The mission to Kandahar, with appendices:

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APPENDICES:

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MAJOPt H. 13. LUMSDEN.

WITH SUPPLEMENTARY REPOUT OF TUE EXPEDITION INTO UPPER MEERANZYE
AND KOOBBUM IN ISoG.

CALCUTTA:

PRINTED BY C. B. LEWIS, BAPTIST MISSION PRESS.
1860.

■-^; ■

L.77

HENRY MOF^SE STEPHENS

CONTENTS.

Resume of Events, ... ... ... ... .. Page 1

Future Prospects, ... ... ... ... ... 6

Character of Chiefs. The Amir,... ... ... ... ... ib.

Sirdar Muhammad Afzal Klian, ... ... ... 7

Sirdars Futeh Muhammad Khan and Jallaluddin Khan, ... ... ib.

Sirdars Shahsawur Khan and Shjihbaz Khan, ... ... ib.

The heir-apparent, ... ... ... ... ... ... 8

Sirdar Muhammad Azlm Khan, ... ... ... ib,

Sher All Khan, ... ... ... ... ... ... 9

Younger Sons of the Amir, ... ... ... ... 10

Distribution of Troops,... ... ... ... ... ... ib.

Strength of the Regular Army, ... ... ... 11

Recruiting, ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ib.

Pay, ... 12

Punishments,.,. ... ... .. ... ... ... ib.

Desertions, ... ... ... ... ... ib.

Arms, accoutrements and clothing, ... ... ... ... ib,

Officers, ... ... ... ... ... ... 13

Generals, and their duties, ... ... ... ... ... ib.

Shere Mahomed Khan (Campbell,) ... ... ... ... ... 14

General Faramosh Khan, ... ... ... ... ... ib.

Rustum Khan, ... ... ... ... ... 15

Feeling of contingents towards each other, ... ... ... ib.

Cavalry, .. ... ... ... ... ... 16

Artillery, ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ib.

General remarks on the Army, ... ... ... ib.

Jezailchis, ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 17

Irregular Cavalry,... ... ... ... ... 18

Commissariat, ... ... ... ... ... ... ib.

«i> .1. .-i O !..> o

[ IV ]

Magazines,

Page 19

Carriage,

... ib.

Eemounts,

ib.

Arab Cross, ...

... ib.

Affglian Horses, ...

20

Turkoman ditto.

... ib.

Forts, ...

21

Fort of Khilat-i-Ghilzie,

... ib.

Characters of the feudal nobility.

. ... 22

Sirdars Pir Muhammad Khan, Sultan Muhammad Khan and Kaundil

Klian,...

23

Sirdar Shere Ali Khan,...

... ib.

Sirdar Shumsh-ud-din Khan,

.. ... 24

Shahdowlah Kban,

... ib.

Sirdar Abdul Gyas Khan, ...

ib.

Sirdar Muhammad Asman Khan,

... ib.

Amin-ullah Khan and sons,...

25

Muhammad Shah Khan,

.. ib.

Ikram Khan Achakzie,

ib.

Ilafiz-ji,

... 26

Khan Sirdar Khan,

ib.

Nazir Nairn, ...

... ib.

Effects of Barakzle rule on the country generally,

27

Law and Justice,

... ib.

AfFghan provincial rulers,

. ... 28

Revenue Collections,

... ib.

Taxes, ...

30

Population, ...

... 31

Foreign Policy of the Amir,

32

With Belochistau,

... ib.

With Persia,

ib.

With Herat,...

... 33

In Turkistan,

ib.

With Bokhara,

... ib.

Appendix A.

The Pinur Eoute from Kohat to Cabul and Ghazni. Tlie distances as
far as the Kurram fort, measured with a perambulator, by Lieut.
Garnett, Engineers, November, 1857. The remainder are approximate, 43

' [ V ]

Appendix B.

Some account of the Tribes through whose country tlie Paiwar route from
Kobat to Cabul passes, after leaving the British Border, ... ... 58

Appendix C.
Sketch of Affghan tribes bordering and occupying the head of Bolan
Pass, from information collected at Kandahar, ... .. ... 70

Appendix D.
A few notes on AfTghan field-sports ... ... ... 80

Appendix E.
Traders and Trade of Western Affghanistan, ... ... ... 91

Appendix F.

A description of Kaffiristan and its inhabitants, compiled from tlie ac-
counts by Mr. Elphiustone and Sir A. Burnes, as well as from informa-
tion gathered from KiifTir slaves in the service of different Affghan
Sirdars, ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 112

A Vocabulary of the Kaffir Language as spoken in Traicguma and
Waigul, ... ... ... ... ... 124

Appendix G.

Routes from Farrah to Kirman, &c.,

General and Medical Report of the Kandahar Mission : —

A Brief Description of the Country between Kohat and Kandahar,
Some observations on Affghanistan and the Affghans,
Repoi't on the Kandahar Charitable Dispensary,

1G8
171
ib.
200
229

Appendix I.
Notes on the Flora of Affghanistan, ... ... ... ... 247

SUPPLEMENT.

Report of tlie Expedition into Upper Meeranzye and Koorrum, ... 255

Appendix.
Some Notes on the Valley of Koorrum and its People, ... ... 277

(Copy.)

From

Majoh H. B. Lumsden,

Ka n daha r Misa io ii,
To

The Secretary tctthe Chief Commissioner op the Punjab.

Dafid Pefihaicar, )i>t Jiihj, 1858.

Sir,

The oLjects of the Missiou to Kimdahar, with the charge of

,,,. , , 4 n r" which Government was pleased to entrust

Av ith apiieiidices A. u. C. *^

1). E. V. G. and II. and Dr. me, having been accomplished, I deem it
' ■ my duty on return to Peshawar to offer a

few observations on Affghanistan, its Army and its Pulers. It would
be presumptuous in me to recapitulate what has already been so well
described, in that ablest work ever published on a serai-barbarous
country, "Elphinstone's Cabul,^* viz.: the History and Topography of
Affghanistan ; neither is it necessary for me to take up the subject of
the British occupation of that country, and our disasters in it; for
that narrative has been written from different points of view by many
eye-witnesses ; and, under the able authorship of a Kaye, is to be found
condensed in an interesting and historical form : suttice it to say that
a very large proportion of the names which figured on both sides in
that eventful struggle have passed away, and much of the asperity to
whicli it gave rise has been softened by time.

2. It may, however, be useful to make a rapid resumed of the prin-
cipal events which have taken place, siuce the return of the Amir to
his kingdom, and to bring the history of the country down to the
present date.

3. in 1848, Sirdar Muhammad Akbar Klian, heir-apparent to the

Amir's throne, died; and it was shortly
Resume of events. „ i • i , , -. ,

aiterwartls proclanned to the world that the

Amir had selected Sirdar Gholam Hydar Khan (in preference to the

elder members of his family) as his successor; and every exertion has

B

[ 2 ]

since been made on tlie part of the Amir to concentrate power and
influence in the hands of this Sirdar.

4. In 1850, the Amir annexed Balkh to his dominions, placing
Sirdar Muhammad AfzalKhan, his eldest son, in the Government of the
district. And four years afterwards (on the death of Sirdar Kohandil
Khan) he annexed Kandahar, being driven to this step (as the Barak-
zais allege) by the discovery that his brother Eahmdil Khan was
intriguing with Persia, and willing to make Kandahar a province of
that Empire.

5. It was on the completion of this step, and while the Amir
was still at Kandahar, that the Persians advanced from Mashad,
occupied Herat, captured and afterwards murdered Yusuf Khan, the
Governor, pushed their outposts forward to Aumardarrah, and threat-
ened an advance on Kandahar.

6. In the interim (on the 30th March, 1855) Sirdar Gholam
Hydar Khan, on the part of his father, entered into an amicable treaty
with the Bi^itisli Government, binding the Amir to be the friend of
our friends, and the enemy of our enemies ; " So that on his dominions
being threatened from without, the Amir naturally turned to his new
allies, who, he could not help seeing, had at worst, been the most
generous of his enemies."

7. The British representatives at Teheran, having, on the Persian
advance on Herat, suspended diplomatic relations, a British force was
pushed round from Bombay by sea to Bushire ; and it had to be decided
what part the Aflfghans would play in the coming struggle. The
Amir, evidently doubtful of his ability to hold his newly acquired
province of Kandahar, re- built the Fort of Khilat-i-Ghilzie and made
it, what the Affghans consider impregnable, — or at any rate sufficiently
strong to defy the efforts of any Persian force advancing on Cabul or
Ghazni to reduce it; and leaving Sirdar Gholam Hydar Khan in
charge of Kandahar, he himself returned to his capital; and shortly
afterwards (towards the close of 1856) met the Chief Commissioner of
the Panjab at Peshawar, and personally entered into the treaty of the
6th January, 1857, binding himself thereby, on consideration of receiv-
ing a monthly subsidy of one lakh of rupees, during the continuance of
hostilities with the Persians, to keep up a certain number of regular
troops for the defence of Afifghanistan, and agreeing that British
Officers should be deputed to any portion of his dominions to see that

[ 3 ]

the subsidy was really applied to the purpose for which it was granted,
and to assist the Aflfghans in every way in military matters when called
on to do so.

8. A Mission composed of three British Officers, Major H. B.
Lumsden of the Guides, Lieut. Lumsden of the Quarter Master Ge-
neral's Department, and Dr. Bellew, assisted by Gholam Sarwar Khan
Khagwani, and accompanied by Nawab Faujdar Khan Bahadur, (who
was to be the Vakeel of the British Government at Cabul) left Peshawar
on the 13th March, 1857, and reconnoitring en route, the "Ispin
Ghawi'' and " Shutur Gardan," passes hitherto untrod by European
foot, and an account of which is given in Appendix A. and B. arrived
at Kandahar on the 2(3th April, and lost no opportunity of attempting
to regain the confidence of the Affghans generally, and of carrying
out the instructions of Government.

9. On the happy termination of the British expedition to the
Persian Gulph, and the outlines of the treaty of peace between the
British and Persian Governments (of the 4th March, 18-'37) becoming
generally known, great satisfaction was expressed by all classes of
Affghans ; but about the same time news arrived of the breaking out
of that fiery trial of British valour and energy, the mutiny of the
Bengal Army ; and for mouths all men's thoughts were concentrated
on Hindustan. As the storm thickened, urged by the preaching of
bigoted Muhammadan zealots, pressed on by the secret machinations of
the •' Peshawary Brothers," Sirdars Sultan Muhammad Khan and Pir
Muhammad Khan, the Affghan nation called on the Amir to put himself
at the head of the faithful, raise the green standard of " Islam," to
which thousands would flock, and pouring down the passes to sweep
the infidel Faringi from the contaminated soil of Plindustan ; and
thus once more re-establish Muhammadan supremacy throughout Asia.
The excitement throughout the country was intense, and the moinent
a most critical one, for the resolution of the aged ruler seemed for an
instant to stagger; and his better judgment was on the point of being |
swept along with the popular torrent, when his son Sirdar Muhammad
Azim Khan had the moral courage to come to the rescue, and exposing
himself to the full tide of popular disappointment, he reminded the
Sirdars of the power of the British nation, of the many storms which
had already burst harmlessly over their heads ; and that failure would be
to the Amir, the certain loss of his kingdom ; and openly accused the

B 2

[ ^' ]

" Posliawavy Brothers" of getting up the agitation in the hope of ruin-
ing his father for their own aggrandizement. The step was a bold one,
and caused a momentary estrangement between the Amir and his
son ; but the former on a httle reflection recalled Sirdar Muhammad
Azim Khan to his councils, approved of and acted on his advice, and
being materially strengthened by the cool and determined bearing of
our frontier authorities in the Peshawar district, the Amir weathered
the stoi'm, which entirely subsided on the fall of Delhi. Throughout
that anxious period, I was in daily intercourse with the heir-apparent,
who having had the advantage of seeing the signs of our power during
his visit to Bombay, Madras and Calcutta, was fully convinced of the
necessity of controlling the hasty rashness uf his countrymen ; and
frequent expresses passed up, in hot haste, to Cabul, imploring the
Amir to pursue a determined policy, adhesive to the British Alliance.

10. On the 27th July, the Persians ostensibly evacuated Herat
in accordance with the terms of the treaty, placing that government
in the hands of a creature of their own, Sirdar Sultan Ahmad Khan,
better known as Sultan Jan, a son of the late Sirdar Muhammad Azim
Khan, and nephew of the Amir. He selected for his minister Sirdar
Sher Ali Khan, second son of the late Kandahari Sirdar Mihrdil
Khan ; and in October Colonel R. Taylor, with a British Commission,
arrived from Bagdad at Herat, and in the name of the British acknow-
ledged the de facto Government. The Persian forces all the while
hovered in strong masses about the Herat frontier; and it was generally
believed that under the pretext of concentrating preparatory to a move
against the Turkomans, they were only watching the progress of events
in India ; and it was not until the tide of fortune was seen to have turn-
ed decidedly in our favour that they advanced towards Shahrukhs.

11. Colonel Taylor's party left Herat about the 1st March, 1858,
although the Jews and Hazarahs carried off from Herat had not been
given up, and Lash Jowain still remained in the hands of Persia, and
Sirdar Sultan Jan acknowledged the sovereignty of the Shah over
Herat by having the " Khutbah" read, and coinage struck in the name
of the Shah ; and on the departure of these Officers the Sirdar gave out
that he had dismissed the Mission, having made up his mind to have
nothing to say to infidels.

12. Towards the end of February 1858, the clergy of Kandahar,
always a turbulent body of bigots, actuated by the belief that Sirdar

[ o ]

Gliolam Hydar Khan had been bribed by the Hindus of Kandahar to
allow a young Hindu lad (whom the Miilahs alleged to have become
a convert to Islam) to return to idolatry, rose in open revolt, and being-
joined by the chiefs and the majority of the regular troops, demanded
from the heir-apparent the Hindu boy, who in the meantime had
escaped to Shikarpur. The Sirdar was obliged to give way, and put
the boy's father into confinement as a guai'antee that on the boy's re-
turn he would be delivered up. For a few days matters looked very
serious, and a general disturbance was imminent, till the confession of
weakness on the part of the heir-apparent temporarily settled things,
and affairs at Kandahar resumed their usual course.

13. Shortly after this Sirdar Gholam Hydar Khan proceeded to
join the Amir at Cabul, making over charge of Kandahar to Sirdar
Fateh Muhammad Khan. JMeanwhile the aspect of Persian aflairs had
materially changed, and the blustering valour of that army had been
made to succumb to the wily tactics of the wild Turkomans ; led on
by the expectation of plunder, the Persians after taking Shahrukhs and
leaving Shahdawlat Khan (a fugitive Affghan Sirdar) to rule the pro-
vince, pushed on to Marw, and encamped before it for upwards of a
month without making any impression on the garrison, until at last
Shahzadah Sultan i\Iurad Mirza finding his army starving, and reduced
to living on tlie baggage donkeys, ordered a retrograde movement on
Mashad, but had not proceeded many miles before the Persians found
themselves completely enveloped by Turkoman hordes, a situation
which caused a panic among his troops, in which the leader was one of
the first to consult his personal safety in flight, leaving the great mass
of his army to be taken prisoners and carried off into hopeless slavery.
About the same time a strong body of Persian re-inforcements advanc-
ing from Teheran under Jafir Kuli Khan, received a like check at
Mazenan, the leader himself escaping with difficulty.

14. On the 14th May Sirdar Kahmdil Khan, the Ex-ruler of
Kandahar, reached his capital en route to Teheran, having received the
Amir's permission to leave Atighanistan and given out that he was on
the point of proceeding on a pilgrimage to Mecca. As we had already
been informed that arrangements had been made by the Amir for the
return of the Mission by the same route which we had taken in enter-
ing Atighanistan, I thought it better for the interest of Govei'ument to
withdraw the Mission at once, as a matter of course, rather than, by

[ 0 ]

delaying, to get mixed up in any disturbance which would probably
follow the return of Sirdar Rahmdil Khan to Kandahar ; and therefore
the Mission left that town on our return journey, on the 1 5th Ma}^, and
arrived at Peshawur without the slightest inconvenience by the end of
June.

15. It is impossible for any stranger, from a study of the present

^ state of parties in Affsfhanistan, to form a

i^uture prospects. '■ ^ ^

probable conjecture as to who may succeed
to the throne of Cabul on the Amir's death, for even the best inform-
ed among Affghans themselves do not pretend to guess at it ; their
constant prayer is " that the life of the Amir may be preserved.'^ The
great elements of popularity in Affghanistan a:id of power in any
country, — money and troops, would lead one to speculate on the chances
of Sirdar Gholam Hydar Khan, or his family ; while personal courage
and qualifications as a leader, might collect the daring spirits of the
country round Sirdar Muhammad Afzal Khan ; but there is no certainty
that any of the Amir's sons will succeed ; for, as it has frequently hap-
pened in Asiatic States, some enterprising spirit may dash out of the
crowd, and by his own good sword and personal character alone, carry
off the prize. One thing, however, seems inevitable, and that is that on
the Amir's death, a struggle for power must ensue, and will probably
result in the total humiliation of one of the leading branches of the
Amir's family, or the dismemberment of the present AfFghan monarchy
into a number of petty states, when anarchy must prevail, commerce
cease, and this unfortunate country be once more deluged in blood.

16. The Amir Dost Muhammad Khan is now over seventy years

of a^e ; his carriao^e is slightly bent, but
Character of chiefs. The Amir. ,. .'','^ —,, -, , -,

his tall figure may still be observed tower-
ing above the crowd ; where strangers could not but remark the indi-
vidual whose master-spirit has ever carried him forward through the
most eventful of lives, and now points him out as the most remarkable
character in central Asia, The late Sir Alexander Burnes in his report
to Government has already well described his character ; and although
the Amir has all but lived out the average allotted years of man, his
mind still retains much of the vigour of his younger days ; and he dis-
plays the same quick perception of character, with the caution, and
promptitude of action, which marked his early career. As a Ruler,
judged by our European model, he would be considered a despotic

[ 7 ]

tyrant ; but as a master-spirit over such a superstitious^ barbarous and
discontented race as tlie AfFglians have ever shewn themselves to be^
he has proved himself equal to his position, and superior in clemency
to any of his predecessors.

17. Sirdar Muhammad Afzal Khan, whose mother was the daugh-

ter of a Mallik of the Tori village of Chil-
Sirdar Muhammad Afzal Khan. . ^ . .

layan in Kuram, is the Amir's eldest son,

and Governor of Balkh ; he is said lately to have given his daughter in
marriage to the eldest son of the Khan of Bokhara, and at the same
time betrothed his own son to the daughter of that chief; a circum-
stance which may afford some clue to the line of policy he proposes to
adopt on the Amir's death. Of Sirdar Muhammad Afzal Khan's clia-
racter, I have not had an opportunity of forming an opinion from my
own observations, but report makes him the bravest of the Amir's
sons, with a natural aptitude for a military life, and a character for
liberality, coupled with an unfortunate turn for dissipation of all sorts;
his talents for government, however, must be considerable, or he could
never have brought Jiaikh into its present comparatively promising
state.

18. Wazir Muhammad Akbar Khan was the favorite son of the

Amir, and died in 1848 leaving two sons
Sirdars Fateli Mulianunad cj- i t? a i ai i i I'l i i n i

Kl.an and Jalluludd.u Khan. Sn'dars Fateh Muhaumiad khan and Jallal-

ud-din Khan, the former Governor of Khi-

lat-i-Ghilzie ; and the latter of Zamindawar and Gharisk; these two

children of the late Wazir are now about twenty-live and twenty years

of age respectively, and are intelligent but noted as tyrannical rulers.

Considerable coolness exists between them and their uncle Sirdar Gho-

1am Hydar Khan ; who on his brother's death, married his wives

(according to Muhammadan usage) and appropriated all his property,

nevei*, until driven to do so, rendering the sh'ghtest assistance towards

promoting the interests of his nephews, who, on their part, lay claim to

the cash left by their father, and said by them to amount to seven lakhs

of rupees.

19. Sirdar Muhammad Ikrara Khan, who died some three years

ago in Balkh, has left two sons. Sirdars
Sirdars Slmlisawur Kiiaii and en „i , ,,„ r^i ,„ i oi i i iri ,,

ShahbizKhun Shahsawur Allan and Shahbaz Khan; the

former shows occasional symptoms of insani-
ty, and the other is but little thought of in the country generally.

[ 8 ]

20. Sinlar GlioLim Hydar Klian^ who was appointed heir-appar-
ent on Wazir MuhaTmnad Akbar's death^ is

ilie lieir-appaient.

his full brother ; both being children of a
daughter of Haji Eahmat-ullah (whose sister was one of the wives of
the late Shah Sujah). The heir-apparent has no children of his own;
although^ for an Affghan, very intelligent and judicious iii matters
which are brought immediately before hira^ yet^ owing to the extreme
unwieldiness of his figure, he has the grestest dislike to anything like
bodily or mental exertion ; and consequently seldom troubles himself
more than is absolutely necessary with the administration of his district,
but confines his exertion to political finesse, for which he evidently
fancies he has a turn ; the result is, that the management of his afiairs
is left in the hands of his subordinates, whose chief aim, like that of all
others in the same position in this country, is to make money for them-
selves and to stop all channels through which complaints might possi-
bly reach the ears of royalty. The heir-apparent is now upwards of
thirty-five years of age, and spends the greater part of his tiiTie either
in his Harem, or in Darbar where he sits for hours daily listening to
the gossip of the place or in conversation with his chiefs, and gives
occasional orders in matters which may then be brought before him.
He is nervous, and wanting in personal courage, and has a strong taste
for dissipation and vice ; and with a few choice companions frequently
indulges in disgraceful midnight orgies, his figure alone preventing his
outstripping all his brothers in these practices. With more cash than
any other Sirdar in the country, he had not the , heart to turn it to
account, and has a very bad name throughout the country for this very
reason. He seems well inclined towards the British Government, and
speaks in the highest terms of the manner in which he was treated
while a prisoner in Hindustan, and regrets that he did not then avail
himself of the opportunity afforded him of visiting England.

21. Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan is full brother to Sirdar
„. T ,^ , , . . ,„ Muhammad Afzal Khan, and governs Khost.

oirdar Muhammad AzimJxhan. ^

Turmut and Kuram ; he has five sons, the
eldest of whom is Muhammad Sarwar Khan, a sickly lad of twelve or
thirteen. Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan has a tall commanding figure,
pleasant address ; and from his constant residence at Cabul is well
versed in all the affairs of the country, and evidently has considerable
weight in the yiniir's counsels ; so much so indeed that when the heir-

[ 9 1

apparent arrived at Cabul and wished to get Sirdar Slier Ali Khan
sent to Kandahar in his room, he wrote to Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan
to come over and arrange matters for him. This chief is evidently well
inclined towards us, and has shown his good will, both in words and
deeds ; and the prominent position he took up in July last, when the
Aifghans clamoured for a descent down the passes, alone marks his
decided character ; he of course only pursued the policy which he con-
sidered advantageous to his o>vn future career, but in doing so, there is
little doubt that he also did good service to the British Government.
Unfortunately, like all Barakzais, he has a natural love for dissipation
and vices of the most degrading description. It would not be fair to
judge of Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan's administrative talents (in com-
parison with his brothers) by the present state of Kuram and Khost,
as the revenues of those districts do not nearly cover the expenses of
the troops required to hold them ; but after all, he is the only Sirdar
who regularly pays his men a monthly quota, for he does give his men
two rupees regularhj, and then settles with them afterwards regarding
the remaining three rupees, after the usual Atfghan fashion.

22. Sirdar Sher Ali Khan is full brother to the heir-apparent, |

thoucjh a few years younger; he is said to
Sher Ali Khan. , ° , , p ,r^

hav^e a great deal oi intelligence and apti-
tude for business, but is freijuently an invalid from attacks of gout, to
which all this branch of the Amir's family are subject. For some
time past he has not been on very cordial terms with Sirdar Gholara
Hydar Khan ; the quarrel originated at the time when Sirdar Fateli
Muhammad Khan claimed his fatiier's projjerty from the heir-apparent,
and being refused went to his uncle Sher Ali Khan, who at tirst
received him coldly but eventually appointed him Governor of the
Khilat-i-Ghilzie district, which is a dependancy of Ghazni ; thi^ at
once secured the good-will of his two nephews, but at the same ^me
crave mortal umbraofe to Sirdar Gholam Hydar Khan, who has n|ver
forgiven his brother ; and the feud lias lately been increased by Sher
Ali Khan's attempting to out-bid the heir-apparent in the farming of
the revenues of the Cabul and adjacent districts. He is a man of 1
violent temper and cruel disposition, and is well known to be but ill-
pleased with the British alliance ; and, in passing through his district, \
we in several instances, saw signs of his ill-will towards us. Sirdar
Sher All Khan has now three sons ; — the two first Sirdars Muhammad

c J

[ 10 ]

Ali Khan and Ibrahim Khan, are the children of a Popalzai mother,
while Muhammad Yakub Khan, the third, is a son of a daughter of
Saadat Khan Muhammad.

23. Of the younger sons of the Amir^ I need not take much

notice, as thev are at present of little poli-
Younger sons of the Amir. • , i i ^■^ i

tical value, and not nkely to come promi-
nently forward ; I shall therefore merely enumerate their names, present
employment, and the tribe of the mother of each, so that full brothers
may be easily picked out.

Wall Muhammad Khan. — Bangash mother. Governs Akcha, and
is full brother to Muhammad Afzal and Azim Khans.

Muhammad Amin Khan. — Popalzai mother. Rules in Kohistan,
and is brother of the heir-apparent. He has two sons, Muhammad Ishmail
and Zulfikar Khans.

Muhammad Sharif Kli an. — Popalzai mother. Governs Mukar and
Alikhel.

Ahmad Khan. — Saddozai mother. Has an allowance in Cabul.

Muhammad Asla^n Khan. — Persian mother, and Lord of Bamian.

Muhammad Zaman Khan. — Saddozai mother. Has an allowance in
Cabul.

Muhammad Hasan Khan. — Persian mother. Commands four
hundred men in Cabul.

Muhammad Hussain Khan. — Persian mother. Has an allowance in
Cabul.

Faiz Muhammad Khan, — Bangash mother. Commands all the
Artillery in Cabul.

Muhammad Karim Khan. — Persian mother. Resides in Cabul.

Faiz-uUah Khan. — Hazara mother. Also resides in Cabul.

Muliamm,ad Yusaf. — Is a son of the sister of Muhammad Aziz
Khan Ghilzi, and has an allowance.

Muhammad Asman Khan. — Saddozai mother. Has an allowance
in Cabul.

There are besides these, two small children, sons of the daughter
of Nazir Khair-ullah.

24. The power in the hands of each of these Princes will be best

seen from the following distribution state-
Distribution of Troops. . ,. ,1 * • J X •. 1 • 1

ment oi the Amir s troops, it being borne

in mind that each Governor of a province has only under his command

[ n ]

his own particular regiments, and that these are never transferred to
other stations, except in cases of extraordinary emergency, when by
the upsetting of all the arrangements for their pay, clothing and
accounts, this might be for a limited time effected,

25. At BalJih are three regiments of infantry, two of regular
Cavalry, and sixteen guns, under Sirdar Muhammad Afzal Khan, who,
since the death of his General, Slier ]\[uhammad Khan (Campbell), has
placed his own eldest son in command.

In Bamian and Hazara, one regiment of Infantry with two guns,
under Sirdar Muhammad Aslam Khan.

In the Koh'istan, one regiment of Infantry, two Field and two
Mountain Train guns, under Sirdar Muhammad Amin Khan.

lu Cahul, two regiments of Infantry, eighteen field-pieces, two
heavy guns and a mortar. All the Artillery under Sirdar Faiz Mu-
hammad Khan.

In Ghazni, one regiment and four guns under Sirdar Shor
Ali Khan.

At Alccha, one regiment and two guns under Sirdar Wali Mu-
hammad Khan.

In Khxlat-i-Ghilzie, one regiment, three liglit and ono heavy guns,
under Sirdar Fateh Muhammad Khan.

In Kaiulahaf, three regiments of infantry, one of cavalry, not
yet completed, two heavy guns, two mountain-train and twelve field-
pieces under the heir-apparent.

Over Fo.rah, Zdinbuhiwdr, and G/inrisk, is scattered a regiment
of Infantry with four guns under Sirdar Jallal-ud-din Khan.

25^. The nominal strength of each of the above regiments is

eight hundred bayonets, but seldom are
Strength of the regular army. • i t i

there more than six hundred present with

the standard. The Cavalry Corps are supposed to be tliree hundred

strong ; and the total Affghan regular force may thus be calculated

at sixteen regiments of Infantry, three of Cavalry, wath an Artillery

Park of one mortar, five heavy guns, seventy-six field-pieces, and six

mountain-train s'uns.

o

26. The Infantry of this army is as fine a body of men in point

of physical power as is to be found in Asia,
and seems, at first sight, capable of under-
going immense fatigue ; but after seeing a good deal of these men, I
c 2

[ 12 ]

considerably doubt their powers of endurance ; they are principally
recruited from the mountain districts ; and the best men are said to be
Ghilzies, Wardaks and Kohistanies. The system of recruiting, how-
ever, is the worst conceivable, for it is neither a conscription nor free
enhstment, but the forcible seizure of the able-bodied men from each
district, who are compelled to serve on pain of imprisonment and the
utter ruin of their families.

27. The pay of a foot soldier is nominally five rupees a month,

with two months in each year deducted for

Pay.

clothing and half mounting, but the distri-
bution of the remainder even is very irregular, and a considerable por-
tion of it is paid in grain, or what amounts to the same thing a certain
amount of revenue is remitted to their families at home on this account ;
and consequently the soldier often finds himself without the means of
purchasing the common necessaries of life in his quarters, and is thus
driven to recruit his finances by plunder and highway robbery, delin-
quencies at which the ofiicers are obliged to wink, they themselves
frequently sharing in the plunder.

28. Punishments too are very severe ; the men's pay for months

together is frequently mulcted ; and soldiers
Punishmeuts. . -, ^ ■ -, ^ t • n

are stripped, laid with their faces on the

ground, and beaten with sticks until they become insensible, or even

die. In cases of desertion, their families are seized, and sold as slaves,

and the individuals themselves when caught, either made to serve in

chains or hung. For selling a Government musket, I have myself known

a man hung ; and in short soldiers are so ill-treated, that fear alone

prevents men from mutinying : a crime, the slightest symptoms of which

are punished with instant death, without even the shadow of a trial.

29. The greatest precautions are taken at the Head Quarters of

Corps to prevent desertion ; notwithstanding
which one hundred and fifty or two hundred
men invariably abscond yearly from each regiment stationed at a dis-
tance from Cabul.

30. Most of these troops are armed with our old flint musket

and bayonet, or an imitation of them made
clofhmg'. '''°"^''"''"*' "^'^ at Cabul; but a few companies have two-
grooved rifles constructed from models car-
ried off by deserters from some of our frontier regiments. The

[ 13 ]

accoutrements are of the very worst description, generally picked up
at auctions of condemned stores in our frontier stations, while a few
are made up in Cabul ; they are seldom cleaned and never fitted to
individual soldiers; the clothing too is all procured from the same
markets ; and native officers of all grades, even in the same regiment,
may be seen in every imaginable British habiliment, from a Navy coat
to a Whipper-in^s hunting coat and General's full dress, or a Civilian's
round beaver hat. Notwithstanding these drawbacks, the corps which
we have seen, are very tolerably drilled, and appear rough but ready
soldiers ; and the reason given for their being so fantastically dressed in
preference to their own picturesque costume, is not that the government
have not the money to expend on better clothing, but that the British
uniform carries with it, in Afighanistau, a prestige which it is vain to
look for under any other garb. The beards of the soldiers are also
shaven in imitation of our custom, as well as to render the recognition
of a deserter more certain.

31. These troops are never brigaded together, and the officers

know little or nothing of their dutv ; they
OfBcers. i /.

can go through a few parade mana^uvres,

but themselves confess that they cannot perceive any meaning or use in
them beyond mere display. Blank ammunition is never served out ;
and except when on actual service the men never fire a shot ; the con-
sequence is that with the exception of those few shikaris (hunters)
who have handled a jczail or matchlock from the time that they could
speak, none of the men have the slightest idea of using their arms
with coolness and precision, and there is scarcely a decent shot to be
found among them.

32. It is usual for each iSirdar to have an officer in command of

, , . , . all his troops, on whom devolves the no

Generals, and tlieir duties.

easy task of keeping the men contented on

the least possible amount of pay. The meu's accounts are intricate

in the extreme, even had they not to be systematically falsified : if the

men mutiny, his life is at stake ; and his peculiar study appears to be to

know the exact limit of human endurance ; for when it becomes no

longer possible to stave off pay-day, by further excuses to the men, he

is sure of being reprimanded in no measured terms by his master for

want of tact, and he is not even then sure of getting the amount

required, for every subterfuge is resorted to before anj-^ Affghan Sirdar

[ 14 ]

will pay up the over-due arrears of his soldiery. Should this officer,
who usually receives the title of General, be an energetic, active soldier,
who contrives to keep matters tolei-ably straight, he has the powers
of life and death over the men, and after a few years it invariably
happens that he becomes supreme, and so useful to his master that in
the event of any accident befalling him, no man can be found to fill
his place. Such a man was the late Sher Muhammad Khan (Campbell),

who was once an ofiicer in the Company's
(Campbell)^''^'^"'"'^'^ ^^'^"^ service, afterwards in that of the Sikhs ;

he then came to Afighanistan with Shah
Sujah-ul-mulk, and was conspicuous for his personal bravery ; but
being severely wounded and taken prisoner in the battle lost by his
master near Kandahar, he renounced his faith and became a Muham-
madan, taking service with the Barakzais, for whom he laboured long
and faithfully, but of late years he had given himself up entirely to
drunkenness and debauchery ; he commanded Sirdar Muhammad Afzal
Khan's troops in Balkli, where he died last winter of fever.

33. Of the ofiicers at present commanding contingents, per-
haps Faramosh Khan, general of the heir-apparent's troops, is
the most conspicuous ; his character may be thus briefly described :

he is a native of Waigall, one of the di-
General Faramosh Khan. . . ^ .

visions of Kafiristan (for further particulars

of which see Appendix F.) and is now about thirty-five years of age ;
he was formerly a slave, the property of the late Wazir Muhammad
Akbar Khan, at whose death he was transferred to the late Sirdar
Muhammad Ikram Khan, whom he accompanied to the Panjab, in
the flying visit which the Aflfghans paid that district during the last
Sikh campaign. He is now in all military difficulties, the factotum
of the heir- apparent, and has perhaps, as much personal influence over
him, as any of his followers. If this man had received a tolerable educa-
tion, and his lot been cast in any other sphere, but among Affg-hans,
he might have turned out a very superior character, he is clear-headed,
intelligent, and possesses considerable energy, with an aptitude for
picking up and retaining all sorts of information; he was instructed
in the rudiments of the military art by Sher Muhammad Khan (Camp-
bell), and has studied the subject sufficiently to be able to manoeuvre
a regiment of infantry or cavalry tolerably ; and, being able to do so, is
looked upon by Affghans as a perfect soldier. Of war he knows nothing.

[ 15 ]

and as he says himself is not Hkely to be called on to do so ; for when
AfFghans engage in such pursuits, they rely moi-e on diplomacy and
intrigue than on military strategy, and when driven to fight, every
petty chief supposed to have a drop of royal blood in him, supersedes
the general and has a voice in the matter ; — and as may be expected
on these occasions, the result is that in a multitude of such counsellors,
there is anything but wisdom. In petty affairs among the hill tribes,
Faramosh Khan is said to have displayed personal courage, an attribute
which is generally accorded to all his race. Affghans declare that,
being a slave, he dare not commit a serious mistake, for to do so would
cost him his head ; he receives one hundred rupees a month for his ex-
penses, and has horses and arms supplied by his master. Althouo-h
he may not have been so naturally, his disposition has become cruel,
revengeful, and cunning in the extreme, and this seems to be the usual
result of the conversion of any of the Kafir tribe to Muhammadanism,
of which the following instance is another sample.

34. When the late Wazir Muhammad Akbar Khan went up with

a force to Kunur, he sent on Eustara
Kustum Khan.

Khan, a converted slave (now commanding

Sirdar Jallal-ud-din Khan's regiment) with a company to occupy Chagar
Serai, from whence Kustara Khan sent a message to his own relations
and friends in Katar, whom he had not seen for many years, to inti-
mate that he was at Chagar Serai, unable to get away, but longing to
meet them all again ; on this some forty men and women, chiefiy his
own near relatives, came down to see him ; he conducted them in the
most tender manner inside the fort, where he had his company con-
cealed and ready, who on a given signal fired a volley into the party,
and closing, killed six Kafirs, taking the remainder prisoners to be
made slaves for life. General Faramosh Khan related this diabolical
story to me with evident exultation, and as an instance of the acumen
of his race when under proper tuition.

35. From their system as well as the nature of Affghans gener-

ally, great jealousies exist between the con-
JS'Sir""'""" '"■ «°g«°t» °f different S.rdars, which fre-

queutly break out into serious conflicts when
these troops are by any accident brought together. The subdued feel-
ings of the chiefs towards each other will invariably be found to pervade
their followers down to the smallest drummer-boy in a regiment, who.

[ 1^ ]

though he does not hesitate to abuse his master soundly among his
companions, would consider it a personal insult for the follower of a
rival chief to do so.

36. Of the regular cavalry, I am not able to speak so confi-

dently, having only seen the incomplete
regiment belonging to Sirdar Gholam Hydar
Khan ; these are, in all respects, bad imitations of our Indian Light
Cavalry, copying even their hussar saddles and steel scabbards ;
their appointments like those of the infantry are of the very worst
description ; the men are perpetually kept at foot drill, but only
mounted during the cold season, as their horses are sent away to graze
in summer; they are all mounted on either Turkoman or private-
bred horses ; but from the want of knowledge of their duties in the
officers, this arm is almost a useless body ; by their shadow of disci-
pline, they have lost the individual confidence so requisite in irregular
troops, and yet they have no one among them who can handle them so
as to be useful as regular light cavalry.

37. From the Aflghan Artillery much cannot be expected, consi-

derinar that the officers have no scientific
Artillery. , ^ ^ ,. ,

knowledge and very little practice ; hereto-
fore they did not even know the use of a tangent scale; the height of
their ambition being to give a regular salute, and to know the compo-
sition of a fuse, and how to fill it ; without being able to cut one the
proper length for any required distance. They are clothed in our old
cast ofi" artillery uniforms. The heir-apparent's troop is very well
horsed, with rather small but very compact animals, well suited to the
nature of the country in which they are expected to act. From the
numerical strength of the Amir's ordnance, a very false idea might be
formed of the actual state of his Artillery, for many of these guns are
useless, while for others there is no ammunition ; and the equipment
and carriages of the field guns generally are in the most inefficient
condition.

38. An army organized as that of Affghanistan now is, could not

for an hour oppose even a brigade of well
General i-emarks on the army. ,,-,-,..,.1 i ,i

handled disciplined troops ; but at the same

time it has always proved itself infinitely superior to the gatherings of ,

wild tribes such as are to be met with in the Amir's dominions, and

against whom alone they have hitherto been called on to act. I

[ 17 ]

39. Besides his Regular army, tlie Amir has always available the

Jezailchis, which were formerly the only
Jezailchis. . „ . , "^ .

infantry m the country ; they are tiralleurs

or light troops, armed with matchlock or jezail, and accustomed to

hill warfare ; and are perhaps as good skirmishers as are to be found

in Asia, being good judges of ground and distance ; instinct teaches

them almost to scent an ambush, and it is a current remark in the

country that a good jezailchi on a hill side will conceal his body

behind his own grass sandals. They are of two descriptions, those in

Government pay on a nominal salary of five rupees per mensem (paid

chiefly in grain) and armed by the State, and the jezailchis of the

different chiefs who generally have a piece of rent-free land assigned

them in lieu of pay. The Government jezailchis now muster some

three thousand five hundred men, are chiefly employed in holding forts

and thannahs all over the country, and are commanded by Sadbashia

and Dahbashis, or captains of hundreds, and heads over tens, who

receive a proportionate increase of pay and are divided as follows :

With Sirdar Muhammad Afzal Khan in Balkh, 400. Sirdar Mu-
hammad Azim Khan, 100. The heir-apparent, 1,000 (scattered over
Kandahar, Gharisk and Farrah). Sirdar Sher Ali Khan, 300. Sirdar
Muhammad Amin Khan, 200. Sirdar Muhammad Aslam Khan, 200.
Sirdar Muhammad Sharif Khan, 100. The Amir's own, 200. Dis-
tributed over different petty chiefs in bodies of thirty and forty, 1,000
Total 3,500.

The other jezailchis are the immediate followers of their respec-
tive chiefs, and may be considered as mere local militia, liable to be
called upon to follow their lords whenever the Government require
their services. Of the strength of the latter, it is difficult to form an
estimate ; but if we take the truest criterion, the numbers which have
on former emergencies been collected, I consider that from a thousand
to fifteen hundred is the utmost that could be got together at one
place, for we must remember that although it is natural for people
to talk of combinations to oppose common enemies, and the risino* of a
population en masse, yet an Affghan hates no one so sincerely as his
nearest neighbour if he be more powerful than himself, and that his
love of country or any other human tie will always give place to his
self-interest or love of revenge ; so that a collection of the whole male
population for any length of time, for a given object, is simply impos-
D

[ IS ]

.sil)lfc% although a considemble mob might be got togethei' to make a
simultaneous rush for the sake of plunder.

40. The Irregular Aflfghan Horse are even more diflBcult to com-

pute than the jezailchis^ for it is notorious

Irregular Cavalry. , , . , i , , , i ■ ti

that they are never kept up to anything like
the complement required from each chief, and this is the true reason
for the practice of all great Sirdars sending out what is called a " Pesh
Khima/' or advanced camp, some considerable time before they march, in
order to give their feudal chiefs time to fill up their quotas of horse. Were
this not the case, Kandahar and its dependencies should furnish eight
thousand Jagirdari Horse ; Ghazni 5000 • Cabul, including Jellalabad,
Logar and the Koh-i-daman, 15,000 ; while Balkh with its Uzbegs could
give 10,000 more, making a total of 38,000. But if we consider the actual
state of affairs I think that 20,000 may be calculated as an extreme esti-
mate of this description of force in the country. These troops are equal to
any undisciplined horsemen in Asia ; mounted on small but wiry horses,
they are armed with every imaginable weapon, shield, spear, matchlock,
sword, pistol and knife ; and no Affghan Sowar seems altogether com-
fortable unless he is literally bristling with arms, one-half of which he
could never have time or occasion to use ; they are, however, rough
and ready soldiers, capable of undergoing great fatigue, terrible to a
flying foe, good hands at feeling for an enemy or foraging, and when
led by a determined chief, anything but a contemptible in a meloe.

41. The Affghans have no commissariat, and in fact pretend to

none ; in districts where the revenue is paid
Commissariat. . . . ...

Ill gram a certain proportion is allotted to

each fort, and parties receive orders (tankhds) on the headmen of

villages when marching. In this way all troops on the line of march

must be fed by the nearest villages, the latter getting credit for the

amount of grain, &c. supplied, when the revenue comes to be collected.

In disturbed districts, or foreign countries, Affghan troops always live

on their enemies and pay for nothing. On any great occasion of public

danger, when the whole available force may be collected en masse,

each district has to furnish a certain amount of grain, as well as its

contingent of militia, each soldier receiving a seer of flour daily from

the common store ; so long as this lasts, the militia consider themselves

bound to remain with their standards, but the day that this allowance

ceases, the whole retire to their respective homes.

[ 19 1

42. There is no ordnance commissariat in AfFghanistan, nor any-

thing deserving the name of a magazine.

Each Sirdar has a few hundred rounds of
shot for his own guns, and a supply of lead for his small arm ammu-
nition, manufacturing his own powder on the spot as required, and
seldom having, at the most liberal calculation, more than twenty or
thirty maunds in store, most of which will be found old and damaged.
When, at any crisis, arms and ammunition are required, the Avorkmen
from the nearest town are seized and forced to do the needful, receiving
a seer of atta daily while so employed, and not unfrequently being
obliged to furnish material. If workmen are not to be found, supplies
are usually sent from Cabul.

43. In Affghanistan there are but two sorts of carriage iu general

use, — either camels or yabus. Of the first,
no great number could ever be procured,
unless forcibly seized from the Povindiah and Nomade tribes ; there
seem to be scarcely camels enough in the country to carry on the
limited trade, and many of these have been imported from Belochistan.
The most common beast of burden is the yabu, a powerful galloway,
possessing great endurance, combined with considerable activity. It will
thrive on almost any fare, and is often called upon to make long
marches, carrying heavy loads, or with two men on its back ; and it is
in this manner that the Aifghans and Turkomans contrive to make
such treinendous marches in their '^chapaos" or forays.

44. The supply of good horses in Atfghanistan is not so great as

is generally supposed, and is derived from

three sources : — the private bred, or those

from the royal studs ; the horses indigenous to the country ; and those

imported from Turkistan, Hazara and Persia. The first are generally

considered the most valuable, and are of the best Turkoman or Persian

, , stock, crossed with the Arab. The Amir

Arab cross.

alone is said to have five hundred mares,

located in the Hazara district of " Nur," where the grassy slopes of

the " Gulkoh" mountains afford luxm-iant pasturage; the produce of

these is annually distributed among his sons and chief Sirdars, while

they, in turn, have proportionate breeding establishments. These studs

have only been in operation a few years, but have produced such a

superior style of horses that all the chiefs have hcon iuoculaLed with au

D 2

[ 20 ]

Arab mania^ and it is not difficult to foresee that in a very short time a
valuable breed of horses will be procurable from this country j but
AfFghanistan can never be calculated upon to supply India with any
considerable number of horses^ as the demand in the country itself is
always great^ and the trade attended with many risks, besides requiring
a capital which few can command. In addition to these drawbacks, the
demand in our army is generally for animals between three and five
years of age, while the best horses here are sold off as yearlings, the
breeders being anxious to recover their money as soon as possible.

45. The horse indigenous to Affghanistan is generally a heavy

shouldered, thick legged, soft animal, from
Affglian horses.

fourteen to fifteen hands high, with no

blood, and unfit for fast work, although they will get over incredible
distances at their own particular pace, which is an ambling sort of
shuffle a little more than four miles an hour ; but the worst feature in
this breed is that it cannot stand anything like excessive heat, and
when urged to extraordinary exertion I have known them tumble
down dead, while other horses were not distressed ; they are considered
by many people, however, as very good in draft, having a natural apti-
tude for a steady pull from the shoulder.

46. The Turkoman horses exported to Peshawar are brought

down via Balkli and Cabul from Andkho,
Shahbaghan and towards Bokhara, and are
characterised by a want of bone, and too heavy a carcass in proportion
to their legs ; they are purchased at from two to ten tomans on the
spot, and the profit on them at Peshawar is about thirty per cent, after
paying all expenses. Eadakshan also supplies a few animals, but as
the " khattaghani" breed is a very favorite one among Affghan Sirdars,
and likely to be appropriated by them in transit, dealers are shy in
bringing them down (although they are undoubtedly the best horses
procurable on this line of country), but prefer taking inferior breeds at
from eight to ten tomans, upon which they find they can make more
profit. The Sindh market is again supplied with a superior breed,
smaller in size but with more blood ; these come from Shahrukhs, Mai-
munnah, Hazara, and Mashad, and it is at this latter place that the
best breeds such as " Yamuts," Takhahs, " Chowdhur,^^ &c. are
procured, as well as Persian horses; but the reasons already given
also prevent dealers ou this line from speculating in the blood cattle.

[. 21 ]

The higher cost horses are sent do^vn from Mashad to Bushire and the
coast where they are shipped for Bombay as Gulf Arabs.

47. While on the subject of the Aflfghan army, I might here

enumerate and describe the forts and mili-
Forts. - - .

tary posts, scattered over the country, trom

native information ; but never having visited many of them, and being

aware that plans and descriptions of them, as well as of the defences

of Kandahar, Cabul and Ghazni, are already in the office of the Quarter

Master General, I shall merely remark that Kandahar is now exactly

in the same state in which we left it; the same remark applies to

Cabul; and the defences of Ghazni have been repaired (wherever we

injured them) with *'puska" work, but are in such a state that it would

offer but little opposition to a regular force. Khilat-i-Ghilzie has been

enlarged and entirely rebuilt, and a rough sketch is here annexed in

Appendix H. which, with the following description, may afford some

idea of the present fort.

48. The present fort of Khilat-i-Ghilzie stands on an isolated

plateau, havinof a command to the south, of
Fort of KIiilat-i-Gbilzie. ^ , , i ^ p , ,

several hundred feet above the surrounding

country; the slopes from which form the glacis, and are in places

exceedingly steep. The tracing is irregular, but affording generally

a strong defensive outline. The ramparts have been scarped to a

great height out of tlie face of the liill, and revetted with puska

(kneaded sti'aw and mud built in layers and allowed to dry in the

sun). A good substantial parapet surmounts this, and is carried all

round the works, which now embrace the whole plateau. Towards

the western face, a mass of conglomerate shooting up to the height of

some eighty or one hundred feet, affords a natural cavalier, upon which

a gun, en barbette, ranges over all the works ; under this mound,

on a level with the terreplein of the fort, is the old magazine, which

was screened on the exposed side by a substantial wall of puska ; but

a new one has now been built in a far worse position, immediately

to the south of the cavalier ; and from the mound, two copious springs

flow, affording an abundant supply of dehcious water for any garrison.

There are two gateways of the usual native construction, with the

road-way turning at right angles shortly after entering the place ;

the main one is to the south, the approach to it steep and well flanked

by the tracing of the works on the left. The other gateway is

^

^v

[ 21 ]

Tlie higher cost horses are sent down from Mashad to Bushire and the
coast where they are shipped for Bombay as Gulf Arabs.

47. While on the subject of the Affghan army, I might here

enumerate and describe the forts and mih-
Forts.

tary posts, scattered over the country, from

native information ; but never having visited many of them, and being

aware that plans and descriptions of them, as well as of the defences

of Kandahar, Cabul and Ghazni, are already in the office of the Quarter

Master General, I shall merely remark that Kandahar is now exactly

in the same state in which we left it; the same remark applies to

Cabul; and the defences of Ghazni have been repaired (wherever we

injui'ed them) with "puska" work, but are in such a state that it would

offer but little opposition to a regular force. Khilat-i-Ghilzie has been

enlarged and entirely rebuilt, and a rough sketch is here annexed in

Appendix H. which, with the following description, may afford some

idea of the present fort.

48. The present fort of Khilat-i-Ghilzie stands on an isolated

_ „ ^ plateau, haWng a command to the south, of

Fort of Khilat-i-Gbilzie. l ^ o >

several hundred feet above the surrounding
country; the slopes from which form the glacis, and are in places
exceedingly steep. The tracing is irregular, but affording generally
a strong defensive outline. The ramparts have been scarped to a
great height out of the face of the hill, and revetted with puska
(kneaded straw and mud built in layers and allowed to dry in the
sun). A good substantial parapet surmounts this, and is carried all
round the works, which now embrace the whole plateau. Towards
the western face, a mass of conglomerate shooting up to the height of
some eighty or one hundred feet, affords a natural cavalier, upon which
a gun, en barbette, ranges over all the works ; under this mound,
on a level with the terreplein of the fort, is the old magazine, which
was screened on the exposed side by a substantial wall of puska ; but
a new one has now been built in a far worse position, immediately
to the south of the cavalier ; and from the mound, two copious springs
flow, affording an abundant supply of dehcious water for any garrison.
There are two gateways of the usual native construction, with the
road-way turning at right angles shortly after entering the place ;
the main one is to the south, the approach to it steep and well flanked
by the tracing of the works on the left. The other gateway is

[ 22 ]

immediately opposite to this to the north ; its construction is similar,
but it has no flanking defences. The approach to it is comparatively
easy^ and large masses of conglomerate lying scattered in the immediate
vicinity, would afford cover from which to keep down any fire which
might be opened on a party approaching the gate. Within the fort
and between the two gates is the bazar, containing at present some
thirty Baniah's shops. The quarters of the garrison are ranged
round the ramparts, and there are two extensive granaries, besides a
comfortable residence for the Governor. Outside the woi-ks, all round
this forti*ess, six or eight feet from the bottom of the wall, the hill has
been scarped perpendicular for a height of about eight feet ; it is
probable, however, that rain will before long smooth this down to a
more natural slope. The evident weak points of the place are. — First,
the long necked eastern bastion, which has no flanking support of any
description and could itself develop but a feeble fire ; immediately in
front of it on the opposite side of a deep ravine, and distant six
hundred yards, are two mounds affording excellent positions for
breaching this bastion ; while undulations in the slope of the hill give
good cover for the approach of light troops to within easy range. —
Second, a general want of flanking defences along the whole of the
northern face ; and lastly, the large masses of conglomerate already
referred to, which are scattered about the base of the works along the
whole of the western face, where a detached round tower and postern
have lately been made.

Such is the present state of this fortress, which without going back
to the days of Sultan Baber, who stormed and carried it after great loss,
has obtained a world-wide reputation from the gallant defence
conducted by Captain Craigie (now Lt.-Col. Craigie, C. B.) who in
command of a small garrison of young sepoys, held this position then
only covered by old dilapidated works, temporarily patched with sand
bags, against the combined Toran Ghilzies ; and finally when assaulted,
hurled them back at the point, of the bayonet, and obliged them to
retire leaving one hundred and forty bodies stretched on the glacis,
w^ithout a single casualty in its truly illustrious garrison !

49. Having thus given a slight sketch of the character of the

Characters of the feudal Amir's SOUS, and of the forc^ at their

"obility. disposal, it is hardly necessary ibr me to

enter at any great length into the details of the petty factions compos-

[ 23 ]

ing the mass of the feudal nobility of Affghanistan, especially as it is
composed of names with which Government must be already well
acquainted, and characters which may be individually and collectively
described as men, whose actions cannot be calculated upon, but who
are ready to grasp at any chance of bettering their own condition ;
obedient through fear alone ; treacherous by nature ; and pohtical
schemers from their birth.

50. At the head of this list may be placed the brothers of the

i^irdars Pir Muhammad ^^"' ' *^^ surWving children of Poyendah
Khan.Sultan Muhammad Khan Khan: — namely, SirdarsPir Muhammad
and Eahmdil Xhan. t t-. , t

Khan,bultan Muhammad Khan and Rahmdil

Khan. The two first are both older than the Amir. Pir ]\Iuham-
mad Khan has always been a money-making screw ; and yet blindly
led into any scheme by Sirdar Sultan Muhammad Khan, who has an
innate love for low intrisfue and falsehood ; without the couragfe to
carry out his own ideas, he is for ever leading other people into
mischief, and disowning his own counsels; and with whatever party
he allies himself, he is sure sooner or later to deceive them ; in short
I cannot better describe the man than as "monstrum nulla virtute
redein})tum." Old age is now creeping fast upon him, and he confines
himself much to his harem, where he has contrived to immure
upwards of a hundred wives.

51. Sirdar Eahmdil Khan whom I have already mentioned as
liaving gone, with the Amir's consent, to Teheran, is said to bo
afflicted with a loathsome skin disease, which renders his life a
torment, and would prevent his taking any active part in the govern-
ment ; he has a large family of his own, and there are some thirty
nephews, children of the other Kandahari brotliers, all of whom may
be supposed still to retain some little influence in western Affghanis-
tan. Among these. Sirdar Muhammad Siidik Khan, who died in
Cabul the other day, stood out prominently as a villain of the blackest
dye, as shown in his conduct towards General Ferrier.

52. Sirdar Slier Ali Khan, son of the late Mihrdil Khan, is said

to be intellii'ent and active, and is now the
Sirdar Sher Ali Khau. . . .*= ^ c- t c ^

prime minister of Sirdar Sultan Jan in

Herat. The whole of the Kandahar family have long shown a strong

inclination to be on friendly terms with their Persian neighbours ; and

on the Amir's death^ no doubt many of them will bo found intriguing

with that power.

[ 24 ]

53. Of the remaining families of the Amir's brothers, perhaps

r,. , o, ,11- -r-, Sirdar Shamsh-ud-din Khan and his brothers

bu-clar Shanish-ud-din Khan.

(sons of the late Muhammad Amm Khan)
are the best known ; they are kept at Cabul on allowances in cash, and
as may easily be fancied are anything but contented with their lot.
Sirdar Shamsh-ud-din Khan gained a character for enterprise among
our officers far above his desert ; and Affghans say that bis brother
(since dead,) was the master-spirit during the war with us ; this family
may be safely put down as ready for any change.

54. Next in importance come Shahdowlah Khan and his brothers,

„, , , , , ^, sons of the late Sirdar Muhammad Zaman

ohahaowlah Ivhan.

Khan ; this branch of the Barakzaie family
have been in difficulties ever since the murder of Shah Sujah-ul-mulk
by the late Sujah-ud-dowlah; and Shahdowlah Khan, now a refugee
with the Persians, may be considered in perpetual exile from his own
country ; he was put in charge of Shahrukhs while the Persians occupied
that district, but was obliged to quit on the latter being overthrown
by the Turkomans.

55. Sirdars Abdul Ghyas Khan and Abdul Ghanuni Khan (sons of

^. , ., , , ^, the late Nawab Zabar Khan) are perhaps

Sirdar Abaia Ghyas L.han, . . .

in greater favor with the Amir than any

other of his nephews ; the first named is a great favorite and follower

of the heir-apparent, and is said to be intelligent and active.

56. Sirdar Muhammad Asman Khan and his brother (children of
Sirdar Muhammad Asman ^^^ ^^^^ Nawab Sammand Khan) are always

•^^^^°- to be found about the Amir^s Court, and

seldom leave Cabul ; they receive liberal cash allowances and appear
contented. The brother's names are Gholam Kadir Khan, Muhammad
Ghous Khan and Gholam Sadik Khan ; he himself has three sons, all
by separate mothers, namely : Muhammad Sarwar Khan, Muhammad
Hussein Khan and Gholam Muayyid-ud-din Khan.

57. It is now almost in vain to look for families and men of
influence in Affghanistan apart from the Amir's immediate relatives,
for they have been gradually but almost entirely swept away by the
Amir's policy. The principal difficulties in the path of all rulers of
this country appear to have ever been the smallness of the revenue
which can be collected in comparison with the number of chiefs wIjo
have to keep up their state and live upon that revenue ; and the

[ 25 ]

Barakzais unblushiiigly affirm that as the country cannot support
both rich and poor, the latter must be sacrificed to uphold the
former.

58. xinother great obstacle to good government has always been
the power and influence possessed by each feudal chief, whose
authority in many instances equalled that of royalty itself; and as
formerly the army of Affghanistan was entirely composed of the Ulus
or clansmen of these chiefs, who were supposed to hold their lands in
jagir on conditions of service, but who were most frequently found
to go over to the enemy in the day of need, a counterpoise became
indispensable ; and the Amir commenced to put together liis regular
army. The gradual reduction of the power of the feudal lords, and
the transfer of it as far as possible into the hands of his own sons and
relatives, have therefore been the prominent features of the Aniii-'s
policy, and in no case has this been more marked than in that of the
once powerful Ghilzies (see Appendix B.).

59. The sons of the infamous and once powerful Amin-ullah Khan,

Hafiz-ullah, Nasar-ullah and Eahm-ullah
Amin-ullah Khaa and sons.

Khans are now but petty agents to the sons

of the Amir in Losfar ; that chief himself was smothered in a bathin<r-

r-ooiu, under a pillow, by the hand of Sirdar Gholam Hydar Khan

himself, shortly after the Amir's return from Hindustan.

60. Muhammad Shah Khan, oiice the head of the western Ghil-

zies, after a fruitless struggle of years

Muliammad Shah Khan. . i • p i a • i

agamst the authority of the Amir, has at last
succumbed, and lives a prisoner at large, though under strict surveil-
lance, at Cabul. His coteinporary JMallik Shahdad (son of Maizzu)
another of the same clan, still continues in the strongholds of Tuggao to
find shelter, and to defy the etibrts of the Cabul government either to
capture him or to restrain his lawless pursuits ; although they have
placed MuUik Bahrain, his nephew and rival, in possession of his
lands and chiefship.

61. Ikram Khan, better known as Ikram Jan, and his brothers,

sons of Abd-ullali Khan Achakzai, have
Ikram Klian Achakzai.

been hunted out ot the country, and are

now refugees in Herat, and it is said have difficulty in finding

subsistence.

E

[ '-^(^ ]

62. Two old names still remain prominent in the city of Cabul,

Ilafiz-ji and Khan Sharin Khan; but the
^ ^"•'^' Amir has a perfect control over both, and

at the same time finds them too useful to be put aside: although
he himself cannot quit the capital without taking them with him.
The first owes his influence chiefly to the holy character of his elder
brother Amir-ji, who is looked on as a saint by the Suni population
of Cabul and the Kohistan, who are proud to call themselves his
disciples. Hafiz-ji makes the most of this feeling in the people to
further his own political views. Some say that he is a staunch follower
of the heir apparent, while others as positively assert that he is only
watching his opportunity to befriend Sirdar Muhammad Afzal Khan. He
is at heart a bitter enemy of the British Government, and had a large
share in the excitement got up at the capital, which Sirdar Muhammad
Azim Khan so opportunely put down.

63. Khan Sharin Khan never dabbles now in political waters,

but exerts all his influence to keep together

Khan Sliarin Elian. ^ , i • t^ n i -? . • -t

and strengthen his Kassaibash taction ; and

it is impossible to guess what course he will take on the Amir's death.

In short, men dare not and will not express their opinions, (if they

have formed any), regarding the probable tendencies of political parties ;

but as few men are so intimately acquainted with Affghan habits and

customs, as the old Amir himself, whose whole soul is now bent on

furthering the interests of Sirdar Gholam Hydar Khan ; wherever the

iron hand of power is now found pressing, it may be safely regarded

as an undeviating indicator of danger hereafter.

64. Of the heir-apparent's immediate followers I need only here

mention Nazir Na'im, who is without excep-
Nazir Na'im. ^ • ,i ,■ ^ ^ i • -,-,

tion the most influential oi his adherents.

This man, as well as Abdul Eahman Khan (son of Mowladad Khan)

were in their youth engaged in trade as petty agents in the city of

Cabul, and from their activity and general aptitude for business, soon

attracted the attention of the late Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan who

took them both into his service : where Nazir Na'im's shrewdness soon

became conspicuous, and on the death of his master, the Amir took him

under his own protection and subsequently made him over to the

heir-apparent. He is generally respected and even looked up to by

many of the Barakzai family.

[ 27 ]

65. Having thus lightly sketched the principal characters which

Effects of Barakzai rule on stand out on the stage of Affghau public

the couutry, generally. ||fp^ J ^^^ j^o^ gknce at the effects of

Barakzai rule of late j'ears on the people generally. As might be
expected from the needy and tyrannical despotism of the Amir's sons,
at a distance from his control, quiet and industrious communities are
ground to the dust, and their rich and once cultivated lands fast
turning to wilderness ; while more turbulent races hold their own by
sheer force ; mercantile classes are ruinously and arbitrarily taxed, and
citizens under the cloak of municipal legislation, are fleeced of their
substance without gaining security in their homes, but on the contrary
their houses are frequently robbed and families dishonored by a
licentious soldiery — constantly on the verge of mutiny and let loose on
the community to make up the arrears of their own pay so unjustly
withheld from them. Add to this, the fact of all classes being blindly
priest-ridden by crafty, bigoted and supercilious ecclesiastics, and a
true picture is drawn of the present condition of the Affghau fixed
population. Such is the sad conviction which my every-day experience
of the country forces on me, although very different from the im-
pressions at first made on a stranger's mind. On his introduction to
Affghanistan, its chiefs and its people, he is naturally carried away
by the apparently frank, open-hearted, hospitable, though sometimes
rough manners of all around him in this theatrical region ; but he very
soon discovers that, as a Pathan friend of mine, when speaking of
Doranies, more truly described the real Affghan character, they '' are in
outward appearance and profession, the most religious, orthodox, and
just of Muhammadans, but, really in practice, without religion or faith,
and examples of oppressors to the human race.''
Trade. 66. For particulars of the state of trade, sec Appendix E.

67. Justice in ordinary cases is supposed to be administered by a
Kazi, or chief Magistrate, assisted by
Muftis and Muta'assibs, (the latter a species
of detective officer) and regulated by laws, which if rightly acted on
would be tolerably equitable, but which are made respectable cloaks
for extortion, to support the rich at the expense of the poor. Wliat
else can be said of a system which admits of a Kazi taking a lease of
the fines of his office by paying so much into the Government
Treasury? The Mullahs again, are the inspectors of public and
E 2

[ 28 ]

private morals^ and are assisted by the Muta'assibs. While the stranger,

peasant, or unprotected citizen, is mulcted of his little all, or publicly

exposed riding backwards on a donkey with his face blacked, for the

breaking of a fast, we find the most unnatural and disgusting crimes

debasing all society unchallenged, from the prince expectant of a

throne to the lowest menial privileged as a Government servant.

6S. The chief aim of Affghan provincial rulers is, not to find

themselves at the head of contented and
Affghan provincial rnlei's.

prosperous communities, but to extract from

them as much coin as can possibly be got hold of ; and year after year,

with a diminishing population, and more impoverished country, it is

marvellous how they still contrive to squeeze out the same amount of

revenue. The following sketch of the history of the division, and

farming of the Kandahar district, may be taken as a fair specimen of

the agriculturist's prospects in Affghanistan generally.

69. When Nadir Shah over-ran Herat and Kandahar, he is said to

have exported eighteen thousand Ghilzies
with their families to Teheran, and to have
distributed the lands of Kandahar among his Persian followei's. The
division was made into eight thousand shares, each of which required
about eighteen " Kharwars" of seed (equal to one hundred Company's
maunds) .

70. In Ahmad Shah's time a fresh distribution of these lands took
place into twelve thousand ploughs ; of which four thousand were
restored to their original Ghilzie owners, and the remainder given away
as follows : —

To the Achakzais of Dosang and Mushian, 700

Allizais of Zamindawar, 800

Nuzaies of Dehras, Kaddini, Garmsil, Khunjakuk

and Khuslikinakhud, 1500

Maku and Khagwani, 500

Barakzais of Maru and Kandahar, 1500

Allyzais of Arghandao, 1500

Popalzaies ofNesh, Ghowk, Arghasan and Daman, 1500

An Ahmad Shahi share (also called Tawili) requires three Kharwars

of seed (or about thirty maunds) and the revenue on each was formerly

fixed at the amount of seed ; or in other words, for every maund of

grain sown, government received a maund as revenue ; besides ten

[ 29 ]

Kandahari rupees a share, in lieu of grass and stubble (tliis last too
was called " Kahboh").

7] . These rates continued in force till the " Kandahari brothers''
arrived at power, when they made the following revision. In
Khushkinakhud, Sangsir, Khunjakuk, Pangali and Argandhao, which
contained in the aggregate three thousand three hundred Tawili ploughs,
or three hundred ten Nadari, the revenue was left alone on account
of the power of the tribes holding these districts, but the remainder of
the country was taxed according to the water consumed, and each
village calculated as equal to so many karezahs and fifty rupees
charged per Karez. These, however, vary in every village, so that some
cultivators are charged double what their neighbours pay. Water is
not generally supplied from karezahs as the name would imply, but
from canals brought from the Arghandao. In most villages the
average supply of water per plough is calculated at as much as will
flow through an aperture an inch square, which is sufficient to admit
of each field being watered once in seven days. Water from karezahs,
where these exist, is distributed at the same rate ; but the owner of
the karez supplying water to fields not his own, exacts one-half the
produce of such irrigation, paying half the government demand.

71. A. In these rates, several modifications have been introduced
by Sirdar Gholam Hydar Khan, chiefly for his own advantage ; and in
the height of the hot weather, when water to the cultivator is worth
almost any money, the Sirdar frequently puts all the water in a canal
up to auction, and has been known to realize as much as seventy
Kandahari rupees for one day's supply of water to a promising vinery.
Such a system must shortly run its course, for no country however rich
its soil, could repay the cost of irrigation at such rates.

72. Most villages in Kandahar are farmed annually to contrac-
tors, who, with the assistance of soldiers, take all they can get in kind
from the inhabitants. Some villages are given away in lieu of pay
to Sirdars and chiefs, but one custom prevails in all. The government
share of produce is supposed to be one-half; the remainder belongs to
the owner of the land, or Daftari. If he employs others to cultivate for
him, but supplies bullocks and seed, he takes | of this, leaving the
remaining ^ for the actual cultivator (called Bozgash) ; but if the
latter furnishes bullocks and seed, one-half of the Daftari's share,
equal to j of the whole produce, becomes his.

[ 80 ]

73. Besides the land-tax, a poll-tax of five Kandahari rupees is

collected from all but Pathans, and this tax is
Taxes.

common throughout Affghanistan ; Hindoos

in towns or country pay a separate tax called " Juz," which is said to

be specially set apart for the expenses of the Amir's cuisine, as

Muhammadan digestion is supposed to improve when pampered on

Hindoo poverty.

74 . If the payment of these taxes guaranteed the cultivator pro-
tection from further exactions he would he well off, and contented ; but
after this burden has been cleared off, shoals of hungry soldiers, and
followers of chiefs are let loose on the villages, and gather for them-
selves what they can pick up.. Not unfrequently while the ci'ops are
still standing, or during a season of drought and famine, while the
farmer is entertaining some faint hopes that he will be able to secure
grain sufiicient to preserve himself and family froin imminent starva-
vation, all these are suddenly blighted by the appearance of a host of
sowars with spare " Yabus," who, without farther ceremony enter the
field, clear off the crop, and cai-ry it away to fatten some Sirdar's
horses which are out of condition. Such and like arbitrary exactions
amount in the aggregate to quite as much as the fixed revenue. The
result is, that in the immediate vicinity of towns, and close to the ruler,
the agriculturist continues to till the land ; but in many parts of the
coimtry you approach large and apparently flourishing villages, enter
them, and no human voice greets or curses you there, as the case may
be. Once rich vineyards are dried up, and all around is desolation.
This is especially the case in the Kandahar district, where every fresh
change of rulers has only brought increased taxation, until the popula-
tion has been decimated ; and tax-gatherers enraged at not being able
to squeeze money out of mud walls, have seized and sold into slavery
the last wretched inhabitants of a once prosperous and influential
village,

74. The remaining population ai'e no longer the hospitable
Affghans mentioned by so many travellers. At the very sight of a
stranger the villager of Kandahar now slinks away. Ask for water, and
he tells you that he has no vessel to offer it in -, — judging from past
experience that if so much of a symptom of prosperity were visible,
it must lead to future ruin.

75. The chiefs certainly show hospitality, but how ? at the

[ 81 ]

expense of all around tliem; they order everytliiug, and pay for

nothing ; and yet even among the veriest beggars, there still ma}'^ be

traced a little of the old leaven of intense family pride. I know an

instance of a man who, with scarce a rag on his back, with his wife

and children in a like predicament, riding on a half-starved donkey,

and they themselves without food to eat, were met by a Moula'sy and

asked out of sheer compassion who they were, and where going ?

when he haughtily answered, " Who are you, you dog, to interrogate

an Achakzai, the best blood of the Dur-i-Durans ?"

76. Of the amount of population in a country like Aifghanistan,

it is always difficult to obtain even an
Population. . r i -i i

approximate estimate ; tor while on the one

hand few men in the country have ever given the subject a thought,

and truth is rarely uttered unless by accident ; on the other hand

exaggeration and pure fiction are always ready on an Affghan's lips.

I have therefore had considerable trouble in preparing the following

incomplete table ; in general it will be found approximating the truth ;

but if anything, the numbers are rather over than under the mark.

Some few of the totals I have verified by comparison with the amount

of poll-tax levied.

Barakzais, ... ... ... ... ... ... 08,750

Dowlatzais,
Matatkzais,
Bamezais, . . ,
Hussainzais,
Ismailzais,
Bashazaies, ..
Babakzais,
Mangalzais,
Bostanzais, . .
Shumarazais,
Kutbazais, . .
Massozais, . .
Sirkanzais, . .
Hussainzais,
Khallazais, . .
Pizais,
Daudzais,

30,000
20,000
10,250
14,500
12,500

9,500
17,000
22,500
47,500

2,500
20,000
25,000
10,000
28,000
24,500
25,000
100,000

[ 32 ]

Dizzais,
Hydarzais, . . .
Moku,

Khagwaui, . . ,
Acliakzais, . . .
Ghilzies,
Kohistanies,

55,000
30,000
5,000
10,000
74,000
200,000
99,800

Tajaks of Kolidamun, Grhazni, Cabul, &c., . . . 100,000

Kassalbaslies, 30,000

Mixed population of towns, ... ... ... 65,000

Povindiahs, 30,000

Momands, Sliiniwaries and Tugmanies, ... ... 1,50,000

Hazaralis undei" the Amir, ... ... ... ... 1,20,000

Total population of AfFglianistan,... ... ... 1,4,56,800

Add Mr. Elpliinstoue's estimated population of

'Balkh, 1,000,000

Total of the Amir's subjects, 2,4,56,800

For further details of many of these tribes, see Appendices
B. C. and E.

77. The foreign policy of the Amir may be described in a few

words. He and most of his sons have
Foreign policy of the Amir. .

evidently made up their minds to maintain

amicable relations with the British Government, and nothing but gross

mismanagement will now upset this determination.

78. With Belochistan, the Amir is cordial, considering that state

as an ally of ours : and Affghans in conver-
With Belochistan, . , , ,

sation, generally speak now-a-days of Quetta

as our frontier.

79. The Amir's relations with Persia are marked by undisguised

hatred ; and his policy towards her coupled

With Persia. . .

with a certain amount of temerity; but his
proverbial caution also occasionally oozes out, and the late mission of
Aladad Khan Popalzai to Herat, for the express purpose of hearing
from Sirdar Sultan Jan the bearings of the policy of the different
Eui'opcan powers represented at Teheran, leads me to be quite prepared

[ 33 ]

to liecar one of these days, that the old ruler has opened commuuica-
tions with either France, Turkey, or Russia, or perhaps, with all three,
not that he sees any immediate advantage in such a move, but as a
precautionary measure.

80. It is difficult to define the present relations between the

Amir and the new Herat government.
With Herat. ... .

That he is using his utmost influence to

detach Sirdar Sultan Jan from Persia is undoubted, but what the real

ideas of the latter fickle spirit may be on this subject, is as dubious

as his character. To advance his own interests at the expense of

integrity, appears his game, for we find him in the same breath

extolling the English and expressing his wish to be on the best of

terms with them, and yet declaring to his subjects that he will hold no

intercourse with unbelievers ! Again, while tlie evening is spent in

abusing the Amir, and inditing flowery cringing epistles to the Shah

of Persia, cursing the infidel Shiahs, and protesting that his filial

affection for his uncle cannot be obliterated by aught on this side tho

grave, " a slave of tho Amir's he was born and will remain to the day of

his death."

81. With Turkistan, Kunduz, and other independent adjoin-

ing states, the Amir pursues but one policy ;
In Turkistan. .

to take all he can irom them, keep it, and

look out for more.

Northwards he meets tho confines of Bokhara, and last year tho

Khan of that country, deemed it expedient
With Bokhara. . ^ . \, „• • i ,

to enter mto a friendly alliance with the

Ruler of Cabul ; but a leopard will change his spots ere an Asiatic,
but more especially an Affghan, can forget or forgive an injury ; and
the Amir only requires an opportunity to avenge the insutting treat-
ment he received at the hands of Nasr-ullah Khan, when driven to
seek his hospitality.

82. I now feel myself called on to express (although I do so with
the greatest diffidence) my opinion with regard to the policy to be for tho
future adopted towards AfFghanistan and in central Asia generally.
As might have been expected, the accounts of the mutiny in tho
Bengal army have spread in an exaggerated form from one end of this
great continent to the other, and crafty politicians have not failed to
make use of it, for their own purposes. Russian influence weighs down

[ 34 ]

the balance against us in Persia, and the scales in Herat are thereby-
affected ; Muscovite policy has now reached Kokan ; Mongolia is her
province, and her legions are rapidly closing on China. Affghanistan
therefore stands isolated, as the only country free of the Russian taint,
and to keep her so, should be our great aim ; but how to attain such a
result, naturally becomes the question, and one on which I am fully
aware that many of our ablest diplomatists have greatly differed. My
own conviction is, that this object will be best attained by having as
little to say to Affghans as possible, beyond maintaining friendly
and intimate intercourse with the de facto government : by never, on
any occasion interfering with the internal politics of the country, nor
assisting any particular faction, but honestly leaving Affghans to manage
their own affairs in the way which suits them best. We should endea-
vour to prevent the interference of Persia, or any other power, in these
matters ; and be careful that all our political agents on the frontier are
fully instructed in the views of Government and carrying out a common
policy; for the slightest deviation in the opinions expressed by these
officers, will be eagerly caught at by designing intriguers in the country,
as a proof of sinister designs on our part, and to work out their own
ends.

83. Unless under the most pressing danger to Affghanistan, and
at the spontaneous and urgent demand of that government itself, no
proposition involving the deputing of British Officers into the country,
should, for a moment, be entertained ; for, (after the example of Burnes)
all such missions will ever be looked on with the greatest suspicion, no
matter how able the officers to be so employed, or what their object.
If the Rulers really wish for the services of such men, they will be
quick enough in asking for them, for modesty has never been an
Affghan weakness.

84. Of all schemes that England has ever undertaken, none have
cost her proportionately more, or have been altogether so unsuccessful,
as our attempts at establishing an independent state in Herat. Two
wars, — the first the most disastrous on record, — together with an expen-
diture of some 17 millions of money, have been the result of this project ;
and the effect produced is, that while a Persian nominee, supported by
Persian money and Russian counsels, acknowledges in words that
Herat is independent, (although he himself openly once a week con-
fesses the sovereignty of Persia by having the " khutba" read in the

[ 35 ]

name of the Shah, and sees two provinces of Herat occupied by the
Persians) we are content. Surely it requires no demonstration to
prove that a continuance of such a policy would be an error. At the
same time I am convinced that had we, when masters of the Persian
shores, dictated our own terms, and insisted on Herat being given over
once for all to the Affghans, and their Ruler the Amir, the result would
have been far more satisfactory.

85. But after all, the question is, what is the real value of the in-
dependence of Herat to us ? Of course, had that state possessed the
vitality necessary to struggle for its own independence, it would have
been our interest to assist her in a moderate way, and thus to stave off
the evil day as long as possible ; but when we find Herat ultimately
the prey of Persians and Affghans, surely it is mere self-deception to
suppose that it can ever present the slightest obstacle to a Russian
invasion of India, whenever it may suit that power to enter on such an
undertaking ; and the position of that fortress, upwards of 500 miles
in advance of our border, precludes the possibility of our placing a
British garrison in it which is now the only sure way of securing the
place against all comers.

86. There are but three routes in this direction, by which an \
army could possibly move towards Hindustan, even were Persia and
Russia to make common cause in such au enterprize.

1st. From Kirman through Siestan and Kandahar.

87. This is the route which was followed by Mir Veis at the
head of his Ghilzio and Affghan troops, about the commencement of
the last centuiy, when he attacked Persia. The want of supplies, and
arid nature of a portion of the country traversed, would prevent tliis
line ever being used by a regular invading army, though light Irregular
horse might go by it. Further particulars of this and the following
route will be found in Appendix G.

88. 2nd Route. If instead of following the above route, a force
should move by Nyband and Birjun, more water would be found,
and at the latter place it joins the road from Yezd, via Tabbas, a
sketch of which is laid down in Kennier's map of Persia ; aiul this is a
line which has frequently been adopted by Persian troojis, and is the
direct approach from Yezd on Siestan and Fairah.

89. ord Route. This is the direct road from Herat to Kand£.har,
which includes withhi the zoue of its operations, all the different routes

F 2

[ 3G ]

concentrating on Farrah, and Gharisk, and radiating from Herat to
Marw, Sliahrukhs, Masliad, Naisliapur and KliofF ; and this was the
line contemplated by Napoleon, and which, since the days of the Mace-
donian Alexander, has been so often trod by armies in both directions.
The feasibility of this route is beyond doubt, and the resources upon it
have been so frequently detailed by men conversant with the subject,
that I need not here repeat them. By no other line can India be ap-
proached, save by an army crossing the Hindu Kush, or passing
Cabul, the difficulties of which are beyond calculation.

90. It will be remarked that all these routes lead via Kandahar
on the Bolan. It therefore strikes me that our obvious course now is
to discard all idea of Herat being an outwork of Hindustan; and in-
stead of squandering our resources on the doubtful friendship of distant
native governments, to fix on some really defensible line over which
we can have some control.

91. Providence has blessed us with a strong line of frontier,
covered by rugged and barren hills, through which there are but a
limited number of passes, by which any army could approach India ;
and the Military art teaches us, that the best position for the defence of
such ground is, on our own side of the passes, just where an army must
debouche on the plain. Here then is our true position ; which we are
of course in common prudence, bound to strengthen in every possible
way. Of the nature and extent of the preparations required, it is not
for me to speak, as they would be determined by the General and En-
gineer Officers entrusted with the defence of the frontier ; but the most
important and first to be attended to is, the opening up of our commu-
nications with the real base of all Military operations in India, the
sea; and connecting these distant jDoints with it by rails and steamers.

92. With Peshawar, Kohat and Sindh in our possession, and the
communication with our Indian provinces open by rail, and steamers on
the Indus, and a strong force of Europeans located in healthy canton-
ments all over the country — supported by a well organized native
army, I consider that we should really have the keys of India in our
own pockets, and be in a position to lock the doors in the face of all
enemies — white or black.

93. At the same time I would strongly advocate the carrying
out a conciliatory policy towards our hill neighbours : — but bearing in
mind the real Pathan character, whom the touch of money only renders

[ 37 ]

more rapacious, who will swear to anything for filthy lucre, but only
respect that power which shows ability to punish with the one hand
and reward with the other. Our Peshawar authorities have, ever since
the Punjab became ours, pursued a policy towards the Afridi tribes,
the fruits of which are already ripening, and which, in a few more
years, must lead to the happiest results. The district of Tehrali at the
head of the Barrah river, is an independent country, where the prover-
bially lawless clans of the Khybar have their mountain homes, to
which they retire during the summer months, descending again in winter
to the lower ranges for forage for their cattle, and to escape the rigour
of the winter blasts. These tribes are allowed free access to our terri-
tory so long as they behave themselves, but the moment an individual
is found to have abused this liberty, his whole tribe is shut out until the
offender is given up or a heavy tine paid. These Afridis now enlist
freely into our frontier regiments, and, when taken young, make obe-
dient good soldiers. These tribes now consider our service as the great
field for all the young aspirants of their clans, and are day by day
being drawn closer to us, and must eventually see thatthcy really have a
common interest with us ; when (especially as we have the sons and
nephews of their chiefs as native officers in our corps) they may be
expected to join heartily with us in the defence of the Khybar should
any enemy ever attempt that line of road.

93. It is very remarkable that although the Amir of Cabul tries
to persuade us that these tribes are his subjects, still he has not a single
Afridi of any sort in his service, and they repudiate the idea and
say, " Do we pay the Amir tribute, or he to us ?" alluding to the allow-
ances the tribes receive for closing the Khybar.

94. In conclusion, I would beg respectfully to point to the pecu-
liar and difficult position of the mission entrusted to me, in extenuation
of the incompleteness of much of the information here offijred. We
were the first Englishmen who had visited the country since our occu-
pation of it, and, as such, have been watched with jealous suspicion ;
and if our task was considered delicate and dangerous before wo
started, the course of events in our own provinces has not tended to
smooth our path. It has been our constant study in accordance with
the instructions of Government, to impress on the minds of all around
us, that our Government has not the slightest wish to interfere in any
way, either with the country, its rulers, or its people, and have

[ 38 ]

laboured^ I trust not altogether unsuccessfully, to convince the xifFghan
RulerSj that our assistance rendered during the Persian war, is an ear-
nest of our good-will towards them ; and that all we require in return is
their confidence. To avoid giving cause for suspicion, we have been
obliged to forego channels for gaining information which might other-
wise have been available.

The arrival of Colonel Taylor's mission at Herat, also circumscribed
our field of enquiry and confined our gleanings to ground which had
already been gone over by Burnes, Conolly, Leech and Ferrier, and
whose mouldy relics of antiquity even have been long since grubbed
up by a Rawliuson.

95. I cannot, however, close this paper without requesting you to
bring to the notice of the chief commissioner, the valuable and ready
assistance I have ever received from those officers associated with me.

96. The character of Lieutenant P. S. Lumsden as an ojSicer, is
already well known, and I need only add that on this occasion he has
displayed his usual zeal, tact and ability ; and to him I am indebted
for the beautiful map of the country between our border and Ghazni,
which will be found in Appendix A.

97. In Assistant Surgeon H. W. Bellew (whose interesting report
is hereto annexed) the Government have an officer, zealous in his
calling, a studious and able Hnguist, and one whose kind and affable
manners have gained for him the respect and esteem of all classes, and
from whom, on all occasions, I have received most ready assistance.

98. Of Nawab Faujdar Khan's services, as our representative at
Cabul, during the past eventful year, I have some hesitation in speak-
ing, as they must have already attracted your attention ; but it would
be unjust in me not to record my appreciation of them. His position
has been a most difficult one, requiring judgment, tact, and temper ;
and on all occasions he has proved himself quite equal to the situation,
and deserves some signal mark of Government approbation.

99. Gholam Sarwar Khan Khagwani, who accompanied me to
Kandahar, has, at all times, rendered his best services to the state, and
merits the highest approbation ; and I would strongly recommend his
being handsomely rewarded.

100. For the escort of guides and Multanis, horse and foot,
who accompanied the mission, I would also crave some mark of (go-
vernment approbation; for they have behaved nobly under most trying

[ 39 ]

circumstances, and in bearing, without a murmur, tlie almost daily
taunts and jeers of a bigoted Aflfglian priestliood, who took a malicious
delight in trying to curse these faithful men out of our service ; and
I would suggest that the amount of 18 months batta given, not as
batta, but as a present from Government, would be a substantial reward,
as well as a sort of compensation to those men who, by volunteering
to go to Kandahar, lost opportunities of gaining promotion and rewards
which fell to the lot of their more fortunate brethren who did not come
forward.

I have, &c.
(Signed) H. B. LUMSDEN, Major,

Late in charge of Kandahar Mission.

APPENDICES,

JK^''

W'l'l-

55'

K'!' ;;uK''rF:

.!larch

dMGZ:-

70

'..t'lUag* trf Tacaa gt

/''

^' ^' .^^r^i

'%

^kritJ, fJ,r \urudJfoh htuuje from tiu ViUagt i Hah U hiU^

, ma^ hi rcu^hi* t4ii/naUd hr

NOTE

7'Ji/ yeiifrit/. tlcvaiiaif ut' fJie ivujjJry ihruuah whuh^ Out reuit. pa^n
iJu foUj'titni) .■Uliiiiilrs: cnlaiioh^ lf;<m liu builutff pewM ef taitr,.

Kei'iiun f-'crl aJiawL 6.000 Fat, ahrvt ih» m<v

MbfkJul^fHirryabJ 7.6SS D'

ShooturgurdoMieait ll.*6Z D'

Khoshie fm legurj IpS I/'

ffydurkhel 7^37 1

Shere£Um/t feus 9fi00>J/'' Gtrria^

nhanU 7,726}

Tht pv«UuJnB m' t'abui and Ghtamt, in- tin^rm^ tlutiJt. aJid «/tfu pf-ru^n ef^f^^bOtat ik
from Ihe Surviyvr Gavroli ^ap uf Aff^MfaMan, ( SuH^ t JtHtf ic J huhi an3. du. CivUrj btbnan,
i/bnrvaiumtimavniudf/' the Ketiroutv ShdcK mode in. aS6 Ij- liod'^ tiamtU Stn^ 2s^wutf» AiJ ,
7'fci A'tatral Tutl s}tattina tTuwt A* i

MurYV^LJ^JiVM''^' ;^u

Dfiwn or. r^tcne by KomoTio'ii [lass, iui "LiOi

APPENDIX A.

The Pinur Route from Kohat to Cahul and Ghazui. The distances
as far as the Kurram fort, measured with a perambulator, hij
Lieut. Oarnett, Engineers, November , 1857. The remainder are
aj)proxiniate.

First staffs fron Kohat to NasratTcliel, six miles. — No permanent road yet
completed ; the old road is over an undulating cultivated country ; crossing
the drainage which runs into the Tori or Bara, to the left of the road ; many
watercourses in which would impede the march of artillery unless previously
bridged or ramped : temporary bridges had been ei-ected for the passage of
the guns with the last Miranzai expedition, but this road of communication
will never be complete until permanent bridges are constructed. The road
passes the village of Muhammadzai at half way to Nasratkhel and at the
entrance of the pass to the Bezoti hills called " Ublan." The valley averages
from \\ to 2 miles breadth ; the hills to the nortli are in the possession of tlie
Bezoti and Ftrozkhel tribes of Arakzaies, and are barren, precipitous, and
rising up to a height of some 1500 feet above the level of the plain, but in
no place commanding the road.

Second stage. To Baiis, eleven miles. — For the first 3 miles the road is

similar to yesterday's march ; it then enters an

Total distance from Kohat to i. • <• • in i. i

Kail's 17 mil ■ extensive grove of sissu and mulberry trees known

as Fateh Shah's Ziarat, and crosses a stream that

comes down from Marai, a village of " Tappa" Samilzai, which pa3's revenue to

Government, this is one of the roads into the Samilzai valley, which is divided

from the llangu valley by a range of hills; another road into which strikes

off near the village of Ustarzi lower; the liills surrounding the Samilzai valley

(which is a complete amphitheatre) are held by the Sipah tribe nearest Kohat,

and the Bar Muhammad Khel and Shekhan Arakzaies. The road passes

through the lands of the villages of upper and lower Ustarzi which are the

most powerl'ul in the district, being able to turn out some 700 armed

men ; and at 9 miles from Kohat, the hills, closing in, leave only a gap for the

exit of the Bara ; this place which is on the boundary between the Kohat

and Hangu valley, is known as the Khojah Kiddar : over it on the left bank

of the stream the new road has been constructed. Although a work of great

difficulty it has been ably completed by the engineer officer in charge of tlie

same. At lOg miles from Kohat, crossed the Bara stream which has a general

course of from East to West, having its sources among the lofty mountains

G 2

[ 44 ]

inhabited by the Arakzaies, and enters our territories near the vilhige of
Shahukhel about 6 miles from Raiis, at which place you arrive immediately
after fording this stream. The Bara is very subject to sudden rises caused by
heavy falls of rain in the hills above, which render it at times impassable.
The village of Eaiis can turn out some 200 men and is surrounded by a low
wall ; there is no good position for an encampment in the portion of the valley
in which the village stands, owing to its small extent and to its being com-
manded from all sides either by the higher hills or by spurs from them. The
hills are covered with a dense jungle of Pelu (wild) and Phulah which renders
them very difficult for military operations, and even the comparatively level
grounds are but partially cultivated and covered with thick bushes. The Tori
stream, which comes down from the direction of Thagu, joins the Bara at Raiis.
Third stage. To Ilangu, eight miles. — Road good all the way. At about

2 miles from our last encampment (which was
Total distance from Kobat to ^^^^^ ^ ^^-^^ ^^ ^j,^ rpj^ ^j^^ ^f ^^^^. j^

Haugu 25 miles. ° ' ^

the village of Ibrahimzai on the opposite bank of

the Tori ; this is the general encamping ground, but owing to the land being
covered with wheat, the force yesterday halted half way between Rails and
this : the new line of road to which does not cross the stream, but passes over
a small Kothal close to our last camp, and then traverses a succession of nan-ow
valleys within matchlock range of the heights on either side, which are very
precipitous and difficult to be turned. At the 6th mile passed a more open val-
ley known as the Hangu-kas which is intersected by a ravine which collects all
the water from the Hangu springs. The camp was this day pitched on an
open cultivated plain in the centre of the valley (which is here about 2 or 3
miles broad and contrasts wonderfully with the country passed through since
leaving Kohat,) and at about a mile on the Kohat side of the village. The
village of Hangu is situated in the plain ; it contains about 500 houses, but
is a place of no strength ; the hills in its vicinity are high but not so rugged
as those hitherto met with, and covered with jungle.

N. B. There is a direct road running from Koliat to Ibrahimzai in a valley
parallel to the Thagu one, it passes through the villages of Bar and Jalia ; it
is a shorter route, but the line of the present new Hangu road was prefen-ed
as it passes near some of the largest villages in the Kohat district.

Fourth stage. To Tori, eight oniles. — The road during the whole course of

this day's march ascends the Hangu valley, and
Total distance from Eohat ^.^^^ ^^ ^^^^ j^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^ ^j^^ ^^^.. ^^
to Ton 33 mues. °

distance of from a half to one mile from it. On

the right of the road are low stony hills covered with brushwood, between which

are occasional patches of cultivation drained by numerous nullahs, which cross

[ 45 ]

the road in several places, (and at a distance from and between the low pro-
longations of high spurs.) Towards the north, near the summit, and on the
slopes of the Samana range of hills (averaging 2,500 feet elevation above the
plain and about 6,000 feet above the sea) are seen the towers and villages of
the Kabhiakhel and Akhel Arakzaies, who, in that direction, border on the
Bangashes of Miranzai. Although no road has been made beyond Thagu, yet
the beaten way over this tract was found very easy for wheeled carriages.
Passed the villages of Baggattu Kotarzai and Bar. As you approach Thagu
the valley opens out to a breadth of about three miles. Good encamping
ground was found at about a mile on the Thagu side of the valley (which
was about the only portion not under cultivation large enough for this pur-
pose) and in the vicinity of the Tori from whence water was procured. From
Thagu, a long and very narrow glen runs up from the south of the villao-e
via Ueh Umar Khan Shaletem Khel and Mammu Khel to Daud Shah ka
Bandah, where it meets the main road from Kohat to Bannu.

Fifth stage. To Kaii, eight miles. — The road similar to that in yesterday's

march, crossing at about five miles tlie Tori, now
Total distance from Kohat to i ^^ ^^^ c ^ • ■,

Kaii 41 miles. merely a small nil of water, in many places en-

tirely disappearing, and during the hottest season
of the year, water here must be dug for. The village of Kail is situated on a
naturally strong position at the end of a low ridge of stony hills, with pieces
of rock cropping out in several places ; it is surrounded by a wall of about
eight feet high, the greater portion of the village being ni a hollow, with
portions running up in every direction to the top of the ridge, on which
are placed two towers ; and towards the north there is a knoll with a house and
enclosure which commands the whole of the interior ; on the last runs the
bed of a nullah, beyond which is a small garhi now in ruins, from near to
which the whole of the interior is exposed to view. The village is elevated
above the general plain about 300 feet. The descent from it towards the
south is by several horizontal ridges on which about 20 tanks have been con-
structed to keep up a sufficient supply of water for the inhabitants and their
cattle as well as to afford a supply for the irrigation of a few fields, but only
during the cold season ; in the hot weather water is very scarce. To the
west, the descent is rather steep, and the ridge of hills on which the village
is constructed, runs off in a north westerly direction. The camp was pitched
at a spot near a very small spring called Dupa, the water from which runs
down into Upper Miranzai, as the lands of Kaii are on the water-shed line
between the Kumni river and the Kohat Bara. The liills above Thagu and
the Khattak hills generally in this part of the valley are more accessible,* and

* Sic in oriji.

[ 4.6 ]

covered with low jungle. The lands between Kali and the hills bordering

the valley on the South were entirely under cultivation, displaying one sheet

about three or four miles long from east to west by about two or three miles

broad. On this day's march, after leaving the lands of Thagu, we passed a

large village called Muhammad Khoja to the left of the road and situated

immediately under the hills.

Sixth stage. To Nariol, six milfs. N. B. a force going to Kurram icould

leave Nariol to the right and march on to Dar-
Total distance from Kobat to 7 t r. -7 /> t" • ' Ti. • l.

Nariol 47 miles. sammand 12 miles from Kaii. — It is not more

than 4 miles by the direct route from Kaii to
Nariol, but a force marching with artillery has to make a considerable detour
to avoid the low stony hills which run down from the right of the valley ; the
march is an easy one ; for the first mile from camp, we had to go round the
base of a solitary low hill that shoots up in the centre of the valley to the east
of Kaii, and commands the roads on each side of it, after crossing the ravine
which has its rise at the Dupa spring mentioned in the last march. The re-
mainder of the road to Nariol is skirted by low stony hills, covered with jungle,
on the right, having the open and cultivated Miranzai valley to the left. Im-
mediately before arriving at the village we crossed over the Nariol nuddi, in
which a small stream, having its rise in the adjacent hills, continually flows.
Seventh stage. To Darsammand, nine miles. — The baggage went by the

direct route over the plain to Darsammand, but
EG^miles^''^''''' *' Darsammand, ^.j^^ ^^.^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^ y^^ ^j^^ ^.jj^^^^ ^f Torawari,

inhabited by Grymukht Affghans, tributary to
the British Government. There are three considerable nallahs to cross between
Nariol and Torawari ; and the country, excepting in the immediate vicinity of
these places is generally covered with jungle. The road from Torawari to
Darsammand is commanded for about half a mile by a projecting spur from the
Sanghar mountain ; it is also crossed by the Sarrobai nallah. The best
encamping ground at Darsammand is to be found near the ruins of the
village of Gandiaur, about a mile to the south of Darsammand, on the banks
of the Schalli nallah. Darsammand stands at the foot of a low spur from
the higher ridges running down from the Sanghar mountain, which are very
steep and diflicult of access. It is the strongest village in the whole of
Miranzai, consisting of three separate stone wall enclosures about 12 feet high
flanked by burjes, and connected between two of these is the bazar containing
some 30 or 40 shops, in a street, the ends of which are closed by gateways.
The village itself is commanded by low spurs in its rear, within matchlock
range. It is supplied with water from numerous springs in its vicinity, from
which flow streams not only suflicient for the use of the inhabitants, but also

[ 47 ]

for the irrigation of their fields. There are several very fine clumps of chinar
and walnut trees between the village and the foot of the hills.

Eighth stage. To Thall, ten miles. — At about one mile from Darsam-

mand, opposite to the ruins of Gandiaur, a road

^ Total distance to ThaU, 66 branches off to the. Khattak village of Dillan, over

whicli guns could be taken with their horses with-
out any very great difficulty. The Thall ro^d for the first three miles skirts the
low cultivated lands of Gandiaur and Mammu, and then crosses the Schalli, the
country to the right being high, undulating, and covered with dense jungle.
There is a knoll which commands the road and the surrounding country here,
on the left bank of the stream. The hills to the left are also covered with
jungle, and if occupied by matchlock men would have to be crowned before a
force could pass unmolested along the bed of the stream, where the road runs
for about half a mile before ascending the right bank, which is rather steep.
There is then a further regular ascent to the summit of the plateau between
the Sangroba and Schalli nullahs. The gun road turns off at right angles to
the northward, about half a mile from the first rise, and proceeds along the
Admeylah road until the auuunit of the plateau is attained, when it again
returns to the direct Thall road. The descent into the Sangroba nallali at a
little more than a mile from Thall is easy. It is hard to get a space of
ground, excepting cultivation, large enough for a camp of any size, except in
positions commanded by adjacent heights, or in others liable to be fiooded
by the waters of the river Kurram. Our camp was pitched on an open space
at a distance of about half a mile from Thall, down the river bed on the
right bank of the Schalli (the heights to the front and rear being held by
picquets,) and immediately above the junction of the Schalli with the Kurram.

The village of Thall is situated at the junction of the Sangroba nallah with
the Kurram, and being on the immediate high bank of the former, which is
being gradually washed away, it is probable that the people will have to
remove from their present position, which is now surrounded by a good stone
wall from 12 to 15 feet high, with two good gateways. There is a portion
of the village separated at a distance of about GO yards from the main village.
The river Kurram rises in the Safed Koh range, and after irrigating the valley
of the same name, enters the Bangash territories at a place called Akshaur,
about 10 miles above Thall, and from this point to the Bannu valley forms the
British boundary. At a distance of about 4 miles from Thall on the opposite
side of the Kurram and down the river, stands the village of Billand Khel
which is surroimded by a good loopholed wall flanked by 13 towers. Some of
these are more imposing than useful, for though lofty, they are not of a suffi-
cient size to contain above one or two men. This village is in the open plain,

[ ^8 ]

and lias no natural defences. At a distance of about 1200 yards is a good

stone garlii with a tower. It is known as Rasul Khan's garhi. In Billand

Khel is to be found a mixture of men of all tribes, mustering about 800 or

1000 fighting men, who are on good terms with their Waziri neighbours.

The camp returned to Darsammand by the bed of the Schalli stream, along

which, there is a very fair road for guns. The steep heights to the right

being about 3 or 400 feet above the bed of the stream, appearing from

below to be a range of hills, are in reality but the sudden breaking of a long

elevated grassy steppe which runs for a distance of about 10 miles parallel to

the river and has a breadth of about 4 or 5 miles from east to west ; this is

known by the name of " Chapperi" and over it the Waziris graze their flocks

during the cold season.

Ninth stage. To SiriJcTirour or Ghilzai Bandali ten miles; or for Guns,

ten and a half miles. — Supposing a force to have encamped either on the ground

m , , T t f -ir 1 <. (. 0" the immediate rijrht bank of the Schalli or on
Total distance Irom Xohat to o

Siriklirour, 7G miles ; or for the left of the Sangroba nallah or the cultivated
' * * lands immediately opposite the village of Thall,

the road passes the Sangroba nallah and round the village of Thall ; traverses
an elevated plateau and crossing several nallahs, the natural drainage from the
spurs coming down from the Khadi Mukh peak, at about 2 miles from Thall it
crosses the Kurram river, the passage of which is here commanded within easy
matchlock range by a strong position above it, on the left bank, where are the
ruins of a village constructed by the Yusaf Khel Bangashes, when they separ-
ated, in consequence of a feud, from the remainder of the tribe. The stream at
this season of the year (November) is very low, but still about 2 feet deep and
running with tolerable veloeit}- ; for about a month in spring when the snow
at the sources of the stream is melting, the passage across, as well as the
road along it, may be at times impracticable for a few days. At 4 miles, after
having proceeded up the right bank or along the bed of the stream, you
ascend the bank where there is but the foundation remaining of a nice, consi-
derable garhi known as Raja ka Killa. All this part of the road is very fine,
but the ascents of some of the cross nallahs are apt to be damaged and
rendered precipitous during floods, and should be looked to before marching up
the river with guns. At about 6 miles from Thall, upon arriving at the
Shabbakh nallah, the road for guns descends again into the bed of the stream
and follows it to the end of the march ; bub for the infantry, cavalry and
baggage there is a dry road, passing over a low ridge of hills which is shorter
than the river route by about half a mile, and which, if necessarj', could very
easily be made practicable for guns, the slopes being easy and soil composed of
slate rock ; but in its present condition, it is totally impracticable for guns.

[ 49 ]

The encamping ground at the end of this day's march is on a sloping bank,
(with ample room for any number of men,) on the right bank of tbe Kurram,
but commanded on all sides by low hills ; grass, forage for camels, &c. abun-
dant, but no provisions procurable, as the only place in the shape of a village
near, is Ghilzai Bandali, wliere there are a few houses. This hamlet derives
its name from one Grhilzai, a Khattak, who was obliged to fly from Dillan on
account of the atrocious murders he bad committed there, and on this neutral
ground he formed the nucleus of a village which is gradually increasing.

Tenth stage. To ILazir Firs Ziarat : hy right hankfijteen miles, hi/ left bank

fourteen and a half miles. — There is no gun-road
Total distance from Koliat to i .1 • 1 i 1 i r xi • j ^i

Hazir Pir's Ziarat, 91i mile.. ^^'^"S ^^'^ ^'S^^ ^^"'^ ^^ ^^'^ ^^^<^''' »°^ ^^'^ ^'""S

have to go up tlie bed of tlie stream for about
2 miles and then get up on the left bank. Both roads are practicable for in-
fantry or horsemen, but that on the left bank is the best : the only disadvantage
is that if the river happens to rise, it will be dilHcult or even impossible to
cross. For the first 4 n»ilcs on the left bank the road is commanded by low
hills on the right, and then for the remainder of the distance runs along the
foot of the " Karewali" or elevated plateau which marks the boundary of the
irrigation on each side of the river ; and it is on the edge of this that most of
the villages are situated. If proceeding by the left bank, the river has to be
crossed again just opposite llazir Pir's Ziarat. The route by the right bank
is commanded within matchlock range, more or less along the whole road, from
spurs coming down from the range of hills which separates Kurram from
Khost : it crosses the drainage of this tract. For the last 10 miles both
roads traverse Ballyamin one of the divisions of Kurram ; the country is cul-
tivated for a distance of about from i to 2 miles on each side of the river, and
dotted over with numerous small square walled villages or garhis generally called
after the name of the head men in each for the time being ; there are about 20
of these in Ballyamin. Provisions of most sorts are procurable in the district,
for a small force, for a limited period. Encamping ground at Hazir Pir's Ziarat
stony ; camel-grazing in abundance, as well as grass ; water from the Kurram.
From Hazir Pir's Ziarat there are two routes to Muhammad Azim's Fort
in Kurram, the one by the Darwaza pass, and the other along the bed of the
river. The Darwaza route is as follows.

Eleventh stage. To South end of Darwaza pass, ten and a half miles. — This

„, ^ , ,. , , „ , distance is the one measured bv the route follow-

lotal distance from L-oliat to ,

South end Darwaza pass, 103 ed by Brigadier Chamberlain's force; but if in-
stead of turning up the ravine that comes down
from the west we had gone up the one that joins it from the north, we should,
as wc afterwards learned, have gone by the " Sangalli rah" which is shorter,
H

[ 50 1

Both routes are practicable and offer no difficulties to guns. The country
traversed is an undulating desert, covered with stones, grass, and thin jungle ;
the halting-place is where water is procured from a stream that comes out of
the Darwaza darra, but very soon loses itself in the soil. Camel-grazing only
procurable in the pass itself; grass is abundant. This part of the country is
held by wandering Jagi tribes who are not over nice in discriminating be-
tween their own and other people's property, and not given to stick at trifles
in the manner in which they possess themselves of what they covet.

Twelfth stacje. To Kot Mean-ji, ttoelve and a quarter miles. — This is a name

given to a spot where we encamped 2 miles south
Total distance from Kobat to ^ ^^ ^g^^ ^^^ f. .^ ^j^^ ^.j ^^^. ^^^^^ ^ ^j^^

Kot Meaii-ji, 114| miles. =>

river, "We encamjied here, as no fire-wood was

procurable on the other side of the river, without having to go a very long dis-
tance for it, and also because all the forage for horses had to be procured from
the Darwaza pass, where was also the best grazing-ground for camels. The
road for the first half ascends gradually along the bank of a small rivulet.
It is commanded by low hills on each side running parallel to it, but which
can easily be crowned. The present state of the road, owing to large stones
and narrow shelving banks on the edge of the river, is very bad for guns
(3 axles of gun-carriages were broken while going through the pass) but in
two or three days, it might, with the greatest ease, be put into very good
order ; the latter half towards Mean-ji is easy, with a gradual descent.

B// the Biver lioiite from Hazir Firs Ziarat.

Eleventh stage. To Ihrahimzai, eleven and a quarter miles. — For the first

9 miles of this march, the road is along the bed

Total distance from Kohat to c , i • i • i i t i i ^

Tu 1 • mo-! -1 <^i the river, which lias to be crossed and re-

Ibrahimzai, 102j miles, '

crossed ; the whole of this distance as far as the
large village of Suddah is through the Makhizai sub-division of Kurram, and
sprinkled with numerous walled enclosures, called after the malik or headman
at the time holding each ; at 6 miles is Durani, a village of about 200 houses
and the residence of the Deputy Governor of the Province ; from this, there
is a direct road through the Zymukht country to Toravari and Nariol in
Miranzaie, Makhizai consists of about 20 garhis on a strip of irrigated
land half a mile wide, bounded by a low ridge of hills on the right bank of
the Kurram river, with about a mile of the same description of land belonging
to 5 villages on the left bank, the latter bounded by the Karewah running
back to the Zymukht mountains, and down which the drainage of that coun-
try runs. At Suddah the Kurram river is joined by a tributary known as the
Kurramana, which flows down from the Arakzai mountain. While the guns

[ ol ]

proceed along the bed of the river, there is a short cut through an opening in
tlie hills, wliich saves about a mile, for the infantry and cavahy ; the last
two miles of this route is open to marauding attacks from the Musazaies a
tribe who infest this road and occupy the adjacent hills. Ibrahinizai is a large
village but its lands are entirely cultivated for rice, and consequently it may
be difficult to find encamping ground on either bank. On the right bank there
is good grazing for camels and forage for cavalry.

Twelfth stage. To Kot Mean-ji, twelve and a quarter miles. — The gun

and cavalry road is along the bed of the river ;
Ko^Mean-tlS ^S.^""^''* ^'^ mi^x^Uy may either go by this or along tlie

high bank through the villages. Upon either
bank the hills generally run down to the water-edge ; on the right bank there
are only one or two villages with here and there small patches of rice cultiva-
tion. On the left bank the cultivation below the Karewah varies in breadth from
one to two miles, and is covered with large villages studded along the edge of
the Karewah; the largest of these are Tapakkie, Topil Sinalli, Andkot and
Agra, all in Kurram proper. The Fort of Kurrani, an account of which will
be found in Appendix B. is about 2 miles from tliis encamping ground, which
would make its total distance from Kohat about US miles.

Thirteenth stage. To llahih killa, seventeen and half miles. — All the way

from the Kurram fort, the road crosses the un-
Total distance from Kobat to i.- a i i i i i • v ft

Habib killa, 132 mUes. cultivated barren slope and drainage from the

Safed koli ; it passes three villages close to each
other called Kutch Kani, and at a distance of 4 miles from Shallozan, one of the
largest villages in the district, which embedded in trees can only be distinguish-
ed by the conspicuous shrine of Mir Ibrahim, perched upon a spur immediate-
ly above the village. Habib killa is a square enclosure detached about f of a
mile from the large village of Painar, of which it is an off-shoot, and is sur-
rounded by the richest cultivation, on which great care has been bestowed ;
the land is terraced and irrigated by a stream rushing down from the over-
hanging Safed koh. Forage for camels is plentiful, all the adjacent low
hills being covered with low oak jungle ; but grass for cavalry is scarce, the
people of the country feeding their horses on bhusa. More provisions can be
procured here, than perhaps any other spot in all Kurram, as Paiwar contains
an immense number of Hindus (in fact as many as there are Muhammadan.s)
carrying on a considerable trade.

Fourteenth stage. To Zahardast killa, ten miles. — There are two routes by

which a force marching from Habib killa may

Total distance from Kohat to proceed -.-either over the Paiwar, or the Ispingawi
Zabardaat killa, 142 nnles. » ' i o

Kothals. The first is the shorter of the two.

H 2 <

[ 52 ]

('I'he distances liere given are only approximate.) By the latter, instead of
going on through the village of Paivvar, tlie road turns sharp up to tlie
right along the bed of a deep ravine, east of the village which comes down
from the " Sikaram" peak. At 3 miles from Habib killa pass tlie Gnundi
khel ofF-shoot of the Paivvar village strongly situated on a spur of " Sikaram"
and containing about 30 houses. As far as this, the road is commanded within
easy matchlock range, by the heights on each side, and from this there is a
regular ascent to the summit of the Kothal. Leaving the bed of the nallah
hitherto traversed to the right, the road passes through a forest of pines,
deodars, oak and yews to the top of the range ; the gradient of the ascent is
not very difficult until near the summit, and guns upon elephants might be
taken over. There are no zigzags. On the Haryab side the descent is very
gradual, and road good, passing through a succession of beautiful glades as far
as Zabardast killa, a small Jagi tower where the Paiwar route joins with this
one. The road by the Paiwar Kothal after passing through the village of
that name, crosses several deep ravines running throngb broken ground covered
with oak tree jungle, and commanded in many places by spurs coming down
from the range separating this from the Ispingawi road, and in one of the
gorges of which is situated the small Mangal village of Gobarzan. At 5 miles,
pass a little cultivation belonging to the Mangals of Tarai and Kutarai, two
small villages behind a spur coming down from the Paiwar Kothal range, the
inhabitants of which are notorious thieves, frequently robbing kafilahs. At
about 7 miles from Habib killa (the road gradually ascending and latterly
along the bed of a ravine) you arrive at the foot of the Kothal, which is
about the saine height as the Kohat Kothal from the Peshawar side ; the
ascent is by a regular zigzag, the gradient not very steep : but there being
one or two large rocks in the road, some labour would be necessary to render it
practicable to take guns over even with drag-ropes. The hills are thickly
covered with pines, yews, &c. On the crest is a tower constructed for the
protection of the road and held by Mangals, the descent from this to Zabardast
killa is very gradual, along a glade in the midst of undulations covered with
a dense pine forest.

At Zabardast killa, there is plenty of open encamping ground to the north,
close to the vilhige under which runs the Keria stream from which alone water
is procurable. Forage of all sorts scarce, and little or no provisions procurable.

Fifteenth stage. To All khel, ten miles. — From Zabardast killa to the

village of Ali khel the road lies along the bed of

Total distance from Kohat to ji „ t' • i. i i.i i • i • i j i > /.

Ali khel, 152 miles. *"^ "^^^"'^ stream, along the high right bank of

which are situated the Jagi villages of Lehwani
Jaddran, Byram khel and Mallu khel. On the left, spurs run down and com-

%

[ 53 ]

mand the road from different points along the wliole route. The encampinc;
ground for a force, would be on an elevated plateau upwards of a mile beyond
the village and near the junction of the Keria and Hazar-darakht streams.
Infantry and cavalry arrive at it by a road through the village, which after-
wards descends into and again ascends out of two very deep " alyads" or
ravines ; but guns would have to go down about half a mile and come up the
Hazar-darakht stream as far as the village of Shamu khel opposite the en-
camping ground, where there is a slope up to the plateau where the camp
would be pitched. Water here is from the Hazar-darakht stream. Ali khel
is a large village composed of some 50 enclosures, each in itself a little
fort ; the houses are of two stories, in the upper of which live the people,
while their cattle, &c. are sheltered below. Some small amount of provisions
might be procured here, but not without oppression to the people, who
can scarcely raise sufficient for home consunii)tion. Forage is scarce, and
there is very little grazing for camels : fuel is abundant. There is a road
leading over tlie hills from Ali khel into the heart of the Mangal country,
and it is much frequented by that tribe, who come over in bands to plunder on
this road.

Sixteenth stage. To Hazar-darakht, thirteen miles. — The road descends

from the plateau, on which any large camp at

Total distance from Koliat to ii- i i i i i i i -a i i • 4. 4.1 i j

Hazardarakht, 165 miles. ^^' '^'''"'^ "'^"'^ ^''''''' ^^^" pitched, into the bed

of tiie stream along which it continues, gradually
ascending for tlie rest of this day's march. The valU-y at the last ground
was about 2 miles broad ; but about four miles on, upon reaching tlie village
of llokian, it narrows into half a mile, with precipitous commanding peaks
upon each side, clad with pine forests, llokian contains about 30 houses,
and the route onwards from it for the next four miles runs due north, the
mountains closing in on each side until at last the stream is conlined to a gorge
of not more than 200 yards broad : at two miles beyond llokian there is a
glen shooting off to the right which contains a few houses, off-shoots from the
Eokian village. At the 8th mile from camp, the road turns sharp due west,
while another road called the " Ghariggi" crosses the hills direct to Cabul.
The country here consists of lofty ranges of mountains, high spurs from which
run down to the bank of the stream, entirely commanding the road, and their
slopes are generally very steep and in many places comi)osed of loose shingle,
in which many landslips have occurred ; pines and deodar cover the whole.
At Hazar-darakht there is no village, and although perhaps tlie broadest place
in this elevated glen, there is but just room for the encampment of one regi-
ment. Any force in camp here would have to be generally scattered, and the
place would be a nasty one to be attacked in : but no better ground is to be

[ 54 ]

had. Guns would have great difficulty in this march owing to rocks and stones
which have been rolled down by floods and settled in the bed of this torrent.
No provisions nor forage of any description procurable here, not even for
camels.

Seventeenth stage. To Ochamarglia or Ilazra, eiglit miles. — The road for the
first two miles as far as Gajji thannah is similar
Total distance from Kohat to ^^ ^j^^ ^^^^^^ .^.-^j^ of yesterday's march ; Gajji
Ochamarglia or Hazra, 173 miles. ' j .1 ' m

thannah is a small square garhi, with two towers

flanking it, but is itself commanded in all directions by the hills about. Trom
this point as far as the foot of the Surkhai Kothal, the ascent is much
more gradual, and the bed of the torrent gravelly. A mile beyond this is
Kattasang, where there is a watch tower, opposite a gorge in the hills through
which travellers sometimes go via the Mangal country, Khost and Dur to
Bannu. This tower marks the boundary between the Jaggis and Ghilzies.
At 7 miles from Hazar-darakht is the Sirki Kothal, which is on the water-
shed of the Kurram and Surkhel streams. The Kothal is a short but very
steep one, the soil is a stiff red clay which after rain must become very slip-
pery, the ascent is commanded by the knolls on each side, and on the summit
is a tower held by Ghilzies. A slight descent, and after traversing for about
a mile further a comparative plain, you arrive at Hazra, a post similar to
that erected at Jaggi thannah. The encamping ground here is good ; heights
all round to be held. Water from springs, the sources of the Surkhel ; no
provisions ; and except at certain times in summer but little forage procurable ;.
the horses of the country are fed on " teikktra" or wormwood. The eleva-
tion of this encamping ground is about 13.458 feet above the level of
the sea, and the road is here generally blocked with snow from December to
April.

EigMeenth stage. To Dohandi, eight miles. — From camp the road, as far as

the summit of the Shutur Gardan pass, has a

Total distance from Kohat to .^j^^^j ^^^^^^^ ^^ ^ ^^^^ commanded

Dobandi, xSl miles. ° o » o

from peaks all around for about 2 miles. The

descent of this pass towards Logar is exceedingly steep, with sharp zigzags
and very long; Artillery (1 believe 6 pounders) has been taken over this pass
by Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan, but he carried the guns on the stout double-
humped Bokhara camels ; for wheeled carriage it is at present impracticable,
and it would take a vast expenditure of money and labour to make it passable.
The rugged nature of the mountains overhanging both sides of this pass with
huo-e masses of naked limestone rock cropping out in every direction, ofl'er
cover to an enemy from which it would be difficult to dislodge him without
great lo?s ; and it would be difficult to withdraw covering parties after the

[ 55 ]

descent of the pass had been accomplished : in fact, supposing opposition to
be offered here, it would be difficult to conceive a worse pass for the passage
of an army; and it would be useless to attempt it, except as a diversion, with
a brigade of the best light troops, with mountain train batteries and field
howitzers on elephants ; but for these animals even, the procuring of forage
would be no easy matter. From the Fort of the Kothal to Akhun killa (a
small Ghilzi village) the road is along the bed of a small stream never more
than 100 yards broad witli huge cliffs towering up several hundred feet on each
side ; immediately before arriving at, and after passing this village, the gorge
narrows to 30 feet ; from this point for about 3 miles, the ravine continues very
steep until joined by a stream coming down from a northern direction ; on the
tongue of land between these streams there is room for a camp. On the high
karewah lands opposite the village are the remains of a large thannah, now
partially ruined. Here forage, fuel, and provisions are not procurable with-
out the greatest difKculty.

Nineteenth stage. To Khushi, nine miles. — The road for the first 2 miles,

as far as the small Ghilzi village of Babbar,
Total distance from Kobat to^^ i i^niii'ii i.

Khushi I'JO miles. proceeds along the bed ol tlie same stream as

that hitherto followed from the foot of the

Shutur Gardan Pass ; but here the water goes on through a narrow gorge,

and takes a sudden precipitous full down a cliff; while the road leaving its

bed, goes up to the right over a small, though rather steep, hill, with a few

hundred feet elevation known as the Shinkai Kothal, on the crest of which

is a tower or " I3urj" at present held by about 20 Ghilzies who protect this

portion of the road from the attacks of small parties of marauding Mangals,

who, coming over the hills from Zurmat used to render it dangerous for

travellers. Arrived on the higher karewah lauds (or elevated plateaus) of

Logar, the road continues gradually descending, and running parallel to the

high batdt of the same ravine down which we had come from the Shutur

Gardan; its bed having now widened to some 600 feet with banks 300 feet

deep. The whole country around presents the most barren, dreary aspect it

is pos:?ible to conceive, excepting the bed of the ravine itself, which smiles

with green fields and orehaids, and gradually widens to l of a mile at the

large village of Khushi, which contains about 300 houses in numerous walled

enclosures, or forts. Here is good encamping ground, plenty of water and

])rovisions, but grazing for camels scarce.

Fro)n Khuslii to Cahul is !< marcJies, viz.

Zirgun Shahr, twelve miles. Safed Sang, twelve miles. Char Asseah, ten
miles. — All large villages situated in the open and extensive valley of Logar : —

[ 56 ]

And to Cabvil, ten miles. — N. B. The measured distance b}' the Kybar route
from Peshawar to Cabul is 192 miles.

From Khushi to Ghazni.

Twentieth stage. To Hissaralc, ten miles. — Road over a most uninteresting

country along the bed of tlie Khushi ravine all
Total distance from Kohat to ii t •*. • j-- -li ii t i.

Ilissarak, 200 miles. *''*^ "''^^ ^^ ^^^ junction with the Logar stream.

On both sides is an extensive sandy sterile tract
of country affording meagre grazing for flocks of sheep, to within 2 miles of the
river bank where rich cultivation commences, and is carried as far as irrigation
from the stream can be taken to it. The district of Logar has at first sight
a striking appearance to a stranger, for the eye searches in vain for villages or
houses of any sort. But the green strip of cultivation following the windings of
the stream is interrupted every here and there by a succession of strong mud
forts, admirably built and flanking each other ; vfitli bastions at the angles,
connected by curtains 30 feet high, which enclose the habitations of the
peasantry. As the population is closely packed, every inch of available land is
cultivated, and the edges of the water-courses are thickly planted with rows
and groves of willow and poplar, which alibrd almost tlie only timber to be
met with here; the trees are kept carefully trimmed, and sliooting up straight,
are fit to cut after 12 or 14 years. There is a cross road from Hissarak to
Kurram, striking off iu a south-easterly direction,** passing through the large
*' Kassilbashi" village of Altimur, crossing the water-slied line of the Logar
and Kurram rivers into the Zarmat valley, and thence through the Mangal
village of Kasin, two coss above the junction of the Haryab with the Kur-
ram stream ; but this route is reported difficult and little frequented owing to
the predatory habits of the tribes through whose country it passes.

Tivcntij-Jirst stage. To Ilabih /cilia, nine miles. — About a mile from the

last ground cross the Logar stream, fordable al«
Total distance to Habib killa, ^ j ^^^ ^^j^- j ^j j^ j ,^

20'J miles. '' '

bridge, the piers of which are constructed of a

frame work of wood firmly mortised together, filled iu witli large stones and

connected logs of wood fixed across the top to support the road way. Tlie

road is narrow, and winds about the cultivation, it is seldom broader than to

admit of two horsemen going abreast, and passes through several villages

among which are the strong walled villages of Sainda and Bankibarak ; good

encamping ground is found at Habib killa on the edge of the cultivated lands ;

water from a cut from the Logar river ; provisions abundant ; fuel scarce and

forage for camels equally so. In Logar the population is extremely mixed,

consisting of Tagaks, Ghilzies, Kassilbashis, Mumands, Barakies and Wardaks.

[ 57 ]

Tvoenty-seconcl stage. To Amir Killa, nine miles. — Through a couiitiT very

similar to that traversed in yesterday's march,

Total distauee to Aiuh- killa, \ l •l\ c u ^ ^ ,., i 4^1,, .,,11,^.,

218 miles ^^^ with, fewer walled enclosures, aud the valley

gradually narrowing until at the halting place it

is little over GOO yards wide; about 4 miles from Hahib killa, a cross road

strikes off to the left through the village of Chillozan and over the Sirgawau

kothal, which is difficult, but practicable for a horseman, and by which Ghazni

can be readied (by a sowar) iu one day. Amir killa consists of 3 forts, which

completely cross the valley ; one of these is built in the form of an octagonal

bastion loopholed for musketry : if occupied, and the enemy at the same

time holding the hills which run down from each side, it would be a very

strong and defensible position. There is no ground here, or any where else

within the next three miles, extensive enough for the encampment of any

number of men : provisions might be collected from the villages as well as

fodder in the shape of " bhusa;" grazing for camels and fuel very scarce;

water from the Logar stream.

Twenty-third stage. To HydarJchel thirteen miles. — The first portion of this

march is along a very narrow valley, and the road

Total distance to Hydurkhel, commanded all the way by spurs running down
231 luiles, J J r o

on each side : at the 2nd mile (ron» camp, pass the

large fortified village of Tangi Wardak consisting of 3 forts built on the left
bank of tiie Logur stream, all with high well-built " pakka" (mud and stone)
walls, loopholed for musketry aud in echellon Hanking each other ; at the 4th
mile is the small village of Doabhe, at the junction of and between the Shiniz and
Logar streams. The road here leaves the valley watered by the latter, and turn-
ing up the bed of the Shiniz strikes acro^s and joins the great higiiway be-
tween Cabul and Ghazni at about G miles from Amir killa, and proceeding along
it through the cluster of villages called Syad-abad arrives at the large village of
Hydarkhel, from which point the route is described in the Quarter Master Ge-
neral's route by Major Hougli, &.<:. ite. tic. and consists of the foiiowiug stagers.
To Haft Asijah cJeocii miles.

Total distance to Haft Asyah
212 iiiilc3.

To Skash Gaw, eight and three quarter miles.

Total distance to Slia&li Gaw,
2o0i miles.

To Ghazni, thirteen and halj miles.

Total distance to Uhuzni, ^Glj
miles.

APPENDIX B.

Wuziris.

Some account of the Tribes through tvltose country the Paiwar route from
Kohcd to Ccibul i^asses, after leaving the British Bonier.

The country inhabited by these wild tribes may be described as bounded
on the North, by Khost ; on the East, by that
portion of the Kohat District extending from Ba-
hadur Khel to Dillan in the Khattak hills and Thall on the Kurram ; on the
south, by Diar and the British Frontier at Tak ; and on the west, by an ima-
ginary line drawn about 20 miles east of and parallel to the Guleri Pass. But
it is not to be supposed that the Waziris are entirely confined to these limits,
for tliey often attack Kaffilahs proceeding by the Guleri route, and feed their
flocks in Morwanzai. They themselves consider their head quarters to be, during
tlie winter months, in Feraat-uUah, and in summer on the slopes of the Tur-
ghar mountains which seem to be the range connecting the Takht-i-Sulaiman
mountains with the Safed koh, at the head of the Kurram.

2. The Waziris describe themselves as descended from one Wazir, who,
when in difficulties, took refuge in the natural fastnesses of Feraat-ullah. He
begat a son Khidu, who in turn had a son Massu, from whom are sprung all
the different branches of Waziri tribes.

3. The portion of tribe located in this direction is called the Darwesh
Khel Waziris. It divided into Amazais and Atmanzaies, which are again sub-
divided into the following clans, of which the approximate strength in fight-
ing men is

Amazaies.

... 1,000
... 1,000

Taji Khel, ...
Khagal Khel,
Gangi Khel,
Sirki Khel,
Spirki Khel,
Pyndah Khel,
Zalli Khel,
Amrmiszan, ..,
Badin Khel,
IShadeaki,

Total

400

500

2,000

1,000

2,000

2,000

500

200

10,600

[ 59 ]

Atmanzai.

CabulKhel, 2,000

TuriKhel, 4,000

Warghanvali Khel, 3,000

Mallikshahi, 1,000

Muhammad Khel, 2,000

MaddarKhel, 1,000

Total 13,000

Grand Total, 23,G00

All these clans are again subdivided into numerous smaller khels, but all
are quite distinct from the other great division known as the Maiswud
"Waziris, whose lands border on the Bannu and Tank frontier.

Tlie Cabul Khel and Mallikshahi factions have their winter grazing grounds
on the lands of Billand Khel and Thall. The first is divided into Miami
700, Sifalli 800, and PipalU 500.

These Waziris all belong to the Samil faction of politics so well known on
this frontier, and have a blood-feud of long standing with the Turi tribes;
they are a wild wandering race, living in black tents called in their language
" Ghizilis ;" and their principal wealth is invested in herds of camels, sheep, and
goats ; they possess a very fine breed of horses, which are exceedingly hardy
and active, though small, when compared with the general run of our cavalry
horses, and often impetuous and vicious animals. These are ditlieult to pro-
cure in any numbers as the demand for them is great and they are numerically
scarce : it is said they have Arab blood in them which was introduced from
Nadir Shah's stables; one story is that, on that conqueror's return from the
plundering of Delhi, he presented the tribe with a number of Arabs for the
services which the tribe had rendered him, while another, and to my mind,
more correct, version is, that the tribe stole a number, of valuable Arabs out of
Nadir Shah's stables while his army was returning tlirough the Guleri pass.

In religion, the Waziris belong to the Sunni sect of Muhammadans and, al-
though of AfFghan descent, have many customs peculiar to themselves. For
instance, among Affghans it is customary to murder both parties in case of
adultery, whereas the Waziris kill the woman but only cut ofl" the nose of the
man. It is a most remarkable fact that internal clan-feuds are almost un-
known among these tribes, but on the contrary they are said to be so united,
that if an enemy contrives to plunder the cattle and goods of one portion of a
clan, it is not uncommon for the remainder to unite and make good the loss.
I 2

[ CO ]

Fkom the village of 131iiigzai in Ballyamin, on the high road from Thall to

Kurram, a valley runs off in a westerly direction
Kliost and Kliostwalls. , i • i • ji i . i • i t-i j i

along which is the best road into 1\ host, as only

one small ascent ov Kothal has to be crossed and footmen can traverse the

distance in a few hours.

The inhabitants of upper Khost ai'e called Khostwalls by their neighbours,
while the lower portion of that valley is occupied by Waziris, with whom the
former are on perfectly good terms and make common cause against their
Tori neighbours.

This valley of Khost is said to be nowhere so broad as that of Kurram ;
it has, however, a greater breadtb of cultivation, but the most of it is unirri-
gated "lallani;" the soil is very fertile where irrigated from the three
streams which come down in a south-easterly direction ; the most northerly
from Shabarras, tlie middle one from the borders of Zurmat, while the most
southerly, called the Khetu, drains from the Jaddran country ; all three
uniting form one stream, which falls into the Kurram river at a place called
Zinnuni, 8 coss below Eilland Khel.

Khost is said to be about 40 miles long, bounded on the north and east
by Zurmat and Kurram ; to the south by three tribes of Wazii'is, the Gliar-
baz Maddar Khel and Mahanad, while the Jaddran country shuts it in on the
west. It contains no very hirge villages, but a vast number of small ones : the
largest, and which may be called the capital of the valley, is Sher Killa. The
total number of inhabitants of the valley, which is part of Sirdar Muhammad
Azim Khan's Jagir, is estimated at 12,000, paying a revenue of about the
same number of rupees j'early, collected every two or three years by a
strong force sent for the purpose, and which eats up all that comes within
its reach.

The counti'y of the Zymukht Affghans may be described as a tract about

25 miles long, lying between two ranges of
Zyuuikht Aflglians. . . ... - ,

mountanis wlueh are connected by a water-shed

line, having three slopes each with its distinct line of drainage. The first forms
the Schalli stream, and lias on its banks the villages of Torawari, Danibakki
Yastai, Zowar, Spekeyt, and Tanail ; the second forms the Sangroba rivulet,
near the sources of which are the two largest villages in the district, Manattu
and Chinarik, besides Tannah, Sangrobah, Adhmeylah and Duraghah, sprink-
led along its banks ; while the third slope contains the villages of Gavvakhi
Lurahmela and Doleragah (the two last belonging to Arakzai tribes) on the
deep ravines which fall into the Kurram river in Makhezai.

[ 61 ]

The Zjmuldit Affglians can, at their utmost need, only muster some 3,000
families ; but have always been supported by their Arakzai neighbours in any
struggle with other tribes.*

'J'heir country is generally covered with jungle, and cultivation is only to be
seen in the immediate vicinity of villages, owing chiefly to the number of
internal blood feuds in this clan which preclude the possibility of agricultural
operations being carried on at any distance from sujjport. Travellers save a
day's march by taking the route through this countr}^ in going from Kohat
to Kurram, but they have to pay heavily for a safe conduct through, (called
Badragga). The Zymukhts are physically, a fine looking, powerful race, forming
in this respect a striking contrast to their Turi neighbours. They are on the
Samil side of politics, and are said to be the descendants of a tribe of Tur
Tarins who immigrated from their own country and colonized this nook.

The general aspect of the district of KtUTain is picturesque and attractive

in the extreme to an European stranger fresh
Kurram and the Turies, „ , ,. rri- ^ i ■ -, •

Iron) tlie plains ot India: a clear and rapid river

which has its sources in the pine clad slopes of the Safed Koh mountains,

which shut in this valley on the west and north, rushes in a winding rocky

bed down the centre of a deep lillet of rich cultivation sprinkled with villages,

each having its clumps of magiiificent plane trees, while the distance is every

where closed by the ever-varying aspect of the noble mountains just meu-

tioiied, which tower over the valley in its whole length.

In the centre of this district and about 25 miles from the Paiwar Kothal,
stands the fort of Kurram, the residence of the local governor ; it is a square
mud enclosure, with faces about 100 yards long having " burjes" or round
towers at the angles and in the centre of each face.

There is but one gateway, towards the west ; around the interior of the
walls are built quarters for the garrison and a bazar, while a second square
with faces parallel to those of the extt-rior work, forms a citadel containing the
magazines and (juarters of the commandant ; a covered way, and ditch which
cau be made wet or dry at pleasure, runs all round the works ; the latter is
crossed by a draw-bridge consisting of a strong platform on small wheels,
running on two powerful beams thrown across the ditch ; the thickness of
the walls is not such as to resist artillery, although ample to present an in-

* Tlie Zj-mulilit are divided into the two factions of Mamuzi and Khwahdad Khel wliich
are subdivided and liave their present liead men as follows.

Mamuzi. Khvvadad Khel.

Mead Men. llctid Men.

Wattizai, Kliaiil, Kliaddu Kiicl, Pahlwan.

Manattu, Slialuiawa/. Babuko Kliel, Sliuril' Khan.

Mewdan, Mir Shah. Assan Khel, Mullah Khan.

Daugi, Abbas. I'lippij Mihimast.

[ C2 ]

surmountable obstacle to any ordinary irregular AflTghan force. The present
garrison consists of two companies of regular infantry, five mountain-train
guns with their artillery men, some jazailchis and irregular sowars.

The district is part of Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan's Jagir, and yields
about 60,000 Kupees per annum ; of which, some 12,000 Rupees are collected
as transit duty on kaffiUahs, and the remainder is land revenue. The Sirdar sel-
dom visits the country himself, but governs it through a Deputy or " Naib."
Collections can only be made by a considerable force, which is usually sent
over from Cabul, and when it does arrive, sweeps the whole country clean
before it. The soil produces both the rabbi and kharif crops ; the chief pro-
duct being rice, which is cultivated in sufficient quantities to admit of extensive
exportation to Cabul and neighbouring countries. Wheat, barley, Indian-corn
and a little cotton are also grown.

All the irrigated lands are close along the banks of the river, and whenever
extraordinary floods sweep away any portion of these fields it is a common
practice to plant rows of willows as tliiekly as they will stand and to keep them
cut down to two or three feet in heiglit, for some years : these, spreading, form a
very complete barrier, which in ordinary floods catches and retains a rich deposit
of alluvial soil ; as soon as it is di'y, a crop is sown on it, while each succeeding
flood only adds to the depth of the deposit ; the cultivator loses but one crop,
and, in a very few years, regains a fine field supported on a living willow wall.

Between this cultivated tract along the bank of the river, on the edge of
which most of the villages are placed, and the bottom of the lowest slopes of
the Safed Koh (called by the natives Tissin Ghar) mountains, lies an un-
culturable tract varying from two to ten miles in breadth and sloping down
towards the cultivation where it terminates in an abrupt bank having a com-
mand of from 20 to 60 feet above the irrigation. It is barren and strong, and
intersected by numerous deep ravines, down which flows the drainage from the
adjacent mountain ; at the head of these where they leave the hills are to be
found some of the largest villages such as Shallozan, Ziran and Kirman, built
in narrow gorges and famous for the luxuriant orchards of fruit trees, as well
as the silk grown by the inhabitants.

The large village of Paiwar, 7 miles from the Kothal, after which it is called,
is built in a similar position, and strange to say contains almost as many Hindus
as Muhammadans, engaged in a thriving retail trade of goods imported from
Cabul and the Panjab. Large piles of stones in the bed of a torrent now dry,
mark the spots where these Hindus have from time to time burnt their dead.

In former days when the Aflghans ruled supreme from the Indus west-

^ ,. . . „,, ^ ward, this tract was divided generally into two

Former divisions of the country. , ,

divisions known as Bangash-i-bala and Bangash-

[ <33 ]

i-paiar. The latter included all the present Koliat district, and extended to
Tliall ; and the former all that country now called Kurraui, which was again
subdivided into the districts of Ballyamin, extending from Sirakhrour to Hazir
Pir's Ziarat ; Makhizai, from Hazir Pir's Ziarat to Suddah ; Darra-i Chamkam*
mi from the stream that comes down from the Paiwar village which falls into
the Kurrara river a little above the village of Eruknah, and upwards mitil the
country divides into naiTOW glens ; while the remaining portion was known as
Kurram khas.

From Kirman, a long " darrah" or glen runs up for 15 miles, between two
bold spurs, parallel to the general run of the Safed Koh range, and is inhabited
by an independant tribe called Paras who have numei'ous small villages scat-
tered along the glen, which is very narrow.

The shrine of Falim-i-aUim, the father of Nadir Shah, in Kirman, is cons^i-
dered very sacred by the Turi tribes, who are all of the Shiah sect of Muham ma-
dans. Little is known of the origin of these people ; they and their neighbours
the Jagis are supposed to be the descendants of two Mogal brothers, Tur and
Jagi, and are not considered Pathans, between them and whom there is a marked
ditference in physical appearance, dress and many customs. 'Jhey are generally
short, compact, though rather sickly looking men, with either a skulking or
cunning look about them ; they wear earrings, and dress in a sort of loose
frock coming down to the knees, either of a dark blue colour interspersed with
patches of white, or a white garment patched with blue : a common blue or
white turban and " Kamarbaiid," and breeches loose above, but fitting tight
from the knee down to the ancle, being shod with sandals. The Turis
are armed in much the same way as Affghans, and are supposed to be able to
muster some 3,0U0 footmen and oOO horse. The latter mounted on sorry look-
ing j;ides, small but very wiry animals, are adepts at border forays, and
have a great local reputation. The footmen are thought little of, though a
considerable number are to be found in the regiments of Sirdar Muhammad
Azim Khan, The Turia are divided into the 4 factions of Dupenzui, Sargalli,
Gundekhel and Allyzai.

This tribe have a peculiar custom of firing numerous shots with matchlocks
over the head of a newly born male child, as an introduction to the ordinary
scenes of this life, and to accustom him to the sound, so that he may not
shrink from the fire of his enemies in after life.

The Kothal of Paiwar and four small villages in the vicinity are held by a

portion of the Mangal tribes, of whom but little is
Maugal. ,

known ; they have a tower on the kothal where they

levy a tax on all travellers frequenting this route, robbing the unprotected, and

skulking from the strong ; acting as guides and exacting safe-conduct money

[ 04 ]

(Badarga) from Turis proceeding to Logar or Cabul. Those Mangals are a

considerable tribe, said to possess 250 forts and 500 black tents, scattered over

Zurmat : which they hold conjointly with the Sahnau Khel Ghilzies, and can

muster about 8,000 men. They ai'e divided into
The first three are found in r> n i ji /-ht- i t^i i t^i • • ^ ■•

the different glens, while in the ^^^ smaller clans, the (Mn'al Ivhel, Khajun, Zaub,

Chamkammi darrah which is en- Murghai, and Kamal kliale) ; of these the Miral

tirely held by Mangals are now

to be found the hostile fac- Khel are the most powerful, and the headmen of

tions of Murghai and Kamal this division are the chiefs of the whole tribe. The

khel (berter known as the Madda

khel), Kaimnazai, Bubu khel, Khajuris are almost all robbers, living at the ex-

b:^ and1li^:!X"^ ''^'' P-«« «f tl- --'^^ - general, and their neighbours

lu particular. The Mangals of Zurmat were in-
dependent till about 10 years ago, when Sirdar Muhammad Amin Khan reduced
them to submission to the Cabul authorities, and their country now forms part
of the Jagir of Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan governor of Kurram,

In April 1858, Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan, for the first time for 20 years,
collected the revenue of Chamkummi. He was strongly opposed and lost a
number of men in doing so. It seems they paid their revenue shortly after the
arrival of the troops with little demur ; but being driven to desperation by
tlie acts of the Aifghan soldiery, it was only in desperation that they fought
for the honor of their children.

ArTEE crossing the Paiwar Kothal from Kurram, the traveller finds himself

in an elevated valley down one side of which
'■^ ' flows the Keriah rivulet in a deep bed ; (being

the drainage of this portion of the Safed koh ;) the banks are very high and
along the right are situated most of the villages ; below Allykhel about 13
miles from the Paiwar Kothal it meets a broad mountain torrent coming down
from Hazar-darakht, and the t\vo combined flow on under the name of Haryab ;
all this tract is the home of the Jaji tribes. They are estimated at from 7 to
800 families, and divided into numerous smaller sections ; there are 8 divisions
called wans, as follows. 1st Lehwani, 2nd Addakhel, which contains the
Khwnjakhel and is the chief, 3rd Petla which is coupled with the AlHsemgeh,
4th Ahmadkhel who combine with the Byankhel, 5th Allykhel, Cth Jhamukhel,
7th Hussalnkhel and 8th Keriah Ahmedkhel.

The Jajis are greatly weakened as a tribe by internal feuds, and most of
their villages divided accordingly into numerous separate parts to suit these
factions, while rival towers shoot up side by side in every direction affording a
running commentary on the state of society. Some of these towers are of a
novel construction, being nothing more than a platform on poles about 18 or 20
feet high, with a loopholed mud parapet of about 3 feet, reached by a ladder,
thus

[ 65 ]

/'

/-"

i.

I !

1^ \s\v

LI i

y«^^ - .4<

at:

'.tsStOOt-mm:

'^.^.^^

^^''-v4 *:^^^^ii^#>fe>

v^

■'!i».S

I

All the villages are well built, and walltnl, and each quarter is a small fort in
itself, and the walls loopholed in every possible direction. The houses are mostly
two storied : in the upper live the family, while the ground floor is allotted to the
cattle and sheep. The climate of llaryab is exceedingly cold in winter, but
delightful during the summer months, as the valley has an elevation of 7,000
feet above the sea level. The people seem a prolific race, if one may judge
from the number of children to be seen about every village ; but they have
barely culturable land sufficient to produce subsistence for them ; many men of
this tribe are to be found doing work as day labourers along the British frontier
stations during the winter months. The village of Kokion is famous for the
honey produced there ; each house is said to have, at least, eight or ten hives in
it, and the bees are of a larger variety than tliose usually seen domesticated iu
the East. The greater part of their produce is exported.

[ GG ]

BoRDEBllsro on the Jiijis and liolding the Surkhal and Sliutur-gardaii passes
are the Suhiiman-khel section of the Ghilzi trihes,
and as this is hut a fraction of that great clan,
the strongest in Affghanistan, it may he as well to give a general sketch of
the whole here. In A. D. 1712, tliese Ghilzies under their chief Mir Vis
were supreme in Affghanistan, and ruled the country from the Khybar pass,
on the east, to the province of Kirman in Persia westv,rard ; but they were over-
thrown by Nadir Shah in 1737. In 1802, they were again disastrously routed
out by the Duranies at the battle of Sajawan, and lastly on the 11th of
May in the same year their power was completely crushed by Wazir Fateli
Khan at Guljain where their chief Abdul-rahman Khan Utak with his two
sons, and Shah-ud-din Khan his prime minister w^ere taken prisoners and blown
away from guns; a pile of Ghilzi skulls still marks the field of battle, and
affords some idea of the terrible slaughter of that day.

The Ghilzies were originally a pastoral race, and many sections of the
tribe still retain their nomadic habits, for as surely as the " Gulbahar and
Sialihahur" (spring and autumn) come round, they will be found packing up
their worldly goods and chattels, and moving off to more congenial climes ;
on these occasions the sheep are sent on a month before, and followed at in-
tervals by the cattle and camels ; the women, children, and heavy baggage
being carried on the latter. The grazing grounds of these tribes both in the
hills and plains are apportioned off, and as well known even in the wildest
country, as the gardens and fields of more civilized races ; and as a Ghilzi is
always buried close to the encampment in which they may happen to die, it
becomes a point of honor among these tribes never to give up an inch of
ground which the clan has once occupied, as it may be the last resting place
of some of their ancestors ; and it is easy to imagine that this feeling alone
leads to frequent and bloody feuds.

In the days of Ghilzi supremacy the Sakzai section of the Utak clan, of
which Mir Alam Khan is the present head, w\as considered the " Badshah
khel," or that portion from which their hereditary chiefs were chosen ; but
after the Duranies came to power, the Ghilzies found themselves too much
scattered to depend solely on one head, and the Zabar-Uhel faction of the
Sulaiman khel was selected as the head of the eastern branch, while the re-
mainder continued under Mir Alam Khan, But since the death of Musah
Mehtar (who left a brother Khaniyar, the present chief of Zurmat) no one has
been allowed by the Amir of Cabul to a^^suuie the chiefship of even all the
eastern Ghilzies.

The Ghilzies are acknowledged by the Affghans to be the hardiest and bravest
of their race, and our own experience in Affghanistan confirms this opinion.

[ 67 ]

On the occasion of a portion of the tribe attacking Colonel Wymer's force in
May, 1811, that officer paid a tribute of praise to the cool and deliberate
manner in which they advanced in the teeth of his artillery ; but perhaps
their bravery was still more conspicuous, in May, 1840, when they attacked
Captain William Anderson's detachment of 1200 regular troops with guns.
As recorded by Major Hough, " 2500 Gliilzies were, on this occasion, defeat-
" ed near Tazi. Though exposed to a well-directed and destructive fire of
" shrapnel and grape, the Ghilzies came down twice in a body of 200, riding
" up to the centre of Lieutenant Spence's company, and died on the men's
" bayonets. They had 200 killed, and 40 or 50 were cut up by the cavalry
" afterwards." (Hough, page 381.)

These tribes have two prinei[)ul divisions, Ibrahim and Turan, which are-
again split up into the following clans or " khels."

Ibrahim contains 13, viz :

1st. Zabar-khel (Klian-khel) of which the notorious Aziz Khan is the pre-
sent cliicf. His sister is married to the Amir of Cabul b}' whom she has
one son, Sirdar Muhammad Yusaf Khan. The main strength of this section
is located in Laghman, and migrate to the mountains above Hissarak on
the northern slopes of the Safe koh.

2nd. Ahmadzai, of which Dowlat Khan is chief; he has three sons, Babojan,
Badshah Khan, and Maiz-ullah Khan, whose sister is marrie<l to Sirdar Mu-
hammad Usnian Khan. The Ahmadzaies are the portion of tl)e clan who hold the
Sliutur-gardan kotlial,and that tract through which the I'aiwar route to Cabul
passes, and inhabit during summer the mountains of Surkln-l and Safcdkoh,
while in winter they will be found in Kurram and Mizzin. Dowlat Khan is
one of the heads of the Sulaiman Khels of which Khaniyar Khan (Zabar
Kliel) of Zurinat is another, and Muhammad Sliali Khan, (whose name figures
conspicuously as one of our bitterest enemies in the last Aff'iflian war, but who
is now under surveillance at Cabul), is the third. The latter has also some
considerable influence among the Kohistanis of Najraw, and was chief of the
Babikarkliel faction of tiie Sulaimankhel Ghilzies, which includes Sheripai and
Sak. These are again subdivided into Uriakhel, Utkhel (of which Sher
Muhammad Khan is head) Utarankhel, Kliaruti, Miralikhel, Edukhel and
the Umarkhel ; these generally occupy the lands about Gandamak, Tazin
and Jalal-abad, and are cliiofly engaged in pastoral pursuits, with the exception
of the Utkhel, and a few fellow spirits from among the others, who are
notorious throughout AlTghanistan as a pack of plundering villains, adepts at
cattle lifting and burglary, and the terror of the inhabitants of Cabul ; many
of the most daring robberies committed in the former days of Peshawur were
known to have been the handiwork of these miscreants, who like their fellow
£ 2

\

[ 68 ]

craftsmen the Zalikakhel AftViJies do not consider a child properly baptised
unless lie lias been passed backwards and forwards through a hole in a wall,
with an exhortation to become an expert thief, at the same time that he re-
ceives his name. I may here relate an incident particularly characteristic of
the reckless spirit of these people. One Allamur, a noted thief, of the Ut-
mankhel tribe, had cut a hole in the wall and worked his way into a house in
the city of Cabul, and having extracted a quantity of goods, which he passed
out to his accomplices in vpaiting, vras himself in the act of returning when
the owner of the house seized him by both his legs ; Allamur in this predica-
ment, half in, and half out of the hole, finding no hope of escape, gave
instructions to his companions (who were doing their best to drag him
out) to cut off his head and go off with it, to prevent his person from being
identified! his accomplices without hesitation carried out his instructions to
the letter.

3rd. TJmarkhel, of which Naib Gholam-Tlasul is chief, and who occupy
Maidan aud the country drained by the Surkhrud.

4th. Adramzai, who are all shepherds herding their flocks in Gumeran,
Safed sang and the lower portion of the Logar valley.

5th. Challozai, holding the Sajawan hills between Logar and Ghazni, with
Ibrahim Khan as their chief.

Gth. Chinzai occupying Bini Badam, with grazing grounds in Maidan and

on the eastern slopes of the Pagman hills.

7th. Shahmomalzai, "^ m i •: -i i t j.i v i • i. r

/ These tribes wander about the districts ot

8th. Kyzarkhel, ( Ghazni, Dubba and Maidan.

9th. Khwazak. J

10th. Stanizai. This section is entirely agricultural, living in Logar and
Maidan, and are famed as good farmers, and the most experts hands in the
country at excavating karezahs. This portion of the Ghilzies alone, is again
split up into 21 subdivisions.

11th. Alikhel, another agricultural division located about Mukar.

12th, Andar is a powerful division, but without an acknowledged chief;
they are both agricultural and pastoral in habits, and occupy the Shelgarh be-
tween Ghazni and Zurmat, aud watered by a stream, the drainage of the
western slopes of the Zurmat mountains, which flows into the Bandi Muhain-
madi or Ghazni river.

13th. Tannaki, holding the country west of Ghazni between the Abis-
ladah Lake and the mountains of Nur ; and paying one lakh of rupees annu-
ally to the rules of Ghazni. They are known as the most respectable and well
disposed of their race.

In the Turan are 3 divisions^ viz. :

r
\

[ C9 ]

1st. Utak, (owning Muhammad A.lam Khan as chief, with his head-quartera
at Chowri three marches south-east of Khihit-i-Ghilzi,) is again divided into
Sakzai, Tunzai, Sautkhel and Shagri, and occupies all the country of Khilat-i-
Ghilzi and southward until it meets the independent Kokar and Tarin tribes.
The Utak and Tokhai combined are said to muster about G0,000 souls, having
the Sakzai as their Badshahkhel.

2nd. Tokhai. This large faction includes the Shah-alam-khel. Shah-ud-din-
kliel, Ivalu-khel, Miranzai, Julalzai, Bakarzai, Pirakhale, Likak and Amukhau
sections ; and is almost entirely pastoral, possessing but few houses, and living
in encampments of black tents along the banks of the Tarnak, Nawi, Mar-
glia, and Arghasan streams, as well as on the slopes of the mountains draining
into the Ab-istada.

3rd. Hotaki. This branch is more scattered than others, and is found
about Kandahar and Cabul, as well as Tazin and Jagdalak ; Azad Khan
Sherpai being the chief of the latter, while the section at Kandahar look ta
Sadu Khan of their own section as a chief.

Besides the above regular clansmen, there are several mixed families of
Ghilzies settled in the districts of Herat, Sabzawar and Browkah, who are
supposed to be the descendants of those families who were transported from
Kandahar by Nadir Shah to make room for his Persian followers ; tliese are
roughly calculated at 18,000 houses, and in case of emergency look to Abdul
Ghafar Khan, residing in the Herat district, as their head.

In a wandering tribe like the Ghilzies, scattered over so great a surface of
country, it is of course next to impossible to give even an approximate estimate
of their real numbers ; but the average of several accounts given us in different
localities, make the two great divisions nearly equal, and about 100,000 souls
each, from which perhaps 30,000 good fighting men might be taken as the
total defensive strength of the Gliilzios ; but as tlu-y can never be united
owing to the endless feuds in which all Affglian families are engaged, more
than 3 or 4,000 men could not be got together for offensive operations out of
their own country.

During the Persian invasion of Herat in 1S3S, many of the Turan chiefs
were found to be in correspondence with the enemy for the purpose of over-
throwing Barakzai supremacy ; but on the British troops entering Affghanistan,
and during their occupation of the country, these Ghilzies generally displayed
a rooted hatred to foreigners, and great fidelity to the Amir Dost Muhammad
Klian.

APPENDIX C.

Sicetch ofAffghan tribes bordering and occupying the head ofBolan Fasgf
from information collected at Kandahar.

The Achakzaies, Kahars and Tarins are all Affghan tribes, (though the two
latter are only partially subject to the rule of the Amir), and, from their posi-
tion, command considerable influence over the country through which the
Bolan route passes, and the following sketch of them may prove useful.

Achakzaies.

A great portion of the northern slopes of that range of mountains, the
highest summits of which do not rise to an elevation of more than 8 or 9000
feet above the level of tlie sea, and which, running in a north-east direction,
forms tlie water-shed line between the waters of the Ab-istadali Lake and
the Dori and other tributaries of the Urahandab, the Gonial, Ziiub and Lora
streams, is inhabitated by the Achakzaies, a branch of the Barakzai faction of
the great Zirak Dorani division of Aff^hans.

The Achakzaies are entirely nomatiic in their habits and their Gizdis or
small black tents are their homes, which during the winter months are found
sprinkled about the foot of the Kojak and Ghwaga hills, and over the sandy
tracts below Kozhani and Taklitapur.

About " Naui'oz" (21st March) they move up and graze their large herds
of camels, &c. in the Khojak and Mandrak darrahs, remaining three or four
weeks, and move gradually upwards with the melting snows, reaching tlie
higher altitudes of the Toba mountains shortly after the appearance of spring,
when they scatter over the face of the country each to his own allotted locality ;
a sufficient number of the tribe having been left below to collect and secure
the spring harvest. They thus contrive to obtain two crops yearly ; one from
the plains and the other on the mountains.

The Toba range is described by them as blest with the most salubrious of
climates: water from springs is abundant everywhere and the Tashrubat
stream, which irrigate the Kakaro country has its sources near Toba. In
the summer month cattle are said to tlirive wonderfully on a sort of flowering
grass called by the people " Kamalla" but to take an Aflghan's account of
his own home and tribe as entirely correct would be to descril)e the former as
a paradise, and the latter as all angels, with a frequent dash of the devil

[ '1 ]

about tliem : so perhaps, the following remarks by Doctor Kennedy who accom-
panied the Bombay column when they traversed a portion of this tract in 1S39,
may give us a more correct idea of it. He says : '•' A more rugged or a more
*' desolate region can hardly be imagined than the district through which we
*' toiled our painful way betwixt the 12th and 26th October : range after range
*' of the rudest mountains were to be ascended and descended ; and the only road
" was the pebbly or rocky bed of some mountain torrent traced up to its
" source and a similar descent on the opposite side. Toba is a pitiful hamlet
" of not a hundred houses ; here we saw fine old trees of the yew kind covered
" with small purple berries ; the leaf and berry had a strong taste of juniper,
" their trunks were venerable knotted timber, and tlie spread of the branches
" broad and leafy. In the clefts of the hills along the water-courses we saw
" abundant thickets of wild roses covered with red tips ; suthem wood and
*' hedgehog plant covered the hills wherever there was a stratum of soil to
" nourish the plant."

The above account was written at a season when the Achakzaies had re-
moved to the lower lands, and " the small collection of huts at Toba is no
criterion of a population who live entirely in tents." The trees alluded to ia
the above extract are I believe not yew, but a species of sloe or black thorn
and the fruit when dried is called "Khinjak" by tbe natives and is supposed
by AfFghan Hakims to be very efficacious in kidney diseases.

It was to the sanitarium of Toba that Ahmad Shah Abdali, the founder
of the Durani dynasty resorted in 1773, to escape the summer heat of Kan-
dahar, and there died.

The Achakzaies state that they can muster 1-1,S00 families and divided into
the two great factions of Bahadurzai and Gujaazu, which is again respectively
subdivided as follows.

Divisions.

Present chiefs.

Inhabit.

Tents.

(iluibbezai,

Kakuzai,

Shamuzai,

Famzai,

Bakkarzai,

Ishdanizai,

Kakozai,

!Muddat Khan,
Samaud Khan,
Sliahuddin Khan,
Mullali Hasan,
Muddafc Klian,
Muddat Klian,
Dost Muhammad Khan,

Pez,

Arambeh,

liez,

Iscanfan,

Peisbin,

Ditto,

Takhtapur.

500
5000
1000 ,

500

200

200

300

Families or Tents.

7,700

N. B. The Eez mentioned in the above table is the hilly and sandy desert
tract between the Dori and Lora streams, and country east of the latter,
north of the Khojak range.

[ 72 ]
The Gajanzaies muster 7100 tents, as follows.

Divisions.

Present chiefs.

Inhabit.

Tents.

Ahmadzai,

Muhammad and Mirofzal Khan.

Dad,

1000

Asliezai,

Faiztallab Khan,

Kliojak Mandak,

500

Burhanzai,

Faiztallab Khan, 2nd

Pishin,

200

Sbanmakzai,

Akhbar Khan,

Kliojak,

200

Mallizai,

Muhammad Amin Khan,

Eez,

200

Kamilzai,

Ditto,

Eez,

200

Addazai,

Sayad Muhammad Khan,

Ditto,

300

Adrakzai,

Purdil and Kabir Khans,

N. Slopes Khojak,

300

llardozai,

Dadan Khan,

Joi Barkhodar,

300

Mallukzai,

Mulhih Misar Okkhan,

Ditto,

20O

Lalizai,

Baland Khan,

Ditto,

200

Mapizai,

Muhammad Khan,

Kaddunni,

300

Husainzai,

Haji Saifuddin,

Takhtapur,

300

tSulamanzai,

Majid Khan,

Ditto,

200

Abd-ullahzai,

Ahmad Khan,

Rebat,

200

Bazamzai,

bhahab Khan,

N. of Khojuck,

300

Allozai,

Darrah Khan,

Ditto,

400

Jullizai,

Uhis Khan,

Dad,

100

Mushkizai,

Nwv Muhammad Khan,

Peishin,

200

Badizai,

Arsullah Khan,

Zingili and Pishin,

600

Badizai,

Navvroz Khan,

Shorawakbandi,

200

Mallozai,

Jailall Khan,

Roghani hills,

]00

Ahmadzai,

Muddat Khan,

Jhvvaga,

200

Shukarzai,

Sahab Khan,

Khojak,

300

Usmanzai,

Nur Muhammad andFaiztallab.

Ditto,

200

The Kakaes.

In looking over the account of their genealogies given by the Affghans
themselves, we find among the Patriarchs one Sharif-ud-din who was the son of
Saraband, the eldest son of Kaish who was made a Muhammadan by the great
prophet himself and thereafter called Abdul Easid until in a fight with in-
fidels at Mecca, he is said to have slain 17 men with his own hand and
received from Muhammad the title of Pret Khan since changed into Pathan,
of which race he is the reported founder.

Sharif-uddin is said to have had five sons, all founders of clans, viz.: Sherani,
Tarin, Miuni, Barrechi and Umarud-din. The mother of Sherani, the eldest,
was a Kakar, and finding that her lord intended to make Tarin his second
son, his heir, she left his protection and returned to her own tribe and her
father's house ; her descendants liave therefore been included among Pathans
and with them the whole of the Kakars under one name.

[ 73 ]

These Kakars are found scattered over Aifghunlstan and a strong branch of
them now known as the Kakars are located on the banks of the Jhelum in the
Kashmir district, but it is not of these but of the main strength of the
clan occupj'ing the districts immediately south of the Toram Ghilzies that I
now propose to treat. This portion of the country is, I believe, as yet unex-
plored by Europeans, and it is lield by one of the few pure Pathan tribes who
still retain their independence, althougli in the case of threatened attack they
usually combine with their Turin neighbours. An example of this sort of
alliance was given when Muhammad Khan, the great grandfather of the late
jS'asir Khan, of Khillot attempted to invade the Kakar country at the head of
the Brabon and Beluch tribes, and advanced as far as Tliall, when he was de-
feated and obliged to retire by the combined Kalcar and Tarin tribes assisted by
some of the Ustaranics.

The Kakars occupy tlie elevated lands drained by the Jliobe (or Zhobe)
river, (a tributary of the Gound) and the fertile plains of liori, in the midst of
which stands their chief Tona of the same name : it is walled, and contains
several thousand inhabitants. Their country is extensive and intersected by
spurs coming down from the Toba and Sulaimani ranges, but which, owing to
the great elevation of the plains themselves rise to no great height al)0ve
them ; it is almost devoid of trees, and the few that do exist, have been
brought up witli considerable care in the immediate vicinity of villai^es.

Small portions of the land, here and there, are irrigated from karezns, but
the chief mass of the cultivation is " lallam" or dependant on rain, v.hieh,
however, seems to be more general here than in any other locality in these
parts. There is but one crop in the year, but this tribe possess largo Uoclca
and herds of camels, cattle, sheep, and goats, and export hides, ghee, wool and
goats to Peishin, the Derajat, and Kandahar.

The whole of the asaf'a>tida trade of Herat and the Xadull3' darrah, or more
properly speaking the collection of the gum from the wild }dant, is in the
hands of the Kakars, v.-ho send down from hve to six thousand people annually
to these localities, and pay considerable suras to the governors of Herat for
the privilege of the asaloetida collecting monopoly.

The present actual strength of the Kakar tribes and their divisions may be
gleaned from the following brief notice of each section.

Jelazai. — This is the most influential division of the Kakars, and Rasid
Khan, their chief, may be considered as the present head of tlie whole clan,
although the other factions do not, in ordinary times, recognise his authority.
The Jelazaies can muster some 2000 lighting men, and their main strength
lies about Khaissur and Bori.

JMusAiiiiEL. — Of which Bari Khan is chief, musters 3000 men, occupying
L

[ ^-1 1

Sarai a place at Uie foot uf the mountains on the Marri frontier, with which
tribe tliis section have interminable feud.

KuDiZAi. — Numbers 2000 strong, and is headed by Simuttya ; this section
is rather looked down upon by the rest of the clan owing to their occupying
the country about Dirzi Karez, and being obliged to pay revenue to the ruler
of Peishin, to whose territory they adjoin.

UsTMAKKHEL. — Of this scctiou Dadey Klian is chief; they can turn out
about 2000 men. It was an offshoot of this section, which after assisting
Sultan Mahmud of Ghazui in his expedition to Hindustan, in A. D. 997, set-
tled in the hilly range, forming the northern boundaiy of the Peshawar valley
and to the north west of Ranezir, where they are to be found in the present day.
ABDULLA.ZAI. — Musters 2000, and are headed by Sirdar Khan, who resides
with the main strength of his section at Mayanna.

Kabbiza.1. — Who hold the lands of Tarbezai on the Zhobe road, are headed
by IMamur Khan, are chiefly shepherds and turn out 1000 strong.

Hamzazi. — Is headed by Dadu Khan and Kutu Khau, turns out 1100 men,
and occupies Shahraug.

SnABBOZAT, Tbnizai and Alizai : each musters 200 strong, with Khannan
Khan, Alam Khan and P.dikar Khan as chiefs. The Alizai have another
faction 300 strong under Khandi Khan at China. The head-quarters of the
first three are at Dirzi and Sazri.

Khidbarzai occui)ies Maskat, and has Shakkur Khan at its head,nmsterlng
200 strong.

The total fighting strength of the Kakars, including the Targhanni, and
Zhobe factions, would thus be, from 14 to 20,000 men ; to the former of
these sections belonged the infamous Hnji Khan Kakar.

The Kakars may be said to be on friendly terms with, and consider them-
selves brethren of, the Ghilzies ; their head mulah is Abd-ul-llasul, a native
of Bori, an intelligent grey-headed man, who for the last 20 years has been
the political representative of his clan at Kandahar ; he describes the climate
of his native plains as being the exact happy medium between the extreme
heat of Hindustan and cold of Kandahar; and tells the following anecdote
illustrative of the primitive simplicity of his tribe : When Shah Lajob-ul-Mulk
was driven to take refuge among the Kakars after his defeat at Kandahar, the
whole of the clan thronged round his camp to see a live king, and were utterly
astonished to find that Eoyalty possesses the same form and features as other
specimens of the human race.

Besides the Kakars above mentioned, there are some 400 families residing
in the villages of Kochkhana, Balakaz and Deh Khojah in the Kandahar
neiohbourhood ; these are under Malliks Shcr Khan, Azim Khan and Nur
Muhammad, respectively.

[ 75 ]

From the extreme antiquity of tliis clan, there Is no end to the ramifica-
tions into which it has run, and tlie following trihes all claim connection with,
or descent from the Kakars. Arabia khel, or race of JMuUalis. The Tymunis
of Gour, the Ferozkobi Hazara and the Khanjanl tribe of iSirstan (who are
generally called Beluchis but are in reality and acknowledge themselves
descended from the Sangarkhel Kakara,) as well as the Utmankhels and
Kakars already noticed.

Tarins.

The Tarins are divided into two great divi;;ionp, known as the Safcd and
Tur Tarins : the former being independent, while the latter inhabit the valley
of Pi.ishin bordering on the Achakzaies, and are subject to the Kandahar
government.

The ISafed Tarins hold the country in which are the sources of the
Alamrud and its numerous tributaries : they, like their Kakar neighbours, are
generally engaged in pastoral pursuits and in the culture of just sullicient
cereals for home consumption,

I have already in this paper, in my remarks on the Kakars, remarked that
they are generally on friendly terms with the Tarins, but this statement
must be taken in the sense in which such an expression is used among Pathans
who take no account of the continual petty feuds going on between all neigh-
bours: but in the hour of danger these clans might be expected to com-
bine, as they have indeed frequently done, to oppose a comn)on enemy. Por-
tions of these clans are often doing so to make inroads against their inveterate
enemies the Marris, or to oppose such raids made against their own country
from the same quarter.

Upon the advance of the British troops into Affghanistan in 1838, by the
Bolan route, several plundering forays were made upon our camels at graze, bag-
gage on the march, &c. &c. by bands of marauders said to be Kakars and Tarins ;
but it must be remembered that it is always most convenient as well as a com-
mon practice among Affghans to give all the credit of such exploits, to some re-
mote tribe, or to one whom they know it would be inconvenient for the powers
that be, to punish ; though it will be almost invariably found that the real per-
petrators are among those living in the neighbourhood ; so that,notvvithstanding
the little intercourse we have ourselves had with the Tarins has tended to do any
thing but pre-possess us in their favour, I have given them credit for the char-
acter of general peacefulncss, which they hold among their neighbours. There i
are com[>arisons among thieves, and when in a country like AflTghanistan.
where an honest man is seldom if ever met with, one can only sj)eak compari-
tively ; for the very i)est of them would, in a civilized country, be eonsideied
as scoundrels of tlie blackest dye, and consigned to the 'joumion hangman.
L 2

[ 76 ]

The Safed Tarius are divided into four sections; SnADOzai, Ml'upa'NI,
Laskani and Adwani, of the first of these Hazar Khan is chief, and resides
with the strength of his clan, amounting to some 800 men at Thall, which
although the capital of his district, is a mere collection of mud huts.

The MuEPANi muster 800 strong under Harun Khan,

The Lasrani are 1,200 men under Ashraf Khan, while the Abwani
acknowledge Aziz Khan as their chief, and are distrihuted over Thall, Sotali
and liaha, in the following proportions : 300 men in the first under Biland
Khan Attarzai ; 1,200 in Sotali, while Sirdar Gulzar Khan Umarzai with
1,500 men heads the Ilaha party.

The total number of fighting men which the Safed Tarins could muster
would thus be about 6000 ; their country is very similar in its physical
features to that of the Kakars already described.

There are two small off-shoots of the Ustaranies of the Derajat, together
with the Punni Lehvvanies settled in a few villages in the neighbourhood (be-
tween Thall and Bori ;) of these Nur Muhammad Khan, Umarkhel, and AH
Muhammad Khan Daudzai are ths most influential men ; they number about
500 families, all engaged in trade with the Derajat and Kandahar, and occa-
sionally going down to Sebi and Dadar. The routes usually followed by them
are as follows.

lloute from Kandahar to Dera Ghazi Khan.

Killah AbduUa, 91| miles, along the well known high road going down the
Bolan pass, viz. Khusbah 7 miles, 4 furlongs.

f -■

Deh Haji,

12

1

Dori (river),

8

4

Nahal Mandah,

]5

4

Killab Fateb-ullah,

]2

0

Dandi Gulai,

10

4

Khojak Pass,

14

9

Killah Abdulla,

11

0

bp 2
1 5 '^

*^ o

Total 9U

From this point, the route strikes off to Shahdad, 6 coss or three hours
march.

This is a Tarin village situated in a narrow valley ; the road in this day's
march is through the well cultivated and thickly inhabited valley of Peishin.

Maeghat, 2 marches, the first is 9 hours work to a village (name forgotten)
situated at the head of the same glen as Shahdad only higher up. Marghat
is inhabited by Siraantha Kakars, partially subject to the ruler of Peishin.
Water plentiful from harezaha and springs.

SiMANTHA, is the head-quarters of the section of Kakars who bear the

[ 77 ]

same name. It is situated in a amphitheatre of hills, the soils producing
rich crops irrigated from karezahs and springs ; this is a very long march
through an undulating and partially cultivated country, with here and there
a cluster of houses.

DuHOAi, 8 hours, a difficult Kothal has to he crossed in this march, and
there is a great scarcity of water both on the road and at Durgai itself, where
it is only procurable from one karezah.

SiRi BoRi, 8 hours. This is atolenible road crossing several small Kothals ;
couutr}'', alternate hill and dale, the latter generally cultivated, and occupied
by Kakars. Siri Bori is the name given to the last village, situated at the
head of the Bori plain, water plentiful.

Bour, 8 hours. This is a large walled town and capital of the Kakars ; the
name is also given to the district generally, which is tolerably level, cultivated
and sprinkled with Kakar villages ; water from numerous springs and karezahs.

Makutar, 8 hours. Through a country very similar to that iu yesterday's
march. Makhtar is a small Kakar village or rather encamping place, for the
people are all nomadic, subsisting on the produce of their flocks and herds.
Water very scarce, and onl}' procurable from a brackish spring.

Bazuani, 9 hours. This is a Luni village, a little off the road, on the
side of which there is a tank where mercliants and travellers usually encamp ;
the road in this march is decidedly bad through a hilly district ; water every
wlicre scarce.

liUKHAn, 8 hours. A village belonging to the Kathran Bclucliis, without
whose protection and escort it is not safe to cross this district, infested as it
is by plundering parties of Marris. Couiitry, as in yesterday's march, with a
few scattered hamlets in some of thedarrahs. " Water at Ilukhar from a
good spring."

Makani, (also called Sakhi Sirwar's Ziarat.) This is a long and difficult
day's march. Immediately after leaving the last ground the road crosses a
stream which divides itself into two branches; (one of these goes dotvn the
Buzdar country and Sarragh pass, and by this road many of the difficulties
of this march can be avoided). Country, bleak and barren, water to be found
in occasional springs in the different " darrahs." A high steep range of
mountains have to be crossed by a path known as the Paiwat Kothal ; the
road is reported very difficult for camels and yabos. Makani is a small Ziarat
with one or two fakir's houses, and a few trees near a spring, at the entrance
to the hills and on our own frontier.
' From Makani it is (as is well known) but two marches of 8 and 9 hours
respectively, passing through the village of Choti, to Dera Ghazi Khan.

I It will be remembered that this route from Dera Ghazi Khan as far as Bori

[ 78 ]

(from which point we struck oft' for Ghnzni) was followed b_v the Emperor
Baber in 1505, ;uid he complained of liis cavaliy having- been starved for
want of grain.

EOUTE FROM TlIALL XO SeBC.

Parka, 9 eoss. Road for the greater part of the way through a narrow
" darrah," and then over a difficult Kothal, known as the Marri Parra. Parra
is a small village belonging to the Vensl Tarins, (a subdivision of one of those
already given,) water is procured from a spring. Wood and grass are both
plentiful, but no supplies can be expected.

Narkas. All this day's march, about the same distance as yesterday's, is
down the bed of a mountain-torrent ; the halting-place is at a small collec-
tion of huts occupied by a few syads and their disciples, water from springs.

Badra, 8 eoss. A Marri village in a tolerably well cultivated and open
tract, where water is procured from numerous springs; road as in last march,
along the bed of the stream.

Sebi is a well known Khojak settlement ; road difficult over broken un-
dulating countrj'. Water from the Beji road. Sebi is a walled town, and it
was from here that Colonel Wilson's detachment were obliged to retreat in
1841. Sebi pays revenue to Kandahar, and is about 40 miles north east of
Dadar.

The whole of this route is completely in the hands of the Marrls, and no men
can pass along it, without paying them for safe escort. Kallahs, if they ever
do take this road, have to pay one rupee in thirty on the value of their pro-
perty.

There is another route, somtimes followed, direct from Thall to Kakan, the
head-quarters of the Turis, of which the following is a brief sketch ; each
march is from 8 to 9 eoss.

From I'liall to Shinrud. At about three eoss from Tliall, arrive at a range
of hills which are crossed by sowars and footmen by the Khanmak Kothal
described as difficult and steep ; to avoid this, laden cattle are taken round along
the bed of the Abanrud, which joins Shinrud; this longer route is known
as the Rahi Pajjai ; Shinrud is a " darrah," with one or two hamlets in it,
watered from the bed of the stream. It is neutral ground, on the border
between the Marris and Tarins.

Mattutae, a spot belonging to the Marris, where the land is only occasion-
ally cultivated. The road crosses another range of hills i)y the Sundi Kotiial,
but which, like that in tlie last march, can be turned. Water procured from
springs.

Mahmud: this is a considerable sized Marri village, with a large extent of

[ 79 ]

cultivation about it, all of which is unirrigated. Water from springs ; the
road in this march is said to b? good, but winding through hills by the Kalu-
hair pass.

Fatmah KA:!fDEE. Another large village with cultivation round it ; water
from springs. Country hilly and broken.

Tarikuux). Road good ; but still traversing the same style of country as
yesterday. Tarikrud is the name of a glen, sprinkled with hamlets, and
down which runs a small stream.

Kaiian. lload through occasional villages, and down the bed of mountain-
torrents. Country bleak and barren. Along the whole course of tliis route,
no supplies could be procured ; but grass is plentiful; and tlie nomadic Marris
possess large flock and herds.

The TuR Tarins are all cultivators, occupying the Peishin valley, paying
revenue to the rulers of Kandahar, (Sirdar Kallu Khan Barakzai is the pre-
sent governor of Peishin,) and muster about 3000 families divided into 15
khels, as shown in the following table. The Karballa division are somehow
connected with the well known Syads of Peishin, who arc co-jjartners with the
Tarins in that valley. These Syads are among the chief traders in western
Atighanistan, and are deeply engaged in the horse and slave-trade.

Tun Takixs.

APPENDIX D.

Yellow- e

r Baz ((

^'^- iBaslm

A few notes on Affghan field-sports.

It would be impossible for a stranger to live any time among Affgbans and
not to be struck witb tbeir passionate fondness for field-sports of many sorts,
but more especially hawking. The late Wazir Muhammad Akbar Khan spent
a great part of his leisure time in this diversion, and his sons as well as many
of the chief Sirdars follow his example ; his great delight was in deer hawking,
which must be placed at the head of this class of sport.

The birds usually trained in Affghanistan, are of two classes ; distinguished,
I believe, in Europe as the long and short-winged
'^^ "^^' hawks ; but whicli in the east are better known

by the color of the eyes, Avhich are either yellow or black : the female of both
varieties is the larger, and more valuable bird ; and the following are the
native names for the different species, in each of these families.
Females. Males.

Baz (Goshawks) Jurra.

lin (Sparrow hawks) Basha.

Shikra Chippakh.

f Chargh (Falco Cervialis) Charghelah.

I Balui (True coursing falcon) Balui Bacha.

Shahin (Peregrine Falcon) Koellah.

Lagar Jhagar.

Turmuti Tuni.

^Regi (Falco shuter) Jlaknoni.

The initiatory training of all is the same, but the yellow eyed-hawk is
never hooded after its education is completed ;
unless it be in the case of a sparrow hawk, and
she only when at rest in the house. The black-eyed birds, on the contrary, are
never unhooded except at the instant when required to fly at game, or for
practice ; and it is truly wonderful to see the quickness with which these birds
will at once distinguish the quarry at almost incredible distances, on being
suddenly unhooded in the full glare of a tropical noonday sun. The former
are short-flighted, and seldom lost ; while the latter from the length of wing,
tower to an immense height and follow their game to any distance ; circum-
stances which often lead to the best of hawks being frequently lost, even iu
experienced hands.

Black-eyed. -^

Pecular training of eacla sort.

[ 81 ]

Tlie age of a bird is at once distinguishable from its phmnage and tbe

colour of the legs and beak ; so much so indeed
Age of Hawks. ■ , , , • • , i i !■ ^i ^ i.

that, to an inexperienced eye, a liawk ot the nrst

year (called chuz) would appear of a totally ditierent species from the same

bird a year older; (then culled tarenak). Birds of the first year are always

the fastest, but they are more liable to be lost than those which have been

longer domesticated.

All the hawk species moult during spring, while the female is sitting ou

her eLTgs ; and are again in full plumage about
Moulting. 1 . 1 1 •

the time that their young are three parts grown.

In a domesticated state, the moulting season (kuriz) commences about March
or April, when the birds are usuall}' placed in some quiet retired cool corner
of a room, tied by the jesses with about a yard of strong string to a low
perch, and within easy reach of a large vessel of water, in which they are ex-
ceedingly fond of bathing ; they are fed in the evening, but without being
handled or moved. About the 10th or 12tli day, the bird will be found to
liave shed the outer feather in each wing ; in G or 8 more the two next feathers
will be shed, and so the process (which is much slower in the domesticated
bird) goes on till the principal featliers of the wings have been renewed, when
the two outer ones of the tail are shed, as soon ab tlie tail is also renewed, all
the smaller leathers are thrown off' in handfuls daily. Should the hawk, how-
ever, be liandled in the least, or even moved from one corner of the room to
another, the moulting stops short for 12 or 14 days at least, and sometimes is
not recommenced, so that the bird has to work on for a second season with
tlie old feathers. During the moulting, butter is given in considerable quan-
tities with the food of the bird.

The liiiz and Jurra breed in the loftiest mountains, and are only captured in

such localities ; it is said by natives that the
Uaunts of hawks. • i i

higiier the range from which they are taken,

the better will the birds prove. These are considered by the Atfghans as the
most valuable of hawk tribes, and fetch when trained, from 40 to 100 Com-
pany's Rupees each.

The smaller yellow-eyed hawks frequent low hills and the banks of deep
precipitous ravines, (known in this country as " alguds)." Charghs build
on low mounds in any moderate climate like that of Kandahar, Balkh, &c., &c.,
while Shahins and Lagars make their nests on the face of precipitous cliffs.

The Bahri is only found along the banks of rivulets or near niarslies abound-
ing with waterfowl ; and the smaller varieties of the bluck-eyed hawks fre-
quent deep ravines and low hills.

In Affyhaiiistan, there are four methods usually a^lopted to procure hawks
M

[ S2 ]

for training. First, Charglis and Bahries, inteiuleil fur coursing deer, and

Si)aluns are taken from the nest when just ahout

Modes of catcliing hawks tOii •, -i i ij ii liii

, • " to leave it, and brouijht up by tiand : the lonjrer

train. ' ^ f .i > d

they are left with their parents the better,
provided tliey do not learn to hunt on their own account.

2nd. A net, called a dogazza, made of fine but very strong silk thread
(with large open meshes,) ahout 6 feet hy 4 deep, is suspended in a perpen-
dicular position on two slender reeds, and a pigeon or some smaller bird is
tied by the foot to a peg on the ground in front of and within about a foot
and a half or two feet of the bottom of the net, in such a position that it
may flutter about and attract the attention of the wild hawk ; the falconer
of course concealing himself at some little distance. Tlie hawk stoops at the
bird, which is too near the net to admit of her rising again high enough from
the ground to avoid it, and the velocity at which she strikes is so great as to
carry off the net from the slender reeds, enveloping the hawk under the net ;
the falconer instantly rushing up, secures the hawk by thrusting its head for-
most into a piece of cloth sewn in the shape of a cone, with just an aperture
sufficient to admit of the head passing out at the apex. The bird's eyes are
now closed, either b^^ having a hood placed on the head, or more frequently by
a thread being passed through each under-eyelid, and the two twisted toge-
ther on tlie top of the head,

3rd method. First catch a Jhaggar or Shikra in a dogazza, as above
described ; half close his eyes, fasten his beak so that he cannot peck, and
then tie a bunch of feathers thickly interspersed with strong horsehair nooses, on
to his legs which are tied together. (A bird so prepared is called a " Bairak) ;"
as soon as a Cliargh, Bahri, Shahin, or Lagar, is seen coursing in the air, on
the look out for game, the falconer seeking shelter in tlie nearest bush, tosses
the Bairak up as high as he can into the air ; the Jhaggar thus set free, soars
off, while tlie wild hawk, mistaking the feathers on his ieet for a captured bird
in his talons, dashes at and seizes them, entangling his own claws in the
nooses, and the two birds roll together to the ground, where they are secured.

The 4th method is nothing more nor less tlian four dogazzas, set back to
back in the form of a square, in the midst of which is pegged down a partridge
or chakor. This sort of trap is used exclusively for Bazes and Jurras, and is
generally set on some high and open hill ; the nets are, however, much larger in
every way than the one 1 have described, though acting on the same principle.

The chief points looked to in the selection of hawks besides species and
ao-e, are great leiigtli from crown of head to tip of tail, breadth of chest,
and extreme sjiaii of talons, with a brigiit clear eye. Besides these, each
falconer has his own fanciful ideas of particular spots and shades of colour,

[ 8=^ ]

but these latter will be fouinl coiitradictecl, in ever}' day's experience, and in

each new district.

To train Charghs and Bahries to course deer it is necessary to give the food

of each bird daily on the stuffed head of a gazol
Training. . -^ , " .

(Cliikarrah or Ahu Dashti,) tiie crust being

placed in the eye-holes and when the young birds can fly they are called to

this line; when full grown and obedient, they are shown a young fawn, or kid

of the same colour, and if thej seize it, the anintal is killed for them, and a

little of the warm blood given to the birds. A greyhound is next set after

the fawn, and the hawk flown at it : if the latter strikes, all that is required

in the way of training has been accomplished, and the birds may be taken in

quest of wild game ; but if not, a few more kids are sacrificed as above, in

order to give the hawks confidence ; it is usu.il to train hawks to tl\' in pairs for

tliis sort of sport. Tlie greatest care, however, is necessary not to allow these

hawks ever to see other falcons flown at birds ; though they may when first

brought out, the second ykar, be allowed to kill a hare or two, to get

them into wind. The best laleoners in this line, are Turkistanis; Cliarghs

cannot, as a rule, kill deer without the assistance of greyhounds ; although

there are instances on record of their having done so.

Shahins taken from the nest, are always fed on a lure made from the dried
wings of the middle sized bustard, " Ubara ;" and when old enough and per-
fectly obedient, large fowls and a snared bustard or two are turned down for
them to kill ; which finishes their education.

These birds are, however, always most useful when trained in pairs, and
should be made to soar high before they are fed, for a want of such training
makes them low-flighted and spiritless.

As soon as a newly captured bird of any other description is brought home,
it is laid on the floor and allowed to roll about, being occasionally touched
with a stick, until it gives over all attempts to claw and peck ; its eyes are
now ojiened, anil a hood put on, the cloth also being opened sufliciently to
achnit of the bird's standing up ; jesses or small leather straps, about 18 in-
ches long, are fastened, one on each leg just above the claws; and a pair of
small bells fixed immediately above the jesses, which completes the dressing of
black-eyed hawks ; the yellow-eyed species require a strong silk loop adjusted
very loosely round the neck, with an end about 8 or 9 inches long left hanging
down the bi'east ; this string is held under the middle finger of the right-
hand, to balance the bird while in the act of being thrown off, for there is a
great art in casting off all short-flighted hawks so as to give them as good a
start as possible ; while the others are merely unhooded and start of their
own aeeoid as soon as they see their game.

M -1

[ 81. ]

In a very short lime, tlie cloth is removed from the body, and the hawk
made to sit on the gloved liand. About the second day of its captivity, the
hawk will usually take a little food, although some refuse it for three or four
days. As a general rule, the sooner a bird feeds and the longer she takes to
subdue, the more valuable she will turn out.

In training j'ellow-eyed hawks, a small hole is next bored in the hood for
the bird to peep through, and daily enlarged ; the hawk is constantly handled,
carried about in bazars and crowded places to accustom it to people, and kept
awake day and night. For black-eyed hawks the hood is constantly removed
and replaced, (at first in the dark and by degrees in day light) for the same
purpose. As soon as the bird has become perfectly quiet and tame in hand, a
pair of dried wings of the quarry to which it is to be trained, are tied together ;
and the food always given on this lure ; the bird being induced to come a short
distance (from one hand to the other) for it ; when a greater distance becomes
necessary, a long string with a ring in it, to which is attached about 4 feet of
strong light string, tied to the jesses of the hawk, is used ; an assistant holding
the bird and one end of the long string, while the falconer goes to the other with
the food on the lure, calls the hawk ; on the hood being removed, the hawk flies to
the lure, while the ring traversing along the string, enables her to reach it where
she is fed, this practice is continued for several days ; after which the liawk is kept
very hungry, and let fly at large, the lure being now and then shown, to keep her
within bounds ; and after a short flight she is fed ; a few days of this practice
and the hawk is ready for a " bowli." This is generally a specimen of the
quarry the hawk is to hunt hereafter, turned down alive for her to kill, but
it the bird cannot be had conveniently, the largest fowls are used as bowlies ;
when the hawk has struck it, she is allowed a full meal (the first she has had
since she was caught) on the flesh and blood, and after this she is ready for
the field. It must be always borne in mind in training hawks, that it is easy
to bring any bird to kill small game after she has been broken in to large, but
that the reverse is almost impossible.

Any of these hawks can be easily tiained to kill small game, such as part-
ridges chakor, teal, quail and snipe; but the following is a list of the
quarry to which each sort is generally broken in.

Eaz for ducks; " ubara," jungal fowl, peafowl, pheasants and liares.

Jurra, ducks, pheasants, jungal fowl, and partridges of sorts. Charc^hs to
deer, herons, cranes, bustard, ubara, curlew and hares and kites.

Bahries, deer, ducks, herons, cranes, ubara, ge< se, curlew and hares. The
male of these two last can only kill partridges, plover and rooks.

Sliahins in pairs: bustard, ducks, haies, pheasants, jungal Ibwl, partrid"-es,
and rooks. Male as above mentioned in the case of Baliri bachas.

[ 85 ]

A most murderous practice is to take a brace of Slialiins and let tlieni fly
over a small jliil covered with ducks, wliile the fowler shoots the ducks on
the water ; the hawks will not allow a single duck to leave the water, and
tiie la!«t one of the flock ma}' be thus secured provided that care be taken not
to shoot one on dry land. If this occurs, the hawks will instantly fasten on
the dead bird, and allow the remainder of the ducks to escape.

The lagar is chiefly kept for hares, crows, partridges and the like, and the
male bird for catehing larger falcons, as I have already shown ; all the smaller
Viiricties of hawks are kept for quail and partridges, except the Rezi which
is usually trained to hunt in couples and kills larks and small birds after a
long chase.

For an Englishman to follow this sport enjoyably, the best of trainers and
first rate horses are absolutely necessary ; for without the assistance of the
first his falcons will never be in trim for long flights, while the want of the
latter will invariably lead to the loss of his finest hawks ; for even with all
appliances of tlie very best description, it will frequently happen that a strong
ubara, or black curlew and a <;oud bahri will so far outstrip the speed of a
first rate horse as to get completely out of sight ; and if not Ibund at once, she
will soon gorge herself; and when in this state these black-eyed birds will
seldom look at a lure or obey anything but the dictates of their own wild
natures; althougli one or two rare instances are on record of their having
gone home to the spot where they were trained. Colonel Coke, C. 13. had a
chargh which got away in the neighbourhood of Nilab, on the left bank of the
Judas, and was found again on the top of his residence at Ivohat.

The feeding and physicking of hawks, and a knowledge of all their various
disorders, is in itself the study of a life-time ; and the latter a subject on which
each falconer professes to have, as a matter of course, some vei-y dark secrets ;
BO that I cannot pretend to give even an outline of their practice ; suffice it to
say that when a yoUow-eyed hawk is tno high in fle.sli, a small dose of white
sugar is given as a purgative ; while charghs and black-eyed birds have a
pinch of borax tied up in a piece of soft thin flannel, shoved down their
throats, which in half an hour, acts as an emetic.

But after all the great art in falconry is, so nicely to adjust the feeding of
each bird that it shall be in the very highest condition and flesh compatible
with hard work and wind ; but at the same time to have it so sharp set with
hunger as to be extremely keen after its quarry, and at all times obedient to
the call and lure. All hawks must have a certain portion of fur, bones, and
feathers given them with their food ; which will be all rolled up into a ball,
and thrown out of the mouth some 10 or 12 hours after they have been given ;
this ball is called in England, I believe, the casting of a hawk, and in Afighan-

[ 86 ]

istan " iiaririorali." If tliis process is nut gone tlivougli, the bird soon sickens
and dies.

A sure sign of poor or improper feeding is a peculiar fine worm-eaten looking
line carried across the web of each of the larger feathers of a havvkj which will
not disappear till the next moulting season. When a bird is too fat, it will
not hunt ; and if too thin ; it cannot do so; in the first instance, the meat is
well soaked in water before given to the hawk, and in the latter more flesh
mixed with a little blood will soon fatten the bird.

Almost the worst accident wliich can happen to a hawk, short of breaking
a limb, is to get loose with its hood on ; for it will tlien frequently soar into
the air with a peculiar hovering fluttering stroke of the wing, until it is com-
pletely lost in the sky ; and at last falls down exhausted to die ; the only
chance in such cases being for the falconer, before the bird has got to any
great height, to keep striking the palms o( his hands sharply together, the
noise of which sometimes attracts the poor bird's notice and brings it down-
wards within reach.

Should any of the principal feathers of a hawk's wing or tail get broken,
from dashing against a bush or on the ground while she is in the act of killing
her quarr}^ the feather should be spliced ; and for this purpose all the good
feathers thrown ofi' at the time of moulting, or those of a dead hawk, should
be carefully preserved in a book or other convenient place, the splice is made
by cutting the feather in the bird's wing diagonally across, and adjusting
another feather cut exactl}' to fit it ; a needle is then pushed liead liist into
the pith of the stump in the hawk's wing, and the portion of the new feather
passed down over the point of the needle, till the splice is almost closed ; a
little good glue is now painted over both edges of the splice, and the feathers
pressed firmly together. If the operation is neatly done, the mended feather
is just as useful as the original one, and will last till the moulting season.

Natives generally prefer the yellow-eyed hawks, as they are never lost, and
give no trouble in following, while they will kill any number of partridges, &e.
tliat can be found in a day. But for real sport, there is nothing to equal the
chargh or bahri, and deer hawking is the cream of this sort of sport.

An Affghan has not the slightest idea of shooting moving objects, nor

indeed are the huge cumbrous weapons generally
Shooting. . . 11.

m use in the country adapted tor such practice ;

this class of field-sports is therefore more circumscribed than with us ; deer

stalking in the hills is only practiced by the enthusiastic professional shikaris

of the mountain ranges, whose whole lives are spent among the haunts of

ibex, " maskhore," thar and wild sheej' ; but birdars and men ui' .-ubstance

[ 87 ]

have neither the physical energy nor perseverance required for such sport, so
that the only hill shooting in which they indulge is carried on by " haiikwa."
or as it is called here " Jirgha Shikar," and consists in having the shooters
placed in some pass or well known run of the game, which is driven towards
them by a host of shikaries and other attendants. Ahu Gardani, or deer-

,, ^ . stalking in the open plain, however, is a very

Ahu Gardani. /. •

favourite amusement of the sirdars, and is con-
ducted in the following manner.

Three or four sportsmen, with their attendants, resort to the sandy open
plains where ravine deer abound, and the shooters having scattered out to the
distance of about two gun-shots from each other, lie down flat on the ground,
the flatter the better. The shikaries and attendants move off in quest of a
herd of deer, and endeavour by keeping at a very long distance from them, not
to frighten the animals, but by cautious and exceedingly quiet approaches, to
make them quietly browse towards the shooters ; and generally (9 times out of
10) succeed so well that standing shots are made at from 40 to 80 yards,
seldom over the latter distance. Practice on the part of the shikaries and
attendants, together witii extreme patience in the shooters, is all that is required
to secure ten or a dozen deer a day in this way ; but it is at best but nutive
sport. Wild hog are mobbed with dogs, cut down with talwars, shot, and
in fact murdered in every possible way, the poor aniijial never being allowed
the slightest chance for his life. As for spearing a boar in the open plain, an
Affghan cannot see the fun of such sport, but on the contrary considers the
whole proceeding as a tempting of Providence and an unnecessary exposure of
both men and horses.

Wild fowl shooting is practised by almost every person in the Kohistan, at

Cabul, and in the Kandahar district ; the usual
Wild fowl shooting. • - i -i i

mode 01 proceeding is to bund a small hut with

loopholed walls on the margin of some jhil or pond of water, and at about
some twenty yards from it a whole flock of stuffed ducks of all sorts is placed
out on the water to attract passing birds ; these decoy-ducks, or " bhiits" as
they are called, are merely the skins of ducks stufi'ed with a little straw, and
fastened on the top of a stick which is pushed into the soft mud at the bottom
of the jhil till the bird ajipears to float naturally on the water ; whole flocks
of ducks are thus allured down and shot ; on a good day, altt-r a shower of
rain, a single Affghan will frequently secure 40 or 50 ducks, Tlie wings of
cranes are also stretched on a stick, and placed standing separately and upright
in the water, and attract passing flocks of cranes from almost incredible dis-
tances. All the common modes of taking wild fowl practiced in Hindustan
are also resorted to here, but do not require explanation ; a novel method

b

[ 88 ]

liowever, wliicli I have not heard of elsewhere, is adopted in the Kohistan.
An artificial tank is formed by damming up some small stream or rill, and a
small hut built at a sluice gate made in the dam, through the middle of which
the cut carrying off the water is carried ; a few decoy or tame ducks are placed
on the pond, and wild fowl allowed to visit the spot unmolested for several
days, till they get quite accustomed to all around them ; the fowler now gets
into the hut, and remains perfectly quiet till he sees a large flock of ducks
sleeping on the water, he then opens the sluice gate and the water gently
running out floats down the ducks quietly into the liouse by ones and twos,
where tliey are secured without those outside being any the wiser. I am told
that two men will thus capture over a hundred ducks in 24< hours ; sometimes
the middle of the day is best for this sort of wliolesale murder, and at others
night. The chakor and liessil are shot in flocks at springs in the hills,
during the hot season, and from behind a sort of shield made of two sticks
tied across each other and covered with cloth dyed a dirty yellow colour, having
black eyes painted all over it ; this strange object so astonishes the birds that
they all huddle into a small space, and by degrees approach closer and closer
till they arrive within easy range, and are knocked over six and seven at a
shot. Another form of this screen is made of two short sticks stuck into the
sportsmen's turban, with a piece of the same sort of yellow cloth fastened
between them, and allowed to hang down well over the face like a mask,
having two holes to peep through. The man's body is hid behind a rock and
tliis strange face presented to the birds while they are at some considerable
distance oft', which makes them pack close and come up to be shot, as in the
last instance, but both these methods of killing birds are most strongly con-
demned by all orthodox Muhammadans, who say that the poor birds mistake the
rags covered with eyes, for the face of the great prophet, and come up to pay
their respects ; and that all those which are killed under such circumstances,
become martyrs ; this is but a poor compliment to the personal appearance
of the arch imposter, but what will Muhammadan faith stick at ? Shikariea
with less theological ideas call the mask a " gedari."

Quails are usually netted, first by a net being thrown over a corner of a

corn field, and two poles on which are huncr
Netting. . =>

several cages with calling quail in them being

stuck up immediately behind the net ; this arrangement is usually made very
early in the morning, and when the sun is up, a long rope is stretched across
the other end of the field by two persona, who work it backwards and for-
wards, so as to make a gentle rustling sound, and gradually carried forwards
towards the net ; when close to the latter, the fowlers rusli up and secure tlie
quails which have been driven under the net, hundreds are thus caught of a
morning in the height of the season.

[ 89 ]

The second method, also a most successful one, is for several men to carry
the net over the fields ; two men holding the corners of the net ui front, and
keeping it up by stretching, while the remainder of the party form a lino
along the back of tlie net and act as beaters ; when a quail is put up under the
net, all let go and the bird is at once secured ; this is more generally practised
in the evening.

Another form of net is called a dogazza, and consists of a triangular piece
of net stretched between two long and strong reeds, which is carried b}' a
single individual before him, through the fields and secures a quail as it rises.

The dogs of Affghanistan, used for sporting purposes are of three sorts, the

greyhound, pointer and " khundi." The first
are not famed for speed, and would have little
chance in a fair course with a second rate English dog, but they are said to
liave some endurance, and when trained are used to assist charghs in catching
deer, to mob wild hog, and to course hares, foxes, &c., &c. AlVghans, however,
run every thing to kill ; and it is not an uncommon sight to see half a dozen
of these dogs after a single hare.

The pointers are obtained from the hills in the Jalalabad district, and the
Kohistan ; they are large, heavy, slow hunting, but very line-nosed animals,
and staunch to a fault, their heads are heavy and very square, and altogetlu-r
the dog reminds one very strongly of the old double-nosed Spanish pointer.

" Khundis," are the most useful, and at the same time the most cross-
bred animals in the country ; they have an undoubted cross of the pointer in
them, but the rest of their parentage is beyond conjecture ; but fur working
out game from thick cover, there is no breed of dog that I have ever seen
like tiicm. The training of a " khundi" commences from the day tliat it
can eat meat ; small pieces of flesh are roasted and trailed along the ground in
every direction, and at last thrust under thick bushes of thorns and buried in
holes; the J'oung " khundi" is then called, and has to hunt up each separate
morsel of its food ; this sort of practice every day makes them most deter-
mined hunters, and accustoms them to work their way through the thickest
bushes ; they are chiefly used for turning up quail, and partridges to hawks ;
and it is a beautiful sight to see a good khundi work out a black partridge,
which has been frightened by a hawk, from the middle of a tliick vinej^ard ;
and their endurance is such that they can work through the whole of a hot
day without showing the slightest signs of fatigue.

Afi*ghan sirdars have of late taken a great fancy to English dogs of every
description, and frequently amuse themselves baiting jackalls, badgers, &c.
with animals which they call " sag-i-tiger," but which are really nothing
more or loss than the various crosses of the bull dog which are always to be

N

[ ^0 ]

found about the barracks of any European Regiment. These sirdars however
will never have a good breed of dogs as they do not take the slightest trouble
about them, but allow all to cross just as it may happen. Were it not for
this carelessness, the climate of Affghanistan is so exceedingly favourable to
the developement of the canine race, that I am quite confident, dogs equal to
the best imported English, could be bred from really good stock with the most
ordinary care.

Wolves, jackalls, foxes, and vermin of all sorts are hunted and trapped for
their skins, which are made up into clothing for the cold season ; but this is
more in the way of trade than sport. Wolves are taken in deep trenches cut
in the form of a circle, leaving a large island, as it were, in the middle on
which the carcass of some dead animal is placed as a bait. These trenches are
about 10 feet deep, four feet wide at top, and not more than one and a half
at bottom. Tlie wolf naturally drops into the trench instead of taking it at
a bound, and when once in, it continues to run round and round the circle, but
owing to the narrowness of the trench, has not a chance of working his way
up the bank.

The wolves during winter pack together, and while the snow is on the
ground are so sharp set with hunger, that they frequently attack single travel-
lers on the main roads or even horsemen.

In conclusion I may remark that Affghanistan affords a splendid field to its
native sportsmen, for on its mountains are to be found maskhore, ibex, thar,
wild sheep, and most of the deer common to the Himalaya ranges ; while in
the plains, ravine deer, " yews," a species of leopard, wild hog, and black lynx,
together with ducks, woodcock, partridges, &c., &c. are most abundant ; but
the people of the country are so extremely bigoted and jealous of foreigners,
that a stranger in these countries runs a much greater chance of being stalked
himself than of stalking any thing worth the trouble of taking home.

APPENDIX E.

Traders and Trade of Western Ajf'tjhanistan.

Undee tills head I propose to give a sketch of the commercial classes of
Western All'ghaiiistan, soaie of the routes frequented by them, and the chief
articles of trade which may not be found in Doctor Bellew's report on the
products of the country ; and may commence with

TUE POVINDIAU AfFGHANS.

Although the disturbed state of Atfghanistan has, during the past century,
been unfavorable to the development of commerce, yet we know that at one
time large and valuable caravans used to carry the products of llindu.stai), the
Panjab and Cashmir to Cabul, Herat, Persia and Turkey ; and that although
at the present day the products of these countries flow through very different
channels to far remoter regions, still in Khorasan (by which name traders
almost invariably style the greater part of Atfghanistan and Persia) are to be
found mercantile races called Povindiahs, whose lives are spent in caravan
journies, carrying on the traffic between Hindustan, Khorasan and liokhara,
by means of their droves of camels and ponies.

The^e Povindiahs are pastoral, and migratory in their mode of life; during
the autumn months, they proceed down the Guleri, or Zadi passes; and
leaving tlicir families to graze the spare cattle in tlie Dcrajat, a portion of th^
tribe goes on with goods to Delhi, Cawnpore, Sic. and arranges so as to be back
about the commencement of March, when the clans again pick up their (ami-
lies and worldly goods and move up the passes to the Ghazni and Khilat-i-
Ghilzi district, sending on caravans to Cabul, Bokhara, Kandahar, and Herat
(the Kharoti division carry on most of the trade with the latter place ;) the
whole returning in time to accompany the tribe down the passes again.

This move is effected in three divisions, proceeding invariably at stated in-
tervals ; and the respective migrations bear the names of Myakhel, Nasar and
Kharoti, after the branches of the tribe composing them.

The Povindiahs are divided into four clans ; Lehwani or Lohani, IS'asar,
Neazis and Kliarotis.

The LoiiANiES are again subdivided into three branches: Dowlatkhel,
Panui and Myakhel ; but the two lirst now no longer carry on the mercau-
N 2

[ ^2 1

tile pursuits of their ancestors, having settled clown as agriculturists ; the
IJovvlatkhel on tlie lands of Tak, in the Derajat, with Sirbulaud Khan
(Kattikhel) at their head ; and tlie Panni (a much smaller division) ahout
Thall and Sutliali ; these latter are gradually mixing with the Tarins of that
part of the country.

The Myakhel (vith the exception of the Musazai faction, numbering some

400 families under Mir Alam Khan in Deaband,) live entirely in camps ; are

wealthy traders, and for the convenience of pasturing their flocks, divide

themselves into 12 khels or encampments mustering about 1010 families in all.

Khels. Present chiefs. Tents.

Warake Killa, Alladad Khan, 100

Umarzai, Din Muhammad Khan, 70

TJraarzai, Eozi Khan, 80

Panni, Attal, 80

Pasinni, Kattar Khan, 90

Belochkhel, Palak Khan, 100

33eloehkhel, Sher Muhammad Khan, SO

Bakhtyar, Feroz Khan, 90

Bakhtyar, Lai Khan, 100

Xiuni Mahi Khan, 50

Luni, Ali Muhammad Khan, ,,.., 80

Myani, Amir Khan, 90

These Lohanies pay six hundred Rupees annual tribute to the Amir,
(being at the rate of Rupees 50 per khel) for the privilege of grazing their
Hocks and herds in the Ghazni district during the summer months ; this is
of course exclusive of import and transit duties on goods brought up as mer-
chandize.

Many Povindiahs are wholesale merchants trading on their own account,
while others are mere carriers or small dealers ; the latter frequently take
goods for retail sale, on credit from their more wealthy brethren, running all
chances of profit or loss, and paying at the rate of 12^ per cent, per annum on
the value of the goods.

Tlie Povindiahs carry goods from Dera Ismail Khan to Cabul or Kandahar,
at from 15 to 25 Rupees a camel load, the cost depending on the supply of
cattle on the spot and the losses of each caravan while on the journey.

From Ghazni to Kandahar, 9 Rupees are charged for every 6 maunds.
Cabul, 3

Cabul to Peshawar, 12 ; the extra charge on this line of road is owing to
the danger in the Khybar and Tartarra passes.

TuE Nasks arc the strongest of the Povindiah clans, and their chief

[ 93 ]

Shahzad Khan is acknowledged as the head of the whole fraternity ; they
number about 1S50 families, divided into encampments as follows.

KheU. Present cJiiefs. Tents.

Jalalkhel, Mallik Shahzad Khan, 200

Barkhel, Sirfaraz Khan, 100

Alam Begkhel, MajidKhan, 70

Chalakkhel, Shekh Khan, 80

Bannukhel, Eamzan Khan, 100

Yahiyakhel, Kasim Khan, SO

Zangikhel, Shumsh-ud-din Khan, 150

Kamalkhel, Nur-ud-din Khan, 200

Kamalkhel, Khaddar Khan, 50

Ushkliel, Lashkar Khan, 200

Daudkliel, Sladdat Khan, 250

Musizai, Bakshl Khan, 100

Musizai, Adam Khan, GO

Sarukhelli, Daud Khan, GO

Is^yamatkhel, Shahzad Khan, 70

Nyamatkhel, Syad JNlii- Khan, 80

These Nasrs pay three thousand rupees annually to Mir Alam Khan, the
head of the Turan Ghilzis, at Murgha, for the right of pasturage ; this sum
they divide over encampments according to the number of camels, cattle,
sheep and goats, belonging to each. The poorer members of this clan who
possess not more than half a dozen camels each, club together and carry on a
trade in salt, which they bring from the Bahadurkhel mines to Ghazni, or
the Khilat-i-Ghilzi districts, and barter it against grain, receiving three or
lour loads of the latter for every one of salt, according to the market value of
the mineral on the spot at the time.

Some of the Bokhara trade is in the liands of the Nasrs, but lilie other
Povindiahs, they generally prefer that of Hindustan which is more profitable
and safer.

The chief wealth of the Nasrs (excepting those located in Guraal and the
Kundar darrahs) is invested in trade and cattle ; they formerly, in common
with other Bovindiahs, possessed considerable lands on the Gumal, most of
which have been gradually taken from them, year by year, by the Waziris,
with whom they have a deadly feud ; and in their annual migrations down the
passes they are obliged to combine their strength and force their way down
against that tribe ; this however they have hitherto invariably contrived to
eflect.

The Neazies numbRr about 600 families, divided into four khels.

[ 94 ]

Kheh. Present chiefs. Tents.

Manrezkhe], Mullah Ashak, 150

Nur Khan khel, Mullah All Muhammad, 200

Musandkhel, Mullah Ahmad Khau, 160

Alikhel, Mullah Sjad Nur Muhammad, 80

The remainder of this clan, located, (as is already well known) in the vici-
nity of ilsankhel, on the Indus, are our own subjects ; and belong to the
agricultural class.

The Khaeoties are divided into

Seven trading factions .
Khels. Present cliiefs. Tents,

Ahmadkhel, Muhammad, , 300

Ditto, Piru Khan, 200

Ditto, Hikmat, 200

Yahkhel, Gannu Khan, 200

Pasanni, Ganda Khan, 250

Hadyakhel, Maswat Kluin, 300

Narzik, Tur Khan, 50

Besides a few families residinar in Cabul.

Total, 1500

Tioo slieplierd divisions.

Marakzai, Suhuman, Kehrmeh, Malin, Nur Muhammad Khan, 100

Kokalzai, Nasr Khau, 400

These border on the Jaddran country, 500

Eleven Agricidtural divisions.
Khels. Present chiefs. District. Houses.

Umarkhel, Zarin, Shekh Muhammad,

Kamal Khan and Kasul Khan, Uspunna, 140

Saindkhel, Sirdar Khan, , Guraal, 50

Ditto, Muhammad Yar, Ditto, 30

Yahkhel, Yar Muhammad, Ditto, 80

Hybatkhel, Sahib Khan and Daud Khan, Ditto, 30

Zakukhel, Marwat Khan, Bablkhel, 40

Surabikhel, Sirurer Syad and Muhammad, Sarobi, 100

Yazi, Syad Khan, Yazil, 30

Langikhel, Sahibdad, Sarobali ]S^allah,-^

Yuzarkhel, Mazzeh, Ditto, ^500

Tunikhel, Janneh, Ditto, 3

Total, 1,000

[ 95 ]

The Sulaimanzai Povincliahs are all fakirs, wandering'about from encamp-
ment to village, and living on the industry of their neighbours ; they muster
some five hundred souls.

The Kharoties, like their neighbours the Jaddrans, are perfectly independent
excepting those residing in Saroba and Sinowzi, which are subject to tlie ruler
of Zurmat ; and pay, the former 140 Rupees, and the latter |210 Rupees
annual revenue. This tribe must not be confounded witb the Kharoti Ghilzies
which are perfectly distinct and quite a different race.

The Guliri pass traversed by these tribes in their annual migrations, has

already been described by an otiJcer from per-
Koutes. , , . , . , , ^ ,

sonal observation, which must be far better than

any sketch which I could offer from native information ; but the following
routes (also used by them) from Kandahar, Khilat-i-Ghilzi, and Mukar by the
tract known as the llali-i-Maruf, may be useful ; the merchants proceeding by
it from Kandahar have first to pay Rupees 2-10 per camel to Sirdar Gholam
Hydar Khan at Cabul, besides G annas to Mir Alam Khan, the head of the
Utak Ghilzies at his fort at Margha. All Hindus coming up from Hin-
dustan by this route are taxed according to the circumstances of each, one
man paying 10 Rupees wliile a poorer person gets off by [laying 4 Rupees.

From Kandahar to

KiLLA Mom. VXD, 6 koss over the Kandahar plain ; the water here is from
springs, but brackisli ; a little cultivation in the neighbourhood.

Taiinak, G koss, over a sandy plain ; encamping ground on the bank of the
Tarnak river, from which water is procured.

WiLOAl, 5 koss. In this day's march a small kothal had to be crossed
no provisions procurable here, and water only from springs.

Jandae, Madat Khan, 5 koss. A village in the midst of a well cultivated
tract on the banks of the Arghusan. Road good.

LoBA, 6 koss. Road along the bed of the Arghasan ; here also are villa^'es
and cultivation and Lora itself is situated at the junction of a stream coming-
down from above Mukar, with the Arghusan.

SuRGHAZ KoTUAL, G koss. Still up tlie bed of the stream ; the road is
broken and rugged ; there are a few small villages in the neighbourhood
surrounded by small patches of cultivation ; the country generally mountainous
barren ; encamp at the foot of the Kothal.

7tu maech. This, though not a long march in actual measurement, is a
most tedious one ; the ascent and descent of the Surghaz mountain has to be
accomplished, which takes the greater part of a day. The encampinfi- o-round
is at a spring on the far side of the range, just crossed over ; no village, but some
tx'ees.

[ ^6 ]

8tii march, 6 koss over an undulating broken country, gradually de-
scending down again to the bed of the Arghusan, on the bank of which is the
spot for encamping.

SniEKZAi, G koss, over a country undulating and hilly, though the banks of
the Arghusan are here and there cultivated, and have a good sprinkling of
villages.

Katt, 6 koss, same sort of road as yesterday.

llTn MARCH, to a Ghilzie encampment near some springs. The road leaves
the bed of the Arghusan and crosses the Ghwanza Kothal, which is neither
high nor difficult ; this is the last halting place in the Kandahar district.

SuRKHEL, 7 koss. A village belonging to the Tochi Ghilzies ; country
tolerable well cultivated, water brackish from springs.

Sturanisa, 7 koss, over an undulating plain ; no cultivation ; villages
deserted ; water procurable from wells ; this spot belongs to the Tochi
Ghilzies.

KiRSHTJTU KE KiiLA, G coss ; road good, country level, but only inhabited
by wandering Babars ; water from karezahs.

ToPAN, G koss, over a plain ; here is one well but no cultivation. The
country belongs to Babars.

LowANA KA REz, 7 koss, ovcr a plain ; Lowaua is a small village surrounded
by cultivation.

GuRABi DARRAH, G koss ; halting-ground at the entrance to the pass,
"Water procured by digging in the bed of a ravine where it is always to be
found close to the surface.

Lari, 6 koss ; the name of a plain where kaffilahs usually encamp ; it is
occupied by a poor and inoffensive tribe of Kakars. E-oad through a long
durrah flanked by low hills. Water from springs.

TRiicnanAZ, 7 koss. This place consists of 30 or 40 houses of the Jhuni-
rlan tribe. It was in the days of the Mogluil Empire, famous for the manu-
facture of weighing scales : made of raw hides ; and although this trade has
almost disappeared, yet the manufacture still exists. Country hilly and
barren.

MuKHAL ; an encamping ground G koss from the last; road passing through
a long defile ; water procured from a small stream, a tributary of the Gumal.
From this spot three darrahs open out: the Jhob ; Kundar and Gumal.
The Kakars hold Jhob, while the Khoraties, Appezies, Mundakhel, Sheranis
and Waziris, are to be found in the other two.

Mamukhani, 8 koss, a long and tiresome march ; for five koss through a
narrow defile, commanded by lofty heights ; the path then debouches on the
Mamukhani plain, occupied by Muudukhel and Nasrs.

[ ^'" ]

KnuRKUUNDi, C kos3 ; here are a few villages in the midst of cultivation
belonging to Mundukhels and Nasrs. Eoad generally through a hilly coun-
try along the bed of the Kundar stream.

GusTA, G koss ; still along the bed of the stream ; this spot which is only
an encamping ground without houses belongs to the Mundukhel, described as
a pastoral race in alliance with the Nasrs, and generally able to defend their
own ; they never molest caravans passing through their country.

HusETN NiKA, 7 koss ; a halting-place at the Ziarat of Husein, where
the Kholdadkhel and other Sulaimankhel Ghilzies come down to trade and
barter with the Lahanies. lload as in yesterday's march. From here two
roads strike off, one to Guliri and the other to Zao.

Damaxda-K, 7 koss ; a halting-place watered from a spring, on the water-
shed line between the Kundar and Gomal streams ; this day's march is a
difficult one, through a rugged darrah, at the end of which a high kothal has
to be ascended.

Kanzue. The first halting-place in the Waziri country, on the banks of
the Gomal. Caravans are frequently attacked by the Waziris in all the
route through their portion of the country where there are no villages, but
only well known halting-places, named as here shown. The road in to-day'd
march is down a steep descent and then along the bed of the Gouuil river.

HaNMTAJ, 7 koss ; along the bed of the Gonial.

KoTGHi, 7 Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.

Kiekanni, 9 koss, along the bed of the Gomal. 2 koss from Kotghi is
the Tol darrah, a narrow but well cultivated glen, inlialiited by TaCtani
Povindiahs who are on friendly terms with the Waziris ; but the remainder
of this day's march is notoriously subject to Waziri raids.

GuLliiI, 1-i koss. Leaving the bed of the Gomal and crossing a very diffi-
cult kothal. Water is scarce at this stage.

Mashkanni, 10 koss, through low barren hills ; water from a brackish
spring.

ZEBNAElKAn, 8 koss. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.

Manjigaeh, 9 koss; at the ith coss the road passes out of the hills and
crosses to this village in British territory.

Caravans from Khilat-i-Ghilzie pay a tax of Rupees 2-8 to the ruler of that
district before starting, and a further sum of llupees 1-10 to Mir Alara Khan
and take tlie following route.

Mullahhad Akhun, 7 koss. Water from a karez : country tolerably culti-
vated, with occasional gardens ; inhabited by Utak Ghilzies, and the road
crossing the Tarmak stream, traverses a succession of small darrahs.
(J

[ ^s ]

Baghat, 7 koas. Road over a plain : water from a karez ; here are numerous
almond gardens, and the country generally is well cultivated.

Peshi. a Glulzie halting-place, at the foot of a kothal, and a spring.
On the summit of tliis hill is a tower where the Ghilzie transit duty is collecti'd.

Chaoni, 8 koss. Road bad, and country broken and hilly ; two kothals
have to be crossed. Chaoni is the head-quarters of Mir Alam Khan, already
mentioned as ^the chief of the Utak Giiilzies. Water from a karez and
springs : country in the immediate vicinity, cultivated.

KiiANAN, 6 koss. An old Ghilzie fort : road good over a level country ; and
water from springs.

LoRGiiAi, 6 koss. Road tolerable ; this village is on the boundary line between
the Utak and Tochi Ghilzies, country undulating. At Lorghai are numer-
ous karezas and a stream.

MuEGiiA, 8 koss, over a plain ; some cultivation, water from springs and
karezas.

Dabwaza, 7 koss ; a Ghilzie encamping-ground where there are numerous
springs.

SiuGAEl, 5 koss ; over a plain. Water abundant.

Kassasa, 6 koss, road through low hills ; halting-place at some springs on
neutral ground between the Kakars, Mundukhel and Tochi Ghilzie tribes.

Chismuni, 8 koss ; in this march a small kothal has to be crossed ; remainder
of the road over an undulating country. Chisumni is a valley with several
small villages scattered over it, inhabited by Dhawi Ghilzies. Water plentiful.

Topan, already mentioned as the 15th stage in the Rah-i-Maruf from
Kandahar,

The third branch of this road joins in from JVTukar. Caravans proceeding by
it, have to pay 5 Cabuli Rupees to the Ghilzies as transit duty. The stages
irom Mukar are : —

Ghilan, G koss, through the villages and cultivation of the Taraki
Ghilzies.

DnA:ND, 6 koss, road good. Country cultivated and water from karezas.

Wastazi, 6 koss, over a plain country as yesterday. At this place the
water of numerous karezas, all brackish, disappears in the soil.

Utkan, 7 koss ; road through a narrow darrah, country undulating, hilly
and but partially cultivated. Water brackish from wells.

KiLLA Khan, 8 koss, country sprinkled with Taraki villages, and culti-
vation : water abundant.

Taezae ka Sir, 6 koss ; road along a darrah for the greater part of the
distance ; after coming out of which, arrive at an open spot of the above
name containing a few Taraki vilhiges.

[ 99 ]

Zangalla, 8 koss ; one low kothal has to be crossed in to-tlay's march,
known as the ZangaUa ; the Tarakies of this place are all shepherds and
have little or no cultivation.

Shahduk, 8 koss ; a difficult kothal has to be crossed in this march ;
country mountainous. Water from springs : no cultivation to be seen.

Spedae, 7 koss ; this is the name of a halting-place, without inhabitants ;
water from springs ; country rugged ; and several very difficult ascents and
descents to be got over during this march ; this spot is the limit of the Ta-
raki Ghilzie country in this direction.

MuLiiAH MiTAK ZiAEAT, 8 koss ; tlus also is merely an encamping-ground,
in the country of the Jumiani Ghilzies ; water from a spring ; country much
the same as in last march ; road through a dilficult pass.

BozA, 9 koss, over a comparative plain. At the halting-place is a brackish
spring, but no inhabitants, but the Sulaimankhel village of Nasrs is only
two koss off to the northward.

LuRMUEGUA, 8 koss, an encampment of Taraki shepherds, near a spring ;
the road generally good witli the exception of one small kothal.

Guj:)AWAnnaii, 8 koss; tliis is a small place belonging to a colony of some
1500 Lohwauies, who are generally engaged in the salt trade ; considerable
quantities of salt are excavated here, and exported to AHghanistan ; the water
at this stage is brackish in the extreme ; there is a low kothal in this day's
march, but owing to its broken and angular surface it is ditlicult for camels.

Laei, 6 ko«s, already mentioned as the 18th march on the Kah-i-Maruf
route from Kandahar. 'Jhese routes are often taken by the Povindiulis iu
preference Lo the more beaten tracks on account of the abundance of forage
for cuttle and camels, which is often scarce elsewhere.

In the Kandahar district, the chief merchants are either Hindus, Sliikar-

puries or Persians ; of the lirst there are 350
Kandahar trade. i . •* i • ■ -i •

shops belonging to Uttaraillii,l)akliini and Ivbatri

castes, and 190 houses of Sbikarpuries and others. The Hindus are all cloth-
sellers, spice-dealers and shroffs. Tlie Shikarpuries are cloth-sellers, general
fruit-dealers and agents for large firms in Shikarpur (who have transactions
with most of the large cities iu A.^ia ;) in their hands are all the exchange
transactions, and much of the wool trade, which is daily growing into greater
importance in this part of the country.

Tiie following are a few particulars regarding this trade. At Birgand,

Hazara, Herat and Kandahar, when advances
are made to the nomads on the future crop, the
[■rice on the spot is about I'J Co.'s annas per Kandahari maund of 4 Co.'s
o 2

[ 100 ]

seers ; but if purchased at the time of shearing, it costs Rupees 1-4 for
the same weight- and if taken on credit Rupees 1-8. A load of 48 maunds
Kandahari, or 192 Co.'s seers, is carried to Kandahar from any of the other
districts ahovementioned for Co.'s Rupees 12-8 ; and from this point to
Kurraehi for the same sum. The reduced rate for the latter distance is account-
ed for by the road being better, and, below Dadar, perfectly safe. The go-
wiashta or agent proceeding with the investment receives I- of the profits,
taking an equivalent share of risk ; but if the arrangement with him is made
on the Muharamadan principle (known as Mozaribat) when the agent runs no
risk, -i- of the profit is absorbed in his pay.

The agents in Kandahar say that the tariff of boat-hire from Kurraehi to
Bonabay varies so much, that it is impossible to give even a fair approximation
to the expenses of transit, but that the price in Bombay may be put down as
192 Rupees per kundi of 60 Kandahari maunds. Pure white v?ool is the
most marketable, but brown and white are frequently mixed. The wool of
Birgand and Herat is generally shorn twice a year, and if not exported is
manufactured into carpets, b;ila-zins, masnadi, namads and common felts. The
fine wool known as kurak is procured from goats in the Herat, Gazak, and
Hazara districts.

The Birgand and Herat carpets, sold in Hindustan as Persian, are woven
in looms by 6 or 8 men at each, much in the
same way that caq^ets are usually made in our
jails, but of a much finer texture ; and the wool is always dyed before being
spun into thread, which is said to make the carpets keep their colour much
longer. Carpets are purchased from the manufacturer at 10 Herati Rupees
(each 4 Co.'s annas) per square yard, and fetch in Hindustan 10 Company's
Rupees.

In making masnadi namads, the great art is in having the wool thoroughly

carded and cleaned first, and then liijhtlv made
Namads or Felts. .' n y ■, - r ^ n o j

up mto a sort of half-felt foundation, on which

are placed pieces of colored wool of the required pattern anointed with sonp ;
the whole is placed on a frame of reeds, and rolled up and out again till the
wool is worked thoroughl}'- into one homogenous sheet of the required firm-
ness ; the namad is now opened out, and well rubbed under tlie feet ; and
lastly after a second coating of soap, the whole is finished by hand-rubbing.
Each masnadi namad sells at from 7 to 15 Rupees on the spot.

Bala-zins or saddle cloths are made as above, but without figured patterns
of any sort, and are of the finest picked wool, or even coarse kurak, and
fetch 6 or 7 Rupees each at the manufactory. Kurak is procured from
goats by combing thera once a year, with fine iron combs, by which only the

[ 101 ]

finer parts of the under coat is taken off; this wool is generally used for

making warm under-clothing for people of rank, and is worked up like ba-

lazins, but in much thinner sheets, being little, if at all, Inferior to pashminahs,

selling at from 7 to 20 Eupees each on the spot.

The great staple produce of Kandahar is dried fruit; of which apricots,

„ grapes and figs are the chief ; of the first, there

Dried fruit. ^ ^ ° , ' '

are ten descriptions, namely, surkhah, charmags,

kaisai, pasrassi, sadhai, shamshi, phen, murzi, safedcha, pasrassi miranjani and

shakarpara.

Young trees of any of these descriptions are obtained from the stones of
the fruit, which are soaked in a water-pot for about 20 days, or until they
germinate, when they are taken out and planted on ridges, and so watered that
the moisture may reach the stones without wetting the shoots, which are liable
to rot. When these young trees are a year old, they are transferred to the
gardens, where they are to remain ; and the following year budded ; they
bear in the fourth year, and are said to last from 25 to 30 years. For jaiethod
of budding see Doctor Ucllew's report.

The pasrassi miranjani and kaisai are the most esteemed.

The fruit of the charmags, when perfectly ripe, is split ; the stone taken
out, and the two sides stuck together again, and thoroughly dried in the sun on
beds of straw ; when ready they are called " khistas" and sell at the rate of
16 Co.'s seers per rupee in Kandahar.

Tlie pasrassi miranjani, when thoroughly ripe, is also stoned ; but the
kernel is restored, and the fruit dried as above. When ready, they are called
" ustak" or khubanies, and fetch in Kandahar a rupee per 12 seers.

The other descriptions of apricots are also dried, but the above arc the
most approved varieties.

Of grapes there are 18 sorts, rocha, kalachanni, khalali ; all early sorts
of which, the last mentioned is the most esteemed ; siah, lal, sahibi, kismis-
i-safed, husaini, kismis-i-surakh, katta, ita, Shekh AH, Taikhuri, Kalaghuchak
Aimi, Kalamak, Khail, Ghalami, askari.

The vines are generally pruned about the beginning of March, and cuttings
planted for new vines ; these latter are carefully watched, and as soon as the
shoots appear, one only is allowed to grow ; the most promising being of course
selected ; a vine is only allowed to increase a branch a year, all other shoots
being pruned away. They are, in Kandahar, usually planted in a deep trench,
the earth from which is generally thrown up on the north side and forms a
bank upon which the vines are trained. The principal portion of the gardens
surrounding most villages in the Kandahar district, is taken up with vine
culture, and the total produce must be enormous.

[ 102 ]

Bundles of the kismis-i-safed, Avhen perfectly ripe, are cut* and hung
each on a separate peg in the drying-house, which is a shed huilt for the pur-
pose ; the walls being perforated all over by loopholes from top to bottom to
secure a free circulation of air; here they remain for 40 days, and are then
talcen down, shaken from the stalks, picked, cleaned, and sent into the market
as raisins without seeds, called bedana or kismis-i-sabz, selling at about 16
seers per Co.'s Rupee. The siah, surkh and sometimes the ita, are dried
in the sun on beds of straw ; and when ready, become the common kismis or
kismis-i-surkh, fetching in the Kandahar market about a rupee for from 24!
to 28 seers.

The katta and ita, are sometimes dried ; but more frequently pressed for
their juice ; for this purpose they are placed in a series of pakka vats three in
number ; the first has a course grating at the bottom whicli allows nothing
but juice to pass into the second. The grapes when ripe are thrown into this
vat, trodden under foot, tlie juice accumulating in the second vat where it is
allowed to stand till the sediment subsides ; the clear portion is now drawn off
into cauldrons, and well boiled ; after which it is put out into the third vat
to cool, and call " doshab," selling at from 12 to 16 seers weight per rupee.

The ita, when perfectly ripe, is also treated in the following manner. Five
chittaks of slack lime are mixed with one seer of sujji (natram) in a garra of
water, well shaken, and allowed to stand for 24 hours ; it is then called tezab.
Then 10 maunds (Kandahar) of water are well boiled in a cauldron, and as
much tezab as a man can take up in both hands is thrown in. Two bunches
of itas are now taken, dij)ped into this hot mixture, stirred about, and quickly
withdrawn ; if the grapes be slightly cracked, it is a sign that the mixture is
perfect ; but if not, they are again dipped, or a little more tezab added,
according to circumstances. Grapes thus treated, and thoroughly dried on
straw, are called "abjosh," and sell at from 8 to 10 seers per rupee, most
other descriptions of grapes are consumed as fruit, and not dried as raisins.

Figs are of two sorts : black and white ; the first are never dried, but tlie
latter are picked when perfectly ripe and spread in the sun on beds of straw
till neaily dry ; each fig is then separately pinched in the centre, so as to turn
in the stalk and opposite end, and then thoroughly dried previous to stringing
on long strings ; after which they are sent into the market, fetching a rupee
for every 16 seers.

Fig trees are propagated from cuttings, but never transplanted.

Of pomegranates, there are 5 sorts : panjwai, basn, sherin, tuash, and be-
dana ; the first are by far the best, then the basn, &c. The panjawai and
bedana are those generally exported.

Alu bokharas are of two sorts, black and golden, of which the latter are the

[ 103 ]

best ; the first when ripe are dried on straw in the sun, and sell at 20 seers
[jer rupee. N. B. All alu bokhara trees require to be grafted.

The following are the 8 varieties of mulberries found at Kandahar ; parikuk
kurma, kalulang, Ibrahimkliani, bedana, patavi, siahtul and danadar ; the
most esteemed of which are the parikuk, patavi and bedana ; all are grafted
except the danadar.

Madder is extensively cultivated in the Ghazni and Kandahar districts, and

is said to be a very profitable crop, notwith-
Madder. ^ ,. , . ,

standing that it takes three years to come to

maturity, and is even better if left in the ground for a fourth. The green tops

are generally eaten down by sheep till the last year, when the plant is allowed

to ripen. The bones of all sheep so fed are said to be coloured, but the flesh is

not in any way affected.

The following is a list of prices in the Kandahar market of articles imported

from various quarters.

From Bombay.

Imj)ort$. Prices.

I^^amcs of articles. JProm to

Long cloths, per piece, 7 8 6 8

Ditto unbleached,) 4 8 3 0

Madapollains (white,) ' 9 0 GO

Alwuu (shawl stuffs) (red,) 10 0 8 0

Ditto (orange,) 5) 0 5 0

Ditto (green,) J) 0 5 0

Ditto (white,) 8 0 5 8

Khasa, 3 0 2 0

Jaconet (grey,) 3 0 18

Ditto (white,) 3 8 2 8

Dimity (white,) 4 0 3 0

Ditto (rose,) 0 0 7 12

Flowered muslins (ali colour,) 3 8 18

Coloured muslins, 3 8 19

Net, peryard, 10 0 7

Drill (white,) per piece, 10 0 0 7

Flowered muslins (golden.) per piece, 6 0 3 0

Velvet (black,) peryard, 0 12 8 0

Ditto, (red,) Ditto,... 112 10

Majut(?), (Imported,) Ditto,... 7 8 5 0

Broadcloth, Ditto,... 7 8 5 0

Chintz Scarlet, (red,) apiece, 12 0 8 8

Ditto Ditto (black,) a piece, 8 0 6 2

[ 104 ]

Chintz (Scarlet and rose Coloured,) apiece, 5 0 3 0

Ditto Ditto (white), apiece, 8 0 5 0

Chintz black and other colours, apiece, 5 8 5 0

Ditto Shakar kouz (a colour,) apiece, 9 0 GO

Khasa scarlet, , apiece, 5 0 3 8

Shawls, each, 6 0 4 8

Merino, per yard, 2 0 0 13

Molasses, per seer, 0 8 0 0

Sugar, per 3^ seers, 3 0 2 8

Black pepper, Ditto,... 2 0 0 0

Sal Ammoniac, Ditto,... 2 0 0 0

Cloves, Ditto,... 2 8 0 0

Green and black teas, Ditto,... 20 0 12 0

Turmeric, Ditto,... 2 0 0 0

Dry ginger. Ditto,... 2 0 0 0

Preserved ginger, per jar, 4 8 3 0

Orpiment (yellow,) per 3| seers, 2 0 0 0

Ditto (black,) Ditto,... 2 0 0 0

Cinnamon, Ditto,... 4 0 0 0

Cardamums (small,) Ditto,... 3 0 0 0

Ditto (large,) • Ditto,... 3 8 0 0

Thread (per bundle,) 6 0 0 0

Cocoanuts, per 3|^ seers, 3 0 0 0

Satin, per yard, 2 8 0 0

Flannel, Ditto,... 10 0 0

Russian satin, Ditto,... 18 0 0

Cambric, per piece, 5 0 3 0

Penknives two bladed 1-8 ; one blade 1 : large sailor's knives 4as. ; quantities of
pottery ware of all descriptions are imported, as also needles and thread, and
a few English medicines, which however kill many more than they cure ; for
being administered by a native hakim who knows nothing of their properties,

but tries the effect of the first which may be at hand, and regulates the quan-
tity given by the price.

N. B. The pieces of cloth above alluded to are of all sizes 40, 31, and 29
yards, and the Affghau gaz (or yard) is 3-3- English feet.

The following are the Kandahari weights :

A Kandahari seer weighs, Co.'s Rupees, 8 0

A Charak is 10 seers, or , „ ^ 80 0

4 CharaTcs are one maund.
1 Miskal is 4| masha.
1 Masha is 8 Euttis.

Py

■ices

From

to

2 4

0 0

1 S

0 0

[ 105 ]

Coins.
6 Cabuli rupees, 5 Co.'s Kupees.

1 Kandahar rupee, I „

12 Shalii make 1 rupee Kandahar.
6 Piee Kandahar or 4 Company's piee, 1 Shahi.

2 Shahies Kandahari, 1 miskal.
4 Shahies Kandahari, 1 abhassi.

The whole of tlie copper coinage is called in every two or three months, at
the will of the ruler of Kandahar (who regulates the value of the shahi and
usually brings them dow'u to half price for a few days before they are called
in,) and taken at half price, stamped and re-issued at tlieir full value. All
which remain in the market of the old supply (unstamped) are called ghaz.
Impobts moji Amuitsau.

Names of articles.

Pashmina shawls according to quality,

Molasses per Kandahar maund,

Turmeric,

Punjabi shoes, Penholders, Luugiis, cloth, Cashmir shawls, Pattu Caslimiii,
zinc, saffron, Caslimiri 1(J Rupees a Kandaliari mauud and Peshawar Lungics.

Fkom iMULTAN.

Ptough cloth, per lUO yards,... 9 0

Colored sheets for women, 20 ditto, ]7 U

Chintz, Nasrkhani, 2l) pieces or lOU ditto, ... 20 U

Ditto Lalgurie, iJitto ditto, ... S 0

Alacha, -lyaids,... 1 0

13ulia!oe's hides, cured, , 20 (iO 0

(Joats, 20 17 0

Shoes according to (juality, 0 0

PjtOM POKIIAK.V.

liussian gold lace, per tola, 2 0

Pokhara silk, per Kandahar maund, 35 0

Labani, ... Ditto Ditto, 25 0

Kokani, ... Ditto Ditto, 25 0

Gardanzi,.. Ditto iJitto, 33 8

J>okhara Tomujabiii, ... Ditto, 2 8

G(dd lace (imitation,) .. l)er yard,... 4 0

^ Gulbadau (a silk cloth,) Ditto,... 1 0

Kanawez, Ditto Ditto,... 3 0

Postius (fox ^kin.) each, ... 20 0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

2

0

0

a

[ 106 ]

Postlns (rat skill,) eacli, .. 25 0 0 0

Sinjiif Postins, each, ...40 0 0 0

Sinabands and Postins Samui-i, 600 0 100 0

Choghas (Alghani,) 5U 0 0 0

Russian boxes of all sorts and prices, 0 0 0 0

From Masiiad and Khoeassan.

Naishapur Terozes (Turquoises,) at all prices, 0 0 0 0

Opium (Gunabad) per Kandahar niaund, 35 0 0 0

"Ditto (^ezd,) Ditto 45 0 0 0

Kanawez, per yard,... 18 P 0

Silk lungies, each,... 9 0 0 0

Ditto (Yezd,) 5 0 0 0

llazaies from Yezd, 3 0 0 0

Silk handkerchiefs, (black,) 4 0 0 0

Didghar skins, 15 0 0 0

Bala-zins, 20 0 10 0

Black booti^, a pair,... 8 0 7 0

Abrak (rahdar,) each, ... 280 0 0 0

Abrak (Mat^hadi, each, ... 50 0 15 0

Ditto Kirniani, each,.,. 9 0 0 0

Pittu, 12 0 0 0

Besides the above Mashadi double-barrelled guns, pistols, and swords,
choghas, namdas, sinabands of Kurk, white and grey drills, and chintz of
all sorts and prices.

Fkom Cabul.

Postins, each,..

Sinabands, 10

Pditu, 30

Pice, per Kandahar maund,..

Walnuts, Ditto, ... Ditto,.,

Cabul Molasses, Ditto, ... Ditto,..

Besides the above, Lungies, Barrak, and Janab,

FiiOM Akardarkaii,

From this district are brought the famous pomegranates, which are perhaps
the finest in the world, as also asafoetida ; this trade is chiefly in the hands of
the Tajaks and Kakars.

The Tajaks of Anardarrah are all under Mir Muhammad, Ahmed Klian, and
Syad Musa of their ovvn clan, who are respectively at the head of 800, 200
and 200 families. The lands of these Tajaks are all laid out in fruit gardens,
producing jujubes, pomegranates and figs, the value of which may be estimated

5 0

3

0

0 0

0

0

0 0

15

0

1 0

12

0

0 8

0

0

1 0

0

0

[ 107 J

from the fact of the tribe paying 12,000 Herati rupees (Rupees 3,000) to the
governor of the province annually. Almost the whole of their produce is ex-
ported. The low ranges adjacent to the Anardarrah hasin are the great
asafcetida producing tracts : during the t])ree hottest months in tlie year,
numbers of Kakars resort there to collect that gum. All parties, previous to
proceeding to the ground, are obliged to find security to the governor of the
province for the payment of 6 Rupees privilege duty per head and have to
pay a further tax of 3 annas per maund upon the asafcetida collected.
The following articles exported, cost in Kandahar.

EXPOHTS.

Almonds, per Kandahar maund, 10 0 0

Mashad and Herat silk (chatta,) Ditto, JO 0 0 0

(Twela,) Ditto, 35 0 0 0

(Tuni,) Ditto, 30 0 0 0

Anab (jujube fruit,) Ditto 10 0 0

Zerisk (a berry from Herat,) 18 0 0

Safron from Birgand, 90 0 IG 0

And dried fruits of all sorts in large quantities.

The import duties exacted at Kandahar vary exceedingly, and should any
articles be brought which the Sirdar fancies, tliey are taken as his share of
these dues ; it is therefore exceedingly difficult to procure anything like a
correct tarif, but from 5 to 10 per cent, on the value of the goods may be
assumed as about the charge.

On wheat, barley, atta, and rice, 2 annas per donkey load, or 4 annas per
camel load is charged. Gliee 1 ^ annas per Kandahari maund. Wood 1 anna a
load : fruit ditto ditto : ^ of all the oil brought is taken. In the city new skull
caps are taxed at 2 pice each, the kidney fat of every sheep or goat slaughtered
is the government share, and is sent to the royal soap manufactory, where it is
made into a coarse description of soap on the most economical principles, and
sold to the population ; each shoj) pays a tax of 1-i- Kandahar Rupees per
mensem, Syads, Mullahs and a few others being the only classes exempted.
Dyers pay Co.'s Rupees 1,500 per annum. Tanners 4,000 Rupees. Cap and
postin makers 600 Rupees. Butchers 700 Rupees. Silk-weavers 3,500 Rupees.
Gram-dealers Rupees 1,250. The Hindu tax called " Juz" (capitation) produces
3,000 Rupees. Cattle market 2,500. Gaming-houses 2,500 Rupees. Abkari
300 Rupees. Bakers have to present the governor with 30 Kandahar niaunds
of bread (15 maunds at each Eed). The whole number of tax-paying shops
in the city amoimt to 907.

The greatest merchant in Kandahar is Hyat Khan, who has agents in Herat,
Lahore and Sindh ; the chief Hindus are Ranjit Singh, the Government
p 2

[ 1<^8 ]

Agent, vvl\o presides over all panchayets and collects the " Juz," Blianna

Clmr and Jairam, none of these now appear to have any dealings with Cabul,

and althougli bills can be easily negotiated on Shikarpiir, the Panjab or Herat,

orders on the capital are difficult to procure.

The Syads of Peshin, Kakars, Bakhtyars and Beluchis generally, are the

tribes chiefly engaged in the horse trade, which
Horse trade. ' . ' „ . i • i_i

usually flourishes for six months in the year,

but is stagnant for the hot months and during winter, when the roads are

partially closed by snow ; about 2 or 3000 horses are said to pass through

Kandahar annually ; tlie chief breeding districts drawn on by these traders

are Sarakhs, in Irak, Maimunnah in Turklstan, Nur and Ivillah now in Haza-

rah, Darya Gaz and Khilat-i-Nadir, in Mashad; Gulza and Ferozkoh in

the Herat district. Of these the horses from Sarakhs, Nur and Gulza

are most prized, and are purchased on tlie spot for, from 10 to 20 tillahs

(equal to 60 or 120 Co.'s Rupees). Animals of much higher blood and value

are to be found at these places, but they ai'e seldom purchased by traders as

there is a great chance of such liorses being picked out by the Durani Sirdars

(in transit) at their own valuation, and altogether the profit on blood horses

is not so great as that on the cheaper breeds.

Colts are allowed to run at the mare's foot until a year old, on the exten-
sive grazing grounds of these districts, and as soon as weaned are sold to
Hindus who keep tliem a short time and barter them against Indigo, chintzes,
&c. &c. brought for the purpose by regular horse-dealers. At Kandahar,
transit duty at from 15 to 30 Rupees is charged on each animal, and to escape
this tax the traders frequently take the desert routes through Siestan to Belo-
chistan detailed hereafter.

The Syads of Peshin and other small traders carry on the traffic in human

beings in Western Affs^hanistan, and some 4 or
Slave trade. ^= ,, ,. , Ir ^ ,

500 are annually disposed of in Kandahar alone.

Some are purchased in Siestan, but most of them are kidnapped ; very few

Persians ai'e brought here as slaves, and those are chiefly purchased from

the Turkomans ; they are usually imported by the Siestan route.

Hazarah furnishes a large quota, frequently in lieu of arrears of revenue,

when there is any difficulty in realizing the Government assignments made on

different villages, — while some monsters in human sliape are found among

these Hazarahs who sell their sisters and daughters into hopeless bondage.

The price of slaves fluctuates according to the price of food. During seasons

of abundance, they fetch tolerable sums, but in time of fiimine or scarcity

they are a drug in the market ; for instance shortly after our arrival here, last

year, when the famine was great in Kandahar, two women and a boy were sold

[ 109 ]

to one iiKlividual for Ttupces 120, and almost any numl'cr niiglit have been
purchased at the same rate.

The Hazarahs and negroes are most prized in Kandahar, as, when treated
well, they invariably make hard working, trustworthy servants, and, strange to
say, few Hazarahs ever attempt to escape to their own country ; the reason is
said to be that when there, they have great difficulty in getting sufficient food
to exist upon, whereas, when they are with Affghan Sirdars (so long as
they do their duty) they get well clothed and plenty of food ; they are
generally employed in the charge of horses.

There are a good many African slaves in Kandahar ; most of these, I find,
are brought by pilgrims from Muscat, through Persia and Herat or Siestan,
while some (though 1 am not aware of any arrivals during our residence at
Kandahar) are smuggled up with Kafillahs from Bombay. The principal
dealer on the Persian line is a Syad (Mir Syad Ali) who has an agent in
Herat, while Najak Shah, one of the Peshin Syads used to be notorious on
the Bombay route, but he is said not to have visited Kandahar for the last
three years : although I know of several slaves now in Kandahar who have
been smuggled up within that period by other parties.

The cows of Kandahar and Siestan are in general request, and are said to

give 20 seers of milk each per diem, being milk-
ed three times in 24 houis; they fetch about
Rupees 40 each, but the breed peculiar to the country about Gowdam are the
best and cannot be purchased under 50 liupees each.

Camels are anything but plentiful in the Kandahar di.^trict, and the supply

is scarcely adequate to meet the demands of the trading population, and many

are imported I'rom Bolochistan ; prices vary from 20 to 100 liupees. Siestan

appears to be a wretched country, for I can hear but of two articles brought

from that quarter, lieginahi, and eidei'-down,
Regmabi.

The former are a species of small sand lizard

(lacerta scincus) procured in great quantities from the sandy deserts border-
ing on Siestan ; they are caught, killed, and dried in the sun for exportation
to Hindustan, where they sell at the high rate of 4 for a rupee, being sup-
posed to possess some extraordinary strengthening properties in cases of nervous
debility and other infirmities of the same class.

Eider ducks are said to abound on the Siestan Lake, and the natives kill

them in great numbers in the following way.
Eider doven. -r^ . « • i , t i,>

Parties of men go at night and concealing 10 or

12 men in the long grass on the small islands in the lake, the remainder set

fire to the heavy jungal round the margin of the lake which so bewilders and

frightens the ducks that they flock in hundreds to the islands and are knocked

[ no ]

on the head vvlLli sticks by the parties concealed there. The down, however, is
much adulterated.

Perhaps of all the districts round Kandahar, that lying between Siestan and

Belociiistan is the least known to us, and in the
Siestan routes.

absence of more precise information, tlie follow-
ing routes usually taken by Beluclii Kafillahs may prove useful as illustrative
of the inhospitable character of that tract of country.

The length of the different marches is not given, as the people frequenting
them, have little or no idea of distances, but each may be put down at an
average of 20 miles.

Route from Khilat (Belociiistan) to Killapiit in Siestan.

Kauez Naib Muhammad IIusseik. Country well cultivated along this
march, and water abundant from karezas : Beluch population.

Daurah. Population Barraks ; country arid and sandy, water from a karez.

Dehi Sirdar Sirfaeaz Khan. Inhabited by Beluchies ; road all the way
over sand ; on tliis march pass a quantity of " balut" (oak) jungal : water
from wells dug in the sand.

Chokani Jakt. Inhabited by Beluchies : Shah Pasand Khan (Beluch)
owns this village ; grass and forage are abundant, the population generally
following a pastoral life ; road as in last march : water from wells.

Daerah Shah Pasand Khan. Iload through a darrah, and encamp in
it near a spring : no village. Badshah nur killa. Over a sandy undulating
desert to a mined village on the banks of the Helmund,

In the next 3 marches to Killapat, by Kamal Khan, and Gumbut, the
route traverses the cultivated valley of the Hebnand, in the district of Siestan,
which even the wild Beluchl describes as infested by flies, and where the rays
of the sun strike with such vigor on the soil, that even the camel of the desert
is obliged to be housed to protect it from their all-powerful and destroying
beams.

Another route sometimes used by Beluchies is a direct road from Ghirisk
to Kharan. ,

The first four marches follow down the Hilmand, encamping at Lirkar-
wallah ; Killa Bnz ; Hazar Guft, and Laki, all Bamekzi or Murzie villages;
from the latter Kafdlahs are conducted by guides aci'oss the desert : for tlie
first day no water is procurable for man or beast ; on the second day you arrive

[ Jll ]

at a place called Haibu, where tliere are two wells resorted to by noniad
tribes during the winter mouths only. On the 3rd march, a desert is
traversed, and no water is to be had. The 4th day brings the caravan to
Shur Chahan where there is always some brackish water. The 5th march is
also through a howling wilderness without wafer.

On the 10th day from Ghirislc, arrive at some hills known as the Koh-i-
Is^hmail Khan, which are of quite as unattractive a nature as the desert just
crossed; at this spot are two wells. The 11th march is to Niski. After cross-
ing the hills mentioned in the last stage, the caravan debouches on to an
extensive open plain, on which stands the Belochi village of Niski, where
water is abundant from wells and springs, 12th village of Shah Pasand Khan,
mentioned as the 5th stage in the last route ; froni this point there are two
mai'ches in the Darrah Kharun, throughout which water from springs is pro-
curable at various points. The next stage is to Nawabi Arzad Khan, a Beluch
village in the midst of cultivation and supplied with water from springs.
One more march brings the caravan to the well known town of Kharan.

Although the innate suspiciousness and love for exaggeration of the AIT-
ghan's character render it next to impossible to collect anything like statis-
tical or even reliable information upon the most common subjects, I have from
time to time gleaned the above notes from individual merchants engaged iu
the trade of Kandahar.

The opening up of the resources of Sindh and the Panjab, together with
increased facilities for the transit of commerce to and from the port of Kurra-
clii, must, no doubt, in time have their usual effects on this part of Affglian-
istan, and considerably increase the exports of Kandahar. But the impover-
ished state of the Amir's exchequer, and the expedients which Governors of
provinces resort to, to make the required revenue, preclude all hope of reduc-
tion in tlie present heavy transit duties of All'ghanistan, during the present
reign ; nor is it likely that general political fermention which must in all
human probability ensue on the Amii's deatii, will inqirove matters in tliis
respect.

APPENDIX F.

A description of Kajflristari and its inJiahitanis compiled from the ac-
counts by Mr. Elphinstone and Sir A. Burncs, as ivell as fro^n
information gathered from Kaffir slaves in the service of different
Affghan Sirdars.

Hindu Kush is the name generally given to the water-shed line between

. the rivers Oxus and Indus, or rather to that

Hindu Kush and KafEristan.

portion of it in which the Dehasrud, Kholu-

mab, the Kunduz and Kokehar streams take their rise, and flow northwards
to the Oxus, (called by the people east of Balkh the Panj) while its southern
slopes are drained by the numerous tributaries of the Cabul river, wliich falls
into the Indus opposite to Attok. The largest of these tributaries is known
as the Konour river, wliich is supposed to have its sources about Lat. 36°
30' N. and Long. 73* 20' E. and after draining the mountains on either side
of the Kashgar, or Chittral valley, where it is called Bailum, it is joined at
Ciiigurserai (about 48 koss above its junction with the Cabul river) by a con-
siderable stream coming down from the N. W. All tlie country drained by
this last mentioned tributary, which has different names in different localities,
is known as Kafliristan ; and, as shown in the accompanying sketch map
compiled from native information, comprises the entire possessions of these
tribes, excepting the portion held by the Kilties, the water from whose lands
runs in a northerly direction, and one or two smaller imtches detailed in the
sketch.

2. Kaffiristan may therefore be said to consist of an elevated plateau,
forming for a distance of about 80 miles, as already explained, the summit of
that elevated range called the Hindu Kush ; the drainage of tliis Ali)ine tract
in its higliest altitudes seems to be sometliing like the fingers of a man's
open hand, a number of small contiguous valleys concentrating their waters in
one point, from which the main stream Hows down a long deep glen and i:*
joined at intervals by others in valleys sliooting out at right angles from
either side : the different slopes drained by these small tributaries seem to
form the natural divisions of the country, and each valley or glen has its
own name and separate tribe, aud is again subdivided into many smaller
sections.

w

[ 113 ]

3. As might be expected in a country of tliis description, while the upper

_ , . , and more elevated portions afford nothinir better

Oreneral aspect of tlie country. _

than grazing grounds to the pastoral portion of

these tribes, the lower slopes are generally found clad with dense forests of
pine ; and the narrow and well sheltered valleys are cultivated, and yield, in
addition to wheat and millet sufficient for the consumption of its inha-
bitants, rich supply of grapes, apples and other fruits common in cool
climates.

4. Tlie principal divisions of the Kaffir tribes are as follows, Traiegama,

^. . . . ., , Waiegal, Waillegal, Kam, Kamuz, Katti.Rahrah,

Divisions of tribes and country.

Mundegal, Peh, and Kantor ; all of these are

again subdivided into endless sections, all of which it would be very difficult

and perhaps neither useful nor interesting to trace, but the following are

a few of them which, as already shown, are divisions of country as well as

of tribes.

1. Traiegama, divided into Gambhir, Kattar and Devi.

2. Waiegal, divided into Paintar, AVillwaie and P)aiigalli.

3. Kantor is the largest division and includes Kaymgal, Peh (again
divided into Bairkama, Pimichgram and Atargam) and Gadu.

4. The Kicth is also a very numerous faction, chiefly pastoral, and lias the
reputation of being the most ancient branch, as all the other divisions of the
tribe are said to have been offshoots from it. There are besides the above, a
great number of smaller tribes, to be found located along the bed of the main
stream, such as, Paj, Paintar, Pendesh, &c.

5. The form of government among the Kaffirs is a sort of patriarchal

republic, for there are certain families of ancient
Government and lands.

descent in eacli valley who are much looked up

to, and a conclave of the elders or white beards from among whom, settle all
matters of government, and when necessaiy make peace or war. Blood-feuds
are very prevalent, and bitter, both between individuals and tribes, and a very
common way of bringing about a reconciliation between families is to give a
daughter in marriage to some member of the opposition, but in such a case
it is understood that no dowry is exacted. Every Kaffir killing a Kaffir, no
matter what the provocation may have been, is driven out of his village for
three years, at least, after which time he may return with the consent of the
elders, but take his chance of being retaliated upon by the relatives of the
victim ; and in aggravated cases, he is not allowed to return at all. Vengeance
is considered a sacred duty, but in the event of two Kaffirs who have a blood-
feud between them, meeting under circumstances precluding their settling
accounts on the spot (such as one of them having a guest with him) the

\

[ 113 ]

3. As might be expected in a country of this description, while the upper

„ , ^ , and more elevated portions afford nothincr better

General aspect of tlie country. '^

than grazing grounds to the pastoral portion of

these tribes, the lower slopes are generally found clad with dense forests of
pine ; and the narrow and well sheltered valleys are cultivated, and yield, in
addition to wheat and millet sufficient for the consumption of its inha-
bitants, rich supply of grapes, apples and other fruits common in cool
climates,

4. The principal divisions of the Kaffir tribes are as follows, Traiegama,

^. . . ^ ., , Waiegal, Waillegal, Kam, Kamuz, Katti.Rahrah,

Divisions of tribes and country. c a , ,

Mundegal, Peh, and Kantor ; all of these are

again subdivided into endless sections, all of which it would be very difficult

and perhaps neither useful nor interesting to trace, but the following are

a few of them which, as already shown, are divisions of country as well as

of tribes.

1. Traiegama, divided into Gambhir, Kattar and Devi.

2. Waiegal, divided into Paintar, AVillwaie and Hangalli.

3. Kantor is the largest division and includes Kaynigal, Peh (again
divided into Bairkaina, Pimichgram and Atargam) and Gadu.

4. The Kieth is also a very numerous faction, chiefly pastoral, and has the
reputation of being the most ancient branch, as all the other divisions of the
tribe are said to have been offshoots from it. There are besides the above, a
great number of smaller tribes, to be found located along the bed of the main
stream, such as, Paj, Paintar, Pendesh, &c.

5. The form of government among the Kaffirs is a sort of patriarchal

republic, for there are certain families of ancient
Government and lands.

descent in each valley who are much looked up

to, and a conclave of the elders or white beards from among whom, settle all
matters of government, and when necessary malce peace or war. Blood-feuds
are very prevalent, and bitter, botli between individuals and tribes, and a very
common way of bringing about a reconciliation between families is to give a
daughter in marriage to some member of the opposition, but in such a case
it is understood that no dowry is exacted. Every Kaffir killing a Kaffir, no
matter what the provocation may have been, is driven out of his village for
three years, at least, after which time he may return with the consent of the
elders, but take his chance of being retaliated upon by the relatives of the
victim ; and in aggravated cases, he is not allowed to return at all. "Vengeance
is considered a sacred duty, but in the event of two Kaffirs who have a blood-
feud between them, meeting under circumstances precluding their settlino-
accounts on the spot (such as one of them having a guest with him) the
<i

i

[ 114 ]

party wishing for delay, throws his dagger on the ground, puts his foot on it,
and gives his reasons, while the other party advancing also places his foot
upon the weapon and both turning their backs on each other depart on their
respective business. With all Muhamraadans, Kaffirs have a mortal feud, even
with converts from their own tribes, and a youth is not considered to have
arrived at manhood until he has killed one or two at least ; the greater the
number the more exalted his position in society. An oath of peace among
Kaffirs in time of hostilities is taken by licking a piece of salt.

6. Kaffirs are physically athletic, powerftd men, leading an indolent jovial

kind of life, and totally ignorant of literature of
ne^7mf ''^'^''''^''°° ^""^ '^^"' any description ; they have no written language,

and pass the greater part of their time in hunt-
ing, raids, dancing and wine, seldom if ever engaging in trade ; and the
working classes, such as blacksmiths, carpenters, &c., are all from a certain
sect known as " Bani" or " Shoillah," who are looked upon somewhat in the
light of slaves, and perform all sorts of menial offices ; and some of the tribes
especially those towards Farjghan even sell them to the Nimchas, who are
themselves half-bred Kaffirs and carry on any necessary intercourse between
them and their Muharamadan neighbours.

7. The entire cultivation of the land is in the hands of the women, who

till, sow and reap ; they have no ploughs, but
their chief implements of husbandry are, a
pointed stick of hard wood, a three pronged-wooden fork, and a reaping hook,
a rope is fastened to the fork just above the prongs, and while one woman
pushes the fork into the ground as far as she can, a second one turns the soil
by pulling the rope foi wards ; as soon as a field has been turned over, it is
manured, and the surface being once more slightly forked up, it is sown and
watered ; when weeds appear the pointed stick is used to eradicate tliem, much
in the same way as a gardener in England would use a Dutch hoe.

8. The only class of free servants known among these wild tribes are

shepherds, and whenever a Kaffir gets very
Shepherds and sheep. , ■, . . ,

poor, he usually resorts to this occupation, the

general reward for such service is one sheep in twenty for six months attend-
ance, but should the shepherd contract to keep the flock for three years
consecutively, he is entitled to the fleece of the flock, their milk, and all the
he-goats born during that period, it being always understood that whatever
happens, the shepherd is expected to make over at least the same number of
sheep at the end of three years as he received upon assuming charge of them.
The common breed of sheep in the country is the Dumbah or fat-tailed
variety, with the exception of the Peh district, where large flocks of the long-

[ 115 ]

tailed sheep are to be seen. Each sheep and goat in a flock knows its name,
and will come when called like a hound out of a pack.

9. Polygamy is common among the Kaffirs, and like the Jews and Mu-

hammadans the surviving brother takes the
■^.-.^d^^^^ ^^ *^°" ^ '"'^ ° widows on the death of a brother : the landed

property of the family is always divided among
the widows, while the rest of the substance is equally distributed among the
sons ; daughters, being supposed to live with and assist the mothers until
disposed of by marriage) have no share in the inheritance. The condition of
women among these tribes is much less restrained than among Muhammadans ;
tliey do not conceal their faces, and wander about at pleasure, but are never
allowed to eat at the same table with men.

10. When a marriage has been determined upon between the members of

two families, a party of elders meet and arrange
Marriage ceremony. , . , .

tlie amount oi dowry, which is generally paid

in sheep or goats. On the day of the wedding, the friends of both parties

assemble at the house of the father of the bride, who provides a sumjjtuous

repast. The ceremony commences by the attendant priest sacrificing three

or four goats over bundles of dried juniper, or yew branches collected on the

ground ; some of the blood is waved towards the four corners of the earth,

supposed to be in the direction of the abodes of each of their deities, who are

called on by name, and a portion of the blood is then daubed on the forehead

of the bridegroom's father, the remainder being burnt on the dried bushes

just mentioned; the flame being increased by the oblations of the guests.

which consist of oil, butter and cheese thrown on the flume to feed the iiery

element. The repast is now served up upon round tables, while the guests sit

on three legged stools. This concluded, the bride is produced, bedecked in

all her finery, and accompanied by her husband, walks off" to her future home,

distributing dried fruits and confectionary to all whom she may meet on tlio

road; arrived at the threshold, the sacrifice of goats is again gone thiougli,

but the blood this time is sprinkled on the face of the bride's fatlier. Both

parties publicly accept each other as man and wife ; the priest invokes a

blessing on the union, and the ceremonv is wound up by the guests partaking

of a second sumptuous repast provided l>y the bridegroom's fiither.

11. Attached to each Kaffir village is a lying-in hospital, to which all

women are obliged to retire when about to be
confined, as the birth of a child within the pre-
cincts of a village is supposed to bring down the wrath of the gods in tho
ehapc of famine or pestilence : at the end of forty days tlie mother returns
to her home, a great feast is given, and the "little stranger" has a namtj
given him.

[ 116 ]

12. Kaffirs like many more enlightened nations appear never tliorouglilj

to appreciate a man's deeds until he is beyond
Funerals. . ^

all thanks, for the great event in a Kaffir's

history is his funeral : on this occasion the body is dressed out in its finest
attire and laid on a bed : the whole population of the village assemble at the
house, and keep up a perpetual round of dancing and singing, the men in one
party and the women in another, the body being taken up on the bed at in-
tervals and carried up and down the room ; in the case of a notable, tins
ceremony continues for eight or ten daj's, during which time all present are
feasted and regaled with wine, excepting the immediate relations of the
deceased who are supposed to be in too great grief to care for such things.
After the feasting is finished, the body is placed and nailed down in a box,
which is carried to the summit of a hill or other conspicuous spot, and placed
under some slielving rock sheltered from the weather, and the spot marked by
a cluster of flags mounted on long poles. If the man was a very great worthy,
his bones are treated to a new suit of clothes, a second commemorative feast,
and a new box at the end of five years. But should he have fallen in a quarrel
among his own tribe, he receives but a small portion of these honors. The
remains of ordinary folks are simply closed in a box and carried to the top of
some adjacent mountain, and there left without further ceremony. In the
case of a distinguished warrior who has fallen in battle at a distance from his
home, or under such circumstances that the body cannot conveniently be
brought home, his friends cut off his head and bring that home to receive the
honors, a body of straw being substituted in the clothing to complete the figure.

13. The religion of these tribes is a gross idolatry, though differing in

many particulars from that of Hindus. Their
Religion. . . i i i • > i i ,.

images are invariably moulded in tlie shape of

a man or woman, their chief deities are called Mahadeo, Paneo, Truskiu

Enmrai, Kaantar and Bruk, but the great god of which these are supposed to

be merely fractional parts, or incarnations, is known by the name of Dogan,

who is the creator of all things and wields the destinies of all mankind ; the

different incarnations having also some slight influence for good or evil. The

Kaffir has no belief in a future state of reward or punishment, but holds that

the principle of life is never extinct, for as soon as one eartbly body is

used up, the vital spark is immediately transferred to ainother of the same

species.

14. The priesthoods are invariably of a particular caste called " Utah,"

one family of which is attached to each idol to
Priests. p i •

perform the services and receive offerings.

These men are generally wealthy, and looked up to by the Kaffirs, who, with

this exception, ignore caste and all Hindu ceremonies as well as their ideas

[ 117 ]

of clean and unclean meats ; they will eat the flesli of cows and pigs and in

fact of all except carnivorous animals. Before
Dils or prophets. . • ■, i

undertaking an expedition, or indeed an^'^ matter

of great moment, a Kaffir generally sends for a " Dil" who is a sort of
hereditary prophet among them, and requires from him the oracular result ; on
these occasions the prophet seats himself mysteriously on the ground,
balancing a strong bow by the centre of the string between the fore-finger and
the thumb of both hands, placed close together, and calls on one of the deities
(but more especially Truskin) to declare what the result will be ; in about
quarter of an hour, should the bow oscillate in the direction of its length, the
answer is supposed to be propitious, but if sideways, the reverse. Should Tru-
skin not vouchsafe an answer, which is sometimes the case, another of the
deities is similarly applied to, the bystanders all the while throwing down
votive offerings before the Dil, for the god, to induce him to return
a favourable answer ; the Dil of course being the self-constituted purse-
bearer.

15. As the account of the religion of these tribes given by Mr. Elphinstone
somewhat differs from the above obtained by me from men of Trijuma and
Peh, I give it, he says.

" The religion does not resemble any otliur with which I am acquainted.

They believe in one god, whom the Kaffirs of
Mr. Elphinstone's account. - „- , -r-.

Kamdesh call Imra, and those of TsoUoi Dogan,

but they also worship numerous idols, which tliey say represent great men of

former days who intercede with god in favour of their worshippers. These idols

are of stone or wood, and always represent men or women, sometimes mounted

and sometimes on foot. Malla Najib had an opportunity of learning the arts

which obtain an entrance to the Kaffir Pantheon. In the public apartment of the

village of Kamdesh, was a high wooden pillar on which sat a figure with a

spear in one hand and a staff in the other. This idol represented tlie father

of one of the great men of the vilhige, who had erected it himself in his

lifetime, having purchased the privilege by giving several feasts to the whole

village ; nor was this the only instance of a man deified for sucli reasons, and

worshipped as much as any other of the gods. The Kaffirs appear indeed to

attach tlie utmost importance to the virtues of liberality and hospitality. It

is they which procure the easiest admission to their paradise, which they call

Bari-le-Bula, and the opposite vices are the most certain guides to Bari-

Daffiir-Bula, or hell."

16. When about to make a sacrifice to the gods, a Kaffir first takes water,

and pronouncing the name of the deity it is
Sacrifices. . ...

intended to pr(tpitiate, dashes a handful of it

[ 118 ]

into the animal's ear, vvlien, if tlie victim shakes his head to get i id of the
water, it is supposed to be a sign that the sacrifice will be accepted, but if not
the animal is not killed. All cattle and sheep taken in battle with their
enemies are sacrificed to the gods and not one kept, while all arms, &c.,
become the property of the captors.

17. These tribes are noted even among their Muhamraudan neighbours for

the faith with which they keep every compact
once entered into. A Kaffir before breaking a
truce, even when made for a stipulated time, invariably sends a brace of bullets
or arrows as a significant hint of his future intentions, but like most barbarous,
and some which consider themselves civilized, tribes, they consider any deceit
fair in love or war. This race looks upon hospitality as a sacred duty, and
when an old and intimate friend comes to a Kaffir's house, the host runs to
the flock and brings bis finest ram, which is killed, and a handful of the blood
sprinkled on the forehead of his guest, while the flesh is cooked for his dinner.
When a very celebrated character arrives in a village, the people turn out,
place him aloft on a charpai and dance about with him thus raised and
around him for two or three hours, with music and firing guns and pistols,
but these are honors seldom conferred ; perhaps once in ten or twelve
years.

18. Houses are usually built on the slope of a hill: the walls are formed of

stone, mud and wood fitted together, and rise
Houses. .,.,,.

two or three stones ni lieight, havujg under-
ground cellars for wine. The upper apartments are reached by stairs formed
of the trunks of three or four large trees, placed in a slanting direction,
side by side, having deep notches cut in them to answer the purpose of
steps.

19. Kaffir wines are of two classes, dark or light, according to the colour of

the grapes used in the manufacture, none but
W iiiGs

children are allowed by their laws of the land to

touch the vines before an appointed period, when the whole tribe set to work
and get in their vintage, this custom was adopted in order to ensure the
grapes being thoroughly ripe before they are made into wine, and secure its
being of the best quality. The fruit is trodden in a large wooden trough,
from which a small spout conducts the juice on to a grass sieve, placed over
the mouth of a large earthen or stone vat, in which the wine is allowed to
settle and ferment, the froth which rises being daily skimmed off. As soon
as the process of fermentation is over, the sediment is removed from the bottom
of the vat in wooden ladles, with the greatest care, to prevent tlie wine becom-
ing muddy, after which the mouth of the vat is closed with mud, and remains

[ 119 ]

so for three or four months, when the wine is fit for use, but the longer it is
kept the more it is valued. When the whole of the wine has been used,
bread is soaked in the lees at the bottom of the vat, and in this shape forms
a recherche dish among Kaffirs.

20. In killing sheep for food, Kaffirs cut their throats by sticking the knife

through and cutting outwards ; bullocks are
Killing food. „,,,-, .,i i i -i

first knocked down with a pole-axe, and then

bled to death. Some of these tribes will not eat fowls owing to their alwaj-s

feeding on dungheaps, and consider them unclean, for which reason they are

scarce.

21. I cannot better describe the account of the Kaffirs given by themselves
than by extracting the following passage from Sir Alexander Burnes' Notes on
these tribes, which I have had corroborated by Faramosh Khan, a Kaflir slave
from Waigal, and General of the Troops of Sirdar Ghulam llydar Khan heir-
apparent of Cabul.

" In speaking of their nation, these tribes designate themselves as the

Muhanimadans do, Kaffirs, with which they
Kaffir account of themselves.

do not couple any oi)probnous meanmg,

though it implies infidel. They consider themselves descended from one
Kourhshye, and tlii-ir Muhammadan neighbours either corrupt the word,
or assign them a lineage from Koresh, one of the noblest of the tribes of
Arabia, to the language of which country they further state that of the
Kaffirs to be allied. Tliey have no distinctions of black and white Kaffirs
that I could hear of and one of my Kaffir informants assured me that his
tribe looked upon all as brothers who wore ringlets and drink wine. They
have no definite idea of the surrounding countries, Bajour and Kumar to
the south, being the limits of their geographical knowledge. They have no
books, nor is reading or writing knowri in the nation, so that they have no
recorded, traditions. Their country has many table-lands, some of which
extend for fifteen or twenty miles, and on these there are always villages.
Waigal and Kamdesh are on one of these plateaus. The winter is severe, but
in summer, grapes ripen in abundance. They do not appear to carry on any
combined operations against their neighbours, but they retaliate when an
invasion of their frontier takes place, and are very inveterate against the Mu-
hanimadans and give no quarter to captives. They possess great ability and
activity, qualities which their enemies accord to them, Muhammadans seldom
venture to enter their country as travellers, but Hindus go as mercliants and
beggars (fakirs) and are not ill-used. They are very fond of music and
dancing, but, as in eating, the men separate from the women, and the dance of
the one sex differs from that of the other. Both were exhibited to me : that

[ 120 ]

of the men consists of three hops on one foot and leaps with both feet going'
round in a circle. They have a two-stringed instrument and a kind of drum
for music."

" The mode of life among the Kaffirs is described as social, since they
frequently assemble at each others houses, or under the trees which embosom
them, and have drinking parties. In winter they sit round a fire and talk of
their exploits. They drink from silver cups, trophies of their spoil in war.
Old and young of both sexes drink wine, and grape juice is given to children
at the breast. A Hindu who was present at a Kaffir's marriage informed me
that the bridegroom had his food given to him behind his back because he
had not killed a Muliammadan.

" Enmities frequently arise among them, but the most deadly feud may be
extinguished by one of the parties kissing the nipple of his antagonist's left
breast, as being typical of drinking the milk of friendship, the other party
then returns the compliment by kissing the suitor on the head, when they
become friends till deatli. The Kaffirs do not sell their children to Muham-
madans, though a man in distress, may sometimes dispose of his servant or
steal a neighbour's child and sell him."

22. Shakur, a Kaffir slave at Kandahar, related to me that when he

was taken, he had been enticed down by a pre-
Shakur Khan captive. i -i ,. • i ,. , • i t^t • i j

tended friend from his home at Waigai to a

border village near Chigar serai, on the pretence of some private business,

but on entering a house there, he suddenly found himself seized by a number

of Affghans who were concealed on the premises, was carried off by them

and forcibly converted to Muhammadanisin.

23. There has long been a feud between the tribes of Waigai and those of

Peh, and the inhabitants of these two districts are
"Pehduz." , . ...

constantly organising raids against each other,

which have resulted in Waigai being almost denuded of its flocks and herds. For,
while they have been exposed, the Peh tribe have constructed extensive subterra-
nean labyrinths, the passages of which are for the most part, only wide enough
for one person moving along at a time, into which they drive the sheep and
cattle on any signal of alarm being given, and when an enemy attempts to
follow them into these burrows he is sure to get bewildered, and by taking
wrong turnings exposes himself to attacks from all quarters. These caves are
known among the Kaffirs by the name of " Peh duz."

24. The general dress of these Kaffirs is made of tanned goats' skins,

cured with the hair on which circumstance has
Dress.

obtained, for these people the general name of

" Seah posh." In Peh, however, and some other districts, as well as among the

[ 121 ]

riclier families, clotliing ia oftener made of a coarse woollen home-?pnn fabric.
Mr. Klphinstone saj's on this liead, " That Kaffirs in good circumstances and
those near the Affghans wear a shirt beneath their vest, and in summer the
shirt forms the whole of their dress, as it always does with the women. The
great do nut wear goat skins, but cotton cloth or black hair cloth, some also
wear the sort of white blanket, woven in the neighbouring country of Kashgar.
The blankets are put on like the Highland plaids, come down to near the knee,
and are fastened with a belt, they also wear cotton trowsers which, as well as their
shirts, are worked all over with flowers in red and black worsted. The trowsers
are slit at the bottom, so as to make a sort of frhige. They also wear
worsted stockings or perhaps worsted fillets rolled round their legs, and the
warriors wear half boots of white goat-skins. Mr. E. says that tliough ex-
asperated to fury by the persecutions of the Mumhammadans, the Kaffirs ai'e
in general a harmless, affectionate, and kind-hearted people. Though passion-
ate, they are easily appeased : they are merry, playful, fond of laughter, and
altogether of a sociable and joyous disposition."

25. While at Kandahar, I have taken considerable pains to get from

Kallirs any traditions which they may have ot

Oriizin of tliese tribes and .1 ■ • • i 1 1; ., 4.1 „«. <.i „ „,. . i-u

., . p then- own ori<;m, and believe that they are noth-

tlieir lauguage. ° ' ''

ing more nor less than the aborigines of the

plain country, who refusing to change their religion on the advance of

** Islam" were driven from the plain country by the Muhammadan fanatics

and took refuge in the inaccessible fastnesses of their present homes. For

they lay claim to the whole of AflTghanistan. And my endeavours to master

their language spoken in Trigania and Waigal (a vocabulary of which is to be

found at the end of this [laper) further strengtliens this idea from the evident

Sanskrit root ofmany of the words. Mr. El[)hin-
Mr. Elphinstone's account.

stone says, " Ihcre are several languages among

the Kaffirs, but tliey have all many words in common, and all have a near

connexion with the Sanskrit. They have all one peculiarity, which is that they

count by scores instead of hundreds, that their thousand (which they call by

a Persian and Pushtu name) consists of four hundred or twenty score. All

these observations apply also to the Lughmani or Dogani language, which

seems to be a Kaffir dialect, and gives reason to suppose the Lugiimanis

Uoganis to be Kaffirs converted to the Muhammadan religion. 1 imagine the

inhabitants of the Kohistan of Cabul to have the same origin, particularly as ^

tlie name of Kohistani is that applied to all the lately converted Kalfirs. This j

derivation of their language seems fatal to the descent of the Kallirs from the

Greeks, and their traditions do not furnish us with any distinct account of their

i origin."

i T22 ]

2G. When a Kaffir has killed five Muliammadans, he is considered a brave

__ , man (Bahadur) and when he can make the num-

A Heroe s monument or dal. .....

ber up to sixty, he is entitled to set up a squared

pole with the figure of himself (sometimes only a head, at others a whole

figure or even the man on horseback) carved on the top of it, close to hia

village, and a peg of wood is put through the pole alternately from either

side, for every man he has killed; this monument is called a " dal," but, as

may readily be supposed, tliere are not very many of them. In the whole

Waigal district thei'e is only one, which stands on the bank of the river and

is in memory of one Janik.

27. Kaffir slaves are greatly sought after by the AfPghans on account of

. , „ , . their known courage and fidelity, and the pre-

KaiBr slaves m Aiiglianistan. . . \ • ^ ■^ \ n i •

sent reigmng Barakzai family have all their

confidential body servants from these tribes, as well as young boys who attend
upon the females of their " harem ;" the price of a Kaffir boy is from 40 to
200 Co.'s Ks. Kaffir girls when caught are brought up by rich families as
slaves, and fetch so much per span in height, according to their looks ; a very
pretty one has been known to sell at 100 Rs. per span, or almost her weight
in silver. They are said to be exceedingly fair, but like Circassians and Geor-
gians are wanting in animation. These slaves are generally procured through
tlie agency of rascally Nimchas (half breeds) in the neighbourhood of Faraj-
ghan and Chigarsarai. Nothing but the dilliculty of the approaches to their
alpine fastnesses, and their own well known bravery, could have enabled these
tribes to remain so long independent, surrounded as they are on all sides by
a bigoted Muhammadan population, with whose chiefs, right is might and who
are ever on the watch for opportunities of adding to their power or for turning
a penny.

28. The two most practicable routes into Kaffiristan seem to be that from
Jalalabad up the banks of the Kunur river to Chigarsarai, described as being
in many places exceedingly difficult, with several kothals or steep ascents to
be crossed, only practicable for lightly laden mules, with commanding heights
towering over the road. The other route has been described by Lt. Leech
in his report to Government on the passes of tlie Hindu Kush ; it goes from
Cabul to Farajghan and then to Darban ; " This route was adopted by Mir
Taimur in his attack on the Kaffirs, which was made at the instigation of the
inhabitants of Anderab, who had suifered much from the tyranny of the
former. He mentions tlie difficulty of these passes to have been so great that
his army was obliged to wait till the snow froze at night ; when they marched
on it, and in the daytime halted, spreading blankets under the horses' feet
to prevent them sinking in the snow ; and that to enter the valley of Kaflir-

[ 123 ]

istan, they were obliged to tlismouiit and send their horses back, and to ^lide
down the mountain, the Mir himself being let down by a rope. Several fine
horses were ruined in an attempt to be let down in a similar manner. Sueh
enterprises might have been undertaken by Taimur, but he appears to have
belonged to a very different breed from the rulers of Affghanistan and the
countries round Kaffiristan in the present day."

29. The following is the route from Jalalabad to Chighar serai, followed by
a force which went up as far as Dauai under the late Sirdar Muhammad Akbar
Khan in the summer of 1844.

From Jalalabad to Bizzabik, 12 j- miles, road passing Besut and through
the Tangi Takchi Darrah. liizzarik is a fort in the Darya-i-Xur valley.

Getampue. — 16 miles, over a difficult road along the bank of the river.

NuRGAL. — 18 miles. This is a ver}' tiresome march, all up and down the
whole way, cro!^sing spur after spur, and winding down to the bed of tl»e
stream again. From A'urgal a path leads into the rich valley of Kumar
which is said to be covered with forts and villages and well cultivated (on this
line the Kumar river is crossed at the village of Paltan by a bridge.) the
river is exceedingly rapid and deep.

Dari choki. — 20 miles. Another difficult march of much the same
nature as yesterday.

Narang. — 14 miles. Cross a kothal on which is a tower called Kotihi
buij and tiirough the village of Kotihi onto Narang. This is a considerable
place ; on the opposite bank of the river are two villages in the small valley
of Posh ad.

Chigar Sarai. — IG miles, Eoad comparatively level until reaching this
town, where a considerable hill has to be got over. Throusirh Harang, Kafil-
labs of laden mules occa,sionally pass from Bajur to Cabul in order to avoid
the country of the Gigeonis. They cross the range of mountains of which the
Kowghai mountain is a prominent peak, by the MuUakaud pass, to the north
of that snowy point, and coming down by Siraki and Donai, cross the river to
Isarang.

The total distance fronj Jalulabivd to Chigar sarai by this route would thus
be about 97 miles.

R 2

[ 121 ]

A Vocabulary of tie Kaffir

Abandon, to, v. a.

Abate, to, v. n.

Abide, to, v. n.

Abiding,

Able, to be, v. n.

Abode,

Abolisb, to, V. a.

Above,

Abscess,

Abscond, to,

Absorb, to,

Abstain, to,

Abuse,

Accompany, to,

Accomplice,

Accord,

Account, to,

Acbe, to,

Acid,

Acquaintance,

Active,

Admonition,

Advance, to,

Adversity,

Afar,

Afraid, to be,

After,

Again,

Agree, to,

Agreement,

Ailment,

Alarm,

Aligbt, to,

Alike,

Alive,

All,

Language as spohen in Traieguma and
Waigul.

Utawen.

A'pilok beasen.

Utiassin,

Puta ben.

Ben.

Sbea, or imi.

Otaivi.

Phuwah.

Mdki.

Shenstachun.

Neien.

Sukkan.

Yarrabiin.

Yarra.

Sens.

Eaien,

Ddeas.

Chukurlussfi.

Pullaie.

Kukka.

Chuchawista.

Nislipren prutta.

Dungova.

Sudiiwa.

Wediin.

Putaken.

Aumga bar.

Boien.

Sirazen.

Numutchid.

Widiassa.

ITcbiin.

Epegbr.

Ginta.

Supriik.

I

[ 125 ]

Allot, to,

Alone,

Also,

Alternately,

Amass, to.

Ancestors,

Anger,

Annoy, to.

Answer, to,

Ant,

Antagonist,

Antelope,

Antler,

Apart,

Appear, to,

Appearance,

Appease, to,

Appetite,

Applaud, to,

Apple, an,

Appoint, to.

Apprehend, to,

Apprize, to,

Approve, to.

Argue, to,

Arise, to,

Arm, the.

Armed,

Army, an.

Arrogance,

Arrow,

Artful,

Amour,

Ascertain, to,

Ashamed,

Ashamed, to be,

Ashes,

Ask, to,

Asleep,

Ass, an,

Muttechun.
Poken.

r.

Par-e-par.

Suprun or Elaw Kriiu.

Illutta.

tfrush.

Tingabun.

Muttreri.

Pimlik.

Puchunna.

Murrung.

Singh.

Poken.

Weango.

Kunassur.

Sirdawen.

Awutta.

Sawaschiin.

Pultah.

Preshe.

Dumawi.

Shidaun.

Biisazin,

Melenchiin.

Oshtiin.

Di'isht.

Duckra or Ire.

Kuttuki.

Eollubuliik.

Kan or Kain.

Chun.

Irak.

AViimun.

Lejarah.

Lejarah Beush.

Ain ba Palal.

Muthaun.

Proshwa.

Guddah.

[ 1^6 ]

Assail, to,
Assault, an,
Assay, to.
Assemble, to,
Assent, to,
Assistance,
Assume, to,
Astonished,
Augment, to,
Aunt, an,
Autumn,
Awake,
Aware,
Awe,
Awkward,
Axe.

B.
Back, the,
Back, ach.
Bad,
Bag,
Bake, to,
Bald,
Bandage,
Bare,
Barefoot,
Bareheaded,
Bark (of a tree),
Barley,

Barren (as a woman),
Base,

Bashful, to be.
Bathe, to.
Battle,

Beak, (of a bird)
Beam,
Bear, a.
Beard,
Beat, to.
Beautiful,

Wi.

Sunneh.

Itachun.

Suprokat.

Oi Shaw.

Bostakhon.

Tup Tapich.

Hiran.

Etchu Kunin.

Muchai or Shuri.

Sari.

"Wejista.

Swieddi.

Widih.

Digellah.

Chavi.

Dukka.

Puttaken.

Ulrah.

Kuchok.

Puchiin.

Alliil.

Sutituplawi or dam, Mochutri.

Nagusta.

Kur nagusta.

Schaf nagusta.

Ostum ba cham.

Eu or zu.

Slieshista.

Ulrah.

Lajarubiin.

Oyanchiin.

Shiich.

Nashu.

Ula oshtum.

Berew.

Duh.

Wiun.

Gadistii.

[ 127 ]

Bedstead,

Bee, a,

Befall,

Before,

Beg, to.

Beggar, a,

Begin, to,

Begone, interj.

Beguile, to,

Behind,

Believe, to,

Belly,

Beneath,

Bend, to.

Bent, (crooked)

Beside, (near)

Bft,

Betimes,

Betrothal,

Between,

Big,

Bind, to,

Bird,

Bit, (piece)

Bitch, a,

Bitter,

Blaclc,

Blacken, to,

Blacksmith,

Bleed, to,

Blemish,

Bhnd,

Blood,

Blow, to,

Board,

Boasting,

Body, the,

Boil, a,

Boil, to,

Bone,

Prunalit.

Michi ba mshok.

Bun.

Nuchtari.

Wichiia.

Dungovah.

Eichiin.

Pip sik.

Duttan.

Putari.

Priii chiin.

Kuto.

Un.

Attuklaini,

AttukuUa.

Yerra.

Dani.

Oestuk.

Aeliiin.

Mariu.

iruih.

Griintun.

Nigussa.

Pisriik.

Seun.

Charra.

Kacha.

Kacha kuiaiin.

Chinia kura.

Lai virsiin.

Ubrah.

Serah.

Lai.

Peun.

Du.

irilabullak.

Git.

Powah.

Assahiin.

Utti.

[ 128 ]

Bore, to,

Both,

Bough,

Bow, a,

Bowl, a.

Bowstring,

Box,

Boy,

Brackish, (as water)

Brandish, to.

Brave,

Bravo !

Bread,

Break, to, v. a.,

Breathe, to,

Breed,

Bright,

Bring,

Bring forth, to, (young)

Broad,

Broken,

Broom,

Brotlier,

Brother-in-law,

Brush, to.

Browse, to,

Buffalo,

Bug, a.

Bull, a,

Bullet,

Bullock,

Bunch,

Bundle, a.

Burden, (a load)

Burn, to, V. a..

Burst, to, V. n.,

Bury, to.

Bush, a,

Business,

Butter,

Soichun.

Yanbiin.

Ostum ba dow.

Driin or Shingdrii.

Dumli.

Gochi or Shingdii.

Tawanek.

Dubhah.

Chukurlusta.

Arraraun.

Simrusfa.

Sabris.

Aujdi or Eu.

Sapuii.

Sa de saiin.

Duri.

Julliassa.

Awetissa.

Ziiin (animals), Uljajauu (women).

T/la slid.

Supi.

Drill.

Brah.

Wawai.

Tukaiin.

Churrjiiin.

Mesli e Gah.

Gozah.

Beaunah.

Pransewik.

Ga or Tiirran.

Mandukka.

Bah.

Batra.

Dishkuu or Dcshchun, v. n.

Ulattangun.

Kacluiwie.

Durah.

Koedun.

Uuuu.

[ 129 ]

Butter-milk,
Buy, to,

C.
Ciijole,
Calamity,
Calculation,
Call, to.
Camel,
Canal,
Capital,
Careful,
Careless,
Cat,

Catch, to,
Cause,
Cave,
Cease, to.
Certainly,
Chaff,
Chair,
Cheat,
Clieese,
Chew the cud.
Chicken,
Chide, to,
Ciiief,
Child,
Childless,
Chin,

Choose, to.
Churn, to.
Churn, a.
Circular,
City,
Claim,
Clan,
Claw, •
Clean,
Clean, to,
Clever,

S

Wuschip.
Wechiiu.

Duttauii.

Kakuslah,

Gaiin.

Chaiteh.

I7kh.

Shuelau or Shuelaw.

Mai.

Kushilah.

Bearh.

Fishau.

Dame.

Kussii.

Shii.

Suraun.

Bai.

Euss.

Sliingncshai.

Kuttaniush.

Killi

Ashalwensli.

Kilkil ba kd.

Lijarakriin.

Ifla munush or Salauiaiiash.

Dublah (M.) Dubli (F.)

Kutshista.

Duhutti.

Bostazaun.

Nokiiwi.

Moka.

Punrostah.

Des.

Sochchtin.

Duri.

Chuputta.

Pak.

Pak krun.

Chuchilusta.

[ i30 ]

Cloak, a,

Clod, a,

Close, to,

Cloth,

Clothes,

Clouds,

Club,

Coat,

Coax, to.

Cobbler,

Cock,

Coerce, to.

Cold,

Colour,

Comb, a.

Comb, ta,

Come, to,

Comfort,

Command,

Commit,

Compact,

Companion,

Complain,

Complete, to.

Complexion,

Comply, with.

Comprehend, to.

Compute, to,

Comrade,

Conceal, to.

Concern, (busiuess)

Confess, to, 0

Confront, "^'^

Conjecture,

Conquer,

Conscience,

Consider, to,

Constitute,

Contented,

Converse, to.

Choka.

Pullal to kunna.

Pipsi.

Piitch or Kamis.

Chullapech.

Zerrah or M^yar.

Dun.

Kfivvesh.

Pucliaun.

Wazai, Epawall^.

Kiiku.

Akachandate.

Euz.

Peghr.

Prowan.

Prowan e chiin.

Eas.

Satwi,

Mut.

Prutta.

Melakrun,

Yarrah.

Chiiuchas.

Buri.

Kuunsissa.

Boiezean.

Purojam.

Guankun.

Yarrah.

Chunavvin.

Tokussu.

Povakunawin.

Moka muk kawin.

Zam.

Katbim.

Sukan.

Echakuri.

Sukin.

Surazavvi.

Sacunchigo.

[ 131 ]

Convey,

Convoy,

Cook, to,

Cool, to.

Corner,

Corpe, a.

Corpulent,

Cost,

Cotton,

Cougli, to.

Cough, a,

Count,

Countenance,

Counterpane,

Country,

Cousin,

Cow,

Cowardly,

Crack, to,

Crack, a,

Craftiness,

Create, to.

Created,

Crooked,

Cross, to.

Crow,

Cry, a.

Cry, to.

Cultivate, to.

Cunning,

Curds,

Cure, to,

Cup,

Curl,

Custom,

Cut, to.

Cut, (wounded)

D.
Dagger,
Daily,

s 2

vjruroge;iz.

Skomelago.

Puehawin.

Cliillawin.

Kunj.

Mosta.

Krulussa.

Mdl.

Poch or Pochi.

Kase chan.

Kassa.

Giin.

Muk.

Brustun.

Kullatur.

Goieta or Istri taw.

Masliilah.

Ulaliu or LTJul.

Spangoslii.

Leha.

Luttaiin.

Lutti.

Ullulla or Attukulla.

Juriin.

Wucl.yi.

Chah.

Cliaheclum.

Kukaehu.

Dotullah.

Truh.

BoibuQ.

Dumbi.

Chuuk.

Edat.

Saniin.

Cliiiba.

Kuttural).
WasuassuQ.

[ 132 ]

Dance, to,

Danger,

Dark,

Daughter,

Daunt, to,

Day,

Dead,

Deaf,

Dearth,

Death,

Debate,

Debt,

Debtor,

Decrepit,

Deer,

Defect,

Defend,

Delay,

Delicate,

Delighted, to be.

Deliver, (to save)

Depart, to,

Descend, to.

Descendants,

Desert, a.

Desert, (as a soldier

Regiment)
Desire, to.
Desert, or Abandon,
Despicable,
Detain, to,
Detect, to,
DifFei'ent,
Difficult,
Dig, to,
Diminish, to.
Dip, to.
Direction,
Directly,
Dirt.

from

Nachiin.

Widik.

Tramacha.

Dubli.

Widikaun,

Gar ash.

Muvvn.

Boah.

Apilok.

Moviid.

Eattun, Melaechiin.

Dani.

Danibiin.

Chechiluttah,

Marang.

Abura.

Sumatun.

Puttubiin.

Simlistah.

Shahteun.

Sumcitaun.

Chu-iin.

U'achun.

Zugga.

Giil or Ghotad^.

Miikun.

Wachiin.

Utavven.

Ubrah.

Puttaban.

Purrajun.

Orunga.

Ivukah.

Kucluiun.

Apriikchun.

Unachun.

Ken.

Emullf.

Wavvo.

[ 133 ]

Dirty,

Disclose, to,

Discontent,

Disease,

Disgrace,

Disguise, to,

Dismiss, to,

Dismount, to,

Disobedient, to be,

Dispel, to.

Displeasure,

Disposition,

Dispute,

Dissolve, to,

Distance,

Distant,

Distinct,

Distinguish, to, (recognize),

Distressed, (he was)

Distressed, to be,

Distribute, to,

Ditto, to,

Dog,

Door,

Doubt,

Down adv.

Duze,

Draw, to.

Dread,

Dread, to.

Dream, to,

Dress, to,

Drink,

Drive away, to,

Drop, a,

Drove,

Drunk,

Drunk, to be,

Dry,

Piy, to,

Negh,

Waun.

Tengawan.

Namachabu.

Wutchlants.

Arraraun.

Ottaun,

Uachun.

Mella na oechiiu.

Pissaun.

Haush.

Buah.

Shuch.

Willan.

Kitti.

Siidii.

Poken.

Zaun.

Chotanwah.

Chetanbun.

INIutti chuu.

Echiin.

T*iin.

Dii.

Bukemalias.

l/en.

Proshtchun.

Taun.

AVedik.

Wedikaiin.

Proshwaiin.

Amachun.

Peiin.

Dikaiin.

Epa, to drop, Sussuu.

Palle.

Beah.

Beahbun.

Sheshinslali.

Shechaun.

[ 134 ]

Duck, a,

Zik.

Dumb,

Buah.

Dust,

Pussolahudu.

Dwell, to.

Teamish.

E.

Each,

Ek ek.

Ear,

Kar.

Ear, an, (of corn)

Eumka.

Early,

Uropuk.

Earn, to,

Push pall Luttaun.

Eartli,

Pullal.

Earthquake,

Chum or Chumme

East,

Soi Ken.

Eat, to,

Zeum.

Edge,

Ken.

Effects,

Mai.

^SS,

Eow.

Eight,

l/st or Seht,

Eighteen,

Elash.

Eighth, the,

LTstum.

Either,

Eah.

Elapse,

Peturriin.

Elbow, the,

Ayah.

Elder, (senior)

Deshleun.

Eleven,

Zash.

Eleventh,

Zashm,

Elongate,

Driglachun.

Eighty,

Chatawasi.

Elsewhere,

Oumgalaw.

Employment,

Koridum.

Empty,

Suuh.

Enamoured,

Pakiin.

Enclose, or encompass.

Arrariin.

Encourage,

Emaboah tabiin.

End,

Puttiin.

Enemy, an.

Pachanah.

Enmity,

Sochwen.

Enough,

J3au.

Enquiry,

Kodaun.

Entangled,

Damagum.

[ 135 ]

Entire,

Entrails,

Equal,

Equalize, to,

Erelong, (soon)

Erect,

Error,

Escape, to,

Escort,

Estimate,

Evening,

Every,

Everywhere,

Evil,

Ever,

Example,

Exceedingly,

Excellent,

Exchange,

Excuse,

Executioner,

Execute, to, (put to doatli)

Exert, (one's self)

Expectation,

Expel, to.

Expend, to.

Expensive,

Explain, to,

Explode, to,

Extent,

Extricate,

Extinguish, to,

Eye, the.

Eye-brow,

Eye-lash,

F.
Pace,

Face-to-face,
Faculty,
Faint, to,

Sapriik.

J hew.

Barabar.

Barabar echiin.

Eneri.

Utenishtah.

Ubrah.

Mokun.

Dungawi.

Gaun.

Awazas hekh.

Ekek ekek.

Akunieo.

Ubrah.

Jhuiii.

Seddt.

Echu.

Bostah.

Nemal.

Echuzari.

Jdinlah Maudsb.

Jain chiin.

Kat chiin.

Prash Butariu.

Siidii euk.

Suehdiin.

Echu kukka.

Paun.

Uin.

Vritti.

Surraiin.

Jeiin.

Achi.

Achinshai.

Piitiik.

Mukh.

Miikh-a-mukh.
Jicliich.
Clietta buD.

[ 136 ]

Fair,

Kushurah,

Fall, to,

U'suruUin.

Fallen,

Miringistah.

Fallow,

Gul.

False,

Laolulti.

Family,

A'man.

Famine,

Welaisutter.

Fan,

Pakkah.

Far,

Sodii.

Fast, (as a horse)

. ~ Sunulussa.

Fast, a,

Omjjah.

Fasten,

Grontiin,

Fat, adj.

BuUawiih.

Fat, of meat,

Sikiih.

Fate,

IVasib.

Father,

Fa ra or Falla.

Fatigue,

Krussuri.

Fatte-n,

BuUawuh chun.

Faultless,

A sin.

Fear,

Wedik.

Fear, to,

Wediliaiin.

Fearlessly,

Newedias.

Feast, a.

Wedeshah.

Feather,

Putai.

Fee,

Shtik kah paun

Feeble,

Kat nudustah.

Feed, to,

Zenun.

Feign, to,

Laiehiin.

Felt,

Islah.

Female, (animal)

Ishtri kishli.

Ferry,

Petuuui.

Fetch, to.

Aun.

Felter

Jingir,

Feud,

Pucbnurrah.

Fever,

Teiah.

Few,

Apelok apelok-

Field,

Tol.

Fiend,

Papenah.

Fifteen,

Cbadesb.

Fifty,

Dowesbi dosh.

I

[ 137 ]

Fig,

Kumith.

Fight,

Soch.

Fight, to,

Sochun.

Fill, to,

Burah diit pure

Finally,

Puttum.

Fine,

Sumlustah.

Finger,

Ungii or Azua.

Finish,

Bull.

Fire,

Ain or Ai.

Firelock,

Topuk.

Firm,

Kukah.

First,

Nushtari.

Fish,

Musha.

Fist,

Musht.

Five,

Flinch.

Fix,

Dungjiiin..

Flame, (of a fire)

Shuttah.

Flat,

Barabar.

Flea, a,

Prunch.

Flee, to,

jMiikun.

Fleece,

Wuruk.

Flesh,

Unudli.

Flint,

Ain paier Diu.

Flock,

Pali.

Flour,

Braf.

Flow, to,

Chu un.

Flower, a.

Push.

Flurry, to,

Wedikailn.

Fly, to, (as a bird)

Puttai wendh.

Fly, a.

Mushuck.

Flash, a,

Prubiii.

Foam,

Shala A chun.

Fodder,

Fis.

Follow, to,

Puttari bda.

Food,

Enun.

Foot,

Kor.

Forbid, to.

Nowtaien.

Force,

Kilt.

Forcibly,

Kat a uiilli.

Ford, a,

Pitartjn taw.

T

[ 138 ]

Forefathers,

Forehead,

Foreign,

Foremost,

Forest, a,

Forget, to,

Forgive,

From, to.

Former,

Forsake, to,

Foot,

Forthwith,

Forty,

Four,

Found,

Fountain,

Fourteen,

Fowl,

Fox, a,

Fraud,

Free,

Friend,

Friendship,

Frighten, to,

Frog, a,

Frost,

Fruit,

Fry, to.

Fugitive,

Full,

Fur,

Funeral.

Garment,

Gather, to,

General,

Generation,

Gently,

Genuine,

Get,

G.

Tala-e-lultah.

Tulliik ro Taluk.

Orungah.

Mishtarl.

Dahpeti.

Pramushtun.

irtai.

Surazaiin.

Nushtalli.

Utavvi.

Kullah.

Enari.

Doweshi.

Chutta.

Luttaiinhun.

Surdurrah.

Trdnsh.

Cukun.

Lawasha.

Dutaiin.

Surazawi.

Soli.

Soli biiu.

Wedaun.

Aromokek.

Zeus.

Deraz.

Puchaun.

Mukauuchas.

Burri.

Kench.

Tavvauik.

Chullapech.

Tnikaiin.

Ulla munus.

Durri.

Astak.

Seall.

Luttua.

[ 139 ]

Get up, to,

Ghee, (clarified butter)

Gibber,

Gift,

Girl,

Give, to,

Glad,

Glitter, to,

Glove,

Go,

Goat, a,

Goat, (the wild)

Goblet,

God,

God forbid,

God knows.

Gold,

Good,

Goose,

Governor,

Grain,

Granddaughter,

Grandfather,

Grandmother,

Grandson,

Grape,

Grass,

Gratis,

Grave,

Graveyard,

Gray,

Graze,

Grease, to.

Great,

Green,

Grief,

Grine,

Grind,

Grindstone,

Gripes,

T 2

Ushtun.

Unuu.

Tilaon.

Prutu.

Dubbulli.

Pruttun.

Satias or Melessah.

PuUakun.

Dosht punnii.

Chiin.

Wussoi,

Sew.

Wovai.

Dogan.

Dogan Nech&bii.

Dogan Piassa.

Sun or Sone.

Bostah.

Auni.

Multalcan Wai.

Unn.

Nawahsi.

Elutta.

Ellai.

Nawdh.

Drass.

Eniis.

Edah.

Davvat.

Jyamtah.

Xushurah.

Cherraua.

Sipaiin.

U'llah.

Pullishta or Zuz.

Chitan.

Chitan chiia.

Pissiin.

Zeonpisso.

Shaulaw.

[ UO ]

Ground,

Bhum.

Grove, a, (as of trees)

Chokajullah, or Bun.

Guess,

Binniah.

Guest,

Widesha.

Guide, a,

Zumastah.

Guitar,

Wans.

Gum,

Joe,

Gun,

Topak.

Gunpowder,

Ushai.

Gunsmith,

Chinnakurrah.

H.

Hail,

Usshen.

Hair,

Chok or Kens.

Half,

Emullah.

Halve, to,

Eniulla chiin.

Hammer, to.

Tuckaun.

Hand,

Dosht, or chapal pain

Handful,

Emut.

Handle, a,

Mut.

Handsome,

Gadistah.

Happen,

Bun.

Happy,

Sail.

Hard,

Kukkdh.

Hare,

Soce.

Haste, to,

Suppkurrvvin.

Hatred,

Puchunnah.

Hawk,

Pagi, Wurna.

Head,

Shai.

Healthy,

Sarra Biiin.

Heap,

Kiit.

Hear, to,

Priinslah.

Heart,

Zi'i or Zudrusan.

Hearth,

Ivorah.

Heat,

Tuppi.

Heat, to,

Tuppiehun.

Heavy,

Galah.

Heel,

Kuttawa.

Heifer,

Asluinliih.

Heir,

Naislah.

Helpless,

Tiiigah.

[ HI ]

Hemp,

Henceforth,

Heuna,

Herbage,

Here,

Heretofore,

Hid, or Hidden,

Hide,

High,

Hill, a,

Hillock,

Hire, to,

Hire,

Hold, to,

Hole,

Home,

Honest,

Honey,

Hoof,

Hope,

Horn,

Horm^t,

Horse,

Horseman,

Hot,

House,

How,

However,

However many,

How long.

Humbug, to.

Humbugged,

Humility,

Hundred,

Hunger,

Husband,

Husk,

I.

1,
Ice,

Bompai.

Enareput.

Dojawaiin.

Eus.

Atteu.

Nusshlek.

Chiinah.

Cliiinawihun.

mniah.

Dah.

Duk.

Shantchun.

Shiint.

Dummun.

Dus.

Ammah.

Poramatrun.

Mechy.

Bakhiirah.

Batera.

Singh.

Bumah.

Goah.

Goah nishasta.

Tuppi.

A'unna.

K Unas tab.

Edadba.

Kus be chit.

Kuinosht.

Dotunchun.

Dotawin.

Dungorahbu.

Ponchwisi.

Uwutta.

Mach.

Liis.

Ye.

Shin or A'chama.

[ 142 ]

Identifj,

ZMn.

Idiot,

Beah.

Idle,

Jegalustah.

Ignominy,

Attaruh.

Ignorance,

Nassaillah.

III,

Namuchwah.

Illness,

Namuchabun.

Immediatelj,

Eneri.

Immersed,

Akkoi.

Implements,

Dumleh Kuttaf.

Impossibility,

Metanabiin.

Impression,

Bunduchiin.

Improper,

Utturrahken.

Inclined,

Wechun.

Inconvenienced,

Umlawi.

Increase,

Echui.

Increase, to.

Echuchun.

Indebted,

Denabosta.

Indioro,

Nil.

Indubitably,

Doven.

Industrious,

Koiedub chillah.

Infant,

Junna munna.

Inferior,

VVishtuk.

Infidel,

Sutterah.

Infirm,

Akilttah.

Inform, to,

Sudichiin.

Informed of,

Sudevvuni.

Inhabit, to,

Puttabun or TJttlbun

Inhabited,

Puttabusta.

Injure, to.

Malpussaun.

Ink,

Kachl

Innocent,

Ubburoh no kunstaii.

Inquire, to.

Kudaiin.

Insect,

Gowuk.

Insert, to.

Uttenchun.

Inside,

Uttraken.

Instance, for.

Sedat.

Instantaneously,

Enari.

Instead,

Wepuschi.

Instruct, to,

Pa<in.

[ 143 ]

Instrument,

Bunkiin.

lusulb,

Abruk Kurawi Emalli.

Intellectual,

Kushillah.

Intention,

Edat.

Interest,

Yean.

Interrogate, to.

Vindaun.

Interview,

"Wida.

Intestines,

Kauuka.

Intimidate, to,

Wedaiin.

Invent, to.

Surazdun.

Invert, to,

Asbiataun.

Invented,

Asbiah.

Investigate, to.

Puvencbua.

Invite, to.

Saicbiiu.

Involuntarily,

NabenuUah.

Iron,

Cbimarb.

Itch, to.

Kucbaiiu.

J.

Jackal,

Lawastra.

Jar,

Sba.

Jaundice,

Pucblalu.

Jaw,

Deatti.

Jest, a,

Miisb.

Jewels,

Pucbpah.

Jeweller, a,

LTwakurrab.

Join, to,

Eawchiin.

Joint,

Urrow.

Joke,

Mush.

Journey,

Wedesh.

Joyful,

Sbabii.

Judge,

Deal.

Jug,

Sbeah.

Juice,

Udii.

Jump, to,

Plpabun.

Joy,

Sbahteun.

K.

Keep, to,

Sumatun.

Kick,

Koteb wi zean.

Kid,

Prabuiah.

Kill, to,

Jiun.

Kind, (sort)
Kindness,
Kindle,
Kindled,
Kinsfolk,
Knee,
Knife,
Knock, to,
Knot, a,
Know, to.
Known,

L.
Labour,
Lad,
Ladder,
Lamb,
Lame,
Lamp,
Land,
Lane,
Language,
Lap,
Large,
Last,
Last,
Late,

Laugh, to.
Laughing,
Law,

Lay down.
Lead,
Leaf,
Leak, to,
Lean,
Leap, to.
Learn, to,
Learned,
Least,
Leather,
Leave, (of absence)

[ 14-1 ]

Kanastah.

Narchu,

Ean duttdn.

Ean Salah.

Tuttaburrah, or zawar.

Zuko.

Kuttai.

Kuttaiin.

Ooi'un.

Purrasun.
Sudi.

Kiiidum.

Dublah.

Tru.

Chullah.

Kiitah.

Luppa.

Bhiim.

Gdld.

Allah.

Dummun.

UUih.

Puttari.

Destaubun.

Cheraw.

Kunniinchun.

Kunnun.

Lachun.

Priist chiin.

Sik.

Piith.

Sasun.

Untukullah,

Pepalun.

Zamabun.

Kushullah.

Wastuk.

Guchf.

Muthiin.

[ 145 ]

Leave, to,

Left, (opposite to right)

Leisure, at,

Lend, to,

Length,

Leopard,

Lessen, to,

Lessen, a.

Level, to.

Level,

Liar, a.

Liberal,

Lick, to,

Lie, a.

Life,

Lift, to.

Lie down,

Li<^ht, (not dark)

Light, (not heavy)

Lightning,

Like,

Like, to, (approve)

Likewise,

Limbs, (of a man «fcc.)

Lime, a.

Lip,

Listen, to.

Little,

Living, (alive)

Load, a.

Load, to,

Loaf, a,

Loan,

Lodge, to,

Lofty,

Loins,

Long,

L ok out, to,

Loose, (not tight)
u

U'tawi.

Kowriah.

Puniir,

Arraiin.

Dunniprun.

Drigilla.

Junt.

Apeliikchun.

PuttC muttrdn.

Govalla e chiiu.

Govallah.

Dotunnah Manus.

Banu, or Prallah.

Suttiin.

Dotti.

Jiula bun.

LHchun.

Nurragun.

Weaus.

Ullullstah.

Popelus, Proboi, PuUak.

Sechit.

Poizaiin.

Urn.

Arroh.

Leh.

l/sht.

Pioustahun.

Wustiik.

Jaintah.

Bah.

Bahehun.

Eaw.

Dani.

Tawichiin.

TTtillah.

Dukka.

Drigullah.

Etakiin.

Geerelek.

[ 146 ]

Loosen, to, (set free)

Surrartn,

Loose, to,

Possawi.

Looser, a,

Dani.

Lost,

Pus.

Lot, (chance)

Onshai.

Love, to,

Pakdn.

Louse, a,

W6h.

Low,

17 win.

Lower, to.

Uwinchun.

Luggage,

Adicham.

M.

Mad,

Deal Mands.

Madness,

Deal.

Maid, a, (unmarried)

Dubbli.

Maize,

Borigum, or Tezazti.

Make, to.

Echiin.

Male, a, (opposite to

female)

Nasta.

Malice,

Puchunnah.

Manage,

Kuchiin.

Mane, (of a horse)

Kocha.

Man,

Manus or Nawista.

Manly,

Dubblahchu.

Mantle, a,

Shulliaimi.

Manure,

Pullall.

Many,

Echu.

Mark, (to shoot at)

Kan tah-u-kanli.

Marriage,

Lash.

Marry, to.

Lashchiin, Istri cluin

Mason, a,

Shuwulla.

Mat, a.

Pewvi.

Matter, (from a wound)

Agurrah.

Matter, a.

Melah.

Mean, (low)

Kukkurah.

Measure, to,

Talunchiin.

Meet, to.

Sumtiun.

Melon,

Kunkwnii

Melt, to.

Witaiin.

Memory, (to commit to)

Nachun.

Menace, to,

Widaun.

Mend,

Sirzaun.

[ 147 ]

Merchandize,
Mercy,
Mid-day,
Middle, the,
Middling,
Midnight,
Milk,
Milk, to,
Mill, a.
Mine, a,
Minute,
Mine,
Miser,
Mix, to.
Mixed,
Moist,
Money,
Monkey,
Month,
Moon, the,
Move,

Morning, the,
Morose,
Morrow,
Mother,
Move, to, V. n.
Move, to, V. a.
Mount, to.
Mountain,
Moustache,
Mouth,
Mouthful, a,
Mucli,
Mud,
Mule,
Musket,
Murderer, a,
Musquitoe,
N.
Nail, (of the hand)
u 2

TVepachu.

Purun.

Doburrah Gurrash.

Minean.

Tuk pa tuk.

Doburrah, Zheat.

Ziid.

Diin.

Doshoi.

Bh6mnar.

I shall.

Lipii.

Kukkurah Manns.

Mosharaun.

Moshawi.

Trifullah, or ushaia.

Urai, or Chelah.

Muku.

Mds.

Mas.

Oumnah.

Wuturik.

Lilabrd.

Jemeh.

Ai, or Hai.

Ahlun.

Ahaiin.

Neschiin.

Gucha.

Ash.

K^vva.

Echii.

Truplah.

Kuchar.

Tupuk.

Lichuttah.

Goesh.

Nochah, or Nuiicha.

[ 148 ]

Nail, a,
Naked,
Name,
Narrow,
Near,
Necessary,
Neck, the,
Needle,
Need,
Negligent,
Nephew,
Nest, (of a bird)
New,
News,
Next,
Nice,
Niece,
Night,
Nimble,
Nine,
Ninety,
No,
Noise,
No one,
Nose,
Nose, my,
Nostril,
Not, '

Nothing,
Now,

Now-a-days,
O.
Oath,
Obey, to,
Observe, to,
Obtain, to,
Obtainable,
Occur, to,

Of, (the sign of the genitive)
Oflf, (become)

Kocutcha.

Nechittah.

Nam.

Awauslah.

Turrentch.

Kunat ba kunat.

Murek.

Sakunch or chdnch,

Kunat.

Nabenullah.

Tultabrah.

Nealameh.

Nungah.

Sewdi.

Orungah.

Bostah.

Bragii.

Zheat.

Lowillah.

Non.

Charlawichi dush.

Nah.

Chu chah, or chah,

Ker.

Nasu.

Kas kera.

Natfgosh.

Nah.

Kussii.

Enari.

Enii.

Degariln.

Pateiin.

Waintosh,

Luttun.

Luttibeas.

Baiin.

Skd.

Edat.

[ 149 ]

Offspring,

Zaggah.

Oil,

Unnu.

Old,

Diggah.

Older, (senior)

Destd.

Omit, to,

Uttadn.

On, or upon,

l/epiin.

Once,

Epar.

Only,

Tup Tup.

Onset,

LTipulliin.

Open, to.

Siraun.

Openly,

Miika Muk.

Opinion,

Gir.

Original,

Nosht pren.

Other,

Oumpgah.

Overcome, to,

Uuacluiu.

Overset, to,

Arraraiiii.

Out, (abroad)

Birken.

Out, to come,

Biraken A cliun

Outcry,

Opof bu.

Outside,

Biramoken.

Owe, to,

Dun mi bun.

Own,

Tunnu.

Owner,

Emah.

P.

Pace, a,

Epah.

Pain,

Doas or Doala.

Pain,

Doatachun.

Paint, to,

Zuaun.

Painter, (of pictures)

Chitrawulkh.

Palm,

Doshp^iu,

Paper,

Dati.

Pardon, to,

Utaun.

Parrot, a,

Sirara.

Partner,

Sajah.

Pass, to,

Turrun.

Past,

Noshtari.

Pasture, to,

Churraun.

Path,

Piiut.

Pattern,

Zernah.

Pause, to,

Uteun.

[ ir.o ]

Pawn, to,

Bonataun.

Pay,

A'lla.

Peace,

Soli.

Peach,

Arii.

Peg,

Kakiicha.

Pendent,

Utamdwestah

Penetrate, to,

Pelworun.

Penitent, to be,

Tobaclmn.

People,

Echi Manu3.

Pepper,

Miivuc.

Perceive, to,

Paiin.

Perform, to.

Kun.

Perfume,

Giind.

Period, (of time)

Setun.

Perpendicular,

Otinistah.

Perplex, to,

Hiranbun,

Person,

E Manus.

Perspiration,

Udop.

Pewter,

Turup.

Piebald,

Chitturah.

Piece,

Tokunnah.

Pig,

Sur.

Pigeon,

Huri.

Pilgrimage,

Delan.

Pillage,

Villuchiin.

Pillow,

Bod.

Pin, a,

Kokhchu.

Pincers,

Slianach.

Pine, a, (tree)

Chow,

Pipe, a,

Tumuksuri.

Pay, to,

Paichun.

Place,

Taw.

Place, to.

Tdwiin.

Plaintiff,

Pussumurra.

Plank,

Kounah.

Plant, a,

Dovah, Wunni.

Plant,

Wunni datun.

Plaster, to.

Lipun.

Play, to, (sport)

Moshun.

Pleased,

Shahterrah.

[ 151 ]

Plain,

Plough,

Plough, to,

Plunder,

Point, a.

Poison,

Polish, to,

Pollute, to.

Ponder,

Poor,

Populous,

Porcupine,

Possession, of.

Possible, to be,

Post, to, (as a sentry)

Pond,

Pot, a,

Potsherd,

Potter, a.

Poverty,

Pour, to,

Pound, to.

Powder, (Gun)

Powder-horn,

Power,

Powerful,

Praise,

Praise, to,

Pray, to,

Prayer,

Precipice, a,

Precipitate, to,

Prefer,

Pregnant,

Prepare, to,

Present,

Presence, to,

Pretence,

Pretty,

Prevaricate, to,

Gululah.

Koch.

Kochun.

Villuchiin.

Sir or Shair.

Wish.

Makun.

Wirraiaiiu.

Bernun.

Dungorah.

Wurrushadesh.

Shpai.

Kunna.

Bun.

Utaun.

Dund or Xrza.

Kutli or Siri.

PuttuUa.

Mekurrah.

Dungiuihwok.

Chain Chun.

Wachiin.

ITshai.

Kisbut.

Edat.

Kaatadah.

Istakuun.

Istakauuchun.

Namaz chun.

Namaz.

Dukkah.

Unachiin.

Bostaziin.

GiUi.

Surazdson.

Aslah.

Ettachun.

Medii.

Gaidi.

Doi ken menchun.

[ 152 ]

Price,

Mul u bi.

Prick, to,

Sakunchwiun.

Pride,

Atsurpa.

Priest,

Deal or Deshtan.

Print, (of a foot)

Pa-pu.

Private,

Chiind.

Procurable,

Luttu.

Procure, to,

Luttiish or Luttiifhun.

Produce, (bring forth young)

Zai.

ProHt,

Maltaun.

Project,

Edat.

Promise, to,

A'llachun.

Proof,

Beniin.

Property,

Bankiin.

Prostrate,

Narungistah.

Protect, to.

Erechun.

Proud,

ItakuUah,

Prove, to,

Beniinchiin.

Pull, to,

Kasteiin.

Puncture, to,

Kakinchwaun.

Pungent,

CheluUah or cheluUistah

Purchase, to,

MulwechuQ.

Pure,

Kesherrah.

Purposely,

Uburrah Koi.

Pursue, to,

Puttuken sunni damun.

Push, to,

Dummakaiia.

Put, to.

Paun.

Put on, to,

Amichun,

Q.

Quarrel,

Such.

Quarter, a, (fractional part)

Chutta Mutta.

Question, to,

Kustiiun.

Quickly,

Sap or Duppadu.

Quilt, a.

Seph or Brastan.

Quit,

Tail litaun.

R.

Race, to,

Sunnaiin.

Rafter,

Luah, or Pruttachiit.

Rain,

W6sh.

[ 153 ]

Rain, to,

Raise, to,

Raisin, a,

Ram, a,

Rat,

Rate,

Ravage, to,

Ravine, a.

Raw,

Reach, to,

Read, to.

Ready,

Real,

Reap, to,

Reaping-hook,

Rear, to, (bring up)

Resembling,

Receive, to,

Recent,

Reckon, to.

Recline, to.

Recognize, to.

Recover, to,

Red,

Reflect, to,

Refresh, to,

Refuse, to.

Regret,

Rein, a.

Rejoice, to,

Relate, to,

Relation, a.

Relationship,

Release, to,

Reliance,

Remain, to,

Remaining,

Remember, to,

Remind,

Remove, to.

Washun.

TJtuUachun.

Estun Dras.

Gurosh.

Pussah.

Nirikh,

Nachiin.

Shukura.

Ammastah.

Prutchiin.

Pulti Mahiin.

Sarazistah.

Porai.

Lethchiin.

Choi.

SummatuD.

Sedat.

Wichuu.

Nungab,

Gurriin.

Nurungun.

ZurriiD.

Lutton.

Jhuttah.

Benun.

Westramichuu.

Lamuttriin.

Jelavv.

Uskurra.

Shingaruu.

Allahmuttrun.

JUUDU.

Junniibun.

Surraiin.

Bawarchun.

Wussiin.

Urratun.

Nachiin.

Naricb.

Suduchua.

[ 154 ]

Renowned,

Report, a, (as a gun)

Beproach, a,

Reprove, to,

Request, to,

Rest,

Retain, to,

Retaliation,

Retreat, to,

Return, to,

Revenue,

Reward, a.

Rheumatism,

Rise,

Rich,

Ride, to,

Rider, a.

Right hand,

Right, (proper)

Right,

Rind, a bark.

Ring, a,

Ripe,

River,

Road,

Roast, a,

Rob, to,

Robbery,

Rock, a,

Room, a.

Root, a,

Rope, a.

Round,

Ruin, to.

Ruined,

Run, to,

Rust,

S.
Sacrifice, to,
Sad,

Naragu.

Chah.

Istankiin.

Japuwi.

Muttrdn.

Aram.

TJrratun.

Ivurren.

Mukiin.

Puttumatiin.

Sham.

Buka.

Narillah.

Mai.

Erah.

Aguanechun.

Giiandah.

Muldush.

Char.

Emah.

Cham,

Ungusta.

Puchistah.

Gulmulla or Muddi.

Flint.

Upuloachark.

Kuttamucluin.

KuUamuch.

I/Uah drenh.

Umma.

Kd.

Kuturek or Utterek.

Tokunnah.

Masshun.
Masshistah.
Sunnun.
Nezah.

Deseaw.
Silan.

[ 155 ]

Safe conduct, a,

Safety,

Salt,

Saltpetre,

Sand,

Say, to.

Scales,

Scar, a,

Scatter,

Science,

Scissors,

Scorpion,

Scratch, to,

Scream, to,

Screen, to,

Scull,

Seal, a,

Search, to.

Second, (the)

Secret,

See, to.

Seed,

Seize, to.

Select, to,

Self-praise,

Sell, to.

Send, to.

Send for,

Senior,

Sense,

Separate,

Separate, to.

Servant, a.

Service,

Seven,

Seventeen,

Seventy,

Sew, to.

Shade,

Shadow,

■r <>

Prugustaiin.

Nultu.

Wuh.

Shov.

Shew.

Mala run.

Trukri.

Chagh.

Tataich,

Kushirial.

Kachi.

Toku or Hupu.

Koschaun.

Shahchiin.

Chunaun.

Shetullah.

Mohur.

Laiin.

Putiimb.

Chiin.

Wiutun.

Bi.

Dummun.

Botahzaiin.

Eh.

"Winshahiin.

Pureshun.

Chachun.

Peshtii.

Kushurial.

Mokullah.

MokuUaun.

Nokur.

Kiii.

Sont.

Sontdiis.

Trawisidiis.

Siun.

Achur.

Achur.

[ 156 ]

Shame,

Share,

Shark,

Sharpen,

Sheath,

Shepherd,

Sheep,

Shield, a,

Shine, to.

Shirt,

Shiver, to,

Shoe, a,

Shoemaker,

Shoot, to,

Shoot,

Shoulder,

Show, to.

Shout, to,

Shred, (of cloth)

Shut, to,

Sick,

Sickness,

Side, (direction)

Side, the.

Sight,

Silent,

Silly,

Silver,

Silversmith,

Sing, to,

Single,

Sister,

Sister-in-law,

Sit, to,

Six,

Sixteen,

Sixty,

Skilful,

Skin,

Skin, (for holding water)

Laj.

Mutta.

Loillah.

Loillachun.

Supah.

Pashka.

Wummi or rami.

Kerah or Karai.

PuUakun.

Kamiz, or natperan.

Didikaiin.

Vachai.

Chuwullah.
Topuk, or kan w{un.

Tawarasuk.
KumtuUa.

Waun.

Saiechun.

Epe truk chiel apech.

Pepsaun.

Namuchiabun.

Namuchiabun.

Ehen.

Ponakin.

Wiun.

Tupchist.

Beah.

Chitta or borai.

Uraikunah.

Alli'il muttiin.

Poken.

SUs.

Bea be Istri.

Nechun.

Sh{.

Sullaish.

Trewishi.

Kushilla.

Zuch, or cham.

Mokah.

[ 157 ]

Sky, the,

Slander,

Slanting,

Sleep, to,

Slender,

Slip, to,

Slipping,

Slowly,

Small,

Small-pox,

Smartly,

Smell,

Smell,

Snake, a,

Sneeze, to.

Snow,

Soft,

Soldier, a,

Some,

Somewhere,

Son,

Soon,

Sordid,

Sore, a,

Sorrow,

Sort, (what sort was it)

Sour,

Sow, to.

Space,

Spade, a.

Sparkle, to,

Sparrow,

Speaking,

Spear,

Specimen,

Spectacle,

Spectator,

Speech,

Spit, to,

Spit, to, (place on a spit)

Adilu, or Dillu.

Biita.

Uttillah.

Pnischiin.

Lamustah.

Siskaun.

Siskistah.

Achak Achak.

Wustiik.

Piiah.

Sap Sap.

Gun.

Giinechun.

Chumas,

French I'ln.

Zim.

Gejalek.

ITatta.

Moshi.

Akinizou.

Put or Dublah.

Asarbu.

Utcherak.

Doiis.

Chitan.

Kunas wimi.

Chuckurlusta.

Binachun.

Tau.

Chawdi.

PuUakiin.

Mingussa, or Minga chuku.

Melachias.

Shel.

Yevrah.

"Waun.

Wench uUah.

Muttriin,

Thoi chtin.

Lipaon.

[ 158 ]

Spite,

Urush.

Spontaneously,

Tunmi.

Spotted,

Tikartin.

Spring, the,

"Washtnuk.

Squeeze, to,

Chipallun.

Stage, a,

Ewas,

Stand, to.

U'tibun.

Standing,

Utirristah.

Star,

Tavrah.

Start, to.

Chuiin.

State,

Kunast.

Stay, to.

Puttabun.

Steal, to,

Kuttamuschiin.

Steep, a.

U'n.

Step-mother,

Punah.

Sterill,

Slsistah.

Stick, a.

Donek.

Stomach,

Kutch.

Stone, a,

Drenh.

Stool, a.

Neshain.

Stoop, to,

Saiiinachun.

Storm, a.

Echu Dummu.

Straight,

Golah.

Strange,

U'rungabah.

Stratagem,

Lah.

Strength,

Kaat.

Strict,

Kukka.

Strike,

Biiin.

String,

Siiturek.

Stumble, to.

Tingabiin.

Stump,

U'stum Kun.

Subdue,

l/nachmi.

Suck, to.

Zurprun.

Sufficient,

Bai.

Sugar,

Shakar.

Summer,

Vasant.

Summit,

Udda be Shai.

Sunrise,

Sui ba Nisstin.

Sunset,

Sui Neshun.

Sunshine,

Burbura gurrusb

[ 159 ]

Superior,
Supposition,
Surety,
Surround, to.
Survive, to.
Suspect, to,
Swallow, to,
Swear, to.
Sweep, to.
Sweet, to,
Swift,
Swell, to,
Swim, to.
Switch,
Sword, a,

T.
Tail,
Take, to.
Take away, to,
Take off, to.
Talk, to,
Tall,
Tame,
Tanner,
Target,
Taste, to.
Tear, to.
Tear, a.
Tease, to.
Teat, a,
Tell, to,
Tempest,
Temple, a,
Tent, a,
Terrify, to,
Terror,
Test, to,
Than,
That,
Thaw,

Deshtu.

Eua bon.

Purrah.

Urratun, or urrardn.

Durren.

Ubiiali wenun.

Turrailn.

DegaruD.

Shiniin.

Mourstah.

Sunnullah.

Upsiin.

Ean biin.

Lustawah.

Tarwali.

Domch.

ITichuu.

Goragun.

Bersaiiu,

Milaechun.

Dungulustah.

Zuuia bustah.

Shoellah.

K^ntdh.

Suttua.

Trokaun.

Trokanbcslash.

Tuppaiin.

Chiichu.

]\Juttrun.

Echii dummu.

Deahma.

Pochabama.

Widekaiin.

Wik.

Ettachun.

Tokunnuh.

Seh.

Wiliin.

[ 100 ]

Theft,

Then,

There,

Therefore,

Thigh, the,

Thin,

Third,

Thirsty,

Thorn, a,

Thorns, (bushes)

Thousand,

Thread,

Threaten, to,

Three,

Threshold,

Throat,

Through and through,

Thoroughbred,

Throw, to,

Throw away, to,

Throw down, to,

Thrust in,

Thumb,

Thunder,

Thus,

Tidings,

Tie, to.

Tiger, a.

Tight,

Tighten, to.

Till,

Till, to,

Time,

Time,

Tired,

To,

Tobacco,

To-day,

Toe,

To-morrow,

Kuttamus.

Situn.

Sitaii.

Ekakeaw,

Pakancha.

Degah.

Tream.

Awchit.

Kachlk.

Wah.

Hazar.

Suth.

Zullakaun.

Tre.

Durshahi.

Gurrunna and Murrik.

Wipaturrun.

Se^l.

Wiun.

l/nachun.

Naruugavin.

TJtturnashun.

Ulah ungu.

Trankyas.

Edah.

Slmdi.

GruutuD.

Si.

Ivukkah.

Kukkachun.

Setaunsht.

K^kiichachdn.

Ehpar.

Par.

Kasarem.

Setaunsht.

Tamakii.

Enu.

Kiira ba ungu.

Jamek.

[ K-'l ]

Tongue,

To-night,

Too,

Tooth,

Top, the,

Torch, a,

Touch, to,

'JVain, to,

Treacheiy,

Treacle,

Tree,

Trouble, to,

Trial,

Tribe,

Trouble,

True,

Try, to.

Tumble,

Turban,

Troop,

Turn back,

Twelve,

Twenty,

Twice,

Twist, to,

Two,

XJ.
Ugly,

Ulcer,

Unanimity,

Unawai'e,

Uncle,

Unclean,

Uncommon,

Undeceive, to.

Under,

Understand, to.

Undoubtedly,

Undress, to,

Unemployed,

Y

Jip.

Enu Awmza.

Urn.

Diint.

Sliai.

Luppah.

Diish dungauu.

Zamakurauu.

Lah.

Meclii.

Ushtdn.

Didaekaiin.

EttachuQ.

Duni.

Cliittan, or TingaUiiu.

Poron.

Ettacliiin.

Orcsurluu.

Pagrai.

Kalaki.

Pultari chiln.

Bash.

Washi.

Du'par.

A'lUiiiu.

Du'.

Uchurrah.

Nuswran.

Sunazuu.

Nasuddi.

Kench tantiilii.

JN'apureishlah.

Nahittu.

Pawiiu.

Un.

Paun.

Kanat be kanafc.

Chullapech bersaun.

Koiduu.

[ 163 ]

Unfortuniitp,

Ubrah Melultah.

Ungird, (the loins)

Dulvka Surraiin.

Unhappy,

Silanchullah.

Uninformed,

Nasuddi.

Unite, to,

Etaw chun.

Unless,

Ugur.

Unmarried, (bachelor)

Isti noaddah.

Unripe,

Napuchistah.

Unsheath, to,

Wishaun.

Until,

Kiltiusht.

Untrue,

Duttila.

Unveil, to,

Chadur Oshaiin.

Up,

Ui tean.

Upon,

Uipun.

Upright,

Uitenistah.

Useful,

Koi.

V.

Vacant,

Sun.

Vain,

Ubrah.

Valiant,

Simrustah.

Valley,

Shu.

Valuable,

Echii Mul.

Vanquish, to,

Unachun.

Vapour,

Diim.

Variegated,

Chitturrah.

Vegetable,

Kunkuru.

Vein, a,

Laishing,

Vengeance,

Kurran.

Venom,

Wesh.

Verdant,

PuUushah.

Vessel, a.

Dumli.

Vex, to,

Tubbaun.

Vexed,

Tubba, or Tengah

Victuals,

Euni.

Vigilant,

Bugislah.

Village,

Desh.

Villager,

Deslimilli.

Violence,

Kaat.

Violin,

Warij.

Virgin, a,

Dubli ilrti.

i

[ 163 ]

Voice,
Vomit, to,

W.
Wager, to,
Waist,
Waist, to.
Wake, to, v. n.
Waken, to, v. a.
Walk, a.
Walk, to,
Walking stick,
Wall, a,
Walnut, a,
Wander, to,
Want, to.
War,
Warm,
Warm, to.

Warn, (to admouisli)
Wash,
Watchful,
Water,
Water, to,
Water-course,
Water-melon,
Water-mill,
Water-pot,
Wave, a,
Wax,
Way,
Weak,
Wealthy,
Weapons,
Wear, to,
Weariness,
Water-wagtail,
Weave, to,
Weep, to.
Weeping,
Weigh, to,

Y 2

Chah.
LTi duttuu.

Bonahtadn.

Dukka.

Nashun.

Biigiia.

Biigaun.

Mashuu.

Chun.

l)ouek.

Barkant.

Zoun.

Kuttiin.

Sachun.

Such.

Tuppi.

Tu[)pauii.

Chusauu.

Muspek.

E16ch.

An.

Anprun.

Aknutah.

Hondvvana.

Doshai.

Kumruch.

Kiugir.

Puppak.

Puut.

Diggiih.

Maldah, or Erah Mauus.

Showash.

Ummachiin.

Hussarda.

Gadiilik.

Zenchun, or V/iiiiu.

LTnin.

Urassah.

Tulliiu.

[ 'G4 ]

Weight,

Well, a.

West,

"Wet,

Wheat,

When,

Whence,

Whenever,

Where,

Wherefore,

Whether,

Whet-stone, a.

Whirlpool, a,

While,

AV hither.

Who,

Whole,

Why.

Wide,

Width,

Widow,

Wife, a.

Wild,

Will,

Wind,

Wind, to, V. a.

Window,

Wine,

Wing, (of a bird)

Wink,

Window, to,

Winter,

Wipe, to,

Wisdom,

Wise,

Wish, to.

With,

Within,

Wither, to,

Withdraw,

Sul.

Awwi saiin.

Soi poi le ken.

Tripullah.

Glim.

Koi wai.

Akane ba.

Koi pa koi.

Akinawa.

Kasi kitti an.

Za.

Kirumwat.

Girum.

Kashirah.

Akinnii.

Ki.

Supperokeboi.

Kussah.

Witchti.

Witchtabiin.

Kukur.

Mewchi.

Uddatellah.

Chft.

Damti.

Tuptaiin.

Daii.

Chiikri (new), Pan (old.)

Dramul.

Atehiputuk.

Kotiin.

Zain.

Makiin.

Kushilla.

Paillah.

Wichtin.

Meli.

Uttaken.

Che chenbeon,

Bersadn.

[ 1^>5 ]

Witness,

Sakh.

Wolf, a,

DiUah.

Woman,

]Mu>hai.

Wonder,

Kurarat.

Wood,

Dew.

Wooden,

Dewbah.

Wool,

Wurruk.

Word, a,
Work,

Melah.
Koi.

World,

Dunya.

Worm,

Gowruk.

Worthy,

Sluip.

Wound, a,

Chup.

Wrap up.

Tuptiiiin.

Wretch,

Ubrah Merultah

Wring, to,

Siptaun.

Wrist, tlie,

Gorek.

Will,

Chittariin.

Y.

Tear, the.

Weh.

Yeast,

Dru.

Yellow,

Urrelah.

Y^es,

Ah.

Yesterday,

Di'is.

Yesterday, (the

1 day hefore)

Kutrcm.

Yesternight,

Awsiza.

Young, (of an

animal)

Wushtuk.

Younger, (junior)

Kcnslitii.

Youth, a,

Lut.

A few Sentences in this Language.

Has your illness abated ?
Where is your house ?
God is above,
He gave me much abuse,
He accounts me a friend,

Kaniachea apilok bii ?
Toba amah akenew wii ?
\Iti Dagon Wii.
Sika echu sukkun ch;iza.
Ede ema pullare zan.

[ 1C6 1

You would say that another sun was

produced above the sun.
Abstain from flesh,
Be not afraid of me,
After spring.
Agree to this proposal,
Is your father alive ?
Hast tliou come alone ?
It behoves you to go,
What is your name ?
Do you drink wine ?
In your country, do they dance ?
Is the road bad ?
Are there bears in Kaffiristan ?
How many towers are there ?

Eleshek sore kua urungah sore litilla

bera.
Unnah new.
Ekunna ha wedi.
Shure kua pulaken.
Eu mela boi.
Tviba tata ginlah wa ?
Tu poken ash ?
Tusa emella echun bostah.
Tti ba nam av ?
Chukri piash ?

Ema ba desh ukna nali chast ?
Punt abraiwa ?
Ema badesh akna berew wa ?
Kitti shuhr war ?

tri ma tawi shorn
l/i ma tawi drum
Andre shahr gigaien
Kuchun muttrungoba
Wellu wassii astan

Kaffir Song.

1

Gull lid i shad a*

Gulliidi .shtidir

Chud

Shall wisha

Shins: chiid ema ba.

Deh pruttum
Deh dosh pruttum
Ema loa woras
Asur shl nishi shaii
Ema zumuri san.

Slim punni

Slim puuni

Ema ba du sussumma bulchiid

Ba kru child ema ba

Shurik bulll na buUi.

Enar VVaie dublik
Suttrin dublik,
Ude deh gunush.

Emar suthin dublik
Charka dosht emalle ge
Assonkela add melawi.

[ 167 ]

Literal translation of the ahove.

I have won that which is fairei* than a " monal" pleasant

1 have won that wliich is fairer than a fairy

la the city is a tinkling of hangles

The nomades have been outstripped by me in wealth

As if there had been a clattering of horns at my door for years and days,

2

God has given me a lump of gold

God has given me in my hand a lump of gold

My steel gun !* there shall be constant sounds of joy at my door,

And when I am seated at a spring my head shall nod to the sound of my feet,

My places of pleasure are the envy of ray enemies.

3

I am loved by a Waie girl. I am loved by a Pathan girl,
Tlie Pathau girl at her wheel gave me a sign,
And at noon we embraced on the plain.

* A steel gun is the most valuable thing a Kaftlr knows of in this world. Tlic sound of
h'jrns in the last line of No. 1 is the sound of sheep or goat hoi'us striking together as they
play in a flock.

APPENDIX G.

Sjad Nur Muliamuiad on his way back from Tehran, considering it possibl^i
that a British force might be pushed in that direction via Kandahar, made
especial inquiries on the various routes ; especially with regard to supplies and
water for an army ; and I have taken advantage of these notes to detail the
following, irrespective of the great road by Mashad and Herat, by which
Kandahar may be approached ; as all these concentrate upon Farrah, perhaps
it will be most convenient to make it our starting point.

The routes from Farrah to Semmun and Naishapur, are given in Ferncr's
Caravan Journeys, and agree with the Syad's account.

From Farrah to Benjun.

Killa-i kah, ten parasangs. — A small Nurzaie encampment with plenty of
water.

Chah-i-dum. eight parasangs. — At about four miles from the last ground,
the Hara road has to be forded. Water of the encamping ground from springs,

Darogh, five parasangs. — This is a considerable place iu the midst of culti-
vation ; a strip of this sort of country, some two or three miles in depth, runs
along the whole way to Birgiin, parallel to the range on the cast forming the
water-shed line of the Hara road.

Sir-i-l>esha, four parasangs. — Has sixty houses, and water from wells.

Mut, four parasangs. — A fort on a mound, surrounded by a village ; water
from wells.

Birgun, four parasangs. — A considerable town of Khorasan.

From Birjun to Tun, is fifteen parasangs, or three short marches, over a
cultivated country covered with villages. Some years ago a Persian army
marched from Tiin to Tehran in seven days. Tun is a considerable place and
supplies are abundant, but the population are principally pastoral, possessing
large herds of camels and goats. Water from karezes.

From Tiin, roads strike off to Mashad, Tehran, and yezd ; to the latter
town the following is the route, and is known as the kah-i-kegi Shuturan ; it
runs along a partially cultivated country between a range of hills running
N. E. and S. W. and an immense desert stretching southwards towards
Khabbas and Kinnan ; the marches are —

[ 169 ]

Robali Shove, seven parasangs. — Just on the border of the desert, but has
plenty of water.

Bushruea, seven parasangs. — Water abundant,

Deh Muhamn)ad, ten parasangs. — 'Ibis place contains about one hundred
houses, and has a good supply of water.

Tubbus, ten parasangs, in the midst of a comparatively well cultivated
tract ; it contains about two or three thousand houses, and must not be
mistaken for the Tubbus Ghozan to the east of Birjun.

Turali, six parasangs. — Small place, water fi-oni wells.

Kulnaiz, eiglit parasangs. — Ditto, water from springs.

Hobat-i-Khan, fifteen parasangs, three of which are through heavy sand ;
this portion of the road is frequently unsafe owing to occasional predatory
visits from marauding Beluehis.

Pista Cadon, eiglit parasangs. — Water scarce.

Allahabad, five parasangs. — Tolerable place, water scarce.

Saghan, fourteen parasangs. — Here again there is cultivation, and water
from karezas ; but a large force would find water scarce.

Karamuk, six parasangs, water plentiful.

Anjira, six ditto ditto.

Yezd, six ditto. — Yezd is a great place for Par»{s, many of whom have come
from Bombay ; the city is larger than Kandahar.

From Kirinan to Yezd is seventy-one parasungs ; the country varies in
width from two to ten parasangs, and road runs along a valky between two
raiiii;es but crossiiifj several Kutlials.

From Kirman to Birjun, the encampments are almost all in places generally
occupied by Khorassani and Iraki herdsmen. The names of the marches are
as folluws : —

Khost, six parasangs.

Hamlin, six ditto.

Hullali, four ditto.

Baghalicha, four ditto.

Naibaud, sixteen ditto. — No water on this march. This is a walled town
with a good deal of cultivation about it, population mixed, Persian and
Belluchi ; country hilly, water plentiful from springs at base of hills.

Chilpya, twelve parasangs ; water only for one kafilah at a time.

Darband, eight ditto. — No water on the road.

Rohawa, eleven ditto. — This place contains five or six hundred houses in
the midst of groves of trees — water plentiful from karezas.

liohamat Abibad, ten parasangs ; water enough for one kafilah at a time.
z

[ 170 ]

Sri-i-Assiali, ten parasangs ; country cultivated, water plentiful and some
supplies.

Kirman, seven parasangs.

N. B. — The above is the only route by which water is procurable for any
thing like a body of men ; the otlier route to Kirman from Farrah via Sansh,
Jowain, Selim and Khubbus, you have to go thirty parasangs at a time
without water: JN'adir Shah attempted to dig wells along this line, but failed
to obtain water.

One more route remains from Farrah to Kirman, or rather from Siestan, and
which was the one traversed by the conquering force of the Ghilzies, who
under Tlir Weis, one hundred and thirty years before Nadir Shah marched
and captured Kirman by this route.

From Sekulia, in Seistan to —

Wurmul, four parasangs. — A small Beliichi village with plenty of brackish
water.

Sir-i-Shela, eight parasangs. — The Shela comes out of the Siestan lake but
only flows when the latter is full.

Gulabuk, six parasangs. — A spring on the neutral desert between Kirma-
mand Belfichistan.

Durwaza-i-Nadir.— Here is a plentiful supply of water but no village.

Giirg, sixteen parasangs ; over a barren hilly country.

Nurmasher, ten parasangs. — A tolerable city inhabited by Beluchis, who
are Shiahs, subjects of Persia ; they are forcibly converted.

Kirman, seven short marclies, each from four to five parasangs ; water
sufficient at each for a large katilah.

[ 171 ]

GENERAL AND MEDICAL REPORT OF THE KANDAHAR

MISSION.

The following matter is divide'l into three sections, viz. : —
1. — A brief description of the country traversed bv the Mission on its
march from Kohat to Kandahar.

IL — Some observations on Affghanistan and the AfFghans.
III. — Report of the Kandahar Dispensary.

A Brief Description op the Country betweex KcmAT a>-d Kaxdahar.

The country lying between Kohat and Kandahar, though of a mountainous
nature throughout, may, for convenience of description, be divided into an
eastern and a western portion, differing from each other in physical cliaracter-
istics, the high ground in the vicinity of Ghazni being taken as the watershed
line between tliem. The waters of the eastern division flow tliroufjh a country
abounding in small fertile valleys and well-wooded hills, and ultimately join
the great stream of the Indus, or l>y reason of the quantity drawn off for
purposes of cultivation, lose themselves in the soil. Those of the western
division on the other hand traverse a country characterized by low ranges of
bare rocky hills separating and bounding extensive sandy and gravelly plains
or steppes and flow into the Lake Hamun in Sistfin.

Eastern Division. — The eastern division extending from Kohat to Ghazni
comprizes the districts of Mirwdnzai, Kurram, Hanab, Haziirdaraklit, and
Logar. The general aspect of the country presents an intricate net work of
small valleys and dells, whose elevation above the sea increases as they approach
Hazardarakht, where they attain their highest, and which are separated from
each other by elevated plateaus or table lands, the summer pasture grounds of
several nouiade tribes.

The rock formation of the country' is the mountain limestone, presenting in
some places outcroppings of a friable grey slate, the strata of which are much
distorted, and overlaid at intervals by extensive formations of conglomerate,
which are sometimes found occupying the highest elevations.

The vegetation varies with the elevation above the sea, and is briefly noticed
in the following concise description of the several disti icts.
z 2

[ 172 ]

Mirivdnzai. — Mirwanzai presents a very irregular aspect. The lower division
consists of numerous small circumscribed and well cultivated valleys in which
the plane, poplar, willow, the fig, and the mulberry, together with the apple,
the apricot, and other orchard trees, flourish abundantly ; whilst on tlie other
hand the raviney wastes of the upper division are covered with a brushwood
of the wild olive, the wild privet, the jujube or "hair," mimosa, and other
thorny bushes, broken here and there by grassy tracts, the summer grazing
grounds of the Waziiis, who wander from one to the other with their families
and flocks. This tribe possesses a noted breed of horses, distinguished by a
peculiar twist and curve of the ears. Tlie breed is of medium height, wiry,
hai'd}', hiyh-tempered, and inclined to be vicious, and is said to have sprung
from stock orii^iiuilly brought from Persia by Nadir Shall. Their acquisition
by the Waziiis is attributed by some accounts to their dexterity in thieving
whilst others ascribe it to the liberality of Nadir, who dispersed his gifts with
a free hand during his march into Hindustan.

The dwarf palm, a variety of chamcerops called by the natives " mazari,"
abounds all over " Mirwanzai," and is applied to a variety of useful purposes
by the inhabitants, Hand-punkhas and mats are plaited from the leaf cut
into strips : the fibres of the leaf and its stalk, separated from each other and
their parenchyma by maceration and braising in water, are twisted into cords
and ropes. The former are used for making baggage nets, the " trangar" of
the natives, the net-work of " charpaies," &c., and the latter for fixing the
apparatus of their Persian wheels, &c. Sandals "chapta" universally worn by
these Highlanders, and admii-ably adapted for walking over rocky ground, are
made from the strong fibres of the leaf stalk. In the axil of the sheathing
petiole, a fine downy wool is found, this is used by the natives as tinder, and
they assert that when prepared by steeping in the sap of the mulberry tree
and dried, it never fails to burn throughout. The white embryo leaves in the
centre of the leaf bud have a sweet astringent taste and are often used as a
remedy for diarrhoea, &c. When the young leaves begin to be developed they
lose their sweet taste and become sour and astringent, and are then used as a
purgative, chiefly, however, for horses and cattle.

The wealth of the inhabitants of Mirwanzai consists principally of cattle,
goats and slieep, of these the cows are a lean and dwarf breed and produce
but little milk. The soil which is for the most part gravelly, with only a
scanty deposit of alluvium, is not much cultivated, owing to constant feuds
among the inhabitants, who are " Bangashes" or " Bangakhs," as well as the
scarcity of water. Since it has been under the British rule, however, a much larger
portion of land has been brought under the plough than previously, a pleasing
instance of the confidence inspired by a just and protecting Government. A

[ 173 ]

considerable portion of the cultivation is " lallam" that is dependent on
the rains for irrigation. That which is " a&i" or regularly irrigated by
artificial means, is watered by streams issuing from springs, or from tanks of
rain-water in the neighbourhood. Wheat, barley, and pulse (" masur^') are
gathered in the spring harvest, and millet, madge, pulse ("" mong'^) and cotton
in the autumn harvest. The cotton is said to be of inferior quality, yielding
i fibre to f seeds, whilst that grown in Peshawar yields \ fibre to f seeds.
From the same plant, however, three and sometimes four crops are realized^
In the spring the dry and apparently dead plants of the preceding year, are
cut down close to the ground, which is then plouglied and freely watered.
The plants sprout in due time and produce, it is said, a better crop each
succeeding season under similar treatment, until the fourth year, after which
they perish. A principal occupation of the inhabitants and a source of wealth
is the manufacture of turbans (''lungi"). These are largt ly produced through-
out Miruanzai, but especially in Hangu which vies with Peshawar in the
quality of its manufacture.

The mission started from Peshawar on the 13th Marcli, 1S57, and leaving
Kohat on the 15th, entered the Mirwanzai country and marching through it
arrived at Thai on the river Kurram, its boundary on the west, on the 20th
March. At this season of the year the climate of JMirwanzai is cool and
pleasant. The bracing morning air, the beautiful scenery of green valleys
and well wooded hills in Lower Mirwanzai with a distant view between them of
a bleak brown-backed moor in the upper division of tlie district brought to
mind the scenery of the south-west of England. The average of six days'
temperature, from the 15th to the 20th March inclusive was 4 A. M. 51 F. ;
1 P. M. sun 108; tent 80; 8 P. M. 67 F. The months of July, August,
September and a part of October are described by the natives as very
hot and unhealthy, and it is not uncommon at this season for whole villages
to be at once prostrated with fever. In the natural formation of the
country — small valleys shut in on all sides by hills which, by obstructing the
free circulation of winds, and by reflecting the solar rays add greatly to the
intensity of the heat, and thus facilitate the liberation without the dissipation
by winds of the obnoxious gasses given off from decaying animal anc^ vegetable
remains, — and the filthy dwellings and dirty habits of the peo[)le, a sulK-
cicnt cause for disease will be found. Intennittents are common throusrh-
out the year though they prevail in the autumn and are remarkable for the
frequency of the tertian form. Impetiginous afi'ections of the scalp and
allied skin diseases appeared to be very common amongst the villagers, who
did not impress me as being a very healthy or robust race.

Kurram. — On the 21st March the mission having been joined at Thai by

[ 174 ]

the Affghan escort, consisting of some companies of a regular Affghan regi-
ment dressed in the ragged cast-off clothing of our Indian army, and a posse
of wild looking sowars habited in a variety of Affghan dresses, armed with
almost every kind of weapon from a lance to a blunderbuss and mounted on
wiry shaggy little horses that had as wild a look as their riders, we forded the
river Kurram a little way above the village of Thai and entered the district of
Kurram.

Winding for about eighteen miles by a difficult path over a wilderness of
irregular stony hills presenting here and there outcroppings of micaceous
slate and without a sign of habitation or animal life, whilst the vegetable
kingdom was but sparely represented by a few hardy mimosse, jujube, and
other thorny bushes, we again reached the river and marching henceforward
along its course, fording it several times " en routt?" encamped at the village of
Habib Kila, near Paiwar on the 28th March. The distance is about sixty
miles from Thai and the country rises all the way. Tlie scenery here is gi'and
indeed. Ever hoary " *Spm ^7mr" looks down in grave majesty on the rich
fields and pleasant orchards stretched at his feet and cleft by the noisy
bubbling Kurram, whose waters are as clear and crystal as the snows from
which they proceed. " Spin ffhar^' or " Sufed koJi' (white mountain in Pukh-
stau and Persian respectively) stretching east and west, separates the valley
of Kurram from that of Jelalabad. Its southern face presents three distinct
ranges rising one above the other, separated by narrow elevated valleys and
up to the snow itself on the highest range is thickly clothed with forests of
mao'nificent pines, cedars, the arbor vitse, the walnut, the wild almond, and, lower
down, oaks and ash trees, &c. At different spots in the openings of the forests
are rich grassy slopes, watered by numerous springs, the neighbourhood of
which abounds in several genera of the ranunculus and composite orders and
wliich afford pasture to the herds of mountain deer, wild goats and ibex, which
with hears, leopards and wolves, are the principal wild inhabitants of this
mountain.

Kurram is well cultivated and contains a large number of villages in close
propinquity along the course of its river. Each is enclosed by a square mud
wall with a»to\ver at two of the diagonal angles, flanking the sides. The gate
is in the centre of one side and usually the top of the wall all round is armed
with a " cheveux de frize'' of thorn bushes as a protection against robbers
at night.

Rice is the principal crop raised in this district, tliough wheat, cotton, and
barley, &c. are also cultivated. The grain is generally stored in caves, the
apertures of which are then built up, and being always in the sides of small
conglomerate hillocks on which the villages are built or in their immediate

[ 175 ]

viciiiitv, are easily defended. Water is abundant every where (except at tlie
base of Sufed-koh which is occupied by a stony and uncultivated plateau
some twenty miles hj five), and irrigation is rendered facile by the water of
the river and that of the numerous streams flowing from the adjacent moun-
tains towards it, being led ofi" in watercourses in all directions and at various
heights.

Many of the villages in Kurram are ornamented by stately " cliinaor" or
plane trees of great height and beauty. A few miles east of the Kurram
Fort, (the head quarters of Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan, Governor of Kurram
and Khost) is an extensive grove of fine old mulberry trees said to have been
planted by order of the Emperor Shah Jehan, who laid out a pleasure garden
at this spot and called it " Faiz JSagh." The name and these weatherworn
old " tuts" are all that now remain of the once charming and beautiful garden,
whose former terraces and parterres have long since been obliterated in rice
Bwamps.

The climate of Kurram at this season is very bracing and agreeable. For
a month or six weeks m midwinter, the weather is described as very severe,
owing to the elevation of the valley above the sea (about feet, accord-

ing to Prinsep's tables, at the Kurram Fort, water boiling here at F.
with the temperature of the atmosphere at F) and its proximity to the
snowy range, but on the other hand the hot months are tempered by cool and
refreshing breezes from that region. The average of seven days' temperature
from the 22nd to the 2Sth March inclusive was at 5 A. M. 5J; 20 F. 1 P. M
sun 98.20. tent 75. 8 p. m. 58.30 F. On the return of the mission later in the
season, the average of six days' temperature, from the 11th to the 16th of June
inclusive was at 3 A. M. 63 F. 1 p. m. sun 118. tent 65.15 8 P. M. 73 F.

The chief tribes inhabiting Kurram are the " Turi'* and *' Zimukht," gener-
ally speaking a healthy and hai-dy peuple. Though at every encamping
gi'ound my tent was surrounded by a motley crowd of men, women and children,
eager ap[)licants for medicine, which they swallowed with undisguised avidity
and many sneaked into my tent a second time in hopes of not being recognized
and getting a second dose. Fever of the intermittent type with its ordinary
sequelae, more particularly enlarged spleen — and in some cases it was enormously
so, — was the prevailing form of disease. Fevers are said to be most prevalent
during the months of July, August, and September, the season during which
the rice harvest is gathered. They commence with the quotidian form and
soon changing to the tertian, cling to the patient for two or more years, ulti-
mately completely destroying his health by the derangement ensuing to the
abdominal viscera, the liver and spleen. Thoracic aEfections also appeared
common, a few cases examined with the stethoscope revealed much organic

[ 176 ]

derangement, attributable, however, more to previous acute attacks of inflamma-
tion on the lungs and its membranes than to tubercular phthisis.

The dress of the Turi consists of a red conical skull cap about six inches
high, loose trovFsers of coarse cotton, gathered in and fastened close for about
four inches above the ankle, and a loose shirt of coarse cotton sometimes dyed
blue. In the winter a large sheepskin cloak reaching from head to foot is
vvorn in addition, tlie wool being turned inwards except in exposure to rain
when it is reversed. And sometimes a turban or " lungi'^ in which blue, red
and yellow are conspicuous colours, is worn round the head.

The " Tiiris" never move out without being armed to the teeth : most carry
the Affghan knife and jazail. Tor every Tiiri labouring in the field there are
usually three or four keeping a sharp look out to prevent surprise by an enemy.
We frequently passed small bands of men returning from the fields, all of whom
were armed with offensive weapons whilst but one or two carried the imple-
ments of industry. This tribe observe a curious custom among tliemselves
indicative of the wild and contentious life they lead. On the advent of a
young " Tiiri" into the world, he is at once taken from his mother and passed
several times through a hole in the wall of the house, whilst a salute of nine
shots is fired over him in order to accustom him from birth to a sound he is
destined to hear constantly through life without flinching. The unconscious
infant is at the same time exhorted to follow in the steps of his father and with
heart and hand to be a thief. The Turis being "_^Mas" are naturally the
hereditary enemies of their " Sunni" neighbours the " Jdc[is" with whom as
well as amongst themselves, they are eternally at enmity and petty warfare.

Haryhh. — Our direct route by the Paiwar Kotal having been barricaded
with rocks and felled trees by the hostile Jagis to oppose our progress, tlie
mission made a detour to the north and ascended the " Spin Gaice''' (white
cow) Kotal on the 29th March, it having been previously taken possession of
by the infantry and some mountain guns of our Affghan escort. This Kotal
is a few miles north of the Pewar pass though on the same spur of the Sufed
Koh, and which rising about 1000 feet above the valley runs north and south
and separates the district of Kurraui from that of Haryab. The ascent was
by a steep stony path (easier, however, tlian the Paiwar, by which route the
mission returned) covered at intervals with patches of frozen snow on which
our horses' hoofs left no impression, and wound through a labyrinth of splendid
pines, cedars (cedrus deodara) and oaks, among which the Arbor Vitae (Thuja
orientaUs) was thickly scattered, whilst the descent by the equally steep and
more stony bed of the Haryab, a rapid little mountain-torrent a tributary of
the Kurram, led us through an Alpine country to our camp at AUikhsl a large
and scattered village about 18 miles from Paiwar. The villages passed during

[ 177 ]

this marcli are of peculiar construction, seldom containing more than four or five
houses, usually situated on commanding eminences or in retired little glens.
Those in the latter situation are provided with a detached tower of observation,
in some instances supported on poles of pine wood and ascended by a ladder.
Each house is detached, and forms a little fort of itself. The thick walls of
stone and mud are pierced by numerous holes that serve the threefold pur-
poses of ventilators, chimneys and loop-holes for firing through. The strong
wooden door occupies the centre of one side, whilst the flat roof communicates
by a trap door and ladder (formed of the trunk of a tree, notched so as to
form steps when the wood is fixed in a slanting position) with the interior, an
open space sunk below the level of the ground and with galleries all round
that shelter the family as well as their cattle, consisting of a few cows, goats,
and horses, together with stores of grain, fodder and fuel, the Jagis beino-
accustomed to be constantly beseiged either by the snow or by enemies.

At Alikhel we bad an opportunity of observing how the Jagis prepare them-
selves for the fight, without however fighting. During the march we were
passed by several bands of men armed with Aflghan knives, jazail, &c. who,
as they passed us, indulged in many menacing actions and afterwards collected
round our camp to upwards of a thousand men and till CTening treated us to a
variety of hostile demonstrations, and with jeering yells, war-songs and dances
accompanied by the native fife and drum (the former has much the sound of
the Scotch bagpipe) worked themselves up to a degree of excitement barely
restrainable. Tlie heights around camp were crowned by large bands of Jsl^is
(from 200 to 300 men in each) who, stamping round and round in a circle, o-esti-
culated and flourished their great knives in harmony with the pathos of
some exciting war-song, at the conclusion of which, giving a shrill and pro-
longed yell that reverberated from hill to hill, they ranged themselves in a
column two or three abreast and proceeded slowly round our camp chauntino-
an impressive and passionate war-song varied at regular intervals by a chorus
" look lioh ah hah'' repeated in different keys by several voices in a peculiar
hollow bass tone. At the last syllable of the chorus, each man sprung up on
one leg and flourished his knife overhead, skipped a step forwards, whilst the
numerous powder-flasks and other paraphernalia of his jazail suspended
around his waist, dangling in the air, and his long loose hair blown about in
confusion, added greater wildness to his features and actions. In the evenin""
the crowds dispersed and left us on the look out for a night attack, which did
not however occur.

At Alikhel water boils at 198 F. with the temperature of the air at IS F.
This, according to Prinsep's tables, gives an approximate elevation above thy
sea of about 750j feet.

2 A

[ 178 ]

At daylight on tlio SOtli March we struck camp amidst the yelllug and
howling of largely increased bands of Jagis who indulged in similar demonstra-
tions to those of 3'esterday. After a delay of some four hours caused by the
road two miles ahead of us being closed by a body of several thousands of Jagis
(the whole tribe having united under the banner of an " Akhunzsida" of the
" GJidmuiiMeV clan) we advanced, an arrangement having been sworn to on
the Kuran, between the commandant of our Affghan escort and the leader of
the Jagis that we should proceed in peace. Our road traversed a rugged
country of a coarse gravelly soil, and cut up by numerous deep and wide
ravines and led through several detached hamlets crowded with armed Jagis
(who remained perfectly quiet in observance of their oath) and at the sixth
mile brought us to the village of Eokyan near which we encamped.

Rokyan is a good sized village consisting of many scattered houses sur-
rounded by a few fruit trees and corn fields ; the former were already in blossom,
and the latter well advanced with their spring crops of wheat, &c. The main
portion of Kokyiiu is situated at the entrance of the Haziirdarakht defile and
is overhung by the abrupt shoulder of a towering rocky spur of the Sufed
Koh. Honey is produced here in abundance, almost every house possessing
its bee-hives.

Bronchocele is not an uncommon disease in this district, and it is said to be
equally prevalent in the valley of Jalalabad on the opposite side of the Sufed
Koh. I observed several cases of this disease during the day and in Eokyan
alone three cases applied to me for relief, among a crowd of other applicants
for medicines, &e. who surrounded my tent the greater part of the day, and
amongst the number very many who in the morning all bristling with arms,
had opposed our progress. All in real need of medicine were supplied without
distinction, provided they applied for it unarmed and in a proper manner. The
Jagis are a lean hardy and healthy race, though at first the sight of their oily
and smoked skins, caused by their constant contact with the smoke of pine
wood, their only fuel, tends to disparage the idea, but the great number of
hale grey beai-ds or rather smoked beards met with, fully supports the
character for healthfulness assigned to the climate of this district by its
inhabitants. This tribe though subjects of the Cabul government, lead a
wild and partially independent life. They are desperate robbers and cultivate
only sufficient ground to supply their wants. Rice and corn are their chief
crops. They are not reckoned a brave race, nor are they feared by their
neighbours the Gilzais, who often make a raid into the country and carry off
all the women and cattle, they can lay hands on and chop up the men.

HazdrdaraTclit. — March 31st from Eokyan to Hazar or JNeba-Margha, a
Ghilzai thauuah situated on an elevated table laud occupying the summit of

[ 1"9 ]

one of the main spurs of the Sufed Koh. Tsventj miles ; our road for the
first sixteen miles ascended through the narrow winding defile of Hazardarakht
so named from a small forest of pines, cedars and the arbor vita? occupying
its centre. Near this spot is a small thannah that marks the limit between
the Jagis and Ghilzais. The heights bounding the deflle on either side are
formed mainly of limestone, much broken on the surface and presenting, here
and there, outcroppings of soft grey slate in vertical and distorted strata.
Except where the defile branches off in little glens that winding northward
between the hills convey their drainage into the maiu channel, the opposite
heights are nowhere more than six hundred, nor less than eighty yards apart,
whilst their steep, and in many places perpendicular sides are thickly covered
to the very bottom, with pines, cedars, the arbor vitae and a few oaks, and on
the return journey of the mission, about ten weeks later in the season, yellow,
white and pink dog roses, the dwarf laburnum and a variety of umbelliferous
and labrite plants variegated the hill-sides with their many-colored flowers.
The interval between, forms the stony bed of a mountain torrent, at this date
but of small calibre ; the raging violence of its stream at certain seasons,
however, is indicated by tlie great fragments of rocks and the enormous
uprooted trees that strew its surface. Near the end of the defile we ascended
the short but steep Surkhai Kotal so named from the red colour of its soil, and
by a gradual descent emerged on the tableland of H:izar. This plateau is
buried under snow for about half the year, although at this season only a few
detached snow fields conceal the summer grazing grounds of the Ghilzais,
who collect here in large numbers with their families and flocks during the
spring and summer months from April to August, for the sake of the pasture,
a short sweet grass and a stunted growth of Artemisia, both of which are
grazed indiscriminately. The numerous grave-yards scattered over the plain
indicate considerable mortality amongst the visitors of this bleak and dreary
region. Each grave yard is enclosed within a low wall of loose stones whilst
poles fixed upright within them and ornamented with pendent ibex and wild
goat's horns and coloured rags point out their position on the extensive level.
At this season the snowy heights around Hazar present but a scanty growth
of vegetation. A few arbor vitae and juniper shrubs, scattered here and there
just suffice to deprive them of a totally barren aspect. And except a stunted
growth of absinth, thistles, orchids and lilies, readily eaten by hungry cattle
and horses, there is no forage for man and beast for twenty or thirty miles
around. The young and succulent leaves of the orchis and lily were cooked
and eaten as pot herbs by our camp followers.

At Hazar water boils at 195 F. with the temperature of the air at 55 F.
Approximate elevation above the sea abuut 93S2 feet, this is according to
Prinscp's tables.

[ 180 ]

April 1st, sir lick camp nt 5 a. m. at which hour the thermometer stood at
26 F. in the open air. The night was searchingly cold and four of the horses
of our party died from its effects during the night. Water brought from a
neighbouring spring froze at once on being poured into a metal basin. At
5.30 A. M. proceeded on our march and by a gradual rise of three miles
ascended the Shutur-gardan (camel's neck) a term applied generally to any
easy ascent, whilst Kotal signifies a steep and difficult one. The height of
Shutur-gardan Kotal is about 1000 feet above the valley of Hazar and the
height of the surrounding peaks is about 800 feet still higher. This peak on
the return journey of the mission on the 8th June was dotted here and there
with patches of snow. At this date also in the adjoining Hazar valley the
thermometer stood at 30 F. at 4* A. M. From the summit of Shutur-gardan
we obtained a grand view of the wildly precipitous mountains around, already
fast parting with their snowy covering and exposing their nearly entire naked-
ness of vegetation. Far away to the north, Hindu Kush sparkled in the
morning sun : in the distant west the confused and tangled ranges of the
Hazarah mountains spread their snowy network ; and to the south of these in
pleasing contrast shone the green valley of Logar, whilst immediately below
us and at a depth of some fourteen hundred feet wound a narrow tortuous
gorge through which our road passed and into which we descended by a
difficult zigzag path in the almost perpendicular side of the mountain. This
little valley is constructed in its centre by the approximation of the opposite
limestone rocks, forming a natural gateway, the sides of which ascend abruptly
to a height of about one hundred feet whilst the passage is about as many
long with a width of less than thirty feet. Some wretched looking hamlets
were scattered here and there in sheltered nooks that also afforded protection
to a few apple and apricot trees. The inhabitants are Ghilzais who cultivate
only small patches of unfertile soil, subsist on the produce of their flocks and
are occupied for the most part in pillage and I'obbery. The valley is traversed
by several sparkling little rills through which shine with increased colour the
variegated lines of hornblende, porphyry and syenite, fragments of which strew
the surface everywhere.

We quitted the valley by a low but steep Kotal of mica schist. The
surface here also was strewed with blocks and lumps of hornblende and syenite,
the latter in a variety of shades from yellowish green to greenish brown, of
vitreous lusture and fracture. In some places the slopes of the hills were
covered with powdered mica, that much resembled wood ashes, but the glitter-
ing of its scaly particles in the sun at once showed its identity.

Descending the Kotal and traversing an extensive " dtimaii" or skirt of the
mountain we encamped at " Khushi" about 18 miles from Hazar. Khushi as

[ isi ]

its name implies is a Heaven of delights to the wayworn traveller, who
reaches it after traversing the bleak and inhospitable regions of Haiyab and
Hazardarakbt.

The village is embosomed in extensive orchards and meadows that occupy
the bed of a wide ravine opening on the Logar plain, and which, at this season
in the bloom of spring, render the place doubly deserving of its name. Kative
provisions of all sorts both for man and beast are to be obtained here in
abiuulance. The principal trade of the place is in preserved apricots and
madder, though wheat, barley, clover, lucerne, &c. are also extensively cul-
tivated. At Khiishi water boils at 198.10 F. with the temperature of the
air at G3 F. Approximate elevation above the sea 7829 feet.

From Pewar to Khushi is a distance of about GO miles by the ordinary
route, crossed in every direction by spurs and ridges of the Sufed Koh, which
are for several months in the year, covered with snow and in many parts pre-
sent obstacles that are with difficulty overcome by laden animals. The glens
and valleys are inhabited by hardy robber tribes, the Jiigis and the Ghilzais.
The climate of this region though described by its inhabitants as a paradise
during the spring and summer months is for a considerable portion of the
year extremely rigorous and grain and other necessaries of life are raised only
in quantity sufficient for the scant wants of its wild and savage inhabitants.
The average of 5 days' temperature from the 29th March to the 2nd April
inclusive was 5 A. 3i. 39 F. ; 1 P. m. sun 93.20 tent 09.0 ; 8 r. M. 50.15 F.

Logar. — On the 3rd April after a day's halt at Khushi the mission proceeded
through Logar along its quiet stream, crossing it several times by native
rustic bridges, though at this season of the year this portion of the river is
fordable every where and at an average depth of two feet has a firm pebbly
bottom. Logar is an extensive open valley or plain of a shingly, and for the
most part uncultivated, soil. A strip, three or four miles across along the
course of the river however, is well cultivated and densely populated. The
villages are situated close to one another and each is enclosed by thick long
walls of a square form built of a hard and tenacious clay and flanked towers
at tbe angles. The inhabitants are of several different tribes and consequently
eternally at enmity with each other. The chief tribes here are the Wardak,
Tiijik, Ghilzai, Kuzzllbash and Muhammad. Their chief occupation is agri-
culture. Every patch of ground that can be supplied with water is brought
under cultivation and the soil near the river all along its course is a succes-
sion of green fields and poplar and willow copses, the freshness and brightness
of whose hues called to mind the meadows of England. Wheat, barley, rice,
Indian corn, pulses, beans, carrots, turnips, cabbage, mustard, clover, lucerne,
&c. are produced here in great abundance, and the three first are supplied to
Cabul in considerable quantity.

[ 182 ]

The cultivation of rice as practised here is a much less unhealthy occupation
tlian as practised in Bengal and other parts of this country as in Kurram and
Lughmant, &c. In the former instance the seed is sown broadcast, C" par-
haVC) whilst in the latter the young rice is transplanted in the ordinary
method, C'' nilidUr) The following is the method pursued in Logar. Soon
after the winter snows have disappeared from the fields, the ground is ploughed
several times in every direction and exposed to the influence of the atmos-
phere for a period of three weeks more or less. About a week before the
ground will be ready for the reception of the seeds, the latter placed in a
large earthen vessel or hole in hard ground, they are then well moistened with
water and covered over with a heap of filth, skins, &c, in order to keep in the
heat generated and to favour germination. At the end of this time the seeds
having sent forth numerous slender radicles an inch or more long and a well
developed plumule, are taken out and at once sown broadcast over the fields
which have been flooded three or four days previously and in wliich sticks have
been fixed at regular distances as guides to the sower to new ground.

This process over, the irregularities of the ploughed earth are levelled by a
sort of rake termed '^ glialclilchov'''' dragged by a couple of men, and con-
trolled by a man following behind. The " gliaklihlior'''' is formed of a short
and stout beam, about three feet in length through each extremity of which
passes an upright post about two and a half feet in height. These are con-
nected by a cross piece above, parallel with the beam below. The beam itself
is pierced by a row of holes at intervals of three or four inches into which aro
fixed wooden teeth that project downwards about six inches, the terminal
teeth being formed by the projection downwards of the upright posts. The
implement is yoked by three ropes, one fixed on each side to the upright imme-
diately above and below tlie beam and the third loosely to the centre of the
upper cross piece by which the labourer steadies and depresses the machine
whilst by slakening or tightening this rope, he renders the teeth inclined or
perpendicular according as the inequalities of the ground are slight or great.
After this a constant supply of water is all that is required till the crop be ready
for the sickle about four or five months after sowing.

A kind of leek called by the natives '■'■ gandanna''' is largely cultivated in
Logar and Cabul. The plant is not allowed to flower as a rule, but its
young fresh leaves are used as a pot herb ; from the plants two or three crops
comnaonly are obtained annually for a long series of years. At Cabul is a
field of ^^ gandanna" said to have been sown in the time of Nadir Shah !

There are no fruit gardens or orchards in Logar, but a few vineyards are
met with. The produce of these both in the fresh state packed in cotton and
as raisins arc articles of export.

[ 1S3 ]

Poplars and willows are grown in plantations along the course of the river
and watcr-courses, for their timber which is fit for use in the 8th or 10th
year, and is used in the construction of houses and the manufacture of thin
boxes or drums in which the fresh grapes are packed for exportation.

Whilst marching through Logar, quantities of rhubarb were daily brought
into camp for sale. There are two kinds, viz. bleached and unbleached, called
respectively " raicusV and " cliakriy Both sorts are largely consumed by
the natives both raw and cooked. In the latter form, it is a favorite relish
added to meat dishes. Both kinds are dried in the shade and so preserved
for use when the fresh stock is out of season. The plants are never cultivated,
but grow wild in the mountains around and especially in the Highlands of
Cabul. The leaf stalks are gathered where they grow, and are brought down
to the plains for sale by the hill people near whose abodes it grows, the
" raicdsh'' has a very delicate flavour, produced by covering the young loaves
just as they sprout from the soil with a loose heap of stones or an empty
earthen jar. The roots are sometimes dug up and sold to drug vendors by
whom they are used for adulterating the China root, and in outward appearance
they much resemble that produced in England for a similar purpose.

Quitting Logar by the Tangi Wardak pass we ascended to the high road
between Cabul and Ghazni near the village of Shekh-abad on the Gth April
and encamped at Ghazni on the 8th. At this season this elevated tract has
a barren aspect and bleak climate, and the country still clothed in its winter
garb presents a striking contrast to the green plain of Logar, now in the full
bloom of spring. The hills around are bare and rocky, but their slopes afford
a good pasture to the oxen and sheep of the Wardaks. The soil is stony and
gravelly, and at this date variegated with scarlet and yellow tulips, blue
Hags, orchids and many other common English flowers. These, howevei-, and
a few poplars and willows on the " Shinas," an insignificant stream that joins
that of Logar, together with the half dozen fruit trees that surround the
villages, hardly relieve the forlorn and empty look of the country. But in
the summer what is now an apparent waste, is covered with corn-fields and
other crops and freely irrigated by numerous " kdrezas''^ that cross the road
at frequent intervals on their way from the heights to the fields below.
The " kdrez'^ is a subterranean aqueduct uniting the waters of several springs
and conducting their united volumes in one stream to the surface at a lower
level. They are very common in Affghanistan, and have retrieved large districts
from the wilderness.

The country from Shckhabad towards Ghazni rises gradually as far as
''Bahun i SJier" (the Lion's mouth) whence it falls to Ghazni about twenty-
four miles distunt.j /Tlie " Sher Dahan" as it is more commonly called, forms

I

[ 184 ]

the entrance to a narrow gorge, through which the road leads hy a steep
descent, and is the point I have selected to divide the country lying between
Kohat and Kandahar into an eastern and western division for the conve-
nience of description, as well as its being on the high ground that forms the
water-shed line between them. Ghazni is one of the oldest cities of Afghanis-
tan. The ancient city now in ruins, and to which fabulous dimensions are
assigned, was founded by Sabaktagi in the latter part of the tenth century,
and formed the seat of empire of his son and successor Mahmud Ghaznawi.
Arising from the midst of these ruins that occupy the ground east of the
present city, are two lofty minars that stand about 350 yards apart, and are
said to have formed the limits of the '' Beioan Khana" or audience hall of
Mahmud. They are built of large flat red bricks still in an excellent state
of preservation, and ranged in ornamental designs, and in some parts covered
with ancient Arabic (Kufic) inscriptions. The one on the east by far the
finest of the two as well in regard to the quality of the material as the
ornamental decorations, is pierced in its upper part by a large hole said to
have been done in the Chighatti wars by a cannon shot. Among these ruins
are also the crumbling remains of the Mausoleum of Mahmi'id Ghaznawi, and
his two sons Sultans Muhammad and Masiiiid. All are objects of great vene-
ration to the natives, and are visited by hosts of devotees. The tomb of
Mahmud is held the most sacred, and has lost nothing of its sanctity, though
desecrated by the most civilized nation waging war with one of the most
barbarous.

The present city after having been frequently overwhelmed as well by
physical as by political misfortunes, was finally taken by storm by a British
army on the 23rd July, 1839, and its fortifications blown up. Ghazni is now
a place of no importance, and has all the appearances of a decayed city. New
fortifications have been raised on the foundations of the old ones and built of
their debris and fresh clay, &c. The environs contain many villages, and
abound in " ziarats'" or holy shrines, the number of which is said to amount
to 197, only a few short of rendering Ghazni a place of pilgrimage as holy as
Mecca. These are for the most part surrounded by orchards, vinej^ards and
corn-fields, through the midst of which, on the west of the city, flows the
Ghazni river on its way south-westwards to the lake Ab-istada, and turning
several water-mills "en route." Wheat, barley and madder are raised in this
district in great abundance. Of the two first, Cabul draws its chief supply
hence. In fact Logar and Ghazni may be considered as the southern gra-
naries of Cabul. Madder is largely cultivated throughout this district, and
is exported to Hindustan. The plant requires four years to reach maturity
and till the third year, sheep, &c., arc allowed to graze its leaves and stems.

[ 1S5 ]

whilst in tlie fourth year they are proteefceJ for seed and the rooU Collected
and dried in the sun. The well known action of the colouring matter of this
plant on the earthy constituents of bone, forming an insoluble compound with
them, has not escajjed the notice of the Affghans, who also declare that the
colour of the meat too is reddened by it. Maize, millet, pulses and carrots
and other vegetables are largely cultivated here, whilst the orchard fruits of
Ghazni are famous, and its melons are celebrated throughout tlie country.
The climate of Ghazni for several months of the year is very cold. iSnow
lies on the ground i'rom November to February. In summer the heat is said
not to equal that of Cabul or Kandahar, though it is rendered disagreeable
and injurious by constant dust storms, whilst the bare rock}' heights of
Balal that arise immediate!}' to the north of the city radiate their heat into
it and render the night air close and oppressive.

During the summer and autumn months, fevers of the typhoid or
bilious type are said to be very prevalent and fatal, wliilst in winter, the
mortality among the million is greater than in other cities of Aflghanistan,
owing to the severity of the cold and the scarcity of fuel. Wood is not
usually to be had for fuel, and its place is supplied by thorny shrubs that
grow in the surrounding country, thougli every available combustible is also
used by the poor.

Western Division. — The western division extending fiom Ghazni to
Kandahar, presents two open elevated plains or steppes, those of Ghazni and
Kandahar connected by a narrow interval, the valley of the river Tarnak.
The plains of Ghazni and Kandahar resemble each other in natural features.
In both, the soil is sandy or gravelly and encroached on at intervals by off-
shoots from surrounding mountains..

Plain of Ghazni. — Excepting along the course of its river to the vicinity
of which tlie cultivation and villages are mostly confined, the plain of
Ghazni has an enipty and bare aspect. The streams of " karezas" cross
the road at intervals of eight or ten miles on their wa\' to the few villages
that are widely scattered over the plain country.

Tlie distant hills extend in low ranges of bare rock, and the country
skirting them is a raviney waste, wandered over by a vagabond section of the
Ghilzai tribe called Koehi (a term applied generally to all true nomades in
Affghanistan) whose immense Hocks of goats, sheep and camels, share the
pasture with herds of wild deer (gazelles) which with wolves, foxes and
hares, are the wild denizens of this wilderness, in which also tortoises and
several species of lizard abound. The black hair tents (" klieghdi") of these
Israelites of the desert are seen dotting the country at frequent intervals, and
always occupying the sheltered hollows in its surface for protection from the
2 B

[ 186 ]

keen blast of the wost wind, which blows with considerable violence during
the spring, iUid, till llie sua be well risen, is very bleak and numbing in its
effects, and injurious to tlie eyes Irom the force with which it drives particles
of dust before it. A stunted brush-wood seldom exceeding three feet in
height, and usually not so high, is scattered over the dreary waste. Legumin-
ous plants of the Papilionaceous d'vision, such as the camel's thorn (Hedy-
sarum Alhazi) several varieties of Astragalus, spiny, rest harrow (Ononis
spinosa) &c., the sensitive Mimosa, togetlier with a plant of the rue family
called by the natives " lipaud,'" and the common Absinth (Artemihia Judaica),
orchids, &c., are the most generally distributed, whilst the dwarf tamarisk
preferring a sandy soil, is found where such prevails. The wild rue and
absinth are, in general use, as domestic medicines among the natives. 1'he
former for rheumatism and neuralgic affections, and the latter known by the
names " lukha''' and " talkh,'''' (" Pukhshti" and Persian terms, expressive of
its bitterness) ; is used in cases of fever, debility and dyspepsia and also as
a vermifuge. The lipaud, owing to its heavy nauseous odour, is supposed to
keep off' evil spirits, and is therefore to be found in every house. It is burned
on all occasions of joy or sorrow, at the bed side of the sick or wounded, at
the birth of a child, at the celebration of a wedding, &c. In towns ^^ fakirs'^
armed with a bason of tire burn the seeds on the approach of a Khan or Sirdar,
and as he passes waft the smoke towards him at the same time invoking a
blessing on his head in hopes of some pecuniary reward.

Valley of the Tarnak. — This stream arising from some springs that issue at
the base of a high rock near Umkur, Hows south-westwards through an open
raviney country as far as Kilat-i-Gliilzi. Beyond this point, the river follows
its course through a more contracted valley, tliat I'alls rapidly in elevation as
it proceeds westward, and coming out on the plain of Kandahar, passes six or
eight miles south of that city and afterwards joins the river Argandab, which
further on uniting with the river Halmand, Hows into the lake Hamiin in
Sistan. At Kilat-i-Ghilzi the country presents a remarkable appearance. At
different distances from each other, varying from two to six or more miles, and
separated by low raviney ground, rise sevei-al table-like elevations which all
appear of about the same height, viz. about two hundred feet. They are
formed of indurated clay and round pebbles or gravel, and have perfectly flat
summits, the edges of which slope rapidly and directly to the base. Khilat-i-
Ghilzi itself occupies the summit of one of these. They appear to indicate
the level of some former plain that stretched twenty-five or thirty miles
between the mountains that now close the distant view to the north and
south. Whilst the raviney ground between them which consists of similar
materials, marks the action of former floods, now altered and increased by the
effects of time and seasons.

[ 187 ]

The Tarnak is dammed up at intervals in its course and the water led off in
canals for purposes of irrigation : consequently in the hot season the river is
almost entirely exhausted. There is considerable cultivation along the banks
of the river, but few villages, which is accounted fur by the high road between
Cabul and Kandahar at this point following the course of the river. The
villagers to escape the onus of hospitality, prefer living in secluded dells four
or five miles from their fields, rather than part with their substance on the
unequal terms of one-sided hospitality.

Kandahar. — Kandahar is situated on an open plain in the angle formed by
the junction of the rivers Tarnak and Argandab, and about eight miles distant
from the one and six from the other, though separated from both by low
mountain ridges.

Occupying the base of a bare rocky hill about four miles to the west of
Kandahar are the ruins of the ancient city, " ^hahr-i-Konalt^ also called
" Shahr-i-Husain Shah" after its last king. The remaiLs of its former exten-
sive defences crown the height of the rock, and were supplied with water from
adjacent reservoirs partially cut out of the rock and ))artially built up. It is
said to have been founded by Alexander the Great, and to liavo been several
times destroyed and rebuilt by its Arab, Persian, Tartar, Turkoman and Uzbek
conquerors, and was finally taken by surprise and sacked and destroyed l)y
Nadir Shah about 1738 A. D. who removed its site to tiie open plain about
two miles south-east and called the new city Nadirabad. This was hardly
built before it was destroj^ed by Nadir Shah's successor in Affghanistan, Ahmad
Shah Abdul, who founded the present city in IT-l?, and called it Ahmad Shahr
or Ahmad Shahi.

The ruins of the old city are very extensive and without apparent dimi-
nution have been delved for years and carried away as manure for the fields.
They are also frequented searched for sulphur and nitre, both of wliich are met
with in small quantities, as also coins, gold and other precious things, especially
after heavy falls of rain.

Half way up the north-east face of the hill on which this city is built, and
situated between the ruins of two towers, is a flight of forty steps (chihal zina)
leading to a recess in the ruck ; at the entrance to which on each side is the
figure of a crouched leopard, nearly life size. The whole is carved out of the
solid limestone rock, and is said, in native histories of tlie place, to have
occupied seventy men for nine years before it was completed. The chamber
in the rock is about twelve feet liigh and eight wide, while its depth equals its
height. The sides of the interior are covered with Persian inscriptions carved
in relief. Tliey are said to have occupied the hthogra])her four years, and are
to the effect that on the 13th of the month Shawal, 928 A. H. king Babar
2 B 2

[ 188 ]

conquered Kandahar, and appointed his sons Akbar and Humdyiiii successively
as its rulers. A long list of the cities of Babar's empire then follows, and
most of the large cities between Cabul and Burdwan are mentioned.

The present city of Kandahar is enclosed by fortified walls of an oblong
form about three and a half miles in circuit, and surrounded by a deep ditch.
Its length lies north and south, and tbe walls are pierced by six gates, viz. ;
the Badurani and Cabul on the east, the Shikarpiir on the south, the Herat
and Topkhana on the west, and tlie Tdgah gate on the north. This last how-
ever has for many years been built up and to all intents became a portion of
the surrounding wall, the northern portion of the city being selected and
occupied by the " Ar^g''^ which contains the citadel, the governor's residence,
barracks, &c. The two main streets which run one from the Cabul to tlie
Herat gate and the other from the Shikarpur gate towards the citadel, cross
each other at right angles about the centre of the city under an arched dome,
the " c/i(:!r6«," beneath whicli is a reservoir formerly kept in repair for the use
of the citizens, but long since covered over and neglected ; these streets con-
tain tlie four bazars which are named after the gates by wliich they are
entered from without, and that leading to the " ^r^" being called the " Shahi
Bazary These present a busy scene being thronged the greater part of tlie
day, by a mixed crowd of Aff'j;hans, Biliichis, Persians, and Hindus, &c. who
meet here to exchange their merchandise. The Hindus are the moht numei'ous
and the wealthiest merchants and carry on a very profitable trade, (if they
were but allowed to enjoy the profits of their industry without tyrannous
exactions) with Bombay via Shikar[)ur and Kurachi. They iin[)ort British
produce, viz.: silks, calicoes, muslins, chintzes, merinos, woollen and broad
cloths, &c. knives, scissors, needles, threads, papers, &e. and Indian produce
such as indigo, spices, sugar, medicines, &c. They export productions of
AflFghanistan to India and the Paujub, viz. : madder, asafoitida, wool, preserved
fruits, quince-seeds, pomegranate rinds, tobacco, felts, silk (raw), rosaries, &c.
the produce of Kandahar ; and horses, " yuhus'^ or baggage ponies, Birgan
carpets, copper utensils, silk, &c. the produce of Persia.

The traile between Kandahar and Herat and Mashad is carried on princi-
pally by Persians, who bring down silk, raw and manufactured, copper
utensils, guns, daggers, swords, precious stones, (torquoise), brocade, gold and
silver braiding, Brigian ducats, horses, kuvks, carpets, &c. and take back wool,
ftlts, postins, and skins, viz. : fox, wolf, &c. &c.

Kandahar is a mean city and does not possess any building worthy of notice
except the tomb of its founder Ahmad Shah. This is an octagonal structure
overlaid outside with coloured porcelain bricks, and surmounted by a gilded
dome, surrounded by small minarets. It overtops all the surrounding build-

[ 389 ]

ings, and its dome attracts the attention of the traveller approaching the citj
from a distance. It occupies an open space between the citadel and the
Topkhana gate. A similar though smaller space between the citadel and
the Badurani gate is occupied by the " ganf^ or mart for all the grain and
live stock entering the city for sale. The city in its general aspect presents
an irregular collection of mud huts, (some of which are two stories high), and
domes. The streets and lanes are everywhere filthily dirty and taint the air
with their noxious effluvia. Water conducted in canals from the river Argan-
dab circulates freely through the city in small channels ; but it is polluted at
every step by all manner of ofTil and street filth,, notwitlistanding wliieh it is used
commonly and without compunction by the inhabitants for all domestic pur-
poses. There are, however, wells of excellent water in various parts of the
city. The houses of the rich are flat-roofed, two and sometimes three stories
high, and usually surrounded by courts and gardens. Those of the poor, are
on the other hand low domed chanibers or mean huts crowded close together
and very filthy. The inner walls of the better houses are plastered with
gypsum which, whil>t moist, is stamped with ornamental patterns and sprinkled
with powdered talc or mica, which imparts to the whole a very chaste ajtpear-
ance much resembling frosted silver. This gypsum is found in great quantity
on the plain, east of the city at from six inches to as niariy feet below the
surface. It is dug out in crystallized fragile coralline masses, and is calcined
previously to being used as a cement. The heat in this process i.s generally
carried to too high a degree, and destroys much of the cohesive properties of
the gypsum as a cement. Kandaliar is divided into seventy-eight " mahallas"
or districts, named after the chiefs of the several tribes inhabiting them.
Some tribes occupy four or five " mahallas" under a separate chief in each.
The following list gives an approximation to the number of houses of each
tribe: —

]iarakzaie, 910 Kharoti, 200

Murzai, GOO Ghilzai, 100

Alikozai, G50 Ijiunizai, 400

Popalzui, GOO Sarkane, , 200

Ishakzai, GOO Ismailzai, 100

K&kar, 550 Banj.iian (shop keepers), 100

Alizai, 200 Dum (musicians), 40

Khagwani, 150 Pathan, 200

Makuzai, 100 Turk, 50

Badurani, • 150 Eabar and Babi, 200

Saddozai, 100 Aehakzai, 150

Kulizai, 350 Bisakzai, 100

[ 190 ]

Maddozai, 150 Kashmiri,.. 100

Parsuran, 1,240 Kulalan (potters), 100

Pirian, 100 Massali (sweepers), 100

Doulat Shahi, 50 Eeslim Farosh (silk vendors), 100

Arab, 50 Ghasrlaram (dairj'meii), 100

Aakzikliel, 50 Jatt (barbers), ... 40

Hindu, 300

Total, ... 9,310

No correct estimate of the population can be formed from these data, for
several hundred houses are uninhabited, and fully a third part of the whole
city is in a deserted and ruinous state. The general estimate however is
between 1G,000 and 20,000. The former number is probably near the truth.
Por reckoning at five souls per house for two-thirds only which are inhabited,
the population would be 31,030. From this deduct nearly half for exagger-
ation on the part of my informant, and the real probable population will be
found about 15,515. Of late years the population has greatly diminished
owing to various causes, the frequent ravages of pestilence and famine and the
hard rule of the vicious governors of the country, being the chief. For the
latter reasons all manufactures are effectually cruslied in their development,
and the various industrial occupations usually pursued in cities, are in a very
sluggish state.

The production of silks and the manufacture of felts, postins and rosaries
are the principal industrial products of Kandahar exclusive of agriculture.

Silk is produced in considerable quantity at Kandahar both in the city and
in the villages around. The entire produce of the district is engrossed by
Sirdar Gholam Hydar Khan who is said to realize half a lakh of Rupees per
annum by its sale. He has a filature adjoining his own residence in tlie
" Ar," from the superintendent of which the following details have been
obtained. The eggs commence hatching about " Nau roz''' the 21st March.
For five or six days previously they are carried about the person in small bags
which are at all times in warm and dry places. As soon as it is ascer-
tained-that the worms are emerging from their shells the eggs are spread out
on a sheet stretched by the four corners at a convenient height from the ground
in a clean airy and wliitewashed room, and as the worms are hatched they are
removed into an adjoining room prepared for them. Tliis is long, lofty and
airy, and the windows are supplied witli screens to keep out flies and prevent
too much glare. Along its centre extends a frame work of wood about four
feet high and covered with mats (chatti.) On these the worms are placed and
regularly snp[)lied with young and fresli mulberry leaves. The worms are
never touched with the hand, all handling is carefully avoided ; tlx y are

[ 191 ]

transferred from tlie sheet ou which they are born to the platform on wiiioh
they are finally to entomb themselves in their cocoons together with the twigs
or leaves on which tliey have crawled, a supply being always strewed on the
sheet. The eggs continue hatching during a period of two or three weeks and
those which are later than this usually do not hatch at all. As soon as the
caterpillars are born they commence eating and with little intermission con-
tinue the process for nine days, at the conclusion of which they sleep conti-
nuously for three days, and on waking again continue eating for three days and
so on alternately sleeping and eating for periods of three days. In this man-
ner the time is passed till the 60th day, on which the cateri)illar commences
and completes his cocoon. Some spin their cocoons dxiring the eight or ten
days preceding the 60th day from that of their birth, but seldom later.
When all the worms have spun their cocoons the latter are collected in heaps in
a third room. From these, those intended for seed are then separated and the
remainder stored in heaps according to size, colour, and quality. The cocoons
intended for breeding are strung on threads carefully avoiding injury to the
chrysalis, and suspended over a clean sheet stretched beneath them in the
breeding room. During eight or ten days the moths continue to come out
of the cocoons and collect together on the sheet, where after a time the
females lay their eggs, and then die in the course of a week or ten days. The
eggs are collected in bags and kept in boxes or jars till the approach of the
next " Nau Uoz," all moisture being avoided and guarded against. The
greatest cleanliness is always observed iu all parts of the building and no
sick man especially any aillicted with disease of the skin, is permitted to
attend the worms, and all noise or anything tending to alarm them is care-
fully avoided, whilst great pains are taken effectually to exclude Hies, at the
same time providing a free access of air and light. During the night the
building is hgbted with lamps, and several attendants keep watch for the
safety of the worms. In the still of night the noise made by several thou-
sands of worms feeding at the same time is described as very loud and aston-
ishing and resembling the sound of continuous sawing.

The cocoons collected for their silk are spread out in the sun for two or three
hours by which the chrysalis are killed and the cocoon rendered soft and
pliant, and when taken iu the hand feels hot and steamy. They are then cast
into a large copper boiler containing a sufficiency of hot water, in which they
are boiled and stirred about briskly with a slender rod called " ahukh glrdak'^
till the fibres become loose and free in the water. A bundle of the fibre is now
caught up on the point of the stirring rod and attached to a wheel on which
it is wound oft'. Four seers of fresh cocoons after exposure to the sun lose
2^ seers of their weight. From the remaining i\ seers of dry cocoons are pro-

[ 193 ]

duced 10 " clattaks'" of silk and 10 " chattaks'' of clirysalis. The 10
chattaks of silk, lose two cliattaks in weiylit by treatment in tbe boiler, the
loss consisting of dirt, greasy matter, &c. The eight chattaks left yield two
sorts of silk in equal proportions, viz. " Charkhi resJimti'^ and " sarnak
resJiam." The first is the best and almost entirely exported to Bombay.
The price in Kandahar is 12 Company's Eupees for four " chittaks." The
Sarnak resham or that wound off on the fingers as the former is on the
wheel, as their respective names express, is of inferior quality and entirely
consumed in the district, and is chiefly used in the ornamental embroidery
of cloaks, saddle clotlis, &c. &c. Its price varies from four to seven Company's
Rupees for four " Ghittaks''' according to quality. The silk prepared from
the cocoons from which the moths have escaped is called " Pila'^ resham
or '^ Kattjiii,''^ and is inferior to the " Sarnak" resham though used for similar
purposes.

The silk produced at Kandahar is capable of much improvement. The
cocoons are small and of unequal size and of different colours, yellow, white
and bluish according to the thickness of tlie silk ; tlie majority of the worms
are reared in the villages around, but principally in those along the river
Argandab, where also the mulberry trees are most abundant. In Kohan Dil
Khan's time, the mulberry trees around Kandahar were estimated at a lakh,
and the number has not since diminished. The whole of the silk produced
in the district is monopolized by the Sirdar, to whose agent alone may the
producers sell their silk. Some in return receive cash, but the great miijority
have their names and amount of silk brought entered in a book, and a
corresponding remission is made in their quota of the revenue in return.
Eggs are supplied by the Sirdar's Agent to all applicants " gratis." The
villagers however not profiting by the work take little interest in it, and
the numbers of breeders diminish yearl}^, and consequently tlie quantity of
silk produced, whilst its quality, rather than improving, deteriorates owing to
the quality of I'ood the worms are sujiplied with. In Herat where the worms
are reared in greater or less quantity in almost every house, the mulberry tree
is described as being cultivated in plantations of young bushes for the purpose
of supplying the worms with a tender and juicy food, on which diet the health
of the worms is maintained, whilst their peculiar productive qualities are
greatly increased. In Kandahar no pains are taken with regard to the
quality of the diet of the silkworms, but the extremities generally of the
branches of old and young trees alike are lopped off for their food. And the
trees are generally let out on hire by their owners to two parties at the same time,
to the silk producer for the leaves and to the fruiterer for the fruit. Besides
the silk-trade, several others are pursued in Kandahar, and afford occupation

t 193 ]

and support to limidrcds of families. The principal are the nianufacture of
felts, rosaries and copper vtssels of all sorts, whilst dyeing gives occupation
to a large class also. Sheep skin coats are also extensively manufactured. A
few notes with regard to some of these may not here be out of place.

Felts are extensively manufactured at Kandahar, whence they are distributed
throughout the country and exported to the Panjab and Persia, to the latter
country in exchange for her own felts.

The mode of manufacture is apparently very simple, and the beauty and
accuracy of the patterns in the finer kinds is astonisliing. A large mat called
" chappar^^ formed of the stems of the Guinea-grass, bound together with
thin cords and crushed is the principal instrument used in their production,
and for the finer kind?, a large knife is us-ed for mowing down the surfiice, to
an equal level and developing the clearness of the pattern. The " ITw," which,
ill the best sort of felts, consists entirely of sheep's wool, is usually a mixture
of wool with goat's and camel's hair picked and cleaned. This is spread out
evenly on the " chappar" which is then rolUd up with firm pressure with the
feet (the Peshawaries employ the back of the forearm in this work) unrolled
and rerolled from the opposite end. This process of rolling backwards and
forwards, which occupies a considerable time owing to the slow and continued
* to and fro' action that accompanies tlie rolling and unrolling and revolving,
is continued i'or lour or five hours, by which time the fibres have become firmly
and intimately interwoven. The felt is now taken up, washed with soap and
water, dried, and again stretched on the " cliappar,^' when coloured patches of
wool are arranged according to pattern on its surface, and the whole is then
again submitted to the rolling process for four or five hours, after which the
Felt is completed and fit for u.se. The finer kinds are trimmed with a mowing
knife which greatly improves the appearance and brings out the distinctness
of the colours. These felts are commonly used as car[)ets, cushions, bedding,
horse clothing, &c. and by nomades as a warm lining for their hair tents. They
vary in price from one or two llupees to fifty or sixty per piece according to
pattern, size and quality.

Rosaries are extensively manufactured at Kandahar from a soft crystallized
silicate of magnesia (chrysolite) which is quarried from a hill at Shahmaisdd
about 30 miles north-west of the city, and where also a soft soap-stone (stea-
tite) and antimony are obtained in considerable abundance. The stone varies
in colour from a light yellow to a bluish white and is generally opaque. The
most esteemed kind, however, is of a straw colour and semi-transparent, and
much resembles amber ; some specimens are of a mottled greenish colour, brown
or nearl}'^ black, and are used for the same purposes as the lighter varieties.
From all kinds, rosary beads and charms of various sorts are made and largely
2 c

[ 19'i ]

exported especially to Mecca. They vary in price from a cou[)le of annas to a
hundred Rupees in Kandahar. The dust and debris produced in turning the
beads, &c. when reduced to powder is used by native physicians as a remedy for
heart-burn.

The " post in" or sheep skin coat, the ordinary winter dress of the people is
made up here, as well as in Ghazni and Cabul, in considerable numbers.
The following is the process pursued. The skins as soon as removed (with the
wool in its integrity) are stretched out to dry and in this state are sold by
the owners to the curers ; by whom the dried skin is moistened with water
and rubbed with a mixture of equal parts of wheat or barley flour and rice-
flour with the addition of a little salt. This mixture is rubbed in daily for a
period of four or five days, during which the skin is pulled and stretched in
every direction till rendered perfectly soft and pliant. At the end of this
time the meal mixture is scraped and the whole skin is washed in running
water, and the wool is at the same time cleansed. The skin is then dried and
handed over to the tanners who, after scrapmg off" all the cellular tissue, &c.
with a large and sharp-edged iron scraper, supplied with a projecting handle
on each side, moisten the inner side of the skin only with water and rub into
it the tanning mixture which, owing to the properties of its principal ingredi-
ent also dyes the skin yellow. This mixture consists of the following in-
gredients, the aggregate of whose proportions is suflicient to tan 100 sheep
skins, viz.

Pomegranate rinds dried, 9 ibs.

Alum, 2 lbs.

Eed ochre (from Herat,) 4 oz.

These are all finely powdered and intimately mixed and then two pints of
sweet oil, or sufficient to render the mixture of the consistence of a thick
syrup, is added. This mixture is spread over the skin with the hand and
allowed to dry for three days, after which it is carefully scraped off" and the
skin is rubbed with firm pressure with a wooden rubber and thoroughly cleared
of the tannino- mixture by crumpling between the hands and shaking and
beatino' which also make the skin soft and supple. This completes the curing
as well as the dyeing of the skins which are now passed over to the tailors by
whom they are cut and sown into short coats or " postincha'^ requiring two or
three skins ; into long coats or " postaJci" requiring five or six skins ; and into
long-sleeved coats " fOstirC^ reaching from head to heel and requiring eight or
ten skins. The silk embroidery and other ornamental finishing is added by
women. The price of one of these varies from one to forty Co.'s Eupees or
more according to size and finish. The postin is admirably suited to the
climate of this country and to the out door life led by the mass of the people.

[ 195 ]

Those prepared in Cabul are most esteemed. They are soft and supple and do
not stiffen or harden after being wetted. Those prepared at Kandahar are
not free from this last fault. The postins of this country are far superior to
those worn by the Tartar population of the Crimea in all the above qualities.
Agriculture. -^-The country round Kandahar is covered with orchards, vine-
yards, and corn-fields and other crops, and considerable attention is paid to the
cultivation of the soil. To supply it with the material for the nourishment of
the seed committed to its care, and to realize the greatest possible produce in
the season is the aim of the cultivator who, with these objects in view, dresses
the mould with manures, freely supplies it with water and at every oppor-
tunity exposes the earth to the influences of the atmosphere. A favorite
manure is the earth about the mines of the old city, mixed with stable refuse
and street sweepings. Cultivated land is of two kinds viz. " aii" and " lal-
lam." Abi land is always irrigated by artificial means, and three methods are
in vogue, viz. : —

1. In hilly districts the waters of springs issuing on the surface are led in
channels into the cultivated grounds. These often course many miles along
the slopes of intervening bills on their way to the fields.

2. Canals conducting the waters of rivers, from a convenient height in
their course are led into the cultivated districts, often situated twenty or
thirty miles from the origin of the canals. Where many canals are led off
from the same river and the current becomes lazy, the stream is dammed up
at intervals; the weirs being built just below the origin of tlie canals.

3. The " kcirez.'^ — This is a subterraneous aqueduct uniting several wells
and conducting their water in one stream to the surface of the earth at a
lower level. They are very common in the southern and western portions of
Affghanistan, where they have redeemed large districts from the wilderness.
They are thus made. A shaft five or six feet in depth is sunk at the spot
where the stream is to issue on the surface, and at regular intervals of from
20 to 50 or more paces, in the direction of the hill, whence it has been pre-
viously ascertained that a supply of water will be obtained, other shafts are
sunk and the bottoms of all connected together by slightly sloping tunnels.
The depth of the shaft increases with their distance from the original one
according to the slope of tlie ground. Tlieir number and so the length of the
" karez" depends on the supply of water met with, the quantity required, and
the distance of the spring from the habitable or culturable spot. The position
of the shafts is marked by ciicular heaps of earth on the surface and their
orifices are usually closed, the covering being removed at intervals of a year or
more for the purpose of cleaning and repairing the shafts and tunnels. Much
experience is required to select a spot from which a plentiful and lasting supply

2 C 2

[ 19G ]

of water will be obtained. Not unfrequently, the water is brackish and unfit
for drinking, from the large quantity of nitre it holds in solution. And many
are largely impregnated with carbonate of lime, which is sometimes seen
deposited along the margins of the stream in the form of "travertin" or
calesinter. Some karezas afford a constant supply of water for ages, whilst
others become exhausted before they have paid for the cost of their construc-
tion. The most ancient karez in Affghanistan is at Ghazni. It is said to
have been made by Sultan Mahmud Ghaznawi, and it now waters the garden
of his tomb and the fields around. On the other hand, it is not an uncommon
occurrence to see once flourishing villages and gardens deserted and in decay,
owing to the exhaustion of their only source of water. Of this there are
several instances in the Kandahar district. The villages between Khel-i-Akhua
and Mamund Kila have of late years, it is said, been deserted owing to this
cause. " Kaiezas" are occasionally, though rarely, constructed at the
government expense ; sometimes at the cost of some noble of the land, (though
now-a-days this is as rare as the former case) ; but most commonly at the
expense of the villages that are to profit by its use, between whom the cost
and the use of the water is equally divided, or proportionally so according to
the circumstances of relative numbers, &c. The infringement of previously
settled stipulations is but too frequent a cause of enmity and bloodshed be-
tween the members of adjacent villages, when the government steps in and
takes the control of the water supply into its own hands, of coui'se making a
very profitable arrangement for itself.

" Lallam'^ is the term applied to cultivated land solely dependent on the
rains for its supply of water. The fields are usually banked all round, so as to
keep and contain all the water that falls or flows into them from higher
ground. A considerable portion of the land in the Kandahar district is
" lallami;^^ the " dbi" land being principally confined to the vicinity of the
rivers Tarnak and Argandab, which, during the hot season, are almost entirely
exhausted for purposes of irrigation. In Kandahar, wheat is principally
" lallam" crop, and returns in average years from 40 to 50 fold, whilst the
same grain raised in " abi' yields from 30 to 40 fold. Barley is chiefly
raised in " abi" land, and yields on the average 60 fold. " Jtiar'" or Indian
corn also requires irrigation, and in good seasons is said to yield 80 to 100
fold.

In Kandahar, as in most parts of Affghanistan, two harvests are realized in
the year, viz. the spring and the autumn.

The spring harvest or " rabhv" produces : — -
Wheat, Gandum, Barley, Jou.

Beans, Bagri, Pulses, Ghannah.

Lentils, Masur, Madder, Bodang, &c. <fec.

[ 197 ]

The Autumn harvest or " kliarif produces: —
Maize, Juar Pulses, Mong.

Beans, Lobian, Rice, Shall.

Tobacco, Tamaku, Carrots, Giijar.

Turnips, Shalgham, Eggfruit, idJfl/y'rtrt.

Beetroot, Tomata, &c. &c.

Abi land when well attended to, frequently yields four or five different
crops in the year, and in particular instances as in that of clover (shaftal) and
lucerne (Rishta) (largely cultivated and used as fodder,) so many as 10 or 11
crops are realized annually from the same plants, and this for from six to eight
or nine years, in succession. In the former case the ground is sown with
wheat or barley in November ; this lies dormant during the winter and sprouts
in February. In March and April belore the flowers have formed, the crop
is cut twice and sold under the name of " kasil" as fodder lor cattle and
horses, and then the stalks are allowed to grow and mature grain which ia
gathered in June. After this the ground is ploughed and manured and laid
out in tobacco fields. These yield two crops at intervals of six weeks. The
ground is then prepared for carrots, turnips, &c., which are gathered in
November and December.

Tobacco. — The tobacco produced in Kanda]\ar is celebrated for its good
qualities among the natives, and is exported to Hindustaii and Bukliara.
Tliree kinds are cultivated at Kandahar, viz.: Kandahan, whicli sells at nine
annas per " maumV^ 3 lbs. Tabriz Balkhi sells at ten annas per maund.
Mansurabadi sells at one rupee four annas per maund. From the same phmts
two crops are always obtained in the season. The first called sargul is the
best, the leaves having a mild and sweet flavour. The second crop called mundhai
is strong and acid, and is used chiefly by tlie poor aud in the manul'acture
of snutf.

During April the plants are reared from seed in small beds well dressed with
manure, and the earth of wliich is finely comminuted. In May and June the
seedlings are transplanted into fields prepared for them, the earth of which
having been ploughed and manured is laid out in a regular series of ridges,
into the sides of which the young plants are fixed and freely watered till the
roots be well attached to the soil. In about six weeks the crop is cut. Each
plant is cut off at about three or four inches from tiie ground, five or six leaves
only being left, and laid flat on the ridge, and eacli side is exposed for a night
and day to the effects of the dew and sun, by which they lose their green and
assume a brown colour. They are tlien collected in large heaps in the field, and
covered over with mats or layers of straw, &c. and allowed to remain so for
ei^ht or ten days, during which the stems shrivel and give up their moisture

[ 198 ]

to the leaves. After this the heaps are carried into the village, where the
leaves are separated from their stalks, dried in the shade and tightly packed
in bundles about fourteen inches square, and thus sold for exportation. Aa
soon as the first crop is cut, the ground between the plants is turned with a
spade, manured and freely irrigated. The old stems soon put forth fresh
leaves, and in six weeks the second crop is gathered. Sometimes a third crop
is realized but the quality of tl)e tobacco is very inferior. The young seedlings
of Kandahar tobacco, packed in moist clay and bound in cloth or straw, are
carried away by villagers three and four day's journey into the country for
transplantation at their own abodes, but the produce it is said does not equal
that of Kandahar.

Melons. — Both musk and water melons are largely cultivated, and there are
several varieties of each kind, viz.; musk melons or " kharbuza," 1, garma ;
2, herati ; 3, ghaznichi tappadar ; 4, habshi ; 5, tappadar sufed ; 6, tappadar
sabz ; 7, baghtani ; 8, khurd ; 9, sarda ; 10, garmsera, &c. of these the sarda
ia esteemed the best. They require considerable attention during growth, a
free supply of water and daily turning of the fruit, which is covered over with
earth to prevent the ravages of worms, and on each plant but three flowers
are allowed to fructify, the rest being nipped off as they form.

Water melons or " Idndiiwana^'' (of which the mustafi ; 2, mur, melangi ; 3,
kirmani; 4, kaddu; 5, siah kuthur ; and 6, surkh hutbur, are the more common
varieties,) require a sandy soil, little water and little care, and the buds are
not nipped off as in the other kind of melons.

Potatoes. — Potatoes are grown to a small extent only, having been but just
introduced from Cabul, where they are said to be largely cultivated and much
appreciated by the natives. They were introduced into the latter place by the
British during their occupation of the country, 1839-40, &c. Those raised at
Kandahar are very small, but no doubt they will improve both in size and
flavour as their cultivation becomes better understood.

Fruits. — Kandahar is celebrated for its fruits, especially the apricot, the
pomegranate, the quince, and the fig. And considerable attention is paid to
keep up a good stock by grafting and careful training. Tliree methods of
grafting are practiced, viz. : 1, bud-grafting ; 2, tube-grafting, and 3, trunk-
grafting. The first mentioned mode of grafting is the one in most general
use. With the apricot tree the following is the practice pursued. About a
month before " nau roz^^ (21st March) the seeds are placed haulon downwards
in ground previously prepared for them. Soon after " nau roz,^'' the young
plants begin to shoot above ground, and are allowed to grow here for a year,
at the end of which time they are transplanted into orchards and allowed a
twelvemonth to fix themselves firmly in the soil, being at regular intervals,

[ 199 ]

freely irrigated. At the 4!th " nau roz" or third year of the plant, the young
buds from approved varieties are removed together with a margin of bark, and
placed in water till applied to the stock, in the bark of which, a few inches
above the part up to which the plant is immersed in water, a slit is made and
the bark separated from the wood by bending the pliant stem on itself at the
spot. The graft is inserted beneath the edges of the slit, and bound above
and below the bud with thin stripes of bark from poplar and willow twigs
(bast). The branches and twigs of the stalk are then bent on themselves
into a bundle till on a level with the grafts, which seldom exceed three on the
same stock, around which they are loosely bound as a protection from the sun.
As soon as it is ascertained by the growth of the bud that the graft has
succeeded, the bindings are removed and the leaves and branches of the young
tree pruned off. The stocks are then supplied with manure, and water at
regular intervals, and bear fruit in the third year after being grafted and the
fifth of their age. Hardy but inferior varieties of apricot, known as surkhcJia
and sufedcha, are the trees used as stocks and the kasi and other approved
varieties supply the grafts.

Apricots. — Ten varieties are cultivated at Kandahar, viz. : 1, kasi ; 2, char-
baghi. These are the most esteemed. Considerable quantities are dried and
exported to Hindustan. The ripe fruit is sliced ojien on one side, the stone
removed, split, its kernel extracted and replaced in the tleshy part of the fruit,
which is then laid out on mats or straw in the sun to dry. The sweet ones
prepared from overripe fruit are called ashJdak, whilst the subacid ones pre-
pared from the nearly ripe fruit are called, ^' khubani.'^ The pasras so named
because it is the last to ripen, is of two varieties, viz. : p. kalan and p. khurd,
the great and small pasras. The surkhcha, sufedcha, plan, shams, and shakar-
para are inferior varieties, dried without removing the stone (putamen) and
are known as lai^. They are very acid and are generally used as a relish in
many dishes and in sharbats. Gold and silversmiths use a hot infusion of
them to clean their metals and give them a bright lustre.

flums. — 'i'hese are the gurja, ghwara, and alabukhara. They are allowed
to dry on the trees, and then shaken off.

Peaches. — Tirmai and bahri. The former are of great size and excellent
flavour. The peach is usually grafted on the apricot stock.

Cherries. — A small, black, acid, and inferior variety called '• atubalu." They
make good preserves.

Apples. — The shakar, khuluk, labon, and sabzseb are the more common
varieties.

Quinces. — Shakar, miana, and tursh. Cut in slices and dried for use iu
winter. The seeds are sold separately and used for medicinal and other

[ 200 ]

sharbats ; largely exported. The fruit is often preserved whole on account of
its agreeable smell.

Pears — Nalc. — An inferior variety.

Fomegranates — Anar. — 1, panjwai ; 2, bam; 3 bedana ; 4, habshi ; 5, khu-
luki ; 6, gulnar, &c. The first are of great size and excellent flavour and are
exported. The rinds of all the varieties are dried and exported, used by
tanners and dyers. The bark the root of bam is used as a remedy in diarrhoea
and dysentery by the natives.

Figs. — Two varieties. Makhai, large and black, in the dry state exported
to Hindustan. Sada, a small white variety consumed at home.

Ifulberries — Tw^.— Bedana, ibrahim khana, danadar, tor, kalauz, shah, tut,
pahlawi, are the common varieties, sometimes dried for use in winter season.

Grapes — Angur. — Sometimes trained on frames of woodwork, but most
frequently on ridges of earth eight or ten feet high, the vines growing in the
trenches between. Nineteen varieties are cultivated at Kandahar, viz. : 1,
kishmish sufed ; 2, k. surkh ; 3, lal sufed ; 4. 1. surkh ; 5, sahibi surkh ; 6, s.
ablak ; 7, rocha surkh ; 8, r. sufed; 9, khalili ; 10, hosaini ; 11, mehri; 12,
aeta; 13, shekh kalli ; 14, toran ; 15, peshangi ; 16, khairogolamani ; 17,
kliatin ; 18, amir mahumdi ; 19, iskri ; khatin grapes produce mannakha
raisins. The 5ffl7a'6i5 produce sun-dried raisins of inferior quality consumed at
home. The rochas and toran are inferior varieties, and consumed fresh by the
poor. Hosaini and shekh Ichalli are packed when ripe in cotton, and thus
exported, Aeta produces the doghi or abjost raisins and correspond to the
bloom raisins at home. They are thus prepared. The fresh ripe branches are
dipped for a moment two or three times into a hot alkaline solution of lime
and potashes, and then hung up in the shade to dry. The other varieties
produce the common shade dried raisins, which are largely exported. Wine is
made in small quantity, but the favorite drink of the Kandaharins, who indulge
freely in the forbidden liquor, is a strong spirit distilled from the varieties
of kismis.

Some Observations on Aefghanistan and the Affghans.

The following remarks it is hoped may not prove out of place, though
deprived probably in a great measure, of new intelligence by the researches of
so many able predecessors. The subject is considered in five paragraphs, viz. :
1, historical sketch ; 2, limits and inhabitants ; 3, climate ; 4, productions,
natural and industrial ; 5, a brief history of the origin of the Affghan people
according to their own account of themselves.

[ .^oi ]

Historical Sketch. — The early history of Affghanistau is enveloped in mystery,
and but scattered fragments are ascertained of the events concerning it that
occurred antecedent to the time of Nadir Shah, about a century and a quarter
ago.

The earliest knowledge, however, that we have of the region now known as
Affghanistan, dates about 536 B. C. At this period it fox'med the extreme
eastern portion of the Medo-Per.-ian Empire founded by Cyrus, and whose
boundary in that direction was the Indus, beyond wliich the world was sup-
posed to terminate in a vast desert. On the fall of the Medo- Persian dynasty
by the defeat of Darius about 330 B. C. by Alexander the Great (the Sikaiida}'
zu-l'Jcarnain of the Muhammadans, by whom he is classed among the prophets
of God) this country became a satrapy of the Grecian monarchy. At the
period of Alexander's journey tlirough tliis region on his way to India, the
inhabitants though not absolute barbarians, since tlie}' lived in houses and
cultivated the soil, were perfect strangers to tlie wealth and civilization that
existed on either side of tliem, among the Medes and Persians on the one
hand, and the Hindus on the other. After Alexander's death at Babylon and
the subsequent dismemberment of the Grecian empire, the country, or at
least the western portion of it came under the dominion of the Salukide
dynasty, founded about 312 B. C. by Salukas Nicator, Alexander's successor
at Babylon. The Parthians under Arbaces about 250 B. C displaced and
succeeded the Salukides, and themselves about 226 B. C. gave place to the Sas-
saindes, who, after a long dynasty, were overthrown about 651 A. D. by the
Arabs, or Saracens, who soon after overran Afghanistan with tlieir inevitable
concomitants the sword and the Koran. From this period the history of
Affghanistan emerges somewhat from the darkness that shrouds it since the
time of Alexander. The Arabs continued in power till overthrown by Sabuk-
tigin, a Tartar chief, who having conquered the northern portion of the country
afterwards founded Ghazni about 975 A. D. He was succeeded at Ghazni by
his son Mahmud, surnamed Ghaznawi, about 997 A. D. Mahmud vastly
increased the kingdom of his father, by the conquest of Hindustan and cap-
ture of Delhi al)Out 1011 A. D. and by a proportionate extension of his arms
westward, so that at his death Ghazni formed the metropolis of an empire
extending from the Tigris on the west, to tlie Ganges on the east. Mahmud
died at Ghazni after a victorious reign of thirty years, and was buried in the
city under a magnificent mausoleum at the entrance of which were placed the
celebrated sandal wood gates of Somnath, which he himself had brought off in
triumph from the great Hindu temple of that name. These, after braving
safely all the successive troubles, sackings, burnings, devastations and wars that
during eight centuries swept over old Ghazui were finally in 1639-40 aftei' the
2 D

[ 202 ]

storm antl cfipfcuve of that foitress bj a British army, deported into Hindustan
and left to rot in a Government Magazine at A^'ra. " Sic transit gloria mundi !'
The Sabuktigin dynasty lasted one hundred and eighty-seven years, and was
overthrown by that of Ghor in the person of Mahmud Ghori, who in IIS^,
A. D., sacked and burnt Ghazni. During the ascendancy of tlie Sabuktigin
dynasty, the AfFghans gradually rose to power. Mahmud tlie Ghazniviteat
the commencement of his triumphant career largely employed them as soldiers,
and after his successful invasion of Hindustan, established many chiefs from
among their tribes in the government of the difficult newly acquired provinces.
Mahmud's successor continuing his policy, placed excessive power in the hands
of the Affghans, And this continued increasing till during the early part of
the reign of the house of Ohor, when it reached the cuhninating point. The
Affghans from being the subject race, became the ruling one, and at the very
commencement of tlieir career, subdued Hindustan and established a dynasty
of their own at Delhi, or Indrapat the ancient Hindu capital about 1193,
A. D. The Affi^han or Pathan dynasty though interrupted by the Tartar
invasions under Cliingl>iz Khan in 1222 A. D., and Taimur Lang in 1389 A. D.,
and their dominions greatly curtailed, (their native country, Affglianistan liaving
become a possession of the victorious invaders) was not entirely overthrovvu
till 1525, A. D. when Babar, having twelve years previously, conquered
Affghanistan, took Delhi and established the Moghul dynast}' in Hindustan.
Babar Badshah died at Delhi in 1530, A. D. and in accordance with his
commands before death, was buried at Cabul, wliere to this da}' his tomb is
held in as much veneration by the Aifghans as if he were one of their own
saints. After this event, Affglianistan became more tlian ever an object of
contention between the rival Moghul and Persian sovereigns, and frequently
passed from the possession of one to that of the other, sometimes in the midst
of political distractions of greater importance enjoying a brief interval of
independence under native chiefs, till the time of Nadir Shah who, having
conquered Affglianistan in 1736, raised the Persian power to the highest by
the capture of Delhi and massacre of its inhabitants in 1739. But Nadir's
conquests were too rapid and too extensive to be of long duration. He himself
was murdered near Mashad in 1747, soon after his return from India laden
with its wealth and riches. At this time Ahmad Khan, an Affghan chief of
the tribe of Abdul, and an officer in Nadir's army, having seized the murdered
sovereign's treasure near Kandahar, had himself there proclaimed king of
Affghanistan under the title of Ahmad Shah " Burr-i-Durran'" (pearl of
pearls), a metaphorical expression for the acme of excellence. He was sup-
ported in his pretensions by the neighbouring Hazara and Beluch chiefs, and
many of the Affghan tribes allied to him by clanship and who have since been

[ 203 ]

disthiguislietl by the cognomen oV^ DurranV whilst '' Bardurrani^ was applied
to the other Affghan tribes, who supported his claims but were of different
olans. The ceremony of Ahmad iShah's installation in the government of his
newly-made kingdom, took place on an eminence overlooking the extensive
plain of Kandaliar (Ibe spot is now marked by an ordinary looking domed
edifice held sacred as a shrine), on wliich at a distance of about four miles
from the spot on which he was declared king, he founded the present city of
Kandahar, named it Ahmad Shahi, and made it the seat of his government,
and in which also his bones were deposited under an elegant domed buildino-.
During the reign of Ahmad Shah, Afliyhanistan tlirowing off the political
trammels from which, during the vicissitudes of centuries she had never been
free, became a distinct kingdom, and acquired more independence than she had
ever before enjoyed. All mad Shah the regenerator of his country, died in
1773 after a very successful reign of twenty-six years, and was succeeded by
his son Taimur. In 1793, after Taimur's death his son Zaman ascended the
throne. Zaman Shah as weak and cruel a prince as his father, fell a victim
to the plots of his rivals, and alter a brief reign was deposed and blinded by
his half-brother Malimud, who was himself shortly alter dej)rived of his ill-
acquired ])ouer and imprisoned by Shah Shuja-al-Mulk, the full-brother of
Zivman Shah. Shah Shnja, after a brief enjoyment of power, was forced to
abdicate and llee the country in 1809, owing to the dark consj)iracies and
rel)ellion of his enemies headed by Fatteh Khan, tiie Barakzai cliief. The
fugitive monarch at first sought refuge among the Sikhs, but being disap-
pointed ill his ill-foanded hopes, and with diiUculty escaping from the restraint
put u[)on him b}' the Sikh chieftain Ranjit Singh, threw himself on the pro-
tection of the British Government at Ludianah, though not until relieved by
Kanjit of tiiat precious burthen the koh-i-nur diamond.

Mahmud in the interim having escaped from his imprisonment, was reinstated
in the sovereignty by Fatteh Khan, who, for his services, was appointed
Wazir and his brothers Dost Muhammad Khan and Kohii Dil Khan, &c. were
placed respectively in the governments of Cabul and Kandahar.

Fatteh Khan whose power and influence were objects of envy and jealousy
to the heir-apparent, was assassinated in 1818 at Uaidrkhel near (Jhazni by
Kamran, Muhammad's son. This foul deed raised Muliammad's enemies tiirough-
out the countiy, who, under the plea of disapprobation of a crime that was
of daily occurrence and a national custom, took the opportunity to throw off
subjection to an usurped and tyrannous authority. Tlie whole country pre-
sently became convulsed with discord and rebellion, and divided into indepen-
dent chielships. Muhammad died at Herat, which was all that remained of
his usurped kingdom, and was here succeeded by his son Kamran who, after a
2 D Si

[ 204 ]

long and tyrannous exercise of power was murdered by his AVazir, Yar Muham-
mad Khan, Alikozai in 1842.

Kandahar after Fatteh Khan's death became an independent chiefship
under Kohn Dil Khan, and his brothers, who shared with him the profits of
the government: whilst Cabul at the same time fell into the hands of Dost
Muhammad Khan, all brothers of the murdered Wazir.

Such continued to be the condition of Affghanistan till 1839, when a British
army entered the country and reinstated the fugitive Shah Shuja on the throne
of his ancestors. The regenerated monarch after a very brief career was
murdered at Cabul during the rebellion and disasters that occurred there in
1841-42. Dost Muhammad Khan (who on the dispersion of all his hopes of
regaining power had surrendered himself a prisoner) on being released b\' the
British Government, hastened to his recovered principality Cabul, and having
restored order and firmly re-established his authority there, gradually extended
his power. In 1850 he brought Balkh under his rule, and in 1854 Kandahar
also sharing the same fate, became a possession of the Amir, Dost Muhammad
Khan.

Herat on the other hand, after the death of Yar Muhammad Khan in 1852,
was governed by his son Syad Muhammad Khan for three years, when he
was displaced by Muhammad Yusuf Khan, Saddozai, wlio after three months'
reign was dethroned by Isa Khan a Bardurrani chief. Isa Khan being threat-
ened by the Atf^hans, called in the Persians who took Herat in 1856. This
infringement of a previous treaty witli the British led to the Persian war of
1856-57 : on the conclusion of which, in accordance with tlie terms of a new
treaty, the Persians evacuated Herat about the middle of 1857. On their de-
parture, it fell into the hands of an AflTghan chief, Sultan Ahmad Khan
Barakzai, a prominent actor in the rebellion and ensuing disasters that occurred
at Cabul in 1841.

Limits and Mj7»«5j7rt?2if*.— Affghanistan, by which is here meant the country
of the Aff^'han people, and those allied to them by manners and customs, in
contradistinction to its political limits, is bounded on the east by the Indus
from Swat and Boner on the north, to Mittan Kot on the south, inclusive of
those districts. The southern boundary is formed by the Beluch districts of
Kach Gandawa, Sarawan and the Washai mountains, which last separate
Beluchistan from the great sandy desert that forms the south-western portion
of Affghanistan. On the west it is bounded by Persia and Persian Khoras-
san the sandy and for the most part desert region of Sistan encroaching on
the southern portion of this border. On the north, Affghanistan presents an

[ 205 ]

extremely ill-defined border, along which from west to east, lie the indepen-
dent chiefships of Maro (a dependency of Khiva) Bokhara, Kundoz, Badakh-
slan, and Kafiristan, whilst the country of the Hazaras (the Paropamisan
mountains) occupies a very considerable tract in the north-west of the coun-
try. The Hazaras are an independent (the border tribes only being subject
to the AflPghans) nomade people of Tartar origin, their features and general
bodily conformation coinciding with the type of that race. They speak, how-
ever ; a dialect of the Persian language, and like that people belong to the Sliia
sect of Muhatnmadans. They have no knowledge of tlieir origin or history,
but usually declare themselves of Moghal descent. Tiieir wealth consists in
vast flocks of horses, camels, goats and slieep. From the hair and wool of the
camel and goat, they weave a variety of warm fabrics, suited to the climate of
their country. These are known as barak, kurk, &c. which are hereafter
mentioned again. These together with sulphur and lead, the produce of their
mountains, are a source of considerable profit to the Hazaras, who largely
barter them with their neighbours the Uzbeks, Persians, and Affghans for the
products of their respective countries. The Hazaras are said to be a brave,
healthy and hardy race. I have, however, observed a frequency of leprosy
among tliose of tliis race who have settled in Affghanistan, they are usually
emploj-ed as grooms, labourers, &c. and earn but a precarious livelihood, and
consequently live on the hardest fare, rarely tasting meat and not always
ol)taining a sutHcient supply of bread. In their own country where also this
disease is said to be not unfrequent, they live entirely on the produce of their
flocks, and cultivate none of the vegetables common in Atfghanistan, though
they have abundance of wheat and barley.

Inhahilants. — Affghanistan within the above described limits is inhabited by
many distinct tribes exclusive of the Hazaras.

Several of these have no national or kindred affinity whatever to the Afighans
whilst others, though they resemble the Affghans in language, features and
many of their customs, are rejected by them as brethren, and assigned a
separate origin, their names not being found in the genealogy of the Affghans.
To the former class belong the Kazzalbashis, Parsiwans, Tajiks and other
Parsizabans. The two first are Persians and entered the country with Nadir
Shah. The Kazzalbashis serve as soldier?, and form the greater portion of
the cavalry and artillerj' branches of the Affghan forces. The Parsiwans
dwell for the most part in towns and cities, and are occupied as merchants,
shoplveepers and the various trades, whilst those who live in village communities
are husbandmen and shepherds. The Tajiks, though of a different race,
resemble the former in occupation as well as language, but they principally
lead an agricultural life, and settled in villages cultivate the soil.

[ 206 ]

To tlie second class containing those who call themselves Pathans, though of
a dift'urent origin from the Atfghans, belong to the tribes of Karani, Ashtarani,
Mashwani, Wardak, &c. The Karani division contains the Orakzai, Afridi,
Mangal, Kliattak and Khagyani tribes. This last is divided into the Zazi,
Tori and Paria sections, and the Waziris are sometimes included among these.

Each of these tribes is again divided into nunierous Ichels and zais or clans,
and each tribe possesses its own territory.

All the tribes known as Karani are found on the slopes and the eastern
ramifications of the Sufed Koh. Thus the Afridis and Orakzais occupy the
hills drained by the Bara river (a tributary of the Cabul river.) The Khat-
taks occupy the range of hills extending from where the Cabul river joins
the Indus to the Kafir Kot on the Kurram river near Bannii. The Zazis,
Toris and Parias occupy the southern slopes of the Sufed Koh, and its spurs
in that direction, which are drained by the Kurram river. Still further south
of these are found the Mangals and Waziris. The Khagyanis are separated
from these by the Cabul river, they occupy the Mawzi hills between Lalpura
and Bajour. The Dalaziks sometimes included among the Karanis, are dis-
persed throughout the country in small communities, they possess no lauds
but usually act as the servants of the Aifghans.

The Ashtaranis and Mashwanis are principally found in the Derajat. The
former are chiefly occupied as merchants, and carry their merchandize from
India to Bokhara, through Cabul and vice versa. The Mashwanis are
husbandmen, nomades and shepherds. The Wardaks occupy the narrow western
defiles of the Logar valley and the hills drained by the sources of that river.
They are fixed in villages and cultivate the soil.

Of the AfFghans, the Ghabzais, Durrdnis and Kokars are the three main
divisions. No correct estimate of the numbers of these tribes can be arrived
at, at present, though of the aggregate population of the country, they do not
number a half, but rather I believe less. In all the populous districts a large por-
tion of tlie population is made up of Parsi-zabans, viz. Kazzalbashis, Parsiwans,
and Tajiks, which last are the most numerous. There are besides many
Hindustanis and some Hindus. In the Kohistan (Highlands) of Cabul, are
found many tribes who, in features and to some extent in language, resemble
the Kafirs, though they profess Muhammadanism. Of these, the cliief tribes
inhabit the district of Logman and are known as Nimcha (half caste) Sadu,
Kawal, &c. The two last mentioned are gypsies, are very poor, lead a roving
life, tell fortunes, and are adepts at petty thieving, and have a language of
their own. Of the other tribes some speak a dialect of the Persian language,
and others a mixed patois of Pukhshtu and Kafir languages.

The total population of the country may be divided from their different

[ 207 ]

modes of life into two great and antagonistic classes, viz. those who have
fixed abodes, and those who have no fixed abodes but lead an erratic life,
migrating from the low to the highlands and vice versa, in accordance with
the changes of the season. The latter, the nomade population, though they
sometimes cultivate a sufficiency of corn for their own consumption, live for
the most part on the produce of their flocks, and beyond the attention requir-
ed by these have no other occupation than that of robbers. And when
victims are not to be found within their own territories they seek them in
those of their neighbours, who at once resent the trespa-s, and thus the
ordinary monotony of a pastoral life is varied by the excitement of a retaliative
warfare and surprisals.

The fixed population dwelling in the towns and villages, are occupied in tlie
cultivation of the soil, the various trades and other industrial pursuits. But
among these, the Affghans (except only the poorest of the poor) from their
positions as masters, deem it derogatory to their honor to engage in any of
the occupations pursued by their companions. And on being asked the reason,
with an air of offended dignity deign no further reply than " ze Fulclitun rjam''^
(I am a Pukhtun). The Aifghan beyond serving as a soldier, or cultivating
the ground for his own su[)i)<jrt, or engaging as a wholesale merchant follows
no other useful occupation. The merchant or the poorest of liis class will
not keep or serve in a shop. Tiie villager who grows his own corn looks down
on the market garduiier, and would himself on no account raise vegetables.
An Affghan who has had patience and perseverance sufficient to master the
orthography of the Koran, not to say its interpretations, for though the
number of those capable of reading (apart from the priesthood) is few, that
of those who understand what they read is still less, has no exercise for his
calling among his own tribe. They will not follow him in his devotional
geimflexions, nor will they emplo}' him to perform the burial ceremonies of
their dead ; neither will they entrust the education of their children in thiir
prayers, &c. to him, lest, they say, by his taking advantage of his influential
position, we should have a cause of enmity against him, and by injury to him
become sinners before God. In fact the priesthood in this country, though a
very powerful body, and in most cases for evil, are, with comparatively few
exceptions, in like manner as the mercantile community, manufacturers, mecha-
nics, &c. mostly foreigners, that is Persians, Hindustanis (Punjabis and Kash-
miris) Arabs and others.

The Affghans in fact are essentially a rustic or nomad people, and like all
uncivilized mountaineers inveterate and savage robbers, though at the same
time they are hospitable to strangers seeking their protection ; but of late
years, this ancient custom has, to a considerable extent, become obsolete. To

[ 208 ]

the cireurastanoes of their mode of life may be attributed their aversion to all
settled or civilized occupations ; whilst on the other iiand, their frugal and
temperate alimentary habits in this state, combined with an active open air
life, renders them hardy and athletic. Thej are generally a well made hand-
some race of middle stature, and always cherish long and patriarchal beards.
They are fond of field sports, such as hunting and sliooting, and of music,
which is of two kinds, martial and anacreontic, and though not devoid of
pathos is brought out with the full power of the lungs. With regard to the
latter, the curious stranger on enquiring their meaning, soon learns to his
disgust that the love-songs of the Affghans are an index to their brutal vices,
indulged in by all classes alike from the king to the scavenger. They are
addressed to boys !

The Affghans are extremely superstitious, and have unbounded belief in
miracles ; and their priests by pampering these traits in their character, have a
very powerful hold on the control of their actions and conduct, and which
they not unfrequently use for the advancement of their own designs. Every
village has its zidrat or holy shrine, with its attached legend of some mira-
culous power. The greater the impossibility of this, the larger the number of
devotees, and the profits of the miraclemonger usually a cunning mullah or
fakir. They believe firmly in fairies, genii, astrology, alchemy, &c. and not a
few spend their wealth and years of toil in search of the philosopher's stone,
which they believe the British possess, and are thus enabled to make gold
and silver ad libitum.

Climate. — A country whose surface is diversified as that of Affghanistan,
presenting every variety of mountain and steppe scenery, must needs offer a
corresponding variation in its climate ; and the opinion of its inhabitants
formed from experience is a safe criterion in the absence of personal observation.

The northern portion of the country, more particularly that occupying the
hilly ranges that skirt the southern base of Hindu Kush, is considered by the
Affghans as the most favored spot on the earth, the land of milk and honey.
Here are produced in lavish abundance all the fruits and grains common to an
European country, together with sugarcane and many Indian pulses, &c.,
whilst with regard to the climate, the people themselves offer the best proof
of its excellence. A fair, tall, muscular and well proportioned people, they as
much excel the natives of Hindustan physically as does the European.
]n<leed, occasionally some of these highlanders when equipped in the cast off
uniform of our British array, of late years adopted by the Affghan govern-
ment as the clothing of their regular troops, (the prestige of the British
soldier having impressed the people generally with a wholesome awe of his
prowess) much resemble in outward appearance their noble superior, whom
they ape with such pains.

[ 209 ]

During tlie summer months, the rays of a fervent Indian sun in tliis regioa
are tempered by cool breezes from the adjacent snowy ranges : whilst the
rigors of the winter are braved in clothing of sheepskins, furs, and fabrics of
camels' and goats' hair, &c. The climate of this region, though lauded as the
finest in Affglianistan, has its sickly season however. This lasts from July to
October, and during this period the mortality from fevers and bowel-complaints
is described as very great. The people are predisposed to these diseases by
reason of the great and immoderate quantities of fruit all classes consume
during this season. In the winter months acute pulmonary affections prevail,
es[)ecially among the poor who are more exposed to the severities and vicis-
situdes of the weather. Pthisis and scrofula are common diseases, and
bronchocele and stone in the bladder are often met with, the former especially
among those inhabiting the slopes of the Sufed Koh.

Southern Affglianistan on the other hand presents in its general aspect, a
series of sterile elevated plains or steppes, traversed, mostly in a south-westerly
direction, by bare rocky ranges, the terminal prolongations of offslioots from
the Sufed Koh and Hazara mountains. The greater proportion of this tract
forms a good grazing country inhabited by several pastoral tribes of Alfghaus
(of which the Ghilzais are the most numerous) called from tlieir vagabond
liabits " /i;«c/ti," who with their families and llocks roam from place to place
in searcli of pasture. The towns and villages are for the nnjst part conlined
to the vicinity of tlie rivers that tlow thrjugh tliis part of the country.
These are the Ghazui river that flows into the lake Ab-istada, and tlie rivers
Tarnab and Argaudab which, uniting beyond Kandahar, afterwards join the
Halmand. These streams, with the exception of tlie last named, are almost
entirely absorbed during the summer months for purposes of irrigation as well
as by evaporation.

The climate of this portion of Affghanistan, viz.: from Ghnzni to Farrah,
is not very salubrious as evidenced by the physical appearance of its inha-
bitants, who suffer much from fevers, (chiefly tertian intermittents) and liepatic
affections and their sequelae, general and abdominal dropsies, enlarged spleen, &c.
This is more especially the case in the Halmand district, where the subjects
of these diseases may be counted, it is said, by the score in each village : skin
diseases chiefly of the herpetic class, and stone in the bladder, are common
diseases. There are other diseases of a diflerent class and owing their origiu
to the degraded and vicious habits of the Affghans, which here, as in other
parts of the country, are extremely common and need no further mention here.

The hot season in this region lasts from June to September. Severe in
itself it is rendered more trying by frequent dust storms, and a fiery west wind
that prevails during the period, whilst the bare rocky ridges that traverse the
2 E

I 210 ]

country, by absorbing the solar rays and again radiating them, cause the night
air to be close and oppressive. This circumstance has given rise to the here
universal custom of sleeping on the house-tops in tlie open air, which when the
heavy dews that fall at this season are considered, will account for the fre-
quency of rheumatic complaints and catarrhs. The autumn, winter and spring
months last from October to June. From September to November, the end
of summer and commencement of autumn, the sickly season prevails. During
tliese three months fevers and bowel complaints are verj^ rife and cause much
mortality. The winter, during which a cold biting easterly wind prevails,
varies in severity with the elevation of the country. Eigorous in the Ghazni
district, and diminishing in severity as the country falls, it is mildest at
Kandahar where snow falls in the plain only in severe seasons. The mountain-
ous network occupying the south-eastern portion of Affghanistan is described
by the natives as very healthy, except during the height of summer, when
fevers prevail. The south-western portion of the country is occupied by a
great sandy and almost uninhabited desert, over which during the summer
season, a deadly hot wind blows.

Productions . — Varied as is the surface of Affghanistan its natural produc-
tions, mineral, animal and vegetable, are equally so.

At the end of this paper I trust to be able to add an account of some of
the members of the last named kingdom met with in tl)is country, which
may serve in a slight degree as an illustration of its flora. In the mean-
while, a few words on the ordinary productions, natural and industrial, which
serve as articles of food of general use, or of commerce. And first of the
mineral kingdom. It is necessary, however, here to premise that the position
of this mission has been so secluded from all around ; information elicited by
enquiries has been so unwillingly given or altogether withheld ; and our actions
have been watched w'ith such suspicious vigilance, that, with a due regard to
the instructions of Government, a full or thorough investigation of the subject
has not been practicable. The following matter, however, has been obtained by
an examination of the bazars.

Mineral. — There is no doubt of the existence of abundant mineral wealth
in Aff"-hanistan, especially in its northern and eastern portions where igneous
rocks overlaid by secondary oolitic strata form its principal geological
features. But these hidden treasures are little profited by, owing as much to
the want of energy and skill in the people, as to the unsettled state of the
country. Iron, lead, copper, antimony and other metallic ores, sulphur and
several of the earthy alkaline and metallic salts, are iTiet with in greater or less
abundance in various parts of the country. Coal is found in Zurmat and
Surkhab and near Ghazni, on the surface of the ground. Its inflammable

[ 211 ]

properties are well known to the natives near whose abode it is found, and by
whom it is called " kira,''' but not used as fuel.

Iron exists in large quantity in the Parmali district ; whence Cabul re-
ceives its main supply.

There are no copper mines worked in this country. But I have seen
some specimens of the peacock variety of copper ore, said to have been found
on the surface of the ground in the Koh-i-Asmai, a few miles west of Cabul.
I was also told that, owing to the jealousy of the owner of the land in which
these fragments were found, the fact was kept as secret as possible. Native
sulphate of copper is said to be found in the Gul Koh, about forty miles west
by north of Ghazni. I was unable, however, to obtain any specimens.

Lead is found in several places in Affghanistan, though the greater portion
entering the country comes from Hazara, where it is described as being
gathered in many places on the surface of the ground. A vein of this metal
combined with antimony has lately been discovered at Kila IMullah Hazrat,
Ivoh-i-Patao, Argandab, about 32 miles north-west of Kelat-i-Ghilzi. The ore
is smelted in a large cauldron supplied with a horizontal lateral eliimney in which
the antimony sublimes, whilst the lead sinks to the bottom. A superficial mine
is also worked at Nekpai Kol, Koh-i-Wardak, about 21 miles north of Ghazni.

Antimony is obtained in considerable quantity at Shahmaksud, a hill about
30 miles north of Kandahar. The rock here is magnesia, combined with
silica, and in it are several quarries whence are obtained the chrysolite and
serpentery from which charms and rosaries are manufactured, as also soap
stone used by the natives in the place of soap.

Sulphur is found in small quantity at Herat. Here it is dug out of the soil
in small amber-like fragments the size of a pea or walnut. Such irregular
grains of sulphur are also often met with below the debris of the ruins of the
old city of Kandahar by those who delve its soil for manure. But here it is
more frequently met with in small dirty yellow cakes, much resembling clay,
but which on burning evolve abundant sulphureous vapours.

Kandahar receives its principal supply of sulphur from the Hazarah country,
and from Pir Kishri on the eastern confines of Siestan. In the district of Pfr
Kishri there is said to be an active volcano called by the natives " chaJi-i-
dudi'^ or smoking well, from which smoke and ashes are said to issue. My
informant was a drug-seller from whom I obtained some fragments of sulphur
and sal-amoniac fused together, as also fragments of pure fused sulphur, and
alum, which has evidently been subjected to the influence of great heat. On
enquiring the history of these articles, he said they were at intervals brought
to Kandahar for sale by the Beluchis from Pir Kishri about a month's journey
for camels in the direction of Beluchistan. The natives of this place, he said,
2 E 2

[ 212 ]

obtain these things by approaching the base and slopes of the " chali-i-diuW^
hill, armed with verj^ strong handled shovels, and clothed in felts as a protec-
tion from the hot ashes and sulphureous vapours which choked those who
approached too close, whilst with the shovels they scraped away the sulphur
and sal-amoniac from the surface. I could not engage a man to visit the spot
for specimens, owing to the general dread the Beluchis inspire in this part of
the country. The specimens above referred to, however, are herewith for-
warded.

Zinc, in the form of its silicate, called " zdlc^ by the natives, is met with
in the district of Zoba in the country of the Kakars. It is dug out from the
soil in earthy nodular fragments of a reddish yellow colour and arenaceous
structure easily divided by a knife. It is chiefly used by sword makers for
polishing new blades.

Nitre is abundant all over the south-western portions of this country,
where it frequently renders the waters of karezas undriukable ; it is generally
of excellent quality, and is, with little trouble, obtained in beautiful crystals
from three to four inches in length. The usual method of purifying the salt
is to boil its solution (the salt having previously been separated from the soil
by lixiviation) in water with the contents of several new eggs. This, as it
hardens, collects in its substance all foreign matter in suspension, and bears it
up to the surface. This scum is constantly removed, and the contents of
fresh eggs added to the solution till it becomes quite clear. The solution is
then evaporated at a slow heat for crystals to form. The nitre found in the
ruins of old cities is the most esteemed, and that produced at Herat is con-
sidered the best in this part of the world.

Vegetables. — Tlie cultivated vegetable products of Aflfghanistan are wheat,
barley, maize, millet, rice, pulses, peas, beans, carrots, turnips, cabbages,
onions, lettuces, cucumbers, melons, egg-fruits, tomata, beet-root, &c. and iu
some districts, as in Cabul, Jalalabad and Kandahar, potatoes (introduced by
the British) are raised.

The cultivation of oats is confined to the northern borders, but they are
often seen in the wild state in the corn fields in all parts of the country.
Madder and tobacco, both articles of export, cotton, opium, sessamum, mustard
and other special crops are raised in certain districts. Indian hemp (bang) is
grown around the towns and cities solely for its intoxicating properties. Clover
and lucerne are every where cultivated as fodder crops.

The fruits of Affghanistan, viz. : the apple, the pear, almond, peach, quince,
apricot, plum, cherry, pomegranate, grape, fig, mulberry, &c. each of which
lias many varieties, are produced in profuse abundance and of excellent quality
in all the well cultivated districts of the country. They form the principal food

[ 213 ]

of a large class of the people throughout the year both in the fresh and
preserved state, and in the latter condition are exported in great quantities.
The walnut, the pistacia (in the northern borders only) the edible pine, and
rhubarb, grow wild in the northern and eastern highlands, and with the excep-
tion of the last are also articles of export. The fruit of the mulberry in the
Cabul district is dried and packed in skins for winter use ; masses of this cake
are often reduced to powder and used for the same purposes as corn flour.

Of the uncultivated vegetable products, asafoetida is one of the chief. The
plant yielding this gum retain the naitJiex asafoetida, grows wild most plenti-
fully in the sandy and gravelly plains that form the western portion of the
country. It is never cultivated, but its peculiar product is collected in the
deserts where it grows, and is for the most part exported to Hindustan and
the Panjab, &c.

The asafoetida trade of western Affghanistan is almost entirely in the hands
of the Kakars, an Alfgliau tribe occupying the Bori valley and tlie hills iu
the vicinity of the Bolan. During the collecting season in April, May and
June, about four or five weeks after the new leaves have sprouted from the
perennial root, many hundreds of Kakars are scattered all over the country
from Kandahar up to Herat. The plant is met with in greatest abundance in
Anar-darrah and the Halmand districts; though found more or less in all parts
of the country. The gum resin is obtained in the following manner, and all
collected at Kandahar, whence it is carried into the Panjab, Sindh, &c.

The frail vaginated stem or the low cluster of sheathing leaves, the former
belonging to old plants and the latter to young ones, is removed at its junction
with the root, around which is dug a small trench about six inches wide and
as many deep. Three or four incisions are then made round the head of the
root, and fresh ones are repeated at intervals of three or four days ; the sap
continuing to exude for a week or fortnight according to the calibre of the
root. In all cases as soon as the incisions are made, the root head is covei-ed
over witi> a thick bundle of dried herbs or loose stones as a protection against
the sun ; where this is not done, the root withers in the first day and little or
no juice exudes. The quantity of asafoetida obtained from each root varies
from a few ounces to a couple of pounds' weight, according to the size of the
roots, some being no bigger than a carrot whilst others attain the thickness
of a man's leg. The quality of the gum differs much and it is always adul-
terated on the spot by the collectors, before it enters the market. The extent
of adulteration varies from one-fifth to one-third, and wheat or barley flour
or powdered gypsum are the usual adulterants. The best sort, however, which
is obtained solely from the node or leaf-bud in the centre of the root head of
the newly sprouting plant, is never adulterated, and sells at a much higher

[ 3H, ]

price than the other kinds. The price of the pure drug at Kandahar varies
from four to seven Indian Rs. per " man-i-Tahriz'^ (about 3 lbs.), and of the
inferior kinds from one and a half to three and a half Indian Rs. per " «?«?*."
The asafoetida is commonly used by the Muhammadan population of India
as a condiment in several of their dishes, and especially mixed with " dal."
It is not an article of general consumption in AfFghanistan, though often
prescribed as a warm remedy for cold diseases by the native physicians, who
also use it as a vermifuge. The fresh leaves of the plant, which have the
same peculiar stench as its secretion, when cooked are commonly used as an
article of diet by those near whose abodes it grows. And the white inner
part of the stem of the full grown plant, which reaches the statui'e of a man,
is considered a delicacy when roasted, and flavored with salt and butter.

Among the numerous other indigenous wild plants whose fruit, secretions,
or the entire herb, are used by the natives as domestic medicines, food, or for
other useful purposes, my space permits the mention of a few only.

Tlie wild rue and wormwood have already been mentioned, as also the orchis.
Several species of this genus are met with, and one (orchis onascula) yields
the dried tuber known as " salih misri ;" it is found only in certain spots in
the mountains. There are two sorts met with in the bazars, and both are
known by the same name ; one is imported from Russia and Persia, and the
other is the produce of the indigenous plant. The imported article is most
esteemed, the tubers being of larger size, proportionally heavier and of better
quality than the home root. As sold in the bazars, however, both kinds are
often found mixed with each other, and always with the dried bulbs of a
mountain squill. The camel's thorn (hedgsarmii alhagi) which abounds
throughout the country is said to yield a kind of manna, the " ^MrajyaiiV
of the bazars. At Kandahar I have watched many patches of camel's thorn
through the year, but never succeeded in finding any signs of exudation of
sap, or of the tears of manna. Those who sell the drug, however, sa}' that it
is only found in sandy wastes, where tlie plant grows in great patches often
mingled with the dwarf tamarisk, from which also manna is sometimes
obtained. Such sandy regions are also the habitats of a species of fly which
by piercing the bark for the deposition of its eggs is probably the cause of
the exudation of the manna. There are two kinds of manna met with, viz. :
" turanjabin and sirhliislit." The camel's thorn and perhaps the tamarisk are
the usual sources of the " turanjabin,^^ for as sold in the shops, its small round
grain or tears are mixed with the withered red papilionaceous flowers of the
camel's thorn together with its leaves and thorns, whilst the " sirkhishf which
is in large grains, irregular masses or flat cakes mixed with little black or
brown and rough fragments of broken twigs, is obtained from a tree that

[ 215 ]

grows in the highlands of Cabul, and is called by the natives " sidh cJioh"
(blackwood) which is probably from its description a fraxinvis or ornus.

In the eastern highlands are found many species of the jujube tree (zizyphus)
called by the natives ber and " anah.^'' They yield edible fruits, which in
the dried state are used as cooling adjuncts to purgative drafts, and as sharbats
in catarrh and bronchial affections. The larger variety of " anaV^ is culti-
vated as an orchard tree in many districts. Generall}' distributed are the
takhum (pistacia rahulica) and the khinjak (pistacia Ichinjalc). The fruit of
botli are eaten by the natives, and yields an oil used for burning and culinary
purposes. The khinjak yields quantities of a very terebinthinate gum or
mastic, called by the natives " mastak-i-kliinjalc,''' and which, as also the
dried fruit, are exported to the Panjub, Sindh, &c.

The mastic is used as a masticatory, and in various medicinal unguents and
plasters ; and the fruit, bruised, is used in sharbats, &c. as a warm stimulaut
and antispasmodic. The Achakzais, an Aflghan tribe inhabiting the Taba
mountains, where these trees are very plentiful, use the I'ruit (preserved in
skins and mixed with their resin) as an ordinary article of diet ; a favorite
combination being made with curds of milk and khinjak paste. The true
pista tree (pistacia orientalis), though occasional trees are met with, does not
grow in Atfghanistan. Tiie pista nuts enter the country from Tash-kargan.
Another tree yielding edible fruit is the "sanjit" of the Persians and the
*^ sauzilleh" of the Alfghans. (Ela'arjuns orientalis). It is found along the
banks of water-courses in most districts, but is more plentiful in the western
part of the country. The trees are remarkable for their silvery lepidote and
aromatic foliage. The fruit (onqie) is usually eaten boiled with rice in the
same manner as apricots, in the dried state, or else it is consumed fresh. A
tree known by the vernacular term " amlak'^ (of which I liave not succeeded
in obtaining the flower) yields a small berry about the size of a gooseberry.
There are besides several species of edible berries that grow wild in the hills ;
they are genei-ally classed under the comprehensive term " gurgura" by the
natives : two or three that 1 have seen belong to the gesner family of plants.
A great variety of wild herbs, such as plantains, fumitory, marjoram, basil,
borage, buglass, «&c., &c., &c. are used as medicines by the native phy-
sicians, and some of them, as the chicoiy or wild endive, are cultivated for
this purpose. Mushrooms in gi'eat variety and other fungi may be here
mentioned, as being gathered as food in most parts of the country. They
are known by the Affghan and Persian terms " AVmrere" and " samarogh,'''
and constitute a considerable portion of the food of some classes of the
peasantry, the nomads, and especially of the Hindu population of towns, &c.
to whom they supply the place of meat.

[ 216 ]

Animals. — The ordinary domestic animals such as the horse, the camel, the
cow, and occasionally the buffalo, the sheep, the goat, &c. constitute the
main wealth of the major portion of the inhabitants of Affghanistau,

Horses form one of the staple exports of the country. The indigenous
species is the " ^abu,^' or baggage pony; a hardy, active and stout animal
of about fourteen hands, used mainly as a beast of burden, though also for
riding. They supply also the remounts for a considerable portion of the
Affglian Irregular Cavalry and Artillery. The breed of horses known in
India as Cabul horses are principally from Maimanna and Mashad, whilst
those bred in the country are out of the mares of the country by Persian
horses, or rather a mixed breed between the inferior varieties of the Turkoman
horse, the Persian and Cabul horses indiscriminately.

The breed of horses in Affghanistau is said to have improved greatly since
the acquaintance of the Affghans with the British. The present ruler Amir
Dost Muhammad Khan has taken considerable pains to diffuse Arab blood
throughout his territories, and has now several extensive breeding establish-
ments in which the horses as well as many of the mares are picked specimens
of the Arab, Persian, and Turkoman breeds. (This last is said to have a
large share of Arab blood first introduced by the Arabs, when they overran
this country in the early part of the eighth century, and since maintained
by careful breeding.) The offspring of these, the Amir divides among his
chiefs and adherents, thus insuring their distribution throughout the country.
Too great a proportion, however, are speedily worn out or rendered unsound
by overwork at a tender age, the usual custom being to work colts at sixteen
or eighteen months of age. Spavin and splints &c. are the most prevalent
consequent diseases. The country horse or "^a&w," the camel, and mules, are
the great means by which the entire transit trade of the country is carried on,
carts being unknown in, and unsuitable to, the country.

Oxen, though generally usued for agricultural purposes, in the plough, and
for treading out the corn (which they do unmuzzled) &c. are also used as
beasts of burden.

The cow, and in some places the buffalo, are kept for the milk they yield. The
former are usually of a small breed, but those of Kandahar are of a better
kind, and more resemble the English animal both in size and tlie quality of
the milk they yield. Milk and its components in their separate states form
an important portion of the diet of the Affghans, especially of the peasantry
and those who lead a nomadic life. After the separation of the fatty portion
of tlie milk in the form of butter, which is consumed fresh as " maska'^ or
boiled for keeping as " gJii,'" the remaining butter-milk is either consumed in
the fresh state (in which form it is considered a very noujishing and strength-

Jl

[ 217 ]

cning diet, with a slight narcotic action when not followed h}' exercise) oris set
aside to allow the curds to form. This happens as soon as the fluid becomes
acid, which occurs spontaneously after standing 10 or 12 hours. Sometimes
the congelation is hurried by the addition of a few drops of the milky sap of the
lig tree, which is collected and dried for this puri)0se ; and this or the " panir
had,^' the dried fruit of a solanaceous plant (Paiireria coiiguhiris) is also used
to congthite milk in the preparation of cheese. On the formation of the
curds, the clear supernatant whey is {)Oured olF, and the curds deprived of
nearly all their water by firm pressure in a cloth. To this, a little salt is
added, and then handfuls of tlie mass are shaped into small cakes about the
size of a hen's Q^'^. These are dried in the sun, and soon become as hard as a
stone and keep lor any time. Tiiev consist of nearly pure casein, and are
called " kuri" by the Allghans. Wlien required for use, several of these cakes
are steeped in hot water, and when soft are reduced to a paste in a wooden
bowl (" hrut mal") and thus eaten with breail, meat or vegetables, fust a
quantity of boiling " ghV^ being poured over the mixture, which though very
sour, astringent and greasy, is eaten with great relish by AiTghans, with whom
it is a national dish. For this [)eculiarity of taste, they are ridiculed by their
more refined Per.sian neighbours, who for the special behoof of the AUghans,
have parodied the usual Arabic phrase expressive of surprise into " La honla
tea Id ilJc'ih hrutit khitri.^'' Butter is made by shaking the milk backwards and
forwards in a suspended leathern bag or " manuk.'^ in thrifty families the
women fasten the " inasak'^ across the shoulders when grinding the corn, the
to and fro action caused by which at the same time churns the milk.

The shee}), which is entirely the fat-tailed variety, is of two kinds, that
graze in separate flocks. The one always has a white fleece, which is manu-
factured into various home-made stuff's, and is also exported of late years to a
considerable extent. The other kind has a russet brown or black wool, these
are called ^os<e« sheep, their skins being made xnio post ins, whilst their wool,
the produce of the shearing season, is used in the manu(acture of felts of
various kinds and other fabrics. Tlie sheep is a source of considerable profit
and constitutes the main wealth of the nomad population; who use tin'ir
milk as also that of the goat and camel for the same purposes as that of the
cow and buffalo. Their flesh forms the main animal food of the Alf'ghans,
who are great meat-eaters when they can aff'ord it, and prefer mutton to all
other meats. The produce of the shearing season finds its way via Bombay
and Karachi to Bradford, &c. whence it is returned in a considerably altered form
as broad-cloths and other woollens. A portion of the wool which is exported
to Persia (ghain and biojan) re-enters the country as Persian carpets, khur-
jines, fells, &c. During the autumn months, large numbers of sheep are
2 i'

[ 218 ]

slaughtered tliroughout tlie country : their earciises, cut into convenient sizes,
are rubbed with salt, dried in the sun, and stored by for winter use, the people
during this season moving little out of their houses. The meat thus prepared
is called by the natives Idnde. Cut in slices and fried with eggs, it tastes not
unlike salt pork or bacon ! oxen and camels also are slaughtered at the same
season, and their flesh preserved in a similar manner. And frequently an old
horse who is not likely to weather the winter, shares the same fate, the AfFghan
peasant considering all meat nourisliing so long as it is not forbidden by law.

Many of the wild animals of Affghanistan are hunted or trapped for tlie
sake of their furs, wliich are sometimes made up into clothing in the country
or are exported to Russia. Of these the more common are the wolf and fox,
met witli in all parts of the country. The other (sagulah) found in most of
the rivers. The jebra (mash-i-dopa) found in the Ghazni, Cabul, and
Jalalabad districts. The squirrel (mash-i-parran) found in the Kohistan of
Cabul. A tortoise-shell ferret (mash-i-klior mar) found at Kandahar. This
animwl is often domesticated to keep vermin out of houses. A species of
ha.(]ger (f/orkao or gorkan) found in grave 3'ards, more commonl}'^ at Cabul.
A small leopard (ziiz.) found in all pai-ts of the countr}^, but in greatest
abundance in a sandy district south-west of Kandahar. Its skin is used as a
covering for saddles, &c.. The Persian lynx (siah gosh) is found at Kandahar
and other ])arts of western Aifghanistan, where, also the wild iiss (ffora khar.)
antelo[)es, and wild bears abound. The hills contain the ibex, the wild goat,
in the eastern part, the wild sheep, the " bara singha," bears, &c. and occasionally
the tiger is met with. Porcujiines and hedgehogs are common, as also in
some parts, as in the Kohistan-i-Cabul, the '''■ doracja^'' a hybrid between a male
wolf and the female of the wild dog.

In the desert sandy waste south of Kandahar abounds a sort of li/ard, or
snake, called " reg-maliV by the natives by whom also they are consideied a
very invigorating remedy in nervous debility and allied conqjlaiuts. They
are dried and exported, and being highly esteemed, sell at a high price viz.:
from one to three Rupees a piece at Kandahar.

Industrial. — The industrial productions of Aifghanistan (exclusive of the
produce of agricultural and agri-horticultural labour, such as madder, tobacco,
the various cultivated grains and fruits, &c. which, together with horses, some
silk, furs and, of lale years, sheep's wool, constitute the staple export trade
of the country) consist of various warm fabrics suited to the climate, and of
articles of domestic and general use in the country.

Of the first three there are three principal kinds viz. 1. harrak manufactured
from the wool of the harra or postin sheep, which is of a reddish brown
colour and used exclusively in the manufacture of barraks and felts. Some

[ 219 ]

biirraks are woven from the wool of the white sheep ; this, however, is princi-
pally used in tlie manufacture of pashmina shawls, white felts, &e. At
Kandahar (the villages around) a sort of white blanked felt, called kJiosai, is
made from this wool, and made up into winter cloaks (khosai chogah) which
are water-proof and very warm.

2. Shuhiri. — This cloth is manufactured from the woolly down and hair of
of tlie balkt or bactrian camel.

3. Kurk is woven from the soft wool that grows at tlie roots of the hair
of the goat.

Of each of these fiibrics there are many varieties, differing in the fineness
of texture and material, and consequently in price, which ranges from -i or
5 ilupees to 50 or 60 Kupees for a piece seven or eight yards lung by one
yard broad, or sufficient to make a native cloak or " chorjuh.''' None of these
fabrics are ever dyed, but they always have their natural culour, which varies
from white to high grey, reddish grey, brown and dark brown.

Silk is produced in more or less quantity in Cabiil, Jalalabad, Kandahar,
Herat, &c, and is lor the most part consumed in the manufacture of home-
made stuffs, though the best sorts are exported to the Panjab and Bombay.

Cotton is cultivated iu some districts, but the supply is small and used in
the manufacture of coarse native cloths, lungis, &c.

Among the. articles of general and domestic use may be reckoned the produce
of the various handicraft trades usually [)ursucd in cities, which here need no
further mention than that they are in a very depressed state.

In the same category of domestic articles may be included the Affghan
rifle or jazail, and the charah or Aftghan knife, the possession of one or both
being considered indispensable by every household in the country. They are
manufactured not only in the tjwns and cities, but also in the villages, and are
often turned out with very superior finish and workmanship, and are often
damasccened. Tim Jazail carries with remarkable accuracy up to three hundred
yards, but from its length and weight is always fired from a rest, which
consists of a long iron prong attached by a binge to the woodwork of the
barrel about a foot from its muzzle. Some jazails are supplied with a very
long and permanently fixed baj'onet. The charah or Affghan knife, a weapon
peculiar to these people, (though used to some little extent by the Persians,
just as the Affghans use the Persian dagger or '^ pesh-kahz") is, in hands that
know how to use it, a formidable one in close quarter fighting among them-
selves. The blade is usually two feet in length, and tapers from its short
handle where the blade is about two and a half inches in depth to a fine
point. The edge is always kept as sharp as a razor, and from it the blade
gradually thickens to the back which forms a broad rib of steel. The
2 F 2

[ 2-20 ]

'' charaW'' is never used with a tlirust, Imt always with a straight blow usually
dealt at the head or outer surface of the limbs, aud in this case as the
imi)ortant nerves and vessels run along the inner surface, the wound is more
frightful in appearance than really dangerous. The Persian dagger on the
contrary is only used with a thrust, usually dealt at the chest or abdomen, and
is therefore more dangerous and likely to be fatal in its effects.

Origin of the AJfghans. — The Affghans call themselves " Ban-i-Israil " or
children of Israel, and claim descent in a direct line from Saul, the Benjamite
king of Israel. They adduce, however, no authentic evidence in support of
their claim, which it may be here mentioned is not an exclusive one, since they
admit all other Muhammadans, Jews and Christians to be children of Israel,
excluding only idol worshippers and the heathen. All the records of the
Affghans (and they are mostly traditionary) on the subject of their origin and
descent are extremely vngue and incongruous, without dates and abounding
in fabulous and distorted accounts of the deliverance of the Israelites from
•Egypt under Moses, of the ark of the covenant (Tdhut-i-sakina) of their
fights with the Amalakites, Philistines, &c. aud they are moreover so mixed up
with Muliammadanism as to give the whole the appearance of fiction or
uncertainty. As an exami)le the following accounts of the Ark of the cove-
nant are taken iroin one of their histories of the doings of the Israelites in
Palestine.

"The ' tahut-i-sakinn,^ the oracle of the ' Jja?ii-IsrdiV is described by
some as a coiKn oi ' shamsJiad' wood, in which were figured the forms of all
the prophets of God, Its length was three ' arsh'' (cubits) and the breadtli
of two ' a^'^/i.' It was given by God to Adam in paradise, and Adam at his
death bequeathed it to his son ' Sish^ (iSeth) and so on, it was handed down
to Moses.

"Ibni-Abbas says it was an image in the form of a cat. It had ahead
and a tail, and each eye was like a torch, aud its forelu^ad was of emeralds,
and no one had power to look on it. In the time of battle it travelled like
the wind, overpowered its enemies, and when Ban-ilsrdil heard its soniul,
they knew that victory was on their side. On the day of battle they placed
it before them and when the oracle advanced, they advanced, and when it
stood still Ban-i-Israil also stood still.

" Habb-bin-Mania says that it was an order from the will of God th:it
spake words, and that whatever difficulty arose before any of the Baii-i-Isrdil,
they represented the circumstance before the oracle and waited a reply to
guide their actions. According to the statement of Ibn-i-Atta, taken from tlie
Koran it was two tables of the Mosaic Law, tlie staff of Moses, and the turban,
shoes and staff of Aaron, contained in a coffin."

[ 221 ]

The following account of the origin of the Affghans is compiled from a
careful perusal of several (seven) Atfghan histories on this subject, kimlly lent
me by the heir-apparent Sirdar Gholam Hjdar Klian. The:;e books date
from 70 to 252 years ago, and profess to give the true origin of the Atfghan
people and the cause of their settlement in the country that now bears their
name ; and are, it is almost needless to say, implicitly and reverently believed
by the Affghans themselves.

Sdriil or Saul they say, who on becoming king of Israel was called Malik
TiodUt on account of his height, had two sons, viz. Baralchia or Baracliait,
and Irajnia or Jeremiah.

Both were born in the same hour, after the death of their father (wlio
togetlier with ten other sons, were killed fighting with tlie Mlidin) and of
different mothers, both of wliom were of the tribe of Zw/f/ (Levi) and lived
under the protection of Daiid (David) Sariill's successor. IJarakhia and Iraniia
rose to exalted positions under the government of Daud. The former prime-
minister and the latter Commander-in-Chief of the army. Barakhia had a sou
named " Assaf^ and Iramia had a fon named AJghanna. These, after the
death of their father, filled tlie same exalted positions under the government of
/SwZeiWJOTi (Soloman) that their fathers did during the reign of Daiid. Assaf
had eighteen sons, and Algliannahad forty sons. Afghanna under the directions
of Suleman superintended the building of the Bait-ul-Mukaddas (tem|i]e of
Jerusalem) whieli Daud had commenced. At the death of Suleiman the
families of Assaf and Afglianna were amongst tlie cliiefest of the Israelites and
greatly increased after the deaths of Assaf and Alghanna.

At the time that " Baitul- Mukaddas'^ was carried into captivity by
" lihuka-nnasr^^ (Nebuchadnezzar) the tribe of Afghanna adhered to the
religion of their forefathers, and on account of the obstinacy with which they
resisted the idolatrous faith of their conquerors, were, after the nuissacie of
many thou.<ands of Israelites, for this reason, banished from Sham (Palestine)
hy ordtn- o( '^ J3Ituka-n-)iasr.'" After this, they took refuge in tlie mountains
of " Ghor'' and the "Koh-i-Ferosah." Here they were called by the neigh-
bouring people AJjyJidn and Ban-i-Isrdil. In these mountains they multiplied
and increased greatly, and after a protracted period of fighting, at length
subdued the original inhabitants and became possessors of the country and
gradually extended their borders towards the Kohistan-i-Cabul, Kandahar and
Gliazni.

At this time, and till the a[)i)earaiice of Muhammad, this people, the Affghans,
were readers of the Peutiiteueh and observed the ordinances of the Mosaic
law. In the ninth year alter Muhammad announced himself as the pro-
phet of God, and more than 1500 years after the time of Solomon (this

[ 222 ]

liistorj dates upwards of a century ago) one " Klialkl bin Waller^ an inha-
bitant of Arabia and an Israelite, and one of the earliest disciples of the new
prophet, sent and informed the AfFghans of the advent of tlie " last prophet of
the times," and exhorted them to accept his doctrine. (KJialidhin-WaUd is
claimed by the Arabs as of their own people, WaliiVs maternal grandfather
" Abd-ul's7iams" being a rich man and a cliief of the famous tribe oi' Koresh,
wliilst others assert that he was an Arab by his father's side, his mother only
being an Israelitisli woman). The Affghans on the receipt of Xhalid's letter
held a conference of their elders and deputed one " Xais or KaisW^ together
with several other chiefs and learned men among them to Khalid at Medina.
These, on tlieir arrival there embraced the new faith on Klialid's exposition,
and with him vigorously aided the prophet in diffusing his doctrines by slaying
all its opposers, Kais and his companions ia the height of their religious
zeal are said to have slain seventy unbelieving Koreshites in one day. And
on being presented before the prophet, he treated them with distinction and
enquiring their names and finding them all Hebrew ones, the prophet as a
mark of his favour changed them for Arabic ones, and promised them that the
title malik (Icing) wliich had been bestowed on their great ancestor Suriil by
God, should never depart from them, but that their chiefs should be called
MaliJcs till the last day. And for the name Xais, the prophet substituted
Ahdur-rasliid whom afterwards on his departure for his own countiy he
surnanied Filitan or Pahtan or Bitan or Batan (which in the language of
Syrian seamen is said to signify a rudder), at the same time drawing an apt
simile between his now altered position, as the pilot of his people in the new
faith, and that part of the ship that steers it in the way it should go. This
term has been corrui)ted by the lapse of time into " Batlian" and has been
adopted by the Alfghans or rather the descendants of Kais as their national
title, and is the appellation by which they are known in Hindustan. The real
national name of this people is Pulchtan individually and Pukhtana collectively.
Tliis word is described as of Hebrew, some say Syrian, derivation, and signifies
"delivered," '"set Iree." The terms Pukhtan and Affglian are quite foreign
to many tribes inhabiting the country, but all three, viz., Pukhtan and Pathan
and Afighan, are properly applicable only to the descendunts of Kais.

Tlie genealogy of Kais is traced by thirty-seven generations to Malik Twalut
or Sarul, by forty-five to Ibrahim and by sixty-three to Adam. The writer of
the Majmu ^ul insah or " collection of genealogies" (this book is referred to
by all authors of Affghan history, but is, as far as I can learn, an extinct, if
not an imaginary work) traces the lineage of Kais thus, — 1, Kais was the son
of 2 ; 'Ais the son of 3 ; Salal the son of 4 ; 'Abta son of 5 ; N'aim son of 6 ;
Marah son of 7 ; Jaudar son of S ; Iskandar son of 9 ; Ifania son of 10 ;

[ 223 ]

A mill son of 11; Malilol son of 12; Slialam son of 13 ; Salafc son of 14;
Quariid son of 15; 'Azim son of 16; Fahlol son of 17 ; Karam son of 18;
Mahal son of 19 ; Kliadifa son of 20 ; Maubul son of 21 ; Kais son of 22 ;
'Alum son of 23 ; Islionuil son of 2-i ; Harun son of 25 ; Kanirod son of 20 ;
Alalii son of 27 ; Salinab son of 28 ; Twalal son of 29 ; Lawi son of 30 ;
'Anal son of 31; Tarij son of 32; Arzand son of 33; Maudol son of 3i ;
Ma:^alira son of 35 ; AfFgliana son of 36 ; Iiaraia son of 37 ; Sariil son of 38,
Kaisli son of 39 ; iMalialab son of 40: Aklnioj son of 41 ; Sarogb, son of 42 ;
Yahuda son of 43; Yakiib (Israil) son of 44; Iskbak son of 45 ; Ibrahim son
of 46 ; 'J arij Azliar son of 47 ; Nakhor son of 48 ; Sarogb son of 49 ; Sarogh
son of 50 ; Hiid son of 51 ; 'Abir son of 52 ; Salakh son of 53 ; Afraklishad
son of 54 ; Sam son of 55 ; Nob son of 56 ; Nalang son of 57 ; Matosliakh
son of 58 ; Joris son of 59 ; Yazd son of 60 ; Matalail son of 61 ; Anos son
of 62 ; Shish son of 63, Adam.

Kais is said to have married a daugliter of Kbalid, and by whom be had
three sons in Ghor, viz. : Saraban, Batan, and Gharghasht. He dii'd at
eigbty-suven years of age in 41 H. (662 A. D.) in Ghor. Ficm the above-
named three sons of Kais, the whole of the present existing tribes of Aflghan-
istaii trace their immediate descent. But strangely enough the Ati'gban
historians make no mention of the rest of the " Ban-i-Israil" contemporaries
of Kais, treating them as if they liad never existed. In one book I have seen
written by Mullah Akhtar in 1163 H. (1741, A. D.) it is stated that picviuus
to the time of Kais, Balo, whose ull'spring are called Baluch, Uzbak, and
AB'ghan were brethren ! The descendants of Saraban, Batan and Gharghasht,
represented respectively in the present day by the Durranis, Ghilzais, and
Kakars, are traced into almost an iutinity of branches in the genealogical tree,
many of which have become decayed and extinct, whilst on the other hand
the number is kept up by the continual production of new ones which spread
out into an intricate network of tribes, clans, families and houses. Some of
tliese are appended in a tabular form at the end of this paper.

The offspring of Kbalid bin Walid who was an Israelite, and of the same
lineage as Kais, are settled in the neighbourhood of Baghdad in the country
of Diarbakar (Mesopotamia) and are called Khalidi Aff'ghans or simply Kha-
lidis. And a portion of them who are settled in Afi'gbanistan are known as
Bargakh or Bangash.

Without considering the foregoing imperfect and doubtful data, which with
hundreds of like traditions, are handed down for the most part orally from
generation to generation, and stored by every village priest in the country,
tliere are several cogent reasons for believing this people to be of Israelitish
origin.

[ 224 ]

Tlie striking pliysiognomic resemblance of the Aifghans to the Jews, whom
though they recognize as brethren, and the lineage of Kais their ancestor
being traced through Judah, tliey despise on account of their hardened
infidelity, and regard their name as one of reproach, tlie law of equity, that
is blood for blood, &c. ; a man marrying his deceased brother's wife ; the
inheritance of land and its division by lots ; the settlement of important
matters or disputes by a reference to the elders of a village or tribe ; the
offering of sacrifices and the sprinkling the blood upon the lintel and side
posts of the doors of the house in order to avert pestilence or impending
calamity from its inmates, (typical of the Passover), and for similar reasons the
ceremonial tran.-ference of tlie sins of the community to the head of an heilc'r,
slieep, or goat, and after leading it througli and round the village or camp,
slaughtering it beyond its limits, or, as is sometimes done, driving it into the
wilderness (typical of the scape goat), the giving service for a specified time
in order to claim a wife, as did Jacob of old, &c , these and many other similar
customs all tend to substantiate the claim of the Aff'ghans to an Israelitisli
orio'in. In connection with this subject, may be mentioned a remarkable trait
in the AfMian character, equally participated in by the Muhammadan inha-
bitants generally, and one very much resembling the continually denounced
and obstinately persevered in, sin of the Israelites of old. This is tluir
superstitious veneration of " zidrafs^' or holy shrines. These are almost
innumerable and occupy every hill top in inhabited districts, and are also
abundant in the highways and byeways, where they are usually surrounded
by a clump of trees. May not these be considered analogous to the "high
places," and groves so frequently mentioned in the Scripture history of tl:e
Israelites? As an instance of their frequency, I may mention that the city
of Ghazni and its environs (and which from this circumstance is considered a
peculiarly holy place) contains one hundred and ninety-nine of these shrines
of greater or less sanctity. Each is kept in order by a Fakir or Mullah, and
has its own history of the holiness and miraculous powers of the, in many
instances, fictitious dead, whose memory it commemorates, whilst the history
itsell', if not entirely fabulous, is owing to the wily policy of the priesthood.
The fear and reverence with which these ziarats are regarded by the mass of
the people of this country is really astonishing, and much greater I believe
than in other IMuhammadan countries, and they seem to hold a higher place
in their estimation than, in practice at least, the Koran or the leading precepts
inculcated by it. The most careless of Musalmans, understood in its litci-al
sense, that is an observer of the pi'ccepts of Muhammad, with however light a
conscience he may omit his prayers and other religious ordinances, &c. would
on no account leave a place he was sojourning in, without visiting its more

[ 225 ]

favorite or fashionable ziarats and paying his respects to the saints whose
memories they commemorate. To visit all tlie chief ziarats in the country is
considered a meritorious reUgious duty, second only to the pilgrimage to
Mecca. The ziarat is not only visited as a religious duty, but is resorted to
by the subjects of disease, by those who liave matters of importance in hand,
and by those who have been overtaken by misfortune. Tlie mediation of the
defunct saint is besought on behalf of the sick, whilst for the remainder liis
blessing is believed to ensure success in the one instance and alleviation in
the other.

How the Atfghans cnme into the country they now occupy, seems to be
involved in mystery, tliougli, on considering the subject, no insuperable objec-
tions to the practicability of their transportation from Palestine to Afghan-
istan present themselves.

The Affghans, according to their own account, after expulsion from Sham by
order of" Buktu-n-nisr" settled in the Kohistan-i-Gor and the Koh-i-Ferozah.
This last, it appears, is a range of mountains extending along the northern
border of the Hazarah country, and connecting the eastern ])ri)loiigations
of the Aburz range of Persia with the western spurs of the Hindu Kush.
Though how or when they don't know. Probably their emigration to these
parts was the work of time, and was gradually performed. We know by the
2nd Kings, cliap. 17, verse 0, that " In the 9th year of Hosea, the King of
Assyria took Samaria and carried Israel away into Assyria, and placed them
in Halah and Habor, and by the river of Gozan and in the cities of tiie Medes."
This occurred under Shalmaneser, King of Assyria, about 722 B. C. Two
years previous to this, Tiglath Pileser took Gilead and Galilee and all the land
of Naphthali and carried the Israelites into Assyria. And subsequently
about 587 B. C. after a long series of adversities, previously foretold, the
Jewish nation was destroyed, and the Jews carried in captivity to Babylon by
Nebuchadnezzar. In 53G B. 0. Cyrus issued his famous edict liberating the
Jews and all Israelites. During the long period of IS8 years that elapsed
from the first carrying away the Israelities by Tiglath Pileser to their final
restoration by Cyrus, it may be fairly assumed that they became distributed
throughout the Medo-Persian Empire, at least throughout its populous
part. Indeed we know by Esther chap. 3, verse 8 and chap. 8, verse 9 that
the Jews were scattered throughout the provinces of the Medo-Persian
empire from India to Ethiopia. Now it is not impossible that after Cyrus
issued his edict liberating the Israelites, many of them instead of availing
themselves of their emancipation to return to Jerusalara or Palestine, seized
the op[>ortunity, through dread of future adversities, to escape from tlio
degraded treatment they had so long en>.lured at the hands of their cuuijuerors,
2 G

[ 2'>r, ]

or else they were forced by subsequent dynastic and political changes occurring
in the Medo-Persian empire, to collect together for their own protection
from the persecution that met them on every hand, and in either case under
such circumstances a difficult mountain country would naturally be chosen
as a place of refuge and retreat. I may here digress to mention that
the custom of casting the " pur" or " lot" referred to in the text above
quoted is still in common practice among the Affghans under the names of
" P'ura" " Piiiclia''' in different districts. The Affghans also have a tradition
that tlie Kliaibar was at one time inhabited by the Jews, And tliis is
referred to in the following ci'eed and denunciation of the Sunis against all
heretics. It runs thus :

" Saram Khak-i-rah-i-har chahar Sarwar Abubakr, ' Umr,' Osmjin wa
Haidar.

" Abubakr yar-i-ghar,

" 'Umr Mir-i-durradar.

*' 'Osman Shah Sow^r.

" 'Wa 'Ali Path lashkar ast.

" Har ki az in chahr yakira khailaf diiuk kamtar(n-i-khars wa kliuk wa
" Jahu(lan-i-khaibar ast."

Which literally translated runs thus:

" My head is the dust of the road of the four lords, Abubakr, 'Urns,
'Osman and Haidar.

" Abubakr, the friend of the cave.

" 'Umr, lord of peail possessois.

" 'Osman is a royal knight and

" 'Ali (Haidar) is a conquering army.

" Whoever denies one of these four is least of the bear, the hog and the
" Jew of the Khaibar."

To return from this digression from the Aflghan account. The Affghans
continued to occupy the Kohistau-i-ghor till the time that the Ghoride dynasty
succeeded that of Sebuktagin the Tartar chief on the throne of Ghazni about
573 H. (1170 A. D.) And although many of them accompanied Muhammad
Ghaznavi in 1011 A. B. on his victorious march to Delhi and Somnath, and
remained behind in Hindustan, thus laying the foundations of the colonies of
Pathans that were afterwards established there, the Affghans did not then
occupy Affghanistan as they do now. It was during the reign of Shahab-ud-
din a Ghoride sovereign and by his orders, that the provinces around Ghazni viz.
Kandahar, Cabiil, Bajawar, Swat, 'Ashnaghar, Koh-i-Suleiman and the country
as far as Bakkar and Multan were colonized by Affghans, who, for this purpose
were brought with their families and flocks, &c. from the Kohistau-i-Ghor.

[ 227 ]

And the first spot colonized by them is said to be the Koh-i-Kassi or Kassi
Ghor. (Persian and Pukshta) a spur of the Taiiht-i-Suleiiuau range. The
country occupied by the provinces above mentioned, that is extending from
Eajawar on the north to Bakkar on the south, and from Kandaliar on the
west to the Indus on the east, was called " Saicah" or " Eoli,''^ that is
Highlands and its inhabitants " Bohilla'' or Highlanders.

The Yusufzai Affghans on being questioned as to whence they originally
came, always mention " Ghivara Marghd"^ which they say is in Khorassan.
This latter term applies to two different countries, viz. to the Persian province
of that name, and also to all tlie country lying between Persia and the Bolau
in one direction, and Bukhara and Beluchistau in the other. I have not met
with the name " Ghwara Murglid" in any book describing the origin of tlie
Affghans that 1 have been able to peruse, but learn that there is a district of
this name extending from near Mukur to Kilat-i-Ghilzai, south of and paral-
lel to the valley of the Tarnak. The name " Ghicara Mnrgha'^ is said to be
descriptive of tlie country to which it is applied, viz. that it is a good grazing
country. In Pukhshtan ghwara means good, nourishing, &c. and murglia is
tlie name of a grass well suited for pasturing.

There are many tribes in Affghaiiistan, exclusive of the Kazzalbashies, Turks,
and Tajiks, wliose register not being found in tlie genealogy of the Affghans,
excluded by them from the right to the titles Ban-i-Isiail, Affghan or Pukhtun*
though from having adopted their language, the PuUhshtu, and to some
extent their customs, tiiey have been admitted into the nomenclature of tribes
known as Pathan in common with Affghans, to whom alone the title is properly
applicable. The origin of these tribes is very obscure. But the Affghan
historians with a happy knack for invention, account for them all by special
legends. For instance according to them at some indefinite period past, two
men of the " Ormur" tribe went out in search of game. The tribe " Ormur" are
described as having been fire-worshippers, and received their name from this
custom. Once a week they congregated for worship, men and women indis-
criminately. At the conclusion of the ceremony the priest extinguisiiiiig the
fire called out Onnur. (In Pukshtii or means " fire" and mur "dead.") At
this signal, each man seized the woman nearest him, and whoever she was she
became his wife till the next meeting, when chance changed the lot. The
two men who went out in search of game were named Ahd-ullah and Zakaria.
As they proceeded they came upon the late encamping ground of an army.
Here the former found a Karahi (the Pukshtu term for an iron cooking pot)
and the latter a little boy, who had been left behind by the unknown army.
Zakaria had many children but Abdullah had none, and they accordingly-
agreed to change their recent acquisitions. Abdullub adopted the child as his
2 G 2

[ 238 ]

son, and from tlie ennoxis occurrence attending his possession of liim named
him Karrhe, and in due time found him a wife from his own tribe. The de-
scendants of this Karrhe are called Karrhe Karani or Karaldm't, and are divided
into several tribes, each of which is in turn subdivided into numerous Kheh
and Zais. Tlie chief tribe, included under the name Karrhe are " OrakzaV
Afridi, 3£angal, KhattaJc, and Khagydnl from which last sprung the tribes
Zuzi, Tori, Pari and Kharhaure. The Waziiis are also sometimes included
among the Karrhes, and the Dalazaks though generally described as the
original (Hindu) inhabitants of the eastern portion of the country are
sometimes classed with tlie Karrhes.

The tribes Ashtardni or Staruni, Mashioani or Masliuni, JIanni, and
Wardah are described as of Aral) descenb, their ancestor Syad Muhammad
surnamed Oesii, dardz from his long ringlets, being a lineal descendant by
eleven generations of the Kalif AH. All these are to be found in Afghanistan
except the Hannis who at an early period emigrated to Hindustan.

The genealogical tables of the Affghans, that is the lineal descendants of Kais,
though they all agree in the main particulars are frequently at variance in the
particulars regarding the smaller subdivisions and verifications of the different
tribes. The}^ all agree, however, with regard to the origin of their finest tribe,
the pride of the nation, the Ghllzuis. These are by their own accounts and
as their name implies a misbegotten people, the descendants of an illegitimate
son of a Ghoride Prince. Their acciuuit runs thus. At the time the Arabs
conquei'ed Persia and Khorassan, (about the close of the itrst century of the
Muliammadan era) and entered the territory of Ghor, Shah Hussain a youthful
prince of that country and an ancestor of the Ghorides, Sliab-ud-din and
Mahmiid, fled from his own country and sought refuge in the mountains
skirting Ghor. Here he found an a«ylura under the roof of Batan the second
son of Kais, and at whose hands he received all hospitality, which he repaid by
seducing his host's daughter Bibi IMattu.. The parents in order to avoid the
disgrace that was predicted precipitated a formal marriage between the couple.
The son that was shortly after born was named " Ghalzoe" from the attendant
circumstances. In Pukshtu '■'■ ghaV means a thief and" zoe" a son. Mattii boi'e
Shah Hussain a second son named liiraliim, who was surnamed " Zoe" great.
This term became corrupted into " iof?i" and was adopted by the elder branch of
Ibrahim's descendants, who supplied many of the kings of the Pathan dynasty at
Delhi. The rest were from the tribe of Sur another branch of Ibrahim's offspring.
By a second wife named 'Bihi Maid, Shah Hussain had a third son Sarwani. But
Shah Hussain not being an Affghan, his offspring took the name of their res[)ec-
tive mothers. Thus the tribe springing from Bibi Mattu's offspring were called
Mahizai and those from Mattu's were called Mattazai. In the course of time,
however, this fell into disuse, and all were included under the term Ghalzai.

[ 229 ]

Eepokt of the Kandahar CnAniTABLE Dispensaky.

Introduction. — On the arrival of the Mission at Kandahar, in accordance
with the instructions of Government, I proposed to establish a charitable dis-
pensary in the city. The |>roposition was at first received with much suspicion
and evident distrust, and the crowds of applicants for medicine and advice of
both sexes and all ages who daily besieged the gate of the residency were
warned off by the sentriv^s in true Aifghan style. Stones flew freely amidst
the crowd, whilst those within reach were literally served with the butt end of
the musket, and even the " cold steel" was not entirely dispensed with, for on
the subsequent establishment of the dispensary one of the earliest applicants
was a sufferer from a bayonet wound in the back, received at the door. Ir»
the course of a few weeks, mutual confidence having beeu established between
the Mission and the heir-apparent Sardar Gliolam Hydar Khan, the latter
through the kindly exerted influence of Major Lumsden, assigned an old
empty serai adjoining the court of our residence for use as an hospital. At
first the applicants were entirely from among the heir-apparent's soldiery, but
gradually, as suspicion wore off, the city people and villagers were admitted,
and at the end of the second month after the arrival of the Mission the
dispensary was in full work. This news having gone abroad, people flocked iu
from all parts of the country, from Cabul, Ghazni, Farrah, Ilalmaiid, &c.
Until the last however large numbers were refused admittance by the Affghan
officials on the plea of their belonging to hostile tribes or being suspicious
characters, and a confidential agent of the Sirdar was in constant attendance
at the dispensary with the professed object of keeping the heir-a[)parent'3
unruly subjects in proper order. The particulars concerning the dispensary
being represented by the accompanying formular returns, I propose after the
foregoing preliminary remarks to note a few observations. 1st, on the climate
of Kandahar. 2nd, on the diseases which may be attributed to it. 3rd, on
the diseases caused by the habits and mode of life of the people, and 4th
concluding with some account of the healing art as practised by the All'ghans-

Climate. — Kandahar has not a very salubrious climate. The mass of its
inhabitants compared with those of the northern and eastern portions of the
country are blear-eyed, fever stricken and rheumatic, and suffer in a remarkable
deo'ree from hfemorrhoidal affections. Indeed so prevalent is this disease, that
in the city of Kandahar most families possess a domestic enema syringe, a
mode of treatment usually extremely repugnant to Affghaus.

13y the Affghans the climate of Kandahar is compared to that of Balk
wbicli is notoriously unhealthy. This, however, is probably an exaggeration.
In a native work descriptive of the different districts in Aftghanistan, the old
city of Kandahar or Hussain Shalir (which was destroyed about a century

[ 230 ]

and a quarter ago by Nadir Shah) is described as having from an early period
acquired a notoriety for unhealthiness, its inhabitants being plagued with
bloody fluxes and frequent visitations of epidemic cholera, and as an instance
Babar Badshah is said to have lost forty soldiers of the city guard in one year
from bloody flux alone. Shah Tamasah, as a sanitory measure planted willow-
trees on the banks of the canals that supplied tlie city with water, but it
would appear without much resulting benefit, as afterwards it was the custom
to transfer culpable governors of other districts to this one as a punishment.

The present city is in no wise free from the morbific character assigned to
its predecessor. About twelve years ago the city, in common with tlie whole
district was visited by a severe outbreak of cholera, and again three years ago
«, similar epidemic ravaged the country and carried off great numbers. The
people remember these visitations with horror, and point to a graveyard about
three miles east and west on the plain, north of the city (and which did not
previously exist) as a proof of the magnitude of their liavoc. On the arrival
of tlie Mission at Kandahar (25th April, 1857) an eiiidemic small-pox of the
confluent kind was raging in the city, and a famine that prevailed at the same
time added to tlie horrors of the pestilence. Indeed so great was the suff"er-
ing during the height of the epidemic, that our necessary ride through the
city before reaching the open country and again on our return was quite a
painful ordeal.

Every house had its doomed, dying, or dead, whilst the houseless lay naked
in the public thoroughfares in the silence of death, or filling the already foully
tainted atmosphere with their moans, the ravings of delirium, or the pangs
of starvation, a feast to myriads of flies who, whilst gorging themselves, filled
the body with worms, and hastened away to disseminate the plague. The
epidemic continued in its violence for about six weeks after the arrival of the
Mission. Alter this it gradually subsided, but continued in a sporadic form
until our departure, more than a twelvemonth later. la fact the disease is
endemic, and it is difficult to see how, in common with other infections or
contagious diseases, once having occurred it should be otherwise, considering
the utter negligence of all sanitary precautious, even the slightest. On the
contrary the numerous watercourses that circulate through the city are polluted
with all manner of filth and offal with which the streets abound, whilst the
inhabitants instead of " going about" outside the city, use the housetops and
streets, even to the very threshold of their own dwellings.

During the hot weather, intermittents and bilious remittent fevers were very
rife, though the mortality was not extraordinary. These were followed in
autumn by epidemic bowel-cornplaints which carried off many victims. And
finally in winter, during December, January and February, the city as well as
the district generally was visited by an epidemic and contagious continued

[ 231 ]

fever, of the typlioid type with regard to its asthenic character, but remark-
able for the great frequency of hepatic complication and jaundice. The
mortality from this epidemic was very great, owing to want of proper care
and protection from the unusual severity of the weather. For upwards of a
month dtiriug the height of the cold weather the deaths in the city of Kandaliar
from this cause alone ranged, as far as I could accurately learn, between 12 and
15 daily (though common report raised the number to six or seven times this
number) and the mortality was proportionately great in the villages around. Af-
ter the epidemic had raged in its violence for about six weeks during tlie coldest
period of the winter, it changed its character with the weather and in the begin-
ning of February when all the snow had disappeared tlie fever in a measure lost its
typhoid character, and occasionally the continued was replaced by a remittent*
fever. But throughout, the presence of hepatitis and jaundice cliaracterized the
epidemic. During the latter stage of tlie epidemic, the fever usually came on
suddenly, in the same manner as ordinary cases of common continued fever,
headache, giddiness and lassitude, &c. being the precursory symptoms. At
first the fever was always high, exhibiting much excitement of the sanguife-
rous system. These symptoms continued live six days, when the hepatic
symptoms manifested themselves with more or less severity. In some cases
the pain of the hypochondrium was hardly noticed by the i)atient though
deeply jaundiced, wbilst in others with a similar sign ol the suppression of bile
the pain in the hepatic region was very acute and afiected the respiration,
which became short and hurried ; and unless the inllauimation was speedily
reduced, it extended itself to the duodeimm, causing distressing hiccough and
vomiting, under which the patient sank between the 8th and 14th days of the
fever. About the time that the hepatic symi)toms appeared, viz. between the
5th and 7th days, the fever assumed a low character marked by increased
rapidity of pulse and loss in its force, extreme exhaustion, delirium or entire
inditference to all that passed around or concerned the patient himself, a dry
brown or black and often immoveable tongue and abundant sordes ; and ia
many cases the peculiar odour so often observed in typhus cases, poisoned the
whole room with its stench. The bowels in those cases attended with jaundice
were with rare exceptions entirely inactive, and required regulation by aperi-
ents. At the beginning of the ei)ideniic the typhoid character manifested
itself very early, on the 2iid or 3rd day, and not unfrequently from the very
commencement of the attack this form of fever prevailed. But after the
change in the character of the weather and the epidemic (ali-eady referred to)
occurred, the fever during the first week of its course presented a distinct
synochal character succeeded by typhoid symptoms of now diminished severity.
During the early period of the epidemic the tendency to death in the great
majority of cases was by asthenis and coma combined, the latter owing to

[ 232 ]

the presence of bile in the blood, but the former exercising the preponderating
influence. But during the latter weeks of the epidemic on tlie contrnry the
latter was the most frequent mode of death, though not eutii'ely free of the
asthenic influence, as indicated by cold extrenuties and the symptoms already
described.

My native doctor Yakub Khan visited many cases in the city, and of 40 he
took notes. Of these 18 had pneumonia or other thoracic or pulmonary com-
plication, this predominance is justly attributable to the severity of the
weather and want of protection from its inclemency. 12 cases were complicat-
ed with hepatitis and jaundice and 10 cases had diarrhoea and dysentery.

Further particulars were not obtainable, as Yakub Klian, a zealous and
enthusiastic student of his profession, was himself attacked by this fever in a
severe form, from the efi"ects of which I much regret to say, he died. He was
the first of our party (wliich had hitherto escaped infection) attacked, and
being much respected and a favorite on account of his gentle manners and
kindness towards tlie sick, had many visitors during Ids illness. These, one after
the other, took the fever, so that within a period of three weeks the whole
of the native establishment of the dispensar}'^, five in number, and several
sepoys of our guard who lived under the same roof with him, were laid up
with the fever, and many of the attendants of these again in their turn were
attacked. The annexed tabular view will explain the characteristic particulars
of the various cases that occurred among our party, and who were consequently
under observation throughout their illness.

Disease.

No.
14

4
2

4
24

O

o

3

C
a>
C^

a'
<

O

i

Total
cases, ...

Chai'acterized

by

Period of Con-
valescent.

Hepatitis and 1 week, 3

jaundice. ,2 ditto, 9

:3 ditto, 2

Dysentery. 2 weeks, 1

3 ditto, 2

4 ditto, 1

rueumonia. |2 wcelis,
3 ditto,

Without com- 1 week, 2

plication ter- 2 ditto 2

minating
sweats.

Date of Death.

Treatment.

On the 15th and Cal. and Op. Local
12th days of abstractionofblood
the fever.

abstractionofblood
and blisters, qui-
nine and acid
Bulpb. stimulants.

Mild opiates, Plum-
bi acct. al. Keimi
and P. ojjii.

Col. op. and acct.
blisters and local
heeding.

Quinine and acid
sulph.

Diet. — Supporting
broths and jellies.

[ 233 ]

The fever usually ran its course in sixteen duys or three weeks. Relapses
were frequent, from ri>ing too soon, or from the slightest excess in diet.

During the early part of April, after having lasted for upwards of four
months, this fever disappeared, but was followed by a few scattered cases of
bilious remittent fever which, it appears, always prevails at Kandahar during
the hot weather.

The following synoptical table of atmospheric changes, formed from daily
observations at Kandahar, will convey a correct idea of its climate. The year
here contains four .reasons of nearly ecpial duration, viz. :

Winter. — December, January and February. Cloudy weather and storms ;
snow, sleet and rain. Hard I'ro.-ts, most severe in January and February.
Wind northerly, varying between the east and west points, and easterly.

Max.... I 6 A. M. open air 52
lied.... ditto 36.8

Temperature of the air.

1 p. M. 6un 115 SliJide 59

ditto 78.45 ditto 49.15
ditto 36.30 ditto 42

8 V. M. open air 61.30
ditto ^l-.M

ditto 31.00

Miu. ... I ditto 15

Spring. — March, April and May. Cloudy and fair weather. Occasional
rain and thunderstorms during first half of the season, in which also the niglits
are cold and frosty. In the latter half of the season the weather warms,
dews fall at night and occasional dust storms occur. Winds westerly and
south-westerly. High easterly winds, cold and bleak, prevail in March.

Temperature of the air during this season.

Max.... I 4 p. M. open air 78
Med..., I ditto 56.23

Min.... I ditto 31

1 p. M. sun 139 Sliade 85
ditto 114.50 ditto 70.8
ditto 78 ditto 53

8 P. M. open air 85
ditto 69.35

ditto 44.45

Summer. — June, July, August and part of September. The hot season
commences about the 20th June, and lasts till about the 20th September. It
consists of two periods of 40 days each, separated by an intervening fortnight
of cloudy and cooler weather, during which thunder storms occur in the
mountains, though rain rarely falls on the plain. During this season a pestilen-
tial hot wind often passes over the country. It blows from the westward and
frequently strikes travellers on the road. It is called " garamhdd" by the
natives, who have a lively dread of it, and describe those struck by it as rarely
recovering, but dying in a comatose state or becoming paralized.

The most prevalent wind during this season blows from the west during the
day, but during the night, and till the sun be risen a couple of hours, it blows
from the opposite direction. Dust storms arc fitquent and severe.
Average temperature of the air during this season.

Max.
Med.
M in.

4 a. m. open air 86
ditto 74

ditto 63

'i H

1 1'. M. sun l.'O lloiisp 96

ditto I3fi.20 diitu 87.10
ditto 1U5 ditto 82

8 P. -\r. o]ieii air 94
ditto ht;.i5

ditto 77

[ ^^34 ]

During tliis season the wind in the evening and in the earlj morning fre-
quently blows in warm and unrefreshing gusts, heated by the radiation from
the many bare reeky ranges tliat traverse the country.

Autumn. — Part of September, October and November. Sun powerful.
Occasional dust storms and cloudy weather towards the close of the season-
Heavy dews. No rain or rarely. Winds variable. High north-easterly and
north-westerly winds blow towards the close of the season.

Temperature of air.

Max....

Med....
Min....

5 A. M. open air 65
ditto 50.57

ditto 32

1 p. M. sun 148 Shade 82

ditto 123.50 ditto 70.44
ditto 70 ditto 58

8 P. M. open air 85
ditto 69.15

ditto 51

It is necessary here to observe that these observations were noted in a small
court-yard in the centre of the city. The morning and evening indications of
the thermometer were for this reason some degrees higher during the cold
weather than the actual temperature of the air in the open country. Indeed
we often noticed that when tlie thermometer early in the morning in winter
stood at several degrees above the freezing point, severe frosts prevailed at the
same time outside the city. The indications marked as noted in the shade
were registered daily in an ordinary flat roofed room of small dimensions with-
out any mechanical means for raising or lowering the temperature.

Diseases attributable to the cUrnate. — Foremost amongst these stand fevers,
principally intermittents and remittents, whilst continued fevers and small-pox,
though at all times met with in a sporadic form, are epidemic in particuhir
seasons only. Tlie first named fevers are prevalent throughout the year,
though more so in the spring and autumn, and are remarkable for the frequency
of the tertian form.

To the west of Kandahar in the Halmand district, these fevers prevail to an
extraordinary degree, and the inhabitants there sutfer greatly from their
sequelse, ascites and anasarca. The former in advanced cases produces extreme
distension of the abdominal walls, from which the navel projects in the form
of a large serai-transparent globe full of water and intestine. In this district,
and apparently confined to its limits along the banks of the river Halmand
the anasarca produced by long continued intermittent fever assumes a very
peculiar form. At first general and slight, the anasarca at length settles in
one or other of the lower extremities, sometimes in both. Here the odema
extendino" as high as the knee becomes permanent and somewhat increased, the
inteo-uraents thicken and become hard, and present coarse horizontal cracks and
fissures. The disease at first sight has the appearance of elephantiasis, but
the skin pits distinctly on firm pressure, and on wounding it, some thin watery
blood slowly exudes. The patients have a sickly sallow look with a yellowish

[ 235 ]

tinge in their skins. The lips and conjunctivse are i)ale and bloodless. The
spleen is occasionally enlarged, sometimes smaller than usual, but inore fre-
quently without appreciable change in its size, and tender under pressure.
Many patients from the Hahnand district suffering from this disease sought
relief at the Kandahar dispensary. On being questioned, all asserted that this
disease was very common in their country, and they knew of others in their
several villages, similarly afflicted. The natives attribute tliese diseases to the
water of the river Halraand, which is described as ill-flavored and often very
muddy, and generally bears a bad repute. The soil is described as sandy and
gravelly, and covered near the river with a brush-wood of tamarisks, camels'
thorn, reeds, &c. The hot weather is said to be of long duration and fearfully
severe ; so much so, that lead placed in the sun is soon rendered soft, and e<''<'s
similarly exposed speedily become poached.

Of an epidemic continued fever that ravaged Kandahar in the beginning of
1858, I Lave already given a description, and, as far as I can learn from
enquiry, the disease there described is the I'orui that continued fever usually
assumes in this part of the country.

Diseases of the eye are numerous and extremely common, anil though nut
all attributable to the climate, may be mentioned here togetlier. Cataract and
amaurosis are more prevalent in some districts than in others, and as regards
the former, the Hahnand district is one of these.

The inflammatory diseases of the eye in tlicir numerous forms and various
results are very common, and are to be met with every where. Acute con-
junetivitis and corneitis (as often arising from strumous predis[)osition a.s from
climatic changes) are the most prevalent eye diseases, and generally have an
unfavourable termination too often leading to total blindness. But this is
not to be wondered at, considering the antagonistic modes of treatment the
patient is at the same time subjected to. Though bled freely from the aim,
purged and starved in order to reduce the inflammation, the good effects of such
treatment are completely nullified by the local ap|)licatioiis. Fresh urine is
the collyrium most in vogue, with this the eyes are washed morning and
evening, whilst, during the intervals, layers of raw onions are applied over the
inflamed eye, or instead of this, powdered turmeric made into a paste vvitli tiie
white of an egg is substituted. The consequence is that intense chemosis is
produced, the cornea sloughs, the humours escape, and the eye collapses or
becomes completely disorganized. Among the numerous other diseases of the
eye only Fterygo and Entropion may be mentioned on account of their
frequency. The latter or inversion of the eyelids and lashes, is more frequently
observed among females, and, through neglect or bad treatment, genm-ally
produces intense pannus. The only treatment adopted consists in charms,
i> II 2

[ 2:3G J

and tlic actual oautpry applied to tbo temples or crown of the head. Even
the alleviation of the disease by rooting out the inverted eye-lashes is not
attempted.

Skin disease, an aggravated form of Lepra, is met with in the steppes
occupying the western portion of Affghanistan and is principally confined to
the nomad population. I saw but four such cases, though I hear the disease is
common among the men of the desert. The cases referred to were nearly all
equally badly diseased, and they certainly were most repulsive objects of
humanity. With little exception, the entire integument of the body was
affected. The cuticle was generally thickened and traversed by large irregular
fissures mostly in a horizontal direction, especially around the joints where
they were deeper, and penetrated the cutis, from which a thin bloody fluid
exuded at every movement of the joint. The cuticle adhered in large, loose,
white or brownish and blood-stained scales, that fell off by the mere friction of
the clothes, which themselves were full of their debris. On enquiry I learnt
that this disease prevailed more or less among the nomads of the desert
(Slialuira nishiii) whose chief occupation is tending flocks, and whose substitute
for water lor purposes of ablution, as enjoined by their religion, is sand or
earth ! Lnpetiginous diseases of the scalp and herpetic affections, more
especially Lupus, are met with every where. This last is far more frequent
than the otliers, and from its aggravated character and disfigurement of the
features, renders its unfortunate victims at once hideous objects of compassion
and aversion.

Rheumatism and neuralgic affections a,re very generally prevalent through-
out the year, and seiatica especially so. To these the natives are predisposed by
the open-air life they lead and their consequent exposure to the vicissitudes
of the weather, not to omit the habit of sleeping in the open night air, which
deposits a heavy dew upon and around them. Another disease common in
this country, and owing its origin to an opposite influence of the climate, is
apoplexy and paralytic seizure. They attack young and old alike, and often
occur without any appreciable cerebral disturbance. One or other of the
extremities, or one side of the face or body, is all at once seized with a numb-
ness, sometimes accoxiipanied by vertigo, followed by paralysis and a slow and
gradual atrophy of the limb ensues. The natives attribute these diseases, as
also St. Vitus' Dance and epilepsy, to the evil influence of Genii, and observe
that they are more prevalent at the time that apricots ripen, that is about
June and Jul}', than at other seasons.

Stone in the bladder is a common disease in all parts of the country.

Diseases caused hij the habits of the 'people. — Though the habits and mode
of. lil'e of the people of this country, and cspeclully of that portion who are

[ 237 ]

settled in large communities, tend in a great measure to predispose tliem to
the influences of the diseases alread}^ mentioned, tliey are, apart from all
climatic influence, the exciting cause of a large and very frequent class of
diseases, among which, one, that needs no particular mention here, despite the
Affghan's eternal boasting of the religious and orthodox life he leads, and the
strict laws that prohibit prostitutes from plying their trade, stands forward
as a public witness against his moral delinquencies, were any needed in the
face of the universally and openly practised crime of sodomy, which may " par
excellence" be styled an Affghan vice.

Some particulars of the huWits and mode of life of the people of Kandahar
will explain how these circumstances afl'cct the character and prevalence of
certain diseases.

At Kandahar (and other cities of Affghanistan do not difier materially
from it in the following particulars) tlie inhabitants lead a very sedentary
life. The majority of them rarely go outside the city wall for months toge-
ther. The air they live in is rarely free from the elUuvia of liunian deposits and
all sorts of decomposing animal and vegetable remains that are scattered over
the streets and house-tops in every direction. Alter rain, the stench arising
from these renders the air of the city almost unbearable, whilst during the
hot months every gust of wind raises clouds of this abomination that beats
against the face and exposed portions of tlie body, and is a very frequent
cause of opthalmia and skin diseases. The water that circulates through the city
in numerous channels is every where defiled by all manner of filth, and yet
is generally used for drinking and domestic purposes. The i)eople themselves,
as might well be expected, are equally dirty in tlieir own persons ; and though
baths are numerous and much frequented, notwithstanding the questionable
combustibles with which they are heated, their effects do not last half an
hour, for the bathers always come out of the bath in the same filthy clothes
with which they entered it.

To account in a measure for this wretched state of things, it is necessary to
state that the citizens are very heavily taxed (with the exception of straw,
fuel and manure, not a thing is allowed to enter or leave the city without
paying a toll,) and oppressed by their rulers, who monopolize all the profitable
occupations, and force the products of these on the people at an enhanced
price. The ill-paid soldiery also look upon the citizens as fair game to make
up deficiencies in their pay, and fully act up to these views, as their burglaries
&c., are of necessity passed over unpunished by government. The inhabitants
are, in consequence, hard worked, ill-fed and generally poor. In passing
through the main bazar, the observer is struck with the dirty and wretched
appearance of the mass of the population, who are in fact quite in keeping
with the filthy state of the roads and the mean look of the shops and houses.

[ 238 ]

Amono; tlie many diseases arising from such a state of affairs, scrofula
stands in the first rank on account of its pi'evalenee in its various forms winch
here need no further description, except that its subjects, owing to their dirty
personal habits, the effects of carelessness and ignorance combined, and other
circumstances over which they have no control, are more than ordinarily
wretched objects to behold.

Syphilitic diseases are extremely common, and often met with in disgusting
and repulsive forms. A peculiar skin disease owing its origin to a taint of
this poison is found affecting most of the Kandaharis. It is said also to
prevail at Cabul. This disease is chariicterized by a warty eruption that
appears in solitary patches in all parts of the body. The patches are of an
oval or circular shape, from half an inch to two or three inches in diameter.
The diseased grovvth is raised above the skin, which is red, and rises gradually
to the edge of the diseased structure. The surface of the warts is covered
with a dry yellowish white crust corresponding with the extent of warty
surface. On its removal, the red blunt papillo of the warts are exposed
through a thin layer of watery lymph that covers them, and which is a
contagious poison communicating the disease by contact with an abraded
surface. At Kandahar the class of diseases to which the above is referred,
is so prevalent in its various forms that young and old of both sexes are
equally affected, not even excluding infants ; and the native medical men
themselves admit that hardly one in twenty of the whole population is free
from the taint of this disease in some form or other.

Hemorrhoidal affections, as already mentioned, are very prevalent, and
attributable to the effects of a hot and dry climate, on the inhabitants already
predisposed to such diseases by the circumstances of their lives previously
mentioned, viz. want of exercise or recreation, bad air, hard work, indifferent
food, mental oppression, and beastly vices.

Such are the principal diseases at Kandahar, which are worthy of note on
account of peculiarity or frequency of occurrence. The following notes will,
to some degree, indicate the manner in which their alleviation or cure is
attempted.

Healing art among the Afghans. — The Affghan " haJcims^^ profess them-
selves the disciples of the '^Yiiiidm hikmat'^ the theories of the ancient Greek
physicians Galen, (-^ JdJiaus") Hippocrates C Bolcrat"') ki. However this
may be, they divide all diseases into an arbitraiy classification of hot and cold,
dry and moist, and treat them respectively with remedies of an opposite
character, which are for the most part also abitrarily assigned, the majority of
them being demulcent, aromatic, narcotic, others vegetable simples.

They know nothing either of anatomy or pathology of diseases, and their

[ 239 ]

acquaintance with surgery is even less than that with medicine, and often
really dangerous.

Layers of raw onions and turmeric, made into a paste with urine or the
white of eggs, is the universal application, after stitching, to wounds of all
sorts ; and once applied is rarely removed before the expiration of 10 or 12 days,
the access of air to the wound being considered very detrimental. Water in
any shape is looked upon as positive poison, and its contact with the wound
is religiously' guarded against.

The actual cautery, both by iron and moxa and the lancet, is in constant
use for chronic pains and swellings of all kinds and other diseases, wliilst in
all cases, charms and certain forms of prayer form an important part of the
treatment. The cautery is a ver}' favorite remedy, and its patrons are to be
recognized everywhere. A man has neuralgia of the scalp, a row of half a
dozen eschars, each the size of a rupee, are at once burnt into the head from the
forehead over tlie crown to tlie nape of the neck. The sufferer from sciatica
applies the hot iron, and is soon covered from hip to heel with its marks. The
subject of ascites, in the vain hope of relief, has his abdominal walls burnt by
the moxa, five or six great scars on each side, the middle line commemorating
the fiery ordeal. The aneient dunie, sightless by cataract, expects the i-estora-
tion of her vision witli the application of the hot iron to her temples. The
rheumatic patient resorts to the cautery as the remedy for his pains. Tlie
owner of a tumour expects it to vanisii before fire, so he resorts to the hot
iron. And even the crook-back submits to tlie cautery, and lias the entire
hide of his back almost replaced by the scars of the searing iron or moxa.
Indeed the cautery is a universal remedy, and the perseverance of the All'glians
in its use is really astonishing and deserving of better results.

In gun-shot wounds, the track of the bullet is always stuffed with a firm
bougie of rolled cloth, which is often, with occasional new substitutions, kept in
for two years or more. In cases of compound fracture, the broken ends being
forced into place, the wound is crammed with sugar. The diminution of this
by the discharges is replaced by fresh supplies, till the ends of the broken
bone are thrown off, or the patient dies.

The vis medicatrix naturte and the tenacity of life, which, among all semi-
barbarous people exposed to a hardy and open air life, exert a great influence
towards the resolution of diseases and healing of wounds &e. are often, among
the Affghans, counteracted by the reckless manner in which their " hakims^'
dose them with European drugs and other remedies, of the properties of which
they have not the remotest idea. Among many others, corrosive sublimate,
strong sulphuric acid, Worcestershire and other hot sauces, Eau-de-Cologne,
Macassar oil, and such like things, were frequently brought to me at Kandahar

I

[ 24.0 ]

to enlighten their owners as to their therapeutical effects and proper closes, as
in their hands they proved anything but successful remedies !

These hakims are confined in their sphere of action to the towns and cities.
But among the rural population their place is supplied by the village priest
(mullah) or else the patients doctor themselves, and their case is far better
than that of the towns-people.

The priest-doctors naturally place most reliance in charms, prayers and
pilgrimages, though at the same time they use the lancet and cautery in a
fearless manner.

Among the peasantry, the mode of treating fevers is as follows. The patient
is placed on the lowest diet, for he gets little or no food, and is vigorously
shampooed and plied with warm diluents in order to produce perspiration,
which is then ke[)t up by excess of clothing. Where this method proves unsuc-
cessful, the " posf^ or sheep skin is resorted to, and it is thus managed. A
sheep is killed and quickly skinned, and the patient stripped to the loins, puts
on the still warm skin as one would a coat ; that portion of the skin covering
the sheep's shoulders serving as the sleeves. The inner surface of the removed
skin is in contact with that of the man, whose body from the neck to the hips
is closely and completely enveloped in it. This is kept on for two, three or four
days, till the stench from its decomposing cellular tissue is no longer bearable.
The skin commences to putrify in a few hours after it is put on, and before
long the already close and heated atmosphere of the room (caused by the
numerous attendants and guests who flock in for a share of mutton preparing
for them) is soon loaded with its stench, which is neither concealed nor better-
ed by the disagreeable nauseous fumes of burning " sipa7td," a species of wild
rue which, as I have already mentioned in another place, is always burnt at the
bedside of the sick, &c. in this country. This use of the sheep's skin is not
confined to cases of fever only. It is also put on in acute inflammatory
attacks of the thoracic and abdominal viscera. And in other local pains, the
skin, or enough of it to envelope the affected part, is usually allowed a tiiul
before resorting to the cautery.

The Aflghan peasant's practice of domestic surgery, though rather rough, is
quite as original and sensible (both being founded on experience) as that of
his domestic medicine. For example, when a man happens to dislocate his
thigh bone, the following is the method by which the reduction is attempted,
and, as far as I can learn, generally with a successful result. For three days
the patient is kept on very spare diet indeed, and a constant state of nausea is
maintained by plying him with frequent and copious draughts of lukewarm
water. During this period an ox or cow, whicii is to bo the chief though
unconscious operator in the reduction of the dislocation, is tied up, allowed

[ 2M ]

only a scanty supply of of straw, but no water. At the end of three days (or
before, accordiug to circumstances) both the patient and cow being reduced
respectively to a proper state of debility and thirst, and well fitted to perform
their separate parts in the reduction, the former is brought out and mounted
" au Cavalier" on the latter's back, previously covered with a blanket of felt.
His legs are then well pulled down, and the ankles, drawn towards each other
under the animal's belly, are here firmly secured by cords. All the apparatus
being properly adjusted and the arrangements complete, the famished cow is led
off to a neighbouring stream and allowed to drink, which she does with avidity
and to excess, swelling visibly with each draught. The gradual extension,
caused by ttie regularly increasing barrel of tlie cow, often, it is said, reduces
the dislocation before the animal has satiated herself.

In dislocation of the ankle, the injured limb is buried in the earth and then
hauled out forcibly.

Dislocation of the shoulder is reduced by placing an empty " masak'^ or
water skin in the armpit, securing the hand up to tlie opposite shoulder and
then filling the skin with water. Its weight is said to reduce the dislocation.

The AfFghans have a curious idea, and their hakims know no better, that all
the nerves and vessels of the body centre in the navel. A favourite modo
therefore of treating many diseases is to pour a little almond oil or other
medicine on the navel as being the " Fons et origo malis." A very common
complaint among the debilitated and dyspeptic is "displacement" or "falling
down" or " unsteadiness" of the navul, as tlu-y idiomatically express it, and
their mode of treatment is as eccL'ntrio as the disease itself.

The patient lies down on his back, whilst the operator seizing the navel
tightly between the tips of his thuinh and finger, twists it with a screw-liku
motion, and then pressing it down to the spine draws it up again and repeats
the screwing. This process is repeated on each side of the abdomen, and
finally the navel is pressed down to the spine us at first, and tlie o[)erator
feeling the excited pulsations of the abdominal artery (aorta) now declares
that the navel " leaps" in its right place, and calls on the bystanders to feel
and judge for themselves, and verify or otherwise his assertion. These, on
feeling the pulsations mentioned, in astonishment at his skill, give their
verdict in favour of the operator. But the cure does not end here. The
"straying fountain of all evil" being declared in its proper place, something
must be done to prevent its again wandering, or at least the patient's imagining
it does, and the process adopted ans.vers admirably.

The operator seizing one hand of tlie patient by the wrist, grasps the
rtesliy part between the thumb and forefinger with the grip of a vice between
the joints of his own thumb and middle finger, and tortures the patient for
2 I

[ 21.3 ]

several moments witli n rapid " to and fro" gnawini^ aolion ; this is repeated
on the other hand. Then the great cord of vessel* and nerves of each arm
just as they issue from the armpit are alternately caught up between the
o[)erator's thumb and fingers, pulled away from the bone like the string of a
bow and gradually allowed to escape with a grating movement from the tight
grip of the operator. The patient, now faint, perspiring and hewildered by all
the acutely painful twangs that have so rapidly shocked liim, has a charm,
with some verses from the Kuran written on it, tied about his loins, and is
assured that the refractory navel has returned to its place. It is long before
he resorts to this treatment again, though the charm is often changed, and the
cautery applied to the navel to stop its vagrant propensilies.

[ 243 ]

Ileturn of j)atieiits treated in the Charitable Dispensary at Kandaliar from
the 1st May, 1857 to the 30th April, 1858.

Dated Kandahar, \st May, 1858.

Diseases.

Abscessus,

Amaurosis,

Anibustio,

Amautia,

Anasarca,

Anajinia,

Aneurisma,

Antliorax,

Apoplexia,

Aptliae,

Ascites,

Astluna,

Dronchitis,

Calculus Vesicae,

Cancer,

Cataract,

Catarrhus Acutus,

Caries Vertebrje,

Cephalalgia,

Chlorosis,

Ciiolera,

Chorea,

Colica,

Conjunctioitis,

Constipatio,

Contractura,

Corneitis,

Debilitas,

Diarrluea,

Dislocatio,

Dracunculus,

Dyscnteria,

Dyspepsia,

Eozenia,

Eutropion,

Epilepsia,

Epsitaxis,

Erysi|)elas,

Febris coin, continua, ..
Ditto Int. quotidian,., ..
Ditto ditto Tertian, .. ..
Ditto Puerpera,

131

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205

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[ 2U ]

Diseases.

Febris Typhus,

Fistula Ani,

])itto Laelirymalis, .. ..

Ditto Perinei,

Ditto Urethra,

Fractuia Simplex,

Ditto Coniposita,

Gaiigreua,

Glaucoma,

Gonorrhoea,

FIsemorrhagia,

Hsemorrhois,

Hemicrania,

Hemiplegia,

Hepatitis,

Hernei Inguinalis, .. ..

Herpes,

Hydrocephalus,

Icterus,

Impetigo,

Iritis,

Laryngitis,

Lepra,

Leprosy,

Lumbago,

Lupus,

Morbus Cordis,

Ditto Cosarius,

JS^ecrosis,

Nephritis, ,

Neuralgia,

Odontalgia,

Opthalmia, ,

Orchitis, ,

Otitis,

Palpitatio,

Paralysis,

Parotytis,

Periostitis,

Phthisis pulmonalis, . ..

Pleuritis,

Pneumonia,

Podagra,

Polypus nasi,

Pronasis,

Peryguim,

S

1

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70
o

•T3

>

0

o

6
o

o

'si

CD

p

0

0

0

0

3

0

0

8

0

1

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

2

0

1

0

0

0

0

o

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

1

0

0

0

0

0

2

1

0

0

0

0

2

0

0

1

0

0

0

0

0

1

9

0

0

1

0

0

0

0

0

0

2

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

5

0

0

4

0

4

2

0

2

0

0

0

0

1

0

2

0

0

2

0

2

0

0

3

0

0

0

0

0

0

1

0

0

0

0

6

0

1

1

0

5

2

0

0

0

4

0

0

0

0

0

2

0

o

0

1

2

0

0

0

0

0

1

1

0

5

0

0

4

0

0

0

0

0

0

3

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

4

0

0

0

0

1

0

0

0

0

3

3

0

0

0

4

0

1

0

0

4

6

0

2

0

1

0

0

0

0

1

0

0

2

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

2

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

1

0

2

0

0

0

0

2

0

0

1

0

1

1

1

1

0

[ 245 ]

Diseases.

Ptyalionius,

Klieumatitimus, . ,

Siibies,

Sciatica,.

Scorbutus,

Scrofula, ,

Spermatorrhoea,. . ,

S|jleiiitis,

Staphyloma,

Strictura Urethra,

Subluxatio,

Syphilis Primifc. .
Ditto Coiisec. . . .

S3iiovitis,

Talipes Equinus, .
Ditto Verus, . . . .
loenia Solium, .. .

I'on.^illitis,

Tumor,

Ulcus, .

Ditto Phagedcenie,

Varicis,

Vulu Contusum, .
Ditto Iiicisum, . . .
Ditto Sclopitorum,
Wart,

Total . . .

1

296

38

22

44

26

5

59

13

4

1

61

76

2

3

2

38

42

21

161

2

3

37

64

15

53

o

1 1
296 291

38
22
44
26

5
59
13

4

1
64
76

2

3
2

38

42

21

161

2

3

37

64

15

53

3

o

34

19

42

1

5

45

0

4

1

64

69

1

0

0

38

42

19

160

2

3

37

63

7

51

0
5
2
3
2
22
0
10
0
0
0
0
4
1
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
4
I

-Z3

o

4907 1907 445S: 221

0
0
0
0
0
1
0
3
7
0
0
0
2
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
2
0

68

0
0
0
0
0
2

0
0
6
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0

22

0
0
2

0
0
0
0

1

0
0
0
0

1

0
3
2
0
0
2
0
0
0
0
0
2

1

106

0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0

14

0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0

1

0
0
0

1

0
0

18

I 246 ]

Operations 'perfornied in the Kandahar Dispensanj from 1st Mat/,
1857 to Ibth May, 1858.

Calculus VesifcB. — Three cases were operated on by the lateral incision, with
a successful result in each. The only case deserving' of notice is one in which
there were two stones in the bladder united by a slender arm that broke on
seizing for extraction, thus simplifying the process. In a fourth case, a small
stone the size of a bean, escaping from the bladder, lodged in the membranous
portion of the urethra, whence its ejection was caused by the use of the warm
hip bath and diuretics. A fifth case resembled the last, but there were four
small stones each the size of a pea; they were also voided by the same
treatment as that pursued in the previous case.

Cataract. — Sixteen cases were operated on ; in every instance depression of
the lens was attempted. Seven of these cases were cured, tolerable (in two
cases very good) vision resulting. In five cases vision was but imperfectly
restored, two cases failed entirely, and two ceased to attend.

Necrosis. — In six cases of this disease of the bones of the upper and lower
extremities, the necrosed portions were removed by operation, and with a
successful result in all. There was no peculiarity wortli}'' of mention.

Tumors. — Nineteen tumors of greater or less size were excised from various
parts of the bod3^ Of these three were fibrous, five fatty, two encysted and
nine atheromatous. No case presented any peculiarity worthy of mention.

APPENDIX I.

Noff'.<t on the Flora of Ajj'<jhanistcni.

In submitting the following remarks on the botany of Affghanistan, T am
constrained in apology for its incompleteness to premise that they are the
result of very limited opportunities of observation in that portion only of
the countr}'^ traversed by the mission. Tlie subject Is arranged in two parts
in accordance with the diflerent habitats of the plants. Tlius, in the first part
are mentioned some of those plants more commonly met with on the plains,
and in the second some of the principal plants and forest trees found in the
hills and mountains. But before entering on this description it will be as well
first to dispose of a number of those common but widely distributed herbs that
are found to occupy similar soils in different localities, and the general
characters of which may be inferred from the following brief enumeration.

Plants of cultivated districts. — In all cultivated districts and occupying
the cornfields, meadows, garden and orchards, and the roads and water-
courses about them, exists a rank vegetation of herbs which may be included
under the comprehensive term ' weeds.' Among these may be mentioned the
common buttercup (ranunculus), the pasque flower (anemone), the mouse ear
ohickweed (myosurus), the larkspur (delphinium) and other genera, as also
the nlgclla sattlva of the same family of plants, together with the plantaiu or
ribbed grass, the corn blue bottle, the fumitory, caperspurge, bindweed, &c.,
as commonly found in the cornlields. The root of a variety of caperspurge
with j^ellow inflorescence, is in common use among the peasantry as a
purgative.

The yellow or millefoil, used as an aromatic bitter medicine by the natives
under the name of " bu-i-mdddrdn," the wild chicory, often cultivated for
the sake of its seeds which are extensively used in medicinal and other
sharbats ; and other composite plants such as the ox-eye, hawkweed, dande-
lion, ragworts, thistles, &e., mint, thyme, basil and other labiate herbs, abound in
the clover and lucerne titlds, and chequer them with the varied hues of their
flowers. The seeds of most of them are used in sharbats as medicines: those
of basil are called " tukhm-i-raiJidn,^' and are the most favourite of the
" Khunulciuna'^ or "cold" remedies of the native physicians. Several varieties

[ 248 ]

vieium, ervum, astragalus and other small herbs of the leguminous order are
met with in the same situations as the above. The lesser orobanche is a
common parasite in the fields on the roots of the clover and lucerne, and it is
also frequently seen in the tobacco plantations.

The scurvey grass, the shepherd's purse and other cruciferse, as the wild
mustard, wild turnip, &c., are trod on at every step, on the road sides, where
also saxifrages, dwarf mallows, the wild carrot, &c. abound.

In the gardens the dock and tlie common sorrel luxuriate ; the latter is
used as a pot herb by the natives. The shady banks of the water-courses are
adorned by the star wort, the ragged robin, the campion, the goose grass, or
cleavers, as also by the cranesbill and other pelargoniums, and occasionally tlie
clematis or traveller's joy is met with.

On the outskirts of cultivation are met the datura, the seeds of which are
used by the natives as a remedy in some forms of dyspepsia, tlie deadly niglit-
shade called " anabu-s-mlit^'' and whose berries under tlie name of" sag-augurk''^
are commonly used as a sedative medicine ; and another plant of tlie same
family the " bdd-i-panlr'' (puneeria coagulans) the berries of which are eaten
as a carminative and also used for coagulating milk and making cheese,
whence its name ; there are other plants of a similar kind.

Rushes, duckweeds, &c., abound in tlie stagnant wet ditches, where also the
fool's parsley, hemlock and other umbellifers, and some ranunculi, &c. are
found.

Lowland plants. — The plains of western Aflfghanlstan or that portion of
them contained between Ghuzni and Girishk, (my observations being limited
within these points, though as far as I can learn the botanical character of
the country does not differ materially so far westward as Herat) consisting as
they do of sterile, gravelly and sandy expanses, curtailed and cut off from one
another by mountain ridges of bare rock, are neither tliickly populated nor
well clothed with vegetation. The cultivated districts present the only
really green spots in this region, the rest is a wild desert, supporting scattered
patches of brushwood, but no large trees.

In the cultivated districts the mulberry, tlie willow, the poplar, and the
ash (fraxinus excelsior) are the principal trees, and their presence here is
owing to the agency of man.

In the desert wastes, on the other hand, the vegetation is scant, trees are
rarely or not at all met with, and at scattered and distant intervals only a
stunted brushwood prevails. This, in sandy spots, is principally made up of
the dwarf tamarisk, growing from the roots of which is often seen the scaly
leafless stem of the greater orobanche. The tamarisk is a source of the fuel
used for domestic purposes in this region.

[ 249 ]

Its thin long twigs are worlveJ into baskets and coarse mats, &e. In such
situations are also found several species of salsola, which are burned for the
soda and potash they yield. In other places the brushwood consists chielly of
scattered plants among wliich the camel's thorn (which is often seen choked
by the dense meshes of the parasitic dodder and is the source of the manna
known as " turaujahiii" the spiny resh harrow (ononis spinosa) and many"
other genera of leguminous plants, armed witli spines and bearing papiliona-
ceous flowers, are tlie most com.mon. The long and fibrous root of the resh
harrow is often used by tlie natives as a tooth brush, and is hence called bv
them " luta-i-maswah.'''' Tiie slender climbing stem of another plant found
ill the hills, but of wliich I have not succeeded in obtaining a specimen, is also
used for a similar purpose. The sensitive mimosa and varieties of acacia,
known by the term " hahul,^' and belonging to the same order of plants as
the above, are also occasionally met with, especially in the south-western
portion of tlie country. As also the bair, jujube and other species of
zj'zyphus. The Z.jnjuba is often cultivated in orchards for its edilile fruit,
which are also used as medicine in bronchial alfections, Ac. In some i)laces
occupying the sides and hollows of ravines are found the rose bay (nerium
oleander) called by the natives " JcJ/arzarah'" from its poisonous effects on
horses, asses, &c., the wild iaburnum and various species of inJigofera which
more or less abound in all moist situations in the country.

lietween tiiesc patches of stunted brushwood, the country is thinly clothed
with grass}' tufts and many herbs that alford pasture to the (locks that visit
this region in the winter and spring months. Deserving of mention (thouj'h
already described in another place) are the absinth and wild rue on account
of their prevalence and universal distribution here. Besides the absinth many
other composite plants are met with, but principally the thistle or carduus
genus, and mingled with these are found the orchis, J3lue Flags and other
species of iris. Such are the principul plants nc'^iced by the traveller, and
will serve as an illustration of the kind of vegetation met with on the plains
of Affghanistan.

To sum up then, the flora of this region comprises many genera of the
Botanical orders Leguniinoste, Compo.^ita', Crucifenr, Umbellifera;, Labiatae,
Boraginacea?, Solanacca^, &c. and of each of which orders several genera are
cultivated. Thus of the first named, clover, lucerne, &c. and various kinds of
pea, bean, pulse and Icntin, &c. are cultivated as food for man and beast. Of
the Cruciferae the Cabul cabbage, celebrated for its size and flavour, and species
of sinopis called " sarsham" raised for the oil yielded by its seeds, wliiJst the
young leaves are used as greens, are the chief members. The carrot, fennel,
cummin, coriander among the cultivated species, and the asafolida anr
2 K

[ 250 ]

"TiomaV^ (Praugos pabularia) &e. among wild species, represent Umbelliferae.
The last named is found in great abundance in the iiilly country at Ghuznee,
and is said to extend through Hazarah to Herat. It is stored up as a very
nourishing fodder for cattle and horses during winter. Besides tlic orders
mentioned, some fumitories, malvacca?, saxifrages, orchids and galiacete are
common. Of this last order the madder (rubia tinctorum) is largely cultivat-
ed and exported. The borage order is represented b}' the " forget-me-not ;"
borage, comfre}', alkanet, varieties ofcynoglossum, Symphytum, &c. But these
are more abundant in the higher ground.-.

Mountain flants. — The peculiar and characteristic distribution of vegetation
in the mountains of Affglianistan is worthy of notice. The great mass of the
vegetation is confined chiefly to the main mountain ranges themselves and
their immediate offshoots, and gradually diminishing in abundance with tlie
extension of the spurs starting off from these main ranges, is almost altogether
wanting on their distant or terminal prolongations. This is well exemplified
in the " Sufed-koh" range.

Here on the " white mountain" itself and on its immediate branches, and at an
elevation of between 6000 and 10,000 feet above the sea, the vegetation is
characterised by an abundant growth of large forest trees, among which
conifers are the most noble and prominent. And several genera are met witli ;
of the following, I obtained specimens, viz. deodar (ccdrus deodara) the
spruce (abies excelsa) the long-leaved pine (pinus longifolia,) the cluster-pine
(pinus pinaster,) the edible pine, (p. pinea,) which yields the nut known as
" chah/lioza,^^ and the larch (p. larix). The hazel, the yew, the arbor vita^
(tliuja orientalis,) and tlie juniper, are also here met with, together with the
walnut, the wild peach and almond, which last is the source of the bitter
almonds met with in the bazars. Growing under the shade of these are found
several varieties of tlie rose, the honey-suckle, the currant, the gooseberry,
the hawthorn, rhododendron, &c. and a luxuriant herbage vegetation in which
the ranunculus family holds an important place on account of the frequency
and number of its genera.

The lemon and wild vine are also met with here, as also the " amhilc ;'''' but
these are more common in the northern mountains. Tlie walnut and oak
descend to the secondary heights, where they become mixed with the ash, the
alder, the khinjak (pistacla khinjak) the arbor vitse, juniper and species of
phaca and astragalus. Various indigoferfje and the dwarf laburnum are also
here met with. Three varieties of oak are met with on the Sufed-koh, viz.
the ever-<'"reen, the holly-leaved and the kermes oak.

Lower than these again, and at an elevation of about .3000 to GOOO feet
above the sea, the wild olive, species of rock rose, the wild privet, acacias,

[ ^oi ]

mimosas, the Barberry and species of zyzyi)iui>, Sic. are met with ; and iu tho
eastern ranges as in the Mxranzai and Afridi bills, the dwarf palm (canuerops
liumilis) the acacia, the bignonia or trumpet flower, the sissoo, the saloadora
persica, verbena, acanthus, &c. variety of gesnus, &c. are also met with.

The lowest or terminal ridges, especially towards the west, present a bare
aspect, and support but a scanty vegetation, which is for the most part
entirely herbal ; shrubs are only occasionally met with, but trees rarely or
never. The plants here met with comprise most of those that form the under-
growth or herbal vegetation in the higher ranges. Labiate, compound and
umbelliferous plants, are the most common. Violets, various species of del-
phinium, and otlier genera of ranunculaeeiu are met with in the moist or
sheltered portions of the hills. Whilst the rhubarb or " ravdsW^ plant, and
many spiny and thorny species of the order cyophylleio, abound in the opposite
situations. Hare-bells, blue-bells and other campanulacea3 are sometimes here
met with, but they are more abundant in the higher regions ; the same mav
be said of the jointed fir bush, a variety of genctum. Orchids in great
variety abound in the hills, as well as the higher plains ; and in spring their
flowers clothe the country, with a white carpet chequered by the varied hues of
the red, white and yellow tulip, lilies, hyacinths, dalfodils, &e. Ferns and
mosses are conlined for the most part to the highest ranges, not finding sulli-
cient moisture in the lower ones.

Such are the more familiar plants tliat attract the attention of the traveller
amongst a number of others, that cannot be recognized at this season of the
v'-ar (June), their flowering period having passed by or not commou'-ed.

L' n 2

SUrrLEMENT.

No. 167 of 1857.

From

LIEUT.- COL. n. B. EDWARDES, C. B.

Commissioner and Superintendent, Pesliawur Division.

To

CAPTAIN H. R. JAMES,

Offij. Secretary to tlie Chief Commissioner for the riinjah,

Peshawur, i)th Fehruary, 1857.

Politiral.

Sir, — By letter No. 27 of 11th August, 185G, (conveyed in No, 095

of 29tli August, 185G from your office) instructions wore received from

the Secretary to the Government of India for tlio jMilitary expedition

in October into Upper Meeranzye and Kurram, to make an example of

the refractory village of Dersuramund, compel an understanding with

the Zymooshts, and obtain satisfaction from the Toorees, subjects of

Cabul, for raids made into our territories, I now proceed to report how

far these objects have been carried out.

2. — While the question of an expedition was before Government,

sundry changes took place in Meeriiuzye, some for the better, and some

for the worse.

3. — The loyal faction* in Dersummund (headed by MuUik Bungee)

assured of a coming expedition, took
* As an instance of the general rule that ^ ^ • ^ ^ t •%

it is tlie weakest party in wild tribes courage and rccolonized an abandoned
which sides with us, for obvious purposes hamlet Called Mummoo, which is an

of their own, 1 may lierc mention that

out of the 400 sliares of land into wliich important outpost of Dcrsummund,

the land of Dersuninmnd is divided, tlio ,, p. c •• ^ ^ -\ ^

proprietors of only 30 pai.l their revenue "nd the rctractory taction hcadod by

with Eungee; while those of 370 stood Mullik Mulkhaio Or "the locust"
out aud were uned with Jilullihaie.

became sufficiently alarmed to come
in to Captain Henderson at Kohat and compound for tlier rebellion by
paying a fine of 1000 Rupees, in addition to the arrears of their
revenue.

4. — This left only the Toorees and the Zymooshts to be dealt with.

5. — The Toorees continued their raids in a very daring manner, and
excited popular indignation in one of them by murdering a little girl
of the Khuttuk village of Kurboga, because she would not mount
behind a horseman.

G. — On the 2ud of September Naryab, one of the most important
villages of Upper Meeriinzyo, was thrown into confusion by a deed of

[ 256 ]

cold-blooclecl atrocitj. Influence in Naryab had long been divided
between the rival families of Anar Khan and Bostan Khtin. Anar
Khan had strongly espoused the side of Government; and Avas
chiefly supported by his nephew Tumeez. This yonng man Avas a fine
specimen of a border yeoman, and I remember him in the expedition
of ] 855 on his large bay mare, with a tremendous lance, conspicuous
among the horsemen of the valley. He had been fitly selected by
Captain Henderson to be jemadar of the Meeranzye Sowars ; and in
that capacity, had shown a determination to enforce the orders of
Government among his countrjanen. He committed the two great
crimes of arresting criminals, and collecting revenue. This estranged
his own party and strengthened Bostan^s ; and Bostan seized upon the
opportunity to compass Tumeez's death. First an ambush of the
Mummazye hill men was tried ; but it failed. Domestic treachery was
then resorted to; and Tumeez was seized from behind by liis own
ploughman, a Zymoosht named Ali Shah, and stabbed deliberately
through and through from side to side, and from back to breast, by
his own cousin Alum Shah. Bostan and his followers had all been in
readiness, and immediately attacked Mullik Anar Khan, who was
taken by surprise and deserted. They pulled down his tower, and
became masters of the village.

7. — Naryab remained in rebellion till troops began to assemble at
Kohat for the expedition. Bostan and his accomplices then fled to the
hills, and a large body of Zymooshts from Torawuree helped thorn to
cany off their crops.

8. — On 22nd October, a force of nearly 5000 men (detailed in the
Troops. No. No. margin) rendezvoused

of men. of guns. ''

Detachment Peshawur monntain train, 56 4 at HungOO in Lower

Ditto K„. I P„.J»b Lt. KoM^^Batte,,, ..........,.^59 4 Mcoran.yo, undor the

4Mi Punjab Cavalry, 4u7 0 personal Command of

Petacliment Ist ditto, 'J7 ^ -r> • t at -n

Khuttuk Sowars of Khwajuh, Muhammad Khan, 150 0 Brigadier JNevlile

])etaehme.it^6Gth Goorkhas, 680 0 Cliamberlain,and there

1st Punjab Infantry, 77» 0 '

2nd ditto ditto, 'J'69 0 I joined the expedition.

3rd ditto ditto, 747 0 ,, , «. • ,

6th ditto ditto 688 0 13.— A more elhcieut

No. 2 Coun^any Punjab Sappers, 40 0 ^ ^^ ^^ , ^^^^_

European Olhcers, <1U U ' i

liitto Non-Commissioned ditto, 5 0 bers, perhaps uever

Native ditto 73 0

Brigadier and Staii;"".".* 4 0 took the field m In-
Grand Total, !a700 14 *1'^»; ^^^^ it is worth

[ 257 ]

observing, as illustrative of the Irregular system, tliat tliere were not
fifty Europeans in the camp.

2nd. — On the 23rd October the force marched to Togh, and on 24th
to Kahee, the border village of upper and lower Meerunzye, a great dif-
ference was perceptible m the feeling of the people. In ISoo, the walls
and houses had been covered with armed men. Now all was quiet, no
notice was taken of the arrival of the troops, and the men and women
of the village pursued their usual avocations. They had already paid
their revenue; and having defied no orders, seemed perfectly to under-
stand that they were safe, though 5000 soldiers were encamped under
their walls.

11. — Nothing had tended more to create this confidence, than the
strict discipline which Brigadier Chamberlain invariably enforced.

12. — At Kahee Captain Henderson received intelligence that a large
number of Meerunzye criminals had taken refuge in the village of
Torawurree, which the Chief Commissioner will remember is inhabited
by Zymoosht settlers from the hills north-west of Meerunzye. In the
expedition of 1 855, greater consideration had been shown to Torawurree,
than to any of the other villages, through the good offices of Khwajah
Mahomed Khan, the chief of Khuttuck, who, to gain the friendship
of the Zymoosht clan, went so far, I understand, as to pay the most of
the Torawurree revenue. In consequence of this prompt payment, the
force had then no occasion to encamp at Torawuirec even for a single
day. But, as usual, mild treatment was attributed to weakness; and
not only the Zymooshts, but their Bungush neighbours, came to regard
the tumble-down wall of Torawurree as an impregnable fortress. Hence,
every runaway blackguard in the valley, as our force again approached,
sought and received asylum in this redoubtable Zymoosht village.

13. — Amongst these refugees was a special rufliau named Meer, who
got his livelihood by catching Hindu traders in bypaths and hanging
them up by the heels till they were sufi'ocated into delivery of their
money. It was for the sake of paying off this gentleman that a
Bunya found courage to tell Captain Henderson of the criminals
hiding at Torawurree.

14. — It was at once decided to surprise them; and the plan was

secretly arranged between Brigadier Chamberlain, Captain Henderson

and myself: neither the officers of our own force nor the most friendly

chiefs in camp were informed. Orders were given out for the usual

2 L

[ 258 ]

uiarcli to Nnriab next morning. The Nuriiib road wa.^ reoonnoitered
by the engineers and improved by the sappers, and ground at Nuriab
was selected for the camp. The criminals of Nuriab no doubt con-
gratulated themselves that they were snug at Torawurrec.

15. — An hour before the time appointed in the order books, the
morning bugle sounded. The Brigadier's watch was supposed to have
gone wrong. It was pitch dark and bitter cold, and there was every
temptation to consider it a mistake. But Captain Adams, the staff
officer, came round and put the Brigadier's orders into the hand of
every commanding officer, and soon each troop and regiment was
hurrying to its place.

16. — From Kahee to Torawurree is about 9 miles, and for half the
distance the road is the same as that to Nurijib. Up to this point, the
whole force proceeded leisurely, and none but commanding officers
knew what was going to happen. Now, however, the troops broke
into two columns ; one keeping the road to Nuriab, and the other
striking off to Torawurree. The friends of the Zymooshts became uneasy,
but no man was allowed to go ahead.

The cavalry pushed as rapidly across the plain as its broken and
bushy surface would allow ; and it seemed almost hopeless to expect
that the resounding hoofs of the horses would not alarm the whole
country round ; but guided by the tall peak behind Torawurree, which
stood blackly out among the stars, we soon came upon the village and
found all still. Not a dog barked. The cavalry divided ; half going
round to the left, and half to the right ; and threw a long chain of
horsemen between Torawurree and the hills. Day faintly broke Avliile
this was doing, and the Zymooshts and their guests awoke to find them-
selves in a net.

17. — So entirely helpless were these boasters now, that not a sign of
resistance was made. The headmen were summoned from the villaire
to hear the terms dictated to them ; and unable to believe that the
plan had been kept secret from our most loyal Khans, they passionately
reproached Khwajah Mahomed Khan Khuttuck, iu our presence,
with not having saved them from such a day, by a word of timely
warning.

18. — We then told the Mullicks that we had come simply to appre-
hend the offenders, to whom they had given asylum ; and we allowed
half an hour for their surrender.

[ 259 ]

19. — Meanwhile two regiments of infantry and tlie mountain guns
came up^ and took their stations, ready to act, if wanted.

20, — The half hour expired without compliance.^ Messenger after
messenger was sent in to urge them ; and every forbearance was ex-
hausted. But the Zymooshts were sulky and dogged. They would
neither fight nor obey orders. At length they were warned to send
away their women and cliildren, as the guns were about to be opened.
Even this they would not do. The guns were opened with blank
cartridge, in hope of intimidating them, but without effect. At last
shells were thrown into the village ; and after about thirty rounds (to
which not even one Juzail replied) the women were seen bursting out
of the village and running towards our position, waving cloths, and
holding up the " Koran." The guns were instantly silenced, and the
women sent back to tell the men that they must now come out and lay
down their arms, or the battei'ies would re-open : slowly and angrily
they came out, and threw their swords, daggers, pistols, and muskets
down upon the plain, but only by twos and threes ; and still there was
no sign of giving up the criminals. A regiment of infantry was ordered
into the village to search for arms and refugees. A soldier was
wounded in a house, and the Zymoosht assailant killed upon the spot.
vStill the criminals were concealed. At length the stacks of winter
fodder for the cattle were fired ; and the wind carried the flames from
house to house, setting off loaded muskets that had been hidden in
the straw. Then, one by one, the criminals were brought ; each with
protestations that he was the last. But Captain Hcndersun had the
list of them in his hand, and patiently demanded the remainder. Last
of all came the villain Meer.

21. — The soldiers were then recalled from the village, and the

Zymooshts allowed to extinguish the flames, which had destroyed about

one-third of their houses. The arms*

* MittfliloL-ks, ''0 , , , ^ , -, ^ ^ ^-

S„oids, 170 that had been surrendered, and tno

^'*!'^^*' ^i thirteen criminals who had been cap-

Iviuves, » '^ '

Shields, 21) tured, wcre all sent off to our camp

aud man V more destroyed by fire. ^^ .,, -i -, ,^n -i , ^.^ .

at Nuriab ; and 100 hostages, witli two
or three hundred head of cattle, were also carried away as security,
till a fine of Eupees 2,000 shoakl be paid for the long-standing scores
of Torawurree.

22.— Two or three lives only were lost on the side of the Zymoosht ;
2 L 2

[ 260 ]

and none on ours. Two of our soldiers were wounded in the scuffles
in the vilhige.

23. — The prisoner Meer had an old counterpane given him for a
covering. Between the folds of it he found the bowl of an iron spoon,
with which he prized open his fetters in the night and escaped,
though several shots were fired at him as he ran. " His luck was
great \" said the natives, " for on reaching Torawurree he found a hoard
of plunder safe in the wall of his house, though the roof was burnt ;
and his wife delivered of a male child V

24. — The force halted at Nuriab from 25th October till the 4th
November, adjudicating cases, realising revenue balances, and con-
structing a new fort for the protection of Mullick Anar Khan and his
supporters ; at which the whole population of Nuriab were made to
work, as they had permitted Bostan to demolish the old man's tower. In
addition to this punishment, they were made to pay the revenue shares
of Bostan, and the thirty other partizans, who being more or less con-
cerned in the murder of Tumeez, had fled to the hills before our arrival.

25. — On the 4th November, we marched to Dersummud, every roof
in this powerful village was loaded with the produce of the autumn
harvest, and had not the refractory spirits made a timely submission
some weeks before, we should have inflicted immense loss upon them.

26. — On the 5th we pushed on to Thull, our frontier village, where
for three days we waited for some satisfactory communication from the
Deputy Governor of Koorrum, who had received orders long ago from
the Ameer of Cabul, to bring the headmen of the Tooree tribe to me in
Meerunzye ; there to answer for their own raids, and make any coun-
tercharges in their power against our subjects. I had myself written
from Meerunzye, to beg the Deputy Governor to do so ; but he seemed
unable or unwilling to carry out his instructions, and it only remained
for me to cross the Koorrum and exact satisfaction from the Toorees, as
ordered in para. 7th of Mr. Edmonstone's letter. No. 27 of 11th
August, 1856.

27. — This being decided. Brigadier Chamberlain formed a depot at
Thull, and placed all the sick and weakly men, spare camp equipage,
and superfluous camp followers therein, in a well chosen position on
some low detached hills, which the force in three days so fortified with
walls, that the 500 men left behind would have been secure against
any attack, though none was apprehended.

[ 261 ]

28. — On the 8tli November, the force crossed the Koorrum ; and
proceeding up the right bank through a country without a single
village, encamped at Sirakhoa, ten miles from ThuU.

29. — In this march, I first became aware that the lands of our
village of Thull are not limited, as I had supposed, almost entirely
to the left bank of the Koorrum, but extended to Sirakhoa.

30. — Here we found the well-known refugee Khuttuks of Dullund,
Mullick Ghilzye and his brother Meer Must, established in a thriving
village on the border of Koorrum, under the protection of the Toorees.
These men had, at my request, been pardoned by the Chief Commis-
sioner on condition that they left the Toorees (to whose raids they were
constantly giving the aid of their courage and local know^ledge,) and
settled down quietly in our territory. This condition they did not
fulfil, objecting to every plan which Captain Henderson proposed, and
showing a resolution to settle no where except in the neighbourhood
of Dullund. But they are believed to have entirely stood aloof from
the raids since they were pardoned ; and as this was the main point,
I felt reluctant to insist on their abandoning such good lands as I
found them enjoying. It afterwards appeared, however, that they were
by no means at ease among the Toorees, with whom differences had
lately arisen ; and before we left Koorrum, Ghilzye was very urgent
to be provided for elsewhere. The matter may well be left to work
itself out in Captain Henderson's hands.

31. — On the 9th November we mai'ched fourteen and half miles to
the Ziarut of Hazir Peer. We had now entered the valley of Koorrum.

32. — Here we met a Dooranee officer, deputed by the Deputy
Governor of Koorrum, to attend our camp. He said the Toorees were
'' perfect demons," and it Avas no wonder that Gholam Jan (the Deputy)
could not control them.

33. — Some chief men of the Toorees and Bungushes of Koorrum also
began to come in ; and behaved very politely. It became clear that
they had decided on not fighting till they saw what terms were to be
imposed. For the present they contented themselves with protesta-
tions of innocence, and loud complaints against our subjects.

34. — From this place we had a choice of two roads, one up the river
bank, through the cultivated country, and one over an upland waste
leading to the Durwazuh Pass, and so regaining the Koorrum river.
We chose the latter for our advance ; made a march of ten and half

[ 262 ]

miles on the 10th November to a suitable opening in the waste ; and
emerged from the Durwazuh on the 11th at a spot called Kote Meajee.

35. — Gholam Jan, the Deputy Governor, met us on the 10th. He
appeared to be, as we had heard, a debauched Dooranee, whom it was
impossible for the people to respect, and not often necessary to obey.

36. — The Durwazuh Pass road is for the first, or eastern half, a
splendid one for guns ; and in the second half, presents no difficulties
which are not removable by a working party going on in advance of the
artillery. But two cast iron axles of the nine-pounder guns were
broken in this march; and at first gave the officers of the force a
strong impression that nine-pounder guns must be too heavy for hill
countries, if they could not surmount so little formidable a road as the
one we had traversed. On examination, however, it proved that the
axles had both been cracked nearly through for a long time previously;
and on due consideration, I should say that it would be better to
provide each nine-pounder gun with a spare axle, than to deprive
a frontier force, whose duty it must often be to attack small forts and
hill side positions, of a piece so superior to the six-pounder in batter-
ing power, elevated range, and certainty of aim.

37. — We were now in Upper Koorrum, and the scene was a grand
one. Beneath our camp at the foot of the Durwazuh Pass ran the
deep blue river, rushing on as if it knew that it had two hundred
miles of cultivation yet to fertilize before it rested in the Indus.
Before us lay the valley about eight miles in breadth, shelving upwards
to the base of the " Sufed Koli" or white mountain, which here
springs abruptly from the plain, and rises to a height of about 15,000
feet above the sea. A veil of snow was thinly spread over its sum-
mit on the southern slope. (The northern side is, I believe perpetually
and deeply covered, and is conspicuous at Peshawur, above the Kliy-
buri-ange.) The distance was shut in by a spur running down from the
mountain at right angles to the river ; and we learnt that this was the
Peywar Pass to Cabul, of which wc had so often heard. The plain was
dotted here and there with Cheuar trees, which once must have been
noble ; but the Dooranee soldiers in the fort had lopped most of them
for firewood. Still they were a new and picturesque feature to eyes
accustomed to Indian foliage ; and the bracing cold of the climate, with
the thermometer below freezing point at night, and seldom reaching
summer heat at noon, gave us a sense of European (Mijoymcut.

[ 263 ]

38. — The valley of Koorrum is under the Government of Sirdar
Mahomed Azim Khan, one of the sons of the Ameer of Cabul ; and
is supposed to be controlled by a small rectangular mud fort in this
pai't of Upper Koorrum. The Deputy Governor wished us to encamp
near it ; and on proceeding- to the spot, I found Mahomed Sirwur
Khan, a son of Sirdar Mahomed Azim, about 12 years old, and
fairer than most European children, waiting to welcome us. His
carpets were spread under some trees by the side of a reservoir of
water ; and he did the honors of the reception with as much gravity
as if he had been a grey beard. His mother is a native of Koorrum,
of the Bungush clan, as was also the mother of Sirdar Mahomed
Azim Khan ; and it is good policy letting the boy grow up in this re-
mote valley, rather than at the court ; for it makes him hardy, and
enlists the feelings of the neighbouring races on his side in the event
of a civil war.

39. — The fort was originally only a walled enclosure : but a few years
ago the Toorees rose and destroyed it ; since which it was rebuilt and
surrounded with a fausse-braye and ditch. It is much out of repair,
and had only a garrison of about one hundred and fifty Jezailchees.

40. — Having thus arrived at the head-quarters of the local Govern-
ment, I proceeded to the business of the expedition. The Deputy
Governor brought up the headmen of the Toorees ; and Captain Hender-
son produced the plaintiffs from our border, supported by their re-
spective witnesses. Chiefs and Mullicks. We then heard openly before
the assembly every claim which our subjects had to bring against the
men of Koorrum ; to which the accused party was called on to reply.
Sometimes the Toorees totally or partially denied the claim, or declared
that the raid had been committed previous to the first settlement made
with them by Major Coke, (which was fixed as the limit of enquiry)
and these doubtful cases were set aside, to be subsequently decided by
the Mahomedan oaths which were mutually binding on the parties.
But in general the accusations were acknowledged not only without
shame, but with obvious relish and enjoyment ; and as a plaintiff
called over the list of his lost property, the Tooree robbers nodded assent
to article after article, and grinned at the recollection of its capture.
Occasionally when an old cloak, or turban, or weapon of any kind, was
over-valued, the thief would turn up his eyes with submission and
exclaim, "Tobah! Tobah 1" 0 shameful ! shameful! that worth two

[ 264 ]

rupees! " Hazarbar-tobah !" a thousand shames! is this justice?
The thing was absolutely worthless.

41. — When all the claims of our subjects had been heard, the Toorees
produced their counter-charges, which were similarly dealt with.

42. — Lastly, the doubtful cases were submitted to the ordeal of the
oath ; and I am afraid the Toorees were not over particular in reducing
their bill by this process. The most notorious perjury was, however,
received with profound gravity. It would have been scandalous to the
whole assembly to suppose that a Mahomedan could put his hand on
the Koran and lie. The utmost that any plaintiff ventured on when
sworn out of the field was a pinch of snuff and a sigh.

43. — There was one claim made by the Wuzeerees for five hundred
sheep carried off within the last two months, which the Toorees resisted
violently. " The Wuzeerees," they said, " ai-e not your subjects ; and
your honor is not concerned in their losses. We have been at war with
them for generations, and shall remain so for generations more. To
make us pay for Wuzeeree cattle is to put a knife to our very throats V
But the cattle had been carried off from our territory, and therefore
was under our protection, and I wished to estabhsh the principle that
the Toorees must not cross our border to rob any one. So I compromised
the matter by agreeing to take half the price of the Wuzeeree cattle
this once.

44. — Finally, the account stood thus.

1

2

3

4

5

6

Plaintiffs ....

Loss proved.

Reprisals and
remissions.

Balance due.

Realized in
Koorrum.

Guaranteed
by Deputy
Governor.

Khuttuks, .
Bungushes,
Wuzeerees, ..

6,959
6,771
3,279

12

10

0

0
0
0

2,731

reprisals.

60
reprisals.

],639
remission.

0
0
8

8

0
0
0

0

4,228
6,711
1,639

12

10

8

14

0
0
0

0

602

2,706

911

0
0
0

0
0
0

0

3,626

4,005

728

12
10

8

11

0
0
0

Total . .

17,010

6

0

4,430

12,579

4,219

0

8,630

0

The settlement of the first four columns, with all the incidental
disputes, occupied a week, and a day or two were then given to the
Toorees to arrange for payment.

45. — During this interval we determined to reconnoitre the Peywar

[ 265 ]

Pass; and at 3 A. M., on 21st November, Brigadier Chamberlain, Cap-
tain Henderson and myself, with a large party of officers, started for
that purpose. We were four hours, at a smart walk of the horses,
getting to the village of Peywar. There are two villages of this name,
upper and lower, the former having the irrigated, and the latter the dry
lands. The road to tliis point was across a hard plain, through no
cultivation. From Peywar to the crest, or " Kothul" of the pass, we
were one hour and forty minutes. Here we found a roofless tower
occupied by two armed Jajees, dignified with the name of the Ameer's
'Jlianah ! From the crest to the village of Lewunnee, at the Jajee foot of
the pass, we were half an hour. The total distance was estimated as
follows :

To the village of lower Peywar from the mouth of")
the Durwazuh pass 3

From lower Peywar to the crest 6 ditto.

On to Lewunnee at the (Jabul end of the pass 2 ditto.

Total 25 miles.

46. — The country rises all the way to Peywar ; but ra])idly from
I'eywar to the Kothul, up a shelving plain of loose stones, through a
jungle of dwarf oaks (ilex). The hill itself is thickly covered with
firs of many kinds. Captain Strachey of the 66th Goorkha regiment
collected specimens of six, among which were the deodar, the common
Hpruce, the juniper, and the cypress. The road up the Kothul was
choked with an immense caravan of wandering Ghilzyes with their
camels, sheep, goats and grand stern dogs. Children were perched on
the tops of the loads, and many women carried jezails over their
shoulders or swords in their hands. The ascent, as at present traced,
winds now and then so sharpU' as to prevent guns from being dragged
up by horses; but 9-pounders could certainly be dragged by hand up
the pass with facility ; and with a little making, the road would admit
of horses. Water flows down the pass all the way, indeed, both ways
towards the Koorrum and towards the Jajee countries, ice covered the
rivulets even at noon ; and some of our party made slides on the
top of the pass. The air was very bracing and cold, but not disagree-
ably so. We all had great coats on, and were glad to button them up.
From the crest to the Jitjee enti-auce is comparatively nothing ; the
2 M

[ 266 ]

Jajee valley being much higher than Koorrum. From a mouud near
the village of Lewunnee we looked over the Jajee country, here called
Huryab ; and many Jajees who had worked in the Engineer's Depart-
ment at Kohat, came up and asked " if there were any forts to be
built ?" Two or three thousand workmen could be got from them at a
few days' warning. The Peywar hill is dry and stony, and has no
underwood whatever. The timber on it is fine, but not of the largest
size. The dense black shade of the deodars under a bright blue sky,
and the boldness of some of the rocks, gave a grandeur to the scene
not unworthy of a gate to central Asia.

47. — The onward road to Cabul was said to be as follows for an
army :

From Peywar village to Alikheyl of the Jajees, about miles 16

To Sirkye alias Uzzrah of the Ghilzyes, „ 16

To Khwakee alias Khooshee of the Farseewans, „ 14

To Speersuug of ditto, „ 16

To Cab u], „ 16

Total miles,.

But we were told that for a horseman, or a cossid, it is only two
days' journey ; and an old Vakeel of the Ameers, who met me at the
pass, said afterwards that he had been five days coming to our camp,
but should return in three ; so I think the distance must be less than
calculated above.

48. — Besides the Peywar, there are two other Passes on this road to
Cabul, but of less importance ; and as far as I can make out from
description, quite insignificant in comparison to the Khoord Cabul Pass,
which lies between Cabul and the Khyber. The first is at Sirkye, so
called from its red earth. The second is before reaching Khwakee.
These two " Kothuls" with the space between them, are collectively
called the " Dobundee" pass, or the " Shootur Girdun" (camel's neck.)
It is very winding and narrow ; through a jungle of trees, which has
given this part of the road the additional name of " Hazar durukht,"
or thousand trees. I mention all those names, because tliey are very
puzzling to an enquirer till he finds that they refer to the same march.
And I should add that in the middle of the Shootur Girdun, about two
koss from Sii'kye (towards Cabul) there is a Ghilzj^e village called
Akhoond Kheyl.

[ 207 ]

49. — The elevation of the Peywar Pass was estimated by Captain
Strachey to be 7,0U0 feet above the sea, but as a hill, it is inferior to
the Kohat pass.*

50. — Its western slope belongs to the Jajee tribe ; its eastern to the
Toorees of Koorrura. But the Muuguls, who liv^e over the back of the
hill, have secured an interest in the pass by building a village called
" Mungul," at the northern side of the foot of the ascent from Koorrum.

51. — The Peywar Kothul is many miles to the north of the Koorrum
river ; but there is another road from the Koorrum valley to that of the
Jajees, which follows the course of the stream. It does not go up the bed
of the river but over another, " Kothul,'^ which is more difficult and
winding than that of Peywar. Sirdar Mahomed Azim Khan onl}''
brings his regiments by that road to Koorrum when the Peywar villages
are in rebellion.

52. — On the whole, this reconnoissance left on my mind no doubt that
though the actual roadway of the Khyber Pass may contain no ascent
so great as the Peywar Kothul, yet that the Peywar Pass would have,
for a British Indian army, the following advantages :

1st. — That it is a single hill to be fought up one side and down
the other, and there is an end of it. It would be an operation of a
few hours if well defended : whereas the Khyber has two full marches
of the most defensible ground in Affghanistan.

Sndly. — This route turns the whole of the Afreedee mountains —
experience has shown us that the Afreedees are the stoutest and most
blood-thirsty of the tribes on this frontier. We have had much colli-
sion with them, and the hostility has become inveterate. The people
of Koorrum have committed raids in Meerunzye ; but our expedition to
demand compensation led to no collision, and ended rather in good
feeling than otlierwise.

3rdly. — The route would lie through our own Kohat district as far as
the Koorrum countr}', so that our communications would be good. The
Koorrum valley is open, and atiords supplies of every kind. If going
up as enemies to Cabul, we should occupy the fort in Koorrum, and
make that another link in communication with ]\ohat.

53. — Were a large force going into Affghanistan, it must either

* Our camp in Koorrum hnd been found by actual experiment to be 4,500 feet above the
sea J and it was roughly calculated that the crest of Tuvwar was 2,500 t'c-et higher.

O

Z ^l z

■^ i

[ 2^« ]

niarcli througli the Kliyber in two divisions, as Generals Pollock and
Nott returned, or find another route for one column. Such a route is
afforded by the Peywar line ; and great strategical advantages in a war
might result from a double advance, dividing the resistance.

54. — It remains, however, to explore the rest of the Peywar route
from the Jajee valley to Cabul ; and this will to a great extent be
effected by Major Lumsden and Lieutenant P. Lumsden on their way
to Kandahar. We shall then be able not only to compare the Peywar
with the Khyber pass, but the passes above Peywar with those above
the Khyber, and so ascertain the merits of each line.

55. — The question occurs, " Why should armies have used the Khyber
pass, if the Peywar pass be easier V I have heard, that on one
occasion Nadir Shah did take the Peywar route, though I know of no
authority for the tradition. The Emperor Baber who several times
invaded Hindustan undoubtedly enumerates the Peywar route as one
of the four known to him. His words are, " from Hindustan there are
four roads which lead up to Cabul. One of these is by way of the
Lunghanat, and comes by the hill of Khyber, in which there is
one short hill pass; another road leads bi/ Bui/r/usJi ; a third by
Kaghz, and the fourth by Fermul. In all these roads there are passes
of moi'e or less difficulty. ^^ The Bungush country we know to consist
of Kohat and Hungoo, in our territory, and Koorrum in the Ameer's.
The Peywar hill is in fact the Bungush boundary. Tlie Toorees have
now got the better of the Bungush in Koorrum ; but the Bungush still
equal them there in numbers. Further on, in the same passage, Baber
writes that " Those again who cross'' (the Indus) " at Dinkot take the
Bungush road," which shews that the route was in common use. The
Editor says, "Dinkot is probably at or near the present Khooshialgurh."*

56. — In one part of this passage the Emperor says, that those who
take the Khyber route cross the Indus " at Nelab" (between Attok
and Khooshialgurh) adding, " that in the winter season, however, they
cross the river Siud, the river of Sewad,t and the river of Cabul,
above the conflux of this last river with the Sind.| In most of the

* For the text of tliese quotntions, see the " Events of the year 910" in the " Memoirs
of Zuhoor-u(l-deen Malionied liaber, Emperor of lliiidustiin, written bj himself in the
JaQ;hatai-Turki, aid translated partly by the lute John Leyden, Esquire, M. 1). partly by
William Erskine, Esquii'e, p. 140.

t The Swat river.

i The Indus.

[ 269 ]

expeditions which I made into Hindustan, I forded these rivers in this
way, but the last time when I invaded that country I crossed at the
Kilab passage in boats.* Except at the place that has been men-
tioned/' (that is above the conflux) " the river Sind can no where be
passed unless in boats." From this account it may be gathered that
one reason of coming by the Khyber or most northern route, was to
let the army ford all the rivers which unite at Attock, and if the season
did not allow fording, boats were procurable at Niliib, which was once a
place of importance, though now a ruin.

57. — But I should say that the chief reason why native armies
(which are not provided with commissariat) have usually taken the
Khyber route, is, that it leads through the more important valleys of
Jellalabad and Peshawur.

58. — Again, to Affghan armies rolling down to the plunder of the
Punjab and India, the Khyber was an open door, and its strength or
weakness a matter of no moment. To us it is a question of importance
in Avhich pass we should find the most determined enemies ; and there-
fore I have given it so much space in this report.

59. — The presence of Brigadier Chamberlain's force in KoorruTn
conferred no little strength on the Deputy Governor; for it was well
known, and we took care to give it out, that we came as friends, not as
enemies, of the Cabul government. Gholam Jan freely gave the people
to understand, that if they did not pay up their arrears of revenue, he
would be compelled to let our battalions loose on them ; and this spell
had such effect that he made a very good thing of our visit, and
instead of hastening the collections of our dues, attended chiefly to his
own. It is probable that we should have been detained many more
days in the valley by this manceuvre, had not the Ameer of Cabul him-
self interfered, and sent Akhoonzadah Soorajoodeen nominally as a
Vakeel to me, to beg me not to be too hard on the Toorees, but really
to Gholam Jan to make him dis])atch our business, and get us out of
the country before the Ameer left Cabul for Peshawur : thus urged, the
Deputy Governor agreed to march back with us towards Thull, collect
all he could on the road, and give us a note of hand for the balance,
which he would collect when troops reached him from Cabul. I would
rather have waited to collect the whole ; but being anxious to join the

* Going of course from Nao.shera over the Kliuttuk hills at Kunuakhejl, aa shown in
LieuteiKint Waliier's Map " as the old road to liiudustan."

[ 270 ]

Chief Commissioner in time for the meeting with the Ameer, which he
had led us to expect in the first week of December, I consented to this
arrangement; and on 2.3rd November we marched to Ibrahimzye,
twelve miles lower down the Koorrum river, on our way home.

61. — On the 24th we marched eleven and half miles to our old camp
at the Ziarut of Hazir Peer.

62. — Thus we found the distance from Hazir Peer in lower Koori'um, to
Kote Meajee in upper Koorrum, by the Durwazah Pass road was twenty-
one and quarter miles, while by the river route it was twenty-three
and half miles. The former is not only the shorter, but the easier line ;
as crossing and re-crossing the river is bad both for men and camels.

63. — Oq the 27th and 28th we made the old marches to Sirakhoa
and Thull, and were once more in our own territory.

64. — Here we met with our first casualty ; some Wuzeeree thieves
coming down and cutting up four grasscutters for the sake of carrying
off their ponies, which, after all, the pursuit prevented them from
doing. How this crime was punished, will be seen by Captain Hender-
son^s supplementary report.

65. — With the above exception, it is a singular fact that throughout
this expedition in which we surprised, disarmed, and severely punish-
ed, the most turbulent of all the villages of Meerunzye, aud marched
from our own frontier half way to Cabul for the avowed purpose of
exacting satisfaction from the predatory Tooree tribe, not only was no
opposition offered to us by day, but not a single shot was fired into
the camp by night. I attribute it to going in strength, and behaving
with moderation. It might have been the shortest way to the realisa-
tion of our demands, and it might have read a severer lesson to the
Toorees, had we entered into no enquiry or discussion, but taken all
we wanted by the sword. But it was impossible to do so. The Toorees
met us at once as friends, and during our stay among them, never
committed an offence against us. When we visited their pass, the
Mullicks of Peywar guided us over it, and feasted both officers and
men. In short they bore themselves like men, ready to defend
themselves if we attacked them, but desirous to keep on good terms
if possible ; something, too, was due (though after his conduct
perhaps not much) to the Ameer of Cabul. We were inviting him to
leave his capital and come down to Peshawur to meet us. It would
have harmonised ill with such a position of affairs to have fired one of

[ 271 ]

his vollej's and driven a whole tribe into rebeUion. The Deputy
Governor trembled for his revenue, which was already wretchedly in
arrears, and he often said, that if a blow were struck, every Tooree
would put his corn and mat upon a bullock, and march into the moun-
tains for the winter ; " and then,^^ said he, " where am I to get my
revenue from ?"

66. — Under these circumstances, I trust the more moderate course
that we adopted may be approved by the Chief Commissioner and by
Government, and bear fruit upon that frontier not unworthy of the
expedition.

67. — One peaceful, but very valuable, trophy I beg to lay before the
Chief Commissioner ; it is the enclosed beautiful and accurate map of
Koorrum and Mecruuzye, the joint labour of Lieut, Garnett of the En-
gineers, and Lieut. Peter Lumsden of the Quarter Master General's
department ; two officers, whose zeal in adding to our knowledge of the
border has, for several years, been conspicuous. A map like this, of
wild and rugged countries, is not accomplished without great personal
exertion, devotion, and self-denial ; and I venture to claim for these
indefatigable explorers the thanks of Government.

68. — Every opportunity was seized by Brigadier Chamberlain of
reconnoitering the Upper Zymoosth country, with his staff and officers ;
establishing the fact that it is accessible both from the Meerunzye
and the Koorrum side with much less difficulty than was previously
supposed. Sketches of these reconnoissances were made, for future
use, by Captain Walter Fane of the Punjab Irregular Cavalry, and
Leiutenants Garnett and Lumsden.

69. — The Chief Commissioner is aware that every year whole tribes
of independent Wuzeerees come down from their own mountains in Aff-
ghanistan to pasture their flocks and herds in the lowlands of Meerun-
zye and Khuttuk. The Chief of Khuttuk (Khwajah Mahomed
Khan) has always been in the habit, like his ancestors, of taking a
small tax from these interlopers called " Chuhl-o-yek" or " one in 40,''
usually however commuted to a money payment. As we had hterally
no administrative power in Meerunzye, we did not demand or receive
this tax ; but the Khan of Hungoo picked up a little from those within
his reach, and powerful zemindars were conciliated by a small present
called " Seekhkuwab," or the roasting spit. My attention was drawn to
it by hearing the following conversation between Mullick Bungee of

[ 272 ]

Dersummund in Meeruiizye and Mullik Malimood^ a Cabul Klieyl
Wuzeeree. (Bungee.) " Now that Meerunzye pays revenue, it occurs
to me that the soil is divided into arable and pasture land. We Bun-
gushes pay for the arable, and I propose that you Wuzeerees pay for the
pasture." (Mahmood.) " There are two crops on the earth, and two
kinds of men. You Bungushes have seen many governments, and you
have paid to them all. You are accustomed to it. Now, we Wuzeerees
have seen kings coming and kings going, but we never saw the king
that took revenue from us ["

I thought there was much justice on Bungee's side, and much
arrogance on Mahmood's ; and for the sake of marking that the coun-
try is ours, not theirs ; that they the Wuzeerees are admitted by favor,
not by right ; that they have come into territory at last where there
is government and law ; and that they must submit to it or go else-
where ; I instructed Captain Henderson to impose on the Wuzeerees
the same rates of grazing tax as (in spite of their boasting) they have
always paid to the Khans of Khuttuk. It has been already reported
(in para. 43 of this letter) how we recovered from the Toorees com-
pensation for Wuzeeree cattle stolen from our territory ; and I think
both sides of the question have been now put on the right footing.
A settled Government cannot permit one tribe of independent barba-
rians to exercise irresponsible rights within its border, and another
tribe to follow them up, and commit deeds of violence for which its
own subjects would be hanged or imprisoned.

70. — During the past year it had been found that the Meerunzye
sowars were useless against Tooree raids from being allowed to live in
their own separate villages ; and I therefore directed Captain Hender-
son to build a post for them at Gundiour, the point where Major Coke
and myself had formerly recommended that a fort, if deemed advisable,
should be located. Gundiour is a lui^h mound commandins!' an exten-
sive view of the country, with a spring of water at its foot. It is only-
three miles from the Khuttuk frontier village of Dulluud, and the one
can therefore help the other. It was formerly a hamlet of Dersum-
mund, but abandoned on account of feuds. The old stone wall still
remains, and has been made available by Lieut. Garnett, who kindly
undertook the construction. The work is nearly finished : towers have
been erected at two of the four corners of the wall, and one on the
mound in the centre ; also a large gateway that will admit ol" guns

i

[ 273 ]

being run in and fired from the centre mound. This gateway is also
to be the barrack of part of the garrison. The whole enclosure will
be capable of holding about 100 horse and 100 foot; but the usual
garrison is to consist of the 25 Meeranzye Sowars, 25 of Khwajah
^Nfahomed Khan's Khuttuck horsemen, and a few footmen drafted from
the Police of the District, as a temporary measure, till we can see
what is required.

71. — Should this arrangement be approved of, I request the Chief
Commissioner's opinion on the point whether the Khuttuck horsemen
on duty in the Guudiour Chowkee will be entitled to the pay of 4
annas each per diem, which has been fixed for them when employed
for more than a month beyond the Khuttuck country. In point of
fact, the Guudiour post is just a rifle-shot from the foot of the Khut-
tuck hills ; but the post is as much for the protection of the Khan's
Villages of Dullund, Kurboga, &c., as of the Meeranzye villages ; and
I do not myself think that the Sowars, while on this duty, will come
under the spirit of the order for daily pay. If, however, the Chief
Commissioner should think otherwise, the expense will be only Rupees
187-8-0 a month, or Rupees 2,250 a year.

72. — Captain Henderson has given the Jemadarship of the Meer-
anzye Sowars to Mahomed Ameen Khan, of the family of the chief
Tehseeldar of Hungoo, so as to strengthen their hands and extend
their influence ; and I am sanguine that this Gundiour post, without
the expense of a regular Fort, will be found a great assistance to the
Deputy Commissioner in administering Meeranzye.

7o. — I authorized Captain Henderson to apply the fines taken from
the refractory villages in this expedition, to the building of the post ;
and believe they will amply cover it.

74, — Lastl}', I have to solicit a reconsideration of our boundary on
the Koorrum side. The Chief Commissioner is aware that Upper
Meeranzye comprised, when we acquired it, the village of Billund Kheyl,
trans Koorrum ; but the Governor General of India, for the sake of a
distinct boundary, directed that Billund Kheyl should be given up,
and the British frontier line be drawn at that point on the Koorrum
river.* After the treaty negotiations of 1855 with Sirdar Gholam
Hyder Khan, this decision w^as communicated to him in reply to his

* See Paras. 4, 5, aud 6 of No. 3816 of 12tli December, 1851, from Secretary- to Govern,
meut to the Board of Adiuiuist ration.

2 N

[ 274 ]

inquiries ; and to remove doubt a pen-and-ink sketch was handed to
him, in which our boundary was so marked with red ink. The Sirdar
asked if his father might then consider all on the other side the Koor-
rum as liis ? We distinctly and carefully told him that we did not
make over Bill und Kheyl to him ; but simply left Billund Kheyl to
make its own arrangements. Then followed the Meeranzye expedition
of May, 1855 ; in which Major Coke, then Deputy Commissioner of
Kohat, was a warm advocate for the retention of Billund Kheyl, he
having received a petition from the Bungushes of Billund Kheyl that
they might not be excluded from our territory. On looking at the
border, I saw no reason for regretting this definition ; but, on the
contrary, thought it decidedly better to have given up Billund Kheyl
than to risk collision with the Vizeerees about its revenue.*

75. — In giving that opinion, I believed Billund Kheyl to be all that
we were giving up ; and I was not aware that the lands of our Cis
Koorrum village of Thull extend nearly 10 miles across the Koorrum,
I do not think that this was ever stated to me by Major Coke ; and on
reference to his letterf No. 30 of 8fcli April, 1855, (remonstrating
against the abandonment of Billund Kheyl,) I see that no mention is
there made of any portion of the land Trans-Koorrum, between
Billund Kheyl and the Cabul boundary, belonging to our village of
Thull. It is possible, therefore, that even Major Coke was not aware
of it, or he probably would have urged it as an additional argument for
keeping the old boundary.

76. — In this present expedition, (as stated in Para. 29) I found a
threshing-floor of the Thull men some miles across the Koorrum ; and
this first opened my eyes to the fact that, in giving up the Trans-
Koorrum, we had not simply given up Billund Kheyl, which we did
not want, but had dismantled Thull, which we professed to keep.
When therefore we were about to leave Koorrum, and the Deputy
Governor, by direction of his master Sirdar Mahomed Azim Khan,
asked me if he might proceed to claim revenue from Billund Kheyl,
I begged him not to do so, as I wished to report these circumstances
to my own Government, and take fresh orders upon thorn. The Deputy
Governor did not for a moment dispute the fact that the Thull
lands ran up to Sirakhoo, which is a march of 10 miles ; but he said

* See Paras. 42, 43, 44 of my first Mecraiizyo report No. C. lUli of Gth October, 1855.
t Copy of wliicli was uauLxcd to my former report.

[ 275 ]

that we had resigned the Trans-Koorrum^ and therefore he was at
Hberty to take it ; and rather than that the interests of Thull should
stand in the way, he would agree to purchase the Trans-Koorrum Thull
lands.

77. — To put all doubt at rest, however, I made enquiry from four
men of local influence, but of different interests, viz. :

1. — Mullick Ghilzye, our refugee Khuttuck subject, now settled at
Sirakhoo, among the Toorees of Koorrum.

2. — Mullick Kassim of Bulliameen, the chief Tooree in Lower Koor-
rum.

3. — Akhoonzadah Nujeeb-oollah of Billund Kheyl, who holds a
Jagheer under the Cabul Government.

4. — Akhoonzadah Huzrut Noor of Thull itself.

All these men concurred in testifying that —

Istly. — On crossing the Koorrum, you enter on land called " Bootah-
kuss,^' which is cultivated by the men of Thull to this day.

2ndly. — That beyond " Bootah-kuss,'^ lies " Tootee-kuss,^' which is
cultivated sometimes by Zymooshts, who then pay the Thull men a
share as proprietors of the soil ; and at other times liy the Thull men
themselves.

3rdly. — That beyond " Tootce-kuss," lies the land called " Isup-
perai," which is unirrigatcd and cultivated by no one.

4thly. — That above " Tootee-knss " lie the lands called " Akashooa
and " Ahmud Shamee" on the left and riglit banks of the Koorrum
river; and these join on to the Koorrum laud at Sirakhoa, which is
the boundary between Thull and Koorrum. These lands, however,
are cultivated by the Hotizye Zymooshts, who pay to nobod}'^.

78. — AVhen the Governor General in 1851 fixed our boundary on the
Koorrum, and ordered Billund Kheyl to be excluded. His Lordship
certainly did not know that he was dividing Thull in two ; and whether
Government now think it right to keep the new boundary or the old,
it is proper that I should submit these facts for consideration.

79. — In doing so, I beg to add that my own opinion is altered by
these new considerations ; that I think we ought not to give up the
lands of Thull, because the Thull people will not themselves on any
account give them up,* whether we do so or not ; and if we do give

* One of tlie two divisions of Bungiislies in Thull, (tlic Esupklicyl) is actually about
to remove to the other side of the Koorruiu, now that order is somewhat restored.

2 N 2

[ 276 ]

them up, the Cabul Government has declared its intention of taking
them, so that Thull will have two sovereigns, and whatever modei'ation
we show on this side will go into the pocket of the Affghans on the
other side ; so that the village must inevitably be ruined ; and as a
consequence from these premises, that if we keep the old Trans-
Koorrum boundary, as far as Thull is concerned, we had better keep
Billund Kheyl also. I had no time to consult the Chief Commissioner ;
and it was necessary to keep out the Koorrum authorities till this
question should be decided. I therefore took a single year's revenue
(either Eupees 1^000 or 1,200) from Billund Kheyl; and told Captain
Henderson to hold it in deposit till the pleasure of Government could
be known. At the same time, at the request of the people, a " Tuc-
cavee'^ advance of about half that amount was made to them for the
purpose of restoring some old irrigation canals, which had been
abandoned from feuds, and which, under the present improved aspect
of affairs in this corner, they are now prepared to re-construct ; so
that the cash account between us will be very simple and easy of
settlement, should Government not approve of adhering to the ancient
boundary of Meeranzye and Koorrum. On this point, however, I beg
to solicit orders.

80. — On the 30th November, I took leave of Brigadier Chamberlain,
to repair to Peshawur ; and made over the political duties to Captain
Henderson, who will furnish a supplementary report of the operations
of the last two or three weeks that the force was in the field.

81. — In closing my own report, I have great pleasure in assuring
the Chief Commissioner, that all I have seen of Captain Henderson's
administration of the Kohat District, his judicious management of the
tribes bordering on it, and his arrangement for the supply of the force
in the field, has caused me the very greatest satisfaction. A marked
improvement in the tone of Meeranzye has taken place during the
past year ; and I believe that a sound and right policy is being steadily
pursued.

82. — Subjoined are a few notes on the Koorrum valley and its people.

I have, &c.,
(Signed) H. B. EDWARDES,

Commissioner.
Pcsltaivur Division, Gommr.'s Office,
htli February, 1857.

APPENDIX.

Some Notes on the Valley of Koorrum and its people.

Isfc. — Koorrum is a moclern name borrowed from the river that flows
through it. The old name was Bungush, from the tribe that possessed it.
Bungush was divided into " Ooleah" or Upper, extending from the Peywar
Pass to Billund Kheyl, and " Siflah" or Lower, extending from Billund
Kheyl to Gundialye below Kohat.

2nd. — The Emperor Baber in his memoirs of the year 910 Hegira, (Anno
Domini 1504) enumerates Bungush as one of the fourteen " Toomuns" or
Provinces then dependant on Cabul ; so that the settlement of the Bungush
tribe is of very ancient date.

3rd. — Upper Bungush, however, or Koorrum, is now less the property of the
Bungush than of the Toorees.

4th. — The Toorees are " Koochees," or a wandering tribe. Their seat was
at Neelab on the Indus, and they moved to and fro between that point and
Cabul, with tlieir flocks and herds. By the Bungush accounts it was about
four generations back when the Toorees first took root in Koorrum. The Bim-
gush had rebelled against their Cabul sovereign, who sent a force, reduced them,
and imposed on them a tux ; to pay which they sold the village of Burrookye
near Peywar, to the Toorees. After that the Toorees got Peywar by another
bargain, by which they were bound to supply Ussud Khan, a Bungush chief
of Thilufzan, with wood. Thus, little by little, the Toorees availed themselves
of Bungush dissensions to seize new villages, until the Bungushes say they
liave now only the villages of Shilufzan and Zeran, under the hills, and Uzza
Kheyl in the plains, which are free. The rest of Koorrum is in the hands of
the Toorees, who have reduced the Bungushes to the condition of " hum-
sayuhs" or dependants.

5th. — Every Bungush is obliged to attach himself to a powerful Tooree,
who is called his " naick," and who protects him from other Toorees.

6th. — If a Bungush leaves a son or a brother, the property is generally
allowed to descend by inheritance ; but often not, the Bungush naick declar-
ing it a lapsed estate.

[ 278 ]

7th. — There is war between the Toorees and Bungushes of Shilufzan and
Zcran ; but tlie latter are strong from numbers and situation, and hold their
own. But no man of theirs can travel about the rest of Koorrum without
taking a Tooree " budrugga" or safe-conduct.

8th. — Still the conquered Bungushes outnumber the conquering Toorees,
as will be seen below : —

Bungush.

Toorees.

Villa2;e or Parish.

Numbers.

Division.

Numbers.

Sliilufzan,

2,000
1,500

200
120
lUO
200

1 1,500

1. Goondee Kheyl,

1,000

Zeyran,

2. Alizye,

500

Bogukkee (of FuttehooUah

Khan,)

Jalundur,

3. Mustoo Kheyl,

1,000

4. Humza Khevl,

1,000

5. Dopuzzve

1,500

Shukkurdurrah,

Azee Khevl,

Bulliameen,

Mukkazye,

Buijzve

Total,

5,G20

Total

5,000

9th. — It will be observed that the Toorees are divided into 5 branches ;
(" Puiijpudree," or five-fathered, they call themselves ;) and when they first
got possessions about the Peywar pass, they parcelled each out into 5 equal
portions, to each branch a portion ; a custom which they have strictly follow-
ed with each successive acquisition in the valley, without any reference to
the comparative numbers of the 5 brandies ; and possession continues in this
manner at the present day, except in individual cases of sale or other volun-
tary transfer.

10th. — Tliose Toorees who chose, took to building houses on their hinds, but
there are still a large number who remain " Koochees," living in tents all the
year ; in winter about Buliameen (in Lower Koorrum), and in summer in the
Sufeyd Koh.

11th. — Subjoined is a statement of the sub-divisions of the 5 branches of the
Tooree tribe and the number of fortified villages in which they are settled.

[ 279 ]

Branch.

Guudee KJiejl,.

Alizye,

Mustook Xhcyl,

Humga Khcjl,.

Dopuzzyc, .

Five branches.

Sub-divisions.

N umber

of
Forts.

1. Alum Kheyl, .. ..

2. Roostum Kheyl, . .

3. Esau Kheyl, ....

4. Eesup Kheyl, . . . .

5. Mahmood Kheyl,

6. Nuuder Kheyl, . .

7. Sumsee Khev], ..

8. Toneh Kheyl, ....

9. LaikKhoyl,

10. MeerwuUee,

11. Alizye,

1. Mooluk Kheyl, . .

2. ChogeKlieyl,

3. Shermo Kheyl, ..

4. Musree Kiieyl, . .

5. Khodadad Kheyl,

6. Mayeh Kheyl, . . . .

1. Feroz Kheyl, .. ..

2. MullaKole,

3. Boogeh Kheyl, ..

4. Uzzee Kheyl, .. ..

5. Murroo Kheyl, ..

6. (Wanting,)

7. Dreywundee, .. ..

8. Joonee Kheyl,* ..

9. Tui-kal Klicyl,* ..

10. Ghureebzye,* ....

11. Munna Kheyl,* ..

12. Seen Klieyl,

1. Speen Kheyl,*.. ..

2. DiTvplareh',* ....

3. Aka Kheyl,* ....

4. Janoo Klieyl,*.. ..

5. Buddee Kheyl,*..

6. Puree Kheyl,*.. ..

7. Kheshgee,

8. Shukoor Kheyl,*..

9. Shuttce Kheyl,*..

10. SirraguUah,* ...,

11. Jajce*

Shiblan,

Sooroh Kheyl,.. .. .
Meeandad Kheyl, .
Meerdad Kheyl, . . .
Dowlut Kheyl, . . .
Keemeh Kheyl, . . .
Dreyplareh,

8. Tar Kheyl, t .

9. Khirlussee,

10. Poi Kheyl,

11. Umbur Kheyl,

12. Kuch-keena Kheyl,.

13. Jaffir Kheyl,

45

31

27

60

53 Sub-diTisions.

Number
of
Men.

1,000

500

1,000

1,000

1,500

170

Forts.

5,000
men.

N. B. All those Sub-divisious marked M'ith au asterisk thus* are " Koochees" with uo
fixed rcsidcucus.

[ 280 ]

12fch. — The Deputy Governor told me that the revenue fixed on the
Koorrum valley is 1,20,000 Cabulle Rupees, but that he collected 1,40,000.*
Syud Meerza Gool, the most powerfurand intelligent man in Koorrum, told me
that the revenue under the Kings of Cabul was always reckoned as follows : —

Koorrum was declared to be 29 miskals. One miskal equals 1,440 Jureebs.
Three hundred and sixty Jureebs are consequently a " pao" or ith, and each
" pao" was assessed at Rupees 600 Cabulie. At this rate, 29 miskals would
give a land tax of Rupees 69,600, which was the olden revenue. The
Baruckzyes have, however, raised it by various devices.

Firstly, there is the " Jezzia" tax, 3 Rupees a year on every Hindoo person ;
and 3 Rupees a year on every house of artisans (Mahomedans.)

Secondly, there is the " Doodh," or chimney tax of 1 Rupee a house per
annum, which is a permanent fine on the people for destroying the fort.

Thirdly, all waste lands (called Meerat) belong to the crown, and if any
one chooses to cultivate them, he pays in kind ^rd of produce, the cultivator
providing himself with every thing. (In exposed places on the border ^th is
taken ;) Meerza Gool declared that one half of Koorrum had been escheated as
" Meerat."

13th, — The present mode of assessing the lands in Koorrum which are not
" Meerat" is this ; a Jureeb measure is fixed at 25 spans of a man's arms
square ; and every Jureeb of land pays R. 1-8-0 Cabulie in cash. On every
5 Jureebs an extra rupee is put, and called " Soorsant."

14th. — Meerza Gool considered the valley to be easily capable of yielding
one lakh of revenue per annum to a good government ; now more is taken
with violence and wrong. He said there was no sort of justice administered,
and that the Deputy Governor (Gholam Jan) himself causes people to be
assassinated. All wood and grass consumed in the cantonment is brought by
the people without remuneration.

15th. — Meerza Gool said he was deputed by the Tooree Jeergah or council
to say that whenever we wished to take their country they were ready to
welcome us.

16th. — The Toorees are all of the Sheah sect, and this is a constant source
of resentment between them and their Dooranee rulers. Koorrum used to be
under the six brothers Ukbur Khan, Ghulam Hyder Khan, Shere Alii Khan,
Mahomed Ameen Khan, Mahomed Shureef Khan, and Ukrum Khan, sons
of the Ameer ; but they bullied the Toorees so, on the score of their being
Sheahs, that the Toorees petitioned the Ameer to change them, and the country
was made over to Mahomed Azim Khan.

* In the same way lie said the I'cveuue of the adjoining valley of Khost is Itupees
70,000 but he collects Rupees 80,000.

[ 281 ]

17th. — On one ocoaslon the Toorees defeated Shore Alii Khan, and Mahomed
Ameen Khan, and killed 500 Dooranees, on the Jajee horder ; and would have
killed more, had not a nephew of Khan Shereen Khan, named Sooltan Ahniiid
Khan, a Kuzzilbash and Sheah, come between them, and begged for quarter.

18th. — When the Tooree thieves were lurking about the Dooranee camp to
steal horses, the Kuzzilbashes used to call out from inside their tents the
Sheah war cry, " Yah Alii ! Yah Hjder !" on hearing which the Toorees left
that part of the camp, and went on to plunder the Atfghans.

19th. — The Bungush join the Toorees in all wars, but not often in raids.
If they are summoned and fail to join, they are fined when the expedition
is over.

20th. — Snow falls in Koorrum about the middle or end of December, and
lies two months on the ground about three feet deep. On the Peywar Kothul
it lies as deep as a man's shoulder ; but the pass is never closed. Traffic keeps
it open : the Dooranee troops come over it when the snow is on it.

21st. — The chief crop of the Koorrum is rice, and one Jurceb yields
7^ Peshawur maunds. Next to rice comes wheat; one Jureeb yields 80
" tuttees."* Then comes the cotton crop ; of which one Jurceb yields IGO
seers (of 85 Cabulie liupees to the seer). Selling prices are: —

Cotton per Rupee, ... 8 or 10 seers.

Wheat, ditto, 20 "tuttees."

Barley, ditto, 40 ditto.

Jowar, ditto, 25 ditto.

Only the Yizeerees buy and eat Jowar. The fruits are apples, pome-
granates, walnuts, umlok, melons, quinces, apricots and excellent grapes.
But the soldiers have spoilt the gardens. The vegetables are pumpkins,
cucumbers and turnips.

22nd. — The Toorees are not in general large men, and their dark com-
plexions mark their Eastern origin ; but they are strong, hardy, and cou-
rageous. The dress of the common people consists simply of a Idanket shirt.
As horsemen, they are as superior to their neighbours, as the Yizeerees are on
foot. A mounted Tooree is a perfect model of a moss-trooper ; his horse is
small, but active and enduring, and carries his own clothing under the saddle,
while at the saddle bow in leathern wallets hang food for man and horse,
spare shoes, nails and a hammer in case of accidents, and an iron peg and rope
to picket the horse any where in a moment. The object of horsemanship
with them is to commit distant and daring raids, rather than for defence, and
any distinguished highwayman earns the honorable title of a "Cluck!" or
crack man. The present " Clucks" of Koorrum are : —

* 3 tuttees eqxial 5 seers of Peshawur vreiglit.

2 o

[ 282 ]

1. Nuzzuree, Alizye.

2. Timoor, Mustoo Klieyl.

3. Meer Hoossein, Dopuzzye.

A profusion of arms cover every laorsemau ; one or two short brass bound
carbines at bis back, two or three pistols and knives of sizes and sorts all
round his waist belt, and a sword by his side. The introduction of " revol-
vers" would save them a good deal of weight.

23rd. — I asked Meerza Grool to tell me who were the worst enemies of the
Toorees. He said — " Vizeerees, Khuttucks, Zymoosht, Alisherzye, Mussooz^'e,
Parye, Ningrahar, Jajee, Mookbul, Myndan Jajee, Khooties, and, above all,
the Naib ! (Meaning Gholam Jan, the Deputy Governor).

(Signed) H. B. EDWARDES,

Commr. Sf Superintendent.
.Feshawur Division, Commr^s Office,
"itli Felrmry, 1857.

m:x

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