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i^iivsSK 


F  51.12 
B73I. 


A 


^  PRINCETON,  N.  J.  *^ 


Purchased   by  the    Hamill   Missionary   Fund, 


n^  2087     i,. 


MISSIONARY  READINGS 


FOR 


MISSIONARY  PROGRAMS 


The 

Transformation 
of  Ha^raii 

How  American  Missionaries  gave  a  Christ 
ian  Nation  to  the  World.     Stories  of  Mis-  i 
sions.     Illustrated.      i2mo,  cloth,   $i  .00. 

"  It  is  remarkable  that  one  who  has  not  been  on  the 
ground  should  have  attained  such  a  comprehension  of 
the  subject  as  a  whole,  and  such  accuracy  of  detail.  I 
am  in  a  position  to  judge  of  these  points,  having  lived 
there  nearly  all  ray  life." — Prof.  W.  D.  Alexander, 
author  of  "A  brief  History  of  the  Hawaiian  People." 

"  Well  bound  and  illustrated,  and  it  contains  a  brightly 
written  and  very  full  account  of  one  of  the  most  marvel- 
ous stories  in  all  missionary  history — the  conquest  for 
Christ  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  Every  page  of  the 
book  is  full  of  interest."— C  E.  World. 


FLEMING    H.    REVELL     COMPANY 
FublisHers 


Missionary  Readings 

for 

Missionary  Programs 


RIU^GE 


COMPILED  AND  ARR^GED  BY 

BELLE  M.' BRAIN 

AUTHOR  OF  "  FUEL  FOR  MISSIONARY  FIRES," 
"transformation  OF  HAWAII,"  ETC. 


NEW  YORK       CHICAGO       TORONTO 

Fleming  H.  Revell  Company 
1901 


Copyright  igoi 

BY 
FLEMING  H.  REVELL  COMPANY 

amy) 


THE  CAXTON  PRESS 
NEW  YORK, 


FOREWORD 

Modern  missionary  literature  abounds  in 
thrilling  incident,  graphically  told.  Nowhere 
can  be  found  better  material  for  the  mis- 
sionary elocutionist  than  in  the  books  which 
record  the  heroic  deeds  of  those  new  apos- 
tles of  the  faith,  whose  achievements  might 
well  form  added  chapters  to  the  Book  of 
Acts. 

In  their  original  setting,  however,  the 
stories  of  missionary  experience  are,  as  a 
rule,  much  too  long  for  practical  use ;  hence 
the  present  volume  in  which  the  selections 
have  been  condensed  sufficiently  to  bring 
them  within  the  time  limit  necessary  for  the 
ordinary  missionary  gathering. 

The  twenty-five  readings  herewith  given 
cover  a  wide  range  of  topics,  including  trag- 
edy and  comedy,  pathos  and  humor.  Not 
all  of  them  are  suitable  for  use  on  the  Lord's 
day;  some  are  only  appropriate  for  the  so- 
cial missionary  hour.  All,  however,  have 
their  mission,  being  profitable  for  inspira- 
tion, instruction  or  entertainment. 

With  a  single  exception  the  selections 
5 


6  Foreword 

have  been  culled  from  the  publications  of 
the  Fleming  H.  Revell  Company.  "  The 
Pentecost  on  the  Congo "  from  the  New 
Acts  of  the  Apostles,  has  been  included  by 
the  kind  permission  of  The  Baker  and  Tay- 
lor Company. 

Belle  M.  Brain. 

Springfield,  Ohio,  July,  1901. 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

John   G.   Paton,  Missionary   to   the 
New  Hebrides,  Vol.  I. 

1.  Our  Cottage  Home 9 

2.  The    Magical    Effect    of   an    English 

Man-of-war  19 

3.  A  Slide  in  the  Dark 27 

John   G.   Paton,   Missionary   to   the 
New  Hebrides,  Vol.  //. 

4.  A    Twenty-mile    Ride    Through    the 

Australian  Bush 33 

5.  Nelwang's   Elopement 41-"' 

6.  The  Sinking  of  the  Well 49 

New  Acts  of  the  Apostles. 

7.  The  Pentecost  on  the  Congo 61     *^ 

Life  of  John  Kenneth  Mackenzie. 

8.  The  Power  of  Prayer:  How  Li  Hung 

Chang  Became  an  Advocate  of  Medi- 
cal Missions 69 

From  Far  Formosa. 

9.  How  Bang-kah  Was  Taken 79 

In  the  Tiger  Jungle. 

10.  Does  God  Hear  Prayer?    A  Thrilling 

Experience  in  a  Tiger  Jungle 90 

11.  An   Encounter  with   a  Ten-foot   Ser- 

pent      102 

7 


8  Contents 

PAGE 

The  Cobra's  Den. 

12.  The  Spotted  Tiger  Foiled 109 

13.  The  Angry  Mob  and  the  Story  of  the 

Cross   116 

While  Sewing  Sandals, 

14.  The  Story  of  an  India  Famine 127 

The  Gist  of  Japan. 

15.  Topsyturvydom   143 

The  Transformation  of  Hawaii. 

16.  A  Modern  Elijah 150 

17.  How  A  United  States  Citizen  was  Res- 

cued FROM  Marquesas  Cannibals 158 

My  Life  and  Times. 

18.  How   Cyrus   Hamlin    Came   Out  of   a 

Missionary  Box 165 

Korean  Sketches. 

19.  The  Korean  Pony 172 

20.  The  Korean  Boy 181 

21.  The  Korean  New  Year 190 

On  the  Indian  Trail. 

22.  God  on  the  Rock:    How  the  Indians 

are  Taught  to  Read  the  Book 197 

23.  The   Victory   of   the    Sabbath-keeping 

Indians    207 

The  Apostle   of   the  North,   James 
Evans. 

24.  Camping  in  the  Snow  Bank 215 

25.  A  Life  for  a  Life 226 


MISSIONARY    READINGS 

FOR 

MISSIONARY  PROGRAMS 


OUR  COTTAGE  HOME 

From  "  John  G.  Paton,  Missionary  to  the  New 
Hebrides",  an  autobiography  edited  by  his 
brother. 

Our  cottage  home  in  the  ancient  village 
of  Torthorwald,  about  four  and  a  quarter 
miles  from  Dumfries,  consisted  of  a  "  but  '* 
and  a  "  ben  "  and  a  "  mid  room  "  or  cham- 
ber, called  the  "  closet."  The  one  end  was 
my  mother's  domain,  and  served  all  the  pur- 
poses of  dining-room  and  kitchen  and  par- 
lour, besides  containing  two  large  wooden 
erections,  called  by  our  Scotch  peasantry 
*'  box-beds ;  "  not  holes  in  the  walls  as  in 
cities,  but  grand,  big,  airy  beds,  adorned 
with  many-coloured  counterpanes,  and  hung 
with  natty  curtains,  showing  the  skill  of  the 
mistress  of  the  house. 
9 


lo  John  G.  Paton 

The  other  end  was  my  father's  workshop, 
filled  with  five  or  six  "  stocking  frames,'^ 
whirring  with  the  constant  action  of  five  or 
six  pairs  of  busy  hands  and  feet,  and  pro- 
ducing right  genuine  hosiery  for  the  mer- 
chants at  Hawick  and  Dumfries. 

The  "  closet  "  was  a  very  small  apartment 
betwixt  the  other  two,  having  room  only  for 
a  bed,  a  little  table  and  a  chair,  with  a  dimin- 
utive window  shedding  diminutive  light  on 
the  scene.  This  was  the  Sanctuary  of  that 
cottage  home.  Thither  daily,  and  oftentimes 
a  day,  generally  after  each  meal,  we  saw  our 
father  retire,  and  "  shut  to  the  door ;  "  and 
we  children  got  to  understand  by  a  sort  of 
spiritual  instinct  (for  the  thing  was  too 
sacred  to  be  talked  about)  that  prayers 
were  being  poured  out  there  for  us,  as  of  old 
by  the  High  Priest  within  the  veil  in  the 
Most  Holy  Place.  We  occasionally  heard 
the  pathetic  echoes  of  a  trembling  voice, 
pleading  as  if  for  life,  and  we  learned  to  slip 
out  and  in  past  that  door  on  tiptoe,  not  to 
disturb  the  holy  colloquy.  The  outside  world 
might  not  know,  but  we  knew,  whence  came 
that  happy  Hght  as  of  a  new-bom  smile  that 
always  was  dawning  on  my  father's  face ;  it 
was  a  reflection  from  the  Divine  Presence, 
in  the  consciousness  of  which  he  lived. 

Never,  in  temple  or  cathedral,  on  moun- 


Our  Cottage  Home  1 1 

tain  or  in  glen,  can  I  hope  to  feel  that  the 
Lord  God  is  more  near,  more  visibly  walk- 
ing and  talking  with  men,  than  under  that 
humble  cottage  roof  of  thatch  and  oaken 
wattles.  Though  everything  else  in  re- 
ligion were  by  some  unthinkable  catastrophe 
to  be  swept  out  of  memory,  or  blotted  from 
my  understanding,  my  soul  would  wander 
back  to  those  early  scenes,  and  shut  itself 
up  once  again  in  that  Sanctuary  Closet,  and, 
hearing  still  the  echoes  of  those  cries  to 
God,  would  hurl  back  all  doubt  with  the 
victorious  appeal,  ''  He  walked  with  God, 
why  may  not  I  ?  " 

Our  mother,  Janet  Jardine  Rogerson,  was 
a  bright-hearted,  high-spirited,  patient-toil- 
ing, and  altogether  heroic  little  woman ;  who 
for  about  forty-three  years,  made  such  a 
wholesome,  independent.  God-fearing,  and 
self-reliant  life  for  her  family  of  five  sons 
and  six  daughters,  as  constrains  me,  when 
I  look  back  upon  it,  almost  to  worship  her 
memory. 

In  her  girlhood  she  had  gone,  with  her 
high  spirits  and  breezy  disposition  to  glad- 
den the  quiet  abode  of  some  grand,  or  great- 
grand-uncle  and  aunt,  familiarly  named,  in 
all  that  Dalswinton  neighborhood,  "  Old 
Adam  and  Eve."  Their  home  was  in  the 
outskirts  of  the  moor  and  life  for  the  young 


12  John  G.  Paton 

girl  had  there  not  probably  too  much  excite- 
ment. But  one  thing  had  arrested  her  at- 
tention. She  had  noticed  that  a  young 
stocking  maker,  James  Paton,  son  of  Wil- 
liam and  Janet,  was  in  the  habit  of  stealing 
alone  into  the  quiet  wood,  book  in  hand, 
day  after  day,  at  certain  hours,  as  if  for  pri- 
vate study  and  meditation.  It  was  a  very 
excusable  curiosity  that  led  the  bright  young 
heart  of  the  girl  to  watch  him  devoutly 
reading  and  hear  him  reverently  reciting; 
and  finally  that  curiosity  awed  itself  into  a 
holy  respect,  when  she  saw  him  lay  aside 
his  broad  Scotch  bonnet,  kneel  down  under 
the  sheltering  wings  of  some  tree,  and 
pour  out  all  his  soul  in  daily  prayers  to  God. 
As  yet  they  had  never  spoken.  What 
spirit  moved  her,  let  lovers  tell — was  it  all 
devotion,  or  was  it  a  touch  of  unconscious 
love  kindling  in  her  toward  the  yellow- 
haired  and  thoughtful  youth?  Anyhow, 
one  day  she  slipped  in  quietly,  stole  away 
his  bonnet,  and  hung  it  on  a  branch  near  by, 
while  his  trance  of  devotion  made  him  ob- 
livious of  all  around;  then,  from  a  safe  re- 
treat she  watched  and  enjoyed  his  searching 
for  and  finding  it !  A  second  day  this  was 
repeated;  but  his  manifest  disturbance  of 
mind,  and  his  long  pondering  with  the  bon- 
net in  hand,  as  if  almost  alarmed,  seemed 


Our  Cottage  Home  13 

to  touch  another  chord  in  her  heart — that 
chord  of  pity  which  is  so  often  the  prelude 
of  love,  that  finer  pity  that  grieves  to 
wound  anything  nobler  or  tenderer  than 
ourselves. 

Next  day,  when  he  came  to  his  accus- 
tomed place  of  prayer,  a  little  card  was 
pinned  against  the  tree  just  where  he  knelt, 
and  on  it  were  these  words :  "  She  who  stole 
away  your  bonnet  is  ashamed  of  what  she 
did;  she  has  a  great  respect  for  you,  and 
asks  you  to  pray  for  her,  that  she  may 
become  as  good  a  Christian  as  you." 

Staring  long  at  the  writing,  he  forgot  his 
reading  for  one  day ;  taking  down  the  card, 
and  wondering  who  the  writer  could  be,  he 
was  abusing  himself  for  his  stupidity  in 
not  suspecting  that  some  one  had  discovered 
his  retreat,  and  removed  his  bonnet,  in- 
stead of  wondering  whether  angels  had 
been  there  during  his  prayer, — when,  sud- 
denly raising  his  eyes,  he  saw  in  front  of 
old  Adam's  cottage,  the  passing  of  another 
kind  of  angel,  swinging  a  milk-pail  in  her 
hand,  and  merrily  singing  some  snatch  of 
old  Scotch  song.  He  knew,  in  that  moment, 
by  a  Divine  instinct,  as  infallible  as  any 
voice  that  ever  came  to  seer  of  old,  that  she 
was  the  angel  visitor  that  had  stolen  in  upon 
his  retreat — that  bright-faced,  clever-witted 


14  John  G.  Patan 

niece  of  old  Adam  and  Eve,  to  whom  He 
had  never  yet  spoken,  but  whose  praises  he 
had  often  heard  said  and  sung — "  Wee  Jen." 
I  am  afraid  he  did  pray  "  for  her,"  in  more 
senses  than  one,  that  afternoon ;  at  any  rate, 
more  than  a  Scotch  bonnet  was  very  effectu- 
ally stolen ;  a  good  heart  and  true  was  there 
bestowed ;  and  the  trust  was  never  regretted 
on  either  side,  and  never  betrayed. 

Often  and  often,  in  the  genial  and  beau- 
tiful hours  of  the  autumntide  of  their  long 
life,  have  I  heard  my  dear  father  tease 
"  Jen "  about  her  maidenly  intentions  in 
the  stealing  of  that  bonnet;  and  often  with 
quick  mother  wit  have  heard  her  happy  re- 
tort, that  had  his  motives  for  coming  to 
that  retreat  been  altogether  and  exclusively 
pious,  he  would  probably  have  found  his 
way  to  the  other  side  of  the  wood ;  but  that 
men  who  prowled  about  the  Garden  of  Eden 
ran  the  risk  of  meeting  some  day  with  a 
daughter  of  Eve ! 

Somewhere  in  or  about  his  seventeenth 
year,  my  father  had  passed  through  a  crisis 
of  religious  experience,  and  from  that  da}'' 
he  openly  and  very  decidedly  followed  the 
Lord  Jesus.  Family  worship  had  heretofore 
been  held  only  on  Sabbath  day  in  his  father's 
house;  but  the  young  Christian,  entering 
into    conference    with    his    sympathising 


Our  Cottage  Home  ij 

mother,  managed  to  get  the  household  per- 
suaded that  there  ought  to  be  daily  morn- 
ing and  evening  prayer,  and  reading  of  the 
Bible  and  holy  singing.  And  thus  began, 
in  his  seventeenth  year,  that  blessed  custom 
of  Family  Prayer,  morning  and  evening, 
which  my  father  practised  probably  without 
one  single  omission  till  he  lay  on  his  death- 
bed, seventy-seven  years  of  age ;  when  even 
to  the  last  day  of  his  life,  a  portion  of 
Scripture  was  read,  and  his  voice  heard 
softly  joining  in  the  Psalm,  and  his  lips 
breathed  the  morning  and  evening  Prayer, — 
falling  in  sweet  benediction  on  the  heads  of 
all  his  children,  far  away  many  of  them 
over  all  the  earth,  but  all  meeting  him  at 
the  Throne  of  Grace.  None  of  us  can  re- 
member that  any  day  passed  unhallowed 
thus ;  no  hurry  for  market,  no  rush  to  busi- 
ness, no  arrival  of  guests,  no  trouble  or  sor- 
row, no  joy  or  excitement,  ever  prevented  at 
least  our  kneeling  around  the  family  altar, 
while  the  High  Priest  led  our  prayers  to 
God,  and  offered  himself  and  his  children 
there. 

Our  place  of  worship  was  the  Reformed 
Presbyterian  Church  at  Dumfries,  fully 
four  miles  from  our  Torthorwald  home ;  but 
the  tradition  is  that  during  forty  years  my 
father  was  only  thrice  prevented  from  at* 


i6  John  G.  Pa  ton 

tending  the  worship  of  God — once  by 
snow  so  deep  that  he  was  baffled  and  had 
to  return ;  once  by  ice  on  the  road,  so  dan- 
gerous that  he  was  forced  to  crawl  back 
on  his  hands  and  knees ;  and  once  by  a  ter- 
rible outbreak  of  cholera  at  Dumfries.  All 
intercourse  betwixt  the  town  and  the  sur- 
rounding villages  was  publicly  prohibited; 
and  the  farmers  and  villagers,  suspecting 
that  no  cholera  would  make  my  father  stay 
at  home  on  the  Sabbath,  sent  a  deputation 
to  my  mother  on  the  Saturday  evening,  and 
urged  her  to  restrain  his  devotions  for  once ! 
That,  however,  was  needless;  as  where  the 
life  of  others  was  at  stake,  his  very  devotion 
came  to  their  aid. 

Each  of  us,  from  very  early  days,  con- 
sidered it  no  penalty,  but  a  great  joy,  to  go 
with  our  father  to  the  church;  the  four 
miles  were  a  treat  to  our  young  spirits,  and 
occasionally  some  of  the  wonders  of  city 
life  rewarded  our  eager  eyes.  A  few  other 
pious  men  and  women  from  the  same  parish 
went  to  one  or  another  favourite  minister 
at  Dumfries;  and  when  the  God-fearing 
peasants  foregathered  in  the  way  to  or  from 
the  House  of  God,  we  youngsters  had  some- 
times rare  glimpses  of  what  Christian  talk 
may  be  and  ought  to  be. 

We  had  special  Bible  Readings  on  the 


Our  Cottage  Home  17 

Lord's  Day  evening,  and  the  Shorter  Cate- 
chism was  gone  through  regularly.  Oh, 
I  can  remember  those  happy  Sabbath  even- 
ings; no  blinds  drawn  and  shutters  up,  to 
keep  out  the  sun  from  us,  as  some  scanda- 
lously affirm;  but  a  holy,  happy,  entirely 
human  day,  for  a  Christian  father,  mother, 
and  children  to  spend. 

There  were  eleven  ot  us  brought  up  in, 
a  house  like  that;  and  never  one  of  the 
eleven,  boy  or  girl,  man  or  woman,  has  been 
heard,  or  ever  will  be  heard,  saying  that 
the  Sabbath  was  dull  or  wearisome  to  us. 
But  God  help  the  homes  where  these  things 
are  due  by  force  and  not  by  love!  The 
very  discipline  through  which  our  father 
passed  us  was  a  kind  of  religion  in  itself. 
If  anything  really  serious  required  to  be 
punished  he  retired  first  to  his  closet  for 
prayer,  and  we  boys  got  to  understand  that 
he  was  laying  the  whole  matter  before  God ; 
and  that  was  the  severest  part  of  the  punish- 
ment for  me  to  bear!  I  could  have  defied 
any  amount  of  mere  penalty,  but  this  spoke 
to  my  conscience  like  a  message  from  God. 
We  loved  him  all  the  more,  when  we  saw 
how  much  it  cost  him  to  punish  us ;  and,  in 
truth,  he  had  never  very  much  of  that  kind 
of  work  to  do  upon  any  one  of  all  the  eleven 
—we  were  ruled  far  more  by  love  than  fear. 


1 8  John  G.  Paton 

His  long  and  upright  life  made  him  a 
great  favourite  in  all  religious  circles  far 
and  near  within  the  neighbourhood.  At 
sick-beds  and  funerals  he  was  constantly 
sent  for  and  much  appreciated;  and  this 
appreciation  greatly  increased,  instead  of 
diminishing,  when  the  years  whitened  his 
long  flowing  locks,  and  gave  him  apostolic 
beauty.  His  happy  partner,  "  Wee  Jen," 
died  in  1865,  and  he  himself  in  1868,, — an 
altogether  beautiful  and  noble  episode  of 
human  existence  having  been  enacted,  amid 
the  humblest  surroundings  of  a  Scottish 
peasant's  home,  through  the  influence  of 
their  united  love  by  the  grace  of  God;  and 
in  this  world,  or  in  any  world,  all  their 
children  will  rise  up  at  mention  of  their 
names  and  call  them  blessed  I 


II 


THE  MAGICAL  EFFECT  OF  AN  ENG- 
LISH MAN-OF-WAR 

From  "John  G.  Paton",  Vol.  I. 

Missionary  work  among  the  savages  of 
Tanna^  was  uphill,  weary  and  trying  work. 
For  one  thing,  the  people  were  terribly  dis- 
honest; and  when  there  was  any  special 
sickness,  or  excitement  from  any  cause, 
their  bad  feelings  toward  the  Worship  was 
displayed  by  the  more  insolent  way  in  which 
they  carried  off  whatever  they  could  seize. 
When  I  opposed  them,  the  club  or  toma- 
hawk, the  musket  or  kawas  (i.  e.,  killing 
stone),  being  instantly  raised,  intimated  that 
my  life  would  be  taken,  if  I  resisted  them. 

Their  skill  in  steahng  was  phenomenal! 
If  an  article  fell,  a  Tannaman  would  neatly 
cover  it  with  his  foot,  while  looking  you 
frankly  in  the  face,  and  having  fixed  it  by 
his  toes,  would  walk  off  with  it,  assuming 
the  most  innocent  look  in  the  world.  In 
this  way,  a  knife,  a  pair  of  scissors,  or  any 
smaller   article,   would   at   once   disappear. 

*An  island  of  the   New  Hebrides  group. 
19 


ao  John  G.  Paton 

Another  fellow  would  deftly  stick  some- 
thing out  of  sight  amongst  the  whip-cord 
plaits  of  his  hair;  another  would  conceal  it 
under  his  naked  arm ;  while  yet  another 
would  shamelessly  lift  what  he  coveted,  and 
openly  carry  it  away. 

With  most  of  them,  however,  the  shame 
was  not  in  the  theft,  but  in  doing  it  so 
clumsily  that  they  were  discovered !  Once, 
after  continuous  rain  and  a  hot,  dry  atmos- 
phere, when  the  sun  shone  out,  I  put  my 
bed-clothes  on  a  rope  to  dry.  I  stood  at 
hand  watching,  as  also  the  wives  of  two 
Teachers,  for  things  were  mysteriously  dis- 
appearing almost  under  our  very  eyes. 
Suddenly,  Miaki,^  who  with  his  war-com- 
panions had  been  watching  us  unobserved, 
came  rushing  to  me  crying, — 

**  Missi,^  come  in,  quick,  quick !  I  want 
to  tell  you  something  and  to  get  your  ad- 
vice!" 

He  ran  into  my  house,  and  I  followed; 
but  before  he  got  into  his  story,  we  heard 
the  two  women  crying  out, — 

"  Missi,  missi,  come  quick !  Miaki's  men 
are  stealing  your  sheets  and  blankets !  " 

I  ran  at  once,  but  all  were  gone  into  the 
bush,  and  with  them  my  bed-clothes.    Miaki 

*A  Tannese  chief. 

'An  abbreviation  of  missionary. 


An  English  Man-of-War         21 

for  a  moment  looked  abashed,  as  I  charged 
him  with  deceiving  me  just  to  give  his  men 
their  opportunity.  But  he  soon  rose  to  the 
occasion.  He  wrought  himself  into  a  tower- 
ing rage  at  them,  flourished  his  huge  club, 
and  smashed  the  bushes  all  around,  shout- 
ing to  me, — 

"  Thus  will  I  smash  these  fellows,  and 
compel  them  to  return  your  clothes." 

One  dark  night  I  heard  them  amongst 
my  fowls.  These  I  had  purchased  from 
them  for  knives  and  calico;  and  they  now 
stole  them  all  away,  dead  or  alive.  Had  I 
interfered,  they  would  have  gloried  in  the 
chance  to  club  or  shoot  me  in  the  dark,  when 
no  one  could  exactly  say  who  had  done  the 
deed.  Several  of  the  goats,  which  I  had 
for  milk,  were  also  killed  or  driven  away; 
indeed,  all  the  injury  that  was  possible  was 
done  to  me,  short  of  taking  away  my  life, 
and  that  was  now  frequently  attempted. 

Having  no  fires  or  fire-places  in  my  Mis- 
sion House,  such  not  being  required  there, 
we  had  a  house  near  by  in  which  all  our 
food  was  cooked,  and  there,  under  lock  and 
key  we  secured  all  our  cooking  utensils, 
pots,  dishes,  etc.  One  night,  that  too  was 
broken  into,  and  everything  stolen.  In  con- 
sternation, I  appealed  to  the  Chief,  telling 
him  what  had  been  done.    He  also  flew  into 


22  John  G.  Paton 

a  great  rage,  and  vowed  vengeance  on  the 
thieves,  saying  that  he  would  compel  them 
to  return  everything.  But,  of  course,  noth- 
ing was  returned;  the  thief  could  not  be 
found ! 

I,  unable  to  live  without  something  in 
which  to  boil  water,  at  length  offered  a 
blanket  to  anyone  that  would  bring  back  my 
kettle.  Miaki  himself,  after  much  professed 
difficulty,  returned  it  minus  the  lid — that, 
he  said  could  not  be  got  at  any  price,  being 
at  the  other  side  of  the  island  in  a  tribe 
over  which  he  had  no  control ! 

Having  no  means  of  redress,  we  strove  to 
make  as  little  of  our  trials  as  possible;  in- 
deed we  bore  them  all  gladly  for  Jesus' 
sake.  All  through  these  sorrows,  our  as- 
surance deepened,  rather  than  faded,  that 
if  God  only  spared  us  to  lead  them  to  love 
the  Lord  Jesus,  they  would  soon  learn  to 
trust  us  as  their  friend.  That,  however,  did 
not  do  away  with  the  hard  facts  of  my  life 
— being  now  entirely  alone  amongst  them, 
opposed  by  their  cruelty  at  every  turn,  and 
deceived  by  their  unfailing  lies. 

One  morning,  the  Tannese,  rushing  to- 
ward me  in  great  excitement,  cried,  "  Missi, 
missi,  there  is  a  God,  or  a  ship  on  fire,  or 
something  of  fear,  coming  over  the  sea! 
,We  see  no  flames,  but  it  smokes  like  a  vol- 


An  English  Man-of-War         23 

cano.  Is  it  a  Spirit,  a  God,  or  a  ship  on 
fire  ?    What  is  it  ?    What  is  it  ?  " 

One  party  after  another  followed  in 
quick  succession,  shouting  the  same  ques- 
tions in  great  alarm.  I  replied,  "  I  cannot 
go  at  once ;  I  must  dress  in  my  best  clothes ; 
it  will  likely  be  one  of  Queen  Victoria's 
Men-of-War,  coming  to  ask  me  if  your 
conduct  is  good  or  bad,  if  you  are  stealing 
my  property,  or  threatening  my  Hfe." 

They  pled  with  me  to  go  and  see  it;  but 
I  made  much  fuss  about  dressing  and  get- 
ting ready  to  meet  the  great  Chief  on  the 
vessel,  and  would  not  go  with  them.  The 
two  principal  chiefs  now  came  running  and 
asked,  "  Missi,  will  it  be  a  ship  of  war?  " 

I  called  to  them,  "  I  think  it  will ;  but  I 
have  no  time  to  speak  to  you  now,  I  must 
get  on  my  best  clothes." 

They  said,  **  Missi,  only  tell  us,  will  he  ask 
you  if  we  have  been  stealing  your  things  ?  " 

I  answered,  "  I  expect  he  will.'* 

They  asked,  "  And  will  you  tell  him  ?  " 

I  said,  "  I  must  tell  him  the  truth.  If  he 
asks,  I  must  tell  him." 

They  then  cried  out,  "  Oh,  Missi,  tell  him 
not!  Everything  shall  be  brought  back  to 
you  at  once,  and  no  one  will  be  allowed 
again  to  steal  from  you." 

Then  said  I,   "  Be    quick !      Everything 


24  John  G.  Paton 

must  be  returned  before  he  comes.  Away, 
away!  and  let  me  get  ready  to  meet  the 
great  chief  on  the  Man-of-war." 

Hitherto  no  thief  could  ever  be  found, 
and  no  Chief  had  power  to  cause  anything 
to  be  restored  to  me;  but  now  in  an  in- 
credibly short  space  of  time,  one  came  run- 
ning to  the  Mission  House  with  a  pot, 
another  with  a  pan,  another  with  a  blanket, 
others  with  knives,  forks,  plates,  and  all 
sorts  of  stolen  property.  The  Chiefs  called 
me  to  receive  these  things,  but  I  replied, 
"  Lay  them  all  down  at  the  door,  bring 
everything  together  quickly;  I  have  no 
time  to  speak  with  you." 

I  delayed  my  toilet,  enjoying  mis- 
chievously the  magical  effect  of  an  ap- 
proaching vessel  that  might  bring  penalty 
to  thieves.  At  last  one  of  the  Chiefs,  run- 
ning in  breathless  haste,  called  out  to  me, 
"  Missi,  missi,  do  tell  us,  is  the  stolen  prop- 
erty all  here  ?  " 

Of  course  I  could  not  tell,  but,  running 
out,  I  looked  on  the  promiscuous  heap  of 
my  belongings,  and  said,  "  I  don't  see  the 
lid  of  the  kettle  there  yet !  " 

"  No,  Missi,"  said  one  Chief,  "  for  it  is 
on  the  other  side  of  the  island ;  but  tell  him 
not,  I  have  sent  for  it,  and  it  will  be  here 


An  English  Man-of-War         25 

I  answered,  "  I  am  glad  you  have  brought 
back  so  much ;  and  now  if  you  Chiefs  do  not 
run  away  when  he  comes,  he  will  not  likely 
punish  you ;  but,  if  you  and  your  people  run 
away,  he  will  ask  me  why  you  are  afraid, 
and  I  will  be  forced  to  tell  him !  Keep  near 
me  and  you  are  safe ;  only  there  must  be  no 
more  stealing  from  me." 

They  said,  "  We  are  in  black  fear,  but  we 
will  keep  near  you,  and  our  bad  conduct  to 
you  is  done." 

The  charm  and  joy  of  that  morning  are 
fresh  to  me  still,  when  H.  M.  S.  Cordelia^ 
Captain  Vernon,  steamed  into  our  lovely 
Harbour.  The  Commander,  having  heard 
rumour  of  my  dangers  on  Tanna,  came  on 
shore  as  soon  as  his  ship  cast  anchor,  and 
was  extremely  kind,  offering  to  do  anything 
in  his  power  for  me,  left  thus  alone  on  the 
island  amongst  the  savages. 

At  his  suggestion  I  sent  a  general  invita- 
tion to  all  the  Chiefs  to  meet  the  Captain 
next  morning  at  my  house.  True  to  their 
instincts  of  fear  and  suspicion,  they  dis- 
patched all  their  women  and  children  to  the 
beach  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  island  be- 
yond reach  of  danger,  and  next  morning 
my  house  was  crowded  with  armed  men, 
manifestly  much  afraid.  Punctually  at  10 
A.  M.;  the  Captain  came  on  shore  and  soon 


26  John  G.  Paton 

thereafter  twenty  Chiefs  were  seated  with 
him  in  my  house.  He  gave  them  wise 
counsels  and  warned  them  against  outrages 
on  strangers,  all  calculated  to  secure  our 
safety,  and  advance  the  interests  of  our 
Mission. 

He  then  invited  all  the  Chiefs  to  go  on 
board  and  see  his  vessel.  They  were  taken 
to  see  the  Armoury,  and  the  sight  of  the 
big  guns  vastly  astonished  them.  He  then 
showed  them  two  shells  discharged  towards 
the  Ocean,  at  which  as  they  burst  and  fell 
off,  splashing  into  the  water,  the  terror  of 
the  natives  visibly  increased.  But,  when  he 
sent  a  large  ball  crashing  through  a  cocoa- 
nut  grove,  breaking  the  trees  like  straws  and 
cutting  its  way  clear  and  swift,  they  were 
quite  dumb-founded  and  pled  to  be  again 
set  safely  on  shore.  After  each  receiving 
a  small  gift,  however,  they  were  reconciled 
to  the  situation,  and  returned  immensely 
interested  in  all  that  they  had  seen. 

Doubtless  many  a  wild  romance  was  spun 
by  these  savage  heads,  in  trying  to  describe 
and  hand  down  to  others  the  wonders  of 
the  fire-god  of  the  sea,  and  the  Captain  of 
the  great  white  Queen.  How  easily  it  all 
lends  itself  to  the  service  of  poetry  and 
myth! 


Ill 

A  SLIDE  IN  THE  DARK 

From  "  John  G.  Paton ",   Vol.  I. 

On  the  southwest  side  of  Tanna  ^  there 
was  another  Mission  Station  that  I  had  to 
visit  from  time  to  time,  as  the  missionaries 
there  were  both  in  a  poor  state  of  health. 
On  one  occasion,  a  message  reached  me  that 
they  were  without  European  food,  and  a 
request  to  send  them  a  little  flour  if  possible. 
A  war  was  raging  on  the  island,  making 
the  journey  overland  impossible,  while  a 
strong  wind  and  a  high  sea  round  the  coast 
rendered  it  impracticable  for  my  boat  to  go. 

The  danger  to  life  from  the  enemy  was 
so  great,  that  I  could  not  hire  a  crew.  I 
pled,  therefore,  with  a  few  leading  men  to 
take  one  of  their  best  canoes,  and  them- 
selves to  accompany  me.  I  had  a  large 
flat-bottomed  pot,  with  a  close-fitting  lid, 
and  that  I  pressed  full  of  flour;  and,  tying 
the  lid  firmly  down,  I  fastened  it  right  in 
the  centre  of  the  canoe,  as  far  above  the 
water-mark  as  possible.     All  else  that  was 

^  An  island  of  the  New  Hebrides  group. 
27 


28  John  G.  Paton 

required  we  tied  around  our  persons.  Sea 
and  land  being  as  they  were,  it  was  a  peril- 
ous undertaking,  which  only  dire  necessity 
could  have  justified. 

Creeping  around  near  the  shore  all  the 
way,  we  had  to  keep  just  outside  the  great 
breakers  on  the  coral'  reef,  and  were  all 
drenched  through  and  through  with  the 
foam  of  an  angry  surf.  We  narrowly  es- 
caped death  in  the  dangerous  sea,  but  at 
length  with  great  difficulty  we  made  our 
port  in  safety.  Singing  in  my  heart  unto 
God,  I  hired  a  man  to  carry  the  pot  of  flour, 
and  soon  arrived  at  the  Mission  Station. 

Supplying  the  wants  of  our  dear  friends 
whom  we  found  as  well  as  could  be  ex- 
pected, I  had  to  prepare  to  return  to  my 
own  Station  by  walking  overland  through 
the  night.  My  companions  resolved  to 
await  a  favourable  wind  and  tide  to  return 
to  their  homes,  but  I  durst  not  remain  longe'r 
away  lest  my  house  should  be  broken  into 
and  plundered. 

Before  I  had  gone  far  on  my  return 
journey  the  sun  went  down,  and  no  Native 
could  be  hired  to  accompany  me.  They  all 
told  me  that  I  would  for  certain  be  killed 
by  the  way.  But  I  knew  that  it  would  be 
quite  dark  before  I  reached  the  hostile  dis- 
tricts,   and    that    the    Heathen    are    great 


A  Slide  in  the  Dark  29 

cowards  in  the  dark,  and  never  leave  their 
villages  at  night,  except  in  companies  for 
fishing  and  such-like  tasks.  I  skirted  along 
the  sea-shore  as  fast  as  I  could,  walking 
and  running  alternately;  and,  when  I  got 
within  hearing  of  voices,  I  slunk  back  into 
the  bush  until  they  had  safely  passed,  and 
then  groped  my  way  back  near  the  shore, 
that  being  my  only  guide  to  find  a  path. 

Having  made  half  the  journey,  I  came  to 
a  dangerous  path,  almost  perpendicular,  up 
a  great  rock  around  the  base  of  which  the 
sea  roared  deep.  With  my  heart  lifted  up 
to  Jesus,  I  succeeded  in  climbing  it,  cau- 
tiously grasping  roots,  and  resting  by 
bushes,  till  I  reached  safely  to  the  top. 
There,  to  avoid  a  village,  I  had  to  keep 
crawling  slowly  along  the  bush  near  the 
sea,  on  the  top  of  that  great  ledge  of  rock, 
a  feat  I  could  never  have  accomplished 
even  in  daylight  without  excitement,  but  I 
felt  that  I  was  supported  and  guided  in  all 
that  life  or  death  journey  by  my  dear  Lord 
Jesus. 

I  had  to  leave  the  shore,  and  follow  up 
the  bank  of  a  very  deep  ravine  to  a  place 
shallow  enough  for  me  to  cross,  and  then 
through  the  bush  away  for  the  shore  again. 
By  holding  too  much  to  the  right,  I  missed 
the  point  where    I    intended    to    reach  it. 


30  John  G.  Paton 

Small  fires  were  now  visible  through  the 
bush,  I  heard  the  voices  of  people  talking 
in  one  of  our  most  heathen  villages.  Quietly 
drawing  back,  I  now  knew  where  I  was, 
and  easily  found  my  way  towards  the 
shore;  but  on  reaching  the  Great  Rock,  I 
could  not  in  the  darkness,  find  the  path 
down  again.  I  groped  about  till  I  was 
tired.  I  feared  that  I  might  stumble  over 
and  be  killed;  or  if  I  delayed  till  daylight, 
that  the  savages  would  kill  me. 

I  knew  that  one  part  of  the  rock  was 
steep-sloping,  with  little  growth  or  none 
thereon,  and  I  searched  about  to  find  it, 
resolved  to  commend  myself  to  Jesus  and 
slide  down  thereby  that  I  might  again  reach 
the  shore  and  escape  for  my  life.  Thinking 
I  had  found  this  spot,  I  hurled  down 
several  stones  and  listened  for  their  splash 
that  I  might  judge  whether  it  would  be 
safe.  But  the  distance  was  too  far  for  me 
to  hear  or  judge.  At  high  tide  the  sea 
there  was  deep;  but  at  low  tide  I  could 
wade  out  of  it  and  be  safe.  The  darkness 
made  it  impossible  to  see  anything.  I  let 
go  my  umbrella,  shoving  it  down  with  con- 
siderable force,  but  neither  did  it  send  me 
back  any  news. 

Feeling  sure,  however,  that  this  was  the 
place  I  sought,  and  knowing  that  to  await 


A  Slide  in  the  Dark  3 1 

the  daylight  would  be  certain  death,  I 
prayed  to  my  Lord  Jesus  for  help  and  pro- 
tection, and  resolved  to  let  myself  go.  First, 
I  fastened  all  my  clothes  as  tightly  as  I 
could,  so  as  not  to  catch  on  anything;  then 
I  lay  down  at  the  top  on  my  back,  feet 
foremost,  holding  my  head  downwards  on 
my  breast  to  keep  it  from  striking  on  the 
rock;  then,  after  one  cry  to  my  Saviour, 
having  let  myself  down  as  far  as  possible 
by  a  branch,  I  at  last  let  go,  throwing  my 
arms  forward  and  trying  to  keep  my  feet 
well  up.  A  giddy  swirl,  as  if  flying  through 
the  air,  took  possession  of  me;  a  few 
moments  seemed  an  age;  I  rushed  quickly 
down,  and  felt  no  obstruction  till  my  feet 
struck  into  the  sea  below. 

Adoring  and  praising  my  dear  Lord 
Jesus,  who  had  ordered  it  so,  I  regained 
my  feet ;  it  was  low  tide,  I  had  received  no 
injury,  I  found  my  umbrella,  and,  wading 
through,  I  found  the  shore  path  easier  and 
lighter  than  the  bush  had  been.  The  very 
darkness  was  my  safety,  preventing  the 
Natives  from  rambling  about.  I  saw  no 
person  to  speak  to,  till  I  reached  a  village 
quite  near  to  my  own  house,  fifteen  or 
twenty  miles  from  where  I  started;  here 
I  left  the  sea  path  and  promised  young  men 
some  fishhooks  to  guide  me  the  nearest  way 


32  John  G.  Paton 

through  the  bush  to  my  Mission  Station, 
which  they  gladly  and  heartily  did.  I  ran 
a  narrow  risk  in  approaching  them;  they 
thought  me  an  enemy,  and  I  arrested  their 
muskets  only  by  a  loud  cry, — 

"  I  am  Missi !  Don't  shoot ;  my  love  to 
you,  my  friends  !  " 

Praising  God  for  His  preserving  care,  I 
reached  home  and  had  a  long  refreshing 
sleep.  The  Natives,  on  hearing  next  day 
how  I  came  all  the  way  in  the  dark,  ex- 
claimed,— 

''  Surely  any  of  us  would  have  been 
killed !  Your  Jehovah  God  alone  thus  pro- 
tects you  and  brings  you  safely  home." 

With  all  my  heart,  I  said,  *'  Yes !  and  He 
will  be  your  protector  and  helper  too,  if  only 
you  will  obey  and  trust  in  Him." 

Certainly  that  night  put  my  faith  to  the 
test.  Had  it  not  been  for  the  assurance  that 
I  was  engaged  in  His  service,  and  that  in 
every  path  of  duty  He  would  carry  me 
through,  or  dispose  of  me  therein  for  His 
glory,  I  could  never  have  undertaken  this 
journey.  St.  Paul's  words  are  trae  to-day 
and  forever, — "  I  can  do  all  things  through 
Christ  which  strengtheneth  me." 


IV 


A  TWENTY-MILE  RIDE  THROUGH 
THE  AUSTRALIAN  BUSH 

From  "John  G.  Paton",  Vol.  II. 

The  crowning  adventure  of  my  tour  in 
Australia  when  I  was  travelling  over  the 
length  and  breadth  of  the  land  telling  the 
story  of  our  Mission,  came  about  in  the 
following  manner :  I  was  advertised  to  con- 
duct services  at  Narracoort  on  Sabbath, 
and  at  a  Station  on  the  way  on  Saturday 
evening.  But  how  to  get  from  Penola  was 
a  terrible  perplexity.  On  Saturday  morn- 
ing, however,  a  young  lady  offered  me,  out 
of  gratitude  for  blessings  received,  the  use 
of  her  riding  horse  for  the  journey. 

"  Garibaldi  "  was  his  name ;  and,  though 
bred  for  a  racehorse,  I  was  assured  that  if 
I  kept  him  firmly  in  hand,  he  would  easily 
carry  me  over  the  two-and-twenty  miles. 
He  was  to  be  left  at  the  journey's  end,  and 
the  lady  herself  would  fetch  him  back.  I 
shrank  from  the  undertaking,  knowing 
little  of  horses,  and  having  vague  recollec- 
tions of  being  dreadfully  punished  for  more 
33 


34  John  G.  Paton 

than  a  week  after  my  last  and  almost  only 
ride.  But  every  one  in  that  country  is  quite 
at  ease  on  the  back  of  a  horse.  They  saw  no 
risk ;  and,  as  there  appeared  to  be  no  other 
way  of  getting  there  to  fulfil  my  engage- 
ments, I,  for  my  part,  began  to  think  that 
God  had  unexpectedly  provided  the  means, 
and  that  He  would  carry  me  safely  through. 

I  accepted  the  lady's  kind  offer,  and 
started  on  my  pilgrimage.  A  friend  showed 
me  the  road,  and  gave  me  ample  directions. 
In  the  bush,  I  was  to  keep  my  eyes  on  the 
notches  in  the  trees,  and  follow  them.  He 
agreed  kindly  to  bring  my  luggage  to  the 
Station,  and  leave  it  there  for  me  by-and- 
bye.  After  I  had  walked  very  quietly  for 
some  distance,  three  gentlemen  on  horse- 
back overtook  me.  We  entered  into  con- 
versation. They  inquired  how  far  I  was 
going,  and  advised  me  to  set  a  little  "  freer  " 
in  the  saddle,  as  it  would  be  so  much  easier 
for  me.  They  seemed  greatly  amused  at  my 
awkward  riding! 

Dark  clouds  were  now  gathering  ahead, 
and  the  atmosphere  prophesied  a  severe 
storm;  therefore  they  urged  that  I  should 
ride  a  little  faster,  as  they,  for  a  consider- 
able distance,  could  guide  me  in  the  right 
way.  I  explained  to  them  my  plight 
through  inexperience,  said  that  I  could  only 


A  Twenty-mile  Ride  35 

creep  on  slowly  with  safety,  and  bade  them 
good-bye.  As  the  sky  was  getting  darker 
every  minute,  they  consented,  wishing  me 
a  safe  journey,  and  started  off  at  a  smart 
pace. 

I  struggled  to  hold  in  my  horse;  but 
seizing  the  bit  with  his  teeth,  laying  back 
his  ears,  and  stretching  out  his  eager  neck, 
he  manifestly  felt  that  his  honor  was  at 
stake ;  and  in  less  time  than  I  take  to  write 
it,  the  three  friends  cleared  a  way  for  us, 
and  he  tore  past  them  at  an  appalling 
speed.  They  tried  for  a  time  to  keep  within 
reach  of  us,  but  that  sound  only  put  fire 
into  his  blood;  and  in  an  incredibly  short 
time,  I  heard  them  not;  nor,  from  the 
moment  that  he  bore  me  swinging  past 
them,  durst  I  turn  my  head  by  one  inch 
to  look  for  them  again.  In  vain  I  tried  to 
hold  him  in ;  he  tore  on,  with  what  appeared 
to  me  the  speed  of  the  wind.  Then  the 
thunderstorm  broke  around  us,  with  flash 
of  lightning  and  flood  of  rain,  and  at  every 
fresh  peal  my  "  Garibaldi "  dashed  more 
wildly  onward. 

To  me,  it  was  a  vast  surprise  to  discover 
that  I  could  sit  more  easily  on  this  wild 
flying  thing,  than  when  at  a  canter  or  a 
trot.  At  every  turn  I  expected  that  he  would 
dash  himself  or  me  against  the  great  forest 


^6  John  G.  Paton 

trees;  but  instinct  rather  than  my  hand 
guided  him  miraculously.  Sometimes  I  had 
a  glimpse  of  the  road,  but  as  for  the 
"  notches,"  I  never  saw  one  of  them ;  we 
passed  them  with  lightning  speed.  Indeed 
I  durst  not  lift  my  eyes^  for  one  moment 
from  watching  the  horse's  head  and  the 
trees  on  our  track.  My  high-crowned  hat 
was  now  drenched,  and  battered  out  of 
shape;  for  whenever  we  came  to  a  rather 
clear  space,  I  seized  the  chance,  and  gave 
it  another  knock  down  over  my  head.  I 
was  spattered  and  covered  with  mud  and 
mire. 

Crash,  crash,  went  the  thunder,  and  on, 
on,  went  ''  Garibaldi "  through  the  gloom 
of  the  forest,  emerging  at  length  upon  a 
clearer  ground  with  a  more  visible  pathway. 
Reaching  the  top  of  the  slope,  a  large  house 
stood  far  out  in  front  of  us  to  the  left ;  and 
the  horse  had  apparently  determined  to 
make  straight  for  that,  as  if  it  were  his 
home.  He  skirted  along  the  hill,  and  took 
the  track  as  his  own  familiar  ground,  all 
my  effort  to  hold  him  in  or  guide  him 
having  no  more  effect  than  that  of  a  child. 
By  this  time,  I  suspect,  I  had  really  lost  all 
power.  "  Garibaldi "  had  been  at  that 
house,  probably  frequently  before ;  he  knew 


A  Twenty-mile  Ride  37 

those  stables;  and  my  fate  seemed  to  be 
instant  death  against  door  or  wall. 

Some  members  of  the  family,  on  the  out- 
look for  the  Missionary,  saw  us  come  tear- 
ing along  as  if  mad  or  drunk ;  and  now  all 
rushed  to  the  verandah,  expecting  some 
dread  catastrophe.  A  tall  and  stout  young 
groom,  amazed  at  our  wild  career,  throwing 
wide  open  the  gate,  seized  the  bridle  at  great 
risk  to  himself,  and  ran  full  speed,  yet  hold- 
ing back  with  all  his  might,  and  shouting 
at  me  to  do  the  same.  We  succeeded, — 
"  Garibaldi  "  having  probably  attained  his 
purpose, — in  bringing  him  to  a  halt  within 
a  few  paces  of  the  door.  Staring  at  me 
with  open  mouth,  the  man  exclaimed,  "  I 
have  saved  your  life.  What  madness  to 
ride  like  that ! "  Thanking  him,  though  I 
could  scarcely  by  this  time  articulate  a 
word,  I  told  him  that  the  horse  had  run 
away,  and  that  I  had  lost  all  control. 

Truly  I  was  in  a  sorry  plight,  drenched, 
covered  with  mud,  and  my  hat  battered 
down  over  my  ears ;  little  wonder  they 
thought  me  drunk  or  mad!  Finally,  as  if 
to  confirm  every  suspicion,  and  amuse  them 
all, — for  master,  mistress,  governess  and  the 
children  now  looked  on  from  the  verandah 
— when  I  was  helped  off  the  horse,  I  could 


38  John  G.  Paton 

not  stand  On  my  feet!  My  head  still  went 
rushing  on  in  the  race;  I  staggered,  and 
down  I  fell  into  the  mud,  feeling  chagrin 
and  mortification;  yet  there  I  had  to  sit 
for  some  time  before  I  recovered  myself, 
so  as  either  to  rise  or  to  speak  a  word. 
When  I  did  get  to  my  feet,  I  had  to  stand 
holding  by  the  verandah  for  some  time, 
my  head  still  rushing  on  in  the  race.  At 
length  the  master  said,  ''  Will  you  not  come 
in?" 

I  knew  that  he  was  treating  me  for  a 
drunken  man;  and  the  giddiness  was  so 
dreadful  still,  that  my  attempts  at  speech 
seemed  even  more  drunken  than  my  gait. 

As  soon  as  I  could  stand,  I  went  into  the 
house,  and  drew  near  to  an  excellent  fire  in 
my  dripping  clothes.  The  squatter  sat  op- 
posite to  me  in  silence,  reading  the  news- 
papers, and  taking  a  look  at  me  now  and 
again  over  his  spectacles.  By-and-bye  he 
remarked,  "  Wouldn't  it  be  worth  while  to 
change  your  clothes  ?  " 

Speech  was  now  returning  to  me.  I  re- 
plied, "  Yes,  but  my  bag  is  coming  on  in 
the  cart,  and  may  not  be  here  to-night." 

He  began  to  relent.  He  took  me  into  a 
room,  and  laid  out  for  me  a  suit  of  his  own. 
I  being  then  very  slender,  and  he  a  big- 
framed    farmer,    my    new    dress,    though 


A  Twenty-mile  Ride  3  9 

greatly  adding  to  my  comfort,  enhanced  the 
singularity  of  my  appearance. 

Returning  to  him,  washed  and  dressed, 
I  inquired  if  he  had  arranged  for  a  meet- 
ing? My  tongue,  I  fear,  was  still  unsteady, 
for  the  squatter  looked  at  me  rather  re- 
proachfully, and  said,  "  Do  you  really  con- 
sider yourself  fit  to  appear  before  a  meeting 
to-night?" 

I  assured  him  that  he  was  quite  wrong 
in  his  suspicions,  that  I  was  a  Ufe-long 
abstainer,  and  that  my  nerves  had  been  so 
unhinged  by  the  terrible  ride  and  the  run- 
away horse.  He  smiled  rather  suggestively, 
and  said  we  would  see  how  I  felt  after  tea. 

We  went  to  the  table.  All  that  had  oc- 
curred was  now  consummated  by  my  ap- 
pearing in  the  lusty  farmer's  clothes ;  and 
the  lady  and  other  friends  had  infinite  diffi- 
culty in  keeping  their  amusement  within 
decent  bounds.  I  again  took  speech  in 
hand,  but  I  suspect  my  words  had  still  the 
thickness  of  the  tippler's  utterance,  for  they 
seemed  not  to  carry  much  conviction — 
"  Dear  friends,  I  quite  understand  your 
feelings;  appearances  are  so  against  me. 
But  I  am  not  drunken,  as  ye  suppose.  I 
have  tasted  no  intoxicating  drink,  I  am  a 
life-long  Total  Abstainer !  " 

This    fairly    broke    down    their    reserve. 


40  John  G.  Paton 

They  laughed  aloud,  looking  at  each  other 
and  at  me,  as  if  to  say,  ''  Man,  you're  drunk 
at  this  very  moment." 

Before  tea  was  over  they  appeared,  how- 
ever, to  begin  to  entertain  the  idea  that  I 
might  address  the  meeting;  and  so  I  was 
informed  of  the  arrangements  that  had  been 
made.  At  the  meeting,  my  incredulous 
friends  became  deeply  interested.  Mani- 
festly their  better  thoughts  were  gaining 
ascendency.  And  they  heaped  thereafter 
every  kindness  upon  me,  as  if  to  make 
amends  for  harder  suspicions. 

Next  morning  the  master  drove  me  about 
ten  miles  further  to  the  church.  A  groom 
rode  the  race-horse,  who  took  no  scathe 
from  his  thundering  gallop  of  the  day  be- 
fore. It  left  deeper  traces  upon  me.  I  got 
through  the  services,  however,  and  with 
good  returns  for  the  Mission.  Twice  since 
on  my  Mission  tours,  I  have  found  myself 
at  that  same  memorable  house ;  and  on  each 
occasion  a  large  company  of  friends  was 
being  regaled  by  the  good  lady  there  with 
very  comical  descriptions  of  my  first  arrival 
at  her  door. 


NELWANG'S  ELOPEMENT 
From  "John  G.  Paton",   Vol.  I. 

Some  most  absurd  experiences  were 
forced  upon  us  by  the  habits  and  notions 
of  the  people.  Amongst  these  I  recall  very 
vividly  the  story  of  Nelwang's  elopement. 
I  had  begun  to  lay  the  foundation  of  two 
additional  rooms  for  our  house,  and  felt 
rather  uneasy  to  see  a  well-known  savage 
hanging  around  with  his  tomahawk,  and 
eagerly  watching  me  at  work.  He  had 
killed  a  man  before  our  arrival  on  Aniwa,^ 
and  he  had  startled  my  wife  by  suddenly 
appearing  from  among  our  boxes,  and 
causing  her  to  run  for  her  life. 

On  seeing  him  hovering  so  alarmingly 
near,  tomahawk  in  hand,  I  saluted  him, 
*'  Nelwang,  do  you  want  to  speak  to  me?  " 

"Yes,  Missi,"  he  replied;** if  you  will 
help  me  now  I  will  be  your  friend  forever." 

I  answered :  "  I  am  your  friend.  That 
brought  me  here.    How  can  I  help  you  ?  " 

*  An  island  of  the  New  Hebrides  group. 

41 


42  John  G.  Paton 

He  answered  quickly,  "  I  want  to  get 
married.'^ 

I  protested :  "  Nelwang,  you  know  that 
marriages  here  are  all  made  in  infancy,  by 
children  being  bought  and  betrothed  to  their 
future  husbands.  How  can  I  interfere? 
You  don't  want  to  bring  evil  on  me  and 
my  wife  and  child?  It  might  cost  us  our 
lives." 

"  No !  no !  Missi/'  earnestly  retorted  Nel- 
wang. "  No  one  hears  of  this.  Only  help 
me  now.  You  tell  me,  if  you  were  in  my 
circumstances,  how  would  you  act?" 

"  That's  surely  very  simple,"  I  answered. 
"  Every  man  knows  how  to  go  about  the 
business !  Find  out  if  your  intended  loves 
you,  and  the  rest  will  follow  naturally — 
you  will  marry  her." 

"  Yes,"  argued  Nelwang,  "  But  just  there 
my  trouble  comes  in !  " 

"  Do  you  know  the  woman  you  would 
Hke  to  get,  "  I  asked., 

"  Yes,"  he  replied  very  frankly,  "  I  want 
to  marry  Yakin,  the  chief  widow  up  at  the 
inland  village,  and  that  will  break  no  in- 
fant betrothals." 

"  But,"  I  persevered,  *'  Do  you  know  if 
she  loves  you  ?  " 

"  Yes,"  replied  Nelwang ;  "  One  day  I 
met  her  on  the  path  and  told  her  I  would 


Nelwang*s  Elopement  43 

like  to  have  her  for  my  wife.  She  took 
out  her  earrings  and  gave  them  to  me,  and 
I  know  thereby  that  she  loves  me.  I  was 
one  of  her  late  husband's  men;  and  if  she 
had  loved  any  of  them  more  than  me,  she 
would  have  given  them  to  another.  With 
the  earrings  she  gave  me  her  heart." 

"  Then  why  don't  you  go  and  marry 
her?" 

"  There  begins  my  difficulty,"  said  Nel- 
wang  gravely.  "  In  her  village  there  are 
thirty  young  men  for  whom  there  are  no 
wives.  Each  of  them  wants  her,  but  no  one 
has  the  courage  to  take  her,  for  the  other 
nine-and-twenty  will  shoot  him." 

"  And  if  you  take  her,"  I  suggested, 
"  the  disappointed  thirty  will  shoot  you." 

'*'  That's  exactly  what  I  see,  Missi,"  con- 
tinued Nelwang ;  "  But  I  want  you  to  just 
think  you  are  in  my  place,  and  tell  me  how 
you  would  carry  her  off.  You  white  men 
can  always  succeed.  Missi,  hear  my  plans 
and  advise  me." 

With  as  serious  a  face  as  I  could  com- 
mand, I  had  to  enter  into  his  love  affair, 
and  to  make  suggestions,  with  a  view  to 
avoiding  bloodshed.  The  result  of  the  de- 
liberations was  that  Nelwang  was  to  se- 
cure the  confidence  of  two  friends,  place 
one  at  each  end  of  the  corral  above  the  vil- 


44  John  G.  Paton 

lage  as  watchmen,  cut  down  with  his  Ameri- 
can tomahawk  a  passage  through  the  fence 
at  the  back,  and  carry  off  his  bride  at  dead 
of  night  into  the  safety  and  seclusion  of  the 
bush! 

Nelwang's  eyes  flashed  as  he  struck  his 
tomahawk  into  a  tree,  and  cried,  "  I  see  it 
now,  Missi !  I  shall  win  her  from  them 
all.  Yakin  and  I  will  be  strong  for  you  all 
our  days !  " 

Next  morning  Yakin's  house  was  found 
deserted.  They  sent  to  all  the  villages 
around,  but  no  one  had  seen  her.  The 
hole  in  the  fence  v/as  then  discovered,  and 
the  thirty  whispered  to  each  other  that 
Yakin  had  been  wooed  and  won  by  some 
daring  lover.  Messengers  were  despatched 
to  all  the  villages,  and  Nelvv^ang  was  found 
to  have  disappeared  on  the  same  night  as 
the  widow,  and  neither  could  anywhere  be 
found. 

The  usual  revenge  was  taken.  The  houses 
of  the  offenders  were  burned,  their  fences 
broken  down,  and  all  their  property  either 
destroyed  or  distributed.  Work  was  sus- 
pended, and  the  disappointed  thirty  solaced 
themselves  by  feasting  at  Yakin's  expense. 
Three  weeks  passed.  The  runaways  were 
nowhere  to  be  found.  It  was  generally  be- 
lieved that  they  had  gone  in  a  canoe  to 


Nelwang's  Elopement  45 

Tanna  or  Erromanga.  But  one  morning, 
as  I  began  my  work  on  my  house  alone,  the 
brave  Nelwang  appeared  at  my  side! 

"  Hillo !  "  I  said,  "  Where  have  you  come 
from  ?  and  where  is  Yakin  ?  " 

"  I  must  not  tell  you  yet,"  he  replied. 
"  We  are  hid.  We  have  lived  on  cocoa-nuts 
gathered  at  night.  Yakin  is  well  and  happy. 
I  come  now  to  fulfil  my  promise :  I  will  help 
you,  and  Yakin  will  help  Missi  Paton,  the 
woman.  I  have  ground  to  be  built  upon, 
whenever  we  dare;  but  we  will  come  and 
live  with  you  until  peace  is  secured.  Will 
you  let  us  come  to-morrow  morning  ?  " 

"  All  right,"  I  said,  "  Come  to-morrow  !  " 
And  trembling  with  delight,  he  disappeared 
into  the  bush. 

Thus  strangely  God  provided  us  with 
wonderful  assistance.  Yakin  soon  learned 
to  wash  and  dress  and  clean  everything,  and 
Nelwang  served  me  like  a  faithful  disciple. 
They  clung  to  us  like  our  very  shadow, 
partly  through  fear  of  attack,  partly  from 
affection ;  but  as  each  of  them  could  handle 
freely  both  musket  and  tomahawk,  which, 
though  laid  aside,  were  never  far  away,  it 
was  not  every  enemy  that  cared  to  try  issues 
with  Nelwang  and  his  bride. 

After  a  few  weeks  had  thus  passed  by, 
and  both  of  them  were  really  showing  an 


4.6  John  G.  Paton 

interest  in  things  pertaining  to  Jesus  and 
His  Gospel,  I  urged  them  strongly  to  appear 
publicly  at  the  Church  on  Sabbath,  to  show 
that  they  were  determined  to  stand  their 
ground  together  as  true  husband  and  wife. 
Delay  now  could  gain  no  purpose,  and  I 
wished  the  strife  and  uncertainty  to  be  put 
to  an  end. 

Nelwang  knew  our  customs.  Every  wor- 
shipper has  to  be  seated,  \vhen  our  little 
bell  ceases  ringing.  Aniwans  would  be 
ashamed  to  enter  after  the  Service  had  actu- 
ally begun.  As  the  bell  ceased,  Nelwang 
marched  in,  dressed  in  shirt  and  kilt,  and 
grasping  very  determinedly  his  tomahawk! 
He  sat  down  as  near  to  me  as  he  could 
conveniently  get,  trying  hard  to  conceal  his 
manifest  agitation.  Slightly  smiling  to- 
wards me,  he  then  turned  and  looked 
eagerly  at  the  door  through  which  the 
women  entered  the  Church,  as  if  to  say, 
"  Yakin  is  coming !  "  But  his  tomahawk 
was  poised  ominously  on  his  shoulder,  and 
his  courage  gave  him  a  defiant  and  almost 
impudent  air.  He  was  evidently  quite  ready 
to  sell  his  Hfe  at  a  high  price,  if  any  one 
was  prepared  to  risk  the  consequences. 

In  a  few  seconds  Yakin  appeared;  and 
if  Nelwang's  bearing  and  appearance  were 
rather  inconsistent  v/ith  the  feeling  of  wor- 


Nelwang's  Elopement  47 

ship — what  on  earth  was  I  to  do  when  the 
figure  and  costume  of  Yakin  began  to  re- 
veal itself  marching  in?  The  first  visible 
difference  betwixt  a  Heathen  and  a  Chris- 
tian is — that  the  Christian  wears  some 
clothing,  the  Heathen  wears  none.  Yakin 
determined  to  show  the  extent  of  her  Chris- 
tianity by  the  amount  of  clothing  she  could 
carry  upon  her  person.  Being  a  Chief's 
widow  before  she  became  Nelwang's  bride, 
she  had  some  idea  of  state  occasions,  and 
appeared  dressed  in  every  article  of  Euro- 
pean apparel,  mostly  portions  of  male  attire, 
that  she  could  beg  or  borrow  about  the 
premises ! 

Her  bridal  gown  was  a  man's  drab- 
coloured  great-coat,  put  on  above  her 
Native  grass  skirts,  and  sweeping  down  to 
her  heels,  buttoned  tight.  Over  this  she  had 
hung  on  a  vest,  and  above  that  again,  most 
amazing  of  all,  she  had  superinduced  a  pair 
of  men's  trousers,  drawing  the  body  over 
her  head,  and  leaving  a  leg  dangling  grace- 
fully over  each  of  her  shoulders,  and  stream- 
ing down  her  back.  Fastened  to  the  one 
shoulder  also  there  was  a  red  shirt,  and  to 
the  other  a  striped  shirt,  waving  about  her 
like  wings  as  she  sailed  along.  Around  her 
head  a  red  shirt  had  been  twisted  like  a  tur- 
ban, and  her  notions  of  art  demanded  that 


48  John  G.  Paton 

a  sleeve  thereof  should  hang  aloft  over  each 
of  her  ears !  She  seemed  to  be  a  moving 
monster,  loaded  with  a  mass  of  rags.  The 
day  was  excessively  hot,  and  the  perspira- 
tion poured  over  her  face  in  streams.  She, 
too,  sat  as  near  to  me  as  she  could  get  on 
the  woman's  side  of  the  Church. 

Nelwang  looked  at  me,  and  then  at  her, 
smiling  quietly,  as  if  to  say,  "  You  never 
saw,  in  all  your  white  world,  a  bride  so 
grandly  dressed !  ** 

I  little  thought  what  I  was  bringing  on 
myself  when  I  urged  them  to  come  to 
Church.  The  sight  of  that  poor  creature 
sweltering  before  me  constrained  me  for 
once  to  make  the  service  very  short — per- 
haps the  shortest  I  ever  conducted  in  all  my 
life!  The  day  ended  in  peace.  The  two 
souls  were  extremely  happy ;  and  I  praised 
God  that  what  might  have  been  a  scene  of 
bloodshed  had  closed  thus,  even  though  it 
were  in  a  kind  of  wild  grotesquerie ! 


THE  SINKING  OF  THE  WELL      . 
From  "John  G.  Paton",  Vol.  II. 

It  was  the  Sinking  of  the  Well  that  broke 
the  back  of  Heathenism  on  Aniwa.^  Being 
a  flat  coral  island,  with  no  hills  to  attract  the 
clouds,  rain  is  scarce  there  as  compared  with 
the  adjoining  mountainous  islands;  and 
even  when  it  does  fall  heavily,  with  tropical 
profusion,  it  disappears  through  the  light 
soil  and  porous  rock,  and  drains  itself  di- 
rectly into  the  sea.  Aniwa  had,  therefore, 
no  permanent  supply  of  [  fresh  water,  in 
spring  or  stream  or  lake.' 

My  own  household  felt  the  want  of  it 
sadly,  and  I  resolved  by  the  help  of  God  to 
sink  a  well  near  the  Mission  Premises,  hop- 
ing that  a  wisdom  higher  than  my  own 
would  guide  me  to  the  source  of  some 
blessed  spring.  Of  the  scientific  conditions 
of  such  an  experiment  I  was  completely 
ignorant;  but  I  counted  on  having  to  dig 
through  the  earth  and  coral  above  thirty 
feet,  and  my  constant  fear  was,  that  owing 

*  An  island  of  the  New  Hebrides  group. 
49 


50  John  G.  Paton 

to  our  environment,  the  water,  if  water  I 
found,  could  only  be  salt  water  after  all  my 
toils !  Still  I  resolved  to  sink  that  shaft  in 
hope,  and  in  faith  that  the  Son  of  God  would 
be  glorified  thereby. 

One  morning  I  said  to  the  old  Chief  and 
his  fellow-Chief,  both  now  earnestly  inquir- 
ing about  the  religion  of  Jehovah  and  of 
Jesus,  "  I  am  going  to  sink  a  well  deep  down 
into  the  earth,  to  see  if  our  God  will  send 
us  fresh  water  up  from  below." 

They  looked  at  me  with  astonishment, 
and  said  in  a  tone  of  sympathy  approaching 
to  pity,  "  O  Missi !  Wait  till  the  rain  come 
down,  and  we  will  save  all  we  possibly  can 
for  you." 

I  replied,  "  We  may  all  die  for  lack  of 
water.  If  no  fresh  water  can  be  got,  we 
may  be  forced  to  leave  you.'* 

The  old  Chief  looked  imploringly  and 
said :  "  O  Missi  I  you  must  not  leave  us  for 
that.  Rain  comes  only  from  above.  How 
could  you  expect  our  Island  to  send  up 
showers  from  below  ?  " 

I  told  him :  "  Fresh  water  does  come  up 
springing  from  the  earth  in  my  Land  at 
home,  and  I  hope  to  see  it  here  also." 

The  old  Chief  grew  more  tender  in  his 
tones,  and  cried :  "  O  Missi !  your  head  is 
going  wrong,  or  you  would  not  talk  wild 


The  Sinking  of  the  Well         51 

like  that!  Don't  let  our  people  hear  you 
talking  about  going  down  into  the  earth  for 
rain,  or  they  will  never  listen  to  your  v/ord, 
or  believe  you  again/' 

But  I  started  upon  my  hazardous  job, 
selecting  a  spot  near  the  Mission  Station, 
and  close  to  the  public  path,  that  my  pros- 
pective well  might  be  useful  to  all.  When 
I  began  to  dig,  the  good  old  Chief  told  off 
his  men  in  relays  to  watch  me,  lest  I  should 
attempt  to  take  my  own  life,  or  do  anything 
outrageous,  saying,  "  Poor  Missi !  that's 
the  way  with  all  who  go  mad.  There's  no 
driving  of  a  notion  out  of  their  heads.  We 
must  watch  him  now.  He  will  find  it 
harder  to  work  with  pick  and  spade  than 
with  his  pen,  and  when  he's  tired  we'll  per- 
suade him  to  give  it  up." 

I  did  get  exhausted  sooner  than  I  ex- 
pected, toiling  under  the  tropical  sun;  but 
we  never  own  before  the  natives  that  we 
are  beaten,  so  I  went  into  the  house  and 
filled  my  vest  pocket  with  large,  beautiful, 
English-made  fish-hooks.  These  are  very 
tempting  to  the  young  men,  though  their 
own,  skilfully  made  out  of  shell,  serve  their 
purpose  wonderfully.  Holding  up  a  large 
hook,  I  cried,  ''  One  of  these  to  every  man 
who  fills  and  turns  over  three  buckets  out 
of  this  hole !  " 


52  John  G.  Paton 

A  rush  was  made  to  get  the  first  turn, 
and  bucket  after  bucket  was  filled  and 
emptied  rapidly.  Still  the  shaft  seemed  to 
lower  very  slowly,  while  my  fish-hooks  were 
disappearing  very  quickly.  I  took  the  heavy 
share  of  everything,  and  was  thankful  one 
evening  to  find  that  Vv^e  had  cleared  more 
than  twelve  feet  deep, — v/hen  lo!  next 
morning,  one  side  had  caved  in,  and  our 
work  was  all  undone. 

The  old  Chief  and  his  best  men  now 
came  around  me  more  earnestly  than  ever. 
He  remonstrated  with  me  very  gravely. 
He  assured  me  for  the  fiftieth  time  that 
rain  would  never  be  seen  coming  up  through 
the  earth  on  Aniwa! 

"  Now,"  he  said,  *'  had  you  been  in  that 
hole  last  night,  you  would  have  been  buried, 
and  a  Man-of-war  would  have  come  from 
Queen  'Toria  to  ask  for  the  Missi  that 
lived  here.  We  would  say,  '  Down  in  that 
hole.'  The  Captain  would  ask,  *  Who  put 
him  down  there  ? '  We  would  have  to  say, 
*  He  went  down  there  himself ! '  The  Cap- 
tain would  answer,  '  Nonsense !  who  ever 
heard  of  a  white  man  going  down  into  the 
earth  to  bury  himself?  You  killed  him, 
you  put  him  there;  don't  hide  your  bad 
conduct  with  lies ! '  Then  he  would  bring 
out  his  big  guns  and  shoot  us  in  revenge. 


The  Sinking  of  the  Well         53 

You  are  making  your  own  grave,  Missi,  and 
you  will  make  ours  too.  Give  up  this  mad 
freak,  for  no  rain  will  be  found  by  going 
downwards  on  Aniwa.  Besides,  all  your 
fish-hooks  cannot  tempt  my  men  again  to 
enter  that  hole ;  they  don't  want  to  be  buried 
with  you.    Will  you  not  give  it  up  now  ?  " 

I  said  all  I  could  to  quiet  his  fears,  ex- 
plained to  them  that  this  falling  in  had 
happened  by  my  own  neglect  of  precau- 
tions, and  finally  made  known  that  by  the 
help  of  my  God,  even  without  all  other 
help,  I  meant  to  persevere. 

Steeping  my  poor  brains  over  the  problem, 
I  became  an  extemporized  engineer.  Two 
trees  were  searched  for,  with  branches  on 
opposite  sides.  I  sank  these  on  each  side 
firmly  into  the  ground,  and  passed  a  beam 
across  them,  over  the  centre  of  the  shafts, 
fastened  there  on  a  rude,  home-made  pully 
and  block,  passed  a  rope  over  the  wheel, 
and  swung  my  largest  bucket  to  the  end 
of  it.  Thus  equipped  I  began  once  more  to 
sink  the  well. 

Not  a  native,  however,  would  enter  the 
hole,  and  I  had  to  dig  away  till  I  was 
utterly  exhausted.  But  a  Teacher,  in  whom 
I  had  confidence,  took  charge  above,  mana- 
ging to  hire  them  with  knives,  axes,  etc., 
to  seize  the  end  of  rope  and  walk  along 


54  John  G.  Paton 

pulling  it  till  the  bucket  rose  to  the  sur- 
face, and  then  he  himself  swung  it  aside, 
emptied  it,  and  lowered  it  down  again. 
Thus  I  toiled  on  from  day  to  day,  my 
heart  almost  sinking  sometimes  with  the 
sinking  of  the  well,  till  we  reached  a  depth 
of  about  thirty  feet.  And  the  phrase, 
''  Living  water,"  ''  Living  water,"  kept 
chiming  through  my  soul  like  music  from 
God! 

At  this  depth  the  earth  and  coral  began 
to  be  soaked  with  damp.  I  felt  that  we, 
were  nearing  water.  My  soul  had  a  faith 
that  God  would  open  a  spring  for  us;  but 
side  by  side  with  this  faith  was  a  strange 
terror  that  the  water  would  be  salt.  So 
perplexing  and  mixed  are  even  the  highest 
experiences  of  the  soul ;  the  rose-flower  of  a 
perfect  faith,  set  round  and  round  with 
prickly  thorns. 

One  evening  I  said  to  the  old  Chief,  "  I 
think  that  Jehovah  God  will  give  us  water 
to-morrow  from  that  hole !  " 

The  Chief  said,  ''No,  Missi;  you  will 
never  see  rain  coming  up  from  the  earth 
on  this  island.  We  wonder  what  is  to  be 
the  end  of  this  mad  work  of  yours.  We 
expect  daily,  if  you  reach  water,  to  see  you 
drop  into  the  sea,  and  the  sharks  will  eat 


The  Sinking  of  the  Well         55 

you!  That  will  be  the  end  of  it;  death  to 
you,  and  danger  to  us  all." 

I  still  answered,  "  Come  to-morrow.  I 
believe  that  Jehovah  God  will  send  us  the 
rain  water  up  through  the  earth."  I  knew 
I  was  risking  much,  and  probably  incurring 
sorrowful  consequences,  had  no  water  been 
given;  but  I  had  faith  that  God  was  lead- 
ing me  on,  and  I  knew  that  I  sought  His 
glory,  not  my  own.         . 

Next  morning,  I  went  down  again  at 
daybreak,  and  sank  a,  narrow  hole  in  the 
center  about  two  feet  deep.  The  perspira- 
tion broke  over  me  with  uncontrollable  ex- 
citement, and  I  trembled  through  every 
limb,  when  the  water  rushed  up  and  began 
to  fill  the  hole!  Muddy  though  it  was,  I 
eagerly  tasted  it,  and  the  little  "  tinny " 
dropped  from  my  hand  with  sheer  joy,  and 
I  almost  fell  upon  my  knees  in  that  muddy 
bottom  to  praise  the  Lord.  It  was  water! 
It  was  fresh  water!  It  was  living  water 
from  Jehovah's  well !  True,  it  was  a  little 
brackish,  but  nothing  to  speak  of;  and  no 
spring  In  the  desert,  cooling  the  parched 
lips  of  a  fevered  pilgrim,  ever  appeared 
more  worthy  of  being  called  a  Well  of  God 
than  did  that  water  to  me ! 

The  Chiefs  had  assembled  with  their  men 


56  John  G.  Paton 

near  by.  THey  waited  on  in  eager  ex- 
pectancy. It  was  a  rehearsal,  in  a  small 
way,  of  the  Israelites  coming  around,  while 
Moses  struck  the  rock  and  called  for  water. 
By-and-bye,  when  I  had  praised  the  Lord, 
and  my  excitement  was  a  little  calmed,  the 
mud  being  also  greatly  settled,  I  filled  a 
jug  which  I  had  taken  down  empty  in  the 
sight  of  them  all,  and  ascending  to  the 
top  called  for  them  to  come  and  see  the 
rain  which  Jehovah  God  had  given  us 
through  the  well.  They  closed  around  me 
in  haste,  and  gazed  on  it  in  superstitious 
fear.  The  old  Chief  shook  it  to  see  if  it 
would  spill,  and  then  touched  it  to  see  if 
it  felt  like  water.  At  last  he  tasted  it,  and 
rolling  it  in  his  mouth  with  joy  for  a 
moment,  he  swallowed  It  and  shouted, 
"  Rain !  Rain !  Yes,  it  is  rain  !  But  how  did 
you  get  it  ?  " 

I  repeated,  ''Jehovah,  my  God,  gave  it 
out  of  his  own  Earth,  in  answer  to  our  la- 
bours and  prayers.  Go  and  see  it  springing 
up  for  yourselves  !  " 

Now,  though  every  man  could  cHmbthe 
highest  tree  as  swiftly  and  fearlessly  as  a 
squirrel,  not  one  of  them  had  courage  to 
walk  to  the  side  and  gaze  down  into  that 
well.  To  them  this  was  miraculous!  But 
they  were  not  without  a  resource  that  met 


The  Sinking  of  the  Well         57 

the  emergency.  They  agreed  to  take  firm 
hold  of  each  other  by  the  hand,  to  place 
themselves  in  a  long  line,  the  foremost 
man  to  lean  cautiously  forward,  gaze  into 
the  well,  and  then  pass  to  the  rear,  and  so 
on  till  all  had  seen  "  Jehovah's  rain  "  far 
below.  It  was  somewhat  comical,  yet  far 
more  pathetic,  to  stand  by  and  watch  their 
faces,  as  m.an  after  man  peered  down  into 
the  mystery,  and  then  looked  up  at  me  in 
blank  bewilderment! 

When  all  had  seen  it  with  their  own  eyes 
and  were  ''  weak  with  wonder,"  the  old 
Chief  exclaimed,  "  Missi,  wonderful,  won- 
derful, is  the  work  of  your  Jehovah  God! 
No  god  of  Aniwa  ever  helped  us  in  this 
way.  But,  Missi,"  continued  he,  after  a 
pause  that  looked  like  silent  worship,  '*  Will 
it  always  rain  up  through  the  earth  ?  or  will 
it  come  and  go  like  the  rain  from  the 
clouds  ?  " 

I  told  them  that  I  believed  it  would  al- 
ways continue  there  for  our  use,  as  a  good 
gift  from  Jehovah. 

"Well,  but,  Missi,"  replied  the  Chief, 
some  ghmmering  of  self-interest  beginning 
to  strike  his  brain,  "  Will  your  family  drink 
it  all,  or  shall  we  also  have  some  ?  " 

"  You  and  all  the  people  of  the  Island 
may  come  and  drink  and  carry  away  as 


58  John  G.  Paton 

much  of  it  as  you  wish,"  I  answered.  "  I 
beHeve  there  will  always  be  plenty  for  us 
all,  and  the  more  of  it  we  can  use  the 
fresher  it  will  be.  That  is  the  way  with 
many  of  our  Jehovah's  best  gifts  to  men, 
and  for  it  we  praise  His  name !  " 

The  Chief  looked  at  me  eagerly,  fully 
convinced  at  last  that  the  well  contained  a 
treasure,  and  exclaimed,  "  Missi,  what  can 
we  do  to  help  you  now  ?  "  , 

I  was  thankful  indeed  to  accept  of  his 
assistance,  and  said,  "  You  have  seen  it  fall 
in  once  already.  In  order  to  preserve  it 
we  must  build  it  round  and  round  with 
great  blocks  of  coral  from  the  bottom  to  the 
very  top." 

With  all  their  heart  and  will  they  started 
on  the  job,  till  the  wall  rose  like  magic. 
Women,  boys  and  all  wished  to  have  a 
hand  in  building  it,  and  it  remains  to  this 
day  one  of  the  greatest  material  blessings 
the  Lord  has  given  to  Aniwa.  Very 
strangely,  though  the  Natives  themselves 
have  since  tried  to  sink  six  or  seven  wells 
in  the  most  likely  places  near  their  villages, 
they  have  either  come  to  coral  rock  which 
they  could  not  pierce,  or  found  only  water 
that  was  salt.  And  they  say  among  them- 
selves, "  Missi,  not  only  used  pick  and 
spade,  but  he  prayed  and  cried  to  his  God. 


The  Sinking  of  the  Well         59 

We  have  learned  to  dig,  but  not  how  to 
pray,  and  therefore  Jehovah  will  not  give 
us  rain  from  below  !  " 

When  the  well  was  finished,  the  old 
Chief  said,  "  Missi,  I  think  I  could  help  you 
next  Sabbath.  Will  you  let  me  preach  a 
sermon  on  the  well  ?  " 

"  Yes,"  I  replied,  '*  If  you  will  bring  all 
the  people  to  hear  you." 

Sabbath  came  around.  Aniwa  assembled 
in  what  was,  for  that  island,  a  great  crowd. 
I  conducted  short  opening  devotions,  and 
then  called  upon  the  old  Chief.  He  rose  at 
once,  with  eye  flashing  wildly,  and  his  limbs 
twitching  with  emotion.  He  spoke  with 
powerful  effect,  swinging  his  tomahawk  to 
enforce  every  eloquent  gesticulation. 

This  address  and  the  Sinking  of  the  Well, 
broke  the  back  of  Heathenism  on  Aniwa. 
That  very  afternoon  the  old  Chief  and 
several  of  his  people  brought  their  idols 
and  cast  them  down  at  my  feet.  Oh,  the 
intense  excitement  of  the  weeks  that  fol- 
lowed! Company  after  company  came 
loaded  with  their  gods  of  wood  and  stone. 
What  could  be  burned  we  cast  into  the 
flames;  others  v/e  buried  in  pits  twelve  or 
fifteen  feet  deep ;  and  some  few,  more  likely 
to  feed  or  awaken  superstition,  we  sank  far 
out  into  the  deep  sea. 


6o  John  G.  Paton 

Heathen  worship  was  gradually  extin- 
guished and  though  no  one  was  compelled  to 
come  to  church,  every  person  on  Aniwa, 
without  exception,  became  an  avowed  wor- 
shipper of  Jehovah  God.  Again,  "  O 
Galilean,  Thou  hast  conquered ! '' 


VII 

THE  PENTECOST  ON  THE  CONGO 

From  "  The  New  Acts  of  the  Apostles  "  by  the 
Rev.  Arthur  T.  Pierson,  D.D.  Reprinted  by 
the  kind  permission  of  The  Baker  and  Taylor 
Company,  publishers. 

Few  tales  of  missionary  experience  sur- 
pass for  thrilling  interest  that  of  the  work 
at  Banza  Manteke.  In  1879,  Rev.  Henry 
Richards  went  from  England  as  missionary 
of  the  Livingstone  Inland  Mission,  and,  at 
Banza  Manteke,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Congo,  established 
a  mission  station,  afterwards  transferred  to 
the  American  Baptist  Missionary  Union. 

The  people  there  believed  in  a  great  Crea- 
tor, who  made  all  things,  but  they  did  not 
worship  him  because  they  did  not  think  him 
a  good  God,  worthy  of  praise  and  adora- 
tion. He  did  not  concern  himself  about 
them ;  he  was  too  far  away.  They  had  little 
images  cut  out  of  wood — some  like  them- 
selves, only  with  birds'  heads,  beaks  and 
claws ;  others  like  animals.  They  trusted 
in  these  idols  to  save  them  from  sickness, 
death  and  disaster,  but  expected  no  direct 
6i 


62        New  Acts  of  the  Apostles 

blessings  from  them.  They  also  believed 
in  witchcraft,  to  which  they  attributed  all 
evils  and  misfortunes,  and  which  they 
counteracted  by  charms.  If  any  one  was 
sick,  they  sent  for  the  witch-doctors,  who 
with  many  incantations,  drove  out  the 
demon,  or  pointed  out  some  person  as  the 
witch. 

Mr.  Richards  sought  to  show  them  that 
sickness,  death  and  other  calamities,  are  not 
due  to  witchcraft,  but  to  sin.  He  gave  them 
the  Bible  account  of  creation,  the  fall,  etc., 
and  tried  to  show  that  God  is  not  only  a 
great,  all  powerful  Creator,  but  a  kind  and 
loving  Father.  For  four  years  he  pursued 
this  course,  thinking  it  necessary  to  give 
them  some  idea  of  the  Old  Testament  be- 
fore beginning  with  the  New.  But  at  the 
end  of  this  time  they  were  just  as  rank 
heathen  as  when  he  first  went  among  them. 
There  was  no  evidence  of  any  change. 
They  did  not  even  feel  themselves  to  be 
sinners. 

Then  Mr.  Richards  went  home  for  a 
season  of  rest,  and  while  there,  spoke  to 
one  who  had  had  much  experience  in  mis- 
sion work,  seeking  a  clew  to  his  maze  of 
difficulty.  He  was  advised  to  go  back  and 
preach  the  lazv — for  that  convinces  of  sin. 
On  reaching  Banza  Manteke  again,  the  first 


Pentecost  on  the  Congo  6^ 

thin^  he  did  was  to  translate  the  Ten 
Commandments  and  expound  them  to  the 
people.  They  said  the  commandments  were 
very  good,  and  claimed  that  they  had  kept 
them;  but  the  plainest  and  most  personal 
applications  of  the  decalogue  made  no  ap- 
parent impression. 

Two  years  more  passed,  and  the  people 
were  no  better.  Mr.  Richards  began  to  be 
hopeless  of  doing  them  any  good.  He  had 
gained  their  respect,  and  they  were  kind  to 
him,  but  that  was  all.  At  last  in  his  dis- 
couragement, he  began  to  study  the  Scrip- 
tures anew  for  himself,  feeling  that  there 
must  be  some  mistake  in  his  preaching,  or 
lack  in  his  living.  In  the  Apostolic  days, 
souls  were  converted,  why  not  now? 
Surely  the  Gospel  had  not  lost  its  power. 
If  in  the  days  of  the  Acts  of  the  Apostles, 
heathen  turned  from  idols  to  serve  the 
living  God,  why  should  not  these  heathen 
in  Banza  Manteke? 

He  studied  the  Gospels  and  the  Acts  of 
the  Apostles,  and  began  to  see  that  the 
commission  is  not,  "  Go  ye  into  all  the  world 
and  preach  the  Lazv,"  but  "  preach  the  Gos- 
pel." That  was  the  turning  point  in  the 
work  of  this  lonely  and  disheartened  mis- 
sionary! He  determined  simply  to  preach 
the  Gospel.    Again  he  noticed  that  the  dis- 


64        New  Acts  of  the  Apostles 

ciples  were  bidden  to  wait  until  they  were 
endued  with  pozvcr  from  on  high.  He  re- 
turned to  his  work,  determined  not  only  to 
preach  the  Gospel,  but  cry  to  God  for  the 
promised  enduement. 

It  was  needful  to  decide  just  what 
"  Preaching  the  Gospel "  means.  If  he 
preached  Jesus  crucified,  the  people  would 
want  to  know  who  Jesus  was.  He  decided 
to  take  Luke's  Gospel  as  the  most  complete 
and  suitable  for  Gentiles.  He  began  trans- 
lating ten  or  twelve  verses  a  day,  and  then 
read  and  expounded  them,  asking  God  to 
bless  His  own  word.  At  once  his  dark 
hearers  proved  more  interested  than  when 
he  preached  the  law,  and  he  was  more  and 
more  encouraged. 

When  he  came  to  the  sixth  chapter  of 
Luke,  thirtieth  verse,  a  new  difficulty  arose 
— "  Give  to  every  man  that  asketh  of  thee." 
But  these  people  were  notorious  beggars; 
they  would  ask  for  anything  that  pleased 
their  eye — his  blanket,  his  knife,  his  plate — 
and  when  he  would  say  he  could  not  give 
these  things  to  them  they  would  reply, 
"  You  can  get  more." 

Henry  Richards  was  greatly  perplexed 
as  to  what  to  do  with  that  verse.  He  let 
his  helper  in  translation  go,  and  went  to 
his  room  to  pray  over  the  matter.    The  time 


Pentecost  on  the  Congo  65 

for  daily  service  was  drawing  near.  What 
should  he  do?  Why  not  pass  over  that 
verse?  But  conscience  replied  that  this 
would  not  be  honest  dealing  with  God's 
word.  The  preaching  hour  came ;  instead  of 
advancing,  he  went  back  to  the  beginning 
of  the  Gospel,  reviewing  the  earlier  part, 
to  gain  time  for  fuller  consideration  of  that 
perplexing  text.  Still,  on  further  study, 
he  could  not  find  that  it  meant  anything  hut 
just  zvhaf  it  said.  The  commentators  said, 
Jesus  was  giving  general  principles,  and 
we  must  use  common  sense  in  interpreting 
His  words.  But  this  did  not  satisfy  him. 
If  he  interpreted  one  text  this  way,  why 
not  all  others  ?  "  Common  sense  "  seemed 
a  very  unsafe  commentator. 

A  fortnight  of  prayer  and  consideration 
drove  him  to  the  wall :  The  Lord  meant 
just  what  He  said.  And  so  he  read  to  the 
people  that  verse,  "  Give  to  every  man  that 
asketh  of  thee,"  and  told  them  this  was  a 
very  high  standard,  but  he  meant  to  live 
what  he  preached.  After  the  address  the 
natives  began  to  ask  him  for  this  and  that, 
and  he  gave  them  whatever  they  asked  for, 
wondering  whereunto  this  thing  would 
grow ;  but  he  told  the  Lord  he  could  see  no 
other  meaning  in  His  words.  The  people 
were    evidently    deeply    impressed    by   his 


66        New  Acts  of  the  Apostles 

course.  One  day  he  overheard  one  say: 
"  I  got  this  from  the  white  man/'  Then 
another  said  that  he  was  going  to  ask  him 
for  such  a  thing.  But  a  third  said,  "  No, 
buy  it  if  you  want  it."  Another  said,  "  This 
must  be  God's  man,  we  never  saw  any  other 
man  do  so.  Don't  you  think  if  he  is  God's 
man  we  ought  to  stop  robbing  him?  "  Grace 
was  working  in  their  hearts.  After  that 
they  rarely  asked  him  for  anything,  and 
even  brought  back  what  they  had  taken! 

The  missionary  went  on  translating  and 
expounding  Luke's  Gospel,  and  the  interest 
continually  grew.  The  climax  was  reached 
as  he  came  to  the  account  of  the  crucifixion 
of  Christ.  A  large  congregation  confronted 
him  that  day.  He  reminded  the  people  of 
the  kindness  and  goodness  of  Jesus,  and  of 
His  works  of  mercy ;  and,  pointing  to  Him 
as  nailed  upon  the  cross  between  thieves, 
he  said:  ''Jesus  never  would  have  died  if 
we  had  not  been  sinners ;  it  was  because  of 
your  sins  and  mine  that  he  died."  The  im- 
pression was  very  deep.  The  Holy  Ghost 
seemed  to  have  fallen  upon  the  people! 

He  continued  preaching  the  Gospel  and 
seeking  Holy  Ghost  power.  One  day  as 
they  were  returning  from  a  service,  Lutale, 
who  helped  him  in  translation,  began  to 
sing  one  of  the  Congo  hymns.     His  face 


Pentecost  on  the  Congo         67 

shone  with  joy,  and  he  said :  "  I  do  believe 
these  words;  I  do  believe  Jesus  has  taken 
away  my  sins;  I  do  believe  He  has  saved 
me."  Seven  years  of  toil,  weary  waiting, 
and  suffering  had  passed,  and  now  the  first 
convert  was  found  at  Banza  Manteke! 

At  once,  Lutale  began  testifying  what  the 
Lord  had  done  for  him.  But  the  people 
became  his  enemies  and  tried  to  poison  him ; 
so  he  left  his  town  and  Hved  with  Mr. 
Richards  for  safety.  For  a  time  there  were 
no  more  converts,  but  the  people  were 
stirred.  By  and  by  the  King's  son  became 
a  Christian.  Shortly  after,  another  man 
came  with  his  idols,  and  placing  them  on 
a  table  said,  with  savage  determination,  "  I 
want  to  become  a  Christian,"  and  he  soon 
began  to  preach. 

The  work  went  until  ten  were  converted, 
but  all  had  to  leave  their  homes  as  they 
were  threatened  with  death.  The  mission- 
ary now  shut  up  his  house,  and  taking  these 
men  with  him,  went  from  town  to  town 
preaching  the  Gospel.  The  whole  com- 
munity was  greatly  moved;  one  after 
another  came  over  to  Christ's  side.  The 
work  continued  and  was  blest  until  all  the 
people  immediately  around  Banza  Manteke 
had  abandoned  their  heathenism!  More 
than  a  thousand  names  were  enrolled  in  a 


68        New  Acts  of  the  Apostles 

book  of  those  who  gave  evidence  of  real 
conversion. 

After  years  had  passed,  Mr.  Richards 
found  the  converts  holding  on  their  way. 
Those  who  had  been  thieves  and  liars,  now 
became  honest,  truthful,  industrious  and 
cleanly.  Witchcraft,  poison-giving,  and  all 
such  heathen  practices  had  been  put  away. 
They  brought  their  idols,  and  at  the  first 
baptism  had  a  bonfire  of  images  destroying 
every  vestige  of  idolatry ! 


VIII 

THE  POWER  OF  PRAYER:  HOW 
LI  HUNG  CHANG  BECAME  AN  AD- 
VOCATE OF  MEDICAL  MISSIONS 

From  "  John  Kenneth  Mackenzie,  Medical  Mis- 
sionary to  China ",  by  Mrs.  Bryson,  London 
Mission,  Tien-tsin. 

When  Dr.  Mackenzie  reached  Tien-tsin 
in  1879  the  prospect,  from  a  Medical  Mis- 
sion point  of  view,  looked  by  no  means 
bright. 

In  the  year  i860  the  surgeons  attached  to 
the  British  forces  quartered  in  that  city  had 
conducted  an  hospital  for  native  practice, 
which  was  the  means  of  extensive  useful- 
ness. On  the  departure  of  the  troops,  how- 
ever, the  institution  which  they  had  origi- 
nated was  closed,  and  though  several  at- 
tempts were  made  to  supply  its  place, 
nothing  was  effected  until  the  year  1869. 

At  that  time  Mr.  Lees,  senior  member  of 
the  mission  was  enabled,  by  the  kind  contri- 
butions of  the  Tien-tsin  foreign  community, 
to  rent  a  house  in  one  of  the  principal  thor- 
oughfares of  the  city,  and  engage  Mr.  Pai, 
69 


7o     Life  of  John  Kenneth  Mackenzie 

a    Christian    Chinese    dispenser    from    the 
Peking  hospital,  to  take  charge  of  it. 

Much  good  work  had  been  accomplished, 
but  when  Dr.  Mackenzie  arrived  he  found 
the  institution  destitute  of  funds  for  carry- 
ing on  its  benevolent  work.  In  a  letter  to 
a  friend  he  describes  the  state  of  things. 

"  Mr.  J'ai  had  no  money  to  buy  foreign 
drugs,  and  was  treating  his  patients  pretty 
much  after  the  native  fashion.  The  annual 
collection  taken  in  January  among  the 
foreign  residents  in  aid  of  the  dispensary, 
L failed  to  pay  off  the  outstanding  debt  up 
to  the  end  of  1878,  leaving  the  expenses  of 
1879  totally  unprovided  for.  Such  was  the 
state  of  things  when  I  arrived — no  money 
and  no  foreign  drugs.     At  our  committee 

^meeting  held  in  Peking  at  the  end  of  April, 
a  resolution  was  passed  asking  the  directors 
to  grant  me  money  for  drugs ;  but  this  could 
not  reach  me  for  at  least  five  months. 
What  was  I  to  do  in  the  interval? 
We  prayed  much  about  it — not  ourselves 
alone,  but  Mr.  Lees  and  the  other  brethren. 
It  was  a  time  of  great  spiritual  blessing  to 
me  personally;  I  was  brought  to  feel  there 
was  no  help  in  man,  but  that  God  would 

5.  open  a  way. 

^  "  In  thinking  over  many  plans  it  was  sug- 
gested that  we  should  draw  up  a  petition 


The  Power  of  Prayer  71 

to  the  Viceroy,  setting  forth  the  advantages  ^ 
of  establisHmg  an  hospital  for  the  benefit 
of  the  Chinese,  telHng  him  what  had  been 
done  elsewhere  in  medical  missionary  en- 
terprise, and  soliciting  his  aid. 

*'  We  hoped  that  by  clearly  showing  him 
the  terribly  neglected  state  of  the  city,  with 
its  numerous  accidents,  and  prevalent  sick- 
ness, we  might  move  him,  or  rather  God 
might  move  him,  and  incline  his  heart  to 
help  us  with  funds." 

A  memorial  was  drawn  up  in  Chinese, 
and  through  the  courtesy  of  a  consular 
friend,  was  presented  directly  to  His  Ex-  "" 
cellency  Li  Hung  Chang,  the  well-known 
ruler  of  the  metropolitan  province.  It  was 
sent  in  to  this  great  statesman  about  the 
middle  of  May,  but  was  set  aside  with  the 
comment  that  the  object  was  a  good  one 
and  he  would  consider  it. 

The  next  two  months  was  a  time  of  great  - 
anxiety.  Dr.  Mackenzie  says :  "  June 
passed  away  and  July  came  to  a  close,  and 
yet  not  a  word  of  reply  came  from  the 
Viceroy,  until  we  began  to  think  that  truly 
the  matter  had  been  shelved,  and  we  were 
to  hear  nothing  more  about  it.  We  were 
more  than  ever  thrown  back  upon  God.  I 
had  meanwhile  commenced  to  dispense  a 
few  foreign  drugs,  obtained  at  our  own  cost 


72      Life  of  John  Kenneth  Mackenzie 

at  Shanghai,  but  very  few  patients  came. 
I  never  had  more  than  twenty  in  a  day. 
Why  I  hardly  know  except  the  general  be- 
lief that  the  Tien-tsin  people  are  so  anti- 
foreign. '* 

At  last  the  weary  time  of  waiting  came 
to  an  end.  By  another  reference  to  what 
Tennyson  calls  ''  Those  fallen  leaves  that 
keep  their  green,  the  noble  letters  of  the 
dead,"  we  find  the  Doctor  gratefully  relat- 
ing how  God,  in  His  loving  kindness, 
answered  in  a  wonderful  and  totally  unex- 
pected fashion.  His  servants'  continued 
prayers. 

^  "  It  was  August  1st,  the  day  of  our  weekly 
prayer-meeting,  when  the  missionaries  and 
native  helpers  meet  for  prayer  and  consul- 
tation. Our  subject  that  morning  was, 
'Ask,  and  it  shall  be  given  you.'  Again 
we  pleaded  for  an  answer  to  the  memorial, 
and  that  God  would  remember  our  Medical 
Mission  needs.  While  we  were  praying, 
the  Lord  was  already  answering.  That 
very  morning,   a  member  of  the  English 

^Legation,  closeted  with  the  Viceroy  ob- 
served that  he  was  very  sad.  On  asking 
the  reason,  the  reply  was,  '  My  wife  is  seri- 

■    ously  ill — dying;  the  doctors  have  told  me 

\  this^  morning  that  she  cannot  live.'    *  Well,' 


The  Power  of  Prayer  73 

said  the  Englishman,  *  why  don't  you  get 
the  help  of  the  foreign  doctors  in  Tien- 
tsin? they  might  be  able  to  do  something 
even  yet.'  At  first  the  Viceroy  objected 
that  it  would  be  quite  impossible  for  a 
Chinese  lady  of  rank  to  be  attended  by  a 
foreigner;  but  by-and-bye  his  own  good 
sense,  led  by  God's  Spirit,  triumphed,  and 
he  sent  a  courier  to  the  foreign  settlement 
for  Dn  Irwin  and  me.  It  was  just  as  our 
prayer-meeting  was  breaking  up  that  the 
courier  arrived  with  his  message.  Here 
was  the  answer  to  our  prayers !  " 

The  doctors  rode  up  at  once  to  the  ya- 
men  of  the  Viceroy.  After  an  interview 
with  His  Excellency,  who  is  deeply  attached 
to  his  wife,  and  in  her  serious  illness  had 
practically  suspended  all  public  business, 
they  were  conducted  to  the  inner  apart- 
ments, and  there  saw  the  sick  ladyo  Ac- 
cording to  Chinese  notions  this  was  a  very- 
extraordinary  proceeding, 

"  Three  years  ago,"  wrote  Dr,  Mac- 
kenzie, "  while  in  Hankow  I  was  called  to 
attend  the  wife  of  a  merchant,  but  was  not 
allowed  to  see  her  face,  A  hole  was  made 
in  a  curtain,  through  which  her  arm  was 
protruded,  that  I  might  examine  her  pulse 
and  so  diagnose  the  disease.    But  now,  two 


/ 


74     Life  of  John  Kenneth  Mackenzie 

foreign  doctors  had  free  permission  to  ex- 
amine and  question  our  patient,  the  wife 
of  the  leading  Viceroy  of  the  Empire ! " 

Ly  They  found  the  lady  very  ill — in  a  most 
critical  condition,  and  at  first  do  not  seem 
to  have  been  hopeful  of  a  successful  issue, 

'  When  Dr,  Mackenzie  came  down  to  the 

settlement  for  medicines,  he  found  a  num- 
ber of  Christian  natives,  earnestly  talking 
over  the  wonderful  evento  "  What  chance 
is  there  of  Lady  Li's  recovery  ?  "  was  the 
eager  inquiry;  but  the  Doctor  could  not 
give  a  very  hopeful  replyo  "  She  is  very 
ill ;  I  fear  there  is  not  much  hope,"  he  said, 
*'  But  you  must  just  keep  on  praying," 

He  returned  to  his  illustrious  patient, 
and  remained  in  the  yamen  all  night,  to 
enable  the  Viceroy,  whose  anxiety  was 
somewhat  allayed,  to  get  some  sleep, 

"  We  were  in  close  attendance,  seeing  our 
patient  twice  a  day  for  six  days,"  writes 
the  Doctor,  "  When  by  the  mercy  of  God, 
the  lady  was,  humanly  speaking,  out  of 
danger.  But  it  was  necessary  for  her 
complete  restoration  to  health  to  adopt 
a  line  of  treatment  which,  according  to  Chi- 
nese etiquette,  could  only  be  carried  out  by 
a  lady.  We  therefore  informed  the  Vice- 
roy that  at  Peking  (two  days'  journey  off) 
there  was  an  American  lady  doctor,  Miss 


The  Power  of  Prayer  75 

Howard,  M.D.,  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal 
Mission,  and  inquired  if  there  would  be  any 
objection  to  her  carrying  out  this  treatmento 
*  None  whatever ! '  was  his  reply." 

That  day  a  special  messenger  was  dis- 
patched for  Miss  Howard,  the  Viceroy 
sending  his  own  steam  launch  to  convey  her 
from  Tung-chow.  On  her  arrival  she  took 
up  her  abode  in  apartments  prepared  for  her 
In  the  Chinese  palace,  remaining  for  a 
month  and  rendering  invaluable  assistance 
in  the  case. 

"  When  a  great  potentate  in  an  eastern 
city  takes  you  by  the  hand,"  writes  Dr. 
Mackenzie,  ''  the  land  is  all  before  you." 
In  our  daily  visits  to  our  noble  patient  our 
steps  were  thronged  with  eager  suppliants, 
who,  hearing  that  the  Viceroy's  wife  was 
undergoing  treatment,  sought  relief  from 
the  same  source,  A  story  often  grows  as  it 
spreads,  and  in  this  case  the  cure  was  be- 
ing magnified  into  a  miracle  of  healing, 

"  To  reach  the  family  apartments  we  had 
to  pass  through  numerous  courts,  and  here 
we  were  beset  with  patients,  the  friends 
of  soldiers,  door-keepers,  secretaries  and 
attendants  who  had  succeeded  in  gaining 
an  entrance.  The  poor  also  beseiged  us  as 
we  entered  and  left  the  yamen»  It  was 
truly  a  strange  gathering  we  found  daily 


76      Life  of  John  Kenneth  Mackenzie 

collected  around  the  outer  gates — the  halt, 
the  blind,  and  the  deaf  were  all  there  wait- 
ing to  be  healed;  indeed  the  whole  city 
seemed  to  be  moved.  High  officials  sought 
introduction  to  us  through  the  Viceroy 
himself. 

"  One  day  we  proposed  that  the  Viceroy 
should  see  a  surgical  operation.  Upon  his 
consenting  we  laid  our  patient  on  a  table  in 
the  centre  of  a  court.  He  had  a  tumour, 
as  large  as  a  child's  head,  growing  on  the 
back  of  his  neck.  We  administered  chloro- 
form and  removed  the  tumour,  of  course 
without  the  man  feeling  any  pain  during 
the  process. 

''  Two  other  cases  were  also  operated 
upon.  All  three  did  well ;  wherein  we  again 
see  that  the  hand  of  God  helped  us.  The 
effect  upon  the  Viceroy  and  other  officials 
was  marked.  It  was  evident  to  them  that 
the  crowds  of  people  were  waiting  to  be 
healed,  and  that  in  Western  medicine  there 
were  possibilities  beyond  the  reach  of  the 
Chinese  faculty. 

"  This  led  to  the  Viceroy  setting  apart  the 
entire  quadrangle  of  the  temple  to  Tseng 
Kwoh-fan,  one  of  the  finest  buildings  in 
Tien-tsin,  for  dispensary  v/ork,  and  if  nec- 
,essary,  for  the  reception  of  in-patients. 
Shortly  after  the  work  was  started  in  the 


The  Power  of  Prayer  77 

temple,  His  Excellency  put  up  a  tablet  over 
the  entrance,  with  his  three  titles  inscribed 
upon  it,  and  beneath  them  the  words, 
'  Free  Hospital.'  At  the  same  time  he 
handed  me  tls.^  200  to  purchase  drugs  for 
immediate  use,  and  gave  me  a  commission, 
appointing  me,  with  Dr.  Irwin,  medical  at- 
tendant upon  his  family  and  yamen.  In 
thus  giving  me  the  use  of  his  name  and 
taking  upon  himself  the  support  of  the 
work.  His  Excellency  knew  that  I  was  a 
Christian  missionary,  and  would  make  use 
of  every  opportunity  for  the  furtherance  of 
the  Gospel. 

"  From  the  very  commencement  I  have 
been  unable  to  compass  the  work,  so  many 
have  applied  for  treatment.  Every  help  has 
been  given  me ;  a  handsome  pony  and  Eng- 
lish saddlery,  with  ma-fu,  have  been  pro- 
vided, and  a  military  official  comes  daily 
to  conduct  me  to  and  from  the  temple,  or  to 
the  various  yamens  of  the  city. 

"  The  opening  here  for  Medical  Missions 
is  so  remarkable,  all  classes  and  both  sexes 
eagerly  seeking  aid,  that  with  her  consent, 
I  urged  the  transfer  of  Miss  Howard  to 
Tien-tsin,  to  take  up  the  splendid  opening 

*  Probably  "  taels  ".  A  tael  is  a  Chinese  ounce 
of  silver,  worth  about  $1.40. 


7  8      Life  of  John  Kenneth  Mackenzie 

for  work  amongst  the  women  there.  She 
has  therefore  come  down  to  Tien-tsin  with 
her  Chinese  women,  and  commenced  work, 
taking  the  female  department  at  the  temple, 
the  entire  support  of  which  is  borne  by  Lady 
Li." 

Thus    wonderfully    did    the    Heavenly 
Father  answer  prayer,  giving  the  needed 
funds  for  medical  work,  and  opening  the 
door  to  the  people  of  Tien-tsin.     In  due 
time  he   gave   also   a   permanent   hospital, 
a    large   and    commodious    building,    com- 
pletely  furnished   with   all   needful   appli- 
ances.    Well  indeed  might  John  Kenneth 
,    Mackenzie  say,  in  speaking  of  his  experi- 
1   ences,  "  I  do  indeed  believe  in  prayer.     I 
j    am  forced  to  believe  in  it,  and  to  say,  from 
practical  experience,  I  am  sure  that  God 
does  hear  and  answer  prayers." 


IX 

HOW  BANG-KAH  WAS  TAKEN 

From  "  From  Far  Formosa "  by  George  Leslie 
Mackay,  D.D.,  twenty-three  years  a  missionary 
in  Formosa. 

Bang-kah  was  the  Gibraltar  of  hea- 
thenism in  North  Formosa.  It  is  the  largest 
and  most  important  city,  thoroughly 
Chinese,  and  intensely  anti-foreign  in  all 
its  interests  and  sympathies.  In  my  journal 
of  1875  I  find  the  following  entry: 

"  The  citizens  of  Bang-kah,  old  and 
young,  are  daily  toiling  for  money,  money 
— cash,  cash.  They  are  materialistic,  super- 
stitious dollar-seekers.  At  every  visit,  when 
passing  through  their  streets,  we  are  ma- 
ligned, jeered  at,  and  abused.  Hundreds  of 
children  run  ahead,  yelling  derisive  shouts; 
others  follow,  pelting  us  with  orange-peel, 
mud  and  rotten  eggs.  For  hatred  to  for- 
eigners, for  pride,  swaggering  ignorance, 
and  conceit,  for  superstitious,  sensual, 
haughty,  double-faced  wickedness,  Bang- 
kah  takes  the  palm.  But  remember,  O 
haughty  city,  even  these  eyes  will  yet  see 
79 


8c  From  Far  Formosa 

thee  humbled  in  the  dust.  Thou  art  mighty 
now,  proud  and  full  of  malice;  but  thy 
power  shall  fall,  and  thou  shalt  be  brought 
low.  Thy  filthy  streets  are  indicative  of  thy 
moral  rottenness ;  thy  lov/  houses  show  thy 
baseness  in  the  face  of  heaven.  Repent,  O 
Bang-kah,  thou  wicked  city,  or  the  trumpet 
shall  blow  and  thy  tears  be  in  vain !  " 

Three  large  clans,  through  their  head 
men,  ruled  this  stronghold  of  heathenism, 
All  others  had  to  acquiesce  in  every  pro- 
posal. Foreign  merchants  had  never  suc- 
ceeded in  establishing  them.selves  there. 
Attempts  had  been  made,  but  their  Chinese 
agents  were  dragged  out  of  the  city  and 
narrowly  escaped  death.  We  had  estab- 
lished mission  churches  north,  south,  east 
and  west,  but  the  authorities  of  Bang-kah 
issued  proclamations  calling  on  citizens,  on 
pain  of  imprisonment  or  death,  not  to  rent, 
lease  or  sell  property  to  the  barbarian  mis- 
sionary. In  December,  1877,  however,  the 
time  came  for  establishing  a  mission  there, 
and  in  spite  of  all  their  attemipts  to  prevent 
our  entrance,  I  succeeded  in  renting  a  low 
hovel  on  the  eastern  side. 

On  getting  possession,  I  placed  a  paper 
tablet  above  the  door,  with  this  inscription, 
"  Jesus'  Holy  Temple."  Shortly  after,  sev- 
eral  soldiers    returning    to   their   encamp- 


How  Bang-kah  Was  Taken      8i 

ment  near  by,  read  the  inscription  and 
threatened  me  with  violence.  Then  they 
reported  to  the  general,  who  dispatched 
officers  to  order  me  out  of  the  place,  stating 
that  the  site  belonged  to  the  military  au- 
thoritieSo  I  demanded  proof  of  this.  It  was 
produced,  and  it  was  at  once  evident  I 
could  not  maintain  my  position  there.  We 
must  respect  Chinese  law,  and  act  wisely, 
if  we  would  successfully  carry  on  the  Lord's 
work,  so  I  admitted  their  claim,  but  stated 
that,  as  I  had  rented  from  a  citizen,  I  would 
not  leave  that  night. 

Till  long  past  midnight  angry  soldiers 
paraded  the  streets.  At  times  they  were  at 
the  point  of  smashing  in  the  door,  and 
disposing  of  me  with  their  weapons.  Again 
and  again  it  seemed  in  that  dark,  damp 
place,  as  if  my  end  v/ere  at  hand.  On  leav- 
ing the  place  in  the  morning,  great  crowds 
surrounded  me,  jostling  and  sneering;  and 
many  viewed  me  from  their  low-roofed 
houses,  and  flung  down  filth  and  missiles.  It 
took  me  several  hours  to  make  my  way  a 
short  distance  to  the  river's  bank.  Entering 
a  boat,  I  went  down  to  the  chapel,  three 
miles  away,  to  find  my  studentSo  We  spent 
the  rest  of  the  day  there,  and  in  the  evening, 
after'  preaching  in  the  chapel,  we  entered 
the  little  room  and  prayed  to  the  God  of 


82  From  Far  Formosa 

heaven  to  give  us  an  entrance  into  the  city 
of  Bang-kah, 

Rising  from  prayer,  we  returned  immedi- 
ately to  the  city.  It  was  dark,  but  some 
Hghts  were  visible.  Not  knowing  exactly 
where  we  were  going,  we  met  an  old  man, 
and  inquired  if  he  knew  anyone  who  would 
rent  a  small  house  for  mission  work. 
"  Yes,"  he  replied,  ''  I  will  rent  you  mine." 
We  accompanied  him,  and,  passing  through 
dark  streets,  came  to  a  small  back  door 
opening  into  a  dirty  room  with  mud-floor. 
We  entered  and  began  to  write  a  rental 
paper.  To  be  particular  I  said,  "  Do  you 
own  the  site?"  ''Oh,  no,"  said  he,  "but 
I  can  secure  the  owner  this  very  night."  In 
half  an  hour  the  owner  was  with  us,  an- 
other paper  prepared,  and  both  contracts 
signed  and  stamped.  By  midnight  I  was 
in  full  possession,  and  that  according  to 
Chinese  law. 

In  the  morning  I  put  up  a  tablet  over  the 
door  with  the  same  inscription  as  before: 
"  Jesus'  Holy  Temple,"  In  less  than  an  hour 
crowds  filled  the  street,  and  the  open  space 
in  front  of  a  large  temple  was  thronged 
with  angry  citizens.  People  came  and  went 
the  whole  day  long.  The  second  day  the 
whole  city  was  in  an  uproar,  and  the  hubbub' 
made  by  their  thousand  voices   fell  most 


How  Bang-kah  Was  Taken      83 

unpleasantly  upon  our  ears.  Still  I  walked 
the  streets  among  them,  now  and  again 
extracting  teeth ;  ^  for  there  were  friends 
seen  among  so  many  enemies.  On  the  third 
day  lepers  and  beggars,  hired  to  molest  us, 
pressed  around  with  their  swollen  ears  and 
disgusting  features.  They  tried  to  rub 
against  us,  expecting  us  soon  to  quit  the 
premises.  About  four  or  five  o'clock,  the  ex- 
citement grew  to  a  white  heat.  Hundreds 
had  their  queues  tied  around  their  necks, 
and  blue  cloth  about  their  loins,  to  signify 
that  they  were  ready  for  the  fray.  One 
picked  up  a  stone  and  hurled  it  against  the 
building.  In  a  moment,  with  deafening 
screams,  they  were  on  the  roof  and  the 
house  was  literally  torn  to  pieces  and  car- 
ried away.  Nothing  was  left.  They  dug 
up  the  stones  of  the  foundation  with  their 
hands,  and  stood  spitting  upon  the  site. 
We  moved  across  the  street  to  an  inn.  No 
sooner  had  we  done  this  than  scores  were 
on  the  roof,  and  many  more  climbing  the 
walls.    The  clash  of  the  tiles  could  be  heard 

^  Dentistry  is  an  important  department  of  med- 
ical missionary  work  in  Formosa.  Toothache, 
resulting  from  severe  malaria,  and  from  betel- 
nut  chewing,  cigar-smoking,  and  other  filthy 
habits,  is  the  abiding  torment  of  tens  of  thou- 
sands of  the  people. 


g4  From  Far  Formosa 

as  they  attempted  to  force  an  entrance. 
The  shouts  and  yells  were  inhuman.  One 
who  has  never  heard  the  fiendish  yells  of 
a  murderous  Chinese  mob  can  have  no 
conception  of  their  hideousness.  The  inn- 
keeper came  to  us  with  the  key  of  the  door 
in  his  hand  and  begged  us  to  leave,  lest 
his  house  be  destroyed. 

Then  there  came  a  lull.  The  Chinese 
mandarin,  in  his  large  sedan-chair,  with 
his  body-guard  around  him,  and  with  sol- 
diers following,  was  at  the  door.  Just  then, 
too,  Mr.  Scott,  British  consul  at  Tamsui 
put  in  an  appearance.  We  sat  down  to- 
gether. The  Chinese  official  told  the  con- 
sul to  order  the  missionary  away  from  the 
city.  The  consul  quickly  retorted.  "  I  have 
no  authority  to  give  such  an  order;  on  the 
other  hand  you  must  protect  him  as  a 
British  subject."  I  love  British  officials  of 
that  calibre.  When  he  left  I  accompanied 
him  to  the  outskirts  of  the  city.  On  my 
return  the  mandarin  was  literally  on  his 
knees,  beseeching  me  to  leave  the  city.  I 
showed  him  my  forceps  and  my  Bible,  and 
told  him  I  would  not  quit  the  city,  but 
would  extract  teeth  and  preach  the  Gospel. 

In  two  or  three  days  the  excitement  sub- 
sided. In  a  week  I  was  offered  a  site  out- 
side the  city,  and  the  promise  of  help  from 


How  Bang-kah  Was  Taken      85 

the  Chinese  authorities  to  erect  a  building 
there.  I  refused  point-blank.  As  I  was 
lawfully  in  possession  of  the  site  as  well  as 
of  the  building  that  had  been  destroyed,  I 
was  determined  to  have  our  mission  chapel 
in  Bang-kah,  and  on  that  spot.  The  officials 
said  I  could  not  build  there  again  because 
it  was  within  a  few  feet  of  the  examination 
hall,  although,  in  fact,  the  hall  was  a  mile 
and  a  half  away.  Having  exhausted  their 
v/hole  stock  of  excuses  and  subterfuges, 
they  yielded.  I  erected  a  small  building  on 
the  original  site — not  one  inch  one  way  or 
another — and  opened  it  with  soldiers  para- 
ding the  street  to  keep  the  peace.  Still  the 
three  strong  clans  continued  to  be  bitterly 
opposed  to  us.  Every  citizen  who  dared  to 
become  a  hearer  was  boycotted.  The  former 
owner  of  the  site  had  to  flee  for  his  Hfe.  In 
time  a  few  became  friendly.  We  purchased 
a  larger  site  and  erected  a  good,  commodi- 
ous place  of  worship  roofed  with  tiles.  Dur- 
ing the  French  invasion  in  1884  that  build- 
ing was  destroyed  by  the  looters  and  the 
materials  carried  away.  But  within  three 
months  after  the  cessation  of  French  hos- 
tilities, it  was  replaced  by  a  solid,  handsome, 
substantial  structure  of  stone,  with  spire 
seventy  feet  high,  and  lightning-rod  three 
feet  higher. 


86  From  Far  Formosa 

In  1879,  "^^t^  ^^^  students  on  foot,  and 
my  wife  in  a  sedan-chair,  I  was  on  my  way 
to  the  chapel  after  dark.  It  was  the  tenth 
day  of  a  heathen  feast  and  the  devotees 
were  wrought  up  to  the  highest  pitch  of 
fury  and  agitation.  There  were  thousands 
of  them  in  a  procession,  leaping  and  yelling 
as  if  under  the  afflatus  of  evil  spirits.  We 
were  recognized.  There  was  a  pause,  and  a 
torch  was  thrust  into  the  face  of  my  wife, 
nearly  destroying  her  eyes.  Two  students 
were  dragged  by  their  queues,  while  a  third 
was  tumbled  on  the  stone  pavement.  Wilder 
and  wilder  grew  the  infuriated  mob.  Louder 
and  louder  sounded  their  gongs  and  yells. 
Things  looked  dangerous,  when  an  old  man 
rushed  up  and  said :  "  This  is  Kai  Bok-su, 
the  barbarian  teacher.  Do  not  interfere 
with  him  or  his  company.  Take  my  advice 
and  go  on  in  your  procession."  Fortunately 
there  was  a  narrow  lane  at  right  angles  to 
the  street.  Into  this  he  hurried  us  out  of 
danger.  We  went  directly  to  the  chapel, 
and  I  preached  on  the  words  of  the  psalm, 
*'  As  the  mountains  are  round  about  Jeru- 
salem, so  the  Lord  is  round  about  His 
people  from  henceforth,  even  forever." 

Many  changes  have  taken  place  in  that 
once  proud  city.  In  1887  I  was  there  dur- 
ing the  time  of  idolatrous  rites.     Perhaps 


How  Bang-kah  Was  Taken      87 

there  was  never  such  a  gathering  of  people 
in  Bang-kah  before.  A  native  pastor  and 
myself  took  our  position  purposely  at  vari- 
ous places  near  the  temple,  on  the  cross- 
streets,  by  the  wayside,  on  the  city  wall. 
Once  we  were  right  above  the  gateway 
through  which  the  procession  passed,  but 
we  were  not  molested.  The  people  went 
along  with  smiling  faces.  That  evening  we 
sat  in  front  of  the  temple  where  years  be- 
fore the  mob  met  to  kill  us.  The  Bang-kah 
head-men  who  had  been  so  bitter,  were  in 
the  procession.  As  they  came  near  us  they 
halted  and  greeted  us  kindly.  Before  dark 
I  extracted  five  hundred  and  thirteen  teeth 
and  addressed  an  immense  throng.  What 
a  change!  Who  ever  dreamed  of  such 
a  change!  But  idolatry  is  far  from  being 
dead.  Hard  battles  must  yet  be  fought  be- 
fore heathen  hearts  will  yield  to  Jesus  and 
follow  Him. 

But  it  was  on  the  eve  of  our  departure  to 
Canada  in  1893  that  Bang-kah  gave  best 
evidence  of  the  greatness  of  the  change.  In 
the  chapel,  on  the  occasion  of  our  last  visit, 
two  marriage  ceremonies  were  performed 
in  the  presence  of  a  large  assembly.  The 
head-men  of  the  city  sent  their  visiting- 
cards,  with  a  message  to  ask  if  I  was  willing 
to  sit  in  a  sedan-chair  and  be  carried  in 


88  From  Far  Formosa 

honor  through  their  streets.  I  begged  some 
time  to  consider,  and  decided  that,  as  in 
times  past  they  had  acted  toward  us  as  they 
chose,  so  now  I  would  allow  them  to  do  the 
same.  A  procession  was  formed  near  the 
same  old  temple.  Eight  bands  of  music, 
with  cymbals,  drums,  gongs,  pipes,  guitars, 
mandolins,  tambourines,  and  clarionets,  took 
the  lead.  Men  and  boys,  with  flags,  stream- 
ers and  banners,  followed;  scores  with 
squibs  and  fire-crackers  set  off  after  the 
manner  of  Chinese  celebrations.  Five  head- 
men came  next  in  order;  and  then  three 
large  "  umbrellas  of  honor,"  with  three 
flounces  each,  presented  by  the  people,  with 
their  names  inscribed,  were  carried  in  front 
of  me,  as  I  sat  in  a  handsome  silk-Hned  se- 
dan chair.  Following  the  chair  were  six  men 
on  horseback,  twenty-six  sedan  chairs,  three 
hundred  footmen  in  regular  order,  and  vari- 
ous other  parties  behind.  Thus  we  passed 
through  the  streets  of  Bang-kah,  receiving 
on  all  hands  tokens  of  honor  and  respect. 

On  arriving  at  Bang-kah  "jetty",  where 
the  steam-launch  was  waiting,  our  Qiristians 
stood  and  sang,  "  I'm  not  ashamed  to  own 
my  Lord."  Heathen  and  Christian  alike 
cheered  us  as  we  went  aboard.  Two  bands 
of  music  accompanied  us  all  the  way  to 
Tamsui,  and  from  the  launch  right  up  to 


How  Bang-kah  Was  Taken       89 

our  dwelling-house.  In  front  of  the  door 
was  the  climax  of  the  demonstration.  And 
all  this  was  from  the  head-men  and  citizens 
of  Bang-kah,  the  erstwhile  Gibraltar  of 
heathenism.  Thus  was  Bang-kah  taken. 
Not  unto  us,  O  Lord,  not  unto  us,  but  unto 
Thy  holy  name,  be  the  glory ! 


X 

DOES  GOD  HEAR  PRAYER?  A 
THRILLING  EXPERIENCE  IN  A 
TIGER  JUNGLE 

From  "  In  the  Tiger  Jungle ",  by  Rev.  Jacob 
Chamberlain,  forty  years  a  missionary  of  the 
Reformed  Church  in  America  at  Madanapalle, 
India. 

It  was  in  September,  1863.  I  was  tak- 
ing a  long  exploring,  preaching  and  Bible- 
distributing    tour    up    through    the    native 

^  Kingdom  of  Hyderabad  and  on  into  Central 
India  where  no  missionary  had  ever  before 
worked.  It  was  a  journey  of  twelve  hun- 
dred miles  on  horseback  and  was  regarded 
as  exceedingly  dangerous.  Indeed  before 
starting  I  had  received  many  messages  and 
letters  begging  me  not  to  throw  away  my 
life  and  end  disastrously  a  missionary  ca- 
reer so  near  its  beginning. 

I  had  measured  the  obstacles,  and  counted 
the  cost,  and  considering  none  of  them 
sufficient  to  cancel  the  command,  "  Go  ye 
into  all  the  world,"  I  had  covenanted  for 

^    the  journey  with  the  "  I  am  with  you  al- 
90 


Does  God  Hear  Prayer?  91 

ways,"  and  started  on  my  way.  I  was  ac- 
companied by  four  native  assistants,  and  we 
took  with  us  two  cart-loads  of  Scriptures 
and  tracts. 

Of  the  dangers  promised  we  had  expe- 
rienced some,  but  the  ''  I  am  with  you  al- 
ways "  had  all  the  way  forefended  us  from 
harm.  We  had  now,  however,  come  to  the 
greatest  strait  in  our  journey.  We  were  to 
find  a  government  steamer  when  we  struck 
the  Pranhita  River,  an  affluent  of  the  great 
Godavery,  but  the  heavy  torrents  of  the 
monsoon  had  come  on  unexpectedly  early 
and  were  unprecedentedly  severe.  The  God- 
avery became  three  miles  wide  and  village 
after  village  on  its  shores  was  swept  away. 

We  watched  on  the  banks  for  a  week. 
A  messenger  then  succeeded  in  getting 
through  to  tell  us  that  the  steamer  had 
broken  its  machinery  and  could  not  come 
to  us.  We  must,  therefore,  march  through 
seventy-five  miles  of  fever  jungle  to  reach 
another  steamer,  which  was  to  meet  us  at 
the  foot  of  the  second  cataract. 

I  need  not  stop  to  recount  the  exciting 
episode  of  our  desertion  by  a  whole  party 
of  cooHes  whom  the  government  commis- 
sioner of  the  central  provinces  had  kindly 
furnished  to  convey  our  tents,  baggage, 
medicine-chests    and    books    down   to   the 


92  In  the  Tiger  Jungle 

steamer,  nor  of  our  desperate  attempts, 
finally  successful,  to  cross  the  Godavery's 
three  miles'  flood  in  order  to  reach  a  large 
town  of  the  Nizam's  dominions,  the  head- 
quarters of  a  high  native  official  from  whom 
i  hoped  to  obtain  help. 

When   I   appeared   at   the   door  of  this 
magnate  and  politely  presented  my  appeal 
to  him  for  coolies  to  take  my  party  down 
.the  river,  he  as  politely  told  me  it  was  an 
flutter  impossibility.     At  this  season  of  the 
■  year  the  fever  was  so  deadly  in  the  jungle, 
land  the  man-eating  tigers  so  ravenous,  that 
"  no  coolies  could  be  induced  to  go  through. 
I  told  him  I  must  have  the  coolies.    I  took 
from  my  pocket  and  slowly  unrolled  a  long 
parchment  document,  a  hookam,  or  firman, 
from  the  Nizam,  which  the  British  minister 
at  that  court  had  kindly  pressed  upon  me, 
saying  he  would  sleep  better  if  he  knew  I 
had  it  in  my  possession.     I  had  not  thus 
far  opened  it,  but  the  need  had  now  come. 
In  it  the  Nizam,  at  the  request  of  the  Brit- 
ish minister,   authorized   my   journey   and 
ordered  his  officials  to  render  any  assist- 
ance I  should  call  for,  at  the  shortest  no- 
tice and  under  the  highest  penalties  for  non- 
performance. 

When  the  deputy  governor  saw  the  great 
royal  seal  his  whole  appearance  changed, 


Does  God  Hear  Prayer  ?  g;^ 

and  shouting  in  imperious  tones,  he  ordered 
his  attendants  to  run  with  all  speed  to  the 
surrounding  villages  and  bring  in  the  forty- 
four  stalwart  men  I  had  called  for.  In  an 
incredibly  short  time  they  appeared,  and  at 
once  went  down  to  the  river  and  brought  up 
all  our  goods.  Asking  what  the  highest  pay 
was,  I  placed  that  sum  in  the  hands  of  each 
man  with  the  magistrate  as  witness;  and 
when  each  of  the  forty-four  had  grasped  it 
in  his  palm  I  told  them  that  now  they  were 
sealed  to  accompany  me  through,  and  that 
any  one  who  attempted  to  desert  would 
bring  the  consequences  on  his  own  head. 
The  magistrate  also  told  them  that  they 
would  be  publicly  whipped  and  put  in  prison 
if  they  appeared  back  at  their  homes  with- 
out taking  me  through.  To  make  still  more 
sure,  I  separated  them  into  four  squads  of 
eleven  men  each,  placing  one  of  the  native 
preachers  in  charge  of  each  party. 

We  struck  into  the  jungle.  We  had  to 
go  single  file.  Foot-paths  there  had  been, 
but  these  were  now  grown  over.  The  pour- 
ing rain  would  drench  us  for  half  an  hour, 
and  then  the  sun,  blazing  forth  between  the 
clouds,  would  broil  us.  The  country  was 
flooded  and  reeking,  the  bushes  loaded  and 
dripping,  but  get  through  we  must,  or  the 
steamer  might  not  wait  for  us. 


4^ 


94  In  the  Tiger  Jungle 

In  spite  of  all  my  precautions  I  felt  sus- 
picious that  an  effort  would  be  made  to  de- 
sert us,  and  was  on  the  constant  watch. 
About  4  p.  M.,  I  fancied  I  saw  an  uneasiness 
among  the  coolies,  and  rode  back  and  forth 
constantly  along  the  line.  Three  bands 
passed  me,  and  the  fourth  was  filing  by. 
;  There  was  a  sharp  bend  in  the  path ;  the 
!Iast  two  coolies  had  not  appeared.  Quick 
as  thought,  I  dashed  across  the  hypotenuse 
of  the  triangle,  and  jumped  my  little  pony 
into  the  path  again  just  as  the  two  coolies 
had  put  down  their  burden  and  were  spring- 
ing into  the  jungle. 

"What  are  you  doing?"  said  I,  with 
the  muzzle  of  my  pistol  at  one  man^s  ear. 
Trembling  with  fear  they  seized  their  bur- 
dens and  ran  on,  overtaking  the  others. 
They  reported  what  had  taken  place,  and 
word  was  passed  along  the  line  to  look 
out  how  they  attempted  to  desert,  for  they, 
too,  had  tried  it  when  the  white  foreigner, 
the  dhora,  was  nowhere  near,  and  as  they 
sprang  into  the  bushes,  he  dropped  down 
from  the  clouds  between  them,  with  his  six- 
eyed  gun  in  his  hand,  and  it  was  a  wonder 
their  brains  were  not  scattered.  From  the 
way  they  looked  at  me  as  I  rode  by  again, 
I  knew  that  superstition  was  now  my  ally. 

But  now  a  new  difficulty  confronted  us. 


Does  God  Hear  Prayer?         95 

We  met  two  fleet-footed  huntsmen  who  had 
been  down  to  inspect  their  traps,  and  halted 
to  inquire  about  the  region  ahead.  We 
knew  that  some  two  miles  in  front  was  an 
affluent  of  the  Godavery  which  we  expected 
to  ford,  pitching  our  camp  for  the  night 
on  an  open  knoll  just  beyond  it.  From 
these  hunters  we  learned  that  the  flood  had 
made  this  affluent  absolutely  unfordable. 

The  guides  knew  the  country  well,  and  v 
seemed  dazed  by  the  news.  In  an  hour  it 
would  be  sunset;  dense  clouds  even  now 
made  it  seem  dark.  Already  we  could  hear 
the  occasional  fierce,  hungry  roar  of  the 
tigers  in  the  jungle  at  our  right.  I  said 
not  a  word  to  my  assistants,  but  I  spoke  to 
God.  As  my  horse  tramped  on,  my  heart 
went  up  and  claimed  the  promised  presence. 

"  Master,,  waah  sake  that 

we  came  here?  Did  we  not  covenant  with 
Thee  for  the  journey  through?  Have  we 
not  faithfully  preached  Thy  name  the  whole 
long  way?  Have  we  shirked  any  danger, 
have  we  quailed  before  any  foe?  Didst 
Thou  not  promise,  '  I  will  be  with  Thee  ? ' 
Now  we  need  Thee,  we  are  in  the  blackest 
danger  for  this  night.  Only  Thou  canst 
save  us  from  this  jungle,  these  tigers,  this 
flood.  O  Master !  Master !  show  me  what 
to  do ! " 


g6  In  the  Tiger  Jungle 

An  answer  came ;  not  audible,  but  distinct 
as  though  spoken  in  my  ear  by  human  voice : 
^  "  Turn  to  the  left,  to  the  Godavery,  and 
you  will  find  rescue." 

Riding  rapidly  forward,  I  overtook  the 
guides.    "  How  far  is  it  to  the  Godavery  ?  " 

"  A  good  mile." 

"  Is  there  no  village  on  its  banks  ?  " 

"  No,  none  within  many  miles,  and  the 
banks  are  all  overflowed." 

I  drew  apart  and  prayed  again  as  we  still 
plodded  on.  Again  came  the  answer, 
"  Turn  to  the  left,  to  the  Godavery,  and 
you  will  find  rescue."  Again  I  questioned 
the  guides :  "  Is  there  no  rising  ground  by 
the  river  where  we  can  pitch  our  tents  for 
the  night?" 

"  None  whatever." 

*'  Is  there  no  dry  timber  of  which  we 
could  make  a  raft  ?  " 

"  If  there  were  it  would  all  be  washed 
away  by  this  flood." 

"  Is  there  no  boat  of  any  sort  on  the 
river?" 

"  None  nearer  than  the  cataract." 

"  How  long  would  it  take  us  to  reach  the 
Godavery  by  the  nearest  path  ?  " 

"  Half  an  hour,  but  it  would  be  so  much 
time  lost,  for  we  would  have  to  come  back 
here  again." 


Does  God  Hear  Prayer  ?  97 

"  What  shall  we  do  for  to-night?  " 

"  God  knows,"  and  they  looked  the  de- 
spair they  felt. 

I  drew  aside  again  and  prayed  as  I  rode 
on.  "  Turn  to  the  left,  to  the  Godavery,  and 
you  will  find  rescue,"  came  the  response 
the  third  time.  It  was  not  audible ;  none  of 
those  near  by  heard  it.  I  cannot  explain  it, 
but  to  me  it  was  as  distinct  as  though 
spoken  by  a  voice  in  my  ear;  it  thrilled 
me.  "  God's  answer  to  my  prayer,"  I  said. 
"  I  cannot  doubt.  I  must  act,  and  that  in- 
stantly." 

Going  to  the  head  of  the  column  I  cried, 
"  Halt !  "  in  a  voice  to  be  heard  by  all. 
"  Turn  sharp  to  the  left.  Guides,  show  us 
the  shortest  way  to  the  Godavery.    Quick !  " 

They  remonstrated  that  we  should  be  in 
a  worse  plight  there  than  here,  for  the  river 
might  rise  higher  and  wash  us  away  in  the 
darkness  of  the  night. 

"Obey!"  I  said.  "March  sharp  or 
night  will  come.  I  am  master  here.  Show 
the  way  to  the  river."  They  glanced  at 
the  fourteen-inch  revolver  I  had  ready  for 
any  beast  that  might  spring  upon  us,  and 
started  on. 

My  four  native  preachers  looked  up  in- 
quiringly into  my  awed  face.  "  There  is 
rescue  at  the  river,"  was  all  I  could  say. 


98  In  the  Tiger  Jungle 

*'  The  dhora  has  heard  of  help  at  the  river," 
I  overheard  the  coolies  say  one  to  another. 
I  had  heard  of  help,  but  what  it  was  I 
knew  not.  My  anxiety  was  gone;  there 
was  an  intense  state  of  expectancy  in  its 
place. 

Half  a  mile  from  the  river,  I  spurred  for- 
ward past  the  guides,  and  cantered  out  from 
the  bushes  to  the  bank,  keenly  observant. 
There,  right  under  my  feet,  was  a  large  flat 
boat  tied  to  a  tree  at  the  shore !  Two  men 
were  upon  it  trying  to  keep  it  afloat  in  the 
rising  and  falling  current. 

\  "  How  did  this  boat  get  here  ?  "  said  I. 

^^"  Oh,  sir,  please  don't  be  angry  with  us," 
said  the  boatmen,  taking  me  to  be  an  officer 
of  the  British  India  government  to  whom 
the  boat  belonged.  "  We  tried  our  best  to 
keep  it  from  coming  here,  but,  sir,  it  seemed 
as  though  it  was  possessed.  This  morning 
a  huge  wave  came  rushing  down  the  river, 
and  snapped  the  cables,  and  swept  the  boat 
into  the  current.  We  did  our  utmost  to 
get  it  back  to  the  bank,  but  it  would  go  far- 
ther and  farther  out  into  the  current.  The 
more  we  pulled  for  the  British  bank,  the 
more  it  would  work  out  toward  the  Nizam's. 
We  have  fought  all  day  to  keep  it  from 
coming  here,  but  it  seemed  as  though  a 
supernatural  power  were  shoving  the  boat, 


Does  God  Hear  Prayer?  99 

and  an  hour  ago  we  gave  up,  and  let  it 
float  in  here,  and  tied  it  up  for  safety  to  this 
tree.  Don't  have  us  punished  for  letting  it 
come  here ;  we  could  not  help  it." 

"All  right,  my  men,"  said  I.  "I  take 
command  of  this  boat;  I  have  authority  to 
use  government  property  on  this  journey.  I 
will  reward  you  well  and  give  you  a  letter 
that  will  clear  you  of  all  blame." 

The  boat,  a  large  flatboat  with  strong 
railings  along  both  sides,  had  been  built  by 
the  British  military  authorities  in  the  trou- 
blous time  following  the  mutiny  in  these 
regions,  and  the  men  were  paid  monthly 
wages  to  keep  it  at  its  station  in  case  of 
sudden  need. 

Who  had  ordered  the  tidal  wave  in  the 
morning  of  that  day,  and  had  torn  the  boat 
from  its  moorings,  and  driven  it  so  many 
miles  dovv^n  the  river,  that  had  thwarted 
every  endeavour  of  the  frightened  boatmen 
to  force  it  to  the  north  shore,  and  had 
brought  it  to  the  little  cove-like  recess  just 
where  we  would  strike  the  river?  Who  but 
Him  on  whose  orders  we  had  come;  He 
who  had  said,  "  I  will  be  with  you ; "  He 
who  knew  beforehand  the  dire  straits  in 
which  we  would  be  in  that  very  place,  on 
that  very  day,  that  very  hour ;  He  who  had 
told  us  so  distinctly,  "  Turn  to  the  left,  to 


lOO  In  the  Tiger  Jungle 

the  Godavery,  and  you  will  find  rescue  ?  " 
I  bowed  my  head,  and  in  amazed  reverence 
I  thanked  my  God  for  this  signal  answer 
to  our  pleading  prayer. 

The  guides  now  came  into  sight,  and 
looked  dazed  as  they  saw  me  arranging  to 
put  our  whole  party  on  the  boat.  I  heard 
f^ome  say  to  the  others,  "  How  did  the  dhora 
■  know  of  this  boat  ?  None  of  us  knew  of  it 
or  could  have  found  it." 
.  To  my  native  preachers  I  simply  said, 
"  God  heard  our  prayers,  and  this  is  the 
answer ;  "  for  I  knew  that  they  had  been 
praying  on  foot  while  I  was  praying  on 
horseback.  "  Yes,"  they  said  reverently ; 
"  He  has  heard  our  prayers  and  delivered 
us.     We  will  never  doubt  Him  again." 

We  pitched  our  tent  upon  the  boat,  and 
it  exactly  covered  it,  making  a  secure  abode 
for  the  night,  and  within  it  the  whole  party 
was  able  to  gather  with  all  the  baggage. 
I  sat  watching  at  the  shore  end  of  the  boat, 
pistol  in  hand,  through  the  night,  lest,  in 
spite  of  a  bright  camp-fire  we  had  built, 
a  tiger  should  try  to  spring  on.  They  had 
scented  us  and  were  eager  for  the  prey. 
We  could  hear  their  roaring,  and  once  I 
fancied  I  saw  the  glaring  eyes  of  a  royal 
tiger  peering  at  us  between  the  two  nearest 
bushes.     But  ''He  shall  give  His  angels 


Does  God  Hear  Prayer  ?        loi 

charge  over  thee,  to  keep  thee  in  all  thy 
ways/'  kept  running  through  my  mind  after 
we  had,  as  we  settled  down  for  the  night, 
read  the  Ninety-first  Psalm  in  the  beautiful 
Telugu  language,  and  offered  up  prayers  of 
thanksgiving  and  praise  to  the  Most  High, 
under  the  shadow  of  whose  wings  we  were 
abiding.  Nothing  could  equal  the  vivid 
consciousness  Vv^e  had  during  all  that  long 
day  and  night,  of  the  presence  of  the  Mas- 
ter; nothing  can  surpass  the  vividness  of 
the  certitude  that  God  did  intervene  and 
save  us. 

Some  who  have  not  tested  it  may  sneer 
and  doubt ;  but  we  five  know  that  God  hears 
prayer. 


XI 

AN  ENCOUNTER  WITH  A  TEN- 
FOOT  SERPENT 

From  "  In  the  Tiger  Jungle  ",  by  the  Rev.  Jacob 
Chamberlain,  M.D.,  D.D. 

While  on  a  preaching  tour  in  the  native 
Kingdom  of  Hyderabad,  in  India,  an  inci- 
dent occurred  which  at  first  threatened  to 
be  damaging,  but  which  proved  helpful. 

We  were  in  a  great  teak-wood  forest, 
with  trees  towering  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  above  the  woodman's  path,  up  which  we 
were  wending  our  way  to  the  great  God- 
avery  River.  We  had  that  morning  taken  a 
long  march,  preaching  and  disposing  of 
Gospels  and  tracts  in  every  village  and  ham- 
let we  passed.  At  ten  o'clock  learning  from 
our  guide  that  about  a  mile  ahead  was  a 
large  village  or  town,  I  rode  on  in  advance 
to  find  a  place  in  which  to  pitch  our  tent. 

As  I  came  near,  I  saw  the  elders  of  the 
city  coming  out  of  the  city  gates — for  it 
was  an  old  walled  town — to  meet  me. 
Passing  the  salutations  of  the  day,  I  asked 
them  where  there  was  a  shady  place  where 
I  could  pitch  my  tent  for  the  day  and  night. 

102 


Encounter  With  a  Serpent      103 

"  You  need  not  pitch  your  tent,"  they  re- 
pHed ;  "  here  is  a  new  thatched  building  just 
erected  for  our  cattle.  That  will  be  fully 
as  comfortable  as  your  tent  and  save  the 
trouble  of  pitching;  please  accept  the  use 
of  that." 

Close  by  us,  just  outside  the  gates  of  the 
town,  was  this  new  building,  with  roof  and 
walls  made  of  palm-leaves,  and  with  an 
open  doorway,  but  no  door.  The  floor  was 
the  virgin  sod,  still  green,  for  it  had  not 
been  used. 

I  accepted  their  hospitality,  and  as  soon 
as  my  cart  came  up  I  took  out  my  camp- 
cot,  and  put  it  in  the  middle  of  the  hut,  and 
threw  myself  down  to  rest  while  my  servant 
was  preparing  my  breakfast.  My  native  as- 
sistants had  not  yet  come  up,  as  they  had 
found  another  little  hamlet  after  I  left  them, 
and  had  stopped  to  preach  in  that. 

I  was  lying  on  my  back  on  my  cot,  read- 
ing my  Greek  Testament,  which  had  been 
my  daily  companion  from  a  boy.  I  was 
holding  it  up  over  me,  reading  a  little,  and 
shutting  my  eyes  and  thinking  a  little.  This 
continued  for  near  half  an  hour.  At  length 
the  passage  I  was  reading  was  finished, 
and  I  let  the  arm  that  was  holding  the  book 
fall. 

Then,  and  not  until  then,  did  I  become 


I04  In  the  Tiger  Jungle 

aware  that  a  huge  serpent  was  coiled  around 
one  of  the  bamboo  rafters,  with  some  four 
feet  of  his  body  hanging  down  directly  over 
my  head,  with  his  eyes  flashing  and  his 
tongue  darting  out,  just  above  where  my 
book  had  been,  and  had  concealed  him.  He 
had  evidently  been  asleep  in  the  roof;  the 
putting  in  of  my  cot  had  awakened  him. 
While  I  was  reading  he  had  let  down  one- 
third  of  his  body,  or  more,  and  was  looking 
to  see  what  this  leprous-looking  white  man 
was  about,  for  he  had  probably  never  seen 
a  white  man  before. 

His  darting  tongue  was  almost  within  an 
arm's-length  of  my  face  when  I  caught 
sight  of  him.  I  remembered  that  during 
my  course  at  the  medical  college,  in  the  sky- 
light dissecting-room  of  the  old  College  of 
Physicians  and  Surgeons  in  New  York,  I 
once  looked  attentively  over  the  muscles 
of  the  human  frame,  and  wondered  whether 
a  person  lying  down  could  jump  horizon- 
tally without  first  erecting  himself.  I  found 
it  could  be  done  with  proper  incentives,  for 
off  that  cot  I  came  at  one  bound  to  my  feet 
without  first  raising  my  head,  for  that  ser- 
pent was  too  near  it. 

Running  to  the  door,  I  seized  an  iron 
spit  some  five  or  six  feet  long,  with  a  sharp 
point,  used  for  roasting  purposes  in  the  jun- 


Encounter  With  a  Serpent      105 

gle,  and  which  was  in  the  cart.  Using  that 
as  a  spear,  I  was  successful  at  the  first 
thrust  in  piercing  the  body  of  the  serpent 
where  it  was  coiled  around  the  rafter. 

But  then  I  found  myself  in  another  diffi- 
culty. I  caught  hold  of  the  spear  to  keep 
it  from  falling  out  and  releasing  the  serpent, 
but  the  serpent  would  draw  back,  and  with 
a  tremendous  hiss  strike  at  my  hand  that 
held  the  spear,  and  came  conspicuously 
near  hitting  it  with  his  tremendous  extended 
fangs.  If  I  should  let  go,  the  spit  would 
fall  out  and  the  serpent  get  away,  and  he 
and  I  could  not  sleep  in  that  hut  together 
that  night,  especially  after  he  had  been 
wounded  by  me.  If  I  held  on,  his  body 
might  slide  down  the  spit  until  he  could 
reach  my  hand,  which  might  be  fatal  to 
me  instead  of  to  him. 

However,  in  answer  to  my  lusty  calls, 
my  servant  soon  appeared  with  a  bamboo 
club.  Holding  the  spit  with  my  left  hand 
and  taking  the  club  in  my  right,  I  adminis- 
tered to  the  serpent  a  headache,  from  which 
he  died.  As  I  took  him  down  and  held  him 
up  by  the  middle,  on  the  spit,  to  the  level 
of  my  shoulder  both  head  and  tail  touched 
the  floor,  showing  that  he  was  about  ten 
feet  long. 

Just  as  I  was  holding  him  in  this  position 


io6  In  the  Tiger  Jungle 

one  of  the  village  watchmen  passed  the  door 
of  the  hut,  and  saw  what  I  had  done.  It 
occurred  to  me  at  once  that  now  I  should 
find  myself  in  a  ''  bad  box."  for  the  people 
revere  serpents  as  demigods.  They  dare 
not  kill  them  or  harm  them,  and  will  always 
beg  for  the  life  of  a  serpent  if  they  see  any- 
one else  killing  one.  They  think  that  if  you 
harm  a  deadly  serpent,  it  or  its  kin  will 
wage  war  on  you  and  your  kin  and  descend- 
ants until  your  kin  are  exterminated.  I,  a 
missionary,  had  come  there  to  preach;  how 
would  they  hear  me  when  I  had  killed  one 
of  their  gods? 

Knowing  that  the  news  had  gone  into 
the  town  to  the  elders,  I  began  to  prepare 
my  line  of  defense,  for  I  thought  that  they 
would  soon  come  to  call  me  to  account.  I 
remembered  a  verse  in  one  of  their  Telugu 
poets  commending  the  killing  of  venomous 
reptiles,  and  having  a  copy  of  that  poet  with 
me,  I  opened  my  book-box,  and  took  it 
out,  but  had  not  found  the  verse  when  I 
saw  the  chief  men  coming  out  toward 
the  hut. 

To  my  astonishment,  they  had  native 
brass  trays  in  their  hands,  with  sweetmeats, 
cocoanuts,  limes,  and  burning  incense- 
sticks  on  them;  and  as  they  came  to  the 
door  of  the  hut  they  prostrated  themselves 


Encounter  With  a  Serpent      107 

before  me,  and  then  presented  these  offer- 
ings; for  they  said  I  had  rid  them  of 
their  most  dangerous  enemy,  that  that  ser- 
pent had  been  the  bane  of  the  village  for 
several  years.  It  had  bitten  and  killed  some 
of  their  kine,  and,  I  think,  also  a  child. 
They  had  made  every  effort  to  drive  it 
away  from  the  village  by  burning  straw 
closer  and  closer  to  it  to  make  it  go  farther 
and  farther  away,  but  it  would  always  re- 
turn. They  had  tried  to  coax  it  away  by 
putting  little  cups,  each  holding  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  milk,  every  two  yards  or  so 
out  into  the  jungle;  but  as  soon  as  it  had 
drunk  all  the  milk  it  wanted,  it  would  turn 
round  and  crawl  back  into  the  village  and 
into  some  house,  and  then  the  people  of 
that  house  would  have  to  vacate  until  it 
chose  to  leave.  It  had  become  the  terror  of 
the  village. 

But  now  I,  a  stranger  and  a  foreigner, 
had  killed  it  without  their  knowledge  or 
consent.  That  was  their  safety;  for  had 
they  seen  me  doing  it  they  would  have 
begged  for  its  life,  lest  they  be  taken  as 
accomplices.  Now  it  was  dead,  and  they 
were  guildess.  It  could  harm  them  and 
theirs  no  more.  Would  I  please  accept 
these  sweets?  They  had  sent  to  the  flock 
in  the  fields  to  have  a  fat  sheep  brought  me 


io8  In  the  Tiger  Jungle 

as  an  offering.  Would  I  please  accept  the 
sheep?  Now  whatever  I  had  to  say  they 
would  listen  to  me  gladly,  for  was  I  not 
their  deliverer?  The  sheep  was  brought; 
myself,  associates,  and  attendants  made  a 
sumptuous  dinner  from  it.  The  serpent  was 
not  a  cobra, — cobras  never  grow  so  large, — 
but  it  was  said  to  be  equally  venomous. 

When  the  heat  of  the  day  was  over,  we 
all  went  into  the  town  to  preach.  At  the 
gate  was  the  village  crier  with  his  tom-tom, 
or  small  drum ;  and  as  soon  as  we  appeared 
he  went  through  all  the  streets  beating  the 
tom-tom  and  crying,  ''  Come,  all  ye  peo- 
ple; come  and  hear  what  the  serpent-des- 
troyer has  to  say  to  us."  A  royal  audi- 
ence we  had,  while  we  spoke  to  them  of 
the  "  old  serpent  "  and  his  deeds,  and  Christ, 
Who  bruised  the  serpent's  head.  The  kill- 
ing of  the  serpent,  instead  of  proving  a 
bar,  had  opened  a  door  of  access  to  the 
gospel. 


XII 

THE  SPOTTED  TIGER  FOILED 

From  "  The  Cobra's  Den  ",  by  Rev.  Jacob  Cham- 
berlain, M.D.,  D.D. 

My  camp  was  pitched  in  a  valley  between 
mountains  towering  up  4,000  feet  above  the 
sea,  and  1,700  feet  above  my  tent.  I  had 
been  visiting,  instructing  and  encouraging 
the  little  Christian  congregation  there,  and 
preaching  in  all  the  surrounding  towns  and 
villages  for  several  days.  It  was  necessary 
to  move  camp  that  day  to  another  cluster  of 
Christian  villages  on  the  other  side  of  the 
mountain,  many  miles  around  by  a  tortu- 
ous route  through  the  valleys.  I  had  much 
writing  to  do,  and  did  not  wish  to  spare  the 
time  for  a  circuitous  journey,  so  despatched 
my  tent  and  camp  equipage  in  the  early 
morning,  to  be  pitched  in  the  new  place,  and 
sent  word  to  the  people  in  that  cluster  of 
villages  that  I  would  hold  a  meeting  in  the 
central  village  that  evening  at  dusk.  My 
pony  was  to  meet  me  at  the  east  foot  of  the 
mountain  to  take  me  three  miles  to  my  new 
camp. 

109 


no  The  Cobra's  Den 

Spending  a  good  part  of  the  day  in  the 
Httle  village  schoolhouse,  quietly  writing 
letters,  I  walked  up  the  mountain  side  in 
the  afternoon  by  a  footpath  that  I  knew. 
Half  way  up  I  stopped  to  rest  under  a  ban- 
yan-tree, or  jungle-fig  tree,  where,  a  year 
before,  a  native  farmer,  running  down  the 
path,  had  come  upon  an  old  she-bear  and 
her  cub,  under  this  tree,  eating  the  wild  figs. 
The  old  bear,  thinking  he  was  rushing  for 
her  cub,  sprang  upon  him,  hugged  him,  and 
badly  mangled  his  right  arm  until  her  cub 
had  vanished  in  the  bushes,  when  she  left 
him  and  followed  her  cub.  The  man  was 
brought  into  my  hospital,  and  for  many 
weeks  it  was  a  question  whether  he  would 
ever  regain  the  use  of  his  right  arm.  He 
finally  did,  however,  and  when  the  English 
judge  of  the  district  organized  a  hunt  for 
the  bear,  in  which  I  joined,  he  was  there  to 
show  us  where  the  tussle  had  taken  place, 
and  help  us  find  his  old  enemy. 

There  are  many  wild  beasts  inhabiting 
these  mountain  jungles;  wild  boar,  deer,  In- 
dian elk,  hyenas,  jackals,  wolves,  an  occa- 
sional striped  tiger,  and  more  spotted  tigers. 

The  spotted  tigers  have  spots  like  a  leop- 
ard, but  are  not  leopards,  for  they  have 
claws  like  a  tiger  and  cannot  climb  trees 
as  a  leopard  can.    In  size  they  are  between 


The  Spotted  Tiger  Foiled      1 1 1 

a  royal  tiger  and  a  leopard.  In  disposition 
and  habits  they  are  tigers  and  they  have  a 
tiger's  strength.  A  friend  of  mine,  from  an 
opposite  hill,  saw  one  of  them  spring  upon  a 
small  horse,  kill  it,  suck  its  blood,  and  then 
drag  it  to  its  lair  in  the  mountain  recess. 
The  spotted  tigers  do  much  more  damage 
in  our  region  than  the  striped,  as  they  are 
much  more  numerous.  If  one  gets  a  taste 
of  human  blood  nothing  else  will  satisfy  it. 

The  government  pays  a  reward  for  the 
killing  of  all  ravenous  beasts,  and  especially 
for  those  that  are  known  to  have  killed 
human  beings.  The  skins  are  delivered  to 
the  government  official  who  pays  the  re- 
ward, and  were  at  that  time  periodically 
sold  at  auction.  At  such  a  sale,  v/hich  I 
attended  and  made  some  purchases,  the  skin 
of  a  spotted  tiger  was  sold  which  was  cer- 
tified to  have  killed  and  eaten  nine  men, 
women  and  children.  Another  had  killed 
seven;  another  five;  another  four,  and  an- 
other two. 

We  usually  carry  arms  through  these 
mountain  jungles,  but  that  day  I  had  none. 
I  had  made  the  ascent  of  1,700  feet  and, 
walking  along  the  west  slope  of  the  summit 
for  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  I  had  crossed  over  to 
the  east  side  of  the  rocky  crest. 

It  was  not  one  hour  before  sundown,  of 


112  The  Cobra's  Den 

a  cloudy,  drizzly  afternoon.  I  had  my 
double  umbrella,  black  inside  and  white 
outside,  for  fending  off  both  sun  and  rain, 
but  had  closed  it  over  my  hand,  without 
clasping  it,  to  go  through  a  narrow  open- 
ing in  the  bushes.  I  had  crossed  a  little 
open  grass-plot  of  a  few  rods,  and  was  just 
entering  a  narrow  footpath  through  the 
mountain  jungle,  that  would  take  me  down 
to  the  east  foot  of  the  mountain,  where  I 
was  to  meet  my  pony. 

Suddenly  a  spotted  tiger  sprang  into  the 
path,  between  the  bushes,  and  disputed  pass- 
age. I  saw  at  once  what  he  wanted;  only 
great  hunger  impels  these  tigers  to  come 
out  during  the  day;  he  had  no  breakfast, 
and  wanted  missionary  meat  for  supper. 
I  did  not  wish  him  to  have  it ;  I  had  an  ap- 
pointment for  that  evening  with  the  people 
of  three  villages,  and  wished  to  keep  it. 
He  stood  in  the  only  path  through  that 
dense  mountain  jungle,  glaring  at  me.  I 
eyed  him  equally  intently,  and  gaining  his 
eye,  held  it  while  I  formed  my  plan. 

It  is  always  best  if  a  scrimmage  is  to 
take  place  to  be  the  attacking  party.  My 
grandmother  used  to  teach  me  that  every- 
thing would  come  in  use  within  seven  years, 
if  you  only  kept  it.  When  I  was  a  boy  I 
had  gone  out  among  an   Indian  tribe  in 


The  Spotted  Tiger  Foiled      113 

Michigan,  and  learned  their  war-whoop. 
I  had  kept  it  for  thrice  seven  years,  but  it 
had  proved  trebly  serviceable  then.  When 
my  plan  of  attack  was  formed,  springing 
forward  toward  the  tiger  I  raised  this  war- 
whoop,  and  at  the  same  time  suddenly  raised 
my  double  umbrella. 

What  it  was  that  could  so  suddenly  change 
a  perpendicular  dark  figure  into  a  circu- 
lar white  object,  and  at  the  same  time  emit 
such  an  unearthly  yell,  the  tiger  did  not 
know.  He  stood  his  ground,  however,  until 
I  dashed  forward  and,  suddenly  shutting 
my  umbrella,  raised  it  to  strike  him  over 
the  head.  It  seemed  instantly  to  occur  to 
him  that  I  was  the  more  dangerous  animal 
of  the  two,  and  that  one  of  us  had  better 
run ;  as  I  did  not,  he  did.  Springing  aside, 
over  a  bush,  into  the  open  ground,  he  made 
for  the  crest  of  the  hill  which  I  had  just 
passed.  The  crest  consisted  of  granite 
slabs  and  masses,  thrown  up  perpendicu- 
larly by  some  convulsion  of  nature.  From 
a  crevice  of  these  there  had  grown  a  ban- 
yan-tree whose  branches  spread  out  over 
their  tops.  Between  the  leaves  and  the 
rocks,  in  one  place,  I  could  see  the  sky 
through,  in  a  circle  as  large  as  a  bicycle 
wheel. 

For  this  the  tiger  made.    His  spring  was 


114  The  Cobra's  Den 

the  neatest  specimen  of  animal  motion  I  had 
ever  seen.  His  fore-paws  were  stretched 
straight  out  and  he  had  his  nose  between 
them.  His  hind  feet  were  stretched  equally 
straight,  and  between  them  his  tail. 
Straight  as  an  arrow  he  went  through  that 
opening.  I  knew  that  about  twenty  feet 
down  on  the  other  side  he  would  strike  on 
grassy  ground,  and  that  that  slope  led  down 
to  a  little  stream,  which  my  path  again 
crossed  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  be- 
low. Wishing  to  make  the  subjugation 
complete,  I  scrambled  up  to  this  open  place 
and,  looking  through  the  leaves  at  the  side 
of  the  opening,  I  saw  the  tiger  trotting 
down  the  slope,  but  looking  around  every 
now  and  then,  evidently  wondering  whether 
he  had  done  a  wise  thing  in  running  away. 
Putting  my  head  with  its  big,  white  sun 
hat  into  the  opening  I  once  more  raised  the 
war-whoop.  Down  he  dashed  again  with 
impetuosity.  Withdrawing  my  head  until 
he  slackened  his  pace,  I  repeated  the  opera- 
tion and  on  he  dashed,  and  so  continued, 
until  I  had  seen  him  cross  the  stream,  and 
go  up  into  the  woods  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  valley.  Then,  feeling  sure  that  I  would 
see  no  more  of  him  that  day,  I  turned  and 
wended  my  way  down  three  miles  to  the 


The  Spotted  Tiger  Foiled      1 1 5 

foot  of  the  hill,  mounted  my  pony  and  kept 
my  appointment. 

I  am  thankful  to  say  that  such  incidents 
are  not  common  in  our  preaching  tours. 
I  have  never  known  of  a  missionary  being 
seriously  injured  by  ravenous  beasts  or 
venomous  reptiles.  But  such  an  incident 
forcibly  reminds  us  of  the  protection  prom- 
ised in  the  last  few  verses  of  the  gospels 
of  Matthew  and  Mark  in  connection  with 
the  giving  of  the  Great  Commission,  and 
that  promise  is  wonderfully   fulfilled. 


XIII 

THE  ANGRY  MOB  AND  THE  STORY 
OF  THE  CROSS 

From  "  The  Cobra's  Den  ",  by  Rev.  Jacob  Cham- 
berlain, M.D.,  D.D 

"  Swing  shut  the  city  gates ;  run  and  tell 
the  sentinels  to  stand  guard  and  let  no  one 
pass  in  or  out  till  we  have  made  way  with 
these  preachers  of  other  Gods.  No  news 
shall  ever  go  out  of  the  city  as  to  what  has 
become  of  them." 

It  was  in  a  walled  city  of  the  Kingdom 
of  Hyderabad,  and  we  were  on  a  gospel 
preaching  tour,  the  first  ever  made  in  the 
dominions  of  the  Nizam,  in  August,  1863. 
We  had  been  traveling  since  early  morning, 
preaching  in  all  the  towns  and  villages  on 
the  way,  and  arrived  before  the  gates  of 
the  city  during  the  heat  of  the  day,  and 
camped  outside  of  its  walls.  We  had  heard 
of  it  as  the  wickedest  city  of  the  realm. 

About  3  P.  M.,  my  four  native  assistants 
went  into  the  city  to  offer  Scriptures  and 
tracts  for  sale.  After  half  or  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour  I  went  through  the  iron 
gates,  the  largest  and  strongest  city  gates  I 
116 


The  Angry  Mob  iiy 

had  up  to  that  time  seen.  The  city,  with  its 
high  granite  walls,  lay  four  square,  with 
a  gate  in  the  middle  of  each  side,  and  the 
main  streets  running  from  gate  to  gate, 
crossing  each  other  at  right  angles  at  the 
market-place. 

Just  after  entering  I  met  my  native  as- 
sistants returning,  with  a  hooting  rabble 
following  them.  They  told  me  that  it  was 
not  safe  to  do  any  work  within  the  city. 
They  had  sold  a  few  gospels  and  tracts  to 
both  Mohammedans  and  Hindus.  The 
Mohammedan  zealots  and  Brahman  priests 
had  been  diligently  examining  the  gospels 
and  saw  that  their  systems  must  go  if  these 
Scriptures  were  beUeved,  and  they  were 
joining  in  an  effort  to  stop  the  people  buy- 
ing and  drive  the  catechists  out  of  the  city. 
Herod  and  Pilate  became  friends  for  this 
purpose. 

Some  of  the  gospels  were  bound  in  yel- 
lowish buff  bookbinder's  muslin.  The  Mo- 
hammedans sent  messengers  running 
through  the  streets  saying  that  they  were 
bound  in  hog  skin,  and  warning  the  faith- 
ful not  to  touch  them.  The  Brahmans  sent 
messengers  to  tell  the  Hindus  that  they 
w^ere  bound  in  calf  skin,  the  skin  of  the 
sacred  cow,  and  telling  them  not  to  be  pol- 
luted by  them. 


ii8  The  Cobra's  Den 

"  Have  you  proclaimed  the  gospel  mes- 
sage to  the  people?  "  I  asked  the  catechlsts. 

"  No,  sir ;  we  have  only  sold  a  few  books 
and  tracts." 

"  Then  we  must  do  so  now.  Did  we  not 
make  a  solemn  vow  that  we  would  not  pass 
a  single  town  or  village  without  proclaiming 
the  Master's  message,  and  have  we  not  His 
covenant,  '  Lo,  I  am  with  you  ? '  I  at  least 
must  go  to  the  market-place  and  preach. 
You  need  not  accompany  me  unless  you 
think  best." 

"  We  did  make  that  vow.  We  will  go 
with  you,"  they  said. 

We  walked  with  slow  and  firm  step  up 
the  street  to  the  market.  The  crowd  fol- 
lowed, increasing  by  the  way.  Seeing  a 
foreigner  with  the  catechists  boldly  walk- 
ing up  the  street,  the  Brahman  and  Moham- 
medan zealots  joined  the  throng. 

We  reached  the  centre  of  the  town  where 
the  streets  crossed,  and  where  was  the  mar- 
ket-place, with  a  roof  supported  upon  large 
masonry  pillars.  Stepping  up  the  steps  I 
said  to  the  catechists :  "  Place  your  backs 
against  these  pillars,  so  that  no  one  can  at- 
tack you  from  behind,  and  keep  a  sharp 
watch  on  all,  but  show  no  sign  of  fear.  The 
Master  is  with  us;  His  promise  is  good." 


The  Angry  Mob  119 

As  we  stood  there  we  could  see  three  of 
the  city  gates  standing  open  with  the  armed 
gate-keepers  sitting  under  the  arch  of  the 
gateways.  Turning  to  the  people  I  spoke 
politely  to  them  in  Telugu,  which  was 
understood  by  all. 

"  Leave  this  place  at  once,"  was  the  angry 
response. 

I  complimented  them  on  the  polite  re- 
ception they  gave  to  visitors,  telling  them 
I  had  visited  more  than  a  thousand  towns 
in  the  Telugu  country,  but  it  had  been  re- 
served for  them  to  show  the  most  polite 
reception  that  I  had  thus  far  received.  A 
few  smiled,  but  the  rest  only  scowled  the 
more. 

"  Friends,"  said  I,  "  I  have  come  from 
far  to  tell  you  some  good  news.  I  will  tell 
it  to  you  and  then  we  v/ill  go." 

"  No,"  said  some,  who  were  evidently 
leaders,  "  we  will  not  hear  you.  You  have 
come  to  proclaim  another  God.  You  do  so 
at  your  peril.  You  see  this  angry  mob. 
One  word  from  us  and  you  are  dead. 
Leave  the  city  instantly  and  we  will  see 
you  safely  out  of  the  gates.  Dare  to  say 
a  word  against  our  gods  and  we  will  loose 
this  mob  upon  you." 

We  had  seen  the  angry  mob  tearing  up 


I20  The  Cobra's  Den 

the  cobble  paving-stones  and  gathering 
them  in  the  skirts  of  their  garments  to  stone 
us  with. 

"  We  have  no  desire  to  abuse  your  gods," 
I  said,  "  but  have  come  to  deliver  a  message. 
We  will  not  go  until  we  have  proclaimed 
it." 

Then  came  the  order,  "  Swing  shut  the 
gates." 

I  saw  one  nudge  another,  saying,  "  You 
throw  the  first  stone  and  I  will  throw  the 
second."  But  all  who  had  stones  to  throw 
were  within  my  vision.  They  quailed  a 
little  under  my  keen  glance,  and  hesitated. 
I  seemed  to  feel  the  presence  of  the  Mas- 
ter as  though  He  were  standing  by  my  side 
with  His  hand  on  my  shoulder,  saying,  *'  I 
am  with  you.  I  will  tell  you  what  to  say." 
I  was  not  conscious  of  any  anxiety  about 
my  personal  safety.  My  whole  soul  was 
wrapped  up  in  the  thought,  ''  How  shall  I 
get  my  Master's  oflFer  of  salvation  before 
these  people  ?  " 

"  Brothers,"  said  I,  "  it  is  not  to  revile 
your  gods  that  I  have  come  this  long  way  ; 
far  from  it.  I  have  come  with  a  royal  mes- 
sage from  a  King  far  higher  than  your 
Nizam ;  I  have  come  to  tell  a  story  sweeter 
than  mortal  ear  has  ever  heard.  But  it 
is  evident  this  multitude  does  not  wish  to 


The  Angry  Mob  121 

hear  it."  They  thought  I  was  weakening 
and  quieted  down  to  see  what  would  hap- 
pen. 

"  But,"  I  said  "  I  see  five  men  before  me 
who  do  wish  to  hear  my  story.  Will  you 
all  please  step  back  a  little  ?  I  will  tell  these 
five  why  I  came  here,  and  then  you  may 
stone  me."  I  had  been  carefully  scanning 
the  crowd  and  had  seen  five  honest  coun- 
tenances, men  who  had  shown  no  sympathy 
with  the  abuse  that  had  been  heaped  upon 
us. 

"  Brother  with  the  red-bordered  turban," 
said  I,  addressing  a  venerable  Brahman 
who  stood  at  the  right ;  "  you  would  like  to 
hear  my  wonderful  story  before  they  stone 
me,  would  you  not?  Be  frank,  for  there 
are  four  others  who  wish  to  hear." 

'*  Yes,  sir ;  I  would  like  to  hear  what  your 
story  is,"  said  he,  speaking  up  courageously 
and  kindly. 

"  Brother  with  the  gold-bordered  turban 
at  my  left,  you,  too,  would  like  to  hear,  and 
you  with  the  yellow  turban,  and  you  with 
the  brown-bordered,  and  you  with  the 
pink." 

I  had  rightly  judged  these  men,  for  each 
assented.  They  were  curious  to  know  what 
I  had  to  say. 

"  Now,  will  you  five  men  please  come 


122  The  Cobra's  Den 

forward,  and  I  will  tell  you  alone.  All  you 
others  step  back;  step  back;  when  I  have 
told  these  five  the  story  you  may  come  for- 
ward and  throw  your  stones." 

The  five  stepped  forward ;  the  rest  reluct- 
antly stepped  back  a  little.  ''  Brothers," 
said  I,  in  a  subdued  tone,  "  what  is  it  you 
chant  as  you  go  to  the  river  for  your  daily 
ablutions  ?  Is  it  not  this  ?  "  I  chanted  it 
in  Sanskrit,  adding  in  Telugu,  "  And  is 
not  this  its  meaning :  '  I  am  a  sinner,  my 
actions  are  sinful.  My  soul  is  sinful.  All 
that  pertains  to  me  is  polluted  with  sin.  Do 
Thou,  O  God,  that  hast  mercy  on  those  who 
seek  Thy  Refuge,  do  Thou  take  away  my 
sm. 

These  five  Brahmans  at  once  became  my 
friends.  One  who  correctly  chants  their 
Vedas  and  their  mantras  they  always  look 
up  to  with  respect. 

"  Now,  do  you  know  how  God  can  do 
what  you  ask  ?  How  can  He  take  away  the 
burden  of  our  sin  and  give  us  relief  ?  " 

''  No,  sir ;  we  do  not  know.  Would  that 
we  did." 

"  I  know ;  shall  I  tell  you  the  secret  ?  " 

"Yes,  sir;  please  tell  us." 

The  multitude,  seeing  the  Brahmans  con- 
versing with  the  foreigner  with  evident  re- 


The  Angry  Mob  123 

spect,  quieted  still  more  and  pressed  for- 
ward to  listen. 

''  Step  back,  step  back,"  said  I,  "  It  is  only 
these  five  to  whom  I  am  to  tell  my  story. 
Step  back  and  let  me  tell  it  to  them  alone." 
This  only  increased  their  desire  to  hear, 
as  I  went  on: 

"  Brothers,  is  it  possible  for  us  by  our 
own  acts  to  expiate  our  sins?  Can  we  by 
painful  journeys  to  the  hoHest  of  all  your 
holy  places  change  those  sinful  natures  that 
you  bemoan?  Does  not  your  own  Telugu 
poet,  Vemana,  say: 


*  The  Muslim  who  to  Tirupati  goes,  on  pilgrim- 
age, 

Does  not  thereby  become  a  saint  of  Siva's 
house. 

Becomes  a  dog,  a  lion,  when  he  bathes  in 
Ganges'  stream? 

Benares  turns  not  harlot  into  true  and  trusted 
wife.' " 


Hearing  their  own  language  chanted,  the 
people  pressed  forward  still  more  intently. 
"  Nay,  brothers,  it  is  not  by  these  outward 
acts  that  we  can  attain  to  harmony  with 
God.  Does  not  your  beloved  Vemana  again 
say: 


124  The  Cobra's  Den 

"  *  'Tis  not  by  roaming  deserts  wild,  nor  gazing 
at  the  sky; 

'Tis  not  by  bathing  in  the  stream,  nor  pilgrim- 
age to  shrine; 

But  thine  own  heart  must  make  thee  pure,  and 
then,  and  then  alone, 

Shalt  thou  see  Him  no  eye  hath  kenned,  shalt 
thou  behold  thy  King.'" 

"  Now,  how  can  our  hearts  be  made  pure, 
so  that  we  may  see  God?  I  have  learned 
the  secret,  and  will  tell  you." 

Then  I  told  the  story  of  stories ;  and  as  I 
recounted  the  love  of  God  the  Father,  who 
"  so  loved  the  world ;  "  the  birth  of  the  Lord 
of  Life  in  the  manger  of  Bethlehem  when 
He  took  on  human  form;  His  wonderful 
life,  His  blessed  words.  His  marvelous 
deeds  of  mercy  and  healing,  the  mob  be- 
came an  audience.  Gradually  and  imper- 
ceptibly I  had  raised  my  voice  until  all 
down  those  three  streets  the  multitude  could 
hear,  and  as  I  pictured  the  scene  on  Cal- 
vary in  the  graphic  words  the  Master  Him- 
self gave  me  that  day,  and  told  them  that  it 
was  for  them,  too,  far  away  here  in  India, 
that  He  had  suffered  the  agony  and  shed 
His  blood,  down  the  cheeks  of  those  who 
had  been  clamouring  for  our  life,  I  saw  tears 
coursing  and  dropping  upon  the  pavements 
they  had  torn  up  to  stone  us  with.     Far 


The  Angry  Mob  125 

earlier  in  the  story  I  had  seen  them  stealth- 
ily dropping  their  armfuls  of  stones  into 
the  gutter. 

How  they  did  listen  as  I  went  on  to  tell 
them  of  the  resurrection  and  of  the  ascen- 
sion from  Mt.  Olivet,  when  Jesus  passed 
up  through  the  clouds  to  be  with  His  Father 
and  our  Father,  and  that  now  all  we  had  to 
do  was  to  repent  and  forsake  our  sins,  and 
that  when  our  time  would  come  to  die.  He 
would  take  our  souls  to  heaven  to  dwell 
with  Him  in  eternal  bliss. 

"  Now,"  said  I,  folding  my  arms,  and 
standing  before  them,  "  I  have  finished  my 
story,  and  you  may  come  and  stone  me." 

"  No,  no,"  they  said,  ''  we  don't  want  to 
stone  you  now.  We  did  not  know  whose 
messenger  you  were,  nor  what  you  had  come 
to  tell  us.  Do  your  books  tell  more  about 
this  wonderful  Redeemer  ?  " 

"  Yes,"  said  I,  "  this  is  the  history  of  His 
life  on  earth ;  "  and  taking  up  a  Gospel  of 
Luke  I  read  brief  portions  here  and  there, 
adding,  "  I  have  not  told  you  half  of  His 
gracious  words  and  deeds.  We  are  going 
on  our  way  in  the  early  morning.  Would 
you  not  like  to  buy  some  of  these  histories 
of  the  Redeemer  Jesus,  so  that  you  may 
learn  all  about  Him,  even  though  we  have 
gone  our  way  ? " 


126  The  Cobra's  Den 

With  that  their  wallets  were  produced 
and  they  purchased  all  the  gospels  and 
tracts  we  had  with  us,  and  appointed  a 
deputation  of  their  best  men  to  escort  us 
to  our  camp,  begging  us  to  forgive  them  for 
the  insults  they  had  heaped  upon  us,  for 
they  knew  not  whose  messengers  we  were. 

Verily,  the  story  of  the  cross  has  not  lost 
its  power.  It  still  reaches  the  ear  and 
touches  the  heart  of  men  of  every  tongue,  in 
every  clime.  Happy  are  we  if  we  have  a 
part  in  making  it  known,  here  and  in  all 
the  world. 


XIV 

THE  STORY  OF  AN  INDIA  FAMINE 

(In  Two  Parts) 

From  "  While  Sewing  Sandals,  Tales  of  a  Tel- 
ugu  Pariah  Tribe  ",  by  Emma  Rauschenbusch- 
Clough,  Ph.D.,  Member  of  the  Royal  Asiatic 
Society  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland. 

Part  I.  A  Great  Calamity, 

There  were  many  who  anxiously 
watched  the  clouds  in  the  year  1876,  for  if 
another  monsoon  season  passed  by  with 
cloudless  sky  a  famine  was  inevitable. 

Various  ways  and  means  were  used  of 
predicting  the  evil  days  that  seemed  to  be 
near,  but  the  old  gardener  in  the  mission 
compound  had  a  way  all  his  own,  and  con- 
fidently asserted  to  every  one  that  without 
doubt  a  famine  was  coming. 

"  Every  day,"  he  said,  "  the  Dora^  came 
out  on  the  verandah  and  looked  at  a  little 
board  with  a  thin  glass  bottle  on  it,  and 
in  the  bottle  there  was  a  little  mud.  And 
he  looked  carefully  and  said,   *  Gardener, 

'Gentleman,  or  white  foreigner. 
127 


128         While  Sewing  Sandals 

there  is  going  to  be  a  famine,'  and  I  said 
surely  it  would  come." 

I  did  not  grasp  his  meaning.  "  What 
sort  of  board  and  glass  bottle  and  mud  was 
it?"  I  asked. 

"  Is  there  not  one  on  the  verandah  now?  " 
he  answered  and  pointed  to  the  barometer. 

I  knew  many  who  lived  through  the  fam- 
ine of  1876-78.  Those  who  were  children 
during  those  years  were  stunted  in  growth, 
and  some  had  a  look  of  premature  age  on 
their  faces.  But  old  men  and  women  re- 
membered a  famine  which  must  have  had 
unusual  horrors,  for  they  said :  "  Men  ate 
men  in  that  famine."  I  was  slow  to  believe 
them,  for  I  had  heard  my  husband  say  that 
though  thousands  died  in  1876-78,  and  men 
were  fierce  with  the  pangs  of  hunger,  he 
had  never  seen  a  trace  of  cannibaHsm. 
When,  therefore,  some  one  told  me  of  the 
famine  of  1836,  that  "  men  ate  men,"  I  al- 
ways asked  if  they  knew  of  any  one  who 
had  seen  it.  A  woman  did  tell  me  that  her 
mother  was  told  by  a  neighbour  that  she 
saw  a  woman  put  her  child  into  a  pot  and 
boil  it.  Her  voice  sank  to  a  whisper  as 
she  told  me.    It  seem.ed  too  horrible  to  tell. 

A  large  proportion  of  the  Madigas  live 
so  close  to  the  starvation  point  all  the  year 
round  that  the  first  failure  of  the  crops 


Story  of  an  India  Famine       129 

brouglit  hunger  to  their  door.  When  an- 
other rainy  season  passed  without  bringing 
sufficient  moisture  to  help  the  seed  to  sprout, 
there  was  great  distress.  The  cattle  were 
dying  of  hunger  and  thirst,  and  the  people 
found  an  occasional  meal  by  picking  the 
morsel  of  meat  off  the  bones  of  the  starved 
animals.  Many  began  to  eat  leaves,  seeds 
and  weeds. 

The  Ongole  Missionary's^  daily  visits  to 
the  "  board,  thin  bottle,  and  mud  inside," 
showed  the  anxiety  which  he  felt.  Ten 
years  had  passed  since  he  came  to  Ongole. 
He  counted  as  his  flock  3,269  Christians, 
nearly  all  from  the  Madigas.  He  knew 
they  were  destitute  and  poor  even  when 
harvests  were  plentiful.  The  emaciated 
figures  of  men  and  women  were  haunting 
the  compound  in  ever-increasing  numbers, 
calling  to  him  whenever  he  appeared  in  the 
verandah,  "  We're  dying !  we're  dying !  " 
Something  must  be  done. 

The  native  preachers  came  and  went  with 
careworn  faces.  They  knew  something  of 
the  activity  in  the  mission  bungalow,  of 
the  correspondence  with  the  Government  at 
Madras.  Ere  long  they  were  sent  out  with 
a  message  that  all  could  earn  enough  to  eat 

'Rev.  J.  E.  Clough,  D.D.,  of  the  American 
Baptist  Missionary  Union. 


130         While  Sewing  Sandals 

if  they  came  to  Razupallem,  where  the  Mis- 
sionary had  taken  a  contract  for  digging 
three  miles  of  the  Buckingham  Canal. 

One  of  the  preachers,  with  twenty  coolies, 
was  sent  ahead  to  prepare  the  camp.  The 
Missionary  came  and  showed  him  where  to 
put  up  the  rows  of  huts,  forming  little 
streets.  Several  wells  had  to  be  dug,  not 
deep,  for  water  was  near  the  surface.  The 
potters  in  the  surrounding  villages  were 
given  an  order  for  pots,  that  the  starving 
crowd  might  buy  for  a  copper,  and  boil  their 
meal  over  a  fire  of  dry  leaves  and  sticks. 

At  the  appointed  time  the  preachers  came 
into  Ongole  from  far  and  near  with  a  multi- 
tude of  starving  people.  The  Missionary 
had  sent  Komatis  ahead  to  Razupallem  with 
bags  of  grain  to  sell.  He  sent  word  to  the 
preacher  who  was  there  to  be  ready,  for  a 
great  crowd  would  come  in  the  afternoon. 
At  two  o'clock  they  began  to  arrive,  and  as 
the  preacher  and  his  helpers  looked  over  the 
plain  towards  Ongole,  the  advancing  multi- 
tude seemed  to  them  like  a  huge  ocean-wave 
rolling  upon  them.  The  huts  were  soon 
filled.  Those  who  found  no  room  had  to  lie 
under  the  trees. 

But  the  tumult  and  contentions  of  that 
night!  The  Missionary  tried  to  establish 
order;    but  who  can  reason  with  hungry 


Story  of  an  India  Famine       131 

men?  There  was  bargaining  for  pots; 
there  was  wrangling  over  grain.  So  eager 
for  food  were  they  that  three  preachers  had 
to  walk  up  and  down  among  the  huts  to  see 
that  they  were  not  used  for  fuel,  or  that 
they  were  not  set  on  fire  by  carelessness  as 
the  food  was  boiling  in  the  pots. 

In  the  morning  the  digging  began.  Thirty 
preachers  were  made  overseers.  Crude 
picks  and  shovels  were  supplied.  The  men 
did  the  digging;  the  women  filled  baskets 
with  earth,  and  carried  them  away  on  their 
heads.  During  those  first  few  days  the  Mis- 
sionary insisted  that  the  preachers,  too,  must 
dig.  "  After  you  come  and  show  me  your 
hands  full  of  blisters  I  shall  be  certain  you 
know  how  it  feels  to  dig,  and  you  will  not  be 
hard  on  any  one."  He  feared  that  some 
might  assume  a  harsh  attitude  when  urging 
the  starving  people  to  work. 

Wages  were  good.  Those  who  had 
worked  awhile  went  home  and  sent  friends 
and  relatives.  The  sick  were  brought  in 
litters.  Those  who  were  too  weak  to  work 
were  given  an  allowance.  But  there  was 
danger  lurking  near  in  the  abundance  at  the 
camp.  Some  who  came  were  too  hungry  to 
wait;  they  ate  the  half-boiled  grain  out  of 
the  pot — then  lay  down  and  died.  Many  a 
time  the  preachers  tried  to  keep  these  half- 


132         While  Sewing  Sandals 

starved  arrivals  from  eating,  but  the  remon- 
strance only  angered  them.  There  were 
others  so  emaciated,  no  matter  how  much 
they  ate  they  were  always  hungry.  They 
ate  more  and  oftener  than  their  starved 
bodies  could  endure.  Soon  they  were  found 
lying  somewhere,  dead. 

The  death-rate  was  large.  No  one  knew 
how  many  died  each  day.  The  living  were 
so  full  of  trouble  they  could  not  dig  graves 
for  the  dead ;  all  they  could  do  was  to  carry 
them  outside  into  the  cactus  hedge.  Every 
one  in  the  camp  was  sad  at  heart,  and  many 
were  full  of  fear.  Cholera  was  abroad  in 
the  camp,  and  death  stared  every  one  in  the 
face.  There  were  women  there  without  hus- 
band or  brother  to  care  for  them;  there 
were  orphans  who  were  now  to  learn  that 
Christianity  is  kind  to  the  fatherless.  The 
road  sides  every  where  were  Hned  with  the 
bleaching  bones  of  those  who  had  lain  down 
on  the  road  to  die.  The  heat  was  intense, 
and  there  was  no  shade  where  they  were 
digging.  "  Our  hearts  were  very  heavy," 
the  preachers  told  me,  "  and  our  Dora's  hair 
turned  white  during  that  year." 

Each  preacher  had  about  one  hundred 
people  working  under  him.  With  these  he 
became  acquainted,  even  though  there  was 
much  coming  and  going.     Often  during  the 


Story  of  an  India  Famine       133 

day  the  diggers  would  sit  down  for  a  short 
rest,  and  then  the  preacher  would  hear  them 
tell,  in  broken  words,  with  a  look  of  utter 
misery,  of  scattered  families,  and  those  who 
died ;  and  there  was  always  the  wail,  "  We 
are  all  dying."  Then  was  the  time  to  say 
comforting  words.  Distress  was  so  great, 
no  one  thought  of  the  demons  that  have 
their  eyes  ever  directed  to  this  earth,  thirst- 
ing for  blood.  The  terrors  of  the  famine 
were  greater  than  the  terrors  inspired  by 
demons,  and  who  could  stop,  in  the  search 
for  a  morsel  to  eat,  to  propitiate  them  all? 
As  the  preachers  sat  with  an  occasional 
group  of  those  who  wanted  rest,  they  said, 
**  Our  God  does  not  send  trouble  because 
He  is  thirsting  for  the  lives  of  men.  He  has 
let  this  come  upon  us  because  He  saw  that 
men  were  going  wrong — they  were  doing 
puja  to  gods  in  whom  there  is  no  salvation. 
Jesus  Christ,  by  dying  for  us,  has  taken  all 
our  troubles  on  Himself."  Then  they  took 
their  New  Testaments,  which  they  ever  had 
with  them,  and  read  to  the  people  verses 
that  seemed  like  balm  on  their  sore  hearts 
and  troubled  minds — especially,  "  Come 
unto  Me,  all  ye  that  labour  and  are  heavy 
laden,  and  I  will  give  you  rest."  And  they 
went  back  to  work.  After  a  time  they  said, 
"  Read  us  that  verse  again  out  of  your  holy 


134         While  Sewing  Sandals 

book."  Never  had  they  heard  such  words ! 
As  they  were  digging,  the  memory  of  their 
old  cults  grew  faint.  In  their  misery  they 
turned  to  Jesus  Christ. 

The  contract  was  finished  after  eight 
months'  work.  Rain  came.  The  seed  was 
sown,  but  it  rotted  in  the  ground.  The 
crowds  that  came  to  the  mission  bungalow 
in  Ongole  were  so  great  that  though  the 
Dora  stood  on  the  east  verandah  and  gave 
relief  to  the  men  to  carry  hence,  and  the 
Dorasani  stood  on  the  west  verandah  daily 
giving  grain  to  women  who  had  come  with 
starving  children,  it  was  not  enough.  When 
the  servants  carried  the  noon  meal  the  few 
yards  from  the  cook-house  to  the  bungalow, 
they  had  to  hold  the  dishes  high  above  their 
heads,  and  start  on  a  run,  for  there  were 
starved  creatures  everywhere  ready  to 
snatch  it  from  their  hands. 

The  preachers  came  in  from  the  field,  re- 
porting great  distress.  The  Christians 
were  dying,  especially  the  aged  and  the  chil- 
dren. The  Missionary  could  not  journey 
here  and  there  bringing  rehef.  His  pres- 
ence was  imperative  at  headquarters.  So 
he  sent  his  preachers,  all  over  the  country, 
with  money  to  give  to  the  Christians.  But 
they  had  orders  not  to  refuse  any  starving 
one  who  asked  for  enough  to  buy  a  meal. 


Story  of  an  India  Famine       135 

Again  rain  came.  Bullocks  and  buffa- 
loes had  died;  men  harnessed  themselves 
to  the  ploughs.  A  crop  was  growing,  but 
a  plague  of  locusts  came  and  destroyed  it. 
Ships  came  into  the  harbour  at  Madras 
laden  with  grain,  for  Government  did  its 
utmost  to  save  the  people.  For  the  third 
time,  seed-corn  was  given  out  plentifully 
to  all  who  asked.  For  ten  rupees  they  car- 
ried away  bags  of  seed-corn  worth  thirty 
rupees.  In  the  years  that  followed,  they  re- 
membered what  had  been  done  for  them. 
The  activity  at  Ongole,  the  ceaseless  readi- 
ness to  save  from  starvation  even  the  lowest 
stratum  of  society,  was  a  display  of  the 
power  of  Christianity  that  was  a  wonder  in 
the  eyes  of  thousands.  "  It  is  a  good  re- 
ligion," they  said,  one  and  all. 

A  crop  of  millet,  maturing  quickly,  tided 
the  people  over  several  months,  and  then  a 
substantial  crop  of  rice  was  harvested.  A 
great  calamity  was  over.  What  were  the 
effects  ? 

Part  II.  A  Modern  Pentecost 

As  the  native  preachers  went  about  on 
their  fields  toward  the  close  of  the  famine, 
they  saw  that  hundreds  were  ready  for  bap- 
tism. In  villages  where  heretofore  they 
had  been  received  in  a  half-hearted  kind  of 


136         While  Sewing  Sandals 

way,  they  now  found  an  open  door.  Those 
early  Ongole  preachers  were  a  remarkable 
group  of  men.  People  said,  ''  They  have 
faith;  when  they  pray  to  their  God  He 
hears  them."  Their  preaching  was  char- 
acterized neither  by  profound  thinking  nor 
by  brilliant  oratory.  It  was  just  the  story 
of  Christ  and  Him  crucified  told  over  and 
over  again.  Much  as,  in  the  days  of  primi- 
tive Christianity,  simple  but  earnest  men 
told  the  sublime  story  of  the  life  and  death 
of  Christ  to  every  one,  so  these  men  went 
about  making  Christ  the  centre  of  their 
thoughts  and  words. 

And  now  these  preachers  came  to  the 
Missionary  to  talk  with  him  about  the  hun- 
dreds, even  thousands,  who  were  ready  for 
baptism.  But  he  always  said,  "  Wait  till 
the  famine  is  over."  Word  had  gone  out 
some  time  ago  that  no  more  famine-money 
would  be  issued  in  Ongole;  still  he  feared 
that  the  hope  of  further  help  might  form  a 
motive  in  the  minds  of  some.  During  fif- 
teen months  there  had  not  been  a  single 
baptism.  But  he  knew  his  field ;  he  had 
refused  large  companies  who  came  and 
asked  for  baptism.  When  once  the  flood- 
gates were  opened,  none  would  be  able  to 
stay  the  tide.  A  letter  came  from  the  Mis- 
sion Secretary  in  Boston :  "  What  is  this  I 


Story  of  an  India  Famine       137 

hear  of  your  refusing  to  baptize  those  who 
sincerely  ask  for  the  ordinance?  Who  has 
given  you  a  right  to  do  this  ?  " 

In  June,  1878,  the  Missionary  wrote  to 
his  assistants  to  come  to  Vellumpilly,  ten 
miles  north  of  Ongole,  where  there  was  a 
traveller's  rest-house  by  the  side  of  the 
Gundlacumma  River,  and  a  grove  of  tama- 
rind trees.  He  asked  them  to  bring  with  them 
only  those  Christians  who  had  urgent  mat- 
ters to  lay  before  him,  and  to  leave  the  con- 
verts behind.  Contrary  to  orders,  the  con- 
verts followed  the  preachers,  and  when  the 
Missionary  came  to  Vellumpilly,  he  was  met 
by  a  multitude  asking  for  baptism. 

He  mounted  a  wall  where  he  could  look 
into  their  faces,  and  told  them  he  had  no 
further  help  to  give  them,  and  they  must 
return  home.  They  cried :  "  We  do  not 
want  help.  By  the  blisters  on  our  hands, 
we  can  prove  to  you  that  we  have  worked 
and  will  continue  to  work.  If  the  next 
crop  fail  we  shall  die.  We  want  to  die  as 
Christians.  Baptize  us  therefore !  "  He 
hesitated — again  the  same  cry.  Then  he 
withdrew  and  talked  with  the  preachers, 
who,  as  spokesmen  of  the  people,  repeated 
their  request.  He  dared  not  refuse  longer 
those  who  begged  to  be  received  into  the 
Church  of  Christ. 


138         While  Sewing  Sandals 

On  the  first  day  all  gathered  under  a 
large  banyan-tree,  sitting  close  together  on 
the  sand.  Many  voices  tried  to  join  in  the 
hymns  that  had  become  general  favourites. 
The  sound  was  discordant,  but  it  gave  evi- 
dence that  the  men  were  very  much  in 
earnest.  Then  the  Missionary  preached  on 
the  words  all  had  learned  during  the  famine 
— "  Come  unto  Me,  all  ye  that  labour." 
For  an  hour  and  a  half  he  talked,  and  none 
grew  weary;  he  had  borne  their  trouble 
with  them,  and  now  he  could  talk  out  of 
the  fullness  of  an  experience  in  which  all 
had  a  part. 

Early  next  morning  an  inquiry  meeting 
on  a  large  scale  began.  The  Missionary 
told  the  preachers  to  separate  the  people, 
each  taking  those  who  belonged  to  his 
special  field  under  one  of  the  trees.  There 
were  many  such  groups;  some  counted 
hundreds,  some  only  a  few.  There  was  not 
a  man  or  woman  who  was  not  called  upon 
to  give  evidence  that  they  had  entered  upon 
a  new  life. 

I  asked  the  old  preachers  many  ques- 
tions about  those  days  at  Vellumpilly. 
"  How  could  you  tell  that  a  man  or  woman 
was  a  Christian  ?  "  They  answered :  "  We 
had  many  ways  of  telling.     When  men  and 


Story  of  an  India  Famine       139 

women  prayed  and  sang  hymns,  we  knew 
that  divine  Hfe  was  in  them.  But  we  knew 
too,  when  they  stopped  drinking  sarai,  and 
fighting,  and  eating  carrion,  and  working 
on  Sundays,  there  was  a  change  in  them, 
and  we  could  tell."  Most  of  those  who  were 
baptized  at  Vellumpilly  were  really  believ- 
ers before  the  famine,  but  for  some  reason 
they  had  held  back.  The  preachers  could 
tell  by  the  attitude  of  responsiveness,  what 
a  change  had  been  wrought. 

On  the  first  day,  July  2nd,  1878,  a  begin- 
ning was  made — 614  were  baptized ;  on  the 
next  day  2,222  followed ;  on  the  third  day 
there  were  700  more, — 3,536  in  three  days. 
The  multitude  gathered  on  the  bank  of  the 
Gundlacumma  River,  where  the  water  at 
this  season  of  the  year  is  fairly  deep.  The 
six  ordained  preachers  took  turns,  two  offi- 
ciating at  a  time.  The  names  of  the  candi- 
dates were  read.  Without  delay,  and  with- 
out confusion,  one  followed  the  other.  As 
one  preacher  pronounced  the  formula :  "  T 
baptize  thee  in  the  name  of  the  Father,  the 
Son,  and  the  Holy  Ghost,"  the  other 
preacher  had  a  candidate  before  him,  ready 
again  to  speak  those  words,  sacred  in  the 
history  of  the  church.  And  thus  it  was 
possible  to  immerse  2,222  in  one  day.     The 


140         While  Sewing  Sandals 

Missionary  stood  by,  helping  and  directing, 
but  he  did  not  baptize  any  one  during  those 
days. 

More  were  coming.  Before  the  year 
was  over,  9,606  members  had  been  added 
to  the  church  at  Ongole,  making  a  total 
membership  of  13,000.  And  the  years  that 
followed  were  but  a  continuation  of  those 
years.  Once  again,  in  1890,  there  was  a 
similar  event,  when  1,671  were  baptized  in 
one  day. 

Every  degree  of  spiritual  life  and  energy 
was  represented  in  the  years  that  followed. 
There  were  high  courage,  persecutions  un- 
flinchingly borne,  and  noble  examples  set. 
But  there  was  also  spiritual  apathy,  mental 
and  moral  stagnation.  I  was  out  on  a  tour 
among  the  villages  with  my  husband  some 
years  ago.  In  the  shade  of  a  tamarind  grove 
he  was  preaching  to  a  crowd  of  Madigas 
sitting  before  him.  Twenty  Christians  from 
a  village  where  nearly  all  had  reverted  to 
heathenism  were  before  him.  He  had  been 
in  their  village  in  the  morning,  had  seen  the 
swamis  ^  to  which  they  were  again  making 
puja.2  The  men  had  let  their  "  juttus  "  ^ 
grow.  The  women  went  about  dirty  and 
uncombed,  quarreling  and  using  evil  words 

^  Gods.     ^  Worship.     '  Locks  of  hair  on  top  of 
the  head  to  afford  a  dwelling  place  for  a  god. 


Story  of  an  India  Famine       141 

to  each,  other.  Carrion  had  been  brought 
into  the  village.  There  was  filth  and 
squalor  beyond  telling. 

The  Missionary  described  the  condition 
in  which  he  had  found  them,  and  then  broke 
into  an  appeal :  "  Oh,  men  I  I  am  not 
ashamed  to  be  the  Guru  ^  of  poor  people, 
for  Christ  said  He  had  come  that  the  sick 
might  be  healed  and  the  poor  have  the  gos- 
pel preached  to  them.  But  when  I  some- 
times see  you  in  your  villages,  where  you 
are  weak  Christians,  then  I  have  a  pain  in 
my  mind,  and  I  ask  myself :  *  Why  has  God 
chosen  me  to  be  the  Guru  of  such  dirty 
people?  '  "  The  men  looked  at  each  other, 
and  the  women  involuntarily  stroked  down 
their  unkempt  hair. 

But  I  could  see,  as  I  watched  the  faces 
of  these  lowest  specimens  of  an  Indian  Pa- 
riah tribe,  that  blunt  as  they  were  to  any 
kind  of  teaching,  they  were  not  without  re- 
sponsiveness. I  could  see  the  shame  in  their 
faces.  They  were  willing  to  listen,  and  this 
responsiveness  proved  that  the  spark  of  di- 
vine life  was  there,  for  the  spiritually  dead 
cannot  hear.  But  alas  for  the  steep  road 
out  of  many  centuries  of  almost  brute  ex- 
istence ! 

^  Religious  teacher. 


142         While  Sewing  Sandals 

While  the  Missionary  comes  to  one  vil- 
lage of  this  kind,  he  comes  to  many  where 
he  can  be  proud  of  his  people.  Clean  and 
tidy  in  their  appearance  and  in  their  houses, 
they  come  out  to  meet  him,  the  heads  of 
households  coming  forward  to  do  the  hon- 
ours of  the  occasion.  A  school-house,  and 
children  proudly  holding  slates  under  their 
arms,  give  the  status  of  the  village.  The 
Munsiff  ^  and  Karnam  ^  come  over  to  say 
a  respectful  salaam  to  the  Dora,  because  the 
conduct  of  the  Christians  has  taught  them 
to  honour  this  Dora  and  his  religion. 
Crowds  come  to  hear  him  preach,  and  Su- 
dras  among  them,  sitting  attentively  on  one 
side,  saying,  "  It  is  a  good  religion.  Let 
us  listen.'* 

There  is  an  atmosphere  of  spiritual  life 
and  energy  abroad  in  such  a  village.  And 
the  question  comes :  "  Is  there  any  power 
on  earth,  save  Christianity,  that  could  thus 
uplift  a  community  within  the  short  space 
of  one  generation  ?  " 

*  Head  man  of  the  village.    '  Second  head  man. 


XV 
TOPSYTURVYDOM 

From  ■■  The  Gist  of  Japan  ",  by  the  Rev.  R.  B. 
Peery,  A.M.,  Ph.D.,  of  the  Lutheran  Mission, 
Saga,  Japan. 

One  of  the  most  striking  facts  in  connec- 
tion with  Japanese  customs  is  that  many  of 
them  are  exactly  opposed  to  those  which 
prevail  in  the  West.  Occidentals  who  have 
been  accustomed  to  doing  certain  things  one 
way  all  their  lives  are  shocked  to  find  them 
done  in  precisely  the  opposite  way.  This 
is  true  to  such  an  extent  that  Japan  has 
been  called  "  Topsyturvydom."  But  to 
those  who  are  acquainted  with  the  customs 
of  both  East  and  West  it  is  a  question  which 
one  is  topsyturvy.  After  one  has  become 
used  to  them,  many  of  the  customs  appear 
just  as  sensible  and  convenient  as  those  of 
Europe  and  America.  Why  these  differ- 
ences we  do  not  know,  but  perhaps  the  fact 
that  the  Japanese  are  antipodal  to  us  makes 
it  fitting  that  their  customs  should  be  anti- 
podal also. 

An  Occidental  has  an  idea  that  something 
143 


144  '^^^  ^^^^  ^^  Jap^n 

inherent  in  things  necessitates  that  a  book 
begin  at  the  left  side  and  the  idea  of  begin- 
ning at  the  other  side  appears  ridiculous  to 
him.  But  in  reality  it  is  every  whit  as  con- 
venient, fitting  and  sensible  to  begin  at  one 
side  as  the  other,  and  all  Japanese  books 
begin  at  what  the  people  of  the  West  call 
the  end,  i.  e.,  at  the  right  side  and  read 
toward  the  left.  While  English  books  are 
printed  across  the  page  in  lines  from  left 
to  right,  Japanese  books  are  printed  from 
right  to  left  in  columns.  An  Occidental 
generally  turns  the  leaves  of  his  book  from 
the  top  with  his  right  hand;  an  Oriental 
turns  them  from  the  bottom  with  his  left 
hand.  In  Western  libraries  the  books  are 
placed  on  their  ends  in  rows ;  in  Japan  they 
are  laid  flat  down  on  their  sides  and  piled  up 
in  columns. 

If  we  see  several  good  dictionaries  or 
encyclopedias  in  a  man's  study  we  are  apt 
to  infer  that  he  is  a  man  of  studious  habits ; 
the  Japanese  of  olden  times  inferred  just 
the  opposite.  According  to  their  idea  a 
scholar  would  have  the  meaning  and  use  of 
all  words  in  his  head  and  not  need  to  refer 
to  a  dictionary.  A  Japanese  friend  who 
came  into  my  study  one  day  expressed  great 
surprise  at  seeing  several  large  dictionaries 
there.    "  You  have  certainly  had  better  edu- 


Topsyturvydom  145 

cational  advantages  than  I,"  he  said,  ''  and 
yet  I  can  get  along  with  a  very  small  dic- 
tionary, why  cannot  you  ?  "  Upon  inquiry 
I  learned  that  many  Japanese  keep  their  dic- 
tionaries concealed,  because  they  do  not 
want  it  said  that  they  must  refer  to  them 
often. 

The  manner  of  addressing  letters  in 
Japan  is  exactly  opposed  to  ours.  We 
write : 

Mr.  Frank  Jones,* 
no  Gay  Street, 
Knoxville, 

Tennessee. 

A  Japanese  would  write  it: 
Tennessee, 

Knoxville, 

Gay  Street,  no, 

Jones,  Frank,  Mr. 

The  latter  is  certainly  the  most  sensible 
method,  because  what  the  postmaster  needs 
to  see  is  not  the  name  of  the  man  to  whom 
the  letter  is  addressed,  but  the  place  to 
which  it  is  to  go. 

*  In  reading  this  selection  before  an  audience, 
it  will  add  greatly  to  the  interest  to  use  a  black- 
board and  to  substitute  the  name  and  address  of 
some  well-known  person  present. 


146  The  Gist  of  Japan 

In  matters  of  dress  there  are  some  cus- 
toms quite  opposed  to  our  own.  The  Amer- 
ican lady  goes  to  a  ball  with  her  neck  and 
arms  bare,  but  would  be  shocked  at  the 
very  mention  of  having  her  feet  exposed. 
The  Japanese  lady  covers  her  neck  and 
arms,  but  does  not  at  all  mind  being  seen 
with  bare  feet  and  ankles.  Many  of  the 
ladies  do  not  wear  foot-gear  at  all  in  the 
house,  but  they  could  hardly  be  induced  to 
expose  their  arms  and  necks  as  Western 
women  do. 

A  Western  woman  is  anxious  to  have  a 
thin,  narrow  waist,  her  Japanese  sister 
wants  a  broad  one.  In  the  West,  curly  hair 
is  prized;  in  the  East  it  is  considered  an 
abomination.  If  a  little  Japanese  girl  is  told 
that  her  hair  is  curly,  she  considers  it  a  dis- 
grace and  cries  bitterly.  The  most  striking 
difference  in  dress,  however,  is  in  regard  to 
mourning.  Whereas  in  the  West  it  is  al- 
ways black,  in  Japan  it  is  always  white. 

Another  remarkable  contrast  is  found  in 
the  relation  of  the  sexes.  In  America  the 
woman  is  given  the  precedence  in  every- 
thing. Her  husband  and  all  other  men  who 
come  within  her  influence,  must  serve  and 
honour  her.  In  Japan  the  man  takes  pre- 
cedence everywhere,  and  the  woman  must 
serve  him.    At  meals  the  woman  must  first 


Topsyturvydom  147 

wait  on  her  husband  and  then  she  herself 
may  eat.  When  guests  come,  the  husband 
is  the  chief  entertainer,  and  the  wife  takes  a 
back  seat.  When  walking  together  on  the 
street,  she  does  not  walk  by  his  side,  but 
comes  along  behind.  The  men  do  not  in- 
tend to  mistreat  the  women;  they  simply 
take  what  they  regard  their  due  as  head  of 
the  family. 

Among  the  customs  most  peculiar  in  the 
eyes  of  the  Westerner  and  most  squarely  op- 
posed to  their  own,  are  those  relating  to 
marriage.  In  Japan  the  young  people  have 
nothing  whatever  to  do  with  the  match- 
making, except  to  give  their  consent  to  the 
arrangements  of  their  parents,  and  fre- 
quently even  this  is  not  asked.  Thus  it 
often  happens  that  the  man  has  never  seen 
his  bride  until  the  wedding-day.  The  young 
people,  however,  seldom  object,  and  mar- 
riages made  in  this  way  seem  to  work  well. 

In  the  West  a  wedding  often  takes  place 
in  a  church,  and  as  a  rule  a  minister  offici- 
ates; in  Japan  the  temples  are  studiously 
avoided  at  such  times,  and  they  are  very 
careful  to  exclude  priests.  The  wedding  is 
to  be  joyous,  and  priests  are  known  best  as 
officiators  at  funerals,  so  that  ideas  of  sad- 
ness and  misfortune  are  associated  with 
them.     In  the  West,  if  the  wedding  does 


148  The  Gist  of  Japan 

not  take  place  in  church,  it  will  probably  be 
held  in  the  house  of  the  bride ;  in  the  East 
it  is  always  held  in  the  house  of  the  groom. 
Here  the  bride's  household  prepares  the 
feast;  there  the  groom's  prepares  it.  Here 
the  groom  must  come  to  get  his  bride ;  there 
she  must  go  to  him.  Whether  she  lives  in 
the  same  city  or  a  distant  province,  she 
must  go  to  the  groom,  not  he  to  her. 

Customs  in  regard  to  houses  are  quite 
different.  In  America  the  front  rooms  of 
houses  are  most  desirable;  in  Japan  back 
rooms  are  preferred.  Here  the  parlors,  sit- 
ting-rooms, etc.,  are  in  front  and  the  kitchen 
and  store-rooms  are  relegated  to  the  rear; 
there  the  kitchen  and  store-rooms  are  in 
front,  and  the  parlor  and  sitting-rooms  be- 
hind. Here  the  front  yards  are  kept  clean, 
but  the  back-yards  are  proverbially  dirty; 
there  all  sorts  of  dirt  and  trash  may  be  lying 
around  in  the  front  yard,  while  the  back 
yard  is  a  perfect  little  garden  of  beauty. 

Japanese  carpenters  saw  by  pulling  the 
saw  toward  them  instead  of  pushing  it  from 
them ;  the  planes  act  in  the  same  way ;  and 
screws  are  put  in  by  turning  them  to  the 
left  instead  of  to  the  right. 

Even  in  the  nursery  we  find  customs  di- 
rectly antipodal.    The  American  nurse  takes 


Topsyturvydom  149 

a  child  up  in  her  arms ;  the  Japanese  nurse 
carries  it  on  her  back. 

These  are  some  of  the  customs  squarely 
opposed  to  our  own.  The  first  thought  on 
learning  of  them  will  probably  be,  how 
ridiculous  and  inconvenient !  And  yet  they 
are  just  as  convenient  and  sensible  as  our 
own,  and  some  of  them  much  more  so. 
There  is  nothing  in  the  nature  of  things 
why  most  customs  should  be  either  this 
way  or  that. 


XVI 
A  MODERN  ELIJAH 

From    "  The    Transformation    of    Hawaii ",    by 
Belle  U.  Brain. 

The  most  famous  of  all  Hawaiian  con- 
verts was  the  high  chieftess,  Kapiolani,  the 
descendant  of  a  long  line  of  kings,  and  ruler 
in  her  own  right  of  a  large  district  in  south- 
ern Hawaii.  Notwithstanding  her  royal 
lineage  and  exalted  rank,  she  had  been  an 
ignorant,  superstitious  savage.  She  was 
addicted  to  the  use  of  liquor,  and,  according 
to  Hawaiian  custom,  had  several  husbands. 

But  when  the  Gospel  message  touched 
her  heart,  she  at  once  set  about  reforming 
her  life.  She  gave  up  her  intemperate 
habits  and  dismissed  all  her  husbands  ex- 
cept Naihe,  the  powerful  national  orator 
who  promised  to  assist  her  in  promoting  the 
new  religion.  So  ladylike  in  deportment 
and  so  loving  in  disposition  did  she  become 
that  she  won  the  respect  and  admiration  of 
natives  and  foreigners  aHke. 

It  was,  however,  one  great  act  of  Kapio- 
lani's  life  that  made  her  famous  above  all 
other  converts  of  her  race — she  defied  the 
ISO 


A  Modern  Elijah  151 

fire-gods  of  Kilauea,  and  broke  their  des- 
potic power.  It  was  a  brave  and  courage- 
ous deed  that  won  for  her  a  glowing  tribute 
from  Thomas  Carlyle,  and  placed  her  name 
forever  in  the  list  of  the  world's  great 
heroines. 

Kilauea,  the  famous  volcano  of  Hawaii, 
where  this  event  took  place,  is  the  largest 
active  crater  in  existence.  It  lies  4,400  feet 
above  the  sea,  in  a  level  plain  on  the  east- 
ern slope  of  the  great  snow-capped  peak, 
Mauna  Loa,  and  is  a  vast,  sunken  pit  about 
eight  miles  in  circumference.  Within  the 
crater  is  a  lake  of  molten  lava  in  which  the 
fires  never  die  out,  appropriately  called 
Halemaumau,  the  House  of  Everlasting 
Burning. 

The  crater  wall  is  a  steep  precipice  down 
which  it  is  possible  to  descend  by  means  of 
a  rocky,  zigzag  pathway.  Though  the  vol- 
cano is  incessantly  active,  and  the  relent- 
less fires  of  Halemaumau  never  cease,  it  is 
perfectly  safe,  except  in  times  of  great  erup- 
tions, to  cross  the  bed  of  the  crater  almost 
to  the  edge  of  the  burning  lake  and  watcH 
the  play  of  its  eternal  fires.  Some  faint 
conception  of  the  awful  grandeur  of  the 
sight  may  be  gained  from  the  words  of 
Isabella  Bird  Bishop  who  thus  describes  her 
emotions  on  first  beholding  it : 


152    The  Transformation  of  Hawaii 

"  I  think  we  all  screamed,  I  know  we  all 
wept,  but  we  were  all  speechless,  for  a 
new  glory  and  a  new  terror  had  been  added 
to  the  earth.  It  is  the  most  unutterable  of 
all  wonderful  things.  The  words  of  com- 
mon speech  are  quite  useless.  It  is  unim- 
aginable, indescribable,  a  sight  to  remember 
forever,  a  sight  which  at  once  took  posses- 
sion of  every  faculty  of  sense  and  soul,  re- 
moving one  altogether  out  of  the  range  of 
ordinary  life. 

"  Here  was  the  real  '  bottomless  pit ' — the 
*  fire  which  is  not  quenched  ' — the  *  place  of 
hell ' — the  '  lake  which  burneth  with  fire 
and  brimstone  ' — the  '  everlasting  burnings  ' 
— the  fiery  sea  whose  waves  are  never 
weary.  *  *  *  I  feel  as  if  the  terrors  of 
Kilauea  would  haunt  me  all  my  life." 

In  the  minds  of  the  superstitious  island- 
ers, the  volcano  was  peopled  with  innumer- 
able gods  and  goddesses,  supreme  among 
them  being  Pele,  the  goddess  of  fire  who 
was  supposed  to  dwell  in  Halemaumau, 
from  whence  she  sent  forth  thunders  and 
lightnings,  earthquakes  and  volcanic  erup- 
tions. The  Hawaiians  stood  in  the  greatest 
awe  of  the  cruel  goddess  and  much  of  their 
worship  was  directed  to  propitiate  her.  On 
a  high  rock  near  the  crater  wall,  a  temple 
was  erected  for  her  priests  and  priestesses, 


A  Modern  Elijah  153 

and  votive  offerings  of  a  costly  character 
were  continually  presented  to  her. 

Long  after  idolatry  had  been  overthrown 
in  the  islands,  many  of  the  Hawaiians  still 
believed  in  Pele,  and  dared  not  violate  her 
tabus.  In  December,  1824,  Kapiolani  re- 
solved to  free  her  people  from  the  thraldom 
of  this  superstition  by  defying  the  fire  god- 
dess in  her  own  domains. 

Her  plan  was  to  visit  the  missionaries  at 
Hilo  where  a  mission  station  had  recently 
been  opened,  taking  the  track  across  the 
mountain  on  which  the  crater  lies — a  diffi- 
cult and  dangerous  journey  of  one  hundred 
miles  across  rough  lava  beds.  Since  there 
were  at  that  timic  neither  horses  nor  mules 
in  Hawaii,  she  was  obliged  to  travel  the  en- 
tire distance  on  foot. 

Her  people  were  dismayed  and  gathered 
from  far  and  near  to  plead  with  her  to  give 
up  so  dangerous  an  exploit.  Even  Naihe 
sought  to  dissuade  her.  But  strong  in  faith, 
believing  that  her  heavenly  Father  would 
protect  her,  she  said  to  them :  "  The  tabus 
are  abolished.  There  is  but  one  Great  God ; 
He  will  keep  me  from  all  harm."  When 
her  people  found  that  she  could  not  be 
induced  to  abandon  the  project,  eighty  of 
them  decided  to  accompany  her. 

As  they  journeyed  toward  the  volcano, 


154    The  Transformation  of  Hawaii 

Kapiolani  was  stopped  again  and  again,  by 
men  and  women  along  the  way,  who  im- 
plored her  to  return  home  and  not  risk 
Pele's  anger.  With  heroic  faith  she  pushed 
bravely  on,  simply  answering:  "  If  I  am  de- 
stroyed you  may  all  believe  in  Pele ;  but  if 
I  am  not,  then  you  must  all  turn  to  the  true 
God." 

Near  the  crater  they  were  met  by  a 
priestess  of  Pele  who  claimed  authority 
from  the  goddess  herself.  She  warned 
Kapiolani  not  to  enter  the  sacred  precincts 
of  the  volcano  with  a  spirit  of  unbelief  and 
opposition  in  her  heart,  and  threatened  her 
with  the  penalty  of  death  if  she  persisted  in 
doing  so.  Nothing  daunted  by  her  terrible 
predictions,  Kapiolani  sat  down  beside  the 
poor  deluded  creature  and,  taking  out  her 
Testament,  taught  her  of  the  one  true  God 
in  the  heavens. 

Growing  in  great  profusion  along  the 
mountain  path  were  the  flame-colored  ohelo 
berries  sacred  to  the  fire  goddess  on  account 
of  their  brilliant  hue.  These  are  very  re- 
freshing to  thirsty  travellers,  but  no  Ha- 
waiian dared  eat  them  without  first  climb- 
ing to  the  edge  of  the  crater  and  throwing 
in  a  branch  of  them,  saying  as  he  did  so: 
"  Pele,  here  are  your  ohelos.  I  offer  some 
to  you;   some  I  also  eat."     Determined  to 


A  Modern  Elijah  155 

break  every  tabu,  Kapiolani  ate  freely  of 
these  berries  without  making  the  customary 
offering  to  the  goddess,  but  her  companions 
dared  not  do  so. 

Arriving  at  the  crater,  she  led  the  way 
down  the  steep  rocky  path,  across  the  hot 
lava  beds,  the  ground  trembling  under  her 
feet,  and  steam  issuing  from  every  crevice. 
On  she  went  until  she  reached  the  edge  of 
Halemaumau.  Then,  knowing  that  nothing 
could  be  more  disrespectful  and  displeasing 
to  the  goddess,  she  gathered  a  handful  of 
stones,  and  deliberately  hurled  them,  one 
after  another,  into  the  great  lake  of  fire. 

Only  those  who  have  watched  the  awful 
fires  of  Kilauea,  and  ''  know  with  what 
awful  terrors  pagan  deities  are  clothed  in 
the  common  mind,  and  with  what  tenacity 
these  superstitions  continue  to  hold  even 
professed  converts,  can  imagine  what  holy 
courage  and  faith  must  have  been  begotten 
in  this  Hawaiian  heroine." 

Turning  to  her  terrified  people  she  said: 
"  Jehovah  is  my  God.  He  kindled  these 
fires,  I  fear  not  Pele.  Should  I  perish  by 
her  anger,  then  you  may  all  fear  her  power ; 
but  if  Jehovah  save  me  in  breaking  her 
tabus,  then  you  must  fear  and  serve  Jeho- 
vah. The  gods  of  Hawaii  are  vain.  Great 
is  the  goodness  of  Jehovah  in  sending  mis- 


156    The  Transformation  of  Hawaii 

sionaries  to  turn  us  from  these  vanities  to 
the  Hving  God." 

At  her  direction,  the  whole  company  then 
knelt,  prayer  was  offered,  and  the  crater 
rang  with  the  music  of  a  Christian  hymn. 
Above  the  roaring  and  crackling  of  the 
flames  could  it  be  heard,  echoing  and  re- 
echoing to  the  praise  of  Jehovah.  Thus 
were  the  fire  palaces  of  Pele  consecrated 
as  a  temple  of  the  living  God. 

Returning  as  they  came,  across  the  bed 
of  the  crater,  we  may  imagine  the  terror  of 
Kapiolani's  companions.  No  doubt  they 
fully  expected  the  thin  crust  to  give  way 
beneath  their  feet,  precipitating  them  into 
the  fires  below ;  or  to  be  overtaken  by  show- 
ers of  lava  and  stone,  hurled  upon  them 
from  the  rear.  But  the  cruel  fire-goddess 
failed  to  avenge  herself;  they  reached  the 
edge  of  the  crater  in  safety  and  continued 
their  peaceful  journey  to  Hilo  unmolested. 

It  was  a  brave  and  heroic  deed  that  has 
been  likened  to  that  of  Elijah  on  Mt.  Car- 
mel,  challenging  the  priests  of  Baal,  and  to 
Boniface  in  Germany  felling  the  sacred  oak 
of  Thor.  But  Kapiolani  displayed  a  faith 
more  heroic,  and  a  courage  more  indomit- 
able, than  either  of  these.  They  had  never 
been  under  the  power  of  the  gods  they  de- 
stroyed,  while  less  than   four  years  pre- 


A  Modern  Elijah  157 

vious,  she  had  not  even  heard  of  Jehovah 
in  whom  she  now  trusted  to  save  her  when 
defying  the  gods  she  had  worshipped  since 
childhood.  Then  too,  Elijah  stood  on  the 
peaceful  slopes  of  Mt.  Carmel,  and  Boni- 
face on  the  quiet  plain  of  Upper  Hesse, 
while  she  stood  in  the  presence  of  real 
danger,  before  those  awful  fires  that  strike 
terror  to  the  stoutest  hearts. 

Arriving  in  Hilo,  with  feet  swollen  from 
the  long  hard  journey,  and  mind  and  body 
utterly  weary  from  her  exciting  experience, 
Kapiolani  refused  to  rest  until  she  had  se- 
cured lodgings  for  her  entire  company,  and 
gathered  them  together  for  evening  wor- 
ship. During  her  visit  she  rendered  valu- 
able assistance  to  the  missionaries,  her  be- 
nign influence  being  felt  long  after  her  re- 
turn to  her  home. 

Her  beautiful  and  fruitful  hfe  was  ended 
in  May,  1841,  when  she  passed  away  fully 
trusting  in  the  Saviour  she  had  served  so 
long  and  faithfully.  She  was  deeply 
mourned,  not  only  by  her  own  people,  but 
by  the  missionaries  who  realized  that  they 
had  lost  a  valued  helper  and  a  faithful 
friend. 


XVII 

HOW  A  UNITED  STATES  CITIZEN 
WAS  RESCUED  FROM  MARQUE- 
SAS CANNIBALS 

From    "The    Transformation    of    Hawaii'**    by 
Belle  M.  Brain. 

The  Rev.  James  Kekela,  native  Ha- 
waiian missionary  to  the  Marquesas  Is- 
lands, was  in  many  respects  a  remarkable 
man.  So  deep  was  his  piety,  and  so  wide- 
spread his  influence,  that,  in  1852,  while 
serving  as  pastor  of  a  church  on  Oahu,^  he 
was  asked  to  accompany  a  band  of  pioneer 
missionaries  to  Micronesia  and  assist  them 
in  starting  a  new  mission  there. 

In  1853,  shortly  after  his  return  to  Oahu, 
a  call  for  missionaries  came  to  the  Hawaiian 
Christians  from  the  Marquesas  Islands,  an 
exceedingly  beautiful  archipelago  lying 
directly  east  of  Peru,  peopled  by  a  race 
of  savages  noted  for  being  the  most  fero- 
cious and  blood-thirsty  cannibals  found 
anywhere  in  the  Pacific.  Many  attempts 
had  been  made  by  English  and  American 

*One  of  the  Hawaiian  islands. 
158 


Rescued  from  Cannibals        159 

missionaries,  and  native  Christians  from  the 
Society  Islands,  to  live  among  them  and 
give  them  the  Gospel,  but  each  little  com- 
pany of  workers  had  been  glad  to  escape 
with  their  lives. 

Nevertheless,  when  a  Marquesas  chief  ar- 
rived at  Hawaii  pleading  for  teachers  for 
his  people,  great  enthusiasm  was  aroused. 
Though  the  Hawaiians  knew  full  well  the 
character  of  the  Marquesans,  they  promptly 
responded  to  the  call.  Among  those  who 
volunteered  for  this  difficult  and  dangerous 
work  was  Kekela.  Resigning  his  pleasant 
pastorate  on  Oahu,  he  and  his  faithful  wife 
Naomi  returned  with  the  Marquesas  chief 
to  his  home. 

For  many  years  they  were  stationed  at  the 
village  of  Paumau,  in  a  beautiful  valley  on 
the  island  of  Hivaoa,  where  they  laboured 
with  rare  devotion  for  the  uplifting  of  the 
cruel  and  degraded  savages  around  them. 
Near  their  home  was  an  immense  heiau,  or 
sacred  place,  where  the  most  revolting  rites 
and  ceremonies  took  place.  It  consisted  of 
a  series  of  walled  terraces  built  of  great 
stones,  surmounted  by  a  paved  platform  on 
which  cannibal  feasts  and  heathen  dances 
were  held. 

At  this  terrible  place  there  occurred,  in 
1864,  an  event  that  revealed  not  only  the 


i6o    The  Transformation  of  Hawaii 

character  of  the  Marquesas  people,  but  also 
the  indomitable  courage  of  the  brave,  true- 
hearted  missionary  that  worked  among 
them.  At  the  risk  of  his  own  life,  he  res- 
cued Lieutenant  Whalon,  an  officer  of  the 
United  States  whale-ship  Congress  from 
an  awful  death. 

Shortly  before  this  time,  the  sailors  of  a 
Peruvian  vessel  had  stolen  a  number  of 
Marquesan  youths  from  Hivaoa,  carrying 
them  away  to  be  sold  as  slaves.  Among 
them  was  the  son  of  a  chief.  In  his  rage 
and  grief  over  the  loss  of  his  boy,  the 
father  made  a  solemn  vow  that  he  would 
kill  and  eat  the  first  white  man  caught  on 
the  island. 

Ere  long  he  had  an  opportunity  for  car- 
rying out  his  awful  threat.  The  Congress, 
being  in  need  of  supplies,  stopped  at  Hivaoa 
soon  after,  and  Lieutenant  Whalon  went 
on  shore  to  trade  for  pigs,  fowls  and  other 
produce  of  the  island.  Unsuspicious  of  the 
terrible  fate  awaiting  him,  he  allowed  him- 
self to  be  decoyed  farther  and  farther  in- 
land until  he  reached  the  woods,  out  of 
sight  of  the  vessel.  Then,  suddenly,  at  a 
given  signal,  a  fierce  crowd  of  savages 
rushed  upon  him,  stripped  him  of  his  cloth- 
ing, bound  him  hand  and  foot,  and  carried 
him  to  the  heiau  to  be  killed  and  eaten ! 


Rescued  from  Cannibals        i6i 

The  crew  of  the  Congress  would  have 
shared  the  fate  of  their  heutenant  had  it  not 
been  for  a  young  Marquesan  servant  em- 
ployed in  the  family  of  Kekela.  She  saw 
what  was  about  to  happen,  and  by  making 
signs  warned  them  of  their  danger.  Motion- 
ing them  back  to  their  ships  she  cried  out, 
''Pull  away!   Pull  away!" 

At  the  heiaiL  the  unfortunate  man  was 
surrounded  by  a  great  company  of  grin- 
ning savages.  With  elaborately  tatooed 
faces  and  hair  tied  in  two  bunches  on  the 
top  of  the  head,  they  looked  more  like  de- 
mons than  men.  Dancing  about  their  vic- 
tim in  fiendish  glee,  they  tortured  him 
frightfully.  They  pulled  his  nose  and  ears, 
bent  his  thumbs  backward  and  forward,  and 
flourished  their  long  knives  and  spears  as 
if  about  to  kill  him. 

Unfortunately  Kekela  was  absent  from 
home  at  the  time.  A  German  who  lived  on 
the  island  endeavoured  to  rescue  the  poor 
prisoner,  but  his  efforts  were  in  vain.  The 
father  of  the  abducted  boy  declared  that  the 
day  of  vengeance  had  come,  and  he  would 
now  perform  his  vow.  Besides  a  feast  on 
white  man's  flesh  was  too  delightful  a 
treat  to  be  given  up  so  easily. 

All  night  long  the  terrible  torture  con- 
tinued.    In  the  morning  Kekela  returned. 


i62    The  Transformation  of  Hawaii 

On  hearing  what  had  occurred,  he  went  at 
once  to  the  heiau  to  plead  for  Lieutenant 
Whalon's  Hfe.  At  first  the  savages  posi- 
tively refused  to  listen ;  but  by  and  by  they 
began  to  talk  about  a  ransom.  A  fine  new 
six-oared  boat  had  recently  been  sent  to 
Kekela  from  Boston ;  perhaps  here  was  an 
opportunity  to  get  possession  of  it ! 

Would  the  missionary  give  his  boat  for 
the  white  man's  life?  they  asked.  Yes; 
though  it  was  greatly  prized  and  almost  in- 
dispensable to  his  work,  the  missionary 
would  give  even  that. 

The  transaction  was  about  to  be  closed 
when  the  chief  of  a  hostile  clan  suddenly 
remembered  that  he  had  found  it  convenient 
to  make  trips  with  the  missionary  in  this 
boat;  if  it  passed  into  the  hands  of  his  en- 
emy, he  could  no  longer  have  this  privilege. 
On  second  thought,  he  positively  refused 
to  allow  it  to  be  given  up. 

After  much  discussion,  the  cannibals 
finally  agreed  to  accept  a  small  ransom — a 
gun  and  various  other  articles — and  Mr. 
Whalon,  weak  and  ill  from  his  frightful 
experience,  was  at  last  released.  Kekela 
took  him  to  his  own  home,  where  he  was 
tenderly  cared  for  by  the  good  Naomi.  As 
soon  as  he  was  able,  he  was  put  on  board 
Ihe  Congress,  which  had  anchored  far  out 


Rescued  from  Cannibals        163 

at  sea,  waiting  to  learn  the  fate  of  her  un- 
fortunate officer. 

When  Abraham  Lincoln,  who  was  at  that 
time  president  of  the  United  States,  heard 
the  story,  he  sent  Kekela,  by  the  captain  of 
the  Morning  Star,  guns,  watches,  a  medal, 
and  other  gifts  to  the  value  of  five  hundred 
dollars,  together  with  a  letter  of  congratu- 
lation, expressing  the  thanks  of  the  nation 
for  his  important  service  in  saving  the  life 
of  a  United  States  citizen. 

Kekela's  answer  to  the  president  was  very 
beautiful.     It  read  in  part  as  follows : 

"  Greetings  to  yoii,  great  and  good  Friend! 

"  My  mind  is  stirred  up  to  address  you  in 
friendship.  I  greatly  respect  you  for  hold- 
ing converse  with  such  humble  ones.  Such 
you  well  know  us  to  be. 

"  When  I  saw  one  of  your  countrymen, 
a  citizen  of  your  great  nation,  ill-treated, 
and  about  to  be  baked  and  eaten,  as  a  pig 
is  eaten,  I  ran  to  deliver  him,  full  of  pity 
and  grief  at  the  evil  deed  of  these  benighted 
people. 

"  As  to  this  friendly  deed  of  mine  in  sav- 
ing Mr.  Whalon,  its  seed  came  from  your 
great  land,  and  was  brought  by  certain  of 
your  countrymen,  who  had  received  the  love 
of  God.    It  was  planted  in  Hawaii,  and  I 


164    The  Transformation  of  Hawaii 

brought  it  to  plant  in  this  land,  and  in  these 
dark  regions,  that  they  might  receive  the 
root  of  all  that  is  good  and  true.     *     *     * 

"  How  shall  I  repay  your  great  kindness 
to  me?  Thus  David  asked  of  Jehovah,  and 
thus  I  ask  of  you,  the  President  of  the 
United  States.  This  is  my  only  payment, — 
that  which  I  have  received  of  the  Lord, — 
aloha}  May  the  love  of  the  Lord  Jesus 
abound  with  you  until  the  end  of  this  terri- 
ble war  in  your  land." 

The  great-hearted  president  never  re- 
ceived this  touching  letter.  It  reached 
Washington  shortly  after  his  tragic  death, 
when  the  whole  land  was  mourning  her 
irreparable  loss. 

The  world  little  realizes  the  debt  she  owes 
to  foreign  missionaries.  Darwin,  the  great 
naturalist  says :  "  Dishonesty,  intemperance 
and  licentiousness  have  been  greatly  re- 
duced by  the  introduction  of  Christianity. 
In  a  voyager  to  forget  these  things  is  base 
ingratitude,  for  should  he  chance  to  be  at 
the  -point  of  shipwreck  on  some  unknown 
coast,  he  will  devoutly  pray  that  the  lesson 
of  the  missionary  may  have  extended  thus 
far." 

^  Love. 


XVIII 

HOW  CYRUS  HAMLIN  CAME  OUT 
OF  A  MISSIONARY  BOX 

From  "My  Life  and  Times",  by  Rev.  Cyrus 
Hamlin,  D.D.,  missionary  of  the  American 
Board  in  Turkey. 

Our  family  was  a  reading  family.  On 
winter  evenings  one  of  us  always  read 
aloud,  while  some  of  the  family  industries, 
as  sewing  and  knitting,  were  going  on. 
There  is  a  bright  glow  of  social  happiness 
over  those  evenings,  as  they  recur  to  me  in 
memory.  To  my  brother  and  myself  the 
family  training  of  reading  and  discussion 
was  of  more  value  than  the  common  school. 

Two  or  three  of  Scott's  novels  were  read, 
Quentin  Durward  the  first ;  but  our  reading 
was  mainly  historical  and  biographical. 
The  Bible  was  read  before  retiring  to  rest, 
and  each  child  had  a  system  of  reading  the 
Bible  through,  one  chapter  every  day  and 
five  on  Sunday. 

Our  Sundays  were  carefully  guarded 
from  all  unnecessary  labor,  and  the  reading 
was  in  harmony  with  the  sacredness  of  the 
i6s 


1 66  My  Life  and  Times 

day.  The  Panoplist,  and  afterward  its  suc- 
cessor, The  Missionary  Herald,  was  read 
aloud,  and  especially  every  item  of  mission- 
ary news,  for  some  of  our  neighbors  did  not 
believe  in  missions.  The  missions  were  then 
so  few  that  a  close  acquaintance  with  them 
was  easily  cultivated,  and  we  believed  in 
them  with  all  our  might. 

About  the  year  1820  or  1821  a  proposal 
was  made  to  the  church  to  respond  to  the 
call  for  aid  to  educate  heathen  boys  in 
Christian  schools  in  India.  Twelve  dollars 
a  year  would  educate  a  boy.  A  penny  con- 
tribution box  was  offered  to  the  Sunday 
audience  by  the  door,  as  they  passed  in  and 
out.  The  cent  was  the  limit  in  one  direc- 
tion against  half  cents,  but  in  the  other  there 
was  no  limit.  The  object  was  to  raise  a 
dollar  a  month. 

It  was  proposed  and  voted  to  name  the 
boy  Lincoln  Ripley,  after  our  sainted  and 
excellent  pastor.  All  the  boys  and  girls 
were  invited  to  try  for  a  cent  a  week.  There 
was  little  money  in  the  country,  and  the 
trade  was  largely  barter.  But  there  was  a 
potash  factory  in  the  place,  and  ashes  com- 
manded a  good  price.  The  boys  could  cul- 
tivate a  potato  patch.  Good  potatoes  were 
ten  cents  a  bushel.  Girls  could  braid  straw 
for  hats  and  bonnets,  or  knit  woolen  under- 


A  Missionary  Box  167 

wear.  By  hook  and  by  crook  the  box  col- 
lected its  dollar  a  month,  adults  putting  in 
the  larger  contributions.  Much  interest  was 
excited  in  the  work,  and  we  thought  we 
were  doing  something  great.  It  was  more 
difficult  then  for  a  boy  to  earn  a  cent  than  it 
is  now  to  earn  a  nickel. 

We  had  four  great  days  in  the  year — first 
of  all,  Thanksgiving  Day.  That  has  been 
written  into  the  ground,  but  I  love  to  recall 
its  household  joy  and  evening  sports. 

Then  the  Fourth  of  July,  "the  glorious 
Fourth."  The  reading  of  the  Declaration 
of  Independence  was  arranged  beforehand, 
and  everybody  knew  who  was  to  have  the 
honour.  That  occasion  always  fired  our 
souls.  We  wondered  that  George  III.  had 
been  allowed  to  live.  We  have  lost  the 
Fourth  of  July.  It  is  still  worth  keeping 
with  more  patriotism  and  less  powder. 

Election  day  was  a  holiday,  and  we  al- 
ways had  election  cake  and  some  boyish 
sports. 

But  the  annual  muster  was  the  great  day. 
Then  a  regiment  turned  out,  and  this  was 
all  "  the  pomp  and  circumstance  of  war  " 
our  eyes  were  privileged  to  see.  Every- 
body went  to  it.  When  there  was  a  sham 
fight  with  the  Indians  in  war  paint  and 
feathers,  it  was  to  us  intensely  exciting. 


1 68  My  Life  and  Times 

I  remember  well  one  morning  when — I 
suppose  I  was  about  ten  or  eleven  years  old 
— I  was  to  start  off  alone,  my  brother  being 
ill;  and  as  I  was  delayed  by  chores,  the 
, boys  of  the  neighbourhood  had  all  gone; 
but  I  didn't  care. 

When  I  had  got  myself  in  order,  my  dear 
mother  gave  me  seven  cents  spending 
money,  for  gingerbread,  buns,  etc.  A  cent 
then  was  a  more  puissant  coin  than  it  is 
now  in  such  purchases.  In  giving  it  to  me 
she  said  to  me,  "  Perhaps,  Cyrus,  you  will 
put  a  cent  or  two  into  the  contribution  box 
at  Mrs.  Farrar's."  ^ 

As  I  trudged  along  I  began  to  question. 
Shall  I  drop  in  one  cent  or  two?  I  wish 
mother  hadn't  said  one  or  two.  I  finally 
decided  on  two  and  felt  satisfied.  Five 
cents  would  furnish  all  I  could  eat,  and 
more  too ;  but  after  a  time  conscience  began 
to  torment  me :  "  Five  for  yourself  and  two 
for  the  heathen  !  Five  for  gingerbread, 
and  two  for  souls !  "  So  I  said  four  for 
gingerbread  and  three  for  souls.  I  couldn't 
take  a  firm  stand  there  very  long,  and  I  said 
three  for  gingerbread  and  four  for  the  souls 

^  Mrs.  Farrar  was  the  handsomest  woman  in 
town,  and  it  may  be  the  contribution  box  profited 
by  that  fact.  Week  days  she  kept  it  where  every- 
one saw  it. 


A  Missionary  Box  169 

of  the  heathen.  I  would  have  drawn  the 
line  there  but  for  my  foolish  pride.  The 
boys  would  find  out  that  I  had  only  three 
cents!  But  I  was  at  Mrs.  Farrar*s  open 
door,  and  there  was  the  contribution  box, 
and  I  had  the  seven  cents  in  my  hand.  I 
said  "  Hang  it  all !  I'll  dump  them  all  in 
and  have  no  more  bother  about  it."  So  I 
did  and  went  away  contented. 

I  played  shy  of  the  refreshment  stands; 
and  by  three  or  four  o'clock  I  had  sated 
myself  with  military  glory  and  made  for 
home.  I  had  been  on  my  feet  from  early 
dawn,  with  absolutely  nothing  after  my 
early  breakfast.  I  was  just  as  tired  as  a  lit- 
tle boy  could  be  who  had  never  fasted  that 
way  before. 

I  burst  into  the  house  and  cried  out, 
"  Mother,  I'm  as  hungry  as  a  bear !  I 
haven't  had  a  mouthful  to  eat  to-day." 

"  Why,  Cyrus,  have  you  lost  the  money 
I  gave  you  ?  " 

"  No,  mother ;  but  you  didn't  give  it  to 
me  right.  If  you  had  given  me  eight  cents, 
or  six  cents,  I  would  have  divided  it  half 
and  half.  But  you  gave  me  seven.  I 
couldn't  divide  it,  and  so  I  dropped  it  all 
into  the  box  together." 

"  You  poor  boy !  "  she  said,  smiling  in 
tears.    And  soon  I  had  a  bowl  of  bread  and 


\Jo  My  Life  and  Times 

milk  such  as  I  Had  never  eaten,  and  no 
monarch  ever  ate.  What  was  the  meaning 
of  mother's  tears?  I  think  it  was  the 
thought,  "  This,  my  little  boy,  my  young- 
est, can  deny  himself  for  the  sake  of  Jesus." 

Years  afterwards,  when  I  told  my  dear 
mother  of  my  decision  to  give  my  life  to 
missionary  work,  she  broke  down  and  wept 
as  I  had  never  seen  her  before.  But  her 
emotion  was  transient.  She  recovered  her- 
self and  said  with  a  tremulous  voice,  "  Cy- 
rus, I  have  always  expected  it  and  I  have 
not  a  word  to  say,  although  I  would  have 
been  so  happy  if  I  could  have  had  my 
youngest  son  with  me." 

^  If  you  don't  want  your  children  to  go 
into  missionary  work,  don't  go  fooling 
around  with  missionary  boxes.  I  have 
often  thought,  in  looking  back  over  my  boy- 
hood that  out  of  that  one  box  came  six  mis- 
sionaries, who  have  done  long  and  good 
work.  One  of  them  is  Dr.  Jewett  who 
saved  the  Telugu  Mission  when  the  Bap- 
tist Board  thought  of  giving  it  up.  When 
we  were  boys  we  used  to  attend  the  same 
church  and  look  at  each  other  through  the 

*This  closing  paragraph  is  added  from  an  ad- 
dress delivered  by  Dr.  ttamlin,  before  the  Inter- 
denominational Missionary  Union  at  Clifton 
Springs. 


A  Missionary  Box  171 

loop-holes  in  the  high  pews.  I  have  always 
felt  as  if  he  came  out  of  that  missionary 
box.  I  am  sure  I  did  \  but  I  didn't  know  it 
at  the  time. 


XIX 
THE  KOREAN  PONY 

From  "  Korean  Sketches ",  by  Rev.  James  S. 
Gale,  B.A.,  of  the  American  Presbyterian  Mis- 
sion, Wonsan,  Korea. 

Among  the  creatures  that  have  crossed 
my  path,  the  one  that  has  had  the  most  in- 
fluence on  my  personal  character  is  the 
Korean  pony.  It  would  be  impossible  to 
recount  the  varied  experiences  through 
which  he  has  led  me.  Instead  of  lifting 
my  hand  and  pointing  to  some  noted  pro- 
fessor or  eminent  divine,  as  the  master  spirit 
of  my  life,  I  stand  a  safe  distance  off, 
point  to  the  Korean  pony,  and  say,  *'  He 
has  brought  more  out  of  me  than  all  of  the 
others  combined."  In  his  company  I  have 
been  surprised  at  the  amount  of  concen- 
trated evil  I  have  found  in  my  heart ;  again, 
as  he  has  carried  me  safely  along  the  diz- 
ziest edge,  I  could  have  turned  angel  and 
taken  him  upon  my  back. 

My  usual  pony  has  been,  not  one  of  your 
well-groomed  steeds  from  the  palace  sta- 
bles, but  a  long-haired,  hide-bound  one,  for 
which  your  whole  heart  goes  out  in  pity. 
172 


The  Korean  Pony  173 

"Weak  creature,"  you  say,  "how  easy  it 
would  be  for  him  to  expire."  But  after 
a  little  experience  of  his  company  you 
change  your  mind;  for  you  find  his  heels 
are  charged  with  the  vitality  of  forked 
lightning,  and  that  upon  slight  provocation 
he  could  bite  through  six  inch  armour-plate. 
Experience  has  taught  me  to  treat  him  care- 
fully, as  you  would  an  old  fowling-piece 
loaded  to  kill,  and  in  danger  of  going  off  at 
any  moment. 

Twice  each  year,  in  the  breeding  districts, 
a  certain  number  of  ponies  are  lassoed,  and 
sent  to  the  palace.  There  they  pass  their 
palmy  days.  When  their  hair  grows  long 
and  they  take  on  a  sheep-like  look,  they  are 
turned  out  through  the  back  gate  and  be- 
come pack-ponies,  carrying  goods  along  the 
four  main  roads  of  Korea.  They  keep  this 
up  until  they  develop  ringbone,  spavin,  raw- 
back,  windgalls  and  heaves.  Then  they  are 
bought  by  a  Korean  living  near  the  "  New 
Gate,"  and  for  the  remainder  of  their  mor- 
tal existence  are  used  specially  to  carry 
foreigners.  The  fact  that  the  animal  is 
dangerously  ill,  and  the  risk  so  much  the 
greater,  accounts  for  the  double  charge 
made  to  all  foreigners  by  the  man  at  the 
"New  Gate." 

The  Korean  pony  figures  in  literary  and 


174  Korean  Sketches 

scientific  ways  as  well.  He  is  the  animal  of 
the  twenty-fifth  constellation,  and  appears 
specially  as  the  symbolical  creature  of  the 
seventh  Korean  hour  (ii  A.  M.  to  i  P.  M.). 
This  doubtless  refers  to  the  fact  that  he 
eats  his  chook  at  that  time,  though  1 1  to  2 
would  have  been  a  more  correct  division. 
We  read  also  that  his  compass  point  is 
south.  Probably  the  inventor  of  the  Horary 
Table  was  on  his  way  north  at  the  time, 
and  finding  that  his  pony  naturally  gravi- 
tated the  other  way,  marked  it  south.  His 
poetical  name  is  tone  hang  (honest  sheep). 
While  the  noun  here  is  well  chosen,  the  ad- 
jective is  purely  fictitious,  as  we  say,  "  hon- 
est injun." 

In  size,  when  alongside  a  western  horse, 
lie  looks  like  a  ten-year-old  boy  accompany- 
ing his  grandfather  or  like  an  ordinary 
Japanese  walking  out  with  Li  Hung  Chang. 

His  gait  is  a  peculiar  pitter-patter,  and 
rides  very  nicely  until  he  reaches  the  raw- 
backed,  spavin  age,  when  he  stumbles  every 
few  paces,  calling  forth  remarks  from  the 
foreigner.  The  so-called  Chinese  ponies  are 
rough,  awkwarci  creatures.  A  pack  on  one 
of  them  heaves  up  and  down  like  an  old- 
fashioned  walking-beam;  while  a  Korean 
pony,  in  good  condition,  glides  along  like  a 
palace  Pullman. 


The  Korean  Pony  175 

Their  sure-footedness  is  a  marvel.  If 
you  have  been  fortunate  enough  to  have 
really  secured  a  good  pony,  then  give  him 
his  way  over  all  dangers  of  ice  and  preci- 
pice that  you  may  chance  to  pass.  Sit  per- 
fectly cool  on  your  pack,  for  the  danger  is 
less  in  trusting  in  him  than  to  your  own 
feet.  How  my  heart  has  risen  to  the  occa- 
sion, and  taken  up  its  quarters  in  my  mouth, 
as  I  have  felt  him  glide  along  an  eight-inch 
path,  overlooking  a  chasm  with  twelve  feet 
of  green  cold  water  below.  But  never  a 
failure,  never  once  a  slip.  At  such  times, 
had  I  been  in  search  of  a  joss  to  crack  my 
head  to,  I  should  have  enshrined  my  Korean 
pony. 

And  yet,  in  spite  of  these  excellences,  my 
opening  remarks  are  true,  for  in  heart  and 
soul  he  is  a  perfect  fiend.  Obstinacy  is 
one  of  his  commonest  characteristics.  He 
will  have  his  own  way  as  surely  as  any 
Korean  coolie  will  have  his.  When  the  no- 
tion takes  him,  his  neck  is  of  brass,  and  his 
ideas  fixed  as  the  King's  ell. 

His  diet  is  chook  and  chopped  millet 
straw.  Chook  is  boiled  beans  and  rice  chaff, 
and  is  fed  to  the  pony  in  a  trough  of  water. 
The  beans  are  very  few,  the  water  very 
deep.  The  long  lips  and  nose  of  the  Korean 
pony  is  an  evolution  of  nature  in  order  to 


176  Korean  Sketches 

capture  that  bean  in  the  bottom  of  a  trough 
of  water:  he  has  been  after  it  for  genera- 
tions. Another  result  is,  he  can  breathe 
through  his  eyes  while  his  nose  is  a  foot 
deep  in  water  hunting  beans. 

The  water  is  always  coloured.  This  leaves 
it  uncertain  as  to  the  number  of  beans  put  in. 
On  one  of  my  journeys  I  had  a  groom 
whose  disposition  seemed  to  be  to  get  into 
disputes  and  difficulties  along  the  way.  The 
pony  I  rode  was  a  long-nosed,  dejected 
creature  that  required  three  hours  to  feed. 
On  one  occasion  I  went  out  to  hurry  it  up, 
and  found  it  eye-deep  in  the  trough,  appar- 
ently having  an  extra  good  time.  The  inn- 
keeper happening  to  pass  by,  saw  the 
twinkle  in  the  pony's  eye,  and  concluded 
that  the  groom  had  "  squeezed  "  his  beans. 
Immediately  a  most  interesting  drama  was 
enacted,  passing  rapidly  through  the  vari- 
ous acts  of  a  tragedy. 

"  To  perdition,  you  and  your  beans," 
cried  the  groom,  meanwhile  currying  his 
pony. 

With  that,  in  a  burst  of  tragic  frenzy, 
the  innkeeper,  seizing  the  brimming  trough 
of  chook,  poised  it  in  the  air  and  let  fly 
at  the  groom.  With  all  the  centrifugal 
force  of  a  projectile,  the  trough  grazed  the 
pony's  back,  and  $hot  by  the  groom;  the 


The  Korean  Pony  177 

water  taking  the  centripetal  route,  showered 
down  over  the  head  and  shoulders  of  the 
innkeeper  himself,  the  beans  gliding  gently 
down  his  neck.  People  speak  of  a  horse- 
laugh, but  a  pony's  smile  is  something  that 
in  watery  richness  of  expression  surpasses 
everything.  That  dejected  looking  pony 
smiled,  and  we  resumed  our  journey. 

They  never  allow  the  pony  to  drink  cold 
water,  "  It  is  sure  death,"  they  say ;  neither 
do  they  allow  him  to  lie  down  at  night,  but 
keep  him  strung  up  to  a  pole  overhead  by 
ropes,  so  that  the  creature  is  perfectly  help- 
less, and  all  the  roosters  of  the  village  warm 
their  feet  on  his  back  and  crow  the  place 
into  a  perfect  pandemonium. 

By  way  of  poetic  justice,  I  love  to  see 
the  pony  shod — see  him  pinioned  tooth 
and  nail,  bound  head,  feet  and  tail  in  one 
hard  knot,  lying  on  his  back  under  the 
spreading  chestnut  tree,  with  the  village 
smithy  putting  tacks  into  him  that  bring 
tears  to  his  eyes.  But  seasons  like  this  are 
all  too  short  to  square  up  with  him  for  the 
sins  of  his  everyday  existence. 

To  conclude  by  way  of  illustration:  I 
was  on  a  journey  through  the  South,  when 
my  pony  took  sick,  and  not  being  able  to 
find  one  for  hire,  I  asked  one  of  the  mayor 
of  the  city.     He  sent  me  a  perfect  whirl- 


1 78  Korean  Sketches 

wind!  This  was  one  of  a  courier  service, 
which  necessitated  changing  horses  every 
five  miles.  In  the  fourteen  or  fifteen  ani- 
mals that  I  enjoyed  for  the  next  three  days, 
I  had  an  excellent  demonstration  of  the 
merits  and  defects  of  the  Korean  pony.  As 
mentioned,  the  first  was  a  great  success, 
the  next  was  also  in  good  condition.  On 
mounting,  however,  I  found  he  had  a  pecu- 
liar gait.  A  limp  that  defied  all  my  efforts 
to  locate  seemed  in  fact  to  possess  his  en- 
tire being;  a  jerking  that  left  one's  inmost 
soul  in  shreds.  Glad  was  I  to  hand  him 
over  at  the  next  post-house.  Pony  number 
three  carried  me  out  of  the  yard  brilliantly. 
The  road  skirted  the  bank  of  a  river.  A 
magnificent  view,  thought  I,  and  a  pleasant 
pony  to  ride;  when  suddenly  he  stopped, 
reversed  all  his  ideas,  and  began  backing  at 
a  dangerous  pace  directly  for  the  edge. 

I  managed  to  get  off  just  in  time  to  save 
myself,  and  then,  thinking  to  teach  him  a 
lesson,  attempted  to  assist  him  over  the  side. 
But  no !  he  skillfully  grazed  the  edge  at  an 
angle  sufficient  to  have  dumped  anything 
from  his  back,  and  righted  himself  again 
as  neatly  as  though  he  had  done  it  a  thou- 
sand times.  Evidently  it  was  a  scheme  on 
his  part  to  take  my  life.  I  decided  to  walk 
till  the  landscape  was  a  little  less  pictur- 


The  Korean  Pony  179 

esque.  When  we  left  the  river,  and 
gained  the  open  fields,  I  decided  to  try  him 
again.  But  it  was  not  long  till  the  old  sen- 
sations took  him,  and  he  was  once  more 
backing  up  at  terrific  speed.  As  there  was 
no  immediate  danger,  I  thought  to  let  him 
back,  which  he  did  until  he  had  run  me  into 
a  bristling  shrub,  that  lifted  my  hat  off, 
combed  me  up  generally,  and  marked  my 
face.  I  gave  him  up  and  footed  it  for  the 
remainder  of  the  distance. 

Then  came  three  indifferent  animals  that 
just  managed  to  make  their  five  miles.  After 
the  next  post-house  keeper  had  professed 
to  have  gotten  us  an  excellent  pony  we 
moved  on  again.  When  the  creature  was 
far  enough  away  from  the  stable  to  protect 
his  master  from  any  assault  on  our  part, 
he  lay  down  peacefully  in  the  middle  of  the 
road.  There  he  remained  until  lifted  bodily 
by  tail  and  ears,  and  then  he  refused  to 
stand  squarely  on  the  ground,  my  native 
assistant  and  the  two  pony  boys  straining 
themselves  to  the  utmost  to  hold  him  erect. 

The  last  one  that  I  felt  particularly  in- 
censed against,  was  a  ragged  looking  beast 
that  was  troubled  with  a  weakness  in  its 
fore  quarters.  Without  the  slightest  prov- 
ocation he  was  all  the  time  going  down  on 
his  nose.    If  his  strength  could  have  been 


i8o  Korean  Sketches 

equally  divided  fore  and  aft,  he  might  have 
made  a  passable  pony;  but  as  it  was,  no 
forelegs  at  all  would  have  been  the  only 
honest  turnout.  The  creature  hobbled 
along,  kept  me  in  a  state  of  constant  sus- 
pense, played  on  my  hopes  and  fears  most 
cruelly,  and  at  last,  in  an  utter  collapse, 
pitched  me  clear  over  his  head,  to  the  total 
destruction  of  my  personal  appearance. 


XX 

THE  KOREAN  BOY 

From  "  Korean  Sketches  ",  by  the  Rev.  James  S. 
Gale,    B.A. 

The  boy^  may  be  anything  from  fifteen 
to  fifty-five  years  of  age.  He  may  be  mar- 
ried or  unmarried.  He  may  even  be  male 
or  female.  He  is  the  ever-present  shadow, 
as  visible  in  cloudy  weather  as  in  sunshine. 
He  occupies  the  central  place  in  the  exist- 
ence and  history  of  all  Western  life  in  the 
Far  East.  As  well  expect  a  state  to  stand 
without  a  capital,  or  a  temple  to  flourish 
without  a  god  as  to  find  a  foreigner  and  no 
boy.  The  boy  is  in  fact  the  moving  prin- 
ciple of  his  Hfe. 

Nothing  is  done  without  the  sanction  of 
the  boy,  and  nothing  that  the  boy  vetoes 
can  ever  come  to  pass.  Like  every  other 
attending  spirit,  if  you  give  the  boy  oflfense 
he  leaves  at  once,  and  the  crack  of  doom 
settles  down  over  the  head  of  his  unlucky 
victim.    Usually  he  comes  back  on  increased 

*The   head-servant   in  the  Far  East  is  called 
"the  boy". 

i8i 


1 82  Korean  Sketches 

pay,  and  with  less  mercy  than  ever  in  his 
soul,  and  life  moves  on. 

The  Western  wife  is  the  one  who  reads 
deepest  into  the  mysteries  of  the  boy.  He 
reveals  himself  to  her  because  her  demands 
give  scope  and  variety  for  his  attainments. 
My  wife  was  once  involved  in  the  prepara- 
tion of  a  dinner  to  be  given  to  the  distin- 
guished Western  population  of  the  city  of 
Seoul,  in  the  days  when  the  whole  company 
numbered  less  than  the  Knights  of  the 
Round  Table. 

All  the  courses  were  safely  under  way  and 
the  kitchen  was  spread  with  the  choicest 
dishes  those  early  days  permitted.  Canned 
vegetables,  too,  not  so  common  there  as  in 
America,  were  called  into  requisition. 

"  Open  this  can  carefully,  boy,"  said  my 
wife,  '*  and  then  heat  the  peas  on  the  stove." 

*'  Heat  the  peas  and  then  open  the  can," 
says  the  boy  to  himself,  by  way  of  touching 
off  the  order. 

My  wife  withdrew  to  the  dining-room 
in  the  satisfaction  of  being  at  last  ready 
for  the  guests.  An  Oriental  bungalow  is 
pretty;  the  brown  woodwork  and  rafters, 
with  light  paper  between,  aflFord  a  pleasing 
combination  when  set  with  flowers  and  nap- 
kins and  lighted  tapers.  Bang!  went  the 
kitchen,   as  though  struck  by  a  torpedo. 


The  Korean  Boy  183 

There  was  a  skirmish,  and  lo!  dense  dark- 
ness enshrouded  the  whole  cooking  para- 
phernaHa.  When  the  steam  and  particles 
of  exploded  peas  had  sufficiently  settled  to 
admit  of  entrance,  the  top-knot  of  the  boy 
was  discovered  issuing  from  behind  the 
stove,  while  these  words  were  heard, 
"  Choson  boy  no  savez." 

There  were  canned  peas  in  every  course 
that  evening,  to  the  confusion  of  my  poor 
wife,  but  the  story  of  their  presence  was 
accepted  by  the  guests  as  more  than  com- 
pensation. The  boy  was  burned  by  the  ex- 
ploding can,  and  to  this  day  cannot  under- 
stand why  it  blew  up,  unless  the  devils  were 
in  it. 

So  the  boy  takes  matters  into  his  own 
hands.  "  I  know,"  is  his  favourite  motto. 
He  walks  by  faith  in  himself,  and  not  by 
the  sight  of  any  mortal  demonstration.  He 
has  unbounded  confidence  in  his  power 
to  pilot  a  way  through  culinary  complica- 
tions. My  wife  had  a  kettle  of  catsup  al- 
most at  a  finish,  the  boy  was  plucking  a 
chicken  in  readiness  for  dinner. 

"What  is  the  red  sauce  for,  madam?" 
asked  the  boy. 

"  To  be  used  with  meat,"  said  my  wife ; 
**  for  example,  chicken." 

"  Oh,"  said  the  boy,  "  I  know." 


1S4  Korean  Sketches 

My  wife  returned  to  the  kitchen  a  half 
hour  later,  and  there  was  the  chicken,  sub- 
merged in  the  pot  of  catsup,  languidly  boil- 
ing, while  the  boy  sat  and  expatiated  to 
his  dirty-faced  satellites  on  the  art  of  West- 
ern cooking. 

The  boy  is  full  of  resource;  a  situation 
that  will  baffle  him  is  hard  to  imagine.  The 
commissioner  of  customs  made  us  an  after- 
noon call,  and  we  prevailed  on  him  to  re- 
main for  dinner.  When  my  wife  informed 
the  boy  that  we  would  have  him  for  our 
guest,  he  said,  "  We  have  nothing  in  the 
world  for  the  great  man ;  not  bread  enough, 
and  no  roast ;  we  shall  all  die." 

My  wife  told  him  she  would  take  no 
bread,  and  that  canned  meat  would  suffice 
for  "  potluck ;  "  and  as  the  commissioner 
was  a  considerate  gentleman,  there  really 
was  no  occasion  for  any  one  to  expire. 

*'  We  shall  all  die,"  said  he,  "  and  go  to 
perdition  " — meaning  that  the  honour  of 
our  house  would  fall. 

Dinner  was  served,  the  boy  came  sweep- 
ing in  with  the  soup  as  though  there  were 
an  abundant  supply.  Later  we  were  await- 
ing the  modest  remnants  of  bread  and 
canned  meat,  when  the  door  swung  on  its 
hinges,  and  the  boy  with  an  expression  of 
oily  radiance  peculiar  to  the   East,  burst 


The  Korean  Boy  185 

into  the  room  with  a  roast  of  beef  fit  for 
Confucius!  There  was  also  bread  enough 
and  to  spare.  My  wife  sat  asphyxiated. 
What  could  she  do  but  accept  a  choice  piece 
for  herself,  and  express  the  hope  that  the 
commissioner  would  be  helped  a  second 
time! 

It  was  an  eminent  success  as  a  dinner,  but 
the  question  of  where  the  roast  was  pro- 
cured in  a  city  destitute  of  Christian  beef, 
and  bread,  where  there  are  no  bakers, 
was  bearing  hard  upon  her;  yet  it  was  not 
curiosity,  but  fear  that  filled  her  soul. 
When  we  withdrew  for  coffee,  she  asked  in 
breathless  suspense: 

''  Kamyongi,  where  did  you  get  the  roast 
and  the  bread  ?  " 

"  Just  sent  to  the  commissioner's  and 
said,  *  The  great  man  will  dine  here,  bring 
along  anything  you  have  cooked.'  " 

With  a  look  of  mortification  that  was 
pitiful,  my  wife  confessed  then  and  there 
to  the  commissioner.  He  was  an  old  hand 
in  the  East,  and  the  light  of  past  days 
twinkled  in  his  eye  as  he  enjoyed  to  the  full 
the  joke  of  that  most  excellent  dinner. 

It  is  only  fair  to  say  that  the  average  boy 
is  trustworthy.  He  takes  his  ''  squeeze," 
which  is  as  legitimate  an  operation  in  the 
Far  East  as  the  drawing  of  a  salary  at 


1 86  Korean  Sketches 

home.  He  expects  to  share  in  the  good 
fortune  of  his  master  without  any  thought 
of  being  dishonest.  There  are,  of  course, 
questionable  boys  as  there  are  questionable 
people  in  every  walk  of  life,  and  the  follow- 
ing case  is  cited  to  show  the  methods  they 
adopt  in  deceiving  their  employer. 

The  most  afflicted  person  I  have  ever 
known  in  this  respect  was  a  Scotchman 
who  came  East  on  a  matter  of  business. 
He  hired  a  boy  to  do  his  work,  cook  and 
care  for  him.  This  boy  was  to  come  every 
night,  render  an  account  of  the  day's  ex- 
penses, and  receive  orders  for  the  day  fol- 
lowing. Nothing  palls  on  an  impatient  for- 
eigner more  than  these  visits  of  the  boy 
with  his  book  of  Chinese  characters.  So 
the  Scotchman  would  say,  "  Oh  never  mind, 
I'm  tired  to-night,  come  to-morrow,"  Sev- 
eral days  would  pass  by,  and  then  would 
come  an  evening  of  dire  tussle  in  a  vain 
effort  to  straighten  out  accounts. 

"  But,"  says  the  Scotchman,  "  I  never  ate 
forty  eggs  a  day." 

"  Oh,  yes !  makee  blead  puddin',  must 
have  plenty  egg,"  says  the  boy. 

The  Scotchman  was  silenced,  though  not 
convinced.  This  matter  of  accounts  grew 
more  and  more  aggravated.     There  was 


The  Korean  Boy  187 

heaped  up  against  him  a  tremendous  list 
of  provisions — quantities  of  beef,  mutton 
chop,  ham,  fruit,  flour  and  eggs.  Small 
portions  of  these  to  be  sure  he  had  eaten, 
but  the  meagre  remnants  that  appeared  for 
breakfast,  tiffin,  and  dinner,  were  entirely 
out  of  proportion  to  the  extravagant  lists 
of  the  evening.  Resolved  to  investigate, 
the  Scotchman  dropped  in  about  eleven 
o^clock  from  the  office,  to  see  what  the  sup- 
ply looked  like  uncooked.  He  called  the 
boy  and  asked  what  he  had  bought. 

"  Me  buy  good  loast,  one  chicken,  plenty 
thing." 

"  Bring  them  in  to  me,"  he  said. 

The  boy  disappeared,  the  Scotchman 
waited  long  and  patiently.  "  Boy !  "  he 
shouted,  but  no  answer.  Determined  to 
make  an  end  once  for  all,  he  went  into 
the  kitchen  and  out  to  the  back  yard.  There 
was  the  boy  plucking  one  of  his  favorite 
chickens  in  a  desperate  effort  to  make  the 
supply  tally  with  his  account!  He  had 
meanwhile  borrowed  a  piece  of  meat  from 
a  neighbour,  and  piled  a  few  scraps  on  a 
plate  to  which  he  called  attention. 

The  angry  Scot  caught  the  plate,  and 
let  fly,  scraps,  roast  and  all,  straight  at  the 
boy's  head.    The  concussion  sent  him  spin- 


1 88  Korean  Sketches 

ning  through  the  back  gate,  where  he  dis- 
appeared into  a  kind  of  nirvana,  carrying 
the  Scotchman's  anathemas  with  him. 

The  boy  is  the  guardian  spirit  of  the  pale- 
face, notwithstanding  the  fact  that  he  keeps 
him  in  torment.  Yield  him  your  confidence 
and  his  devotion  and  executive  skill  will 
more  than  repay  you.  His  unwearied  feet 
will  cover  long  miles  of  distance  in  your 
behalf;  his  tongue  will  tell  the  wondering 
listeners  your  praises — how  great  you  are, 
how  wise,  how  generous,  how  rich,  how 
glorious  a  master  to  serve.  We  have  heard 
it  from  others,  and  sometimes  ourselves 
have  said,   "  Bless  the  boy !  " 

He  will  fight  a  whole  town  that  calls  you 
"  barbarian  " — as  my  own  Yongchuni  did 
once  when  we  entered  a  miserable  raft  of 
a  place  after  nightfall.  The  people,  through 
the  mouthpiece  of  a  lanky  mountaineer,  said 
they  had  no  room  to  stable  savages.  Quick 
as  lightning  Yongchuni  smacked  him  on 
the  cheek  for  his  insolence.  It  was  the 
touch  of  a  button  that  piled  all  the  loose 
population  onto  the  prey  like  so  many  woolly 
dogs.  Poor  Yongchuni,  he  was  the  prey, 
buried  out  of  sight,  overwhelmed  by  vio- 
lence, and  all  on  my  account.  I  was  com- 
pelled to  turn  in  and  help  him.  How  we 
survived  is  still  a  mystery.    As  we  moved 


The  Korean  Boy  189 

ignominiously  out  of  the  place,  I  lectured 
him  on  keeping  his  temper. 

"  But,  master,  they  insulted  you,  how 
could  I  ?  "  he  asked. 

"  But  we  must  not  fight,"  I  repHed. 

This  reproof  brought  the  tears,  where 
the  violence  of  the  mob  had  but  whetted 
him  into  anger.  I  told  him  I  prized  his 
faithfulness,  pummelled  as  he  had  been. 
After  thinking  it  over  carefully,  and  weigh- 
ing the  motives,  I  drew  from  it  a  profitable 
lesson  for  myself,  and  concluded  that  I 
would  rather  have  fought  like  that  on  be- 
half of  another,  than  have  kept  my  temper 
for  years. 


XXI  ' 

THE  KOREAN  NEW  YEAR. 

I^'rom  "  Korean  Sketches  ",  by  the  Rev.  James  S. 
Gale,  B.A. 

In  their  division  of  the  year,  Koreans, 
Hke  the  Chinese,  prefer  to  follow  the  moon 
rather  than  the  sun.  The  most  noted  moon 
of  the  year  is  the  crescent  that  shines  on 
the  first  night  of  the  first  month. 

Every  native  in  the  land  feels  that  witfi 
its  coming  old  things  have  passed  away 
and  that  all  things  have  become  new.  He 
pays  his  debts,  puts  on  a  new  suit  of  clothes, 
bows  his  congratulations  to  the  old  men  of 
the  village,  and  has  the  younger  men  bow 
to  him ;  and  yet  after  it  all,  there  is  a  lack 
and  an  aching  void.  He  acts  not  unlike 
Job  when  he  said :  "  Though  I  wash  me 
with  snow  water  and  make  my  hands  never 
so  clean,  yet  wilt  thou  plunge  me  in  the 
ditch  and  mine  own  clothes  shall  abhor 
me."  Something  dogs  his  footsteps  of 
which  he  tries  very  hard  to  be  rid ;  he  calls 
in  sorcerers,  and  fortune  men,  and  during 
prolonged  seances  seeks  their  advice. 
190 


The  Korean  New  Year        191 

A  cook  whom  we  left  at  Korea,  had  many 
times  fallen  a  victim  to  a  quarrelsome  dispo- 
sition, though  he  fought  hard  against  it. 
We  told  him  of  the  Christian  way  of  com- 
bating such  a  foe,  but  it  did  not  appeal  to 
him.  He  said  Koreans  had  a  way  too,  but 
he  would  have  to  await  the  New  Year  for 
its  trial.  When  the  New  Year  came,  late 
at  night  we  found  him  in  the  courtyard  fly- 
ing a  kite  on  which  he  had  written,  "  Evil 
disposition,  impatience,  bad  words,  street 
fights,  etc."  It  was  so  dark  that  no  kite 
could  be  seen;  but  when  he  had  run  the 
string  out  to  its  full  length,  he  cut  it  and 
let  it  go,  imagining  that  so  he  had  rid  him- 
self of  his  enemies  and  could  begin  the  year 
with  new  courage. 

Another  regenerating  method  commonly 
practised  is  to  prepare  a  straw  image  which 
contains  in  its  inmost  being  a  written  state- 
ment of  one's  sins  and  shortcomings,  to- 
gether with  a  few  cash.  On  New  Year's 
night  beggars  who  play  the  part  of  scape- 
goat, come  by  asking  for  the  image.  It  is 
passed  out  to  them,  and  they  become  pos- 
sessed of  the  evil,  selling  their  peace  of  soul 
for  the  cash  within. 

Another  method  of  finding  peace,  is  by 
making  offerings  before  a  mountain  shrine. 
We  had  one  such  in  front  of  our  gate,  to 


192  Korean  Sketches 

which,  among  others,  came  an  old  woman 
to  rid  herself  of  her  sorrows  and  burdens, 
carrying  a  chicken  and  a  bowl  of  rice.  It 
was  a  live  offering,  for  she  left  the  chicken 
tied  by  its  foot  to  the  tree.  Its  peepings 
brought  our  cook  upon  the  scene.  He  cut 
the  string,  gave  the  bird  shelter,  and  when 
the  old  woman  came  by  again,  said, 
"  Mother !  here's  your  chicken."  But 
Grandma  lifted  up  her  hands  in  horror, 
refused  to  take  it,  and  warned  him  against 
what  he  would  inherit — terrors  worse  than 
he  had  dispossessed  himself  of  when  he 
flew  his  kite. 

The  Korean  is  a  marvel  for  mathemati- 
cal calculations.  His  reckoning  of  age  is 
most  peculiar.  It  is  not  based  upon  the 
revolutions  of  sun  or  moon,  but  upon  the 
number  of  New  Year's  dinners  partaken  of, 
with  an  extra  year  thrown  in,  for  what 
reason  I  have  never  been  able  to  understand. 
Thus  if  a  child  is  born  in  December,  and 
on  New  Year's  day  joins  the  family  circle 
for  refreshments,  it  is  said  to  be  two  years 
old,  though  its  actual  existence  may  number 
only  five  or  six  days. 

Though  defective  in  mathematics,  the 
Korean  has  other  compensating  excellen- 
cies. We  have  had  a  parliament  of  Re- 
ligions, at  which  we  are  glad  he  took  no 


The  Korean  New  Year        193 

part ;  but  when  we  shall  have  a  Parliament 
of  National  Amusements,  we  hope  to  have 
him  there  flying  his  Korean  kite.  At  the 
New  Year  season  the  upper  air  is  alive 
with  kites,  dancing  nimbly  in  groups  or 
moving  mysteriously  here  and  there.  His 
kite  is  small  and  square  without  wings  or 
tail,  and  its  evolutions  are  marvellous.  In 
fairly  calm  weather  a  skillful  flyer  can  com- 
mand an  arc  of  some  ninety  degrees  with 
his  kite.  By  a  turn  of  the  wrist  and  a 
sweep  of  the  hand  it  goes  straight  up  into 
mid-air,  like  a  rocket.  Another  turn,  and 
it  makes  a  somersault  like  a  tumbler  pigeon, 
repeating  it  over  and  over. 

Each  New  Year  season  there  are  contests 
in  kite  flying,  the  object  being  to  cut  the 
enemy's  string  and  let  his  kite  go.  In 
preparation  for  this,  a  string  is  twisted  of 
silk  and  coated  with  ground  glass  and 
porcelain  mixed  with  glue.  As  it  flies 
singing  off  the  reel  you  feel  toward  it  much 
as  a  bird  might  toward  a  wall  capped  with 
broken  bottles. 

These  contests  are  quite  as  exciting  as 
anything  seen  on  an  American  baseball  field. 
The  old  men  in  thickly  padded  suits  are 
seated  on  mats  at  some  point  where  the  view 
is  unobstructed,  while  ordinary  spectators 
fill  the  streets.     The  most  tried  and  skill- 


194  Korean  Sketches 

ful  man  of  the  district  has  the  kite  in  hand. 
Little  boys  in  red  jackets  and  white  panta- 
loons are  everywhere  on  tiptoe  of  expecta- 
tion for  fallen  string  or  stray  kite. 

One  tournament  in  the  capital  we  still 
remember  vividly.  Different  wards  of 
the  city  had  entered  the  lists,  and 
even  the  coolies  were  excited.  After  due 
ceremony  the  kites  rose  slowly  from  the 
chosen  centres.  They  were  far  apart  and 
seemed  as  little  in  danger  of  attacking  each 
other  as  the  extreme  ends  of  the  Dipper. 
They  drew  apart  until  sufficient  string  was 
off  the  reel,  and  then  gradually  pulled  to- 
gether until  the  distance  was  spanned.  Now 
they  were  face  to  face,  nodding  politely, 
schottisching  back  and  forth,  growing  more 
animated  till  their  motion  assumed  some- 
thing of  the  form  of  a  highland  fling.  Then 
they  swooped  at  each  other — passed  and 
repassed — shot  by  at  hot  speed — struck — 
one  kite  spun  for  a  moment;  then  dived 
underneath — the  spectators  held  their 
breath.  Now  strings  were  crossed,  and  the 
fight  began.  A  moment  later  one  kite  re- 
mained riding  triumphantly  in  the  sky, 
while  the  other,  with  tipsy  motion  floated 
off  into  the  azure  blue,  the  broken  string 
falling  over  the  roof-tops. 

A  little  lad  with  radiant  face  and  red 


The  Korean  New  Year        195 

coat  caught  the  string,  and,  in  his  haste, 
took  a  grip  of  it  and  ran  toward  home,  for- 
getful of  the  glass  filings  and  glue.  Some 
one  caught  the  other  end  and  drew  it 
through  his  hand.  At  once  he  dropped  it 
and  looked,  and  there  a  line  oozed  out  of 
his  chubby  fingers  as  red  as  his  New  Year's 
jacket.  His  features  suddenly  reversed, 
and  in  bitterness  and  woe  he  went  home  to 
tell  his  mother  of  the  sorrows  and  defeats 
of  New  Year's  day.  But  over  in  the  other 
ward  there  was  feasting  and  music,  and 
the  mothers  there  said  there  had  never  been 
such  kite-flying  since  the  founding  of  the 
dynasty. 

In  the  evening  the  Korean  closes  his 
doors  to  keep  out  Santa  Claus,  whom  he 
calls  Angwangi.  Angwangi  is  an  old  man 
who  lives  in  the  upper  air  and  collects  ma- 
terial for  New  Year's  gifts.  As  is  cus- 
tomary in  the  East,  the  Korean  leaves  his 
shoes  outside  the  door,  and  Angwangi 
comes  down  on  New  Year's  eve,  and  tries 
them  on,  leaving  a  memento  of  his  visit. 
He  is  not  the  genial  Santa  Claus  we  know, 
however,  but  a  villainous  old  fiend,  whose 
gifts  consist  of  typhus  fever,  cholera,  lep- 
rosy and  the  like. 

There  is  no  joyful  anticipation,  but  the 
most  dismal  fear  of  Angwangi.    When  a 


196  Korean  Sketches 

child  cries,  Korean  mothers  say,  "Hush, 
or  Angwangi  will  catch  you."  Yet,  as 
against  other  common  evils  of  the  Orient, 
the  natives  have  a  protection  provided.  One 
v^ay  is  to  bring  all  the  shoes  inside  and 
keep  a  light  burning  for  the  night;  but  in 
certain  cases  bringing  the  shoes  indoors 
exposes  the  inmates  to  other  misfortunes, 
so  it  has  taken  much  thoughtful  study  to 
meet  the  case  of  Angwangi.  After  baiting 
him  with  this  and  that,  and  attempting  in 
vain  to  propitiate  him,  it  was  found  that  a 
common  flour  sieve  left  at  the  door  would 
attract  his  attention  and  render  him  oblivi- 
ous to  all  the  shoes  of  the  capital,  for  he  has 
a  mania  for  counting  the  meshes  of  the 
sieve.  He  counts  and  counts,  and  before  he 
is  aware,  the  night  has  fled,  and  his  oppor- 
tunity to  scatter  New  Year's  pestilence  is 
gone.  So  a  sieve  is  always  left  beside  the 
shoe  mat  on  New  Year's  eve. 

At  the  close  of  the  New  Year's  season, 
that  is,  on  the  night  of  the  fifteenth  of  the 
first  month,  the  Korean  spreads  his  mat  on 
the  nearest  bridge  and  bows  three  times  to 
the  moon,  asking  him  for  his  light  and 
guidance  during  the  coming  year. 


XXII 

GOD  ON  THE  ROCK:  HOW  THE 
INDIANS  ARE  TAUGHT  TO 
READ  THE  BOOK 

From  "  On  the  Indian  Trail ",  by  Egerton  R. 
Young,  missionary  to  the  Cree  and  Salteaux 
Indians. 

One  of  the  most  signal  triumphs  in  giv- 
ing the  Bible  to  a  people  in  their  own  lan- 
guage is  that  of  the  translation  and  printing 
of  the  Book  in  the  syllabic  characters  in- 
vented by  the  Rev.  James  Evans,  one  of 
the  early  Methodist  missionaries  to  the  scat- 
tered tribes  of  Indians  in  what  was  then 
known  as  the  Hudson  River  Territories. 

These  people  were  fishermen  and  hunters, 
ever  on  the  go,  so  that  it  was  almost  an 
impossibility  to  teach  them  to  read  in  the 
ordinary  way.  By  using  syllabic  charac- 
ters, however,  the  Bible  was  printed  in  so 
simple  a  manner  as  to  be  easily  acquired 
by  them.  Each  character  represents  a  syl- 
lable, so  that  all  the  difficulties  of  learning 
to  spell  are  done  away  with. 

In  working  out  his  invention,  Mr.  Evans 
had  to  labor  under  many  disadvantages. 
197 


198  On  the  Indian  Trail 

Living  in  a  land  so  remote  from  civiliza- 
tion, he  had  but  Httle  material  on  which 
to  experiment  and  but  few  facilities  to  aid 
him.  From  the  fur-traders  he  begged  a 
few  sheets  of  the  lead  that  lines  the  interior 
of  tea  chests.  This  he  melted  into  suitable 
pieces,  out  of  which  he  carved  his  first  type. 
For  paper  he  was  obliged  at  first  to  use 
birch  bark.  His  ink  was  manufactured  out 
of  the  soot  from  his  chimney  and  sturgeon 
oil.  Yet  with  these  rude  appliances  he  suc- 
ceeded in  printing  portions  of  the  Scrip- 
tures and  some  hymns  in  the  language  of 
the  Crees. 

When  the  story  of  his  marvellous  inven- 
tion reached  England,  friends  came  to  his 
assistance.  From  some  of  his  types,  as 
models,  a  generous  supply  was  cast;  these 
with  a  good  hand  printing  press  and  all 
necessary  supplies  of  paper,  ink  and  other 
essentials  were  shipped  to  him  by  the  Hud- 
son Bay  Co.,  to  Norway  House.  For  years 
the  work  of  printing  portions  of  the  Word 
of  God  was  prosecuted  there  until  the  Brit- 
ish and  Foreign  Bible  Society  took  up  the 
work  and  cheerfully  furnished  all  the 
Bibles  the  people  required. 

The  missionary  ever  finds  among  all 
classes  of  pagan  people  that  the  Book  is 
always  considered  a  mysterious  and  won- 


God  on  the  Rock  199 

derful  volume.  Its  marvellous  incidents 
ever  attract.  They  never  tire  of  the  serv- 
ices where  it  has  a  prominent  place.  Ser- 
mons, even  though  hours  in  duration,  if 
full  of  its  truths  will  be  attentively  listened 
to. 

One  day  when  I  was  holding  some  ex- 
tended services,  I  said  to  the  friendly  In- 
dians around  me :  ''  Would  you  not  like 
to  read  the  book  for  yourselves  ?  '^  A  chorus 
of  hearty  affirmative  answers  was  the  quick 
response.  It  did  not  take  us  long  to  organ- 
ize our  school,  for  it  was  indeed  a  primi- 
tive affair.  I  was  fortunate  in  having  a 
goodly  number  of  syllabic  Bibles,  which,  at 
a  great  deal  of  trouble  we  had  brought 
with  us  in  our  canoe.  Not  a  person  in  the 
audience,  except  my  boatmen  knew  a  let- 
ter or  syllabic  character.  We  had  no  pri- 
mary books  considered  so  essential  in  organ- 
izing a  school  that  has  to  begin  at  first 
principles.  We  had  not  even  a  slate,  pencil, 
paper  or  blackboard.  However,  "neces- 
sity is  the  mother  of  invention,"  and  it  was 
so  here. 

Near  at  hand  was  a  huge  rock  that  tow- 
ered up  like  a  house,  one  side  of  it  being 
as  smooth  as  a  wall.  This  constituted  an 
admirable  substitute  for  a  blackboard. 
Burnt  sticks  from  the  camp-fire,  where  our 


aoo  On  the  Indian  Trail 

fish  and  bear's  meat  had  been  cooked,  were 
used  as  substitutes  for  chalk. 


ALPHABET^ 

(a)  SYLLABICS; 

v» 

A^ 

>0       <JB« 

Ap^ 

^P3     <pS 

nts 

^ts     (^t3 

fj  cha 

p    chS 

J  cha  [j  cha 

Qka 

p   ks 

^C)k5     5ka 

'?J)na 

O"  ^^ 

jpno     Q^ina 

1^^ 

P    me 

J  mo    L  mS 

V.  sa 

^    s§ 

^  so      1^  Ba 

^ya 

^  ys 

;^y5     l-,ya 

*a,  as  in  far. 

After  a  few  words  of  explanation  the 
work  of  memorizing  the  characters  began. 
A,  E,  OO,  AH.    It  was  just  like  a  lot  of 

little  children  in  a  primary  school  begin- 
ning with  A,  B,  C.    Over  and  over  again, 

*  In  reading  this  selection  before  an  audience 
it  will  add  greatly  to  the  interest  to  reproduce  this 
alphabet  on  the  blackboard  or  a  large  sheet  of 
manila  paper. 


God  on  the  Rock  aoi 

we  repeated  them  until  my  mixed  audience 
became  familiar  with  the  sounds.  Thus  we 
studied  for  hours.  At  first  the  interest  in 
the  work  was  very  great,  and  from  old  men 
of  eighty,  to  the  boys  and  girls  of  six  or 
eight,  the  best  of  attention  was  paid. 

After  a  time  the  interest  flagged  consid- 
erably, especially  among  the  older  men  to 
whom  these  characters  were  as  yet  unmean- 
ing sounds.  Some  of  them  got  up  and  lit 
their  pipes,  and  moving  around,  divided 
their  time  between  the  lesson  and  the  smok- 
ing. Of  course  I  had  to  let  them  smoke.  I 
might  have  found  it  a  difficult  matter  to 
have  stopped  them  if  I  had  been  so  foolish 
as  to  have  tried.  So  I  told  them  some 
pleasant  stories  and  we  toiled  away  at  our 
lesson.  It  was  not  many  hours  before  many 
of  my  undisciplined  pupils  had  a  fairly  good 
idea  of  the  names  of  the  characters. 

Then,  knowing  that  I  could  arouse  the 
interest  of  the  most  apathetic  among  them 
I  began  to  combine  the  characters  into 
words,  and  asked  for  their  most  earnest 
attention.  I  marked  out  some  simple  words 
such  as:  <  <  (pa-pa),  and  L  L 
(ma-ma).  Thus  I  showed  them  how  to 
combine  these  signs  into  words.  This  in- 
terested them  very  much;  but  the  climax 
came,  when,  with  the  burnt  stick  I  marked 


ao2  On  the  Indian  Trail 

L  (5  3  '  (Maneto,  their  name  for  God, 
or  the  Great  Spirit) .  Great  indeed  was  the 
excitement.  They  could  hardly  believe 
their  own  eyes,  that  before  them  was  Ma- 
neto, the  Great  Spirit.  He  whom  they  had 
heard  in  the  thunder  and  the  storm,  whose 
power  they  had  seen  in  the  lightning  flash, 
about  whom  they  had  talked  in  their  wig- 
wams, and  at  their  camp-fires — "  Ma- 
neto !  "  Here,  made  by  a  burnt  stick  on  a 
rock,  visible  to  their  eyes,  was  that  name: 
God  on  the  Rock  !  It  was  indeed  a  reve- 
lation. Something  that  filled,  and  thrilled 
them,  as  I  have  never  before  or  since  seen 
Indians  thrilled. 

For  a  time  I  could  only  keep  quiet  and 
look  on  and  rejoice.  Some  of  them  in  their 
amazement  were  doubtful  of  their  own 
senses.  They  acted  as  though  they  could 
not  believe  their  own  eyes;  so  they  ap- 
pealed to  those  nearest  to  them  and  said : 

''  Is  it  Maneto  to  you?  " 

Others  rubbed  their  eyes,  as  though  they 
feared  that  by  some  witchery  bad  medicine 
had  been  thrown  in  them,  and,  in  their  In- 

^  If  a  blackboard  is  used  as  suggested,  draw 
these  characters  on  it  without  giving  their  mean- 
ing, and  call  on  the  audience  to  translate  them 
by  referring  to  the  alphabet. 


God  on  the  Rock  203 

dian  phraseology,  they  were  "  seeing 
double." 

There  was  no  more  inattention.  Every 
pipe  went  out,  and  every  eye  followed  me, 
as  in  these  syllabics  I  wrote  on  the  rock, 
God  is  Love.  After  talking  about  this  a 
little,  I  then  wrote,  God  Loves  You.  This 
we  followed  with  other  short  sentences  full 
of  blessed  Gospel  truths.  Thus  passed  some 
hours  in  this  delightful  way,  and  before 
they  were  ended  many  of  my  pupils  had 
become  quite  familiar  with  the  formation 
of  words  out  of  these  characters. 

Then  we  opened  our  bundles  of  Bibles, 
and,  passing  them  around  as  far  as  they 
would  go,  I  had  them  all  turn  to  the  first 
verse  of  the  first  chapter  of  Genesis,  and 
we  began  the  study  of  it.  Of  course  our 
progress  at  first  was  slow.  It  could  not  be 
otherwise  under  such  circumstances.  But 
we  patiently  persevered,  and  it  was  not 
very  long  ere  they  were  able  to  read  in 
their  own  language :  ^'  Mawache  Nistum 
Kaesamaneto  Keoosetou  Kesik  Mena 
AsKEE  (In  the  beginning  God  created  the 
heaven  and  the  earth)." 

When  they  had  acquired  the  ability  to 
read  this  verse  for  themselves,  and  had 
grasped  a  little  of  its  meaning,  there  was 


204  On  the  Indian  Trail 

another  outburst  of  delight.  That  first 
verse  of  Genesis  is  very  suggestive  and  full 
of  meaning  to  any  one  who  studies  it.  It 
is  in  itself  the  first  chapter  of  God's  revela- 
tion of  Himself  to  man,  and  has  long  occu- 
pied the  attention  and  study  of  the  most 
godly  and  profound.  Here,  for  the  first 
time,  it  was  being  read  by  a  company  of 
poor  Indians,  just  emerging  from  pagan- 
ism. But  they  were  sharp  and  keen  and 
able  to  grasp  a  new  truth;  and  so  when 
the  verse  was  first  opened  before  them 
with  its  wondrous  meaning,  great  was  their 
delight  and  amazement. 

"  Now  we  know  all  about  it ! "  some  of 
them  shouted.  "  The  Kaesa-Maneto  (the 
great  God),  made  all  these  things,  the 
heaven  and  the  earth." 

Others  said: 

"  Our  fathers  talked  about  it  in  their 
wigwams,  and  wondered  how  all  these 
things  came  as  they  are;  but  they  had  to 
confess  they  were  in  darkness,  and  knew 
nothing.  But  now  we  know  it !  We  know 
it!" 

Over  and  over  again  they  read  the  verse 
until  they  had  thoroughly  committed  it  to 
memory.  And  in  after  days,  at  many  a 
camp-fire,  and  in  many  a  hunting  lodge,  it 
was  repeated  to  others  who  had  not  heard 


God  on  the  Rock  205 

it,  but  who,  on  hearing  it,  were  also  filled 
with  gratification  and  delight  at  the  answer 
it  gave  to  what  had  long  been  a  subject  of 
perplexity  and  awe. 

Day  after  day  before  that  rock  the  study 
of  other  verses  followed.  Slowly  of  course 
at  first,  but  gradually  increasing  as  they 
became  better  acquainted  with  the  sylla- 
bics.  These  eager,  interested  Indians,  ap- 
plied themselves  with  such  earnestness  to 
the  work,  that  although  they  had  never 
been  to  school  a  day  in  their  lives,  some  of 
them  in  ten  days  or  two  weeks,  were  able 
to  read  with  fluency,  the  Word  of  God  in 
their  own  language.  No  wonder  the  great 
Lord  Dufferin,  then  Governor-General  of 
the  Dominion  of  Canada,  said  to  me : 

"  The  man  who  invented  that  syllabic  al- 
phabet, was  one  of  the  great  benefactors 
of  humanity,  and  more  richly  deserved  a 
pension,  a  title,  and  a  resting  place  in  West- 
minster Abbey,  than  many  who  were 
buried  there." 

All  the  churches  carrying  on  mission 
work  in  these  vast  northern  regions  have 
availed  themselves  of  Mr.  Evans'  invention. 
Among  other  tribes  than  the  Cree,  where 
there  are  different  sounds  in  the  language, 
some  few  extra  characters  have  been  added. 
Even  in  Labrador  and  Greenland,  the  de- 


2o6  On  the  Indian  Trail 

voted  Moravian  missionaries  are  success- 
fully using  the  syllabic  characters  to  teach 
the  poor  wandering  Esquimaux  how  to 
read  the  Word  of  God  in  their  own  uncouth 
language. 


XXIII 

THE  VICTORY  OF  THE  SABBATH- 
KEEPING  INDIANS. 

From   "  On  the   Indian   Trail ",  by   Egerton   R. 
Young. 

To  the  Indians,  before  the  arrival  of  the 
missionary,  the  Sabbath  was  utterly  un- 
known. The  preaching  of  it  at  first  filled 
them  with  perplexity  and  trouble.  They 
thought  it  would  bring  them  to  absolute 
want.  They  were  very  poor,  even  though 
working  and  fishing  every  day ;  and  to  give 
up  one  day  out  of  every  seven,  and  not  fire  a 
gun  or  set  a  net — what  would  become  of 
them ! 

Faithfully  and  lovingly  the  missionaries 
set  before  them  the  commands  of  God,  add- 
ing the  promises  of  blessings  to  the  obedi- 
ent. The  Book  itself  was  diligently 
searched,  and  at  last  the  Christian  Indians 
resolved  to  take  it  for  their  guide,  and  to 
keep  the  Sabbath  Day.  At  once  the  guns 
and  bows  and  arrows  were  put  aside,  and 
the  fish-nets  were  left  hanging  in  the  breeze 
for  that  day.  No  traps  were  visited,  neither 
were  the  axes  lifted  up  against  the  trees^ 
207 


2o8  On  the  Indian  Trail 

Their  simple  meals  were  cooked  and  eaten, 
and  all  who  could  attend,  were  found  in  the 
house  of  God  three  times  each  Sabbath. 

But  now  arose  fierce  opposition  from  an 
unexpected  source.  The  great  fur-trading 
company  that  held  despotic  power  in  the 
land,  fearing  a  diminution  in  the  returns  of 
the  fur,  sneered  at  the  action  of  the  mis- 
sionaries, and  by  bribes  and  threats,  en- 
deavoured to  induce  the  Indians  to  ignore 
their  teachings  on  the  subject.  When  the 
summer  tripping  began  this  opposition  de- 
veloped into  downright  persecution.  Some 
description  of  this  "  tripping  "  in  that  great 
wild  northland  is  necessary  in  order  that 
the  position  of  the  Sabbath-keeping  In- 
dians may  be  understood. 

So  remote  from  the  seaboard  are  some 
of  the  interior  posts  of  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company  that  seven  years  or  more  elapsed 
ere  the  furs  could  reach  the  London  mar- 
ket. The  bales  of  goods  given  in  exchange 
for  them  were  first  shipped  to  York  factory 
on  the  Hudson  Bay.  Then  they  were  taken 
by  the  Indian  trippers  in  strong  boats  that 
would  hold  from  three  to  five  tons.  A 
number  of  these  boats  constituted  a  brigade. 
A  captain  of  the  whole  was  appointed  and 
a  good  state  of  discipline  maintained. 

The  first  brigade  would  take  the  bales  up 


Sabbath-Keeping  Indians        209 

the  rivers,  some  of  which  are  full  of  falls 
and  rapids  that  are  impassable  for  boats. 
Here  portages  have  to  be  made.  The  hardy 
boatmen  row  up  to  the  rapids  as  close  as 
it  is  safe,  unload  their  cargoes  and  carry 
them  on  their  backs  to  the  selected  spot 
above  the  obstruction  in  the  river.  Then 
the  boats  are  hauled  ashore  and  dragged 
overland  to  the  same  place;  here  they  are 
again  launched,  and,  with  cargoes  aboard, 
the  journey  is  resumed.  On  some  of  these 
trips  the  number  of  portages  runs  up  into 
the  scores. 

At  Norway  House, — which  for  many 
years  was  the  great  distributing  centre  for 
the  interior — this  first  brigade  would  ex- 
change its  cargo  of  goods  for  the  bales  of 
rich  furs  which  another  brigade  that  had 
come  from  the  further  interior,  perhaps 
from  Athabasca  or  the  Saskatchewan 
country,  had  brought  down  thus  far  on  their 
way  to  the  London  market.  Then  this 
second  brigade  would  return  hundreds  of 
miles  into  the  interior ;  and  meeting  another 
brigade  from  regions  still  more  remote, 
would  again  exchange  cargoes.  Thus  it 
would  go  on  until  some  of  the  bales  of 
goods  were  more  than  three  thousand  miles 
from  the  seaboard  where  they  were  landed. 

The  one  despotic  command  delivered  to 


12 1 o  On  the  Indian  Trail 

these  brigades  by  the  company  was,  "  push 
on !  "  They  argued :  The  summer  in  these 
high  latitudes  is  short;  we  must  make  the 
most  of  it.  Every  day  tells,  and  there  must 
be  no  lagging  by  the  way.  The  result  was 
that  the  men  were  worked  to  the  last  de- 
gree of  endurance.  Many  failed  at  the  oar, 
while  others  dropped  under  the  heavy  loads 
in  making  the  portages.  Fill  up  the  ranks 
quickly  and  push  on !  was  the  order.  It 
was  all  excitement,  and  rush,  and  high 
pressure,  from  the  beginning  of  the  trip- 
ping season  until  the  close.  There  was  no 
relaxation — no  Sabbath — no  rest. 

It  seemed  utter  folly  for  the  missionary 
to  come  in  where  such  a  condition  of  things 
existed  and  say  to  the  best  men  of  the  best 
brigades :  "  We  know  the  summer  is  short, 
and  it  is  essential  for  the  welfare  of  the 
company  and  your  own  wages,  that  the 
goods  should  be  taken  in,  and  the  furs 
brought  out.  But  a  Higher  Power  has 
said,  '  Remember  the  Sabbath  day  to  keep 
it  holy,'  so  when  Saturday  night  overtakes 
you,  tie  up  your  boats,  lay  aside  your  oars, 
and  rest  in  quietness  and  devotion  until 
God's  day  is  over." 

The  company  was  astounded.  To  lose 
one-seventh  of  the  short  summer  would 
never    do!       This     fanaticism     must    be 


Sabbath-Keeping  Indians        211 

stopped!  They  threatened — they  perse- 
cuted the  missionary  and  the  Indians.  But 
the  missionary  (the  Rev.  James  Evans), 
was  a  wise  and  judicious  man ;  standing  at 
his  post  he  endeavoured  to  show  the  com- 
pany that  no  harm  would  come  to  them  by 
their  employees  resting  one  day  in  seven. 
He  declared  that  a  man  could  do  more  work 
in  six  days  by  resting  the  seventh,  than  by 
working  continuously;  and  he  challenged 
them  to  the  test. 

At  first  the  statement  was  laughed  to 
scorn.  However,  as  the  missionary  and  his 
Christian  Indians  remained  true,  the  com.- 
pany  was  obliged  to  yield  so  far  as  to  send 
off  a  Sabbath-keeping  brigade,  which  they 
did  with  many  fears  and  misgivings.  To 
their  surprise,  they  did  their  work  just  as 
well,  and  returned  in  less  time,  with  the 
men  in  better  health  than  those  who  knew 
no  Sabbath.  The  logic  of  actual  success 
triumphed  and  all  opposition  ceased. 
Henceforth  no  one  was  found  rash  enough 
to  question  the  ability  of  the  Sabbath-keep- 
ing Indians  to  excel  in  work  those  who  kept 
not  the  day  of  rest. 

^  I  have  asked  the  Christian  boatmen  to 

^  This  account  given  by  the  Christian  boatmen 
is  added  from  "  The  Apostle  of  the  North,  James 
Evans  ",  by  Egerton  R.  Young. 


ail  On  the  Indian  Trail 

give  me  in  detail  an  account  of  their  doings 
in  contrast  with  the  actions  of  the  other 
brigades.   Their  story  is  somethinjg  like  this : 

"  When  going  up  the  height  of  land  to 
meet  the  brigades  from  the  north,  perhaps 
three  or  four  brigades  would  leave  the  old 
fort  at  the  same  time.  We  would  push  on, 
keeping  much  in  company,  until  we  would 
reach  the  portages,  then  we  would  separate. 
Our  Christian  men  could  hold  their  own 
with  the  best  of  these  others,  who  were 
generally  either  pagans  or  Roman  Catholics. 
Saturday  we  were  usually  ahead.  We 
camped  as  usual  Saturday  night,  sometimes 
near  together,  sometimes  as  much  as  ten 
miles  ahead  of  any  other  brigade.  As  the 
next  day  was  the  Sabbath,  we  made  every- 
thing as  comfortable  as  possible.  We  cov- 
ered our  cargoes  with  the  tarpaulins,  and 
after  supper  and  prayers,  went  to  bed. 

"  The  next  day  we  arose  as  usual,  had  a 
good  wash  and  put  on  our  Sunday  clothes 
which  we  carried  with  us.  After  breakfast, 
as  we  generally  had  some  of  our  class- 
leaders  or  lay  preachers  among  the  men,  we 
held  a  religious  service.  We  always  car- 
ried our  Bibles  and  hymn  books.  After 
dinner  we  had  a  good  sleep,  then  supper, 
then  another  religious  service.  Perhaps 
during  the  day  the  other  brigades  passed 


Sabbath-Keeping  Indians        213 

us  in  the  forenoon.  They  pushed  on  and 
on,  but  we  never  minded  that.  We  were 
remembering  the  command,  '  Keep  holy  the 
Sabbath  day.'  We  were  up  very  early  on 
Monday  morning.  The  day  of  rest  had  re- 
freshed us,  and  so,  while  the  wapun- 
uchukoos,  the  morning  star,  was  still  visible, 
we  were  making  ready  for  a  long  day's  pull 
at  the  oars. 

"  About  Wednesday  we  generally  caught 
up  to  the  other  brigades  that  had  no  Sab- 
bath. With  a  shout  the  struggle  began, 
they  to  keep  ahead,  we  to  get  ahead.  Per- 
haps we  could  not  do  it  that  night,  but  we 
did  it  the  next  day.  Then  on  we  hurried 
until  Saturday  night  came  again.  We  do 
the  same  as  we  did  last  Saturday.  The 
next  day  we  sleep  and  eat  and  worship  God. 
Perhaps  about  five  o'clock,  or  maybe  six, 
the  brigades  came  along.  They  are  now  so 
tired  they  can  hardly  get  up  a  cheer  as  they 
pass  us  and  push  on,  perhaps  five,  or  six, 
or  ten  miles  further,  when  they  camp  for 
the  night.  They  are  very  tired  and  so  sleep 
long  the  next  morning.  But  we  have  had 
our  day  of  rest,  and  so  feel  strong  again. 
So  with  the  morning  star  still  in  the  sky, 
we  are  up  and  off,  and  we  get  on  so  well 
that  we  pass  the  other  brigades  perhaps 
when  they  are  just  having  their  breakfast. 


a  14  On  the  Indian  Trail 

"  With  a  cheer  we  push  ahead.  We 
travel  some  weeks  over  many  rough  places, 
but  at  length  we  reach  the  post  we  are  trav- 
elling for  that  year.  We  find  the  brigades 
from  Athabasca,  or  Mackenzie,  or  Peace 
Rivers,  there  with  the  furs.  We  exchange 
our  loads  of  goods  for  packs  of  furs,  and 
turn  around  and  begin  the  homeward  jour- 
ney. Perhaps  we  get  down  five  or  six  days 
before  we  meet  the  other  brigades  still 
going  up. 

"  We  push  on  day  after  day,  having  as 
usual  our  quiet  Sabbath  of  rest  and  wor- 
ship, and  we  generally  arrived  home  about 
a  week  or  ten  days  before  the  other  brig- 
ades returned.  When  they  did  come  back, 
they  generally  had  some  of  their  men  about 
used  up,  and  all  of  them  were  very  tired, 
while  we  who  kept  the  Sabbath  were  soon 
ready  to  start  off  for  York  Factory  to  meet 
the  ship." 

This  was  their  uniform  testimony,  and 
has  been  for  years;  and  it  is  in  harmony 
with  the  experience  in  all  lands  where  the 
test  has  been  made.  Looked  at  from  the 
lowest  standpoint,  the  Sabbath  pays,  for 
man  as  a  creature  of  toil  can  do  more  and 
better  work  in  six  days,  by  resting  on  the 
seventh,  than  he  can  where  he  keeps  no 
Sabbath. 


XXIV 
CAMPING  IN  THE  SNOW  BANK 

From     "  The     Apostle     of     the     North,     James 
Evans ",  by  Egerton  R.  Young. 

No  full  record  of  the  long  journeys  taken 
by  James  Evans  among  the  Indians  of  the 
far  north  has  ever  been  written.  The  narra- 
tive of  his  travels  by  canoe  in  the  short 
summer  months,  and  by  dog-train  in  the 
long  cold  winter,  would  have  equalled,  in 
intense  interest,  anything  in  modern  litera- 
ture. 

To  the  Indians  he  was  the  ideal  mission- 
ary, the  matchless  dog  traveller,  the  fear- 
less canoeist.  Stoical  old  fellows  who  could 
not  be  induced  to  relate  their  personal  ex- 
periences at  the  camp-fires,  would  kindle 
up,  and  talk  by  the  hour  of  the  thrilling 
adventures,  the  narrow  escapes,  and  the 
Providential  deliverances  which  entered 
into  his  career. 

Dog-travelling  is  the  only  way  that  long 
winter  journeys  can  be  made  in  the  cold  re- 
gions of  the  north.  As  there  is  much  that 
is  fascinating  and  instructive  about  it,  we 
215 


2i6     The  Apostle  of  the  North 

will,  in  imagination,  go  with  Mr.  Evans  on 
one  of  his  heroic  trips  and  try  to  enter  into 
its  hardships  and  its  triumphs. 

The  dogs  generally  used  are  the  well- 
know  Esquimaux  or  Huskie  dogs  of  the 
country.  They  are  solid,  fine-looking  crea- 
tures, with  sharp,  pointed  ears,  long  and 
erect,  and  they  have  a  warm,  furry  coat 
which  enables  them  to  stand  the  intense 
cold  of  the  region.  Four  dogs  are  called 
a  train,  and  are  supposed  to  draw  easily 
five  or  six  hundred  pounds  weight.  The 
dog-sleds  are  like  the  toboggans  of  Quebec, 
about  ten  feet  long  and  from  sixteen  to 
eighteen  inches  wide. 

On  a  long  trip  such  as  Mr.  Evans  would 
take,  two  dog-trains  would  be  necessary, 
and  three  would  be  better.  The  Indian 
companions  must  be  of  the  best,  especially 
the  guide.  For  the  comfort  of  all,  every- 
thing essential  for  the  journey, — food, 
cooking  utensils,  bedding,  etc., — must  be 
well  packed  on  the  sleds. 

An  important  item  of  the  load  is  a  large 
supply  of  dog  shoes.  These  are  very  essen- 
tial, for  a  dog's  foot  is  very  Hable  to  injury. 
Sometimes  on  rough,  sharp  ice,  they  cut 
their  feet  so  that  they  bleed  very  much.  At 
other  times  in  the  rough  places  they  break 
off  the  nails  or  run  sharp  spikes  through 


Camping  in  the  Snow  Bank     217 

the  webbing  between  the  toes.  When  thus 
injured,  a  httle  cotton  wool,  saturated  with 
balsam  gum  is  fastened  over  the  wounded 
part,  then  the  dog  shoe  which  is  like  a  long 
mitten  without  the  thumb,  is  drawn  on  the 
foot  and  securely  fastened  with  a  piece  of 
deer  skin.  The  dogs  get  to  be  very  fond  of 
these  shoes,  and  sometimes  resort  to  queer 
expedients  to  get  them  on.  They  will  pre- 
tend to  be  very  footsore ;  and  if  the  night  is 
especially  cold  at  the  camp,  they  will  howl 
and  whine  for  them  in  a  way  that  is  pa- 
thetic, though  at  times  very  laughable.  Mr. 
Evans'  famous  train  of  hybrids,  half  dog, 
half  wolf,  would  lie  down  on  their  backs, 
and  holding  up  their  four  feet  would  howl 
for  him  to  put  on  their  shoes. 

When  the  day's  journey  is  ended  and  a 
place  possessing  the  requisites  of  a  good 
camp  has  been  found,  a  halt  is  called,  and 
all  at  once  set  to  work  to  prepare  for  the 
night.  The  dogs  are  unharnessed,  axes  are 
taken  from  the  sleds  and  a  general  assault 
made  on  the  dry  trees  near  by.  A  dozen  or 
so  are  cut  down  and  chopped  into  suitable 
lengths.  The  big  snow-shoes  make  capital 
shovels  and  with  these  the  light,  dry  snow 
is  speedily  thrown  out  from  a  space  about 
ten  feet  square,  which  is  to  be  the  abode 
of  all  the  party  for  the  night.    The  snow  is 


2i8     The  Apostle  of  the  North 

piled  up  in  banks  on  three  sides,  while  on 
the  fourth  it  is  scraped  away,  and  there  the 
logs  of  wood  are  piled  up  into  a  big  heap, 
dry  pieces  and  chips  are  placed  underneath 
them,  and  the  whole  is  speedily  ignited,  and 
soon  there  is  a  glorious  blaze. 

Kettles  are  then  filled  and  refilled  with 
snow  and  kept  on  the  fire  until  they  are  full 
of  water.  In  the  larger  one  the  meat  is 
boiled.  It  may  be  venison,  or  bear's  meat 
or  half  a  beaver.  The  fatter  it  is  the  more 
it  is  craved  by  the  missionary  as  well  as  his 
Indian  companions. 

While  the  meat  is  cooking  the  dogs  are 
fed,  their  meal  consisting  of  white  fish.  So 
severe  is  the  frost,  that  these  fish  are  as 
solid  as  stones,  and  so,  ere  they  are  fed  to 
the  dogs,  a  log  is  placed  quite  near  to  the 
fire,  and  there  two  fish  for  each  dog  are 
placed  and  thoroughly  thawed  out.  Some- 
times, in  their  nervous  anxiety  while  wait- 
ing for  their  fish,  fighting  begins  among 
them,  and  as  one  dog  after  another  joins 
in,  it  becomes  quite  a  battle.  But  it  was  al- 
ways noticed  that  dogs  that  have  toiled  in 
the  same  trains  very  seldom  quarrelled  with 
each  other.  The  battle  was  usually  between 
the  four  of  one  train,  and  the  four  of  an- 
other. When  fed,  they  go  and  dig  holes  in 
the  snow  and  there  cuddle  down  and  sleep, 


Camping  in  the  Snow  Bank     219 

shivering  through  the  bitter  cold  night  as 
best  they  can. 

The  dogs  being  thus  disposed  of,  the 
missionary  and  his  Indians  have  their  own 
supper.  Tin  plates  and  cups  are  arranged 
on  an  old  table-cloth,  and  then  with  knives 
and  forks  they  attack  the  meat  and  flat 
cakes,  if  they  have  any,  and  drink  a  great 
deal  of  strong,  well-sweetened  tea. 

Sometimes  when  the  night  was  intensely 
cold,  and  this  was  generally  the  case,  the 
meat  would  freeze  up  two  or  three  times 
during  the  meal,  and  would  have  to  be 
plunged  for  a  minute  or  two  into  the  boil- 
ing pot,  kept  ready  for  this  emergency. 
When  it  was  colder  than  forty  below  zero, 
the  ice  would  form  on  a  pint  cup  of  tea  in 
a  few  minutes  after  it  was  poured  out  of 
the  boiling  pot. 

After  supper  they  had  prayers.  The  In- 
dians were  bright  and  joyous  and  full  of 
pleasantry.  Mr.  Evans,  himself  one  of  the 
most  joyous  of  men,  would  never  take  with 
him  a  dog-traveller  or  guide,  no  matter  how 
capable,  who  was  morose  or  sullen  in  dis- 
position. Serving  the  Lord  with  gladness 
himself,  he  wanted  that  kind  of  men  around 
him.  But  after  supper,  when  the  words 
were  uttered,  "  Let  us  worship  God,"  all 
talking  and  laughing  ceased,  and  reverently, 


220      The  Apostle  of  the  North 

with  uncovered  heads,  they  all  seated  them- 
selves around  their  beloved  missionary,  who 
always  led  the  service.  A  portion  of  the 
Word  of  God  would  be  read,  and  a  familiar 
hymn  sung,  then  devoutly  kneeling,  first 
one  and  then  another  of  these  happy  con- 
verted Indians  v/ould  lead  in  prayer.  Then 
Mr.  Evans  would  offer  the  closing  petitions 
and  pronounce  the  benediction,  and  the 
precious  devotions  were  at  an  end. 

There  they  are,  out  in  the  dreary  forest 
in  that  hole,  scooped  out  in  the  snow,  with 
the  temperature  ranging  from  forty  to  sixty 
degrees  below  zero.  No  roof  have  they 
above  them  but  the  starry  heavens,  no  walls 
on  three  sides  of  them  but  the  snow  banks 
which  their  snow  shoes  have  thrown  up. 
The  fire  in  front  will  soon  go  out,  unless 
the  wolves  are  threatening  and  it  is  con- 
stantly replenished.  No  wonder,  if  con- 
scious of  their  need  of  the  watchful  care  of 
the  ever-loving  Almighty  Friend,  they  in- 
voke His  presence  and  protection. 

As  they  arise  from  their  devotions,  the 
Indian  attendants  say :  "  Now  missionary, 
if  you  will  get  ready,  we  will  make  your 
bed  and  tuck  you  in."  No  traveller  ever 
had  more  loyal  and  devoted  attendants  than 
these   loving,    vigilant,    Christian    Indians. 


Camping  in  the  Snow  Bank     221 

The  way  they  make  the  bed  for  the  mis- 
sionary is  about  as  follows: 

First  they  spread  out  a  large  buffalo  skin 
on  the  ground.     On  this  a  large  Hudson 
Bay  blanket   is   laid.     The   pillow   is   then 
placed  so  that  the  feet  will  be  toward  the 
fire.    While  the  men  have  been  making  the 
bed,  the  missionary  has  been  preparing  to 
occupy  it.    There  is  no  disrobing  before  re- 
tiring to  rest,  in  such  a  bedroom,  and  in 
such  an  atmosphere.     On  the  contrary  the 
missionary  very  gladly  puts  on  additional 
clothing.     Fur  boots   reaching   up   to  the 
body,  and  large  enough  to  be  pulled  on  over 
the  moccasins,  leggins  and  pants,  are  very 
comfortable.     A   fur  coat  with  well-lined 
hood  to  draw  over  the  large  fur  cap  is  also 
essential,  then  fur  mittens  for  the  hands, 
and  a  heavy  Scotch  plaid  wound  round  and 
round   the   body,   generally   completes   the 
outfit. 

When  the  missionary  has  lain  down  in 
the  bed  prepared  for  him,  the  Indians  throw 
over  him  a  couple  of  blankets  and  a  large 
fur  robe,  and  begin  to  tuck  him  in.  No 
loving  mother  ever  more  tenderly  tucked 
her  child  in  his  crib  than  these  experienced 
Indians  tuck  in  their  beloved  missionary. 
The  operation  is  very  satisfactory  at  first, 


222      The  Apostle  of  the  North 

as  they  begin  at  the  feet  and  work  upwarcl. 
When,  however,  the  head  is  reached,  they 
proceed  to  cover  it  up  also. 

This,  of  course,  is  very  trying  to  an  in- 
experienced white  man,  and  the  sense  of 
suffocation  is  not  entirely  removed  by  the 
assuring  words  of  the  faithful  Indians,  who 
inform  the  sufferer  that  although  he  thinks 
he  is  going  to  die,  yet  he  will  manage  to 
survive.  Nevertheless  he  finds  it  extremely 
difficult  to  breathe  packed  in,  as  he  is  under 
this  heavy  covering.  But  trying  as  it  is  to 
sleep  without  the  accustomed  number  of 
cubic  feet  of  fresh  air,  there  is  no  case  on 
record  of  any  missionary  having  been  suf- 
focated. 

The  experienced  Indians,  knowing  the 
dangers  of  the  winter  camp,  generally  warn 
the  missionary  to  keep  as  quiet  as  possible 
while  thus  almost  buried  beneath  the  heavy 
coverings.  When  questioned  as  to  the  rea- 
son for  this  solicitude,  the  answer  is :  "  You 
may  disarrange  the  clothing  while  you 
sleep,  and  so  let  in  the  cold  air;  and  then 
you  may  freeze  to  death  without  awaken- 
ing." 

That  this  serious  information  means 
something  is  evident  from  the  fact  that  one 
night  a  missionary  unconsciously  uncovered 
his  face,  doubtless  on  account  of  the  instinc- 


Camping  in  the  Snow  Bank     223 

tive  longing  for  fresh  air.  When  a  little 
later  he  fully  awoke  to  consciousness,  he 
found  himself  pulling  away  at  something 
he  at  first  thought  was  the  end  of  an  axe- 
handle,  but  which  he  soon  discovered  was 
hJs  frozen  nose ! 

Strange  as  it  may  appear,  a  fall  of  snow 
is  like  an  additional  blanket  on  a  none  too 
warm  bed  on  a  cold  wintry  night.  The 
question  has  been  asked,  who  tucks  in  the 
faithful  Indians  who  have  been  so  consider- 
ate and  thoughtful  about  their  missionary? 
Accustomed  as  they  are  to  their  primitive 
way  of  sleeping,  from  long  practice  they 
have  become  very  skillful  in  so  rolling  them- 
selves up,  each  in  a  single  blanket,  that  it 
seems  as  though  not  a  particle  of  air  is  able 
to  reach  them. 

At  times  Mr.  Evans  and  his  companions 
were  exposed  to  the  attacks  of  the  great 
northern  gray  wolves.  When  their  howling 
was  heard  additional  wood  was  put  on  the 
fire,  which  was  kept  burning  as  long  as 
they  were  troublesome.  It  is  a  fortunate 
thing  for  travellers  that  these  bloodthirsty 
brutes  are  afraid  of  fire.  Still  it  was  ever 
necessary  to  be  on  guard  when  their  mourn- 
ful, blood-curdling  bowlings  were  heard. 

Mr.  Evans  had  also  some  fierce  encount- 
ers with  blizzard  storms,  which  came  up 


224     The  Apostle  of  the  North 

suddenly,  and  are  as  apt  to  occur  at  night 
as  by  day.  Strange  to  say  it  was  possible 
to  comfortably  lie  still,  and  let  the  terrific 
storm  howl  and  rage  above  them.  The 
getting  up  in  the  morning,  however,  was 
not  always  comfortable,  even  if  the  storm 
had  spent  its  fury.  Everything  was  buried 
under  the  snow.  Even  the  dogs  had  to  be 
searched  for  and  dug  out.  Fresh  wood 
had  to  be  cut  and  a  new  fire  made.  Snow- 
shoes,  dog  harness,  sled,  etc.,  had  to  be 
searched  for  and  dug  out  from  the  drifts. 
Breakfast  was  quickly  cooked  and  eaten  by 
the  half-frozen  company,  who  found  it  hard 
work  to  keep  from  shivering.  Prayers  fol- 
lowed, then  the  dogs  were  harnessed,  the 
loads  tied  on  the  sleds,  and  the  journey  re- 
sumed. 

Thus  day  after  day,  week  after  week, 
this  marvellous  missionary  pushed  on.  At 
his  own  fireside  he  was  the  loving  and  loyal 
husband,  and  the  most  affectionate  of 
fathers.  No  one  prized  his  home  more  than 
he;  yet  so  great  was  his  love  for  his  Mas- 
ter, the  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  and  for  the 
precious  souls  for  whom  his  Saviour  died, 
that  he  was  willing  to  tear  himself  away, 
and  in  storm,  blizzard  and  hurricane,  to  go 
out  over  an  area  of  country  larger  than 


Camping  in  the  Snow  Bank     225 

many  an  empire,  cheerfully  exposing  him- 
self to  ''  perils  oft "  in  many  forms,  that  he 
might  fill  up  his  life  with  usefulness,  by 
winning  as  many  as  possible  to  the  service 
of  his  Lord. 


XXV 

A  LIFE  FOR  A  LIFE 

From     "  The     Apostle     of    the     North,     James 
Evans ",  by  Egerton  R.  Young. 

One  of  the  long  journeys  which  the 
great  missionary,  James  Evans,  took  into 
the  far  northland,  was  for  the  double 
purpose  of  winning  precious  souls  to  the 
knowledge  of  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ  and  of 
saving  the  Christian  Indians  from  the  false 
teachings  of  some  emissaries  of  the 
Church  of  Rome,  whom  he  heard  were 
pushing  up  from  the  Saskatchewan  country 
into  the  regions  which  formed  the  home  of 
his  Athabasca  flock. 

He  took  with  him  as  canoemen,  his  in- 
terpreter, Thomas  Hassel,  and  John  Oig. 
Supplies  of  food  and  ammunition  to  equip 
him  for  his  long  journey  were  provided  by 
his  friends  among  the  Indians ;  and  so,  bid- 
ding the  loved  ones  in  his  happy  home 
"  Good-bye,"  and  with  cheery  parting 
words  to  his  helpers  and  Indian  friends,  the 
long  journey  was  begun.  For  some  days 
they  pushed  on  with  the  greatest  rapidity, 
226 


A  Life  for  a  Life  227 

for  Mr.  Evans  was  anxious  to  be  first  in 
the  field,  and  those  who  were  striving  to 
invade  his  fold  had  started  a  number  of 
days  ahead,  and  over  a  better  route,  ere  he 
heard  of  their  movements. 

Awfully  sad  and  abrupt  was  the  end  of 
that  journey.  From  Oig  long  years  after, 
I  heard  the  story;  so  sad,  so  tragic,  so 
dreadful.  His  words  as  I  remember  them 
were: 

''  We  had  pushed  on  for  a  number  of 
days,  and  Mr.  Evans  was  much  pleased 
with  our  progress.  We  were  well  and 
strong,  and  there  was  plenty  of  game  for 
us  to  shoot.  We  did  not  waste  an  hour, 
but  kept  rapidly  pushing  on. 

"  We  had  risen  one  morning  very  early, 
and  after  our  breakfast  and  prayers  had 
launched  our  canoe  and  were  rapidly  hurry- 
ing away.  The  morning  mists  hung  low 
on  the  shores  of  the  great  lake-like  river  on 
which  we  were  paddling.  Thomas  Hassel 
w^as  in  the  front  of  the  canoe.  Mr.  Evans 
was  in  the  centre  and  I  was  in  the  stern. 

"  All  at  once  Hassel  whispered,  *  I  see 
ducks.  Hand  me  the  gun.'  We  generally 
kept  the  gun  in  the  stern  of  the  canoe,  point- 
ing backward  for  safety.  I  reached  back, 
and  lifting  the  gun,  turned  the  muzzle 
around  and  pulled  back  the  hammer.     I 


228     The  Apostle  of  the  North 

then  reached  it  forward  and  handed  it  to 
Mr.  Evans.  He  did  not  look  back,  but  only 
reached  his  hand  for  the  giin  as  he  was 
earnestly  looking  forward  to  try  and  see 
the  ducks  through  the  mist. 

"  Somehow  or  other,  I  can  hardly  tell 
how,  the  gun  went  off  just  as  Mr.  Evans 
took  it  from  my  hands.  As  it  was  pointed 
directly  toward  Hassel  in  front,  the  whole 
charge  went  into  his  head  just  at  the  base 
of  his  skull.  Poor  Hassel !  He  just  turned 
and  gave  one  sad  look  at  the  missionary, 
and  then  fell  over  dead.  It  was  an  awful 
time.  Mr.  Evans  was  wild  with  grief,  and 
so  was  I. 

"  We  wept  and  mourned  Uke  little  chil- 
dren. We  were  dazed  and  bewildered. 
There  we  were  in  the  wilderness,  far  away 
on  that  lonely  lake-like  river,  with  no  In- 
dians or  white  people  within  many,  many 
miles  of  us. 

"  But  we  had  to  do  something,  so  we 
went  ashore,  and  wept  again  as  we  laid  our 
dear  friend  on  the  sand.  For  a  time  we 
sat  in  silence;  then  we  tried  to  pray,  but 
could  only  sob.  But  the  Great  Spirit  heard 
our  prayer  and  we  were  quieted  and  com- 
forted, and  brought  back  to  ourselves,  so 
that  we  could  think  what  to  do.  We  could 
not  take  the  body  back  to  our  mission,  nor 


A  Life  for  a  Life  229 

forward  to  the  far-away  land  of  his  people ; 
for  they  dwelt  far  beyond  Lake  Athabasca. 
So  we  buried  our  dead  by  the  river-bank, 
and  then,  with  sad,  lonely  hearts,  started 
back  for  our  homes. 

"  O !  but  it  was  a  sad  home-coming.  Our 
eyes  were  so  dim  with  weeping  we  could 
hardly  see  the  trail.  When  at  length  we 
reached  our  village,  the  people  came  out  to 
meet  us,  wondering  why  we  had  returned 
so  soon,  and  that  there  were  only  two  of 
us,  where  there  had  been  three  when  the 
journey  began.  They  wondered  still  more 
when  they  saw  our  sad  faces,  and  observed 
that  our  tongues  at  first  refused  to  speak. 
When  at  length  the  sad  story  was  told,  their 
hearts  were  filled  with  sorrow,  and  indeed 
it  was  a  double  sorrow.  Sorrow  at  the  sad 
death  of  such  a  useful,  well-beloved  man  as 
Hassel ;  and  deeper  sorrow  as  they  saw  how 
prostrated  with  grief  was  their  beloved  mis- 
sionary, w^ho  had  been  so  unfortunate  as  to 
have  caused  the  sad  accident." 

This  is  the  substance  of  the  account  John 
Oig  gave  me  long  years  afterward.  Even 
then,  strong  Indian  though  he  was,  the  re- 
cital of  the  terrible  tragedy  deeply  affected 
him,  and  those  of  his  family  who  heard  it, 
as  he  related  it  at  my  request. 

The  effect  on  Mr.  Evans  himself  was 


230     The  Apostle  of  the  North 

terrible.  He  was  never  again  just  the  same 
man.  His  appearance  was  that  of  one  who 
had  suddenly  grown  old.  The  sprightliness 
and  vivacity  of  the  man,  which  had,  with 
divine  grace,  made  him  one  of  the  most 
joyous  and  companionable  of  men,  had 
gone  forever.  The  awful  tragedy  seemed 
ever  before  him.  His  heart  was  full  of 
sorrow,  and  his  eyes  were  often  dimmed 
with  tears. 

Sometime  after  his  return  home,  he  pre- 
pared to  surrender  himself  to  the  tribe  to 
which  the  dead  man  belonged.  They  were 
Chippewayans ;  and  were  as  a  tribe,  nearly 
all  pagans.  In  fact  the  only  company  of 
them  who  had  accepted  Christianity  was 
connected  with  the  little  mission  Mr.  Evans 
had  himself  established,  and  which  he  was 
on  the  way  to  visit  when  the  tragedy  oc- 
curred. Hassel  himself  was  a  godly  man, 
a  genuine  Christian,  full  of  anxious  zeal  for 
the  extension  of  the  cause  of  Christ  among 
his  fellow-countrymen,  but  his  family  and 
relatives  were  all  pagans,  retaining  all  their 
old  superstitions  and  cruel  customs. 

As  a  tribe  they  held  some  of  the  old 
severe  beliefs  in  reference  to  blood-feuds 
and  quarrels.  Blood  for  blood,  and  life  for 
life,  was  a  part  of  their  belief.  To  this 
people  Mr.  Evans  resolved  to  give  himself 


A  Life  for  a  Life  231 

up,  to  be  treated  by  them  in  any  way  they 
pleased.  Life's  joys  seemed  to  have  left 
him,  and  he  seemed  not  to  care  whether  he 
lived  or  died. 

Settling  up  all  his  affairs  at  home,  and 
turning  over  the  mission  and  school  with 
the  printing  house  and  all  its  work,  to  men 
whom  he  had  trained,  he  prepared  for  his 
departure.  He  kissed  his  beloved  wife  and 
daughter,  and  saying  "  farewell "  to  all,  he 
left  his  weeping  family  and  sorrowing 
people  for  the  far-away  country  where  were 
the  wigwams  of  the  relatives  of  Hassel. 
It  was  a  long,  lonesome  journey;  for  he 
would  not  allow  any  of  his  people  to  accom- 
pany him. 

When  he  reached  the  village  he  at  once 
entered  the  wigwam  of  the  dead  man,  and 
sitting  down  on  the  ground,  he  covered  his 
face  with  his  hands  and  burst  out  into  a 
paroxysm  of  weeping.  The  inmates  were 
astonished  and  perplexed  at  this.  The  news 
of  Hassel's  death  had  not  yet  reached  them, 
and  so  the  sight  of  a  strong  white  man 
sitting  in  their  wigwam,  weeping  like  a 
woman,  was  indeed  a  mystery. 

When  the  wild  burst  of  sorrow  was  over, 
and  Mr.  Evans  was  able  to  control  himself, 
he  told  the  sad  story  of  the  death  of  their 
relative,,  and  the  part  he  had  played  in  it. 


232      The  Apostle  of  the  North 

Of  course  there  was  intense  excitem^it. 
They  had  not  been  very  friendly  toward 
Hassel,  when  he  had,  as  they  expressed  it, 
"  left  the  reUgion  of  his  forefathers."  But 
they  had  been  eager  to  appropriate  the  large 
portion  of  his  wages  which  he  had  sent  to 
them  as  often  as  possible.  Now  that  he  was 
dead,  perhaps  the  fact  of  their  loss,  as  well 
as  their  old  pagan  instincts,  caused  them  to 
demand  vengeance  upon  the  one  who  had 
taken  his  life.  Tomahawks  were  drawn 
and  knives  were  unsheathed,  and  there  was 
a  cry  for  the  satisfaction  of  blood.  Strong 
words  were  uttered,  and  threatening  were 
some  of  the  actions  of  the  young,  hot- 
blooded  ones  among  them. 

Amidst  the  sharp  controversy  that  raged 
around  him  as  to  what  should  be  done,  the 
broken-hearted  missionary  sat  with  bowed 
head  and  covered  face.  He  was  utterly 
indifferent  as  to  their  actions.  He  cared 
not  what  should  become  of  him. 

Noble  womanhood,  even  if  it  was  in  the 
person  of  a  poor  old  Indian  mother,  decided 
the  question  and  turned  the  tide  in  his 
favor.  Hassel's  poor  old  mother  was  much 
shocked  when  she  heard  the  story  of  her 
son's  death.  She  had  bowed  herself  down 
in  her  grief  at  her  loss,  but  had  hstened 
attentively  to  all  that  was  said.     She  had 


A  Life  for  a  Life  2^3 

heard  the  mutterings  of  vengeance  on  the 
part  of  her  sons  and  others,  and  had  ob- 
served the  actions  of  those  who  would  not 
have  required  much  provocation  to  put  the 
stranger  to  death.  She  had  also  noted  the 
deep  sorrow  of  the  man  who  had  accident- 
ally taken  the  life  of  her  son.  With  quick 
intuition  she  had  observed  the  genuineness 
of  his  grief,  and  her  womanly  heart  was 
moved  in  sympathy  toward  him,  who  in  his 
sorrow,  had  thus  voluntarily  put  himself  in 
their  power. 

These  had  been  her  feelings  and  emotions 
during  the  discussion  as  to  the  penalty  to 
be  inflicted.  When  it  seemed  as  though  the 
avengers  of  blood  would  prevail,  and  Mr. 
Evans'  life  be  taken,  she  sprang  from  her 
place  in  the  wigwam,  and  going  over  to 
him,  she  put  both  her  hands  upon  his  head 
and  said : 

"  He  shall  not  die.  There  was  no  evil  in 
his  heart.  He  loved  my  son.  He  shall  live, 
and  shall  be  my  son  in  the  place  of  the  one 
who  is  not  now  among  the  living." 

There  were  some  murmurings  against 
this,  but  the  mother  strongly  pleaded,  and 
her  plan  was  ultimately  carried  out. 

When  the  days  of  mourning  for  the  dead 
were  ended,  Mr.  Evans  was  adopted  into 
the  tribe  and  family.     For  a  time  he  re- 


234    '-The  Apostle  of  the  North 

mained  in 'the  wigwam  of  his  new  father 
and  mother,  winning  their  love  and  admira- 
tion by  his  words  and  kindly  deeds.  He 
talked  to  them  of  God  as  revealed  in  Jesus 
Christ,  and  of  the  blessed  land  beyond  this 
into  which  their  son  had  entered. 

When  the  time  came  that  according  to 
the  custom  of  the  tribe  he  could  leave  to 
go  out  into  the  world  again,  he  kissed  them 
both  and  returned  to  his  far-away  family 
and  work.  He  was  ever  a  good  son  to  his 
new  parents.  As  Hassel  had,  since  he  had 
been  a  Christian,  been  very  thoughtful  of 
them,  and  had  sent  them  many  a  present 
for  their  comfort,  so  also,  and  much  more 
so,  did  James  Evans. 

Mrs.  Evans  and  her  daughter  shared  with 
him  in  the  resolve  to  live  with  the  closest 
economy,  in  order  to  help  that  aged  Indian 
foster-father  and  mother,  who  now  had  a 
claim  upon  him.  As  long  as  he  lived,  they 
had  their  portion  of  his  never  very  large 
salary. 

Memory  takes  me  back  to  the  time  when, 
as  a  little  boy  in  my  father's  parsonage,  I 
sat  at  the  feet  of  the  widow  of  James  Evans, 
and  listened  with  intensest  interest  as  she 
talked  of  these  thrilling  and  fascinating 
matters.  Little  dreamed  I  then  that  I 
should  ever  live  in  that  distant  land,  and 


A  Life  for  a  Life  235 

have  the  joy  of  having  in  my  Indian 
churches,  many  brought  to  God  through  her 
husband's  instrumentahty,  and  among  them 
John  Oig;  then  the  sole  survivor,  and  with 
Mr.  Evans,  the  only  witness,  of  the  tragic 
death  of  the  interpreter,  Thomas  Hassel. 


THE  END 


tR       M 


Xshe^P^ecord       of 


Ti 


o  n  e  e  r 


rom  Far   Formosa 

The  Island,  Its  People,  and  Missions.  By 
George  Leslie  Mackay,  D.D.  (for 
twenty-six  years  a  missionary  in  For- 
mosa). Edited  by  the  Rev.  J.  A. 
Macdonald.  With  17  Illustrations 
from  photographs  by  the  author,  4 
original  Maps,  and  an  Index.  8vo, 
decorated  cloth,  $1.25. 

"  It  is  a  monograph  on  Formosa's  peoples,  history, 
botany,  zoology,  topography  and  meteorology  and 
much  else— systematically  adjusted.  Tie  book  is 
well  illustrated.  Its  maps  are  many  and  precise." 
—The  Independent. 
'RICH  STO'RESZOF  KI^OWLE-DCB 
"  It  is  probable  that  only  one  man  living,  and  certainly  but  one 
who  speaks  the  English  language,  is  qualified  to  supply  such  infor- 
mation. The  man  we  refer  to  is  George  Leslie  Mackay,  D.D.  .  .  . 
The  book  before  us  proves  his  competence  to  avail  himself  of  his 
exceptional  opportunities,  and,  so  far  as  the  scope  of  his  personal 
inspection  went,  he  is  undoubtedly  the  highest  authority  upon  the 
eabiecV—New  T(yrk  Sun. 

"  The  book  is  as  fascinating  as  a  novel,  and  is  a  striking  contribu- 
tion to  our  knowledge  of  Southern  Japan,  being  especially  note- 
worthy for  the  rich  stores  of  scientific  knowledge  concemmg  the 
geoloCT^,  geography,  flora,  fauna  and  ethnology  of  the  'Beautiful 
Island.'  Yet  it  abounds  also  in  practical  hints  on  mission  methods, 
and  reveals  again  and  again  the  indomitable  courage  and  boundless 
resource  and  unfailing  love  which  are  behind  the  modem  hero  of  the 
CTom.'"— The  Sunday  School  Times. 

'Clear,    Condensed,    Comprehensive" 

~Kin.aw  a^nd  Formosa, 

The  Story  of  the  Mission  of  the  Presbyterian 

Church  of  England.     By  Rev.  James  Johnson. 

With  4  Maps  and  many  Illustrations,  prepared 

for  this  work.     8vo,  cloth,  $1.75. 

"The  book  is  a  valuable  addition  to  missionary  literature.'' 

—N.  T.  Observer. 

"  The  record  is  one  of  permanent  value  for  reference 

It  is  condensed,  but  not  at  the  expense  of  comprehensiveness,  clear- 
ness, or  interest.  "—/S'.  S.  Times. 

SA.LIEJVT  FACTS  Iff  A  /fUTSHELL 
"  "  The  author  is  an  accomplished  artist  in  narrative  of  this  kind; 
putting  into  a  nutshell  the  facts  one  wants  to  know  about  the 
people  and  their  ways,  and  with  equal  terseness  and  perspicuity 
recounting  the  salient  facts  of  the  history.  Abundant  and  well- 
chosen  representations  of  places  and  characteristic  features  of  native 
life,  with  a  large  group  of  portraits  of  missionaries,  illuminate  the 
pages  of  the  work.  The  book  is  itself  presented  with  unusual 
beauty  of  type  and  exterior,"— TToic^wan. 


c 


/f 


Uhrillin^    Stories    of    Missionary     Dexfofion 

THE 

Cobra's  Det\ 

More  Stories  of  Missionary  Work 
Among  the  Telugus  of  India 

By 

JACOB  CHAMBBRLAIN 

M.D..  D.D. 

12n\o.   CIotK.    Illustrated. 
$1.00 

"Dr.  Chamberlain  knows  how 
to  tell  a  story  and  he  has  some 
remarkable  stories  to  tell." 

—Zion's  Herald. 
"  For  years  he  has  sojourned  among  the  Telugus.    He  lived 
their  life,  learned  their  ways,  won  their  affections,  and  turned  many 
to  righteousness."— CAmiia^i  Uplook. 

^HP^OW^  JWEW   LIGHT    OJf   IJf'DI^ 

"  It  is  one  that  will  interest  not  only  those  who  take  a  pleasure 
In  reading  of  travels  in  strange  lands.  It  is  one  of  the  most  enter- 
taining books  of  the  kind  that  has  been  printed  in  a  long  time  and 
throws  a  new  light  on  the  habits  and  beliefs  of  India.  The  book 
is  excellently  written  and  illustrated."— J.i^ania  Constitution. 

Yn    the    Tiger    Jungle 

And  Other  Stories  of  Missionary  Work  Among  the  Telugus 

'By     JACOB    CHAMBE:R.LAIN,    M.D..    D.D. 

III>jstrated.    12mo.    Cloth.    $1.00 

*'  If  this  is  the  kind  of  missionary  who  mans  the  foreign 
Btations,  they  will  never  fail  for  lack  of  enterprise.  .  .  .  The  book 
is  withal  a  vivid  and  serious  portrayal  of  the  mission  work,  and  as 
such  leaves  a  deep  impression  on  the  reader."— 2" Ae  Independent. 

"  The  style  is  bright,  chatty,  attractive.  .  .  .  Dr.  Chamberlain 
is  an  artist.  He  knows  how  to  paint  a  picture,  to  tell  a  story,  to 
frame  an  illustration,  to  enforce  a  txwXti..''''— Assembly  Herald, 

FEta    EQ\/AL    HIM    IJ4     TELLI^fG 

•'  Few  missionaries  have  had  a  larger  or  more  varied  experience 
than  Dr.  Chamberlain,  and  still  fewer  equal  him  in  the  art  of  telling 
with  vivacity  and  realistic  graphicness  the  events  and  incidents  of 
his  long  and  energetic  missionary  service;  and  no  one  can  read 
without  an  increase  of  faith  in  the  ultimate  triumph  of  Christianity, 
and  a  fuller  assurance  that  our  God  is  the  hearer  of  prayer."       < 

—Ohrittian  Intelligence. 


c 


J^ 


] 


^    "Real     Contribution     to    FotK'L,ore 

HILE    SEWING 
SANDALS 

Tales  of  a  Telugu  Pariah  Tribe 

-By 

Emma    R.auscKenbuscK-ClougK>  Ph.D. 

lUvistreLted.    12n\o.    ClotK.    $1.50 

"  A  notable  book.  ...  A  real  contribution  to 
folk-lore.  It  indicates  for  the  first  time  the  his- 
torical antecedents  of  the  great  Telugu  revival.  No 
book  of  equal  value  for  a  knowledge  of  the  prin- 
ciples of  the  propagandism  of  religion  has  been 
produced  for  many  a  d&j/^— Chicago  Standard. 

^J^    VJVOCCX/PIET}   FIEL-D 

"  Quite  out  of  the  run  of  usual  missionary  literature.  ...  It 
explains  with  great  clearness  and  quaintness  the  remarkable  acces- 
sions to  Christianity  in  that  region  during  the  past  quarter-century 
as  being  due  only  in  part  to  the  experiences  of  tne  famine  of  1876-78. 
....  The  volume  is  not  only  a  choice  contribution  to  the  current 
literature  of  missions  in  an  unoccupied  field,  it  is  an  important  ad- 
dition to  our  first-hand  knowledge  of  Hindoo  religious  movements." 

— /S'.  S.  Times. 

I  AOS     FOLK-LORE 

of  Farther  Indian 

By    KATHE:R.INE     NEVILLE    FLEESON 

Illustrected.    16mo.    ClotK.    75  cents 

"  The  translator  and  compiler  has  taken  the  tales  as  they  fell 
from  the  lips  of  the  narrators,  and  the  English  form  into  which  she 
has  cast  them  is  as  graceful  as  it  is  appropriate."— /S'.  3.  Times. 

JVATX/'RE,    B^OMA/fCE,   ^DVEffTX/'RE 

"  Reveals  passion,  faith,  simplicity,  fear  and  dutifulness.  "With 
fine  discrimination  the  translator  has  grouped  the  fables  in  accord 
with  setting  and  occasion.  These  naive  tales  of  nature,  romance, 
religion,  cupidity  and  adventure  must  move  the  reader  with  no 
unreal  regard  for  the  people  among  whom  they  are  current,  and 
create  in  him  the  longing  for  their  betterment."— ^op^isi  Union. 

UHE    HISTO'Ry,     C\/STOMS,    I7}EA.S.    Etc, 

"  The  stories  are  novel  and  illustrate  the  history,  customs  and 
religious  ideas  of  an  interesting  people." — Observer. 

"A  delightful  book.  We  nave  read  every  word  of  it  with 
deepest  interest."— (7 A«rc^  Standard. 

"  A  valuable  addition  to  the  folk-lore  studies  of  the  world."  ^ 
—Pittsburg  Chronicle  Telegraph, 


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