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MISSISSIPPI-MISSOURI. 


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PHIIiADEIiPHIA: 

J.   B.   LIPPINCOTT   COMPANY. 

1891. 


MISSISSIPPI-MISSOURI. 


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PHILADELPHIA: 

J.   B.   LTPPINCOTT    COMPANY. 

1891. 


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Copyright,  1891,  by  J.  B.  Lippincott  Company. 


MISSISSIPPI-MISSOURI. 


Mississippi-Missouri.  The  Mississippi  River  (Al- 
gonkin  Missi  Sipi,  '  Great  River'),  the  largest  river  of 
North  America,  is,  with  its  tributaries,  wholly  within 
the  boundaries  of  the  United  States.  It  drains  most  of 
the  territory  between  the  Rocky  and  Alleghany 
Mountains,  embracing  an  area  of  1,257,545  sq.  m.,  or 
more  than  two-fifths  of  the  area  of  the  United  States. 
This  basin  includes  the  minor  basins:  Lower  Missis- 
sippi, 65,646  sq.  m. ;  Red  River  92,721;  Arkansas 
184,742;  Missouri,  527,690;  Upper  Mississippi,  179,- 
635  ;  Ohio,  207,1 1 1.  Besides  the  four  tributaries  here 
named,  there  are  forty-one  others  navigable,  and  200 
more  of  moderate  size.  The  total  length  of  the  Missis- 
sippi is  296omiles,  of  which  2 161  are  navigable ;  but  the 
Missouri  affluent  (see  below)  is  longer  than  the  Upper 
Mississippi,  and  with  the  lower  river  gives  a  total  of 
4200  miles.  The  total  navigable  waters  amount  to 
16,090  miles. 

The  source  of  the  Mississippi  is  Lake  Itasca  in  the 
north-west  central  part  of  Minnesota,  about  7  miles 
long  by  I  to  3  wide,  which  has,  however,  several 
feeders,  the  principal  being  Elk  or  Glazier  Lake.     The 


4  MISSISSIPPI-MISSOURI. 

remotest  springs  of  Itasca  rise  in  47°  34'  N.  lat,  and 
95°  20'  W.  long.,  and  are  1680  feet  above  sea-level. 
As  it  issues  from  this  lake  the  Mississippi  is  about  12 
feet  wide  and  18  inches  deep.  Through  pine-forests 
and  swamps  for  hundreds  of  miles  it  winds  from  lake 
to  lake,  with  frequent  rapids  and  picturesque  falls,  until, 
1200  feet  wide,  at  the  city  of  Minneapolis  it  plunges 
over  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony.  This  point  is  the  head 
of  river-navigation,  though  in  various  reaches  above 
small  steamboats  ply.  After  receiving  the  St.  Croix, 
the  Mississippi  becomes  the  boundary  between  the 
states  of  Minnesota,  Iowa,  Missouri,  Arkansas,  and 
Louisiana  on  the  right,  and  Wisconsin,  Illinois,  Ken- 
tucky, Tennessee,  and  Mississippi  on  the  left.  Its 
frequent  rapids  within  Minnesota  are  due  to  the 
granite  bed,  but  sandstone  prevails  farther  down,  to 
Rock  Island,  Illinois,  On  the  Wisconsin  boundary 
the  river  expands  into  Lake  Pepin,  and  thereafter,  fully 
a  mile  wide,  flows  between  bluffs  200 and  300  feet  high, 
and  sometimes  through  dense  forests.  At  Rock 
Island  there  are  rapids  with  22  feet  of  fall,  and  1 25  miles 
farther  down  are  the  Des  Moines  rapids  with  24  feet 
of  fall.  Around  these  obstructions  to  navigation 
the  United  States  government  has  constructed  ship- 
canals.  The  entrance  of  the  turbid  Missouri  produces 
a  marked  change  in  the  character  of  the  river;  for 
several  miles  the  diverse  waters  refuse  to  mingle,  the 
Missouri's  muddy  tribute  taking  the  right  bank  and 
the  Upper  Mississippi's  clear  stream  the  left.  When 
the  union  is  complete,  the  whole  river  has  henceforth 
a  light  yellowish  colour,  modified  somewhat  by  the 
Ohio's  greenish  water  and  more  by  the  reddish  water 


MISSISSIPPI-MISSO  URL 


5 


of  the  Arkansas  and  Red.  From  the  mouth  of  the 
Ohio  the  trough  of  the  Mississippi  is  about  4470  feet 
wide,  but  as  it  approaches  the  Red  it  is  narrowed  to 
3000  feet,  and  at  New  Orleans  is  2500  feet.  The  usual 
depth  of  the  channel  southward  from  the  Ohio  is  from 
75  to  100  feet,  and  its  surface  is  sometimes  higher  than 
the  country  beyond  its  banks.  In  fact,  from  the 
Missouri  to  the  Gulf  the  Mississippi  rolls  in  serpentine 
course  through  vast  alluvial  tracts  or  '  bottoms,'  whose 
width  varies  from  30  to  150  miles.  Their  total  area, 
including  those  along  tributary  streams,  is  variously 
estimated  from  29,790  to  41,193  sq.  m.  Though  of 
unsurpassed  fertility,  scarcely  one-tenth  of  these  lands 
are  cultivated  owing  to  the  dangers  of  the  annual 
overflow.  The  melting  of  the  ice  and  snow  in  the 
upper  basin  swells  the  lower  current  from  March  to 
June.  Levees  or  embankments,  largely  built  by  the 
government,  now  extend  for  more  than  1600  miles. 
Between  the  Ohio  and  the  Red  rivers  extraordinary 
floods,  rising  from  47  to  5  i  feet,  occur  about  once  in  ten 
years,  making  '  crevasses'  in  the  levees,  and  doing 
immense  damage.  In  these  great  floods  the  river  has 
been  known  to  spread  over  a  tract  of  1 50  miles.  Below 
the  Red  River  the  waters  are  discharged  through 
numerous  '  bayous'  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The 
main  channel  runs  south-eastward,  and  finally  divides 
into  five  or  six  passes,  the  principal  being  the  south, 
the  north-east,  and  the  south-west;  the  last  is  in  28° 
58-5'  N.  lat.  and  89°  10'  W.  long. 

The  mean  velocity  of  the  Lower  Mississippi  is  2)^ 
miles  per  hour.  The  yearly  discharge  into  the  Gulf  is 
nearly  145  cubic  miles ;  the  sedimentary  matter  carried 


5  MISSISSIPPI-MISSOURI. 

with  this  would  form  a  prism  i  mile  square  and  263 
feet  high,  while  the  amount  pushed  along  the  bottom 
of  the  channel  would  make  another  i  mile  square  and 
27  feet  high.  These  vast  deposits  and  the  constant 
changes  caused  by  floods  tend  to  embarrass  the  entrance 
to  the  great  river.  To  keep  an  open  channel,  at  least 
20  feet  deep,  Captain  Eads  (q.v.)  contracted  with  the 
United  States  government  to  erect  and  maintain  a 
system  of  jetties  at  the  South  Pass.  The  construction 
was  begun  in  1875,  and  has  proved  highly  successful, 
a  depth  exceeding  30  feet  having  been  maintained. 
The  mouth  of  the  Mississippi  is  essentialy  tideless. 

The  principal  cities  on  the  great  river  are  Minne- 
apolis, St.  Paul,  La  Crosse,  Dubuque,  Keokuk,  Quincy, 
Hannibal,  St.  Louis,  Memphis,  and  New  Orleans,  at 
several  of  which  the  river  is  crossed  by  railway 
bridges.  The  steel  bridge  at  St.  Louis  is  the  most 
southern,  besides  which  another  was  connected  at  the 
same  city  in  18^0. 

See  Humphrey's  and  Abbot's  Physics  and  Hydraulics  of  the  Missis- 
sippi Kiver  (Phih.  l86i),  and  Commerce  and  N'avigation  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi (Washington,  i8S8). 

Missouri  River  ('  Big  Muddy'),  the  principal  branch 
of  the  Mississippi  River,  is  formed  by  the  confluence 
of  the  Jefferson,  Gallatin,  and  Madison  rivers,  at 
Gallatin  City,  Montana,  4132  feet  above  the  sea-level. 
These  rivers  rise  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  close  to  the 
sources  of  the  Columbia  and  Colorado  rivers,  and  to 
the  Continental  Divide.  The  Madison  has  the  remotest 
source  in  a  small  lake  of  the  same  name  in  Yellow- 
stone National  Park  in  Wyoming,  44°  19'  N.  lat.  and 
110°  50'  W.  long.,  at  an  elevation  of  7632  feet.     This 


MISSISSIFPI-  MISSO  UR  /.  7 

river  flows  north-west  and  north  to  the  junction  of  the 
Three  Forks.  The  Missouri  then  flows  northward, 
skirting  the  main  range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and, 
after  passing  through  a  gorge  called  '  The  Gate  of  the 
Mountains,'  turns  to  the  north-east  and  reaches  Fort 
Benton,  the  head  of  navigation,  225  miles  from  Galla- 
tin City.  About  40  miles  above  Fort  Benton  are  the 
Great  Falls,  where  the  river  descends  327  feet  in  15 
miles  by  a  series  of  cataracts,  the  highest  having  a 
perpendicular  fall  of  87  feet.  From  Fort  Benton  the 
course  is  easterly,  the  river  being  flanked  by  bluffs 
about  a  mile  apart  until  it  passes  the  rapids  400  miles 
below,  when  the  valley  opens  to  a  width  of  10  miles. 
The  Milk  River  is  its  first  large  tributary,  but  at  the 
boundary  of  North  Dakota  the  still  larger  Yellowstone 
joins  it.  The  Yellowstone  also  rises  in  the  National 
Park,  and  flows  at  first  over  cataracts  and  through 
canons  until  it  emerges  in  a  more  level  country.  It  is 
1 1 52  miles  long,  and  has  the  general  characteristics  of 
the  Missouri.  From  its  junction,  which  is  the  head 
of  navigation  in  low-water  season,  the  Missouri  flows 
through  North  Dakota,  east  and  then  south-east  to 
Bismarck  ( 1610  feet  above  sea-level),  where  it  is  crossed 
by  the  splendid  bridge  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Rail- 
road. Through  South  Dakota  the  south-easterly 
course  continues  to  Sioux  City,  whence  flowing  south 
the  river  becomes  the  boundary  between  Nebraska 
and  Kansas  on  the  right  and  Iowa  and  Missouri  on  the 
left.  On  receiving  the  tributary  Kansas  the  stream 
turns  to  the  east,  and  flowing  across  the  state  of 
Missouri  pours  its  muddy  waters  into  the  channel  of 
the    Mississippi,    20    miles    above    St.    Louis.      The 


8  MISSISSIPPI-MISSOURI. 

Missouri  is  3047  miles  long,  of  which  2682  are  called 
navigable,  but  owing  to  its  tortuous,  treacherous,  and 
obstructed  channel  navigation  is  attended  with  great 
risks.  The  growing  cities  on  its  banks  forsake  the  use 
of  the  river  for  commercial  purposes  and  depend  on 
the  railways.  In  1866  there  were  seventy-one  steam- 
ers in  active  service  in  that  part  within  the  state  of 
Missouri,  but  twenty  years  later  the  number  had 
diminished  to  seven  steamers  and  three  tow-boats. 
The  chief  towns  on  the  banks  are  Bismarck,  Yankton, 
Sioux  City,  Omaha,  Council  Bluffs,  Nebraska  City,  St 
Joseph,  Atchison,  Leavenworth,  and  Kansas  City. 


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