and  the  Cordilleras.     This  plain  is  a  desert  {tra- 


148 

vesia),  almost  without  water,  covered  by  mimosa  of 
moderate  heiizlit,  with  stunted  arbustive  and  saline  plants. 
In  its  midst  to  the  south-east,  which  may  be  described 
as  the  dry  bed  of  a  former  sea,  runs  an  isolated  mass  of 
granitic  rocks,  comprising  three  parallel  ranges  of  vari- 
ous heights.  This  is  part  of  the  Sierra  of  Los  Llanos, 
partially  wooded  like  the  plain  around  its  base,  and 
which  constitutes  a  system  quite  distinct,  not  only  in 
orography,  but  also  in  Argentine  ethnology.  The  vari- 
ous cordons  of  the  Andes  generally  run  from  north 
to  south  ;  they  enclose  long  valleys,  of  which  the  principal 
is  that  of  Famatina,  and  at  their  final  eastern  ramifica- 
tions have  some  streams  and  fertile  gorges,  celebrated 
for  their  rich  agricultural  products.  Where  water  fails 
the  province  is  a  desert ;  wherever  irrigation  is  possible 
an  exuberant  fertility  covers  the  soil  with  a  splendid 
vegetation.  Some  mountain  gorges,  watered  by  torrents, 
nourish  some  beautiful  arborescent  species. 

One  single  river  of  some  importance,  but  not  navigable, 
waters  a  small  part  of  the  province  of  Rioja.  This  is  the 
Vermejo,  which,  rising  m  the  frozen  plateaux  of  the  Andes 
and  among  the  eternal  snows  of  the  Bonete,  flows 
through  the  valley  of  the  Jague,  enlarged  by  the  torrents 
from  the  Valle  Hermoso  and  those  from  the  mountains 
which  border  the  valley  of  Vinchina,  and  continuing 
its  course  towards  the  south,  receives  the  surplus  waters 
from  the  valley  of  Jachal,  and  is  lost  in  the  sandy  plains 
bordering  the  lagoons  of  Guanacache,  towards  32°  S.  lat. 
The  volume  of  water  which  flows  in  this  river  is  con- 
siderable during  the  summer,  when  storms  are  prevalent 
in  the  Cordillera,  but  is  greatly  reduced  in  winter  and 
spring.  The  other  watercourses  in  the  province  are 
unfortunately  few  in  number,  and  very  quickly  absorbed 


149 

by  irrigation  of  the  soil  and  for  domestic  use.  The 
greater  part  of  the  mountains  eastwards  of  Rioja,  such  as 
the  chain  of  Velasco  and  the  Llanos,  belong  to  the  gneiss 
and  granitic  formation;  they  are  more  prolific  in  springs 
than  rivers,  which,  I  need  scarcely  say,  are  exceedingly 
valuable  for  cattle. 

All  the  orographic  systems  of  Rioja,  except  that  of 
the  Sierra  de  los  Llanos,  belong  to  that  of  the  Andes. 
We  find  first,  in  commencing  at  the  west,  the  great 
plateau  of  the  Cordillera,  at  a  mean  altitude  of  4,000 
metres,  and  its  buttresses,  which  are  also  very  elevated, 
and  which  constitute  the  Sierras  del  Jague,  Famatina, 
and,  lastly,  those  of  Velasco  or  of  Rioja,  the  most 
easterly  of  all.  This  latter,  towards  the  north,  almost 
joins,  by  a  transverse  cordon,  the  Sierra  de  Famatina  and 
the  chains  which  are  lost  in  the  southern  border,  in  the 
long  travesia  of  Copocabana  at  Machigasta  and  the 
great  Salinas  of  Belem  and  of  Andalgala.  The  Sierra 
de  Mazan,  to  the  north  of  the  preceding,  forms  a  little 
system  in  itself,  which  undulates  into  the  chain  of  Am- 
bato,  but  is  partially  separated  from  it  by  the  gorge  or 
ravine  of  La  Cebila.  The  ramifications  of  the  Andes, 
or  secondary  chains,  are  generally  directed  from  north 
to  south;  those  of  Velasco,  Famatina,  and  Jague 
are  bound  to  the  mass  of  the  Andes  by  a  sort  of  transverse 
knot  between  the  villages  Angulos  and  Las  Campanas, 
where  rises  the  Cerro  de  Paiman  and  its   dependencies. 

The  Sierra  de  la  Rioja  stands  up  as  a  wall,  support- 
ing an  elongated  plateau,  of  which  the  altitude  is  about 
3,000  metres ;  that  of  Famatina  is  considerably  the  highest, 
which  attains  and  surpasses  even  some  of  those  of  the 
Cordillera ;  its  Nevado  reaches  nearly  6,200  metres,  and 
El  Espino, Bayo,  &c.,  nearly  as  much;  the  Cerro  Negro 


150 

IS  4,500.  The  valleys  enclosed  by  these  chams  are  of 
considerable  altitude ;  those  of  Jague  and  of  Guandacol 
attain  nearly  3,000  metres;  that  of  Yinchina,  2,500; 
that  of  Famatina,  1,200;  this  last,  the  largest  and  most 
extensive  of  all,  terminates  by  losing  itself  towards  the 
south,  on  the  plains  of  Los  Llanos. 

The  Sierra  of  this  name  (Los  Llanos)  rises,  as  I  have 
already  said,  as  an  isolated  oval  range,  assuming  a  form 
resembling  an  "  S  "  in  the  midst  of  an  immense  saline  basin, 
and  is  of  very  recent  elevation.  It  is  composed  of  three 
cordons,  which  are  designated  respectively  Costa  Alta, 
Costa  del  Medio,  and  Costa  Baja.  Its  altitude  is  not  con- 
siderable,— about  3  to  400  metres  at  most.  Its  length 
is  31  leagues;  its  breadth  3  to  6.  The  surrounding 
plains  are  deserts,  the  soil  being  a  dry  sandy  clay,  and 
water  is  seldom  found.  Where  it  is  possible,  the 
natives  dig  wells,  from  which  they  obtain  brackish 
water,  but  to  which  the  people  and  animals  easily  become 
habituated. 

The  little  valleys  and  ravines  of  the  Sierra  are  fairly 
supplied  with  rivulets  and  some  stunted  trees.  The 
cattle,  bred  in  large  numbers,  feed  there,  as  much  on 
the  leaves  as  on  the  coarse  grass  about. 

The  principal  mass  of  the  Cordillera  is  porphyric, 
its  buttresses  sandstone,  limestone,  clay-slate,  and  con- 
glomerates, as  the  Famatina  range;  that  of  Yelasco, 
with  its  dependencies,  belong  to  the  stratified  rocks,  as 
gneiss,  quartz,  mica-schist,  granite,  &c.  ThatofMazan 
is  principally  limestone.  The  formation  of  Los  Llanos 
is  of  the  same  nature  as  that  of  Velasco. 

The  soil  of  the  valleys  of  Rioja  is  composed,  first,  of 
a  stratum  of  rounded  flints  and  small  boulders  from  the 
neighbouring  mountains,  and  of  which  the  depth  is  un- 


151 

known;  then  a  deposit  more  or  less  thick  of  argillaceous 
saline  earth,  as  if  all  these  valleys  had  formed  the  bottom 
of  a  great  inland  sea.  This  soil  is  much  deeper  as  the 
valley  stretches  away  from  the  foot  of  the  mountains. 
On  the  plain,  the  argillaceous  soil  is  very  dry  and  singu- 
larly light,  and  rises  in  thick  clouds  of  dust  with  the 
least  wind,  and  which  eventually  becomes  whirlwinds, 
assuming  the  shape  of  vast  columns  of  considerable 
height.  In  the  environs  of  the  Sierra  de  Velasco  and  of 
its  dependencies  the  soil  is  granitic,  which  retains  mois- 
ture and  is  thus  of  a  remarkably  fertile  nature  when 
irrigated ;  the  argillaceous  and  salt  plains  even  become 
productive  and  fertile  when  it  is  possible  to  irrigate 
them.  The  digging  of  numerous  wells  with  troughs, 
and  the  sinking  of  artesian  wells,  would  do  much  to 
change  the  aspect  of  the  deserts  of  Rioja.  Few 
provinces  are  richer  in  gold,  silver,  nickel,  iron,  cobalt, 
rock  crystal,  marbles,  steatites,  &c.  Salts  of  soda,  chlo- 
rides, carbonates,  nitrates,  &c.,  are  in  abundance.  By 
evaporation,  in  some  parts,  a  residuum  is  obtained,  which 
could  be  and  is  efficiently  employed  in  the  manufacture 
of  gunpowder. 

Earthquakes  there  are  similar  to  those  of  the  neigh- 
bouring provinces,  but  have  never  caused  much  destruc- 
tion. That  of  1849  may  be  cited,  which  was  accom- 
panied with  great  subterranean  noise. 

The  climate  is  similar  to  that  of  Catamarca  (of  which 
later  on).  It  scarcely  ever  freezes  in  the  plain;  from 
November  to  June  the  heat  is  very  intense.  The  rains 
fall  from  December  to  March  only.  The  autumn,  winter, 
and  spring  are  dry.  The  clearness  of  the  sky  is  constant 
and  bad  weather  is  rare.  In  this  province  the  winter 
is  magnificent,  from  the  purity  of  the  atmosphere,  the 


152 

absence  of  wind,  and  the  cool  freshness  of  the  ah*.  In 
the  valleys,  however,  of  Guandacol  and  of  Famatina 
there  are  short  but  sharp  frosts.  Snow  sometimes 
covers  the  mountains,  but  does  not  remain  long;  the 
Nevado  only  retains  its  eternal  snowy  mantle,  and  often 
from  its  summit  descend  the  refreshing  winds  so  agree- 
able in  the  valleys. 

The  salubrity  of  the  climate  is  perfect ;  the  province 
has  no  special  malady,  except  the  goitre  in  some  valleys, 
especially  that  of  Famatina.  Sometimes  erruptive  fevers 
are  epidemic. 

The  nature  of  the  soil  restricts  vegetation  to  arborescent 
mimosa  on  the  plains,  to  the  jume  {lycium  salsum)  on 
the  salines,  which  become  vigorous  in  the  moist  gorges ; 
there  the  quebracho  and  algarrobo  attain  a  good  height. 
A  fine  acacia,  called  visco^  furnishes  wood  for  joiners' 
work ;  it  is  very  close  grained  and  magnificently  veined, 
and  could  be  exported  with  advantage.       Among  the 
mimosas,  which  grow  in  abundance,  some  species  give  a 
kind  of  gum  similar  to  Arabic.     As  in  the  adjacent  pro- 
vince of  Catamarca,    the   vegetation   depends    on   the 
moisture,  natural  or  artificial,  of  the  soil.      The  arid 
plains   of  the  travesia  have  some  immense  forests,  but 
sparse  in  trees,  which  are  stunted  and  thorny,  and  to 
penetrate  which  it  is  necessary  to  wear  leather  garments, 
or  shields  to  protect  horse  and  rider  from  the  thorns 
and   prickly  bushes  which  cover  the  ground.       These 
woods  are  the  continuation  of  the  interminable  forest, 
which  covers  the  interior  Argentine  plain,  for  the  whole 
length  of  the  Andes,  from  the  borders  of  the  Rio  Negro, 
in  Patagonia,  to  the  valley  of  Catamarca,  for  a  distance 
of  ten  degrees  in  latitude. 

Wherever  irrigation  is  possible,  the  soil  of  Rioja  is 


153 

extremely  fertile,  and  the  seasons  so  regular  that  the 
harvests  are  certam.  The  agricultural  products  are  of 
superior  quality.  Throughout  the  Argentine  Confede- 
ration there  is  not  better  wheat  nor  richer  wine.  The 
olive  attains  colossal  dimensions,  and  yields  excellent 
fruit;  the  peach,  orange,  and  all  fruit  trees  succeed  there 
admirably.  The  cotton,  cultivated  only  for  local  use, 
is  of  first  quality  for  its  length  and  strength  of  fibre. 
The  town  of  Rioja  is  widely  and  justly  reputed  for  its 
oranges ;  the  valley  of  Famatina  for  its  wines ;  also  the 
slopes  of  the  Arauco  produce  very  good  fruits,  especially 
olives.  The  stony  soil,  and  the  little  depth  of  the  irri- 
gated land  of  the  valleys,  seem  to  give  agricultural  pro- 
ductions of  a  rare  superiority  over  those  obtained  from 
deeper  and  richer  soil.  The  farmer  of  Rioja  is  indus- 
trious and  methodical,  but  by  no  means  enterprising, 
possessing  only  a  certain  amount  of  ability,  which  is 
proved  by  the  excellence  of  his  harvests.  Unfortunately, 
from  the  scarcity  of  running  water,  agriculture  is  limi- 
ted. This  could  be  increased  by  a  careful  examination 
of  the  gorges  of  the  mountains,  and  gathering  there,  in 
reservoirs,  the  waters  during  the  rainy  season;  but  the 
Riojanos  do  not  possess  the  energy,  activity,  or  capital 
to  undertake  such  works. 

Commerce  is  limited  and  confined  to  the  neighbour- 
ing provinces  and  to  Chili.  Wines  are  sent  to  C^ta- 
marca,  to  Tucuman,  and  to  Cordoba,  and  some  even  to 
the  coast.  It  is  unfortunate  that  these,  from  high  freights, 
cannot  reach  the  ports  of  the  Parana,  where  they  would 
advantageously  replace  the  dry  wines  and  foreign  alco- 
holic imports  from  Europe,  many  of  which  are  very  infe- 
rior to  those  of  Rioja.  Cordoba  takes  the  surplus  flour, 
oranges,  and  dried  fruits,  the  remaining  produce  is  lor 


154 

local  consumption.  Cattle  are  exported  to  Chili  by  the 
valleys  of  Copiapo  and  tluasco;  also  cheese  and  oranges. 
The  most  valuable  article  of  export  is  the  precious  metals 
from  Famatina,  and  in  exchange  they  receive  European 
manufactures.  The  central  point  of  commercial  trans- 
actions is  in  the  valley  of  this  name,  and  the  most  popu- 
lous of  the  country. 

In  consequence  of  the  political  troubles  which  agitated 
Eioja  half  a  century  ago,  industrial  pursuits  are  not  very 
advanced,  and  few  good  workmen  are  found  there ;  it  is 
necessary  to  introduce  improvements  in  the  method  of  ag- 
riculture and  increase  the  variety  of  its  productions.  The 
cochineal  cactus  abounds  everywhere,  and  the  insect,  if 
carefully  cultivated,  would  become  an  article  of  profi- 
table export.  It  would  be  quite  possible  to  cultivate 
the  mulberry  tree  and  the  silkworm,  but,  unfortunately, 
the  cultivators  of  the  soil  are  no  innovators,  and  the 
immense  difficulty  attending  the  introduction  of  any 
new  industry,  although  promising  great  advantages,  is 
well  known  and  justly  dreaded. 

The  isolation  of  this  province  from  the  others  by  the 
salt  and  sandy  deserts,  and  by  the  travesias  which  sur- 
round it,  limits  their  principal  communication  with  Rioja 
to  troops  of  pack-mules,  the  rearing  and  maintenance  of 
which  is  a  source  of  prolific  industry.  The  communi- 
cation with  the  coast  is  via  the  great  Salinas,  and  the 
Sierra  of  Cordoba,  by  a  route  of  116  leagues,  of  which 
GO  are  through  a  desert  which  has  only  a  few  scattered 
estancias  or  farm  houses.  At  30  leagues  from  the  capital 
this  road  turns  the  northern  points  of  the  Sierra  de 
los  Llanos,  and  quits  the  Salinas,  which,  at  this  place, 
are  14  leagues  broad,  and  enters  the  Sierra  de  Cordoba  by 
Pichana  and  Soto ;  the  route  through  the  Sierra  de  Cor- 


155 

doba  is  being  made  practicable  for  carriages,  as  already 
stated  in  speaking  of  San  Juan.  The  intercourse  with 
Santiago  del  Estero  is  rare;  but  communication  is 
effected  by  passing  the  long  travesias,  where  there  is 
here  and  there  a  farm-house  near  some  wells  or  pools  of 
brackish  water,  and  where  hospitahty  never  fails.  The 
distance  is  90  leao;ues.  The  communication  with  San 
Luis  is  by  the  south  point  of  the  Sierra  de  los  Llanos, 
the  hamlet  of  Las  Liebres,  and  the  quebrada  of  Santa 
Barbara;  the  distance  by  this  route  is  180  leagues. 
The  roads  most  frequented  are  those  of  San  Juan  and 
Catamarca,  which  is  the  route  followed  by  the  national 
courier,  carrying  the  mails  of  the  west,  and  who  rides 
from  Mendoza  to  Tucuman.  The  route  to  Chili  is  by 
the  valley  of  Vinchina,  the  Cordillera  of  Leoncito,  or 
of  the  Pefion,  and  the  Portezuelo  Come-Caballo.  From 
Famatina  to  Capiapo  the  journey  may  be  made  in  six 
days,  but  generally  occupies  eight  days.  The  Riojanos  are 
excellent  muleteers,  and  well  accustomed  to  the  Andine 
tracks,  as  well  as  those  over  the  salt  and  arid  plains. 
To  these  hardy  children  of  the  desert  the  longest  and 
most  difficult  journeys  seem  a  pleasure.  All  the  routes 
on  the  plain  could  be  made  practicable  for  carriages  if 
there  were  a  sufficient  number  of  wells,  or  watering 
places,  with  post-houses,  established  near  them ;  the  water 
could  also  be  used  for  irrigating  the  land,  and  enclosures 
for  lucerne  could  be  maintained.  Artesian  wells  in  the 
district  of  the  Llanos  would  change  the  entire  aspect  of 
the  country  and  aid  powerfully  in  its  civilization.  The 
diligence,  carrying  the  national  mails,  now  runs  weekly 
from  Cordoba  to  Rioja,  via  the  Horqueta  and  Don  Diego, 
where  a  branch  line  goes  to  Catamarca;  hence  passen- 
gers, mails,  and  specie  may  reach  any  of  these  points 


156 


per  coach  in  comparative  comfort  to  former  times  when 
only  sturdy  mules  were  available. 

The  province  of  Rioja  is  now  divided  into  seven 
departments, — the  Capital,  to  the  east  of  the  Cerro 
de  Valasco;  Los  Llanos,  Costa- Arriba  and  Costa-Baja 
in  the  Sierra  of  this  name;  Costa  de  Arauco,  to  the 
northern  point  of  the  Sierra  de  Velasco,  adjacent  to 
Catamarca ;  Famatina,  in  the  long  valley  of  this  name ; 
Vinchina,  between  the  Sierra  of  Famatina  and  the  Andes ; 
lastly,  Guandacol,  in  the  high  valleys  of  the  Andes,  ad- 
joining the  province  of  San  Juan. 

The  department  of  the  capital  comprises  the  town 
of  Rioja  {Ciw lad  de  Todos  los  Santos  de  la  Niieva  Rioja) 
and  its  confines,  which  are  very  extended.  The  town  of 
Rioja  is  situated  in  nearly  29°  20' south  lat.,  69*^  30' west 
long.  (Paris),  and  at  an  altitude  of  510  metres  on  the 
plains,  which  commence  at  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  de 
Velasco,  and  run  into  the  quebrada  of  Sanagasta, 
whence  rises  a  clear  stream,  which  waters  it  and  creates 
an  oasis,  full  of  shade  and  freshness,  in  the  midst  of  the 
desert. 

Founded  in  1591,  by  Don  Juan  Ramirez  de  Velasco, 
Governor  of  Tucuman,  it  was  primitively  divided  into 
81  squares  or  blocks,  viz.,  nine  for  the  town,  and  then  the 
necessary  reserves  for  the  convents  of  the  Jesuits,  Fran- 
ciscans, Dominicans,  the  Fathers  of  Mercy,  the  parish 
churches,  and  those  designated  for  cultivation. 

Rioja  was  for  a  long  time  stationary  in  advancement ; 
at  the  commencement  of  the  18th  century  it  was  no 
longer  a  village ;  at  the  beginning  of  the  present  century 
it  assumed  a  degree  of  importance  of  which  it  has  since 
been  deprived.  It  is  easy  to  see,  from  its  public  edifices 
and  houses,  &c.,  that  it  has  been  at  one  time  much  more 


157 

prosperous  than  now.  In  fact,  the  place  is  surrounded 
with  the  remains  6f  fine  buildings,  but  they  now 
need  repair  sadly;  if  the  parish  church,  the  convent  of 
San  Francisco  and  Santo-Domingo,  the  church  of  San 
Nicolas,  maintained  by  the  family  of  Gomez,  are  in  good 
repair,  the  convent  and  church  of  Merced  are  in  ruins. 
The  mint,  formerly  in  the  college  of  the  Jesuits,  is  now 
abandoned  and  closed.  Although  the  buildings  show  a 
general  decay,  the  vegetation  is  magnificent ;  the  orange 
trees  fill  the  air  with  fragrant  perfumes ;  in  the  courts 
and  gardens  the  fruit  is  exquisite,  and  fruit  trees  gene- 
rally prosper  in  the  granitic  soil  of  this  oasis,  where 
irrigating  canals  from  the  river  maintain  a  fertilising 
influence  and  freshness. 

Commerce  is  very  restricted  here,  and  reduced  almost 
to  the  export  of  wine  and  oranges  to  Cordoba  in  exchange 
for  articles  of  European  manufacture,  imported  via 
Buenos  Ayres. 

The  future  prosperity  of  Rioja  must  consist  principally 
in  the  progress  of  agriculture  and  its  mineral  wealth, 
for  its  situation  prevents  it  from  becoming  a  depot  of 
commercial  importance.  It  could  be  so  only  to  some 
extent,  after  the  opening  of  the  railway  from  Rosario  to 
Cordoba,  and  prolongation  to  Tucuman.  It  will  be  es- 
sential to  maintain  the  present  track  for  the  muleteers 
on  the  road  to  Famatina,  by  the  Sierra,  in  good  repair, 
for  this  department  is  the  richest  and  most  important  in 
the  province.  On  the  other  side  the  communication 
between  the  provinces  of  Cuyo  and  those  of  the  north 
can  be  made  only  by  the  town  of  Rioja  or  by  Famatina, 
and  this  circumstance,  when  the  country  is  better 
peopled,  will  make  it  a  point  necessary  to  be  frequented 
by  all  the  traffic  from  the  north,  south,  and  west. 


i58 

The  en\'irons  of  Rioja  are  very  fertile,  where  the 
waters  of  the  river  extend,  but  without  this  it  is  not 
productive,  and  unhappily  this  charming  stream  of  water 
is  not  abundant  enough,  after  having  watered  a  square 
league  of  land,  to  extend  furthsr  its  fertilising  influence. 
The  quebrada,  which  leads  to  Sanogasta,  a  village  of  the 
Indians  in  the  mountain,  is  well  wooded,  but  would 
be  more  valuable  if  cleared  and  subjected  to  the 
cultivation  of  wheat  and  the  vine.  This  o-oro;e  leads 
over  the  plateau  of  the  Sierra  de  Velasco,  where  the  only 
occupation  possible  for  the  inhabitants  is  the  breeding 
of  cattle. 

The  plaui  which  surrounds  the  capital  is  covered 
with  thinly  scattered  trees,  and  here  the  farmers  are 
obliged  to  form  reservoirs  for  water  for  their  thirsty 
cattle.  But  through  all  the  length  of  the  Sierra  there 
are  natural  springs  and  small  streams,  which  supply  the 
wants  of  small  hamlets,  as  Tutcun  and  San  Cristoval, 
and  likewise  numerous  estancias,  such  as  Ampiza, 
Estanque,  Carrisal,  Amilgancho,  &c.,  which  are  the 
chief  places  of  the  district.  The  principal  occupa- 
tion of  the  inhabitants  of  those  parts  is  the  care  of  their 
flocks,  but  they  cultivate,  in  small  quantities,  wheat, 
maize,  vines,  and  some  fruit  trees. 

The  department  of  Famatina  is  very  extensive,  as  it 
nearly  touches  the  boundary  of  Catamarca  to  the  north, 
and  that  of  San  Juan  to  the  south.  It  is  situate  in 
the  valley  of  this  name,  bounded  on  the  Avest  by  the 
Sierra  Nevado,  and  on  the  east  by  that  of  Velasco; 
the  transverse  rano;e  of  Paiman,  which  unites  these  two 
chains  to  the  north,  encloses  the  two  little  valleys  and 
villages  of  Los  Campanas  and  Angulo.  The  first,  at  an 
altitude  of  1,600  metres,  is  remarkable  for  some  schistose 


159 

stones,  which,  when  struck  with  a  hard  substance,  pro- 
duce a  sound  resemblino;  a  bell.  This  canton  is  hio^hlv 
reputed  for  its  agriculture,  and  especially  for  its  excellent 
apples ;  it  also  produces  very  good  wine.  The  latter  is 
a  miserable  hamlet,  and  the  land  badly  cultivated. 
These  two  valleys  are  separated  from  that  of  Famatina 
by  the  Portezaelo  de  la  Aguadita,  of  which  the  altitude 
is,  perhaps,  2,800  metres.  At  the  Carrisal,  lower  down 
there  is  a  church,  then  comes  the  extensive  village  of  Fa- 
matina, which  is  not  less  than  three  leagues  long,  being 
a  series  of  houses  and  fields,  which  finish  only  when  the 
water  so  necessary  for  human  existence  is  completely 
absorbed.  There  is  also  a  modern  church  in  this  villao-e, 
erected  by  the  people  themselves,  under  the  direction 
of  the  cure.  All  this  canton  is  populous  and  well  cul- 
tivated, having  abundant  streams  of  water  from  the 
Nevado  and  other  mountains  to  the  west.  It  is  15 
leagues  from  the  church  to  the  mines,  following  the 
stream  westwards ;  the  path  is  very  bad,  but  could  easily 
be  improved.  Between  the  village  of  Famatina  and 
that  of  Chilecito  (or  Villa  Argentina),  the  chief  town 
in  the  department,  extends  a  stony  desert  of  six  leagues, 
covered  with  a  stunted  vegetation,  consisting  of  jarilla, 
re  tamo,  &c. 

The  cultivation  is  similar  to  Chilecito,  under  the  bene- 
ficial influence  of  irrio-ation.     The  altitude  of  the  vilWe 

O  O 

is  1,100  metres.  The  olive,  orange,  and  pomegranate 
produce  well.  A  crowd  of  small  and  pretty  hamlets  en- 
rich the  environs  of  Chilecito;  those  are  Sarmientos, 
San  Nicolas,  Anguinan,  the  ancient  parish  (for  Chilecito 
is  a  modern  creation),  nnd  Malligasta,  a  large  village 
with  a  church  and  schools. 

A  little  chain  of  granitic  hills  divides   the  valley  of 


160 

Famatina  from  the  Portezuelo  de  la  Aguadita  up  to 
Konogasta.  The  eastern  portion  is  arid ;  nevertheless 
the  two  thriving  villages  of  Pituil  and  of  Tinimuqui  are 
situate  there.  The  scarcity  of  water  in  these  eastern 
districts  is  much  to  be  regretted,  as  the  stratum  of  vege- 
table earth  is  very  thick,  and  the  soil  would  be  exceed- 
ingly fertile,  as  the  seasons  are  very  regular.  The  same 
remark  applies  to  the  lower  valley,  which  forms  an  im- 
mense travesia  to  the  east,  after  leaving  the  villages  of 
Nonoffasta  and  Bichi  o^asta.  The  former  is  renowned  for 
its  excellent  wines,  which  are  also  produced  in  the  latter, 
but  in  less  abundance;  they  make  here  "  patay,"  or 
bread  from  the  fruit  of  the  carob  tree,  of  which  there 
are  an  immense  number  around  this  spot  and  about 
the  valley,  here  six  leagues  broad.  At  Bichigasta  opens 
the  valley  of  Guachin,  which  is  well  watered,  and  where 
also  touches  the  route  from  Vinchina,  via  Sanogasta, 
which,  crossing  the  chain  of  Famatina,  leads  to  the  val- 
leys approaching  the  Andes. 

Silver  is  exported  from  this  district  partly  to  Chili  and 
partly  to  Cordoba.  The  town  of  Chilecito,  or  Villa  Ar- 
gentina, is  superior  in  activity  and  commercial  enterprise 
to  the  capital  itself,  being  the  most  important  depot  in  the 
province,  and  the  true  centre  of  business  with  the  interior. 

Population,  1869.— City,  5,647  ;  country,  43,512  ; 
total,  48,959. 

MINERAL  RESOURCES,  &c. 

The  working  of  mines  in  this  province  dates  from  a 
period  anterior  to  the  independence  of  the  Republic,  a 
number  of  Spaniards  having  been  settled  in  the  rich 
territory  of  La  Rioja  for  many  years  prior  to  the  out- 
break of  the  Hispano-American  struggle.  They  did  not, 
however,  develop  the  mineral  resources  of  the  province 


161 

as  their  real  importance  deserved.  About  the  year 
1824,  when  an  extraordinary  rage  for  mining  operations 
prevailed,  works  were  inaugurated  for  the  development 
of  the  mineral  wealth  of  the  Sierra  de  Famatina,  but, 
unfortunately,  this  enthusiasm  was  not  of  long  duration. 
The  operations  of  a  German  Company,  which  sent  its 
engineers  and  miners  to  Famatina,  were  paralysed  by 
the  political  disturbances  then  so  rife  in  the  country, 
and  the  assassination  of  its  agent  and  director,  by  order  of 
the  rebel  chief  Quirogo,^formed  the  climax  of  its  extinc- 
tion. 

The  workings  commenced  by  them,  which  were  of 
considerable  importance,  are  at  present  almost  worth- 
less, choked  up  as  they  are  with  debris  and  filled  with 
water. 

At  a  subsequent  period,  when  the  country  was  in 
the  enjoyment  of  a  short  interval  of  tranquillity,  nume- 
rous miners  from  Chili  and  Peru,  as  well  as  a  few 
natives,  carried  on  important  works,  resulting  in  the 
production  of  a  large  quantity  of  bar  silver,  but,  on 
the  recurrence  of  revolutions  and  political  disturbances, 
these  were  in  their  turn  compelled  to  abandon  their 
labours. 

Mining  is  now  much  neglected  there,  and  very  few 
mines  are  in  active  work ;  but  of  late  there  is  a  ten- 
dency to  re-organise  enterprises  amongst  the  few  exist- 
ing capitalists,  and  to  develope  the  immense  mineral 
wealth  still  hidden  away  in  the  celebrated  Cerros  Negro 
and   Mejicano  of  Famatina. 

I  must  classify  the  mines  of  Famatina  as  the  richest 
in  the  Republic,  and  its  ores  as  holding  the  largest  per- 
centage of  silver.  The  lodes,  it  is  true,  are  not  so  wide  as 
those  found  in  other  places,  but,  from  theii'  great  number 


162 

and  extent,  I  am  convinced  that  Famatinais  not  surpassed 
for  abundance  of  ore  by  any  other  mineral  district  in  the 
country.  The  ley  of  its  ores  and  their  composition 
are  of  the  most  promising  character,  and  afford  sub- 
stantial grounds  for  believing  that  rich  results  will  re- 
ward operations  at  greater  depth.  Nevertheless,  as  is 
the  case  in  all  human  affairs,  there  are  drawbacks  and 
difficulties  which  can  only  be  surmounted  by  large 
capital,  perseverance,  energy,  and  especially  mining 
skill. 

The  roads  leading  to  Cerro  Negro,  in  their  present 
state,  are  quite  intransitable,  and  it  was  with  great  labour 
I  managed  to  reach  the  mines,  both  from  the  roughness 
of  the  ground  and  the  height  at  which  some  of  them  are 
situated, — 13,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

There  is  absolutely  neither  wood  nor  other  fuel  in 
the  vicinity,  and  this  has  to  be  conveyed  from  distant 
ravines  at  considerable  cost.  There  is  plenty  of  pas- 
ture and  water,  but  the  cold,  even  during  the  sum- 
mer, and  the  pima,  or  rarefaction  of  the  atmosphere 
owing  to  the  great  elevation,  are  most  serious  obstacles 
and  almost  insuperable  for  persons  not  accustomed  to 
such  altitudes.  The  miners  of  those  regions  alone  can 
endure  the  rigours  of  nature  at  these  great  heights,  which 
upon  them  appear  to  have  no  effect  whatever. 

From  January  to  March  the  rainfall  in  Famatina  is 
very  heavy,  causing  the  miners  to  suspend  their  labours, 
and  descend  (those  of  the  Cerro  Negro)  to  the  town.  They 
then  generally  pick  and  classify  the  ores  extracted  dur- 
ing the  rest  of  the  year,  and  the  interval  of  the  rainy 
season  is  occupied  in  grinding  and  reducing  them.  The 
means  employed  for  this  purpose  are  the  crude  systems 
of  "  Patio  "  and  "  Repaso  "  (so  well  known  in  Mexico), 


163 

entailing  the  loss  of  a  great  part  of  the  silver,  and  of 
nearly  the  whole  of  the  mercury  used  for  its  extraction. 
To  this,  and  the  system  of  beneficio  in  practice  in 
Famatina,  I  will  refer  later  on  in  its  proper  place. 

The  mining  district  of  Famatina  may  be  divided  into 
two  sections,  that  of  Cerro  Negro  (Black  Mountain),  and 
that  of  Mejicana  (the  Mexican). 

The  mines  of  Cerro  Neo-ro  are  scattered  about  at  short 
distances,  m  rugged  and  lofty  mountains,  covering  about 
three  leagues  in  circumference,  and  are  only  accessible 
by  narrow  defiles  and  overhanging  precipices,  more  re- 
sembling guanaco  or  deer  tracks  than  ordinary  roads. 
There  are  some  exceedingly  dangerous  declivities  and 
ascents,  at  places  presenting  abysses  of  more  than  1,000 
feet  in  perpendicular  depth.  It  needs  a  strong  nerve  and 
firm  step  on  the  part  of  both  man  and  mule  to  pass 
these  points  either  on  foot  or  mounted.  How  must  it 
be,  then,  with  heavy  loads  of  ore  or  provisions  for  the 
mines?  Before  operations  on  a  commensurate  scale 
can  be  inaguarated  it  would  be  necessary  to  spend  about 
£2,000,  to  provide  the  district  with  roads  transitable  by 
pack  mules,  and  as  for  carriage  roads  I  consider  their 
construction,  except  in  some  parts,  almost  impracti- 
cable. 

AURIFEROUS    DISTRICT. 

This  is  situated  about  seven  leas^ues  from  the  town  of 
Famatina  (Chilecito),  in  the  Cerro  Negro,  at  10,250  feet 
above  the  sea  level.  There  is  a  total  absence  of  fire- 
n-ood,  but  abundance  of  water  and  pasture.  It  consists 
of  auriferous  lodes,  the  principal  not  exceeding  three 
in  number,  much  worked  out  and  exhausted.  Their 
deepest  workings  are  about  30  fathoms  in  vertical  depth, 
and  are  fall  of  water  and  debris.       The  lodes  vary  in 


164 

width  from  half-a-yard  to  a  yard ;  and  almost  all  of  them 
consist  of  arsenical  iron  pyrites,  holding  a  considerable 
quantity  of  gold,  which  cannot,  however,  be  extracted 
by  the  crude  systems  of  amalgamation  practised  in  those 
regions. 

The  black  oxide  of  manganese  and  iron  abounds, 
and  1  found  considerable  quantities  layiiig  -about  on  all 
sides.  A  sample  of  these  ores,  tal^en  without  selection, 
gave  a  ley  of  six  ounces  of  gold  to  the  ton,  a  yield  which 
would  make  the  extraction  and  reduction  of  the  ore 
very  profitable ;  but,  owing  to  the  difficulties  of  trans- 
port, the  result  of  any  enterprise  in  this  direction  would 
be  extremely  problematical  from  a  commercial  point  of 
view.  The  greater  part  of  the  veins  are  very  narrow, 
and  their  working  on  a  large  scale  would  not  be  suffici- 
ently if  at  all  remunerative. 

SILVER  MIJS'ES  OF  CERRO  NEGRO. 
Almost  without  a  single  exception,  all  the  celebrated 
silver  mines  are  now  under  water  or  choked  up  with 
debris,  and  are  irregularly  worked  and  exhausted  on 
the  surface.  It  is  impossible  to  enter  or  inspect  them 
internally;  and  I  could,  therefore,  only  examine  the 
surface  and  take  cognizance  of  the  remains  of  their 
former  greatness  and  wealth.  From  the  thousands  of 
tons  of  desmontes^  or  refuse  orestufF,  which  surround 
them,  together  with  the  numerous  openings,  adits,  and 
shafts  which  are  observable,  it  is  reasonable  to  believe 
that  at  one  time  they  must  have  been  of  great  richness 
and  importance.  In  their  present  state,  however,  they 
are  worthless,  and  could  only  be  rendered  of  commercial 
value  by  constructing  adits  or  employing  machinery  to 
remove  the  water.     The   form  of  the  hills,  and  their 


165 

immense  altitude,  are  favourable  to  draining  off  the 
water  by  means  of  adits,  and  which  would  probably  cut 
the  veins  at  an  enormous  depth,  at  once  proving  their 
richness  and  extent.  But  the  driving  of  such  adits 
would  demand  the  expenditure  of  large  sums  of  money 
before  beneficial  results  could  be  obtained;  and  as  neither 
the  necessary  capital  nor  skill  exists  in  Famatina,  there 
is  no  hope  of  this  being  carried  out,  unless  indeed  by  the 
aid  of  foreign  capital  and  energy.  Nevertheless,  the 
district  is  so  extensive,  and  so  extraordinarily  metallife- 
rous, that  erratic  miners  (pirquineros),  working  upon 
the  surface,  which  is  traversed  at  every  angle  and  in 
every  possible  direction  by  hundreds  of  virgin  lodes, 
extract  ore  of  such  richness  that  the  annual  product 
from  this  source  alone  is  not  less  than  59,200  ounces, 
representing  an  approximate  value  of  about  £16,000. 

The  only  mining  works  which  I  found  in  the  Cerro 
Negro  were  those  of  Senor  Uladislao  Gordillo,  who  fol- 
lowed up  a  narrow  lode  of  very  rich  ore — almost  semi- 
bar  silver — but  at  a  depth  of  only  5  J  fathoms  it  ceased 
to  be  productive  and  water  invaded  the  workings. 
Energetic  efforts  were  being  made  to  remove  the  latter 
by  means  of  leathern  bags,  but  without  effect,  as  the 
locality  is  unfavourable  from  the  continuous  and  copious 
rains  falling  at  that  season  of  the  year.  Only  four  men 
were  employed. 

Oxide  of  iron  is  found  in  wonderful  abundance  in  the 
Cerro  Negro,  and  a  single  lode — the  "  San  Andres" — is 
visible  for  upwards  of  2,000  yards,  having  a  width  of 
six  feet,  and  consisting  of  almost  pure  hematite  with  not 
less  than  70  per  cent,  of  iron.  If,  in  the  future,  the 
industry  of  iron  smelting  should  be  established  in  this 
country,  the  deposits  of  Cerro  Negro  are  destined  to  be- 


166 

come  of  first  importance  and  to  be  uf  the  greatest 
interest  and  value. 

Passing  from  the  Cerro  Negro  to  Mejicana,  the  mining 
district  of  La  Caldera  is  reached,  in  which  there  are 
only  two  mining  establishments — one  belonging  to  Senor 
Don  Carlos  Angel  and  the  other  to  Serior  D.  Francisco 
Bascunan.  The  first  is  situated  upon  a  lode  of  nine 
inches  in  width,  yielding  ore  of  an  average  ley  of  not  less 
than  1,223  ounces  to  the  ton.  Kich  masses  of  native 
silver  are  frequently  extracted.  This  mine  belonged 
to  Senor  Cabrera,  and  was  sold  to  Senor  Angel  a  few 
days  previous  to  my  visit  for  about  £670. 

Bascunan's  mine,  La  Esperanza^  is  on  a  narrow  vein 
from  two  to  three  inches  in  width,  but  yielding  very 
rich  ore,  almost  semi-bar  silver.  From  this  vein,  with 
my  own  hands,  I  broke  off  a  piece  of  ore  10  inches 
square  by  two  thick,  holding  so  much  native  silver  that 
the  stone  could  hardly  be  broken  without  a  chisel. 
The  ley  of  a  general  sample  does  not,  however,  exceed 
370  ounces  to  the  ton.  Nine  men  were  employed,  and 
the  lowest  workings  not  more  than  15  fathoms  in  ver- 
tical depth. 

MINING  DISTRICT   OF   LA  MEJICANA. 

From  Caldera,  I  proceeded  to  the  Cerro  de  la  Mejica- 
na, which  is  at  the  foot  of  the  Nevado  de  Famatina, 
whose  height,  according  to  Naranjo,  is  20,680  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  The  snow  on  its  summit  is  perpe- 
tual, and  the  mines,  which  are  situated  around  and  upon 
its  base,  are  also  completely  covered  with  snow  during 
intervals  in  the  winter.  The  hiohest  mine  is  at  an  eleva- 
tion  of  16,532  feet,  and  has  in  its  time  been  exceedingly 
rich,  yielding  large  quantities  of  semi-bar  silver.      It  was 


167 

sold  to  Senor  Don  Rafael  Fraguiero  for  about  £4,000 ; 
but,  subsequently,  chiefly  from  want  of  good  manage- 
ment and  the  falling  in  of  the  roof,  it  ceased  to  be  pro- 
ductive. This  mine  is  called  La  Espina^  and  was 
abandoned  at  the  tinie  of  my  visit. 

From  its  greater  altitude  and  different  formation,  the 
Cerro  de  la  Mejicana  is  not,  as  respects  water,  in  the 
same  disadvantageous  position  as  the  Cerro  Negro ;  it 
is  dr}'-  in  the  lowest  workings  of  its  mines,  none  of  which, 
however,  are  of  greater  vertical  depth  than  25  fathoms, 
and  cannot,  therefore,  be  described  as  other  than  su- 
perficial. The  summer  rains  never  interfere  with  the 
mines,  some  of  which  I  found  in  active  operation. 

The  Rlncon  de  la  Mejicana  mine  was  formerly  worked 
for  gold.  It  was  choked  up  with  earth,  but  has  been 
recently  opened  by  Don  Carlos  Angel.  The  vein  had 
not  yet  been  cut  in  beneficio  when  I  visited  the  mine. 

The  Verdiona  mine,  which  was  also  renowned  for  its 
richness,  is  now  choked  up  with  debris,  and  has  been 
abandoned  for  many  years.  I  was  unable  to  enter  the 
galleries  or  workings,  for  when  mines  have  been  aban- 
doned a  few  years  in  La  Mejicana  their  entrances  are 
filled  up  with  snow  and  sand  from  the  surface,  forming 
a  frozen  mass  for  10  to  12  j^ards  down,  and  of  such  hard- 
ness that  it  cannot  be  broken  without  blasting.  As  a 
consequence,  mines  are  soon  choked  up  and  their  en- 
trances completely  obstructed. 

There  is  a  large  quantity  of  ore  on  the  surface,  prin- 
cipally sulpho-arsenides  of  iron,  from  which  I  took  a 
sample,  yielding  about  46  ounces  of  silver  (with  gold) 
per  ton ;  there  were  also  traces  of  copper,  but  none  of 
nickel,  which  these  ores  were  believed  to  contain. 

The  Conipania  mine,  next  after  the  Verdiona^  belongs 


168 

to  Don  Vicente  Gomez,  and  was  in  active  operation. 
There  were  13  men  employed,  and  about  six  tons  of 
ore  were  dressed  on  the  surface,  the  second  class  holding 
209  ounces  of  silver  and  about  three-quarters  of  an 
ounce  of  gold  to  the  ton.  The  first  class  ore  gives  1,529 
ounces  of  silver  and  1 J  ounces  of  gold  to  the  ton.  The 
vein  is  the  same  as  that  on  which  the  Verdiona  mine  is 
situated,  and,  being  in  active  work,  I  had  the  opportunity 
of  inspecting  the  lowest  levels  and  seeing  the  lode  in 
depth.  It  varies  greatly  in  width,  from  J  to  1 J  yards ; 
it  contains  a  large  proportion  of  arsenical  iron  pyrites, 
with  a  poor  ley  for  silver  and  gold.  The  lode,  never- 
theless, promises  well  at  greater  depth,  and  a  marked 
improvement  is  observable  in  it  from  the  surface  to 
the  lowest  levels.  These  are  not,  however,  over  20 
fathoms  in  vertical  depth. 

There  is  a  large  quantity  of  poor  ores  on  the  sur- 
face, holding  a  fair  percentage  of  copper  and  some 
gold,  which,  perhaps,  might  be  profitably  reduced  in 
suitable  furnaces,  and  produce  copper  regulus  holding 
gold  and  silver,  if  mixed  with  ores  having  a  good  ley  of 
these  metals. 

The  Upulungo  mine  is  contiguous  to  the  Campania, 
and  belongs  to  Don  Ricardo  V aldez.  This  mine  is  said 
to  be  very  rich,  but  its  mouth  being  choked  up  with  debris 
and  snow,  I  was  unable  to  explore  it  internally.  The 
owner  of  the  Compania  had  commenced  a  lawsuit 
against  V aldez  for  ha^ang  penetrated  from  a  lower  level 
in  his  mine  into  the  vein  of  the  Compania,  where  ores 
holding  a  very  large  percentage  of  silver  and  gold  were 
extracted.  The  mine  had  not  been  worked  for  over  a 
year. 

The   Urquiza    mine  is    situated  further  south,  and 


169 

belongs  to  Don  Ignacio  Moreno.  Five  men  were  em- 
ployed ;  the  vein  is  very  productive,  about  two  yards  in 
width,  consisting  of  semi- warm  ores  (chlorides  with  sul- 
pho-antimonides)  holding  an  average  ley  of  about  98 
ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton. 

The  Chilena  mine  is  situated  in  the  Cerro  del  Tigre, 
at  a  short  distance  from  the  Urquiza,  and  belongs  to 
the  same  proprietor.  Four  men  were  employed,  work- 
ing on  the  surface  in  an  open  cutting.  The  lode  is 
productive,  being  two  yards  in  width,  and  the  ley  of  the 
ores  varies  from  49  to  74  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton. 

There  are  five  other  veins  or  mines  in  La  Mejicana, 
all  of  which  are  out  of  work  and  so  choked  up  with  earth 
as  to  prevent  any  internal  exploration.  Their  import- 
ance is  manifest  from  superficial  appearances,  and  they 
are  almost  identical  with  those  of  La  Cow.pania.  With- 
out exception,  they  have  all  been  worked  upon  the  sur- 
face only,  and  none  of  them  carried  deep  enough  to 
prove  their  ultimate  richness.  The  late  Don  Panta- 
leon  Garcia  inagurated  the  only  work  calculated  to 
solve  the  problem,  Le.^  an  adit  to  cut  all  the  veins  of 
La  Mejicana  on  a  level  with  the  bottom  of  the  ravine. 
This  is  a  very  important  but  ill-directed  undertaking. 

The  mouth  of  the  adit  is  below,  in  the  ravine,  at  a 
distance  of  about  100  yards  from  the  Compania  mine, 
and  at  a  vertical  depth  of  80  to  90  yards  from  the  sur- 
face of  the  latter.  It  is  ten  feet  high  by  sLx  in  width, 
but  badly  constructed,  the  main  wooden  props  hav- 
ing already  broken  and  given  way  owing  to  the  great 
weight  of  the  superincumbent  earth  and  stones.  Not 
more  than  23  yards  now  remain  open,  the  total  length 
of  the  adit  being  about  50  yards.  The  expenditure 
on  this  enterprise    was  about   £8,500,   subscribed   by 


170 

an  association,  but  the  work  done  does  not  represent  a 
higher  sum  than  £2,500. 

I  do  not  consider  the  direction  of  this  adit  to  be  the 
true  or  best  one  for  cutting  all  the  veins  of  La  Mejicana, 
but  at  the  length  of  100  yards,  inwards,  its  course 
might  be  altered,  taking  two  angles,  one  to  the  left  and 
another  to  the  right,  by  which  means  many  gold  and 
silver  veins  would  be  cut ;  for,  at  a  short  distance  lower 
down  in  the  ravine,  are  found  old  gold  mines  of  good 
ley  when  formerly  worked.  These  are  now  choked 
with  earth  and  water,  bat  the  principal  lodes  go  into 
and  bury  themselves  in  La  Mejicana,  and  it  is  there- 
fore very  probable  that  they  would  be  cut  by  the  adit. 

About  five  leagues  lower  down  in  the  ravine  are  some 
old  placer  washings,  but  they  are  now  without  commer- 
cial value,  unless  worked  on  a  large  scale,  as  is  done  in 
California,  that  is  to  say,  washing  300  tons  a  day. 

The  cost  of  firewood  in  this  district  is  £1  9s.  per  ton 
(20  cwt. ) ;  beef,  IJd.  per  lb. ;  maize,  10s.  to  16s.  8d.  per 
fanega  (300  lb.) ;  dry  figs,  Jd.  per  lb ;  nuts,  |d.  per  lb. ; 
and  the  freight  charge  on  provisions  from  the  town  to 
the  mines  3s.  4d.  per  mule  load  of  380  lbs. 

REDUCTION  ESTABLISHMENTS. 

In  Famatina  there  are  at  present  three  amalgamation 
works  in  full  activity,  and  two  in  preparation  with  two 
others  stopped;  for  copper  smelting,  one;  for  lead, 
one. 

The  first  establishment  nearest  the  town  is  La 
Compahia^  and  belongs  to  Messrs.  Carlos  Angel  and 
Francisco  Alvarez.  It  is  situated  about  one  mile 
from  the  \dllage  of  Famatina,  to  the  W.X.W.,  on  the 
road  to  the  Cerro  Negro.     The  ores  are  amalgamated 


171 

by  the  new  system  of  Kronske,  recently  introduced 
from  Copiapo  (Chili)  by  a  young  Chilian  associate  of  the 
proprietors.  It  consists  of  four  large  barrels,  capable 
of  reducing  nine  tons  of  ore  in  24  hours,  and  a  vat  for 
washing ;  the  motive  power  for  the  whole  being  a  vertical 
overshot  water-wheel  12  feet  in  diameter  and  5  feet 
breast.  The  system  is  simple  and  efficacious.  The 
process  of  reduction  only  lasts  from  four  to  six  hours, 
and  the  ley  of  silver  and  gold  held  by  the  ore  is  almost 
entirely  extracted. 

The  great  advantage  of  this  system  is  the  reduction 
by  it  of  "  cold  "  ores,  or  those  whose  ley  previously  could 
only  be  extracted  by  means  of  smelting.  As  the  details 
of  the  process  were  communicated  to  me  under  reserve, 
I  am  precluded  from  entering  into  particulars,  and  limit 
myself  to  stating  that,  with  the  use  of  mercury,  sulphu- 
ric acid,  sulphate  of  copper,  salt,  zinc,  lead,  and  metallic 
copper,  assisted  by  steam,  the  ley  of  the  ore  is  extracted ; 
that  is  to  say,  when  the  operation  is  well  managed  and 
the  class  of  ore  is  properly  determined  by  analysis. 
When,  however,  these  essential  particulars  are  disre- 
garded the  results  are  of  a  very  negative  character. 

In  such  cases,  the  mercury  flours,  and  being  thus  de- 
composed is  altogether  lost.  At  the  beginning  many 
impediments  were  encountered  at  "  Za  Compania " 
from  this  cause,  as  the  young  Chilian,  before  referred 
to,  who  had  charge  of  the  machinery,  did  not  possess 
the  necessary  knowledge  for  the  analyzation  of  ores,  and 
was  ignorant  of  the  treatment  to  which  the  different 
classes  should  be  subjected. 

As  the  machinery  had  been  erected  a  very  short  time 
previous  to  my  visit,  only  a  few  tons  of  tailings  had  been 
beneficiated.     These  are  found  in  large  quantities  on 


172 

the  spot,  which  had  formerly  been  the  site  of  an  old  re- 
duction works  on  the  South  American  system,  or  the 
direct  amalgamation  of  "warm"  ores.  These  tailings, 
(which  are  at  least  1,800  tons)  hold  about  35  ounces  of 
silver  to  the  ton.  In  the  experiments  tried  upon  a  few 
tons,  about  518  ounces  of  fine  silver  had  been  extracted, 
and,  judging  by  these  results,  this  enterprise  should  prove 
most  lucrative.  The  tailings  only  cost  about  10s.  per 
ton.  The  scarcity  of  labour,  and  especially  of  skilled 
workmen,  renders  it  very  difficult  to  carry  out  metal- 
lurgical operations  requiring  such  delicacy  and  precision 
in  their  manipulation. 

Firewood  abounds  in  the  vicinity,  and  costs  6s.  8d. 
per  perch  of  16  cubic  yards.  Water  and  pasture  are 
abundant.  The  freight  of  the  ore  from  mines  to  the 
establishment  is  about  23s.  per  ton. 

The  capital  invested  up  to  the  date  of  my  visit  was 
about  £2,000,  but  £1,000  more  would  be  required  to 
complete  the  establishment,  and  place  it  in  a  position  to 
work  with  profit. 

The  Durazno  establishment,  belonging  to  Don  Ula- 
dislao  Gordillo,  is  situated  about  three  leagues  further 
westward,  on  the  same  stream  as  the  "Comj)afiia,"  and 
on  the  road  to  the  Cerro  Negro.  This  is  the  oldest  re- 
ducing works  in  Famatina,  but  operations  there  were 
almost  suspended  at  the  time  of  my  visit,  as  only  a  little 
ore,  extracted  by  the  owner  from  his  mines,  was  being 
treated.  It  consists  of  a  well-mounted  Chilian  mill  or 
edge-rumier  of  granite,  and  two  barrels,  the  latter  almost 
totally  unserviceable.  In  these,  attempts  were  being 
made  to  extract  silver  by  using  sulphate  of  copper  in 
solution,  similar  to  the  Compaiiia,  but  without  eff'ect. 
The  site  is  admirably  adapted  for  works  on  a  large 


173 

scale  as  it  possesses  sufficient  water  for  machinery  equal 
to  50-horse  power;  abundance  of  firewood  and  pasture 
also  exists. 

There  are  about  1,500  tons  of  old  tailings  lying  here, 
and  the  remains  of  the  old  patio^  or  Mexican  system  of 
amalgamation,  are  plainly  discernable.  This  system  was 
used  in  former  years,  by  the  first  miners,  but  is  now 
almost  becoming:  obsolete.  From  the  mines  the  car- 
riage  of  ores  to  this  place  is  17s.  per  ton,  and  the  dis- 
tance from  Cerro  Negro  is  about  seven  leagues,  or  a 
day's  journey  for  loaded  pack  mules. 

Two  other  establishments  exist  on  the  same  stream, 
called  respectively  the  Candelaria^  where  a  Chilian  mill 
forms  the  only  machinery  erected,  and  the  San  Rafael ; 
both  are  in  a  state  of  complete  dilapidation,  and  almost 
abandoned  as  respects  metalurgical  operations. 

A  Frenchman,  however,  was  about  to  erect  some  new 
machinery  at  San  Rafael. 

About  six  leagues  north  from  the  village  of  Chilecito, 
are  situated  the  following  works : 

The  Corrales  belonging  to  Don  Jose  Barros  Ca- 
sales,  located  close  by  the  road  descending  from  La 
Mejicana^  on  an  abundant  stream  of  water,  and  distant 
seven  leagues  from  the  mines.  Its  machinery  consists 
of  four  barrels,  each  capable  of  holding  3  cwts.  of  ore, 
and  one  Chilian  mill,  all  driven  by  two  water-wheels. 
There  were  about  390  tons  of  tailings  lying  about  in 
heaps,  holding  about  24  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton. 
Some  ores  were  being  treated,  but  as  they  contained  a 
large  proportion  of  sulpho-antimonide  of  silver,  the  re- 
sults were  not  satisfactory.  The  mercury  was  floured, 
sickened,  and  consequently  lost.  I  was  assured  that 
the  loss  of  this  reagent  was  equal  to  700  per  cent,  or 


174 

for  every  740  ounces  of  silver  extracted,  about  5,180 
ounces  of  mercury  were  lost. 

Four  men  were  employed,  and  the  system  in  practice 
was  the  old  one  of  treating  the  ore  by  simple  amalgama- 
tion, without  calcination  or  the  use  of  reagents.  A 
German,  Mr.  Theodore  Schroder,  had  rented  the  works, 
in  partnership  with  a  countryman  of  his  recently  from 
Copiapo,  Mr.  Charles  Silverbach,  a  practical  man,  ap- 
parently well  acquainted  with  the  new  Kronske  sys- 
tem of  amalgamation.  I  believe  their  efforts  will  prove 
successful  and  profitable  results  be  obtained.  Barros 
Casales  had  invested  about  £1,150  in  the  construc- 
tion of  the  works. 

The  Escaleras  reducing  establishment  is  on  the  same 
road,  a  league  lower  down  the  stream ;  it  belongs  to 
Messrs.  Soage  Hermanos,  and  is  at  present  rented  to 
Don  Ignacio  Moreno,  and  consists  of  a  Chilian  grinding 
mill  and  four  barrels,  each  capable  of  working  off  3  cwts. 
of  ore  at  a  charge. 

The  system  in  practice  here  differs  from  those  followed 
in  the  other  establishments,  inasmuch  as  the  "  cold  " 
ores  are  calcined  with  salt  in  a  reverberatory  furnace, 
thus  chlorinising  a  great  part  of  the  silver,  and  convert- 
ing it  into  a  state  fitted  for  amalgamation  without  the 
loss  of  so  large  a  quantity  of  mercury ;  in  these  works  the 
loss  does  not  exceed  100  per  cent.  But  even  this  serious 
disadvantage  could  be  obviated  by  mixing  the  ores  with 
iron  or  copper  pyrites,  and  calcming  them  carefully  on 
the  Freyberg  system.  I  explained  this  to  Seiior  Moreno, 
who,  more  intelligent  than  his  neighbours,  proposed 
making  experiments,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  his  efforts  in 
this  direction  will  prove  successful.  The  works  of  this 
gentleman  are  the  best  arranged  and  managed  of  any  in 


175 

Famatina.  In  the  year  1868,  he  extracted  about  3,700 
ounces  of  silver,  and  from  January  to  March,  1869,  he 
had  obtained  740  ounces.  It  is  about  three  leagues 
distant  from  the  Villa  de  Famatina.  Eight  men  are 
employed,  and  the  capital  invested  is  about  £1,166,  in- 
cluding mines  and  reduction  works.  About  13  J  tons 
of  ore  were  in  the  ore  yard,  dressed,  holding  100  ounces, 
and  about  150  tons  of  tailings,  holding  30  ounces  to  the 
ton. 

The  great  loss  of  mercury  sustained  in  the  reduction 
works  in  Famatina,  is  the  chief  cause  of  their  non-suc- 
cess. This  article  costs  there  about  6s.  8d.  per  lb.,  and 
if  we  take  into  account  the  quantity  of  silver  produced 
annually,  and  the  proportion  which  is  wasted  or  irre- 
trievably lost,  together  with  the  average  loss  of  400 
per  cent,  of  mercury,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  total  is  a 
very  serious  and  important  figure  to  their  debit. 

I  have  been  enabled  to  ascertain,  from  data  collected 
amongst  the  traders  who  purchase  bar-silver  from 
"  pirquineros  "  and  reduction  works  in  the  district,  that 
the  annual  quantity  is  not  less  than  59,200  ounces. 
Taking  the  loss  on  this  at  40  per  cent,  and  400  per  cent, 
of  mercury,  the  total  would  represent  23,680  ounces  of 
silver,  whose  value  there  would  be  about  £6,500,  and 
16,000  lbs.,  or  a  further  £5,400,  in  mercury,  all  of  which 
is  sacrificed  to  ignorance  and  carelessness. 

COPPER  SMELTING  WORKS  OF  VALDEZ  &  ALVARADO. 

These  are  located  in  the  village  of  Famatina,  and  con- 
sist of  a  reverberatory  furnace  for  smelting  argentiferous 
copper  ores  and  forming  regulus.  The  furnace  is  14 
feet  long  by  7  wide,  inside  measurement,  and  its  stack 
is  14  feet  in  height.    It  is  badly  constructed  of  refrac- 


176 

tory  silicious  sandstone,  not  at  all  suitable  for  copper 
furnaces. 

The  works  had  only  been  three  months  in  operation, 
and  had  produced  100  tons  of  regulus  with  10.30  per 
cent,  of  copper,  0.62  per  cent,  of  silver,  and  0.003  per 
cent,  of  gold.  These  figures  show  that  the  reduction 
process  had  not  been  properly  directed,  and  that  the 
percentage  of  copper  is  too  low  to  leave  a  profit  on  the 
exportation  of  the  regulus.  A  remittance  sent  to 
Europe,  I  was  informed  by  Sefior  Alvarado,  only 
realized  £2 1  per  ton,  a  price  totally  inadequate  to  cover 
even  the  cost  of  carriage,  &c.  The  ores  are  exceedingly 
ferrugineous,  and  highly  charged  with  sulphur,  arsenic, 
and  antimony.  The  greater  part  of  these  substances 
ought  to  be  removed  by  repeated  calcination,  and  the 
oxidised  residuum,  smelted  with  the  addition  of  silica 
(sand  or  quartz),  to  get  rid  of  the  excess  of  iron  present, 
forming  a  silicate  thereof,  and  producing  copper  regu- 
lus of  a  high  ley,  and  with  a  much  larger  percentage 
of  silver  and  gold. 

Instead  of  doing  this,  oxide  of  iron,  in  the  proportion 
of  25  per  cent.,  is  added  to  the  charge,  which  of  course 
combines  with  the  sulphur,  arsenic,  and  antimony  already 
existing  in  excess  in  the  ores,  and  forming  a  ferrugineous 
regulus  of  the  latter,  thereby  reduces  the  ley  for  copper 
and  the  precious  metals. 

The  following  ores  were  in  stock,  viz.,  75  tons  oftail- 
ino-s,  holding  24  ounces  to  the  ton ;  60  tons,  holding  60 
ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton ;  about  48  tons  of  regulus, 
holding  25  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton,  with  a  trace  of 
gold. 

Owing  to  litigation  amongst  the  partners,  the  works 
were  paralysed  at  the  time  of  my  visit. 


177' 

REDUCTION"  OF  ARGENTIFEROUS  LEAD  ORES. 

The  works  of  Lancel  Marozovski  and  Co.,  constructed 
for  the  reduction  of  plumbiferous  ores,  are  located  seven 
leagues  to  the  south  of  the  town  of  Famatina.  They 
consist  of  a  reverberatory  furnace,  a  blast  furnace  and 
one  for  refining,  identical  with  those  of  La  Huerta, 
in  San  Juan.  Unfortunately  this  enterprise  was  unsuc- 
cessful for  want  of  proper  ores,  i.e.^  galena,  or  sulphates 
or  carbonates  of  lead,  and  in  consequence  failure  ensued 
before  reduction  operations  had  properly  commenced. 
They  are  now  stopped  and  abandoned.  Their  cost  was 
£2,300.  Firewood  and  water  are  abundant.  Firebricks 
of  a  very  refractory  and  superior  description  had  been 
manufactured  of  clay  found  in  the  neighbourhood. 

The  greater  part  of  the  silver  extracted  in  Famatina 
owes  its  origin  to  the  pirquineros — poor  erratic 
miners — who  go  to  the  Sierra  with  their  saddle-bags 
full  of  provisions,  and,  so  long  as  these  last,  work  upon 
the  surface  of  the  numerous  virgin  veins  and  others 
already  discovered.  When  they  have  filled  their  bags 
with  ores  of  a  high  ley — at  times  semi-bar  silver — they 
immediately  descend  to  their  ranchos^  or  mud  dwellings, 
where,  assisted  by  their  wives  and  children,  they  grind 
those  fragments  of  ore  between  two  stones  after  the 
fashion  of  the  Indians.  The  ore  is  then  calcined  in 
earthen  pots  with  salt,  and,  when  in  fit  state  for  amal- 
gamation, is  removed,  to  be  thrown  upon  the  '''"patio ^' 
or  circular  enclosure  on  the  floor,  paved  with  flat  stones. 
Water  and  sulphate  of  copper  {magistral)  being  added, 
the  mass  is  trodden  under  foot  and  mixed  and  stirred 
incessantly  for  several  days,  in  contact  with  mercury, 
until  the  "beneficio"  is  known  to  be  complete  and  the 
silver  is  all  taken  up  in  the  amalgam.     The  mass  is  then 


178 

washed  in  large  iron  pots,  and  the  particles  of  mer- 
cury collected  carefully  and  strained  through  a  canvas 
cloth.  The  silver  amalgam  remains,  and  the  mercury 
which  passes  through  the  cloth  serves  for  subsequent 
use.  The  pella^  or  amalgam,  is  afterwards  burned  in 
-the  fire,  until  the  silver  remains  pure  and  white,  in 
which  process  almost  the  wholo  of  the  mercury  is  lost, 
the  proportion  being  as  six  to  one. 

About  80  pirquineros  were  engaged  in  these  primitive 
operations,  and  between  them  and  the  reduction  works 
already  referred  to  about  59,200  ounces  of  silver  are 
produced  annually,  the  value  of  which  may  be  estimated 
at  £16,000. 

The  celebrated  nickel  mine — La  Solitaria — discovered 
by  the  brothers  Erdmann  (Germans),  in  the  year  1845, 
is  situated  in  the  district  of  Buichina,  and  in  the  ravine 
of  Jague. 

These  gentlemen  came  from  Copiap6,  where  they  had 
metallurgical  and  mming  establishments,  but  had  only 
been  working  the  nickel  lode  for  a  few  months  when 
they  were  called  upon  to  appear  before  the  then 
Governor  of  Rioja,  who  informed  them  that  he  had 
received  instructions  and  commands  from  the  tyrant 
Rosas,  prohibiting  foreigners  working  mines  in  the 
country,  and  peremptorily  ordered  them  to  leave  the 
Republic  within  a  specified  time. 

Messrs.  Erdmann  had  therefore  no  other  course  open 
to  them  but  to  sell  the  mme,  which  they  did  for  £1,000, 
and  went  back  to  Chili.  Learning  some  years  after- 
wards (when  Rosas  no  longer  governed)  that  the  mine 
was  abandoned,  they  returned  to  find  it  full  of  water  and 
the  lode  gutted  on  the  surface.  Nevertheless,  with 
considerable  perseverance  and  energy,  they  succeeded 


179 

in  removing  the  water  sufficiently  to  reach  the  lower 
levels,  but  there  the  vein  was  found  less  than  a  foot  in 
width,  and,  from  the  quantity  of  water  still  present  and 
coming  into  the  mme,  the  enterprise  could  not  be  pro- 
fitably followed  up.  The  mine  was  consequently 
abandoned  by  them  a  second  time,  and  is  now  full  of 
water. 

During  the  few  months  this  mine  was  worked  by 
Messrs.  Erdmann,  (in  the  beginning)  they  extracted  ores 
to  the  value  of  £8,000.  The  ore  is  an  arsenide,  holding 
36  per  cent,  of  nickel,  which  is  increased  to  60  per  cent, 
by  calcination.  Notwithstanding  careful  search  having 
been  made  in  all  directions  for  new  beneficio  on  the 
surface  of  the  lode,  no  indications  of  ore  have  been  dis- 
covered. The  lode  on  the  surface,  and  to  a  depth  of  15 
fathoms,  was  a  yard  m  width,  in  pure  ore,  but  it  is  now 
regarded  as  having  been  a  bunch  confined  to  one  spot, 
since  they  have  not  been  able  to  find  more  in  any  other 
direction.  It  was  generally  believed  that  the  Fama- 
tina  ores  of  the  Cerro  Mejicana  contained  nickel  in  large 
quantities,  but  not  even  traces  have  been  found  in  the 
numerous  samples  examined,  whether  by  myself,  or 
Seiior  Schickendantz,  the  metallurgical  chemist  of 
Mr.  Lafone's  establishment  in  Pilciao.  I  am  not 
surprised  that  such  a  belief  should  be  prevalent 
amongst  the  miners,  since  it  is  easy  to  be  misled  and 
deceived  by  the  cupriferous  arsenides  of  iron  of  Fama- 
tina.  This  illusion,  however,  is  speedily  dispelled  when 
the  ore  is  submitted  to  the  test  of  re-agents  in  the 
laboratory. 

With  respect  to  carboniferous  deposits  in  this  province, 
I  refer  the  reader  to  my  remarks  on  this  subject  in  re- 
porting on  the   Province  San  Juan,  reiterating  my  firm 


180 

conviction  that  vast  coal  fields  exist  both  in  Los  Llanos 
and  the  Valley  of  Binchina.  Possessing,  as  we  do,  such 
immense  deposits  of  iron  ore,  in  addition  to  these  exten- 
sive carboniferous  beds,  we  may  reasonably  entertain 
hopes  that,  with  the  lapse  of  time  and  the  continuance 
of  peace,  these  two  powerful  elements  of  civilization  and 
progress  will  at  length  be  utilized,  to  the  great  aggran- 
disement and  advantage  of  the  Republic. 

As  already  stated,  the  roads  in  the  mineral  district  of 
Famatina  are  almost  intransitable,  and  a  heavy  expendi- 
ture would  be  necessary  to  render  them  convenient  and 
safe.  About  £1,500  would  be  required  to  make  the 
road  from  Chilecito  to  Cerro  Negro  practicable  for 
loaded  mules,  avoiding  the  beds  of  the  rivers  and  torrents, 
which  are  rough  and  stony,  to  traverse  the  slopes  of  the 
Sierra.  Roads  could  be  made  on  both  sides,  but  at 
some  places  it  would  be  necessary  to  blast  through  rock, 
and  many  deviations  and  curves  would  be  necessary.  The 
distance  from  the  town  of  Chilecito  to  the  works  of 
Durazno  is  three  leagues,  and  a  carriage  road  could 
easily  be  made ;  but  from  the  latter  point  to  the  gold 
mines  of  Santo  Domingo,  about  four  leagues,  it  would 
be  comparatively  impracticable  to  do  more  than  con- 
struct a  path  for  loaded  mules. 

From  Famatina  to  the  Sierra  of  La  Mejicana^no  great 
difficulties  are  presented,  but  it  would  nevertheless  in- 
volve an  outlay  of  about  £5,000  to  make  roads  available 
for  carriage  traffic.  A  path  for  loaded  mules,  however, 
could  be  formed  at  a  cost  of  £2,000,  the  distance  by 
Escaleras  being  ten  leagues  more  or  less.  There  is 
another  and  more  direct  route,  by  traversing  an  elevated 
ridge  in  front  of  Carrisal,  and  descending  by  Las  Cuevas 
to  form  a  junction  with  the  Escaleras  road  through  the 


181 

ravine.     The  cost  would  be  the  same,  but  the  distance 
would  be  three  leagues  less. 

It  would  be  desirable  to  make  a  track  for  loaded 
mules  between  the  mineral  district  of  Cerro  Negro  and 
that  of  La  Mejicana ;  but  the  road  between  those  points 
will  alwaj^s  be  very  steep,  rugged,  and  exceedingly  diffi- 
cult of  transit.  In  parts  it  rises  to  a  height  of  14,000 
feet,  and  falls  again  to  10,000  feet ;  this  being  of  repeated 
occurrence,  in  crossing  the  various  intervening  ranges. 
The  cost  of  a  road  thus  would  be  about  £1,000,  and 
the  distance  three  leagues. 

Besides  in  the  mineral  districts,  the  necessity  of  roads 
is  very  much  felt  to  unite  Famatina  with  the  province 
of  San  Juan,  starting  from  Jachal,  and  passing  by  Guaco, 
Paso  de  Lamar,  and  Los  Burros,  more  particularly  in- 
cluding that  from  Mu'anda  and  the  ravine  to  Safiogasta. 
The  actual  road  between  the  places  last  mentioned  is  in 
so  dangerous  a  state,  and  the  traffic  over  it  so  great, 
that,  in  the  interests  of  the  public,  its  repair  and  recon- 
struction should  be  at  once  undertaken.  The  total 
distance  between  Jachal  and  Famatina  does  not  pass  40 
leagues,  and  an  excellent  road  could  be  made  for  about 
£33  per  league. 

Another  important  road  would  be  one  from  Famatina 
to  connect  with  that  from  Cordoba  and  San  Juan. 
This  road  would  be  comparatively  level,  there  being  no 
hills  nor  obstacles  of  any  kind,  with  the  exception  of 
clearing  off  the  wood,  and  avoiding  a  few  moving  sand- 
hills. It  would  have  to  follow  the  actual  road  from 
Famatina  to  Rioja,  as  far  as  the  Sierra  of  Velasco, 
continuing  along  the  slope  of  the  latter  up  to  the  south- 
ern extremity,  where  it  should  double  the  point  and  join 
the  road  from  Rioja  to  Papagallos.       At  this  junction 


182 

there  is  no  water,  which  would  have  to  be  provided  by 
the  construction  of  a  reservoir.  Thence  it  should 
proceed  E.S.E.  to  reach  the  road  between  Soto  and  the 
reservoir  of  Los  Tellos,  on  the  Llanos.  The  contractor 
for  the  construction  of  the  road  from  Rioja  to  Papagallos, 
Don  Pedro  Gordillo,  oiFers  to  make  this  road,  of  sixteen 
yards  in  width,  stubbing  out  the  tree  roots  to  a  yard  in 
depth,  and  with  13  necessary  reservoirs  for  water,  to- 
gether with  post  huts,  for  the  sum  of  £6,250. 

The  agricultural  and  vinicultural  productions  of  Fa- 
matina  are  of  considerable  importance.  The  estimated 
population  of  the  department  is  8,000  inhabitants,  and 
these  produce  annually  500  tons  of  flour,  worth  £10 
per  ton ;  9000  fanegas  of  maize,  worth  10s.  per  fanega 
(300  lbs.).  The  grape  grown  at  Famatina  is  of  a  very 
superior  class,  producing  not  less  than  1,200,000  bottles 
of  wine  yearly,  which  sells  there  at  Is.  8d.  per  bottle ; 
but  there  is  not  consumption  for  the  whole,  and,  as  at 
Mendoza,  a  great  portion  is  manufactured  into  aguar- 
diente, or  brandy.  This  produce  alone,  it  will  be 
seen,  represents  a  large  sum  (£25,000),  which,  added 
to  the  flour  and  maize,  make  a  total  value  of  nearly 
£32,000. 

The  valley  of  Nonogasta  is  exceedingly  fertile  and 
well  populated,  with  extensive  vineyards  and  orchards, 
lucerne,  and  a  few  tobacco  plantations. 

Water  and  firewood  are  abundant,  and  every  facility 
(save  labourers),  exists  for  the  rapid  development  of 
mining  industry  in  the  department.  The  climate  is 
very  temperate  in  summer,  and  not  rigorous  in  the  win- 
ter. Famatma  was  formerly  the  scene  of  frequent  poli- 
tical revolutions,  but  it  will  be  seen  by  this  report  that 
the  chiei  Caudillos,  or  leaders  in  these  fratricidal  struggles 


183 

— Don  Carlos  Angel  and  Don  Francisco  Alvarez — have 
devoted  themselves  to  mining  and  reduction  establish- 
ments, gathering  around  them  the  most  notorious 
gauchos,  whom,  by  their  example,  they  have  converted 
into  peaceable  and  well-conducted  members  of  society, 
laborious  and  industrious  in  habits,  and  who  have  now 
no  thought  of  abandoning  their  tranquil  and  civilizing 
labours  for  the  din  of  battle  and  precarious  existence 
of  the  pampa. 


184 


PROVINCE  OF  CATAMARCA. 


GENERAL   PHYSICAL    ASPECT,   DESCRIPTION    OF    SOIL, 
CLIMATE,  &c. 

The  Province  of  Catamarca  is  situated  to  the  south  of 
that  of  Salta,  to  the  west  of  Tucuman  and  Santiago  del 
Estero,  and  to  the  north  of  Rioja.  The  boundary  by 
Chili  is  the  westerly  summit  of  the  plateau  of  the  Andes. 
It  is  thus  between  26°  20'  and  28°  30'  south  lat.,  and 
68°  to  7 1''  longitude  west  (Paris),  and  covers  a  super- 
ficial area  of  about  3,800  square  leagues.  Its  limits  to 
the  north,  and  with  the  province  of  Salta,  are  a  line 
traversing  the  heights  of  the  Nevados  of  Calchaqui,  the 
Sierra  Medanosa,  that  of  Chango  Real,  opening  to  the 
north  of  the  valley  Laguna  Blanca,  touching  Paso  de  San 
Francisco,  where  it  meets  to  the  north-west  the  frontier  of 
Bolivia,  and  on  the  west  that  of  Chili.  To  the  south  it  is 
separated  from  the  province  of  Rioja  by  another  line, 
which,  parting  from  the  Chilian  frontier  to  Cerro  Pulido, 
traverses  the  plateau  of  the  Andes  by  Laguna  Brava, 
descends  the  Estanzuela,  the  range  of  Machaco,  the 
southern  border  of  the  valleys  of  the  Tamberia  and  of 
Cienega  Redonda;  then  following  the  crest  of  the  moun- 
tains of  Tinogasta,  passes  by  the  undulations  of  Cerrillos, 


185 

the  great  travesia  of  Los  Colorados,  of  Alpasinclie,  and 
of  Machigasta,  up  to  the  gorge  of  Chumbicha,  and  con- 
tinuing towards  E.S.E.  until  it  touches  the  great  basin 
of  the  SaHnas,  near  29'^  40'  lat.  and  67^^  long. 

To  the  north-east  its  frontier  with  Tucuman  is  marked 
by  the  Baiiado  of  the  Abra  de  Santa  Maria,  the  summit 
of  the  Sierra  of  the  lower  range  of  the  Aconquija  and 
Rio  de  Guacra,  or  San  Francisco.  Finally,  to  the  east, 
it  joins  Santiago  del  Estero  by  a  line  marked  by  estancias, 
and  running  at  the  eastern  base  of  the  Ancaste  range,  in 
more  or  less  longitude  67^,  or  up  to  the  Rio  Albigasta. 

These  lines  of  demarcation  are  those  which  are  gene- 
rally recognised,  but  frequently  questions  arise  as  to 
their  accuracy  on  the  part  of  the  authorities  of  the  pro- 
vinces of  Tucuman  and  Santiago  del  Estero,  who  assert 
that  Catamarca  holds  unlawfully  a  portion  of  their  terri- 
tory, and  that  its  limits  are  not  quite  those  assigned  to 
it  by  the  Royal  decree  of  16th  August,  1679,  and  the 
survey  ordered  by  the  municipality  of  Catamarca  on  the 
11th  February,  1684.  On  the  other  hand,  the  people  of 
Catamarca  claim  that  the  occupation  of  the  Canton  of 
Colalao  by  Tucuman  is  unjust;  also  the  occupation  by 
Santiago  del  Estero  of  a  part  of  the  mountain  range  of 
Ancaste.  The  only  arbiter  in  questions  of  limits  in  the 
provinces  is  the  Supreme  Congress,  and  the  question  is 
now  being  discussed  with  the  view  to  a  final  settlement. 

The  province  of  Catamarca  presents  a  varied  and 
picturesque  aspect.  The  northern  part  is  covered  by 
mountains,  Avhich  enclose  narrow  gorges  and  some  ex- 
tensive valleys,  amongst  the  latter  the  Campo  de  los 
Pozuelos,  at  the  western  base  of  the  Aconquija  range. 
Nearing  the  Cordillera,  the  valleys  are  extensive  and 
comparatively  level;  towards   the   south-east   a   great 


186 

plain,  called  the  Salinas  de  Belem  and  Andalgala,  unites 
with  the  great  basin  of  this  name,  which  separates  the 
Andine  system  from  the  central  range  of  the  plains. 
The  great  valley  of  the  capital,  situated  between  the 
Sierras  of  Ambato  and  Ancaste,  joins  with  the  latter. 
The  mountain  ranges  which  elevate  their  peaks  in  this 
province  gradually  merge  into  this  great  plain.  Their 
summits,  although  very  dry,  are  covered  with  a  rich 
vegetation,  and  the  numerous  streams  which  descend 
from  them,  charged  with  silt  and  various  salts,  fertilize 
prodigiously  the  soil  around  their  base. 

In  consequence  of  their  sterility,  the  plains  are  very 
sparsely  inhabited,  the  population  being  concentrated  in 
the  interior  valleys  and  along  the  base  of  the  Sierra  del 
Alto  and  Ancaste. 

This  province  does  not  possess  any  river  of  impor- 
tance, its  supply  of  water  being  confined  to  numerous 
small  streams  and  mountain  torrents,  the  whole  of  which 
is  absorbed  by  irrigation  and  domestic  use.    The  princi- 
pal watercourse  is  that  of   Santa   Maria,  then   comes 
Paclin  and  Piedra  Blanca,  which  form  the  Rio  del  Valle 
and  water  the  valley  of  the  capital.       The  torrents  of 
the  Cordillera  are  inconsiderable.    Only  one  lake  exists 
in  the  province,  that  of  Laguna  Blanca,  situated  in  a 
hio'h  valley  of  the  Cordillera ;  in  continuation  is  found 
the  Laguna  Colorada,  which  cannot  be  classified  as  a 
lake.     Both,  however,  are  salt.     They  are  bordered  by 
extensive  valleys  of  a  sandy  clay  nature,  and  the  few 
inhabitants  now  existing  there  assert  that  in  former  times 
the  district  was  thickly  populated. 

The  orographic  system  of  Catamarca  is  rather  com- 
plicated.   It  consists  of  two  grand   sections,  one  depend- 
ing- on   the  Cordillera  of  the  Andes  and  the  other  on 
o 


187 

the  range  of  Aconquija.  The  two  sections  are  united 
by  the  transverse  range  of  Atajo.  From  Aconquija, 
towards  the  S.S.E.,  stretch  away  the  long  chains  of  the 
Alto  and  Ancaste ;  the  latter,  which  is  only  a  prolonga- 
tion of  the  Alto,  is  lost  on  the  great  plain  towards  the 
Salinas.  From  the  same  range  of  Aconquija,  but  a  little 
little  more  to  the  west,  extends  the  lofty  Sierra  of  Am- 
bato,  terminating  to  the  south  in  the  hills  of  Mazan  and 
Punta  Negra,  which  connect  it  through  the  Cerrillos  with 
the  Sierra  of  Velasco  or  Eioja.  Between  the  two  chains 
of  Ambato  and  Alto  is  that  of  the  Gracian,  which 
rises  near  the  capital,  and  continues  northwards,  uniting 
with  the  Clavillo  de  Aconquija.  The  Sierra  del  Atajo 
rises  from  the  latter,  and  runs  to  the  east,  serving  as  a 
southern  boundary  to  the  great  plain  of  Los  Pozuelos 
joining  the  mass  of  the  Chango  Real  and  other  elevated 
ranges,  which  enclose  the  valleys  of  Laguna  Blanca  and 
Fiambala.  Following  towards  the  south,  it  separates 
into  two  ranges,  forming  the  Sierra  de  Belem,  which 
terminates  by  the  points  called  Cerros  Negro  and  Co- 
lorado, in  the  great  travesia  of  Copocabana  at  Machi- 
gasta.  The  mass  of  the  Andes  extends  from  the 
south  to  the  north,  with  its, high  lateral  valleys,  and  the 
subsidiary  chains  of  the  Machaco  and  Casadero  de 
Fiambala. 

The  great  diversity  in  altitude  of  the  different  parts 
of  this  province  produces  great  variation  in  the  nature 
of  the  soil  and  productions.  The  Aconquija  range  con- 
sists of  gneiss,  granite,  serpentine,  quartz,  &c.,  as  also 
the  chains  of  Alto  and  Ancaste.  The  Atajo  and  Am- 
bato ranges  are  of  the  same  character,  but  also  contain 
limestone  and  sandstone  of  various  ages.  The  Sierra  ol 
Belem  consists  of  gneiss  in  the  centre,  and  of  sandstone 


188 

towards  the  extreme  south.  Gneiss  is  found  in  the  hills 
of  Tinogasta  and  Copocabana,  and  sandstone  in  the 
eastern  buttress  of  the  great  mass  of  the  Andes,  at  the 
Sierras  of  Chango  Real  and  Medanosa,  which  on  the 
north  bound  the  valleys  of  the  Laguna  Blanca  and  the 
great  plain  of  Los  Pozuelos.  Towards  the  Punta  de 
Balastro  traces  of  volcanic  action  are  ^asible.  All  the 
mountainous  region  is  rich'  in  metallic  deposits — gold, 
silver,  copper,  nickel,  iron,  and  lead.  Several  mines  are 
at  work,  especially  in  the  Sierra  del  Atajo,  and  with 
profitable  results.  Of  these  I  will  speak  in  their  proper 
place. 

Some  valleys  are  entirely  sandy,  such  as  Laguna 
Blanca,  the  great  plains  Los  Pozuelos,  vast  circular 
plains  between  the  chains  of  Quilmez,  Aconquija,  and 
Atajo,  at  a  mean  altitude  of  2,500  metres,  incessantly 
swept  by  the  wind,  which,  when  it  blows  from  the  north 
or  north-west,  raises  a  whirlwind  of  fine  silicious  sand 
from  the  Sierra  Medanosa.  The  immense  basin  of  the 
Salmas  of  Belem  and  Andalgala  is  sandy  clay,  and  con- 
tains in  many  places,  especially  towards  the  centre, 
numerous  efilorescences.  All  those  plains  are  arid,  as 
rain  seldom  falls,  but  on  their  borders,  towards  the 
mountains,  small  rivulets  are  utilized  and  produce  a 
luxuriant  vegetation.  The  eastern  slopes  of  the  Sierras 
of  Alto  and  Ancaste  have  a  rich  vegetable  earth,  and 
yield  some  trees  and  abundant  pasture. 

The  climate  varies  in  accordance  with  altitude  and 
locality,  being  pre-eminently  dry  in  the  region  of 
the  Andes,  and  becomes  humid  in  the  valleys  at 
the  base  of  the  Aconquija,  towards  the  south-east. 
At  an  elevation  of  1,000  metres  frost  is  rare ;  above  this 
elevation  it  freezes  in  winter.     The  summit  of  the  prin- 


189 

cipal  range  of  Aconquija  is  covered  with  perpetual  snow. 
The  Sierras  of  Ambato  and  Atajo  retain  it  only  for  a 
short  time;  those  of  the  Alto,  Ancaste,  and  Belem 
almost  never.  The  line  of  perpetual  snow  commences 
at  4,500  metres  in  the  Cordillera  of  Catamarca;  the 
snowy  peaks  of  Potro  and  Bonete  are  situate  in  this 
province.  The  lower  valleys,  i.e.^  those  below  1,000 
metres,  are  extremely  hot  in  summer ;  the  desert  about 
the  Salinas  of  Belem  and  Andalgala  is  scorching,  but 
happily,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mountains,  refreshing 
breezes  descend  and  cool  the  atmosphere.  The  winds 
are  sometimes  very  strong,  especially  those  from  the 
north  to  the  south,  and  create  fearful  whirlwmds  of 
dust.  The  rainy  season  is  in  the  summer,  from  Decem- 
ber to  March.  Rain  is  rare  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  Cordillera,  the  clouds  passing  over,  which  are  attracted 
by  the  range  of  Aconquija  farther  to  the  east,  and  con- 
sequently rain  falls  copiously  on  its  slopes  and  the  plains 
at  its  base. 

The  salubrity  of  the  province  is  perfect.  There  are 
no  peculiar  maladies  and  no  other  epidemics  than  those 
common  to  the  provinces  of  the  Andes.  Mild  intermit- 
tent fevers  are  sometimes  prevalent  in  the  humid  valleys 
of  Piedra  Blanca  and  Paclin.  The  goitre  prevails  in 
some  of  the  valleys,  especially  that  of  the  capital. ' 

Vegetation  is  meagre  and  stunted  in  the  region 
of  the  Andes,  being  limited  to  cacti,  to  the  various  mi- 
mosas, such  as  algarrobo,  the  visco,  the  chanar,  the  brea, 
the  jarilla,  &c.  In  the  humid  valleys  vegetation  is 
similar  to  that  of  Tucuman — the  wild  walnut,  cedar, 
laurel,  pacard,  &c.,grow  well,  but  do  not  attain  the  same 
magnitude  as  in  that  province.  Grass  is  abundant  on 
the  plateau  and  slopes  of  the  Alto  and  Ancaste.    Where 


190 

there  is  a  little  moisture  the  natural  vegetation  is 
vigorous  and  almost  tropical,  but  this  humidity  is  rare 
and  its  absence  is  the  cause  of  the  sterility  of  the  plains 
and  the  stunted  growth  of  their  vegetation, 

Agriculture,  where  practised  in  the  province,  with 
the  aid  of  irrigation  and  on  the  rich  deep  vegetable  soil, 
is  prolific  in  the  extreme.  The  fruit  trees  and  her- 
baceous plants  prosper  admirably.  The  orange,  fig, 
vine,  peach,  olive,  and,  in  fact,  all  the  trees  of  central 
Europe  mature  and  produce  abundantly.  The  wines 
made  in  the  department  of  Andalgald  are  justly  esteemed 
for  their  excellence.  Tobacco  and  cotton  of  a  superior 
quality  are  cultivated,  as  also  the  sugar  cane  near  the 
capital.  All  these  productions  are  consumed  in  the 
province.  Wheat  and  maize  yield  a  large  return. 
Lucerne  is  cultivated  on  an  extended  scale,  principally 
in  the  western  districts,  with  the  object  of  fattening 
cattle  for  export  to  Chili. 

The  wild  and  domestic  animals  of  the  province  are  of 
the  same  species  as  those  of  Cordoba  and  Santiago  del 
Estero,  which  I  will  describe  later  on.  The  vicuna 
and  the  guanaco  abound  in  the  mountains  to  the  north- 
west, which  are  also  frequented  by  the  couguar  and  con- 
dor. The  conformation  of  the  province,  with  its  high 
mountains  and  vast  arid  plains,  is  unfavourable  to  the 
existence  of  many  wild  animals.  Cattle  are  numerous 
and  multiply  rapidly  in  the  departments  of  the  east, 
where  grass  is  plentiful  and  of  excellent  quality.  Alto 
and  Ancaste  furnish  horned  cattle  for  all  the  province. 
The  animals  for  export  by  the  Cordillera  are  fattened 
in  the  lucerne  fields  at  Tinogasta  and  CojDOcabana  before 
beino-  driven  across  the  Andes.  Asses  and  mules  are 
bred  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Laguna  Blanca.     Sheep 


191 


and  goats  are  met  with  everywhere.  The  indigenous 
race  of  sheep  are  naturally  good,  and  little  at  present  is 
done  for  its  improvement.  The  breeding  of  the 
vicuiia  and  alpaca  might  become  very  lucrative  in  this 
province. 

The  isolated  position  of  Catamarca  makes  its  export 
trade  very  insignificant.  Cotton  is  little  cultivated, 
owing  to  the  expense  of  transport,  and  tobacco  is  only 
produced  in  small  quantities  for  Chili.  The  cultivation 
of  this  plant  might  be  advantageously  extended,  since 
that  of  Tucuman,  60  leagues  more  distant,  is  sold  pro- 
fitably in  the  market  of  Copiapo.  Among  the  other 
products  dry  figs  are  exported,  which  are  very  good, 
and  the  aji^  or  red  pepper,  which  is  of  superior  quality. 
In  addition,  the  wines  and  brandies  produced  in  Andal- 
gald  find  a  ready  inarket  in  Tucuman  and  Cordoba, 
forming  an  important  item.  Bullocks,  sheep,  goats, 
and  mules  are  exported  to  Chili.  The  commerce  with 
Bolivia  is  limited  to  the  exportation  of  mules.  As  to 
local  industry,  it  is  fairly  advanced  and  resembles  that 
of  Tucuman.  Some  woollen  stuff's,  such  as  cloth  for 
ponchos,  horse  covers,  and  very  tasteful  foot  rugs  are 
manufactured  by  the  women  in  the  department  of  the 
capital.  In  Andalgala  hides  are  tanned  and  embroi- 
dery is  largely  produced.  The  women  are  very  active 
and  industrious,  and  manufacture  nearly  all  the  preced- 
ing, and,  in  addition,  have  acquired  their  well-earned 
celebrity  for  the  excellence  and  beauty  of  the  woven 
fabrics  produced  from  the  wool  of  the  vicuna  at  Belem. 
An  ordinary  scarf  for  a  lady  fetches  readily  in  Buenos 
Ayres  from  £20  to  £30,  and  would  no  doubt  be  highly 
appreciated  in  Europe  if  once  introduced.  The  most 
important  product  for  export,  and  most  valuable  in- 


192 

dustry  in  the  province,  is  the  raising  of  copper  from  the 
mines  of  the  Sierra  de  Atajo,  which  has  produced  much 
enthusiasm  among  all  classes,  and  tends  to  develope  a 
spirit  of  union  and  activity  hitherto  unknown. 

Owing  to  the  peculiar  position  of  the  mountain 
ranges,  interior  communication  in  the  province  is  only 
eifected  on  horseback.  The  capital  is  connected  with 
Rioja,  a  distance  of  49  leagues,  by  carriage  road,  and 
also  with  Cordoba,  a  distance  of  118  leagues  to  the 
south-east.  The  last  route  traverses  the  Salinas  for  28 
leagues  without  water,  being  the  most  difficult  part  of 
the  whole  journey.  Weekly  mail  communication  by 
coach  is  now  established,  and  by  this  means  intercom- 
munication with  Tucuman  and  Santiago  del  Estero  via 
Cordoba  is  effected;  but  direct  communication  with 
those  two  towns  is  provided  by  mule  tracks  through 
the  valley  of  Paclin,  crossing  the  range  of  Ancaste  by 
the  pass  of  Totoral.  The  distance  to  both  cities  is 
almost  equal,  or  about  65  leagues.  Salta  and  Jujuy 
may  be  reached  by  the  route  of  Andalgala  and  Santa 
Maria,  but  the  distance  is  the  same  by  way  of  Tucu- 
man, namely,  155  leagues.  From  Belem  to  Andalgala 
or  Poman  the  distance  is  30  leagues  over  the  Salinas. 
The  route  from  the  capital  to  Belem,  traverses  the 
southern  extremity  of  the  Sierra  de  Ambato  by  the 
gorge  of  La  Concepcion;  passing  Poman,  it  traverses 
the  desert — about  in  all  60  leagues.  By  this  route  one 
can  go  direct  to  Tinogasta  (70  leagues),  and  to  the 
Andes,  by  the  desert  at  the  point  of  Los  Colorados  and 
Capocabana,  The  road  from  Chili  passes  by  Tinogasta, 
Anillaco,  La  Troya,  La  Tamberia,  Machaco,  Cordillera 
of  the  Estanzuela,  and  Barrancas  Blancas.  The  distance 
is  133  leagues  from  Tmogasta  to  Copiapo.     The  route 


193 

from  Belem  to  the  former  is  22  leagues,  passing  by  the 
cuesta^  or  zig-zag  track  of  Zapata,  which  could  be  easily 
improved. 

The  province  of  Catamarca  is  divided  into  eight  de- 
partments, which  are  subdivided  into  sections  and  dis- 
tricts. The  first  is  that  of  the  capital,  including  the 
town  proper  and  its  suburbs,  forming  two  sections,  the 
one  to  the  south  called  "  Capallan,"  the  other  to  the 
west  called  "Valle  Viejo."  Then  comes  the  depart- 
ment of  Piedra  Blanca  to  the  north  of  the  capital,  be- 
tween the  two  great  eastern  spurs  of  the  Clavillo  de 
Aconquija,  Ambato,  and  Gracian;  those  of  Alto  and 
Ancaste,  in  the  chain  of  this  name ;  that  of  Andalgala, 
at  the  base  of  the  great  Aconquija,  to  which  is  attached 
the  section  of  Poman,  on  the  western  slope  of  the 
Sierra  de  Ambato ;  that  of  Santa  Maria  to  the  north 
of  Atajo;  that  of  Belem,  in  the  Sierra  of  the  same 
name,  and  in  the  north-west  of  the  province ;  lastly, 
Tinogasta,  to  the  west,  comprised  in  the  great  Andes. 

The  department  of  the  capital  is  situate  in  the  centre 
of  the  province,  comprising  the  broad  valley,  enclosed 
by  the  chains  of  Ambato  on  the  west,  and  Ancaste  on 
the  east.  This  is  the  most  populous  department  in  the 
province. 

The  capital  of  the  province, — San  Fernando  de  Cata- 
marca— is  situate  on  a  plain  which  slopes  gently  from 
the  foot  of  the  Sierra  de  Ambato.  It  was  at  first 
established  a  league  lower  down,  upon  the  Rio  del 
Valle,  but  was  afterwards  removed  to  its  present  site, 
to  avoid  the  inundations  caused  by  heavy  freshets  in 
the  summer.  It  is  a  pretty  little  town,  well  built  and 
watered  by  the  stream  Tala,  which  also  supplies  the 
houses.      The  gardens  are  full  of  fine  fruit  trees,  the 


194 

orange  predominating.     The  plaza,  or  principal  square, 
is  about  four  acres  in  extent,  through  which  pass  several 
small  streams  of  water.       The  centre  is  adorned  by  an 
obelisk,  or  column,  built  in  brick,  with  a  railing  round 
its  base.     The  only  public  buildings  are  the  cathedral, 
and  the  Government  house,  of  modern  construction, 
ornamental  and  well  designed.     They  join  each  other 
and  form  the  western  angle  of  the  square.     Another 
recent  work  of  great  importance  and  utility  is  a  large 
reservoir,  situate  west  of  the  plaza,  100  metres  square 
and  3  metres  deep.    The  embankments  are  well  planted 
with  trees,  which  afford  a  grateful  shade  to  the  towns- 
folk, who  promenade  there  during  the  summer.     The 
water  contained  in  this  reservoir  is  derived  from  the 
Tala  and  serves  to  irrigate  the  town  and  suburbs,  and 
rendering  productive  250  acres  of  excellent  land,  pre- 
viously uncultivated  from  scarcity  of  water.     The  sale 
of  this  land  has  covered  the  expense  of  constructing  the 
reservoir. 

The  town  of  Catamarca  has  recently  been  greatly 
improved  by  the  erection  of  a  considerable  number  of 
new  houses  and  the  restoration  of  old  ones ;  the  princi- 
pal streets  only  are  paved.  The  houses  are  generally 
built  of  "adobes,"  and  roofed  with  corrugated  tiles. 
The  modern  houses  have  flat  roofs  as  at  Buenos  Ayres. 
Besides  the  church  of  Matriz,  or  cathedral  already 
alluded  to,  there  is  another — San  Francisco — the  or- 
phan asylum  and  the  college.  The  convent  of  San 
Francisco  is  contemporary  with  the  foundation  of  the 
city,  and  is  in  a  good  state  of  preservation.  The  other 
two  religious  edifices  possess  nothing  worthy  of  special 
remark.  The  orphan  asylum  is  supported  by  revenue 
derived  from  its  lands.    The  national  college,  now  estab- 


195 

lished  there,  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Minister  of 
Public  Instruction  at  Buenos  Ayres,  is  one  of  the  most 
complete  and  best  ordered  institutions  of  its  class  in  the 
country.  Previous  to  its  incorporation  under  the 
National  Government  it  possessed  valuable  and  exten- 
sive landed  and  house  property,  which  had  been  be- 
queathed from  time  to  time  by  charitable  individuals, 
but  all  these  have  been  handed  over  in  trust  to  the 
educational  department  of  the  Government,  to  provide 
for  the  payment  of  European  and  other  professors,  and 
to  support  its  alumni.  Mathematics,  classics,  ancient  and 
modern  history,  languages,  physics,  &c.,  are  taught. 

Catamarcais  situated  in  28°  12'  south  lat.,  68°  45'  west 
long.  (Paris),  at  an  altitude  of  530  metres  above  sea 
level.  The  climate  is  hot,  the  sky  clear  about  ten 
months  in  the  year ;  it  rains  in  the  summer  only. 

The  department  of  Piedra  Blanca  is  situated  north  of 
the  preceding,  and  in  a  long  valley,  which  stretches  from 
south  to  north,  its  northern  extremity  touching  the 
Nevado  of  Aconquija.  At  its  southern  extremity  it  is 
divided  into  three  canons,  or  elongated  gorges;  these 
are  Piedra  Blanca,  Pucarilla,  and  Paclin.  The  canon 
of  Piedra  Blanca  is  situated  between  the  Sierra  de  Gra- 
cian  and  the  northern  part  of  the  range  Ambato;  it  is 
well  watered  by  the  Rio  del  Valle,  and  produces  the 
sugar  cane,  tobacco,  cotton,  and  every  species  of  fruit 
trees  in  abundance.  It  is  the  richest  and  most  beautiful, 
as  well  as  the  most  populous  valley  in  the  whole  province ; 
it  is  seven  leagues  long  and  two  broad;  the  land  is  well 
cultivated  and  studded  with  houses  and  farms.  There 
are  six  villages,  centres  of  population  with  churches — 
San  Antonio,  Callecita,  Rosario,  CoUagasta,  Pomancillo, 
and  La  Puerta. 


196 

The  canon  of  Pucarilla  is  similar  to  that  of  Piedra 
Blanca,  but  more  elevated ;  cultivation  of  wheat,  maize, 
wine,  tobacco,  and  fruit  trees  of  all  kinds  are  indus- 
triously carried  on.  In  the  highest  part  and  on  the  north- 
ern extremity  towards  Singuil,  cattle  and  sheep  are  bred 
and  fattened  in  large  quantities.  It  is  divided  into  three 
districts — Rinconda,  Bolson,  and  Singuil.  Through 
the  latter  estancia  passes  the  road  from  Catamarca  to 
Andalgala,  which  is  very  bad  and  rough  by  way  of  the 
gorge  of  La  Chilca,  but  this  is  avoided  by  taking  a  cir- 
cuitous route  a  little  to  the  southward,  and  passing  by 
the  Carapunco  and  the  hamlet  of  Billavil, 

The  canon  Paclin,  commencing  at  Portezuelo,  is  humid 
and  woody ;  its  river  waters,  in  addition  to  this  valley, 
the  districts  of  Portezuelo,  of  Santa  Cruz,  and  of  Guay- 
camas,  which  belong  to  the  department  of  the  capital. 
The  route  from  Catamarca  to  Tucuman  passes  through 
it,  but  branches  off  at  Merced  to  ascend  the  zig-zag 
track  over  the  Totoral  and  gain  the  eastern  slopes  of 
the  Ancaste  range.  The  cultivation  is  principally  of 
the  cereals,  tobacco,  and  the  rearing  of  cattle. 

The  department  of  the  Alto  occupies  all  the  Sierra  of 
this  name  to  the  frontier  of  Tucuman  and  Santiago  del 
Estero;  it  is  not  very  elevated,  and  is  everywhere 
covered  with  excellent  pastures  and  lovely  forests  on  its 
easterly  slopes.  Cereals  are  little  cultivated,  the  prin- 
cipal occupation  being  the  rearing  of  cattle — bullocks, 
horses,  sheep,  goats,  and  especially  mules.  Agriculture 
is  followed  to  some  extent  in  the  little  open  valleys  upon 
its  eastern  base.  There  are  also  some  tamieries  where 
laro-e  quantities  of  rough  leather  for  saddlery  and  har- 
ness are  produced. 

This  department  is  divided  into  two :  the  mountain, 


197 

with  three  districts,  iiichiding  the  parish  and  hamlets 
of  Alto,  Guayamba,  and  Balismano,  having  its  church; 
the  plain,  into  three  districts — village  of  Manantiales, 
with  its  church,  and  the  estancias  of  Obanta  and  Las 
Cafias,  situated  on  the  borders  of  a  small  crystaline 
stream  whose  waters  are  consumed  entirely  by  irrigation. 

The  department  of  Ancaste  resembles  the  preceding 
one,  having  the  same  cultures,  the  same  products,  and 
occupations.  It  is  situated  to  the  south-east  of  the  most 
easterly  branch  of  the  Aconquija  range,  and  has  one 
part  in  the  Sierra  and  the  other  on  the  plain.  In  the 
mountain  there  are  three  districts, — Ancaste  parish, 
Icafia,  and  Motegasta,  with  their  respective  churches. 
On  the  plain  there  are  five,  the  village  of  San  Francisco, 
estancias  of  Chorro  and  Ramblon,  Rosario,  with  its 
church,  and  the  hamlet  of  Anjule. 

The  department  of  the  Fuerte  de  Andalgala,  so  named 
after  an  ancient  Spanish  fort  placed  in  the  midst  of 
the  country  of  the  Andalgalas  Indians,  one  of  the  bravest 
of  the  Calchaquies  tribes.  It  is  situate  at  the  southern 
base  of  the  Nevado  de  Aconquija,  and  whence,  to  the 
eastward,  rises  the  Ambato  range ;  it  is  on  the  border  of 
the  vast  saline  desert,  and  embraces  the  valleys  Atajo 
to  the  north,  and  Poman  to  the  S.S.E.  The  town  of 
Andalgala  is  now  of  some  importance,  having  during  the 
last  ten  years  singularly  increased,  in  consequence  of  the 
great  activity  and  progress  made  in  the  explorations  of 
the  mines  of  Atajo  and  Capillitas;  it  is  the  most  impor- 
tant centre  of  population  in  the  province,  next  after  the 
capital  itself.  Commerce  is  being  well  developed 
owing  to  the  large  importation  of  mining  materials  and 
merchandize.  Agriculture  is  advancing  rapidly,  and 
considerable  quantities  of  wines,  brandy,  dry  figs,  &c., 


198 

are  exported.  The  position  of  Anclalgala  is  most  pic- 
turesque and  pre-eminently  healthy,  being  situate  at  the 
foot  of  the  enormous  mass  of  the  Clavillo  de  Aconquija, 
whose  summits  (over  19,000  feet)  are  crowned  with  per- 
petual snow.  The  numerous  descending  streams  and 
rivulets  from  this  range  fertilise  its  virgin  soil,  which 
consists  principally  of  decomposed  felspathic  rocks  most 
favourable  for  the  cultivation  of  fruit  trees  and  of  the 
vine,  whose  produce  is  there  very  superior.  A  large 
tannery  has  been  recently  established  with  successful 
results.  The  locust,  which  appears  occasionally,  is  its 
only  scourge. 

The  great  desert  of  the  Salinas  extends  to  the  south 
and  south-east,  and  covers  a  space  of  400  square  leagues. 
The  slope  of  this  vast  basin  is  towards  the  south-east, 
and  is  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  broken  ranges  of 
mountains,  of  which  the  principal  opening  is  at  Quebra- 
dillas,  in  the  province  of  Rioja,  where  the  average  altitude 
is  reduced  to  350  metres.  Here  passes  the  Arroyo 
Saladillo,  which  appears  to  be  the  only  discharge  from 
the  southern  part  of  the  basin  after  freshets  or  rains. 

The  departm  ent  of  Andalgala  is  divided  into  two  sec- 
tions— Andalgala  and  Poman.  The  section  Andalgala 
is  subdivided  into  five  districts — the  town  itself,  which 
I  have  just  described ;  the  village  ChoUa,  at  the  entrance 
of  the  quebrada  of  this  name,  and  by  which  the  road  to 
the  mines  of  Las  Capillitas  passes,  crossing  higher  up  the 
ridge  of  the  Negrilla.  This  is  a  most  picturesque  and 
enchanting  valley,  well  watered  by  a  rapid  rivulet,  and 
presents  a  mass  of  semi-tropical  vegetation  in  trees  and 
flowers  of  the  most  lovely  and  varied  description ;  so 
charming  is  this  neighbourhood  that  a  gentleman  from 
Buenos  Ayres,  at  a  distance  of  over  1,000  miles,  has 


It9 

purchased  a  little  vineyard  and  grounds,  with  the  view 
of  building  a  house  and  occasionally  enjoying  a  sojourn 
there.  The  next  districts  are  Bisbis  and  Amanao  to 
the  west,  in  the  quebradas  of  this  name,  also  very  pic- 
turesque. Billavil,  to  the  east,  is  one  of  the  chief  places 
in  the  lovely  valley  of  this  name.  It  is  an  agricultural 
district  and  its  hamlet  is  situated  on  the  route  to  Cata- 
marca  city  by  way  of  Singuil,  and  to  Tucuman  by  way 
of  Monasterio,  and  the  eastern  base  of  Aconquija. 

The  section  of  Poman  is  situate  upon  the  western 
watershed  of  the  Sierra  de  Ambato,  in  a  series  of  gorges 
formed  by  its  buttresses.  The  valley  in  this  place 
is  divided  mto  three  districts,  namely,  Poman,  Nuet- 
quin,  and  Rincon  de  Mulcasca.  In  these  districts  are 
produced  white  wines  of  a  very  superior  class,  and  agri- 
culture, although  limited,  is  a  source  of  considerable 
profit  to  its  inhabitants.  On  the  estancias  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  Salinas  some  cattle  are  bred  and  reared, 
which  feed  principally  on  the  leaf  and  fruit  of  the 
algarrobo.  This  important  indigenous  tree  (Hymemea 
Courbaril-Jetaiba)  is  found  in  great  abundance  all  over 
this  and  neighbouring  provinces,  and  its  fruit,  of  the 
papilionaceous  species,  is  gathered  annually  by  the  na- 
tives, and  stored  with  much  care,  forming,  as  it  does, 
their  principal  winter  stock  of  food.  It  grows  some- 
times to  a  height  of  40  feet,  and  the  diameter  of  its 
trunk,  generally  knotted  and  crooked,  varies  from  6 
inches  to  o  feet.  Its  branches  are  wide  spread,  more 
especially  in  the  case  of  the  largest  of  the  species. 
The  fruit,  as  already  stated,  forms  a  most  impor- 
tant article  of  food,  both  for  man  and  beast.  The  lono- 
pods  are  pounded  in  a  wooden  mortar,  and  the  resulting 
mass  passes  through  a  sieve,  in  order  to  separate   the 


200 

seeds,  the  husk  only  being  used  for  human  food.  The 
meal  or  flour  thus  produced  is  slightly  moistened  with 
water  and  pressed  into  circular  cakes  or  wooden  moulds, 
and  when  dried  in  the  sun  are  fit  for  use.  In  this  state 
it  is  called  "  patay  "  (an  Indian  word),  and  is  exported 
into  other  districts  of  the  Republic  not  possessmg  the 
alo-arrobo  tree  in  sufficient  abundance  to  make  its  pro- 
duce worth  collecting.  The  "  patay "  has  a  sweetish 
flavour,  resembling  maize  flour  mixed  with  treacle,  is 
very  nutritious,  but  only  a  small  quantity  can  be  taken 
at  a  meal.  The  inhabitants  of  the  country  districts  of 
Catamarca  and  Rioja  live  almost  exclusively  on  it,  and 
are  generally  strong  and  healthy. 

Two  roads  cross  the  desert  west  from  Poman,  the 
one  to  Belem,  the  other  to  Tinogasta.  The  route  to 
the  Fuerte  extends  along  the  foot  of  the  Ambato  range 
towards  the  north. 

MINERAL  RESOURCES,  &c. 
This    province   would   undoubtedly   be   one   of   the 
poorest  and  most  insignificant  in  the   Republic  were  it 
not  for  its  mines  and  reduction  establishments.      Its 
geographical  position  and  isolation  from  the  centres  of 
traffic  and  commerce  militate  most  powerfully  against 
its  industrial  progress;  but,  notwithstanding  this,  no 
province  in  the  Republic  is  better  governed  as  respects 
the   administration  of  its   commercial  aff'airs.      Order, 
prosperity,  and  industry  reign  in  all  its  departments, 
despite  the  cries  of  angry  and  disappointed  political  par- 
ties fustrated  in  designs  hostile  to   its   progress,  and 
opposed   to   the    development   of    its    mineral  wealth. 
Miners  have  nothing  to   do  with  politics,  and  ought  to 
refuse  to  interest  themselves  in  anything  foreign  to  their 


201 

legitimate  occupation.  They  only  ask  to  be  allowed  to 
work  in  peace.  Their  labours  are  more  exalted  and 
more  glorious  for  the  country  and  its  civilization  than 
any  other,  and  their  happy  and  fruitful  results  are  the 
most  eloquent  proof  of  their  importance. 

In  this  province  I  have  for  the  first  time  seen  realized 
the  projects  and  theories  of  the  enlightened  President 
of  the  Republic,  Sefior  Sarmiento.  He  has  always 
urged  upon  his  fellow-citizens  that,  to  enable  the  Sub- 
Andine  provinces  to  emerge  from  their  actual  state  of 
prostration,  they  must  create  within  themselves  the  con- 
sumption necessary  to  support  increased  agricultural 
productions.  The  distance  and  high  freight  charges 
prevent  the  exportation  of  these,  and  thus  the  cultiva- 
tor of  the  soil  would  have  no  inducement  to  continue 
his  labours  in  the  field  if  no  such  market  or  consumption 
existed. 

The  normal  population  is  insufficient  to  consume 
even  half  what  their  fertile  soil  brings  forth,  and  onlv 
by  increasing  the  number  of  inhabitants  and  fomentino- 
permanent  industries  like  that  of  mining,  can  the  agri- 
culturist hope  to  obtain  a  satisfactory  reward  for  his 
toil. 

Catamarca  possesses  but  one  mining  district  of  great 
commercial  importance  in  active  operation,  viz.,  "  Las 
Capillitas,"  situated  12  leagues  north-east  of  the  Fuerte 
de  Andalgala,  and  about  50  from  the  capital,  in  moun- 
tains branching  westward  from  the  great  range  of  the 
Nevado  de  Aconquija,  which  divides  the  province  from 
that  of  Tucuman.  Its  geological  formation  is  that  of 
the  primary  rocks — granite,  conglomerate,  gneiss,  and 
syenite.  There  are  other  districts  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  possessing  veins  of  copper  and  silver,  but  as  none 


202 

are  being  worked,  they  cannot  at  the  present  moment  be 
considered  as  representing  commercial  value. 

The  Restauradora  mine,  belonging  to  Mr.  Samuel 
F.  Lafone,  of  Monte  Video,  is  the  richest  and  most 
important  in  the  province.  The  works  are  well  directed, 
and  economy  and  science  applied  with  highly  profitable 
results. 

The   mine  was  purchased  by  Mr.  Lafone  for  6,000 
doubloons  (about  £20,000),  and,  owing  to  the  great 
abundance  and  good  ley  of  its  ores,  it  was  determined 
to  erect  reduction  works  at  Santa  Maria,  about  30  leagues 
to  the  north.     This  was  a  grave  error,  as  it  entailed  the 
carrying  of  the  ores  30  leagues  northward  for  the  pur- 
pose of  reduction,  and  the   subsequent  return  of  the 
copper  produced  almost  over  the  same  road  on  its  way 
for  export  at  Buenos  Ayres.    For  some  years  the  enter- 
prise was  carried  on  at  serious  loss,  purely  the  result  of 
mismanagement.    In  the  year  1860  or  1861,  Mr.  Lafone's 
son,  Mr.  Samuel  Lafone-Quevado,  accompanied  by  Mr. 
Juan  Heller,  as  commercial  manager,  visited  the  mines 
with  the  object  of  reforming  its  management;  audit 
was  fully  time  that  some  step  should  be  taken,  as  about 
£70,000  had  already  been  expended,  and  day  by  day 
further  loss  was  being  incurred.    Smelting  operations  at 
Santa  Maria  were  at  once  suspended,  and  the  large  es- 
tancia  of  Pilciao  was  bought,  situated  5  leagues  south  of 
Fuerte  de  Andalgala,  and  13  leagues  south  of  the  mines. 
The  ores  were  thus  carried  southwards,  and  a  saving 
thereby  effected  in  the  ultimate  charges  for  freight  to 
the  coast.     The  management  was  reformed,  and  useless 
employes  in  the  mine  discharged  and  replaced  by  others 
of  a  more  suitable  class.     New  furnaces  were  built  at 


203 

Pilciao,  and  an  intelligent  metallurgical  chemist  from 
Europe  was  engaged  to  direct  the  operations  on  scien- 
tific principles.  All  these  alterations  caused  a  further 
expenditure  of  upwards  of  £30,000,  but  its  prudent  in- 
vestment promised  good  returns,  as,  in  fact,  it  has,  the 
enterprise  being  now  in  a  solvent  and  profitable  position. 
The  £30,000  have  been  already  recouped,  and  the 
owners  are  in  the  possession  of  a  most  valuable  property, 
as  well  in  lands  and  reduction  works  as  in  mines.  The 
lode  of  the  Restauradora  mine  is  on  the  average  Seven 
feet  in  width,  and  the  average  ley  for  copper  18  per 
cent.;  but  the  ore  also  contains  silver  in  tte  proportion 
of  about  27.13  per  ton  and  one-ninth  of  an  ounce  of 
gold.  It  is  the  presence  of  the  precious  metals  which 
renders  the  reduction  of  copper  ores  at  all  profitable,  as 
this  latter  alone  barely  covers  the  cost  of  extraction 
from  the  mines,  reduction,  freight,  and  other  expenses 
incurred  previous  to  its  sale  in  Europe.  It  is  in  such 
cases  as  this  that  the  want  of  good  and  cheap  means  of 
conveyance  from  the  interior  to  the  coast  is  most 
severely  felt,  for  the  whole  profit  is  absorbed  in  charges 
for  transport. 

At  the  time  of  my  visit  the  mine  had  a  considerable 
quantity  of  water  in  the  upper  levels.  An  adit,  how- 
ever, was  being  driven  for  its  removal,  and  the 
miners  were  meanwhile  stoping  out  all  the  ore  existing 
in  upper  workings. 

The  orestuff"  on  the  surface  consisted  at  that  date 
(March,  1869)  of  450  tons  of  first  class  ore,  holding  20 
per  cent,  of  copper ;  and  600  tons  of  second  class,  hold- 
ing only  12  per  cent,  of  copper,  but  richer  in  its  ley  for 
gold  and  silver.  The  ores  are  sulpho-arsenides,  with 
antimonides  of  copper  and  iron,  or  what  are  commonly 


204 

called  black,  grey,  and  yellow  sulphides,  with  purple  or 
peacock  copper  ore.  About  270  tons  per  month  are 
raised  and  dressed  for  the  furnaces. 

The  mine  is  worked  by  galleries,  winzes,  and  shafts. 
An  adit,  with  tramway  and  waggons,  communicates  with 
the  upper  workings  and  discharges  the  ores  into  the  ore 
yard  on  the  surface;  but  there  is  another  adit  lower 
down,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  on  which  they  had 
been  continuously  at  work  for  four  years,  driving  night 
and  day,  to  effect  communication  with  the  upper  work- 
ings and  drain  them.  It  is  360  yards  in  length,  with  a 
tramway,  but  fifteen  months'  work  was  still  necessary 
before  it  could  reach  the  desired  point.  When  this  is 
accomplished,  however,  the  mine  will  be  freed  from  water, 
presenting  a  vertical  depth  of  125  fathoms  in  virgin 
ground,  which  can  then  be  worked  without  difiiculty  or 
impediment.  While  this  is  being  done,  ore  of  a  suitable 
class  exists  on  surface,  and  will  be  obtained  from  the 
upper  workings  sufficient  to  keep  the  furnaces  going  at 
the  rate  of  100  tons  a  month  for  over  a  year. 

Altogether  sixty  persons  were  employed  in  the  mine, 
viz.,  the  mine  captain,  Mr.  James  Tyrrell,  who  is  an 
Englishman;  5  Cornish  miners,  1  blacksmith,  and  1 
bookkeeper,  all  English;  1  provision  dispenser,  2  mayor- 
domos,  12  fore-miners,  36  assistant  miners,  and  1 
cook. 

There  are  four  pumps,  and  the  ventilator  in  the  lower 
adit  is  moved  by  means  of  a  hydraulic  wheel.  A  whim 
is  used  to  raise  the  ore  to  the  level  of  the  upper  adit. 

The  Ortiz-  mine  is  upon  another  vein  of  much  impor- 
tance, situated  northward,  close  to  that  of  Restaui^adora. 
It  was  little  worked,  being  merely  kept  open  by  Mr. 
Lafone.       The  orestuff  consists  of  red  oxides  of  copper, 


205 

with  very  rich  silicates  and  carbonates ;  the  ley  is  not 
less  than  45  per  cent,  of  copper  ,  but  it  contains  no 
silver.     The  lode  in  some  parts  is  a  yard  in  width. 

This  vein  joins  with  another,  La  Mon'tezuma^  which  is 
also  of  importance,  but  was  not  bemg  actually  worked 
at  the  time  of  my  visit.  On  the  same  lode  are  other 
mines — La  Victoria  and  Alejandra^ — yielding  ore  of 
good  ley  for  copper,  but  likewise  only  partially  worked. 
As  previously  explained,  it  is  unprofitable  to  reduce  vein- 
stuff  containing  copper  only,  and  as  that  of  the  Eestau- 
radora  holds  so  much  copper,  with  silver  and  gold  in 
addition,  other  ores  are  not  at  present  in  request  by  the 
smelting  masters. 

The  Santa  Clara  mine  is  situated  to  the  west  of 
Restaur adora^  with  which  it  joins.  It  is  the  property  of 
Don  Marcelino  Augier.  This  vein,  which  holds  a  good 
ley  for  silver,  is  of  great  width,  and  consists  of  sulphides 
of  copper,  with  blende  and  galena.  The  mine  is  closed, 
and  its  lowest  levels  (30  fathoms)  are  in  water,  to  get 
rid  of  which  it  would  be  necessary  to  drive  an  adit. 
There  is  an  adit  on  a  level  with  the  water,  which  is  of 
no  use  for  this  purpose,  and  another  must  be  made  at 
greater  depth. 

Higher  up,  on  the  same  vein,  is  the  Grande  mine, 
belono^ms:  to  Messrs.  Malbran.  Here  the  width  of  the 
vein  is  IJ  yards,  and  the  ley  of  the  ore  35  per  cent., 
consisting  of  carbonates  and  oxides,  with  sulphides  of 
copper. 

The  Catamarquena  and  Bandera  Nacional  mines,  also 
closed,  are  both  located  on  the  continuation  of  the  above 
lode.  At  a  few  yards  below  the  surface  the  ore  disap- 
pears. 


206 

MESSRS.  CARRANZA,  MOLINA,  AND  GO'S  MINES. 
The  Rosario  mine  is  the  oldest  in  the  district,  and  is 
energetically  worked,  with  galleries  and  shafts,  and  a 
spacious  adit,  at  75  fathoms  vertically  from  the  upper 
surface  of  the  mountain.  The  miners  are  working  40 
fathoms  lower  than  the  adit  level,  and  at  this  depth  a 
considerable  quantity  of  water  makes  its  appearance. 
Nevertheless,  it  is  easily  removed  by  means  of  hand 
pumps. 

The  lode  is  very  variable  ui  width,  which  is  in  parts 
eighteen  feet,  but  the  average  does  not  exceed  three. 
The  ley  of  the  ore  is  higher  than  that  extracted  from 
La  Restauradora  by  Mr.  Lafone,  but  it  is  less  abundant. 
Still,  from  its  superior  ley,  almost  an  equal  quantity  of 
copper  is  produced. 

All  the  orestufF  raised  durmg  the  year  held  on  the 
average  20  per  cent,  of  copper,  19-16  ounces  of  silver, 
and  half  an  ounce  of  gold  to  the  ton.  The  vein  in  the 
lower  levels  was  is  good  beneficio  when  I  saw  it,  and 
promises  to  improve. 

About  150  tons  of  undressed  orestuff  was  on  the  sur- 
face, together  with  9  tons  dressed. 

Seventy-eight  persons  were  employed  here,  viz.,  Mr. 
William  Glanville,  mine  captain,  1  timberer,  1  assistant 
ditto,  all  English ;  1  clerk,  1  provision  dispenser,  1  black- 
smith, 20  fore-miners,  46  labourers,  4  mayordomos,  1 
servant,  and  1  cook. 

To  carry  on  the  working  of  this  mine  effectively  at 
least  100  men  are  necessary,  but  during  my  visit  only 
the  above  number  were  actually  employed,  owing  to  the 
scarcity  of  hands  in  the  district.  As  in  the  case  of  the 
Restauradora^  a  large  sum  of  money  was  uselessly  ex- 
pended upon  the  mine  in  consequence  of  bad  manage- 


207 

merit  at  the  commencement,  but,  under  the  auspices  of 
the  present  engineer,  the  results  now  obtained  are  much 
more  satisfactory. 

The  Mejicana  mine  is  on  a  large  vein,  eight  yards  in 
width,  of  ferrugineous  ore,  formerly  worked  for  gold. 
When  I  visited  this  mine  an  adit  was  being  driven  on 
the  vein,  but  had  not  yet  reached  good  ore.  I  have  been 
since  informed  that  good  beneficio  was  subsequently  cut. 

The  Esperanza  mine  belongs  to  the  same  owners. 
The  vein  is  a  yard  in  width,  holding  30  per  cent,  of 
copper  in  carbonates,  oxides,  and  sulphides,  with  a 
higher  ley  for  silver  and  gold  than  the  Rosario.  A  ver- 
tical shaft  was  driven,  and  a  whim  had  recently  been 
constructed  to  raise  ore  more  economically.  Good  re- 
sults are  certain  to  be  obtained  in  working  this  lode  in 
depth. 

The  San  Salvadorhelongs  to  Don  Wellington  Mercado, 
and  is  located  at  the  foot  of  Rosario.  The  vein  is  half 
a  yard  in  width,  containing  20  per  cent,  of  copper  and 
74  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton.  It  is  much  worked  by 
an  adit  well  driven  on  the  vein. 

The  La  Argentina  is  close  to  the  E.^peranza,  and  is 
the  property  of  Don  Marcelino  Augier.  The  vein  is  in 
beneficio,  a  quarter  of  a  yard  in  width,  and  the  orestuff 
consists  of  sulphides  and  oxides  of  copper,  with  silicates. 
It  holds  88-8  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton. 

There  are  many  other  old  copper  mines  in  the  district, 
which  are  not  being  worked  ;  as,  in  the  first  place,  no  profit 
is  derived  from  the  reduction  of  non-argentiferous  or 
auriferous  copper  ore,  and  in  the  second  place,  mining 
operations  are  restricted  practically  to  the  owners  of 
smelting  works,  and  the  latter  having  enough  of  their 
own  are  not  interested  in  purchasing  ores  from  others. 


208 

Ores  from  the  Rosario^  and  other  mines  of  Messrs. 
Carranza,  Molina,  and  Co.,  are  reduced  at  their  works 
at  Pipanaco,  to  which  reference  will  be  made  later  on. 

COPPER  REDUCTION  WORKS. 

There  are  only  two  smelting  establishments  in  full 
operation  in  the  province, — that  of  Mr.  Samuel  F. 
Lafone,  at  Pilciao,  and  that  of  Messrs.  Carranza,  Molina, 
and  Co.,  at  Pipanaco. 

The  works  at  Pilciao  are  five  leagues  to  the  south  of 
Fuerte  de  Andalgala,  and  35  leagues  north-west  from 
the  capital,  on  the  western  side  of  the  Sierra  of  Ambato. 
They  are  situated  about  15  leagues  from  the  mines,  and 
surrounded  by  immense  forests  of  algarrobo  and  retamo 
The  locality  is  dry  and  good  water  can  only  be  obtained 
at  a  depth  of  20  fathoms. 

There  are  9  reverberatory  furnaces,  including  1  for 
calcination  and  2  for  refining;  4  Chilian  mills,  and  5 
stamp  heads.  The  works  are  very  extensive,  covering 
more  than  eight  acres  of  ground.  Fire-bricks  are  manu- 
factured on  the  spot,  composed  of  pure  quartz,  ground 
to  the  required  fineness,  and  washed  kaolin,  or  china 
clay,  in  the  proportion  of  95  of  the  former  to  5  of  the 
latter.  Excellent  bricks  are  thus  made,  being  capable 
of  resisting  fire  and  fluxes  for  a  long  time.  I  was  kindly 
permitted  to  study  the  system  of  reduction  here  in  prac- 
tice, in  its  various  stages  of  progress,  under  the  able 
superintendence  of  Mr.  Schickendantz,  the  metallurgical 
chemist  of  the  establishment.  Mr.  John  Heller,  a  Dane 
of  many  years'  experience  and  residence  in  the  country, 
is  the  general  manager. 


209 

AURIFEROUS   AND  ARGENTIFEROUS    COPPER 
SMELTING  AT  PILCIAO. 

Common  Spanish  name'!  liT  which 
Description  of  Ores  received  at  Works.  the  CLisses  are  distiuguisheil, 

1.  Grey  copper,  with  yellow  pyrites  (in  large)     Despinte,  bronces 

lumps) j  gris. 

2.  Ditto,  ditto,  forming  the  smalls  or  sweep-  ]     Ditto    Llampos 

ings j 

3.  Copper   and    iron    yellow   and    purple  ]     ^^onces  amarillos. 

pyrites  (in  large  lumps)  j 

4.  Diito,  ditto,  in  dust  Ditto,  Llampos. 

5.  Washed  smalls,  or  dust,  containing  grey,  ~| 

yellow,  and  purple  copper  pyrites,  ga-  >    Llampos  lavados. 
lena,  and  blende ) 

6.  Carbonates  and  oxides  of  copper,  with  )     Tyrpfoi  Aq  color. 

carbonates  of  lead  and  galena    j 

7.  Iron   pyrites,  with  poor   yellow  copper  )     Rgchanque. 

pyrites j 

First  operation. — Ores,  1,  3,  and  7  are  calcined  in 
heaps  in  the  open  air,  in  large  quantities  at  a  time, 
ranging  from  40  to  60  tons.  The  well  calcined  ore  is 
selected  and  separated  from  the  other,  which  is  reserved 
for  further  treatment,  being  added  in  certain  proportion 
to  the  next  heap  for  calcination. 

Second  operation. — Smelting  of  the  calcined  ores. — 
The  charges  generally  are  mixed  as  follows :  Calcined 
ore,  18  to  20  cwts.;  crude  smalls,  2  to  4  cwts. ;  slags 
from  the  fourth  operation,  6  to  4  cwts. ;  slags  from  the 
second  operation,  4  to  2  cwts. ;  total,  30  cwts.  Six  charges 
are  run  down  in  the  24  hours,  the  results  being  regulus, 
holding  48  to  65  per  cent,  of  copper ;  poor  slags,  holding 
J  per  cent,  of  copper;  and  rich  slags,  called  "cogote" 
(neck),  which  is  again  smelted  in  the  second  operation. 

Third  operation. — Calcination  of  the  regulus.    About 

two-thirds  of  the  regulus  produced  in  the  last  operation 

is  ground  in  a  Chilian  mill,  and  roasted  in  a  reverberatory 

furnace.     The  charge  is  two  tons,  and  the  calcination  is 

completed  in  24  hours. 

2b 


210 

Fourth  operation. — In  the  24  hours  five  charges  are 
run  down,  consisting  of  the  following :  calcined  regulus, 
2  cwts. ;  crude  ditto,  in  mgots,  8  to  10  cwts. ;  sand,  6  to 
10  cwts. ;  crude  ore,  from  ore  yard  sweepings,  6  cwts. 
The  oxides  and  carbonates  are  divided  between  this  and 
the  second  operation,  according  to  their  class.  From 
this  there  are  two  important  products,  namely,  regulus, 
holding  from  80  per  cent,  copper,  which  forms  about  75 
per  cent,  of  the  product,  and  black  copper  of  92  to  95 
per  cent.,  forming  25  per  cent,  of  the  product,  and  in 
which  latter  is  concentrated  nearly  all  the  gold  and 
greater  part  of  the  silver  present  in  the  ore ;  this  is  called 
"bottoms." 

Fifth  operation. — By  this  the  regulus  is  refined,  and 
in  30  hours,  28  to  32  bars  of  copper  are  produced, 
weighing  from  54  to  60  cwts.  The  slags  from  this  are 
smelted  in  the  second  operation. 

Sixth  operation. — The  "  bottoms,"  (or  black  copper) 
containing  the  gold  and  silver,  are  smelted  or  run  down 
in  a  furnace  kept  apart  for  this  in  order  simply  to  give 
it  the  required  form  and  weight.  The  slags  from  this 
hold  from  2  to  3  per  cent,  of  copper,  and  are  all  re- 
smelted  in  the  second  operation. 

The  word  "  bottoms  "  is  used  in  Pilciao,  and  generally 
throughout  the  whole  province  of  Catamarca,  in  speak- 
ing of  the  metallic  copper  produced  in  the  fourth  opera- 
tion, by  a  judicious  mixture  of  the  calcined  with  crude 
regulus.  Only  perhaps  25  per  cent.,  as  already  stated, 
is  so  converted  or  produced  by  the  reaction  of  the  oxides 
of  copper  and  iron  on  the  crude  sulphides  under  certain 
conditions  of  temperature  in  the  furnace.  Metallic 
copper  forms  a  thin  film  on  the  surface  of  the  liquid 
bath,  and,  owing  to  its  specific  gravity  being  greater 


211 

than  the  substratum  of  regulus,  it  falls  to  the  bottom  of 
the  furnace.  A  fresh  surfacb  is  thus  exposed  to  the 
action  of  the  fire,  and  a  further  quantity  of  metallic 
copper  immediately  forms,  which  in  its  turn  falls  to  the 
bottom  in  the  form  of  rain  or  fine  grains.  This  pro- 
cess is  repeated  until  all  the  oxides  of  copper  and 
iron  present  in  the  furnace  have  been  exhausted  by  their 
reaction  on  the  sulphides.  The  mixtures  are  carefully 
arranged  so  that  the  total  charge  shall  not  produce 
more  than  25  per  cent,  of  metallic  copper.  The  theory 
of  this  operation  is,  that  the  falling  shower  of  metallic 
copper,  from  its  afiinity  for  gold  and  silver,  attracts  and 
combines  with  those  metals,  disseminated  through  the 
mass,  thereby  concentrating  their  greatest  bulk  in  the 
small  quantity  of  bottoms  produced.  The  presence  of 
lead  or  zinc  in  certain  proportions  greatly  facilitates  this 
operation. 

I  will  proceed  to  explain  the  object  of  this  precaution, 
and  the  great  care  necessary  to  insure  success. 

It  is  only  within  the  past  two  years  that  Mr.  Lafone 
has  been  able  to  profit  by  the  percentage  of  gold  (and  I 
may  add  the  silver)  present  in  the  bar  copper  produced 
at  his  works.  In  Europe,  the  value  of  these  precious 
metals  in  bar  copper  is  only  realizable  by  the  owner 
when  the  ley  for  gold  exceeds  three  ounces,  and  that  for 
silver  exceeds  sixty  ounces  to  the  ton ;  and  previous  to 
the  introduction  of  the  system  practised  by  Mr.  Schiken- 
dantz  of  making  "bottoms,"  the  ley  of  the  exported 
ordinary  copper  rarely  passed  120  to  loO  ounces  silver 
to  the  ton,  and  gold  in  less  proportion  than  the  standard 
ley  for  realization.  With  the  present  system  all  this  is 
altered ;  since,  instead  of  the  silver  and  gold  being  dis- 
seminated through  the  entire  mass  of  ordinary  copper 


212 

produced,  they  are  concentrated  in  the  25  per  cent,  of 
"bottoms"  obtained  in  the  manner  already  described. 
Thus,   for   example,   when    100    tons  are  remitted  to 
Europe,  75  will  contain  scarcely  any  gold,  and  rarely 
more  than  100  ounces  of  silver;  but  the  other  25  tons 
of  "bottoms"  hold  200  ounces  of  silver  and  from  10  to 
12  ounces  of  gold  to  the  ton.     The  first  sells  for  £80  to 
£90,  and  the  last  for  £135  to  £140  per  ton.    The  buyers 
deduct,  against  cost  of  extracting  the  silver  and  gold, 
at  the  rate  of  60  ounces  of  the  former  and  three  ounces 
of  the  latter  per  ton,  paying  for  the  excess  at  the  rate 
of  5s.  per  ounce  of  silver,  and  £3  lOs.  per  ounce  of  gold. 
From  these  explanations  it  will  be  easy  to  comprehend 
the  great  importance  of  the  "bottoms"  system,  and  the 
skill  and  great  care  which  must  be   exercised  in  pro- 
ducino-  them.     In  my  opinion,  however,  it  would  be  still 
more  advantageous  to  simply  produce   copper  regulus, 
holding  silver  and  gold,  and  in  this  state   realize   it  in 
Europe,  as  the  returning  charges  upon  regulus  are  not 
half  those  paid  upon  bar  copper.      The  reason  of  this 
is  very  clear.     All  bar  copper  holding  gold   and   silver 
has  to  be  re-smelted  with  sulphides  in  Europe,  in  order 
to  re-convert  it  into  regulus,  before  either  the  silver  or 
gold  is  extractd. 

Mr.  Lafone  employs  555  persons  in  immediate  con- 
nection with  his  extensive  reduction  works,  and  as  many 
more  are  indirectly  engaged  in  providing  the  workmen 
with  provisions  and  other  necessaries  of  life.  Tliere  is 
a  very  considerable  consumption  of  merchandise ;  and 
it  is  a  notable  fact  that,  whereas,  previous  to  the  estab- 
lishment of  the  works  in  Fuerte  de  Andalgala,  the  im- 
portations of  cotton  goods  and  general  merchandise  from 
Buenos  Ayres  did  not  exceed  £3,500  annually,  they  now 


213 

represent  a  value  of  over  £35,000,  or  an  increase  of  900 
per  cent. 

The  consumption  of  hay  and  the  dried  fruit  of  the 
algarrobo,  for  the  hundreds  of  animals  employed  in  the 
works,  is  almost  incredible ;  in  the  latter  alone  £580  has 
been  expended  during  the  present  year ;  it  is  purchased 
from  the  poor  peons  who  gather  it  at  5d.  per  arroba  of 
25  lbs.  Flour  costs  £1  per  cwt. ;  beef,  about  l|d.  per 
pound;  wood,  4s.  2d.  per  perch  of  16  cubic  yards  (this 
is  only  for  carriage  and  cutting,  as  the  country  for 
leao-ues  around  the  works  belono;s  to  the  establishment). 
The  labourers  are  paid  from  £1  3s.  4d.  to  £1  6s.  8d.  a 
month  with  rations.  The  freight  on  ores  from  the  mines 
to  the  works  is  £1  13s.  4d.  per  ton. 

The  furnaces  last  about  45  days  without  renovation. 

The  followino-  table  shows  the  ores  raised  at  the  Res- 
tauradora  mine  during  the  year  1868  : — 

Months.  Weight.  Weight. 

Tons.    Cwts.  Tons.  C wis.  Lbs. 

January 261   18  Containing,  by  assay,  of  fine  copper,  48     8  28 

February  ...  182   16  „  „  „  33     4  12 

March  265   18  „  „  „  46   12  45 

April 299   10  „  „  „  61    10  25 

May  225     3  „  „  „  47   n   23 

June 198  18  „  „  „  35     I   28 

July  223  II  „  „  „  40  16  36 

August 250  12  „  „  „  49     7   74 

September  197     8  „  „  „  39     o   19 

October    ...  146     2  „  „  „  30  17  69 

November  129     2  „  „  „  27   19  51 

December...  258  12  „  „  „  46     i   24 

Total. ..2,639  1°   of  ore  with  fine  copper 506  10  34 

The  average  ley  for  copper,   19.2  per  cent. 

The  foUowino;  further  table  shows  the  ores  reduced 
and  quantity  of  copper  produced  in  the  same  year  at 
the  Pilciao  works  : — 


214 

M(mth3.  Weight.  „       ^iL^Hr. 

Tons.  Cwts.     Lbs.  Tons.  Cwts.  libs. 

January 1^112     o)         ,     ,  ., 

1,  .  o  \  Producing  copper  in  bar,    32   10     o 

February    ...     98     7     9  j  on 

March    103     9     o         „  „  20  o  o 

April  279  13  56    „  „  35  o  o 

May  341  17  36    „  „  50  2  o 

June  233  20,,  „  34  8  o 

July  342  30,,  „  45  o  o 

August  411  2  56   '  „  „  50  o  ° 

September...  314  4  o    „  „  5°  ^  ° 

October 440  12  56    „  „  5°  ^9  o 

November...  273  8  o    „  „  5^  7  o 

December...  275  19  o    „  „  33  16  o 

Total  ...  3,245     o     o     Besides  about  60  tons  of  453     3     o 
regulus  and  other  products. 

The  reduction  works  at  Pipanaco,  belonging  to  Messrs. 
Carranza,  Molina,  and  Co.,  ere  situated  seven  leagues 
north-east  of  Pilciao,  and  about  twelve  leagues  from  the 
Fuerte  del  Andalgala,  at  the  foot  of  the  Ambato  range . 
There  are  four  reverberatory  furnaces — two  for  smelting, 
one  for  refining,  and  one  for  calcination.  They  are  a 
little  larger  in  their  interior  dimensions  than  those  of 
Mr.  Lafone  at  Pilciao.  Their  charge  is  1  ton  12  cwts., 
consisting  of  24  cwts.  of  calcined  ore  and  8  cwts.  of 
slags,  and  this  is  run  down  easily  in  three  hours,  being 
somewhat  less   hard  to  smelt. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  enter  into  details  with  respect 
to  the  system  of  reduction  in  practice  here,  as  it  is 
identical  with  that  followed  at  Pilciao,  the  metallurgical 
operations  being  also  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Schick- 
endantz.  The  ores  are,  however,  of  better  ley,  and 
more  fusible  than  those  of  Pilciao;  consequently  the 
work  of  reduction  is  simpler,  and  is  accomplished  with 
less  fuel.  Only  64  cubic  yards  are  used  for  each 
furnace  in  the  24  hours ;  but  wood  is  dearer,   costing 


215 

6s.  8d.  per  perch  of  16  cubic  yards.  The  freight  or 
transport  of  ores  from  the  mines  is  also  heavier,  being 
£2  16s.  6d.  a  ton,  without  sacks,  but  only  £2  a  ton 
when  those  are  supplied  to  the  muleteer.  All  the  ore 
traffic  from  mines  to  works,  as  well  here  as  at  Pilciao, 
is  done  on  muleback,  but  the  firewood  is  carted  with 
oxen. 

Here  fire-bricks  are  also  manufactured  out  of  quartz 
and   kaolin,  which  is   found  in  great  abundance  in  the 
neighbouring  hills.     Seiior  Don  Mardoqueo  Molina  was 
the  initiator  of  this  industry.     Serious  drawbacks  were 
at  first  encountered  m  consequence  of  the  use  of  un- 
suitable   bricks  and   refractory  stones    obtained   from 
Paiman,  near  Famatina,  in  Rioja.      On  the  other  hand, 
the  cost  of  English  bricks  is  so  high,  owing  to  the  heavy 
freight,  that,  commercially  speaking,  their  use  is  impos- 
sible.    These,  placed  in  Catamarca,  do  not  cost  less  than 
2s.  each.     In  the  reduction  operations,  both  at  Pilciao 
and  Pipanaco,  the  consumption  of  iron  is  greatly  econo- 
mised by  the  adoption  of  wooden-headed  rabbles  for  re- 
moving the  slag  and  stirring  up  the  charges.     Pieces  of 
algarrobo  are  substituted  for  iron,  each  9  inches  long 
by  4J  in  diameter.     These  are  bored  and  fitted  on  the 
long  iron   rabble-handles,  forming   its  head,    and  last 
for  one  or  two  days.      They  have  the  advantage,  being 
round,   of  preventing  the  withdrawal  by  the  labourer 
of  the  regulus  and  copper  in  conjunction  with  the  slag, 
which  is  frequently  a  source  of  loss  in  careless  mani- 
pulation with  iron  rabbles. 

The  copper  produced  at  Pipanaco  holds  a  larger  per- 
centage of  gold  than  that  of  Pilciao,  but  there  is  not  so 
much  difference  as  regards  the  proportion  of  silver.  It 
generally  contains  16  ounces  of  the  former  and  180  of 


216 

the  latter  to  the  ton.  This  is  owing  both  to  the  higher 
le}^  of  the  ores,  and  to  the  presence  of  blende  (sulphide 
of  zinc)  and  lead,  which  aids  the  concentration  of  the 
precious  metals  in  the  "bottoms."  Ores  from  the 
Rosario  have  frequently  a  high  ley  for  gold,  and  some- 
times with  native  gold  visible  in  specks  on  the  surface. 
In  many  instances  those  ores  hold  70  per  cent,  of  copper 
and  5  ounces  of  gold  to  the  ton ;  but  when  a  quantity  of 
this  percentage  is  obtained  they  are  remitted  direct  to 
Europe  without  reduction,  and,  of  course,  leave  a  large 
profit. 

Pipanaco  has  a  great  advantage  over  Pilciao — that  of 
possessing  running  water — a  small  stream,  which  de- 
scends from  the  neio^hbourinof  Sierra ;  with  this  alfalfa 
enclosures  are  irrigated,  and  a  considerable  quantity  of 
pasture  and  vegetables  grown.  Its  position  is  also  ad- 
vantageous from  being  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  thus  pre- 
senting an  easy  declivity,  which  is  availed  of  to  facilitate 
the  charging  of  the  furnaces.  This  is  effected  by  means 
of  a  tramway,  which  runs  from  east  to  west  through  the 
works,  carrying  the  calcined  and  crude  ore  direct  to  the 
furnace  hopper,  where  it  is  dropped  in  without  labour  or 
difficulty,  and  of  course  effects  a  considerable  saving. 

Though  further  from  the  mines  than  the  Pilciao, 
charges  for  transport  of  copper  from  Pipanaco  to  the 
coast  are  less  onerous,  the  latter  being  further  to  the 
south;  but  this,  I  conclude,  is  hardly  equivalent  to  the 
difference  in  freight  upon  the  ores,  which  are  greater  in 
weight  and  quantity. 

The  works  of  Messrs.  Carranza  and  Molina  have 
suffered  serious  drawbacks  in  consequence  of  political 
convulsions  and  the  arbitrary  action  of  the  authorities 
in  past  years.     The  whole  of  their  workpeople,  engaged 


217 

at  the  mines  and  at  their  reduction  establishment,  havff* 
even  been  seized  and  compelled  to  serve  in  war  contin- 
gents, notwithstanding  the  fact  that  the  miner,  by  his 
profession  and  according  to  the  still  existing  law  (Or- 
dinanzas  of  Mexico),  is  entirely  exempt  from  military 
service ;  but  the  Messrs.  Molina,  being  natives  of  the 
country,  and  of  course  having  their  own  political  \T.ews, 
frequently  in  discord  with  the  rulers  of  the  province, 
suffer  more  from  these  causes  than  foreigners  should. 
To  these  and  other  causes,  more  especially  bad  manage- 
ment and  want  of  economy,  is  due  a  serious  loss  in  the 
carrying  on  of  these  works ;  but  it  is  satisfactory  to  be 
able  to  state  that  a  favourable  turn  has  now  taken  place, 
and  the  enterprising  proprietors  are  gradually  recouping 
their  expenditure.  In  short,  it  has  happened  with 
them,  as  with  Mr.  Lafone,  who,  after  losing  £70,000 
and  fifteen  years  of  labour,  is  at  present  making  an  an- 
nual profit  of  nearly  £13,000. 

There  are  311  workmen  employed  at  Pipanaco,  and 
if  we  take  into  account  all  who  are  indirectly  dependent 
upon  these  mines  and  works  in  conjunction  with  those 
of  Mr.  Lafone,  the  total  number  cannot  be  less  than 
2,000  souls.  As  the  majority  of  these  have  families 
more  or  less  numerous,  we  may  safely  calculate  three 
for  each  person,  from  which  it  results  that  8,000  people 
live  by  the  mines  and  their  products,  and  that  too  in  a 
small  department  of  the  province. 

It  would  be  difficidt  to  exaggerate  the  importance  of 
these  works  and  their  civilizing  influences,  more  parti- 
cularly as  regards  the  moral  eff'ects  produced,  and  which 
are  visible  upon  the  inhabitants  of  the  province.  There 
is  nothing  more  certahi  than  that,  were  they  to  stop,  or 
even  temporarily  to  suspend  their  operations,  the  nums- 


218 

rous  community  dependent  upon  them  for  support 
would  be  thrown  into  a  state  of  extreme  destitution,  or, 
what  is  worse,  the  greater  part  of  those  who  are  now 
maintaining  themselves  by  honourable  toil,  would  pro- 
bably be  converted  into  hordes  of  turbulent  robbers  and 
assassins. 

Both  the  Government  and  the  people  themselves  are 
convinced  of  these  truths,  and  therefore  make  every 
effort  to  preserve  the  present  happy  and  prosperous 
state  of  things. 

In  Catamarca,  as  in  the  other  mining  provinces,  there 
are  scarcely  any  carriage  roads,  and  it  is  a  cause  of  great 
regret  that  a  matter  of  such  necessity  and  economic  im- 
portance, from  a  commercial  point  of  view,  should  not 
have  long  since  received  the  special  attention  of  the 
authorities. 

From  the  reduction  works  at  Pilciao  and  Pipanaco 
there  are  natural  carriage  roads  to  the  Fuerte  de  Andal- 
gald,  but  thence  to  the  mines  only  mule  tracks  exist. 
The  latter  have  been  made  by  Messrs.  Lafone,  Carranza, 
and  Molina,  for  their  own  use,  and  at  a  cost  of  £2,500 
These  it  would  be  most  desirable  to  widen  (that  of 
Mr.  Lafone  being  preferable),  and  the  expense  of  doing 
so  would  not  exceed  £2,000.  Passing  the  mines,  this 
road  descends,  skirting  the  mountains  of  Las  Capillitas, 
to  the  Pampa  de  los  Pozuelos,  which  presents  no  impedi- 
ment to  followmo;  northwards  on  the  western  side  of 
Aconquija  up  to  Santa  Maria  and  the  frontier  of  Tucu- 
man. 

This  would  then  become  the  public  high  road,  and 
most  important  in  facilitating  traffic  from  the  south  to 
Salta,  Jujuy,  and  Bolivia;  especially  from  Mendoza, 
San  Juan,  and  Famatina, 


219 

At  present  no  road  exists  between  the  city  of  Cata- 
marca  and  the  Fort  of  AndalgaM,  even  for  loaded  mules, 
without  making  an  immense  detour  to  the  south.  The 
traffic  between  those  points  is  very  considerable,  and 
ought  to  be  at  once  accommodated  with  a  good  carriage 
road,  which  might  pass  by  Singuil,  following  through 
the  ravine,  or  quebrada,  up  stream  to  reach  the  pampa 
of  Pucara,  afterwards  taking  the  easiest  descent  to  the 
foot  of  the  Nevado  de  Aconquija  in  order  to  arrive  at 
the  Fort  of  Andalgala.  The  distance  would  be  about 
40  leagues,  and  the  cost  not  less  than  £200  per  league. 

It  is  a  matter  of  pressing  necessity  to  render  the 
road  between  Catamarca  and  Tucuman  available  for  car- 
riage traffic.  The  present  mule  traffic  is  very  great, 
and  the  commercial  results  of  such  a  road  must  be  of 
incalculable  importance.  Some  years  ago  it  was  pro- 
posed to  accomplish  this  work,  and  the  necessary  sur- 
veys and  plans  were  prepared  with  that  object. 

After  passing  through  a  rich  and  populous  valley  it 
would  cross  the  Ancaste  range  by  the  Totoral,  which 
offers  no  serious  difficulty.  According  to  the  esti- 
mates presented  when  the  surveys  were  made,  the  cost 
of  a  carriage  road  from  Catamarca  by  way  of  Totoral  to 
Tucuman  would  be  £5,300;  but,  having  examined  the 
route  and  the  several  points  indicated,  I  am  of  opinion 
that  it  would  entail  an  expenditure  of  at  least  £7,500  to 
£8,500.  As  for  the  continuation  from  the  foot  of  the 
Totoral  pass  in  Tucuman  to  the  capital  of  this  province 
it  is  only  necessary  to  render  the  actual  road  more  direct 
by  cutting  a  road  through  the  forests.  Numerous 
rivers  (sixteen  in  all)  flow  from  the  Aconquija  mountains 
to  the  Rio  Dulce,  and  over  these  it  would  be  impracti- 
cable, or  rather  useless,  to  construct  bridges.      For  in 


220 

the  rainy  season  the  beds  of  these  rivers  are  swept  by- 
violent  torrents,  carrying  down  uprooted  trees  of  gigantic 
size,  which,  with  the  accumulation  of  dense  tropical 
veo-etation,  form  floatino;  islands.  These  would  soon 
obstruct  any  bridge  which  might  be  erected,  and  even 
should  this  be  sufficiently  strong  to  resist  the  weight 
and  force  of  the  floating  masses  of  trees  and  vegetation, 
the  result  in  a  few  minutes  would  be  the  overflow  of 
the  banks  and  inundation  of  the  whole  of  the  surrounding 
country.  The  banks  of  these  rivers  are  mostly  low,  and 
certainly  not  high  enough  to  permit  the  construction  of 
bridges  which  would  allow  the  free  passage  beneath  of 
huge  trunks  and  trees,  with  their  roots  and  branches 
projecting  many  feet  out  of  the  water. 

These  difficulties  are  almost  insuperable,  and  I  fear 
that  it  will  prove  impracticable  to  carry  out  the  pro- 
longation of  the  Central  Argentine  Railway  to  Tucuman 
by  this  route,  which  is  one  of  two  indicated  by  Senor 
Moneta,  the  chief  National  Engineer,  and  recommended 
by  its  well  populated  districts  and  large  sugar  and  to- 
bacco plantations. 

The  other  route  examined  by  Sefior  Moneta  seems  to 
be  the  most  feasible,  though  not  so  commercially  im- 
portant as  the  one  first  mentioned.  It  is  farther  to  the 
eastward,  and  crosses  the  Rio  Dulce,  once  to  the  south, 
running  parallel  to  its  coui'se  north  up  to  within  a  short 
distance  of  the  city  of  Tucuman,  when  it  again  crosses 
this  river.  This  route  obviates  the  necessity  of  crossing 
so  many  small  streams  and  rapid  rivers,  all  of  which 
empty  themselves  into  the  Dulce  at  different  points  to 
the  north  from  the  crossing  recommended  by  Moneta  in 
his  second  route. 

This  is,  however,  a  matter  for  study  and  careful  ex- 


221 

ploration,  which  I  am  glad  to  say  is  now  being  effectually 
carried  out  under  the  able  superintendence  of  Senor 
Moneta,  assisted  by  a  corps  of  Government  engineers. 
Within  a  few  months  we  will  have  the  surveys  com- 
pleted^ and  I  trust  soon  after  to  see  the  commencement 
of  this  all-important  extension  of  the  Central  Argentine 
Railway  to  the  north. 


222 


PEOYIxNCE   OF  TUCUMAN. 


GENERAL   PHYSICAL    ASPECT,   DESCRIPTION    OF    SOIL, 
CLIMATE,  &c. 

The  province  of  Tucuman  is  situated  between  26*^  and 
28*^  south  lat.,  and  67°  and  68^  30'  west  long.  (Paris); 
this  gives  it  an  extent  of  1,200  geographical  leagues, 
equal  to  about  1,500  Argentine  square  leagues.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  rivers  Tala  and  Urueiia, 
which  separate  it  from  Salta ;  to  the  east  by  a  line 
nearly  parallel  to  67^  long.,  which  passes  through  the 
great  plain  to  the  east  of  Aconquija,  the  estancias  of 
Vitiaca,  Palomar,  Bagual,  &c,,  and  also  over  the  Rio 
Dulce  west  of  the  village  of  Rio  Hondo ;  to  the  south, 
the  Rio  de  San  Francisco  separates  it  from  Catamarca 
and  from  Santiago ;  on  the  west,  by  the  great  Aconquija, 
a  range  of  mountains  whose  summit  is  over  19,000 
feet  above  sea  level  and  is  perpetually  covered  with 
snow.  This  line  penetrates  the  valley  of  Santa  Maria 
by  the  opening  of  Tafi,  and  there  forms  a  plateau  of 
six  leao^ues  lono;  and  four  in  breadth,  which  includes 
the  district  of  Colalao.  The  territory  of  Tucuman  is 
bordered  by  those  of  Salta,  Santiago  del  Estero,  and 
Catamarca. 


223 

The  general  aspect  of  the  province  is  very  varied, 
owing  to  its  vast  plains,  its  mountains,  the  numerous 
rivers  and  streams  which  run  through  it,  and  its  luxuriant 
vegetation.  It  may  nevertheless  be  divided  into  two 
principal  regions — that  of  the  plains,  which  commence 
at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  of  Aconquija,  and  extend 
eastward  to  the  limits  of  Santiago ;  that  of  the  mountains 
formed  by  all  the  dependencies  of  the  same  chain  to  the 
limits  of  Salta  and  of  Catamarca.  That  portion  of  the 
plain  around  the  base  of  Aconquija  is  traversed  by 
numerous  rivers,  and  embellished  by  magnificent  forests 
interspersed  Avith  grassy  prairies.  It  is  here  that  the 
population  is  most  dense  and  agriculture  is  in  the 
ascendant.  The  other  portion  to  the  west  of  Rio  Sali, 
which,  lower  down,  becomes  the  Rio  Dulce,  comprises 
very  rich  pasture  land,  equal  to  the  best  in  Santa  Fe  or 
Entre  Rios.  The  breeding  of  cattle  here  supercedes 
agriculture.  This  splendid  tapis  de  verdure  is  studded 
here  and  there  with  clumps  of  fine  timber  trees,  resemb- 
ling our  best  European  park  lands,  and  divided  into 
numerous  populated  estancias.  This  part  is  perfectly 
level,  has  no  rivers,  and  only  a  few  lagoons.  Water  is 
found  at  little  depth  by  digging  wells.  There  is  ahvays 
a  dry  season  during  one  part  of  the  year,  although 
otherwise  the  province  is  abundantly  supplied  by  rain. 

The  momitainous  region  lies  to  the  north  and  west  of 
the  province.  To  the  north,  the  mountains  are  not  of 
great  altitude,  but  form  a  net  work  of  little  chains  which 
cross  one  another  curiously,  circumscribing  lovely 
valleys.  To  the  west  lies  the  grand  Sierra  of  Aconquija 
already  alluded  to.  A  number  of  parallel  chains,  which 
are  considerably  lower,  extend  parallel  to  this  principal 
range,   and  enclose  elevated  valleys,    where   the  rain. 


224 

ciew,  and  small  streams  of  water  from  the  melted  snow, 
notwithstanding  their  altitude,  produce  a  vigorous  ve- 
getation, very  different  from  that  of  the  other  Andine  re- 
gions so  desolated  by  drought. 

The  province  of  Tucuman,  although  the  smallest  in 
the  Republic,  is  most  striking  from  the  abundance  of 
water,  the  splendour  of  the  vegetation,  the  variety  of  its 
soil,  and,  in  short,  the  great  beauty  of  the  country. 
Nothing  can  be  more  picturesque  than  the  gorges  of 
the  Aconquija,  with  their  foamy  torrents  and  their 
forests  of  immense  cedar  trees ;  nothing  more  enchanting 
than  the  plains  which  lie  at  the  foot  of  this  giant  moun- 
tain, and  which  are  irrigated  by  an  infinite  number 
of  rivers  and  streams.  Indeed  this  province  is  the  best 
watered  of  any  in  the  Argentine  Repubhc,  possessing, 
as  it  does,  the  great  advantage  of  having  the  sources  of 
its  rivers  at  such  an  altitude  as  admits  of  an  unlimited 
distribution  of  their  waters  over  the  plains,  being 
furnished  from  the  high  parts  of  the  Aconquija,  to  the 
south  of  San  Francisco ;  to  the  east  of  the  Sali  there  are 
no  rivers,  but  canals  for  irrigation  might  easily  be  taken 
there.  The  OTeat  mass  of  water  which  comes  from  the 
mountains  by  numerous  streams,  uniting,  form  one 
central  course,  the  Sali,  which  lower  down  becomes  the 
Rio  Dulce,  passing  by  Santiago  del  Estero,  and  finally 
loses  itself  in  the  lagoons  of  Los  Porongos  (Cordoba). 

This  watercourse  takes  its  rise  at  the  extremity  north 
of  the  Cumbres  de  Calchaqui,  by  the  branches  Riarte 
and  Chamorros,  joins  itself  to  the  Rio  Tala,  which  forms 
the  boundary  line  with  the  province  of  Salta,  then 
receives  the  torrents  of  Acequiones,  Alduralde,  and 
Vipos,  at  the  mouth  of  which  it  is  known  under  the 
name  of  the  Rio  SaK.     Near  the  capital  it  is  joined 


225 

by  the  rivers  Tapia  and  Saladillo;  further  down  it 
receives  the  rivers  Famailla,  Monteros,  Rio  Seco  del 
Conventillo,  Meduias  or  Gastona,  Rio  Chico,  Matasambe, 
and  Marapa ;  this  last  terminates  the  series  of  westerly 
confluents  of  the  Rio  Dulce.  The  Rio  San  Francisco, 
which  forms  the  southern  limit  with  Santiago,  is  lost  in 
the  plain  further  south.  On  the  north-east  the  Rio 
Sali  receives  only  three  rivulets,  viz.,  Calera,  Potrillo. 
and  Loro,  which  come  from  the  little  Sierras  Medina 
and  Yorami.  The  Zapallar  and  the  Urueiia,  whose 
course  is  eastward,  are  lost  in  the  plain,  and  rarely 
reach  the  rivulet  Los  Horcones,  which  is  itself  absorbed 
by  the  sands  before  touching  the  Juramento  river. 

In  their  upper  part  these  rivulets  receive  a  number 
of  small  streams,  which  are  used  generally  for  irriga- 
tion; none  are  navigable,  and  several  are  dry  during 
part  of  the  year.  With  the  rains  of  spring  and  summer 
they  swell  and  flow  in  violent  torrents,  which  makes  the 
Sali  dangerous  to  ford.  From  the  mouth  of  the  Marapa 
river,  the  Sali  takes  the  name  of  Rio  Hondo,  and  after- 
wards, lower  down,  that  of  Rio  Dulce,  whose  ultimate 
course  has  been  described. 

Gneiss  and  mica-schist  constitute  the  principal  geolo- 
gical formation  of  the  mountainous  districts,  but  in  some 
parts  there  are  traces  of  volcanic  action.  In  the  little 
ranges  to  the  east  of  Rio  Sali  there  is  sandstone  and  some 
limestone.  This  part  suff'ers  much  from  drought,  and 
the  vegetation  is  not  so  good  as  on  the  high  western 
ranges,  where  the  rocks  are  covered  by  a  rich  vegetable 
earth. 

In  the  plain,  the  altitude  of  which  varies  from  300 
to  400  metres,  the  mould  is  deep  and  rich.  Instead  of 
the  sandy  clay  soil  of  the  saHne  districts  of  the  west,  the 

2   D 


226 

earth  here  is  black  and  fertile  as  in  Entre  Rios  and 
Corrientes;  the  subsoil  is  reddish,  a  little  marly,  but 
loose;  at  a  short  distance  from  the  mountain  scarcely 
a  stone  is  to  be  found  on  the  surface.  In  the  dry  season 
the  Avater  in  the  rivers  is  crystaline,  and  flows  over  a 
bed  of  fine  white  sand,  whilst  in  the  rainy  season  it  is 
thick  and  turbid.  The  soil  of  Tucuman  is  everywhere 
fertile,  and  irrigation  is  not  so  absolutely  necessary  for 
cultivation  as  in  the  other  Andine  provinces. 

In  the  Sierra  ofAconquij  a  there  are  doubtless  mineral 
deposits,  containing  gold,  silver,  copper,  lead,  and  iron, 
together  with  rock  crystal,  marbles,  limestone,  and 
sandstone,  but  owino-  to  the  dense  veo-etation  and  thick- 
ness  of  surface  soil,  exploration  is  difiicult. 

Earthquakes  are  rarely  felt,  and  the  few  shocks  that 
have  occurred  have  not  been  of  sufficient  violence  to 
cause  devastation,  and  therefore  no  particular  precau- 
tion is  necessary  in  the  construction  of  public  edifices 
and  houses. 

The  climate  of  the  province  varies  according  to  the 
altitude  of  the  two  regions  just  mentioned.  It  is  much 
more  humid  in  the  mountainous  regions  than  in  the 
other  chains  of  the  Andes.  This  is  owing,  no  doubt, 
to  the  absence  of  plateaux,  and  esj^ecially  to  the  situa- 
tion of  Aconquija,  which  is  on  the  borders  of  the  great 
plain  of  the  pampas  The  year  is  divided  into  two 
seasons, — the  rainy,  which  commences  at  the  end  of 
October  and  continues  to  March,  and  the  dry,  which 
lasts  the  remainder  of  the  year;  nevertheless  there  are 
other  periods  of  ram  in  the  latter  season,  and  abundant 
dews  fall,  which  stimulate  vegetation. 

The  period  of  the  greatest  rain  is  the  hot  season,  and 
is  nearly  always  stormy.     In  the  morning  the  sky  is 


227 

clear  and  the  heat  intense;  two  or  three  hours  after  the 
sun  reaches  the  meridian,  storms  come  on,  and  rain  falls 
in  torrents  for  about  two  hours ;  then  the  heavens  are 
again  clear  until  the  next  day.  In  the  mountains  the 
rains  are  more  frequent  and  more  abundant  than  on  the 
plain;  they  commence  earlier  in  the  season  and  finish 
later.  Frost  is  rare  and  of  very  short  duration,  even  at 
an  altitude  of  450  metres,  at  which  the  town  of  Tucuman 
is  situate,  and  of  which  the  mean  temperature  is  21^^ 
Cent.  It  is  fresh  in  the  months  of  July  and  August, 
and  extremely  hot  from  November  to  May.  Above 
800  metres  the  cHmate  changes  suddenly,  and  as  much 
as  3^  frost  is  felt.  The  winds  in  general  are  not  very 
strong,  nor  so  frequent  as  in  the  lower  provinces ;  during 
the  bad,  rainy  weather,  the  wind  changes  from  gusts  to 
hurricanes. 

The  chain  of  Aconquija  presents  a  remarkable 
phenomenon,  dividing,  as  it  does,  the  dry  regions  of  the 
Andes  from  the  more  humid  climate  of  the  pampas. 
To  the  west  of  this  chain  it  rains  during  the  summer 
only,  and  then  but  rarely.  To  the  east  the  rains  are 
copious,  especially  during  the  hot  period. 

The  climate,  although  hot  eight  months  of  the  year, 
is  neither  unhealthy  nor  debilitating ;  the  only  malady 
peculiar  to  the  country  is  intermittent  fever,  but,  by  a 
better  system  of  drainage,  this  might,  in  a  great  measure, 
be  obviated.  The  great  rains,  which  fall  during  summer, 
cause  the  overflow  of  rivers,  rivulets,  and  lagoons,  which 
evaporate  towards  the  end  of  the  autumn,  and  being 
highly  charged  with  decomposed  vegetable  matter, 
fill  the  atmosphere  with  malaria.  The  intermittent 
fevers  are,  however,  not  violent  and  of  short  duration, 
and  might,  to  a  great  extent,  be  avoided  by  observing 


228 

regular  hal3its  and  abstaining  from  fruit.  Diseases  of 
the  skin  and  pulmonary  phthisis  are  met  with  more  fre- 
quently than  in  the  adjoining  provinces.  The  pleuro- 
pneumonia of  the  Andes  makes  its  appearance  during  win- 
ter. Notwithstanding  all  this  the  country  is  very  healthy ; 
this  is  proved  by  the  considerable  difference  which  is 
noted  in  the  returns  of  bii'ths  and  deaths,  being  in  the 
proportion  of  2  to  1.  During  a  period  of  25  years,  the 
register  of  baptisms  in  the  department  of  the  capital, 
which  is  the  most  populous,  was  stated  at  27,399,  whilst 
the  mortality  was  only  13,641. 

We  have  already  alluded  to  the  magnificent  vegeta- 
tion of  Tucuman.  It  is  quite  tropical  on  the  plains  and 
upon  the  eastern  watershed  of  the  mountains  to  the 
altitude  of  1,000  metres ;  higher  up — above  2,000  metres 
— it  resembles  that  of  Central  Europe. 

In  the  lower  districts  the  heat,  combined  with 
humidity,  tends  to  develop,  to  a  prodigious  extent,  the 
trees,  some  of  which  attain  enormous  proportions. 
Laurels  at  La  Fronterita  have  been  known  to  measure 
eight  metres  in  circumference,  and  at  the  foot  of  the 
Sierra  cedars  (red  and  white),  quebrachos,  walnut, 
lapachos,  pacaras,  &c.,  reach  a  gigantic  size  and  furnish 
magnificent  timber  for  joiners,  cabinetwork,  and  build- 
ing purposes.  Parisitic  plants  of  all  sizes  cover  the  old 
trees  of  the  forests.  Among  the  herbaceous  plants  there 
is  an  infinite  number  of  those  which  are  useful  or 
agreeable  for  their  fruits,  flowers,  and  their  medicinal  or 
aromatic  properties.  In  short,  this  province  unites  in 
itself  every  species  of  vegetation  which  we  find  dissemi- 
nated over  the  other  parts  of  the  Argentine  territory. 
Agriculture  is  well  developed.  After  the  production  of 
wheat,  maize,    and   rice,  for  which  there  is  local  con- 


229 

sumption,  they  culti\'ate  primitively,  in  the  same  soil, 
the  sugar  cane  and  tobacco  which  form  the  chief  com- 
mercial sources  of  prosperity  in  the  province.  The 
sugar  cane  was  first  introduced  from  Peru,  by  the 
Abbe  Colombres,  and  cultivated  in  the  year  1824,  and 
has  since  been  extensively  increased,  providing  for  the 
consumption,  not  only  of  this,  but  of  the  neighbouring 
provinces.  Tobacco  is  now  cultivated  on  a  large  scale, 
and  forms  the  principal  export  to  Chili,  which  country 
is  almost  exclusively  supplied  from  this  source.  The 
humidity  of  the  summer  facilitates  the  production  of 
maize  and  rice, — the  latter  of  superior  quality.  Wheat 
produces  fairly  in  the  mountainous  districts  at  an  alti- 
tude of  800  metres,  but  on  the  plains  the  heat  and 
humidity  of  the  climate  frequently  engender  blight 
and  destroy  the  whole  crop.  This  cause  also  prevents 
the  successful  cultivation  of  the  vine  near  the  capital, 
which,  however,  does  not  apply  to  the  mountains.  All 
European  vegetables  grow  well,  especially  the  potato 
and  cabbage,  which  are  exquisite.  The  plain  possesses 
nearly  all  the  fruit  trees  of  hot  climates,  the  orange, 
cherimoUier,  guava,  fig,  pomegranates,  the  pistachio  nut, 
&c.  As  the  province  of  Tucuman  partakes  of  all  climates, 
so  all  the  productions  of  the  world  could  be  easily  culti- 
vated. To  ordinary  agriculture  might  easily  be  added 
the  extensive  cultivation  of  cotton  and  indigo,  which 
latter  grows  there  as  an  indigenous  plant,  as  also  does 
the  cactus,  on  which  the  cochineal  insect  is  found  in 
abundance. 

Independently  of  the  animals  peculiar  to  the  lower 
provinces,  Tucuman  possesses  the  tapir,  pecari,  the 
vampire,  which  torments  the  cattle  at  night,  the  couguar, 
the    scourge  of  goats  and  sheep  in  the  mountains,  and 


230 

the  jaguar,  which  is  now  rare ;  the  boa  is  seen  only  in 
the  forests  and  is  comparatively  harmless.  The  condor, 
eagles,  and  large  birds  of  prey  dwell  in  the  Sierra  of 
Aconquija ;  likewise  the  guanaco  and  vicuna. 

Bovine  cattle  abound,  and  of  a  larger  and  JDetter  class 
than  those  found  in  the  lower  provmces,  owing  to  the 
superior  quality  of  the  pasture  and  abundance  of  good 
water.  It  is  principally  from  this  province  that  the 
markets  of  Chili  and  Bolivia  are  supplied,  the  former  by 
way  of  Mendoza  and  San  Juan,  where,  as  already  stated, 
the  cattle  are  fattened  up  on  lucerne,  and  driven  over 
the  Andes. 

Horses  and  mules,  although  found  in  fair  abundance, 
are  principally  introduced  from  Mendoza  and  San  Juan, 
and  this  branch  of  industry  is  frequently  very  profitable. 

The  growth  of  commerce,  and  consequently  of  transit, 
has  raised  the  price  of  beasts  of  burden  very  con- 
siderably, and  encourages  the  breeders  in  all  the  Andine 
provinces.  This,  however,  acts  injuriously  on  the 
breeding  of  goats  and  sheep;  the  latter  produce  fine 
wool,  independently  of  their  use  as  an  article  of  food. 

Tucuman  is  about  the  most  industrious  of  all  the  in- 
terior provinces  of  the  Argentine  Republic.  Its 
distance  from  the  coast  obliges  it  to  give  special  atten- 
tion to  the  mechanical  arts,  and  the  preparation  of  wood 
for  building  and  cabinet  work,  which  is  exported  to  the 
neighbouring  provinces,  especially  to  those  of  Cuyo ;  also 
to  the  construction  of  carts,  the  manufacture  of  stuff's, 
and  the  tanning  of  hides. 

At  the  present  moment  the  production  of  tobacco  and 
manufacture  of  sugar  command  the  principal  attention 
of  the  inhabitants.  Of  the  latter,  there  are  now  25  large 
plantations   and  manufactories,  each  producing  6J  to 


231 

75  tons  of  sugar,  and  50  to  400  barrels  (600  to  4,800 
gallons)  of  rum,  without  enumerating  smaller  establish- 
ments. The  total  annual  production  may  be  estimated 
at  one  million  of  kilogs.  of  sugar  (985  tons);  and  7,000 
hectolitres  (154,000  gallons)  of  cana  or  rum.  Part  is 
consumed  in  the  province ;  the  remainder  is  exported  to 
Santiago  del  Estero,  to  Catamarca,  and  to  Rioja. 

At  one  of  the  sugar  plantations,  the  property  of  Don 
Wenceslao  Posse,  I  was  permitted  to  make  some  notes 
on  the  produce  of  his  estates  and  its  annual  value. 

The  estate  consists  of  2,500  acres  of  splendidly  wooded 
and  open  pasture  land,  situate  about  10  miles  to  the 
south  of  the  city,  and  240  acres  of  this  was  planted  with 
sugar  cane.  Some  of  the  plants  had  been  18  years  in 
the  ground  and  still  produced  fairly ;  but  it  is  not  con- 
sidered advantageous  to  pass  the  fifteenth  year. 

It  is  calculated  that  an  acre  will  cost  about  £1  10s. 
to  plant  the  first  year,  and  will  of  course  only  require 
ordinary  care  and  treatment  to  keep  productive  during 
successive  ones.  Seiior  Posse  began  24  years  ago 
with  a  capital  of  £500 ;  his  estate  cost  then  only  £75, 
and  this,  together  with  the  works,  are  now  worth  at  least 
£10,000,  according  to  the  local  valuation,  whilst  the 
annual  income  derived  from  it  would  represent  about 
£5,000. 

The  annual  expenses  on  the  sugar  plantation  amount 
to  about  £2,500,  including  the  boiling  down  of  syrup 
and  production  of  rum.  The  produce  obtained  is  as 
follows: — 125  tons  (Spanish)  sugar,  at  £40,  realizable 
on  the  spot,  £5,000;  1,600  barrels  of  rum,  sold  there 
at  £2  per  barrel,  £3,200 ;  total  produce,  £8,200.  Deduct 
cost,  £2,500,  and  20  per  cent,  for  extras,  £500,  making 
£3,000;  which  leaves  a  net  total  of  £5,200. 


232 

The  gathering  in  of  the  cane  begins  usually  in  June 
and  lasts  up  to  the  end  of  August.  It  is  transported 
from  the  fields  on  bullock  carts  and  delivered  at  the 
mill,  where  it  is  cleaned  of  the  leaves  and  passed  through 
a  powerful  pair  of  rolls,  worked  by  an  overshot  water 
wheel.  The  syrup  is  received  in  a  trough  beneath,  and 
pumped  into  vats  or  deposits,  whence  it  is  drawn  off  by 
pipes  into  the  boilers,  or  evaporating  pans,  and  boiled 
down.  The  fuel  used  is  wood,  but,  owing  to  a  very  old 
and  now  obsolete  method  of  setting  the  pans,  a  great 
waste  of  caloric  takes  place,  and  makes  this  operation 
very  costly  and  slow.  Formerly  the  resulting  mass  of 
sugar  was  whitened  or  decolorised  by  being  placed 
in  earthenware  jars  of  a  conical  shape,  having  a  hole 
perforated  in  the  bottom,  on  which  was  placed  a  thin 
layer  of  straw.  These  were  filled  up  to  within  a  few 
inches  of  the  top,  and  the  remaining  space  filled  up 
with  mud,  when  the  jars  were  allowed  to  stand  and  the 
treacle  to  drain  off  by  the  perforation  in  the  bottom. 
This  continued  for  sometimes  60  and  80  days,  when  the 
layer  of  mud  was  removed  and  the  sugar  found  to  be 
quite  dry  and  white,  the  mud  having  absorbed  that 
portion  of  the  treacle  and  colouring  matter  which  did 
not  drain  off.  This  system  required  a  very  large 
amount  of  house  accomodation  and  apparatus,  as  well  as 
considerable  capital  to  enable  the  sugar  maker  to  wait 
for  the  completion  of  the  process  and  realize  his  profits. 

Now  it  is  different,  as  Senor  Posse  has  introduced  the 
well-known  centrifugal  decolorising  machine  as  used  in 
the  West  Indies.  This  is  driven  by  a  small  steam 
engine,  and  performs  in  a  few  minutes  what  on  the  old 
prmciple  required  months  to  effect.  I  believe  that  only 
two  or  three  of  these  machines  are  as  yet  in  use  in  the 


233 

country,  and  the  sugar  growers  who  have  them  not  are 
obliged  to  follow  the  old  system  just  described. 

A  little  rice  and  some  oranges  are  exported  to  Cordo- 
ba. Tucuman  furnishes  carts  for  nearly  all  the  transit  of 
the  interior  of  the  Republic ;  and  yet,  at  the  present  time, 
it  sends  on  mule-back  the  wood  for  building,  joinery, 
and  cabinet  work  to  the  provinces  of  San  Juan  and 
Mendoza.  They  also  manufacture  furniture  for  the 
use  of  the  country.  Dry  and  tanned  skins  are  sent  to 
the  coast ;  as  they  are  of  good  quality,  thanks  to  the  su- 
periority of  the  bark  (quebracho  Colorado)  employed  in 
tanning,  they  make  fair  competition  with  the  importations 
from  Europe  at  Rosario  and  Buenos  Ayres.  It  is  esti- 
mated that  60,000  hides  per  annum  are  thus  prepared. 
The  inhabitants  of  the  mountains  excel  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  cheese,  called  "  Tafi,"  from  the  principal  estancia 
where  it  is  made.  These  cheeses  resemble  the  Roque- 
fort and  are  of  superior  quality. 

All  this  commerce  enables  the  province  of  Tucuman 
to  be  large  importers  of  foreign  produce,  which  arrives 
there  by  caravans  of  carts  from  the  coast,  or  by  troops 
of  mules  from  Chili  by  the  passes  of  the  Cordillera. 
By  the  latter  route  the  cost  is  excessive  and  the  carts 
are  preferred. 

Tucuman  is  evidently  making  rapid  progress.  A  num- 
ber of  foreigners  are  settled  there,  especially  French- 
men and  Italians,  who  have  powerfully  contributed  to 
the  commercial  and  industrial  activity  of  the  country. 
About  12  years  ago  the  spirit  of  enterprise,  generally 
so  rare  and  dull  in  the  interior  provinces,  began  to  de- 
develop  itself  and  has  produced  excellent  results. 
This  is  principally  owing  to  the  introduction  of  saw  mills, 
worked  by  water  power  in  the  Sierra ;  iron  mills  or  rolls 

for  the  sugar  cane ;  and  a  large  number  of  agricultural  im- 

2e 


2M 

plements.     Thus  the  population  manifestly  iiicreases  in 
number  and  advances  in  civilization. 

The  province  of  Tucuman  is  divided  into  nine  depart- 
ments, which  in  their  turn  are  subdivided  into  six  town 
districts  and  thirty-nine  country  districts.  These  are 
the  Capital,  Famailla,  Monteros,  Rio  Chico  Chicligasta, 
Graneros, — all  near  the  eastern  base  of  the  Sierra  de 
Aconquija;  Leales,  on  the  plain  to  the  east  of  the  Rio 
Sali ;  Troncas,  in  the  mountains  to  the  north  of  the  pro- 
vince ;  Burru- Yacii,  in  the  little  Sierras  and  plains  to 
the  north-east.  The  town  of  Tucuman  is  situated  in 
26°  52'  lat.  south  and  long.  68^  20'  west  (Paris),  accord- 
ing to  Captain  Page,  U.S.  Navy,  and  at  430  metres  above 
sea  level  according  to  De  Moussy.  It  is  built  on  a  very 
level  plain,  upon  the  left  bank  of  the  Rio  Sali,  from 
which  it  is  a  mile  distant.  The  ground  upon  which  it 
is  built  rises  from  seven  to  eight  metres  above  the  plain 
where  the  Sali  flows,  and  consequently  is  not  subject  to 
its  inundations.  To  the  west  of  the  city  there  are  gentle 
undulations,  which  gradually  mingle  with  the  first  spurs 
of  the  buttresses  of  the  Aconquija  range.  The  town  was 
originally  founded  in  1565  by  Don  Diego  de  Villaroel, 
a  companion  of  Pizarro  in  his  conquest  of  Peru.  He 
gave  it  the  name  of  San  Miguel  de  Tucuman,  and  it  was 
situate  twelve  leagues  farther  south  than  the  present 
town  and  in  closer  proximity  to  the  river.  Twenty 
years  subsequently  an  inundation  destroyed  it,  when  it 
was  abandoned,  and  the  present  town  was  built  in  a  lo- 
cality less  exposed.  In  its  actual  position  it  overlooks 
the  great  plains  to  the  west,  and  the  declivity  of  the 
land  towards  the  river  permits  easy  drainage  of  the  rain 
water,  and  that  employed  for  irrigation,  which  is  derived 
from  the  streams  in  the  Sierra  during  the  dry  season. 

The  streets  are  very   long,   tolerably  wide,  and  at 


235 

right  angles.  The  town  consists  of  118  squares  or 
blocks  of  houses,  each  with  138  metres  frontage ;  this 
admits  of  large  courtyards  and  gardens,  where  the  orange 
tree  predominates.  The  old  buildings  are  generally  only 
of  one  storey  high,  with  flat  and  tiled  roofs ;  the  nume- 
rous modern  houses,  however,  are  often  of  two  storeys 
high,  and  with  terrace  roofs  as  at  Buenos  Ayres,  the 
system  of  architecture  being  perfectly  appropriate  to  the 
climate,  which,  as  already  stated,  is  so  very  hot  during 
eight  months  of  the  year.  The  materials  consist  of  ex- 
cellent brick  and  lime  mortar.  Gypsum  is  abundant, 
and  in  the  neighbourhood  marbles  and  freestone  of 
excellent  quality  can  be  procured.  The  carpentry  is 
furnished  from  the  magnificent  timber  of  the  country. 
The  town  is  well  built,  and  presents  an  appearance  of 
gaiety  and  luxury  which  is  scarcely  expected  in  such  a 
remote  interior  district. 

The  most  remarkable  public  edifices  are  the  parish 
church  Matriz  and  the  Cabildo.  The  Matriz  is  a 
beautiful  modern  edifice,  ornamented  with  two  square 
towers  38  metres  high,  and  a  dome  whose  interior 
is  painted  in  fresco  by  a  French  artist.  A  Doric  colon- 
nade forms  the  portico.  The  only  fault  seems  to  be  the 
width  of  the  lateral  naves.  The  plan  and  execution  are 
the  work  of  a  French  architect,  M.  Pierre  Echeverri,  an 
old  settler  in  Tucuman,  who  also  restored,  or  rather 
reconstructed,  the  church  of  the  convent  of  the  Francis- 
cans, which  is  likewise  very  beautiful.  The  decoration 
of  the  interior  of  the  Matriz  corresponds  with  the  ex- 
terior and  is  in  excellent  taste.  The  subscriptions  of 
the  faithful,  the  assistance  of  the  Provincial  Government, 
the  application  of  the  tithes  which  then  existed,  the  ac- 
tivity of  the  clergy,  and  \\iQ  union  of  all,  finally  raised 


236 

this  remarkable  edifice,  under  the  administration  of 
General  Don  Celedonio  Gutierrez,  and  the  Governors 
who  succeeded  him  have  applied  the  same  zeal  to  finish 
and  embellish  it.  The  Cabildo,  which  occupies  the 
west  side  of  the  jDlaza,  or  principal  square,  is  a  heavy 
edifice  of  the  first  Spaniards,  ornamented  with  a  high 
clock  tower,  and  at  one  time  served  as  a  barracks  for 
soldiers.  It  is  now  the  Provincial  Government  House, 
and  the  Chamber  of  Deputies  meet  there.  The  princi- 
pal plaza  of  Tucuman  is  ornamented  with  a  high  column, 
built  in  brick  and  plastered,  surmounted  by  a  statue  of 
liberty.  This  square  has  been  recently  planted  with 
orange  trees,  and  provided  with  marble  benches  for 
public  accomodation ;  it  is  situated  in  the  middle  of  the 
town  and  forms  an  agreeable  promenade.  The  number 
of  shops  which  surround  it  also  makes  it  a  very  ani- 
mated and  popular  centre  of  resort.  Neither  the  church 
of  the  Dominicans,  nor  the  convent  orBeatonide  Jesus, 

O     nor  La  Merced  presen^anything  worthy  of  remark. 

^  Two  monuments,  although  in  themselves  very  simple, 

recall  noble  souvenirs,  not  only  for  the  town  of  Tucu- 
man, but  for  the  whole  of  the  Argentine  Republic ;  the 
one  is  a  column  which  is  raised  near  the  town,  at  a  spot 
called  La  Ciudadela,  where,  on  the  24th  of  September, 
1812,  the  patriot  army,  conducted  by  General  Belgrano, 
2fained  a  complete  victory  over  General  Tristan  who 
commanded  the  Spanish  forces ;  the  other,  the  identical 
house,  including  the  hall,  where,  on  9th  July,  1816,  the 
first  National  Congress  proclaimed  the  independence  of 
the  country.  The  plain  of  Ciudadela  is  situate  south- 
west of  the  town,  and  has  been  often  the  theatre  of 
numerous  combats  during  the  civil  wars. 

A  social  club,  composed  of  the  young  gallants  of  the 


237 

town,  gives  a  monthly  ball  to  the  elite  of  society.  These 
assemblies  are  very  gay  and  popular,  and  there  the  ami- 
able and  graceful  Tucumanas  vie  with  each  other  in  music 
and  dancing ;  indeed  I  was  surprised  to  find  such  really 
good  musicians  amongst  the  young  girls — some  of  whom, 
under  the  tuition  of  Italian  masters,  excel  in  execution. 
The  outskirts  of  the  capital  are  well  peopled  and  cul- 
tivated ;  it  is  here  where  the  principal  sugar  plantations 
and  the  tanneries  are  situate.  They  are  divided  into 
seven  districts,  viz..  Las  Aguirres,  Chacras  del  Norte, 
comprising  the  country  houses  and  farms  to  the  north 
of  the  town;  Cebil  Redondo,  to  the  west,  where  the 
great  sugar  refinery  of  Don  Felix  Frias  is  situated ;  to 
the  south,  Yerba  Buena;  lastly,  Chacras  on  the  south- 
east, north-east,  and  north-west.  All  these  districts 
are  well  cultivated  and  enclosed  by  ditches  and  hedges 
of  the  cactus  opuntia. 

From  what  we  have  seen  of  the  richness  and  importance 
of  this  province,  it  would  seem  to  present  one  of  the 
most  enchanting  places  for  immigration  in  South 
America. 

The  extent  of  land  which  might  be  brought  under 
cultivation  by  a  proper  distribution  of  the  surplus 
waters,  now  partially  inundating  the  country,  is  almost 
unlimited.  Sugar  planting  and  tobacco  growing,  as  we 
have  seen,  is  even  now  most  lucrative,  and  when  rail- 
way communication  from  Cordoba  will  have  placed  it 
in  contact  with  the  lower  provinces,  and  secured  a  ready 
market  for  its  produce,  it  will  indeed  be  a  rich  and  im- 
portant territory.  Land  is  comparatively  cheap,  and-^  ^^ 
may  be  purchased  in  freehold  for  about  3Jd.  per  acre,  ^ 
studded  with  the  most  valuable  trees  and  fertile  in  the 
extreme.     I  need  scarcely  point  out  that  once  the  rail-       'SJ 


238 

way  will  have  been  made,  and  even  before,  these  lands 
must  increase  very  rapidly  in  value,  and  become  even- 
tually a  most  desirable  investment  for  capital.  It  is 
true  that  at  the  present  moment  there  is  not  local  con- 
sumjotion  for  more  than  is  produced  in  sugar  and  rice, 
and  the  high  rates  of  freight  preclude  their  profitable 
exportation.  But  the  railway  will  of  course  alter  all 
these  figures,  and  these  staples  must  assume  their  proper 
place  very  soon  in  the  markets  of  Buenos  Ay  res  and 
Monte  A'^ideo. 

Labour  in  Tucuman,  although  scarce,  is  very  cheap, 
and  peones  or  common  workmen  may  be  hired  for  £2 
a  month  without  food. 

It  would  seem  a  most  desirable  arrangement  to  intro- 
duce here  a  number  of  coolies,  to  be  employed  in  the 
sugar  plantations,  and,  no  doubt,  later  on,  when  men  of 
capital  and  intelligence  direct  their  attention  to  this 
"garden  of  the  Republic,"  this,  and  many  other  impor- 
tant reforms,  will  take  place. 

As  no  mines  or  mineral  veins  were  being  worked  in 
this  province,  and  the  existing  lodes  are  so  little  known 
or  explored,  I  do  not  give  any  particulars  as  to  its  mineral 
resources. 

Population,  1869.— City,  17,438;  country,  91,668; 
total,  109,106. 


239 


PROVINCE  OF  SANTIAGO  DEL  ESTERO. 


GENERAL   PHYSICAL    ASPECT,    DESCRIPTION    OF    SOIL, 
CLIMATE,  &c. 

The  Province  of  Santiago  del  Estero,  to  the  north  of 
Cordoba,  extends  between  26^^  and  30^  south  lat.  and 
64*^  30'  and  67^  west.  long.  (Paris),  and  contains  3,500 
square  miles,  without  including  that  part  of  the  Gran 
Chaco,  Tucuman,  and  Salta,  over  which  it  exercises  the 
right  of  j  urisdiction. 

It  is  separated  from  the  province  of  Cordoba  by  a 
line  which  corresponds  nearly  with  the  30th  parallel, 
and  with  which  coincides  a  very  remarkable  division  in 
the  nature  of  the  soil,  which  here  ceases  to  be  calcareous 
and  humid,  becoming  granitic  and  dry. 

To  the  south-west  and  west  its  limits  with  Catamarca 
and  Rioja  are  marked  by  the  river  Albigasta,  the 
southern  prolongation  of  the  Sierra  de  Ancaste,  and  the 
basin  of  the  Salinas.  In  going  northward  by  the  river 
Albigasta,  the  line  of  division  between  this  province  and 
those  of  Tucuman  and  Salta  passes  by  a  number  of  in- 
habited estancias,  corresponding  to  the  67°  meridian  of 
west  long.,  and  ends  at  thq  farm  of  Mojon,  situated  on 
the  east  side  of  the  Rio  Salado.     This  farm  of  Mojon 


240 

marks  the  frontier  on  the  north  with  Salta.  To  the  east 
it  borders  upon  the  Gran  Chaco  and  does  not  extend 
beyond  the  preceding  river.  To  the  south-east  it 
touches  Santa  Fe  by  the  desert,  at  the  series  of  undu- 
lations known  by  the  name  of  Los  Altos.  All  the  limits 
are  very  vague,  and  have  no  defined  position,  as  they 
lie  on  a  desert,  and  are  rather  those  given  by  custom 
than  by  legal  delineation.  If  the  extent  of  the  province 
is  calculated  by  that  part  only  which  is  inhabited  its 
greatest  length  is  from  north  to  south,  and  then  its 
breadth  will  be  reduced  to  a  few  leagues ;  the  territory 
of  the  Gran  Chaco,  inhabited  only  by  wandering  tribes 
of  Indians,  should  naturally  be  assigned  to  it. 

The  average  altitude  of  the  province  of  Santiago  del 
Estero  is  about  200  metres  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
and  is  situated  in  a  large  plain  of  a  sandy-clay  nature, 
which  is  partly  covered  with  primeval  forests  and  tra- 
versed nearly  through  its  centre  by  a  shallow  saline 
basin  running  from  east  to  west.  It  is  divided  from 
north-west  to  south-east  by  two  rivers,  the  Rio  Salado 
or  Juramento,  and  the  Rio  Dulce,  which  flow  parallel 
to  each  other,  and  between  which  is  centered  the 
majority  of  the  population  of  the  province.  Towards 
the  middle  is  a  low  range  of  mountains  of  a  species  of 
granite,  called  Guazayan ;  to  the  south  of  the  basin  of 
the  Salinas  begin  to  rise  by  gentle  undulations  the 
mass  of  mountains  designated  in  other  parts  of  this 
work  as  the  great  central  Argentine  range. 

The  Rio  Juramento  or  Salado  borders  the  north- 
east of  the  province,  and  forms  the  frontier  upon  the 
Chaco,  together  with  the  estancias  of  San  Miguel  and 
Mojon.  These  two  rivers  are  studded  with  farms, 
principallv  for  breeding  cattle,  but  when  they  over- 


241 

flow  the  land  is  prodigiously  fertile  and  agriculture 
is  followed.  As  far  as  Sepulturas  the  Juramento  is 
engorged,  compact,  and  deep,  owing  to  the  natural 
sudden  declivity  of  the  country ;  but  from  this  point  the 
country  becomes  so  flat  that  the  waters  meander  right 
and  left,  forming  lagoons  and  shallows,  and  rendering 
navigation  impossible.  It  is  only  at  Navicha  that  one 
finds  again  the  bed  of  the  river  well  defined,  after  which 
it  flows  through  the  desert  and  to  the  Indian  territory. 
From  Sepulturas  to  Navicha  there  are  three  vastbaiiados 
or  marshes,  formed  by  the  overflow  of  the  river,  namely, 
San  Antonio,  also  called  the  lagoon  of  Tomacop-Hoyon, 
and  Bracho,  above  the  fort  of  this  name,  and  those  of 
Navicha  below. 

The  left  bank  of  the  Salado  is  bordered  with  thorny 
forests  so  thick  that  it  is  impossible  to  penetrate  them 
except  by  some  openings  known  only  to  the  natives. 
The  right  bank  is  more  open,  and  produces  good  pasture, 
where  numerous  cattle  farms  are  established.  Near  the 
banks  are  lagoons,  with  more  or  less  water,  according 
to  the  height  of  the  river  and  the  quantity  of  rain  which 
falls  in  the  province.  From  Navicha  to  the  territory  of 
Santa  Fe  the  river  is  compact  and  deep,  but  nevertheless 
is  fordable  in  several  places.  In  1860  a  number  of  small 
forts  were  established  on  its  banks,  some  on  the  site  of 
the  old  Spanish  forts,  and  others  in  new  localities,  chosen 
as  much  for  their  strategic  position  commanding  the 
passes  as  for  their  fertility.  From  the  Fort  of  Bracho 
to  Monte  Aguara  the  Salado  forms  the  military  line  of 
frontier  of  the  Republic  upon  the  Chaco. 

The  Rio  Dulce,  formed  by  all  the  rivulets  and  torrents 
which  descend  from  the  great  range  of  Aconquija,  enters 
the  province  of  Santiago  by  the  village  of  Rio  Hondo, 

2    F 


242 

flowing  from  west  to  east  across  an  undulating  country 
towards  the  capital,  and  is  bordered  by  high  protecting 
banks,  which  maintain  it  in  its  course.  Passing  to  the 
east  of  the  town  of  Santiago,  it  runs  towards  the  south- 
east across  a  country  absolutely  flat;  fifteen  leagues 
lower  down,  at  Tayuyo,  there  are  several  old  beds,  over 
which,  in  the  course  of  years,  the  river  has  alternately 
passed.  During  the  overflows  large  quantities  of  silt 
are  deposited,  which  successively  fill  up  these  beds,  and 
the  last  one  which  remained  open  was  unfortunately 
directed  towards  the  side  of  the  Salinas,  where  it  has 
formed  a  lagoon,  whose  waters  flow  sluggishly  and  after- 
wards rejoin  their  old  bed,  much  lower  down,  forming 
the  river  Saladillo. 

The  Saladillo  is  a  river  of  considerable  size  and  depth, 
flowing  through  a  natural  fosse,  which  formerly  received 
the  rain  waters  of  the  basin  of  the  Salinas  and  carried 
them  to  the  Rio  Dulce.  But  in  1825,  when  the  Dulce, 
near  Tayuyo,  opened  a  new  course  towards  the  Salinas, 
its  waters  passed  and  still  continue  to  flow  entirely  into 
the  Saladillo,  which  it  has  enlarged,  and  whose  bed  it 
has  deepened  in  such  a  manner  as  to  make  it  a  copious 
and  rapid  river  during  the  rainy  seasons.  It  is  by  this 
means  that  the  Rio  Dulce  regains  its  old  bed  at  Paso  de 
San  Cristoval.  From  this  place  the  Dulce,  now  united 
to  the  Saladillo,  but  no  longer  salt  and  bitter,  flows 
towards  the  lagoon  Los  Porongos. 

The'lands  bordering  the  Rio  Dulce  towards  the  north 
are  moderately  wooded  and  fit  for  agriculture.  Lower 
down  they  are  covered  alternately  with  pasture  and 
thick  forests,  having  at  intervals  well-cultivated  farms 
and  homesteads.  The  Saladillo  flows  through  a  saline 
sandy  desert,  but  nevertheless,  near  the  lagoons  formed 


243 

by  the  new  course  of  the  Rio  Dulce,  the  cultivation  of 
cereals  is  possible,  and  even  advantageous,  as  the  lands 
covered  by  water  in  the  summer  and  autumn  are  fer- 
tilized and  left  dry  in  the  spring. 

For  nearly  two  degrees  of  latitude,  the  two  rivers 
Juramento  and  Dulce  flow  parallel  to  one  another,  leav- 
ing a  space  between  them  varying  from  15  to  25  leagues, 
but  which  may  average  20  leagues.  This  space  is  an 
absolute  plain  of  sandy  clay  soil,  covered  partly  with 
forest  trees  and  partly  with  pasture,  having  some  saline 
districts,  in  the  midst  of  which  lagoons  of  fresh  water 
are  found.  In  some  places  deep  furrows  indicate  the 
old  bed  of  the  Rio  Dulce  and  traces  of  communication 
between  the  two  rivers. 

The  conformation  of  the  land  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  Juramento  and  Dulce,  and  in  the  major  part  of  the 
province,  is  favourable  to  the  formation  of  a  large  num- 
ber of  lagoons,  temporary  or  permanent,  and  more  or 
less  numerous,  according  as  the  rivers  have  been 
abundant  and  the  overflow  of  the  two  rivers  more 
violent.  These  lagoons  receive  the  name  of  "  esteros," 
whence  is  derived  that  of  the  province  Santiago  del 
Estero  (St.  James  of  the  Rivulet). 

In  the  north  of  the  province  there  exists  a  stream 
called  Rio  de  los  Horcones,  whose  waters  only  reach  the 
Salado  after  very  heavy  rains.  The  difi'erent  rivulets 
which  form  the  main  stream  take  their  source  from  the 
eastern  hills  of  Salta  and  Tucuman. 

The  nature  of  the  soil  of  the  province  varies  according 
to  the  locality.  It  is  composed  principally  of  a  granitic 
sand  in  the  districts  bordering  on  the  mountains  of 
Ancaste,  in  Catamarca,  and  of  the  Cordovese  chain, 
situated  to  the  south  and  west  of  the  Saladillo,  as  also 


244 

in  the  district  of  Guazayan.  It  is  of  a  sandy,  clayey 
nature,  and  saline  in  all  the  lower  borders  of  the  Salinas, 
and  generally  in  the  region  of  the  plains,  except  towards 
the  north,  where  the  salt  disappears. 

The  basin  of  the  Salinas  is  composed  of  a  gritty, 
sandy  clay,  covered  everywhere  by  efflorescent  salts. 
The  pools  which  are  formed  there  by  rain,  when  the 
water  evaporates,  leave  a  crust  of  salt  on  the  surface. 
Salt  is  also  found  on  the  borders  of  the  Saladillo  de- 
posited by  evaporation  of  its  waters. 

Between  the  two  rivers,  Salado  and  Dulce,  the  soil  is 
of  the  same  nature,  but  of  a  yellow  colour  and  very 
loose.  Fresh  water  is  found  at  a  depth  of  from  five 
to  twenty  metres.  In  all  this  region  there  is  a  thick 
stratum  of  vegetable  earth,  and  near  the  river  the  land 
is  entirely  composed  of  recent  alluvial.  Towards  the 
north-west  the  soil  is  firmer,  more  compact,  and  retains 
more  moisture,  gradually  mingling  with  the  fertile 
plains  of  Tucuman. 

The  saline  substances,  so  abundant  in  the  greater  part 
of  the  province  of  Santiago,  are  generally  chloride  of 
sodium  and  sulphate  of  soda  and  magnesia,  as  if  the 
earth  had  originally  been  covered  by  a  vast  deposit  of 
salt  water. 

Fossils  are  sometimes  found  in  this  province,  belong- 
ing in  the  major  part  to  the  tertiary  period.  The  re- 
mains of  the  mammiferi,  and  the  shells  found  in  the 
strata  of  the  banks  of  the  Salado  and  Dulce,  prove  the 
correctness  of  this  classification. 

The  climate  of  the  province  of  Santiago  del  Estero  is 
usually  dry.       Little  rain   falls,  except  during  the  hot 
season,   that  is  November  to  March;  nearly  all  the  re- 
mainder of  the  year  the  sky  is  clear  and  bright.     Frost 


245 

is  very  rare,  a  fact  that  renders  possible  the  cultivation 
of  tropical  plants.  The  summer  is  very  hot,  especially 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Salinas,  where  the  heat 
rises  to  42^  Cent,  This  district  is  subject  to  scorching 
winds,  but  of  short  duration;  the  north  wind  especially 
is  always  intensely  hot  and  humid,  blowing  sometimes 
for  24  hours.  The  mean  annual  temperature  of  the 
province  varies  from  20°  to  24°  Cent, 

This  climate  is  extremely  salubrious.  The  only 
malady  peculiar  to  the  province  is  ophtalmia,  but  less 
dangerous  than  that  of  Egypt.  As  in  Egypt,  this 
affection  is  evidently  owing  to  the  intensity  of  the  glare, 
and  especially  to  the  saline  dust  raised  there  by  winds ; 
this  disease  is  most  prevalent  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  Salinas. 

In  the  places  where  the  soil  is  dry  and  light,  such  as 
near  the  Sierras,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Salinas, 
and  in  the  plains  where  the  waters  of  the  Rio  Dulce 
become  briny,  the  vegetation  is  generally  meagre  and 
limited  to  a  thorny  species  of  the  mimosa.       But  near 
the  two  rivers,  and  in  the  long  tract  of  land  intersected 
by  them,  and  where  rain  moistens  the  soil,  all  the  arbo- 
rescent species,  such  as  the  algarrobos,  the  various  que- 
brachos, the  talas,  gayacs,  &c.,  attain  a  great  height,  and 
might  furnish  all    the   necessary  timber  for   building 
and  carpentry.       Notwithstanding  the  dryness  of  the 
climate,  and  the  scarcity  of  rain  during  one  part  of  the 
year,  the  forests  cover  at  least  two-thirds  of  the  pro- 
vince.    In  these  latter  a  cactus  grows  in  abundance, 
which   nourishes  a  cochineal  insect  of  good  quality.    In 
the  saline  plain  immense  quantities  of  "  jume  "  (lycium 
salsium),  are  found,  which,  as  before  stated,  is  eminently 
alkaline,  and  grows  to  a  metre  and  a  half  in  height. 


246 

There  is  good  grass  land  towards  the  south-east,  on 
the  frontier  of  Santa  Fe,  between  the  lagoon  Los  Porongos 
and  Rio  Salado.  Wheat  and  maize  are  cultivated  and 
yield  plentifully.  After  the  periodic  inundations  of  the 
Salado  and  Dulce,  which  cover  the  neighbouring  plains 
with  salt,  wheat  is  sown  which  then  yields  a  hundred- 
fold. If  irrigation  canals  were  made  from  the  Rio  Dulce 
a  soil  of  incredible  fertihty  might  be  produced.  The 
sugar  cane  is  cultivated  near  the  capital  and  succeeds 
well.  Arrow-root  is  also  planted  there  and  grows 
fairly.  Vegetables  are  extremely  rare,  simply  owing  to 
the  apathy  of  the  natives,  who  will  not  produce  them. 

As  to  fruit  trees,  the  province  produces  in  abundance 
the  peach,  orange,  fig,  vine,  and  pomegranate ;  all  others 
are  neglected,  although  the  country  is  suitable  for 
almost  every  species  of  European  fruit  and  a  large  num- 
ber of  those  of  the  tropics ;  but  the  inhabitants  are  con- 
tent with  their  natural  productions. 

The  cultivation  of  cereals  is  considerable  enough  to 
allow  of  a  small  export  trade  in  flour  to  be  carried  on 
with  the  provinces  of  Tucuman  and  Cordoba.  The 
produce  of  the  sugar  cane  suf&ces  only  for  the  consump- 
tion of  the  province.  Tobacco  is  not  cultivated, 
although  the  soil  is  most  appropriate ;  neither  is  the  cochi- 
neal plant  or  insect  utilized,  although  in  great  abun- 
dance. Tobacco  from  Tucuman  is  exclusively  consumed, 
and  the  inhabitants  content  themselves  by  gathering  in 
small  quantities  the  cochineal  insects,  which  are  dried 
and  made  up  into  thin  cakes  for  use  as  a  pigment  for 
dyeing  then'  rough  fabrics,  and  for  export  to  a  very 
small  extent  to  the  neighbouring  provinces. 

The  forests  of  Santiago  abound  with  wild  bees,  whose 
nests  are  found  in  the  crevices  of  the  trunks  of  elm 


247 

trees  and  even  in  the  ground  ;  they  produce  an  excel- 
lent honey,  known  as  miel  depalo^  or  wood  honey.  The 
inhabitants  eagerly  gather  this  natural  product,  and  even 
extend  their  explorations  for  it  to  the  forests  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  Rio  Salado  ;  some  mieleros  (honey- 
seekers),  whilst  so  engaged  in  the  Gran  Chaco,  have 
fallen  viccims  to  the  Indians.  The  honey  and  wax  col- 
lected by  these  people  constitute  an  article  of  commerce 
with  the  coast. 

The  province  exports  both  tanned  and  dry  raw  hides. 
Wool  is  of  sufficiently  good  quality  to  become  an 
article  of  export  to  some  extent  ;  the  advantages 
derived  from  this  trade  has  induced  the  owners  to  think 
of  improving  the  breed,  which  is  small,  and  whose  fleece 
is  not  weighty,  although  naturally  fine. 

Manufactures  in  the  province  are  few,  but  the  women 
are  extremely  dexterous  in  embroidery  ;  everywhere 
may  be  seen  embroidered  napkins,  petticoats,  and  cotton 
laces  remarkably  well  wrought.  These  pretty  articles 
are  sent  to  the  coast  and  lower  provinces,  where  they 
are  much  appreciated.  They  also  spin  and  weave  pon- 
chos and  coverlets,  dyed  with  the  richest  colours,  which 
the  semi-Indian  race,  constituting  the  mass  of  the  inhabi- 
tants, most  ingeniously  prepare  from  natural  local  sources. 

The  town  of  Santiago  del  Estero  is  the  centre  of 
commerce  for  the  province,  and  is  situated  on  the  great 
northern  route  to  Peru  and  Bolivia,  by  which  passes 
the  principal  traffic  for  Tucuman  and  Salta.  It  is  the 
only  road  much  frequented,  because  the  old  route  by  way 
of  Santa  Fe  and  the  Chaco  is  not  yet  re-opened. 

Large  ferry-boats  have  been  established  on  the  princi- 
pal passages  of  the  Rio  Dulce,  which  facilitate  the  transit, 
but  a  bridge  is  absolutely  needed  over  the  Saladillo. 


248 

The  communication  between  Santiago  and  the  western 
provinces  is  simply  by  bridle  paths  which  offer  no  other 
mconvenience  than  the  want  of  habitations  in  the 
travesias.  The  road  to  Catamarca  is  good  and 
open ;  that  of  Rioja  is  much  less  so  because  of  the  vast 
plain,  part  sandy  and  barren,  which  extends  to  the 
north  and  north-west  of  the  basin  of  the  Salinas.  The 
roads  through  the  district  intersected  by  the  two 
rivers  Dulce  and  Salado  are  perfectly  practicable  and 
well  peopled  with  estancias.  Nearly  all  the  roads  are 
practicable  for  carts  which  are  used  very  frequently. 
Some  troops  of  mules  are  employed  to  convey  produce 
and  merchandise,  but  carts  are  generally  preferred. 

The  mass  of  the  population  of  Santiago,  i.e.^  of  the 
working  classes,  is  Indian,  almost  pure,  but  now 
civilised  and  docile ;  they  still,  however,  retain  their 
own  language  (quichua),  are  intelligent,  industrious,  and 
hard-working,  and  rather  disposed  to  immigrate  to  the 
other  provinces,  where  labour  is  better  remunerated. 
It  is  thus  that  a  great  number  are  found  in  the  rural 
departments  of  the  province  of  Buenos  Ayres.  They 
make  good  soldiers  and  are  excellent  horsemen,  as  are 
Argentines  generally.  Their  food  is  more  vegetable 
than  animal,  consisting  of  the  fruit  of  the  algarrobo, 
— already  described  in  Catamarca — and  they  use  a  fer- 
mented drink  called  "  chicha  "  in  considerable  quanti- 
ties, which  is  much  appreciated  by  the  lower  classes. 

The  province  of  Santiago  del  Estero  is  divided  into  14 
departments,  viz.,  towards  the  centre,  the  Capital ;  near 
the  town  to  the  north,  the  Banda ;  north-Avest  upon  the  Rio 
Dulce,  Jimenez  and  Rio  Hondo;  to  the  west,  Guazayan, 
in  the  little  Sierra  of  this  name;  and  the  south-Avest, 
ChoUa ;  to  the  north  upon  the  Rio  Sallado,  Copo ;  to  the 


249 

east,  also  upon  the  Rio  Salado,  Matara  ;  to  the  south- 
east upon  the  Rio  Dulce,  Robles,  Silipica,  Loreto, 
Soconcho,  Salavina;  to  the  extreme  south  and  in  the 
Sierra  of  this  name,  Sumampa. 

The  department  of  the  Capital  is  composed  only  of 
the  town  and  its  outskirts.  Santiago  is  the  most  ancient 
town  in  the  interior  of  the  Argentine  Confederation, 
having  been  founded  in  1553  by  Aguirre,  one  of  the 
first  conquerors  and  colonisers  of  Tucuman,  and  has 
been  the  residence  of  the  first  bishop  of  the  province. 
It  is  situated  upon  the  right  bank  of  the  Rio  Dulce, 
on  alluvial  soil,  absolutely  flat.  About  half  a  league  to 
the  south  may  be  traced  the  old  banks  of  the  river. 
The  soil  about  the  town  is  very  fertile,  although  im- 
pregnated with  a  quantity  of  sulphate  of  soda;  this  salt 
is  injurious  to  the  buildings  in  attacking  and  gradually 
destroying  the  foundations  of  the  walls.  They  cultivate 
in  the  environs  the  sugar-cane,  and  wheat  and  maize,  and 
some  fruit  trees,  as  also  the  orange,  fig,  pomegranate, 
vine,  peaches,  and  some  dates ;  few  European  plants  are 
yet  imported.  Vegetation  is  vigorous,  principally  in 
those  places  subjected  to  irrigation,  which  is  not  difficult, 
owing  to  the  declivity  of  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Dulce 
The  altitude  of  Santiago  is  162  metres  above  the  level 
of  the  sea;  its  lat.  21^  47'  audits  long,  west  66^^  42'. 

This  town  possesses  no  very  remarkable  edifice.  The 
ancient  church,  erected  in  the  Plaza,  is  in  ruins,  and 
the  front  only  remains,  which  is  preserved  out  of  respect 
to  its  great  antiquity ;  it  is  of  fair  architecture.  The 
new  parish  church  is  small,  and  of  the  most  simple  form, 
but  of  solid  construction  and  in  good  order.  The  church 
of  the  present  college  of  Santo  Domingo  belonged  for- 
merly to  the  Jesuits ;  the  remains  of  their  library  is  de- 

?    G 


250 

posited  in  one  of  the  chambers  of  the  convent ;  their 
books  consist  principally  of  treatises  on  theology.  The 
convent  of  San  Francisco  has  been  rebuilt,  almost  en- 
tirely under  the  administration  of  Governor  Ibarra. 
Here  is  shown  a  wonderfully  preserved  relic, — the  cell 
formerly  occupied  by  San  Francisco  Solano,  apostle  of 
Tucuman  and  Paraguay.  It  contains  a  statue  of  the 
saint,  having  suspended  from  its  girdle  the  violin  by 
which  he  attracted  and  captivated  the  attention  of 
the  Indians.  The  church  possesses  a  pretty  organ, 
manufactured  in  the  place  by  a  Bolivian  artist,  assisted 
by  native  workmen.  The  convent  of  "  Beatorio"  is  a 
pious  establishment,  founded  about  21  years  ago  by 
Dona  Ana  Antonia  Toboada,  who  not  only  endowed  it 
with  part  of  her  fortune,  but  did  what  she  could  to  col- 
lect charities  from  the  neighbouring  provinces.  This 
convent  is  of  the  highest  importance  to  the  province,  as 
it .  is  the  only  establishment  for  the  education  of  girls, 
the  elementary  schools  of  the  department  being  gene- 
rally only  adapted  for  boys. 

Santiago  possesses  no  other  public  edifice.  The  Go- 
vernment offices  are  in  the  house  formerly  occupied  by 
the  Governor  Ibarra,  who  commanded  the  province  for 
nearly  thirty  years.  The  private  houses  are  plain,  com- 
modious, and  often  built  in  adobes,  or  sun-dried  bricks ; 
their  gardens  are  neglected,  but  the  town  nevertheless 
has  not  a  bad  appearance,  aided  by  the  arborescent 
veo-etation  which  encircles  it.  The  outskirts  are  well 
cultivated  and  support  a  dense  population. 

The  river,  upon  the  right  bank  of  which  Santiago  is 
built,  measures  100  metres  in  width,  is  clear,  and  only 
one  metre  deep  during  the  dry  season,  but  two  or  three 
during  the  floods.    It  flows  then  with  violence  and  con- 


251 

stantly  destroys  the  banks.  This  is,  however,  sought 
to  be  avoided  by  plantations  of  willows  and  poplars  in 
order  to  consolidate  them  and  to  restrain  the  water. 
This  is  very  necessary,  as  in  a  violent  flood  it  might 
leave  its  bed  and  cause  great  devastation  in  the  town 
itself. 

Santiago  is  now  progressing  somewhat  faster  than 
during  the  past  ten  years.  His  Excellency  Don  Antonio 
Toboada,  the  actual  Governor,  is  a  man  of  marked  talent, 
and  manifests  the  greatest  desire  to  benefit  his  native 
province  by  liberal  legislative  acts  and  the  introduction 
of  a  foreign  immigration.  He  offers  large  tracts  of  land 
to  be  settled  upon,  and  doubtless,  when  the  prolonga- 
tion of  the  Central  Argentine,  or  other  line,  reaches  this 
vast  territory,  most  valuable  tracts  of  now  desert  land 
will  be  eagerly  cultivated. 

From  the  lie  of  the  country  I  would  venture  to  prog- 
nosticate a  brilliant  success  in  agriculture  by  a  judicious 
system  of  irrigation.  There  is  abundance  of  water  in 
the  Rio  Dulce,  on  the  borders  of  Tucuman,  and  large 
canals  might  be  cut  with  comparative  facility  and  at  mo- 
derate cost,  following  the  natural  declivity  of  the  surface 
southwards.  If,  for  example,  the  track  of  the  Central 
Argentine  Railway  should  pass  in  a  straight  line  from 
Devisaderos  in  Cordoba  to  Tucuman,  instead  of  deviating 
westwards  to  the  Horqueta  in  Catamarca,  it  would  em- 
brace a  new  and  important  district  which  might  be  fer- 
tilized by  a  large  canal  from  the  head  waters  of  the  Dulce, 
cut  parallel  to  the  railway,  and  serving  the  double  pur- 
pose of  supplying  fresh  water  for  the  locomotives  as 
well  as  for  domestic  use  and  agriculture. 

This  is,  however,  a  problem  which  only  the  explora- 
tion and  survey  now  being  made  will  determine.      But 


252 

if  carried  out,  the  whole  of  that  vast  territory  might  be- 
come, within  the  next  twenty  years,  an  immense  indigo 
and  sugar  plantation.  We  find  at  the  present  moment 
a  very  large  extent  of  country  covered  with  the  indi- 
genous plant  (indigo/era  tinctoria)^  and  whose  crudely 
manufactured  indigo  is  of  excellent  quality. 

The  National  Government,  in  its  rapid  march  of  pro- 
gress, is  now  having  the  province  traversed  by  the  elec- 
tric wire,  and  within  a  few  months  instantaneous  com- 
munication with  the  capital  will  be  in  active  operation. 

One  of  the  most  striking  features  in  passing  through 
the  province  of  Santiago  is  the  almost  total  absence  of 
horned  cattle  along  the  line  of  road.  Although  there 
are  fair  pasture  lands  and  dense  forests  about,  it  is  evi- 
dent that  the  want  of  water  is  the  only  cause  which 
exists  to  prevent  the  rearing  and  breeding  of  cattle  in 
large  numbers ;  yet,  as  I  have  before  stated,  nearly  all 
the  water  of  two  fine  rivers  is  allowed  to  overflow  and 
waste  itself  in  shallow  saline  basins,  inutilizing  the  soil, 
and  making  the  transit  over  those  parts  extremely  diffi- 
cult and  dangerous. 

Population,  1869  :— City,  8,719 ;  country,  124,525; 
total,  133,244. 


253 


PROVINCE   OF  CORDOBA. 


GENERAL   PHYSICAL    ASPECT,   DESCRIPTION    OF    SOIL, 
CLIMATE,  &c. 

The  Province  of  Cordoba,  the  most  central  of  the  Ar- 
gentine Confederation,  is  situated  between  29°  40"  and 
34°  south  lat.,  and  64°  and  67°  30'  west  long.  (Paris). 
It  thus  embraces  an  area  of  about  6,000  square  leagues. 
Its  limits  to  the  north  and  south  are  nearly  the  two 
parallels  which  we  have  just  indicated;  that  of  the  north 
coincides  with  the  lagoons  of  Los  Porongos  and  the  bor- 
ders of  the  Salinas ;  that  of  the  south  with  the  great  pam- 
pas, abandoned  to  the  Indians,  which  extend  to  the 
other  side  of  the  Rio  Quinto.  To  the  west,  the  line  of 
Quebracho  Herrado,  of  Arroyo  de  las  Tortugas,  and  its 
prolongation  towards  the  south,  separates  it  from  Santa 
Fe.  To  the  east,  the  extremity  of  the  Salinas  forms  its 
limit  with  the  provinces  of  La  Rioja  and  San  Juan ;  the 
little  Sierra  de  la  Lomita,  the  Rio  de  la  Cruz,  and  the 
Sierra  de  la  Estanzuela  separate  it  from  San  Luis. 

The  general  aspect  of  this  province  is  that  of  a  vast 
plain,  of  which  the  declivity  inclines  from  west  to  east, 
towards  the  Rio  Parand,  and  in  the  midst  of  which  rises 
a  high  granitic  mountain  chain,  perfectly  isolated.  This 
i^ile  of  mountains  is  very  abrupt  towards  the  west ;  it  is 


254 

less  rugged  and  more  undulating  towards  the  east  and 
south.  Upon  these  two  points  the  declivity  terminates 
in  rich  fertile  pampas,  which  resemble  those  of  Santa  Fe, 
Buenos  Ayres,  and  the  Indian  territory  towards  the 
south.  On  the  summit  of  this  range  is  a  plateau,  at  an 
elevation  of  2,000  metres  above  the  sea,  suitable  only  for 
cattle.  At  1,000  metres  is  another  plateau,  where  the 
soil  and  climate  are  suitable  for  cultivation.  The  nume- 
rous valleys,  opening  at  various  points,  are  clothed  with  a 
rich  vegetation.  From  these  heights  descend  numerous 
streams  and  rivers,  utilized  in  cultivation  on  the  plains, 
and  of  these  the  principal  unite  in  forming  the  four 
chief  rivers  of  the  province. 

The  Rio  Tercero,  the  principal  river  of  the  province, 
rises  from  the  south-western  summit  of  the  ridge,  and 
flows  through  nearly  the  entire  province,  watering 
Villa  Nueva,  Frayle  Muerto  (Belville),  and  eventually 
falling  into  the  Parana  ten  leagues  above  Rosario.  The 
other  rivers  are  designated  as  follows,  commencing  at 
the  north : — 

The  Rio  Primero  is  formed  by  the  union  of  the  several 
rivulets  watering  the  valleys  of  the  range  to  W.N.W.  of 
Cordoba ;  it  descends  as  a  rapid  stream  into  the  plain,  and 
flows  into  the  little  valley,  or  narrow  hollow,  where  is 
situated  the  capital  of  the  province.  No  part  is  navi- 
gable, but  its  waters  are  most  valuable  for  irrigation, 
which  fertihses  the  suburbs  and  surrounding  country. 
The  Rio  Primero  flows  through  the  valley  of  Cordoba, 
takes  an  E.N.E.  direction,  and  is  lost  in  the  pampas 
not  far  from  Mar  Chiquita,  where  its  waters  arrive  by 
a  series  of  shallow  marshes.  Inundations,  arising  from 
the  swelling  of  its  waters  during  the  rainy  seasons,  are 
sometimes  dangerous  to  the  town  of  Cordoba. 


255 

The  Rio  Segundo  is  not  so  important  as  the  preceding ; 
it  is  formed  of  two  principal  branches, — the  one  Rio  de 
Sansacate  and  the  other  Segundo  proper ;  these  unite 
in  debouching  from  the  mountain  range.  The  Segundo 
thus  forms  a  river  of  moderate  depth,  about  100  metres 
broad,  and  is  navigable  in  certain  parts.  When  freshets 
come  down  its  course  is  parallel  to  that  of  Rio  Primero, 
from  which  it  is  separated  by  a  distance  of  nine  leagues, 
and,  flowing  in  the  same  direction,  like  it,  teminates 
in  shallow  marshes  at  a  short  distance  from  Mar  Chiquita, 
but  with  which,  however,  it  is  sometimes  connected. 
These  two  rivers  are  quite  analogous  in  their  form  and 
the  direction  of  their  waters. 

The  Rio  Cuarto  flows  towards  the  south-east,  and  is 
formed,  like  the  Tercero,  in  the  high  valleys  of  the  Cum- 
bres  de  Lutis,  which  is  the  most  southern  plateau  of  the 
range.  Large  and  rapid,  but  of  little  depth,  it  arrives 
at  the  rising  town  of  Concepcion  del  Rio  Cuarto, 
the  second  in  importance  in  the  province  of  Cordoba ; 
then,  reaching  the  middle  of  the  pampas,  south,  its 
watci's  rre  lost  in  shallow  pools,  where  it  becomes 
brackish,  and,  reuniting,  under  the  name  of  Rio  Sala- 
dillo,  they  flow  into  the  Rio  Tercero,  near  the  village 
of  this  name.  This  river,  without  being  navigable, 
has  a  volume  of  water  sufficiently  strong  for  the  pur- 
pose of  irrigating  a  large  tract  of  country. 

All  the  other  watercourses  of  the  province  of  Cordoba 
are  only  rivulets  from  the  mountains,  whose  waters  are 
utilized  entirely  for  irrigation,  and  which  only  reach  a 
short  distance  into  the  plain.  Those  which  flow  east- 
ward in  part  fall  into  the  rivers  we  have  just  mentioned, 
and  those  on  the  west  of  the  range,  such  as  Rios  de  los 
Sauces,  Soto,  Pichama,  Del  Eje,  &c.,  &c.,  are  lost  in  the 


256 

neighbourhood  of  the  Salinas.  The  number  of  these 
watercourses  is  unfortunately  very  limited,  but  without 
them  there  would  be  no  absolute  security  for  agriculture, 
because  of  the  dryness  of  the  soil  and  seasons  in  this 
region. 

The  north-east  of  the  province  of  Cordoba  presents  a 
very  remarkable  system  of  waters  but  little  known  until 
the  present  time.  The  group  of  lagoons  in  which  the 
Rio  Dulce  is  lost  is  designated  Los  Porongos,  and  there 
is  another  very  large  lagoon,  called  Mar  Chiquita,  or  little 
sea. 

The  southern  shore  of  this  latter  was  explored  in  1861, 
by  the  ingenuity  of  Laberge,  who  followed  the  traces'  of 
the  Rio  Primero  and  the  Rio  Segundo,  which  discharge 
their  surplus  waters  into  it.  It  is  thought  by  the  inhabi- 
tants that  Mar  Chiquita  forms  an  immense  lagoon,  of 
which  the  greatest  extent  is  from  west  to  east,  and  that 
it  unites  with  those  of  Los  Porongos  by  another  inter 
mediate  lagoon,  called  Del  Soldado,  and  by  shallow 
canals,  sometimes  dry  and  sometimes  filled  with  water. 

What  renders  it  difiicult  to  gain  a  knowledge  of  these 
shallows  is  that  the  waters  are  sometimes  saline  and 
sometimes  not  so ;  the  muddy  borders  render  walking 
extremely  difficult,  owing  to  the  acquatic  plants  of  every 
species  which  grow  about  and  form  a  sort  of  moving 
morass.  All  the  country  comprised  between  lat.  30° 
and  31°  and  long.  64°  and  65°  forms  a  vast  basin,  into 
which  the  rain  water  falls,  and  whence  there  is  no  issue 
except  by  evaporation.  The  Mar  Chiquita  has  fewer 
islands  than  Los  Porongos,  its  borders  are  absolutely 
smooth,  and  the  waters  advance  or  recede  according 
to  the  winds,  sometimes  revealing  uncovered  a  long 
slimy  beach  where  salt  is  found  and  collected.     There 


257 

are  some  dwellings  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  lake, 
and  in  some  places  sweet  water  is  found  by  digging  wells, 
while  in  others  the  earth  consists  of  layers  of  saline 
sandy  clay.  The  district  is  wooded,  but  almost  en- 
tirely with  the  thorny  mimosa.  It  is  in  this  basin  that 
the  Rio  Dulce  is  lost,  and  the  swellings  of  this  river  have 
a  great  influence  upon  the  height  of  the  waters  in  the 
lake,  which  are  highest  in  January  (summer)  and 
lowest  in  winter.  The  northern  borders  are  slightly 
elevated,  but  to  the  south  and  south-east  the}' are  every- 
where low  and  marshy,  nearly  all  the  neighbouring 
region  being  excessively  flat ;  from  the  nature  of  the 
land  the  waters  do  not  reach  any  considerable  distance. 
The  soil  of  the  eastern  plain  of  Cordoba  is  similar  to  that 
of  the  provinces  of  Santa  Fe  and  Buenos  Ayres,  namely, 
a  rich  vegetable  earth,  more  or  less  thick,  and  forming 
a  superstratum  of  black  clay,  saline  in  some  places,  but 
producing  beautiful  pastures.  These  plains  have  re- 
ceived the  name  of  the  "  Pampa."  There  are  trees  only 
as  we  approach  the  mountain  range,  and  the  wood  is 
poor  and  thorny,  being  composed  principally  of  chanar, 
espinillo,  or  algarrobo,  all  belonging  to  the  mimosa 
species.  These  woods  increase  in  extent  towards  the 
Mar  Chiquita,  and  mingle  with  those  of  Santa  F^. 
Towards  the  south  the  eye  wanders  over  an  immense 
grassy  plain,  slightly  undulating.  In  the  region  of  the 
mountains  the  soil  is  generally  granitic,  but  there  are 
plateaux  and  valleys  where  the  earth  is  suitable  for  the 
production  of  every  agricultural  species.  In  the  plain, 
which  commences  in  a  westerly  direction,  it  is  clayey  and 
a  little  saline,  being,  however,  very  light  and  fertile  by 
the  aid  of  irrigation.  All  the  valleys  which  are  open  to 
this  side  are  wooded  with  trees  of  good  height,  and  those 


258 

species  which  on  the  eastern  side  are  poor  and  stunted, 
such  as  the  chanar,  algarrobo,  and  talas,  attain  in  this 
region  their  full  development.  The  most  elevated  pla- 
teaux of  the  range  are  those  which  constitute  its  summit, 
and,  where  the  rock  is  not  absolutely  bare,  produce  a 
short  thick  turf  on  which  sheep  thrive  well. 

The  climate  on  the  plain  of  Cordoba  is  similar  to  that 
of  Santa  Fe  and  Entre  Rios,  but  the  winter  is  always 
drier  and  more  healthy  than  at  Buenos  Ayres.  On 
approaching  the  mountains  rains  are  rare  in  winter,  but 
from  October  to  March  (spring  and  summer)  they  are 
abundant ;  hence  the  necessity  of  irrigation  for  the  pur- 
poses of  agriculture.  The  temperature  is  regulated  ac- 
cording to  the  altitude  of  the  place;  its  lowest  is  16° 
Cent,  in  the  capital,  which  is  400  metres  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  It  sometimes  freezes,  with  snow,  although 
rarely.  In  the  mountain  districts  it  freezes  more  in- 
tensely, but  the  frosts  are  of  short  duration,  and  the 
snow  lies  only  on  the  top  of  the  mountains,  as  the 
heavens  are  nearly  always  radiant  with  the  sun.  The 
temperature  of  all  the  plateaux,  whose  altitude  is  not 
greater  than  1,200  metres,  is  generally  mild,  as  is  e^^.- 
dent  from  the  palm  tree  flourishing  at  this  altitude. 
The  western  districts  are  much  warmer,  because  of  their 
proximity  to  the  Salinas  of  the  Llanos.  The  prevailing 
winds  are  south  and  north ;  in  summer  the  rains  are 
almost  always  accompanied  by  thunderstorms. 

The  salubrity  of  this  climate  is  perfect,  and  the  public 
health  excellent.  Indeed  m  no  part  of  the  Republic  is 
the  climate  more  suitable  to  invalids  than  at  Cordoba. 
For  affections  of  the  chest  especially  it  is  not  to  be  sur- 
passed perhaps  in  the  world,  and  doubtless,  when  com- 
munication   with  Europe  becomes   more  general  and 


259 

less  expensive,  it  will  be  resorted  to  by  many,  hitherto 
frequenters  of  Madeira  and  other  places,  not  now  so 
efficatious  as  was  formerly  supposed. 

The  altitude  of  some  parts  and  general  vast  extent  of 
the  province,  and  nature  of  the  soil,  necessarily  varies 
vegetation  considerably.  The  plain  produces  only 
a  species  of  long  prairie  grass,  whilst,  in  the  mountain 
districts,  we  find  trees  and  shrubs,  with  good  soft  grass, 
covering  a  vast  extent  of  country.  In  the  plains, 
near  Mar  Chiquita,  and  in  general  all  those  north 
of  32°  parallel,  there  are  fine  stretches  of  park  land  and 
true  forests.  These  are  composed  principally  of  algar- 
robos,  iiandubays,  talas,  quebrachos  (red  and  white), 
chanar,  &c.,  and m  the  mountains,  brea,jarilla,talaquillo, 
palm,  &c.  The  arborescent  plants  are  principally  of  the 
family  of  mimosa,  and  usually  thorny.  These  woods 
suffice  only  for  local  consumption. 

Agriculture  in  Cordoba  is  limited  to  the  production 
of  wheat  and  maize  necessary  for  the  population,  the 
most  common  vegetables,  and  fodder,  more  especially 
lucerne.  Arborculture  is  neglected,  although  the 
soil  and  climate  are  suitable  for  almost  all  fruit  trees. 
The  vine,  for  which  the  soil  is  admirably  adapted,  is  not 
cultivated.  The  apple  tree  is  the  only  one  cultivated 
in  sufficient  quantities,  and  might  produce  excellent 
cider  if  the  people  would  only  dedicate  themselves  to  it. 
The  variety  of  the  soil,  temperature,  and  situation  of 
the  province  of  Cordoba  is  admirably  suited  for  all 
European  plants  and  trees,  as  well  as  a  large  number  of 
those  of  the  tropics. 

The  scarcity  of  rain  during  one  part  of  the  year 
(winter)  renders  irrigation  indispensable  for  agriculture 
in  most  southern  parts  of  the  province ;  for  this  purpose 


260 

the  rivulets  are  utilized,  but  the  rivers  Primero,  Segundo, 
Tercero,  and  Cuarto  would  furnish  water  for  very  large 
tracts  of  land  towards  the  east,  as  well  as  those  of  the 
mountainous  district,  and  for  the  plains  towards  the 
pampas.  Little  attention  is,  however,  paid  to  this  im- 
portant question,  which  later  on  must  be  successfully 
worked  out,  and  will  undoubtedly  be  a  source  of  great 
wealth  to  those  who  initiate  it. 

The  principal  commerce  is  in  the  exportation  of  cattle 
to  the  Andine  provinces  for  Chili,  to  Buenos  Ayres,  and 
to  Santa  Fe,  for  the  slaughter  house,  together  with  the 
hides  of  those  slaughtered  for  local  consumption  in  the 
province.  There  is  a  large  trade  in  live  cattle  for  the 
numerous  carts  in  the  transport  service  from  Tucuman 
to  the  Parand.  Mules  are  sent  in  large  numbers  to  the 
neighbouring  provinces  and  to  Bolivia.  Wool  was  also 
a  lucrative  source  of  exportation,  principally  to  and 
from  the  towns  of  Villa  Nueva  and  Frayle  Muerto  (now 
Belville).    Goat  skins  are  also  exported  in  large  numbers. 

A  little  wheat  only  is  sent  to  the  coast ;  the  remainder 
is  consumed  in  the  province,  while,  from  the  neglected 
culture  of  the  vine,  they  are  obliged  to  buy  the  wines 
of  Rioja  and  San  Juan,  as  well  as  the  dry  figs  of  Cata- 
marca. 

There  is,  however,  some  little  animation  in  manufac- 
tures. Hides  are  tanned  and  imitation  morocco 
leather  produced,  whilst  boots  and  shoes  for  the  adjacent 
provinces  are  made  in  fair  quantities.  They  also  manu- 
facture coarse  woollen  fabrics  of  excellent  quality,  such 
as  "jergas,"  or  rough  blankets  and  coverlets  for  beds,  in 
brilliant  colours  and  pretty  patterns,  which  are  very 
durable. 

Its  central  position  in  the  continent  of  South  America 


261 

must  always  make  Cordoba  the  centre  of  extensive 
commercial  transit,  and  its  capital  must  necessarily  be- 
come the  entrepot  for  all  the  interior.  The  facilities 
of  communication  with  the  coast  now  established  by 
railway  and  steamboat  contribute  greatly  to  its  growing 
activity  and  importance,  and  it  is  fast  becoming  the 
favourite  resort  for  Bolivian  merchants,  who  prefer  having 
their  merchandize  by  way  of  Cordoba,  to  crossing  the 
Andes  and  purchasing  in  Peru  or  the  western  ports  of 
the  Pacific. 

Notwithstanding  the  height  of  the  mountain  range 
which  occupies  the  central  part  of  the  province,  the 
communication  is  everywhere  easy.  The  first  and 
most  important  route  is  that  of  the  ancient  road  from 
the  capital  to  Rosario,  about  113  leagues,  which  is  now  of 
course  obsolete,  the  railway  being  completed.  That 
to  Santa  Fe,  although  well  traced,  is  not  much  fre- 
quented. The  one  from  Cordoba  to  Santiago  and  Tu- 
cuman,  to  the  north,  is  the  ancient  highroad  to  Peru 
and  Bolivia,  and  is  tolerably  good  and  level.  The  other 
road ,  to  the  south,  unites  with  that  of  Rosario  to  Men- 
doza  at  the  town  of  Rio  Cuarto.  Communication  with 
Rioja  and  Catamarca  are  made  almost  uniform  by 
carriage  ways,  rounding  the  northern  point  of  the  Sierra, 
and  crossing  the  great  Salinas  to  Horqueta  and  Don 
Diego.  The  mountain  range,  in  its  central  part,  is 
cut  by  the  direct  route  to  San  Juan  and  Rioja,  and  is 
now  an  excellent  cart  road,  with  post-houses  and  reser- 
voirs for  water.  Diligences  are  now  established  upon 
all  these  roads  once  a  week  for  Tucuman,  Rioja,  Cata- 
marca, Rio  Cuarto,  Mendoza,  and  San  Juan,  which  are 
sufficient  for  the  present  intercourse,  and  can  be  increased 
whenever  the  exigencies  of  trade  require  it      The  least 


262 

frequented  of  these  roads  is  that  of  Santa  Fe,  all  busi- 
ness being  centred  in  Rosario.  Of  course  the  most  im- 
portant of  all  means  of  transit  is  the  Central  Argentine 
Railway,  now  opened  from  Kosario  to  Cordoba,  247  miles. 

The  province  is  divided  into  fourteen  departments. 
The  sections  comprised  in  the  mountain  district  are : — 
Tulumba,  Rio  Seco,  Ischilin,  the  Pumilla  (distinguished 
as  Cruz  del  Eje),  Pocho,  San  Javier,  and  Rio  Cuarto. 

The  sections  comprised  in  the  plain  are  : — The  Capital, 
Anejos  (distinguished  as  Riode  Zeballos),  Calamuchita, 
Rio  Tercero  Arriba,  Rio  Tercero  Abajo,  Rio  Segundo, 
and  Santa  Rosa. 

There  are  few  large  towns  in  the  province.  After 
the  capital  there  are  only  Santa  Rosa,  Rio  Cuarto,  Villa 
Nueva,  Frayle  Muerto,  Rosario  de  los  Ranchos,  Tulumba, 
Rio  Seco,  San  Francisco  del  Chanar,  and  San  Pedro  de 
los  Sauces.  All  the  others  are  villages,  or  rather  ham- 
lets, with  a  few  houses  grouped  around  the  church. 
The  numerous  estates  or  farms  are  scattered  about  the 
environs  or  on  the  approaches  to  the  towns  and  valleys. 
Wherever  there  is  a  stream  of  water  suitable  for  irriga- 
tion small  farms  stud  its  banks.  The  great  estancias 
of  the  plain  are  generally  near  a  lagoon,  or  an  artificial 
reservoir,  where  their  animals  can  allay  their  thirst. 

The  department  of  the  capital  is  limited  to  the  town  of 
Cordoba,  with  its  precincts,  and  is  surrounded  entirely 
by  that  of  Los  Anejos,  which  extends  from  Santo  Do- 
mingo to  Alta  Gracia,  along  the  mountains,  sixteen 
leagues  north  to  south,  and  ten  broad. 

The  town  of  Cordoba,  founded  in  1573,  was  the 
ancient  capital  of  Tucuman  during  the  Spanish  dominion. 
It  is  situated  about  four  leagues  from  the  mountains,  at 
an  altitude  of  1,200  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  in  Sl'^ 


25*  south^titude.     It  is  built  in  a  valley,  on  low  ground, 
originally  formed  by  deposits  during  floods,  and  on  the 
borders  of  the  Rio  Primero.    The  banks,  whose  summits 
form  the  level  of  the  pampas,  surrounding  the  town,  are 
very  steep,  and  measure  about  60  feet  in  height.     Now 
the  Rio  Primero  flows  altogether  on  the  north  side, 
where  its  banks  are  perpendicular,  whilst  those  on  the 
south  side  form  a  gentle  declivity.      This  conformation 
of  the  soil  places  Cordoba  in  a  sort  of  sandy  hollow,  and 
subjects  it  to  inundations,  not  only  from  the  river,  but 
from  torrents,  for  the  most  part  of  the  year  dry,  but 
which  increase  considerably  in  the  rainy  season,  and  are 
only  restrained  in  their  force  by  a  solid  stone  wall,  first 
constructed  in  1671  under  the  government  of  Peredo. 
On  31st  January,   1863,  an  enormous  body  of  water, 
similar  to  that  of  1st  May,  1823,  half  a  century  before, 
threatened    the  existence  of  the  town,   and  produced 
great  devastation,  but  by  various  improvements  in  the 
breakwater  these  disasters  are  no  longer  feared. 

Cordoba  is  well  built,  and  contains  several  substantial 
edifices,  among  them  the  Cabildo,  constructed  at  the 
commencement  of  this  century  by  the  Marquis  of  Sobre- 
monte;  the  cathedral,  finished  in  the  17th  century;  and 
eight  other  churches,  besides  convents.  The  streets, 
marking  the  four  cardinal  points,  are  at  right  angles,  and 
each  block  or  manzana  contains  four  acres.  The  cuadra 
(front  of  each  block)  is  150  Spanish  varas  long,  and  the 
houses  are  consequently  on  a  grand  scale.  The  streets 
are  not  paved  (with  one  exception),  which  is,  however, 
not  of  much  consequence,  as  the  decomposed  granitic 
sand,  which  forms  the  surface,  makes  good  roads,  and 
each  street  is  furnished  with  footways  flagged  with 
granite  or  marble. 


264 

The  most  ornamental  buildings  are  the  Cabildo,  or 
Hotel  de  Ville,  in  which  are  the  Government  Offices,  and 
the  cathedral,  a  noble  edifice,  well  constructed,  of  a 
composite  architecture,  and  the  dome  of  which  is  most 
effective.  The  interior  is  ornamented  with  pilasters,  in 
part  overlaid  with  beautiful  marble  from  the  neighbour- 
ing mountains;  the  altars  and  walls  are  adorned  by 
some  choice  pictures.  After  the  cathedral  of  Buenos 
Ayres,  that  of  Cordoba,  with  the  Matriz  of  Tucuman 
and  the  church  of  Uruguay,  are  the  finest  edifices  in 
the  Argentine  Confederation. 

To  the  Marquis  of  Sobremonte,  one  of  the  Spanish 
Viceroys  or  Governors,  Cordoba  is  indebted  for  a  very 
picturesque  promenade.  This  is  situated  about  600 
yards  from  the  principal  Plaza  or  square,  and  consists 
of  a  grand  quadrangular  basin  of  water,  measuring 
100  metres  each  side,  planted  all  round  with  double 
rows  of  poplars  and  willows,  and  enclosed  with  iron 
railings.  There  is  a  wide  promenade  between  the  ave- 
nues of  trees,  and  rustic  sofas  are  placed  around  at 
convenient  distances.  With  the  lateral  streets  this 
promenade  occupies  nearly  six  acres,  and  communicates 
on  the  south  with  the  centre,  of  the  town  by  a  long 
avenue ;  on  the  west,  it  is  surrounded  by  lovely  quintas^ 
or  country  houses,  with  fruit  gardens,  forming  a  large 
district,  divided  into  squares  like  the  town,  and  well 
planted  with  trees  along  the  streets,  which  makes  it 
most  pleasing  during  the  sweltering  heat  of  summer. 
These  gardens  are  irrigated  by  small  canals  from  the 
Rio  Primero,  and  are  of  surpassing  fertility.  Here  all 
the  principal  townsfolk  live  during  summer,  and  pass  a 
most  agreeable  existence  amongst  delicious  fruit  trees 
and  cool  rippling  streams  of  limpid  water. 


265 

After  the  cathedral  may  be  mentioned  the  churches 
of  the  convents  of  La  Merced,  San  Francisco,  Santa 
Catalina,  and  Santa  Teresa,  which  are  all  of  modern 
construction,  and  in  the  best  condition,  owing  to  the 
superb  marbles  which  the  native  mountains  furnish  in 
abundance.  It  would  be  easy  and  inexpensive  to  utilize 
this  fine  material  for  the  formation  of  public  edifices 
and  private  houses,  but  Cordoba  has  hitherto  not  been 
fortunate  enough  to  possess  artisans  who  could  work  it 
to  advantage. 

The  church  of  the  University,  formerly  that  of  the 
Jesuits,  and  built  by  them  in  1671,  is  grand  and  beauti- 
ful in  the  interior,  although  now  entirely  neglected. 
Over  the  high  altar  is  a  fine  old  painting  of  the  cruci- 
fixion, said  to  be  from  the  brush  of  Peter  Paul  Reubens, 
and  presented  by  him  to  the  Jesuits.  It  is  a  magnifi- 
cent building,  and  formerly  the  college  of  Saint  Charles 
was  attached  to  it.  The  whole  of  this  edifice  has  now 
become  .the  property  of  the  National  Government,  and 
the  University  and  Preparatory  Colleges  are  established 
here.  The  buildmgs  sadly  required  restoration,  and  are 
being  gradually  attended  to  by  the  Government  authori- 
ties. 

There  is  also  in  the  town  an  hospital  with  sixty  beds, 
which  is  sufiicient  for  the  wants  of  the  population.  It 
is  annexed  to  the  church  of  San  Roque,  and  is  supported 
by  the  public  revenue  and  voluntary  contributions.  It  is 
under  the  direction  of  the  Sisters  of  Charity,  who  came 
from  France  some  years  ago.  The  three  monasteries 
contain  a  good  number  of  friars,  but  the  Jesuits  have 
been  expelled  for  many  years  past.  The  two  nunneries 
are  limited, — that  of  the  Catalinas  to  40,  that  of  Teresas  to 
24  inmates,  and  vacancies  are  filled  from  the  postulants, 

2  I 


266 

who  have  to  pay  a  dower  of  2,000  hard  dollars.  These 
convents  are  well  maintained,  and  have  sufficient  property 
to  support  them  and  for  charitable  purposes. 

The  Bishopric  of  Cordoba — first  created  in  1699 — 
has  recently  been  re-established.  The  Chapter  is  com- 
plete. 

Cordoba  at  one  time  possessed  a  mint,  which  coined 
only  silver  of  "750  milesimos  fine,  but  it  is  no  longer 
allowed  to  work ;  the  National  Government  only  having 
the  right  to  coin.  The  metal  coined  was  the  produce 
of  the  mines  in  the  department  of  Pochi.  There  are 
two  s.team  mills,  and  several  harracas  or  large  deposits 
for  country  produce,  for  which  this  place  is  a  great 
entrepot.     ' 

The  press  is  fairly  represented  in  Cordoba,  and  three 
daily  newspapers,  very  creditably  edited,  retail  the  cur- 
rent events.  The  most  important  is  the  Eco  de  Cor- 
doba, edited  by  Dr.  Luis  Velez,  a  clever  young  lawyer, 
who  was  formerly  Minister  of  the  province,  and  who  is 
now  Deputy  to  the  National  Congress.  He  is  assisted 
by  his  brother,  Don  Ignacio  Velez,  and  his  cousin,  Don 
Adolfo  Mansilla,  who  share  the  editorial  labours.  The 
principles  of  this  journal  are  Liberal,  and  it  supports 
warmly  the  present  national  administration. 

The  next  in  importance  is  the  Progreso^  edited  by 
Dr.  Ramon  Gil-Navarro,  and  represents  the  Conserva- 
tive or  Federal  interests. 

The  third  is  an  insignificant  journal, -E7  Constitucional^ 
merely  published  for  political  ends,  and  supported  more 
by  private  individuals  than  the  public ;  its  principles  are 
Radical,  and  the  editors  are  many — amongst  them  Dr. 
Nicolas  Pefialoza. 

In  the   neighbourhood  of  the  capital  is  an   ancient 


267 

Indian  village  called  "  El  Pueblito,"  now  consisting 
only  of  a  few  half-breeds.  This  is  the  last  remnant  of 
the  aborigines  of  the  valley.  They  do  little  in  agricul- 
ture, and  only  breed  a  few  goats  and  cows.  Their  ap- 
pearance and  habits  are  disgusting,  and  they  form  the 
worst  element  of  disorder  in  times  of  political  excite- 
ment. 

The  impulse  which  the  completion  of  the  Central 
Argentine  Railway  has  given  to  commerce  and  agricul- 
ture in  the  province  of  Cordoba  is  almost  incredible,  and 
the  enormous  increase  in  the  value  of  land  and  house 
property  there  is  such  as  is  only  experienced  in  the  new 
countries  of  the  western  world. 

The  numerous  agricultural  colonies  springing  up 
along  the  line  of  railway  testify  to  the  advantages  de- 
rived by  increasing  the  facilities  of  communication  and 
intercourse  with  the  coast  and  capital  of  the  Republic. 
At  Belville,  and  other  places  on  the  track,  may  now  be 
seen  in  active  operation  the  steam  plough,  with  all  the 
most  advanced  and  modern  agricultural  machinery, 
which,  in  a  country  like  this — sparse  of  labourers  or 
other  population — is  almost  a  sine  qua  non  for  success 
Land,  which  was  purchased  there  six  years  ago  for  £150 
a  square  league  (6,768  acres),  is  now  worth  from  £300 
to  £500,  and  in  the  course  of  six  years  more  will  doubt- 
less be  worth  double  or  treble  this  sum.  The  new 
Land  Company,  formed  in  London  to  colonize  900,000 


acres  of  the  Central  Argentine  Railway  lands,  will  give 
such  a  stimulus  to  those  districts  that  withm  ten  years 
from  this  time  the  province  will  be  so  transforiped  as  to 
be  unrecognizable  to  the  most  familiar  denizen  of  the 
country. 

Those  lands  will  undoubtedly  fetch  an  average  of  £l 


268 


per  acre,  and  the  amount  of  produce  which  must  natu- 
rally follow  their  development  will  in  itself  form  an  im- 
portant source  of  revenue  for  the  railway. 

To  populate  the  lands,  as  contemplated  by  the  new 
company,  will  require  about  9,000  families,  which  may 
be  taken  at  an  average  of  four  to  each,  resulting  in 
36,000  producers.  These,  as  they  go  on  prospering, 
will  assuredly  induce  their  relatives  and  connections  in 
Europe  to  join  them,  and  when  all  the  company's  lands 
—six  miles  in  breadth — shall  have  been  occupied,  the 
adjoining  ones  on  each  side  of  the  track  must  begin 
gradually  to  be  peopled ;  hence,  once  a  certain  nucleus 
of  population  shall  have  been  formed  along  a  tract  of 
country  six  miles  wide  by  250  in  length,  it  is  easy  to 
predicate  the  lasting  success  and  profitable  future  of 
this  great  national  undertaking. 

/  Another  great  source  of  prosperity  will  be  the  grow- 
/  ing  of  flax  and  utilizing  of  its  products  m  the  manufac- 
ture of  linens,  an  article  of  great  consumption  all  over 
South  America.  Already  a  sturdy  and  intelligent  pio- 
neer in  this  branch  of  industry  has  struck  the  first  blow, 
and  planted  the  germ  of  success  on  the  pampa.  To  Mr. 
Henly  is  due  the  merit  of  initiating  this  most  valuable 
culture  in  the  Argentine  Republic,  and  his  efforts  deserve 
well  of  the  country,  its  Government  and  its  people.  He 
has  taken  out  with  him  to  Belville  a  large  number  of 
young  men,  selected  from  the  ranks  of  the  most  respec- 
table agricultural  classes  in  England,  and,  with  such  a 
basis  as  a  beginning,  no  fears  need  be  entertained  of  his 
ultimate  success. 

His  experiments  in  the  River  Plate  territories  have 
been  already  most  successful  in  this  dii'ection,  and  the 
flax  produced  on  virgin  soil,  without  manure  and  with 


269 

very  ordinary  care  and  tillage,  has  turned  out  superior 
to  almost  any  yet  produced  by  the  best  systems  of  cul- 
ture in  Europe.  Its  fibre  is  long  and  tough,  and  manu- 
facturers will  doubtless  ere  long  eagerly  seek  to  pur- 
chase it  in  preference  to  the  European  staple. 

The  produce  in  cereals  this  year  (1870),  as  I  have 
been  credibly  informed,  will,  in  the  province  of  Cordoba 
alone,  be  more  than  sufficient  for  the  consumption  of 
the  riverine  provinces,  which  have  hitherto  drawn  their 
supplies  from  Chili  and  the  Andine  districts,  of  course 
at  high  prices  from  the  distance  and  freights.  This  is 
a  most  encouraging  feature  in  a  young  country  and  for 
a  new  agricultural  district.  In  short,  when  I  look  back 
at  the  state  of  the  country  even  five  years  ago,  and  com- 
pare it  with  its  present  condition,  I  am  so  astonished 
with  its  progress  that  only  positive  data  and  figures  can 
convince  me  of  its  reality.  But  when  I  consider  what 
the  next  ten  years,  with  peace  and  tranquillity,  and  with 
constitutional  and  enlightened  Governments,  may  do,  I 
am  confounded,  and  really  afraid  to  express  my  honest 
conviction  as  to  the  enormous  strides  in  progress,  wealth, 
and  civilization  which  the  Argentine  Republic  is  des- 
tined most  assuredly  to  make. 

The  town  of  Rio  Cuarto,  owing  to  the  extension  of 
the  railway  from  Villa  Maria,  will  soon  assume  a  degree 
of  importance  hitherto  denied  it.  This  line  has  just  been 
contracted  for  by  a  London  firm,  and  will  be  completed 
in  1873.  The  distance  from  Villa  Maria  to  Rio  Cuarto 
is  only  82  miles.  But  this  branch  will  secure  to  the 
trunk  line  of  railway  all  the  western  traffic  which 
hitherto  passed  on  carts  to  Rosario  direct ;  as  the  owners 
of  produce  very  justly  observe  that,  after  passing  some 
20  or  25  days  with  their  carts  across  the  pampa,  it  is 


270 

not  worth  their  while  to  transfer  their  goods  to  the 
train  at  Villa  Maria,  which  is  only  three  or  four  days' 
extra  march  from  Rosario.  From  Rio  Cuarto  it  will  be 
different,  as  the  distance  is  greater,  and  the  difficulties 
of  the  road  between  it  and  Villa  Maria,  including  the 
crossing  of  two  rivers,  will  be  sufficient  to  induce  them 
to  make  Rio  Cuarto  their  terminus,  and  transfer  all  the 
goods  to  the  railway.  Land  and  house  j)roperty  has 
increased  in  value  enormously  about  this  town. 

Villa  Nueva  is  another  important  town,  situate  on  the 
south  side  of  the  Rio  Tercero,  and  immediately  in  front 
of  the  railway  station  at  Villa  Maria.  This  latter  has 
grown  up,  as  if  by  magic,  in  the  midst  of  a  wilderness, 
which  the  author  remembers  a  few  years  ago  as  the  fa- 
vourite haunt  of  wild  deer  and  the  scene  of  frequent 
nocturnal  invasions  by  the  red  man  of  the  pampa.  Now 
it  is  studded  with  handsome  little  edifices,  amongst  them 
two  or  three  fine  hotels.  Business  is  very  brisk,  and  all 
day  long  the  yells  of  the  noisy  waggon  driver,  and  un- 
bearable screeching  of  the  wooden-axled,  cumbrous 
carretas  resound  through  the  forest,  and  wake  up 
stirring  echoes,  which,  although  not  melodious,  proclaim 
the  march  of  civilization  and  commerce. 

Farther  east,  and  nearer  Rosario,  is  situated  Belville 
— formerly  Frayle  Muerto, — the  centre  of  British  agri- 
cultural enterprise  in  the  River  Plate.  This  little  village 
is  now  the  property  of  a  gentleman  of  energy  and  indus- 
trious perseverance,  who,  by  sheer  determination  to 
succeed,  has  succeeded,  in  establishing  a  thriving  colony 
composed  of  some  of  the  first  blood  of  our  English 
landed  gentry.  To  Mr.  Melrose  is  due  the  mtroduction 
of  the  steam  plough  to  South  America,  and  our  worthy 
President,  Senor  Sarmiento,  paid  him  a  very  high  compli- 


271 

ment  on  his  achievements  when  recently  on  a  visit  to 
the  colony.  It  was  during  this  visit  (in  February,  1870) 
that  his  Excellency  wiped  out  the  name  of  Frayle  Muerto 
(Dead  Friar),  and  in  true  American  style,  having  ascer- 
tained who  was  the  first  English  settler  there  (Mr.  Bell), 
proclaimed  to  the  assembled  guests  that  thenceforth  it 
should  bear  the  name  of  Belville.  Immediately  on  his 
return  to  the  capital,  the  President  addressed  a  long 
note  to  the  author,  detailing  the  experience  he  gathered 
in  that  memorable  trip  to  the  provinces,  which  will 
doubtless  stimulate  the  rapid  development  of  their  agri- 
cultural resources. 

I  cannot  do  better  than  translate,  almost  literally,  his 
Excellency's  most  able  letter,  and  although  it  has  been 
already  published  in  some  of  the  leading  journals  of  the 
world's  metropolis,  it  may  prove  interesting  to  those 
whose  notice  it  may  j)robably  have  escaped : — 

The  President  of  the  Republic 

to  Major  F.  Ignacio  Rickard. 

Buenos  Atres,  Feh.  12th,  1870. 
My  Esteemed  Friend, 

Your  letter  just  received  contains  some  valuable  sug- 
gestions. As  you  observe,  the  great  question  for  this 
country  is  that  of  immigration,  and  your  communication, 
informing  me  that  philanthropists  and  capitalists  pro- 
pose to  encourage  it,  reached  me  just  two  days  after  my 
return  from  Cordoba,  Santa  Fe,  and  Entre  Rios,  where 
I  had  proceeded,  accompanied  by  all  the  foreign  Minis- 
ters (with  the  exception  of  the  English  representative), 
in  order  to  inspect  for  myself  the  colonies  formed  by 
Germans,  Swiss,  and  Italians.  The  result  of  this  jour- 
ney will  be  of  immense  importance,  and  the  indications 
in  your  letter  tend  to  confirm  my  convictions. 


272 

What  I  have  seen  surpassed  all  that  I  could  possibly 
have  anticipated.  The  efforts  to  cultivate  the  land  in 
Santa  Fe  and  Cordoba  have  proved  extraordinarily  suc- 
cessful. In  nineteen  colonies,  some  of  them  with  eight 
square  leagues  (72  square  miles)  under  cultivation,  all 
the  families,  each  possessing  twenty  cuadras  (80  acres) 
enjoy  the  greatest  abundance.  The  President  of  the 
Municipality  of  Esperanza  stated  in  his  speech  what, 
perhaps,  has  never  been  before  said  in  any  community, 
— '"'■  Here^  sir^  we  are  all  ricliP  And  he  spoke  the  truth. 
The  same,  and  perhaps  greater  prosperity,  exists  in  all 
the  other  colonies. 

In  Frayle  Muerto,  now  named  Belville,  a  number 
of  young  Englishmen  have,  with  equal  success,  com- 
menced the  cultivation  of  the  pampa,  bringing  into 
operation  steam  ploughs  and  all  the  most  perfect  me- 
chanical appliances  employed  in  English  agriculture. 
Many  are  now  rich,  and  propose  to  extend  the  sphere  of 
their  labours.  In  Caiiada  de  Gomez,  on  the  lands  of 
the  Central  Argentine  Railway,  another  experiment  has 
been  made  by  the  son-in-law  of  Mr.  Wheelwright,  with 
the  best  results  yet  obtained,  having,  for  instance,  culti- 
vated, sown,  and  reaped  in  ten  months  a  square  mile, 
the  produce  of  which  almost  covered  the  total  original 
outlay.  Thus,  4,000  leagues  of  land  may,  in  four  years, 
be  brought  under  cultivation,  if  we  have  colonists  willing 
to  take  them  at  moderate  prices,  and  with  long  terms 
for  payment  of  the  purchase  money.  The  colonists  of 
Santa  Fe  have,  within  the  second  or  third  year  at 
furthest,  discharged  their  original  liabilities,  which  in- 
cluded the  cost  of  the  land  and  advances  for  provisions, 
implements,  homesteads,  and  live  stock.  One  colonist 
has  erected  a  mill  at  a  cost  of  £10,000  sterling,  and  he 


273 

boasts  thfit  he  had  not  more  than  five  francs  in  his  pocket 
when  he  arrived  in  the  country.  The  province  of  Santa 
Fe  offers,  by  a  law  of  the  Legislature,  1,000  leagues  of 
land  for  sale  at  the  rate  of  about  £30  for  every  80  acres, 
to  be  paid  within  five  years.  The  Gran  Chaco  Railway 
possesses  190  leagues,  which  the  proprietors  are  desirous 
to  colonize  as  early  as  possible,  and  the  province  of  Cor- 
doba has  all  the  country  which  has  been  conquered  this 
year  from  the  Indians  between  Rio  Cuarto  and  Rio 
Quinto.  The  National  Government  can  dispose  of  two 
leagues  along  the  route  of  the  railway,  already  contracted 
for,  between  the  Rio  Cuarto  and  Villa  Maria.  I  need 
not  mention  to  you  the  Chaco  and  Missions,  for  they  are 
more  distant  from  the  populated  portions  of  the  Re- 
public. 

Therefore  you  need  have  no  anxiety  with  reference 
to  lands  nor  the  favourable  conditions  on  which  they 
may  be  acquired.  They  are  here  ready  for  you,  whether 
along  the  navigable  rivers  or  opened  up  by  railway 
communication,  and  sufficient  for  the  location  of  100,000 
families ! 

The  most  important  point,  however,  and  to  which  I 
would  call  your  earnest  attention — is  the  selection  of 
the  immigrants,  and  our  aim  should  be,  if  possible,  to 
obtain  those  from  the  North  of  Europe,  and  Englishmen 
in  particular.  But  I  fear  that,  through  the  mistaken 
sentiments  of  philanthropy,  the  excess  of  population  in 
the  great  cities — people  little  fitted  for  the  labours  of 
the  field  and  frequently  ill-prepared  for  hard  work — 
may  be  sent  to  these  countries. 

I  am  aware  that  such  is  the  state  of  things  created  in 
the  rural  districts  in  England  by  the  extensive  applica- 
tion of  machinery  and  capital  to  agriculture  on  a  large 

2K 


274 

scale,  that  the  small  tenant  farmers  and  labourers  can- 
not find  the  means  of  subsistence.  These  are  the 
people  who  ought  to  be  preferred,  and  intelligent  philan- 
thropists should  direct  their  efforts  to  provide  means  for 
their  conveyance  out  and  settlement.  Within  two  years 
they  would  be  in  a  position  to  repay  all  that  had  been 
advanced  to  them,  and  would  have  raised  themselves  to 
the  position  of  proprietors — comparatively  rich  and 
happy. 

For  a  distance  of  eighty  miles  the  railway  was  laid 
down,  as  you  know,  upon  the  surface  of  the  plains,  with- 
out the  necessity  of  raising  earthworks. 

The  first  great  work  here  is  to  plough ;  the  second  to 
reap. 

The  colonies  of  Santa  Fe  were  formed  by  giving  to 
each  family  80  acres  of  land,  a  rancho  or  house,  a  plough, 
a  yoke  of  oxen,  and  subsistence  for  a  year ;  and,  in  ge- 
neral, all  has  been  repaid  in  three  years  at  the  outside. 
The  Legislature  of  Santa  Fe  solicited  from  the  National 
Government  their  guarantee  for  a  million  hard  dollars 
to  make  advances  to  and  secure  the  introduction  of 
colonists,  but  the  Congress  refused  their  assent  to  the 
proposal.  If  associations  could  be  organised  in  England 
to  send  out  agricultural  colonists,  the  land  will  serve  as 
a  guarantee  for  the  advances  made. 

It  is,  therefore,  important  that  you  should  make  known 
the  advantages  which  exist  here,  and  which  are  not  now 
so  positive  in  the  United  States,  where  mechanics  and 
artizans  are  preferred,  because  the  American  agricultu- 
rists are  themselves  more  suitable  than  European 
labooi'ers  for  farming  operations  in  that  territory. 

You  may,  in  view  of  these  facts  and  data,  which  are 
unquestionable,  for  I  have  myself  collected  them  on  the 


275 

spot,  after  having  conversed  with  the  colonists  in  every 
direction,  assure  those  interested  in  emigration  that  in  no 
country  whatever  can  settlers  secure  superior  or  more 
tangible  advantages.  The  impulse  is  given,  and  that 
part  of  the  territory  which  lies  between  the  Parana  and 
the  Rio  Quinto  is  destined  to  become  the  arena  of  a 
dense  and  rapidly  increasing  population,  to  the  vast 
profit  of  the  country  and  its  inhabitants. 

My  entire  journey  through  those  districts,  though 
fatiguing  from  the  heat,  has  been  a  real  march  of  plea- 
sure and  triumph,  marked  by  cordial  expressions  of 
kindness  from  people  of  all  nations,  equally  with  our 
own,  the  populations  universally  appreciating  the  benefits 
of  peace,  which  has  now  taken  permanent  root  in  the 
country. 

I  may  observe  that  the  mode  of  settlement  adopted 
in  the  English  colony  of  Belville,  Caiiada  de  Gomez,  &c., 
appears  to  me  to  be  superior  to  all  others ;  and  shows  me 
what  might  be  done  here  by  4,000  or  6,000  young  Eng- 
lishmen, with  a  certain  amount  of  capital  and  machinery, 
and  possessing  that  intelligence  which  has  created  such 
enchantmg  homesteads  in  Great  Britain. 

The  frontiers  are  now  secure  against  invasion,  and 
northwards  have  been  carried  back  to  the  Paso  del  Rei ; 
Octavian  tranquillity  and  peace  reign  in  the  interior; 
and  as  to  the  credit  of  the  Republic,  you  in  London  can  l 
judge  more  correctly  than  we  can.  My  desire  is  to 
render  these  elements  fruitful,  and  as  far  as  possible  to 
transform  our  pastoral  into  agricultural  industry  by 
means  of  an  extensive  system  of  immigration,  which,  as 
I  have  already  said,  I  prefer  to  be  English. 

Hasten  forward  the  conclusion  of  your  work,  and  re- 
turn as  soon  as  possible.     Inspire  capitalists  with  confi- 


276 

dence  in  the  country ;  above  all  agitate  the  question  of 
Agricultural  Emigration,  and  command  the  support  of 
your  sincere  friend, 

D.  F.  Sarmiento. 

The  sentiments  expressed  in  the  foregoing  note  do 
honour  to  the  ruler  of  the  Argentine  nation,  and  ought  to 
prove  to  us  the  vivid  interest  he  takes  in  the  peopling  of 
his  country  by  British  colonists.  He  has  passed  many 
years  amongst  our  half-brothers  in  the  great  Republic  of 
the  north,  and  is  fully  convinced  of  the  great  superiority 
of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race. 

I  will  conclude  this  sketch  of  the  province  of  Cordoba 
by  simply  stating  that  I  consider  it,  and  the  adjoining 
province  of  Santa  Fe,  as  destined  to  outstrip  all  the 
others  in  the  rapid  development  of  their  pastoral  and 
agricultural  wealth.  They  have  enlightened  and  wise 
Governments,  directed  by  men  whose  interests  are 
bound  up  in  the  prosperity  of  the  country,  and  who  will 
not  hesitate  to  make  every  personal  sacrifice  to  ensure 
its  success  and  advancement. 

Population,  1869.— City,  34,476;  country,  181,765; 
total,  216,241. 

MINERAL  RESOURCES,  &c. 

This  province,  from  its  geographical  situation,  proxi- 
mity to  the  centres  of  commerce  and  population  on  the 
coast,  and  superior  facilities  for  transport  and  communi- 
cation, may  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  important, 
as  respects  its  vast,  but  still  undeveloped  mineral  wealth. 
From  a  commercial  point  of  view,  it  is  perhaps  entitled 
to  rank  at  the  head  of  the  other  provinces,  for,  though 
its  ores  are  not  so  rich  in  silver  as  those  of  Rioja,  they 
are  of  greater  mercantile  value,  owing  to  their  abun- 


277 

dance  and  the  existence  of  easy  and  cheap  means  of 
transport  to  European  markets.  The  mines  of  Cordoba 
are,  therefore,  well  worthy  of  the  serious  attention  of 
capitalists  at  home  and  abroad. 

Mining  operations  are  at  present  carried  on  to  a  very 
limited  extent,  and  these  with  neither  energy,  enterprise, 
nor  spirit.  This  is  partly  due  to  the  restricted  capital 
employed,  and  the  want  of  practical  knowledge  on  the 
part  of  the  miners  themselves.  Besides,  nearly  all  the 
mines  are  invaded  by  water  at  a  depth  of  15  fathoms, 
and  though  the  quantity  is  comparatively  inconsiderable, 
it  is  sufficiently  important  to  defy  the  feeble  efforts 
made  for  its  suppression  by  the  aid  of  leathern  bags  and 
badly  constructed  lifts. 

The  mines  of  Cordoba  can  only  be  efficiently  drained 
and  worked  by  the  aid  of  steam  engines,  with  good 
pumps.  The  ground  and  district  are  favourable  for 
the  transport  and  erection  of  such  machinery ;  there  is 
also  abundance  of  fuel,  and  the  completion  of  the  new 
cart  road  from  Cordoba  to  San  Juan  will  render  the 
mines  easily  accessible  and  place  them  in  facile  com- 
munication with  each  other. 

The  silver  lead  mining  districts  of  the  province  are 
situate  on  the  far  side  of  the  high  Sierra  to  the  west  of 
the  city,  and  at  a  distance  by  the  carriage  road  of  40 
leagues,  more  or  less,  but,  by  crossing  the  mountains 
in  a  direct  line,  a  saving  of  at  least  ten  leagues  is 
effected.  There  are  two  districts  of  special  importance, 
those  of  Guayco  and  Ojo  de  Agua,  respectively  lo- 
cated in  the  departments  of  Minas  and  Cruz  del  Eje. 

The  copper  mining  district  is  at  the  eastern  foot  of 
the  Sierra,  south  of  the  capital,  and  by  road  is  situate 
at  a  distance  of  16  leagues.      This  road  is  level  and 


278 

goocl,   and  the  district  itself  is  in  the   department  of 
Calamuchita. 

MINERAL  DISTRICT  OF  ARGENTINA  OR  OJO  DE  AGUA. 

The  only  mine  at  work  in  this  district  was  the 
Compania^  belonging  to  the  Messrs.  Roque  Brothers. 
It  is  much  worked  out,  gutted  superficially,  and  ex- 
hausted to  the  lowest  accessible  levels.  These  are  at 
a  vertical  depth  of  only  twenty  fathoms  and  in  water. 
The  vein  runs  from  west  to  east  ;  22  degrees  to  the 
north,  towards  which  it  has  also  an  inclination  or  dip  of 
45  degrees.  It  is  about  nine  inches  in  width,  and  was 
stated  to  be  in  beneficio  in  the  lower  levels,  with 
argentiferous  galenas,  holding  177  ounces  of  silver  to 
the  ton ;  but,  the  water  preventing  personal  inspection, 
I  am  unable  to  confirm  this  assertion.  There  is  a  ver- 
tical shaft  sunk  on  the  lode  45  metres  in  depth,  which 
Messrs.  Roque  now  utilize  for  the  manufacture  of  lead 
shot. 

This  lode  has  yielded  rich  silver  ores  on  the  surface, 
principally  "  warm  metals"  (chlorides),  which  were 
then  beneficiated  by  amalgamation;  but  this  system 
has  now  been  abandoned  in  the  district,  as  nearly  all 
the  veins,  on  being  followed  in  depth,  are  found  to 
consist  of  argentiferous  galenas,  or  sulphides  of  lead 
with  silver.  This  mine  was  worked  from  the  year  1835 
to  1861,  with  two  or  three  intervals  of  paralyzation,  and 
the  net  profit  to  its  owners  is  estimated  to  have  been 
£5,500  to  £6,500.  The  actual  workings  are  limited  to 
superficial  explorations,  more  with  the  object  of  keeping 
them  open  and  preserving  legal  rights  of  ownership  than 
of  obtaining  profit ;  the  principal  beneficio  being  in  the 
lower  levels,  a  steam  engine  and  good  pumps  would  be 


279 

necessary  to  drain  them.     Only  two  miners  and  one 
labourer  were  employed  at  the  time  of  my  visit. 

In  this  department  a  considerable  number  of  mines 
have  either  suspended  work  or  are  abandoned.  One  of 
these,  to  which  special  reference  may  be  made,  is  called 
La  Argentina^  which  was  formerly  the  most  famous 
mine  of  its  time,  and  is  still  well  worthy  of  attention. 
It  belongs  to  Messrs.  Lastra  and  Co.,  and  was  dis- 
covered in  the  year  1834.  The  direction  of  the  lode  is 
almost  identical  with  that  of  the  Compania,  and  is 
about  a  yard  in  width.  On  the  surface  the  ores  are 
"  warm"  and  quartzose,  with  an  average  ley  for  silver 
of  118.4  to  148  ounces  to  the  ton.  At  greater  depth 
the  vein  is  composed  of  galena,  mixed  with  "warm 
metals,"  but  the  walls  are  so  loose  and  broken  up  that 
heavy  timbering  would  be  necessary  for  its  safe  work- 
ing. There  is  a  vertical  shaft  of  thirty  fathoms  on  the 
lode,  and  an  eight-horse  steam-engine  with  two  pumps 
still  exist,  but  not  very  serviceable  in  their  present 
condition  and  after  many  years  of  abandonment.  T  hese 
were  imported  from  England  in  the  year  1838,  and 
are  consequently  of  antiquated  construction.  The 
engine  was,  nevertheless,  in  more  serviceable  condition 
than  the  pumps,  and  with  a  little  repair  and  good  pumps 
the  water  in  the  mine  might  be  easily  kept  under. 
Unfortunately  the  political  disturbances  of  1840,  and 
the  despotic  orders  of  the  tyrant  Rosas  compelled  the 
owners  to  fly  the  country  and  abandon  their  labours. 
On  the  return  of  the  proprietors  it  was  restored  to 
working  order  by  a  French  machinist,  but  the  results 
were  not  satisfactory. 

There  are  the  remains  of  a  reverberatory  furnace, 
with  a  stack  40  feet  high  close  to  the  mine.     It  was 


280 

constructed  many  years  ago  to  reduce  ores  with 
litharge  and  the  ash  of  the  jume  (impure  carbonate  of 
soda),  but  without  much  success. 

The  mine  is  worked  for  about  100  yards  longitu- 
dinally, and  might  be  re-opened  advantageously. 

Very  wide  veins  of  auriferous  iron  ore,  which  ought 
to  hold  a  fair  proportion  of  gold,  exist  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood ;  but,  unfortunately,  having  lost  the  samples 
taken  for  assay,  I  am  not  in  a  position  to  state  the 
actual  ley.  Nevertheless,  judging  by  the  class  of  ore, 
these  veins  are  probably  of  commercial  value. 

There  are  numerous  virgin  lodes  in  this  department, 
and  many  others  that  have  been  superficially  worked 
and  abandoned;  but,  if  an  impulse  were  given  to 
minino-  industry  in  this  part  of  the  republic,  no  doubt 
most  of  these  lodes  would  be  profitably  utilized. 

MINERAL  DISTRICT  OF  GUATCO. 

There  are  seven  mines  in  actual  work  in  this  dis- 
trict : — 

1.  The  Buena  Ventura  mine  is  the  property  of  Messrs. 
Manuel  de  la  Lastra  and  Co.,  and  is  situate  in  the  Cerro 
of  Casa  del  Tigre,  at  a  distance  of  39  leagues  from  the 
capital.  The  vein,  which  is  firm  and  well  formed,  runs 
from  south  to  north,  and  is  composed  of  galena  and 
blende,  holding  148  ounces  to  the  ton;  it  is  about  a 
yard  in  width.  There  are  two  workings  in  rich  bene- 
ficio,  one  at  20  fathoms  and  the  other  at  35  fathoms; 
both  are  m  water.  There  is  also  a  vertical  shaft  of  18 
fathoms,  another  of  ten  fathoms  ;  two  hand  pumps  were 
in  use  to  expel  the  water.  Many  workings  are  in  pinta, 
orfirst-class  ore.  The  capital  invested  was  about  £5,800. 
Seventy  men  were  employed.   Only  one  level  was  bemg 


281 

worked,    the  others  being     negk^cted    from    want   of 
resources. 

2.  The  Santiago  name,  which  belongs  to  the  same 
owners,  is  located  in  the  Cerro  Juan  Chiquito,  at  a  dis- 
tance from  the  capital  of  38  leagues.  The  lode  is  firm, 
half  a  yard  in  width,  in  argentiferous  galenas,  holding 
about  118.4  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton.  Its  direction 
is  also  south  to  north.  There  are  four  workings,  two 
of  which  are  in  beneficio ;  but  only  one  was  yielding  ore. 
A  vertical  shaft  has  been  sunk  to  a  depth  of  15  fathoms. 
Thirty  men  were  employed.  The  capital  invested 
about  £2,000.     The  workings  are  in  water. 

3.  The  Ana  Maria  mine  belongs  to  Messrs.  Adolfo 
Eoque  and  Co.,  and  is  situate  in  the  Cerro  de  las 
Yacas,  at  a  distance  of  36  leagues  from  the  capital. 
This  vein  runs  from  south  to  north,  and  consists  of 
galena  and  blende,  holding  about  254.56  ounces  of 
silver  to  the  ton.  There  are  four  workings  in  bene- 
ficio and  one  in  broceo ;  the  claim  covers  a  superficial 
extent  of  400  yards,  worked  to  a  depth  of  about  20 
fathoms.  Only  one  working  was  in  actual  yield,  the 
others  being  neglected  for  want  of  pecuniary  resources. 
The  capital  invested  is  not  over  £100,  and  not  more 
than  ten  men  were  employed. 

4.  The  Peregrina  mine,  belonging  to  Messrs.  Gay 
and  Illanes,  is  located  in  the  Canada  de  la  Brea,  at  a 
a  distance  of  36  leagues  from  the  capital.  The  direction 
of  this  vein,  which  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  yard  in  width, 
is  also  from  south  to  north,  and  consists  of  galena  and 
blende,  holding  88.8  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton.  There 
is  but  one  working,  which  is  in  beneficio,  about  twelve 
fathoms  in  length  and  six  in  depth.  About  £300  had 
been  invested,  and  only  17  men  were  employed. 

2L 


282 

5.  The  Henriqueta  mine  is  the  property  of  Don  Julian 
Courthiacle,  and  is  situate  in  the  Cerro  San  Jorge,  at  a 
distance  of  39  leagues  from  the  capital.  The  vein  runs 
from  south  to  north,  and  consists  of  galena  and  blende, 
holding  118.4  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton.  One  work- 
ing, 25  fathoms  in  length,  is  in  beneficio,  but  various 
others  are  in  broceo.  There  is  a  vertical  shaft  sunk  to 
a  depth  of  about  22  fathoms.  The  lower  workings  are 
in  water,  and  neglected  on  that  account,  the  owners  not 
possessing  the  necessary  means  for  its  removal.  Capital 
invested  very  inconsiderable,  and  only  twelve  men  were 
employed. 

6.  The  Puerto  mine  belongs  to  the  same  owner  as  the 
preceding,  and  is  located  in  the  Cerro  Aguardita  de  los 
Tunas,  about  40  leagues  distant  from  the  capital.  The 
direction  of  the  lode  is  east  to  west,  and  consists  of 
galena  and  blende,  holding  148  ounces  of  silver  to  the 
ton.  There  were  two  workings,  one  being  in  beneficio 
and  the  other  in  broceo.  Both  were  yielding  ore.  This 
mine  had  been  recently  discovered.  Capital  invested 
very  small,  and  only  13  men  were  employed. 

7.  The  Nino-Dios  mine  is  the  property  of  Messrs. 
Bustamente  and  Co.,  and  situate  in  the  Cerro  La  Trilla, 
at  a  distance  of  30  leagues  from  the  capital.  This  vein, 
like  the  preceding,  runs  from  east  to  west,  and  consists  of 
galena  and  blende,  holding  llB.4  ounces  of  silver  to  the 
ton.  There  are  three  workings,  only  one  of  which  is 
in  actual  yield,  the  others  being  neglected  for  want  of 
capital  and  means  to  remove  the  water,  The  workings 
are  all  in  beneficio,  and  have  vertical  shafts,  respec- 
tively sunk  to  a  depth  of  about  27,  22,  and  15  fathoms. 
An  adit  has  also  been  driven  for  250  yards.  Capital 
invested  upwards  of  £3,000,  and  92  men  were  employed. 


283 

In  addition  to  these  there  are  about  eighty  mines, 
which  have  been  more  or  less  worked  out,  but  the  major 
P'dYt  of  them  so  choked  up  with  earth  and  water  as  to 
render  personal  examination  impossible.  They  are  now 
public  property,  and  include  some  lodes  which  might 
be  of  great  importance.  As  in  the  case  of  the  Bella 
Americana  and  San  Augustin^  there  are  a  number  of  firm 
and  well  formed  lodes,  almost  vertical,  and  varying  in 
width  from  1  to  IJ  yards,  with  well  defined  walls. 
Water  appears  in  nearly  all  of  them  at  a  depth  of  15 
fathoms,  which  is  the  cause  of  their  having  been  aban- 
doned, the  people  being,  as  before  stated,  without  ade- 
quate means  for  removing  the  water  by  pumps,  while 
the  mountains,  from  their  gentle  and  easy  declivity,  are 
unfavourable  to  adit  driving.  All  these  mines  are 
without  exception  worked  out  and  almost  exhausted  on 
the  surface,  where  chlorides  of  silver  were  abundantly 
found ;  indeed,  I  saw  quartz  stones  with  small  pieces  of 
this  precious  metal  half  an  inch  thick,  holding  75  per 
cent,  of  silver. 

The  system  of  working  followed  in  Cordoba  consists 
principally  of  galleries,  whose  pillars  are  stoped  out  and 
the  whole  of  the  ore  extracted. 

I  consider  the  veins  to  be  firm,  well  formed,  and 
lasting,  and  believe  that  their  exploitation  would  prove 
very  profitable  if  good  and  efiicient  machinery  for 
removing  the  water  and  raising  the  ores  were  applied. 
The  water  taken  from  the  mine  could  be  utilized  for 
washing  and  dressing  the  ores,  to  be  sold  in  this  state 
for  treatment  at  the  reduction  establishments.  To 
accomplish  this,  however,  and  to  place  the  workings  on 
a  profitable  footing,  it  would  be  necessary  to  invest  at 
least  about  £3,400. 


284 

The  geological  formation  is  the  primary,  volcanic 
and  granitic,  accompanied  by  metamorphic  rocks. 
Gneiss  and  serpentine  are  found  in  nearly  all  parts  of 
the  Ojo  de  Agua  district,  and  the  primitive  schists  and 
serpentine,  with  syenite,  in  that  of  Guayco. 

Below  I  quote  some  figures  to  show  the  ley  of  the 
Cordoba  ores  as  compared  with  those  of  some  European 
coimtries  and  districts  exhibited  at  the  Paris  Uni- 
versal Exhibition  of  1867.  I  take  the  data  from  a 
pamphlet  published  in  France,  by  M.  Fuchs,  of  the  Im- 
perial Corps  of  Mining  Engineers,  and  M.  Banderalli, 
Ci\T.l  Mining  Engineer. 

The  nations,  whose  ores'  are  compared  with  those  of 
Corboba,  are  as  follows  : — 


France, — ley  of  silver 

to 

the 

ton, 

48.1888 

ounces. 

Germany             „ 

J5 

)j 

40.7888 

7> 

Belgium              „ 

J> 

3) 

59.4000 

)J 

Switzerland         >, 

>» 

)> 

13.6160 

)J 

Italy                    „ 

?> 

)J 

5.6240 

J' 

Sardinia              „ 

?7 

)J 

10.6560 

?3 

Spain                   „ 

5J 

59.4000 

)5 

Average  ley 

33.8920 

JJ 

-gentine  Republic  : — 

Province  of  Cordoba 

5? 

?9 

103.6000 

?» 

The  actual  produce  of  mining  in  the  province  of 
Cordoba  is,  I  need  hardly  state,  entirely  out  of  pro- 
portion to  its  mineral  resources,  the  development  of 
which  is  almost  at  a  stand-still,  owing  to  the  complete 
prostration  of  mining  operations  arising  from  the 
causes  already  indicated.  When,  however,  from  the 
years  1861  to  1866,  the  mines  of  the  province  were 
being  worked  with  greater  vigour  and  acti^dty,  highly 
favourable  and  promising  results  were  obtained.    From 


285 

one  mine  alone — the  Santa  Eufemia — with  two  years' 
working,  34,669  ounces  of  silver  were  extracted  by 
Don  Augusto  Conil,  the  value  of  which  may  be  stated 
at  about  £9,350.  Many  of  the  mines  of  Messrs.  Roque 
and  Lastra  were  equally  productive,  and  the  annual 
produce  of  the  mines  in  the  period  specified  may, 
without  exaggeration,  be  estimated  at  more  or  less 
1,850,000  ounces  of  silver,  or  an  approximate  value  of 
£50,000. 

REDUCTION"  WORKS. 

At  the  time  of  my  visit  only  three  works  for  the 
treatment  of  ore  were  in  active  oj^eration,  z.e.,  the 
Trapiche  de  Mercedes  (Taninga),  the  Ojo  de  Agiia^  and 
Santa  Barbara. 

The  first  is  at  a  distance  of  25  leagues  westwards 
from  Corboba,  and  is  situate  in  the  valley  of  Salsacaste, 
about  14  leagues  south  from  Guayco.  It  belongs  to 
Messrs.  Manuel  de  la  Lastra  and  Co.,  but  is  now 
rented  by  Don  Antonio  Garassini,  an  Italian,  who  was 
resmelting  the  old  slags,  mixed  with  ores,  which  he 
either  purchased,  or  received  to  smelt,  charging  re- 
turning dues.  This  establishment  consists  of  two 
blast  furnaces,  one  for  refining,  and  two  reverberatory 
furnaces  for  slagging  and  calcining  the  ores. 

The  system  followed  is  precisely  the  same  as  that  in 
practice  at  La  Huerta,  San  Juan,  by  the  Messrs. 
Klappenbach,  a  description  of  which  has  been  pre- 
viously given.  The  sole  difference  is  that  here  the 
throat  of  the  blast  furnace  is  not  allowed  to  flame, 
which  is  a  most  important  feature  in  economical  smelt- 
ing, and  avoiding  loss  by  volatilization  of  the  lead. 

In  Taninga  they  have  better  blowing  machines  than 


286 

in  La  Huerta,  the  apparatus  beiiig  what  the  French  call 
the  "  trompe." 

There  is  a  large  quantity  of  old  slags  left  from  former 
smelting  operations — not  less  than  3,750  tons,  holding 
about  20  per  cent,  of  lead  and  14'8  ounces  of  silver  to 
the  ton.  Formerly  the  object  of  reduction  was  solely 
to  extract  the  silver  from  the  ores,  disreo:ardino:  the 
lead,  the  exportation  of  the  latter  being  at  that  time 
commercially  unprofitable;  now  it  is  different,  as  the 
Messrs.  Roque  utilize  it  in  the  manufacture  of  shot,  for 
which  there  is  a  large  consumption. 

Sixty-seven  persons  were  employed  at  these  reduction 
works,  with  200  oxen,  20  carts,  60  mules,  and  8  muleteers. 

During  the  year  1868,  220  tons  of  ores  were  smelted, 
exclusive  of  the  old  slags,  producmg  about  22,000 
ounces  of  silver  of  an  approximate  value  of  £5,600. 

The  average  ley  of  the  ores  received  from  the  mines 
and  reduced  was  103*6  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton,  and 
50  per  cent,  of  lead. 

About  38  tons  of  ore  are  reduced  per  month,  and 
the  proprietor  charges  for  smelting  at  the  rate  of  £6 
per  ton,  delivering  the  resulting  bar  silver,  but  retain- 
ing the  lead  to  the  profit  of  the  works. 

Firewood  is  abundant,  and  costs  4s.  per  ton;  charcoal 
about  21s,  and  freight  on  the  conveyance  of  ores  from 
Guayco  to  Taninga,  9s.  4d.  per  ton.  There  is  pleniy 
of  natural  grass  pasture,  but  little  alfalfa.  A  consider- 
able stream  of  water  runs  close  to  the  works.  There 
are  old  works  close  to  for  the  amalgamation  of  ores  on 
the  old  system,  whose  barrels  and  machinery  still  exist, 
but  are  now  broken  down  and  almost  totally  useless. 

There  are  also  a  set  of  stamps  and  two  jigging 
machines  for  washing  the  ores  and  ground  slags. 


287 

The  stock  of  lead  in  deposit  consisted  of  7  J  tons,  with 
2,220  ounces  of  silver,  and  15  tons  of  lead  reduced  from 
litharge  for  shot,  containing  about  13*32  ounces  of 
silver  to  the  ton ;  the  precious  metal  is  not,  however, 
further  extracted  from  the  latter,  as  the  cost  would  be 
too  great. 

The  capital  invested,  £5,000;  the  houses  are  con- 
venient and  roomy. 

The  Ojo  de  Agua  reduction  works  are  situate  seven 
leagues  to  the  north-east  from  Taninga,  in  the  direction 
of  the  mining  district  of  Guayco.  They  formerly  be- 
longed to  Messrs.  Roque  Brothers,  and  were  established 
in  the  year  1834  by  Don  Leon  Roque,  (now  sole  owner) 
who  carried  them  on  for  some  time,  beneficiating  "  warm 
metals"  by  the  process  of  amalgamation;  but  argen- 
tiferous galena  having  appeared  in  almost  all  the  veins 
in  depth,  he  changed  the  system  for  smelting  furnaces. 
At  the  beginning  many  difficulties  were  experienced,  and 
these  were  not  surmounted  until  Don  Leon  Roque 
visited  Pontgibaud,  in  France,  whence  he  introduced  the 
system  then  in  operation  there,  and  which  is  now  almost 
universally  followed  in  the  Argentine  Republic. 

This  system  is  very  imperfect,  and  has  for  this 
reason  been  abandoned  at  Pontgibaud ;  but  at  Ojo  de 
Agua  and  elsewhere  in  the  Republic  the  native  peones 
are  incapable  of  working  by  any  other,  and  this  prevents 
improvements  and  alterations  being  made. 

The  dimensions  of  the  furnaces  at  Taninga  and  Santa 
Barbara,  as  well  as  at  La  Huerta,  in  San  Juan,  were 
taken  from  those  of  Ojo  de  Agua. 

In  fifteen  years  Messrs.  Roque  smelted  large  quan- 
tities of  ore,  realizing  thereby  a  considerable  fortune. 
For  some  years  past,  however,   the  works  have  been 


288 

partially  abandoned  and  fallen  into  a  dilapidated  state, 
owing  to  the  repeated  absence  of  the  owner  in  France 
and  the  abandonment  of  the  establishment  to  the  native 
labourers. 

At  the  time  of  my  visit  an  old  mayordomo  was  en- 
gaged in  smelting  slags  solely  with  the  view  to  extract 
lead  for  the  manufacture  of  shot.  There  is  only  one  blast 
furnace,  one  for  refining,  and  another  for  calcining  and 
slagging.  The  system  is  similar  to  that  in  practice  at 
La  Huerta,  in  San  Juan,  already  described. 

The  motive  power  is  an  overshot  water  wheel,  25 
feet  in  diameter  and  only  fifteen  inches  breast ;  as  the 
supply  of  water  is  very  limited,  the  highest  possible  fall 
has  to  be  secured.  This  wheel  propels  ths  fan,  and 
another,  20  feet  in  diameter,  further  up  on  the  stream, 
works  three  heads  of  stamps  for  preparing  the  ore  for 
calcination. 

The  furnaces  at  these  works  were  about  to  be  repaired 
and  others  constructed  upon  a  better  system,  in  con- 
formity with  that  now  adopted  at  Pontgibaud,  where 
Seiior  Roque  had  been  permitted  to  study  them,  and 
which  are  more  or  less  similar  to  those  erected  at  Hilario, 
in  San  Juan. 

There  is  a  large  accumulation  of  old  slao-s  here — about 
5,000  tons — holding  from  15  to  20  per  cent,  of  lead  and 
a  small  quantity  of  silver. 

At  a  short  distance  from  the  reduction  works  is  situ- 
ate the  shot  manufactory,  built  over  the  shaft  of  the 
mine  Compania,  which  has  been  utilized  for  this  purpose. 
About  2J  tons  of  shot  can  be  turned  out  daily,  but  of 
course  this  rate  of  production  is  not  kept  up  continuously. 
This  enterjDrise  has  already  yielded  a  splendid  profit,  the 
lead  converted  into  shot  realizing  about  £2  per  cwt. 


289 

The  following  were  employed  at  the  reduction  works 
in  May,  1869,  namely,  1  mayordomo,  4  carpenters,  2 
masons,  1  blacksmith,  42  labourers,  and  20  wood 
cutters,  charcoal  burners,  and  muleteers,  assisted  by  60 
peones,  making  a  grand  total  of  130  persons.  There 
were  also  62  oxen,  212  mules,  and  2  carts  occupied 
about  the  works. 

The  labourers  receive  13s.  4d.  per  month,  with  daily 
rations,  consisting  of  1  lb.  beef  and  2  cups  of  maize. 
Those  employed  in  the  mines  are  paid  from  16s.  8d.  to 
£1,  and  the  fore-miners  £1  13s.  4d.,  which  is  less  than 
in  any  other  part  of  the  Republic. 

Maize,  in  normal  times,  costs  from  10s.  to  13s.  4d. 
per  fanega  (300  lbs.) ;  beef  is  cheap — a  young  ox  may  be 
bought  for  £2,  and  cows  at  £1  6s.  8d.  to  £1  13s.  4d., 
according^  to  condition  and  weight. 

There  is  a  vineyard  and  a  fine  orchard  of  fruit  trees 
at  the  works,  as  also  very  comfortable  dwelling  houses 
for  the  men. 

The  Santa  Barbara  reduction  establishment  is  situate 
at  a  distance  of  nine  leagues  northwards  from  Ojo  de 
Agua  and  two  leagues  from  Guayco.  It  belongs  to  Don 
Manuel  de  la  Lastra  and  Co.,  and  was  in  full  activity, 
smelting  ores,  mixed  with  bottoms  from  the  refining 
furnace  and  old  slags. 

The  works  consist  of  three  blast,  one  reverberatory 
and  one  refining  furnace.  The  only  difference  between 
the  system  adopted  at  Santa  Barbara  and  that  in  prac- 
tice at  the  other  establishments  in  the  province  is  the 
calcination  of  the  oresin"tabiques,"  or  partially  enclosed 
rectangular  spaces,  in  the  open  air  before  the  final  calci- 
nation and  slagging  in  the  reverberatory  furnace.  There 
are  two  Chilian  mills,  or  edge  runners,  worked  by  mule 

2  M 


290 

power,  and  the  blast  is  supplied  by  the  trompe ;  as  already 
explained  at  Taninga,  the  fall  of  water  is  36  feet,  and 
there  is  abundance  of  it.  These  works  are  better  situ- 
ated than  either  of  the  others,  and  more  adapted  for  an 
extension  of  business,  as  the  abundance  of  water  affords 
an  important  source  of  motive  power  and  is  otherwise 
of  great  utility.  The  dwelling  houses  and  alfalfa  en- 
closures are  good,  and  the  lands  of  the  establishment, 
which  are  extensive,  are  also  of  superior  character. 

In  the  year  1868  eighty-four  tons  of  ore  were  smelted, 
and  produced  13,941  ounces  of  silver,  whose  value  there 
would  be  about  £3,700. 

The  total  monthly  disbursements  were  about  £80. 
Firewood  costs  2s.  8d.  per  ton;  charcoal,  £1  per  ton; 
flour,  16s.  8d.  per.  cwt. ;  maize,  16s.  8d.  per  fanega 
(300  lbs.);beef,  lid.  perlb. 

There  exists  here  a  large  quantity  of  old  slags,  about 
2,500  tons.  These  contain  15  per  cent,  of  lead.  The 
stock  in  the  ore  yard  comprised  36  tons  of  ore,  holding 
112*48  ounces  of  silver,  and  about  8  tons  of  argentiferous 
lead,  containing  about  1  per  cent,  of  silver.  There 
were  also  about  75  tons  of  bottoms  from  the  refining 
furnace,  consisting  of  lime  and  marly  earth,  with  29*4  to 
35'52  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton. 

These  works  were  founded  in  the  year  1832,  and  aban- 
doned up  to  1854,  when  the  furnaces  were  renovated ; 
since  that  time  reduction  operations  have  been  carried 
on  without  intermission.  The  capital  invested  is  about 
£1,300. 

The  following  were  employed  at  this  establishment : 

1  manager,  1  book-keeper,  2  mayordomos,  2  carpenters, 

2  blacksmiths,  6  fore-smelters,  12  assistant  smelters,  100 
Ifibourers,  3  charcoal  burners,  and  2   muleteers;  total. 


291 

131.       There   were    also   40    oxen,    25  mules,   and    6 
carts. 

The  amalgamation  works  of  La  Candelaria  were  in 
course  of  construction  by  Don  Carlos  Guilmar  d' Aragon, 
with  the  view  to  beneficiate  the  auriferous  ores  said  to 
exist  in  the  adjacent  mountains ;  there  are  many  open 
superficial  workings  on  quartz  veins,  in  some  of  which 
the  native  gold  was  visible.  A  few  samples  were  sub- 
mitted to  me  for  inspection  in  the  city,  but  I  was  unable 
to  see  or  examine  the  veins  themselves. 

I  was  also  shown  samples  of  rock  crystal  and  jasper, 
with  some  amethysts  of  good  quality,  which  had  likewise 
been  found  in  these  quartz  veins.  Veined  marbles, 
beautifully  tinted — green,  rose,  &c. — exist  in  the  same 
mountams,  where  gypsum  (sulphate  of  lime)  is  also, 
found  in  fair  abundance. 

The  calcareous  or  limestone  formation,  at  a  distance 
of  five  leagues  westwards  from  the  city,  will  be  doubt- 
less soon  of  the  hio;hest  commercial  value,  as  now  that 
facilities  for  cheap  and  ready  transport  are  afi'orded  by 
the  Central  Argentine  Railway,  even  Buenos  Ayres 
itself  may  be  supplied  with  this  article  of  extensive  and 
necessary  consumption. 

The  lime  produced  from  the  burned  stone  is  of  superior 
quality  and  strength,  one  part  being  equal  to  2  J  parts 
of  that  obtained  from  shells  on  the  Parand,  one  of  the 
present  and  former  principal  sources  of  lime  for  building 
purposes  at  Buenos  Ayres.  These  calcareous  deposits  are 
also  certain  to  become  a  source  of  considerable  wealth, 
as  excellent  marble,  which  may  be  cut  into  flags  for 
court-yards,  foot-paths,  and  the  embellishment  of 
buildings,  can  be  easily  obtained  from  them. 
Almost  everywhere  throughout  the  Sierra  excellent 


292 

refractory  material  is  found,  suitable  for  the  construc- 
tion of  furnaces.  Steatite  (soapstone)  exists  in  great 
quantity,  and,  when  properly  prepared,  lasts  as  Avell  in 
the  furnace  as  English  fire-bricks. 

COPPER  MINING  DISTRICT  OF  CALAMUCHITA. 

This  mineral  district  is  situate  16  leagues  southwards 
from  the  capital,  at  the  base  of  the  lower  ranges  or 
eastern  slopes  of  the  Sierra  de  Cordoba.  The  mines  in 
this  district,  discovered  many  years  ago,  were  in  the 
beginning  rather  enthusiastically  worked,  but  are  now 
being  merely  kept  open,  awaiting  the  completion  of  the 
railway.     The  principal  are  the  following : — 

The  mine  El  Tio  belongs  to  Mr.  Samuel  F.  Lafone, 
of  Monte  Video,  and  was  closed  from  the  year  1859  to 
1868 ;  the  workings  were  paralyzed  owing  to  an  illegal 
embargo  (in  consequence  of  a  lawsuit)  having  been 
placed  upon  the  establishment  to  which  the  ores  raised 
were  previously  sent  for  reduction.  Operations  have 
been  resumed  of  late  and  at  the  period  of  my  visit 
about  90  tons  of  ore  were  on  the  surface,  holding 
15  per  cent,  of  copper,  consisting  of  yellow  sulphides 
of  copper,  highly  ferrugineous.  At  seven  fathoms 
the  carbonates  and  silicates,  which  abounded  above 
that  depth,  entirely  disappeared,  but  the  vein  con- 
tinues in  the  above  ore  a  yard  in  width.  The 
workings  have  been  followed  to  the  lowest  levels,  which 
are  22^  fathoms  in  vertical  depth,  and  the  vein  had 
widened  at  this  point  to  about  1|  yards.  There  is  a 
vertical  shaft  in  five  fathoms  of  water.  In  the  same 
claim  there  are  two  other  lodes,  which  run  parallel  and 
are  well  formed,  but  divided  by  a  wall  of  gneiss  and 
mica-schist,  thirty  yards  thick,  in  the  centre  of  which 


293 

is  a  very  narrow  though  rich  vein  of  grey  copper.  The 
direction  of  the  veins  is  from  north-west  to  south-east; 
their  visible  longitudinal  extent  is  not  very  great. 
They  may,  however,  be  buried  under  surface,  as  the 
vegetation  and  soil  are  thick  about  the  spot. 

Not  more  than  40  to  50  yards  are  worked  longitudi- 
nally, and  water  already  interferes  with  the  lower 
workings;  but  an  adit  might  be  easily  driven  from  the 
foot  of  the  ravine,  which  would  drain  to  a  vertical  depth 
of  35  fathoms.  This  mine  is  at  present  solely  worked 
to  keep  it  open  and  to  prevent  its  being  denounced. 

The  same  may  be  said  of  the  Tauro  mine,  which  is 
five  leagues  further  north,  and  also  belongs  to  Mr.  La- 
fone.  This  vein  is  a  yard  in  width  and  consists  of  iron 
and  copper  pyrites — yellow  and  purple  sulphides.  The 
vertical  depth  of  the  workings  is  24  fathoms,  nearly  all 
of  which  are  invaded  by  water.  The  ores  of  this  mine 
are  purer  than  those  of  the  preceding,  and  the  dressed 
first  class  hold  18  per  cent,  of  copper.  There  are  100 
to  120  tons  of  dressed  ore  on  the  surface.  Only  two 
men  were  employed.  The  situation  of  this  mine  is  not 
so  favourable  for  the  driving  of  an  adit  as  that  of  El  Tio^ 
and  good  pumping  machinery  will  be  necessary  to  free 
it  of  water. 

The  Tacuru  mine,  which  belonged  to  Mr.  Daniel 
Gowland,  of  Buenos  Ayres,  is  now  full  of  water,  and 
some  of  the  workings  choked  up  with  debris.  It  has 
been  abandoned  for  many  years.  Its  ores  are  very 
simikr  to  those  of  the  Tio  mine,  but  owing  to  the  water 
I  was  not  able  to  inspect  the  levels,  which  are  40 
fathoms  in  depth. 

Within  a  radius  of  a  league  round  the  Tio  mine  there 
are  many  veins — some  of  them  of  importance — consist- 


294 

ing  of  silicates,  and  carbonates  witli  exides  of  copper. 
The  Central  Argentine  Railway  will  immensely  facilitate 
and  cheapen  transport,  and  under  this  stimulus  these 
lodes  (oO  in  number)  are  certain  to  be  eventually 
worked  to  a  good  profit ;  meantime  they  are  commer- 
cially worthless. 

The  smelting  works  for  reduction  of  copper  ores  are 
located  close  to  the  shaft  of  the  Tauro  mine,  and  at  a 
distance  of  12  leagues  from  the  capital.  They  consist 
of  a  reverb eratory  furnace,  which  is  well  constructed 
with  English  fire-bricks.  The  establishment  belongs  to 
to  Mr  .Samuel  Lafone ;  but  smelting  operations  were  sus- 
pended in  1859,  owing  to  the  lawsuit  and  embargo  above 
referred  to ;  and,  though  the  questions  at  issue  have 
been  settled,  operations  have  not  since  been  resumed. 

The  situation  is  very  favourable,  with  plenty  of 
water,  pasture,  and  firewood  in  the  neighbourhood. 
There  are  also  good  dwelling  houses.  Mr.  Lafone  has 
expended  on  these  reduction  works,  and  on  the  Tio  and 
Tauro  mines,  about  £25,000. 

COAL  DEPOSITS. 

I  cannot  assert  that,  up  to  the  present,  coal  has  been 
found  in  Cordoba,  but,  from  the  data  m  my  possession, 
I  have  no  hesitation  whatever  in  expressing  the  con- 
viction that  it  will  be  discovered  in  the  northern  and 
western  districts  of  the  province.  I  believe  that  the 
same  sandstone  schistose  formation,  encountered  in 
Los  Llanos  (Rioja),  extends  to  the  points  indicated,  and 
from  specimens  I  have  seen  obtained  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  the  city  of  Cordoba  itself,  I  am  disposed  to 
conclude  that  the  existence  of  coal  is  less  doubtful  than 
has  hitherto  been  supposed. 


295 

In  any  case  a  matter  of  such  importance  merits  the 
serious  attention  of  the  National  Government,  and  an 
appropriation  of  £4,000  or  £5,000  for  thoroughly  ex- 
ploring and  examining  the  parts  pointed  out  in  my 
report  on  the  provinces  of  San  Juan  and  Rioja  would- 
be  a  most  useful  expenditure  and  likely  eventually  to 
prove  exceedingly  advantageous  to  the  revenues  of  the 
country. 

Thirty  leagues  north  of  the  city,  I  have  found  the 
sandstone  formation  identical  almost  with  that  of  San 
Juan,  and  from  this  and  other  appearances  and  data  I 
am  of  opmion  that,  at  a  depth  of  300  to  400  feet,  beds 
of  excellent  coal  will  be  discovered. 

The  province  of  Cordoba  is  by  nature  fairly  provided 
with  carriage  roads,  owing  to  its  physical  advantages 
and  the  even  character  of  its  plains.  It  is  only  in  the 
Sierra  that  these  are  needed,  and  the  one  now  being 
made,  passing  through  Soto,  in  the  direction  of  San  Juan, 
will  materially  aid  in  developing  the  mining  industry 
of  the  province.  A  good  carriage  road  is,  how- 
ever, necessary  from  Soto  to  the  mineral  districts,  and 
will,  I  believe,  be  made  by  the  local  Government. 
The  greater  part  is  already  constructed,  and  for  about 
£400  to  £500  it  might  be  carried  to  Taninga  and 
Pocho. 

With  respect  to  mule  tracks,  it  would  be  very 
advantageous  to  improve  that  crossing  the  Sierra  from 
San  Roque  to  Ojo  de  Agua,  and  afterwards  that 
descending  from  the  Cuesta  de  Pind  to  the  plains  of 
Los  Llanos.  The  latter  is  much  frequented,  and 
passes  through  some  rather  important  centres  of  popu- 
lation. An  excellent  road  for  pack  mules  might  be 
constructed  for  about  £850. 


296 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


It  will  be  seen  by  the  preceding  table,  or  general  sum- 
mary, that  mining  industry  in  the  Argentine  Republic 
is  by  no  means  so  insignificant  as  has  been  hitherto  be- 
lieved. It  is  now  an  indisputable  fact  that  mineral 
riches  exist  in  the  country,  and  whose  extent  cannot  be 
excelled  by  those  of  any  other  in  South  America.  Up 
to  the  present  the  Republic  has  been  thought  to  pos- 
sess no  other  wealth  than  that  represented  by  its  cattle, 
its  sheep,  its  wools,  and  its  hides.  This  is  a  great 
mistake,  for  those  products,  however  valuable  and  abun- 
dant they  may  be,  can  never  form  the  sole  basis  of  per- 
manent and  enduring  prosperity.  They  cannot  advan- 
tageously pass  certain  limits  of  production;  because, 
when  this  takes  place,  the  foreign  buyers,  and  even 
consumers  in  the  country  itself,  will  decline  to  pay  such 
prices  as  would  leave  a  profitable  result  to  the  producer. 
On  the  other  hand,  wages  and  other  necessary  expenses 
are  greatly  increased,  causing  a  still  further  reduction 
in  the  profits  of  producers.  This  has  actually  happened 
as  respects  wool-growing,  and  at  this  very  moment  we 
are  experiencing  the  natural  results  of   costly  over- 


297 

production  and  diminished  value  of  the  article  produced. 
A  continuance  of  this  must  soon  bring  about  a  crisis, 
and  ruin  an  industry  on  whose  prosperity  the  country  is, 
under  existing  circumstances,  almost  wholly  dependent. 

Economists  have  always  pointed  out  the  danger  of 
allowing  the  resources  of  a  nation  to  depend  upon  a 
single  article  of  production,  or  a  single  branch  of 
industry,  however  lucrative  or  profitable.  It  is  there- 
fore our  duty  to  seek  other  occupations,  other  articles  of 
production,  and  to  have  in  view  other  resources  for  the 
future,  whose  value  exported  may  at  least  equal  that  of 
our  imports,  which,  during  the  past  year  (1867),  alarm- 
ingly exceeded  the  value  of  our  principal  exports. 

I  now  refer  solely  to  the  products  of  the  Littoral,  or 
riverine  provinces,  which  alone  are  exportable^  or  realizable 
in  foreign  markets.  The  immense  agricultural  capabili- 
ties of  the  interior  provinces,  it  must  be  understood,  are 
as  yet  compulsorily  limited  to  the  supply  of  local  wants, 
whilst  the  abundant  produce  of  the  soil  is  almost  value- 
less for  export,  owing  to  the  onerous  charges  at  present 
incurred  for  its  transport  to  the  coast.  But  how  valuable 
and  important  would  that  produce  become  if  only  a  ready 
market  were  created  and  made  available  for  its  local 
consumption  ? 

It  is  to  be  hoped,  and  I  firmly  believe,  that  the  next 
generation  will  be  able  to  give  a  satisfactory  solution  to 
this  question.  Those  great  civilizers — railways,  roads, 
and  schools, — are  already  being  rapidly  and  energeti- 
cally extended  to  the  very  confines  of  the  Republic, 
whilst  the  wild  gaucho  of  the  pampa  and  the  untutored 
savao:e  will  soon  awaken  to  the  fact  that  their  rule  is  at 
an  end,  and  that  barbarism  must  succumb  before  the 
onward  march  of  progress. 

2  M 


298 

These  convictions  are  not  the  offspring  of  momentary 
enthusiasm;  they  are  based  on  substantial  facts,  and 
strengthened  by  the  brilliant  example  which  has  been 
presented  to  us  by  our  great  model,  the  United  States  of 
North  America.  The  Argentine  Confederation  to-day  is 
precisely  in  the  same  economic  position  as  California, 
Nevada,  Arizona,  and  Colorado,  the  Western  Pacific 
States,  in  the  year  1850.  These  States  occupy  an  area 
of  903,019  square  miles  of  territory,  with  a  population 
of  780,000  souls,  or  less  than  one  to  every  square  mile. 
Of  this  population  only  52,000  are  exclusively  employed 
in  mining  operations,  and  it  is  their  labour  and  energy 
which  impart  commercial  vitality  to  the  whole ;  for  it 
cannot  be  denied  that  California  is  purely  a  mining 
country,  and  that  its  great  progress  and  importance  are 
due  to  the  development  of  its  mineral  wealth. 

In  the  year  1867  California  produced  gold  and  silver 
bullion  to  the  value  of  £15,000,000,  the  very  existence 
of  which  in  that  territory  was  nineteen  years  ago  quite 
unknown  to  the  civilized  world.  How  gratifying  this 
result  must  be  to  the  people  of  the  United  States, 
where  mining  industry  is  protected  and  fostered  by  the 
General  Government  as  a  source  of  inexhaustible 
wealth,  and  above  all  as  a  material  guarantee  for  the 
maintenance  of  peace  and  the  continuance  of  national 
prosperity. 

I  have  now  before  me  a  most  valuable  work, — the 
voluminous  report  presented  to  the  Government  of 
Washington  by  Mr.  Ross  Browne  on  the  mineral 
resources  of  the  States  situate  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  printed  by  order  of  Congress.  It  is  the 
result  of  many  years  of  labour,  and  contains  the  accumu- 
lated information  of  numerous  scientific  men,  thoroughly 


299 

competent  to  furnish  reliable  details  on  the  subject 
matter  of  the  report,  the  data  of  which  have  been  most 
carefully  revised  and  corrected  by  Mr.  Browne.  In 
the  United  States  they  have  an  advantage  which  we 
in  the  Argentine  Republic  do  not  possess — a  skilled  and 
commercial  mining  population,  accustomed  to  keep 
books  and  accounts  showing  their  expenditure,  receipts, 
and  produce.  It  is  therefore  an  easy  matter  to  collect 
data  there,  whereas  here  not  one  miner  in  a  hundred 
preserves  any  record  whatever  of  either  the  disburse- 
ments or  produce  of  their  mines. 

It  would  occupy  too  much  space  to  extract  for  intro- 
duction in  these  pages  even  a  tenth  part  of  Mr. 
Browne's  remarks  with  regard  to  the  high  importance 
and  civilizing  influences  of  mining  industry  in  Cali- 
fornia ;  but  I  cannot  refrain  from  quoting  the  following 
paragraphs,  extracted  from  the  general  observations  at 
the  end  of  his  work  : — 

"Within  the  brief  space  of  nineteen  years  our  people 
have  opened  up  for  settlement  a  larger  area  of  territory, 
valuable  as  a  source  of  supply  for  nearly  all  the  neces- 
sities of  man,  than  has  ever  before  in  the  world's 
history  been  brought  within  the  limits  of  civilization  in 
so  short  a  time.  Nineteen  years  ago  California, 
Arizona,  Colorado,  Montana,  Idaho,  and  Nevada, 
occupying  more  than  one-third  of  the  entire  area  of  the 
United  States,  were  regions  chiefly  known  to  trappers 
and  traders,  traversed  and  occupied  for  the  most  part 
by  barbarous  hordes  of  Indians.  That  this  extraordi- 
nary advance,  with  all  its  concomitant  results  to  the 
trade  and  commerce  of  the  world,  has  been  achieved  by 
the  discovery  and  development  of  our  mineral  re- 
sources, no  reasonable  man  pretends  to  dispute.    Every 


300 

day's  progress  in  our  history  speaks  for  itself  and  the 
facts  are  patent  to  all. 

"  It  seems  a  little  singular,  on  considering  the  millions 
of  treasure  thus  added  to  our  national  wealth,  the  vast 
range  of  industry  opened  to  our  people,  the  wonderful 
impulse  given  to  agriculture,  commerce,  and  manu- 
factures, that,  of  all  our  great  national  interests,  the 
business  of  mining  has  had  the  hardest  struggle  to 
enlist  the  favourable  consideration  of  our  Government. 
Of  late  years,  through  the  irresistable  logic  of  results, 
something  has  been  achieved  in  the  way  of  more  intel- 
lio-ent  federal  leoislation. 

"If  we  take  mining  only  in  its  past  condition  and  its 
present  transition  state  we  must  admit  that,  with  all 
its  evil  effects  upon  mdividuals,  it  has  caused  most  im- 
portant general  benefits,  especially  in  anticipating  by 
generations  the  peopling  of  the  immense  territories  of 
the  west,  and  thus  widening  the  field  for  the  display  of 
national  energies,  broadening  the  spirit  and  firmly 
bracing  the  national  credit.  But  for  the  mining  furor 
of  the  last  nineteen  years  California  would  probably 
have  remained  a  vast  cattle  range  to  this  day,  and  all 
the  great  territories  adjoining  it,  now  peopling  with 
civilized  communities  and  nearly  traversed  by  a  railroad 
uniting  both  shores  of  the  continent,  would  still  be 
savage  wastes,  held  and  controlled  by  barbarians,  who 
are  fast  retiring  before  the  forces  of  modern  progress. 

"  The  direct  effect  of  mining  upon  agriculture  and 
commerce  is  strikingly  shown  in  California.  How 
much  wheat  would  now  be  exported  from  San  Fran- 
cisco but  for  the  mines  and  the  population  attracted 
by  them ;  how  many  interior  towns  would  have  been 
built;  how  far  would  the  Pacific  railroad  have  been 


301 

constructed ;  where  would  have  been  the  overland  mail, 
the  telegraph,  and  the  China  steamship  line,  but  for  the 
necessities  created  by  the  development  of  our  mineral 
wealth  ?  The  mines  have  not  only  led  to  those  things, 
but  they  have  built  up  a  great  manufacturing  interest, 
which  already,  in  San  Francisco  alone,  estimates  its 
annual  product  by  a  figure  nearly  as  high  as  that  of  the 
gold  fields." 

The  importance  of  mining  as  a  populating  and  civi- 
lizing agent  will  be  apparent  from  the  above  extract. 
Our  country  to-day  is  in  the  same  position  as  California 
twenty    years    ago;   and  why   may   we    not    entertain 
the  hope  of  making  similar  progress  within  the  next 
twenty  years?     We  have  thousands  of  leagues  of  moun- 
tains, more   metalliferous  than  those  of  California,  as  is 
proved  by  the  riches  of  Copiap6,  Potosi,  and  Famatina. 
We  have  immense  territories,  only  awaiting  colonization 
and  cultivation,  infinitely  more  fertile  and  productive 
than  those  of  North  America.    We  have  the  staples  and 
basis   of  many   manufactures,   which  might    soon  be- 
come of  vast  importance  and  a  source  of  great  profit 
to  the  country,   but  which  are  yet  lying  useless  and 
devoid  of  commercial  value.      We  have  wool  for  the 
manufacture  of  cloths;  hides  for  the   manufacture   of 
leather  of  almost  every  description ;  indigenous  indigo, 
equal  in  quality  to  the  best  Guatemala,  and  growing  in 
a  wild  state,  covering  large  tracts  of  territory  in  the  fer- 
tile province  of  Santiago  del  Estero;  the  sugar  cane  for 
the  manufacture  of  sugar ;  as  well  as  rice  and  tobacco  in 
Tucuman  and  coff"ee  in  Salta  and  Jujuy.       The   fines 
timber  exists  in  the  country,  the  value  of  which  would 
be  incalculable   had  we  but  facile  and  economic  mean 
of  transport.     Having  all  these  advantages,  what  then 


302 

is  needed  to  secure  their  profitable  utilization?  Peace 
and  tranquillity,  with  rulers  and  men  possessing  skill  and 
energy, — railways  to  traverse  our  vast  deserts,  but 
neither  so  broad  nor  so  difficult  as  those  of  California, 
and,  above  all,  a  foreign  immigration  of  industrious 
labourers,  the  scions  of  a  vigorous  race,  and  capable  of 
successfully  contending  with  the  difficulties  and  draw- 
backs of  a  comparatively  new  and  unknown  country. 

In  many  parts  of  the  Republic, — more  especially  in 
Rioja  and  Catamarca — the  want  of  water  is  greatly  felt 
in  the  travesias  or  deserts ;  but  this  evil  is  not  without 
a  remedy.  Artesian  wells  should  be  sunk  in  those 
places.  A  Government  engineer,  I  understand,  has 
stated  that  such  wells  would  be  useless,  since  there 
exists  no  surface  current  of  water ;  but  this  theory  is 
quite  untenable  in  presence  of  facts  and  in  view  of  the 
geological  formation  of  the  country.  In  the  Llanos  of 
Rioja,  as  well  as  in  Catamarca  and  San  Juan,  all  the 
probabilities  are  in  favour  of  finding  good  water  in 
reaching  the  igneous  rocks.  These  works  would  serve 
a  double  purpose :  they  would  solve  the  problem  of  the 
existence  of  coal  in  those  places  where  its  presence  is  so 
strikingly  indicated,  while  giving  water  to  a  large  ex- 
tent of  territory  at  present  desert  and  intransitable  for 
want  of  this  essential  element.  The  Central  Argentine 
Railway  will  soon  be  prolonged  towards  the  north,  and 
it  is  necessary  that  the  Government  should  adopt  such 
measures  as  will  promote  and  advance  its  civilizing  in- 
fluence. 

I  am  glad  now  to  be  in  a  position  to  state  that  a 
numerous  immigration  is  being  daily  attracted  to  the 
shores  of  the  River  Plate,  and  that  men  of  powerful 
position  and  influence  in  Europe  are   using  their  best 


303 

eiForts  to  promote  a  continuance  of  this  beneficial  and 
enriching  current. 

I  have  not  referred  at  any  length  in  the  foregoing 
pages  to  the  great  advantages  offered  by  the  province  of 
Santa  Fe  as  a  field  for  immigration,  and  I  cannot  close 
this  work  without  calling* special  attention  to  that  rich 
and  important  agricultural  province. 

As  stated  in  the  introductory  remarks,  the  well-known 
house  of  Messrs.  Thomson,  Bonar  and  Co.,  of  London, 
have  acquired  a  large  tract  of  land  in  that  province,  and 
I  cannot  do  better  than  insert  here  my  oflicial  reply  to 
their  questions  concerning  the  Argentine  Republic,  and 
especially  the  province  of  Santa  Fe,  in  reference  to  the 
intended,  colonization  of  their  lands.  In  this  note  will 
be  found  important  details,  which  will  serve  as  a  guide 
to  intending  emigrants,  and  others  who  may  be  desirous 
of  going  to  the  River  Plate : — 

PROVINCE  OF  SANTA  FE  AS  A  FIELD  FOR  IMMIGRATION 

AND  COLONIZATION. 

Consulate  General  of  the  Argentine  Republic, 

London,  February  ^Et/t,  1870. 

To  Messrs.  J.  Thomson,  T.  Bonar  and  Co., 
Old  Broad  Street,  E.C. 

Gentlemen, 

In  reference  to  our  conversation  on  colonization  in 
the  Argentine  Republic,  I  have  much  pleasure  in 
giving  you  all  the  information  in  my  possession  concern- 
ing that  country.  In  doing  this  ofiicially,  I  shall  be 
only  complying  with  the  instructions  received  from  his 
Excellency  the  President,  who  has  honoured  me  with 
a  special  mission  from  his  Government  to  Europe,  with 
the  view,  amongst  others,  of  making  known  more  gene- 


304 

rally  the  advantages  which  the  Argentine  Republic 
possesses  for  a  foreign  immigration,  and  the  vast  field 
for  enterprise  open  there  for  development. 

A  residence  of  over  twelve  years  in  South  America, 
eight  of  which  I  have  spent  in  the  Argentine  Repubhc, 
holding  a  high  official  position,  enables  me  to  speak 
with  authority  on  all  matters  connected  with  that 
country. 

Without  further  preface,  I  will  proceed  to  reply 
to  the  various  questions  and  points  which  you  were 
good  enough  to  submit  for  my  consideration  and  reply, 
bearing  in  mind,  however,  that  my  observations  will 
only  apply  to  that  part  of  the  territory  proposed  to  be 
colonized  by  your  house,  adding  a  few  general  remarks 
on  the  country,  its  Government,  and  its  people. 

Climate. — There  is  probably  no  country  on  the  face 
of  the  earth  so  favoured  by  nature.  It  is  so  entirely 
situated  in  the  south  temperate  zone,  which  enjoys, 
perhaps,  the  healthiest  climate  on  the  globe,  and 
the  soil  is  so  varied  and  fertile,  that  it  produces,  with 
ordinary  care,  nearly  all  the  great  staple  commodities 
of  home  consumption  and  foreign  commerce.  Meteoro 
logical  observations  taken  at  Buenos  Ayres,  the  capital, 
gave  the  following  average  temperature  for  the  year : — 

20  days  (very  cold)  45    to    55     degrees  Fah. 
182    „      (moderate)  55     ,,75         „  „ 

60  „  (warm)     75     „    88         „  „ 

45  ,,  (hot)       80     „    85 

58  „  (intensely  hot)  85     ,,105         „  „ 


365 
The  temperature  in  that  part  of  the  province  of  Santa 

Fe  where  your  land  is  situate,  being  about  four  degrees 

further  north,  is  of  course  somewhat  warmer ;  that  is  to 


305 

say,  the  proportion  of  hot  weather  is  greater,  and  the 
thermometer  rarely  falls  below  freezing  point.  In 
point  of  salubrity  I  consider  the  site  of  the  proposed 
colony  to  be  superior  to  Buenos  Ayres. 

Soil. — The  general  character  of  the  surface  soil  is 
that  of  a  rich  black  vegetable  earth,  averaging  in  some 
places  from  three  to  five  feet  in  depth,  resting  on  a  sub- 
stratum of  yellowish  clay,  forming  the  great  alluvial  de- 
posit of  the  pampas,  whose  depth  in  some  parts  is  over 
one  hundred  feet ;  this  is  excellent  for  making  bricks. 
The  surface  soil  is  so  rich  that  any  crop  can  be  pro- 
duced without  the  aid  of  manure,  and  this  I  have  no 
doubt  will  continue  to  be  the  case  for  many  years. 

Products. — Cereals. — One  crop  of  maize  or  Indian 
corn  and  one  of  wheat  can  be  raised  annually;  the 
sowing  time  for  wheat  is  April  to  September,  for  maize 
from  September  to  January.  Wheat  is  reaped  in  De- 
cember and  January,  and  maize  in  April  and  May ;  in 
bad  seasons  wheat  yields  about  thirteen  bushels  to  the 
acre,  in  good  seasons  about  thirty;  maize  averages  all 
round  about  one  hundred  bushels  to  the  acre,  and  re- 
quires about  one  bushel  of  seed  to  seven  acres ;  these 
remarks  apply  generally  to  barley.  Besides  the  above, 
rice,  mandioca,  sugar,  cotton,  tobacco,  coffee,  and  flax 
of  every  kind  may  be  easily  cultivated  of  a  superior 
quality.  Vegetables  will  grow  with  scarcely  any 
exception,  with  ordinary  care  and  skill;  potatoes 
especially  are  very  fine  and  in  great  abundance. 

Fruits. — Pears,  apricots,  peaches,  nectarines,  oranges, 
and  lemons  grow  in  great  abundance;  likewise  melons, 
water  melons,  pumpkins,  and  grapes. 

Grazing. — Various  classes  of  grass  abound  admirably 
suited  for  horned  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep.     It  is  said 

2   N 


306 

that  one  acre  will  maintain  at  the  rate  of  two  to  four 
sheep  annually  with  every  success.  In  addition  to  the 
natural  pasture,  alfalfa,  or  lucerne,  will  grow  most 
abundantly,  requiring  no  further  labour  when  once 
sown  than  irrigation  by  water  from  the  rivers  adjoining, 
and  a  field  of  this  fattening  pasture  will  last  for  many 
years,  if  eaten  down  regularly  and  allowed  to  flourish 
afresh  by  irrigation. 

Timber. — Abundance  of  excellent  timber  for  building 
purposes  and  fuel  exists  on  the  lands  and  adjoining  ter- 
ritories, where  colonists  exercise  the  right  of  feeding  so 
long  as  it  remains  Fiscal  or  Government  property. 
The  principal  and  most  durable  of  the  timber  is  the 
"  algarrobo,"  which  is  almost  imperishable  in  the  ground 
or  under  water ;  this  is  a  species  of  mahogany  and  makes 
excellent  furniture.  The  "  fiandubay  "  is  of  a  similar 
class  as  regards  durability  and  usefulness. 

Game. — Game  is  in  abundance,  and  fish  in  almost 
fabulous  quantities;  the  former  consists  of  large  and 
small  deer,  "  carpinchos,"  or  species  of  water  pig, 
armadillos,  ducks,  snipe,  geese,  wild  swans,  wild 
turkeys,  partridges,  large  and  small  moor-fowl,  besides 
a  sprinkling  of  foxes  and  wild  hogs,  and  vast  numbers 
of  the  American  ostrich.  In  the  woods  and  away  from 
the  inhabited  parts  the  jaguar  is  occasionally  met  with. 
Reptiles  and  vermin  are  no  more  numerous  or  ob- 
noxious than  in  many  parts  of  Europe. 

Cattle. — Bullocks  and  cows  can  be  bought  for  fat- 
tenins:  on  waste  lands  at  from  13s.  6d.  to  25s.  each,  the 
latter  in  good  condition  and  fit  for  slaughter;  sheep, 
3s.  4d.  to  6s.  each;  horses  from  £1  to  £3  each;  milch 
cows,  from  £2  each;  team  of  bullocks  broken  for  the 
plough,  £10.     The  class  of  animals  here  quoted    are 


307 

obtainable  in  large  numbers  all  through  the  inhabited 
districts  of  the  province. 

Water. — In  addition  to  the  unlimited  supply  obtain- 
able from  the  rivers,  by  using  Norton's  Abyssinian 
pump  on  almost  any  part  of  the  lands,  a  sufficient  sup- 
ply may  be  obtained  for  domestic  uses.  If  larger 
quantities  be  required  proportionately  powerful  pump- 
ing apparatus  can  be  used. 

Communication  and  Roads. — Although  the  country 
offers  every  fac'li^^y  for  road  traffic,  I  would  recommend 
the  adoption  of  small  steamers  and  boats,  or  launches, 
to  ply  between  the  capital,  Santa  Fe,  and  the  colony. 
The  San  Javier  rive:-  is  navigable  for  steamers  far  above 
the  colony.  The  Saladillo  "Dulce"  and  "  Armargo" 
are,  I  believe,  navigable  for  small  craft.  This  being 
the  case,  uninterrupted  communication  can  be  had  with 
nearly  all  the  farms  in  the  colony.  From  Buenos  Ayres 
to  Santa  Fe  there  is  a  by-weekly  communication,  and 
from  Santa  Fe  to  San  Javier  (close  to  the  colony)  a 
weekly  communication  by  regular  steamer  subsidised 
recently  by  the  National  Government  Gommunication 
between  Europe  and  Buenos  Ayres  is  now  almost 
weekly. 

Markets  for  Produce  and  Prices. — According  to  the 
data  in  my  possession  the  following  may  be  set  down  as 
the  average  prices  obtainable  for  produce  at  Santa  Fe, 
Parana,  Goya,  La  Paz,  &c. : — On  the  river  Parana, 
wheat  from  6s.  to  8s.  per  bushel ;  in  the  colony  perha^^js 
5s.  may  be  realised.  Maize  3s.  to  4s.  per  bushel ;  2s.  may 
be  realised  in  the  colony.  Potatoes  about  10s.  per  cwt. 
It  is  quite  possible  that  at  harvest  time  purchasers  of 
produce  will  wait  upon  the  colonists  and  buy  on  the 


308 

spot,  thereby  saving  them  the  trouble  and  expense  of 
sending  to  market. 

Provisions. — Flour,  placed  in  the  colony,  imported 
from  Rosario,  will  cost  from  25s.  to  30s.  per  100  lbs.; 
tea,  4s.  to  6s.  per  lb. ;  sugar,  2d.  to  4d.  per  lb. ;  rice,  4d. 
per  lb. ;  beef,  Id.  to  2d.  per  lb. 

Capital  required  hy  Emigrants. — For  the  first  families 
who  might  be  sent  to  the  colony  as  pioneers,  I  would 
not  recommend  them  to  be  provided  with  less  capital 
than,  say,  £300  to  £500  each  family  of  four  persons,  which 
would  be  ample  for  all  disbursements  (including  pur- 
chase of  farm  of  100  acres)  until  returns  through  pro- 
duce would  be  obtained.  The  following  tabular  state- 
ment will  not,  I  think,  be  far  out,  and  may  be  a  better 
Ifuide  to  intendino;  emio;rants  : — 

G  ^  CD 

Passage  per  steamer,  with  rations,  &c.,  for  a 

family  of  four  persons,  say ^55  o  o 

Outfit,  say  40  o  o 

Tools,  say  10  o  o 

On  anival  at  the  colony  the  following  disburse- 
ments may  be  calculated  upon  : — 

Temporary  house,  say  25  o  o 

Two  horses,  at  ;^3  each  6  o  o 

Four  bullocks  and  cows  at  ;^2  5s.  each 900 

Two  milch  cows  at  ^2  2s 4  4  o 

Twenty-five  sheep  at  5s.  each  6  5  o 

Two  teams  bullocks  for  ploughing,  at  p£"io 20  o  o 

Pigs,  poultry,  &c 7  o  ° 

Implements,  carts,  &c 75  o  o 

living  and  clothing  expenses  100  o  o 

Purchase  money  for  farm 25  o  o 

Total    ;^382     9     o 

Produce. — I  consider  that  a  family  of  four  persons 
should  get  under  cultivation  about  50  acres  of  wheat 


309 

land  in  the  first  year,  and  this,  as  near  as  1  can  judge, 
ought  to  produce  as  follows  : — 

For  first  year,  at  the  rate  of  1 5  bushels  per 

acre,  at  5/- per  bushel ^187   10     o 

Indian  corn,  to  be  sown  after  wheat  in  second 
six  months,  will  produce,  say,  75  bushels 
to  acre,  at  2/- 375     o     ^ 

Total     ^^562   10     o 

From  the  foregoing  it  will  be  seen  that  the  outlay  for 
the  first  year,  allowing  an  ample  margin,  is  £382  9s. 
and  the  produce,  estimated  at  a  very  low  figure,  will 
realise  £562  10s.,  leaving  a  balance  profit  of  £180  Is., 
or  at  the  rate  of  about  47  per  cent,  per  annum  on 
capital. 

Class  of  people  who  should  go  out. — It  will  be  necessary 
to  exercise  much  care  in  the  selection  of  the  first  emi- 
grants to  be  sent  out.      I  would  strongly  recommend 
that  the  first  150  should  be  of  the  agricultural  class,  of 
steady,  sober,  and  industrious   habits,  possessing  testi- 
monials from  the  clergyman  of  their  district,  and  having 
at  their  disposal  sufficient  means  to  enable  them  to  get 
through  the  first  year  in  the  colony.    Married  men,  with 
a  family  of  two  or  three  grown  up  children  would  be 
the  most  desirable;  but  I  would  also  recommend  that 
four  young  men  should  be  considered  as  a  family,  and, 
working  together,  receive  the  same  privileges  as  the 
married  men.      A  fair  proportion  of  artizans,  such  as 
carpenters,  blacksmiths,   bricklayers,   shoemakers,  and 
tailors,  in  the  ratio  of  5  to  7  per  cent.,  should  accompany 
each  batch  of  the  agricultural  class.      These  artizans 
should  possess  similar  recommendations,  and  may  not 
necessarily  be  of  the   higher  branches   of  their  trade. 
In  the  appendix  to  this  note  you  will  find  a  tariff  of 


310 

wages  for  these,  as  set  down  by  the  Immigration  Com- 
mittee appointed  by  the  National  Government  at  Buenos 
Ayres,  which  is  more  or  less  correct.  Later  on — when 
the  colony  becomes  more  populated,  and  if  the  proprie- 
tors of  the  farms  should  require  it, — I  would  recom- 
mend to  be  sent  out  a  batch  of  agricultural  labourers, 
to  be  distributed  amongst  them,  they  reimbursing  to 
you  the  cost  of  their  passage,  which  might  be  deducted 
by  instalments  from  their  wages. 

Agricultural  Implements. — Although  these  may  be  had 
at  Buenos  Ayres  and  Rosario,  it  might  be  well  for  the 
emigrants  to  take  out  a  supply  of  ploughs,  harrows, 
cultivators,  hoes,  chains,  cordage,  and  a  box  of  rough 
carpenter's  tools.  I  will,  however,  defer  entering  into 
details  on  this  subject  until  my  arrival  out,  and  a  care- 
ful inspection  of  the  Californian  colony  adjoining  your 
land,  where,  up  to  the  present,  the  greatest  success  has 
been  achieved.  From  their  practical  experience  we 
shall  be  enabled  to  determine  more  safely  and  definitely 
the  requirements  of  emigrants  under  this  head.  I  am, 
however,  of  opinion  that  the  sums  set  down  under  the 
head  of  "  CajDital  required"  will  be  ample  for  the  outlay 
in  this  respect. 

Outfit.^  arms.,  ^'C. — I  would  recommend  each  emigrant 
to  take  a  fair  supply  of  woollen  clothing,  as  all  such 
articles  are  much  more  costly  out  there  and  less  suited 
to  rough  work.  These  should  be  of  two  classes — light 
for  summer  wear,  and  rather  heavier  for  winter ;  say, 
one  dozen  coloured  flannel  shirts,  fine ;  half-dozen  heavy 
blue  woollen  serge,  or  Guernseys,  as  worn  by  sailors ; 
two  monkey  jackets,  light  and  heavy  ;  four  pairs  trousers, 
two  light  Tweed  or  Indian  flannel,  and  two  of  strong 
Bedford  cord;  two  soft  felt  hats;  two  straw  ditto,  with  a 


311 

roll  of  strong  muslin  or  light  calico  wound  around  to 
keep  off  the  sun ;  two  pairs  of  strong  jack  boots,  to  come 
to  the  knees ;  two  of  light  laced  boots  (elastic  sides  should 
be  avoided,  as  the  climate  soon  renders  them  useless); 
one  dozen  pairs  of  merino  or  light  woollen  socks ;  a  strong 
waterproof  Mackintosh,  with  cap  and  leggings.  These 
being  the  only  necessary  articles  of  clothing,  I  do  not 
mention  others  of  a  finer  description  which  may  be  taken 
by  the  emigrants  according  to  their  means,  position,  and 
requirements.  Bedding : — Two  pairs  of  ordinary  heavy 
blankets;  two  waterproof  canvas  sheets  (lined  with 
India-rubber),  and  two  pairs  of  cotton  sheets;  a  curled 
hair  mattress,  to  fold  in  three,  with  pillows  to  suit ;  light 
iron  bedstead,  with  hoop-iron  slips.  Knives,  forks,  and 
spoons  to  suit  the  requirements  of  each ;  a  strong  waist 
belt,  with  pockets,  sheath  knife,  and  revolver.  A  saddle, 
bridle,  and  horse  gear  complete  will  be  very  essential. 
I  would  recommend  a  plain,  strong,  military  saddle, 
with  expanding  holsters,  and  small  valise  to  strap  on 
behind,  with  bridle  and  head-stall  in  one.  A  set  of 
culinary  utensils,  consisting  of  two  pots,  two  saucepans,  a 
frying  pan,  gridiron,  two  kettles,  teapot,  cups,  saucers, 
plates,  and  dishes  of  delf- lined  ironware.  A  supply  of 
stationery  to  suit  each  person's  wants  would  be  advisable ; 
thin  foreign  note  paper  is  the  best  for  correspondence. 
Strong  boxes  of  light  pine,  with  the  corners  bound  by 
iron  hoops  and  a  secure  lock.  A  supply  of  good  Ameri- 
can axes  for  felling  timber  would  be  essential ;  these  I 
indicate  specially  as  forming  extras  in  the  tool  chest 
already  recommended.  An  assorted  supply  offish  hooks 
and  lines,  with  nets,  for  fishing  in  the  numerous  streams 
and  rivers  close  by ;  an  eight-day  American  clock,  and, 
amongst  every  four  or  five  families,  a  serviceable  Aneroid 


312 

barometer,  very  useful  in  indicating  sudden  changes  of 
the  weather.  A  small  medicine  chest,  with  a  few  of  the 
principal  remedies  for  household  use,  such  as  citrate  of 
magnesia,  cream  of  tartar,  carbonate  of  soda,  tartaric 
acid,  epsom  salts,  senna,  castor  oil,  calomel,  tartar  emetic, 
jalap,  ipecacuana,  Rubini's  tincture  of  camphor,  sul- 
phate of  quinine,  and  such  others  as  each  emigrant  may 
desire  to  take.  These  should  be  accompanied  by  a  few 
ajDpliances  for  external  injuries,  such  as  lint,  oiled  silk, 
adhesive  plaister,  tincture  of  arnica,  friar's  balsam,  and 
simple  cerate.  For  those  who  prefer  the  homoepathic 
remedies,  I  would  recommend  them,  as  being  more  port- 
able and  efficacious  for  the  climate  and  requirements  of 
the  country.  My  own  experience  of  this  extends  over 
a  period  of  seven  years,  in  the  roughest  campaigning 
and  explorations,  and  I  have  found  them  fully  adequate 
to  all  the  requirements  of  such  an  eventful  life.  The 
strongest  tiyictures  should  be  taken. 

Houses  or  Dwellings. — These  may  be  erected  in  a  tem- 
porary manner  of  timber,  consisting  of  two  rooms,  each 
1 5  feet  square,  for  the  sum  estimated  in  outlay — say  £25. 
Of  "  adobes,"  or  sun-dried  bricks,  it  may  cost  a  little 
more.  For  a  permanent  house,  built  of  brick  and  lime, 
same  size,  say,  £250  to  £300,  but  this  latter  I  cannot  esti- 
mate correctlyjust  at  present,  and,  having  our  own  masons 
and  carpenters  sent  out  from  Europe,  I  have  no  doubt  it 
will  come  out  less.  I  shall  be  able  to  inform  you  more 
fully  on  this  on  my  arrival  out. 

Indians.- — In  a  correspondence  lately  published  in 
the  Field  newspaper,  it  was  stated  that  one  of  the 
greatest  objections  to  emigration  to  the  Argentine  Ee- 
public  was  the  exposed  state  of  the  frontier  lands,  and 
consequent   insecurity  for  life  and  property  owing  to 


813 

ludiaii  raids.  Those  statements  applied  generally  to 
the  frontiers  of  Cordoba  and  Santa  Fe,  distant  more 
than  three  hundred  miles  from  your  colony ;  but,  how- 
ever true  they  may  have  been  in  reference  to  a  period  of 
the  past,  and  I  admit  they  were  so,  happily  for  the 
interests  of  the  landed  proprietors  in  those  districts,  and 
thanks  to  the  advanced  and  energetic  system  of  govern- 
ment initiated  by  President  Sarmiento  and  his  Adminis- 
tration, that  terrible  bugbear  to  progress  and  civilisation 
has  now  almost  totally  disappeared.  The  conclusion 
of  the  Paraguayan  war  has  fortunately  enabled  the  Go- 
vernment to  direct  all  its  energies  in  the  War  Depart- 
ment towards  securing  immunity  to  settlers  on  the 
frontiers,  effectually  keeping  back  the  previously  too 
frequent  raids  of  the  savages  by  a  judicious  distribution 
of  Line  troops  and  National  Guards  all  over  the  country. 
More  than  2,000  men,  with  an  able  general  and  eficient 
officers,  have  within  the  last  year  extended  the  southern 
frontier  to  a  distance  of  100  miles  and  established  a  line 
of  forts  protected  by  natural  barriers  of  rivers  and 
lagoons.  The  effect  of  this  energetic  action  has  been  to 
bring  the  Indian  chiefs  to  the  feet  of  their  conquerors, 
suing  for  peace  and  a  cessation  of  hostilities,  and  giving 
hostages  to  the  Government  for  a  due  fulfilment  of  their 
treaty.  I  must  here  state  that  those  Indians  of  the 
south  are  a  hardy  and  warlike  race,  well  mounted  and 
armed,  having  the  advantage  of  an  almost  woodless,  un- 
interrupted, level  country,  favourable  either  for  their 
raids  or  escape,  whilst  those  onthe  northern  frontiers,  or 
contiguous  to  your  colony,  are  a  miserable,  degenerated 
tribe,  without  horses,  armed  only  with  spears  and  arrows, 
and  with  an  almost  impenetrable  forest  in  their  rear 
and  about  them.      They  are,  on  the  other  hand,  semi- 

2  o 


314 

civilised,  and  the  only  fear  to  be  entertained  regarding 
them  is  their  propensity  to  theft.  As  to  fighting,  I 
have  no  hesitation  in  asserting  that,  with  fifty  breach- 
loaders  in  the  hands  of  good  marksmen,  the  colony  would 
be  effectually  protected  from  any  marauding  visit  on 
their  part.  In  addition  to  this,  there  are  other  colonies, 
or  inhabited  places,  between  their  territory  and  your 
colony,  and  I  have  little  fear,  should  it  prove  necessary 
or  desirable,  of  obtaining  from  the  Minister  of  War  the 
extension  of  the  actual  frontier  and  its  reinforcement  by 
troops  of  the  Line,  in  sight  of  the  important  colony 
about  being  established  in  that  district. 

System  of  Government. — I  now  come  to  the  last  of 
your  questions,  and,  in  addition  to  various  extracts  from 
authentic  works  bearing  upon  the  country,  its  resources, 
and  government,  I  will  give  you,  in  as  few  words  as 
possible,  a  general  sketch  of  its  actual  state  and 
prospects. 

In  the  first  place,  the  Government  is  Republican, 
consisting  of  a  President,  elected  for  six  years,  and  a 
Federal  Congress  of  Senators  and  Deputies  for  three 
and  six  years — as  nearly  as  possible  identical  with  that 
of  the  United  States  of  North  America.  These  form 
what  is  called  the  National  Government,  which  repre- 
sents the  country  in  its  relations  with  foreign  Powers, 
collects  the  customs  dues  on  imports  and  exports,  ad- 
ministers the  postal  service,  attends  to  the  national 
debt,  has  complete  control  over  the  army  and  navy,  and 
undisputed  jurisdiction  on  the  rivers  and  sea  coasts.  In 
addition  to  this,  which  is  the  general  or  head  Govern- 
ment, the  Republic  is  divided  into  fourteen  distinct  and 
independent  provinces,  each  of  which  has  its  legisla- 
tive, executive,   and  judicial   authorities,  who,   within 


315 

their  respective  territories,  are  independent  of 
the  National  Government,  and  inviolable  in  their 
sovereignty  so  long  as  they  maintain  and  govern  in  ac- 
cordance Avith  the  original  constitution  of  the  Republic. 
And  it  is  only  in  cases  where,  by  violence  or  other 
unconstitutional  means,  the  duly  constituted  authorities 
of  the  provinces  are  deposed,  that  the  National  Govern- 
ment can  interfere  by  force  of  arms  or  otherwise  to 
reinstate  them,  and  then  only  at  their  specific  and 
official  request.  It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  the 
Argentine  Republic,  which  was  the  first  to  declare  itself 
independent  by  throwing  off  the  Spanish  yoke,  and 
the  medium  through  which  nearly  all  the  other  South 
American  Republics  followed  its  example,  is  the  only 
one  which,  from  its  foundation,  declared  by  its  constitu- 
tion absolute  freedom  of  religious  worship.  We  find 
now  flourishing,  at  Buenos  Ayres  and  other  parts  of  the 
country,  religious  institutions  and  churches  of  nearly 
all  persuasions.  This  in  itself  must  be  a  great  induce- 
ment to  foreigners  to  settle  in  the  country,  where  they 
can  have  clergymen  of  their  own  denomination  without 
interference  on  the  part  of  the  natives.  These,  though 
Roman  Catholics,  are  as  a  rule  most  tolerant  and 
free  from  bigotry.  Their  general  behaviour  and  con- 
duct towards  foreigners  is  most  corteous  and  polite,  and, 
after  a  residence  of  many  years  amongst  them,  it  is  only 
just  to  state  that  I  know  of  no  country  out  of  England 
more  agreeable  to  live  in. 

For  the  first  time  almost  since  the  independence  of 
the  country — now  nearly  half  a  century  back — it  enjoys 
the  blessings  of  peace,  with  a  progressive  and  enligh- 
tened Government,  selected  by  the  will  of  the  people ; 
for  his  Excellency,  President  Sarmiento,  was  selected 


816 

to  fill  this  high  post  during  his  absence  as  Minister  at 
Washington,  without  having  used  any  personal  influence 
to  procure  his  return  to  the  Presidential  chair.  He  has 
still  almost  five  years  of  office  before  him,  and  should 
he  employ  them  as  he  has  done  his  past  one  by  the 
initiation  of  railways,  telegraphs,  steam  navigation, 
mining  enterprise,  colonization,  and  other  industrial 
projects,  brilliant  hopes  may  be  indeed  entertained  of  a 
prosperous  future  and  a  peaceful  administration.  He 
has  travelled  so  much  in  Europe  and  the  United  States, 
studying  our  institutions  and  acquiring  our  language, 
that  his  appreciation  of  foreigners,  especially  American 
and  English,  is  the  surest  safeguard  and  guarantee  we 
can  have  for  the  lives  and  properties  of  colonists,  who 
of  themselves  tend  to  increase  the  prosperity  of  the 
country  by  populating  and  cultivating  its  almost  bound- 
less territory. 

Taxation. — To  foreigners,  especially  colonists,  this  is 
an  item  of  expenditure  so  trifling  and  unimportant  that 
it  scarcely  deserves  more  than  a  passing  remark. 
Foreigners,  not  colonists,  in  the  rural  districts  pay  only 
what  may  be  literally  translated  a  "property  tax" 
(coniribucion  directa)  of  4  per  1,000  on  the  capital 
invested  therein.  Colonists,  as  per  concession  from  the 
Government,  are  exempted  from  taxes  for  a  period  of 
ten  years,  after  which  they  will  of  course  be  obliged  to 
contribute  in  the  same  ratio  as  other  foreigners  not  of 
their  class.  In  the  cities  and  towns,  where  municipal 
authorities  are  established,  the  usual  lighting,  police,  and 
paving  taxes  are  payable  in  addition  to  those  already 
mentioned. 

In  conclusion,  I  have  only  to  remark  that  I  consider 
the  Argentine  Republic,  as  a  field  for  immigration,  in- 


317 

ferior  to  none  of  our  British  colonies,  and  fully  equal, 
if  not  superior,  to  the  United  States  or  California. 
To  this  latter  country  it  may  be  more  truthfully  com- 
pared, from  its  physical  conditions  and  geographical 
position,  the  salubrity  of  its  climate,  and  natural  pro- 
ductions. It  has,  however,  the  great  advantage  of  being 
so  much  nearer  to  Europe,  and  consequently  more 
accessible  to  the  agricultural  classes,  or  others  with 
small  means.  The  territory  is  so  extensive  and  so 
sparsely  populated  that  for  many  years  to  come  no  fear 
need  be  entertained  of  over-crowding  and  consequent 
depreciation  in  the  value  of  produce.  According  to  the 
last  census,  taken  in  the  year  1869,  I  find,  from  official 
data  before  me,  that  the  entire  population  of  the 
Republic  amounts  only  to  1,852,110,  including  50,000 
Indians,  which  the  Minister  of  War  sets  down  as  being 
distributed  as  follows : — In  the  Gran  Chaco,  or  terri- 
tory to  the  north  of  your  colony,  15,000 ;  on  the  Pampas 
south  and  west  of  Buenos  Ayres,  20,000;  Patagonia, 
south  of  Pampas,  15,000.  When  we  recollect  that  only 
this  million  and  three  quarters  of  souls  are  distributed 
over  a  superficial  area  of  1,281,000  geographical  miles 
(more  than  four  times  the  size  of  France)  it  may  be 
easily  conceived  what  a  great  want  and  necessity  it 
must  become  to  populate  it,  and  how  long  a  time  must 
elapse  before  a  sufficient  number  of  inhabitants  will  be 
there  to  develoj)  its  varied  and  almost  unlimited 
resources.  In  the  province  of  Buenos  Ayres  alone, 
more  than  150,000  foreigners  reside  now,  nearly  all 
of  whom  are  well  to  do,  or  at  least  make  a  far  better 
living  than  they  could  possibly  expect  to  do  in  the  too 
densely  populated  districts  of  the  Old  World.  For  us 
it  is  a  consolation  and  a  guarantee  to  know  that  more 


318 

than  40,000  British  subjects  are  already  settled  in  the 

country,  many  of  whom  have  already  achieved,  whilst 

others  have  laid  the  foundation  of  considerable  fortunes. 

On  my  arrival  out  at  the  colony,  and  after  a  careful 

exploration,  I  shall  have  much  pleasure  in  supplying  you 

with  more  detailed  and  local  information  concerning 

the  lands  and  prospects  for   emigrants.       Meanwhile, 

I  have  the  honour  to  remain.  Gentlemen, 

Your  very  obedient  Servant, 

F.  IGNACIO  RICKARD,  F.G.S.,  &c.. 

Government  Inspector  of  Mines, 
(In  Commission.) 


APPEN"DIX. 

The  following  information,  relating  to  the  country,  is 
published  for  the  use  of  emigrants,  by  the  Argentine 
Government,  and  largely  distributed  by  their  agents 
throuo-hout  Europe.  It  is  therefore  given  here  as 
official  and  authentic  merely  in  confirmation  of  the  fore- 
going statements  prepared  from  personal  experience  and 
knowledge  of  the  country  : — 

"  The  recommendations  of  the  Argentine  Republic  to 
Europeans  are  : — ■ 

"  1.  That  the  climate  is  as  healthy  and  as  favourable 
to  vigour  and  longevity  as  that  of  England,  or  any 
other  country  of  Europe. 

"  2.  That  its  cultivable  lands  are  practically  of  mi- 
limited  extent,  and  require  no  outlay  for  clearing. 

"3.  That  it  contains  already,  and  especially  at  Buenos 
Ayres,  the  capital,  a  large  and  prosperous  European 


319 

population,   composed     of    Italians,     French,    English, 
Scotch,  and  Irish,  Germans,  Portuguese,  and  others. 

"  4.  That  the  Government  is  solidly  established  and 
perfectly  liberal,  the  aim  of  all  parties  being  to  maintain 
the  financial  honour  of  the  country,  to  preserve  peace, 
and  to  promote  the  development  of  industry  and 
commerce. 

"  5.  That,  while  the  State  religion  is  Roman  Catholic, 
complete  toleration  is  upheld,  churches  of  all  denomina- 
tions being  established  at  Buenos  Ayres  and  other 
places,  where  a  considerable  portion  of  the  settlers  are 
English  or  German  Protestants  or  Scotch  Presby- 
terians. 

"6.  That  there  is  weekly  postal  communications  with 
England  and  the  Continent  by  powerful  mail  steamers 
from  Southampton,  London,  Liverpool,  Falmouth  and 
Bordeaux. 

"  7.  That  the  commercial  policy  of  the  country  is  in 
the  direction  of  free  trade. 

"8.  That  there  is  a  treaty  of  amity,  commerce,  and 
navigation  between  Great  Britain  and  the  Republic,  and 
that  foreigners  are  exempted  from  compulsory  military 
service  or  forced  loans. 

"9.  That  there  are  a  sufficient  number  of  British 
subjects  in  the  Republic  to  render  a  knowledge  of  the 
Spanish  language  non-essential  for  immigrants,  and 
that  this  language  is  capable,  during  a  short  residence, 
of  being  more  easily  acquired  than  any  other ;  likewise, 
that  an  English  daily  newspaper  is  published  at  Buenos 
Ayres,  and  that  there  is  an  influential  English  bank 
and  other  institutions. 

"10.  That  the  staple  productions  of  the  country  are 
such  as  at  all  times  command  the  markets  of  the  world, 


320 

the  principal  exports  being  tallow,  hides,  and  wool; 
while,  during  the  past  year,  a  trade  in  preserved  meat 
has  been  opened  up,  which  seems  to  promise,  if  suffi- 
cient attention  be  given  to  establish  a  scientific  process 
of  curing,  to  assume  proportions  as  sudden  and  pro- 
fitable as  those  of  the  newly-developed  petroleum  trade 
of  North  America ;  that  there  is  also  a  mining  district 
in  the  interior  provinces  on  the  slope  of  the  Andes, 
which  appears  from  the  operations  thus  far  conducted, 
to  be  one  of  the  richest  silver,  lead,  and  gold  regions 
yet  discovered. 

"11.  That  the  country  is  being  opened  up  in  all 
directions  by  English  Railway  enterprises,  one  of 
which,  the  Rosario  and  Cordoba  line,  will  be  247  miles 
in  length,  and  is  considered  to  be  ultimately  destined 
to  cross  the  entire  country  to  Chili,  and  thus  to  form  a 
highway  for  the  traffic  between  the  Atlantic  and  the 
Pacific. 

"  12.  That  the  acquisition  of  land  is  easy  and  its 
tenure  secure,  and  that  additional  and  extraordinary 
facilities  for  settlement  are  being  daily  ofi'ered  by  the 
Government  and  private  individuals  and  companies. 

"Finally,  it  is  to  be  observed  that  the  debt  of  the 
country,  foreign  and  internal,  the  interest  on  which  is 
paid  with  unfailing  punctuality,  is  comparatively  small ; 
that  it  is  gradually  in  course  of  extinction  by  a  large 
redeeming  fund,  and  that  the  Six  per  Cent.  Buenos 
Ayrian  Bonds  in  the  London  market  range  from  95  to 
100,  and  those  of  the  Republic  between  85  and  90; 
that  there  are  no  direct  taxes,  and  that  the  commerce 
of  the  country  is  increasing  with  such  rapidity  that  in 
the  Board  of  Trade  returns  of  British  exports  it  figures 
higher  on  the  list  than  Chili  or  Peru,  and  as  reo'ards 


321 

European  countries,  higher  than  Prussia,  Sweden, 
Norway,  Denmark,  and  many  others  with  which  we 
have  an  important  traffic. 

"  The  present  population  of  the  Argentine  Re2)ubhc 
is  but  about  2,000,000,  and  immigration  may  be  said  to 
be  its  only  want.  This  is  felt  and  acknowledged  by  all 
classes,  and  every  arrival  is  therefore  warmly  welcomed . 
The  tide  thither  is  gradually  increasing,  and  persons 
best  acquainted  with  the  country  express  a  conviction 
that  the  growth  of  Buenos  Ay  res,  which  at  present  is  a 
fine  city,  with  about  200,000  inhabitants,  will,  during 
the  next  twenty  years,  rival  that  which  has  been  wit- 
nessed at  New  York  during  the  like  period  m  the  past. 
In  several  cases  persons  of  moderate  capital  have 
emigrated  from  Australia  and  New  Zealand  to  the 
Argentine  Republic,  owing  to  the  advantages  of  its- 
greater  proximity  to  England  and  its  superior  facilities 
for  the  acquisition  of  land. 

By  far  the  greater  portion  of  the  country  consists  of 
rich  alluvial  plains,  constituting  what  are  called  the 
Pampas.  The  climate  is  subject  to  a  great  difference  of 
temperature  in  winter  and  summer,  but  the  changes 
are  gradual  and  regular.  The  winter  is  about  as  cold 
as  the  English  November,  with  white  frosts,  and  ice  at 
sunrise.  Taken  as  a  whole,  the  Pampas  ma}^  be  said  to 
enjoy  as  beautiful  and  as  salubrious  an  atmosphere  as 
the  most  healthy  parts  of  Greece  and  Italy,  and  with- 
out being  subject  to  malaria. 

"The  country  is  universally  celebrated  for  the 
abundance  of  its  cattle,  horses,  sheep,  goats,  asses, 
mules,  and  swine.  The  number  of  cattle  fifteen 
years  ago  was  estimated  at  12,000,000,  and  the 
horses,  mules,  and  asses  at  more  than  4,000,000,  and 


322 

they  are  supposed  since  that  period  to  have  largely  in- 
creased. 

"  The  salubrity  of  the  climate  seems  especially  bene- 
ficial to  immigrants  from  this  country,  its  influence 
being  singularly  restorative  wherever  there  is  a  ten- 
dency to  bronchia]  or  pulmonary  affections.  In  some 
districts,  such  as  that  of  the  beautiful  city  and  province 
of  Cordoba,  these  disorders  appear  to  be  almost  un- 
known, and  as  on  the  completion  of  the  Central  Argentine 
Railway  it  will  be  possible  to  reach  the  city  of  Cordoba 
from  London  in  little  more  than  a  month,  that  place 
may  probably  become  a  sanitarium  for  Europeans  in  a 
majority  of  the  most  important  cases  where  change  of 
climate  is  desirable. 

"  The  following  is  a  list  of  classes  of  immigrants  most 
required  in  Buenos  Ayres  : — 

MONTHLY  WAGES  WITH  BOARD. 

Gardeners    £z   15     o  to  ;^4   10     o 

Farm  Servants 2     5     o  to      300 

Home  Servants,  Men 2     5     o 

„             ,,         Women    2     o     oto      3     o     o 

Cooks,  Men    3     o     oto       3   15     o 

„        Women  2     5     o  to      300 

Boys,  from  10  to  15  years o  15     o  to       i     5     o 

Sempstresses  2   15     o 

Millmers 2   15     o 

Dressmakers   215     o 

Laundresses    2   16     o 

DAILY    WAGES    WITHOUT    BOARD. 

Bricklayers    6/- 

Joiners 6/6 

Blacksmiths 6/6 

Shoemakers  7/6 

Tailors  6/-  to  9/- 

Labourers 4/6 

Railway,  ditto  6/- 

Miners — 

Note. — Higher  wages  may  be  calculated  upon  in  the  interior  pro- 
vinces, and  artizans  of  superior  merit  will  always  obtain  more  than  is 
-quoted. 


323 

"  In  the  rural  establishments,  merely  situated  in  the 
suburbs  of  the  capital,  thousands  of  families  may  engage 
themselves  immediately. 

"  With  respect  to  those  immigrants  who  may  come 
to  establish  themselves  hi  the  flourishing  colonies  of 
Santa  Fe,l]aradero,  San  Jose,  or  others  actually  form- 
ing in  various  parts  of  the  Republic,  we  do  not  hesitate 
to  say  that,  owing  to  the  fertility  of  the  land,  they  ^\^ill 
rapidly  acquire  a  modest  fortune. 

"In summer,  farm  labourers  get  6s.  to  7s.  6d.  per  day. 
"  The  scarcity   of  domestic  servants  is  notorious— a 
preference  being  given  to  women. 

"  Sempstresses,  milliners,  dressmakers,  and  laundresses, 
however  numerous  the  arrivals,  are  certain  of  employ- 
ment. 

"  Artizans  of  all  descriptions,  and  immigrants,  even 
though  of  no  fixed  calling,  will  get  employment  to  their 
satisfaction  immediately  on  landing. 

"  The  railways  now  employ  a  large  staff,  but  some 
thousands  of  labourers  are  required  for  the  earthworks 
that  are  being  pushed  forward  with  the  greatest  activity. 
"  Immigrants — above  all  those  with  a  knowledge  of 
mhierals^will  find  very  lucrative  employment  m  the 
rich  and  numerous  mines  of  San  Juan,  Mendoza,  La 
Rioja,  Catamarca,  and  Cordoba,  which  are  now  being 
worked  with  the  most  satisfactory  results. 

"  A  fortnightly  journal,  called  The  Brazil  and  River 
Plate  Mail^  is  published  in  London  by  Messrs.  Bates, 
Hendy  and  Co.,  4,  Old  Jewry,  E.C. 


J 


TABf  THE  ARGENTINE  REPUBLIC,  THEIR 
[PLOYED,  &c. 


Mines 


Value. 


Catam:! 

^31 I     5    o 


B,3ii     5    o 

San  Jun^p34  i^  lo 

8,549     I    3 


Observations. 


Capital  and  Produce  included  in  Reduction  Works. 

Animals  Employed— Oxen 220 

Mules    3.000 

„  Asses 290 

3,.^10 


3,483    17      I 

La  Rio'p,625    o    o 
1,968  15    o 


7,693  15    o 

MENDo(^^(j8g       ^     6 

ft,  248     8    8 


1,237  13    o 


CordobI 


8,917   16    4 


8,917.16    4 


San  Lu 


1,750  o  o 
50  o  o 
3,637     I    8 


Total. 


5>437  I  8 

'0,299  o  2 

2,045  6  3 

3,647  I  8 


5,991     8    I 


Propo relation  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  Argentine  Republic 
,  6.666  per  cent.,  or  66  2-3rd  per  1,000. 


There  was  Silver  Regulus  on  surface  to  the  value  of 
about  £4,000. 


Value  included  in  Reduction  Works. 

Aninfals  Employed—  Oxen  302 

„  Mules 297 

599 


The  Gold  is  included  in  the  Mines,  valued  at  the 
rate  of  £2  18s.  4d.per  ounce. 


GENEIiAL    SUMMARY. 


TABLE  SHOWING  THE  MINES  AND  REDUCTION  WORKS  IN  ACTIVE  OPERATION   IN  THE  ARGENTINE  REPUBLIC,  THEIR 
PRODUCE,  CAPITAL  INVESTED,  NUMBER  OF  PERSONS  EMPLOYED,  &c. 

1868. 


Mines  and  Reduction  Works 

Whether  Gold,  Silver 
Or  Copper. 

Capital 
Invested. 

Produce. 

Value. 

Active  Operation. 

-»• 

SI.... 

Cm, 

o^!l 

o"r. 

"7^: 

5 
14 

5 
3 

3 
4 

28 
2S 

13 
28 

5. 

9 

6 

138 
866 

61,718  15    0 

.,692 

84,759 

14.892 

£    ».  J. 

58,311     5    0 

Reduction  Works 

Animkli  Emplojed— Oxen 320 

1.004 

430 
133 

61,718  15    0 

73,046  17    6 
112,500    0    0 

,1692 

84,759 
101,979 
79.838 

14,892 

58,311     5    0 

17,934  15  10 
18,549    1    3 

„                A«e' "0 

22  (and  II  lead) 
5 

'•"» 

Reduction  Works 

563 

125 
24 

185,546  17    6 

2,656    s    0 
8,437  lo   0 

■96 

181,817 

59,200 
22,570 

„ 

36483  17    1 

15,625    0    0 
1,968  15    0 

7 
S 

Reduction  Works 

149 
48 

11,093  15    0 

6,250    0    0 
4,062  10    0 

96 

81,770 
33,855 

200 

17,693  IS    0 

4,989    4    6 
4,248    8    8 

4 

Reduction  Works 

There  wai  Silver  Regulus  on  lurface  lo  the  Tslueol 
.boul  £(,000. 

144 

247 
336 

583 

50 
9<) 
95 

10,312  10   0 

12,515  13    6 
10,625    0    0 

33,855 
36,000 

9,237  13    0 
8,917  16    4 

8  (and  lead) 
3  (and  lead) 

Reduction  Works 

""""j:iS\Z^trZ£j:.-.     30, 

23,140  12    6 

3,437  10    0 

2,01s  12    6 

703    2    6 

600 
1,266 

36,000 

■20 

8,917.16    4 

1,750    0   0 

50    0   0 

3,637     1    8 

Reduction  Works 
Placer  Washings . 

"'..s-ir  kv,"i.'°,rp;;on.'c"'""' '"""'  ■' "" 

244 

i,oS6 

i,50fi 

95 

6,156    5    0 

97,906   s  g 
199,359   7  6 

703     2    6 

1,866 

600 
1,788 
1,266 

195,034 
223,167 

15,032 

5,437     1    8 

40,299    0    2 
92,045    6    3 
3,647     1    8 

ToT»L.  — Mines    

Reduction  Works 

Placer  Washings  

46 
'5 

2  687     Ti-,  "fi« 

3,654 

418,201 

■5,032 

135,991     8    1 

' 

1  to  the  capital  invested.  45.60  per  cent.     Proportion  of  persons  employed  i 
.179  percent.,  or  17  9.10th  per  1,000;  Ditto,  California  (population  780,00 


I  relation  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  Argentine  Republic 
)),  6.666  per  cent.,  or  66  2-^tA  per  i.ooo. 


39    rATEUiSOSTER    KoW,    E.C. 

London:  Jamicir// 18' o. 


GENERAL  LIST  OF  WOEKS 

PCBUSHED  BY 

Messrs.  LOI&MAlfSj  (}MM,  EEAJ)EE,,  ajid  LTER. 


Arts,  Manufactures,  &e 12 

Astronomy,  Meteorology,  Popular 

Geography,  &c 7 

Biography  and  Memolrs  3 

CHEjnsTRY,  Medicine,   Surgery,  and 

the  Allied  Sciences  9 

Commerce,  Navigation,  and  jNIercan- 

TiLE  Affairs  19 

Criticism,  Philology,  &e 4 

Fine  Arts  and  Illustrated  Editions  1 1 

History  and  Politics    1 

Index  21—24 


Miscellaneous  and  Popular   Meta- 
physical Works G 

Natural     History     and     Popul.vr 

Science s 

Poetry  and  The  Drama 18 

Kbligious  and  Moral  Works  14 

Rural  Sports,  &c 19 

Travels,  Voyages,  &c IG 

Works  of  Fiction 17 

Works    of    Utility    and    General 

Information   2d 


History  and  Politic-^. 


Lord  Macaiilay's  Works.  Com- 
plete and  uniform  Library  Etlition.  Edited 
by  his  Sister,  Ladj'  Trevelyan.  8  vols. 
8vo.  with  Portrait,  price  £.5  5s.  cloth,  or 
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The   History   of   England  from 

the  fall  of  Wolsey  to  the  Defeat  of  the 
Spanish  Armada.  By  James  Anthony 
Froude,  M.A.  late  Fellow  of  Exeter  College, 
Oxford.     12  vols.  8vo.  price  £8  !.''»•.  cloth. 

The    History   of   England  from 

the  Accession  of  James  II.  By  Lord 
Macaulay. 

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Speeches  of  Earl  Russell,  1817- 

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the  Rev.  J.  G.  Woon,  M.A.  F.L.S.  With 
about  100  Vignettes  on  Wood  ("20  full  size 
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the  same  Author.  Third  Edition,  enlarged. 
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By  E.  Stani.kv,  D.D.  late  Lord  Bishop  of 
Norwich.     Fcp.  with  Woodcuts,  3s.  Gd. 

Kirby  and  Spence's  Introduction 

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The  British  Flora ;  comprising  the 

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Maunder's  Scientific  and  Lite- 
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The  Quarterly  Journal  of  Science. 

Ivlited  by  James  Sa:muels()n  and  \Villiam 
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Chemistry,  Medicine,  Surgery,  and  the  Allied  Sciences. 


A  Dictionary  of  Chemistry  and 

the  Allied  Branches  of  other  Sciences.  By 
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Handbook  of  Chemical  Analysis, 

adapted  to  the  Unitanj  Si/sfem  of  Notation. 
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Svo.  7s.  6c?. 

Conington's      Tables     of     Qualitative 
Anali/sh,  to  accompany  the  above,  2s.  Gd. 


Elements  of  Chemistry,  Theore- 
tical and  Practical.  By  William  A. 
Miller,  M.D.  LL.D.  Professor  of  Chemis- 
try, King's  College,  London.  Fourth  Edi- 
tion.    3  vols.  Svo.  £3. 

Part  I.  CiiE:\ricAL  Physics,  15s. 

Part  II.  Inorgaxic  Chemistry,  21s. 

Part  III.  Organic  Chemistry,  24,'--. 

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10 


NEW  WORKS  PUBLISHED  BY  LONGMANS  and  CO. 


A  Course  of  Practical  Cliemistry, 

for  the  use  of  Medical  Students.  B^- 
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Outlines  of  Chemistry;  or,  Brief 
Notes  of  Chemical  Facts.  By  the  same 
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Chemical  News,  with  Notes,  by  W.  Crookes, 
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Chemical  Notes  for  the  Lecture 

Room.  By  Thomas  Wood,  F.C.S.  2  vols, 
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11.  on  the  Metals,  price  5s. 

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sician to  the  Infii-mary  for  Epilepsy  and 
Paralysis.  Second  Edition,  revised  and 
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The   Diagnosis,    Pathology,    and 

Treatment  of  Diseases  of  Women  ;  including 
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trical Societj'  of  London.  Second  Edition, 
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Lectures  on  the  Diseases  of  In- 
fancy and  Childhood.  By  Cii^UiLES  West, 
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On   the   Surgical   Treatment   of 

Children's  Diseases.  By  T.  Holmes,  M.A. 
&c.  late  Surgeon  to  the  Hospital  for  Sick 
Children.  Second  Edition,  with  9  Plates 
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A  System  of  Surgery,  Theoretical 

and  Practical,  in  Treatises  by  Various 
Authors.  Edited  by  T.  Holmes,  M.A.  &c. 
Surgeon  and  Lectm-er  on  Surgery  at  St. 
George's  Hospital,  and  Surgeon-in-Chief  to 
the  Metropolitan  Police.  Second  Edition, 
thoroughly  revised,  with  numerous  Hlus- 
trations.     5  vols.  8vo.  £5  5s. 

Lectures  on  the  Principles  and 

Practice  of  Physic.  By  Sir  Thomas  Wat- 
son, Bart.  M.D.  Physician-Extraordinary 
to  the  Queen.     New  Edition  in  preparation. 


Lecttires  on  Surgical  Pathology. 

By  J.  Paget,F.R.S.  Surgeon-Extraordinary 
to  the  Queen.  Edited  by  W.  Tukner,  M.B. 
New  Edition  in  preparation. 

Cooper's  Dictionary  of  Practical 

Surgery  and  Encyclopedia  of  Surgical 
Science.  New  Edition,  brought  down  to 
the  present  time.  By  S.  A.  Lane,  Surgeon  to 
St.  Mary's,  and  Consulting  Surgeon  to  the 
Lock  Hospitals;  Lecturer  on  Surgery  at 
St.  Mary's  Hospital ;  assisted  by  various 
Eminent  Surgeons.  Vol.  IL  8vo.  com- 
pleting the  work.  \^Early  in  1870. 

On  Chronic  Bronchitis,  especially 

as  connected  with  Gout,  Emphysema,  and 
Diseases  of  the  Heart.  Bv  E.  Headlaji 
Greenhow,  M.D.  F.R.C.P.  &c.  8vo.  7s.  6rf. 

The    Climate    of   the    South    of 

France  as  Suited  to  Invalids  ;  with  Notices 
of  Mediterranean  and  other  Winter  Sta- 
tions. By  C.  T.  AYiLLiAMS,  M.A.  M.D. 
Oxon.  Assistant-Physician  to  the  Hospital 
for  Consumption  at  Brompton.  Second 
Edition,  with  Frontispiece  and  Map.  Cr. 
8vo.  6s. 

Pulmonary      Consujnption ;      its 

Nature,  Treatment,  and  Duration  exem- 
plified by  an  Analysis  of  One  Thousand 
Cases  selected  from  upwards  of  Twentj' 
Thousand.  By  C.  J.  B.  Willlvms,  M.D. 
F.R.S.  Consultmg  Physician  to  the  Hos- 
pital for  Consumption  at  Brompton;  and 
C.  T.  Williams,  JI.A.  M.D.  Oxon. 

\_Nearly  ready. 

A    Treatise    on    the    Continued 

Fevers  of  Great  Britain.  By  C.  Murchison. 
M.D.  Physician  and  Lecturer  on  the  Practice 
of  Medicine,  Middlesex  Hospital.  New 
Edition  in  preparation. 

Clinical  Lectures  on  Diseases  of  the 
Liver,  Javmdice,  and  Abdominal  Dropsy. 
By  the  same  Author.  Post  8vo.  with  25 
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gical. By  Henry  Gray,  F.R.S.  With 
about  410  Woodcuts  from  Dissections.  Fifth 
Edition,  by  T.Holmes,  M.A.Cantab.  With 
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Clinical   Notes    on  Diseases  of 

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11 


The  House  I  Live  in ;  or,  Popular 

Illustrations  of  the  Structure  and  Functions 
of  the  Human  Body,  Edited  by  T.  G.Girtin. 
New  Edition,  with  25  Woodcuts.  16mo. 
price  '2s.  Gd. 

Outlines    of   Physiology,   Human 

and  Comparative.  By  John  Marshall, 
F.R.C.S.  Professor  of  Surgery  in  University 
College,  London,  and  Surgeon  to  the  Uni- 
versity College  Hospital.  2  vols,  crown  8vo. 
■with  122  Woodcuts,  32s. 

Physiological  Anatomy  and  Phy- 
siology of  Uan.  By  the  late  E.  B.  Todd, 
M.D.  F.R.S.  and  W.  Bowslvn,  F.R.S.  of 
King's  College.  With  numerous  Illustra- 
tions.   Vol.  II.  8vo.  25s. 

Vol.  I.  New  Edition  by  Dr.  Lionel  S. 
Beale,  F.R.S.  in  course  of  publication  ; 
Pakt  I.  with  8  Plates,  7s.  6d. 

A  Dictionary  of  Practical  Medi- 
cine. By  J.  Copland,  M.D.  F.R.S. 
Abridged  from  the  larger  work  by  the 
Author,  assisted  by  J.  C.  Copland,  M.R.C.S. 
Pp.  1,560,  in  8vo.  price  36s. 


The  Theory  of   Ocular   Defects 

and  of  Spectacles.  Translated  from  the 
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Carter,  F.R.C.S.    Post  8vo.  7s.  Gd. 

A    Manual   of    Materia    Medica 

and  Therapeutics,  abridged  from  Dr. 
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R.  Warington,  F.R.S.  1  vol.  8vo.  with 
90  Woodcuts,  21s. 

Thomson's    Conspectus    of    the 

British  Pharmacopoeia.  Twenty-fifth  Edi- 
tion, corrected  by  E.  Lloyd  Birkett,  M.D. 
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Manual  of  the  Domestic  Practice 

of  Medicine.  By  W.  B.  Kesteven, 
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revised,  with  Additions.     Fcp.  5s. 

Essays  on  Physiological  Subjects. 

By  Gilbert  W.  Child,  M.A.  F.L.S.  F.C.S. 
Second  Edition.  Cro'wn  8vo.  with  Wood- 
cuts, 7s.  Gd, 

Gymnasts    and   Gymnastics.    By 

John  H.  Howard,  late  Professor  of  Gym- 
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In  Fairyland  ;  Pictures  from  the  Elf- 
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Poem  by  W.  Allinghaji.  With  Sixteen 
Plates,  containing  Thirty-six  Designs 
printed  in  Colours.    Folio,  31s.  Gd. 

Life     of     John     Gibson,     R.A. 

Sculptor.  Edited  by  Lady  Eastlaee. 
8vo.  10s.  Gd. 

Materials  for   a  History  of  Oil 

Painting.  By  Sir  Charles  Locke  East- 
lake,  sometime  President  of  the  Royal 
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Albert     Durer,     his     Life     and 

Works  ;  including  Autobiographical  Papers 
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Half-Hour  Lectxires  on  the  His- 
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mental Ai-ts.  By.  W.  B.  Scott.  Second 
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Six  Lectures  on  Harmony.  De- 
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Lyra  Germanica,  the  Christian  Year. 
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Lyra  Germanica.  the  Christian  Life. 
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Sacred  and  Legendary  Art.    By 

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Legends  of  the  Saints  and  Martyrs. 
Fifth  Edition,  with  19  Etchings  and  187 
Woodcuts.  2  vols,  square  crown  8vo. 
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Legends  of  the  Madonna.  Third  Edition, 
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The  History  of  Ovir  Lord,  as  exemplified 
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The  Useful  Arts,  Mamifactures,  ^-c. 


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Gwilt's  Encyclopaedia  of  Archi- 
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Italian  Sculptors :  being  a  History  of 
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ern Italy.  By  C.  C.  Perkixs.  With  30 
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perial 8vo.  42s. 

Tuscan    Sculptors,  their    Lives, 

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The  Engineer's    Handbook ;    ex- 

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Lathes  and  Turning,  Simple,  Me- 
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TJre's  Dictionary  of  Arts,  Manu- 
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IIvNT,  F.R.S.  assisted  by  numerous  Con- 
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Treatise  on  MUls  and  Millwork. 

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Usefvil  Information  for  Engineers.    By 

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13 


li-on  Ship  Building,   its  History 

and  Pi-oyress,  as  odiiiprised  in  a  Series  of 
Kxperimeiital  Kescarclies  on  the  Laws  of 
.Strain  ;  the  Strengths,  Forms,  and  other 
conditions  of  the  Material ;  and  an  Inquiry 
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Tables  at  Twenty-four  Different  Rate.s  not 
exceeding  Five  per  Cent.  Calculated  for  the 
use  of  Bankers.  To  which  are  added  Com- 
mission Tables  at  One-eighth  and  One- 
fourth  per  Cent.     8yo.  15s. 


INDEX. 


Acton's  Modern  Cookery 20 

Alcock's  Residence  in  Japan 17 

Allies  on  Formation  of  Christendom 15 

Alpine  Guide  (The) 17 

AxTHAUs  on  Medical  Electricity   10 

An  DEE  ws's  Life  of  Oliver  Crouiwell 3 

Arnold's  Manual  of  English  Literature   . .  6 

Aenott's  Elements  of  Physics  8 

Arundines  Cami  18 

Autumn  Holidays  of  a  Country  Parson 6 

Atee's  Treasury  of  Bible  Knowledge 15 

Bacon's  Essays  by  Whately  5 

Life  and  Letters,  by  Spedding   . .  4 

Works 5 

Bain's  Mental  and  Moral  Science    7 

on  the  Emotions  and  Will  7 

on  the  Senses  and  Intellect 7 

oil  the  Study  of  Character  7 

Ball's  Guide  to  the  Central  Alps 16 

Guide  to  the  Western  Alps IG 

Guide  to  the  Eastern  Alps    16 

Baenard's  Drawing  from  Nature    12 

Batldon's  Rents  and  Tillages  13 

Beaten  Tracks 16 

Becker's  Charicles  and  GaUus 18 

Benfet's  Sanskrit-English  Dictionary 6 

Black's  Treatise  on  Brewing 20 

Placklet's  Word-Gossip    7 

German-English  Dictionary  . .  6 

Blaine's  Rural  Sports 19 

Veterinary  Art 19 

Bourne  on  Screw  Propeller 13 

's  Catechism  of  the  Stoam  Engine . .  13 

Examples  of  Modern  Engines    . .  13 

Handbook  of  Steam  Engine   ....  13 

■ Treatise  on  the  Steam  Engine 13 

Improvements    in    the    Steam- 

Engine 13 

Bowdler's  Family  Shakspeare 18 

Beande's  Dictionary  of  Science,  Literature, 

and  Art g 

Brat's  (C.)  Education  of  the  Feelings   7 

Philosophy  of  Necessity   7 

On  Force 7 

Browne's  Exposition  of  the  39  Articles 14 

Buckle's  History  of  Civilisation  2 

Bull's  Hints  to  Mothers 20 

Maternal  Management  of  Children . .  20 

Bunsen's  Ancient  Egypt 3 

■ —  God  in  History 3 

Memoirs 4 

Bunsen  (E.  De)  on  Apocrypha 15 

's  Keys  of  St.  Peter   15 

Buebuey's  Mary's  Every  Day  Book    20 

Burke's  Vicissitudes  of  Families 4 


Burton's  Christian  Church    ......'     3 

Vikram  and  the  Vampire 17 


Cabinet  Lawyer ..777.77. 20 

Calvert's  Wife's  Manual    15 

Cates's  Biographical  Dictionary  4 

Cats  and  Faelie's  Moral  Emblems    12 

Changed  Aspects  of  Unchanged  Truths 6 

CnESNEY'a  Euphrates  Expedition    17 

Indian  Polity     2 

Waterloo  Campaign    2 

Child's  Physiological  Essays 11 

Chorale  Book  for  England    11 

Clough's  Lives  from  Plutarch 2 

Cobbe's  Norman  Kings 3 

CoLENSO  (Bishop)  on  Pentateuch  and  Book 

of  Joshua 15 

Commonplace   Philosopher   in   Town   and 

Country   c 

Conington's  Chemical  Analysis   9 

Translation  of  Virgil's  Jineid  19 

CoNTANSEAu's  Two  French  Dictionaries  . .  6 
CoNTBEAEEandHowsoN'sLife  and  Epistles 

of  St.  Paul li 

Cook's  Acts  of  the  Apostles 14 

4 


Cooper's  Surgical  Dictionary 10 

Copland's  Dictionary  of  Practical  Medicine  11 

Cotton's  Introduction  to  Confirmation 14 

Coulthart's  Decimal  Interest  Tables  ....  20 

Counsel  and  Comfort  from  a  City  Pulpit    . .  6 

Cox's  (G.  W.)  Manual  of  Mythology 18 

Aryan  Mythology    3 

Tale  of  tlie  Great  Persian  War  2 

Tales  of  Ancient  Greece 


■  (H.)  Ancient  Parliamentary  Elections 

History  of  the  Reform  Bills  .... 

Whig  and  Tory  Administrations 


18 
1 
1 

1 
Crest's  Encyclopaedia  of  Civil  Engineering    13 

Critical  Essays  of  a  Country  Parson 6 

Crowe's  History  of  France 2 

Cullet's  Handbook  of  Telegraphy 12 

Cusack's  History  of  Ireland  2 


Dart's  Iliad  of  Homer 19 

D'AUBIGN^'S  History  of  the  Reformation  in 

the  time  of  Calvin 2 

Davidson  's  Introduction  to  New  Testament  14 

Dayman's  Dante's  Divina  Commedia 19 

Dead  Shot  (The),  by  Marksman  19 

De  la  Rive's  Treatise  on  Electricity 8 

Denison's  Vice-Regal  Life  1 

De  Tocqueville's  Democracy  in  America .  2 

DoBSON  on  the  Ox  19 


22 


NEW  WORKS  PUBLISHED  BY  LONGMANS  and  CO. 


Dove's  Law  of  Storms   8 

DoTiE'a  Fairyland 11 

Dteb's  City  of  Rome 3 

Eastlake's  Hints  on  Household  Taste  —  12 

Historyof  Oil  Painting    11 

Life  of  Gibson  11 

Edmunds's  Names  of  Places  6 

Edwaeds's  Shipmaster's  Guide 20 

Elements  of  Botany    9 

Elxicott's  Commentary  on  Ephesians 14 

— Destiny  of  the  Creature    14 

: Lectures  on  Life  of  Christ  ....  14 

Commentary  on  Galatians  ....  14 

Pastoral  Epist.  14 

■ —  Philippians,&c.  14 

Thessalonians  14 

Essays  and  Reviews    15 

Ewald's  History  of  Israel  14 

Faiebaien's     Application    of    Cast    and 

"Wrought  Iron  to  Building    12 

■             Information  for  Engineers  ....  12 

Treatise  on  Mills  and  Millwork  IS 

Iron  Shipbuilding  13 

Faeadat's  Life  and  LettL'rs   3 

Faeeae's  Chapters  on  Language 5 

Families  of  Speech 7 

Felkin  on  Hosiery  &  Lace  Manufactures. .  13 

Ffoulees's  Christendom's  Divisions 15 

FiTZWTGEAM  On  Horses  and  Stables  19 

Five  Years  in  a  Protestant  Sisterhood 14 

Flamank's  Diversities  of  Life    7 

FoEBES's  Earls  of  Granard 4 

Fowler's  Collieries  and  Colliers  20 

Feancis's  Fishing  Book   19 

Feeshfield's  Travels  in  the  Caucasus If! 

Feoude's  History  of  England    1 

Short  Studies   G 

Ganot's  Elementary  Physics 8 

Gascoigne's  Doctor  Harold   18 

Gilbert's  Cadore   16 

and  Chxjechill's  Dolomites   ....  16 

Gietin's  House  I  Live  In    11 

Goldsmith's  Poems,  Illustrated 18 

Gould's  Silver  Store 6 

Geaham's  Book  About  Words   5 

Geant's  Ethics  of  Aristotle 5 

■ Home  Politics 2 

Graver  Thoughts  of  a  Country  Parson 6 

Gray's  Anatomy 10 

Geeknhow  on  Bronchitis    10 

Geove  on  Correlation  of  Physical  Forces   . .  8 

Guenet's  Chaitters  of  French  History  ....  2 

Gwilt's  Encyclopaedia  of  Architecture  ....  12 


Hare  on  Election  of  Representatives   5 

Haetwig's  Harmonies  of  Nature 9 

Polar  World  9 

'                      Sea  and  its  Living  Wonders ....  9 

Tropical  World "9 

Hatch's  Life  of  Shaftesbury  3 

Haughton's  JIanual  of  Geology  8 

Hawkee'3  Instructions  to  Young  Sports- 
men     19 


Heeschel's  Outlines  of  Astronomy 7 

Hewitt  on  the  Diseases  of  Women 10 

Holmes's  Surgical  Treatment  of  Children..  10 

System  of  Surgery 10 

HooKEE  and  Walkee-Aenoti's   British 

Flora 9 

HoENE's  Introduction  to  the  Scriptures   . .  15 

Compendium  of  the  Scriptures   ..  15 

How  we  Spent  the  Summer 16 

Howaed's  Gymnastic  Exercises    11 

HowiTi's  Australian  Discovery 17 

Northern  Heights  of  London 17 

Rural  Life  of  England 17 

Visits  to  Remarkable  Places  ....  17 

Hughes's  Manual  of  Geography  8 

Hume's  Essays 7 

Treatise  on  Human  Nature 7 

HuMPHEEYs's  Sentiments  of  Shakspeare  . .  12 

Ihne's  Eoman  History 2 

Ingelow's  Poems    18 

Story  of  Doom 18 

Mopsa 18 

Instructions  in  Household  Matters 20 


Jameson's  Legends  of  Saints  and  Martyrs . .  12 

— Legends  of  the  Madonna 12 

Legends  of  the  Monastic  Orders  12 

Legends  of  the  Saviour 12 

Johnston's  Geographical  Dictionary 8 

Jukes  on  Second  Death   15 

on  Types  of  Genesis 15 

Kalisch's  Commentary  on  the  Bible 5 

Hebrew  G I  ammar 5 

Keith  on  Destiny  of  the  World 14 

Fulfilment  of  Prophecy 14 

Keel's     Metallurgy,    by    Ceookes    and 

Roheig    13 

Kesteven's  Domestic  Medicine    11 

Kieby  and  Spence's  Entomology 9 

Landon's  (L.  E.  L.)  Poetical  Works    18 

Latham's  English  Dictionary 5 

River  Plate 8 

Lawloe's  Pilgrimages  in  the  Pyrenees  ....  16 

Lecky's  History  of  European  Morals 3 

Rationalism 3 

Leighton's  Sermons  and  Charges  14 

Leisure  Hours  in  Town 6 

Lessons  of  Middle  Age    6 

Letheby  on  Food   20 

Lewis's  Biographical  History  of  Philosophy  3 

Lewis's  Letters    4 

LicDELLand  Scott's Greek-Eng'ish  Lexicon  6 

Abridged  ditto   6 

Life  of  Man  SjTnbolised 11 

MarL'aret  M.  Hallahan 14 

LiNDLEY  and  Mooee'8  Treasury  of  Botany  9 

Lindsay's  Evidence  for  the  Papacy 14 

Longman's  Edward  the  Third 2 

Lectures  on  History  of  England  2 

Chess  Opi-nings 20 

Lord's  Prayer  Illustrated 11 


NEW  WORKS  PUBLISHED  BY  LONGMANS  and  CO. 


23 


LouDOK's  Bncyclopaeilia  of  Agi-iculture  —  13 

, —  Gardening 13 

Plants 9 

Lowndes's  Engineer's  Handbook 12 

Lyra  Eucharistica    1*5 

Germanica 11, 16 

Messianica ^^ 

Mystica  ^^ 

Mabeldean 17 

Macauiat's  (Lord)  Essays 3 

History  of  England    . .  1 

Lays  of  Ancient  Rome  18 

— —  Miscellaneous  Writings  6 

^^ Speeches 5 

Works 1 

Macpaeeen's  Lectures  on  Harmony H 

Mackintosu's    Scenery   of    England    and 

Wales    8 

Macieod's  Elements  of  Political  Economy  4 

Dictionary  of  Political  Economy    4 

Elements  of  Banking 19 

Theory  and  Practice  of  Banking  19 

McCuiLOCH's  Dictionary  of  Commerce 20 

Geographical  Dictionary  ....  8 

Maguiee's  Life  of  Father  Mathew 4 

Manning's  England  and  Christendom  —  15 

Maecet  on  the  Larynx 10 

Marshall's  Physiology   11 

Maeshman's  History  of  India  2 

Life  of  Havelock   4 

Maetineau's  Endeavours  after  the  Chris- 
tian Life  16 

Martineau's  Letters  from  Australia 16 

Masset's  History  of  England 1 

Massingberd's  History  of  the  Reformation  3 

Matheson's  England  to  Delhi  16 

Maundee's  Biographical  Treasury 4 

Geogranhical  Treasury 8 

. Historical  Treasury    3 

Scientific  and  Literary  Treasury  9 

■ Treasury  of  Knowledge 20 

Treasury  of  Natural  History  . .  9 

Mauet's  Physical  Geography 8 

Mat's  Constitutional  History  of  England. .  1 

Melville's  Digby  Grand 18 

. General  Bounce  18 

Gladiators 18 

-..          Good  for  Nothing   18 

—.- HolmbyHouse 18 

I nterpreter   18 

. Kate  Coventry 18 

Queen's  Jlaries   18 

Mendelssohn's  Letters  4 

Menes  and  Cheops    7 

Meeivale'S  (H.). Historical  Studies   2 

. (C.)Fallof  the  Roman  Republic     3 

.1 . Romans  under  the  Empire  3 

_ —  Boyle  Lectures  3 

Meerifield  and  Evees's  Navigation   ....  7 

Miles  on  Horse's  Foot  and  Horse  Shoeing .  19 

on  Horses' Teeth  and  Stables   19 

Mill  (J.)  on  the  Mind 4 

Mill  (J.  S.)  on  Liberty 4 

■                 England  and  Ireland 4 

. Subjection  of  Women    4 

on  Represent  ative  Government  4 

on  Utilitarianism    4 

's  Dissertations  and  Discussions 4 

Political  Economy    4 


Mill's  System  of  Logic 4 

Hamilton's  Philosophy  4 

Inaugural  Address  at  St.  Andrew's .  4 

Millee's  Elements  of  Chemistry 9 

Hymn  Writers 15 

Mitchell's  Manual  of  Assaying  13 

Monsell's  Beatitudes 16 

His  Presence  not  his  Memory. .  16 

'  Spiritual  Songs '    16 

Mooee's  Irish  Melodies 18 

Lalla  Rookh  18 

Journal  and  Correspondence  ....  3 

Poetical  Works 18 

(Dr.  G.)  Power  of  the  Soul  over 

the  Body 15 

Moeell's  Elements  of  Psychology    7 

Mental  Philosophy 7 

MtJLLEE's    (Max)   Chips  from   a   German 

Workshop    7 

Lectures  on  the  Science  of  Lan- 
guage   5 

(K.   O.)   Literature  of  Ancient 

Greece  2 

MUECHISON  on  Continued  Fevers 10 

on  Liver  Complaints 10 

Muee's  Language  and  Literature  of  Greece  2 


New  Testament  Illustrated  with  Wood  En- 
gravings from  the  Old  Masters   11 

Newman's  History  of  his  Religious  Opinions  4 

Nichols's  Handbook  to  British  Museum..  20 

Nightingale's  Notes  on  Hospitals   20 

Nilsson's  Scandinavia 9 

Noethcote's  Sanctuary  of  the  Madonna  . .  14 

NoETHCOTT  on  Lathes  and  Turning   12 

Noeton's  City  or  London    17 

Odling's  Animal  Chemistry   10 

Course  of  Practical  Chemistry  . .  10 

Manual  of  Chemistry. 9 

Lectures  on  Carbon    10 

Outlines  of  Chemistry  10 

Our  Children's  Story 18 

Owen's  Comparative  Anatomy  and  Physio- 
logy of  Vertebrate  Animals 9 

Lectures  on  the  Invertebrata 8 

Packe's  Guide  to  the  Pyrenees 17 

Paget's  Lectures  on  Surgical  Pathology    . .  10 

Peeeiea's  Manual  of  Materia  Medica 11 

Perkins's  Italian  and  Tuscan  Sculptors  . .  12 

Phillips's  Guide  to  Geology 8 

Pictures  in  Tyrol 16 

Piesse's  Art  of  Perfumery  IS 

Chemical,  Natural,  and  Physical  Magic  IS 

Peatt's  Law  of  Building  Societies  20 

Peendeegast's  Mastery  of  Languages  ....  6 

Peescott's  Scripture  Difficulties 16 

Peoctoe's  Handbook  of  the  Stars    7 

Saturn   7 

Ptne's  England  and  France  in  the  Fifteenth 

Century    2 

Quarterly  Journal  of  Science 9 


Hi 


NEW  WORKS  pusLiiiHED  by  LONGMANS  anu  CO. 


llecreations  of  a  Country  Parson  6 

Reichel's  See  of  Rome 11 

Reillt's  Map  of  Mont  Blanc 16 

Reimann  on  Aniline  Dyes  13 

Religious  Republics 15 

Rilkt's  Memorials  of  London  17 

RiVEES's  Rose  Amateur's  Guide   9 

ROBBlNS's  Cavalry  Catechism 19 

EoGEKs's  Correspondence  of  Greyson 7 

Eclipse  of  Faith  7 

Defence  of  Faith 7 

, Essays  from  the  Edinburgh  Re- 
view    6 

Reason  and  Faith   6 

Eocjet's  Thesaurus  of  English  AVords  and 

Phrases    5 

Roma  Sotterranea    17 

RoNALDs's  Fly-Fisher's  Entomology   19 

RowTOn's  Debater 5 

RuBSELL  on  Government  and  Constitution  1 
's  (Earl)  Speeches  and  Despatches  1 

Samuelson's  German  Working  Man 17 

Sandars's  Justinian's  Institutes 5 

Schepflee  on  Ocular  Defects  11 

Scott's  Lectures  on  the  Fine  Arts  11 

Albert  Durer 11 

Seebohm's  Oxford  Reformers  of  1498 2 

Sewell's  After  Life  17 

Glimpse  of  the  "World  17 

History  of  the  Early  Church 3 

Journal  of  a  Home  Life   17 

Passing  Thoughts  on  Religion  . .  15 

Preparation  for  Communion 15 

Principles  of  Education  15 

Readings  for  Confirmation 15 

Readings  for  Lent 15 

Examination  for  Confirmation  ..  15 

Stories  and  Tales    17 

.      .-. Thoughts  for  the  Holy  Week  ....  15 

•SErMOUE's  Pioneering  in  the  Pampas 16 

Sn  aftesbuet's  Characteristics 7 

Shasspeare's  Midsummer  Night's  Dream, 

illustrated  with  Silhouettes 12 

SniPlET's  Church  and  the  World    15 

Invocation  of  Saints 16 

Shoet's  Church  History 3 

Smart's  Walkee's   English   Pronouncing 

Dictionaries    5 

Smith's  (  Soutitwood)  Philosophy  of  Health  20 

(J.)  Paul's  Voyage  and  Shipwreck  14 

(Sydney)  Miscellaneous  Works  ..  6 

Wit  and  Wisdom   6 

Soutitet's  Doctor •  5 

Poetical  Works IS 

Stanley's  History  of  British  Birds 9 

Stbbbikg's  Analysis  of  Mill's  Logic 5 

Stephen's   Essays  in   Ecclesiastical   Bio- 
graphy    * 

Stieling's  Secret  of  Hegel 7 

SroNEHENGE  on  the  Dog 19 

. ■  on  the  Greyhound 19 

Strickland's  Tudor  Princesses  4 

: Queens  of  England    4 

Strong  and  Free    7 

Sunday  Afternoons  at  the  Parish  Church  of 

a  Scottish  University  City  C 


Sweetman's     Through    the    Night,   aud 

Onward    17 

Tatloe's  (Jeremy)  Works,  edited  by  Eden  15 

Thielw all's  History  of  Greece    2 

TiMBS's  Curiosities  of  London  17 

Thomson's  (Archbishop)  Laws  of  Thought  5 

Thompson's  Paraguayan  War    16 

(A.  T.)  Conspectus 11 

Todd  (A.)  on  Parliamentary  Government . .  1 
and  Bowman's  Anatomy  and  Phy- 
siology of  Man   11 

Teencii's  Realities  of  Irish  Life    2 

Teollope's  Barchester  Towers 18 

Warden  18 

Twiss's  Law  of  Nations 20 

Ttndall's  Lectures  on  Heat 8 

Lectures  on  Sound 8 

Uncle  Peter's  Fairy  Tale    18 

Uee's  Dictionary  of  Arts,  Manufactures,  and 

Mines    1'2 


Van  Dee  Hoeven's  Handbook  of  Zoology . .      8 
Vaughan's  Revolutions  in  English  History      2 


Waebueton's  Hunting  Songs  19 

Watson's  Principles  and  Practice  of  Physic  10 

Watts's  Dictionary  of  Chemistry 9 

Webb's  Objects  for  Common  Telescopes —  7 

Webstee  &  Wilkinson's  Greek  Testament  14 

Weld's  Notes  on  Burgundy   16 

Wellington's  Life,  by  Gleig 4 

West  on  Children's  Diseases  10 

on  Nursing  Children 20 

Whatelt's  English  Synonymes  5 

Logic 5 

Rhetoric 5 

on  Religious  Worship  16 

Whist,  what  to  Lead,  by  Cam 20 

White  and  Riddle's  Latin-English  Dic- 
tionaries    5 

WiLCOCKs's  Sea  Fisherman 19 

Williams's  Aristotle's  Ethics   5 

History  of  Wales 2 

Williams  ou  Climate  of  South  of  France. .  10 

Consumption 10 

WiLLicn's  Popular  Tables  20 

Willis's  Principles  of  Mechanism  12 

WiNSLOW  on  Light 8 

Wood's  ( J.  G.)  Bible  Animals 9 

Homes  without  Hand.s   ....  9 

(T.)  Chemical  Notes  10 

Weight's  Homer's  Iliad 19 

Yeo's  Manual  of  Zoology 8 

Yonge's  English-Greek  Lexicons 6 

Two  Editions  of  Horace  18 

YOTJATT  on  the  Dog    19 

on  the  Horse 19 

Zellee's  Socrates 3 

Stoics,  Epicureans,  and  Sceptics. .  3 


SPOTTI.SWOODE     AND     CO.,     PUIXTEES,     SEW-STREET     SQUARE     AND     1>ARLIAMKXT     STBEBT. 


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