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MINNESOTA  ABB 


FORT   FRANCES 


53       SUPERIi 
NATIONAL  I 


CHIPPFWA 
NATIONAL  FOREST 


WHEAD  REGION 


PORT  ARTHUR 
FT.  WILLIAM 


0/GRAND 
PORTAGE 


CRUISES 
SJN1)   £XCUttSIONS 


WASHINGTON 
HARBOR 


THE  MINNESOTA 

ARROWHEAD 

COUNTRY 


INTO  THE  PRIMITIVE 


THE  MINNESOTA 

ARROWHEAD 

COUNTRY 


Compiled  by  Workers  of  the  Writers9  Program 

of  the  Work  Projects  Administration 

in  the  State  of  Minnesota 


AMERICAN  GUIDE  SERIES 
ILLUSTRATED 


Sponsored  by  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead  Association,  Inc. 

ALBERT^WHITMAN 

&-4-CO 

CHICAGO,  ILLINOIS 
1941 


COPYRIGHT,  1941,  BY  THE 
MINNESOTA  ARROWHEAD  ASSOCIATION,  INC 


STATE  DEPARTMENT  OF  EDUCATION, 
State-wide  Sponsor  of  the  Minnesota  Writers'  Project 

FEDERAL  WORKS  AGENCY 
JOHN  M.  CARMODY,  Administrator 

WORK  PROJECTS  ADMINISTRATION 
HOWARD  O.  HUNTER,  Commissioner 
FLORENCE  KERR,  Assistant  Commissioner 
S.  L.  STOLTE,  State  Administrator 


All  rights  are  reserved,  including  the  right  to  reproduce 
this  book  or  parts  thereof  in  any  form. 


PRINTED     IN     THE     UNITED     STATES     OF     AMERICA 


<<0*^0r*,0r*^&*^*^^0™^K<^^ 


Introduction 


There  is  nothing  that  should  give  a  person  greater  pleasure  than  to 
have  his  own  section  of  the  country  known  and  appreciated,  used,  and 
enjoyed.  For  it  is  normal  and  sane  to  open  the  gates  of  your  home,  instead 
of  erecting  barriers  around  it.  This  guidebook  is  published  to  ask  people 
to  come  to  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead  Country,  to  tell  them  how  to  come, 
when  to  come,  what  they  will  find  when  they  get  here,  and  how  best  to 
enrich  their  experience.  Its  publication  is  a  great  satisfaction  to  those  of 
us  who  call  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead  Country  home,  who  knew  it  when 
it  was  less  accessible  and  less  comfortable  than  it  is  today,  and  whose 
fathers  and  grandfathers  have  told  us  of  previous  times  when  to  visit  this 
region  was  an  adventure  which  had  real  peril  in  it. 

It  is  still  an  adventure,  though  the  peril  has  reached  the  vanishing 
point.  It  is  an  adventure  into  country  which  never  can  lose  its  natural 
and  rather  wild  beauty.  And  always  it  tempts  the  imagination  to  look 
both  back  and  forward.  We  want  many  people  to  find  this  out  for  them- 
selves. 

In  addition,  there  is  something  else  which  is  satisfying  in  this  guidebook. 
We  are  glad  that  this  introduction  to  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead  is  not 
merely  a  commercial  publication,  nor  the  result  of  the  enthusiasm  of  one 
writer.  Into  its  making  has  gone  a  study  of  history  and  a  great  deal  of 
close  research  which  has  been  most  interesting  work  and  also  the  source 
of  livelihood  for  a  number  of  resident  men  and  women.  They  have  care- 
fully studied  the  past  and  the  modern  relations  of  this  section  of  the 
country,  investigated  its  chances  and  capacities.  They  have  made  the 
Minnesota  Arrowhead  live  in  these  pages,  and  in  return  the  Arrowhead 
has  given  them  a  living,  which  is  just  as  it  should  be. 

This  book  is  a  source  book,  we  hope.  Here  are  the  notes  for  hundreds 
of  future  works  that  may  be  written  about  the  Arrowhead — biographies, 


VI  INTRODUCTION 

adventure  stories,  economic  analyses.  It  is  so  offered,  and  those  of  us  who 
have  been  connected  with  the  making  of  this  book  in  an  advisory  way,  or 
have  merely  offered  its  writers  encouragement,  hope  that  it  will  be  a  spring- 
board for  enjoyment,  education,  and  the  furtherance  and  deepening  of 
American  life  and  self-understanding. 

MARGARET  CULKIN  BANNING 
Duluth 


Preface 


There  are  few  vacation  lands  that  can  rival  Minnesota's  Arrowhead 
Country  in  sheer  diversity  of  interest.  Almost  literally,  the  region  has 
everything  —  rockbound  lakes  and  lakes  surrounded  by  grassy  meadows, 
tranquil  and  turbulent  rivers,  hill  farms  and  level  plowland,  industries  large 
and  small,  luxuriously  appointed  summer  resorts  and  isolated  beauty  spots 
that  are  accessible  only  to  the  hiker  with  pup-tent.  Among  its  rock  out- 
croppings,  the  oldest  geological  formations  known  to  man,  have  arisen  some 
of  the  Northwest's  newest  settlements.  Men  and  machines,  clawing  out  its 
rich  pockets  of  ore,  have  scarred  the  surface  of  the  Iron  Range  with  huge, 
almost  terrifying  chasms  —  and  built  beside  their  waste  heaps  some  of  the 
finest  school  buildings  in  the  world. 

It  is  strange,  in  view  of  all  this,  that  so  little  has  been  written  about  the 
Minnesota  Arrowhead  Country.  Such  a  region  deserves  to  be  widely 
known,  and  strangers,  equally  with  its  residents,  can  enjoy  reading  its  story. 

In  THE  MINNESOTA  ARROWHEAD  COUNTRY,  that  story 
has  been  written  by  those  who  know  it  best  because  they  are  a  part  of  it. 
The  book,  from  beginning  to  end,  is  the  work  of  Arrowhead  people.  The 
illustrations  are  not  merely  typical  of  the  region  —  they  are  actual  Arrow- 
head pictures. 

For  the  supplying  of  up-to-date  information  on  Arrowhead  communi- 
ties, we  are  indebted  to  chambers  of  commerce  and  other  local  civic  organi- 
zations. We  are  grateful  to  the  St.  Louis  County  Historical  Society  and 
its  secretary,  Otto  Wieland,  and  to  Librarian  Jane  Morey  and  the  staff  of 
the  Duluth  Public  Library  for  their  generous  cooperation.  Thanks  are  due 
especially  to  Mrs.  Frieda  J.  Monger,  who  supervised  the  writing  of  the 
final  text,  to  Mrs.  Margaret  Culkin  Banning  for  the  Introduction,  and  to  all 
the  other  members  of  the  co-sponsor's  advisory  committee.  The  roster  of 
the  committee,  serving  under  Mrs.  Banning  as  chairman  and  Mrs.  Monger 
as  co-chairman,  is  as  follows:  Miss  Jane  Morey,  Messrs.  S.  Valentine  Saxby, 


v 


Vlll  PREFACE 

J.  R.  Pratt,  J.  H.  Jordan,  Lewis  G.  Castle,  V.  E.  Fairbanks,  W.  E.  Culkin, 
Otto  E.  Wieland,  J.  H.  Darling,  Dwight  E.  Woodbridge,  Eugene  W. 
Bohannon,  A.  W.  Taylor,  G.  A.  Andresen,  George  J.  Barrett  and  W.  A. 
Putman. 

Much  helpful  information  and  advice  was  given  by  officials  of  the  Oliver 
Mining  Company,  by  the  U.  S.  Engineer's  office  in  Duluth,  and  by  repre- 
sentatives of  the  United  States  Forest  Service  stationed  in  the  Minnesota 
Arrowhead. 

For  maps  and  jacket  design,  we  are  indebted  to  the  Minnesota  WPA 
Art  Project. 

ROSCOE  MACY,  State  Supervisor 
Minnesota   WPA   Writers'  Project 


^^^^^o^^^^^^^^o^^^^o^^^^^^^^^^ 


Contents 


*&v<0V<0Ks0^0T^*^<<0^0Ks0r*^i^ 

PAGE 

INTRODUCTION  by  Margaret  Culkin  Banning v 

PREFACE vii 

GENERAL  INFORMATION  xvii 


Part  1:  The  General  Background 

PAST  AND  PRESENT 3 

GEOLOGY 4 

FIRST  INHABITANTS 5 

THE  WHITE  MAN  COMES 5 

EARLY  FUR  TRADING 8 

COPPER  AND  GOLD  EXPLORATION IO 

SAW  LOG  IS  KING 12 

THE  IRON  ORE  RANGES 14 

FROM  CANOE  TO  AIRPLANE 18 

AGRICULTURE 20 

PRESS  AND  RADIO 21 

FOLKLORE  AND  FESTIVALS 23 

THE  ARROWHEAD  TODAY 25 

RECREATION  AND  SPORTS 26 

SOCIAL  WORK 27 

ARTS  AND  LETTERS 28 

GREAT  UNSALTED  SEA 29 

GRAND  PORTAGE 30 

FROM  SAIL  TO  STEAM 31 

DULUTH-SUPERIOR  HARBOR 33 

COMMERCIAL  FISHING 35 

ix 


Part  11:  National  Forests 


CONTE  NTS 


PAGE 


CHIPPEWA  NATIONAL  FOREST 39 

SUPERIOR  NATIONAL  FOREST 45 

INFORMATION  FOR  CANOEISTS 49 

CANOE  TRIP  1 49 

CANOE  TRIP  2 52 

CANOE  TRIP  3 52 

CANOE  TRIP  4 53 

CANOE  TRIP  5 55 

CANOE  TRIP  6 55 

CANOE  TRIP  7 57 

CANOE  TRIP  8 59 

CANOE  TRIP  9 60 

CANOE  TRIP  10 60 

CANOE  TRIP  11 62 

CANOE  TRIP  12 63 

CANOE  TRIP  13 64 

CANOE  TRIP  14 65 

CANOE  TRIP  15 67 

Part  111:  Cities,  Towns  and  Villages 

AlTKIN 71 

AURORA 73 

BARNUM 74 

BEAVER  BAY 75 

BEMIDJI 76 

BENA 79 

BIG  FALLS 80 

BIWABIK 81 

BLACKDUCK 83 

BOVEY 84 

BRAINERD 85 

BUHL 87 

CALUMET 89 

CARLTON 90 


CONTENTS  XI 

PAGE 

CASS  LAKE 92 

CHISHOLM 93 

CLOQUET 95 

COLERAINE 97 

COOK 98 

CROSBY 99 

DEER  RIVER 101 

DULUTH — WITH  CITY  TOURS 102 

ELY 119 

EMBARRASS 121 

EVELETH 122 

FLOODWOOD 124 

GILBERT 125 

GRAND  MARAIS 127 

GRAND  RAPIDS 128 

RIBBING 130 

INTERNATIONAL  FALLS 134 

IRONTON 136 

KEEWATIN 137 

KlNNEY 138 

LlTTLEFORK 139 

McGREGOR 140 

MARBLE 142 

[OOSE  LAKE 143 

[OUNTAIN   IRON 144 

FASHWAUK 146 

FORTHOME 147 

148 

'ROCTOR 149 

"OWER 150 

HARBORS 152 

!RGINIA 154 

rALKER 157 


Xll  CONTENTS 

Part  IV:  Tours 

PAGE 

ARROWHEAD  TOUR  i 161 

TO  SEE  NORTH  SHORE 

ARROWHEAD  TOUR  2 170 

TO  SEE  OPEN  PIT  MINES 

ARROWHEAD  TOUR  3 175 

TO  SEE  BORDER  AND  FARMS 

ARROWHEAD  TOUR  4 183 

TO  SEE  UNDERGROUND  MINES 

Part  V:  Appendices 

COMMERCIAL  AND  INDUSTRIAL  DATA 191 

INDUSTRIAL  STATISTICS 191 

AGRICULTURAL  STATISTICS 192 

HARBOR  STATISTICS 193 

DOCKS  AND  TERMINALS 196 

SHIPS  AND  THEIR  LANGUAGE 196 

GLOSSARY 198 

CHRONOLOGY 201 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 211 

INDEX 217 


*J&V0^0r*^*0K<0V^rxj0r«j0r)^^ 


List  of  Illustrations 


INTO  THE  PRIMITIVE Frontispiece 

PAST  AND  PRESENT 

FACING  PAGE 

NATIVE  CHIPPEWA  FAMILY 10 

INDIAN  CEMETERY  AT  GRAND  PORTAGE 10 

ARROWHEAD  CHIPPEWA  IN  GALA  ATTIRE n 

OLD  FORT  AT  FOND  DU  LAC n 

SPLIT  ROCK  LIGHTHOUSE 26 

VIEW  FROM  AERIAL  LIFT  BRIDGE,  DULUTH 26 

FISHING  PARTY 27 

GOLFING  AT  DULUTH 27 

THE  GREAT  UNSALTED  SEA 

JRAND  PORTAGE 30 

ILUTH  HARBOR  AT  NIGHT 30 

.D  FASHIONED  ORE  CARRIER 31 

[ODERN  ORE  BOAT 31 

IN  THE  FORESTS 

RUNNING  THE  RAPIDS 42 

riEW  OF  BEARSKIN  LAKE 42 

LGANAGA  LAKE,  MINNESOTA  ARROWHEAD 43 

TRYST  WITH  THE  TROUT 43 

riNTER  TRAIL  IN  THE  ARROWHEAD 58 

xiii 


XIV  LIST     OF     ILLUSTRATIONS 

IN  THE  FORESTS  (continued) 

FACING  PAGE 

WHERE  THE  WATERS  DIVIDE 58 

INDIANS  AT  RED  LAKE 59 

LAKE  TROUT,  BASSWOOD  LAKE 59 

OUTDOORS  FOR  HEALTH po 

MARIE  SARKIPATO 90 

WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  FORESTS 

"MAYBE  I  BETTER  BE  COIN'!" 91 

WHITE  TAILED  DEER,  TAKEN  BY  SURPRISE 91 

MONARCH  OF  THE  ARROWHEAD 91 

LAND-LOCKED  SALMON  CAUGHT  AT  SEA  GULL  LAKE 106 

INDIVIDUAL  SPECIMENS  OF  FISH 106 

AN  ARROWHEAD  RENDEZVOUS 107 

SUPPER  IN  CAMP 107 

CITIES,  TOWNS  AND  VILLAGES 

SPORTSMEN'S  SHOW  EXHIBIT 118 

HANDS  ACROSS  THE  BORDER 118 

SMALL  ARROWHEAD  POULTRY  FARM 119 

ARROWHEAD  POTATOES  IN  BLOOM 119 

COMMERCE  AND  INDUSTRY 

OLD  MAN  MENDING  His  NET 144 

OLD  TIME  TRAPPER 144 

LANDING  THE  CATCH 145 

MAKING  NETS 145 

SHAFT  OF  AN  UNDERGROUND  MINE 178 

ORE  WASHING  PLANT 178 

THE  OPEN  PIT  METHOD  OF  MINING  ON  THE  GREAT  MESABI  IRON  RANGE  178 

ELECTRIC  SHOVEL  IN  USE 178 

EARLY  LOGGING  SCENE  IN  THE  ARROWHEAD 179 

PAUL  BUNYAN  AND  His  BLUE  Ox,  BABE 179 

AN  ARROWHEAD  PAPER  MILL 179 


<4?*4r«4?^0^0™<0*4?^r*4?^ 


List  of  Maps 


MINNESOTA  ARROWHEAD  REGION End  Paper 

PAGE 

ARROWHEAD  TOUR  1 163 

ARROWHEAD  TOUR  2 171 

ARROWHEAD  TOUR  3 177 

ARROWHEAD  TOUR  4 185 


General  Information 


Railroads:  Big  Fork  &  International  Falls;  Chicago,  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis 
&  Omaha;  Duluth,  Missabe  &  Iron  Range;  Duluth,  South  Shore  &  Atlantic; 
Duluth,  Winnipeg  &  Pacific  (Canadian  National);  Great  Northern;  Min- 
neapolis, Red  Lake  &  Manitoba;  Minneapolis,  St.  Paul  &  Sault  Ste.  Marie; 
Minnesota,  Dakota  &  Western;  Minnesota  &  International;  Northern 
Pacific. 

Bus  Lines:  Northern  Transportation  Co.;  Northland  Greyhound  Lines; 
Triangle  Transportation  Co. 

Passenger  Steamship  Lines:  Canadian  Steamship  Lines;  Chicago,  Duluth, 
&  Georgian  Bay  Transit  Co.;  H.  Christiansen  &  Sons. 

Air  Lines:    Northwest  Airlines,  Inc. 

Highways:  US  2  through  Duluth  to  northwestern  part  of  State;  US  53 
through  Duluth  to  International  Falls  on  the  Canadian  border;  US  61  from 
Minneapolis  and  St.  Paul  through  Duluth  to  Canadian  border  at  Pigeon 
River;  US  71  from  International  Falls  on  the  Canadian  border  through 
Bemidji  to  southern  part  of  State;  US  169  from  Minneapolis  and  St.  Paul 
through  the  Cuyuna  Range  and  the  Mesabi  Range  to  connect  with  State  i; 
US  210  from  Duluth  through  Cuyuna  Range  to  connect  with  US  10; 
US  371  from  US  10  at  Little  Falls  through  Brainerd  to  connect  with  US  2 
at  Cass  Lake;  State  23  from  Duluth  through  Fond  du  Lac  to  connect 
with  US  61  as  Sandstone.  (All  main  highways  are  kept  open  throughout 
the  winter.) 

Traffic  Regulation  (digest):  Maximum  speed,  60  miles  per  hour  in  day 
time;  50  m.  p.  h.  at  night  or  at  any  time  when  persons  and  vehicles  on 
the  highway  at  a  distance  of  500  feet  ahead  are  not  clearly  discernible; 

xvii 


XV111  GENERAL    INFORMATION 

30  m.  p.  h.  in  any  municipality.  Nonresident  may  operate  motor  vehicle 
3  months  on  out-of-state  license.  Minimum  age  for  drivers,  15  years.  "No 
Passing"  zone  barrier  lines  are  marked  by  solid  yellow  stripes  paralleling 
the  center  line  of  pavement.  Driver's  license  must  be  carried  at  all  times 
and  exhibited  on  official  demand.  Headlights  must  be  depressed  when 
approaching  an  oncoming  vehicle. 

Accommodations:  The  Minnesota  Arrowhead  has  good,  year-round  hotels 
in  the  larger  communities.  There  are  resorts  with  modern  facilities  in  all 
parts  of  the  region,  some  open  throughout  the  year,  others  only  in  season. 
Tourist  homes  and  tourist  camps  dot  the  highways,  and  attractive  wilder- 
ness campsites  are  to  be  found  throughout  the  forest  areas. 

Information  Services:  Minnesota  Arrowhead  Association,  Hotel  Duluth, 
cor.  3rd  Ave.  E.  and  Superior  St.,  Duluth,  maintains  an  all-year  bureau 
and  two  summer  bureaus;  Duluth  Chamber  of  Commerce,  Medical  Arts 
Building,  324  W.  Superior  St.,  Duluth,  maintains  an  all-year  bureau  and 
a  summer  bureau;  West  Duluth  Business  Men's  Club,  Ramsey  St.  bet.  56th 
and  Grand  Aves.,  in  cooperation  with  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead  Associa- 
tion, maintains  a  summer  bureau;  West  End  Business  and  Civic  Club, 
Curtis  Hotel,  2001  W.  Superior  St.,  in  cooperation  with  the  Minnesota 
Arrowhead  Association,  maintains  a  summer  bureau.  For  other  Arrow- 
head communities,  see  Cities,  Towns  and  Villages. 

Hunting  and  Fishing:  Following  is  a  digest  of  Minnesota  hunting  and 
fishing  regulations: 

Fishing  Laws:  The  Arrowhead  region  is  in  the  northern  fishing  zone  of 
Minnesota.  Game  fish  are  designated  as  wall-eyed  pike,  sand  pike  or 
saugers,  great  northern  pike  or  pickerel,  muskellunge,  crappies,  bass,  sun- 
fish,  catfish,  trout,  lake  trout  (landlocked  salmon).  Rough  fish  are  bull- 
heads, whitefish,  carp,  dogfish,  redhorse,  buffalofish,  suckers,  sheepshead. 

Open  Season:  Wall-eyed  pike,  sand  pike  or  saugers,  great  northern  pike 
or  pickerel,  muskellunge,  May  15  to  Feb.  15;  crappies,  June  21  to  Feb.  15; 
bass  (large-mouth,  small-mouth,  and  yellow),  June  21  to  Dec.  i;  sunfish, 
rock  bass,  catfish,  June  21  to  Jan.  i;  trout  (except  lake  trout),  May  i  to 
Sept.  i;  lake  trout  (landlocked  salmon),  Dec.  i  to  Sept.  15  (except  Lake 
Superior,  Oct.  i);  bullheads,  whitefish,  carp,  dogfish,  redhorse,  buffalofish, 
suckers,  sheepshead,  May  i  to  Mar.  i. 


GENERAL     INFORMATION  XIX 

Licenses:  Nonresident,  16  years  of  age  or  over,  $3.00;  resident,  18  years 
of  age  or  over,  $1.00.  Two-coupon  shipping  license,  fee  $1.00,  permits  non- 
resident to  ship  to  himself  up  to  20  pounds  of  game  fish,  dressed  weight — 
10  pounds  or  less  per  coupon. 

Limits:  Wall-eyed  pike,  8  per  day,  12  in  possession;  sand  pike  or  saugers, 
8  per  day,  12  in  possession;  great  northern  pike  or  pickerel,  8  per  day,  12  in 
possession;  perch  (yellow),  no  limit,  but  subject  to  restrictions  by  com- 
missioner to  fix  limits  of  25  per  day;  muskellunge,  2  per  day,  2  in  pos- 
session; crappie  (black  and  white),  15  per  day,  25  in  possession;  bass 
(large-mouth,  small-mouth,  and  yellow),  6  per  day,  12  in  possession;  trout 
(except  lake  trout),  15  per  day,  25  trout  or  20  pounds  in  possession;  lake 
trout  (landlocked  salmon),  5  per  day,  10  in  possession;  sunfish,  rock  bass, 
and  all  other  kinds  of  fish  for  which  a  specific  limit  is  not  provided,  and 
excluding  those  kinds  with  no  limit,  15  per  day,  30  in  possession;  bullheads, 
50  per  day,  50  in  possession;  no  limit  to  carp,  dogfish,  redhorse,  sheepshead, 
suckers,  eelpout,  garfish,  whitefish  (not  less  than  16  inches),  buffalofish 
(not  less  than  15  inches). 

Unlawful:  To  take  fish  by  means  of  explosives,  drugs,  poisons,  lime, 
medicated  bait,  fish  berries,  or  other  deleterious  substances,  or  by  nets, 
trot  lines,  wire  strings,  ropes,  and  cables.  To  have  in  possession  fish  nets 
(except  minnow  nets,  landing  nets,  and  dip  nets),  unless  tagged  and 
licensed  by  the  Game  and  Fish  Director;  legel  nets  in  possession  of 
licensed  commercial  fishermen  excepted.  To  fish  with  more  than  one  line 
or  more  than  one  bait,  except  that  3  artificial  flies  may  be  used.  To  fish 
within  50  feet  of  a  fishway.  To  deposit  sawdust  or  refuse  or  poisonous 
substance  in  waters  containing  fish  life.  To  buy  or  sell  game  fish,  except 
fish  taken  under  commercial  license.  To  retain  game  fish  after  April  i  in 
the  year  following  the  open  season.  To  take  or  possess,  at  any  time,  rock 
or  lake  sturgeon.  To  take  shovel-nose  or  hackle-back  sturgeon,  spoonbill, 
or  paddlefish  from  inland  waters.  To  take  fish  in  any  manner  other  than 
by  angling,  except  as  spearing  or  netting  of  certain  kinds  is  expressly  per- 
mitted. To  take  fish  from  public  water  closed  by  order  of  director. 

Small  Game  Hunting  Laws:  Summary  of  small  game  hunting  regulations: 

Open  Season:  Shooting  of  prairie  chicken,  grouse,  partridge  and  pheasant 
permitted  during  fall  in  areas  defined  yearly.  No  open  season  on  spruce 
grouse  or  wild  turkey.  Hunting  of  migratory  wildfowl  subject  to  Federal 
and  State  regulation.  Seasons  established  each  year  for  taking  of  gray  and 
fox  squirrel,  cottontail  and  snowshoe  hare. 


XX  GENERAL    INFORMATION 

Licenses:  Nonresident,  $25;  resident,  16  years  of  age  or  over,  $1.00,  which 
must  be  purchased  in  the  county  in  which  the  applicant  resides. 

Limits:  Bag  limits  on  migratory  birds  and  upland  game  are  subject  to 
annual  change.  Shooting  dates  are  not  printed  on  licenses,  but  are  pre- 
scribed in  press  releases  issued  by  Federal  and  State  authorities  shortly 
before  opening  dates. 

Unlawful:  To  use  a  hunting  license  or  coupon  of  another  person;  to  hunt 
in  any  State  park  or  game  refuge;  to  take  migratory  game  birds  with  rifle 
or  pistol  or  in  any  other  way  than  with  shotgun  not  larger  than  lo-gauge 
fired  from  shoulder,  or  with  bow  and  arrow;  to  take  migratory  game  birds 
with  automatic  or  hand-operated  repeating  shotgun  holding  more  than  3 
shells;  to  shoot  game  from  a  motor  vehicle  or  to  carry  firearms  therein 
unless  taken  apart  or  contained  in  a  case,  unloaded  in  both  barrels  and 
magazine;  to  bait  hunting  grounds  for  taking  migratory  waterfowl  and 
mourning  doves;  to  use  live  decoys  for  migratory  waterfowl;  to  transport 
protected  game  without  official  tags. 

Big  Game  Hunting  Laws:    Summary  of  big  game  hunting  regulations: 

Open  Season:  Deer,  bear  (only  in  even-numbered  years),  Nov.  15  to 
Nov.  25,  inclusive;  with  bow  and  arrow  only,  Itasca  County  only,  Nov.  i 
to  Nov.  5,  inclusive.  No  open  season  for  moose,  caribou,  elk. 

Licenses:  Nonresident,  $50.25;  resident,  $2.25,  which  must  be  purchased 
in  the  county  where  applicant  resides. 

Limits:    One  bear  and  one  deer  of  any  age  or  of  either  sex. 

Unlawful:  To  use  artificial  lights  in  taking  deer;  to  use  snares,  traps,  set 
or  swivel  guns;  to  employ  salt  lick  or  other  devices  to  entice  or  entrap 
deer;  to  shoot  deer  from  any  artificial  platform  higher  than  6  feet;  to  use 
dogs  for  hunting  of  deer;  to  keep  dogs  about  hunting  camp  in  deer  hunting 
area;  to  keep  or  transport  deer  if  not  tagged  with  license  tag  "B"  and 
sealed  with  metal  lock  seal  immediately  after  killing;  to  keep  deer  more 
than  5  days  after  close  of  season  if  not  tagged  by  proper  official. 

Border  Regulations:  United  States  Customs  Offices  at  International  Falls 
are  open  day  and  night;  at  Pigeon  River  they  are  open  from  6  a.m.  to 
u  p.m.  between  May  15  and  Sept.  30,  and  from  7  a.m.  to  12  midnight 
between  Oct.  i  and  May  14.  No  passports  are  required.  United  States 
citizens,  native-born  as  well  as  naturalized,  should  carry  identification 


GENERAL    INFORMATION 


XXI 


papers.  (Temporary  restriction:  Former  subjects  of  enemies  of  Great 
Britain  are  not  permitted,  at  the  present  time,  to  enter  Canada  unless  they 
have  received  special  permission  from  Canadian  authorities  in  advance.) 
Purchases  in  Canada  up  to  $100,  if  for  personal  use,  may  be  brought  back 
duty-free  provided  the  resident  has  remained  outside  the  territorial  limits 
of  the  United  States  for  48  hours.  The  $100  exemption  may  include  cigar- 
ettes, tobacco,  foodstuffs,  not  more  than  100  cigars,  and  not  more  than  one 
wine  gallon  of  alcoholic  beverages. 

Climate:  Spring  arrives  late  in  the  Arrowhead,  especially  along  the  shores 
of  Lake  Superior.  Summers  are  comparatively  cool.  Autumn  is  pro- 
longed by  the  moderating  influence  of  the  lake.  Winters,  as  a  rule,  are 
severe.  Tourists  and  sportsmen  should  be  prepared  for  sudden  changes  in 
temperature. 

Prohibited:  Picking  of  the  moccasin  flower  (Cypripedium  spectabile)  and 
the  trillium. 

Poisonous  Plants:  Poison  ivy,  a  climbing  plant  with  trifoliate  leaves,  and 
poison  oak  (poison  sumac),  usually  prevalent  in  swamps,  are  found  in  the 
region.  Laundry  soap  may  be  used  both  as  a  preventive  and  as  a  first-aid 
remedy. 

(Note:    There  are  no  venomous  snakes  in  the  Arrowhead  region.) 


<4?v4r*s0r*<0rK0Ks0*j0*4r*s&*& 


PART  I 


The  General  Background 


Past  and  Present 


<^0r*<0*^*^*&V*0K^0K^*<0V<0^ 

THE  MINNESOTA  ARROWHEAD  is  a  region  of  superlatives. 
It  contains  the  State's  most  rugged  topography,  lowest  and 
highest  altitudes,  its  only  three-way  watershed,  and  richest  iron 
ore  deposits;  its  finest  trout  streams  and  best  deer  hunting;  greatest 
national  forest,  the  Superior;  longest  and  wildest  canoe  trips;  its  most 
elaborately  equipped  schools;  its  largest  county,  St.  Louis,  one  of  the 
most  extensive  in  the  nation,  covering  6,611.75  square  miles  and  hav- 
ing, in  addition  to  the  courthouse  in  Duluth,  two  full-time  auxiliary 
courthouses,  at  Hibbing  and  Virginia,  and  one  part-time  courthouse, 
at  Ely. 

In  1924,  the  Northeastern  Minnesota  Civic  and  Commerce  Asso- 
ciation sponsored  an  international  contest  for  naming  the  area.  An 
observing  Pittsburgher,  Odin  MacCrickart,  noted  that  the  boundaries 
outlined  by  the  association  roughly  suggested  the  form  of  an  Indian 
arrowhead.  His  proposed  name,  "Minnesota  Arrowhead,"  was  ad- 
judged best  of  the  30,000  letters  submitted. 

A  glance  at  the  map  will  show  that  the  tip  of  the  Arrowhead  is 
marked  by  Pigeon  Point,  one  side  by  the  Canadian  boundary  of  rivers 
and  lakes,  the  base  by  a  curving  line  from  International  Falls,  through 
Bemidji,  Brainerd,  Aitkin,  Moose  Lake,  and  Carl  ton,  to  Duluth,  and 
the  other  side  by  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Superior.  The  air-line  dis- 
tance from  east  to  west,  Pigeon  Point  to  Bemidji,  is  about  260  miles; 
from  north  to  south,  International  Falls  to  Malmo,  it  is  about  160 
miles.  The  area  approximates  20,500  square  miles,  or  more  than 
13,000,000  acres.  Included  are  all  or  parts  of  the  following  counties: 
Cook,  Lake,  St.  Louis,  Carlton,  Itasca,  Aitkin,  Koochiching,  Beltrami, 
Crow  Wing,  Hubbard,  and  Cass. 

Altitudes  range  from  602  feet,  the  level  of  Lake  Superior,  to  2,230 
feet  in  Cook  County,  the  average  being  about  1,400  feet.  The  "Saw- 

3 


4  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

tooth  Range,"  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  1),  just  back  of  the  north  shore 
of  Lake  Superior  and  paralleling  it  from  about  Beaver  Bay  to  Grand 
Marais,  has  an  abrupt  elevation  of  from  500  to  900  feet  above  lake 
level.  Only  the  smaller  part  of  the  Arrowhead  is  prairie  land,  and 
that  is  in  the  western  section. 

Of  the  region's  population  of  about  350,000,  nearly  two-thirds  live 
in  Duluth  and  the  other  municipalities.  The  majority  of  the  remain- 
ing one-third  is  engaged  in  farming. 

GEOLOGY 

The  geological  setting  of  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead  region  is  linked 
to  the  very  earliest  period  in  the  life  of  the  earth — the  Archean.  It  is, 
of  course,  not  possible  to  trace  the  long  procession  of  events  during 
this  period.  However,  scientists  usually  are  agreed  that  it  was  in  the 
seas  of  this  geologic  age  that  the  iron  formations  of  the  Vermilion 
Range  accumulated. 

Although  many  theories  have  been  advanced  to  account  for  the 
iron  in  the  Arrowhead  ranges,  it  generally  is  believed  that  the  iron 
formations  (iron  oxide,  silica,  etc.)  were  discharged  into  the  sea  water 
by  either  deposition  or  seepage,  or  both.  The  fact  that  the  Minnesota 
ranges  are  similar  in  age  and  general  character  to  certain  iron  forma- 
tions in  all  other  continents  seems  to  indicate  they  are  but  part  of  a 
more  or  less  continuous  metalliferous  zone,  here  exposed  by  volcanic 
action  and  by  streams  and  glaciers. 

Eons  followed  the  accumulation  of  the  iron  formations;  then  some- 
thing manifested  itself  that  was  to  change  the  area.  From  the  depths 
of  the  earth  a  gigantic  mass  of  molten  rock  (batholith)  had  been 
rising,  pushing  aside  or  melting  and  assimilating  the  rocks  above  it. 
As  it  neared  the  surface,  it  domed  the  earth's  crust  into  a  mountain 
range;  lava  belched  forth,  the  roof  collapsed,  and  the  resulting  chasm 
became  the  basin  of  Lake  Superior. 

On  the  northern  highlands  of  the  continent,  during  the  most  recent 
glacial  period,  a  huge  ice  cap  slowly  formed,  and  gradually  moved 
southward  until  the  entire  area  was  covered  by  a  vast  sheet  of  ice. 
Under  its  weight,  the  continent  sank.  With  the  melting  of  the  glacier, 
waters  collected  over  the  sunken  land  to  make  Lake  Agassiz,  probably 
the  largest  fresh-water  lake  the  world  has  ever  known,  and  smaller 
lakes,  among  them  Lake  Duluth,  which  occupied  the  western  part 
of  the  Lake  Superior  basin. 


PAST    AND     PRESENT  5 

As  the  ice  sheet  receded,  it  left  extensive  deposits.  Some  of  these, 
spread  thinly  across  the  surface,  became  the  till  plain;  others,  piled  up, 
appeared  as  hills,  moraines,  or  the  gravel  ridges  called  eskers.  Some 
of  the  glacial  deposits  were  rich  in  pulverized  granite,  slate,  lava,  sand- 
stone, and  limestone,  and  these  produced  the  soil  that  today  makes  up 
the  better  agricultural  areas  of  the  region.  Other  glacial  deposits  bore 
the  great  forests  that  were  destined  ages  later  to  become  a  nation's 
playground — the  Minnesota  Arrowhead. 

FIRST  INHABITANTS 

The  time  of  arrival  in  this  region  of  the  first  inhabitants,  as  well 
as  their  racial  stock,  is  hidden  in  the  obscurity  of  prehistoric  time. 
They  may  have  been  the  ones  who  worked  the  ancient  copper  mines 
on  Isle  Royale  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  1),  leaving  traces  of  an  engineer- 
ing skill  far  surpassing  that  of  the  natives  found  by  the  explorers. 

The  Dakota  (Sioux)  are  supposed  to  have  been  the  earliest  of  the 
Indian  tribes  in  this  area,  as  evidenced  by  fragments  of  pottery  and 
other  artifacts  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  8).  They  were  superseded  by 
the  Ojibway — or  Chippewa,  as  the  white  man  interpreted  the  Indian 
name.  These  were  of  Algonquian  stock  and  when  first  encountered 
by  white  explorers  early  in  the  seventeenth  century  were  living  in  the 
Lake  Superior  region.  In  the  course  of  westward  migration,  they 
occupied  the  territory  around  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  being  called  Saulteurs. 
Later  they  established  a  settlement  along  Chequamegon  Bay  and  on 
Madeline  Island  (La  Pointe),  north  of  Ashland,  Wisconsin.  By  suc- 
cessive contests  against  the  warring  Sioux,  they  gradually  extended 
their  domain,  until  in  the  eighteenth  century  they  were  in  control  of 
all  of  northern  Minnesota. 

THE  WHITE  MAN  COMES 

The  identity  of  the  first  white  men  to  set  foot  in  Minnesota  is  still 
a  subject  of  dispute,  but  most  historical  records  give  credit  to  Pierre 
d'Esprit,  Sieur  de  Radisson,  and  Medard  Chouart,  Sieur  des  Groseil- 
liers.  Born  in  France,  these  brothers-in-law  came  adventuring  to  the 
Arrowhead  between  1655  and  1660,  when  Radisson  was  little  more 
than  a  boy.  For  their  joint  ventures  in  trail  blazing  and  fur  trading 
they  must  have  been  admirable  partners,  as  the  young  Radisson's  thirst 
for  adventure  was  complemented  at  every  turn  by  the  mercenary 
shrewdness  of  Groseilliers. 


0  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD     COUNTRY 

The  first  flotilla  of  furs  they  took  to  Quebec  from  the  Northwest 
was  valued  at  200,000  livres  ($40,000);  the  second,  which  was  con- 
fiscated, has  been  estimated  to  have  been  worth  as  much  as  $300,000. 
Their  success  in  fur  trading  aroused  the  envy  of  their  greedy  superiors 
in  eastern  Canada,  and  they  were  proscribed  as  coureurs  de  bois,  or 
unlicensed  traders.  Groseilliers  was  thrown  into  a  Montreal  prison, 
despite  repeated  protests  that  all  their  activities  were  motivated  solely 
by  patriotism,  and  that  it  was  only  when  they  refused  to  share  their 
spoils  with  the  governor  that  their  trading  licenses  were  withheld. 
Outraged  by  their  own  country's  ingratitude,  they  turned  to  England 
and  there  published  the  narrative  that  was  responsible,  at  least  in  part, 
for  the  chartering  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  in  1670. 

Their  various  voyages  covered  a  quarter  of  a  century.  It  has  been 
inferred,  chiefly  on  the  evidence  of  an  old  map,  that  between  1655  and 
1663  they  came  twice  to  Minnesota  and  traded  at  Fond  du  Lac,  French 
for  "end  of  the  lake,"  as  the  entire  region  at  the  head  of  the  lakes  was 
called. 

Although  many  of  the  stories  carried  to  Europe  were  fantastic  ex- 
aggerations, the  Northwest  had  proved  that  it  contained  furs  enough 
to  meet  the  exorbitant  demands  of  greedy  courtiers,  and  potential  wealth 
vast  enough  to  tempt  even  monarchs.  Nicolas  Perrot  was  dispatched 
to  the  Upper  Lakes,  and  he  persuaded  the  tribal  chiefs  to  assemble  at 
the  Sault,  where  on  June  14,  1671,  Simon  Francois  Daumont,  Sieur  de 
St.  Lusson,  took  formal  possession  for  France  "of  all  countries  dis- 
covered or  to  be  discovered  between  the  Northern,  Western,  and 
Southern  Seas  .  .  ."  Father  Claude  Allouez,  a  Jesuit  already  at  home 
on  the  inland  rivers  (he  had  visited  the  place  where  Duluth  now 
stands),  enjoined  the  Indians'  allegiance  to  the  French  King. 

Jean  Baptiste  Talon,  Intendant  of  New  France  (Canada),  in  1673 
chose  Louis  Jolliet  and  Father  Jacques  Marquette  to  explore  the  region 
of  the  Mississippi.  Marquette,  who  was  familiar  with  several  Indian 
tongues,  died  before  completing  the  journey,  but  Jolliet's  reports  on 
the  potentialities  of  the  fur  trade  so  delighted  the  Governor  General, 
Louis  de  Buade,  Comte  de  Frontenac,  that  he  immediately  planned  a 
new  trade  expedition  into  the  area.  After  dispatching  his  engineer, 
Hugues  Randin,  to  the  head  of  the  lakes  to  distribute  gifts,  he  be- 
stowed official  approval  upon  Daniel  Greysolon,  Sieur  du  Lhut,  the 
choice  of  the  Montreal  merchants,  as  leader  of  the  new  trading 
venture. 

Du  Lhut,  or  Du  Luth,  born  about  1636  in  St.  Germain-en-Laye, 


PAST    AND     PRESENT  7 

France,  was  the  most  striking  of  all  the  Arrowhead's  explorers.  He 
had  renounced  an  enviable  position  in  the  Royal  Guard  of  Louis  XIV 
to  go  to  New  France.  In  September,  1678 — for  reasons  unknown — he 
turned  his  back  on  cities  and  civilization,  and  embarked  from  Montreal 
upon  the  first  of  the  voyages  that  were  to  result  in  breath-taking 
dangers,  romance,  and  fame.  Pushing  farther  and  farther  west,  he 
claimed  for  his  mother  country  all  the  territory  he  visited.  Wherever 
he  went,  his  fearlessness  and  tact  won  the  friendship  and  admiration 
of  even  the  most  hostile  Indians. 

In  1679,  he  was  wintering  at  the  Sault;  by  June  27,  he  had  reached 
Little  Portage,  the  base  of  Minnesota  Point;  by  midsummer,  he  had 
visited  Mille  Lacs  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  3).  On  September  15,  he 
called  a  council  of  all  the  northern  tribes  to  meet  with  him  near  the 
site  of  the  present  Duluth,  for  the  purpose  of  establishing  peace  and 
pledging  friendship.  His  dramatic  meeting  with  the  Franciscan  mis- 
sionary, Father  Louis  Hennepin,  who  had  accompanied  an  expedition 
sent  to  the  upper  Mississippi  by  Robert  Cavelier,  Sieur  de  la  Salle, 
occurred  in  1680.  When  the  priest  and  his  two  companions  were 
made  "enforced  guests"  by  a  band  of  Sioux,  Du  Lhut  set  out  to  rescue 
them.  He  came  upon  them  somewhere  below  the  mouth  of  the 
St.  Croix,  on  the  Mississippi,  and  secured  their  release  by  claiming 
Hennepin  as  his  brother.  Du  Lhut  and  his  augmented  party  re- 
turned to  the  lakes  where  he  pursued  his  fur  trading. 

Records  are  few,  but  it  seems  likely  that  rival  jealousies  were 
responsible  for  Du  Lhut's  incarceration  in  Quebec  in  1681  as  an  un- 
licensed trader.  Challenging  his  accusers,  he  went  to  France  to  clear 
his  name,  and  returned  in  triumph  to  resume  his  adventurous  life. 
In  1679,  he  or  his  brother  Claude  built  Fort  Kaministiquia  near  the 
present  Fort  William  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  1),  where  Jacques  de 
Noyon  may  have  stopped,  about  1688,  when  he  traversed  the  border 
lakes  and  rivers. 

The  supremacy  of  the  French  became  definitely  established  in  the 
Indian  mind  when  Du  Lhut,  in  1683,  informed  of  the  murder  of  two 
fellow-countrymen  on  Lake  Superior,  set  out  with  a  mere  handful  of 
men  for  the  camp  where  the  slayers  had  been  given  shelter.  In  the 
presence  of  a  seething  tribe  that  outnumbered  his  men  ten  to  one,  he 
arrested,  tried,  and  executed  the  pair.  His  amazing  courage,  when 
ranging  through  unbroken  wilderness,  running  uncharted  rapids,  or 
waging  hand-to-hand  conflict  with  savages,  made  him  the  most  color- 
ful figure  in  this  part  of  the  country.  That  all  this  time  he  suffered 


O  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

acutely  from  gout  would  pass  belief,  were  there  not  documented 
evidence.  Retired  to  Montreal  at  last  by  ill  health,  he  died  in  1710 
and  was  buried  at  the  little  church  of  the  Recollects. 

Pierre  Gaultier  de  Varennes,  Sieur  de  la  Verendrye,  gallant  gentle- 
man and  "Columbus  of  the  Old  Northwest,"  haunted  day  and  night 
by  his  dream  of  finding  a  northwest  passage  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  did 
more  than  any  other  man  to  lay  the  foundation  for  the  Arrowhead's 
great  fur  trade  empire.  His  voyages  were  made  between  1731  and 
1742.  With  a  party  that  included  three  sons  and  a  nephew,  he  built 
a  loose  network  of  forts  along  the  lakes  and  rivers  that  now  are  a  part 
of  the  international  boundary,  and  thus  made  possible  the  rapid  ex- 
pansion of  the  trade.  He  and  his  Indian  aide,  Ochagach,  drew  what 
is  considered  the  oldest  map  of  this  border  region,  a  rough  sketch,  but 
one  that  was  to  prove  of  great  assistance  to  later  explorers.  No  fur 
trade,  however  lucrative,  could  divert  him  from  his  dream  of  a  water- 
way to  the  Pacific.  A  brave  but  tragic  figure  of  westward  exploration, 
dogged  by  one  misfortune  after  another,  Verendrye  was  destined  to 
receive  the  Cross  of  St.  Louis  but,  after  his  death,  to  lie  in  an  un- 
marked grave. 

EARLY  FUR  TRADING 

In  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries,  the  decrees  of  Euro- 
pean fashions  increased  the  demand  for  furs.  It  was  the  wealth  to 
be  had  from  the  backs  of  animals,  particularly  the  beaver,  that  opened 
this  territory  to  the  outside  world.  Companies  were  formed  to  handle 
the  extensive  fur  trade  that  developed,  and,  as  the  territory  changed 
hands,  the  control  of  the  industry  passed  from  one  nation  to  another. 

In  barter  with  Indians  the  French  excelled,  intercepting,  even  in 
the  remotest  interior,  pelts  intended  for  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 
They  dominated  the  trade  in  the  area  from  the  time  Radisson  and 
Groseilliers  took  out  the  first  cargo  in  1656  until  France  ceded  Canada 
to  Great  Britain  in  1763.  After  this,  rivalry  grew  so  bitter  between 
the  English  company  and  the  Montreal  and  Quebec  traders,  and 
among  the  traders  themselves,  that  a  group  of  the  latter  organized  for 
self-preservation  what  in  1784  formally  became  the  Northwest  Com- 
pany. 

The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  eventually  gained  supremacy,  largely 
through  its  taking  over  and  buying  the  loyalty  of  many  of  the  French 
traders  and  half-breed  interpreters.  In  the  Arrowhead,  however,  the 


PAST    AND    PRESE  NT 


Northwesters  were  hard  to  uproot.  So  firmly  had  they  established 
themselves  that  even  as  late  as  1805,  22  years  after  this  had  become 
American  territory,  the  visit  of  Lieutenant  Zebulon  M.  Pike  to  acquaint 
the  traders  and  Indians  with  their  new  allegiance  was  received  coldly. 
In  fact,  his  departure  was  followed  by  a  rehoisting  of  British  flags. 
Although  other  companies  sprang  up  from  time  to  time,  the  Hudson's 
Bay,  the  Northwest,  and  the  XY  (a  dissident  group  that  split  off  from 
the  Northwest  Company)  were  the  most  important  in  the  building  up 
of  the  Arrowhead's  commerce  in  furs  until  after  the  War  of  1812. 
Congress  then  excluded  all  foreigners  from  trading  in  United  States 
territory,  and  John  Jacob  Astor's  American  Fur  Company  took  over 
the  entire  domestic  field. 

Under  British  control  the  industry,  with  headquarters  in  Montreal 
and  Quebec,  reached  its  greatest  height.  As  the  fur  traders  penetrated 
deeper  and  deeper  into  the  labyrinth  of  lakes  and  rivers,  a  trade  so 
extensive,  complex,  and  profitable  developed  that  before  long  an 
inland  trading  post  was  required.  The  logical  site  for  such  a  post 
was  Grand  Portage,  the  Lake  Superior  terminus  of  the  Grand  Portage 
Trail,  which  long  had  been  used  by  Indians  and  voyageurs  to  avoid 
the  falls  and  rapids  of  the  lower  Pigeon  River.  The  Arrowhead's 
first  and  most  colorful  white  settlement,  as  well  as  Minnesota's,  was 
this  fur  trading  post.  The  thousands  who  came  to  it  for  business  went 
back  to  spread  far  and  wide  rumors  of  the  country's  riches.  Traffic 
between  Grand  Portage  and  Montreal  and  Quebec  became  so  great 
that  several  hundred  white  traders  and  voyageurs  with  thousands  of 
Indians  were  engaged  in  this  part  of  the  fur  trade. 

The  inland  transportation  of  furs  to  Grand  Portage  was  carried  on 
by  voyageurs  over  the  waterways  of  the  region  in  light  canoes  of  about 
one  and  one-half  tons  capacity.  The  rivers  and  lakes  were  linked  by 
portages,  over  which  the  canoes  and  the  cargo  had  to  be  toted.  The 
furs  were  packed  in  bundles  of  90  pounds  each,  and  two  such  bundles, 
occasionally  even  three,  was  the  average  load  for  a  man. 

Wild  life  seemed  inexhaustible,  but  through  over-exploitation  and 
waste,  the  region  soon  became  almost  depleted  of  furs.  Trade  waned, 
companies  consolidated,  Astor  withdrew  (1834).  Ramsay  Crooks,  who 
since  1809  had  been  connected  with  Astor,  took  control  and  inaugu- 
rated new  policies. 

In  1837  came  a  country-wide  panic,  and  for  the  succeeding  five  de- 
pression years  the  American  Fur  Company,  a  dominant  factor  in 
world  trade,  fought  to  survive.  In  1842,  the  vast  organization  col- 


10  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

lapsed.    Pierre  Chouteau  Jr.  and  Company  of  St.  Louis  took  over  the 
industry  but  discontinued  operations  here  in  1847. 

Bringing  the  first  white  men  into  the  region,  the  fur  trade,  ironi- 
cally enough,  delayed  settlement,  for  the*  fur  companies  well  knew 
that,  once  their  wilderness  was  overrun  by  prospectors  or  settlers,  the 
source  of  their  profits — the  fur-bearing  animals — would  vanish. 

COPPER  AND  GOLD  EXPLORATION 

With  the  disappearance  of  the  fur  trade  as  an  organized  enterprise, 
there  came  a  virtual  standstill  in  the  economic  life  of  the  region.  This 
situation  did  not  change  until  there  was  a  new  influx  of  people.  These 
newcomers  were  El  Dorado  seekers  rather  than  settlers,  interested, 
not  in  what  the  land  might  produce,  but  in  what  it  might  possess. 
They  were  hunting  for  copper. 

Rumors  of  vast  and  varied  mineral  wealth  in  the  wilderness  be- 
yond the  north  shore  of  Lake  Superior  had  long  been  current.  Tales 
of  copper  mines  on  Isle  Royale,  worked  and  abandoned  by  an  un- 
known earlier  race,  had  been  familiar  to  Indians  and  fur  traders.  In 
1746,  it  was  recorded  by  a  voyageur  that  "there  were  found,  north  of 
Lake  Superior,  several  large  lumps  of  the  finest  virgin  copper."  The 
finder  wrote:  "In  the  honest  exultation  of  my  heart  at  so  important 
a  discovery,  I  directly  showed  it  to  the  company  [Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany], but  the  thanks  I  met  with  may  be  judged  by  the  system  of  their 
conduct.  The  fact,  without  any  inquiry  into  the  reality  of  it,  was 
treated  as  a  chimerical  illusion,  and  a  stop  arbitrarily  put  to  all  further 
search  into  the  matter,  by  the  lords  of  the  soil." 

Benjamin  Franklin  heard  of  the  rumors  in  France  and  insisted,  in 
the  Treaty  of  Paris,  1783,  that  Great  Britain  cede  to  the  United  States 
all  the  shore  of  Lake  Superior  from  Pigeon  Point  to  Fond  du  Lac 
and  including  Isle  Royale.  Franklin  regarded  the  securing  of  this 
region  as  one  of  his  greatest  achievements. 

In  1826,  the  Chippewa  granted  the  United  States  the  right  to  ex- 
plore any  part  of  their  country  for  metals  or  minerals.  Oddly  enough, 
however,  there  was  no  rush  for  the  advantages  of  the  grant,  even 
though  prospectors  were  returning  from  the  wilderness  with  proof  of 
the  alleged  rich  deposits.  Some  of  these  men  obtained  licenses  to 
trade  with  the  Indians.  They  built  shelters,  hoping  that  the  Govern- 
ment soon  would  abrogate  the  Indians'  title  to  the  land,  open  the 


(Above)  NATIVE  CHIPPEWA  FAMILY.  Within  the  Arrowhead 
region  today  there  is  an  Indian  population  of  4,464,  all 
Chippewa. 


(Below)  INDIAN  CEMETERY  AT  GRAND  PORTAGE.  The  Indian's  trail 
ends  much  like  the  White  Man's,  and  the  "spirit  houses"  are  as  sugges- 
tive of  finality  as  granite  mausoleums. 

Photograph  by  courtesy  of  the  St.  Louis  County  Historical  Society. 


\  m 


jiiijm^^- 


•IBI 


Photograph  by  courtesy  of  the  Minneap- 
olis Star-Journal. 


(Above}  ARROWHEAD  CHIPPEWA 
IN  GALA  ATTIRE.  With  three 
men  beating  the  drum,  the  dance 
will  be  wild  and  energetic.  Note 
extra  drumstick  in  one  musician's 
pocket. 


(Left)  OLD  FORT  AT  FOND  DU 
LAC.  Block  tower  seen  through 
stockade  door.  This  was  a  clear- 
ing point  for  the  early  fur  trade 
in  central  Minnesota. 


PAST    AND    PRESENT  II 

region  to  white  settlement,  and  legalize  their  claims.  The  Govern- 
ment delayed  action,  so  their  hopes  faded  and  finally  died. 

In  1848,  an  official  exploration  of  the  north  shore  from  Fond  du 
Lac  to  the  Pigeon  River  revealed  a  vein  of  copper  at  French  River 
and  veinstone  and  further  indications  of  metal  at  several  other  points. 
Thereupon,  mining  interests  in  Michigan,  across  the  lake  on  the  south 
shore,  brought  influence  to  bear  toward  the  opening  of  the  area  for 
white  settlement.  The  Treaty  of  La  Pointe  ceding  the  "triangle"  north 
of  Lake  Superior  was  signed  by  the  Chippewa  chiefs  in  September, 
1854.  Then  the  boom  started.  Before  the  treaty  could  be  ratified  and 
confirmed,  the  miners  and  settlers  avid  to  reach  the  promised  wealth 
rushed  into  the  area.  Shacks  and  shanties  were  built,  and,  when  the 
territory  was  opened  officially,  claims  were  established  by  preemption. 
The  Reverend  James  Peet,  a  Methodist  missionary  who  arrived  at  the 
head  of  the  lakes  in  1856,  describes  what  he  saw  when  journeying  in 
a  rowboat  from  Fond  du  Lac  to  Grand  Portage:  "Along  the  North 
Shore  of  Lake  Superior  for  30  miles  .  .  .  nearly  all  the  land  is 
claimed  and  a  shanty  built  nearly  every  half  mile.  Some  of  the  'town 
sites'  have  one  or  two  families  on  them,  others  a  few  single  men, 
others  are  not  inhabited  at  all." 

In  1856,  the  Government  established  a  land  office  at  Buchanan,  a 
forest-covered  wilderness  offering  not  even  a  place  to  land  a  boat. 
John  Whipple,  the  receiver,  viewed  the  site  with  dismay,  then  opened 
his  office  in  1857  in  an  abandoned  house  two  miles  distant,  in  the 
deserted  Montezuma,  which  thereupon  became  Buchanan  (see  Arrow- 
head Tour  1).  Here  the  mouth  of  the  Sucker  River  provided  at  least 
a  good  beach.  Whipple's  recorded  experiences  with  the  newly  created 
Northeastern  Land  District  of  Minnesota  vividly  exemplify  condi- 
tions as  they  then  existed.  Plat  books  containing  records  of  the  dis- 
trict's land  surveys  had  been  lost  in  transit  from  the  surveyor  general's 
office  at  Dubuque,  Iowa.  After  tracing  them  from  Dubuque  to  Chi- 
cago and  back  again,  Whipple  finally  located  them  at  Taylors  Falls, 
Minnesota.  As  far  as  Deer  River  (Pine  River),  he  was  able  to  convey 
them  by  team  over  the  Minnesota  Trail  (Military  Road).  At  this 
point  the  road  became  impassable,  and  he  and  a  packer,  the  precious 
books  on  their  backs,  were  obliged  to  trek  for  four  days  through  mud 
and  water  to  Superior. 

The  copper  boom  was  short-lived.  No  paying  ore  having  been 
found,  and  with  the  panic  of  1857  imminent,  the  prospectors,  who  a 
few  short  months  before  could  not  get  in  fast  enough,  now  stampeded 


12  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

out  by  ox  team  over  rude  trails,  by  rowboat,  or  on  foot  with  pack 
and  blankets. 

Other  attempts,  less  dramatic  than  this  one,  have  been  made  to 
locate  the  metal  in  profitable  quantities,  one  coming  as  late  as  1929. 
None  has  met  with  commercial  success. 

A  few  of  the  copper  locations  yielded  traces  of  more  precious 
metals.  Old  residents  of  Beaver  Bay  tell  of  an  Indian  who  used  to 
appear  during  the  summer  with  dazzling  specimens  of  silver,  but  who 
never  could  be  induced  to  reveal  the  location  of  his  mine. 

Spectacular  gold  rushes  twice  have  enlivened  the  area.  In  1865,  the 
yellow  metal  was  reported  near  Lake  Vermilion,  and  hopeful  pros- 
pectors again  poured  into  the  region,  but  this  boom,  too,  collapsed. 
In  1893,  the  same  dream  lured  many  to  Rainy  Lake,  Canadian  border, 
when  the  precious  quartz  was  discovered  on  little  American  Island 
(see  Arrowhead  Tour  3).  After  a  brief  period  of  intensive  mining  in 
1894,  the  Bevier  Mining  and  Milling  Company,  organized  to  operate 
the  claim,  abandoned  the  venture,  and  the  mines  remained  undis- 
turbed for  42  years.  In  1936,  gold  mining  was  resumed  temporarily 
on  the  islands. 

SAW  LOG  IS  KING 

In  their  search  for  gold  and  copper,  the  treasure-seekers  of  1854-55 
overlooked  the  wealth  before  their  eyes — the  towering  pine  that  cov- 
ered the  hinterland.  As  the  dreams  of  underground  wealth  did  not 
materialize,  most  of  the  disillusioned  left  the  region.  Those  who  re- 
mained, not  being  able  to  get  away,  began  to  cut  the  pine,  and  it  was 
thus  that  the  lumber  industry  was  started  in  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead. 

The  first  sawmill  in  the  region  was  built  in  Oneota  (1855)  at  the 
site  of  the  present  Duluth,  Missabe  and  Iron  Range  ore  docks.  Many 
others  followed  in  quick  succession,  among  them  one  at  Burlington 
Bay,  opened  in  1857-58  by  Captain  J.  J.  Hibbard,  and  another  at  Beaver 
Bay,  in  1859,  by  the  Wieland  brothers.  In  1870,  a  railroad  had  reached 
Duluth,  and  a  year  later  the  Duluth  Ship  Canal  was  opened — two 
events  that  gave  a  heartening  impetus  to  lumbering. 

Waves  of  lumbermen  now  began  to  surge  in.  The  lumber  industry 
of  Minnesota,  which  was  to  become  by  the  turn  of  the  century  the 
leading  producer  in  the  Union,  first  attracted  New  Yorkers  and  New 
Englanders,  particularly  "Maine-ites,"  as  those  from  Maine  were  called. 
They  were  augmented  by  French  and  Scotch  from  eastern  Canada 


PAST    AND    PRESENT  13 

and  by  some  Irish  and  Germans.  Later  came  thousands  upon  thou- 
sands of  Scandinavians,  Finns,  Slavs,  and  other  Europeans,  many  of 
them  known  for  their  skill  as  woodsmen.  In  the  first  decade  of  the 
twentieth  century,  the  industry  reached  its  peak  in  the  Arrowhead 
region. 

The  lumberjacks  were  colorful  figures  in  the  pageant  of  America's 
making.  They  were  a  homogeneous  group,  bound  together  by  the 
type  of  work  they  followed.  Canny,  dexterous,  and  skilled  in  their 
work,  they  were  hard-living,  hard-fighting  fellows,  with  amazing  dis- 
regard of  danger  and  a  seeming  vanity  for  whiskers.  All  had  seen 
occasions  when  a  slight  slip  on  the  drives  plunged  men  into  icy  waters 
or  to  a  mangling  death  beneath  the  onrushing  log  boom.  On  the 
tote-road  the  snapping  of  a  weak  link  in  the  log-sled  chain  might 
release  a  load  of  logs,  endangering  the  lives  of  drivers  and  horses. 

Very  few  of  these  men  who  went  into  the  timber  saved  their 
money  or  bought  land.  Many  were  "rolled"  for  their  wages  when  in 
town  on  periodic  drunks.  They  reigned  supreme  in  the  area  as  long 
as  lumbering  was  the  chief  livelihood.  Their  prowess  in  log-rolling, 
jam-breaking,  and  raft-piloting  was  the  wonder  of  the  settlers,  and 
today  their  feats  are  commemorated  annually  in  Arrowhead  com- 
munity celebrations  (see  Brainerd;  Bemidji). 

In  Duluth,  the  center  of  the  lumber  industry  was  for  many  years 
on  Rice's  Point  and  St.  Louis  Bay,  and  between  1875  and  1880  a  saw- 
mill operated  in  what  now  is  Lincoln  Park,  for  cutting  the  timber 
along  the  hills  of  the  West  End.  Duluth  mills  reached  their  highest 
mark  of  production  in  1902,  when  more  than  435,000,000  feet  were 
cut.  After  that  there  was  a  steady  decline,  until  by  1915  the  total 
output  did  not  exceed  80,000,000  feet. 

The  Virginia  and  Rainy  Lake  Lumber  Company  was  formed 
when  a  group  of  operators  pooled  their  interests;  and  in  its  first  20 
years  it  produced  more  than  2,000,000,000  feet.  Its  single  mill  devel- 
oped quickly  into  what  was  claimed  to  be  "the  largest  white  pine 
lumber  mill  in  the  world,"  turning  out  225,000,000  feet  during  its  peak 
year.  From  1910  to  1925,  the  company  employed  annually  between 
1,700  and  2,500  men  and  used  900  horses  and  13  locomotives. 

Great  changes  have  taken  place  in  lumbering  since  the  days  when 
it  was  in  its  "hand-tool  period,"  especially  with  regard  to  transporta- 
tion. In  early  days,  timber  was  cut  only  along  the  banks  of  streams 
and  lakes,  water  serving  as  the  means  of  transportation.  Even  from 
the  mills,  finished  products  were  sent  to  market  by  water. 


14  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

River  drives  and  rafting,  however,  were  discarded,  to  a  great  extent, 
when  railroads  were  built  in  the  region.  Sleighs,  drawn  by  oxen  or 
horses,  were  then  used  to  bring  logs  to  the  railroads,  whence  they  were 
taken  to  the  mills. 

But  even  this  mode  of  transportation  gradually  gave  way  to  the 
motor  truck,  which,  eliminating  the  necessity  of  reloading,  has  in  the 
last  two  decades  become  an  important  factor  in  Arrowhead  lumbering 
activities. 


THE  IRON  ORE  RANGES 

In  the  first  quarter  of  the  nineteenth  century,  Dr.  John  McLaugh- 
lin,  a  trader  on  Lake  Vermilion  who  became  famous  in  the  Oregon 
country,  wrote  in  a  short  sketch  of  the  area:  "The  only  mineral  I 
have  seen  in  the  Country  is  Iron  which  though  very  common  I  never 
saw  in  any  large  quantity."  Iron  was  not  in  demand.  It  was  copper 
and  gold  that  drew  prospectors  to  the  region.  The  search  for  gold, 
though  fruitless,  led  to  the  discovery  of  iron  ore  on  the  Vermilion 
Range. 

In  1864,  the  State  legislature  authorized  Governor  Swift  to  appoint 
a  competent  person  to  make  a  geological  survey  of  the  region  north  of 
Lake  Superior  in  search  of  metals.  Dr.  Augustus  Hanchett  was 
appointed  and  turned  the  field  work  over  to  Thomas  Clark,  a  civil 
engineer  and  one  of  the  first  setders  at  the  head  of  the  lakes.  In  their 
reports,  they  stated  that  beds  of  copper,  iron,  and  slate  had  been  ob- 
served in  their  examination  of  a  portion  of  the  north  shore.  The 
meager  appropriation  limited  the  extent  of  the  survey. 

In  1865,  Governor  Miller  appointed  State  Geologist  H.  H.  Eames 
to  continue  the  survey  for  minerals  on  the  north  shore  of  Lake 
Superior.  Eames,  with  his  brother  Richard,  penetrated  to  Vermilion 
Lake,  where  he  found  iron  ore  exposed  from  50  to  60  feet  in  thickness 
in  two  parallel  ridges  near  the  mouth  of  a  stream  known  as  Two 
Rivers.  From  that  time,  the  locality  was  called  Vermilion  Range. 

In  those  days,  rumors  of  the  presence  of  gold  on  Vermilion  Lake 
overshadowed  all  other  events,  and  Eames  was  one  of  many  who  was 
struck  with  gold  fever.  This  fact  probably  delayed  iron  ore  mining 
for  nearly  20  years. 

The  following  description  by  a  contemporary  sheds  new  light  on 
the  Eames  expedition,  new  because  it  is  not  incorporated  in  official 
records.  Henry  P.  Wieland  wrote  two  letters,  in  February,  1932,  to 


PAST    AND     PRESENT  *5 

the  St.  Louis  County  Historical  Society,  where  they  are  on  file.    The 
substance  of  these  letters  is  as  follows: 

In  the  summer  of  1865,  Dr.  Eames  (probably  H.  H.  Eames)  and  two  other 
men  came  to  Beaver  Bay,  on  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Superior.  Eames  asked  for 
Christian  Wieland,  uncle  of  Henry  and  well-known  civil  engineer,  and  a  long 
conference  ensued.  Two  days  later  they  started  on  an  expedition  to  Lake  Ver- 
milion, led  by  Christian  Wieland. 

At  a  point  near  the  present  site  of  Babbitt,  St.  Louis  County,  Christian  Wieland 
called  attention  to  indications  of  iron,  but  Eames'  mind  was  set  on  gold.  "To  hell 
with  iron,  it's  gold  we're  after,"  he  said. 

After  their  arrival  at  Vermilion,  Wieland  was  soon  convinced  that  the  gold 
excitement  was  a  false  alarm.  He  therefore  left  Eames  at  Lake  Vermilion  and 
returned  to  Beaver  Bay  with  samples  of  the  iron  ore  that  he  had  discovered  on  the 
eastern  end  of  the  Mesabi  Range.  Later  in  the  same  year,  Wieland  succeeded  in 
interesting  an  Ontonagon  (Michigan)  capitalist  in  his  discovery,  and  they  decided 
to  build  a  road  from  Beaver  Bay  to  Babbitt.  In  preparation  for  this  work,  Christian 
Wieland  and  his  brothers  Henry  and  Ernest  hauled  a  considerable  quantity  of 
supplies  out  to  Greenwood  Lake,  Lake  County,  during  the  winter  of  1865-66. 
Soon  after  this  was  done,  the  financier  died,  and  the  plans  had  to  be  abandoned. 

Henry  P.  Wieland,  then  a  boy  of  thirteen,  was  sent  to  Greenwood  Lake  the 
following  winter  to  dispose  of  the  supplies,  by  trading  them  to  the  Indians  for  furs. 
This  incident  later  gave  rise  to  a  story  about  a  trading  post  at  Greenwood  Lake. 

Another  man,  George  R.  Stuntz,  started  an  expedition  of  his  own, 
in  1865,  to  prospect  for  gold  at  Lake  Vermilion.  He  was  spoken  of 
by  contemporaries  as  the  "pioneer  of  pioneers"  at  the  head  of  the 
lakes,  and  was  well  acquainted  with  the  topography  of  the  region.  He 
searched  for  gold  and,  incidentally,  discovered  the  location  of  the  first 
bed  of  iron  ore  to  be  worked  in  Minnesota,  the  Breitung  Mine,  near 
the  present  city  of  Tower.  From  this  mine  the  first  shipment  of  iron 
ore  was  made  by  rail  in  the  summer  of  1884. 

In  the  early  1870'$,  Peter  Mitchell,  from  the  Ontonagon  Syndicate 
of  Michigan,  began  explorations  of  the  ore  body  discovered  in  1865 
by  Christian  Wieland  on  the  eastern  Mesabi.  Samples  of  the  ore  were 
taken  by  Stuntz  to  George  C.  Stone,  who  forwarded  them  to  Charle- 
magne Tower  of  Philadelphia.  Tower  was  so  thoroughly  convinced 
of  the  region's  wealth  that  he  sent  two  exploring  parties  in  1875  and 
1880,  under  Professor  Albert  H.  Chester,  and  began  buying  up  land 
around  Lake  Vermilion. 

The  reports  of  Chester  led  directly  to  the  opening  of  the  district. 
The  Minnesota  Iron  Mining  Company  was  organized  in  1882.  Among 
its  officers  were  Tower  and  Stone.  The  company  took  over  the  charter 
of  the  Duluth  and  Iron  Range  Railroad,  which,  although  organized 
in  1874,  had  not  advanced  beyond  incorporation.  Tracks  were  laid 


l6  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

between  Agate  Bay  on  Lake  Superior  and  the  Soudan  Mine  (originally 
called  the  Breitung  Mine).  When  the  first  ore  train  was  loaded  in 
1884,  every  man  present  threw  a  lump  into  the  leading  car  for  good 
luck.  The  reign  of  Arrowhead  iron  had  begun. 

The  Vermilion  Range  was  the  initial  step  in  the  area's  great  iron 
industry,  but  the  Mesabi,  to  the  southwest,  was  to  furnish  the  rungs 
to  the  top  of  the  ladder.  Location  of  the  first  iron  ore  on  the  Mesabi 
Range  was  made  on  the  eastern  end  (near  Babbitt,  a  few  miles  south 
of  Birch  Lake),  but  it  was  not  considered  of  sufficiently  high  grade 
to  warrant  mining. 

Leonidas  Merritt,  however,  and  some  of  his  relatives,  all  timber 
cruisers,  thought  otherwise.  In  1890,  he  took  out  141  leases,  and  test 
pits  definitely  established  the  fact  that  here  was  a  second  iron  range. 
Mining  operations  on  the  Mesabi  began  in  1891.  The  first  ore  was 
shipped  in  1892,  and  five  years  later  20  mines  were  producing  nearly 
3,000,000  tons. 

Unlike  the  Vermilion  Range,  where  shafts  have  to  be  sunk,  the 
Mesabi  Range  is  mined  primarily  by  the  open-pit  method.  The  ore 
bodies  are  near  the  surface  on  the  Mesabi,  and  the  overburden  (mostly 
glacial  drift)  can  therefore  be  easily  removed  by  steam  and  electric 
shovels  (see  Buhl).  The  largest  of  the  latter  load  a  50-ton  ore  car  with 
about  three  scoops. 

The  Mesabi  ores  are,  generally  speaking,  softer  and  more  friable 
than  those  dug  on  the  Vermilion.  Because  of  this  characteristic  of  the 
deposit  and  of  its  easy  accessibility,  there  is  a  tremendous  output  on 
the  Mesabi,  which  in  turn  brings  down  the  costs  of  production.  The 
Mesabi  ores,  because  their  friability  acts  as  a  clog,  necessitated  a  re- 
modeling of  blast  furnaces.  But  after  the  initial  difficulties  were 
overcome,  the  output,  to  keep  abreast  of  the  rapid  strides  being  made 
in  the  industrial  world,  increased  at  a  rate  unsurpassed  theretofore  in 
iron-ore  mining.  The  ores  mined  on  the  Mesabi  have  formed  the 
broad  base  of  the  American  steel  industry  for  several  decades. 

The  discovery  of  Minnesota's  third  iron  range,  the  Cuyuna  (about 
100  miles  west  of  Duluth),  was  made  in  1904  by  Cuyler  Adams,  a 
prospector.  Aware  of  the  strong  magnetic  attraction  in  the  area,  he 
chose  a  likely  spot,  set  drills  in  motion,  and  discovered  ore.  The 
Cuyuna  was  worked  first  in  1911  at  the  Kennedy  Mine  (now  ex- 
hausted). Both  open-pit  and  underground  methods  are  used.  This 
range  differs  from  the  others  in  that  its  ore  carries  varying  amounts 
of  manganese,  a  metal  comparatively  scarce  in  the  United  States. 


PAST    AND    PRESENT  IJ 

During  the  World  War,  approximately  90  per  cent  of  the  country's 
supply  of  manganese  came  from  the  Cuyuna  Range. 

In  the  early  days  of  iron  mining  in  the  Arrowhead,  it  was  held 
that  ores  must  contain  from  60  to  65  per  cent  iron,  a  standard  later 
lowered  to  51.50.  As  exhaustion  of  the  richest  ore  threatened,  it  be- 
came necessary  to  improve  (concentrate)  those  of  lower  grade.  This 
is  accomplished  by  washing,  drying,  crushing  and  screening,  fusion, 
and  magnetism.  In  mining  parlance,  these  processes  of  improvement 
are  termed  "beneficiation."  In  recent  years,  as  high  as  40  per  cent 
of  the  total  output  has  been  beneficiated.  At  first  ore  was  identified 
by  the  name  of  the  mine  that  produced  it,  but  before  long,  to  simplify 
shipping,  it  became  known  by  the  grade  of  its  composition,  which  often 
was  obtained  by  mixing  ores.  Today,  in  the  ore's  course  from  mine  to 
furnace,  samples  are  analyzed  repeatedly,  not  only  for  iron,  but  also 
for  phosphorus,  silica,  manganese,  and  the  percentage  of  moisture. 

Railroads  were  built  to  transport  the  ore  from  the  mines  to  the 
ports  of  Duluth-Superior  and  Two  Harbors.  The  steadily  increasing 
output  of  the  mines  necessitated  improved  loading  facilities  for  lake 
shipments  to  eastern  furnaces.  In  order  to  transfer  the  millions  of 
tons  from  the  trains  to  the  ships,  docks  of  new  design  were  required. 
These,  so  characteristic  a  feature  of  Duluth  and  Two  Harbors,  are 
specially  constructed  piers  equipped  with  pockets,  into  which  the 
hopper-bottomed  cars  drop  the  ore.  From  these  pockets,  with  capaci- 
ties of  300  to  400  tons,  an  average  of  10,000  tons  can  be  dumped  into 
a  vessel's  hold  in  six  hours. 

The  story  of  the  struggle  for  possession  of  the  mines  is  crowded 
with  drama.  The  panic  of  1893  brought  disaster  to  many,  forcing 
them  to  sell  for  almost  nothing  holdings  they  knew  were  worth  mil- 
lions. The  owner  of  the  Fayal  Mine  at  Eveleth  (now  inactive)  sold 
out  for  $30,000,  well  aware  he  was  sacrificing  a  fortune,  and,  as  it 
proved,  the  mine  later  yielded  $10,000,000.  Another,  hard-pressed, 
deeded  his  tract  to  a  relative  to  protect  it  from  creditors  and  could  get 
it  back  only  by  giving  the  relative  a  tenth  interest,  for  which  the 
latter  eventually  received  about  $500,000.  When  the  banks  demanded 
more  collateral  from  one  Duluthian,  he  could  ofTer  only  a  second 
mortgage  on  his  barn;  yet  ten  years  later  his  income  from  minimum 
royalty  was  $1,000  a  day.  Many  valuable  and  interesting  accounts 
of  the  search  for  iron  ore,  with  its  hardships  and  disappointments,  its 
speculations  and  litigations,  have  been  preserved  in  the  annals  of  his- 
tory. Paul  de  Kruif's  Seven  Iron  Men  presents  the  generally  accepted 
account  of  the  Merritt-Rockefeller  controversy. 


l8  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

The  taxing  of  mining  properties  long  has  been  a  controversial 
issue  between  the  State  and  the  mining  companies.  Valuations  are  set 
by  the  State  Tax  Commission.  As  the  towns  grew,  they  exercised  their 
right  of  local  taxation.  In  some  of  the  communities,  the  mining  com- 
panies pay  more  than  95  per  cent  of  all  taxes  levied.  The  volume  of 
mining-tax  moneys  has  made  possible  civic  improvements  that  would 
do  credit  to  much  larger  and  older  cities  in  the  nation.  In  fact,  the 
most  elaborate  public  schools  in  the  country  are  to  be  found  in  this 
area.  Hibbing,  for  example,  expended  $3,800,000  for  its  high  school 
and  junior  college. 

Few  mines  are  operated  by  the  fee  owners  (property  owners),  be- 
cause of  the  great  outlay  of  capital  required.  The  properties  usually 
are  leased  to  operating  companies.  They  pay  the  fee  owners  a  royalty 
on  each  ton  produced  and  shipped  and  are  responsible  for  all  taxes. 
The  State  of  Minnesota  is  the  greatest  fee  owner.  At  the  time  of  its 
establishment,  it  was  given  two  sections  of  land  in  each  township  for 
school  purposes,  all  ungranted  swamp  land,  and  scattered  tracts  for 
the  State  university.  In  1935,  there  were  58  mines  on  State  properties, 
among  them  the  Missabe  Mountain,  the  Leonidas,  the  Hill  Annex, 
and  the  Mesabi  Chief.  The  royalties  from  these  are  placed  in  their 
respective  trust  funds — school,  swamp,  university. 

The  question  of  how  long  the  Arrowhead's  iron-ore  deposits  will 
hold  out  is  often  propounded.  A  rough  estimate  in  1911  placed  the 
reserve  at  173,000,000,000  tons.  The  mining  companies  have  not  as  yet 
felt  the  threat  of  scarcity.  Indications  are  that  higher-grade  ores  should 
last  well  into  the  final  quarter  of  the  century,  while  low-grade  and 
mixed  ores  may  last  for  many  centuries.  The  United  States  Bureau  of 
Mines  and  the  University  of  Minnesota  are  now  experimenting  suc- 
cessfully with  utilization  of  the  lower-grade  ores. 

Of  Minnesota's  wealth,  about  $100,000,000  a  year  comes  from  the 
Arrowhead's  three  iron  ranges,  which  produce  annually  some  40,000,000 
tons  of  ore.  More  than  25  iron  range  communities  owe  their  existence 
to  the  mines.  Thousands  are  employed  in  the  mining  and  transport- 
ing of  the  ore,  while  it  is  estimated  that  100,000  persons  rely  on  the 
industry  for  their  livelihood. 

FROM  CANOE  TO  AIRPLANE 

For  centuries,  the  only  highways  in  the  area  were  the  maze  of 
foot  trails  and  water  courses  traversed  by  moccasined  feet  and  birch- 


PAST    AND    PRESENT  19 

bark  canoes.  The  trails  and  portages  are  still  to  be  found  in  the 
fastnesses  of  the  Superior  National  Forest. 

At  the  head  of  the  world's  greatest  inland  waterway,  the  Arrow- 
head's first  advance  in  transportation  was,  as  a  matter  of  course,  made 
on  water.  Small  sailing  vessels  were  adequate  for  a  time.  With  the 
development  of  the  Arrowhead  and  the  rapidly  expanding  markets 
for  lumber,  iron  ore,  and  dairy  products,  and  also  for  western  wheat, 
the  need  for  larger  and  better  ships  was  constantly  growing,  until 
today  carriers  on  the  Great  Lakes  are  as  fine  as  any  on  the  high  seas. 
The  importance  of  Lake  Superior  shipping  to  the  nation's  economic 
life  can  best  be  indicated  by  figures  which  show,  for  instance,  that  in 
1938,  one  of  the  lake's  poorest  shipping  seasons,  40,042,739  tons  passed 
the  locks  at  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  while,  by  comparison,  34,418,000  tons 
passed  through  the  Suez  Canal,  and  26,227,268  tons  through  the 
Panama  Canal.  For  both  the  Suez  and  the  Panama  canals,  1938  was 
one  of  the  best  years. 

"The  two  canals  [at  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  connecting  Lake  Huron 
with  Lake  Superior],  with  their  five  great  locks  (four  on  the  American 
side,  one  on  the  Canadian),  are  the  greatest  ship  highway  in  the  world. 
An  average  of  100  ships  a  day  pass  through  during  the  navigation 
season  of  eight  months,  and  the  total  traffic  in  1925  amounted  to 
81,875,108  tons,  valued  at  $1,117,817,292.  The  Davis  and  the  Sabin  locks 
(1,350  feet  long  and  80  feet  wide)  are  the  longest  in  the  world." 

While  water  transportation  was  developing,  other  modes  of  trans- 
portation also  were  improved  and  increased.  The  first  overland  route 
to  connect  the  Arrowhead  with  the  outside  world  was  the  Military 
Road,  cut  from  St.  Paul  to  Superior  in  the  1850'$.  The  Vermilion  Trail 
was  blazed  through  the  wilderness  between  Duluth  and  Tower  in  1865 
to  accommodate  the  gold  seekers.  Finally  came  the  highways  of  today, 
providing  easy  access  to  the  beautiful  rivers,  lakes,  and  forests  of  the 
Arrowhead  region. 

The  first  railroad  ran  its  tracks  into  Duluth  from  St.  Paul  in  1870. 
That  year  also  saw  (at  Carlton)  the  beginning  of  the  Northern  Pacific's 
construction  westward.  Steel  rails  now  penetrate  almost  every  part  of 
the  Arrowhead.  Only  one  county,  Cook,  has  no  railroad  service. 

The  need  to  transport  workers  from  their  homes  to  the  mines  was 
met  by  a  bus  system  that  formed  the  nucleus  of  the  far-flung  North- 
land Greyhound  Lines.  Today,  most  points  in  the  Arrowhead  can  be 
reached  by  bus. 

The  larger   municipalities  have  excellent  airports.     Many  lakes 


2O  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

provide  good  landings  for  seaplanes  and  amphibians.  Air  service 
reaches  a  new  height  of  modern  convenience  by  allowing  time-pressed 
fishermen  to  be  taken  to  and  from  the  fishing  grounds. 


AGRICULTURE 

As  the  forests  were  cleared  and  the  railroads  completed,  many  of 
the  lumbermen  and  laborers  turned  to  farming.  Nature  provided 
good  soils  in  many  parts  of  the  region,  and,  although  clearing  the 
land  and  cultivating  the  soil  was  slow  and  arduous  work,  eventually  it 
bore  fruit. 

In  1911,  twenty  varieties  of  Arrowhead  potatoes  won  first  prize  at  a 
show  in  Madison  Square  Garden,  and  a  year  later  St.  Louis  County's 
entry  took  the  L.  W.  Hill  Great  Northern  cup.  Itasca  County  now 
features  the  "Arrowhead  brand"  of  baking  potatoes,  which  rival  those 
grown  in  Idaho.  As  the  remoter  sections  were  settled,  other  crops 
became  highly  successful.  The  fertile  bed  of  glacial  Lake  Agassiz 
proved  to  be  one  of  the  best  clover-  and  alfalfa-producing  areas  in  the 
country,  and  the  till  plains  of  the  south  and  west  produce  excellent 
grain  and  hay.  Today,  the  largest  proportionate  farm  acreage  is  found 
in  Carlton,  Crow  Wing,  Aitkin,  and  Cass  counties. 

Throughout  the  area,  potatoes,  oats,  and  hay  are  the  major  crops. 
Because  feed  can  be  grown  so  easily,  dairying  and  livestock-raising 
have  come  to  the  fore,  in  1930  contributing  more  than  half  the  total" 
farm  income.  The  number  of  creameries,  both  cooperative  and  in- 
dependent, has  increased.  In  recent  years,  small  fruits  have  been  grown 
profitably  in  the  sandy  districts.  Many  poultry  farms  have  been  de- 
veloped, supplying  chickens  and  turkeys  to  both  home  and  Eastern 
markets.  Aitkin  is  now  known  as  the  "turkey  capital,"  because  of  the 
fine  quality  of  turkeys  marketed  there. 

University  farm  schools  at  Duluth  and  Grand  Rapids  conduct  ex- 
periments and  study  local  farming  problems.  The  North  Central 
Agricultural  School  and  Experiment  Station  (Grand  Rapids)  became 
a  branch  agricultural  school  in  1926.  The  North  East  Experiment 
Station  (Duluth)  was  established  in  1913.  On  the  253-acre  farm  have 
been  developed  new  cold-resistant  fruits  and  vegetables,  the  disease- 
free  Arrowhead  rutabaga,  and  the  Arrowhead  sunflower.  Among  the 
numerous  successful  varieties  tried,  the  potato  seedling,  19-9-c,  set  a 
production  record. 


PAST    AND    PRESENT  21 

PRESS  AND  RADIO 

The  Arrowhead's  first  press  was  a  gift  and  served  Indians  who 
could  neither  read  nor  write.  Described  as  "complete  .  .  .  portable 
...  of  unique  pattern  .  .  .  one  of  several  that  had  been  built  as 
compact  as  possible,  and  designed  for  use  on  shipboard,"  it  had  been 
presented  by  Oberlin  College  and  Ohio  Sunday  School  students  to  the 
Reverend  Alonzo  Barnes  in  1849,  when  he  accepted  a  post  in  a  Chip- 
pewa  mission  at  Cass  Lake.  He  used  it  as  an  aid  in  his  Christian 
endeavor. 

As  the  communities  along  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Superior  de- 
veloped, a  need  for  newspapers  was  felt.  The  first  to  be  established 
was  The  North  Shore  Advocate  at  Buchanan  in  1857-58,  but  in  1859, 
when  the  land  office  was  moved  to  Portland,  the  newspaper  ceased 
to  advocate.  The  second,  which  was  the  first  in  Duluth  (April,  1869), 
was  the  Duluth  Minnesotian,  a  weekly,  written,  edited,  printed,  and 
perhaps  even  delivered  by  Dr.  Thomas  Foster.  At  birth  it  was  only  a 
five-column,  four-page  sheet,  yet  it  was  well-edited  and  under  the 
doctor's  good  care,  prospered.  In  1878,  it  was  merged  with  the  Duluth 
Tribune,  whose  quarters  since  founding  in  1870  had  been  so  limited 
that  type  was  set  up  out-of-doors.  That  year  also  saw  the  appearance 
of  the  Weekly  La\e  Superior  News,  which  in  1881  became  a  daily  and 
in  1892  was  consolidated  with  the  Duluth  Tribune,  to  form  the  Duluth 
News-Tribune. 

From  these  beginnings,  several  newspapers  sprang  into  being,  and 
today  there  are  69  in  the  area,  59  of  them  weeklies.  The  development 
of  the  nine  dailies  has  paralleled  that  of  the  region.  T he  Brainerd  Daily 
Dispatch  appeared  in  1881,  the  year  Brainerd  was  reincorporated  as 
a  city.  Two  years  later,  it  was  followed  by  the  Duluth  Herald,  which 
was  consolidated  under  one  ownership  with  the  Duluth  News-Tribune 
in  1929.  The  discovery  of  iron  ore  on  the  Mesabi  Range  accounted 
for  the  appearance  of  two  others:  the  Virginia  Daily  Enterprise  and 
The  Hibbing  Daily  Tribune,  founded  in  1899.  The  Bemidji  Daily 
Pioneer  was  established  in  1903.  Four  years  later,  The  Daily  Journal 
in  International  Falls  began  publication.  Two  Finnish  dailies  are  also 
published  in  Duluth. 

On  page  22  is  a  complete  list  of  the  69  newspapers  currently  pub- 
lished in  the  Arrowhead  region. 

The  Arrowhead's  first  radio  station,  WEBC,  affiliated  with  the 
National  Broadcasting  Company,  was  established  in  Duluth-Superior 


22 


THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 


in  1924  by  the  Head  of  the  Lakes  Broadcasting  Company,  which 
since  has  opened  two  other  stations,  WMFG  in  Hibbing  in  1935,  and 
WHLB  in  Virginia  in  1936.  Duluth's  second  station  and  the  region's 
fourth,  KDAL,  which  broadcast  its  first  program  in  1936,  is  an  affiliate 
of  the  Columbia  Broadcasting  System.  In  1939,  a  third  network 
service  was  added  when  the  Mutual  Broadcasting  System's  affiliate, 
WDSM,  started  to  broadcast  from  studios  in  Superior  and  Duluth. 


ARROWHEAD  NEWSPAPERS:  1941  LIST 


Aitkin Independent  Age 

Aitkin Republican 

Aurora    Aurora  News 

Barnum    Barnum  Herald 

Bemidji Bemidji  Daily  Pioneer 

Bemidji Bemidji  Sentinel 

Bemidji Northland  Times 

Big  Falls    Big  Fork  Compass 

Big  Fork    Itasca  Progressive 

Biwabik    Biwabik  Times 

Blackduck    Blackduck  American 

Bovey    Bovey  Press 

Braincrd  Brainerd  Daily 

Dispatch 

Brainerd  Brainerd  Journal  Press 

Braincrd  Brainerd  Tribune 

Brainerd Crow  Wing  County 

Review 

Buhl    Buhl-Kinney  Herald 

Carlton Carlton  County  Vidette 

Cass  Lake Cass  Lake  Times 

Chisholm    Mesaba  Miner 

Chisholm    Tribune  Herald 

Cloquet     Pine  Knot 

Coleraine    Coleraine  Iron  News 

Cook Cook  News  Herald 

Crosby    Crosby  Courier 

Deer  River Deer  River  News 

Deerwood Deerwood  Enterprise 

Duluth    Duluth  Free  Press 

Duluth   Duluth  Herald 

Duluth    Duluth   News-Tribune 

Duluth   Duluth  Publicity 

Duluth    Industrialist!    (Finnish) 

Duluth    Labor  World 

Duluth   Lakeview  Times 

Reminder 

Duluth    Midwest  Labor 

Duluth    Paivalehti  (Finnish) 

Duluth   Skandinav 

(Norwegian-Danish) 


Duluth   Steel  Plant  News 

Duluth   Weekly  Herald 

Duluth   West  Duluth  Budgeter 

Duluth   West  End  News 

Ely    Ely  Miner 

Eveleth Eveleth  Clarion 

Eveleth   Eveleth  News 

Floodwood Rural  Forum 

Gilbert    Gilbert  Herald 

Grand  Marais  . .  .Cook  County  News- 
Herald 

Grand  Rapids  . .  .  Grand  Rapids 
Independent 
Grand  Rapids  . .  .  Herald-Review 

Hackensack    Hackensack 

Independent 

Hibbing    Hibbing  Daily  Tribune 

Hibbing    Independent 

Hill  City   Hill  City  News 

International 

Falls   The  Daily  Journal 

International 

Falls    International  Falls 

Press 

Ironton Ironton  Ranger 

Littlefork    Littlefork  Times 

Moose  Lake  ....  Star-Gazette 

Nashwauk    Eastern  Itascan 

Northome Northome  Record 

Pequot    Pequot  Chronicle 

Proctor   Proctor  Journal 

Tower    Weekly  News 

Two  Harbors  . .  .  Lake  County  Chronicle 

Virginia    Virginia  Daily 

Enterprise 

Virginia    Queen  City  Sun 

Virginia    Range  Facts 

Walker Cass  County  Pioneer 

Walker  .  ..Walker  Pilot 


PASTANDPRESENT  23 

FOLKLORE  AND  FESTIVALS 

It  is  but  natural  that  such  a  region  as  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead, 
with  its  Indians  as  well  as  its  other  inhabitants  from  many  different 
places  and  countries,  should  have  numerous  legends,  folk  customs,  and 
festivals. 

Kitchi  Gummi  and  its  hinterland  play  a  vivid  role  in  Indian  leg- 
ends, most  of  which  are  woven  around  the  bitter  warfare  between 
Chippewa  and  Sioux.  Science  has  explained  the  formation  of  Minne- 
sota Point,  but  the  Chippewa  believe  the  sand  bar  was  created  to  save 
a  young  brave  who  was  trapped  by  the  Sioux  on  the  south  shore  of 
Lake  Superior.  Surrounded  on  three  sides,  he  had  turned  to  flee, 
only  to  find  his  escape  blocked  by  icy  water.  There  was  death  before 
and  behind.  The  Great  Spirit  urged  him  into  the  water,  then  caused 
land  to  form  in  front  of  him.  As  the  Sioux  started  to  follow,  part 
of  the  newly  formed  land  sank,  and  this  channel  became  the  Superior 
Entry. 

Wild-rice  harvesting  is  a  time  of  many  Indian  ceremonial  dances. 
In  early  evening,  the  roll  of  the  tom-tom  calls,  and  Indians  carrying 
packs  and  bundles  make  their  way  toward  the  building  in  which  the 
dance  is  held.  Before  the  hall,  serious-faced  braves,  surrounding  a 
bonfire,  are  drying  and  stretching  a  drumhead.  The  inside  of  the  hall 
is  a  dimly  lighted  octagon;  in  the  center  stands  a  raised  platform  for 
the  drummers,  whose  measured  beat  accompanies  a  chorus  of  voices 
swelling  into  a  fascinating  musical  story  of  war  and  victory.  Out  of 
the  darkness  at  the  edge  of  the  room,  colorfully  dressed  girls  appear 
and  form  a  circle.  To  the  rhythm  of  the  tom-tom  they  dance  a  halt- 
ing step,  bending  the  right  knee  at  each  inflected  beat  and  shuffling  to 
the  left,  to  continue  the  circling  with  a  swaying  motion.  The  tempo 
increases  as  youths,  their  suits  trimmed  with  beads,  feathers,  and  fur, 
and  headdresses  partially  covering  their  faces,  rush  into  the  room,  step- 
ping lightly  on  their  toes,  and  thumping  the  floor  with  their  heels 
twice  to  each  beat  of  the  music.  Their  muscular  bodies  twist  and  turn 
sinuously,  sometimes  almost  touching  the  floor.  The  dancers  are 
extremely  skillful,  and  their  ceremonial  performance  is  of  great  interest 
to  visitors. 

Although  the  Paul  Bunyan  legends  relate  to  the  lumber  camps  of 
the  entire  country,  some  belong  exclusively  to  the  Arrowhead.  Paul's 
blue  ox,  Babe,  measuring,  when  only  a  tyke,  42  axe  handles  and  a 
plug  of  chewing  tobacco  between  the  eyes,  reached  his  full  size  at  the 


24  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

time  Paul  logged  northern  Minnesota.  Once  when  Paul's  camp  was 
the  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi,  Babe  broke  into  the  cache  and  ate 
80  hogsheads  of  salt  pork.  This  made  him  so  thirsty  he  went  to  the 
river  to  get  a  drink.  Now  Paul's  drive  had  nearly  reached  the  mills 
at  New  Orleans,  but,  when  Babe  began  to  drink,  the  logs  started 
upstream  faster  than  they  had  been  floating  down.  Not  until  a  log  six 
feet  in  diameter  tickled  his  nose  did  the  blue  ox  stop  drinking.  With 
a  snort  that  sent  the  logs  southward  again,  he  turned  toward  camp. 
All  true  woodsmen  know  that  Minnesota's  ten  thousand  lakes  are 
Babe's  hoofprints. 

While  the  Indians  have  their  legends  and  the  lumberjacks  their 
Paul  Bunyan  stories,  so,  too,  have  the  region's  diverse  racial  elements 
their  own  quaint  customs  and  their  own  peculiar  celebrations.  The 
French-Canadians  have  their  annual  "Mulligan"  each  fall,  and,  just 
previous  to  the  beginning  of  Lent  each  year,  they  hold  their  well-known 
Mardi  Gras.  The  Scotch,  who  have  their  Clan  Stewarts,  observe 
Robert  Burns  Day,  January  25,  and  St.  Andrews  Day,  November  30. 

One  of  the  largest  affairs  held  by  any  racial  group  is  the  Mid- 
summer Festival  of  the  Scandinavians  in  Duluth  every  year.  As 
Midsummer  Day  occurs  on  June  24 — a  holiday  in  northern  Europe — 
the  celebration  is  held  on  the  Sunday  nearest  that  date.  The  Nor- 
wegians celebrate  their  Independence  Day,  May  17,  known  as  Syttende 
Mai. 

The  Finns,  among  the  region's  larger  racial  groups,  also  celebrate 
Midsummer  Day.  Their  festivities,  however,  differ  from  those  of  the 
Scandinavians  in  that  the  day  is  celebrated  in  a  different  town  or  city 
each  year  on  the  week  end  nearest  June  24.  They  have  also  their 
Lasfyainen  festivities — corresponding  to  the  Shrovetide — to  which  in- 
creasing attention  has  been  given  in  recent  years. 

The  Poles  have  their  Independence  Day  on  May  3,  and  Pulaski 
Day  is  held  on  October  8. 

The  Arrowhead's  Serbian  population,  adhering  to  the  Julian  calen- 
dar in  their  religious  rites,  celebrates  its  Christmas  on  January  7  and 
its  New  Year's  Day  on  January  14.  Their  Christmas  is  a  very  colorful 
affair. 

The  Yugo-Slavs — the  largest  Slavic  group  in  the  Arrowhead — 
have  their  own  organizations,  their  festivities,  and  their  traditional 
customs. 

The  Italians  in  the  region,  comprising  the  greater  part  of  the  State's 


PASTANDPRESENT  25 

total  number  of  this  nationality,  also  observe  their  own  celebrations 
and  customs. 


THE  ARROWHEAD  TODAY 

The  Minnesota  Arrowhead  is  one  of  the  major  melting  pots  of  the 
nation.  Its  fur  trading,  lumbering,  mining,  shipping,  and  railroading 
have  attracted  adventurous,  enterprising,  and  hard-working  people 
virtually  from  the  four  corners  of  the  earth. 

Frenchmen  and  French-Canadians  were  the  first  pale  faces  to 
penetrate  the  Lake  Superior  region.  They  were  in  control  of  the 
country  and  also  masters  of  its  first  industry — the  fur  trade — for  more 
than  a  century.  With  the  advent  of  the  British  regime,  Anglo- 
Saxon,  Scotch,  and  Irish  immigrants  came  and  gradually  gained  the 
upper  hand  in  the  fur  trade. 

The  fur  trade  was  followed  by  lumbering,  but  iron-ore  mining 
eventually  became  the  dominant  economic  factor  in  the  Arrowhead. 
These  activities,  together  with  the  building  of  railroads  and  the  devel- 
opment of  Lake  Superior  shipping,  attracted  thousands  upon  thou- 
sands from  Eastern  States  and  from  foreign  countries. 

In  the  Arrowhead  melting  pot  may  be  found  French-Canadians, 
other  Canadians,  Anglo-Saxons,  Scots,  Irish,  Swedes,  Norwegians, 
Danes,  Finns,  Finland-Swedes,  Germans,  Russians,  Poles,  Czecho- 
slovaks, Rumanians,  Austrians,  Yugo-Slavs,  Greeks,  Italians,  Swiss, 
and  several  other  nationalities. 

Today  side  by  side  with  the  Old  World  stands  the  ultramodern 
New  World.  Some  of  the  schools  in  the  region  are  among  the  most 
elaborate  in  the  country;  yet  many  of  the  pupils  return  to  homes 
in  which  foreign  tongues  are  still  spoken  and  foreign  customs  ob- 
served. Almost  within  the  shadows  of  majestic  educational  institu- 
tions, Slovenian  hoeing  bees  are  held  with  no  loss  of  their  naivete. 
Recreation  is  often  found  in  racial  clubs. 

Assimilation  of  these  many  peoples  has  been  effected  largely  by 
the  schools,  together  with  cooperating  local  organizations.  The  com- 
plexity of  the  undertaking  is  indicated  by  the  report  of  an  iron  range 
school  that  the  year's  regular  enrollment  included  representation  of 
30  nationalities.  In  Duluth  alone,  during  the  1936-37  term  488  nat- 
uralization enrollees  were  of  27  distinct  nationalities.  The  English 
courses  developed  in  Americanization  work  are  outstanding  in  the 
State. 


26  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

Within  the  region  today,  there  is  an  Indian  population  of  4,464, 
all  Chippewa,  whose  affairs  are  administered  by  the  Consolidated 
Chippewa  Indian  Agency,  the  third  largest  unit  in  the  United  States 
Indian  Service.  In  the  Arrowhead  are  five  of  the  seven  reservations 
under  the  Agency's  jurisdiction — Grand  Portage,  Vermilion,  Fond  du 
Lac,  Nett  Lake,  and  Cass  Lake — two  hospitals,  at  Fond  du  Lac  and 
Cass  Lake,  and  the  Indian  section  at  Ah-Gwah-Ching  Sanatorium. 

These  Chippewa  Indians  claim  they  are  the  most  highly  assimilated 
group  in  the  country.  There  has  been  no  serious  trouble  between 
them  and  what  is,  perhaps,  the  most  varied  group  of  nationalities 
to  which  American  Indians  have  had  to  adapt  themselves.  Inter- 
marriage has  been  considerable,  and  educational  privileges  are  identical 
with  those  enjoyed  by  whites.  Most  of  the  Indians  are  self-supporting. 

Many  of  the  towns  founded  by  the  early  settlers  were  laid  out  in 
haphazard  fashion.  Newer  ones  have  been  planned  more  carefully 
and  built  with  an  eye  to  civic  beauty,  health,  and  efficiency.  Just  out- 
side the  mining  towns,  and  grouped  about  the  mines  themselves,  are 
the  "mine  locations,"  residential  sections  built  by  the  mining  com- 
panies for  their  workers. 

In  costly  public  buildings  the  Arrowhead  excels.  Probably  no- 
where else  within  an  equally  limited  area  are  there  so  many  elaborate 
schools  as  on  the  Mesabi  and  Vermilion  iron  ranges.  Taxes  paid  by 
the  mining  companies  have  given  the  ranges  these  schools,  and  it  is 
not  only  in  outward  appearance  that  they  are  superlative.  They  are 
splendidly  equipped  in  practically  every  detail,  having  gymnasiums, 
swimming  pools,  auditoriums,  recreational  rooms,  libraries,  and  study 
halls. 

Because  of  the  isolation  of  some  of  the  rural  sections,  school  dis- 
tricts have  been  consolidated  and  bus  systems  installed,  and  one 
district,  Deer  River,  has  even  built  a  dormitory.  Smith-Hughes  in- 
struction (industrial  work)  is  offered  in  both  rural  and  urban  schools. 

RECREATION  AND  SPORTS 

The  Minnesota  Arrowhead  region  affords  an  ideal  setting  for  recre- 
ation and  sports  of  almost  every  description.  Its  temperate  climate 
and  its  varied  topography  have  made  it  one  of  the  major  playgrounds 
of  the  nation.  Each  season  of  the  year  brings  widely  differing 
games  and  sports  activities. 

Inland  lakes  and  streams  and  the  cool  waters  of  Lake  Superior 


Photograph  by  courtesy  of  the  Minnesota  Tourist  Bureau. 


Photograph  by  courtesy  of  the  Minne- 
sota Tourist  Bureau. 


(Above)  SPLIT  ROCK  LIGHT- 
HOUSE. This  light  on  the  north 
shore  of  Lake  Superior  flashes 
warning  of  the  dangerous  reefs 
below  to  mariners  on  the  "Great 
Unsalted  Sea."  The  beam  has  a 
range  of  nearly  twenty  miles. 


(Right)     VIEW     FROM 
LIFT  BRIDGE,  DULUTH. 


AERIAL 


Photograph  by  courtesy  of  the  Dttliith  Chamber  of  Commerce. 

(Above)  FISHING  PARTY.  Sports  writers  and  radio  commentators  em- 
barking for  a  day  of  deep  sea  fishing  along  the  North  Shore.  Deep 
water  trolling  for  the  big  Superior  lake  trout  has  become  a  leading  sport. 


(Below)  GOLFING  AT  DULUTH.  Course  overlooks  Pike  Lake  on  the 
northern  outskirts  of  Duluth.  The  cool,  invigorating  climate  here  at  the 
westernmost  tip  of  Lake  Superior  is  ideal  for  summer  sports. 

Photograph  by  courtesy  of  the  Dtiltith  Chamber  of  Commerce. 


PASTANDPRESENT  27 

offer  opportunities  for  such  sports  as  brook  trout  fishing,  deep-sea 
fishing,  swimming,  sailing,  yachting,  and  canoeing.  Other  summer 
sports  gaining  favor  are  golf,  tennis,  cycling,  archery,  baseball,  dia- 
mondball,  and  horseback  riding. 

In  the  autumn,  football,  hiking  along  scenic  trails,  and  hunting 
— which  draws  nimrods  from  large  sections  of  the  country — are  great 
favorites  in  the  region. 

Winters  of  crispy  coldness  and  abundant  snowfall  make  the  Arrow- 
head country  unexcelled  for  such  sports  as  snowshoeing,  dog-team 
sledding,  sleigh  riding,  sliding,  and  tobogganing.  Skiing,  for  which 
the  hills  of  the  region  are  ideal,  skijoring  and  curling — one  of  the 
major  sports  in  Duluth — reflect  the  spirit  of  peoples  from  European 
countries.  Ice  boating  is  increasing  in  popularity,  especially  in  Duluth 
where  Superior  and  St.  Louis  Bays  and  the  St.  Louis  River  are  shel- 
tered. Another  highly  favored  winter  pastime  is  hockey.  Bowling 
also  shares  the  spotlight  with  basketball  in  winter  sports. 

A  winter-sports  center  recently  developed  at  Fond  du  Lac  bids  fair 
to  challenge,  both  in  magnitude  of  activities  and  in  scenic  beauty,  the 
fame  of  such  well-known  places  as  Lake  Placid  and  Sun  Valley. 

Swimming  is  fostered  by  the  schools,  some  of  which  are  equipped 
with  excellent  tanks.  Anne  Govednik,  the  Olympic  swimming  star, 
was  coached  at  Chisholm.  As  for  skating,  Lois  Dworshak  and  Anne 
Haroldson,  nationally  known  stars  in  that  sport,  received  their  train- 
ing in  Duluth.  Bobby  and  Ruby  Maxon  and  several  other  young 
skaters  who  also  had  their  early  training  in  Duluth  are  attracting 
the  eyes  of  the  nation. 

Completely  equipped  recreational  buildings  that  serve  as  community 
centers  are  more  common  than  uncommon  in  the  area,  and  most  dis- 
tricts have  recreational  boards  that  supervise  year-round  programs. 

SOCIAL  WORK 

Social  service  in  the  Arrowhead,  where  there  is  only  one  large 
industrial  center,  numerous  small  cities  and  villages,  and  an  overbalanc- 
ing rural  area,  has  presented  many  problems,  but  the  last  few  years 
have  seen  seven-league  strides  made  through  the  consolidation  of 
public  agencies  and  their  close  cooperation  with  private  endeavors. 
Most  of  the  municipalities  maintain  school  doctors  and  nurses,  and 
rural  schools  are  visited  regularly.  All  but  the  most  isolated  sections 
have  easy  access  to  hospitals,  and,  whereas  formerly  only  the  em- 


28  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

ployees  of  large  industrial  units  enjoyed  hospitalization,  now  this 
health  service  is  available  to  the  general  public. 

The  Duluth  Lighthouse  for  the  Blind,  located  in  the  Moore  Me- 
morial Building,  312  West  Superior  Street,  is  the  only  organization 
of  its  kind  in  the  Arrowhead.  It  aids  the  blind  in  the  teaching  of 
handicrafts  and  sale  of  products.  The  Lighthouse  welcomes  visitors 
who  may,  if  they  wish,  make  purchases  of  a  variety  of  handmade 
products. 

A  welcome  arrival  in  the  homes  of  many  cripples  is  the  visiting 
teacher  of  the  Homecrafters  Project,  developed  by  the  Minnesota 
Association  for  Crippled  Children  and  Disabled  Adults  and  at  present 
sponsored  by  the  State  department  of  education.  This  service  pro- 
vides educational,  recreational,  and  sheltered-employment  facilities  for 
the  permanently  disabled  homebound  adults.  The  project  operates 
only  in  Minnesota. 


ARTS  AND  LETTERS 

The  Arrowhead  has  contributed  much  to  the  field  of  fine  arts. 
Among  those  who  have  attained  national  recognition  are:  Margaret 
Culkin  Banning  and  Florence  Jaques,  authors;  Rose  Tentoni  and 
Estelle  Lenci,  opera  stars;  Paul  Le  May  and  Luigi  Lombardi,  con- 
ductors; Ernest  Lachmund,  composer;  Francis  Lee  Jaques,  bird  illus- 
trator; David  Ericson,  Knute  Heldner,  and  Birney  Quick,  painters, 
and  Sidney  Buchman,  scenario  writer.  Many  have  gained  prominence 
in  radio,  stage,  and  screen  work,  including  Warren  William,  Richard 
Arlen,  Judy  Garland,  Elinor  Harriot,  Merna  Pace,  Dorothy  Arnold, 
and  Rod  La  Roque. 


Great  Unsalted  Sea 


EKE  SUPERIOR  is  truly  magnificent.  It  is  the  largest  body  of 
fresh  water  in  the  world,  being  383  miles  long,  160  miles  wide, 
and  reaching  a  depth  of  1,290  feet.  Its  area  is  32,000  square 
miles,  its  maximum  tide  3  inches.  The  Chippewa  knew  it  as  Kitchi 
Gummi  (great  water),  and  poets  have  immortalized  it  in  verse  and 
song.  Its  waters  vary  in  temperature  only  a  few  degrees  throughout 
the  year;  thus  it  has  a  decided  effect  on  climate,  shortening  the  spring, 
cooling  the  summer,  tempering  and  prolonging  the  fall,  and  moderat- 
ing the  winter.  The  western  end  freezes  for  20  or  more  miles  from 
shore,  and  ice  was  recorded  as  38  inches  thick  in  the  winter  of  1904-05. 

The  lake  attracts  thousands  of  tourists  each  year  to  motor  along 
its  scenic  north  shore,  to  fish  for  trout  in  its  cold  plunging  streams, 
and  to  view  the  interesting  and  exciting  business  of  commercial  fish- 
ing. In  tranquillity,  Lake  Superior  is  impressive,  in  the  fury  of  a 
storm  it  is  awe-inspiring. 

Artifacts  found  along  lakeshores  and  rivers  attest  that,  long  before 
white  men  knew  of  the  existence  of  the  Great  Lakes,  Indians  from  as 
far  away  as  Saskatchewan  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  made  trips  to 
Lake  Superior.  The  first  authentic  accounts  of  the  lake  reached  the 
civilized  world  through  Samuel  de  Champlain,  who  in  the  early 
seventeenth  century  was  stationed  at  Quebec  as  New  France's  gover- 
nor and  lieutenant  general. 

Fired  by  the  dream  of  a  Northwest  Passage  to  the  Pacific,  he  at- 
tempted to  explore  the  region  several  times.  In  1623  or  1624,  he  sent 
out  Stephen  Brule  (Etienne  Brule),  who,  it  is  said,  traversed  the 
whole  length  of  the  great  inland  sea.  From  the  information  Brule 
brought  back,  and  items  gleaned  from  the  Huron  Indians,  Champlain 
in  1632  drafted  a  crude  map  of  the  region.  Father  Charles  Raym- 
bault  and  Father  Isaac  Jogues  attempted  to  repeat  Brule's  voyage  in 

29 


30  THE     MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

1641  but  got  only  as  far  as  the  Sault.  Then,  for  nearly  20  years, 
French  and  Indian  fighting  stopped  all  Northwest  exploration. 

After  Radisson  had  demonstrated  the  fortunes  to  be  had  from  furs, 
fur  trading  became  even  more  alluring  than  exploring.  Until  the 
end  of  the  Indian  War  in  1763,  expeditions  were  made  to  the  Upper 
Lakes  by  young  Frenchmen.  Many  of  them  became  past  masters  in 
the  art  of  persuading  the  Indians,  through  gifts  and  cajolery,  to  loot 
the  forests  of  pelts. 

Du  Lhut  established  trading  posts  along  the  north  shore  of  Lake 
Superior,  from  1679  to  1683.  Pushing  westward,  Noyon  paddled 
the  border  lakes  in  1687-88,  it  is  claimed.  Zacherie  Robutel,  Sieur 
de  la  Noue,  completed  the  buildings  and  stockade  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Kaministiquia  River  in  1717,  and  was  in  command  of  the  fort  until 
1721.  After  Verendrye  established  a  chain  of  forts  along  the  inland 
waterways  between  1731  and  1742,  quantities  of  furs  were  shipped 
annually  to  Grand  Portage.  They  were  transported  by  canoe  or  sail- 
boat to  Montreal  and  other  Eastern  ports  for  shipment  to  European 
markets. 

In  1762,  a  party  of  English  traders  with  a  military  escort  arrived 
at  Grand  Portage — the  first  voyage  on  the  lake  under  a  British  flag. 
It  was  not  until  three  years  later  that  English  trade  on  the  lake  began 
in  earnest.  In  1765,  Alexander  Henry  started  trading  operations  at 
Chequamegon  Bay  on  the  south  shore  of  Lake  Superior,  and  soon 
British  traders  were  operating  at  many  points  on  the  lake. 

Among  the  last  of  the  outstanding  French  explorer-traders  was 
Jean  Baptiste  Perrault,  who  in  1793  built  Fort  St.  Louis,  the  Northwest 
Company's  first  trading  post  at  the  head  of  the  lakes.  His  map 
indicates  the  presence  of  two  other  posts,  on  Connor's  Point  and 
Rice's  Point,  both  on  the  Duluth-Superior  Harbor. 

GRAND  PORTAGE 

Although  no  more  than  a  primeval  wilderness,  the  Arrowhead 
boasted  a  port  before  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was  signed  at 
Philadelphia.  This  port,  Grand  Portage,  was  the  metropolis  of  the 
fur  country,  and  it  enjoyed  flourishing  trade,  shops,  French  fashions, 
drinking  places,  and  even  law  enforcement.  The  story  of  the  settle- 
ment and  the  trail  that  runs  nine  miles  from  Lake  Superior  to  the 
upper  Pigeon  River  is  one  of  the  most  spectacular  and  colorful  in  all 
frontier  history  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  1). 


(Above)  GRAND  PORTAGE.  Situated  at  the  Lake  Superior  terminus  of 
the  old  Grand  Portage  Trail  from  Quebec  and  Montreal,  Grand  Portage 
was  the  outlet  for  much  of  the  fur  taken  in  the  days  of  the  old  North- 
west Territory.  It  was  the  Arrowhead's  earliest  and  most  colorful 
white  settlement. 


(Below)  DULUTH  HARBOR  AT  NIGHT.  View  of  the  Aerial  Lift  Bridge 
and  Minnesota  Point.  This  strip  of  sand  and  gravel,  nine  miles  long 
and  two  city  blocks  in  width,  was  formed  by  the  counteraction  of  the 
St.  Louis  River  and  Lake  Superior  after  the  last  glacier  melted.  It  is 
a  natural  breakwater  for  Duluth-Superior  Harbor. 


(Above)  OLD  FASHIONED  ORE  CARRIER.  This  type  of  freighter,  called 
the  "Whaleback,"  introduced  in  1889  by  Captain  Alexander  McDougall, 
of  Duluth,  has  now  passed  out  of  use. 


(Below)  MODERN  ORE  BOAT.  This  ship  will  take  on  a  capacity  cargo 
of  14,000  tons  of  iron  ore  through  her  sixteen  hatches  in  three  hours. 
This  is  the  equivalent  of  ten  trainloads,  of  thirty  cars  each.  The  ore 
fleet  moves  about  35,000,000  tons  each  season  from  the  Head-of-the- 
Lakes  to  furnaces  at  lower  lake  ports. 

Photograph  by  courtesy  of  the  Duluth  Chamber  of  Commerce. 


GREAT    UNSALTED     SEA  31 

By  1792,  the  Northwest  Company  maintained  its  central  depot 
here,  where  each  July  accounts  were  settled  with  its  wilderness  em- 
ployees. The  traders  arrived  from  Montreal  and  Quebec  in  flotillas 
of  lake  canoes  bringing  the  next  year's  supplies  and  goods  for  barter, 
and  the  fur-laden  river  canoes  of  voyageurs  filtered  in  from  the 
wilds.  In  1798,  the  post  consisted  of  sixteen  log  buildings  surrounded 
by  a  high  stockade,  with  lodging  for  officers  and  clerks,  a  huge  mess 
hall,  and  room  for  storage.  Beyond  the  enclosure  were  the  camps  of 
the  voyageurs,  tepees  of  the  Indians,  and  a  canoe  yard  that  accommo- 
dated 150  canoes. 

The  voyageurs,  mostly  French-Canadians  from  the  region  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  were  dramatic  figures.  All  excelled  as  boatmen,  per- 
forming the  amazing  feat  of  crossing  and  recrossing  from  Lake  Su- 
perior's Grand  Portage  to  the  Pacific's  Columbia  River,  their  trips 
timed  with  surprising  precision. 

Usually,  the  lake  canoe  carried  a  cargo  of  more  than  five  tons  and 
was  manned  by  fourteen  voyageurs,  while  those  on  the  interior  lakes 
and  rivers  carried  one  to  two  tons  and  could  be  handled  by  two  men. 

FROM  SAIL  TO  STEAM 

To  bring  schooners,  sloops,  and  brigs  to  the  greatest  of  the  lakes, 
the  fur  traders,  long  accustomed  to  portaging  canoes  around  barriers, 
dismantled  the  larger  craft  before  the  falls  of  the  St.  Mary's  River  at 
Sault  Ste.  Marie  and  reassembled  them  on  Lake  Superior.  The  first 
sailing  vessel  built  on  Lake  Superior  was  the  Ottawa,  launched  in 
1731  by  a  French  officer,  Louis  Denis  de  la  Ronde,  at  a  shipyard 
near  the  Sault. 

For  more  than  a  hundred  years,  sailing  vessels  were  built  and 
portaged.  Then,  in  1845,  came  the  first  steamboat,  the  Independence, 
a  propeller  craft  of  280  tons,  whose  maximum  speed  in  good  weather 
was  four  miles  an  hour.  In  1846,  another  steamboat,  the  Julia  Palmer, 
also  of  280  tons,  appeared.  In  that  year  sails  listed  in  the  census  of 
Lake  Superior  were  ".  .  .  three  of  70  tons,  Algonquin,  Swallow,  Mer- 
chant', four  of  40  tons,  Uncle  Tom,  Chippewa,  Fur  Trader,  Siskowit', 
one  of  50  tons,  White  fish."  Among  the  early  steamer  passengers  were 
the  elder  Merritts  and  their  seven  sons,  also  their  cow  Betsy,  coming 
from  Ohio.  Arriving  at  the  head  of  the  lakes,  they  established  a 
home  at  Oneota,  near  the  harbor. 

More  boats  of  both  sail  and  steam  came  into  demand  with  the 


32  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

beginning  and  development  of  mining  activity  on  the  south  shore  of 
Lake  Superior.  It  was  not  until  the  ship  canal  at  the  Sault  was  com- 
pleted in  1855  that  larger  vessels  were  able  to  make  their  way  up  from 
the  other  lakes. 

With  the  development  of  iron-ore  mining  on  the  Arrowhead  ranges 
came  the  problem  of  its  shipment  to  Eastern  furnaces.  The  shortness 
of  the  Lake  Superior  shipping  season  (usually  April  15  to  December  i) 
demanded  larger  bottoms  and  more  speed.  Ore  docks  were  improved 
to  such  an  extent  that  soon  a  new  type  of  lake  carrier  was  required, 
one  with  greater  carrying  capacity  and  ease  of  loading  and  unloading. 

The  need  was  filled  in  1889  when  Captain  Alexander  McDougall 
of  Duluth  introduced  his  lake  freighter — a  radical  departure  in  ship- 
building, as  its  engine  was  in  the  stern  instead  of  in  the  middle.  His 
first  freighters  were  called  whalebacks,  or  "pigs,"  as  they  were  dubbed 
by  salt-water  sailors.  Resembling  huge  cigars,  their  distinguishing 
feature  was  the  steel  deck  rounded  at  the  sides  over  cylinder-shaped 
holds.  Within  five  or  six  years,  45  whalebacks  of  varying  sizes  were 
built  at  Duluth.  Some  were  tried  for  a  brief  period  along  the  Atlantic 
Coast.  Their  seaworthiness  was  demonstrated  by  the  Charles  W. 
Wetmore,  which  carried  a  cargo  of  corn  from  New  York  to  Calcutta, 
India,  and  returned  by  way  of  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

Only  one  was  a  passenger  steamer.  This  vessel,  the  Christopher 
Columbus,  362  feet  long  and  the  largest  of  its  type,  was  one  of  the 
sights  at  the  World's  Fair  in  1893  in  Chicago.  It  was  used  for  short 
trips  between  the  city  and  the  Fair  Grounds,  since  its  construction 
permitted  disembarkation  of  5,000  passengers  in  five  minutes. 

Structural  changes  in  the  ore  docks  sounded  the  death  knell  of 
whalebacks  on  the  Great  Lakes,  and  no  more  were  built.  Modern  lake 
freighters,  600x58x70  feet  (called  6oo-footers),  carry  from  15,000  to 
16,000  tons  of  cargo  and  draw  only  1 8  to  20  feet.  The  largest  iron-ore 
carrier  in  the  world  is  the  Harry  Coulby,  built  in  Ohio  at  a  cost  of 
$1,250,000.  On  one  trip,  in  1929,  it  carried  16,371  tons. 

At  several  points  along  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Superior,  naviga- 
tion is  difficult  and  hazardous  because  of  magnetic  deflection  of  the 
compass.  When  visibility  is  poor,  captains  estimate  their  distance  from 
land  by  the  time  required  for  the  echo  of  the  ship's  whistle  to  return. 
Shore  depths  still  are  uncertain,  although  soundings  become  more 
reliable  as  the  charting  of  the  lake  bottom  progresses. 

Human  imagination  is  taxed,  in  these  days  of  modern  transporta- 
tion facilities,  to  understand  how  the  early  navigators  dared,  with 


GREATUNSALTEDSEA  33 

their  crude  and  primitive  craft,  to  sail  a  body  of  water  as  large  and, 
at  times,  as  treacherous  as  Lake  Superior.  Today,  navigation  makes 
use  of  such  modern  devices  as  the  radio  beam  and  improved  meteor- 
ological instruments.  These,  combined  with  more  rigid  safety  rules, 
make  a  lake  trip  comparatively  safe,  as  well  as  a  most  interesting  and 
enjoyable  experience. 


DULUTH-SUPERIOR  HARBOR 

Of  natural  harbors,  the  best  on  the  Great  Lakes  and  one  of  the 
best  in  the  world  is  the  Duluth-Superior.  It  has  dominated  the  growth 
and  development  of  the  head  of  the  lakes  from  the  time  the  first  native 
sought  shelter  within  it.  Although  open  but  eight  months  of  the 
year,  it  is  second  in  tonnage  only  to  New  York  Harbor. 

The  Duluth-Superior  Harbor  has  an  area  of  19  square  miles,  front- 
age of  49  miles,  17  miles  of  dredged  channels,  and  99  docks.  The 
total  capacity  of  its  25  grain  elevators  is  46,925,000  bushels.  The  coal 
docks,  with  a  capacity  of  13,013,000  tons,  are  among  the  largest  in  the 
world. 

Average  yearly  commerce  is  more  than  48,000,000  net  tons,  and  in 
1929  it  exceeded  60,000,000.  In  1937,  vessels  arriving  and  departing 
numbered  10,271,  many  of  which  were  from  distant  ports.  The 
Minnesota  tonnage  tax  is  the  lowest  in  the  country,  and  Duluth  de- 
mands no  enrollment  fee. 

After  the  last  glacier  had  melted,  the  counteraction  of  the  St.  Louis 
River  and  Lake  Superior  caused  a  nine-mile  long  deposition  of  sand 
and  gravel  between  the  north  and  south  shores  of  the  lake.  This 
finger  of  land,  Minnesota  Point,  whose  width  is  about  that  of  two 
city  blocks,  forms  the  Duluth-Superior  Harbor's  natural  breakwater. 
There  are  two  entries :  one  natural,  the  Superior  Ship  Canal,  cut  by  the 
St.  Louis  River;  the  other,  man-made,  the  Duluth  Ship  Canal. 

With  the  opening  in  1855  of  the  Sault  Ste.  Marie  Canal — now  the 
greatest  sea-highway  in  the  world — connecting  Lake  Huron  and  Lake 
Superior,  interlake  shipping  was  made  possible.  The  first  Government 
improvement  was  the  building  of  a  lighthouse  at  the  Superior  Entry 
in  1857.  It  proved  a  useless  construction,  as,  shortly  after  its  com- 
pletion, the  entry  shifted  nearly  half  a  mile  south.  Development  was 
begun  on  the  new  Superior  Entry,  but,  before  the  work  was  completed 
in  1875,  Duluth  had  dug  its  own  canal  and  was  in  the  midst  of  its 
classic  row  with  the  State  of  Wisconsin.  Superior,  although  it  had 'the 


34  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

only  harbor  facilities  in  the  1850'$,  watched  with  envy  the  rapid  growth 
of  the  Minnesota  settlement  across  the  bay. 

Both  cities  built  their  hopes  on  the  harbor,  but  to  derive  full  benefit 
from  it,  they  realized  that  they  must  have  railroads  to  the  interior. 
By  1857,  Duluth  had  secured  charters  for  a  railroad  and  a  ship  canal, 
but  the  Panic  and  the  Civil  War  delayed  all  enterprise  for  ten  years. 
At  last,  during  1868,  construction  of  the  Lake  Superior  and  Mississippi 
Railroad  was  begun  at  St.  Paul. 

With  the  coming  of  the  railroad,  agitation  increased  in  Duluth  for 
a  harbor  of  its  own.  The  citizens  decided  to  cut  a  canal  through 
Minnesota  Point.  Dredging  was  begun  in  the  fall  of  1870  and  almost 
completed  by  the  following  spring.  Then  Superior,  convinced  that 
such  a  canal  would  damage  its  natural  entrance,  prevailed  upon  the 
United  States  Circuit  Court  to  issue  an  injunction  restraining  further 
operations. 

On  a  Saturday  afternoon  in  1871,  Sidney  Luce,  a  prominent  Duluth- 
ian,  received  word  that  this  order  would  be  served  the  following 
Monday.  Early  Sunday  morning,  fifty  grimly  resolute  men  went  to 
work  with  pick,  shovel,  and  wheelbarrow.  By  noon  a  narrow  stream 
began  to  trickle  through  from  the  bay,  whose  waters,  six  inches  higher 
than  the  lake,  then  rapidly  widened  the  channel.  By  midafternoon, 
a  rowboat  passed  through,  and  the  following  morning  Captain  Sher- 
wood's tug  Fero  steamed  from  bay  to  lake,  its  tied-down  whistle 
tooting  defiance.  Ten  days  later  the  injunction  was  dissolved,  but  only 
on  condition  that  Duluth  build  a  dike  from  Rice's  Point  to  Minnesota 
Point  (across  the  bay)  to  prevent  currents  being  turned  from  the 
Superior  Entry.  This  dike  later  had  to  be  removed,  and  today  only 
a  few  pilings  remain. 

In  1893,  after  much  jealous  antagonism  and  litigation,  Duluth  and 
Superior  agreed  to  bury  the  hatchet  and  develop  their  joint  interests. 
Three  years  later,  Congress  designated  the  landlocked  waters  of  the 
two  cities  as  one,  the  Duluth-Superior  Harbor,  appropriating  $3,000,000 
for  its  development.  New  and  longer  piers  were  constructed,  chan- 
nels were  improved,  the  Duluth  Ship  Canal  was  widened,  and  new 
lighthouses  were  built. 

The  Duluth  Ship  Canal  now  has  two  1,734-foot  piers,  300  feet  apart, 
and  is  spanned  by  a  lift-bridge  erected  by  Duluth  in  1930;  the  Superior 
Ship  Canal  has  one  i, 584-foot  pier  and  one  2,096-foot,  500  feet  apart, 
and  two  converging  breakwaters.  Both  are  equipped  with  lighthouses, 
fog  signals,  and  radio  beacons.  Their  piers  are  electrically  lighted 


GREATUNSALTEDSEA  35 

promenades.  Jurisdiction  is  vested  in  the  War  Department,  with  the 
Corps  o£  Engineers  in  charge.  Customs,  steamboat,  and  immigration 
inspection,  and  patrol  and  coast  guard  services  are  maintained.  The 
United  States  Weather  Bureau  issues  reports  daily,  and  a  Navy 
Department  hydrographic  office  issues  ice  bulletins  and  other  aids  to 
navigation. 

COMMERCIAL  FISHING 

The  waters  of  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead  have  been,  from  the 
earliest  days,  one  of  the  dependable  sources  of  food.  Fish  has  always 
been  plentiful  in  the  rivers  and  lakes,  particularly  in  Lake  Superior. 
For  the  Indians  and  early  settlers,  fishing  was  a  necessity,  a  matter 
of  subsistence.  The  fish  had,  strictly  speaking,  no  commercial  value  in 
the  days  when  the  region  was  but  sparsely  settled  and  fish  could  be 
had  by  everybody  with  little  effort.  There  was,  furthermore,  no  out- 
side demand,  owing  to  the  lack  of  transportation  facilities.  Most  of 
the  early  settlers  in  this  region  would  have  faced  starvation  many 
times,  had  it  not  been  for  the  abundance  of  fish  in  the  "pond"  at  their 
doorsteps.  When  food  supplies  were  low,  they  lived  on  fish — fish 
three  times  a  day  for  weeks  on  end.  It  is  small  wonder  that  in  other 
parts  of  the  country  they  were  spoken  of  as  the  "fish  eaters"  at  the 
head  of  the  lakes. 

It  was  in  1836  that  the  American  Fur  Company  decided  to  market 
Lake  Superior  whitefish  on  a  commercial  scale.  A  fishing  station 
was  established  at  Grand  Portage,  where  only  a  few  warehouses  re- 
mained from  fur-trading  days,  and  soon  this  was  followed  by  others 
at  Isle  Encampment  and  Isle  Royale,  and  later  at  La  Pointe  and 
Fond  du  Lac.  From  300  to  500  barrels,  mostly  whitefish  and  trout, 
were  shipped  annually  from  Grand  Portage  alone,  and  in  1839  the 
company  owned  at  least  three  large  fishing  schooners. 

With  the  collapse  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  the  industry 
as  big  business  came  to  an  end,  not  to  be  revived  for  many  years. 
Nevertheless,  individuals  here  and  there  continued  the  trade,  and  dur- 
ing the  panics  of  1857  and  1873  fishing  was  all  that  kept  many  settlers 
alive,  for  Lake  Superior  fish  were  legal  tender  in  almost  any  market. 

Today,  commercial  fishing  along  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Superior 
is  a  profitable  industry.  More  than  four-fifths  of  the  yearly  catch  of 
almost  8,500,000  pounds  are  herring,  with  trout,  whitefish,  ciscoes, 
and  suckers  making  up  the  balance.  Most  are  caught  with  gill  nets 


36  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

at  night,  though  for  lake  trout  setlines  sometimes  are  stretched  be- 
tween two  anchor  buoys,  from  which  50  to  60  supplementary  lines  are 
suspended,  baited  with  small  fish  called  shiners.  There  is  no  closed 
season  for  lake  trout,  and  fishermen  may  ply  their  trade  even  in  the 
spawning  season,  on  the  condition  that  they  bring  the  spawn  to  the 
French  River  Hatchery  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  /).  The  fishermen's 
homes — some  of  the  older  ones  log  structures — hug  the  shore  along 
bays  and  inlets. 


<*0rx4*&*&l&r*&r*<&*&*&r>^J<^ 


PART  II 

National  Forests 


l^<*Qr*^r*&*&V*0V^<s0K<0Ks0^0^^ 


•<0*<0V<0v4?^r*^0r*^*<0r*<^^ 


Chippewa  National  Forest 


WHILE  THE  point  of  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead  region — 
between  Lake  Superior  and  the  chain  of  border  lakes — em- 
braces the  Superior  National  Forest,  the  broad  western 
base  of  the  Arrowhead  includes  another  Federal  Reserve — the  Chip- 
pewa National  Forest,  so  named  for  the  Chippewa  Indians,  one  of  the 
main  tribes  of  Algonquian  stock. 

Under  an  act  of  Congress,  the  forest  was  established  by  President 
Theodore  Roosevelt  on  June  27,  1902,  as  a  Federal  Reserve.  On  May 
23,  1908,  the  Minnesota  National  Forest  was  proclaimed,  and  on  June 
22, 1928,  the  present  name  was  adopted.  Additions  were  made,  and  on 
December  29,  1936,  the  entire  area  of  1,312,824  acres  was  proclaimed 
Chippewa  National  Forest. 

The  region,  in  geological  times,  was  invaded  by  ice  lobes  from 
the  north  and  from  the  northwest,  as  evidenced  by  lateral  and  terminal 
moraine  deposits.  The  recession  of  the  glaciers  also  left  depressions, 
many  of  which  are  now  filled  with  water,  forming  the  lakes  of  the 
forest.  The  northeastern  section  drains  through  the  Big  Fork  River 
to  the  Rainy  River  and  thence  to  Hudson  Bay,  but  the  main  area  of 
the  forest  is  drained  by  the  Mississippi  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

The  Chippewa  National  Forest  is  located  in  Itasca,  Cass,  and  Bel- 
trami  counties.  The  topography  varies  from  very  flat  or  undulating 
in  some  parts  to  very  hilly  in  others.  The  average  elevation  is  about 
1,300  feet  above  sea  level.  The  soil  varies  from  flat  sand  plains  to 
heavy  clay  and  stony  soil  in  the  more  hilly  portions. 

Approximately  460  lakes  are  distributed  over  the  area,  some  of  the 
larger  being  Leech  Lake,  Lake  Winnibigoshish,  Cass  Lake,  Bowstring 
Lake,  Sand  Lake,  Ball  Club  Lake,  Island  Lake,  Mud  Lake,  Boy  Lake, 
Turtle  Lake,  Squaw  Lake,  Cut  Foot  Sioux  Lake,  Big  Rice  Lake, 
Round  Lake. 

39 


40  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

Until  the  middle  o£  the  nineteenth  century,  trapping  and  fur  trad- 
ing were  the  only  means  of  making  a  living  in  the  area.  It  was 
not  until  the  1890'$  that  logging  operations  were  begun  in  the  forest. 
Gradually  the  major  part  of  the  original  growth  of  timber  was 
removed. 

With  the  advent  of  the  railroad  came  the  first  settlers.  Farming 
on  a  small  scale  began,  and  the  first  village  came  into  being.  The 
region  attracted  the  attention  of  the  Federal  Government — resulting 
in  the  creation  of  the  Federal  Reserve — and  early  recreationists  spread 
the  fame  of  its  scenic  beauty. 

From  an  Indian  point  of  view,  the  area  now  embraced  in  the 
Chippewa  National  Forest  must  come  very  close  to  their  conception 
of  our  Garden  of  Eden — Happy  Hunting  Grounds — with  plenty  of 
fish,  plenty  of  game,  and  plenty  of  wild  rice.  Along  the  shores  of  its 
many  lakes,  thousands  upon  thousands  can  find  recreation,  and  hunters 
and  fishermen  will  seldom  be  disappointed. 

Star  Island,  in  Cass  Lake,  is  the  location  of  one  of  the  outstanding 
public  camping  sites  of  the  forest,  namely,  Star  Island  Campground. 
Three  other  camping  sites  on  Cass  Lake  are:  Knutson  Dam  Camp- 
ground, on  the  northern  part  of  the  east  shore;  Norway  Beach 
Campground,  with  its  beautiful,  mature  red-pine  stands,  on  the  south- 
ern part  of  the  east  shore  and  immediately  north  of  US  2,  where  it 
approaches  Cass  Lake  from  the  east;  Ojibway  Campground,  south 
of  US  2,  on  a  road  circling  Pike  Bay,  leading  through  an  area  of  ten 
sections  of  virgin  Norway  pine,  that  has  been  permanently  reserved 
for  recreational  purposes  by  the  Federal  Government. 

About  five  miles  (airline  distance)  due  south  of  Ojibway  Camp- 
ground, on  the  south  shore  of  a  small  lake,  is  Lake  Thirteen  Camp- 
ground; seven  miles  farther  south,  on  the  east  shore  of  the  northern 
arm  of  the  westernmost  bay  of  Leech  Lake,  is  Squaw  Point  Camp- 
ground; another  five  miles  south,  on  the  east  shore  of  Walker  Bay, 
three  miles  northeast  of  Walker,  is  Walker  Bay  Campground. 

Near  Walker,  the  Forest  Service  has  built  a  Winter  Sports  Area, 
with  toboggan  slide,  ski  runs,  ski  trails,  shelter,  and  parking  spaces. 

The  above-named  seven  public  campsites  are  located  near  the  west- 
ern edge  of  the  forest.  Near  the  southeastern  corner  of  the  forest, 
on  State  34,  eight  miles  west  of  Remer,  is  Mabel  Lake  Campground; 
about  18  miles  due  north  of  Mabel  Lake,  near  US  2,  is  Six  Mile  Lake 
Campground;  six  miles  due  north  from  there,  on  a  road  connecting 
US  2  and  State  46,  is  Idlewild  Campground;  nine  miles  north- 


CHIPPEWA  NATIONAL  FOREST  4! 

northeast  from  there,  between  State  46  and  the  east  shore  of  Cut  Foot 
Sioux  Lake,  is  Williams  Narrows  Campground;  three  miles  north- 
west from  there,  at  the  northern  tip  of  Cut  Foot  Sioux  Lake,  is  Seeley 
Point  Campground;  and  15  miles  southwest  from  there,  on  the  south 
shore  of  Lake  Winnibigoshish,  16  miles  east  from  the  village  of  Cass 
Lake  on  US  2,  is  Richards  Townsite  Campground.  The  last  five 
campsites  are  clustered  around  Lake  Winnibigoshish,  in  the  central 
part  of  the  forest. 

Caribou  Lake  Campground  is  near  the  eastern  edge,  on  State  38, 
22  miles  north  of  Grand  Rapids.  The  Forest  Service  has  built  a  mod- 
ern forest  camp  on  small  Rugby  Lake,  three  miles  southeast  from 
Caribou  Lake.  This  new  camp — called  Organization  Camp — was  es- 
tablished especially  for  the  purpose  of  providing  camping  facilities 
for  such  organizations  as  church  groups,  Boy  and  Girl  Scouts,  4-H 
Clubs,  and  others. 

There  are  about  360  privately  owned  summer  resorts  within  the 
area  of  Chippewa  National  Forest,  157  tourist  homes  under  permit, 
and  many  more  on  privately  owned  land. 

The  District  Headquarters  of  the  United  States  Forest  Service 
are  at  Cass  Lake.  Ranger  stations  are  at  Bena,  Blackduck,  Cass  Lake, 
Cut  Foot  Sioux,  Dora  Lake,  Marcell,  Remer,  and  Walker.  For  fire 
detection,  21  permanent  lookout  stations  are  distributed  in  the  forest. 
From  the  lookout  towers,  visitors  may  obtain  excellent  views  of  the 
area. 

Federal  highways  2  and  371  traverse  the  forest,  and  State  highways 
34,  6,  46,  and  38  afford  easy  access  to  all  parts  of  the  region.  In  addi- 
tion, there  are  642  miles  of  Forest  Service  truck  trails  winding  through 
the  forest,  many  of  which  make  delightful  drives. 

The  upper  Mississippi,  born  in  near-by  Itasca  State  Park,  flows 
through  Lake  Bemidji  and  then  winds  its  way  from  west  to  east 
through  the  central  part  of  the  forest,  crossing  Cass  Lake  and  Lake 
Winnibigoshish  and,  incidentally,  marking  here  the  line  between  Cass 
County  and  Itasca  County. 

The  Mississippi — from  the  Algonquian,  meaning  "Great  River" — 
the  chief  river  of  North  America,  the  Father  of  Waters,  the  dividing 
line  between  East  and  West,  figuratively  the  spinal  cord  and  literally 
the  backbone  of  the  United  States  in  more  than  one  respect,  had  been 
one  of  the  main  objects  of  attraction  from  the  time  of  the  earliest 
explorers  of  the  New  World  to  the  days  of  Henry  R.  Schoolcraft,  the 
discoverer  of  its  source  in  1832  (see  Cass  La\e). 


42  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

"It  was  first  made  known  by  name  to  Europeans  in  the  Jesuit 
Relation  of  1666-67,  published  in  Paris  in  1668,  which  mentions  'the 
great  river  named  Messipi.'"  Louis  Jolliet  and  Father  Marquette 
arrived  in  1673  at  the  confluence  of  the  Wisconsin  River  with  the  Mis- 
sissippi; they  are  considered  the  discoverers  of  the  upper  reaches  of 
the  great  river.  Jonathan  Carver,  in  1766,  first  described  and  mapped 
the  river  with  its  present  spelling,  "which  was  followed  by  Pike,  Cass 
and  Schoolcraft,  Long  and  Keating,  Beltrami,  and  all  the  later 
writers." 

The  Mississippi  enters  Chippewa  National  Forest  about  one  mile 
west  of  small  Long  Lake,  crosses  its  southern  tip,  and  then  flows 
through  the  northern  part  of  adjoining  Cass  Lake — so  named  by 
Schoolcraft  in  honor  of  Governor  Cass  of  Michigan,  the  head  of  the 
great  expedition  of  1820.  A  narrow  channel — bridged  by  US  2 — con- 
nects the  main  body  of  Cass  Lake  with  its  southern  part,  Pike  Bay, 
named  for  Lieutenant  Zebulon  M.  Pike,  the  commander  of  an  expe- 
dition "sent  to  the  upper  Mississippi  in  1805-06  by  the  United  States 
War  Department." 

In  the  northwestern  corner  of  Cass  Lake,  not  far  from  the  main- 
land, is  Star  Island — so  called  for  its  shape — an  old  Indian  domain. 
When  Schoolcraft,  in  1832,  was  on  the  island  with  his  guide,  Chief 
Ozawindib,  there  was  a  village — bearing  the  name  of  the  chief — of 
157  persons,  and  he  saw  "small  fields  of  corn  and  potatoes,  cultivated 
by  the  women." 

Eight  miles  (airline  distance)  east  of  Cass  Lake,  the  Mississippi 
enters  a  large  and  shallow  body  of  water,  Lake  Winnibigoshish,  which 
covers  77  square  miles  in  the  heart  of  the  forest.  Bena,  a  tourist 
center,  lies  at  its  southern  tip  and  Seeley  Point  Campground  near 
its  northern  shore.  The  Mississippi  flows  through  the  lake  from 
southwest  to  northeast,  and,  from  the  point  where  it  leaves  the  main 
body  of  the  lake,  it  runs  in  a  general  southeast  direction  to  the 
eastern  border  of  the  forest,  crossing  US  2  at  the  small  village  of 
Ball  Club. 

From  Bena  it  is  four  miles  to  the  northernmost  tip  of  Leech 
Lake,  where  the  small  settlement  of  Portage  Lake  is  located.  Leech 
Lake,  with  its  173  square  miles  of  surface,  the  third  largest  body  of 
water  within  the  State,  has  "a  very  irregular  outline,  with  numerous 
bays  and  projecting  points,  and  it  contains  several  islands." 

The  Leech  Lake  region  is  of  unusual  historic  interest.  William 
Morrison,  a  widely  known  fur  trader,  was  stationed  here  in  1802  in 


(Above)  RUNNING  THE  RAPIDS.  The  swift  water  of  the  Agamak 
River,  from  Agamak  Lake  to  Ogishkemuncie  Lake,  in  Superior  National 
Forest. 


(Below)  VIEW  OF  BEARSKIN  LAKE.  This  beauty  spot  on  the  Gunflint 
Trail,  is  encountered  on  one  of  the  many  canoe  trips  leading  through  a 
wilderness  that  is  untouched  by  the  hand  of  man  save  where  camp-sites 
and  portage  landings  have  been  improved  for  the  convenience  of 
visitors. 

Photograph  by  courtesy  of  the  Minnesota  Tourist  Bureau. 


j 


Photograph  by  Gallagher,  Dithtth. 


(Above}  SAGANAGA  LAKE, 
MINNESOTA  ARROWHEAD.  The 
famous  Gunflint  Trail  ends 
here  at  the  Canadian  border. 


(Left)  A  TRYST  WITH  THE 
TROUT.  Glimpse  of  the  Goose- 
berry River,  in  the  Minnesota 
Arrowhead  Country.  The 
region  is  threaded  with  clear 
swift-running  streams. 


CHIPPEWANATIONALFOREST  43 

the  service  of  the  X  Y  Company,  while  his  younger  brother,  Allan, 
had  charge  of  a  fur-trading  post  at  Leech  Lake  after  1820.  Morrison 
County  was  named  in  honor  of  these  two  brothers. 

Lieutenant  Pike,  explorer  of  the  upper  Mississippi,  visited,  in  Feb- 
ruary, 1806,  a  trading  post  of  the  Northwest  Company,  which  was 
"about  two  miles  distant  to  the  northwest  from  the  North  Narrows — 
opposite  to  Goose  Island." 

In  1833,  the  Reverend  William  Thurston  Boutwell  established  a 
mission  "on  or  near  the  isthmus  that  connects  the  Peninsula  with  the 
mainland  of  the  present  Leech  Lake  Agency,"  where  he  remained 
for  four  years. 

In  1836,  the  famous  geographer  and  cartographer,  Joseph  N.  Nicol- 
let,  had  his  camping  place,  for  a  week,  on  Otter  Tail  Point.  "On 
Nicollet's  return  from  Lake  Itasca,  by  way  of  the  Mississippi  anot 
Cass  Lake,  he  again  camped  on  Otter  Tail  Point  during  the  first  week 
of  September,  visited  with  Boutwell,  and  had  long  interviews  with 
Flat  Mouth,  the  very  intelligent,  friendly,  and  respected  chief  of  the 
Pillager  Ojibways."  A  village  of  these  Chippewa  Indians  was  located 
on  the  north  end  of  the  Peninsula,  at  the  North  Narrows,  when 
Schoolcraft  visited  there  in  1832,  and  east  of  this  village  was  a  trading 
house  of  the  American  Fur  Company. 

"Flea  Point,  called  Sugar  Point  on  Schoolcraft's  map  of  Leech 
Lake,"  was,  in  1898,  the  site  of  the  last  battle  between  Indians  (Chip- 
pewa) and  white  soldiers  in  Minnesota.  In  this  battle,  Major  Melvin 
C.  Wilkinson  lost  his  life. 

With  the  advance  of  white  men,  the  Indians  were  forced  to  re- 
treat, and,  through  a  number  of  "Indian  treaties,"  they  were  confined 
to  Indian  reservations.  Much  of  the  Chippewa  National  Forest  was 
formerly  an  Indian  reservation,  but,  under  the  Act  of  May  23,  1908, 
the  Indians  ceded  part  of  their  reservation  to  the  Government,  in- 
cluding the  virgin  timber  around  Cass  Lake  and  Pike  Bay.  The 
rest  of  the  timber  was  sold  by  the  Indians,  the  cutting  being  com- 
pleted in  1923.  The  cutting  policy  reserved  five  per  cent  of  the  stand 
for  seed  trees  during  the  period  from  1902  to  1908,  and  ten  per  cent 
of  the  stand  from  1908  until  the  logging  was  completed.  Ten  sec- 
tions of  virgin  Norway  pine  were  permanently  reserved.  The  remain- 
ing stands  of  merchantable  umber — about  100,000  acres  in  1940 — 
consist  largely  of  jack  pine,  red  pine,  white  pine,  aspen,  birch,  balsam, 
and  mixed  hardwoods. 

The  land  and  resources  of  the  forest  are  managed  so  as  to  bring 


44  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

the  greatest  value  to  the  largest  number  of  people.  Constant  improve- 
ment is  being  planned  and  accomplished  for  the  protection  of  the 
forest  from  fire,  insects,  and  disease.  Valuable  timber  is  being  in- 
creased by  reforestation  at  a  rate  of  approximately  5,000  acres  annually. 
Second-growth  timber  stands  are  being  improved  by  giving  the  neces- 
sary release  to  crop  trees,  by  the  cutting  out  of  dead  and  diseased  trees, 
and  by  pruning.  The  mature  stands  are  being  utilized  by  selling  the 
timber  to  local  people  on  a  sustained-yield  basis,  at  the  rate  of 
approximately  20,000,000  board  feet  per  year.  Land-use  plans  have 
been  prepared  to  classify  all  areas  of  the  forest. 


1s0*^K<0^r*0rx^0rx^^0v,0Vj0^^^ 


Superior  National  Forest 


<&<0*<0>*&*&T^0r*4rx0v^^ 

THE  SUPERIOR  NATIONAL  FOREST,  beginning  with  an 
initial  grant  of  36,000  acres  in  1909,  is  one  of  the  great  wilder- 
ness areas  of  the  United  States.  Lying  entirely  within  the 
tip  of  the  Arrowhead,  it  covers  a  total  of  3,725,849  acres,  of  which 
1,830,977  are  Federal;  612,754,  State;  and  1,282,118,  private  property. 

To  the  north  is  a  similar  Canadian  territory,  a  part  of  which  is 
known  as  the  Quetico  Provincial  Park,  and  together  they  form  a 
matchless  canoe  country,  where  cold  waters,  teeming  with  fish,  sparkle 
in  lakes  and  streams  often  separated  by  mere  strips  of  land  or  united 
by  tumbling  rapids. 

The  forest  contains  more  than  5,000  lakes,  ranging  in  size  from  a 
few  acres  to  70  square  miles.  Great  glaciers  carved  its  countless  val- 
leys and  ridges.  Most  of  the  northern  portion  drains  into  Hudson 
Bay  through  Rainy  River  and  Lake  of  the  Woods;  the  southern  part, 
including  the  extreme  eastern  tip,  drains  through  numerous  swift 
streams  into  Lake  Superior. 

A  State  game  refuge  of  1,175,040  acres  offers  a  wide  variety  of 
game  fish,  from  salmon  trout  to  muskellunge — commonly  called 
"muskies." 

For  centuries  in  this  great  wilderness  area,  the  Indians  in  birch- 
bark  canoes  skimmed  quiet  waters  and  shot  treacherous  rapids,  hunted 
and  fished,  picked  berries,  harvested  wild  rice,  walked  the  trails  with 
moccasined  feet.  To  this  Arrowhead  region  came  the  fur  traders, 
shouldering  their  heavy  burdens  as  they  crossed  the  portages.  Here 
the  Hudson's  Bay  and  Northwest  companies  fought  for  trade  su- 
premacy. Here  the  romance  of  the  past  is  preserved  for  the  enjoyment 
of  all  who  visit  the  region. 

Camps  and  picnic  grounds  in  the  Superior  National  Forest  are 
made  ready  for  summer  visitors  by  the  National  Forestry  Department. 

45 


46  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

Development  of  these  public  facilities  has  been  accomplished  by  the 
Forest  Service  during  the  last  few  years,  in  order  that  visitors  to  the 
Arrowhead  region  may  enjoy  the  full  benefits  of  the  national  forest. 
Rustic  and  simple  in  design,  they  provide  the  necessities  of  good 
water  and  sanitary  facilities,  safe  open  fireplaces,  tent  sites,  tables,  and 
rough  firewood,  in  a  natural  setting  where  the  cares  of  everyday  life 
may  be  forgotten. 

For  the  convenience  of  wilderness  travelers,  there  are  also  30  im- 
proved canoe  campgrounds  located  along  the  portage  routes.  Improve- 
ments at  these  locations  have  been  held  to  a  minimum  to  preserve 
the  naturalness  of  the  territory  and  yet  provide  the  necessities  for  fire 
prevention  and  sanitation. 

Along  the  Sawbill  Road  out  of  Tofte  are  the  Oxbow  and  Poplar 
River  campgrounds,  both  located  on  good  trout  streams,  and  the  Saw- 
bill  campground  at  the  end  of  the  road  and  the  edge  of  the  Superior 
canoe  country. 

Between  Finland  and  Ely  are  three  developments,  at  Dumbell 
Lake  near  Isabella,  on  the  Little  Isabella  River,  and  at  the  South 
Kawishiwi  River  southeast  of  Ely.  The  South  Kawishiwi  Camp  and 
Picnic  Ground  is  a  major  development,  including  facilities  for  auto 
trailers  and  a  large  community  building  and  grounds  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  large  picnic  parties. 

The  Federal  Government,  since  assuming  control  of  the  Superior 
National  Forest,  has  instituted  an  intensive  program  of  conservation 
through  its  Forestry  Department.  The  1940  spring  planting  program 
included  4,304,300  trees  planted  on  3,850  acres.  The  trees  planted 
consisted  of  red  pine,  white  pine,  jack  pine,  white  spruce,  and  northern 
white  cedar.  In  addition,  5,500  acres  were  prepared  during  the  sum- 
mer of  1940  for  planting  in  the  fall  and  the  spring  of  1941,  the  Knife 
River  Nursery  at  Two  Harbors  and  the  Eveleth  Nursery  at  Eveleth 
being  equipped  to  furnish  6,000,000  trees  for  these  plantings. 

Slash  and  other  hazards  have  been  removed  from  40,400  acres; 
550  miles  of  roads  have  been  built;  101  miles  of  portages  have  been 
improved;  and  81  miles  of  trails  added.  From  25  Federal  and  7  State 
lookout  stations,  all  strategically  placed,  foresters  watch  for  smoke. 
Each  Civilian  Conservation  Corps  and  work  camp  is  a  fire-fighting 
unit. 

A  seaplane  is  used  for  forest  fire  patrol  when  visibility  is  low, 
and  for  initial  attack  on  fires  in  areas  not  accessible  by  road.  It  accom- 
modates three  men  besides  the  pilot,  and  carries  hand  fire-fighting 


SUPERIORNATIONALFOREST  47 

equipment.  Planes  are  also  used  for  observation  of  going  fires.  Under 
emergency  conditions,  local  commercial  planes  are  also  used  for  patrol 
or  fire  observation  on  other  national  forests  throughout  the  region. 

Fire  prevention  in  this  wilderness  area  has  reached  a  state  of 
efficiency  little  dreamed  of  a  few  years  ago.  It  has  become  more  and 
more  a  public  responsibility,  with  the  forest's  increasing  use  as  a 
recreational  area,  for  most  of  the  fires  are  caused  by  careless  campers. 

Game  and  fish  specialists  and  recreational  engineers  are  cooperat- 
ing in  the  protection  of  wild  life  in  the  forest.  Each  year,  waters 
are  restocked.  Fish  are  planted  in  the  lakes  and  streams  in  cooperation 
with  the  United  States  Bureau  of  Fisheries  and  the  Minnesota  Con- 
servation Department. 

During  the  spring  of  1940,  500,000  brook  trout  were  planted  in 
feeder  streams  and  suitable  cold-water  lakes,  and  354,000  lake  trout, 
30,000  brown  trout,  and  approximately  7,000,000  wall-eyed  pike  were 
planted  in  interior  lakes  already  stocked  with  these  species.  The  For- 
est Service  is  also  cooperating  with  the  State  Conservation  Department 
at  the  Tower  Hatchery  in  the  transportation  of  the  pike  to  lakes  where 
they  are  to  be  planted. 

The  Cascade  rearing  ponds  near  Grand  Marais  were  stocked  with 
150,000  brook,  rainbow,  and  brown  trout  during  the  first  week  in 
June.  These  fish  are  held  in  the  ponds  until  fall,  when  they  average 
three  to  six  inches  in  length.  They  are  used  to  stock  lakes  and 
streams  within  the  forest. 

In  cooperation  with  the  United  States  Bureau  of  Fisheries,  the 
Forest  Service  assisted  in  tagging  1,000  wall-eyed  pike  on  Everett  and 
Twin  Lakes.  As  the  tagged  fish  are  caught  by  fishermen  during  the 
summer,  they  are  reported  to  local  game  wardens.  In  this  way,  rec- 
ords are  kept  of  the  movements  and  rate  of  growth  of  the  fish. 

By  careful  and  continued  restocking  of  streams  and  lakes,  the 
Forest  Service  and  the  Minnesota  Conservation  Department  maintain 
good  fishing  in  the  waters  of  the  Superior  National  Forest. 

Trout  streams  have  been  improved  with  dams,  deflectors,  shelters, 
better  banks  and  bottoms.  Houses  for  wood  ducks  have  been  built, 
and  wild  rice  and  duck  potatoes  have  been  planted  in  many  lakes. 
Birch  and  cedar  slashings  are  fed  to  deer  at  their  yarding  areas.  Game 
censuses  are  taken,  and  stream  and  lake  surveys  made.  The  water 
table  created  by  beaver  dams  is  to  be  preserved  where  necessary  by 
man-made  structures. 

Superior  National  Forest  is  constantly  gaining  in  popularity  as  a 


48  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

vacationland.  Increasing  emphasis  is  placed  upon  its  recreational  value. 
Within  it  is  a  primitive  area,  a  1,079,430-3^6  tract,  increased  from  the 
786,284  acres  set  aside  in  1925  to  be  preserved  in  its  natural  beauty. 
Logging,  confined  to  the  interior,  is  prohibited  on  lake  shores.  Por- 
tages, rivers,  and  streams  are  left  in  their  original  state. 

Accessible  only  by  canoe,  hydroplane,  or  on  foot,  its  towering  for- 
ests and  interweaving  lakes  and  streams  form  a  sportsman's  paradise. 
Nearly  all  the  forest's  lakes  are  in  the  primitive  section.  These  are  the 
starting  points  of  well-marked  canoe  routes  with  divergent  side  trips. 
Like  the  Indian  and  fur  trader  of  a  bygone  day,  the  modern  canoeist 
paddles  through  long,  narrow  lakes  in  a  land  of  ever-changing  beauty. 
And  like  the  Indian  of  old,  he  packs  his  boat  and  duffle  over  the  por- 
tages. Beaver,  muskrat,  grouse,  porcupine,  bear,  fox,  deer,  and  moose 
may  be  seen,  but  only  occasionally  a  road,  resort,  or  permanent  camp. 
A  two-day  jaunt  or  extended  journey,  a  lazy  fishing  trip  or  back- 
bending  voyage  of  exploration — any  or  all  may  be  arranged. 

There  is  even  a  lure  attached  to  the  names  of  the  lakes.  The  charm 
and  originality  of  the  Indian  nomenclature  has  been  perpetuated  in 
such  lakes  as  Kekekabic,  Kawasachong,  Cherokee,  Gabimichigami, 
Maniwaki,  and  Mukooda.  Because  there  are  countless  "long"  lakes, 
Ely  was  wise  enough  to  discard  the  English  for  the  original  "Shagawa." 
Although  historian  and  romanticist  alike  deplore  the  loss  of  Indian 
names,  it  cannot  be  denied  that  the  ordinary  traveler  often  stammers 
over  those  remaining,  to  the  point  where  he  readily  would  surrender 
their  picturesque  and  musical  qualities  for  forthright  Yankee  words. 


CANOE  TRIPS 

(The  canoe  trips  described  in  the  jottowing  pages  cover  but  a  small  segment  of 
the  Arrowhead  country.) 

In  a  setting  of  unbelievable  beauty  and  tranquillity,  a  gigantic  net- 
work of  interlocking  rivers  and  lakes  spreads  over  the  Arrowhead 
region,  from  Bemidji  in  the  west  to  Pigeon  Point  in  the  east,  from  In- 
ternational Falls  in  the  north  to  Mille  Lacs  in  the  south — an  area  of 
more  than  20,000  square  miles. 

There  are  no  railroads  or  highways  in  the  wilderness  area  of  the 
Minnesota  Arrowhead — it  actually  is  "nature  in  the  raw."  Yet  only  a 
few  minutes  by  air  takes  the  visitor  to  the  starting  points  of  canoe 
routes. 


SUPERIORNATIONALFOREST  49 

INFORMATION  FOR  CANOEISTS 

Seasons:     Lakes  usually  are  ice-free  by  May  10;  freeze-up  begins  as  early  as  October  10, 

and   most  lakes   are  covered   with   ice  by   November   i.     May,   June,   September,  and 

October  are  the  best  months  for  fishing,  and  July  and  August  for  camping. 

Climate:     Generally  cool. 

Transportation:     Starting  points  can  be  reached  by  motor  and  hydroplane. 

Accommodations:     Except  for  resorts  and   lodges  on  privately  owned   land,  there  are 

no  accommodations  in  the  "primitive  area"  other  than  campgrounds  maintained  by  the 

Federal  Forest  Service,  which  afford  tables,  benches,  fireplaces,  and  water. 

Information    Service:     Complete    information    obtainable    from    Minnesota    Arrowhead 

Association,  in  Duluth,  and  from  Federal  and  State  Forest  Service  stations. 

Guide  service:     Experienced  guides  may  be  had  at  the  starting  points. 

Clothing  and  equipment:     Hiking  and  camping  outfit;  be  sure  to  take  a  compass  along* 

(For  further  particulars  contact  Minnesota  Arrowhead  Association,  Duluth.) 

Caution:     Rapids  in  strange  waters  should  not  be  run,  since  they  may  lead  to  falls  or 

impassable  water;  rapid  and  treacherous  currents  are  so  marked  in  text;  note  warnings 

in  regard  to  submerged  rocks. 

Portages:     Portages  are  trails  between  bodies  of  water;   portages  in  Canadian  waters 

usually  are  marked  only  by  a  blaze  on  a  tree,  or  a  Forest  Service  sign  warning  campers 

to  put  out  their  fires. 

Lijtovers:     Liftovers  are  water  portages  not  navigable  when  water  is  low. 

Distances:     In  computing  distances  traveled,  the  canoeist  may  estimate  the  rate  of  two 

men's  paddling  as   three  miles  per  hour.      (With   few  exceptions,  distances  are  given 

in  rods;  one  rod  equals  i6lA  feet;  320  rods  a  mile.) 


CANOE  TRIP  1 

INTERNATIONAL  BOUNDARY  ROUTE 

McFarland  Lake— Mountain  Lake — Rose  Lake— Gunflint  Lake— Saga- 
naga  Lake — Cypress  Lake — Big  Knife  Lake — Prairie  Portage — Upper  Bass- 
wood  Falls — Table  Rock  or  Skull  and  Crossbones  Campgrounds — Crooked 
Lake — Iron  Lake — Shortiss  Island  (Lac  La  Croix) — Coleman  Island  (Lac 
La  Croix) — Group  of  Islands  (on  northwest  end  of  Lac  La  Croix) — South 
end  of  Lac  La  Croix — Loon  Lake — Crane  Lake;  17  days. 
235  miles  of  paddling;  9  of  portaging. 

Excellent  fishing  of  all  kinds. 

Guides  available  at  Grand  Marais,  McFarland  Lake,  Crane  Lake. 

Most   of  the  portages   are   marked   by    signs   showing  names   of  lakes   and   distances. 

Currents  vary,  and  are  rapid  and  treacherous  at  lower  end  of  Basswood  River. 

Following  the  international  boundary,  this  route  is  one  of  exciting 
scenery,  primitive  portages,  and  numerous  rapids,  falls,  and  narrows.  The 
Picture  Rocks  on  Lac  La  Croix  (see  Arrowhead  Tours  3;  4),  of  unknown 
origin,  painted  with  dull  red  ochre,  appear  five  feet  above  the  water's 
edge  and  measure  from  six  to  eight  inches  in  height.  They  represent  a 
moose,  goat,  hands,  bear  paws,  deer,  a  circle,  and  a  man  holding  a  spear. 

Starting  point  MCFARLAND  LAKE  (resort,  undeveloped  camp- 
ground}. 

First  day.  North  across  McFarland  Lake  (see  Canoe  Trip  2)  and 
paddle  into  LITTLE  JOHN  LAKE;  N.  on  Little  John  into  JOHN  LAKE; 


5O  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

N.  on  John  and  portage  80  rods  to  EAST  PIKE  LAKE;  N.  across  East 
Pike  and  portage  one  mile  to  MOOSE  LAKE;  W.  across  Moose  and 
portage  172  rods  to  LILY  PONDS;  W.  across  Lily  Ponds  and  portage 
2.6  rods  to  MOUNTAIN  LAKE  (partially  developed  campground). 

Second  day.  West  across  Mountain  and  portage  85  rods  to  WATAP 
LAKE;  W.  across  Watap  and  paddle  into  ROVE  LAKE  (to  reach  Canoe 
Trip  2,  paddle  S.  via  Daniels  LaJ^e);  W.  on  Rove  and  portage  N.  W.  560 
rods  to  ROSE  LAKE  (partially  developed  campground;  landlocked  salmon; 
to  reach  Canoe  Trip  2,  paddle  S.  via  Stairway  Portage  and  Duncan  Lal^e). 

Third  day.  South  on  Rose  and  portage  one  rod  to  RAT  LAKE;  W.  on 
Rat  and  portage  80  rods  to  SOUTH  LAKE;  N.  W.  on  South  and  portage 
N.  80  rods  to  NORTH  LAKE  (entry  into  Canada);  N.  and  W.  on  North 
and  portage  five  rods  to  LITTLE  GUNFLINT  LAKE;  paddle  W.  on 
Little  Gunflint  into  GUNFLINT  LAKE  (resort,  partially  developed  camp- 
ground; landlocked  salmon;  another  starting  point  at  extreme  west  end, 
see  Arrowhead  Tour  1). 

Fourth  day.  Northwest  on  Gunflint  and  paddle  into  MAGNETIC 
LAKE;  N.  on  Magnetic  and  paddle  into  GRANITE  RIVER  (down- 
stream); portage  six  rods  (rapids)  from  Granite  to  Granite;  N.  on  Granite 
and  portage  80  rods  (rapids)  to  COVE  LAKE;  N.  W.  on  Cove  and 
portage  240  rods  (rapids)  to  Granite  River;  three  short  portages  (rapids) 
from  Granite  to  GNEISS  LAKE;  paddle  W.  and  N.  on  Gneiss  into 
MARABOEUF  LAKE;  N.  across  Maraboeuf  and  portage  12  rods  (rapids) 
into  Granite  River;  2l/2-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Granite  to  SAGANAGA 
LAKE  (resort,  partially  developed  campground;  landlocked  salmon,  wall- 
eyed pi^e;  another  starting  point,  see  Arrowhead  Tour  1;  Canoe  Trip  5; 
entry  into  Canada). 

Fifth  day.  Southwest  on  Saganaga  and  portage  five  rods  to  SWAMP 
LAKE;  93-rod  portage  from  southwest  end  Swamp  to  CYPRESS  LAKE 
(partially  developed  campground). 

Sixth  day.  Portage  three  rods  from  west  end  Cypress  to  LITTLE 
KNIFE  LAKE;  paddle  W.  into  and  to  the  west  end  of  KNIFE  or  BIG 
KNIFE  LAKE  (partially  developed  campground;  wall-eyed  pi\e;  see  Canoe 
Trip  13). 

Seventh  day.  Portage  74  rods  (rapids)  from  Knife  to  KNIFE  RIVER 
(downstream);  four-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Knife  to  SEED  LAKE; 
24-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Seed  to  Knife  River;  i2-rod  portage  (rapids) 
from  Knife  to  CARP  LAKE  (entry  into  Canada);  44-rod  portage  (rapids) 
from  Carp  to  BIRCH  LAKE  (see  Canoe  Trip  73);  W.  across  Birch  and 
into  SUCKER  LAKE;  W.,  skirting  north  end  Sucker  to  PRAIRIE  POR- 
TAGE (partially  developed  campground;  jails). 


SUPERIORNATIONALFOREST  51 

Eighth  day.  Portage  33  rods  (jails)  to  BASSWOOD  LAKE  (land- 
locked  salmon,  wall-eyed  piJ(e,  northern  pi%e;  see  Canoe  Trips  9,  10;  entry 
into  Canada)',  N.  and  W.  across  Basswood  to  UPPER  BASSWOOD 
FALLS  (partially  developed  campground). 

Ninth  day.  Portage  275  rods  (jails)  to  BASSWOOD  RIVER  (down- 
stream)', 24-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Basswood  to  Basswood;  40-rod  por- 
tage (rapids)  from  Basswood  to  Basswood;  i2-rod  portage  (Lower  Bass- 
wood  Falls)  from  Basswood  to  CROOKED  LAKE  (Indian  Picture  Roc\s; 
Forest  Service  cabin;  partially  developed  TABLE  ROCK  or  SKULL  AND 
CROSSBONES  CAMPGROUND;  see  Canoe  Trip  10;  entry  into  Canada). 

Tenth  day.  Paddle  five  or  six  miles  from  east  end  Crooked  to  a  point 
three  miles  E.  of  CURTAIN  FALLS  at  W.  end  of  lake  (partially  developed 
campground). 

Eleventh  day.  Portage  116  rods  (Curtain  Falls)  to  IRON  LAKE  (par- 
tially developed  campgrounds  on  islands;  wall-eyed  piJ^e;  ample  time  to 
enjoy  scenery  of  Rebecca  Falls). 

Twelfth  day.  West  across  Iron  and  short  liftover  (rapids)  to  BOTTLE 
LAKE;  W.  across  Bottle  and  portage  90  rods  to  LAC  LA  CROIX  (Indian 
Picture  Roc%s;  excellent  fishing;  861  islands;  see  Canoe  Trips  n,  12,  14; 
entry  into  Canada)\  paddle  N.  on  Lac  La  Croix  to  SHORTISS  ISLAND 
(partially  developed  campground  northwest  end  of  island). 

Thirteenth  day.  Paddle  N.  around  east  side  Shortiss  to  north  end 
COLEMAN  ISLAND  (partially  developed  campgrounds  on  several  islands 
in  vicinity). 

Fourteenth  day.  Paddle  due  west  of  Coleman  12  miles  to  group  of 
islands  at  northwest  corner  Lac  La  Croix  (partially  developed  campgrounds 
on  some  islands). 

Fifteenth  day.  South  on  Lac  La  Croix  to  30-rod  portage  to  LOON 
LAKE  (partially  developed  campground). 

Sixteenth  day.  West  across  Loon  to  50-rod  portage  (canoes  and  lug- 
gage conveyed  on  small-railed,  narrow-gauge  flat  car)  around  LOON 
DAM  FALLS  to  LOON  RIVER;  N.  W.  (downstream)  on  Loon  to  LIT- 
TLE VERMILION  LAKE;  N.  across  Little  Vermilion  and  through 
LITTLE  VERMILION  NARROWS  (partially  developed  campground). 

Seventeenth  day.  Paddle  from  Little  Vermilion  Narrows  into  SAND 
POINT  LAKE;  N.  and  S.  across  Sand  Point  and  S.  through  KING  WIL- 
LIAM'S NARROWS  into  CRANE  LAKE;  paddle  across  south  shore  of 
Crane  (resorts,  cabins;  boating,  swimming;  fishing;  outfitting;  motor  trans- 
portation; see  Canoe  Trip  75).  Retrace  to  starting  point. 


52  THE     MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

CANOE  TRIP  2 

East  Bearskin  Lake — Clearwater  Lake — McFarland  Lake — East  Bearskin 

Lake;  3  days. 

38  miles  of  paddling;  5  of  portaging. 

Average  fishing  for  pike  and  trout. 

Guides  available  at  Grand  Marais,  East  Bearskin  Lake. 

Portages  are  marked  by  signs  showing  names  of  lakes  and  portage  distances. 

This  route  passes  through  excellent  scenery  with  rugged  shores  and  high  cliffs. 

Starting  point  EAST  BEARSKIN  LAKE  (lodges,  housekeeping  cabins, 
campground,  summer  homesites;  boating,  fishing;  outfitting). 

First  day.  From  west  end  East  Bearskin  Lake  portage  104  rods  to 
SEED  LAKE;  N.  across  middle  of  Seed  and  portage  112  rods  to  FLOUR 
LAKE;  across  west  end  Flour  and  portage  155  rods  to  west  arm  of  HUN- 
GRY JACK  LAKE;  N.  on  Hungry  Jack  to  eight-rod  portage  to  WEST 
BEARSKIN  LAKE  (to  reach  Canoe  Trip  i,  paddle  N.  via  either  Daniels 
Laf^e,  or  Duncan  Lal^e  and  Stairway  Portage)\  from  West  Bearskin  por- 
tage one  mile  (motor  transportation)  to  CLEARWATER  LAKE  (lodges, 
meals;  swimming,  boating;  outfitting;  trout  fishing). 

Second  day.  Paddle  to  east  end  Clearwater  and  portage  214  rods  to 
WEST  PIKE  LAKE;  from  east  end  West  Pike  portage  122  rods  to  EAST 
PIKE  LAKE;  from  southwest  end  East  Pike  portage  160  rods  to  McFAR- 
LAND  LAKE  (unimproved  campground;  see  Arrowhead  Tour  1). 

Third  day.  Cross  west  end  McFarland;  if  water  is  low,  portage  five 
rods  S.  to  PINE  LAKE  (when  water  is  high,  channel  is  passable;  sub- 
merged roc^s);  from  southwest  end  Pine  portage  240  rods  to  CANOE 
LAKE;  from  southwest  end  Canoe  portage  22  rods  to  ALDER  LAKE 
(submerged  roc^s)',  portage  from  northwest  end  Alder  48  rods  to  East 
Bearskin;  paddle  W.  to  starting  point. 

CANOE  TRIP  3 

Poplar  Lake — Winchell  Lake — Brule  Lake — Cherokee  Lake — Long  Island 
Lake — Henson  Lake — Poplar  Lake;  6  days. 
47  miles  of  paddling;  5  of  portaging. 

Good  fishing  for  pike  and  trout. 

Guides  available  at  Grand  Marais,  Poplar  Lake. 

Portages  are  marked  by  signs  showing  names  of  lakes  and  portage  distances. 

Current  in  Long  Island  River  is  negligible. 

This  route  passes  through  several  burned  and  cut-over  areas,  but  the  lakes  are  beautiful. 

Starting  point  POPLAR  LAKE  (lodges;  boating,  swimming;  outfit- 
ting). 


SUPERIORNATIONALFOREST  53 

First  day.  South  across  Poplar  Lake  to  5o-rod  portage  to  LIZZ  LAKE; 
S.  on  Lizz  to  75-rod  portage  to  CARIBOU  LAKE  and  through  narrows 
(submerged  roc\s)\  S.  from  narrows  to  23-rod  portage  to  HORSESHOE 
LAKE  (submerged  roc\s)\  p2-rod  portage  from  southwest  end  Horseshoe 
to  GASKIN  LAKE;  51 -rod  portage  from  southwest  end  Gaskin  to 
WINCHELL  LAKE  (undeveloped  campground;  trout  fishing). 

Second  day.  Portage  15  rods  from  southwest  end  Winchell  to  TRAP 
LAKE;  325-rod  portage  from  south  end  Trap  to  MULLIGAN  LAKE; 
32-rod  portage  from  Mulligan  to  LILY  LAKE;  6o-rod  portage  from  south 
end  Lily  to  BRULE  LAKE  (undeveloped  campground;  landlocked 
salmon). 

Third  day.  Paddle  W.  across  Brule  and  portage  six  rods  to  SOUTH 
TEMPERANCE  LAKE;  52-rod  portage  from  north  end  South  Temper- 
ance to  NORTH  TEMPERANCE  LAKE;  103-rod  portage  N.  W.  from 
North  Temperance  to  SITKA  LAKE;  i3o-rod  portage  N.  W.  from  Sitka 
to  CHEROKEE  LAKE  (undeveloped  campground). 

Fourth  day.  Portage  14  rods  from  north  end  Cherokee  to  GORDON 
LAKE;  25-rod  portage  from  north  end  Gordon  to  LONG  ISLAND 
RIVER;  paddle  N.  on  Long  Island  River  (downstream),  portaging  twice 
(rapids')  to  LONG  ISLAND  LAKE  (undeveloped  campground). 

Fifth  day.  Portage  17  rods  from  east  end  Long  Island  to  MUSKEG 
LAKE;  cross  Muskeg  and  portage  187  rods  to  KISKADINNA  LAKE; 
37-rod  portage  from  east  end  Kiskadinna  to  ONEGA  LAKE;  32-rod  por- 
tage from  east  end  Onega  to  HENSON  LAKE  (undeveloped  camp- 
ground). 

Sixth  day.  Portage  40  rods  from  east  end  Henson  to  PILLSBERY 
LAKE;  short  portage  E.  from  Pillsbery  to  SMALL  LAKE;  96-rod  portage 
N.  from  Small  Lake  to  MEADS  LAKE;  3oo-rod  portage  from  east  end 
Meads  to  Poplar  Lake;  paddle  N.  E.  to  starting  point. 


CANOE  TRIP  4 

Round  Lake  or  Cross  River — Tuscarora  Lake — Little  Saganaga  Lake — 
Frazer  Lake — Kekekabic  Lake — Sea  Gull  Lake;  5  days. 
56  miles  of  paddling;  6  of  portaging. 

Fair  fishing   for   landlocked   salmon,    speckled   trout,  wall-eyed  pike,   and   black   bass. 

Guides  available  at  Grand  Marais,  Round  Lake  or  Cross  River,  Sea  Gull  Lake. 

Portages  are  unmarked  except  between  starting  point  and  little  Saganaga  Lake  and  from 

Ogishkemuncie  to  Sea  Gull  Lake,  where  names  and  distances  are  given. 

Current  in  rivers  is  sluggish. 

This  route  passes  through  a  very  wild  and  scenic  region. 

Starting  point  ROUND  LAKE  or  CROSS  RIVER  (lodges,  housefyep- 
ing  cabins;  boating ',  swimming,  fishing;  outfitting). 


54  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

First  day.  Northeast  (upstream)  on  Cross  River  and  portage  96  rods 
(rapids)  from  Cross  to  Cross;  follow  Cross  through  several  small  PONDS 
and  portage  30  rods  to  HAM  LAKE;  S.  E.  on  Ham  and  portage  30  rods  to 
Cross  River;  liftover  (beaver  dam)  from  Cross  to  Cross;  paddle  S.  on  Cross 
and  take  small  STREAM  to  the  R.;  upstream  from  point  shown  on  map 
as  Cross  Bay  and  portage  60  rods  (rapids)  to  SNIP  LAKE;  S.  on  Snip  and 
portage  60  rods  to  COPPER  LAKE;  i6o-rod  portage  from  extreme  west 
end  Copper  to  TUSCARORA  LAKE  (undeveloped  campground;  land- 
locked  salmon). 

Second  day.  From  west  end  Tuscarora  portage  twice  and  cross  two 
small  ponds  to  OWL  LAKE;  short  portage  from  west  end  Owl  to 
CROOKED  LAKE;  S.  W.  across  Crooked  and  portage  80  rods  to  MORA 
LAKE;  W.  across  Mora  and  portage  30  rods  to  LITTLE  SAGANAGA 
LAKE  (undeveloped  campground;  wall-eyed  pi\e;  numerous  islands  de- 
lightful for  camping;  see  Branch  Route  from  Little  Saganaga  La%e  to 
Ogishl^emuncie  LaJ^e). 

Third  day.  Portage  18  rods  from  southwest  end  Little  Saganaga  to 
BEAVER  POND;  S.  on  Beaver  Pond  and  portage  nine  rods  to  ELTON 
LAKE;  one-rod  liftover  (rapids)  from  south  end  Elton  to  BEAR  LAKE 
(mountain  trout)]  yo-rod  portage  from  west  end  Bear  to  HOE  LAKE;  W. 
across  Hoe  and  portage  60  rods  to  SMALL  LAKE;  W.  across  Small  Lake 
and  portage  40  rods  to  V  LAKE;  i52-rod  portage  from  west  end  V  to 
LEDGE  LAKE;  W.  across  Ledge  and  portage  202  rods  to  CAP  LAKE; 
72-rod  portage  from  west  end  Cap  to  ROE  LAKE;  W.  across  Roe  and 
portage  33  rods  to  LITTLE  SAGUS  LAKE;  65-rod  portage  from  west  end 
Little  Sagus  to  FRAZER  LAKE  (undeveloped  campground;  wall-eyed 


Fourth  day.  Portage  16  rods  from  north  end  Frazer  to  GERUND 
LAKE;  3o-rod  portage  from  north  end  Gerund  to  AHMAKOSE  LAKE; 
97-rod  portage  from  north  end  Ahmakose  to  WISINI  LAKE;  ten-rod  por- 
tage from  north  end  Wisini  to  STRUP  LAKE  (blac\  bass)\  86-rod  portage 
from  north  end  Strup  to  KEKEKABIC  LAKE;  cross  to  east  shore  Keke- 
kabic  (undeveloped  campground;  landlocked  salmon;  to  reach  Canoe 
Trip  i,  see  CANOE  TRIP  13). 

Fifth  day.  Northeast  on  Kekekabic  and  make  short  portage  to  EDDY 
LAKE  (to  reach  Canoe  Trip  I,  portage  37  rods  from  northwest  end  Eddy 
to  Knife  Laf^e)\  E.  on  Eddy  and  portage  32  rods  to  a  POND;  E.  across 
Pond  and  portage  10  rods  to  second  POND;  5o-rod  portage  from  east  end 
second  Pond  to  OGISHKEMUNCIE  LAKE  (see  Branch  Route  from  tittle 
Saganaga  LaJ^e  to  Ogish^emuncie  Lafe);  N.  E.  across  Ogishkemuncie  and 
portage  50  rods  to  a  POND;  N.  E.  across  Pond  and  portage  50  rods  to 
JASPER  LAKE;  37-rod  portage  from  northeast  end  Jasper  to  ALPINE 
LAKE;  6o-rod  portage  from  east  end  Alpine  to  ROG  LAKE;  E.  across 
Rog  and  portage  17  rods  to  SEA  GULL  LAKE  (wall-eyed  pi\e,  northern 


SUPERIORNATIONALFOREST  55 

pi\e)\  N.  E.  across  Sea  Gull  (resorts,  cabins;  outfitting;  boating,  fishing, 
swimming;  motor  transportation).  Retrace  to  starting  point  (five  days); 
or  to  Ogishkemuncie  Lake,  thence  to  starting  point  (three  days). 


BRANCH  ROUTE 

From  Little  Saganaga  Lake  to  Ogishkemuncie  Lake:  via  Little  Saganaga 
Lake;  one  day;  5.5  miles  of  paddling;  0.5  of  portaging. 

Good  landlocked  salmon  fishing. 

Paddle  to  north  end  Little  Saganaga  Lake;  short  portage  from  Little 
Saganaga  into  RATTLE  LAKE;  N.  across  Rattle  and  portage  40  rods  into 
GABIMICHIGAMI  LAKE  (landlocked  salmon)-,  N.  W.  across  Gabi- 
michigami  and  portage  30  rods  into  AGAMOK  LAKE;  paddle  W.  across 
Agamok  and  portage  60  rods  to  a  POND;  N.  W.  across  Pond  and  portage 
50  rods  into  Ogishkemuncie  Lake.  Retrace  to  Little  Saganaga  Lake  (one 
day). 

CANOE  TRIP  5 

Sea  Gull  Lake— Red  Rock  Lake— Sea  Gull  Lake;  2  days. 
23  miles  of  paddling;  0.5  of  portaging. 

Good  fishing  for  pike  and  lake  trout. 

Guides  available  at  Sea  Gull  Lake. 

Portages  are  marked  by  signs  showing  names  of  lakes  and  portage  distances. 

Current  in  Sea  Gull  River  is  sluggish. 

This  is  one  of  the  finest  scenic  routes,  passing   many  beautiful   islands  and   skirting 

rugged  shores. 

Starting  point  SEA  GULL  LAKE  (lodges,  housekeeping  cabins,  meals; 
boating,  swimming,  fishing;  outfitting). 

First  day.  Southwest  across  Sea  Gull  Lake  and  portage  17  rods  to 
ROG  LAKE;  6o-rod  portage  from  west  end  Rog  to  ALPINE  LAKE;  N. 
across  Alpine  and  portage  51  rods  to  RED  ROCK  LAKE  (undeveloped 
campground). 

Second  day.  Portage  eight  rods  from  north  end  Red  Rock  to  BIG 
SAGANAGA  LAKE  (see  Canoe  Trip  /);  paddle  along  south  shore  Big 
Saganaga  to  extreme  southeast  end  and  S.  into  SEA  GULL  RIVER;  S. 
(upstream)  on  Sea  Gull,  portaging  twice  (rapids)  to  Sea  Gull  Lake;  E.  to 
starting  point. 

CANOE  TRIP  6 

Sawbill  Lake — Polly  Lake — Little  Saganaga  Lake — Snip  Lake — Cherokee 

Lake — Sawbill  Lake;  5  days. 

62  miles  of  paddling;  5  of  portaging. 


56  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

Good  fishing  for  wall-eyed  and  northern  pike. 

Guides  available  at  Sawbill  Lake. 

Portages  are  marked  by  signs  showing  names  of  lakes  and  portage  distances. 

River  currents  are  sluggish,  except  in  Kawishiwi  River. 

This  route  offers  beautiful  scenery,  with  many  beaver  dams. 

Starting  point  SAWBILL  LAKE  (lodge,  campground;  excellent  fishing 
for  wall-eyed  and  northern  pife;  boating,  swimming;  outfitting). 

First  day.  West  across  Sawbill  Lake  to  27-rod  portage  to  ALDON 
LAKE;  from  southwest  end  Aldon  portage  144  rods  to  BETH  LAKE; 
from  west  end  Beth  portage  232  rods  to  GRACE  LAKE;  from  south  arm 
Grace  W.  to  i4-rod  portage  to  GRACE  RIVER  (downstream,  jagged  sub- 
merged roc{s);  two  short  portages  (rapids)  from  Grace  to  east  side 
PHOEBE  LAKE;  W.  across  upper  half  Phoebe  to  PHOEBE  RIVER 
(downstream);  i2o-rod  portage  (rapids)  to  HAZEL  LAKE;  N,  W.  across 
Hazel  to  5i-rod  portage  (falls)  to  Phoebe  River  (submerged  rocfe);  three 
portages  (rapids)  on  Phoebe  to  io8-rod  portage  to  POLLY  LAKE  (un- 
developed campground). 

Second  day.  Northwest  across  Polly  and  portage  17  rods  to  KA- 
WISHIWI RIVER  (downstream)',  5o-rod  portage  (rapids)  and  then  157- 
rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Kawishiwi  to  KOMA  LAKE;  N.  across  Koma 
to  2o-rod  portage  (rapids)  to  Kawishiwi  River;  portage  40  rods  from 
Kawishiwi  to  KAVENDEBA  LAKE;  portage  between  and  cross  two 
PONDS  to  26-rod  portage  from  Kavendeba  to  PAN  LAKE;  N.  across 
Pan  portaging  between  two  PONDS  to  43-rod  portage  to  south  shore 
BEAR  LAKE  (mountain  trout):,  N.  across  Bear  to  one-rod  portage  to 
ELTON  LAKE;  N.  to  nine-rod  portage  from  Elton  to  BEAVER  POND; 
across  Beaver  Pond  to  i8-rod  portage  to  LITTLE  SAGANAGA  LAKE 
(undeveloped  campgrounds;  wall-eyed  piJ^e,  laJ^e  trout;  see  Alternate 
Return  from  Little  Saganaga  La\e  to  Sawbill  La\e). 

Third  day.  Paddle  to  southeast  end  Little  Saganaga  and  portage  30 
rods  to  MORA  LAKE;  E.  then  curve  N.  W.  in  Mora  to  8o-rod  portage 
to  CROOKED  LAKE;  E.  by  N.  E.  across  widest  part  of  Crooked  and 
short  portage  to  OWL  LAKE;  from  Owl  cross  two  small  PONDS  and 
short  portage  to  TUSCARORA  LAKE;  E.  across  Tuscarora  to  i6o-rod 
portage  to  COPPER  LAKE;  N.  E.  on  Copper  and  portage  60  rods  to 
SNIP  LAKE  (undeveloped  campground). 

Fourth  day.  Cross  length  of  Snip  E.  and  portage  180  rods  to  CROSS 
BAY  LAKE;  S.  on  Cross  Bay  and  portage  50  rods  to  RIB  LAKE;  S.  on 
Rib  and  portage  30  rods  to  KARL  LAKE  that  narrows  into  LONG 
ISLAND  LAKE;  S.  W.  on  Long  Island  into  LONG  ISLAND  RIVER 
(upstream)]  S.  on  Long  Island,  making  two  short  portages  (rapids)  to 
25-rod  portage  to  GORDON  LAKE;  i4-rod  portage  S.  from  Gordon  to 
CHEROKEE  LAKE  (undeveloped  campground;  landlocked  salmon). 


SUPERIORNATIONALFOREST  57 

Fijth  day.  Across  to  southwest  end  Cherokee  and  W.  into  CHER- 
OKEE RIVER  (upstream)  for  short  distance;  from  south  bank  Cherokee 
portage  192  rods  to  SKOOP  LAKE;  S.  across  Skoop  and  i2-rod  portage 
to  ADA  LAKE;  W.  on  Ada  and  portage  75  rods  to  ADA.  CREEK 
(downstream);  portage  75  rods  from  Ada  to  north  end  Sawbill  Lake,  and 
paddle  S.  to  starting  point. 


ALTERNATE  RETURN 

From  Little  Saganaga  Lake  to  Sawbill  Lake:  via  "Little  Sag  Route"; 
2  days;  15  miles  of  paddling;  4  of  portaging. 

Rigorous  traveling  over  Great  Laurentian  Highland  Divide;  fair  pike  fishing;  docks  at 
some  portages. 

First  day.  Portage  30  rods  from  southeast  end  little  Saganaga  Lake  to 
MORA  LAKE;  from  south  end  Mora  portage  96  rods  to  HUB  RIVER; 
S.  (upstream)  on  Hub  and  portage  13  rods  (rapids)  from  Hub  to  Hub; 
3oi-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Hub  to  HUB  LAKE;  from  south  end  Hub 
portage  12  rods  to  MESABA  LAKE  (unimproved  campground). 

Second  day.  Southeast  across  Mesaba  and  portage  109  rods  to  HUG 
LAKE;  S.  across  Hug  and  portage  two  rods  to  DUCK  LAKE;  portage 
80  rods  from  south  end  Duck  to  ZENITH  LAKE;  S.  W.  across  Zenith 
and  portage  270  rods  to  KELSO  RIVER  (downstream);  84-rod  portage 
(rapids)  from  Kelso  to  Kelso;  liftover  (beaver  dam,  rapids)  from  Kelso 
to  Kelso;  S.  from  Kelso  into  KELSO  LAKE;  S.  and  E.  on  Kelso  into 
Kelso  River;  portage  17  rods  from  Kelso  to  Sawbill  Lake;  S.  E.  on  Sawbill 
to  starting  point. 


CANOE  TRIP  7 

Lake  One — Lake  Three — Hudson  Lake — North  Kawishiwi  River — Polly 
Lake — Parent   Lake — Isabella   Lake — Isabella   River — Bald   Eagle   Lake — 
South  Kawishiwi  River — Lake  One;  n  days. 
83  miles  of  paddling;  9  of  portaging. 

Good  fishing  for  wall-eyed  and  northern  pike. 

Guides  available  at  Ely,  Winton,  Lake  One,  or  Fernberg  Landing. 

Portages  are  marked  by  signs  showing  names  of  lakes  and  portage  distances. 

Currents  vary. 

This  route  takes  the  canoeist  through  wild  country,  with  beautiful  scenery  and  lakes 

dotted  with  numerous  islands. 

Starting  point  LAKE  ONE  or  FERNBERG  LANDING  (resort,  house- 
peeping  cabins;  forest  lookout  station;  developed  campground;  boating, 
swimming;  outfitting). 


58  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

First  day.  Southeast  across  Lake  One;  portaging  36  rods  to  a  POND; 
from  Pond  portage  89  rods  to  LAKE  TWO;  E.  and  S.  across  Two  through 
narrows  into  LAKE  THREE  (developed  campground). 

Second  day.  Paddle  E.  across  Three  through  narrows  into  LAKE 
FOUR;  paddle  E.  and  N.  across  Four  into  NORTH  KAWISHIWI  RIVER 
(upstream)',  portage  17  rods  (rapids)  from  North  Kawishiwi  to  North  Ka- 
wishiwi;  portage  23  rods  (rapids)  from  North  Kawishiwi  to  North  Ka- 
wishiwi; portage  five  rods  (rapids)  from  North  Kawishiwi  to  HUDSON 
LAKE  (dev eloped  campground). 

Third  day.  From  east  end  Hudson  portage  90  rods  to  INSULA 
LAKE;  paddle  to  east  end  Insula  (developed  campground). 

Fourth  day.  Paddle  from  Insula  into  North  Kawishiwi  River;  portage 
17  rods  (rapids)  from  North  Kawishiwi  to  North  Kawishiwi;  paddle 
from  North  Kawishiwi  into  and  skirt  south  end  LAKE  ALICE,  then  into 
North  Kawishiwi  River;  i7-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  North  Kawishiwi  to 
North  Kawishiwi;  8i-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  North  Kawishiwi  to  North 
Kawishiwi;  i9-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  North  Kawishiwi  to  North 
Kawishiwi  (partially  developed  campground). 

Fifth  day.  Portage  71  rods  (rapids)  from  North  Kawishiwi  to  MUL- 
BERG  LAKE;  S.  E.  across  Mulberg  and  into  North  Kawishiwi  River; 
24-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  North  Kawishiwi  to  KOMA  LAKE;  S.  across 
Koma  and  portage  157  rods  (rapids)  into  North  Kawishiwi  River;  5o-rod 
portage  (rapids)  from  North  Kawishiwi  to  North  Kawishiwi;  17-rod  por- 
tage (rapids)  from  North  Kawishiwi  to  POLLY  LAKE  (partially  devel- 
oped campground). 

Sixth  day.  South  across  Polly  and  portage  82  rods  to  TOWNLINE 
LAKE;  across  Townline  and  portage  179  rods  to  KAWASACHONG;  S. 
across  Kawasachong  and  liftover  (beaver  dam)  into  North  Kawishiwi 
River;  liftover  (beaver  dam)  from  North  Kawishiwi  to  North  Kawishiwi; 
paddle  from  North  Kawishiwi  into  SQUARE  LAKE;  liftover  (rapids) 
from  Square  to  North  Kawishiwi  River;  paddle  from  North  Kawishiwi 
into  KAWISHIWI  LAKE;  portage  582  rods  from  Kawishiwi  to  PARENT 
LAKE  (partially  developed  campground). 

Seventh  day.  West  across  Parent  and  portage  57  rods  (rapids)  to 
PARENT  RIVER  (downstream);  24-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Parent 
to  Parent;  32-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Parent  to  Parent;  39-rod  portage 
(rapids)  from  Parent  to  Parent;  22-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Parent  to 
Parent;  39-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Parent  to  Parent;  26-rod  portage 
(rapids)  from  Parent  to  Parent;  19-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Parent  to 
Parent;  4o-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Parent  to  Parent;  22-rod  portage 
(rapids)  from  Parent  to  Parent;  15-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Parent  to 
Parent;  26  rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Parent  to  Parent;  i5-rod  portage  from 


(Above)  WINTER  TRAIL  IN 
THE  ARROWHEAD.  All  main 
roads  of  the  region  are  kept 
open  the  year  around. 


(Right)  WHERE  THE  WA- 
TERS DIVIDE.  Marker  on  the 
Great  Laurentian  Highland 
Divide. 


ihc  GREAT 
LAURENTIAN 

HIGHLAND  PIVIPI 


m 


Photograph  by  courtesy  of  the  Civic  and  Commerce  Association,  Bcmidji. 

(Above)     INDIANS  AT  RED  LAKE.     Parking  the  amazingly  dependable 
water  flivver  used  by  the  natives  of  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead. 


(Below)  LAKE  TROUT,  BASSWOOD  LAKE.  Fishing  in  the  Arrowhead  is 
unsurpassed,  and  the  vastness  of  the  water  area,  coupled  with  intensive 
fish  propagation,  insures  its  permanence. 

Photograph  by  courtesy  of  the  Minnesota  Tourist  Bureau. 


SUPERIOR    NATIONAL    FOREST  59 

Parent  to  Parent;  27-rod  portage  from  Parent  to  ISABELLA  LAKE  (par-* 
tially  developed  campground). 

'Eighth  day.  West  across  Isabella  and  portage  22  rods  (rapids)  to 
ISABELLA  RIVER  (downstream);  i2-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Isabella 
to  Isabella;  io6-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Isabella  to  Isabella;  27-rod  por- 
tage (rapids)  from  Isabella  to  Isabella;  i5-rod  portage  (rapids)  from 
Isabella  to  Isabella  (partially  developed  campground). 

Ninth  day.  Portage  40  rods  (rapids)  from  Isabella  to  Isabella  (Forest 
Service  cabin);  portage  36  rods  (rapids)  from  Isabella  to  Isabella;  i6-rod 
portage  (rapids)  from  Isabella  to  Isabella;  156-rod  portage  (rapids)  from 
Isabella  to  Isabella  (Forest  Service  cabin);  158-rod  portage  (rapids)  from 
Isabella  to  BALD  EAGLE  LAKE  (partially  developed  campground). 

Tenth  day.  Paddle  N.  W.  across  Bald  Eagle  into  GABBRO  LAKE  (in 
low  water,  it  is  necessary  to  make  a  short  portage  between  these  two  lakes 
because  of  rapids);  i48-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  northwest  end  Gabbro 
to  SOUTH  KAWISHIWI  RIVER  (downstream);  paddle  on  South  Ka- 
wishiwi  for  one  mile  and  turn  N.  E.  (upstream),  portaging  27  rods  (rapids) 
from  South  Kawishiwi  to  South  Kawishiwi  (partially  developed  comp- 
ground). 

Eleventh  day.  Portage  22  rods  (rapids)  from  South  Kawishiwi  to  South 
Kawishiwi;  seven-rod  portage  from  South  Kawishiwi  to  South  Kawishiwi; 
paddle  from  South  Kawishiwi  into  NORTH  KAWISHIWI  RIVER  (up- 
stream);  eight-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  North  Kawishiwi  to  North  Ka- 
wishiwi; 24-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  North  Kawishiwi  to  North 
Kawishiwi;  i6-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  North  Kawishiwi  to  North  Ka- 
wishiwi; i2-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  North  Kawishiwi  to  LAKE  ONE; 
paddle  N.  E.  to  starting  point. 


CANOE  TRIP  8 

White  Iron  Lake,  or  Silver  Rapids — Clear  Lake — Birch  Lake — White  Iron 

Lake,  or  Silver  Rapids;  3  days. 

30  miles  of  paddling;  one  of  portaging. 

Good  fishing  for  wall-eyed  pike. 

Guides  available  at  Ely,  White  Iron  Lake,  or  Silver  Rapids. 

Portages  are  marked  by  signs  showing  names  of  lakes  and  portage  distances. 

Current  in  North  and  South  Kawishiwi  rivers  is  sluggish;  rapids  are  fast. 

This  route  has  excellent  scenery  along  the  rivers. 

Starting  point  WHITE  IRON  LAKE,  or  SILVER  RAPIDS   (lodges* 
meals,  housekeeping  cabins;  boating,  swimming,  fishing;  outfitting). 

First  day.    East  from  White  Iron  Lake,  or  Silver  Rapids,  on  NORTH 
KAWISHIWI  RIVER  (upstream)  into  FARM  LAKE;  E.  across  Farm  into 


60  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

North  Kawishiwi  River   (upstream)-,    132-rod  portage  from   south  bank 
North  Kawishiwi  to  CLEAR  LAKE  (undeveloped  campground). 

Second  day.  South  across  Clear  to  224-rod  portage  to  SOUTH  KA- 
WISHIWI RIVER;  S.  and  W.  (downstream)  on  South  Kawishiwi  to  sev- 
eral portages  (swijt  rapids)  and  into  BIRCH  LAKE  (excellent  developed 
campground;  community  building;  ranger  station  at  east  end  Birch  Lafe). 

Third  day.  Paddle  W.  across  Birch  and  turn  N.  to  portage  into 
WHITE  IRON  RIVER;  downstream,  portaging  several  times  (swijt  rap- 
ids} on  White  Iron  to  WHITE  IRON  LAKE;  paddle  N.  to  starting 
point. 

CANOE  TRIP  9 

Fall  Lake,  or  Winton-Basswood  Lake;  one  day. 
13  miles  of  paddling;  4  of  portaging. 

Good  fishing  for  pike. 

Guides  available  at  Ely,  Winton,  Fall  Lake. 

There  are  no  public  portage  signs. 

Either  of  these  routes  is  a  quick  entry  to  international  waters. 

Starting  point  FALL  LAKE  (lodge,  meals,  housekeeping  cabins;  boat- 
ing, swimming,  fishing;  outfitting). 

Paddle  to  northeast  end  Fall  Lake;  four-mile  portage  from  Fall  (motor 
transportation)  to  BASS  WOOD  LAKE.  Retrace  to  starting  point  (one 
day),  or  paddle  N.  E.  five  miles  (sec  Canoe  Trip  i). 


ALTERNATE  ROUTE 

From  Fall  Lake  to  Basswood  Lake:  via  Pipestone  Bay;  one  day. 
15  miles  of  paddling;  0.25  of  portaging. 

Interesting  falls,  rapids;  topography  rugged;  not  much  timber. 

Paddle  to  northwest  arm  Fall  Lake  and  portage  ten  rods  (jails)  to 
NEWTON  LAKE;  N.  on  Newton  and  portage  61  rods  (falls)  to  PIPE- 
STONE  BAY,  a  part  of  Basswood  Lake  (see  Canoe  Trip  /).  Retrace  to 
starting  point  (one  day). 

CANOE  TRIP  10 

Burntside  Lake — Fenske  Lake — Grassy  Lake — Murphy  Lake;  3  days. 
20  miles  of  paddling;  4.5  of  portaging. 

Excellent  fishing  for  bass  and  wall-eyed  pike. 

Guides  available  at  Ely,  Burntside  Lake. 

Portages  are  marked  by  signs  showing  names  of  lakes  and  portage  distances. 


SUPERIOR    NATIONAL    FOREST  6 1 

Ely-Buyck  Trail  offers  other  starting  points  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  £)• 

Current  in  rivers  is  negligible. 

This  is  an  interesting  route  to  international  waters. 

Starting  point  BURNTSIDE  LAKE  (lodges,  housekeeping  cabins;  fish- 
ing, swimming;  outfitting). 

First  day.  North  from  Burntside  Lake  on  DEAD  RIVER  (upstream) 
and  along  eastern  tip  WEST  TWIN  LAKE  into  EAST  TWIN  LAKE; 
i3-rod  portage  from  north  end  East  Twin  to  EVERETT  LAKE;  N.  across 
west  end  Everett  and  portage  120  rods,  crossing  ELY-BUYCK  TRAIL,  to 
FENSKE  LAKE  (well-developed  camp  and  picnic  grounds;  bass  fishing). 

Second  day.  East  across  Fenske  and  portage  ten  rods  to  LITTLE 
SLETTEN  LAKE  (bass);  N.  across  Little  Sletten  and  portage  70  rods  to 
BIG  SLETTEN  LAKE  (bass);  N.  across  Big  Sletten  and  portage  122  rods 
to  T  LAKE  (bass);  N.  across  T  and  portage  45  rods  to  GRASSY  LAKE 
(undeveloped  campground;  bass  fishing). 

Third  day.  East  across  Grassy  into  RANGE  RIVER  (downstream); 
26-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Range  to  Range;  i4i-rod  portage  (rapids) 
from  Range  to  Range,  and  into  RANGE  LAKE;  i6o-rod  portage  from 
north  end  Range  to  SANDPIT  LAKE;  N.  across  Sandpit  to  MURPHY 
LAKE  (undeveloped  campground;  see  Branch  Route).  Retrace  to  starting 
point  (three  days),  or  paddle  E.  across  Murphy  and  portage  1.25  miles  to 
JACKFISH  BAY  of  BASS  WOOD  LAKE  (see  Canoe  Trip  /),  or  follow 
either  of  two  branch  routes. 


BRANCH  ROUTE  NO.  1 

From  Murphy  Lake  to  Crooked  Lake:  via  Gun  Lake;  2  days;  17  miles 
of  paddling;  1.25  of  portaging. 

Partly  logged-over  area  but  beautiful  scenery;  excellent  bass  and  pike  fishing. 

First  day.  Portage  80  rods  from  north  end  Murphy  Lake  into  HORSE 
LAKE;  skirt  southwest  end  Horse  and  portage  40  rods  into  a  small  POND; 
then  15  rods  from  small  Pond  to  FOURTOWN  LAKE;  from  west  end 
Fourtown  portage  50  rods  to  BOOT  LAKE;  W.  and  N.  on  Boot  and  por- 
tage 56  rods  to  FAIRY  LAKE;  7o-rod  portage  from  north  end  Fairy  into 
GUN  LAKE  (undeveloped  campground). 

Second  day.  Portage  300  rods  from  northeast  end  Gun  to  WAGOSH 
LAKE  (bass);  33-rod  portage  from  north  end  Wagosh  to  NIKI  LAKE 
(bass);  from  Niki  paddle  into  CHIPPEWA  RIVER  (downstream);  after 
one  short  portage  (rapids)  on  Chippewa  paddle  to  CHIPPEWA  LAKE; 
from  west  end  Chippewa  paddle  into  TURTLE  RIVER  (downstream); 
after  two  or  three  short  liftovers  (beaver  dam)  follow  Turtle  River  into 


62  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

PAITOOSE  LAKE;  N.  on  Pappoose  into  Turtle  River  (downstream)  and 
portage  80  rods  from  Turtle  to  FRIDAY  BAY  of  CROOKED  LAKE  (un- 
developed campground).  Retrace  to  Murphy  Lake  (two  days)  or  continue 
as  in  Canoe  Trip  i. 

BRANCH  ROUTE  NO.  2 

From  Murphy  Lake  to  Crooked  Lake:  via  Horse  River;  one  day;  6  miles 
of  paddling;  one  of  portaging. 

Submerged  rocks  in  river;  good  wall-eyed  pike  fishing;  game  plentiful. 

First  day.  Portage  80  rods  from  north  end  Murphy  Lake  into  HORSE 
LAKE  (wall-eyed  pi\e)\  paddle  from  east  side  Horse  into  HORSE  RIVER 
(downstream)',  42-050!  portage  (rapids)  from  Horse  to  Horse;  5i-rod  por- 
tage (rapids)  from  Horse  to  Horse;  234-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Horse 
to  Horse;  paddle  from  Horse  into  BASSWOOD  RIVER  (downstream), 
then  into  CROOKED  LAKE  (undeveloped  campground).  Retrace  to 
Murphy  Lake  (one  day)  or  continue  as  in  Canoe  Trip  i. 


CANOE  TRIP  11 

Burntside  Lake — Big  Lake — Stuart  Lake — Boulder  River;  3  days. 
34  miles  of  paddling;  6  of  portaging. 

Average  fishing  for  bass. 

Guides  available  at  Ely,  Burntside  Lake. 

Portages  are  marked  by  signs  showing  names  of  lakes  and  portage  distances;  Ely-Buyck 

Trail  offers  other  starting  points  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  4)- 

Current  in  Stuart,  Dahlgren,  and  Boulder  rivers  is  very  slow. 

This  route   passes    through   an   interesting   area   with   numerous   beaver   dams,   moose, 

deer,  and  bear. 

Starting  point  BURNTSIDE  LAKE  (lodges,  housekeeping  cabins;  boat- 
ing, fishing,  swimming;  outfitting). 

First  day.  North  across  Burntside  Lake  into  NORTH  ARM  of  lake; 
24o-rod  portage  N.  W.  from  North  Arm  to  SLIM  LAKE;  two-mile  portage 
from  Slim  to  BIG  LAKE  (developed  campground  north  end). 

Second  day.  Portage  77  rods  to  ELY-BUYCK  TRAIL  and  1.25  miles 
from  Ely-Buyck  to  STUART  RIVER;  N.  (downstream)  on  Stuart;  p6-rod 
portage  (rapids)  from  Stuart  to  Stuart;  54-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Stuart 
to  Stuart;  64-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Stuart  to  Stuart;  74-rod  portage 
(rapids)  to  STUART  LAKE  (developed  campground;  bass  fishing). 

Third  day.  North  and  W.  across  lower  half  Stuart;  i26-rod  portage 
from  west  end  Stuart  to  DAHLGREN  RIVER;  N.  (downstream)  on  Dahl- 
gren  (submerged  rocJ^s,  but  passable)',  122-rod  portage  (rapids)  from 


SUPERIORNATIONALFOREST  63 

Dahlgren  to  BOULDER  RIVER.  Retrace  to  starting  point  (three  days). 
For  alternate  return:  see  Canoe  Trip  12  or  paddle  N.  E.  (downstream)  into 
LAC  LA  CROIX  (see  Canoe  Trip  /). 


CANOE  TRIP  12 

Burntside  Lake — Cummings  Lake — Moose  Lake — Nina  Moose  Lake — Lake 

Agnes;  4  days. 

31  miles  of  paddling;  4.75  of  portaging. 

Good  fishing  for  bass  and  wall-eyed  pike. 

Guides  available  at  Ely,  Burntside  Lake. 

Portages  are  marked  by  signs  showing  names  of  lakes  and  portage  distances;  Ely-Buyck 

Trail  offers  other  starting  points  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  4)- 

Current  in  river  is  negligible. 

This  route  passes  through  wild,  rugged  country  and  affords  excellent  opportunities 
to  see  moose  and  deer. 

Starting  point  BURNTSIDE  LAKE  (lodges,  housekeeping  cabins;  boat- 
ing, fishing,  swimming;  outfitting). 

First  day.  West  across  Burntside  Lake  and  portage  1.4  miles  to  CRAB 
LAKE;  N.  W.  across  Crab  and  portage  16  rods  into  LITTLE  CRAB 
LAKE  (bass)',  paddle  N.  (downstream)  from  Little  Crab  into  KORB 
RIVER  and  portage  N.  24  rods  to  KORB  LAKE  (bass)-,  E.  across  Korb 
into  Korb  River  (downstream):,  6o-rod  portage  (rapids)  W.  from  Korb  to 
cast  shore  CUMMINGS  LAKE  (partially  developed  campground;  bass 
fishing). 

Second  day.  North  across  Cummings  and  portage  two  miles  to  north 
shore  MOOSE  LAKE  (partially  developed  campground;  bass  fishing). 

Third  day.  Northwest  across  Moose  and  portage  71  rods  (rapids)  to 
MOOSE  RIVER;  137-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Moose  to  Moose;  i3o-rod 
portage  (rapids)  from  Moose  to  Moose;  77-rod  portage  (rapids)  from 
Moose  to  Moose;  6o-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Moose  to  Moose;  ii7-rod 
portage  (rapids)  from  Moose  to  Moose;  follow  Moose  to  ELY-BUYCK 
TRAIL  (developed  campground)',  portage  177  rods  across  Ely-Buyck  and 
past  rapids  to  Moose  River;  two  short  portages  (rapids)  on  Moose  to  NINA 
MOOSE  LAKE  (partially  developed  campground). 

Fourth  day.  Cross  Nina  Moose  N.  into  NINA  MOOSE  RIVER 
(downstream)',  two  o.3-mile  portages  (rapids)  on  Nina  Moose  to  LAKE 
AGNES  (partially  developed  campground;  wall-eyed  pike).  Retrace  to 
starting  point  (four  days)',  or  cross  Lake  Agnes  N.  E.  and  portage  116  rods 
to  BOULDER  RIVER  (one-half  day;  see  Canoe  Trip  n  or  Branch  Route 
•from  La{e  Agnes  to  Lac  La  Croix). 


64  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY! 

BRANCH  ROUTE 

From  Lake  Agnes  to  Lac  La  Croix:  via  Oyster  Lake;  2  days;  15  miles 
of  paddling;  1.25  of  portaging. 

Moose  and  deer;  good  landlocked  salmon  and  wall-eyed  pike  fishing;  rigorous  traveling. 

First  day.  Portage  190  rods  from  Lake  Agnes  to  OYSTER  RIVER; 
upstream  on  Oyster  with  a  short  portage  (rapids)  from  Oyster  into  OYS- 
TER LAKE  (partially  developed  campground;  landlocked  salmon). 

Second  day.  West  across  Oyster  and  portage  64  rods  to  ROCKY 
LAKE;  N.  on  Rocky  and  portage  87  rods  to  GREEN  LAKE;  N.  on  Green 
and  portage  122  rods  to  GE-BE-ON-E-QUET  LAKE;  N.  on  Ge-be-on-e- 
quet  and  portage  35  rods  (falls)  to  GE-BE-ON-E-QUET  CREEK  and 
paddle  (downstream)  into  POCKET  CREEK;  paddle  W.  (downstream) 
and  portage  24  rods  (rapids)  from  Pocket  to  Pocket;  paddle  from  Pocket 
into  POCKET  RIVER  and  W.  (downstream)  into  LAC  LA  CROIX  (see 
Canoe  Trip  i). 

Retrace  to  Lake  Agnes  (two  days),  or  follow  Canoe  Trip  i. 


CANOE  TRIP  13 

Moose  Lake — Ensign  Lake — Thomas  Lake — Kekekabic  Lake — Knife  Lake; 

4  days. 

35  miles  of  paddling;  2  of  portaging. 

Variety  of  fishing. 

Guides  available  at  Ely,  Winton,  Moose  Lake. 

Portages  are  good,  some  with  docks,  but  are  unmarked. 

Current  in  Thomas  River  is  sluggish. 

This  is  a  convenient  route  to  international  waters. 

Starting  point  MOOSE  LAKE  (lodges,  housekeeping  cabins,  meals; 
boating,  swimming,  fishing;  outfitting). 

First  day.  North  across  Moose  Lake  into  NEWFOUND  LAKE  (to 
reach  Canoe  Trip  i,  paddle  N.  across  Newfound  to  Sucker  La%e;  N.  across 
Sucker  into  Carp  into  Birch  La\e)\  36-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  extreme 
northeast  end  Newfound  to  ENSIGN  LAKE  and  paddle  to  southeast  shore 
(partially  developed  campground). 

Second  day.  Portage  56  rods  S.  to  BASS  LAKE;  S.  across  Bass  and 
portage  177  rods  to  FLY  LAKE;  S.  across  Fly  and  portage  25  rods  to 
MARSH  LAKE;  S.  across  Marsh  and  portage  45  rods  to  JORDAN  LAKE; 
ten-rod  portage  from  east  end  Jordan  to  IMA  LAKE;  S.  E.  across  Ima  and 
portage  50  rods  to  THOMAS  RIVER;  S.  (upstream)  on  Thomas  portaging 
17  rods  (rapids)  from  Thomas  to  Thomas;  29-rod  portage  from  Thomas 
to  a  POND;  S.  across  Pond  and  portage  eight  rods  to  THOMAS  LAKE 
(partially  developed  campground). 


SUPERIORNATIONALFOREST  65 

Third  day.  East  on  Thomas  and  paddle  through  channel  into  FRAZER 
LAKE;  i6-rod  portage  from  north  end  Frazer  to  GERUND  LAKE;  30-rod 
portage  from  north  end  Gerund  to  AHMAKOSE  LAKE;  96-rod  portage 
from  north  end  Ahmakose  to  WISINI  LAKE;  ten-rod  portage  from  north 
end  Wisini  to  STRUP  LAKE;  86-rod  portage  from  northwest  end  Strup 
to  KEKEKABIC  LAKE  (partially  developed  campground). 

Fourth  day.  Portage  86  rods  from  north  end  Kekekabic  to  PICKLE 
LAKE;  28-rod  portage  from  north  shore  Pickle  to  SPOON  LAKE;  N. 
across  Spoon  and  portage  31  rods  to  BONNIE  LAKE;  N.  E.  across  Bonnie 
and  portage  42  rods  to  KNIFE  LAKE;  paddle  to  west  shore  (partially 
developed  campground).  Retrace  to  starting  point  (four  days),  or  follow 
Canoe  Trip  i,  then  through  Sucker,  Newfound,  Moose  lakes  (one  day). 


CANOE  TRIP  14 

Vermilion  Lake — Little   Trout  Lake — Little  Indian   Sioux   River   Camp- 
ground— East  Bay  of  Loon  Lake — Lac  La  Croix;  4  days. 
57  miles  of  paddling;  5.5  of  portaging. 

Good  fishing  for  wall-eyed  pike,  bass,  and  landlocked  salmon. 

Portages  on  Little  Indian  Sioux  River  from  Little  Trout  Lake  to  Lac  La  Croix  are 

marked. 

Guides  available  at  Tower,  Vermilion  Lake. 

Current  in  rivers  is  sluggish. 

This   early  Indian  route   takes   the  canoeist   through  scenic  country  where  moose   are 

plentiful. 

Starting  point  VERMILION  LAKE  (resorts,  meals,  lodges,  camp- 
grounds, housekeeping  cabins;  excursions;  marine  mail  service;  outfitting). 

First  day.  North  across  Vermilion  Lake  around  east  end  PINE 
ISLAND;  W.  around  north  side  Pine  then  N.  through  NARROWS;  8o-rod 
portage  (motor  transportation)  from  north  end  Narrows  to  TROUT  LAKE 
(see  Branch  Route  from  Trout  La%e  to  Burntside  La\e)\  paddle  from 
northeast  end  Trout  into  LITTLE  TROUT  LAKE  (undeveloped  camp- 
ground; sand  beach). 

Second  day.  Portage  1.3  miles  (submerged  roc\s)  from  northeast  end 
Little  Trout  to  LITTLE  INDIAN  SIOUX  RIVER  (see  Branch  Route  from 
Little  Indian  Sioux  River  to  Burntside  La^e)',  N.  (downstream)  on  Little 
Indian  Sioux  to  24-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Little  Indian  Sioux  to  Little 
Indian  Sioux;  po-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Little  Indian  Sioux  to  Little 
Indian  Sioux;  i5-rod  portage  (Sioux  Falls)  from  Little  Indian  Sioux  to 
Little  Indian  Sioux;  portage  80  rods  (rapids)  and  across  ELY-BUYCK 
TRAIL  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  4). 

Third  day.  Portage  125  rods  from  Little  Indian  Sioux  to  Little  Indian 
Sioux  and  paddle  into  UPPER  PAUNESS  LAKE;  E.  across  Upper  Pauness 


66  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

and  portage  42  rods  E.  to  LOWER  PAUNESS  LAKE;  N.  on  Lower 
Pauness  and  portage  no  rods  to  LOON  LAKE  (forest  lookout  station; 
Devil's  Cascade  Canyon);  paddle  to  EAST  BAY  of  Loon  (undeveloped 
campground;  sand  beach;  see  Canoe  Trip  i). 

Fourth  day.  Portage  174  rods  from  northeast  arm  Loon  to  SLIM 
LAKE;  47-rod  portage  from  north  end  Slim  to  a  CREEK;  paddle  N. 
(downstream)  on  Creek  into  a  POND  and  portage  N.  74  rods  from  Pond 
to  SOUTH  LAKE;  S.  E.  on  South  and  portage  125  rods  (very  steep  por- 
tage) to  STEEP  LAKE  (bass);  46-rod  portage  from  north  end  Steep  to 
EUGENE  LAKE;  86-rod  portage  from  north  end  Eugene  to  GUN  LAKE 
(landlocked  salmon);  55-rod  portage  from  north  end  Gun  to  LAC  LA 
CROIX  (undeveloped  campground;  see  Canoe  Trip  i).  Retrace  to  starting 
point  (jour  days). 

BRANCH  ROUTE  NO.  1 

From  Trout  Lake  to  Burntside  Lake:  via  Pine  Lake;  2  days;  24  miles 
of  paddling;  6  of  portaging. 

Good  bass  fishing;  beautiful  scenery. 

First  day.  From  east  shore  Trout  Lake  portage  240  rods  to  PINE 
LAKE;  1.8-mile  portage  from  north  end  Pine  to  BUCK  LAKE  (blac\ 
bass);  pp-rod  portage  from  southeast  end  Buck  to  WESTERN  LAKE  (un- 
developed campground;  blacl^  bass  fishing). 

Second  day.  Portage  199  rods  from  east  end  Western  to  GLENMORE 
LAKE  (bass);  i89-rod  portage  from  southeast  end  Glenmore  to 
SCHLAMN  LAKE  (bass);  8o-rod  portage  from  extreme  east  end  Schlamn 
to  LUNNETTA  LAKE  (bass);  8o-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  northeast 
end  Lunnetta  to  LUNNETTA  RIVER;  E.  (downstream)  on  Lunnetta  into 
LITTLE  CRAB  LAKE;  S.  on  Little  Crab  and  portage  16  rods  to  CRAB 
LAKE;  i  .3-mile  portage  from  southeast  end  Crab  to  BURNTSIDE  LAKE; 
E.  across  Burntside  (lodges;  motor  transportation). 


BRANCH  ROUTE  NO.  2 

From  Little  Indian  Sioux  River  to  Burntside  Lake:  via  Little  Indian 
Sioux  River;  3  days;  24  miles  of  paddling;  2.5  of  portaging. 

Route  crooked,  traveling  slow;  good  bass  fishing. 

First  day.  South  and  E.  on  Little  Indian  Sioux  River  (upstream)  and 
portage  21  rods  (rapids)  from  Little  Indian  Sioux  to  Little  Indian  Sioux; 
S.  E.  and  portage  32  rods  (rapids)  from  Little  Indian  Sioux  to  Little  Indian 
Sioux;  ten-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Little  Indian  Sioux  to  Little  Indian 
Sioux;  74-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Little  Indian  Sioux  to  Little  Indian 


SUPERIORNATIONALFOREST  67 

Sioux;  27-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Little  Indian  Sioux  to  Little  Indian 
Sioux;  39-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Little  Indian  Sioux  to  Little  Indian 
Sioux;  24-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Little  Indian  Sioux  to  Little  Indian 
Sioux;  99-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Litde  Indian  Sioux  to  OTTER  LAKE 
(undeveloped  campground). 

Second  day.  East  across  Otter  and  portage  four  rods  to  CUMMINGS 
LAKE;  E.  across  Cummings  (undeveloped  campground;  bass  fishing). 

Third  day.  Portage  80  rods  from  Cummings  to  KORB  LAKE  (blac\ 
bass);  paddle  W.  across  Korb  and  into  KORB  RIVER  (upstream);  24-rod 
portage  (rapids)  from  Korb  to  Korb  and  paddle  into  LITTLE  CRAB 
LAKE;  S.  on  Little  Crab  and  portage  16  rods  to  CRAB  LAKE;  i. 3-mile 
portage  from  southeast  end  Crab  to  BURNTSIDE  LAKE;  E.  across  Burnt- 
side  (lodges;  motor  transportation). 


CANOE  TRIP  15 

Vermilion  Lake — Vermilion  Dam — Vermilion  River — Crane  Lake;  4  days. 
59  miles  of  paddling;  2  of  portaging. 

Average  fishing  for  wall-eyed  and  northern  pike. 

Guides  available  at  Tower,  Vermilion  Dam,  Crane  Lake. 

Portages  are  unmarked. 

River  current  is  not  rapid. 

This  route,  used  by  Indians  and  early  explorers,  is  picturesque,  passing  by  many  small 

farms  along  the  river  bank  and  through  several  wild  rice  beds  where  wild  ducks  may 

be  seen.  Wild  rice  beds  resembling  large  grain  fields  in  shallow  water,  usually  along 

lake  shores,  are  feeding  places  for  wild  fowl. 

Starting  point  VERMILION  LAKE  (resorts,  meals,  lodges,  undevel- 
oped campgrounds,  housekeeping  cabins;  excursions;  marine  mail  service; 
fishing,  swimming,  boating;  outfitting). 

First  day.  North  and  N.  W.  on  Vermilion  Lake  and  N.  through 
NILES  BAY  to  VERMILION  DAM  (resorts,  meals,  lodges,  housekeeping 
cabins;  excursions;  fishing,  boating,  swimming;  outfitting;  undeveloped 
campground). 

Second  day.  Portage  100  rods  (falls,  dam)  N.  E.  to  VERMILION 
RIVER;  downstream  on  Vermilion  and  portage  80  rods  (rapids)  from 
Vermilion  to  Vermilion;  6o-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Vermilion  to  Ver- 
milion; 4o-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Vermilion  to  Vermilion;  5o-rod  por- 
tage (rapids)  from  Vermilion  to  Vermilion;  30-rod  portage  (rapids)  from 
Vermilion  to  Vermilion  (undeveloped  campground). 

Third  day.  Portage  40  rods  (rapids)  from  Vermilion  to  Vermilion; 
40-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Vermilion  to  Vermilion;  6o-rod  portage 
(rapids)  from  Vermilion  to  Vermilion  (undeveloped  campground). 


68  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

Fourth  day.  Portage  40  rods  {rapids)  from  Vermilion  to  Vermilion; 
30-rod  portage  (rapids)  from  Vermilion  to  Vermilion;  o.8-mile  portage 
(jails,  gorge)  from  Vermilion  to  CRANE  LAKE  (several  campgrounds; 
meals,  lodges,  housekeeping  cabins;  swimming,  boating;  outfitting;  wall- 
eyed pife;  see  Canoe  Trip  /). 


PART  III 

Cities,  Towns,  and  Villages 


^rxJ0v^^0r*^0rx^0r*<0r*^^.<<0r^ 


Aitkin 


<<0*<0*<0*&^0'*j0K&*4?*s0K&*4r^^ 

Arrowhead  Tour  8. 

Railroad  station:  Northern  Pacific  Minnesota  Ave.  S.  (US  169,  2  blocks  S.). 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  117  Minnesota  Ave.  N. 

Taxis:     Taxi  and  livery  service  within  village  limits  and  to  surrounding  territory. 

Accommodations:     Four  hotels;  municipal  tourist  camp,  south  foot  3rd  Ave.  W. 

Information  service:     Aitkin  Lions  Club  Information  Bureau,  cor.  Minnesota  Ave.  and 

2nd  St. 

Golf:     Cuyuna  Range  Golf  Club  (open  to  public),  US  210,  8  miles  W.  (Deerwood); 

9  holes. 

Tennis:  Aitkin  Tennis  Court  south  foot  2nd  Ave.  W. 


THE  TURKEY  CAPITAL 

Aitkin  (1,230  alt.,  2,063  P°P-)  at  tne  junction  of  the  Mississippi  and 
Ripple  rivers,  is  the  administrative  seat  and  largest  community  of  Aitkin 
County  and  the  focal  point  of  an  important  farming  area. 

The  site  of  the  village  was  a  Sioux  hunting  ground  until  1750,  when  the 
westward-advancing  Chippewa  definitely  established  their  supremacy.  The 
last  Sioux-Chippewa  battle,  at  Kathio,  was  fought  throughout  the  territory 
between  Mille  Lacs  and  Big  Sandy  lakes.  The  500  dead  were  buried  just 
north  of  where  the  Kathio  School  stands  at  Vineland,  on  the  south  shore 
of  Mille  Lacs;  the  spot  still  is  an  Indian  burial  ground,  where  the  visitor 
can  see  new-turned  earth  and  "spirithouses"  over  the  graves.  Radisson  and 
Groseilliers  probably  passed  near  Aitkin  between  1655  and  1660,  and  Daniel 
Greysolon,  Sieur  du  Lhut,  camped  in  the  area  in  1679  while  on  his  visit 
to  Mille  Lacs.  To  establish  posts,  fur  traders  ascended  St.  Louis  River  from 
Fond  du  Lac,  portaged  over  the  Great  Savanna  (see  Flood  wood),  then  pad- 
dled down  the  Mississippi.  Traces  of  an  overland  trail  between  Fond  du 
Lac  and  Aitkin,  used  until  1870,  still  are  visible. 

Among  the  traders  was  William  Aitkin,  after  whom  both  the  county 
and  village  are  named.  Aitkin  operated,  independent  of  any  company, 
among  Indians  in  the  northern  part  of  the  present  county.  In  1832,  he 
was  made  factor  of  the  American  Fur  Company's  post  at  Big  Sandy  Lake, 
but  was  discharged  for  incompetence  in  1838.  Afterwards,  he  carried  on  in- 
dependent operations  until  his  death  in  1851.  Reverend  Edmund  F.  Ely  (see 
Duluth,  Tour  3),  missionary  at  the  Big  Sandy  Lake  post  in  1833-34,  de- 


72  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

scribes  trips  taken  up  and  down  the  Mississippi,  and  the  site  of  the  present 
village  of  Aitkin  probably  was  well  known  to  him,  though  as  yet  no  per- 
manent settlement  had  been  made. 

This  region,  like  the  rest  of  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead,  was  covered 
with  pine  forests.  Local  lumbering  activities  were  carried  on  near  the 
rivers;  but  big-scale  operations  were  not  begun  until  after  1870,  the  year 
in  which  the  Northen  Pacific  Railroad  was  extended  through  the  district. 
The  location  was  chosen  as  a  station  of  the  railroad,  and  a  town  imme- 
diately founded.  The  first  house  was  put  up  in  1870  by  Nathaniel  Tibbets, 
who  later  built  Aitkin's  first  hotel,  the  Ojibway  House,  that  was  torn  down 
before  the  turn  of  the  century.  Immigrants,  attracted  by  rosy  tales  of  the 
opportunities  awaiting  them,  began  to  settle  in  the  village  and  adjacent 
territory. 

Before  lumbering  activities  started  in  earnest,  the  only  means  of  travel 
in  the  summer  between  Grand  Rapids  and  Aitkin  was  by  river.  Steam- 
boats plied  between  the  two  settlements,  but  the  trip  was  not  always  com- 
fortable. If  conditions  were  favorable,  a  one-way  journey  took  18  or  20 
hours.  However,  sorrowful  was  the  lot  of  the  passenger  when  conditions 
were  unfavorable.  He  would  have  to  help  shove  the  boat  off  shoals,  and 
sometimes  a  single  trip  would  take  the  better  part  of  a  week.  The  "pride 
of  the  upper  Mississippi"  at  this  time  was  the  Andy  Gibson,  owned  by 
Ed  Lowell  and  Leo  West  of  Aitkin  and  Fred  Bonness  of  Grand  Rapids. 
The  boat  was  150  feet  long,  had  a  25-foot  beam,  and  carried  150  tons  of 
freight  and  200  passengers. 

When  the  forests  had  been  cut,  the  settlers  turned  to  farming.  More 
immigrants  were  attracted  by  the  rich  soil,  among  them  many  from 
Sweden  and  Germany  in  1884.  Agriculture  rapidly  came  to  the  front,  and 
Aitkin  soon  developed  into  a  trade  center.  At  present,  it  is  one  of  the  most 
prosperous  farming  communities  in  the  Arrowhead.  Dotting  the  surround- 
ing territory  are  small-fruit,  poultry,  and  dairy  farms,  and  large  flocks  of 
turkeys  are  raised  for  Eastern  markets.  Two  creameries  operate  in  the  town, 
one  of  which  churns  butter  and  condenses  buttermilk  into  powder;  the 
other  makes  butter  and  maintains  a  milk  route.  The  village  has  dairy  and 
livestock  shipping  associations. 

The  Aitkin  County  Courthouse  (US  210  bet.  2nd  and  3rd  Aves.  N.  W.), 
of  white  face  brick  and  Bedford  stone,  was  built  in  1929  and  houses  all 
county  offices.  Adjoining  are  the  county  jail  and  sheriff's  residence.  The 
Aitkin  Grade  and  High  schools  (2nd  St.  bet.  3rd  and  4th  Aves.  N.  W.) 
are  modern,  the  former  having  been  remodeled,  and  the  latter  built,  in 
1928;  a  new  gymnasium  and  auditorium  were  built  during  1939.  The 
Aitkin  Armory  (adjacent  to  Northern  Pacific  Station),  with  a  seating 
capacity  of  2,000,  is  the  headquarters  for  the  34th  M.  P.  Company  of  the 
34th  Division.  St.  James  Catholic  Church  (2nd  St.  N.  W.  opposite  High 
School),  whose  spire  is  brilliantly  illuminated  at  night,  was  erected  in  1885. 

Aitkin  is  drawing  steadily  increasing  summer-tourist  business,  for  within 
easy  driving  distance  are  many  lakes,  of  which  historic  and  picturesque 
Mille  Lacs  is  the  largest,  and  numerous  resorts,  where  good  fishing,  hunt- 
ing, water  sports,  and  other  recreational  facilities  are  available. 


AURORA  73 

*s0rv^0V^rto0'Xj0r*^*^^v4rx&v^^ 


Aurora 


Arrowhead  Tour  4- 

Railroad   station:     Duluth,   Missabe   &   Iron    Range,   Railroad    Avc.   bet.   Missabe   and 

Jackson  Sts. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  Jackson  St.  bet.  2nd  and  3rd  Aves. 

Accommodations:     One  hotel;  tourist  homes. 

Information  service:     Aurora  Commercial  Club,  Village  Hall,  2nd  Ave.  bet.  Jackson 

and  Vermilion  Sts. 


DAWN  ON  THE  MESABI 

Aurora  (1,478  alt.,  1,528  pop.),  its  name  from  the  Latin  meaning 
"morning,"  is  an  eastern  Mesabi  Range  mining  town  that  was  moved 
from  its  original  location  to  improve  its  railroad  facilities. 

Although  ore  had  been  found  in  paying  quantities  at  Biwabik  in  1891, 
most  of  the  subsequent  exploratory  work  was  done  on  the  western  end  of 
the  Mesabi.  The  Meadow  Mine  (exhausted),  the  first  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  unborn  Aurora,  was  explored  in  1898.  A  settlement  grew  near  the 
mine  and,  in  1903,  was  incorporated  as  a  village.  It  soon  was  evident,  how- 
ever, that  the  location  (one  mile  north  of  the  present  site)  was  too  far 
from  the  Duluth  and  Iron  Range  Railroad,  which  served  the  Vermilion 
Range  and  the  eastern  end  of  the  Mesabi.  Today's  town  site  was  platted 
by  E.  J.  Longyear,  and  building  was  begun  in  1905.  The  village  then 
moved  to  its  new  location  on  the  railroad,  and  a  period  of  rapid  develop- 
ment followed. 

The  mines  here  have  not  been  operated  so  extensively  as  those  on  other 
parts  of  the  range,  but  vast  reserves  underlie  the  district.  Mining  inactivity 
temporarily  has  checked  the  growth  of  the  community.  Aurora  is,  how- 
ever, the  trade  center  for  a  growing  number  of  miners  who  have  turned 
to  farming,  especially  dairying,  for  a  livelihood.  It  has  a  municipally 
owned  potato  warehouse  of  18,000  bushels  capacity  for  certified  seed  and 
table  stock. 

Aurora's  three  tapestry-brick  schools,  Aurora  High,  Hearding  High,  and 
Johnson  Grade,  stand  on  a  i5-acre  campus  (cor.  4th  Ave.  and  Vermilion 
St.).  Shell-pink  Kasota  stone  and  Flemish-gray  oak  finish  the  halls  of  the 
high  school.  The  agricultural  department  supervises  a  complete  dairy 
room,  in  which  milk  is  pasteurized  for  distribution  to  undernourished 
pupils.  The  music  department  has  a  30-piece  orchestra,  which  has  won 
State-wide  honors,  and  a  48-piece  band.  Housed  in  the  high  school  is  a 
museum  containing  225  mounted  specimens  of  birds,  25  mounted  animals, 
1,694  mounted  classified  insects,  miniatures  of  a  lumber  camp,  open-pit 
mine,  and  farm.  There  is  also  a  large  collection  of  fossils — fish,  reptiles, 


74  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

leaves,  and  plants.     The  Village  Hall,  built  in  1910,  houses  the  fire  de- 
partment and  library. 

The  village  is  within  easy  driving  distance  of  the  Vermilion  Lake  region, 
the  Superior  National  Forest,  and  Esquagama  Lake.  Colby  and  White- 
water lakes,  three  miles  east  of  Aurora,  provide  picnic,  camping,  and  recrea- 
tional facilities. 


<sG^&*s0r*&V*0^0™<&V^*<&^V*0r*^ 


Barnum 


Arrowhead  Tour  8. 

Railroad  station:     Northern  Pacific,  Main  St.,  3  blocks  W. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  US  61  bet.  Oak  and  Main  Sts. 

Accommodations:     One  hotel. 

Information  service:     Barnum  Hotel,  cor.  US  61  and  Main  St. 

Annual  event  (exact  dates  vary):     Carlton  County  Fair,  August. 


AN  ARROWHEAD  EGG  BASKET 

Barnum  (1,122  alt.,  327  pop.),  on  the  Moose  Horn  River,  is  the  chicken 
center  of  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead  country.  The  cheeping  of  thousands 
of  chicks  has  replaced  the  buzzing  of  the  sawmill  to  which  the  town  first 
looked  for  survival. 

The  settlement  was  born  in  1870,  when  the  Arrowhead's  first  railroad, 
now  the  Northern  Pacific,  was  constructed  from  St.  Paul  to  Duluth,  and 
opened  a  way  to  the  pine  lands.  The  first  settlers  were  loggers.  In  1879, 
there  were  only  four  white  men,  two  with  families,  living  here;  Bill  Oliver, 
the  postmaster,  owned  the  land  now  included  in  the  village.  In  that  year, 
seven  German  families  took  up  homesteads  near  by.  Others  soon  followed, 
attracted  by  jobs  in  the  timber.  In  1887,  the  town  site  was  platted;  two 
years  later,  it  was  incorporated  as  a  village  and  named  for  George  G. 
Barnum  of  Duluth,  a  former  paymaster  for  the  railroad. 

As  the  forests  were  depleted,  the  life  of  the  small  village  seemed  doomed. 
In  1904,  however,  an  enterprising  citizen,  H.  C.  Hanson,  convinced  that 
the  region  was  adapted  to  dairying,  took  over  an  abandoned  creamery  build- 
ing and  urged  farmers  to  develop  purebred  herds.  Their  May  Rose  Guern- 
sey cattle  have  won  State  and  national  recognition  (see  Walter).  With  the 
development  of  the  industry,  the  creamery  became  one  of  the  largest  in  the 
country.  In  1924,  it  was  reorganized  and  a  modern  plant  was  built.  Fol- 
lowing his  success  in  dairying,  Hanson  encouraged  the  development  of  the 
poultry  industry  and  recommended  the  breeding  of  a  pure  strain  of  chicken. 
The  White  Leghorn  was  chosen,  and  today  there  are  several  extensive 


BEAVERBAY  75 

poultry  farms  near  Barnum.  One  chicken  house  has  become  a  Minnesota 
model.  The  Maplewood  Farm  is  one  of  the  largest  of  its  kind  in  the 
Northwest.  Poultry  raising,  for  both  egg  and  chick  production,  has  proved 
so  profitable  that  producers  have  installed  large  electrically  controlled  incu- 
bators. The  area  is  suited  to  raising  potatoes,  and  crops  have  won  State 
and  district  prizes. 

Barnum's  educational  facilities  have  kept  pace  with  its  economic  devel- 
opment. The  Grade  and  High  School  (cor.  Main  St.  and  Carlton  Ave.) 
draws  pupils  from  a  wide  radius.  In  1928,  Mr.  Barnum  donated  $15,000 
for  an  addition  to  the  school,  to  be  used  as  a  public  library.  He  also  was 
the  donor  of  many  of  its  books.  On  February  22,  1940,  another  addi- 
tion, consisting  of  an  up-to-date  auditorium-gymnasium  and  five  classrooms, 
was  dedicated. 

Big  Hanging  Horn  Lake  (Big  Hanging  Horn  Lake  Rd.,  two  miles 
south),  on  which  is  Camp  Wanakiwin,  Duluth  YWCA  Camp,  is  popular 
with  fishermen  and  vacationists. 

The  Methodist  Assembly  Grounds,  on  Little  Hanging  Horn  Lake,  are 
considered  among  the  most  attractive  in  the  United  States,  and  are  used 
throughout  the  summer  season  by  various  denominations. 


*^*^*^r»*0K&^<4?*^-<'G^^*<Gr*<Gf*'&*^ 


Beaver  Bay 


Arrowhead  Tour  1. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  Beaver  Bay  Trading  Post. 

Accommodations:     One  hotel;   2  tourist  homes. 

Information  service:     Beaver  Bay  Trading  Post. 

Stemming:     Three  pools  in  Beaver  River,  at  point  of  land  separating  the  river  from 

the  bay. 

A  NORTH  SHORE  HAVEN 

Beaver  Bay  (602  alt.,  unincorporated),  Lake  County,  about  53  miles 
northeast  of  Duluth,  nestled  around  a  bay  where  Beaver  River  empties 
into  Lake  Superior,  is  the  only  town  site  on  the  north  shore  between 
Duluth  and  Grand  Portage  boasting  of  a  continuous  existence  from  the 
boom  period  of  the  1850*5  to  the  present  time. 

The  early  history  of  Beaver  Bay,  largely  a  "family  affair,"  is  the  story 
of  the  Wieland  brothers. 

The  site  of  Beaver  Bay  was  occupied  from  October  20,  1854,  by  the 
"subscribers"  William  H.  Newton  and  Thomas  Clark  2nd.  The  plat  of  the 
town  was  filed  on  June  24,  1856,  with  the  Register  of  Deeds  of  St.  Louis 
County — not  Lake  County — though  both  counties  had  been  established 


76  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

simultaneously  on  March  i,  1856.  On  May  10,  1866,  Lake  County  was 
organized  and  the  first  county  commissioners  were  appointed  by  the  Gover- 
nor of  Minnesota.  Beaver  Bay  was  considered  to  be  the  seat  of  Lake 
County  until  1888,  when  Two  Harbors  was  made  the  county  seat. 

In  June,  1856,  the  first  settlers  arrived  on  the  chartered  steamer  Illinois. 
They  came  from  the  Maumee  Valley  in  northwestern  Ohio.  The  site  had 
been  selected  for  them  by  Thomas  Clark  2nd  and  Christian  Wieland,  both 
civil  engineers  and  surveyors,  who  had  come  to  Superior,  Wisconsin,  in 
1854. 

The  first  post  office  at  Beaver  Bay  was  established  in  1856,  and  Robert 
B.  McLean  was  first  postmaster.  In  June,  1857,  the  Wieland  brothers  took 
possession  of  all  the  rights  and  interests  of  the  "subscribers"  at  Beaver 
Bay.  The  panic  of  1857  brought  hardships  to  these  pioneers,  and  several 
became  discouraged  and  moved  to  southern  Minnesota.  In  1859  the  Wie- 
lands  built  a  sawmill  on  the  Beaver  River,  which  for  25  years  was  practi- 
cally the  sole  industrial  support  of  the  village. 

During  the  first  two  years  of  the  settlement,  there  were  no  Indians 
at  Beaver  Bay.  In  the  summer  of  1858,  two  Indian  families  came  from 
Grand  Portage  and  camped  on  the  gravel  point  at  the  mouth  of  Beaver 
River;  the  next  year,  additional  families  came.  They  worked  in  the  mill 
or  in  the  lumber  camps  and  became  permanent  residents  of  the  settle- 
ment, but  once  a  year  they  returned  to  Grand  Portage  to  receive  their 
Government  annuities. 

In  1884,  the  Wieland  brothers  sold  the  sawmill  and  their  timber  hold- 
ings to  Gibbs  and  Mallett,  and  some  years  later  these  holdings  were  ac- 
quired by  the  Alger  Smith  Lumber  Company.  After  the  merchantable 
timber  in  the  surrounding  area  had  been  cut,  Beaver  Bay  reverted  to  its 
status  of  the  1850*5,  with  fishing  and  small-scale  farming  its  only  industries. 

Today  the  small  settlement  is  but  a  part  of  the  town  of  Beaver  Bay, 
with  a  Community  Hall  and  a  Grade  School.  In  the  Indian  cemetery,  the 
names  of  the  buried  are  engraved  on  a  bronze  plaque.  The  first  mill- 
stone, dating  from  1865,  is  on  display  at  the  Beaver  Bay  Trading  Post. 

Deep-sea  fishing  and  speed  boating  are  the  major  attractions  at  Beaver 
Bay,  which  is  also  noted  as  a  haven  for  hay  fever  sufferers.  There  are 
many  beauty  spots  in  the  vicinity. 


Bemidji. 


Arrowhead  Tour  8. 

Railroad  stations:  Minneapolis,  St.  Paul  &  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  and  Minnesota  and  Inter- 
national, cor.  Beltrami  Ave.  and  ist  St.  (Union  Depot);  Great  Northern,  south  foot 
Minnesota  Ave. 


B  E  M  I  D  J  I  77 

Bus    stations:     Northland    Greyhound    Lines,    Triangle    Transportation    Co.,    Northern 

Transportation  Co.,  Markham  Hotel,  200  Beltrami  Ave.,  and  New  Bemidji  Hotel,  102 

Minnesota  Ave. 

Local  bus  line:     Bemidji  Local  Bus  Line,  509  Central  Ave.,  offers  service  within  city 

limits. 

Airport:     Municipal,  US   2,   2.5   miles   N.  W.;   hangar  and   service   facilities  day  and 

night;  fuel  and  oil  available. 

Taxis:     Two  cab  companies  offer  service  within  city  limits  and  to  surrounding  territory. 

Accommodations:     Twenty-one    hotels    and    tourist    homes;    municipal    tourist    camp, 

Diamond  Point  Park,  1700  Doud  Ave.,  on  Lake  Bemidji;  Bemidji  State  Park  Tourist 

Camp,  head  of  Lake  Bemidji. 

Information  service:     Bemidji  Civic  and  Commerce  Association,  Fireplace  of  States  Bldg., 

foot  3rd  St.  on  lake  shore. 

Recreational  facilities:     Bemidji  Sports  Arena,  615  America  Ave. 

Golf:     Bemidji  Municipal  Golf  Course,  US  71,  i  mile  S.;  9  holes.     Bemidji  Town  and 

Country  Club,  US  71,  6  miles  N.,  0.5  mile  E.;  18  holes. 

Tennis:     Municipal  court,  cor.  America  Ave.  and  6th  St.;  Public  School  Courts,  High 

School  Athletic  Field,  cor.  i6th  St.  and  Bemidji  Ave. 

Rifle  range:     Bemidji  Gun  Club  and  Range,  US  2,  0.75  mile  S.  E.,  on  lake  shore. 

Riding  academy:     Bemidji   Riding   Academy,   old   Trunk   Highway   4,    1.5    miles  W.; 

horses  also  available  at  Ruttger's  Birchmont  Lodge,  US  71,  5  miles  N. 

Annual  event  (exact  dates  vary):     Paul  Bunyan  Winter  Carnival,  January  or  February. 


DREAMING  OF  DIAMONDS,  THEY  BUILT  A  CITY 

Bemidji  (1,351  alt.,  9,427  pop.),  Beltrami  County  seat,  owes  its  begin- 
ning to  a  tantalizing  glitter,  its  development  to  the  pine  land  surrounding 
it,  and  its  present  stability  to  its  wood  industries,  agricultural  processing 
plants,  and  tourist  trade.  The  name,  that  of  an  Indian  chief  whose  band 
of  50  had  made  its  home  on  the  south  shore  of  Lake  Bemidji,  is  Chippewa 
and  means  "easy  crossing"  or  "place  the  river  flows  into  and  out  again," 
the  latter  translation  referring  to  the  flowing  of  the  Mississippi  through 
the  lake. 

The  old  Red  Lake  Trail,  used  by  fur  traders  and  early  settlers,  passed 
through  what  now  is  Bemidji,  continued  north  to  the  southern  part  of 
Lower  Red  Lake,  and  finally  branched  off  into  the  War  Road  and  Pembina 
trails.  An  Indian  path  skirted  the  shores  of  the  lake,  passed  Chief  Bemidji's 
shack  on  the  east  side  of  the  Mississippi,  and  crossed  the  river  on  a  sand 
bar  at  about  the  point  where  the  highway  bridge  (US  2)  now  stands. 

The  first  white  settlement  was  established  in  1866,  but  the  town  did  not 
grow  rapidly,  and  it  was  30  years  before  Bemidji  was  incorporated.  A 
fantastic  boom  that  occurred  in  1894  was  largely  responsible  for  its  ultimate 
development.  One  summer  afternoon  a  homesteader  was  strolling  along 
the  west  shore  of  the  lake.  Suddenly  his  heavy  boot  kicked  up  some  peb- 
bles, and  at  his  feet  lay  one  piece  of  stone  that  shimmered  and  sparkled. 
He  dropped  to  his  knees  and  tremblingly  uncovered  many  with  the  same 
glitter.  That  they  were  diamonds  he  had  no  doubt.  The  poor  settler 
thought  he  was  standing  in  the  midst  of  a  diamond  field  that  would  rival 
any  in  Africa!  Delirious  with  joy,  he  rushed  home  and  then  without  delay 
to  St.  Paul.  When  he  could  find  no  one  else  to  identify  the  specimen  with 
certainty,  he  sent  it  to  an  expert  in  New  York  City.  He  had  no  money, 


78  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

so  he  decided  to  confide  his  secret  to  a  few  friends.  Their  response  to  his 
enthusiasm  was  all  that  could  be  desired. 

Quickly  the  homesteader  was  packed  off  to  Bemidji  with  instructions 
to  secure  options  in  the  name  of  the  association  on  all  land  in  the  vicinity. 
This  he  did,  and  then,  impatient  at  the  long  delay  of  the  New  York  report, 
he  bought  the  land  outright.  Mail  was  slow  in  those  days,  and  the  "poten- 
tial Cecil  Rhodeses"  in  St.  Paul  waited  anxiously.  At  last  the  report  came. 
It  was  elaborate  and  full  of  confusing  detail,  but  one  statement  was  clear — 
the  stone  was  simple  quartzite.  The  aspiring  diamond  kings  now  had 
on  their  hands  large  tracts  of  undeveloped  land,  land  at  that  time  remote 
from  civilization  and  railroads. 

The  story  has  a  happy  ending,  however.  Before  long,  aided  by  a  pro- 
motion scheme,  they  were  able  to  recoup  their  losses,  even  enjoy  substantial 
profits.  A  city  grew — the  city  of  Bemidji.  From  then  on,  development 
proceeded  on  a  more  substantial  basis.  Not  far  from  the  site  were  excellent 
stands  of  pine,  and  these  soon  brought  loggers  and  lumber  companies. 
In  the  winter  of  1894-95,  tne  fifst  sawmill,  hauled  in  by  team,  was  set 
up  on  the  shores  of  the  lake.  Then  followed  a  period  of  wild  lawlessness. 
In  its  heyday,  Bemidji  was  one  of  the  rowdiest  sawmill  towns  in  the  North- 
west. It  grew  steadily.  In  1900  the  population  was  2,183;  by  1910  it  had 
increased  to  5,099,  and  to  7,086  by  1920. 

Today,  Bemidji  is  not  only  the  trade  center  for  a  very  large  territory, 
but  also  is  becoming  an  industrial  city  whose  sawmills  have  been  replaced 
by  woodworking  plants,  notably  the  rowboat  factory  of  the  Northland 
Boatcraft  Company  (US  2,  one  mile  east).  The  David  Park  Company 
(Soo  Line  right-of-way  bet.  Minnesota  and  Irvine  Aves.),  the  largest  egg- 
packing  plant  in  the  State  outside  of  Minneapolis,  handles  250  carloads 
of  eggs  annually.  Three  creameries  serve  the  region.  Among  the  manufac- 
turing establishments  are  a  flour  mill,  a  bottling  works,  a  woolen  mill,  and 
a  brick  plant.  Bemidji's  mercantile  institutions  serve  the  entire  north- 
western part  of  Minnesota.  The  Interstate  Power  Company  (212  3rd  St.) 
owns  a  hydroelectric  plant  and  supplies  power  to  60  towns.  All  the  fuel 
required  to  generate  this  electricity  is  obtained  from  sawdust,  the  refuse 
of  the  Bemidji  Wood  Products  Company  (801  ist  St.),  a  subsidiary  of  the 
power  company. 

In  the  heart  of  a  recreational  wonderland,  Bemidji  extends  along  the 
shores  of  beautiful  Lake  Bemidji.  A  few  miles  to  the  south  lies  Itasca  State 
Park  with  thousands  of  acres  of  virgin  forest  and  scenic  Lake  Itasca,  head- 
waters of  the  Mississippi  River.  To  the  north  is  Red  Lake  on  whose  shores 
is  the  village  of  Ponemah,  immortalized  in  the  poetry  of  Longfellow. 
Cass  Lake,  with  its  historic,  pine-covered  Star  Island  {see  Cass  Lafe),  is 
but  a  short  drive  to  the  east.  The  entire  region  is  famed  nationally  for 
its  fishing.  Practically  all  other  seasonal  sports  are  carried  on. 

The  Paul  Bunyan  Carnival  (see  Brainerd)  attracts  thousands  of  visitors 
each  winter,  for  Bemidji  claims  to  be  the  birthplace  of  Minnesota's  great 
legendary  logger.  On  the  shore  of  Lake  Bemidji  (foot  3rd  St.)  is  an 
1 8-foot  steel  and  concrete  statue  of  Paul,  and  also  a  statue  of  Babe,  the 
Blue  Ox,  14  feet  high  and  18  feet  long. 


B  E  N  A  79 

The  town  owes  much  of  its  unusual  beauty  to  its  lake  shore,  and  offers 
to  residents  and  tourists  fine  beaches,  n  parks,  and  other  points  of  interest. 
Three  of  the  parks  are  State-owned,  all  sections  of  Lake  Bemidji  State  Park 
(205  acres),  established  in  1923;  two  of  the  units  (east  Birchmont  Rd.)  are 
on  the  north  shore,  and  the  third  (Lavinia  Rd.)  on  the  southeast. 

The  Fireplace  of  States,  containing  stone  from  every  State  in  the  Union, 
in  the  building  of  the  same  name,  and  a  statue  of  Chief  Bemidji,  in  Library 
Park  (Bemidji  Ave.  bet.  3rd  and  6th  Sts.),  invariably  arouse  comment. 
As  to  the  origin  of  the  statue,  there  are  several  theories;  one  is  that  it 
was  carved  from  a  solid  log  by  a  lumberman  who  had  been  befriended 
in  childhood  by  the  old  chief.  The  State  Teachers  College  (1300  Birch- 
mont Drive),  overlooking  the  lake,  was  opened  in  1919  and  is  the  most 
recently  established  in  Minnesota. 


<0^0~*^r,,^0v^0v4?v<0v<0rx^^^ 


Bena 


Arrowhead  Tour  8. 

Railroad  station:     Great  Northern,  cor.  US  2  and  ist  Ave.  W. 

Bus  station:     Northland   Greyhound   Lines,   Winnibigoshish  Tourist  Camp,  cor.  US   2 

and  ist  Ave.  W. 

Information  service:     Great  Northern  R.  R.  Station. 


HERE  THE  PARTRIDGE  FINDS  A  REFUGE 

Bena  (1,311  alt.,  319  pop.),  on  the  south  shore  of  Winnibigoshish  Lake, 
is  in  the  heart  of  the  Chippewa  National  Forest  and  on  an  Indian  reserva- 
tion (see  Cass  Lafe).  Its  name  is  a  Chippewa  word  meaning  "partridge." 

For  centuries,  Indians  have  lived  between  Leech  and  Winnibigoshish 
lakes,  a  region  celebrated  for  its  fishing  and  hunting.  During  the  era  of 
early  fur  trading,  a  number  of  posts  were  established  in  the  area.  When 
lumbermen  began  after  1850  to  log  off  the  surrounding  pine,  there  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  a  settlement  of  some  kind  at  the  site  of  Bena.  In  1890, 
the  foreman  of  a  lumber  camp  settled  here,  and  the  first  store  was  opened 
in  1898. 

Loggers  and  devastating  fires  depleted  the  wooded  areas.  In  1902,  the 
Minnesota  National  Forest,  now  the  Chippewa  National  Forest,  was  estab- 
lished to  protect  the  remaining  stands  of  virgin  timber,  and  with  the  re- 
forestation project  the  small  settlement  grew.  The  Bena  Townsite  Com- 
pany platted  and  incorporated  the  village  in  1910.  Development  has  been 
slow,  since  there  is  no  basic  industry  and  the  population  is  predominantly 
Indian.  Farming  has  developed  to  some  extent.  The  soil  is  suitable  for 


80  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

raising  potatoes  and  other  root  crops.    Logging  is  carried  on  only  under 
the  supervision  of  the  United  States  Forest  Service. 

Bena,  an  entrance  to  a  vast  lake  and  wilderness  region,  is  an  outfitting 
point  for  tourists  and  fishermen.  Winnibigoshish,  its  name  Chippewa  for 
"miserable  wretched  dirty  water,"  is  one  of  the  largest  lakes  in  Minnesota 
and  offers  excellent  fishing.  Good  roads  lead  from  Bena  to  the  many 
near-by  resorts. 


Big  Falls 


Arrowhead  "Tour  8. 

Railroad  station:     Minnesota  &  International,  State  6  junction  with  US  71  bet.  ist  and 

2nd  Sts.  S. 

Bus    station:     Northern    Transportation    Co.,    Robinson    Hotel,    cor.    and    St.    N.    and 

Division  Ave. 

Accommodations:     Two  hotels;  tourist  cabins;  private  rooms  in  homes. 

Information  service:     Robinson  Hotel. 

Swimming:     Municipal  beach,  South  River  Bank  Rd.,  i  mile  N.  E. 

Rifle  range:     Big  Falls  Rifle  Club,  cor.  2nd  St.  N.  and  International  Ave. 


WHERE  AXES  STILL  RESOUND 

Big  Falls  (1,240  alt.,  509  pop.),  in  the  fertile  valley  and  on  the  falls 
of  the  Big  Fork  River  (see  Little  forty,  is  the  center  of  an  agricultural  area, 
though  its  main  industry  is  lumbering. 

Although  Indians  did  not  live  in  the  immediate  area,  they  paddled 
through  it  over  the  Sturgeon  and  Big  Fork  rivers  to  Rainy  Lake  and  Lake 
of  the  Woods.  Fur  traders  probably  followed  this  route  and,  from  evi- 
dence found,  may  have  built  a  post  for  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  on  the 
Sturgeon  River,  a  short  distance  from  the  site  of  Big  Falls.  At  the  turn 
of  the  century  came  lumbermen,  attracted  by  pine  forests  and  available 
water  power.  A  railroad,  the  Big  Fork  and  Northern,  was  built  from 
Northome  to  Big  Falls  and,  in  1905,  was  leased  to  the  Minnesota  and 
International,  the  Brainerd  to  International  Falls  branch  of  the  Northern 
Pacific,  by  which  it  is  still  controlled. 

Farming  developed  as  the  land  was  cleared.  The  deep,  black,  sandy 
loam  is  adapted  especially  to  clover,  potatoes,  and  small  grains.  Blueberries 
are  an  important  summer  crop.  Good  highways  leading  in  all  directions 
make  markets  easily  accessible.  Although  farming  is  becoming  more  and 
more  important,  lumbering  still  leads.  Quantities  of  pulpwood,  cedar  ties 
and  poles  are  shipped  each  year,  and  many  men  are  given  employment  in 
the  logging  camps  in  winter. 


B  I  WA  BIK  8l 

A  hydroelectric  power  plant,  owned  locally  by  the  Croswell  Power  and 
Light  Company,  has  been  built  south  of  the  falls  of  the  Big  Fork  River, 
one-fourth  of  a  mile  from  town. 

Also  along  the  Big  Fork  River  is  a  forestry  station  and  a  fire  tower, 
which  with  several  office  buildings  and  living  quarters  comprise  the  unit. 
It  operates  in  conjunction  with  CCC  Camp  4701,  one  mile  east,  and  Center 
Camp  in  the  Pine  Island  Forest,  25  miles  west. 

In  1939,  US  Highway  71  received  black-top  treatment  from  Big  Falls 
to  the  Canadian  border,  and  the  work  is  being  continued  south  to  Big  Falls. 

The  Byman  Museum  in  Big  Falls,  with  its  Indian  relics,  arrowheads, 
pictures,  oddities,  and  other  interesting  features,  is  open  to  the  public. 

East  of  town  and  on  the  Big  Fork  River  is  the  Mission  Covenant  Church 
District  Bible  Camp,  which  is  open  for  ten  days  each  summer  and  offers 
vacation  possibilities  for  rest,  devotion,  and  instruction. 

Game  is  plentiful  and  duck  hunting  is  especially  popular.  There  is 
good  fishing  in  the  three  near-by  streams:  the  Sturgeon,  Big  Fork,  and 
Little  Fork.  This  is  a  potential  tourist  center,  for  it  is  close  to  wilderness 
and  lake  regions,  and  there  are  numerous  tourist  parks  and  campgrounds. 


<*0^4r*<0^0*0r*<0*&*-0*4?v<0*s^^ 


Biwabik 


Arrowhead  Tour  £ 

Railroad  station:     Duluth,  Missabe  &  Iron  Range,  south  end  Shaw  Ave. 

Bus  station:    Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  Main  St.  bet.  Canton  and  Cincinnati  Aves. 

Accommodations:     Municipal  tourist  camp,  State  35,  0.5  mile  E. 

Information  sen/ice:     Village  Hall,  Main  St.  bet.  Chicago  and  Canton  Aves. 

Golf:    Esquagama  Club  (open  to  public),  Esquagama  Lake  Rd.,  6.6  miles  S.;  18  holes. 

Swimming:     Municipal  beach,  municipal  tourist  camp. 

Tennis:     Horace  Mann  High  and  Washington  Grade  Schools,  2nd  St.  bet.  Canton  and 

Cincinnati  Aves. 

Rifle  range:     Biwabik  Rifle  Range,  Co.  Rd.  4,  2  miles  S. 

Annual  event  (exact  dates  very):     Potato  Show,  September. 


OLDEST  VILLAGE  OF  THE  MESABI 

Biwabik  (1,448  alt.,  1,304  pop.),  eclipsing  some  of  the  older  range 
settlements  and  being  eclipsed  by  some  of  the  newer,  has  a  virtual  monopoly 
on  Mesabi  "firsts."  Its  name  is  an  Ojibway  term  meaning  "valuable," 
applied  to  iron  ore  by  the  Indians  as  mining  developed. 

In  the  valley  of  the  historic  Embarrass  River,  traveled  by  Indians  and 
fur  traders  (see  Embarrass),  the  site  of  the  village  evidently  was  an  Indian 
camping  ground,  as  several  mounds  near  by  would  indicate.  In  1865-66, 
prospectors  rushing  to  the  reputed  gold  fields  of  the  Lake  Vermilion  dis- 


82  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

trict  visited  the  site,  for  the  famous  Vermilion  Trail  passed  through  here. 
The  "gold  rush"  was  succeeded  by  the  search  for  iron  ore  and  the  de- 
velopment of  mines  on  the  Vermilion  Range;  explorations,  however,  did 
not  extend  to  this  section  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  Mesabi,  and  the  Biwabik 
deposits  lay  dormant  for  a  few  years  more. 

In  1891,  one  of  the  Merritt  parties  (see  Mountain  Iron)  was  fme-conibing 
the  Biwabik  district.  While  Indians  were  encamped  about  the  location,  watch- 
ing proceedings  with  interest,  a  thrill  of  excitement  spread.  The  miners  had 
turned  up  high-grade  blue  ore  at  what  later  became  the  Biwabik  Mine 
(north  end  Cincinnati  Ave.).  Samples  were  sent  to  Duluth  on  sleds. 
Almost  simultaneously,  ore  was  discovered  at  near-by  locations,  now  the 
Cincinnati  (part  of  the  Biwabik),  and  the  Hale  and  Kanawha  mines  (both 
abandoned).  A  town  site  was  platted  on  Embarrass  Lake,  between  the 
Biwabik  and  Hale  mines,  and  named  Merritt  for  the  pioneers. 

Mining  developed  and  other  town  sites  were  platted,  among  them  one 
just  north  of  the  Biwabik  Mine  and  a  mile  west  of  Merritt.  This  was  the 
embryo  Biwabik.  Its  first  supplies  were  carried  from  Mesaba  Station,  the 
nearest  railroad  point,  about  ten  miles  away.  A  story  is  told  that  a  raft 
was  floated  down  the  Embarrass  River  from  Tower  to  carry  Biwabik's 
first  beer.  In  comparison  with  Merritt,  Biwabik  grew  slowly;  nonetheless, 
by  September,  1892,  it  was  incorporated  as  a  village. 

In  1893,  two  events  hastened  the  decline  of  Merritt  and  the  rise  of 
Biwabik:  the  Mesabi  Range  branch  of  the  Duluth  and  Iron  Range  Railroad 
ran  its  line  to  Biwabik,  and  Merritt  practically  was  destroyed  by  fire.  All 
the  inhabitants  moved  to  Biwabik.  As  in  other  range  towns,  men  from 
many  different  nations  came  to  earn  a  living  from  the  mines. 

Biwabik  was  the  first  of  the  now  existing  Mesabi  Range  towns  to  be 
incorporated  as  a  village,  the  first  to  be  served  by  two  railroads  (the 
Duluth,  Missabe  and  Northern  and  the  Duluth  and  Iron  Range  vied  in 
extending  their  lines  to  the  rich  mines);  it  had  the  first  large  mine  on  the 
Mesabi  (the  Biwabik),  which  was  the  first  to  be  leased  to  an  outside 
furnace  (see  The  Iron  Ore  Ranges),  and  was  the  first  to  use  a  steam  shovel 
in  mining  operations. 

The  only  mine  that  has  been  working  steadily  in  the  last  few  years 
is  the  Biwabik,  an  open  pit.  With  the  shut-down  of  some  of  the  mines, 
many  miners  turned  to  farming.  Nationally  known  certified  seed  potatoes 
are  grown  around  Biwabik.  Dairying  is  carried  on  in  the  surrounding 
territory. 

The  town  has  two  schools,  with  24  teachers  and  300  pupils.  Horace 
Mann  High  and  Washington  Grade  schools  are  equipped  with  a  particularly 
fine  swimming  pool.  Near-by  Esquagama  Lake  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  4) 
offers  facilities  for  all  water  sports  and  outdoor  recreation. 


BLACKDUCK  83 

t*&^0r*^ry<<0rv<<0>*^*<^<s0rx^r#J0r^ 


Blackduck 


Arrowhead  Tour  8. 

Railroad  station:     Minnesota  &  International,  Railroad  Ave.  bet.  2nd  and  3rd  Sts.  E. 

Bus  station:     Northern  Transportation  Co.,  Main  St.  bet.  Summit  and  Margaret  Aves. 

Accommodations:     One  hotel;  municipal  tourist  camp,  Pine  Tree  Park,  Blackduck  Lake 

Rd.,  2.6  miles  S.  W.,  on  lake  shore. 

Information  service:     Village  Hall,  cor.  Margaret  Ave.  and  Main  St. 

Swimming:     Municipal  beach,  Pine  Tree  Park. 

Tennis:     Blackduck  Independent  School   60    (municipal),  Margaret  Ave.  bet.    ist  and 

2nd  Sts.  E. 


A  HUNTER'S  RENDEZVOUS 

Blackduck  (1,404  alt.,  753  pop.),  the  most  northern  point  in  the  Paul 
Bunyan  Playground,  Blackduck  Lake  and  Blackduck  River  took  their  name 
from  a  species  of  duck  common  throughout  the  State. 

A  prehistoric  Indian  village  once  stood  on  the  shores  of  Blackduck 
Lake,  and  some  of  the  early  fur  traders  may  have  visited  this  area,  por- 
taging over  the  Continental  Divide,  then  traveling  north  on  the  Blackduck 
River. 

The  village  developed  as  the  center  of  a  lumbering  district  about  1900. 
Pine,  cedar,  and  balsam  attracted  many  loggers,  and  sawmills  were  built. 
The  Minneapolis  Cedar  and  Lumber  Company  in  1903  operated  a  plant 
that  sawed  lumber  and  made  ties  and  cedar  posts.  The  Stoner  Lath  and 
Lumber  Company  was  established  in  1919;  its  mill,  with  a  capacity  of 
100,000  feet  in  ten  hours,  specialized  in  balsam  lath. 

With  the  decline  of  the  lumber  industry,  Blackduck  turned  to  agricul- 
ture. The  deep  black  and  sandy  loam  soils  proved  suitable  for  diversified 
farming,  and  settlers  took  up  land.  Dairying  and  poultry  and  cattle  raising 
developed.  Blackduck's  cooperative  creamery,  the  oldest  one  in  Beltrami 
County,  was  established  in  1915  and  ten  years  later  had  200  patrons. 
In  1927,  it  constructed  at  a  cost  of  $12,000  a  modern  brick  and  concrete 
plant,  where  annually  400,000  pounds  of  butter  are  produced.  Blackduck 
is  a  shipping  point  for  dairy  products,  livestock,  clover  seed,  flax,  and  other 
farm  produce. 

Tourist  trade  is  becoming  important.  The  village  is  situated  at  the 
northwest  corner  of  the  Chippewa  National  Forest,  and  adjacent  to  it  is  the 
75,732-acre  Blackduck  State  Forest,  established  in  1935.  Approximately 
5,245  acres  of  the  latter  wilderness  are  covered  by  water.  Game,  especially 
bear,  deer,  ducks  and  partridge,  being  plentiful,  hunters  come  to  Blackduck 
in  great  numbers  during  the  hunting  season. 

Blackduck  Independent  School  60  is  a  three-story  brick  building  that 
has  facilities  for  grade  and  high  school  pupils.  The  Village  Hall  houses 


84  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

the  fire  department,  regarded  as  the  most  modern  in  any  town  of  equal 
size  in  the  State. 

Such  rapid  strides  have  been  made  by  the  community  that  it  claims  to 
be  the  "livest  small  town  in  the  Northwest." 


C^*£>*<?'X^<^A<9'X^?%^*^^X^C^^^ 


Bovey 


Arrowhead  Tour  2. 

Railroad  station:     Duluth,  Missabe  &  Iron  Range,  and  Great  Northern  (freight  only), 

Scenic  Highway  bet.  4th  and  5th  Aves. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  cor.  3rd  Ave.  and  2nd  St. 

Accommodations:     Two  hotels;  municipal  tourist  camp,  Scenic  Highway  bet.  4th  and 

5th  Aves.,  to  Scenic  State  Park. 

Information  service:     Whitmas  Hotel,  cor.  and  Ave.  and  and  St. 

Tennis:     School  Gardens  (municipal),  cor.  3rd  Ave.  and  4th  St. 

Annual  event  (exact  dates  vary):     Bovey  Farmers'  Day,  September. 


FIRST  VILLAGE  OF  THE  CANISTEO  DISTRICT 


Bovey  (1,354  a^->  I?355  P°P-)  was  t^ie  ^rst  village  in  the  Canisteo  Dis- 
trict, a  region  of  sandy  ore  on  the  western  Mesabi  Range  (see  Coleraine; 
Calumet;  Marble). 

By  the  time  it  was  settled,  lumbering  activities  had  denuded  a  large 
part  of  the  wilderness.  The  discovery  of  the  Mesabi  was  a  familiar  story, 
mining  operations  having  been  extended  as  far  west  as  Hibbing.  The  dis- 
trict's nearest  railroad  station  was  Grand  Rapids,  from  which  teams  could 
get  only  as  far  as  the  site  of  the  present  Bovey,  which  soon  became  head- 
quarters and  source  of  supplies  for  exploration  parties. 

The  town  grew  and  was  incorporated  as  a  village  in  1904.  Businessmen 
and  storekeepers  from  Grand  Rapids,  eager  for  a  new  and  fertile  field, 
moved  in,  and  the  settlement  further  grew  in  1907,  when  the  Oliver  Iron 
Mining  Company's  experiments  in  ore  washing  proved  successful.  The 
Canisteo  Mine  (west  end  2nd  St.),  from  which  the  district  took  its  name, 
was  opened,  followed  shortly  by  the  Orwell  (inactive).  Then  the  Duluth, 
Missabe  &  Northern  Railroad  was  extended  to  the  village.  The  population 
now  numbered  1,200. 

The  Bovey  School  (cor.  5th  Ave.  and  3rd  St.),  a  $40,000  brick  structure 
erected  in  1906  and  remodeled  in  1919,  and  the  new  $75,000  Village  Hall 
erected  in  1934  denote  the  village's  development. 

Bovey  's  principal  sources  of  income  are  the  Canisteo,  the  Danube,  and 
the  Harrison  mines,  operated  by  three  different  companies.  Recently  it  has 
become  the  center  of  a  growing  agricultural  region  with  a  large  cooperative 
creamery. 


BRAINERD  85 

Bovey  is  so  close  to  Coleraine  that  the  two  have  common  trade  and 

other  interests,  including  recreational  facilities.  It  is  the  gateway  to  the 
beautiful  Scenic  State  Park. 


<*0r*^0r*j0^0V^*s0r*J0f*^0r*'^^ 


Brainerd 


Arrowhead  Tour  3. 

Railroad  station:     Northern  Pacific,  and  Minnesota  &  International,  102  N.  6th  St. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  320  S.  6th  St. 

Local  bus  line:     Brainerd  Bus  Line,  310  G  St.  N.E.  and  1324  Mill  Ave.  N.E.,  offers 

service  bet.  northeast  and  southeast  Brainerd. 

Airport:     Municipal,  i3th  St.  S.,  1.25  miles  S.;  hangar,  2  runways,  service  available. 

Taxis:     Two  cab  companies  offer  service  within  city  limits  and  to  surrounding  territory. 

Accommodations:     Seven  hotels;  municipal  tourist  camp,  cor.  Chippewa  and  Laurel  Sts. 

Information  service:     Brainerd  Civic  Association;  Junior  Chamber  Tourist  Bureau. 

Golf:     Brainerd  Country  Club  (open  to  public),  US  371,  2  miles  W.;  9  holes. 

Swimming:     Municipal  beach,  Lum  Lake,  junction  US  210  and  I4th  Ave.  N.E. 

Tennis:     Gregory   Park,    400    N.    6th    St.;    Whittier   School,   715    Holly   St.;    Harrison 

School,  1515  E.  Oak  St.;  Lincoln  School,  606  S.  6th  St. 


PAUL  BUNYAN'S  CAPITAL 

Brainerd  (1,213  a^'»  12,071  pop.),  Crow  Wing  County  seat,  is  the 
home  of  the  Northern  Pacific's  largest  shops. 

In  1870,  the  shining  ribbon  of  Northern  Pacific  tracks  crept  across  the 
State,  connecting  Duluth  and  Staples.  Surveyors  chose  the  site  of  the 
present  Brainerd  for  the  railroad  to  cross  the  Mississippi.  A  town  was 
platted  in  1871  by  the  Lake  Superior  and  Puget  Sound  Company.  When 
the  question  of  naming  the  rapidly  growing  settlement  arose,  the  Indians 
favored  Ogemagua,  meaning  "queen"  or  "chief  woman,"  in  honor  of 
Emma  Beaulieu,  a  beautiful  woman  of  that  region.  The  president  of  the 
Northern  Pacific,  however,  wanted  his  wife's  maiden  name,  Brainerd, 
memorialized.  Brainerd  it  became,  though  the  Indians  referred  to  it  as 
Osfy-odena,  "new  town."  The  first  train,  a  special,  reached  the  village 
March  n,  1871,  but  it  was  not  until  September  that  regular  service  was 
established. 

Early  descriptions  tell  of  stands  of  virgin  pine  that  bordered  the  Missis- 
sippi River.  Nothing  was  more  natural,  therefore,  than  the  rise  of  the 
lumber  industry,  and  men  from  the  East,  especially  Maine  and  New  Bruns- 
wick, came  to  work  and  settle  here.  Brainerd  grew  so  rapidly  that  in  1873 
it  was  incorporated  as  a  city.  Like  other  thriving  communities  throughout 
the  country,  it  was  caught  in  the  financial  panic.  The  population  decreased 
to  less  than  one-half,  the  Northern  Pacific  closed  its  shops,  and  in  1876  the 
city  charter  was  revoked  and  Brainerd  was  ruled  by  township  government. 


86  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

For  ten  years,  the  pioneers  suffered  the  after-effects  of  the  crash.  Even 
Fate  seemed  against  them.  A  shipment  of  food  that  somehow  had  been 
procured  was  "cast  upon  the  waters"  of  the  Mississippi  when  a  bridge 
collapsed,  and  as  much  as  could  be  salvaged  was  purloined  by  the  Indians. 
Returning  prosperity  brought  a  boom  to  the  town,  and,  in  1881,  when  the 
population  was  14,000 — the  largest  Brainerd  ever  has  known — it  was 
reincorporated  as  a  city.  In  1883,  the  Northern  Pacific  completed  its  line 
to  the  Pacific  Coast.  Railroad  men  went  back  to  work,  and  lumbering 
prospered. 

During  the  next  few  decades,  the  lumber  industry  saw  its  heyday. 
City  and  county  bonded  themselves  heavily  to  induce  a  lumber  company 
to  put  up  a  sawmill.  The  expansion  demanded  a  branch  railroad  to  haul 
pulpwood  to  mills  and  finished  products  to  market,  so  in  1892  the  Brainerd 
and  Northern  was  built,  extending  northwest  and  terminating  so  casually 
no  one  knew  where.  In  1894,  its  tracks  were  relaid  and  extended  to 
Hubert,  and,  in  1898,  it  was  reorganized  as  the  Minnesota  and  Inter- 
national. As  such,  a  branch  of  the  Northern  Pacific,  it  operates  today 
between  Brainerd  and  the  Canadian  border.  The  depletion  of  the  forests 
was  followed  by  the  discovery  of  iron  ore  in  Crow  Wing  County,  in  which 
the  entire  active  Cuyuna  Range  lies  (see  Crosby). 

None  of  the  hardships  and  turmoil  of  its  history  is  reflected  in  present- 
day  Brainerd.  Its  well-kept  wide  streets,  modern  public  buildings,  attrac- 
tive parks,  and  progressive  industries  are  worthy  of  a  much  larger  town. 

Railroading,  which  gave  Brainerd  its  birth,  still  is  its  leading  industry. 
The  Northern  Pacific  shops  (cor.  A  and  3rd  Aves.  N.E.),  the  largest  in 
the  system,  consist  of  a  roundhouse  and  machine,  boiler,  blacksmith,  tin, 
and  car  shops.  As  many  as  ten  freight  cars  a  day  have  been  made  in  the 
shops.  In  West  Brainerd  is  the  Northern  Pacific  Tie  Plant  (cor.  Florence 
and  loth  sts.  S.W.)  where  railroad  ties  and  other  timber  products  are 
given  preservative  treatment  with  creosote. 

The  Northwest  Paper  Company's  mill  on  the  south  side  (north  and 
4th  Ave.  N.E.)  began,  in  1935,  to  make  wallpaper  and,  today,  is  one  of  the 
few  such  concerns  in  the  State.  Brainerd  is  the  major  trade  center  for 
Crow  Wing  County,  and  dairy  products  are  handled  by  four  creameries. 
A  sash  and  door  factory,  a  garment  factory,  a  foundry,  a  bottling  works, 
and  other  smaller  industries  employ  many  workers.  On  the  east  bank  of 
the  river  (Emma  St.  bet.  Park  and  Jenny  Sts.)  are  the  $300,000  power 
distribution  plant  and  the  $700,000  municipal  water  plant  with  its  $62,000 
demanganization  plant.  The  latter,  designed  by  Carl  Zappfe,  manager  of 
iron-ore  properties  for  the  Northern  Pacific,  and  built  in  1932-33,  removes 
iron  and  manganese  from  the  water. 

Brainerd  has  fine  schools,  including  the  Washington  Senior  and  Junior 
High  (810  Oak  St.),  built  in  1929  at  a  cost  of  $450,000,  and  the  Franklin 
Junior  High  (302  N.  loth  St.),  built  in  1932  for  $225,000.  Special  courses 
are  offered  in  the  Normal  Department  of  the  Franklin  School,  where  a 
large  number  of  pupils  take  post-graduate  work.  With  funds  provided  by 
the  Carnegie  Foundation,  this  school  at  one  time  offered  classes  in  pre- 
parental  education — one  of  the  pioneer  experiments  in  this  field. 


BUHL  87 

The  Crow  Wing  County  Courthouse  (326  Laurel  St.)  houses  the  Crow 
Wing  County  Historical  Society  Museum,  considered  one  of  the  most 
complete  of  its  kind  in  Minnesota.  It  contains  Indian  relics  and  handi- 
crafts, a  complete  outfit  of  logging  tools  or  1870,  and  pioneer  farm  tools 
and  photographs.  The  Public  Library  (206  N.  7th  St.),  built  in  1904  with 
a  $12,000  gift  from  Andrew  Carnegie,  is  housed  in  a  $25,000  building  and 
possesses  14,000  volumes.  Brainerd's  Armory  (cor.  5th  and  Laurel  Sts.), 
erected  by  the  Works  Progress  Administration  at  a  cost  of  $95,000,  has  one 
of  the  largest  assembly  halls  in  this  part  of  the  State.  The  Post  Office 
(403  S.  6th  St.),  valued  at  $75,000,  and  City  Hall  (509  Laurel  St.),  with 
the  same  valuation,  are  modern  structures. 

State  Forestry  Service  District  Four,  which  embraces  approximately 
2,000,000  acres  divided  into  six  patrol  districts,  maintains  headquarters  in 
Brainerd.  To  the  north  (on  US  371,  adjoining  the  Brainerd  Country  Club) 
is  the  Crow  Wing  State  Forest.  This  forest  and  the  adjoining  Mille  Lacs 
and  Bay  Lake  State  forests  cover  a  total  of  229,000  acres. 

Brainerd  is  the  hub  of  a  region  that  contains  approximately  500  lakes, 
offering  good  fishing,  canoeing,  motorboating,  and  other  types  of  recreation. 
There  are  more  than  400  resorts,  most  of  them  with  facilities  for  golf, 
horseback  riding,  tennis  and  archery;  many  remain  open  in  the  winter, 
and  seasonal  sports  are  very  popular,  particularly  hunting.  Annually  in 
July,  the  fabulous  Paul  Bunyan  holds  sway  for  one  week  while  citizens 
frolic.  The  men  in  and  near  Brainerd  raise  luxuriant  beards  to  add  a 
touch  of  realism  to  the  occasion,  and  the  program  includes  athletic  con- 
tests, log-rolling,  chopping,  and  sawing,  canoe  tilting,  parades,  and  a  sports- 
men's show.  The  festival  attracted  80,000  visitors  in  one  year. 


c<^*^.^v^<^x<?^'x^<^x4?^<?^^ 


Buhl 


Arrowhead  Tour  2. 

Railroad  stations:     Duluth,  Missabe  &  Iron  Range,  US   169;   Great  Northern   (freight 

only),  north  end  Forest  St. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  State  St.  bet.  Jones  and  Mercer  Aves. 

Accommodations:     Two  hotels;  municipal  tourist  camp,  US  169,  0.25  mile  S. 

Information  service:     Village  Hall,  cor.  Jones  Ave.  and  Forest  St. 

Tennis:     Municipal  court,  State  St.  bet.  Mercer  and  Pennsylvania  Aves. 

Curling:     Buhl  Curling  Club,  cor.  Jones  Ave.  and  Mine  St. 


SPRINGS  OF  HEALTH  AND  PITS  OF  WEALTH 

Buhl  (1,500  alt.,  1,600  pop.),  one  of  the  progressive  smaller  mining 
communities  of  the  western  Mesabi,  might  well  have  a  Town  Pump,  for 


THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD     COUNTRY 

it  boasts  the  "best  drinking  water  in  the  United  States,"  and,  from  reports 
of  visitors,  it  is  undoubtedly  justified. 

Although  mining  operations  had  begun  on  the  western  Mesabi  in  1890, 
the  iron-ore  fever  did  not  reach  the  vicinity  of  Buhl  until  some  time  later. 
Logging  operations  began  in  1898,  and  in  1900  timber  cruisers  and  loggers 
still  were  working  in  the  region's  stands  of  white  and  Norway  pine.  As 
they  cleared  the  way,  iron-ore  prospectors  appeared,  and,  in  March,  1900, 
the  Sharon  Ore  Company  platted  the  4o-acre  town  site  that  was  recorded 
as  the  "Plat  of  Buhl,"  in  honor  of  Frank  H.  Buhl,  a  former  president  of 
the  company.  The  new  town  was  given  encouragement  when  the  Great 
Northern  Railroad  extended  its  line  from  Swan  River.  In  1901,  Buhl  was 
incorporated  as  a  village. 

Mining  forged  ahead  as  the  chief  industry.  Men  from  many  countries 
came  to  work  in  the  mines,  and  today  ten  nationalities  are  represented. 
Of  the  foreign-born,  Yugoslavs,  Scandinavians,  and  Italians  predominate. 
There  are  eight  mines,  most  of  them  open  pits.  Only  one,  the  Grant  Mine, 
is  operating  at  present. 

The  largest  mine,  the  Wabigon  (inactive),  holds  a  record  of  low-cost 
operation.  In  three  seasons,  it  was  stripped  of  the  overburden  and  500,000 
tons  of  ore  by  electric  drag  lines,  with  an  average  daily  crew  of  five  men, 
each  handling  approximately  250  tons  per  day.  This  was  the  first  open  pit 
on  the  Mesabi  to  be  electrified,  and  its  shovel,  with  a  dipper  capacity  of 
14  tons,  was  the  largest  ever  used  in  an  open  pit. 

In  recent  years,  many  of  the  miners  have  begun  to  farm,  and  much 
dairying  is  carried  on  in  the  surrounding  area. 

With  the  money  derived  from  its  mineral  wealth,  Buhl  has  erected 
modern  municipal  buildings  and  installed  excellent  public  utilities.  The 
Martin  Hughes  High  School  (cor.  Jones  Ave.  and  Wanless  St.)  is  an 
imposing  structure.  The  central  part  was  constructed  in  1911,  and  the 
two  wings  in  1918;  the  total  cost  was  $1,750,000.  The  Martin  Hughes 
High  School  is  under  the  jurisdiction  of  School  District  35,  which  includes 
Kinney  (see  Kinney),  employs  40  teachers,  and  has  an  enrollment  of  900. 

The  Fire  Hall  (cor.  Johns  Ave.  and  Forest  St.),  of  brick  and  tile,  one 
of  the  least  expensive — it  cost  only  $32,000 — but  most  attractive  public 
buildings  in  Buhl,  also  serves  as  a  community  center  and  provides  public 
rest  rooms,  American  Legion  club  quarters,  Boy  Scout  rooms,  and  an 
auditorium. 

The  Public  Library  (Jones  Ave.  bet.  Franz  and  Sharon  Sts.)  was  built 
in  1917  of  tapestry  brick  with  terra  cotta  trimmings.  The  interior,  finished 
in  silver-gray  oak,  is  decorated  with  two  murals  by  Charles  Rosenkranz. 
The  library  owns  14,850  volumes  and  receives  85  periodicals,  and,  in  a 
district  with  a  population  of  but  2,000,  it  has  approximately  1,300  registered 
borrowers. 

The  Municipal  Power  Plant  (cor.  Jones  Ave.  and  Mine  St.)  furnishes 
water  and  light  and  heats  about  80  per  cent  of  the  buildings.  Its  pure, 
cold  water,  pumped  from  a  7oo-foot  well,  is  free  from  the  iron  taste  that 
is  characteristic  of  most  range  water.  St.  Louis  County  Dispensary  No.  2 
(Jones  Ave.  bet.  Sharon  and  Grant  Sts.),  built  by  Dr.  A.  W.  Shaw  and 


CALUMET  89 

later  bought  by  the  county,  distributes  medical  aid  to  the  needy,  but  only 
emergency  operations  are  performed. 

Rose  Tentoni,  a  soprano  with  the  Metropolitan  Opera  Company,  is  a 
native  of  Buhl. 


1j0rXs0^0r*s0rx^^A^^0>V<0r)^0rx^ 


Calumet 


Arrowhead  Tour  2. 

Railroad  station:     Duluth,  Missabe  &  Iron  Range,  and  Great  Northern,  4th  Ave.  bet. 

Gary  and  Morgan  Sts. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  cor.  US  169  and  Main  St. 

Accommodations:     Three  hotels. 

Information  service:     Bliss  Hotel,  cor.  Main  St.  and  ist  Ave. 

Golf:     Swan  Lake  Golf  Club  (open  to  public),  State  65,  5  miles  E.;  9  holes. 

Swimming:     Twin  Lakes  Beach  (municipal),  Twin  Lakes  Rd.,  2  miles  W. 


PIPE  OF  PEACE 

Calumet  (1,400  alt.,  946  pop.)  is  the  fourth  of  the  villages  in  the 
Canisteo  District. 

The  success  of  the  Oliver  Iron  Mining  Company's  washing  plant  at 
Coleraine  brought  about  the  development  of  ore  deposits  in  this  section. 
In  1908,  the  Hill  Mine  (abandoned)  was  opened,  and  near  it  the  Powers 
Improvement  Company  (Ribbing)  platted  the  town  site,  cut  and  graded 
streets,  and  constructed  a  hotel.  Lots  sold  quickly,  and  buyers,  representing 
all  trades,  began  to  erect  buildings.  Incorporated  as  a  village  in  1909,  its 
name  is  French  (from  the  Latin  calamus,  meaning  "reed"),  the  word  used 
for  the  Indian  peace  pipe. 

The  community's  chief  source  of  income  is  the  Hill-Annex  Mine, 
operated  on  a  State  lease  by  the  Inter-State  Iron  Company.  It  is  one  of 
the  largest  State-owned  mines  in  Minnesota  and  is  the  most  completely 
electrified  open  pit  in  the  Lake  Superior  District.  The  ore  is  dug  by 
electric  shovels  and  loaded  into  cars  pulled  by  electrically  driven  locomo- 
tives. Sight-seeing  facilities  have  been  provided.  A  two-unit  crushing  and 
screening  plant  is  operated  adjacent  to  the  mine. 

In  the  business  section,  which  is  several  blocks  long,  a  modern  pendant- 
type  white- way  system  was  installed  in  1939.  The  residential  district 
extends  almost  to  the  mining  property,  and  here  curbs,  gutters,  and  boule- 
vards were  built  in  1939.  In  that  same  year,  four  blocks  of  blacktop  streets 
were  added. 

Public  utilities  are  modern.  The  Village  Hall  (cor.  Main  St.  and  2nd 
Ave.)  is  constructed  of  light-tan  brick  in  a  modern  design,  and  the  Calumet 


90  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

School  (north  end  Main  St.),  up-to-date  in  every  respect,  accommodates 
pupils  from  the  village  and  near-by  mining  locations. 

Many  recreational  facilities  are  available  at  lakes  within  easy  driving 
distance. 


*&^^0^0*4?Vs&v4?V^r*s0r*^^^ 


Carlton 


Arrowhead  Tour  3. 

Railroad  station:     Great  Northern,  Northern  Pacific,  and  Chicago,  Milwaukee,  St.  Paul 

and  Pacific,  North  St.  bet.  Industrial  St.  and  Grand  Ave. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  cor.  Chestnut  and  N.  and  Sts. 

Accommodations:     Two  hotels;  2  sets  of  tourist  cabins. 

Information  service:     Village  Hall,  Chestnut  St.  bet.  N.  3rd  and  4th  Sts. 


BIRTHPLACE  OF  THE  NORTHERN  PACIFIC 

Carlton  (1,084  a^->  7°°  P°P-)>  Carlton  County  seat,  has  one  of  the  most 
interesting  backgrounds  of  all  the  villages  and  towns  in  the  Minnesota 
Arrowhead.  Chippewa  Indians  inhabited  the  region  at  the  time  the  site 
was  visited  by  fur  traders  who  traveled  up  the  St.  Louis  River. 

When  the  Military  Road  was  cut  from  St.  Paul  to  the  head  of  the 
lakes  in  1856,  several  town  sites  were  platted,  some  of  which  had  merely 
a  paper  existence,  while  others  endured  for  only  a  brief  time.  Among  the 
former  was  Komoko,  a  mile  west  of  the  present  Carlton. 

Then  came  1870,  a  momentous  year  for  the  entire  Arrowhead.  A  rail- 
road, the  Lake  Superior  and  Mississippi,  the  first  in  the  area,  had  been 
constructed  from  St.  Paul  to  Duluth  through  the  site  on  which  Carlton 
later  was  to  stand.  On  February  15,  a  group  of  heavily  bearded  men, 
including  many  notables,  stood  around  a  blazing  bonfire  at  Komoko. 
Exultation  and  satisfaction  glowed  on  their  faces.  In  fervid  oratory,  one 
after  another  depicted  the  fabulous  wealth  inevitable  now  that  the  head  of 
the  lakes  was  to  be  linked  with  the  "western  empire."  In  chorus  they 
praised  the  man  among  them  who  promised  to  make  their  fondest  dreams 
possible:  Jay  Cooke,  Philadelphia  financier,  "godfather"  to  the  Northern 
Pacific.  Had  not  he  floated  the  life-giving  bonds?  Had  not  he  arranged 
the  purchase  of  a  half-interest  in  that  section  of  the  Lake  Superior  and 
Mississippi's  line  from  Duluth  to  this  point?  When  the  oratory  had  spent 
itself,  officials  of  the  road  as  well  as  representatives  of  Duluth  and  Superior 
solemnly  dug  a  shovelful  of  dirt,  placed  it  in  a  barrow,  and  wheeled  it  to 
a  dumping  ground.  The  Northern  Pacific,  first  northern  transcontinental 
railroad,  was  born. 

These  railroads  opened  up  the  forests  of  white  pine,  and  sawmills  sprang 


(Left)  OUTDOORS  FOR  HEALTH. 
Outdoor  recreation  in  the  crisp, 
pine-scented  air  of  the  Arrow- 
head Country  brings  new  health 
to  winter  visitors. 


(Right)  MARIE  SARKI- 
PATO.  Blonde  Marie  is 
Ely's  veteran  guide  of 
the  Superior  National 
Forest.  In  the  Arrow- 
head Country  there  is 
no  "weaker  sex." 


(Above}     "MAYBE  I  BETTER  BE  COIN'!"    Nine  months  old 
black  bear  cub  in  the  Arrowhead  Country. 


(Below,  left}     WHITE  TAILED  DEER,  TAKEN  BY  SURPRISE. 


(Below,  right)     MONARCH  OF  THE  ARROWHEAD. 


CARLTON  91 

up  throughout  the  region.  One  was  near  the  junction  of  the  railroads, 
where  Carlton  now  stands,  and  about  it  a  settlement  grew.  It  was  first 
platted  as  Northern  Pacific  Junction.  It  showed  a  healthy  development 
and,  on  November  21,  1881,  it  was  incorporated  as  the  village  of  Carlton. 

In  the  latter  year,  Northern  Pacific  Junction  won  a  decisive  battle. 
Thomson  (see  Duluth  Tour  4)  had  been  the  seat  of  Carlton  County  since 
1870.  In  1886,  Northern  Pacific  Junction  started  a  petition  to  make  itself 
the  county  seat.  When  Cloquet  also  entered  a  claim,  a  three-way  fight 
ensued.  In  1889,  the  county  board  decided  to  make  a  change.  Since  the 
signatures  of  60  per  cent  of  the  voters  of  the  county  were  necessary, 
Northern  Pacific  Junction  appointed  Sheriff  Flynn,  one  of  its  citizens,  to 
obtain  them.  Flynn  had  two  advantages:  Northern  Pacific  Junction  already 
had  voted  a  $10,000  bond  issue  for  the  construction  of  a  new  courthouse; 
a  Cloquet  lumber  company  opposed  Cloquet's  becoming  a  county  seat  be- 
cause it  feared  this  would  raise  the  tax  rate.  The  signatures  were  obtained. 
Then  Thomson  sought  a  writ  to  restrain  action.  The  Northern  Pacific 
Junctionites,  however,  were  equal  to  the  occasion.  While  Thomson's 
attorney  was  at  St.  Paul,  they  hauled  the  county  records  and  safes  from 
Thomson  to  their  own  village  hall,  after  which  Flynn  lost  himself  in 
Duluth  so  he  would  not  be  available  to  serve  the  writ  when  issued.  This 
strategy  proved  unnecessary,  for  the  writ  was  denied,  and  without  further 
excitement  the  county  seat  was  changed  to  Northern  Pacific  Junction. 
Following  this  victory,  the  village  changed  its  name  to  Carlton  in  honor  of 
Reuben  B.  Carlton,  pioneer  of  Fond  du  Lac,  after  whom  the  county  also 
was  named. 

The  village  throve,  with  lumbering  and  railroading  its  chief  industries. 
When  lumbering  began  to  decline,  agriculture  superseded  it.  Railroading 
still  is  the  most  important  industry.  Both  the  Northern  Pacific  and  Great 
Northern  maintain  extensive  yards  here,  including  a  Northern  Pacific 
roundhouse. 

Carlton  County  Courthouse  (cor.  Walnut  and  N.  3rd  Sts.),  of  cream- 
colored  brick,  was  built  in  1922-23  at  a  cost  of  $250,000,  and  adjoins  the 
county  jail.  The  present  Village  Hall,  also  of  cream-colored  brick,  was 
completed  in  1937.  The  village  is  the  administration  center  for  Carlton 
County  School  District  No.  2.  Carlton  Grade  and  High  School  (cor. 
Walnut  and  N.  4th  Sts.)  cost  $140,000,  and  serves  the  educational  needs, 
not  only  of  the  village,  but  also  of  the  high  school  students  of  the  entire 
district,  as  far  east  as  Holyoke  and  as  far  south  as  Atkinson. 

A  wooden  arch  (junction  US  61  and  Chestnut  St.)  marks  the  upper 
entrance  to  Jay  Cooke  State  Park  (see  Duluth  Tour  4)>  a  scenic  area  of 
3,375  acres  that  offers  unusual  recreational  facilities. 


92  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

<<0Ks0*<G^K<0r**0r*.0K<0^0^0^ 


Cass  Lake 


Arrowhead  Tour  3. 

Railroad  stations:     Great  Northern,  cor.  5th  Ave.  and  ist  St.   (US  371);  Minneapolis, 
St.  Paul  &  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  3rd  Ave.  bet.  3rd  and  4th  Sts. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  Endion  Hotel,  cor.  2nd  Ave.  and  2nd  St. 
Accommodations:     Three  hotels;   public  campground — Norway  Beach,  Pike   Bay  Loop- 
Norway   Beach   Scenic   Drive,   3.5   miles   E.;    Ojibway   Beach,   Pike   Bay   Loop-Norway 
Beach  Scenic  Drive,  2  miles  S.E. 

Information  service:     Cass  Lake  Commercial  Club;  Junior  Chamber  of  Commerce. 
Golf:     Cass  Lake  Golf  Club  (open  to  public),  US  371,  2  blocks  W.;  9  holes. 
Swimming:     Norway  Beach  and  Ojibway  Beach  (municipal). 


PERMANENT  HOME  OF  THE  PINE 

Cass  Lake  (1,323  alt.,  1,904  pop.),  on  the  western  shore  of  Cass  Lake 
and  the  largest  community  in  Cass  County,  is  the  "capital  of  the  Chippewa 
Nation." 

The  Indian  name  for  the  lake  meant  "the-place-of-the-red-cedars,"  and 
the  first  whites  in  the  region  called  it  Upper  Red  Cedar  Lake.  Fur  traders 
reached  it  when  following  the  Mississippi  River  in  their  search  for  pelts, 
and  in  1794  Perrault  built  a  post  for  the  Northwest  Fur  Company  at  the 
entrance  of  the  Red  Cedar  River.  Although  technically  American  territory, 
the  region,  for  many  years,  was  dominated  by  the  English. 

The  search  for  the  source  of  the  Mississippi  brought  explorers,  and  in 
1820  the  Cass  Expedition,  headed  by  Territorial  Governor  Lewis  Cass  of 
Michigan,  who  was  visiting  all  the  Indian  tribes  under  his  jurisdiction, 
reached  Upper  Red  Cedar  Lake.  Henry  R.  Schoolcraft,  who  accompanied 
Cass,  did  not  agree  with  the  leader's  opinion  that  the  head  of  the  great 
river  was  Elk  Lake.  In  1832,  Schoolcraft  returned  with  his  own  expedition 
and  discovered  Lake  Itasca,  the  true  source;  he  renamed  Upper  Red  Cedar 
Lake  in  honor  of  Cass. 

Until  the  early  1850*5,  the  area  was  covered  with  dense  forests  of  pine, 
poplar,  oak,  cedar,  maple,  birch  and  spruce.  After  the  organization  of 
Cass  County  in  1851,  lumbermen  swarmed  in,  and  logging  camps  and  saw 
and  planing  mills  sprang  up.  The  Cass  Lake  Settlement  grew,  and  the  ar- 
rival of  the  Great  Northern  in  1898  hastened  the  platting  of  the  town  site 
in  1899.  The  coming  of  the  Minneapolis,  St.  Paul  and  Sault  Ste.  Marie 
Railroad  (Soo  Line)  in  1900  was  also  an  important  factor  in  the  develop- 
ment of  the  community. 

While  lumbering  was  the  community's  mainstay  for  decades,  with  a 
sawmill  and  crating  factory  still  operating,  farming  and  dairying  have  been 
developed  on  the  cut-over  lands.  Resorts,  recreational  facilities,  and  scenic 
beauty  attract  many  visitors  to  Cass  Lake. 

The  town  borders  the  Chippewa  National  Forest.     The  U.  S.  Forest 


CHISHOLM  93 

Service  Supervisors'  Building  (2nd  St.  bet.  6th  and  yth  Aves.)  is  a  three- 
story  log  structure  that  adjoins  the  U.  S.  Government  Nursery,  the  world's 
largest  pine  nursery  (1939),  supplying  64,000,000  seedlings  annually  to  the 
Chippewa  and  other  near-by  national  forests. 

Cass  Lake  village  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Consolidated  Chippewa 
Indian  Agency  (2nd  St.  bet.  Central  and  ist  Aves.)  that  has  jurisdiction 
over  seven  reservations,  five  of  which  are  in  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead: 
Leech  Lake  (see  Walter),  Fond  du  Lac,  Nett  Lake,  Vermilion  (see 
Tower),  and  Grand  Portage  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  1).  The  General 
Chippewa  Hospital  (US  371  and  US  2  bet.  3rd  and  4th  Aves.)  offers 
modern  surgical  and  other  medical  care  to  the  Indians. 

The  lake  (Cass),  six  miles  long  and  from  three  to  five  wide,  is  crossed 
by  US  2,  as  it  enters  the  village  from  the  east.  To  the  south  is  Pike  Bay, 
an  arm  of  the  lake.  Star  Island,  the  largest  of  several  islands  in  the  lake 
proper,  is  one  of  the  town's  most  interesting  scenic  and  recreational  spots. 
Shaped  like  a  star,  the  island  was  mapped  and  described  by  Schoolcraft, 
who  called  it  "Colcaspi"  in  honor  of  its  three  explorers  (Schoolcraft,  Cass, 
and  Pike).  In  the  middle  of  this  i,2oo-acre  island  and  surrounded  by  a 
forest  of  virgin  pine  is  Lake  Windigo,  formerly  the  domain  of  Chief  Yellow 
Head  (Ozawindib),  Schoolcraft's  guide,  whose  band  of  160  lived  on  the 
northeast  point,  now  O'Neil's  Point,  where  the  site  of  the  old  Indian 
village  is  visible. 


*4?*<0>*4™&>^*&<<&^0^0*&<<0^&^^ 


Chisholm 


Arrowhead  Tour  %. 

Railroad  station:     Duluth,  Missabe  &  Iron  Range,  cor.  6th  St.  S.W.  and  S.  ist  Ave.  S.W. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  Nelson  Hotel,  230  W.  Lake  St. 

Taxis:     Three  cab  lines  offer  services  within  city  limits  and  to  surrounding  territory. 

Accommodations:     Two    hotels;    municipal    tourist    camps — Chisholm    Memorial    Park, 

Lake  St.  (US  169),  2  blocks  W.;  Chisholm  City  Park,  east  end  Longyear  Lake. 

Information    service:     Chisholm    Tourist    Information    Bureau,    Chisholm    Community 

Bldg.,  316  W.  Lake  St. 

Recreational  facilities:     Chisholm  Community  Bldg. 

Golf:    Chisholm  Public  Golf  Course,  8th  Ave.  N.,  1.25  miles  N.W. 

Tennis:     Chisholm  Memorial   Park,  Independent  School  District  No.   40   Courts,   cor. 

ist  St.  S.W.  and  3rd  Ave.  W. 

Rifle  range:     Chisholm  Memorial  Park. 

Annual   events    (exact   dates    vary):     St.    Louis   County   Rural    Winter   Frolic,   March; 

Chisholm  Homecoming,  first  week  in   September;   Junior   Chamber   Trade  Exposition, 

November. 

WHERE  EVERYBODY  GOES  TO  SCHOOL 

Chisholm   (1,492  alt.,  7,487  pop.),  on  the  shores  of  Longyear  Lake, 
claims  to  be  the  geographical  center  of  the  Minnesota   Arrowhead,  the 


94  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

Continental  Divide  being  one  mile  north.  Chisholm  lays  proud  claim  to 
having  proportionately  the  highest  school  enrollment  of  any  community 
in  the  State. 

Frank  Hibbing  (see  Hibbing),  while  prospecting  on  the  Mesabi  Range, 
came  upon  a  lumber  camp  here  in  1891.  With  the  discovery  of  rich  iron- 
ore  deposits  in  1892,  the  site  took  on  dramatic  significance.  It  changed 
almost  over  night  into  an  unorganized  mining  community  and  remained 
such  for  nearly  a  decade,  during  which  neighboring  sections  were  bought 
by  explorers  and  businessmen.  Among  these  was  A.  M.  Chisholm  for 
whom  the  town  was  named. 

In  1901,  this  group  organized  the  Chisholm  Improvement  Company, 
platted  the  town  site  and  had  it  incorporated  as  a  village.  In  November, 
the  Chisholm  Herald  was  established  by  W.  E.  Talboys,  who  also  was 
Chisholm's  first  postmaster  and  mayor.  The  following  year,  Chisholm 
established  its  first  school,  a  frame  building,  and  employed  two  teachers. 
During  these  first  two  years,  the  Catholics  and  the  Methodists  erected  log 
churches,  the  Methodist  being  built  in  two  weeks  by  men  who  contributed 
their  labor.  In  six  years,  the  population  had  grown  to  almost  6,000,  and 
the  town  had  an  imposing  city  hall,  four  blocks  of  business  houses,  two 
banks,  an  electric-lighting  plant,  sewers,  two  weekly  newspapers;  and  it 
had  been  necessary  to  plat  two  more  residential  districts. 

On  September  5,  1908,  a  brush  fire  fanned  by  a  shifting  wind  swept 
down  upon  the  village.  In  what  seemed  but  a  few  minutes,  Chisholm 
was  practically  destroyed.  Fortunately  no  lives  were  lost,  and  rebuilding 
began  immediately.  Within  nine  months,  70  fireproof  brick  buildings  had 
been  constructed  as  well  as  a  municipal  water  plant  and  five  miles  of  mains. 
Within  a  year  the  town  again  was  flourishing,  its  population  growing 
steadily.  Chisholm  became  a  city  in  1934. 

Forty-five  mines,  five  of  them  now  active,  have  shipped  ore  from  the 
district.  The  largest  is  the  Godfrey  (Godfrey  Rd.,  0.25  mile  south),  an 
underground;  the  Shenango,  with  a  maximum  depth  of  400  feet,  is  the 
deepest  open-pit  iron  mine  in  the  world.  Next  to  mining,  the  chief  source 
of  revenue  is  dairying,  an  independently  owned  creamery  providing  an 
outlet  for  the  dairy  farms  in  the  vicinity. 

As  high  as  46  per  cent  of  the  total  population  has  made  use  of  Chis- 
holm's educational  facilities  at  one  time.  The  Senior  High,  of  iron-spot 
brick  and  white  Bedford  stone,  the  Junior  High,  of  soft-toned  brick  in 
Tudor-Gothic  design,  and  the  Washington  Grade,  of  pressed  brick  and 
Superior  sandstone,  all  on  the  main  campus  (cor.  3rd  St.  S.W.  and  3rd 
Ave.  S.W.),  are  among  the  most  elaborate  school  buildings  in  the 
Arrowhead. 

Chisholm's  foreign  born,  of  whom  Yugoslavs,  Finns,  and  Italians  pre- 
dominate numerically,  have  had  a  profound  influence  upon  the  city's  de- 
velopment. With  the  aim  of  speeding  Americanization,  the  schools  have 
placed  much  emphasis  upon  English  and  reading  courses;  their  work  along 
these  lines  has  attracted  educators  throughout  the  country.  The  schools 
also  are  keenly  interested  in  discovering  and  fostering  latent  talent.  Hun- 
dreds of  pupils  receive  instruction  in  instrumental  music,  for  which  special 


CLOQUET  95 

teachers  are  provided.  Forensic  and  other  teams  repeatedly  have  won 
State  and  district  championships. 

The  Chisholm  Public  Library  (300  W.  Lake  St.)  has  one  of  the  largest 
collections  of  foreign-language  books  in  northern  Minnesota,  with  ten 
tongues  represented.  The  only  Serbian  Orthodox  Church  in  the  Arrow- 
head outside  of  Duluth  is  St.  Vasselj  (cor.  W.  3rd  St.  S.W.  and  3rd  Ave.). 
The  Chisholm  Community  Band  gives  concerts  twice  a  week  in  City  Park 
during  the  summer.  Numerous  district  contests  and  four  State  champion- 
ships have  been  won  by  the  Chisholm  Drum  and  Bugle  Corps. 

Chisholm  City  Park  has  a  bathing  beach  and  a  small  zoo.  Chisholm 
Memorial  Park  provides  complete  recreational  facilities. 


Cloquet 


Arrowhead  "Tour  4- 

Railroad  station:     Great  Northern,  and  Northern  Pacific,  north  end  Arch  St.   (Union 

Station). 

Bus  stations:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  218  Arch  St.;  1108  Cloquet  Ave. 

Airport:     Municipal,  old  State  Forestry  Rd.,  2.5  miles  S.W.;  two  2,5oo-foot  runways, 

boundary  markers,   no  hangar;   no   servicing;    fuel   and   oil   available   by   telephoning 

Cloquet. 

Taxis:     Two  cab  lines  offer  service  within  city  limits  and  to  surrounding  territory. 

Accommodations:     Four  hotels. 

Information  service:     Cloquet  Commercial  Club,  124  C  Ave. 

Recreational  facilities:     Civic  Recreational  Center,  508  Cloquet  Ave. 

Golf:     Cloquet  Golf  Club  (open  to  public),  west  end  Laurel  St.;  9  holes. 

Tennis:     Court  adjacent  to  Civic  Recreational  Center. 

Rifle  range:    Cloquet  Gun  Club,  south  foot  2nd  St. 


MODERN  PHOENIX 

Cloquet  (1,189  alt.,  7>3°4  P°P-)>  the  largest  municipality  and  only  city 
in  Carlton  County,  was  built  on  the  ashes  of  a  sawmill  town  at  the  rapids 
of  the  St.  Louis  River  and  named  for  a  tributary  of  that  stream.  Its  main 
industry  is  the  manufacture  of  wood  products  (see  International  Falls). 

The  fur  traders'  route  from  the  head  of  Lake  Superior  to  northern  and 
western  posts  passed  through  the  site  of  the  town  (see  Flood  wood).  Long 
before  a  village  was  platted,  lumbermen  had  been  attracted  by  the  potential 
water  power  of  the  St.  Louis  River  and  had  established  a  lumber  camp  in 
the  coniferous  forests.  A  sawmill  was  hauled  here  in  1870,  and  one  was 
built  in  1878,  by  Charles  D.  Harwood,  above  the  big  falls  at  Thomson 
(see  Duluth  Tour  4). 

Settlements  grew  around  the  mills,  and  in  1880  one  was  platted  under 
the  name  of  Knife  Falls.  When  the  plats  were  filed  in  1883,  the  name  was 


96  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

changed  to  Cloquet.  At  the  time  of  its  organization  the  following  year, 
two  lumber  companies  owned  every  building  in  the  village.  Interested 
only  in  white  pine,  the  lumbermen  first  operated  close  to  the  streams  beside 
which  they  had  placed  their  sawmills,  then  built  roads  and  railroads  farther 
and  farther  into  the  forests. 

Gradually  uses  were  found  for  other  varieties  of  wood,  and  by  1900  a 
paper  mill  was  erected.  Cloquet  was  in  the  path  of  the  great  forest  fire 
of  October  12,  1918  {see  Moose  Lal(e),  which  devastated  much  of  Carl  ton 
and  St.  Louis  counties.  The  fire,  whipped  by  a  yo-mile  gale,  advanced 
with  incredible  speed,  burning  an  area  of  approximately  1,500  square  miles. 
More  than  400  persons  perished,  and  the  property  loss  was  estimated  at 
$25,000,000.  Although  Cloquet  was  destroyed  completely,  quick  action  by 
railroad  officials  and  others  saved  the  lives  of  all  but  five  persons  in  the 
city.  Undaunted  by  the  catastrophe,  Cloquet  began  at  once  to  rebuild, 
and  today  a  modern,  attractive  city  stands  on  the  ashes  of  the  old  Cloquet. 

The  fire  changed  the  course  of  local  industries.  Constant  cutting  had 
pushed  the  forests  back  so  far  that  hauling  was  expensive,  and  the  holocaust 
had  destroyed  great  areas  of  standing  timber.  By  this  time,  manufacturing 
interests  were  developing  processes  to  utilize  wood  hitherto  considered 
waste,  and  Cloquet  turned  to  the  manufacture  of  wood  products. 

In  the  Wood  Conversion  Company's  plant  (cor.  Arch  St.  and  A  Ave.; 
visiting  hours:  daily  10:50  a.  m.  and  3:00  p.  m.,  Sat.  10:30  a.  m.)  Balsam 
Wool,  Nu-Wood,  and  other  insulating  materials  are  made.  The  first  steps 
in  the  manufacture  are  much  the  same  as  in  making  paper.  The  fibrous 
material  is  fire-proofed,  dried,  then  put  through  forming,  drying,  and 
finishing  machines.  For  Balsam  Wool,  the  fibers  are  shredded  and  dried 
again  and  blown  through  cement-laden  air  onto  a  moving  screen,  where 
they  form  a  mat  half  an  inch  thick  that  finally  is  covered  with  water- 
proofed kraft  paper. 

The  Northwest  Paper  Company  (east  end  Arch  St.;  visiting  hours: 
daily  9:30  to  10:30  a.  m.,  and  2:30  to  3:30  p.  m.)  is  one  of  the  largest,  most 
complete  and  progressive  mills  of  its  kind  in  the  United  States.  In  1938, 
it  produced  all  the  paper  used  in  postage  stamps  up  to  the  i5-cent  denomi- 
nation. In  normal  times,  more  than  1,000  persons  are  employed  in  the 
making  of  book,  ledger,  drawing,  writing,  and  bond  paper.  Surplus  pulp 
is  sent  to  other  paper  mills. 

The  Berst-Forster-Dixfield  Company  (cor.  Cloquet  Ave.  and  i8th  St.; 
no  visitors)  manufactures  clothespins,  matches,  and  toothpicks  {see  Deer 
River). 

Saw  and  planing  mills  of  the  Northwest  Company  (Information:  Gen- 
eral Office,  cor.  Arch  St.  and  C  Ave.)  finish  most  of  the  lumber  used  in 
the  Cloquet  plants. 

Dairying  is  advancing  rapidly,  and  many  creameries  have  been  estab- 
lished. The  Cloquet  Cooperative  Society  operates  one  of  the  largest  co- 
operative retail  stores  in  North  America. 

The  Cloquet  Ranger  Station,  serving  District  Three,  patrols  the  northern 
half  of  Carlton  County  and  the  southern  half  of  St.  Louis  County.  Estab- 
lished in  1911  with  a  single  tower,  at  the  present  site  of  the  University  of 


COLERAINE  97 

Minnesota  Experimental  Station  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  S\  today  the  district 
has  six  strategically  located  towers  that  vary  in  height  from  80  to  100  feet. 
The  station,  of  peeled  logs,  is  a  veritable  museum  and  displays  on  its  walls 
many  relics,  including  logging  tools,  old  firearms,  and  settlers'  equipment. 
Cloquet  is  modern  in  every  respect,  with  four  school  buildings,  a  fine 
public  library,  ten  churches,  a  privately  owned  hospital,  and  two  theaters. 
It  is  adjacent  to  the  Fond  du  Lac  Indian  Reservation,  established  by  the 
Treaty  of  La  Pointe  (see  Copper  and  Gold  Exploration). 


Coleraine 


Arrowhead  Tour  %. 

Railroad  station:     Duluth,  Missabe  &  Iron  Range,  and  Great  Northern  (freight  only), 

cor.  Gayley  and  Corey  Aves. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  cor.  Roosevelt  and  Clemson  Aves. 

Airport:     Municipal,  south  end  Powell  Ave.,  no  service. 

Accommodations:     One  hotel;  village  tourist  park,  cor.  Hartley  and  Congdon  Aves. 

Information  service:     Arcana  Hotel,  cor.  Roosevelt  and  Morrison  Aves. 

Swimming:     Municipal  beach,  Elizabeth  Ave.,  2  blocks  S. 

Tennis:     Village  Courts,  Powell  Ave.,  6  blocks  S. 

Skiing:     Slide,  cor.  Lakeview  Blvd.  and  Hovland  Ave. 

Annual  events  (exact  dates  vary) :     Ski  Tournaments,  January  and  February. 


THE  MODEL  VILLAGE 

Coleraine  (1,343  a^-»  z>325  P°P-)>  tne  second  of  the  villages  in  the 
Canisteo  District,  was  planned  and  built  by  the  Oliver  Iron  Mining  Com- 
pany for  its  employees.  Overlooking  Trout  Lake,  it  is  known  as  the 
"Model  Village." 

Timber  cruisers  and  loggers  were  the  first  known  white  men  to  visit 
the  site.  Lumbering,  however,  was  not  responsible  for  the  district's 
development. 

Prospectors  located  iron-ore  deposits,  which,  because  of  their  sandy 
admixture,  were  left  untouched  until  the  Oliver  Iron  Mining  Company 
had  successfully  experimented  in  the  concentration  of  ores.  Thereupon, 
the  company  purchased  properties  in  the  district  and  agreed  to  a  minimum 
annual  output  in  return  for  a  low  royalty  rate. 

In  1905,  John  Greenway,  district  superintendent  of  the  Oliver,  visiting 
the  shores  of  Trout  Lake,  planned  a  town  and  named  it  Coleraine  for 
Thomas  F.  Cole,  then  president  of  the  company. 

While  the  mining  company  proceeded  with  its  concentration  experi- 
ments, the  richer  deposits  were  worked.  The  Duluth,  Missabe  and  North- 
ern Railroad  was  extended  into  Coleraine  in  1906.  The  Canisteo  Mine 


9  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

(see  Bovey)  was  opened  in  1907,  and  the  first  shipment  made  in  1909. 
Coleraine  was  incorporated  as  a  village  in  1909. 

In  1910,  work  was  begun  on  a  huge  iron-ore  concentrator,  the  Trout 
Lake  Washer,  in  which  the  sand  is  separated  from  the  ore  by  log-washers, 
and  chips,  rock,  and  other  foreign  materials  are  removed.  Other  concen- 
tration plants  were  built,  and  the  region  began  a  rapid  development. 

The  first  building  erected  was  the  Greenway  High  School  (Kerr  Ave. 
bet.  Cole  and  Roosevelt  Aves.),  which  since  1922  has  housed  the  Itasca 
Junior  College,  the  only  collegiate  school  in  Itasca  County.  Trout  Lake's 
"Model  Village"  is  very  attractive,  with  well-planned  streets  and  artistically 
grouped  buildings. 

The  Itasca  Ski  and  Outing  Club,  among  the  most  active  in  the  Minne- 
sota Arrowhead,  has  produced  several  national  champion  riders.  Coleraine 
is  a  gateway  to  Scenic  State  Park. 


<*0^0r**0^0*^*0V<0r*<0^0^0*&^^^ 


Cook 


Arrowhead  Tour  8;  4- 

Railroad  station:     Duluth,   Winnipeg   &   Pacific,   old    State    n    bet.    Owens   Ave.   and 

River  St. 

Bus  station:     Northern  Transportation  Co.,   cor.   River   St.   and   3rd   Ave. 

Accommodations:     Two  hotels. 

Information  service:     Ardin  Bros.  Hotel  and  Cafe,  cor.  River  St.  and  3rd  Ave. 

Annual  events   (exact  dates   vary):     Winter  Frolic,  February;   Cook   Community  Fair, 

August. 


HOME  OF  THE  CHRISTMAS  TREE  INDUSTRY 

Cook  (1,320  alt.,  470  pop.),  to  the  north  of  the  iron-ore  belt  and  beyond 
the  Great  Laurentian  Highland  Divide,  lies  in  the  fertile  valley  of  the 
Little  Fork  River  and,  at  one  time,  was  covered  with  dense  forests. 

Lumber  companies  were  responsible  for  the  opening  of  this  vast  region 
north  of  Virginia.  The  Virginia  Lumber  Company,  eventually  absorbed 
by  the  Virginia  and  Rainy  Lake  Lumber  Company,  began  to  lay  a  logging 
road  through  the  district  in  1902  and,  by  1906-07,  offered  services  to  the 
Canadian  border.  The  first  settlers,  arriving  in  February,  1902,  were  18 
Finnish  and  Scandinavian  homesteaders  who  came  from  the  iron  ranges, 
where  they  had  worked  in  mines  and  woods.  Mining  had  not  been  to 
their  liking,  so  they  had  left  for  the  Little  Fork  Valley,  probably  attracted 
by  the  similarity  of  its  climate  and  countryside  to  their  native  lands.  They 
settled  by  squatters'  rights,  but  soon  many  abandoned  their  claims  because 
most  of  the  town  site  was  swamp. 

The  site  was  accessible  only  by  way  of  Tower  and  Lake  Vermilion. 


CROSBY  99 

In  winter,  travelers  could  go  direct  by  stage  across  the  lake  and  through 
the  timber.  In  summer,  however,  though  two  steamboats  operated  from 
Tower  to  Joyce's  Landing,  a  distance  of  30  miles,  the  rest  of  the  trip  to  the 
settlement  had  to  be  made  either  on  foot  or  horseback. 

The  town  site  was  not  surveyed  until  1904-05.  It  first  was  called 
Ashawa,  Chippewa  for  "across  the  river."  Since  this  name  was  similar  to 
that  of  a  community  in  southern  Minnesota,  it  was  changed  in  1910  to 
Cook,  in  honor  of  a  partner  in  an  early  lumber  firm,  the  Cook  and  O'Brien 
Company.  As  the  land  was  cleared,  agriculture  developed.  The  Little 
Fork  Valley  has  proved  to  be  one  of  the  best  clover  lands  in  the  country. 
More  farmers  came  to  the  community,  but  it  was  not  until  1926  that  Cook 
was  incorporated  as  a  village. 

Dairying  is  the  leading  industry.  The  Little  Fork  Creamery  Associa- 
tion, a  cooperative,  has  constructed  a  $10,000  plant.  Diversified  farming 
is  carried  on  in  the  surrounding  region,  with  hay  and  small  grains  the 
leading  crops.  The  Cook-Marvel  Flour  Mill  grinds  home-grown  wheat 
into  flour  and  middlings.  The  Cook  seed  cleaning  plant  is  one  of  the  best 
of  its  kind  in  the  State. 

From  Cook,  evergreen  trees  are  shipped  to  all  parts  of  the  United 
States  for  Christmas  use.  The  Christmas  tree  industry  is  carried  on  in 
other  parts  of  the  Arrowhead,  but  Cook  is  its  headquarters.  The  A.  J. 
Thomas  Company,  employing  approximately  75  men  during  the  holiday 
season,  sprays  the  trees  with  green  or  silver  paint  to  prevent  the  needles 
from  falling.  In  one  year,  this  concern  shipped  about  80  carloads.  The 
Northern  Evergreen  Company  ships  more  wreaths  and  roping  than  trees, 
farmers  supplying  cedar  and  balsam  boughs  and  ground  pine. 

MacDonald's  Quarry  (US  53,  seven  miles  south)  is  one  of  two  known 
deposits  of  green  granite  in  the  world.  Anderson's  Quarry  (Co.  Rd.  75, 
1.5  miles  west)  produces  a  dark,  grayish-blue  granite  (see  Ely;  Mountain 
Iron). 

Cook  is  an  outfitting  point  for  sportsmen,  being  near  Lake  Vermilion 
and  several  other  popular  resort  lakes,  including  those  on  the  international 
boundary. 

St.  Louis  County  School  114  (junction  State  i  and  3rd  Ave.),  com- 
pleted in  1932  and  supervised  by  the  St.  Louis  County  Board  of  Education, 
is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  modern  rural  schools  in  the  State. 


*&*^r*&*&*J&*s0f*&t'0r*^^^^ 


Crosby 


Arrowhead  Tour  3. 

Railroad  station:     Minneapolis,   St.   Paul   &   Sault  Ste.   Marie    (freight  only),    101    ist 

St.  N.E. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  no  W.  Main  St.;  427  Mesaba  St. 


100  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

Accommodations:     Two    hotels;    municipal    tourist    park,    311    3rd    Avc.,    S.W.,    on 

Serpent  Lake. 

Information   service:     Spaulding   Hotel,    1-5    W.   Main   St.;    Information   Booth — across 

street  from  bank — operated  June,  July  and  August. 

Golf:     Cuyuna  Range  Golf  Club,  US  210,  6  miles  S.E.  (Deerwood);  9  holes. 

Swimming:     Municipal  beach,  south  end   ist  Ave.  S.W. 

Tennis:     Municipal  courts,  south  end   ist  Ave.  W.;   Central  High  School  Courts,  cor. 

3rd  St.  S.W.  and  yth  Ave.  W. 

Annual  event  (exact  dates  vary):     Cuyuna  Range  Fair,  August. 


THE  CUYUNA  CAPITAL 

Crosby  (1,200  alt.,  2,954  P°P-)>  on  t^le  western  end  of  Serpent  Lake, 
is  the  largest  municipality  on  the  Cuyuna  Range,  and  its  chief  industry  is 
iron-ore  mining. 

The  name  Cuyler  Adams  is  associated  even  more  closely  with  the 
Cuyuna  Range  than  are  those  of  Stuntz  and  Merritt  with  the  Vermilion 
and  the  Mesabi  respectively.  The  name  Cuyuna  is  compounded  of  the 
first  syllable  of  Cuyler,  and  the  name  of  his  dog,  Una. 

Crosby  was  platted  October  5,  1905,  by  George  H.  Crosby,  a  mining 
man  of  Duluth,  whose  name  it  bears.  The  small  community  was  sup- 
ported solely  by  mining  activities.  As  the  number  of  mines  increased,  the 
town  developed  and,  in  1910,  was  incorporated  as  a  village. 

Mines,  most  of  them  open  pit,  surround  it;  the  Evergreen  is  the  largest. 
Observation  towers  provide  extensive  views  of  the  colorful  chasms  and  im- 
pressive machinery  units.  Hauled  by  chugging  locomotives  over  a  spiral 
path  of  steel  tracks,  hopper-bottomed  cars  mount  from  the  iron-ore  pits. 
Strippings  accumulate,  and  ore  stock  piles  await  shipment  on  Great  Lakes 
boats  to  steel  mills  in  the  East.  The  Minnesota  Sintering  Company  plant, 
operated  by  the  Evergreen  Mines  Company,  beneficiates  the  ore  by  washing, 
screening,  and  sintering. 

Pulpwood  is  of  some  importance,  and  in  the  surrounding  area  are  large 
stands  of  fine  timber.  Farming  is  developing  rapidly,  and  Crosby  and 
other  near-by  communities  furnish  a  market  for  farm  and  dairy  products. 
A  cooperative  creamery  association  was  established  in  1922.  Turkey  raising 
and  berries  have  proved  profitable  enterprises. 

The  village  is  well  planned,  having  wide  streets,  modern  public  build- 
ings and  utilities.  The  Central  High  School  serves  Crow  Wing  County 
School  District  No.  51,  which  includes  Ironton  (see  Ironton)  and  maintains 
the  Crosby-Ironton  Junior  College  (White  Line  Rd.,  0.15  mile  south). 
The  Crosby  Armory,  of  brick  and  tile,  built  in  1917  at  a  cost  of  $25,000,  is 
the  headquarters  of  the  Third  Battalion,  Two  Hundred  and  Sixth  Infantry, 
Minnesota  National  Guard. 

More  than  300  beautiful  lakes,  offering  fine  black  bass,  crappie,  sunfish, 
pike,  and  pickerel  fishing,  are  within  easy  driving  distance,  and  these,  to- 
gether with  many  near-by  vacation  resorts,  attract  large  numbers  of  tourists. 


DEER    RIVER  101 

c^^v^^^-x^P^v^x^c^v^vp'x-^v^^ 


Deer  River 


Arrowhead  Tour  2;  3. 

Railroad  station:     Great  Northern,   ist  St.  bet.  Herbert  and  Center  Aves. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  Miller  Hotel,  cor.  Herbert  Ave.  and  North  St. 

Taxis:     Miller  Hotel  offers  service  within  village  limits  and  to  surrounding  territory. 

Accommodations:     One  hotel. 

Information   service:     Junior   Association    of   Commerce   Information   Booth. 


PUBLIC  SCHOOL  DORMITORY 

Deer  River  (1,294  alt.,  987  pop.),  the  largest  town  in  western  Itasca 
County,  is  noted  for  its  unusual  school  facilities. 

The  history  of  the  town  begins  with  logging  and  lumbering  activities 
that  started  about  1870  in  the  surrounding  pine  forests  and  reached  their 
peak  between  1885  and  1900  (see  Grand  Rapids).  During  early  operations, 
logs  were  easily  dragged  to  Deer  Lake  and  floated  down  Deer  River.  As 
the  lumbermen  penetrated  deeper  into  the  timber,  getting  the  logs  out 
became  a  real  problem,  and  the  Itasca  Lumber  Company  constructed  a 
logging  railroad.  Later  this  road  was  rerouted  to  the  present  Deer  River, 
first  called  Itasca  City,  a  point  to  which  the  Duluth  and  Winnipeg  (ab- 
sorbed by  the  Great  Northern)  had  been  extended.  In  1897,  the  logging 
company  lengthened  its  road,  and  the  Great  Northern  advanced  westward 
to  connect  with  its  line  at  Grand  Forks,  North  Dakota. 

In  the  same  year,  Deer  River,  with  a  population  of  191,  petitioned  for 
village  incorporation,  and  in  1898  the  privilege  was  granted.  Among  the 
early  settlers  was  Frank  L.  Vance,  the  first  storekeeper.  He  was  not  only 
Itasca  County's  Baron  Munchausen,  but  also  its  "Wild  Rice  King,"  as  he 
was  among  the  first  to  popularize  the  grain  that  grows  so  abundantly  in 
near-by  lakes. 

A  highway  between  Deer  River  and  Grand  Rapids  was  built  in  1907, 
the  first  of  a  wide  network.  By  this  time,  lumbering  was  on  the  decline 
and  agriculture  was  developing.  Two  creameries  are  supported  by  Deer 
River  and  adjacent  territory. 

Today,  Deer  River  is  the  trade  center  for  the  surrounding  farming 
region.  The  lumber  industry  has  not  disappeared  altogether;  8,000  cords 
of  pulpwood  are  shipped  annually  to  the  Berst-Forster-Dixfield  Company 
in  Cloquet  (see  Cloquei),  and  the  Armour  Company  has  a  box  factory  in 
the  adjoining  village  of  Zemple. 

The  tourist  trade  is  developing  rapidly.  Deer  River  is  the  eastern  gate- 
way to  the  Chippewa  National  Forest  and  is  the  base  of  supplies  for  sports- 
men and  vacationists  heading  for  the  lakes  and  the  forest.  State  foresters 
have  headquarters  here  (Division  St.,  junction  US  2  and  State  6). 

The  Deer  River  Grade  and  High  School  (ist  St.  bet.  Laura  and  Darwin 


102  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

Aves.),  erected  in  1920,  maintains  a  dormitory  and  pays  a  portion  of  the 
students'  living  expense,  being  one  of  the  few  public  schools  in  the  United 
States  that  offer  such  advantages.  Accommodations  for  100  boys  and  girls 
from  the  rural  sections  of  School  District  No.  6  are  provided. 


Vs0V^>*J0rx^x<0^rxJ0rx^fiJ0^0T^^ 


Duluth 


Arrowhead  Tours:    Starting  point  for  all  Arrowhead  Tours. 

Railroad  stations:  Great  Northern,  506  W.  Michigan  St.  (Union  Station),  630  W. 
Michigan  St.  (freight  only);  Northern  Pacific,  506  W.  Michigan  St.,  114  S.  5th  Ave.  W. 
(freight  only),  220  S.  2oth  Ave.  W.,  cor.  54th  Ave.  W.  and  Wadena  St.,  foot  Com- 
monwealth Ave.  (freight  only);  Chicago,  Milwaukee,  St.  Paul  &  Pacific  (freight  only), 
all  Northern  Pacific  stations;  Duluth,  Missabe  &  Iron  Range,  506  W.  Michigan  St., 
cor.  27th  Ave.  W.  and  Railroad  St.,  527  E.  Gary  St.  (freight  only),  400  S.  I5th  Ave.  E., 
47th  Ave.  E.  bet.  Superior  St.  and  London  Rd.,  6oth  Ave.  E.  bet.  Superior  St.  and 
London  Rd.;  Duluth,  South  Shore  &  Atlantic,  602  W.  Superior  St.  (Soo  Line  Station), 
foot  Ramsey  St.;  Minneapolis,  St.  Paul  &  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  602  W.  Superior  St.,  foot 
loth  Ave.  W.  (freight  only),  foot  Ramsey  St.;  Chicago,  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis  & 
Omaha,  200  S.  5th  Ave.  W.  (Omaha  Station),  232  S.  5th  Ave.  W.,  foot  8th  Ave.  W. 
(both  freight  only);  Duluth,  Winnipeg  &  Pacific  (Canadian  National),  200  S.  5th  Ave. 
W.,  232  S.  5th  Ave.  W.  (freight  only),  5431  Grand  Ave. 

Bus  stations:  Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  507  W.  Superior  St.;  Curtis  Hotel,  2001  W. 
Superior  St.;  5601  Grand  Ave. 

Interurban  bus  line:  Duluth-Superior  Bus  Co.,  2631  W.  Superior  St.,  offers  service 
between  Duluth  and  Superior,  Wis. 

Local  bus  lines:  Duluth-Superior  Transit  Co.  and  Duluth-Superior  Bus  Co.  offer  service 
within  city  limits  and  to  Superior. 

Sightseeing  busses:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines  offer  trips  along  Skyline  Parkway  (see 
Duluth  Tour  ^);  Duluth-Superior  Transit  Co.  charters  busses;  its  busses  also  meet  ship 
passengers  at  docks  (foot  6th  Ave.  W.)  for  specific  tours  or  trips. 
Airport:    Williamson-Johnson  (municipal),  Stebner  Rd.,  5.5  miles  N.;  port  of  entry; 
2  runways,  I  beacon;  hangar,  service  facilities. 

Seaplane  base:     Duluth  Boat  Club,  1000  Minnesota  Ave.;  port  of  entry. 
Taxis:    Six  taxicab  lines  offer  service  within  city  limits  and  to  surrounding  territory. 
Passenger  boats:     S.  S.  Noronic  and  S.  S.  Hamonic,  operated  by  the  Northern  Naviga- 
tion Division  of  the  Canadian  Steamship  Lines,  428  W.  Superior  St.,  sail  between  Duluth, 
Port  Arthur  and  other  points  on  Lake  Superior,  Sarnia,  Ontario,  and  Detroit,  during 
2%    summer  months;   S.   S.  Alabama,  Georgian  Bay   Line,   operated   by   the  Chicago, 
Duluth  and  Georgian  Bay  Transit  Co.,  334  W.  Superior  St.,  sails  between  Duluth  and 
Buffalo,  N.  Y.  during  July  and  August;   these  ships  dock  at  Northern  Pacific  Dock 
No.  4,  foot  of  6th  Ave.  W.;  S.  S.  Winyah,  H.  Christiansen  &  Sons,  20  W.  Morse  St., 
sails  between  Duluth,  Grand  Marais  and  Isle  Royale. 

Excursions:  Northland  Greyhound  Lines;  all  cab  companies;  boat  trips  to  Fond  du 
Lac  and  around  harbor  and  Minnesota  Point. 

Speed  boats:     Scenic  Boat  Service,  foot  5th  Ave.  W.,  and  Duluth  Boat  Club  offer  speed 
rides,  Duluth-Superior  Harbor  tours,  and  charter  trips  to  points  on  Lake  Superior. 
Accommodations:     Ninety    hotels;    lodging    houses;    tourist    homes;    municipal    tourist 
camps — Brighton  Beach,  cor.   London  Rd.   and   S.   62nd   Ave.   E.,  on  Lake   Superior; 
*'•  dian  Point,  cor.  Pulaski  St.  and  68th  Ave.  W.,  on  St.  Louis  Bay. 

-nation  service:     Minnesota  Arrowhead  Association,  Hotel  Duluth,  cor.  3rd  Ave.  E. 


D  U  L  U  T  H  103 

and  Superior  St.  (all-year  bureau);  Curtis  Hotel,  2001  W.  Superior  St.,  and  Ramsey  St. 
bet.  56th  and  Grand  Aves.  (summer  bureaus);  Duluth  Chamber  of  Commerce,  Medical 
Arts  Building,  324  W.  Superior  St.  (all-year  bureau);  430  W.  Superior  St.  (summer 
bureau);  Duluth  Automobile  Club,  600  W.  Superior  St. 

Golf:  (Municipal)  Enger  Park,  cor.  igth  Ave.  W.  and  Rogers  Blvd.,  18  holes;  Lester 
Park,  600  Lester  Park  Rd.,  18  holes;  (open  to  public)  Northland  Country  Club,  cor. 
39th  Ave.  E.  and  Superior  St.,  18  holes;  Ridgeview  Golf  Club,  cor.  Alden  Ave.  and 
Faribault  St.,  18  holes;  Riverside  Golf  Club,  cor.  85th  Ave.  W.  and  Grand  Ave.,  9  holes; 
Lakewood  Golf  Club,  US  61,  9  miles  N.E.;  9  holes. 

Swimming:  Municipal  beaches — Minnesota  Point,  loth  St.  (lake  side),  39th  St.  (bay 
side),  43rd  St.  (lake  side);  St.  Louis  River,  foot  63rd  Ave.  W.,  foot  Commonwealth 
Ave. 

Tennis:    Municipal  playgrounds  (consult  City  Recreation  Dept.). 

Baseball:     (Professional)    Duluth  Athletic  Park,   cor.  34th  Ave.   W.  and  Superior  St.; 
Municipal  All-Sports  Stadium  (also  football),  35th  Ave.  W.  and  2nd  St. 
Curling:     Duluth  Curling  and  Skating  Club,  1328  London  Rd. 
Hockey:     Duluth  Curling  and  Skating  Club. 

Seating:     Duluth  Curling  and  Skating  Club;  municipal  outdoor  rinks. 
Boating:     Duluth  Boat  Club;  Duluth  Yacht  Club,  2730  Minnesota  Ave. 
Skiing,   tobogganing:     Municipal    jump,    slide    (2    runways),    cor.    I5th    Ave.    E.    and 
Rogers  Blvd.;  Fond  du  Lac  Winter  Sports  Center — 325-foot  ski  jump  hill,  with  a  62- 
foot  scaffold,  and  toboggan  slide;  also  cross-country  ski  runs. 
Bowling:     Alleys  in  different  parts  of  the  city. 

Riding:  Lester  Park  Paddock,  5908  E.  Superior  St.;  Fond  du  Lac  Winter  Sports  Center; 
Deer  Path  Lodge  (open  to  public),  Jean  Duluth  Rd. 

Rifle  range:  Northwestern  Gun  Club,  Rice  Lake  Rd.,  i  block  S.  junction  Blackman 
Ave.,  trap-  and  skeet-shooting  (Wednesday  evenings,  Sunday  forenoons  during  summer), 
rifle  shooting  (Sundays). 

Annual  events  (where  dates  vary  only  months  are  given) :  Winter  Sports'  Week,  North- 
western Annual  Curling  Bonspiel,  Beaux  Arts  Ball,  January;  Annual  Ski  Tournament, 
February  15;  Swedish  Midsummer  Day,  June;  Annual  Regatta,  July;  Northwest  Annual 
Trophy  Shoot,  October;  Charity  Ball,  November. 


THE  SUMMER  CITY 

Duluth  (alt.  602  at  lake  level,  1,100  at  Skyline  Parkway;  pop.  101,065) 
extends  26  miles  along  the  western  tip  of  Lake  Superior,  the  bays  of 
Superior  and  St.  Louis,  and  the  lower  St.  Louis  River.  The  city  mounts 
rocky  bluffs  to  the  north  and  to  the  south  it  takes  in  a  six-mile  sand  bar, 
Minnesota  Point  (see  Duluth-Superior  Harbor). 

An  aerial  lift  bridge  spans  the  Duluth  Ship  Canal  and  connects  Minne- 
sota Point  with  the  mainland.  This  sand  bar  is  a  natural  breakwater  for 
the  Duluth-Superior  Harbor,  into  which  the  St.  Louis  River  empties. 
To  the  west  and  south  are  the  iron,  steel,  and  cement  plants.  Beyond 
them  are  the  densely  wooded  islands  of  the  St.  Louis  River.  Along  the 
opposite  shore  extends  the  Wisconsin  city  of  Superior. 

Duluth,  known  as  "the  air-conditioned  city,"  has  splendid  facilities  for 
year-round  outdoor  recreation.  Lake  Superior  and  St.  Louis  Bay  afford 
opportunities  for  swimming,  fishing,  sailing  and  yachting,  speed  boating 
and  ice  boating.  Natural  parks  have  been  developed,  and  throughout  the 
city  there  are  supervised  playgrounds,  as  well  as  tennis  courts,  golf  links, 
skating  rinks,  and  ski  and  toboggan  slides.  In  fact,  there  are  facilities  for 
almost  every  outdoor  sport. 

For  beginnings  it  is  necessary  to  turn  back  to  1752,  the  first  year  that 


104  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

shelters  more  substantial  than  tepees  are  known  to  have  been  erected  for 
winter-living  at  Fond  du  Lac.  These  wintering  houses,  used  by  the  fur 
traders,  probably  were  located  on  Minnesota  Point.  At  or  near  here,  Marie 
Josephe  Tellier,  daughter  of  the  half-breed  fur  trader  Jean  Baptiste  Tellier, 
was  born  and  christened  in  1753,  so  the  Macfynac  Register  states.  While 
the  fur  trade  passed  through  successive  hands,  a  little  settlement  grew 
about  the  stockade  at  what  now  is  Fond  du  Lac,  though  without  sugges- 
tion of  permanence. 

In  1832,  the  Schoolcraft  expedition  passed  here  {see  Cass  La\e),  and 
with  it  was  Reverend  W.  T.  Boutwell,  who  delivered  the  first  sermon  in 
English  in  the  region;  40  persons  came  to  hear  him,  he  tells.  Two  years 
later,  he  returned  and  married  Hester  Crooks — the  first  local  wedding. 
Hester's  mother  was  a  half-breed  Chippewa,  her  father,  Ramsay  Crooks, 
was  a  famous  trader  and  director  of  the  American  Fur  Company.  To  assist 
Boutwell  in  his  missionary  work  came  Reverend  Edmund  F.  Ely,  a  Pres- 
byterian (see  Arrowhead  Tour  3),  who  built  and  established  a  school  at 
Fond  du  Lac  in  1834 — Duluth's  first — and  married  one  of  its  teachers,  who 
was  part  Indian. 

In  1852,  George  R.  Stuntz  (see  The  Iron  Ore  Ranges)  arrived  on  a 
visit,  under  orders  from  Surveyor  General  George  B.  Sargent,  whose  head- 
quarters were  at  Davenport,  Iowa.  So  impressed  was  he  with  the  possi- 
bilities of  this  wilderness  country  that  he  returned  the  following  year  to 
stay.  It  is  he  who  usually  is  credited  with  being  Duluth's  first  settler. 
In  1854, tne  north  shore  of  Lake  Superior  was  opened  to  white  settlement, 
and  prospectors  poured  in.  One  contemporary  observer  wrote:  "First 
came  the  mining  men  seeking  copper,  and  they  were  quickly  followed  by 
the  town  site  developers,  and  with  these  came  the  lumbermen  and  the 
sawmills." 

In  1855,  the  head  of  the  lakes  had  a  little  boom  all  its  own.  Without 
title  to  the  land,  speculators  sold  lots  and  platted  towns,  most  of  which 
never  existed  except  on  paper.  Oneota,  platted  in  1855,  was  one  that  sur- 
vived to  become  part  of  the  modern  city.  Its  post  office,  the  city's  first,  was 
opened  in  1856,  with  E.  F.  Ely,  former  missionary,  in  charge,  and  served 
from  30  to  40  persons.  Another  town,  the  present-day  Fond  du  Lac,  had 
14  buildings.  Still  another  was  Duluth,  as  yet  unplatted  and  unnamed. 
Its  business  was  represented  chiefly  by  George  Nettleton,  whose  claim  was 
located  near  what  now  is  Second  Avenue  East  and  Superior  Street,  where, 
having  taken  out  a  trader's  license,  he  carried  on  a  little  barter,  and  by 
George  Stuntz,  who  had  established  a  small  post  near  his  dock  on  Minne- 
sota Point.  Robert  JefTerson  built  the  first  frame  house,  intended  as  a 
hotel,  about  500  feet  north  of  the  present  ship  canal.  Guests,  however, 
were  slow  in  coming,  and  eventually  he  left.  Nevertheless,  in  its  time  the 
house  was  the  scene  of  much  entertaining,  and  it  was  here  that  the  St.  Louis 
County  District  Court  held  its  first  session. 

In  October,  1855,  the  first  election  at  the  head  of  the  lakes  took  place 
in  George  Nettleton's  "claim  shanty,"  its  purpose  being  to  choose  a  delegate 
to  Congress  from  the  Minnesota  Territory.  Most  of  the  105  voters  lived 


DULUTH 


I05 


in  Superior,  not  in  Duluth,  and  were  Minnesota  residents  only  by  right  of 
claims  they  had  taken  for  speculation. 

The  following  spring  the  town  site  was  platted  by  the  Nettletons, 
Jefferson,  Joshua  B.  Culver,  and  Orrin  W.  Rice.  To  identify  it,  these 
gentlemen  appealed  to  Reverend  Joseph  G.  Wilson,  a  missionary  living 
across  the  bay,  promising  two  city  lots  in  exchange  for  a  name  they  would 
accept.  He  immediately  began  a  search  for  old  books — a  task  none  too 
easy  in  a  frontier  settlement.  At  last,  in  a  translated  account  of  early 
French  explorers,  he  learned  of  the  romantic  Daniel  Greysolon,  Sieur  du 
Lhut,  and  "Duluth"  the  town  became. 

The  decision  aroused  no  great  excitement.  Few  there  were  who  thought 
the  place  of  any  importance;  all  looked  to  Superior  as  the  future  metropolis, 
and  even  little  Oneota  outranked  the  embryo  city.  The  infant,  however, 
began  to  grow.  Sawmills  were  springing  up,  and  the  surrounding  hills 
were  stripped  of  their  pine.  In  May,  1857,  the  village  was  incorporated. 
The  first  warehouse  was  erected  on  the  lake  shore,  at  what  now  is  Third 
Avenue  East,  and  was  used  as  the  county  and  Federal  building,  post  and 
land  offices,  and  commercial  headquarters.  That  same  year  Fond  du  Lac, 
Portland,  Belville,  and  Oneota  also  were  incorporated — all,  like  Duluth, 
shore  settlements,  destined  to  be  absorbed. 

The  first  setback  was  the  national  panic  of  1857.  Hard-pressed  creditors 
demanded  money,  and  pioneer  builders  paid  as  long  as  they  could.  Most 
of  the  families  left.  For  those  who  remained,  fish  and  potatoes  were  the 
mainstay.  Of  meat,  sugar,  and  wheat  there  was  none.  Not  a  store  re- 
mained open  in  Duluth,  and  all  supplies,  such  as  there  were,  came  from 
Superior.  To  add  to  the  sufferings  of  the  depleted  community,  an  epidemic 
of  scarlet  fever  affected  practically  every  home. 

In  1865,  only  two  houses  were  occupied,  and  the  post  office  had  been 
appropriated  by  Portland.  Duluth  appeared  destined  to  become  a  "ghost" 
town.  Notwithstanding,  a  scattered  few  maintained  an  unshakable  faith. 
They  seemed  vindicated  when,  before  the  year  had  ended,  gold-bearing 
quartz  was  reported  from  Lake  Vermilion  (see  Copper  and  Gold  Ex- 
ploration), and  prospectors  rushed  in. 

Jay  Cooke,  the  great  financier,  then  decided  to  make  Duluth  the  ter- 
minus of  his  railroad  (see  Carlton).  "The  lifeless  corpse,  touched  by  the 
wand  of  Jay  Cooke,  sprang  full-armed  from  the  tomb,"  and  during  1869 
the  population  jumped  to  more  than  3,000.  Lumbermen  came  from  Maine. 
Sawmills  that  shot  up  like  mushrooms  were  unable  to  meet  demands.  The 
construction  of  the  railroad  progressed.  Soon  many  ships  were  passing  in 
and  out  of  the  harbor,  bringing  supplies,  taking  lumber  and  wheat. 

General  George  B.  Sargent  and  George  C.  Stone,  as  agents  for  Jay 
Cooke,  opened  the  first  bank.  The  firebrand  Thomas  Foster  founded  the 
Duluth  Minnesotian,  a  weekly,  the  town's  first  newspaper,  exuberantly  pro- 
claiming this  "the  Zenith  City  of  the  Unsalted  Seas."  Even  more  important 
to  many  was  the  building  of  the  famous  Clark  House,  under  General 
Sargent's  direction.  Until  it  burned  in  1881,  this  rambling  hostelry  that 
stood  on  Superior  Street  between  First  and  Second  Avenues  West  was  the 
scene  for  all  outstanding  banquets,  balls,  and  parties — a  community  house 


106  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

and  social  refuge  for  those  who  strove  to  maintain  a  semblance  of  dignity 
and  good  manners  during  the  rowdy  seventies,  when  Duluth,  according  to 
one  realistic  observer,  was  a  "haphazard,  scraggly  and  repellent  settlement — 
a  combination  of  Indian  trading-post,  seaport,  railroad  construction  camp, 
and  gambling  resort,  altogether  wild,  rough,  uncouth,  and  frontierlike." 

In  1870,  Duluth  obtained  a  city  charter,  electing  Joshua  B.  Culver  as 
first  mayor.  Duluth  was  opened  to  the  outside  world  by  two  railroads: 
the  Lake  Superior  and  Mississippi  and  the  Northern  Pacific.  About  this 
time  the  latter  built  its  famous  "Immigrant  House"  for  the  stream  of 
foreigners  who,  mosdy  from  Montreal,  were  compelled  to  stop  over  on  their 
way  to  the  Dakotas.  The  huge  frame  structure  on  pilings  at  what  now  is 
the  corner  of  Fifth  Avenue  West  and  Michigan  Street  sheltered  as  many  as 
700  at  one  time. 

During  the  seventies  and  early  eighties,  the  community  experienced  its 
growing  pains.  Brawls  and  gang  fights  accompanied  political  struggles; 
a  "vigilance  committee"  was  succeeded  by  police,  the  first  officer  of  whom 
absconded.  Churches,  schools,  and  utility  franchises  multiplied.  Com- 
mercially, Duluth  was  charging  forward  at  top  speed.  The  Government 
took  over  the  famous  ship  canal  in  1873,  two  years  after  the  city  had  cut  it 
through,  and  the  first  of  its  extensive  improvements  was  under  way. 
Duluthians  were  confident  that  their  town  would  become  "the  leader  of 
the  western  continents." 

The  bubble  collapsed,  and  Duluth  received  a  second  setback.  Jay 
Cooke,  its  godfather,  went  broke.  It  is  doubtful  that  any  other  community 
in  the  country  felt  the  1873  panic  with  more  devastating  effect.  Faith  had 
been  boundless;  now  "it  was  as  though  the  very  heavens  had  fallen." 
Thousands  were  forced  to  seek  work  elsewhere,  and  the  population  dropped 
in  a  few  months  from  5,000  to  1,300.  Interest  on  bonds  issued  in  the 
frenzy  of  expansion  no  longer  could  be  paid,  and,  unable  to  face  the  ap- 
palling debt,  the  city  surrendered  its  charter,  burned  canceled  bonds,  and 
reverted  to  village  status. 

Faith,  however,  had  not  died.  After  all,  the  panic  had  not  affected 
natural  resources.  Forests  still  were  to  be  cut  and  railroads  to  be  built. 
Moreover,  western  Minnesota  and  the  Dakotas  were  raising  the  world's 
greatest  crops  of  wheat — grain  for  which  this  port  was  the  logical  outlet. 
The  builders  dug  in.  Elevators  and  warehouses  sprang  up  along  the  docks. 
Ten  years  after  the  panic,  with  mining  developing  on  the  Vermilion  Range, 
Duluth,  although  yet  a  village,  with  a  population  of  14,000,  had  a  Grand 
Opera  House,  hospital,  telephone  exchange,  street  railway,  chamber  of 
commerce,  and  board  of  trade,  and  had  become  one  of  the  greatest  grain 
ports  in  the  world,  able  to  boast  that  its  1886  handling  of  22,000,000 
bushels  was  "nearly  eight  million  bushels  more"  than  that  of  Chicago. 

By  1887,  the  greater  part  of  the  bankrupt  city's  debts  having  been  re- 
deemed, it  was  reincorporated  as  a  city,  prepared  once  again  to  "take  her 
place  among  the  great  cities  of  the  world."  The  following  years  were 
extremely  active;  real  estate  and  building  prospered  beyond  all  expectations, 
and  an  extensive  public  works  program  got  under  way. 

The  first  serious  labor  trouble  occurred  in  1888.    A  strike  of  laborers 


LAND-LOCKED  SALMON  CAUGHT  AT  SEA  GULL  LAKE. 

(Individual  specimens)  A-Muskellunge.  B-Northern  Pike. 
C-Wall-eyed  Pike.  D-German  Brown  Trout.  E-Large 
Mouth  Black  Bass.  F-Brook  Trout.  G-Crappie.  H-Sunfish. 


D 


(Above)     AN  ARROWHEAD  RENDEZVOUS.    The  region  has  many  of  these 
stretches  of  crystal  water  where  the  big  ones  lurk. 


(Below)     SUPPER  IN  CAMP.     Reviewing  today's  sport  and  dreaming  of 
tomorrow's. 


D  U  L  U  T  H  107 

and  sawmill  workers  was  arbitrated  by  the  mayor,  and  wages  were  in- 
creased to  $1.75  per  day.  The  Federated  Trade  Council  of  Duluth  was 
organized  in  November,  1889,  and  received  a  charter  from  the  American 
Federation  of  Labor. 

When  iron  ore  was  shipped  to  Two  Harbors  from  the  Vermilion  Range 
in  1884,  Duluth  was  still  thinking  in  terms  of  lumber  and  wheat.  Not 
until  the  Merritts  had  opened  the  Mesabi  Range,  in  1890  (see  Mountain 
Iron),  and  made  their  first  shipment,  in  1892,  did  it  become  iron-ore  con- 
scious. Duluth  became  the  center  for  mining  supplies,  every  one  sharing 
the  excitement  of  the  prospecting  expeditions  that  departed  and  returned 
almost  every  day. 

Another  panic  was  on  its  way,  and  in  1893  Duluth  received  its  third 
setback.  Small  mining  ventures  failed,  and  many  individual  fortunes  were 
lost,  but  the  city  as  a  whole  found  itself  better  off  than  at  first  had  seemed 
possible,  thanks  to  the  uninterrupted  operations  of  lumbering.  This  time, 
faith  in  its  destiny  hardly  wavered. 

Iron-ore  shipments  increased  year  by  year.  At  the  turn  of  the  century, 
the  population  had  risen  from  33,115  to  52,969,  despite  national  depression. 
Even  a  confirmed  pessimist  could  not  have  denied  that  prospects  were  rosy. 
Miles  of  new  steel  docks  were  required  for  handling  iron  ore  and  coal, 
and  large  grain  elevators  gave  a  dramatic  note  of  modernity  to  the  bustling 
city.  Lumbering,  as  the  dominant  economic  factor,  was  gradually  replaced 
by  iron-ore  mining,  and,  up  to  this  day,  iron  ore  is  the  backbone  of  the 
region's  wealth. 

The  diversity  of 'raw  materials  in  the  region  and  the  unlimited  shipping 
facilities  have  brought  many  jobbers  and  manufacturers. 

Large  numbers  of  foreign-born  workers  were  attracted  by  the  rapidly 
developing  industries.  The  census  of  1930  listed  24,929  foreign-born 
whites  in  Duluth.  The  two  largest  groups  were  Scandinavian,  10,976,  and 
Finnish,  3,040.  Others  were:  Yugoslavs,  782;  French-Canadians,  872; 
Italians,  787;  Poles,  1,280;  Germans,  1,070.  Before  the  depression  of  1929, 
there  were  1,000  Negroes,  but  their  number  has  decreased  to  about  400. 

Not  long  ago,  all  foreign  groups  had  their  respective  churches  in  which 
services  were  held  in  native  languages.  Today  only  the  following  churches 
conduct  regular  services  in  foreign  tongues:  St.  George's  Serbian  Orthodox 
Church,  St.  Elizabeth's  for  Croats  and  Slovenians,  St.  Peter's  for  Italians, 
St.  Josephat  for  Poles,  and  St.  John  Baptiste  for  French-Canadians.  English 
services  predominate  in  the  Swedish,  Norwegian,  Danish,  and  German 
Lutheran  churches. 

The  children  and  grandchildren  of  the  foreign  born  are  beginning  to 
take  conscious  pride  in  the  literature,  drama,  dancing  and  handiwork  of 
their  forbears,  and  numerous  small  groups,  notably  among  Scandinavians 
and  Poles,  have  been  formed  to  revive  and  keep  alive  old  country  customs 
and  traditions. 

Duluth  is  still  looking  forward  to  the  fulfillment  of  an  old  dream — 
the  completion  of  the  Great  Lakes-St.  Lawrence  seaway.  The  ambition 
has  become  so  insistent  that  opponents  say  derisively,  "It  is  the  old  maid 
city,  looking  under  her  bed  every  night  for  an  ocean." 


108  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

Duluth  takes  great  pride  in  its  famous  chain  of  boulevards,  which  make 
up  the  29  miles  of  scenic  drives  along  the  Skyline  Parkway;  its  finely  de- 
veloped park  system;  its  educational  facilities,  which  include  a  State  Teachers 
College,  35  grade,  six  junior  and  three  senior  high  schools,  and  one  junior 
college,  together  with  the  Roman  Catholic  parochial  system  of  12  elemen- 
tary, four  high  schools,  and  one  college;  its  Civic  Symphony  Orchestra,  and 
its  many  other  civic  and  cultural  achievements. 

In  its  brief  lifetime  Duluth  has  accomplished  much,  but  knows  it  is 
far  from  having  exhausted  its  possibilities.  It  possesses  ample  storage  fa- 
cilities. At  the  head  of  the  Great  Lakes  and  the  hub  of  eight  railroads,  it 
has  easy  access  to  far-flung  markets.  Its  adjacent  territory  is  rich  in  raw 
materials — iron  ore,  timber,  grain,  and  dairy  products;  its  St.  Louis  River 
provides  hydroelectric  energy.  As  the  summer  city  of  the  continent,  it 
attracts  an  increasing  tourist  trade  each  year. 

TOUR  1 
LAKE  SHORE,  9  miles. 

N.  from  Superior  St.  on  La%e  Ave.  N. 

WASHINGTON  JUNIOR  HIGH  SCHOOL  (L),  a  conspicuous  red 
brick  building  at  305  Lake  Ave.  N.,  has  a  broadcasting  system  built  by 
students,  with  radio,  phonograph  and  public  address  microphones. 

Retrace  on  LaJ^e  Ave.  N.  to  2nd  St.;  L.  on  2nd  st. 

Built  of  Minnesota  brownstone,  DULUTH  CENTRAL  HIGH 
SCHOOL  (L)  bet.  Lake  Ave.  and  ist  Ave.  E.,  is  surmounted  by  a  rec- 
tangular tower  230  feet  high;  with  2,700  students  it  is  the  city's  largest  high 
school.  A  Foucault  pendulum  75  feet  long  hangs  inside  the  tower,  its 
slow,  regular  vibrations  spanning  the  face  of  a  graduated  circle  once  every 
24  hours. 

R.  on  2nd  Ave.  E.;  L.  on  Superior  St. 

HOTEL  DULUTH  (L),  227  E.  Superior  St.,  14  stories  high,  was  com- 
pleted in  1925  of  light  brick  and  terra  cotta  in  Italian  Renaissance  design. 

The  MINNESOTA  ARROWHEAD  ASSOCIATION,  organized  to 
further  the  civic,  commercial  and  social  interests  of  the  Minnesota  Arrow- 
head country,  has  its  headquarters  on  the  mezzanine  floor  of  the  hotel. 

L.  on  yd  Ave.  E.;  R.  on  2nd  St. 

At  502  E.  2nd  St.  is  the  five-story  MILLER  MEMORIAL  HOSPITAL 
(R),  for  needy  patients,  built  of  cream-colored  face  brick  and  native  Minne- 
sota limestone.  Endowed  by  the  late  Andreas  H.  Miller  with  a  trust  fund  set 
aside  in  memory  of  his  son,  the  hospital  stands  on  the  former  home-site  of  the 
late  Judge  Josiah  D.  Ensign,  prominent  pioneer  jurist,  who  came  to  Duluth 
in  1870.  In  his  64-year  legal  career,  Judge  Ensign  served  as  both  city  and 
county  attorney,  and  mayor  of  Duluth.  He  was  elected  district  judge  in 
1889,  a  position  he  held  until  his  retirement  in  1921.  Judge  Ensign  was 
held  in  high  respect;  of  him  William  Howard  Taft  once  remarked,  "It  was 
worth  going  all  the  way  across  the  country  to  see  him."  He  died  in  1924. 

R.  on  7th  Ave.  E.;  jth  Ave.  E.  becomes  Washington  Ave. 


D  U  L  U  T  H  109 

A  bronze  plaque  and  samples  of  iron  ore,  jasper  and  greenstone  at  the 
intersection  of  Washington  Ave.  and  ist  St.  mark  the  SITE  OF  THE  OLD 
VERMILION  TRAIL,  a  favorite  route  of  Indians  and  pioneers.  Wash- 
ington Ave.  here  follows  the  original  trail  as  surveyed  by  George  R.  Stuntz. 

L.  on  Superior  St. 

The  KITCHI  GAMMI  CLUB  (L),  831  E.  Superior  St.  (private),  is 
the  oldest  club  in  Duluth. 

A  STATUE  OF  JAY  COOKE,  railroad  promoter  of  post-Civil  War 
years,  stands  within  the  triangle  (R),  cor.  pth  Ave.  E.;  Henry  M.  Shrady 
was  the  sculptor. 

L.  on  qth  Ave.  E.;  R.  on  %rd  St. 

Aus  Franzoesischem  Geschuetz — "Made  from  a  French  gun"  is  in- 
scribed on  the  900-pound  bell  that  hangs  in  the  belfry  of  ST.  PAUL'S 
EVANGELICAL  CHURCH  (R),  932  E.  3rd  St.  The  bell,  donated  to 
the  church  in  1874  by  Kaiser  William  I,  was  cast  from  a  cannon  used  by 
the  French  in  the  Franco-Prussian  War. 

R.  on  loth  Ave.  E.;  L.  on  London  Road  (US  6~/). 

The  Leif  Eril^son  of  Bergen,  a  replica  of  the  explorer  Leif  Erikson's 
dragon  ship,  stands  as  a  permanent  memorial  in  LEIF  ERIKSON  PARK 
(R),  bet.  8th  and  i4th  Aves.  E.  The  little  craft  was  sailed  from  Bergen, 
Norway,  on  May  23,  1926  by  Captain  Gerhard  Folgero  of  Sannesjoen  and 
a  crew  of  three.  The  ship  was  on  exhibition  at  the  Sesquicentennial  Ex- 
position in  Philadelphia,  and  later  at  the  dedication  of  Leif  Erikson  Drive 
in  Chicago.  It  arrived  in  Duluth  June  23,  1927. 

L.  on  i2th  Ave.  E. 

Established  twenty-seven  years  ago,  the  LITTLE  THEATER  (R), 
6  S.  1 2th  Ave.  E.,  was  one  of  the  first  in  the  country.  Its  colorful  annual 
Beaux  Arts  Ball  is  a  leading  social  event;  seven  plays  are  staged  each  winter, 
and  summer  courses  are  given,  covering  all  phases  of  dramatic  production. 

Retrace  on  I2th  Ave.  E.;  L.  on  London  Rd. 

In  the  red-brick  and  concrete  ARMORY  (L),  1305  London  Rd.,  arc 
the  permanent  headquarters  of  the  One  Hundred  and  Twenty-Fifth  Field 
Artillery  (U.  S.  National  Guard),  the  Minnesota  Naval  Militia,  and  the 
Tenth  Battalion  U.  S.  Naval  Reserve.  In  its  auditorium,  seating  3,500, 
the  65-piece  Duluth  Civic  Symphony  Orchestra  offers  its  annual  series  of 
concerts.  The  orchestra  was  organized  in  1925  on  a  $15,000  budget,  which 
gave  out  after  three  years.  In  1933,  a  new  orchestra  association  was  formed, 
and  now  many  concerts  are  given  jointly  with  the  Civic  Symphony  Choral 
Society,  organized  in  1935,  with  250  voices.  The  orchestra's  first  radio 
broadcast  was  given  in  1934. 

At  1328  London  Rd.  (R)  is  the  two-story  DULUTH  CURLING  AND 
SKATING  CLUB  BUILDING.  Nearly  300  feet  in  length,  the  building 
has  a  roomy  amphitheater,  with  skating  and  curling  rinks. 

L.  on  21  st  Ave.  E.;  R.  on  Superior  St. 

A  made-over  barn  seating  200  is  now  the  CHILDREN'S  THEATER 
(L),  22155/2  E.  Superior  St.  Its  opening  performance,  The  Wizard  of  Oz, 
was  given  in  1928,  when  the  group  was  still  a  branch  of  the  Little  Theater. 


110  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

Aladdin  and  His  Lamp  was  the  first  production  as  a  separate  organization 
in  its  own  building,  then  at  114  N.  i5th  Ave.  E. 

L.  on  2$rd  Ave.  E.  to  2nd  St.;  L.  to  iqth  Ave.  E. 

THE  CHILDREN'S  MUSEUM  (L),  1832  E.  2nd  St.,  is  housed  in 
a  rebuilt  residence  donated  by  Mrs.  Archibald  Chisholm.  The  exhibits 
were  moved  there  in  1935,  after  five  years  in  Salter  School.  With  a  wide 
range  of  exhibits  (open  daily  except  Sun.  and  holidays  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m., 
Wed.  and  Sat.  9  a.  m.  to  12),  the  Museum  is  a  valuable  visual  aid  in  the 
education  of  public  school  students.  Outstanding  relics  are  a  paint  brush 
used  by  Rosa  Bonheur  and  a  glass  once  belonging  to  George  Washington. 
Children,  assisted  by  the  staff,  study  the  displays,  draw  pictures  and  make 
notes. 

R.  to  E.  4th  St.;  R.  on  E.  4th  St.  to  Hawthorne  Rd. 

Tudor-style  EAST  JUNIOR  HIGH  SCHOOL  (R),  cor.  4th  St.,  com- 
pleted in  1927,  offers  an  inspiring  view  of  Lake  Superior  from  its  classroom 
windows. 

R.  on  Hawthorne  Rd.  ($ist  Ave.  E.);  L.  on  Superior  St. 

Picturesque  35-acre  CONGDON  PARK  (R  and  L),  bet.  32nd  and  33d 
Aves.  E.,  is  cut  by  driveways  on  both  sides  of  Tischer  Creek. 

A  modern,  comprehensive  playground,  ORDEAN  FIELD  (R),  cor. 
40th  Ave.  E.,  covers  28  acres,  has  a  field  house  and  a  brick,  7,ooo-seat 
stadium,  football  and  baseball  fields,  tennis  courts,  cinder  track  and  jump- 
ing and  vaulting  pits. 

R.  on  6oth  Ave.  E.  (see  DULUTH  TOUR  4);  L.  on  London  Rd. 

The  only  hatchery  under  Federal  control  on  Lake  Superior,  the  U.  S. 
FISH  HATCHERY  (R),  6008  London  Rd.,  is  the  largest  in  Minnesota. 
Open  daily  from  8  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.,  the  hatchery  has  young  trout  which 
can  be  seen  in  outdoor  troughs,  and  pike  and  whitefish  in  indoor  tanks. 
Both  the  Federal  Government  and  the  State  Conservation  Department 
cooperate  in  the  work,  raising  fingerlings  from  eggs  taken  from  State 
hatcheries  or  purchased  from  other  States.  Most  of  the  species  indigenous 
to  the  Great  Lakes  and  to  the  smaller  lakes  and  streams  of  this  locality 
are  distributed  from  the  hatchery. 

Cross  Lester  River  Bridge. 

(L)  BRIGHTON  BEACH  MUNICIPAL  TOURIST  CAMP. 

KITCHI  GAMMI  PARK  (L  and  R),  bet.  E.  Lester  Blvd.  (6ist  Ave.  E.) 
and  Lakewood  Rd.  (8ist  Ave.  E.)  has  153  acres  of  native  trees  and  several 
species  foreign  to  Minnesota,  with  excellent  picnic  sites  along  the  lake. 

(Retrace  to  6oth  Ave.  E.  and  continue  on  Duluth  Tour  4.) 

TOUR  2 
MINNESOTA  POINT,  7  miles. 

S.  from  Superior  St.  on  La\e  Ave.  S. 

At  301  Lake  Ave.  S.  (R)  is  the  MARSHALL-WELLS  COMPANY,  in 
the  heart  of  the  wholesale  district.  This  company  is  the  largest  hardware 
jobber  and  distributor  in  the  Northwest. 


DULUTH  III 

The  U.  S.  ENGINEERS  OFFICE  (L),  600  Lake  Ave.  S.  (open  daily 
except  Sun.  and  holidays  9  a.  m.  to  4:30  p.  m.,  Sat.  8  a.  m.  to  12),  has 
jurisdiction  over  the  Duluth  district,  from  the  Lake  Superior  watershed 
east  to  Iroquois  Point,  just  above  the  Soo  Locks.  It  supervises  navigation 
and  power  development  and  oversees  all  phases  of  river  and  harbor  im- 
provement. It  is  a  cream  brick  and  gray  stone  building.  On  the  lawn  is 
a  bronze  PLAQUE  which  memorializes  Du  Lhut's  crossing  of  Minnesota 
Point  in  1679. 

Unique  among  Duluth's  structures  is  the  AERIAL  LIFT  BRIDGE, 
spanning  the  Duluth  Ship  Canal  at  the  base  of  Minnesota  Point.  It  uses 
the  overhead  structure  and  towers  of  the  original  Aerial  Bridge,  built  in 
1905  from  plans  drawn  by  C.  A.  P.  Turner  of  Minneapolis.  Its  electrically 
operated  car,  suspended  from  cables,  could  carry  a  load  of  six  vehicles  and 
350  passengers  across  the  channel.  It  was  replaced  by  the  present  structure 
in  1930,  having  by  that  time  became  inadequate  to  accommodate  the 
growing  traffic  to  and  from  the  mainland.  This  new  bridge,  which  operates 
as  a  lift  span,  is  510  feet  long,  with  a  vertical  clearance  of  138  feet  to  permit 
lake  steamers  to  pass  into  the  bay.  Two  45o-ton  concrete  blocks  counter- 
balance the  900-ton  lift.  The  electrically-operated  machinery  is  extremely 
rapid  in  its  action,  'raising  the  span  120  feet  in  55  seconds. 

Throughout  the  shipping  season,  tourists  congregate  here  to  watch  boats 
pass  under  the  bridge.  Three  hoarse  whistle  blasts  from  an  approaching 
ship  evoke  three  answering  blasts  from  the  bridge,  the  entire  span  rises  as 
the  counterweights  descend,  and  the  ship  slides  ponderously  through  the 
canal. 

MINNESOTA  POINT  (Park  Point)  across  the  bridge,  is  a  community 
on  an  island,  with  a  modern  school,  homes  and  stores,  community  building 
and  fire  department.  This  curiously-formed  strip  of  land  has  small, 
constantly-moving  sand  dunes,  which  often  bury  vegetation.  Legend  has 
it  that  a  storm  once  blew  away  an  Indian  graveyard  near  the  far  end  of 
the  Point.  (See  Folklore  and  Festivals.) 

R.  on  loth  St. 

With  docking  accommodations  and  storage  space  for  boats  up  to  50  feet 
in  length,  the  DULUTH  BOAT  CLUB  occupies  a  large  frame  building 
at  the  west  end  of  loth  St.  Julius  H.  Barnes,  nationally-prominent  Du- 
luthian,  donated  the  natatorium. 

Retrace  on  loth  St.;  R.  on  La\e  Ave.  S. 

The  U.  S.  COAST  GUARD  STATION  AND  WATCHTOWER  (R), 
1225  Lake  Ave.  S.  (open),  fronts  on  both  lake  and  harbor. 

Retrace  on  LaJ^e  Ave.  S.;  L.  on  I2th  St. 

At  the  west  end  of  i2th  St.  is  the  U.  S.  NAVAL  BASE. 

R.  on  Minnesota  Ave. 

The  MINNESOTA  POINT  DEVELOPMENT  PROJECT  (R  and  L), 
4300  Minnesota  Ave.,  is  a  well-equipped  recreation  center  covering  200 
acres.  It  sustains  400  varieties  of  plant  life  including  Black  Hill  spruce, 
Scotch  pine  and  birch  trees.  Here  is  Duluth's  most  popular  bathing 
beach,  with  a  modern  bathhouse  completed  in  1939.  Duluthians  prefer 
to  swim  on  cloudy,  windy  days,  and  like  best  to  go  in  during  or  soon  after 


112  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

a  northeaster;  though  the  atmosphere  may  be  cool,  the  wind  will  have 
carried  the  warmer  surface  water  in  shore. 

Development  of  the  Minnesota  Point  recreation  area  on  a  comprehen- 
sive plan  already  has  provided  an  athletic  field,  a  large  amusement  center, 
picnic  grounds  with  tables  to  accommodate  several  hundred  persons,  and 
parking  space  for  hundreds  of  cars.  A  weather-beaten  brick  ruin,  RE- 
MAINS OF  THE  FIRST  LIGHTHOUSE  at  the  head  of  the  lakes, 
stands  at  the  southern  tip  of  Minnesota  Point.  R.  H.  Barrett,  who  clerked 
in  George  Stuntz's  trading  post  (see  Duluth),  was  its  first  keeper.  He 
blew  an  old-fashioned  warning  horn  to  signal  approaching  boats  in  foggy 
weather.  The  spot  is  still  the  "zero"  point  for  marine  surveys. 

TOUR  3 
WESTERN  DULUTH,  19.6  miles. 

N.  from  Superior  St.  on  La\e  Ave.  N.;  L.  on  2nd  st. 

The  DULUTH  PUBLIC  LIBRARY  (R),  cor.  ist  Ave.  W.  (open  wee\ 
days  9  a.  m.  to  9  p.  m.,  Sun.  and  holidays  2  to  9  p.  m.),  occupies  a  two- 
story  building  of  Port  Wing  stone  in  Grecian  design,  erected  in  1902 
through  funds  donated  by  Andrew  Carnegie.  The  city's  first  library  con- 
sisted of  a  small  collection  in  a  reading  room  at  106  West  Superior  Street. 
This  served  for  20  years,  but  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1889.  A  year  later, 
a  library  board  was  appointed  and  $500  appropriated  for  books.  The 
library  was  opened  in  the  old  Masonic  Temple  building,  corner  Second 
Avenue  West  and  Superior  Street,  where  it  was  housed  until  the  present 
building  was  erected.  In  addition  to  the  main  library,  there  are  seven 
branches  and  numerous  stations.  Of  its  more  than  150,000  volumes,  many 
are  in  foreign  languages. 

JR.  on  3rd  Ave.  W. 

The  FIRST  METHODIST  EPISCOPAL  CHURCH  (L),  215  N.  3rd 
Ave.  W.,  of  red  sandstone  in  a  Gothic  design,  had  the  first  chimes  in  the 
city.  The  carillon  consists  of  ten  bells  that  can  be  played  in  two  keys. 

Retrace  on  $rd  Ave.  W. 

The  WOLVIN  BUILDING  (L),  cor.  ist  St.,  houses  the  offices  of  the 
United  States  Steel  Corporation  and  its  subsidiaries. 

The  DULUTH  BOARD  OF  TRADE  (R),  cor.  ist  St.,  is  the  largest 
export  market  of  spring  wheat  in  the  United  States  and  one  of  the  two 
largest  primary  spring  wheat  markets;  it  handles  grain  from  Minnesota, 
the  Dakotas  and  Montana. 

R.  on  Superior  St. 

The  MEDICAL  ARTS  BUILDING  (L),  324  W.  Superior  St.,  14 
stories  high,  of  white  stone,  is  Duluth's  most  modern  office  building.  The 
main  entrance  is  two  stories  high  with  black  marble  pilasters  on  each  side. 
Lobby  walls  are  marble,  floors  black  granite,  and  the  ceiling  is  finished  in 
golf  leaf. 

The  DULUTH  CHAMBER  OF  COMMERCE  occupies  most  of  the 
second  floor  of  the  building. 


DULUTH  113 

R.  on  4th  Ave.  W.;  L.  on  ist  St. 

The  DULUTH  HERALD  AND  NEWS-TRIBUNE  PLANT  (L), 
420  W.  ist  St.,  publishes  Duluth's  two  largest  daily  newspapers. 

Three  impressive  granite  buildings  make  up  the  CIVIC  CENTER  (R), 
bet.  4th  and  6th  Aves.  W.:  the  FEDERAL  BUILDING  (built  1930),  ST. 
LOUIS  COUNTY  COURTHOUSE  (1910),  and  CITY  HALL  (1927). 
The  center  was  designed  by  Daniel  H.  Burnham  of  Chicago. 

On  the  fourth  floor  of  the  Courthouse  is  the  ST.  Louis  COUNTY  HIS- 
TORICAL SOCIETY  MUSEUM  AND  LIBRARY  (open  daily  except  Sun.  and  holi- 
days 8  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m.,  Sat.  8:30  a.  m.  to  12).  Here  the  visitor  may 
examine  maps,  books,  war  records,  and  artifacts  of  St.  Louis  County.  There 
is  a  valuable  display  of  Indian  paintings  and  sketches  by  Eastman  Johnson, 
who  visited  the  Arrowhead  country  back  in  the  1850*5. 

The  SOLDIERS'  AND  SAILORS'  MONUMENT,  Patriotism  Guard- 
ing the  Flag,  stands  in  front  of  the  Courthouse.  It  was  designed  by  Cass 
Gilbert. 

L.  on  $th  Ave.  W.;  R.  on  Superior  St. 

The  DULUTH  AUTOMOBILE  CLUB  (L)  is  at  600  W.  Superior  St. 

The  NORTHERN  BIBLE  SOCIETY  (R),  715  W.  Superior  St.  (open 
daily  except  Sunday  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.),  has  a  notable  display  of  Bibles  and 
Testaments,  the  private  collection  of  the  Reverend  Henry  Ramseyer,  secre- 
tary of  the  society.  The  collection  includes  a  first  edition  of  the  King  James 
Bible,  1611;  a  seventeenth-century  Hebrew  scroll  written  by  hand  on  52 
sheepskins;  an  Archbishop  Cranmer's  Bible,  1541;  a  Luther's  Bible,  set  in 
Gothic  type,  1560.  Represented  in  the  collection  are  550  languages,  60 
alphabets  and  phonetic  scripts. 

Where  Mesaba  Ave.  intersects  Superior  St.  was  once  an  INDIAN 
VILLAGE. 

Duluth  gabbro  with  glacial  markings  outcrops  at  POINT  OF  ROCKS 
(R),  bet.  8th  and  i4th  Aves.  W.  At  loth  Ave.  W.  and  Michigan  St.  is  a 
tunnel  driven  375  feet  through  solid  rock.  It  was  opened  many  years  ago 
by  a  group  of  men  who  hoped  to  find  silver  in  paying  quantities.  The 
project  finally  was  abandoned,  but  not  until  after  an  estimated  $30,000  in 
silver  and  copper  had  been  taken  out. 

L.  on  Gar  field  Ave.  (i6th  Ave.  W.). 

The  PEAVEY-DULUTH  GRAIN  ELEVATOR  (L),  900  Garfield 
Ave.  (not  open  to  visitors)  is  the  largest  in  Duluth,  its  310  tanks  having 
a  capacity  of  7,500,000  bushels.  It  is  equipped  to  unload  180  cars  a  day. 
Most  of  Duluth's  elevators  are  in  this  district. 

The  INTERSTATE  BRIDGE  (toll:  cars,  10$;  passengers,  5^),  leading 
to  Superior,  Wisconsin,  was  completed  in  1898.  Both  highway  and  railway 
traffic  are  carried  over  the  2,142-foot  structure. 

Retrace  on  Garfield  Ave.,  which  becomes  Piedmont  Ave.  at  Superior 
St.;  L.  on  ist  St. 

The  CENTRAL  BAPTIST  CHURCH  (R),  2001  W.  ist  St.,  has  a 
removable  suspension  roof,  anchored  by  cables  to  concrete  piers  in  the 
ground,  and  a  sanctuary  floor  that  can  be  tilted  forward  or  backward  on  a 
central  axle. 


114  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

R.  on  2$th  Ave.  W.;  L.  on  $rd  St. 

LINCOLN  PARK  (R),  bet.  25th  and  26th  Aves.  W.,  is  a  favorite 
picnic  ground  with  fireplaces,  benches,  tables  and  shelters.  Its  38  acres, 
overlooked  by  timbered  slopes,  follow  the  banks  of  Miller's  Creek.  At  the 
Scandinavian  Midsummer  Festival,  held  here  each  year  in  June,  picturesque 
folk  songs  and  dances  in  native  costume  are  performed. 

Steel  and  concrete  IRON  ORE  DOCKS  (L)  (open  by  permission  from 
offices  in  the  Wolvin  Building)  invade  St.  Louis  Bay  from  the  Duluth, 
Misabe  and  Iron  Range  Railroad  trestle,  cor.  33rd  Ave.  W.  During  one 
24-hour  period  in  1926,  these  docks  loaded  225,258  gross  tons  of  iron  ore 
into  26  vessels.  Newest  of  the  docks  is  2,304  feet  long,  with  384  loading 
pockets. 

R.  on  44th  Ave.  W. 

DENFELD  HIGH  SCHOOL  (L),  bet.  4th  and  6th  sts.,  an  H-shaped 
red-brick  and  gray  stone  building  in  English  Gothic  style,  is  the  most 
modern  high  school  in  Duluth.  DULUTH  JUNIOR  COLLEGE,  in  the 
same  building,  offers  a  three-year  academic  course.  Many  of  the  city's 
athletic  events  are  held  in  the  adjacent  PUBLIC  SCHOOLS  STADIUM. 

Retrace  on  ^th  Ave.  W.;  R.  on  Grand  Ave.  (jrd  St.);  L.  on  ^.6th 
Ave.  W. 

The  SITE  OF  THE  MERRITT  MEMORIAL  METHODIST 
CHURCH,  cor.  Superior  St.  (R),  pioneer  place  of  worship  in  Oneota,  is 
marked  by  a  bronze  plaque.  Erected  in  1892,  the  old  church  was  under 
the  pastorate  of  the  Reverend  Lucian  F.  Merritt,  one  of  the  seven  Merritt 
brothers  who  discovered  iron  on  the  Mesabi  (see  Mountain  Iron).  The 
building  was  razed  in  1921,  when  the  congregation  joined  another  to 
form  a  new  church. 

Retrace  on  ^6th  Ave.  W.;  L.  on  Grand  Ave. 

The  combination  BRIDGE  AND  STATION  of  the  Duluth,  Winnipeg 
and  Pacific  Railroad  (Canadian  National)  (R),  5431  Grand  Ave.,  is  an 
elevated  frame  building.  The  waiting  room  and  loading  platform  are  on 
the  railway  level,  three  stories  above  the  ground. 

L.  on  5$th  Ave.  W.  (Central  Ave.);  L.  on  Raleigh  St.;  R.  on  Lesure  St. 

The  INLAND  COAL  DOCK  (R),  capacity  750,000  tons,  is  one  of 
several  lining  St.  Louis  Bay  and  River. 

The  ARROWHEAD  BRIDGE  (toll:  cars,  10$;  passengers,  5^),  end 
of  Lesure  St.,  is  a  long  jackknife  span  leading  to  Superior,  Wisconsin. 
It  is  2,200  feet  long,  was  completed  in  1926. 

Retrace  on  Lesure  St.,  Raleigh  St.;  L.  on  tyth  Ave.  W. 

The  ZENITH  FURNACE  PLANT  of  the  Interlake  Iron  Corporation 
(L),  south  foot  59th  Ave.  W.,  supplies  gas  to  the  city. 

Retrace  on  59^  Ave.  W.;  L.  on  Raleigh  St.;  R.  on  6^rd  Ave.  W. 

The  KLEARFLAX  LINEN  LOOMS,  INC.  (L),  cor.  Grand  Ave. 
(open  daily  except  Sat.  and  Sun.  10  a.  m.  to  2  p.  m.)y  the  only  plant  of  its 
kind  in  the  country,  manufactures  carpets  and  other  floor  coverings  from 
linen,  wool  and  cotton  yarns. 

L.  on  Grand  Ave. 

FAIRMOUNT  PARK,  56  acres,  cor.  72nd  Ave.  W.  affords  a  fine  natural 


DULUTH  115 

setting  for  the  DULUTH  ZOO  (R)  (open  daily  8  a.  m.  to  8  p.  m.).  Larger 
animals  are  kept  in  the  round  Big  House,  while  the  Little  House,  crescent 
in  shape,  is  for  smaller  animals.  Included  in  the  collection  are  monkeys, 
zebus  (sacred  cattle  of  India),  elephants,  guanacos,  giraffes,  polar,  grizzly, 
and  brown  and  black  bears,  in  addition  to  native  Minnesota  animals. 
Oddly  enough,  jungle  animals  such  as  the  lion  and  tiger  appear  to  have 
become  acclimated  to  the  cold  northern  winters;  most  of  them  spend  some 
time  outdoors  the  year  around. 

The  suburb  RIVERSIDE  (L),  bet.  Calais  and  Gogebic  Sts.,  developed 
around  a  ship-building  plant  which  operated  there  during  the  first  World 
War. 

Grand  Ave.  becomes  y^rd  Ave.  W.;  9$rd  Ave.  W.  becomes  Arbor  St.; 
R.  on  88th  Ave.  W. 

MORGAN  PARK  was  built  by  the  Minnesota  Steel  Company  as  a 
model  city  for  its  employees. 

One  of  Minnesota's  largest  factories,  the  AMERICAN  STEEL  AND 
WIRE  COMPANY  PLANT  (L),  1434  88th  Ave.  W.  (guides  on  applica- 
tion at  office  or  gatehouse),  is  a  subsidiary  of  the  U.  S.  Steel  Corporation. 
The  plant  is  open  to  visitors,  who  may  watch  the  transformation  of  Minne- 
sota iron  ore  into  steel,  steel  into  wire.  From  the  East  comes  the  coking 
coal,  from  Michigan  comes  the  limestone,  and  manganese,  so  essential  to 
manufacture  of  high-grade  steel,  is  imported  from  abroad. 

Before  crude  iron  ore  can  be  turned  into  a  finished  product,  it  has  to 
go  through  many  refining  and  shaping  processes.  The  first  step  is  to 
purify  the  ore;  the  preliminary  action  is  to  remove  the  oxides  at  a  tem- 
perature of  3,000  degrees  F.,  the  melted  ore  being  drawn  from  the  bottom 
of  the  furnace.  The  purification  process  continues  in  open-hearth  furnaces, 
and  the  iron  is  drawn  off  to  cool  into  ingots.  These  ingots  are  heated  again 
and  forced  by  enormous  pressure  into  blooms,  heavy  sections  which  are 
later  lengthened  and  made  thinner  in  the  billet  mill.  By  this  time,  the 
product  is  beginning  to  assume  its  final  shape — flat,  round  or  square  bars, 
small  angles,  T-bars,  reinforcing  bars  or  fence  posts — depending  upon  the 
process  it  goes  through  in  the  merchant  mill.  Wire  is  made  in  the  rod  mill. 
After  passing  through  various  solutions,  it  is  tempered  in  ovens,  and  then 
drawn  through  dies  of  different  sizes.  The  finished  product  may  be  any 
one  of  900  different  sizes  of  nails,  or  more  than  100  kinds  of  woven  or 
barbed  wire. 

An  interesting  Indian  legend  is  associated  with  SPIRIT  ISLAND  (L), 
which  lies  in  Spirit  Lake,  a  widening  of  the  St.  Louis  River  east  of  Morgan 
Park.  While  the  Sioux  and  the  Chippewa  were  at  war,  long  before  the 
coming  of  the  whites  to  the  territory,  the  son  of  a  Sioux  chieftain  eloped 
to  the  island  with  a  Chippewa  princess.  A  pursuit  party,  landing  there 
next  morning,  could  find  no  trace  of  the  lovers.  The  savages,  attributing 
their  disappearance  to  supernatural  causes,  named  the  place  Spirit  Island. 

R.  on  Idaho  St.,  L.  on  Hilton  St.;  Hilton  St.  becomes  Commonwealth 
Ave. 

The  UNIVERSAL  ATLAS  CEMENT  COMPANY  PLANT  (L),  2402 


Il6  THE     MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD     COUNTRY 

Commonwealth  Ave.  (visitors  by  appointment) ,  another  subsidiary  of  the 
U.  S.  Steel  Corporation,  started  operation  in  1916. 

R.  on  Gary  St.;  L.  on  loqth  Ave.  W. 

A  red  brick  Byzantine-style  building,  ST.  GEORGE'S  SERBIAN 
ORTHODOX  CHURCH  (L),  1218  io4th  Ave.  W.,  is  unique  in  that  the 
liturgies  are  recited  in  old  Slavonic  and  the  sermons  are  delivered  in 
Serbian. 

Retrace  on  xo^th  Ave.  W.,  and  Gary  St.;  R.  on  Commonwealth  Ave.; 
L.  on  McCuen  St. 

The  only  double-decked  bridge  at  the  head  of  the  lakes,  the  DULUTH- 
OLIVER  BRIDGE  (no  toll  charge)  is  owned  by  the  Duluth,  Missabe  and 
Iron  Range  Railroad.  It  leads  to  South  Superior. 

Retrace  on  McCuen  St.;  L.  on  Commonwealth  Ave.;  Commonwealth 
Ave.  becomes  State  25. 

FOND  DU  LAC,  dating  back  to  1793,  is  one  of  the  historic  spots  of 
Minnesota.  This  neat  modern  suburb  adjoining  the  St.  Louis  River  was 
once  an  important  fur  trading  post  of  the  Astor  Company.  To  this  place  in 
1834  came  the  Reverend  Edmund  F.  Ely,  to  conduct  a  school  and  mission; 
two  years  later  his  wife  gave  birth  to  the  first  white  child  born  in  the 
Arrowhead.  In  that  year,  too,  the  spot  was  visited  by  General  James  Dick- 
son,  one  of  the  half-legendary  characters  of  the  American  frontier,  then 
engaged  in  forming  his  "Liberating  Army  of  the  Indian  Nations."  Calling 
himself  Montezuma  II,  Dickson  was  on  his  way  to  Pembina  on  the  Red 
River,  to  recruit  an  army  of  half-breeds  to  free  Texas  from  Mexican 
Sovereignty;  after  that,  he  planned  to  set  up  an  Indian  Empire  in  Cali- 
fornia, wresting  that  territory  also  from  Mexico. 

Now  under  development  at  Fond  du  Lac  is  a  winter-sports  area  which, 
when  completed,  should  rival  the  Nation's  best.  Topographical  conditions 
are  ideal.  There  is  a  325^001  ski-jump  hill  for  experts,  topped  by  a 
scaffold  62  feet  high,  and  a  number  of  gentler  slopes  for  novices;  there  is 
also  a  toboggan  slide  half  a  mile  long,  and  a  hill  for  slalom  racing,  one 
of  the  best  in  the  country.  Most  of  Fond  du  Lac's  577  acres  are  under 
development,  including  facilities  for  ice  skating,  dancing,  sleigh  riding  and 
picnic  grounds. 

BALM  O'GILEAD  (R),  cor.  i23rd  Ave.  W.  (open),  is  a  bird  haven 
on  a  small  private  estate. 

L.  on  i^rd  Ave.  W. 

An  Astor  Trading  Post  was  established  in  1817  at  the  SITE  OF  CHIP- 
PEW  A  VILLAGE,  foot  1 33rd  Ave.  W.,  now  marked  by  a  bronze  plaque. 
It  was  here  that  Du  Lhut  stopped  in  1679,  and  here  in  1826  the  first 
Minnesota  Chippewa  treaty  was  signed. 

Retrace  on  i^rd  Ave.  W.;  L.  on  State  23. 

A  REPRODUCTION  OF  A  TYPICAL  ASTOR  TRADING  POST 
is  in  Chambers  Grove  (R).  The  composite  log  stockade  is  a  replica  of  one 
found  at  the  Leech  Lake  Post  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  3);  some  of  the  old 
logs  in  the  structure  bear  the  Astor  stamp.  In  the  grove  is  an  APPLE 
TREE  (mar \ed) ,  one  of  the  oldest  in  the  Arrowhead.  It  was  brought  as 
a  seedling  from  Montreal  by  Francis  Roussain,  factor  of  the  post. 


DULUTH  117 

TOUR  4 
THE  SKYLINE  PARKWAY,  35  miles. 

N.  from  London  Road  (US  61)  on  6oth  Ave.  E.;  R.  on  Superior  St.; 
L.  on  Snivdy  Blvd. 

This  route  for  the  greater  part  follows  the  Skyline  Parkway,  which 
traverses  sections  of  several  well-known  boulevards  and  is  marked  by  a 
uniform  sign  (evergreen  tree  on  aluminum  background). 

Starting  point  of  the  Skyline  Parkway  is  47-acre  LESTER  PARK  (R), 
bet.  London  Rd.  and  Graves  St. 

The  city  of  Duluth  has  planted  50,000  evergreens  in  AMITY  PARK 
(R  and  L)  in  a  reforestation  project  covering  most  of  the  park's  152  acres. 
Here  the  parkway  circles  a  high  cliff,  affording  a  magnificent  view  of  the 
lake  and  lake  shore. 

L.  on  Woodland  Ave.;  L.  on  $th  St. 

Founded  in  1902,  DULUTH  STATE  TEACHERS  COLLEGE  (L), 
2205  E.  5th  St.,  has  an  average  enrollment  of  400  students.  It  trains 
teachers  for  elementary  and  secondary  schools,  with  a  full  four-year  course 
for  Bachelor  of  Education  degree.  A  natural  ravine  is  one  of  many  attrac- 
tive features  of  the  wooded  campus,  which  rests  near  the  brow  of  a  hill 
overlooking  the  lake. 

R.  on  24th  Ave.  E.;  R.  on  qth  St. 

THE  PILGRIM  CONGREGATIONAL  CHURCH  (L),  2310  E.  4th 
St.,  is  of  red-brick  and  sandstone,  built  in  English  Gothic  style.  An  am- 
plifier installed  in  the  belfry  enables  residents  for  blocks  around  to  hear 
the  organ  melodies. 

R.  on  Woodland  Ave.;  L.  on  Skyline  Parkway. 

CHESTER  PARK  (R  and  L),  108  acres  bet.  Chester  Park  Drive  and 
Chester  Parkway,  appeals  primarily  to  the  devotees  of  sport.  At  the  upper 
end  is  the  Park  Bowl  with  skating  rink,  tennis  courts,  toboggan  slide, 
athletic  field,  artificial  ski  jump  and  clubhouse. 

R.  on  Kenwood  Ave. 

Staffed  by  the  Sisters  of  St.  Benedict,  VILLA  SANCTA  SCHOLAS- 
TICA  (L),  cor.  College  Ave.,  has  500  girls  registered  in  its  college  and 
high  school  courses.  In  the  attractive  campus  setting  are  four  English 
Gothic  buildings  of  blue-trap  granite. 

Retrace  on  Kenwood  Ave.;  R.  on  Skyline  Parkway. 

The  A.  P.  COOK  HOUSE  (R),  cor.  5th  Ave.  W.  (open),  is  built  on 
solid  rock,  its  walls  of  Duluth  gabbro.  This  picturesque  estate,  with  its 
stone  walks,  steps  and  fireplace,  resembles  a  terraced  mountainside  manor. 

Weather  reports  and  storm  warnings  are  sent  out  from  the  U.  S. 
WEATHER  BUREAU  STATION  (R),  cor.  7th  Ave.  W.  (open  daily 
except  Sun.  and  holidays  9  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m.). 

L  on  8th  Ave.  W.;  R.  on  $rd  St. 

With  their  own  hands,  in  1927,  the  congregation  of  ST.  PETER'S 
ITALIAN  CHURCH  (Roman  Catholic)  (L),  at  the  cor.  8th  Ave.  W., 
laid  the  blue,  gray  and  yellow  granite  walls  of  the  church  building. 


Il8  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

At  910  W.  3rd  St.  (L)  is  DARLING  OBSERVATORY  (open  by 
appointment).  A  former  Government  engineer,  John  H.  Darling  became 
interested  in  astronomy,  and  built  the  observatory  after  he  retired  in  1913. 
To  insure  public  access  to  its  facilities,  he  enlisted  the  aid  of  the  University 
of  Minnesota  Extension  Division.  Maintenance  is  provided  through  an 
endowment  fund. 

R.  on  loth  Ave.  W.;  L.  on  Skyline  Parkway. 

Scenic  ENGER  PARK  (R  and  L),  330  acres  bet.  loth  and  24th  Aves. 
W.,  includes  the  Enger  Park  Municipal  Golf  Course  and  Enger  Club 
House.  Among  its  attractions  for  sightseers  are  the  TWIN  LAKES. 

R.  on  branch  road  that  circles  bluff;  L.  on  steep  road. 

On  ENGER  PEAK  is  a  6o-foot  observation  tower  of  blue  granite, 
octagonal  in  shape,  from  whose  balconies  the  visitor  has  an  excellent  pano- 
ramic view  of  lake  and  city.  A  ten-foot  beacon  with  visibility  of  25  miles 
tops  the  tower.  The  green  light,  emanating  from  32  vertical  tubes,  was 
first  switched  on  at  the  time  the  tower  was  dedicated  by  Crown  Prince 
Olav  of  Norway,  June  15,  1939.  There  is  a  shelter  house  and  picnic 
ground. 

Retrace  on  steep  road;  L.  on  branch  road  that  becomes  Skyline  Parkway. 

ONEOTA  CEMETERY  (L),  bet.  65th  and  69th  Aves.  W.,  is  the  burial 
place  of  the  seven  Merritt  brothers,  who  discovered  iron  on  the  Mesabi 
Range,  of  George  R.  Stuntz,  discoverer  of  the  Vermilion  Range,  and  many 
other  prominent  figures  in  the  history  of  the  Arrowhead.  It  is  one  of  the 
oldest  burial  grounds  in  Duluth. 

R.  i  mile  on  US  61   (see  Arrowhead  Tour  3);  L.  on  Skyline  Parkway. 

SNIVELY  PARK,  named  for  Samuel  F.  Snively,  a  former  mayor  of 
Duluth,  is  50  acres  of  woodland  through  which  the  parkway  winds  for 
1.2  miles. 

BARDON'S  PEAK  (L),  680  feet  above  lake  level  and  bearing  the 
name  of  a  pioneer  family  at  the  head  of  the  lakes,  offers  a  fine  view  of  the 
western  outskirts  of  the  city  (see  Duluth  Tour  3). 

MAGNEY  PARK  (R  and  L),  300  acres  of  rocky  woodland,  was  named 
in  honor  of  District  Judge  C.  R.  Magney,  at  one  time  mayor  of  Duluth. 
Here  the  first  sign  of  spring  is  the  white-flowered  bloodroot,  as  it  pushes 
its  way  up  through  the  dry  leaf  bed.  In  the  fall,  the  hardwood  trees  of 
the  park  are  riotous  in  their  color  combinations.  Benches,  tables  and  fire- 
places intersperse  the  area. 

ELY'S  PARK  (L),  approximately  the  same  height  as  Bardon's  Peak, 
bears  the  name  of  an  early  missionary.  This  is  a  favorite  lookout  point, 
with  its  view  of  the  bay  and  the  Wisconsin  shoreline  opposite.  Below,  the 
tracks  of  the  Duluth,  Winnipeg  and  Pacific  (Canadian  National)  enter  a 
tunnel  in  the  rock.  Within  a  half  mile,  the  parkway  crosses  five  stone 
bridges  over  MISSION  CREEK,  a  tributary  of  the  St.  Louis  River.  In 
season,  the  road  is  bordered  with  snowy  masses  of  trillium.  For  a  time 
threatened  with  extinction  through  heedless  picking,  trillium  is  now  pro- 
tected by  law  and  is  once  more  abundant. 

The  road  forks;  L.  Branch  leads  to  Fond  du  Lac. 

R.  to  Oldenburg  Parkway;  R.  on  Oldenburg  Parkway. 


« 


MINNESOTA. 

ARROWHEAD  COUNTRY 

<H-H-     ri'-W 


4Jfi 


MINN 

flRR 

COL 


(Above)  SPORTSMEN'S  SHOW  EXHIBIT.  These  exhibits  are  conducted 
each  year  by  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead  Association,  Incorporated,  to 
acquaint  potential  visitors  with  vacation  facilities  in  the  region. 


(Right)  HANDS  ACROSS  THE 
BORDER.  American  and  Cana- 
dian officers  at  "the  line"  on 
the  International  Bridge  at 
International  Falls. 


(Above}  SMALL  ARROWHEAD  POULTRY  FARM.  Minnesota  is  rapidly 
gaining  a  place  in  poultry  raising  equal  to  that  which  she  holds  among 
the  states  in  dairy  farming.  The  Arrowhead,  particularly  in  the  Aitkin 
area,  has  figured  prominently  in  this  gain. 


(Below)  ARROWHEAD  POTATOES  IN  BLOOM.  These  famous  potatoes 
have  won  high  honors  and  prizes  wherever  exhibited.  The  field  shown 
here  is  situated  near  Deer  River,  Itasca  County.  The  Potato  Festival  at 
Grand  Rapids  is  an  important  annual  event. 


...„...„.      -       •?,*•:!       '~i&  »    ;    SP 


ELY  119 

Henry  Oldenburg,  after  whom  this  section  of  Skyline  Parkway  is 
named,  was  a  pioneer  Carlton  attorney  who  was  largely  responsible  for 
establishment  of  Jay  Cooke  State  Park. 

The  TRADING  POST  CEMETERY  (no  longer  in  use),  within  a 
white  picket  fence,  was  the  first  in  Duluth.  Established  as  the  Roussain 
(see  Duluth  Tour  3)  family  burying  ground,  it  also  has  a  number  of  Indian 
graves. 

JAY  COOKE  STATE  PARK  (R  and  L),  is  3,375  acres  of  rugged, 
creek-veined  woodland.  The  parkway  here  follows  the  roadbed  of  the  old 
St.  Paul  and  Duluth  Railroad  along  the  ST.  LOUIS  RIVER  GORGE. 
Created  a  quarter  of  a  century  ago  by  a  grant  of  2,000  acres  from  the 
estate  of  the  railroad  financier,  Jay  Cooke,  the  park  was  expanded  to  its 
present  size  through  subsequent  acquisitions  of  land  by  the  State. 

LOOKOUT  POINT  (L)  is  a  favored  resort  of  sightseers  seeking  a 
comprehensive  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  From  here,  ridges  that 
mark  the  successive  shorelines  of  receding  Lake  Duluth  (see  Geology)  are 
clearly  visible.  Nearby  are  vestiges  of  two  portage  trails  used  by  early 
voyageurs  in  making  their  way  up  the  St.  Louis  River  (see  Flood  wood). 

Beyond  Lookout  Point  is  a  PLAQUE  memorializing  the  work  of  Henry 
Oldenburg  in  the  acquisition  and  development  of  this  area.  Overnight 
camping  in  tent  or  trailer  is  permitted  at  a  TOURIST  CAMPSITE.  Many 
excellent  springs  along  the  road  are  indicated  by  signs. 

Widely  known  is  the  SWINGING  BRIDGE  (L),  a  boardwalk  sus- 
pended by  steel  cables  from  stone  towers.  Near  it  is  a  shelter  house  for 
picnickers,  while  swimmers  enjoy  the  deep,  cool  pools  underneath  the 
bridge. 

R.  on  three-mile  for\. 

Near  the  village  of  Thomson  (see  Carlton)  is  THOMSON  DAM  (L. 
across  bridge),  by  which  the  Minnesota  Power  and  Light  Company  pro- 
vides power  for  Duluth.  When  the  water  is  not  too  high,  fishermen  take 
splendid  catches  below  the  dam.  Interesting  color  effects  are  formed  by 
the  quartz  and  slate  rock  formations  in  the  vicinity. 

CARLTON  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  3). 


*&J0r*^0^0KjQK'0r*^<jO^&^^ 


Ely 


Arrowhead  Tour  4- 

Railroad  station:     Duluth,  Missabe  &  Iron  Range,  cor.  Camp  St.  and  ist  Ave.  E. 
Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  23  E.  Chapman  St. 

Airport:     Auxiliary,  State  i,  1.5  miles  E.;  two  2,6oo-foot  runways;  no  hangar  or  servic- 
ing; fuel  available  by  telephoning  Ely. 

Accommodations:     Four  hotels;  municipal  tourist  camp,  cor.  Lawrence  St.  and  Central 
Ave. 


I2O  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD     COUNTRY 

Information  service:     Ely  Commercial  Club,  Community  Center  Bldg.,  30  S.  ist  Ave.  E. 
Golf:     Shagawa  Country  Club  (open  to  public),  700  S.  Central  Ave.;  9  holes. 
Swimming:     Municipal  beach,  cor.  Lawrence  St.  and  Central  Ave. 

Annual  events  (exact  dates  vary):     Ski  Tournament,  January,  February;  Winter  Car- 
nival, February;  Yugoslav  Convention  and  Picnic,  July;  Community  Fair,  August. 

GATE  TO  THE  SPORTSMAN'S  EDEN 

Ely  (1,417  alt.,  5,970  pop.)  is  the  "capital"  of  the  Vermilion  Range. 
Its  personality  is  reflected  by  the  towering  black  headframes  of  underground 
mines  and  the  surrounding  lakes  of  the  Superior  National  Forest.  The 
town  was  named  in  honor  of  Samuel  P.  Ely,  who  was  prominent  in  the 
development  of  local  mining  properties. 

In  1886,  iron  ore  was  discovered  at  the  South  Chandler  Mine  (inactive), 
which  was  started  as  an  open  pit.  A  town  site  was  platted  the  following 
spring,  only  accessible  from  Tower  {see  Tower)  over  lakes,  then  through 
forests  on  an  Indian  foot  trail  that  wound  deviously  for  25  miles  to  avoid 
bogs  and  marshes.  That  winter  the  effort  was  made  to  bring  supplies  neces- 
sary for  the  entire  summer  in  one  trip  on  sleds  over  the  lakes,  but  the  little 
community  grew  fast  and  a  wagon  road  had  to  be  cut. 

In  1888,  the  Duluth  and  Iron  Range  Railroad  (see  Two  Harbors), 
already  linking  the  other  mining  settlements,  was  extended  to  the  new 
village,  which  numbered  only  177  persons,  and  the  town  began  a  steady 
growth.  Ore  was  shipped  from  the  Pioneer  Mine  in  1889;  from  the  Zenith 
in  1892,  and  from  the  Sibley  in  1899.  In  1891,  the  village  had  been  desig- 
nated a  city,  and  by  1910  its  population  was  3,572. 

Iron-ore  mining  is  still  the  main  industry.  Since  its  famous  mines  are 
of  the  underground  type,  permitting  operation  in  all  seasons,  the  city  is  a 
year-round  mining  town.  In  underground  mining,  a  shaft,  reinforced  by 
permanent  wooden  or  concrete  sides,  is  sunk  outside  the  ore  body  at 
various  points,  and,  from  it,  drifts  (tunnels)  are  driven  horizontally  to  the 
deposit.  Raises  (openings)  are  bored  upward  and  sub-drifts  made,  until 
the  ore  body  is  honeycombed;  then  the  ore  between  the  sub-drifts  is  blasted 
out  and  dragged  to  the  main  shaft  by  scrapers  or  pulled  by  air-driven 
electric  hoists.  The  ore  is  dumped  into  steel  skips  (boxes),  hoisted  to  the 
surface  and  emptied  into  cars  for  distribution  to  the  stock  piles. 

Thirteen  miles  southeast  of  the  city's  boundaries,  on  State  i,  a  native 
black  granite  is  quarried.  This  is  one  of  the  few  important  quarries  in 
the  Minnesota  Arrowhead  country  (see  Mountain  Iron;  Coot(). 

Farming  is  growing  in  importance  in  the  Ely  area,  especially  in  the 
White  Iron  Lake  district. 

Ely's  first  school  was  opened  in  1889  with  Miss  Wilson  from  Duluth 
as  its  first  teacher.  Today  the  school  campus  (500  E.  Harvey  St.)  covers 
four  blocks  and  contains  the  attractively  grouped  buildings  of  the  Washing- 
ton, Industrial,  Memorial  High,  and  Junior  College.  Three  State  champion 
divers  received  their  training  in  the  Memorial  High  swimming  pool,  and 
several  widely  known  athletes  trained  in  its  gymnasium. 

Ely's  City  Hall  (205  E.  Chapman  St.),  of  Indiana  limestone  in  a 
modernistic  design,  erected  in  1930,  houses  all  city  departments  and  serves 


EMBARRASS  121 

as  St.  Louis  County's  part-time  auxiliary  courthouse.  The  motorized  volun- 
teer fire  department  is  the  largest  of  its  kind  in  the  State.  A  municipally 
owned  water  and  light  plant  supplies  electricity  and  water  to  city  con- 
sumers. The  Community  Center  Building,  maintained  for  community 
activities,  houses  the  Public  Library,  Ely  Commercial  Club,  and  Tourist 
Bureau. 

The  South  Slavonic  Catholic  Union,  organized  as  a  local  venture  in 
1898,  maintains  national  headquarters  here  (cor.  4th  Ave.  E.  and  Harvey 
St.).  The  building,  erected  in  1934,  is  of  pink  Kasota  stone  in  a  modern 
American  design. 

At  Sandy  Point  (Sandy  Point  Rd.,  1.5  miles),  on  Shagawa  Lake,  is  the 
Oliver  Iron  Mining  Company's  recreational  park  with  playground  ap- 
paratus, a  pavilion,  and  a  bathing  beach.  Whiteside  Park  (Harvey  St.  bet. 
7th  and  8th  Aves.  E.),  a  ten-acre  square,  is  another  recreational  area. 

Ely  in  recent  years  has  developed  an  extensive  tourist  trade.  Fishermen, 
hunters,  and  canoeists,  starting  into  the  Superior  National  Forest,  use 
Ely  as  a  base  of  supplies.  Its  many  resorts  offer  accommodations  at  a 
wide  range  of  prices.  Many  tourists  visiting  the  territory  now  travel  by 
plane;  hydroplane  fishing  trips  are  becoming  popular.  Three  planes, 
equipped  with  pontoons,  take  fishing  parties  from  Shagawa  Lake  to  remote 
lakes  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Information  for  Canoeists). 

Ely  is  reached  by  good  hard-surfaced  highways. 


1sGr^Qr*^rK0rK0^Vs0r*s0r«42rx0^ 


Embarrass 


Arrowhead  "Tour  4- 

Railroad  station:     Duluth,  Missabe  &  Iron  Range,  junction  Pike-Embarrass  Rd.  and  Co. 

Rd.  21. 

Information  service:     Cooperative  Store,  junction  Co.  Rds.  21  and  301  (part  time  only). 

Tennis:    St.  Louis  County  School  70,  junction  Co.  Rds.  21  and  104. 

Annual  events  (exact  dates  vary):     Winter  Frolic,  February;  Embarrass-Pike  Community 

Fair,  September. 

THE  ARROWHEAD'S  FINLAND 

Embarrass  (1,427  alt.,  unincorporated),  a  railway  station  and  post  office 
in  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Embarrass  River  (named  by  French  fur  traders 
because  of  the  difficulties  it  presented  to  canoeists),  is  in  Embarrass  Town- 
ship, whose  population  of  652  includes  only  two  persons  who  are  not  Finns. 

The  first  white  visitors  were  fur  traders  who  paddled  along  the  Em- 
barrass River  to  and  from  their  posts.  For  many  years  the  valley  lay 
uncultivated  and  unoccupied,  and  even  in  1895  there  were  only  two  men 
living  on  the  site  of  the  future  Embarrass. 


122  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

Among  the  foreign  born  who  migrated  to  the  mining  regions  for  work 
were  many  Finns.  Some  did  not  like  mining,  and  others  were  eager  to 
farm;  so,  attracted  by  the  similarity  between  the  valley  and  their  homeland, 
a  group  left  the  mining  communities  and  settled  along  the  Embarrass 
River.  Here  they  homesteaded,  cutting  the  dense  forests  of  pine  and 
draining  the  cedar  swamps.  Embarrass  Township  was  organized  in  1905, 
but  there  is  still  no  incorporated  village. 

The  chief  industries  are  farming  and  logging.  Certified  seed  potatoes 
raised  here  are  among  the  best  in  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead.  Dairying  and 
chicken  and  turkey  raising  are  carried  on  extensively.  A  considerable 
amount  of  pulpwood  is  shipped  from  this  section. 

With  the  coming  of  so  many  Finns,  Embarrass  naturally  took  on  many 
of  the  characteristics  of  Finland.  The  buildings  of  the  small  farms  that  dot 
the  valley  are  roofed  with  birch  bark  weighted  down  by  slender  poles. 
To  build  a  haystack,  a  pole  three  or  four  inches  thick  and  from  15  to  20 
feet  long  is  driven  into  the  ground,  and  around  it  a  log  "flooring"  is  laid. 
When  the  hay  stacked  on  this  floor  reaches  a  height  of  from  12  to  14  feet, 
mountain  ash  or  alder  twigs,  attached  to  the  pole,  are  pulled  over  the 
stack  to  hold  it  in  place.  These  "gumdrop"  haystacks  give  the  valley  a 
foreign  appearance. 

An  essential  part  of  each  Finnish  farm  is  the  sauna,  or  bathhouse  {see 
Arrowhead  Tour  3).  Usually  a  log  structure,  8  x  10  feet,  it  is  considered 
of  such  importance  that  often  it  is  built  before  the  house  itself.  Steam 
for  the  bath  is  generated  by  dousing  hot  stones  with  water.  Soap  and 
brushes  are  used  vigorously,  and  in  many  cases  the  bather  swishes  himself 
with  cedar  boughs  to  stimulate  perspiration.  The  bath  is  completed  with 
a  pail  of  cold  water  or,  for  the  more  hardy,  a  plunge  into  a  snowbank. 

Some  of  the  older  Finns  still  practice  native  handicrafts.  Wool-felt  boots 
for  wear  inside  rubbers  are  made.  They  are  pressed  and  pasted  on  a  foot- 
shaped  mold,  and  are  black,  white,  or  gray  because  no  dye  or  substitutes 
are  used.  These  are  sold  at  the  Embarrass  Cooperative  Store  (junction  Co. 
Rds.  21  and  301). 


<*0^G^&^&^0^0r*J0^&V<Gr>^&<<&^^ 


Eveleth 


Arrowhead  Tour  2. 

Railroad  station:     Duluth,  Missabe  &  Iron  Range,  Fayal  Rd.  bet.  Lincoln  and  Grant 

Aves. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  402  Grant  Ave. 

Taxis:     Two  cab  lines  offer  service  within  city  limits  and  to  surrounding  territory. 

Accommodations:     One  hotel;  municipal  tourist  camp,  Eveleth  Lake  Park,  US  53,  2.5 

miles  S.,  on  lake  shore;  numerous  tourist  homes. 

Information    service:  Eveleth   Chamber   of   Commerce    (all-year   bureau),    225 Vz    Grant 

Ave.;  (summer  bureau),  Eveleth  Lake  Park. 


E  V  E  L  E  T  H  123 

Recreation   facilities:     Recreational   Bldg.,   cor.   Adams   Ave.   and   Garfield   St.;   Hippo- 
drome, Douglas  Ave.;  municipal  and  school  playgrounds. 
Hockey:     Hippodrome. 

Golf:     Municipal,  US  53,  2.5  miles  S.,  on  St.  Mary's  Lake;  9  holes. 
Swimming:     Municipal  beach,  Eveleth  Lake  Park. 

Tennis:     Eveleth  Junior  College  Courts,  Jones  St.  bet.  Elba  and  Fayal  Aves. 
Rifle  range:     Franklin  School  basement. 

Annual  events:  Winter  Sports  Carnival,  February  (exact  dates  vary);  Curling  Bonspiel; 
Arrowhead  Hockey  Tournament;  Northern  Minnesota  Tennis  Tournament;  Municipal 
Kittenball  Tournament;  Range  Bocce  Ball  Tournament;  Range  Archery  Tournament; 
Water  Sports  Carnival;  Farmers'  Day  Fair,  September  (exact  dates  vary). 

UNDERGROUND  AND  OPEN  PITS 

Eveleth  (1,574  ah-»  6,887  P°P-)>  tne  "Hill  Top  City,"  was  named  for 
Erwin  Eveleth,  a  lumberman  from  Michigan  who  had  been  sent  to  pur- 
chase pine  lands  in  the  region. 

In  1893,  with  the  discovery  of  iron  ore  in  the  region,  a  town  site  was 
platted  and  incorporated  about  a  mile  southwest  of  the  present  location, 
on  land  now  included  in  the  Adams-Spruce  Mine  (Douglas  Ave.  bet.  Jones 
and  Monroe  Sts.).  Unfortunately,  the  disastrous  financial  panic  of  that 
year  almost  coincided  with  the  founding,  and  the  tiny  settlement  was  hard 
pressed  to  survive.  No  new  buildings  were  added  to  the  four  or  five  that 
formed  the  nucleus,  and  at  times  food  was  so  scarce  residents  are  reported 
to  have  existed  solely  on  moose  meat.  Mail  service  was  practically  discon- 
tinued; the  only  letters  to  arrive  came  by  way  of  Virginia  on  dog  sleds. 

The  first  council  meeting  was  held  in  the  back  room  of  a  store  Octo- 
ber 25,  1894;  the  village  hall,  built  a  year  later,  was  a  two-story  frame 
building  that  cost  $659.69.  The  first  school,  a  frame  shack,  was  opened  in 
1895,  and  Florence  Kent  was  the  first  teacher. 

In  1895,  ore  was  discovered  beneath  the  town  site,  and  five  years  later 
the  village  was  moved  to  its  present  location.  Men  of  all  nationalities 
worked  side  by  side  in  the  mines.  From  1900  to  1910,  the  population  in- 
creased from  2,752  to  7,036. 

The  community  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1902.  When  a  new  ceme- 
tery became  a  necessity,  the  problem  was  where  to  locate  it,  for  valuable 
ore  might  turn  up  almost  anywhere.  While  the  city  fathers  had  no  com- 
punction in  moving  houses  of  the  living,  they  did  object  to  disturbing  the 
resting  places  of  the  dead.  Finally,  after  exhaustive  experiments  proved 
that  a  certain  section  had  no  potential  mineral  wealth,  it  was  designated  as 
a  graveyard,  and  thus  far  no  other  annoying  conflict  between  sentiment  and 
riches  has  arisen  (see  Hibbing). 

Mining  still  is  Eveleth's  chief  industry.  The  open-pit  method  is  the 
favored  process  here,  and  visitors  can  view  the  colorful,  man-made  excava- 
tions, from  whose  depths  millions  of  tons  of  iron  ore  have  been  taken  and 
hauled  by  rail  to  Duluth.  The  Adams-Spruce  Mine,  a  combination  of 
seven  properties,  is  operated  by  both  underground  and  open-pit  methods. 
The  Leonidas  (Co.  Rd.  20,  two  miles  northwest),  the  deepest  underground 
mine  on  the  Mesabi  Range,  has  reached  a  depth  of  over  650  feet. 

Agriculture  and   dairying  are   becoming   increasingly   important,  and 


124  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

Eveleth  is  the  center  of  a  prosperous  farming  district  from  which  large 
quantities  of  dairy  and  other  farm  products  are  shipped  daily. 

Among  the  city's  outstanding  public  buildings  is  the  City  Hall,  erected 
in  1906  and  remodeled  in  1921  at  a  cost  of  $60,000.  Eveleth's  nine  schools 
include  a  junior  college  and  high  school  and  a  manual  training  school 
erected  in  1914  (Roosevelt  Ave.  bet.  Jones  and  Jackson  Sts.),  the  first  in 
the  State  devoted  entirely  to  boys'  shop  work.  The  Public  Library,  in 
Memorial  Park  (McKinley  Ave.  bet.  Fayal  Rd.  and  Pierce  St.),  with  more 
than  22,500  volumes,  is  one  of  the  most  modern  and  complete  in  the 
Arrowhead.  The  Recreational  Building  was  the  first  of  its  kind  on  the 
Mesabi  Range.  The  Hippodrome,  recently  remodeled  at  a  cost  of  approxi- 
mately $160,000,  is  probably  the  only  one  of  its  kind  in  Minnesota.  This 
building  is  used  as  a  hockey  arena  and  equipped  with  an  ice  plant.  It  is 
convertible  into  a  dance  hall  and  is  also  used  for  basketball  tournaments. 

Eveleth  is  the  "hockey  capital  of  the  nation"  and  has  produced  such 
hockey  greats  as  Ching  Johnson,  Frank  Brimsek,  and  Mike  Karakas.  The 
Eveleth  teams  are  members  of  the  International  American  League  and 
Northern  Amateur  League.  The  Eveleth  High  School  and  Junior  College 
teams  have  been  taking  State  and  national  honors  annually  in  hockey. 

Eveleth  has  three  beautiful  parks:  Memorial,  six  acres,  with  a  $6,000 
band  shell;  Northside  (junction  US  53  and  Adams  Ave.),  65  acres,  where 
the  Hearding  log  cabin,  Eveleth's  first  structure,  stands;  and  Eveleth  Lake 
Park,  200  acres. 


1j0>*4?^0*<0^0*4>V^<,e>*<0*0K0r*4r^^^ 


Floodwood 


Arrowhead  Tour  2. 

Railroad  station:     Great  Northern,  junction  US  2  and  yth  Ave. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  yth  Ave.  bet.  Pine  and  Elm  Sts. 

Accommodations:     One  hotel. 

Information  service:     Congress  Hotel,  cor.  Pine  St.  and  yth  Ave. 

Rifle  range:     Floodwood  Gun  Club,  cor.  Fir  St.  and  8th  Ave. 

Annual  events  (exact  dates  vary) :    Water  Carnival,  August;  Community  Fair,  September. 


AT  THE  BEND  OF  THE  RIVER 

Floodwood  (1,257  alt.,  571  pop.),  at  the  junction  of  the  St.  Louis,  Flood- 
wood,  and  Savanna  rivers,  once  a  typical  logging  town,  is  now  an  agricul- 
tural center. 

This  was  one  of  the  strategic  points  in  the  earliest  days  of  the  Minnesota 
Arrowhead,  for  it  is  near  the  westernmost  bend  of  the  St.  Louis  River, 
one  of  the  main  waterways  traveled  by  fur  traders.  They  paddled  from 
Fond  du  Lac  (see  Duluth  Tour  5)  on  the  St.  Louis  River,  then  into  the 


GILBERT  125 

East  Savanna;  from  there  they  portaged,  over  the  once  famous  Savanna 
Portage,  about  six  miles  across  swamps  to  the  West  Savanna,  and  thence 
to  Big  Sandy  Lake  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  3;  McGregor)  and  the  Mississippi 
River.  Daniel  Greysolon,  Sieur  du  Lhut,  may  have  traveled  this  route  in 
1679.  Others  were  Perrault,  who  made  many  trips  over  it  between  1784 
and  1794,  the  Cass  Expedition  in  1820,  and  Schoolcraft  in  1832. 

Ancient  mounds,  almost  obliterated  by  sawmill  operations,  have  been 
found  in  the  vicinity,  indicating  predecessors  to  the  Sioux  and  Chippewa, 
who  were  living  within  the  region  when  the  first  white  man  came. 

As  soon  as  it  was  known  that  a  railroad  was  to  pass  through  the  area, 
homesteads  were  acquired  (1889),  and  Floodwood  came  into  existence. 
There  is  some  doubt  whether  the  first  settler  was  Bob  Sutherland,  cook  for 
the  construction  crew  laying  the  Duluth  and  Winnipeg  Railroad,  or  Jean  W. 
New,  who  was  engaged  by  the  crew  to  hunt  deer  and  moose  for  their 
camps. 

Although  it  is  probable  there  had  been  early  logging  operations  in  the 
area,  large-scale  activities  did  not  begin  until  after  the  building  of  the  rail- 
road in  1890,  when  J.  C.  Campbell  started  to  operate  here.  In  that  year,  too, 
the  C.  N.  Nelson  Lumber  Company  of  Cloquet  built  the  first  logging  rail- 
road in  the  district,  but  it  operated  only  in  winter.  The  Nelson  Company 
continued  until  1894,  when  the  Weyerhauser  interests  purchased  its 
holdings. 

Floodwood  grew  and  in  1899  was  incorporated  as  a  village.  For  many 
years  only  the  white  pine,  then  plentiful,  was  considered  marketable.  Later, 
there  was  a  demand  for  tamarack  and  cedar  ties  for  railroad  construction, 
and  paper  mills  began  to  use  more  spruce.  In  1923,  the  last  timber  was 
hoisted  from  the  rivers,  and  by  1926  most  of  the  big  companies  had  com- 
pleted logging  operations  in  the  vicinity.  Much  pulpwood,  however,  is  still 
shipped. 

With  the  passing  of  large-scale  timber  operations,  fertile  farm  lands 
were  developed.  Dairying  has  now  become  the  main  industry,  Floodwood 
having  a  cooperative  creamery,  the  largest  rural  plant  of  its  kind  in  St. 
Louis  County. 

Floodwood  Independent  School  District  No.  19,  with  four  schools  under 
its  jurisdiction,  now  operates  only  one,  Lincoln  Grade  and  High  (Elm  St. 
bet.  3rd  and  4th  Aves.),  in  the  village  limits. 


Gilbert 


Arrowhead  Tour  4« 

Railroad  station:     Duluth,  Missabc  &  Iron  Range,  Nevada  St.  bet.  Broadway  and  ist 

Court  Sts. 

Bus  station:    Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  105  N.  Broadway  St. 


126  THE     MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

Accommodations:     One    hotel;    municipal    tourist   camp,    Hopkins    Park,   State   37,    4 

blocks  W. 

Information  service:     Village  Hall,  15-17  S.  Broadway  St. 

Swimming:     Municipal  beaches,  Cedar  Island  Lake,  Beach  Rd.,  i  mile  S.;  Hopkins  Park. 

Tennis:     Gilbert  High  School,  Summit  St.  bet.  Ohio  and  Iowa  Aves. 

VILLAGE  OF  DESTINY 

Gilbert  (1,593  a^->  2>5°4  P°P-)»  hailed  at  birth  as  the  prospective  "prin- 
cipal city  of  the  range,"  has  been  incorporated  twice  and  involved  in  many 
controversies. 

It  was  inevitable  after  iron  ore  had  been  found  at  Biwabik  (see  Biwabify 
and  points  farther  west  on  the  Mesabi  that  the  section  between  Biwabik 
and  Mountain  Iron  (see  Mountain  Iron)  would  be  explored.  Ore  in  the 
Gilbert  district  was  discovered  as  early  as  1891  at  the  McKinley  Mine 
(inactive),  but  none  was  shipped  until  1896,  when  the  Genoa  (inactive) 
was  opened.  Development  was  slow  because  of  the  hard  taconite  forma- 
tion, quicksand,  and  large  amount  of  water  beneath  the  deposits.  One  of 
the  early  companies  reported  pumping  as  much  as  4,000  gallons  per  minute 
from  one  mine. 

Settlements  soon  grew  near  the  mines,  but  it  was  not  until  1907  that 
the  Gilbert  Townsite  Company,  organized  by  W.  J.  Smith,  J.  A.  Robb, 
C.  E.  Bailey,  and  D.  W.  Freeman,  of  Eveleth,  platted  an  8o-acre  town  site 
at  the  logical  center  of  activity.  They  named  it  in  honor  of  Giles  Gilbert, 
a  fee-owner  of  a  mine  also  bearing  his  name. 

Gilbert  was  incorporated  as  a  village  in  1908,  despite  a  protest  filed  by 
the  Pitt  Iron  Company,  which  insisted  that  part  of  the  area  was  mining 
land,  not  "conditioned  ...  to  be  subjected  to  village  government."  The 
State  Supreme  Court  upheld  the  company,  and  the  newly  elected  village 
officials  were  ousted.  During  this  period,  Gilbert's  population  was  in- 
creased by  an  influx  from  the  town  site  of  Sparta,  one-half  mile  south,  on 
Cedar  Island  Lake,  which  had  been  purchased  by  the  Oliver  Iron  Mining 
Company  when  a  deposit  of  high  grade  ore  was  found  beneath  it.  The 
village  of  Sparta,  organized  in  1897,  was  dissolved  in  1911. 

!A  year  after  its  defeat  by  the  mining  company,  Gilbert  petitioned  suc- 
cessfully for  village  status.  More  trouble  Was  brewing,  however,  for  ani- 
mosity between  the  Gilbert  and  Sparta  factions  kept  the  town  involved  in 
disagreements  for  some  time.  Gilbert  wished  to  annex  more  property, 
increasing  its  valuation  from  less  than  $1,000,000  to  more  than  $5,000,000. 
The  Oliver  Iron  Mining  Company  objected.  This  suit  the  village  won. 

Gilbert  has  been  built  substantially.  The  old  road  that  became  Broad- 
way Street  (State  37)  was  hewn  from  the  stand  of  pine  that  covered  the 
town  site,  and  at  one  time  was  part  of  a  28-mile  boardwalk  connecting  the 
Mesabi  Range  towns.  The  Bailey  Block  (202-214  N.  Broadway  St.),  a 
concrete  structure,  was  the  first  permanent  building  to  be  erected.  The 
Village  Hall,  of  stone  and  brick,  was  built  in  1915  at  a  cost  of  $30,000. 
Modern  public  utilities  have  been  installed,  and  water  is  piped  from  Cedar 
Island  Lake  (Sparta  and  Ely  Lake  Rd.,  1.5  miles  south). 

Four  of  the  eight  schools  in  School  District  No.  18  form  the  Gilbert 


GRAND    MARAIS  127 

campus:  the  High  (built  in  1911),  the  Junior  High,  the  Primary,  and  the 
Technical  (built  in  1916).  The  Technical  School  has  a  swimming  pool, 
two  gymnasiums,  and  excellent  shop-work  facilities  as  well  as  an  agricul- 
tural department.  The  district  employs  60  teachers  and  has  an  enrollment 
of  approximately  1,000.  The  Public  Library  (1-5  S.  Broadway  St.)  is  a 
modern  structure  of  cream-colored  brick. 


<<0Vs0K<0*&V^0^Gr*<0rvJ0rxj0r*<0V0^ 


Grand  Marais 


Arrowhead  Tour  1. 

Bus  station:     Northland   Greyhound  Lines,   Wisconsin   St.  bet.   Broadway  St.  and   1st 

Ave.  W. 

Airport:     Landing   field,   old   US   61,    5   blocks   N.;    2   runways;    no    hangars;    service 

available. 

Accommodations:     Two  hotels;  municipal  tourist  park,  US  61,  7  blocks  W. 

Information  service:     Grand  Marais  Commercial  Club,  US  61  bet.  2nd  and  3rd  Aves.  W. 

Golf:    Maple  Hill  Golf  Course  (open  to  public),  Gunflint  Trail,  3.5  miles  N.;  18  holes. 


WHERE  LAKE  MEETS  FOREST 

Grand  Marais  (616  alt.,  855  pop.),  Cook  County  capital,  is  a  French 
name,  meaning  "big  marsh."  Nestling  along  the  shores  of  a  crescent-shaped 
harbor — in  early  days  a  haven  for  Indians  and  fur  traders — this  picturesque 
village  has  at  times  been  overrun  by  the  waters  of  Lake  Superior. 

The  history  of  Grand  Marais  is  rich  in  the  lore  of  the  fur  traders, 
whose  headquarters  were  only  a  few  miles  away,  at  Grand  Portage,  the 
metropolis  of  the  fur-trading  days  (sec  Grand  Portage).  There  was  no 
settlement  at  Grand  Marais,  as  no  independent  trader  dared  to  build  a  post 
there  until  after  Congress  excluded  all  foreign  companies. 

In  1834,  the  American  Fur  Company  established  a  fishing  station  but 
was  forced  to  abandon  it  in  1842.  Nothing  more  was  heard  of  Grand 
Marais  until  after  the  Treaty  of  La  Pointe  (see  Copper  and  Gold  Explora- 
tion); then  H.  Godfrey,  an  independent  trader  from  Detroit,  opened  a  post 
that  he  operated  for  only  a  few  years.  He  was  in  charge  of  the  first  Grand 
Marais  post  office,  established  in  1856;  but  in  1858  he  resigned,  closed  his 
post,  and  moved  back  to  Detroit. 

Henry  Mayhew  and  Sam  Howenstine,  who  reached  the  site  in  1871, 
were  the  actual  founders  of  the  village.  At  that  time,  the  Grand  Marais 
country  was  still  inaccessible  except  by  boat  or  trail.  In  1879,  a  wagon 
road  between  Duluth  and  Pigeon  River  was  begun,  and  by  1887  it  was 
ready  for  use.  Water  transportation  was  more  feasible,  however,  and 
so  in  1882  the  community  constructed  a  breakwater.  Later,  the  United 
States  Government  took  charge  of  the  harbor  and  built  a  lighthouse. 


128  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

Travel  to  and  from  Grand  Marais  was  mainly  by  way  of  Lake  Superior. 
Even  now  Grand  Marais,  as  well  as  Cook  County,  has  no  railroads  other 
than  those  used  for  logging. 

Lumbering  and  fishing  and  the  tourist  trade  are  the  town's  main  in- 
dustries. Most  of  the  pulpwood  is  shipped  by  boat  to  the  Hammermill 
Paper  Company  at  Erie,  Pennsylvania.  The  bulk  of  the  fish  goes  by  truck 
to  Duluth  for  dressing,  packing,  and  distribution. 

Strangely  enough  Grand  Marais  does  not  secure  its  water  supply  from 
Lake  Superior.  Huge  pipes  carry  it  from  spring-fed  lakes  beyond  the  hills 
to  two  reservoirs  that  store  a  total  of  500,000  gallons. 

The  Federal  Government  maintains  the  North  Superior  Coast  Guard 
Station  (foot  Broadway  St.),  and  Forestry  Office  and  Warehouse  (US  61 
bet.  4th  and  5th  Aves.  W.).  The  offices  of  the  Minnesota  State  Forestry 
Department  and  the  State  Game  and  Fish  Department  occupy  one  building 
(old  State  i  bet.  4th  and  5th  Aves.  W.).  The  Grand  Marais  School  (cor. 
Broadway  and  3rd  Sts.),  the  Public  Library  (cor.  ist  Ave.  W.  and  2nd  St.), 
and  the  Cook  County  Courthouse  (cor.  4th  Ave.  W.  and  2nd  St.)  are 
modern  buildings. 

Grand  Marais  is  the  eastern  "gateway"  to  the  Superior  National  Forest 
and  the  outfitting  point  for  many  canoe  trips  (see  Superior  National  Forest: 
Canoe  Trips}.  The  Gunflint  Trail,  which  ascends  into  the  heart  of  the 
Superior  National  Forest  and  to  the  famous  chain  of  border  lakes,  begins 
here. 


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Grand  Rapids 


Arrowhead  Tour  2. 

Railroad  station:     Great  Northern,  cor.  Pokegama  Ave.  N.  and  3rd  St. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  4th  St.  bet.  Pokegama  Ave.  and  ist  Ave.  E. 

Airports:     Auxiliary,  Lily  Lake  Rd.,  1.5  miles  S.E.;  one  2,500-foot  and  two  2,ooo-foot 

landing  strips;   entire  field   available;   no  service;   Otis  Airfield,   6   air   miles   S.W.,  on 

Sugar  Lake;  one  3,ooo-foot,  one  2,6oo-foot,  and  one  i,6oo-foot  runway;  4-plane  hangar; 

gas  and  oil  service. 

Taxis:    One  cab  line  offers  service  within  village  limits  and  to  surrounding  territory. 

Accommodations:    Three  hotels;  municipal  tourist  camp,  cor.  3rd  Ave.  E.  and  i3th  St. 

N.;  tourist  homes  and  cabins. 

Information  service:     Commercial  Club  Information  Booth,  cor.  4th  St.  and  Pokegama 

Ave. 

Golf:     Pokegama  Country  Club  (open  to  public),  Pokegama  Rd.  (Pokegama  Ave.  S.), 

3  miles  S.,  on  Pokegama  Lake;  9  holes. 

Swimming:     Municipal  beach,  McKinney  Lake,  cor.  3rd  Ave.  W.  and  I5th  St. 

Tennis:     Grand  Rapids  Senior  High  School,  cor.  Pokegama  Ave.  N.  and  roth  St. 

Annual  events:     Ski  Tournament,  January,  February   (exact  dates  vary);  Old  Settlers* 

Dance,  February  12;  Itasca  County  Fair,  latter  part  of  August;  Potato  Day,  latter  part  of 

September. 


CRAND     RAPIDS  129 

FROM  LUMBER  TO  PAPER 

Grand  Rapids  (1,290  alt.,  4,875  pop.),  Itasca  County  seat,  the  radial 
point  of  several  important  highways,  is  the  home  of  one  of  the  largest  paper 
mills  in  the  Northwest. 

Not  much  lumbering  was  carried  on  in  the  vicinity  until  1860.  The 
heavy  stands  of  Norway  and  white  pine  finally  proved  too  great  a  tempta- 
tion, and,  between  1870  and  1890,  logs  on  their  way  to  sawmills  farther 
south  fairly  choked  the  Mississippi  and  its  tributaries.  Shortly  after  1870, 
Warren  Potter,  the  "Father  of  Grand  Rapids,"  built  a  log  store  building 
at  the  spot,  thus  founding  the  permanent  settlement. 

In  1890,  the  Duluth  and  Winnipeg  Railroad  reached  Grand  Rapids, 
and  so  many  settlers  came  in  its  wake  that  the  village  was  incorporated  in 
1891.  (A  "Golden  Jubilee  Celebration"  of  the  event  drew  crowds  of  visitors 
on  July  1 8,  19,  and  20,  1941.)  With  the  discovery  of  iron  ore  on  the 
western  Mesabi  Range  (see  Mountain  Iron),  prospectors  hastened  to  the 
region,  but  lumbering  continued  to  be  the  leading  industry.  In  1894,  tne 
first  railroad  station  was  destroyed  by  fire.  That  same  year,  a  waterworks 
system  was  constructed,  and,  on  Thanksgiving  Eve,  the  Pokegama  Hotel 
was  illuminated  by  the  first  electric  lights  in  the  town.  A  dam  was  built 
at  the  rapids  of  the  Mississippi  in  1899  to  supply  water  power,  and  a  year 
later  lath  and  shingle  mills  commenced  operations  that  continued  until 
1918,  the  date  of  the  last  log  drive  down  the  river  from  the  Itasca  County 
region. 

In  1902,  a  paper  mill  was  erected  that  subsequently  was  taken  over  by 
the  Blandin  Paper  Company  (32  W.  ist  St.;  visitors  not  permitted). 
Remodeled,  of  cream-colored  brick  and  trimmed  with  white  terra  cotta, 
it  is  modern  in  every  respect.  Its  windowless  design  insures  adequate  space 
and  standard  control  of  air-conditioning  and  lighting  facilities — important 
facto-s  in  paper  making.  One  of  the  most  modern  paper  mills  in  the 
Northwest,  the  Blandin  Paper  Company  employs  225  persons;  in  the  last 
20  years  it  has  increased  its  daily  output  from  25  to  150  tons. 

Grand  Rapids,  still  retaining  the  village  form  of  government,  is  a 
thriving,  active  community,  the  trade  center  for  an  extensive  area,  and  the 
outfitting  point  for  sportsmen  en  route  to  beautiful  lake  and  wilderness 
regions  that  surround  it.  The  near-by  Chippewa  National  Forest  (see 
Chippewa  National  Forest)  and  the  Scenic  State  Park  attract  great  numbers 
of  visitors  each  summer.  Grand  Rapids  is  also  the  supply  depot  for  the 
Minnesota  State  Forestry  Service  (US  2,  one  mile  east)  and  headquarters 
for  the  district  game  warden. 

The  Itasca  County  Fairground  (cor.  3rd  Ave.  E.  and  I3th  St.  N.), 
45  acres  in  extent,  on  the  shore  of  Crystal  Lake,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
fairgrounds  in  Minnesota.  The  Village  Hall  (cor.  Pokegama  Ave.  N.  and 
5th  St.),  of  brick,  concrete,  and  steel,  trimmed  with  terra  cotta,  was  erected 
in  1929  at  a  cost  of  $70,000.  The  Great  Northern  Station,  built  the  same 
year,  is  a  copy  of  the  one  at  Glacier  National  Park.  Opposite  the  station 
is  a  i5,ooo-foot  load  of  pine,  commemorative  of  "The  Last  Load." 

Grand  Rapids  is  the  administration  center  for  School  District  No.  i, 


130  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

in  area  the  largest  organized  school  district  in  the  United  States.  Within 
boundaries  85  miles  apart,  are  65  graded,  consolidated,  and  high  schools. 
Its  school  bus  system  extends  30  miles  and  carries  2,000  pupils.  The  North 
Central  School  of  Agriculture  (US  169,  1.5  miles  northeast),  operated  by 
the  Univerity  of  Minnesota  on  a  3oo-acre  farm,  instructs  about  80  farm  boys 
each  year. 


Hibbing 


Arrowhead  Tour  2. 

Railroad  stations:  Duluth,  Missabe  &  Iron  Range  (North  Hibbing),  south  foot  2nd 
Ave.,  (South  Hibbing),  cor.  Park  St.  and  4th  Ave.;  Great  Northern,  cor.  Wilson  St. 
and  4th  Ave. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  1927  4th  Ave. 

Local  bus  lines:  Mesaba  Transportation  Co.,  630  E.  Howard  St.,  offers  service  between 
North  and  South  Hibbing,  and  Shubat  Transportation  Co.,  704  E.  Howard  St.,  to  min- 
ing locations. 

Airport:  Municipal,  Co.  Rd.  61,  5  miles  E.;  4  runways,  graveled,  oiled,  and  rolled,  all 
200  feet  wide;  well-marked  hangar,  landing  area  flood-lighted;  facilities  for  servicing 
aircraft  during  day  only. 

Taxis:     Two  cab  lines  offer  service  within  village  limits  and  to  surrounding  territory. 
Accommodations:     Fifteen   hotels   and    lodging   houses;    municipal    tourist   camp,   cor. 
Howard  St.  and  i2th  Ave. 

Information  service:     Hibbing  Village  Information  Bureau,  Androy  Hotel. 
Recreational  facilities:     Memorial  Bldg.,  cor.  Adeline  St.  and  4th  Ave. 
Golf:    Municipal,  east  end  Park  St.;  9  holes;  Mesaba  Club,  ist  Ave.,  3  miles  S. 
Tennis:     Municipal  courts,  Memorial  Bldg. 
Rifle  range:     Hibbing  Gun  Club,  Dupont  Rd.,  i  mile  E. 

Annual  events  (exact  dates  vary):  Ski  Tournament,  January;  Winter  Sports  Frolic, 
February;  St.  Louis  County  Fair,  August,  September. 


IRON  ORE  CAPITAL 


Hibbing  (1,537  a^->  ^>3^5  P°P-)>  tne  "iron  ore  capital  of  the  world," 
has  the  world's  largest  and  richest  iron-ore  mine,  the  Hull-Rust-Mahoning 
open  pit. 

Timber  cruisers  were  the  first  white  men  known  to  have  visited  the 
Hibbing  region,  and  they  brought  back  reports  of  ore  outcroppings.  It  has 
been  told  that  a  cruiser,  John  Day,  and  a  companion,  lost  in  the  woods, 
stopped  at  dusk  to  get  their  bearings.  To  Day's  consternation,  his  compass 
whirled  dizzily  wherever  he  moved.  He  remarked  uneasily  that  either  it 
had  gone  crazy  or  iron  must  be  near  by,  adding  that,  if  the  latter  were 
true,  the  iron  never  would  be  used  in  their  day.  That  night  they  camped 
on  a  spot  almost  within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  present  Mahoning  Mine. 
Lumber  companies  noted  the  cruiser's  findings  but  gave  them  little  atten- 
tion, and  when  lots  were  sold,  timber  —  not  iron  —  was  the  attraction. 


HI  BEING  131 

After  the  Vermilion  Range  had  demonstrated  its  wealth,  the  search  for 
iron  ore  spread  westward.  Frank  Ribbing  entered  the  region,  and  in 
1892  men  in  his  employ  discovered  valuable  deposits  where  now  is  located 
the  Burt-Pool  Mine  (old  Sturgeon  Lake  Rd.,  three  miles  north).  The  fol- 
lowing year  he  platted  a  town  site  that  was  incorporated  as  a  village  on 
August  15.  At  first  the  streets  were  practically  impassable  because  of  large 
pine  stumps  and  mud,  and  the  hauling  of  food  supplies  and  equipment 
needed  by  mining,  logging,  and  railroad  operations  was  impeded.  Drink- 
ing water  was  another  problem,  the  nearest  being  three  miles  away,  at 
Carson  Lake.  An  epidemic  of  typhoid  broke  out  in  the  village. 

During  this  period,  all  eyes  were  turned  on  Virginia  (see  Virginia),  and 
few  purchasers  could  be  found  for  Hibbing  property.  During  the  nation- 
wide panic  of  1893,  the  struggling  village  seemed  doomed.  Work  of  any 
kind  was  scarce;  even  the  monthly  wages  of  lumberjacks  ($6-$  12)  were 
paid  in  "due  bills"  not  collectible  until  the  following  January.  There  was 
little  inducement  to  go  into  the  timber,  and  exploration  for  ore  was  reduced 
to  a  minimum.  The  men  still  employed  in  the  Mahoning  Mine  and  those 
who  found  jobs  with  the  newly  organized  Hibbing  Water  and  Light  Com- 
pany were  objects  of  envy.  The  rest  lived  in  hope  of  a  better  future. 

By  the  end  of  1894,  signs  of  increasing  activity  were  evident.  Frank 
Hibbing  advanced  $3,000  for  a  railroad  to  run  from  town  to  the  Mahoning 
pit,  and  in  1895  several  mines  were  opened.  Miners  and  lumberjacks 
swarmed  in  from  Eastern  States  and  European  countries.  Soon  saloons 
outnumbered  stores,  streets  were  dangerous  places  for  the  unwary,  drunks 
slept  on  the  floor  in  the  rear  of  barrooms.  Here,  foremen  would  come  to 
look  over  the  snoring  men,  select  huskies,  and  herd  them  into  mines  and 
lumber  camps. 

The  village  school,  started  in  a  store  in  1893,  was  moved  into  a  building 
of  its  own.  Teachers  probably  never  found  themselves  in  a  more  difficult 
position,  for  many  of  the  children  knew  no  English,  and  the  languages  and 
dialects  they  spoke  were  extremely  varied.  Preachers,  too,  had  great  need 
of  tolerance  and  patience;  generally  they  were  met  by  an  indifference  harder 
to  overcome  than  active  resistance.  However,  if  there  was  little  enthusiasm 
for  religion,  there  was  plenty  of  kindness.  One  Lutheran  pastor,  unable 
to  find  shelter  in  a  home,  was  glad  to  accept  a  portion  of  an  already  crowded 
saloon  floor  proffered  by  a  bartender.  The  early  rector  of  Christ  Memorial 
Church,  of  Hibbing's  edifices  then  the  proudest,  had  a  particularly  trouble- 
some problem.  This  church,  built  in  1895  from  plans  by  Cass  Gilbert, 
designer  of  the  State  Capitol  at  St.  Paul  and  the  Soldiers  and  Sailors 
Monument  at  Duluth  (see  Duluth  Tour  3),  was  presented  to  the  town  as 
a  memorial.  Greeks  and  Montenegrins,  numerous  among  the  miners,  ap- 
parently saw  in  its  ritual  the  nearest  approach  to  their  own,  and  they  chose 
it  for  most  of  their  funerals.  Again  and  again,  the  distracted  minister  was 
confronted  by  a  colorful  procession  that  marched  down  the  aisle  with  bands 
playing  and  banners  flying,  while  over  their  heads  he  could  see  an  overflow 
of  miners  gathered  at  the  doors,  lustily  relieving  aching  hearts  and  thirsty 
throats  with  beer. 

In  the  busy  period  between  1898  and  1900,  the  Swan  River  Lumber 


132  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

Company,  whose  large  camp  with  1,500  men  was  located  one  mile  east  of 
town,  built  a  permanent  sawmill.  Logs  were  transported  to  Ribbing,  and 
the  lumber  was  shipped  by  rail  to  Swan  River  for  the  first  lap  of  the 
journey  down  the  Mississippi. 

By  the  turn  of  the  century,  Hibbing  had  a  population  of  more  than 
2,000,  with  a  constantly  shifting  and  uncounted  army  of  transients.  How- 
ever, the  village  soon  found  itself  in  a  dilemma.  When  platted,  a  site 
thought  to  be  south  of  the  ore  deposits  had  been  selected,  but  now,  beneath 
its  very  streets,  valuable  ore  was  found.  The  Oliver  Iron  Mining  Company, 
a  subsidiary  of  the  United  States  Steel  Corporation,  already  in  control  of 
mineral  rights,  began  to  acquire  all  surface  rights.  By  the  end  of  1910, 
there  was  not  an  available  building  lot.  Mining  operations  had  been  ex- 
panded. The  company  decided  the  town  must  be  moved.  It  chose  a 
location  a  mile  south,  then  known  as  Alice,  and  there  laid  out  and  built  a 
modern  community,  with  lights,  water,  sewers,  and  paved  streets.  In 
1919,  the  move  started.  Some  of  the  old  buildings  were  cut  into  sections, 
transported  piecemeal,  and  put  together  again.  Churches  were  towed 
intact,  arriving  with  spires,  pews,  and  decorations  undisturbed. 

The  shifting  of  the  village  necessitated  a  means  of  transportation  be- 
tween the  old  and  new  towns,  and  a  motor  bus  service  was  started,  the 
nucleus  of  the  Mesaba  Transportation  Company,  later  the  Northland  Grey- 
hound Lines  and  part  of  the  nation-wide  Greyhound  System. 

Many  differences  over  the  question  of  property  compensation  were 
fought  out  in  the  courts  and  legislature,  and  at  last  they  were  settled  by 
a  compromise,  the  "North  Hibbing  Purchase  Plan,"  which  provides  that  the 
company  by  1944  w^  have  acquired  the  surface  rights  of  all  that  part  of  the 
township  known  as  "North  40,"  the  original  Hibbing,  and  this  part  of 
the  town  will  be  razed  to  permit  ore  excavation. 

Hibbing,  in  Stuntz  Township,  has  retained  its  village  status,  because 
Minnesota's  tax  policy  is  more  lenient  toward  communities  of  that  class 
(see  The  Iron  Ore  Ranges). 

More  than  73  mines  have  shipped  ore  from  the  district.  The  Hull-Rust- 
Mahoning  (north  end  3rd  Ave.;  observation  towers;  north  end  2nd  Ave.; 
east  end  Superior  St.;  Town  Rd.,  3.5  miles  northwest),  the  largest  open-pit 
iron-ore  mine  in  the  world,  lies  almost  wholly  within  the  village  limits.  It 
is  three  miles  long,  one  mile  wide,  375  feet  deep  at  its  deepest  point,  covers 
1,100  acres,  and  has  more  than  70  miles  of  railroad  tracks.  More  than 
250,000,000  tons  of  ore  have  been  shipped,  the  excavation  approximating 
231,000,000  cubic  yards — stupendous  when  it  is  realized  that  232,000,000 
is  the  figure  for  the  Panama  Canal. 

The  Hibbing  Technical  and  Vocational  High  School  (Mesaba  St.  bet. 
7th  and  9th  Aves.),  the  second  largest  of  its  kind  in  the  United  States,  is 
nationally  famous.  This  "Monument  to  Education,"  completed  in  1923,  is 
an  E-shaped  structure  with  a  596-foot  frontage.  The  main  section,  or 
north  wing,  contains  classrooms,  laboratories,  and  offices;  the  south  wing 
has  a  library  and  auditorium,  two  gymnasiums,  and  an  indoor  track,  swim- 
ming pools,  and  a  study  hall.  Its  complete  industrial  equipment  makes 
possible  a  wide  range  of  shop  work.  The  auditorium,  whose  seating 


H  I  B  B  I  N  G  133 

capacity  is  1,805,  has  a  modern  pipe  organ  and  a  stage  (40  feet  x  60  feet) 
with  electrically  controlled  settings  and  unusual  lighting  effects.  The 
school,  housing  all  grades  from  kindergarten  through  junior  college,  is 
decorated  by  murals.  One  by  David  Workman,  in  the  library,  depicts 
various  phases  of  the  mining  and  steel  industry;  six  panels  by  David  Eric- 
son,  to  the  left  and  right  of  the  main  entrance,  illustrate  the  history  of 
the  region. 

Park  School  (cor.  Park  St.  and  7th  Ave.),  in  Bennett  Park,  is  called  the 
"Glass  School"  because  of  large  wall  areas  of  structural  glass.  An  electric 
eye  controls  the  lighting  system.  Streamlined  desks  and  chairs  are  movable 
so  that  they  may  be  grouped  informally. 

The  War-Service  Memorial  Building  (open),  of  modern  design,  cover- 
ing an  entire  block,  contains  an  auditorium,  Memorial  Hall;  also,  a  large 
curling  rink,  a  service  club  and  labor  temple  quarters,  a  Little  Theater,  and 
an  arena  with  a  terrazzo  floor  that  can  be  converted  in  ten  hours  into  a 
hockey  rink  with  a  spectator  capacity  of  2,500,  or  into  a  basketball  court 
seating  5,000. 

The  Ribbing  Public  Library  (cor.  Mahoning  St.  and  3rd  Ave.)  was  con- 
structed in  1916  to  replace  one  built  in  1908.  It  is  of  pink  Kettle  River 
sandstone  and  is  decorated  with  many  murals  and  paintings,  among  the 
latter  an  original  by  Tait,  The  Half  on  the  Carry.  A  branch  library  is  main- 
tained in  the  Village  Hall  (cor.  Mesaba  St.  and  5th  Ave.),  and  a  bookmobile 
carries  books  to  all  outlying  districts  of  Stuntz  Township.  The  main 
library  is  still  in  North  Hibbing,  as  are  the  district  headquarters  of  the 
Oliver  Iron  Mining  Company  (ist  Ave.  bet.  Sellers  and  Lincoln  Sts.);  one 
of  St.  Louis  County's  two  full-time  auxiliary  court-houses  (cor.  McKinley 
St.  and  2nd  Ave.);  and  Christ  Memorial  Church  (cor.  Mahoning  St.  and 
4th  Ave.).  All  these  buildings  may  have  to  be  moved.  Christ  Memorial 
Church  already  has  been  moved  once  (1912)  to  make  way  for  mining  opera- 
tions. Transported  stone  by  stone,  it  was  rebuilt  after  the  original  Cass 
Gilbert  design,  except  for  minor  details. 

The  Village  Hall  is  in  striking  contrast  to  the  modern  architecture  of 
the  other  buildings.  Modeled  after  historic  Faneuil  Hall  in  Boston,  it  is  of 
red  finishing  brick.  Four  murals  illustrate  the  history  of  Minnesota  and  the 
mining  industry,  and  two  symbolize  Law  and  Justice.  The  municipal 
power  plant  (cor.  Wilson  St.  and  yth  Ave.)  supplies  water  and  electricity 
and  provides  heat  for  a  large  number  of  dwellings  and  buildings. 

A  tablet  (junction  US  169  and  Co.  Rd.  61)  memorializes  George  R. 
Stuntz  for  his  part  in  the  discovery  of  iron  ore  on  the  Vermilion  Range. 
The  township  also  was  named  in  his  honor. 

Recreational  facilities  are  excellent  in  Hibbing  and  the  surrounding 
district.  The  village  maintains  six  parks,  of  which  Bennett,  47  acres  (Park 
St.  bet.  ist  and  yth  Aves.),  is  the  most  developed.  On  the  east  side  of 
Third  Avenue  Boulevard,  which  traverses  this  park,  is  the  park  depart- 
ment's administration  building,  adjacent  to  which  are  five  greenhouses 
where  370  varieties  of  flowers  and  140  other  kinds  of  plants  are  grown 
and  exhibited.  There  is  also  a  zoo  with  a  variety  of  animals.  On  the 


134  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

west  side  of  the  boulevard  are  two  wading  pools,  a  shelter  house,  a  band- 
stand, and  a  refectory. 

Within  driving  distance  of  the  border  lakes,  the  Mississippi  basin  lakes, 
and  the  Lake  Vermilion  region,  Ribbing  offers  opportunities  for  fishing 
and  hunting,  camping,  and  other  vacation  sports. 


International  Falls 


Arrowhead  Tour  3. 

Railroad  stations:     Big  Fork  &  International  Falls,  cor.  2nd  Ave.  and  4th  St.;  Minne- 
sota, Dakota  &  Western,  cor.  ist  Ave.  and  4th  St. 
Bus  station:     Northern  Transportation  Co.,  Rex  Hotel,  245  3rd  St. 
Airport:     Landing  field,  State   n,   1.25   miles  S.W. 

Taxis:     Two  cab  lines  offer  service  within  city  limits  and  to  surrounding  territory. 
Accommodations:     Four  hotels;  municipal  tourist  camp,  State  n,  3  miles  E.,  on  Rainy 
Lake. 

Information  service:     Tourist  Information  Bureau,  Daily  Journal,  237  3rd  St. 
Go//:     Rainy  Lake  Golf  and  Country  Club   (open  to  public),  State  n,  3.5  miles  W.; 
9  holes. 
Swimming:     Municipal  beach,  municipal  tourist  camp. 

TRAIL'S  END 

International  Falls  (1,124  a^->  5*626  pop.),  Koochiching  County  seat, 
its  pulsing  wood  industry  mills  producing  a  steady  stream  of  products,  is 
the  northernmost  point  in  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead  country.  On  the 
falls  of  the  Rainy  River,  part  of  the  international  border,  it  is  on  the  fringe 
of  a  magnificent  wilderness  area  (see  Superior  National  Forest),  romantic 
with  the  lore  of  fur  traders  who  traveled  the  interior  waterways  in  their 
canoes. 

The  first  white  man  to  visit  the  site  was  Jacques  de  Noyon,  a  French 
voyageur  from  Canada,  who  traveled  over  the  Kaministiquia  Route  to 
Rainy  Lake  and  wintered  at  the  falls  in  1687  or  1688.  He  was  followed 
by  Zacherie  Robutel,  Sieur  de  la  Noue,  and  by  Pierre  Gaultier  de  Varennes, 
Sieur  de  la  Verendrye.  Although  fur-trading  posts  were  built  in  the 
region  at  an  early  date,  they  were  located  on  the  Canadian  side  of  Rainy 
River.  The  date  of  the  first  post  established  on  the  American  side  is  not 
known,  but  it  probably  was  between  1816  and  1822. 

As  the  fur  trade  dwindled,  lumbering  came  into  importance.  Extensive 
stands  of  conifers  covered  the  area.  Logs  were  floated  down  the  Big  and 
Little  Fork  Rivers  to  sawmills  farther  north  (see  Big  Falls;  Little jor\). 
Lumbermen  early  realized  the  value  of  the  falls,  at  the  head  of  an  18,000- 
square  mile  watershed,  as  a  source  of  water  power. 

Some  settlers  came  to  the  region  when  steamboats  began  plying  the 
Rainy  River  as  part  of  the  Dawson  Route,  which  had  been  laid  out  between 


INTERNATIONAL    FALLS  135 

Port  Arthur  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  1)  and  Fort  Garry  (Winnipeg)  in 
1870  and  followed  in  part  the  international  boundary  (see  Superior  National 
Forest:  Canoe  Trip  /).  After  railroad  facilities  were  established  on  the 
Canadian  side,  steamboat  service  on  Rainy  River  was  abandoned,  and  once 
more  the  only  mode  of  water  travel  was  by  canoe.  In  1881,  the  first  home- 
steader, Alexander  Baker,  a  Hudson's  Bay  Company  factor,  filed  a  claim 
on  the  site  of  International  Falls.  The  village  was  incorporated  in  1901. 

In  1904,  a  paper  company  brought  about  joint  control  of  American 
and  Canadian  riparian  rights  and  contracted  for  both  development  of  water 
power  and  establishment  of  manufacturing  industries.  The  falls,  known  as 
Chaudiere  (cauldron)  to  the  French,  had  a  natural  24-foot  drop  and  made 
available  25,000  horsepower  from  a  27-foot  head. 

In  1910,  International  Falls,  with  a  population  of  1,487,  was  incorporated 
as  a  city. 

The  International  Lumber  Company,  a  subsidiary  of  the  Minnesota  and 
Ontario  Paper  Company,  erected  a  sawmill  in  1910.  The  mill,  its  capacity 
300,000  feet  in  a  ten-hour  day,  cut  as  much  as  75,000,000  feet  in  one  year. 
Then  the  largest  in  the  State,  it  ceased  operations  in  1937. 

The  Minnesota  and  Ontario  Paper  Company  (cor.  4th  Ave.  and  2nd 
St.)  manufactures  newsprint,  sulphite,  and  kraft  ground-wood  paper,  all 
of  which  have  nation-wide  markets.  In  1911,  it  began  the  construction  of  a 
railroad  that  today  has  n  locomotives,  400  cars,  35  miles  of  tracks,  and 
provides  employment  for  120  men.  In  1916,  it  built  the  world's  first 
Insulite  mill.  Insulite,  a  wood-fiber  board  used  for  insulation,  was  in  such 
demand  that  in  1925  a  larger  mill  had  to  be  built,  which  has  a  capacity 
of  750,000  board  feet  in  24  hours.  Since  1931,  it  has  been  complemented 
by  a  second  mill  at  Karhula,  Finland. 

The  warehouse  of  the  International  Falls  plant  has  a  storage  capacity 
of  25,000,000  board  feet.  Aspen  is  utilized  in  the  manufacture.  Mando 
(the  trade  name  of  the  Minnesota  and  Ontario  Paper  Company)  maintains 
mills  at  other  points  and  owns  the  world's  largest  cedar  telegraph  pole 
yards  and  treating  plant  at  St.  Paul  (Minnesota  Transfer). 

These  wood  industries  are  the  main  source  of  income  for  International 
Falls,  and  the  city's  industrial  development  is  assured  by  its  water  power 
and  the  wood  supply  held  by  the  Minnesota  and  Ontario  Paper  Company. 

International  Falls  is  headquarters  for  the  three  branches  of  the  U.  S. 
International  Border  Patrol  (Post  Office  Bldg.,  400  4th  St.).  They  can  be 
distinguished  readily  by  the  color  of  their  uniforms:  Immigration,  forest 
green;  Customs,  dark  gray;  and  Customs  Inspection,  dark  blue  (see  General 
Information:  Border  Regulations).  The  Border  Patrol  supervises  the 
350-mile  stretch  from  Pigeon  River  to  Roseau. 

A  curio  collection  in  the  Log  Cabin  Inn  (434  3rd  St.)  displays  inter- 
esting mounted  specimens  of  birds  and  native  animals  in  natural  poses; 
a  moose  that  must  have  weighed  1,000  pounds,  a  black  bear,  a  buck  deer, 
and  the  hides  and  heads  of  bears,  foxes,  and  wolves. 

International  Falls,  a  port  of  entry,  is  rich  in  primeval  beauty,  historic 
lore,  and  natural  resources.  It  is  an  outfitting  center  for  vacationists  and 
sportsmen. 


136  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

**0*&*0^&**0r*J0^&^0*^*<^^ 


Ironton 


Arrowhead  Tour  3. 

Railroad  station:     Minneapolis,  St.  Paul  &  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  and  Northern  Pacific,  cor. 

Winona  Ave.  and  3rd  St. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  cor.  Ironton  Ave.  and  5th  St. 

Taxis:     One  cab  line  offers  service  within  village  limits  and  to  surrounding  territory. 

Accommodations:     Two  hotels. 

Information  service:     Spena  Hotel,  cor.  Ironton  Ave.  and  4th  St. 

Golf:    Cuyuna  Range  Golf  Club,  US  210,  7  miles  S.E.  (Deerwood);  9  holes. 

Tennis:    Ironton  Park,  6th  St.  bet.  Irene  and  Viola  Aves. 


CUYUNA  TWIN 

Ironton  (1,260  alt.,  827  pop.),  on  Serpent  Lake,  at  first  spurned  by 
Crosby  and  now  acknowledged  its  twin  (see  Crosby),  is  a  mining  town  and 
one  of  the  leading  municipalities  of  the  Cuyuna  Range. 

In  1864,  the  United  States  Government  granted  the  Northern  Pacific 
Railroad  the  land  that  was  to  become  the  town  site  of  Ironton.  Thirty 
years  later,  the  railroad  sold  its  holdings  to  G.  E.  Premo,  who  subsequently 
transferred  his  equity  to  his  cousin,  David  Sutton.  The  sale  price  was  five 
dollars  an  acre.  Sutton  did  not  own  the  mineral  rights  and  traded  the  land 
for  some  stock  in  a  company  which  almost  immediately  went  into  bank- 
ruptcy. 

Ironton  (a  contraction  of  Iron  Town)  was  platted  by  Carrie  P.  and 
John  Hill  and  Agnes  I.  Lamb  on  September  6,  1910.  Crosby,  organized 
in  the  same  year,  attempted  to  include  Ironton  within  its  limits,  but  county 
commissioners,  deeming  the  site  of  little  value,  would  not  allow  the  annexa- 
tion. 

Ironton  named  its  main  street  Pennington  Avenue  in  honor  of  the 
president  of  the  Minneapolis,  St.  Paul  and  Sault  Ste.  Marie  (Soo  Line); 
then,  fearing  so  important  a  personage  might  not  feel  complimented,  quietly 
substituted  Ironton  Avenue.  The  summer  of  1910  was  marked  by  building 
activity — stores,  houses,  and  a  hotel  being  built. 

Ironton  again  was  spurned  in  1911,  when  the  Soo  Line  skirted  it  in 
running  tracks  out  to  the  Pennington  Mine  (inactive).  The  following 
summer,  however,  the  Northern  Pacific  extended  a  branch  from  Deerwood, 
and  Ironton  was  given  transportation  facilities,  though  the  station  was 
only  a  box  car.  Later,  the  Soo  Line  recognized  the  existence  of  the  village 
by  entering  an  agreement  with  the  Northern  Pacific  to  use  the  latter's 
station  and  tracks. 

Mining  is  Ironton's  main  industry.  The  Sagamore  Mine  (Riverton  Rd., 
3.5  miles  northwest),  an  open  pit,  was  discovered  beneath  a  deposit  of  peat, 
and,  as  it  was  stripped,  skeletons  of  buffalo  and  extinct  animals  were  found. 


KEEWATIN  137 

Its  drying  and  crushing  plant  removes  excess  moisture  from  the  ore  by 
means  of  revolving  ovens.  Other  active  mines  are  the  Alstead  (Evergreen 
Mine  Rd.,  0.5  mile  north)  and  the  Mahnomen  (Mahnomen  Lake  Rd., 
0.75  mile  northwest),  both  open  pits;  the  Armour  No.  i  (north  end  Irene 
Ave.),  underground;  and  the  Louise  (Mahnomen  Lake  Rd.,  1.5  miles 
northwest),  open  pit  and  underground.  The  Manganiferous  Iron  Com- 
pany operates  the  Louise  Mine  crushing  and  screening  plant  (Trommald 
Rd.,  four  miles  northwest),  built  in  1936  at  a  cost  of  $200,000. 

Ironton  is  only  one  mile  from  Crosby,  and  this  nearness,  together  with 
their  common  industry  and  school  district,  has  caused  them  to  be  referred 
to  generally  as  "Crosby-Ironton,  the  Cuyuna  Twins." 


*s0r*^0K<0^^*j&Vj0rxJ0rxj0'x^j^^J0v,0r^^ 


Keewatin 


Arrowhead  Tour  8. 

Railroad  station:     Great  Northern  (freight  only),  cor.  2nd  St.  and  Hibbing  Ave. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  lines,  ist  St.  bet.  and  and  3rd  Aves. 

Accommodations:     One  hotel. 

Information  service:     Theodore  Hotel,  cor.  ist  St.  and  3rd  Ave. 


NAMED  FOR  A  WIND 

Keewatin  (1,505  alt.,  1,942  pop.),  with  large  mines  operating  and  larger 
reserves  available,  is  a  mining  community  near  the  eastern  Itasca  County 
line. 

Iron-ore  explorations  had  been  carried  on  extensively  throughout  the 
western  Mesabi  Iron  Range  by  1904,  when  large  deposits  were  found  at 
the  site  of  the  present  Keewatin.    A  settlement  sprang  up  and  took  its  nam 
from  the  Ojibway  giwedin,  meaning  "north"  or  "north  wind." 

Keewatin  grew  slowly  in  its  first  years.  In  1905,  the  St.  Paul  Mine 
(St.  Paul  Rd.,  one  mile  northwest)  started  operations,  followed  three  years 
later  by  the  Bray  (inactive).  Development  became  more  rapid  when  the 
Great  Northern  Railroad  reached  here  in  1909,  and  two  mines,  Mississippi 
(inactive)  and  Bennett  (Bennett  Mine  Rd.,  three  miles  north),  were  opened 
in  1910  and  1912. 

Although  some  of  the  first  pits  have  been  exhausted,  others  have  re- 
placed them,  and  mining  remains  Keewatin's  only  industry.  In  1927,  work 
was  started  at  the  Mesabi  Chief  Mine.  By  the  end  of  1939,  it  had  shipped 
6,638,581  tons;  today,  it  is  the  largest  mine  in  Keewatin.  The  Mesabi 
Chief  and  the  Mississippi  No.  2  (St.  Paul  Rd.,  1.5  miles  northwest),  another 
open  pit,  are  operated  by  the  Hanna  Ore  Company  under  State  leases.  The 
St.  Paul  has  a  belt  system  that  carries  ore  from  the  open  pit  to  the  surface 


138  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

and  a  washing  plant  (Washing  Plant  Rd.,  one  mile  northwest),  where  the 
iron  ore  is  beneficiated.  Other  active  mines  are  the  Sargent  (Sargent  Mine 
Rd.,  one  mile  west),  an  underground,  and  the  Bennett,  which  is  operated 
by  both  underground  and  open-pit  methods. 

Keewatin  is  in  Itasca  County  School  District  No.  9,  of  which  Nashwauk 
is  the  administration  center.  The  village  has  two  schools:  the  Robert  L. 
Downing  High  (cor.  3rd  St.  and  3rd  Ave.)  and  the  Keewatin  Grade  (cor. 
3rd  St.  and  4th  Ave.),  both  of  red  brick. 

The  Village  Hall  (cor.  2nd  St.  and  3rd  Ave.),  a  two-story  building, 
also  of  red  brick,  was  erected  in  1909.  In  its  basement  is  a  municipally 
owned  and  operated  bowling  alley.  The  Public  Library  (cor.  3rd  St.  and 
3rd  Ave.)  has  several  thousand  volumes.  A  Boy  ScouuCabin  on  the  edge 
of  town,  for  the  exclusive  use  of  Boy  Scouts,  was  completed  in  1940. 

One  of  Keewa tin's  summer  show  spots  is  the  School  Garden,  on  US  169 
just  west  of  the  Village  Hall.  Many  prizes  have  been  won  at  the  Itasca 
County  Fair  on  vegetables  raised  in  this  garden. 


C^^V^^^y^V^V^^^X^V^^JC^^ 


Kinney 


Arrowhead  Tour  2. 

Accommodations:     One  hotel. 

Information  service:     Kinney  Hotel,  cor.  Main  St.  and  Pine  Ave. 

Tennis:     Wilson  School,  ist  St.  N.  bet.  Pine  and  Birch  Aves. 


TALE  TOLD  BY  A  MINE 

Kinney  (1,500  alt.,  462  pop.),  its  history  beginning  with  the  opening 
of  the  Kinney  Mine  (inactive),  is  surrounded  by  the  open  pits  on  which 
its  very  life  depends. 

After  the  Buhl  group  of  mines  was  opened  (see  Buhl),  explorations 
were  carried  on  more  extensively  in  the  region.  Just  north  of  Buhl,  O.  D. 
Kinney,  E.  B.  Hawkins,  and  George  H.  Crosby  (see  Crosby)  discovered 
the  ore  deposit  that  was  to  bear  Kinney 's  name.  The  property  was  leased 
to  the  Republic  Iron  and  Steel  Company.  A  shaft  was  sunk,  as  under- 
ground methods  of  mining  were  to  be  used,  and  the  first  ore  was  shipped 
in  1902.  Later,  the  mine  became  an  open  pit. 

A  community  grew  up  near  the  mine,  but  it  remained  unorganized  for 
some  time.  Other  mines  were  opened  in  the  adjacent  territory,  and  men, 
predominately  Finns  and  Slovenians,  who  came  to  work  in  them  settled  at 
the  site. 

In  1909,  when  a  census  was  taken  prior  to  petitioning  for  incorporation, 
the  population  numbered  367.  The  first  attempt  at  organization  failed,  but 


LITTLEFORK  139 

in  1910  the  town  was  incorporated  as  a  village.  Kinney,  unlike  Buhl,  never 
has  voted  itself  out  of  Great  Scott  Township,  which  owes  its  name  to  the 
favorite  ejaculation  of  one  of  the  county  commissioners,  uttered  at  the 
time  the  township  was  formed. 

From  time  to  time,  Kinney  has  annexed  valuable  sections  of  land, 
despite  objections  from  the  mining  companies  upon  whom  the  burden  of 
both  municipal  and  State  taxes  falls.  The  taxable  valuation  of  Kinney 
increased  from  $40,680  in  1911  to  $1,753,491  in  1919.  The  population  was 
1,200  in  1920,  but  during  the  next  ten  years  decreased  to  737. 

Kinney  is  in  School  District  No.  35,  organized  in  1901,  of  which  Buhl 
is  the  administration  center.  In  1921,  the  district  built  the  Wilson  School 
at  Kinney,  at  a  cost  of  $350,000.  The  earlier  frame  structure  has  since 
been  razed.  The  village  has  both  grade  and  junior  high  school  facilities, 
and  secondary  school  students  are  transported  to  the  Martin  Hughes  High 
School  at  Buhl.  It  also  has  a  Public  Library,  and  a  Municipal  Band  of 
35  members. 

Kinney  has  a  modern  water  system,  including  a  new  purification  plant, 
a  modern  sewage  plant,  electric  light  and  power,  and  paved  streets  through- 
out the  entire  village. 

Mining  is  still  the  main  industry,  although  in  recent  years  the  Kinney 
mines  within  the  village  have  been  inactive.  A  farming  region  has  devel- 
oped to  the  north,  many  unemployed  miners  having  turned  to  agriculture. 

Kinney  is  near  the  southern  border  of  the  Superior  National  Forest. 


<&*4?*^*'0^?^0^er*&^*^<<&^™<0^ 


Littlefork 


Arrowhead  Tour  3. 

Railroad  station:     Big  Fork   &  International   Falls,   junction   US    71    and   State   65,    I 

mile  W. 

Bus  station:     Northern  Transportation  Co.,  Dusmar  Hotel,  cor.  Main  and  3rd  Sts. 

Accommodations:     One    hotel;    Littlefork    State    Public    Campgrounds,    US    71,    1.25 

miles  W. 

Injormation  service:     Dusmar  Hotel. 

Tennis:     Littlefork  Post  490  Tennis  Court,  Main  St.  bet.  3rd  and  4th   (State  65)   Sts. 

Annual  event  (exact  dates  vary):     District  Fair,  August. 


IN  THE  CLOVER 

Littlefork  (1,153  a^-»  608  pop.),  on  the  great  horseshoe  bend  of  the 
river  of  the  same  name,  a  tributary  of  Rainy  River,  is  the  principal  com- 
munity in  one  of  the  best  agricultural  regions  in  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead 
country. 

Some  of  the  early  voyageurs  and  explorers,  no  doubt,  traveled  over  the 


140  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

inland  waterways  that  now  form  the  northern  boundary  of  Minnesota, 
paddled  along  the  Little  Fork,  and  visited  this  site.  The  first  white  men 
known  to  enter  the  region  were  lumbermen  who  worked  along  the  Little 
Fork  and  Big  Fork  rivers,  floating  logs  down  to  Rainy  River. 

Settlers  arrived  about  1905  and  found  the  region  covered  with  fine 
stands  of  cedar,  spruce,  balsam,  tamarack,  and  some  white  pine.  Logging 
was  the  chief  industry  for  many  years,  and  even  today  a  large  amount  of 
timber  is  hauled  to  the  mills  at  International  Falls  (see  International  Falls}. 

As  the  land  was  cleared,  agriculture  developed  in  the  fertile  valley  of 
the  Little  Fork  River.  The  chief  money  crops,  clover  seed  and  alfalfa, 
yield  from  six  to  ten  bushels  per  acre  on  cut-over  land,  and  cash  returns 
of  $100  to  $150  per  acre  are  not  unusual. 

For  many  years,  a  lack  of  good  roads  retarded  the  development  of  Little- 
fork,  but  today  it  is  the  second  largest  community  in  Koochiching  County, 
and  the  market  and  trade  center  for  the  district.  A  potato  wholesale  associa- 
tion, organized  for  cooperative  shipping,  maintains  a  warehouse.  Littlefork 
has  two  schools,  a  high  (north  end  Main  St.)  and  an  elementary  (Main  St. 
bet.  6th  and  yth  Sts.). 

There  is  good  hunting  for  bear  and  deer,  and  for  pintail  and  rufTed 
grouse.  The  zoo-foot  tower  of  the  State  Ranger  Station  (3rd  St.  bet. 
State  65  and  Main  St.)  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding  territory. 

A  1 9-mile  graveled  shortcut  connects  Littlefork  with  Ray  on  US  53. 


*<&V^<<&K0r*s0*<0~*^<'0**0r*'0K&^ 


McGregor 


Arrowhead  Tour  S. 

Railroad  station:    Northern  Pacifio,  and  Minneapolis,  St.  Paul  &  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  Union 

Station,  3  blocks  west  of  Maddy  St. 

Bus  station:    Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  Maddy  St. 

Accommodations:     Two  boarding  houses;  municipal  tourist  park,  High  School  grounds, 

i  block  S.  US  210. 

Information    service:     McGregor    Chamber    of    Commerce;    McGregor    Lakes    Region 

Association. 


NEAR  HISTORIC  SITES 

McGregor  (1,254  alt.,  311  pop.),  Aitkin  County,  gateway  to  the  Savanna 
State  Forest  and  to  an  extensive  resort  region,  is  an  important  junction 
point  of  two  railroads  and  two  highways,  US  210  and  State  65. 

When  white  men  first  advanced  to  the  head  of  the  lakes  in  the  second 
half  of  the  seventeenth  century,  the  area  southwest  of  the  St.  Louis  River, 
and  including  the  Big  Sandy  Lake  region,  was  Sioux  country.  It  was  not 
until  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century  that  the  Chippewa  gained  the 


MCGREGOR  14! 

upper  hand  in  northern  Minnesota.  One  of  the  most  important  portage 
routes  of  the  Northwest  (see  Floodwood),  connecting  the  Mississippi  and 
the  St.  Louis  River  systems,  thus  came  into  possession  of  the  Chippewa. 

The  relocation  of  this  historic  six-mile  portage  between  the  West 
Savanna  and  the  East  Savanna  rivers — about  18  miles  north-northeast  of 
McGregor — was  accomplished  in  1926  by  Professor  Irving  H.  Hart  and 
William  P.  Ingersoll,  and  permanent  markers  were  placed  along  its  course 
in  July,  1940,  by  50  Eagle  Boy  Scouts. 

By  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century,  the  Big  Sandy  Lake  region  had 
developed  into  one  of  the  main  fur-trading  centers.  The  Northwest  Com- 
pany established  a  post  on  Brown's  Point  at  Big  Sandy  Lake  in  1794. 
It  was  taken  over  by  the  American  Fur  Company  in  1816  and  abandoned 
six  years  later,  at  which  time  a  new  post  was  established  by  William  and 
Allan  Morrison  at  the  confluence  of  the  Sandy  and  Mississippi  rivers, 
just  west  of  the  present  Government  Dam.  William  A.  Aitkin,  for  whom 
Aitkin  County  was  named,  was  for  many  years  a  leading  trader  in  this  area. 

Through  this  region  in  1798  came  David  Thompson,  explorer  and 
geographer,  Lieutenant  Zebulon  M.  Pike  in  1805,  Territorial  Governor 
Lewis  Cass  and  Henry  R.  Schoolcraft  in  1820  (see  Chippewa  National 
Forest),,  Giacomo  Costantino  Beltrami  in  1823,  and  Joseph  N.  Nicollet  in 
1836. 

In  the  autumn  of  1832,  Frederick  Ayer  started  a  missionary  school  at 
Big  Sandy  Lake,  and  completed  while  there  an  Ojibway  spelling  book. 
When  William  T.  Boutwell  visited  the  fur-trading  post  in  that  year,  he 
found  "stables  for  30  head  of  cattle,  three  or  four  horses,  and  15  swine." 
Aitkin  told  him  he  had  raised  600  or  700  bushels  of  potatoes  the  year 
before,  and  also  cultivated  barley  and  peas. 

Lumbering  on  a  commercial  scale  began  about  1873,  reached  a  peak 
around  the  turn  of  the  century,  and  then  declined  until  the  big  trees  had 
practically  vanished  from  the  region  in  1916. 

The  central  location  of  the  present  village  between  several  good-sized 
lakes  suggested  itself  for  a  railroad  station,  for  which,  in  1880,  a  siding 
was  constructed  by  the  Northern  Pacific.  An  old  box  car  served  as  a  depot, 
and  it  was  named  McGregor. 

Henry  Lozway,  a  Frenchman  from  New  York  State,  came  to  McGregor 
about  1890,  and  for  a  short  time  operated  a  small  store,  serving  the  lumber 
workers  in  the  region.  Following  him  came  Pasquale  Memmola,  Frank 
Spicola,  and  C.  A.  Maddy,  who  are  considered  the  actual  founders  of  the 
village.  McGregor  was  incorporated  in  1903. 

Extensive  drainage  operations  have  transformed  the  area  into  a  farming 
district,  with  McGregor  as  its  marketing  center. 

Well-equipped  resorts  abound  in  the  surrounding  lake  region.  Among 
the  larger  lakes  are  Big  Sandy,  Minnewawa,  Rice,  and  Gun.  The  region 
is  known  for  its  good  fishing  and  hunting,  and  it  is  upon  these  that 
McGregor  bases  its  claim  to  the  title,  "Hub  of  a  Sportsman's  Paradise." 


142  THE     MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD     COUNTRY 

^^f^^-^^Or^^r»^r^Or»^^^^Gr^^^^ 


Marble 


Arrowhead  "Tour  2. 

Railroad  station:     Duluth,  Missabe  &  Iron  Range,  and  Great  Northern   (freight  only), 

US  169,  4  blocks  S.E. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  cor.  3rd  Ave.  W.  and  3rd  St. 

Information  service:     Village  Hall,  cor.  4th  Ave.  W.  and  3rd  St. 

Golf:     Swan  Lake  Golf  Club  (open  to  public),  State  65,  6  miles  E.;  9  holes. 

Swimming:     Twin  Lakes  Beach  (municipal),  Twin  Lakes  Rd.,  i  mile  S.W. 

Tennis:     Village  Courts,  Alice  Ave.  bet.  Sadie  and  Ethel  Sts. 


FROM  THE  MIDST  OF  THE  FOREST 

Marble  (1,382  alt.,  792  pop.)  is  one  of  the  mining  villages  in  the 
Canisteo  District  on  the  western  Mesabi  Range. 

Marble  came  into  existence  with  the  discovery  of  iron-ore  deposits 
beneath  dense  forests  covering  the  area.  The  town  site  embraced  80  acres, 
with  20  acres  adjoining  reserved  for  a  public  park,  when  the  Oliver  Iron 
Mining  Company  began  the  building  of  the  village  following  the  comple- 
tion of  Coleraine. 

The  station  of  the  Duluth,  Missabe  and  Northern  Railroad,  now  the 
Duluth,  Missabe  and  Iron  Range,  though  only  a  frame  building,  was  for 
some  time  the  most  imposing  structure. 

In  1909,  Marble  was  incorporated  as  a  village,  and  in  1911  had  a  popu- 
lation of  900. 

Mining  is  the  only  industry.  The  Oliver  Iron  Mining  Company  has 
given  up  its  lease  on  the  Hill  Mine  and  today  operates  no  mines  within 
the  village.  Since  the  abandonment  of  the  Hill,  the  largest  local  mine  is 
the  Hill- Annex,  to  which  Calumet  also  owes  its  being  and  support.  Opened 
in  1914,  it  has  shipped  22,879,647  tons  of  iron  ore.  The  Hill-Trumbull 
Mine  (White  City  Rd.,  0.5  mile  north),  an  open  pit  started  in  1919,  in- 
cludes the  former  Hill  Mine.  Operated  by  the  Mesaba-ClifTs  Mining  Com- 
pany, it  has  produced  12,900,700  tons  of  ore.  It  has  a  washing  plant  (Sand 
Lake  Rd.,  1.5  miles  southeast).  The  Oliver  Iron  Mining  Company  controls 
vast  reserves  in  Marble. 

The  Olcott  School,  a  $45,000  structure  (Alice  Ave.  bet.  Bawden  and 
Kate  Sts.),  was  built  in  1911.  The  streets,  once  only  mud  trails,  are 
now  paved  or  surfaced,  and  the  main  one  is  as  wide  as  a  boulevard.  The 
village  has  modern  public  utilities. 

Marble  is  within  easy  driving  distance  of  Scenic  State  Park. 


MOOSE    LAKE  143 


Moose  Lake 


Arrowhead  Tour  S. 

Railroad  stations:     Northern  Pacific,  cor.  East  Ave.  (US  61)  and  5th  St.;  Minneapolis, 

St.  Paul  &  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  West  Rd.  (State  27),  0.5  mile  W. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  cor.  East  Ave.  and  4th  St. 

Taxis:     One  cab  line  offers  service  within  village  limits  and  to  surrounding  territory. 

Accommodations:     Three  hotels;  municipal  tourist  camp,  east  end  3rd  St.,  on  lake  shore. 

Information  service:     Hotel  Moose  Lake. 

Golf:     Moose   Lake  Municipal   Golf  Club,  Sand  Lake   Rd.,   3.5   miles   S.E.,  on  lake 

shore;  9  holes. 

Swimming:     Municipal  beach,  municipal  tourist  camp. 


SOUTHERN  GATEWAY 

Moose  Lake  (1,085  a^->  M32  P°P-)>  skirting  the  shores  o£  the  lake  o£ 
the  same  name,  is  the  center  of  a  large  agricultural  district. 

It  came  into  existence  in  the  early  1 86o's,  shortly  after  the  Military  Road 
had  been  cut  from  St.  Paul  to  Superior  and  a  stagecoach  line  established 
(see  Carlton).  This  was  a  stop-over  point,  located  on  the  shore  of  Little 
Moose  Lake,  about  three  miles  east  of  the  present  site,  where  a  hotel,  some 
barns,  a  few  homes,  and  an  Indian  village  made  up  a  settlement. 

In  1870,  the  Lake  Superior  and  Mississippi  Railroad,  now  the  Northern 
Pacific,  the  first  in  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead,  was  constructed  about  three 
miles  west  of  the  stage  line.  The  settlers  lost  no  time  in  moving  to  the 
railroad,  and  here  the  town  developed. 

The  entire  region  was  covered  with  beautiful  stands  of  virgin  white 
pine.  Logging  activities  started  in  the  early  1870*5,  and  for  many  years 
this  was  the  only  means  of  livelihood.  The  first  timber,  cut  on  the  east 
side  of  the  lake,  was  hauled  to  the  lake  shore,  then  floated  across  to  a  saw- 
mill that  started  operations  in  1874.  Other  mills  appeared,  but  today  the 
sawmills  are  gone  from  Moose  Lake,  although  some  pulpwood  is  shipped. 

As  land  was  cleared,  settlers  turned  to  the  soil,  and  during  the  early 
i88o's  there  was  a  heavy  influx  of  immigrants,  principally  Scandinavians 
and  Finns.  The  town  was  platted  in  1888  and  incorporated  in  1899. 
Farming  replaced  lumbering,  and  in  1910  a  second  railroad,  the  Minne- 
apolis, St.  Paul  and  Sault  Ste.  Marie  (Soo  Line),  was  constructed. 

The  thriving  village  received  a  jolting  setback  in  1918,  when,  together 
with  Cloquet  (see  Cloquet)  and  several  other  towns  in  northern  Minnesota, 
it  was  destroyed  by  a  forest  fire  that  swept  over  approximately  1,500  square 
miles.  In  Riverside  Cemetery  (US  61,  0.5  mile  north)  is  a  27-foot  granite 
shaft  erected  by  the  State  in  memory  of  the  victims.  The  town  was  rebuilt 
with  modern  buildings  and  beautiful  homes  overlooking  the  lake. 

Dairying  is  the  main  industry,  one  creamery  annually  producing  1,000,- 
ooo  pounds  of  butter  and  handling  5,000  cases  of  eggs.  There  is  a  co- 


144  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

operative  produce  association,  which  wholesales  and  retails  farm  products, 
and  also  a  farm  marketing  association.  Power  is  supplied  by  a  municipal 
plant  that  was  built  in  1933. 

The  Nemadji  Tile  and  Pottery  Company  (Soo  Line  right-of-way,  0.6 
mile  west),  organized  in  1923,  manufactures  Indian  pottery  and  unglazed 
tile  for  walls,  fireplaces,  and  general  construction,  in  various  colors  produced 
by  mixtures  of  local  clays.  The  products  are  marketed  throughout  the 
United  States. 

On  a  slope  overlooking  the  southeast  shore  of  the  lake  is  a  State  hos- 
pital for  the  insane  (Island  Lake  Rd.,  two  miles  southeast).  The  con- 
struction of  the  $2,500,000  institution  on  a  i,7oo-acre  site  was  begun  in 
1936.  All  structures  are  fireproof  and  are  connected  by  tunnels,  so  that 
it  is  not  necessary  to  take  patients  out-of-doors  in  inclement  weather. 
Special  windows,  opening  only  five  inches,  have  been  installed. 

The  modern  Moose  Lake  Grade  and  High  School  (cor.  G  Ave.  and  5th 
St.)  was  erected  in  1936,  after  a  fire  had  destroyed  the  former  building. 

Among  the  many  recreational  facilities  are  several  fine  lakes  that  offer 
good  fishing  and  water  sports,  and,  although  there  are  few  resorts  in  the 
vicinity,  a  large  summer  population  is  attracted  to  the  cabins  built  along 
the  shores. 


<*0r*^*s0K*&K0rxJ0r*<0rK0rxJ0v,0^^ 


Mountain  Iron 


Arrowhead  Tour  2. 

Railroad   station:     Duluth,   Missabe   &   Iron    Range,   2nd   St.    (US    169)    bet.    ist   and 

Missabe  Aves. 

Bus   station:     Northland    Greyhound   Lines,   Post   Office,    2nd   St.    bet.   Mountain   and 

Biwabik  Aves. 

Accommodations:     Village  tourist  camp,  US  169,  5  blocks  W. 

Information  service:     Village  Hall,  cor.  Mountain  Ave.  and  2nd  St. 

Tennis:     Village  and  School  District  No.  21  Court,  cor.  Biwabik  Ave.  and  2nd  St. 


OPENING  A  NEW  ERA 

Mountain  Iron  (1,510  alt.,  1,492  pop.)  may  be  called  the  "birthplace  of 
the  Mesabi";  for  it  was  here  that  the  first  iron  ore  of  the  Mesabi  Range  was 
discovered,  and  here  that  the  first  railroad  to  ship  that  ore  was  run. 

The  history  of  the  town  is  linked  indissolubly  with  the  Merritt  family 
of  Duluth.  Timber  cruisers  and  prospectors,  they  estimated  the  wealth 
above  their  heads  and  searched  for  that  below  their  feet.  They  made  a 
dip  needle  survey  of  the  entire  range  and  sank  test  pits.  No  rich  ore 
turned  up,  but  they  did  not  lose  faith.  Had  not  Leonidas  Merritt  found 
surface  ore  while  exploring  areas  being  logged?  Had  not  his  brother 


(Left)  OLD  MAN  MENDING  His 
NET.  This  trick,  expertly  prac- 
ticed a  long  time  ago  on  the 
shores  of  ancient  Galilee,  is 
known  to  but  few  in  1941. 


Photograph  by  courtesy  of  the  Minnesota  Tourist  Bureau. 


(Right)  OLD  TIME  TRAPPER. 
Much  of  the  Arrowhead  is 
still  wilderness,  and  the  fur 
industry  a  valuable  business  in 
Minnesota.  This  trapper  is 
John  Schwager,  and  the  shack ' 
is  his  home  near  Big  Fork. 


m*      * 


Photograph    by   Gallagher,   D ninth. 

(Above)  LANDING  THE  CATCH.  Commercial  fishing  along  the  North 
Shore  is  an  important  industry,  conducted  chiefly  by  Scandinavians,  to 
whom  the  climate  and  scenery  are  remindful  of  home. 


(Below)     MAKING  NETS.    An  art  in  which  the  Scandinavian  fishermen 
of  the  North  Shore  are  past  masters. 


MOUNTAIN    IRON  145 

Cassius  brought  back  a  rich  chunk  from  a  railroad  right-of-way  he  was 
surveying?  The  work  went  on,  with  crews  test-pitting  in  different  parts 
of  the  range. 

In  1890,  the  crew  working  under  Captain  J.  A.  Nichols  discovered 
blue  ore  at  the  site  of  the  present  Mountain  Iron  Mine  (inactive).  He 
carried  a  bushel  of  it  to  Duluth,  where  it  was  assayed  and  found  to  have 
a  high  iron  content.  The  Merritts  had  no  way  of  shipping  the  ore,  but  at 
last  they  came  to  an  agreement  with  the  Duluth  and  Winnipeg  Railroad 
(see  Proctor),  and  the  first  shipment  from  the  Mesabi  was  made  in  1892. 
The  mining  camp  grew.  In  April,  an  8o-acre  town  site  was  platted,  named 
Grant  in  honor  of  the  Duluth,  Missabe  and  Northern  Railroad  contractor, 
and  in  November  it  was  incorporated  as  the  village  of  Mountain  Iron. 

The  panic  of  1893  dealt  harshly  with  the  new  community.  A  sawmill 
built  that  year  operated  just  long  enough  to  supply  the  immediate  lumber 
needs  of  the  town.  With  the  working  of  the  near-by  iron-ore  deposits  and 
the  influx  of  new  settlers,  the  village  gradually  became  stabilized. 

By  1900,  the  Mountain  Iron  Mine  alone  had  produced  3,792,629  tons. 
Mining  is  still  the  town's  main  industry,  though  only  one  of  the  four  mines 
in  the  vicinity,  the  Wacootah,  is  operating. 

A  granite  quarry  (Co.  Rd.  63,  two  miles  north),  owned  by  the  Mesabe 
Granite  Company,  commenced  operations  in  1935  and  yields  Mountain 
Iron  pink  granite  (see  Ely;  Coofy.  A  fire  lookout  tower,  on  the  edge  of 
the  quarry,  provides  a  good  view  of  the  surrounding  country. 

Mountain  Iron's  public  buildings  are  of  yellow  brick.  The  High  School 
(cor.  Biwabik  Ave.  and  2nd  St.)  was  built  in  1911  at  a  cost  of  $95,000. 
Adjacent  to  it  and  connected  by  a  tunnel  is  the  Grade  and  Athletic  Building 
(Biwabik  Ave.  bet.  2nd  and  3rd  Sts.),  constructed  in  1919  at  a  cost  of 
$305,000. 

The  Village  Hall  (cor.  Mountain  Ave.  and  2nd  St.)  and  the  Public 
Library  (Mountain  Ave.  bet.  ist  and  2nd  Sts.)  were  erected  in  1915.  The 
library  contains  13,000  volumes,  many  of  which  are  in  foreign  languages, 
and  receives  82  periodicals  and  12  newspapers. 

A  bronze  plaque  mounted  on  a  nine  and  one-half  ton  granite  boulder 
on  the  High  School  lawn  commemorates  the  fortieth  anniversary  of  the 
first  shipment  of  ore  from  the  Mesabi.  The  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the 
discovery  of  iron  ore  on  the  Mesabi  Range  was  celebrated  in  Mountain  Iron 
on  August  9,  10,  and  n,  1940,  as  the  "Mountain  Iron  Golden  Jubilee." 
A  ten  and  one-half  foot  granite  and  cement  statue  of  Leonidas  Merritt, 
leader  of  the  famous  "Seven  Iron  Men,"  was  unveiled  by  one  of  his  sons, 
Harry  Merritt,  on  the  grounds  of  the  Public  Library.  Lucien  Merritt, 
another  son  of  Leonidas,  Glen  Merritt,  Alva  Merritt,  and  Mrs.  Robbins, 
daughter  of  Cassius  Merritt,  also  participated. 

Mountain  Iron  has  several  good  trout  streams  in  its  vicinity,  and  the 
West  Two  River  flows  through  the  village. 


146  THE     MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD     COUNTRY 


Nashwauk 


Arrowhead  Tour  2. 

Railroad  station:    Great  Northern  (freight  only),  south  foot  ist  St. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  Main  St.  bet.  2nd  and  3rd  Sts. 

Accommodations:     One  hotel. 

Information  service:     Ollila  Hotel,  cor.  3rd  St.  and  Central  Ave. 


MINES  AND  ORE  WASHING  PLANTS 

Nashwauk  (1,500  alt.,  2,228  pop.)  is  the  largest  mining  community  and 
second  largest  town  in  Itasca  County. 

Pine  forests  first  attracted  men  to  the  western  Mesabi  Range.  The 
region  had  no  streams  or  rivers  down  which  to  float  logs,  so  in  1890  the 
Wright-Davis  Lumber  Company  laid  tracks  from  the  present  site  of  Jacob- 
son,  where  the  Swan  River  flows  into  the  Mississippi,  to  the  heart  of  their 
timber  land,  near  what  is  now  Ribbing.  James  J.  Hill  of  the  Great 
Northern  bought  out  their  interests  in  1899  and  incorporated  the  road  into 
his  system. 

In  1900,  the  Itasca  Mining  Company  explored  property  that  later  was 
developed  into  the  Hawkins  Mine  (west  end  Central  Ave.).  When  iron 
ore  was  discovered,  the  deposit  was  leased  to  the  Deering  Harvester  Com- 
pany, and  the  mine  was  opened  in  1902. 

The  Nashwauk  Townsite  Company  platted  the  village  on  what  was 
once  the  site  of  a  lumber  camp.  Its  name,  from  Nashwaak,  a  river  and 
village  near  Fredericton,  New  Brunswick,  is  of  Algonquian  origin,  prob- 
ably meaning  "land  between,"  as  does  Nashau,  the  name  of  a  city  and 
river  in  New  Hampshire. 

In  1908-09,  the  Great  Northern  was  extended  from  Nashwauk  to  con- 
nect with  its  main  line  at  Grand  Rapids,  and  tiny  Nashwauk's  growth 
really  began.  Mining  operations  expanded.  In  1901,  stripping  had  begun 
on  an  extensive  scale  at  the  Hawkins  Mine;  by  the  end  of  1936,  12,164,000 
tons  of  ore  had  been  shipped  from  this  open  pit,  the  village's  chief  source 
of  income.  In  connection  with  the  mine  is  a  washing  and  jigging  plant 
(Washing  Plant  Rd.,  two  miles  south),  in  which  the  ore  is  separated  on 
sieves  or  screens  after  impurities  have  been  carried  of?  by  a  water  process. 
The  La  Rue  Mine  (La  Rue  Mine  Rd.,  1.5  miles  east),  opened  at  approxi- 
mately the  same  time  as  the  Hawkins,  is  operated  by  both  open-pit  and 
underground  methods,  as  was  the  Headley  (abandoned),  formerly  known 
as  the  Crosby,  opened  in  1903.  The  La  Rue  has  a  washing  plant.  Five 
other  open-pit  mines  in  the  vicinity  are  active;  two  operate  washing  plants. 

Nashwauk,  with  all  this  wealth  at  her  door,  has  made  steady  progress. 
Among  its  public  buildings  are  the  Village  Hall  (cor.  Central  Ave.  and 
3rd  St.),  built  of  gray  brick  in  1916;  the  Nashwauk  High  School  (2nd  St. 


NORTHOME  147 

bet.  Platt  and  Roberts  Aves.),  constructed  in  1922  of  red  brick,  and  the 
Soldiers  Memorial  Building  (Central  and  3rd  St.),  of  red  brick,  built  in 
1928. 


\*&Vs0*^0*s0r*^rx,0vJ0rx^Vs0r*^^ 


Northome 


Arrowhead  Tours  2,  3. 

Railroad  station:     Minnesota  &  International,  west  end  Main  St.  (Park  Ave.). 

Bus  station:     Northern  Transportation  Co.,  Scenic  Hotel,  cor.  State  I   (Park  Avc.)  and 

State  46   (and  St.). 

Accommodations:     One  hotel. 

Information  service:     Scenic  Hotel. 

Annual  event  (exact  dates  vary):     Koochiching  County  Fair,  August. 


FROM  FOREST  TO  FARM 

Northome  (1,451  alt.,  343  pop.),  its  name  contracted  from  North  Home 
at  the  request  of  the  United  States  Postal  Service,  is  one  of  the  Koochiching 
County  communities  that  are  turning  from  lumbering  to  farming. 

With  white  pine,  cedar,  elm,  balsam,  maple,  birch,  and  basswood  cover- 
ing the  area,  the  village,  settled  about  1897,  grew  as  a  typical  lumbering 
center.  Sawmills  were  built,  and  the  Big  Fork  and  Northern  Railroad  was 
constructed  between  Northome  and  Big  Falls  (see  Big  Falls).  In  1912, 
Chris  P.  Ellingson  bought  200  acres  of  timber  land  on  the  north  shore  of 
Island  Lake,  put  up  a  sawmill  that  had  a  ten-hour  capacity  of  40,000  feet, 
and  organized  the  Island  Lake  Lumber  Company,  which  gave  the  com- 
munity new  life.  Sawmills  are  still  operating  in  Northome,  and  pulpwood 
is  shipped  to  the  mills  at  International  Falls. 

The  rich,  black  loam  prevalent  in  this  vicinity  attracted  settlers,  who 
have  developed  cut-over  lands  for  farming.  Many  of  the  lumber  workers 
have  also  turned  to  agriculture.  The  soil  is  adapted  to  the  growing  of 
alfalfa  and  clover,  and  a  principal  source  of  income  in  the  Northome  region 
is  the  sale  of  clover  and  alfalfa  seed.  Northome  has  a  cooperative  creamery 
that  handles  most  of  the  dairy  products  of  the  district. 

The  Northome  Consolidated  School  (cor.  State  46  and  Lake  St.)  is  a 
grade  and  high  school  for  Koochiching  County  pupils  in  the  unorganized 
school  district.  In  1922,  a  fireproof,  shale-brick  addition  to  the  original 
four-room  frame  structure  was  built  at  a  cost  of  $50,000. 

Northome  is  popular  as  a  vacation  town.  Several  lakes  offering  good 
fishing  are  within  easy  driving  distance,  and  there  are  many  scenic  attrac- 
tions for  tourists,  among  them  Island  Lake,  three  miles  south  of  Northome, 
which  has  12  resorts  and  lodges.  Game  is  plentiful,  and  the  hunting  season 
brings  an  influx  of  sportsmen. 


148  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

\*0r*<0r*<0^0^&V^^0r*<0^0r*<0^^^ 


Qrr 


Arrowhead  Tours  8,  4- 

Railroad  station:     Duluth,   Winnipeg  &  Pacific   (Canadian  National),  junction  US   53 

and  Orr-Buyck  Rd.  (Co.  Rd.  23). 

Bus  Station:     Northern  Transportation  Co.,  US  53,  o.i  mile  N. 

Taxis:     One  cab  line  offers  service  within  village  limits  and  to  surrounding  territory. 

Accommodations:     One  hotel;  municipal  camp  grounds,  US  53,  0.25  mile  N. 

Information  service:     Orr- Arrowhead  Club,  Post  Office,  junction  US  53  and  Orr-Buyck 

Rd. 

Swimming:     Pelican  Beach  (municipal),  US  53,  0.25  mile  N. 

Tennis:     St.  Louis  County  School  142,  Orr-Buyck  Rd.,  0.3  mile  S.E. 

Rifle  range:     Orr-Pelican  Lake  Rifle  Club,  Pelican  Rd.,  2  miles  W. 

Annual  event  (exact  dates  vary):     Water  Carnival,  July. 


LAST  OUTFITTING  POINT 

Orr  (1,305  alt.,  234  pop.),  on  the  east  shore  of  Pelican  Lake,  is  a  village 
on  the  road  to  the  wilderness.  The  region  was  the  hunting  grounds  of 
Indians,  who  roamed  the  forests  and  paddled  the  waters.  They  have  had 
a  settlement  on  Nett  Lake  since  about  1600.  Nett  Lake  is  one  of  the 
reservations  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Consolidated  Chippewa  Indian 
Agency  (see  Cass  La^e). 

Into  this  area  replete  with  wild  life  came  fur  traders.  In  1889,  Henry 
Connors,  from  Superior,  Wisconsin,  built  a  trading  post  on  the  Pelican 
River,  about  one  mile  south  of  the  site  of  the  present  Orr.  After  passing 
through  different  hands,  the  post  was  bought  in  1895  or  1896  by  William 
Orr,  who  held  undisputed  sway  over  both  Indians  and  whites  for  many 
years,  and  after  whom  the  village  was  named. 

Lumbering  helped  to  open  up  the  country.  Fine  stands  of  pine  covered 
the  area,  and  records  show  that  a  man  named  Saunders  was  logging  on  the 
south  shore  of  Pelican  Lake  as  early  as  1891.  The  logs  were  hauled  to 
the  Willow  River,  floated  on  the  Little  Fork  to  Rainy  River,  and  thence 
across  Lake  of  the  Woods  to  Rat  Portage  (Kenora),  a  drive  of  nearly  400 
miles.  Stephen  Gheen  built  a  sawmill  at  Elbow  Falls  on  Elbow  River,  a 
short  distance  from  the  village  site,  in  1900,  and  sawed  lumber  for  the  first 
buildings  in  Orr.  Several  logging  companies  were  operating  in  the  terri- 
tory; later  they  joined  to  form  the  Virginia  and  Rainy  Lake  Lumber 
Company. 

By  1905,  the  right-of-way  for  a  logging  railroad  had  been  cut  beyond 
Orr,  which  now  had  a  hotel,  store,  and  other  buildings.  In  1906-07,  train 
service  to  the  Canadian  border  was  begun. 

As  lumbering  waned,  Orr  became  a  virtual  "ghost"  town.  Although 
agriculture  has  been  developed  to  some  extent  in  the  area,  today  the  town 
relies  largely  on  the  tourist  trade.  It  is  the  last  outfitting  point  for  sports- 


PROCTOR  149 

men  bound  for  the  border  lakes  and  is  the  railroad  station  for  freight  going 
to  that  region. 

Orr  was  incorporated  as  a  village  in  1935.  Its  new  brick  school,  St.  Louis 
County  School  142,  was  constructed  in  1936;  the  first  school  was  built  in 
1907.  The  Senior  High  Department  is  the  farthest  north  of  all  rural  high 
schools  in  St.  Louis  County. 

Orr  is  headquarters  for  forest  rangers  (junction  Orr-Buyck  Rd.  and 
US  53)  supervising  the  918,560-30-6  Kabetogama  State  Forest,  now  largely 
incorporated  in  the  Superior  National  Forest. 


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Proctor 


Arrowhead  Tour  2. 

Railroad  station:     Duluth,  Missabe  &  Iron  Range,  W.  2nd  St.  bet.  and  Ave.  E.  and 

Short  St. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  223  West  Side  Ave. 

Information  service:     Village  Hall,  100  E.  2nd  St. 

Golf:      Duluth,    Missabe    &    Iron    Range    Employees'    Association    Golf    Course    (open 

to  public),  cor.  Forest  St.  and  2nd  Ave.  E.;  4  holes. 

Tennis:     Proctor  High  School,  cor.  Central  Ave.  and  E.  3rd  St. 

Annual  event  (exact  dates  vary) :     Southern  St.  Louis  County  Fair,  August  or  September. 

THE  HUB 

Proctor  (1,236  alt.,  2,468  pop.),  a  village  whose  history  parallels  that 
of  the  Duluth,  Missabe  and  Iron  Range  Railroad,  is  the  greatest  iron  ore 
transportation  center  in  the  world. 

In  1892,  the  Merritts  built  the  Duluth,  Missabe  and  Northern  Railroad 
from  Mountain  Iron  to  Stony  Brook,  a  distance  of  45  miles,  to  transport 
ore  from  the  Mountain  Iron  Mine  to  the  Duluth  and  Winnipeg  Railroad, 
which  had  agreed  to  carry  the  output  from  Stony  Brook  to  the  lake.  A  year 
later,  because  the  Duluth  and  Winnipeg  failed  to  supply  sufficient  cars, 
and,  moreover,  was  shipping  the  ore  to  docks  in  Superior,  the  Duluth, 
Missibe  and  Northern  was  extended  into  Duluth. 

The  site  of  the  present  Proctor,  then  regarded  as  part  of  Oneota  (see 
Duluth),  was  selected  for  the  shops  and  classification  yards.  In  1894,  the 
village  was  incorporated. 

Now  officially  rechristened  as  Proctor,  it  was  originally  named  Proctor- 
knott  for  the  Honorable  J.  Proctor  Knott,  former  Governor  of  Kentucky 
and  United  States  Congressman,  who  in  1871  delivered  a  satirical  Con- 
gressional speech  ridiculing  Duluth.  It  was  on  January  27,  1871,  that  one 
group  in  Congress  tried  to  secure  the  extension  of  a  land  grant  for  "the 
construction  of  a  railroad  from  the  St.  Croix  River  or  lake  to  the  west  end 
of  Lake  Superior  and  to  Bayfield,"  while  the  other  group  was  anxious  to 


150  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

secure  the  passage  of  a  bill  designed  "to  appropriate  $500,000  to  improve 
the  harbor  at  Duluth."  The  latter  group  was  influenced  by  the  Lake 
Superior  and  Mississippi  Railroad,  which  had  just  been  completed  in  July, 
1870.  Mr.  Knott  evidently  supposed  that  the  proposed  appropriation  for 
the  Duluth  harbor  was  a  part  of  the  scheme  of  those  interested  in  getting 
a  land  grant  for  the  railroad.  As  a  matter  of  fact  it  had  no  relation  to 
the  railroad  land  grant.  The  Duluth  people  as  well  as  the  Lake  Superior 
and  Mississippi  Railroad  were  very  much  opposed  to  the  land  grant,  mainly 
on  account  of  the  intense  rivalry  between  Duluth  and  Superior  in  those 
days.  The  St.  Croix  and  Bayfield  Railroad  was  to  have  its  terminus  at 
Superior,  and  there  is  little  doubt  that  the  building  of  that  railroad  would 
have  promoted  the  growth  of  Duluth's  rival. 

Mr.  Knott,  who  had  no  connection  with  either  of  the  opposing  groups, 
tried  in  his  speech,  as  a  matter  of  principle,  to  fight  the  extension  of  the 
land  grant.  His  words  were  so  packed  with  sarcastic  humor  that  the 
House  repeatedly  rocked  in  laughter.  The  land  grant  bill  was  killed,  but 
his  humorous  speech  caught  the  public  fancy.  Attention  was  focused  on 
Duluth,  which  he  had  termed  "the  center  of  the  universe,"  and  within 
20  years  many  of  the  predictions  that  Proctor  Knott  had  made  in  mocking 
jest  became  a  reality. 

Railroading  is  Proctor's  only  industry.  The  shops  and  ore  classification 
yards  of  the  Duluth,  Missabe  and  Iron  Range  Railroad  cover  approximately 
240  acres  and  ordinarily  employ  about  1,000  men.  These  classification 
yards,  the  largest  in  the  world,  with  57  miles  of  track  and  a  capacity  of 
6,479  hopper-bottomed  cars,  make  up  trainloads  of  ore  according  to  quality 
specifications,  to  be  hauled  by  mallet  engines  down  the  heavy  six-mile 
grade  to  the  Duluth  ore  docks  (see  Duluth  Tour  3).  The  roundhouse  has 
30  stalls,  with  equipment  for  repairs,  and  is  a  modern  engine  terminal. 
When  cold  weather  sets  in,  the  ore-steaming  plant  thaws  ore  that  has  been 
frozen,  thus  facilitating  loading  and  lengthening  the  shipping  season. 

Proctor's  public  school  system  consists  of  three  schools:  Proctor  High; 
Proctor  East  Side  Grade  (cor.  Central  Ave.  and  E.  2nd  St.);  and  Summit 
Grade  and  Junior  High  (cor.  8th  Ave.  and  W.  2nd  St.).  There  is  one 
parochial  school,  St.  Rose  of  Lima  (116  E.  3rd  St.),  conducted  by  the 
Sisters  of  St.  Benedict. 

The  $102,000  two-story  brick  Village  Hall  was  completed  in  1940,  re- 
placing the  frame  structure  that  had  been  in  use  for  30  years. 


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Tower 


Arrowhead  Tour  4- 

Canoe  Trips:     14,  15. 

Railroad  station:     Duluth,  Missabe  &  Iron  Range,  cor.  Pine  and  2nd  Sts. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  Main  St.  bet.  Birch  and  Spruce  Sts. 


tOWER  I51 

Information  service:     Tower  Commercial  Club,  609  Main  St. 

Swimming:     McKinley  Park  Beach   (open  to  public),  McKinley  Park,  McKinley  Park 

Rd.,  3  miles  N.  (via  Soudan). 

Tennis:     Tower  Public  School,  cor.  Spruce  and  N.  3rd  Sts. 

Annual  event  (exact  dates  vary) :     Winter  Frolic,  January. 

FIRST  CITY  OF  THE  RANGES 

Tower  (1,367  alt.,  820  pop.),  guarded  by  Jasper  Peak  and  Lake  Ver- 
milion, and  in  the  shadow  of  the  historic  Soudan  Mine  (State  i,  1.5  miles 
east),  to  which  it  owes  its  existence,  is  the  Arrowhead's  oldest  incorporated 
municipality  north  of  Duluth. 

Over  inland  waterways,  in  the  early  days  of  the  Northwest,  paddled 
adventurous  fur  traders,  one  of  their  well-traveled  routes  being  through 
Lake  Vermilion. 

During  1865-66,  rumors  of  gold  were  rampant,  and  so  many  prospectors 
rushed  into  the  district,  accessible  only  by  complicated  and  difficult  water 
and  land  routes,  that  the  Vermilion  Trail  (see  Duluth  Tour  1)  was  cut 
from  Duluth  to  the  site  of  Tower. 

Among  the  gold  prospectors  was  George  R.  Stuntz  of  Duluth.  When 
he  found  outcroppings  of  iron  ore  at  the  site  of  the  present  Soudan  Mine, 
he  was  not  surprised,  because  he  knew  of  the  existence  of  iron  ore  in 
the  region  and  had  seen  samples  of  it.  Stuntz  surveyed  a  town  site  at  the 
wilderness  end  of  the  Vermilion  Trail  in  1882,  after  a  sawmill  and  a 
planing  mill  had  been  set  up  to  saw  the  pine  logs  floated  down  the  East 
Two  River.  Stuntz's  town  site  was  selected  for  a  business  section  to  serve 
the  location  (Soudan)  where  the  Minnesota  Iron  Mining  Company  already 
had  put  up  homes.  In  1883,  it  was  organized  as  a  village  and  named  in 
honor  of  the  Philadelphia  financier,  Charlemagne  Tower. 

The  early  settlers  suffered  many  hardships.  Transportation  facilities 
were  poor — it  took  two  nights  and  three  days  to  travel  by  wagon  over  the 
Vermilion  Trail  from  Duluth.  The  weekly  mail  service  was,  of  course, 
uncertain.  (The  mining  company's  payroll  was  sent  nailed  in  a  wooden 
box.)  During  a  severe  cold  spell,  the  clerk  at  the  store  is  said  to  have 
requisitioned  a  six-foot  thermometer  guaranteed  not  to  freeze  at  40  below 
zero. 

In  1884,  the  Duluth  and  Iron  Range  Railroad,  running  between  Two 
Harbors  and  Soudan,  was  extended  to  Tower.  Lumbering  then  became  a 
thriving  industry.  The  population  of  the  village  was  increasing,  and 
Tower  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1889. 

Tower  is  on  the  south  shore  of  Lake  Vermilion,  one  of  the  largest  and 
most  popular  summer  resort  lakes  in  the  region,  and  one  to  which  fisher- 
men from  all  parts  of  the  United  States  are  attracted.  Wall-eyed  and 
northern  pike,  perch,  and  rock  bass  are  plentiful.  Lake  Vermilion,  35  miles 
long,  with  365  islands,  has  a  i,ooo-mile  shoreline  backed  by  coniferous 
trees  and  lofty  hills  of  granite.  It  was  called  Sah-Ga-Ee-Gum-Wah-Ma- 
Mah-Nee,  "lake-of-the-sunset-glow,"  by  the  Chippewa.  Swimming,  boat- 
ing, fishing,  and  canoeing  facilities  are  available  at  numerous  resorts. 

The  remnant  of  a  large  band  of  Chippewa  still  lives  on  the  shores  of 


I52  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

Pike  Bay  (Co.  Rd.  413,  10.5  miles  northeast).  Their  handiwork  is  ex- 
hibited in  the  stores  at  Tower.  A  few  years  ago  the  Government  (see 
Cass  La{e)  transferred  the  majority  of  the  Lake  Vermilion  band  to  the 
Bois  Fort  Reservation  on  Nett  Lake  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  3),  but  many 
preferred  to  stay  where  they  were. 

The  McKinley  Monument  (cor.  Main  and  Alder  Sts.)  was  erected 
shortly  after  the  assassination  of  the  President  in  1901,  and  Tower  gained 
distinction  as  the  first  city  in  the  United  States  to  unveil  a  memorial  in 
his  honor. 

Agriculture  is  being  developed  in  the  surrounding  area,  while  lumber- 
ing, though  a  declining  industry,  is  still  of  some  importance. 


&*<0™^<<0V'&v^*^**0^0^&*^^ 


Two  Harbors 


Arrowhead  Tour  1. 

Railroad  station:     Duluth,  Missabe  &  Iron  Range,  cor.  South  Ave.  and  6th  St. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  530   ist  Ave. 

Taxis:     Three  cab  lines  offer  service  within  city  limits  and  to  surrounding  territory. 

Accommodations:     Eight  hotels  and  lodging  houses;  municipal  tourist  camp,  foot  3rd 

Ave.,  fronting  Burlington  Bay. 

Golf:     Lakeview  Golf  Course  (municipal),  US  61,  4  blocks  E.;  9  holes. 

Tennis:    D.  M.  &  I.  R.  Courts,  710  ist  Ave.;  municipal  court,  cor.  loth  Ave.  and  6th  St. 

Badminton:     Municipal  court,  cor.  loth  Ave.  and  6th  St. 

Annual  events  (exact  dates  vary):     Winter  Frolic,  January;  Lake  County  Fair,  August. 


MINNESOTA'S  FIRST  ORE  PORT 

Two  Harbors  (635  alt.,  4,046  pop.),  Lake  County  seat  and  linked  his- 
torically with  the  Vermilion  Range,  placidly  overlooks  Burlington  and 
Agate  Bays,  from  whose  harbors  it  received  its  name.  The  Chippewa,  ever 
poetic,  called  the  spot  Wass-we-win-ing,  "piace-to-spear-by-moonlight." 

All  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Superior,  including  the  site  of  Two  Harbors, 
was  Indian  territory  until  1855.  The  first  white  settler  on  Agate  Bay  was 
Thomas  Saxton,-  who  arrived  in  1856.  A  village  was  platted  and  named 
for  him.  In  1857,  J.  J.  Hibbard,  with  his  brother  and  brother-in-law,  built 
a  sawmill  at  Burlington  Bay,  which  had  been  platted  in  1856.  These  litde 
villages  succumbed  during  the  financial  panic  of  1857. 

When  iron  ore  was  discovered  on  the  Vermilion  Range,  Two  Harbors — 
then  called  Agate  Bay — was  made  the  Lake  Superior  terminus  of  the 
Duluth  and  Iron  Range  Railroad.  It  was  not  until  1887  that  the  railroad 
was  extended  from  Two  Harbors  to  Duluth.  The  dock  that  received  the 
first  ore  shipped  was  552  feet  long  and  44  feet  high,  and  each  of  the  46 
pockets  had  a  capacity  of  300  tons. 


TWO    HARBORS  153 

The  building  of  the  railroad  brought  an  influx  of  Americans,  Swedes, 
Norwegians,  Danes,  and  Canadians.  "Whiskey  Row,"  popular  name  for 
the  main  street,  extended  from  where  the  lighthouse  now  stands  (foot 
Lighthouse  Rd.)  to  the  site  of  the  present  coal  dock  (beyond  foot  5th  St.; 
visitors  not  permitted).  The  town  spread  to  the  north  and  west.  In  1887, 
the  first  church,  Presbyterian,  was  organized,  with  Reverend  J.  L.  Johnstone 
its  pastor. 

In  1888,  the  seat  of  Lake  County  was  moved  from  Beaver  Bay  to  Two 
Harbors.  Following  the  incorporation  of  the  village  in  that  year,  many 
civic  improvements  were  undertaken.  In  1906,  a  new  courthouse  (cor. 
3rd  Ave.  and  6th  St.)  was  completed  at  a  cost  of  $80,000.  The  village 
became  a  city  in  1907.  As  shipping  and  railroad  facilities  improved,  Two 
Harbors  continued  to  thrive  and  today  it  is  a  busy  lakeside  community,  a 
port  for  iron  ore,  the  trade  center  of  a  developing  agricultural  region,  and 
a  favorite  stopover  for  tourists. 

The  original  iron-ore  dock,  made  of  wood,  the  first  to  be  built  at  the 
head  of  the  lakes,  has  been  replaced  by  three  of  concrete  and  steel  (3,  4,  6 
blocks,  respectively,  southwest  foot  6th  St.;  visitors  not  permitted).  At  one 
time,  Dock  No.  i,  1,368  feet  long  and  59^2  feet  high,  with  202  loading 
pockets,  was  the  largest  iron-ore  dock  in  the  world.  Ten  million  tons  of 
ore  have  been  shipped  in  one  season,  and  nearly  40,000,000  tons  over  a 
six-year  period.  A  record  was  made  when  a  ship  at  Two  Harbors  was 
loaded  with  more  than  12,000  tons  in  16  minutes.  These  three  docks, 
together  with  one  lumber  or  merchandise  and  one  coal  dock,  all  owned  by 
the  Duluth,  Missabe  and  Iron  Range  Railroad,  give  the  harbor  a  combined 
frontage  of  6,000  feet.  Coal  received  here  is  distributed  to  the  Vermilion 
and  Mesabi  ranges. 

The  Duluth,  Missabe  and  Iron  Range  Railroad,  originally  the  Duluth 
and  Iron  Range,  hauls  both  Vermilion  and  eastern  Mesabi  iron  ore  to  the 
docks.  Lumber  is  still  shipped  from  Two  Harbors,  though  in  far  smaller 
quantities  than  formerly. 

The  city  has  three  cooperatives,  retailing  hardware,  groceries,  meats, 
general  merchandise,  and  farm  products. 

The  United  States  Coast  Guard  Service  (bay  front  bet.  6th  and  7th  Sts.) 
maintains  a  year-round  base  here. 

Adjoining  the  Duluth,  Missabe  and  Iron  Range  Railroad  station  are 
relics  of  the  early  railroad  days.  The  Three  Spot,  the  first  locomotive  used 
on  the  Duluth  and  Iron  Range,  brought  from  Duluth  on  a  scow  towed  by 
the  tug  Ella  Stone  during  a  severe  storm,  was  in  use  for  many  years.  The 
old  sleigh  and  wagon,  also  on  display  here,  were  the  means  of  land  trans- 
portation between  Duluth  and  Two  Harbors  for  officials  of  the  company 
during  the  construction  of  the  railroad. 

A  globular  monument  in  Owen's  Park  (6th  St.  bet.  2nd  and  3rd  Aves.) 
commemorates  the  first  shipment  of  iron  ore  from  Minnesota  (1884),  and, 
on  the  lawn  of  the  Public  Library  (cor.  4th  Ave.  and  6th  St.),  are  700- 
pound  samples  of  the  ore.  Owen's  Park  also  contains  a  25-millimeter 
German  Minenwerfer  Howitzer,  taken  by  the  Americans  at  St.  Mihiel  in 
1918,  and  a  bell  once  used  as  the  town's  fire  signal.  In  Courthouse  Square 


154  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

are  a  Soldiers'  Monument  and  a  15,945-pound  cannon  made  in  South 
Boston  in  1884  and  used  in  coast  defense  at  Fort  Monroe,  Virginia. 

Educational  facilities  in  Two  Harbors  are  excellent.  The  city  lies  within 
a  school  district  unique  in  the  State — all  Lake  County,  including  Two 
Harbors,  is  embraced  in  one  consolidated  school  district  governed  by  a 
board  made  up  of  one  member  from  each  of  the  five  commissioner  districts. 

Two  Harbors  is  the  most  important  point  along  the  north  shore  of 
Lake  Superior  between  Duluth  and  the  twin  Canadian  cities  of  Fort 
William  and  Port  Arthur  on  Thunder  Bay. 


c^c^v^v4?x<S>'x^x^x^x4?'>^<^^v^<^^ 


Virginia 


Arrowhead  Tours  2,  8,  4- 

Railroad  stations:  Duluth,  Winnipeg  &  Pacific  (Canadian  National),  537  Chestnut  St.; 
Duluth,  Missabe  &  Iron  Range,  cor.  Chestnut  St.  and  ist  Ave.  S. 

Bus  station:  Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  and  Northern  Transportation  Co.,  3rd  Ave. 
bet.  Chestnut  St.  and  ist  St.  N. 

Local  bus  line:  Lambert  Motor  Coach  Co.,  $rd  Ave.  bet.  Chestnut  St.  and  ist  St.  N., 
offers  service  within  city  limits. 

Airport:  Municipal,  cor.  Hollywood  Ave.  and  Wilson  St.,  2  miles  S.W.;  4  sod  run- 
ways, all  300  feet  wide;  the  name  VIRGINIA  imbedded  in  field;  facilities  for  servicing 
aircraft  during  day  only. 

Taxis:     Three  cab  lines  offer  service  within  city  limits  and  to  surrounding  territory. 
Accommodations:     Three  hotels;   municipal   tourist  camp,   west  end   Chestnut  St.,  on 
Silver  Lake;  tourist  homes. 

Information  service:  Virginia  Chamber  of  Commerce,  City  Hall,  cor.  4th  Ave.  and  ist 
St.  S.;  Tourist  Bureau,  6th  Ave.  and  3rd  St.  N. 

Recreational  facilities:     Memorial  Bldg.,  cor.  3rd  Ave.  and  ist  St.  S. 
Golf:     Municipal,  cor.  gth  Ave.  and  9th  St.  N.;  18  holes. 
Tennis:     Municipal  courts. 
Annual  event  (exact  dates  vary):     Civic  Exposition,  October. 


QUEEN  CITY  OF  THE  RANGE 


Virginia  (1,438  alt.,  12,264  pop.),  the  second  largest  municipality  of 
the  iron  ranges,  sits  enthroned  near  the  crest  of  the  Great  Laurentian  High- 
land Divide.  Its  history  is  written  in  the  story  of  lumbering  and  mining. 

With  the  iron-ore  fever  spreading  as  the  result  of  the  discovery  of  iron 
ore  on  the  Mesabi  (see  Mountain  Iron),  prospectors  and  timber  cruisers 
swarmed  over  the  region.  In  1892,  the  Missabe  Mountain  Mine  (east  end 
Chestnut  St.)  was  discovered  by  Captain  Cohoe,  an  employee  of  the 
Merritts.  In  the  same  year,  at  the  height  of  the  boom,  the  Virginia  Im- 
provement Company  platted  the  town  site,  naming  it  in  honor  of  Alfred  E. 
Humphrey,  president  of  the  company,  whose  home  was  in  the  State  of 


VIRGINIA  155 

Virginia.  That  this  was  virgin  country  covered  with  stands  of  virgin  pine 
gave  the  name  further  significance. 

The  original  plat  of  80  acres  was  recorded  in  September,  1892,  and  the 
first  lots  were  sold  at  public  auction  in  Duluth,  where  eager  buyers,  excited 
by  the  news  of  ore  deposits,  paid  from  $300  to  $400  for  small  business  sites 
in  the  timber  they  never  had  seen.  Pine  was  slashed  to  make  the  main 
thoroughfare,  now  Chestnut  Street.  Rough  buildings  were  thrown  to- 
gether, and  businessmen,  lumbermen,  investors,  lumberjacks,  and  cruisers 
flooded  into  the  settlement.  A  small  portable  mill  on  the  east  side  of  Silver 
Lake  marked  the  beginning  of  industry. 

On  November  12,  1892,  Virginia  became  a  village  after  its  initial  elec- 
tion, at  which  66  ballots  were  cast  by  the  resident  population  of  181. 
Development  was  slow  until  1893,  when  the  Duluth,  Missabe  and  Northern 
Railroad  built  a  spur  track  from  Wolf  Junction,  to  handle  heavy  mining 
machinery. 

The  Virginia  Enterprise  was  founded  by  A.  E.  Bickford,  who  also  was 
its  sole  staff  member;  it  was  printed  at  Hurley,  Wisconsin,  whence  it  was 
brought  to  Virginia,  often  with  the  mail,  in  a  trunk. 

Reverend  E.  N.  Raymond  spent  his  first  Sunday  watching  a  poker 
game,  which  he  finally  broke  up  by  announcing  that,  since  he  had  watched 
their  play  all  day,  it  was  only  fair  the  players  should  watch  his.  About  80 
men  attended;  thus  church  activities  (Presbyterian)  were  inaugurated. 

By  the  middle  of  the  year,  with  15  developed  mines  in  the  district,  the 
population  of  the  town  had  grown  to  5,000. 

Then  came  two  serious  setbacks.  On  June  18,  1893,  a  forest  fire  de- 
stroyed practically  the  entire  village.  Close  on  its  heels  spread  a  financial 
panic.  Many  who  had  invested  in  the  mines  were  unable  to  hold  their 
interests.  Work  was  almost  at  a  standstill,  and  wages,  when  paid  at  all, 
were  very  low. 

Iron  from  the  near-by  rich  deposits  must  have  seeped  into  their  very 
blood,  for  the  Virginians  refused  to  accept  defeat,  and  set  about  rebuilding 
their  town. 

In  1894,  another  period  of  rapid  development  began,  and  on  April  i, 
1895,  the  village  was  incorporated  as  a  city.  Although  many  families  left 
during  the  hard  years  that  followed,  Virginia  continued  to  grow. 

As  railroad  facilities  were  extended  into  the  pine  lands  to  the  north, 
lumbering  became  a  major  source  of  income,  second  only  to  mining.  The 
Bailey  sawmill  was  erected  in  1895,  and  two  more  were  in  operation  to 
1900;  Virginia  had  become  one  of  the  leading  lumber  centers  of  northern 
Minnesota. 

On  June  7,  1900,  another  fire,  starting  in  the  Finlayson  Mill,  destroyed 
the  town.  Again  the  Virginians  had  to  rebuild,  but  this  time  all  construc- 
tion on  the  main  business  street  was  restricted  to  brick,  stone,  or  concrete. 
Following  the  second  fire,  the  population  dropped  to  2,692,  but  five  years 
later  it  had  increased  to  6,056. 

Virginia  had  found  its  stride,  and  the  period  between  1904  and  1913 
was  one  of  rapid  expansion;  13  contracts  for  schools  were  let;  more  saw- 
mills opened,  notably  the  Virginia  and  Rainy  Lake  Lumber  Company's 


156  THE     MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD     COUNTRY 

white  pine  mill  in  1909;  railroad  facilities  were  expanded,  and  the  district 
headquarters  of  the  Oliver  Iron  Mining  Company  moved  here  from  Moun- 
tain Iron  in  1910. 

With  the  depletion  of  the  forests,  the  lumber  industry  declined,  though 
the  W.  T.  Bailey  Lumber  Company  (708  6th  Ave.  N.)  still  produces  35,000 
feet  of  pine  lumber  daily.  Mining  has  grown  steadily,  and  Virginia's  20 
iron  mines,  both  underground  and  open  pit,  have  made  it  one  of  the 
most  important  communities  of  the  three  Arrowhead  ranges. 

The  Missabe  Mountain  is  the  largest  single  iron-ore  producing  mine 
in  the  world,  shipping  about  7,000  tons  per  day.  The  Wheeling  Steel  Cor- 
poration, the  Republic  Iron  and  Steel  Corporation,  the  Oliver  Iron  Mining 
Company,  the  Interstate  Iron  Company,  and  the  Evergreen  Mining  Com- 
pany all  operate  in  the  vicinity. 

Virginia  is  a  large  trade  center,  having  264  retail  establishments,  several 
small  factories,  and  one  cooperative  and  two  independent  creameries. 
There  are  three  cooperative  stores,  clearing  through  the  Range  Cooperative 
Federation. 

Varied  activities  have  brought  an  influx  of  many  nationalities.  The 
Finnish  influence  is  evident  in  the  place  names  of  surrounding  communi- 
ties: Palo,  Makinen,  and  Toivola. 

The  city  is  rightly  proud  of  its  public  buildings.  In  1904,  all  school 
buildings  were  frame  structures  except  Roosevelt  High  School,  the  first 
brick  school  building  on  the  range.  The  new  Roosevelt  High  (cor.  5th 
Ave.  S.  and  3rd  St.),  completed  in  1929,  is  of  Gothic  design  and  elaborately 
equipped.  The  Technical  Building,  opposite  and  equally  imposing,  houses 
the  Junior  High  and  Junior  College.  Its  auditorium,  with  a  seating 
capacity  of  1,500,  has  complete  sound-movie  apparatus. 

Memorial  Building  (open),  erected  in  1919  at  a  cost  of  $500,000,  com- 
memorates the  city's  World  War  dead.  It  has  50,000  feet  of  floor  space; 
the  main  floor  is  used  for  dancing  during  summer  and  in  winter  for 
hockey  and  skating.  In  the  basement  are  clubrooms,  a  large  dining  room 
with  adjoining  kitchens,  and  a  seven-lane  curling  rink. 

The  City  Hall  (cor.  4th  Ave.  S.  and  ist  St.)  is  a  four-story  reinforced 
concrete  and  brick  structure.  The  Courthouse  (cor.  5th  Ave.  S.  and  2nd 
St.),  of  cream-colored  brick,  is  one  of  St.  Louis  County's  two  fulltime 
auxiliary  courthouses.  The  Public  Library  (cor.  5th  Ave.  S.  and  2nd  St.) 
contains  over  41,300  volumes,  of  which  5,315  are  at  the  North  Branch 
(cor.  7th  Ave.  N.  and  nth  St.). 

Virginia  was  one  of  the  first  cities  in  the  State  to  adopt  a  commission 
form  of  government.  Gas,  water,  light,  and  heat  are  furnished  by  munici- 
pal plants.  These  utilities  are  administered  by  the  City  Water  and  Light 
Commission,  with  headquarters  in  its  own  building  (620  2nd  St.  S.). 

Interest  in  music  is  fostered  by  four  organizations:  Municipal  Band, 
Municipal  Symphony  Orchestra,  High  School  Band,  and  High  School 
Orchestra.  Weekly  concerts  are  held  in  the  Technical  School  during 
winter;  during  the  summer,  on  Wednesday  evenings  at  South  Side  Park 
(cor.  5th  Ave.  S.  and  nth  St.),  and  on  Sunday  evenings  in  Olcott  Park 
(cor.  9th  Ave.  N.  and  9th  St.). 


WALKER  157 

Olcott  Park,  40  landscaped  acres,  contains  a  zoo  and  also  boasts  an 
intricate  floral  display  of  special  design,  a  monkey  island,  and  an  electric, 
multi-colored  fountain.  Baseball,  hockey,  fishing,  and  other  sport  facilities 
are  available. 

The  Superior  National  Forest,  Lake  Vermilion,  and  the  border  lakes 
are  within  easy  driving  distance  and  attract  a  large  tourist  trade. 


Walker 


Arrowhead  Tour  8. 

Railroad  stations:     Great  Northern,  I2th  St.  bet.  Birch  and  Maple  Aves.;  Minnesota  & 

International,  cor.  Railroad  and  5th  Sts. 

Bus  station:     Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  Minnesota  Ave.  bet.  5th  and  6th  Sts. 

Airport:     Tianna  Golf  Club  Field,  State  34,  2  miles  S.W.;  no  hangar  or  service. 

Taxis:     One  cab  line  offers  service  within  village  limits  and  to  surrounding  territory. 

Accommodations:     Two  hotels;   municipal  tourist  camp,  2nd  St.  bet.  Minnesota  Ave. 

and  Prospect  Place. 

Information  service:    Information  Bureau,  Conservation  Bldg.,  Minnesota  Ave.  bet.  2nd 

and  3rd  Sts. 

Golf:     Tianna  Country  Club,  State  34,  I  mile  S.;  10  holes. 

Tennis:     Conservation  Bldg. 

Swimming:     Municipal  beach,  cor.  Cleveland  Blvd.  and  3rd  St. 

Riding  academy:     Danworthy  Camp  for  Girls,  State  34,  3  miles  S.W. 

Annual  event  (exact  dates  vary):  Flower  Show,  August. 

VACATIONER'S  PARADISE 

Walker  (1,336  alt.,  939  pop.),  Cass  County  seat,  is  located  in  the  south- 
west corner  of  Chippewa  National  Forest,  on  an  Indian  reservation  (see 
Cass  Laf^e),  and  along  the  shores  of  historic  Leech  Lake. 

Indians  have  lived  along  the  pine-covered  shores  of  this  lake  for  cen- 
turies. The  first  white  men  to  penetrate  the  area  bought  pelts  from  them, 
and  soon  fur-trading  posts  were  established.  One  of  these  posts  stood  a 
few  miles  from  the  site  of  the  present  Walker,  on  a  point  jutting  into 
Leech  Lake. 

When  Cass  County  was  established  in  1851,  the  influx  of  lumbermen 
already  had  begun.  Thomas  Barlow  Walker  in  1868  purchased  a  large 
stand  of  pine  in  the  vicinity.  A  few  years  later,  he  sold  the  ground  on 
which  the  village  was  built  to  the  Leech  Lake  Land  Company,  reserving 
rights  to  the  timber.  After  the  village  was  established  and  named  in  his 
honor  (incorporated  1896),  he  sent  in  his  timber  cutters.  The  settlers  pro- 
tested, and  their  attempt  to  drive  the  cutters  out  was  the  cause  of  bitter 
resentment  for  many  years. 

In  1897,  the  Park  Rapids  and  Leech  Lake  Railroad  was  constructed  be- 
tween Park  Rapids,  Walker,  and  Cass  Lake  and,  in  1899,  was  leased  to  the 


158  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

Great  Northern;  in  1900,  the  Minnesota  and  International  was  extended 
to  Walker,  and  took  over  the  Brainerd  and  Northern  in  1901  (see 
Brainerd). 

The  soil,  a  mixed  black,  brown,  and  sandy  clay,  is  adapted  to  the  raising 
of  small  grains,  potatoes,  and  grasses.  Dairying  has  become  the  leading 
industry;  an  independent  creamery  began  operations  in  1923. 

The  county  offices,  jail,  and  sheriff's  residence  are  in  the  modern  Cass 
County  Courthouse  (Minnesota  Ave.  bet.  3rd  and  4th  Sts.),  and  the 
municipal  offices  are  in  the  Village  Hall  (6th  St.  bet.  Minnesota  Ave.  and 
Front  St.),  erected  in  1937.  Pupils  from  the  rural  areas  are  brought  by 
bus  to  the  Walker  Public  School  (cor.  Highland  Ave.  and  4th  St.),  a  brick 
structure.  The  Walker  Museum  (Minnesota  Ave.  bet.  2nd  and  3rd  Sts.), 
started  in  1894,  contains  a  collection  of  native  animals  and  birds.  In  the 
Conservation  Building,  Indian  bead  work  and  articles  of  handicraft  are 
made  and  displayed. 

Herds  on  the  i,ooo-acre  Tianna  Farms  (State  34,  5  miles  south)  include 
100  purebred  Guernsey  and  50  Aberdeen  Angus  cattle  that  have  set  State 
and  national  records.  Approximately  75  per  cent  of  the  Guernseys  have 
the  blood  of  La  Noce  of  Riverside  Farm,  first  Guernsey-bred  cow  to  make 
a  world's  production  record  (see  Barnum). 

Walker  is  in  the  center  of  the  region  known  as  the  Paul  Bunyan  Play- 
ground (see  Brainerd;  Bemidji),  which  each  year  attracts  vacationists, 
fishermen,  and  hunters  to  its  lakes.  Summer  resorts,  built  to  accommodate 
a  steadily  increasing  tourist  trade,  furnish  launch  service  and  provide  both 
Indian  and  white  guides. 


<<0>*s&*<0*s0>Vj0V&*4r*s0^^^ 


PART  IV 

Tours 


^^G*4?*&*&^0^0^0^0rK&^^^ 


^<0K0r*<0rxs0K0r*^0v^rx^^ 

Arrowhead  Tour  1 

(To  See  North  Shore) 

<0*&*<0>*<Or*0r*0rto0rx^0*4r>^^ 

Duluth — Two   Harbors — Beaver  Bay — Grand   Marais — Mineral   Center — 
International  Border — Fort  William — Port  Arthur;  199  m.,  US  61. 

US  61  is  paved  from  Duluth  to  Two  Harbors,  hard-surfaced  to  Arrowhead  (Brule) 
River,  and  graveled  to  border;  Scott  Highway  is  hard-surfaced  from  border  to  Port 
Arthur. 

This  north  shore  tour  runs  northeast  on  US  61,  from  its  junction  with 
US  53,  along  the  shore  of  Lake  Superior  to  Pigeon  River  on  the  inter- 
national border,  through  country  notable  in  the  history  of  the  Minnesota 
Arrowhead;  it  continues  on  Scott  Highway  i  from  Pigeon  River  to  Port 
Arthur.  Good  tourist  facilities  are  available;  there  are  many  summer 
resorts;  and  trout  fishing  is  excellent  in  the  numerous  streams.  Deep-sea 
fishing  is  growing  in  popularity.  Boats  and  equipment  may  be  rented; 
professional  fishermen  are  available  as  guides  (see  General  Information: 
Fishing  and  Hunting). 

DULUTH,  0  m.  (cor.  Superior  St.  and  Piedmont  Ave.)  (602  alt., 
101,065  pop.).  The  waters  of  Lake  Superior  and  Superior  and  St.  Louis 
Bays  ofTer  a  fascinating  playground  (see  Duluth). 

The  country  adjoining  US  61  along  LAKE  SUPERIOR  is,  to  a  large 
extent,  typical  of  the  entire  north  shore.  Norway  pine,  mountain  ash,  and 
white  birch  grow  along  the  shore.  Strawberries,  raspberries,  blueberries, 
and  huckleberries  are  abundant  in  season.  Blossoming  chokecherry  and 
pin  cherry  trees,  violets,  cowslips,  fireweed,  and  buttercups  add  color  to 
woods  and  rocks.  Back  of  the  lake  is  a  line  of  hills  marking  the  escarp- 
ment— a  geologic  fault  or  dislocation  of  the  earth's  crust  (see  Geology) — 
that  extends  far  into  Canada.  At  intervals  along  the  shore,  on  bays  and 
inlets,  are  fishermen's  cottages,  and  nets  stretched  out  on  frames  to  dry. 
The  cascades  and  high  falls  of  streams  draining  the  north  shore  enhance 
the  beauty  of  the  drive. 

The  Duluth  WATER  PUMPING  STATION  (R)  is  in  a  red-brick 
building  at  LAKE  WOOD,  9.4  m.  Duluthians  boast  of  their  unlimited 
supply  of  pure  water,  but  older  citizens  recall  the  city's  long  fight  to  obtain 
it.  In  1883,  the  Duluth  Gas  and  Water  Company,  a  private  corporation, 
was  granted  a  franchise;  a  pumping  station  was  built  at  i4th  Avenue  East. 
The  city  acquired  the  plants  of  the  Duluth  Gas  and  Water  Company  in 

161 


l62  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

1898,  and  the  pumping  station  at  Lakewood  was  then  constructed.  All  the 
water  delivered  by  the  main  water  works  system  is  pumped  from  Lake 
Superior  at  the  Lakewood  Pumping  Station.  It  is  drawn  into  the  station 
through  a  five-foot  intake  pipe,  about  1,560  feet  in  length,  which  terminates 
in  water  about  75  feet  deep.  This  end  of  the  intake  is  an  elbow,  so  the 
water  actually  is  drawn  from  a  depth  of  about  60  feet  below  the  surface  o£ 
the  lake.  Pumping  is  ordinarily  done  by  one  of  the  three  electrically 
driven  centrifugal  pumps,  which  together  have  a  total  daily  capacity  of 
some  57,000,000  gallons.  In  1939,  the  daily  average  of  water  pumped  was 
11,139,781  gallons.  The  total  available  capacity  of  reservoirs,  tanks,  and 
cisterns  is  almost  51,000,000  gallons.  There  are  262.54  miles  of  water 
mains. 

The  STATE  FISH  HATCHERY  (L),  12.7  m.,  at  FRENCH  RIVER, 
a  small  settlement,  supplies  a  greater  variety  of  freshwater  fish  than  any 
other  State  hatchery.  Several  millions  each  of  lake  trout,  pike,  and  white- 
fish  are  reared  annually,  in  addition  to  hundreds  of  thousands  of  rainbow 
and  brook  trout  and  other  varieties  in  lesser  quantities. 

At  16.2  m.  is  the  historic  SITE  OF  BUCHANAN  (Marker  R.),  where 
the  Arrowhead's  first  Federal  Land  Office  was  established  during  the  boom 
in  1856. 

KNIFE  RIVER,  19.4  m.  (627  alt.,  125  pop.),  was  so  named  because 
of  the  sharp-edged  stones  in  the  river  that  divides  the  town.  It  was  settled 
by  copper  prospectors,  the  first  of  whom  came  in  1854  in  anticipation  of 
the  opening  of  the  north  shore  to  white  settlement  by  the  Treaty  of  La 
Pointe;  others  followed  in  the  i86o's  and  1 870*5.  No  paying  lode  was 
found,  however,  but  lumbering  operations  were  started  on  a  small  scale. 
In  1898,  the  Alger-Smith  Lumber  Company  made  Knife  River  the  terminus 
of  its  railroad,  which  ran  northeast  into  Lake  and  Cook  counties.  The 
settlement  continued  to  thrive  as  a  lumbering  center  until  1919,  when  the 
Alger-Smith  Company  sold  its  interests.  In  1929,  it  received  impetus  from 
a  short-lived  attempt  to  mine  copper. 

TWO  HARBORS,  27  m.  (635  alt.,  4,046  pop.)  (see  Two  Harbors): 
Ore  Docks,  Old  Three  Spot,  Old  Sleigh  and  Wagon,  7oo-pound  Samples 
of  First  Ore  Taken  from  a  Minnesota  Mine,  Commemorative  Globular 
Monument,  U.  S.  Coast  Guard  Station,  Soldiers'  Monument,  Fort  Monroe 
Cannon,  German  Minenwerfer  Howitzer. 

At  SILVER  CREEK  CLIFF,  32.7  m.,  the  road  passes  under  a  birch 
arch  and  winds  upward  to  the  face  of  a  precipice  overhanging  the  lake. 
The  highway  was  cut  with  great  difficulty,  because  loose  rock,  shaken  by 
the  blasting,  broke  off  the  top  and  side  of  the  cliff,  and  repeatedly  blocked 
the  road. 

A  BRONZE  PLAQUE  (R)  mounted  on  granite  in  the  retaining  wall 
along  the  road  gives  data  pertaining  to  Lake  Superior — known  to  the 
Indians  as  Kitchi  Gummi. 

At  ENCAMPMENT  RIVER,  34.3  m.,  a  narrow  section  of  virgin 
timber  has  been  saved  by  owners  of  summer  homes  in  the  neighborhood. 

CROW  CREEK,  38.2  m.t  is  called  also  Prohibition  Creek  because  it 
usually  is  dry. 


N, 


164  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

GOOSEBERRY  STATE  PARK,  40.9  m.  (R.  and  L),  extending  from 
the  lake  along  both  sides  of  GOOSEBERRY  RIVER,  was  created  in  1933 
and  includes  638  acres.  Visible  just  above  the  highway  bridge  is  a 
WATERFALL,  at  the  foot  of  which  is  a  NATURAL  SWIMMING 
POOL;  below  the  highway  are  three  lesser  FALLS.  Along  the  grassy 
ravine,  parking  spaces  afford  fine  views  of  lake  and  river.  There  are  sub- 
stantial stone  buildings  with  fireplaces,  stoves,  and  tables.  On  the  bluff 
above  the  lake  are  outdoor  fireplaces,  firewood,  tables,  benches,  and  drink- 
ing fountains. 

SPLIT  ROCK  RIVER,  45.1  m.,  so-called  because  of  the  rocky  canyon 
at  its  mouth,  flows  into  Lake  Superior  across  a  wide  sand  bar. 
-  At  48.1  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  gravel  road. 

Right  on  this  road  is  SPLIT  ROCK  LIGHTHOUSE  (open  daily  8  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m., 
July  i  to  Sept.  /),  0.3  m.,  perched  high  on  a  cliff  overlooking  dangerous  reefs.  Its 
light  is  1 68  feet  above  the  level  of  Lake  Superior.  It  is  of  great  value  to  mariners, 
for  magnetic  rock  formations  in  the  area  divert  compass  needles.  An  iron  stairway 
leads  from  the  top  of  the  rock  to  the  lake  shore. 

BEAVER  BAY,  52.8  m.  (602  alt.,  unincorporated)  (see  Beaver  Bay), 
at  the  mouth  of  BEAVER  RIVER. 

At  58.1  m.  is  PALISADE  HEAD,  a  massive  headland  of  basalt. 

Right  on  a  winding  gravel  road  is  a  lookout  point,  0.5  m.,  atop  a  348-foot  precipice 
that  stands  as  it  was  when  the  walls  of  the  crater  crashed  and  formed  the  basin  of 
Lake  Superior  (see  Geology}.  From  this  and  other  vantage  points  boats  far  out  on  the 
lake  are  visible,  and  on  clear  days  even  the  Apostle  Islands,  30  miles  distant,  can  be 
seen.  There  are  picnic  grounds  with  tables  and  fireplaces,  but  no  water. 

BAPTISM  RIVER,  59.6  m.f  called  "Au  Bapteme"  by  a  French  trader, 
has  many  falls  and  rapids  and  a  deep  canyon  at  its  mouth;  it  is  one  of 
the  best  trout  streams  on  the  north  shore. 

CRYSTAL  BAY,  60.4  m.,  is  noteworthy  for  several  points  of  scenic 
and  historic  interest. 

Left  from  the  highway  is  a  footpath  leading  to  MOUNT  MARY  LOOKOUT,  1.5  m., 
which  offers  an  excellent  view  of  lake  arid  shore  line.  Right  from  the  highway  on  a 
dirt  road  is  the  HUDSON'S  BAY  TRAIL,  0.1  m.,  over  which  mail  was  carried  from 
Two  Harbors  to  Grand  Portage.  To  the  left  of  the  pathway  is  a  FLAGPOLE — remnant 
of  the  old  log  schoolhouse  that  was  used  by  both  Indians  and  whites  until  1905.  A  foot- 
path continues  straight  ahead  to  a  promontory,  0.3  m.,  overlooking  the  bay  and  the 
remains  of  a  CORUNDUM  MINE  that  operated  from  1903  to  1906,  when  it  was 
abandoned  because  of  poor  shipping  facilities.  At  the  northeastern  end  is  CAVE  OF 
WAVES,  a  natural  rock  formation  through  which  a  passage  large  enough  for  rowboats 
and  canoes  has  been  worn  through  by  the  action  of  the  waves. 

ILLGEN  CITY,  60.7  m.,  is  at  the  junction  with  State  i  (see  Arrow- 
head Tour  4)> 

MANITOU  RIVER,  69.6  m.,  in  a  deep  gorge,  is  crossed  on  a  high 
curving  bridge.  Rainbow  and  speckled  trout  are  abundant,  and  a  typical 
Northern  flower,  the  white  rock-saxifrage,  grows  on  the  cold  wet  rocks. 


ARROWHEAD    TOUR     I  165 

Left  from  the  highway  on  a  footpath  is  an  80 -foot  WATERFALL,  0.1  m.  Right 
from  the  highway  is  a  footpath  leading  to  the  lakeshore,  0.5  m.,  where  are  high  gray 
overhanging  cliffs.  At  the  base  of  one  is  a  deep  CAVE;  it  is  possible  to  scramble  down 
to  the  narrow  beach,  where  sometimes  a  sand  bar,  ten  to  15  feet  wide,  closes  the  river's 
mouth,  forming  a  BAY  into  which  the  river  plunges. 

TWO  ISLAND  RIVER,  78.8  m.,  so  named  because  of  two  islands, 
GULL  and  BEAR,  opposite  its  mouth,  offers  excellent  lake  trout  fishing. 
Agates  are  found  on  the  beach  and  occasionally  thomsonites,  imbedded 
semiprecious  stones  formed  by  mineral  deposition  in  gas  or  steam  bubbles 
of  lava  flows.  Gulls  nest  on  the  ledges  of  the  island  cliffs. 

At  SCHROEDER,  80.8  m.  (100  pop.),  a  small  resort  and  fishing 
settlement,  a  bridge  spans  CROSS  RIVER,  named  for  FATHER 
BARAGA'S  CROSS. 

The  original  wooden  cross,  erected  in  1846  by  this  Roman  Catholic 
missionary  after  he  had  made  a  perilous  journey  across  Lake  Superior 
from  La  Pointe,  has  been  replaced  by  a  granite  one  that  stands  on  the 
footpath  leading  R.  from  the  highway.  Frederic  Baraga,  "Apostle  of  the 
Chippewa,"  was  born  at  Carniola,  Austria,  June  29,  1797,  and,  in  1830, 
after  giving  up  a  life  of  wealth  to  become  a  priest,  came  to  this  country. 
He  spent  the  rest  of  his  life  ministering  to  the  Indians  of  the  Upper  Great 
Lakes  region.  Baraga  published  the  first  grammar  of  the  Chippewa  lan- 
guage in  1850,  and  compiled  a  dictionary  that  was  issued  in  1853.  In  the 
same  year  he  was  consecrated  a  Bishop,  the  first  to  have  episcopal  jurisdic- 
tion over  any  part  of  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead.  It  has  been  told  that  once 
he  walked  57  miles  on  snowshoes  to  baptize  a  dying  infant.  His  example 
and  persuasiveness  brought  some  20  other  missionaries  from  his  home- 
land to  the  wilderness  regions  of  the  New  World  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  3). 
He  died  in  1868  and  was  buried  in  the  Cathedral  at  Marquette,  Michigan. 
In  1930,  when  the  centenary  of  his  coming  to  America  was  celebrated  in 
the  Midwest,  a  movement  for  his  beatification  was  started,  a  step  toward 
canonization. 

TEMPERANCE  RIVER,  82.8  m.,  received  its  name  because  it  is  the 
only  north  shore  stream  without  a  bar  at  its  mouth.  A  public  campground 
(L)  contains  tables  and  fireplaces. 

Here  the  road  passes  between  the  lake  (602  alt.)  and  CARLTON 
PEAK  (1,529  alt.).  A  part  of  the  Sawtooth  Range,  Carlton  Peak  is  the 
highest  point  on  the  north  shore  this  side  of  the  border. 

TOFTE,  84.3  m.,  is  at  the  junction  with  the  Temperance  River  Road. 

Left  on  the  Temperance  River  Road  to  SAWBILL  LAKE,  21.8  m.  (see  Superior 
National  Forest:  Canoe  Trip  6). 

ONION  RIVER,  88.6  m.,  owes  its  name  to  a  Paul  Bunyan  legend. 
The  river  was  formed — so  the  story  goes — by  tears  the  great  logger  and  his 
crew  shed  while  cutting  timber  in  the  vicinity,  where  wild  onions  grew  in 
profusion. 

At  LUTSEN,  92  m.  (700  alt.,  50  pop.),  a  summer  resort  town,  the 
POPLAR  RIVER  flows  between  vertical  cliffs.  At  the  bottom  of  the 
gorge  are  several  pot  holes. 


l66  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

CASCADE  RIVER,  101.5  m.,  named  from  a  series  of  beautiful  water- 
falls near  its  mouth,  has  Cascade,  Little  Cascade,  Swamp,  Eagle,  and  Zoo 
lakes,  as  well  as  the  large  Island  Lake.  It  flows  through  2,3oo-acre  CAS- 
CADE STATE  PARK  where  camping  spots  have  been  cleared,  fireplaces, 
tables,  and  benches  built,  and  trails  cut  along  the  gorge  and  lake  shore. 
Here  woods  are  sparse,  cut-over  and  burned  areas  stretch  far  up  into  the 
hills,  and  only  thin  underbrush  softens  the  rugged  shore  line. 

GRAND  MARAIS,  111.1  m.  (616  alt.,  855  pop.)  (see  Grand  Marais): 
U.  S.  Coast  Guard  Station,  Lighthouse.  Boat  service  to  Isle  Royale. 

ISLE  ROYALE — declared  a  National  Park  in  1940 — 160  miles  northeast  of  Duluth, 
is  the  largest  island  in  Lake  Superior,  measuring  about  45  miles  in  length  and  from 
five  to  eight  miles  in  width.  The  island  contains  approximately  205  square  miles. 
Isle  Royale  is  reached  by  boat  from.  Duluth,  Grand  Marais,  Grand  Portage  and  Port 
Arthur. 

Its  virgin  forests  of  spruce  and  pine,  its  32  lakes  and  four  excellent  harbors  attract 
tourists,  sportsmen,  and  nature  lovers.  The  many  inland  lakes,  open  glades,  magnificent 
coniferous  and  hardwood  forests,  and  shore  line  broken  with  coves,  add  to  the  attractive- 
ness of  this  rock-ribbed  island.  The  rare  combination  of  forest  and  inland  waterways, 
together  with  its  comparative  inaccessibility,  makes  it  a  sanctuary  for  wild  life — a  choice 
place  for  the  study  of  plants  and  animals. 

Many  commercial  fishermen  have  settled  along  its  shores,  but  few  stay  during  winter 
months,  when  radio  is  the  only  means  of  communication  with  the  mainland.  Fishing 
is  permitted  on  Isle  Royale  under  the  Michigan  law.  A  State  license  is  required. 
Fishing  guides  may  be  engaged. 

Camping  is  permitted  at  several  locations,  and  many  organized  parties  and  small 
groups  come  to  the  island  with  their  own  boats  to  spend  a  week  camping  and  fishing. 
Camping  parties  should  advise  the  National  Park  Service,  Isle  Royale  headquarters,  of 
their  planned  schedule. 

As  there  are  no  roads  on  Isle  Royale,  travel  is  by  foot  trail  and  boat.  Boats  may  be 
rented  for  short  trips. 

From  June  15  through  September  15,  lodge  rooms  and  guest  cabins  are  available  at 
Rock  Harbor  Lodge,  Rock  Harbor;  Belle  Isle  Resort,  Belle  Harbor;  and,  by  midsummer, 
limited  facilities  may  be  available  at  Washington  Harbor. 

Among  other  interesting  features  of  the  island  arc  its  ancient  copper  mines.  Traces 
of  mining1  camps,  with  the  broken  "hammer  stones"  used  to  crush  the  rock,  indicate 
that  Indians  mined  copper  on  the  island.  White  men  began  to  extract  copper  about 
1850,  apparently  without  profit,  but  the  abandoned  mines  as  well  as  evidences  of  Indian 
culture  still  remain.  In  1921,  the  ruins  of  a  prehistoric  city  were  uncovered  on  the 
island's  south  shore. 

The  first  known  record  of  copper  was  that  of  Pierre  Boucher  in  1664.  He  described 
Isle  Royale  as  he  had  heard  of  it  from  a  group  of  traders  who  explored  the  lake  in 
1660.  Nevertheless,  the  island — called  "Minong"  by  the  Indians — remained  virtually 
unknown  for  almost  200  years,  appearing  on  Jesuit  maps  as  Isle  Royale,  in  honor  of 
the  French  Monarchy,  but  apparently  considered  of  no  importance.  During  the  War 
of  1812,  boats  were  hidden  in  coves  along  the  shore  line. 

Given  to  Michigan  in  1837,  when  that  State  was  admitted  to  the  Union,  Isle  Royale 
was  opened  to  white  men  by  a  treaty  with  the  Chippewa  in  1843,  and  the  next  few 
years  saw  it  overrun  by  prospectors  and  explorers.  By  1855,  however,  the  island  was 
deserted,  remaining  practically  uninhabited  until  vacationers  chose  it  for  summer  homes 
and  fishermen  began  to  make  a  livelihood  from  its  surrounding  waters. 

Approximately  15  miles  northwest  of  McCargo's  Cove,  on  the  north  side  of  Isle 
Royale,  lies  SILVER  ISLET,  a  mere  speck  of  land,  yet  once  one  of  the  world's  richest 
little  silver  mines.  During  its  ten  years  of  operation,  the  mine  produced  $3>5oo,ooo 
worth  of  the  precious  ore.  In  November,  1884,  when  the  pumps  ceased  to  function 
from  lack  of  fuel,  the  mine  became  flooded,  and  silver  mining  on  the  island  came  to 
an  end. 


ARROWHEAD     TOUR     I  167 

At  Grand  Marais  is  the  junction  with  the  GUNFLINT  TRAIL  (cor. 
Wisconsin  St.  and  2nd  Ave.  W.). 

North  on  the  Gunflint  Trail,  an  improved  road,  narrow,  winding,  and  steep  in  places, 
swings  northwest  into  the  heart  of  the  SUPERIOR  NATIONAL  FOREST  (see  Superior 
National  Forest},  a  rugged  region  of  many  lakes  and  towering,  over-archcing  pines. 
Moose,  bear,  deer,  wolves,  foxes,  porcupine,  and  other  animals  frequent  this  section. 
The  adventurous  canoeist  can  paddle  through  a  maze  of  lakes  and  streams  from  Lake 
Superior  to  the  western  border  of  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead.  Numerous  resorts  of  every 
type  offer  ample  accommodations  at  varying  rates.  The  Federal  Forest  Service  maintains 
campgrounds  with  tables,  benches,  fireplaces,  tent  and  trailer  sites,  and  water;  some  of 
the  camp  and  picnic  grounds  have  bathing  beaches. 

SOUTH  BRULE  RIVER  CAMPGROUND  (R),  14.4  m. 

NORTH  BRULE  RIVER  CAMPGROUND  (R),  18.8  m. 

SWAMPER  LAKE  CAMPGROUND  (L),  25.1  m. 

At  26.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  R.  on  this  road  to  EAST  BEARSKIN 
LAKE  CAMP  AND  PICNIC  GROUNDS,  3  m.  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe 
Trip  2). 

At  29.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  R.  on  this  road  to  FLOUR  LAKE 
CAMPGROUND,  2.5  m.  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe  Trip  2). 

At  30.4  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  R.  on  this  road  to  WEST  BEARSKIN 
LAKE  CAMP  AND  PICNIC  GROUNDS,  1.5  m.  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe 
Trip  2). 

At  31  m.  the  trail  skirts  POPLAR  LAKE  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe\, 
Trip  3). 

There  are  two  IRON  LAKE  CAMPGROUNDS,  one  (L)  at  34.5  m.,  on  the  west 
end  of  the  lake,  and  the  other  (L),  at  38.3  m.,  on  the  east  end. 

At  39  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  R.  on  this  road  to  CRAB  LAKE  CAMP- 
GROUND, 1  m. 

LOON  LAKE  CAMPGROUND  (R),  is  at  41.3  m. 

At  46.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  gravel  road;  R.  on  this  road  is  the  village  of 
GUNFLINT  (unincorporated),  1.5  m.,  at  the  west  end  of  GUNFLINT  LAKE  (see 
Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe  Trip  i}.  To  the  south  is  the  GUNFLINT  IRON 
RANGE,  where  Minnesota  iron  ore  was  first  discovered.  In  1850,  J.  G.  Norwood, 
assistant  geologist  with  the  D.  D.  Owens  Survey,  collected  samples  here  and  sent  them 
to  the  Smithsonian  Institution;  some  were  exhibited  at  the  International  Exposition  in 
Paris.  It  was  found  that  the  ore  contained  too  much  titanium  to  make  mining 
profitable. 

At  48.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  MAGNETIC  ROCK  TRAIL. 

R.  here  to  MAGNETIC  ROCK,  1.9  m.,  an  ancient  Indian  landmark  24  feet  high, 
whose  location  unknown  for  many  years  was  only  recently  rediscovered.  The  rock  is 
highly  magnetic  and  causes  compasses  in  the  vicinity  to  function  inaccurately. 

At  52.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  L.  to  ROUND  LAKE,  or  Cross  River, 
2  m.  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe  Trip  4). 

At  52.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  trail;  L.  to  the  site  of  the  PAULSON  MINE  (R), 
1m.,  which  probably  was  opened  during  the  height  of  the  fever  of  exploration  for  iron 
ore.  Its  first  owner  was  a  man  named  Paulson.  Later  a  group  of  interested  Canadians 
built  a  railroad  from  Port  Arthur.  This  road,  the  Port  Arthur,  Duluth  and  Western, 
commonly  referred  to  as  the  P.  D.  &  W.,  always  was  in  financial  difficulties  and  was 
known  to  railroad  men  as  the  Poverty,  Distress,  and  Want.  Paulson  died  and  the  mine 
was  purchased  first  by  a  Minneapolis  banker,  then  by  a  Detroit  man,  but  finally,  because 
of  depression  years,  the  venture  was  abandoned.  Recently  members  of  a  Civilian  Con- 
servation Corps  found  an  old  warehouse  near  here,  containing  ten  tons  of  dynamite, 
which,  upon  orders  from  Government  officials,  they  destroyed. 

SEA  GULL  LAKE  CAMP  AND  PICNIC  GROUNDS  (L),  56.4  m.  (see  Superior 
National  Forest:  Canoe  Trips  4,  5). 

The  trail  ends  at  BIG  SAGANAGA  LAKE,  59.5  m.  (resorts,  swimming,  fishing, 
canoes;  varying  rates}  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe  Trips  i,  5).  Retrace  to 
US  61. 


l66  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

CASCADE  RIVER,  101.5  m.,  named  from  a  series  of  beautiful  water- 
falls near  its  mouth,  has  Cascade,  Little  Cascade,  Swamp,  Eagle,  and  Zoo 
lakes,  as  well  as  the  large  Island  Lake.  It  flows  through  2,3oo-acre  CAS- 
CADE STATE  PARK  where  camping  spots  have  been  cleared,  fireplaces, 
tables,  and  benches  built,  and  trails  cut  along  the  gorge  and  lake  shore. 
Here  woods  are  sparse,  cut-over  and  burned  areas  stretch  far  up  into  the 
hills,  and  only  thin  underbrush  softens  the  rugged  shore  line. 

GRAND  MARAIS,  111.1  m.  (616  alt.,  855  pop.)  (see  Grand  Marais): 
U.  S.  Coast  Guard  Station,  Lighthouse.  Boat  service  to  Isle  Royale. 

ISLE  ROYALE — declared  a  National  Park  in  1940 — 160  miles  northeast  of  Duluth, 
is  the  largest  island  in  Lake  Superior,  measuring  about  45  miles  in  length  and  from 
five  to  eight  miles  in  width.  The  island  contains  approximately  205  square  miles. 
Isle  Royale  is  reached  by  boat  from  Duluth,  Grand  Marais,  Grand  Portage  and  Port 
Arthur. 

Its  virgin  forests  of  spruce  and  pine,  its  32  lakes  and  four  excellent  harbors  attract 
tourists,  sportsmen,  and  nature  lovers.  The  many  inland  lakes,  open  glades,  magnificent 
coniferous  and  hardwood  forests,  and  shore  line  broken  with  coves,  add  to  the  attractive- 
ness of  this  rock-ribbed  island.  The  rare  combination  of  forest  and  inland  waterways, 
together  with  its  comparative  inaccessibility,  makes  it  a  sanctuary  for  wild  life — a  choice 
place  for  the  study  of  plants  and  animals. 

Many  commercial  fishermen  have  settled  along  its  shores,  but  few  stay  during  winter 
months,  when  radio  is  the  only  means  of  communication  with  the  mainland.  Fishing 
is  permitted  on  Isle  Royale  under  the  Michigan  law.  A  State  license  is  required. 
Fishing  guides  may  be  engaged. 

Camping  is  permitted  at  several  locations,  and  many  organized  parties  and  small 
groups  come  to  the  island  with  their  own  boats  to  spend  a  week  camping  and  fishing. 
Camping  parties  should  advise  the  National  Park  Service,  Isle  Royale  headquarters,  of 
their  planned  schedule. 

As  there  are  no  roads  on  Isle  Royale,  travel  is  by  foot  trail  and  boat.  Boats  may  be 
rented  for  short  trips. 

From  June  15  through  September  15,  lodge  rooms  and  guest  cabins  are  available  at 
Rock  Harbor  Lodge,  Rock  Harbor;  Belle  Isle  Resort,  Belle  Harbor;  and,  by  midsummer, 
limited  facilities  may  be  available  at  Washington  Harbor. 

Among  other  interesting  features  of  the  island  arc  its  ancient  copper  mines.  Traces 
of  mining1  camps,  with  the  broken  "hammer  stones"  used  to  crush  the  rock,  indicate 
that  Indians  mined  copper  on  the  island.  White  men  began  to  extract  copper  about 
1850,  apparently  without  profit,  but  the  abandoned  mines  as  well  as  evidences  of  Indian 
culture  still  remain.  In  1921,  the  ruins  of  a  prehistoric  city  were  uncovered  on  the 
island's  south  shore. 

The  first  known  record  of  copper  was  that  of  Pierre  Boucher  in  1664.  He  described 
Isle  Royale  as  he  had  heard  of  it  from  a  group  of  traders  who  explored  the  lake  in 
1660.  Nevertheless,  the  island — called  "Minong"  by  the  Indians — remained  virtually 
unknown  for  almost  200  years,  appearing  on  Jesuit  maps  as  Isle  Royale,  in  honor  of 
the  French  Monarchy,  but  apparently  considered  of  no  importance.  During  the  War 
of  1812,  boats  were  hidden  in  coves  along  the  shore  line. 

Given  to  Michigan  in  1837,  when  that  State  was  admitted  to  the  Union,  Isle  Royale 
was  opened  to  white  men  by  a  treaty  with  the  Chippewa  in  1843,  and  the  next  few 
years  saw  it  overrun  by  prospectors  and  explorers.  By  1855,  however,  the  island  was 
deserted,  remaining  practically  uninhabited  until  vacationers  chose  it  for  summer  homes 
and  fishermen  began  to  make  a  livelihood  from  its  surrounding  waters. 

Approximately  15  miles  northwest  of  McCargo's  Cove,  on  the  north  side  of  Isle 
Royale,  lies  SILVER  ISLET,  a  mere  speck  of  land,  yet  once  one  of  the  world's  richest 
little  silver  mines.  During  its  ten  years  of  operation,  the  mine  produced  $3,500,000 
worth  of  the  precious  ore.  In  November,  1884,  when  the  pumps  ceased  to  function 
from  lack  of  fuel,  the  mine  became  flooded,  and  silver  mining  on  the  island  came  to 
an  end. 


ARROWHEAD     TOUR     I  167 

At  Grand  Marais  is  the  junction  with  the  GUNFLINT  TRAIL  (cor. 
Wisconsin  St.  and  2nd  Ave.  W.). 

North  on  the  Gunflint  Trail,  an  improved  road,  narrow,  winding,  and  steep  in  places, 
swings  northwest  into  the  heart  of  the  SUPERIOR  NATIONAL  FOREST  (see  Superior 
"National  Forest},  a  rugged  region  of  many  lakes  and  towering,  over-archcing  pines. 
Moose,  bear,  deer,  wolves,  foxes,  porcupine,  and  other  animals  frequent  this  section. 
The  adventurous  canoeist  can  paddle  through  a  maze  of  lakes  and  streams  from  Lake 
Superior  to  the  western  border  of  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead.  Numerous  resorts  of  every 
type  offer  ample  accommodations  at  varying  rates.  The  Federal  Forest  Service  maintains 
campgrounds  with  tables,  benches,  fireplaces,  tent  and  trailer  sites,  and  water;  some  of 
the  camp  and  picnic  grounds  have  bathing  beaches. 

SOUTH  BRULE  RIVER  CAMPGROUND  (R),  14.4  m. 

NORTH  BRULE  RIVER  CAMPGROUND  (R),  18.8  m. 

SWAMPER  LAKE  CAMPGROUND  (L),  25.1  m. 

At  26.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  R.  on  this  road  to  EAST  BEARSKIN 
LAKE  CAMP  AND  PICNIC  GROUNDS,  3  m.  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe 
Trip  2). 

At  29.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  R.  on  this  road  to  FLOUR  LAKE 
CAMPGROUND,  2.5  m,  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe  Trip  2). 

At  30.4  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  R.  on  this  road  to  WEST  BEARSKIN 
LAKE  CAMP  AND  PICNIC  GROUNDS,  1.5  m.  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe 
Trip  2). 

At  31  m.  the  trail  skirts  POPLAR  LAKE  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe*. 
Trip  3}. 

There  are  two  IRON  LAKE  CAMPGROUNDS,  one  (L)  at  34.5  m.,  on  the  west 
end  of  the  lake,  and  the  other  (L),  at  38.3  m.,  on  the  east  end. 

At  39  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  R.  on  this  road  to  CRAB  LAKE  CAMP- 
GROUND, 1  m. 

LOON  LAKE  CAMPGROUND  (R),  is  at  41.3  m. 

At  46.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  gravel  road;  R.  on  this  road  is  the  village  of 
GUNFLINT  (unincorporated),  1.5  m.,  at  the  west  end  of  GUNFLINT  LAKE  (see 
Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe  Trip  /).  To  the  south  is  the  GUNFLINT  IRON 
RANGE,  where  Minnesota  iron  ore  was  first  discovered.  In  1850,  J.  G.  Norwood, 
assistant  geologist  with  the  D.  D.  Owens  Survey,  collected  samples  here  and  sent  them 
to  the  Smithsonian  Institution;  some  were  exhibited  at  the  International  Exposition  in 
Paris.  It  was  found  that  the  ore  contained  too  much  titanium  to  make  mining 
profitable. 

At  48.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  MAGNETIC  ROCK  TRAIL. 

R.  here  to  MAGNETIC  ROCK,  1.9  m.,  an  ancient  Indian  landmark  24  feet  high, 
whose  location  unknown  for  many  years  was  only  recently  rediscovered.  The  rock  is 
highly  magnetic  and  causes  compasses  in  the  vicinity  to  function  inaccurately. 

At  52.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  L.  to  ROUND  LAKE,  or  Cross  River, 
2  m.  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe  Trip  4). 

At  52.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  trail;  L.  to  the  site  of  the  PAULSON  MINE  (R), 
1  m.,  which  probably  was  opened  during  the  height  of  the  fever  of  exploration  for  iron 
ore.  Its  first  owner  was  a  man  named  Paulson.  Later  a  group  of  interested  Canadians 
built  a  railroad  from  Port  Arthur.  This  road,  the  Port  Arthur,  Duluth  and  Western, 
commonly  referred  to  as  the  P.  D.  &  W.,  always  was  in  financial  difficulties  and  was 
known  to  railroad  men  as  the  Poverty,  Distress,  and  Want.  Paulson  died  and  the  mine 
was  purchased  first  by  a  Minneapolis  banker,  then  by  a  Detroit  man,  but  finally,  because 
of  depression  years,  the  venture  was  abandoned.  Recently  members  of  a  Civilian  Con- 
servation Corps  found  an  old  warehouse  near  here,  containing  ten  tons  of  dynamite, 
which,  upon  orders  from  Government  officials,  they  destroyed. 

SEA  GULL  LAKE  CAMP  AND  PICNIC  GROUNDS  (L),  56.4  m.  (see  Superior 
National  Forest:  Canoe  Trips  4,  5). 

The  trail  ends  at  BIG  SAGANAGA  LAKE,  59.5  m.  (resorts,  swimming,  fishing, 
canoes;  varying  rates)  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe  Trips  i,  5).  Retrace  to 
US  61. 


l68  THE     MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

The  main  tour  continues  from  Grand  Marais. 

CHIPPEWA  CITY,  112.7  m.,  is  inhabited  by  Indians  and  a  few 
white  men  who  have  married  into  the  tribe.  Their  dwellings  are  concealed 
in  woods  adjoining  the  highway. 

KADUNCE  (Diarrhoea)  CREEK,  121.5  m.,  a  good  trout  stream,  owes 
its  name  to  mineral  salts  in  the  water. 

ARROWHEAD  RIVER,  126.7  m.,  once  called  the  Brule,  was  renamed 
to  avoid  confusion  with  the  Brule  River  that  flows  through  Wisconsin  into 
southwestern  Lake  Superior. 

HOVLAND,  131.2  m.,  is  at  the  junction  of  US  61  with  the  Arrowhead 
Trail. 

Left  on  the  Arrowhead  Trail  is  McFARLAND  LAKE,  16  m.,  the  starting  point  of 
the  International  Boundary  Route  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe  Trips  i,  2). 
Retrace  to  US  61. 

RESERVATION  RIVER,  137.7  m.,  flows  through  the  GRAND  POR- 
TAGE INDIAN  RESERVATION  (see  Cass  Lafa)9  established  in  1854 
and  now  reduced  to  a  small  tract  around  Grand  Portage.  Approximately 
400  Indians  live  in  the  area. 

From  this  point  US  61  swings  inland. 

MINERAL  CENTER,  144.5  m.  (715  alt.,  unincorporated),  is  the  most 
northerly  settlement  on  US  61. 

Right  from  Mineral  Center,  5.8  m.,  on  a  dirt  road  is  GRAND  PORTAGE  (700  alt., 
100  pop.),  oldest  white  settlement  in  Minnesota  (see  Grand  Portage),  though  its  popu- 
lation now  is  almost  entirely  Indian.  The  village  on  GRAND  PORTAGE  BAY  was 
built  at  one  end  of  the  nine-mile  "great  portage"  that  skirted  the  falls  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Pigeon  River,  and  connected  the  canoe  routes  of  the  border  waters  with  Lake 
Superior.  The  origin  of  this  trail  is  lost  in  obscurity;  when  Verendrye,  the  first  white 
man  to  leave  a  record  of  the  route,  visited  here  in  1731,  he  found  Indians  using  the 
trail.  Increasing  fur  trade  activities  made  the  site  of  Grand  Portage  a  logical  location 
for  a  trading  post.  At  the  time  of  the  Revolutionary  War,  it  was  the  thriving  center 
of  a  trade  area,  extending  2,000  miles  northwest  to  Great  Slave  and  Athabasca  Lakes 
and  800  miles  east  to  Montreal.  The  20  years  following  the  formal  organization 
of  the  Northwest  Company  in  1784  witnessed  the  greatest  fur-trading  period  in  the 
region's  history.  Today,  there  are  only  a  few  cabins  and  houses  and  a  general  store 
and  post  office,  although  many  old  landmarks,  including  a  stockade,  have  been  restored. 
An  old  cabin,  long  used  as  a  historical  museum,  was  replaced  in  1939  by  a  new 
museum  building.  At  the  northern  edge  of  the  village  stands  a  wooden  structure  on 
the  site  of  the  first  Catholic  Mission  School  in  the  State,  consecrated  in  1838  by  Father 
Pierz  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  3).  Indian  handicraft  products  are  for  sale.  There  is 
regular  launch  service  to  Isle  Royale  during  the  summer.  This  region  is  one  of  the 
most  rugged  in  Minnesota.  Its  rough  hills,  resulting  from  volcanic  action,  have  been 
modified  by  a  long  period  of  erosion  and  glacial  action.  Retrace  to  US  61. 

At  149.6  m.,  US  61  crosses  the  GRAND  PORTAGE  TRAIL  (marker 
R),  recently  cleared  for  hiking.  The  Webster- Ashburton  Treaty  of  1842, 
which  fixed  the  international  boundary,  provided  that  the  Grand  Portage 
be  free  and  open  for  use  by  citizens  of  both  countries.  A  tale  has  been 
told  of  a  New  Hampshire  man  who  homesteaded  along  the  trail.  It  seems 
he  had  read  literature  sent  to  him  by  the  Government  and  was  impressed 
by  the  Grand  Portage  provision.  Some  time  later,  another  settler  filed  a 
claim  on  adjoining  land.  Soon  petty  differences  arose  between  the  neigh- 


ARROWHEAD    TOUR     I  169 

hours,  so  the  newcomer  built  a  fence  between  the  two  homesteads.  Unfor- 
tunately for  him,  his  fence  crossed  the  Portage.  The  New  Englander  wrote 
to  the  Secretary  of  State  demanding  the  treaty  be  upheld;  the  letter  was 
referred  in  turn  to  the  Attorney  General,  the  U.  S.  District  Attorney  for 
Minnesota,  and  the  U.  S.  Marshal,  who  sent  a  deputy  to  remove  the 
obstruction. 

Left  along  the  trail  is  the  site  of  FORT  CHARLOTTE,  5  m.,  an  eighteenth-century 
fur-trading  post.  Only  scattered  mounds  mark  the  locations  of  the  buildings;  there  are 
a  few  remaining  timbers  of  the  dock  that  extended  into  the  Pigeon  River. 

The  INTERNATIONAL  BORDER,  151  m.,  is  formed  here  by  the 
PIGEON  RIVER,  crossed  by  a  steel  bridge.  Tradition  maintains  that 
large  flocks  of  the  now  extinct  passenger  pigeon  frequented  the  region. 
Customs  offices  and  hotels  are  at  each  end  of  the  bridge  (see  General  In- 
formation:  Border  Regulations).  Across  the  border,  the  INTERNA- 
TIONAL HIGHWAY  follows  the  Pigeon  River  for  several  miles  through 
valleys  walled  by  rugged  cliffs. 

MIDDLE  FALLS,  155  m.,  on  Pigeon  River,  are  a  beautiful  sight,  with 
their  rocky  background.  Public  picnic  grounds  adjoin  the  river. 

At  188  m.  the  tour  passes  MOUNT  McKAY  (1,587  alt.),  which  over- 
looks Fort  William  and  the  southwestern  extremity  of  THUNDER  BAY. 
LOCH  LOMOND,  on  the  promontory,  is  the  source  of  Fort  William's 
water  supply.  On  the  side  of  the  mountain  is  a  CROSS  that  is  illuminated 
at  night,  a  memorial  to  Indians  who  lost  their  lives  in  the  World  War. 

FORT  WILLIAM,  195  m.  (608  alt.,  26,000  pop.),  is  the  largest  city 
in  the  western  part  of  the  Province  of  Ontario.  It  is  an  important  shipping 
point  for  grain  from  the  Western  provinces  and  is  a  railroad  terminal 
serving  a  large  area.  Grain  elevators,  with  a  total  capacity  of  40,000,000 
bushels,  line  the  waterfront. 

Great  Lakes  Paper  Company,  Ltd.  {open  during  summer,  n  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m.); 
Abitibi  Power  and  Paper  Company,  Ltd.  (open  daily  except  Sun.  9  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m.); 
Fort  William  Municipal  Golf  Course  (9  holes}\  Fort  William  Country  Club,  Ltd. 
(open  to  public}. 

PORT  ARTHUR,  199  m.  (602  alt.,  20,506  pop.),  is  a  grain-shipping 
center;  its  16  elevators  have  a  total  capacity  of  52,500,000  bushels.  Port 
Arthur  and  Fort  William  are  the  world's  greatest  wheat  ports  and  the 
world's  largest  single-unit  grain  elevator,  with  a  capacity  of  7,000,000 
bushels,  is  located  at  Port  Arthur. 

Provincial  Paper,  Ltd.  (open  by  permission  from  office,  daily  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.); 
Thunder  Bay  Paper  Company,  Ltd.  (open  daily  /o:jo  a.  m.  to  2,  p.  m.);  Strathcona 
Golf  Course  (municipal;  9  holes};  Port  Arthur  Shipbuilding  Company;  Provincial  Gov- 
ernment Fish  Hatchery  (open  daily  8  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.,  Oct.  i  to  July  /o);  Port  Arthur 
Golf  and  Country  Club  (private  but  open  to  public)*,  Waverly  Lawn  Bowling  Green; 
Port  Arthur  Rowing  Club. 


170  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

*'GrX&t&*<0^&*<Gr*J0V'&V<0r*sOr^^ 

Arrowhead  Tour  2  \ 

(To  See  Open  Pit  Mines) 

Duluth — Eveleth — Virginia — Hibbing — Grand     Rapids — Floodwood — 
Proctor— Duluth;  206.9  m.,  US  53,  US  169,  US  2. 

US  53  is  paved  from  Duluth  to  Virginia;  US  169  is  paved  to  Grand  Rapids;  US  2 
is  bituminous-surfaced  to  Proctor,  paved  to  Duluth. 

This  tour,  running  north  from  its  junction  with  US  61  to  Virginia, 
passes  through  open-pit  mining  country,  swings  southwest  along  the  west- 
ern Mesabi  Range,  and  returns  to  Duluth  from  Grand  Rapids.  Good 
tourist  facilities  are  available  throughout;  there  are  many  summer  resorts 
where  fishing  is  excellent  (see  General  Information:  Fishing  and  Hunting}. 

DULUTH,  0  m.  (cor.  Superior  St.  and  Piedmont  Ave.)  (602  alt., 
101,065  pop.)  (see  Duluth). 

Leaving  Duluth,  US  53  swings  over  the  escarpment,  1.3  m.,  affording 
an  excellent  panoramic  view  of  city  and  harbor. 

The  DULUTH  HOMESTEADS  PROJECT  OF  THE  RESETTLE- 
MENT ADMINISTRATION  (L),  7  m.,  with  houses  built  by  the  Works 
Progress  Administration,  covers  1,220  acres  of  rolling,  tillable  land,  and  is 
the  only  such  undertaking  in  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead.  Eighty-four 
houses,  of  four  styles,  have  been  erected  on  lots  ranging  from  three  and 
one-half  to  ten  acres. 

At  11.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  an  improved  road. 

Right  on  this  road  is  PIKE  LAKE,  0.9  m.,  where  are  located  the  DULUTH  AUTO- 
MOBILE CLUBHOUSE,  unit  of  the  A.  A.  A.,  and  its  nine-hole  GOLF  COURSE 
(private).  Summer  homes  line  the  shores. 

The  CLOQUET  RIVER,  27  m.,  is  at  the  junction  with  State  33  (see 
Arrowhead  Tour  4). 

At  COTTON,  37  m.,  the  State  Forestry  Department  maintains  a 
RANGER  STATION  (L). 

On  the  shores  of  HALF  MOON  LAKE  (R),  52.6  m.t  is  the  DULUTH 
GIRL  SCOUTS'  CAMP,  Fanny  Bailey  Olcott,  given  in  1931  by  W.  J. 
Olcott,  Duluth  mining  man,  in  memory  of  his  wife.  The  camp  accommo- 
dates approximately  50  girls.  Willis  Hall,  recreational  headquarters,  is 
equipped  with  a  swimming  pool,  shower  rooms,  handicraft  rooms  and  a 
dark  room  for  photography  enthusiasts. 

The  EVELETH  PUMPING  STATION  is  on  ST.  MARY'S  LAKE, 
56.8  m. 

EVELETH,  57.3  m.  (1,574  alt->  6>887  P°P-)  (see  Eveleth):  Adams- 
Spruce  Open  Pit  Mine,  Leonidas  Underground  Mine,  Public  Library,  City 
Hall,  Recreational  Bldg. 


'^ 


CO 


I72  THE     MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

VIRGINIA,  62.5  m.  (1,438  alt.,  12,264  pop.)  (see  Virginia)'.  Missabe 
Mountain  Mine,  Memorial  Bldg.,  Olcott  Park,  Schools. 
The  tour  runs  west  on  US  169. 
At  65.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  county  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  junction  with  another  road,  025  tn.;  L.  here  to  the 
WACOOTAH  MINE,  0.45  m.,  an  active  open  pit. 

MOUNTAIN  IRON,  66.3  m.  (1,510  alt.,  1,492  pop.)  (see  Mountain 
Iron):  Mountain  Iron  Mine,  Granite  Quarry,  Schools,  Public  Library, 
Fiftieth  Anniversary  Monument. 

At  72.3  m,  is  the  junction  with  the  Sherwood  Road. 

Right  on  the  Sherwood  Road  is  the  KINNEY  MINE  (inactive),  1.5  m.,  an  open 
pit  from  which  approximately  6,000,000  gross  tons  of  ore  have  been  shipped. 
KINNEY,  2  m.  (1,500  alt.,  462  pop.)  (see  Kinney). 

BUHL,  74.2  m.  (1,500  alt.,  1,600  pop.)  (see  Buhl):  Martin  Hughes 
High  School,  Wabigon  Mine,  Fire  Hall,  Public  Library. 

FRASER,  77.6  m.  (155  pop.),  claims  it  is  the  world's  smallest  city.  It 
grew  around  the  Billings  Mine  (inactive),  was  organized  as  a  village  in 
1923,  and  in  1931,  to  prevent  annexation  by  Chisholm,  incorporated  as  a 
city.  It  has  a  city  hall  but  no  stores;  its  one  industry  is  mining. 

At  79.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  county  road. 

Right  on  this  road  is  located  the  SHENANGO  MINE,  0.6  m.,  an  open  pit  400 
feet  deep. 

CHISHOLM,  79.9  m.  (1,492  alt.,  7,487  pop.)  (see  Chisholm):  St. 
Vasselj  Church,  Schools,  Public  Library,  Community  Bldg.,  Godfrey  Mine. 

HIBBING,  87.8  m.  (1,537  alt.,  16,385  pop.)  (see  Hibbing):  Hull-Rust- 
Mahoning  Mine  (world's  largest  open-pit  iron-ore  mine),  Technical  and 
Vocational  High  School,  Memorial  Bldg.,  Park  School  ("The  Glass 
School"),  Bennett  Park,  Village  Hall. 

East  on  US  169  (Howard  St.)  from  the  cor.  of  ist  Ave.  to  the  junction  with  a  dirt 
road,  6.7  m.;  L.  on  this  dirt  road  to  the  junction  with  Co.  Rd.  464,  8.3  m.;  R.  on  Co. 
Rd.  464  Sturgeon  Lake  Road,  which  crosses  a  WATERSHED  where  a  figurative  drop 
of  rain  would  split  into  three  parts,  one  flowing  through  the  Mississippi  to  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  the  second  through  the  Great  Lakes  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  third 
through  Rainy  River  to  Hudson's  Bay. 

At  14.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  Co.  Rd.  5,  which  runs  through  sections  wooded 
with  virgin  pine  and  areas  dotted  with  lakes. 

At  21.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  Co.  Rd.  753. 

L.  on  Co.  Rd.  753  to  STURGEON  LAKE  (resorts,  cabins,  boats,  swimming},  22.8  m., 
one  of  the  best  fishing  lakes  in  the  region;  muskellunge,  pike,  pickerel,  bass,  crappies, 
and  perch  can  be  caught.  It  is  on  the  eastern  border  of  the  GEORGE  WASHINGTON 
STATE  FOREST,  a  4OO,ooo-acre  tract  that  was  established  by  the  State  Legislature 
in  1932. 

An  alternate  route  from  Hibbing  to  Floodwood  via  State  73  will  shorten 
the  tour  26.7  miles. 


ARROWHEAD     TOUR     2  173 

South  on  State  73  (ist  Ave.)  from  the  cor.  of  Howard  St.  The  highway  runs 
through  a  sparsely  settled  farming  area  and  follows  the  FLOODWOOD  RIVER,  a  trib- 
utary of  the  St.  Louis,  to  their  confluence  at  FLOODWOOD,  45.1  m. 

The  main  tour  continues  west  from  Ribbing  on  US  169. 

KEEWATIN,  96.8  m.  (1,505  alt.,  1,942  pop.)  (see  Keewatin):  Mesabi 
Chief,  St.  Paul,  Sargent,  Mississippi  No.  2,  and  Bennett  Mines;  Mesabi 
Chief  and  St.  Paul  Washing  Plants. 

At  97.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  county  road. 

Right  on  this  road  is  the  MESABI  CHIEF  MINE,  0.5  m.,  an  active  open  pit  that 
has  one  of  the  range's  most  complete  and  modern  plants  for  washing  sand  from  ore 
(see  Coleraine). 

NASHWAUK,  101.4  m.  (1,500  alt.,  2,228  pop.)  (see  Nashwau\): 
Hawkins  Mine,  Washing  and  Jigging  Plant,  La  Rue  Mine,  Washing  Plant, 
Village  Hall. 

A  MAGNETIC  SEPARATING  PLANT,  102.6  m.,  frees  ore  from 
foreign  material. 

CALUMET,  108.3  m.  (1,400  alt.,  946  pop.)  (see  Calumet):  Hill- Annex 
Mine,  Crushing  and  Screening  Plant,  Village  Hall. 

North  on  Gary  St.  from  the  cor.  of  5th  Ave.  (US  169)  to  the  junction  with  a  dirt 
road,  0.2  m.;  R.  on  this  road  to  the  junction  with  another  road,  0.5  /».;  L.  on  this 
second  road  is  the  large  HILL- ANNEX  MINE,  1.3  m. 

MARBLE,  110.3  m.  (1,382  alt.,  792  pop.)  (sec  Marble);  Hill-Trumbull 
Mine,  Washing  Plant. 

At  TACONITE,  113.1  m.  (375  pop.),  is  the  Holman-Cliffs  Mine 
(inactive). 

BOVEY,  115.3  m.  (1,354  a^->  I>355  P°P-)  (see  Bovey):  Canisteo  Mine, 
Danube  Mine. 

At  115.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  county  road. 

Left  on  this  road  is  the  TROUT  LAKE  WASHER  (open  daily  7  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.)y 
2.25  m.,  the  world's  largest  iron-ore  concentration  plant,  which  has  served  as  a  model 
for  other  plants  of  its  type. 

COLERAINE,  116  m.  (1,343  a^->  I>325  P°P-)  (see  Coleraine)'.  Canisteo 
Mine,  Schools. 

GRAND  RAPIDS,  123.2  m.  (1,290  alt.,  4,875  pop.)  (see  Grand 
Rapids):  Paper  Mill,  Village  Hall. 

North  on  State  38  (3rd  Ave.  W.)  from  its  junction  with  US  2  (4th  St.)  is  the 
southeastern  entrance  to  CHIPPEWA  NATIONAL  FOREST,  13.1  m.  (see  Chippewa 
National  Forest}.  All  parts  of  it  are  accessible  by  good  roads,  and  within  its  confines 
are  excellent  beaches,  good  fishing,  and  recreational  facilities  of  various  kinds.  Many 
historic  spots  in  the  area  are  connected  with  Indian  legends. 

BIG  FORK,  32.9  m.  (1,292  alt.,  382  pop.),  one  of  the  oldest  settlements  in  the 
timbered  valley  of  the  Big  Fork  River  (see  Big  Falls),  is  at  the  junction  of  State  38 
and  Scenic  Park  Drive.  It  is  a  logging  center  from  which  timber  in  large  quantities 
is  moved  by  truck  annually. 

Right  on  Scenic  Park  Drive  is  SCENIC  STATE  PARK,  7  m.,  which  was  set  aside 


174  THE     MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

in  1921  to  preserve  a  stand  of  virgin  pine,  and  now  embraces  2,121  acres.  Within  its 
borders  are  several  beautiful  lakes,  all  stocked  with  bass,  northern  and  wall-eyed  pike, 
crappies,  and  blue  gills;  a  well-equipped  tourist  camp;  and  cleared  trails. 

EFFIE,  40.2  m.,  trade  center  for  the  Effie-Busti  farming  region,  is  at  the  junction 
with  State  i;  L.  on  State  i. 

NORTHOME,  73.9  m.  (1,451  alt.,  343  pop.)  (see  Northome):  Consolidated  School. 

This  side  tour  continues  southeast  on  State  46,  cutting  diagonally  through  the 
Chippewa  National  Forest  and  crossing  the  CONTINENTAL  DIVIDE  (the  Hudson's 
Bay — Gulf  of  Mexico  watershed).  This  district  is  a  forest  of  Norway  pine,  where  the 
State  Conservation  Department  is  carrying  on  pine-thinning  experiments. 

THE  STATE  FISH  HATCHERY  (open),  96.4  m.,  annually  stocks  surrounding  lakes 
with  approximately  80,000,000  pike  fry. 

At  100.4  m.  is  the  junction  with  INGER  ROAD,  which  was  built  along  an  old 
four-mile  portage  between  Little  Cut  Foot  Sioux  Lake  and  Bowstring  River.  Following 
the  Continental  Divide,  it  was  used  by  the  Indians  for  generations. 

Left  on  Inger  Road  is  the  TURTLE  AND  SNAKE  INDIAN  MOUND  (R),  2.5  m., 
about  which  a  legend  has  been  woven.  For  years  the  area  was  coveted  by  both  Sioux 
and  Chippewa,  until  a  battle  in  the  1740'$  ended  in  victory  for  the  former.  Jubilant, 
they  built  the  turtle  part  of  the  mound  with  the  head  pointing  north  to  signify  the 
direction  of  the  enemy's  retreat.  The  Chippewa  returned  the  following  year  and  mas- 
sacred the  Sioux,  then  built  the  snake  around  the  turtle  with  the  head  pointed  south, 
as  a  warning  to  other  hostile  tribes  and  an  indication  of  the  future  path  of  Chippewa 
conquest. 

At  100.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road.  Left  on  this  road  is  LITTLE  CUT 
FOOT  SIOUX  LAKE,  0.25  m.  Like  Cut  Foot  Sioux,  this  lake  received  its  name  from 
the  legend.  The  morning  after  the  massacre,  squaws  from  the  victorious  tribe  found 
and  killed  an  unconscious  Sioux  warrior  whose  foot  was  almost  severed. 

At  107.9  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road.  Right  here  to  LAKE  WINNIBI- 
GOSHISH  (see  Bena),  8  m.,  an  excellent  pike-fishing  lake  with  an  area  of  more  than 
70  square  miles. 

At  119.1  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  2;  L.  on  US  2  to  DEER  RIVER,  120.4  m. 
(1,294  alt.,  987  pop.)  (see  Deer  River):  Deer  River  School  and  Dormitory,  Box  Factory, 
State  Forestry  Station.  At  134.3  m.  is  GRAND  RAPIDS. 

LA  PRAIRIE,  124.2  m.,  now  a  ghost  town,  was  one  of  the  first  settle- 
ments in  Itasca  County.  It  developed  with  the  lumber  industry  and,  when 
platted,  was  boomed  as  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Mississippi  River. 
However,  Grand  Rapids  became  the  steamboat  center  (see  Attain)  and 
absorbed  the  older  village.  The  buildings  have  been  removed,  but  the 
outlines  of  the  streets  are  still  visible. 

SWAN  RIVER,  142.4  m.  (1,294  a^->  unincorporated),  is  at  the  junction 
with  State  65. 

Left  on  State  65  is  GOODLAND,  5.7  m.,  a  town  in  which  all  services  are  operated 
on  a  cooperative  basis. 

FLOODWOOD,  159.8  m.  (1,257  alt.,  571  pop.)  (see  Floodwood); 
Cooperative  Creamery,  School. 

At  178.6  m.  the  highway  crosses  the  historic  ST.  LOUIS  RIVER,  which 
flows  into  Lake  Superior  and  furnishes  electric  power  for  Duluth  (see 
Duluth  Tour  4). 

SAGINAW,  186.4  m.t  is  at  the  junction  with  State  53  (see  Arrowhead 
Tour  4)- 

PROCTOR,  201.5  m.  (1,236  alt.,  2,468  pop.)  (see  Proctor):  Railroad 
Shops  and  Classification  Yards,  Village  Hall. 

DULUTH,  206.9  m.  (see  Duluth}. 


ARROWHEAD     TOUR     3  175 

1&V^**0^0r*^G^0r*^*&*<0*^ 

Arrowhead  Tour  3 

(To  see  Border  and  Farms) 


Duluth— International  Falls— Bemidji— Brainerd— Duluth;  493.8  m.,  US 
53,  US  71,  US  2,  US  371,  US  210,  US  61. 

US  53  is  paved  from  Duluth  to  Virginia,  hard-surfaced  to  International  Falls;  US  71 
is  graveled  to  Northome,  hard-surfaced  to  Bemidji;  US  2  is  hard-surfaced  to  Cass  Lake; 
US  371  is  hard-surfaced  to  Brainerd;  US  210  is  paved  to  its  junction  with  US  61;  US  61 
is  paved  to  Duluth. 

This  tour  runs  north  on  US  53  from  its  junction  with  US  61  to  the 
northern  and  western  parts  of  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead,  through  sections 
opened  up  by  the  great  logging  industry  of  early  days  and  by  farming  in 
the  fertile  bed  of  glacial  Lake  Agassiz  (see  Geology).  From  International 
Falls  on  the  international  border,  the  route  swings  southwest  to  Bemidji, 
thence  southeast  through  beautiful  lake  country  to  Brainerd.  Heading 
eastward,  it  passes  through  the  Cuyuna  Iron  Range  and  returns  to  Duluth. 
Tourist  facilities  are  good  between  Duluth  and  Virginia,  fair  between  Vir- 
ginia and  International  Falls,  but  limited  between  International  Falls  and 
Northome.  Accommodations  along  the  rest  of  the  route  are  good.  Most 
of  the  lakes  and  streams  are  stocked  with  a  wide  variety  of  fish  (see  General 
Information:  Fishing  and  Hunting). 

DULUTH,  0  m.  (cor.  Superior  St.  and  Piedmont  Ave.)  (602  alt., 
101,065  pop.)  (see  Duluth). 

This  tour  duplicates  Arrowhead  Tour  2  as  far  as  VIRGINIA,  62.5  m. 
(see  Arrowhead  Tour  2),  whence  it  continues  north  on  US  53. 

US  53  crosses  the  GREAT  LAURENTIAN  HIGHLAND  DIVIDE 
(marker  R),  67  m.,  between  the  Atlantic  and  Arctic  watersheds. 

COOK,  86.1  m.  (1,320  alt.,  470  pop.)  (see  Coo{):  St.  Louis  County 
School  114,  Flour  Mill,  Granite  Quarries,  Christmas  Tree  Processing  Plants. 

At  101.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  graded  road. 

Left  on  this  road,  which  winds  through  groves  of  maple  and  birch,  to  PELICAN 
LAKE,  9.5  m.,  especially  noted  for  its  good  duck  hunting. 

NETT  LAKE,  16  m.,  is  on  the  BOIS  FORT  INDIAN  RESERVATION,  a  unit  of 
the  Consolidated  Chippewa  Indian  Agency  (see  Cass  Lake').  The  heavy  timber  that 
once  covered  the  district  and  attracted  many  settlers  has  been  cut.  During  the  berry 
season,  the  Indians  from  miles  around  gather  in  swamps  near  the  village  to  pick  blue- 
berries to  sell.  The  wild  rice  that  grows  plentifully  in  Nett  Lake  also  is  harvested  by 
Indians.  One  man  paddles  a  canoe  while  a  second  threshes  the  rice  heads  into  it.  In 
camp,  the  rice  is  heated  in  large  kettles  over  open  fires  to  loosen  the  hulls.  Stalks  and 
foreign  substances  then  are  shaken  or  fanned  out,  and  the  rice  goes  into  a  wooden  vat, 
where  a  boy  wearing  moccasins  "jigs"  the  hulls  from  the  grain  with  a  peculiar  tramping 
step.  Once  again  the  rice  is  fanned,  then  weighed.  Wild  rice,  long  a  staple  in  the 
Indian  diet,  has  become  a  luxury  food  throughout  the  country. 


176  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

A  short  distance  from  shore  in  Nett  Lake  is  SPIRIT  ISLAND.  Seemingly  imbed- 
ded in  the  rocks  are  pictures  with  a  reddish-brown  film.  Indians  claim  that  when 
their  ancestors  first  came  to  the  lake  they  found  the  pictures  and  sometimes  heard 
sounds  like  children  playing.  Knowing  the  island  was  uninhabited,  they  dared  not 
venture  near  it  at  such  times,  attributing  both  pictures  and  sounds  to  spirits  (see  Arrow- 
head Tour  4>  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe  Trip  /). 

ORR,  103.5  m.  (1,305  alt.,  234  pop.)  (see  Orr):  St.  Louis  County 
School  142. 

CUSSON,  106.6  m.,  was  headquarters  for  the  Virginia  and  Rainy  Lake 
Lumber  Company  (see  Virginia;  Coo\;  Orr)  during  the  heyday  of  lum- 
bering in  northern  Minnesota.  Today,  Cusson  is  virtually  a  ghost  town 
with  few  inhabitants.  It  has  a  Civilian  Conservation  Corps  Camp.  The 
greatest  activity  occurs  in  the  spring  when  the  Indians  make  maple  sugar. 

INTERNATIONAL  FALLS,  158  m.  (1,124  alt.,  5,626  pop.)  (see 
International  Falls) :  Paper  Mills,  Curio  Collection.  (Before  crossing  border 
see  General  Information:  Border  Regulations.) 

East  on  3rd  St.  from  the  junction  of  US  53  (3rd  Ave.)  and  US  71  (3rd  St.)  to 
the  junction  with  2nd  Ave.,  0.1  m.;  L.  on  2nd  Ave.  are  CUSTOMS  OFFICES  on  Inter- 
national Bridge,  0.35  m. 

At  International  Falls  is  the  junction  with  State  n  (cor.  3rd  St.  and 
3rd  Ave.). 

East  on  State  u,  which  follows  the  south  shore  of  beautiful  RAINY  LAKE,  named 
Lac  la  Pluie  (lake  of  the  rain)  by  the  French.  White  men  first  visited  it  more  than 
200  years  ago;  Verendrye  navigated  its  waters  in  1731  on  his  search  for  a  passage  to 
the  Pacific.  The  lake,  about  50  miles  long  and  from  3  to  15  miles  wide,  has  an  area 
of  approximately  325  square  miles.  With  1,600  islands,  most  of  them  heavily  forested, 
its  beauty  is  not  surpassed  in  the  State. 

RANIER,  3.1  m.  (228  pop.),  at  the  point  where  the  Duluth,  Winnipeg  and  Pacific 
(Canadian  National)  crosses  the  international  border,  is  the  only  American  village  on 
Rainy  Lake,  and  one  of  the  important  northern  ports  of  entry.  Annually  $500,000  in 
duties  are  collected  here.  Customs  officials  inspect  and  supervise  boats  on  Rainy  Lake 
and  Rainy  River,  in  addition  to  their  usual  duties. 

West  on  Main  St.  is  the  STATE  FISH  HATCHERY,  0.1  m.,  largest  in  the  State; 
it  hatches  approximately  100,000,000  wall-eyed  pike  each  season.  Most  of  its  stock  is 
planted  in  Rainy  Lake,  but  it  also  supplies  eggs  to  the  French  River  Hatchery  (see 
Arrowhead  Tour  1}  and  to  stations  where  pike  are  raised  with  difficulty. 

BLACK  BAY,  12.7  m.  (R),  one  of  Rainy  Lake's  numerous  inlets,  is  claimed  to  be 
among  the  best  pike-fishing  grounds  in  North  America.  The  shore  is  heavily  wooded, 
as  are  many  near-by  islands. 

LITTLE  AMERICAN  ISLAND  (boat  service,  25$  per  person),  0.2  m,,  was  the 
scene  of  a  gold  rush  in  1893-94  (see  Copper  and  Gold  Exploration).  The  locations  of 
old  drifts  and  test  pits  are  still  discernible. 

RAINY  LAKE  CITY  (boat  service,  50$  per  person),  0.3  m.,  is  a  ghost  town  on 
the  mainland  across  the  bay.  At  the  time  of  the  gold  rush  this  was  a  booming  mining 
town;  remnants  of  its  old  buildings  and  stamp  mill  can  be  seen. 

BUSHY  HEAD  ISLAND  (boat  service,  $1.00  per  person),  2.5  m.,  has  a  cave  and 
old  mining  shaft  that  are  filled  with  water. 

The  tour  continues  southeast  from  International  Falls  on  US  71. 
LITTLEFORK,  176.5  m.  (1,153  alt.,  608  pop.)  (see  Uttleforft:  Potato 
Warehouse,  Ranger  Station. 


\, 


178  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

BIG  FALLS,  195.8  m.  (1,240  alt.,  509  pop.)  (see  Big  Falls):  Grade 
and  High  School. 

US  71  runs  southwest  through  MARGIE,  205.4  m.,  and  GEMMELL, 
216.9  m.;  from  here  to  Bemidji,  it  follows  the  CONTINENTAL  DIVIDE 
(Gulf  of  Mexico — Hudson's  Bay  watershed). 

MIZPAH,  223  m.  (173  pop.),  is  a  farming  village,  whose  Hebrew  name 
means  "watchtower." 

NORTHOME,  226.9  m.  (1,451  alt.,  343  pop.)  (see  Northome);  Co- 
operative Creamery,  Consolidated  School. 

West  on  State  i  through  a  farming  region  drained  by  many  small  streams  and 
rivers  that  offer  good  fishing. 

At  15  m.  State  i  crosses  State  72. 

At  30.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  newly  constructed  all-weather  road;  R.  on  this 
road  that  circles  the  eastern  shore  of  LOWER  RED  LAKE.  RED  LAKE,  the  largest 
freshwater  lake  lying  wholly  within  one  State,  consists  of  two  sections,  Upper  and  Lower, 
that  have  a  total  area  of  441  square  miles.  Most  of  the  shore  line  is  sand  and  gravel. 
The  greater  part  of  the  lake  is  within  the  boundaries  of  the  Red  Lake  Indian  Reserva- 
tion, under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Red  Lake  Indian  Agency  at  Red  Lake  on  the  south 
shore.  Among  early  missionaries  who  attempted  to  Christianize  the  Chippewa  was 
Father  Lawrence  Lautischar,  a  young  Austrian  priest  who  came  to  Minnesota  in  1857  at 
the  request  of  Father  Pierz.  Father  Lautischar  made  the  journey  up  the  Mississippi, 
then  was  brought  by  Indian  guides  to  this  wilderness  outpost.  Despite  the  severe  climate 
and  unfriendly  surroundingSj  he  immediately  began  to  minister  to  the  natives  while 
learning  their  language.  Little  more  than  a  year  after  his  arrival,  he  was  frozen  to 
death  on  the  lake  as  he  was  returning  from  a  visit  to  a  sick  Indian. 

The  village  of  PONEMAH,  52.8  m.,  is  inhabited  by  Indians  who  cling  to  their 
ancient  religion  and  customs.  Because  of  their  unusual  burial  ritual,  they  often  are 
referred  to  as  pagans.  Reluctant  to  use  Christian  graveyards,  they  have  buried  their 
dead  in  little  houses  near  the  road,  placing  food  on  a  shelf  for  the  spirits  of  the 
departed  relatives.  In  summer,  the  Indians  move  out  of  their  houses  and  live  in 
tepees.  These  huts  are  not  conical  in  shape,  but  are  constructed  with  rounded  tops, 
which  make  them  more  resistant  to  heavy  winds. 

Today  fishing  is  almost  the  sole  industry  of  both  Indians  and  white  men  in  the 
region. 

At  58.8  m.  is  an  INDIAN  VILLAGE  at  RED  LAKE  NARROWS,  a  channel  between 
Upper  and  Lower  Red  lakes.  One  of  the  finest  forests  of  virgin  pine  in  the  State  stands 
on  this  narrow  point  of  land. 

At  243.5  m.  on  US  71,  the  main  tour,  is  BLACKDUCK  (1,404  alt., 
753  P°P-)  (see  Blac{duc{):  Cooperative  Creamery,  Independent  School  60. 
At  245.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  Blackduck  Lake  Road. 

Right  here  to  BLACKDUCK  LAKE,  0.5  m.,  largest  in  the  vicinity,  on  whose 
shores  is  the  site  of  a  prehistoric  village  and  Indian  battlefield,  where  archeologists 
unearthed  the  well-known  Blackduck  pottery. 

BEMIDJI,  270.4  m.  (1,351  alt.,  9,427  pop.)  (see  Bemidji):  Fireplace  of 
States  Building,  Statues  of  Paul  Bunyan,  his  Blue  Ox  Babe,  and  Chief 
Bemidji,  State  Teachers  College,  Egg-packing  Plant,  Woodworking  Plants, 
Hydroelectric  Plant. 

The  tour  follows  US  2  southeast. 

CASS  LAKE,  290.3  m.  (1,323  alt.,  1,904  pop.)  (see  Cass  La{e):  Star 
Island,  Armory,  General  Chippewa  Hospital,  U.  S.  Government  Nursery. 


Photograph  by  H.  f.  Stetson,  Crosby,  Minnesota. 

(Above)  SHAFT  OF  AN  UNDERGROUND  MINE.  Two  of  the  three  Arrow- 
head iron  ranges,  the  Cuyuna  and  the  Vermillion,  are  worked  by  under- 
ground mines.  The  mine  pictured  is  on  the  Cuyuna  Range,  which, 
unlike  the  Vermillion,  also  has  several  open  pit  workings. 


(Below)     ORE  WASHING  PLANT.     This  huge  plant  at  Calumet  washes 
six  hundred  long  tons  of  iron  ore  per  hour. 


I 


Photograph  by  courtesy  of  the  Hibbing  Tourist  Bureau. 

(Above}  The  open  pit  method  of  mining  is  employed  primarily  on  the 
great  Mesabi  Iron  Range.  There  the  ore  lies  near  the  surface  and  the 
overburden  (mostly  glacial  drift)  is  easily  removed  with  steam  and 
electric  shovels.  The  Mesabi  ores  are,  generally  speaking,  softer  and 
more  friable  than  those  taken  from  the  underground  mines.  Because 
of  this,  and  the  ease  with  which  the  ore  is  extracted,  the  output  is 
tremendous  and  the  cost  comparatively  low. 


(Left)  ELECTRIC  SHOVEL  IN  USE.  The  huge  electric  shovel  used  in 
stripping  off  the  overburden  and  loading  the  ore  fills 'a  fifty-ton  gondola 
in  three  scoops. 


( Above}  EARLY  LOGGING  SCENE 
IN  THE  ARROWHEAD.  For  the 
short  haul,  oxen  were  nearly  al- 
ways used. 

(Right)  PAUL  BUNYAN  AND  His 
BLUE  Ox,  BABE. 

(Below)  AN  ARROWHEAD  PAPER 
MILL.  Plants  are  located  at  Clo- 
quet,  Grand  Rapids  and  Interna- 
tional Falls,  where  power  and 
great  quantities  of  pulp  wood  are 
available. 


Photograph    by    J.    H.    Kammerdiener,   Minneapolis 


ARROWHEAD     TOUR    3 


179 


An  alternate  route  from  Cass  Lake  to  Duluth  via  US  2  will  shorten  the 
tour  65.7  miles. 

From  Cass  Lake  US  2  runs  east  through  the  heart  of  the  CHIPPEWA  NATIONAL 
FOREST  (see  Chippewa  National  Forest;  Arrowhead  Tour  2)  and  passes  through 
SCHLEY,  11.7  m.,  named  for  Winfield  Scott  Schley,  who  as  rear  admiral  of  the  U.  S. 
Navy  during  the  Spanish-American  War  directed  the  naval  battle  off  Santiago,  Cuba. 

BENA,  19.1  m.  (1,311  alt.,  319  pop.)   (see  Bend):  Lake  Winnibigoshish. 

DEER  RIVER,  38.9  m,  (1,294  alt.,  987  pop.)  (see  Deer  River):  Deer  River  Grade 
and  High  School  and  Dormitory,  Box  Factory,  State  Forestry  Station. 

From  this  point,  this  alternate  tour  follows  the  route  of  Arrowhead  Tour  2  (see 
Arrowhead  Tour  2)  to  Duluth,  137.8  m. 

At  296.3  m.,  US  371  skirts  PIKE  BAY,  named  for  Zebulon  M.  Pike. 
On  this  southern  extension  of  CASS  LAKE,  the  Lake  States  Forest  Experi- 
ment Station  maintains  a  forest  for  the  intensive  study  of  tree  growth. 

LEECH  LAKE,  305.9  m.,  is  named  from  an  Indian  legend  that  tells 
of  a  huge  leech  seen  swimming  in  the  lake.  Third  largest  body  of  water 
in  Minnesota,  it  is  40  miles  wide  and  175  square  miles  in  area;  wall-eyed 
and  northern  pike,  bass,  and  blue  gills  are  plentiful. 

As  early  as  1785  the  Northwest  Company  had  a  trading  post  on  Otter- 
tail  Point,  and  later  the  American  Fur  Company  established  one  at  Pine 
Point.  Boutwell  (see  Duluth),  who  had  accompanied  Schoolcraft  to  Lake 
Itasca  in  1832  (see  Cass  Lafe),  returned  to  Leech  Lake  the  following  year, 
to  start  a  mission  among  the  Pillager  band  of  Chippewa,  and  remained 
here  for  four  years.  In  1836,  he  was  visited  by  the  eminent  cartographer, 
Joseph  N.  Nicollet,  who  had  been  commissioned  to  survey  the  headwaters 
of  the  Mississippi.  Another  missionary,  Reverend  James  Lloyd  Breck, 
arrived  at  Leech  Lake  in  1856,  hoping  to  Christianize  the  Pillagers,  but 
left  after  eight  months  of  disappointing  labor.  Later,  the  mission  was 
abandoned. 

Apparently  much  of  the  lake  bed  at  one  time  was  dry.  In  1897,  rem- 
nants of  an  oak  forest  on  the  lake  bottom  still  were  visible,  but  that  year 
the  ice  loosened  the  stumps.  Back  from  the  shore  is  cut-over  land,  where 
groves  of  poplar  and  hardwood  intersperse  the  remaining  Norway  and 
white  pine. 

The  last  battle  between  Indians  and  Federal  troops  took  place  on  Sugar 
Point  in  1898. 

WALKER,  311.3  m.  (1,336  alt.,  939  pop.)  (see  Walter):  Cass  County 
Courthouse,  Creamery,  Museum,  Tianna  Farms,  Village  Hall. 

At  AH-GWAH-CHING,  314.3  m.  (310  pop.),  its  name  Chippewa  for 
out-of-doors,  is  the  MINNESOTA  STATE  SANATORIUM  for  tubercular 
patients.  Its  35  buildings,  on  88 1  acres  of  land  overlooking  the  west  shore 
of  Leech  Lake,  serve  47  counties  that  have  no  sanatoriums. 

At  315.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  34. 

Left  on  State  34  to  the  junction  with  Onigum  Indian  Road,  3.3  m.;  L.  on  Onigum 
Indian  Road  is  the  "OLD  AGENCY,"  7.3  m.,  once  an  Indian  village  that  at  the  turn 
of  the  century  was  moved  to  Onigum.  Father  Pierz  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  1)  visited 
here  in  1853,  and  somewhere  in  the  near-by  woods  preached  his  first  sermon  to  the 
Pillager  Indians,  thus  establishing  the  ONIGUM  INDIAN  MISSION.  This  pioneer 


l8o  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

missionary,  born  in  Carniola,  Austria,  November  20,  1785,  had  come  to  America  in 
1838  at  the  persuasion  of  Father  Baraga  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  1),  and  was  called 
to  the  Minnesota  diocese  in  1852.  His  first  mission  was  at  Crow  Wing,  near  what 
now  is  Brainerd,  and  at  that  time  he  was  the  only  Roman  Catholic  missionary  to  the 
Indians  in  the  territory  that  became  Minnesota.  He  found  converting  and  teaching 
the  Pillager  Indians  around  Leech  Lake  a  well-nigh  impossible  task,  for  they  were  a 
troublesome  band  who  strongly  resented  the  white  man's  invasion  of  their  territory. 

The  LOG  CHURCH,  built  in  1892,  was  the  first  at  the  Onigum  Mission.  It  was 
abandoned  when  the  Mission  was  transferred  to  Onigum  at  the  time  the  village  was 
moved. 

ONIGUM,  13.5  m.,  on  Agency  Bay  of  Leech  Lake  is  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
Consolidated  Chippewa  Indian  Agency  (see  Cass 


Near  TEN  MILE  LAKE,  321.8  m.,  on  US  371,  stood  Lathrop,  a  rail- 
road terminal  that  in  1895  nac^  a  population  of  2,000.  When  the  Minne- 
sota and  International  Railroad  was  built  to  the  north,  the  town  was  moved 
to  the  railroad  line.  Today,  no  trace  of  the  old  village  remains.  The  lake 
was  so  named  because  of  its  distance  from  the  Indian  Agency  at  Leech 
Lake. 

The  tour  winds  southeast  through  a  lake  region  with  numerous 
resorts. 

PEQUOT  LAKES,  354.2  m.  (514  pop.),  is  a  dairying  village  with  a 
hundred  lakes  in  a  ten-mile  radius.  Within  15  miles  are  60  summer 
resorts  ranging  in  size  from  the  largest  in  the  State  to  those  with  only  a 
few  housekeeping  cabins.  Pequot  Lakes  has  a  cooperative  creamery,  a 
pickle  plant,  and  a  cooperative  shipping  association. 

At  372.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  210,  which  the  main  tour  fol- 
lows (L). 

BRAINERD,  374.9  m.  (1,213  alt->  12,071  pop.)  (see  Brainerd):  Rail- 
road Shops,  Paper  Mill,  Demanganization  Plant,  Crow  Wing  County 
Courthouse  and  Historical  Society  Museum,  City  Hall,  Library. 

South  on  US  371  (6th  St.  S.)  from  its  eastern  junction  in  Brainerd  with  US  210 
to  the  junction  with  State  18  (Oak  St.),  0.4  m.;  L.  on  State  18  to  junction  with  US 
169,  20.7  m.,  at  GARRISON  (211  pop.),  one  of  numerous  resort  centers  in  the  area. 

Left  on  US  169  along  the  northwest  shore  of  MILLE  LACS  LAKE,  among  the 
largest  and  most  beautiful  in  Minnesota.  Its  many  miles  of  shore  line  are  wooded  with 
birch,  maple,  and  pine,  and  more  than  a  thousand  Indian  mounds  dot  the  region. 
Father  Hennepin  and  his  companions  were  held  captive  at  a  Sioux  village  on  the  south- 
west shore  of  Mills  Lacs  just  prior  to  their  rescue  in  1680  by  Du  Lhut,  who  named 
the  place  Izatys,  soon  distorted  to  Kathio.  Indian  legends  recount  the  frequent  appear- 
ance here  of  spirits  of  warriors  killed  in  the  battle  of  Kathio  (see  Attain),  insisting 
that  white,  shapeless  forms  move  among  the  trees  with  low,  sighing  moans.  Duck 
hunting  is  popular,  and  the  lake  —  one  of  the  best  wall-eyed  pike-fishing  grounds  in  the 
Arrowhead  —  abounds  in  northern  pike,  bass,  crappies,  and  sunfish.  The  many  smaller 
streams  feeding  and  draining  it  afford  good  bass  fishing.  One  of  these,  Rum  River, 
flowing  southward  to  the  Mississippi,  once  was  an  important  logging  waterway. 

NICHOLS,  23.5  m.,  is  another  resort  settlement.  To  the  right,  between  the  high- 
way and  the  lake,  are  several  INDIAN  MOUNDS. 

The  highway  continues  north  past  FARM  ISLAND  LAKE  (L),  32.5  m.,  and  a  few 
smaller  lakes. 

AITKIN,  41.1  m.  (see  Ait\in). 

The  main  tour  continues  from  Brainerd  on  US  210. 


ARROWHEAD    TOUR    3  I 

IRONTON,  388.9  m.  (1,260  alt.,  827  pop.)  (see  Ironton):  Mines, 
Crushing  and  Screening  Plant,  Mahnomen  Crushing  Plant. 

CROSBY,  390.2  m.  (1,200  alt.,  2,954  P°P-)  (see  Crosby):  Sintering 
Plant,  Evergreen  Mine,  Armory,  Junior  College. 

North  on  State  6  (3rd  Ave.  S.W.)  from  its  junction  with  US  210  (Main  St.)  to  the 
EVERGREEN  MINE  (observation  tower),  0.5  m.  At  the  other  end  of  the  pit  is  the 
MINNESOTA  SINTERING  COMPANY  PLANT,  one  of  three  in  the  world,  operated 
by  the  Evergreen  Mines  Company.  Here  the  ore  is  beneficiated  by  washing,  screening, 
and  sintering  to  make  it  more  adaptable  to  the  mechanics  of  the  blast  furnace.  The 
sintering  machine  has  an  over-all  length  of  240  feet  and  a  capacity  of  1,400  long  tons 
in  24  hours. 

DEERWOOD,  393.8  m.  (1,291  alt.,  570  pop.),  on  the  east  end  o£ 
SERPENT  LAKE,  is  a  resort  center  with  30  lakes  in  the  immediate 
vicinity.  Deerwood  is  on  the  Cuyuna  Iron  Range,  but  there  are  no  mines 
near  the  town,  and  farming  and  dairying  are  its  main  industries.  A  sana- 
torium for  tubercular  patients  is  supported  by  Aitkin  and  Crow  Wing 
counties. 

This  village  was  the  home  of  Cuyler  Adams,  discoverer  of  the  Cuyuna 
Range  (see  Crosby). 

On  the  north  end  of  CEDAR  LAKE,  402  m.,  the  Northwest  Company 
had  a  fur-trading  post  in  1806. 

AITKIN,  404.7  m.  (1,230  alt.,  2,063  pop.)  (see  Ait{in):  Cooperative 
Creamery,  Aitkin  County  Courthouse,  Armory,  St.  James  Catholic  Church. 

The  highway  parallels  the  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER  (L)  to  HASSMAN, 
411.6  m.  and  McGREGOR,  426.7  m.  (1,254  alt.,  311  pop.)  (see  Mc- 
Gregor). 

Left  on  State  65  to  BIG  SANDY  LAKE,  13  m.  Fur  traders  paddled  across  the  lake 
on  their  journeys  through  the  region  (see  McGregor;  Floodwood).  In  1794,  the  North- 
west Company  built  a  post  on  the  western  shore  of  the  lake  at  what  now1  is  Brown's 
Point.  This  post  was  one  of  the  most  important  in  the  Northwest  until  the  American 
Fur  Company  bought  out  the  British  interests  in  1816.  Some  time  between  1820  and 
1834,  the  post  was  moved  to  the  confluence  of  the  Mississippi  and  Sandy  rivers,  where 
the  village  of  Libby  stands.  The  first  Indian  mission  in  Minnesota  was  established  in 
1833  by  Reverend  Edmund  F.  Ely  at  Big  Sandy  Lake  where,  a  year  before,  a  fellow 
missionary,  Frederick  Ayer,  had  conducted  the  first  school  in  the  State. 

WRIGHT,  442  m.  (201  pop.),  is  a  small  farming  community  on  the 
Northern  Pacific.  After  leaving  Wright,  US  210  crosses  the  Cromwell 
terminal  moraine  that  extends  for  several  miles. 

CROMWELL,  449.1  m.  (214  pop.),  is  a  typical  farming  village  with 
a  well-equipped  consolidated  school  and  a  cooperative  creamery. 

SAWYER,  461.9  m.,  is  on  the  edge  of  the  FOND  DU  LAC  INDIAN 
RESERVATION  (see  Cass  Lafa  Cloquet). 

At  465.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  33. 

Left  on  State  33  is  the  entrance  to  the  STATE  FORESTRY  EXPERIMENT  STA- 
TION, 1  m,,  under  the  direction  of  the  University  of  Minnesota.  Its  3,000  acres  com- 
prise one  of  the  most  intensively  developed  forest  areas  in  the  country.  Plant  disease 
and  insect  control  are  studied,  and  demonstration  projects,  experiments,  and  formal 


l82  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

instruction  are  carried  on.    All  forestry  students  from  the  State  University  spend  part  of 
their  training  period  here,  as  do  students  in  game  management  and  related  courses. 

At  468.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  61,  where  US  210  ends. 

Right  on  US  61,  the  road  in  places  is  cut  through  ridges  of  taconite,  some  of  the 
oldest  rock  on  the  North  American  continent.  The  highway  crosses  OTTER  CREEK, 
at  0.9  m.,  and  recrosses,  at  25  m.,  all  that  remains  of  one  of  the  torrents  through 
which  glacial  Lake  Duluth  drained  into  the  Mississippi. 

ATKINSON,  5  m.,  and  MAHTOWA,  9.1  m.,  are  farming  communities  producing 
high-grade  potatoes. 

BARNUM,  15.3  m.  (1,122  alt.,  327  pop.)  (see  Barnum):  Creamery,  Maplewood 
Farm,  Big  Hanging  Horn  Lake. 

MOOSE  LAKE,  20  m.  (1,085  alt.,  1,432  pop.)  (see  Moose  Laf^e):  Creamery,  Tile 
and  Pottery  Company,  State  Hospital,  Granite  Shaft  (monument). 

The  main  tour  continues  on  US  6 1  from  Junction  with  US  210. 

A  wooden  SIGN,  470.3  m.,  marks  the  point  at  which  construction  of 
the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  began  (see  Carlton). 

CARLTON,  471.3  m.  (1,084  alt->  7°°  P°P-)  (see  Carlton)'.  Carlton 
County  Courthouse,  Village  Hall,  Jay  Cooke  State  Park  (see  Duluth 
Tour  4)> 

SCANLON,  474.1  m.  (460  pop.),  developed  as  a  lumbering  town,  but 
with  the  depletion  of  the  forests  and  the  growth  of  Cloquet,  the  village 
has  declined  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  4)> 

The  highway  crosses  the  ST.  LOUIS  RIVER  at  475.2  m.  (see  Duluth 
Tour  4)> 

ESKO,  477.2  m.,  is  a  Finnish  dairying  community,  which  has  a  co- 
operative creamery  with  a  branch  in  Duluth.  As  is  characteristic  of  the 
Finns,  most  families  in  this  district  have  a  sauna  (bathhouse),  resembling 
a  small  cabin  (see  Embarrass).  Suspicious  farmers  once  accused  the  Finns 
of  worshipping  pagan  deities  and  claimed  that  whole  families,  wrapped  in 
white  sheets,  went  to  these  small  outbuildings  to  call  upon  their  gods. 
Investigation  proved  the  motive  was  not  godliness,  but  cleanliness. 

At  482.7  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  is  NOPEMING,  0.3  m.,  the  St.  Louis  County  Tuberculosis  Sana- 
torium, opened  in  1912,  which  has  accommodations  for  230  patients.  Its  name  is 
Chippewa  for  "out-in-the-woods."  The  270  acres  of  improved  woodland  border  the 
St.  Louis  River  Valley,  and  the  buildings  are  on  a  hill  that  affords  a  beautiful  view. 

REST  POINT,  488.4  m.,  is  a  fine  vantage  point  from  which  to  see  the 
St.  Louis  River  Valley  and  the  city  of  Duluth.  A  bronze  tablet  set  in  the 
retaining  wall  describes  the  area  and  briefly  relates  its  history. 

DULUTH,  493.8  m.  (see  Duluth). 


ARROWHEAD    TOUR     4  183 

1<0*0KJ0>K0V<0r*s0rx&*4?^^ 

Arrowhead  Tour  4 

(To  See  Underground  Mines) 

Duluth— Illgen  City— Ely— Virginia— Cloquet— Duluth;  247.2  m.,  US  61, 
State  i,  State  169,  US  53,  State  33,  State  45. 

US  6 1  is  paved  from  Duluth  to  Two  Harbors,  hard-surfaced  to  Illgen  City;  State  i 
is  hard-surfaced  to  Ely,  paved  to  Tower;  State  169  is  paved  to  Virginia;  US  53  is  paved 
to  its  junction  with  State  33;  State  33  is  graveled  to  Cloquet;  State  45  is  paved  to  its 
junction  with  US  61;  US  61  is  paved  to  Duluth. 

This  tour  runs  northeast  on  US  61  from  its  junction  with  US  53,  swings 
northwest  to  the  underground  mining  region  of  the  Vermilion  and  eastern 
Mesabi  iron  ranges,  then  returns  through  cut-over  forest  areas.  Good 
tourist  facilities  are  available,  with  hotels  in  larger  towns  and  numerous 
resorts  and  campsites  throughout.  Wild  game  is  abundant,  and  lakes  and 
streams  are  well  stocked  (see  General  Information:  Fishing  and  Hunting). 

DULUTH,  0  m.  (cor.  Superior  St.  and  Piedmont  Ave.)  (602  alt., 
101,065  pop.)  (see  Duluth). 

This  tour  is  identical  with  Arrowhead  Tour  i  as  far  as  ILLGEN  CITY, 
60.7  m.  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  1),  whence  it  follows  State  i  (Ely-Finland 
Trail). 

ILLGEN  FALLS  (L),  62.8  m.,  are  typical  of  the  beautiful  falls  along 
the  north  shore  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  1).  The  BAPTISM  RIVER  to- 
gether with  its  upper  tributaries  is  one  of  the  most  fished  of  the  northern 
trout  streams. 

At  66  m.  the  trail  passes  through  the  little  settlement  of  FINLAND, 
where  the  State  Forest  Service  has  DISTRICT  HEADQUARTERS. 
Several  obscure  foot  trails  lead  (R)  from  Finland  toward  the  upper 
reaches  of  the  Baptism  River,  some  following  old  logging  roads  over  de- 
caying bridges  that  in  many  places  are  almost  hidden  by  vegetation.  The 
region,  although  cut-over,  is  uncultivated  and  partially  wooded.  The 
swamps  are  filled  with  black  spruce,  tamarack,  cranberries,  and  bog 
flowers.  In  such  setting  grows  the  rare  and  exquisite  moccasin  flower — 
the  Minnesota  State  flower — whose  name  Cypripedium  means  "slipper  of 
Venus." 

At  68.6  m.t  the  highway  enters  the  famous  SUPERIOR  NATIONAL 
FOREST. 

A  STATE  GAME  AND  FISH  STATION  (R),  76.6  m.,  stands  near 
the  overhead  crossing  of  an  old  logging  railroad. 

ISABELLA,  83.1  m.,  a  small  village,  gives  the  highway  one  of  its 
names,  Isabella  Trail. 

The  KAWISHIWI  RIVER,  112.2  m.,  is  a  principal  waterway  for 


104  THE     MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD     COUNTRY 

several  canoe  trips  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe  Trips  6,  7,  8). 
The  short  portages  (averaging  less  than  one-quarter  mile)  make  this  one 
of  the  finest  canoe  countries  in  the  United  States. 

The  SOUTH  KAWISHIWI  CAMP  AND  PICNIC  GROUNDS  (R) 
(free  picnic,  tent  and  trailer  sites,  water)  are  supervised  by  the  Federal 
Forest  Service,  at  whose  DISTRICT  HEADQUARTERS  (L)  visitors  are 
welcome. 

Pike  fishing  is  excellent  at  BIRCH  LAKE  DAM  CAMP  AND  PICNIC 
GROUNDS  (R)  (free  picnic  sites;  no  water),  114.6  m.,  maintained  by 
the  Minnesota  Power  and  Light  Company.  Most  of  these  northern  lakes 
are  noted  for  their  lake  trout,  pike,  and  pickerel.  Bass  are  numerous  in 
some  of  the  lakes;  brook  and  rainbow  trout  prefer  the  spring-fed  creeks. 

ELY,  124.8  m.  (1,417  alt.,  5,970  pop.)  (see  Ely):  City  Hall,  Memorial 
High  School,  Community  Center,  South  Slavonic  Catholic  Union,  Pioneer 
(Shafts  A  and  B),  Sibley,  and  Zenith  mines. 


TO  SEE  MINES 

(Visitors  by  permission) 

North  on  Central  Ave.  from  the  junction  of  State  I  (Sheridan  St.)  and  Co.  Rd.  21 
(Central  Ave.)  to  the  junction  with  the  Chandler  Location  Rd.,  0.1  m.,  that  branches 
(R)  over  the  railroad  tracks.  At  0.2  m.  on  the  Chandler  Location  Rd.  is  the  junction 
with  a  narrow  dirt  road;  R.  on  the  dirt  road  to  the  PIONEER  MINE  (SHAFT  B), 
0.4  m.  The  Pioneer,  a  fully  electrified  mine  with  two  shafts,  is  one  of  the  largest  under- 
ground mines  in  the  State.  It  has  shipped  more  than  a  million  gross  tons  in  one  season. 
At  0.3  m.  on  the  Chandler  Location  Rd.  is  the  junction  with  a  gravel  road;  R.  on  the 
gravel  road  to  the  PIONEER  MINE  (SHAFT  A),  0.8  m.,  and  to  the  SIBLEY,  1.7  tn., 
which  was  opened  in  1899  and  was  the  last  one  on  the  Vermilion  Range  to  operate  by 
steam  power.  For  ZENITH  MINE  (see  below}. 

First  alternate  route  from  Ely  to  Virginia  (Ely  to  Buyc\,  Coo\,  and  Virginia]  via 
"Echo  "Trail,  lengthening  the  tour  60. i  miles. 

East  on  State  i   (Sheridan  St.)  from  its  junction  with  Co.  Rd.  21   (Central  Ave.). 

At  1.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  Co.  Rd.  35;  first  alternate  route  continues  L.  on  Co. 
Rd.  35.  Right  on  Co.  Rd.  35,  at  2  m.,  is  the  junction  with  a  hard-surfaced  road  that 
leads  to  WHITE  IRON  LAKE,  or  Silver  Rapids  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe 
Trip  8).  WINTON,  3.5  m.  (224  pop.),  on  FALL  LAKE  (see  Superior  National  Forest: 
Canoe  Trip  9),  is  at  the  junction  with  the  Fernberg  Road.  Right  on  the  Fernberg  Road 
to  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road  at  15.3  m.  Left  on  the  dirt  road  to  MOOSE  LAKE, 
2  m.  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe  Trip  13).  On  LAKE  ONE,  19.5  m.,  is* 
FERNBERG  LANDING  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe  Trip  7).  Retrace  to 
junction  with  Co.  Rd.  88. 

Left  on  Co.  Rd.  35,  first  alternate  route,  to  a  junction  with  a  dirt  road  at  1.6  m. 
Left  on  this  dirt  road  to  the  ZENITH  MINE,  02  m.,  opened  in  1892  and  now  com- 
pletely electrified. 

At  2.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  Co.  Rd.  88. 

Left  on  Co.  Rd.  88  to  the  junction  with  Co.  Rd.  603,  4.3  m.;  R.  on  Co.  Rd.  603, 
the  ECHO  TRAIL,  also  called  the  Ely-Buyck  Trail,  that  runs  northeast,  then  swerves 
north,  and  continues  northwest  through  the  wilderness  of  the  Superior  National  Forest. 
Much  of  this  12-foot  road  is  built  on  solid  rock,  and  the  remainder  is  graveled;  it  is 
seldom  impassable.  Canoe  routes  in  the  area  include  that  used  by  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  and  the  famed  Dawson  Route  (see  International  Falls') — both  well  known  to 
fur  traders — and  others  used  for  centuries  by  Indians.  At  the  time  of  the  first  Riel 
Rebellion  (in  1870),  English  troops  moved  through  this  territory  from  Port  Arthur  to 
Fort  Garry  (Winnipeg)  in  a  hundred  big  canoes.  The  Federal  Forest  Service  maintains 


'  «- 
t 

1 

r 

-)c 

f  TOUR? 

NO-4- 

\  2  4-7.2  Mi  las 

UMDE&- 
GjROUMD 
JMZNES 

DULUTH 
ILLGE.N  CITY 
ELY 
VIRGINIA 
CLOQUET 
N^  DULUTH  / 

l86  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

campgrounds  with  tables,  benches,  fireplaces,  tent  and  trailer  sites,  and  water;  also  camp 
and  picnic  grounds  that  have  bathing  beaches. 

NORTH  ARM  BURNTSIDE  LAKE  CAMP  AND  PICNIC  GROUNDS  (L),  9.3  m. 
(see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe  Trip  //). 

FENSKE  LAKE  CAMP  AND  PICNIC  GROUNDS  (R),  12.8  m.  (see  Superior 
National  Forest:  Canoe  Trip  /o). 

NELS  LAKE  CAMPGROUND  (R),  15.3  m. 

SOUTH  HEGMAN  CAMP  AND  PICNIC  GROUNDS  (R),  17.3  m.  INDIAN  ROCK 
PAINTINGS  were  discovered  recently  on  cliffs  at  the  northeastern  end  of  Hegman  Lake. 
These  ancient  drawings  include  the  figure  of  a  man  with  five  moons  over  his  right 
shoulder  and,  below  him,  figures  of  moose  and  other  game.  A  connecting  line  beneath 
the  figures  suggests  this  is  a  picture-story  drawing.  Several  theories  have  been  advanced 
concerning  the  origin  and  significance  of  these  pictographs,  but  their  interpretation  still 
is  questionable.  They  furnish  interesting  examples  of  the  picture  language  of  northern 
Minnesota  tribes  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe  Trip  i;  Arrowhead  Tour  3}. 

SPRING  CREEK  CAMPGROUND  (L),  19.3  m. 

SECOND  LAKE  CAMPGROUND  (R),  20.3  m.  The  trail  skirts  SECOND  LAKE 
and  winds  upward  around  a  cliff  overhanging  the  lake,  with  a  sharp,  blind  curve  at 
the  top. 

BIG  LAKE  CAMP  AND  PICNIC  GROUNDS  (L),  24.3  m.  (see  Superior  National 
Forest:  Canoe  Trip  //). 

In  some  places  the  highway  cuts  through  stands  of  virgin  timber,  where  occasionally 
in  early  morning  or  late  afternoon  deer  may  be  seen  close  to  the  road.  The  timid 
animals  stand,  with  ears  pricked  for  the  slightest  sound,  and  dart  off  into  the  forest 
when  a  car  approaches. 

PORTAGE  RIVER  CAMPGROUND  (L),  26.8  m. 

MOOSE  RIVER  CAMPGROUND  (R),  29.5  m.  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe 
Trip  12). 

MEANDER  LAKE  CAMP  AND  PICNIC  GROUNDS  (R),  32.5  m. 

The  trail,  winding  through  fine  stands  of  white,  Norway,  and  jack  pine,  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  forest  roads  in  Minnesota.  Game  is  abundant  throughout  the  area, 
particularly  deer,  bear,  and  smaller  animals;  moose  often  are  seen. 

SIOUX  RIVER  CAMPGROUND  (R  and  L),  36.1  m.  (see  Superior  National  Forest: 
Canoe  Trip  14). 

LAKE  JEANNETTE  CAMP  AND  PICNIC  GROUNDS  (R),  are  at  41  m. 

HUNTING  SHACK  CAMPGROUND  (L),  45.1  m.,  is  the  last  campsite  on  the  trail. 

At  53.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  Co.  Rd.  24. 

1.  Right  to  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road,  0.5  m.    Right  on  this  dirt  road  to  ECHO 
LAKE,  6.3  m.  (resort,  cabins,  boats,  swimming).     CRANE  LAKE,  8.5  m.,  is  the  west 
end  of  the  International  Boundary  Route   (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe  Trips 

i,  /5). 

2.  Left  on  Co.  Rd.  24  to  BUYCK,  55.8  m.,  a  small  settlement  that  once  was  a  half- 
way point  for  prospectors  en  route  to  Rainy  Lake  during  the  gold  rush  (see  Arrowhead 
Tour  3). 

At  57.8  m.,  the  road  crosses  VERMILION  RIVER  (see  Superior  National  Forest: 
Canoe  Trip  75),  which  originates  in  Lake  Vermilion  to  the  south. 

At  58.1  m.  is  the  junction  with  Co.  Rd.  23,  which  leads  (R)  to  ORR  (see  Orr; 
Arrowhead  Tour  8). 

At  71.3  m.  on  Co.  Rd.  24  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  VERMILION  DAM,  0.2  m.  (see  Superior  National  Forest: 
Canoe  Trip  75),  on  Vermilion  River.  COOK  is  at  94.2  m.  (1,320  alt.,  470  pop.)  (see 
Cook  Arrowhead  Tour  3);  and  VIRGINIA  at  110.7  m. 

Second  alternate  route  from  Ely  to  Virginia  (Ely  to  Embarrass,  Aurora,  BiwabiJ{, 
Virginia  via  County  Road  21  and  State  35,  lengthening  the  tour  6  miles). 

South  on  Co.  Rd.  21  (Central  Ave.)  from  the  junction  with  State  I  (Sheridan  St.). 
(One  of  the  most  successful  early  forest  plantations  in  the  lake  states  is  located  15  miles 
south  of  Ely  on  the  southwest  side  of  Birch  Lake.  It  is  known  as  the  Birch  Lake 
Plantation  and  can  be  easily  reached  from  the  Ely-Babbitt  Road.) 

EMBARRASS  is  at  29  m.  (1,427  alt.,  unincorporated)  (see  Embarrass).  At  30.6  m. 
is  the  junction  with  State  35;  L.  on  State  35  to  AURORA,  40.6  m.  (1,478  alt.,  1,528 


ARROWHEAD    TOUR     4  187 

pop.)  (fee  Aurora);  and  BIWABIK,  45.8  m.  (1,448  alt.,  1,304  pop.)  (see  BiwabiJ(): 
Biwabik  Mine. 

South  on  Co.  Rd.  4  (Shaw  Ave.)  from  its  junction  with  State  35  (Main  St.)  to  the 
junction  with  the  Esquagama  Lake  Road,  4.7  m.,  R.  to  the  log  4-H  CLUBHOUSE  on 
ESQUAGAMA  LAKE,  5.1  m.,  a  prize  awarded  to  the  St.  Louis  County  organization  for 
nationally  outstanding  club  work. 

GILBERT,  53.1  m.  (1,593  alt.,  2,504  pop.)  (see  Gilbert)'.  Village  Hall,  Library, 
Schools. 

VIRGINIA,  56.6  m. 

The  main  tour  continues  west  from  ELY  on  State  i.  At  the  junction 
with  Co.  Rd.  88,  127.9  m.,  is  the  site  of  the  old  QUARRY  AND  ROCK- 
CRUSHING  PLANT  of  the  Emeralite  Surfacing  Company  (R). 

Right  on  Co.  Rd.  88  is  BURNTSIDE  LAKE  (resorts,  fishing,  swimming,  canoeing, 
launches,  garage  facilities'),  2.8  m.,  one  of  the  most  popular  lakes  in  the  region.  It  is 
seven  miles  long  and  seven  miles  wide  with  numerous  islands  and  an  irregular,  wooded 
shore  line  (see  Superior  National  Forest:  Canoe  Trips  10,  n,  12,  14). 

At  143.3  m.  JASPER  PEAK  (1,650  alt.),  composed  largely  of  red 
jasper,  is  visible  (L).  Atop  it  is  a  FOREST  SERVICE  LOOKOUT 
TOWER;  a  footpath  leads  to  the  tower,  from  which  the  view  of  the  sur- 
rounding country  is  excellent. 

At  SOUDAN  (1,500  alt.)  is  a  MONUMENT  (R),  144.3  m.,  that  com- 
memorates the  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the  first  shipment  of  iron  ore  from 
the  SOUDAN  MINE  (see  Tower)  and  from  Minnesota  (see  Two 
Harbors). 

TOWER,  146.5  m.  (1,367  alt.,  820  pop.)  (see  Tower):  Lake  Vermilion, 
Lake  Vermilion  Indian  Reservation,  McKinley  Monument. 

From  PEYLA,  151  m.  (1,435  a^-)>  a  small  settlement  near  the  head  of 
PIKE  BAY  on  LAKE  VERMILION,  State  169  runs  southwest  through  a 
farming  region  into  the  Mesabi  Iron  Range. 

At  169.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  53;  L.  on  US  53. 

VIRGINIA,  175.4  m.  (1,438  alt.,  12,264  pop.)  (see  Virginia):  Missabe 
Mountain  Mine,  Memorial  Bldg.,  Olcott  Park,  Schools. 

The  tour  continues  south  on  US  53  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  2)  to  the 
CLOQUET  RIVER,  210.9  m.,  and  the  junction  with  State  33;  R.  on 
State  33,  which  runs  through  the  farming  district  of  the  Cloquet  River 
Valley. 

SAGINAW,  219.4  m.,  at  the  junction  with  US  2  (see  Arrowhead 
Tour  2),  was  first  settled  by  timber  workers  from  Saginaw,  Michigan. 
The  story  has  been  told  that  during  the  boisterous  lumbering  days  of  the 
village,  the  reversed  spelling  of  its  name  was  chosen  to  designate  a  brand 
of  whiskey. 

The  FOND  DU  LAC  INDIAN  HOSPITAL,  226.5  m.,  a  Federal 
institution,  is  a  two-story  building  on  an  8o-acre  tract.  Between  500  and 
600  Indians  are  treated  each  year.  Originally  it  served  only  the  Fond  du 
Lac  Reservation,  on  which  it  is  located,  but  when  seven  Minnesota 
Chippewa  reservations  were  placed  under  control  of  the  Consolidated 
Chippewa  Indian  Agency  (see  Cass  La\e),  the  hospital  was  opened  to 


i88 


THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 


surgical  cases  from  all  Agency  territory.  Hospitalization  is  free  to  all 
Indians  who  are  members  of  the  Agency,  except  tubercular  patients. 

CLOQUET,  227.2  m.  (1,189  alt.,  7,304  pop.)  (see  Cloquet):  Wood 
Conversion  Plant,  Paper  Mills,  Saw  and  Planing  Mills. 

Left  on  State  45  to  SCANLON,  230.5  m.  (460  pop.),  at  the  junction 
with  US  61,  which  the  tour  follows  (see  Arrowhead  Tour  3)  to  DULUTH, 
247.2  m.  (see  Duluth). 


PART  V 

Appendices 


Industrial  and  Commercial  Data 


INDUSTRIAL  STATISTICS 
(*939  figures) 

General:                                                 (Retail)*  (Wholesale)* 

Stores     5,307  523 

Proprietors    4,935  355 

Employees     12,007  3»8n 

Sales     $116,287,000  $118,569,000 

Payroll     $  11,685,000  $    6,140,000 

Manufacturing:  ** 

Establishments   393 

Wage  earners    9,382 

Wages $    9>436>342 

Cost  of  materials,  fuel,  power $  33,925,754 

Value  added  by  manufacture  (including  wages 

and  overhead)    $  27,991,655 

Value  of  products  $  61,917,409 

*  Figures  represent  all  Carlton,  Cass,  Cook,  Itasca,  Lake,  St.  Louis  Counties;  %o 
Aitkin,  Koochiching;  %  Crow  Wing. 

**  No  figures  are  available  on  Cook  County;  Koochiching  is  included  only  in  number 
of  establishments  and  wage  earners,  no  data  on  wages,  value  of  products,  etc.,  being 
available. 


191 


192  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 


AGRICULTURAL  STATISTICS 
(United  States  Census  of  Agriculture, 

Arrowhead  acreage 

Total  acreage  in  farms   2,088,168 

Percentage  in  farms    15.6 

Average  acreage  of  farms 93-i8 

Average  value  of  forms   $2,348 

Average  value  per  acre  $25.20 

Number  of  farms    22,411 

Value  of  farms  (land  and  buildings) $52,622,802 

Livestock  (Apr.  i,  1940): 

Horses  and  colts    26,329 

Cattle  and  calves   158,774 

Sheep  and  lambs   56,631 

Swine    T5>447 

Chickens  over  4  months  old  502,481 

Turkeys  over  4  months  old I2>539 

Livestock  products  (1939): 

Milk  produced  (gallons)    51,871,918 

Eggs  produced  (dozens)    3,673,488 

Crops  (1939): 

Winter  wheat,  threshed  (bushels)   32>^35 

Spring  wheat,  threshed  (bushels)    24,789 

Oats,  threshed  (bushels)    1,397,498 

Barley,  threshed  (bushels)   138,408 

Rye,  threshed  (bushels)   73>537 

Mixed  grains,  threshed  (bushels)   70,580 

Flax,  threshed  (bushels)   56,345 

All  hay,  and  sorghum  for  forage  (tons) 5°7>734 

Corn  for  grain  (bushels)   516,096 

Irish  potatoes  (bushels)    1,878,577 

Forest  products  sold  (1934:  latest  available  figure)  $370,358 

*  Figures  represent  all  Carlton,  Cass,  Cook,  Itasca,  Lake,  St.  Louis  Counties;  %0 
Aitkin,  Koochiching;  %  Crow  Wing;  ^io  Beltrami,  Hubbard. 


INDUSTRIAL    AND    COMMERCIAL  DATA  193 

HARBOR  STATISTICS 

0939) 

Exports  and  imports:        Duluth-Superior  Two  Harbors  Grand  Marais 

I.  Volume                            (short  tons)  (short  tons)  (short  tons) 

Shipments 29,936,618  9,602,477  19,863 

Receipts 8,111,788  127,961  1,070 

Totals    38,048,406  9>73°>438  20,933 

II.  Value 

Shipments $243,590,808  $35,145,066  $142,604 

Receipts 99,472,006  538,432  25,004 

Totals    $343,062,814  $35,683,498  $167,608 

III.  Harbor  tonnages:     (a)  Duluth-Superior 

Shipments —  Volume  Value 
Animals  and  animal  products: 

Butter  (tons)    65,969  $  34,171,942 

Cheese   (tons)    i>396~  469,056 

Eggs  (tons) 9,505  2,809,088 

Poultry,  dressed  (tons) 5>3I5  2,009,070 

All  other  (tons) 5*589  757>426* 

Vegetable  food  products: 

Canned  food  products  (tons) I3>237  I»747>2^4 

Flour,  wheat   (barrels) 1,938,804  9,306,259 

Flour  and  meal  (tons) 21,622  1,219,042 

Grains: 

Barley  (bushels)    6,855,083  3,111,412 

Corn  (bushels)    13,810,928  6,864,326 

Oats    (bushels)    15,525,500  5,21 1,954 

Rye  (bushels)    4,422,000  2,295,018 

Wheat  (bushels)   40,679,067  35,040,989 

Mill  products  (tons)    46,165  830,970 

Sugar  (tons)    9,430  886,420 

All  other  (tons) 16,838  1,622,564 

Vegetable  products,  inedible: 

Flaxseed  (bushels)    4,664,821  8,718,550 

All  other  (tons)    825  54*4^5 

Textiles: 

Bags  and  bagging  (tons)   45  12,825 

Wool  (tons)  11,373  7,119,498 

Wood  and  paper: 

Lumber  and  shingles  (tons) 37>r97  I»i33,i6i 

Paper  (tons)    801  53,298 

All  other  (tons)    239  11,110 

Nonmetallic  minerals: 

Coal,  bunker  (tons)  24,654  J03>547 

Coke  (tons)   19,645  139,480 

Fuel  oil  (barrels)    29,360  73,044 

All  other  (tons)    879  7,136 


194 


THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 


HARBOR  STATISTICS  (Contd.) 

Ores,  metals,  and  manufactures  of: 

Copper  ingots  (tons)   I3>448  2,877,872 

Iron  ore  (tons)    26,673,842  97,259,774 

Iron  and  steel,  manufactured  (tons)  493863  3,623,262 
Iron    and     steel,     unmanufactured 

(tons)     69,559  1,883,802 

Scrap  iron  (tons)   3°9>844  4>°54*3°4 

Zinc   (tons)    23,070  2,445,420 

All  other  (tons)    11,620  4,016,336 

Machinery  and  vehicles: 

Automobiles  (units)   65  43*8 10 

All  other  (tons) 259  110,633 

Chemicals   (tons)    68  10*384 

Unclassified: 

Miscellaneous   (tons)    7>5°°  1*486,277 

Total  shipments $243,590,808 

Receipts — 

Animals  and  animal  products: 

Fish,  fresh  (tons)    740            $         36,601 

Fish,  salt,  dried  and  canned  (tons)  562  111,557 

All  other  (tons)    1*032  216,673 

Vegetable  food  products: 

Barley  (bushels) 347*5^3  102,349 

Beverages  (tons)   3>5°°  3*038,816 

Canned  goods  (tons)   I3*9I7  1*837,044 

Confectionery  (tons)    3*649  1,032,667 

Grain  screenings  (tons)  35*8i6  32>77I 

Sugar  (tons)    1,878  176,532 

All  other  (tons)    15,263  1,274,983 

Vegetable  products,  inedible: 

Flaxseed  (bushels)    104,250  113,996 

Rubber  and  tires  (tons)    7,815  2,980,176 

All  other  (tons)    319  530,127 

Textiles: 

Linoleum  (tons)    5,641  1,548,455 

Twine  and  cordage  (tons)   5*749  93°*547 

All  other  (tons)    1,947  623,135 

Wood  and  paper: 

Paper   (tons)    5,132  625,456 

Woodpulp  (tons)    7,085  236,147 

All  other  (tons)    739  100,224 

Nonmetallic  minerals: 

Coal,  anthracite  (tons)    183,267  1,667,730 

Coal,  bituminous  (tons)    6,278,864  26,371,229 

Coke  (tons)   25,188  178,835 


INDUSTRIAL    AND    COMMERCIAL    DATA 


195 


HARBOR  STATISTICS  (Contd.) 


Fuel  oil  (barrels)    921,207  2,291,853 

Gasoline  (gallons)       i94>°35>455  *5>239>545 

Gravel  and  sand  (tons)  28,054  21,634 

Kerosene  (gallons)    11,720,286  635,415 

Limestone  and   limestone   products 

(tons)    364,972  1,057,625 

Lubricating  oils  (gallons)   1,523,784  545,3°7 

Stone   (tons)    9,993  *4>747 

Sulphur   (tons)    3,882  128,494 

Tar,  coal  (tons)    18,472  295,552 

All  other  (tons)    40,920  1,105,183 

Ores,  metals,  and  manufactures  of: 

Dolomite  (tons)    14,000  56,000 

Iron  and  steel,  manufactured  (tons)  56,182  4,814,771 

All  other  (tons)  9,681  624,111 

Machinery  and  vehicles: 

Automobiles  and  trucks  (units) ....  21,163  14,263,862 

All  other  (tons)    5,281  2,922,096 

Chemicals: 

Creosote  oil  (tons)   6,148  227,476 

Soda  ash  (tons)    11*295  237,195 

All  other  (tons)    6,578  920,859 

Unclassified: 

Miscellaneous   (tons)    5I>^49  10,304,231 

Total  receipts   $99,472,006 

(b)  Two  Harbors 

Shipments —  Volume  Value 

Iron  ore  (tons) 9,602,477  $35,145,066 

Receipts — 

Coal,  bituminous  (tons) 127,939  537,344 

Fish,  fresh  (tons)   22  1,088 

Total  receipts  (tons) 127,961  $     538,432 

(c)  Grand  Marais 

Shipments —  Volume  Value 

Pulpwood   (tons)    19,863  $      142,604 

Receipts — 

Fish    (tons)    345  17,064 

Coal,  bituminous  (tons)    700  2,940 

Miscellaneous   (tons)    25  5,000 

Total  receipts  (tons)    1,070  $       25,004 

Note:    Tons  in  this  table  are  short  tons  =  2,000  pounds. 


196  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

DOCKS  AND  TERMINALS 

I.  Duluth-Superior 
Docks 

21  coal  (capacity  13,013,000  tons) 

7  iron  ore  (length  3  miles;  capacity  819,000  tons) 
25  grain 

4  cement,  lime,  salt 
42  miscellaneous 

99  docks,  with  a  frontage  of  49  miles 
Terminals 

9  warehouses   (floor  space   1,730,000  sq.  ft.;  capacity   18,637,000 

cu.  ft.) 
25  grain  elevators  (capacity  46,925,000  bushels) 

i  cement  (capacity  114,000  barrels) 
35  terminals 
II.  Two  Harbors 
Docks 

3  iron  ore  (length  .75  mile;  capacity  168,800  tons) 

i  coal  (capacity  125,000  tons) 

i  merchandise  (draft  insufficient  for  commercial  craft) 

5  docks 

SHIPS  AND  THEIR  LANGUAGE 

The  larger  Great  Lakes  boats  are  about  600  feet  long,  have  a  crew  of 
35,  and  cost  about  $700,000;  package  freighters  cost  about  $300,000,  and 
Standard  Oil  tankers  with  Diesel  engine  about  $1,500,000. 

The  average  boat  travels  12  miles  per  hour  with  load  and  14  miles  when 
light;  a  round  trip  is  made  in  about  n  or  12  days. 

Regulations  (Duluth-Superior  Harbor): 
I.  Speed 

Not  to  exceed  8  miles  in  dredged  channels 

Must  be  reduced  when  vessel  approaches  drawspan,  to  enable  full 

stop  if  draw  fails  to  open 
II.  Anchorage 

The  Corps  of  Engineers,  U.  S.  A.,  and  U.  S.  Harbor  Inspector, 
or  authorized   representatives,  have  jurisdiction  over  position 
and  arrangement  of  vessels  at  anchor  in  basin 
Mooring  at  U.  S.  piers  not  permitted 
III.  Lights 

White  light  not  over  40  ft.  high,  visible  5  miles  on  clear  night 

from  bow 

Green  light  (not  visible  from  port  side),  visible  2  miles  on  star- 
board bow 

Red  light  (not  visible  from  starboard),  visible  2  miles  on  port  bow 
White  light  visible  3  miles  on  line  with  keel  and  not  more  than 
75  ft.  abaft  bow  light 


INDUSTRIAL    AND    COMMERCIAL    DATA  197 

Signals: 
General 

1  blast  (whistle) — I  am  directing  my  course  starboard  (right) 

2  blasts — I  am  directing  my  course  port  (left) 

i  long  blast — I  am  approaching  blind  curve,  or  backing  from  dock 

1  short  blast — I  am  overtaking  you,  passing  on  starboard 

2  short  blasts — I  am  overtaking  you,  passing  on  port 

3  blasts  repeated  at  i  minute  intervals — fog  signal 

5  or  more  short  blasts — Danger,  or  I  do  not  understand  your 
signal 

3  long,  2  short  blasts — Courtesy  to  foreign  or  visiting  craft,  first 
or  last  vessel  of  season 

All  signals  are  answered  in  kind,  except  danger  signal 

No  vessel  overtakes  another  in  channel  less  than  500  ft.  wide  with- 
out permission  of  second 

Steam  vessels  must  avoid  sailing  vessels 
Bridges: 

Duluth  Lift  3  long  blasts 

Interstate i  long,  i  short,  I   long 

Minnesota  Draw  (N.  P.)    i  long,  2  short 

Wisconsin  Draw  (N.  P.)   2  long,  2  short 

Grassy  Point   2  short,  i  long 

Arrowhead 3  long 

Lamborn  Avenue  3  short 

(Long  blast  should  not  exceed  3  seconds,  short  blast  i  second) 
Signal  should  be  given  when  vessel  is  .5  mile  distant 
Bridges  answer  in  kind;  if  unable  to  open,  signal  is  5  short  blasts 
Vessels  are  given  precedence  over  highway,  railway  traffic.    Except 

at  Duluth  Lift  Bridge,  those  of  100  net  registered  tons  or  less  may 

be  held  a  short  time  if  trains  carrying  U.  S.  mails,  or  4  street  cars 

from  one  direction,  are  ready  to  cross. 


*^r*^*'&*4?r*'0r*&r*^*-0*^r*4?*^^ 


Glossary 


<&<^*&K<0r*&™&V'0K&!&b0r^ 

Artifact:    In  archeology,  anything  made  or  modified  by  human  workman- 
ship as  distinguished  from  a  natural  object. 
Basalt:    A  heavy,  dark-colored  and  fine-grained  igneous  rock. 
Beneficiation:    In  mining,  the  reduction,  or  concentration,  of  iron  ore,  as  by 

washing  or  jigging,  drying,  crushing,  screening,  magnetism,  sintering 

or  fusion. 
Boom:    In  logging,  a  chain  of  floating  logs  or  timbers  fastened  together  end 

to  end  to  keep  logs  from  floating  away. 
Brig:    A  square-rigged  vessel  having  two  masts. 
Bunyan,  Paul:    A  legendary  lumberjack  capable  of  performing  superhuman 

feats. 
Canoe  Tilting:    A  contest  on  water  in  which  men  in  canoes,  with  long 

poles  padded  at  one  end,  try  to  overbalance  one  another. 
Chippewa,  or  Ojibway:    A  tribe  of  Indians  of  Algonquian  stock  living  in 

the  regions  near  the  Great  Lakes. 
Coureur  de  Bois:     An  unlicensed  trapper  or  hunter,  usually  French  or 

French-Canadian. 
Crushing:    In  mining,  a  process  of  beneficiation  whereby  iron  ore  is  broken 

up  in  order  to  facilitate  the  removal  of  silica. 
Curling:     A  game  played  on  level  ice  in  which  two  teams  composed  of 

four  players  each  slide  curling  stones  toward  a  mark  at  either  end 

called  the  tee. 

Cut-Over  Land:    Land  from  which  salable  timber  has  been  removed. 
Drift:     In  mining,  a  passage  in  a  mine,  horizontal,  or  nearly  so,  which 

follows  the  vein. 
Drying:    In  mining,  a  process  of  beneficiation  whereby  excess  moisture  in 

iron  ore  is  removed  by  revolving  ovens. 
Escarpment:    The  steep  face  or  slope  of  a  ridge. 
Es\er,  or  Esfar:    A  narrow  ridge  of  glacial  sand  and  gravel. 
Factor:    The  agent  in  control  of  a  post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  who 

in  addition  supervises  the  surrounding  area. 
Gabbro:    A  coarse,  igneous  rock. 

Gill  Net:    A  net  set  upright  in  the  water  that  catches  fish  by  their  gills. 
Grain  Elevator:    A  building  for  the  elevation,  storage  and  distribution  of 

grain. 

198 


GLOSSARY  199 

Hopper-Bottomed  Car:    A  railroad  car  with  an  open  top,  used  for  coal,  ore, 

etc.,  with  hoppers  in  the  bottom  to  discharge  the  contents. 
Intendant:    During  the  French  regime  in  Canada,  the  highest  administra- 
tive officer  under  the  governor. 
Livre:     A  former  French  coin,  which  was  equivalent  to   19^2   cents  in 

United  States  currency. 
Loading  Pocket:  The  bin  on  an  ore  dock  from  which  iron  ore  is  discharged 

into  the  hold  of  a  vessel. 

Log  Drive,  or  Drive:    The  floating  of  logs  down  a  river. 
Log  Rolling:    A  contest  in  which  competitors  on  a  floating  log  attempt  to 

dislodge  each  other  by  rapidly  rotating  the  log  with  their  feet. 
Low-Grade  Ore:     In  the  Arrowhead  mining  regions,  ore  containing  less 

than  50%  iron  is  considered  low  grade. 
Magnetism:    In  mining,  a  process  of  beneficiation  whereby  iron  oxide  is 

extracted  from  the  ore  by  magnetic  attraction. 

Mallet  Engine:    An  articulated  type  of  locomotive  used  for  heavy  freight. 
Mine  Shaft:     In  mining,  an  opening  in  underground  mines,  vertical  or 

nearly  so,  through  which  ores  are  hoisted,  supplies  let  down,  water 

pumped,  and  the  mine  ventilated. 
Ore  Body:    A  mass  of  earth  containing  ore. 
Ore  Car:    A  car  of  the  hopper  type  used  for  hauling  iron  ore. 
Outcrop,  or  Outcropping:     In  mining,  the  exposure  at  the  surface  of  a 

vein,  or  stratum,  of  ore. 

Paying  Lode:    A  deposit  of  ore  large  and  rich  enough  to  warrant  its  ex- 
traction. 
Portage:    The  land  route  between  navigable  bodies  of  water  over  which 

goods,  supplies  and  boats  are  carried;  transportation  over  such  a  route. 
Pot  Hole:    A  pit  formed  in  the  bed  of  a  river  by  water  whirling  stones  in 

an  eddy. 
Pre-Emption:    A  right  of  preference  in  the  purchase  of  Government  land 

legally  accorded  to  actual  settlers. 
Raft  Piloting:     In  lumbering,  the  floating  of  log  rafts  down  the  larger 

streams  in  the  earlier  days. 
Raise:    In  mining,  an  opening,  vertical  or  nearly  so,  which  connects  one 

level  (passageway)  with  another  one. 
"Roll":    A  slang  term  for  the  robbing  of  a  person  when  he  is  either  asleep 

or  drunk. 
Saulteurs:     A  Chippewa  Indian  tribe  formerly  living  around  Sault  Ste. 

Marie. 
Schooner:    A  fore-and-aft  rigged  vessel  originally  having  two  masts,  but 

now  often  more. 
Screening:     In  mining,  a  process  of  beneficiation  whereby  some  of  the 

silica  is  removed  from  the  iron  ore  by  sifting. 
Set  Line:    A  line  on  which  single  hooks  hung  by  short  lines  are  fastened 

for  catching  fish. 

Silica:    A  silicon  dioxide  found  in  its  crystalline  form  as  quartz. 
Sintering,  or  Fusion:    In  mining,  a  process  of  beneficiation  whereby  fine, 

powdery  iron  ores  are  fused  through  the  application  of  heat,  thus  re- 


200  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

moving  impurities  and  making  the  ore  an  acceptable  charge  for  a  blast 
furnace. 

Sioux,  or  Dakota:  An  extensive  family  of  Indians,  many  tribes  of  which 
inhabit  the  plains  west  of  the  Mississippi  River. 

Skijoring:  A  winter  sport  in  which  a  horse  draws  a  person  on  skis  over 
ice  or  snow. 

Styp:  A  large-sized  bucket  run  up  and  down  a  mine  shaft  for  hoisting 
purposes. 

Slag:     The  refuse,  or  dross,  of  the  smelting  process. 

Slalom  Skiing:  Skiing  downhill  on  a  zigzag  course  between  upright  ob- 
stacles, usually  flags. 

Sloop:  A  fore-and-aft  rigged  vessel  having  one  mast  and  carrying  a  main- 
sail and  jib. 

Stoc^  Pile:    In  mining,  the  ore  stored  at  the  surface. 

Stripping*:  In  the  open-pit  method  of  mining,  the  surface,  or  overburden, 
stripped  to  expose  the  ore  body;  mining  excavations  or  diggings. 

Subscriber:    A  signer  of  a  document,  as  one  who  signs  papers  of  occupation. 

Taconite:    On  the  Mesabi  Range,  iron-bearing  rock  formations. 

Test  Pit:  In  mining,  a  miniature  shaft  sunk  to  determine  ore  deposits 
(obsolete). 

Till  Plain:    Unstratified  level  land  of  glacial  origin. 

Timber  Cruiser,  or  Cruiser:    One  who  estimates  timber  on  forest  lands. 

Tote  Sleigh:    In  lumbering,  a  sleigh  on  which  supplies  are  hauled. 

Trillium:    A  flower  of  the  lily  family. 

Veinstone:    In  mining,  the  valueless  material  around  ore. 

Voyageur:  In  early  fur-trading  days,  licensed  fur  traders  in  the  Northwest, 
later  restricted  to  boatmen. 

Washing,  or  Jigging:  In  mining,  a  process  of  beneficiation  whereby  silica, 
gangue  and  other  extraneous  materials  are  removed  from  iron  ore 
through  the  action  of  watert 


Chronology 


1623    £tienne  Brule,  a  delegate  of  Samuel  de  Champlain,  was  the  first 

known  white  man  to  visit  Lake  Superior. 
1627    King  Louis   XIII  of  France  chartered   Cardinal   Richelieu's  "The 

Company  of  New  France"  for  the  exploitation  of  the  New  World. 

Samuel  de  Champlain  was  made  active  manager  with  the  tide  of 

governor  and  lieutenant  general  of  New  France. 
1655    Radisson  and  Groseilliers  probably  penetrated  the  area. 
1660    The  first  cargo  of  furs  was  shipped  by  way  of  Lake  Superior. 

1670  King  Charles  of  England  chartered  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

1671  Great  Pageant  at  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  when  St.  Lusson  took  possession 
of  the  Northwest  for  France. 

1673    Marquette's  map  of  Lake  Superior  region  published  in  Paris. 

1679    Daniel  Greysolon,  Sieur  du  Lhut,  held  a  council  of  Indian  tribes  at 

the  head  of  the  lakes  to  establish  peace  and  facilitate  fur  trading. 
1688    Jacques  de  Noyon  traversed  the  chain  of  border  lakes  now  forming 

the  International   Border. 

1710    Daniel  Greysolon,  Sieur  du  Lhut,  died  at  Montreal. 
1731     Sieur  de  la  Verendrye  crossed  the  Grand  Portage,  leaving  the  first 

written  record. 

The  first  sailing  vessel  built  on  Lake  Superior  was  constructed  by 

La  Ronde  near  Sault  Ste.  Marie. 
1750    The   Chippewa   established   themselves   in   the   Arrowhead   region 

through  their  victory  over  the  Sioux  in  the  battle  of  Kathio  (1744?). 
1753     The  first  registered  birth  entry  made  for  child  born  at  or  near  one 

of  the  first  recorded  wintering  houses  at  the  head  of  the  lakes. 

By  the  Treaty  of  Paris,  France  ceded  her  possessions  in  Canada, 

including  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead,  to  England. 

Jonathan  Carver  traveled  along  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior,  visiting 

St.  Louis  Bay  and  Grand  Portage. 

Peter  Pond,  a  pathfinder  and  fur  trader,  made  his  first  western 

trip.    He  suggested  the  International  Boundary  as  adopted  by  the 

Treaty  of  Paris  in  1783. 

The  British  constructed  a  small  fort  at  Grand  Portage  and  laid  out 

a  road  across  the  trail — the  only  military  operation  in  Minnesota 

during  the  Revolutionary  War. 

Grand  Portage,  Cook  County,  the  first  white  settlement  in  Minne- 
sota, became  the  central  depot  for  the  fur  trade. 

201 


202  THE     MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD     COUNTRY 

At  the  insistence  of  Benjamin  Franklin,  England  ceded  the  region 
to  the  United  States  in  the  Treaty  of  Paris,  which  brought  the  Revo- 
lutionary War  to  an  end. 

1784  The  Northwest  Company  was  organized  by  dissatisfied  traders  of 
eastern  Canada. 

1787  The  Continental  Congress  passed  an  ordinance  for  the  purpose  of 
putting  unoccupied  territory  under  government.  In  1796  it  was 
applied  to  the  Northwest  Territory,  including  the  Arrowhead. 

1793  Jean  Baptiste  Perrault  built  Fort  St.  Louis,  a  fur-trading  post,  on  the 
Wisconsin  side  of  what  is  now  the  Duluth-Superior  Harbor. 

1794  The  Jay  Treaty  between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain  stipu- 
lated the  withdrawal  of  British  garrisons  from  American  soil  before 
June  i,  1796. 

1801-1804  The  trading  posts  o£  the  great  fur  companies  were  removed 
from  Grand  Portage  to  the  present  site  of  Fort  William. 

1806  Lieutenant  Zebulon  M.  Pike  visits  the  Sandy  Lake,  Leech  Lake,  and 
Cass  Lake  posts  of  the  Northwest  Company. 

1808     The  American  Fur  Company  was  founded  by  John  Jacob  Astor. 

1816     Congress  excluded  foreigners  from  trading  in  the  Arrowhead. 

1820  Territorial  Governor  Lewis  Cass  of  Michigan  traveled  4,000  miles 
through  Indian  country,  including  the  Arrowhead. 

1821  The  Northwest  and  Hudson's  Bay  Companies  united  under  the 
latter's  name. 

1823  Major  Stephen  H.  Long  and  William  H.  Keating,  by  order  of 
the  Federal  Government,  made  a  survey  of  the  International 
Boundary. 

1825  David  Thompson  made  the  first  scientific  survey  in  St.  Louis  County. 

1826  By  the  Treaty  of  Fond  du  Lac,  the  Chippewa  gave  white  men  per- 
mission to  explore  any  part  of  their  country  for  metals  and  minerals, 
and  to  carry  them  away. 

1831  William  A.  Aitkin,  a  fur  trader,  takes  charge  of  the  Fond  du  Lac 
department  of  the  American  Fur  Company  at  Sandy  Lake. 

1832  Schoolcraft  discovers  the  source  of  the  Mississippi  in  Lake  Itasca, 
after  his  expedition  had  passed  through  the  Arrowhead  region. 
Frederick  Ayer  started  the  first  missionary  school  in  the  Arrowhead 
at  Sandy  Lake  and  completed  there  an  Ojibway  spelling  book. 

1833  Reverend  Edmund  F.  Ely  succeeded  Frederick  Ayer  as  missionary 
at  Big  Sandy  Lake.    In  June,  1834,  the  mission  school  was  removed 
to  Fond  du  Lac. 

Reverend  William  Thurston  Boutwell  established  a  mission  at  Leech 
Lake. 

1834  John  Jacob  Astor  withdrew  from  the  American  Fur  Company  and 
Ramsay  Crooks  took  it  over. 

1836  Joseph  N.  Nicollet  began  his  explorations  in  Minnesota,  and  spent 
the  late  summer  with  Boutwell  at  Leech  Lake. 

1842     The  Webster- Ashburton  Treaty  fixed  the  present  International  Boun- 
dary between  the  United  States  and  Canada. 
The  American  Fur  Company  collapsed. 


CHRONOLOGY  2OJ 

1843     Nicollet's  large  map  of  the  Northwest  was  published.    It  was  a  con- 
tribution of  first  importance  to  American  geography. 

1845  Steamer  Independence  was  the  first  steamboat  on  Lake  Superior. 

1846  Father  Baraga  made  his  famous  journey  across  Lake  Superior  from 
La  Pointe,  Wisconsin,  to  Cross  River,  Cook  County,  in  a  canoe 
during  a  storm. 

1847  Reuben  B.  Carlton,  after  whom  Carlton  County  was  later  named, 
arrived  at  Fond  du  Lac. 

1849  The  Territory  of  Minnesota  was  created  and  organized.    Alexander 
Ramsey  was  the  first  governor. 

1850  Itasca  County,  established  in  1849  and  then  embracing  all  of  north- 
eastern Minnesota,  had  a  population  of  97  persons,  excluding  the 
Indians. 

1851  Cass  County  created. 

1852  George  R.  Stuntz,  a  government  surveyor,  arrived  at  the  head  of  the 
lakes — Duluth's  first  permanent  setder.    He  prepared  the  region  for 
settlement. 

1854  The  Treaty  of  La  Pointe,  Wisconsin,  opened  the  north  shore  of 
Lake  Superior  to  white  settlement.    The  cession  of  one  square  mile 
of  land  to  Chief  Buffalo  subsequendy  had  detrimental  bearing  on 
Duluth  realty. 

1855  There  was  a  rush  to  the  north  shore  for  copper. 

The  first  frame  house  in  Duluth  built  by  Robert  Emmet  Jefferson 

on  Lake  Avenue. 

The  Arrowhead's  first  sawmill  was  established  at  Duluth. 

Lewis  H.  Merritt  and  his  oldest  son,  Napoleon,  arrived  by  steamer 

at  the  head  of  the  lakes. 

The  Superior  Chronicle,  first  published  on  June  12,  was  the  first 

newspaper  at  the  head  of  the  lakes. 

1856  A  big  boom  in  north  shore  lands,  caused  by  rumors  of  copper  de- 
posits, resulted  in  the  platting  of  numerous  town  sites. 

Duluth  was  platted.    The  name  was  suggested  by  Reverend  Joseph 

G.  Wilson. 

St.  Louis  County  established  and  first  elections  held. 

Lake,  Morrison,  and  Pine  Counties  established. 

First  public  school  on  north  shore  was  held  at  Oneota,  now  a  part  of 

Duluth.    Jerome  Merritt  was  the  teacher. 

The  site  of  Beaver  Bay,  Lake  County,  was  occupied  by  William  H. 

Newton  and  Thomas  Clark. 

The  Military  Road  was  cut  from  St.  Paul  to  the  head  of  the  lakes. 

First  temperance  society  on  north  shore  organized. 

A  famine  prevailed  at  the  head  of  the  lakes  during  the  winter  of 

1855-56.    Flour  sold  as  high  as  60  cents  a  pound. 

1857  A  national  money  panic  was  almost  calamitous  to  the  head  of  the 
lakes  region.    The  population  fell  from  3,000  to  about  750. 

The  first  land  office  in  the  Arrowhead  was  established  at  Buchanan, 
one  mile  west  of  the  mouth  of  Knife  River. 
Duluth  was  incorporated  as  a  village. 


204  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

The  first  frame  schoolhouse  in  northeastern  Minnesota  was  built 

at  Oneota. 

The  Arrowhead's  first  newspaper,  The  North  Shore  Advocate,  was 

published  at  Buchanan. 

Aitkin,  Carlton,  Crow  Wing,  and  Mille  Lacs  Counties  established. 

1858  Minnesota  was  admitted  as  a  State  into  the  Union. 

1859  First  agricultural  society  in  St.  Louis  County  organized  at  Oneota. 
The  first  brewery  in  Duluth  was  started  near  Washington  Avenue 
and  First  Street,  on  Brewery  Creek. 

1860  The  Arrowhead  region,  including  several  adjoining  counties,  had  a 
population  of  2,016,  of  which  number  406  were  in  St.  Louis  County. 
A  topographical  survey  of  the  bays,  rivers,  and  shores  of  Lake  Su- 
perior was  made.    General  Meade  was  in  charge. 

1861  Luke  Marvin  and  Sidney  Luce  were  appointed  officers  of  the  U.  S. 
Land  Office  at  Portland.    They  were  influential  in  making  Duluth, 
in  1870,  the  northern  terminus  of  the  first  railroad  to  Lake  Superior 
(see  1865). 

1862  The  total  valuation  of  personal  property  in  St.  Louis  County  was 
$5>ooo. 

A  Catholic  missionary,  Reverend  Francis  Pierz,  prevented  the  Chip- 
pewa  from  joining  the  Sioux  in  their  uprising. 

1864  St.  Louis  County  tax  contribution  to  the  State  was  $725.05. 

1865  Rumors  of  gold  caused  a  "rush"  to  Lake  Vermilion. 

George  R.  Stuntz  discovered  iron  ore  on  the  Vermilion  Range.    His 

location  was  the  first  iron  ore  bed  later  to  be  worked  in  Minnesota, 

the  Breitung  Mine. 

Henry  H.  Eames,  the  State  Geologist,  and  his  brother  Richard  found 

large  deposits  of  iron  ore  near  Lake  Vermilion. 

Christian  Wieland,  a  civil  engineer,  discovered  iron  ore  near  Babbitt, 

on  the  eastern  Mesabi  Range. 

The  Vermilion  Trail  was  cut  from  Duluth  to  Tower. 

The  total  enrollment  of  children  of  school  age  in  St.  Louis  County 

was  87. 

Commodore  H.  Saxton  and  the  Hon.  Thomas  Clark  examined  and 

surveyed  the  route  for  the  first  railroad  between  St.  Paul  and  Duluth. 

Ansel  Smith  and  John  M.  Gilman  did  much  to  make  Duluth  the 

northern  terminal  (see  1861). 

1866  Beltrami  County  established. 

1867  Jay  Cooke,  the  eastern  financier,  paid  his  first  visit  to  Duluth.    He 
made  Duluth,  in  1870,  the  eastern  terminal  of  the  Northern  Pacific 
Railroad. 

1869  The  first  Duluth  newspaper,  The  Duluth  Minnesotian,  was  first 
published  on  April  24.    Dr.  Thomas  Foster  was  the  editor. 

1870  Duluth  received  a  city  charter.    Colonel  Joshua  B.  Culver  was  the 
first  mayor. 

Federal  Census  shows  a  population  of  3,131  for  Duluth,  and  4,561 
for  St.  Louis  County.  Other  counties  in  or  adjacent  to  the  Arrow- 
head region  show  the  following  figures:  Aitkin,  178;  Beltrami,  80; 


CHRONOLOGY 


205 


Carlton,  286;  Cass,  380;  Crow  Wing,  200;  Itasca,  96;  Kanabec,  93; 

Lake,  135;  Mille  Lacs,  1,109;  Morrison,  1,681;  Pine,  648. 

First  issue  of  Duluth  Tribune,  a  weekly  paper,  appears  on  May  4; 

publisher  Robert  C.  Mitchell. 

The  Arrowhead's  first  railroad,  the  Lake  Superior  and  Mississippi, 

reaches  Duluth  from  St.  Paul. 

Work  on  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  begins  February  15  at  N.  P. 

Junction,  now  the  location  of  Carlton. 

Duluth  Chamber  of  Commerce  first  organized;  Henry  A.  Gould 

first  president  (see  1880). 

1871  The  Duluth  Ship  Canal  was  dug. 

The  first  grain  elevator  was  built  in  Duluth. 

Peter  Mitchell  explores  the  eastern  end  of  the  Mesabi  Range  for  an 
Ontonagon  (Michigan)  Syndicate.  This  aroused  the  interest  of 
eastern  financiers  in  Minnesota  iron  ore  deposits. 

1872  The  Duluth  Evening  Tribune,  a  daily  paper,  established  on  May  15 
by  Robert  C.  Mitchell. 

1873  The  Duluth  Daily  Herald  founded  by  Robert  D'Unger  in  the  spring 
of  this  year. 

The  failure  of  Jay  Cooke  caused  a  nation-wide  panic,  dealing  an 
almost  mortal  blow  to  the  development  of  the  area. 
The  Duluth  Ship  Canal  was  reconstructed  and  taken  over  by  the 
U.  S.  Government. 

1874  Cook  County  established. 

1875  Professor  Albert  H.  Chester  explores  the  eastern  end  of  the  Mesabi 
and  also  the  Vermilion  Range  for  iron  ore  (see  1880). 

1877  The  village  of  Duluth  is  created  out  of  a  part  of  the  bankrupt 
city. 

1878  W.  S,  Woodbridge  establishes  the   Weekly  La\e  Superior  News. 
This  paper,  in  1886,  became  a  daily,  and,  in  1892,  by  consolidation, 
the  News-Tribune  came  into  being. 

1879  A  public  library  established  in  Duluth  (see  1890). 

1880  United  States  Census  figures  for  the  following  counties,  within  or 
adjacent  to  the  Arrowhead  region,  are:  Aitkin,  366;  Beltrami,  10; 
Carlton,  1,230;  Cass,  486;  Cook,  65;  Crow  Wing,  2,319;  Itasca,  124; 
Kanabec,  505;  Lake,  106;  Mille  Lacs,  1,501;  Morrison,  5,875;  Pine, 
1,365;  St.  Louis,  4,504. 

Professor  Albert  H,  Chester  leads  a  second  expedition  to  the  Ver- 
milion Range  with  George  R.  Stuntz  as  guide. 
The  Duluth  Chamber  of  Commerce  established  (see  1870). 

1 88 1  State  Legislature  imposes  a  tax  of  one  cent  a  long  ton  on  iron  ore. 
The  Duluth  Street  Railway  Company  was  granted  a  franchise. 
First  telephone  exchange  established  in  Duluth. 

1882  The  town  sites  of  Tower  and  Soudan  are  surveyed  by  George  R. 
Stuntz. 

In  December,  the  Minnesota  Iron  Mining  Company  was  formed  by 
Tower,  Breitung,  Lee,  Stuntz,  and  Stone. 

St      T  .llkf'c    T-Tr»cniti1     in     rinliitK    nxroc    fminrl^rl 


204  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

The  first  frame  schoolhouse  in  northeastern  Minnesota  was  built 

at  Oneota. 

The  Arrowhead's  first  newspaper,  The  North  Shore  Advocate,  was 

published  at  Buchanan. 

Aitkin,  Carlton,  Crow  Wing,  and  Mille  Lacs  Counties  established. 

1858  Minnesota  was  admitted  as  a  State  into  the  Union. 

1859  First  agricultural  society  in  St.  Louis  County  organized  at  Oneota. 
The  first  brewery  in  Duluth  was  started  near  Washington  Avenue 
and  First  Street,  on  Brewery  Creek. 

1860  The  Arrowhead  region,  including  several  adjoining  counties,  had  a 
population  of  2,016,  of  which  number  406  were  in  St.  Louis  County. 
A  topographical  survey  of  the  bays,  rivers,  and  shores  of  Lake  Su- 
perior was  made.    General  Meade  was  in  charge. 

1861  Luke  Marvin  and  Sidney  Luce  were  appointed  officers  of  the  U.  S. 
Land  Office  at  Portland.    They  were  influential  in  making  Duluth, 
in  1870,  the  northern  terminus  of  the  first  railroad  to  Lake  Superior 
(see  1865). 

1862  The  total  valuation  of  personal  property  in  St.  Louis  County  was 
$5,000. 

A  Catholic  missionary,  Reverend  Francis  Pierz,  prevented  the  Chip- 
pewa  from  joining  the  Sioux  in  their  uprising. 

1864  St.  Louis  County  tax  contribution  to  the  State  was  $725.05. 

1865  Rumors  of  gold  caused  a  "rush"  to  Lake  Vermilion. 

George  R.  Stuntz  discovered  iron  ore  on  the  Vermilion  Range.    His 

location  was  the  first  iron  ore  bed  later  to  be  worked  in  Minnesota, 

the  Breitung  Mine. 

Henry  H.  Eames,  the  State  Geologist,  and  his  brother  Richard  found 

large  deposits  of  iron  ore  near  Lake  Vermilion. 

Christian  Wieland,  a  civil  engineer,  discovered  iron  ore  near  Babbitt, 

on  the  eastern  Mesabi  Range. 

The  Vermilion  Trail  was  cut  from  Duluth  to  Tower. 

The  total  enrollment  of  children  of  school  age  in  St.  Louis  County 

was  87. 

Commodore  H.  Saxton  and  the  Hon.  Thomas  Clark  examined  and 

surveyed  the  route  for  the  first  railroad  between  St.  Paul  and  Duluth. 

Ansel  Smith  and  John  M.  Gilman  did  much  to  make  Duluth  the 

northern  terminal  (see  1861). 

1866  Beltrami  County  established. 

1867  Jay  Cooke,  the  eastern  financier,  paid  his  first  visit  to  Duluth.    He 
made  Duluth,  in  1870,  the  eastern  terminal  of  the  Northern  Pacific 
Railroad. 

1869  The  first  Duluth  newspaper,  The  Duluth  Minnesotian,  was  first 
published  on  April  24.    Dr.  Thomas  Foster  was  the  editor. 

1870  Duluth  received  a  city  charter.    Colonel  Joshua  B.  Culver  was  the 
first  mayor. 

Federal  Census  shows  a  population  of  3,131  for  Duluth,  and  4,561 
for  St.  Louis  County.  Other  counties  in  or  adjacent  to  the  Arrow- 
head region  show  the  following  figures:  Aitkin,  178;  Beltrami,  80; 


CHRONOLOGY  205 

Carlton,  286;  Cass,  380;  Crow  Wing,  200;  Itasca,  96;  Kanabec,  93; 

Lake,  135;  Mille  Lacs,  1,109;  Morrison,  1,681;  Pine,  648. 

First  issue  of  Duluth  Tribune,  a  weekly  paper,  appears  on  May  4; 

publisher  Robert  C.  Mitchell. 

The  Arrowhead's  first  railroad,  the  Lake  Superior  and  Mississippi, 

reaches  Duluth  from  St.  Paul. 

Work  on  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  begins  February  15  at  N.  P. 

Junction,  now  the  location  of  Carlton. 

Duluth  Chamber  of  Commerce  first  organized;  Henry  A.  Gould 

first  president  (see  1880). 

1871  The  Duluth  Ship  Canal  was  dug. 

The  first  grain  elevator  was  built  in  Duluth. 

Peter  Mitchell  explores  the  eastern  end  of  the  Mesabi  Range  for  an 
Ontonagon  (Michigan)  Syndicate.  This  aroused  the  interest  of 
eastern  financiers  in  Minnesota  iron  ore  deposits. 

1872  The  Duluth  Evening  Tribune,  a  daily  paper,  established  on  May  15 
by  Robert  C.  Mitchell. 

1873  The  Duluth  Daily  Herald  founded  by  Robert  D'Unger  in  the  spring 
of  this  year. 

The  failure  of  Jay  Cooke  caused  a  nation-wide  panic,  dealing  an 
almost  mortal  blow  to  the  development  of  the  area. 
The  Duluth  Ship  Canal  was  reconstructed  and  taken  over  by  the 
U.  S.  Government. 

1874  Cook  County  established. 

1875  Professor  Albert  H.  Chester  explores  the  eastern  end  of  the  Mesabi 
and  also  the  Vermilion  Range  for  iron  ore  (see  1880). 

1877  The  village  of  Duluth  is  created  out  of  a  part  of  the  bankrupt 
city. 

1878  W.  S,  Woodbridge  establishes  the   Weekly  La\e  Superior  News. 
This  paper,  in  1886,  became  a  daily,  and,  in  1892,  by  consolidation, 
the  News-Tribune  came  into  being. 

1879  A  public  library  established  in  Duluth  (see  1890). 

1880  United  States  Census  figures  for  the  following  counties,  within  or 
adjacent  to  the  Arrowhead  region,  are:  Aitkin,  366;  Beltrami,  10; 
Carlton,  1,230;  Cass,  486;  Cook,  65;  Crow  Wing,  2,319;  Itasca,  124; 
Kanabec,  505;  Lake,  106;  Mille  Lacs,  1,501;  Morrison,  5,875;  Pine, 
1,365;  St.  Louis,  4,504. 

Professor  Albert  H,  Chester  leads  a  second  expedition  to  the  Ver- 
milion Range  with  George  R.  Stuntz  as  guide. 
The  Duluth  Chamber  of  Commerce  established  (see  1870). 

1 88 1  State  Legislature  imposes  a  tax  of  one  cent  a  long  ton  on  iron  ore. 
The  Duluth  Street  Railway  Company  was  granted  a  franchise. 
First  telephone  exchange  established  in  Duluth. 

1882  The  town  sites  of  Tower  and  Soudan  are  surveyed  by  George  R. 
Stuntz. 

In  December,  the  Minnesota  Iron  Mining  Company  was  formed  by 
Tower,  Breitung,  Lee,  Stuntz,  and  Stone. 
St.  Luke's  Hospital  in  Duluth  was  founded. 


206  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

Robert  C.  Mitchell  changes  the  Duluth  Evening  Tribune  to  a  morn- 
ing paper. 

A  thirty  year  franchise  is  granted  to  the  Duluth  Gas  and  Water 
Company  (see  1898). 

1883  Hubbard  County  established. 

1884  The  Arrowhead's  first  iron  ore  was  shipped  from  the  Soudan  Mine, 
Vermilion   Range,  to   Agate   Bay   (now   Two   Harbors)   over  the 
Duluth  and  Iron  Range  Railroad. 

1885  The  site  of  the  Pioneer  Mine  at  Ely  discovered. 

R.  E.  Denfeld,  a  graduate  of  Amherst,  becomes  superintendent  of 

Duluth  public  schools. 

Duluth  has  a  population  of  18,036. 

1886  Cloquet  has  a  population  of  1,500,  Tower  3,000. 

The  Duluth  and  Iron  Range  Railroad  was  completed  from  Two 

Harbors  to  Duluth. 

The  site  of  the  Chandler  Mine  at  Ely  discovered. 

David  T.  Adams  discovers  iron  ore  near  Grand  Rapids. 

The    Old    Settlers'    Association    of    the    Head    of   Lake    Superior 

organized. 

Duluth  gets  its  first  regular  fire  department. 

22,000,000  bushels  of  grain  and  700,000  tons  of  coal  were  handled 

at  Duluth  Harbor. 

1887  Captain  Griffith  made  iron  ore  explorations  on  the  Mesabi  Range. 
Ely  organized  as  a  village. 

Duluth  reincorporated  as  a  city  on  March  2. 
The  Duluth  population  estimated  at  30,000. 

1888  Two  Harbors,  incorporated  as  a  village,  becomes  county  seat  of  Lake 
County,  succeeding  Beaver  Bay. 

John  Mailman,  Frank  Hibbing,  and  Captain  Elisha  Morcom  explore 

different  sections  of  the  Mesabi  Range  for  iron  ore. 

St.  Mary's  Hospital  in  Duluth  was  founded. 

Duluth  has   epidemic   of  typhoid   fever,   caused   by   contaminated 

water. 

The  Imperial  Mill  was  built  in  Duluth;  daily  capacity  of  3,000  was 

later  increased  to  8,000  barrels. 

City  Hall  at  Second  Avenue  East  was  built  in  Duluth  and  completed 

January  30,  1889. 

1889  The  "Nelson  Bill,"  for  the  relief  and  civilization  of  all  Chippewa 
Indians  in  Minnesota,  becomes  law. 

A  census  of  Chippewa  Indians  in  Minnesota  shows  a  total  number 

of  8,304  of  whom  1,708  were  in  Lake  Superior  bands. 

John  McCaskill  dug  the  first  test-pit  in  iron  ore  on  the  Mesabi 

Range. 

Captain  Alexander  McDougall  invented  a  new  type  of  Lake  freighter 

(see  1893). 

1890  United  States  Census  figures  for  the  following  counties,  within  or 
adjacent  to  the  Arrowhead  region,  are:  Aitkin,  2,462;  Beltrami,  312; 
Carlton,  5,272;  Cass,  1,247;  Cook,  98;  Crow  Wing,  8,852;  Hubbard, 


CHRONOLOGY  2OJ 

1,412;  Itasca,  743;  Kanabec,  1,579;  Lake>  1,299;  Mille  Lacs,  2,845; 

Morrison,  13,325;  Pine,  4,052;  St.  Louis,  44,862. 

Duluth  begins  to  use  electricity,  instead  of  mules,  to  run  streetcars. 

The  Merritts  discover  iron  ore  (Mountain  Iron  Mine,  Mesabi  Range) 

and  organize  the  Mountain  Iron  Company  with  Leonidas  Merritt  as 

first  president. 

The  Duluth  Public  Library  opened  August  i  (see  1879). 

Duluth  has  a  population  of  33,115. 

1891  Duluth  Incline  Railway  has  first  trial  run  on  October  2  (see  1939). 
Ely  becomes  a  city. 

Grand  Rapids  incorporated  as  a  village. 

1892  The  first  iron  ore  was  shipped  on  October  17  from  the  Mesabi  Range 
(Mountain  Iron  Mine). 

The  first  passenger  train  was  run  over  the  Duluth,  Missabe  and 
Northern  Railroad  from  Stony  Brook  to  Mountain  Iron  in  August. 
The  Lake  Superior  Iron  Company  was  organized.     It  became  the 
operating  company  for  many  holdings  of  Ribbing,  Trimble,  and 
Alworth. 

Henry  W.  Oliver,  of  Pittsburgh,  made  the  Mesabi  Range  what  it  is 
today — he  made  the  market  for  its  ore.  He  founded,  in  1892,  the 
Oliver  Iron  Mining  Company.  The  same  year  the  Carnegie  Steel 
Company  took  over  one  half  of  the  stock  of  the  Oliver  against  a 
loan  of  $500,000.  In  1901  the  Oliver  became  a  subsidiary  of  the 
newly  formed  United  States  Steel  Corporation.  Most  of  the  Minne- 
sota mining  properties  passed  eventually  to  the  Oliver  Iron  Mining 
Co.  (see  1896). 

Duluth  was  almost  completely  buried  under  snow  and  cut  off  from 
the  world  from  March  9  to  March  n. 

Villa  Sancta  Scholastica  founded  by  the  Sisters  of  St.  Benedict. 
The  Duluth  Central  High  School  building  completed. 
A  normal  training  school,  forerunner  of  the  State  Normal  School, 
was  started  in  Duluth  by  Denfeld. 
The  Duluth  News-Tribune  came  into  being  by  consolidation  (see 

I878K 

Virginia,  Biwabik,  McKinley,  and  Mountain  Iron  were  organized 
as  villages. 

1893  Rainy  Lake  was  the  scene  of  a  "gold  rush." 
Eveleth  organized  as  a  city. 

Hibbing  became  a  municipality. 

Proctor,  just  outside  the  Duluth  city  limits,  was  organized  under  the 

name  Proctorknott.    This  was  coincidental  with  the  establishment 

of  storage  yards  and  engine  shops  by  the  Duluth,  Missabe  and 

Northern  Railroad. 

The  Duluth,  Missabe  and  Northern  Railroad  completes  its  line  from 

Mountain  Iron  to  Duluth,  and  makes  connections  with  Virginia, 

Biwabik,  and  Hibbing. 

Disastrous  fire  at  Virginia  June  18. 

Great  financial  panic  (see  1890). 


208  THE    MINNESOTA     ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

The  first  wooden  ore  dock  in  Duluth  completed  in  October;  the 
first  steamer  loaded  from  its  pockets  the  same  month. 
Lake   Superior   Consolidated   Iron  Mines    Company   organized   by 
Rockefeller  and  the  Merritt  brothers  (see  1894). 
Captain  Alexander  McDougall's  "immense  passenger  boat"  Christo- 
pher Columbus  was  in  service  at  the  World's  Fair  in  Chicago  (see 
1889). 
Jay  Cooke  visits  Duluth  for  the  last  time. 

1894  Collapse  of  the  Merritt  brothers  enterprises.     They  live  in  history 
as  the  "Seven  Iron  Men."     Rockefeller  men  became  directors  and 
officials  of  the  Lake  Superior  Consolidated  Iron  Mines  Company 
(see  1893). 

Virginia  incorporated  as  a  city. 

Forest  fires  destroy  Hinckley  and  Sandstone  in  Pine  County. 
Township  of  Stuntz,  richest  in  St.  Louis  County,  organized.    It  con- 
tributes almost  twice  as  much  to  the  county  revenue  as  Duluth. 

1895  Congress  designated  the  harbors  of  Duluth  and  Superior  as  one — 
the  Duluth-Superior  Harbor. 

Duluth  ranks  second  in  country  in  flour  production  with  ten  flour 
mills  of  19,000  barrels  daily  capacity. 

1896  The  Oliver  Iron  Mining  Company  leased  the  properties  of  the  Lake 
Superior  Consolidated   Iron   Mines   Company — the   Rockefeller  in- 
terests— on  a  royalty  basis  of  twenty-five  cents  a  ton  for  fifty  years, 
1,200,000  tons  to  be  shipped  annually  over  the  Rockefeller  railroads. 
Control  of  the  Oliver  Iron  Mining  Company  passed  to  the  Carnegie 
Steel  Company  with  the  shifting  of  an  additional  one-third  of  the 
Oliver  mining  stock   to   Carnegie,   thus   making   the   holdings   of 
Carnegie  five-sixths  of  the  total  stock.    The  capital  was  then  $1,200,- 
ooo  (see  1892). 

Beltrami  County  organized.    Bemidji,  the  county  seat,  incorporated. 
1898    Duluth   takes   over   water   and   gas   plants,   which   are   henceforth 

operated  as  municipal  utilities  (see  1882). 

Indian  uprising  at  Leech  Lake. 
1900     United  States  Census  figures  for  the  following  counties,  within  or 

adjacent  to  the  Arrowhead   region,  are:   Aitkin,   6,743;   Beltrami, 

11,030;  Carlton,  10,017;  Cass,  7,777;  Cook,  810;  Crow  Wing,  14,250; 

Hubbard,  6,578;  Itasca,  4,573;  Kanabec,  4,614;  Lake,  4,654;  Mille 

Lacs,  8,066;  Morrison,  22,891;  Pine,  11,546;  St.  Louis,  82,932. 

The  cut  of  lumber  in  the  Duluth  district  amounted  to  675,000,000 

board  feet. 

The  Alger-Smith  Mill  in  West  Duluth  considered  the  largest  white 

pine  sawmill  in  the  world. 

1902  A  Federal  Reserve  was  established  in  the  western  part  of  the  Arrow- 
head region,  which,  in  1908,  became  the  Minnesota  National  Forest 
and,  in  1928,  the  Chippewa  National  Forest. 

1903  Aurora  and  Chisholm,  both  in  St.  Louis  County,  incorporated  as 
villages. 

1906    Koochiching  County  established. 


CHRONOLOGY  20Q 

The  Thomson  Dam  in  the  Cloquet  River,  near  Carlton,  completed. 

1907  Two  Harbors,  Lake  County,  incorporated  as  a  city. 

1908  State  Sanatorium  for  Consumptives  opens  at  Ah-Gwah-Ching,  near 
Walker,  on  Leech  Lake. 

Ore  Dock  No.  6,  first  steel  ore  dock  in  the  United  States,  completed 
at  Two  Harbors. 

1909  The  Superior  National  Forest  was  established. 

1910  United  States  Census  figures  for  the  following  counties,  within  or 
adjacent  to  the  Arrowhead  region,  are:   Aitkin,   10,371;  Beltrami, 
J9>337;  Carlton,   17,559;  Cass,   11,620;  Cook,   1,336;  Crow  Wing, 
1 6,86 1 ;  Hubbard,  9,831;  Itasca,  17,208;  Kanabec,  6,461;  Koochiching, 
6,431;   Lake,   8,011;   Mille  Lacs,    10,705;   Morrison,   24,053;    Pine, 
15,878;  St.  Louis,  163,274. 

1911  The  first  iron  ore  was  shipped  from  the  Cuyuna  Range  (Kennedy 
Mine). 

1913  Duluth  adopts  new  city  charter,  changing  from  aldermanic  to  com- 
mission form  of  government. 

1914  The   plant   of   the   Minnesota    Steel   Company   was   completed    in 
Duluth. 

1916  Iron,  steel,  and  Pordand  cement  plants  begin  large  scale  production 
at  Duluth. 

The  world's  first  Insulite  mill  was  opened  by  the  Minnesota  and 
Ontario  Paper  Company  at  International  Falls. 

1917  Act  passed  to  regulate  commercial  fishing  on  Lake  Superior. 

1918  A  forest  fire  devastated  more  than  1,500  square  miles  in  the  Arrow- 
head region  with  a  death  toll  of  432  persons. 

1919  The  village  of  Hibbing  was  moved  because  rich  deposits  of  iron  ore 
were  found  underneath  its  streets. 

State  Normal  School  at  Bemidji  opens. 

1920  United  States  Census  figures  for  the  following  counties,  within  or 
adjacent  to  the  Arrowhead  region,  are:   Aitkin,   15,043;  Beltrami, 
27,079;   Carlton,   19,391;   Cass,   15,897;   Cook,   1,841;   Crow  Wing, 
24,566;  Hubbard,   10,136;  Itasca,  23,876;  Kanabec,  9,086;  Koochi- 
ching, 13,520;  Lake,  8,251;  Mille  Lacs,  I4',i8o;  Morrison,  25,841; 
Pine,  21,117;  St.  Louis,  206,391. 

1922  St.  Louis  County  Historical  Society  organized  by  its  first  president, 
the  Hon.  William  E.  Culkin. 

1923  The  Hibbing  Technical  and  Vocational  High  School — a  "Monument 
to  Education" — completed  at  a  cost  of  $3,800,000. 

1924  The  Minnesota  Arrowhead  Association  was  formed. 

1929  The  world's  largest  white  pine  mill — owned  by  The  Virginia  and 
Rainy  Lake  Lumber  Company — was  closed  at  Virginia. 

Record  shipment  of  51,531,748  short  tons  of  iron  ore  from  Minne- 
sota mines — 44,141,805  tons  from  the  Duluth-Superior  Harbor, 
7,393,943  tons  from  Two  Harbors. 

1930  The  Duluth  lift  bridge  was  completed. 

United  States  Census  figures  for  the  following  counties,  within  or 
adjacent  to  the  Arrowhead  region,  are:  Aitkin,  15,009;  Beltrami, 


2IO  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

20,707;  Carlton,  21,232;  Cass,  15,591;  Cook,  2,435;  Crow  Wing, 
25,627;  Hubbard,  9,596;  Itasca,  27,224;  Kanabec,  8,558;  Koochiching, 
14,078;  Lake,  7,068;  Mille  Lacs,  14,076;  Morrison,  25,442;  Pine, 
20,264;  St.  Louis,  204,596. 

1934  The  Duluth  Civic  Symphony  Association  was  formed. 

1935  The  $30,000  4-H  Clubhouse,  a  prize  awarded  to  the  St.  Louis  County 
organization  for  nationally  outstanding  club  work,  was  dedicated  at 
Esquagama  Lake  (near  Biwabik). 

1937    The  completion  of  the  Duluth  Civic  Center  is  celebrated. 

St.  Louis  County  library  service  begun  through  contract  with  County 
Board  of  Commissioners. 

1939  Crown  Prince  Olav  and  Crown  Princess  Martha  of  Norway  visit  the 
Arrowhead  region  and  dedicate  Enger  Memorial  Tower  in  Duluth. 
Duluth  Incline  Railway  discontinues  service  and  is  dismantled. 

1940  The  thirty-second  annual  National  Governor's  Conference  was  held 
at  Duluth. 

Fiftieth  Anniversary  of  the  discovery  of  iron  ore  at  the  site  of  Moun- 
tain Iron,  on  the  Mesabi  Range,  is  celebrated  at  Mountain  Iron. 
A  new  sewage  disposal  system  was  completed  at  Duluth  at  a  cost  of 
more  than  $1,850,000. 

United  States  Census  figures  for  the  following  counties,  within  or 
adjacent  to  the  Arrowhead  region,  are:  Aitkin,  17,865;  Beltrami, 
26,107;  Carlton,  24,212;  Cass,  20,646;  Cook,  3,030;  Crow  Wing, 
30,226;  Hubbard,  11,085;  Itasca,  32,996;  Kanabec,  9,651;  Koochich- 
ing, 16,930;  Lake,  6,956;  Mille  Lacs,  15,558;  Morrison,  27,473; 
21,478;  St.  Louis,  206,917. 


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214  THE    MINNESOTA    ARROWHEAD    COUNTRY 

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BIBLIOGRAPHY  215 

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^&^0^0V^*^Xs0^0r*<&V<0^0^0^^ 


Index 


<&^0^&**0^0r*'0*^*&Vs0V*0*^^ 


Adams,  Cuyler,  16,  100,  181 
Agate  Bay,  152 

See  also  Two  Harbors 
Agate  bay,  16,  152 
Agency  bay,  180 
Agriculture,  20,  42,   100,   101,  124, 

139 

alfalfa-clover,  80,  140,  141,  147 
dairying,  78,  83,  96,  99,  122,  125, 

143,  158,  182 

experiment  stations,  20,  130 
livestock,  74,  83,  158 
potatoes,  82,  122,  182 
poultry   and   produce,   71,   74-75, 

78,  122,  143 
statistics,  192 
Ah-Gwah-Ching,  26,  179 
Aitkin,  20,  71-72,  181 
Aitkin  county,  3,  140-141,  181 
Aitkin,  William  A.,  71,  141 
Alger  Smith  Lumber  Company,  76, 

162 

Alice  (Ribbing),  132 
Allouez,  Father  Claude,  6 
American  Fur  Company,  9-10,  35, 
43,  71,  104,  116,  127,  141,  179, 
181 

American  island,  12,  176 
American  Steel  &  Wire  Company, 

H5  , 

Andy  Gibson,  72 
Apostle  Islands,  164 
Arlen,   Richard,   28 
Army  Engineers,  U.  S.,  35,  in 
Arnold,  Dorothy,  28 
Ashawa  (Cook),  99 


Astor  Company,  116 

See  also  American  Fur  Company 
Astor,  John  Jacob,  9 
Atkinson,  91,  182 
Aurora,  73-74,  186 
Ayer,  Frederick,  141,  181 

Babbitt,  15,  16,  186 

Bailey,  C.  E.,  126 

Bailey,  W.  T.  Lumber  Co.,  156 

Baker,  Alexander,  135 

Ball  Club,  42 

Balm  O'Gilead,  116 

Banning,  Margaret  Culkin,  28 

Baraga,  Father  Fredric,  165,  180 

Bardon's  peak,  118 

Barnes,  Rev.  Alonzo,  21 

Barnes,  Julius  H.,  in 

Barnum,  74-75,  182 

Barnum,  George  G.,  74 

Barrett,  R.  H.,  112 

Bear  island,  165 

Beaulieu,  Emma,  85 

Beaver  Bay,  12,  15,  75-76,  153,  164 

Belle  Harbor  (Isle  Royale),  166 

Beltrami  county,  3,  39,  77,  83 

Beltrami,  G.  C.,  42,  141 

Belville,  105 

Bemidji,  21,  76-79,  178 

Bemidji,  Chief,  77,  79,  178 

Bena,  41,  42,  79-80,  179 

Bena  Townsite  Company,  79 

Berst-Forster-Dixfield  Company,  96, 
101 

Bevier  Mining  and  Milling  Com- 
pany, 12 


217 


2l8 


INDEX 


Bickford,  A.  E.,  154 

Big  Falls,  80-8 1,  147,  178 

Bigfork,  173 

Big  Sandy  lake,  see  Lakes 

Biwabik,  73,  81-82,  126,  186,  187 

Black  bay,  176 

Blackduck,  41,  83-84,  178 

Blueberries,  80,  175 

Bonness,  Fred,  72 

Border  patrol: 

immigration,  135,  169,  176 

customs,  135,  169,  176 

customs,  inspection,  135,  169,  176 

See  also  International  boundary 
Boucher,  Pierre,  166 
Boutwell,  Rev.  W.  T.,  43,  104,  141, 

179 

Bovey,  84-85,  173 
Brainerd,  21,  85-87,  180 
Breck,  Rev.  James  Lloyd,  179 
Bridges: 

Aerial  Lift,  34,   100,  in 

Arrowhead,  114 

Duluth-Oliver,  116 

International     (Int.    Falls),    176; 
(Pigeon  River),  169 

Interstate,  113 

Swinging,   119 
British:   6,   8,  9,   10,  93,   168,   181, 

184 

Brown's  point,  141,  181 
Brule,  Etienne,  29 
Buade,  Louis  de,  see  Frontenac 
Buchanan,  n,  21,  162 
Buchman,  Sidney,  28 
Buhl,  87-89,  138,  139,  172 
Buhl,  Frank  H.,  88 
Bunyan,  Paul,  23-24,  78,  83,  85,  87, 

158,  165,  178 
Burlington  bay,  12,  152 
Burnham  Daniel  H.  113 
Bushy  Head  island,  176 
Buyck,  184,  186 

Calumet,  89-90,  142,  173 
Campbell,  J.  C.,  125 
Campgrounds  and  tourist  parks: 
Chippewa  National  Forest,  40-42 


Campgrounds   and   tourist   parks — 

(Continued) 

Superior  National  Forest,  45-48 
See  also  Arrowhead  Tours;  Canoe 

Trips;      Cities,      Towns      and 

Villages 
Canada,  6,  7,  8,  9,  10,  25,  29,  30,  31, 

116,    134,    135,    146,    167,    168, 

169,  176 

Canisteo  district,  84,  89,  97,  142 
Canoe   trips,   48-68,    128,    151,   167, 

184,  187 

Carlton,  19,  90-91 
Carlton  county,  3,  20,  90,  91,  95,  96, 

182 

Carlton  peak,  165 
Carlton,  Rueben  B.,  91 
Carver,  Johnathan,  42 
Cass  county,  3,  20,  39,  41,  157,  158, 

179 
Cass  Lake,  21,  41,  92-93,  157,  178, 

179 

Cass,  Lewis,  42,  92,  93,  125,  141 
Cave  of  Waves,  164 
Cavelier,  Robert,  see  La  Salle 
Chambers  Grove,  116 
Champlain,  Samuel  de,  29 
Chaudiere  falls,  135 
Chequamegon  bay,  5,  30 
Chester,  Albert  H.,  15 
Chippewa  City,  168 
Chippewa      National     Forest,     see 

Forests 

Chisholm,  93-95,  172 
Chisholm,  A.  M.,  94 
Chisholm,  Mrs.  Archibald,  no 
Chisholm    Improvement   Company, 

94 
Chouart,  Medard,  see  Groseilliers 

Chouteau,  Pierre,  Jr.,  and  Co.,  10 
Christmas  trees,  99,  175 
Churches,    see    Cities,    Towns   and 

Villages 
Civilian  Conservation  Corps,  46,  81, 

167,  176 

Clark  House,  105 
Clark,  Thomas,  14,  75 
Cloquet,  91,  95-97, 125, 143, 182, 188 


INDEX 


2I9 


Clubs,     see     Cities,     'Towns     and 

Villages 
Coast  Guard,  U.  S.,  in,  128,  153, 

162,  1 66 

Cohoe,  Capt.,  154 
"Colcaspi,"  see  Star  Island 
Cole,  Thomas  F.,  97 
Coleman  island,  51 
Coleraine,  85,  97-98,  142,  173 
Connors,  Henry,  148 
Connor's  point,  30 
Conservation  (fish  and  game),  47, 

123,    129, 
fish  hatcheries,  36,  47,  no,  162, 

176,  183 

game  refuges,  45,  47-48 
See  also  Hunting  &  Fishing 
Conservation    (forests),    39,    43-44, 
46-48,  79,  87,  92-93,  117,  128, 
1 66,  174 

experiment  stations  and  nurseries: 
Birch  Lake  Plantation,  186 
Eveleth  Nursery,  46 
Knife  River  Nursery,  46 
Lake   States   Forest   Exp.   Sta., 

179 
U.  S.  Government  (Cass  Lake), 

93 
University  of  Minn.  Exp.  Sta., 

96-97,  181-182 
See  also   Forest   service;    Ranger 

stations 

Conservation,    Minnesota,    Depart- 
ment of,  47 

See  also  Forestry  service,  Minne- 
sota 
Continental  Divide,  83,  94,  98,  154, 

172,  174,  175,  178 
Cook,  98-99,^175,  184,  186 
Cook  and  O'Brien  Company,  99 
Cook  county,  3,  19,  127,  128,  162 
Cooke,  Jay,  90,  105-106,  109,  119 
Cooperatives,  20,  83,  84,  96,  99,  100, 
122,    125,    140,    143,    147,    153, 
156,   174,   178,   1 80,   181 
Copper,  10,  n,  12,  162,  1 66,  176 
Corundum  mine,  164 
Cotton,  170 


Coureurs,  de  Bois,  6 

Creeks: 

Ada,  57;  Crow  (Prohibition), 
162;  Ge-be-on-e-quet,  64;  Ka- 
dunce  (Diarrhoea),  168;  Mil- 
ler's, 114;  Mission,  118;  Otter, 
182;  Pocket,  64;  Spring,  186; 
Tischer,  no 
See  also  Rivers 

Cromwell,  181 

Crooks,  Hester,  104 

Crooks,  Ramsay,  9,  104 

Crosby,  99-100,  136,  137,  181 

Crosby,  George  H.,  100,  138 

Cross  bay,  54 

Crow  Wing,  180 

Crow  Wing  county,  3,  20,    85-87, 
1 80,  181 

Crystal  bay,  164 

Culver,  Joshua  B.,  105,  106 

Curtain  falls,  51 

Cusson,  176 

Cuyuna  range,  see  Iron  ranges 


Dakotah,  see  Indians,  Sioux 

Darling,  John  H.,  118 

Daumont,  see  St.  Lusson 

Dawson  route,  134,  184 

Day,  John,  130 

Deering      Harvester      Company, 

146 

Deer  River,  26,  101-102,  174,  179 
Deerwood,  136,  181 
Devil's  Cascade  canyon,  66 
Dickson,  Gen.  James,  116 
Docks:  196 

coal,  114,  153,  193,  195 
ore,   12,  32,   114,   150,   152,    153, 

162,  194,  195 
Drama,  28,  95,  109,  133 
Du  Lhut,  Claude,  7 
Du  Lhut,  sieur  du,  6-8,  30,  71,  105, 

in,  116,  125,  180 
Duluth,  12,  13,  17,  19,  21,  102-119, 

150,  161,  70,  83 
Duluth  Ship  canal,  12,  33-35,   103, 

1 06 


220 

Duluth-Superior  harbor,  17,  23,  30, 
33-35>  103-106,  149,  150;  sta- 
tistics, 193-197 

Dworshak,  Lois,  27 

Eames,  H.  H.,  14 

Eames,  Richard,  14 

East  bay,  66 

Echo  trail,  see  Trails 

Education  and  Schools,  18,  20,  25, 

26-28,  141,  168 
Bemidji   State   Teachers   College, 

79>  178 
Crosby-Ironton     Junior     College, 

100,  181 

Duluth  Junior  College,  114 
Duluth    State    Teachers    College, 

108,  117 

Ely  Junior  College,   120 
Eveleth  Junior  College,  124 
Hibbing  Junior  College,  133 
Itasca  Junior  College  (Coleraine), 

98  ' 

North  Central  School  of  Agricul- 
ture, 130 

Villa  Sancta  Scholastica,  117 
Virginia  Junior  College,  156 
See     also     Cities,     Towns     and 
Villages 

Effie,  174 

Elbow  Falls,  148 

Ellingson,  Chris.  P.,  147 

Ely,  46,  119-121,  184,  187 

Ely-Buyck  trail,  see  Trails 

Ely,  Rev.  Edmund  F.,  71,  104,  116, 
181 

Ely-Finland  trail,  see  Trails 

Ely,  Samuel  P.,  120 

Embarrass,  121-122,  186 

Embarrass  township,  121 

Emeralite  Surfacing  Company,  187 

Enger  peak,  118 

Ensign,  Josiah  D.,  108 

Ericson,  David,  28,  133 

Esko,  182 

Esprit,  Pierre  d',  see  Radisson 

Eveleth,  17,  45,  122-124,  170 

Eveleth,  Erwin,  123 


INDEX 

Evergreen  Mining  Co.,  156,  181 
Exploration,  see  French 

Fernberg  Landing,  57,  184 
Fero,  34 
Festivals,  23-25 

See    also     Calendar    of    Events; 

Cities,  Towns,  Villages 
Finland,  46,  183 

Fishing,  see  Hunting  and  Fishing 
Fishing,    Commercial,    35-36,    127, 

128,  166,  194,  195 
Fish  hatcheries,  see  Conservation 
Flat  Mouth,  Chief,  43 
Flea  point  (Sugar  point),  43 
Flood  wood,  124,  172,  173,  174 
Flower,  state,  183 

See  also  General  Information,  xxi 
Flynn,  Sheriff,  91 
Folgero,  Capt.  Gerhard,  109 
Folklore,  23-24,  in,  114,  174,  176, 

179,  180 
Fond  du  Lac,  6,  10,  u,  27,  35,  71, 

91,  97,  104,  105,  116,  124,  187 
Forests: 
National: 

Chippewa,  39,  44,  79,  83,  92-93, 
101,  129,  157,  173,  174,  179 

Minnesota,  39,  79 

Superior,  3,   19,  39,  45-48,  74, 

120,  149,  157,  167,  183-187 
State: 

Bay  Lake,  87 

Blackduck,  83 

Crow  Wing,  87 

George  Washington,   172 

Kabetogama,  149 

Mille  Lacs,  87 

Pine  Island,  81 

Savanna,  140 
See  also  Conservation 
Forest  fires: 

1893   (Virginia),   155 
1918,  96,  143 
Forest  products,  78,  86,  96,  99,  101, 

129,  135,  178,  188,  192,  193,  194 
Forest  Service,  Minnesota,  87,  128, 

129,  170 


INDEX 


221 


Forest  Service,  U.  S.,  39,  40,  41,  45, 

46,  47,  92,  128,  167,  178,  184 
Fort  Charlotte,  169 
Fort  Garry  (Winnipeg),  135,  184 
Fort  Kaministiquia,  7 
Fort  St.  Louis,  30 
Fort  William,  7,  154,  169 
Foster,  Dr.  Thomas,  21,  105 
Franklin,   Benjamin,   10 
Fraser,  172 
Freeman,  D.  W.,  126 
French,  5-8,  12,  25,  29,  30,  31,  71, 

105,    116,    125,    127,    134,    135, 

166,  168,  176,  1 80 
French  River,  n,  162 
Friday  bay,  62 
Frontenac,  comte  de,  6 
Fur  trade,  6,  8-10,  30-31,  45,  127, 

134,  141,  148,  157,  159,  168 

Garland,  Judy,  28 
Garrison,  180 
Gemrnell,  178 

Geological  surveys,  14-18,  167 
Geology,  4-5,  39,  45,  161,  164 
Gheen,  Stephen,  148 
Gilbert,  125-127,  187 
Gilbert,  Cass,  113,  131,  133 
Gilbert,  Giles,  126 
Gilbert  Townsite  Company,  126 
Gitchi  Gummi,  23 
See    also    Kitchi    Gummi,    Lake 

Superior 

Giwedin  (Keewatin),  137 
Godfrey,  H.,  127 
Gold,  10,  12,  151,  176 
Golf  courses,  see  Cities,  Towns  and 

Villages 
Goodland,  174 
Goose  island,  43 
Govednik,  Anne,  27 
Grand    Marais,    47,    127-128,    166, 

167;  harbor  statistics,  193,  195 
Grand  Portage,  9,  30-31,  35,  75,  76, 

127,  164,  1 66,  1 68 
Grand  Portage  bay,  168 
Grand  Rapids,  20,  72,  84,  101,  128- 

130,  146,  173,  174 


Grant  (Mountain  Iron),  145 

Great  Britain,  see  British 

Great  Lakes-St.  Lawrence  Seaway, 

107 

Great  Scott  township,  139 
Greenway,  John,  97 
Greysolon,  Daniel,  see  du  Lhut 
Groseilliers,  sieur  de,  5,  8,  71 
Gull  island,  165 
Gunflint,  167 
Gunflint  trail,  see  Trails 

Hanchett,  Dr.  Augustus,  14 

Hanna  Ore  Company,  137 

Hanson,  H.  C.,  74 

Haroldson,  Anne,  27 

Harriot,  Elinor,  28 

Hart,  Irving  H.,  141 

Harwood,  Charles  D.,  95 

Hassman,  181 

Hawkins,  E.  B.,  138 

Hay  fever,  76 

Heldner,  Knute,  28 

Hennepin,  Father  Louis,  7,  180 

Henry,  Alexander,  30 

Hibbard,  J.  J.,  12,  152 

Hibbing,  18,  21,  130-134,  172 

Hibbing,  Frank,  94,  131 

Hill,  Carrie  P.,  136 

Hill,  James  J.,  146 

Hill,  John,  136 

Holyoke,  91 

Homestead  Project,  Duluth,   170 

Hovland,  168 

Howenstine,  Sam,  127 

Hubbard  county,  3 

Hubert,  86 

Hudson's  Bay  Company,  6,  8,  10, 

45,  135,  184 

Humphrey,  Alfred  E.,  154 
Hunting  and  Fishing: 

Under     "General     Information," 

xviii-xxi 

Illgen  City,  164,  183 

Illgen  falls,  183 

Indians,  5,  21,  23,  24,  29,  31,  40,  49, 

51,  in,  148,  164,  166,  167,  169, 

178,  179,  184,  186 


222 


INDEX 


Indian  agencies: 

Consolidated    Chippewa,    26,   93, 
148,  175,  180,  187 

Leech  Lake,  43 

Onigum,  179,  180 

Red  Lake,  178 

Indian  mounds,  125,  174,  180 
Indian  reservations: 

Bois  Fort,  152  (see  Nett  Lake) 

Cass  Lake,  26,  157 

Fond   du   Lac,   26,   93,   97,   181, 

i87 

Grand  Portage,  26,  93,  168 
Leech  Lake,  178 
Nett  Lake,  26,  93,  148,  152,  175 
Red  Lake,  178 
Vermilion,  26,  93,  151,  187 
Indian  tribes: 

Chippewa   (Ojibway),  5,  23,  26, 

43>  71*  76>  77>  79>  8o>  8l>  9°>  92» 

93,  99,  115,  116,  125,  137,  140- 

141,   151,   152,   165,   166,   168, 

174,  178,  179,  1 80 

Pillager  (Chippewa),  43,  179,  180 

Sioux  (Dakotah),  5,  7,  23,  31,  71, 

115,  125,  140,  174,  180 
Industrial  statistics,  191 
Ingersoll,  William  P.,  141 
Inger  road,  174 
International    boundary,    10,    49-51, 

161,  168,  169,  176,  186 
See  also  Border  patrol 
International  Falls,  21,  134-135,  140, 

J47>  J75>  T76 
International  Lumber  Company,  135 

Interstate  Iron  Company,  156 
Iron  ore  and  mining,  14-18,  21,  25, 
73,  82,  84v  87,  88,  94,  97,  98, 

IOO,     I2O,     123,     126,     130,     132, 

133,  136,  137-139,  M2>  I44-X45> 
146,  151,  152,  153,  154-156,  167, 
176,  181,  184,  187 
See  also  Mines 

Iron  ore,  beneficiation  of,  17;  plants, 
89,  90,  97,  136,  138,  142,  146, 

I73>  lgl 

Iron  ore,  taxation  of,  18,  139 
Iron  products,  115 


Iron  ranges,  14-18 

Cuyuna,  16-18,  86,  100,  136,  175, 
181 

Gunflint,  167 

Mesabi,  15-18,  26,  73,  81-82,  84, 
87,  88,  94,  TOO,  107,  118,  123, 
126,  129,  144,  145,  146,  153, 

!54>  ei55»  I7°>  l83>  l87 
Vermilion,  14-16,  26,  73,  82,  100, 

106,  107,  118,  131,  133,  151, 
152,  153,  183,  184,  187 

Ironton,   136-137,   181 

Isabella,  183 

Island  Lake  Lumber  Company,  147 

Isle  Encampment,  35 

Isle  Royale,  5,  10,  35,  166,  168 

Itasca  City  (Deer  River),  101 

Itasca  county,  3,  20,  39,  41,  101,  129, 
146 

Itasca  Lumber  Company,  101 

Itasca  Mining  Co.,  146 

Izatys,  see  Kathio 

Jackfish  bay,  61 
Jacobson,  146 
Jaques,  Florence,  28 
Jaques,  Francis  Lee,  28 
Jasper  peak,  151,  187 
Jefferson,  Robert,   104 
Jesuit  Relations,  42,  166 
Jogues,  Father  Isaac,  29 
Johnson,  Eastman,  113 
Johnstone,  Rev.  J.  L.,  153 
Jollier.,  Louis,  6,  42 
Joyce's  Landing,  99 

Kaministiquia  route,  30,  134 
Kathio,  Battle  of,  71,  1 80 
Keating,  William  H.,  42 
Keewatin,  137-138,  173 
Kenora  (Rat  Portage),  148 
Kent,  Florence,  123 
King  William  narrows,  51 
Kinney,  88,  138-139,  172 
Kinney,  O.  D.,  138 
Kitchi  Gummi,  29,  162 

See  also  Gitchi  Gummi,  Lake 
Superior 


INDEX 

Knife  Falls,  95 

see  Cloquet 
Knife  River,  162 
Knott,  J.  Proctor,  149,  150 
Komoko,  90 
Koochiching    county,   3,    134,    140, 

M7 

Labor,  106-197 

Lachmund,  Ernest,  28 

Lac  la  Pluie  (Rainy  Lake),  176 

Lake  county,  3,  75,  152,  153,  162 

Lakes: 

Ada,  57;  Agamok,  55;  Agassiz,  4, 
20,  175;  Agnes,  63,  64;  Ahma- 
kose,  54,  65;  Alder,  52;  Aldon, 
56;  Alice,  58;  Alpine,  54,  55; 
Bald  Eagle,  59;  Ball  Club,  39; 
Bass,  64;  Basswood,  51,  60,  61; 
Bear,  54,  56;  Bemidji,  41,  77- 
78,  79;  Beth,  56;  Big,  62,  186; 
Big  Hanging  Horn,  75,  182; 
Big  Knife,  50;  Big  Rice,  39; 
Big  Saganaga,  55,  167;  Big 
Sandy,  71,  125,  140,  141,  181; 
Big  Sletten,  61;  Birch,  16,  50, 

60,  64,  184,  186;  Blackduck,  83, 
178;  Bonnie,  65;  Boot,  61;  Bot- 
tle, 51;  Bowstring,  39;  Boy,  39; 
Brule,  53;  Buck,  66;  Burntside, 

61,  62,  63,  65,  66,  67,  186,  187; 
Canoe,   52;   Cap,   54;   Caribou, 
41,  53;   Carp,  50,  64;   Carson, 
131;  Cass,  39,  40,  41,  42,  43,  78, 
92,   93,   178,   179;   Cedar,   181; 
Cedar    Island,    126;    Cherokee, 
48>  53>  56>  57;  Chippewa,  61; 
Clear,      60;      Clear  water,      52; 
Colby,    74;     Copper,    54,    56; 
Cove,  50;  Crab,  63,  66,  67,  167; 
Crane,   51,   68,    186;    Crooked, 
51,  54,   56",   61,   62;   Cut  Foot 
Sioux,  39,  41,  174;  Cross  Bay, 
56;    Crystal,    129;    Cummings, 
63,    67;    Cypress,    50;    Daniels, 
50,   52;   Deer,    101;    Dora,   41; 
Duck,  51;  Duluth,  3,  119,  182; 
Dumbell,  46;  Duncan,  50,  52; 


223 

Lakes  {Continued) 

East  Bearskin,  52,  167;  East 
Pike,  50,  52;  East  Twin,  61; 
Echo,  1 86;  Eddy,  54;  Elk,  92; 
Elton,  54,  56;  Embarrass,  82; 
Ensign,  64;  Esquagma,  74,  82, 
187;  Eugene,  66;  Everett,  47, 
61;  Fairy,  61;  Fall,  60,  184; 
Farm,  59;  Farm  Island,  180; 
Fenske,  61,  186;  Flour,  52,  167; 
Fly,  64;  Four,  58;  Fourtown, 
61;  Frazer,  54,  65;  Gabbro,  59; 
Gabmichigami,  48,  55;  Gaskin, 
53;  Ge-be-on-e-quet,  64;  Ge- 
rund, 54,  65;  Glenmore,  66; 
Gneiss,  50;  Gordon,  53,  56; 
Grace,  56;  Grassy,  61;  Green, 
64;  Greenwood,  15;  Gun,  61, 
66,  141;  Gunflint,  50,  167;  Half 
Moon,  170;  Ham,  54;  Hazel, 
56;  Hegman,  186;  Henson,  53; 
Hoe,  54;  Horse,  61,  62;  Horse- 
shoe, 53;  Hub,  57;  Hudson,  58; 
Hug,  57;  Hungry  Jack,  52; 
Ima,  64;  Insula,  58;  Iron,  51, 
167;  Isabella,  59;  Island,  39, 
147;  Itasca,  43,  78,  92,  179; 
Jasper,  54;  Jeanette,  186;  John, 
49;  Jordan,  64;  Karl,  56;  Ka- 
vendeba,  56;  Kawasachong,  48, 
58;  Kawishiwi,  58;  Kekekabic, 
48,  54,  65;  Kelso,  57;  Kiska- 
dinna,  53;  Knife  (or  Big  Knife), 
50,  54,  65;  Koma,  56,  58;  Korb, 
63,  67;  Lac  La  Croix,  49,  51, 
63,  64,  66;  Lake  Thirteen,  40; 
Lake  of  the  Woods,  45,  80, 
148;  Ledge,  54;  Leech,  39,  40, 
43,  116,  157,  179,  180;  Lily,  53; 
Little  Crab,  63,  66,  67;  Little 
Cut  Foot  Sioux,  174;  Little 
Gunflint,  50;  Little  John,  49; 
Little  Knife,  50;  Little  Moose, 
143;  Little  Saganaga,  54,  55,  56, 
57;  Little  Sagus,  54;  Little  Slet- 
ten, 61;  Little  Trout,  65;  Little 
Vermilion,  51;  Lizz,  53;  Loch 
Lomond,  169;  Long,  42;  Long 


224 

Lakes  (Continued) 

Island,  53,  56;  Longyear,  93; 
Loon,  51,  66,  167;  Lower 
Fairness,  66;  Lower  Red,  77, 
178;  Limnetta,  66;  McFarland, 
49,  52,  1 68;  Mabel,  40;  Mag- 
netic, 50;  Maniwaki,  48;  Mara- 
boeuf,  50;  Marsh,  64;  Meads, 
53;  Meander,  186;  Mesaba,  57; 
Mille  Lacs,  71,  72,  180;  Minne- 
wawa,  141;  Moose,  50,  63,  64, 
65,  143,  184;  Mora,  54,  56,  57; 
Mountain,  50;  Mud,  39;  Mu- 
kooda,  48;  Mulberg,  58;  Mulli- 
gan, 53;  Murphy,  61,  62;  Mus- 
keg, 53;  Nels,  186;  Nett,  148, 
175,  176;  Newfound,  64,  65; 
Newton,  60;  Niki,  61;  Nina 
Moose,  63;  North,  50;  North 
Temperance,  53;  Ogishkomun- 
cie,  54,  55;  One,  57,  58,  59,  184; 
Onega,  53;  Otter,  67;  Owl,  54, 
56;  Oyster,  64;  Pan,  56;  Pap- 
poose,  62;  Parent,  58;  Pelican, 
148,  175;  Phoebe,  56;  Pickle, 
65;  Pike,  170;  Pillsbery,  53; 
Pine,  52,  66;  Polly,  56,  58; 
Poplar,  52,  53,  167;  Portage, 
42;  Rainy  (Lac  la  Pluie),  12, 
80,  176,  1 86;  Range,  61;  Rat, 
50;  Rattle,  55;  Red,  78,  178; 
Red  Rock,  55;  Rib,  56;  Rice, 
141;  Rocky,  64;  Roe,  54;  Rog, 
54,  55;  Rose,  50;  Round,  39; 
Round  (Cross  River),  53,  167; 
Rove,  50;  Rugby,  41;  Saganaga, 
50;  St.  Mary's,  170;  Sand,  39; 
Sandpit,  61;  Sand  Point,  51; 
Sawbill,  46,  56,  57,  165; 
Schlamn,  66;  Sea  Gull,  54,  55, 
167;  Second,  186;  Seed,  50,  52; 
Serpent,  100, 136, 181;  Shagawa, 
48,  121;  Silver,  155;  Sitka,  53; 
Six  Mile,  40;  Skoop,  57;  Slim, 
62,  66;  Small,  53,  54;  Snip,  54, 
56;  South,  50,  66;  South  Tem- 
perance, 53;  Spirit,  115;  Spoon, 
65;  Square,  58;  Squaw,  39; 


I  NDE  X 

Lakes  (Continued) 

Steep,  66;  Strup,  54,  65;  Stuart, 
62;  Sturgeon,   172;  Sucker,  50, 

64,  65;  Swamp,  50;  Swamper, 
167;    T,    61;    Ten    Mile,    180; 
Thomas,    64,    65;    Three,    58; 
Townline,  58;  Trap,  53;  Trout, 

65,  66,  97,  98;  Turtle,  39;  Tus- 
carora,  54,  56;  Twin  Lakes,  47; 
Two,  58;   Upper  Pauness,  65; 
Upper   Red,    178;    Upper   Red 
Cedar   (See  Cass),  78;  V,  54; 
Vermilion,   12,   14,   15,  65,  67, 
98,  99,  105,  134,  151,  157,  1 86, 
187;  Wagosh,  61;   Watap,  50; 
West  Bearskin,  52,  167;  West- 
ern, 66;  West  Pike,  52;  West 
Twin,  61;  White  Iron  (or  Silver 
Rapids),  59,  60, 120, 184;  White- 
water, 74;  Winchell,  53;  Win- 
digo,   93;    Winnibigoshish,   39, 
41,  79,  80,  174,  179;  Wisini,  54, 
65;  Zenith,  57 

Lake    Superior    and    Puget    Sound 

Company,  85 
Lakewood,  161 
Lamb,  Agnes  I.,  136 
La  Pointe  (Madeline  Island),  5,  35, 

l6?. 

La  Prairie,  174 

La  Roque,  Rod,  28 

La  Salle,  sieur  de,  7 

Lathrop,  180 

Laurentian  Divide,  see  Continental 

Divide 

Lautischar,  Father  Lawrence,  178 
Leech  Lake  Land  Company,  157 
Leif  Eri\son  of  Bergen,  109 
LeMay,  Paul,  28 
Lenci,  Estelle,  28 
Libby,  181 
Libraries,    see    Cities,    Towns    and 

Villages 

Lighthouse,  112,  127,  153,  164,  166 
Lincoln  Park,  13 
Literature,  28 

Little  American  island,  176 
See  also  American  island 


I  NDEX 

Littlefork,  139-140,  176 

Little  Fork  valley,  98,  99 

Little  portage,  7 

Little  Vermilion  narrows,  51 

Lombardi,  Luigi,  28 

Long,  Stephen  H.,  42 

Longfellow,  H.  W.,  78 

Longyear,  E.  J.,  73 

Lookout  point,  119 

Loon  Dam  falls,  51 

Lowell,  Ed.,  72 

Lower  Bass  wood  falls,  51 

Lozway,  Henry,  141 

Luce,  Sidney,  34 

Lumbering,  12-14,  23-24,  40,  43-44, 

162,  175,  176,  182,  187,  193-195 
See    also     Conservation;     Forest 

products;    Cities,    Towns    and 

Villages 
Lutsen,  165 

McCargo's  Cove  (Isle  Royale),  166 

MacCrickart,  Odin,  3 

McDougall,  Capt.  Alexander,  32 

McGregor,  140-141,  181 

McLaughlin,  Dr.  John,  14 

McLean,  Robert  B.,  76 

Mac\inac  Register,  104 

Maddy,  C.  A.,  141 

Magnetic  rock,  164 

Magney,  C.  R.,  118 

Mahtowa,  182 

Makinen,  156 

Manganiferous  Iron  Company,  137 

Manitou  falls,  165 

Maple  sugar,  176 

Maplewood  farm,  144,  182 

Marble,  142,  173 

Marcell,  41 

Margie,  178 

Marquette,  Father  Jacques,  6,  42 

Maxon,  Bobby  and  Ruby,  27 

Mayhew,  Henry,  127 

Memmola,  Pasquale,  141 

Merritt  (village),  82 

Merritt  brothers,  31,  82,   100,   107, 

114,  118,  144,  145,  149,  154 
Merritt,  Cassius,  145 


225 

Merritt,  Leonidas,  16,  144,  145 

Merritt,  Rev.  Lucian  F.,  114 

Merritt-Rockefeller  controversy,  17 

Mesaba-Cliffs  Mining  Company,  142 

Mesaba  Station,  82 

Mesaba  Transportation  Co.,  132 

Mesabe  Granite  Company,  145 

Middle  falls,  169 

Militia,  see  National  Guard,  Naval 

Militia 

Miller,  Andreas  H.,  108 
Mineral  Center,  168 
Mines: 

Adams-Spruce,  123,  170;  Alstead, 
137;  Armour  No.  i,  137; 
Beaver,  164;  Bennett,  137,  138, 
173;  Billings,  172;  Biwabik,  82; 
Bray,  137;  Breitung  (Soudan), 
15,  16;  Burt-Pool,  131;  Canis- 
teo,  84,  97,  173;  Cincinnati,  82; 
Crosby,  146;  Danube,  84,  173; 
Evergreen,  100,  137,  181;  Fayal, 
17;  Genoa,  126;  Godfrey,  94, 
172;  Grant,  88;  Hale,  82;  Harri- 
son, 84;  Hawkins,  146,  173; 
Headley,  146;  Hill,  89,  142; 
Hill- Annex,  18,  89,  142,  173; 
Hill-Trumbull,  142,  173;  Hoi- 
man -Cliffs,  173;  Hull-Rust- 
Mahoning,  130,  132,  172;  Ka- 
nawha,  82;  Kennedy,  16;  Kin- 
ney,  138,  172;  La  Rue,  146, 
173;  Leonidas,  18,  123,  170; 
Louise,  137;  McKinley,  126; 
Mahnomen,  137;  Mahoning, 
130,  131;  Meadow,  73;  Mesabi 
Chief,  1 8,  137,  173;  Missabe 
Mountain,  18,  154,  156,  172, 
187;  Mississippi,  137;  Missis- 
sippi No.  2,  137,  173;  Mountain 
Iron,  145,  149,  172;  Orwell,  84; 
Paulson,  167;  Pennington,  136; 
Pioneer,  120,  184;  Sagamore, 
136;  St.  Paul,  137,  173;  Sar- 
gent, 138,  173;  Shenango,  94, 
172;  Sibley,  120,  184;  Soudan 
(Breitung),  16,  151,  187;  South 
Chandler,  120;  Wabigon,  88, 


226 


INDEX 


Mines  (Continued) 

172;      Wacootah,      145,      172; 
Zenith,   120,   184 

Mines,  U.  S.  Bureau  of,  18 

Mining,  see  Iron  ore  and  mining; 
Copper;  Gold;  Silver 

Minneapolis  Cedar  and  Lumber 
Company,  83 

Minnesota  &  Ontario  Paper  Com- 
pany, 135 

Minnesota   Iron  Mining  Company, 

T5'  I5I 
Minnesota  point,  7,  23,  34,  103,  104, 

in 

Minnesota  Point  Development  Pro- 
ject, in 

Minong  (Isle  Royale),  166 

Missions  and  missionaries,  see  Re- 
ligion 

Mississippi  river,  7,  24,  39,  41-43, 
71,  77,  78,  85,  86,  92,  125,  129, 
132,  145,  174,  178,  180, 181, 182 

Mitchell,  Peter,  15 

Mizpah,  178 

Montezuma,  n 

Moose  Lake,  143-144,  182 

Moose  Lake  State  Hospital,  144,  182 

Morgan  Park,  115 

Morrison,  Allan,  43,  141 

Morrison,  William,  42-43,  141 

Mountain  Iron,  126,  144-145,  156, 
172 

Mount  McKay,  169 

Mount  Mary  lookout,  164 

Museums,  81,  97,  no,  113,  135,  158, 
168,  176,  179,  180 

Music,  28,  73,  94,  95,  108,  109,  110, 
139,  156 

Nashwauk,  138,  146-147,  173 

Nashwauk  Townsite  Company,  146 

Nationality  groups,  see  Racial  ele- 
ments 

National  Guard,  armories,  100,  109, 
178,  181 

Naval  Militia,  Minnesota,  109 

Navy,  U.  S.,  35,  111 

Naval  Reserve,  U.  S.,  109 


Nelson,  C.  N.,  Lumber  Company, 

125 
Nett  Lake,  26,  175 

See  also  Lakes 
Netdeton,  George,  104 
New,  Jean  W.,  125 
New  France,  see  Canada 
Newspapers,  21;  list  of,  22 

See     also,     Cities,     Towns     and 

Villages 

Newton,  William  H.,  75 
Nichols,  1 80 
Nichols,  J.  A.,  145 
Nicollet,  Joseph  N.,  43,  141,  179 
Niles  bay,  67 
Nopeming,  182 
Northern  Pacific  Junction,  91 
North  Ribbing,   132,   133 
Northland  Greyhound  Lines,  19 
North  narrows,  43 
Northome,  147,  174,  178 
Northwest  Company,  8,  30,  43,  45, 

92,  141,  168,  179,  181 
Norwood,  J.  G.,  167 
Noue,  sieur  de  la,  30,  134 
Noyon,  Jacques  de,  7,  30,  134 

Observatory  (Darling),  118 
Ochagach,  8 
Ogemagua,  85 

Ojibway,  see  Indians,  Chippewa 
Olcott,  Fanny  Bailey,  170 
Olcott,  W.  J.,  170 
Oldenburg,  Henry,  119 
Oliver,  Bill,  74 

Oliver  Iron  Mining  Company,  84,  89, 
97,  121,  126,  132,  133,  142,  156 
O'Neil's  point,  93 
Oneota,  12,  31,  104,  105,  149 
Onigum,  179,  180 
Ontonagon  (Mich.)  Syndicate,  15 
Orr,  148-149,  176,  186 
Orr,  William,  148 
Osfy-odena,  85 
Otter  Tail  point,  43,  179 
Owens,  D.  D.,  167 
Ozawindib,  Chief,  42,  93 
See  also  Yellow  Head 


INDEX 

Pace,  Merna,  28 

Painting    and    Sculpture,    28,    190, 

no,  133 

Palisade  head,  164 
Palo,  156 

Panic  (1837),  9-10;  (1857),  34,  105, 
J52;    (1873),   106;   (1893),   17, 
107,  123,  131 
Parks: 

Cascade  Park,  166 

Gooseberry  Falls  State  Park,  164 

Isle  Royale  National  Park,  166 

Itasca  State  Park,  41 

Jay   Cooke   State   Park,   91,    119, 

182 

Lake  Bemidji  State  Park,  79 
Scenic   State   Park,    85,   98,    129, 


. 
See     also,     Cities,     Towns     and 

Villages 

Park  point,  see  Minnesota  point 
Park  Rapids,  157 
Paulson,  -  ,  167 
Peet,  Rev.  James,  n 
Pembina  trail,  see  Trails 
Pequot  Lakes,  180 
Perrault,  Jean  Baptiste,  30,  92,  125 
Perrott,  Nicolas,  6 
Peyla,  187 
Picture  rocks,  Indian,  49,  51,   176, 

1  86 
Pierz,  Father  Francis  X.,  168,  178, 

179,  180 

Pigeon  point,  10 
Pigeon  River,  135,  169 

See  also  Rivers 
Pigeon  river,  falls  of,  168 
Pike  bay   (Cass  lake),  40,  42,  43, 

179 

Pike  bay  (Vermilion  lake),  152,  187 
Pike,  Lieut.  Zebulon  M.,  9,  42-43, 

93,  141,  179 

Pillagers,  see  Indians  (Chippewa) 
Pine  Island,  65 
Pine  point,  179 
Pipestone  bay,  60 
Pitt  Iron  Company,  126 
Point  of  Rocks,  113 


227 

Ponemah,  78,  178 

Port  Arthur,  135,  154,  161,  166,  167, 

169,  184 

Portland,  21,  105 
Potter,  Warren,  129 
Pottery,  Blackduck  Indian,  178 
Pottery    Company,    Nemadji    Tile 

and,  144,  182 

Powers  Improvement  Company,  89 
Prairie  portage,  50 
Premo,  G.  E.,  136 
Press,  see  Newspapers 
Proctor,  149-150,  174 
Proctorknott,  see  Proctor 

Quarries,  99,  120,  145,  172,  187 
Quetico  Provincial  Park,  45 
Quick,  Birney,  28 

Racial  elements,  12-13,  25-26 
Anglo-Saxons,  25 
Austrians,  25 
Canadians,  25,  153,  167 
Czecho-Slovaks,  25,  138 
Danes,  25,   153 
Finns,  13,  21,  24,  25,  94,  98,  107, 

I2I-I22,   138,   143,   156,   l82 

French-Canadians,  24,  25,  31,  107 

Germans,  13,  72,  75,  107 

Greeks,  25,  131 

Irish,  13,  25 

Italians,  24-25,  88,  94,  107 

Jugo-Slavs,  24-25,  94,  107 

Montenegrins,  131 

Negroes,  107 

Norwegians,  24,  25,  153 

Poles,  24-25,  88,  107 

Rumanians,  25 

Russians,    25 

Scandinavians,  13,  24,  88,  98,  107, 

J43 

Serbs,  25 

Scotch,  12,  24,  25 

Slavs,  13,  121 

Swiss,  25 

See  also  Indians 
Radio,  21 
Radisson,  sieur  de,  5,  8,  30,  71 


228 


INDEX 


Railroads,  see  Transportation 

Rainy  Lake  City,  176 

Rainy  river,  falls  of,  134 

Ramseyer,  Rev.  Henry,  113 

Randin,  Hugues,  6 

Ranger  stations,  41,  46-47,  81,  96, 
101,  140,  145,  149,  170,  176, 
179,  187 

Ranges,  see  Iron  ranges 

Ranier,  176 

Rat  Portage  (Kenora),  148 

Ray,  140 

Raymbault,  Father  Charles,  29 

Raymond,  Rev.  E.  N.,  155 

Rebecca  falls,  51 

Recreation,  25-28,  40-42,  45,  48 
See  also   Hunting  and  Fishing; 
Arrowhead  Tours;  Canoe  Trips; 
Cities,  Towns  and  Villages 

Red  Lake,  178 
See  also  Lakes 

Red  Lake  narrows,  178 

Religion,  113,  131,  155,  178 

missionaries,  6,  7,  n,  21,  29,  42, 
43,  71,  104,  105,  116,  141,  165, 
1 66,  178,  179,  1 80,  181 
missions,  21,  43,  71,  104,  116,  141, 

168,  178,  179,  180,  181 
See     also     Cities ,     Towns     and 
Villages 

Remer,  40,  41 

Republic  Iron  &  Steel  Company, 
138,  156 

Resettlement  Administration,  U.  S., 
170 

Rest  point,  182 

Rice,  Orrin  W.,  105 

Rice's  point,  13,  30,  34 

Riel  Rebellion,  184 

Rivers: 

Arrowhead  (Brule),  168;  Bap- 
tism, 183;  Basswood,  51,  62; 
Beaver,  75,  76;  Big  Fork,  39, 
80,  81,  134,  140,  173;  Black- 
duck,  83;  Boulder,  63;  Bow- 
string, 174;  Brule,  1 68;  Cascade, 
1 66;  Cherokee,  57;  Chippewa, 
61;  Cloquet,  170,  187;  Cross, 


Rivers  (Continued) 

165;  Cross,  53,  54;  Dahlgren, 
62;  Dead,  61;  Deer  (Pine),  — ; 
Deer,  101;  East  Savanna,  125, 
141;  East  Two,  151;  Elbow, 
148;  Embarrass,  81,  82,  121; 
Encampment,  162;  Flood  wood, 
124,  173;  Gooseberry,  164; 
Grace,  56;  Granite,  50;  Horse, 
62;  Hub,  57;  Isabella,  59;  Ka- 
ministiquia,  30, 134;  Kawishiwi, 
56,  183;  Kelso,  57;  Knife,  50, 
162;  Korb,  63,  67;  Little  Fork, 
81,  134,  139,  140,  148;  Little 
Indian  Sioux,  65,  66,  67,  186; 
Little  Isabella,  46;  Long  Island, 
53,  56;  Loon,  51;  Lunnetta,  66; 
Manitou,  164;  Moose,  63;  Moose 
Horn,  74;  Nina  Moose,  63; 
North  Brule,  167;  North  Ka- 
wishiwi, 58,  59,  60;  Onion,  165; 
Oyster,  64;  Parent,  58,  59;  Peli- 
can, 148;  Phoebe,  56;  Pigeon,  9, 
30,  127,  135,  161,  1 68,  169; 
Pocket,  64;  Poplar,  46,  165; 
Portage,  186;  Rainy,  39,  45,  134, 
135,  139,  142,  148,  172;  Range, 
61;  Red  Cedar,  92;  Reservation, 
1 68;  Ripple,  71;  Rum,  180;  St. 
Croix,  7,  149;  St.  Louis,  27, 
33,  71,  90,  95,  103,  1 08,  115, 
118,  119,  124,  140,  141,  174, 
182;  Sandy,  141,  181;  Savanna, 
124;  Sea  Gull,  55;  South  Brule, 
167;  South  Kawishiwi,  46,  59, 
60,  184;  Split  Rock,  164;  Stuart, 
62;  Sturgeon,  80,  81;  Sucker, 
ii ;  Swan,  146;  Temperance, 
165;  Thomas,  64;  Turtle,  61; 
Two  Rivers,  14;  Two  Island, 
165;  Vermilion,  67,  186;  West 
Savanna,  125,  141;  West  Two, 
145;  White  Iron,  60;  Willow, 
148 

Riverside,  115 

Robb,  J.  A.,  126 

Robutel,  Zacherie,  see  sieur   de   la 
Noue 


INDEX 

Rock  Harbor  (Isle  Royale),  166 
Ronde,  Louis  Denis  de  la,  31 
Roseau,  135 

Rosenkranz,  Charles,  88 
Roussain,  Francis,  116,  119 

Saginaw,  174,  187 

Sah-Ga-Ee-Gum-Wah-Ma-Mah-Nee, 
(Vermilion  Lake),  151 

St.  Louis  bay,  13,  27,  103,  114,  161 

St.  Louis  county,  3,  20,  75,  96,  104, 
113,  121,  125,  133,  187 

St.  Lusson,  sieur  de,  6 

St.  Paul,  19,  135 

Sandy  point,  121 

Sanitoriums   (tubercular),   179,  181 

Sargent,  George  B.,  104 

Sault  Ste.  Marie,  5,  6,  7,  19,  33 

Sauna,  122,  182 

Saunders,  ,  148 

Savanna  portage,  71,  125,  141 

Sawbill  road,  46 

Sawtooth  range,  3,  165 

Sawyer,  181 

Saxton,  Thomas,  152 

Scanlon,  182,  188 

Schley,  179 

Schley,  Winfield  Scott,  179 

Schoolcraft,  Henry  R.,  41-43,  92,  93, 
104,  125,  141,  179 

Schools,  see  Education  and  Schools 

Scouts,  Boy,  41,  141 

Scouts,  Girl,  41,  170 

Schroeder,  165 

Scott  highway,  161 

Sculpture,  see  Painting  and  Sculp- 
ture 

Seven   Iron   Men    (de   Kruif),    17, 

145 

Sharon  Ore  Company,  88 
Shaw,  Dr.  A.  W.,  88 
Sherwood,  Capt.,  34 
Shortiss  island,  51 
Shrady,  Henry  M.,  109 
Silver,  12,  166 
Silver  Creek  cliff,  162 
Silver  Islet  (Isle  Royale),  166 
Sioux,  see  Indians 


229 

Skyline  parkway,  103,  108,  117,  118, 

119 

Smith,  W.  J.,  126 
Snively,  Samuel  F.,  118 
Social  service,  27-28 
Soudan,  151,  187 
South  Slavonic  Catholic  Union,  121, 

184 

Sparta,  126 
Spicola,  Frank,  141 
Spirit  island  (Nett  Lake),  176 
Spirit  island  (Spirit  Lake),  115 
Split  Rock  lighthouse,  164 
Stairway  portage,  50 
Star  island,  40,  42,  78,  93,  178 
Stone,  George  C.,  15,  105 
Stoner  Lath  and  Lumber  Company, 

83 

Stony  Brook,  149 

Stuntz,  George  R.,  15,  100,  104,  109, 

112,  118,  133,  151 
Stuntz  township,  132,  133 
Sugar  point  (Flea  point),  Battle  of, 

43>  179 
Superior  (Lake  Superior),  5,  10,  14, 

19,  23,  26,  27,  29-36,  127,  161- 

169 

See  also  Duluth 
Superior  (Wis.),  19*  21,  23,  33-34, 

76,  103,  148,  149 
See  also  Duluth-Superior  harbor 
Superior  National  Forest,  see  Forests 
Sutherland,  Bob,  125 
Sutton,  David,  136 
Swan  River,  88,  132,  174 
Swan  River  Lumber  Company,  131- 

132 

Table  rock,  51 

Taconite,  173 

Talboys,  W.  E.,  94 

Talon,  Jean  Baptiste,  6 

Tourist    parks,    see    Campgrounds 

and  tourist  parks 
Tellier,  Jean  Baptiste,  104 
Tellier,  Marie  Josephe,  104 
Tentoni,  Rose,  28,  89 
Thompson,  David,  141 


23<> 

Thomson,  91,  95,  119 

Three  Spot,  153,  162 

Thunder  bay,  154,  169 

Tianna  Farms,  158,  179 

Tibbetts,  Nathaniel,  72 

Tofte,  46,  165 

Toivola,  156 

Topography,  3-5,  39,  161,  168 

Tower,  15,  19,  47,  82,  98,  99,  120, 

150,  152,  187 

Tower,  Charlemagne,   15,   151 
Trails: 

Arrowhead,  168 
Echo  (Ely-Buyck),  61,  62,  63,  65, 

184 

Ely-Finland,  183 
Grand  Portage,  9,  n,  168 
Gunflint,  128,  167 
Hudson's  Bay,  164 
Isabella,   183 
Magnetic  Rock,  167 
Minnesota    (Military   Road),    n, 

19,  90,  143 
Pembina,  77 
Red  Lake,  77 

Vermilion,  19,  82,  109,  151 
War  Road,  77 
Transportation: 
early,  9,  18-19 
air,  19,  20,  121 
bus,  19,  132 

railroads,  15-17,  19,  100,  106,  113, 
125,  128,  135,  145,  148,  149- 
150,  162 

Big  Fork  and  Northern,  80, 147 
Brainerd  and  Northern,  86, 158 
Duluth  and  Iron  Range,  15,  73, 

82,  120,  152 

Duluth,     Missabe     and     Iron 
Range,  12,  82,  114,  142,  149, 

i5<>»  153. 
Duluth,  Missabe  and  Northern, 

82,  84,  97,  142,  145,  149,  155 
Duluth    and    Winnipeg,     101, 

125,  129,  145,  149 
Duluth,  Winnipeg  and  Pacific 

(Canadian    National),     114, 

118,  176 


I  NDEX 

Transportation  (Continued) 

Great  Northern,  88,  91,  92,  101, 

129,  146,  158 
Lake  Superior  and  Mississippi, 

34,  90,  106,  143,  150 
Minneapolis,  St.  Paul  and  Sault 

Ste.  Marie,  92,  136,  143 
Minnesota     and     International, 

80,  86,  158,  1 80 
Northern  Pacific,  19,  72,  74,  80, 

85,  86,  90,  91,  106,  136,  141, 

143,  182 
Park  Rapids  and  Leech  Lake, 

157 

Port  Arthur,  Duluth  and  West- 
ern, 167 

St.  Croix  and  Bayfield,  150 
water: 

Great  Lakes,   19,  29,  36,   113, 

114,  127-128,  153,  169 
ships  and  ship  building,  31-33, 

76,  196-197 

tonnage,  31-33,  153,  193-195 
streams,  72,  135,  141,  151,  174 
See  also  Ore  docks;  Cities,  Towns 

and  Villages 
Treaty    of   Fond    du   Lac    (1826), 

116 
Treaty  of  La  Pointe  (1854),  n,  97, 

127,  162 

Treaty  of  Paris  (1783),  10 
Turner,  C.  A.  P.,  in 
Turtle  and   Snake  Indian   mound, 

J74 

Two  harbors,  17,  45,  76,  107,  151, 
152-154,  162,  164;  harbor  sta- 
tistics, 193,  195 

Typhoid  epidemic,  131 


U.  S.  Steel  Corporation,   112,   115, 

116,  132 

U.  S.  Weather  Bureau,  35 
Universal  Atlas  Cement  Company, 

115-116 
University  of  Minnesota,  18,  20,  118, 

130,  181,  182 
Upper  Bass  wood  falls,  51 


INDEX 


Vance,  Frank  L.,  101 

Varennes,  Pierre  Gaultier,  see  Ver- 

endrye 
Verendrye,  sieur  de  la,  8,  30,  134, 

168,  176 

Vermilion  Dam,  67,  186 
Vineland,  71 
Virginia,  21,  123,  131,  154-157,  172, 

175,  184,  186,  187 
Virginia  and  Rainy  Lake  Lumber 

Company,  13,  98,  148,  155,  176 
Virginia    Improvement    Company, 

J54 
Virginia  Lumber  Co.,  98 

See  also  Virginia  and  Rainy  Lake 

Lumber  Company 
Voyageurs,  9,  10,  31,  119,  134,  139 


Walker,  40,  41,  157-158,  179 
Walker  bay,  40 
Walker,  Thomas  B.,  157 
Washington  Harbor  (Isle  Royale), 

166 
Wass-we-win-ing    (Two    Harbors), 

152 
Webster-Ashburton   Treaty    (1842), 

168 
See  also  International  boundary 


West,  Leo,  72 
Weyerhaeuser  interests,  125 
Whalebacks,  32 

Wheeling  Steel  Corporation,  156 
Whipple,  John,  n 
Wieland  brothers,  12,  15,  75,  76 
Wieland,  Henry  P.,  14-15 
Wild  rice,  23,  45,  47,  101,  175 
Wilkinson,  Major  M.  C.,  43 
William,   Warren,   28 
Wilson,  Rev.  Joseph  G.,  105 
Winnipeg,  see  Fort  Garry 
Winton,  184 
Wolf  Junction,  155 
Workman,  David,  133 
Wright,  181 

Wright-Davis     Lumber    Company, 
146 

X  Y  Company,  9,  43 

Yellow  Head,  Chief  (Ozawindib), 

93 
YWCA  (Camp  Wanakiwin),  75 

Zappfe,  Carl,  86 
Zemple,  101 

Zenith   City  of  the   Unsalted   Sea, 
105 


The  Minnesota  Arrowhead  Assocktion,  Inc. 

The  Minnesota  Arrowhead  Association  in  1941  entered  its  eight- 
eenth year  as  the  major  agency  in  publicizing  the  natural  beauty  and 
the  recreational,  industrial,  and  agricultural  facilities  of  an  area  of 
approximately  20,000  square  miles  in  northeastern  Minnesota. 

In  1923,  the  late  James  H.  Harper,  then  President  of  the  Duluth 
Chamber  of  Commerce,  advocated  the  affiliation  of  commercial  clubs 
in  the  district  for  handling  problems  of  mutual  interest.  The  North- 
eastern Minnesota  Civic  and  Commercial  Association  was  formed, 
and  a  contest  was  held  to  choose  the  most  appropriate  name  for  the 
region.  Thirty  thousand  names  were  submitted.  A  glance  at  the  map 
will  show  the  reason  for  the  final  choice — "The  Minnesota  Arrow- 
head Country." 

Thousands,  seeking  the  joy  of  recreation  in  the  great  out-of-doors, 
come  each  year  to  the  Minnesota  Arrowhead.  The  peak  of  the  tourist 
influx  is  in  summer,  but  many  sportsmen  and  hikers  prefer  the  fall  of 
the  year,  and  many  others  are  attracted  to  the  region  for  winter  sports 
— skiing,  tobogganing,  skating,  and  other  diversions. 

The  following  have  succeeded  Mr.  Harper  as  President  of  the 
Association : 

Dr.  W.  A.  Coventry,  Duluth;  Alfred  Hoel,  Duluth;  Geo.  H. 
Crosby,  Duluth;  James  G.  Early,  Hibbing;  Willis  A.  Putman,  Duluth. 

The  present  officers  are: 

Hanford  F.  Cox,  Cloquet,  President. 

Henry  La  Liberte,  Duluth,  Vice  President. 

Geo.  H.  Herreid,  Deer  River,  Vice  President. 

H.  C.  Matzke,  Duluth,  Treasurer. 

S.  Valentine  Saxby,  Duluth,  Executive  Secretary. 

The  Executive  Committee  also  includes: 

M.  H.  Brickley,  Two  Harbors;  C.  E.  Carlson,  Duluth;  R.  T.  Hart, 
Moose  Lake;  M.  L.  Hibbard,  Duluth;  J.  H.  Jordan,  Duluth;  Thos.  M. 
Madden,  International  Falls;  Jacob  L.  Pete,  Ely;  A.  W.  Taylor, 
Duluth. 


Member  Organizations: 


Aitkin  Lions  Club 
Bemidji  Civic  and  Commercial  As- 
sociation 

Barnum  Commercial  Club 
Biwabik  Chamber  of  Commerce 
Bovey  Commercial  Club 
Buhl  Business  Men's  Club 
Carlton  Goodfellowship  Club 
Cass  Lake  Junior  Chamber  of 

Commerce 

Chisholm  Chamber  of  Commerce 
City  &  District  Development  Service, 

Port  Arthur,  Canada 
Cloquet  Commercial  Club 
Coleraine  Commercial  Club 
Cook  Civic  Club 
Crane  Lake  Commercial  Club 
Cuyuna  Range-Arrowhead  Club 
Deer  River  Junior  Chamber  of 

Commerce 

Duluth  Chamber  of  Commerce 
Duluth   Junior   Chamber   of   Com- 
merce 

Ely  Commercial  Club 
Eveleth  Chamber  of  Commerce 
Eveleth   Junior   Chamber  of   Com- 
merce 

Floodwood  Civic  Club 
Fort    Frances    Junior    Chamber    of 

Commerce,  Canada 
Fort  William  Civic  and  Tourist 
Bureau,  Canada 


Gilbert  Commercial  Club 
Grand  Rapids  Commercial  Club 
Grand  Marais  Commercial  Club 
Gunflint  Trail   Association,  Grand 

Marais 

Hibbing  Chamber  of  Commerce 
Hibbing  Junior  Chamber  of  Com- 
merce 

Hibbing  Village  Information  Bureau 
Hill  City  Commercial  Club 
International  Falls  Chamber  of 

Commerce 

Itasca  County  Resort  Operators 
Lake  County  Development  Associa- 
tion, Two  Harbors 
Lake  Vermilion  Resort  Association, 

Tower 

McGregor  Chamber  of  Commerce 
Meadowlands  Commercial  Club 
Moose  Lake  Commercial  Club 
North  Shore  Resort  Owners  Asso- 
ciation 

Orr-Arrowhead  Club 
St.  Louis  County  Club,  Gilbert 
Superior  Association  of  Commerce, 

Superior,  Wisconsin 
Tower  Commercial  Cluh 
Virginia  Chamber  of  Commerce 
West  Duluth  Business  Men's  Club 
West  End  Business  and  Civic  Club, 
Duluth 


The  Minnesota  Arrowhead  Association,  Hotel  Duluth,  Duluth, 
Minnesota,  is  ready,  throughout  the  year  to  assist  visitors  and  others 
interested  in  this  region  with  all  the  information  available. 


S.  VALENTINE  SAXBY 

Executive  Secretary 


MINNESOTA  AB 


FORT  FRANCES 


53       SUPEB 
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