r our
ig de-
Nikko.
ir new
1 gave
rained
aining,
e were
couple
about
s amid
omeria
IS Mrs.
clepto-i
nificent
When , _
it was
shoes
is CUS-.
too, so
Ik who,
ut here
calling,
eivable
ind un-‘__
variety .
neither
dubbed
I —
f whom ^ ■
)ugh to _
nrai toj
d some !
r. '
yo, and T
friend I
in the
,e Meiji^
college) I
»rted us p
. C. A.
yo is a i
t know,,!
nt, but
and a j
V broad
running!"
mber of i
with no-
!e story ^
ly. and
in the •
y I had ,
mizawa |
le mis- ‘
ge that
apanese
s asked
SfTrhcn we hastened back to Mr.
MOood’s to meet a bunch of mission-
»*rles, whom he had invited to tea,
Sand talk with them of their work.
Hand then back to Tokyo, to dine with
Hl)r. Nitobe at the MacXair’s. He iis
president of a government college tn
?Tokyo and a rare man. We spent
the whole evening with him, muc>; to
our edification and enlightenmeD^t in
things Japanese.
if. We left Tokyo Thursday mornintii
*fter a visit to the 'Meiji Gakuin (our’l
jpresbytehan college). We had re-
arranged our schedule so as to be
present at the opening exercises, but
alas! a misprint in the college cata-
logue misled us, and we were in-
formed that there would he no ex-
orcises till the day following. How-
■ever, we met Dr. Ibuka, the presi-
dent. looked over the campus and
Jmildlngs and some fine young chaps
iwho were playing baseball and ten-
[pis, and caught our train at 11:50
it m. After an interesting ride of
'nearly twelve hours, marred only by
■the fact that Fuji again hid his
gnowy peak in clouds, we reached
jlagoya, and were soon sleeping the
gleep of the just in the Nagoya Hotel.
The next morning we spent an hour
60 looking over the splendid old
tSeudal Castle, and then took train
'or Kyoito, arriving at 4 p. m., where
have been most cordially enter-
dned again by our friends, the Gor-
»lds, who had returned to their
e from Kamizawa. Yesterday I
in had the privilege of preach-
to a Japanese church and in the
uing at a preaching station to a
tong that reached away out into
street: — but this letter is too
g alread}’. ITl leave that for next
e.
.1 a Jap-
ith my
"he pas-
ev. Mr.
M
1
to his
>as the
■-.W-
liiB two
ed with
e mem-
every-
to that
sely. It
-
on with
English
were as
>
Central
tnlt and
tYOTO, JAPAN, TO SEOUL KOREA.
py of Letter From the Rev. Minot C.
Morgan.
Seoul, Korea,
Sept. 24, 1908
Pi thiuk I told you last of our Suu-
iay iu Kyoto, and of the rare privilege
rhich I had of preacbiug twice to the
ipanese through an interpreter, in
ae morning in the Japanese church
'which the Rev. Mr. Sasaki is pastor,
sd in the evening at a preaching
ktion. And what do you think, my
lorniug sermon is to be printed iu
lapanese in pamphlet form to be used
i the Japanese work in Kyoto and
erbaps elsewhere. Poor people, I
appose they must be short of
aaterial, but anyhow it is a pleasure
tlbiuk that I may be doing a little
^ork over iu Japan even after I get
ame.--
The preaching station, where we
went in the evening, is simply the
home of a Japanese evangelist iu a
thickly populated part of the city.
Hike most Japanese houses it is made
up almost exclusively of sliding
screens so that the whole front of the
house and two rooms deep may be
thrown open to the street. We were
in the inner room about two feet above
the street level, where a number 'of
Christians were squatting on the floor.
In the outer room were low benches
. on which an assemblage of all sorts of
[people were seated, and out iu the
j street, a dense throng, nearly blocking
]it, of passersby, moved mostly by
I curiosity to stop and listen. And how
I they did listen. After singing and
I scripture and prayer, father preached
Ito them fora half hour or so, and still
they stayed. I preached for another
half hour and still they stayed. Our
interpreter gave them a fifteen minute
talk and still they stayed. 1 don’t
really know how long they would
have stayed, if we had kept the meet-
ing going, but it was getting late, so
Mr. Gorbold distributed some tracts to
them and we went home at the close
of a glorious Sabbath day.
Early Monday morning, we went to
the “Roshisha,” the Congregational
College founded by Joseph Hardy
Neesima, attended the chapel service,
had a good look at that fine body of
Japanese boys and young men, met
Dr. Hasada, the Japanese D. D., who
is president of the institution, and
several of the faculty, went through
the buildings and then hastened by
jinrickshas to another part of the city
to see another phrase of the Christian
educational work, namely, the two
tine kindergartens of our Presbyterian
Board, which are under the leadership
of Mrs. R. P. Gorbold (a cousin of Dr.
IClelaud McAfee, of Brooklyn).
It was delightfully interesting to see
Ithose wee children, fifty or more iu
each school, as picturesquely dressed
as Japanese dolls, going through their
various games and mauoevres under
the guidance of Japanese teachers,
who seem to be ideal kindergarteners.
(Ask Miss Budd 8hafer, who is an ex-
i pert witness, if that is not true) . It is
an important work, not only because
of the Christian training which both
children and teachers receive, but be-
cause it gives these Christian workers
auentrieinto the homes of all these
children. I heard of several fathers
and mothers who had been led to
, Christ through this means,
j Well, I could keep on talking about
Kyoto for a long time, its castle and
I palace, its temples, its j>icturesque
I streets and people, its exquisite
I cloisonne and damascene and Satsuma
: pottery,; and cut velvet pictures and
! wonderful embroideries, but I must
I hasten on to Nara, where w'e spent
two interesting hours iu beautiful
parks full of tame deer that run
around loose and eat outof yoiirband^
not timidly but with rude bolduc
Kara like Nikko has many glorioiw
big cryptomeria trees, and lots of old
stone lanterns bordering the ap-
proaches to the temples, and a
Daibutsu (great image of Buddha)
huge and ugly and not half so im- —
pressive as the smaller one which we
saw at Kamakura
Then from Nara we liasteued on to — ^
Yamada. Yamada was not on our
original program but we wanted to go
there for two reasons. The lesser
reason was that the shrines of Ise
there are the center of Hhintoism for
all Japan. Here it was that the em
peror came to worship after the war.
The other reason which really de-
cided us, was that there is an interest- —
iug mission station of the Cumberland
churci) there, and now that we and
tlie Cumberlanders have united we
did not want to slight our Cumberland
friends.
Twentj’ years or so ago. Dr. and Mrs.
A. D. Hail w’ere stoned by the people
of YAmada on the streets, and after
tlrey entered their house stones were
thrown at them through the screens
and windows. Tuey kept these stones,
which now are iu the corner stone of
tiie new Japanese church iu which
the Japanese congregation with their
Japanese pastor worshipped for the
first time last iSuuday. What a"
ciiange iu the life and view point of
manj’ people this signifies, and what a
glorious reward of the heroism of
these faithful missionaries. The
station now consists of Rev. and Mrs.
W. F. Hereford (who with character-
istic missionary hospitality took us to
their Japanese home) and MissRiker, -
whom he had met at Karuizawa. —
That evening we gave the boys of :■
Mr. Hereford’s Bible class a little talk,
and the next daj’ went to the famous
Shinto Temiiles and to Futami by the
i seashore, and that afternoon by rail to
I Osaka, arriving at eight p. m. and be-
I iug cordially welcomed by the Rev.
1 Dr. D. A. Murray at the station. From
the train we went straight to a preach-
ing station and found a meeting
i .-rimiiav to the .'-umlay niirlit meeting
1 at Kyoto.
The ne.\t ilay we siieiit at (*saka.
j atlendimi (ii>l Mte Hiniiel i-erx iee ofJ
,I)r. Id umiv - Training .''Ciiool fori
j j'lva nrfel i>l.'', a M>rl id' t iieological 1
I .-seminary, then tlie line mi ls' scliool, a
i consolidation of ilie former I’reshy-
j terian ami f 'nmlierland .-'cliools. We
lal.so met several of llie Japanese
I )ia>tors of O.saka. ami in the evening a
1 L’dodly mimher ol missionaries, Metho-
idist, ('(/iitneeational and Freshyterian.
'I'ld-^ beside She ordinary round of
I sigld--eein«r. lemnles. jiatrodas, the
I ereale.'t hanmiii; liell in the world,
! weighing o\er lod tons Tn feet in
j heiiilit. •'>-1 in eireiimlerence and in-
; .-eriiied within and \^ itimiil with a
I multiUide of name- of .)U[)anese
soldiers who fell in the Jtn->iavi war,
etc., comjdeted our ilelightfnl stay at
Osaka. NVe were already a week be-^
hind our schetiule, we had luomised
H ^o Walter Erdujau to spend Sunday,
tlie2(>th; in Taiteii, Korea, and eio we
decided to omit Kobe and Kaga.xaki
and push on at once. We left Osaka
with Mrs, Winn of Dairen, and lier
daugliter, Mrs. Walter Krdman, on
Friday at_6.30 a. lu.. iiy rail, passed
tlirongh Kobe and Hirosiiima, and
had. a glorious view of that marvel of
beauty, the Japanese Inland Sea.
We reached Shimonoseki about 8 30
p. m. aud t)y ten o’clock were steam-
ing out of tlie harbor headed for
Korea.
'^This next moruing, Saturday, I wa<
on deck early to get mj' first view of
Korea, where sucli a wonderful work
of grace lias been in progress these
past few years, and sure enough there
were the dim outlines of lier mountains
just beginning to be visille in tiie
morning haze. We reached the dock
at Fusan about 9 a. m. in a terrific
downpour of rain, and found Waller
Krdman w'aitiug for ns. W e boarded
jinrickshas and w ere slowly jinlled m
the sludgy-s(iudgy mud to the station,
where we .saw the first broad <rauge
railroad since we left America, to-
gether with American cars aud Jlald-
win locomotives. Hunuh for us I
Fretiy soon you w ill be able to take
through sleepers from h iisan to Paris
via the Tras-8iberiau Jlailway.
After a most interesting talk with
my good friend, itev. Walter .Smith,
wdiom 1 knew in I’rinceion and who
is now a missionary at Fusan. wetook
the 10. oO a. in. train for TaiUu. and
bud lunch in the dining car. Just I
fancy that in Korea! Hut that does
not mean that tlie days of luxury Inne
arrived for the Kmean missionary as
you will ))resently see.
We reached 'I'aiUu at 1 )i. m.. our
baggage was put in ‘.jiggies’’ im the
backs of men and carried for altout a
mile to the Krdman’s Jiouse. the
ladies were carried in clutirs. tty
cooHies, aud the rest of us walked. A
“jiggy” by the w a.^ is a devi-e made
of a couple of ttig lot keti sticks ol'w ood
iuid .strapiied on the backs of men.
Hy means of it the Korean can carry
tremendous tiurdens. W hat :i wali-.
it was that we had through tliat
filthy tow n! 'Diere is no drainage, the
refuse of the city rots in the sun. tiie
little mud hou-e' will, liialciieil roofs;
|are jiacked lugeiiier will. lo. loom i.e-
|lween. Iso w omier t hey )nt\'e a per-
I (ect carnival .>( lypliiis and typlioi.l
I aiiU clnnera and sm illi'O.v and lunei-:
culosis and ma lai'ia. so far as geriH' i
ate coiicei iieti 'I'aikii i~, I suppose, one ;
of the most cosmopolitan places in the I
world. Seven heroic men, most (d '
them medical missiouaries, have al-:
ready .succumlied lo t.vrihiis, and iiav e j
died the martyr’s detiln a~ tinly as i
any early Clirisliaii who was cast in- |
i to tlie Homan arena. 1 vvo men in the i
ITaiku statinn alone have liad theii
j battle w itii typhus and won. One of
I them is m.y good Iriend and class-
I mate Piarry Hroeii, whose father was
i| the first pastor of our church, aud the
II other is Dr. Woodliiidge Jiduisoii, the j
medical missioiiar.v t)l' the station.
. tliougii it took Dr. .Johnson threeyeius
j m America to recovei ins health.
Tiiere are nt mock heroics ai.out |
those noble men and women al '1 ai kn.
2Sone of the ‘■now-walch-me-cio-the- 1
martyr-act” spirit for the benelii of the |
galleries. 'I'here is not u poseur lo Hiel
whoJe hunch. 'J'liey are as natural •
and nnaflecleu, as lull of lighthearted-
ness and wit, as though they were
living a carefree danger free, luxurion-
life with all tlieir liiends ahuut them
ill liapjiy America.
Weil, Waller Krdman look me
liii'ongh tlie city, down one little
narrow crooked iane and up another,
I pointing owl the sights, soniewlial
lollovvs: “Tiiis I- Fifth avenue, along [
I w hicii vv e are now gnmg. 1 1 ere is l’.Ii d '
istieeland Hroad w a v . 'I'his loftv one
I story hiiildiiig IS the tlalimn tiuildinc,
I etc.” nil all '1 aikii must have thouglil
jj had an atlatdv ol iivstencs. And
! what <jUeer ioid.lng peo)iic ate walk-,
' iiic tip and dowp iheseslieet' 'J'he j
I hoys w iib their bunded hair, von can i
j liHidl.v tell lidin Uie girls. W hen !
j they marr.v tliey liave tin iiriviiege ol '
I doing U|.' tneii bail in a lopivnoi . a ml
wear a tdack partly trails part nt lioisc-;
hair bat to luotecl it. It looks liseiij
rat-trap with the rat inside. It i.-. 1
shaped like an inverted flowei-pot j
with a straight brim: tindei it are [
black eyes, a ladt<l brown jnilty lilvei
face, and usually a moth-eaten beard. :
They wear flow ing w hite or approxi-|
malel.v while lobes. W'e saw some
fellows digging n p one of tlie streets,
and It was a funny sight. One fellow
holds the sjiade and two orfbnr others
inill on roiies fastened lo the lower
end of tlie handle. “'A .sim|ile de-
vice” as Mr. Adams of the mission i
says, ‘enabling live men to yio the!
work of one.” |
The missionaries’ houses are at the'
tO)i of a hill jusl lieyoud the i-ily , .
where now ihe.v can get a little fre-h !
air ami borne fort. I!ut ho’ several '
.years they had to live in native |
j houses ill tlie city. How they imssibly .
I endured it only love can expiaiii. 'I'lic
’work at'i'aiku is only ten years old.
J !\]r. Adams iHev. James K) and Dr.
j .Johnson (before mentioned were the
pioneers, and lor six year- not anoUiei
foreigner came throng b. Now plenty
L'.i Ibrougli as last a- they can on the
railroad, but don’t slop in llii', one of
tile dirtiest ol Korea's cities. i ,
; I
One ol the most thrilling meetings J
I have ever attended, was a meeting ol
the missionaries of Taikii .'sialioi.,
Saturday evening 'I'he liisiiopric of :
ttial station, so io speak, is about ITo I
miles long and 100 or so mile-s wivie. ' j
and the men go on itinerating trips to j
visit churches and groups of ",
Ohristians, sonietimes walking thirty
or forty’ miles a day in addition to
preaching and catecliizing. ami in-
cideniaily being away from their
families tor weeks ;it a time. Well, the ]
time had come when it was in their |j
jmigmenl necessary to open uj) a new P
-station at An Dong to tlie north.
How simply it will read someilay in a
missionary leport, ‘-one new station
opened,” and how little the average
reader will know of tlie lieroic self-
sacrifiee which made it |iossihle.*^t -
will mean the roughest, seamiest, .J
kind of pioneer work, unmeiitiouaiile- j,
discomfoi ts and ex)tosure: it will mean
a man’s separation from his family
toi' a year or more, most of the tnue,
and tlien taking them to tiial lemotej
lieUi where he lias made some sort of
a iiome for tliem, away from every-
l>ody and everything. That is what’it
Imeaiii when Mr. Adams and Dr.
Johnson opened up 'I'aikn ten years
ago. Hill at tliat meeling whicli'j at-
le.idet! last Saturday night. Mi.
Adam’s eyes fairly Nazed ( lie is one of
tlie most magnetic men J have ever
met as be said, “Oli I how I wisii I
could uml Mtake it, there is no joy in
Hie world like lieiug the first oi'ie to
tiring tlie gos(iel to (leojile that never
heard of it.” Hut Mr. Adams could
not tie sjiared from the Taikn cluirch
and tlie Academy. Walter lirdman
wanted to go Ijiit Dr. Johnson ab-
solutely forliade him because of his
condition of health. Hrtieu could not
he spated from the work he wasdoing.
Me Farlaiid was needed in the
-Academy, and fcawtell, a splendid big
Xehraskaii volunteered to go. He
had already talked it over with his
iiohle wife and they had agreed to-
gether to go wherever it seemed liest
to the Mission that -they should go.
They’ will have liardeliiiis but also the
inexpressiUe joy which Haul coveted,
of tniilding upon no other man’s
foimdution, hut being the first to
preach the gosjiel to tliose who liave
never heard. What a meeting it was,
ISO liaruKinions, so ruled b.y the sjiirit
\of love, so heroic in the truest sense.
Do you wonder that it set every lUire
of my manhood tingling, and filled
me with an almost uuconlrollatile
longing to say ‘‘J’ll go too.”
And now 1 must tell yon aliont oiir
l.Siinday at 'I'aikn. 1 have had a series
(of wonderliil Sundays ever since J
crok^-ed I lie I’acilic. J liave preached
once or twice every Sunday, hut the
Taiku congregation was the most re-
markable o) all. They iire building a
new cluiicli. but it’s not liuislied, so
lliey stil! meet in Ihe old one, wliicii
seat- five linndred sipiatting on the
lloui a- cio'C a- sardines. 'J’lie biiild-
in.g cannot i,o<sibly iiold the whole
coiiLMcgaiii.n al one time, so tiiev’ meet
in two sections. Fir>t the vvomeii
canu-at !i a. ni.. •iiHi strong, ami fattier
pieaclied lo Hieni. Mr. Aiiaiij' acting
as interpreter. 'J'lien at 10. iiO came tlie
men live hundred of then; inside, and
a nuinlier (lut'^ide, and .1 preached to
tiieni. Mr. ^\dam.s again acting as in-
terpreter. H Was an interesting sigljt
1 leiiyou, lu see those men in their
while Kiues. willi tbeir cjueer bhmk
hats lied under their ehiim. and just
as a tten 1 iv e as I bong h 1 w ere speak-
ing liieir own longue, i'lfter tiie set-
vice a lot of lliem cime forward to
greet u-. \\'aJter Jerdmaii now acting
a- interpretei said as eacli one vvould
come along, ••JJe says lie sees you for
the lii'.-i tune. Now you must how
and say you see him for the Hr.-t
lime. Fie sa.v.- !ii> nauie is Ha k a'lid
is very gralclui fur y’oui hav ing come
'Wh
|his,affWctioii
teilk avail
fis followed h
One caiimn
I people, so sin
l*so teachahlt
I earnest in tin
At five o’ci
■-service of j
le.'ltl
Jiultkli
-lUiilt-
mriu
muilh'
lime,'
emi'it'
Jill III .
every-,
lielil'
1 1)1.
families, win
veate
Monday n
jal-
academy’ aim
, Mr.
did histituti'
.me of
out with the
ever
tion and rer
-Kill
botli of then
IIT ill
adequate e(|U
iiielu
not far wroin
never
of no yilace
I'ould
can find lietl
iiiircli
for the Kin.
iliuaii
Oh, what
II all-
physician he
if 111!
of his peopl
d iiol
with a tuhen
iiiiiij;.
had carried i
tlie
his own liHcl
id liig
’son might
, He
*work is not <
li Ilk
these poor pe
•d lo-
to the ligh:
Tighteth ever,
ihe world.
t one w
Arriving here
lat a’-Jong slo
tnat next tim
ILET^RFROP
f /* Kore
Dairen, (Dal;
My last lei
our wauderii
delightfully 1
a town of t|
aud the ca
Hither it wt
the Hermi(
uaissiouaries
1884, aud her
aud disease
slowness of i
through the e
spoiled by tl;
the work it
laboring tod
number wh'l
course and re
- The very e
September 2|
tratiou of tlij
Obristiau m
Korea, for Dl
station, and ij
we were ente
in the city, t<!
feast in bono
Korean uurs
ing school of
head. In tw
two low tal
Korean doetc
lable
tour
•eries
ce I
died
lieir
le. ‘ It
uuiiebt
.•ualile
mean
iimiiy
time,
emoie
'ort of
every-
liHt it
I Dr.
veurs
1 at-
xMr.
one of
ever
• 1
oy III
>iie to
never
could
iiiircli
dmaii
II a li-
lt' iiici
fl not
ioiii^.
the
id big
. He
h his
d to-
liest
d go.
-o tlie
eted,
nan’s
St to
have
was,
spirit
ense.
libre
filled
• table
ir far to iinut; him tin^ gospe!
anifssasrf wliicn helped him very
P’liiiich. etc., elc. .And now ine Ivorean
Christnin lake.' iu> liand i;i lioih <d
his. an'ectionalel.\ .Miiiee/es u and pat'
it. teil.s aeain hi' sriMtiliKle and then
lolloped ny ain ther and mi ii eocs.
(Ine can not tint he (Ira u n to snch a
people, so .simide hearted and kindiy,
so teachable, and wlieii taught an
earnest in t iieir t 'lirist lan life.
At li\e o'clock we had an Knglisli
ser\ice of in issuinaries and theii
taniilies. w hich I was asked to add ress.
iMoiniay niornini: we vi'iied inc
HCadeniy and the hos)iital, two splen-
did institution.', canahle of wdikiiie
out with the church the tlalisfoiiiia-
tion and regeneration ol' 'i'aikn, tint
lioth ol them greati_\ in need of more
adeiiuate e(|Uipment. .fir. Adams w as
,j not iai w ronii when he said "I know
of no (dace w here t lie • 'll rist ia n man
can lind liettergilt edaed iineslinietiis
tlie Iviimdoiii than riLrlit iiere.”
Oh, what a hold llie t'iuistian
^ lihV'iciaii iiere can get upon tiie liearls
of Ills people. We saw a poor ho\
witli a 1 nlieicular an kle, whose faliiei
had carried him a liundred miles on
his own nark ill a Jiggy lliat Dr. .John-
son niiglit operate. llis splendid
worl. Is not only healing tne liodies of
tliese poor people hiit leading th
to the liL’iil. the true
lightelli every man
the world.
rAt one we left 'I'aikii for Seoul,
arriving Iiere at eiglit p. lu . tint Seoul
is a long story ami 1 will tell
that next lime.
i lor
em in-
iglii whi(jh
that eometii into
Votl
II LETTER FROM REV. MINOT C. MORGAN.
*? - I
/ Korea and Manchuria.
Dairen, (Dalny), INlauchuria, Sept. 30.
My last letter brought the story of
our wauderiuge as far as Seoul, aud a
delightfully iuterestiug city it is. It is
a town of about 300,000 iuhabitauts
aud the capital of the Empire.
Hither it was, to the very center of
I the Hermit Kingdom, that the
missionaries of our cburcli came iu
1884, aud here, uudismayed by danger
aud disease aud ojipositiou aud the
slowness of tlie work, they labored
through the early years, aud here un-
spoiled by tlie pheuomeual success of
the work iu later years they are
laboring today, except that goodly
number who liave finished their
course and received their crowu.
• The very evening that we arrived,
September 21, we were given illus-
tratiou of the many blessiugs which
Christian missious have brought to
Korea, for Dr. Hir-st who met us at the
station, a4id at whose hospitable home
we were entertained duriug our stay
in the city, took us at ouce to a Korean
feast iu honor of the capping of two
Korean uurses, by the nurses’ Iraiu-
iug school of which Miss Shields is the
head, lu two adjoiuiug rooms were
two low tables, a couple of youug
Korean doctors aud some of their male
assistants seated about cue, and the
uurses seated about the other. If you
could see, as I have seen, the un-
speakable disease- breeding fifth of
Korea, as it was aud is when un-
touched by Christian influence, you
would realize what an inestimable
boon to these poor people, this traiued
corps of doctors aud uurses will be.
Our heroic missionary doctors aud
nurses deserve high praise indeed for
turuiiig out such a product from the
apparently uupromisiug Korean lump,
for they have done their work deuovo.
But, for some strange reason, the
regeneration of the Korean’s heart
aud mind has nut reached his gusta-
tory nerve, otherwise lie never could
have gotten auy fun of that Korean
feast or any other of its kind, for ttie
Stull which is served up for food is
bad, inexcusably bad, ridiculously
bad, preposterously bad. My long
aud varied experience iu the Christian
ministry (before reacliiug bummit, of
course) has taught me the art of eat-
ing almost anything uuder tlie sun
for politeness sake aud “asKing no
questious for couscieuce sake,” hut
that Korean feast was my undoiug.
The vermicilli a la hair oil and rice a
la mud, were too much for me. M3’
iuuer organs as a unit, prououuced so
imperative a veto, that 1 saw it was
uo use, aud I grabbed a flue looking
peach aud begau eating it for that
seemed my 0UI3’ possibility of getting
into the game at all. The peach with
its f.Hir exterior was green as grass in-
side, but the fate of Johuie Jones aud
his sister, Sue, seemed far less terrible
thau taking another Korean mouth-
ful, so I munched away at my
emerald peach regardless of the
morrow, beiug convinced that suffi-
cieut uuto the day was the evil there-
of. 1 learned at the hospital that tlie
Sliafers were present at tlie last nurse
capping festivities at Seoul. I am
curious to know whether they also
had a feast of Korean dainties, aud
furthermore whether tlie medical
autiiorities of Seoul keep a few
embryonic nurses on tap for tlie
special delectation of emissaries of the
Central Presbyterian church of Sum-
mit.
The next morning, we went to
prayers iu the hospital, led b3’ a
Korean evangelist aud then insj'ected
the building, (tlie gift of that large-
hearted aud long-pursed Presb3’teriau
elder, Mr. Severance) and its work.
It filled us with enthusiasm. God
bless the doctors of Korea (and their
brethren iu a certain city, county of
Union, State of Kew Jersey, of wliich
I am ver3’ fond 1 for all their life sav-
ing aud health restoring aud disease
preventing labors of love.
Our next call was upon the Kev.
James S. Gale, D. D., author of the
“Vanguard” aud other books. He is
one of the Lord’s noblemen, big and
courageous, with a flue mind aud a
great heart. I was glad to find him
not only ttie beloved pastor of a great
host of Koreans, I nt the honored
friend of the foreign colony as well.
An American, by uo means a mission-
ary, whom I met in ManchuriaS^id of
him “Gale is all to the good.” He
spoke at a missiouar3’ dinner at the
Y. M. C. A. iu Summit ouce. Do you
remember him V 1 was captivated by
liim then, I love him now. Wednes-
day evening we attended jirayer
meeting iu his church. There were
six hundred present, aud this is only
one ol a numtier of churches in Seoul.
Six hundred, think of it, ruminate
about it, ask yourself what it means.
I will tell yon wbat it means. It
means that Christianity looms large
to these simple Koreans. It is the
wliole thing, and they know it. It
has brouglit them out of the bondage
of devil worship into the glorious
liberty of the sous of God. Their love
for Christ is the strongest impelling
power iu tlieir lives aud the services
of His cliurch are literally their chief
delight, and as they come, the whole
congregation comes, comes to prayer
meeting, comes to Huuday school,
comes to cliurcli twice on Sunday, aud
how they listen when they’ do come.
Fatlier aud I both preached to them
that Wednesday uiglit. Dr. Gale act-
ing as our interpreter, aud tlien a Jot
of them flocked about us to shake
hands, aud he introduced, aud tell us
they were glad to receive our message
aud were rejoicing in the truth.
An old elder iu that church, a
Korean, is one of the most remarkable
Chinese scliolars iu the Empire. To
Chinese and Koreans alike such learn-
ing carries witli it the highest social
distinction, but this old man counting
his social position hut loss, that he
may gain Christ, is now spending his
whole time as an expounder of
Christianity to the many who come
to ills house to inquire nrore pei-
fectly (toncerniug the way of life. He
led in prayer at the meeting, aud
though I could not understand his
words, I could not mistake tlie
fervency of liis voice.
Of the many interesting sights
which we saw in that city witii its
present intermingling of east and
west, of ancient aud modern, I liave
time to mention just one thing, aud
tha< is the Youug Men’s Christian
Association. I had a letter of intro-
duction from Mr. Andersen to Mr.
Frank M. Brockman, the secretary, a
*, ouuger brotlier of Mr. Fletcher
Brockman, whose captivating aud in-
spiring address on the “Literati of
China” many of you heard at the
annual Y. M. C. A.’diuuer a few years
ago, and he was especially attentive to
us duriug our stay iu Seoul. He took
us one morning to the cliapel service
of the Educational Department of the
Y. M. C. A. and I had the privilege of
addressing about one hundred aud
flfty’ flue, ambitious youug Koreans,
througb a Korean interpreter. The
splendid new building of tlie Y. M.
C. A., tbe gift of Mr. John Waua-
maker, is nearing completion. They
hope to enter it in December. Mean-
time they are doing their best iu Die
former abode of an ex-uobleman of
Korea. In spite of tbe fact that it is a
miserable ramsliackle oue-stor.y aflair,
• i
I <«a^ .KafCMM^
r*®lrti:^'«la
•;^3^«^er^->SranMiiti»*D
^ «04 ^alt;:; ^«ed
E^tel^ndifiirmfateM, -aud
Joue view Jtb*t «a»rvel of-
beaut^^tbe"* JapttVieBe* luljtud’ 8ea.
We/areMbed iSblmoDoeefai about ^.80
f>.%a4Mid 4»y jteo^«oiciook‘ ;<were<^«team-
fur
^ Tbiti^nS5f li^rtjrug/'^turil
S dti defcS3wf#Iy‘tb'get’ my ■fiivt'AMeV of
■Korea, wibereMMicii'A' wonderful ^work
of graoe iuk&ibeeu riu^progreee tliet<e
pa^tje^y^r^ aodaure euougb there
wereth^dim outlines of her mouutui tie'
just beginning to . be visit le in the
■moroingiiaze.i-i'Wie'reacbed the duck
att^usau abouti^ m. in -a territic
downpouTiof raiu^'ikndt^found M'alter
fi^dman waiting for us.' • AV« hoarded
jiuriekehas aud were slowly' polled in
thwsludgy-squdg^ mud to the statiou,
‘where^twe. saw the-4irst broad gauge
railroadi siucet iwer.'JeCt - Ainerioa. to-
gethenwlth dVmerican oars aud Bakl-
■wiuUooomotives./i lUurrah for ns’ u;* i ‘
1ZiPretty>soon:you.wiil he able to take
througli sleepers from Pusan to ^Baxis
^a)<tb«Tras^iberian .Hail way. /.
:^After a*.m08tififterSstiug talk with
myigoodifrieudy.Rev.nVValter Smith,
^^J'Wthom'd fcnew.in Ji^riucetouu and who,
nmowiaimissiouary atFusau, we took"
tte!fli0.30.’a;>m.t>ttrarn fur Taiku,i.and
ihadijluunbM>ui 'Jther dining, car.'-' Just
c^ey >thal:i«i<K<oreai!ii»jBut .that :<d6es
dpt mean that the daysof luxury have
tajcriVed foctbe; iKoreau xnissioirar^’ as .
you striill^reseutiyisee.; n ■
dj^^p>‘ireHChecL ^I'aikU'at l .p. nuv-our.
daggage jwas>"put Jml‘.‘jiggiesV.oii the ,
daaekam£ineii'i^d barrie<t for .about a'
(mUf ettr theu'-Flrdmau’s house/j.the
tladiesiowere -carriedc'Su ;.«hairs,>' by\
oooliies, and-lhe'icestof .us walked^■! A''
byjthe waj is a ■devise made
wftaiaouplis'of big lOiked. sticks ofsvood^
andistrapped on, the backs of men. ^
By means of it the .Korean can carry ’
tremendousiiburdens. .’>What a walk ;
itowasr that- we had throiigii tbat|
Jiltby townl There is no drainage, the
refnse'of the city rots in tlie sun, tlie
little mud. houses witli t hate lied roofs
are -packed together with tio room he-
tweeu; No wonder they Jtave a jier-
fect carniv^alrof typhus and typhoid
•pud chiiiera and sm'illpox and tuber-
culosis and malaria. so far as genus
aieiconcerued Taiku is, I supfK>se, one
ofithe. must cosmopolitan ]ilaces in the
wbzid. •. .8eveu . heroic. oneu,. -most of
themXmedical missionaries,., have, al-
readyiBUccumbed to typluis, «iid have
died 4be.martyrtfi ideatlr^as $ruly as'
any early .Christian wlur -was .cast in-
totUe Jinmau arena;r.; Two men in the
Taikn^hstatiou alone, have: had their'
battle with typhus and ■won. One of!
them is my good friend and .class- ;
matetHarry Broeu, -whose 'father was |
the first pastorlof our .church., and the
otheris Dr. -Woodbxidge Johnson, the
medical.' missionary -c>f-Mthe. station,
though ittnokDr. Johnson threeyears
in Amyieado feeover.his.health..L. :.aj J--
^ SEhestt <<t^*-aa«»ck -heroics alK>ut
tU«M.<mbie-aMtt.«>tid.<wouieB;«td'«iku.
dm H>e-
«|drH fertfac-.iMtrefituf the
£i3iext«6.''...‘Tl]u^i8>tM>t« pseeiif -k»>the
.wh«Je,}t>unch^2r;?'heyHiure natural
aud utta fleeted, -as fuU<af kigiitbearted-
ueee -:aij|d^ wit, as though they were
livings carefree, danger free, luxurious
life with all their friends ^beut them
in happy Amerioa,:>,-«.>fH« -
Well,-; jWalter*: Erdmau vfiMk' me
through, the «ity,.<.dewQ .•ouer-'-tittle
narrow orooked .lane ,and.:u n^smother,
pointiitg nuHhe' sights/ somewhat as
follows: “This is Fifth avenue,.,aiuiig
which we are now going." Plere is’23rd
street and BroadM’ay. This lofty one
story huHdlttr-is the flatiron’huridiDgV
etc.^’ till all, Taiku must have thought
I had -an attack of hysterics-, And
what queer looking people are walk-
ing up auff down these streets." Tlie
boys with their braided hair, yon can
baldly tell from the- girls. When
they marry tliey have the privilege ol
doing up their hair iu a tojiknot, and
wear a black jiartly transparent horse-
haii fiat to prutect it. Jt.Jooks like a
rat-trap with the rat inside. It is
shaped-'Tike an ‘inverted -flower-pot
with a straight brim.; undei it are
black eyes, a faded brown putty like
face, and usually -a luotb^eaten beard.
They wear flowing white or approxi-
mately white robes., We saw some
fellow^' digging up one of the streets,
andTt'was a fimtiy sight. One fellow
bolds the spade and two or four ottiers
.pull. -on ropes fastened/ U> the lower
end plythe handle. |,“A simple de-
vice’’,, as Mr.-'.Adams of, .the mission^
says',"" ‘enabling five men to the
work of one.” • ' .i.-' <> ,
The missionaries’ houses are at tlie
top'iof ai'hill just beyond,; the city,
where now they cau^get.a little.fresli-
aiy aud .home fort. But fo.r several’
yeafC’fhey had to' live" *io^ native
houses iu tlie city. How they pos.sihly
endured it only Jove can ex|>iaiu. Tlie
work at Taiku is only ten years old.
Mr. Adams (Kev. James E.) and Dr.-
Jobusoii (before mentioned)- were the
pioneers, and for six years notauotliex-
foreigner came through. Now plenty
go through as fast as they can on the
railroad, but don’t stop in this, one of |
the dirtiest. of Korea’s cities. i
One of the most thrilling meetings I j
have ever attended, was a meeting oM
the missionaries of Taiku Htatioi.,
Saturday eveiiiug.- Tlie hisliopric of
that statiou, so to speak, is about 175
miles Jong. aud 100 or so , uiiles.,wide,
aud the men go on .itinerating trips tp 1
visit ‘ cliurches “and groups' of
Cliristians.-aometimes • wu I king thirty
or foxtyiauiles ja.-day ..--iniadditiou' -to
preacliing aud catechizing, and. in-
cidcutgUy being' away from their,
ffainilies for weeks at a time.;"Well, the
kime had come •when it w«e in tlieir
jjudgmeut ueces.sary to open up a new
istatlou-.at «Au-JDuug.>.to 'the -north.
How simply it will read someday in -a
missionary report, “one new’ statiou
opeLied,”«ud bow? little dhe .average
reader.-Will ~k u ow 'of' the bcroKr~eel f-
eacriflee which imi^e" k
kiNd-«f iHooeer
dlaeomfbrtsaud-ej^pmoaejft wmaaeaq
a juau’s aeparatiou .from hw''lBinil3^
for a year or more,"tnoet of tire tim
and ’theultfatcfug tl>epa to tbat-tcaae'
I field wtiere he Itas made . some sort of
ia bome^ for them, away from every
i jbody and everything. That is what it
- \tueant when Mt; Adame ^aod- Dr.
Uoimeou opened up Taiku tea years |
^go. But at that meeting which -I at-
j tended, last Saturday night,' Mr.
I Adam’s eyes fairly blazed (be is one of
Itbe most magnetic ineu I have -ever
imet) as he said, ’’Oh 1 how I wish J
could uudirtake it, there -is no joy in
tlie world like being the flrst one to
Tiring tiie gospel to people that never
ibeardof it.” But Mr. Adams .could
not he spared from the Taiku church
and the Academy. ' Walter Erdmau
-wauted tp go hut Dr. Johusoii ab-
solutely forbade iiim because of his
|CondLtiou of health. Brueu could uot
I be spared from the work he wasdoiug.
Me Farlaud was needed iu the
Academy, aud {.awtell, a splendid big
Nebraskan volunteered to go: ? He
had already talked it over with his
noble wife aud tliey had agreed to-
{gether to go wherever it seemed best
ito tlie Mission tiiat they should go.
They will have hardships but also the
inexpressible joy wliich Faul coveted,-
of building upon no -other man’s-
foundation, but beiug the flrst To
preacli the gospel to tliose who iiave
never heard.'' What a meeting it was,'
HO harmonious, so ruled by the .spirit:
oflpve,|SO heroic..iu the truest seuse'.
fDo you w,ouder that it set every fibre,
|of my" manhood tingliiig, aud filled
me,,wiUi. an, almost , uncontrollable-
longing to say “I’ll go too.” j"),
' 'And now I must tell yon about -our.
Sunday at Taiku. I'havehad a series
of ivouderful; Sundays ewr since I
crossed the Pacific.,..! have preached-
once or tw'ice every Sunday, but the
Taiku congregation was tlie most re-j
;j^axkable of ail. They’ are buildiug a
I uew church, but it’s not finished, so
! iliev still meet in the old one, which
'seats live hundred -squatting on the I
floor as close as sardines. The build-
ing cannot possibly hold the whole
congregation at one time, so they meet
in two; sections. First the women _
came at Pa. m., .500 strong, aud fatlier
preached to tliem, Mr. Adams acting
a.s iuterpreter. Then at 10.30 came the
men five liuudred of them inside, and
a number outside, and ,I preached to
tliem, Mr. Adams again acting as in-
terpreter. It was an iuterestiug sight""
1 tell.you., to. see -those men iu their
white robes, with .their queer black!
hats tied uuder tlieir cliins, and just"
as attentive as though ’J‘ w’ere speak-
ing their ow'ii tongue^ After the ser-
vice a lot of tliem came forward to."
■greet us, \V alter Frdmau' now’ acting
as interpreter said us each one would
come along, “He egys he sees you foi^
!the first time. Now you must"!bow
laud say you see him for-dhe';^^! .
Jtiulei. He says "Ills iiameJe-Pak'sJud-
[is -veiy^grateJlu.l,, fqr_your -having come"
i, teHp«f(ai|
I followed 1 1
.One cauii<|
eople, so SI
teachabll
llwrueat in tlJ
At'fiwe o’< r
Brvloe ef
I families, wh|
Alouday
Ncademy an I
l«lid iustitutil
lout with til'
Itiou and rt|
Jbotli of theil
■ipdequate eqil
nut far wroi
|j)f no place I
Ilnm find heti|
fur the Kin
jOh, wlial
j physician In
|i^ Ills peofiil
|,with a tubei '
had carried
J.liis own hac;
|i«on miglit
I’w^rk is not <
lese poor ptl
'the *ligli r
^ghteth ever I
le world.
M— one- w|
riving, heril
k|:A'~Pong" sl<*
batliext tin I
llETiER FRO?
Kord
)aireu, (Dali
(C My last le|
lour wauderii
1 delightfully
« towu of tl
laud the ciT
Idiither It wt
the Hermil
Jmiesiouaries I
|l884, and heif
laud disease
slowness of
through the
{spoiled by til
the work ill
iJaboriug todf
Utiumber wh(|
loourse and rel
lyA'The very e]
iptember 21
ition of th|
Cbristiau m|
[Korea, for Dt
jatatioD, aud
[we were ente|
jin the city, tc
[feast iu bonoij
[Korean nursij
iug school of
"lead. In twi
Istw’o low tat
Ioreap_docto|
w