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/^(.V4s6S.ot'i5
V- ■ ^ K
^orbacb CoOege Itbrarp
FROM THE
GEORGE B. SOHIER
PRIZE FUND
nil lURPun iHCOMi or thu fvhd
GIVIH Vr WALDO HIOCIMION (CUAM
OF 1S33} IN MIMOKr OF CIOKCI
■KIHMIK lOKIIR (CLAH OF ISU)
U TO >■ IXPINOID FOR ■OOU FOK
ni UHAKT
.Vr
MODERN ABYSSINIA
(.'
MODERN ABYSSINIA
AUGUSTUS B WYLDE
LATI VlCK-COHkUL FOK RKD SEA
AITTHOH OW "'B) TO 'if IN THB WUDAM"
WITH FROHTISPIECE AND A MAP
METHUEN & CO.
36 ESSEX STREET W.C.
LONDON
1901
o
MODERN ABYSSINIA
AUGUSTUS B. ^YLDE
LAta vicK-coHntL nw ked sea
Airmiu OF " '»3 to 'S7 w thb soudan "
WITH FRONTISFIECS AMD A UAP
METHUEN & CO.
36 ESSEX STREET W.C.
LONDON
1901
II- ■", ■■ ■"
■ \
V
"J ■' ' ■■ I
CONTENTS
CHAF.
I. iNTRODUCnOM
II. Abyssinian History
III. Abvssinian HiSTORY—amtiiiued
IV. Geographical Notes
V. Italian Caufaicn ih 1896
VI. Fxou Asmara to Adi-Quala
VII. AxuM
VIII. ADOWA and ASBI ADD! .
IX. The Battle of Adowa .
X. Buildings and their Inhabitants
XI. Agriculture and Domestic Animals
XII. Ras Mangbsha
XIII. Macalle ....
XIV. Socota and Waag Province .
XV. Lasta Province ,
XVI. Yejju AMD Ras Woue
XVII. WoLLo Country and the Gallas
XVI II. Shoa
XIX. Adbse-Ababa
XX. Shootinc IK Abyssinia and on its Borders
XXI. OurriT and Rifles . . . .
1
14
47
76
93
133
'3S
167
"96
336
356
383
399
3i«
343
3SS
37S
403
4t6
435
457
Appendices
Index.
471
499
MODERN ABYSSINIA
CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTION
THE attention, not only of England, but that of the whole
Englisli-speaking race, as well as most of tlte continental
Powers, has been so repeatedly drawn during tlie last few
years to Abyssinia and it^ present ruler King Mcnclck, ttiat
I have been asked by many people, both friends and com-
parative strangers, to publish what I know about the country.
In the following pages 1 hope to be able to contribute some
little information about the inhabitants and their customs,
and what they have done during modern times which may
prove interesting, as the time is not far distant when more
stirring events may be looked forward to in the nortb-castem
portion of Africa in which Abyssinia must t<ike itn important
part, and there can be no doubt that the people of this
country mu^t eventually, cither by peaceful or warlike means,
take their place in the new era of civilisation now happily
commencing to dawn over a land too long neglected and
misunderstood by those that have its future in their keeping.
I apologise to my readers by commencing with a little
bit of personality m introducing myself to them, and how it
was 1 left England and took to a roving life. Being brought
up from childhood with the intention of following a military
career, one of my family having been on tlie army list since
very early in the eighteenth century, it was a great blow to
me, after working hard to pass my examination for Woolwich,
to be told that I was medically unfit for the army and could
never ride or stand a tropical climate. The decision of the
doctors has been my life's disappointment. I n«-er believed
tbcRi, and what I have gone through certainly proves that
thdr opinion was a wrong one ; it also gave me a distrust
for official opinions, and that they are far from infallible : and
I have found during the many years that I have travelled,
bow often those that give decisions and direct England's
A
2 MODERN ABYSSINIA
policy have been in the wrong, and what an immense amount
of unnecessary misery they have caused.
Immediately after my being plucked medically I deter-
mined to go to the East, and as I could not " soldier," to do
perhaps equally exciting work pioneering and collecting facts
and infonnation on countries that the public knew little or
nothing about A.D. 1870 saw me prepared to start for
Ceylon to get a general knowledge of a tropical and com-
mercial life, and to study the form of government there,
which to me seemed the best that existed amongst the
Crown Colonies, where several millions of inhabitants are
kept in order by a very small force. Before leaving for the
East I had already studied every available book I could pro-
cure on sport and travelling in India and Africa, and was full
of the literature of the recent campaign (1867-8) to Abyssinia
under the late Lord Napier of Magdala. In 1874 I was
back at Aden on my way home after having enjoyed plenty
of sport in Ceylon and knowing a good deal about jungle
life, which is the best school to learn in, and I started again
before the close of the year for the then very little known
town of Jeddah, the seaport of Mecca, and the then emporium
for the majority of the trade, legitimate and ill^timate, of
Abyssinia and the Soudan ; the merchants of Suakim and
Massowah being then only forwarding and receiving agents
for the lar^e native mercantile houses in Jeddah, who were
all engaged in the Slave Trade with Cairo, Constantinople,
and odier centres of Mahomedan depravity. From that date
up to the present day I have more or less been associated
with the Soudan and Abyssinia, and have never for one
moment let my interest Bag in these very fascinating and
nearly unknown Mahomedan and Christian countries.
Fascinating they are there can be no doubt, in spite of
their discomforts and drawbacks, such as climate and want
of civilisation, as one seems to be irresistibly drawn back to
visit the scenes of one's former wanderings, with the free and
open air life that is led, and the old and now hackneyed
Arab saying, that I heard years ago, of " he that has once
drank of the waters of the Nile will return," seems true
both for European and Arab. It has a still stronger spell
for me, having not only tasted the dirty and polluted
water of the combined Niles, but drank from the streams
of the White Nile, Blue Nile and Black Nile (AtbaraX
and watched the sources of the two latter rivers coming
out from the rocks and springs that give them birth in
INTRODUCTION
lovely mountainous scenery of Centra) and Eastern
yssinia.
Many of the happiest days of my life have been spent in
the uplands of Aby>sini3, enjoying the ever varying scenery
of mountain, valley and plain, looking at the lovely (lowers,
plants and trees, the birds with their gorgeous plumage, the
animals and the butterflies, moths and insects, many of tJjcm
being unknown in other countries. No day ever seemed to
be too long, and I know of no country that would repay the
botanist, naturalist, geologist or artist better, than a year
passed collecting and studying the varied objects to be met
with.
The seasons in Abyssinia are more marked than in many
other parts of the world, and immediately after the rains
commence there is a change from the dull browns, greys and
reds of the forest, field and fell, to vivid and tender greens of
all shades, and this sudden alteration in the colours of the
landscape is more marked in the provinces of Tigrt and
Amhara In the north and centre, than in the open wind-
»w(rpt downs of Shoa in tlie southern portion of the kingdom.
I have seen the country at all times of the year : during the
rainy season and the dry, after the summer and \vintcr rains,
while the ground is being broken up and the seed planted,
and at harvest time when the crops are being gathered ;
aUo during the time of peace and prosperity, with the busy
villages and contented inhabitants, during war, famine and
pestilence ; and then still at another time, when kind nature
m one short season has hidden man's hideous handiwork
and covered the ruins of the hamlets and their unburied
occupants with a thick growth of vegetation.
There is no harder worker than the Abyssinian peasant,
and no more hannlcss and hospitable person when left alone
and properly treated ; and no more truculent, worthless,
conceited, lazy and useless individual than the Abyssinian
soldier, who formerly did nothing but prey upon the de-
fenceless cultivator.
Circumstances are now altering all this, as will be
mentioned later on. and before the country settles down to
modem civili-sation and it makes any great strides forward,
a civil revolution must take place, and which may not be far
distant. There arc all the elements now ready in the country
to make this uprising and it will be no doubt the great
tnratug point In its history, and whether Abyssinia is to
reanJn a despotic monarchy or to enjoy the freedom of a
4 MODERN ABYSSINIA
better and more enlightened nilh. At present there is on
the one side, an absolute despotic monarchy which docs little
or no good for its subjects, who have no voice in either the
government or the taxation.
The monarchy is upheld by what may be called feudal
barons, mostly, but with of course some exceptions, an un-
educated and dissolute set, and the monarch and his barons
are kept in power by an unpaid soldiery who live on the
country, more or less, and take what they want from the
population. Then there is the clerical party, consisting of
the priests, monks and nuns, who may be called the connect-
ing link between the higher and lower classes, and who play
an important part in the daily life of the inhabitants ; and
lastly, on the other side, the small landowner and the peasant
proprietor, the artisan and the merchant. It is the latter
that has had, and has now, more to do with the opening up
of Abyssinia than anyone else, and wherever the merchant
trades along the main and country roads of the kingdom,
there will be found a welcome to the stranger who visits the
country with a peaceful intent, as the merchant from whom
the countryman gets the most of his news of the outside
world, has told hJm that the foreigner does no harm in his
country and welcomes and protects the traveller and stranger.
I have been well received everywhere, when I have travelled
without an escort, and instead of finding the Abyssinian
countryman reticent and shy, have found him entirely the
reverse and glad to impart and seek information on many
subjects.
Ever since the 1867-8 expedition to Magdala, the in-
habitants of the country have been learning daily, one may
say, more about the outside world. The impression left on
them by the English was an excellent one, and we are at
this moment remembered with gratitude in the north by
noble, priest, and peasant who still survive. Tradition has
passed our merits down to a younger generation in glowing
colours, and we are counted as being a people whose word is
as good as their bond, and who helped them in their time of
need and got rid of a ruler who, although in the early part of
his life was kind and considerate towards them, changed
at last, as many other Abyssinian rulers have before him,
into one of the greatest tyrants of modem history, and was
at last feared and detested. It was only the organisation of
King Theodore's force, and his fire-arms, that kept down
the peasantry, and his rapidity of movement allowed him to
INTROBUCTION
'
outnumber his enemies in detail ; and also from what might
be called their want of information of what was going on in
die otiicr parts of the country, owing to the insecurity of the
roads, which prevented them from acting in concert. This
has now been changed ; the roads arc safer, there is more
communication, and therefore news travels quicker. The
peasant is no longer miserably armed with spear and shield.
Of sword and sliield, but is generally the owner of a fairiy
nwdem bri.-ech-loading rifle, and has a good store of cartridges,
and can always procure more on next local market day, where
they arc openly ^d or barterci.1 and count as coin.
Abyssinia has made great pn^ress since the latter end of *
I S83 and the commencement of 1 884 ; that is, from the time "^
the Egyptians ceased to bold the seaport towns. As long
as the Late General Gordon was Governor-General of the
Soudan trade was allowed with Abyssinia, but the moment
his back was turned, frontier aggressions tix>k place and the
country in the nortli was unsafe except for Europeans. I
found this state of aUTairs in 18S5, when sent there by the late
Baker Pasha and Admiral Sir William Hewett.
Abyssinian merchants travel more than they did formerly,
opportunities for communicating with the north and cast
being more frequent, and at a great deal cheaper rale.
When 1 first remember Massowali it was visited at rare
intervals; there was supposed to be a monthly mail, but
owing to quarantine and other restrictions the steamers did
not run regularly, and for months the port was without any
boiit except an Egyptian man-of-war or some passing foreign
low-powered cruiser seeking to replenish her supply of coal
so as to enable her to steam up against the head winds that
blow down llie Red Sea for so many months in the year. The
merchants then had lo make use of the native sailing craft to
gel over to Jedd.ih, Hodcidah or Aden, and wait there for
iomc length of time, as in those days opportunities for getting
cast or west were not as they are now. In olden days it took
these merchants all their time to turn their money over once
ID a season, and owing to the insecurit>* of the roads, some
ftcasons no venture could be undertaken ; and when they did
make their way to the coast, many merchanUi and their
servanLs had for safety to travtl together, .and were very
often accompanied by priests and others on their way to
perform their pilgrimage to Jerusalem.
This is all changed; the merchants now travel singly with
their servants ; ihey can find an immmliate market for tlieir
6 MODERN ABYSSINIA
produce from the Europeans settled on the coast ; and if they
consider the price offered a bad one, they have only to wait
^a few days for a steamer to Egypt, Aden or India, where they
get a better price for their goods and a more varied and
cheaper market to purchase in for their return produce.
This trade ts not confined to the men alone, as there are a
good many females who take up trading as a business and
own numbers of houses and a good deal of land in Abyssinia.
There is now hardly a seaport town from India to Constanti-
nople that has not its small Abyssinian colony, and there is
'' a r^iilar and frequent communication kept up with their
homes. No wonder then that the Abyssinian merchant is so
far ahead of his other countrymen in intelligence ; he has
seen security of life and property in other countries, and that
the profession of a merchant is, instead of being looked down
upon as in his country, held in the greatest of esteem ; that
the life of the majority of the people he has met abroad is
employed in buying and selling ; and of course when he re-
turns he gets discontented with the officials of his country
who do nothing to help him. He has first to pay the King's
dues, bribe the Custom House officer, and give something
to every feudal baron through whose govemorate he has to
pass.
I have always made it a rule to converse a great deal
with the Abyssinian merchant, who always knows Arabic,
and having mixed with the outside world, he is not conceited
and bigoted, and a much better idea of the country can be
got from him, and what is wanted to improve it, than from
the Abyssinian officials, who have always moved in one
narrow groove. The latter are suspicious and reticent at
first, and are always afraid of making friends of strangers on
account of their being surrounded by spies, who report
everything to headquarters, where there are many people
only too glad to succeed to any post, and do not mind what
tales they spread and what they say so that they can gain
their ends. The upper classes as a rule are not nearly so
well-informed as the lower trading population, and they live
in an air of what may be called intrigue and distrust, with
tittle or nothing to do and plenty of time to do it in. A
hard day's manual labour is beneath them, and they have no
outdoor games or amusements wherewith to occupy their
spare time. They are hangers-on at Court, wasting their
days round the doors of the King's palaces or at some prince's
or ruler of a province, and passing away their daytime
INTRODUCTION
in eating, drinking and sleeping. Their only chance of
employment i:; if war breaks out, or they are sent on an
expedition to annex Turlher terriMi>- or punish some border
tribe. The loot they Like brings their pay, and when on an
expedition they even plunder the peaceful inhabitants of
the countr>' that they pass through.
Thc whole condition of Abyssinia is more what England
used to be in the worst of the feudal days, and as long as it
was surrounded by Mahonicdans who were cither under the
govcrruncnt of Turkey or Hgypt, the peasant and the baron
worked together against the common enemy to repel invasions,
u the Turkish or Eg>'ptian officials were always getting up
raids to plunder or to procure slaves, for which the high-
lander retaliated, and a warfare used to take place not unlike
the Border life in Cumberland and Northumberland on one
side and in the southern Scottish counties on the other. As
long as tttere was a cause why these two elements should
work together the peasant put up with the exactions of the
barons, but there have been several short periods since the
Ei^Ibh expedition, when, although not nearly so well armed
as they are now, the peasant has defended himself gainst
these illj^al extortions, and worsted the barons and their
soldiers in fair fight
It will be interesting to watch the future of the country ;
as long as the chief ruler or King of Kings was a fair and
just man like the late King Johannes, he managed to hold
the scales of justice with a firm and even hand, despite King
Menelek's rebellion and being attacked first by Kgypt and
then by the Italians and the Dervishes. These campaigns
were a great drain on the resources of the country, but the
mhabitants undertook them cheerfully as they were all work-
ing from the King downwards to protect their homes and
religion from a common danger.
Conditions now arc greatly altered ; the Egyptian has been
removed from the frontier and has not now to be reckoned
with, and his corrupt government has given place, we hope,
to a fair and honest one supervised by Englishmen.
Thedcrvish.thegTeatsourceofannoyancctoall, and whom
it was impossible to live with or along side of, is a thing of
the past as far as Abyssinia is concerned. Italy has entirely
altered her policy, and the change from a military to a civilian
guvemment has already had the most beneficial result; and
instead of the native population deserting her territory as
they did formerly, they arc returning with more of their
8 MODERN ABYSSINIA
friends and settling down, where they can enjoy the benefits
of security and the blessings of law and order which Italy
now gives them. Somaliland is under the joint protection of
England and Italy, with the exception of one tribe, that of
the Black Esa Somalis (a mixture of £sa and Danakil), who are
nominally under French protection, but who resent it on every
available opportunity. Abyssinia now seems to have no
enemy on her frontier, and as soon as the peasant understands
this, he will no doubt resent any further exactions from the
barons and their soldiery and refuse to pay any taxes but
those of the Kii^. It will then become a question of King
and peasant against the barons, or barons and King against
the peasantry, with perhaps the clerical party sympatiiistr^
and siding with the latter.
From some oversight on the part of England giving up
territory on the south-east borders of Abyssinia in the
Somaliland, and by the Italian Government not having their
Somali Hinterland defined, there is a great chance of
difficulties arising on the south and south-eastern borders
of Abyssinia. Events now progress so quickly in Africa
that a dispute may arise sooner than is anticipated, and it is
to be hoped that both England and Italy will work tc^ethcr
to prevent these rich grazing and agricultural districts with
their Mahomedan population from passing out of the sphere
of European influence into that of Abyssinia. If these
' countries are not retained, civilisation and commerce in them
may be indefinitely postponed, as Abyssinia will not be able
to do justice to a country populated by people of the
Mahomedan religion or tendencies towards this faith. The
Africans' first step in the social scale has so far been through
the Mahomedan religion and not through Christianity, and
the doubtful blessings of the general and wholesale baptism
of the Galla tribes by the Abyssinians to their form of worship
has not been nor is likely to be a success.
The feud between the Christian and Mahomedan is of long
standing in this country and it is quite likely that history
may again repeat itself, and it is only because the former are
better armed that they keep the more numerous and in-
dustrious Mahomedans in a semi state of slavery. It must
not be foigotten that the Mahomedans of Africa prefer the
English rule to any other on account of our being less un-
charitable towards their religion ; they make excellent fighting
material, and if ever armed and advised by Englishmen they
would be quite a match for the Abyssinians, and in them we
INTRODUCTION
9
have a cheap power that can be turned to our advantage if
kept under our rule, but if given over to Abyssinia these same
people ni:iy be used against us.
The final settlement of the southern portion of tlie
Abys-tinian kingdom will leave King Mcnelek face to face
with the question of what he will have to do with bis fighting
feudal barons and his large army, as he will have no enemies
to conquer and his neighbours will be cither under English.
Italian or French protection. The military may settle down
and turn their arms into reaping hooks and ploiigh!ihare.s,
but most likely civil war will break out on the demise of
the present king, and circumstances may arise whereby
Abyssinia's neighbours may have to interfere. With regard
to England and Italy, there are no signs as yet that this is
likely, but witli France it is more probable, considering the
way she treats her native population and the means she
employs to get a foothold in a country ; in another chapter I
have entered into this question more fully, and given a
description of the condition of thir^ between Abyssmia and
her European neighbours.
The regeneration of Abyssinia and its commencing to he a
help to the civilisation of north-east Africa dates from the
complete overthrow of the Dervishes, a task already finished,
thanks to the able manner Sir Francis Wingatc and the
officers with him managed the last campaign and acted at
once without waiting for re-in force m en ts, knowing very well
from his many years experience that the troops with him
were more than suflkicnt, and that a fly can be squashed
without a steam hammer, and also that the Dervishes never
required the elaborate prejiarations that had formerly been
made for their overthrow. Tlie Soudan school for fighting
lessons has been a bad one in tnai^y ways, and tlie many
years our men have only had to walk out in the open and
the Dervishes would come with thcu- spears and swords to be
killed gave them little experience of what real warfare really
is against a mobile foe perhaps equally well armed, such as
the Abyssinian would be.
With the overthrow of the Dervishes and the death of the
Khalifa and his principal Bagj^ara leaders, the Soudan should
commence to quiet down, and the riverain population arc
now free from attack, and both banks of the Nile can be
cultivated, which was impossible while the Khalifa w.as alive,
as the frontier extended from Dongola to Fashoda, and was
always liable to sudden raids from a Dervish mounted force
10 MODERN ABYSSINIA
on the west bank of the river. There still however remains
a great deal to be done before Kordofan and Darfur become
as safe to travel over as the roads in the eastern portion of
the Soudan; and it must not be forgotten that the disturbances
in the country were not due to Mahdism alone so much as
to the wicked and corrupt governing of the Egyptian officials
after the comparatively mild and good rule that the inhabitants
enjoyed under the late lamented General Gordon during the
whole time he was Governor-General of the Soudan.
I can remember on my visit to him at Khartoum, while he
was the Governor-General, that the banks of the Nile were
inhabited by a large population of happy and contented
cultivators, who worked hard at their water-wheels and were
yearly increasing the acreage of cultivated land ; but the
moment he left the country, increased taxation was put upon
these people, so much so that it did not pay them any longer
to continue their labours, and they joined the general rising
to get rid of their hated rulers, only to fall under the more
blighting and wretched bondage of the Baggaras. liie
English newspapers keep no correspondents in the Soudan
or Abyssinia, and with the exception of a Renter's telegram
occasionally from some official who is acting for them, the
English-speaking public all over the world do not know what
is being done in the Soudan or Abyssinia, so they cannot
form any independent opinion on what is going on there,
nor will they be able to follow, except through Blue Book
literature, the peaceful developments of commerce that must
now take place to settle the inhabitants of the country and
give them something to do so that they may keep quiet and
gain a livelihood.
The most likely cause of future disturbances will, as it
was in former times, be the slave dealers under their acknow-
ledged chief and leader Osman Digna,* who from all accounts
had made his way to the Eastern Soudan en route to Arabia
to consult with his friends at Jeddah and Mecca, and to
obtain their aid so as to enable further operations to be
carried on. The slave dealers can never be expected to
raise such a formidable force as that of the Mahdt or the
Khalifa, but stilt they will be able to keep part of the country
in such a disturbed state that together with Abyssinia, should
* Since writing this, Oirnan Digiia has beeo captnred. The ilave dealen will,
howeTer, ititl cury on their Itmde under some olhei chief, for u long as there it
a demand (here will be a nipply, aod unlil tome few of the iUtc trader* are
eiecnted thcf will be jut at biii; ai ever.
INTRODUCTION
11
she prove hostile or unwilling to stop the road through her
territory, it will be many years before they arc finall>' put
dowi).
There are two big roads by which the Soudan can be
reached and where the slave dealers can enjoy perfect im-
munity : one is via Tripoli through Turkish territory and
where there is always a market for slaves, and where the
dealers can always obtain supplies of anns and ammunition
and keep Wadai and Darfur in a disturbed state ; and the
second is through the Frendi sphere of influence near Djibuti,
and then through Abyssinia to the western feeders of the
Nile, the district that has always been, with the exception of \
the time when Lupton Bey was Governor, the chief seat olV'
the Slave Trade in the Soiidan. As long as there i» a de-
mand for slaves there will always be a supply, and through
tficse roads the trade will be carried on without let or hind-
rance ; and we cannot expect cither Turkey or France to put
a stop to it, as the Turkish subjects arc the great purchasers
that cause the demand, and the French will neither put it
down themselves, as they cannot get labourers in their
colonies ; nor do the>' allow the right of search under their
flag, which serves to cover the slaves in the middle passage.
Luckily for England, Mahdism can now be reckoned as
a thing of the past, and it simplifies a great deal our future
dealings with King Menelek ; it is to be hoped also that
Knigcrism will shortly be finished, as we can then lake a
much stronger and firmer position with regard to Abyssinia,
that may Ixcome the third " ism " that will delay the peace .
of Africa- Mcnclekism may give a great deal of trouble in
the future, and will alwa^-s more or le&s be a constant source
of anxict)' to those that have anything to do with the country ;
as we can never be sure of a ruler who has passed his life in
one constant intrigue to gain the throne of Abyssinia, and
can now wield if he chooses its undoubted great power to the
detriment of his ncighboun> and to keep this part of Africa
in a constant state of unrest, thus preventing its peaceful
development by commercial enterprise.
1 have no hesitation in saying that, from my many years'
experience of all classes of Abyssiiiians. very few of them
have any wish further than to lead a quiet life and to be left
olooc in their own country, accepting a higher state of civilisa-
tion that years of peace antl contact with tlie outer world can
only give them ; the chief reason hitherto of their dislike to
fore^ers has t>ecn caused by the priests, who have had ample
12 MODERN ABYSSINIA
justification to regard all strangers with suspicion, 3s they
have mostly been missionaries who have tried to alter the
religion of the country, which is neither that of the Greek
and Russian Church nor that of the Coptic Church of Egypt,
but nearer to the latter than any other. The Abyssmian
rel^ion has its faults the same as ail have, but it is most
interesting in its present form and one that perhaps has
changed less than any other, and why people should wish to
interfere with it I never could understand. If the priests
in Abyssinia are left alone I do not think they would mind
who their rulers were, as long as they gave them good and
just government, and the peasant and pedlar are of the same
way of thinking.
It may seem out of place mentioning as I do so much
about the Soudan when the subject treated is Abyssinia, but
these two countries have for centuries been intimately asso-
ciated with one another, and the history of one is not complete
without the history of the other ; this has been so in the past
and in the future it must be a great deal more so. The
position of Abyssinia in Africa is not that of a buffer state
like Afghanistan in Asia, dividing the two great European
Asiatic powers, England and Russia, and which m^ht at
any time be the scene of the most terrible struggle that
this continent has ever witnessed ; but the two countries,
Afghanistan and Abyssinia, have many points in common.
In Asia four powers meet, Russia, Persia, Afghanistan and
England, and it may be that the former will be opposed to
the two latter over the question of the succession, and every-
thing depends on the life of one man, the present ruler. In
Africa it is also a question of four powers, Italy, England,
France and Abyssinia, being brought into contact with one
another, and complications are certain to be brought about
over who succeeds to the throne at King Menelek's death.
Life and its duration is always an uncertainty, and perhaps
more so in a country like Abyssinia where violent deaths are
most common, and so few of the rulers have died tn their
beds, so at any moment the three European powers interested
may be brought face to face with a problem that will take
some solving.
There will be pretenders to the throne, and it is doubtful
whether the northern part of Abyssinia will again care to be
ruled by a prince of the south ; had there been a stronger
and more popular man than Ras Mangesha the result might
have been different. It is against the policy of England
=TI
INTRODUCTION
13
nnd Italy to allow a ruler unfriendly to them and to their
Mohomedan subjects to occupy the throne, and as Abyssinia
is entireiy a self-supporting country* and its rulers want
nothing from Europeans except arms and ammunition lliat
they can procure through Djibuti, it would not be a diffi-
cult matter for France to send sufficient quantities into the
country to last for many years, then run their own candidate
who might be unfriendly to others and a tool in her hands,
and be virtually masters of the situation and cause both
Italy and England enormous expense in keeping frontier
garrisons for the defence of their African possessions and
prevent their [leaceful development.
An unfriendly Abyssinia, or in the hands of France, would
always be a serious menace to the telegraph and railway that
is to be made from Ef^-pt to the Cape, and I do not sec how
England or Italy, unless they come lo some friendly under-
standing with Abyssinia, can ever be safe in their lands
bordering this country. The futute of Abyssinia h shrouded
in mystery, and it is to be hoped that the influence of those
who wish to sec her tnie welfare will be so strong that a
peaceful settlement of the question will be arrived at in the
most speedy manner possible. Will the three Hiiro|>ean
powers who are interested come to a friendly understanding.
is thcgreat question. I am afraid they will not, a.^ France, with
the Abyssinian stick in her hand, has an instrument that she
can beat both Italy and England with, and can make it
very unpleasant for both of them in Africa.
/
AA
CHAPTER II
ABYSSINIAN HISTORY
IT is impossible in a volume of this dimension to enter fully
into the history of Abyssinia so as to do it justice, and
there are not enough details as yet available, either in
England or on the Continent, to piece together a narrative
that would fulfil and embrace all the vicissitudes through
which this country has passed. What Abyssinia may pro-
duce hereafter when it is thoroughly explored, can only be a
matter of conjecture, but no doubt when the ruins of the
ancient cities are systematically examined, and the inscrip-
tions properly deciphered, a great deal of evidence will be
accumulated regarding its ancient history, and many details
now wanting will be found amongst the old writings and
documents that still exist in the monasteries on the fortified
Ambas, or small table mountains, that are so frequently met
with in the provinces of Tigr^ and Amhara.
Abyssinian history and that of Egypt have no doubt
been intimately associated from the earliest times, and as in
the past, when a tedious voyage separated the two countries,
so it will be in the future, when quicker communications are
arranged, and the Soudan becomes more developed. The
journey to the borders of Abyssinia from Cairo will then be
counted only in hours. Formerly it was reckoned in months,
and in more modem times in weeks, and at present in days.
There can be little doubt that Abjresinia formed part of
a great southern nation that was contemporary with the
earliest Jewish times ; and in the reign of King Solomon,
when the Queen of Sheba visited this monarch in Syria, it
had already reached to a high scale of civilisation. It is
nearly certain that this southern nation of Sheba extended to
both sides of the Red Sea, embracing the Arab countries of
Yemen and Hadramut, and including the island of Socotra.
Its limits in Africa are only a matter of conjecture, but most
likely included all the ground where coffee and khat are
cultivated, which would embrace in the south-west the
«4
ABYSSINIAN HISTORY
13
vihcAt of the western Galla country. In this part of the
world these two plants are only found in Abyssinia, Yemen
and the Hadramut. and the khat is only eaten by the in-
habitants of these places. This is a bit of evidence that I
think tends to show that the people who inhabit these
countries were formerly connected, and also the fact that
Jews of the same type of feature and mode of dc»ng the hair
to this day live in both countries, and have kept their
rel^on in spite of the comparatively peaceful third century
wave of Christianity and the conquering fifteenth century
wave of Mabomcdanism.
It is not denied by any historian tliat trade ceased to
exist between tlic lands that border the eastern end of the
Mediterranean Sea and the Far East. Wc know that Adulis,
near ZuUah. the landinj; place of the English expedition,
was once a ver>' important commercial town on the trade
route to the East, and therefore there is no reason to doubt
that the Jews, who have always been keen traders, inhabited
this country from the earliest of times, and until the present
time the inhabitants of Abyssinia, Christian and Mahomedan
have still many customs the same as the Jews. This tends
perhaps to fix the history of the country at our earliest
biblical times, and th-it It wa.s inhabited by a race far superior
to any of negro origin. Certainly ancient civilisation and
circumcision went together both in Asia and Africa, and the
present inhabitants of Abyssinia, Jci*-, Abyssinian Christian,
and Mahomedan all practise tlu» rite.
The nearest negro race to Abyssinia arc the Shangalla,
who Inhabit the country bordering the Blue Nile In latitude
10* to 12' north, and longitude 34* to 36' cast. This tribe
is the most eastern of all the negroes in this part of Africa,
and they are totally dilTercnt in habits and customs to the
inhabitants of the highlands, and they do not practise the
nte of circumcision.
To the west of the Sbancallas arc the Shillooks and
Denkas, also negroes- The Baze tribe, that live on the north-
west borders of Abyssinia on the watershed of the Gash and
Scttitc rivers, are not negroes but m^roid and also do not
circumci$c and if they were the original inhabitants of
Abyssinia as some people think, they have greatly fallen in
the social scale, and their fall must have dated lung before
the Ptolemaic era.
If tradition is correct, the Queen of Sheba's visit to Kii^
Solomon at Jerusalem took place about 1000 years before
16
MODERN AUYSSINIA
the coming of Chmt and the present King Meneteb of
Abyssinia claims his descent from that Queen's son, Mcncick,
whose father was supposed to be King Solomon. This
makes this supposed line of descent about 3000 )'cafs, and
perhaps goes to confirm that at the time of the Queen's
visit the countr>- of Shcba extended to both sides of the sea ;
but what strikes one as curious is, that the present ruler can
trace his descent to that date, an object of minor importance,
but what would be more inteTestin<; for all of us to know, is
that he cannot say where his country extended to, and that
he is entirely ignorant of the fact that Sheba was in Arabia
and not in Africa.
From all the present data that is available, it will be
found that it is impossible to determine who were the
original inhabitants of Abyssinia. The present race, ax the
name Habcsh or Aby&sinian denotes, is a mixture un-
doubtedly of very long standing, but most likely of Jew, with
the inhabitants of southern Arabia and the non-nc(;ro races
of eastern Africa. At present there are many Abyssinians
that show a negro type, but tliis can be accounted for by
either the father's or mother's ancestors belonging to that
race, or more recently l^ an Abyssinian having obtained an
illegitimate child front some negro woman. Colour may
arise from many reason.!, namely aUitude above tlie .tea.
The l^htcr ones coming from a climate like in northern
India, and the darker from the tropical valleys, where tlie
heat and moisture are intense, or the burning lower plains
where the thermometer seldom ranges under 100* Fahrenheit
in the sun. To study the whole documentary evidence re-
garding Abyssinia necessitates reading everything that the
.British and other Museums possess on the subject ; and by
'spending periiaps a year over thi.* work, a very good idea
could be formed of what the country used to be, but not
what it is now.
When the archa^logist has full run of Abyssinia and
southern Arabia and the ruins of the ancient cities nrc
explored, then something interesting will be found, which
will tell us more alMMit the ancient history of perhaps Slicba
and Abyssinia ; but until excavations take place, so long will
the hidden inscriptions and treasures remain underground
Not a rainy season passes unless some coins of the old
Axumitc Dyna.ity arc washed out of the grourul, but how
IcMig this Dynasty existed b hard to say. Up till the
present moment no one has been able to do Justice to the
i
ABYSSINIAN HISTORY
17
subject, owing to the meagre details to work on- On my
last visit to Axum I obtained several coins ; unfortunately I
parted with some of the spccimcnii before showing them to
the authorities at the British Museum, and from the very
Uotitcd collection they possess, they believe it b useless
trying to come to any decision on the subject until many
more specimens are obtained. The monuments at Axum
and its neighbourhood were made by a race that were expert
engineers, quarrymen and workers in stone, who might have
I lived about the same period as the ancient Egyptians, say
something over 3000 years ago ; a few centuries more or less
is at present quite near enough when dealing with the
ancient history* of Abyssinia, while in Egypt, with the data
and the inscriptions found, an approximate time to within a
century can be given to everything.
The connecting link between Egyptian and Abyssinian
history will be found, I am certain, in the island of Meroc, or
that waterless tract of country surrounded by the Atbara,
Nile, Blue Nile and Rahad rivers. There arc ruins to be
found in many parts of this present waste, and tradition has
it that formerly this whole area was one grain field ; and I
daresay it could be again made into one, by utilising the
water from these rivers. There is a road that leads from the
bland of Meroc to Berenice on the Red Sea, which was no
doubt the seaport for the whole district round Thebes,
Luxor, Kamak, Philce, and all the ancient cities of this
district. This road cros-scs the Suakin Berber route at
Rowai, near Ariab, and then follows a course of a little cast
of north, down the Wady Hafct, where there arc also ancient
ruins, to Ilerentce. This road in ancient times must have
been better watered than it is now ; but still in several places
in the Wady Halet there is running water, and very likely
the wells made use of are buried under the drift sand.
Between Berenice and Adulis or Zullah on the Red Sea
ocwst, are found the remains of two ancient towns, one about
180 miles north of Suakin, which goes by the name of
Suakin- Kadini, and is no doubt the Ayilab of the old Arab
{•ognpbcrs Edrisi and Abou Fida. When I visited thlt
ptaSt before the late and much lamented Mr Theodore Bent
went there, there was little to be seen ; the ruins and founda-
tions of the buildings were mostly covered with sand, and
the only inscription in Cufic characters was on a small tablet
Thi» 1 brought away and gave it to Sir Charles Hollcd Smith,
who was then Governor-General of the Soudan. The water
B
i
18 MODERN ABYSSINIA
t
cisterns were evidently for the use of the garrison and officials
of the place, and the size of the permanent or stone buildings
would give no idea of the extent this town covered, as the
visitors and traders to the place would have lived in mat or
grass huts which would quickly perish. On the surf'acc any
quantity of fragments of broken glass, pottery and beads
are to be picked up, the same as in the vicinity of all old
Egyptian cities. The other town is on the island of Errih,
near Agh^, the southern portion of the Tokar or Khor
Barca delta. This is supposed to be the ancient Pheron,
and on the mainland, some few miles in the interior, is the
hunting camp of the Ptolemies, who most likely hunted in
the valley of the Khor Barca, where good sport is still to be
obtained.
The road to Axum from Adulis can also be traced by
ruins and inscriptions. The first ruins on the highlands are at
Koheita, vis-d-vis to Adi-Caia and Teconda, and consist of well
made tanks, foundations of houses, large and small, and
burial ground with tombs cut out of the solid rock. Then
at Gebel Arab Terika, the high hill that looks down on the
Senafe plain where the English '67-68 camp was situated,
and then again the hills to the west of Goose plain. The
road here must have branched off westwards to Axum. On
the road from Senafe to Goose plain can be seen a stone
broi^ht from Axum by AH, a nephew of Mahomed, on his
return to Mecca, A.D. about 570. This stone was evidently
used for sacrifices, and is exactly similar to those now to, be
seen in front of the old temples at Axum, as it is of the
same size and shape, and has on it exactly the same cuttings.
The Moslems of Senafe and Agam^ regard this stone with
a certain amount of veneration, and those that live near
always pray on Fridays at the spot, on account of rt having
been used by the family and friends of Mahomed, who were
among the first converts to Islam. This and the fact that it
is to be found in the Commentaries of the Koran, that
Mahomed forbids Mahomedans to make war on the Christians
of Axum, fixes one date of Abyssinian history to within a few
years. Mahomed, when he had to flee from Mecca, sent
some of his relations and followers to Axum for safety,
where they were well treated by the ruler of that country,
and it was not till Mahomed's return to Mecca that he sent
for them to come back. This also proves that over 1300
years ago there must have been frequent communications
between Axum and Mecca, and a trade between these places;
ABVSSJtNlAN HISTORY
19
.
Also that there was peace between Maliomcd and his Tollowers
arui the inhabitants of northern Abyasinia.
Between these ruins on Goose plain and Axum is the
ruined city of Ycha. also full of old buildings, and several
trucriptions are slill extant. I do not believe it was ever
such an important city a» Axuni, and it must have fallen
into decay long before the tatter.
From this date to the time of the Portuguese arriving in
Abyssinia at the invitation of the ruler to help them expel
the Mahomedans and their Galla allies under Mahomed
Gniyn -is u blank. The Mahomedan invasion commenced
in the latter end of the finccnth century and extended well
on into the sixteenth century, and, should information in a
condensed form be required on the history of the country, no
better book can be recommended than that of Sir Clements
R. Markham, the present popular president of the Royal
Gcc^raphical Society, who accompanied the English ex-
pedition in iS67-S in an official capacity. This book was
published in iSdf^, and contains very valuable, interesting,
and correct information, and it also gives the sources from
which the information was obtained, so it acts as a guide to
what shouI<l be read by those that wish to study the subject.
The last thirty years of Abyssinia's history, the only
portion I intend to touch on and that I believe I understand,
is full of the most thrilling events, and no other country has
perhaps suffered so mucli as she has done in so short a time-
On the English leaving the highlands civil war took place,
and it was not till 187 1 that King John became King of Kings
of Ethiopia ; he reigned till March iSSy, when he was
wounded in battle fighting against the Der\'ishes at Gallabat,
and died the next day. King Johannes, King of Kings of
Ethiopia, wa.1 formerly Prince K^issai of Tigrt, and by this
name he was known in '67-68 to the KngH-sh expedition,
to which he was a great help, guarding our west flank from v^
attack, and giving full permission to all his subjects to supply
n with everything required in the shape of provisions and
transport.
The amount of food and forage purchased in the country
enabled the expedition to reach Magdala, destroy King
Theodore's power and release the Englishmen and European
captives, much quicker than if the food supplies had had to be
transported from the coast It may be said that if these
supplies had not been obtained it would have been im-
possible to have reached Magdala at all in 1868, and our
22 MODERN ABYSSINIA
in height, and with snow-white hair, and just as thorou^-
paced old rascal as ever. He was allowed a certain amount
of liberty and had about fifty unarmed followers with him,
but his influence had gone.
Munzinger had married a landowner's daughter of the
Hamasen, and gave out that she was a princess of that
province ; and through his wife, who knew the wives of nearly-
all the leading men, it was of course very easy to carry
on intrigues and obtain information. A French expedition
in the late spring of 1870 was got together, and every-
thing was ready for its departure from Toulon, so as to arrive
at Massowah before the end of the rains ; but the Franco-
German war broke out in the summer of that year and the
expedition had to be abandoned, and France was again
baulked in her designs on Abyssinia and in the Red Sea,
which she had commenced before King Theodore had won
his way to the throne.
France about ten years before this date (A.D. 1857) bad
entered into communications with Dcdjatch Negusye of the
province of Semien, who had revolted against King Theodore,
and Negusye had promised the French what did not belong
to him, the island of Dissci, the key of Annesiey Bay
and ZuHah, in return for any help they might render.
Negusye was defeated before the French could aid him, and
their attempt to get a footing in the country came to naught.
The whole policy of France towards Abyssinia seems to
consist in stirring up disputes and creating disturbances and
trying to win a foothold in the country, and her new policy
ever since she has come into possession of Djibuti has been
most unfriendly to her neighbours. She can make no head-
way with her subjects in her hinterland, who are if anything
worse off than they were before she came into the country.
She has put King Menetek under many obligations which
he no doubt is now sorry for, and the last scene between
them is as yet still unacted. King Johannes, on the other
hand, would have nothing to do with France, and although
civil and courteous, refused all their overtures, which were
many.
Munzinger, seeing that there was very little chance of
immediately being able to do anything with France, turned
his attention to the F^ptians who, after the defeat of King
Theodore, b^an a more forward policy in the northern
frontier of Abyssinia. After a long sojourn in Cairo he
received the appointment of Governor of Massowah and its
ABYSSINIAN HISTORY
23
/
ncighbcMirhood, and the first thing he did on taking up his
appointment was to annex the province of Bo^os and fortify
Keren. This gave the Rg^ptians a road through northern
Abyssinia, from Massowah to Ka»»<tla, with posU at Algedcn
and Amideb. Keren was a place which offered a good ^
basis for any attack on the fertile Uamascn and northern
Abyssinia.
In 1875 the Egyptians claimed the river Mareb as their
boundary, and an expedition assembled ut Musowah and
Sanhcit or Keren to occupy the provinces of ffamasen and
Oculu-cussci or Halai. Waldcnkei, who had been imprisoned
by King Johiinnea when some correspondence from the French
to him fell into the king's hands, was released, as he promised
to raUe his followers in the Hamasen to fight against the
Invaders. He certainly got leather a few soldiers, and he
was present at the fighting Uiat took place between the
Egyptians and AbyssinianR in 1S75. I may mention here
llut when Munzingcr seized the Bogos country, King
Johannes wrote to Esmacl Pasha, the Khedive of Egypt, v
telling him that he might kcej) that country, provided ne
allowed Abyssinia to tnulc through Massowah and allow tlie
Abyssinians to come and go without let or hindrance ; this
Ismael Pa-^ha never did, and he considered that he would be
able to take more of Abyssinia than was offered him.
The expedition started in October from Egyptian
territory ; one column from Sanheit or Keren via Asmara,
and the other via the Kiagour pass, to the Gura valley ; the
two meeting in the fertile district" of Goodofelasie. The
leader of the expedition was Arekcl Bey, a nephew of the
late Nubar Pasha; with Arcndrup Bey, a Danish offkcr in
the Egyptian army, second in command, and Count Zichy, an
Austrian officcr.commanding oncof thecolumns. The troops
were welt armed with Remington rifles, and their artillery con-
sisted of mountain guns, and several Krupp field guns. The
whole expedition was well equipped, and with ample military
supplies of all sorts^ An advance was made from Goodofelasie
to the Gundct Valley which leads to the river Mareb which
divides the Gundet valley from tlie I^ala plain. The pass at
Adi-Quala, the now frontier post of the Italians, was fortified ;
a good road which still exists was constructed down the pass,
aad a fortified camp was made about three miles down the
vaUey.
The Abyssinian army was concentrated at Adowa and
Adf-Abouna, with an advance force on the Lala plain. At
24 MODERN ABYSSINIA
the commencement of November, the majority of die
Egyptian troops left their fortified camp at daylight to
advance to the Mareb. The road to the river was only about
ten yards wide, and flanked on each side by dense mimou
trees, and fairly thick under-cover of the usual description,
which prevented regular troops deplo3nng into line, but was
of little hindrance to the advance of irregular troops, of which
the Abyssinian army is composed. Arekel Bey, and Count
Zichy, who were leading, were fairly ambushed when within
half an hour's march of tiieir destination, and a fight at dose
quarters took place, sword and shield, and old muzzle-loading
guns, against the breech-loader. In a short time the Egyptian
advance force was wiped out, and Arendrup, with tiie rear
force that was following close behind, tried to retreat to the
fortified camp higher up the valley ; part of a black Soudanese
foment covering the retreat being annihilated, and even at
this date showing their splendid fighting qualities. The
Abyssinians then attacked tiie fortified camp, too large to be
properly defended by the reduced numbers. It was protected
by a ditch and big tiiom zareba placed in front of three small
rocky hills covered with giant boulders, and was a very strong
position ; on looking at it, it might be deemed impregnable
when defended by soldiers with breech-loaders against an
enemy mostly armed with spear and sword, and if the whole
force had waited the Abyssinian attack in this position they
might have repulsed their enemy. Ras Aloula with his troops
got round the left of the position, while the king and the rest
of his army attacked the front and other flank ; the former
managed to cut the line of retreat to Adt-Quala, and at last
to force his way through the less strongly defended rear of
the camp and a horrible massacre took place, quarter not
being given or asked for.
The Egyptians lost everything they possessed ; Arekel
Bey and Arendrup Bey, with tile principal officers, were killed;
Count Zichy was mortally wounded and fell into King
Johannes' hands, and received while he lived the best of
treatment. The reserve force at Adi-Quala abandoned their
position and fell back on the fortress of Keren, the inhabitants
of the Hamasen attacking them and taking their revenge for
the cruelties and plundering which were perpetrated by the
Egyptians on their advance^ But very few of the expedition
returned to Egyptian territory, and Keren and Massowah
were in a panic, the inhabitants seeking refuge on board the
ships in the harbour.
ABYSSINL^ HISTORY
25
The defeat at Gundct, or as the fight was called the battle
of Guidi-Guifli, took place on the 7th November 1875, and
on the Mime d:iy Munzingcr, who had by this time been
made a Fasha in the Egyptian service, was killed, and his
I force entirely destroyed in the Danakil country near the salt
lakes of Abbehcbad. He, on btihalf of the Egyptian Govern-
ment, had been intriguing with Meneiek of Shoa,and succeeded
in getting a promise of aid from that potentate. I'hc scheme
was, while the Egyptians were attacking King Johannes in
the north, Munzingcr Pasha and King Mcnclck were to
attack Abyssinia from the south via the Ifut district, and join
the southern Mahomcdan Gallas in Wollo and Yejju, who
were then always witling to loot the Christians of Amhara
and Tigr& Munztnger's expedition of between 400 and 500
men started in from Tadjurrah ; he was accompanied by hts
Abyssinian wife and their child, and he also took with him a
lar^e supply of arms and ammunition to distribute to those
who Joined him. His force was attacked at night by the
Danakils and Black Esa Somalis and were, with the excep-
tion of about twenty, all killed; Munzingcr, his wife, their
child, and all liis staff being among the slain.
Werner Munzinger was certainly a clever man of his kind,
but like many of the Swiss wOo leave their country, never to
be trusted implicitly, as if they start to do a. business it is
generally done in an underhand or round-about way instead
of in a straightforward manner. His great forte was intrigue,
which never pays with a nation like the Abyssinians, who
ought to be treated in the most open and simple manner
possible, and then they understand that you mean to deal
fairly with them. The last intrigtie that led to his death
was ill planned, and although he had lived many years in
Abyssinia and had had as much experience of the country
and its inhabitants as any European, he entirely underrated
the capabilitie.<c of his enemies, under-estimated their fighting
qualities and their fanaticism and hatred for the Moslems
who for centuries had plundered Ab>-3sinia, massacred the
male population, and carried off the females and children
tato slavery, and still did so when he was Governor of
Manowah, expeditions being fitted out from there to harry
the highlands. He served many ma.<itcrs and never did
service of much merit for any of tlicm. He was a pleasant
companioD, a good linguist, and well informed on all subjects,
and had fortune been kind to him. he might have made a last-
ing mark in history ; he is now only remembered a.'t having
26 MODERN ABYSSINIA
made several interesting joum^ in Africa and one in Arabia,
and belonging to the circle of people who helped to ruin
Egypt.
On the news of the disasters in Abyssinia reaching Cairo,
Ismael, the Khedive, was determined to avenge the humilia-
tion he had received at the hands of, what he was pleased
to look upon as, a nation of savages. He was then full of
enthusiasm for extending his frontiers to the south, and
dreamt of an Egypt extending to the Lakes Victoria and
Albert Nyanza, including a coast line from Suez to Zanzibar.
The late Sir Samuel Baker's annexation of the Equatorial
regions, which was at this time being administered by the
late General Gordon, his first appointment under Egypt, had
been well received by England and the Continental powers ;
and France, who at that time considered she ranked diplo-
matically before all others tn Egypt and that her influence in
the country was paramount, did not put any obstacles in the
way of the Khedive's wish for revenge, although she alcHie was
fully aware of all that had taken place through her Consul
and the French Catholic mission. What had actually occurred
in Abyssinia was not known to the other European powers,
so preparations for a new campaign were actively pushed
forward, and Tel-el-Kebir was made the depdt for the expedi-
tion. This place seems to be mixed up with disasters to
Egypt, and in April and May 1876 it received the remnants
of the Abyssinian catastrophe, and it also saw, a little over
six years afterwards, the defeat of her own army by the
English ; its leader, Arabi Pasha, also having taken part in
the Abyssinian campaign, and started for Massowah from
Tel-el-Kebir, the place where he was also overthrown.
While the expedition was being got together in Egypt,
the officials at Massowah and Keren were busy securing
transport and intriguing with Ras Waldenkel, who was again
in favour with King John, but who again turned traitor to his
country and joined the Egyptians with a force of over 4000
men, which he had got t<^ether after the first Egyptian
defeat It was composed of all the bad characters of Tigri
and Amhara, whom King Johannes and his other leaders were
well rid of, and instead of proving a useful ally to the Egyptians,
was hereafler a source of a great deal of trouble and expense.
In February 1876 the Egyptian army left the environs of
Massowah for the Gura plateau vta-the Kiagour pass. Some
of the sources of the Mareb river spring from this plateau,
which is well watered and very fertile. The number of the
ABVSSrNIAN HISTORY
27
invading force was never publUhcd, but it was known that the
Egyptians had at least 20,000 men sent from Egj-pt, which
did not include the regiments in the Soudan that proceeded
to Abyssinia, or the irregular troops and Waldenkel's followers.
The Egj'ptian troops were commanded by Rhatib Pasha.
Hassan Pasha, a son of the Khedive, accompanied the
expedition for his father's political purposes, and Loring
'ash^ an American military man, and not an adventurer as
as been stated, was attached to the staf- He hiid seen
plenty of service in the United States during the Civil War.
and had lost an arm in action. The troops were a well-drilled,
fine set of men. and on parade or at a review might be con-
sidered a mode! army. Their rifles were the Remington
breech-loader, and their artillery consisted of several batteries
of brccch-loading Krupp field guns, mountain batteries, and
rocket tubes. Their eoininissariat was ample, and they
carried everything with them for permanently occupying the
country. It was the opinion of the English Consul-Gcneral
in Egypt, Genera) Stanton, and other military men, that the
Egyptian army at this epoch was the finest native army that
existed, and it had been brought to this perfection by a com-
petent staff of American oflieers who had seen plenty of
service in their country.
The position chosen at Gura by the Eijyptian staff for the
operations against Abyssinia, which included the taking of
Adowa and the Mareb as a boundary, was in a more open
country than the cramped and rocky ground of tlie Gundet
valley, but still tlic surface of tlic environs of this fortified
camp was much broken and offered good cover to an approach
within short musket range. The line of communications was
wor»c than that on the higher Hamasen plateau, and to the
[west of the road were broken and rugged hills wliich offered
Bo obstacle to the Abyssinums to manoeuvre over with their
bare feet, but were a great hindrance to a booted soldier
caxrying his kit and rations. The fighting commenced by
the Aby&siniaiis firing on the fortified camp, which naturally
being of large mxe, offered a good tanjet to the Abyssinian
marksmen, but they retired, not having come to very close
quarters. On the next day the king's army was seen some
miles off, advancing to the attack. The Egyptians left their
entrenchments and formed in order of battle ; but there
seems to have been many mistakes made, and their forma*
tlon, owing to the bad nature of the ground, was not the
most advantageous.
Ufa
28 MODERN ABYSSINIA
The Abyssinians outnumbered the Egyptians in the ratio
of about four to one, there being about 60^000 fighting men
of the former and about 15,000 of the latter on the ground.
The engagement ended disastrously for the invaders, who,
being outnumbered, were consequently outflanked by th«r
more mobile foe and had to retire within the redoubts of their
camp; and the day's work ended by the Abyssinians resting
for tilt night in the vicinity, and part of the force under Ras
Aloula the same evening cutting the line of communications
with Kiagour. The battle commenced the next day by the
Abyssinians trying to storm the fortifications, which they did
not succeed in doing, not being well enough armed with
breech-loading rifles to keep down the fire of the defenders.
They partially filled up the ditches round some of the re-
doubts and nearly succeeded in obtaining an entrance, but
they had to abandon the attack on account of their heavy
loss. This ended all the important fighting, but there were
afterwards many minor fights on the roads and at the small
outposts before an armistice was concluded.
Ras Waldenkel retired to the Hamasen on the second
day's fight, and on the entire defeat of the Egyptians to the
Bcgos country. He shortly commenced to raid and devastate
the scat of his old Government, and turned the Hamasen
plateau, formerly known by the name of the plain of the
thousand villages, owing to its fertility and industrious
population, into a howling wilderness of ruined houses,
witii a few half-starved peasantry. The nameless horrors
that have been perpetrated in this once happy country
are impossible to describe, nor would they be believed if
they were put on paper.
Rhatib Pasha, who was a very enlightened and capable
man as Egyptian officials go, commenced overtures for peace
with King Johannes which, however, came to nothing, and the
remnants of the Egyptian army during the armistice were
allowed to retire on Massowah and Keren, after having lost
in the two campaigns over 20,000 men, besides all their arms,
cannon, military train, commissariat, treasure chests, and in
fact everything they brought with them into the country.
A great deal might be written on this attempt of Egypt on
Al^ssinia, but, as it is a thing of the past and Egypt will
never attack Abyssinia again, it is only a matter of very
secondary importance. One result of these campaigns was
sowing the seeds of mutual dislike and mistrust between the
officers of Egyptian nationality and those of Turkish and
ABYSSINIAN HISTORY
39
L Circassian origin in the Egyptian army. Arab! Pasha was
Itiicn only a colonel of commissariat at Massowab. Osman
[Pasha Riflci, a Circassian Turk, was a brigadicr-gcncral, and
afterwards became Minister of War in Cairo. These two and
their partisans and followers commenced their quarrels aC
Massowah, and they continued them in Egypt and it ended
by getting rid of the high officers of Turkish origin in the
Egyptian service and then with Arabi Pasha's rcbcltion and
English interference in Eg>'pt.
Immediately after the defeat of the Egyptians, Kii^
Johannes made haste to the south of his dominions to settle
with King Menciek who had invaded Abyssinia. He was
a^in victorious, and Mcnclck had to do homage to King
Johannes, who was now undisputed monarch of the whole of
kbysstnia, the two minor kings being Menciek of Shoa and
rdtlaihatmAnout of the lar^e and fertile Godjam province.
roan«nge the succession so there should be no quarrelling at
: death of King Johannes, a marriage took place between
his only legitimate son, named Ras Arcya Selassie, and
Zohdcta, a daughter of King Menelck. Ras Arcya Selassie
was to succeed Kii^ Johannes, and then any son that might
result from the marriage. King Meneiek having no legitimate
son, the succession to the throne of Shoa on his ilealh would
be left an open question. Thus early in 1877 the whole of
Abyssinia mipht be said to be quiet, and there was at last a
chance of its being able to improve and become a very im-
portant country. Waldenkel was the only cause of anxiety,
and be was only a local nuisance necessitating the king keep*
ing a larger force under arms in the Hamasen than he other-
wise would have done.
The command of the northern army and the governorship
of the Kamasen at the death of Has Bariou, who was killed
in a battle fought between his forces and those of Waldcnkel.
was given by tlie king to that very gifted lighting man, Ras
Aloula. He was the son of one of the minor chiefs of Tembien,
and had known King Johannes from his childhood; he had
been with the king since the earliest part of his career, and
had won his i^urs as a bold and brave leader and a clever
ftiategist before hi.s twentieth year. I can only say that my
acquaintance with titis man lasted for nearly twenty years,
and I alwaysfoundhimmost kind and sincere, and what he said
amid be believed; and, although he defeated the Italians, they
bore him no ili-wiU, aiid they used to call bim the Garibaldi
p4ir Abyssinia.
80 MODERN ABYSSINIA
General Gordon's first introduction to the Abyssiniaos
was in March 1877, and I am afraid from what he saw of
that arch scoundrel, traitor and thief, Ras Waldenkel, and
his followers, who were the scum of the north, that he came
to the conclusion that the whole race were more or less the
same. He formed, as it turned out, an opinion on the
Abyssinian question which was not justified then, and has
proved to be an incorrect one by events. He tried to make
peace with Abyssinia and never could do so, owing to his
having no independent witness, and when asked by Kii^
Johannes whether he was English, pointed to the "fez" or
tarbush he wore, which is the emblem of the Turk. He,
however, arranged an armistice in 1876 which was confirmed
in 1 877, and it lasted the whole time he remained as Govemor>
General King Johannes greatly admired General Gordon
and trusted him, and as long as he was in the Soudan, rela-
tions between the two countries were never strained. It was
only several months after he threw up the Khedive's service
that troubles again broke out on the frontier, and then entirely
through the fault of the Egyptian ofhctals.
For eight years, that is to say from 1876, after the defeat
of the Egyptians, Abyssinia enjoyed the blessings of tran-
quillity and good crops, and it was perhaps the most peaceful
and happy period of its history, and during these years the
country improved with rapid strides. King Johannes was
very popular, and he governed the country in a firm and just
manner, and it was during this period that we lost golden
opportunities to improve our position that may never occur
again.
Ras Waldenkel's followers soon deserted htm when they
found there was to be no more fighting or plundering, and
he was left with such a small force that he could not overawe
the Egyptians, and, finding himself a stranger in a foreign
land where he was disliked and slighted, he thought it was
better to return to Abyssinia and demand pardon ; this was
not granted, and on his return he was imprisoned on one of
the State Ambas in Tembien, and he disappears from
Abyssinian history.
In 18S2-83, before the Madhi's rebellion assumed lai^e
proportions, when there was a certain amount of confusion
in the Soudan on account of Arabi Pasha's rebellion and the
defeat of the Egyptians by the English, another Abyssinian
sought refuge with the Egyptian authorities at Massowah ;
this was Fttuari Debbub, a son of King Johannes' uncle.
ABYSSINIAN HISTORY
»1
Ras Arcya. By his plundering the northern borders of
Abyssinia and lcx>ting the caravans of the merchants trading
to the coast, he nearly brought on hostilities between the two
countries. In December 1883 1 was sent down to Massowah
by the late Valentine Baker Kasha and the late Admiral Sir
Wm. Hcwett to report on what was going on along the
borders of Abyssinia, and to do what I could to bring about
a more satisfactory state of affairs Iwtween the two countries.
1 found that the Goveniors of Ma$sowali and Keren had both
been harbouring the rebels ; the one at Massowah Dcbbub
and the other at Keren, the Uairambaras (or frontier guardian)
of the Abyssinian province of the Dembclas, by the name
of Kufda. Debbub, towards the close of 1883, had left
Massowah for Suakin to see the English officials who had
arrived there when the Mahdi'.<i rebellion had broken out in
the eastern Soudan with Osman Digna as its leader, and
when poor Consul Moncricff, our Consul, had aUcady sacrificed
his life doing his duty, to offer his SL-r\-iccs to the English to
attack Abyssinia. On my report of what he had been doing,
reaching Suakin he was put under arrest.
In ten days after my arrival at Massowah, and on writing
to the Abyssinian officials, I had everything quiet ; trade going
on again with the interior and the roads safe enough for
merchants to come and go about (heir business, and a pressing
invitation to again visit my old friend Ras Aioula, who was
at bis headquarters at Aditchlai. 1 regretted that 1 could not
accept bis inWtation, as press of business kept me in the
Massowah district I rode all over the Kism Samhar
country and along the frontier, only accompanied by four
natives, our only ami.s being two rillcs and a shot gun, and
by travelling without an escort I determined to show the
people I was not afraid of them. 1 found that the district
was entire chaos and confusion and had never been visited
by the Egyptian officials, and those in authority, instead
of being at their posts, were living in close proximity to
Massowah in perfect safety ; and the shepherds who form the
most numerous portion of the papulation had been living in
a state of terror, and whenever the brigands had required
money to spend in debaucheries at Massowali, they had
plundered the flocks of the natives and had driven them
into Massowah for sale-
t arrested many of these brigands aivd Iiad characters
and shipped them off to Suakin to be turned into irregular
under Dakcr Pasha, and it was these men that de-
82 MODERN ABYSSINIA
fended Baker Pasha, Colonel Burnaby, and the sta^ at the
second battle of El-Teb, and enabled them to get away from
that terrible battle-field where so many ^yptians were
slaughtered. The men I arrested were all good sporting
shots with a rifle, but utterly undisciplined in a military
point of view ; but had their own way of skirmishing and
scouting which is most effective and quite equal to our
book theories ; they never hesitated to attack a much larger
force, and they were equally as mobile as the Dervishes, and
they quite enjoyed shooting them down.
I have always found that the most eflfective way of
getting information in these countries is not to sit in a.
Government office and hear tales got up for official ears,
and examine spies and countrymen that are brought into the
town where they can be recognised by others, and who are
therefore in a mortal dread the whole time, and give answers
that they think that the Government and questioner may
like ; but to go out into the country without an escort and
an interpreter only, generally a confidential servant that
talked Abyssinian and the local dialect in case the people
did not talk Arabic, and speak to everyone that passes by,
or go to the shepherds that are attending their flocks and
get their news. There is always this certainty, that the
shepherds will not keep their flocks in danger, and that
some of their friends are on the look-out for robbers or any
force that an enemy may have close, so that ample notice
may be given to get their animals into a place of safety.
Ask them for a dnnk of milk, and offer them a dollar which
they will not always accept, and they are generally willing
to answer all questions, and very often volunteer information.
I have always found that the correct information is obtained
in the desert and not in the town ; under the blue sky and
in the open air, truth is far commoner between white and
black man than it is between four walls in a room in
a Government building. Intelligence Department please
kindly note.
My many years' experience in Suakin led me to believe
that our Military Intelligence Department was very badly
served, because it was inside thfe walls of the town instead
of outside, and the farce for a long time was kept up of
partly covering the spies in a sack or in a garment ; their
walk or their legs were recognised by some peculiarity or by
some scar, and it is known to very ftm, but nevertheless it
ts a fact, that many people can tell even to whom the foot-
ABYSSINIAK HISTOUV
33
Doarks En tlie sand belong, and they can also pick up and
roUow the trail of a camel out of a herd and know the
different footprints of the different animals.
After the English campaign at Suakin under General
Sir Gerald Graham, V.C., in the spring of iSS4 was over,
Admiral Sir W. Hewett, V.C, was sent by the EnsUsh
Government on a mission to King Johannes, and from that
date England agiin commenced to have dealings with
Abyssinia. The king had surprised everyone in what he
bad achieved since he had been civcn the present of arms
and ammunition by Lord Napier of Magdala in the summer
of l86S. His character had then been underestimated,
and he had now won his way to the throne of a united
Abyssinia, despite many obstacles, and cerL-iinly with less
cruelty than any other previous monarch had practised.
King Theodore's rci^n had been marked by atrocities of
the most appalling; nature, and the result was that at his
deatl) he only had the fortress of Magdala that he could
call his own. During the whole of his reign many parts o^
his country were unsafe, while it was in iB$4 the boast or
King Johannes that a child could pass through his dominions
unharmed. His early experience also of the Taltal, Azebu,
Wollo and Yejju Gallas was most useful to him, and no one
before had ever kept these turbulent tribes in such gc
order. It is said that Cromwell was the only Englishman thati
ever did or ever will understand the Irish, and Johannes up
till now is the only Abyssinian that properly controlled these
turbulent people, lirst by the sword and then by kindness ;
they Are now nut to be trusted, and are a E^at source of
annoyance to the peaceful merchants and cultivators along
the road that our cx|)edition took in 1867-6S.
It will be seen in 1K84 that Abyssinia had been neglected y
by the English for sixteen years. If any intelligent Indian
trained oflicial had been left behind to advise and help
Prince Kassai, as he was then, we should now have had
some return for the money spent over the expedition in
trade and also the entire friendship of the .Abyssinian
people The country would also have been spared many
ntiseries; thousands upon thousands of human lives would
not have been wasted as thc>' have been ; and we should
have had an ally in a country that will yield our merchants
eood returns in the future, and a friendly population that is
Doond to play its part in the near future, not only in Africa,
but on our highway to the East, and perhaps remotely in
34 MODERN ABYSSINIA
European politics. Wtiat is certain is, that Abyssinia must
either be entirely friendly to us or unfriendly ; half measures
will always be dangerous. As an ally with either France or
Russia, and the open door at Djibuti, Menelek with his
enormous army will always prove a formidable enemy ; and
if unfriendly, our Soudan conquest is valueless, as it can
never be made to pay its expenses if lai^e frontier garrisons
have to be kept up.
I think that the late Admiral Hewctt, on his return from
his mission to Abyssinia, was thoroughly alive to the import-
ance of the country ; and had he lived, that his counsels would
have been listened to, and that we should not have n^lected
the undoubted opportunities that we had then, and that we
should be only too pleased to win back. It must have been
patent to the most ordinary observer, that unless we kept
our nation prominently before the Abyssinians and their
rulers, that other nations, especially France, would not be
long in trying to obtain a diplomatic foothold in the country
where she had several times failed. This they have already
done, and during the last few years we have played a very
secondary and not quite a dignified r61e, and are now only
trying to r^ain what we never ought to have lost, namely
the paramount foreign influence with prince, priest and
peasant ; unless we can regain this our position will always
be a difficult one, necessitating latere sums of money beii^
expended on frontier garrisons for defensive purposes round
the vast area through which we are now being brought into
contact with the officials and inhabitants of Abyssinia. It
is now impossible to blockade them in their highlands, as the
key of the road by which they can obtain supplies has passed
into other hands ; and although there are many ways into the
interior, I hardly know one by which it would be safe to get
out by should a temporary reverse to an invading force take
place.
In my book, " '83 to '87 in the Soudan," I gave a full account
of Admiral Hewett's mission to Abyssinia, and it would be
useless to quote from it here. In the appendix of this book
Nos. 2, 3 and 4, the several treaties made between England
and Abyssinia will be found, with comments thereon which
ought to be carefully read. So I now pass to what took
place between Abyssinia and the Dervishes, the second enemy
that attacked their country. The first approach of the
followers of the Mahdi on the Abyssinian frontier commenced
in 1884, when Kassala was cut off from Keren, the Dervishes
AUVSSINIAN HISTORY
85
vii^ blocked the roads. By Admiral Hcwett's treaty,
-King Johannes agreed to help Lng^land and Egypt to relieve
and withdraw the garrisons of Egyptian forts and the in-
habitants of the towns, that wished to leave, itituated along his
north and north-eastern frontier* All the arrangements and
details for carrying out this work were intrusted to the king's
fighting neneral. Ras Aloula, who performed his arduous t«k
and safely delivered the garrisons of Amedcb, Aigeden, and
Keren on the northern frontier, and Ghirra and Gallabat or
Metemmcb on the north-west and western fnintiers. These
five stations were the only ones throughout the length and
breadth of the Egyptian Souilan that did not fall into the
hands of the Mahdi ; Ras Aloula accomplishing what England
all hcrresourccs was unfortunately unable to perform with
Singal and Tokar situated only within a few miles of Suakin.
Late in 18S4 Ras Aloula was asked to go to the relief of
Kassala, which he consented to do, but was told that orders
would be sent him when he was to start ; the orders were
delayed week after week and month after month. He
informed those that had the management of the negotiations
that unless he received orders to advance before the rains set
in, it would be impossible for his army to go to Kassala on
:count of the state of the roads, and that the town would
{all from starvation before he could render any assistance.
Well armed as Ras Aloula's army wa-s he had the utmost
contempt for the Dervishes, and was longing to have a Cum
at the inlideU. lie was no fanatic, and did not object to the
Moslem religion so much as the Egyptian officials, whom he
looked upon as a pestilential set of robbers, their word never
to be believed, as they were at the bottom of every attack that
had ever been made upon his countr>'. Fanaticism was never
one of his weak points, as he never interfered with the Moslems
in bis govemorate, and several of his agents and many of his
soldiers were of this religion. He thoroughly understood the
Dervishes, and tliat it was not only impossible for him or
any Abyssinian, but any trac Mahomedan as well, to have
anything to do with them without, as he used to express
himself, being defiled.
It wa« impossible to find a more capable and energetic
lader in Abyssinia than Ras Aloula for dealing with these
men, and it was a great pity for many reasons that more use
was not made of Abyssinia at the time, as what they had
boco asked to do they had carried out in a most satisfactory
manner.
^hanc
^Pwith
f th
/
36 MODERN ABYSSINIA
In the spring of 1885 the GalUbat and Ghirra garrisoiu
had arrived in Abyssiaia, and at the same time Ras Almila
made his final appeal to be allowed to proceed to Kassala tc
relieve that garrison before the rains set in, which they dc
I j towards the end of June. In July, in the middle of the rainy
ii season Kassala fell, proving that the information of the Raa
and what he told the Egyptian officials had been correct ;
and it was not till August that further arms and ammunition
as well as money were sent from Suakin to him to get him to
proceed to the relief of the only Egyptian garrison that still
held out, and which he knew had already fallen. The Raa
has repeatedly told me that he informed the Egyptians that
the majority of his army is always disbanded in the month
of June to enable the men to go to their villages to plant
their crops, and it is only on Holy Cross day, in September,
i that they come back to headquarters, when all the planting
I has been finished. Unless they can plant their crops during
;, the rainy season, the expense of keeping an army together
I ' during the rest of the year is very great, as the soldier has to
be given rations instead of bringing them or having them
I sent to him, and the peasants in the vicinity of the head-
quarters of the army suffer.
The army under Ras Aloula left Asmara about the
j ■ middle of September, immediately after the festival of the
Holy Cross, and reached Kufit, where Osman Digna's army
I was encamped under the command of the Dervish leadei
j ' -^ Mustapha Hadal. Belata Gabrou commanded the advance
j ', guard of the Abyssinians, mostly composed of cavalry 01
mounted men, and on coming up with the enemy immediately
attacked them and broke his way through the Dervish force,
but got cut off from the main body of the Abyssinians, con-
) ' sisting of the infantry under the command of Ras Aloula
Belata Gabrou was killed soon after the commencement ol
the battle, and the cavalry lost heavily owing to the broken
ground and bush, but they rallied when they found themselves
some way in the rear of the Dervish position and only camp
followers to oppose them, and reformed. By this time the
main body of the Abyssinians had come into action and had
also outflanked the Dervishes on each wing and had driven
them in ; they had broken their centre as well," and a terrible
massacre took place, not a single Dervish being given quarter.
* The AbjuinUn cenlce wti in pti'l'n^ roimatioii, llie Uit time thit order ol
tattle wu used is AbyuiniB, u ibej are now all Mined with brecchloadiog riBa
and attack m loow oidei.
I
i
ABYSSINIAN HISTORY
87
Those that retired met the cavalry after they had reformed,
who drove them into the thick bush, and the day ended in a
complete victory for the Abyssinian army, wiio lost about
2000 men killed on the field and in following the routed
Dervishes, besides over double the number wounded. The
Dervishes left over 30cx> fighting men killed on one of the
positions tliey held, but this does not include what were
killed during the retreat, nor their women and non-lighting
men, of which there were a Rfcat number. Putting their
total loss at io,oOO would not be too many.
I had with me for over two years a servant who was
then with the Dervisheii, and he used to tell me all about
the fight and the incidents of the campaign and the fall of
Kassala. I-lc was a petty merchant and slave dealer, or
slave stealer, by trade, and he and many others of his class
joined Osman Digna, as they believed they would have an
eas>' task in defeating the AbysMnians, and that they would
be able to procure many women and children that they
would be able to sell at a high price at the coast ; the
women of the Abyssinians and Gallas alwa)'s fetching a
much higher rate than the blacks and negroes. He, with
one or two more of his friends, escaped with their lives, but
wounded, and lost everytliing they i>o».-^<;^ed.
Osman Digna was nearly captured ; the Abyssinians twice
passed him within a few yards while he was hiding in the
thick bushes with which this country is covered. After the
battle of Tamaai in 1884 he also had a narrow escape, our
scouts pa.<ising his hiding place among the rocks a few feet
above the ro^. Osman Digna has never taken part in any
engagement since he was first wounded on the attack of the
GovcmmenC House at Singat in 1S83, when he got the bone
of bis right arm shattered above the wrist, a bullet wound in
ihc thigh, and a sword-cut over the head ; since then he has
always allowed his followers to do any fighting there is to be
done, and tells them 10 go and fight while he prays for their
victoiy. He keeps out of rifle range, and the moment he sees
his men defeated makes off as quickly as possible to a safe
Elace. He alwa)'s has the quickest dromedarj' or the best
orsc that moncj' can buy, so is always safe from capture,
and if be was sighted and followed, the speed of his animal
would not allow him to be overtaken. He knows every path
and well in the Soudan, having brought bis caravans of slaves
by the nearly unknown paths from the interior, and he is of
course known to all the slave dealers and bad characters in
38 MODERN ABYSSINIA
the country, who protect him and give him information.* I
believe that Brewster Bey, the Khedive's English secretary, is
the only Englishman besides myself that knew this man,
and I had in olden days several commercial transactions with
him, and found him fairly honest but a very shifty customer.
He is a middle-sized, very thick-set and strong man, and
has one peculiarity of never being able to look a white man
in the face ; his chest is covered with curly hair and he has
shaggy eyebrows and bristly hair growing out of his ears
and nostrils, and once seeing him he never could be for-
gotten. Admiral Poulett, who was captain of H.M.S. Wild
Swan, had the honour of ruining him by capturing his slaves
and cargo off the Soudan coast north of Suakin, and in my
book, " 'S3 to '87 in the Soudan," I give his pedigree and
what he was. By last accounts he is still alive and likely in
future to give a good deal of trouble with his slave-dealing
friends.
The battle of Kufit cost the Dervishes in fighting men
and followers about ten thousand people, as nearly all the
wounded that escaped died afterwards from want of food
and the hardships encountered in the retreat; and it was a
pity that no forward movement was made from Suakin to
clear the Dervishes from its environs, as if Ras Aloula's
success had been followed up, it would have been the death-
blow to the Khalifa's power in the eastern Soudan.
The next fight between Abyssinia and the forces of the
Khalifa took place after the Abyssintans withdrew their
Gallabat frontier garrison. This was necessitated by the for-
ward movement of the Italians from Massowah and Menetek's
intrigues with them ; the latter, after the death of Ras Ar^a
Selassie (the son of King Johannes), who had married Zohdeta,
King Menetek's daughter, and had left no child, made all his
preparations so as to be prepared to seize the throne on the
death of King Johannes or at any favourable opportunity.
King Johannes was greatly worried at the time ; he had not
only lost his favourite and only legitimate son, who died of
consumption and was buried at Macalle, but he was threatened
by the Italians on the north, the Dervishes on the west, the
Danakils pushed by the Italians to raid the highlands on
* Since writing this Osman Digna hu at latt been captured trying to get
across to Jeddafa and Heoca, evidently to make arrangementi to carry on tlie
slave trade 1 hU capture will not stop the trade ai there arc many keen tnd«n
stiti leh, and Osman Digna was only partly a succeuful man, and there are
manv who have oever been caueht and carried all their ventures through. In-
stead or eiecnting this scoundrel ne will now end hii days in peace in ^^pt.
ABYSSINIAN HISTORY
39
■ tlie south-west, and by Menelck, who had received every help
from Italy, on the south.
He was of course the natural enemy of his western in-
vaders, but from the north he ought to have been safe if our
treaty with him went for anything- Look at our t)chaviour
to King Johannes from any point of view and it will not
ahow one ray of honesty, and to my mind it is one of our
worst biLs of business out of the maiiy we have been guilty of
in Africa, and no wonder our position diplomatically is such a
bad one with the ruicrs of the countrj- at present, England
made use of King Johunnc^ as lon^^ as he was of any service,
and then threw him over to the tender mercies of Italy, who
went to Massowah under our auspices with the intention of
taking territory- that belonged to our ally, and allowed them
to destroy and break all the promises England had solemnly
made to King Johannes after he had faithfully carried out
I his part of the agreement. The fact is not known to the
' Uritiah public ami I wish it was not true for our credit's
sake; but unfortunately it is, and it reads like one of the
vilest bits of trcacher>' that has been perpetrated in Africa
or in India in the eighteenth century.
King Meneiek had made friends with the Italians, who
were hostile to King JohaTines, and he was perfectly aware of
it, and he also suspected him with very good reason of also
being friendly with tlie Dervishes, as they were in the habit
of sending people to Shoa via the liluc Nile. In his mind
.there could only be one opinion of this conduct, namely,
Ithat the king of the southern portion of bis dominions
^ would spire no means and would stop at nothing so long as
he could obtain possession of the crown. The most pressing
of his enemies were the Dervishes, and he decided lo deal
with them first and then the others in detail. He therefore
commenced preparations for the defence of his country by
assembling a large army to drive back the Dervishes and
punisl) them for the cruelties they had perpetrated in their
invasion from the province of Metemmeh of his sub-kingdom
of Godjam.
Gallabat as a posse:ssion is entirely useless to the Abys-
Jnians, as it necessitates a large garrison being kept in a hot
unhealthy climate and the Abyssinian hul men cannot
[remain there for any length of time, as after a sojourn of
ibout a year the mortality amongst them becomes excessive^
its abandonment by Egypt and its relief by the Abys-
linians, it was occupied by the local tribes who paid tribute
40 MODERN ABYSSINIA
to King Johannes, he promising them protection when they
were attacked.
When the first big invasion of Abyssinia took place in
1887 by the Dervishes under Abu Angar, the Abyssinian
army was much scattered ; some were in the north watching
the northern frontier both against the Italians in the east
and the Dervishes in the north-west, others were at their
homes cultivating, and some in the south-east watching the
Danakils and Gallas, who had also been incited to attack
Abyssinia. King Tchlaihaimanout of Godjam had only his
badly armed population and few soldiery to meet Abou
Angar's latge force of picked men. The Dervishes gained,
after severe fighting, a complete victory, taking Gondar and
devastating the greater portion of the Dembea province, and
capturing many of King Tchlaihaimanout's family and many
thousands of women and children, killing all the useless
people that were too old to be of any use, and the young
babies that could not walk.
In the following year, 1888, another invasion by Abou
Angar took place, but in the meantime King Tchlaihaimanout
had got together the best of his remaining soldiers, who
were armed with rifles given him by King Johannes, and he
had also been reinforced by many troops belonging to the
armies of Ras Michael, Ras Mangesha and Ras Aloula,
chiefly commanded by their fituaris or leaders of the advance
guard. On this occasion the Dervishes were badly beaten,
as they never could come to hand-to-hand fighting with the
infantry armed with rifles, and the Abyssinians hanlly lost a
man.
King Johannes in the winter of 1888-89 had been making
every preparation for a long campaign against the Dervishes,
which he was to command in person ; and so that the
Dervishes should not be taken by surprise he gave them
notice that he was coming to attack them, so that as many as
possible might be got together at Gallabat to receive the
punishment that they deserved. He also wrote to the Khalifa
to tell him that he would march to Omduraman and attack
him.
The Dervish camp at Metemmeh was a large zareba-ed
enclosure, protected by a ditch and several redoubts, and it
is said to have contained at least tqooo fighting men and
perhaps double the number of followers ; dhurra had been
grown and collected in the fertile country for miles round to
feed this enormous force. The Abyssinian army was of
ABYSSINIAN HISTOKV
41
the same number, nearly all or them armed with
the Der%'bhes could not count an eighth of these arms,
and were consequently at a great disadvantage despite that
they were (ightinE behind entrenchments, which, however,
owing to faulty construction, they had to look over to fire
from, thereby expasing themselves to the Abyssinian marks-
men. The battle commenced soon after daylight on the 9th
March, and lasted till some time after the noon-day hour.
Ras Man);csha, the king's illegitimate son, and Ras Atoula
commanded on one wing; the king and his picked troops the
centre; and Ras Michael of the Wollo Galla country and
King TchlaJhaimanout of Godjam the other wing.
The Dervish position was thoroughly surrounded except
in one smalt space, and the seething mass of humanity that
it contained oncrcd a large target to the Abyssinians, who
did terrible execution before they made their final attack.
They burnt the thorn zareba Jn many places and filled up
the ditch, the men that accomplished the work being covered
at a short range by the rifles of their companions. Ras
Mangesba and nis troops were the first to gain an entrance
00 one side, and Ras Michael soon made good his attack on
the other. The mat and grass huts with which the enclo-iure
was crowded got fired in many places, and amongst the smoke
and confusion a few Dervi.she-t escaped through a part of the
fortificatjons that had not been attacked, and made off to join
a small force encamped not far away that had not taken part
hi the engagement. Facing King Johannes' bodyguard, one
small redoubt, strongly fortified and held by the black slave
soldiers of the Dervishes, still held out, and tlieir rifle fire was
doing som<^ execution. The king, getting angry that it had
not been taken in the rear by the troops tJiat had entered the
sides of the fortifications and who were engaged in ptundcnng,
weot forward to attack it with his followers. The gaudy
dresses worn by his stafT, with their silver shields and the
bright silks, drew the fire of the defenders. King Johannes
was struck by a bullet that traversed the lower part of his
aim and entered the intestines near the navel, taking into the
wound a part of his dress. lie still gave orders and kept
on the field till the redoubt was rushed, and those in tt all
kilted.
On the news of the king being wounded reaching the
different commanders of high rank, they all retired to where
the Icing was and left their soldiers to go on with the
pillage burning the houses and massacring the Dervishes
42 MODERN ABYSSINIA
who had not given in. Unfortunately the complete victory
was not follovwd up by the cavalty, or but few would have
lived to tell the tale of the Gallabat slaughter. The wounds
received by the king were at first thought not to be very
severe, the arm only bleeding to any great extent, but towards
morning grave complications set in and the king knew that
his end was approaching.
On his death-bed, before many of his great generals he
acknowledged Ras Mangesha as his son ; but no details of
succession were arranged amongst those present, and no
allegiance was sworn and no agreement come to before the
king died. His death occurred about twenty-four hours after
he was wounded, most likely from peritonitis; he had no
doctor with any European skill with him, and his wounds
were attended to by his servants only.
I learnt the particulars of his death from his own priest,
who was with him at the time, from Ras Aloula, and many
others who were present, among them being the brother of
Ledj Mashesha, who came to England with his uncle, Ledj
Mertcha, Envoy of King Johannes, who visited Her Majesty
the Queen at Osborne. Poor Ledj Mashesha, whom many of
my readers may remember in 1884, was killed in attacking
the redoubt from which the king was wounded, his brother
burying his body on the field of battle.
On the king's death on the lOth March, quarrels com-
menced as to the succession, and the different chiefs all
started back to Abyssinia with the captives and the plunder
including all thcgrain that they had taken from the Dervishes.
Many of them lef^ by night and more at daylight next morn-
ing. On the I ith, in the afternoon, old Ras Areya, the kirk's
UDcle, a man of nearly eighty years of age, who had played a
wonderful part in Abyssinian history, was left with a few
followers to bring back the king's body for burial. The
body had been cut in half so that it could be carried more
easily, and was put in a clothes box so it could be laden on a
mule. Only a few of the king's devoted servants remained
behind, with a few priests and their armed servants. On the
1 2th, while following the Tacazze road, the sad and mournful
procession was overtaken by a few Dervishes and some Arabs
who had returned on the night of the lOth to reconnoitre Galla-
bat, and when they found it abandoned they had followed
one of the lines of retreat to find out what was going on and
the reason the Abyssinian victory had not been followed up.
Poor old Ras Areya could have escaped, but he preferred
ABYSSINIAN HISTOKV
42
HP
lemalaTng with the body of his old sovereign, and he and a
few of his soldiers and tlie bravest of the fcing's servants, who
bad lo<it ihcir ail. and had no more prospects to live for, died
defending the remains of their old master. Ras Arcya was
last seen standing alongside the box containin.^ the Icing's
body, after having expended all his ammunition, with his
shield and sword in his hands, defending himself, till ut last
he was speared by a Dervisli from behind, and died fighting
gamely like the fine old warrior that he was.
J was told this by a priest who was present, and who saw
the Dervishes like a pack of dogs worrying round the last that
stood, and when the skirmish was nearly fmished he got away
after being badly wounded. The Dervishes were then breaking
open the packages and baggage. The last words of old Ras
Arcya were : " that he was now old and done for, that his time
had come, and it was useless at his age to serve another master
that he knew Hltle about, und it was l>etter to die like a man
fighting unbelievers, than like a mule in asLable." Whatever
may be said aeainst the Abyssinian of the higher class, and
be has many Uults, cowardice and fear of death arc not
among them, and they mostly die game. I used to hear
from two of Ras Are>-a's daughters at Macalte many tales
about their father. He had a very lai^e family and was a
gay old man.
The loss of the Abyssinians in the battle of Gallabat was
most trifling compared with that of the Dervishes, and after-
wards in the return to Abyssinia, it was only the very small
force tliat was left with the king's body that suffered.
Since the battle of Gallabat, although small raids by
the Dervishes have taken place into Ab>'ssinia plundering
and slave capturing, they never again tried to invade the
counir)' in force ; pcHiaps from the enormous loss they had
sustained at Gallabat, or more likely that the Khalifa had
come to some understanding with the new ruler. The
crvish f^bts in the north were aftcnvards alwaj's with the
Italians.
The loot obtained when the king's body was taken was
sent to the Khalifa, together with the heads of King Johannes
and his uncle, Kas Are>-a, and these trophies, together with the
king's papers and private efTccts, enabled the Khalifa to
magnify what was really a terrible defeat for his followers
htlo a great victory. The heads I believe found thetr way to
Egypt, bet wliat became of the remains of fallen monarchy
history docs not say. Little can be said in favour of the
44 MODERN ABYSSINIA
rulers of provinces that took part in the fight making no
attempt to recover the body of their king ; but they all had
their private affairs to settle now a clwige of ruler was to
take place, and all Abyssinians are entirely of the opinion
that a. live man is better than a dead monareh.
The country that King Johannes ruled over at his death
had greatly improved during the time he was on the throne.
The leading men were more enlightened than their pre-
decessors, and took more interest in the welfare of their sub-
jects. There were more rich merchants than formerly, and
owing to the brigand^e being nearly put down, internal
trade in the country had greatly increased and more foreign
goods were imported in exchange for the natural products of
Abyssinia. The peasant and cultivator were also better off
and less molested by the soldiery, as only enough men were
kept permanently under arms to enable the king to enfmce
his rule, and it was only in war time when expeditions had to
be undertaken that the able-bodied peasantry were called
out.
A lot of things have been published about Kii^ Johannes*
cruelty to smokers and to other people for petty crimes ;
these are all greatly exaggerated, and I never came across,
in all my visits to Abyssinia, a single native that had been
mutilated by the loss of nose for snuffing or lips for smoking,
as was reported by the king's detractors. 1 have made
careful inquiries into this accusation, and the only approach
to it I can find is, that on some four or five occasions men
caught smoking and snufHng in or near the precincts of the
royal palaces have had their lips and nose slightly scarified
so as, until the slight wound healed, they could not use
tobacco. King Johannes did not like the smell of tobacco,
and he certainly had a right to prohibit its use near htm or
on his own premises by his own subjects. He never pro-
hibited its use to Europeans, and has repeatedly told them
if they wished to smoke in his presence that they might
Some of them, I am sorry to say, had the bad taste
to do so. They would not have dared to smoke or snuff in
the presence of European royalty if these habits had been
distasteful at Court Ledj Mertcha, the Abyssinian envoy to
the Queen, was very fond of snuff, and he used to tell me
stories about the king speaking to him about his habit, as he
used always to have stray grains of it left on his clothes. On
one occasion the old man took out his silver snuff box, a
present from an English friend, and was going to help him-
ABYSSINIAN HISTORY
45
self, quite foi^etting he was in the king's presence. His Majesty
sakl : " Not before me, Lcdj Mcrtcha, whatever you may do
before others"; and the box went back into his pocket very
qukkly.
I think it a great pity that many people will tell "yams"
that have no foundation ; the more Ujey travel tlie more they
arc added to, and untruths get spread about, sometimes, but
not always, to the detriment of individuals that arc accused
of things they have never done ; and I am sorry to say that
there arc officers of Her Majesty's services that have news-
paper war services that are not strictly founded on facts,
and what is the worst part of it, these supposed deeds are
not contradicted.
Regarding the punishment of petty crimes durin;; King
Johannes' rci^n, they were no doubt treated scvcrcl)' ; but
the country has no smalt jails, and the corporal punish-
ment meted out has an excellent effect, and it is a pity that
flogging is not more resorted to in P^urope, as properly
administered tt has not the d^rading effect attributed to
it, and is only feared by those that deserve it. It would
pat a stop to many petty crimes, and the prisons would
not be so full as they are now. Mutilation, such as losing
a hand or a foot for stealing, is of course to an Englishman's
idea a horrible punishment, but tliis is never done for the
first offence ; whipping is tried at lirst to break the off'cndcr
off bis bad habit, or bclnft put in chains and made to clear
up the enclosures of the officials. When a man is met
oiinus a hand or foot, it is a certain sign that he was or
is an incorrigible thief, therefore visitors to Abyssinia should
keep these people away from their camps the same as the
Abyssinians do from their houses ; they always have food
eivcn them by the natives and sent on their way, very likely
for the reason that if they are not given a trifle, they
will annex something more valuable: A thief in Abyssinia
carries his character about with him wherever he goes, and
that is the reason why a man when he meets with an
accident dislikes havinj; any one of his members amputated.
King Johannes as a monarch certainly ranks before any
of his mcJdcm predecessors, and his death was a great blow
to Knglish influence in the country, although our Govcrn-
meot treated him so badly; and we shall sooner or later
no doubt regret that for political reasons we gave up to
Italy what wc ought to have maintained for ourselves, and
vbai could have been done for a very small expenditure
46 MODERN ABYSSINIA
that our country would never have felt, pennies granted by
the Treasury officials annually would have saved perhaps
millions of pounds and thousands of human lives, and we
shall be lucky to get through this business without another
terrible sacrifice of human life. My opinion is that it is
another of our lost opportunities in Africa, of which there
seem to be so many, and so there still will be until we
have a proper African department in London to look
after the enormous amount of work that this continent
entails ; our liabilities increase at a great rate, and the staff
that looks after the business is not increased in ratio,
so things are pigeon-holed, and the egg that has been put
away hatches unexpectedly and makes a mess which takes
a terrible amount of work to clean up, and often produces
a chick that is very troublesome and entails great responsi-
bilities. Pigeon-holing a document brought about the
Abyssinian war of 1867-68, and by hitherto n^lecting this
question we are now face to face with a problem that will
take a lot of solving and may end in a way that few
people little imagine.
I trust and hope that it will be settled in a satisfactory
manner, but I am very sceptical as to the result.
CHAPTER HI
ABYSSINIAN HlSTORY-^nAniMi
in
'\X7'E must now return to the Italians and their dealings
' ' with Abyssinia. It will be remembered that Massowah
was handed over to them in February 18S5, at the time the
second English expedition was being assembled at Suakin
wiUi the object of breaking Osman Digna's power and
opening up the Suakin Berber route, and also to construct
a railway from that port to the Nile; the route was opened
up after a delay of thirteen years, and the railway, the only
way to open up the Soudan to trade, is not built. The
position in the nortli of Abys.tinia was this: according to
the treaty made by Admiral Hewctt, Abyssinia had occupied
Keren and the Boros country, the Egyptian garrisons
bad been withdrawn, and Kassala was the only garrison
that held out in the whole of the Soudan. The inhabitants
of the north and their new masters were at peace, and they
were no doubt the gainers and in a better position than
they ever were before, as they formerly had to pay taxes to
the Egj'ptian Govcnimcnt for which they got no protection,
and auo for many years they had to support the exactions
of Ras Waldcnke!, Fituari Dcbbub, and Harrambarras
Kufela, who were nominally under Egyptian protection,
besides paying tribute to Ras Aloula whenever he came
down to levy it ; as although an armistice which I mentioned
before existed between the two countries, the question of
frontier and the taxation of the natives had not been settled.
The nearest Abyssinian frontier post to Massowah was at
htnda, and the neutral ground commenced at Sabagumba at
the foot of the Ghinda pass and extended to Sahaati, where
caravan.t were to be taken over by the Massowah authorities
from the Ab)-ssinians ; or, in other words, the safety of all
commercial caravans between Massowah and Sahaati rested
with the Massowah officials, and after that point with
Abyuinia. This was an excellent arrangement, as it fixed
the responsibility of both parties, and gave back to Abyssinia
V
48 MODERN ABYSSINIA
what was rightly hers and what neither Turkey or Egypt had
ever been able to hold. Keren had been annexed, as I
mentioned before, by Munzinger Pasha ; it gave Egypt a road
from Massowah that she required for political reasons, but it
was an annexation that was ill advised and not worth Bghtiag
about, as the commercial road to Kassala from the coast is
z/t'a Suaktn ; the two roads are about equi-distant; but that
via Suakin is by far the easier of the two.
During the first two years of the Italian occupation of
Massowah and its immediate environs, their chief object was
to improve the town and port and enter into friendly relations
with the neighbouring tribes, and by the close of i886 they
had taken the whole coast line from Rarat in the north to
Raheita in the south. Rarat is a native sailing-craft anchorage
from where goods are shipped to the Habab country, and
Raheita is to the south of Assab Bay, the first Italian colony
in the Red Sea, procured by the Rubattino Steam Ship
Company soon after the opening of the Suez Canal as a
coaling station. Through Assab Bay and the Danakil
country they entered into negotiations with King Meaelek
of Shoa, and through this road to southern Abyssinia they
not only sent him, but allowed him to import arms and
ammunition without consulting King Johannes ; this of course
he was soon aware of, and it made him distrust the Italians
greatly.
As soon as the Italians considered they were stroi^
enough to make a forward movement towards Abyssinia they
started from the environs of Massowah, which they had
strongly fortified on the land side, and seized Sahaati and
erected a small redoubt there on the high land commanding
the water supply. Ras Aloula at that time had left Asmara
his headquarters for the Basen country in the direction of
Kassala to punish the Dervishes for raiding the Dembelas
provinces. On hearing the news of the Italian advance he
returned to Asmara and informed the Italian officials that
they were infringing the treaty between Abyssinia, Egypt
and England, and that any further movement of troops
towards Sahaati would be considered a hostile action and
would be treated accordingly. He also pointed out that the
redoubt was built on the high land and could only be used for
one purpose, namely against Abyssinia. The answer to his
letter was the strengthening of die redoubt and an increased
garrison. Ras Aloula then advanced to Ghinda and the
Ailet plain just above Sahaati, and on the dispatch of a
ABYSSINIAN UISTOllY
49
itmng body of troops from Mnssowah to Sahaatr, the Ras
having leamt of their departure from his spies, and before
they could arrive at the fortifications that had been erected,
be attacked them at Dt^ali, about a mile from the commcncc-
mcat of the water at Sahaati, and entirely defeated them ; a
very few, and those nearly all wounded, getting back to
Massowah. "Hie Abyssinian* as customary mutilated tlte
dead, which created great indignation at the time ; in another
part of this book I explain the reason, and no doubt it will
take a great many years before this custom dies out. intercourse
with more civilised people and education will only put a stop
to iL I believe the American and Canadian Indians when
they fight still take scalps, and their possession is considered a
mark of valour the same as medals to the civilised soldier.
Dogali was the first and only fight that took place between
the Italians and Abyssinians during the reign of King
Johannes, and the Italians After the battle sent to Ma.ssowah
■a very large force of troops of all arms and awaited in their
tcTTitor)' further attacks from the Ab>'ssiiiian5 that never
place. There were faults on both sides ; according to
our English treaty with Abyssinia, the Italians had no right
to go on tite high ground round Snhaati and fortify it, nor
did they justify their advance, which they could easily have
doae t^ saying it was a defensive measure acainst the
Dervishes ; and Ras Aloula was in the wrong for going
er than Sahaati and attacking the Italians in their own
zone, but no frontier general, in any part of the world, would
allow neutral territory to be occupied and fortified without
doing what he could to prevent his enemy from seizinj^ and
erecting fortifications on a strategical position that did not
long to him. Appendix V. gives the names of the Governors
the Italian colony of Erithrea and the dates that the>- took
command, and from it can be Ntcn that the fre<|ucnt change
of ruleT5 must have liad a detrimental effect on the welfare
of the colony.
The lirst forward movement of the Italians into Abyssinia
took place towards the end of 1 889. some time after the death
'King JQhanne:t,and when King Meneiek liad not y« made
bis position as King of Kings of Ethiopia, and when
iqiutcs were still rife amongst the Tigrcans and Amharans,
e advance of the Italians was unopposed, and once they
niade good thdr foothold on Uie upper plateau and
led themselves no Abyssinian force could drive them
out, and the only fear was that if a big reverse in the open
D
^ Dcrv
mferth.
Vzooe,
" aU
1' do
^^ coi
50 MODERN ABYSSINIA
took place and the forts were invested, that they might &U
fron) starvation before reinforcements could arrive from Italy.
There is no doubt, hoivever, that the Italians through Count
Antonelli, their envoy to King Meneiek, had come to an
agreement t<^ether that Italy should help him to the throne^
and the price should be the provinces of Bc^os, Hamasen
and Oculu-cussei, with the March, Belessa, and Mai Muna
rivers for the frontier. This country they took at the time
and they hold it till the present day in spite of the Adowa
defeat It was the presents of arms from the Italians that
enabled Meneiek, after the death of King Johannes; to over-
awe all opposition in Godjam, Amhara and Tigr^ take the
Harar province and subdue the southern Gallas.
After the capture of Keren and Asmara by General
Baldissera in December 1889, General Orero captured Adowa
in January 1890, and from the date of crossing the Mareb
commenced the troubles of Italy in Abyssinia. They were
perfectly capable of warding off any attack made by the rulers
of Tigr^, but not strong enough as regards finances to cope
with a united Abyssinia. There is no doubt that if they had
remained within the before-mentioned provinces, with the
Mareb, Belessa, and Mai Muna rivers as a frontier, that their
colony would have been a success, and they would have been
saved all the miseries and expense they were hereafter put to.
In 1894 they commenced their disputes with Meneiek,
which arose over the interpretation of the Ucciali treaty,
and after the seizure of Adowa it was patent to King
Meneiek that the Italians did not intend to be content with
what they agreed to with him, and that they wanted the
province of Tigrd as well, and he soon found friends to help
him in the French and Russians ; the former wishing him to
open up his country from their new port of Djibuti, which
they took as their part of the division of the Egyptian coast
line when Africa was cut up into spheres of influence ; the
English, who then occupied the village of Tadjourrah in the
gulf of that name, marching their troops out from one side
of the town while the French came in at the other.
The Russians, who claim to be of nearly the same religion
as the Abyssinians, are trying to get a foothold in Africa by
an alliance with Meneiek, and they also tried to get a seaport
or coaling station from him. King Meneiek had no coast
port to give away, as the coast line ceased to belong to
Abyssinia many centuries ago. Their last outlet to the sea
was at Adulis, the port for Abyssinia during the Axumite
ABYSSINIAN HISTORY
51
' dynasty, which they lost when the Ihfahomedan invasion took
place. The late Russian game of bluff, landini; at Kohcita,
did not succeed ; althoujjh it is possible for the French, if they
wish to obtain further Russian aid, to let that nation in at
either a small island on the coast near Fcrim or at Obock
which used to be their headquarters, and then in time of war
botb nations would have a coaling station on our line of
commerce to the East.
Ir 1894 R.-LS Mange-ilia, who was Prince of Tigr6 before
his fathei^s death at Gallabat, and had been confirmed in his
govtmorate by the new ruler, complained to King Meneiek
of the inlriRues of the Italians in Tigr^, and that they would
□ot retire from Adowa until their version of the treaty of
Ucciali Itad been accepted, which entailed King Menelek's
rrLations with all foreign powers passing through their hands.
Ras Mangcsha was commanded to visit King Mcnelck in
Shoa to obtain instructions, and there received orders to
return to his country and drive back the Italians over the
Mareb n'vcr, nnd that aid should be sent him. Ras AlouU,
who had al<io gone to King Menelck as he had had di.<tpute5
with Kas Mangcsha, remained behind at Adese Ababa and was
treated with great honour by the king, notwithstanding he
bad commanded troops against him in King Johannes' time.
Ras Mangcsha on his return from the capital crossed into
Italian territory by a parallel road (that runs down the
Mareb valley) to the Adigrat-Scnafc route and met the
Italians at Coatit in January 1S95 under Generals Baratieri
and Antnondi, where he was defeated after a very hard fought
battle and retreated to Senafe and took tip his quarters at Uie
old English encampment, where a few days afterwards he was
■urprised, owing to his not holding the Cascasse pass, and
FagaJn defeated, retiring into the province of Ti^ire.
The same year, after tlic rains were over, the Italians
received further reinforcenientt from Italy and again ad-
ivanced into Tigr& General Baratieri occupied Adowa and
'unwisely allowed his native soldiers to loot the town while
the inhabitants were absent and were giving their submis-
sion to him, thereby making himself ver^- nn[>oiitilar. The
Italiaiu advanced to Tembien and Kndcrta provinces, and
Mangesha was aeain defeated at Dcbra Haila, but the
ck on Ras Hagos fort near Abbi Addi, in the province
of Tcmbicn, did not succeed. The Italians then occupied
Macalle, where the late King Johannes had a very fine palace
planned and built by an ItalLin, helped by skilled carpenters
52 MODERN ABYSSINIA
and masons, and erected a very strong fort on the neigh-
bouring hill of Edda Jesus, and also pushed forward a force
to Amba Alagi, at the top of the pass that leads down to the
Aschangi lake. The English expedition went past Amba
Alagi, and one of their chief camps on the line of march to
Magdala was at Antalo, within about an hour and a halfs
easy ride of Macalle. This ended the advance of the Italians,
and at the end of iSg; it may be said that they had nearly
the whole of the province of Tigr£ in their hands.
Menelek was now thoroughly alarmed, and immediately
sent Ras Merconen with his well-armed troops from the
Harar province to the aid of Ras Mangesha and the
Tigr^ans. The Italian policy was never given to the public,
so it can only be conjectured what their aim was by events
that have taken place. Their iirst fault seems to have been
in undertaking a campaign of such a magnitude with too
small an army, and not spending enough money in subsidising
the native minor chiefs ofTigr^ and arming their followers
with modern rifles, so as to put them on an equal footing
with the troops commanded by King Menelek and his generals;
besides, up to this date the Italian policy in Erithrea had
not been a success and the inhabitants of the north did
not speak well of them, and they had failed to retain their
native population by very many grave errors, and pursuing a
purely military regime instead of one that would have kept the
native on his property and have attracted others to come and
settle in their colony, which was in 1895 absolutely in a worse
state than it had ever been before.
In December Ras Merconen appeared unexpectedly with
his army before Amba Alagi, and on the 2nd December a
battle took place in which the Italians were entirely defeated
and had to retreat on Macatle. On the 8th of the month
an engagement took place at Macalle which was undecided
and the Italians retired to their fortifications, which had a
very strong garrison but badly provisioned. The rest of
the Italian forces fell back on Adigrat, and Adowa was
abandoned.
The siege of Macalle commenced on the 8th December
1895 and lasted until the znd January 1896, when it had to
capitulate from starvation and thirst. Ras Menconen allowed
the garrison to retire with all the honours of war and allowing
them to keep their arms, and on the promise that the troops,
which were mostly Abyssinians and natives of the north,
should not fight again against Abyssinia. This promise was
ABYSSINIAN HISTORY
58
also taken by the Italian officers, and the fact should be
carefully noted 3ls it cxp!ain.s what took place after the
defeat at Adowa to the Abyssinian and Moslem troops in
Italian pay.
The defence of Macallc was a gallant one, but when
superior and longer ranged artillery is brought against a
position, and the besiegers outnumber the defenders in the
ratio of twenty to one. and the rifles employed by each arc
on an equality, the victory in the end must be with those
who attack. On several occasions Ras Merconcn's troops
nearly succeeded in storming the Italian {MsJlion and
entrenchments, but he never could succeed in silencing the
Italian artillery, as they were both armed with mountain
batteries of about the same range, and his men were mown
down before they could enter the works. Seeing that his loss
was so severe and to persevere in carrying the position by
assault did not warrant the further expenditure of life, he did
what he ought to have done at first, waited for the first of the
Hotchkiss quick-firing guns with a longer range that Mcnelck
had procured from the French ria Djibuti. These quick-
firen were of a calibre of about two inches, firing both solid
and percu.'aion shell, and their range and accuracy were
much superior to the muKxIe-loading mountain guns of the
Italians.
The Abyssinians have a]wa>'8 made good artillerymen
when in>tnicted by foreigners; and their artillerymen at
present have been taught by French and Russian officers at
AdesG Ababa, and were not inferior in experience to those of
the Italians, who were also natives.
The position occupied by the Italians near Macalle was
<m tile nearest hills above the town; the church of Edda
Jcftus is situated on tlie top of a hill divided by a small ridge
of about 30O yards in Icnjjth from another small flat-topped
hill, on which is situated a small village of bullet-proof stone
built houses The ascent is most abrupt, and it is only
possible to be scaled in two or three places, and the road up
to it from Macalle is comaianded by botli hilts ; the position
of the Italians was divided from thatof the Abyssinians, which
was on a slightly higher large open ridge of flat-topped hills,
by a valley of about 500 feet in depth, and the distance
between the two was from Soo to 1 500 yards.
iThe water springs tliat the Italians dejwnded on for their
supplies were in a hollow beneath the church and the village,
but out of sight of both their forts, and were commanded by
54 MODERN ABYSSINIA
the Abyssinian position, so water could only be procured at
night time. On the Abyssinians finding this out they nlentl/
occupied the springs in force during the night, and prevented
the Italians rrom procuring sufficient for their troops, and
then every bucketful had to be fought for. The Italians
had nearly finished their provisions ; they could obtain very
little more from the town as it was invested ; their position
was swept by the enemy's quick-firers, so they could not show
their heads above their fortifications ; and the only thing left
for them to do, as there was no chance of a relieving force
coming from Adigrat or Erithrea, was to negotiate and make
the best terms possible with Ras Merconen. This prince is
a very able ana enlightened man and had visited Italy, so
gave the Italians much better terms than they had reason to
expect
I went over the Italian position several times while I was
at Macalle, and although the fortifications bad been razed by
the conquerors, the church, houses and trees were still left
standing, and they were all riddled by cannon ball and bullet,
a proof of the strength and precision of the fire kept up on
the place. The Italians made a great error when they cnoac
their position, but at the same time they did not know that
the Abyssinians were armed wiUi quick-firing artillery, and
their Intelligence Department seems to have been equally as
ignorant as ours * has been in the present war, and troops were
put to do work that was nearly impossible to achieve.
Neglecting, however, to fortify and protect their water supply
was unpardonable, and since their mishap, the water supplies
at all their forts in Erithrea have been properly defended.
Early in 1896, the Italians had withdrawn over the March,
and on receiving reinforcements from Italy the army took
up a position from Adigrat, which was fortified, to Adi Quala,
via Entiscio, making use of the two roads via Seaafe to
Adigrat, and Asmara via Adi Ugri or Goodofelasie to
Adi Quala- King Menelek was marching north when
Macalle fell, with all the forces that he could get together,
only leaving enough soldiers to garrison his country and
leaving a corps of observation on the Danakil frontier to
prevent any attack by the Danakils on his line of com-
munications. He was accompanied by his wife. Queen
Taitou, King Tchlaihaimanout of Godjam, Ras Michael of
• II will be vei7 intereiling to know whether ihe fimlt i" thU prewnt wu
cwi be attributed lo the Intelligence Department or not. Pethip! they pw
conect infonnalion, and it wai ignored ■■ neb tiM often been befoie.
ABYSSINIAN HISTOIIY
&S
»
the WoMo Gallas, his brother-in-law, Has VV'olie (a brother
of Queen Taitou), the Waag-Choum Gangul of the Waag
and Lasta provinces, and many others.
They advanced by two roads; the one via the province
of Shoa, WoUo, Vejju, Aschang( Macalle to Adowa ; and
the other via Godjam, Wadcla, Lalibela, Sokota, Tembien,
to Adowa.
Negotiations were entered into between Ras Mcrconcn,
on behalf of the king, and General Baratien, on behalf of
Italy, and before they were concluded the Italians very
unwisely left their strong position round Entiscio on the
last day of February to attack the Abyssinian position at
Adowa. A battle was fought on the tst March, when the
Italians were entirely defeated. A full description of this
fight will be found in another chapter.
The bistor>- of Abyssinia after the defeat of the Italians
to the present day is only known to a very few, and even
for those who wish to find out what is going on, their only
source available is from an occasional blue-book or from
an extract from some Italian, Russian or French newspaper.
The blue-books arc edited so as not to give any information,
and the foreign press publications are generally one tissue
of falsehoods. The little Italian newspaper published at
Massowah gives ss a rule interesting information about the
colony, but hardly any details of what is going on in
Abyssinia. Unless an interest is raised in a country and
its modem history is put before the world, the public cannot
come to any conclusion on the question, and I hope from
the facts t give that my readers will be able to form their
own opinions of what has been going on.
The return of King Mcncick to his own dominions in the
south after his victory over the Italians was no triumphant
procession ; his position was so insecure at Adowa that he
did not go to the old sacred city of Axum to be crowned
King of Kings as customary, and as all preceding monarchs
that had the chance had done. This was a fata) mistake in
the eyes of the northern population, and it leaves it open to
any pretender strong enough to commence a partly success*
fal rebellion, and getting a priest from the Coptic Monxiteiy
of Alexandria as an Abouna or Chief Priest to crown him at
Axum and to excommunicate the present ruler, to get many
folluwerB and to give him as good a right to rule over the
northern people as Menclek has at the present moment
Tiaa is what Prince Ka:ssai did before he became King
56 MODERN ABYSSINIA
Johannes, and although his predecessor Ktng Theodore was
crowned at Derezge in the Semien province, he afterwards
did what was equivalent and visited and prayed at the
sacred church at Axum.
The direct succession and clainriicg descent from such
and such a ruler in Abyssinia goes for little, and it is the
sword by which the country is ruled. No one knew it better
than King Johannes, who scorned to have a pedigree made
out tracing his descent to some old king as Theodore did,
and won his way by the sword, and kept his position by his
merits and by good government.
The brunt of the fighting round Adowa had been borne
by the northern cultivators, and they have been the greatest
sufferers in the last war and in the defence of their country
against the numerous invaders. They were also pillaged by
Menelek's soldiers from the south and much worse treated
by them than by the Italians, so there is no love lost between
north and south. Many of the peasantry had procured rifles
and lai^e stocks of cartridges from the reserve ammunition
which was taken on the battle-field of Adowa and at Entiscio,
and they and the townspeople combined together to defend
their property from Menelek's Amhara and Galla soldiery.
The return south was one incessant skirmish between the
cultivators and the strangers. The Azebu, Gallas, Taltals,
and other tribesmen that inhabit the country to the east
from near Adigrat to the Vejju province, lined the road as
far as the province of Yejju, and plundered the transport
and murdered all str^^lers, and a strong expedition sent
by King Menelek to levy tribute in the Azebu country met
with a severe defeat, and returned without the supplies that
were required to feed the famished army. The Abyssinian
southern army, on their march home along the eastern road,
lost more men in killed and wounded than they had done on
the field of battle at Adowa
The army that marched along the western road, being
composed mostly of Amharans and the inhabitants of Godjam,
Waag and Lasta, were not molested, as they passed through a
friendly country. I was at Adowa before another crop had
ripened, and although grain was a trifle dearer than in
ordinary times, it was fairly cheap throughout the whole
district, proving that the natives had defended their stores,
and that if the king had purchased supplies instead of trying
to take them by force, his troops would not have suffered in
the way they did on their return.
ABYSSINIAN HISTOHY
57
I
After his northcra campaign the king returned to Adese
Ababa, and immediately sent off a further expedition to the
south-west to annex more of the Galla countries and extend
his frontier towards the watershed of the Sobat river and
towards the highlands to the north of lakes Rudolph and
Stephanie.
The country, after the battle of Adowa, was governed by
the following rulers. The frontier general Jn the north was
Ras Aloula, who wa» generally moving between Axum,
Adowa and Adigrat, and wa.s constructing a new stronghold
at Hassena. about six miles north from Axum, commanding
tbc road that runs from there through the Laia plain to the
ford over the March river. Mis command was nearly in-
dependent of Ras Mangeslia. King Mcnelck had left an
agent at Axum to report to him direct what wa-t going on in
the north, as he never could implicitly trust Kas M.ingesha,
who was Rovcmor of the Tit-rcan provinces with Ras Hagos
of Tembicn as second in command. To have more hold over
Ras Mange^ha he had made him divorce his wife and marry a
daughter of Ras Wolie, a niece, therefore, of his Queen Taitou.
Waag-Choum Gangul was chief of the fertile mountainous
province of Waag and part of Lasta ; the other portion of
Lasta being governed along with the province oi Ycjju by
Kas Wulie, the king's brother-in-law. Ras Michael, an
adopted .ion of King Johannes and one of the first to
acknowledge King Mcnelck, was governor of the whole of
the Wotio country, including the Magdala district; and
King TchlHihaimanout, who was made a king by Johannes,
governed Godjam and Bcgemeder. The Seniien province
was rated by a representative of Queen Taitou. King
Menclek looked after Ifat, Shoa, the Galla country, and
directed the new armcxations to the west and south, and his
nephew, Ras Merconen, governed the last acquisition of the
kingdom, the Harar province, where Abyssinia is brought
atorc into contact widi Europeans than in any other part,
and where all tiie trade of southern Abyssinia passes through.
The moment King Mcnelck quarrelled with the Italians
aod saw that there was nothing more to be got out of them,
be commenced his great f^iend.^hip with the French, who were
not slow to do everything they pos.sibly could to secure a
poattiofl in his councils, and pose as his disinterested advisers.
There can be no doubt that had it not been for the French
mpplying Ab>-ssinia through the port of Djibuti with un-
luuted quantities of anns and ammunition, both as presents
58 MODERN ABYSSINIA
and by purchase from their merchants, that Menelek would
never have been able to have gained the crushing victory of
Adowa. For this help and services rendered the French have
won their position, and with tact they are likely to be able
to procure everything they wish in the country, and most
likely run their own candidate for the throne on the death
of King Menelek.
The present monarch was first heard of when he was a
prisoner at Magdala before the English expedition ; he had
then been away from his country for about ten years, living
mostly at Magdala, but not treated badly by King Theodore.
About the time when Consul Cameron was imprisoned he
made his escape and got back to Ankobar in Shoa and be-
came king of that country, his father having ruled Shoa before
him. He opened communications with the English at Aden
in 1867, but did not help the officials in any way by getting
information from the captives ; nor did he do anything more
in 1868, although he had then been on the throne more than
three years, except to write letters to Lord Napier, and made
the usual excuses, saying that want of food, etc, prevented
him coming to the aid of the English.
We hear very little from Shoa for some time after tlus
date, and what little information came fVom there was mostly
through the missionaries, who then seem to have had rather
a free hand in the country and allowed to do what they liked.
They have left nothing very lasting behind them, and instead
of trying to improve the Christian religion already existii^
in Shoa, tried to convert the inhabitants to their own way of
thinking. When missionaries of different sects get into a
country they always start in opposition to each other, and
their petty jealousies and want of accord does far more hann
than good. The Roman Catholic considers his teaching the
only one and looks upon the Baptists, the Church of England,
Swedish, and other missions as little better than a pack of
heretics, and the Abyssinian form of Christianity as perhaps
worse than all. King Johannes would have none of them,
and considered his own priests quarrelled enough among
themselves without having other forms of worship imported
to make a worse confusion.
King Menelek only encouraged them as an advertisement,
and that they were useful in procuring information and
keeping him in touch with the outside world.
The French are the only nation that have missions there
at the present moment His professions to the English Anti-
ABYSSINIAN HISTORY
59
Slavery Socict>' were not sincere, and the only Rood he has
done in this business is to forbid slavery in an open manner,
that is, driving slave caravans through the countr>- ; but his
proclamation seems to have done little good, as Galla slaves
in lari^c numbers are still to be purchased in the Yemen and
the Hedjaz, and the French do not bother themselves to
put dovm the trade, which passes through their dominions,
although they well know who ihe slave dealers aro and that
they carry the slaves across the Red Sea in boats flying the
French flag.
In 1886 King Mcnctck had to send away the missionaries
that were working in his country by order of King Johannes,
and although the latter has been dead for ten years, no other
missions have started in Abyssinia with the exception of the
Roman Catholics, who have always been more of a French
rralitical institution than a purely missionary establishment
The less said about the Roman CathoticAbyssinian convert the
better. The chief reason why Mcnelek at first welcomed some
of the foreign missionaries was that they knew trades and
that they were useful in teaching his subjects to become good
blacksmiths, carpenters, masons and bricklayers. Now that
he can procure as many Indian artisans of all sorts as he Itkes
from Bombay t-ia Aden, or Arabs from that port, he does not
want the missionary as he is more trouble than he is worth ;
and what with the French merchants who will supply him
with everything he requires, as long as he has the money to
purchase it, or concessions to give away, he has no more need
of other foreigners.
The Italians might have been the paramount power in
Abyssinia had they not quarrelled with the present king.
They were his largest territorial neighbours, except the
Dervishes, and they had a long start of every one in
iMgMiations with him and stood in the premier position
amoi^ strangers. After they had occupi«J the Hamasen
proviocc, which Mcnelek did not so much care about, they
could have opened up Abyssinia both from the north through
Massowah and south from Assab through the Danakil and
\u!tsa countries, and followed the well-watered Hawash road
Uat, Ancober and the Wollo Gallacountrj-. Another road
Assab that Ihey nc\'cr tried to exploit properly, was
: to Ycjju. one of the richest of all the districts and where
caravans of camels arrive from the low country, showing
therefore ao easy gradient and a road that could be used for
commercial purposes.
dlb— I
60 MODERN ABYSSINIA
Their policy was marked by many faults, and their
forward movement into Tigr6 was alt<^ether premature and
has made their African colonisation most unpopular in Italy,
by the reason of so many thousands of families having to
mourn the loss of their relations and friends killed in the
country. Their pluck in completely altering their warlike
policy, and starting one which is now based on conciliation
and commerce and remaining in the country, cannot but be
admired by every one who has studied the subject, and also
by those who wish to see a friendly European neighbour
imbued with the same spirit as ourselves marching hand in
hand with us, and opening up for the first time and perhaps
for ever this part of Africa to the blessings of civilisation
under a just and stable government.
It has been remarked to me on several occasions by
Italian officers who have played a leading part in Abyssinian
politics, that King Menelek really wished to quarrel with
Italy the moment he considered himself strong enough to do
so, and that instead of his being unprepared for the Italian
invasion of Tigr^, he had everything ready to oppose it
This is a point I cannot enter into, as I do not think there is
enough evidence to support it, and I consider on the other
hand that, despite King Menelek's life of intriguing and look-
ing out after number one, that the Italians brought everything
on themselves, as their undoubted aid in winning for him the
throne of united Abyssinia did not warrant their further
attempted annexations, and it was only natural for the king
to protect himself and to accept aid from the French and
Russians. He is also just as capable of breaking with them
when he finds no more use for them, as he was with the
Italians, or with the English, should occasion offer after they
have made friends with him.
The position of Italy and France are not the same ; the
latter has only one road into the interior, by which it would
be nearly impossible to invade the country, and therefore her
policy must be one of peace and commerce until the railway
she is making is finished, and her councils become accepted
by the upper classes, and her popularity so great with the
lower classes that she will be able perhaps to influence the
present ruler to name one of her many Abyssinian friends as
successor to the throne. Italy Is in a position at any time to do
harm to Abyssinia by fomenting revolts among the Tigr^ans,
Amharans, and the tribesmen that inhabit the eastern frontier ;
so without France and Russia's friendship and the open trad-
m
.VBYSSINLAN HISTORY
61
\ing door throQgh Djibuti. from vbere he can draw his znta
and ammunition, Mcnclck's portion without an ally would
neither be a 5afc nor a strong one
It was only aficr the defeat (^ the Italians at Adowa and
wbUc he had thi-ir prisoners as hostages in the cottntr>- that
the attention of Europe was drawn to King Menelek, and the
ordinary public only knew of Abyssinia as a country 90fnc<
where in Africa where En^^land sent an expedition to, to
relieve some Englishmen who had been captured. The
moment the news arrived in Europe of the Italian defeat
there wa^ an undigniiied rush among some of the leading
powers to enter into negotiations with the ruler of Abyasinia.
The French were second in the iicld with a diplomatic
mission : I met it going up, headed by Monsieur Lagardc, the
governor of Djibuti, in the month of January 1S97, on my
return to the coast from Adese-. Ababa, between Guraslee and
Debbas, in the countr>- of the Wiuv: Esa Somalia. At that
town there was a nominally Russian Red Crass Mimoo, but
really a political one, under miliury officers already st work,
and who had charge of the wounded that were hroi^ht back
from the northern campaign. A regular hospital had been
cfttabluthed by the Russian Government, giving aid gratis to
the sick and wounded, and was doing excellent work; the
king often visiting the place and taking the keenest interest
in the operations performed. Previously to meetiDg the
French Mission, I had come across other Russian offioets at
Burca. between Harar and the capital ; they were accompanied
by Abyssinians, priests and laymen, on tbdr return from the
pilgrimage to Jerusalem. Preparations were also beti^ made
at Djibuti for the joint mission of I'nncc Henry of Orleus and
Count Lconiticff, the Russian, to visit the king. A Spanish
Roman Catholic Mission was also at Adcse-Ababo.combiniw
religion on behalf of the Poi>e and diplomacy. Last of aU
was the large English Mission under Mr Rcnoell Rodd, now
Sir James KenncU Rodd, which left in the spring of 1 897,
and after remaining a few days at Adcse-.A.baha, returned to
the coast with a treaty as per Appendix No. IV.
It was not until 1898 that the Enjglish Governroent
appointed Captain Harrington as Her Majesty's Resident at
Adcsc-Ababa, where he arrived in April, and between tbe
time of the English Mission in 1S97 and his arrival, a period
often months, the French and Russians had the whole time
to make all their plans for helping Henclek in his annexa-
tions towards the Nile vallc>- and the Equatorial provinces.
62 MODERN ABYSSINIA
It was after Khartoum was retaken and the Khalifa's power
was broken in 1898 that England commenced to be the
neighbours of Abyssinia on the Soudan side. The Indian
Government had had dealings with the Abyssintans since
1884, when Harar and the seaports c^ Tadjurrah, Zeilah,
Bulhar, and Berberah fell to the English after the abandon-
ment of this country by the Egjrptian Govenimeot
The present position of a^airs between Abyssinia, Italy,
and England is as follows, and the whole policy is now being
directed by the English Foreign OfEce, so there is a chance
of getting something done ; they having also taken over from
the Indian Government the management of the Somali
country from the ist January 1899, so now the two offices
have not to be dealt with. Abyssinia is now surrounded by
Italy and England, with the exception of the small undefined
hinterland at the back of the French territory, which reaches
from close to Raheita to about a line equi^^istant between
the English seaport of Zeilah and the comparatively new
French coaling station of Djibuti. The whole frontier, with
the exception of the northern part of the country between
Italy and Abyssinia, is entirely undefined, and east and west
of the Mareb, Betessa, and Mai Muna rivers, nothing is as yet
known of the boundary. The frontier commencing south
and cast of the Mai Muna is not laid down by Italy and
Abyssinia, nor is the hinterland of the French or Italians
marked off, but an understanding has lately been come to
between Italy and France regarding their dividing line.
The division between the south of the French possessions
and England is arranged, and by our treaty with Kit^
Menelek made in 1897, the division between the two countries
is also determined by the most absurd arrangement of
latitude and longitude, instead of by properly marked
geographical boundaries, mountains, rivers or plains, or what
is better still, by tribal boundaries.
Either geographical or territorial boundaries can be
understood by both parties, and they are the only means by
which a proper agreement can ever be arrived at. The very
fact of making use of the mathematical divisions of latitude
and longitude, stamps in the most marked manner the
ignorance of the country which is being dealt with, and the
common-sense way in which divisions between two territories
should be decided. No native, not even King Menelek,
understands what the invisible lines used by our diplomats
to hang treaties on arte. I passed through the Somali
ABYSSINIAN HISTOUV
63
I
country in iSqS, and on both Mdes of thi» invH.tible line that
has been laid down as a boundary, complaints of the arrange*
mcnts were most rife, and it was impossible to make 5ie
oativ-cs understand why such arran^ments arc entered into,
or course those that make them do not have to live in the
country they are dealing with, and I can fancy I hear their
heartfelt thanks that they do not. It means to those that
do, that they have to cany out instructions against their own
better feelings, and carry out unjust agreements that make
the subjects that they govern not only (Jixcontented but very
often rebellious. These lines cut tribe-s into two nationalities,
and as they arc mostly shepherds and followers of the grass,
they liavc to pay tribute to both countries; or when agri-
cultural land is in point, their houses may be under one
government and the majorit)- of their fields under another,
entailing double taxation and a dual responsibility.
The Somali, under British rule, administered by capable
and intelligent officers, is really the most harmless person
that exists as long as he is fairly treated, and he is the
reverse when under an incapable administrator. Partly
putting him under Abj-ssinia, which our present treaty doe*,
i» a grave error for many reasons. There was no necessity
why we should have given any of Somaliland to Abyssinia,
and if in future giving up other people's lands to Menciek
along the irontier which has to be arranged is to continue,
we shall be looked upon as unjust, and shall lose our present
prestige for justice with the natives on both sides of the
bonlers. There can be no doubt that when first dealing with
the African native that firmness and fairness makes a lasting
impression, and once they see that you intend dealing
honestly with them, and that at the same time you do not
Intend to be imposed upon, that they can be led anywhere,
but driven nowhere. For this reason alone the frontier
question ought not to be hurried on, and a:> few of the low-
landers as possible should be allowed to be under Abyssinian
rule. TIic Abyssinians can do nothing for the future of these
wild Mahorocdans and pagans, while under English protec-
tion they will become useful subjects and good allies. What
baa been done hitherto with Mcnclek, is giving him land
(and its i»wi»er«) which does not belong to us, and this shows
policy that contains no trace of firmness, and absolutely
no fairness, so it is to be hoped that it will not be repeated.
The hinterland of the Italian Somali country is not yet
settled with Abyssinia, nor ts any part of our southera
64 MODERN ABYSSINIA
boundary vis-a-vis to, but far away north of, the Mombassa-
Uganda railway. On the whole of the west frontier the line
of demarcation is still undefined, and it is to be trusted that
the Abyssinian influence on that side will be confined to tlie
highlands with its Christian population, and leave to England
the whole of the Mahomedan element, and all those tribes
that have as yet not made up their minds what religion they
will adopt
From what the French have persuaded Meneletc to do
with the Equatorial provinces that he claims and the Sobat
valley, there may be some difficulty in defining and coining
to a satisfactory agreement together in this region. I do not
believe for one instant that it was Menelek's idea to increase
his territory so fast in that direction, but he acted entirely to
please the French, and to show his gratitude to them for tiieir
help against the Italians. The French had their own policy
to carry out, and it was only through a series of blunders
that it did not succeed ; little was known of the French ex-
peditions towards the Nile valley that were fitted out after
the English Mission left Adese-Ababa, and while we were un-
represented there. We know now, however, that they failed
mainly owing to the death of one leader and the ill-heaJth
of another. Had they succeeded, the French at Djtbuti
would have joined hands with Marchand from the Atlantic
at Fashoda, making a chain of posts across the continent
and dividing our northern and southern spheres of influence
in Africa. Had the expeditions from the east been as suc-
cessful as from the west, Abyssinia and Menelek's influence
would have been doubly valuable to them and more im-
portant than it is now, and there was every possibility that
the Fashoda incident might not have ended in the pacific
manner that it did.
England is still in the dark as to where Menelek's terri-
torial influence to the west extends, and how much he has
compromised himself with France will perhaps never be
known until some dispute arises between them. It is known
that he has given French subjects, including Monsieur
Lagarde, the French Minister, grants of land, and Monsieur
Lagarde has also received from him the title of Duke ofEntotto^
the name of the old capital of Shoa. Supposing no dispute
arose with the present king, diplomatic questions might arise
over these grants of land and concessions with his successor,
and the French Government might take the part of their sub-
jects and make it a cause of interference in the affairs of
ABYSSINIAN HISTORY
65
Abyssinia, the s.imc as they h^ve done in Siam and Mada-
gascar. There are records in history of a country interfering
with another on much less pretext than this would afford.
The mode that France employs in her annexations and
claims on territory is so well known, that it is not likely that
hcT new coaling station at Djibuti is only to be used for
purely commercial purposes and to supply fuel to the Messa-
gerie Maritime Coy. and her men-of-war. The lesson she
has taught us already with her dealings with the natives ought
to be taken seriously to heart by every one interested in the
weirarc of Africa. It is already well known to every one
visiting the country that she has already allowed the
Abyssinians to arm to such an extent that they have become
by far the strongest native power in Africa, and one that
would, if unfriendly to her neighbours, severely tax the re-
sources of most nrst-class Kuropean powers in men and
money before a lesson could be given to the ruling cl.i.'iscs,
and placing them in their proper position so that they cannot
keep the masses ta their present unhappy state. The ques-
tion of the supply of arms to Ab>'ssinia is not the only one.
All the tribesmen of East Africa can enjoy the same facilities
in arming themselves as the Abyssinians. England docs not
allow her native subjects to procure firearms of any descrip-
tion, and we do not protect them from lawless raids on
account of tlie expense it would entail in keeping garrisons
up country far away from our base at the sea coast The
Somalia, so as to be on an e<]uality with those that they come
in contact with in their commercial travels in the interior, are
driven to procure anything they require in the shape of guna
and ammunition to defend tliemselvcs with from Ojibutl It
is all very well ignoring the question, but both the Italians in
their sphere of influence, and England in hers, arc at present
face to &CC with this very complicated question. I have no
fear that either Italy or England will not be able, as far as
tlKlr subjects are concerned, to maintain order, as we are
botli governing by peaceful and popular means, but unless
we protect our subjects or put them on the same footing as
those they come into contact with, we must be prepared for
discontent and perhaps great trouble.
Tlic irarlic in arms allowed by the French at Ujibuti is
not confined unfortunately to the African .<ii<le ; there is an
tmintetTUptcd contraband trade existing from all places on
the French Somali and Danakil coast with the Yemen,
Hadramut, and Hcdjaz littorals, and the people who carry on
66 MODERN ABYSSINIA
the contraband trade between these countries are nearly all
slave dealers. They are of course as well known to the
French as to the Turkish authorities, who are only too wilUi^
to shield them as they are a source of private revenue to
them in many ways, and they take from them whenever th^
require a small boy as a servant, or a black, or a pretty Galla
girl for their harems, for which no payment is asked. What
does a Turkish official in the Hedjaz or the Yemen care
about Constantinople and its treaties with Christian powers
for the suppression of the slave trade or illicit traffic? He
leaves Turkey to enrich himself ; his pay to commence with is
insufHcient and he is often months upon months in arrearSi
and he of course tries to make as much money as he possibly
can in the shortest space of time ; and slaves are the most
valuable and portable property, as they can always be pri-
vately sold or given away, or sent beforehand to his protector
in Constantinople as presents, or taken with him on his
return to his country.
The slave dealer starts away from the French coast in a
native sailing-craft, making up lu's cargo with a little ivory,
some rifles and cartridges, and a good supply of tobacco,
mostly of the Indian and Persian kind used by the natives in
their water pipes. There is a Turkish Government monopoly
of tobacco in their dominions, so its price is high and the
profit laige. The boat, which will be flying the French flag,
is safe from search by the revenue cruisers belonging to the
Turkish Regie. It will anchor at some convenient spot on
the coast, some way from any Government post, where
natives with camels are waiting for the consignment, and the
caigo is quickly discharged and taken into the interior. The
boat then returns with coffee and mother-o'-pearl shells,
which also have paid no duty to the Turkish officials, to the
French coast for a further cai^o. This trade has been going
on for a long time and it cannot be put a stop to, as neither
Turkey, Italy, or England have the right of search under the
French flag. The consequence is, not only the Bedouins of
the coast, but the Arabs of the interior have discarded their
old long picturesque and highly ornamented flint and match-
lock guns, and are now armed with fairly modem breech-
loading rifles of precision. The Turks have already been
beaten in several minor engagements in Yemen lately, and
the Arabs have become more than a match for the small
militaty force in the country. It is not the thin edge of the
wedge that has been driven in by the French from Djibud,
ABYSSINIAN HISTORY
67
I very stout one, and the position of the Turk in the
Vcmcn and the Hcdjaz is already one of great danger, as
when once the llcdouin is well armed and Ands himself on
an equality in arms with the Turk, he will not keep quiet ;
and the present state of Turkish finance will not allow them
to send many reinforcements, or to undertake a long cam-
paign for the reconqucat of these two countries.
The English, or more strictly speaking the Indian Govern-
ment, cannot look un what is going on with impunity, and
action mu»t be taken shortly to either arm our subjects round
Aden, !to as to enable the chiefs of tribes friendly to us in
southern Arabia to maintain their position on their borders,
or keep a larger native force in Hnglish pay to patrol the
desert roads to prevent the importation of arms into our
sphere of influence between Aden and Muscat. I made a
tittle expedition last year into the interior from Aden, so as
lo be present at the time of a large Arab festival, where
tribesmen come from all parts of the adjacent country, and
I saw quite enough of the effects of the Djibuti contraband
trade, as many Arabs were armed with breech-loaders and
belts of cartridges that they had purchased from traders from
the opposite coast that had run the arms through, outride the
jurisaictkin of the Aden authorities. I consider that our
friendly chiefs in Arabia and Somaliland are at a great disad-
vantage. They arc faithful, obedient and true to the
authorities at present, but the question becomes, how long
will their influence last when UieJr subjects and those that
they have to keep in order on the borders arc better armed
than they are.
Disputes might commence very ea.4ily at any moment by
minor chiefs revolting against their superiors, and those to
whom Uie Aden authorities look for protection for supplies
reaching Aden by the roads from the interior might not be
; mbic to enforce their authority, owing to their followers not
being properly armed. Certainly it struck me at the time
[that our friendly Sultan of Lahcj was not in a position to
L enforce order, or to prevent the well-anned Arabs that were
[present at the gathering from doing what they pleased ; and
if in this case, why not in others as well. Aden is a place, as
ever)' one knows, of 6rst<iass importance, not only in a naval
and military point of view, but commercial as well. The
military and commercial elements arc now most wisely well
, •eparalcd, and in time of a maritime war would be more so,
the non-combatants would most likely have to leave the
68 MODERN ABYSSINIA
fortified part of the settlement and retire to the mainland.
But still the commercial element is so mixed up with the
official that the utility of Aden as a coaling and victualling
station depends a good deal on whether the interior is in a
peaceful or warlike state, and labour and fresh supplies can
be procured from there. Any outbreak s^rainst the English
Government in the environs would be most eagerly followed
both in Somaliland and Abyssinia, and also all round the
Abyssinian frontier, and disturbances in the country might
be fermented by a maritime power with which we were at
war.
The supplies for the Aden garrison and for the civilian
population came partly from the interior of Arabia and
partly from the Somali coast and the Abyssinian frontier,
and the trade of Aden is mostly done with these places ; with
disturbances amongst the local tribes the trade would be put
a stop to, and the supplies of all sorts would cease, and Aden
would have to depend for her food supplies from India for
the garrison, civil population, and the shipping that visits
this port.
The welfare of Aden and its prosperity plays a more
important part in the East than what tiie general public are
aware of. It is not only for its importance as a distributing
centre for trade, and as a coaling station for which it is
famed, but for its just government and as an oasis of law
and order in the centre of a large expanse of country reach-
ing from Europe to India, and including the whole of Arabia
and the eastern half of Africa from the Mediterranean to the
Cape of Good Hope, and for many years it was the only
place along the whole of this route where justice could not be
bought or sold. All the Moslems from the East either pass or
stop at it on their way to Mecca to perform their pilgrimage ;
its fame is therefore well known to the Eastern and African
Mahomedan world, and to the many traders from these
countries who visit it to obtain their supplies and get rid of
their produce. Any signs of weakness on England's part in hw
administration there would be immediately known and the
common topic of conversation at the native coffee shops in
many lands where we are now looked up to and govern more
by our prestige than by any force of arms.
Thus the question of ^e exportation of war-like stores
from Djibuti and strengthening the hands of our friendly
sheiks both in Arabia and Somaliland to counteract what is
being done by the French becomes a most important one to
ABYSSINIAN HISTORY
69
nil, as we cannot look with indifference at the policy pursued
by France at Djibuti of the indt^riminatc sale of arms to
all natives, no matter what tribe, who have the mone>' to
purchase tbcRL It is already a great source of danger, and
is likely to lead to grave complications in our administration
of the scmi-savagc natives in the neighbourhood. These are
facts, not fictions, that not only we but the Italians have to
fear, and is what is actually taking place now on a large
scale, and not one of the things that might be ; they may be
called pin pricks on bchulf of the French, but the whole of
their man^emeiU at Djibuti is one that has a most prejudicial
effect on the natives, and is no doubt done to weaken the
power of England at Aden and in Africa, and that of Turkey
to Arabia and Italy in Krithrca.
There is no doubt that, as far as the Aden side is con-
cerned, the present administrator, General Creagh, V.C.,
if allowed a free hand and more money from the English
Treasury, as it is an Imperial question and not an Indian
one, will be able to keep the sheiks and their followers
friendly -, but the danger is more on the opposite coast in the
Somali country now being administered by Colonel Hayes
Sadler, and it will certainly extend to the Soudan frontiers
in time, as the slave dealers niill exist and ihey will be able
to supply arms and ammunition to their friends in that
country, and it will therefore increase the difficulties of ad-
ministering the whole of the north-cast portion of Africa in
a peaceful manner. Trying to catch the slave dealers in a big
countr>- like the Soudan was nearly impossible in the time
of the late General Gordon, with all the facilities he had at his
disposal and when the country' was at peace. I know the
feelings about the Slave Trade question at home, and all
toy many years' personal experience teaches me Uiat we
shall never be able to put it down until slave raiding ceases
to cxUl to .tupply the demand ; the demand will never cease
until the Turkish official becomes honest ; the latter we can
never hope for, not even when Constantinople passes into other
bands, and slave raiding will only be put a stop to when
the centre of Africa is blessed by a European government.
There is no reason, howc^'cr, why we should allow slavery
to continue in our sphere of influence as wc do at present ;
tbcfe need not be any Act of Abolition and no compensation
need be given, nor is any proclamation required ; but the word
slave is not to be recognised in any of our courts of law, and
any one appearing at these courts stands upon an equality.
70 MODERN ABYSSINIA
Slaves then have a civil right to claim for wages from tii«r
masters, and the case would be settled between man and man ;
the consequence would be that the master would pay bis
slave, if he was worth anything, a wage so as to keep htm out
of court, otherwise he would let him go. Because a man bas
done a dishonest action by buying a fellow human being, be
ought not to be compensated by any government or any tax
payer because what he has bought turns out a bad bai^;ain ;
and the man who buys a human being is equally as guilty as
the man who supph'es him with the article; every crime against
humanity and every law that binds society together is per-
petrated and broken in the slave trade, and as it is the widi
of every honest person who studies the question that an end
should once and for all be put to this horrible traffic, the
permanent officials who can and will not put an end to it
should be made to do their duty. It is useless for them to
say it would bring on grave questions and local disturiiances
which might be avoided ; the only possibility is some little
demonstration by which the life of one or two of our resident
officials might be sacrificed, and their death in a good cause
would not be so much felt as there are plenty of others to
fill their places, and they would die doing their duty and their
name would be remembered long after and more so than if
they merely died of old age in their beds.
At present in the south of Abyssinia a slave owner can
claim his slave and the authorities return it to him ; thereby
setting an example to stave dealers that exists in no other
part of our protectorates, and proving to the Arab that we
are not sincere and are not of the same way of thinking,
and that they can get rid of their slaves legally in one part
of our dominions and not in another. I mention this simply
to show it is impossible for us if we are to be considered
honest to allow such an anomaly to continue, and what a
hand it gives to the French at Djibuti to go on with the
selling of arms to the slave dealers who are allowed to pass
through French territory and take their slaves away to Arabia
or elsewhere under the French flag.
The slave dealers in the French dominions do supply arms
to the slave raiders who supplied arms to the Khalifa and to
other outlaws in the Soudan, and these men pass through
Abyssinia. At present King Menelek does not put a stop
to the trade, but only says it is not to go on, a very different
thing. On my journey up to Adese-Ababa in 1898 i met a
great number of slaves returning with the soldiers (prisoners
ABYSSINIAN HISTORY
71
*
»
■ they were called) who had made the expedition to the
Shangalla country with Ras Mcxconcn, and they were being
driven along the public road, some of them in chains ; their
destination was Harar and its neighbourhood ; those that the
soldiers did not require as servants would ultimately be sold
to the buyers in the French dominions and be exported to
Arabia..
If influence can be brought to bear upon King Menclek to
put a stop to arms and slaves passing through his country, it
will greatly strengthen the position of our authorities in the
equatorial provinces and the southern Soudan, and make the
pacification and development of these countries a much easier
task; but I have grave doubts that he will do so; promises
with him go for nothing, and I hardly believe he will do
anything to the detriment of the trade through the French
sphere of influence to plea:se our representative at Adesc-
Ababa. Every stave raid that takes place in our sphere of
influence in Africa is a dead loss to the very thinly populated
countr>-, as at present there are not enough inhabitants to till
the ground to make it worth while for Europeans to settle to
purchase the natural produce of the country or to biirter
Manchester cloth in return. Every native now in of value
and should be looked upon as a unit that will increase and
take its place in the coming prosperity that will follow in the
footsteps of an enlightened and just rule ; and the moment
that the Arabs sec that there i^ no market for their fellow-
creatures they will remain quiet, and this will not necessitate
so many troops and such large and numerous garrisons being
kept up.
It will be remembered that before Mahdism broke that
the country south of Kashoda to the Albert Nyanza lake
was governed by Hmin Pasha and Lupton Bey, an English-
man, and in thctr provinces slavery might be said to have
been non-existent except in a domestic form which docs little
faarni and no one but a fanatic wants to interfere with, as
domestic slaves arc generally well-treated. The slave raiders
had quitted the country and gone oflT to Darfur, Kordolan,
and the Scnnaar provinces, and from these men the Mahdi
at first obtained most of his followers. There are two places
in the Soudan where tliese slave traders are still to be found,
namely, in Darfur and at nnd above Famaka on the Blue
Nile- There is a brisk trade between Famaka and Shoa in
scmtbem Abyssinia, which I daresay has greatly increased
ttic Egyptian garrisons block the lower waters of the Nile
72 MODERN ABYSSINIA
and the road to Kassala, and prevent slave caravans usin^ the
north-eastern roads. I shall believe that the Abyssinian
officials are sincere in their wish to put a stop to the slave
trade and the traffic in arms through their country when
they make captures of the dealers and their slaves but not
before ; as whatever the king may put on paper with England,
it does not follow that it will be carried out, and the profits
of the trade are so great that those who carry it on can afibrd
to pay very heavy presents to allow their caravans to pass.
lliere can be no doubt that French influence is paramount
in Abyssinia at present, and that they are entirely opposed
to the development of the country by any one but themselves,
and that they will throw every diplomatic obstacle in the
way of King Menelek making friends with those who really
have the interests of Abyssinia at heart, and wish to open up
the country. The French already possess the telephones and
the postal arrangements ; telegraphs are to be made, and a
railway from Djibuti to Adese-Ababa is being constructed.
Besides local telephones at Harar and Adese-Ababa, these
two towns, which are about 270 mites apart, are joined by a
flimsy and badly-made line which took fifteen months to put
up, and is always breaking from some cause or another ;
white ants eating the poles ; gales of wind on the storm-swept
downs, thunder storms and the lightning shattering the poles;
monkeys swinging on the wires or the natives cutting them
for pure mischief, or for the reason that they do not approve
of what they are pleased to term "devil's business." The
telegraph lines are to be constructed from Adese-Ababa to
all the principal towns in the different provinces, so daily
reports can be received from all parts of the kingdom.
The railway, which is nearly entirely a French concern,
is making but slow progress from the coast. In November
1S98, about eighteen miles had been made in about a year
out of the 500 miles required to join up Djibuti with Harar
and Adese-Ababa. The post, which is very unsafe and no
one can trust, runs weekly from the coast to Harar, and from
there is sent on to Adese-Ababa. Post-cards and stamps
are sold, some bearing the king's head, others the Lion of
Judah ; they have been made in France and the chief postal
ofScials are Frenchmen, who invariably like seeing the
contents of the letters that pass through their hands, as
they take the most lively interest in the correspondence of
foreigners that pay visits to the country.
The silver coinage that is trying to be forced on the
ABYSSINIAN HISTOKV
73
On
{K^iulatlon with as yet lUtle success is being coined in
Prance. It consists of a silver coin of the »ze of an
Indian two-anna piece, ami a silver dollar, with other coins
of a half, tiuarter, and an eighth of a dollar in value The
silver dollar is supposed to be the equivalent of five franca.
The coinage has been paid for out of the Italian war indemnity
of io,ooo/xa liras which was paid in instalments, the last
being paid in the autumn of 1898 and was collected by a
Frenchman.
The majority of King Mcnclck*s produce, such as ivory,
coffee, bees-wax and musk, of which he takes the tenth part
of what is produced in the country, is also nearly all handed
over to French subjects to dispose of; and from these marlcs
of confidence that the King hax in the French, tt is useless
supposing that the subjects of any other country will now be
able to participate in any schemes for the opening up of
Abyssinia from the .*ca coast. The commerdai de\-eIopment
of Abyssinia by France dates from the winter of 1896-97,
before the fall of the Khalifa's power in the Soudan, and when
French intrijjucs were rife with regard to the Nile valley, and
«hich only received their death-blow at thefallof Omduraman
and the occupation of Fashoda and the Sobat river in
1898. I think there can be little doubt that if the fall of
Omduraman had taken place six months later, when
'aahoda bad been reached it would have been found that
rench posts had already been established at convenient
tances along Ilie route from Berta to Fashoda, or from
allega to Nasser on the Sobat river. The jMovinces of
Bcrta and W'allcga are both claimed by King Meneiek, and
it was only after the battle of Adowa that the Abyssinian.*),
DO doubt at French instigation, pushed forward their conquests
towards the Nile valle>- and occupied these places.
The campaign towards the western borders of Abyssinia
was uitiustcd by King Menctck to by far the cleverest and
most cnliclitcncd man that the country possesses, namely
Rav Mcrconcn, and he absolutely had no fighting with the
'cr\'i»hes, except what was occasioned by his troops when
tundering the villages and enslaving the Shan)Tallas. On
is reiuni from the Berts province and the country bordering
tlic Blue Nile, he was accompanied by many Dervishes whom
he was 5uppa.sed to have taken prisoners. I saw these men
walking about in the Klialifa's uniform at Adese-Ababa after
the English resident. Captain Harrington, had left for the
:<nst, aod they received presents from the king and returned
74 MODERN ABYSSINIA
to their country in the month of July 1898, and it was not
till September of that year that Omduraman was taken.
That Dervish emissaries visited southern Abyssinia frequently
was known to all the inhabitants, and although, as I said
before, attacks by the Dervishes on Abyssinia were frequent
up to the time of the death of King Johannes, none took
place afterwards, that is for a period of nine and a half yean,
or from March 1889 till September 1898 ; the only deduction
that can be drawn from this is that the Khalifa and the king
had come to some understanding together, but the nature of
it can only be a matter for conjecture.
Monsieur Carrere, the French officer who had instructed
the Abyssinians in the use of the Hotchkiss guns employed
in the campaign against the Italians at Macalle and Adowa,
and who accompanied the king to that place, met his death
on an expedition towards the Nile which started from
southern Abyssinia. Another French officer with a second
expedition towards that district had to return through
sickness. These two expeditions left before those com-
manded by Ras Merconen and Dedjatch Tessema, The
force belonging to the latter general went to the Sobat, and
it is, I believe, still somewhere to the west of Kaffa or in
that province.
Great preparations were made for a large expedition
under joint French and Russian leaders to occupy territory
to the south, south-west and west of Abyssinia. The chief
leaders were Prince Henry of Orleans and Count LeoniticfT,
a Russian ; they arrived in Abyssinia tn the summer of 1898
accompanied with several French officers and a force of
considerably over a hundred Senegalese sharpshooters.
Their equipment left nothing to be desired, as they had
with them everything that could possibly be wanted, and
quantities of the most modern breech-loaders and several
machine guns. The departure of this expedition from Harar
in 1898 was prevented by an accident to Count Leonitiefi*
which took place on the 1st of June ; he had been explaining
the working of a Maxim gun to some Abyssinian officers, and
while he was standing in front of it someone fired it and he
was shot through both legs. He, together with Prince
Henry, returned to Europe, and what the expedition and
the French officers are now doing it is not known. Elephant
hunting for ivory was to be one of the sources of profit, and
the Count had any quantity of rifles of the largest calibre
which he gave to the Senegalese soldiers for this purpose.
ABYSSINIAN HISTORY
75
Scsc men were under very bad discipline, and on several
occasiatis, much to my disgust, I saw them patting their
officers on the back and addressing them in the second
penon ; these and other familiarities of a much worse
descnption were not resented. Although M. Ilg, a Swiss
gentleman. King Menelek's European adviser, denies, 1 be-
lieve, that Count Leonitieffand Prince Henry of Orleans have
been given any territory by the king towards the Iv<]uatoria]
provinces, they have given out publicly that they have
received grants of land in that direction which embraces
not only territory in the English sphere of interest or
influence, but also that claimed by Italy at the back of
their Somali coast line. It is not likely that these foreigners,
whose hatred to the English and English nation is so well
known, and who have always openly disputed English rights
in this part of Africa, would go to the expense of getting
together a very powerful expedition and supply it with every
modem arm, and drill Abyssinian recruits and put them
under French Senegalese non-commissioned officers, unless
they had something more definite than a verbal promise
from an African potentate. Supposing tliat their expedition
leaves for some point in the south, south-east or »outh-west
of Abyssinia which is not at present recognised as Abyssinian
territory, diplomatic remonstrances would not, perhaps, be
sufficient to remove them, and it would be a costly under-
taking to dispatch a sufficient force to eject them, and King
Menclek, backed up by France and Russia, might not value
the friendship of England at such a price as to order them
to come back,
The present position is fraught with danger and 5>erhaps
with many un-ieen possibilities of a disagreeable nature, and
if our rule in the Soudan and on the borders of Abyssinia is
to be a success it must be based on a peaceful settlement of
the whole question, which will necessitate small garrisons and
therefore a moderate military expenditure; as long as these
are possible there is a future for the Soudan and Aby.<tsinia,
but a gloomy outlook if a large expenditure is necessitated,
and a budget that will never balance and be on the wrong
side for many years to oome.
CHAPTER IV
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES
THE gec^aphy of Abyssinia is now fairly well known as
far as the rivers and boundaries are concerned, but there
is a great deal to be leamt regarding the Danakil country on
the east and the country to the south and south-west. The
best maps of the country are those made by the Italians, but
they are rather bewildering by the number of names they
contain of unimportant little places consisting peKiaps of
three or four houses. Unless a map is made on a very large
scale, say two inches to a mile, it is impossible to put in all
the villages and local names for the small streams, etc Many
of the mountains are differently called by the inhabitants
of the various slopes, and therefore names are not always to
be relied on. As long as the local market towns are marked
and those villages that possess a church, travellers will have
no difficulty in finding their way about the country, and
supplies can generally be purchased on market days to
enable them to proceed from one market town to another.
The Italian colony of Erithrea which bounds Abyssinia
on the north is well surveyed and the heights of mountains,
government stations and plateaux have all been determined,
and statistics of rainfall and temperature are kept and
published. The colony is watered in the north by the riven
Ainseba and Barca, which have their rise on the Hamasen
plateau near Asmara within a few yards of each other ; they
then separate, the one taking a nearly northerly course, the
other a more westerly one ; they meet again to the west of the
Hagar plateau in the Habab country, and the Barca continues
its course to Temerein, the apex of the Tokar delta, where It
splits up into different streams and fertilises the Tokar
district, its surplus water reaching the sea between Trinkitat
and Aghig Seghir. The Ainseba is joined by all the small
streams formed by the drainage from the western slopes of
the Habab mountains, and the Barca by the streams that form
after the rains in the northern part of the Dembela and Baze
7«
GEOGUAPIllCAL NOTES
77
ntrics ; Keren may be called the watershed between the
inscba and Barca rivers.
The Martb river has some of its springs between Adi-
Tchlai and Adi-Saul about the centre of the Hamasen plateau,
and it also drains the soulh-westen) slopes of the Halai group of
nK>untains and the water drainage of the range of mountains
that run from Adi-Caia to Chersobcr above Adigrat. The
chief eastern tnbutar>' of the ^larcb is the Uelcssa, which rist-s
near Gunaguna about halfway between Scnafc and Chersobcr.
This range of mountains is the watershed between the western
and eastern drainage, the latter losing itself in the Danakil
coontry before it reaches the Red Sea. The fresh water
reaches the Red Sea underground, preventing the coral insects
from working and forming the barrier reef that runs along the
whole Red Sea coast ; wherever there is fresh water on shore
there will be found a small or large inlet in the reefs offer-
ing good anchorage. Shetk Barghut, Stiakin, Aghig and
Maasowah, being good examples of these natural harbours
at the mouths of which the coral insect cannot work.
The Mareb river's southern watershed runs from near
Entisdo on the east through tlic Gasgorie pass just to the
north of Adowa, and then north-westerly throuf;h the
prmrince of Scire, Uie mountains of which drain north to the
March and south to the Tacazze river. There is always
confusion caused by the many difTerent names by
the rivers are known, the Mareb for instance as soon
it gets into the low country is known by the name of the
Gash. It runs past Kassala and joins the Atbara about
ninetj- miles from ihe junction of tliat river witli the Nile
at El Daracr.
After getting over the souUiem watershed of the Mareb
the basin of the river Tacazze Ls reached. This river in its
lower waters before it joins the Nile is known by the name
of the Setite, and I believe it was known by the name of tlie
Astaboras to the ancients. The Tacazze (and its many
tributaries) drains all the most fertile and perhaps the most
lovely |»ortions of Abyssinia. Its eastern watershed runs
along tlic razorbacked ridge of mountains followed by the
English expedition to Magdala. They crossed very near
the sources of ihis river which rise further to the cast. The
line of mountains to the south of the Tacazze nearly all
drain south to the Blue Nile, the Tacazze only receiving
tii&ing help from the mountains of the VVollo country — it
ly be called a river coming from a very old Christian
^■hicb
^•Jtg
78 MODERN ABYSSINIA
countiy, in distinction to that of the Blue Nile, wbidi has
its sources in a country mostly inhabited by Moslems. The
Tacazze basin was never really entirely conquered by the
Mahomedans, its inhabitants holding out in the many
natural rortresses which it contains, especially in Qie
Gheralta, Tembien, Semien, Waag and Lasta, with their
easily defended passes. Here are still found the best of
all the Abyssinian people and the women are noted for their
beauty, so different from those of the south of Abyssinia
and many of the eastern Galla tribes, who are common,
coarse and uninteresting.
The western drainage of the Tacazze comes from the
eastern face of the Widkeit mountains, the mountains of
Semien, the highest part of the whole of Abyssinia, with its
snow covered peak of Ras Detchem, and from the range of
mountains that run from a little to the east of Gondar to
Debra Tabor. It would be impossible to give the names
of all the streams that add to its waters during the rains,
and many maps are full of rivers that are either quite dry
or only a chain of pools and puddles in the dry season. The
rivers that always run during the dry season and are im-
passable torrents during the rains, are the Assam, that takes
the drainage from the hills round Adowa ; this comes from
the north and runs into the Werri, that rises to the east on
the north and north-west slopes of the rugged and precipitous
Gheralta mountains with Uieir limestone formation. The
Werri is about sixty yards broad with very precipitous banks,
the water in the dry season being three to four feet deep ; it
rises to thirty or forty feet in depth during the rains, and is
then impassable owing to the strength of its current.
Then follows the Ghiva, which rises in the southern part
of the Gheralta group and drains the country round Macalle;
this river is insignificant during the dry season, and keeps
to its shallow mussel-strewn bed, but in the rains it overflows
its banks and inundates the country for hundreds of yards
on each side and then it cannot be crossed. Between these
two rivers is the lovely country of which the chief town is
Abbi-Addi, situated on a group of red sandstone hills of
fantastic shapes. Abbi-Addi is entirely isolated during the
rains by the Werri, Ghiva and Tacazze rivers, the only
footpath leading to it being down the steep sides of the
Gheralta mountains where laden animals cannot pass.
Then the Samra river is reached, which divides the
province of Tembien and its dependencies from the province
GEOGRAPHJCAL NOTES
79
of Waag. The Samra is 3 fine broad riwr with » shingly
bed, and rises in the mountains betu-een Antalo and Ambn
Alagt ; it is about one hundred ami fifty yards wide and al>out
three feet deep in thedry K-ason ; during the rains it must have
a lat^ volume of water as flood-markii are plainly vi.'iible at
least twenty feet above the summer level, and it then in places
overflows its banks and inundates a good bit of country.
The Tscrarc is the next lai^c river ; it drains nearly
the whole of the Waaf; and Lasta provinces, and is not
unlike the Samra in some respects, but larger and fully two
hundred yardis broad and about the same depth as the fonner.
This river, when it joins its waters with the Samra, forms
the inos.t important tributary- to the Tacazze on the east.
The chief feeder on tlie west is the Menna, about tlie same
volume as the Tscrarc before it is joined by the Samra;
it drains the western basin of the Tacazxe.
All the other rivers are of short length, and are during
the rains very quick risers and fallcrs owing to the heavy ana
dangerous spates ; the water that they bring down during
the dry season being mere trickles, as most of it is used
for irrigating the terrace cultivation.
Tliere are man>- good views to be obtained of the valleys
and their watcr-ihcds from the various high mountains within
the country I am now describing. From the mountains
above the town of Axum tlie course of the Maieb can be
followed on its way to the low countries. From the
mountains to the soutli of Adowa that of the Assam on
its way to join the WcrrL
From Abbi-Addi, the valley of the Taeazzc can be
seen, and the whole panorama of the Semien range of
mountains, and the junctions of the Wcrri and the Ghiva
with the main stream. The junction of the combined Samra
and Tserare rivers can be seen from the high land just south
of Fenaroa. Looking eastwards and northwards just before
Sabandas is reached on the way to Abbi-Addi the mountains
of Axum, Adowa, and those above Adigrat are plainly
visible, embracing Uie whole valley of the Wcrri. From
the soutii slopes of the Gheralta range, the mountains round
Abbi'Addi and the valley of the Ghiva can be traced.
From the old town of Samre the valley of the Samra is
viaibie, also the range of hills from Antalo to the north
of the Amba Ala^i pass.
Above Socota the south of the Amba Alagi pass is
visible, aiKl the range of mountains till near Lake Aitchangi,
mm
80 MODERN ABYSSINIA
but all to the south is one confused mass of peaks of rugged
Waag and Lasta provinces ; the latter country is all drained
by the Tserare and its feeders.
From the bitter cold uplands of southern Lasta a spleadid
view of the sources of the Tacazze is to be obtained, and
the course of the river can be traced for many miles. My
first view of its upper waters was on the high mountains
above Lalibela, from where the river can be traced till it
makes a north-westerly bend. To the south-west and south
can be seen the province of Beghemder and the high table-
lands of Daunt Wadeta and Dalanta ; and to the south-east
the view is shut out by the near mountains of Yejju widi
their steep sides, nearly perpendicular in many places.
On passing down the old English road tiiat led to the
Tacazze river from the Lasta highlands, I turned due east
after crossing the river, and a short morning's march up the
valley past the sources of the Tacazze led me by a very
difficult gradient along a very bi^gy road to the top (»
the dividing ridge, from which a view not only of the
Tacazze valley could be obtained, but that of the leading
Yejju valley as well, the waters from which run to the
Danakil country and lose themselves somewhere near the
Italian possession of Assab Bay, no doubt to take an under-
ground course to the Red Sea.
The whole of the l>asin of the Tacazze river and its
feeders is what might be called broken country, and is
totally different from the conformation of the basins of the
northern and southern rivers that have their sources on the
large upper tablelands of the Hamasen and in the vast downs
of the Wolio and Shoa countries.
The Tacazze basin contains many small tablelands, as
many of the large mountains are flat-topped and the view
of the Semien range from Abbi-Addi makes the upper part
of this province fairly level before it rises to its greatest height
at Ras Detchem, which is often snow-capped. This mountain,
I believe, has never been correctly measured, but it is from
Italian accounts considerably over i6,ooo feet in altitude.
The country round Adowa and Axum in many places is
open land broken up with fairly regular eminences on which
the chief villages are situated. All the open lands are culti-
vated and many of the sides of the summits as welL The
mountains are more or less isolated with the exception of
the south-east of Adowa, where they run in an ever increasing
height till they join with the Gheralta group ; a spur of
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES
81
mountains runs from there to Macailc and Antalo dimmish-
ing in height towards Samrc. The range continues from
Antalo, increasing in altitude until the south of Amba Ala^
when it again falls away towards Aschangi, only to rise again
at the southern part of Lasta to another high group situated
to the west of the road botwccn Dildi and Wandatch, which
is situated just before the dc-sccnt commences into the valley
where the Tacnyrx has its upijer sources. The whole of the
Lasta motintatn« arc unsurveyed ; the highest point is sup-
posed to be Abouna Josqih, which is about 10,000 feet, but
there are many peaks and points that look down upon this
mountain and mti'it be at least 2000 to 3000 feet above it
The whole of the upper part of Waag and Lasta is broken
up by immense canyons ; the sides of diem are covered with
much vegetation and the cultivated tops of the canyons arc
for ever ([ivinji way during the rains, the rich soil being pre-
cipitated into the streams that run along the bottom of them,
and I expect the enormous landslips that lake place in these
provinces have more to do in fertilising the waters of the Nile
than any other of the districts. To give an instance of the
wash and the loss of cultivated land that is going on in
Abyssinia ; in 1884 the market green at the town of Adowa
was situated on the top of the gorge through which runs a
tributary of the Assam river and was a good si7.cd bit of
open ground ; in 1896, or in twelve years, the greater part
of it had fallen in and disappeared, and had gone down the
Assam river to the Wcrri and there on to the Tacazzc or
Atbara to join the Nile which fertilises Eg}-pt. Here is one
little place where in a few years thousands of tons of earth
luve been washed away and disappeared.
I regret [ am not a geologist so I cannot explain the
formation of the sides of these canyons ; some of them are
many hundreds of feet in depth and show diHerent layers
or strata of rock and earth, and nature has formed these
rifts m the earth's surface and laid bare the various elements
of which it is composed. The formation of the rocks round
Adowa and Axum are the same as near Scnafe, the bigger
tiu«scs of rock being more frxKiuent near the former places
owing to the more stupendous convulsion of nature when
this part of the country was made. I believe I am right
*a)nng that the Senafe formation is of schistose rock with
good deal of sandstone, and interspersed with veins of
quartz. This is what the country is like round Adowa, only
se veins of white and other quartz are more frequent, and
82 MODERN ABYSSINIA
the further one proceeds in a south-west direction towards
Abbi'Addi and its neighbourhood the veins increase in
number and thickness till one can see the white line stretch-
ing across valley and mountain. The rock round Axum is
nearly all granite.
Before Abbi-Addi is reached red sandstone seems to
be the general formation, with still plenty of broken white
quartz, in small bits to good sized boulders, strewn thickly
over the country. The boulders have been detached from
their original position by the erosion of the softer rock and
soil by climatic influences, and in some places the veins
stand many feet above the surface and form fair-sized walls
across the country ; these walls are very distinct and a great
feature in the landscape in many parts of the Waag and
Lasta provinces.
The majority of the Gheralta rocks are limestone, and
from this district the cement-plaster and whitewash was
obtained by burning the rocks, for the construction of Ktog
Johannes' palace at Macalle. The high walls round the
gardens and the stones used for building them and the
houses, are more like what are used to the present day on
the Red Sea coast. Antalo is quite close to Macalle, and
the formation of the limestone in the two places must date
from the same epoch. The Antalo limestone is known to
the experts at the British Museum, but no mention is made
of Macalle, where all sorts of fossil shells and corals are to be
found.
The whole of Abyssinia is most likely of volcanic origin,
or elevated by volcanic action perhaps of rather recent
origin, although at the present there are no real active vol-
canoes. To the north-east of Abyssinia the nearest active
mountains are in the Red Sea and on its coast ; the furthest
outlying one is Gebel Teir, which was in eruption in the
early sixties and occasionally gives out a slight smoke or
steam. Gebel Zughur, another island a little to the south-
east of Massowah, is also volcanic. I spent three weeks on
this island and visited the old crater. Nearly opposite to
Gebel Zughur, on the mainland, is Hanfila, which has also
been active in modem times, that is within the memory of
the oldest inhabitant ; at Araphilc, at the bottom of Annestey
Bay, there is another extinct crater. Earthquakes often take
place in the north of Aby.isinia; in 1877 and 1884 they
were very frequent while I was tlicrc. doing some harm to the
stone buildings. The Allot liot .springs just before and
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES
83
ijj the eaithqa*kes are very active, the water spoutti^
out sc^-rral feet in he^ht, and the oatfvcs also know from
them when dUturbances are going to take place.
The b;uiin uf the Tacazze seems to be free from earth-
qualcc disturbances and hot springs but contains several
extinct volcanoes in Waag and Lasta, and it is not titl the
WoHo country aod Godjam are reached that hot springs
arc again fomid.
In Sboa there are several, the one called (•ilwoha at
Adese-Ababa, the headquarters of King Meneiek, bemg well
Icnown. The Haw;ixh valley that separates the highlands of
Abyssinia proper from the Harar highlands is full of them
and extinct volcanoes, lai^c and small. No European has
explored this country properly, and all travcllefs make their
way acTOS» this very hot valley with its unfriendly Galta
inhabitants of the Arussi tribe as speedily as possible There
are several of these same hot springs on the Marar highlanda,
the best known ones being south 'jf the main road from
Harar to Adcsc-.\baba near L«^a Hadecin, and they appear
again on the high road from Gtldessa to Zeilah at Arto,
and also on the Somali road from J^iga to Buihar above
WobaU.
On the west of Abyssinia these springs 1 belie%-e do not
occur, and what can be Icamt of the country is, that the
eastern 'half of .Abyssinia, from the south of the Habab
mountains to about Ad esc. Ababa, shows more recent up>
bcaval than the western half.
On getting out of the basin of the Tacazze, over the very
narrow dividuig ridge which in one place is for over half a
mile not more than a hundred yards broad in any part, with
a very steep drop on each side, a splendid view of the Ycjju
province is obtained, and the direct road from Aschangi,
Dildi to Vejju is seen many hundreds of feet below. This
road follows down one of the immense canyons or rifts so
numerous In Abyssinia, and gradually opens out into a large
valley surrounded by high cUfTs from which numerous water-
taiis descend, many of them <*nth a. sheer drop of great height
On reaching tiie valley these water<falls arc made use of for
trrigation purposcs.
Tbe country here reminds me vcty much of Ceylon, more
especially round Ncwera-Eliza and Rambodie, only Yejju is
incomparably more beautiful and much grander in everyway.
The climate of these two places must be very much the same,
but the bleak downs of the highest plains above Vcjju are
84 MODERN ABYSSINIA
much colder, being swept by hail and sleet, and snow storms
sometimes occur, but the snow melts at once on touching the
ground. Basalt rock has been met with in many places in
the Tacazze basin, but none of the columnar kind which here
makes its 6r5t appearance, hereafter in the Wollo country and
Shoa until nearly Adese-Ababa is reached to be the great
feature of the landscape, recalling memories of the Giaofs
Causeway in Ireland.
Up to this point, in Abyssinia what strikes one most
have been the giant ranges, groups, and isolated mountains
of weird and fantastic shapes, the everlasting ascents and
descents, and the perpetual windings and detours that have
to be made to dodge and get round some nearly perpendicular
bit of flat-topped country. Nature seems to have dumped down
all over the provinces of Tigr^ and Amhara the mountains
she did not require when she manufactured the other parts of
the world, and therefore it takes more miles to journey to get
a short distance further on either north to south, east to west,
than in any other country I have travelled. At one part of
the day it is travelling along the bottom of some gigantic
crack in the earth's surface with a nearly tropical heat, and
at another over some cold wind-swept plateau with a climate
like England in winter. Every sort of vegetation is met with,
the warm low valleys growing tropical and sub-tropical plants,
while on the wind-swept downs and uplands the flowers and
grains will be more of an Alpine nature. Within a few hours'
march the following variety of fruit, grain, and v^etables will
be found, combining those of a tropical, sub-tropical and cold
climate. The banana, grape, orange, lime, pomegranate, peach,
apricot and blackberry — the dhurra, maize, wheat, barley,
bran, peas, tef, and other grains of a cold country — the chili,
pumpkin, bhamea, tomato, potato, and many other sorts of
vegetable.
The inhabitants that populate the northern country are a
finer race, more hospitable, better mannered, and have the
makings of a better class of people than those further south,
and perhaps climate and position has something to do with
their being a superior race, and it is now to be hoped that
more will be known of them than formerly. The country has
been closed for too long, and the people have passed through
so many years of trouble that they have not been able to
develop like other nations ; but as formerly this part of
Abyssinia produced the best kings, warriors and adminis-
trators, history may repeat iUelf, and the regeneration of
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES
85
the couRlty may again have its origin in the basin of the
Tacazze valley.
The next drainAge area to the Tacazze is that which
contains the rivers that flow to the Danakil country and
consists of the Vejju province and part of the Wollo country ;
there is little or nothing known of these rivers after they
leave the highlands. Count Antonclli, i believe, is the only
Italian explorer left alive that knows much about the country
through which the drainage passes, and he only of the more
southern of the two areas. The expeditions sent out by the
Italian Government and by private enterprise from Assab
Bay towards Vejju have been sin^larly unfortunate; the
reason U hard to discover ; it may perhaps be attributed to
the fault of the cxplorcr<i themselves not taking sufficient
precautions, or from the inhabitants themselves, who perhaps
next to the Arussi Galias and the Masai arc the most warlike
and savage tribes north of the equator in the eastern part of
Africa.
1 know of two Italian expeditions that have been massacred
in this part of the country', namely, tho»: of Gullictti and
Bianchi, that of the last namt-d in 1SS4, and I believe (hat of
the fanner in 1881. These expeditions were sent from the
first Italian possession at Assab for political pur^xises, and
also to open up tlie hinterland and try and tap the trade of
Abyssinia.
The word hinterland always puts me in mind of the story
of the missionary and the old lady regarding Mesopotamia ;
she did not know where it was, but thought the name was a
most soothing one. There are many sins covered by tliose
who ought to know better under the cloak of this mystic
word, and I am pleased to say that Africa is being so quickly
opened up that this ** made in Germany " term will soon cease
b> exist, and all countries will know their own boundaries.
The Ycjju basin commences as soon as the dividing ridge
of the Tacazze is passed and extends to the rise to Bom
Mcida, including Lake Halk, which i» surrounded with the
exception of one small gorge to the north by high mountains.
TbcTc is a range of hills between the two drainages in this
province ; the streams from the northern slopes go with the
numerous rivers from Ycjju to make up the Golima river,
which flows towards Assab, and there are several good views
from the mountains to be obtained of its course through the
low flat Danakil country. The waters from the southern
slopes and from Lake Halk drain into the Hawash river.
/
86 MODERN ABYSSINIA
As soon as Boru Meida is reached the scenery changes ;
broad and nearly Bat valleys are come to, the lower paxts of
them being mostly marshy, and the soil of a deep brown or
black. The sides of the valleys slope gently upwards and
are covered with cultivation, with here and there small groups
of juniper and other conifera:, and many large woods of
kousso trees, the flowers of which are used as an antidote for
tape-worm, from which all Abyssinians suffer. At Boru
Meida the water drains in three different directions, and runs
towards the Danakil country to the east, to the Bashilo which
passes Magdala and joins the Abai, one of the branches of the
Blue Nile, and also nearly due south to the Wancheet which
drains into the Adabai, another tributary of the Blue Nile.
The country in the close proximity of Boru Meida, that
is to say within two or three miles of the south end of the
town, is full of springs, and from them come the highest or
most north-eastern sources of the great Blue Nile river.
About three miles to the north of Boru Meida runs the
dividing ridge between the Yejju drainage and that of the
Blue Nile, and from it can be seen the line of mountains
running nearly due north and south that divide the drainage
between the Blue Nile and the Hawash valley. A spur runs
out from near Ancober towards the south-west, that aiso
marks the southern watershed between north and south
Shoa.
The whole country after arriving at Worro Eilou is open
down and upland, with the exception of the great canyons
which receive the waters of this district. The canyons along
which the Wancheet and Mofa Woha rivers run are most
stupendous works of nature, being in some places many
hundreds of feet deep with nearly perpendicular cliffs, with a
breadth of some three or four hundred yards to two or three
miles across; in another chapter I give an account of my
journey down them.
The northern part of Shoa, as far as the landscape is
concerned, is most uninteresting; it carries no forest and
nothing what we should term in England a decent-sized
copse or wood; a bleak, wind-swept, cold, uninviting land
during the winter season, the only relief to the eye being the
young green of the growing grain crops contrasting with the
brown fallows of many shades, and the light yellow or stone
coloured stubbles. In summer, when the crops are being
gathered and fields of grain in all stages of growth, there is
some variety in the colouring of the country, but after lovely
GEOGHAPUICjVL notks
87
Tif^^, Amtiara and Vcjju, Shoa is most disappoEntJng until
the country' round Godaburka is reached on the road from
Adcsc-Alwha to Harar. The mtwt striking thing to the eye
in marching from Worro Eilou to Adese-Ababa is the great
wmnc of trees except in the big canyons of the Wancliect and
Mofa Woha rivers- There is very little timber; the whole
country has been entirely deforested) by fires, which can
be seen by tlie few specimens of big sycamore, fig, kousso
and mimosa trees wliich still exist ; many of them bear traces
of the grass fires which sweep over the downs during every
dr>' season ; these fires die out at the top of the canyons, and
therefore the trees in them arc spared.
The drainage of south-eastern Shoa all goes to the
Hawash river which runs into the Aussa province of the
Danakil country. This country, of which hardly anything is
knt.twn, should lie very fertile considering that it receives such
a (]u;intity of deposit from such a large tract of motintainnus
country, but all the different Danakil tribesmen are shepherds
and live by their flocks, and not cultivators like the Gallas of
the highlands, who keep very few animals of any sort and till
more of their land by hand than by the plough. The Arussi
Galla mountains, which can be seen from the highland above
Godaburka at Balchi and which stretch away from the Harar
group in a wcst-south-wcstcrly direction, mark the dividing
drainage between the Uawasb river and those streams that
Bad their way out through the Somali country into the
Arabian Sea.
Tlie Hawash valley, which is of about 3000 feet lower
level than the mountains which surround it, runs nearly due
north from the high road between Harar and Adese-Ababa,
and runs on until it joins the Danakil plain.'*. The drainage
,from the Harar range of mountains just above Lega Hardeem
tit near Jigjiga all runs at first south and then finds its
,y to the different rivers that run through the Ogaden
mntry and southern Somaliland to the Arabian Sea. The
Havrash valley h not cultlvatnl. and until quite recently was
most unxafc owing to the constant raids made by the Arussi
Gallas from their strongholds in the mountains that form its
aouthem borders. It contains after the rains many small
lakes formed in the volcanic depressions ; a good specimen
of these takes and the largest >.t that of Matahara, which can
be seen from many points along the road that nins through
EC Minjar province, which extends from Godaburka district
Choba. The I-Jawash valley is dotted with at present
and
^Buiti
88 MODERN ABYSSINIA
dormant volcanoes, the oldest group being at Fantalle, but
there are many isolated ones, some quite close to Matahara
lake, the craters being most distinct I have never had the
time to visit tbem, and they would well repay the trouble
taken by any sportsman or traveller if they had the time to
spare when crossing the plain.*
The highest points of the Harar province are to the east
at Konduto peak and to the west at Cunni. Not one of
these mountains have as yet been climbed by Europeans, so
their exact heights are not known. From French sources
the former is put down at 10,000 feet, which I think is over-
estimated. The highest point of the road near Cunni is
just 8000 feet, and to the south-east of the road there are
mountains that must be at least 3000 feet above this alti-
tude. The whole of Harar province is more like those of
Waag and Lasta, but not nearly so broken as the latter.
The vegetation is much the same, and in both remains of very
large forests are to be found. From Worabili, about twenty-
five miles from the west of Harar, a large forest commences,
which used to extend over a large area ; there are now traces till
Buoroma is reached, a distance of just one hundred miles, and
the largest part left is round the Cunni district This forest is
gradually being destroyed by fire, and the very valuable trees,
which consist chiefly of the Natal yellow pine, giant juniper
and other conifers, arc set on fire to make clearings for grow-
ing dhurra and other grains. I believe the only places in
Africa where the Natal yellow pine is found is in Natal in
the south and in the Harar province north, or some 38* of
latitude apart. I do not think that it is met with between
these places, and I have never seen it in any other part of
Abyssinia. In Tigr6 and Amhara the juniper and another
conifer of the same species are common, but not the gigantic
and magnificent yellow pine, and in any other place than
Abyssinia this tree would be carefully preserved for its utility
and great commercial value.
The Harar province has no big black and bare uplands
like Shoa, and consists of mountains fairly well covered with
trees divided by enormous valleys of irregular shape. The
land between Harar and near Gildessa to the north-east may
be termed most abrupt, there being a difference in altitude
* Near Fantalle [here U » tioy little volcano which I went to tee. It u not
more than fortj feet in heighL It it moit peifectly Ehaped, with a Eittle enter on
its Bummit, and allogcther a ilrange little pimple on the earth's face, which had
not time to grow into a Luger cxcKicence.
GEOGR/VPHICAJ. NOTES
89
of considerably over ^ocx) feet in about twenty miles — over
2XXX> of which ukcii place in about nine miles, and a little
over looo in three miles. From Gitdcssa there is a general
decline over open plains until the foot hills are reached, and
after they have been passed a maritime plain of about fifty
miles in width bas to be crossed before the sea beach 1$
arrived at.
From Harar town to the east the mountainous country
extends to Fiambaro (in the local language tliis means tJie
nose of the mountain that points to the low land), when a
Idi^c, long, oval valley, fairly open, is atrived at. Thi-s i.s the
last of tlie dish-shaped crater valleys in the country, and
a low range of mountains divides it from the vast grass
prairies of upper Somaliland. From Fiambaro a good view
of tlic somhcro slopes of the Ilarar system of mountains is
obtained ; they gradually slope to ridges of other mountains,
always decreasing tn height towards the Ogaden country,
ud the horizon seems to be fairly level but broken occasionally
by smalt hills.
Following the eastern the upper or Jigjiga prairies extend
towards Hargcsa and Arrtb^eo, where the first hills with
volcanic peaks are arrived at ; after pas.sing Uiese a lower
prairie land is come to which continues until tlie vicinity
of Dekaco, where there is again broken ground, then another
lower plain at Ildcmel is reached which extends to the foot
hills which arc situated immediately behind Bcrberah, where
the maritime plain is reached. The foot hills are all volcanic
and produce a most wonderful variety of volcanic discharge;
after the rains, which are very irregular, and some seasons
entirely fail, a good deal of grass springs up and large flocks
then it^tabit the country. Among tlic:« foot hills grows the
curious stunted and gnarled tree that produces the gum myrrh
of commerce so valued by the ancients, and pictures of this tree
were found in the ruins of llabylon and in the ancient tombs
of Ee\-pL
Abyssinia is not at all an uneasy country to travel in on
account of the very conspicuous landmarks and the enormous
extent of the landscape that is visible from the various high
mountains. The atmosphere in the highlands is wonderfully
clear and enormous distances can be seen. From Halai in
tbc Durth on a clear day the Scinien mountains arc visible.
Above Wandach the Scniicn can also be seen, and from
Wandacii the mountains to the north of Ifat, and from there
the mountains round Cunni in the Harar province arc visible.
90 MODERN ABYSSINIA
and it might be possible perhaps to hetit^aph trom one
point to the other. Fart of Halai rai^e ia ^so visible from
Massowah on a clear day.
The climate in the highlands of Abyssinia is superb, and
it is only in the valleys that it is unhealthy and malarial
fever is to be caught. There is a great discussion going on
at present about the mosquito, and it seems curious to me^
having lived in so many unhealthy parts of the East, that the
attention of doctors has not been drawn to this insect before^
I have invariably found that where there is stagnant water
contaminated by drainage and decomposing vegetable or
animal matter, that the sting of the mosquito that breeds in
this water is very venomous, and causes feverish symptoms.
This fact is so well known to the Abyssinians that tiiey never
build their houses in the valleys where mosquitos abound,
but always place their dwelling^ on the summits of the
nearest hills. When they work in the cultivated parts of
these valleys they always surround their fields with very
strong hedges so that they need not remain at night to watch
their crops, and even in the harvest time, at the dryest season
of the year, they do not leave their houses in the morning
until the mists in the valley clear away, and they always
return to them before sunset when the mosquito commences
to come out
Very little fever was known at Suakin before the Egyptian
steamers commenced running there frequently, and there
were no mosquitos in the place, and curtains to the beds
were never used, although on the other side of the Red Sea at
Jeddah sleep was impossible without them, and Jeddah is
known also as a very feverish place. The mosquito was,
there can be no doubt, imported from Suez in the fresh
water brought down from there in the water tanks of the
Egyptian steamers for the use of the Egyptian officials.
Now at Suakin the mosquito in the town is quite common
and so is fever, white outside the town fever and the insect
are unknown.
By looking at the map of Abyssinia, the belts of tropical
valley will be found to be very few and they are found more
in the centre, along part of the Tacazze and Blue Nile rivers
with a few of their tributaries. Sheltered and confined valleys,
however, in all parts of Abyssinia are not nearly so healthy
as the more open ones of higher altitude. A traveller need
never spend more than a night or two in unhealthy parts ;
it is, however, different with the sportsman ; to enjoy the
GEOGRAPHlCAl, NOTES
9t
best of sport be must follow the game that tnhabtts the damp
jungle, and during the rainy season he woald be hicky to
escape a bout of fever.
With regard to the botany of Abyssinia the greater pait
of the country has been thoroughly woclced out, especially by
the late Professor Schimpcr — his son, who travelled wHh me
a good deal in the countr>', howo'cr, informs me that his
father did hardly any work in the eastern half of the country,
and tlien only in the dry season : so there is still a great deal
to be learnt about the plants that are to be found in the
unexplored part during the wet season and immediateiy
after it. Geographical details of Abyssinia arc sadly wanted,
such as amount of rainfall over a scries of years at different
stations. The Italians can supply details of the north in the
Hamascn. but there can be no doubt that central and south-
western Abyssinia have a much greater rainfall than the
north, and the extremes of temperature are also greater in
these parts.
There is very little known about the geology of the
country, and as it ha.s been so broken up and shows such
grand disturbances, its formation should be very varied and
contain many surprises, and minerals no doubt should be
very plentiful in some parts. Gold has been found in many
places since the earliest times, but the many centuries of
anarchy and confusion which the country has undergone
has prevented any thorough examination of the different
districts in modem times, ami since the time of the Axumtte
dynasty up till 1S95 Abyssinia never had a coinage of her
own, so there was no necessity to seek for the more precious
metals.
Coal has been reported in several places, but I have seen
' ing but black shale. I cannot say whether it exists in
ic west of the country as reported round Lake Tsana, as
my journeys have always been in the eastern half of Abyssinia,
and I am certain tliat no outcrop exists in this part, unless
the slopes towards the Danakil country, which I should
link is highly improbable owing to the volcanic fonnation.
There is a large and very highly interesting licld open
'for scientific research, and many years must lapse before
Abyssinia is thoroughly known, and it is not likely that it
will be opened up while the power is all in the hands of one
person. Italy will no doubt take her share in the develop-
ment that is bound to come sooner or later, and her territories
will be explored long before the rest of the country. Unfore-
92 MODERN ABYSSINIA
seen circumstances may arise which will allow of an opening
up of Abyssinia more speedily than the present prc^osticates,
but I hardly think that they are likely unless some radical
change takes place within the next few years ; in the mean-
time, however, the artist, archaeologist, botanist, etc., can do
good work in learning more about the country and bring^ing
its now unknown details before the public. From the lower
classes they will receive a hearty welcome, and from a great
many of the well-to-do people who wish to see their country
opened up, and an end put to the constant disputes that
arise among the upper classes.
CHAPTER V
ITALIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1896
IT is useless my {^ving any description of Masiiowah, as it
is now such a well-known town, f have seen it change
from a plaoe containing a few fairly good Arab houses built of
white corat, .surrounded by a collection of wrctclied mat and
grafts huLs, and a much worse place than Suakin was in 1SS4,
into a decent town with good buildings and a harbour that
is the best between Port Said and Bombay. It has now
good public buildinRs, custom house, jetties, and everything
comptctc, with a railroad that is gradually being built to-
wards the interior and to a iiighland country with a European
climate. Should the Italian colony of Erithrea be blessed
with a period of peace, its future and that of the ytori of
Massowah i.s assured. At Massowah all sorts of tilings
can be procured in the respectable Kuropean stores, and a
traveller or sportsman need take little out with him from
borne as he will find he can purchase all necessaries and
oeariy all European luxuries there cheaper than he can
import them.
About six weeks after the battle of Adowa in 1896, I
arrived at Massowah on my way to Abyssinia, and the Italian
army had already proceeded up country to the highlands on its
march to the relief of Adigrat where a small Italian garrison
«ras still holding ouL A stay of a few days at the seaport
enabled Colonel Stade, the late English military attachi! at
Rome, who I was travelling with, and myself to procure our
transport, and wc started to join General Baldisscra's head-
quarters at Adi-Caia, which is situated on a broken up small
plateau at the top of the Hadas Pass, the first open ground
reached in Aby.ssinia proper. On the small higher plateau
ridge to tlie ea.st is situated the ancient ruined town of
Kohtfita, of which I give some particulars in my chapter on
Axum.
Wc started from Harkecko, one of the fortified suburbs
situated about an hour and a halfs march from Massowah,
94
MODERN ABYSSINIA
on tile 23rci April 1896, and after an uninterrupted march
for tlie b3gg<^;c animals of twelve and a half hours, arrived
at Chilttlic at 230 a.m. The Italians do not make use of
the Knglish road from Zullah to Senafe that runs up the
Komali torrent, but have opened a shorter and better road
up the Hadas river which runs from the mountains to the
north of Adi-Caia. The direction of the Hadas river, as
soon as the foot hills arc reached, is parallel to the Komaii
torrent, followed by the English expedition. After the
winter rains this low countT>', which may be called the
Wooah plain, is a favourite grazing eountry for the flocks of
tlie wandering Arabs in the neighbourhood of Massowafa;
formerly very good small game shooting was attainable, be- j
sides an occasional chance at Ufger game, such as the lion, ■
leopard, pig, Kudoo antl Beisa or Oryx antelope. I had ™
wandered all over tliis country in former years and knew it
thoroughly.
After Chilalic, to which there Is a good road, the track
begins to get worse, crossing and rccrossing the bed of the
iitream the whole way to the Mai-Chcu. The distance
between the foot mountains varies greatly ; sometimes the
road is barely eighty yards across with steep or precipitous
sides and flood marks thirty and forty feci above the river
bed. In other places it widens out into miniature valleya
from five to six hundred yards across, which offer in place*
fair grazing. The valleys arc all thickly covered with mimou
bush and trees, some of them being of great size, and pro- J
ducing plenty of shrubs and trees on which the transport ■
camels can feed. The road during the rains is moat dangerous "
owing to sudden spates which may have their origin from a
heavy thunder storm miles away in the interior. I have
often seen the effects of these sudden floods, which sweep
cvcr>'thing in front of them, and carry away sometimes the
flocks belonging to the natives. The bodies of the camels,
cows, sheep and goat-S cither being washed down into Che
low countries where the flood may expend itself, or carried
out to sea if the storm has tieen a very heavy one The dull
roar of the flood may be heard some distance ofl' and escape 1
from it is then ver}- easy, but should the flood come at nightj
time and the shepherd or travelling merchant be cncani[)cc'
on a comparatively low tevet above the bed of the stream;
then accidents may happen. Mai-Cheo In several places '
running water, a small stream trickling over the stony ant
sandy bed, joining jiooU of water two or three feet dc
ITALIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1896 95
ie pools arc full of small fish about the size of a minnow,
e largest being about the size of a gudgeon, and from the
presence of these fish the water in the tstrcam must be a
permanency. The name of these fish 1 do not know, in
shape they are more like the English chub than any other.
I was thoroughly tired out on arriving at Mai-Cheo, which
is eight and a half hours' ride from Chtlalic, having been in
the saddle twenty hours out of the last thirty-one, with only
three hours' sleep, and not having ridden for nearly three
years 1 was decidedly stiff and lost leather from which 1 did
recover for over two months. The heat up tliis road is
Gc, and the shade temperatures during tlic last two days
96° and 94'. The mountains shut out alt vestige of
xe,and the radiated heat that came off the rocks was very
■ing. The march from Mai-Chco to the top of the pass
t leads on to Adi-Caia plateau is always up hill, and the
last rise to the top of the pass is very steep. Here the Italian
engineers were at work improving the road by blasting the
outjutting rocks, the explosions we had heard many miles
away, the noi.*e of them echoing and re-echoing down the
narrow gorge through which the track lay. On rising on
Id the Adi-Caia pLiteau the ciim.itc and !u:enery changes and
a well ■cultivated country is reached, with an altitude of over
6500 feet above the sea levcL The change is very great
(torn the stifling heat of the confined chasm to the pure wind-
swept upLiniU. In one, the lightest summer clothes were
only ju>1 bearable, and on the plateau the moment the sun
■ank below the horizon a thick ulster was necessary, the ther-
muincler falling to the fifties and at daylight and a little
before sunrise to the forties.
I was never more pleased than when the narrow road was
left behh]d with its constant stream of transport animals
going to and from the front. Camels in hundreds were
constantly iwisscd, and the mortality among them had been
very great, and their dead bodies were never out of sight
' ~<ing the whole ro.vi from Hareeku. An attempt had been
adc to bum them, but it was not altogether a success, and
dreadful smell was most unpleasant. The mules often
d to pass tlie bodies and swerved and shied in narrow
of the roads. Luckily there were no precipices to go
and the worst one bad to put up with was a scratching
tlic thorn trees or a bruise from being run against a
J rode the same mule from Massowah to /^eilah. and
\gh the must have seen thousands of them she never
96 MODERN ABYSSINIA
liked passii^ a dead camel, a dead mule or a horse she did
not mind.
The Italian transport was alb^ether a failure, and
they have much to learn From the English in the way of
feeding their troops at a distance from their base. Had it
not been for the Aden firm of Messrs Bevenfeld & Co. they
would never have been able to go on with their campaign.
This firm had a contract to carry up stores to Adi-Caia and
Asmara at 25 liras a hundredweight, and they emplc^vd
several thousand camels on the service and were never behind-
hand in their work. There was an excuse certainly for the
Italians ; as after their defeat at Adowa they lost nearly the
whole of their r^ular transport which they had organised,
but still this would not altogether account for the total
absence of regimental transport that existed, and handing
the chief source of supply for their army to civilian contractois,
who might fail them in time of need, was an unwise proceed-
ing. This, fortunately, the contractors never did, and had
plenty of stores in the depdts at Adi-Caia and Asmara, at
the end of the campaign.
What struck me most up to this point was the happy-
go-lucky way in which the Italians worked. At the base
at Massowah, although it was in time of war, the Govern-
ment offices were closed from eleven till three, and again at
six o'clock. Their working hours were from six to eleven
A.M., and from three to six P.M., and during these hours
alone was business conducted. Clearing the transport and
store ships was left to the agent of the steamers, and there
were seven men-of-war in the harbour and not a fatigue
party of sailors were employed to clear the stores, or a
steam launch belonging to them to tow the barges to the
jetties at the railway head ; everything was left to civilian
enterprise. The railway conveyed the goods to Sahaati,
seventeen miles inland, for the Asmara base; and those for
Adi-Cara that went by the Hadas road, which we came up,
might have been taken out by the light line that runs to
Harkeeko, but the transport animals had to make a three
hours' march there and back, and load up at Massowah.
The steamer that we arrived by brought the heavy Italian
mail with all the letters for the soldiers at the front ; the
post office took three days to sort and deliver the mail
The tel^raph was nearly as bad, and constant breakdowns
were occurring. Being accustomed to see things managed so
differently at Suakin during the campaigns at that plac^ I
ITALIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1896
97
wondered what the organisation of the lighting force must
be Ulce, aniJ from the 25th Apn'l to the lOIh June I had
ample opportunities of stud>'tng it and foiming an opinion,
ifld 1 now do not wonder at the Adowa reverse.
The Italian troops tJiat were being assembled for the
relief of Ad^rat consisted of two divisions of 7000 rifles
each, and a native force of about 5000 rifles; these being
composed of Abyssinians and the inhabitants of the colony
of Erithrea under Italian officers, and were then on their
march from Kassala, where they had lately defeated the
Dervishes. This would make General Baldissera's Bghting
force about 19.OCX} men, out of which he would have to
leave a garrison at Adi-Caia, Scnafc and Dongolo. The
Hamasen plateau was guarded, irrespective of this force, by
the garrisons of Adi'Quala on the top of the pass leading
dovo to the Mareb river, the fortifications of Adi-Ugri, and
the strong fortress of Fort Baldissera commanding the town
of Asmara. The advance part of the army had already
encamped at Adi-Caui before our arrival there, and what
struck mc as being very curious, when we rode up to
the wells and tanks which supply this place, that we came
across two generals with a numerous staif inspecting the
works that were bcinp made. Thc>' must have seen that
Colonel Sladc was 3 military man by his uniform, and yet
no notice was taken of him, and no aide-de-camp was sent
to firtd out what he wanted and where he had come from.
Tbcy evidently did not expect him, and perliaps had no idea
that wc had made such a rapid march from Massowah, we
having got over the sixty-eight mites from HarWeeko in fifty-
ooc hours with our baggage animals (marching at night was
impossible owing to tlie state of the road) ; no great mardi
on a good road, but considering the roughness of the track
Crom five miles the other side of Chilalic to the top of the
Adi-Caia pass, we had made a record for the country.
At Adi-Caia we were given a place to camp just outside the
diarcfa and churchyard, and I shall never forget the trouble
I bad to pitch the tent with the servants that we had, who
bad never seen the sort of tent before. During our march
op country wc slept at the Italian encampments, and we had
no time to pitch a tent. It was blowing a gale of wind and
qoHc cold, we having left a tropical heat and come into what
was more like a late autumn day in England. Colonel
Sbde had left with the Italian military doctor who had
been our passenger out from Naples, and had come up with
G
98 MODERN ABYSSINIA
us from the base to call on General Baldissera. Darkness
had set in, and pitching the tent, which would insist on
coming down owing to the strong wind and the tent p^s
giving in the stony ground, was no easy matter. I wanted
to keep down below near the water on good green turf and
in a sheltered place, but my opinion was not listened to^
and during our whole stay at Adi-Caia, our camp was most
uncomfortable. I went to bed tired out and supperlesa;
except for a biscuit and some sardines. No firewood to
light a fire with to make a cup of tea, and the servants were
all shivering owing to the cold.
The position at Adi-Caia was a strong one, ^tuated on
a plateau ridge and surrounded on three sides by lower open
ground some 400 feet below. The open ground consisted of
arable land and water meadows, which gave good grazing^
for the transport animals. The fields were dotted here and
there with the corpses of mules that had died of either
glanders or the African horse-sickness and lay unbuiied,
tainting the air and spreading the disease to animals that
grazed in their vicinity. In 5ie morning I rode round the
place and found the only defences that had been con-
structed were one smalt redoubt, and the top of the plateau
strengthened in front by a breastwork of stones. To tlie
rear was another breastwork crowning the height of a
neighbouring ridge, over which the road to the Hadas gorge
ran. This had been thrown up after the defeat near Adowa
and was now abandoned. The position, although naturally
a strong one towards the south, east and west, could have
easily been attacked from the rear, and the Abyssinians
would soon have found out its weak spot and got round iL
In all their battles against their invaders they have invari-
ably cut their lines of communications, and the Hadas-Adi-
Caia road would be a perfect death trap had the inhabitants
of the country risen in rebellion, as it was commanded by
scrub and rock-covered mountains on each side, which were
impossible for a European to swarm up, but offered no gnat
obstacle to a bare-footed Abyssinian mountaineer. There
was hardly a point along the road where a European force
could properly deploy and put into line a sufficient number
of rifles to check an attacking force.
General Baldissera rode past our camp in the morning
unaccompanied by anyone and spoke to me. I had to
answer many questions and give an account of myself, and
I believe the result was satisfactory, as he was most civil snd
ITAUAN CAMPAIGN IN 1896
99
)
asked me to call upon him. I wu greatly taken with the
General from the veT>- first, and I could see he knew a great
deal about the country, and what was required to be done,
and what a few ofTVccrs he had that knew the country. The
stay we made at AdUCaia lasted five days, during which
time I had ample opportunities to talk to the natives ; among
them I found some old friends who had scon mc before
at Massowah, Asmara, Adt-Tchlai and Adowa. Their in-
formation varied greatly, but a good many of them were
of the same way of thinking, which gave me a basis to
work upon to build up the truth. They were all unanimous
in sa>-ing there would be no fighting, and that all the
Abyssinian armies had been disbanded, except the few
regulars always kept under arms, and gone to their homes
to plough the ground and to sow seed for the coming rains.
I remcml>cf telling an officer in the Italian Intelligence
Department this — he did not know my name and that I
knew the country and the habits of the Abyssinians, and I
bad some splendid news given me, which he no doubt
thought that I should telegraph home. Unfortunately, from
the very commencement General Baldissera told rac that
while the campaign was going on he did not wish mc to
telegraph home, but I had his full permission to see what
was going on and as it turned out there was no news worth
the cost of a telegram to England. There were rumours
about this and that enough to make a sttrtling heading
of a newspaper's handbill, but no truth in them, and as I
determined to find out exactly what had been done and
what the future was likely to be, it was no use forming any
opinion until both sides of the question had been thoroughly
studied, and this could not be done on only one side of the
fRunticr.
Before the Italians made their advance on Adigrat I had
many conversations with officers who had taken part in the
battle before Adowa ; but no detailed narrative could be
strung together of the fight, and at Uie best they were only
personal experiences of an individual in one small fractional
part of the whole great battlefield, which although interesting
was of DO great vaiuv in explaining what had really takea
place. 'It
Comparisons are generally odious, and I am afraid when
campariog the Italian army that I saw going to the relief of
Adigrat to our troops when campaiKninfT in the Soudan, the
was too painful and the less said about it the better.
100 MODERN ABYSSINIA
I will give one quotation from my diary of the and Hay,
when I was watching the advance of thie army across the
good road that leads along the ridge of the Caacasse pass to
Amba Arab-Terica above Scnafe. " Met half way throu^
the pass another battalion of native troops from Kassala, and
saw many of the black soldiers and native troops who knew
me. This battalion was looking just as smart as the one that
arrived yesterday under Colonel Stephant who commands
them. These natives have marched with their r^moital
transport from Kassala in twelve days, a distance of 43a
kilometres, over a bad road. This works out at abcmt
twenty>two miles, three furlongs per day, nothing very
extraordinary in a flat country, but considering the roads
and mountain passes and that they brought their transport
through with them, it may be put down as a good march.
They seemed in excellent condition and looted smart and
fit for anything.
" The appearance of the native soldiers compares most
favourably with the poor Italian soldiers ; the former are as
smart as the latter are slack, and it is a most painful ^ht
for a civilian who has been accustomed to see English troops
campaigning, to see these poor fellows stru^^Iii^ aloi^ over*
laden, dirty and ragged, without what we in Ei^land should
call any discipline or the amour proprt of a soldier. The
officers keep themselves neat and tidy, but then again thw
have little with them, and I do not know what Englim
officers would do under the circumstances that the Italian
officers are placed in. The Italian soldier has to carry his
greatcoat, blanket, cooking pots, water bottle, a fourth part
of a tent, and 186 rounds of ammunition ; besides any other
little things he may have, and often a couple or three days'
rations as well. Clothes besides what he has on, he has
none. These people are conscripts and not volunteers, and
taken away from their country to fight what they coiuider
an unjust war against a warlike enemy whom uey stand
in great awe of.
" A regiment I saw come in yesterday from the Asmara
base is a type of the regiments in the two divisions that
compose the army for the relief of Adigrat Helmet, any-
thing and of any shape ; many common sola-tope hats from
India, with or without the badge of the regiment, as the case
may be; others with common canvas shaped helmets of
flimsy construction ; others with brown karki-coloured wide-
awakes ; some who have lost their helmets, or have not been
ITALIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1896 101
served out with them, have a Moon'sh tarbush with a blue
tassel at the end of a long string. Karki coats and trousers,
the Tornner too short and small for appearance sake, and
the latter too full for comfort ; boots of brown leather, which
look well when new, but which unfortunately do not lasL
The great coat, blanket, and part of tent are carried in rolU
over each shoulder, and the nflc slung over all, the bayonet
6apping at the side. Some of the men had gaiters, others
tucked their trousers into their socks; some do not, some
have one leg of the trousers tucked in only. I waited to
see the whole of this regiment pass and examined it
critically, as I thought what would some of my military
friends at home say, and what would they think of English
officers who commanded such a regiment. The soldiers
arc a fine, sturdy, strong, healthy-looking lot. and would do
credit to any country. From what little I have seen of the
French, the Italians arc individually, in spite of their dirty
clothes and ra^cd api^carance, a much finer set of men,
and if properXy fed and properly looked after, I believe
would go anywhere, as under the present very hard circum-
stances in which they arc carrying on their campaign, they
seem cheery and in fairly good spirits. They seem lacking
in steadiness, and in my poor opinion they have not the
look of men that could be relied on at a pinch, and save
themselves the same as our troops did when they were
broken at the battle of Tamaai. I may sum up .- if they were
broken they would become altogether unmanageable, and
their officers would have little or no control over them ;
tbts, I suppose, must always be the case with the European
short service system, when the oRtcers know little or nothing
about their men."
The road that the Italians made thdr advance by from
Senafe to Adigrat was nearly the same as that used by
the English. Senafe has not changed since that time, but
round Efcssi or Goose plain more people have settled down ;
bit their villages are not a quarter full, they having lost
heavily during the cholera and famine. Senafe, it may be
remembered, was the first great English depot in the high'
laftds, and the remains of the old camping ground is still
vtiible, and the natives to the present time make use of
tbc roikd that the EnglLsh built.
The Italians soon cleared out tlie welLs from which the
English water supply was drawn, and the walls wanted
UttK doing to them, and it saved their engineering depart*
102 MODERN ABYSSINIA
ment a good deal of heavy labour. It is seldom found in
history Uiat one European nation makes use of another's
work in a foreign country like in this instance. The Engli^
cemetery still exists, and Colonel Dunn's grave and many
of the others are still in a good state of repair. The wall
round the cemetery has fallen, and the enclosure is now
full of small mimosa trees, dog rose, and jessamine bushes,
and with a very little trouble could be put in proper order.
A wild rose tree covers the stone and inscription marking
the place of Colonel Dunn's body, and the inscription is
stilt perfect. This officer lost his life by accidentally footing
himself with bis gun.
On the day after my arrival General Baldissera sent for
me and asked me to go back to Adi-Caia, and remain there
until he arrived at Adigrat He feared there was going to
be some heavy fighting, and as he wished most Ukely to
make use of my services after the fighting, and if I was
recognised by the Abyssinian spies as being present with
the Italians it might militate my position and what be
would require me for, he thought it better that I should go
back. He informed me that no Italian newspaper corres-
pondent would be allowed to send tel^rams, and the Italian
War Office at Rome would give the European press full
particulars of everything that they ought to know, and that
no press messf^es were to be allowed till after General
Baratieri's trial was over at Asmara. I mention these
particulars as a warning what may be looked for should
the Italians again engage in hostilities with Abyssinia.
Fair criticism on any campaign can do no country any
harm, but sensational newspaper paragraphs and information
may. In the case in point, the enemy could learn nothing
from the press as they were not in possession of telegraphs,
but as soon as the Abysstnians are in possession of their
telegraph lines, they will be able to obtain particulars of
what their enemy is doing through French sources.
The Abyssinian spy department is excellently managed
and arranged, and the information is obtained by people
friendly to them on the other side of their frontier. Women
are greatly made use of to obtain news, and they have the
chance of getting employment in the officers' households, and
some of them follow the troops in their marches in the field.
The arrival or departure of every regiment at the base is known,
and its destination is soon found out, and the number of guns
that accompany the army. This news is passed on from one
ITALIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1896
103
c
I
another, and the frontier being so sparsely guarded, getting
across it is easy enough. It is also a very hard thing to get
hold of the movements of the Abyssiniaos and their numbers;
they change their camps so rapidly and march at such a pace
and receive reinforcements so quickly, that correct informa-
tion of their numbers one day may be entirely wrong the
next, and arrangements made by Europeans to attack a
position tJiat was held in force may be found to be
entirely useless, as the enemy may have tn one night taken
Dp another forty miles away. The Italians only made use
of their native troops as scouts ; but to watch an enemy like
the Abyssinian is no easy job, as he employs the same means
of scouting and can always concentrate a tarter number of
men at any given point than his enemy, and while the
attention of the scouts is taken up and they are falling back
on their European supports, the bulk of the enemy may have
changed their position and have to be again refound, and the
vbole work has to be begun over again-
An Abysstniai) general need never %ht unless he likes,
and can always chuo«c his own battle-ground. There arc
only several towns and ]x>sitions in Abyssinia that arc worth
their while to defend, and no doubt the key of the north is
Axum, with its old sacred and historical traditions. It always
Bccmed to me to be a wrong policy on behalf of the Italians
not making it their headquarters when they once crossed the
Marcb. It is quite as easy of defence as Adowa, and the
approach is equally as good. Any enemy holding Axum and
treating the priests fairly, would gain great prestige all
through Abyssinia.
The only shot-s fired during the relief of Adigrat were by
the scouts and outposts, which were magnified by the Italians
into successful engagements, when the only Abyssinians north
of Adigrat were a few AgamtJ men belonging to Ras Sebat
and Hagos Tafcri, who bad been before on the side of the
Italians. The Italians, on their advance to Adigrat, de-
stroyed many villages round Dongolo and in the Entiscio
district in revenge for the cruel way in which the inhabitants
treated the fugitives from the battle of Adowa. There was
only one village, just to the west of the road at Dongolo,
that was spared, as the chief of it had given asylum to the
fugitives and treated them kindly.
I was very much amused with the inhabitants of the
Hatnasen and of the Scnafe district ; they followed the anny
each flank, knowing very well that the inhabitants of the
1
104
MODERN AliYSSINIA
villages that had Ultrcated the fuRitUts would retire before
the Italian force, and that all the property which ihey could
not take away with them would be hidden and not left in
the houses to be loottxJ and burnt. The property is generally
buried and securely hidden gainst Europeans or even natives
from the low countries, but Abyssinian^ know the likely
place to look for iL In this insLince they found large
auantities of grain, provisions and houseliold clTects, which
ley carried off back to their country. On my march to
Chcrsobcr, near Adigrat I met hundreds of men, women
and children, with their donkeys and mules all heavily laden.
The Agamd people arc not at all popular, and both thcir
Mahomcdan brethren and the Christians looted them.
I had to wait a fortniglit at Adi-Caia before General
Baldissera gave me permission to go to the front again, and
I amused myself by going on small excursions in the neigh-
bourhood ; to the ruined town of Kolieita, which is little
known and altc^cther unexplored, a mere account having
been given of the above ground and ruins. We had a good
monkey hunt one morning, many of the garrison and coolies
belonging to tlic commissariat joining in. The dc^-faced
monkey is most numerous in this country, and docs a lot of
damage when the crops arc ripe ; they used to come down to
the commissariat camp to pick up grain or any food that wai
to be got. By the men making a detour of about a mile the
monkeys could be cut off from the big hill to which they
always made when disturbed. The chase was then over the
open ground and small bare hills, before they could reach
thick bush where they were .safe. It was very amusing seeing
a band of over a hundred monkeys of all 5i;:cs scampettng
away ; the old males instead of keeping behind to encourage
the others and to protect their families were the first to escape;
then the most active of the females that had no babies to
, encumber them, and then the mothers with their children.
I saw one mother when hard pressed deliberately throw away
her young one and make off. The beautiful talcs that travellers
spin about monkeys defending their young and the bravery
of the old lion-maned males is a myth, like many other
travellers' yams. I have found monkeys only too glad to
escape when they have come across men, but they are bold
enough with little children and an unprotected woman. The
re«ult of the hunt was three young ones, which were taken
back to camp to make pets of The Italian "Tommy Atkins"
seemt to be just as fond ol' animals as his English brother.
4
4
4
4
ITAIIAX CAMPAIGN IN 1896 105
^^u
'"A several oT the re^menu bad monkeys and dogs which
•ttt through the campaign, and one of the native regiments
PCttcased a monkc)' that had b«cn in nearly all the cngagc-
bots i^ainst the Dervishes and Ab)'S3inian5 and had wen
hrice to Kassala. He used to ride on one of the mules that
curtcd the spare ammunition and was perfectly at home and
I heard from the natives that visited me at Adl-Cala
tcrriblcaccountsof the famine and cholera that had devastated
tlie country. The locusts destroyed nearly the whole of the
crops, then the cattle disease broke out and killed over three-
fourttis of the homed cattle, and then to complete the misery,
the winter and spring rains failed. The population b^an to
starve, and cholera and a malignant sort of typhus fever broke
out, which claimed many victims, whole families perishing.
It wa-s not till later on that I saw how truly awful the
epidemic had been, whole villages being abandoned. From
a distance a hamlet on the mountain side might be seen, and
looked as if it was perfect, only no people could be seen
movii^ about, and no smoke issuing from the cottages. On
approaching, the roofs of the huts would be found in bad
repair, and on entering it, not a human being was to be seen.
The doors of the buildings nearly uff tlieir hinges, the thorn
bushes that shut the enclosures round the huts were to one
side, and grass and weeds growing everywhere; a more
luxurious patch of vegetation or rank grass, about six feet
io length by two tn breadth, would mark the spot where some
poor victim lay unburied. On looking into the houses they
would be found .as if the occupants had ju-st vacated them,
but on a closer examination, when the c>'c got accustomed
to the semi-darkness inside after the glare of the bright
lOahine in the open, several skeletons would be found, either
the raised end of the hut or on a native bedstead. In one
1 1 found Ave remains ; one was that of a woman, as I could
tell by the remains of her dress, alongside of her on the same
bed lay two small skeletons, one a little laigcr than the other,
both of the little skulls resting on the arm bones of what
periiaps were their mother's. Behind the door was another
Ixidy, evidently of a boy, the leg bones stretched out and
those of the upper part of the body in a small heap. The
owner of them had evidently died with his back resting
sgaiml the wall ; ihe last body was curled up near the fire>
place akingside which were several empty cooking vessels,
cxanioatioo of these iUnndooed viU^es was enough
106 MODERN ABYSSINIA
for me, and from this specimen I could well ace what this
fertile country had suffered from the series of years of war,
famine and pestilence.
I was, of course, anxious to find out how the Italians
behaved to the starving population, and if they followed the
same policy as at Suakin, when the Egyptian Government
only acted under pressure, and gave relief after thousands
of people had already died. The famine in Aby^nia and
Suakin ran conjointly, and had the opportunity been seized
by the Government for relieving the starving population, It
would have made all those whose lives were saved friendly
for ever. This was the effect on those that received food
and medical attendance at Suakin, and it would have been
the same in Abyssinia. What relief was given by the
Italians was done by the ofUcers solely out of their own
pockets, and they could ill afford it, not being rich or well
paid by their Government. The individual Italian officer u
much liked by the inhabitants, and all the troubles tfai^
have been caused have arisen from the Italian policy con-
ducted from Rome, and not from any fault of those tibat
served in the country.
There was one incident that took place near Massowah in
the early history of the colony that must be looked back
upon with shame and regret ; happily this can never occur
again. It is useless my putting it on paper, as the case is
closed, and the actions of a few bad men cannot be laid at
the door of the many gentlemanly and highly intelligent
officers that now serve their country so honourably and
faithfully in the colony of Erithrea.
On the i6th May I again left for the front, remaining at
Senafe for the night, and next day marched to Dongolo,
passing Barachit, a fine open bit of country, with plenty
of water and good grazing ground. Soon after leaving
Barachit a range of mountains is reached, and the smaU
district of Guna-guna is come to. Guna-guna is a lovely
little valley surrounded by high mountains. The end of
it is blocked by an abrupt and steep pass. It is famed
for the church dedicated to Saint Romano, near which is a
famous spring of water which forms one of the sources of
the Mai-Muna river. The valley takes its name from the
guna-guna tree, which is there first met in Abyssinia, and
afterwards becomes one of the commonest ornamental
plants around the houses of the higher classes. This tree
is one of the banana tribe, but produces no edible fniit,
ITALIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1896 107
^^ biack seeds, and is the same as is seen planted out
1 the London parks and in public gardens in the south
I <^ England.
On reaching tlie top of the pass, a stony, barren-looking
ftUcAU is reached, and in front, to the south-west, a good
lirvr of the Aduwa mountiins is obtained about thirty miles
ilisUnt, tlie Entiscio district being about half-way. To
&e south is the high ridge that divides the Dongoto de-
presuon and valley from the Mai-marat plain, and the
Chersobcr ridge rises abruptly from it, along which the
road runs to AdigraL W'e covered the distance from
Scnafe to Dongolo in eight hours, and I was very glad to
j(ct over the march as the day had been very hot, no breath
of wind, and there was no vestige of shade on the road.
The smell of dead tnuisport animals, and myriads of flics
spoilt what would have been a charming march through
lovely and most interesting scenery. The heat of the sun
was like what is sometimes felt in England before rain,
and before we arrived at our destination a heavy storm was
raging over the southern portion of the Hamasen plateau
and tile valley of the Mareb We got nothing <^ it but a
heavy dust storm and puffs of wind, at first like a sirocco,
and then quite cool, making an overcoat necessary.
The native troops were nearly all stationed at Dongolo
under Colonel Stcphani, and they had been employed in
punishing the villages in the neighbourhood for the part
they took in the cruelties against the Italian refugees from
the battle of Adowa. The villages were all in ruins, and the
oountr>- that had once carried a lai^e, busy and prosperous
population was now depopuUted, and it wilt talce several
}-ears before it r^ains its former prosperity. I met with a
hearty reception from Colonel Stcphani, who kindly put me
up at his own quarters and gave me a very good dinner.
The native troops thoroughly understand how to procure
nippUcs, and their ofnccrs were living remarkably well com-
pared to what the officers of the regular anny were. Chickens,
eggs, fresh milk, vegetables, and fresh mutton in abundance
besides the ordmary camp fare, and a good cook withal
to turn out a good dinner. Many of the officers of the
native regiments are old campaigners and, like Englishmen,
thoroi^hly understand how to make themselves comfortable,
whereas it is perfectly sad to see how the majority of the
regular officers fare. Everything, however, is so different
to what Eoglishmen are accustomed to ; I know that they
■lb
108
MODERN ABYSSINIA
can live on next to nothing when they are put to it,
when it is po&sible to be comfortable they arc ; here in
campaign no attempts are made, and the golden maxim of
" Sparc no expense to live as well as you can " is ignored
There have been more lives lost in campaigning in Auica b)-
semi -starvation and bad cooking and going to bed tircd-out
and hungry, thereby laying the foundations for disease, than
from the bullets, spears and swords of the enemy.
We sat long into the night talking about their last fights
against the Dervishes, and the last campaign against the
Abyssinians ; and of course as some of the officers had taken
part in the light and General Haratiert's trial had not taken
place they could not .■my what they really thought, but frona
what I could gather of the opinion of those that had been
present, that the moment they left their position at HntlscEo
there was little or no chance of gaining a battle against the
force to which they were opposed had it been 70,000 instead
of jaovooo.
1 remained behind next morning to see a brigade drill
and sham-fight of the native troops. They certainly are a
wonderfully active and tine set of troops ; they arc not up
to the standard of drill which we are accustomed to in India,
but it is seldom that our Indian troops would be asked to
manccuvre over such ground, even on the Indian frontier, as
I saw these men work over. An attack on a ruined vill^e
and a steep ridge was very well carried out ; every bit of
cover was utilised, and for a long time not a man could be
seen ; the scrub was about four feet high, which was ample to
hide them, and not a head or back or a rifle were visible
until within forty yards, when the last rush was made on the
crest. These troops seem to know their business thoroughly,
and once the officers have told them what they are required
to do they will perform it and do not require their oflken
to lead, thereby saving them greatly for more important
work. There is not that constant botliering the men with
words of command, and the »ilent way these bureTooted
men get over the ground is wonderful. Their officers have
the utmost confidence in them, and it gives them therefore
raore time to watch the enemy and observe what he \a
doJnK. and how to meet or alter the attack.
The native troops have had to do all the fightinff
round Kassala and at Agordat, and thoroughly defeated
the Dervishes in bush fighting and broken ground, which
is more difficult than in the open, where the majority o(
4
ITALIAN CAMPAIGN IN ISftfl
109
ttr last fights have taken place. The ground on which
Uk battles were fought was more like what is round
TuBui and Torrick than that round the Atbara and
Ooduraman.
An uninterrupted march of five hours brought me to
DiCTSober, passing m route the open grass land of MaJ-
num, one of the English camping places, where the second
divi^n of the Italian army wa.'; juHt entering on their return
fmnthc front near Adigrat. Tlic men looked all the worse
fetlheir three weeks' campaign since they left Adi-Caia. I
got on to a p*th above the road and watched them, and I
CDnld only liken the formation of the regiments to a comet
or 1 blot of ink on paper that has been wiped away with the
|^|CT; a certain attempt at regular marching at the head
of the regiment, and an ever-decreasing one towards the
tail. They were singing and seemed cheerful, glad enough
>• doubt to be on their way back to their homes. There
•tfc a great many sick, mostly with fever and dysentery
brought on by the hardships of the campaign, bad food and
■arse water. The water supply was ample for a much larger
force, but there seemed to be no care taken to keep the streams
dewi, and in .^me places de-id animals were allowed to rot
n them, or to be in close proximity to the pure water springs,
irtiich would have given an unfailing supply of good quality.
The water round Baradiit was simply loathsome from the
number of dead oxen.
The supplies of beef for the troops would have been
ample if proper care bad been taken of tlie animals. The
oxen were driven up with the army, and nearly all had
been imported from Eg>'pt, Syria, or the Red Sea ports ;
they left very likely in fair condition from the coast, but
every cJay they got thinner and more out of condition the
liirtfaer they marched. There was no grass for tliem except
la the water meadows, which are few and far between. Then
the rinderpest broke out among them and they died like
nc% aod before the march was half over the animals became
danseraas food and the flesh from them was nearly black.
On my arrival at Chersober I found Colonel Slade ill
with dysentery-, and that the Adigrat garrison and the
oriBoncrs taken at Adowa by Ras Mangcsha, Ras Aloula,
kaa Sebat, and Hagos Tafcri were to come in that after-
noon. General Baldisscra asked me to go out with him
to sec them come in, and he said how sorry he was that
bad bad to detain me in the rear, and spoke of the
110 MODERN ABYSSINIA
dangers that were to be feared on the advance, at which
I smiled, and so did he in return. I found out afterwards
that there was never any intention of the Abyssinians to
oppose the advance, and that the before-mentioned leaden
who gave up their prisoners had not 6000 men under aroi^
nearly all their men having returned to their homes.
The Italian garrison of Adigrat and the prisoners had
all been furnished with new clothes tliat had been sent on
to them, and instead of the majority of them lookii^ very
thin and ill they seemed to be in good condition, and in
their new clothes compared most favourably with the re-
lieving force in their travel-stained and n^^ed uaifonns.
There were, however, many invalids suffering from malarial
fever, typhus, dysentery, and other complaints, and a few
cases of small-pox among the native troops. I brought out
some cigarettes, oranges and lemons,' and they were soon
gone. One of the Italian officers who had been a prisoner
talked English, and he said the cigarette I had given him
was the first he had smoked for three months. I find neariy
all the Italian officers understand French, and many of them
speak it very well. The prisoners had on the whole been
treated kindly, much better than they had expected, bat
some had been struck and beaten by the Abyssinian soldien,
which was not to be wondered at, but I heard of no right
down cruelty being perpetrated.
On my return I sat under the giant sycamore fig-tree
(which must be centuries old) at the top of the Chersober
pass, and looked at the scene of desolation which was before
me, everywhere burnt villages and destruction. The large
village at the bottom of the pass with its once well-built
houses and its large church were blackened ruins. What a
tale this old tree could tell if it could only speak, and what
curious sights it must have seen. The Portuguese must
have made use of this road. Mahomed Grayn with his
victorious Moslem army. Many Abyssinian armies during
the centuries of bloodshed that have existed when fights for
the throne were so numerous must have gone up or down
the pass. The English expedition made use of it, as the
remains of the English road are still visible within a few
yards of this tree, and many an Englishman must have rested
under its shade. Now the Italians are here and will soon
retire. Who will be the next invader that it will look upM)
and shelter?
The road aloi^ the high ridge from Hat-marat to Chersober
ITALIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1896 111
s made by the English, and from it in places most wonder-
ful glimpses arc to be obtained of the surrounding country,
which is very lovely in spite of its being all dried up and
little vegetation to be seen. In one hour's march views arc
obtained of the valleys of three rivers with three different
drainages. The Rrst view is of the most southern tributaries
of the Mareb that rtms past Kassala, then those of the Mai-
Muna, Ouffet and Ragulai, which lose themselves in the
burning sands of the northern Danakil country, to continue
in an underground bed to the Red Sea ; and then the upper
waters of tlie Ghiva river, that runs into the T&cazxe, and
then on to the Nile,which empties itself into the Mediterranean.
At one place the distance between the springs of the Ghiva
and Ragutai cannot be more than a mile apart, and where
they empty themselves in the sea is about lOOO miles distant.
Owing to the crowded state of the road on our return to
Oongolo from Chersobcr, wc took an hour and a half longer
ig the distance than in coming up. I had camp arranged
id tea going long before the headquarters had their tents
hed, although their luggage was ahead of ours. We had
a nice afternoon tea to which General Baldtssera came, and
many of hi.s staff officers. .Another big storm over the Mareb
valley and the Hamascn was going on, and luckily for the
Italian soldiers wc have escaped all the rain that has been
fallinc to our west ; it is cold enough as it is at night time,
and if wc had it damp, disease of all sorts would be terrible,
and the roads would be turned into bogs, and marching would
be very difficult
There were a few shots fired at the outposts during the
night, evidently by the villagers who had had their houses
bumL They did not Interest me as I had seen on the march
several natives, old friends of mine from Adowa, who told
me that there were now no soldiers nearer than Axum, as it
was impossible to live near Adowa, owing to the frightful
stench from the battlefield, and hardly any of the population
of the town remained, just one or two servants to look
after the properly. The march from Dongolo to Senafe was
the most trying one I ever made, and 1 never wisli again to
undergo such an experience. The whole first division had to
get down the narrow Guna-guna pass, which was a most tedious
proceeding, artillery and infantry all mixed up in confusion
with the small transport train and the invalids. A hundred
rifle shots among the rocks and thick bush above would
done terrible execution and made the confusion worse.
112
MODERN ABYSSINIA
and they could have retired by either Sank without ever getting
into the open.
I amused myself as customary, when going up and down
this road, by looking at the positions that might easily have
been held and checks given to an advancing army, which
would have suffered heavily, and inflicted little loss on the
defenders. Taking from Adi-CaJa to Adigrat, the Cascasse
pass leading to Senafc might easily have been defended, and
could only have been got through by firing volleys into the
bush as the defenders' positions were secure behind rocks and
bush, and the nearly smokeless powder that the Abyssinians
now have in their cartridges leaves little indication of the
position of the shooter. The country from Senafc to Bara-
chit is more open, with the exception of a commanding ridge
covered with boulders and scrub that dominates the road to
the east, just before the open land at Barachit is reached.
The heights round the Guna-guna valley and pa-is are ad-
mirably suited for defence, and here on tlte march up some
few of the Agamtf villagers fired on the Italians, Front
Mai-marat ri<^c to the Chersobcr pass every inch of the
road might have been disputed, and the crest of the ridge
lined, ft is impossible to outflank the Cascassc, Guna-guna
and Chersober positions as the bush i» so thick, and there
are no commanding positions from where they might be
shelled. The sides of the ridges towards the road are fairly
open ; their creeks are covered with vegetation and rocla
and their reverse sides arc thickly wooded, offering no
hindrance to irregular troops, but impossible for regular
troops to get throuRh quickly-
The whole of the roads I have seen in Abyssinia are moat
difiicult for a civilised invader to get over, and should he
once meet with a reverse and have to retire, escape out of the
country would be very difficult. Mititar>- men who took part
in the Abyssinian campaign will know very well what I mean,^
and the history of the rcir-giiard that covered the return offl
the troops from M.'^dala should not be forgotten. It is, ~
however, very different now to what it was then, as formerly
few Abyssinians possessed firearms, and what they had
were antiquated weapons, while at present nearly every
countryman has a breech-loading rifle with a fairly lone
range. 1 managed af^er getting dotvn the Guna-guna pass,
by making a detour and a cut across country, to strike the
road that runs into the village of Efessi on Goose plain, and
got away from the dust, stench of dead transport anir
■^ -*
ITALIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1896 113
nd the swarms of flics which were a terrible nuisance. I
aald sec the long line of dust which marked the route of
the Rnt division, and was K:Iad I was out of it. 1 pitied the
foldiers and the poor invalids ; many of the sick had to be
carried, and it was painful to sec their attempts at keeping
off Ac flies that buzzed around their litters and settled on
tlMtT faces in swarms- A thin, dirty hand holding a few
laves languidly waving backwards and forwards in the
stlcBipt to keep them o^, and then subsiding at the unequal
conbat
I managed to get camp pitched and tea ready lon^ before
tbt bead-quarter staff arrived, and General Batdisscra was
ray pleased to come and have some, and chaffed me about
*^ English custom of having tea at five o'clock. I have
»lta>-s tried when I have been campaigning to arrange to
Stt tea in the afternoon at about that hour, by sending
fonraid a boy with the necessaries and a big kettle, to
^t a fire and boil some water, also to choose some nice
&^ tree under which we could halt, and a five minutes'
rest is perhaps all that is required to eat a few sweet biscuits
and to get through a cup of tea. I slial) never forget the
nrprise and the satisfaction of an Engiisli general on find-
tr^ a cup of tea ready waiting him, in what he tliought
waa an enemy's country, and which I knew was perfectly
safe.
I called at the village of Efessi, on a native fn'cnd of
mine, and got fresh milk, crrs, chickens and two fat shecp^
His live stock were all shut up and hidden in an inner room in
his house, as he was frightened of being made to sell it at
the low price which the Italians gave for everything. They
went on an entirely wrong principle in the country fay fixing
prices too low. I ne%'cr paid an extortionate price for any-
tUngt but gave the countT}-men what I considered a fair rate
at which they were willing to sell. When I first arrived at
Adi-Caia nothing could be got in the market, owing to the
Itjit of prices for articles being fixed at too low a price, and
the Italian soldiers taking things from the peasantry on the
read Eo market. As soon as the two divisions had gone to
the front I spoke to Count Radicati, who commanded there,
r^anling the total absence of fresh supplies, when there
were plenty of things to be obtained in the country, and he
made the market free. The consequence was, we soon had
aU sorts uf things brought in, and lived very well. Chickens,
eggs, milk, fresh meat of good quality and a few vegetables
H
114 MODERN ABYSSINIA
proved a great boon to the sick that were in hospital, and
the natives seeing that they were not molested any further,
soon gained confidence.
The only Italians that seemed to me to use any tact
were the officers who had been some time in the country, and
they are all a most intelligent and gentlemanly set, thoroi^hly
knowing how to treat me natives, who are really more like
grown-up children than anything else. A kind word goes a
long way with them, and an interest in their welfare and a
short chatr even with the poorest, soon makes them friendly
and witling to help, or to procure anything that it is possible
to be got in their country. There is no place that I have
been to that the old saying, " Familiarity breeds contempt," is
more applicable than in Abyssinia, and next to that losing
one's temper. Many of the Abyssinians are only too pleased
to see a man get in a rage and lose his temper, as it is a
source of amusement to them ; and an Italian officer at Adi-
Caia was always losing his, and I used to watch groups of
natives laughing at him. I believe they used to come dally
on purpose to see him, the same as the children do at home
when a Punch and Judy Show is going on, and I think thw
enjoyed it just as much. He was a good-sized, red-faced,
fat man, and very conceited.
We had to wait five days at Senafe, to allow the troops
of the second division to get down to the coast; they
were kept as much as possible up in the mountains, as
the heat was terrific in the low country, and only made
the march down the good road from Asmara to Sahaati in
the cool of the day. They entrained at Sahaati and went
straight on board the transports at Massowah, which took
them back to Italy. The first division then had to do the
same. I remained one night at Adi-Caia, and dined with
Colonel Radicati and his staff, and I was sorry to say
goodbye to him. He had been most kind to me dutii^
my long sojourn with him, and he had done everything he
could to make me comfortable, giving me the Court house
to live in, which I soon made a fairly good dwelling house
out of I had a very good cook with me, and could
always give a better dinner than what the officers could
get, and I always had guests at breakfast and dinner,
and the Italian officers used to do the best they could in
return.
Natives from all the district round, many of them «4io
knew me before, used to pay me visits, and no da]7 was too
ITALIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1896 115
ig.* I Icamt much valuable Information rcj^ardin^ the
Italian native policy, and what they had done in the country.
Taking the majority of the opinions of the natives, they
seemed fairly contented with the Italian rule, but they nearly
all complained on minor points and of the general insecurity,
but all tliese were of easy remedy witli a slight change of
eilicy. The people of this district had been looted by Ras
angesha's army on hui advance and retreat from Coatic in
1895, and were reduced to the last stages of poverty.
The hospital at Adi-Caia was crowded with patients
mostly suflering from enteric fever and dysentery, brought
00 by the hardships of the campaign, the bad food and the
total want of sanitary arrangements. The cemetery, which
only held two or three graves when I left for Adigrat, was
DOW covered with many crosses made of rough bits of wood.
Tbe highest mortality in one day was twenty-eight and the
average about ten to twelve. Sanitary arrangements at all
the camps were simply nil, and no latrines were made ; the
watering-places were allowed to get very dirty, and there
were DO slaughtering- places ; the bullocks, sheep and goats
were killed anywhere, very often on foul ground, and the
offal and hides were left unburicd, and in twenty-four hours
the camps became quite offensive,
I left Adi-Oia for Asmara on the afternoon of the 27th,
aod arrived there on the 29th, after twenty-one hours march-
ing- By some mistake the Italian soldier in charge of our
baggage took the road to Halai, while we marched via Mai-
Sarou and Decca Maharie, and I did not see it again till I
at Asmara. Fortunately the weather was line, as, if
been wet and no change of clothes to be had, fever
have been the rcsulL The Italians have constructed
newer and better road than what is marked on the maps,
and it may prove hereafter very useful to the countrymen to
brinK their produce to market at Asmara, as it opens up
goM cultivated ground and also a thickly bushed country,
iriiicfa is capable of being cleared and carrying a large
population, as there arc plenty of streams and springs
that come from the Halai mountains, that can be used for
irrigation purposes. At present it is uninhabited and swarms
wHh small game. I saw marks of leopard, pig, dcfasa or
* Tic luBn effieeti lued to ooim •nd dmM me about tnf nitiic friends, bRI
I ibe aOM Outf wme vety glul to got idfonnatioti and be ibte lo obUio ftcih
JKm, ud IM oM that Ihc eosnlrj wis petf«clly ufi, aiui Ibey mod to tx v<tj
I togoHb pKnict, iiotctd oCkickiiig iboi be«l* a-bout ounp •ith nothing to do.
116 MODERN ABYSSINIA
water-buck and Kudoo antelope, and sighted several duiker
and oribL On leaving Adi-Caia I had as a guide a small
boy of about ten years old, and he took me over a short cut
over one of the spurs of the Halai range, and just when it
got dark I thought he had lost the road ; but we soon came
mto it again, and we then halted for an hour until the mooa
rose, and then continued our journey and got into camp at
Mai'Sarou at ten o'clock at night, after seven hours good
marching.
Mat-Sarou is a very pretty little place with an inex-
haustible supply of good water, which runs to the Mareb;
consequently there is good grass in the water-meadows and
plenty of cultivation. From an hour out from Adi-Caia to
Mai-Sarou, that is for about six hours march, the country is
uninhabited. I asked my small guide if he was not fr^tuied
of robbers, as we were both unarmed, and he replied, no, as
there were only a few in the country and th^ were his rela-
tions, and they would not touch anyone that was with him.
They could only get from me my mule, clothes^ a few dollars^
watch, pocket-book and compass, and it would not have beeo
worth their trouble to have touched me. I have had plenty
of experience of these border-robbers, and they are not half-
bad people, more like our Robin Hoods of andoit days.
They are generally people who have had to clear out for some
petty crime or debt which they are not rich enough to settle
and, therefore, take to the highways, and levy blackmail on
people coming from a distance, sparing all those that live in
the neighbourhood.
What strikes one mostly on the road from Mai-Sanm
to past Decca Maharie, which is on the Kiagour end of the
Gura plateau, are the splendid specimens of the sycamore
6g tree under which 500 to 600 men can easily find shade.
The Abyssinians say they are never struck by lightning, and
certainly in all my wanderings I have never come aciosi
one that shewed any traces of having been hit, but have
seen smaller trees of other species situated alongside of
them shattered by lightning. These trees at Mai-Sarou
are very fine specimens, and on arriving at them, althoi^[fa
it was past ten o'clock at night, I was hailed by an Italian
engineer officer. Captain Erculc, a friend of mine, who was
in charge of the water supply and the new road, and he
immediately did all he could for a hungry and clotheless
traveller, and after a good supper I went to bed thoroughly
tired out The next morning, after a very nice breakfast
ITALIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1896 117
-with plenty of coffee and good fresh milk, wc said good-
bye to our hospitable host and started for Dccca M^arie
a good eight hours' march. Captain EtcuIc had t>ecn in
the colony a long time, and bad done a lot of useful work
In tlic Public Works Department, He was one of the few
Italian officers who read and wrote Amharic, the written
language of the country, and was not only a very clever
officer but a most gentlemanly and intelligent companion.
Two hours out of our camping place we passed Sabanigad,
the road being up hill and through a good deal of cultivation.
Some rain had fallen here, and the trees and flowers were
just getting green and coming into bloom, a great contrast
to the dry and parched up country we had hitherto been
travelling in ; my companions began altering their idea of
the country-, and that the dr>- ficldft and trees without leaves
were giccn occasionally. There is nothing green to be seen
in an arable country in England in the winter, and also
nothing in Abyssinia in the dry season, except the ever-
green trees that do not lose their leaves.
Sabanigad is also famous for its enonnous sycamore fig-
trees, and soon after passing them the Mai-Kumol, a small
[perennial stream, is crossed, and then in another hour's
I march the Mai-Melahass, another stream of the same
I description, is come to ; between these two waters is the
Ivillagc of Adida. Crossing the Mai-Melahass, Haha church
'b r^ched, and after a sliort up-hill march and then a
descent the fertile Gura plateau is come to, and three
hoars inarch across this takes one into Decca Mahane,
|wberc there was a commissariat store situated under some
more big sycamore fig-trees.
The brittle field at Gura where the Abyssinians defeated
^tbe Egyptians is on the southern part of the plateau, where
pass leads up from the March valley, and is about two
[hours march south of Decca Mahane. A stony ridge of
l«Dcks of fantastic shapes lines the western border of the
IGura plateau, and then chains of broken hills increasing in
jlkeigbt divides the Gura plateau from that of the grand
[vpper plateau of the Hamasen. Another heart>- welcome
the Italian officers stationed at Uecca Mi^rie, and
kindness is too great for words. They did us very
well and 1 must say I shall always remember my night
there I slept in one of the stores, on a bed of hay with only
ae blanket. It was bitter cold and the rats held high
cwnival, racing, playing, and squeaking the whole night
118 MODERN ABYSSINIA
long, and ninniag over me and another Italian officer iriio
was also sleeping in the store. There is nothing realty
objectionable in an Abyssinian rat, as he is perfectly clean
and not like a European rat, being more like the jerisille
of the Soudan and Arabia, but still they are not pleasant
running over one's face at night time. The road from Decca
Maharie for some way is up hill, and through what used to
be once a thickly populated and tjierefore cultivated country,
and then the uninteresting wind-swept Hamasen plateau is
reached, with its flat-topp^ and mole-hill shaped devatitms,
that belonging to the late General Kirkham near Asmara,
where he had his farm, being a most conspicuous landmark
for miles round.
I remember on one occasion in the middle of the seventies
coming up to the Asmara plateau from Massowab. We had
followed a small native path as soon as we had struck the
foot hills, and the only small open space we had seen was
Ghinda. The road was very steep and bad, alternately up and
down the mountain and tlie last ascent the steepest of aU.
One of my Arab servants who had never been in a mountain-
ous country before and bad lived all his life in the hot plains
of Arabia and the Soudan remarked, on reachii^ the plateau,
"Allah be praised, we are now on the top of the world." The
Hamasen plateau strikes one as being very flat ailer the con-
trast from the mountainous country which has to be gone
through before arriving at its summit It has no elevation
more than 500 feet above the plain which is very fertile, and
by the number of the ruined villages it must have carried an
enormous population before the Egyptians commenced their
attempts at annexation. Its general altitude is from 6500 to
7500 feet above the sea level, but many points are much
' higher ; as for example at Asmara, the highest point being at
least 800 feet higher than the lowest depression.
The Italians have greatly improved the vicinity of Asmara
In many ways and have built some very good houses. Fort
Baldissera, constructed on a hill to the south-west of the
town, is a very large place, perfectly impregnable, and oiuld
only fall by starvation. The military stores are fine well-
made buildings, and the hospital barracks and other public
buildings do the Italians great credit. There is also a very
good military Club House, and it only wants a few years <^
peace and the lavish riches of the land, agricultural and others
developed, to make this settlement a very important plac^ as
it will alwas^s be the permanent seat of Government, on
ITALIAN OVMPAIGN IN 1896 119
account of its healthy climate. It Is in telegraphic communi-
cation with Massowali, and there is a daily post to ttie sea-
port. What strikes one is the absence of trees and shade,
but this is t>cing remedied, and no doubt when the railway is
finished coal will greatly take the place of wood as fuel. Like
in the Soudan wood is getting scarcer every year round tlie
majority of Abyssinian towns, owing to the constant felling
of timber and never planting trees, also to the ^adual de-
foFCstisation of the country caused by fires lighted by the
coHntr>-mcn to clear the weeds from their fields, which
spread to the jungle and then very often miles of country
are burnt.
I was very glad to settle down at Asmara for a short
spelL The campaign was over, and there was no chance of
any more fighting, and the Italian prisoners were all In
Southern Aby&.Mnia. with the exception of a few scattered
about in Tigii, who Ras Mangesha and the Choum of
Waag bad promised to release. Colonel Slade was return-
ing to England as he was too ill to proceed to Kassata owing
to the intense heat, and besides Uicrc was absolutely nothing
going on there, the der\'ishcs having retired from its vicinity
after their last defeats at the hands of Colonel Stephani and
his forces.
There was nothing to be learnt from the advance to
Adigrat and the way the Italians conducted their expedition.
They arc far behind the English in militaiy knowledge
r^arding campaigning in Africa; and their commissariat,
transport, and medical departments arc of the crudest and
most primitive description. Their native troops are decidedly
gocxl and have fought well on every occasion that they have
been under lire, never giving the dervishes a chance in any
engagement, although they have been more numerous.
Their discipline is not as high as that of the black battalions
in the Egyptian service, nor arc they as smart to look at on
parade, but they can be kept well in hand by their officers,
and do not get as excited as the Soudanese blacks, who arc
too eager and Ihdr officers have a difficulty occasionally in
restraining them.
The Italian native troops arc nearly all mountaineers and
arc therefore more adapted to fighting in Abyssinia than the
plain men and they arc individually much better shots, many
oT them being game hunters from the time they were old
enoueh to fire off a rifle. They make most efficient .scouts
Bod my have very keen eyewgbt, and they perform the work
120 MODERN ABYSSINIA
that the English would do with cavalry. There are many of
these men that will get over this broken and bushy country
just as fast as a horseman, and the marches that bodies of
these men have made in different parts of the colony have
been noted for their rapidity. The march from Kassala to
Senafe which I mentioned before being t^ no means one cf
tlieir quickest
I do not believe that the English regular soldiers would
have been capable of performing the march to Adigrat and
back, if they had had to undertake it under the same
commissariat and other circumstances as the Italians. Firstly,
they would not be expected to do it ; and secondly, no En^lidi
general would have dared to advance or ask his troops to
undertake such a campa^ with such meagre provisions.
Officers and men were deserving of the greatest praise for
everything, and did the best they possibly could with the
poor means at their command. I found the officers an intelli-
gent, gentlemanly and hard working set, and the soldiers
willii^, docile and patient under l£eir terrible sufferii^
The campaign served the purpose for which it was intended
and was therefore a success ; had the advance of the relieving
anny been disputed, it might have had a very different histuy.
The Italians doubtless have learnt several lessons during
their last two campaigns : namely, that their artillery is n<^
powerful enough, and that they want guns of longer range to
search out the positions that their enemy can hold and to better
cover their attack or retreat ; that machine and quick-iiring
guns are also absolutely necessary to accompany their fighu
ing line, as better results are obtained from them when tiiar
target is a massed force of the enemy, or when their foe
is attacking on open ground. In any future campaign that
may be undertaken they must always look forward to being
greatly outnumbered, and therefore to put them on a better
footing quantities of machine guns will be necessary. No
advance should be made unless proper depots, which should
be strongly fortified, are made on the frontier, and that every
pass on the road should be properly guarded by commanding
redoubts, and if possible the roads through the passes im-
proved so that blocks are impossible and the disorder, which
formerly was so prevalent, done away with.
There was a want of ammunition at the front on the
Adowa campaign, and no army could hold its own against
the Abyssinian hordes unless it had sufficient cartridges to
keep them from closing, as in hand to hand fighting no Euro-
ITALIAN CAMPAIGN TN 1896
121
^ean is a match for these mountaineers when oiitnumbered to
Ihe extent of three or four to one. The Abyssinian has
stacked fortified positions but has never succeeded in taking
dteni when they have been properly defended by men with
I^ty of ammunitioi), so acting on the defensive is always
a better game to play witli them than attacking. If any
attadt becomes necessary it should only be done aucr a heavy
*nd demoralising shell fire has been given, as the Abj-ssinians
indGallas stand greatly in awe of properly sen'cd cannon.
The Italian guns arc a great improvement on what have hither-
to been used, but still they might have a longer range, and they
raw take into consideration that the French will always
»«((i'>' King Menclck with the very latest inventions, as they
oDv that the guns can only be used against either Italy or
Eifland; so they should watch carefully what artillery is
■■ported, and try and bring a superior weapon into the field
l^ next time tiostilities commence.
I
CHAPTER VI.
FROM ASMARA TO ADI-QUALA.
'T'HERE was nothing of interest at Asmara during Gem
-■- Baratieri's trial, and everyone knew that the Courl
Inquiry that took place would end in a very unsatisfact
manner, and it was useless thinking that the details of
reason why the forward march to Adowa from Entiado '
made, would be given to the public If the truth had b
wanted to be known, the trial ought to have taken plao
Italy, and not in Erithrea. It is not a very hard uiii^
plead a case that was patent to all, and no one knew it be
than the man who was held primarily responsible for
disaster. There was hardly a vestige of defence, and
only course to adopt was to acknowledge a defeat attribu
to no fault of the material, but to being greatly outnumbc
by an enemy armed perhaps just as well as the Ital
troops, and with longer range artillery. When a forci
outnumbered to the extent of five to one by a qui(
moving and more mobile foe that can throw an overwfae
ing number of soldiers (the majority of them being invis
owing to the nature of the ground, until about the last I
hundred yards),on to any point quicker than that point
be reinforced, there can only be one result, and the whole of
members of the Court of Inquiry were of the same opin
and they all knew that if they had been in the same pout
as General Baratieri, they would perhaps have done the sa
namely, have gone forward, and relied on those at home i
ordered the advance to pull them through. A great i
might be written on this subject, but it would serve
purpose, and only cause ill feeling ; but in justice to Gen
Arimondi who fought so bravely, he was leading troops i
he had never campaigned with before, he having al«
commanded the native troops who also fought under a
advantage, by being led by a general who was not use<
them. It was, in my opinion, no use blaming Gen
Albertone for the disaster who was not there to defend I
FROM ASMARA TO ADI-QUALA 123
id( and this was about ail that was done, and he was
Ifaned for not making a more stubborn resistance; this I
bond out afterwards waa impossible, and even the Abyssinian
eoenls acknowledge that further resistance by him and the
nnivors that were with him was useless, and it would only
bve entailed the massacre of the living and the wounded.
The generals all left for Italy after the Court of Inquiry
mover, and Asmara bcf^an to quiet down and occupy itself
vilh coauncrdal pursuits that had been put a stop to by the
CMpaign. I was busy getting ready my transport for my
jmrney into Abyssinia to find out facts about what had
tiken place, and full details as to the state of the country,
tnt I was greatly delayed by being refused pennission to go
imb the frontier until General Baldisscra heard further
(bout what was going on in Abyssinia, and the arrival of
King Menelek at Adese Ababa. Nothing could be kinder
Aaa the way I was treated by all the Italian officers and
ofictaU, and I shall always remember their courtesy to me,
vfaicb I shall never be able to repay.
Very few of my old Asmara friends were alive, but their
diildren bad grown into men, and I received many attentions
InNn them, and a good deal of information. I think that
bom all the evidence I could collect, that the natives were
coatentcd with Italian rule. When I first knew the town it
was only a collection of badly constructed houses, situated
around the old church, and the cultivated fields came up to
the village; now good ro-ads had been made in every dircc-
tioa, culverts over the waterways, and good bridges over the
streams. Fort Baldisscra occupied the hill that commands
the plateau on the south and west, and was a very strong
(bctress ; this was the furthest inhabited point, and the
cantp underneath the fortress was capable of holding many
thousands of men. It was perfectly impregnable against
any native army, and the large number of fire-proof store-
houses for atl sorts of provisions and munitions of war, would
allow it to bold out for a long time, and no Abyssinian army
cootd reduce it as the>' would starve long before the garrison.
Very good European barracks had been built, and the
Italian soldier was just as well off in Asmara as he was in
tbe home barracks In Italy, and much better off as a rule
than he was in his own private home. The lines for the
native troops were not nearly so good, and not to be com-
pared to what I liave been accustomed to sec in the far Hast
in the Soudan, and here I tliink the Italians have not paid
124
MODERN ABYSSINIA
enough attention to tlictr native troops, as housing them
properly makes them respect their personal appearance, and
a perfectly spicic and span native soldier docs not come out
or a very dirty house, and as a rule slovenly in person means
slovenly in work.
The General's house and those belonging to the higher
oflfictals would do credit to any colony, and the club is also
well built. There is not a decent hotel in the place, and the
shops are poor to look at, but contain verj' good provisions.
Trees were beginning to be planted, but a good selection had
not been made, and the importation of Italian conifers was a
failure ; it would have been better to have chosen the best of
the native trees, such as the Wanza giant juniper, and the more
hardy of the ficus which grow rapidly. I saw a great differ-
ence in the scenery round Asmam since I first knew it, every-
one has cut down and no one has planted, and as soon as the
Italians start an "arbor day" and make it a Government
holiday, the better it will be for the colony. The environs
of Asmara were formerly fairly wooded, and with the excep-
tion of two or three trees in ihc native town there is not a
vestige of bush or wood to be seen with the exception of
castor oil plants. After the rains when the crops are growing
on tlic plate.iu, there is something green to be seen, but Jn
May and early June it looks all burnt up. Ras Aloula'a
house built on the nearest hill to the south of the town Is
still left standing and has been taken by the GovemmcnL
General Kirkham's house is on the next ridge further south
and nearly in ruins. I can remember when his propert)' was
well kc-pt and quite a nice place.
The climate of Asmara is very good, and it is never really
warm in the hottest part of the year. Being on a wind-swept
high plateau and no sheltering trees it is very dusty, but tkCs
can be remedied in time, and could be made a perfect place
in comparison to the infernal hot and damp climate of
Massowah. There is no reason why it should not make s
good place for agricultural people to come to, but although
the Italians make good colonists and peaceful unoffeiKling
people in strange lands, they have not as yet learnt how to
found a colony of their own. On lower slopes than Asmara
where there is plenty of water, they have already made good
fruit and vegetable gardens, and all the European flowers
do splendidly. The vegetables for size and flavour could not
be beaten in any country, and I enjoyed delicious salads
during the whole of my stay there All the European and
I
FROftI ASMARA TO ADl-QUALA 125
linian cereals do welt, and the colony should before long
onl>' be a self-supporting one, but have a surplus for
'Exportation to the grain -consuming markets of the Red Sea.
Ab extension of the Maiisowah Sahaati line is projected, and
ifilis brought up to the high plateau, the question of trans-
pnt will be decided, which is at present the great drawback
to proper commercial development The further one get*
i)d^ the Hamascn plateau the more fertile the country
kcoinc5, and there are several millions of acres on the upper
pUleau alone that arc capable of being put under cultivation.
"hat used to be plenty of good water meadows, and if the
lecaj population of this country have forgotten how to irrigate
*iid lay out thwc meadows, there are plenty of Abyssinians
w the other side of the border that would come and settle
*iii help to cultivate the land. No expensive European
ogineers are required for this work, as the natives of Abyssinia
t^mughly understand terrace cultivation and irrigation, and
i>*rcily waste a drop of water. Many of the springs that were
i^nicTly made use of have became choked up with a rank
*<getation and the water runs away underground without
M^madc use of
The Hamascn u.sed to be known by the name of the
^liaof the thousand villages, and its ruin was due to the
t^yptiaas, and that arch traitor and ruffian Ras Walcd-el-
Ifichael. The latter killed the men and the former took the
*^Jen and children and sold them as slaves, and when I
■W went to the Red Sea as British Vicc-Consul with hcad-
lUiters at Jcddah, the Hedjaz was full of Abys^nian females
°lall sizes, mothers of families and small girts that had been
'•fceo from the Hamasen. The prettier girls were fetching
S' high prices as the Ab>-ssinian», when once they foi^t
r freedom and that they were Christians, settle down to
* barem life and their masters get very attached to them
*> Uiey are not so cold'blooded as the Arab female. Many
* Turk, Ii:g>-ptian or Arab official is the offspring of an
^%)sinian woman, and even the Italian prefers living in
1**latc so well described by Rudyard Kipling in his pretty
ftay of " Without Benefit of Clergy," to bringing one of
■o own countrywomen from Italy, consequently there is a
■ittd race already commencing, and it will be very interest-
's to know how they will turn out The children seem
"n'Stnwig and healthy and extremely good-looking, the girls
"Ulic lo Oian the hoys. With the open-air life they lead,
^ plenty of exercise, and a certain amount of education.
126 MODERN ABYSSINIA
they should not prove a failure like the cross between the
negro and European.
At last I got permission to start from Asmara and went
to say good-bye to General Baldissera who was as usual
kindness itself, and he asked me if I was determined to be
foolish enough to go into Abyssinia to let his frontier officer
at Adi-Quala know anything that might prove interesting.
I had quite a number of Italian officers to see me off, and I
got well chaffed, and they all said either we shall not see
you again or you will never come back. They were quite right
about not seeing me a^in, but a little out as to not getting
out of the country. It was a long and difficult journey, but
I managed at last to reach the sea coast at Zeilah after
seven months' travelling and being entirely cut off from the
civilised world. I saw one English newspaper in July 1896
and the next at Zeilah in January 1897, many things havine
happened in that time
It was impossible to send letters in safety as the
Abyssinian guards in the north had orders to detain all
correspondence and destroy the letters, and everyone waa
searched and their goods as well. One of my men that I
sent with a large bundle of tetters managed to get past the
Abyssinian guards at n^bt time, but only to be swept away
and lost by a flood in die Mareb river. I did not believe
the news at first, but I found out after some time thaA it was
really true, and that not only my messet^er but several
others that were crossing at the same time were drowned
during one of the terrible spates for which this river is famed.
On another occasion, when my servant Hadgi Ali was re-
turning from Erithrea he managed to save three Abyssinian
merchants in the Mareb, and there was nothing that these
people would not do for him afterwards. Hadgi AH is more
like a fish in the water than a man, and started life as a
" Heave for a dive, Sah," alongside the mail boats at Aden,
at which he made money and is now a prosperous man. He
was very daring, and I used to warn him against crocodiles,
saying they were worse than sharks when bathing in some
of the Abyssinian rivers. He had never seen a crooxlile
and did not believe in their being dangerous, but soon after-
wards a narrow escape from a big one made him more care-
ful, and I shall never forget his look and the choice Arabic
expressions he used when he saw a donkey taken away while
swimming across a river (we had a good sight of it as the
crocodile took it by the neck).
FROM ASMARA TO ADI-QIJALA 127
The road we followed from Asmara to the south was a
ver>- fair one, and waggons can be lued as far as the [Ulian
fort of Adi-Ugri, nearGoodofelasie, I was travelling through
a country I knew every inch of, and I was sorry to see tihc
ruin of many happy villages that formerly existed. The only
two that showed any .signs of prosperity were Adiquada and
Seladaro; at the latter we encamped. The rains had not set
in on the loth June, although there were several rain and
^understonns locally. Wc left Seladaro fairly early and
continued our route through the wild olive forest to Checut
which was also in ruins, and then down over the sources of
the March to Debaroa, a famous old town once, but now
wttfa a tumbledown appearance and nearly uninhabited. It
has a lar^e mound of debris quite close to It which, I am
certain, contains ruins.
The road after Debaroa then opened out into the
Tcremnie plain and gave me a glimpse of the strong
fortress of Adi-Tchlai, Kas Aloula's old .stronghold, ana
Adt-Saul with its wonderful sycamore fig-trees, twth to the
west of the main road. Tcremnie plain used to be well
cultivated and carried very large herds and flocks of cattle,
but it is now abandoned and the plain tenanted by a few
antelope only. 1 camped at my favourite resting-place at the
top of the water meadows in a clump of trees, and then went
off to the village to see if any of my old friends were still
alive; I found the old choum Berhanie Wad Johannes still in
existence, but in very reduced circumstances on account of
the cattle disea.se and the famine. He was very glad to see
me aod we began ttlktng about old times ; he a.sked after the
Admiral Hewett who had been very good to him, and I told
him he was dead, and I asked after some of my native friends,
and they were cither dead or gone away, and the changea
titat had taken place had been many. He seemed very con-
tented with the Italians, but he told mc things about the
land which I was to verify next day ; the action of the Govern-
ment had not reached his district, and he was in hopes it
never would. I bought provisions in the village cheaper
than at Asmara, but still very dear for Abyssinia ; on former
occasions when I had visited the place they would not have
coBt the tenth of the sum.
My mules were all very naughty in the morning, and
wtHild not be caught, and they galloped from one end of the
water meadows to the other, and had it not been for an Italian
poUce sergeant with his mounted native escort, we never
128
MODERN ABYSSINIA
should have caug;ht them, as it was, wc did not get awny till
noon. The Italian police force in Erithrca is a very fine one
and have little or nothing to do, as the population are so
peaceful; they arc well paid and well mounted on good mules
but have very few horses left, and the Italian native cavalry
cease to exist as a mounted force, owing to the horse disease
which started the same time as the rindeq)cst
When peace is finally settled bet«-een Italy and Abyssinia,
Erithrea will be a very inexpensive colony to govern, as it
will require few permanent troops, and a good milJtia could
be formed out of tlie Abyssinian peasantry who need only
be called out in the slack time of the year in September before
their crops arc ripe. The number of civilians required to
govern the districts need not be large, as the best way to levy
taxes is throuj;h the choums of the different villages, and they
arc not likely to be able to oppress the cultivators, as they
will be told what their taxes will be; The moment the Soudan
is pacified, there will be no cause for fear from that country
along the whole of the border, and the settlement of Ab>'ssinian
affairs cannot take many more year?, as it depends on the life
of the present ruler, and then civil war amongst the claimants
to the throne, which the priests and peasantry may combine
to put down. Italy has no cause to be frightened of the priests
as long as she does not allow Roman Catholic Missions to try
and win over the Ab>'ssinians to that faitb, and if their clergy
were given to understand that they were not to be interfered
with by the Roman Catholic missionaries, but on the contrary,
that they should be helped to improve their own faith, thetr
churches and church land, and encouraged Co go to Jerusalem
so that their ideas should be widened, and while at that city
should be under the protection of the Italian Consul, they
would not only receive the help of the Abyssinian clergy in
Erithrca but be welcomed over the border when tliey wanted
to push their frontier further forward, which they must do
some day.
After leaving Tcrcmnie I rode along with a train ortr*M-
port waggons going to Adi-Ugri which I passed, so did not
go over the fort. 1 never feel free inside a fortress and Et ti
the last place to get news from. I knew there was a hearty
welcome for me there, but I wanted to hear what the country-
men had to say, so 1 only stopped at a Greek caft^, had an ex-
cellent little meal, and bought a lot of good white bread from
the Greek baker, and went on to look at the Italian agriculturaJ
settlement, and encamped near the largest village of the
tUlA TO ADI-QUALA l5
ith of Adi-Ugri I sent up one of
>:houni, if he was the aatac mm that
uld be glad to sec him next momiog.
:.rupcrlyarrangc(l,and everything under
i.lwas earning on, when thecfaoum arrived
I, tcdj.and a sheep, which I did ootwant,
my own, and at the storm then burst, I
•'.HI while I had my dinner. He was very
• irnenced by holding his shamnu up before
; I nt to keep me from the evil eye. I told hint
a-iied of it, as my servants were thoroughly
cccd his followers were the same. He replied
iicn in his country liked being screened when
. .acats,tKat 1 might like to follow their customs,
ly an act of courtesy on his part, and to show that
tiling to do everything for mc
"|3 cboum was a very intelligent man, and he gave me
xpioioa regarding Uie land question which is worth
what be said was nothing very new or startling, but
t same it had the credit of being true. I have heard
Opiiiion expressed before in the Soudan nearly in the same
and I believe it wants an education like our Indian
9 have had, both past and present, to thoroughly uoder-
Uud what the native feelings arc on the land question ; and
Ihqr would say that they thoroughly sympathised with the
(fawm and what he said, am) if they administered India in
the lune way that we have hitherto tried to do with the
Studu, which unfortunately the Italians have copied, our
over India would not be what it is at the present
aiL In Abyssinia, ever since it had a history the land
b ilway> beUmged to individual people representing the
had of a family or to village communities, and worked
joiody for the bnicAt of alt, or in other words, it was more
<f aanamunistic business than anything else ; the land was
Md without title-deeds, because no registration court existed
ud even cbe church lands were not defined, and the right
lothe land was by the knowledge of the local people, and aJt
<Udren were shown the marks which bounded the different
Pnfttrties ; this is not unlike what takes place in the city of
uadoo to tbo present day.
If Italy claims the land in Abyssinia by right of conquest,
Jt Biy be said that all private titles to landed property are
■mfid and no native has a right to anything ; but what the
tkhiiD complained of to mc was, that neither he nor the
I
130
MODERN ABYSSINIA
n
majority of the landowners fought against the Italians ; on
the contrar>', they aitied them under the idea that ihey would
be treated fairly and that their property would be ratpectcd.
That afternoon 1 passed through the new Italian agricultural
settlement and I saw that they had the pick of the ground,
and this was given to settlers from Italy, dispossessing
those that had cultivated the land formerly, and whose
ancestors might have worked on it for centuries, I have only
given one isolated case tn one district, but this had been done
in other parts as well, and what confidence could the natives
be expected to have in a government that started businea
on such a basis^
There is land in the Hamasen sufficient for all, and had
the government taken what they required for fortifications
and government offices nothing would have been said ; and
had they also issued a proclamation that all natives should be
allowed to retain their cultivated property on having their
claims registered, and also allowed grazing rights on the
mountains, no difficulty would have arisen, and the govern-
ment would have found that they had more territory than
they knew what to do with. Abyssinia, in spite of all it has
gone through, still has a vcr^* large population, and the people
show a great vitality and have large families, so tt is im-
possible to wipe them out like the Australian natives or H
Zealanders. There is also no reason that I can see at prcseot
why the Chriittian population should diminish ; on the contrary,
there is ever>* prospect of their increasing in number under a
settled government ; so the land qtu»tion is one of the greatest
importance, and as long as the Abyssinians are treated in a
fair and equitable manner they will be found to make good^
and peaceful subjects, and the reverse if treated badly. ^H
think when the English public Icam the facts of our dcalinjpl^
with the land belonging to the natives in Africa that they
will be thoroughly disgusted, and I think the wholesale seizure
of land that ha.s taken place in some parts is little removnl
if any from theft. I am sorry to use such a harsh term, but
nothing milder will meet the case ; these lands are given
away to the first settler that comes along, and the nati
flees himself ousted and his liberties curtailed, arvd he
to wish that he had not allowed the foreigner into the couni
In a peaceful manner.
I do not think the Italian government are so much M
blame, as they had a precedent for it from what had hitherto
been done by us In Africa ; but still 1 consider it wai die-
im- J
eot^
4
FROM ASMARA TO ADIQUALA 131
and Ill-advised, »nd I am afraid tJiat there is a good
deal of projierty held by people in Africa that the title-deeds
would not bear looking into.
The llalian agricultural settlement here was a very poor
affair, and the houses built for the settlers were simply a copy
of the ordinary Abyssinian, round-shaped, with the addition
of a fireplace and a chimnc>'. They were neither clean nor
5anitar>-, and their fittings were ill-arranged. The village
was built round a square, and I looked in vain for good
bams, storehouses and cattlesheds. No vestige of gardens
had been attempted and not a tree liad been planted. The
^^cultumt implements were also mostly very poor, but I
law a fair specimen of a light iron plough for two oxen
which was a great improvement on that in use by the natives,
and broke up the ground quicker and better
I bad a long talk to a poor Italian who was ploughing,
and be had about ten acres of ground under crop and was
bvcakinK up more ground hoping to get about twice the
quantity of ground under cultivation before the rains made
Inc ground too wet to work- His beans and peas were well
up and looking healthy, and about a live acre p.-ttch of wheat
left little to be desired. He complained of having lo:*l some
oxen by disease, and a nearly failure of his last crop by not
kuovring when to put the seed into the ground and on account
want of rain in the winter ; he had also received a little
le from locusts. His wife and family of children had
■n away to the sea coast after the battle of Adowa, as they
an invasion, and had not returned, and nearly all the
"btber Italian cultivator?* had done the same. He thought
It in time, wlien he got about fifty acres of laiul under
iltivation, that he would be much better off in Abyssinia
he could ever hope to be in Italy, and that when his
ildrcn got bigger that they would be able to help him
itly in his work. He could get the necessary education
them at Asmara, and he hoped in time that a small
"•cbool would be opened at Adi-Ugri, so that he would not
irated from them. Hi.s only companion was a smart
« little Abyssini.->n boy of about ten years of age,
ily one left of a famil>-, the other members having died
iring the famine. The pair seemed to get on very well
her, and the boy scetncd very fond of his master. The
ins arc very good to the Abyssinian children, and there
can be no doubt that the rising generation will be frietvdly
wtth the white folk ; so there is every prospect of a future
132 MODERN ABYSSINIA
for the colony and agriculture making great strides in the
country by the two people naturally helping each othor.
The road after Adi-Ugri is not fit for wheeled traffic, as
the country b^ns to get more rocky and broken and there
is one distinct outcrop of lava, but where the volcano is
from which it came, I never could make out The soil ii
still very fertile, and here the grass flowers and numerous
lilies were very pretty; this district had received the rain
which we saw falling on our march to Adigrat and was there-
fore in all its spring glory. On the road I met a very sad
sight, namely several of the native soldiers who had been
taken prisoners at Adowa and had suffered mutilation by
having one hand and one foot cut off. I pitied these »nait-
looking young men ; many of them would be cripples for
life, as for want of proper treatment the arm and ^^ had
become dangerously affected and they had lost entire use
of them.
There were many hundreds of these cases in the hospitals
at Asmara, and I often used to visit tiie hospitals and have
3 chat with them, and they seemed very thankful for a small
present of tobacco or cigarettes and a few cheap sympathis-
ing words ; as they nearly all talked Arabic I was entirely
at home with them. Their officers used also to be very
kind to them, and the Queen of Italy had at her own
expense sent out a doctor, who was also a false limb maker,
with a staflT of four assistants, to mend these poor people up
in the best manner possible, and a good many of them were
already going about with false feet and walking fairly wdl
without the aid of a stick. Some of them had hooks fitted
to the stump of the arm where the wrist had been cut off,
and others with a split contrivance which could be screwed
together to hold various articles. They were to be emplc^^
by the government doing odd jobs, and several that I saw
were already doing stable and other work. The officials did
not know how many mutilated soldiers there were exactly,
but they could not have numbered less than 1 5cx>. I sent
a good many across the borders back to Erithrea. In the
convoy was a mad Italian soldier who had lost his wits in
Abyssinia, and I do not wonder at others having done the
same, considering what they went through.
I did not go on to Adi-Quala but stopped in a nice little
valley at Adi-Gana, about an hour and a halfs march short
and just under the village. I remained there two days, and
then the Italian officer at Adi-Quala, who was acting for
FROM ASMARA TO ADI-QUALA 133
t.icutcnant Mulazzani, the TrontiiT officer, came and fetched
mc to the Government station, suying that the Government
had lost sight of me since the police sergeant saw me at
Teremtiie. He M)on found out I was no stmnger to the
place, and was surprised at so many of his soldiers know-
ing mc, and the greeting between his interpreter and myself.
I had known the man ever since he was a child, and I think
he gave mc a good character as 1 was never botlicred by the
ItaUan officials again, and they were alwa>'S glad to hear my
opinion of the country, as I perhaps knew a great deal more
about it and the Abyssinians than they knew themselves.
The next day Lieutenant Mulazzani came back and informed
mc thai Uie general did not wish me to go across the frontier
just yet, and I was to consider myself his guest. He gave
mc a very nice, clean new house to live in alongside his own
quarters, and ^e fortnight I remained there I enjoyed very
much.
Adi'Quala itself is not a strong place, but the line of
defence along the only path for many mites, both to east
and west, is up the road from the Gundct valley about half
an hour's ride from the camp. The zigiag road up ts
covered at every turn, and for the last 300 yards is not more
than ten feet broad, with a sheer cliff impossible even for a
monke}- to scale 011 one side ; a machine gun and a few rifles
00 the top would stop an army. In a few days after Lieu-
tenant MuU».;uii's arrival from Asmara I heard from Ras
Aloula, who informed me that he was sending Mr Schimper
to escort me to Axum, and he would be very glad to see
mc. Mr Schimper is the son of the late Professor Schimper,
the ETcat German botanist of Berlin, who passed over forty-
five years in Abyssinia and married an Abyssinian wife. Mr
William Schimper had received his education in Germany
and is a very well infonned man, speaking and writing
German, Italian, and Amharic very well, and having a very fair
kXKnvledge of English, speaking and reading it better than he
cxn write, and also talking Arabic ; he is also a very useful nun
all round with his hands, a decent shot and sportsman, and
knows a little on most subjects, and a charming companion.
He was with me for nearly six months, and I was sorry for
his wke and my own that he left me on his way down to the
coast after seeing King Mcnelek. who afterwards had him
arrested and beaten. Schimper complained of being home-
tick and that he had had a bad dream, and also that one of
the wandering minstrels had sung things uncomplimentary to
134 MODERN ABYSSINIA
him, saying that he would never succeed if he went to the
coast and a lot more rubbish that superstitious people believe
in, so he returned and got ill-treated instead of accompany-
ing me and perhaps getting a good billet from the English
officials.
Here we have an instance of a half-bred Abyssinian and
European, a clever and well informed man, believing in old
women's tales. King Menelek would not go to Axum and
be crowned as he was afraid of some prophecy that he would
be killed if he went there, and I could give numerous ex-
amples of what a curious race the Abyssinians are in this
way, and they have the most absurd fancies and ideas. I
have come across many foreign races that are superstitiottt
and a good few Englishmen ; but as the days of miracles are
over I believe that there does not exist a single thing that
cannot be explained, and I believe in no omens at aU, so I
always look at a superstitious person as being unreliable and
partly insane. My telegram arrived saying I could go away,
and our last night was spent watching a terrible thunderstonn
that came on just as we were going to bed and made sleep
impossible. I shall always retain the most pleasant m^nories
of my host Lieutenant Mulazzani and his great kindness to
me, which I hope I shall be able some day to repay. As
long as Italy has officers of this stamp and leaves them a
free hand she need not despair of her Erithrean colony goti^
wrong, and the country under their management would soon
become a success in every way.
CHAPTER VII
AXUM
^Ko cor
I rcf
mSht
E left Adi-Quala at 7.30 A.M., a very fine morning, and
in the best of spirits, only too glad to get away and
y only regret leaving Lieutenant Mulazsani bchiad ; and
I was glad we had a chance of meeting again at Ras
Hanfcsba's at Abbi-Addi, as wc were both to be present
at some marriage festivities that were to take place tJiere
Later on. Wc were followed out of the encampment by
many friends, and we said good-bye at the top of tJie pass
leading down into the Gundet valley. As soon as our
friends had gone back I made everyone hurry on as quickly
as possible, so as to get across the Mareb without delay as
1 feared being again stopped by some telegram, and once
the river, I could say circumstances over which I had
10 control prevented me from returning. The true story of
hat had taken place could only be learned in Abyssinia
and not in Krithrea. Our small escort which we took from
Adi-Qiiala liad to be changed at , Adi-Sayabou, the last
village in the (iundct valley, for another to take us to the
Mareb ; so I made a short cut to this village, which is in-
habited by I'iluari Waldcnkcl, with a force of about 200
irregulars in Italian pay. I gave backsheesh to my guards
that were leaving, at which they were greatly pleased, and
then went to pay a visit to Waldcnkel, who I had known
before ; he was delighted to see me, and wanted to detain
mc for Uie day and give a feast in my honour, which I
refused, pleading that I was in a hurry. He gave me an
-ibi antelope which had been sliot Uiat morning, and offered
c the hind leg of an immense kudoo tliat he had shot the
cning before. Its horns were as line as I had ever seen ;
iCAC were also offered me, but they were too large to carry
■bout, BO 1 suggested he should keep them till my return,
when I would stay and have a day or two's shooting with
him.
I piahed on at rapidly as I could to the Mareb, crocsed
■^ "
136 MODERN ABYSSINIA
over the bridge that spanned the river, and sat down under
a tree and breathed more freely, as I had been constantly
looking over my shoulder to see if I was being followed by
some messenger to recall me. The Fituaris guard would
not cross the bridge, as they did not know who might be
hiding over on the Abyssinian side, and they returned back
with a good present, saying that ajl my messengers and
servants that I sent back across the frontier would be helped
and well looked after. The moment my ba^age came up
we left the feverish bed of the river, and out of the vaU^
on to the borders of the Lalah plain, to an old ruined
Italian fort and post at Mehequan, which had been destroyed
and burnt after the retreat from Tigr^. Here we met Raa
Aloula's escort with another messenger for me who wanted
us to proceed at once, which I refused to do, and gave them
a letter to the Ras saying I should be with him In two
days' time, and that I had dismissed his escort as I was not
afraid.
There has been a very great deal of nonsense published
by people about the dangers of the bit of country between
Adt-Quala and Gusherworka ; certainly a Greek or two have
been killed by the inhabitants, but mostly owing to their
own fault, as they have been dressed as Abyssinians ; mer-
chants have also been attacked and looted, but this haj
been by people with a grievance, who rob strangers not
Europeans, so as to bring the ruler of the province into
disrepute. It is he who has to compensate the people who
are robbed, and he has to wait till he catches the robber
before he can repay himself Masquerading by Europeans
as a native is a great error ; only Burton was entirely
successful, and he got found out on two occasions. No
black man could whiten his face and palm himself off aaa
European, and the best plan to adopt is always to travel as
an Englishman, and be proud that you are one. Natives
always think twice about robbing a European, and then if
one goes with a nice manner, and is civil and firm, there is
a great deal more chance of being left alone and of seeing
things and being properly treated, than by aping the
customs and manners of the people of the country.
The reason why the country round Lalah and the Mareb
is not populated is that it is so unhealthy, being a low
depression surrounded by high mountains, and fever is very
prevalent. The heights round are populated, and the d^
pression is very fertile, and some piuts of it are cultivated
AXUM
137
crrry year; it has no permanent night population, except
in the dry season when the dhuira crops are ripening. All
the patches of cultivation arc very strongly z»rebaMl, and
VK proof against any animals except an elephant There is
plenty of game in this country; lion, leopard, pig, kudoo,
water-buck, and many of the smaller antelopes and elephant
osme up from the lower Mareb country during the heavy
rains.
! went out fn the afternoon with my gun to get a shot
»l some guinea-fowl and francolin, and sighted an old
sow (wart-hog) with seven very little pigs not bigger than a
cat, so I i^ave up shooting and watched them. The little
sucking pigs were amusing tittle beasts, playing about and
duitng eadi other, and for a long time thcj- were within a
fewyaJrds of me, until their mother winded me and made off
Md disappeared into a hole in the ground under an old white
utf nest I Just got back to the ruined fort in time, as a
*«nder»torm came on at five o'clock and lasted till ten, and
bo»it did rain ; we manned to keep dry, as there was one
Kuai in the enclosure that was not burned down and was
quilt watertight Sleep was impossible while the storm was
B«^on, and the flashes of lightning and the thunder were
Bontltaneous ; one always feels so small while these storms
tut
Next morning as usual the weather was fine, and by the
•■•t we got away at c^ht o'clock everything was fairly dry
tKtpt the road, which was very muddy in places. It is
•hays interesting travelling through a game country after a
wtry raiti, as all the old footprints of the animals have been
*ulied away and clearly cut new ones are to be seen.
Between Mchequan and the foot of Daro Tchlai mountain we
*»thc tracks of a leopard, hyenas, jackals, cats of many sorts,
fcnncc fox, pig, five different sorts of gazelle including kudoo,
"^ mice, hedgc-hofj, ratel, and many other animals, and
(ffauitaids large and i^mall, guinea-fowl, francolin, etc
We came across a number of natives, ploughing and
"■ving dhurra and making zarebas, and with the really good
™*^erop prospects arc unusually bright; the poor people
^y want a good season to put them on their legs a^ain.
"*n Tchlai district, which used to be so thickly populated
vd n well cultivated, is nearly deserted and the villages are
"iniins. This is nearly all church properly belonging to the
pi^tts of Adi-Aboona near Adowa-
We found the ascent from the plain tn much better condi>
138 MODERN ABYSSINIA
tion than what it used to be in 1884, the Italians havin?
greatly improved the road ; the Gasgorie pass at the top and
the descent to Gusherworka being still rather bad in places
owing to the recent heavy rains, and no one to make repairs
as soon as the road commences to wash away. The villages
on the level top of Daro Tchlai and the church were destroyed
and not a soul to be seen. Here the grass and bush bad all
been fired by the Abyssinians the day of the battle of Adowa
to bum out the Italian fugitives from the battlefield, who hid
in and fired from the bush, and many must have reached this
spot in safety only to get burnt to death in the jungle and
high grass which at that time of the year was as dry as tinder.
The trees on the road were just coming into leaf, and the young
grass was springing up and nature looking at its best We
got into Gusherworka, which is about three miles from Adl-
Aboona, just in time to get everything comfortable before tly.
usual afternoon storm broke ; the rain prevented the priests
from the monastery at Ad!-Aboona paying me a visit, how-
ever they sent me down by a servant a fat sheep, some white
tef bread, and a hom of excellent tedj. (Trust the priests foe
always having the best) An old friend of mine, Basha Rama
of Adowa, had heard of my being on the road, and he sent
me out some fresh fish, like a chub, but not so bony, and some
vegetables, with a hearty welcome back to Abyssinia.
Our camping place was on a big grass lawn with a stream
running on one side of it, and several excellent sprii^ oT
water ; the turf was fresh and green, and was dotted all over
with wild flowers, showing that spring had really commenced,
and that we had done with the red and brown colour of the
Hamasen landscape, and were hereafter to see nothing but
spring and summer colours till the next dry season set in-
Around my tent, and inside of it even, a purple and orange
crocus had opened their blooms amongst the grass ; pap^
hyacinths abounded ; freezias, both white and yellow; cela»-
dines ; daisies, large and small j a daisy-leaved plant with »
wee light purple and white snap-dragon shaped blosaoia»
groups of which were very effective and would make a grea^
addition to any English grass bank on which spring flow<«»
are grown. Large bunches of white trumpet-shaped lUie*
and others with not quite such a long flower, having a mauve
stripe down each petal, were most numerous, and that lavdj
little plant with the ugly botanical name of "cyanodi
hirsuta," was just putting forth its first blooms. I am mod
pleased to say that I have got several of these plants hone
AXUM
189
after many failures, and this summer they flowered
Curty well at the Royal Garxiens at Kew, and il is to be
Ikoped that next spring they will do better, and that the
lloirer-loving public will be able to see ihem in all their
beauty. A large bulb will put forth as many as a hundred
blossoms every day ; the three lower petaU are a light
pinktsb-mauve colour, and from the centre spring five or six
ftaihery light blue shafts with bright golden tips. Th«r
open at daylight in the morning and last till about three o'clodc
w Uie afternoon when they close and wither, another flower
on the truss taking its place next day. There were many
oUtr dowering plants that 1 do not know the names of, and
along the sides of the springs the forget-mc-nols and other
«ter-loving plants were common, and the pools were
'Kuly choked with watcr-cresi< whicli was imported into
Abyssinia by the father of Mr Schimpcr, my travelling
companion.
What with the flowers and fresh green grass and the
leader green leaves which clothed all the trees, the land-
xipc looked lovely, and the grey, brown and red hills, with
t^Kir patches of cultivation formed a good background.
There was, however, one serious drawback to itJi enjoyment,
w when the wind blew from the south-east it wafted a
>i^ smell of decaying humanity from the battlefield
tomi Adowa, part of which fighting^round was not more
tiuii a mile and a half distant from where we encamped.
Anwlier thunder storm at daylight that morning delayed our
«parturc, and before we got away several priests from
Adi-Aboona came to call ; two of them I recognised at once,
1» eldest being only in a minor position when Admiral
ilcwctt's mission was at Adowa.
We liad a long chat together, and they apologised for the
tsallnesa of their yesterday's present, pleading the hardness
w the times; tears came into (he eyes of the eldest as he
'(counted all the troubles that they had suflered and the
■lisery which the country had undergone — pcstilciKc, war
Ud famine had nearly mined priest as welt as peasant I
^ aU the pretty things I possibly could to them, hoped
^ now peace had been made that their position would soon
"yriwc, asked for the usual protection and good-will of tite
JwRy wherever I might go in Abyssinia, and gave Uicm a
1'^ backsheesh in money and some new cloth, and then asked
to be excused going to see them at Adi-Aboona, as I wanted
lo get on to Axum to see Ras Aloula as quickly as possible.
140 MODERN ABYSSINIA
I was blessed, had my hand kissed, and all sorts of nice com-
Eliments paid me, and was assured that all the clergy would
e only too glad to do everything they possibly could for me.
I mention this for the benefit of future travelle», «^o riiould
always do everything they possibly can to make friends with
the priests ; they are a bit of a bore, no doubt, but they may
prove very useful in the time of need, and if you are once
known to them there is always a refuge with them, and they
can get news through the country for one when other means
fail. A good name at the church at Adi-Aboona is always a
good thing to have, and I am pleased to say I have one, and
I daresay a time may come when it may prove useful
A lovely march to Axum, all nature blithe and gay and
at its best; birds singing and busy building their nests,
butterflies in myriads, and of all colours, toying over the
flowers, bees hard at work, mimosa trees one mass of bright
golden balls, or laden with nearly white bottle-brushed
flowers, and the lovely mimosa with a primrose bloom widch
ends with a rose-coloured tassel, the most beautiful of aU.
It was a day that made life a perfect pleasure^ and I felt like
a two-year-old, and enjoyed the scenery and the happy
reminiscences of days passed in this charming country.
We took the road that lay between Fremona and Debra
Sina ; the former used to be the headquarters of the Jesuits
in the sixteenth century, till at last, what with their cruelties
and debaucheries they were turned out of the country leaving
the worst traditions behind them, and the only monument
to them is a heap of ruins on a hill to the east of the road.
Debra Sina, to the west of the road, is a good-sized mountain,
which rises out of a fairly flat plain, which is again surrounded
by low hills. It used to be an important place before
Fremona was built, as the headquarters of the clergy in
this immediate district When Fremona fell the clergy onade
Adi-Aboona their chief place, and it has been a veiy
important settlement for over two hundred years.
Debra Sina is still inhabited by a few people, mostly
fanners, who hold land belonging to the church, and from
the further side of Axum on the west, to well the other
side of the ruins of Yeha on the east, a distance of over flfty
miles or thereabouts, and from Dara Tchlai in the north to
some ten miles south of Adowa, a distance of over thirty
miles, the property belongs mostly to the church. It is very
fertile land, and capable of great development, and l^
helping the Abyssinian clei^^ to regain their influence and
AXUM
141
friends of them, would be a very good policy if
Italy would only pursue it, as it would make Ukmii very
popular throughout the lcn{::th and breadth of Abyssinia.
The priests of Ab)'s3inia arc a very curious act, and
everyone that has written about them have, what I consider,
taken a wrong line. I do not say that what I write about
them is altogether right, but I believe I understand them
ax well as moitt people. Their great dislike to foreigners has
been caused by the missionaries, who have always tried to
umlcrmine the power of tlie native clergy and hold them
up to ridicule, and until tliey get to know a European and
sec that be docs not wLih to interfere in their religion, they
invariably do everything tliey can to prevent him from seeing
too much of the country, and learning too much of the
Abyssinian Church and its ways ; for this they cannot be
Uasned.
The tendency of the Greek and the Roman Catholic
Church in the east is to keep the peasantry and lower
classes in the greatest state of ignorance, and to carry on
their services in a foreign tongue. The Abyssinian clergy
do exactly the same, and use the ancient Geez lar^age
tOJCead of the modern Amharic in the churches, and their
power over the people is kept up by the threat of excom-
munication, and by other ctcrical anathemas, which have a
terrible portent for uneducated people, but have little or
no effect on enlightened and travelled individuals. Another
reason why the Abyssinian clergy dislike foreign missionaries.
is that every convert they make, which luckily are very few,
lakes a certain amount of money and ofTerings away from
the recognised church of the country. As far as 1 am
concenied, I have always recc^nised ^e Abyssinian cleigy
as being Christians, and believing in the one God, and that
has been quite good enough for me, and I really believe
the sole reason why they have not nrfonned and kept more
with the times U not so much that they have been kept
shot up from modem civilisation by the Mahomcdans. but
that so many different forms of religions have been offered
them by so many different nationalities, who all quarrel
AfDongst themselves, and all declare that the only sure way
of being saved is by adopting the method of which they
arc the exponents.
As long as 1 have been in the country I have always
treated the Abyssinian priests with the courtesy that is due
> tfaern, and have. I think, never given them cause to regret
142 MODERN ABYSSINIA
entering into religious discussions with me, and have left
them with the impression that their way of getting to
heaven is as good as any one else's, and that nothing God
dislikes more than [>eople, as long as they believe in him,
interfering with the belief of others ; and that as long as a
state has a religion which does not shield crimes againit
humanity, it is the duty of the people to support that faith,
and if they do not believe in it, they are at liberty to follow
another, but not to abuse the one that they have left
The Abyssinian does not push his religion like the
European, and the wholesale conversions of pagans and
so-called Mahomedan Gallas have been done t^ die rulers
for political purposes and not by the church.
The political reason for converting Mahomedans into
Christians died out as soon as Egypt ceased to be a ruling
power and as neighbour to Abyssinia, as it was the wild
and warlike Mahomedan tribes of the frontier that were
egged on by the Egyptian officials to raid into the highlands
to procure Abyssinians as slaves, out of whom they also made
a good deal of money for their private use.
The regeneration of the Abyssinians has now commenced
by being surrounded by Christian powers ; and if secular
schools are started by the Italians and the English, there is
no doubt that they will be well patronised by the better
classes, and that education, if confined to reading, writing,
and arithmetic, with a technical teaching'as well, will greatly
raise the population in the scale of civilisation, and wilt de-
tach many of the students from the churches, the only places
in Abyssinia where they can now procure an education. The
priests should be encouraged to pay visits to Jerusalem ; their
great ambition is to perform the pilgrimage to the Holy City,
and the voyage there and back has always a most benefiml
eflect, as it broadens their ideas and makes them less in-
tolerant than they were before, I have met many of tfa«n
that have been to Jerusalem on more than one occasion and
they have been fairly well informed men, and their churches
have always been better, and their congregations less fanatical,
than those looked after by priests who have never been cHtt
of the country.
The Italian officials are now happily much less priest-
ridden than formerly, and they also compare most favourably
with the French, who seem to protect their Roman Catholic
Church and use it as a means for interfering in the country.
An Abyssinian to improve his position will nominally get
AXUM
143
to the Roman Catholic faith by a French priest ;
I is the stepping-stone to French protection, and everyone
who has travelled in the East knows what that means. I
am convinced that the Italians arc now on the right way to
miprovc their position in the country as they have given up
the military policy and arc now doing cvcr>'thing they
ponibly can to attract Abyssinian settlers to their colony,
who find they arc much better off under Italian r\ilc than
they ate in their own country. They leave the Abyssinian
prints alone, and allow them to carry on their worship witb-
ontt let or hindrance, and had they pursued this policy when
they first entered Tigrf and made use of the Itchage, or chief
priest of Aby&stnia, who ranks next after the Abouna or
1 irdibishop, they would have had the whole of the north in
Adr favour, and perhaps the majority of the clergy through-
out Abysisinia as well.
My experience of the Abyssinian clergy has been that
ftty want to be left alone and to pray in peace, and be
-I mmd to culli^-ate thetr church lands from which they draw
^K^K majority of their revenues, and any nation who helps to
^Bt^is end will always be received favourably. Thanks to the
V^pdicy pursued during the Knglish expedition to Magdala,
^ nlefi a splendid name behind with the clerical [>arty, who
*m not only thankful to us for ridding tlie country of a
tynnt, but also for our kindness, generosity and universal
Wittesy to them ; and the dollars distributed by Admiral
Hcweit during his mission to the church at Adowa and Adi-
Aboona confirmed them in the idea that wc wished their
forty no harm, but that we were a tolerant and God-fearing
mtion. Priests of the Abj-ssinian faith who visit Aden sec
"w jurt and firm government under which they are not
HKdcsted and enjoy perfect liberty, and tt only makes them
*wi that they lived under the same circumstances. With
•S* Rtorc civilised and enlightened population that now exists
*»parcd to five and twenty years a^o, when I first became
■opiaintcd with the Abyssinians, the priests' position is not
*>u it was, and the majority of them know that thc>- have
Jniix many of the bonds by which they bound dotvn their
■xk and they have acted accordingly; and, I think, they
*^ )ee tliat it is quite imposLsiblc for them to keep the
■rabcra of their congrcsations in the ignorant state that
"tyircrc before. They also know tliat the days arc gone by
■wn everyone came to them for some charm or a little
,«ly water to cure a complaint ; the very practical, nineteenth
144 MODERN ABYSSINIA
century doctor is to be found, and not only the congregation
haa deserted to the modem school of medicine, but the priest
himself will trust in the new treatment in preference to run-
ning the risk in getting cured by faith or unaltered faoly
water,
I believe the majority of the Abyssinians care a great deal
for their religion, and it is only the more worthless ones that
are found round the different mission stations ; people who
are willing to change their faith the same as th^ wrould
their clothes, and when they have worn out al! that are to
be got, revert to their original one again, without pufaaps
being any the better or any the worse for the experience, but
only to be marked by others as beir^ utterly worthless and
unreliable characters. I will never have a male servant in
my employ that has been near a mission if I can help it
Female servants are different ; they usually are taught to sew,
wash and cook, and are generally cleanly in their habits, but
the majority of them run away from these establishment!
when they get a certain age, as they cannot stand the dis>
cipline and restraint ; and I don't blame them, as a more no-
lovely and monotonous life does not exist
With this digression we will continue our journey and arrive
at Axum, the sacred city of Abyssinia. Schimper met me
just outside the valley that leads into the town, having made
but a hasty visit to the town. The first thing he said in his
peculiar methodical voice was : " I cannot get into my house;
many are sitting in my garden and one Italian man at the
door." I asked him to explain what he meant and it turned
out that these people were all dead, having most likely been
wounded and died from their wounds or from starvation, and
there they had remained with no one to bury them, and as the
outer door of the enclosure was shut, the hyenas and animals
had not been able to get in and eat them. The body at the
front door of the house was evidently, he thought, of an
Italian officer who had most likely known his house and
sought refuge there. He reported that it was nearly im-
possible for a European to live in the place, owing to the
disgusting sanitary state of the town, but some of the inhabi-
tants were returning now the rains had set in, and the smell
was not nearly so bad as it had been.
The direct road into Axum from Gusherworka runs
between two hills ; the one on the left hand is crowned on its
highest point by the church of Abouna Fantaleon, one of the
famous old church dignitaries, and the right hand hill is
AXUM
145
Hasscna and belongs to Ras Alouta, where he has a
jc farm and several villages for his soldiers, who are
aeuly all of the yeoman class. The mountain on which the
church of Abouna Pantalcon is situated throw» out a spur
»hich half blocks the main valicy ; this spur gradually
■kclincs in hdght and the cliffs formed arc nearly per-
patdicuUr, and the different steps are covered with vegcta-
tkm. long lines of while lilies being most conspicuous. The
hit step slope-t gradually to tin: valley and is covered with
ancient ruins of tombs, most of them covered with thick
brtish, but one or two of the tombs are in a, good state of
pKscrvation.
This! place wants completely clearing of brushwood, and
then the heaped up earth removed, before any good description
of M could be Riven, and the only thing visible is a mass of
Inge dressed stones of rectangular shape, nearly covered with
v^ctatjon. Immediately above and about twenty-five feet
U^er than the road is one ruin in very good state of prc-
tenntion, surrounded also by many dressed stones of large
sw strewn about in confusion, and they perhaps formed part
t'tbc building now left standing. I could find no inscription
Hlliein. This building is the shape of a porch and ha.s a
Bi|iit of steps leading down inio a room. On each side
ifce are two receptacles made out of blocks of stone whicli
■Wt evidently us«ld as a place of sepulture; from the room
lt*dt a passage blocked by rubbish and ending with a door
9tnd out of an enormous stone, which seems to be intact
^ never to hitvc been touched since it was originally put
•Wo positicm.
I do not think that anyone has given a tnie explanation
*>*tiat the ruins of Axum really are, or can put a true date
**> ttken the country was at its chief era of prosperity. Ix>ca)
'^tions go for nothing and are absolutely without value,
*Bd in this case the people say that it is the outlet of the
that leads to Jerusalem, along which the Queen of
travelled on her way to sec King Solomon at that
"fy, and that the son that resulted from her visit, who was
^Ued Mcnclck I., also made use of this passage, arxl along it
'^ brought tlie Ark of the Covenant containir^ the tible of
'*»»igiven by God Almighty to Mo-ses on Mount Sinai, aad
"u when the Ark pa.<ocd out of this pass.-igc, the end door
I 'looed to and has not been opened since. It will be opened
J^nfcday when a white man will come through it, who will
^'* a most powcrl'ul king and will rule justly, and everyone
L
^
146 MODERN ABYSSINIA
will be happy and contented. A pretty fajiy tale legend
and on a par with many of thetr others, but not a good
beginning and introduction to base history on and to write a.
description of Axum for modetTi readers.
On turning the comer on which these ruins of the old
Axumite burial ground are placed a splendid view of tine
present town is obtained, which is built mostly on the right
hand or western side of the valley. Along the foot of the
eastern ridge there are very few buildings except at the
immediate vicinity of the grove of trees that occupy the
middle distance and shelter the sacred church and its
surrounding houses and the many ruins of an ancient
civilisation. There Is a stream that runs down the valley
and meanders along its lower part and runs between tw
sacred grove and the eastern small group of buildii^s, and
then continues its course through tiie open market gteen
until it loses itself in the open ground or plain that stretches
to the south and south-east of ^e town. Immediately under
the eastern ridge a large and ancient tank occupies part of
the valley, and can be filled if necessary by running the
water from the stream that runs through the valley by a
channel that taps it about two mites further up ; the faeig^
of the top of the tank above the lowest part of the stream ii
at least fifty feet
The quarry from which the large masses of granite were
taken to make the many monolitiis is also near the tank,
and on the same side but opposite to where they were
erected. Dealing with such enormous weights and putting
them into their places required quite as much engineering
skill as that shown by the ancient Egyptians or the in-
habitants of Babylon, and most likely the date when tiiis
now forgotten art existed was contemporary in both
countries. On the west side of the valley the ground
slopes gradually in terraces j the lowest one, nearest the
stream, is dotted over with monoliths of many patterns
placed with absolutely no regularity, and they extend from
near the tank to the commencement of the sacred grove
from which they are divided by the main road, which runs-
on through the lower town and leads out to the open countiy
beyond.
The modem houses of Axum nestle under the b^^
western ridge of the valley and also cover a very large axcM'
beyond the church. The town Is made up of a vast number*
of walled enclosures and many of the houses are well built*
AXUM
147
the number of trees within the town gives it a more
mial aspect than any other African town I have ever visited.
We stopped at one of the gates leading into the sacred
pove and dismounted from our mules, and I was taken to
Ibe bouse that belongs to Ras Aloula, situated within the
enclosure. This sucred enclosure is of great size and is
blly a mile round and an irregular oblong in sliape. No
lioabt it was originally much smaller, but by degree? it
hs been added to and the area of the sanctuary increased,
i^le seeking refuge within this place are safe from their
and not even the king has the power to take them
It is also the storehouse for all the valuables of the
ntrystde during the time of war, and may be called the
national Safe Deposit of Axum.
I found that (he Ras was with his chief men and officers,
indhis soldiers were lounging about the lanes by which the
house was surrounded. I was immediately recognised by
(hoK in the courtyard, and had to shake hands with a great
amber before I was ushered into the big reception room.
Tbe Ras was sitting on his usual throne, a cushioned native
Ugarcb, covered with black satin, ornamented with silver^
»wk and trimmed with little tonguclcss silver bells; he rose
•iien I entered, and seized m>' hand in a most friendly
lUnacr and bade me welcome, and had a chair placed for
oe touching his seat. Several of his officers, old acquaint-
<Kcs of mine, abo greeted me, and the Ras commenced
vith a string of questions of what 1 had been doing with
syxlf and how all his old friend.s were. He told me that
fe knew all about Colonel Slade's and my movements soon
fiki we arrived in the country, confirming what I have
linys said of the wonderful Intelligence Department that
IW Abyssinians possess, and that they alwa)'s know what
Aeir enemy is doing and all about him, while it is very hard
kjct proper information regarding their movements. The
CQOtcrsation was the usual one on the topics of the day, and
ifct drinking some of tlie excellent tedj that the Ras always
pnivides, he sent me off to his own house, and said business
^■ikl keep till to-morrow. Schimper was astonished at
BVtcceptktn and that ttic Kas had been so friendly; and I
tudhim that he had always been the same with me, that I
pofoctly understood the blunt, honest soldier's character and
wt y«oman bringing-up, and that the courtier was only one
put of bis character. Schimpcr's face was beaming with
M|hl, and be said : " Oh, this is a very good thing for me,
ttfa^^
U8 MODERN ABYSSINIA
as you will be my neighbour; it is a great honour for a strai^;er
to be given the best house that the Ras possesses. Now I
am not frightened for myself, my wife and my children ; I
have alwajrs lived in dread that I should be put in the prison.
because I worked with the Italians," The description of Ras
Aloula's house I have given in another part of the book, and
I have to thank him for his kindness to me during a sojourn
of nearly three and a half months in Ttgr^ and especially
during ^le time that I was so ill with enteric fever, brougbt
on from the horribly insanitary state of Adowa ; not a day
used to pass during my long illness that he did not seod to
inquire how I was and if he could be of any use to me, and
as long as he was anywhere near 1 was sent fresh milk daSy
from his house. I had every little attention paid me by him,
and when the Council met at Macalle to determine whether
I should be immediately sent to the south to King Meneldc
or allowed to take my own time and wait for my supplies
from Asmara, so that I could travel in comfort, his was the
only voice raised to give me time and let me do what I liked.
During our many long interviews I perhaps had a better
chance of learning what had taken place in the country and
what the politics of the north were than any of the Italians ;
and Ras Aloula might have been a very useful friend to
Italy could they have forgiven him for the Dogalt affair, as
he had a great respect for the Italian officers and for their
course and utter fearlessness of death. He always spoke in
the harshest terms of General Baratieri, and he seemed to
have the greatest dislike for him and for all his actions, and
it was his distrust of him that made the Ras keep his own
spies in the General's camp while negotiations were being
carried on, who gave him the news that the Italians were
advancing to surprise King Menelek at Adowa. Ras Aloula'9
death was a great loss to Abyssinia, and, no doubt, had his
wounds been properly attended to he would have survived.
He and Ras Hagos of the Tembien had a dispute about
some landed property, and they and their followers fought;
Ras Hagos was kilted, and Ras Aloula was wounded and
succumbed from his wounds some few days after. He was not
liked by many of the Italians, but all those that had personal
dealings with him spoke most highly of him. Sir Gerald
Portal quarrelled with him when he visited Abyssinia, and
said things about him which were hardly justified. There
are always two sides to a question, and only one has been
published, and some people are apt to give judgment fust
AXUM
149
hear the evtilence itHerwards. As both Ras Aloula and
Sir Gersid Portal are both dead, the matter may siiTcly be
aUovred to drop.
Rut Aloula was most useful to Uie EnglJjth Mission In
1884, and he performed everytliing he was asked to do in a
tDost satisfactory manner ; and the many ycara I knew him
1 always found him a brave, straightforward, truthful native
j^BMtlenian, and I am sure many Kuro{>cans who have been
^K the country and have had dealings with him cannot lay
^^aiffl to a tithe of these virtues. He was over the medium
" lieght, very broad and deep<hestcd, active, a splendid rider
aad ninncr, a good shot and enormously stroni*. He was
very good-looking, good eyes, well-shaped nose, and very
white and perfect teeth, and had short, black, wavy hair, and
Ms ovore like a brown Englishman than anything else; he
had nearly always a pleasant smite, and he enjoyed a joke
nd was a charming companion and story-teller, and a mine
^_Df information about his own country. I never met an
^■Abj-ssinian official who was less fanatical, and many of his
l^fiiends and agents were Mahomcdans, not Dervishes ; and
ihii was one of the reasons that the late King Johannes
("vards the close of his rctgn did not trust him so much as
idTEncrly, as he would not use the harsh measures towards
^ Matlem.-) tliat the king had ordered to be carried out.
The hours at Axum flew by most quickly, and from day-
ht till late at night I wa.i busily employed inspecting the
n% and paying and receiving visits. I shall not try and
^escribe the ruins fully, as the greater portion of them are
" ! with by the late Mr Theodore Bent in his very intcrcst-
[and very accuralc book called "The Sacred City of the
" »ans," published by Messrs Longmans, Green & Co. in
95. Mrs Bent accompanied her husband, and their crossing
file frontier of Erithrea to Abyssinia was a very plucky and dar-
^JH feat, considering the disturbed state thecountrj- was then in.
It ii a great pity that they were only ten days at Axum, as the
|*»i> and its surroundings cannot be proi>erly explored in so
Vort a time. I have been there several times, and must
">ve passed at least six weeks in all, and every day 1 came
^_Vkik something fresh and interesting, and I am quite certain
^HHid not examine nearly alt that there was to be seen above
V The secrets of the place arc all hidden ; the bush requires
" WW to be removed, and then the screw-jack and spade must
^•used 10 remove the big stoacs and rubbish that have
150
MODERN ABYSSINIA
accutnulntctl for centuries, and then excavations would have'
to be undertAken before the ancient buildings arc laid bare
and some ground plan drawn up of this marv'ellous old town.
After every heavy downpour of rain, old coins are washed out
of the soil, and after one exceedingly heavy storm I wa.t lucky
enough to get two copper coins and a little bronze figure.
The small Abyssinian boys are delighted to accompany a
stranger about the place, and I always had several to ac-
company me in my walks; they are intelligent, sharp-eyed
little urchins, and take a great interest in the search for
curiosities, and unless someone is there to reward them for
finding the old coins they do not trouble to pick them up^
«8 they are of no value to them.
I always think it a great pity for one traveller to crib
the ideas and work of another, and I shall therefore refer my
readers to the late Mr Bent's book for particulars of what
both he and 1 saw, and only add details which he has failed
to describe. Unfortunately the measurements of many of
the monuments and stones that were taken by me were left
with my luggage at Adowa when I went south, and I have
up till this day never been able to recover it, and the only
measurement that I have with me is of the large fallen
morwlith ; this huge stone, broken into several fragments, is,
roughly speaking, about one-third lai^er than Cleopatra's
Needle on the Thames Embankment, and the engineering
difficulty of removing it from one side of the valley to the
other must have been enormous. Its workmanship is of a
very high class order, and it seems just as clear cut as it
was countless centuries ago. Tradition says that this one
was destroyed by Gudcrt, Queen of Amhara. when *he
visited Axum, but what date no one knows. It was,
however, soon after Abyssinia was converted to Chrta-
tianity, and her reason for dc^ng so w.-is that It was a
monument belonging to the pagans, where the>' sacrificed
to their god who was not the true one, The people go
so far as to say that the way it was thrown down was
by a trench being dug from the nvcr to alongside It*
foundation, and the water undermined it and it fclL All
these local traditions may be founded on a small grain of
fact, but they arc very unsatisfactory evidence to try and
build histoiy on. What may be taken for certain is thatt
Axum has been destroyed and sacked on many occasionu
and most likely the last time was perhaps, hut 1 do not %ay\
for certain, by Matiomed Grayn, or orK of bis followers, butj
AXUM
151
: seem tliat he intcricrpd with the standitip tnonu-
raents or more damage to them would have been done.
The old town of Axum must have mostly been built on
the western ridge and not in the valley, as the traces of ruins
tod wcll>dress«) stones are more numerous here than any-
where else High above, on this western ridge, are the ruins
of another large temple or church, of which little or nothing Is
», except by tradition, which says that it was the large
lie belonging to the very old people its four sides
oiot due north, east, south and west ; quite close to this is
rain of another small temple, similar to that at Kohcita,
■hkh is, I believe, of the same epoch as that of Adulis or
ZsUah. where the English expedition landed. We can now
baoc, without the least doubt, the road from the sea coast
toAxum, which was made use of by the ancient Egyptians,
Sibceans, Greek allies, or whoever the civilised people may
htve been that first inhabited this countr>-. It started from
Aihilis, then went to the Koheita plateau, where there are
■ore niins than what Mr Bent visited (near to the Adults
tod of the plateau). Then leaving the plateau, tlie road
mint have followed above the present Cascas-v: pass to
Amha Arab Tcrica (this name may be derived from the
'icrtrcss of the road of the Arab"). It then descended into
ihe Senafe valley, where, besides other ruins, there is a
•Molith standing with a sun and new moon engraven on its
tcp face, the same as found on some of those at Axum ;
iMic is also a sacrificial stone exactly similar to those round
Uic monoliths, and in the sacred grove at the same town.
iVnin Senafe valley, or more properly speaking Kfcssi, to
Vdia, nciir Adi Aboona and Adowa, is about thirty miles as
Ibe crow flics, and from the hilt above this monolith at
£&SBt, the mountain above Ycba is plainly visible.
To get over thirty miles of the map in Abyssinia is a terrible
t'*]'^ march, so doubtless there arc old ruins between these
t^Q places. I have never crossed this bit of country, and the
DHhres cannot be relied on, as anything to them h old as
liiQK as it is broken or in bad repair and one often has a trip
'k nothing, and when some great find is exjiectcd, it turns
oil to be some wretched modern house that has tumbled
^Mrn. perhaps during the last rainy season. The sacrificial
■mie at Efessi tradition attributes to having been brought
l^' All, the nephew of Mahomed, from Axum when the
fophct recalled his family to return to Mecca, they having
(■mq refuge there when Mahomed fled from Mecca to Medina.
152 MODERN ABYSSINIA
This is a very useful bit of history, as it makes an undoubted
landmark amongst the sea of unknown epochs, and fixes
Axum as a recognised sanctuary of the Christians over 1300
years ago. Mahomed also curses any of his foUowen that
make war against the Abyssinians of Axum, because they
treated his family so kindly, and this may be the reason wlqr
Mahomed Grayn treated it so leniently compared to othn
towns ; therefore in this instance tradition may be correct, as
there can be no doubt that Mahomed's family visited Axum.
I should like if possible to trace this road further, and
connect it up with the island of Meroe, or that country bordered
by the Tacazze or Atbara, the Rahad and Blue Nile, and Nile
proper, which is now a desert, but in ancient times was thickly
populated, and the seat of a very old civilisation bringit^
us perhaps to the most ancient Egyptian times. There are
plenty of proofs that not only ancient Egypt but ancient
Babylon traded with or fought against this country, as
the pictures on the ruins in the two countries show. The
myrrh tree is figured on both, and so is the cheetah or hunt-
ing leopard, one of the nicest pets that can be kept in the
East, and often showing dc^-like fidelity. The myrrh comes
from Somaliland, and it is reported in the Danakil country,
and was no doubt brought by the inhabitants of these countries
to either Koheita or Yeha, and it was shipped from AduUs
north and north-east, and carried perhaps through Axum down
that ancient trading road that must have existed to Meroe.
The ancients that visited Axum for trade must also have
been aware of the road from Axum across the Tacazze to
the north of the Semien province, and the lost Adulitan
inscription describes the snow mountains of that country.
Travellers should always be most careful in what they say
regarding the little known countries that they visit ; here in
Abyssinia people are more likely to err perhaps than in any
other country, and say things do not exist because they have
not seen them. Bruce questions Lobo's statements regardii^
snow in Abyssinia on the Semien mountains, because he dM
not see it. Mr Bent confirms what Father Lobo says, that
snow exists. Both Bruce and Lobo are more or less rig^^
as the highest Semien peaks are snow clad during part cs^
the year, but sometimes there is not a trace of it to be seen.
I have seen these mountains during nearly every month <^^
the year, and during the cold season there may be snow oi»
them for many days running, and it is quite easy to see that th^
snow 1 ies much lowersome daj^s than it does on others ; at other'
AXITM
158
■nes no snow Is visible, but that is no proof that it is
hot to be found in sheltered gullies And depressions that
cannot be seen from the point of observation. The natives
say that it Is to be found, and 1 really do not sec any reason
to doubt them, as there is no occasion for them to tell a lie
on a little question like this, I have always been desperately
imlocky in my travels in Abyssinia, as 1 never sec marvellous
6iags like some others, and 1 can only attribute it to a want
of tmagination and not from any lack of observation, as I
Un most careful to make mental or other notes on everytliing
ivtercsting that I come across.
I really believe that Brace thought he was telling the
Imth when he wrote about cutting beefsteaks off live animals,
«d that the people ate them raw. 1 have seen exactly the
WDc thing as he saw, but i should not describe it in the
tame manner, and it only shows how observant people should
be of every little detail I was at Axum at the time, so the
inckicnt is quite in place, and I hope I shall not be spoilii^
» good traveller's yam when I explode this old fiction,
W^t I complain of in Bruce is that he leads one on to
btiieve that the animal walks on till it is all eaten, but this
kdoes not confirm. Both pack bullocks, horses, or mules
•ffcr terribly from sore backs, and very often a sack of
nutter more like a long tumour forms under the hide, and
bttwcen it and the flesh, and often enough compromises the
I Bttb of the back as well. This tumour or sack must be
wHicly removed before the back will heal up properly, so a
I l"^ incision is made alongside it parallel to the back bon^
*iid the hide cut into a flap and lifted up, and the red tumour
'•removed ; the hide is then put back in its place again and
tbt wound bandaged. This common operation I have seen
VitAmed many times, and I have also seen the operator
«•«) his as-ttstants eating raw meat at the time, but not the
"llh and matter taken away from the animal. No native
1>M I have ever met has heard of such a thing as Bruce
"'t'cribcs, and they have been very indignant at the Idea o(
Mng accused of eating meat that has not been killed in the
°'ti>odox manner, that is, with a short pra>*er repeated when
"'csttimal's throat is cut. The only difference between the
'''Qghterint; of animals by Christian and Moslem in this
**">trj-, is the former turns the animal's head towards
]■ J5^«lcm, and sayf, in the name of the Virgin Mary, and
^K we oOier turns the animal's head towards Mecca, and »»y,
V «tmaiah," or in the name of the Lord,
154 MODERN ABYSSINIA
Travellers that follow me may say that snow never exists
on the high lands of Lasta, but I have seen it there, also on
the mountains above the Werri river on the load from Adowa
to Abbi-Addi ; it certainly never lay for any length of time;
but it might fall under some circumstances and remain for a
day or t«-o, especially if the weather was cloudy and there
was no sunshine ; certainly the behest peaks of the Semien
can now be included amongst the few snow peaks of Africa;
but not those where it remains permanently.
Mr Bent in his book on page i86 gives an illustratian of
an altar-stone at the foot of one of the monoliths mi& bunches
of grapes and vine leaves with a scroll runnii^ between them ;
on another of these altars, not described by him, is a similar
ornament, but the leaves are those of the fig, and the fruit
represented is no doubt the Abyssinian trungie or shaddock.
I remarked to Schimper at the time how curious it was that
both trees were growing within a few feet of this altar and
the likeness to diem depicted on the stone was most exact
to nature. The Abyssinian trungie is still carried by the
priests and some of the people of higher rank, and is often
smelt t^ them for its nice perfume ; it is a peculiar shaped
fruit not unlike what is seen in the East and West Indies, and
if Layard's " Nineveh " is turned to, voL I, chapi xv., page
125, there is a picture of a winged figure holding in its r^ht
hand u-hat is supposed to be a fir cone, but is a great deal
more like the Abj'ssinian trungie I am not aware that the
fir cone had an)- particular use amongst the Assyrians, who
are supposed to have been Sabceans, and the trungie is still
in use in Abyssinia.
Again if pages 35.1 and 3sS, chap, xiv., voL 2, of the same
book is refcTTCti li\"llie trappings of the headstalls for the
horses are idciiticAlly of the same ornamented pattern as are
made to this day in the countn-, and I daresay if further
researches were niAde, niAn>- other similar ornaments might
be found to resemble cofh other. The slinger depicted on
psige 344 has exactly ihr sanir kind of sling as used in
Ab>'ssinia to tlie present day. which differs considerably from
the ordinar>- sling, and wear:) his su'ord on the left side the
same as the archer, as if worn on the right side it would get
in the way when the wraixtn was being used, or the bow
being drawn. Other pictures giw the swordsmen wearing
their weapon on the ri^ht side, the sume as the Abyssinian
docs at present, and he is tlir t>nl>' native that I know that
draws his sword with the right hAml from the same side that
AXUM
155
ion. Canwhat I have jiist mentioned beany further evidence
to prove that these northern Abj*ssinians have a Sabctan and
AratM^in origin, or is it only a curious coincidence and a matter
of chance that the same things are found in both countries i
The only people who were caj>able of moving such masses
of stones as arc found worked at Axum were the inhabitants
cJ Babylon to the north-east, and the ancient Kgj-ptians on
He iwfth-north-wcst Axum seems to be the point furthest
south in Africa where these huge rocks have been quarried.
! believe the spade and pick are the only means of getting
« further details, and that a very rich harvest is to be
pihered in the vicinity of Axum and alonf; the old route
inm Adulis, and that further discoveries are possible on the
tection between Axum and some unknown point in the
Bland of Meroc which will throw more light on this nearly
nlmown country, I am not so sure that the monoliths
exceed in weight those of any Kg)'ptian monuments, and
tbiw have been transported to their places over a more
ABkuU country, and water power could not have been used
to float them to near the places where thej- are erected as in
EmM and the vicinitj' of Nineveh. When excavations arc
OMertaken inscriptions may be found that will tell us more
^xxit the Axumite dynasty which we know little or nothing
Ami, and it will lind its exact page in histor>-, and no doubt
•fcs Ptolemy era will be found to be comparatively modem
Mnparcd to the ancient kingdom of northern Abyssinia.
There arc monolith.s at Axum in all stages of workman-
lUp, from the beautifully finished ones to those in the rough,
ttd the way these immense stones were taken out of the
<fany can be seen distinctly ; a shallow trench was cut to
twtain water, and from its lower part holes were bored in
w rock which were plumed with wood, and the water
••tiled the wood and broke the mass of rock away. Some
Wbaric invasion must have taken place when Axum was in
ttc he^ht of its prosperity, and a great and rapid diange
'^tl have occurred, such as the Mahdi's invasion would have
'xcn on Kgypt had not the English been there to prevent it.
ioold write a great deal more about the ancient monuments
j'Axum that have hitherto only been partially described,
""tit would be of little value, and would only go to prove
"*« Hltle is known of this old scat of civilisation, so I shall
**lf add a little about its modem history which most people
*we more about than the dead and forgotten population that
*•** inhabited this interesting kingdom.
MM
106 MODERN ABYSSINIA
I mention in another part of this book that the present
ruler of the country, for reasons best known to himself, has
never visited the town. If he did it was in secret and it was
not known to many people; I could find no account of his
visit ; whether I have been wilfully misinformed I cannot say.
On looking at Whitaker's Almanac for 1897 I see the date
given of his coronation as February 6th, 1896, and I remember
soon after the civilised world was astounded at the defeat oi
the Italians at Adowa ; the French press was full^ofmarvellotis
accounts of the king's coronation at Axum, which were evi-
dently taken from the accounts of coronations of ancient
kings written by the old Jesuit or other historians. The
only European at Adowa during King Menelek's cam«i^
against the Italians was Monsieur Carrere, a French otfioer,
who was instructor of artillery, and I could not find out that
he visited Axum. He died on his way down to Fashoda
from Abyssinia to join Marchand, immediately after King
Menelek returned to Adese-Ababa, and it was, I thinl^
impossible for his letters describing an incident which Iw
did not see to go through Abyssinia and out by Djibuti and
arrive in France to be published at the time when these
descriptions appeared in print I think it was impossible
for him to have sent them, and there was no other European
that could have done so, so they must have had their origin
in the brain of some writer in France and have been written
for some express purpose. 1 could find no one in Axum or
in the country to give me any fuller details of an Abyssinian
coronation than what have already been published, and
giving accounts of ceremonies that one has never witnessed
must always be unsatisfactory and I shall not attempt it
King Johannes was the last king that was crowned at
Axum in either 1871 or 1872. On the direct road from Adowa
to Axum, about a mile and a half from the town but out of
sight of it, is an enormous sycamore fig-tree which no doubt
is many centuries old ; under this tree all kings who go to be
crowned at the sacred church have to change their clothes
and put on new garments, and from this tree the procession
is formed that conducts the king to the church where the
ceremony is performed. From near this tree to the sacred
grove on the right side of the road is nearly one uninterrupted
line of ancient monuments, among them being the one with
the famous Greek inscription which Mr Bent, like many other
travellers, made a copy of.
The king's palace is situated on the crest of the western
AXUM
157
ddgc above the town, and is in a bad state or repair; it
consists of several round houses, simitar to the ordinary
Ab^'ssinian domiciles, and enclosed by a dilapidated stone
wftll. None of the modem kings have ever remained lonj;
tf Axum, and the reason is not far to seek, as people who
have rebelled against the rulers of the oountr>', or have had
disputes with them, have always sought »anctuar>' at the
thsrch at Axum and the king is powerless to touch them,
uh) of course it is an awkward position to be in, to pray
under the same nxif with a person you want to imprison, or
nry likely to execute, or get rid of in some way or another,
TTiis is the only place in the kinifdom where the church
ii more powerful than the ruler, and it is a great boon to the
population to be able to have some place to go to where it is
pesdble to e$upe from an unjust kingly decision, or to
tiape from the jeiUoujiy or spite of a bad ruler. One sees
iS torts and conditions of men within the sanctuary, from
the innocent to those who have perpetrated the greatest
cHrks. To engage in a wordy war within the sacred grove
* allowable, but hghting with weapons or slicdding blood is
not permissible, and no one as long as he is a Christian can
ta arrested or touched as long as they remain within these
precincts. It contains many small houses to shelter the
Sigjtives where food can be bought, but no hydromet or
nUive beer or intoxicants, and storehouses where valuables
^ be kept, and the size of the enclosure gives ample
<^ortunily for exercise, so the people who seek refuge can
^wid the day in eating, praying and sleeping until they are
Pnloned, or can arrange to get across the frontier, away
■nn the clutches of their enemy.
The chief man in the country after the King of Kings, is
^ Abouna or archbishop, the head oJ the church ; without
^ Abouna no king can be crowned, and it ts he that at his
^"9 or the king's wish can excommunicate any of his
*>l>fKts, or the king himself if necessary, and then the king
^ only rule by the strength of his followers who adhere to
*SL There arc at present two Abounas with King Meneiek,
**1 they are played off one .tgainst tlie other. These arch-
"<iiDp9 come from the Coptic Monastery at Alexandria or
V)>To, and when they once reach Abyssinia, they never leave
" on any consideration. They are not natives of the country,
W tlw life-long exile must be very to-ing, as they have been
■ocwtomcd to more freedom than what they can enjoy when
"ey once reach Abyssinia, formerly their headquarters
158 MODERN ABYSSINIA
used to be at Addi-Abouna near Adawa, but now th^ are
kept near the king in Shoa.
After the Abouna, ranks the Itchage, or chief priest ; his
residence is at Axum, within the sacred enclosure, and
formerly on state occasions he was always with the king ; he
is always an Abyssinian, but his post is not a hereditary
one. Soon after my departure from Axum the Itch^e died,
and I do not know who has been chosen in his place. Tlie
late Itchage Theophilus was a charming man, and I saw a
good deal of him at Adowa during Admi^ Hewett's misskm,
and he was the first person, after visiting Ras Aloula, that I
called on. I found him suffering from a veiy bad cold «4iich
turned to pneumonia, and which carried him off at last veiy
suddenly. This disease is very common in Abyssinia, and
nearly always fatal ; consumption is also a prevalent com-
plaint, and many other diseases of the respiratory organs
caused by the sudden changes of temperature. The Itchage
had a most charming little house, evidently built from
Portuguese designs, as it was the only one of its sort that I
saw in the whole country. It opened on to a small but well-
kept garden, and here ihe good old man used to spend the
greater portion of his day in receiving visitors or reading the
scriptures. For an Abyssinian he was what might be i^led
a well-read man, and could talk very intelligently on most
subjects; he was not the least bigoted, and lamented greatly
the disturbed condition of his country, and the ignorant state
in which it was. He told me on several occasions that he
could see that unless reforms took place that Abyssinia
must soon pass under some foreign power that would grovem
it properly, as the taxation was too heavy at present, and the
exactions out of proportion to the benefits received, and it
was the best thing that could happen for everyone con-
cerned, except for the leading officials. His ideas were at
course distasteful to the present ruler, who had placed one of
his own clerical officials at Axum to report to him eveiy^
thing that passed there, and to keep a watch on his mov^
Dients and to find out if he had any dealings with the Italian^
as his sympathies were rather with them. He might be
called by some people a traitor to his king, whom he did not
recognise, but a lover of his country and fellowmen, and his
great aim in life seemed to be their improvement
I have met a good many priests in Abyssinia that are
of the same way of thinking, who would hail with delight
a foreign power that would govern the country properly and.
AXUM
IS9
nerfcre with their religion ; but their great fear seems
to be that if their countr>' was conquered that some new
religion antagonistic to theirs would be ftwced on the
country, and their church lands would be alienated. It
was always a great pleasure to tne to hear how well the
pocus spoke of the English and our expedition to tiie
ttnnlry, and how grateful they were for what we did for
than.
It Is very difficult to understand the Abyssinian Church,
ind as the mbsjonary writers differ in their opinions of it,
il is a difficult job for a civilian to give a lucid account ;
bit they all agree in one thing, that it is a very debased form
of Chnstianity, which they all think could be improved if
ftdr own particular way of jjctting to heaven was adopted.
Tbc disagreements among the missionaries that have visited
tiK country hnvc always been a scandal, and arc likely to
oninae so ; and the r^cneration of the Abyssinian Church
•ill commence when a higher education is given to the
people, and the priests are brought more into contact with the
(Wudc world. The Abj-ssinian Church, there can be no
dntit, is an ofTshoot of that of the Coptic Church of Kgypt,
fatti where it, is said the first missionaries started to Axum.
I do not think that there is enough evidence to show at
•lat exact date Christianity was adopted by the Abyssinians,
*J there is no reason to disbelieve that they heard of Jesus
Christ and the new religion during the life of our Saviour,
*> they had commercial dealings with Jerusalem and Egypt
*> that date, and some Abyssinians may have adopted this
^igion at that time: We have the very earliest Christian
Qwrtbes all down the Nile in Egypt and Nubia, and from
Ut: last old Christian colony on the Nile to Aby.<i.<iinia was
>o gnat distance ; and as in the present day news travels
flWccr over trade routes than by any other, there can be
WUe doubt tliat they received the news of Christianity, and
•porer and perhaps a more convenient form of religion than
'•irown, within a few months of its commencement.
Late in the third century or very early in the fourth the
^''■lised part of Abyssinia had adopted the new faith,
jwunasius the Great, about the ye-AT A.D. 330, was -tupposed
'" have sent cler^" to extend the church in Aby-istnia,
1^ no doubt at that time, owing to the undoubted Greek
^■uencc which must have existed for several centuries before,
*'" inhabitants wanted educated men to propound the
^ptuna and doctrines to them, as perhaps they did not
^.^
160 MODERN ABYSSINIA
agree amongst themselves. The Greek and Coptic Church
are not the same, I believe, but have many points in common.
Mentioning Greek influence, I must here tell a little story
that took place at Adowa during Admiral Hewctt's mission.
The same Greek consul that thwarted the late Gener^
Gordon on his mission to King Johannes was present, and
he told the king that "Greece was the biggest nation in
the world, and had conquered nearly the whole of it" The
king's reply was, "Yes, a long time aga" Ras Aloula
used always to laugh over this tale and was never tired
of telling it, and it also raised the ire of the Admiral, who
was very angry about it.
The Greeks have left Abyssinia alone lately and the
Russians have taken their place, and for political reasons
claim that the Abyssinian Church is practically the same
as theirs. They will be able to get a lot of the natives to
pretend to adopt their faith as long as it pays to do S(^
and there are things to be given away, but it will be a
serious and complicated business if the present ruler should
agree that the Abyssinian Church was to be protected by
Russia, as it would give them a pretext for interfering ia
this part of Africa, the only place where they have any
chance of getting a foothold ; commercially it would be of
little use to them, but politically they could make it my
disagreeable if they insisted on helping their new-found co-
religionists.
The Abyssinian Church is torn with schisms, just the
same as all are, and they have rebellious clergy like ia
England who are always appealing to the Abouna or Itchag^
and great arguments go on during which they get very
excited and angry, but I have never heard of them comii^
to blows. The late King Johannes used to be greatly
bothered with the church disputes, but I have not heard
whether the present ruler is the same ; however much they
may quarrel on minor points amongst themselves, they all
rally and show a united front against anybody coming with
an alien religion.
Mr Theophilus Waldmeir, who lived many years in
Abyssinia as a missionary, and who talked the language
well, complains bitterly against the Abyssinian priests, I
suppose for the reason that two of a trade never agree, and
points out one great difference between the Christians of the
south of Shoa and the Christians of the north. The latter
believe that Christ has two births, only one from the Fatlier
AXUM
161
t!ie other from the Virgin Mary, the former beh'cve that
he has one more, viz. ; that from the Holy Spirit by kiptism:
on this small point constant mcctintis and great ailments
take pUce. I have met many priests who believe that our
Saviour was a perfect God and not a man, others who
bdicve that he was a perfect man therefore a God, and
others who do not care very much what he was, that the
•Olid was good, and man was as good or as bad as cir-
aaistanccs permitted, and that we were not perfect but wc
wght to try and be so, and also try and make life in the
mrld as happy as possible, as we did not know for certain
«bere wc were going to in the next The last is a most
eoafortablc religion and the best, and many of the priests
wd monks live up to it and ciilti%-atc their ground, and say
thnr prayers and bother nobody, and arc ready to baptise,
•any or bur>' anyone when required, and join in tlie feasts
K the first two ceremonies, and the prayers and wailing at
Aethirti.
The Abyssinian religion is a pretty good jumble of
Wwything and fairly e);isttc. The young Abyssinian boy
b baptised at about the fortieth day, when he has a blue
• cord put round his neck and about the eighth or tenth
i*f after his birth he is circumcised ; sometimes, however,
lie silk cord is put on when the latter operation is pcr-
|onncd. Many of the priests say that the circumcision rite
•* practised because our Saviour underwent it, not knowing
Ubl their undoubted Jewish or Semitic origin is the cause
*iKl that it was practised long before the Christian era.
^1 is the only religious ceremony he undergoes until he
Gtts married in church and takes the sacrament with his
•"fc. These marriages arc generally made after they have
"Ved together for some time and they generally prove happy.
Tltt civil marriage, which the church has nothing to do with,
^OBC of pure arrangement and consists of a present cither
■Unoney or kind to the parents of the daughter.
The next religious ceremony is the burial, the body being
Ked in a mat or a cloth and carried on a native bedstead
the churchyard where a shallow grave is dug and the
M is placed therein, its face pointing towards the east,
it is covered up and the place of sepulture is soon
**l'tcrated by vegetation, and in a few years t-ntirely lost,
*Motnb«lonc being placed over the last restingplaca
™|«>c of the high officials or ro>'alty are buried bctH-ecn
*• Mter aad inner w.t11s of the church itself and their
L
162
MODERN ABYSSINIA
Rravcs last longer, but they soon are lost all trace of. The'
Chrbtiitn [^avcs arc not marked in Ab>'S3inia, and all burial
{pounds that are seen belong or belonged to the Mahomedans
w1k> think a great de:il more about tlieif dead than the
Al>yssinian». This must have been the custom for centuries,
otherwise inscriptions would still exist that would help to
determine tlie bistoiy of the country and the different dates
in which the kings and princes lived in the dtfTerent pro-
vinces. [ had great difhculty in finding the grave of Ras
Arcya Selassie, King Johannes' only legitimate son who was
buried at Macallc, and at last the place was pointed out
to me but there was hardly a mark left to ttdl the place
of interment.
I told the priests there that if they oxr visited England
they would find that wc put up monuments to our dead,
and that Prince Alamayon had been greatly honoured by
our quecn, and that he wn.'S buried in a beautiful grave in
St George's Chapel, Windsor, the cliurch adjoining Her
Majesty's palace. The priests arc alwa>'s interested to learn
that St George is the patron Saint of Hngland, and that
there is an English order of Saint Michael and Saint George;
they have many churches dedicated to them in Abyssinia.
I do not understand why it is or for what other reason that
tlic Abyssinian;; arc the only Christians that care little or
nothing about their dead, but so it is; there are evidently
Sabcean tombs that still exist, and In part of the north there
are burial-places of an unknown race. These people marked
the last resting-places of their friends, and these people must
have been the ancestors of tlic present race ; it is evidently
as I said before no modem custom, but must be centuries
old, as there arc no tombstones in any church that I have
vUited in the country.
As regards the burial itself, there is cnougli aobe made
to make a person remember the event for a long time, the,
women waiting on the house-tops or on the walln of thi
enclosures being the first intimation that someone has
passed away. The neighbours all congregate and form in
procession which conducts the body to the door of the
church, where the short burial service is read and they
then return to the house of the deceased. If the family
arc well-ofT eating and drinking takes place, and the scrip
tures and psalms arc read to well on in the night, aod If
ihc family is a poor one they provide what they can and
the richer ncishbours contribute in kind tOM-ardu the mc«l
IE
'4
LS ^
AXUM
163
X is partaken. Those that are well-off feed any beggars
may be in the neighbourhood and also give alms, a
mon ea5tcm custom and not confined to the Chrkitiaii
fdigion only.
Wc hear all the abuse of tlie Abys-sinian clergy from 90-
aUcd Cliristian Missionaries, and I really consider that many
li llieni are perhaps little better and just as bigoted and
ioolerant as ^e people they attempt to describe. Perhaps
1 bave met as many Abyssmian clci^ as most people, and
1 have ccrtiinly seen a few missionaries of nearly all nation-
ilitfcs, and I have on many occasions heard the Abyi^inian
fnaXs' opinion on the foreign brother of tlie cloth. 1 have
hctct beard these uneducated and half-savage people that
turr been cut off from civilisation and the outside world for
ccr.turics say such uncharitable things as those that have had
• ^[>'.xJ education, seen the world, and who, therefore, ought
-■low better. 1 always try to describe people as I find
-- i.. and I n«-er try to interfere with anyone's religion, and
far this reason, [wrhaps, 1 have been better received and have
hen shown more courtesy by the clerical party of the
tnntry than what the missionary has. 1 have never been
hsDited by an Abyssinian priest, although 1 have had a
thatch door shut in my face by one who has perhaps never
Mn a white man before; this is nothing to be astonished
it, but 1 have made friends with that priest in a very short
time, and he has apolt^ised for what he has done, as soon
li he found out I was a Christian and had not come to
I17 and convert him. There are many of them tliat are
'^rant and fanatical. We can find people who are the same
in Ki^iand, they as a rule dislike strangers because they
luvc heard nothing good of them ; they arc fairly immoral,
w are^many of the eastern clergy ; they arc superstitious
tnd have many of the greater and lesser faults of humanity
wfiich can be accounted for from want of education, and
tlicir country being surrounded so long by a bad govern*
•est and a people with a religion that has always tried
to put an end to their existence. The>- have never had
> Cood example to copy, so Uicy still remain in a state
tut can be compared to the vay wont chapter of the
fcatory of the European clergy ; when they did try a new
&>lh it was that of the Jesuit and the Inquisition which
^ did not like, and the colours of the picture of this
I tpxh have not faded but have been rendered more vivid
L ^ tradition. Theie has been no Roman Catholic in the
164 MODERN ABYSSINIA
country, a bit better than the more enlightened and educated
of the Abyssinian Church, and the Roman Catholic missiona
as a rule have been cloaks to hide politics behind. The late
King Johannes turned all of them out of the country except
one priest whom he left behind as an example of what they
were and their immoral character, he having so many ille-
gitimate children.
I have found the cleigy, if left alone, peaceable, simple-
minded men, very hospitable and always willing to do me
a good turn, and ready to help me and pass me on to their
neighbouring friends, and I expect other travellers would
find them the same as long as tiiey treated them properly.
When once their confidence has been won, they can be
made great use of, but if they think that the traveller has
any wish to interfere with them in any way they make the
wot3t possible enemies, and they will warn their other
friends against him, and he will meet with a bad reception
everywhere.
There are many poor churches and poor priests, othen
are very rich and possess large tracts of land ; these latter
priests live on the best that the country can produce and
they feed a great number of the poor daily; the former
must, poor people very often, beg for their living, and do
things that their we^thier brethren would not think of
doing, so comparing the two would be the same as a
foreigner giving a description of the clei^ of England
based on seeing some wretched curate with a laige family
and a salary of sixty pounds per annum. Whatever nation
has dealings with Abyssinia in the future must reckon with
the clerical party. Italy did not make enough use of it; had
she done so, she might have got hold of much better in-
formation and have secured a strong party following in the
country in her favour ; I have no hesitation in saying that
there was a religious sect that also worked against her, who
seem to be only too glad to forward the interests of their
church in every unpatriotic way and do not care what mean»
they use so as to gain their ends; religion is everything tt»
them and country and state nothing.
I have no wish to try and paint the Abyssinian in tocF
glowing characters, and I am quite ready to acknowledges
that many of them are just as bad as other natives in othef
parts of the world, and it is no country for a bad-tempered
man or one who has not been used to natives to travel in*
but it offers no obstacles to an English officer or gentlemar*
¥
AXUM 165
lO knows how to conduct himself. What 1 wish to be
idcrstood U that there arc many highly intelligent people
to be found, and that nearly all the Abyssinians that liavc
travelled admit their inferiority to the European in most
things. The great wonder to me is that, when their modern
titttvy is taken into consideration, they arc not worse than
lie)' are. Many of the better clasfles are willing to Icam
then they have the opportunity, and the lower classes make
ten trader* and good workmen. They are industrious and
hird^wrorking, but, as long as honest labour and a mercantile
life is looked down on by the rulers and princes and the
ogmipt soldiery that support them, there can be no chance
«f the countr>- rising in the social scale. I have every reason
k believe tliat this state of afTairs cannot last much longer.
isiKither priest nor peasant are at present contented, and
fte oiomcnt they know that they arc surrounded by ncigli-
bosrs who have no wish to take away tlieir country, and
■Duld like to sec them well-off and enjoying the fruits of their
Uour, and arc ready to purchase all thetr $urplu.s supplies
fem them, they will most likely act for themselves, and
tnwve the ca\ise of ihctr present mi.'very and wretclicdness.
The soldiery were called into existence by Abyssinia
being surrounded by their Maliomcdan enemies, and little by
liltlc they increased and multiplied till they have got out of all
|KM)ortion to the wants of a peaceful country. To keep these
•oioicrs (luict they cither have to be paid or allowed to loot.
P»>'ing all of Ihcm a wage sufficient to keep them in indolence
iiout of the question, as the finances of tne present king are
^ lai^c enough to allow him to pay the half of his army
^t are under arms ; so looting has to be allowed or expedi-
'""W started into country that never belonged to .Abyssinia.
T^trc must be a limit to this, and the day may not be far
''Ktant when the problem will have to be faced — what is to
bwomc of a lazy, loafing lot of mercenaries who have never
^c anything in their lives except fighting and tooting, men
"ithout homes and without territory ready to fight for those
•*kj give the highest pay, and who do not value the lives of their
JcIW'-Christians at the price of a sheep or a jar of hydromel.
' »ffi writing of the mercenary soldier whose father and grand-
«lhcT, perhaps, were the same, and not of the iMilk of the
"Salting force of the countrj* who are yeomen farmers, and
pieir lervants, or the peasants and their families, and who, as
"Xig a.<t sn Englishman bchavxs himself, will find a hearty
•dcgme from.
)
166 MODERN ABYSSINIA
In the north such a thing as a standing army does not
exist at present The majority of the mercenaries after the
death of King Johannes gradually went over to King Menelek,
as he was the most poweriul and richest man in the country,
and there was more chance of seeing service with him than
anyone else ; and these men when they fought against the
Italians at Adowa did not suffer so much as ^e troops
belonging to the other leaders.
At Axum there are only a few soldiers kept, enough to
keep order in the immediate neighbourhood ; as the sacred
nature of the place prevents it being looted or disturbances
taking place in its immediate vicinity, so they are not required.
The northern fighting men live on their own land, and are
tillers of the soil ; they nearly all have modem breech-loaders
and plenty of cartridges, and they are mustered very speedily,
should occasion offer. In the chapter on Adowa I give a
description of the assembling of a force got together when
Ras Aloula was helping Kas Mangesha to put down Ras
Sebat's rebellion in Agamie.
I enjoyed my various visits to Axum immensely, and
I regret that circumstances over which I had no control
did not allow me to return to this interesting town and
complete the researches I commenced. Nothing would give
me greater pleasure than to revisit it, and I live in hopes
that 1 may accomplish it some day in the immediate future;
Ras Aloula and the Itchage Theophilus are both dead, but I
have still others that I can count as friends living in the town.
DOWA for many years was by far the most important
commerdal town of Abyssinia, and it ust-d to be
sited by many merchants from all parts of Abyssinia, who
•St exchanged the natural products of the country for
eoods from beyond the seas. Its weekly market was then
urgcty attend^], and natives from all parts of the Soudan
and Arabia were constantly seen in the town. Salt bars, the
common currency of other parts of Abyssinia, were little used,
ftnd transactions used to take place tn Maria Theresa dollars
eotaed in Austria or by barter. The cattlc-markct before the
rinderpest and horsc-discasc broke out was a vcr>- large one,
md horses, mules, cows and oxen were brought for sale in
bfge numbers, and used to be remarkably cheap compared
to the prices paid at present. Adowa is only seventeen
nilcs by road from Axum, and the residents of that town
wld more of tlicir produce at Adowa than in their local
nuHtet
The climate here is a very good one, as the town stands
* M altitude of 6500 feet above the .•eca-lcvcl, and it is never
fiohat or too cold. It is sheltered from the south, cast and
"(Xlh by high ranges of mountains, which break the force of
•^eMcak winds that are so prevalent at many other Abyssinian
't*n» of about the same altitude. The environs of Adowa arc
•""Jst fertile, and in the height of its commercial prosix-rity
"•(whole of tlie valleys and the lower slopes of the mountains
*^rc one vast grain field, and not only Adowa, but the sur-
rounding vill.'^cs carried a very large, contented and prosper-
**» population. The neighbouring mountains are still welh
^°odcd. The numerous springs, brooks and small rivers
pVe an ample supply of good wiiler for domestic and irriga-
. On purposes, ajjd the water meadows always produce an
?Jexhaustib!c supply of good gra.*.-* the whole year round.
^o wonder, therefore, it was a favourite place and prospered,
^'id it is to be hoped that, as there is now peace in the land,
-7
168 MODERN ABYSSINIA
its population will again increase, and that it will not be
long before it regains its old importance.
The best view of Adowa is to be obtained from the hill
on which are situated the old ruins of the Jesuit town oi
Fremona, which is situated to the north-west and about two
and a half miles ofT. Two miles further off to the north it
the monastic settlement of Adi Aboona, the property of the
Aboona or chief of the Abyssinian Church. Although Adi
Aboona is on slightly higher ground than Adowa, a good
view of it is not to be got owing to an out-jutting spur from
Mount Selado, which ends just vis-d-vis to Fremona. From
the latter the whole panorama of the town is spread out
before one, and to me when looking at it for the first time
after an absence of twelve years 1 could hardly believe that
the heap of ruins and the nearly deserted houses was the
same place that I had spent so many pleasant days in.
With the exception of the five churches of Our Saviour, the
Trinity, the Virgin Mary, Saint Michael and Saint George
and some few large houses, the place seemed to be a mass of
ruins and broken-down enclosures.
I had come from Axum by the direct road, and on my
way the villages, the nearer one got to Adowa, showed what
the country had gone through, as the majority of the houses
were unroofed and in a tumble-down condition. Skulls of
men and bones of animals were frequent, victims of the
famine and plague, and every yard from Fremona towards
once happy Adowa presented some fresh horror. The remains
of an English camp is never a very cheerful sight, but that of
an Abyssinian camp is still less; and here were the remains
of unburied humanity, dirt, filth and corruption at every step^
and, although there had been heavy rains which had washed
away part of the fragments, and the grass was growing
luxuriantly, still a sickly smelt of decaying flesh pervaded the
atmosphere, and every few yards I had to put my handker-
chief to my nose and go on as fast as possible. I asked
Schimper if he called it healthy and a fit place to come to,
and he replied, "Oh, this is nothing to what is was ten days
ago ; it was not sweet then." Nearing the east end of
the town the ground was not so bad, and at the market-
place it was clean enough, and there was nothing much to
grumble about ; but still there was a sort of an unhealthy
fceling, and my spirits were down at seeing the ruins, the
misery and the alteration in everything. 1 looked in vain for
the fairly good houses and the enclosures with their nice
ADOWA AND ABBIADDI
169
trees ihat used to exist at the west end of the market*
_^ rn. Ras Aloula's fine large establishment, that formerly
covered the ietlge of ground above the market, was in
nnns, the bare walls and blackened timbers atone marte-
ns tfae spot where once used to be a well-ordered household.
Abo, OS if man had not done enough miNchief to the place,
nature bad also her turn, and a large part of the market-
green had disappeared into tlie Assam river, great falls of
earth and rock ha\'tng taken place and quite altered the
aipect of the river at the ford and the steep road out of the
bu of the river to the top of the bank.
I made my way to the house of old Ledj Mcrtcha, King
Johaones' late envoy to England, where I had been invited
to stay. The old man was away at Cairo seeing Lord Cromer
oo business concerning his new and less powerful master Kas
Mangesha, and 1 received a hearty welcome from his wife,
a venerable and most stately old dame whom I had known
before. Time liad dealt lightly with her. and she was still
tic cheerful and hospitable old parly as formerly, despite
tlic miseries and troubles she had passeil through, her home
bsviog been sacked by the Italian native troops when General
Bnatieri paid his first visit to Adowa, and instead of the
granahcs being full and the cattle-yard with many occupants,
tile oiw was nearly empty and the other reduced to three
pkM^hiog bullocks and two heifers, with no sheep and only
o«e milch goat that only gave enough milk for the youngest
Cicat niece. 1 soon made myself at home, and shortly after
av arrival I had enough to do in welcoming old friends who
( bad met before on my fonner visits to Adowa or in other
puts of the North. Hardly one of tliem came empty handed,
um] the larder was soon full — fish, flesh and fowl, eggs and
bixad, boncy and cakes, hydromel and beer. These presents
■etc not made with any intention of getting anything in
wtxtn, but out of pure fricndsliip, and although there are
■My of the Abyssinians that will bring a perfect stranger a
ptsent to get something larger or more valuable in exchange,
t a not the same with all, and it may be compared to leaving
Bids on a new comer in country society in England more
I^Un anything else. I have given a full account of t^j
lleitcha'^ house elsewhere and 1 was very comfortable tn it
Owon as I got rid of most of the insects, which liisappcarcd
*fttt a plentiful use of " Keating."
Uy nnt visit next morning was to tlie officials of the Holy
Tfiaity Church who had kindly sent me food and a couple M
170 MODERN ABYSSINIA
sheep soon after my arrival. The two head men who act ai
magistrates of the town, and among other duties administer
the whole of the church lands in Adowa and its neighbour-
hood, feed the priests and are responsible for the funds and
money offerings, bear the titles of Melaka Berhanet (Angd
of Light) Fisaha ZeoR and Aleka (Chief) Gabra Selanie
(servant of the Trinity). In all small judgments and chuidi
disputes regarding money their decision is final, but in civil
cases an appeal can be made first to Ras Aloula, and if the
diroutants are then not satisfied, to Ras Mangesha the prince
of Tigr6. I was very well received by them, and during my
stay at Adowa I had very many opportunities of conversii^
wiUi them on the state of the country and what had taken
place, and I can thoroughly appreciate the hardships they had
all gone through and their wretched position compared to
1884 when King Johannes was undisputed master of die whole
country and treated the people with some consideration.
The churches at Adowa are larger than diose usually
found in the majority of the Abyssinian towns, and that m
the Holy Trinity is the largest one that I have seen in the
country covering a very lai|;e area. The enclosing wall is
also well built of nearly twelve feet in height, and the length
of the rectangular space is about two hundred and fifty yards
by about one hundred and twenty. The doors that give
entrance to the enclosure are very large, and nearly always
kept closed so as to enable people on foot to enter ; there
are small postern gates of about four feet in height and
about two feet and a half higher than the road, so as to
prevent stray beasts from entering and also to prevent
mounted people from making a high road of the churchyaid
when going to and fro to the cast and west of the town. I
shall only give a short description of one of the churches;
as those of the Virgin Mary, Saint Michael and St George
are not nearly so old nor so curious and well decorated. I
had visited the church of the Holy Trinity before and
described it in my book" 1883 to 1887 In the Soudan " and I
found it unchanged, and I am glad to say not as I was ted to
believe by the late Mr Bent with a tin roof made out of old
Kcrosine oil tins. It must have been while he was there
under a state of repair as it is now again well thatched with
straw, with its top for about ten feet made with copper sheets
the same as used for putting on the bottom of wooden ships,
and the summit crowned with a well-made eight pointed
iron cross.
ADOWA AND ABBI-ADDI
171
The paintings on the inner circular wall arc still in a f;ood
state of preservation, and I was still amused at the subjects
»yed, Abyssinian art is entirely of the Byzantine or
order, and the colours always most gaudy, and the
ling primitive in the extreme. Good men are always
aicted wilh a full face, those of wicked peojile in profile.
Jci church subjects from the New Testament and pictures
ir Saviour, the Cnicifixion, the Virgin Mary and different
It*, including Saint George and the Dragon, and Saint
»el, battle scenes are very common ; the defeat of the
^■ptians being a most popular one, and always greatly
idmircd. The devil is always another subject that the
painters arc very fond of, and he offers a RTcat field for their
»wy lively imaRination : Me has horns, tail and cloven hoof
the same as in the illustrated Ingoldsby Legends ; so in rcali^
be may have these awkward additions to his person. There
b ooc really good picture of him carrying away a very pretty
Efrt, which if in England, would find it^ way to the police
K; for a magistrate's ojiinJon wliether it was high art or
xnt I am afraid that it would come under the latter
if^, although the arti^ only intended that it should read
a moral lesson.
The battle scenes are well worth reproduction, as giving a
Twy good idea of the manoeuvres in use by the Abyssinians
against their enemies, tlie phaL^nx, cavalry charge, mounted
frfanti>- in action, skinnishing hand-to-hand fighting arc all
Rven, and not one dead belonging to their own men, but
heaps of the enemy : evidently Mr Kruger's accounts of his
b^tles against his enemies arc of the same sort. The artillery
>«hkb is used by the enemies of the Abyssinians is not of a
very effective description, as all the shells are seen flying a
lodgwayoverlicad.andfarin the rear of the advancing troops.
Bjr seeing these pictures, the young Abyssinian is taught to
believe that a fight against an invader is not such a dangerous
uadcrtalcing, that the shells do not burst and only make a
noise, and that no Abyssinian is harmed, and that many of
their enemy arc slain, and that the easiest way of procuring
a riBe and cartridges, the height of every small Abyssinians"
unbitiun, is to engage in warifare against a foreigner.
^^ Within this church are aUo stored the trophies taken from
^M the Egyptians, flags, drums, bugles, and other things. The
^^ Abyitsinian drums and long trumpets, and the lai^c pro-
cessiooa) crosses used during the religious festivals, arc also
Itepi between the outer and inner walls, and the church is
172
MODERN ABYSSINIA
more like a picture gallery and a museum of military trophies
tlian a sacred edifice.
There is in Cbc inner courtyard which surrounds the
church, a targe belfry which contains several large bells
nearly all of recent construction, the largest being made tn
1881 on the Continent, and in one comer of the courtyard
there is a very old tree, from its branches hang sc^i-eral large
flatstones which when stnick by a piece of hard and thick
wood, give out a metallic sound that can be heard at a g'*^''
distance. These stones take tlie place of bells in nearly alt
the Abyssinian churche:f,difrerent notes are got from different
sited stones, tlie deep tones from the thicker stones, and the
small thin ones only giving a low clear note.
The churchyard was very foul-smelling, owing to the
number of Abysainians that had been buried there after the
battle of Adowa ; the bodies had only a slight covering of
earth over them, and many of the extremities were protnidiiq^
while in one of the deserted gate-houses several corpses re-
mained without any attempt at intennent Under a common
white cloth soldier's tent, were tlie graves of Kene/match
Abcina and Kenezmatch Tafessa. belonging to King Mene lek's
army, who were killed when attacking General Arimondi's
division ; before I finally left Adowa the tent was blown
down during a great storm and no one put it up again, so
their last resting place would soon be lost
The day after my arrival at Adowa, 1 made the first of
my many visits to the battleficldi perhaps the most di.<uigrcc-
able task 1 ever had to perform in my lift.-, one position biring
more foul smelling and di^futting than another. A burying
party of Italian engineers had been allowed by Ilie Abyuinians
to come and inter the dead, but the condition of the corpses
prevented them from being moved, and a few loo.te stonea
were their only covering which, instead of facilitating decom-
position, only retarded it; not half of the bodies had been
attended to, and in some places, putrescent masses held
togctlicr by ragged clothes marked the details of the fight
Not a single body of the Mahommcdan Gallas had been
touched, and the carcases of their horses and mules were
thickly strewn around the different Italian positions. I used
to be sick half-a-doxen times in the day, and 1 used to loathe
my work, and my faithful Hadgi Ali, and my Abysxintan
guides used to tie their clotlis round their nostrils and mouthl
and ask me if I had not seen enougll.
Bird and animal life was absent, they even could not Cue
ADOWA AND ABBI-ADDI
173
ttc horrible Golgotha, and the hyenas had long ago left the
tibtnct to procure something more templing than what the
hattteGeld offered them. ! have given a full de^tcription of
tte battle elsewhere, so will leave this gruesome sight, its
recollections will ever remain as if scared in my memory with
i hot iron, and the details as I write arc as vivid to me as it
I was again on the spot. There are some things in one's life
that never can l>c forgotten, and this is one of them that 1
ifaall carry with me as long as I live, and shudder when I
think of the thousands of white, black and brown men that
lay [lotted about this lovely coiintr>', lli.-it gave up their lives
to gratify an electioneering i>olicy in a far^ff land. It is no
wonder when one thinks of the misery entailed that the
African policy of Italy has so far been unpo]>uIar ; tlicy have
had a bitter lesson, and I admire tlicm greatly for sticking to
Aar colony, closing the page which was nearly full and
turning over a new leaf on which a permanent success has
nearly been written and a bright future is before them, and
they no doubt will reap a good harvest in the immediate
future.
Wandering about Adowa was a sad business, and many
of the streets were entirely deserted, the Mahomedan cjuarter
iirti tenantless and the houses with the excei>lion of two or
rec were unroofed and in ruins. The neat gardens were
ic and choked up with rank weeds and vegetation, many of
ic trccA had been cut down for firewood, but here and there
were 9omt giant with too thick a stem to be easily broken up,
« little lihade remained and an idea eould be formed of what
a plcainnt place it uiied to be. The fruit trees were nearly
all broken down except in the garden belonging to Ras
Hangeitha, and every conceivable wanton mischief had been
perpetrated.
On turning to my notes I Rnd that Adowa was first
lootixl and partly burnt by Dcdjatch Mag Ambessa (which
nwftns the remnant of a lion) of Adtcclcsan of the tiamascn,
■ noted bod character. He was sent to Adowa in December
by, General Baldissera on his lir^t command in I->ithrea.
stole many things out of the churches that had been
there for safety, the most heinous offence in the eyes
the Abyuinians, and he acted entirely agatast the orders
the General who sent him. General Orcro succeeded
nl Baldissera in January 1890 and immediately marched
en Adowa which he did no harm to, and arrested Dedjatcb
Ambessa who was imprisoned at the Italian penal
^
174 MODERN ABYSSINIA
settlement of Assab for his cruelties. It was again plundered
in 1S94 by the native troops under General ^ratieri, which
seemed to have been a wanton bit of cruelty and a very
unjustifiable act, as the whole of the male population had
gone to meet the General to welcome him and give in their
allegiance, and it was done in their absence when they could
not defend their property. It was af^er the looting of Adowa
that Ras Mangesha made his forward movement against the
Italian colony, and ended up in his defeat at the battles of
Coatit and Senafe in January 1895.
Instead of King Menelck's troops treating Adowa as a
friendly town, they did every possible mischief they possibly
could to it, only sparing the churches and unroonng the
houses and breaking up the doors and windows for firewood,
being too lazy to go and fetch wood from the surroundine
hills. The people of Adowa and its environs, always disliked
the Amharans and southern Abyssinians, and after the battle
of Adowa they had still greater cause for their aversion, and
King Menelek and his followers are now more unpopular
than ever with the whole of the north.
The towns-people were always noted for being a civilised
and industrious race, and in 1884 a good deal oif work was
done there and the town could boast of good mason^
carpenters, blacksmiths, weavers of cloth, jewellers, saddlers
and other workmen. The women were also industrious and
their embroidery was amongst the best in Abyssinia, their
mats and grass work were also noted. I tried to get
specimens of the things made in Adowa, and I found that
nearly all the population had fled or migrated to more
settled districts, and even the weekly Saturday market, where
everything could formerly be purchased, and where thousands
of people used to congregate from all parts, was now only
visited by a few hundred with the most meagre supplies.
Stay at home people little know what a nearly ruined country
means, and what a sad sight it is and the peculiar hunt^
look the poor people have, as if they were wondering what
the next calamity would be that was to overtake them.
A few days after my arrival at Adowa J received a letter
from Ras Mangesha inviting me to visit him at Abbi Addi, and
to the marriage of his daughter to 'the son of Ras Hagos
the Governor of the province of Tembien, of which he is
hereditary prince, the title havit^ belonged to his family for
many centuries. I was very pleased to get away from Adowa
on account of its unsanitary state, and although it was the
ADOWA AND ABBI-ADDi
175
lit of the rainy season the lOth of July when I left, and
rivers might be troubtesofne and difficult to cross, I had
hesitation in undertaking the journey. Ras Aloula had
ven orders that I was to be provided with an escort if I
iB)uircd one, but 1 \-cr>- much prefer travelling without, as
■ore can be seen of the country and the peasants are less
■Bpidous and more friendly. I took a man furnished me by
tie "Angel of Light" as a guide, and I doubt ver>- much if
he had ever travelled with mules fairly heavily laden, as he
lal mc due south over the mountain at the bock of Adowa
ud down a nearly perpendicular cliff into the valley of the
Fairas Mai river, the mules bad to be unladen several times
ud the bagKagc let down with ropes and then a^ain laden
fef a short distance and the operation repeated. The Farras
Hii valley is of lai^ size and divides the high Chelunko
listrict from Adowa. Chelunko is a series of high plateaux
ud small val!ey.i which used fonnerly to be one lai^e area
<f cultivation, but what with the rinderpest, famine, cholera
asd the depredations of the Italian troops when they
Mtonpted to conquer Tigrt^ and again by Menelek's troops
*hile at Adowa and on thdr return south, the whole day's
■arch was through rained and blackened villages.
We had our usual rain and thunderstorm which drenched
n^and the servants sat up all night under the flaps of my
tent, and 1 was glad when morning broke clear and bright
"iiicb enabled us to get away early for our tr>'ing march
KKss the uninhabited country and tJie feverish Werri river to
Sibondas where our camping place was to be. This district
lua a very bad name, as anyone who is discontented with
^ k)ca] ruler waylays the merchants and villagers from a
■btance on their way to market, and robs tltcm of their
|Mds so as to bring the governor of the province into dispute;
n^ do not touch their neighbours or levy black mail on
■ tttm, as they would at once be caught, but those from other
lAistticts suffer, and as these robbers always disguise tbcm-
Pfctres by daubing tlicir faces over with white or red mud,
' licjraie not easily recognised when they have a clean face.
Tic tiansfonnation is of course the work of a moment, as the
^ puddle serves cither to put on tlie disguise or wash it off
tiin, and I came across three men cleaning themselves wlio
*vt talking to some people on their way to market, who
they had evidently mistaken at a distance for strangers.
There is nothing to be ashamed of in turning robber for the
tiiiK, but it is a peculiar way of bringing their grievances
116 MODERN ABYSSINIA
before the authorities, and it would not do in a more civilised
country. I have never heard of Europeans being hurt, but
Greeks and Armenians have suffered, chiefly for the reason
Uiat they have been dressed like Abyssinians, and there Is
very little difference in colour between a dirty Greek and
an Abyssinian.
The descent down from the Chelunko heights to the hot
wind protected Werri valley is very trying, and the jungle was
full of horse flies and seroot flies that nearly drove the transport
mules frantic. We passed a lot of merchants with transpcMt
animals and bullocks, and all those that had white hides were
simply covered with blood marks, and the poor beasts were
suffering terribly. I looked at my mule when I dismounted
at the banks of the river, and her stomach was one mass
of red and covered with flies. The river is only about 40
yards broad, and the valley about 400 yards across and
studded with little islands as, when the river is in full flood,
it nearly fills the bottom of the valley in places ; it is a most
dangerous river in the rainy season as the spates come down
in quick succession and in five minutes, where the water was
only about three feet deep, it may rise to seven or more and in
half an hour rise to ten feet The upper catchment of this
river is fairly lai^e, and its outlet narrow with very steep
sides, so the very tropical rains which will measure several
inches in a few hours, make the rise and fait very rapid.
The morning flood marks showed the river was impassable
at an early hour, but at the time we arrived it was very Uttte
above its ordinary level, and we got over the three crossings
caused by the river's winding course in safety. Not only
has this valley got a bad name for robbers and fevers, but
also during the heavy rains for crocodiles and lions ; the
latter arc driven up from the low country by the rains and
the former come up from the Tacazze to breed and lay their
e^s and some few of them remain in the deep pools the
whole year round.
It was lucky we crossed in time as a thunderstorm was
going on to the east when we began rising to the Sabandas
ridge which would soon make the river again impassable. It
was very unfortunate that both my aneroid and thermometer
had been broken as I should have liked to have taken tbe
height of the Sabandas pass where it crosses the ridge^ and
the highest peak immediately above the pass must have
been a good 800 feet higher and over 10,000 feet in altitude.
The wind was bitter cold, and the difference between the
ADOWA AND ABBI-ADDl
177
iperaturc at the river, which was a moiiit tropica! heat,
and this wind-swept proup of mountains was very great.
At the lower level I had to unbutton my karki coat, and at
the ridge, where 1 remained for lunch in a grove of ahumac
trees, I had to put on my thick ulster coat and was not a
bit too warm. These shuniac trees were the first I had seen
in Abyssinii^ and the vegetation around was nearly Alpine
in its character. The country was full of small game, and
m saw klipspriiigcr, oribi and duiker, antelopes and ktidoo
are reported to be far from common. The thunderttorm
that had been travelling from the cast, here overtook us, and
k conunetKcd with a violent hail storm, with some of the
flooes as large as hazel nuts; it then snowed for a short
doe and then turned into sleet and rain of the very wettest
wrt, and, in an hour's time, it passed away and the sun came
ool brightly; this was partlailarly welcome, as we were all
drenched to the skin and my ulster thoroughly saturated.
The view looking southwards from the ridge was most
farely, and the further the storm went westwards the more
the lan<Ucape came into view. There was a glorious pano-
rama of mountains to the cast and north with a glimpse of
the country to the west of Axum and the Tacazzc valley,
aid the mountains in tlic province of Schirc. South, our
liew was blocked by the ridge, and to the east south-east a
sKnpse of the Gheralta rai^e could be obtained, and the
UU in the vicinity of the natural fortress and state prison
tf Amba Salama where so many famous Abyssinian [wtttical
prinncrs have spent their last days on earth. The town of
Sobandas is another of these curious, bold, upstanding, red,
4odatone upheavals for which Ab)'ssinia is renowned. After
dinbing up from the Wcrri river the country becomes nearly
Ottircly composed of red sandstone mixed with grey and
ytflow schistose rock and lines of quartz, and what with the
*iiidgrecnsofthe cultivation and all the trees being in full leaf,
the landscape is a charmingly bright and variously coloured
"He, and the whole scenery is very grand and magnificent.
The top of Sabandas mountain is quite flat, and it has
* church and several groups of houses on its summit that
fn only be reached by one narrow path which could be
Wly defended by a few men against a very large force.
There is ik> summit within miles that is higher, and even its
lower leches are not topped by anything nearer than about
•bee miles. Curiously cnou;::h, on the very top of this
mountain is a spring of beautiful clear water which gives an
178 MODERN ABYSSINIA
unfailing supply the whole year round, and the fdace where
it descends to the next ledge is marked by what looks at a
distance to be a smudge of green on the surface of the red
rock. The mountain is defended naturally, and no humaa
aid has been given to add to its defences, and the sides are
scarped as if by some clever engineer. About one hundred
and fifty feet below the summit is another ledge with two
broad extremities on which houses have been built, another
two to three hundred feet below is a larger lidge which has
also been built on, and then the land gradually slopes
towards the plain, three more villages nestling amongst the
trees on the banks of two watercourses with perpendicular
sides towards the mountain which join in front of the
village ; the triangular piece of ground, formed by the base
of the mountain and the two streams, is terraced and wdl-
cultivated, and the whole position could easily be defended
by a few against a large force, and as the inhabitants keep
their stocks of grain on the mountain, which can also
be cultivated in parts, they could hold out long^ than a
blockading force that would have to brii^ their supplies from
a distance.
It was a horribly cold night and everything was damp
and clammy and it rained nearly the whole night and again
we had a fine morning with a warm sun, and all hands set
to work drying things, the bushes being covered with our
wet clothes. Schimper here caught me up, he having been
detained five hours at the Werri before he could cross j we
then proceeded on our way to Abbi Addi and arrived there
just as a terrific thunderstorm broke, and we took refuge in
one of the numerous lai^e sandstone caves that are hollowed
out by the decomposition of centuries of the softer stone,
and which offer shelter to the numerous flocks of sheep and
goats which graze round the town. These caves are not
used as habitations, but they could soon be made fit to live
in ; they are nearly all semi-circular in form, and_ run ba^
from ten to as much as fifty feet in the interior of the
mountain, and are of all heights, from a few feet to as much
as thirty or forty feet They only want the face closing to
make good cattle-sheds or store-houses. As they are quite
close to the market, in very wet weather the people use them
for camping in when selling their goods.
Abbi Addi is a most lovely situated town and nuMt
picturesque, and I enjoyed my stay there in spite of the
terrific thnnderstorms which occurred daily, and which rather
ADOWA AND ABBI-ABDl
179
ftilt Uie festivities. However, we hati a very fine day fiw
Be vredding, and the sight was a very curioiLi one, and it is
not often that a European has the chance ot seeing one of
He same grandeur. The town is built on an oval plateau
ar of the mountains and has only three roads by which it
be approached from the low ground and by one road
Ffrom the high mountain above. Tlicy arc all very narrow
ind can caiiity be defended, and it has been the head quarters
of the rulers of Tembien since the earliest ages of Abyssinian
history ; the plateau is about three quarters of a mile ia
brtadth by about six hundred yards in depth, and on it are
foind the church and the residences of the Ras and the
upper classes. The rest of the population live on the lower
diAs in the plateau, and the houses nestle thickly on the
tree-covered lower slopes and amongst the giant boulders
that have fallen away from the mountain. Here the market,
which is held weekly, is placed on a scries of small grass
plots also broken up by large boulders which are made use
of by the frequenters as protection against the rain and sun.
The chief things sold in the market are coffee, red pepper,
luge quantities of butter and honey, the district being famous
forthe quantity of bees. It also does a large trade with the
louth, especially with Socota, and it is also on the main
nad from Adowa and Axum to the southern portions of
Abyssinia.
We pitched camp at the foot of the plateau, as it was im-
posdblc to get the mules to the top with a load on dther
side of them, and immediately the ratn was over I went up
to Has Hagos':* house to pay my respects to Ras Mangcsha
■ho was stopping with him. Ras Mangesha is the exact
Iftencss of what his father King Johannes used to be in his
TVoRger days, and there can be no disputing the parentage.
He lus the same nervous look and peculiar restless eyes,
•liich are never still and always watching everything that
nees. He has the same reputation as his father, namely
teg m good director of trijops on the battlefield and ever
"tidy to make use of any blunder made in the manreuvres of
Wi adversary. His profile is decidedly a pleasing one, and
^ tbc true Abys.-<inian type, and his full face would also be
oiled good looking, but there Is a want of firmness about
the mouth, and the set on of the chrn lacks that look of
•Irtcrmination which was so notable in Ras Aloula's face,
•ad those of true leaders of men. 1 was received most kindly
l*d welcomed to his country, and was told that 1 was to
180 MODERN ABYSSINIA
consider myself as his guest while in the north, and was after
the usual bottle or brilla as it is called, of tedj, told I could
go, and that he wanted to have a long talk to me to-morrow.
On my arrival at camp, I found that a present of food had
arrived for me, two sheep, several horns of tedj, some 300
breads of all sorts, chickens, egga, honey, chutney, barley for
my mules, and a lai^e bunch of splendid bananas, a great
treat, as farther north the trees had all been destroyed,
slashed in half by the Galla soldiers.
The next morning Lieutenant Mulazzani arrived from
Adi Qualla with presents from the Italian Government for
Ras Mangesha and his wife, the niece of Queen Taiton,
and the daughter of Ras Woly the governor of the Yejju
province, and part of Lasta ; there ought to have been a
grand marriage on this occasion, but the ceremony took
place in a hurry semi-privately for political reasons, the
bridegroom not being particularly willing, as he was made
to divorce his former wife whom he was very fond of Both
Mulazzani and I were agreed that it showed, not only want
of character, but how entirely Ras Mangesha feared the
king, and what little hold he had over Tigr^. Abyssinian
provinces and the kingdom are held, if need be, by the
sword alone, and from what I could hear of the present ruler
of Tigr^, he was not the man to keep his kingdom together,
either by the sword because he was feared, or by clemency
because he was loved by all. His double dealings with the
Italians made him distrusted, and his appeals as being King
Johannes's son and successor nominated on his death bed,
had no weight with English officials, unless he was capable
of carving his way to the throne with his sword, the same as
his father had done.
My meeting with the Ras the next morning came off",
and I was put in a very awkward position, as he asked me
to take chaige of letters for him for the English Govern-
ment, which I utterly declined to do at the time, as 1 had
nothing to do with them, and 1 informed him that my
business was to find out for the " Manchester Guardian "
newspaper all about Abyssinia, King Menelek and the
people, and until I did so I was not a free agent, and then
it would not be possible to say anything to the Government
except to answer any questions put to me. I was told that
as the festivities were about to commence, that he would
postpone talking further to me on business, till I should
visit him at Macalle after the return of Ledg Mertcha from
ADOWA AND AUBI-ADDl
181
M
airo with an answer from I-Ord Cromer. I had also a long
and interesting conversation regardiitg tlic- bnttlc of Adowa
and the part he took Jn it, and having been over the field, I
could follow his movements and those of his troops most
clearly ; they must have had a trying time of it, as many of
them did not \ict back till the next day. Many of them
obtained their loot in the shape of rifles and cartridges, and
personal property bclotijjinfi to the Italians, and went back
to their villager without returning to Adowa, so that they
could defend their property against the Southern army on
tlicir way home, and aiao to give them tlie opportunity of
putting their grain and more valuable efTccis into a place of
safety, before the marcli south of King Menelek's troops
commenced. 'Die Kas had no idea of his total loss which
was very heavy, and I had seen many wounded Abyssinians
already in TignJ, that were certain to die of their injuries. I
was always being bothered to look at wounds which would
not heal, they all had some foreign substance in them, many
loo deeply seated to remove without an operation, and on
two occasions 1 pulled out a bit of cloth, and a small bit of
leatlier. I g:ive away quantities of bottles of carbolic oil
uid carbolic lotion, and yards of lint and cotton for dress-
ing*. The moment the wounds got cleaned they soon closed,
ks the Aby^inian witli few exceptions (syphilitic subjects of
Course excepted) heal rapidly. The loss in the different
%hts against the Italians by tlie northern [wpulation was
very great, and never will be known, and I do not think
there is a hamlet, that has not lost one or more rcprc-
scnlativca. With a warlike population like the Abyssinians,
this is not so much thought of as among the low country
Mabomcdans, who always seek revenge for the loss of one
if their family, and it makes them more dangerous for
uroficans to deal with afterwards when peace is made, as
ith some tribes of the low countries blood feuds will last
'or a long time. The Abyssinians are not revengeful and
will take a thrashing, and then acknowledge their master
and think none the worse of him, but they hate being
ridiculed and are then always sulky and not to be depended
upon.
The marriage festival was held in the bouse and large
courtxard belonging to Ras Hagos and was a very grand
entcrtaimnent, people coming for miles to see it, and many
thousands of natives were present The women of Abbi
Addi had been preparing food for several days before, and
db
182 MODERN ABYSSINIA
processions of women bearing food and jars of tedj were
passing our camp (which we hid removed to the plateau) for
a couple of days before the feast MuIIazani and I, dr^sed
in our best clothes, arrived at the house about half-past ten
and were received at the gate by a guard of soldiers. We
were conducted through the courtyard which was turned into
a large bower by being covered in with branches of trees and
new red and white shammas and there was hardly movii^
room, the place was so crowded. The guests made the usual
remarks about us, and considering Mulazzani was dressed in
his Italian uniform and peace had not been rattiied they made
no bad allusions to him, which I thought very civil. I
particularly asked my two interpreters to be very careful to
translate all the remarks made, and they did not hear one
word that could not be repeated or that would have givea
offence to any Italian. I being much the taller of the two
was recognised as the InglesJ, and I was patted on the bade
and called " bono Johnny," a word they have not forgotten
since the 1868 expedition.
We then entered the big rectangular room in which the
Rases and head man were waiting to receive us on a raised
platform and we after shaking hands were given chairs in the
post of honour next to Ras Mangesha. Imisic, singing and
dancing of the usual Abyssinian description then commenced
while the feast was being got ready, and hydromel in glass
bottles was handed round, the tedj bearer always pouring
out a little of the liquid into the palm of his hand and drink-
ing it to show it was not poisoned. These brillas are nearly
all made in Austria of colored glass and are like a small wine
decanter without a stopper and hold about a pint Their
necks are very small and they take a long time to fill. When
once they are handed to the guest he takes a sip and then
places the thumb over the neck of the bottle to keep out the
flies that are always very numerous on these occasions. The
beauty of drinking out of a brilla is that it need not be done
in a hurry and one can be made to last a long time, and per-
haps an Abyssinian will drink four or five full while a
European is getting through one. The tedj has different
effects on different natures. To one it may be an intoxicant
to another it has only a soporific effect, and it depends greatly
on the quantity of geshu plant used to bring on fermentation.
A table was placed for us on the platform, and, after
washing our hands in the same style as the Turks and Arabs
do, we were supplied with plates, knives and forks, but no
ADOWA AND ABIU-ADDI
183
■poem, the Ulin tef breads being used instead. A basket of
Hie best white tef was given iis and the feast commenced
•itli raw beef, tlie fniiiou^ " brundo " as it is called. We saw
ibe living animals for the rea.tt in the courtyard when we
entered not an hour before, and here were lumps of them
bong brought in in baskets warm but not quivering. The
bert parts arc the loin and beef steaks, the fillets which arc
Ifce teodcrest arc kept for the old and nearly toothless men and
the women, not beinfi considered warrior's meat. Whenever
I go to an Abyssinian feast 1 always take another stomach
■ith me in the shape of one of my servants, who squats down
behind my chair, and,t pass him all the wild beast's food and
things I cannot eat. To refuse the offer of raw meat is not
polite, so it has to be received but need not be eaten. I am
so accustomed to see raw meat eaten that I do not mind it,
but 1 well remember the first time I saw the bluish red lump
of smoking meat (it was a very cold day) brought me that I
felt far from well. I had seen years ;^o in the Soudan
hungry Hadendowics cut open a gazelle that was gasping
eut Its last breath, and take out the liver, heart and kidneys,
aod break the pall bag over ail and swallow its wann etceteras,
but I had not to do it myself. These half savage Moslem
plain men cook their meat, and these half civilized Christians
take off the sharp edge of their appetite with raw before
tbey begin on other things ; the only thing they eat with
raw meat is the hottest red pepper, a good big table spoon-
ful being an orditi,iry accompaniment, so the pepper may
belp to cook the meat when it gets inside. The large bit
of meat is held in tlie left hand, it is then placed to
the mouth and a bit taken between the teeth which is then
cut off by a small sharp knife. As I did not cat brundo and
I was very hungry, I sent my servant out to bring me a piece
of fillet of beef roasted over the embers, and in a few minutes
he returned with a delicious tender bit which Mulaitzani and
I eagerly devoured ; we then had devilled bones red with
clulli, which we had to scrape off, and it was even then too
hot to be enjoyable, stews of chickens and kid with chutney
made out of red pepper, pea-Hour, onions and fresh butter,
not at all a bad dish, and then stewed trongies or shaddocks
with honey and bananas, and the whole was washed down
with many brillas of tedj. The cloth was then removed,
not from the table, as it had none, but from around the
ptatfonn. The aristocracy arc always protected from the
«U eye, their invited guests are not supposed to have any-
184 MODERN ABYSSINIA
thing so rude and as many as twenty of us were thus screened
off.
The bridegroom was about seventeen years old, and, as
his father was present at the feast, etiquette prevented him
from sitting down with us, and he had his m^ in a private
apartment at the back. Glasses of native spirit were passed
round, also champi^ne, brandy and sundry European liqueurs,
and we sat and watched the smaller fry being fed ; they came
into the room according to military rank and sat down in
companies of about six, the higher officers nearest the plat-
form and so in order down the room, the discipline was
perfect, everyone knew his place and there was no crowding
and pushing, a well behaved and orderly crowd, their be-
haviour might well be copied by people in England when
they attend some large entertainment 1 am afraid that a
great many of our upper classes are a pushing lot, and these
uncivilised Abyssinians would go so far as to call them rude
and bad mannered.
A basket with a large pile of brown breads or angera, as
they are called in Tigr£, was placed before each group, and
two of them were taken off the pile to serve as plates for
the red pepper which was poured out of a laige cow horn,
and for the chutney which was taken out of a laige jar with
the hand, hands having been made before spoons, then large
lumps of raw meat were brought in and given to the men
and the dinner commenced. Knives, daggers and swords
were used to cut up the meat and tedj servers presented
each guest with a brilla, and as soon as they were empty
others were brought ; so the feast went on, relays of guests
taking the places of those that were finished.
Mulazzani and I were both asked to smoke, but we pre-
ferred indulging in our cigarettes outside and seeii^ what
was going on in the courtyard and smoking there, so we
could offend no one. The cows had all been killed, and
some thirty hides and pools of blood marked the place
where the animals had fallen and been cut up; the dogs
were quarrelling over the entrails, and as soon as the hides
were removed and the blood sprinkled over with earth, not
a trace of the victims of the feast would be left The people
seemed to be all in the best of spirits and most hippy,
dancing and singing going on, and some little chaff and
rather rough horse play being indulged in, but no quarrelling.
VVereturned to the big room when the feeding was just finishing
and the baskets being removed with little of their contents Idt
ADOWA AND AUUIADDI
185
i
I
The marriage thtn cofnincticed. the bridegroom and his
Iters marched in first, all dud in S|)lcndid garments of
and satin with lion mane capes ami richly decorated
Ids covered with silver filagree work aiid bosses, Uie swords
aho being highly ornamented with silver and silver gilt
patterns. The procession was headed by several trumpeters
blowing their lonfj trumpets, the same shape as seen in old
I&blica) pictures and that blew down the walls of Jericho.
They halted in front of the slightly raised platform, and tlicn
tile bridegroom came forward and kissed the hand of Ras
Uangeslia and that of his father.
The bride's proceasion then entered by a side door from
Ac women's quarters, and their approach was heralded by
all the women in the cciurt>'ard and in the big room began
tbeir shrill and car-spiitting cry which sounds like lu'lu-lu
Rpcated frequently. The bride was supported by eight
yvoae girls holding up a large piece of green silk which
completely covered the whole of their faces, only allowing
their dresses to be seen ; they also came up to the place
ulicre we were all sitting; and stopped before Kas Mangcsha.
The silk was not wide enough to allow all of us to see, so
Hnlazzani and I came closer and lifted up one of the hang-
iif comers, as we did not think much of a wedding unless
*c could see the bride and her bridesmaids. We were well
nnvded for the trouble we took, aa I do not remember ever
Id have seen a lot of prettier native girls assembled ti^cther.
"He bride was beautifully dressed in liKht blue silk and had
tplcadid gold jewellery consisting of necklaces, bangles and
c4cr ornaments. She had black wavy hair worn short, and
Hnall gold crosses on each temple and in the centre of the
ilRlicul just at the place where the hair commences to grow ;
Xhervisc, with the exception of small gold and dLtmond
httoD earrings, she had no other head ornaments. Her age
*u about sixteen, and she had a line, tall, well-developed
Wdgood shaped figure. Her complexion was not nearly so
4lik as many southern Europeans, and there was a distinct
H>ie-colourcd Hush on her cheeks. She had beautiful white
Itttii and large black flashing eyes, and was altogether a
■fta charming >*oung lady. The profile was rather Semitic
"Xl llie features looked as if they would last and not get
Vih by getting stout. We were both greatly taken with
Wand voted that with our long experience of Abyssinian
l!Ms,we had never seen any more beautiful but some niually
U good h)oking.
18G
MODKUN ABYSSINIA
There were tliree others Uiat were also very good looking
and the othcr» were much above the average. I met one
of the prettiest of the bridesmaids some time afterwards at
Macallc, and she was very nice and clever for an Abyssinian
girl ; as she could read and write and talked a few words of
Arabic, quite enough to get on with without an interpreter,
her face was also entirely Semitic and her complexion the
very lightest of browns, and altogether she was a very good
specimen of the true bred North Country Abyssinian woman.
No wonder that some of the Italian officers simply rave
about how charming the Abyssinian female sex are, and
what a future there is before tliem ; tliey are no doubt very
clever, and if taken in hand before they get to a certain
age, they can be taught anything, and also to be true and
faithful It is the same with the boys if taken in hand young
enough, as they arc quick at picking up any language or
any trade, but if they return to their country before their
characters arc really formed, they suddenly relapse and pick
up all the bad habits of the uneducated and brutal soldiery,
and remember also at the same time everything bad they
have learnt in Europe.
There was no religious ceremony, and tlie bride's hand
was put into that of the bridegroom by her father the R&s
who said a few words to the pair — he then kissed his
daughter, and the bride and bridegroom kissed the Ras's
hand ; they then both did the same to Ras llagos and the
bu!«ine:«s was finished, The bride'> procession then returned
to their quarters to the accompaniment of the trumpets and
the lu-lu-lus of tlie women, and the bridegroom sat down
and tlie dancing and music again commenced. The minstreU
with their peculiar stringed instruments, sang extemporary
VCI3C8 in honour of the two Rases, the bride and bridegroom,
and die two foreign guests. These minstrels are no doubt
of very ancient origin, and date away back to the very
oldest of times when singing first came into vogue, long,
long before the Troubadours and long before our earl
times. They sing of the deeds of the great ruler Sabagidt^
the modem hero of Tigr^, and of famous people of ancknt
times ; they make cxtemimniry versei on whatever festivity
is going on, and they touch on the topical points of
day. \Vhcn we left, they followed Mulozuni and 1 to
camp, and they said he urai a jolly good fellow, and that
the Italians were brave people and they sang nti sorts of
nice things about tlie English and what a particularly tUcc
i
■cry ,
lent^
-^
ourl
hatm
ADOWA AND ABBl-ADUl
187
Wiw, for which they ^ot from us two dollars, and it ended
by our having to give them four dollars to get rid of them,
they said they Ii;ul a lot more nice things to say about
and wc were perfectly tired of their monotonous one-
instnimcnt. I never knew before that one little bit
if sheep's bowel could make such a lot of diflercnt noises.
One of the minstrels was rather clever and could imitate
the one string the animal from which it came, which was
to be surprised at, and a great many more animals and
as well. I believe this was not considered by his
r minstrels to be high art, but only on a par with our
entertainers, but it amused us a great deal more than
their historic pieces. They, as well as their audience, get
!y excited over the deeds of Sabagadis and also over the
of King Johannes at Gallabat, whom they only really
iated .iftcr hts death, certainly the country never
ijoycd such a peaceful period in modem Iiistory, as they
' under this king.
The dances that were given were some of them hi^ly
minteresting and some of them very suggestive and indecent,
ha this could not be wondered at. as it was a wedding-day
and ponds full of tcdj had been consumed, as the hospitality
kid been on the most lavish scale. We had war dances, the
■Kcting of two warriors, their mimic combat, and the death of
tM of them ; a joint dance between men and women, which 1
WBt not describe, and dances by women, all of the shuffle
■der, time being kept by clapping the hands tc^ether. The
iImcc de ventre is of course suggestive but the women being
^ clothed, it is not nearly no bad as that danced formerly
B Khartoum, where the girls had nothing but a handful of
Ifciils to cover them. Wc left tijem going on with the
lotivitics at about five o'clock, and they were continued long
^ the night, until a bad thunderstorm with heavy rain
^pcd their ardour and drove them off to bed.
I met at Abbi-Addi the late King Johannes' jester, a very
■nail dwarf, only three feet tivc inches in height, with a very
*]^U proportioned body, but with a very large hend quite out
'pnsportion to his size; my No. 7 helmet was a great deal
>nnall for him. He was over fifty years of age and a very
'•"cresting wcli informed little man when not jesting, and
*u a great source of amusement to me both at Abbi-Addi
"hi Macalie. He was enormously powerful, and on festal
"ccajions when he used to get a little drunk, very quarrcl-
*Bnc ; and iJien be used to pick out the biggest man of the
188 MODERN ABYSSINIA
crowd that was annoying him, to go for. If he could once
make good his charge and get between their l^s, over they
used to go, and white they were down he would get them
round the neck with his powerful little arms and nearly
strangle them. The fall of a giant at the hands of the
midget, used always to be well received and there were then
shouts for Barrambaras Marou, by which title he was known.
If he failed in his chaige, and was lifted off his feet and put
under the man's arm and held head downwards, he used to
scream like a naughty child, and promise to be good. He
was greatly distrusted by some people, as he used always to tell
his present master, Ras Mangesha, everythit^ he heard, and he
had found out many conspiracies during his life. On one
occasion he told me he had hidden in a sack of grass, and
listened to a meeting of conspirators and when they had gone
to sleep, he went off and told King Johannes, and they were
all arrested the same night, and all accused each other oi
treachery. He was very cunning, and nothing at first would
induce him to come near me, but at last I won his confidence
and afterwards he proved most useful on many occasions
He was married to a woman much over the average hright;
and his children were all good sized ones and his two younger
brothers were also fine men, and stood greatly in awe of him,
as he made them work very hard. He was a splendid rider and
a very good judge of horse flesh, and his light weight allowed
him to beat men who were perhaps better mounted. He was
also a very decent shot, and had killed a good few dervishes,
but he utterly refused to fight against the Italians. He saw
the English once but was so frightened of the elephants and
the Armstrong battery of guns, that he ran away and nothing
could induce him to go near them again. About the first
question he asked me was, where was my elephant, and I
could not understand what he meant until he said he thought
all rich Englishmen rode in boxes on elephants.
The view from Abbi-Addi of the Semien range was very
grand ; I tried to sketch the range but could not do it justice.
During the middle part of the day, it was very often hiddoi
by the rain and thunderstorms, but at sunrise and sunset good
views could be obtained. The northern end of the range
has a much greater altitude than the southern, and the slope
from north to south is gradual. After a cold night the
northern crest of Ras Detcham the highest peak was covered
with snow which used to extend perhaps as much as 1500 feet
down the slopes ; the rising sun used to give it a pink glow>
ADOWA AND ABBI-ADDl
189
by sunset this snow had melted all except a Uttle at the very
Idgh peak, and in the sides of the valleys that scam its face.
For three whole days when the sun was nearly always
obscured the snow covered a very lai^e area of the range,
Mid once late in the afternoon, the sun came out quite
brightly and the view of the snow clad range was lovely with
its i>ink and opalescent colours, the lights remaining long
after the sun had stink behind the horixon, and then f^adually
dianging from green, red, lire colour to blue bl-ick, till the
Ustpink glow went out on the highest peak, aud the range
Aood up black against the backing of dark clouds. Through
tile glasses several big waterfalls are to be seen which are
evidently formed by the melting of snow, as they arc generally
rf greater volume when the sun is shining brightly than at
any other time. No traveller has ever given us a really good
dcicriptton of the Semieii coimtry in the cold season, and I
loaged to visit it, but I had nut the opportunity, and to cro&s
the Taeanze in full floo<l is, I believe, quite imix>ssible vis-d-
w to the countiy I was now in. There is one very high
needle peak that can be seen from here, that rLses from one of
the lower mountains, that must be a grand sight when close
to it I tried to find out its name but none ofthe people that
I asked could tell me. and Schimper also did not know, as he
|hul nc\-cr visited the nortliern part of Semien.
Adjoining our camp was a verj- peculiar little church, part
t( it was formed by giant boulders of rock and the rest built
('onlinaiy masonry; this must have been of most ancient
date, from the earliest Christian according to tradition. At
4e back of the boulders was a doorway, between two large
lodcs leading into a storeroom full of private and church
prapcrty, and I was told that two immense wooden chests
sWained very old records and documents, which I should
BBcb have liked to examine, but I had not the time at my
I %KisaL 1 came across a good number of these churches,
Ipnly built against rocks, but I never saw a really cave
'(^■rch nor any cave dwellings that are so much talked about
hf travellers. I have been in many of tht: so-called caves,
hot they are simply formed by a face being built to a hollow
h» the rock where the softer stone has decomposed from
[ clunatic influence, or where some stream that has changed its
tuane in bygone ages has hollowed out the .side of a cliff
The peculiar semi rock dwellings in the Ham.iscn may
have got their name from unobservant traveUers, the real
■itiire of these htiuses are far from rock dwellings; the top
190 MODERN ABYSSINIA
denuded hard rock ridges are chosen by the inhabitants to
build their houses against for many reasons, the ground on
the top of these ridges dries quicker than further down the
slopes; landslips which are of frequent occurrence on die
lower slopes are also not known. The ridges are generally
free from fever, and there are no mosquttos and a good viev
is always obtainable, so the crops in the valleys can be
watched, also an enemy can be easier seen and the ridges are
easier defended. Houses can be constructed with less trouble
as a lean-to is the only side that has to be built up in order
to make a habitation, and only a semi circular Eareeba is
required to protect the inmates and their flocks from wild
animals. On several occasions I have climbed these ridgei
on the reverse face, and to my surprise when I had reac&d
the top found I was on the top of a house, and looking down
into a village.
I was told by a European lady who was living in the
Hamasen, that on one occasion while she was sketcbin? in
one of these villages, a lion came and looked down from
the top of the ridge, and she was very frightened that it
would jump down into the zareeba. This animal was diot
by one of the Abyssinians and she had the sldn. I do not
know whether it was a " match box " story or not, but at the
time she related it, there were many lions to be found in the
north and in that district they could be heard nightly. How
many pretty tales are exploded in time and many an extra-
ordinary thing is related, which had only a small amount of
truth in it, and it is built on till a marvellous fairy story is
the result, which falls to the ground when some less imagina-
tive person explains it away.
The coffee gardens of Abbi Addi contain some of the best
specimens of trees that I have ever came across, they are
situated in the valley that is formed by one side of the
plateau on which the town stands ; the end of the valley at
last turns into an enormous canyon with nearly perpendicular
sides. It is only open to the west and is many degreea
warmer than the surrounding heights, and all tropical ^iti
and flowers thrive luxuriantly in the sheltered spot The
banana gardens are numerous, and noted for their splendid
bunches of fruit; they are of all kinds, from the small thin
skinned luscious fruit that will hardly bear carrying for a
short distance, to the large thick coated cooking sort The
small ones are dried in the sun and make quite a nice sweet-
meat Pomegranates, oranges, limes, shaddocks and f^
ADOWA AND ABRI-ADDI
1»1
m numerous and good, and everything In the shape of
ngctables both tropical and temperate, thrive in the greatest
profusion, tobacco of excellent quality is also grown, and
lliii district seems to be most favoured by nature and would
be a charming place, for a man tired of the troubles of
oviltsed life to retire to, as he could procure everything in the
ny of food ; and if fond of nature could find the most varied
UKKtincnt of 6oral, animal, bird and insect life. Good snipe.
dKk and goose shooting is to be had ; the francolins and
pinca fowl arc everywhere, many of the smaller antelope
OHnc within sight of the town, and the rock and ground
i^uirrcls arc so tame that they come right up to the door of
fee bouses.
1 fuund the people all most kind and hospitable, and 1
Aall always look back at the ten days spent here. a» among
Ihe iDost ple:isant of my life. Mulazir^ni and I went for
iiSiy walks while waiting for some Italian prisoners that were
ping to be handed over to him to take back to Eritlirea, and
X Usi they arrived, and a sorry sight tliey were, hatless,
ihoeless and clothclcss, with a few rags only to cover them,
fifty and unkempt. I shall always remember the meeting,
nrcryonc cried at sccinj; friends for the first tinw for so many
•eary months. ! can imagine their feelings, having to come
their superior officer and myself a perfect stranger in
state they were in; so that we could sec how Italians
red before the natives of the country, and what the
must have then thought of the people who had fought
ipfaut them-
It is to be hoped that no European-t will again have to
pot up with what these poor people liave had to go through.
Ifcey were not badly treated, and they had enough food ^ven
IIkbi to eat, but of bad quality compared to what they were
■OCBstomcd to; but to wander about the country nearly
Mked, and to undergo the nearly tropical heat of the sun at
■iiday, the bitter cold wind at night, and the rain and
fanp, without any prospect of immediate help or rescue,
■W have been very trying. We all set to work to sec
lAat we could do for them ; we had plenty of soap, and I
W a razor to spare and we boiled water in zinc buckets,
ttd they soon be^n to look better, and after a shave and
ptttng rid of the majority of their hair with the iniects it
oWatned ; the change was wonderful. The jokes they
ttule, when thej* looked in a looking-gta.ss for the first time
^ months, were never ending, and I must say that they
192 MODERN ABYSSINIA
were cheery enough, when they once were certain that their
troubles were over, f kept a change of clothes and a change
of boots, and handed the rest of my kit over to them. I had
some cloth with mc, and needles and thread, and we made
native trousers out of it, and in a few hours they all had
something to put on ; Mulazzini also giving them everything
that he could spare
The two cooks and my servants were all busy gettti^
them a good meal ready, and I never saw men enjoy eating
more than they did. Soup, mutton, stewed chicken, cuny
and rice, sardines, preserved fruit^ biscuits, bread, tedj,
brandy, tea, coffee and other thit^rs, they never thought that
they would ever see again. Seventeen of them sat down and
we waited upon them, they drank the health of the King of
Italy, their country and of Mulazzaoi, the Queen's health,
England's health and mine ; they sang songs, smoked
cigarettes, cigars and pipes, and were all as jolly as possible^
and I do not believe that ever such a curiously dressed
crowd of soldiers sat down to dinner before, or people more
heartily thankful that they now count the days when thqr
would see their own kith and kin again. They said that for
five months, they had not had a proper wash or seen a bit of
soap, and had nothii^ to eat but bread, meat not properly
cooked and red pepper, and had not hfui a smoke, and had
slept on the hard ground, or in some insect-infested house or
cattte-shed. We got a lot of dry hay and some blankets,
and made them a good soft bed in a big tent, and they all
turned in while Mulazzani and I sat up, as it was our last
night t<^ether.
It was very lucky of Mulazzani getting these prisoners
back, and a great feather in his hat for the diplomatic way in
which he had played his cards. Next morning early saw
him start, and when I said good-bye I had hoped to see him
^ain before long, but up till to-day we have never met. I
owe Mulazzani a great deal for all his kindness to me, and in
this officer, Italy has a gallant, intelligent servant, who
thoroughly understands the natives and their ways, and
a man that is bound to make his mark in the annals of the
colony of Erithrea, if he ever has the opportunity given him.
I was to leave the next day, but it rained so hard that
travelling was impossible, and it was not till the next
morning that I got away. I was sorry for one reascm that I
was detained, as on the extra day 1 remained, Ras Michael
or Waldenkel, who I have mentioned so often before, waa let
^VDOWA AND ABBI-ADDl
193
it from the place he was confined in, while the marriage
Cestivittcs had been goin^; on. His power was brolcen, but he
k a sort of individual who would -ipoil any party. I had not
seen him for ncirly twenty years, and he sent word to say he
was coming to pay me a visit, and before I could say I did
not want to see him he came into my tent with his followers
and sat down on my bed. It was no use telling him to go
away as he would not have gone, and he immediately com-
menced a long history of how badly he had been treated by
^ypt; and when he had finished, I let him know what I
knew about him, and that I was the same Englishman that
had seen him near Keren, when General Gordon was there as
^H Governor-General.
^B I then told him my version of his history, and if he had
^Fhs desserts, he would have been hung up long ago. I knew
f my man thoroughly; a bully, and combining all the very
worst points of one of tlie very worst Abyssinians that ever
irved, and that is saying a great deal. He asked mc if I was
not frightened of him in olden days ; and I told him I had
W absolutely no fear of him then, when he threatened to
bloe mc prisoner, and I knew that he bad still some cut-
throati with him, and that I should sec that he and his men
•ere properly watched that night, and it was no use coming
to my camp at nij^ht, as it was guarded. My guardLan then
cunc into camp and I sent for him, and I soon had the
nttsfaction of seeing him driven away, very thankful to have
dot rid of him ; missing, however, my only si>arc pair of boots,
t pair of slippers, some tins of food, and the only bottle of
tinndy that I had with me. Waldcnkel is just the same as
be used to be ; a strong, heavy old man with now snow-white
kair. He stands about six feet three inches, and I should
think weighs nearly twenty stone ; a perfect giant amongst
Abyfsinians.
When I first saw him, now years ago, he was sitting on a
■ative t>cdstead, and used to use a fat tcdj girl for a pillow,
and those that stood round him as pocket-handkerchiefs.
I never considered he was perfectly sane, and in his old age
be has grown worse. It is no use being civil to these people,
and if one shows the least bit of nervou-sness or any signs of
fear with lliem, the consequences might not be pleasant;
happily they arc very rare in Abyss^ni.^ at present. They
an always cowards, and if tiiey think that you would go for
diem they alwa>-s cave in, and they arc very frightened of
, getting a hole in their skin.
194
MODERN ABYSSINIA
Wc made a good march the next morning, and went past
Sabandas and tried to reach Chelunko, but a heavy storm
came on to the cast, and wc had to stop at Mai Kenctal, a
small stream that runs in from the cast of the bin valley.
The cook, with his two mules, was about half a mile ahead,
and I sent a boy on to bring him back. In the meantime,
about three miles to the east a waterspout burst on the
mountain side ; it looked like a dust whirlwind, so often seen
in the hot weather in the Soudan, and in ten minutes a spate
came down the small Mai Kenetal, which made crossing
Impossible. The banks are high, and the water at ordinary
times about two feet deep ; it had risen in a quarter of an
hour to more than twenty feet in height and about thirty
yards in breadth, and tlic rushing torrent was full of mimosa
trees which had been torn up by tbdr roots by the water-
spout. Our tent was on our side, but the food on the other,
so we threw a rope across the stream and had our dinner
passed over to us. Wc had a wild wet night, and the hyenas
were very troublesome, as all the wood was so damp that
it was with difficulty we could keep fires alight They
succeeded in stampeding the mules, and my riding animal
ran into a thick mimosa bush and defended herself against a
hyena with her heels, and got slightly bitten before a shot
drove the hyena away.
I sa;v here one of those very rare, nearly black foxes ;
Schimper, who was wtUi me, had only seen three or four in
his life ; they are a good deal bigger than the largest English
dog fox, and are exactly the same in shape and have a very
bu»iy tail. I thought at first it might be only a case of
melanism in a black backed jackal, but this animal is sot
found at such a high altitude, nor has he the habit of coming
»o near civilisation, preferring the low country and the sul^
tropical regions. I had a good view of him through my
glasses, and his shape is quite different from tliat of the
jackal 1 have only handled one skin of this animal, and
that was so worm-eaten and incomplete that it was useless
buying as a specimen ; the fur is nearly black, and the under
parts of the belly and under the ears a dark chestnut brown,
nearly black.
Next morning, to my disgust, I found there was a trtnt-
port mule missing, which I did not find out over night, as
some of the animals were on one side of the stream and some
on the other. On making inquiries I found that it murt
have been lost at the VVcrri river, and as we had heard
I
I
I
AI>0\VA AND ABBl-ADDI
195
sbots whHe we were resting there for lunch ; and we fooDd
Ifimn some merdtants, who were camping just ahead of us,
I that they had fired oiBT their rifies because the>' had seen
I three mud-di^uised men on the rcod. Our advance animaLi
some way in front of us, so no doubt the mule,
'owing to the carelessness of my Somalis, had entered the
bosh to K'^tc OQ ^c gniss and had been taken by these
ever watchful thieves, who could easily have led it through
the thick scrub into a place of safety ; the tnulc had only a
pack saddle on and a few things belonging to my Somali
'lervantSt including their blankets, which they could not
replace nearer than Asmara. The merchants also reported
that they had lost a donkey which got swept away from
the ford into the pool lower down, where it had been taken
by a crocodile. Mulazrani's soldiers, on the way up to Abbi*
Addi, at the same pool had killed two bull crocodiles that
Lvere on dr>' land ^fatii^, and had taken their skins, neither
of them very targe, about eight and ten feet reflectively;
they were, however, quite big enough to do hann.
The VVcrri, when we crossed it, was only a little b^er
than on our way up, but the fresh Qood-marks showed that
it had been impassable on many occasions. From Mai
Kenetal wc marched into Adowa, taking the road between
I Abba Garima and the group of mountains on which Adowa
. js situated, a very easy road, and we had no occasion to
unload our animal-t as on our jouniey to Abbi-Addi. We
led through King Tchlaihaimanout^s camp on the Farras-
u stream, with many bodies still unburicd, and the ground
ro with camp litter and broken loot. We found one
^ettcrli rifle in a good state of preservation, but covered
with rust, which I gave to a peasant who gave mc shelter
in his house while a thunderstorm was going on. I arrived
in Adowa at Ledj Mcrtcha's house, wet through and with
a touch of fe\-cr, glad to get back to a comfortable dwelling
tand a waterproof roof, and get some more clothes, as
Jthough I had enjoyed my trip immensely, the constant
tng wet and the damp had given me a toudi of
[vheumatism, and I had several sharp attacks of malarial
fever that would only stop after very lai^e doses of quinine
which used to render me nearly deaf.
CHAPTER IX
THE BATTLE OF ADOWA
'npHOSE of my readers vho do not care about battles, and
■'■ are people of peace, had better not read this chapter,
but go on to the next I published an account of this fight
in the month of May 1897 in the Manchester GuardioH, but
a newspaper article is soon foi^otten or lost ; aod the facts
r^arding the great defeat of the Italians by the Abyssinians
will historically prove interesting, as it shows the fightii^
capabilities of united Abyssinia, and what Italy bad to
contend against, compared to what England bad to under-
take in her long and arduous march to Magdala, to fight
at last against a small ill-anned force of men, who pluckily
left the security of their fortifications and came out tn the
open on to the Aroge plateau to give battle to a superior
armed foe.
The battle of Adowa, commonly designated by the Italians
as the battle of Abba Garima, from the mountain of that
name, solidified the Abyssinian kingdom, and placed King
Menelek firmly on the throne. With the exception of
an account published by the Italian War Office in 1896,
no details of this fight had ever been made public until
my article appeared nearly fifteen months after the battle ;
and King Menelek, who was in a position to give his version
of the story through the French or M. 1%, his Swiss adviser,
has never done so.
The Italian War Office report was drawn up at Massowah,
its compiler being General Lambert), the Governor of that
town, who never visited this part of Abyssinia, and published
his account from materials which were inadequate and
imperfect, and before many of the most essential witnesses
had been examined, namely those that were in captivity
with King Menelek. Valuable evidence of that day's fight
was lost when General Dabormida was killed, as he perhaps
alone could have explained his position; aiid as General
Arimondi also lost his life, the only version the public hai
THE BATTLE OF ADOWA
197
_Jcsi
jiven of the centre of the .irmy ami the reserves
delaying to take up their positions, h from Generals Baraticri
and Ellena, and their explanations must be received with
ftomc caution.
As far as my opinion is concerned, I think it tends to
throw the entire onus of the defeat on those who had com-
mand of the centre. I have spared no pains in collecting
every shred of evidence 1 could from conqueror and
vanquished. I rode over the battlefield eight times, and
I had in 1 884 shot over the greater part of it, so 1 thoroughly
know the country. Before going over the battlefield for
the first time, I had had several conversations regarding the
fight with Kas Aloula, who had been a sort of chief of the
Abyssinian staff, and as he was Governor of the district on
which the battle had been fought, and lived in it more or
Jess the whole of his life, his evidence was most valuable.
'ter visiting the battlefield I acatn had not only convcrsa-
jons with him, but with Ras Man^csha, who headed his
rmy on the day of the fight, and also with Ras Magos of
the Tembicn troops, and then after hearing what they bad
to ray, revisited the battlefield on several occasions. Subse-
quently i had conversations with the king himself regarding
the battle, and with his leaders Ras Mcrconen, Ras Woly,
Waag Choum Gangul, who all commanded armies, and with
many leading men who had also taken part in it. At Adese-
Ababa I met General Albertonc on a great many occasions,
and talked for hours with him on the subject, and was able
to give him information on a good many points he knew
nothing about ; finally Mr Schimpcr, who was Abyssinian
secretary to the Italian Intelligence Department, was with
me at Adcse-Ababa, and he could explain to General
Albertone all General Baratieri's movements on the 29th
February, from the advance towards Adowa from Entiscio
until he ran away at Ruio the next day after Genera)
Albcrtone's brigade had been surrounded and nearly
annihilated, and General Arimondi had been killed and
his troops in retreat.
I give a perfectly impartial, and I hope unbiased state-
ment of what actually took place, and I hope from it my
fflilitar)* readers will be able to form their own opinion ; and
irbat with the experience gained by the British expedition
laMagdaU.and from the mistakes made by the llaliaiis, that
some useful lesson may be learnt ; and if ever there is an
occasion to again invade Abyssinia, that proper precautions
198
MODERN ABYSSINIA
will be taken against a brave and mobile foe. I know for
certain that the Italians would never ^ain be led into such
gross tactical errors as they committed on this occasion, and
should they again have to cross the frontier the result of Hie
campaign will be very different, in spite of tlie Abyssinian
army being now better armed in every way that It was tn
1896.
The following ia a list of the troops under General
Baratieri that marched from Entiscio on the 29th February
for Adowa, its distance being about eighteen' miles from the
Italian encampment According to the Italian oflidal
statement, General Baratieri had in his command altogether
14,519 rifles with $6 guns. This does not include micera,
artillery, camp followers, etc., or the irregular native levies
belonging to the provinces of Bogos and Hamasen, who were
also armed with rifles,
A. Native Brigade (General Albertone).
6th ... .
■ n
3 yju
850
7th „ . .
■ »
950
8th ...
• II
950
Irregulars,
• n
376
1st Native Battery,
.
Cannon 4
2nd Section of the 2nd Mountain Battery,
>. 2
3rd Mountain Battery, .
. ,
• 4
4th ,
>
» 4
Total (approximate number of rifles) 4076 Cannon 14
B. First Infantry Brigade (General Aiimondi).
1st Regiment (Colonel Stevani) —
1st Battalion Bersaglieri, . Rifles 423
2nd „ „ 350
2nd Regiment (Colonel Brusati) —
2nd Infantry Battalion, „ 450
4th „ „ soo
9th „ „ 550
1st Company of the 5th Native Bat-
talion, ... „ 220
8th Mountain Battery, . . . Cannon 6
nth „ ... „ 6
Total (approximate number of rifles)
2493 Cannon |3
THE BATTLE OF ADOWA
199
C. Second Infantry Brigade
(General Dabormida).
3rd Regiment (Colonel Ragin) —
i5t Infantiy Battalioa,
Rifles 430
5ft
1)
430
lOth
n
4SO
6th Regiment (Colonel Alraghi)—
3rd Infanti>- Battalion,
w
430
13th
ti
450
14th
M
450
Militia Battalion,
>t
950
Native Company of Asmara, .
t>
210
2nd Artillery Brigade (Colonel Zola) —
5th Mountain Battery,
,
Cannon 6
6th
,
« 6
7th
.
„ 6
Total (approximate number of rifles) 3800 Cannon 18
D. Third Infantry Brigade (General Ellcna).
4th Regiment (Colonel Romero) —
Tth Infantry Battalion,
8th
nth ^
5th Regiment (Colonel Nava) —
Alpine Battalion, .
tSth Infantry Battalion, .
1 6th
3rd Native Battalion (Colonel GalHano),
Br^ade of Quick-firing Guns (Colonel
dc Rosa)-^
1st Quick-firing Battery, .
and
Half Company of Engineers, .
Total (approximate number of rifles)
Rifles 450
- 450
.. 480
.. 5 SO
„ 500
500
1150
Cannon 6
.. 6
70
4150 Cannon \%
Grand Total, Rides 14,519 Cannon 56
Against this Italian force the Abyssinians could muster
at least i20/x>o fighting men. It is impossible fur the
dtffetcnt Abyssinian funerals to say exactly how many men
took part in the battle, as they were so scattered. The day
before, as Sunday the 1st March was a great feast day and
there was no prospect of fighting, many of tlw men had left
^^
200 MODERN ABYSSINIA
camp and gone to spend the night at the villages near the
many different churches that are so numerous round the
towns of Axum and Adowa, where they intended pay-
ing in the early morning and feasting afterwards. There
can be no doubt that soon after the battle opened the
Abysstnians tnust have had at least 70,000 rifles on the field,
and later on in the day their whole fighting force ; also many
of their camp followers took part in the fray, armed with spear,
sword and shield, or any other weapon they could get hold of.
The fighting men were drawn from all parts of Abyssinia,
and the following' list gives the names of the kings, priocea,
and chiefs of Abyssinia who marched north to drive back
the invaders of their country.
1. Army of Kii^ Menelek and Queen Taltou — Shoaos
and South and South-Western Gallas.
2. Ras Merconen, the nephew of King Menelek — Shoan
and Harar troops.
3. Ras Woly, King Menelek's brother-in-law — ^Vejju con-
tingent Amharans and Gallas.
4. Ras Michael, adopted son of the late King Johannes,
with the Wollo Galla army.
5. Ras Mangesha, illegitimate son of the late King
Johannes, with the Tigr^an troops.
6. The Waag Choum Gangul, with the Amharic troc^
of Waag and Lasta.
7. Ras Aloula, with the Tigr^an troops of the northern
frontier.
8. King Tchlaihaimanout, with the Godjam troops.
g. Ras Sebat and Hagos Taferi, with the Agame troops.
The two latter leaders had been in the pay of the Italians
up till the time when the battle of Amba Alagi was fought,
and on Ras Merconen's advance further nor£ they joined
him with all their troops, armed with modem rifles, and laige
supplies of ammunition that had been given them by ue
Italian Government There is an old saying in Tigri, that
"nothing ever good came out of Agamft," and both Ras
Sebat and Hagos Taferi are two intriguing scoundrels, and
like the famous Ras Waldenkel, ready to sell thnr own
friends or country to the highest bidder. The Agaiat
peasantry are a most warlike race, and are noted as very
good shots with the gun. Before firearms were introduced,
they were equally noted for throwing the spear and shootil^
with the bow and arrow.
THE BATTLE OF ADOVVA
201
I bave put on the accompanying map, which U taken from
one issued by the itaiian Government to their officers for the
campaign, the positions occupied by the different Abyssinian
camps the morning of the battle, where the Italian army was
encamped on the 29th February, and the three places they
reached before daylight on the morning of the ist March.
At the first glance at the plan it can be seen how well
the Abyssinian position was chosen. Their right. No. I and
No. 2, which was under King Tchlathaimanout, was en-
amped on a high irr^uiar plateau, with its southern flank
protected by nearly perpendicular cliffs, up which there are
a few sheep paths, impossible nearly for Pluropcan troops to
•cale. In the open ground at the foot of the cliffs, amongst
water meadows, were encamped the Godjam cavalry. Ad-
jcuning King Tchlaihaimanoufs army was that of Ras
Mcrconcn No. 3, who occupied Adowa and the heights
above. The advance on these two camps would have to be
up hill, the slope being gradual, with little cover for sheltering
the attacking force, while the defenders would be sheltered
by rocky ground, and the houses and enclosures round
Adowa. The next encampment, No. 4, was that of Kas
Michael with his Wollo Gallas ; many of them were mounted
on hardy country horses, and served as mounted infantry.
He was sL-ttioned about the centre of tlie i>osition on the
southern and south-western slopes of Mount Selado ; joining
him on the northern and north-western slopes was Ras
Mangcsha, No. 5, and on the extreme left of tlic Abyssinian
position was Ras Alouta, No. 6, who occupied the heights
round Adi-Aboona, King Mcncick and Queen Taitou were
encamped at Frcmona, No. 7, near the ruins of the old
Portuguese Jesuit monastery; their position was also a good
ooe, as the heights round Fremona gradually slope up from
Ibc valley that divides it from Mount Selado. and are
crowned with broken rocky ground, offering great facilities
br defence, and a stubborn resistance could al.so be made
at the small river that runs down the willey, as in many
places it has nearly perpendicular banks. The king's troops
were also able to support Ras Aloula's, Ras Merconen'a
and Ras Michael's positions Ras Woly was encamped at
No. 8 in the low ground to the south-cast of Frcmona spur,
immediately behind Ras Mcrconcn's position, whom he
could reinforce in less than half an hour, and the Waag
Cboum Gangul, No. 9, was equally close to Ras Merconen
and to King TchtaibaimanouL
202 MODERN ABYSSINIA
Positions No. 8 and No. 9 were on the soutii-west and
north-west slopes of Adowa, and were perfectly sheltered
from any direct artillery or rifle fire ; so troops from there,
by making use of the bed of the river, could come into action
without any loss at any point, commencing at No. 2 till Na 5
• — Dedjatchmatch Besheer's command of part of the troops
belonging to King Menelek's army was in reserve in another
sheltered position, No. 10, further in rear of the positions
Nos. 8 and 9, and he also could reinforce position Na y when
the king was encamped, without coming under fir& The Galla
cavalry were stationed in the water meadows, at No. II about
eight miles off. Their position should not be shown on the
plan, as it does not take it in, but they were so placed that
they could be used on either flank. The reason they were
kept so far away was that suflicient good grass and water
was not to be obtained any nearer.
To thoroughly reconnoitre and search out tfie Abyssinian
position was impossible, as the whole of it was not to be seen
from any given point even, and, if the Italian staff had gone
forward in several places, they would only have seen small
portions of camps 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and J. I have every reason to
know also that their Intelligence Department was altogether
at fault regarding the actual number of the Abyssinian
soldiers present, and they did not give them credit for
having the number of rifles, or the quantity of ammunition
they possessed, although they ought to have known that,
without the recent purchases of arms and machine guns from
the French, that Abyssinia possessed fairlygood breedi-loading
rifles of an amount that was considerably in excess of six
figures, and it seems to me incredible that the Italians, who
had already had their mountain guns put out of action at
Macalle by Ras Merconen's Hotchkiss quick-flrers, should
again oppose the Abyssinians with the same artillery. They
certainly had two quick-firing batteries with them, but they
were kept in reserve, and not put in the fighting line, and
the battle was all over before they were made use of.
The only troops belonging to the Abyssinians that were
armed with the same rifles as the Italians were those of Ras
Sebat and Hagos Taferi ; these leaders were with the troops
of Ras Aloula and Ras Mangesha. The other troops were
armed with every description of rifle, from the old Snider,
still in a good state of preservation, and a most favourite
weapon with them (owing to its killing powers), to the l«st
modem weapons. Among the rifles were the old and
THE BATTLE OF ADOWA
203
ittem Rcmin^on, Martini- Ucnrj-, Gras, Bcrdan, Mauser,
cbcl, Wcttcrli, etc. With all these weapons the AbyMinians
make good practice up to about (bur hundred to six hundred
yaids, and at a short distance they arc as good shots as any
men in Africa, the Transvaal Boers not excepted, as they
never throw a cartridge away if they can help it, and never
ifaoot in a Imrry. They know nothing whatever about fire
discipline nor any European drill, their one object being
vben an enemy is tn their country, to attack him at the
most favourable moment to themselves as possible. When
the word of command is given to advance, they can tell from
the position they arc in what their duties arc, and they know
the general plan of battle, namely, to surround their enemy
as quickly as possible, and when the circle is complete, to
make use of c\cr>- possible bit of cover on their advance to
the centre where their enemy is situated. Wlien they arrive
well within musket range, they commence firing, not before,
wd as their invaders have always fought in close formation,
Oe ta^et oflered has been a large one. The Abyssinian
with hL4 light load and unbootcd foot can move with case at
asort of jog-trot, at a ratio of at least four to one as compared
to the European, and as lie need never fight an engagement
nnless he wishes, and as a rule can tight at the time he chooses,
and not when his enemy would like him to, he always has
«n immense advantage.
The battle of Adowa was a good example of this ; the
Abyssinian had a splendid position to defend, which he left
because his enemy had given him an opportunity, which
periiaps woutO ncveroccur again, and enabled him to approach
the Italian position from all sides overground, that offered
great protection to the attacking force, there being little open
pound. The Abyssinian leaders could tell how many rifles
tbcy could concentrate and put into position gainst the
numbers that were likely to be against them in any part of
the field, and they acted accordingly, and threw within a
couple of hours a force of nearly eight to one against their
enemy's advance guard, which was General Albertonc with
the Italian left wing. No matter how good European infantry
•re. there is no standing against such odds in a thick and
broken country. Kight decent shots like the Abyssinians
ate more than a match for one good marksman. They also
knew that if they could not make good their attack, that
tbey could retire in comparative safetj' to their own strong
.position without encountering any particularly open bit of
SH MODERN ABYSSINIA
jiw— d. where tliey m^t have suffered from the Itah'an
MUHcfy or voUey fire, and that the nature of the new ground
Aey vac taking up for the attack, did not allow of them
bei^ outflanked as the Italian centre, right and reserves,
VCR too far off. Any front attack at Adowa was also
entirely in their favour, as it was all open ground, and again
it was not possible for them to be outflanked, as the It^an
force was too small and too slow to carry out the manceuvre.
The Abyssinian artillery was, as far as guns wen^
superior to the Italians, but not so numerous, and the two
quick-flrii^ batteries of the Italians, which might have
equalised matters, never had a chance of getting properly
into action, and was in the wrong part of the fleld.
By eleven o'clock on Satuiday night the Italian army
composed as before enumerated was on the march to
Adowa, and a further force of 2785 men were left to guard
the camp and stores at Endscio. No answer from King
Menelek had been received by G^eral Baiatlcri to his last
letter written a few hours before he started, asking that
n^otiations might continue, and a sort of an armistice
might be said to have existed. The Abyssinians never
expected to be attacked, and the Italian advance would
have been a complete surprise, had it not been for Ras
Aloula, who never believed the Italian ofHdals, and would
never trust them. Two of his spies watched the Italians
leave Entiscio, and anived by a circuitous route, and in-
(bnned Ras Atoula who was about a mile to the north o(
Adi-Aboona, that the enemy was on the march to Adowa-
The Ras immediately informed King Menelek and the other
kaders, and the Abysstntans prepared for battle, sending
oat strong scouting parties in all directions in front of their
p««ittons towards Entiscio. No look-outs on the further
ridges had been placed, on account of the negotiations
t^t, were being carried on. Before daylight it was found
diitt the advance guard, or more properly speaking the
kit wing of the Italian army, was already close, and gettii^
ioto position on the western slopes of the failb vis-d-vis to
Mount Abba Garima.
ttt order to reach Adowa the Italians advancing from
Kniiscio had a distance of about eighteen miles to traverse
The road from Entiscio, atter crossing a pass which is marked
.'u the plan, (MtKceds through the valley of the Farasmai
J^Kribed on the plan as the Mai Cherbara) and over
-.iK liandafta Pass (between the Gandafta and Cheirai
THE BATTLE OF ADOWA
205
tnountaios) to Mount Rata Kear Mount Ruo three roads
DccL Tbc ooTtfaen) rnmI nins by tbc Assam SeUdo stream
(called on the Italian map the Mariam Sciaitu) to Ad>-
Aboona (called in the map Adi-Abrum), where it is joined
hy a brook that comes from Gcsherwiwfa; the open land
between Adi-Aboona and the Ga»gorie pass. The southern
road runs down a narrow valley, then ascends the spur of
Mount Semaiata and conies out opposite Mount Aba Garima
into more open ground at the head of a small valley, that
drains again southward into the Farasroai. The central road
runs through the Mcmsah vallc}', through which runs the
Aasain brook ; then rises over the southern spur of Mount
Sdado (the name bcii^ spelt Scclloda by the Italians), and
then falls into the open fertile valley facing Adowa to the
north and north-ca«t, and follows again the Assam brook
till it reaches the market green at Adowa The brook cannot
be followed the whole way from Memsah valley, as it runs
through a deep gorge dividing tlie Sclado group from that
of Abou Garima. All three of these routes present great
difficulties for an invading force, being commanded by the
bills on dtlier side and offering but little space in which
troops can be deployed, except in the immediate vicinity of
the town of Adowa.
For an attack on Adowa, Entiscio is quite the wrong
base; tbc town can be approached through comparatively
open country either from the west or south-west, and an
army approaching from Adigrat should have left Entiscio
many miles to the north and swung round to the south of
tbc town down tlie Legumte valley and attacked from the
•oath-west The whole of the Farasmai valley is open
country, grass in the lower part, and cultivation on the
ilopei; there is only one fairly open spur to cross, and then
there is open ground right up to the environs of Adowx
When the three roads were reached at Raio the Italian army
divided. General Albertone, with the native Br^de A,
numbering about 4000 ritles, took the southern road.
General Dabormida, with Brigade C, coniiisting of a force of
3800 rifles, about two-thirds of the number being Euro{>eans,
look the northern road. General Anmondi, with Brigade B,
numbering 3500 rifles, ought to have advanced by the central
road; and Cieneral Ellena, with Brigade D, numbering 4150
rifles, remained behind at Raio. General Baratleri, witli his
staff, should have been with General Arimondi and followed
by the reserve under General Ellcna.
206 MODERN ABYSSINIA
The orders that General Albertone received were carried
out; he got into position on the Scmaiata ridge before
daylight, opposite to Mount Abba Garima, and if die centre
had been in its place it would have been in touch with him
in the Memsah valley above which the Semaiata rat^e runs.
General Dabormida made his advance in time, and there is
no doubt the object of his force was to outflank if possible the
Abyssinian left wing, and sweep round Mount Selado oo the
north, and make use of the fairly open ground that the Adi-
Aboona-Adowa valley ofTers from this direction. No one can
explain General Baratieri's inexplicable delay in not taking
up this central position and keeping General Arimondi's
troops from advancing, and also not placing General Eilena's
reserves in a position where they could easily reinforce either
flanks or centre. The centre and reserve had arrived at Raid
before daylight and they had a less distance to cover than
either of the wit^s.
The battle commenced at six o'clock in the motning
with an attack on General Albertone's position, his troops
occupyii^ a ridge on the Semaiata mountains ; his left flank
being in fairly thick bush, his centre on open ground with
isolated patches of bush, and his right on partly open and
partly broken ground. The Abyssinian development took
some time to accomplish, and while it was being carried out,
General Albertone sent back to General Baratieri for rein-
forcements, as he could see nothing of General Arimondi's
troops that ought to have been in sight on his right sochi
after daylight; he had before this already informed the
Commander-in-chief by a messenger that he had taken up
his position before daylight He was attacked by the troops
of King Tchlathaimanout on his left flank, by the king's
troops in the centre, and by those of Ras Michael and Ras
Mangesha on his right The King and Queen Taitou were
stationed at the old church at Edda-Abba Garima (the
house of Father Garima, one of the famous old monks of
Abyssinian history) well out of harm's way, where a good
view of the whole country up to the group of Selado is
obtainable.
In the early part of the fight some Abyssinian irrq^ulars
in Italian pay had arrived, and took up their position on a
somewhat lower position on Albertone's right flank at the
top end of the valley that divides Abba Garima horn
Semaiata. The irr^ulars, as might be expected, were the
first to give way in face of the vastly superior numbers
THE BATTLE OF ADOWA
207
Jit against them. The position they had occupied
bdiind trees and rocks I found strewn with empty cart-
ridge ca-scs ; the trees riddled with bullets, and the rocks
covered with bullet plashes, bore witness to tlte tremendous
fire by whidi they had been a-s^ailcd. The bodies of those
who were killed at this poMtion remained unburied, one of
them with hi.s back to the rock, still holding a cartridge
between hts teeth. The irregulars retired on Mount Kaio
and General Arimondi's position, which was a little over a
mile in front of General Ellcna with the reserves, and about
(bur to five miles behind the position that ought to have
been taken up to support Albcrtonc's right, and to fill in the
unoccupied ground in the Mcmsah valley.
The battle was at first an artillery duel, the Italians
(I'l'ng great havoc with their mountain guns on the dense
iBuses of Abyssinians before they deployed in skirmishing
order to the attack. The Abyssinian quick-finng Hotchkiss
gins soon arrived and took up a position on one of the
lower slopes of Garima, from which point they were enabled
lo pour a plunging fire on the Italians. The moment tliey
•ere brought into action they soon silenced Albcrtoncs
■tillery, which was now short of ammunition, gun after gun
beooming useless in succession, cither by the death of the
(miners or for want of more material to load them with.
The enemy hud now nearly encircled Albcrtone's position;
the front attack had crossed the open ground where they
Nifiercd severely, and had entered bus!) and broken ground
that led up to Uie ri<lgc. Hoth his flanks had been turned,
Utd the enemy's sharpshooters had mounted to the heights
tbove hu rear and were firing down on his soldiers. At last
final rush was made and further resistance would have
madness, and could only have resulted in a butchery of
le survivors and the wounded ; so there was nothing left to
do but surrender, and save what few men that there were
left alive. Thus at eleven o'clock, after expending all their
artillery and nearly all their small-arm ammunition, and
%bting for nearly live liours, the remnants of the left wing
o( the Italian force surrendered to the Abyssinian king.
The Abyssinian iroops in this part of the field were now at
liberty tu be employed helping tlicir compatriots against the
Brigades of Arimondi and Ellcna at Raio. The Abyssinian
leaders could sec long before General Albertone had to
Surrender how the battle would end in that part of the field,
and nearly the whole of Ras Mcrconcn's, Kas Mangesha's,
tbov
^^■cen
■^es
■do b
1*9^
208 MODERN ABYSSINIA
Ras Woly's, and the Waag Choum Gangul's forces faced
about and advanced to attack the Italian centre in the
direction of Raio.
Ras Michael's troops went to reinforce Ras Aloula, who
had already got into touch with General Dabonnida and
disputed his advance with a flanking fire. The firing that
took place in the early morning was heard not only by
the Italian centre, but in all the neighbourhood, and also
seventeen miles away to the westward ; at Axum the boom
of the cannon re-echoing from hill to hill was a signal to all
the fighting men who were looking forward to keeping their
feast at the sacred city to return to Adowa. Between nine
and ten o'clock the full Abyssinian force was on the field
of battle and the Galla cavalry had also arrived before
General Albertone's position, and had been sent off to the
left of the Abyssinian force to help to strengthen it.
The position of Arimondi and Ellena was critical from
the very commencement ; hours after the sound of the fight-
ing had commenced they remained nearly stationary in the
cramped position round Raio and Chidane Meret The
first news, it is said, that they received from the front, was
brought by some of the irregulars who had been engaged
on Albertone's right front and then more by some of the
left wing that had been stationed in reserve a little to the
rear of Albertone's right front A simultaneous attack com-
menced by an overwhelming force of Abyssinlans on the
front and flanks of Arimondi's brigade, and being in close
formation they offered an easy mark to the Abyssinians,
who now commenced swarming like locusts over the hi^
ground and trying to get round over the high land to close
the Memsah pass and cut off the retreat to Entiscio, Adtgrat
and Ocuiu-Cussei. General Arimondi, with his brave Italian
brigade, tried all he could to prevent the Abyssinians from
making their onward advance, but he was shortly out-
numbered and had to retire fighting every yard of ground.
He fell at the head of his troops. General Baratierl by
eleven o'clock had left General Ellena's forces and retired ;
he had seen the very large force of Abyssinians surely sur-
rounding General Arimondi, and he knew what would also
occur to General Ellena, so he made off, and it was not
till several miles after Raio had been left behind that bis
flag was hoisted for the first time during the day, and then
only to collect stragglers to cover the retreat
In the midst of this general disaster, or whatever one
THE BATTLE OF ADOWA
209
r
^Hroold call it. as there was now no semblance of real order
Vieft, there were many instances of individual gallantry. At
many points on the line of retreat officers and men turned
and attempted to hold the road, freely sacrificing themselves
with splendid courage in the attempt to cover the retreat
of tlieir comrades. On these human barriers the Abyssinians
came down like the spates in their ow-n mountain rivers,
twe^r^ all before them. The resistance of these isolated
bands was heroic, but it was utterly vain trying to stop
tbose that were p.inic-atricken, mingled up as the different
Dative and European regiments were, without officers, who
had mostly been the first to be slain. The Abyssinian
always, if possible, shoots down the officers or leaders in
his own fifihts, knowinj; that men without a leader arc
Diore easily defeated than those with them ; and as these
fights arc caused by the leaders, the sooner they are done
away with the sooner the quarrel will end.
Had General Ellena made use of his batteries of quick-
firers on each side of tlie Memsah pass and sacrificed them
there, he might greatly have checked the onward advance
of the enemy; but bringing them through the pass only
helped to block the road and hindered the line of rctrc.it,
and on the other side they had to be abandoned, having
been little used and doing hardly any execution. On
getting over the pass the Italians lost all formation, and
tiie army melted away in a fan-shaped formation cxtend-
^^^g in a half circle from the Adigrat to the Hausen road,
^Hfoliowed by the Abyssintans who cha^icd the fugitives to
^^Entiscio camp, which also fell into tlicir hands. The sur-
^HMvors from the Italian centre were then attacked by the
^P Agam^ population and many cruel massacres took place,
'^thc bodies of the stain being mutilated and their heads
cut off and put on the rocks that lined the sides of the
rood.
Gallant General Dabormida had fought his way along
the road to nearly Adi-Aboona before he was outnumbered
and bad to retire. Kas Aloula had to watch the Gasgorie
pass, along which a force of Italian irregulars was expected
from Adi - Quala, besides trying to check Daborroida's
advance; later in the day he was joined by Ras Michael's
Gallas and then by the king's Galla cavalry, who lost
heavily in charging Dabormida's square formation. It was
only when Kas hlangcsha's troops and some belonging to
Merconen, ted t>y Kas Mangcsha, made their appear-
o
210 MODERN ABYSSINIA
ance round the eastern side of Mount Selado and j<Mned
with Ras Aloula and Ras Michael that General Dabonnida's
force was outshot and outnumbered by about five to one.
He fell towards the close of the day, losing the majority
of his troops ; those that were not taken prisoners made
their escape to the Hausen road and to Adi-Quala.
So ended the day's fight, which was spread over a vety
lar^ area of country, all favourii^ the tactics of the de-
fenders of their country and ending so disastrously for
Italy. Nearly half of her troops were never in proper
battle array, and the three hours' halt of General Aruaondi
and the nearly four hours' halt of the reserves with General
Ellena and General Baratieri wilt always be to me the princi-
pal cause of the disaster. I rode over the ground so many
times and I know the country so well that I have a right
to speak on the subject, and I have no hesitation in saying
that the Italians owed the magnitude of their defeat entuely
to the fault of General Baratieri. No one has any right to
question the personal valour of the Italian officer and soldier
as the French press did, and on the ist March 189G many
heroes met their death, and also, I am glad to say, many
survived. Those that were in the centre never had a chance
tike the right and left wings to show what they could do,
and circumstances over which they had no control led to
a panic ; and no one knows better than our English officers
what it would be if they were placed in a similar position
with English and native regiments jammed .together in a
confined valley with only one small outlet, no room to
deploy, and surrounded on the same level and above by
a well-armed and brave enemy, outnumbering them at least
six to one. Had that stru^ling and seething mass been
in line formation and in the position they oug^t to have
occupied some four or five miles in advance they would
have done much better, and the day might have ended ta
their retaining part of their position ; but the odds were
always too heavy against them, being at least seven rifles
to one, sometimes more and sometimes less, according to
how the enemy was concentrated.
The enemy had still a lai^e reserve of ammunition at
the end of the day, about 3,000,000 rounds, while it is a
great question whether the Italians had enough cartridge*
to last them for many more hours, and certainly not eaoi^
to have enabled them to fight another big battle the next
day.
THE BATTLE OF ADOWA
2tl
Had Uie Italians gained the position, which they might
have done if the centre and reserves had not haitcd. their
ihicat six o'clock in the momiiif; would have extended from
Abba Garima mountain across the spur that connects this
DKwotain to the out-jutting south-south-east spur from the
Selado mountain, and they would have had about 6500 regular
troops in line with rifles, with twenty-six cannon, to defend a
front of about 3500 yards, llesidcs the regulars they had
about 2000 rifles of the native irregulars for crowning the
higher ground on Selado on which European troops cannot
manoeuvre, and they would have bad 4150 rifles belonging to
the regulars and twelve quick'iiring cannon in reserve, to
strengthen any part of this line. General Dabormtda would
have swung round the lower slope of Selado from the north
and joined with the right of the centre when they advanced
on to Adowa. The iLtlians would then have offered battle
on a ground which favoured them, and the Abyssinians
would have had to attack in the open and must have lost
very heavily before coming to close quarters, both from
artillcT)' and rifle 6rc, especially if the quick-liriiig artillery of
the reserve had been brought into the first fighting line;
Tlie Abyssinians only employed the quick-firers, and did
not make much use of their old Krupp and mountain guns
that they had taken in their former fights against the
Kgyptians,
The disaster wa3 a terrible one, but it might easily have
been greater. Early in the day, about ten o'clock, when the
battle was practically decided, Ras Aloula sent to the king
and asked for his Galla cavalry to send forward and cut 00
the retreat of the enemy. Owing to the horsedisease having
killed all the animals in Tigr6, Ras Aloula had only about
ten animals left, and on Holy Cross day in September, six
months and a half after the battle, Kas Mangcsha could
only muster at>out three hundred cavalr>'. At the fight he
had only about eighty present, so he bad no force at his
disposal that could carry out this manccuvrc. Had Ras
Aloula been allowed to use the king's cavalry for the purpose
of closing the passes on tlic line of retreat, which might
easily have been accomplished, the whole Italian army might
have been compelled to capitulate. By the afternoon the
noise of the battle had died far away out of earshot of
the Abyssinian encampment at Adowa, yet still the pursuit
continued, as the demoralised details of the Italian army fled
tor safet>- along the various roads. As the survivors arrived
m^
212 MODERN ABYSSINIA
across the Italian frontier, the panic spread throughout
Erithrea ; the Italian agricultural colonists established on the
Hamasen plateau tied to Asmara, and from there to Massowah,
and the civilian population, European and native, of Asmara.
Keren, and the surrounding villages, all flocked to the fortified
zone on the sea coast for protection.
The remnants of the army found their way to the fortresses
of Adi-Ugri near Goodofelasie, Asmara, Adi-Caia, at the top
of the Hadas pass (between Adi-Caia and Massowah), which
was speedily fortified. The only thing that prevented King
Menelek following up his complete victory was want of
provisions to feed his army and more numerous camp-
followers ; but had Ras Aloula been allowed to advance with
his army, strengthened by part of Ras Mangesha's force,
there is no doubt that the whole of the Hamasen plateau and
the Bogos province, with the exception of the fortified positions
of Adi-Ugri, Asmara and Keren, would have again fallen
into the hands of the Abyssiniaos, as they might have lived
by plunder, and the garrisons of these places were not
numerous enough to take the offensive ir the open, and it
would only have been a question of time how long their
provisions held out before iiiey would have to capitulate, as
it was hardly possible for reinforcements to have arrived
from Italy in time to relieve them.
The Italian force, immediately after the battle, was a
great deal too demoralised to offer any effective resistance,
and it was only the immediate despatch of reinforcements
from Italy that prevented the Kassala garrison being with-
drawn, and that place being again occupied by the Dervishes.
The day after the battle King Menelek could calculate
the cost of his victory and what he had gained by it He
had utterly defeated his enemy and taken about 4000
prisoners, Italian and native in about equal numbers ; among
the Italians were many officers and one General. The whole
of the Italian artillery, some sixty-five cannon, about 1 1,000
rifles (nearly ail the Italians had thrown their arms away in
the flight), all the commissariat and transport that was on the
field, besides that which was left behind at Entiscia Against
this he had to estimate a loss of between 5000 to 6000 killed,
and about 8000 badly wounded, of whom perhaps a quarter
died. The slightly wounded are not reckoned, only those
that were actually disabled. Adowa, Axum, Macalle and
Abbi-Addi, and many of the neighbouring villages were fiiU
of wounded when I visited them some moaths after tiie
THE BATTIJ5 OF A DOW A
213
'
I
battle ; nearly all of these would be cn'pples for life, the
bones of the arms and legs being shattered-
Amongst the Abyssinian slain were Keneutiatch (General
of the right wtng) Abcina and Kcnczmatch Tarcssa, kilted
by General Arimondi's brigade ; Dedjatchmatch (Duke)
Machacha and I-ituaris (commander of the advance guard)
Gabcyo, l-Iailou and TadaL Dedjatchmatch Bcshccr, King
Menclck's cousin, was very badly wounded.
The few days after the battle were spent in collecting the
plunder and dividing the Italian prisoners among the different
leaders, who were to be held responsible to the king for their
safe keeping. The Italian native prisonere, soldiers in the
Italian service who had fought ;^ainst the Abyssinians, were
tried by a council of war consisting of att the chief Abyssinian
leaders, and the horrible sentence of mutilation was passed ;
which Menetek sanctioned, after, it is said, great pressure
had been brought to bear upon him, he being greatly against
any harsh measures being used. The sentence of mutilation
— that is, the cutting off the right hand and left foot — is the
customary punishment for the oti'cnccs of theft, sacril^e
and trea»}n, of which many of these men were judged to be
clearly guilty. Those soldiers who had served at the defence
of Macalle had been warned of what punishment they would
receive if they were again found in arms against Abyssinia.
An Italian ofhcer of high rank, who had given his parole at
Macalle, was taken prisoner during the hght and was im-
mediately shot The punishment of the native Abyssinians,
according to the laws of the country, was perfectly just, bat
the horrible part was that the offence of the majority of the
prisoners was their first, and no distinction was made between
Moslem and Christian. There arc many Moslem soldiers in
Italian employ who have never been Abyssinian subjects,
and the harsh way in which they were treated ha.* made the
whole Mahomedan population of the north lasting enemies
to King Meneiek and to the Abyssinian Christians of the
south, and no doubt in tlie future they will have their
revenge.
The sentence was carried out in the different camps, but
nearly eight hundred of them were operated on at the same
place, on the slope from Frcmona down to the Assam Selado
river, and the severed hands and feet put in a pile. 1 saw it
when I visited Adowa, a rotting heap of ghastly remnants.
Tbe joint of wrist and ankle arc articulated and the stumps
plunged into boiling fat to stop tlie hiemorrhage ; the wound
214 MODERN ABYSSINIA
then heals over, and afterwards a piece of the stump of the
bone that is destroyed by the contact with the boiUng fat
comes away. I saw hundreds of these poor people who had
survived the operation, and I was enabled, after crossing the
Italian frontier, to send several of them back to their homes
in the Hamasen. The neighbourhood of Adowa was full of
their freshly dead bodies ; they had generally crawled to the
banks of the streams to quench their burning thirst, where
many of them lingered unattended and exposed to the
elements until death put an end to their sufferings. At
some places the bodies were close together, as if they had
sought comfort in one another's society, and the missing
members plainly told to whom the bodies belonged. In
Captain De Martino's house, that used to be the Italian
Residency, there must have been some thirty bodies of these
wretched people ; three at the well in the garden, where they
died, evidently trying to procure water, and in the small
summerhouse there were seven, six belonging to natives and
one to an Italian, and what a horrible death the last of them
must have suffered, surrounded by their dead companions.
The same day that the sentence was carried out, the
king's cousin, Dedjatchmatch Bcsheer, died of his wounds ;
and the moment his Shoan soldiers heard of his death, they
massacred in cold blood all the prisoners, Italians and natives,
that had been handed over to them by their master to take
to Shoa. The number killed was about three hundred, among
them being forty Italians ; these poor people were simply
butchered, cut down, speared or shot, and left in a heap in
what had been a zareeba. I had to pass it on several
occasions during my residence at Adowa, and, needless to
say, as quickly as possible. Nearly all the Italian dead and
some of the wounded also were mutilated, mostly by the
southern Abyssinians. It is a custom that has existed for
centuries and they justify it by the bible; saying that David,
the father of Solomon, proved his valour to King Saul in the
same manner, and that their king is a descendant of King
Solomon. A southern Abyssinian or Yejju maiden may stiU
be won by such specimens of valour, but the custom now is
not so much in vt^ue in northern Abyssinia.
The food supplies taken from the Italians enabled King
Menelek to remain a few days longer in Adowa ; most of his
soldiers, however, were hard pressed for food and many of
them were sent off south at once, and on their way to levy
tribute from the Azebu and other Gallas on the eastern slopes
THE BATTLE OF ADOWA
ai5
»
of tbe couatiy. This vss the agaai for all these people to
me snd dcTcnd their proper^, and the king's troops lost
heavily when makiitg tbcir raids ; these Gallas then retaliated,
ind King Mcnelek, wbco be got past Ainba-Ala(;i, was con-
stantly attacked, and several ei^;agcnients were fouf^ht with
various rcsolts, and many men were killed on each side*
The Abyssinian anny left by the two great southern rtwds;
the ones that took the wcstcra one were not molested, and,
marching throogh a richer country, did not suffer ; those thnt
took the eastern road returned home in nearly a starving
state-
To return to what immediately preceded the battle of
Adowa- The Italians held the h'ne of conntry between
Ad^T^ Enti&cto and Adi-Quala, where tliey could have
waited and acted on the defensive, and no doubt in their
fortified positjon would have been enabled to defeat any
attacks made on them by the whole combined Abyssinian
army. NcEOtiations for peace were being carried on up to
the eve of the battle. Then the now cclcbratcil mcHiuige
from the Italian Prime Minister, Sif:nor Crispi, to Grnerul
Baiatieri .-irrivcd complaining that the cami^^iign wus no
better than a " military phthisis," and urging more energetic
measures. It is hard to say what an English General would
have done under the drcumstances, but I doubt whether he
would have acted the *ame as General Baratieri did, even If
he had received fifty telegrams from a I'rimc Minister,
namely, to leave a place of safety and advance agairisl an
enemy whose strength he did not exactly know, but wii»
certain, according to his own Intelligence Department, that
outnumbered him at least four to one.
I was informed by an Italian officer of the Intclllgenco
Department that it had been reported to them that the
Abysstnians were short of ammunition, whereas It turned
out they bad plenty, and tlieir reserve of three million roundR
was never touched. The action of General Baiaticri also In
attacking King Meneiek white negotiations were going on
was hardly what an English General would do.
Of course General Baratien thought his attack would have
* Stnca wrilioc thU, Ru Maogetha ban ccutcd lo be llie relet of Tl^'V owdm
Ik tw omtacl DOl b«iiic BlUr»cloTV to Kii^ Menelck. Ras Mvicnnrn liai Umk
Mih Govono* Mkl len tUru. Edita Muni hu l>ccn cIiokii ■■ hta>l*<|tiiilfin |
tUi U a nnte|ical Ppiot, unl «*ml* iht Aiclni, Oulloii, ami ItanaLilt inldlns.
The country rnaod Eddi Mvni livery (criile *nH liuk food dinuUc. It I* ltd
■ilB •rwib'cati o( AmlM Al^i aitd eicfal Dulra «att of ihc EutUlboiiip o' AUate
mdNHiCl^nwl-
216 MODERN ABYSSINIA
been a complete surprise, and as S^^or Crispt, the Prime
Minister, wanted to meet his Parliament (which was dis-
contented with the policy in Erithrea) with a victory, no
reward for General Baratieri would have been too great had
he succeeded, and like a gamester he threw his dice for a b^
coup and lost A wait of five days in his secure position
would have served Italy just as well, as the Abyssinians
would have been forced to retire from the acfrth owing to
want of food ; and however clever the Abyssinian leaders are
in getting a large army together and handling them, they
have not as yet learnt the secret of feeding them, and untU
they do they are never likely in the long run to prove a match
for civilised commanders with a well-organised and sufficient
commissariat acting on the defensive.
The Abyssinian hordes are the same as the locust, thxy
live on what they can get from the surrounding country;
when they have devoured everything, they have to move Ml
to another place where supplies are procurable. At the out-
side an Abyssinian, who is not one of the regular soldiers,
can keep the field for a couple of months, and then be has to
take one transport animal with him, with a boy or girl,
generally the latter, to look after his ridii^ animal and to
cook his food. His rations will consist of dried mea^ flour
and red pepper, and at 3 lbs. weight of food per diem, gives
180 lbs. for two months; what with his kit bt^des, this is as
much as he and his animals can carry between them.
The regular troops are the same ; they have to bring
supplies with them, which they get from their leaders before
they set out on the campaign ; ^er these are finished, unless
fresh supplies come forward, they have to live on the country ;
and now the peasantry are so well armed, looting is not such
an easy matter as it used to be, as the peasants combine and
do not hesitate to use their firearms. When an Abyssinian
army is on the march, the camp followers and servants as a
rule are more numerous than the fighting men, and very often
number more than the double. The soldier does very little
work except fighting and plundering, and no leader in
Abyssinia dare try to put his men under severe discipline
and make them forego their camp followers and women.
King Johannes tried to do so before he became King of
Kings but did not succeed.
Kirkham, who was a sergeant in the army and served
with the late General Gordon in China, and was with the
Abyssinian expedition, was lent by Lord Napier to King
TUE BATTLE OF .VDOWA 217
Johannes. He drilled the Abyssiniana in European fashion,
but they would not do what he required them to, and insisted
on taking the field in their own way. They learnt to fire
volleys and concentrate their fire, which proved useful in
many of King Johannes' fights before he w<m the throne
He also had about three hundred black soldiers under
Kirkham, most of them had escaped into Abyssinia from tlie
Soudan «nd these proved good soldiers, and used to defeat ten
times their number with very Utile loss, but they were armed
with SnidcTsandKnfieldtingnin.st men mostly armed with spear
and shield and a certain number of old-fashioned smooth-bores.
The Abyssinians used to look upon Kirkham's drill lessons
as a huge joke, and the drill ground used to be crammed with
men and children looking on and passing uncomplimentary
remarks and imitating those that were being instructed. The
late Colonel Burnaby used to try and drill the scouts that I
raised for the late Baker Pasha in 1S83, and gave it up as a
bjid job as he could not improve on their manner of fighting.
The real cause of the Italian <iefeat wa», that Gcner^
Baraticri was tied to the telegraph station and sacrificed his
military duty, and most likely his better judgment for what
might be called an electioneering cry to plca.se his superiors
in Italy, and foolishly obeyed what tlicy telegraphed him.
He must have known at the time that unless he could make
1 complete surprise he was risking the lives of the troop*
under his command, and sending the last letter to King
Menelek on the eve of the battle was c\'idently intended to
make him think that no advance would be made, so that his
surprise atLick would have more chance of success. It is
what we should call very bad form and perhaps by a much
harsher word. Here is an instance of the presence of the
telegraph causing a disaster, and whatever may be its benefits
it has also its drawbacks, and I am not an advocate for
fighting battles that arc carried on in uncivilised parts from
cix-iliscd centres thousands of miles away. The general that
is in command and directs the movement of an army as
a rule, but not always, has won his post by his own ca]>a-
bilities and can thoroughly be trusted to do his best, so it is
very unwise to hamper him with Jastructions or to try and
make him fight a battle prematurely for political purposes. The
time will most likely come when liie truth will be known who
it was that induced General Baratieri to act in the way he
did ; it did not come out at his trial at Asmara, at which I
ms preseot, ami it was impossible to come to any decision on
218 MODERN ABYSSINIA
the subject in Erithrea at that period, nor was it possible to
get any true version of the details of the fight which could
only be studied on the spot, and this was one of the reasons
that induced me to risk going across the frontier, and findii^
out what the chief actors on the Abyssinian side had to say
on the subject.
I think that all the Abyssinian leaders were unanimous
in the opinion that the Italians would have been perfectly
safe had they remained at their position round Entisdo,
and the next position where a battle could have been fought
with some chance of success was the one that I pointed out
before, which could only be taken up tqr a surprise. The
Italian right and left wings carried out their part of the
manoeuvre, but the centre and reserve, although they had
plenty of time, failed to come on, and they were all caught at
a diKLdvantage, because they were unable to support each
other, and allowed the Abyssinian leaders to deal with them
in detail.
In Italy General Albertone has too often been made the
scapegoat for the whole disaster. It has been chained
against him that he was too far in advance, but this is not
the opinion of the Abyssinian leaders, as they say he formed
up in line of battle at the only place possible, and held out
much longer than any of the other generals. He could not
retire on Arimondi or the reserves under Ellena, because the
Abyssinians seeing the centre was not tn its place blocked
the road, and had he broken through, would have only added
to the confusion that already existed in that part of the field,
and entirely filled up the very limited area they had at their
disposal ; the trap would only have been fuller, and the
massacre would have still if possible been worse. If General
Dabormida had retired, which he might have done earlier in
the day, the Italian line of retreat would have been more
congested, and the loss would have been greater.
The opinion of Ras Aloula and many of the Abyssinian
generals was that it made very little difference what took place
the moment the Italians made their fatal advance, and if
they had made the surprise complete and lined the position,
they would still have been beaten and crushed, as they were
so outnumbered, and it was quite possible if they had required
to do so with the rapid movement of their men, to concentrate
fifteen rifles to one on any part of the position, and the
Italians could not in their formation, reinforce the diRerent
points quick enough, nor had they the chance with the force at
THE BATTLE OF ADOWA
219
disposal to storm at any time with success the heights
on wfaich the camps were situated. I perfectly agree with
their opinion, and the loss to both sides would then have
been too terrible to contemplate, and the fate of the wounded
most awful.
The Abyssinians acknowledge that they won the victory
very cheaply, and if Arimondi and Ellena had arrived at the
place where they ought to have been, that tlicy would have
suflTered a terrible lo^. From their spies they knew all
about the Italian force and its movements, whereas the
Italians knew but little of their enemy's, and General
Baraticri had a very bad name at Adowa, owing to the
cruelties that took place when he first occupied the town of
Adowa, and no one was likely to volunteer him any valuable
information, and here was an example of the Intelligence
Department listening to pleasant information and believing
in il, and not taking every precaution to get proper and
trustworthy news. I know for a fact that when the truth
V3S told diem b>' one person who ought certainly to have
been listened to, as his general veracity on the resources of
the country was well known, he was ignored and they
actually started on their march, believing that they were
going to meet a force of 70,OCX) rifles, which they had every
reason to believe would be scattered over a large area
extending to Axum, and with a scarcity of ammunition,
instead of one of 1 20,000 rifles with plenty of cartridges with
the soldiers and a very laige reserve.
I never heard from the Abys.sinians, from the leading
men down to the private soldier, one word of dispar^e-
ment offered against the Italians under Generals Albertone,
Arimondi and Dabormida ; on the contrary they were all
loud in their praise in fighting so bravely i^ainst such over-
whelming odds. They said that Albertone only surrendered
after his artilkT>'mcn had shot away all their ammunition,
and nearly everjone of his battery mules was killed, this I
can confirm as I saw their bodies still unburied behind the
ridge that the guns occupied, and nearly all the infantry had
hareily a cartridge left for their rifles; he had also lost the
majority of his oflficers either killed or wounded, they being
the first marked out by the Abyssinians. and fire concentrated
on them .it once. Arimondi was killed at the head of his
brave Italian troops, doing all he could to cover the retreat,
and the fate of Dabormida was tragic. He was in the thick
of the fighting during the retreat of his force, and I met at
220 MODERN ABYSSINIA
Adese Ababa the man who shot him. At the moment
Dabonnida had just shot three men with his revolver, he
then shot at my informant and missed him. The Abyssinian
got behind a tree, and when Dabormida turned to face
another of his enemies he shot him dead, hitting him between
the shoulder blades and he immediately pitch^ forward and
died. This man carried off the General's sword, phott^raphs,
pocket-book and some other property, and afterwards sold
them to an Italian officer who was a prisoner at Adese Ababa.
With regard to General Baratieri's position during the
battle, Ras Mangesha, Ras Aloula, and Ras Hagos of the
Tembien were all most anxious to capture him, and had
given orders to their officers andlmen to find him out In
vain did they look for his flag, marking his position on the
field. His flag was never hoisted, and neither friend nor foe
knew in what part of the field to look for him. Sometime
after his retreat it was seen by the Abyssinians, being carried
far away in the rear, evidently to attract the attention of the
stra^lers as a rallying point to cover the retreat It was
followed for sometime, but the General and his followers had
too long a start, and the Abyssinians could not come up with
them. Had the Tigrean army had any cavalry like in former
times, they would no doubt have captured the General and
his staff and many more prisoners.
For nearly five years Ras Aloula had been anxious to
get hold of General Baratieri, who had taken his houses,
lands, and property, not only in the Hamasen but in Tigr£
as well ; the only house that had been spared was that in
Axum, the Italians owing to the sacred nature of the town
not daring to plunder this place, as they would have
altogether lost the confidence of the entire Abyssinian people
which they wished partly to retain. The escape of General
Baratieri for Ras Aloula was a great blow as no doubt he
would have held him for a very high ransom.
The war indemnity paid by the Italians was all taken by
King Menelek, and I have not heard up till the present that
any of the northern leaders received any part of the money,
although they were the chief sufferers by the war, and bore
the brunt of the fighting. This I have heard has caused
great discontent amongst high and low, and it is not at all
unlikely, that it will bear fruit in the future, and make the
northerners more eager to improve their present condition,
when an opportunity arises, so that they may enjoy the
benefits of the same good and stable govenmient that thdr
THE BATTLE OF ADOWA
221
□dgtibours and compatriots now do in Erithrea under the
Italian Government.
A short description here will not be out of place of the
Ab>-ssinian ronnatioa of attack and the way in which their
anny is arranged ; in Appendix No. VIII. will be found the
Abyssinian names of their commanders and principal officials.
The formation of their camps is nearly always the same, and
it will be seen that it forms a cross, and no matter in which
way it is attacked the force can always act in the same
manner, but the leading troops, under the Fituari or com-
mandcr of the advance guard, become either right or left
wing or rcs«r%'c as the ciisc may be, and the other com-
manders the :<amc. The leader, be it king, Ras, or Dedjaz-
match in command, has alwiiys the most troops and he
encamps in the centre and rear witli a force on his right
under a Kenezmatch or commander of the right wing, a
force on hLs left under a Gcrazmatch or commander of the
left wing, and in front a Fituari or commander of the ad-
vance guard. They do not have a title for rear guard as no
soldier would wish to have such an unenviable position, but
it is generally under an Asmatch or general of division.
These different forces are also divided into the same cross
formation- The camp followers and non-fighting men and
women encamp round the soldiers, and they arc all more or
lc» mixed up together. The horses and mules are also
picketed near their owners' tents or camp-fire, and to a
European onlooker the camp seems to be in a state of con-
fusion, and no doubt a night attack on Jt by European troops
would very likely succeed, especially if machine guns and
artillery could be brought to bear.
The Abyssinians like the Dervishes never attack in large
forces at night time although they will keep up a,harassing fire
with a small force at a long distance. They w<ike, however,
long before daylight, and in the early grey of the morning
they arc astir and ready to take the field as soon as it is light,
and order soon reigns out of the apparent chaos. It is not
to be supiKised tliat they will not march at night, as one of
their favourite man<Euvrcs is to leave a few people to keep
their watch-fires burning all night, and start comparatively
early in the evening so as to make a long march to cut this
lines of communication of an invading army and throw an
overwhelming force on any weak point the moment after
daybreak.
In olden days, amongst themselves before guns were
222 MODERN ABYSSINIA
common, the infantry used to fight in phalanx formation,
the few gunners being placed in rear of each comer and
centre of the sides and protected by men with spears and
shields so that they might load their pieces in safety after they
v?ere discharged. The cavalry are the first to eng^e, and if
defeated seek refuge behind the phalanx, trying to bring
their pursuers in range of those that are armed with guns ;
however, this kind of warfare is nearly obsolete, and en-
tirely so gainst Europeans or natives armed with modem
weapons.
They now try to surround an invading army, and when
the manceuvre is carried out, advance towards the centre
making use of every bit of cover possible, and then simul-
taneously the whole force will attack and try to get to close
quarters and then discard their rifles for the shield and sword
which they always wear on the right side. As soon as the
close attack conamences, the mounted lancers will come up
and hurl their throwing spears over the heads of the infantry
and thereby help to break down the defence of the enemy.
The circle round the invading force is formed at first by
the troops of the Fituari dividing into two partiesjand making
a wide detour round the flanks of the enemy to get to the
rear. These parties will be followed at a short distance by
the right and left wings advancing to get well on and a little
round each flank, while the centre and reserve advance against
the enemy's centre. The movement will be carried out at a
steady trot and at a good distance from the enemy's position,
and it will be covered by a cloud of skirmishers always
steadily advancing under cover when possible. In a country
of the nature of Abyssinia, which can only be manceuvred
over so slowly by European infantry, it is very difficult to
prevent the defenders of the country from carrying out their
formation, and it could only be checked by mountnl infantry
and artillery. The latter would have to be mountain batteries
of quick firers, as horse artillery could not be got over these
very broken and rocky paths, and would have to keep to the
high roads. Cavalry would be useful on the line of com-
munications, and if a battle was fought on the open downs or
in the broad cultivated valleys they might be employed, but
the Abyssinians need never offer battle in country unfavour-
able to themselves, and would most likely fight in the difllerent
belts of thick bush which cover the numerous ranges of
broken boulder-strewn hills.
With regard to the towns in Abyssinia, there are, I am-
THE BATTLE OF ADOWA
223
stder, only three that are worth ttking and holding, those are
Adowa and Axum in the north and Harar in the .wuth, and
if these were in the hands of an invader it would give him a
great prestige us Adowa and Harar arc the two principal
mercantile towns for the north and south respectively, and
Axum is the chief ancient sacred town where all kings of the
country should be crowned, and it also contains the old
historical buildings and nearly all the most valued archives.
The present ruler keeps such a large standing armj' in his
near vicinity which of course attracts such a large non-figbt-
ing population as well that a time soon arrives when fire-
wood for cooking purposes ceases to exist, and a fresh town
in a wooded vicinity has to be choften. Within the last few
years the capital has been changed from Ancobar to Entotto,
and from Kntotto to Adcse Ababa, and it will have shortly
to be removed to some other place as the fuel supply is giving
out, and the Abyssinian bums a very large quantity of fire-
wood. During Holy Cross week in September, when there
is the annual muster of the soldiers from all the surrounding
districts, the soldiers think nothing of destroying fences, un-
roofing the houses of the poor, or cutting down the few
remaining sliade trees to supply themselves with fucL When
the king can do without a b^ standing army this question will
right itself, or when he considers himself strong enough to
live without a lai^e standing army in a more fertile and
better wooded country than the bleak wind-swept downs of
Shoa. The late King Johannes never kept the lai^e army
that his successor docs, although he could put more men
into the field than King Mcnclck, and he always lived in a
very fertile and well wooded district.
At present the Abyssinians are not to be so much feared.
The invader, if he can once enter and seize a position and
fortify it, and has a sufficient quantity of quick-nring cannon
and machine guns, with ample ammunition for both, to
defend it a.<i it remains to be seen how long their soldiers
could stand punishment in attacking a strongly defended
position. They have any amount of pluck, and are very
resourceful in expedients, but up till the present thej- have
not suflicicnt modem artillery to silence an invader's guns if
properly worked. The present ruler has the money and
can procure anything from the French who will always be
glad to teach his soldiers to handle any new weapon that he
require*, and if King Menelek forttties the passes leading
into bis country, as Qie French have already given out, the
RF-
224 MODERN ABYSSINIA
invasion of Abyssinia will become a very difficult under-
taking.
The only remaining problem is to team how to Ceed a
lai^ standing army on a long campaign, and this King
Menelek cannot as yet do except in his own country. He
has a number of large granaries in many parts of his own
dominions, and of course these are easily added to and filled
by more land being put under cultivation, or by a heavy tax
in kind on the grain grown by the peasantry. The Egyptians,
when they were at Harar, increased the ancient underground
granaries that existed when they took the town, and they
could easily keep a stock sufficient to feed ten thousand
soldiers for a year or more. Should this system be extended
to all the provinces, there is more than sufficient transport
in the country to keep these depdts filled, and a large army
could then be kept not only on the frontier bat act on the
offensive in the lower countries as well.
It was no idle threat of the late King Johannes when he
told the late Khalifa that he would proceed to Khartoum.
The first step was to Gallabat, and that once tn his hands it
would have served as a depdt for his grain supplies that
could have reached there unmolested from any part of
Western Abyssinia, and his advance could have been made
down the Rahad river and Blue Nile to Khartoum in the
following cool season.
What Kii^ Johannes was capable of accomplishing might
be done by his successor, and with semi-European help
and the advice of ambitious foreigners that surround him,
Abyssinia would be a powerful enemy. The great dat^er
to an unpopular king attempting such an expedition would
be in the absence of the army, a rising of an oppressed
peasantry, backed up by some European power to put
down the military party. The arming of the peasantry and
farmer class with modern weapons has not altogether been
a blessing to the present ruler, and may end not only in his
downfall but by that of the barons as well. The constant
stream of arms that is being allowed into the country is a
menace to the peace of North-Eastem Africa, and it is only
to be hoped that they will not be used for any hostile
purpose against the neighbouring countries, and delay the
pacification of this part of Africa which sadly wants a long
scries of quiet years to regain its ancient commercial standing
and importance.
The future of Abyssinia will be a most interesting one to
i
THE BATTLE OF ADOWA 225
watch, and whether the power that is now in the hands of
the present ruler will be used for the good of his country
or for his own private ends. Its large military force in
unfriendly hands might prove a great danger to the Soudan
and Erithrea, and it must not be judged on the basis of our
battles against the Mahdi, the experience gained in that
country, so easily manceuvred over, would be of little use
f^inst these hardy mountaineers, and it must be re-
membered that they also gained their victories over the
Dervishes with the greatest of ease when they were aot
nearly so well armed as they are now, and it cannot be
expected that they will come out into the open and allow
themselves to be shot down, as the Arabs did in all the
fights in the Soudan.
P
CHAPTER X
BUILDINGS AND THEIR INHABITANTS
IT is very difficult to say from where the Abyssinian
adopted his architecture and the plan of building his
house ; that he has receded instead of having advanced in
the art of buildinf;, ts evident from the ruins of the old
houses and from the very few perfect specimens that arc
still to be found in the north and central parts of the country.
The desi[jn of the majority of the buildings seems to have
originated from the circular stick and straw hut of the more
savage and less civilised African, and copied in stone on an
enlarged scale, with an improvement in thatching, necessitated
1^ the colder climate and the heavy rains, so as to keep the
more valuable property possessed from getting spoilt
The savage African has no property that can be spoilt
by getting damp and the Abyssinian has; the former builds
a smaller, similar house to the one he lives in within his
dwelling to store his grain in, which he thatches, and he
plasters its sides with mud to prevent the contents getting
spoilt, and the rats and mice from eating the com. The
Abys.sinian docs precisely the same with his grain store, but
he docs not cover it, and he al&o hangs motit of his property
on the walls of his house or in niches made in the walls.
The circular house is used from the kings and princes
downwards to the lowest member of the community. Then
there is the square or rectangular house with a pitched,
thatched roof which is common all over the country, and a
compromise between the two, namely, two parallel walls
with rounded ends, and la.HtIy, the flat-roofed houses of
one or two stories in height besides the ground floor. The
square, (lat-roofcd houses arc, 1 believe, nearly as ancient as
those with the circular roofs, as the majority of them are
found in the north, and the foundations of the old rultu
of Koheita and Axum arc nearly all square or rectangular;
but some circular ones arc found, so it must be a matter of
conjecture which of the two arc the most ancient.
BUTLDmGS AOT3 INHABITANTS 227
The churches are all circular with the exception of those
built by the Jesuits, and the remains of the old temples of
the ancients are rectangular.
The dwelling-houses btiilt of circular shape are sometimes
very large, and the following description of the town house
and grounds at Adowa, belonging to Leclj Mertcha, the late
King Johannes' envoy to Her Majesty the Queen in 18S4,
will give a good idea of what Uie well-to-do classes in the
country' live in. His house is a t}'pical one, but there are
many of them better arranged, and enclosures tliat contain
more buildings, and some of the properties of tlie big
officials in the country outside the towns cover an immense
area.
Lcdj Mcrtcha's property is above thirty yards by fifty
yards in measurement, .ind is surrounded by a well-built stone
wall about twelve feet in height. The entrance into the en-
closure is by a door made out of strong planks of the Wanza
tree, or any other suitable timber, such as the sycamore
fig, or juniper. The doors of these outer enclosures are
generally very strongly made and some three or four inches
thick, and always open inwards, presenting a smooth surface
to the road. They arc generally closed with two hcavj- bars
of very strong wood, so great strength would have to be
used to break them open. There arc no hinges and tlic side
frames are in one piece and fit into holes in the lintel and
floor plates, which arc gcticrally massive baulks of timber.
The door opens into a porch which is generally used as a
stable or cow-house, and sometimes it is fitted with a couple
of scats or beds where the lower servants sleep.
The first courtyard is used for keeping the cattle in, and
perhaps there are a couple of shed.4 in it, to whicli the cattle
can retire during the rainy season. The court>-ard in the
dry season is always horribly dirty, and during tlie wet is
sometimes eighteen inches or two feet deep in stinking mire ;
stepping stones arc placed across the courtyard, so the
Inhabitants can cross without getting dirty.
The dwelling-houses perhaps make up the other t%vo sides
of the enclosure, and if tliey do not quite touch, will be joined
by a fence or some bush, so as to prevent the cattle from
entering into the garden or going on to the portion of a fairly
clean floor which is always found within the enclosures.
This floor is always made of common earth tightly beaten
dovn, and it serves for many purposes, and it is in fine
weather the place where the majority of the household
228 MODERN ABYSSINIA
work is done, such as preparing and cleaning the grain for
grindit^, and various other duties which necessitate a strong
light It is a playing place for the small children, and the
rendezvous for all the inmates of the enclosure, chickens,
cats, puppies, Iambs and kids as well.
The other part of the ground not taken up by the houses
will be devoted to useful garden plants and vegetables, such
as potatoes, onions, garlic and herbs, with perhaps a few peach,
fig, banana and pomegranate trees. Pumpkins are trained
up the sides of the house, their heavy fruit resting on the
roof. The first of the big circular houses, which is used
chiefly by the men, may be about thirty to forty feet in
diameter. The outside walls will be about ten to twelve feet
In height and at least two feet in thickness ; they are built of
undressed stones which come from the nearest mountain,
and they generally have one flat and smooth side, which is
placed outwards, and the interstices between them are lilled
with small stones and well-kneaded stifl* clay. Spaces are
left for two doors and two windows, which are generally equi-
distant from each other, one of the doors opening into the
outer yard, the other into the inner yard or garden.
Inside walls are built from five to six feet from the outer
wall, and would represent four portions of a s^ment of a
circle, and, as they are higher than the outside wall, they
help to support the roof; the rafters of which protrude for
about three feet from the outer wall, and all meet in the
centre of the building. The rafters are then bound tc^ether,
commencing from tihe bottom, by ties made from some
pliable wood, and then continued in tiers, about two feet
apart, till the apex of the roof is reached, and when this is
secured the whole construction is very strong and will
support a great weight. The rafters and ties are generally
most neatly worked and generally covered with diflerent
coloured cloth or painted. They look very well at first, but
soon get dirty, and then they do not look well until the
whole gets a perfect dark mahogany colour from age. The
thatch, which is made of straw or rushes, is about eighteen
inches or two feet in depth, and is kept in position by bands
of the same material. The top of the house outside is capped
with an earthenware or wooden crown surmounted usually
with an eight-pointed cross or some fanciful design. The
Abyssinians thatch most beautifully, and their roofs are
always watertight The spaces between the outer and inner
walls are used for various purposes ; they make four ixkhiui,
BUILDINGS AND INHABITANTS 229
wbici) may be subdivided, and then there are eight divisions.
Perhaps the two on each side of the door leading into the
outer yard will be used as stables for the riding mules
and horses, and two others for storing forage in ; the other
rooms as stores for grain, flour and other food and household
effects. The space between the two windows will be raised
about a foot above the main floor, which is made of hard
clay and beaten down level. The walls will also be plastered
with clay and tinely<hoppcd straw, and perhaps white-washed
or coloured a chrome yellow.
On the raised platform bet»-ecn the windows the native
bedsteads are placed ; they are of exactly the Mme construction
AS found throughout Hgypt, Arabia and the East. During
the daytime the bedding will be removed and Persian rugs
or some gaudy carpet will be covered over them, and here
the owner of the house receives his visitors, takes his meals
and transacts his business. The doors are of the same de-
scription as the outer one already mentioned, but generally
open outwards ; and the windows, which are generally very
small, are guileless of glass, which is not used in the country,
and are closed at night with shutters. The adze is the usual
tool used for smoothing woodwork, and the carpenters of
the country turn out sometimes most excellent work with
this instrument, including the making of Arabesque arches
and pillars, which are sometimes fouml as ornaments in the
better-class houses.
The furniture in the houses consists of a few chests used
for storing things in and which serve as seats, a few wooden
stools of rough workmanship, a low table or two to hold the
tray on which the meals are served. Cow-horns arc let into
the walls as pegs to hang the arms, such as swords, spears,
shields and guns, and the saddlery upon, and niches in the
walls to place things in. Sometimes the recesses made, which
face the windows, have curtains which can be drawn across
so as to give a little privacy, but the whole furnishing is of
the most meagre description. Rushes with a slightly aromatic
odour or fresh grass are sometimes strewn upon the floor when
an honoured guest is expected, or a dinner or supper party is
given. These rushes or the grass when they are dry get full
of fleas, which hide in the hollow stalks during the day, and
come out at night-time and work their wicked will on any
European who is obliged to .sleep inside the house.
It will be seen that the litting.s of the house that is used
in the dajtime are not numerous ; but still the interior looks
230 MODERN ABYSSINIA
well when it is thoroaghly clean, and the arms tastefully
arranged in trophies along the walls, and the scats and
cushions covered with br^ht siiks, Persian rugs over part of
the floor and the rest covered with freshly gathered rushes. A
curious accompaniment are the heads of the mules and boises
sticking out of their stables, and on guest-days they generally
have their gaudy headstalls on, which are richly and hand-
somely ornamented with silver. These animals that live in
the house are always kept for riding purposes, and the only
exercise they take is when they are sent morning and evening
to the water. The flooring of the stalls is made of rough
stones, and a small hole through the outside of the walls is
the only drainage. Naturally mere is always a bad smell in
the house the moment the doors and windows are closed,
and towards daylight in the morning, owing to there being
no ventilation except through the ill-fitting windows and
doors, the atmosphere becomes somethii^ disgusting.
The second house belonging to the establishment is
generally kept for the women and servants ; it will be
slightly smaller and perhaps have only one door and a
couple of windows and no inner wslU, and will be supplied
with an upper story. The lower room will be about nine
feet high. The flooring of the upper story will be supported
by several stout posts, and the walls of the top room may be
four to five Feet in height, on which is placed the same kind
of roof as that of the men's house. Communication with the
upper story is generally by an outside stone staircase that
leads to a small square terrace on which a door opens from
the top room. Under this outer square terrace and the stair-
case is a room which may be used for keeping the chickens,
sheep and goats in. The bottom floor of the house will be
used as the kitchen and for performing the household work,
such as grinding the com, baking, making the hydromel,
spinning the cotton-thread preparatory to weaving, and for
all the general household avocations. The upper story will be
reserved for the mistress of the house and her sisters and her
cousins and her aunts, and any other unmarried female rela-
tion belonging to the husband. I never can make out where
all the Abyssinian's female relations come from ; he only has
one wife, and she as a rule takes great care not to allow him
to live like a Mahomedan.
As long as times are good and food is not scarce it Is all
right, but in famine time it is very hard work to feed such a
lot of mouths, and a good deal of misery takes place. A
rniNGS AXD INHABITA?^
231
number of children and a number of serviUiU in Aby:Minia is
nearly always a sign of wealth, as there are more hiuids to
do the work, and more ground can be put under cultivation.
There are no expenses for education and no foreign luxuries
to be purchased, and clothing is but a smM item, a yard or
two of Manchester cloth making the children's dresses, which
are not elaborate. Curiously with patriarchal people living
in communities a large family is a source of wealth ; just the
reverse to what it is in England.
Some villages in Abyssinia are composed entirely of one
family, four and five generations being alive at the same
time ; the first house in the village being built by a married
couple who cultivated a few acres, and they increase and
multiply till perhaps tliirty or forty good houses have sprung
up, with a church and perhaps a thousand acres or more put
under cultivation. These large families are also found in
the Soudan amongst the wandering shepherds, and a good
example is the Digni family, to which our old friend Osman
I>igna belongs, and the Abdul Rahmanab tribe started by one
called Abdul Rahman ; lots of examples could be given if re-
quired of tribes springing from one man and his numerous wives.
The up[>er story or the women's quarters are just as poorly
fumLihed as the men's; a few beds and boxes, and heaps
of raw cotton or unclcancd sheep's wool and goat's hair,
and the floor covered with a few tanned ox hides with the
hair oft, and some dressed sheep or goat skins with the wool
or hair left on. These light skins arc made into bags to
contain all sorts of household belongings, and grain and
drugs, or any odds and ends tliat may prove useful
The Abyssinian houses arc generally very dirty, and
swarm with vermin of all sorts and of the worst kinds ; and, as
I know to my cost, domestic and j^rsonal insects are to be
got either in the king's palace or in the peajtants" huts. It
is only those Abyssinians that have traveUcd, or been
servants to Kuro[ieans, that keep their houses fairly clean
and set a better example, which one would think would be
followed with avidity by all ; they have been taught the
benefits of cleanliness and really sec its utUit>', so they
practise it and they wear properly washed linen and will
undress themselves before they go to bed. and during the
hot weather will bathe daily, and wash their hands and faces
ceit^nly once a day during the cold season. This is a scale
of decency that compares well with the majority of the lower
class Continental Kun^an.
232 MODERN ABYSSINIA
The peasants' houses of circular form are not nearly so
good as the one I liave just described, and the famtty will
vety likely all live together in one room ; perhaps about
one half of the floor will be raised about two feet h^her than
the other, and on it will be another raised divan mailing
round the walls ; there will be one door, and perhaps a
window, but not always. The cooking will be done on the
centre of the raised floor, and the lower floor at night-time
will be filled with the favourite animals, if there is not enough
room for them in the outhouses. By force, owii^ to having
been storm bound, I have been compelled to remain a night
in such a house, and the miseries of the long hours passed
are still fresh in my memory. The fusty air, the myriads
of fleas and bugs, who only seem too delighted to get hold
of a thin-skinned European, with a new brand of blood to
sample, made sleep impossible, and every moment between
the heavy showers and thunderstorms I used to seek refuge
in the courtyard, only to be driven in again by the next
rain. I thought morning never would come, and how
welcome was the first steel^rey colour in the eastern
heavens, giving signs of the coming daylight
The peasants used to oflfer every hospitality, giving me
perhaps the only native bedstead they possessed, and their
cleanest and newest tanned skin, while they all slept on
the raised divan, and looked, wrapped up in their once white
shammas and clothes, like mouldy corpses. The only light
would be from the expiring embers of the wood fire, which
would suddenly flare up when some partly consumed log
would fall down, and then the cows and other animals could
be seen for a short time, or a line of chickens asleep on
some beam. Anything moving would be of interest, and
watching the rats and mice playing about the floor, or
picking up odd grains of com, would be a most exciting
incident in the long watches of the night Then the Are
would die down again, and there would be only the red
glare of the embers ; and then I listened to the subdued
noise of the cows chewing the cud, the snort of a mule, a
temporary change of position among the goats and kids,
with a little free butting ; or father Abyssinian commenced
to snore, some female began muttering in her sleep, or one
of the children had a bad dream and woke with a scream,
and then finding there was nothing wrong, turned over and
went to sleep again. One cannot smoke all night, and the
amusement of bug spearing with a long thorn on the ox
BUILDINGS AND INHABITANTS 233
skin (for a prairie) tbat covers the bedstead (this is capital
sport to pass away the time, and one soon gets expert at
it) unfortunately can only be carried on when the fire
burns up brightly ; so one »its and doses till at last one is
startled out of a half sleep by the flapping of wings and the
crowing of the cock, a sure sign that day is near ; then some
of the mouldy corpses commence to unwind, which generally
prove to be women, who are generally up long before the
tncn, and they set about their daily avocations. One could
spin a rather good yam about the flapping of these wings,
and the people getting up after the night of purgatory, but
one had better not. I have always welcomed my camp or
tlie advent of my lu^a^je after a night spent in a native
but
The square houses, if belonging to the peasftntry, are
arranged exactly the same as the circular ones, with the
raised platform at one end, and the rest of the space given
up to the cattle The wickerwork receptacles pl.istcfcd
with mud to contain tlic grain are always placed in tlic
inhabited part of the room. When a peasant commences
to be rich enough to add to his house, he generally builds
a room on the top, if it is flat-roofed, or a new house if it
Is one with a pitched roof, as it entails taking it down
and great labour to put it up again, and then the old house
is given up entirely to the animals. The staircase up to the
top room or rooms is always built from the outside, and if
the whole of the roof is not taken up with tlie new additions,
it is used for tlie same household purposes as the beaten
open floor mentioned before.
The moment tlic cattle are led out in the morning, which
is hardly ever before sunrise, or if a dull morning perhaps
a couple of hours after it gets light, the house is cleajicd
out, which it needs badly. It is easily understood if any
epidemic disease among the cattle is prevalent in the country,
how easily it is spread, and what ravages it will commit
when the beasts are herded tofjether in the dwelling-houses,
and DO proper cleansing of their ill-ventilated shelter ever
takes place. The Abyssinian is a fairly healthy subject,
bat when cholera breaks out, which is rare, and tlie bubonic
plague, which takes the form of bubonic fever, rarer still,
what a chance there is of infection, A merciful providence
spares the country from these visitations, and perhaps the
only disease whidi may be considered to be very fatal is
the small-pox, and that only among the unvaccinatcd.
234 MODERN ABYSSINIA
The Abyssinian is not nearly such a fool as r^ards
vaccination as some of the English fanatics ; he has had
experience of many epidemics, and has seen the terrible
ravages caused by this loathsome complaint amoi^ those
that have never had the chance of being vaccinated, when
perhaps ninety per cent of those that have not been operated
on die, and the majority of those that recover are marked
for life or sightless; while those that have been to the sea
coast and have been fortunate enough to have been vaccinated
escape altogether, or perhaps only three or four per cent of
those taken with it die. I do not believe there is any naticMi
that are more willing to put themselves under the doctor's
care than these Abyssinians, but they want the medicine
and the attendance for nothing. At present they have not
the money to pay with, but if they get the least better for
the treatment they receive they overwhelm the doctor with
presents, and in one morning he will be brought food enough
to last him for a couple of months. A doctor, if he was a
good all round man and a good sportsman, might have a
fine time in the country and live for next to nothing, and
certainly get a rapid insight into tropical and other diseases.
Before going on to describe any more of the Abyssinian
dwellings and mentioning the details of the houses, it murt
be said, that from the highest class to the lowest, their
houses are utterly devoid of any ventilation except what
is given by the doors and windows ; and for the whole year
round the door will be closed during the n^ht, and only
in the hot season, which lasts for three to five months, will
the windows be left open. With ninety-nine out of every
hundred houses, drainage and sanitary arrangements absolutely
do not exist in any form or shape, and the people are not
as decent as the domestic cat in their habits.
My old friend Ras Aloula lent me his private house
at Axum for a month on one of my visits there, and an
account of it will serve as a fair example of the kind of dwell-
ing generally used by the highest classes of the country.
The dwelling-house was well built and circular in form, with
two doors and four windows ; the latter being iaige double
windows which let in plenty of air and light, their dimen-
sion being about six feet in height by about eight feet in
breadth. The sashes were made of the wood of the Wanza
tree of a nice dark brown colour, and their arched tops were
arabesque in pattern. The broad window sills were about
three feet from the floor, and made of the same wood, and
BUILDINGS AND INHABITANTS 235
with a few soft cushions served as excellent seats. The doors
were also double, and of the same arched pattern as the
windows. There was no inner circular wait, but a division
was fomicd by two out-juttint; walls, which took up about
two-third<t of the diameter of the roonn, and from a beam
running between them hung two red cloth curtains, which
when drawn divided the room into two parts and gave
privacy.
I used to occupy the furthest pArt, and my door opened
on to a smooth grass lawn, .shaded by a sycamore fig tree,
while other common fig trees, pomegranates, and limes were
planted round the walls of the enclosure. Fart of the lawn
was taken up by one of the large fallen can-cd stone obelisks
80 common at Axum and of which so Uttic is known, and
their history will be an interesting one when full details of
them arc found out The house was thirty-six feet in inside
dLimeter, the roof very lofty and beautifully made, and the
rafters and ties decorated with dark blue and red cloth,
and was supported by a circle of round wooden pillars made
from juniper timber, neatly smoothed with the adze The
furniture consisted of a clean wooden Indian sofa and a
native bedstead, and were covered with very old and valuable
Persian rugs, and on the floor were Indian and Persian
carpets. In this room I spent a very agreeable time, one of
the pleasantest ever passed in Abyssinia
At Axum my day was taken up by walks in the early
mornings and afternoons, visiting the ruins and sights of the
place, and the rest in receiving visitors and talking about
AbyssinuL Unfortunately I did not return to Axum, and I
left many notes and a collection of curiosities there which
1 shall never see again.
Besides the dwelling-house there were two other buildings
nearly the same size, one used as a kitchen, which for an
Abyssinian one was very clean and well kept, and the other
as a servants' house. The latter was divided off by walls
running out from the sides of the house into four rooms, with
a passage between each, and as the passages were at right
angles to each other they formed a cross. This is a curious
feature in the internal arrar^ements of most of the houses
inhabited by Chri.stian Abyssinians, and is seldom or ever
found in those occupied by Mahomedans. At the end of
each passage, over the doors and windows, are very often
hung pictures of our Lord, the Virgin Mary, or of some
saint; St George killing the dragon being one of the
236 MODERN ABYSSINIA
cooimonest Tfaese pkbues are gmenlly coknred prints
brougfat from Jerusalem, or the work of soaie nalne artist.
These two houses were about fifteen yards frotn the frcmt
door of the dwelling-hoose, and between than and the fnxit
gate of the enclosure, arranged along the wall^ the stables
and storehouses were situated, frnmed by a wall beii^ built
parallel to the big wall of the enclosore. These stordbooses
and stables were neatly thatched with straw or rush grass,
and looked very well and in keeping with the other erections
in the compound. The enclosure was altogether about one
hundred yards in depth by about seven^ yards in breadth,
and about an acre and a half in extent.
The entrance opened on to the main street <rf' Axnm,
vis'd-vis to the church and sanctuary, and a description of
this will complete the account of this establishment Tlie
double doors open inwards, so that they can be easily
barricaded ; on each side through the masonry of the wall,
is a loop hole which can be used in defence of tlie gat&
The doors open into a big porch, with a room on eadi side
where the guardians stop during the day, above the ponh
is either one big room or several smaller ones, in which
during disturbed times a guard of soldiers can be placed.
The two side rooms of the porch project about a yaid each
side of the gate, and the upper room projects still further.
Over the gate, and immediately above the entrance, there are
holes in the floor through which, in case of attack, boiling
water or hot fat can be poured on those attempting to force
a way through.
I have occasionally seen some noisy b^^ar, who has been
knocking at the gate demanding alms, and refusing to go
away when told, get a utensil full of dirty water upset over
him through these holes, and it has nearly always the effect
of driving him away, much, to the delight of the small
children standing round. The upper room above the poich
is also loop-holed all round, and from its height it commands
the walls of the enclosure, so any heads of people trying to
scale the walls .offer a good mark to those that are defending
it. One very seldom sees flanking towers in these enclosures ;
but the guard-house I have attempted to describe will be
repeated in the centre of each wall if the enclosure stands by
itself, and perhaps a series of them will be together wiUi
adjoining walls, so the other houses will make with their
overhanging guard-houses the de!-"*^ '"mplete.
The description of the C lestorian Christian
BUILDINGS AND INHABITANTS 237
houses of Kurdistan, is not at all unlike those that arc found
in some parts of Abyssinia, especially those of Axum,
I Adowa, Macallc, Socota, Abbi-Addi. etc-, perhaps the most
Liancicnt towns of the country. They are flat-roofed, and
either of one or two stories, and show little architectural
taste, being perfectly plain. A large wall is built round a
rectangular space of ground, and the thick boundary wall
serves for one of the walls of the houses that are constructed
in the enclosure. The staircases to the upper rooms are also
i Always on the outside of these houses, as the protection to
the premises is the door of the enclosure that opens on to
the street. Any house found in Abyssinia with a staircase
inside the house can trace its origin to the Jesuits, or to
Eopic that have built their houses after this pattern, or that
vc travelled in a foreign country. The inside plan of the
house is severely simple, tlie rooms generally opening into
each other, and there is very seldom a pass-^e with rooms
opening off it. Those with a pasii^e generally belong to
the richer Mahomedans, who keep a harem, so at night
time the different wives may be separated. The poorer
Mahomedans of the country who keep more than one wife
tare obliged to let Mrs Monday, Mrs Tuesday and the ladies
of the other days of the week sleep in the same room.
The square-shaped, flat-roofed houses arc built with the
> exception of the beams, windows and doors entirely of stone,
|«nd the roof and terraces are made of a layer of flat slatey
I'Sandstone rock, which is very common in the country, and can
easily be detacheil in the quarriet where tt 'is found, and these
are very numerous in tlie northern part Besides from the
J quarries, these stones arc got from where some gigantic land-
[tlip has taken place, and thU s-tvcs much l^ilwur, as the
Mtones are found ready for use. The slabs are very often six
'Or seven feet long, by about two feet broad, and from six to
nine inches thick ; they arc admirably suited for pavJng-
stoncs. or for making staircases, doorsteps and for general
building purposes. They are also placed on the top of the
boundary walls to prevent the rain from entering and tvashing
out the clay that is used for mortar to bind the stooes
tc^etber.
The palace at Macatl^ that belor^ed to the late King
Johannes being made from designs by an Italian, and being
entirely European in its character, requires no comment in
this cliapter.
The town of Harar having been inhabited so long by the
238 MODERN ABYSSINIA
Arabs and the Egyptians, takes after the ordinary Arab and
Egyptian settlements, and most of the buildings in ^e
bonier towns, are completely Arab in construction, and of
course are of no more interest than the common fellah
dwellings in the Egyptian Delta. If anything, they are not
so well made and elaborate, and are if possible more dirty ;
stone, however, is substituted for the sun-dried bricks and
mud.
The Galla houses, commencing south of the Tacazze, are
nearly always of circular or oval form, and are made with
wattle of sticks and dhurra stalks, plastered over on both sides
with mud. The roofs are of thatch, similar to that of the
Abyssinians. The sides of the house are sometimes not more
than three feet in height, and the inside of the house is ex-
cavated to the extent of about three feet, the earth taken out
being firmly beaten against the outside of the erection ; this
is done for the sake of warmth, as the nights in the Galla
uplands are bitterly cold, and wood very scarce and in some
places entirely unprocurable. The cooking has to be done
entirely with cow-chips, which are made into cakes as in
l^yp^ and are sold at so much a mule or a donkey load.
These Gallas are filthily dirty, and all huddle together at
night under one cover for warmth's sake, their morals of
course are nil.
A more primitive way of building a house is often seen,
and is from sods of earth, which are cut the same as grass
turf for lawns in England, the roots of the grass holding the
earth together. These are placed one on the top of the other
until a square space is wailed in to the height of about six or
seven feet, when it is thatched over, or poles, which are got
from a long distance, are laid across from wall to wall, and
a little dhurra stalk evenly placed on the top, and then turfs
are laid over all. This will keep ordinary rain out, but when
the roof gets perfectly sodden it leaks. These huts look
perfectly brown during the dry season, but when the rains
set in the roots of the g^ass and flowers begin to grow and
they become perfectly green, and many sorts of flowering
plants will be found on one house. A door made of wood
in some parts of the Galla country is a rarity, and the house
is closed with a screen made of dhurra stalks. The houses
look like green rifle butts, and the doors Uke light brown or
yellow targets. On the hill-sides, covered with vegetation,
these villages are not discernible for any great distance, and
if one's attention was not drawn by some people moving
JUILDINGS
lABITANTS 239
about them they would not be noticed at all. These villages
are generally situated in such a peaceful country that they
have no defence and no ditch round them, and are {generally
in a district where there are no lij'cnas or wild beasts to
hurt the animals, and only have a slight turf wall to prevent
them from straying at night, and a slight covering over the
enclosure that serves to keep off the worst of the rain.
None of tlie AbyssinLin houses have chimneys, and the
smoke soon colouri the interior of the houses a dark brown.
The smoke soon fills the whole house and a little escapes by
the doors and windows, and how at night time in cold
weather, when everything is closed up, the people do not all
get suffocated by the pungent smoke of the cow-chip fires I
never could make out There arc several woods in Abyssinia
that when thoroughly dried make very little smoke, and by far
the best of these is that of the wild olive tree. It bums very
slowly and gives off a great heat, and leaves a beautiful clean
white ash that is excellent for many purposes, more especially
for curing skins of animals and making tliem pliable. This
wood is burnt in earthenware or iron braKiers by the well-
to^o people at night time, and the first thing in the morning
during the rains and the cold weather, but it is not in ail
parts of the country where it is to be found. I have often
sat over one of these fires with the greatest of pleasure, and
it was sometimes with much trouble that I could get my
Somali servants out of the house till the sun was up. Bed,
and sitting around the kitchen lire had great attractions for
them when the thermometer was down to near freezing point,
with a heavy Scotch mist, and the view limited to a distance
of about ten yards from the door.
It is wonderful to me how the natives of the high upland
country manage to exi.tt with their light clothing and the
leg bare from the knee downwards ; the weather is quite as
bad as it is sometimes in England on the downs and moors ;
the puddles covered with ice, and mist, rain, sleet, and an
occasional snowstorm. I have shivered when dressed in the
wannest of tweed suits, with flannel underclothing, thick
worsted stockings and stout shooting boots, with a heavy
ulster over all ; wlule the natives have been clad in nothing
but light home-made smocked shape cotton shirt, knee
breeches and a small cape made out of sheep's wool or goat's
hair. How glad every one is when the sun gets well above
the mountain tops and the misLi clear away, and how pleased
one is to get to the Ice of some rock out of the wind and
240 MODERN ABYSSINIA
bask in its rays and get the toes and fingers warm again.
The greater part of the Waag and Lasta provinces, the
WoUo country and the northern part of Shoa are bitterly
cold, and I met with weather like I have just mentioned in
October, November and December. I 'am told that in some
years that the wheat crop gets destroyed if one of these
very cold snaps occur white the plant is in bloom.
It is not only the human beings that feel the cold, as the
animals look miserable as well ; they huddle together in
flocks, and I have often noticed perhaps as many as a couple
of hundred sheep packed close to each other as ever they
can get, and not a head to be seen, nothing but legs and
woolly backs from which a slight steam arose. Goats do
not huddle together so much, but get under the lee of a bush
or a rock, and I never remember, no matter how bad the
storm has been, seeing a lot of goats tc^ether without one
doing sentry on some rock with his back to the rain and his
head down, but alwa3rs giving every few moments a rapid
glance on each side and behind him. It is a curious thing
they never keep a sentry if they have some small boys or
girls herding them. I have remarked this to my servant who
always travelled with me, and he said he had never noticed
it, but afterwards he found it was a fact
The Abyssinian towns are always irregularly built and
very seldom have wide streets. The broadest of them
always leading to the church or churches or the market
places, and the width of them seldom exceeds more than four
or five yards. The lanes that branch off from these streets
are very narrow, two laden animals not being able to pass
one another in most places, and if a string of pack mules or
horses are met, refuge has to be taken in some doorway
until they pass. I remember meeting one day in a very
narrow lane at Adowa a run away bullock with big horns
that knocked against each side of the walls. I could hear
the noise before he came round a turning, as soon as I saw
what was the cause of the noise I fled, and happily I fled
first into a friendly doorway and the bullock after me. It
turned out to be his home and he was returning from plough-
ing and wanted evidently to get back quickly to tea or
supper, but all the same I should have been upset, as I doubt
whether he would have stopped for me, notwithstanding the
Abyssinian horned cattle are so gentle. I have often bad to
dismount from my mule and enter some gateway to let them
pass.
BUILDINGS AND INHABITANTS 241
*
The Abyssinians, with the exception of the soldiery, as a
rule arc most polite and will always cive way for a European,
many of thcra in the north fjo so far as to dismount from
their animals and make a low bow when one passes. Some
of the soldiery, since the defeat of the Italians at Adowa, are
most insulting and monopolise the whole of the high road,
and try to ride one off" when there is plenty of room for all.
1 always try and get to the side of tlie road when soldiers
pass, so as not to run Uie risk of being insulted, but I am
afraid European prestige in some places in tlie country is on
tiie wane, and the higher officers are nearly as bad as the
private soldiers. An Amhara officer at Axum purposely
rode me into the wall, and a few minutes afterwanjs 1 met
Raa Aloula, who dismounted and came .^nd greeted me. I
told him of the ofiiccr's rudeness, he sent for him and had
him beaten in the market-place, much to the delight of the
Tigr^an people who detest the Amharans.
During the dry season the towns in Abyssinia do not look
nearly so well as after the raina. The roofs and walls of the
houses are then covered with vegetation, creepers, bright
flowers of all sorts, stone crops, lichens, ferns and many
other plants nearly cover the stone work and hide the walls
with a thick and luxurious vegetation, making a great contrast
from when everything is dried up ; the houses then look
quite pretty, and I know of no country in which, with a little
labour, prettier and more interesting gardens can be made
out of the native flowers, trees and plants.
Some of the country farms belonging to the large land-
owners arc really vcrj* nice places and arc fairly well arranged.
1*hey are generally situated on some level space on the side
of a mountain or hill, and cover with their yards, gardens and
many out-houscs several acres of ground. The space taken
up is always enclosed with a thick hedge and a protecting
ditch sometimes of a considerable width, which is generally
filled with thorns so as to prevent wild animals getting any
foot-hold to force their way through the live hedge, which
they otherwise might be able to da The thorns do not
prevent the utility of the ditch as a drain, as they are only
thrown in loosely and the water can run through them. The
hedges differ according to what part of the countiy the farm
is in ; a great favourite is the candelabra euphorbia or kol-
qual which is planted at first close tc^ther, and as the trees
grow tlic surplus ones arc gradually thinned out until it
makes a close hedge, impossible to penetrate owing to the
Q
«z
ymxmxs abyssinia
it»»- > 1K 3M»^ Mii lAe sharp thorns with which they
.« . attMEMMs.. TK-sr =«ei: «Acn grow to a height of thirty or
»«,» aw^ *Wwwrir*^ look very pretty; theseedpods
M >.<dfc, .j-nnsm-. 3(£. xwge, or light yellow, and a tiiick
e^ AttitC ^iM its dark green stems and many
.Q*^- ;vw^ 3)uit fTPV at regular intervals on the four
» 4iMf« IteAir tnodit knks very handsome. There is
j^MoiMl vltb « anooth fleshy round branch that
&-»»( «tw- A« sauS stems are very brittle and exude a
«•- ujMm,-ii.r miSb A»X will cause blindness should any of
;.-»tn^w» *-""?^"^ *"*•' **■ *>*■ "^^^ ''"** *^**" "°* reach to
M^ pg-- :^^ c<: Ae ktri-qual, but it maizes an equally
y-.iM*'-' >«rnr: TO the (aim.
"X^- ««B' 4*:JCAiR3 vary in size according to the
-,- •>». ^. Ac .^BiMr 'Uid may be from four to forty acres
4 ««^ ^V- HbaS'^ contained in them are often very
.^.^.y,^ jiv »-C; <«»sist of several good dwelling houses,
^..^ ^vM.>«»i>. -WKie *heds and labourers' cottages, generally
>i*.%.-w »■« Sta** *** *»' * square facing the entrance, and
■^,,,.> •«>««». »c* shady trees will be left in the square
A »K -f*<* V s***** themselves under. The rest of the
^^,^^ ^,* ^nt S« divided off into paddocks for the young
!^s.'< -> **.■«* Ae Bures can drop Uieir foals, and the cows
^^ .•».>v». »*ho<»t being disturbed. Fields for growing
..»,_) H^v-t »»^ 1* "*d for seed are highly manured and
s.»i*. ,^*<ii««v^ Aw* »*»e ordinary ground outside, and
^,,:-* , K.>v tV «S«t*tJ*s» herbs and other useful plants
"'*' ,-„k »"VK'»tnTsions are also bounded by small hedges
-v^-
« »-fcvJ »<- sfcipri or soap plant will be grown. The shipti
X . ,.iu«v>. i»Ji i^roduces a small round seed which the
v.C>^»J>*» *«■ i»*t»Md of soap, it makes a very good lather
»^' ,.^«-«» Ai *•** cottons and woollen clothes well, render-
;fc^ ".K'o* *v»v»hitc. and they also do not shrink and get
v,.^.. .;> -VilM^ « *=ry dense, and the plant grows very
«.<.».. ^w awning a hedge that prevents even the largest
1j,iat„'. LKsw >«*king through. Great attention is paid to
a; ^^.ttVABv'*^ "^f barley and wheat for seed purposes,
A^ \»»K « l5<1^ ^''^ clean from weeds and the ground
ih^vvN«ik> S«v'«fc«n up ^d liberally supplied with farm
j^.JIv iwit •* »lw»y <:arefully collected and allowed to
ss :. -*i S*((ore it is put on the ground. The seed grain
tw*» .* * ♦Jtt*' *o anything I have seen in other parts of the
^^x.w» -**i »* wrrfu'Iy cleaned from any noxious seeds ty
,K*^>***f*.'k<*' ^ **>* women. Seed grain always fetches
BUILDINGS AND IKTIAnTTANTS 243
*
a much higher price than that used for (jrinding, and people
will come a lon^ distance to purchase it, and in some parts
of the country there is a frequent interchange of it from one
dbtrtct to another- This is a1»o done with the potato, as
the tubers quickly deteriorate if always planted in tlie same
place.
The fanner in Abyssinia is a well-to-do man and generally
very hospitable, and takes a great pleasure in showing one
over his property. He lives on the fat of the land and has
good meat, good flour of all sorts, and his female belongings
make him good bread and cakes, cither of wheat, barley,
dhurra, tcf, both white and red, dagusa (an Abyssinian
brownish black grain which makes the best beer, and is also
distilled to make a strong white spirit), maize, etc. Pea flour
and bean flour are added to the chillies, to make the sauces
and chutney always used at every meal. Grain is ground
and mixed with tef flour and honey to make sweet cakes.
On feast and ordinary days butter i» used to cook the dishes,
and on fast days as butter is not allowed vegetable oils take
its place, they are made from linseed, noug (a hanly yellow
flowered plant which is very common throughout the north
»nd gives a small black highly oleaginous seed), and the
beautiful Souf, a thistic-likc plant with bright orange and red
flowers bearing a white seed somcthinglikc that of the sun-
flower, which 18 also vciy oleaginous. The seed of the Souf
is used for many purposes; it is, when dried and pounded,
made into sauces, or mixed with honey it makes a kind of
almond riynip. a favourite drink with the women and children.
The Mahomcdans use it for making the sherbet given on
feast days or at marriage and other entertiiinments. The
crown in which the Souf seed is carried is identically the
same shape as that of a thistle, and just as prickly. " '
The butter of the country when well made is excellent,
the milk is put in a skin and shaken until the butter forms.
Churns and cream separators are unknown in Abyssinia, and
the same method is employed that was in vogue countless
centuries ago.
The flour is ground between two flat stones and neeessf-
tates an enormous amount of labour; the pictures found in
the ancient ruins of Egypt depict the present means that are
in use for turning yrain into flour. The larger stone on
which the grain is placed Is set in a table built up of smaller
stones and hard clay, about tliree feet in height, its top made
with a slight incline, the flour when ground falls into a
£42 MODERN ABYSSINIA
stmigtli of the steins and the sharp thorns v^t''^^
are furnished. These trees often grow to a heigl
forty feet, and when in flower look very pretty ; "^ _
are bright crimson, red, orange, or light yellcic ^^'^
mass of this plant, with its dark green stet^^ ~'
coloured seed pods that grow at regular interve >j' -
angles of each fleshy branch, looks veryhandso'^
another euphorbia with a smooth fleshy roun '
is also used; the smalt stems are very brittle v
■very poisonous milk that will cause blindness .1^%.
it happen to get into the eye. This tree dtter '^
the same size as the kol-qual, but It mak'v^"^
impassable barrier to the farm. \ >^ .
These main enclosures vary in size aor ,, "^
wealth of the owner and may be from four 1], -
in area. The buildings contained in them ■ ^ !
numerous and will consist of several good d . '
bams, stables, cattle sheds and labourers' cot . V
arranged on tiiree sides of a square facing tf* -^
perhaps several nice shady trees will be lef . •
for the cattle to shelter themselves under,
enclosed area will be divided off into paddocV ->
stock, or where the mares can drop Uieir foa
their calves without being disturbed. Fie -
grain which will be used for seed are faigli
better cultivated than the ordinary groui
gardens where the vegetables, herbs and otl
are grown. These divisions are also boundec
on which the shipti or soap plant will be gr
is a climber, and produces a small round
Abyssinians use instead of soap, it makes >
and cleans all soft cottons and woollen etc
ing them very white, and they also do nc -
hard. Its foliage is very dense, and the
quickly, soon making a hedge that prevent
animal from breaking through. Great at
the cultivation of barley and wheat fc
the plant is kept very clean from weedi
thoroughly broken up and liberally ai
manure that is always carefully collecte .
rot in pits before it is put on the gTOU»
grown is equal to anything I have seen la
world, and is carefully cleaned from any
being hand-picked by the women. Seed (
BUILDINGS AND INHABITANTS 343
a mtKh higher price than that used Tor grinding, »nd people
will come a long distance to purchase it, and in some parta
of the country there is a Trequent interchange of it from one
district to another. This is also done with the potato, as
the tubers quickly deteriorate if always planted in the same
place.
Tile farmer in Abyssinia is a well-to-do man and f^ncrally
very hospitable, and takes a great pleasure in showing one
over his property. He lives on the fat of the land and has
good meat, good flour of all sorts, and his female belongings
make him good bread and cakes, either of wheat, barley,
dhurra, tcf, both white and r<x1, dagusa (an Abyssinian
brownish black grain which makes the best beer, and is aUo
distilled to make a strong white spirit), maize, etc Pea Hour
and bean flour are added to the chillies, to make the sauces
and chutney always u.'*ed at every meal. Grain is ground
and mixe<l with tcf flour and honey to make sweet cakes.
On feast and ordinary days butter is used to cook the di^es,
and on fast days as butter is not allowed vegetable oils take
its place, they are made from linseed, noug (a hardy yellow
flowered plant which is very common throughout the north
and gives a small black highly oleaginous seed), and the
beautiful Souf, a thistlc-likc plant with bright orange and red
flowers bearing a white seed something like that of the sun-
flower, which is also very oleaginous. The seed of the Souf
Es used for many purposes; it is, when dried and pounded,
made into sauces, or mixed with honey it makes a kind of
almond synip, a favourite drink with the women and children.
The Mahomcdans use it for making the sherbet given on
feast days or at marriage and other entertainments. The
crown in which the Souf seed Is carried ts {dcntically the
same shape as that of a thistle, and just as prickly.
The butter of the country when well made is excellent,
the milk is put in a skin and shaken until tlte butter forms.
Chums and cream separators are unknown in Abyssinia, and
the same method is employed that was In vogue countless
centuries ago.
The flour is ground between two flat stones and nee«s(-
tates an enormous amount of labour ; the pictures found In
the ancknt ruins of Eg>|pt depict the present means that are
in Qse for turning grain into flour. The Lirger stone on
whieh the grain is placed Is set in a tabic built up of smaller
stones and hard clay, about three feet in height, its top made
with a slight incline, the flour when ground falls into a
244
MODERN ^IBVSSINIA
basket or other receptacle placed at the opposite ^de Troin
the operator. The rubbing stooe has one flat side only, the
upper part having a slight ridge so the hands can get a good
purchase ; these rubbing stonet vary in weight from 4 to S
lb». for the softer grain, to as much as 10 to 12 lbs. for the
harder sorts of com. Maize and dhurra are generally partly
pounded in a pestle and mortar before being put on the
grinding stone.
The women commence their work very often long before
daylight and the first sound heard in the early morning
is the grating noise of flour making, combined with the
monotonous chant of the women repeating the Tsalms of
David or some prayer to help to enliven their task ; sometimes
I am sorry to say the young ladies will stng lighter sorts of
songs that will not bear tran.ilation. The oil seeds are all
pounded in a lac^c mortar made of some hard close grained
wood that will not absorb the oil, the rammer, being also
made of hard wood, is about five feet in length. The
mortar is made out of a trunk of a tree and hollowed out to
a depth of about eighteen inches, the bottom being slightly
cup shaped, from the lower part of which a hole is bored to
the outside to allow the oil to escape, the whole operation is
very tedious and a laigc amount of lalx>ur is expended to
produce a very little oiL The liquid obtained from the seed
has to be clarified before using, the residue is pressed by
the hand to get as much of the oil out as possible and the
finer part of the residue is used for various culinary purposes,
and the coarser part given to the favourite milch cows or
the young stock. The women folk belonging to the farmer's
household arc busy at work from early morning to late in
the evening, and have little or no spare time on their hands.
Klour grinding, butter and oil making, brewing the tcdj or
hydromcl and making the beer either out of barley or
dagu&a, preparing the daily meals, tanning skins, washii^
clothes, picking Uie raw cotton from the seeds, and spinning
Into threads preparatory to sending it to the weavers; going
to the weekly adjacent market with farm produce which they
cither sell or barter, field labour such as weeding the crops or
helping in the harvest field, serves to pass their time from
day to day throughout the year.
Amusements they have none worth speaking about, the
weekly market serves for a day's outing where tlicy hear the
gossip and scandal of the neighbourhood and perhaps the
news of any stirring event in the country, which perhaps has
I
I
BUILDINGS AND INHABITANTS 247
The clothes worn arc not at all ungraceful, and when
clean look very well. It is a dress that gives absolute
freedom to the limbs and body, and might be copied by
some of the he-women that rush about England on bicycles,
as it is a grent improvement on the hideous and unladylike
dress worn by them. The women in Abyssinia are very
fond of strong scents which, as a rule, take the form of oils
and arc all imported, none being made in the country ; they
chiefly consist of those that come from India or Ceylon, such
as lemon grass, rose, nutmeg, cinnamon oils, etc * Some of
the Galla women use civet, and they smell like the small
cat house in the Zoological Gardens. Nearly all the lower
class Abyssinian women u^e oil or fat for their heads; this
they do to keep tlie small parasites quiet, as they cannot
get about when the head and hair arc thickly besmeared
and saturated, and the oil or fat also serves for softening
the .tkin of the face and preventing it from chapping in the
cold weather, or blistering during the hot season of the
year. When they go to the coast they soon lose this
custom, nor do they resort to it on their return.
When the women leave the hou.sc to go to market or
church on Sundays and the great festival days, they always
wear one of the native cotton dhammas, which have a broad
red stripe down the ccatrc. These covers arc all home-
made with the exception of the 'thread for the red part,
which is made of tnglish Turkey-red twist. They arc
generally worn like a toga, and one shoulder is left un-
covered. A native sunshade used always to be carried,
but now nearly everyone has ao umbrella. These sun-
shades could not be folded up and were made of neatly
plaited grass of different colours and looked extremely
well ; they were about two feet to two feet and a half in
diameter. The pattern of the umbrellas that are imported
are gaudy in the extreme, and give a lively rainbow colour-
ing to the groups congregated in the churchyards or market-
places.
The dress of the men varies greatly; the peasant and
the poor class wear loose drawers extending to just under
the knee, where they fit tight and arc gathered round the
waist by a thong or belt ; a loose shirt is about the only
other clothes worn, with the exception of a cape made of
a tanned sheep or goat skin with the hair left on. Those
who can aflfotd one of the national red and white shammas
wear one on holidays. The Abyssinian is beginning to take
U6 MODERN ABYSSINIA
and pieces for stripes and edgings for the outer shirt and
trousers.
The dress that they vse on feast days or on any grand
occasion consists of a long undershirt reaching to the knees,
made of home-grown cotton, cleaned, spun, and woven
perhaps on the premises. The cloth is beautifully made and
very soft and warm. A pair of trousers, very roomy above
and fitting tight at the ankle and calf, in shape not at
all unlike the pictures of the hunting-breeches in the FuU
or other papers ; they are usually made of a stronger doth,
but equally soft and warm. The lowest part of the trousers
is covered with the embroidery and fastened tight to the
1^ by a row of small, round, silver buttons. The outer
seams on either 1^ have also a stripe of embroidery about
two or three inches broad, generally ending with a large
eight-pointed cross. The breeches are fastened round Uie
waist with a silk cord, the same as pyjamas are secured,
and the tassels of which are often handsomely decorated
with silver ornaments. The inner light shirt is tucked
into the trousers, and over all is worn a cotton smock
reaching to a little below the knees, made of the same soft
material but slightly heavier, and is richly decorated round
the collar, shoulders, back, front and wrists, also the tower
edge, with the native-made embroidery; the chief colours
employed in the work being crimson, dark blue and black,
or the national colours of red, yellow and green.
The married women wear round the head a black silk
or party-coloured handkerchief which is tied behind, and
from it the many little tails of the plaited hair escape ; the
unmarried girls have their hair generally very short and
wavy, and wear one or two gold or silver hairpins ; their
other jewellery consists of little button ear-rings and three
little stars, generally made of silver gilt, that are strung on
a thread of dark blue silk and are placed on either temple
and in the centre of the forehead just where the hair com-
mences. Silver bangles and heavy silver gilt bracelets on
the wrist and ankle, bangles and anklets of the same material
on each leg. Round the neck is always worn the blue silk
cord (all Abyssinians wear this, as it denotes that they are of
the Christian religion) to which is generally attached a crucifix,
sometimes made of silver, and a few charms or amulets, and
silver or gold necklaces of old Byzantine pattera The 6ngers
will be covered with many silver rings, either perfectly plain
or of a beaded pattern, and very often all the toes as weU.
BUILDINGS AND INHABITANTS 247
The clothes worn are not at all ungRtceful, and when
clean look very wcli It is a dress that gives absolute
freedom to the Umbs and body, and might be copietl by
some of the hc-womcn that rush about England on bic^xlcs,
as it is a great improvement on the liidcous and unladylike
dress worn by them. The women in Abyssinia arc very
fond of strong scents which, as a nilc, take the form of oils
and arc all imported, none being made in the country; they
chiefly consist of those that come from India or Ceylon, such
as lemon grass, ro«e, nutmeg, cinnamon oils, etc 'Some of
the Gatla women use civet, and they smell like the small
cat house to tlie Zoological Gardens. Nearly all the lower
dass Abyssinian women u.se oil or fat for their heads; this
they do to keep the smail parasites quiet, as they cannot
get about when the head and hair are thickly besmeared
and saturated, and the oil or fat also serves for softening
tlie skin of the face and preventing it from chapping in the
cold weather, or blistering during the hot season of the
year. When they go to the coast they soon lose this
custom, nor do they resort to it on their returtL
When the women leave the house to go to market ot
church on Sundays and the great festival days, they always
wear one of the native cotton ^hammas, which have a broad
red Ktrij>e down the centre. These covers are al) home-
made with the exception of the 'thread for the red par^
which is m.idc of English Turkey-red twist They are
generally worn like a toga, and one shoulder is left un*
covered. A native sunshade used always to be carried,
but now nearly everyone has an umbrella. These sun-
shades could not be folded up and were made of neatly
plaited grass of difTercnt colours and looked extremely
well ; they were about two feel to two feet and a half in
diameter. The pattern of the umbrellas tliat are imported
are gaudy in the extreme, and give a lively rainbow colour-
ing to the groups coogr^atcd in the churchyards or market-
places. ' " 1
The dress of the men varies greatly ; the peasant and
the poor class wear loose drawers extending to just under
the knee, where they fit tight and are gathered round the
waist by a thong or belt; a loose shirt is about the only
other clothes worn, w\th the exception of a cape made of
a tanned sheep or goat skin with the hair left on. Those
who can afforij one of the national red and white shammus
wear one on holidays. The Abyssinian is banning to take
248 MODERN ABYSSINIA
to European clothes on the upper part of his body, such as
shirts, coats and waistcoats, but as yet he has not adopted
the lower garments, and in the transition change he looks
a curious and grotesque object European hats are getting
very common, and are generally of the bowler, wideawake
or Terai patterns, and have nearly superseded the straw
and grass made hats of the nearly identical European
shape. Some of the women still wear these straw hats, and
when nicely made and placed jauntily on a well-shaped
head and shading a pretty face do not look at all bad.
The king, princes, and chief men of the country dress
nearly alike, and the description of one of their dresses
will suffice for alt ; of course on grand occasions they will
wear highly decorated satins, silks, and embroidered damask
of European or Indian make, and fur tippets made of the
lion's mane or leopard's skin, that of the black leopard
beii^ most liked. The drawers will be rather larger and
of better quality than those worn by the lower classes,
and will be made of the best Mandiester shirtings and
fit tightly to the calf of the leg, which they entirely cover.
If worn by a rich man the ends will very likely be em-
broidered in black, white, or coloured thread. Next to
the body will be a cotton or flannel shirt, either of native
or European make, tucked into the drawers ; over this a
cotton or cloth jacket coming some way below the waist;
and over all a long loose cloth cloak without arms and
fastened in front by a button or silver brooch. These
cloaks are generally black and made of European stuff,
silk, satin, alpaca or broadcloth. They are often hand-
somely worked and embroidered, and some of them cost
a lot of money. Constantinople, Jerusalem, or the Levant
ports being the places where they mostly come from.
No Abyssinian in the country has taken to boots, shoes
or stockings, although they will hamper their feet with them
when they reach the coast. They all go about barefooted ;
consequently their feet, although small and well shaped,
showing no sign of negro heel, are generally knocked about
and blemished, and those that ride much have a lar^ b^
toe development The stirrup used is very small and only
lai^ enough to hold the big toe, and if they wore shoes or
boots of course they would have to be larger ; the Abyssinian
is very conservative in his ideas, so perhaps there will be
no change until some king sets the example by wearing
boots, and then a larger stirrup will be the fashion. Many
BUILDINGS ANn INHABITANTS 249
of the ladies who have been abroad wear slippers, and the
French merchants arc trying to dress the ladies in high-
heclcd Parisian boots and other French garments such as
g;&udy corsets ; however, they do not seem to be popular
as yet It is a pity when Africans take to European clothes,
as they lose their individuality and are at best a poor imita-
tion of the white man, and I always think a native of British
India in a high silk hat is a painful sight
King Johannes used to wear his hair plaited in the
Abyssinian style with a splendid gold pin in it. used when
necessary, and the only covering to his head when he went
out of doors was a black silk handkerchief, and to protect
him from the sun or rain, an attendant used to hold a black
silk umbrella over him on ordinary occasions, and a red silk
one on state. Ras Mangesha, his illegitimate son, does the
same, but the present king wears his hair cut short, and uses
his fingers to scratch his head, and sports a two shilling black
wideawake, and he does not look nearly so characteristic
or Abyssinian as his predecessor.
Some of the men in northern Abyssinia look particularly
well when they arc dressed in new clothes, and could not
improve on their loose-fitting and graceful garments, and I
hope it will be a long time before they Europcanisc- them-
selves. I remember when many of the Egji>tians used to
wear the old Arab dress and a turban, which they have now
discarded for the Stambuli frock-coat and tlie tarbush, and
the change is not for the better,
The Abyssinian children, the moment they grow b^
enough to wear clothes, dress the same as their parents,
only of course in smaller si/ed garments ; before they reach
that age they wear but little : a plain little shirt being their
only covering. They arc merry, jolly little things, and as a
rule well behaved ; shy to commence with, and some at first
being frightened of white people, but no more so, perhaps,
than English children would be of a black man, if they came
across one in the country. The wildest and shiest have had
the greatest confidence in mc in the space of an hour. On
first meeting mc, they have fled screaming to thdr cottages,
crying out : " Mother, come and see this horrible red thing,"
and then when once tliey have gained shelter, peeping out
behind the door or in safety from their mother's skirts. A
f>iecc of sugar or a sweet bi.scuit lays the foundation of
ricndship, and they soon grow bold enough to come quite
close, and perhaps those more brave than the others will put
254 MODERN ABYSSINIA
European woman of double the age. The upper classes
keep their good looks longer, but at thirty-five they are
entirely passi, their profiles alone being good ; some of
them make handsome old ladies, while others are perfect
old witch-like hags at fifty. They are, as a rule, industrious,
luuvj-working and good-tempered, ever ready to do a good
action, and tiiey certainly make good wives when they once
settle down. They are not more Immoral that the women
of other countries, but there is a certain laxness before they
are married which is thought nothing of, but they are true
after the marriage ceremony has been performed in church
and the sacrament has been taken together. They will look
out after their husband's children, legitimate or ill^timate,
the same as their own, but it is only natural that they should
prefer the ones they have borne themselves and take the most
care of them. Their great drawback is their dirtiness, but
all those that get the chance of being clean keep themselves
very neat and tidy, and many of them make good domestic
servants, first-rate cooks, laundresses and dressmakers.
The Abyssinian women have always been great favourites
with the Turks, Egyptians, Armenians, and many of the
Levantine races. Many of the officials in Turkey, Egypt,
and Arabia have been the offspring of Abyssinian women.
The cross between the Abyssinian and European, and the
Abyssinian and Levantine races show no signs of deteriora-
tion, as far as I have seen. Many of the children are much
finer and better-looking than the ordinary male Abyssinian,
and they grow into fine strong athletic men, and are intelligent
and clever, soon picking up langu^es or trades of all sorts.
The women are also handsomer and quicker at learning
than their mothers, and in features and colour could very
well be taken for inhabitants of Southern Europe.
The cross between this Semitic race and the Caucasian
has not the great objections as that of the Caucasian with
the negro ; the offspring from these two is a grave mistake,
as the racial foetor of the negro never thoroughly dies out,
and even the character of the progeny, although it may be
slightly better than that of the true negro, often shows great
vindictiveness and moroseness, and many other bad qualities.
Here also in Abyssinia the cross between the Semitic race
and the negro is not a success, and I should have no hesita-
tion in saying that the majority of the criminals and the
more lawless of the population belong to this class, and
the cruelty of some of tiie rulers may be accounted for by
AND INHABITANTS 251
Wrestling takes place, but striking with the hands or
boxing is not resorted to ; when the boys fifjht amongst
themselves they generally close and wrestle, and when they
fall to the ground they will scratch, bite, kick, and puU each
other's hair, and the vanquished will generally, when they
come apart, get hold of a stone an(t tlireaten all sorts of
things but seldom throws it, if he does, it is generally at
the lower part of the leg and not at the head. 'Iliey are
passionate, but not what one could call t>ad -tempered, and
they arc seldom what could be called sulky or vindictive;
and their quarrels arc like April showers and soon pass away.
Ten minutes after two boys have fought they may be seen
walking together with their arms round each other the best
of friends. They are perfectly fearless with animals, and will
catch and mount the horses and mules that arc grazing in
the opi;n and gallop them about bare-backed and without a
halter and laugh when one of them gets tlirown.
The out-door life they lead, despite their bad sanitary
houses, makes those that survive haixly and active, and it is
no wonder that they make splendid fighting material. One
of their favourite amusements Ls playing at soldiers ; one
party is chosen against another, the one hides in the bush
and among the rocks, and the other party will go out to find
them. They arm themselves with sham swords made of
wood, lances from some long reed and a shield of wicker-
work made out of rushes. I have often watched these sham
battles quite closely, and have been hit by a rccd thrown by
^soffle little rascal hidden in the grass, who has laughed when
has struck me. They show a great deal of intelligence
id strategy when they scout, and get up tall trees to try
nd find the wherealiouts of their supposed enemy. They
are merry, jolly little souLs, but it Ls a pity that they are not
kept cleaner, but what semi-wild children are not dirty?
Their mothers never say — like English ones do — " Tommy,
come in out of the dirt or I will smack you, you arc spoiling
your new clothes." The Abyssinian small child has no
• clothes to spoil except about twice a year on some great
[festival when he gets it new shirt, and I am sure he tries his
lliardest to keep it clean for the first few hours until some
■little accident happens, and then if It is a little dirty it might
become altogether so, and by night time there may be one of
two white spots left. Collectors of natural history objects will
find these small boys most useful, as they know where every*
thing is to be found; birds' nests and all ; they arc not
252
MODERN ABYSSINIA
particularly careful with the specimens, and wtlt bring in a
bottcrfly with part of a wing only, or a beetle squashed
nearly flat or minus all its legs; however, they mean well,
and soon can be entrusted with a butterfly net or a collecting-
box.
Snakes or harmless lizards they generally mangle in a
terrible manner and will never touch them with thetr hands;
so they arc brought in impaled on some stick, and small
children who perhaps have never seen a live snake will show
just as much fear of it as a monkey will, another proof of
Darwin's theory. I shall never forget the awe of a small
group of these boys when I caught a large green-grass snake
with my hands and a short stick, and showed them the insitle
of its mouth, and that it had no fangs, and told them It was
perfectly harmless and a most useful reptile, as it fed on
iocu^Li and other insectx, and I then let it go. Chametlons
that arc vcrj- common in .Abyssinia they have all a great dread
of, as they say they spit poison at people, and that they are
very deadly. They used to tell me that if one watched them
changing colour that blindness was certain to take place. I
always used to catch and handle the chamelions and put
them in my tent, as it was most amusing to watch them
catching flies and insects and changing their colours, perfectly
green at one moment when on the WiUesden canvas tent and
brown when on tlic brown blankets of my bed ; at last the
children got to believe that they were harmless. It U
entirely the fault of the priests that all these vulgar super-
stitions are kept up, amf they teach the children that the
snake is a real devil and the lizard one of his satellites ;
they are therefore ruthlessly killed on every opportunity. 1
was very much amused on one occasion with a priest. 1 was
sitting at the roadside surrounded by my servant and a lot of
small children examining an adder (one of the brown marble
coloured, like that so common in the Soudan) and explaining
to them the fangK and poison sac when the priest came up,
and the moment he saw the snake he pulled out his croM
and held it in front of him and began telling the children
that it was the devil. I threw it in the air and it nearly fctl
on the too of him, and he was off down the road like a shot,
saying all sorts of things about strangers teaching children
to be disobedient and I. by retorting about pncsts, who
ought to know better than telling children lies.
The childhood of these manty little boys is a short one, as
tbey soon have to help tlicir fathers cam Uieir daily bread
I
4
AGRICULTURE AND ANIMALS 259
m
fully collected and stored. Unfortunately it is placed like
in Ireland, just under the house window, and the smell,
therefore, is far from pleasant. Carts are unknown, so it has
all to be carried to the fields by the people in small baskets
or on donkey back, entailing an enormous amount of labour.
Immediately the crops are cut. which is done by knives or
small sickles made by the village blacksmiths, the cattle,
ICQOsisting of cows, sheep an<l goats, are turned into the
rstnbbles to grace on the undci^rowth of grass and small
herbs that have grown up in spite of all the weeding.
The date of the har\-cst depends on what part of the
country one is to, and its altitude above the sea. Consider-
ing some of the cultivated plateaux arc not more than 30CO
feet above the sea, naturally the crops ripen a great deal
sooner than they do on those plateaux that have an altitude
of 10,000 feet, and in some parts of the country a little more
than a day's journey will take one from autumn back to
summer, spring and winter, and from tropical to sub-tropical
and European climate, according to height. The crops of
wheat, t>arley, dhurra, maize, tef, dagusa, beans of all sorts,
peas of many different kinds, grain, lentils, linseed, and other
oil seeds, which form the chief field crops grown, begin to
get ripe at tlie end of September, and the firat harvest is
over by the end of November or early December.
The barley amongst the grains is the first to ripen,
followed by the dhurra and wheat ; the moment these fields
have been cleared, and the undergrowth has been fed down
by the cattle, they arc again broken up and a pea, grain, or
bean crop grown, which is very often ready to har\'cst before
some of the other crops are ripe. So fertile is the ground,
that another barley crop will be sown after these, and if
there are good winter rains, will be ripe by the end of
March or commencement of April, making three crops oJf
some iields in the twelve months. It is only in part of
April, May, and the commencement of June, that the country
looks at its worst, and a.i if it w-is a burnt-up, barren land, as
there is very little colour in the l.indscapc, except browns and
reds of all shades, or where the water meadows are situated
in the lower parts of the valleys. At this period some
travellers and military men have visited the country, and not
being of an observant nature have reported unfavourably
on it.
There is nothing done in the way of carrying crops, and
DO uicfa. festivals as take place in other countries, with the
254 MODERN ABYSSINIA
European woman of double the age. The upper classes
keep their good looks longer, but at thirty-five they are
entirely passi, their profiles alone being good ; some of
them m^e handsome old ladies, while others are perfect
old witch-like hags at fifty. They are, as a rule, industrious,
hard-working and good-tempered, ever ready to do a good
action, and they certainly make good wives when they once
settle down. They are not more Immoral that the women
of other countries, but there is a certain laxness before they
are married which is thou^t nothing of, but they are true
after the marriage ceremony has been performed in church
and the sacrament has been taken t<%ether. They will look
out after their husband's children, legitimate or ilt^timate,
the same as their own, but it is only natural that they should
prefer the ones they have bomethemselves and take Ae most
care of them. Their great drawback is their dirtiness, but
all those that get the chance of being clean keep themselves
very neat and tidy, and many of them make good domestic
servants, first-rate cooks, laundresses »id dressmakers.
The Abyssinian women have always been great favourites
with the Turks, Egyptians, Armenians, and many of the
Levantine races. Many of the officials in Turkey, Egs^pt,
and Arabia have been the offspring of Abyssinian women.
The cross between the Abyssinian and European, and the
Abyssinian and Levantine races show no signs of deteriora-
tion, as far as I have seen. Many of the children are much
finer and better-looking than the ordinary male Abyssinian,
and they grow into fine strong athletic men, and are intelligent
and clever, soon picking up languages or trades of all sorts.
The women are also handsomer and quicker at learning
-than their mothers, and in features and colour could very
well be taken for inhabitants of Southern Europe.
The cross between this Semitic race and the Caucasian
has not the great objections as that of the Caucasian with
the negro ; the offspring from these two is a grave mistake,
as the racial foetor of fiie negro never thoroughly dies out,
and even the character of the progeny, although it may be
slightly better than that of the true negro, often shows great
vindictiveness and moroseness, and many other bad qualities.
Here sdso in Abyssinia the cross between ^e Semitic race
and the negro ts not a success, and I should have no hesita-
tion in saying that the majority of the criminals and the
more lawless of the population belong to this class, and
the cruelty of some of the rulers may be accounted for ^
BUILDINGS AND INHABITANTS 255
a mixture of ncg^o blood, perhaps three or four or more
generations aga It is a most interesting question, and may
take several generations to decide, what the future of the
present cross that is growing up will turn out, and whether
a true bred Caucasian and Semitic will, in this instance, be
a success or not ; all those that I have seen, both male and
female, perhaps two to three hundred in all, are improvements
and not deteriorations. I could give many examples, but they
shall be nameless, as their Ei^llsh and Italian fathers, or the
families of their fathers, might not care about the names
appearing in print
CHAPTER XI
AGRICULTURE AND DOMESTIC ANIMALS
npHERE is perhaps no part of Africa that can equal
''' Abyssinia as an agricultural country and its inhabitants
must have lived for countless ages as tillers of the soiL No
modem ideas of farming or cultivation have ever been intro-
duced, and here can be found the same methods of culttvat*
ing the land as must have existed since the human being
first gained his existence in the g^rain ticlds by the sweat of
his brow.
If we look at the pictures found in the andent tombs
of Egypt, that deal with the subject of agriculture, or turn
to the ruins of Babylon, we find exactly tiie same methods
of cultivating the soil employed in these l^fgone ages as
exists at the present moment in the highlands of Ab^inia.
The plough is of the same form, the yoke that attached the
animal to the plough is of the same shap^ and the whip to
ui^ them on exactly similar. For hand Ubour in breiucing
up the earth, the hoe now used has not altered in die least
from those that were formerly manufactured, and we have
no doubt, in Abyssinia, an example of what the cultivation
of the soil has been since the earliest epoch of civilisation.
Some parts of the Galla countries, especially in the Harar
province, are no doubt more backward, and more primitive
in the means employed than in Abyssinia, and here can be
found instruments for breaking up ^e ear^ entirely manu-
factured of wood, others of wood and stone, and if the villages
of whole districts were searched, hardly a dozen iron hoes or
plough-shares could be mustered, and those perhaps belong-
ing to people who have travelled or settled in the country
from other districts. The plough is made of a nearly semi-
circular piece of mimosa tree or other suitable tough wood,
and in the centre of the curve a hole is bored, and two flat
supports are placed on either side, made of the same wood ;
between these supports is placed the iron plough-share, and
AGRICULTURE AND ANIMALS 257
they are all bound together to the shaft with raw hide, at an
angle of about twenty degrees.
The yoke is also joined to one end of the shafi by raw
hide, and consists of a straight piece of wood about five feet
to length, and bored with four holes to contain the ends of
the collar of bent wood which attaches the animals to the
yoke In ground which is hard to break up. a heavy stone
is bound on to the upper side of the lower part of the semi-
drcutar bit of \voo<l, just above the plou(>hshare, to make it
do its work. The plough is kept in position by the plough-
man with one hand, and the other hand is used for the whip,
which has a handle of about two feet in length, with a thong
made of plaited fibre or leather of about seven to eight feet
The iron hoes vary in size, from light ones weighing
about 2 lbs., to the heavier sorts weighing as much as 8 lbs.
They are in shape like the ace of spades, and arc fitted into
holes in wooden handles, and firmly tied by raw hide. With
these two instruments, nearly the whole of the soil in the
northern part of Abyssinia is cultivated. In southern
Abyssinia, and tn the Galla countries, the peasants use a
trident-shaped tool, about eight feet long, made of any
heavy hard wood, the three prongs of the trident being
sometimes shod with iron when obtainable ; this is plunged
into the hard black soil, and a piece of ground some twoiect
.square is raised up and turned over. When the plot of
ground is finished, the men break up the pieces of earth with
a heavy mallet made of stone. Many stones with holes
completely through them are to be obtained in the country,
and a handle is fitted in them and they arc then fit for use.
The seed bed is then partly levelled down, and planted
with whatever crop they want. Sometimes the blocks of
earth which are raised up are over a foot in thickness, and
if the cultivators think that the richness of the soil in them
is exhausted, they are stacked in ,1 heap or uted to make a
wall round the fiekls, and the underneath soil is used as the
seed bed. These stacks of .soil are full of the roots of fomter
craps, couch grass and weeds ; other weeds and dried vegeta-
tion are collected and stacked with them and allowed to
remain till the har^'cst is finished, when they arc burnt ; and
what with the purifying heat of the sun and the vegetable
ash, the soil becomes sweet and good and regains Its fertility,
and is again spread over the fields before the next crop is
Elantcd. Where these heaps have been, can always be seen
y a richer growth of the crop- In some soils in the south,
R
258 MODERN ABYSSINIA
die trident instrument Is used before ploughing is resorted
to, owing to the primitive aad weak plough, which hardly
-acratches the upper surface ; it is only after heavy rains that
the ploughshare will do its woric In the north, perhaps,
the farming is a great deal superior to that of the souOi ;
rotation of crops is better understood, and there being such
a lot of ground that can be cultivated, fields have a longer
rest ; some ground is allowed to lie idle for a couple of years,
and by that time it is covered with a thick jungle vegetation,
which has to be cut down and burnt before the field is again
used for cultivation.
The first crop grown on this fresh recultivated land is
generally dhurra (koUtu sorghum), as the seed bed does not
require such a thorough preparation, and the roots and stems
of the dhurra when burnt aJbo make fair manure. The roots
of the dhurra also tend to break the soil into fine particles,
and make the land easier to plough, and as the roots sink
to no great depth, they do not exhaust the under soil.
Ploughing in the north is not like what our farmers in
England are accustomed to, and very few fields are ever
seen in long ridge and furrow. The man directs his instrument
at haphazard idl over the field, thoroughly breaking up the
surface of the soil, and leaving if possible no big clod of
earth. If the fields are very stony, after the first plough-
ing they are collected in heaps, or if the field slants to any
great extent and a wash from the rain is feared, they are
put in lines across the field at right angles to the slope ; when
this work is completed, the field is again reploughed and
made ready to receive the seed, which is generally planted
in early June, so as to be ready for the rainy season, which
commences about the middle of June, sometimes a few days
before or after the 15th, according to whether the rains are
early or late. Near the big towns of the north, where labour
is very plentiful and there are many women and children,
farming has arrived at a very high state of perfection ; hedges
kept in good order ; ditches kept clear, so the water after the
frequent and heavy rains shall run away to the streams
quickly and not make the fields sodden ; weeding is carefully
attended to, and the women and small children spend daily
many hours in the fields, removing the weeds by hand from
amongst the growing grain.
Near these towns, of course, ground is more valuable, and
it is very seldom that the fields are allowed to remain long
in fallow ; therefore manure has to be used, and this is care-
RnTCin.TirRE and animals 259
fully collected and stored. Unfortunately it li placed like
in Ireland, just under tlic house window, and the smell,
therefore, U far from pleasant. Carts are unknown, 90 it has
all to be carried to the fields by the people in small baskets
or on donkey back, entailing an enormous amount of labour.
Immediately the crops are cut. which is done by knives or
small sickles made by the villafre blacksmiths, the cattle,
■consisting of cows, sheep and goats, arc turned into the
stubbles to graze on the undergrowth of grass and small
herbs that have grown up in spite of all the weeding.
The date of the harvest depends on what part of the
country one is in, and its altitude above the sea. Consider-
ing some of the cultivated plateaux are not more th-in 3000
feet above tlie sea, naturally the crops ripen a great deal
sooner tlian they do on those plateaux that have an altitude
of 10,000 feet, and in some parts of the country' a little more
than a day's journey will take one from autumn back to
summer, spring and winter, and from tropical to sub-tropical
and European climate, according to height. The crops of
wheat, barley, dhurra, maize, tcf, dagusa, beans of all sorts,
peas of many different kinds, grain, lentils, linseed, and other
oil seeds, which form the chief field crops grown, begin to
.get ripe at the end of September, and the first harvest is
^ovcr by the end of November or early December.
The barley amongst the grains is the first to ripen,
i^followed by the dhurra and wheat ; the moment Uiese fields
ve been cleared, and the undergrowth has been fed down
the cattle, they arc again broken up and a pea, grain, or
la crop grown, which is very often ready to harvest before
ame of the other crops arc ripe. So fertile is the ground,
Fthat another barley crop will be sown after these, and if
there are good winter rains, will be ripe by the end of
March or commencement of April, making three crops off
some fields in the twelve months. It is only in part of
April, May, and thecommcnccment of June, that the country
looks at its worst, and as if it was a bumt-up, barren land, as
lere is ver>- little colour in the landscape, except browns and
Fteds of all shades, or where the water meadows are situated
in the lower parts of the valleys. At this pedod some
travellers and military men have visited the country, and not
being of an observant nature have reported unfavourably
»n iL
There is nothing done in the way of carrying crops, and
no such festivals as take place in other countries, with the
260
MODERN ABYSSINIA
brining in of the last load. The craps are cut and cocio
or !itack«d in the fields where they are grown, and as it is
generally fine weather without any rain, they arc not covered
up. The grain is trodden out by animals; the oxen, horftes,
and mules being employed to do the work. There arc very
seldom any proper floors prepared, but a simple circle of
stones made round a piece of ground about twenty yards in
diameter ; and as soon as the crop (s cut, the ^rain is arranged
in the circle with the cars pointing towards the centre, and
the animals generally tied four abreast, sometimes more,
are turned in tlie circle to tiead out the com. The animals
are ridden by the small children, who seem to thoroughly
enjoy harvest work. White this work is going on, the
AbyssJnian as a rule sleeps near his threshing floor, and
the country side is dotted with fires; this is about the only
time of the year that the Abyssinian sleeps out of doors.
In some parts of the countrj-. however, a little away from the
main roads, where the people arc not frightened of tjavellers
or tramps stealing the grain, it is left without watchers, and
in my travels I have often come across these heaps of half-
cleaned grain left without a watchman. Many an evening I
have camped with the pea-tant at his threihtng floor, and
■at long into the night talking with him round hLs fire under
the bright moonlight, when the stars look so unnaturally
large in the dark heavens, owing to the clearness of the
atmosphere. Nature then is very still, and the only sounds
that can be heard is the occasional bark of the fox, the
jackal's weird cry, or some old hyena calling to its mate,
and if he approaches too near the villages, the dogs assemble
and drive him off with their yelping.
One finds out a great deal more of the people of the country
if one enters into converMtion with them at all times, and
sympathises with them in their little troubles and the work
they have to do. I have never regretted my time spent with
them, cither in their houses or in the field, but I object to
their dirty houses and their insects. A man may travel for
years on the high roads of Abyssinia and stop with king
or prince, and never come to know anything properly of the
Inhabitants and the peasantry who make up the large
majority of the country, and thus form a most erroneous
opinion on what the country wants.
I'hc king, the prince, and the baron all require one thlnc^
and they nre few in number, and tlie peasants (or yeomanry
of the country), who an the nint nunerous, require another,
I
I
■ik
AGRICULTURE AXD ANIMALS 261
and object to keep the upper classes id idleness, and perhaps
to lose the result of their labour in a quarrel which docs not
interest them in the slightest.
The winnowing of the grain is also done En the fields, and
only consists of throwing the grain in small quantities in the
air. so the husks can be blown away by the wind ; it is then
put into baskets made of rushes or into sacks made of fibre
and taken to the villages, where it is stored in large wicker-
work receptacles which are plastered with clay to prevent
the rats and mice eating the grain, or in underground pits
which have been thoroughly dried and thdr sides well lined
with a kind of cement made out of the white ant mounds ;
these pits are then covered up with two to three feet of earth
and, so as to efleclually hide them, some small garden produce
is grown over the ground, and tlie only way that they can
be discovered is by sounding. Grain in these pits will keep
a long time if it is put in when it is quite dry and ripe ; if it
is put in in a damp state it soon mildews and spoils. The
heads of the dhurra and the maize are plucked when ripe,
and the grain is detached by beating it with a flat stick ; this
work is performed by the women and children in the houses
or enclosures round them, and not in the fields.
The peasant, before the cattle plague broke out, was in a
much better position than he is now ; as at the end of every
season he had a large surplus stock of grain, as with his
several pairs of oxen he could cultivate more ground than be
does at present I can remember tlie time in Abyssinia when
grain used to be remarkably cheap, good wheat and barley
selling in some places for less than an HnglUh sovereign per
ton of 20 cwts., and there is no reason after a series of good
years why this should not again take place.
In parts of Abyssinia the land during the dry season is
irrigated, and the system of irrigation is not at all unlike
that employed by the Ceylon natives. Tlie terrace irrigation
entails a lot of hard work. The water is taken from some
spring in the mountains, and directed to the upper terrace on
the hillside in small channcb roughly built of stone and clay.
The tenaces are built up of stones taken from the fields, and
of course vary in height and width according to the nature
of the hill which i.t being cultivated ; they may be from two
to six feet above one another, and they gradually decrease in
breadth the further they get up the hill. Great care is
taken during the rainy season to keep waterways open and
sufficiently large enough to carry olT any sudden rush of
V,"injTJK AETSSTXIA
— -?- . . ~ .-ai--v'i. n»: an usee for irrigating the
~ «:-^-- -T. r,a.-; iix o: zf- ditches, to car
- ■-. T-j^.- --; iM arainaire. In makii
■-■- —iT-r.T^; n;:-n:s«s e deep and the
--- -^ :. ■ I- .:^vws.- " u-ire zbe n-ater fron
- -■»• - - -- ■:=.' .-.-..as- :r u:nitr. E.iid led a]ong i
■: f- i- ^ :ri s^'-i;:;^ «>j=i a: Tie \-aIlej-s bel
* ■ - -- :^'. --itTsc s"-^ 7r,zy inc watered
-- ■- ^"i ~-^~'^y: ,-L .LX"--:* tCTsniei on the s)
■■^» «■ - ^'-i-:; -i-n; .-.w C£.r.n.-i: htip admiring
_.--> .- i.-^-. ■.'j^-::^.^r i.r; rn; *i-i w.trk that has i
,-.*.- :rii ■■_ ;-— .' zm sirj— »itjr r^;;rses in ordc
. - .: . itk t-.j:!^^ *:ie"t ue^.- i-i -■r. ti; marcb
.^-^ !». -J' ■ :^i -'li'^v.^i iT\r ~ * ri-i- :E:r.-jtes dc
._ ..*» ■ o Qi„-* r.^!' ;i -s. x^:-»::n^ what
»,.... ■>..'- .-. ■.-: ^- :. s_,-ji;=« tM r*;a»£^.r5 are
. -■ -.- ■;;.*.■■-■*...-." .--a:ir -1^ -V- ^; s:;mnier c
,■«...., -.-- - ■;■. L'^; .x-.v-s iror- .r: ^±er plac
-v : >^ ■ ■>. .-,.•_■,>.-. A rx- iCi ^.-ws :.- the kin
^ -.■. ■^-. -;x r:.s ri.v j# r:t s-jch a h
X V' x >*- :>' .•-■-;*"-■■.■ -•» Z'--^ tix vi-ts wmet
■\. -*.-, i-s ^jf '■^■•i ~' "live pro\H
V ■ ■. •■■•-■.-^ ■ -- -^-•- 'i-' ' -Tj :~i>V-l:r:i: to
i--^ ^ •^ . > - ^•--: ::•- '"t;-: :r :hecou
., . .... > .■ . _> >:v - ■;- -■■"-•^ -■: i^-'IJJer
^ , . , -, ■ -w .-1..-V.-,'. If i.^; ^-:;i^e^s or
:> vi.;.^">. ■'■■^v ii;e.;:e- J-.;: o:"h
_^ ,.: . -iv-:^ r: s.•■■i.^e .v-i;::on.
^^ ^ . I. .■ .v-;>.".- 1 .-:;;■ ,-;';^e "-TTh shoul
C -v i i. ■-■ -'^' .v.rr. "^r.'u* or a small dis
" "^ , :.^ .. I-.--, s :r ^•■.v i:^'.> -<er.: oft" to b
. ^, ■,.^ I,., ,.. I.L-. ?-■ X- S>.- or. i:s way there
(.-■-v ,v i-t-"* -t* J" r;;r.:shment for S'
-• - >
\.i..
AGRICULTURE AND ANIMALS 263
all the same, and then coinpromise the requisition for half
its value in coin. This is how the courtiers and soldiers of
fortune that »re always found in^the vicinity of the palaces
of the great men make their living, and how the chief of my
escort from Macalie to Adese-Ababa enriched himself en
rouU, and doubtless did the same thing on his return as well.
From these exactions it will be seen that farming and
cultivating in Abyssinia has its drawbacks, and the cultivators
have to put more ground under crops than what they other-
wise would have to do if they only had to feed thcnisclvcs
and pay only the ten per cent tax.
It is impossible for this state of alTairs to continue for
many years more, as the peasants are bcginnii^ to know too
much, and are better armed than formerly ; when the regular
soldier only had firearms, a few of them could overawe a
large district ; now soldier and peasantry, owing to the latter
having purchased the means to defend himself, arc more on
an equality. When tlie Egyptians were in Harar and the
north, at Keren, they took every precaution to prevent the
inhabitants getting arms; and even now the Abyssinians
pursue the same policy with the people round Harar, fearing
a rebellion amonR the Mahomedans. Their method of taxa-
tion was the &amc as employed in Abyssinia, and their tax
collectors and bashi-bazuks had an easy task in gettinj^ in the
taxes and enriching themselves at the same time ; but now in
the north, thanks to the new policy pursued by Italy in their
colony at Krithrea, their peasantry are commencing to be
better off than ihcy ever were before, and they can live in
better st>'le, build bigger houses, cultivate more land, cat and
drink more, keep more cattle and wear better clothes, or in
other words, enjoy life with more freedom and perfect
security than at any time in their country's history. The
consequence is that there is a steady influx of Abyssinians
into the colony, and it only wants a little time before the
Hamasen and the north will again become one vast grain
Aeld, and the population, especially of Tigr^ and Amhara,
will long to enjoy the same privileges.
It is a pity for Italy that she commenced her former
movement too quickly, and slie has only to persevere with
her present policy and she will reap a glorious harvest
in future. England having lost the Harar provinces
during the time of the power of the " Lesser Englishmen,"
baji no place in the neighbourhood where she can set the
natives the same example : namely, allowing them to live in
262 MODERN ABYSSINIA
water, and the channels that are used for irrigating; the fields
in the dry season are made use of as ditches, to cany the
water into the natural bed of the drainage. In making use
of the rivers for irrigating purposes, a deep and therefore
smooth water stretch is chosen to take the water from, and
the channels are often miles in length and led along at the
foot of the hills, so the sloping sides of the valleys between
the hills and their lowest levels may be watered when
required. The amount of labour expended on the system
is often very great, and one cannot help admiring the
natives for their ingenuity and the hard work that has to be
done every year to keep the small water courses in order.
Very often the soldiers when they are on the march and
cannot procure supplies from the natives, break down the
slight banks of the channels, and in a few minutes destroy
the labour of perhaps many days. Knowing what will
happen if they do not give supplies the peasants are more
easily imposed upon, and the soldiers, when going through
a country that depends upon irrigation for the summer crops,
always demand more from the people than in other places.
The tenth of the produce of the soil goes to the king or
the ruler of the province ; and this tax is not such a heavy
one to be borne, but the collector of the tax wants sometiiing
for himself, and the soldiers also have to have provisions
given them, and officials with their servants travelling to and
from the chief towns also have to receive free rations from
the villages, so if there is any great movement in the country,
or wars or rumours of wars and large forces of soldiers on
foot there is no end to th? taxation, and the villagers on tfie
line of march and in its neighbourhood are eaten out of house
and home, and are left in a most miserable condition.
Supposing, for an example, a chief of the north should be
considered by the king to be contumacious or a small dispute
between them arise, a force is immediately sent off to bring
him to order. This force has to be fed on its way there and
back, and is quartered perhaps as a punishment for some
time in the territory of the chief who has had the difference
on some slight matter with the king. Not only do the
subjects of the individual who has had the dispute suffer,
but the peasantry of the whole districts through which the
force passes ; and on the return the officer in command will
take great care that he does not follow the same route by
which he came, as he will put a fresh district under con-
tribution i and if he does not require food he will demand it
AGRICULTURE AND ANIMALS 263
all the same, and then compromise the requisition for half
its value in coin. This is how the courtiers and soldiers of
fortune that arc always found in^the vicinity of the palaces
of the great men make their living, and how the chief of my
escort from Macalle to Adesc-Ababa enriched himself rn
rtmU, and doubtless did the same thinj; on his return as well.
From these exactions it will be seen that farming and
cultivating in Abyssinia has its drawbacks, and the cultivators
have to put more ground under crops than what they other-
wise would have to do if they only had to feed themselves
and pay only the ten per cent tax.
It is impossible for this state of affairs to continue for
many years more, as the peasants are beginning to know too
much, and arc better armed than formerly ; when the r<^lar
soldier only had firearms, a few of them could overawe a
large district ; now soldier and peasantr>'. owing to the latter
having purchased the means to defend himself, are more on
an equality. Wlien the £g>'ptians were in llantr and the
north, at Keren, they took every precaution to prevent the
inhabitants getting arms ; and even now the Abyssinians
pursue the same policy with the (wople round Harar, fearing
a rebellion among the Mahomedans. Their method of taxa-
tion was the same as employed in Abyssinia, and their tax
collectors and bashibazuks had an easy task in getting in the
taxes and eniichinjj themselves at the same time ; but now in
the north, thanks to the new policy pursued by Italy in their
colony at Erithrea, their peasantry arc commencing to be
better off than they ever were before, and they can live in
better style, build bigger houses, cultivate more land, eat and
drink more, keep more cattle and wear belter clothes, or in
other words, enjoy life with more freedom and perfect
security than at any time in their country's history. The
consequence is that there is a steady influx of Abyssinians
into the colony, and it only wanLs a little time before the
Hamasen and the north will again become one vast grain
field, and the population, especially of Tigr^ and Amhara,
will long to enjoy the same privileges.
It is a pity for Italy that she commenced her former
Bovement too quickly, and she has only to persevere with
present policy and she will reap a glorious harvest
future. England having lost the Harar provinces
luring the time of the power of the " Lesser Englishmen,"
^Itas no place in the neighbourhood where she can set the
natives the same example : namely, allowing them to live in
254 MODERN ABYSSINIA
European woman of double the age. The upper classes
keep their good looks longer, but at thirty-five they are
entirely passi, their profiles atone being good ; some of
them m^e handsome old ladies, while others are perfect
old witch-like hags at fifty. They are, as a rule, industrious,
■hard-working and good-tempered, ever ready to do a good
action, and they certainly make good wives when they once
settle down. They are not more immoral that the women
of other countries, but there is a certain laxness before they
are married which is thought nothing of, but they are true
after the marriage ceremony has been performed in church
and the sacrament has been taken together. They will look
out after their husband's children, Intimate or ill^timate,
the same as their own, but it is only natural that they should
prefer the ones they have borne themselves and take the most
care of them. Their great drawback is their dirtiness, but
all those that get the chance of being clean keep themselves
very neat and tidy, and many of them make good domestic
servants, first-rate cooks, laundresses and dressmakers.
The Abyssinian women have always been great favourites
with the Turks, ^fyptians, Armenians, and many of the
Levantine races. Many of the officials in Turkey, Egypt,
and Arabia have been the offspring of Abyssinian women.
The cross between the Abyssinian and European, and the
Abyssinian and Levantine races show no signs of deteriora-
tion, as far as I have seen. Many of the children are much
finer and better-looking than the ordinary male Abyssinian,
and they grow into fine strong athletic men, and are intelligent
and clever, soon picking up languages or trades of all sorts.
The women are also handsomer and quicker at learning
than their mothers, and in features and colour could very
well be taken for inhabitants of Southern Europe.
The cross between this Semitic race and the Caucasian
has not the great objections as that of the Caucasian with
the negro ; the offspring from these two is a grave mistake,
as the racial fcetor of the negro never thoroughly dies out,
and even the character of the progeny, although it may be
sightly better than that of the true negro, often shows great
vindictiveness and moroseness, and many other bad qualities.
Here also in Abyssinia the cross between the Semitic race
and the n^ro is not a success, and I should have no hesita-
tion in saying that the majority of the criminals and the
more lawless of the population belong to this class, and
the cruelty of some of ttie rulers may be accounted for by
BUILDINGS AND INHABITANTS 255
a mixture of n^ro blood, perhaps three or four or more
generations aga It is a most interesting question, and may
take several generations to decide, what the future of the
present cross that is growing up will turn out, and whether
a true bred Caucasian and Semitic will, in this instance, be
a success or not ; all those that I have seen, both male and
female, perhaps two to three hundred in all, are improvements
and not deteriorations. I could give many examples, but they
shall be nameless, as their Ei^^Ush and Italian fathers, or the
families of their fathers, might not care about the names
appearing in print , ,
264 MODERN ABYSSINIA
peace and aeeatity under a just government and a light
taxation. I have always tried to inculcate theae acntimenti
in the Abyssinian ; and several of the leading men, espedally
Ras Aloula, who was of a good yeoman family himself, and
the best soldier perhaps that Abyssinia ever produced, saw the
blessings of it, and from 1880 to 1 887 the peasants and yeomen
in the country which he governed greatly improved their posi-
tion ; and a good house and a full farmyard, with clean dotka
and general prosperity, did not entail an increased taxation.
The Abyssinians are not great fruit eaters, and conse-
quently do not take any great pains to cultivate it ; many of
^em Uiat have travelled and some of the upper classes how-
ever, have good fruit gardens, and grow many sorts. The
orange thrives well where it is properly looked aStex ; but it is
of the kind found in the East, and more like that which comes
from Zanzibar than any other. There are several different
kinds both of the sweet and sour sort. The lime is commoa
everywhere where the climate is not too cold ; it grows nmdt
luxuriously and bears very heavy crops, the boughs having to
t>e supported or they would otherwise break with the woght
of the fruit. The lemon is met with occasionally, but was
evidently imported by the Jesuits or Portuguese in the six-
teenth century. The peach and apricot are common in the
gardens around the more ancient towns, but they are not
particularly large, owing to the want of care in cultivating
them ; their flavour is however distinctly good. The grape
thrives with little attention and dates back to the oldest
times, and it is said that in olden days, before the Moslem
invasion, wtne was made in the country.
The banana in the tropical and sub-tropical vall^s is
very common, and the fruit most excellent. In some places
the native women have a way of preparing it by removing
the outer skin and drying it in the sun, and it then gets
candied and keeps for a long time. I have never seen this
done in any other country. There are many sorts of pumeloes.
Several, I believe, are indigenous to the countiy, and on the
base of the obelisks and tiie sacrifical stones at Axum they
are portrayed together with the fig-leaf. Figs are also grown,
but they are small and not very good. The paw-paw is found
wild in the tropical and sub-trcpical valleys, and one kind of
this tree grows up to the line of frost and is hardy. Melons
are also grown, but are not much cared for. A plum <^ a
dark purple colour has evidently been imported, and is not
a native of the country.
AGRICUT.TURE AND ANIMALS 265
The vegetables, of which there is a large assortment, are
3th indigenous and imported. Among the former is the
tomato which in many places grows wild, and there are
many sorts to be procured from the lai^c uneven one to the
smallest smooth-skinned of the size of a grape. The latter
are most delicious. The Abyssinian native doctors say that
those that eat tomatoes never sulTer from liver. The e^'
plant is found in many places in an uncultivated state, and it
is alio a common garden plant. The Galla cabbage has a
growth more like the Scotti.th kail, and reaches a height of
seven or eight feet. Ita leaves arc greatly used in stews, but
it is an insipid vegetable unless properly cooked. The bhamea
or "lady's finger" is found everywhere, and both the larger
and smaller Icinds arc excellent and greatly esteemed for
mixing with the hot sauces of red pepper used in every
Abyssinian household.
Sweet potatoes, yams, and other edible tuberous roots are
common. The common potato was rc-introduced by Pro-
fessor Schimper, the German botanist, who lived for so many
years in the country, and is now to be found wherever the
people from Amhara and Tigr^ are settled. The Abyssinian
potatoes arc of many sorts, sizes and shapes, and are quite as
good as any that can be rai.'vcd in Kuropc. I have never seen
the potato-disease, and 1 daresay our market gardeners might
like to procure some of the heavy-cropping varieties that exist,
which arc of excellent flavour and with thin skins and of
pretty shape. The water-cress was also imported by Professor
Schimper, and it is now to be found in nearly cver>' brook
and quiet stream in the northern part of the country-, and I
have had on many occasions to thank him for this very
wholesome vegetable as an addition to my lunch which very
often con.sisted merely of native bread. Two tliin slices of
Dative bread with a crisp fresh cress between is not to be
despised by a hungry man.
The pumpkin is largely grown, both for Its flesh to eat on
fast-days, and seed which is used as a medicine for internal
parasites, and the rind for making bowls to contain milk and
food. They also grow cucumbers, vegetable marrows of many
kinds, calabashes and (gourds which arc dried and used for
the same household purposes as the natives of Africa, India
and southern Europe employ them. Some of the gourds are
decorated with very tasteful designs, and make rather hand<
some ornaments. There can be no doubt that the gourd was
used as a domestic utensil long before pottery was known.
266
MODERN ABYSSINIA
The red pepper is largely cultivated throughout the whole
country wherever the soil and climate is suitable, but the'
province of Yejju grows more perhaps than any other
district, from where it is sent to alt pan$ of the south of
Abyssinia. The valleys of the upper waters of the Golima
river are nearly entirely devoted to this plant, and many
thousands of acres of it are cultivated, the fields being well
kept and irrigated by the numerous small streams. Picking
goes on more or less the whole year round, and a great
feature in the landscape are the large cemented floors on
which the crop of scarlet pods is dried. Thc>' have to be
taken in or heaped up and covered every night to prevent
the dew and rain from damping the crop, which soon spoils
unless it gets properly dried through, when it will keep for
a long time. There are many sorts of chillies cultivated.
The hottest is the small red bird's-eye, and next to this is a
very large and long red one; the orange and yellow kinds
arc more like the Ne|>al pepper and are not so powcrfuL
Red pepper forms the basis of all sauces, and some of them
arc a great deal too hot for European palates. I have often
cried and choked when trying to eat some dish of meat or
chicken that has been provided me. The Abyssinian inside
must be made of cast iron to withstand the large quantities
that they consume ; children, before they can walk, are fed
on this hot stuff and seem to thrive well on it. The Tobasco
sauce, which I should think i^ the strongest that is »old in
England, is quite cool compared to some that is used in
Abj'ssinia, and Mr Schimpcr, son of the Professor, who
travelled with me, used to take a big table-spoonful of
Tobasco with his curry and say it was not what he called
strong. Half-a-dozen drops of it arc enough for me.
Cotton in small quantities is grown in nearly every pro-
vince ; the staple is good, of fair length and ver>- strong, and
in many places quite as good as the Egyptian. Enough Js
grown for home consumption only, and all the shammas or the
Abyssinian national dress are made from thus countr)--grown
cotton. There is plenty of .suitable ground in Abyssinia that
would give large crops of this staple, but up till now it is not
exported.
Coffee is grown in the south, south-east and south-west,
and a little in the central provinces, and is largely exported
from Abyssinia. It is known in England and on the conti-
nent as Mocha long berry. It is not largely consumed in the
country except by the Maliomcdans, and wherever tliey are
AGRICUT.TURE ANB ANIMALS 267
a few trees are grown in their gardens even in the
Some of the best coffee trees that I have seen in
/ssinia were at Abbi-Addi in the Tembien province. The
bushcH arc mostiy grown in terraced gardens or in some
alluvial flat in the valleyir, which only gcti inundated to the
extent of about a foot To prevent tlie trees being uprooted
heavy stones are placed on the ground round the stems to
break the force of the water ; a little space is left between
each stone so that the water can reach the roots, and also
certain amount of fresh deposit that is brought down by
flood. Round Harar the coffee trees arc not irrigated
Ice in some districts, and the trees lose the majority of their
ives during the dry season. Pruning is little resorted to,
id the bushes are allowed to grow to a height of nine or ten
which makes it difficult to pick the crop ; the trees are
|so placed too close together. In the garden I mentioned
: Abbi-Addi, one of the Abyssinians had been to India and
coffee growing there; he had topped his coffee at
}ut six to seven feet and had cleared out the bushes when
hey had got too crowded, and he had a splendid crop, I
"liever .-aw a better one even in the palmy days of coffee
planting in Ceylon. They have not had the coffee disease
Abyssinia so far. The industry is entirely in its infancy,
ad heieafter, no doubt, a very fair living might be made in
ilis countT)' at coffee planting, labour being so easily and
lieaply procured and the cost of food so trifling.
The " geshu," a plant that is used in the making of tedj
or hydromel, the natinn;il drink, i< also largely cultivated.
|t is, I think, of the laurel tribe, as it is an evergreen, never
itircly losing its leaves. It has an insignificant tittle flower
nd the leaves have but little taste, but when added to the
?ney and water, of which tedj is made, it has a soporific
Tcct on most Europeans when some of the liquid is taken,
nd on some people and nearly to all the Abyssinians it is
intoxicant The safHowcr is grown in some parts of the
>unlry.and other dyes arc found growing wild ; these planta
are preserved and not cut down when clearing the ground
Jot cultivating.
B The cattle in Abyssinia are, in spite of want of attention,
Hery fine animals and of many different kinds, and no doubt
Iritn careful selection many of the breeds might be greatly
' improved. They mostly take after the Zebu or humped
Jescription usually found throughout Africa and the East,
jt there are also two kinds, one a very large one and
268 MODERN ABYSSINIA
another of Jersey size, that ^ow absolutely no trace of an
Eastern origin, and are as straight-backed as any English
sbort-hom. The larger one of the two ts found on the very
high plateaux of Wollo and northern Shoa, and is nearly
always of a black or dark red colour. It ha^ short stumpy
boms, a close-haired smooth coat, straight back, heavy
shoulders, good ribs, very large barrel, bones of the entire
frame very large, low on the leg, a good neck and a fairly
small head. They get very fat and as a butcher's animal
leave little to be desired. I have never we^hed one, but
when in the best condition I should think they weighed,
judging by our show cattle in England, at least 14 to 16
cwts,, and some specimens a good deal more. I believe
that if these animals were carefully selected and properly
fed when they were young that the breed might be greatly
improved and prove very valuable. They are at present
entirely grass fed, or given a little tef straw at night-time
only, when they are shut in their horrible insanitary houses.
The animals are not allowed out till the sun is well up, and
they are driven home and housed by six o'clock, so they are
only out about ten hours per day, and the rest of their time
is spent in an ill-ventilated house with scarcely a mouthful
of food. The oxen of this class are very powerful and do hard
work from the early hours in the morning till late at night,
and the bulls and cows do not work at all. The cows are
good milkers, but the milk is not so rich and good as that
given by the smaller animals.
The latter are much smaller and lighter boned, and never
exceed a live weight of about 5 to 6 cwts. in the best of
condition and 4 cwts. would be nearer an average. They are
pretty, graceful little animals, with heads not at all unlike the
Jersey breed, with similar shaped horns ; they are of all colours
except purely white, which is very rare — red-browns, duns,
creams, brindles, and a smoky colour being the commonest
These animals get very fat and their flesh is excellent, and
as they are of an economical size for slaughtering purposes,
more are kept than of the larger kind. The oxen of this
class are only used for light ploughing work on the hill-sides,
where the soil is of a more yielding nature than that in the
heavy clay and dark black soil of the valley bottoms.
What strikes a traveller greatly is, that these animals are
so quiet, allowing a stranger, even a white man, to handle
them with impunity, and they are so tame that they will
hardly get out of the way of a horseman. They differ entirely
LCRICm.TURE AND
269
from the cattle of the low countries, which are shy and
sometimra dangerous to people on foot, and I have beeo
chained on several occasions, twice having to use my rifle
and killing the uiima), which I have had to pay for; the
price was not ruinous, as before the cattle pl^^e commenced
s bullock could be bought for los. and a cow for about
double the price.
The Zebu cattle in Abyssinia are exactly the same as
those found in other places in Africa and Asia, and may be
divided into the large, medium and small breeds; they are
all capable of much improvement and no care whatever
is taken of them, and they live on what they can pick up ;
during the hot and dry season they do not get enough food
and fall off greatly in condition ; then the rains come, and
they get alternately drenched and baked by the hot sun,
whkh is liable to bring on colds owing to tlie sudden
rise and fall in temperature. The thermometer will register
about 40* during a hail-»torm, and an hour afterwards it
will be up over 100' with a bright hot sun. The >-oung
tender grass which springs up so rapidly af^cr the rains is
the only food the cattle get, on which they gorge themselves
after perhaps three months of semi'Starvation, and the change
from the dry food to a wet and juicy one, brings on bowel
complaints, and many animals die every year from the effects
of the great change of food. The rinderpest which devastated
the country was much worse after the rains than before;
when an animal was attacked with the complaint it was never
isolated from the others, but they were all shut up at night,
sick and healthy together, so no wonder the mortality was
great The bodies of the dead animals were never burnt or
buried, but allowed to rot on the pastures, defiling the
ground and spreading the disease. On several of the high
tableland mounuins where they had no intercourse with the
low country, not an animal died, and the disease seemed to
have followed at first along the roads to the different market
towns, and then spread from the roads to the surrounding
neighbourhood.
The sheep In Abyssinia are of several varieties, the
commonest being of the small mountain breed, generally
of a red, brown, and black, or a mixture of these three
colours. They cany little wool, and are only good for eating
purposes, and the ewes are not milked like some of the
fa^er sorts. A good live weight for these animals is from
30 to 30 lbs., and in some parts of Abyssinia I have bought
270
MODERN ABYSSINIA
three or four for a dollar, or aa equivalent in English money
to 2s. Their flesh is delicious, as thc>' feed on the mountain
^Bss and the sweet herbs that j^ow on the high lands, such
as wild thyme, mint, etc., which gives a peculiar flavour to
the mutton, and is very like our Welsh mutton in colour
grain.
The travellers' yams about men being able to eat a single
sheep at a meal can easily be believed when one of these
small mountain kind Ls in question, and I found my four
Somali servants could finish one off without any incon-
venience, and if they were very hungry I daresay they
could have got through two. For a starving man, an
Abyssinian mountain sheep is enough for one, but not
enough for two, as they say in England with reference
to the goose- The mountain sheep has small horns and a
short fat tail, while the larger kind has fairly Ui^c horns and
a good-sited fat Liil, but not as large as the Arabian sheep.
The laiger Ab>'ssiniiin sheep, as a nile, are not found on
any of the highcit plateaux, but are kept to the lower and-j
middle elevations. They carry a much tliicker fleece than
the mountain sheep, and go from 45 lbs. to 60 lbs. live weight
Some, however, that have been made pets of, and fed with
grain, will weigh as much as 80 to 100 lbs., and 1 have seen
one when cleaned, and with its head, inside, and skin removed,
which weighed 96 lbs. It was ver>' fat, and the flesh was very
good, but not nearly ot .such good flavour as tlie mountain
mutton. These sheep just mentioned may have been the
original breed of the country, as they are of diflferent shape
to the other sorts, and cross breeds. The black heavy
fleeced animals of the WoUo country, that give the wool|
from which the Wolio Gallas make their tents, blankets^ 1
clothes, and overcoats, are exactly similar to the central
Arabian animal, and no doubt originally came from there.
This sheep is about the size of a South Down, and is nearly
always black, very few of them shewing the least sign of
any otlier colour.
The cross breeds are evidently between the sheep from the
Danakil country, and from the Soudan, and the Abyssinian ;
they are what may be termed hair coated, as the only trace
of wool, of very bad quality, is about the shoulder and flank.
Their boms and cars arc very small, and they have long
thin tails, and fltand ver>' high on the leg. They are of
all colours, generally a white ground with red, black, I>rown,
yellow and brindle spots, and a large flock of these animals
AGRICULTURE AND ANIMALS 271
when feeding on the hilbtdc, or in the grass fields, enlivens
the landscape greatly. The flesh of these animals Is inferior
to that of the other breeds.
The cwcs of Che larger kinds as soon as they have lambed
arc separated from the young, and arc milked ri^ularly every
evening, and the lambs arc only allowed with 3icir mothers
during; the nipht; the you n^ arc thus kept without sucking
from about seven o'clock in the niornini; till about the same
time at night, and consequently do not thrive as they other-
wise would do if always left with their mother. Twin lambs
are not nearly as common in this country as in Europe,
and triplets are .scarcer still.
The wool from all tlic sheep in Abys-sinia, with the
exception of the black WoUo Galta breed, is most inferior,
and the upper down country, which is admirably suited for
sheep-farming, will never yield a satisfactory return until
a better breed is imported, and then the export of wool
wilt become of some importance. The sheep throughout
Abyssinia can pick up a living where cows and even ;;oats
will starve, but still to tide over the three dry months, a
little hay might be got together with little trouble, and given
th« animals at night time, when they are housed.
The goat is found ever>'whcre throughout Ab>'ssinia, and
consist of large, medium, and small kinds. The large kind
is highly prized, both for the milk and for the flesh of the
males, which loses all its rankncss when ihcy arc castrated
soon after birth, and they then grow to an immense size, and
get very fat. The price of a cut goat is very often double
or treble of that of a sheep, although they do not weigh
twice the weight. The horns of the large goats are often
tbirty inches in length, and .stand up straight from the head,
and look more like the horn.s of an antelope than of a goat ;
some of the honis have a slightly forward bend, and when
the animal stands .sideways, the two horns arc in line, and
only one can be seen ; they arc then not unlike the picture
of the mythical unicorn. The medium sized animals produce
a good quantity of hair, that is also used for making into
cloth, and the smallest sized beasts have smooth coats, and
are kept for their milk and ilcsh. The goat feeds amongst
the scrub, and is not allowed to go so far from the villages
as the sheep. The latter, except during the lambing season,
are driven to the upper dovims by the sliepherds, and often
remain there till the rainy season sets in, when tJiey return
to the vallc>'s and the vicinity of the villages.
- .vrhaps running through tl
-.- -"-V* piving tongue. The doj
;.■ ar.:elope always run mut
:.:; ?^ck fails to kill. Unie:
, , ■■ :hi're is not much of th
- -:?:!>- by hunting. They ki
- xs i^-i the larger dogs will als
■:■ -,;!!* a prey to them, but the
; . ays tr>" to bite at the thi
J.-. :'r.£ stomach underneath th
. ._; .-.•iitt-nts himself by barking a
, 1 ;.< '.iX when the dogs belongin
•->N j: :he villages, as they alway
. V." nukes a terrible noise witi
. . ■. The short neck of the hyen.
' r:.<i-':' so well from a rear attac)<
"y :.■ know from experience. On
, . ^.- ^-r^cicnt to break a dog's lej
. • ■i.-.i:!)- always proves fatal, as thi
. ;:,''s^. -»nd it generally carries awa]
: ■ .-i.':: bite
- .-^.- ;::>.'re partial to donkey than anj
,%vr ':- i^ hungry, no matter if then
' ■ :;!i; vicinity, it will always attacl
«.'.;.■ Sometimes if there is only {
.-^ -J.':", ^ft away, as he runs into ;
-. .-.'.fe:. with his heels, and the hyen;
.; .-i :wo about the head, makes off
AGRICULTURE AND ANIMALS 278
b^in pulling at their picket ropes and dtstitrbEng the other
mutes and horses ; and it often ends by the picketing pins
being drawn and a stampede taking place, just what the
hyenas want, and they then follow the alarmed beasts, and,
unless help speedily arrives and a shot or two fired, some
of the animals get bitten.
A riding mule of mine was attacked one night, and
defended herself by kicking at the hyena until I drove it
away with a big stick ; she used afterwards, although she
only had one tooth mark on her fetlock, to shy wherever a
'hyena had been, and sometimes in the evening I could hardly
get her along the road where it had jiassed ; she used to
prick her eart and snort, and then make a jump over its
tracks. Till a mule is bitten, it is perfectly quiet and does
not seem to take any notice of them ; but afterwards they
become very nervous and timid. I remember one moonlight
cveRii^, just after sunset in the Wollo country, seeing a herd
of brood marcs and their mule and horse foals chasing a
hyena that had come out of its den earlier than usual, and
they knocked it over, and kicked it several times, before it
got away howling with fright. The Gailas, to whom the
animals belonged, had great trouble to get them back to the
village to shut them up.
It is hard to say where the original horse came from En
Abvssinia, as it is not like the Arab, being a much meaner
looking beast; in shape it is more like the Dongolowie, but
it lacks the Roman nose of the latter, nor is it such a large
animal. The Somali horse is not unlike the Abyssinian, but
still they differ, as the former is much lighter and inferior to
the latter, which perhaps may be accounted for by in and in
breeding, and being nearly entirely a grass fed animal. The
Abyssinian horse lacks the many marked bad ]x>ints, such
as the fiddle head, the ewe neck, slack loins, long springy
pa.stem, and the peculiarly ugly set on of the tail of the Dongo-
lowie animal, and is a more compact beast. It is used mostly
in time of war by the upper classes, who always prefer riding
a mule when travelling. The war horses that are ridden by
the upper classes arc invariably well kept, and some of them
arc vcr>' fine animals, about fifteen to fiftct-n and a half hands
in height I do not think that if the whole country was
searched, there would be a sixteen hand horse found. The
average height is about fourteen to fourteen and a half hands,
and a small pony is curiously enough never seen. The
peasants and soldiers are the people who mostly ride horses,
S
274 MODERN ABYSSINIA
and they take very little care of them ; others are lued as
pack animals for transporting merchandise, but they do not
carry such heavy weights aa the mules, nor are they ao good
at marching in rainy weather, or as sure-footed when loaded
in a rocky countiy. Being mostly fed on grass they are
generally in soft condition, and easily chafe and gall, and
die sores on the withers, back, belly, and sides are some^iing
terrible to look at
The Gallas keep more horses than the Abyssinians, and
in olden days they used to raid the fertile parts of Abyssinia,
and came from great distances without any wamiog. Being
mounted and armed with a long lance, besides their throwing
spears, they were more than a match for the peasant on foot,
with only a sword and shield to defend himself with. The
Abyssinian, with his breech-loading rifle and cartridges, now
does not care for the Galla lancer, who if he has a rifle is
generally a bad shot, and has to dismount to use it, and he
then is at the mercy of the better shot The Galla is a better
horseman than the Al^sstnian, but not nearly so good on
foot
The Abyssinian when flghting against a civilised force
also fights on foot, like a mounted infantry man, and only
uses his horse to cany him quickly from one position to
another. The beasts as a rule have wonderfully good l^a
and hoofs ; they are never shod, and the hoof never seems
to get diseased, nor are sicknesses of the 1^ so prevalent as
in England or Europe. The riding and pack horses are
always geldings, and stallions are seldom ridden. There
seems to be little or no selection made by keeping a good
stallion to cover a select number of mares, and they are both
allowed to run together ; and the consequence is that the foals
are inferior, and little or no attention is paid to them from the
time they are bom until they commence to be ridden when
they are rising three. They have the cruel ring bit put in
their mouths, and are saddled with the bad fitting wooden
saddle, and in their first stru^les they generally get badly
marked in the mouth and back, and the more courage the
animal has, the more he gets punished ; it is no wonder that
the Abyssinian horse is, after he has first been broken, a
timid, cringing animal Compare the treatment of the Arab
foal to that of the Al^ssinian ; the former is caressed and
fondled from the day of its birth, and is a plaything and a
pet of the Arab children, and before it is a month old the
youngest child has perhaps been seated on its back. It is
AGRICULTURE AND ANIMALS 275
as a rule only tbe low class Arab that shows vice, which
generally arises from bad treatment; the Abyssinian horse is
seldom or never petted, and his vice is simply nervousness,
which he invariably exhibits in strange places and with
strange people. It takes some little time for him to gain
confidence tn a new master, but when he gets into European
hands, and is well treated and ridden with a common snafflc-
btt and a comfortable saddle he soon improves, and becomes
a docile and easy beast to ride.
They are not noted for being good trotters, but they
canter in the smoothest manner possible and will travel great
distances at this pace. They gallop very fast for a short
distance, and at half a mile will hold their own with any
Arab ; with care and attention they would make good polo
mounts, as they are very sure footed, and very quick at
turning. The mares arc seldom ridden, and arc kept for
breeding puq^oses ; in some parts of the country large droves
of many hundreds are seen, many of them being very
pretty animab and of good shape, being stoutly built
and on clean legs, and no doubt if put to a good sire,
capable of producing an excellent class of medium sized
animal. No one has ever tried importing good blood to cross
the marcs with, and considering a mare only costs about 30s.
to 60s. and grass is to be had for nothing, when the country
gets more settled, breeding ponies may become a paying
occupation.
Mules are always bred from the mare, and sired by the
donkey; the Abyssinian always breed the first foal out of a
brood mare with the horse, and then the next if possible with
the donkey, and then alternately with the horse and donkey
The mules seldom exceed thirteen hands in height, and are
for the size very strong animals, considering they are so light
boned. They carr>' very well a weight including saddle of
300 lbs., but a traveller should, if he wants to march quickly
and keep his transport animals in good condition, not load
more than 160 lbs. ; with this weight he should be able to
make comfortably at least twcnt>' miles per diem. I weigh
over 14 stone, and with my saddle and what 1 carried on it,
1 daresay the weight came nearly to 330 lbs. ; my little
thirteen and a half hand mule carried me on one of my visits
from Massowah all through Abyssinia to Zeilah on the
Somali coast, and no day seemed to be too long for her, and
she was in better condition and fatter at the end of tbe
journey than when she started-
278 MODERN ABYSSINIA
Witii care and not ovcrladtng these awimak ^ay hard
work can be got oat of them, and they will {Mck op a Uvinc
when a horse would starve: They take after thetr dams
more than their sires, and with the exception of the ear^
tbey look more like compact little horsesi They g^Uop^ trot,
and canter well, and some of them arc fast iralken, going
from three to three and a half miles an hour over bad groand.
In colour they are mostly browns, bays, chestnuts, duns and
whites ; but party-coloured ones are not very common, thou^
their dams are of all colours : duns, cream colour, skewbalds,
piebalds, spotted whites, and all sorts of fancy colours besides
ordinary ones ; and in no other o>untry have I seen so maiqr
varieties of curious marked animals fitted for circus wort.
The eyes of the horses are also of such peculiar colours; and
many of them have eyes entirely difTerent Light bine and
a silvery white being very uncommon, and which gives the
animal an ugly appearance ; they however do not transmit
this defect to their progeny by the donkey except on rare
occasions.
The donkeys that are used as sires are very small, but
they are chosen from the lai^est that can be found in the
country, say from eleven and a half to twelve hands at the
most The majority, however, hardly reach eleven hands,
and this small class of animal accounts for the mules not
being large. An occasional cross is seen, of which the horse is
the father and the she-ass the mother ; but they are very small
and very often what might be called deformities. The late
King Johannes' dwarf and jester had two which were kept as
curiosities, and he used to ride them on holidays ; but when
he was serious, which he could be at times, he always got
angry if he was chaffed about them.
Up till the present time Abyssinia has had no cause to
improve her breed of cattle, as her native neighbours have
been content to purchase what she had for sale, and the
horned cattle in most cases were better than they could pro-
duce. The European will require a better animal, and the
Italians have already turned their attention to improving the
breed. For many years to come there is a good probability
of a good cattle trade being done from Abyssinia to the
Soudan, Egypt and Aden; and Abyssinia, if there is no return
of rinderpest, will shortly be able to export largely, at the
seasons of the year when grass is in sufficient quantities along
the roads to enable the animals to graze their way without
losing flesh. Abyssinia combines every element for success-
AGRICULTURE AND ANIMALS 277
ful stock raising : good grass, plenty of cheap grain and a
good cHmatc, and no doubt when the country opens up and
Europeans are allowed to hold property there, that large
exports of cows, sheep, horses, and mules will take place.
The country will always be noted for its gocKl cereals.
Wheat grown to perfection and yields a fine hard grain of
large sif^; there are many sorts cultivated, red, yellow, and
the kind known as white. The best and the one that gives
the heaviest crop has eight rows of grain on each car, and
is very like what is known as mummy wheat. I have seen
fields of this com growing near the towns that no doubt have
received a plentiful supply of manure, quite equal to any-
thing that wc can produce in England. Barley is by far
the largc-Nt crop of the country, and it is of most excellent
quality wherever care is taken in its cultivation. The
majority of it is grown on the bleak, bare uplands, and is
noUiing like so good in quality as that grown in the more
sheltered valleys ; there are many varieties of this grain,
and several kinds with eight rows of ears the same as the
wheat ; the cereals do not grow to any great height, and are
short and stout in tltc stntw.
On the coins of the ancient dyna.<ity of Axum an car of
grain is placed on each side of the head of the king or ruler
of the country, and this no doubt represents the eight lined
barley of Abyssinia. There is a black barley and also a
little black wheat found, which I do not remember to have
seen in.any other country ; the grains of both are excellent
and very plump. Oats arc not grown, but a few plants of
them are found growing amongst the wheat and barley.
The natives u.se wheat meal and barley meal, but curiously
enough not oat meal. I always take a lai^c stock of the latter
with me when travelling, also pearl barley, and all the natives
who have tasted them like both very much and always in-
quire what sort of grain they come from ; and when I point
to the despised oat, which grows very well in the country,
they are astonished, and many of them have asked me to
bring them, the next time I come, some English oats as
seed. The pearl barley I have had many a joke out of, get-
ting them to plant it, and when they complained that it would
not come up, saying that their ground was no good. When
grinding corn or barley to make flour from the>' first care-
fully remove all the oats or other seeds, and they arc given
to the chickens only and not to the horses, as they have an
idea it is bad for them.
278 MODERN ABYSSINIA
Abyssinia could prcxluce a great deal more grain than ft
does at present, but there is little or no mancet for ainr
surplus crop, and the natives do not dare put too niu^
ground under cultivation owing to the taxation and In-
security of the country and the reasons I mentioDed befbrb
There are no wind-mills or water-mills in the country, and
the grain is all ground in the same manner as it used to be
thousands of years ago, namely by the women between
two rubbing stones. The flour prepared in this way is,
of course, not nearly so good and more gritty than tiiat
ground t^ machinery, and the number of hours lost per
annum in this country over tumit^ grain into flour t^ hind
labour, instead of employing machinery, must be something
enormous.
Chickens are the only poultry that the Abyssinians keep^
and they are very small, but when young and fat are not
bad eating. In central Abyssinia they have little or no valu^
and as many as a hundred can be purchased for an equiva-
lent of two shillings. Eggs of course are very cheapo and
by giving a woman a common coloured pocket-handkmhief,
that costs less than a penny, any quantity can be procured.
The eggs are small like those in Egypt, and the bens peiiiaps
have not the energy to make them any larger, but in a
temperate climate like Abyssinia they ought not to have
the same excuse as the hen that lives in a hot one. Ducks
and geese are not eaten so they are not kept, but where
there is water, wild ones of many sorts are found. Two
kinds of geese are common, the ^yptian, and a grey one
a little larger, that is mostly confined to the Galla country.
There are about twenty different sorts of duck, and the
divers, such as the pochard, are well represented. The
common teal, the gargeny, and the shovelur are the com-
monest of the European kinds.
The pig is not kept in Abyssinia, but a few imported
specimens are found at Asmara, brought there by the Italians,
and at Harar, by the Greeks and Armenians, Ras Merconen,
the king's nephew, who has been to luly, keeps pigs, but I
do not know whether he eats them. The rabbit and hare
are not eaten ; the former does not live in the country, and
is represented by a few imported specimens, and the latter
is looked upon by the Ab)'ssinian with abhorrence as bdng
an unclean animal.
The cat is kept throughout as a domestic animal the
same as In other places, and is very useful in killing the
AGRrClTLTimE AND ANIMALS 279
r*t» and mice with which some of the houses swarm im-
mediately the rains set in and they arc driven from the fields.
These cats are real moiisers and ratters, and not the pampered
things one sees in England. Some of the cats arc very
pretty, and a cliinchilla coloured one, which ha^ often eyes
of different colour, generally light blue and yellow, would
^be well worth importing. I got three kittens of this breed
given mc at Axum, and I intended bringing them home with
me, but unfortunately I did not return there.
The only dogs that differ from an ordinary pariah are the
greyhounds of Walkett, always used for hunting ; they arc
hardly as big as the English kind, and are a trifle heavier
boned and not quite so long in the head. They arc generally
of a red or brown colour. They make good pets, and are
very affectionate and intelligent when once they have been
kindly treated. They are splendid watch-dogs, and very
E plucky even to rashness. This tintslies the list of domestic
animaU .and birds that are found in tlic country ; the pigeon
is not found in a domesticated state, but there Ls one pigeon
which is nearly so, as it builds in the churches and is never
molested. It is about the size of our largest blue rocks, but
the blue colour is replaced by a rich chestnut bronze, and it
is a handsomer bird than the English.
The civet cat is also caught and kept in cages, and some-
times breeds in captivity; It is kept for its musk, which Is
an article of commerce. The glan<ls in which tlie musk is
secreted are cleared out with a small bone spoon, and tlie
deposit kept in tightly secured cow-horns. Some of the
Abyssinians keep as many as one hundred of these animals
which arc sltut up in small cages or boxes, and they arc
allowed hardly any exercise, and the fatter they arc kept
and the less they walk about the more musk they secrete.
They are generally fed on chickens or small birds, which are
killed when they congr^^te on the grain crops, or are snared
in nooses or caught witli bird-lime
The bee is extensively kept in some parts of the country
where the wild honey is not sufficient, but in others the supply
entirely depends on wh.it can be found among the rocks and
hollow trees. Honey is wanted for the manufacture of tcdj
or hydromel and for makii^ sweetmeats and other dishes.
Large quantities of beeswax are exported both from the
noTUi and south, but some of the rich people waste theirs,
and do not keep it for the pedlars who come round and
collect a little from each village. The export no doubt
280 MODERN ABYSSIXIA
could be raised lai^ely. The hives in which die bca m
kept are either made out of clay or out of a stem of a hollo*
tree, and are generally placed inside the houses for protection,
A couple of small holes are bored througfb the wall of tlic
house to allow the bees to enter their hives. Some are placed
under the thatched eaves of the houses or in a secure place
in the garden, where the great enemy to the bees, the ratd
[mellivora rattl) cannot get at them. In some parts of die
country, where property is secure, the hives arc kept hai^iDE
up in the trees near the woods, and as many as a hundred a
these long wooden cylinders, which are often five to six fed
in length by about two feet in diameter, may be seen in a
short distance of each other. The favourite tree selected ii
the wanza, on account of its laige white trusses of flower
which contains a lot of honey. I do not know the correct
botanic name for this tree, but it mostly resembles the catalpi,
which is often seen in some of the old-fashioned gardens in
England. It bears a dark purple fniit about the size of a
cherry, which is very good to eat
The honey that the bees make from the wanza is deliooui
and pure white, and fetches a liigher price than the darker
sorts. Another honey that is greatly esteemed is that wliich
comes from the highlands of Waag, Lasta and Yejju, wheie
the giant erica or white heath is found. Few people know
that the little white heath, that is seen in the florists' shops
and greenhouses in England, grows into a lovely tall tree,
sometimes reaching a height of fifty to sixty feet, and in
parts of the year is covered from its base to its top with one
mass of flower. It is perfectly hardy, as where it is found
they have snow and sleet and sharp frosts at night, the
puddles on the roadside being covered with ice. It, how*
ever, melts quickly as soon as the sun comes out, which it
generally does during some part of the day.
The quantity of wild flowers in Abyssinia besides the
bean, pea, and the various other pulses that are largely
cultivated, always provides food for the tame and wild bees,
and there is always something for them to gather, except
perhaps in the height of the dry season, when they become
least active. I have often sat at the edge of a cliff and
watched the bees coming up from the warm valleys to gather
honey from the flowers on the downs, one constant stream
coming backwards and forwards. On rising from the valley
they clear the edge of the cliff by about a couple of feet, and
on their return they fly higher and, when Uiey reach the
AGRICULTURE AND ANIMALS 281
edge, they seem to shut their wings and fall rapidly down to
their hives in the valley situated many hundred feet below.
Here the beautiful little emerald and gold bee-eater may be
seen levying toll on the passing insects, always choosing the
bees laden with honey in preference to those that are setting
out to obtain a supply.
CHAPTER XII
RAS MANGE5HA
THE weather was so bad in )uly at Adowa, it being tbe
height of the rainy season, that it was iinp<»sible to be
out of doors the whole day long. The early mornings weie
generally fine, and it used to clear up about sunset again, bvt
during the whole middle part of the day it was one incessant
downpour of rain and thunderstorms, and again at nigfat tiie
rain and thunder were constant The only way to go oa
with my researches of the battle-field was to start at gr^
dawn and get back before the bad part of the rain set in.
The Assam river was always high in the early morning, and
it entailed getting wet through with the nearly ice cold wate^
and riding in wet clothes till breakfast-time at about ten v
eleven o'clock. I managed to do every part of the field excqit
the part to the east of Mount Raio on the line of retreat.
1 shall always remember the last morning that I was well
enough to get out My morning cup of tea had been made
in the dark, and the only water to be procured was of a daik
orange brown owing to the heavy rain, and I found a lot of
human hair in the bottom of the cup, evidently from s«Be
dead Italian. A day or two before I had found a faumM
toe-nail in my bath-water, and I simply collapsed with (ens
and disgust at the horrible work, and for ten days I did not
much care what became of me. Mrs Ledg Mertcha nursed
me, and she and one of my servants fed me with new miU;
raw eggs and strong broth, and no one could have been kinds
to me than the people of Adowa. Ras Aloula, who was it
his new stronghold at Hassena some ten miles ofT, used to
send daily to enquire afler me, and the officials of Holf
Trinity Church and the priests used to vie with each other to
see what attention they could pay me.
For books I had part of several novels, Hent/s " Acconnt
of the 1 868 Expedition," half of James's " Wild Tribes of die
Soudan" and some other remnants of Ledg Mertcha's libraif
that had been destroyed by General Baratieri's irregulan
RAS MANGESHA
283
when they looted the town, not a wliole book remained. The
birds were my great source of amusement during the day, as
a fig tree shad^ the window alongside of my bed, and I u^cd
to watch the many beautiful specimens that used to visit it
for its fruit. A pair of bulbubs got quite tame, and used to
come rqjuiarly several times a day to the window-sill to be
fed on dates which they would peck off my hand. The house
martens had their nests inside the window and were feeding
tfaeir young ones all day long, and I ^ould not like to say
how many hundreds of times per day they brought house-
flies to their nests for the young birds. At night-time the
jerbillc mice used to play about, and they also got quite
tame, scrambling for bits of bread which I used to drop off
my bed for them.
The first of the wet weather broke up after a rain-storm
that lasted for two whole days and part of the third night,
during which I should not like to say how many inches of
water fell. I do not think there was half an hour during the
whole of this time that the rain left off. When there was no
steady downpour there wiLS a driz/le like a Scotch mJsL Many
of the roofless houses tumbled down, and, as the mud got
washed out that held the stones together, I could hear them
falling from inside the house. There was a landslip in the
churchyard of the Trinity, and the big trench, in which
several hundreds of the bodies from Adowa battle-field had
been buried, opened, and the wash of the soil from the rain had
also opened many newly-made graves near the town, and when
the sun came out the smell was again intolerable. Weak as
I was, after having had fever for twenty-three days, which I
believe was enteric, i determined tn spite of a slight attack
of dysenter>- to leave at once for Axum, to get out of the
pestilential surroundings, and as the next day was fine I left
Adowa, passing on my way Captain Dc Martino's house and
garden with its corpse-cnc umbered ground and the zarcba
in which the Italian troops and the native soldiers had been
massacred by the followers of Dedjatch Beshccr. I felt better
after every mile that 1 put between myself and Adowa, and
in spite of a storm when Axum was near, that drenched mc
through, arrived at Schimper's house none the worse for the
journey. After a change of clothes and a good dinner, that
Schimper's household know to cook, I went to bed breathing
wholesome air for the first time for many days.
The next day I rented a nice clean house that had only just
been finished, situated in a good garden full of green peas,
284 MODERN ABYSSINIA
beans, pumpkins and other vegetables, with several splendid
wanza trees that gave a delightful shade, under whicfa I could
sit and recoup my strength and receive my visitors and leain
more from them of the interesting town and its history.
Schimper had left Adowa ill with fever before I got
knocked over, and he was also a wreck, his strong' frame
having shrunk with the fever, and his stout face had become
lantern jawed. His fever was also not of the malarial type,
and was of a typhoid description. Evidently Adowa and
its surroundings had been too much for both of us. Con-
valescence at Axum was charming, and I lived on the best
that the town could produce, and that was everything that
could be thought of in the shape of meat, game, fruit and
vegetables, and I had my meals at Schimper's hous^ about
a couple of hundred yards from my own, sending my cook
over mere to take up his quarters. We both soon begin
to pick up, and we used to eat three large meals per diem.
Ras Aloula was constantly in and out Axum to chuidi
on Sundays and Saints' days, and visiting his wife who was
living in his house that I formerly occupied, and I always
used to see him, and sometimes he used to ask me out b>
Hassena to breakfast The six-mile ride out was charming;
and the country was at its very best, all the trees in full leaf
and flower, the mimosas one golden mass and the ground one
kaleidoscopic carpet of wild flowers, and acres of the lovely
" cyanotis hirsuta " with its fairy-like bloom. The Ras had
chosen a very strong position to make his head-quarters at,
and had leamt a lesson from the last war, as there was no
height from which he could be shelled, and the boulder-clad
ridge offered excellent cover, as men could get in under
the rocks and be safe from bursting shell.
A few days after my arrival, I received an order from
Ras Mangesha to proceed at once to Macalle, as he had had
an answer from Cairo, and that he wished to see me at once.
I pleaded sickness, and that I was not strong enough to
travel, and the state of the roads, and that the rivers were
in flood, and I asked Ras Aloula's advice what I should do^
and he kindly wrote to Ras Mangesha, that it was impossible
for me to travel until the rains were over. We had been cut
off from the Hamasen since early July, on account of the
stone bridge the Italians had built over the Mareb bdng
entirely washed away, and my servant Hadgi Ali, who had
gone to the Hamasen for boots (as I had only one pair)
and money had not returned, and he m^;ht be indefinitely
RAS MANGESHA
285
delayed. To get round through the Agame was Impossible,
as it was in such a disturbed state, and the inhabitants of
this country' are a most truculent lot and would let no one
pass, as they were frightened of the Italians on one side and
Ras Man^sha on the other, and Ihcy did not want either of
them to know what was going on. As soon as I got better I
sent word to say I was coming, and 1 left with Schimper for
Adowa it'a Hassena to say good-bye to Ras Aloula, and
was told by him that I mu.'it not leave Adowa before I had
heard from him, as the Agame had .settled their disputes and
he did not know what would take place. " '
On arrival at Adowa I found the place comparatively'
sweet again, nothing offensive in the atmosphere, as the
heavy rains had washed the human bones completely bare,
and instead of a festering mass of humanity the skulls
shone ax white balls over the landscape ; the fields were
covered with beautiful mushrooms, but their round shape put
me »o much in mind of baby skulls, that I shuddered at the
very thought of eating them, although they arc one of my
favourite vegetables. I had hardly been in Adowa a couple
of hours before 1 heard the beat of a drum and a man crying
out. on going to the street door to see what was the matter,
I found it was a proclamation from Ras Aloula calling
every one to arms, and that further instructions would be
given as to the meeting place, but ten days' provisions were
to be got ready.
The man who had brought the proclamation was standing
by his horse which was nearly spent, its legs all of a straddle,
its head down and tail in the air, and had it to have travelled
a little further it would certainly have dropped dead. The
whole of the neighbours, men, women and children were out
of their houses in a moment, and in a few minutes several
other horsemen appean^l with fresh animals, and they were
given a copy of the prrx:lamation, and were told that the
ofder was only good a.s far as a certain district, which
included about twenty-five miles east of Adowa. The men
mounted and departed in different directions, making their
horses go at their highest speed, and so the news went abroad
to every hamlet in the district. I do not think five minutes
elapsed from the time the first beat of the drum sounded
until the new mcsseiijjcrs were out of the to^^■n, and I could
quite understand the rapid way in which news travels in
the country, and how soon a laige fighting force can be
assembled. In tlic more densely populated places a call to
i
286 MODERN ABYSSINIA
aims is known from its centre within a radius of one hundred
and fifty miles, or over a distance of three hundred miltt in loi
than twenty-four hours, and with the perfect system Chat the
Abysstnians have, a latig^ force can be concentrated at sevcnl
points in a very short time, with ample provisions for a mondt
if necessary.
I watched the householders preparing to take the field ;
one had not enough flour ground for a ten days' supply so
he sent to a neighbour's house to procure some, wfaic^ was
given without the slightest hesitation ; another neighbour's wtfe
came in to help bake the thick cakes of bread called " ham-
besha," which keep longer than the thin angara, red peiqier
was put into a small cow-hora, and a supply of dried meat
was taken out of the store, and another cow-hom was filled
with butter, and in an incredibly short time the soldier was
ready to start, his horse having been fetched from the water
meadow and saddled, and a shamma, knife for grass cuttii^
and his provisions tied in a goat or sheep skin were fastened
on his saddle. The rifle was taken from ^e wall, the cartridge
belts round the waist and over the left shoulder put on, and
the sword girt to the right side, and with a sheep skin over
the shoulders, the man was off to the market green to see if
he was the first unit on parade ready to take the field. I
went down to see the muster, and about twenty men were
already assembled on horse back, about one hundred on
mules, and a good many on foot; another messenger from
Hassena shortly arrived, and a rendezvous was given for
Legumti church, some twelve miles to the south-west, for ten
o'clock next morning, and the men went back to their homes
for the night
Soon after, Ras Aloula appeared with about three hundred
men, and the Nebrid of Axum, King Menelek's agent, was
seen coming in from the direction of Axum with about thirty
followers. The Ras sent a messenger to me to come and see
him next morning at the church of our Saviour (Medhani
Alam, the Saviour of the world) and I went off to dinner
delighted at seeing a sight that few strangers have had the
chance of witnessing. The news of the place of meeting was
sent off in a more leisurely manner than the first summons to
arms.
The governors of the large towns are responsible for
giving the proclamation due eflect, and the choums, or chie6
of villages, and the chika, or head men of the hamlets. A
choum will have a good many main chikas or minor head
RAS MANGESHA
287
men under him, and the governor of the town, if of high
enough rank, a good many choums ; all these minor officials
are chosen by the people, and the officials above a. choum arc
nominated l^ the Ras, or governor of the province. In the
appendix I give a list of oRicials according to rank, with notes
on the government of the country.
Next morning I found the Ras busily engaged before
sunrise in getting everything ready for the campaign, which
he told me privately was to be against Ras Sebat, the prince
of Agame, who had revolted against the king and Ras
Mant;<rsha, because he was not satisfied about hJs tribute, and
that he should not be allowed to govern the whole of his
province according to his own ideas, and he refused to give
the two minor rulers, the Choum-Agamie and Hagos Taferi,
their share of the taxation. He had about i joo men under
arms, all furnished with modem Wetterli breach loaders, but
the old Ras expected to have 4000 men mustered by noon
that day, and his face was wreathed in smiles at the chance
of having a turn against his enemy and strike in on his flank,
while Hagos Tafcri, with Ras Mangesha's troops, engaged
him in front
I wanted to accompany Ras Aloula and see the fun, but
he would not let me on any consideration, and told me to
make the best of my way to Macalle ; so I accordingly
started, and soon after getting away the weather that had
been fairly fine broke up again and we only got over the
Farras Mai stream in time, five minutes more and it was not
to be forded, and for about two miles we floundered through
mud and water, till at last we reached better going at the
foot of Legumti ridge, which joins on to Chelunko ridge,
over which the road to Abbi-Addl goes.
We left Chelunko church to the north, otir course being
south-cast, and we saw a large force of men already as-
sembled, and groups of three or four fully armeil men were
constantly cro&sing our path, in spite of the rain, going to
swell the muster at the meeting place ; about five miles
further we were stopped by the choum of Chelunko near
his village and told that it was unsafe to proceed, and that
he had orders to detain me until the country quieted down.
] pleaded I was in a hurr>', and that Ras Mangesha was
waiting for me, and he informed me he had already sent
a messenger on to Macalle to tell the Ras that I wa.s de-
tained, owir^ to the road not being safe, and it was almost
imposaible for mc to cross the Ghiva river while it was in
288 MODERN ABYSSINLA.
full flood, and I had better wfut till the weather got better,
and at a place where I could obtain supplies. I was of
course very annoyed, but the Choum was so kind I could
not disobey his orders, and his advice was good. I re-
mained at this camp, which was in the uncultivated part
of the district vis-d-vis to the village, for six days, with
nothing to do for the first three days but look at a rain-
sodden and watery landscape; it was useless my moving
camp to nearer the village as it was nearly all in ruins and
every house was full of inmates, and I could not find a
comer to shelter me.
The people were very civil and the women and children
used to bring down supplies for sale, and I refused to receive
rations from them, which they had been ordered to give by
Ras Mangesha, as I do not believe in levying taxes on poor
Sople who cannot afford it. They had been looted by Kii^
enelek's army of nearly everything they had and I did not
wish to take more. Here I was glad when the faithful Hadgi
Ali turned up with the news that at last he had been able to
get me some supplies across the Mareb, and he brought me
a letter from Mulazzani, an English and some Italian news-
papers, some cigarettes and pipe tobacco ; the latter had been
out for a long time, I having given it all to the Italian
prisoners, and I was on a ration of about five cigarettes a
day, and I only had enough to last me for two or three days
more. Luxuries were to arrive in a day or two and I felt
in better sorts, and Schimper was also happy that we were
not going to see Ras Mangesha empty handed, and we need
not think twice about opening a tin of provisions.
I am not aware if any of my readers know what tt is
to be run out of everything, and then, when things look
blackest, to find all of a sudden that visions of plenty are
but a few hours off; we opened a lot of things that day for
dinner and enjoyed ourselves, and I must have smoked half
a box of cigarettes that evening, and as soon as dinner was
over looked at the English paper, which contained an account
of the Derby won by the Prince of Wales's " Persimmon,"
and Schimper and I drank success to His Highness in a glass
of bydromel.
The feast of the Holy Cross was commencing, and on the
first night of the festival the Choum and his people came to
visit me, each carrying a lighted torch and singing a weird
song as they approached. I thought this was an excellent
opportunity for asking him to leave, as no news of the end
RAS MANGESHA
289
of the rebellion had reached us, and I manafred to get per-
mission to leave next morning by a bridle path across the
Ghcralta mountains to Macallc as the main road to the
CASt was still blocked. I left the majority of my stores
with the choum and only took a month's supply with me,
thinking thi!i would be more than ample, ami he promised
to return them to Adowa. I left a lot of things behind
and some money so as not to be short on ni)' return, and
I was destined, as it turned out, never to see these things
again, as circumstances over which I had no control pre-
vented me from going to the north a^ain. and all my cotlec-
tion of curiosities, presents from the natives and officials
and other things that 1 bought, till this day wait for my
return to the country. I still live in hopes of srceing the
remains of them some day.
I bought here a splendid Italian mule, a beast over
fifteen and a half hands ; it belonged to the choum and
he could do nothing with it as the poor bca.st had taken a
dislike to the Abyssinians and bit and kicked at e\-ery-
body that came near her. We arc given to believe that
a mule has only four legs, but when they arc on the ramp^c
and arc using all their legs kicking out in front and behind,
they seem to have a great many more, and this beast when
I saw the Abyssinians trying to catch her had I do not
know how many. Having bought her and paid the money,
I asked my Somali syce to go and bring her from the water
meadow to the camp ; as soon as he approached she opened
her mouth and put her cars back and went for him, and tlie
syce fled and dodged round a bush about a foot to Uie good.
I could not help laughing as the syce was nearly crying, and
would have nothing to do with what he called "Mrs Devil
animal."
I could not leave it where it was, and the choum
evidently thought that lie would again get the mule and
the money as well, so I tried my hand and put some barley,
bread and some lumpit of sugar into a basket and went up
to it, using tlie most endearing Italian terms. She hesitated
and tlien put her ears back. I kept perfectly stilt and held
out my pcaccoflcring, and at last after a snort or two she
made up her mind to sec what was in the basket ; the bread
being Abyssinian she would not touch, but pushed it away
disdainfully with her nose, but the barley she liked, periiaps
not having had any for months, and she accepted the sugar
which she must have tasted before when under the charge
T
288 MODERN ABYSSINIA
full fiood, and I had better wait till the weather got better,
and at a place where I could obtain supplies. I was of
course very annoyed, but the Choutn was so kind I coold
not disobey his orders, and hts advice was good. I re-
mained at this camp, which was in the uncultivated part
of the district vis-d-vis to the vill^e, for six days^ with
nothing to do for the lirst three days but look at a rain-
sodden and watery landscape; it was useless my moving
camp to nearer the village as it was nearly all in ruins and
every house was full of inmates, and I could not find a
comer to shelter me.
The people were very civil and the women and children
used to bring down supplies for sale, and I refused to receive
rations from them, which they had been ordered to give hy
Ras Mangesha, as I do not believe tn levying taxes on poor
people who cannot afford it. They had been looted by King
Menelek's army of nearly everything they had and I did not
wish to take more. Here I was glad when the faithful Hat^
Ali turned up with the news that at last he had been able to
get me some supplies across the Mareb, and he brought me
a letter from Mulazzani, an English and some Italian news-
papers, some cigarettes and pipe tobacco ; the latter had been
out for a long time, I having given it all to the Italian
prisoners, and I was on a ration of about five cigarettes ■
day, and I only had enough to last me for two or diree days
more. Luxuries were to arrive in a day or two and I felt
in better sorts, and Schimper was also happy that we were
not going to see Ras Mangesha empty handed, and we need
not think twice about opening a tin of provisions,
I am not aware if any of my readers know what it is
to be run out of everything, and then, when things look
blackest, to find all of a sudden that visions of plenty are
but a few hours off; we opened a lot of things that day for
dinner and enjoyed ourselves, and I must have smoked half
a box of cigarettes that evening, and as soon as dinner was
over looked at the English paper, which contained an account
of the Derby won by the Prince of Wales's " Persimmon,"
and Schimper and I drank success to His Highness in a glass
of hydromel.
The feast of the Holy Cross was commencing, and on the
first night of the festival the Choum and his people came to
visit me, each carrying a lighted torch and singing a weird
song 35 they approached. I thought this was an excellent
opportunity for asking him to leave, as no news of the end
RAS MANGESHA
289
or the rebellion had reached us. and I managed to get per-
mfssion to leave next morning by a bridle path across the
Gheralta mountains to Macalle as the main road to the
east was still blocked. I left the majority of my stores
with the choum and only took a month's supply with me,
thinking this would be more than ample, and he promised
to return them to Adowa. 1 left a lot of things behind
3ik) some money so as not to be short on my return, and
I was destined, as it turned out, never to sec these things
again, as circumstances over which I had no control pre-
vented me from going to the north again, and all my collec-
tion of curiosities, presents from the natives and officials
and other things that I bought, till this day wait for my
return to the country. I still live in hopes of seeing the
remains of them some day.
I bought here a splendid Italian mule, a beast over
fifteen and a half hands; it belonged to the choum and
■Ate could do nothing with it as the poor beast had taken a
^Wistikc to the Abyssinians and bit and kicked at every-
^■body that came near her. Wc arc given to believe that
^■B mule has only four legs, but when they arc on the rampage
and arc using all their Itgs kicking out in front and bebirid,
they seem to have a great many more, and this beast when
I saw the Abyssinians trying to catch her had I do not
know how many. Having bought her and paid the money,
1 asked my Somali syce to go and bring her from the water
meadow to the camp ; as soon as he approached she opened
her mouth and put her ears back and went for him, and the
syce fled and dodged round a bush about a foot to the good.
I could not help laughing as the syce was nearly crying, and
would have nothing to do with what he called " Mrs Devil
rmaL"
I could not leave it where it was, and the choum
evidently thought that he would again get the mule and
le money as well, so I tried my hand and put some barley,
read and some lumps of sugar into a basket and went up
it. using the most endearing Italian terms. She hesitated
id then put her cars back. I kept perfectly still and held
Jt my pcacc-offcring, and at last after a snort or two she
ladc up her mind to sec what was in the basket ; the bread
:ing Ab>'ssinian she would not touch, but pushed it away
lisdainfully with her nose, but the barley she liked, ]>erhaps
not having had any for months, and she accepted the sugar
which she must have tasted before when under the charge
T
290 MODERN ABYSSINIA
of the Italians. She then followed me to cami^ and b
soon as she got to it at once commenced chaaag titt
servants round the tent, and they sought refuge under tbe
flaps. Hadgj-AU was the first to make friends and talind
to her in Italian, and between us we put a halter on her and
tied her up with the riding mules. For a long time die
would not let anyone come near her except Haagi>Ali and
myself, and I could always clear camp of the Abysainiint
by letting her loose, and during the time that I had ber
she did considerable damage to several people who had
no right to be where they were. It proved an invaluiUe
beast, improved in condition and was a perfect picture wA
her glossy black coat and chestnut points, when I gave her
away as a present to Ras Merconen at Harar.
I rode her over all the bad rivers, as from her size ud
strength she could carry twice the weight that an Abjrssinun
mule could and would take me over a stream fairly diy
while the water was up to the backs of the native animals;
she thus could take over our stores without them getting
wet, and we used her to carry everything across stream ; the
Somalia christened her the "felucca" or boat She was not
shod and her hoofs at the end of the journey were not the
least worn. No horse, mule or donkey is shcKl in Abyssina
and one never sees an animal lame from hoof disease^
shoulder complaints, strains and rheumatism are however
very common.
What I always marvel at in Abyssinia is the wonderful
strength of the homy part of the horses' and mutes' feet, they
seem to be of a much tougher and more endurable texture
than those in Europe ; and no English animal could stand
the perpetual work over the rocks and stony ground without
going dead lame. It may be that too much attention Js paid
to the feet of our horses, and that they have deteriorated from
wearing shoes the same as the white man's feet have from
the same cause. Mud fever is not nearly so prevalent in
Abyssinia as elsewhere, and the animals' legs for months
during the rainy season are incased with dirt which is wet
when they enter their sheds at night, and hard and dry in the
morning when they are let out No one ever hears of an
Abyssinian horse's or mule's feet wanting paring. I made a
collection of four horses' and four mules' hoofs when at Adowa
to bring home with me so that I might get a veterinary
surgeon's opinion on them, but like the rest of my things
they were left behind.
RAS MANGESHA
291
Wc got away from Lcgumti in a pouring rain, and the
marching was so bad that we could make little proeress
through the deep holding soil, and we had to camp early as
it was useless going on. Wc chose a lull for putting up our
tent, and the sun came out and partly dried us and wc could
get a gliini>se of the grand Gheralta range with it« steep sides
up which we had to make our way. As soon as we got dry
a sudden tJiundcrstorm came on, and the Gheralta range was
gradually hidden until tlic whole landscape was shut out by the
thick black clouds, and Sash of lightning and crash of thunder
were simultaneous. The lightning struck a tree within fifty
yards of our tent shivering it to atoms; and I experienced
that peculiar sort of sinking feeling that comes on when one
has just passed through a near escape from a terrible accident
I looked round at Schimper and the servants, and their faces
were set as If they were bronze statues, and two of the
Ab>'ssinians were sitting on the ground and had their heads
bowed down on their knees ; the mules even had left off
eating grass and held their heads low, .snorting and trembling
with fear ; another purple blue flash, and about two seconds'
interval the thunder again rattled and died away with the
reverberating echoes from mountain to mountain.
1 do not think there is any time like when one of these
awfiil storms are going on to make one feel the littleness
and the insignificance of man, but still I like them, and
the grandeur of the elements are nowhere so great that I
bavc seen as in Abyssinia, and the little protection that a
tent gives in comparLion to a house seems to make them
the more sublime. 1 do not advise anyone that is the least
timid to try and .spend a rainy season under canvas in the
most mountainous part of Abyssinia ; English storms areas
squibs and crackers in comparison. I always remember the
thunderstorm at Zahic that lasted for three hours.
Since leaving Adowa I had hardly been dry for any
length of time, and all my clothes were more or less damp,
and I had had several touches of fever; the ducking after
this storm and the cold wind tliat followed it gave me a very
bad bout. I managed to .scramble on my mule next morning,
although shaking with fever, and made off to the valley of
the Ghiva to try our luck at crossing the river, and, if possible,
to get across the ford before another bad storm came on. It
was a lovely calm morning, such a contrast to the storm the
afternoon before, aivd the view towards the west was lovely ;
the Semien range with its snow top was clearly visible ; the
284 MODERN ABYSSINIA
beans, pumpkins and other vegetables, with several splendid
wanza trees that gave a delightful shade, under which I could
sit and recoup my strength and receive my visitors and lean
more from them of the interesting town and its history.
Schimper had left Adowa ill with fever before I got
knocked over, and he was also a wreck, his strong frame
having shrunk with the fever, and his stout face had become
lantern jawed. Hts fever was also not of the malarial type;
and was of a typhoid description. Evidently Adowa and
its surroundings had been too much for both of us. Con-
valescence at Axum was charming, and I lived on the best
a»at the town could produce, and that was everything that
could be thought of in the shape of meat, game, fruit and
vegetables, and I had my meals at Schimper's house, about
a couple of hundred yards from my own, sending my cook
over there to take up his quarters. We both soon began
to pick up, and we used to eat three large meals per dian.
Ras Aloula was constantly in and out Axum to churdi
on Sundays and Saints' days, and visiting his wife who was
living in his house that 1 formerly occupied, and I alwayi
used to see him, and sometimes be used to- ask me out to
Hassena to breakfast The six-mile ride out was charming,
and the country was at its very best, all the trees in full leaf
and flower, the mimosas one golden mass and the ground one
kaleidoscopic carpet of wild flowers, and acres of the lovely
" cyanotis hirsuta " with its fairy-like bloom. The Ras had
chosen a very strong position to make his head-quarters at,
and had learnt a lesson from the last war, as there was no
height from which he could be shelled, and the boulder-clad
ndge offered excellent cover, as men could get in under
the rocks and be safe from bursting shell,
A few days after my arrival, I received an order from
Ras Mangesha to proceed at once to Macalle, as he had had
an answer from Cairo, and that he wished to see me at onc&
I pleaded sickness, and that I was not strong enough to
travel, and the state of the roads, and that the rivers were
in flood, and I asked Ras Aloula's advice what I should do^
and he kindly wrote to Ras Mangesha, that it was impossible
for me to travel until the rains were over. We had been cut
off from the Hamasen since early July, on account of the
stone bridge the Italians had built over the Mareb being
entirely washed away, and my servant Hadgi AH, who had
gone to the Hamasen for boots (as I had only one pair)
and money bad not returned, and he might be indefinitely
RAS MANGESHA
285
delayed. To get round through the Agame wns impossible;
as it was in such a disturbed state, and the inhabitants of
this country are a most truculent tot and would let no one
rasa, as they were frightened of the Italians on one side and
Kas Man^csha on the other, and they did not want cither of
them to know what was going on. As soon as 1 got better I
sent word to say I was cominfi. and I left with Schirapcr for
Adowa via Hasscna to say good-bye to Ras Aloula, and
was told by him that [ must not leave Adowa before I had
heard from him, as the Agame had settled their disputes and
he did not know what would take place.
On arrival at Adowa 1 found the place comparatively
sweet again, nothing offensive in tlic atmosphere, as the
heavy rains had washed the human bones completely bare,
and instead of a festering mass of humanity the skulls
shone as white balls over the landscape; the fields were
covered with beautiful mushrooms, but their round shape put
me so much in mind of baby skulls, that I shuddered at the
very thought of eating them, although they are one of my
favourite vegetables. 1 had hardly been in Adowa a couple
of hours before I heard the beat of a drum and a man crying
out, on going to tlie street door to sec what was the matter,''
I found it was a proclamation from Kas Aloula calling'
every one to arms, and that further instructions would be
given as to the meeting place, but ten days' provisions were
to be got ready.
The man who had brought the proclamation was standing
by his horse which was nearly spent, its legs all of a straddle,
its head down and tail in the air, and had it to ha^-c travelled
a little further it would certainly have dropped dead. The
whole of the neighbours, men, women and children were out
of their houses in a moment, and in a few minutes several
other horsemen appeared with fresh animals, and they were
given a copy of the proclamation, and were told that the
order was only good as far as a certain district, which
included about twenty-five miles east of Adowa. The men
mounted and degiarted in different directions, making their
horses go at their highest speed, and so the news went abroad
to every h.-imlet in the district. I do not think five minutes
elapsed from the time the first beat of the drum sounded
until the new messengers were out of the town, and I could
Suite understand the rapid way in which rtews travels in
ic country, and how soon a lat^c fighting force can be
assembled. In the more densely populated places a call to
290 MODERN ABYSSINIA
of die Italians. She then followed me to camp, and :
soon as she got to it at once commenced cluuung t]
servants round the tent, and they sought refuge under tl
flaps. Hadgi-Ali was the first to make friends and talln
to her in Italian, and between us we put a halter on her at
tied her up with the riding mules. For a long time si
would not let anyone come near her except Hadgi-Ali ai
myself, and I could always clear camp of the Abyssiniai
by letting her loose, and during the time that I had h>
she did considerable dam^e to several people who ha
no right to be where they were. It proved an invaluab
beast, improved in condition and was a perfect picture wil
her glossy black coat and chestnut points, when I gave hi
away as a present to Ras Merconen at Harar.
I rode her over all the bad rivers, as from her size ao
strength she could carry twice the weight that an Abyssinia
mule could and would take me over a stream fairly di
while the water was up to the backs of the native animab
she thus could take over our stores without them gettio
wet, and we used her to cany everything across stream ; tl
Somalis christened her the "felucca" or boat She was a
shod and her hoofs at the end of the journey were not tl
least worn. No horse, mute or donkey is shod in Abyssin
and one never sees an animal lame from hoof diseaa
shoulder complaints, strains and rheumatism are howevi
very common.
What I always marvel at in Abyssinia is the wonderf
strength of the homy part of the horses' and mules' feet, the
seem to be of a much tougher and more endurable textui
than those in Europe ; and no English animal could stan
the perpetual work over the rocks and stony ground withoi
, ' going dead lame. It may be that too much attention is pai
to the feet of our horses, and that they have deteriorated froi
' . wearing shoes the same as the white man's feet have froi
the same cause. Mud fever is not nearly so prevalent i
Abyssinia as elsewhere, and the animals' legs for montl
during the rainy season are incased with dirt which is wi
when they enter their sheds at night, and hard and dry in tl
morning when they are let out No one ever hears of a
Abyssinian horse's or mule's feet wanting paring. I made
collection of four horses' and four mules' hoofs when at Adow
to bring home with me so that I might get a veterinai
surgeon's opinion on them, but like the rest of my thini
t they were left behind.
R^\S MANGESHA
291
m
In)
We got away from Legumti in a pouring rain, and tiie
marching was so bad that we could make little prepress
through the deep holding soil, and wc had to camp early as
it was useless going on. Wc chose a lull for putting up our
tent, and the sun came out and partly dried us and we could
get a K'impsc of the grand Ghcralta ranRC with its steep sides
up whicli wc had to make our way. As soon as wc got dry
a sudden thunderstorm came on, and the Ghcralta range was
gradually hidden until the whole landscape was shut out by the
uick black clouds, and flaidi of lightning and cra&h of thunder
were simultaneous. The lightning struck a tree within fifty
yards of our tent shivering it to atoms ; and 1 experience
that peculiar sort of sinking feeling that comes on when one
has just passed through a near escape from a terrible accident.
I looked round at Schimpcr and the scr\'ant5, and their faces
were set as if they were bronze statues, and two of Che
Abyssinians were sitting on the ground and had their heads
bowed down on their knees ; the mules even had left off
eating grass and held their heads low, snorting and trembling
With fear ; another purple blue flash, and about two seconds'
Interval the thunder again rattled and died away with the
reverberating echoes from mountain to mountain.
I do not think there is any time like when one of these
awful storms arc going on to make one feel the littleness
and the insignificance of man, but still I like them, and
the grandeur of the elements arc nowhere so great that I
have seen as in Abyssinia, and the little protection that a
tent gives in comparison to a house seems to make them
the more sublime. I do not advise anyone that is the least
timid to try and spend a rainy season under canvas in the
most mountainous part of Abyssinia ; English storms are as
squibs and crackers in comparison. I always remember the
thunderstorm at Zahic that lasted for three hours.
Since leaving Adowa 1 had hardly been dry for any
length of time, and all my clothes were more or less damp,
and I had had several touches of fever ; the ducking after
this storm and the cold wind that followed it gave me a very
bad bout I manned to scramble on my mule next morning,
although shaking with fever, and made off to the valley of
the Ghiva to try our luck at crossing the river, and. If possible,
to get across the ford before anotlier bad storm came on. It
was a lovely calm morning, such a contrast to the storm the
afternoon before, and the view towards the west was lovely ;
the Scmien range with its snow top was cleariy visible ; the
9
t
I
CHAPTER XIII
MACALLE
ACALLE is a most charmingly situated town, and it
occupied berore the war a good lai^ area and perhaps
nsisted of about 500 enclosures with four to six houses
each; Riving six inhabitants to a house would bring its
rmancnt population up to about 15,000, which had been
reduced to about the half by the war and famine. The
majority of the trees in the gardens had been cut down for
defensive purposes and for firewood, and part of the tovm
had been looted both by the Italians and King Mcnelek's
troops. The king's palace, the church and the property of
the priests had not suffered so much. The houses with their
enclosures are built on several minor hills, with a semi-
circular background of high mountains protecting the town
from the north-cast, east and southeast, and the town faces
and looks over the plateau wc came across, which is backed
by the Gheralta range.
The road taken by the RnglUh expedition runs about
four miles further to the cast, and at that time Macalle waa
of very little importance, except as a residence of the priests;
the two important towns in the vicinity were Chelicut and
Antalo, both of which are now places of only second-rate
importance, and are not one-third of their former size.
On the highest portion of the lai^est of the hills in the
centre of the town, the late King Johannes built his palace.
""he architect was an Italian named Nareti, for many years
idcnt in the country, helped by Schimpcr, who was
travelling with me, and a staff of skilful masons and
^^arpcnters, and when new the building must have done great
^■bvdlt to the designers. It is far and away the best building
^B have seen in the country, and not at all ugly, being built of
^^clt cut limestone blocks well pointed with cement. A large
^porch leads into a long room or hall, which takes up the
whole width of the building, and its length is quite one
hundred and fifty feet ; the flat roof is supported by a row of
^"he
^^c
800
MODERN ABYSSINIA
pillars down the whole length, the two side parts being about
half the width of the main part, and the entire breadth being
about sixty feet, the height is about twenty-five fecL The
ceiling is boarded with wania planks, and the lai^e windows
with their shutters and the door^ arc also made of the same
material. At the end of this hall is the throne on a raised
platform, and tM'o flights of well made wanza wood steps
lead to an upper set ol apartments, which again open out to
the roof, and the four turrets at the comers of the building
also make four rooms. At the back of the throne there arc
a set of apartments, where tlie Has receives in private and
transacts the whole of his business of state ; Utese open out
on to a well kept lawn with many shady trees, and some
good orange, lime, peach and myrtle bushes, and there is
also a nicely built summer-house where private guests arc
received, and where the mid-day meal is generally partaken
with his favourite followers. After the meal is over, seats
arc placed under an immense tamarind tree, from which a
good view is obtained of the protecting mountains to the east
and the churches with their large church-grove, with its many
enormous sycamore fig trees ; in this cool place the Ra8, when
business is over, will sit and talk, and here 1 had many
interviews with him.
To the right of the main building arc the private apart-
mcnts. and where he and his wife live there arc two separate
houses joined by a covered bridge; in the upper stories the
Ras and his wife live, and in the lower are the attendants,
kitchens and store-houses. Access is had from the main
garden through the stables, which are continued as other
servants' rooms and store-houses. There is another private
garden which is used by Kas Mangcsha's wife and her
companions, but I did not go into it ; this garden leads to
another adjoining enclosure, where Kas Mangcsha's mother
lives.
The Ras's wife is very pretty, and very fair for an
Abyssinian, and the little 1 saw of her 1 liked very much.
Etiquette prevented me from going to her house, but she
always used to nod and wave her hand when she saw mc
either in the palace grounds, or when she passed mc on her
way to church. Her aunt, Queen Taiton, is very dark and
stout, but she takes more after her father Ras Woly, who is
a very big man. She is very tall for an Abyssinian and of s
very graceful figure, and whenever 1 .saw her beautifully
dressed and with very good taste. She has the reputation of
ri
i
I
MACALLE
801
being very clever, and there can be no doubt that the
women of the upper classes of the country are veiy much
cleverer than the men, and therefore capable of a very high
state of civilisation.
All that 1 have seen of the upper female class in
Abyssinia, and I have seen my share, makes me certain
that, as soon as the country is a little more opened up,
they will play a most important part in the politics of the
country, and that they will make themselves be listened to
by the men, who dare not treat them as a Moslem, Turk or
Pasha would do his wife, and they have always the appeal
to the chureh, which the poor Mahomcdan woman has not
Her quarrels with her lord and master generally end in
bein^; summarily divorced, or being put in a sack and thrown
into the nearest pond, river or sea. I rather fancy the Turk
has sometimes the best of the Englishman, and 1 know
several married men who wish that they and their partners
belonged to the Mahomedan faith, and that they lived near
some convenient sheet of water.
The palace at Macalle, when it was first built, served as
a strong fortitication, but is now obsolete, and as the king
possessol a great number of Remington rifles, his enemy,
armed with obsolete rifles of high trajectory and short range,
could occup)' no height which could command the position ;
the nearest heights are from lOOO to 1400 yards, and modem
rifles could now command every part of the palace and en-
closure. The place is surrounded by a high wall, loop-holed
for musketry, and the irre^lar area of ground enclosed is a
good many acres in extent, the wall being at least three
quarters of a mile round, strongly defended in several places,
and at the gate by guard-houses. There is an inner wall
round the palace about eight hundred yards round, also
strongly defended, and the palace forms part of a third line
of defence which has also strong walls round the private
apartments, stables, and store-houses. From the castellated
roof and turrets, and all round, fire can also be kept up.
Tbere is a very good unfailing spring of water in the garden,
and a small stream nms within fifty yards of the main gate,
so when the place is victualled with plenty of provisions it
could stand a long siege, but the place would be perfectly
untenable against a couple of machine guns placed in the
church-grove, or on the neighbouring hills to the cast.
The meeting with the Kas took place the next day. and
he made Lcdg Mcrtcha, Schimper and I remain to breakfast
302 MODERN ABYSSINIA
The conversation was general, and he asked all sorts of
questions about England, the navy, army, form of government
justice and everything else, and how it was that the two
Parliamentary parties never fought one against the oAa.
The Ras cannot pronounce the English letter " r " and makei
it an " 1," so he was always saying Losebely for Rosebeiy,
and Salisbely for Salisbury, and he could not make out vlqr
Losebely did notiight Salisbely when the former was defeated
at the polls, and the followers of one did not fight against
the followers of the other all over the kingdom.
I explained to him that we did in olden days, and that
many years ago one party defeated the other, betiause the
king, who sided with one party, did not rule wisely, and it
ended up by the king having his head cut off, and the petqtle
doing without a king for a short time, and having govern-
ment by Parliament ; but we had to return to a monarchy, as
it was ^e best form of government and the most honest ooe^
as when we had a king or queen they were the supreme headb
and insisted on the country being ruled by those chosen by
the people in a just and proper manner, and if they did not
do so, they could be removed from power, and the people
chose other officials to make the laws.
I made a sly hit at his form of government, and asked
why it was that Ras Sebat had rebelled against him, and he
replied, because he was a bad man and would not govern
properly, and Jlt-treated his subjects, and only a few of the
people were on his side, and wished to have Hagos Taferi as
ruler, and that everyone was helping the latter against the
former. I told him that the majority in England decided
the question always, and if Ras Sebat was an Englishman
he would give way without fighting, and he said it would be
a good thing if Abyssinians would do the same, but they
would not, so they had to settle their quarrels by fighting.
i had interviews generally twice a day with the Ras, and
he always led up to the subject, why it was that the English
Government did not help Abyssinia after they had made a
treaty with his father, who was their great friend, and had
died fighting against the Dervishes who were also fighting
against England, and that his father had done everything
the English had asked. He asked me who it was that had
allowed the Italians to come to Massowah, and had behaved
so badly to the Abyssinians, whether it was done by Salisbely
or Losebely. I then had to explain to him again how these
matters were supposed by the public to be settled, and who
MACALLE
308
were in power, and brouRht out Whitaker's Almanac to show
him who fonncd the Government at the time, and that it
mitst have been decided by the majority of those people
sitting in council, and then Her Majesty the Queen had given
her sanction, seeing it was the wish of her .tdvisers. The
almanac pointed to Mr Gladstone being in power at the time,
so I told him it was neitlier of the Ministers he mentioned,
and tlut since that time many of the most powerful people
had changed their way of thinking, and things were done by
that Ministry which made many of the Englt<ih people very
angr>-, and had been the cause of ruin and death to thousand^
of innocent people who wanted to be friends of England.
He asked why we did not avenge Gordon's death at the
time, and many other questions which put me into a very
awkward position ; and he ended up by saying that he thought
there must be in England just as many people as bad as
Ras Sebat, who was only trying to get power in hts hands,
and did not mind what means he used to gain his ends. I
do not think that many people have been " heckled " by an
intelligent native and asked to explain the foreign policy of
iSSo to 1885. As far as Abyssinia is concerned it was not
an honest one, and seemed very Jesuitical, doing harm tliat
good may come from it in the end. One cannot forget that
one is an Englishman, and no matter what shade of politics
one belongs to, to try and explain away the fact of making
use of a country to do our fighting, and then pitching them
away like a woni-out shoe after they had done everything
they were asked to, is a very hard job. 1 felt " right down
mean " over it, as an American would say, and 1 wish that
some one who had been responsible for the policy had been
there to have answered the questions put me.
The Ras gave several large feasts while I was there, all
of which I attended, and they did not differ from the one
described at ,\bbi-AddL Holy Cross Day, at the end of our
month of September, was well worth seeing, as Ras Sebat
bad been defeated by that time, and had given in his sub-
mission and been pardoned, and all the troops that could be
spared came to the muster. Holy Cross Day falls at the
slackest time of the year, just before the principal harvest
becomes ripe, when everyone can leave their fields and come
and pay their respects to the Ras. Rifles that have been
served out by the Kas are then examined, and cartridges
counted, and if any rifle is in bad repair, it is exchanged for
another ; this docs not mean that the countryman has not
804
MODERN ABYSSIXIA
another weapon and more cartridge<i hLs own private pro-
perty, as many of them have two or three besides, with which
they can arm their sons and servants who arc not forced to
carrj' arms for the Ras. It is vcr>' hard to say at a pinch
what number of men are capable of bearing arms in
Abyssinia, and what number could be put into the Reld,
as there is no census kept, and the number of rifles borne
by the lighting men \% no guide. There is no hut tax, and
the King's or Ras's tenth of the produce grown gives no idea.
There am be no doubt, however, that the country carries a
much larger population than most travellers give it, as the
most populous districts arc a long way off the main roads.
I was told by Lcdg Mcrtcha and Schimpcr that, during
Holy Cross week, over 30,000 fighting men visited Sfacalle,
and 1 should think that on the great parade day some
8000 to 9000 people mustered durin|; the afternoon and
morning, and over 7000 men were fed at the palace in one
day, or at the rate of about eight hundred an hour. The
Ui^ room being completely full on many occaston-t, and
the second enclosure as well, considerably over a hundred
cows were slaughtered, and all the common tedj and native
beer was consumed, and I should not like to say how many
women were engaged in making bread and brewjnc;, days
before the feast look place.
It was a grand sight seeing the Ras and all the official*
of Tign^, minor rases down to choums and chicas going to
church, all dre&scd in their best, with clean national ahamtnu
and bright silks and satins on, many of them with lion mane
collars. All of the leadinj^ men had their silver shields
carried before them, and the gold mounted swords, and
silver and silver gilt armlets made a glittering procession,
and a dazzling show of colour. I went to the church-grove,
but did not go inside the church, and the scene would have
been worthy of any artist's brush. The old grey stone church,
the enormous sycamore fig, and other fine trees, the rosea,
jasmine and other flowers in full bloom, with the gay uniforms
of tlie soldiers and leading men, and the really clean white
dresses of the women and girls, also laden with jewellery.
1 had quite a crowd round me, and 1 also had my bait
clothes on, and my miniature medals which they all wanted
to see, so I was obliged to take them oflf and hand them
round ; many of the men bowing, and putting the medal
with the bust of Her Majesty on to their foreheads. They
asked me what they were for, and I told tlicm for ftghl '
<
4
MACATXE
305
against the Dervislies, then those that had wounds began to
show them, and one said Kufit, another Metenimah,andtK>on.
They all wanted to know if li^nglish soldiers were paid,
and what tlicy got in pay, and if ihey were properly fed and
clothed, and after I Iiad told them I believe if an Enghsh
recruiting sergeant had been there, he could have engaged
then) all to hj^ht anyu'hcic, and I am certain if Italy was
a richer country and would guarantee the Abyssinians just
laws, that all the countrymen and many of the monks would
all fight for them against any Abyssinian ruler, so little do
they care for them.
I often used to go to the church grove and sit down
under the big treat, a delightfully shady and coo! place, full
of the most beautiful bushes and flowers, with the music of a
waterfall and the soft murmurii^ sound of flowing water,
as two of the irrigation streams flow through it, and after
leaving the enclosure are split up into many minor channels
to irrigate the different large gardens on the mountain sJdt
Their banks are lined with all sorts of ferns, large clumps
of the very large maiden hatr being very common, the purple
and the yellow iris, forget-me-not, ranunculus, and many
other water plants. Dog roses of many sorts and colours,
a sulphur-coloured one being very pretty, also a very large
semi-double pink one more U\ce the oM-fashioned English
rose. Myrtle bushes in full flower, orange trees, limes, and
a few lemon, and other sweet-scented trees made the air
laden with perfume, and the banana and guna-guna plants
gave the scenery an oriental look.
In the middle of a thick and shady shrubbery is situated
a spring of clear water, to which the priests attribute healing
and other properties, and it is a favourite bathing-place for
people who sulTer from various diseases. There is nothing
repulsive about the place, and tt is kept very clean, as the
biuin into which the water flows is simply a hollow tn the
lisaestone rock about six inches deep, and the water is
always changing, and there is not room for more tlian Uiree
people to wash at a time. The place where the water
bubbles out is only about six inches across, and is too
narrow to allow of the water being contaminated. One day
while looking at the well, the Abbi-Addi bridesmaid came
with some other girls, and I sat down and had a long chat
with them, and we were very merry ; the bridesmaid and
another of the girls talked a little Arabic, and I often used
to talk to them afterward^ and 1 spent several pleasant
u
306 MODERN ABYSSINIA
Ai^f moons with them, and they also brought other of dietr
t'ncnd:s to sec the Englishman. I here gave them tea one
lUv. and Huntley and Palmer's sweet biscuits, until Sdumper
And a priest came, and they all ran away. I was told by
the old priest that it was not the correct thing to do to eat
near the holy well. Some few days after I caught the same
pnos: and some of his men drinking tedj at the same place;
*:id the Uugh wiis the other way.
In the lATge round Abyssinian church at the upper end
ot' :*".e ^ive Ras Areya Selassie, King Johannes' son, ii
biiT-vV. ; such i peaceful, quiet spot, where very few people
..v-ro t..\ The number of difTcrcnt sorts of beautiful birfs
A--,.- c-or^wus butterflies that could be seen here would han
ocV.j;h;<\i the heart of any naturalist, and they seemed to
N^-v'w ;: WAS A hA\en of rest where they were never disturbed,
a;^.: »v.-n.' oonsevjuently very tame. There were also many
Tvvx A;;.i tnx- sijujrrels that used to play about the roof of
th,- vhv.n-h. And climb up and down ttie pillars, and I wai
:^c\v[ f.!\\i of wAtching their gambols. The ficus trees with
:hv-t: !V[V iniit were visited hy hundreds of the large green
a;-,.; yv'^ow pigjevMis, that get so fat and are such good table
S!iv's.An.i in the evening constant flocks of other wild pi^ooi
wv'tv ^vnstAntly passing over our garden on their way to
i\v\«; ;ii :hc i;n''ve.
NoAr'.>- i.'vfr>- house at Macalle has a lai^e garden with
a; ;;;;;.;A!ii*» v-h.iiinel to it, and there are several men who
'..v'v o.'.; aiUt the water channels and keep them in repair,
,i',; .iN.> ;-,nn on the water to the gardens when they require
»>.;;.-. ./j; , thf small channels are blocked by sods of turf,
.!■;.• !V.,-y only ri>iuirc taking out to let the water into the
^j!vu-:v lL-i\' the small boys are just as mischievous as
tSo\ .itv in ,in\' other countrj-, and they have great games
\i-.:>. iho wAtermon. breaking down the water channels so as
t,> ;■.I^c tlu-nt cxcrA work, and I saw several of them caught
Aitv't A '.onj; chase and smacked ; one sought refuge in my
i.»nv.', .iiul on it coming to my ears what the young rascal
^..ul .U>;jo. 1 i;.uc him up to receive his well-deserved beating.
The whole of the walls round the enclosures are built
,■! io;'.4ih stones ; they are all of very old limestone forma-
i:.-:! .\ whole morning could be spent looking at the
.;:!-.o;!* shells, corals and fossilized under sea life of whidi
jhc\ ,uv i,\'unx\sc».i. This country at some remote period
ivt;*; hA\r had either the sea over it or have been pushed up
tu-i-.i i: , It the former the lower country and the v^leysmust
MACAT.T,E
307
L
have been at such a depth that coral life could not exist, and
it was only on the shallow mountain i>eaks that it existed.
I used to talk to the Ras about the womlvrful formation of
Macallc and told him it must have been under the sea, at
whicli he was not surprised, and he said he did not sec why
mountains should not grow the same as trees. He has many
curious ideas about the stones growing (as nearly all Abys-
sinians have) as he had often seen them in places where
they were not before, and he got out of explaining why no
one ever saw ihcm grow by saying that it was only on very
dark nights that they did so. He knows nothing about
erosion of the soil by a^e and its washing away accounting
for a fine crop of fresh stones after every ploughing, and hie
also believes that the world is flat. I assured him that
Englishmen had been all over it with the exception of the
north and south poles and had never tumbled over its
edge, and he rather scored off mc by saj'ing that tliosc were
perhaps the places where we should fall off. With all his
ignorance of many things he is remarkably shrewd and very
well informed on minor points, and if he had seen things
when he was young and been properly educated, he might
have been a clever man, but he is perhaps too old to learn ;
he believes in things like Pharaoh's chariot-wheels, dragons
and oUl biblical impossibilities, but not in X-rays, wireless
tel^raphy, and other of the close of the nineteenth-centuiy
miracles.
He knew nothing about the history of his country, and
had a hazy sort of idea that Abyssinia had been a very lai^e
nation at one time, and that the people of Abj-ssinia had
conquered a great part of the world ; evidently they were
greater and cleverer than they were at the present, and their
Ignorance of the outside world was mostly owing to the Turlc.
He firmly believed that the rutns at Axum were built by
giants and that they were nearly as tall as the monoliths found
there, and that the door cut out of the rock on the side of
tlie mountain above the sacred grove, led to a piissagc that
went to Jerusalem, and not the one about two miles further
on, that is at the bottom of the tomb, which is a much
smaller one. He did not believe, however, that anyoiw
could claim their descent from the Queen of Sheba, as he
doubted whether she was Queen of Abyssinia, and there is
a great deal of jealousy between the north and south on this
subject.
1 asked pcnnissioo one day to leave Macallc and go
308 AIODERN ABYSSINIA
ocxth, as I wanted to get across the frontier now die latm
were nearly over and «Tite all the information I had gathered
about the country and send it to England, and then to viat
the southern part of the country and King Mendek. To
this I got a short refusal and a^ed whether I was not coo-
tented with Macalle and my treatment Of course I could
not say I was not^ but I pleaded I was out of stores, dotho^
and other things, and unless I could be allowed to send
letters, my friends in England would get anxious, and that
time although it seemed of little value to the Abysainiani^
was considered as money in England. I was told I ahoold
have to wait until he could hear from King Menddc, who
had written him and expressed a wish to see me. I pmnted
out it would be quicker for me to go back to Massoirah and
take a steamer from there to the Somali coast, than going
by land, and the shortest road was not safe owing to the
Azebus and Danakils, and also that it was difficult to fonl
the big rivers at this time of year. " Wait," was the answer, " I
will cail a meeting of the other head-men of my Government^
and see what they have to say."
Here was another sign of weakness on his part, not having
enough firmness of character to settle a little question like
this without asking what minor officials had to say, I used
to hear a great deal what passed from my friend the priest,
that was King Johannes' father confessor, and had also acted
for Ras Mangesha, but I suppose he did not give him enoi^
absolution, and he had been superseded by a man I did
not care so much about The dwarf also used to tell me
things, and I knew everything I did or said in his presence was
told the Ras. I used also to get information of what the
Ras did as well from him, and by employing other means
I knew the Ras's movements, and what he did, just as well
as he did mine.
I found out that his great wish was to get me to go to
England, and extol his virtues and say what a (it person he
was to succeed his father, but as I did not think him a
capable man, it was the last thing I should do. He would
have given me anything if I could get him recognised by the
English Government A time may come when England may
have something to say in Abyssinia, and unless the Ras was
backed up by a force under English or Italian officers, he
would be but a broken reed to lean on.
One day I was invited to come and see him administer
justice, which he does once a week, so I went and had five
MACALLE
309
hours "in court," which was held in the open air, till a perfect
deluge of rain came on and stampeded judge, accusers and
accused, witnesses and spectators, I never was so thankful
in all my life for a shower of rain, as I was getting tired of
the proceedings, of which I understood very little except
what Schimper translated for me. I was sitting in a chair
aloi^lde the Ras who was reclining on a high sofa, well
supported by cushions, and a man held a large red silk
umbrella over him, and Schimper was sitting behind me. I
wanted to bet with him that one side told more lies than the
other, but he said it was impossible to tell who told the most,
and it did not always depend on thcnumbcr of witnesses, and
that they all told the same talc that made the case go in
their favour, and he asked me to pay attention to a claim
about a stolen mule. The real owner had only one witness,
and the man who had it in his possession brought many
witnesses to prove that he had had it for years, whereas it
had been with him for only a month, and he had bought it
from someone who had bought it from another who had
stolen it The mule seemed to know its original owner.
Next justice day in spite of tlie hard swearing, this case
would take another phase, as the man who had tost the case
said he would take one against the thief, and when the thief
was brought into court he would most likely swear that he
bad bought it from the original owner, and would bring a
witness or two to prove it. Cases like this take up a long
time, and afl'airs of State and more important work are
shelved for trifles like these.
I heard another case about moving land marks : one man
accusing another of cultivating his land, and it was proved
they were both in the wrong, as one had cultivated a field
that did not belong to him two years before, and wanted to
do so again. It wa.s ordered that the land in dispute should
be divided — a regular Solomon's baby verdict — with no dis-
sentient party in this case. There was one murder case in
which the man pleaded guilty, and provocation and blood
money was accepted and the money paid up at once, other-
wise be would have been handed over to the relatives of the
deceased to be killed with the same sort of weapon with
which the deed was perpetrated. A tlieft case combined
with highway robbery ot^ht to have ended with mutilation,
but I will say this for the Ras he is not cruel, so he only
ordered the man a beating and to be sent away from the
neighbourhood, and to start a new life in a new country.
810 MODERN ABYSSINIA
Mutilation has not the terroTs that it would have in England,
as some of the thieves in Abyssinia have been operated on
a second and a third time, and I saw one man with his left
foot being the only extremity left, and be was being fed by
the priests at the church at Adowa.
There are no jails in Abyssinia, except for political
offences, and these offenders are confined in the State prisons
or ambas. It is nearly impossible to escape from these places^
and the guardians of them as a rule are eunuchs, a custom
the survival of which must have dated from the most andent
times. The men, or rather the parents of these children, have
the operation performed when they are very young, as they
are provided for for life by the chief officials of the kingdom,
and the eunuchs can also keep their parents out of what they
receive should they become poor. These ambas are veiy
interesting places ; some of them have a single dangerous goat
path leading to their summits and are blocked at the topi
others are scarped and reached by a rope which is let down
from the top of the plateau. Water is found on the top, and
cattle in large numbers are kept, and cultivation on the larger
ones is carried on to a great extent, so the inhabitants are
independent of stores from below.
Ras Waldenkel and Fituari Debbub, who I mentioned
before, murdered their guardians on one of these ambas and
escaped, the former gave himself up and was afterwards kept
at Abbi-Addi where I saw him. The latter managed to get
together some of his father's (Ras Areya) followers and gave
Ras Alouta a good deal of trouble before he and his adherents
were shot down and killed.
The mode of justice is very patriarchal and mosaic, and ot
course can be seen administered at present as perhaps it
existed in the earliest semi-civilised times, when courts of law
were first held. The men as a rule are fine speakers and
very eloquent, and while speaking they do a great deal of
gesticulating with their arms, and their facial movements are
very often grotesque ; they are generally laughed at if they
lose their tempers, The womenkind are not a bit behind
the men in talking, and also manage to hold their own very
well, I get very tired of these shows, and particularly the
airs that some of them give themselves, as I hate side of all
sorts either in a native or in a European, but I think perhaps
side in an educated European is more disgusting than in a
native. The legal profession is at a discount in Abyssinia, as
every man is his own lawyer. Justice is summary, and there
MACALI.E
311
is a certain amount of Jedburgh law about it tKat I like, such
a difference from the Baboo and Hindu mode of doing
Men are wanted in Abyssinia to rule the country, and
spelt mind with the largest capital M, and whatever nation
that gets hold of the country, ought to send out broad-backed,
sport-loving, good-all-round gentlemen to rule the place, and
not small undersized spccimcnsof humanity, jointed together
with red tape knowing only the desk and the law, and trying
to rule the country by threats and not by deeds. A violent
bad-tcmpcrcd man would come to grief at once; but ! have
met sevtrral of the class of men required, with their nice
quiet manner and the light velvet hand, with the unmistak-
able feel of the claws under the soft covering, that If th^r
once touch a native'^ hand they have only to say a thing is
to be done, and it is as good as fmLihed.
After this court meeting, I was asked to come to the
Ras's private apartment in his garden, and 1 found him alone
with Lcdg T^fertcha, and 1 was told that he had received a
letter from King Mcndck saying that he wanted to sec me
and that I was to be sent to Adcsc-Ababa as quickly as
possible. The Ras then began to commence his grievances
Over a^in and asked me to go back to Erithrea. and then to
xindon to let the Govcmmait know how witling he would
be to do anything they asked him, and how sorry he was that
be had ever quarrelled with tlie Italians and how much he
would like to be friendly with them. I had but one answer
to give him, and that was what he asked was impossible,
and that my business was not politics, and that I was sent to
make enquiries, and report fully on Abyssinia for one of the
largest newspapers in England ; that I still did not under-
and that peace had been made, and if so, what the terms
if peace were, as before war broke out that Italy had the
anagcment of Abyssinia's foreign affairs. I asked to be
allowul to go away to the north as a telegram had arrived
for me to return, and he knew that it was useless my writing
sending letters, as they were not allowed to pass. I told
im I was out of all stores, clothes, etc., and had only enough
oney to last me back to Adowa, and all my things [ re-
uu'cd were at Massowah. He told mc to give nim an
answer early next morning by Ledg Mertcha. That evening
ic priest came to see mc and informed me that he did not
link the Kas could allow mc to go north, as if he let mc go
away, and I did not see King Mcnclck after all, lie would be
S12 MODERN ABYSSINIA
very angry and be would thJnk the Ras was intngaiDg
against him, which no doubt he was and would give anytUag
now to be under Italian protection, as if Tigitf "wnhinflf
with the Italians, Menelek would be in a serious pontiaii and
perhaps others might also rebel against him.
I did not see how I could get away north without pnmii-
ing things I could not do, and I was unwilling to tdl a lie
even to regain my freedom, so accordingly next monunf I
told Ledg Mertcha to tell the Ras as far as I was concenwd
he might send me an)rwhere he pleased, as I was entirely in
his hands, and to thank him for what he had done for m^
and to beg that I might send to Adowa for my things I had
there, and also to write to Lieut Mulazzant to say what had
taken place, so that he might telegraph to England what had
become of me and where I was likely to reach the sea.
Next morning I was called to a meeting at the Ras^t
private apartments in his garden, and on entering I found
him together with Ras Aloula, Ras Hagos of Tembiei^ the
Choum Agamie,and Hagos Taferi, Nebrid Welda Gorgis; King
Menelek's agent, and my friend the chief priest of the district^
Welda Mariam, father confessor to the late King JohaonOt
and the moment I entered I knew that they had made up
their minds what they were going to do, and as Schimper
was not invited, Ledj Mertcha did the interpreter and he was
already seated in the circle. I must say they did the business
in the nicest manner possible ; wc first had tedg passed round,
and then a very good breakfast was brought in, and when tiie
servants had gone out of the room King Menelek's letter
was produced, and the seat showed me, and 1 was told the
contents. It was to call me to Adese-Ababa to be present
to see how the prisoners were treated.
I quote from my notes the following, 4/10/96: "'Told the
assembly again that I wanted to go north, and was ordered
to do so, and that I was run out of all stores and only bad a
little quinine and other medicines insufficient for my wants;
that I knew Abyssinia so well, that I could not get away
without permission ; and therefore, however disagreeable to
me, I had to do what they told me and not what I wanted.'
The reply was, ' that Menelek's orders must be obeyed,' and
that being an Englishman I was wanted as a witness to what
terms Menelek would offer and accept from the Italians.
I told the whole of the Council that they must be witne»
to my words to Ras Mangesha, and I repeated what I have
written before. He replied : ' Go in peace as a fnend, you are
313
the guest of Abyssinia, leave tcMnorrow morning.' I asked
if tliis was final, and the answer was, to which the Council
assented, ' Yes ; have no fear, you have been shown cvcry-
thinp in Tigr^, and now sec how the King has treated the
Italian prisoners and what he is going to do.'"
With this I had to be content, and returned to my camp
In no very rif^htcous frame of mind, and soon after Schimper
came buck, who had been sent for by the Council, and he also
was told that he must accompany me to the south and
explain to the king what he had been doing with the Italians
and aiding them in Erithrea; he was very down hearted as
his absence from his wife and children, to whom he was
greatly attached, would be a very long one, and he also had
been looking forward to getting north. We both agreed
that it was impossible to try and make a bolt of it, as instead
of being well treated we should be strictly guarded, so we
bwth made the best of circumstances and began our small
preparations for our departure next day.
Stores we had none worth speaking about, scarcely a
pound of tea, a little si^r, about half a dozen tins of sardines,
a few candles, and a couple of bottles of curry powder, and no
rice, lentils having to take its place, and a very good substitute
when they arc not too old. Soap was reduced to the la.it piece,
and the native "shipti" seed in future would have to be
employed for washing our clothes. Quinine, Cockle's pills,
chlorodyne and carbolic acid, with plenty of lint and
bandages, still remained — without these I never travel — and
with care they might last until I reached Adcsc-Ababa.
There was consternation among the servants when they
heard the news, and one of Schtmper's servants immediately
ran away, and we hereafter hcnrd that he had spread the
report that we had all been put in chain.'« and sent off to
King Menclek. Considering he ran away half an hour after
the news was given that we were to go .south he knew
nothing except that wc had to go to Adesc-Ababa. The
Italian prisoner who I had found in the Macallc bazaar
about a week before and had been fattening up and cleaning
in my camp, had the laugh over us as he was also to leave
the next morning for the north with Ras Aloula, so he
would be home in Italy long before I got to the scacoast.
He was not half a bad fellow, and was delighted when 1
came across him, and I believe was veT>' grateful for all I did
for him, as when he left he cried like a child. He belonged
to the seventh Battalion BersagUeri, and was taken prisoner
312 MODERN ABYSSINIA
very angry and he would think ^e Ras was intngiUiiE
against him, which no doubt he was and would give anytUng
now to be under Italian protection, as if Tigr6 cacniniied
with the Italians, Menelek would be in a serious positiao ind
perhaps others might also rebel against him.
I did not see how I could get away north without promis-
ing things I could not do, and I was unwilling to tttl a Ue
even to r^ain my freedom, so accordingly next nujnang I
told Ledg Mertcha to tell the Ras as far as I was concerned
he might send me anywhere he pleased, as I was entirdy in
his hands, and to thank him for what he had done for me^
and to beg that I might send to Adowa for my things I had
there, and also to write to Lieut Mulazzan! to say what had
taken place, so that he might telegraph to England what had
become of me and where I was likely to reach the sea.
Next morning I was called to a meeting at the Raafs
private apartments in his garden, and on entering I found
him together with Ras Aloula, Ras Hagos of Tembien, tbe
Choum Agamie,and Hagos Taferi, Nebrid Welda Gorgis, King
Menelek's agent, and my friend the chief priest of the district,
Welda Mariam, father confessor to the late King Jcdunne^
and the moment I entered I knew that they had made up
their minds what they were going to do, and as Schimper
was not invited, Ledj Mertcha did the interpreter and he was
already seated in the circle. I must say they did the business
in the nicest manner possible ; wc first had tedg passed round,
and then a very good breakfast was brought in, and when the
servants had gone out of the room King Menelek's letter
was produced, and the seal showed me, and I was told the
contents. It was to call me to Adese- Ababa to be present
to see how the prisoners were treated.
I quote from my notes the following, 4/10/96 : " ' Told tile
assembly again that I wanted to go north, and was ordered
to do so, and that I was run out of all stores and only had a
little quinine and other medicines insufficient for my wants;
that I knew Abyssinia so well, that I could not get away
without permission ; and therefore, however disagreeable to
me, I had to do what they told me and not what I wanted.'
The reply was, ' that Menelek's orders must be obeyed,' and
that being an Englishman I was wanted as a witness to what
terms Menelek would offer and accept from the Italians.
I told the whole of the Council that they must be witness
to my words to Ras Mangesha, and I repeated what I have
written before. He replied : ' Go in peace as a friend, you are
313
the guest of Abyssinia, leave to-mofrow morning.' I asked
if this was final, and the answer was, to which the Council
assented, 'Yes; have no fear, you have been shown every-
thing in TJgr^. and now see how the King has treated the
Italian pHsoners and what he is going to do.'"
With tliis I had to be content, and returned to my camp
in no very righteous frame of mind, and soon after Schimper
came back, who had been sent for by the Council, and he also
wsis told th.it he must accompany me to the south and
explain to the king what he had been doing with the Italians
and aiding them in Erithrca ; he was ver^" down-hearted as
bis absence from his wife and children, to whom he was
greatly attached, would be a very long one, and he also had
been looking forward to getting north. We both agreed
that it was impossible to try and make a bolt of it, as instead
of being well treated we should be strictly guarded, so we
both made the btrst of circtinutanoes and began our small
preparations for our departure next day.
Stores we had none worth speaking about, scarcely a
pound of tea, a little sugar, about half a dozen tin.s of sardines,
a few candles, and a couple of bottles of curry powder, and no
rice, lentils having to take its place, and a very good substitute
when they arc not too old. Soap was reduced to the last piece,
and the native " shipti " seed in future would have to be
employed for washing our clothes. Quinine, Cockle's pills,
chlorodync and carbolic acid, with plenty of lint and
bandages, still remained — without these 1 never travel — and
with care they might last until I reached Adese-Ababa.
There was consternation among the servants when they
heard tlie news, and one of Schimper's servants immediately
ran away, and we hereafter heard that he had spread the
report that we had all been put in chains and sent off to
King Mcnelek. Considering he ran away half an hour after
the news was given that we were to go south he knew
nothing except that we had to go to Adese-Ababa. The
Italian prisoner who 1 had found in the Macallc bazaar
about a week before and had been fattening up and cleaning
in my camp, had the laugh over us as he was also to leave
the next morning for the north with Ras Aloula, so he
would be home in Italy long before I got to the sea-coast.
He was not half a bad fellow, and was delighted when I
came across him, and 1 believe was very grateful for all I did
for him, as when he left he cried like a child. He belonged
to the seventh Battalion BcrsagUeri, and was taken prisoner
8U MODERN ABYSSINIA
at Raio aft«r General Boratieri na sway; he had • wpem
wound In hia ankle, and a bullet in hla diouhler irtiidt llffl
remained, and the wound would not heaL Itwaslnahofiftle
state whoi I first saw him, but after a wedc^ dreasiiig ft gat
better, but would nevo' get well untilthe bullet was reraoffedt
if he had been a native I would have taken It out, bnt'I do
not like doing my unskilled butcher's woric on a Eurapon.
The man's name was Benedetto Bistuini, a' peasant^ aad :ln
came from near Pisa, and I promised if I ever went thoe I
would call and see liim. He was always talking about Ui
mother, and he was quite childish in his pntde and dd^^
at the chance of seeing his home again. I gave him all the
clothes I could spare and sent him on his way rejoidiq^ wilk
a present of some lira notes and some Abyssinian jcmtSiafi
including a ulver gilt cross for liis mother to whom he aeenwA
devoted.
I might have made a small fortune out of paper moneys
as &.e natives offered sometimes a hundred lira note lor a
dollar, but I do not believe that money got in this way doa
one any good, and all the paper mon^ I got, I gave to tte
poor prisoners returning to Eoithrea, who were very pleated
to receive it I managed to buy several medals and " croeaBa
for valour," besides o£er little things, and sent them acnm
the borders to my friend Mulazzani who returned them when
possible, to the mmilies of the officers that had been Idlkd,
who greatly appreciated the little kindness. I am sony to
say that the French in the south behaved disgracefully,
buying Italian officers' hats and uniforms and dressing thar
servants in them, and I saw one servant belonging to a
Frenchman who also sported Italian medals that he bad
purchased. This was a needless and gratuitous insult to a
brave nation, and pained me greatly ; it could do no good,
and only lowered Europeans in the eyes of the natives, but
this the French do not mind, and the familiarity of some of
them with the natives is nothing less than indecent and
deplorable.
The next morning I went to say good-bye to Ras Aloula,
who was just starting ; he Immediately told me that he was
the only one that wished me to be allowed to get my thingt
from Adowa before being sent south, and he hoped that I
would visit him again, which I promised to do if^I hul the
opportunity. I little thought, when he gripped my hand at
p8^ii%, that it was the last time I should see him, and that
the hero of so many battle-fields would lose his life over a
MACAIXE
315
try land squabble. Curiously, the next person I said
od-bye to was the other principal in the dispute, Ras
agos of Tembicn, who was also killed on the same
occasion. I then went to take my leave of Ras Mangesha,
and I informed him that I was far from contented with his
behaviour, and when he asked me to let the English know
how fond he was of them, I told him I should tell the trutli.
This Kaa belongs to the jelly-fish order, with no backbone.
I have no doubt he could be moulded into anything, and if
backed up by a European power, would do evcryUiing he
was told, and perhaps, therefore, might be a better puppet
to run than a stronger-minded man; there can be no doubt
about his parentage, as he is exactly like his father. His
mother, who is a venerable, good-looking old lady, was a sadly
gay lot after the king got tired of her, as she has two other
sons and a daughter by three different husbands, all of them
big men En the country. One of the half-brothers of the Ras
called upon me every day and was a great nuisance ; he does
t bear the best of characters, and has been on an amba on
cral occasions.
The head of our ^uard or escort to Adcse-Ababa has the
adc of chief candlc-bcarcr to the Ras, an honorary title ;
is a great courtier, supposed to be a brave fighting man,
tremendous dandy, and smells like the perfumery shop in
Bond Street, and I now never pass this place without think*
ing of him, but as he bonsts and talks too much I do not
like him. I was sorry to part with my friend the priest,
who had been most kind, and a few days before parting,
when in the churchyard with some other priests, he pre-
sented me with the cross that he always wore round his
k, and it proved most useful to me on many occasions,
asked him to inform the Ras of the loss of my miniature
medals, that had been stolen, as I thought by a soldier,
and some months afterwards they arrived in London, all
broken, but it only shews that priests have their use,
and that there is a certain amount of law and honesty
in the country.
COJI
m
CHAPTER XIV
SOCOTA AND WAAG PROVINCE
AFTER the events described in my last chapter. I got
away for my long journey to Shoa about noon, many of
my friends, among them being the dwaif, seeing me oat of
the town ; this custom of accompanying people when they Kt
out on a journey is just as common in Abyssinia as in atiter
parts of the East. At first we struck due south to join Ae
main southern road of eastern Abyssinia, that leads vw the
Amba-Alagi pass to Ashchangi and then to Dildi and Embac
to Yejju.part of which was followed by the English expeditiao
to Magdala. It was on Monday the 5th of October that I
left Macalle, and it was not till Wednesday the 181J1 of
November that I eventually arrived at Adese-Ababa, being
forty-five days on the road including stoppages, a journey
that I ought to have accomplished easily in eighteen. I
should have enjoyed the voyage immensely had I been
better prepared, but I was without many absolute necessities
required when travelling in a country of this description, and
I shall now have to dip into my diary very frequently to let
my readers have full particulars of all that I went through.
Instead of Ras Mangesha doing me a really bad turn by
sending me the way he did and putting me under the chai^
of his favourite candle-bearer, the dandy Hailou, and bis
escort of soldiers, I am now most thankful to him for giving
me the opportunity of seeing so much of the country under
circumstances which will seldom fall to the lot of few
travellers, and to gain a further knowledge of the people and
the way they are treated by soldiers travelling on business
of the State.
About an hour after leaving the town I was met by some
mounted soldiers coming from the south, who would not
allow me to proceed and stopped the part of my escort that
were with me ; soon after Hailou arrived with the rest of the
escort and Hadgi-AIi, who had remained behind to procure
provisions from the market, and to my delight he had been
31E
SOCOTA AND WAAG PROVINCE 317
able to procure some more wax matches of Italian make and
one very small piece of toilet soap which perhaps weighed
about 3 ounces. After a long confabulation between Hailou
and the head of the soldiers, we were told tliat the Azebu
Gallas were raidinj; n^ar Amba-Alagi and Aschangt, and the
road was not safe. Hailou and the soldiers that we had met
returned to Macalle, and we were sent by a road that led to
the south-souch'West
The country was lovely and the road led down the
centre of a lai^e grass valley with many small rills all
running into a main broolt, which ran towards tlie Ghiva
river ; the crops of barley on the higher parts of the hills
were ripe and being cut, while on the lower slopes the fields
of grain were changing colour, and on the lowest of all the
com was in full ear and of a vivid briKht green. In the
valley round the streams the ground was clothed with a
luxurious carpet of good grass, in which large flocks of sheepj,
goats, horses and mules and many young horned cattle were
grazing, but very few cows and bullocks. The young stock
had nearly all been purchased in the I>anakil country (and
were of the long horned si>ccies) and that had not suffered
nearly so much from tlic rinderpest as the high land». The
only disease now amongst the animals in the Macalle district
seemed to be among the mules, curiously enough the fathers
and mothers of this cross not suffering nearly so much,
although the cross is supposed to be the more hardy.
The road we followed after about eight miles out from
Macalle commences to rise gradually, and runs along the
spurs of the mountains vis'A-vis to the range on which the
towns of Chclicut and Antalo are situated. An excellent
view of the now nearly ruined town of Chelicut is obtained,
with its groups of abandoned houses in all stages of decay,
and the broken-down walled enclosures with their m;ignilicent
trees of all sorts, and its very large sycamore figs for wliich
the town was famed. The population now only consists of
a few hundreds, whereas, from the number of the buildings
the lai^e area which it covers, it must have sheiterol
pulation of several thousands. Most of the people have
[left Chelicut for Macalle and its surrounding villages.
Antalo is also nearly deserte<l by its inhabitants, they having
left it for the villages on the east and west when the Italians
advanced in 1895, and then again when the army of King
Menddc advanced on Adowa. I am told that as soon as
the present crop is gathered many of the people will return
rf^
CHAPTER XIV
SOCOTA AND WAAG PROVINCE
A FTER the events described in my last chapter, I got
'*'' away Tor my long joumey to Shoa about noon, many of
my friends, among them being the dwarf, seeing me ont of
the town ; this custom of accompanying peojilc when they act
out on a journey is just as common in Abyssinia hs in other
pATts of the East. At first wc struck due south to join the
main southern road of eastern Abyssinia, that leads via the
Amba-Alagi pass to Ashchangi and then to Dildi and Kmbac
to Ycjju, part of which was followed by the English expedition
to Magdala. It was on Monday the 5th of October that I
left Macalle, and it was not till Wednesday the iSth of
November that I eventually arrived at Adcse-Ababa, b<^ng
forty-five days on the road including stoppages, a joumey
that I ought to have accomplished easily in eighteen. I
should have enjoyed the voy^c immensely had 1 been
better prepared, but I was without many absolute neces-iitlet
required when travelling in a country of this description, and
1 ^all now have to dip into my diary very frequently to let
my readers have full particulars of all that I went through.
Instead of Ra-t Mangesha doing me a really bad turn by
sending me the way he did and putting me under the charge
of his favourite candle-bearer, the dandy Mailou, and his
escort of soldiers, I am now most thimkful to him for giving
me the opportunity of seeing so much of the country under
circumstances which will seldom fall to the lot of few
travellers, and to gain a further knowledge of the people and
the way they arc treated by soldiers travelling on busirKia
of the State.
About an hour after leaving the town I was met by some
mounted soldiers coming from the south, who wouhl not
allow me to proceed and stopped the part of my escort that
were with me ; soon after Kailou arrived with the rest of the
escort and Hadgi-Ali, who had remained behind to procure
provisions from the market, and to my delight he had been
SOCOTA AND WAAG PROVINCE 319
I had a long tallc to the old choum who was very angry
ith Kailoii and his escort, as they had been helping them-
selves to everything they wanted, and I explained to him
t it was nothing to do with me what the Abyssinian
soldiers did. What I and my servants including Mr
Schimpcr, required should be paid for or an equivalent
given, and that I was very sorry for him and bis people,
that they had to put up with these exactions. I got from
him the same information as I had heard before from many
others, that there was no ending to their taxation. It was not
the anmial tax in the shape of tribute that they complained
of, but it was the everlasting feeding officials and their escorts
who were not content with what tbcy were supposed to have
given them, but took what they liked. It was, of course, at the
present moment more difficult to satisfy tlicsc demands, as
during the past year theyhad been looted by the Italian soldiery
and on two occasions by tlic troops belonging to King Mcnclck
on their journey to and from Adowa. Consequently they had
but small supplies of everything until their growing crops
were ripe, which although very good were smaller in area
than formerly, owing to the death of so many of their plough-
ing bullocks not enabling them to put a large acre^e under
cultivation, and much of the tilling had also to be done by
hand.
The road from Adi>Ki-KoIf<^ runs at first up hill for about
four miles in a soutli-south-west direction, when a ridge is
reached which gives a splendid view over the basin of the
Samra river which this ridge divides from the waters of the
Ghiva that are now left behind. From the top of the ridge
is strttched out the whole panorama of mountains, com-
mencing with those above Antalo, next the high peaks of
Amba-Alagi with its out-jutting western spur that divides
the drainage of the Samra and Tserrare rivers, then fading
ftway in the distance the far-otf blue mountains of Lasta and
Waag to the south and the southern part of the Semien
ouDtains to the west. It was a beautifully clear day, and
al local thunderstorms could be seen coming up from
south, obliterating for a short time a part of the landscape
nd making other portions, on which the sun was shining,
1ght in comparison to the dark shadows thrown by the
lack clouds and their downpour of heavy tropical rain.
The country was most fertile and covered with crops being
harvested, and the road ran between 6elds of barley in which
ie were working.
320 MODERN ABYSSINIA
Two hours before reaching Samre, a large goige t^ one
of the tributaries of the Samra river is come b^ one of the
top of the sides is followed, which is covered witii tiuck
mimosa and other scrubs. This gorge is a favourite place
for robbers and malcontents against Ras Mangesha's ntk.
All malcontents, as I mentioned before, take to plimderiiq^
so as to bring the ruler of the province into disrepute wiUi
his subjects ; a peculiar sort of revenge, on the basis of, " You
do me harm, I know I cannot retaliate ; but I will go and do
harm to someone else, who rsmy be a friend of yours " ; it is
bad for the man who is retaliated on.
The escort that is with me consists of twenty-two men
and Hailou ; all armed with rifles, swords and shields, here
closed up, and two men were sent on as an advantxd goanL
We proceeded into the scrul^ when all at once a rifle-shot
was fired, and everyone began to shout and give instnictioiis.
As soon as things commenced to quiet down and the escort
made inquiries into what had happened, it was found that
one of them had let his rifle off by accident Hailou knocked
him about with a stick and abused him and told him to be
more careful in the future, and we resumed our march. What
with the rifle-shot and the shouting re-echoing among the
rocks, the only things that were scared were the monkeys
who also began shouting and hurrying off up the cliffs, and
a small herd of oribi antelopes would have given me a
good shot had I had a rifle with me. I asked Hailou if he
was afraid of the monkeys, and he rather scored off me with
his reply which was, No, he was not afraid of monkeys, but
they were also wicked thieves that lived by stealing like the
bad men he had to guard me against
About the last six miles march into Samre is, next to the
view from Abi-Addi, the most lovely part of Tigr^ that I have
yet seen, embracing as it does the grand panorama of heights
and small mountains of every shape ; the flat-topped Ambas
being most numerous, and Uie grey white of the limestone
rocks interspersed with the red sandstone, partly covered
with a strange vegetation, in which giant sycamore figs
predominate, makes up a charming picture, and a civilisatioa
is given to the scene by numerous villages surrounded by
cultivation of all sorts, including tropical, sub-tropical and
cold country plants. On turning round and looking up the
goi^e just before Samre village is reached, the picture is a
red sandstone foreground, covered with a luxurious vegeta-
tion ; a very deep depression with castellated red sides vnth
SOCOTA AND WAAG PROVINCE 319
Kth<
^thc
4
I had a long talk to the old choum who was very angry
:h 1-Iailou and his ciicort, as they had been helping tlicm-
selvcs to everything they wanted, and I explained to him
that it was nothing to do with me what the Abyssinian
soldiers did. What 1 and my servants, including Mr
Schimper, required should be paid for or an equivalent
given, and that I wa^ very sorry Tor him and his people,
that they had to put up with tlics<: exactions. I got Trom
' im the same inrormation as I had heard before from many
' ,ers, that there was no ending to their taxation. It was not
the annual tax in the shape of tribute that they complained
of. but it was the everlasting feeding officials and their escorts
who were not content with what thc>' were supposed to have
given them, but took what they liked. It was, of course, at the
present moment more difficult to satisfy these demands, as
during the past year they had been looted by the Italian soldiery
,nd OR two occasions by the troops belonging to King Menelek
'on their journey to and from Adowa. Consequently they had
but sm.ill .supplies of everything until their growing crops
were ripe, which although very good were .tmaller in area
than formerly, owing to tlie death of so many of their plough-
ing bullocks not enabling tlien) to put a large acreage under
cultivation, and much of the tilling had also to be done by
hand.
The road from AdUKi-KoIft^ runs at first up hill for about
four miles in a south -south- west direction, when a ridge is
reached which gives a splendid view over the basin of the
Samra river which this ridge divides from the waters of the
biva tliat arc now left bdhind. From the top of tlie ridge
is stretched out the whole panorama of mountains, com-
mencing with those above Antalo, next the high peaks of
Amba-Alagi with its out-jutting western spur that divides
the drainage of tlie Samra and Ti^crrarc rivers, then fading
away in the distance the far-off blue mountains of Lasta and
Waag to the south and the southern part of the Semien
mountains to the west It was a beautifully clear day, and
several local thunderstorms could be seen coming up from
the south, obliterating for a short time a part of the landscape
nd making other portions, on whidi Uie sun was shining,
right in comparison to the <lark shadows thrown by tlic
black clouds and their downpour of heavy tropical rain.
The country was most fertile and covered with crops being
harvested, and the road ran between fields of barley in whidi
people were workii^.
320 MODERN ABYSSINIA
Two hours before reaching Samre, a large gOfge of one
of the tributaries of the Satnra river is come to, one of the
top of the sides is followed, which is covered witk tludc
mimosa and other scrubs. This gorge is a favourite place
for robbers and malcontents against Ras Mangesha's rule:
All malcontents, as I mentioned before, take to plundering,
so as to bring the ruler of the province into disrepute with
his subjects; a peculiar sort of revenge, on the basis of, "Yoa
do me harm, I know I cannot retaliate ; but I will go and do
harm to someone else, who may be a friend of yours " ; it is
bad for the man who is retaliated on.
The escort that is with me consists of twenty-two men
and Hailou ; all armed with rifles, swords and shields, here
closed up, and two men were sent on as an advanced giuud.
We proceeded into the scrubs when all at once a rifle-shot
was nred, and everyone began to shout and give instructioos.
As soon as things commenced to quiet down and the escort
made inquiries into what had happened, it was found that
one of them had let his rifle off by accident Hailou knocked
him about with a stick and abused him and told him to be
more careful in the future, and we resumed our march. What
with the rifle-shot and the shouting re-echoing among the
rocks, the only things that were scared were the monkesn
who also began shouting and hurrying off up the cliflTs, and
a small herd of orJbi antelopes would have given me a
good shot had I had a rifle with me. I asked Hailou if he
was afraid of the monkeys, and he rather scored off me with
his reply which was. No, he was not afraid of monkeys, but
they were also wicked thieves that lived by stealing like the
bad men he had to guard me against
About the last six miles march into Samre is, next to the
view from Abi-Addi, the most lovely part of Tigrd that I have
yet seen, embracing as it does the grand panorama of heights
and small mountains of every shape ; the flat-topped Ambas
being most numerous, and the grey white of the limestone
rocks interspersed with the red sandstone, partly covered
with a strange vegetation, in which giant sycamore figs
predominate, makes up a charming picture, and a civilisation
is given to the scene by numerous villages surrounded by
cultivation of all sorts, including tropical, sub-tropical and
cold country plants. On turning round and looking up the
gorge just before Samre village is reached, the picture is a
red sandstone foreground, covered with a luxurious vegeta-
tion ; a very deep depression with castellated red sides with
SOCOTA AXD WAAG PRO^aXCE 321
rblte quartz seams, and capped with trees in full foliage,
' and a background of a height of wood, field and pasture-
land, down which streams arc miming and plunging in water-
falls into the gorge below.
The market town of Samre is built on a tableland pro-
jection from the mountain, and has steep sides round it, with
the exception from the north, where it joins the main road ;
at its further extremity are the immense ruins of old Kas
Hailou's palace. He was father to the late Ras Hagai of
Tcmbicn, and was related to all the best blood of Tigrd and
Amhara. Part of the walla of the main palace arc still
standing, as well as the surrounding wall, which contained
the lesser buildings; the area enclosed must have been at
least sixteen acres, defended from the market by a deep
ditch and high wall, with a strong gateway with overhanging
guard house ; the whole enclosure being absolutely im-
pregnable, except through starvation, to any force except
armed with artillery, which the Abyssinians in former days
did not possess.
The market green is about five hundred yards long by
about two hundred yards wide, and is surrounded by the
houses and compounds of the inhabitants. Samre in olden
days being one of the most important central positions of
Abyssinia: doing a very large wholesale trade for all the
commodities produced by and imported to the country. Its
glory hast departed, and Socota has taken its place, and it is
now reduced to a Saturday market instead of a daily one.
What with the mounds of rubbish that arc now covered with
a plant vegetation, and the traces of old ruins that form the
foundation of the present dwelling houses ; this place may
have a history which excavations alone would bring to light.
It is a most fertile centre, blessed by nature with a good
climate, a splendid soil and a never failing water supply, and
from the facilities it offers for defence, its ruins and size, it
must have played » most important part in the annals of
ancient and fiu'rly modern Abyssinia.
W'e encamped among the ruins of Kas Hailou's palace,
which with the exception of the late King Johannes' palace
Macalle, where Kas Mangcsha now lives is the Caigcst
building that I have as yet seen in the country. Our escort
Lcitcamps all round us, so near as Co be quite offensive, and
^ there is no doubt that, although not actually prisoners, we
arc as near tliat state as possible; or jwrhaps putting it in
onotlicr form, we are free people who cannot do what we like,
X.
322 MODERN ABYSSINIA
as we are perpetually watched, and not allowed to speak to
the natives, except in the presence of one or more soldien
It is a blessing that Schimper and Hadji-Ali talk English as
we can speak together without being understood and we
may get a chance of getting some news away north, despite
of Ras Mangesha and his advisers ; and if I could only get
into communication with Ras Aloula, all would be well and
I might through him be able to get my supplies at Adowa
forwarded on to me.
We had a fine and cold night, but at daylight it
commenced to rain with distant Sunder, and kept on tOI
about seven o'clock, when the sun came out, and we
commenced to dry things, the tent always having to be
beaten and shaken to get the water out of it, so as to diy
it quickly. I try to get out of Hailou where we are to
camp next, but he will never give any of us information,
and up till now the soldiers who form the guard are noC
unfriendly, but are not communicative and are already
getting into a country they know little about Hailoa
seems to know every village, and the conntrymen to be
more or less frightened of him.
The road all the way from Samre towards the sontii-
west which we followed, was through cultivated land and
the sides of the hills were also thickly covered with crt^
of maize; many villages, small and laige, were to be seen,
and they showed no signs of having been looted, and whai
we arrived, after a twelve mile march, at Temessesa, our
halting place, 1 was told that this district had escaped,
owing to its being so far from the high roads, the terrible
destruction caused by the Italian irregular troops, and
also by Mcnclek's army, both on its way north and south
The army from Godjam and the Amharans did not come
nearer than Fenaroa. With the exception of having suflTered
from the cattle disease, the people were the best off of all
the places that I had hitherto seen ; the fields shewed that
they had a great deal of attention paid to them, and they
were free from weeds and the dividing ridges were well kept
The crops consisted of maize, dhurra, wheat, barley, on the
higher lands, dagusa, tef, noug, peas, beans, lentils, gram, and
round the villages a little tobacco ; potatoes, tomatoes,
pumpkins, gourds, bananas, besides other useful things were
in profusion ; everything was absurdly cheap and for one piece
of salt and a dollar I got several chickens, some eggs, milk,
any vegetables I liked to take, and a very fat, cut goat
I
SOCOTA iVND WAAG PROVINCE 82S
My keeper and his soldiers immediately commenced
having quarrels with the choum or chief of the diittrtct,
who absolutely refused to obe>' the orders of Ras Mangesha,
as he said he was under the orders of the Waap Choum Gangul
of Waag. Wc poor prisoners had our food in peace, and as I
saw some of the escort had had nothing all day, and that
they were hungry, I told them they might feed with my
Abyssinians; among them was the chief petty officer; filling
his stomach for him and giving him » small bit of American
stick tobacco, entirely won him over, and from tliat night
he began to get quite friendly, and moat useful he proved on
many occasions after leaving Socota. liaitou got nothing
for himself that night, and at dawn wc started from the
village, or more properly speaking, district of Temcsscsa, for
a long march, but where our destination was to be, no one
had the vaguest notion ; but it v!AS somewhere there, as
Hailou said, |»tnting in, as nearly as possible, a south-south-
west direction.
The road after half an hour's march leads into thick bush
and about »ev'en miles out a small stream is reached called
the Maj-Ambessa, which is followed for about five miles ; at
the point where the stream is struck, there is a good view of
Fenaroa, situated on high land some six miles to the west
The main road, from Adowa and Axum to the south, runs
through Abbi-Addi and Fenaroa to Socota ; about eight
miles further on the Samra river is come to. which has to be
forded, and another six miles further on, the Tserrare is
reached that has also to be crossed. These fords are also on
the high road and at the crossing of the Samra, Fenaroa
bears due north and the road to Socota goes due south.
The further bank of the Tserrare was reached after seven
hours good marching, nearly all the way down bill; after
entering the bush in Uie morning, not a vestige of civilisation
Of cultivation is met, with the exception of a distant view of
Fenaroa ; the country is all covered with scrub and mimosa
i'ungic, and is supposed to be during the rains most unhealthy,
ilcphant, lion, Kudoo and Defassa are then common, having
been driven out of the Tacazxe valley by the floods. 1
saw nothing m rtMte, except a few small Uuiker and Oribi
antelopes.
These two rivers are very pretty and their breadth aboutone
hundred and one hundred and thirty >'ards respectively; during
Uie rainy season they carry an immense volume of water to the
[lain stream of the Tacazze. The banks are not steep and
824 MODERN ABYSSINIA
the beds of the rivers arc of small water-worn stones, not it
all unlike our northern rivers, such as the North Tyne. On
leaving the Tserrare we followed a road that went on towanb
the south-west for about six miles, and then followed wet-
south-west for about another e^fat miles, w^hea we s^ihted
some houses and cultivation. From near Temessesa to
Deera is ten hours good marching without any sigii ct
cultivation except immediately around Fenaroa, v^ucfa wis
at least six miles off. We arrived at Deera at six p.in. iftcr
eleven hours quick marching over a good road, not having
met half a dozen people during the whole day. As sooo ai
we arrived a thunder and rain storm came on, and as my test
had not come up I had to go into a house for shelter; it left
off raining at about eight o'clock, and still the tent and part
of the baggage had not arrived. We got plenty of mOk, and
eggs, and chickens by payment, and ha!d a decent supper
which we alt badly wanted after our fatiguing day's maich,
it being very hot near the river and tn the thick bush as we
got no breeze. The bugs and fleas were aomethti^ awful at
this place, and neither Schimper nor I could sleep as we woe
perfectly devoured by them ; so at about midnight we bodi
turned out and sat over a fire in the courtyard and took off our
things and bug-hunted ; we managed to rid ourselves of them
and made a large bag ; the fleas, although to me they are
the more troublesome, did not so much matter, as they went
off of their own accord hopping back to the house.
1 shall long remember the night spent at Deera for its
discomforts and other reasons ; one of them being the row I
had with three of my Somali servants who had stayed behind
and loitered on the road with the baggage ; they had de-
termined to desert and try to get back to the north, as they
did not like to face the journey south. They also feared the
soldier escort and the daily rows between them and the
villagers ; and they no doubt considered the thick country
we had just passed through was a sample of the rest df
the road and was a good place to hide in. I could not
blame them altogether, and there was a good deal of truth,
however unpalatable it was to me, in what they said, namely,
that we were all prisoners, and one the worst charactered
said, yes, and all prisoners are equal. This 1 could not
allow, and he found out that I could still maintain order.
The three Somalis were called by Hailou and were told that
if they loitered again they would be chained and beaten, and
they were afterwards better in this respect, but they gave
SOCOTA AND WAAG PROVINCE 325
tndless trouble in other things, and Hadji AU had no
ammand over them until our troubles ended at Adcsc-
Lbabo.
We were not sorry to leave Dccia on account of our
eing Ko uncomfortable, but the people were very kind and
the women very curious ; some of them had never seen a
European before. Their houses were of the ordinary
Abyssinian round shape, and the villages only slightly
protected with thorn hedges, showing thai the country was
a ptaccfut one and that the hedge was only to keep out
hyenas and jackals. Our road from Deera v/as up-hill and
in a south-easterly direction, and about six miles out we
passed the pretty settlements of Agou Nusta ; we then went
ap a very bad pass which took us nearly an hour, and struck
the direct road to Socota, which wc had diverged from at the
crossing of the Tserrare ; the deviation had taken just seven
hours marching, and the object was to get rations for our
escort, which they had not succeeded in procuring.
Wc now struck the fertile district of Kulusheman and
turned off the high road to the principal village which we
reached at about 1.30 p.m., after having marched only five
and a quarter hours. This vilLigc was about one and a half
miles from the high road, and was very nicely situated, bcinR
in the centre of a large area of cultivated land ; witJi the usual
miscellaneous crops in all stages of maturity, the maize already
harvested. The whole population were at work in the fields,
and many of them left their work to sec the strangers — here
a white man was not such a curiosity, as they had seen a good
many Italian officers and soldiers pristincrs of the different
chiefs that had taken this road on the return from Adowa.
I soon got my tent pitched and enjoyed a quiet afternoon
until sunset, when quarrels took place ; they commenced with
a fight between two of my Abyssinian servants, one a Tigrrfan,
the other from Amhara. the two countrymen hate each other
and they evidently wanted to see which was the better man.
Schimpcr wanted to separate them but I told him to sit
down and watch, as there would never be peace between
them until the question was settled. The fight took place
some fi(^ yards off, so they did not disturb me, and they
were a great deal too intent to sec whether anybody was
watching them ; the row lasted about ten minutes, and by the
time they had fini.shed they had ** nodings on " all their clothes
in bits. Feet, hands, nails and teeth had all been used, and
they were a pretty sight After they had recovered their breath
CHAPTER XIV
SOCOTA AND WAAG PROVINCE
AFTER the events described in my last chapter, I got
away for my long joumey to Shoa about noon, many of
my friends, among them being the dwarf, seeing me oat of
the town ; this custom of accompanying people when thc^ set
out on a joumey is just as common in Abyssinia as in other
parts of the East. At first we struck due south to join tibe
main southern road of eastern Abyssinia, that leads via tfae
Amba-Alagi pass to Ashchangi and then to Dildi and Embac
to Yejju, part of which was followed by the English cxpeditiaB
to Magdala. ft was on Monday the 5th of October that I
left Macalle, and it was not till Wednesday the i8th of
November that I eventually arrived at Adese>Ababa, being
forty-five days on the road including stoppages, a journey
that I oi^ht to have accomplished easily in eighteen. I
should have enjoyed the voyage immensely bad I been
better prepared, but I was without many absolute necessttiea
required when travelling in a country of this description, and
I shall now have to dip into my diary very frequently to let
my readers have full particulars of all that I went through.
Instead of Ras Mangesha doing me a really bad turn by
sending me the way he did and putting me under the charge
of his favourite candle-bearer, the dandy Haitou, and ms
escort of soldiers, I am now most thankful to him for givii^
me the opportunity of seeing so much of the country under
circumstances which will seldom fall to the lot of few
travellers, and to gain a further knowledge of the people and
the way they are treated by soldiers travelling on business
of the State.
About an hour after leaving the town I was met by some
mounted soldiers coming from the south, who would not
allow me to proceed and stopped the part of my escort that
were with me ; soon after Hailou arrived with the rest of the
escort and Hadgi-Ali, who had remained behind to procure
provisions from the market, and to my delight he had been
SOCOTA AND WAAG PROVINCE 317
able to procure some more wax matches of Italian make and
one very small piece of toilet soap which perhaps weighed
about 3 ounces. After a long confabulation betu'een Hailou
and the head of the soldiers, we were told that the Azcbu
Gallas were raiding near Amt>a-Alagi and Aschangi, and the
road was not safe. Kailoit and the soldiers that we had met
returned to Macalle, and we were sent by a road that led to
the south -south- west.
The country was lovely and the road led down the
centre of a lai^c grass valley with many small rills all
running into a main brook, which ran towards the Ghlva
river; the crops of barley on the higher parts of the hills
were ripe and being cut, while on the lower slopes the fields
of grain were changing colour, and on the lowest of all the
com was in full ear and of a vivid bright green. In the
valley round the streams the ground was clothed with a
luxurious carpet of good grass, in which large flocks of shcepj
goats, horses and mules and many young horned cattle were
grazing, but very few cows and bullocks. The young stock
had nearly all been purchased in the Danakil country (and
were of the long horned species) and that had not suffered
nearly so much from the rinderpest as the high lands. The
only disease now amongst the animals in the Macalle district
seemed to be among the mules, curiously enough the fathers
and mothers of this cross not suffering nearly so much,
although the cross is supposed to be the more hardy.
The road we followed after about eight mites out from
Macalle commences to rise gradually, and runs along the
spurs of the mountains vt's-tk-vii to tlie range on which the
towns of Chelicut and AnCalo arc situated. An excellent
vi«w of the now nearly ruined town of Chelicut Is obtained,
with its groups of abandoned houses in all stages of decay,
and the broken-down walled enclosures with their magnificent
_^trccs of all sorts, and its very large sycamore figs for which
* "he town was famed. The population now only consists of
few hundreds, whereas, from the number of the buildings
the large area which it covers, it must have sheltered
. population of several thousands. Most of the people have
Chelicut for Macalle and its surrounding villages.
Jo is also nearly deserted by its inhabitants, they having
for tlie vilLiges on the cast and west when the Italians
_^ijced in iSps.and then again when the army of King
neldc advanced on Adowa. I am told that as soon as
the present crop is gathered many of the people will return
CHAPTER XIV
SOCOTA AND WAAG PROVINCE
AFTER the events described in my last cliapter, I got
away for my long jouraey to Shoa about noon, mu^of
my friends, among them being the dwaif, seeing me out at
the town ; this custom of accompanying people when they Kt
out on a journey is just as common in Abyssinia as in atittt
parts of the East. At first we struck due south to join tke
main southern road of eastern Abyssinia, that leads rot the
Amba-AIagi pass to Ashchangi and then to Dildi and Embac
to Vejju,part of which was followed by the English expedJtko
to Magdala. It was on Monday the 5th of October that I
left Macalle, and it was not till Wednesday the iSth cf
November that I eventually arrived at Adese-Ababa, baag
forty-five days on the road including stoppages, a journCT
that I ought to have accomplished easily in ei^tecn. I
should have enjoyed the voyage immensely hiul I bees
better prepared, but I was without many absolute necessities
required when travelling in a country of this description, and
I shall now have to dip into my diary very frequently to let
my readers have full particulars of all that I went through.
Instead of Ras Mangesha doing me a really bad turn by
sending me the way he did and putting me under the charge
of his favourite candle-bearer, the dandy Hailou, and his
escort of soldiers, I am now most thankful to him for giving
me the opportunity of seeing so much of the country under
circumstances which will seldom fall to the lot of few
travellers, and to gain a further knowledge of the people and
the way they are treated by soldiers travelling on business
of the State.
About an hour afler leaving the town I was met by some
mounted soldiers coming from the south, who would not
allow me to proceed and stopped the part of my escort that
were with me ; soon after Hailou arrived with the rest of the
escort and Hadgi-Ali, who had remained behind to procure
provisions from the market, and tn my delight he had been
3iS
SOCOTA AND WAAG PROVINCE 317
able to procure some more wsx matches of Italian make and
one ver>' small piece of toilet soap which perhapsi weighed
about 3 ounces. After a long confabulation between Hailou
and tlie head of the soldier-i, we were told tliat the Azebu
Gallas were raiding near Amba-Alagi and Aschangi, and the
road was not safe. Hailou and the soldiers that we had met
returned to Macallc, and we were sent by a road that led to
the south-soutb'wcst.
The country was lovely and the road led down the
centre of a lai^c grass valley with many small rills all
running into a main brook, which ran towards the Ghiva
river; the crops of barley on the higher parts of the hilts
were ripe and being cut, while on the lower slopes the fields
of grain were changing colour, and on the lowest of all the
com was in full ear and of a vivid bright green. In the
valley round the streams the ground was clothed with a
luxurious carpet of good grass, in which large Hocks of sheep^
goaU, horses and mules and many young horned cattle were
grazing, but very few cows and bullocks. The young stock
had nearly all been purchased in the Danakil country (and
were of the long horned species) and that had not suffered
nearly so much from the rinderpest as the high lands. The
only disease now amongst the animals in the Macallc district
seemed to be among the mules, curiously enough the fathers
and mothers of this cross not suffering nearly so much,
although the cross is supposed to be the more hardy.
The road we followed after about eight miles out from
Macalle commences to rise gradually, and runs along the
spurs of the mountains vis-d-tris to the range on which the
towns of Chelicut and Antalo are situated. An excellent
vi«w of the now nearly ruined town of Chelicut is obtained,
with its groups of abandoned houses in all stages of decay,
and the broken-down walled cncl'jsures with their magnificent
trees of all sorts, and its very large sycamore fi{is for which
the town was famed. The population now only consists of
a few hundreds, whereas, from the number of the buildings
and the la^^e area which it covers, it must have sheltered
a population of several thousands. Most of the people have
left Chelicut for Macallc and its surrounding villages.
Antalo is also nearly deserted by its inhabitants, they having
left it for the villages on the cast and west when the Italians
Ivanced in 1895, and then again when the army of King
lenelek advanced on Adowa. I am told that as soon as
the present crop is gathered many of the people will return
aao MODERN ABYSSrWTA
TIk next monui^ jnst ai I IukI finUted s b^tadM
4e Wiig n>onm sent don askfaig Sdumpo- and I tooHK
■wl see hn and have breakfast wtth him ; <fca^ warfflMMi
had to do, and so I poft on my best dotfacs nad pnoMM
to his boose. Tlie buildiiigs iHaidi lie occapitt contm
immeiwe extent, and ttey and tlie cour^nxds aic IqC
veiy dean and neat; quite a saperior place waA wan
order shown than in any other **«*^**'"hfnffnf diat I Imm
as yet seen in Alqi-ssinia, and a great contrast to tiie 01%
my Ras Mai^esha Ice^ his hcmses and tbeir riiiiiiHiiiilliy
The priadpa] building is one of three stories luf^ of iqwB
sh^ie, km^er than it b broad. It was built about asojnB
ago. and evident^ des^ned by some one who had aenti
under the Portuguese, or who haid travelled in other conrihiK
It was entirdy devoid of architectural beauties the mil
beii^ perfectly plain, and the windows of lattice woih Ift>
that in Mahomedan countries and dosed with oonnM
shutters. The roof was fla^ with a slight protecting panHrT*-
At the same time as this house was built; adjoining to S a
vci>- large ordinal}- Ab>-ssinian round house was omatoKteSt
with ra^er good wood-work ; the shape of the windows aid
doors being like those fouad in the superior houses of Adoaa
that have already been described. The uprights to the roof
that formed a circle, had been closed in and were parthr ned
as stables and paitly as storehouses. The Waag-uiomB
Gangul did not use this as a dwelling-house like many othtf
of the leading men in Aby-ssinia, but only as a waittDg4xxMi
where people remained until they were ushered into hh
presence.
The other tn'o big houses n-ere of the same constructioB
as the latter, but their interiors were differently arranged;
one was empty with the exception of an angareb or native
bedstead, and was used as a justice and meeting room, and
the other had two portions between the outer wall and inner
circle of uprights supporting the high domed roof endosed ;
a raised platform between them, taking up about a third at
tilie area on which were several native bedsteads with cushions
and covers of different coloured silk, and the floor was
covered with Persian and Indian carpets. Silk curtains
covered the three doors, and the walls which were nicdy
plastered were of a light yellow, the usual hooks made oi^
of cow horns were let into the wall, from which hung silver
shields of good workmanship, handsome swords with ^M
and silver decorations, and guns and rifles of many patterns,
SOCOTA AND WAAG PROVINCE 319
I had a long talk to the old choum who was very angry
'with Hailou and his escort, as they had been helpinp tliem-
selves to everything they wanted, and 1 explained to him
thAt it was nothing to do with me what the Abyssinian
soldiers did. What I and my servants, including Mr
Schimpcr, required should be paid for or an equivalent
given, and that I was very sorry for him and his people,
that they had to put up with the»c exactions. I got from
him the same information as i had heard before from many
fithers. that there was no ending to their taxation. It was not
the annual tax in the shape of tribute that they complained
of, but it wa5 the everlasting feeding officials and their escorts
who were not content with what they were supposed to have
given them, but took what they liked. It was, of course, at the
present nwment more difhcult to satisfy these demands, as
during the past year they had been looted by the Italian soldiery
and on two occasions by the troops belonging to KingMenclck
on their journey to and from Adowa. Consequently they had
but small supplies of cvcr>'thing until their growing crops
were ripe, which although verj- good were smaller in area
than formerly, owing to die death of so many of their plough-
ing bullocks not enabling them to put a large acreage under
cultivation, and much of the tilling had also to be done by
hand.
The road from Ad!-Ki-Koir<$ runs at first up hill for about
four miles in a south-south-west direction, when a ridge ia
reached which gives a splendid view over the basin of the
Samra river which this ridge divides from the uatcrs of the
Ghiva that are now left behind. From the top of the ridge
is stretched out the whole panorama of mountains, com-
mencing with those above Antalo, next the high peaks of
Amba-Alagi with its out-jutting western spur that divides
the drainage of the Samra and Tserrare rivers, then fading
away in the distance the far-off blue mountains of Lasta and
Waag to the south and the southern part of the Semien
mountains to the west. It was a beautifully clear day, and
several local thunderstorms could be seen coming up from
the south, obliterating for a .short time a part of the landscape
and making other portions, on which the sun was shining,
bright in comparison to the dark shadows thrown by the
black clouds and their downpour of heavy tropical rain.
The country was most fertile and covered with crops being
harvested, and the road ran between Acids of barley m which
>plc were working.
383 MODERN ABYSSINIA
Hailou protesting that we oi^ht not to have remained the
n^ht at Socota, but the Wa^ Choum insisted that we
should stay and rest and accept of his hospitality. He Imev
very well that I had nothing in return to give him, and yet
he treated me in a most princely manner, and it is not r^fat
of some travellers saying that all Abyssinians are greedy
and grasping, and give an egg so that they may receive a
brood of chickens, or a glass of milk so that they may
receive a herd of cows.
In the afternoon after my return from the Choum, visiton
of all sorts called on me, from them 1 was enabled to ^can
a lot of information about the country ; they all seemed to
like the present ruler, but some r^rets were expressed that aM
Waag Choum Bru, the present Choum's father, was io odle.
King Menelek and he could not agree, and as Gangul bad
lived with King Menelek for many years, he was given bis
father's position, and the old man was sent to Shoa. One of
my visitors was an old slave woman from Darfar, who kaew
Slaten Pasha very well, when he was governor of tbtt
province ; she was taken prisoner by the Mahdi's foUowen
and brought to Khartoum, from there she left with fcef
master for Galabat, and followed him into Abyssinia with
the force under the Emir Abou Angar, and was present at
the battle of Gondar. She was taken prisoner by Ae
Abyssinians belonging to Ras Areya at the battle of
Metemneh where King Johannes was slain, and was present
at the small fight when the king's body was taken, and Rai
Areya was killed. She then found her way across country
to Socota, where she married and was now hving, after
having undergone such terrible experiences, happily in the
town which she hoped never to leave. Her only complaint
was that it was very cold, and she had to wear more clothes
than in the Soudan.
On the Monday morning, the V/aaig Choum again seat
for me at an early hour to have breakfast, and after the m^
was over I said good-bye, thanking him for all his kindness
to me and his princely hospitality ; he was most cordial, and
asked me if I was ever in Abyssinia again to come and pay
him another visit, and that he had given orders that I should be
well treated in his district. On my arrival at camp, I found
more bread and food had been sent down, making four times
that I had received supplies from him, also honey and other
things for my journey.
I had plenty of opportum'ties of having a good look at
'A AC; PK(
fNCF, 333
town. It conutts of over six hundred good sized houses
sides many ttmall ones, none of titem in mins, giving five
■i))U>itants only for cacii house, this would give a population
30001 which is under what it really contains. The
nclosures round the houses were larger than in most towns,
sd the whole place was kept in excellent order, and very
lean ; all dead animals for a wonder were removed out of
town, where they were soon eaten by the dogs, hyenas,
ckals, crows, ravens and vultures of which there were large
luantitics. The houses were all of stone, many of them
luare shaped and well built, and the town wa-t well wooded.
Iiere being many ver>' large sycamore fig trees of several
kinds- Some of the gardens were nicely kept, and produced
plenty of vegetables of many descriptions, and the fruits
consisted of the apricot, peach, grape, banana, lime, orange,
pomegranate of lai^e size, and shadock, thick hedges of the
*' shipti " or soap plant divided the enclosures, and I was very
pleased to be able to purchase a lai>;e bag of its| dried seed
to wash our clothes, as my last piece of European washing
soap was finished.
The market d3>'S at Socota are Tuesday and Wednesday
of cad) week, and by the area of the market place, it must
be visited by many people, ami a Laige trade done, not only
witli local towns, but with those of Lasts, Bcghemeder,
Scmien, Tcrabicn and Enderta. The town po^esscs three
6nc churches, the oldest dedicated to the Virgin Mary,
dating back for several centuries ; the second was built by
the Wasg Choum Bru ; and the third nearly finished by the
present Choum; the last is on a hill about a mile out of
the town, and already plots of ground are being taken up
round it for building purposes.
We got away in a heavy shower of rain on Monday, the
t2th October, at ten o'clock, i give the date as former
travellers talk about the rains finishing in September. Our
escort in a fuddled state and very dirty, not having re-
covered from the eiTects of their two nights' drunk — several
of them have been beaten by liallou. and one of them is
tied to one of Schimpcr's servants ; they both having opcited
fire witJi iJieir rifles at some imaginary enemy during the
night, waking us all up and making tis get out of our warm
tents into the cold to see what was the matter. Hailou
looks no end of a swell this morning with his hair rcplaited
and with fresh grease over it, and by the scent, which women
. a rule only use, he has been where he should not have been.
S34 MODERN ABYSSINIA
We took a n»d leading to the soutli-eu^ ^kk li Ac
direct route to Oildi, uid about three miles out of ihc ton
got OB the edet of the saucer-shaped plateui of SoeaCadhtt
appears as if mother nature had tasen a bite out -of 4b
rim in one pboe so as to allow the drainage of tbe ummBom
springs to escape ; near die bralcen part tbe toini is b^
md from Ae point we are standing on looks quite aahn
r'ti^ place. The big isolated ran^ of Musocdlo en n»
seen, and its volcanic or^ detemtined. Whn 4e
worid was made and these tenible discharges of nntMr
took place it must have been desperately hot wfafle thr
surface was cooling, and till this present day there are acmri
warm springs that have not had time to cool, one of wHA
runs past a perfect giant of a fig tree which must }if ki
tiae be several centuries old. Under the shade of tliii ~
I had my lunch after havii^ marched for about four
from Socota and having done twelve miles. Hailoa
up to me here and turned us off from our due
course to one south-west and halted at a vill^e in the WcU
valley about three miles off the road. The Wdldi
comes fiom the Muscollo range and gradually slopes,
getting wider to the Tserrare river, the direction bdng ^
ao' south, to east ao* north.
Nearly all the villages here have a name, and this >
from where we are encamping there are forty-three gnaft
of houses in sight averaging from twenty to thirty buudinp
so it is impossible to map them all. The whole country hen
is superbly cultivated and irrigated, and the crops are vcqr
fine. While the famine and failure of the crops were goiflg
on in other parts of Abyssinia they had plenty, and not only
sold great quantities of grain but had even a surplus left
when their next crops were ready to harvest There cao
be no doubt that the volcanic soil and plenty of springs to
irrigate with makes this part of Abyssinia so fertile. Tbe
cattle pt^:ue was very bad, and the head man of the village
who was a very well informed person and most civil to me^
told me that I ought to have seen the country before the
cattle pl^[ue as every acre of the ground was then made use
of, and he pointed out to me where the cultivation extended
to. His females had never seen a European before, and I
was examined as If I was a curious animal. I think my red
hair had a great attraction for them, also the whiteness of
my skin ; a pretty little girl about four years old hid bdiind
her tiiibet and took peeps at me, and screamed when I tried
SOCOTA AND WAAG PROVTNXE 335
catch hold of her ; some of my small stock of white sagar
abled me to make friends, and by evening time she was
Bitting on my lap and romping with mc as if we had known
each other (or a long time. We got here everything wc
wanted, and all things are so cheap that a traveller can live
for a very little.
We left early next morning after an excellent breakfast
which we took beside the camp-fire, it being quite cold.
Alas ! both our thermometers arc broken so we cannot find
the temperature, Schimpcr's being broken at Socota; we
again struck south-east, getting on to the main road in about
an hour's time, our last night's deviation being the fault of
Hailou who should have gone to the big village on the road
for his rations and not to the one wc went to, where he and
the escort got nothing. Two of the escort have entirely
taken up their quarters with me and are very useful, helping
to pitch camp and bring wood and water ; it gives my
Somalis less to do, and they h.ive not much work at any
lime. About seven miles further on we got out of the Welldt
valley and began going up over a low spur tliat comes away
from the Mu&collo group, and on passing which we opened
oat another small valley of Ruvarca, where wc halted at a
village to allow our escort and baggage animals to come
The road over the ridge is very bad. being comjmsed of
very sharp volcanic rock, and on the crest of the ridge is
an extinct volcano from which, countless ages ago. Faige
streams of lava have come ; the largest stream of lava is over
three hundred yards in width and most difficult to ride acrosSi
the surface being hard and slippery. The crater seemed to
have had an all round discharge, and what struck mc most
there was absolutely no cone of any sort nearer than MuscoHo
which must have been at least ten miles off in a westerly
direction.
Where we camped at Ruvarca was about fifteen miles
from the Welleh village, and here again we have a difficulty
namet as the dbtrict is so thickly populated, and from my
t twenty-one hamlets arc in sight within a very limited
area, then besides the different hills and brooks all have a
name, and it is impossible to make a map of the country
except on a very large scale. It is much better to go by the
names of the districts, and not by villages ; but the names
of churches are always u'Ofth putting down, and making
luid-marks of as they are so few and far between. It is as
m.
u^^
886 MODERN ABYSSINIA
wdl to know, if one is friendly with the priests^ one an
obtain anything in this country. I have found the name of
the old Itchage Theophilus, who died at Axum this year, i
perfect pass-word with the priests, and Welda Mariam vba
was confessor for some time to King Johannes, Ras Anya
Selassie, and of Ras Mai^esha is also well known to nearly
all the clergy in the north.
I look in my diary and find "day ended with more ^ib
with the villagers and escort," and at Ruvarea I also fwnd
some trouble at first, but it was through the fault of nqr
friend the petty officer, who at my request visited the neared
group of houses to buy some milk and eggs or anything thit
there was for sale. He returned and told me he could get
nothing. I then went with Hadgi Ali to try my luck, and I
also was looked cross at I asked for an explanation and
produced a dollar, and then everything went on all ri^
I was told that the soldier had said that he wanted so many
things for me without payment and if they were not giva
that the Wa^-Choum would beat them and imprison theoL
I had the soldier up and did police magistrate, and there «u
an amusing scene ; at last the soldier got cornered, and de-
clared these Waag people were the bluest liars in Abyssinia,
and if I liked to believe them instead of him, well he did not
think much of me. I took the money I had given him away,
and did my own deal, and found no difficulty in obtaining
what I wanted.
This soldier amused me very much ; the next morning
he brought three women who had food for sale, and after
Schimper had purchased it, the women went away down die
side of the hill, and I soon heard them scream ; on going
down to see what was the matter I found he had taken away
the bar of salt and the pocket handkerchief that th^ had
received for their things they had brought, and they were in
tears. I made him give the stolen things back, and asked
for an explanation. All I got was, " what a fool I was for not
taking things when I could ; that the women were accustomed
to have things stolen from them, and how could a poor
soldier live if he did not plunder .' " After this my soldier
reformed, and was useful in procuring provisions, and never
offered to take money, or salts, or the cloth given to the
women, but he used to make up for it in other ways, which,
however, did not interfere with my getting food brought to
camp.
As Hailou could get no food from the head man they
SOCOTA AND VVAAG PRO^■lXCE 337
both set out in tlie morning ti> liavc the quarrel settled by
the nearest big chief, and I was told that we should not leave
till the next day. Our daily rations for our escort and the
wounded wbo joined us yesterday and are to travel with us
to Yejju are, two sheep, five hundred breads, ten jars of
beer, two pots of honey and ten pots of red pepper chutney,
and extras for me in the shape of chickens. cgRs. milk, and
other small things that I may require. This is an unfair
extra tax on the population, as half a dozen parties may be
going along the same road daily and have to be provided
for; there is a party of wounded just a few hours ahead of
me, and anuther a few hours behind, and the>- will all have
to receive rations, and at Uie same time tlie villagers are
being plundered by the soldiers.
llie day we spent in washing all our clothes with the
sbipti seed, and Schimper went out shooting, but did not
succeed in getting anything but francolin, which are here very
numerous, and wc also saw from our tent, just before sunset,
some oribisantclopcs and a duiker. News arrived this evening
that Fituari Avcte. who lives about four hours march to the
East, had rebelled against the Waag Choum on account of
not being allowed to levy road dues on the market people,
and had blocked the roads. We now muster some seventy
people all told, am) about fifty rifles, so that I do not think
we shall be harmed as we are too strong a party and these
mal'contents do not like fighting and only rob those who do
not dare to retaliate. Our party have been joined by some
wounded and the wife of Ras ManRcsha's instructor of
artillery, on her way back to Shoa. She is a nice middle-
aged woman and comes from the Scmicn province where
Queen Taitou comes from, and she has also a food order
for herself and three servants, and cannot get her supplies
u-ilhout a great deal of trouble. There is also the keeper of
King Menelek's powder m^atine, who had his leg shattered
by a shell at the battle of Adowa and a bullet wound through
the shoulder. The right leg was amputated above the knee
and has healed, but the bullet wound in the shoulder still
suppurates and there is evidently something in the wound to
come away; either bone or a bit of cloth. Another of the
wounded is a merry boy of about sixteen who had his left
leg broken in two places above the ankle ; the lower part of
the leg has been taken off below the knee. The man was
operated on by the natives, the boy by an Italian doctor, and
curiously the graver operation of the two in the man has
V
I
I
338 MODERN ABYSSINIA
healed the quicker. I was greatly amused at die 1:
; mule started along the road and he went hopping a
'. caught it up and got into the saddle leap-frog
! over the tail, a feat which a great many people with t
[ could not do.
i It was warm and fine last night, and the last thn
i have not been a bit warmer than ordinary summer t
in England, and I have not worn my helmet for a. weel
road was due south for about four miles, when it dividi
two, one branch going south-east to Dildi, and the otha
west to Beghemeder, We took the south-west road, s
keep clear of the Fituari Avete's people, which we fa
for about four miles and then turned into a path tt
due south, our Ruvarea guide knowing the road thoroi
here we got into thick bush with many big fig trees and
' j' i which I did not know the name of, and no signs of culti
or houses. I was told that in the rainy season pie
I large game come up from the Tacazze, but return as s
I ( the heavy rains are over.
' .' I On entering the bush we heard shouting and |
calling to each other from the tops of the hills, whid
' supposed to be Avete's men. Hailou was in greal
I f making the caravan keep tc^ether and throwing out fl:
I scouts, and an advance guard which I insisted on goin)
telling him that no one would hurt me, that it was hi
were after. We met no one until we came to the ba
one of the many tributaries of the upper Tserrare.
belt of bush is about six miles across, and widens the I
it gets west I am also told that it stretches down
Tacazze, and that the dividing ridge between th<
drainages is also covered with forest. At the first
ground we met about a hundred of Ras Wolie's soldier
many transport mules on their way to Axum and Adc
bring away the wounded that had been left behind, ar
the arms that the Ras had left behind in store at Ado
having received a targe share of the spoils of war and J
means at the time of taking it back with him. I ren
at the banks of one of the streams for some time, talk
a party of priests who were on their way to Jerusalei
they informed us that the DUdi road was not safe, a
was another rebel that had closed the Dildi- Aschangl
and he mustered over three hundred rifles, so thqr i
make a detour and come round this way. "^
^ I saw here the first gipsy eaca
SOCOTA AND WAAG PROVINCE 839
«
rious people with a red brown complexion, lonf; straight
black hair with regular gipsy features. The Abyssinians
islike them and believe they are capable of doing all sorts
' mischief by magic and other means. They had with them
lot of waterproof grafts baskets and wooden bowls and
platters.'which they manufacture and sell at the markets . . .
they live by catching animaU and they have the reputation of
being great thieves, nclpiriR themselves at night time to the
growing crops ; in habits therefore they resemble the English
gipsies. There are only a few bands of them left in the country,
and I regret that Hailou would not allow mc to enter into
conversation with them ; he pulled out his crucifix from the
inside of his shirt and held it between himself and them until
he got out of their sight. •r
We arrived at Koil district at our camping place after >
having done about twenty-one miles journey, the last four
iles before arriving at Koa, over a bad bit of volcanic road
ith several lava streams. We crossed .leven good-sized
rooks, all running a little north of east, draining towards
the Tscirarc; two of them had a decided taste of sulphur,
and were most nasty, these streams were all before the rise to
Koa is reached. The first buildings on entering the district
from the north, are those belonging to the priests, and on a
small isolated eminence to the east of the road is Koa-Abo
Church, which is supposed to be very ancient. U is in a
good state of preservation, on its top is a ver>' well made iron
cross, nicely ornamented and seven of the points finished up
with the usual ostrich egg. The churchyard is full of lai^
trees and surrounded by a wall and a Timcalli euphorbia
hedge, and from the open green space outside the walls of
the church a good view is obtained of the mountain range
frtmi Amba-Al^i to the mountains round Wandie ; the high
peak of Aboona Jose{>h, and the still higher range of the
whole northern slopes of the southern Lasta mountains.
Koa is very fertile, but here again the rinderi>est killed
the whole of Uie cattle, and tlie chief of tlie village, who
had a long conversation with, told me he had lost nfCy-six
t of hU fifty-seven ploughing oxen, and all his cows in
less than ten days, with llic exception of two or three heifers
and 'vcs. He had a fine big house and formeriy
jwaa . . -do man, but now hr was reduced to penury,
d he and the whole of 1 icl to do their cultiva-
n with the hoc, lo u t^ t,.^,,. ... uyh to keep themselves
m starvation. We coukl get rto milk in this village, and
Wjui
840
MODERN ABYSSINIA
very few supplies, so we made an early start the next
morning as our dcstitiation was uncertain, and we did not
know whether wc should be able to get to Dildi, that was
only twenty miles off. We had during the night one of the
worst thunder and rain storms that I ever remember in any
country, during which inches of rain must have fallen ; it
was soon over, and then the rest of the night and early
morning was beautifully bright and clear. While it tasted
1 had to give refuge to some of the wounded in my tent,
and though of course inconvenient I had not the heart to
refuse them shelter.
The next morning wc followed the direct Dildi road
for about ^vc hours and arrived at the cross roads in the
Walaka district; at this place there is a rather celebrated
church and monastery inhabited by many monks and nuns-
The church, which is called by rather the long name of
Abo Gabni Mumfaz Kudos, is very ancient, and is situated
in a thick grove of enormous fig trees of the sycamore s|>ecies,
and is one of tlic most peaceful and quiet spots imaginable,
and a perfect haven of rest for lai^c numbers of birds of all
sorts, including many of the lovely paradise fly-catchers
with their long white taiK Here wc remained to find out
the news, and what our prospects were of getting oo to
Ditdi.
The priests told us it was unsafe, and confirmed that the
road to Dildi was held by a chief who had rehelled, ant) he had
at least three hundred men with him ; this was a dilfcreiU man
to Avctc, who I mentioned before, and his gricvancas were
the same, as he bad had his market dues abolished, and
had been put under the Yejju government instead of that
at Socota, and he objected to the change, and was stopping
anyone who wanted to proceed to Yejju. What with this
man and Avcte and the Aiiebu Gallas on the warpath, this
part of the country ih in a disturbed state. Schimper tells
me there is nothing to be alarmed about, .is he knows the
man. and he is a very good fellow, and would not dream
of hurting a European. I believe this to be a fact, and my
experience of Abyssinia is that as long as one docs not slcJe
with one party or another, that the place is not dangeroui,
but only slightly inconvenient to a peaceable traveller like
myself. I nhould think however, that for an irascible anil
bad tempered man. there h no place in the world when
he could more easily come to grief, as the Abyssinians are
very trying people to get on with, and arc only too pleated
«
(
m
SOCOTA AND WAAG PROVINCE 341
ihcn they can make anyone lose their tempers ; and I know
jf several travellers who have come to grief in the country,
^thc late General Gordon and his secretary being among the
number.
As it was impossible to go forward by the Dildi road,
re changed our course from south-east to south-west, and
an struck the upper stream of the Tscrrare river, up which
re marched for about a couple of miles ; the river here
nins a little to the east of north-east, and then makes a
bend to the north-west It was fairly full of water, but was
rapidly diminishing in height, and was full of tre^, some of
lai^ siie that had been uprooted by the night's storm.
The rise and fall of the river here must be most rapid,
owing to its large and precipitous drainage, and during the
rainy season it is impassable for days together. We then
bad to go up the side of a cultivate terraced ridge, which
f estimated to be, here at least, a thousand feet above the
open valley in which wc had been travelling, and for some
distance before we had seen a curious and very brown
triani^ular mark on the face of the ridge on which there
was no cultivation ; on getting closer we found it to be an
immense landslip, started by the last night's rain. The
mass of earth detached from the top was about twenty yards
acros-Y, and was over tliree hundred yards in width at the
lower part. The slip had increased in breadth the lower
it went, and had carried away all the terraces it had met
with in its descent, and thousands upon tliousands of tons
of earth had been displaced. The climb up this ridge was
very slow and trj-ing, owing lo the muddy soil, and we were
not sorry to get to the top and find ourselves on open
rdowns.
CHAPTER XV
LASTA PROVINCE
"IXJE had met no one during the morning's mareh, aod os
* * the top we came across a number of counttymeo with
their flocks and produce bound for Socota market * &ey
eagerly demanded of us if the road was safe, as they had
also heard of the revolt of the official near Dildi. We told
them that Avete was also supposed to be closing the road,
the other side of Koa, but they said they did not mind him
as he was a friend of theirs, and th^ went on ; we must have
passed many hundreds of people after this, before we licished
our day's march, all with cattle and produce for Socota ; they
altogether must have had several ^ousand sheep and goats
for sale, showing what a traffic there must be at this market
when ail the roads are taken into consideration, we saw only
what were going along one of many. The majority of the
people went on, but some who did not know Avete, returned,
and from one of them I purchased five good fat sheep of the
small breed for a dollar. This would give us something to
eat for a day or two, and make us independent of supplies
from the peasantry, as our order for food was for the Dildi
road and not for the one by which we were travelling. The
order for my personal supplies was in general terms and
good for any place in the Waag choum Ganguls' govemorate.
On reaching the top of the downs we stopped for a rest
after the climb from the low country, and to take our mid-
day repast, which on this occasion was native bread, hard
boiled eggs and onions, such strong ones that they brought
the tears to my eyes. There was a bitter cold wind blowing,
making sitting in the sun behind the lee of a big juniper tree
most pleasant ; the scenery and vegetation had entirely
changed, and we were surrounded by Junipers, ericas and
other moorland plants, and the rocks were all lichen and
moss-covered, and long festoons of orcheJla or "old man's
beard " moss hanging from the branches of the trees— Hare-
bells, bilberries, giant thistles, nearly worthy to be called
3t»
LASTA PROVINCE
343
ees, showed that we bad come into higher regions than
re had hitherto travelled over, and the short moor grass
ntcrminglcd with stag's horn moss I had never seen before
Abyssinia. The scenery was lovely, and the panorama
' the mountains round Socota with the Muscollo group very
DC. No cultivation on tJie ouwrlands except barley, which
ill only grow in the more sheltered depressions, and where
He undulating heights arc broken by canyons. A three
hours' march across this open country led to a pass with
higher land on the eastern side, and on the west deep
prectptccs, a fall to more open grass land which gradually
falls away in cultivatcxl slopes to the direct road from Socota
to Latibcla.
This place is called the Lazema pass, and after following
it for about half an hour we turned olf sharp to the cast,
through a sort of rift in the hills, and reached the Teracha
valley which is of an irregular star-shaped form, the fifth
point tending towards the east, and giving a confmed view
of the lower mountains round Dildi, which from our great
altitude we look down on. The Teracha district is (airly
well populated, but nothing like the one we have been
passing through from Socota, and we are now in the Lasta
province which bcfjan after we had climbed the ridge on to
the moorlands. At Teracha the ericas grww to a great size,
some of them being fully sixty feet in height, and they make
most ornamental trees, and look as if they had been clipped
and pruned by some giant gardener. They were not in full
Uossom, the lower p-irts only coming into bloom, and the
beea were bu.sy gathering honey. In Kngland bees are sent
to the moors to make plenty of honey of a good quality, and
here the natives are also well aware that their moors are the
best place to obtain honey from, and not only do they keep
a lot of hives in their houses, but they put them in sheltered
places in the canyons out of the reach of the ratels, and they
gather and sell lai^c quantities every year. I got a jar of
perfectly white honey here that was delicious, and we spent
the evening in clarifying nnd bottling it, as our sugar was
nearly expended, a few ounces of tea unhappily only remained,
and our candles were only sufficient to last for a few days
longer.
1 made a visit after we had pitched our camp to a very
pretty ndghbouring village to sec the people and to try and
get some supplies. The women and children ran away into
their houses when 1 got near them, as they had never seen
344 MODERN ABYSSINIA
a white man berore, as this district is far away fiom dw
ordinary high roads in Abyssinia. In a. short tiine th^
ventured out and I was soon an object of curiosity, and ws
surrounded by some thirty of them. They were voy dir^
and I should think that they never washed except in Uk
hottest of weather ; I certainly could excuse them, as I
found it bitterly cold. I mana^d to get from them aome
milk and chickens with the usual e^s, and a rice sack fiiU
of potatoes, for which I paid one piece of salt and two
coloured cotton pocket handkerchiefs. All the women bad
a turn at fastening them round their heads, and next
morning I could have purchased the whole of the Thity
they had to spare for these handkerchiefs, th^ were ■>
greatly admired.
I never remember feeling so cold as I did that nig^t and
I only took my boots off and had to put another flannd
shirt on, an extra tweed coat, an ulster and two blanket*
and a rug, and then 1 was not warm enough and my teeth
chattered with the cold. My SomaJis and the T^t^an
Abyssinians were miserable and made a fire big enoi^h to
roast an ox with, over which they sat On looking out of
my tent in the morning just as it was getting daylight
everything was white with hoar frost and a thin coating of
ice on a puddle; the weather was misty and very chilly,
and there was not a movement among the Abyssinians who
lay huddled up together with their feet nearly in the emben
of the large fire. It soon came on to sleet and everyone was
miserable, at about nine o'clock the sun broke through the
clouds and put some warmth into us, and the tent soon
thawed from its board-like state and dried.
One of my transport mules, that looked quite well when
I started from Koa the morning before, had during the
afternoon developed symptoms of the prevalent horse sick-
ness and had been left behind at a house about five miles
back. I sent off Hadgi AH at daylight to see how it was,
and he returned with its hoof and part of its fetlock ; it had
died before sunset and had been nearly entirety eaten by
hyenas and other animals during one night. This mule to
look at was the strongest of all and in the best condition,
and in a few hours it was dead ; here was another instance
of the vagaries of this disease, picking out the best and
strongest animal and leaving those in poorer condition.
There seems to be no remedy for it, and not more than five
per cent of those attacked ever recover.
T.ASTA rRovrxcE
345
Round Teracha I came across the first specimens of the
Kousso tree. It grows something like a horsc-chrstnut and
has a large gnarled and uneven trunk of a good length.
The wood from this tree makes good timber for building
purposes, and is of an Indian red colour with a hard close
grain. The trusses of flowers are at first of a light blue
mauve colour, and tlien change to a bright pink mauve,
when they are picked and dried and arc sent to all parts of
Abyssinia, and are used as a medicine for the taenia or tape-
worm, a very common complaint amongst the inhabitants,
and mostly brought on by eating raw meat and tnpc,
which is consumed in lai^c quantities and is never washed.
This tree is a very ornamental one and no doubt could be
easily grown in all the southern counties of England, as it
grows here at the highest altitudes where snow, sleet and
frost are common. The giant erica should also do out of
doors on our west coast that has the benefit of the Gulf
stream, but I have never heard that attempts have been
made to bring over eitlicr of these specimen.*.
Above Teracha on the very highest ridges and peaks
grows a wonderful Lobelia, which is perhaps the strangest
and most unique plant in the whole country. Its scientific
name is Rhynchopctalum montana, and only one specimen
alive has been seen at Kcw. which died many years ago, I
was fortunate enough to procure some of its seed that I gave
to the Royal GanJens at Kcw, and also to some of my
friends, and I hope soon that it will be acclimatised in
F4igland, and that the public will be able to ;idmire it when
planted out in ihe different parks and public gardens. In
shape this plant is more like the common yucca but its stem
is much longer and broader, a large specimen will just before
the plant flowers be perhaps as high as from seven to eight
feet, and perfectly bare of leaves and the stem of a dark
brown Iooks more like a small crocodile's skin; then will
come a bunch of sharp pointed yucca shaped droopji^
leaves, making a bush of another six feet in height from
which will spring a straight shaft of flower perhaps eight feet
in height ; the shaft will be clothed with a mass of small
flowers of an eau'de-Nil colour,
The effect of a group or mass of these plants is very fine
with their dark, shiny foliage, and as isolated specimens on
a lawn, or planted with the guna-gun.!, to which they would
offer a great contrast, would be an ornamental addition to
any garden. The Abyssinian name for this plant is the
S46
MOBEUN A3YSSINIA
ircvara, and, A» It lus a liollow fltetn, the small boys break it
down and use it as a trumpet. A great noise can be made
with it, and it can be beard for several mites in the mouotaiih
Ous country.
We got away about ten o'clock for an unknown destin*-
ttoR, and, as not one of our party knows the country, we bad
to engage a guide ; and wc bad a ^■'^1 difficulty in procumv
one, as they of course think it an unfriendly action to ukea
big part>' like wc arc now composed of to a village at whkfa
they have friends, with the chance of the soldiers pilta^ng
them. Hailou was very down on his luck last night, and ai
I knew he had no meat for himself and soldiers I made then)
a present of a couple of sheep. He ought to feed me, but
now it is the other way.
The Choum of the district, who had been ab<icnt, overtook
us and told the guide to take us to Artcmata, which was only
about twelve miles off, and the march 1 shall remember as
long as I live, owing to the lovely scenery, the glorious lights
and shades and the peculiar effect of the sun on the cloud-
banks, which often reflected our shadows as they were so
dense and so close, and for the many samples of climate met
with, frost and sleet, rain and hail, sunshine and cloud. witJi
two thunderstorms ; at one moment everything bright and
clear and at another everything obscured and so misty thai
it was Impossible to see more dian three or four yards ahead.
Our view to the south-west and south-east was entirely shut
out by the high downs that commenced from the road along
which we were travelling. Our main course yesterday was
south lO* east and to-day south 20' east for about ten mile^
when wc made about south-cast to our camping-place. The
view of Uie Teracha valley was very fine, and two glimpses
of the northern country were only visible through two breaks
in the mountains. The one to the north-north-west took to
part of our old friend, the Musoollo group, and the other to
the north-north-cast, the mountains round Amba Alagt.
The point of the star-shaped valley up which we tmvclled
soon turned into a deep canyon, and just as wc were turn-
ing a sharp point in the road, that was very narrow, with a
deep precipice on one side, the mist rolled down the mountains
and completely shut out our view, and we had to stop owing
to the dense fog and the narrowness of our path which n
walking dangerous. A puff of wind came from the
and in a few minutes it cleared, and the vir < iy
one, looking up the canyon with its enormous uha
LASTA PROVmCE
347
and boulders. At the head or the gorge was a magnificent
stream of water broken into numerou.s cascades. It then
flowed rather tranquilly for about a hundred yards over fairly
level ground, when it plunged down as a splendid waterfall
into the deep abyss. On uie opposite side three other fair*
sized waterfalls were coming down the broken sides of the
mountains, one of them making a clear plunge of several
hundreds of feet, white the side we were on another small
feathery fall fell from ridge to ridge, and crossed our path as
a small stream some thirty yards broad by about eighteen
Inches deep, and then made nearly a sheer drop into the
depths below. The mountain side was covered with big ericas,
gevaras; giant thistles, gorse and tufts of fern, and the grass and
moorland was dotted all over with wild flowers, many being
old Knglish friends and others entirely new to mc. Schimpcr
was delighted, as he has inherited his father's taste for flowers,
and ncidier he nor his father had ever visited this district.
We caught a glimpse of the black gucrcza monkeys, and the
cootDg noise Uiat they make, somcUiing like a pigeon, could
be plainly heard. Here and there a klipspringer antelope
bounded across the path and then sprung from boulder to
boulder up the mountain side, till at last it remained stationary
on some pointed rock, its fore and hind feet nearly touching
and its four hoofs perhaps not occupying a circle of more
than tliree inches in diameter, its shape looking most curious
against the background of blue sky.
A big francolin was common but very wild. I do not
remember seeing this species before, and many hares and the
large dark brown sand-grouse nearly the same colour as the
English bird were very plentiful. 1 should have liked to
have remained a week at this spot, as the scenery was
charming and no doubt many new and lovely hardy flowers
could be collected, and the country seemed to be full of small
game, but I had to go on with my march, as I was not my
own master.
We slipped more than walked down to the bottom of the
canyon, and got drenched by the spray and mist from the
waterfalls, and as one could not have been much wetter, we
walked through the stream at the ford, the water being
bitterly cold, and commenced the terrible climb up the otlier
■iilc, and it took us fully an hour to get to the top : at this
place it took tis con-iiderably over an hour and a half to make
about a thou»aml yardji of e 1 Uierc arc many places
in northern Abysti :&
348 ftlODERN ABYSSINIA
rJ^ch^'l^^ ^™"' the Artemata aide of the goise tow«4
mSTmU^ ^ T^ through a rift in ^ST mountauH fcr
inan> mues on their way north. Thin <»»«» .T.9.ir. th*
W e were not wrry to get into camp and get a duan M
I «^s «-et through, and alternately shivering and p^ag
with a ver>- bad attack of fever brought on by my diiddnj
I had a miserable night as the tent got blown down durinei
storm of wind by the pegs drawing, and with die fcwr
atiemalely throwing off my cover during the hot atOdks,
and i^'ain piling e\-er>-thing I could on me, when the cold to
oame on. I took considerably over sixty grains of quiniiM;
and managed towards morning to get a little sleep, and woke
without any fever, but with my head buzzing from the eSfccto
of the quinine.
A cokl, raw. cheerless morning with thin ice eveiyidien;
as fn.'>iii this altitude we look down upon Abouna-Josepli
mountain supposed to be over ten thousand feet, which is to
the north-east About seven o'clock, it commenced to snov
and lasted for about an hour, when it turned into a cold nia
which speedily changed the white landscape again into green.
The mules look tucked up, and I was fortunate enough to
pet a lot of barle>- for them, that the poor brutes devoured
ravenously, as thej' have been lately on short grain ratioRs.
We had a long march of about hventy miles to do from
Artemata to get off the down land, and started with evety-
thiujj more or less wet through, luckily as soon as we started
it began to clear up, and it soon turned out a glorious day,
with bright sunshine and a nearly cloudless sky, and we had
in some parts a splendid view towards Dildi, and also to
the north, and the Wadela and Dalanta plateaux in the
neighbourhood of Magdala to the south and south-east.
Soon after leaving the village we came to the road that
runs to Lalibela, and some of the churches of this town were
visible. It was about ten miles distant and much below us.
The downs were nearly treeless, and the only plant of any
size was the gevara, long lines of them standing up on the
ridges against the sky-line. Here a very conspicuous feature
in the scenery were the long walls of quartz, that ran in
irri^ular lines across the open down-land, the gradual wash
of rain of countless centuries had removed the softer soil and
left the hard rock standing, and many of these walls were
LASTA PROVINCE
349
•rci
milQT
Hwal
to thirty feet in height ; in parts where the veins were
thin, they had fallen from the gradual erosion, and lay in
confused heaps ; while in otlter places where the veins were
thicker, they stood as a giant rampart, and offered an
unsurmoun tabic ob-sttclc to the traveller. Against many of
these walh the shepherds had built their cattle sheds, where
thcj' housed their animals at night, and where they generally
sought shelter before sunset from the bitter cold winds that
svrccp these high uplands. Here again the cattle disease had
not worked the same ravages as in the lower countries and
large herds of horned beasts, besides flocks of sheep were
scattered over the downs and looked fat and healthy. Large
droves of brooil mares and their foals, pure bred and cross
were very numerous, the foiils galloping madly about, now
charging in a compact mass, then changing the order and
following each other in a long string, then halting and
wheeling, and then closing together ^ain and coming full
gallop quite close to us to have a look at the strangers, and
then returning as hard as they could go to their daras,
bucking, squealing and kicking at each other and enjoying
their liberty and short childhood.
The peasants of this part of the country escaped the
exactions of King Mcnclck's troops on their march north
and south, and gathered in force on the only paths that lead
from the highlands to the low country. These paths are
very abrupt, and there is not more than enough room for two
or at mo.'it three people abreast on them, so they arc easily
defended by resolute men armed with modern breech-loaders,
and those tliat crown the heights have those that arc ascend-
ing at their mercy. Where we left the highland, the descent
was down a zig-zag path with very awkward places, and my
riding mule has a trick of going to the edge of the path and
doing a sort of Blondin business on the extreme edge which
I dislike immensely, as on looking sideways from the saddle
there is nothing but space, and a tumble would mean instant
death. I believe the little brute knows I dislike it, and does
it on purpose ; coming down, a bit of the path gave way with
one of her hind feet, and a small avalanche of small stones
were started, »o I got off and walked, and let her go down of
icr own accortl ; but she still kept to tlie edge, instead of
king in tlie middle of the path as any other animal would
do. I never get giddy, and can climb up any mountain, but
I prefer going on the level, and the days arc passed that I
delighted in getting to the top of every peak that 1 came across-
850 MODERN ABYSSINIA
The road led down from the south of the Lada platen
to Wandie, and the road made by the English to the Tacute
river, could easily be seen for miles. At last we Btrack it
and rollowed it for about a mile, and then made off to a
series of hamlets to the east of the valley, down which the
river Dangelsa runs to join the Tacazze At the first vill^
of Wandatch the escort began entering the houses and
seeing what they could steal ; the men of the hamlet were dl
away in the fields, and the women were unprotected. I was
very amused at seeing three of the men that entered «ie of
the houses rush out very quickly with swarms of bees en-
circling their heads, and then two women and a girl mah out
and go into a neighbouring house and shut the door. Tm
of them were very fair, nearly white, and aa soon as 1 fot
safe away from the bees I made inquiries about them Hid
what had taken place, and I found that the women had
deliberately upset the bee hives inside the house that wtte
attached to the walls so as to drive the soldteis away
and a very effective mode it was, as the bees knowing Ac
occupants of the house, had gone for the strangers. One of
the soldiers had both eyes closed from the stings, and hii
head was greatly swollen, another had one eye closed and
the third was also badly stung. They threatened all sorts d
things against the women, but they did not dare go near tbe
village again.
The nearly white woman and her daughter, who was
nearly as fair, owed their colour to some tittle accidoit
during the 1868 expedition. There had been a camp at
Wandatch, and it was also a Commissariat station, when
quantities of stores were purchased, and the fair woman was
one of the results of the march to Magdala ; she was voy
nice looking, and went by the name of the " Inglese ; " hCT
daughter was a pretty pert little thing about ten years old,
but not nearly as fair as her mother, who would have passed
as an English woman.
The road built by the English is still in a good state of
repair, and considering nothing had been done to it for
twenty-eight years, it must have been originally a very good
piece of work. The road from Wandatch to the Ta
river is so well mapped and described, that it wutti
further remarks from me. We took the lower road In if
valley, leading past Wandatch Mariam church u ft
although not so good, a trifle shorter dun tbe one
the English, The climate had entirely changed fia
LASTA PROVINCE
351
day. On the Lasta highlands it might be termed early spring,
and patches of wheat and barley the only grains grown ; here
along the banks of the Dangelsa river, it was what might be
called early summer, with all sorts of Abyssinian crops being
cultivated. The Dangclsa is more like a highland trout
stream, a succession of pools and broken water and shallows,
about two feet deep. We crossed the stream where some
irrigation channels branched off to cultivate the lower flats
and took a south-easterly road to the Tacazzc river, here
about lifly yards broad, to a ford and then camped at the
village of Kuvena. This is a pretty spot, and a good view of
the Tacaz):e valley is obtainabit;, which runs due east and
west Towarils the west, by using the glasses, the town of
Lalibela with its numerous churches is distinctly .seen, and
to the ea.st the high crater-shaped end of the valley shuts out
a further view.
Just before crossing the Tacazzc one of the soldiers forming
the escort commenced stealing the peas and beans belonging
to the peasants, and on a small boy trying to prc^'ent olm
the soldier beat him. another boy then ran up and hit the
soldier over the head with a quarter staff and felled him to
the ground. There was only the jKtty officer near and be
rode back to complain to Dedjatch Ali, the governor of the
district, where Hailou and the rest of the escort were having
a feast. 1 put the wounded soldier on a mule and went on
after my luggage where all my bandages were kept, telling
the two boys to run away and hide as tlicy might get into
trouble, so accordingly they went away due west in an
opposite direction as bard as they could. I admired their
pluck and I had no sympathy for the soldier whatever
It was dusk when liailoii came back and too tatc for him
to go back to get the villagers punished, and he had also
missed the petty officer who did not turn up till the next
morning, aoid he was then very drunk. The first thing tiiat
Hailou knew of the aflair was seeing his wounded soldier
whose head I had bandaged up with a pad of lint and a
ssing of carbolic. The wound was down to the bone and
Ibout three inches long and would have killed any ordinary
European, but the Abj'ssinians' skulls arc about as hard as
jc rocks of which their country is composed. This wound
oade the other soldiers more chary of stealing, and what
^ith the bees and the boy that broke the soldier's head, our
people Had certainly got the worst of it in this district. The
Hung looked an awful sight.
352 MODERN ABYSSINIA
.lips, nose, eyes and ears all swollen up, and on looking at
himself in my looking-glass he promptly dropped it wiCh
fright and said alt sorts of thii^ against the women ; tiie
girls at Kuvena also chaffed him and asked him if he liked
Wandatch honey. Ever after on the trip one could always
get a rise out of him by asking when be had had any itoaxy
last ; a bee had a sore point for him.
Next morning we made an early start froot Kuvena and
it was bitter cold, my fingers and toes ached and I did the
first three hours on foot and found walkii^ at a sharp pace
the only way to keep warm. From a clear steel-gin
morning with heavy white clouds hanging on the peaks it
became, as soon as the sun got high enough, a beautifully
warm bright day, but still when one was not moving the lee
of a big rock in the sun was pleasant as the stiflT breoe
blowing was very cold.
We halted for lunch just vis-a-vis to the first sources of
the Tacazze. They are situated on a small level field about
R&y feet above the bottom of the valley, and there may be
about twenty of them altogether, many of them shaded by
an evergreen bush which was quite new to me and seemed to
be of the privet order. Just before reaching the sources OD
a hill on the north side of the valley is the Church of
Chevenan Goi^is in a splendid grove of juniper trees;
immediately above the sources on the hill is another church
also surrounded by juniper trees dedicated to Debbessa Jesu;
tradition has it that when Menelek, the son of the Queen of
Sheba by King Solomon, came from Jerusalem with the ark,
it was placed on the ground at this spot where he camped,
and these springs gushed forth and he immediately ordered
a temple to be buiit on the spot.
On leaving this camp Menelek commenced his nnarch
towards the east, and on the bearers of the ark putting it
down, after about an hour's march, they found that tiuy
could not move it as it firmly adhered to the ground.
This spot is supposed by some of the Abyssinians to he the
true resting-place of the ark that was brought from Jerusalem;
there is a church built over the spot called Eyela Kudus
MichaeL It is situated opposite to the village of Eyela
which takes up the western slopes of a very pretty small
valley running north from the main Tacazze valley, the
church being on the western slope of the valley. It is
nearly impossible for a stranger to obtain admittance to this
church, and the place in the Holy of Holies where the ark
I.ASTA PROVINCE
S53
^
is supposed to rest is shown to no one. This ark cannot be in
two places ; the people of the nortli declare it is in the sacred
grove of Axum in the church of ScIataMusser(P]ace of Moses),
and the priests ofthcEycIa district declare it is in their church,
so they always quarrel and wrangle over this vexed question,
the same as kuropcan priests do over their sacred relics.
Eyela church is splendidly situated and the whole district
is one of the most picturesque spots in Abyssinia, being well
wooded and full of the most enormous Kousxo trees, and the
flowers from these trees are supposed to be more efficacious
for the cure of the tapcwonn than from any other district,
TTiese trees were in full bloom and loi^ked very handsome
with their Indian red-gnarled stems, bright green leaves and
pinkish and bluish mauve masses of flowers. Everything
seems to grow in this favoured and sheltered spot. The
church is of the circular kind and neither better nor worse
than the ordinary run of Abyssinan buildings.
After leaving Eycla wc continued our march due cast up
the valley, the lower level being nearly knee-deep with splendid
grass and lar^e herds of cattle, droves of horses and flocks
of sheep dotted about over the landscape ; the sides of the
hills were covered with barley, the wind making movements
In the thick crops like ripples on an emerald sea, and ^bove
all the curious gevaras standing like sentinels on tlie sky
line. The grass land ended in a quaking bog, and after this
was passed, not, however, without a little trouble, the ri.4e out
of the partly crater-shaped valley commenced up one of the
worst bits of road that I ever experienced, the ground being
composed of boulders divided by bog into which the mules
sank up to their fetlocks ; springs of water were evw^-whcrc,
and the snipe in wisps and singly were rising all round us,
and splendid sport might have been had. A tiresome climb
ended in harder ground and then the rock was reached, and
a few hundre<l yards further the dividing ridge between the
Xacazze and the waters going west from those to the east.
Nothing could have been more lovely than the view, and
;c weather, for a wonder, had been behaving itself. Bright
sunshine with an occasional passing fleecy white cloud that
threw shadows on the vast landscape before us. To the
nortli the highlands of the Tacazze sources, then a little
further west the tiers of Lasta downs, over which we crossed
due west the far-olf mountains of B^emeder. To Uie south
the open plateaux of Wadela rising towards the aoutb-west
to the environs of Magdala, making up a lovely view of a
Z
854 MODEBN ABYSSINIA
ch^twning country, and, demlte Ha cold wiod^ifept wfam
downs, more like our F.ogiim border countiea tiianiaycftg
■ceneiy I can liken it to only here on a buger sciJe ^m
dut Qt England. Turning to tlie east and walldog Sx itHt
fifty yardi, one cornea b> the top of a huge pnapke, and
what a different picture meets the eye; A sheer dnp ti
many hundred feet and then terrace won tenaoe of bwl^
and wheat tiU tne lower part of the vallery is readied, atae
crops of a warmer counlxy are cultivatec^ the nordiaa aid
north-eastern part being covered hi hy open down lan^kot
the main southern road runsinand fcwows forajboutaoaqh
of miles the middle of the valley of which die ridge «c aR
fltanding on forms one sid&
Due east a break in the mountains reveal* s tfioV*
of the simmering hot Danaldl low country, and taMV
mountains again rise to a hifl^ier elevation aod fbnw At
Siposite side of the valley tlut forms tmier Y^«. 1^
very waterfalls drop down the ridge uom ^e UfUiai,
and one of the streams that makes the nearest oos dindpll
two, part of the water going down the bosEy slope tqi ^UA
we struggled towards the Tacaase^ the ottier towaida As
Dan^l country, at last to be swallowed up In that thfc^
land. I sat on this ridge for over two hours watching «a
Intense interest the lovely scenery to be seen on either iU^
certainly the sources of the Tacazze are most lov^ aid
make up a bit of territory any country might be ptoud oC
It luis always been, it is said, held by the Christiaii^
Mahomed Grayn not being able to conquer it and the w3d
Galtas, from further south, never came further than thek
stronghold of Magdala, and always left Eyela and iti
churches, and the other priestly city of Laltbela. further
down the valley in peace.
Here may be said to end the pure Christian paxt «(
Abyssinia, as the Inhabitants of the country further aonlh
are a mixture of the two creeds, Moslem aiid Christlani die
latter all being Amharans, who I consider a much inferior
breed than those that inhabit Tigr^ and the north. The men
not being as fine, nor the women so handsome and neither
sex capable of so much development The southern GaUas
have been conquered by the Western Amharans, and they have
now been for many yean a conquered race, whereas durbig
tiw time of the Mtnlem wave of conquest they mastered not
only the south but lane pcutiona of the north, but they neva
cotud quite bring the Christian mountaineers under their rule.
CHAPTER XVI
YEJJU AND RAS WOLY
^HE descent rrom the hi(;hlands to the cistem main road
to the south vras part of the way a terrible scrareblc,
intl af^er leaving the rocky granite walls, deep holding layers
ft)( black and red soil were reached ; we followed the road
for about three miles, alway.s dcticending when wc struck
the upper canyon which branches out into the Yejju valley
of Sanca. The Italian map here is far from correct, as there
Is no other road except a mountain path some four miles
further cast, which is never used except by foot people.
The road runs due north and south to within about a
KInt. Every mile, tlie more we descended, the weather
came warmer, and there Is a most marked chanf^c in the
v^ctation and surroundings. At the top of the canyon, the
road runs through a splendid erica forest, these trees give
(dace to juniper, shumac and others that floun'sli in a
country with a trifle u-armcr climate till at last the trees
consist of wania, wild olive, different sycamore, figs and a
very pretty tree called by the Abj'ssinians the Waiva, which
grows to a large size and is very spreading and shady. It
produces at the end of each branchlct a bunch of purple-
coloured flowurs which contain a flat seed about the size of
a shilling, that is uiicd by the priests to dye their garments a
yellow colour, a lighter shade than gamble, and the dresses
of tlie Buddhist priests in Ceylon and those worn by the
Abys.sinian monks arc nearly of the same tint.
The Waiva is found in the Hamascn and as near the
k'Coast as Ghiuda, but never at a very high or very low
elevation averaging from 3.OOO to 5,000 feet altitude. We
jain got into the country of the giant mimosa trees and the
Tctation at last got nearly tropical, lar^c groves of bananas
irrounding many of the houses. The wild flowers were a
Fgorgeous sight and of many varied and beautiful descriptions,
the wild, climbing, pink pea covering the forest trees to the
topmost branches, and hanging down in festoons of
346
MODERN ABYSSINIA
gevara, and, aa it has a hollow stem, the small boys break ^
down and use it as a tnimpet. A great noise can be made
witl) it, and it can be heard for several mites in the mountain-
ous country.
We f[ot away about ten o'clock for an unknown destina-
tion, and, as not one of our party knows the country, wc had
to cnRaKc a guide ; and we had a great difficulty in piocuring
one, as they of courne think it an unfriendly action to lake a
big party like wc arc now composed of to a villj^e at which
they have friends, with the chance of the soldiers pillaging
them. Hailou was very down on his luck last night, and as
I knew he had no meat for himself and soldiers I made them
a present of a couple of sheep. He ought to feed mc, but
DOW it is the other way.
The Choum of the district, who had been absent, overtook
us and told the guide to tike us to Artcmata. which was only
about twelve miles olT, and the march 1 shall remember as
long as I live, owing to the lovely scenery, the glorious l^hts
and shades and the peculiar effect of the sun on the cloud-
bankit, which often reflected our shadows as tJiey were so
dense and so close, and for the many samples of climate mcA
with, frost and sleet, rain and hail, sunshine and cloud, with
two thunderstorms ; at one moment everything bright and
clear and at another everything obscured and so misty that
it was impossible to see more than three or four yards ahead.
Our view to the south-west and south-east was entirely shut
out by the high downs that commenced from the road along
which wc were travelling. Our main course yesterday was
south lO* east and to-day south 20* cast for about ten miles,
when we made about south-east to our camping-plaoe. The
view of the Teracha valley was very fine, and two glimpses
of the northern country were only visible through two breaks
in the mountains. The one to the north-north-west took in
part of our old friend, the Muscollo group, and the other to
the north -north -cast, the mountains roiinii Amba Alajjl.
The point of the slar-shapcd valk;. I'-tl
soon turned into a deep ca"v<>ii am ru-
ing a sharp point in the w-
deep precipice on one sidr ■'.
and completely shut out
to the dense fog and the r.
walking dangerous- A ;
and in a few minutes it
one, looking up the canyi
LASTA PROVINCE
8*^
m
1 w:
id boulders. At the head of the gorge was a magnificent
cam of water broken into numerous cascades. It thea
iwed rather tranquilly for about a hundred yards over fairly
evcl Rround, when it plunjied down as a splendid waterfall
into the deep abyss. On the opposite side three other fair-
zed waterfalls were coming down the broken sides of the
ountains, one of them making a clear plunge of several
hundreds of feet, while the side we were on another small
feathery fall fell from ridge to ridge, and cn>ased our path as
a small stream some tliirty yards broad by about eighteen
inches deep, and then made nearly a sheer drop into the
depths below. The mountain side was covered with big ericas,
gcvaras, giant thistles, gorse and tufls of fern, and the grass and
oorland was dotted all over with wild flowers, many being
d English friends and others entirely new to me. Schimper
was delighted, as he has inherited his father's taste for flowers,
and neither he nor his father had ever visited this district,
e caught a glimpse of the black gucrcza monkeys, and the
oing noise that they make, something like a pigeon, could
plainly heard. Kere and there a klipspringer antelope
uiided acroiss Uie path and then sprung from boulder to
Ider up the mountain .side, till at la.*!! it remained stationary
some pointed rock, its fore and hind feet nearly touching
id its (our hoofs perhaps not occupying a circle of more
than tlirce inches in diameter, its shape looking most curious
against the background of blue sky.
A big francolin was common but very wild- I do not
remember seeing this species before, and many hares and the
large dark brown sand-giousc nearly the same colour as tlie
English bird were very plentiful. I should have liked to
have remained a week at this spot, as the scenery was
charming .ind no doubt many new and lovely hardy (lowers
Id be collected, and the country .lecmcd to be full of small
e, but i had to go on with my march, as I was not my
r.
more than walked down to the bottom of tlie
;ot drenched by the spray and mist from the
as one could not have been much wetter, we
OUgh the stream at the ford, the water being
iM mil! i-oMuii.nced the terrible climb up the other
an hour to get to the top : at this
'■■ --.-: an hour and a half to make
, and there are many places
■■■^ wUctc IhiA takes place.
S46 MODERN ABYSSFNIA
gevara, and, as it has a hollow stem, the small boys bfcak it
down and use it as a trumpet A great noise can be made
with it, and it can be heard for several miles in the mouotatn-
ous country.
We got away about ten o'clock for an unknowa destiiu-
tion, and, as not one of our party knows the country, we had
to engage a guide ; and we had a great difficulty in procuring
one, as they of course think it an unfriendly action to taket
big party like we are now composed of to a village at wliidi
they have friends, with the chance of the aoldiers pillaging
them. Hailou was very down on his tuck last nigh^ and u
I knew he had no meat for himself and soldiers I made Hum
a present of a couple of sheep. He ought to feed me, bat
now it is the other way.
The Choum of the district, who had been absent, overtook
us and told the guide to take ua to Artemata, which was ooly
about twelve miles off, and the march I shall remember u
long as I live, owing to the lovely scenery, the glorious l^ti
and shades and the peculiar effect of the sun on the cloud-
banks, which often reflected our shadows as they were so
dense and so close, and for the many samples of climate met
with, frost and sleet, rain and hail, sunshine and cloud, widi
two thunderstorms ; at one moment everything bright and
clear and at another everything obscured and so misty that
it was impossible to see more than three or four yards ahead.
Our view to the south-west and south-east was entirely shut
out by the high downs that commenced from the road along
which we were travelling. Our main course yesterday was
south lo* east and to-day south 20° east for about ten miles,
when we made about south-east to our camping-place. The
view of the Teracha valley was very fine, and two glimpses
of the northern country were only visible through two breaks
in the mountains. The one to the north-north-west took in
part of our old friend, the Muscollo group, and the other to
the north-north-east, the mountains round Amba Alagi.
The point of the star-shaped valley up which we travelled
soon turned into a deep canyon, and just as we were turn-
ing a sharp point in the road, that was very narrow, with a
deep precipice on one side, the mist rolled down the mountains
and completely shut out our view, and we had to stop owing
to the dense fog and the narrowness of our path which made
walking dangerous. A puff of wind came from the south,
and in a few minutes it cleared, and the view was a lovely
one, looking up the canyon with its enormous lining of rocks
LASTA PROVINCE
and boulders. At the head of the gorge was a magnificent
strcain of water broken into numerous cascades. It then
flowed rather tranquilly for about a hundred yards over fairly
level ground, when it plunged down as a splendid waterfall
into the deep abyss. On mc opposite side three other fair-
sized waterfalls were coming down the broken sides of the
mountains, one of them making a clear plunge of several
hundreds of feet, while the side we were on another small
feathery fall fell from ridge to ridge, and crossed our path as
a small stream some thirty yards broad by about eighteen
inches deep, and then made nearly a slieer drop into the
depths below. The mountain side was covered with big ericas,
gcvaras, giant thistles, gorse and tufts of fern, and the grass and
moorland was dotted all over with wild flowers, many being
old Hnglish friends and others entirely new to mc. Scbimpcr
was delighted, as he has inherited his father's taste for flowers,
and neither he nor his father had ever visited this district.
We caught a glimpse of the black guercza monkeys, and the
cooing noise that they make, something like a pigeon, could
be plainly heard. Here and there a klipspringer antelope
bounded acnns the ])ath and then sprung from boulder to
boulder up the mountain side, till at last it remained stationary
on some pointed rock, its fore and hind feet nearly touching
and its four hoofs perhaps not occupying a circle of more
than three inches in diameter, its shape looking most curious
against the background of blue sky.
A big francolin was common but very wild. I do not
remember seeing this species before, and many hares and the
large dark brown sand-grouse nearly the same colour as the
English bird were very plentiful. 1 should have liked to
have remained a week at this spot, as tlie scenery was
charming and no doubt many new and lovely hardy flowers
could be collected, and the country seemed to be full of small
game, but 1 had to go on with my march, as I was not my
own master.
We slipped more than walked down to the bottom of the
canyon, and got drenched by the spray and mist from the
watcrfaJls, and as one could not have been much wetter, we
walked through the stream at the ford, the water being
bitterly cold, and commenced the terrible climb up the other
side, and it took us fully an hour to get to the top : at this
place it look us considerably over an hour and a half to make
about a thousand yards of casting, and there are many places
in northern Abyssinia where this takes place;
348 MODERN ABYSSINIA
The view from the Artemata side of the gorge towinls
Terracha is or a grander scale, and the upper waten of ti»e
Tserrare can be traced through a rift in the mountains for
many miles on their way north. This gorge maria die
boundary between the Waag Choum's govemorate and tint
of Ras Woly the Governor of Yejju.
We were not sorry to get into camp and get a chai^ M
I was wet through, and alternately shivering and penptring
with a ver>- bad attack of fever brought on by my duddog;
I had a miserable night as the tent got blown down duria; a
stomi of wind by the pegs drawing, and with the fewr
alternately throwing off my cover during the hot attach
and again piling everything I could on me, when the cold fits
came on. I took considerably over sixty grains of qutnia^
and managed towards morning to get a little sleep, and woke
without any fever, but with my head buzzing from the effects
of the quinine.
A cold, raw, cheerless morning with thin ice eveiywfaen;
as fn.^m this altitude we look down upon Abouna-Joseph
mountain supposed to be over ten thousand feet, which is to
the north-easL About seven o'clock, it commenced to snow
and lasted for about an hour, when it turned into a cold nin
which speedily changed the white landscape again into greea.
The mules look tucked up, and I was fortunate enough tn
get a lot of barlej' for them, that the poor brutes devoured
ravenously, as they have been lately on short grain rations.
We had a long march of about twenty miles to do from
Artemata to get off the down land, and started with eveiy-
thiug more or less wet through, luckily as soon as we started
it began to clear up, and it soon turned out a glorious day,
with bright sunshine and a nearly cloudless sky, and we had
in some parts a splendid view towards Dildi, and also to
the north, and the Wadela and Dalanta plateaux in the
neighbourhood of Magdala to the south and south-east
Soon after leaving the village we came to the road that
nms to Lalibcta, and some of the churches of this town were
visible. It was about ten miles distant and much below us.
The downs were nearly treeless, and the only plant of any
size was the gevara, long lines of them standing up on the
ridges against the sky-line. Here a very conspicuous feature
in the sceneiy were the long walls of quartz, that ran in
irregular lines across the open down-land, the gradual wash
of rain of cotintless centuries had removed the softer soil and
left the hard rock standing, and many of these walls were
LASTA PROVINCE
349
ity to thirty feet in Iieight ; in parts where the veins were
they had fallen from the gradual erosion, and lay in
confused heaps ; while in other places where the veins were
thicker, they stood as a giant rampart, and offered an
unsurmountable obstacle to the traveller. Apainst many of
these walls the shepherds had built their cattle sheds, where
they housed their animals at night, and where they generally
sought .shelter before sunset from the bitter cold winds that
sweep these high uplands. Here again the cattle disease had
not worked the same ravages as in the lower countries and
large herds of horned beast*, besides flocks of slieep were
scattered over the downs and looked fat and healthy. Lai^
droves of brood marcs and their foals, pure bred and cross
were very numerous, the foals galloping madly about, now
charging in a compact mass, then changing the order and
following each other in a long string, then halting and
wheeling, and then closing together again and coming full
gallop quite close to us to have a look at the strangers, and
then returning as hard as they could go to their dams,
bucking, squealing and kicking at each other and enjoying
their liberty and short childhood.
The pca.santa of this part of the country escaped the
exactions of King Mcnclek'.s trt>o]>s on their march north
and south, and gathered in force on the only paths that lead
from the highlands to the low country. These paths are
very abrupt, and there is not more than enough room for two
or at most three people abreast on them, so they are easily
defended by resolute men armed with modern breech-loaders,
and those that crown the heights have those that arc ascend-
ing at their mercy. Where we left the highland, the descent
was down a zig-zag path with very awkward places, and my
riding mule has a trick of going to the edge of tlie path and
doing a sort of Blondin business on the extreme edge which
I dislike immensely, as on looking sideways from the saddle
there is nothing but .space, and a tumble would mean instant
death. I belic%-c the little bnite knows I dislike it, and does
it on purpose ; coming down, a bit of the path gave way with
one of her bind feet, and a small avalanche of small stones
were started, so I got off and walked, and let her go down of
her ovm accord ; but she still kept to the edge, instead of
walking in the middle of the path as any other animal would
do. I never get giddy, and can climb up any mountain, but
I prefer going on the level, and the days are passed that 1
delighted in getting to the top of every peak that I came across.
S4S: MODEBlf ABYSSINIA
gevara, and, as it has a litdlow atem. die Boiall boyi. hmk k
down and uae it as a tiumpet. A gfcat noise ca« ba aale
with it. and it can be heard foraevenl miles ia tii*t
ous country.
We got away about ten o'clock for an imlmttim
tioQ, and, as not one of our party knows the oountin ^Kiai
to engage a guide ; and we had a great difficulty ia pm
one, as th^ of course think It an unfriendly actioa to I
big party like we are now compoaed of to a vill^[e at '
they have friends, with the chance of tiie soldiera pQIiaill
than. Hailou was very down on his luck last n^^^ awM
I knew he had no meat for himself and soldieiB I mads thna
a present of a couple of sheep. He ought to feed m^M
now it is the other way.
The Choum of the district, who had been absent; oyutaoh
us and told the guide to take us to Artemata, which WMuijjr
about twelve miles ofT, and the march I shall remesabo' M
long as I live, owing to the lovely scenery, the ^ohaoM I
and shades and the peculiar effect of the sun on tiie
banks, which often reSectcd our shadows as they
dense and so close, and for the many samples of climate i
with, frost and sleet, rain and hail, sun^ne and cloik^ '
two thunderstorms ; at one moment everything br^it aid
clear and at another everything obscured and so muty that
it was impossible to see more tiian three or four yards ahead
Our view to the south-west and south-east was entirely duA
out by the high downs that commenced from the road oloiig
which we were travelling. Our main course yesterday wai
south lo* east and to-day south 20° east for about ten noQes,
when we made about south-east to our camping-plaoe. The
view of the Teracha valley was very fine, and two gUmpaa
of the northern country were only visible through two breaks
in the mountains. The one to the north-north-west took in
part of our old friend, the Muscollo group, and the other to
the north-north-east, the mountains round Amba Ala^.
The point of the star-shaped valley up which we trailed
soon turned into a deep canyon, and just as we were tam-
ing a sharp point in the road, that was very narrow, with a
deep precipice on one side, the mist rolled down the mountaioa
and completely shut out our view, and we bad to stop owing
to the dense fc^ and the narrowness of our path which made
walking dangerous. A puff of wind came from the south,
and in a few minutes it cleared, and the view was a lovely
one, looking up the canyon with its enormous lining of rocks
^A PROVmCE
347
ant) boulders. At the head of the gorge was a magnificent
stream of water broken into numerous cascades. It then
flowed rather tranquilly for about a hundred yarda over fairly
level ground, when it plunged down as a splendid waterfall
into tnc deep aby.is. On Uic opposite side three other fair*
sized waterfalls were coming down the broken sides of the
mountains, one of them making a clear plunge of several
hundreds of feet, while the side we were on another small
feathery fall fell from ridi^c to rid^c, and crossed our path as
a small stream some thirty yards broad by about eighteen
inches deep, and then made nearly a sheer drop into the
depths below. The mountain side was covered with big ericas,
gevara^ giant thistles, gorse and tufts of fern, and the grass and
moorland was dotted all over with wild flowers, many being
old English friends and others entirely new to me. Schimpcr
was delighted, as he has inherited his father's taste for flowers,
and neither he nor his father had ever visited this district.
We caught a glimpse of the black gucrcza monkeys, and the
cooing noise that they make, something like a pigeon, could
be i^ainly heard. Here and there a klipspringer antelope
bounded acro&s the path and then sprung from boulder to
boulder up tlie mountain side, till at last it remained .stationary
on some pointed rock, it$ fore and hind feet nearly touching
and its four hoofs perhaps not occupying a circle of more
than tiircc indies in diameter, its shape looking most curious
against the background of blue sky.
A big francolin was common but very wild. I do not
remember seeing this species before, and many hares and the
large dark brown sand-grouse nearly the same colour as the
English bird were ver>' plentiful. 1 should have liked to
have remained a week at this spot, as the scenery was
charming and no doubt many new and lovely hardy flowers
could be collected, and the country seemed to be full of small
game, but I had to go on with my march, as I was not my
master.
We slipped more than walked down to the bottom of the
yon, and got drenched by the spray and mist from the
aterfalls, and as one could not have been much wetter, we
ed through the stream at the ford, the water being
itterly cold, and commenced the terrible climb up the other
' e, and it took us fully an hour to get to the tc^ : at this
ilace it took us considerably over an hour and a half to make
about a thousand yards of easting, and there arc many places
in northern Abyssinia where tliis takes place.
364 MODERN ABYSSINIA
and two armchairs, besides many made of Austrisn bent
wood, and the whole of the lai^e room was very comfortably
furnished for an Abyssinian house.
We had on the low table at meal-times English knivei^
forks and spoons, as the Ras possessed a good travelling
canteen by Mappen, and the plates for a wonder were all of
the same colour and kept fairly clean. We were waited oo
by only two servants. One who had served with Eunqxans
evidently knew what he had to do, and was responsible for
serving the meals in a civilised manner. The Ras knew bow
to use his knife, fork and spoon, and never put the fonner
into bis mouth, and he was altogether entirely civilised,
although he had seldom seen foreigners. The disba
brought to table were entirely Abyssinian, and were wdl
cooked but of course highly flavoured with red pepper, I
particularly remember a roast fillet of beef with new potatoes
and a white cream sauce as being very excellent Schimper
and I were the only two guests, and, when I was ill and could
not eat with the Ras, Schimper was always invited, and tbea
some of his other high ofEcials had their meals with him.
I had many interesting conversations, and he told me the
great difficulty he had with the Yejju people when he fint
governed the country, and the number of people he had to
execute for cold-btooded murders before he could put down
the peculiar custom I mentioned before ; till now it is not
entirely put down, and precautions have to be taken, but the
victims now are nearly all strangers from a distance travelling
through the country ; and of course they have no relations that
can complain at the time and demand justice, nor is it always
possible to 6nd the murderer, although he would be certain
to be among those that had been married since the murder
was committed. He spoke in high terms of the fertility of
the country and its future, and was thoroughly aware that
when Abyssinia was opened up what a rich province Yejju
would be ; he was very interested in coffee cultivation, and
was very pleased when I told him that I had been four years in
Ceylon, where the best coffee still came from in spite of the
disease that had destroyed the majority of the plantations.
The Ras was also greatly interested when I told him tea
ought to do well in his country, and he immediately ordered
his servant to fetch some, and, on my telling him when it
arrived, it was too strong, he made me make a brew, and
when I asked for milk to put in it he seemed quite astonished,
as he had only tasted tea made in the Arab fashion. He
YEJJU AND RAS WOLY
363
the houses belonging to the Ras and his household, also
"protected by palisades. ITie lowest enclosure will be devoted
to the animals, and where the horses and rnules that are
required for riding purposes arc tethered durinp the day ;
the second enclosure will contain soldiers' and servants'
houses and v^ctable gardens, and the third the houses and
the private garden betonpinR to the Ras.
These fortified [wsitions are quite strong enough to rei>cl
any attack made by tlie people from the low country, or any
attack againflt soldiers aTme<l only with rifles, but being so
exposed they could not stand against artillery. There are
many of these posts all through Ycjju and at every market
town, and all the roads from the lower country are thus
protected ; they serve ever>' purpose, and if the Abysslnians
f purchase modern artillery as good as that used by their
nvaders, they will always be difficult places to take, and
there will be a severe struggle to subject the country. These
forts have nearly always a spring of water within the fortifica-
tions, or the water supply is only a few yard-i outside the gates,
and are protected with a guard house, amply fortified so that
water can always be procured. All granaries that Ras Woly
owns arc fireproof, and arc roofed over with earth, and the
only part that could be burnt is the door ; the dwelling houses
are however all thatched, and would easily be set on fire.
I remained with the Ras for two whole days and two half
days, and I should have enjoyed myself very much had it
not been for fever, as I had a three days bout of it, and when
the cold access came on I shivered under piles of covers, and
with two woollen suits of underclothing, two flannel shirts,
a tweed suit and an uUter. It prevcntevl nie from going on
three occasions to eat with llie Ras, as I was invited to every
meal during my stay ; as it was I had five with him, and his
kindness to me was very great, as he knew I was not in a
position to give him anv present in return.
His house in which he receives is certainly the best I have
ceen in Abyssinia. It is circular, but with a very wide raised
verandah running all round it ; the interior is beautifully
finished, the roof being decorated with scarlet and dark blue
cloth, and the boarding of the ceiling all made of planks of
the wanza tree. The posts of juniper that upheld the roof
were nicely carved. Many good cupboards of arabesque
work, lined the well plastered and neutral tinted walls, the
flooring was well cemented ami covered with Turkish and
Persian carpets ; tliere was also a Bombay black wood sofa
84B MODERN ABYSSINIA
The view from the Artemata side of the gorge towuib
Terracha is on a grander scal^ and the upper waters of Ac
Tserrare can be traced through a rift in the mountains for
many miles on their way north. This got^ nuurks tbe
boundary between the Waag Choum's govemorate aad that
of Ras Woly the Governor of Yejju.
We were not sorry to get into camp and get a chai^^ H
I was wet through, and alternately shivering and perspiring
with a very bad attack of fever brought on by my duddng.
I had a miserable night as the tent got blown down during a
storm of wind by the pegs drawing, and with Ae fever
alternately throwing off my cover during the hot attado^
and again piling everything I could on me, when the cold fits
came on. I took considerably over sixty grains of quinine
and managed towards morning to get a little sleep, and woke
without any fever, but with my head buzzing from the effect)
of the quinine.
A cold, raw, cheerless morning with thin ice cvcryyAxtt,
as from this altitude we look down upon Abouna-Joseph
mountain supposed to be over ten thousand feet, which is to
the north-east. About seven o'clock, it commenced to saow
and lasted for about an hour, when it turned into a cold rain
which speedily changed the white landscape again into greea
The mules look tucked up, and I was fortunate enough to
get a lot of barley for them, that the poor brutes devoured
ravenously, as they have been lately on short grain rationsL
We had a long march of about twenty mites to do from
Artemata to get off the down land, and started with every-
thing more or less wet through, luckily as soon as we started
it began to clear up, and it soon turned out a glorious day,
with bright sunshine and a nearly cloudless sky, and we had
in some parts a splendid view towards Dildi, and also to
the north, and the Wadela and Dalanta plateaux in the
neighbourhood of Magdala to the south and south-east
Soon after leaving the village we came to the road that
runs to Lalibela, and some of the churches of this town were
visible. It was about ten miles distant and much below u&
The downs were nearly treeless, and the only plant of any
size was the gevara, long lines of them standing up on the
ridges against the sky-line. Here a very conspicuous feature
in the scenery were the long walls of quartz, that ran in
irregular lines across the open down-land, the gradual wash
of rain of countless centuries had removed the softer soil and
left the hard rock standing, and many of these walls were
LASTA PROVINCE
349
ity to thirty feet in height ; in parts wliere the veins were
they had fallen from tiie gradual erosion, and lay in
confused heaps ; while in other places where the veins were
thicker, they stood as a giant rampart, and oflfcrcd an
unsurtnountablc obstacle to the traveller. Against many of
these walls the shepherds had built their cattle sheds, where
they housed their animals at night, and where they generally
sought shelter before sunset from the bitter cold winds that
sweep these high uplands. Mere ^^ain the cattle disease had
not worked the same ravages as in the lower countries and
large herds of horned beasts, beside? flocks of sheep were
scattered over the downs and looked fat and healthy. Large
droves of brood mares and their foals, pure bred and cross
were very numerous, the foaU galloping madly about, now
charging in a compact mass, then changing the order and
following each other in a long string, then halting and
^wheeling, and then closing together ^ain and coming full
^^^llop quite close to us to have a look at the strangers, and
^Hien returning as hard as they could go to their dams,
^^Mcklng, squealing and kicking at each other and enjoying
^Hieir liberty and short childhood.
^^ The peasants of this part of the countiy escaped the
^exactions of King Menelek's troops on their march north
and south, and gathered in force on the only paths that lead
from the highlands to the low country. These paths arc
very abrupt, and there is not more than enough room for two
or at most three people abreast on them, so they are easily
defended by resolute men armed with modern breech-loaders,
and those that crown the heights have those that arc ascend-
ing at their mercy. Where we left the highland, the descent
was down a zig-zag path with very awkward places, and my
riding mule has a trick of going to the edge of the path and
doing a sort of Blondin business on the extreme edge which
I dislike immensely, as on looking sideways from tlie saddle
there is nothing but space, and a tumble would mean instant
death. I believe the little brute knows I dislike it, and does
it on purpose ; coming down, a bit of the path gave way with
one of her bind feet, and a small avalanche of small stones
were started, so I got oATand walked, and let her go down of
her own accord ; but she still kept to the edge, instead of
walking in the middle of the path as any other animal would
do. I never get giddy, and can climb up any mountain, but
I prefer going on the level, and the da>'5 are passed that I
delighted In getting to the top ofevery peak that I came across.
8C8 MODEBN ABYSSimA
good-looldnf^ but rather cfianfaurt^ and he i
her taking an^ notice of me and Sdilmper.
" I was sorry the tiiree days she jouincmd wtt a^lkift I
had fever so badly, as I should have much Ubed tohsMfiMl
out more about what is done by the nuiu^ tftte oidf Cbnavl
have had have been from good [mous old ladlea at AbUAW
and Macalle, who fasted for over half the number i
the year, and were perpetually praying and «rf«gW froii Ik
early grey dawn till late at night, and Husy ae^ued tolMl*
calm and peaceful life in their beautiful natural anno^dbn
and bothered themselves very little mth the tmebletafapi
life, and passed their days in eating, sleeping' and ainilk
and doing what little acts of charity that th^ cooU tl K
way of tending the sick and feeding any poor
came to their houses."
Just before arriving at Merta we saw a crowd of i
at a church on the top of the hill, and found out that the !■
was at church saying his prayers, as It was a aafaft diffil
believe St Denya*, but why he should be ceMxated la Ml
country 1 could not learn, and what he waa bxaaoBittA
have no idea. I waited at the foot of the hill untU titt.9|l
came down, and went forwa^ to meet him, lAen tte itik
mule on which he was riding, turned round and woald
face me ; he dismounted and we shook hands, and he '.
ingly said that neither his mule nor he had seen an En^isliflM
before, but he hoped that they would both know moie d
them in future. He left a man with me to show me i^UC
to camp, and rode on to a neighbouring village, and
me to come and see him in the afternoon.
We encamped on a nice green about two hundred _
from the gates of the fortified hill on which the Raa has !■
dwelling and store houses. A small isolated hill is general^
chosen to build on, and if some of the sides are very steep
so much the better, as they are easier defended; a tfaon
zareba is generally placed all round, strengthened wiA t
stout upright palisade, and to each pole is attached anotfar
projecting one at about an angle of thirty degrees, the ondcr
part of the projecting pole is protected by thorns, so the fcDoe
is perfectly unclimbable. The interior of the palisade is si^
ported by a wall of turf about five feet thick and about foor
feet high, so that two rows of soldiers with rifles can deftarf
it, and shoot through the spaces between the upright poks ;
a second line of palisades strengthened in front by a ditdi ii
constructed half way up the hill, and the top will be crowned
YE.TJU AND RAS WOLY
363
by the houses belonging txi the Ras and his household, also
protected by palisade;). The lowest enclosure will be devoted
to the animals, and where the horses and nulcs that arc
required for riding purposes are tethered during the day;
the second enclosure will contain soldiers' and servants*
houses and vegetable gardens, and the third the houses and
the private garden belonging to the Ras.
These fortified positions are quite strong enough to repel
any attack made b>' the people from the low country, or any
attack against soldiers armed only with rifles, but being so
exposed they could not stand against artillery. There arc
many of these posts all through Ycjju and at every market
town, and all the roads from the lower country are thus
protected ; they serve cvcr>- purpose, and if the Abyssinian*
purchase modern artillery as good as that used by their
invaders, they will always be difficult places to take, and
there will be a severe struggle to subject the countrj-. These
forts have nearly always a spring of water within the fortifica-
tion!!, or the water supply is only a few yards outside the gates,
and are protected with a guard house, amply fortified so that
water can always be procured. All granaries that Ras Woly
owns arc fireproof, and are roofed over with earth, and the
only part that could be burnt is the door ; the dwelling houses
are however all thatched, and would easily be set on fire.
I remained witli the Ras for two whole days and two half
days, and 1 should have enjoyed myself very much had it
not been for fever, as I had a three days bout of it, and when
the cold access came on I shivered under piles of covers, and
with two woollen suits of underclothing, two flannel shirts,
a tweed suit and an ulster. It prevented me from going on
three occasions to eat with the Ras, as I was invited to every
meal during my stay ; as it was 1 had five with him, and hJs
kindness to me was very great, as he knew I was not in a
position to give him any present in return.
His house in which he receives is certainly the best I have
seen in Abyssinia. It is circular, but with a very wide raised
verandah running all round It ; the interior is beautifully
finished, the roof being decorated with scarlet and dark blue
cloth, and the boarding of the ceiling all made of planks of
the wanza tree. The posts of juniper that upheld the roof
were nicely carved. Many good cupboards of arabesque
work, lined the well plastered and neutral tinted walls, the
flooring was well cemented and covered with Turkish and
Persian carpets ; there was also a Bombay black wood sofa
S66 MODERN ABYSSINIA
and the soldiery. Under the English advice I believe tlie
country would make rapid strides, and it would only want
an English resident, such as are at Indian native oourt^ witb
official like Ras Merconen, Ras Woly, Waag Choum Gangnl,
Ras Michael, and others of this class to make Abyastoia a
very go-ahead country, and insure entire internal traoqiiilli^,
which a king of kings can never give.
Abyssinia governed by a number of minor princes would
never be a menace to the peace and development of North
Eastern Africa, whereas at present it is very hard to uy
what its future may be : its past has been a troublesome oat.
I was quite sorry to leave lovely Merta with its rhamiing
ruler, he had been so kind to me, and fed up all my servanla^
and given me every thing I could want, and bad durii^ tim
whole time I was there, treated me in a most prioce^
manner. His interest in everything English was unbounded
and Schimper had to sit up late at night with him, explainiif
Whitaker's Almanac, which is a perfect Arabian Nig^rt
story to them in every way, and the figures it contains as to
banking, revenue and commercial statistics seem to them to
be fabulous. They all seem to be highly indignant that ao
little notice is taken of Abyssinia, but they were nearly all
delighted that they were mentioned amongst {the Christians
of Uie world. 1 think the one thing that astonished then
most, was that the Christian religion was not near the largest
in the world, and that Buddhists and Brahmins, who tbey
had not heard about, alone exceeded the Christians of aU
denominations.
I used to make the most of what our Navy was, and the
number of steamers we possessed, as anyone who had been
to Jerusalem used always to confirm what I said, saying:
" Yes, nearly all the steamers on the sea that we saw were
English," I also explained that England being an island,
did not want so many soldiers as other countries, and that
no one could come to us as our fleet would prevent them
(I hope it will in time of need), and that no one need be a
soldier or sailor unless they wanted to, and not even our
Government could make them as yet, that our army and navy
were all volunteers. When asked whether I was a soldier, I
said " no," that I wanted to be one, but was not strong enough,
and I am afraid I said that all our soldiers were now bigger
and stronger than I was. One old man who had seen our
troops in the 1868 expedition said, now he remembered, they
were very big men, and I was quite right, so as he confirmed
YEJJU AND HAS WOLY
3G5
emed to enjoy tea made as wc do in England, and said,
hereafter he should always drink it made as the Engti<ih do.
I was delighted when he told the servant that he was to send
me some down to my camp, as I do not think I had more
than an ounce left, and tlie hair pound that I got here helped
me on for another week. After that I had to drink nothing
but coffee until I arrived at Harar, where 1 got a further
supply from the Indian merchants establUhed at that town.
The Ras seems to be very popular, and governs the
country very well, the taxation beinR a trifle over ten per
cent, in kind, which compares very favourably to the much
higher taxation in the north. The consequence is that a
great many of the northern Christians have come to settle in
the province, and spare land is always being taken up. Every-
one is obliged to put a certain amount of ground under coflTee,
«o no doubt in a few years the revenue will be greatly increased.
The Atebu Gallaa and the Danakils have nearly ceased
their ratdings on the uplands, aa they have been met by
soldiers armed with rifles, and they have lost heavily and
have also been counter-raided, and many of thctr cattle have
been carried off, so they sec that it is not a paying game and
now turn their attentions more to the countr>- round AschangI
and to the north as far as the Amba Alagi pass. This
district seems to be very badly governed by Ras Mangesha,
the same as the whole of Tigrd, and it \s quite a treat to see
■what Ras Woly does for evci>'one, compared to the slipshod
way everything is carried on in the north.
During the time I had my shivering fits with fever, the
Ras was most kind, and he always had a brazier full of
thoroughly dried wild olive wood placed quite close to me.
This wood gives out no smoke worth speaking about, and tlie
embers arc v-ery hot and give out a great warmth, and on
one morning when under my blankets shaking away, he rode
post my tent when on his way to church, and finding I was
ill, immediately sent back to the hou<te for a brarier to put
in my tent. On his return from church the fit had gone
over, and he immediately made me come up to his house and
sit with him, as he said his house was better than my tent
I rcLite the.se little incidents to show what kind people the
Abyssinians can he to perfect strangers, and how much some
travellers have maligned them. I have ncx'cr had cause to
complain of their private conduct towards me on any occa.sion,
and I believe there are very few thoroughly worthless people in
the country, and those perhaps amongst the upper classes
3«8 MODERN ABYSSINIA
medicine that was any good and also a great many ttaliu
ones that be had procured at the battle of Adowa, but be did
not know the use of them, and Schimper, who is a very bir
"bush" doctor, had to write their names in Abyssinian on
the labels and what they were for, and a dose for an adult;
the Ras laughingly said it would be a good thing as thoe
was now less chance of his poisoning some one or peihapa
himself. After saying goodbye, which I did with extreme
regret and a pressing invitation to come and see him agais
the next time I visited Abyssinia, I took my leave and
we rode quickly nearly due south to overtake our baggage
that had had a good two hours start of us.
We crossed two spurs dividing differcnt valleys that ran
at right angles to our road and passed three good med
streams, besides many brooks all running to join tfae Udi
river. The country was very fertile and thickly pc^mlatcd,
and continued so until we arrived early in the afternoon at
Bohoro village in the valley of the Chckosa, and encamped
near the church of Grum Gorgio. Wc were well receivecl b^
the Choum and had no trouble with our rations either for
ourselves or the party of wounded, who have been reduced
in numbers and now only consisted of three, but the wife of
Ras Mangesha's head artilleryman and her servants still
remain with us.
My fever had entirely left me and I was very much better,
and although we had a very heavy dew and camped on the
dryest ground we could find, which was damp, and all our
things were wet in the morning, I had no further access;
As if the Ras had not done enough for me, just as we were
getting ready to leave he sent me a present of a splendid
riding mule, a perfect beauty and very quiet He sent bis
apologies for not presenting it while I was there and would
take no refusal about my not accepting it, so I made
Schimper write a letter of thanks in my name, and gave the
servant that brought it as big a backsheesh as I could afford,
and sent him back rejoicing. I shall never forget the kind-
ness that I received at Ras Woly's hands, and here was a
present of an animal worth at least 80 to 90 dollars at the
coast, and I had nothing to give in return.
Ras Aloula was also another man that gave princely
presents, and many of the other big men arc most lavish in
their hospitality, and I never could make out why the
Abyssinians get the name of being close fisted and stingy,
as all the years I have known them from prince to peasant
YEJ.IU AND RAS WOVY
•369
'. have found them open hearted, cliaritable and kind people ;
course tliere are exceptions, l>ut they are few and far
vccn, and they are generally to be found near the main
lighways where some of the people have had cause to dis-
ist liuropcans.
Supplies were most plentiful at Bohoro, and everything was
aarkably cheap. I bought forty fresh eggs for one salt; at
lacalle 33 bars of salt go for a dollar so this works out at
So eggs for the dollar, and as it now runs with the depre-
iated value of silver about ten to the jC sterling, this coin
M purchase the enormous number of 8800 if one con-
lues die arithmetic sum. enough eggs to last a household for
;yezr. Small chickens could be bought four for a salt or at
rate of 880 for the £, and the small sort of slieep at half
. dollar or about ts. each ; grain was a trifle dearer, but still
rley came to about half a dollar a sack of about 120 Iba.,
less than £1 per ton. If there was a large demand for
rain, the Ycjju province could grow a great deal more than
docs now, as I do not believe a fourth of the available
round is under cultivation, and as a stock-raising country it
3uld be famous as it contains so many water meadows and
ixuriant grass covered uplands.
After leaving Bohoro tlie road wind.<t a great deal but
still keeping in a southcriy direction, with a deviation east
and west of south sometimes as much as twcnt>' ilcgrces.
More spurs are crossed until ASeka Egsow is reached, and
during the march we crossed many more streams running to
the east, carrying the drain^c of the highlands in the neigh-
bourhood of Magdala towards the Golima.
Here as ilaitou is getting further away from Ras Woly,
be has bq^n his <)uarrcls with the peasantry about food ; he
was talked to most seriously by the Kas about ill treating th«
countrymen, and now he tries to get dollars from the Choums
and Chickas instead of food a.t we cannot consume the rations
we arc on, they having been increased in quantity.
My cook has been very ill with fever and quite unable to
work, and to make matters worse Schimpcr's servant, that
can also cook a little, has been ill, and has developed a
disease that made it impossible for him to touch anything
eatable, and what with want of soap nearly everyone has
developed the itch which has evidently spread from some of
the wounded that were left behind at Waldea, and it is a cose
of scratch, scratch, scratch. We have had therefore hardly
anything to eat since leaving Mcrta,and my Abyssinian cook
2 A
370 MODERN ABYSSINIA
has to be watched as he is sometiines half mad, and his last
attempt at cooking ended up in his going to sleep and
allowing everything to burn, and nearly spoiling all the
cooicing utensils, and he put nearly all the knives and Ibrks
and all the spoons into the fire to dean, ajid I am now left
with only one of each and the spoon has only got part of
the bowl. This cook has been entirely spoilt by his ronner
Italian masters, and when [ first got him at Abbi-Addi he
badly wanted to have his dinner with me in the tent, and
when 1 told him to get out he said the Italian officers that
he had served before always allowed him to eat with them.
Day by day from this place he got worse and worse till
Schimper, Hadgi Ali and I had to do the whole of liis work
ourselves, and we were often so tired when we got into camp
that it was late on in the ntght before we got anything to
cat, and when we got into the cold, damp and uninteresting
Wollo and Shoa countries, we often went supperless to bed,
and we often looked back upon our stay at Merta with
pleasure and thought of the many pleasant dinneis we bad
when we were living in the richer northern part of At^snoib
As soon as our tea was done we had to drink cofiee
sweetened with honey, and our food was what the country
produced as we absolutely had nothing European left. Tie
washing soap was ali finished long ago ; we had very little
shipti or native soap left Candles had been finished days ago,
and we had to make them ourselves out of the bees-wax vc
{}ought and clarified ourselves. The wicks were made out of
one or two common strips of Manchester cotton cloth partly
unravelled, and then lightly twisted, melted bees-wax was
poured over the wicks and then allowed to harden, and then
more wax was poured over until the candles were of a con-
venient thickness; they gave a very good light and we were
soon very expert at making them. Schimper at last made
a couple of moulds, but the candles turned out from them
were no superior in light-giving power than those roughly
made, and as they took longer the manufacture of the rougher
ones was continued, and as they eost little we always had
plenty of light in our tents at night. A saucepan to melt
the wax and a spoon for putting it over the wick was all the
machinery required.
Clarifying honey was another amusement, as having no
sugar we had to use it instead : the honey was always sold in
earthenware jars with very small openings, so it was like
buying a pig in a poke, and one could never tell how much
YEJJU AND RAS WOLY
371
clear honej' could be obUined from our purchase, somc-
les not more tlian twenty per cent. The Somalis always stole
the honey on every possible occasion and once or twice they
made themselves very ill by eating too mucli ; having no
corks to clo<ie the bottles, wc had to use the interior of the
maize cob-i instead, and they could be easily pulled out ; on
one occasion I expostulated with Hadgi-Ali about taking tlie
best honey that Schimpcr and I reserved for ourselves, and
he indignantly denied touching it ; the bottle was empty and
full of bees that arc just as great thieves as the Somalis, and
come to cany away the honey they have been robbed of
On asking the Hadgi how the stopper got out. he replied,
"the bees had done it, and had also eaten all the honey."
This was a new natural history fact to me, that bees could
draw corks, and on asking how they did it, he replied that
they stuck their stings into the cob, and then (lapped their
wings so that they drew the stopper out, and if one was not
strong enough, others helped, but they were bound to get the
honey ; he had often seen them doing it : however, curiously
enough, they never did it to our honey afterwards, as it was
always kept in the tent, and on asking the Hadgi why the
bees did not pull the stoppers out of the bottles in the tent,
he said he supposed they were afraid to. If ever I wanted
to get a rise out of him afterwards before Europeans I used
to ask him to tell what the bees did in Yejju.
The road from Aleka Egsow to Meli valley alters con-
^derably as an intervening ridge of high hills separates the
waters of the Golima from that of the Meli, about half way a
very large forest of sycamore fig trees is reached ; this collet
tion of giant trees is most superb, and there are the three dis-
tinct kinds growing together, that hitherto I had not seen in
the country. I n many places no vestige of sun ever penetrates
through the foliage and the undergrowth is thick and nearly
impossible to penetrate ; it is said to be a very feverish place
and no one ever thinks of camping in it at night-time. I
saw plenty of orchids on the branches, but none of them
were in flower, so I cannot say, if there is anything new to
be procured, but doubtless, something worth having might
be found, as Schimpcr's father had never collected in this
district The vegetation was semi-tropical, and from the
Vftlley witllin half a mile the mountains abruptly rose in ever
increasing heights towards Magdala on which nothing but
cold country trees and flowers grew.
After this forest is passed Ras Woi/s territory ceases,
Vn MODEBir ABYSfiUmA
and the district of Witduli-Mclalci la
Ras Midiari, whom I saw ^neat deal of at .
be was an adopted soo of King Jfihannra. and
the GaUa tro(^ at that time^ ima formed tbe Uwk t
Witdiali-Hdaki is Qu: most nacthera district of&Wllb
Galla country. Just after leavii^ the roteat we sot iato a
less wooded country, the majority d tibe trees mIik At
wanza all in full bloom with thor lai^ tmaaes «f
flowers, round which the bees snanned. The uuuilUy '.
was lovely, and the wanza trees in flower ace qidte ai
some as any English horao-dicstnat o€ iriiica titey
one.
While riding quietly alone with mysyc^ a p-nfaiit
with a lance came in front cd me and stopped mjr and^ all
tJurew himself on the ground and coounenced to ciy. He
asked me why did my servants steal, and why I robbed pow
people. I was of course very tnd^nan^ and aaid adttcrl
not my servants did anjrthing of the sort, and on eaquiiy ICaal
that our escort had stolen a favourite goat bdoogiof tofla
man's children, and had s^d it was for me The two aoUtal
that had stolen the goat came up with it draggii^ it aloBK
I made them undo the strii^ by which theylud aecoflodi
and on the peasant calling the goat, it immediately ran bp to
him, and put its fore feet on bis chest, and be^an bleating
there could be no doubt of the ownership and the animal baa^
a pet. These vile soldiers wanted to eat a tame animal Ube
this. I told the peasant that he must not think that EngUA-
men did such things, and asked him to remain until Halloa
came up. I asked for the punishment of the soldiers, whick
he refused, and one of the guilty said that Hailou bad
told him to take a goat whenever he could, so I bad a letter
written to Ras Woly, explaining what a rascal Hailou wa^
and that if anything had been stolen by my escort in bil
country, that I was not responsible. To the peasant I gave
a couple of coloured handkerchiefs for his wife, and be
returned as pleased as possible, the goat gambolii^ ronad
him.
We encamped shortly after this, and in the evening tbe
peasant came back to see me with a big jar of fresh milk and
some ^gs, and brought his pretty little girl about seven years
old to see the Englishman who did not steal her goat ; she
was timid at first but soon made friends, and as I had a dollar
with a hole in it, which no one would take in the marketi^ I
strung it on her blue cord round her neck. This man lived
YEJJIT AND RAS WOLY
373
light miles further back on the road, so he had a
mile walk just to bring me a Uttlc offering Tor
returning him bis own property, wrongfully taken away. I
could give many instances of how (grateful the peasantr>- arc
when they are treated only fairly, and how easy they are to
get on with. If I had resented as some people would have
aonc, the armed peasant stopping me, there would no doubt
have been a row, and I might have got speared and the man
killed, and then perhaps a paragraph in the papers would
have appeared, that 1 had been killed quarrelling with the
langeroiLs inhabitants of the country', whereas, what 1 have
n of the Abysstnians if one treats them honourably they
are most easy to get on with, and the only danger is from
rascally servants and escorts.
I am soiry to say, however, I have met with people who
call themselves Englishmen and gentlemen, who treat the
natives with contempt or famiharity, both extremes being
perfectly wrong, and who are always objecting to some
damned dirty nigger, as they call the natives, coming near
them, or others will .show them monkey tricks or play
practical jokes, all of which only make them lose dignity, and
lower them in the eyes of the inhabitants. No man ought to
pioneer unless he has a good temper, and unless he makes up
his mind to treat the people he comes across in an honourable
and straightforward manner. Without his doing the latter it
is impossible for him to know the people of the countrj- he
passes through, and latterly I have read some accounts of
travels that have been received by the public at home, with*
out one murmur of protest, and tlie travellers have been well
received, whereas tJiey ought to be cxpo:wd, and strict orders
ought to lie given by our home authorities, thiit ihey should
never again pass through territory under KngUsh influence
I have the greatest contempt for two sorts of individuals.
The one is the traveller who goes into a land and ill treats
the natives who will not retaliate, as their only means is by
killing their oppressor, which they have no wish to do ; and
the other is the so-called sportsman, who kills animals just to
say how many of each sort he has killed, and shoots females
and young, and leaves their rotting carcases on the ground
without utili.ting a particle of them. It is no use mentioning
I names, some of these gentlemen by birth are known, and I
I only hope steps will be taken to prevent them molesting the
I two and four-ieggcd animals of Africa in future.
I After the incident of stealing the goat, I told Haitou and
tr* XOIXBX ABYS5IXEA
rasT acv I i^nic. 3cc mx xw^ snr I ■"■^riaf ^xak to all
=te jeac 3is sn^Eif lod a^ Mr nod a be aold ca ■! yitf,
33 I bad. ^jca^ .-i-iTji^ X j^ 3ie m Adise-Ab^a shoe I
ouui JCBC "i"j?^T- |e£ TTfTT— . as aise was ''■t-^^— to be soew-
coe I £Uf7 zier? vnc wzaiil i^ 3ie &ax« aum^. Hoe-
a^zr. -v?=t :3£ gjrrocn at rw3 ac cne KneadlT- adAea. I
* -*" '^ x.'S'iLV' c^m "''***^ Bm voiuc luac gitvc ^^ "' a puticx
oC Srjod e^irept on *o«uk' occamats. sad I W3$ werj-plened
to Kc tsar ±ev- ten- -anea ^c IftrSe or ■■«■■*■ j-g. bath
in tiK Wouo ouauy 2111I in. Scusa. ixasS. Adeac-AJoabt was
lyacfied. Tse '^oarrEis buanjuL tae pexantry and HaOoa
were ot daily Gcn^ncccs, ixn d»- diet oot knrt me ■ 4e
least, and I onlv laii^gi&ed wfaea cfur goc the want of it
Hie pieasire of trzveilisg was eiRtreiy spoilt, and os
mardies woe sczriT alwavs oa tne main raad to distaiC
villages in order to get stppUcs for tbe escort. One tUlg
it gave me more chance of seeing tbc countiy than if 1
bad stuck to tbc cscal highway generally tia^ei&ed wfceo
going from north to sooth. The chief towns, however, we
had to visit, and we had also to pass the different poA
where customs dues are levied, as 00 one is allowed to
take the other paths unless provided with a special pass.
Travellers often complain of delay in Ab>-ssinia, but
no European is alloned to enter into the country without
the permUsion of the ruler, nor can he leave without a pa&
In Admiral Hewett's mission to Abj-ssinia, his officers w«e
prevented from lea^nng certain points «-ithout the requiied
document, and no bribe or persuasion would make the
official let them proceed until he had received a written
order. There can be no doubt that this prevents Europeans
spying out the country, and as all frontier officials have this
order given them, they are perfectly right to stop people
either coming in or going out unless they have proper
credentials ; no sentry allows any one to go past him with-
out the password for the day, and still Europeans complaia
about an unnecessary delay because they have not their
papers in order.
CHAPTER XVII
WOLLO COUNTRY AND THE GALLAS
OUR camping place was at the head waters of the Meli
river at the upper end of the Meli valley, not far from
a very pretty little lake. This sheet of water is about a
mile long by at>out four hundred yards broad, and looks like
the oval crater of an old extinct volcano, and is surrounded
by very high land except near the exit which forms the
main sources of the Meli. The lake takes its name from
the village of Golvo, perched on a small isolated table-
land. This village, although very small, boasts a church of
San Michael, a very nice little building situated in a pretty
grove of very large Wanza trees, and a large village green
on which a market is held every Monday, it being a great
interchanging place for the products of semi-tropical Ycjju
and the colder Wollo country.
Above the village green is a Mohamedan cemetery, and
from one side of it there is a sheer drop to the lake of over
three hundred feet ; sitting on this cliff a very pretty view
is obtained of the lake and its surroundings ; several springs
arc situated on the side nearest the mountains to the cast,
these run across the Bat for about fort>- yards, and enter
the lake ; the lawn that these springs water is a beautiful
vivid green, then a small shore of white sand and then a
margin of shallow water, and then the dark irMligo blue
of the deep water. Several isolated sycamore fig trees of
large size hung their branches over the lake on the east
side ; on the north there was a fringe of reeds and then
scrub and Wanza trees on the shelving side of the mountain ;
the west end of the lake wa-i shallow, and also shaded 1^
enormous sycamores, whereas the southern side was partly
bordered by cultivated fields and sloping land leading up
to the abrupt sided plateau, whereon was situated the
market place and village of Golvo with its trcc-surroimded
cburch-
1 sat watching the fish riang in the water beneath me,
sn
Sn MODERN ABYSSINIA
the escort that I should have nothing more to do widi them ;
they knew I could not run away and I should speak to all
the head men myself and ask for food to be sold to my party,
as I had enough dollars to last me to Adcse-Ababa what I
could most likely get more^ as there was certain to be some-
one I knew there who would let me have mon^. Here-
after, with the exception of two of the friendly soldiers, I
had nothing to do with Hailou or the escort^ and pitched
camp away from them, and would not give them a particle
of food except on special occasions, and 1 was very pleased
to see that they very often got little or nothing, bodi
in the Wollo country and in Shoa until Adese-Ababa was
reached. The quarrels between the peasantry and Hailoa
were of daily occurrence, but they did not hurt mc in tbe
least, and I only laughed when they got the worst of it
The pleasure of travelling was entirely spoilt, and our
marches were nearly always off the main road to distant
villages in order to get supplies for the escort. One thu^
it gave me more chance of seeing the country than if I
had stuck to the usual highway generally traversed iriien
going from north to south. The chief towns, however, «e
had to visit, and we had also to pass the different posts
where customs dues are levied, as no one is allowed to
take the other paths unless provided with a special pass.
Travellers often complain of delay in Abyssinia, but
no European is allowed to enter into the country withotd
the permission of the ruler, nor can he leave without a pus.
In Admiral Hewett's mission to Abyssinia, his officers wee
prevented from leaving certain points without the required
document, and no bribe or persuasion would make the
ofHcial let them proceed until he had received a written
order. There can be no doubt that this prevents Europeans
spying out the country, and as all frontier officials have this
order given them, they are perfectly right to stop peo{de
either coming in or going out unless they have propo
credentials ; no sentry allows any one to go past him with-
out the password for the day, and still Europeans complaiB
about an unnecessary delay because they have not their
papers in order.
CHAPTER XVII
WOLLO COUNTRY AND THE GALLAS
OUR camping pliice was at the head waters of the Meli
river at the upper end of the Meli valley, not far from
a very pretty little lake. This sheet of water is about a
mile long by about four hundred yardii broad, aixi looks like
the oval crater of an old extinct volcano, and is surrounded
by vcr>' high land except near the exit which forms the
main sources of the Meli. The lake takes its name from
the village of Golvo, perched on a small isolated table-
land. This village, although very small, boasts a church of
San Michael, a very nice little building situated in a pretty
grove of very lai^c Wanz-a trees, and a large village green
on which a market is held every Monday, it being a great
interchanging place for the products of semi-tropical Ycjju
and the colder Wollo country.
Above the village green is a Mohamedan cemetery, and
from one side of it there is a sheer drop to the lake of over
three hundred feet ; sitting on this cliff a ver>' pretty view
is obtained of the lake and its surroundings ; several springs
arc situated on the side nearest the mountains to the cast,
these run across the flat for about forty yards, and enter
the lake ; the lawn that these springs water is a beautiful
vivid green, then a small shore of white s^md and then a
margin of shallow water, and then the dark indigo blue
of the deep water. Several isolated sycamore fig trees of
large sixe hung their branches over the lake on the east
side ; on the north there was a fringe of reeds and then
scrub and Wanza trees on the shelving side of the mountain ;
th« west end of the lake was shallow, and also shaded by
enormous sycamores, whereas the southern side was partly
bordered by cultivated fields and sloping land leading up
to the abrupt sided plateau, whereon was situated the
market place and village of Golvo with its tree-surrounded
churcb.
I sat watcbii^ the fish rising in the water beneath me,
m
876 MODERN ABYSSINIA
the grebes, «>ots and water hem swimming about; lod
several broods of wild ducks about the size of a podiani
tiiat I examined carefully through my blnocalan, were
quite new to m& I was so taken up witii the view and
nature that I had not noticed a storm coming np^ and a
loud thunderclap startled me out of my reverie and befcR
I could get bade to my camp, a little over half«4nile eC
I was drenched to the skin, which brought on another
bout of fever. How it did rain and thmider, and it ms
late on in the evening before the storm went over, and then
a dead calm came on and the cold towards moniiDg wis
very great, as we had come up considerably since leandg
Aleka ^;sow. We had a beautiful momii^ after tlie ni^
and the francolin were calling all round lu^ and pented
on the trees and rocks sunning themselves, as tlie
growth and crops were all wet after the night^s rain.
As the escort did not turn up from thie villaee^ I .
without them after writing a letter to Ras Hiui^ to
I was coming and could I visit him ; I had an idea I
meet him at Boru Meida, one of the chief towns of hll
govemorate, two marches from here I turned due eaS^
as throu^ my glasses I could see the main road aboaft
three miles off in the valley, and the Meli river nuudw
on the further side of it, and with my map and cMnptt^l
did not want Hailou to show me the way; he hated tar
map and he wanted to know what Europeans wanted win
these things on countries that did not belong to theflL
The names on the Italian maps are misleading, as la^
districts are sometimes called after insignificant villages and
vice versa. We are now travelling in the district of WitchaU
Rutamba, governed by Fituan Taferi, who is away widi
the Ras.
We followed the main road, and came across some
soldiers going south to meet some of the wounded. One
of them was the brother of the youth with one 1^ who has
been with us since MacaJle, and whom I have done all I can
for. As he was just behind me, I waited to see the meeti%,
and I thought they never would have done kissing otoi
other. The elder brother was crying at seeing his younger
brother with only one leg, and all at once the elder brother
made a rush at me. Luckily I got on my mule in tim^
so he could only catch hold of my leg. This was kissed
and slobbered over and dirtied with the grease off his hair,
and I had to ask him to leave off as I thought his brother
COUNTRY AND CATJ.AS 35
uld like some more, and I had had ample to repay what I
had done. However the poor fellow meant well, and he did
everything he could to prove his gratitude for many days
after.
In the afternoon wc passed the hot springs of Jari,
situated about two miles to the west of the road, where Ras
Michael had just left for Magdala, where he was i^oing on
business. The country opens out here, and three streams of
fair size run from the west to join the Mcli, the one coming
from Jari being even here, two miles off from the springs,
quite tepid. We passed a great numbcrof people to-tlay going
^^ Grana, a big market town in Yejju, just to the eastt of the
^■&ad we came by. Grana market day is on Tliursdayi),
^Bolvo on Mon<lnys. The former is by far the most import-
^^t of the two. as it i.s visited by Danakils from the low
^country, besides Yejju and WoUo people ; it is noted for its
lat^c cattle- market
Here, after following the Mcli for about three miles, we
went off tlic road to the village of Woha Eilou, a property
belonging to Queen Taitou, the wife of King Mcnelek. Tlic
man in chaise was very civil, and gave us everytiiing that he
had of the best, besides a jar of very fine tcdj. When we
arrived it was raining hard, and he put Schimper and I up in
his house, and the female portion of the cstaMi^hment crowded
round us to have a long look at the Englishman. Next
morning I was shown over the estate, which was well cared
for and produced a ^at quantity of corn, and a good deal
of butter was made. Besides these two very necessary articles,
three houses were full of bee hives, and the honey taken from
the wanxa flowers being greatly prized, as being of a white
colour makes very clear tedj. This honey is sent to Adese-
I Ababa for the queen's use.
Our march from Woha Eilou was again along the main
road in the same Meli valley, our course being slightly east
of south to turn an out-jutting spur that runs nearly south-
I ca-st of Magdala, and continues until Hatk lake is reached.
■^his district is called until Halk is come to Aforcordat
^RmbazcL The majority of it is very fertile, with good
^HfBter meadows and many irrigation channels, which give a
^^ugc supply of water even in the dryest of seasons. The
weather was terrible until wc began to rise the spur, driving
rain and Scotch mist and a cold wind blowing from the
lOuth. At the top of the rise from the valley the wind
I suddenly ceased, and the sun came out very stroi^, which
878 MODERN ABYSSINIA
soon dried our wet clothes, and we b^an to get
On getting to the top of the spur, the village oi Aikeen ii
reached, from which a beautiful view of lake Halk is obtaiae^
situated in an amphitheatre of ru^ed mountains with joaipo^
clad sides. The lake is about six miles long by about t*B
broad and veiy deep, no doubt the crater of some eztiod
volcano.
There are several small islets and one b^ high idnl
divided from the shore by a channel some three hundRd
yards in breadth ; on this island is the church of MiriMi
Deva, and a monastery, with a few other buildings, inhabftBd
by the monks ; there is also a little cultivation, quite enoagh
to feed the occupiers of the island. No women are alkmei
to set foot on the island, the same as in many of Ikt'
Abyssinian monasteries on the high ambas, and the AduM
that spend their lives on the island never have the duact
of falling by the machinations of some dusky Eve.
I tried hard to be allowed to get permission to viut Ac
place, but Hailou would not let me, so we proceeded aloogtit.
winding Arkeesa pass which runs round a narrow deepral^.
down which a stream runs to the lake, the end of the vaUqi'
finishes up with a cliff down which a tiny waterfall leaps bom
ledge to ledge. Many varied and pretty views of the lakem
obtained from this pass, and the scenery is very grand. Wbik
we passed, the frequent rain storms, with intervals of bri^
sunshine, gave many varied lights and shades to the landsc^ie^
and at one time a double rainbow resting over the lake thit
reflected its colours added to the beauty of the scene. We
turned sharp to the south south-west after finishing the pax
and went up hill along a narrow grass valley with high
mountains on each side dotted over with woods and coppictt
of juniper trees all festooned with the "old man's beard*
moss. It was bitterly cold, and we floundered along tfaroi^
deep black peaty soil, the road always slightly rising; 1
should not like to say how many snipe we put up, and the
constant " scape " " scape " when they rose, put me in mind of
warmer days in Ceylon, when I used to enjoy the snipe-
shootii^ and make big bags ; every valley must have an atd,
and at last we arrived at the further extremity covered widi
mud, cold and hungry.
Here we left behind us the drainage to the east, and a
quarter of a mile on the flat, the upper valley of the Bashilo
drainage lay in front of us. This river first runs north-wot
and then takes a turn to the south and joins the Blue Nil^
WOTJ.O COUNTRY AND GATXAS 379
he direct drainage to the Blue Nile proper ts not met with
"till stmie (iisUnce furtlier on. On one sicle of the valley to
the west is the large town of Uoru Metda, built on the side of
the mountain and covering a large area ; it is surrounded by
aittivatcd fields on three sides, and the other is open to a
lai^c village green, which gives place to a large marsh that
takes up the centre of the valley, a line of gra^ fields and
cultivation takes up the other side, and then on a fairly well
wooded ridge is situated the pretty little nltage of lioru
Sandatch, where we camped and remained the whole of the
oext day. The view farther M>uth was blocked by undulating
downs witJ) very little timber, and in the middle distance was the
rather broken-up lower down land of Dissei ; the large fortified
hiil and granaries of Dissei being due south of our camp,
I was asked by Hailou to camp the other side of the
valley at Boru Meida, two miles to the west, which I declined
to do, as I had no wish to be near a big town, and I could
sec everything I wanted, and I doubled whether we should
be able to find a cleaner and more sheltered spot than what
I had chosen. I sadly wanted a rest, the two rainy days
had dirtied evcr^'thing, and the last bit of mud floundering
into this place had put the final touches on everything.
Schimi>er having a female relation belonging to his mother's
family living at Boru Meida, he went off" to visit her ; I
suggested that he should ask her to get our things washed,
fortunately we were enabled to put everything in order, and
had we not stopped here 1 do not know what we should
have done, as on taking stock and cleaning up I found that
I had nothing much left — tea spoilt, quinine broken, salts
nearly all spoilt, and very few left fit to purchase an>'thing
with ; our money being dollars we could not afford to spend
one every time we wanted to purchase something, and a
dollar's worth of eggs, chickens or food, was a great deal more
than we required ; and although we had a good many mules
with us, two to three cwts. of barley, that is about an equivalent
to this coin, was a great deal too much, and necessitated extra
transport or overloading our mules.
We managed to lay in a stock of good coflfce, plenty of
clean honey, we purified our bar salt, got a lot of red pepper,
ground plenty of good white wheat flour, cooking butter and
a lot of lentils, and what with meat that we could purchase
CD route, our commissariat was reduced to these things only ;
our oook was still useless, so SchJmper and his servant HadgE
bAli and 1 did the cooking together ; the fare was plain and
380
MODERN ABYSSINIA
wholesome, and as long as we kept welt and had hunger for
sauce, wc could not starve.
While Schimpcr was away seeing hU relation, I went
down to the marsh to see what I could get ; the geese were
flying about and calling to each other with their peculiar
har&h cry of honk-honk, so I knew I should be able to get
some of them if everything else failed. The marsh near the
sides was not more than eighteen inches deep, and round
the margin was lined with rushes, reeds, and the blue, white,
purple, and yellow iris with other water-plants, and plenty of
large forget -me-not. I soon came to an open pond covered
with birds of all sorts, but all out of range, so I ^^t down in
the reeds and waited ; there were ducks in all stages of
growth, from full fledged to tiny little tlu'ngs just hatched,
they were very tame and soon swam up to witliin fifteen
yards of me ; soon about twenty came from another pond and
settled in the grass, I gave them two barrels and got five,
and on the report of the gun, hundreds and hundreds of birds
rose out of the marsh, geese, ducks of many sorts, pewits and
other plover. b«idcs herons, bitterns, cranes, ibio and egrets.
I watched them flying about for a long time, and they again
settled quite close, but as I had enough for the pot and I
never care to kill for killing Hake, I picked up my ducks,
which two small boys who had been watching me with
curiosity carried for me, and I walked back to the tent ;
shooting two plump snipe on my way back. Snipe were
very numerous and of three sorts, the common, the >ack. and
the painted ; the latter is, I believe more of the rail speciei
than the snipe, as it swims remarkably well.
I remember the first time I saw it swimming was In
Ceylon, when a pair of old ones with three small ones that
could not fly were crossing the Wafkw.dla river; I bagyed
the old birds, and caught the three young ones, and brought
them alive into Galla and after showing them to an oflicer tn
the Ro>'al Artillery who was a very good naturalist, we let
them loose in the fort ditch ; I have often seen in print it
doubted that the painted snipe will take to the water, but I
have seen them on several occasions.
Wc had a capital dinner that night, and I mention It u tt
was about the last one we had till we arrived at Adoe-
Ababa, and the last fresh green peas, beans and new potatocf
that we obtained until we left Adcne-Ababa ; hitherto wc had
had ihcxe excellent vegetables nearly daily Hince arriving at
Axum from Erithrca. Duck and green peas, freah lentil
4
4
WOLLO COUNTRY AND GALLAS S81
soup, snipe and new potatoes, and stewed mutton with
young beans forminf; the menu ; we ended up with hot punch
matie from good native spirit sent us by Schimper's relative,
witli honey instead of sugar and fresh limes, most warming
as the night was bitterly cold,
Boni Mcidn market is held ever>* Saturday, and it is a
very large one and there are several resident Moslem and
Christian merchants who buy up the small parcclit of coffee
and beeswax brought in by the peasants from the sur-
rounding country, and the ostrich feathers and eggs, and
sometimes a little ivory brought from the Danakil country;
thfsc latter products are exchanged for grain, and cotton
cloths manufactured in this town and the surrounding
villages from cotton grown in Ycjju.
The road from Boru Meida to Velan, our next camping
ground, is slightly west of south for the first part, and then
south, south-west ; it runs through a succession of valleys
separated from each other by nearly bare grass and barley
covered hills, witli only small clumps of trees round the
villages ; the bottoms of all the valleys arc marsh and water
meadow, crowded with ducks of many kinds, geese, snipe,
and other water-loving birds, and the country for small game
is a real sportsman's paradise.
During the early part of the day, we met hundreds of
people with larj^e quantities of live stock bound to Boru
Meida market, and a servant of Queen Taitou's with many
mules laden with presents from her for her niece Mrs
Mangesha, the rains having prevented the wedding presents
from being sent before. We also met a choum of the
country between Entiscio and Adowa, who has the old city
of Yeha in his district Thu man had been dismis.<icd from
his position by Ras M-ingcsha. and had appealed to King
Menelek, who had rc-instai!cd him. I had met him bclbre
and he was a great friend of Schimper's, and from him wc
got the news uat Ras Aioula, Ras Mangesha, Ras Wo)y,
and the Wa^ Choum had to send a force to punish the
Azcbus for their cruelty to the King's troops.
There can be no doubt that they are far from pleasant
people, and not only do they kill Abyssinians but white
people ; they murdered two of Ras VVoly's Itilian prisoners
and castrated a third, who now has to work for them at all
jobs ; however. I should not mind visiting their
of evcryon "■ having failed. I have met
M-g but a bit wild, and I was
882 MODERN ABYSSINIA
told by them th^ they would take me to dwlr eaaabfi
whether I came back would be another question. Thqr m
nasty nnghbours, but then their nei^boun are nti^ t»
them, so the fault is most likely on both sides.
I here received a letter from Raa Michael aayiag how
sorry be was not to have seen me, and that he had fipfrlff'
me a week before, but as I had not arrived he had to leave fc(
the Ma«dala district on business. He had given orden tttf I
was to have everything I wanted, but he said no irad dioat
my escort and Hailou. I had the pleasure of seeiiw Huloa
revised food by the villagers, and here, near Raa Hichad^
mivate bouse, he can get nothing. This establishmest be-
loi^ng to Ras Michael is exactly the same as that beluugiiic
to Ras Wcily, but the hill on which it is placed is moR
nisged and better fortified ; it is situated in a nanmr g/mm
vt^y with only a few trees that could be counted on the
fingers of two h^ds, opening on to the latter valley of Gendo^
ano^er of these long marsh and water meadow Uti of
country with two b^ mountains at the east end well woodei
with juniper.
At the village of Velan I saw the only garden of poppin
that I have come across in Abyssinia, the flower, a iur
white papery one with a lat^ head ; the man wfaom B
belonged to was a bit of a native doctor and used the
heads as medicine, but I could get nothing out of him hov
he originally got the poppy or what he used it for, tiicae
were his secrets and he was not inclined to give himsdl
away by being communicative. Both at Velan and our not
camping-place at Geri-Maida we had nothing but rain aad
it was bitterly cold, and although the road was more or hem
b(^, we were glad to get off and walk to keep oursdva
warm, and I was none too warm walking even with mf
heavy ulster on. The country is a fine grazing district hit
very monotonous, with nothing but barley and a little wheit
in the shape of crops. Horses, mules, and black-homed
cattle and black sheep everywhere, it tieing a great stock-
raising place. The scenery, uninteresting, bold, open and
rolling down lands, with big chains of higher hills and
isolated mountains nearly bare of trees, with the exceptioB
of a few patches of juniper and immense kousso trees witk
their Indian red trunks.
The people are nearly all Mabomedans or profess to be
of this religion, but they are all indescribably dirty with
filthy clothes, it being too cold to wash and both soap or itt
WOLLO COUNTRY AND GALLAS 383
rac
Vsha
»
ubstitutc the shipti unknown- The men are a fine race,
thiclc>sct and large-limbed with plenty of hair about them, a
great comparison to the northerners who have little hair
either on their faces or bodies; the women are round, fat,
angraceful, broad-buttocked, Utrge-stemed, coarse, ugly things,
and about as unlovely as the female sex possibly could be,
but at the .tame time good-tcmpcrcd and always laughing.
Their mouths being great gashes across their faces filled with
wonderfully even white teeth, but their dirt and smell arc
simply unbearable; no beauty is to be looked for south of
"'ejju, except amongst the Amharans or true Abysainians,
id I cannot make out how the eastern and western Gallas
can belong to the same race, as the women of the western
Gallas arc flight, graceful little things with pretty hands and
feet, and the eastern have large feet and hands of the most
hideous shape, and their hair is also of a much coarser
description. The eastern men and women have that horrible
racial foetor of the negro, while in the western it is entirely
king.
The houses in the Wollo Gatia country have changed in
shape from those of the north, and arc oblong with a pair of
flat sides ; they arc dirtier and not nearly so well made. The
last village with a proper hedge or fortification round it was
that of Arkcssa near Ilaik, here they only had a slight ditch
and a turf or low stone wall, no protection against man, but
sufficient to keep the animals from straying; this sliowed
that the country through which we were passing was a peace-
ful one. and no raids were feared from the low country as
farther north.
Geri Mctda was a particularly cold place, and on the
BUmmits of the hills wc again saw the peculiar gevara or
lobelia, and the fauna was altogether of an Alpine nature.
Soon after leaving Gcri Mcida, a large tract of country is
reached, thickly wooded with the kousso tree, hitherto it has
only been in isolated groups, this country owinjj to its height
and dampness docs not evidently suffer from the grass fires
that sweep over the downs at lower elevations. Soon after
passing this kousso forest, the road leads over a piece of
bitter cold wind-swept land, where wheat i.s not grown,
owing to the fro.*its that sometimes occur when the wheat
is in flower, and that spoil the crop. The road then leads
down into a better and more fertile country, in which many
lai^jcr clefts are found ; these being sheltered from the wind
have a much warmer climate, and contain trees, shrubs and
384 MODERN ABYSSINIA
plants that will not grow in the open. The grass here improRi
and we passed many splendid herds of the laige blade cattle
for which the Wollo country is so famed, and vast flodo of
large black sheep with long and heavy fleeces. These animal*
in shape and size are very like those of Central -Arabia tiut
are brought to Mecca when the Hadj falls in the cold seasoo,
but during the summer and hot months these aninuib caonat
travel, as they die in large numbers from the heat Whf
is it that these class of sheep are only found in cold Centnl
Arabia, and in the perhaps colder Wollo country ?
At Adis Amba the district of Dedjatch Imma the coontiy
begins to improve, and a church is again seen, the last one
was near Ras Michael's place at Velao ; here a mixed
population is found, and the houses and gardens are better;
about an hour's march from Adis Amba, the road divida
at one of these clefts or ravines ; the one on the west side
is the high road to the south, and the one on the tut
to Adis Amba where it ends. To the east of Adis Amba b
a fairly high mountain, and the drainage from its east ^dde
runs to the Danakil country, and from the west to the Koe
Nile ; the canyons formed by the drainage cannot be passed
by human beings, so Adis Amba district is entirely cut off
from the south, and the only road round is throi^h Ac
Danakil country, and then by a very bad and precipitoni
path.
Dedjatch Imma's house is built on the edge of the canyon
and the high road is only about seven hundred to eight
hundred yards distant on the opposite side, but to get from
his house to the high road, it takes over an hour and a half, is
the bottom of the valley has to be followed for a long time
before there is a path that leads to the top on the other side
Dedjatch Imma was away on business, but as soon as i
got to his house, his people sent away a messenger to sajr
that I had arrived. We had a most terrible storm, rain and
sleet and thunder and lightning that came on about five
o'clock in the afternoon, and lasted till ten o'clock, when it
ceased and a dead calm came on, and not a cloud was to be
seen, and the stars in the black heavens looked of an un-
naturally lai^e size. Sleep was impossible owing to the
cold and the dogs chasing the hyenas ; one of the latter must
have evidently had a very bad cold as he was very hoarse
and the Abyssinian servants said he was a " budha " or evil
spirit ; while others said it was a man that had taken the
shape of a hyena, so he could enjoy a meal of carrion or dead
WOLLO COimTRY AND GALLAS 385
man. As I couUl not sleep I sat and listened to their stories
which arc most amusing, but they show a great deal of
imafination and superstition.
The budha or evil spirit that attacks Mjme of the young
women, nearly always ugly virgins or hysterical and plain
looking girls that men will never notice, is to my mind the
greatest fraud of all their superstitions. Everyone has
written about it, and I am afraid that they have drawn a
good deal on their imagination, and the missionaries who
have visited the country have perhaps been quite as bigoted
as the people they have tried to describe. I believe that
these peculiar (its which the women have, when they do all
sorts of filthy things, is nothing more than hysteria ; many
women even in civilised countries are not responsible for their
actions when suffering from these complaints, and people who
are inclined to believe in the miraciiIoiLi, take for granted what
the ignorant peasantry .say. I have seen .icveral young women
suAering from the "budha," and a bucket of cold water that
I have thrown over them, and a good smacking from my
servant, has soon sent the devil away, and the only after
cfTcct has been that they have been sulky, because they were
not made much of.
At an early hour I sent my luggage on, as it had to
return and go by the hi^h road, and waited for Dedjatch
Imma, who had sent me a message to say he was returning
and wished to sec me, and while waiting for him I saw five
Italian prisoners, who were all walking arm and arm, and
singing, and seemed thoroughly happy j they seemed surprised
to see a Huropcan, and they had a long chat with me. They
had no complaints to make, except Uiat they had little or
nothing to do. They spoke most highly of licdjatch Imma,
who gave them as much to cat and drink as they possibly
could want ; they were all smoking native grown tobacco
out of pipes they had manufactured themselves, and tlieir
clothes were made out of native-made cloth. One had hts
helmet left, the others had country straw hats which were all
covered with long tail feathers from the cocks they had eaten,
and by the number they had in their hats, they must have
been getting tired of chicken. The luggage having left, I
could not give them paper and pen and ink to write to their
friends, but 1 took their names, and reported them as well.
Soon after Dedjatch Imma rode up, and he immediately
asked me if 1 thought his prisoners looked well, and he said
he intended, if he could, to make them as fat as he was. The
211
872 MODERN ABYSSINIA
and the district of Witchali-Melalci is entered, belonging to
Ras Michael, whom I saw a great deal of at Adowa in 18S4;
he was an adopted son of King Johannes, and commanded
the Galla troops at that time, who formed the king's escort.
Witchali-Melaki is the most northern district of the Wollo
Galla country. Just after leaving the forest we got into a
less wooded country, the majority of the trees being tiie
wanza all In full bloom with their large trusses of wldbt
flowers, round which the bees swarmed. The countiy here
was lovely, and the wanza trees in flower are quite as band-
some as any English horse-chestnut of which they remind
one.
While riding quietly along with my syce, a peasant armed
with a lance came in front of me and stopped my mule, and
threw himself on the ground and commenced to cry. He
asked me why did my servants steal, and why I robbed poor
people. I was of course very indignant, and said neitiber I
nor my servants did anything of the sort, and on enquiry I found
that our escort had stolen a favourite goat belonging to the
man's children, and had said it was for me. The two soldien
that had stolen the goat came up with it dragging it along.
I made them undo the string by which they bad secured i^
and on the peasant calling the goat, it immediately ran lip to
him, and put tts fore feet on his chest, and began bleatii^
there could be no doubt of the ownership and the aninnal being
a pet. These vile soldiers wanted to eat a tame animal like
this. I told the peasant that he must not think that English-
men did such things, and asked him to remain until Hailou
came up. I asked for the punishment of the soldiers, which
he refused, and one of the guilty said that Hailou had
told him to take a goat whenever he could, so I had a letter
written to Ras Woly, explaining what a rascal Hailou was,
and that if anything had been stolen by my escort in hts
country, that 1 was not responsible. To the peasant I gave
a couple of coloured handkerchiefs for his wife, and be
returned as pleased as possible, the goat gamboling round
him.
We encamped shortly after this, and in the evening the
peasant came back to see me with a big jar of fresh milk and
some eggs, and brought his pretty little girt about seven yean
old to see the Englishman who did not steal her goat ; she
was timid at first but soon made friends, and as 1 had a dollar
with a hole in it, which no one would take in the markets, I
strung it on her blue cord round her neck. This man lived
YE.TJU AND RAS WOLY
373
e^ht miles further back on the TO.-11), so he had ft
fxteen mtte walk just to bring mc a little offering for
turning him his own property, wrongfully taken away. I
>uld give many inHtanccs of bow grateful the peasantry are
'when they arc treated only fairly, and how easy they arc to
get on with. If I had resented as some people would have
done, the armed peasant stopping me, there would no doubt
have been a row, and I might have got speared and the man
killed, and then perhaps a paragraph in the papers would
have appeared, that I had been killed quarrelling with the
dangerous inhabitants of the country, whereas, what I have
seen of the Abyssinians if one treats them honourably they
are most easy to get on with, and the only danger is from
rascally servants and escorts.
I am sof7>' to say, however, I have met with people who
call themselves Englishmen and gentlemen, who treat the
natives with contempt or familiarity, both extremes being
perfectly wrong, and who are always objecting to some
damned dirty nigger, a:$ they call the natives, coming near
them, or others will show them monkey tricks or play
practical jokes, all of which only make them lose dignity, and
lower them in the eyes of the inhabitants. No man ought to
pioneer unless he has a good temper, and unless he makes up
his mind to treat the people he comes across in an honourable
and straightforward manner. Without his doing the latter it
is impossible for him to know the people of the countr>- he
passes through, and latterly I have read some accounts of
travels that have been received by the public at home, with-
out one murmur of protest, and the travellers have been well
received, whereas they ought to be exposed, and strict orders
ought to be given by our home authorities, that ihey should
never again pass through territory under Knglish influence.
I have the greatest contempt for two sorts of individuals.
The one is the traveller who goes into a land and ill treats
the natives who will not retaliate, as their only means is by
Icilling their oppressor, which they have no wish to do ; and
the other is the so-called sportsman, who kills animals just to
say how many of each sort he has killed, and shoots females
and young, and leaves their rotting carcases on the ground
without utilising a panicle of them. It is no use mentioning
names, some of these gentlemen by birth are known, and 1
only hope stq)s will be taken to prevent Uicm molesting the
two and four-legged animals of Africa in future.
After the incident of stealing the goat, I told Hailou and
388
MODERN ABYSSINIA
always being changed, and it is said they become very rich
in a very short time, bribery and corruption bein(; rampant,
and the only way they are found out is by sending test
caravans, and seeing whether the duty is levied on them
correctly, and us a test caravan very often becomes known,
the duty on them is found to be levied exactly, and other
means have to be employed to find out where the leakage is
taking place.
Woro Eilu is a straggling town covering some four or iive
Rliles in length, and may be called a series of villages divided
by village greens. The houses vary in size and shape, and
all sorts of Abyssinian architecture are to be found, from the
stone bouse, the composite one, and the mud hovel. There
are several decent churches, and one of a rectangular shape,
with curved ends and three crosses on the fxx>f, is the only
one of its sort tliat I have seen in the country.
I had a battle royal with Hatlou as he tried to make me
camp where he wanted, and not where the head of Uie town
told me to. Me tried to pull down my tent so I was obliged
to shake him, and I rather think I made his teeth rattle, as
he got very frightened and very angry because his soldiers
and the by-standcrs laughed, so he ended up by himself
beating the smallest of his soldiers. 1 wanted to make a
longer stay than usual here, as I wanted to make inquiries
about the Italian prisoners, and see if I could get into com-
munication with sonic of the Italian ofTicers, so I aiked
permission of the he.id man to stay until the next aftcmooo,
making the excuse I wanted to buy things in tlie market
that was to be held the next day.
The head man of the place, who is acting in the abseoce
of Bctwedet Aznaafca, the Prime Minister <rf Abyssinia who
is at Adcsc-Ababa, while King Menelek is making peace
with the Italian delegates, is a very big [>ersonage in hit
way, and I found him a charming well informed person and
had a long talk to him. He was very badly wounded at tbc
battle of Adowa and had still three bullets in him ; two I
could feel very well and the third was too far in the ultoulder
to be ccrt-itn of its exact position. I strongly wlvised him
to go to the Russian Ked Cross Society at Adesc-Ababa and
have them out as soon as the iictwolct came biick, He told
mc that while he was wounded on the ticid of battle, a Sbooa.
soldier, thinking he was dead, tried to mutilate htm ; this
not recognised amongst themselves as a brave actiott, as It
supposed that the man that Ukes the trophy should do
4
CHAPTER XVII
WOLLO COUNTRY AND THE GALLAS
IR camping place was at the head waters of the Meli
river at the upper end of the Meli valley, not far from
a very pretty little iakc This sheet of water i.t about a
mite long by about four hundred yards broad, and looks like
the oval crater of an old extinct volcanic and is surrounded
by v«y high land except near the exit which forms the
main sources of the Meli. The lake takes its name from
the village of Golvo, perched on a small isolated table-
land. This village, although very small, boasts a church of
San Michael, a very nice little building situated in a pretty
grove of very large Wanza trees, and a large vitl<^;(: green
on which a market h held every Monday, it being a great
interchanging place for the ]>roducts of semt-tropical Yejju
and the colder Wollo country.
Above the village green is a Mohamcdan cemetery, and
from one side of it there is a sheer drop to the lake of over
three hundred feet ; sitting on this cliff a very pretty view
is obtained of the lake and its surroundings ; several springs
are situated on the side nearest the mountains to the cast.
these run across the flat for about fort)- yards, and enter
the lake ; the lawn that these springs water is a beautiful
vivid green, then a small shore of white sand and then a
margin of shallow water, and then the dark indigo blue
of the deep water. Several isolated sycamore fig trees of
large size hung their branches over the lake on the cast
side ; on the north there was a fringe of reeds and then
scrub and Wanza trees on the shelving side of the mountain;
the west end of the lake was shallow, and also shaded by
enormous sycamores, whereas the southern side was partly
bordered by cultivated fields and sloping land leading up
to the abrupt sided plateau, whereon was situated tlie
market place and village of Golvo with its tree-surrounded
church.
1 sat watching the Hah rising in the water beneath mc,
in
S90
MODERN ABYSSINIA
I was terribly frightened that they would catch the disease
as well, and I bad them sponged clean with carbolic and
wann water, but curiously enough neither of the three were
any the worse.
This disease is entirely past my understanding ; it cannot
be infectious as the other animals would have suffered, and it
((ills the best and stronge.it animals first, leaving the weaker
ones and the useless scarecrow beasts that no one would mind
losing. In the stable or in the open air is ju-st the same, and
whatever the bacillus or poison Li that first starts the disease,
must be very potent and very speedy in its development to
kill in such a short time. There is sometimes swelling of
the head before death takes place but not always, and
nearly alwaj-s raging fever; the higher the temperature the
Sooner collapse takes place and the natives know of no cure
for it I have tried all sorts of things, and the only animal 1
have 9een brought through was do«ed with very strong
native spirit and hot water with plenty of quinine in it, some
three big tcaspoonfuls to a couple of ordinary- wine iKittle^ of
one of spirit to two of water. This treatment might have
had no effect on the disease itself and the animal might have
been one that was destined to recover. 1 have never heard
of a case getting well when the animal has once lain down,
and 1 have »een them fall and give one or two spasmodic
kicks and then expire.
My experience is that there is not a special season fof
this disease, and it occurs the whole year round, but is man
prevalent in the wet than in the dry. that animals that get
much green food are more liable to it titan grain fed animals ;
this might point to the germ being in the green food, and
BS no animals are entirely fed on grain, and there is litlJe or
no hay made in the country, there is no data to go on if
animals that are fed on dry food only would get it. Thl*
horse and mule sickness is just as great a curse to the country
as tlie lung sickness amongst the oxen and cows, the Utter
disease is no doubt catdiing while the former is not as 1 luivc
had many a proof of. It will be a great day for the ta>
habitants of Africa when a remedy for these two diseases b
dbcovercd.
I paid s visit to the market on my way out of Woro Eila
and was soon surrounded by a jovial but dirty crowd of
natives of all sorts who although curious were perfectly rr-
spectful. It was by far the best attended market 1 had ever
seen, and Adese Ababa weekly market cannot compare in
4
WOI.L0 COUNTRY AND GAI.LAS 3dl
lumbers to iL What struck tne most were tbe large plies of
Jack wool rugii and tent matcri.-Lb besides the black wool over-
its and capes that arc manufactured in the neighbourhood ;
Qts place may be called the Bradford of Abyssinia. Articles
:iadc of straw were also %'cry numerous, such as hats,
ibrcllas, baskets of all sizes and shapes, and dish covers;
The cattle market was also largely stocked, and sheep were
cry cheap, ranging from about 6d. to 2s. per head. Cows
■and oxen were dearer, as many buyers had come from long
distances to purchase animals for ploughing work.
We only made a very short march to Croiirca Bar as
^^we left so late in the day, and then where we encaiiipe<.l was
^b good mile and a half from the high road at a village in the
^Klidst of a barley country. This country is nothing but
^BMrley, barley, barley, and short sweet down grass, and is
^^erribly uninteresting and treeless. Our next day's march
was also a short one, through the same sort of scenery, but
here we change from a black soil to a red one, and the
^district is called Kei Afcr (meaning red earth). The weather
^fcas bitter cold, and I did nearly the whole of the road on
^Vfoot my old mount being led as I could not allow her the
liberty slie enjoyed from Yejju to Woro Eilu as 1 had been
riding Ras Wol/s present and allowing her to run free ;
she follows me Uke a dog, and used to run ahead of me and
graze, and then when I passed follow on, again run alicad
and repeat the performance. She is a most amusing little
beast and a great thief, entering my tent and stealing bread
or whatever slic can 6nd. On one occasion at Macallc she
opened the loaf sugar box, and I should not like to say how
much she ate before I saw her tail sticking out of the tent,
and I knew she was up to mischief. The syce, liadgi All
and I are ihc only people she will allow to go near her, and
the syce alwayij keeps her beautifully clean, and the bits,
buckles and stirrups very bright, and tells all the Abyssinians
they are of solid silver. I do not know what I sltould do U
she died as I never could get another so tame and so amu$>
iDg. She has a trick however of shying at anything like a
b;uc or a bird getting up just under her nose, but she will
allow me to shoot off her back. She jumps like a goat, and
canters, trots and gallops very well even with my weight on
ber back, and aothii^ can touch her with my feather weight
syce riding her.
The country, after leaving Kei Afer, looks to the south
one rolling prairie with a back ground of high mountains.
392
MOUEUN ABYSSINIA
and it was a great surprise to me seeing how soon the sceneiy
alters, and perhaps one o( the most stupendous rifts that b
to be found in all Abyssinia is comt to. One of the w,
of the rolling land is reached, and without any warning a
cipice is reached and a new country altogether comes in sigbt ;
this is the superb valley of the Wanchcct, the river running
at a depth of certainly ovcf 3000 feet. We turned away from
the main road alonp the top of the precipice down a wcU-uscd
but very rough road to the village of Avam isitiiatcd on the
upper ledge of all of the canyon about 300 ferl lower than
the downs which we had just left, and the cliflTs rising nearly
perpendicularly from the level that the village is situated o«.
The contrast from the bteak downs is wonderful ; here the
vegetation is lovely and most luxuriant, great trees covering
the different steps in the valley and getting larger in site tlK
more the warmer climate at the lower slopes is reached. A
lovely panorama of mountain cliflf and boulder is laid oul
beneath one embracing all sorts of diflcrent kinds of rock,
and here for the first time in Abyssinia the columnar bualt
is one of the marked features of the landscape, not to be
lost again until the descent into Adesc Ababa is reached.
Tlic Wanchcct river also adds its waters to the beauty of
the scene. In its upper reaches it is a brawling,
broken highland stream with small cascades and ri
shallows dividing the pools, it then flows dark, deep and
through a narrow gorge with perpendicular banlra, and the
further it proceeds down the valley the larger the volume
of water becomes, as it is added to by rills and brooks
coming from the neighbouring hifyhlands that form in thdr
upper parts graceful and feather)- waterfalls. The river thoi
broadens out into long stretches of smooth water tt-ilh gran
and arable fields on each side, that during htj^h tlooa arc
inundated and receive a plentiful deposit of mud wbkli
annually renews tlieir fertility, and they do not rcttulre
manuring. The shelving banks are covered with lai^e rcerf*
growing to over twenty feet in height, their thick stems be^
used to build the walls and roofs of the houses, and when the
sides of the houses arc well plastered with day and the w>^
neatly thatched they are cool in summer and warm d
the cold season. Here the inhabitants have well-butit
commodious villages surrounded by trees <fi^Ul socti,
thick euphorbia and thorn hedges to l<e«P^^^F ''
who find their homes in the numerous cav^ i by-
fallen masses of basalt columns.
WOI.LO COtWTRY AND GAT.T.AS 393
The view from Avani embraces not only the valley of the
anchcct but what may t>c termed the peninsula of IJevvo,
situated between this river and the Adabai, which contains
one of the famous Amba prisons of the country, Amba
Coloth is the largest one that I have hitherto seen, and is
fully seven miles in circumference and contains several
vill^es with plenty of trees, water and cultivation, and has
only two foTtiliecl paths to its summit, approached through
doorways and a fort. Nature has scarped its sides and it is
unclimlMblc, and is therefore a safe place to detain prisoners
who have plenty of room to walkabout. The panorama of the
high mountains above the Adabai where the province of
Sboa commences shuts out the entire view to the south. A
flat tableland some miles to the south-south-west runs out
into the valley on which is the village of Ncvat with its
urch surrounded by immense trees.
It was quite pleasant gctiing warm again, as we had all
suSered from the cold on the downs, and at night-time my
6ngers used to be so cold that it was with difficulty I could
close the fastenings of the tent Just before sunset I was
sitting outside my tent in a barley stubble, and was greatly
pleased to see a large troop of nearly three hundred of the
Gclada monkey. I had seen a few of lliem in the distance
before in the Wollo country' but never before so close ; they
came within forty yards and seemed to care little for my
ptvsence and occupied themselves by systematically gleaning
the field, picking up even single grains between their fingers
and thumbs, and keeping up a low chattering, evidently a
note of contentment, Monke>*s are amusing things to watch
at all times, and I was sorry to see them make off in a great
hurry at the warning cry of one of their sentries, who had
evidently seen a leopard, as they all made off to the high
trees about three hundred yards away, and not to the nearly
inaccessible cliffs whtcJi were just as close, where the)- always
sleep at night and where even the Ieo{Mrd cannot get at
tbem.
The inhabitants of tliis part of the country dare not leave
y animals out after sunset, and all our mules and the few
iccp wc had wii' "• ■■ within the big fence that
rroundcd th' ^kin of a leopard
t had l.c- >rsc animals
rnt kept
itles
^
MODERN ABYSSINIA
from Avam, as the road winds about and two detours have
to be made to get round tlic vaUeys that run into the downs.
The vegetation was lovely, plenty of new flowers that [ had
not noticed before, and many of tlie trees such as the Wanza
aoti the mimosa were in full bloom, scenting tlie air with their
perfume. The scenery was glorious and the lights and shades
of the fleecy white clouds in the blue sky made the varied
landscape look more charming. Wc encamped at Ncvat on
a green just outside of the very old church of Tcvclat Mariam
with its enormous grove of trees. This church is perhaps
one of the most ancient round buildings in Abyssinia, and
miraculous properties are attributed to the soil tn the grove,
and it is taken away by visitors from all parts of the country.
It Is supposed to be a cure for many diseases and a specific
against barrenness. I believe there is a little sulphur in ihc
soil, .IS there is an evil-smclling spring in the enclosure whkh
is not a drain.
From Tcvclat Mariam church, the one of Aboona Gabn
Mariam at Avam stands up in the distance against the sky
line, and also the church of Festa Gorgis in a large grove of
juniper trees on the other side of the Wancheet valley is
also to be seen ; part of the cure Is a walk to Festa Gorgis
and back, fully ten miles by tlie road, and the stream which
is over a hundred yaixls broad and about four feet deep at
tlie ford, has to be crossed ; this entails a wash, and doubt-
less the walk and getting clean has something to do with the
patient getting better.
More monkeys here to watch ; several of the males a good
four feet six inches in height with big dark manes ncariy
black were splendid animals, and quite decent in appearmocc
as they were entirely clothed and had no red scat to ail
down on.
The direct road from Woro Eilu runs in from the down
about two miles further south of Ncvat, and the town can
easily be reached in a day and a half's march, whereas wc
have been four nights en route owing to Ilailou gettitw
dollars from the Choums instead of food. The road desccnas
from Ncvat by zigzags into the valley, and at one narrow
part of the road a natural fort which has been slightly .iddcd
to by man, is formed out of the columnar basalt ; this c»ai>
matids two of the sigr-ags for about a mile, and as this is the
only road to the south an enemy must paai it, and ii garrisoo
plentifully supplied with provisions and ammunition mlftbl
hold out for ever. In this enormous cave is a large spf
WOLLO COUNTRY AND GALLAS 895
of beautifully cold water, and the mouth of the cave for
about two thirds of its height is closed by a line of basalt
columns.
The river of cour^ varies in siie according to the time of
year, and sometimes by flood mark must be four to five
hundred yards across ; when we passed it was only about
one hundred and fifty yards and about four feet deep, and
the big Italian mule carried mc across fairlv dry. At the
end of the ford is a deep and long pool full of crocodiles that
often levy toll on passers by, and it is not safe to cross alone,
parties of people generally going together and keeping up a
great splashing. The river for weeks toRcther, in the rainy
season, is a bar to all travelling north and south.
On looking up to the downs to the north the grandeur of
this great Hft is fully seen, with its wonderful geulogical
formation of so many different sorts of rock, and the line of
columnar basalt can be traced for miles. A geologist might
make a splendid section of this part of tlie world's .strata,
but unfortunately I cannot tcU what the rocks arc, however,
basalt, limestone, sandstone, granite and others arc seen in
separate layers, and lowest of all seems a reddish yellow
sandstone over the water-worn boulders of the beach of the
river's bed, that contains fossils. About twenty feet up a
perpendicular clilT there are the remains of some extinct
animal of a li^rd or crocodile form, about six feet in length,
witli a rather humped back and a well developod oval top to
its skull.
I should much like to have .ipent some time here but the
growling of thunder and dark heavy clouds to the ca.st made
me push on up hill to better camping ground, and at last
wc halted at King Mcnelek's house and stabtcs at Dcvvo,
situated about three miles east of Amba Coloth. This
establishment is what might be called a rest house, as it is
only used when the king and queen are travelling j but they
have had sometimes to remain for several days to allow
cither the Waiichcet or Adabai rivers to go down, before
they could ford. The buildings are wretched things and are
in a bad »tate of repair, and their guardians live at a vill^^e
about a mile away and some five hundred feet higher level,
as the place has the reputation of being feverish.
1 had hardly got into camp when I was told that
Dedjatch Waldca, the governor of the country between
Woro Eilu and the Wancheet was expected from Adcse
Ababa, and by the dmc the tent was up be appeared in
396
MODERN ABYSSINIA
sight some three mileii off on the road up the valley.
Sdiimper knowing him went off to meet him. he pitched
camp within a couple of hundred yards of us and I then
paid my visit. Abyssinian grandees do not take long
arranging their camp, as they have so many servants and
soldiers. His tent was » very large bell-shaped one made
out of the very soft native cotton cloth, and as they soon
get wet through they often pitch another smaller one inside,
under which they manage Co keep pretty dry. Considering
the lot of campaigning the>- do and that the majority of
their lives arc spent in travcUir^, they arc very primitive In
their temporary shelters they put up.
Dedjatch Waldea was a man about sixty, and seemed
from what I saw of him an intelligent and shrewd person.
He told mc that the terms of peace between Abyssinia and
Italy had already been settled, but the Italian envoy had left
for further instructions, and that until the terms liad been
accepted by Italy that none of the prisoners would be released.
He also said that the king had been expecting me for a long
time, so 1 told him why it was that wc had been detained
and the cause of it. He gave Haiiou a talking-to, but as he
was out of his district he could do nothing, and told mc to
tell Bctwcdet Azanafeca, who was only a day's march behind
him, who was also returning from Adesc*AI»t>a now, that hisj
services were not required.
The Dedjatch had been detained two days on the furthc
side of the Adabai by tlie river being too high to cross, owinj^j
to the storms wc had seen to the castwants, and there hiij
wife had got fever. He asked me for quinine for her, and
suggested I should see her first, partly from curiosity and
partly thai I do not like giving medicine away without myj
seeing the [icTSon. and I was introduced to a very pretty gtril
about twenty, evidently hi« last acquiMtiun, and I found her'
suffering from a strong attack of fever brought on most likdyj
from encamping on the banks of the AdabaE, this nearl;
tropical and low valley being a notedly unhealthy spot
give her some of the last of my pills and a dose of quinine '
in honey, and the next morning the fever had IcA her. Tbc
Dedjatch being greatly pleased sent me a gift of food and a
couple of sheep.
lie was the last of the higher officials that I raw in the
country before arriving at Adesc-Ababa, and I mu*l say that
some of these higher officials in Abyssinia are perfect gentle-
men, capable of doing good work and reaching a very t ' '
WOTXO COUNTRY AND DALLAS 397
ate of civilisatton, if they onXy had a {^ood example set
them. The wonder to me is that they are as ^ood as they
are, considering they have always been surrounded by the
corrupt and brutal Egyptian oRicial and have always lived in
troublous times with ditfereiit rulers of the country intriguing
ai^inst one another and intr^es also amongst the lower
officials everlastingly being earned on.
Schimpcr left early in the morning to go on to the Adabai
to get all our things washed, as the warmth in this nearly
tropical valley would enable us to dry things quickly, and
the journey in front of us was over just the same bitter cold
downs as to Avarn, where washing was of course to be done,
but it was nearly an impossibility to get things dried. For
sanitary reasons it is most necessary always tu wear clean
clothes in this country, as personal vermin are so plentiful ;
and the greatest care has to be used, ami all clothes should l>e
inspected as often as possible. Schimper is a very cleanly
person. I followed on after having a long conversation wi^
Dcdjatcli Waldea, who would not allow Hailou to sit in the
same tent with him. It is curious what a mutual dislike for
one another there is between the Tigr^an and the Amharan,
but to my mind the former is by far the better man of the
two, and the women of the north arc also by far better-look-
ing and more intcIUijent than those of the south.
The country that wc passed through from the Wanchcet
to the Adabai is very rich and fertile. Being a well-watered
valley with a ridge dividing it from the latter river, all its
drainage goes to the Wancheet, but the villagers live a long
way from the road, that runs due south, as there are too
many soldiers passing to make farming remunerative, and
what fields there arc have very thick thorn hedges round
them so as to prevent trespassers. There is a good drop
down to the Adabai ford, which is approached by a gorge
where the Italian prisoners had been hard at work blasting
the rock and improving the road.
The lower part of the Adabai valley at the ford is fully
thrre quarters of a mile broad, and, when we crossed, the
river was about one hundred and twenty yards in width and
about four feet six inches deep. The smaller mules and the
donkeys had to swim, and the current was so strong that it
was quite impossible to cross in a straight line, and it had to
be done di.igoiially ; the ford being shallow for fully two
hundred yards in length, and then runs into a very deep dark
pO(d full of crocodiles, that are always on the look-out for some
398
MODERN ARYSSINIA
animal being atrricd down stream. One of the sheep ^ven
me by the Dcdjatch, Schimper roported havmg been taken.
We could see by the last flood marks, that were about four
feet higher,that the river then was fullyfour hundred yardswide
and the ford then unsafe. The rubbish brought down in high
flood was fully thirty feet above us, and then the AdalMi
must here be a magnificent stream of fully seven hundred
yards in breadth, carrying an enormous volume of water to
the Blue Nile. Some four or five miles further to the east, it
is joined by another big river, called the Mofa Woha ; this
also runs down one of the enormous can>-ons like the Wanchcet
but not of such a stupendous size.
We bathed in a shallow pool formed by a shingle bank
that projected out in the river, and washed our clothes, and
got to the end of our " shipti " ; and I found the only stock
of soap for washing my hands and face wa.i a small piece
weighing about an ounce Schimper having a bit about the
same size. Our clothes were slightly the worse for wear, but
I still had some decent ganncnts left, but not quite what I
should like to be seen in London with. However, I was
what might be called decently respectable after the hardships
1 had gone through, and still possessed several clean and
Starched collars that had been \vashed at Asmara, which !
was keeping for Adcsc-Ababa.
The river at the environs of the ford is very deep, there «
being very deep pools above and below, and many immcnw fl
isolated, water-worn rocks that have taken grotesque shapes; ™
about two miles lower down the river broadens out, and wu
fringed with immense reed beds, the home of the hlppopotamuit,
lion, crocodile and water buck ; wc turned down a path beside
the river, instead of taking the good road to the south, uad
entered the reed bed, through which we floundered for abcwt
a mile, the soil being dark black mud. It was terribly hot,
and although the tops of the reeds, that were here between
twenty and thirty feet in height, were just moved by a sllghl
breeze, it did not penetrate below, and mos^uitos were in
swarms. We had on several occasions to stop, and my
compass came in useful to tell us which way we were coIdc
as wc could sec nothing ahead or on either side, aiid the
escort had to use their swords to cut down the reeds, «o u f o
allow the laden mule^ to pass through. The spoor of tbe^
hippopotamus was everywhere, and we heard some of than^|
that we hiid disturbed brciking through the undergrowth on™
their way to the river ; at I.tst the reefb grew tliinner, and wc
I
4
W0TJ.0 COTTNTRY AND GAIXAS 399
jnd ourselves against a mighty thom hedge, protecting a
eld of siigarone, which we had to skirt along before we
_ itid reach higher ground, and strike a footpath leading to
"the heighLi above.
The vegetation was most intereitting, fir«t the tropical
reeds, then the sugar cane and bananas, rollowe<l by cotton
fields, with the pods with their snow white contents ripe on
the tower branches, and the top twigs still bearing flowers of
many colours ; dhurra followed the cotton, and this was
succeeded by maize, linseed and other semi tropica) Abyssinian
grains, and after another stiff climb up an execrable path, we
opened out on to the wheat and barley land, and came across
a flock of guinea fowls, birds we had not seen since theSamra
ri%-er In the north. Schimper manned to bag a brace with
one shot which disconcerted our escort, as they had visions
of robbers, and although we had been passing through
cultivation nearly the whole way from the river, we had not
seen a living being, and the villages were small specks on
the hills far away, a sure sign that the lower country was
feverish and unhealthy the moment the sun goes down.
On turning round on getting to the wheat land, and
looking below, we could see that the reed bed was a sort of
delta formed by mar^y land into which the drainai^ of the
Arrish valley came out ; to the west the Adabai valley was
spread out in front of us, the valley widening very con-
siderably, and its lower parts being covered with thick jungle
growth and reeds, and the upjKr parts of the basin alone
being cultivated. There is evidently fair sport to be obtained
in this valley, and lions still exist as we saw the spoor of two
on our way up, but it must be terribly unhealthy and the
shooting very diflicult in the nearly impenetrable vegetation
along the riwr's banks.
On reaching the highland I quite understood why Hailou
had brought us this way, as through my glasses I could sec
that the further side of the valley only possessed one village,
and that a small one already occupied by Bctwcdct Azanafcea
and his followen ; he evidently did not wish me to meet him,
and there was no food, or no dollars to be got on that side of
the valley. We halted at the very pretty village of Arrish. a
well watered and fertile spot with lovely trees and seemingly
with a well-to>do population. ArrUh is only, as the crow
flies, a short three miles from the main road, but to get to it
a Icmg detour has to be made, and It must be at least ten
miles round.
400
MODERN ABYSSINIA
We could see through the glasses everything that
passing, owing to the clearness of the atmosphere, and we
could distinctly make out a large party of Italian prLsoners,
making the road along the face of the opposite cliff, and up
the pass leading to the province of Shoa. I was disturbed
while watching the scenery by Hadgi-Ali telling me there
was a woman who could talk Arabic, and should I like to
speak to her; as my baggage had not arrived I went to sec
her and fDund that &lie was a middl&aged lady, the Choum's
sister who had been in the north, and ^e spoke Arabic fairly
well. Hailou finding as he thought t]ie Chounn was away,
had gone to the next settlement to see tlie "chick*" the
minor official. On sitting down inside the house I found the
usual tanned ox skin covering of the scat was warm, and I
could see a silver mounted sword and shield in a comer, so I
knew the Choum had returned from the Bctwcdct's and was
not away, but hiding; grasping the situation at once, I told
the woman that I would pay for any provisions I wanted,
and that it was quite immaterial to me if the escort were
fed or not. as the chief had plenty of money to pay for
things; she went for her brother who turned out tu be a
most intelligent man, he also had been in the north and
could speak a little Arabic, and he immediately told me his
grievances, which were, that he had to help to feed the
Italian prisoners, for which he did not get paid, and be
wished them back in their country ; he had had to find food
for Dcjatch Waldea, now for the Bctwedct, and here we had
arrived and wanted further su|>plies.
Henelek's taxation was ten per cent, an easy tax enou||h
to pay, but what taxation did the constant supplv of food
to strangers mean? In times like the present, the people J
had hardly enough for themselves, and chickens, egg*, miltcfl
and sheep were nearly finished, and were it not for some '
crop always being ripe, they would have to starve nearly.
I was very sorry (or them, and as far as the >Tomanry uti
better class of peasantry are concerned, I have no lic^itatbo
in saying, that they would only be too glad to get rid c/
king ana soldiery, as long as they were sure that tbey wouM
be properly governed by a foreigner, and here was another
example of what is taking place daily, throughout the Ien|>tb
and breadth of the land wherever people are travelling on
govenunent aervice.
I was glad to say that Hatlou had to buy thin^ and got
nothing gratis, and he blamed me for telling tlic Choum not
WOLLO COUNTRY AND GALLAS 401
fof
give him anything, and I remarked how much better off
ire all should have been if we had come along a nice high
road instead of by a monkey path, and have associated with
one of the highest officials of the land on the other side of
the valley. 1 believe that I have had quite a unique ex-
perience on this voyage, and have really seen a good many
of the sides of the Abyssinian question, that a good many
travellers have not had the chance of seeing, and I am certain
if the Italians in the north will only keep on friendly relations
with the lower classes, it will not take long before they can
ignore the higher, who will be powerless to do them any
harm, the moment the peasantry, who are no doubt the back
bone of the country, ace that they can live safely under the
foreigner.
However suitable a despotic monarchy may be for some
luntries, I do not think it is popular or will la.st much longer
here, and one revolution will clear tlie atmosphere greatly, and
then the position of the people will improve. Events and
changes in Africa arc more rapid perhaps than on any other
continent, .ind the crisis in this country may occur quicker
than people imagine, and those that arc interested in the
country should be prepared for it. I could write a great
deal on this subject, but perhaps it might get to a quarter
which I should not like it to, so I had better be silent, hoiip-
ever there is no use Ignoring that the change may rest On
the life of a single man, and Ab>'»sinia is a country where
people very seldom die in their beds.
CHAPTER XVIII
SHOA
'TTHE route next day was round the head of the valley to
-'- the high road, just before it rises in zigzags up the
mighty wait of rock that forms the southern borders of SbiM,
and here I came across the gang of Italian prisoners that
were constructing the new road, a fairly wide and level one
with the boulders and rocks blasted away, and the debris
built up as a low wall on the precipice side. Culverts were
being roughly made, and if the road is kept in repair it will
answer every purpose ; the attempts at small bridges over
the small water courses were made of trunks of thick trees
placed alongside each other, and then covered with lug stones
interstices being filled in with smaller ones, so that £e water
could find its way through ; not a bad bridge as long as the
timbers keep sound, and are not eaten by white ants, but
if they gave way while anyone was crossing, a fall of many
feet would certainly take place, and in some places peih^
many hundred feet into the valley below.
The Italian soldiers were not looking so bad as I expected,
but some of them were in rags, while others had been able
to procure some clothes from Adese Ababa, where an enter-
prising Greek had brought from the coast as many garmenti
as he could secure and given them to the prisoners, simp^
taking their receipt, and trusting to the generosity of the
Italian Government to repay bim. In this instance he made
a good speculation, as he was the means of giving the wretched
prisoners something to cover themselves with, and the Govern-
ment were thankful to him for doing so ; I wonder if oon
would be the same, and if the Treasury would pay up, matt
likely not, as they never had a precedent for doing so^ i
it would not be their business that our soldiers were tai~*~
in a foreign country,
I had a long t^k to a good many of the prisoaer^i
they were as well treated as they could expect to ~
the small wage they earned for making U %
SHOA
403
add to the rations that w^re served out to them hy
orders of the king. Several of them, however, had been
beaten by the man in chaise, and a couple of days before I
arrived they had retaliated, and were now being left alone
to go on with their work without intcrfereuce. 1'he road
after the zifrzai: is got over runs along for a couple of miles
on the level with a precipice on one side, and a steep irregular
rocky wall on the other from two hundred and fifty to five
hundred feet in height till at last a gorge is reached, up
which the road leads, (this pass and road is called the Gobclla
Dagat), and after another mile the top of the Shoan plateau
is come to, where I sat down and looked at the splendid view
stretched out in front in me.
To the north the whole of the mountains of the Wollo
country with their enormous wind swept heights, must have
been sc\eral thousand feet higher than the point I was
resting at. which seemed the highest in the neighbourhood,
the Woro Eilu district was plainly visible, and the upper
bank of the giant Wanchcct rift, and the old church of Nevat
was a mere speck, then the outline of Menclck's state prison
above Dev\'o> and then the high line of country above the
Adabai and the valky of Arrish. On the east another huge
canyon brought the river Mofa Woha from the north-east,
ha course being distinctly traced for many miles, until it
joined the Adabai some three miles off the place 1 was
resting aL
A orcak in the eastern backbone ridge of the Abyssinian
mountains that run north and south gave a far off glimpse
of the sweltering Danakil country, and then the mountains
abruptly rose again and continued in a broken and irregular
line of heights to Ankobar, the old capital of Sboa, now a
place of only second rate importance. The Beressa river
flowed at my feet from the south-east in a minor can>-on,
and joined the Adabai nearly opposite to the junction of the
Mofa Woha with the same river, and the whole panorama of
water, mountiin rtKk and fell with broad tracts of cultivation,
made a splendid picture, its beauty heightened by the lights
and shades thrown from a partly overcast sky with fleecy white
clouds standing out against the deep blue vault of the heavens
above. The whole scene was immense tn its grandeur and
beautiful in the extreme, and embraced cvcrj- sort of climate
and vegetation. By simply facing round the view lo the south-
west was totally diflicnBLroUing downs with very little to break
the monotony of Q^HhPP^ "^^ hardly a tree to be &ecn
CHAPTER XVIII
SHOA
npHE route nnttda^ was round the head ot thenO^to
-l- the high road, just before it rises in .aggaffl 'VJ^
miffhty wall of rock that forms the southern borden of Shoi,
and here I came across the gang of Italian prisonen tirt
were constructing the new rc»d, a fairly inde and levd OK
with the boulders and rocks blasted away, and the debdl
built up as a low wall on the precipice side. Cnlvcrti wat
bting roughly made, and if the road is kept in i^alr it itt
answer every purp(»e ; the attempts at small bn^ti ow
the small water courses were made of trunks of tiudc tR#
placed alongside each otiier, and then covered witii Ug stoMI
interstices being filled in with smaller ones, so that uc«iW
could 6nd its way through ; not a bad bridge as long aithe
timbers keep sound, and are not eaten by white anti^ ^
if they gave way while anyone was crossing, a fall of nuar
feet would certainly take place, and in some places pesb^
many hundred feet into the valley below.
The Italian soldiers were not looking so bad as I expecte4
but some of them were in rags, while others had beoi able
to procure some clothes from Adcse Ababa, where an eot»-
prising Greek had brought from the coast as many ganneoli
as he could secure and given them to the prisoners, stmp^
taking their receipt, and trusting to the generosi^ of die
Italian Government to repay him. In this instance he made
a good speculation, as he was the means of giving the wretched
prisoners something to cover themselves with, and the Goven-
ment were thankful to him for doing so ; I wonder if oon
would be the sam^ and if the Treasury would pay up^ molt
likely not, as thev never had a precedent for doing so^ uid
it would not be tneir business that our soldiers were in miseiy
in a foreign country.
I had a long tuk to a good many of the prisoners, and
they were as well treated as they could expect to be, and
the small wage they earned for making the road:^ allowed
403
them to add to the rations that were served out to them by-
orders of the king. Several of them, however, had been
beaten by the man in charge, and a couple of days before I
arrived they had retaliated, and were now being left alone
to go on with their work wttliout interference. The road
after the zigzag is got over runs along for a couple of miles
on the level wiUi a precipice on one side, and a steep irregular
rocky wall on the other from two hundred and nfty to five
hundred feet in height, till at last a gorge is reached, up
which the road leads, (this pass and road is called the Gobclla
Dagat), and aftc^r another mile the tup of the Shoan plateau
is come to, where I sat down and looked at the splendid view
stretched out in front in me.
To the north the whole of the mountains of the Wollo
country with their enormous wind-3wei>t heights, must have
been several thousand feet higher than the point I was
resting at, which seemed the higheit in tlie neighbourhood,
the Woro Kiiu district was plainly visible, and the upper
bank of the giant VVanchcct rift, and the old church of Nevat
wa5 a mere speck, then the outline of Menclek's state prison
above Dcwo, and then the high line of country above the
Adabai and the valley of Arrish. On the cast another huge
canyon brought the river Mofa Woha from the north-east,
its course being distinctly traced for many miles, until it
joined the Adabai some three miles off the place 1 was
resting at.
A break in Uie eastern backbone ridge of the Abyssinian
mountains l3iat run north and south gave a far off glimpse
of the sweltering Danakil country, and then the mountains
abruptly rose again and continued in a broken and irregular
line of heights to Ankobar, the old capital of Shoa, now a
place trf only second rate importance. The Bcressa river
Aou'cd at my feet from the south-cast in a minor canyon,
and joined the Adabai nearly opposite to the junction of the
Mofa Woha with the same river, and the whole panorama of
water, mountain rock and fell with broad tracts of cultivation,
made a splendid picture, its beauty heightened by the lights
and shades thrown from a partly overcast sky with Rcecy white
clouds standing out against the deep blue vault of the heavens
above. The whole scene was immense in its grandeur and
beautiful in the extreme, and embraced every sort of climate
and vegetation. By simply facing round the view to the south-
west was totally different, rolling down.s with very little to break
the monotony of the landscape, aJ)d hardl>' a tree to be seen
CHAPTER XVin
SHOA
'IpHE route next ds^ was round the head of tbenOqrto
-'- the high road, just before it rises in slgsagi 9 Ac
m^hty wall of rock that forms the southern boioen of aho^
and here I came across the gang of Italian prisoacn tM
were constructing the new nod, a hirly wide and le>*l OM
with the boulders and rocks blasted away, and At dddl
built up as a low wall on tlte precipice aide. Cubcfti «Bpt
being roughly made, and if the road is kept In lu^it-vil
answer every purpose ; the attempts at small 'bnik;«i OW
the small water courses were made of trunks of mac
placed alongside each other, and then covered witb bfe ■
mterstices being filled in with smaller ones, so tliat tw
could find its way through ; not a bad bridge as long aide
timbers keep sound, and are oot eaten by white aaiM, bit
if they gave way while anyone was crossing, a fall erf" miqr
feet would certainly take place, and in some places periiipi
many hundred feet into the valley below.
The Italian soldiers were not looking so bad as I expededl
but some of them were in rags, while others had beoi alik
to procure some clothes from Adese Ababa, where an eoto^
prising Greek had brought from the coast as many gannenli
as he could secure and given them to the prisoners^ sibnp^
taking their receipt, and trusting to the generosi^ of die
Italian Government to repay him. In this instance he midB
a good speculation, as he was the means of givingthewretdied
prisoners something to cover themselves with, and the Goven-
ment were thankful to him for doing so ; I wonder if am
would be the same, and if the Treasury would pay up^ aoit
likely not, as they never had a precedent for doing so^ ud
it would not be their business that our soldiers were m miioy
in a foreign country.
I had a long t^k to a good many of the prisoners^ and
they were as well treated as they could expect to be, and
the small wage th^ earned for making the road^ allowed
SHOA
403
sirei
^KOUt
tiem to add to the rations that were served out to them by
Drdent of the king. Several of them, however, had been
eaten by the man in charge, and a couple of days before I
arrived they had retaliated, and were now being left alone
to go on with their work without interfereuce. The road
after the zigzag is got over runs along for a couple of miles
on the level with a precipice on one side, and a steep irregular
rocky wall on the other from two hundred and nf^y to hvc
hundred feet in height, till at last a gorge is reached, up
which the road leads, (this pass and road is called the Gobclla
DagatX and after another mile the top of the Sboan plateau
is come to^ where I sat down and looked at the splendid view
stretched out in front in me.
To the north the whole of the mountains of the Wotio
juntry with their enormous wind-swept heights, must have
en several thousand feet higher than the point I was
resting at, which seemed the highest in the ne^hbourhood,
the Woro Eilu district was plainly visible, and the upper
I bank of the giant Wanchect rift, and the old church of Nevat
was a mere speck, then the outline of Menelek's state priion
above Dcvvo, and then the high line of country above the
Adabai and the valley of Arrish. On the east another huge
canyon brought the river Mofa Woha from the north-cast,
its course being distinctly traced for many miles, until it
I joined tlie Adabai some three miles off the place I was
^^csting at.
^H A break in the eastern backbone ridge of the Abyssinian
^Tnountains that run north and south gave a far off glimpse
of the sweltering Danakil country, and then the mountains
abruptly rose again and continued in a broken and irregular
line of heights to Ankobar, the old capital of Shoa, now a
place of only second rate importance. The Bercssa river
flowed at my feet from the south-cast in a minor canyon,
and joined the Adabai nearly opposite to the junction of the
Mofa Woha with the same river, and the whole panorama of
water, mountain rock and fell with broad tracts of cultivation,
made a splendid picture, its beauty heightened hy the lights
and shades thrown from a partly overcast sky with fleecy white
clouds standing out against the deep blue vault of the heavens
above. The whole scene was immense in its grandeur and
beautiful in the extreme, and embraced every sort of climate
and vegetation. By simply facing round the view to the south-
west was totally different, rolling downs with vcrj* little to break
the monotony of the landscape, and hardly a tree to be seen
404
MODERN ABYSSINIA
except mund some tsotater! cliurch or hamlet, and bai
fields following barley field!) till all traces of their dividti^
turf walls were lost in the further distance.
A rich land and capable of being made a happy one,
an industrious and docile population held down by a despotic
power, with no chance of improving their position, and never
knowing whether they will ever enjoy the fruits of their
labour, the capabilities of this country are very great, and
under a good government, with the security that it would
bring, the people would soon improve their position.
There is no need to be told what the population consists
of, and who are the ruling race, as the buildings in the
villages show that, the fairly comfortable and large establish-
ments of the Christian Amharans t>cing close to the squalid
wretched cabins of the Mahomcdan bhoans, who do all the
work and pay the majority of the taxation. The Christian
goes about with his escort of armed servants, who all wear
good but dirty clothes, while the Mahomedan has only a
dirty pair of cotton drawers and a .shirt, wtth an untanned
sheep skin or woollen cloak over his shoulders, and instead
of carrying a rifle or a sword, has only .-rame hoe or iron
shodded stick used for agricultural jMirposes, I tho*^ht
what a good thing it would be for the country, and whether
a day is not far distant when the agricultural instrument
will be the only one seen, and how easy it would be to govern
these people, as their great aim in life seems to be to lead a
quiet life and enjoy the results of their labour, practise tbdr
own religion, and when rich enough to make the pilgrimage
to Mecca, and then to return and die in peace In thcJr own
country.
Here I saw two difTcrent people held jn bondage
Italian officer, Lieutenant Kuso, came up witli seven!
Italians private soldiers European and native; the
happily having escaped mutilation like the majority of
had to undergo after the battle of Adowa I had a
chat to the officer who was treated quite as well as could be
expected, but it must have been a sad experience to work
for a native ruler, his only consolation wo* that the road he
and his compatriots were making, might prove useful tt>
march foreign troops over on some future occasion, and lh»l
King Menclek's wish for the improvement of his roads ftf
militaiv purposes might be also a good thing for the imndot
as well. I again here made inquiries, as I did on erOf
opportunity that ofTcred, and asked the Italians how
SHOA
405
inhabitants of the country and I was in-
variably informed that the peasantry went out of their way
to do them little kindncsites and would give them all sorts
of little things, such as milk, eggs and bread, and never
dream of asking for payment in return; it was only the
minor officials, belonging to the soldiciy and the soldiers,
that uited bad language and occasionally struck them ; in
fact the conduct of the poorer people left nothing to be
desired.
1 heard a great deal aflcr I left Abyssinia, mostly from
French sources, of the bad way in which the Italians had
behaved in the country and the ungentlcinanly manner in
which the Italian otTicers coo<lucted them.'^elvcs. I believe
this to be one of the mofiX cruel lies that one nation ever
perpetratc<l against another, and that there was not a shadow
of fact in the accusation. That some of the poorer of the
Italian soldiers took unto themselves Abyssinian women, and
wanted to stay in the country against the wish of their
officers was a fact, but this I do not consider any great
crime, and what poor men of any European country might
have done, as they were living in a fertile counliy with a
splendid climate, and i>erhai>s with much better prospects of
gettir^ on, than in some squalid priest-ridden town in Italy.
I do not believe that tlicrc is a more unlovely place in the
world than our E;i8t end of London, with its horrible sur-
roundings and poverty and where many of the inhabitants
do not know where to took for their next meal ; certainly a
man coming from there into a lovely, bright country, where
all the necessaries of life are to be obtained for the least
labour, cannot be blamed for wisliing to better bis position,
and living a life free from the troubles that he has hitherto
met on every side, and if he takes to himself a partner in
the shape of a good-looking native wife, who will help him
to gain his livelihood and look after his house for him, it is
\ly obeying the laws of nature, and is still less worthy of
3e. Several of tlie Italian soldiers had done so and tJicy
themselves as being perfectly happy, an<l had no
to go back to their country, but preferred their Robinson
Mrs Friday, to that ihey had to look forward
1 to Italy. Those that I saw were certainly
,' the natives to better tlicir
-.- -..^y were living in better built
Ed neat flower and vegetable
'■thcr a little live stock and
406 MODERN ABYSSINIA
certainly had already made their Mrs Friday, as far as clean-
ness was concerned, much better than her neighbours.
We encamped about three mites away from the top of
Gobella Dc^at pass, at the village of Costa Amba, the bead-
quarters of Dedjatch Maconen, the governor of the district
It was bitter cold and the wind blew and whistled throuf^
the basait pillars of a neighbouring cliflf, making weird aad
uncanny noises, which joined with the cries of the hyena,
made one think of spooks and other denizens of fancy, and
kept both Schimper and I awake for a long time. I bdieve
in nothing ghostly or supernatural, but Schimper and Hadgi
AH are both highly superstitious, and the one took to tia
Bible and the other to the Koran, and they sat up Im^
after I went to sleep, reading their respective books by Ae
light of one of the candles we had made en rouU. I chaffed
tiiem next morning, and thanked them for keeping the devili
away from me during the night, and Schimper only replied.
Ah, Mr Wytde, when I am In doubt and I think there it
danger from wicked things, I do read my Bible, and do hold
my crucifix, and then I am safe ; all the same he was vtsf
sleepy in the morning and I took Hadgi Ali to the clifT, ana
be bad the satisfaction of finding out that the noise real^
came from the wind blowing into a cavern lined with basik
pillars, a Eine of which projected across the face and some
way past it.
The whole way from Costa Amba to above Cheta laix,
two marches off from Adese Ababa, is highly monotonous,
over black soil, grass, marsh, bog and barley land, with hardly
a tree except in some low hollow where the ground has been
too damp to allow the fires that sweep over these downs to
destroy them, or on some high ground with cliff sides, where
the basalt rock has acted as a barrier against the annual
conflagration, but even here some partly charred vegetable
giant shows the cause why the country is bare of timber.
All the villages are protected by a zone of uncultivated
ground which is kept free from grass, so the fire wave may die
out, and in them a few accacia and mimosa trees are seen, and
perhaps a hedge or two of quol-quol or some prickly cactus;
these latter trees generally denote the residence of a Christian.
There can be no doubt that the Mahomedans who in-
habited the country formerly, were a great deal better off
than they are now, as there are remains of good tombs in
the cemeteries that are met with so frequently, many of the
stones still bearing traces of decoration, and doubtless on
SHOA
407
le of them inscriptions might be found, as it is far from
ImpoBsible, that if these early MahorocdanH had advanced to
the at.igc of civilisation of stone carving, that they could
also read and write, and left some mark in letters on the
monuments thai they erected over their dead. It is likely
enough also, that when the wave of Mahomcdan invasion
swept over the greater portion of the Abyssinian highlands,
that the conquerors, after they in their turn were driven back,
had the majority of the monuments they erected also
destroyed, in retaliation for tlieir destruction of the churches
and houses belonging to the Christians ; this having taken
place such a long time ago that the ruins must now be buried
in debris, or perhapit under the village dust heaps, and the
pick and the spade would be required to unearth them. The
earh'est Mahomcdan and Arab ruins further north arc under-
ground, and the few inscriptions that have been found, simply
relate to a well or a fountain built by such and such a person
for the good of the traveller, or a resting place for the poor
of the district, or some such charitable action.
The present Moslems simply live in turf houses, a full
description of them has been given in another part of this
book, and 1 can only add here, in this part of Shoa, that the
dirty huts that they inhabit are not fit for a European to
enter, and the few times I was by force obliged to seek
shelter in them, gave me a very unfavourable opinion of the
condition of the people, and there being absolutely no wood
procurable, the stench and smoke from the burning "cow
chips " made me glad when the violent hail and rain storms
were over. On five occasions only did we proc<ire firewood
in northern Shoa, and then only in such small quantities
that as soon as the dinner was cooked, the fire had to be
carried on wltii the very poor fuel of the countr)', which has
little or no heating properties, and it was nearly impossible
to dry our clothes, and my servants sat huddled tc^cther
round a small fire trying to keep warm, and their eyes water-
ing from the pungent smoke given off from the semi-dried
animal droppings ; dirty was no name for the state we all
got in, and wc all looked more or less the colour of bad
ki|^cred herrings, smoke-dried and smelly.
After getting out of the Tuchwayn Province, part of it
belonging to Queen Taitou who has a large estate at Kusei,
where there is also a large government grain store fairly well
fortified, the last bit of interest ceases in the scenery, and
there are not even monkcj-s to interest one, as there is nothing
408 MODERN ABYSSINIA
to shelter them on the downs. Near Costea Ambi and
Imberta they are very numerous, as they have the nd^ibour-
ing canyons to live in, and their great enemy the leofnnl hat
bMn nearly exterminated on the Shoa side of the Adabtl
Between Imberta and Sallela I was very interested to
see three large lots of these Geladas of all sizes ; from dK
oldest of hairy patriarchs to the smallest of domiy habie^
on the march to their feeding grounds ; they have rcgulv
roads, and the natives say that each troop always keeps bo
its own path. They leave their sleeping-places uxc m«»ei)t
it begins to get light, and arrive on the top of the canyon
about sunrise ; if were is a barley field to be gleaned dose
to the canyon, they proceed to that, if not, they may have
to go some way before finding one ; they seem to know dut
they will not be molested by the inhabitants of the counb;
if they do not touch the growing grain, and they therdbce
keep away from the ripening crops. In this barley countiy
there is not a month in the year during which harvestiiig b
not going on, so it is only a question how far the monhcyi
have to travel to procure food ; failing finding grain th^
diligently work the downs for roots, buries, or flower xeds,
and it is only when they are driven by hui^er that they raid
the crops. Monkeys and Shoans seem to be on the best of
terms, and it is most amusing to see the children trying to
drive the monkeys off the stubbles when they are gleaning.
Several of the small boys will commence petting them witii
stones, and the lai^est of the male monkeys will commence
barking and showing their teeth, and then the small boys
will run back to the villages followed for a short distance
by several of the old males, who will then return to their
gleaning,
I had a most interesting conversation with the chouin of
Sallela regarding these Geladas. We were all watching a
troop of about seventy on their way back to their clitfs, and
they passed within a short distance of the village ; the rear
of the troop was brought up by a very large male, lame on
one hind leg, and the choum said he could remember it for
many years, ever since it was a small one, and it was lame
then. I could not get him to say how many years it was
ago, or I might have fixed its age, but it was over twenty, or
as he said, when his boy was a baby, pointing to a young
man of about that age or a little more. This would give the
age of the leader of the Geladas as about twenty*five, and
doubtless they live to a considerably greater one.
SHOA
409
should think that this kind of monkey by the shape of
U is quite as intelligent as any of the other known
species, and 1 do not wonder, therefore, that they get very
intcHiEcnt, and know that when they arc stealing the crops
they are doing wrong; the number of years they live in one
place and seeing the neighbouring villagers daily, they begin
to distinguish those that do not molest them, and like
inonke>-5 in captivity they begin to know their master.
This is no traveller's yarn that I am about to relate, but
» fact, and Is certainly one of the most interesting true
monkey stories that I have ever come acro^ in my many
wanderings. The old choum asked mc if I would like to see
the old male monkey quite close, and of course I was
delighted to have a chance of seeing a really wild specimen
in close proximity ; he thereupon commenced calling " Baba,
Baba," and the old male stopped and gave evidently the
word of command to the others, and they all halted. The
choum then sent for a bit of bread, which he put on a stone
about ten yards ofT from where we were sitting, and the old
male came up slowly and took the bread, and sat down
and commenced eating it. giving grunts of satisfaction as
if he was saying thank you.
K This Gclada when standing upright was over four feet
B^ht inches in height, and had a nearly black mane, and
his fur was in beautiful condition and not a bare spot about
it, in fact a most decent animal, and he seemed quite as
intelligent as a good many m^roes. The muscular develop-
ment ,of the arms and unbroken le^j was very great, and
few men would stand a chance against such a bea^t.
That monkey did not come into the house, or dine with
the choum, nor did it do anything more than I related, but
still it proved that this wild animal, after seeing the same
man daily for many years, had confidence in the choum, and
I was not at all surprised that the villagers believed tliat
he kept his big family in order, and had taught them to
leave the growing crops alone; namely, that there was
danger in going into high and growing com, and none if
they kept in the open, or that there was danger in pulling
down grain, but not in picking it up. I have often had
monkey stories told me by the country people, some hardly
6t for publication and others that would make black printer a
ink blush ; some, however, are highly amusing despite tbeir
being what some people would call very vulgar. The (ales
regarding animals known in Abyssinia arc of a very far
410 MODERN ABYSSINIA
Eastern character, and no doubt they must have o^nally
started from there, and were brought into the cxiuntiy t^
those early settlers from Southern Arabia or from still
further east
Soon after leaving Sallela a part of the country is come
to which seems to me to be the most uninteresting part d
the whole of Abyssinia ; it is the central upland of Shoa,
' and if I was asked what it consisted oi, I should say Made
mud and marsh with a few bits of basalt pushed throi^ ft.
I shall always remember the country round Gnua and
Gadulla, and its dreary view with a glimpse of the mountvns
of Ankobar to the east, and that of Selall the country of
Ras Dargai (King Menelek's uncle) to the west, wih a
ridg^ of mountains in front of us, over which I am told b
Adese Ababa, and the end of our southern journey.
The whole of the drainage of the numerous mud ditcbc^
mud brooks, and mud flats, all goes to the Adabai, and
during the rainy season this river must carry an enonnoni
volume of water to the Blue Nile and a very large amoont
of colouring matter. In any other country these water
courses would be fringed with vegetation, whereas the tallot
plant is some bunch of rushes perhaps live feet high. These
are generally cut down by the women to make I»sket woilc
with before they have reached that height, as if they get
too long they get too tough and then are useless for makug
the waterproof utensils used for household purposes. Every
pond and mud hole had a brood of goslings or young ducks,
but we had only a few cartridges left so we did not kill
them, besides we had a great deal of difficulty in cooldng
anything owing to want of firewood, and from my diary
I find now both our cooks are either too ill or too lazy to
cook, and It is very oRen ten o'clock at night before we can
get the water to boil to make our coffee, and with native
made bread and a boiled egg we go to bed hungry and
cold.
The end of this uninteresting country finishes up with
Chela Lake, a large saucer-shaped depression surrounded
by ranges of small hills with a most pronounced rise to the
south-south-west, over which the Adese-Ababa road runs.
There is an outlet on the north-north-west that takes the
waters of the lake on their way to join the Adibai, but it is
a very small one. In the rainy season Chela Lake must be
at least seven miles long by from two to three broad, and
during the dry season shrinks to a mere puddle, so anyone
SHOA
411
pftsxing it (Itiring the wettest season would mark on the map
a big lake, while perhaps a traveller passing in the dry season
would find a pond and say what a terrible romancer the
other man was.
We had a rainstorm the day before [ arrived, and on the
first glimpse of this duck and goose covered water, I do not
think it could be more than a mile and a halT in length ; the
aAemoon and night was one incessant downpour, and the next
morning it was over twice the size, and I am told that the
village of Chela is an island in the height of the rains, which
I can well believe. Here wc had about the worst hailstorm !
ever experienced, and many of the hailstones were the size of
walnuts and hurt terribly where they struck; to face the
storm wxs impossible and we all had to turn our backs to it
Tlic barley fields were cut to pieces, and I never felt so mean
in all my life, as it wa-t bitterly cold and we got drenched.
The storm passed over as quickly nearly as it came on, and
then the sun came out about four o'clock, and then wc had
a double rainbow resting over the lake which looked very
pretty, but we were all too miserable to pay much attention to
the beauty of the scene, and were busy ti^Hng to find out a
dry place to camp on or where the least hailstones lay on
the ground. At last I saw on a ridge just above Chela
vill;^e a heap of straw where the natives had been cleaning
their b.-trley, so 1 made my servants take my things there,
and Schimper sent one of his servants to find out who it
belonged to. On the owner coming, we purchased the great
stack for a dollar, and wc soon cleared it away and found a
dry place underneath lai^c enough for all of us to camp
under, and seeing a broken down hut with a little wood
about it wc also purchased it for another dollar and two out
of our remaining bars of salt
We soon had a roaring fire under way, the first for many
days, and we got thoroughly dry and I man.oged to get a
warm bath, which I sadly wanted, as I had not washed for
five days since crossing the Adabai, and I am sorry to say I
found several insects on me of two sorts, that are not
mentioned in polite society; the only wonder was that I had
not more, as every one of the natives and my servants were
swarming with them. Till the present moment I remember
our dinner that night, and the ducks that Schimper had shot
were delicious, and we managed to get some green peas from
the choum's garden. The choum was at first very unfriendly
and absolutely refused to give the escort and Hailou any-
412 MODERN ABYSSINIA
thing to «L I offered to pay for aU that I wanted and he
would scU nothing, as he professed to have nothing left in
his house for himself and his family. His reason fornot sdl-
mg was, if he had sold to me that Hailou would have wanted
the things for nothing. I sent to a neighbouring groan of
bouses and got eggs, milt, chickens and honey whidi «e
were badly in want ot Haflou and his men had to eo
supperless, and as I saw they were all very hungry and qiu>
tired out with our long wet day's march, the moment Hailoa
went to sleep I gave the soldiers two sheep I had with me,
and they made a good meal. Hailou also having his shar^
and the next morning he was quite gracious to me and said
that our troubles would soon be over, as the day after we
should reach our destination and then I should see what a
beautiful place Adesa-Ababa was, and what he would do Ibr
me ; however, the next day we did not arrive at our destJaa-
tion, as we started late and the march was a great deal too
long, one of the soldiers said, to do in one day.
From the place we encamped above Chela Lake the road
led all up hill over a more broken country, mostly gras
valleys surrounded by high hills which were worthy the name
of mountains ; the farms were all far away from the main
road, as evidently agriculture near the highway, owiug to w
many soldiers going backwards and forwards, was as usoal
not a paying business. During the whole day's march we
constantly passed batches of soldiers, some of them very
civil and others the reverse ; we also passed many countrymeD
with supplies of all sorts, and many animals laden with iirc-
wood and timber for building purposes, shewing already what
a distance fuel for cooking purposes is brought to Adesc-
Ababa.
The last ridge of mountains was arrived at, that divides
the upper Shoan highlands from the lower level round Adese-
Ababa, and at last we got to the top of the fiaruck pass and
sat down under a sycamore fig-tree just on the southern skle,
and enjoyed the warm sun and the shelter from the cold
north-west wind off the downs. We followed the main road
down the pass to the open plains, and then finding it im-
possible to reach the capital till after dark, we tumed off to
the right to the village of Tanquiil^, where Hailou ended up
his journey with a 6nal quarrel with the villagers, The
choum of the village, seeing our cavalcade coming across the
oi>cn land towards his home, riding away before we got there,
llailou giving chase. As the choum was riding a horse, and
SHOA
413
1
»
Hailou was only on a mule's back, he could not overtake him
and he returned in a vcr>" bad temper to find that I had pitched
camp at a well built isolated farmstead, who^-c owner would
have nothing to do with the escort, and ordered them off to
the village situated about a mile away. It rained heavily in
the afternoon and it was so wet that the escort did not care
about coming near my tent, so we spent the last night in
peace, and the owner of the farm and his family were mo3t
Kind and attentive to me, and I obtained everything I
required, including goat'ft milk for our coffee.
The cattle disease in Shoa was still very bad, and nearly
all the homed cattle at Tanquiltc were dead, and I did not
care about drinking cow's milk as it might also be bad for
one, not that the natives mind, as they not only drink the milk
but eat the meat of the animals suffering from lung sickness,
and often cut the animals' throats to save their lives, as the
Irishman said. They will not cat the flesh of an animal that
dies from the disease, but they will kit! them when they are
absolutely at the last ga-sp. I hardly eat a bit of beef the
whole way from Macalle till I reached Adesc Ababa, and
then it was from healthy animals killed for the use of the
Italian prigoncrs.
Tanquillc is a pleasant little village situated in a small
inlet of the downs and nearly surrounded by hills fairly well
covered with big trees of the sycamore fig, too big to cut up
for firewood ,and also juniper trees that are reserved for building
purposes, they belonging to one of the churches in the district ;
being protected from the cold winds the climate is verj-much
warmer than that met with in the immediate ncighlwurhood,
and all the crops ripen here much quicker than in the open,
and maize and dhurra can be grown that do not succeed, or
arc a precarious crop elsewhere. From what I could learn
from this farmer he made a good deal of money out of his
crops which he could sell well at Adese Ababa, but be had
the same complaint to make, although he was quite near the
king, of the exactions of the soldiery. I daresay many
travellers on making inquiries would be satisfied with going
to the first cultivated ground and asking the owner if he
was robbed by the military, and he would very likely get an
answer in the negative, arid the man himself moat likely
would be a petty officer ; the old saying of d(^ dots not cat
dog. is applicable to this country as well, and no military
man will loot another in his own district, but an Amharan
will a T^r^n, and viet vena, and both the Mahomcdans.
414
MODERN ABYSSn
Food at Tanquillc was very much dearer than at any other
place I had as yet visited, and cpgs, chickens and butter,
were in ^rcat demand owing to the number of Italian prisoners
at Adosc Ababa. We sat up for a lon|; time at night, well
on till the small hours of the morning, as vre had a \-ery
heavy thunderstorm, and the heavy rain falling on the tent
made sleep impossible, and quite near our camp place were
the remains of several dead bullocks on which a number of
hyenas were feeding, and their fighting and quarrcllinR over
the half-picked bones lasted for a long time. These animals
simply swarm near Adcsc Ababa, and as they live at some
distance from the town among the rocks in the neighbouring
mountains, they have some distance to go before they get food
and they are therefore later in feeding than in other parts of
the country. Near all the other big towns their dens arc not
more than an hour's distance, therefore an hour or two iifter
sunset their cries commence, and if food is plentiful they
have 6nished feeding by ten o'clock and the rest of the night
is spent in peace. It is very curious how seldom hyenas
are seen in Abyssinia, although perhaps dozens of them arc
beard every night. It is only when the moon is full and
very bright, that their ghostly forms arc seen flitting about,
and it is only " new chums " that try to shoot them.
i remember when I first came to the country many years
ago as a "tender foot" 1 was very keen on shooting Uuaa,
and procured several splendid heads both of the striped and
spotted, but they were dirty beasts to handle, and their smell
something disgusting. I have now come to the conclusion
that they are far too valuable an animal to molest, and
arc a great deal more useful than the majority of our
home Municipal Councillors, keeping the towns and villages
perfectly clean. They ought to make good animals to hunt
with a pack of dogs as they would serve instead of a drag,
and would always give a good run and a warm scent from
the neighbourhood of the towns to their dens, but pcrhap*
where no foxhound would care to enter. Who knows thai
the day may not be far distant, when Englishmen will hunt
the hyena in Abyssinia with a pack of dogs. The country
would be a good one to ride over, as there arc plenty «
watercourses, and the turf walls that surround the fields would
give plenty of jumps, and the sport would be very popular
with the natives, as many of them are very keen spori^mcn.
It would also give them a favourable impression of us, who)
compared to the "boulevanl foreigner' who docs nothing
I
SHOA
415
t a little shooting: this type of European being the only
one the>' know.
We left Tanquille after the night's rain, everything being
wet and muddy, and instead of returning to the level high
road that follows from the commencement of the liaruck
pass over the ylain to Shola, the nearest camping-ground to
the east of Adcse Ababa, we took a mountain path of the
worst description. 1 kept an account of the water courses
we had to cross before the settlement of Adese Ababa came
in sight, and they numbered twenty-three ; through these wc
had to flounder. These water-courses were not made use of
for irrigation purposes as they would have been in other
parts of the country. The day was fine to start with and
then got showery, and our clean up in the morning at
Tanquille before starting was in vain as in a short time wc
were dirtier and wetter than ever, and a bad bout of fever
came on in consequence of the ducking, and shivering with
fever 1 arrived in sight of the Ghcbbi or king's palace situated
on tlie highest isolated hill of the depression and broken
ground tliat forms the new capital.
V.
■
CHAPTER XIX
ADESB ABABA
AS far 8s the first si^t and fanpicnion of Adcae Ablbi
was concerned I was not struck widi it; and peAtft
from the pcrfnt where I was stationed due nortli I hM,wa
ttie exception of the high land round Entotto tlie old caaftil
to the westwards, the best bird's-eye view of tUa itngpv
and very large settlement What first strikes the cne ni
is tile most conspicuous part of the irfkole view, ia mt HI
cm which King Menelek's large enclosure is sitoated ; it li
built at the rad and on the h%hest part of an ostjiNlkl
lower spur of the Entotto mountains, and is near^ ■iiiiiwilii
fay lower land, and two streams always containiDf a pkntti
supply of water come from the highlands to the nrnth mi
vest and join in a valley about three mites to the soutb-CHt
of the Ghebbi. On the flattish spur there are seversl otker
large enclosures containing houses and gardens, that of tke
Aboona Tbeophilus being about the best The whole diabict
consists of more or less broken ground with small gullies diit
have been formed by the washing away of the soil by ti«
quick flowing drainage from the highlands. The place ca>-
not be called a town but a conglomeration of hamlets and
huts with hardly a decent bouse to be seen anywhere. Tbe
whole area is nearly treeless and very disappointing and not
to be compared to a great many of the northern towns.
In the centre of the depression at the foot of the (Hidili
there is lower land in which are situated the hot springs of
Filua, generally with a thin cloud of steam hanging vKt
them, and quite close to these is a small pond and a large
water meadow belonging to the king ; from the water
meadows there is a gradual rise to large open grass dowm
which continue till the surrounding mountains are reached
that are of the same description as those passed tbrou^ in
the Wollo country but not nearly so grand or picturesqoe.
We could see groups of soldiers' tents dotted over the luid-
scape belonging to the men of the numerous military leaden
4iC
ADESK-ABABA
417
of other districts, that had come to pay their respects to the
king, and through my glasses I could see a constant stream
I of people both mounted and on foot going to and coming
from the king's palace, which seemed densely crowded with
a mass of specks like the smallest of ants, in fact the hill
might be likened to an ant-heap with its busy workers going
backwards and forwards, but these human beings we were
watching might be termed a lazy lot of loafers, soldiers and
sycophants, who perhaps bad never done an honest day's
^work in their life.
H^ Another conspicuous object was a group of very large
^^£uropean tents in a spacious courtyard belonging to a fairly
lai^e house over which the Red Cross Flag was fl>'tng, mark-
I ing the head-quarters of the Russian Red Cross Mission who
had so kindly and disinterestedly come to aid the Abyssinians
I and to look out after their wounded because they were, or
j nearly so, their co-rcligionists, pilb and bandages marking
I the first footsteps of Russia in Africa, and opening, perhaps,
I under the cloak of chanty and humanity what may become
a foundation to build a right to interfere in the politics of
I Abyssinia and the northeast of Africa and also on our line
I of commerce to the east.
We continued our march down the path that led towards
the Ghebbi, sending on part of our eKort to the palace to ask
where we were to camp, and crossed the first stream, a good
sized brook in the dry season and impassable during the
rains, and halted at a stone quarry where some labourers were
at work blasting a white lime-stone rock, and some Arab
I and Indian masons were dressing stone. These men had all
come from Aden and were getting much higher wages than
! they could procure there. They told me that they also
received rations from the king, and that they were saving
nearly all their pay. The blocks of stone they were dress-
ing were intended for the construction of the king's private
dwelling, and this work and the road-making were tlie first
' examples of what the present ruler is doing to improve his
surroundings now that he considers himself firmly seated on
the throne.
The road from the quarry led to the lower depression
skirting the bill on which the Ghebbi was built, and, on
one of the minor palace officials arriving, we followed it and
were led to a house about a mile and a half further on
than Ghebbi, situated on a ridge of high land that forms the
lite side of the depression to the king's palace. I was
D
418
MOBERN ABYSSINIA
delighted when I put foot in the house that had lieefl given
mc a*i a residence, as I was completely done up wiUi my long
voyage and the hardships that I had undergone, and had a
very bad attack of fever on mc from getting consLtntly wet
through. I was dirt>' and unshavcd, with my hair vcr)- long
and my riding clothes torn and stained, and my hands in a
terrible state from the cold at nights and the hot sun by day,
and not having any toilet soap left to clean them properly,
mj' face where exposed and especially my nose was a sight,
the skin pealing off and hanging in strips, and I looked as
disreputable as possible. It was just sunset when I arrived,
and the man in chaise of the house did not come for some
little time while 1 was shivering with fever in the courtyard,
when he did he gave everything I could want, native bed-
steads, a sofa, mats, carpets, tables and chairs, but both
Schimper and [ were a great deal too tired out to do much
and we wanted sleep, as for the last few daj-s, owing to the
bad weather at night time, we had hardly closed our eyes.
Wc went stipperless to bed, and the last thing I remember
before going off to sleep was Hailou's shrill voice disputing
with the guardian, who would not allow him to enter the room
where 1 was.
A hardly unintemipted steep of nearly ten hours and I
awoke to find the sim up, and feeling that the fever had left
me for the time, but an indescribable irritation, and 1 found
the fleas and bugs had been having a feast and jubilation on
the body of the lirst Knglishman that had found his way to
Adese-Ababa, and they had evidently appreciated the meal
as I w.as all over bumps. There are times in one's life when
a particular bath is remembered, and I shall never forget
mine the morning after my arrival. I sent down for buckets
of water to the nearest hot spring, about half a mile off, and
when it arrived at the house it was so wami that I could
hardly bear my hand in it, and I shall never forget, while 1
was having it, Schimper telling mc that an Italian lieutenant
was in the next enclosure, and he had obtained a bit of soap
from him, so, on using it, I was soon fairly clean, and what
with a shave and Hadgi All cutting my hair about as short
ai the bristles of a toothbrush I began to look quite decent
We had a capital breakfast and then a lot of visitors
called, mostly Italian oflRccrs, and 1 heard from ihcm what
they Imd to put up with since being taken prisoners at
Adowa. They were all looking healthy and in good con-
dition, and as they had received new clothes they were
I
I
I
— • ''
ADRSK-AHABA
419
looking neat and tidy. They were receiving letters and news
at uncertain intervals, and they could send nothing away
except when an Italian Government courier left, which was
once in about two month-t, »nd they dare not trust anything
to the Abyssinian post, as it was in the hands of French
subjects. I was advised on no account to trust anything to
it. King Meneick had started the post and his idea was if
a stimp with a picture of his head was put upon a letter it
would go to any part of the world in safety, and that no one
would tamper with it en route ; but the French subjects that
look out after the postal service take the keenest interest in
everything that strangers do in the country. It was supposed
to leave Adese- Ababa and to come from Djibuli every fourteen
days, but it all depended on the state of the roads, and the
service on my arrival had not long been started. The king
had had relays of messengers from Harar for several years
that immediately brought him all the important news of
what the Italians were doing, and the French had kept him
posted up in everything from Djibuti.
Soon after my arrival I had a visit from the king's
Chamberlain or Master of the Ceremonies, Gerazmatch Yuscf,
who came to in^iuire after me and to fnid out all about
what I had been doing. He said that I had been expected
a very long time ago, before peace had been arranged with
the Italians, and I explained him the delay and said it was
none of my fault that I had been taken to all parts of the
country, and that I was very angry at the way I had been
treated and not allowed to get my things from .Adowa and
the Italian frontier before I started. Gerazmatch Vuscf talks
French mast fluently and seems to be a very intelligent and
superior sort of a person. In the middle of his visit I had
another shivering fit, and he immediately saw how ill I was,
and on leaving lie said I should have everything I wanted
and he would call again when I was better. I gave him my
passport and letter of appointment from the Manclttster
Guardian which he asked mc if he could take away with
bim, to which I consented, and for curiosit>-'s sake on his
departure I made one of my servants follow him to find out
wbere he went, and it was reported to me that he had gone
straight to the house of a Frenchman who had recently
arrived.
When I was at Adese-Ababa, with the exception of the
Red Cross Mission from Russia, there were no others in the
ilacct if a Spanish priest from Rome could be called one ;
420
MODERN ABYSSINIA
the Italian delegate had left with an ;^eenient that hM
been drawn up, and if the terms were agreed to, the Treaty
of Peace would be based on them ; as the Italian repre-
sentative could not act without reference to Rome, be had
gone to the Coast for orders. The Italian prisoners had to
remain until the terms agreed upon were accepted, and there
was no immediate prospect of their getting away.
While at Adesc-Ababa I spent the greater part of my
time with the Italian officers who were most kind to mc.
and General Albertone had hours upon hours conversation
regarding the battle of Adowa, Of course I having seen the
whole of the battle-field and knowing ft so well, I could
explain many things he knew little about even round his
position ; that battle was fought and refought over and over
again, and I used to be very much amused how excited we
all used to get and how the earth was dug up with sticks
explaining the different episodes, and the amount of paper
we spoilt in drawing plans. Schimper at the time of the
&ght was with General Baraticri, and neither of them saw
anything of it very close and nothing of Dabormida's or
General Albertone's positions, so he could not help in the
argument and only looked on ; he could, however, fix one
point certain, that General Baratieri halted In one place for
many hours, and a great deal too far off to aid anyone of
those that got into action against a foe much slower even
than the mobile Abyssinians. General Albertone repeatedly
told me that he sent back several times to say that he had
taken up his position, and asked why he was not belo^
supported, and where the centre was, and why it did not
come forward ; and he never received any answer to bis
messages. To retreat was impossible, and If he bad taken
up a trifle better position about a mile in advance, he would
have been equally quickly surrounded and outnumbered, and
it was liis opinion that they never stood a chance from the
time they left tlieir position at Entiscio, and if the whole of
their force had been in touch that the end would have been
the same, only they would have inflicted a heavier lou on ^m
the Abyssinians. ^M
His artillery, in spiteof having superior gunners to serve It ^^
was inferior to the enemy's in range, and therefore stood no
chance. There can be no blame .-ittached to the Italian
officers, who behaved bravely and fought till the nujnrity uf
them were killed or wounded, and tnl defence was further
impossible ; as no more ammunition was left, what more could ,
n
ADESE-ABABA
421
mor
^'
w)i
did
sol
the so
Hpnian!
ey do. or their country expect from them i I ain vouch
Sr their bravery by the battle-field, and for them being
_Bntlemen by their conduct after they were taken prisoners
and during their stay in tlie country, and tlie wicked libels
published about them by another European power reflected
more on the nation that gave the false news to the world
in it did to those who it was intended to injure.
The history of the campaign has never been written, and
when it is it can bring no discredit on the Italian nation.
Jthough blame must be attached to individuals ; there was
lo disgrace in being beaten by a foe that consists of such
jileiidid fighting material as the Abyssinians, especially
when they outnumbered the Italians in the ratio that they
did- [ have no hesitation in saying tliat, had Knglish
soldiers been in a like jxtsition, the result would have been
the same.
It has been the fashion in England to r^ard the Abys-
lians with a sort of contempt and to under rate them in
possible way, all I can add is, that if it is in this spirit
that Englishmen undertake any campaign in future against
these mountaineers, they will have a rude awakening,
' and will find that it is not .-gainst the Dervishes that they
are fighting. I may be wrong, but I consider that the
Soudan campaigns have been a bsid school, as the actita]
fighting has been so easy, and although the foe has been a
brave one they have never shown any tactics, and have
always charged in the open with their spears and shields
against modem arms of^ precision with only one result,
^namely, being annihilated.
^H How good the Abyssinians arc is little understood, and
^Bow they are armed with modem rifles and modem artillery
^Kid that their tactics are admirably suited to the country
^^ley inhabit, they will prove a foe that will tax the re-
sources of any first-class power and will necessitate large
forces being kept ready. I do not say at the frontier but
witJiin easy di.staiice of it, to protect the subjects of Abys-
sinia's neighbours, who cannot be allowed to live in fear of
raids as they will never be able to carry on their peaceful
avocations in security, and unless they do so no marked im-
provement can be made in the prosperity of the surrounding
countries.
I It is my opinion that half measures with the rulers of
Al^'Bsinia, no matter who they arc, will be of little good,
and lhc>- must be cither friendly or unfriendly ; if the former.
432
MODERN ABYSSINIA
they will have to fall into line with Italy and Eng^Iand,
aid in the peaceful commercial and social developmcat of
their subjects, by giving them security which only a just
government can do, and what they have not got at present ;
if the latter, it can only end in a war that will finally settle
the question in one way or the otlier ; the strain and
insecurity of not knowing what Ls going to take place wiU
keep the north>eastern portion of Africa in an unsettled
state, and always prevent the carrying out of the mid-
African railway and telegraph. The one, there can be no
doubt, will be shortly earned out, while the other I look upon
as a diplomatic luxury that can never pay without its
lateral feeders being first constructed, and then the main
line will never earn its working expenses by what it carries
until well on in the twentieth century, whereas in a reason-
able time the feeders will p.ty fair interest on their capitaL
I have every confidence now that the importance of the
Abyssinian question will not be ignored, our usual national
apathy let the undoubted opportunities that wc formerly
had slide, until wc found ourselves supplanted, and, as I
said before, it is impossible for us to say how far the present
ruler is bound to his present advisers and how deep the
evil is rooted. I firmly believe at present that no paper
ties or promises that the king has ever made would be
recognised by him tf they stood in the way of his interests,
so it is quite possible that he would enter into further
engagements, only to break them if he found they were
inconvenient, and his life of intrigue that he has led makes
him a match for the most able diplomatist of any tution,
so it will be very difficult to corner him.
He may learn a lesson from those he is now brought into
contact with, as he never before saw an Knglisli officer or a
gentleman until our mission and the present English repre-
sentative, and may learn that there are other types of
character than those he has formerly seen and been brought
into contact with. No one who has ever had any dealings
with King Meneick can doubt that he has many good poind,
and is making an advancement and strengthening his country
by adopting modern inventions, which, if used in a peaceful
manner, will greatly benefit his country, but there is no
assurance that they will be so. He has the reputation of
being jtist, when his own interests arc not concerned, and
being less cruel than many of his predecessors, but still he
could have prevented the wholesale mutilation after
I
I
"' ' "-
ADESE-.VBABA
428
Adowa battle ; in Tict, there Is no saying wliat he may do,
as he is capable of turning into one of the best native
potentates that Afrioi has ever produced, and tlie concluding
years of his life may be marked witli Uie greatc:st benefits
to his subjects and humanity in general, with a peaceful
succession of another equally capable man, or they may be
remembered by some of the greatest of African battles, and
the most terrible misery perhaps that this part of Africa
has ever iseen.
It is useless my giving any description of Adcse-Ababa
as so n)uch has been written about it,* and it has now
been visited by so many people ; after I revisited it eighteen
months after, f found it had grown laiger and perhaps this
immense straggling »ettlement has seen its best days, and
some new place will be chosen as hcad^quartcrs, as it is now
nearly impossible to procure firewood for the wants of the
inhabitants, and an Abyssinian must have fuel to cook his
food, as he cannot always partake of the bloody feasts that
are seen at their worst at the palace and are one of the
weekly features of Adcse-Ababa life. As long as a large
standing army at head-quarters is kept up, this settlement
is shortly doomed; if the army is assembled In some other
district Adcse-Ababa may still be the king's residence for
some time longer, but the country contains many places
that have a better climate and offer more facilities for im-
provement than the present capital
I do not think that Adesc-Ababa contains anything of
interest that has not been described in other parts of this
book, and the king's palace, which is a very inferior Swiss
chalet that would slielter any of the middle classes in
Europe, is not to be compared to Ras Mangesha's palace
at Macalle. There are few works of utility, there is no
covered market, and there are no sliops. The bridges over
the streams arc of the rudest construction, and show no
engineering ability, and no decent road existed before the
arrival of the Italians, although engineers have been at the
king's disposal and resident with him. Water is brought
into the palace by pipes; the stream utilised being tapped
at a higher elevation, so it requires no pumping. The chiel
stores and artillery dcp6t are buUt of stone, and are of no
architectural bc;iuty, and the whole settlement seems as if
it had been built in a hurry and would be left in a hurry.
* Counl Cteieheo'i Mcowt oT Die HiMion to KImk M«Mkk In 1887 gh«« u
ftceuMK Mcoui of tka plaM.
484
MODERN ABYSSIKLA
The houses of the European residents arc of better co
stniction than those of the natives, but Abyssinian designs
|Jiave been copied; the dwelling that I occupied on my first
jvisit is now the Italian residency, and the hospitable and
tehanntng companion Captain Ciccodicola, who represents
their Government, has turned the flea snd bug-infested
tumble-down premises into a clean and comfortable place,
beautifully furnished and with great taste, and it is now quite
an oasis of civilisation in the midst of squalid and semi-
.civilised surroundings; the Italian residency is by far the
[best of all the European establishments in ^e place, and it
also gives the king an idea of what a European gentleman's
bouse is like, and teaches him that with aU his power and
riches he has nothing like it
I was warned by tlic Italian officers against a certain
Frenchman who had travelled in a clerical garb as far as
Adese-Ababa, where he had dispensed with it, and this was
the man that my credentials were tAken to, and be did mc
many unfriendly actions and triefl to get mc to make him my
go-between with the king, who did not see mc until 1 had
written for an interview, and on our first meeting he told me
that he had been informed that I had arrived so ill with fever
that I could not go out. I certainly had been very ill for the
first three days, but with good food and rest I 90oa pulled
through, and it was this Frenchman that had been keeping
me away from the king by telling him I was ill.
I have had many interviews with King Mertelek, and oo
my first arrival he had no European adviser at Adesc-Ababa,
and was glad to sec any foreigner and gain information from
them. I was asked by him to publish in the MaiuJusttr
CuardiaH a copy of the treaty that he had entered into with
the Italians, and thanks to the enterprise of the proprietors
of that paper, they were the first to give to the public full
details of the agreement entered into, and a more correct
account of what had been done in Abyssinia than had cvef
appeared before. Wliat had been published before was all
hearsay, baiiaar rumours, and tittle-tattle, and certainly the
proprietors of the Mattcktsler Guardian can claim the credit
of nutting before the world tlie truth regarding Abyssinia,
and drawing the attention of the public to this very much
neglected country.
My thanks are due to them for their kindness to mc, and
1 should not hesitate again to carry out for them a aimilar
undertaking, t was laughed at, and was told the task that I
ADESE-ABABA
425
ndcrtook was impossible, and I should never be heard of
^ain if I crossed the Abyssinian frontier, as the state of the
country was so disturbed. Dangers I suppose there were,
but I do not believe that I did anything more than what
many other Enplishmen would have accomplished, as long as
thej- treated the natives in a gentlemanly manner, and kept
their temper. I have always managed to get on with natives
no matter in what country I have been, and with the excep-
tion of shaking the officer in charge of me, which did him
good, 1 never had to lay hands on a single person in the
whole country.
I have also to thank King Menelck for his great kindness
to me during my st.iy at Adesc-Ababa, and during the many
conversations I had with him on many subjects I found him
a remarkably shrewd and clever man and very well informed
^n most things except on England and her resources; his
information on our country evidently having been obtained
from persons entirely unfriendly to us, and who did not want
Englishmen to have an)' diplomatic or commercial trans-
actions whatever with Abyssinia. It must be understood that
at this time Menelek had not been nin after by Kuropcan
missions, and the Fashoda conspiracy had not taken form,
and the mind of the king was to a certain extent free ; the
conspiracy could only have commenced about three months
after my departure, and it had no doubt been arranged before
the arrival of the English mission under Sir Rcnncll Rodd,
and was carried on after their departure, when England was
not represented with still greater activity, and was in full
tjain before Captain Harrington arrived, but the result of
Harchand's expedition was not known nor was the success
fiom the Abyssinian side assured.
Had the Abyssinian forces with the French leaders been
at the mouth of the Sobat river when Marchand had arrived
at Ka-ihoda from the west, the French would have had a
chain of posts across Africa, from their Congo pos-^tcssions to
Djibuti, and the friendship of King Menelck would have
been doubly useful to them, and they could have waited for
events in Abyssinia, obtaining first the greatest diplomatic
influence, then a prolectorate, and then annexation and
shutting the country for ever to cveiy one but their own
subjects.
There can be no doubt that we have been expanding our
possessions in Africa at a great rate, but, however, it was
inevitable, and at the same time, instead of looking at our
responsibilities in a proper light and increasing our staff and
armaments in a proper ratio, we have tried to do things on
the cheap and, not having enough permanent officials in our
home offices, have neglected our opportunities which others
have been too glad to seize, and now our expansion in the
north-east of Africa is not the blessing it should have been,
and, where the expenditure of pence would have been sulEcicnt,
pounds will now have to be spent to enable us to win back
the position we formerly held. I believe the different Govern-
ments have been fully warned by those that serve tjiem what
would take place, and they have not been listened to, and whit
ought to have been everyone's business of course was, as on
other occasions in the east, nobody's, because the Indian and
Home Departments do not agree. No matter what sacrifice
we are put to, we cannot give up what we have taken in
hand, as any one of the possessions that are given over may
prove to be the keystone of the arch, and the whole fabric of
our outer and greater Britain may come tumbling down about
our ears, and ruin may stare us in the face.
We are now going through in South Africa what tiie
Italians experienced in the commencement of their colonial
enterprise, and the same faults may be attributed to both
governments undertaking a business with too small mean&
The Italians had to give in for a pecuniary reason and not
for want of men, while in our case it seems as if the men
are wanted. These lessons are, no doubt, taken to heart by
King Menelek, who will follow the movement of England in
the south with the greatest attention, and he will see that the
troops opposed to us in the south are the same material that
he commands, viz., peasantry that are good shots, unhampered
with heavy commissariat details, and who know the ooontiT
thoroughly over which they manoeuvre and who can oao-
centrate at any given point much quicker than their advemnr-
With the example before him of what is now going <» ia tw
south, it will be a sure sign that he is friendly to Ei^bnd if
he does not ask us to settle our frontier, and take advaDtagc
of our present position. Towards the sea he can do us no haiD^
as if he procured a seaport he would not know what to do witt
it nor could he hold it, but towards the Soudan we are entirely
at his mercy, and he could over-run the v/hole of it in time
with the greatest ease.
It was no idle boast of the late King Johannes when he
wrote to the late Khalifa that he would come to KfaartooiBt
and what he was capable of doing the present ruler may alio
ADESE-ABABA
427
at
t is useless on my part publishing the details, as they
> no (jood and mi{;ht do a great deal of harm. Suffice
it to say, time to him is no object, while it is to us, and there
can be no doubt that Khartoum will more or less always be
at the mercy of the rulers of Abyssinia for many years to
come.
I do not blame King Menelek Tor the position he has
taken up with the French, as he had seen what an important
filacc Djibuti was to him, as the French had supplied him
rom there, with the greatest of pleasure, with everything he
wanted, and with their aid he could be independent of his
other neighbours, and did not want English aid cither through
Zeilab or Bcrbcrah, where he had always been hampered first
by Egypt and then by England, who prevented his obtaining
arms and ammunition with all sorts of formalities and restric-
tions and sided latterly with Italy against him. The natural
thing for him to do was to come to some understanding ^vith
the French mission, which was before ours in the field, and
help them to pass through his territories, not for one moment
~ inking that the day was not far distant when England
would be his near neighbour and occupy the territory aimed
at by France. Whatever our KnglisI) mission told him about
'hartoum and what was the English intention with regard
;o it (we had not at the time occupied it, nor did we do so
for fifteen months after), he knew very well that there was a
chance of the French getting there first, and doubtless he
was told by them that they would remain there always, and
as they had been so kind tu him on one side of his dominions
they would most likely be the same on the other.
It is sincerely to be hoped that the clouds that now
obscure thLi part of Africa will not break in a storm which
may carry everything before it, and that the present ruler
■nay see that any temporary successes that he might obtain
could only be (or a short time ; and by now he should
certainly know, or if he docs not, he should be told that it is
the sole aim and wish of the English public to live at peace
with his subjects, and, seeing a happy population justly
governed, enjoying peace and prosperity without any inter-
ference from our side with their religion, so they can also do
their part hi bringing about a better state of alTairs than has
hitherto existed in this lovely country. I have every reason
to believe tliat the lower classes in Abyssinia are aware of
this, and, if our name only stood as high with the upper
classes as it does with the lower, we should liave little to fear
428
MODERN ABYSSINIA
and little to be anxious about with regard to the fotUFC
this part of Africa,
The conspiracy in Southern Africa against our rale can
only have one end, no matter if it takes one year or two to
accomplish, but the successes already achieved by the rebds
may make the Abyssinian question harder to settle, and I
shall watch with anxiety for some little time the progress
of events that tike place in King Menelek's dominions,
knowing ful) well that there can be no security until a final
settlement is arrived at ^H
The country between Adcsc-Ababa and the coast ofB
the Gulf of Aden has been so often described and written
about that it now seems to be one of the best known of the
modern routes into Africa; when I first went over it it was
a mere track winding across the highlands, and each merchant
or traveller took the path that he tliought best; now a tele-
phone wire has been put up which serves as a landmark and
guide to everyone, and the road has broadened out and a
great many of the overhanging bushes and trees have been
cut down, so it is impossible to miss the path. What struck
me the second time I went along the road was that the
villages were more deserted, and instead of the inhabitants
Rocking to the roads so that they could sell their produce
to the strangers, that they had made their homes further
away ; this has no doubt been occasionctl by the greater^y
number of troops that have passed up and down on thcii^|
way to take part in the campaigns that have been undcr-^
taken against the people of the far west, and the number
of guests of the country who get free rations only ;■ ' H
prove the insecurity of the inhabitants and their fear > ■ ^ fl
robbed by the military, and providing free food for the
visitors.
This road carries by far the largest quantity of produce
that leaves or goes into the country, but still nothing bu
been done to facilitate the traffic ; there is not a shelter or
a rest-house along the whole route, and everyone lias to
encamp in the open. In other countries the merchants
arc protected and patronised, but in Abyssinia it is the
reverse, and they arc looked down upon. It is not mc
than three years ^o when it was dangerous for small partic
to cross the llawash valley that divides the Harar highl
from those of Shoa, on account of the bands of wandt
Arrusi Gallas that had their home in the mountains to
south of the road, but these robbers plundered tome of L
ADESEABABA
429
' or
bii
an
ing's property on its way to Aclcse-Ababa, and the whole
of their country was conquered and annexed, and now they
have settled down to pe;iceful avocations, and the road may
now be said to be perfectly safe, and the tales of the cruelties
that were formerly perpetrated only serve to frighten nervous
travellers of little experience
The whole road from Adcsc-Ababa to the coast is very
ir going during the dry season, and there is not an awkward
or dangerous bit on the whole route, and the very worst
bit would be called a good road in the north and parts of
Central Abyssinia ; there is no single place where transport
animals have to be unladen, and the loads have to be carried
for a short distance and the operation having to be performed
veral times in a single day's march. During the heavy
ins, however, many parts of the road arc deep in mud, and
through the forests the going is very difficult owing to Uie
boggy nature of the soil, and the animals have great difficulty
in getting along. There is plenty of water along the whole
road, with the exception of the section between the Cassim
and Ilawash rivers, ten hours' march for laden animals, and
this might be remedied by taking the shorter route from
Araki direct to the Ilawash, but as no one has opened this
road no one travels by it, and tlie merchants are very con-
servative, and because the present road used was less liable
to attack by the Arrusis when they raided, it is still used
'W there is nothing to fear from them.
Perhaps the most charming parts of the whole journey
arc tlirough the Cunni and Kolubic forests in the Harar
province, now rapidly being destroyed by burning the giant
Natal yellow pines and other trees that grow so luxuriantly
in this perfect climate. The Harar province is the only
place in Abyssinia where the Natal yellow pine is found,
and here it grows into a veritable giant, only equalled in
size of stem by the ancient sycamore fig-tre<:s of the north.
The Natal yellow pine has a red wood and smells something
like cedar; in any other country but this it would be care-
full>' preserved and made use of, as some of the trees have
huge straight steins of over sixty feet in length and would
make excellent timber for rough bridges, or cot up in
pUnks it would be very useful for building purposes. The
Abyssinians, however, have no tools with which they can
work these large pieces of timber, so the trees arc ruthlessly
destroyed, and what has taken perhaps centuries to grow is
reduced to a charred stump in a few Iwurs.
4M MODfiBN ABYSSINIA
The fertility of tiw Hanr [Rtivlnce Is ivdl knowi^ and a
1^ book might be written on the sutject of Hi Vbbotf aid
Its great natwal resources ; among the districts of AbjMUi
^t I know I place it as third, the otiier two lliat an bdler
are Yejju and the country round AbU-Add^ fai their ofder n
named. The late Sir Richard Burton desoibed Hanr la feb
book "First footsteps in Africa"; sfaice hia time t hn
wtmderfully developed Durii^ the Egyptlait ocayrtiM
of this district the conquerors buut better houses tiiaa thoie
fbnneriy inhaUted, but all their improvements weie of m
evanescent order, and all they did did not balance the bl^^fe*
ing dSect of their rule, and me horriUe crueltio tiiey OOB-
mitted on the peaceful ^ricultural Nola and Hargeta tiftN»
men. The Abjnsinians uiat have succeeded them have aot
kept thii^ in repairs, and the place Is little belter than a
low class ^yptian town used to be before the EtigUsh ooca-
pation. Raa Merconen has, with the aid of Indian and A/A
workmen, built a decent bouse which is called the ptho^
and an Abyssinian dinrdi has now been added that OiB^
looks the large Custom House Square: It Is a waited top*
full to overikiwii^r, and natives from all parts of the ciat
together with Lcnantines are found in the baxaara^ dn«a
here for commercial purposes. Its trade Is an Importairt
one and rapidly increasing, and no doubt, when the eoontrjr
settles down, will be the centre of a large coffee industry, u
the land is admirably suited for its cultivation and produce!
the coffee known in the English and foreign markets as the
Mocha long-berry.
On two of the occasions that I was at Harar I have seen
a good deal of the Abyssinians' most en%htened repre-
sentative, Ras Merconen, who is a most courteous and
polished man, far superior in every way perhaps to any of
the other public men throughout the country. He is spdccn
of most highly by everyone, and I have to thank htm for
many great kindnesses and going out of his way to help me.
He has the reputation of being a good diplomatist ^id a
brave and cautious general and able to handle lai^ numbers
of troops, and also being a good and humane administrator.
Being a near relation to King Menelek's he has been em-
ployed by him on every important undertaking and has now
been made governor of Tigr^ in place of Ras Mangesha lAo
is not in favour of the king, owing to his weak character and
love of intrigue. Ras Merconen has been to Italy, and has
therefore seen something of the outside world, and altho^
^VDESE-ABABA
481
Tic has had to fight the Italians he seems to be on a most
perfectly friendly footing with them. It is said that he
rather favours them and prefers their friendship to that of
France, and as he is now administering the adjacent territory to
Enthrea he is Away from I""rench influence and intrigue which
seems to be centred on the south rather than on the north.
There can be no doubt that if Kas Mcrconen succeeds
to the throne, which everyone hopes he will do, he will make
a good king, and there will be more chance for Europeans to
settle in his country as he fully understands that Abyssinia
cannot any longer be kept closed to ci\-ilisation and foreign
enterprise, and he is quite shrewd enough to know that
putting cvcrj'thing in the hands of one power can only end
in disputes between the two, and it is a great deal better
Elan to be friendly and confer favours on all, which no doubt
e will do as soon as he gets the opportunity. He has the
reputation also of being more generous than the king and
not nearly so avaricious, who was formcrl)' a keen bargainer
and took the best tenth in kind of all his subjects' belongings
and the biggest and best of the elephants' tusks. Ras
Merconen's estates also compare favourably with those of
the king, and his servants arc better looked after ; he is a
eood sportsman besides, and a man who is that and a good
farmer and landlord cannot be a bad sort. In person he is
scrupulously clean, and is always well and neatly dressed,
and dislikes the pomp and barbaric splendour with which
lower class ofhctals love to surround themselves, I have
seen him on several occasions out for a walk with a single
attendant — a sure sign that he is liked by the people and
has no enemies, and this is what very few of their minor rulers
Inthecountry cando. He seems to be very friendly with the
Knglish, and being a well informed person he knows the
value of our friendship, and if he ever lives to be king there
can be no doubt that he will do ever>'thing in his power
to live in harmony and strengthen the bonds of friendship
with us.
I waited at Harar until Ras Mcrconen furnished me with
a copy of the treaty entered into between Abyssinia and
Italy, and I then left for the coast. During my sojourn at
Harar the Italian Red Cross Mission arrived under that most
charming and kind-hearted official, Captain de Martino, who
knows Abyssinia so well, and was for some years Italian repre-
sentative at Adowa, where he has left such a good name and
rq)utation behind him, always helping the poor and sick and
432 MODERN ABYSSINIA
admintstratii^ to their wants. From Captain de Haitiiio
.and Dr Elise Muzetti I received every kindness — medidne,
food and everything 1 could want I handed over to them
the budget of letters I had got the Italian prisoners to writ^
and I was glad that I was able to be the means of getting
these unhappy people to communicate with their relatioos.
At Harar I got rid of my mule transport that showed tbe
effects of their long march from Massowah ; like their nuater
they had gone through times of rest and feasting, and fatigne
and fasting, through rain, sleet and snow and over wind-
swept downs, and hot tropical valleys, only two of them
looked better for the journey ; the laige Italian mule was in
the best of condition, and its legs and hoofs as clean aod
good as the day of its birth, it had come over the rocks and
Qirough the mud without being shod, and its feet wete
perfect, showing that it is not always necessary to protect
the hoofs with shoes ; being the most valuable uiii^ I
possessed, I gave it to Ras Merconen, who was delimited
with it, and he still had it on my next visit to the counby.
My white mule that 1 had ridden for over ei^t months in
the country accompanied me to the coast, and I found it a
home at Aden where it still lives, with little work to da
The friend that I gave it to rode it up to the club near^
daily, and it used to deposit him in the road when he got quite
close, and then go back to her stable ; she never gave i^
shying, but all the time I had her she never got me o^
altiiough on two occasions we fell together ; she would foUov
me like a dog, and I believe in the hands of a trainer she
would have learnt many tricks. If I did not speak to ha
in the morning and turned my back to her, she would put
her head on my shoulder, and rub her nose against my cheek
as if she was asking if I was angry with her ; another thing
she had learnt was always to go to some stone or ant-heap^
so I could get on her back without using the stirrup, and
when at grass there were only three of us that could approadi
her, as when strangers came near, back would go her ean^
and she would come open mouth at them, and it is a curious
thing mules then seem to have a greater number and larger
teeth than under ordinary circumstances.
At Harar my last good-byes to my kind Italian friends
and to Ras Merconen were said, and I left for Gildessa where
I was to procure camels for the desert route to Zeilah ; leaving
the highlands the weather was nice and cool, and the heat
increased with every five hundred feet descent Gildesai
ADESE-ABABA
4S3
with its treacherous climate and its fevcr-striclccn surround-
ings, was rcacli^ the day after, and here can be seen at some
lasons of the year Uie curious plienomeoon of a stream losing
If in the sandy bed of the river — within a distance of one
undrcd yards all traces of it are lost, a stream about a foot
in depth by about fifteen yards in breadth entirely disappear-
ing; many of the drainages from the eastern slopes of the
foot mountains do the same the moment they arrive at the
foot hills, the water continues an undcr^ound course to the
sea. where a break in the coral reef is a sure sign of fresh
water undci^^und. This fact is not made enough use of, as,
no matter where one is tn the Red Sea. a break in the coral
and the presence of the " asclcpiad gtgantea " plant is a sure
sign that fresh water can be got by digging; the. ancients must
have been aware of it, but the natives have now forgotten
t such is the case, and another reason is, that the coast-
Inc is generally inhabited by camel owning tribes, who
perhaps do not drink water from one end of the year to
another.
No incidents worth mentioning occurred on my way from
Gildcssa to the coast; lion and leopard were heard at night
along the upper part of the road, an ostrich or two were seen
and pig and many sorts of antelope, the absurd-looking
gerenhuk with its camel-like neck being the commonest. I
passed Monsieur Lagardc on his way up with the first big
French mission that visited King Menelek, who returned
covered with glory, and the title of Duke of Entotto. I was
taken no notice of, and did not receive a simple "^tmyt^trr." and
as they had monopolised the whole of the water, and would
not even allow my servants to drink, I did another three
hours' march, and arrived at another water well three hours
on, glad to be away from their camp.
The next day I arrived at Bir Caboba, where the Italian
Red Cross Mission had made a station to aid the prisoners
on their return to the coast, and here I received a hearty
welcome, and remained with them the whole day, they doing
everything they possibly could to make me comfortable, and
offering a profuse hospitality that I could not return. I left
witli them my shot gun and all the cartridges I had, as they
were only armed with rides and with them could not add
francolin, guinea-fowl, hares, and dig-dig antelope to thdr
menu, and the place swarmed with small game.
From Bir Caboba I made a quick march to Mcnsa, and
from Hensa I tried to get into Zeilah in one march, a distance
3X
4S4
MODERN ABYSSINIA
of fifty miles, but got so tired with the heat Ihat I remaioed
at Worobot during the night and then went on at daylight
to Zeilah, where I arrived very <rarly, and was soon under
the hospitable roof of the English residency, then m chai^
of Captain Harrington, the present representative of Her
Majesty at Adese-Ababa. who I have to thank for many
kindnesses that I am afraid I shall never have any chance
of repaying. He has a task in front of him that will he
most diracult to carry out, and I only hope that be wiU
succeed, but failure on his part will not be bis fault, a:i he
has uphill work to perform, and perhaps a more difficult task
than ever until a satisfactory settlement is come to over the
South African question. 1 shall watch Captain Harrington's
career with the greatest interest, and tf he can manage to
keep things quiet in the hotbed of intrigue which surrounds
King Menelek he will deserve the greatest kudos. It must
be the wisli of everyone that knows this part of Africa that
a peaceful arrangement of the many complicated and vexed
points with which this question is surrounded is arrived at,
and that Uirougb British and Italian influence this michty
power can be controlled and used for the benclit of manldiMJ
instead of for the aggrandizement of a few people.
Our Indian representatives in the east are so well known
for their hospitality, lliat they hardly want my jimall tribute
of praise to be added, and whether it is at ZeiUb, Bcrbcrak
or Aden, that hearty welcome Is at present open to nearly
all travellers that pass through. After passing many mootoi
in a wild and seml-s,-iv,-ige country, tliere Is no more charmJnc
feeling than to find unc!i<tf in a nice clean house with a charm-
ing, gentlemanly, well-informed host, who so well uphold* the
honour and glory of the old flag that floats over the buiIdio|^
and one cannot help feeling how much better it would be for
the inhabitants of the countT>- that one has passed thrDugb
that they also could enjoy the benefits of law and order, Bt>^
government arnl security that our &ae always brings when
intrusted to those gentlemen and officers that have been
brought up in the Indian school, and who now represent Ihc
Greater English Government in the east
JibA
^£t
CHAPTER XX
lOOTING IN ABYSSINIA AND ON ITS BORDERS
[T is always a very dt'flicult and unsatisfactory business to
advise anyone where to |;o for a shooting expedition,
and no country perhaps has changed in so short a period as
Abyssinia ; however, 1 hope alter the perusal of this chapter
that the sportsman may gain some information on the subject,
and be Me to follow in my footsteps, and pass many happy
days, and enjoy himself among tlie lovely scenery of this
interesting country which is now so little known to English*
men. It only seems a few years ago when I remember the
inhabitants having only a few flint or bad percussion firearms,
with which it was a difficult job cither to make a lai^c bag
or be certain of an animal much over fifty yards off. Time
bas altered all this, and through the Italian colony of Erithrca
and the French settlement of Djibuti, especially the latter,
one constant stream of firearms passes into the interior, and
there is now not a single hamlet throughout the tcngtli and
breadth of the land that is not furnished with many fairly
modern breech-loaders.
In referring to Appendix VI-, a full list of the ^me still
to be found in the country is given ; but all the animals are
in sadly and ever decreasing numbers, and unless Ab>'^inia
falls into the hands of, and hereafter becomes part aiid parcel
of Greater Britain or Italy, and protective laws arc established,
it will only be in the now nearly unknown districts that btg
game will be found, and a sportsman able to obtain s[>ccimen5
of the larger antelope. At present all the edible wild beasts,
big and small, are killed all the yenr round ; the female in
young, and the fawn as soon as it can walk, meet the same
fate as the male, and nothing is spared. There is the only
satisfaction that they are not wantonly killed, as the meat is
all used, and if not eaten fresh, is dried for future consump-
tion ; but still the naturalist and lover of nature will shortly
KVC to deplore the time wlicn the majority of the laiger
436 MODERN ABYSSINIA
animals that once inhabited this country will be represented
by specimens in the Natural History museums of Europe;
It is useless at present talking to the native about game
laws, life in Abyssinia hitherto has been so precarious, and
worth such a few years' purchase, that he enjoys his sport
while he can, and he thinks nothing of the future, and that
a time will come when there will be no game left He is
hungry, the animals are there, and if he does not shoot diem,
some one else will ; so he justifies his action, the same as the
slayer of rare wild birds in England, who ai^es in exactly
the same manner. The only preventative beii^ fine and
imprisonment, an impossibility with the Abyssinian, but not
wid) the Englishman.
At present in central Abyssinia, except in the thick jungk
and unhealthy tropical valleys, very few of the larger antelope
are met with ; the defassa or water buck is now a rate
animal, and the great kudoo rarer stilL The klipspringer
and the several sorts of oribis and duikers are about theoal]'
four-footed game met with, and then only some way off fioB
the roads. When I first went to Abyssinia small herds, or
pairs and single animals, were often met with daily, in es^
shooting distance from the country paths; now one naj
travel miles without coming across a specimen, and who
they are seen, which is generally in the early morning or Ute
afternoon just before dark, they are so wide awake and keep
so near cover that stalking is far from easy. In the thiddy
cultivated part of Abyssinia game, both fur and feather, ti
nearly non-existent, with the exception of guinea-fowl and
francolins, and these are getting scarcer in places in ratio as
to the cheapness of powder and shot; however, ducks of all
sorts, geese of two kinds, and snipe and waders are plentiU
round the lakes and along the banks of the numerous spriop
and rivers, as they are not eaten by the Abyssinians. I
remember the time when guinea-fowl were not worth a chaigt
of powder and shot, as the Abyssinian could not affofd to
waste what to him was a precious possession, to be Died
either c^inst his enemy or a larger animal ; since tim k
has more opportunities of getting supplies, and hag leam^ ■
the several occasions when he has been pinched hy '.
owing to war or the failure of his crops, to eat vatay 1
that formerly in his prosperity he would not think of I
The mere boys that once scared the turds from :
with sling and stone, or by shouting or [ ~
and the cracku^; of whips, in manv
SHOOTING IN ABYSSINIA
487
»
moted to the use of the old g:uns that their fathers now deem
beneath them, and they too wage war against the francoltn and
guinea-fowl, or the smaller antelope, that seek refuge in the
crops of dhurra and maize or Indian com. their favourite
feeding places. What with the fathers after the larger game,
and the sons after the smaller, and the travellers always on
the alert for something eatable for the pot. there is a constant
harrying of all sort« of game, fur and feather, and it is only
hi the out-of-the-way places where even small game shooting
can now be enjoyed, and a good bag can be made.
The Ras, or chief of a province or a district, will, when he
has tlic time and little or nothing to do, make an excursion
to the nearest place where large game is procurable. He
generally sets out with a big retinue, sometimes several
hundred men, and combines very often business with pleasure,
by looking up and levying tribute on some of his subjects,
that for a quieter life like living as far away from hcad-<iuarters
as possible. Battues arc then engaged in, and the jungle for
miles round is driven, or a large valley surrounded by hills !s
chosen, and on all the game paths leading out of it men are
placed, making it impossible for the wretched animals to
escape, and large bags are thereby made, often suRictent to
last the party for many days. If dangerous game, such as
the elephant or lion, is met with, they fall under a fusitadc
from many rifles, and, if present, the Ras or chief man
generally taking the first shot and claiming the tusks or skin
as the case may be. These hunting expeditions, as a semi-
barbarous show, leave nothing to be desired, and the dancing,
singing and relating their experiences of the day's chase
round the camp (ires in the evening, when feasting and drink-
if^ are eng;tged in to a late hour of the night, has a charm
for these semi -civilised mountaineers. To listen to the in-
dividual deeds of prowess that have taken place, and calculat-
ing the number of the .ilaughtered, the bag from tlie accounts
of those that have taken part in the day*s amusement is
enormous, as there are at least a dozen of ti\cm that claim to
have killed the same animal. I have heard the same tale in
the smoking room in England after a big day's shoot, when
if what each gim claims as his share is added up, the sum
total of the real bag is greatly exceeded, and leaves nothing
lor those that have taken part in the shoot but are not
present
These expeditions cannot be called sport in the English
sense of the word, and for a sportsman they have no charm,
438 MODERN ABYSSINIA
as the game has no chance, but still, if one con^den that
these hunting parties have existed from the remotest age^
and that the majority of those that take part in them have
ell the rudiments for making good fighting men, and are of
a superior race and more capable of development dian tiu
native who is not a hunter, it seems a pity for aliou to
criticise their doings or try to prevent them from enjoyii^
themselves when they can.
The sport in the country under descriptioD dates bo^
we are certain, to the time of the Ptolemies, as their huoting-
camp was situated in the Habab country. Their seaport was
the ancient Errih, where ruins still exist just south of Agfa%,
the seaport for the southern Tokar district, so for nuny
centuries this country must have been more or less wiU
and never much cultivated, and in these times must have
carried an enormous head of game The elephant is stttl
found in the vicinity of the Khor Barca, but it is very scarce
and only found in the rainy season.
I have very strong feelings myself on the rights of the
Africans to their own game, and although I go so &r >i
to say that if the animals are not protected th^ will
eventually die out, the inhabitants of the soil have a better
right to the game than the traveller and the globe-trottiif
sportsman. I believe that what has been done by dw
Government officials in the British Somali country, trying to
prohibit the useless slaughter of game, and making a portion
of the country a reserve where animals can breed in peace
and are not to be disturbed, is a step in the right directioo,
and when Abyssinia becomes more opened up by English-
men, that the same laws that are in force in Somaliland may
be adopted in parts of the country unsuited to agriculture,
and it will still be possible to get up a fair head of game.
In Somatiland it is not the native who destroys the animals
so much as those so-called sportsmen who go there and see
how big bags they can make, and I am sorry to say kill
female elephants and their young just to be able to say, " Oh
yes, we got so many more elephants than such and such a
party that shot over the country the year before." I have
seen some of the trophies that now adorn their houses tn
England, and I should be ashamed to own that I killed them.
The elephant, according to the accounts of the natives, does
no harm except when they come near the dhurra crops, and
that is very seldom, and they are generally found far away
from civilisation. They may be found sometimes feedii^
SHOOTING FN ABYSSINIA
489
I
quite close to the herds of female c»mels and their young
ones and never take any notice of them or disturb them in
any way.
The lion and leopard arc legitimate game anywhere, no
matter their size or when and where they are killed, as they
do so much hann to the domestic animals of tlie country,
especially at the time when the parent animals arc teaching
their yount; to kill. I saw on one occasion twenty-three
small and lai^e cows that were killed in one afternoon by
a lioness and her four cubs, which miRht have been from
eighteen months to two years old. I followed these lions
for many miles and they got back into the Shoho country
before I could catch them up, and it was impossible to
im>ceed further. The cows killed had hardly been touched
except about the neck, and thctr meat was sent into Massowah
for sale. I got news of the kill about four hours after it took
place, and immediately left to take up their tracks, but could
not, unfortunately, overtake them. A few days after they
killed two camels and wounded three more This was at
Ailet, thirty miles from their first kill. 1 .sat up over the
remains of one of the camels, but the lions did not return,
and they a|^n killed, a few days after, at a place a good
forty miles to the north on the Lebka river.
There can be no doubt that, if a lioness teaches her cuba
to kill a human being, which they <io occasionally, they will
turn into man-eaters at once and not wait for old ^c or a
semi-crippling accident before they turn their attentions to
men. To rid the country of these pests is doing the Somali
or Abyssinian a good turn, as the lion often charges his diet
from the four-footed beast to the human being, and once
learning that the latter is the easiest caught and killed of all,
he becomes the terror of the neighbourhood, not only carry-
ing off the natives when they go to fetch water or while
watching their Socks but boldly entering the zareebas as
well.
Of all the sport in the world pig'Sticking in India is
supposed to be the finest, as it requires being a good horse-
man, combined with great nerve and dash added to coolness
aod skill to take part in it successfully. The mnle of the
Abyssinian pig is a very tough customer to deal with, and
when once wounded becomes dangerous ; these animals, how-
ever, are not ridden down, as their flesli is not eaten by the
Walkcit huntsmen. The ground also in Abyssinia is not suited
for this sport, owing to the thick bush and the animals going
'^^'-L ~—
440 MODERN ABYSSINIA
to ground or gettii^ into caves, P^-stkldng b
cunpared to wliat may be got in the counby, and '
be uoug^t of the nerve^ daui and pluck of tne HamraB^ Aob
and WaUceit tribesmen, iriio will attack on honebadc with
the "white arm "only the dephant, ihlnoceroa, lion, boiblo
and leopard. I have never lud the luck^ like the late Sir
Samud Baker, to tee any of theie animals ridden dama, bA
I have seen the latter antelope^ soch as the Bdi^ atfched
and killed, and as an exhibition of cool daring and ptmk I
believe thoe is nothii^ to equal it There are not mai^ of
these northern Abysnniana left, and the Hamrans werenaity
wiped out during the Mabdi's rebellioi, ^|fatii% ibr IreedoB
and thdr old rd^on, so there may not be many mare
opportunttiet left of sedng what, without exertion, most be
the finest and most exciting sight of any that this worid CM
produce namely, two or three mounted men in die opCB
tackling some immense " tusker," or riding down a tfainoGcna
going at fiiU speed, and finlshli^ off the onulMt witii the
sword.
For those «dio have not read tibe late Sir Samud Bakei't
description of these hunts, I woukl refer them to his Afikaa
publicatirais for fiill partkulars, but I have talked romid
the camp fire frequently over the sport with natives iriw
have taken part in it, and I could listen for hours to their
accounts of the adventures they have gone through, told in
a modest and unassuming manner, as if it was only child's
play, and not that a slip or tumble meant death, and also so
unlike that of the vulgar Abyssinian soldier with his boastings
who has perhaps been one of many that has done to
death some little elephant calf with a rifle volley, or perched
in security with his companions in a tree or trees round a
water hole, have murdered the king of beasts while taldi^
his evening drink.
The character of the two people can readily be judged
by the means they practise in their manner of sport, and
although the ordinary Abyssinian and Galla is capably under
English tuition, of being made into a decent sort of fellow,
he lacks that chivalry that is inherent to the majority of the
Arabs, and makes the latter what they truly are, namely,
fine specimens of nature's sportsmen and gentlemen.
When the Arab goes on his hunting expedition, he leaves
his &mily and flocks behind, and sets out with some dozen
mounted companions, perhaps half of them will take part in
the hunting, the others will look out af^ the spare horses
SHOOTING IN ABYSSINIA
441
and the b.iggagc camels taken with them. While some are
following the game, the others remain in camp and prepare
the skins, and dry the meat of the animals that fall to the
weapons of the swordsmen. A camp within easy reach of
water is chosen, it being generally in some clump of trees in
close proximity to Ki'ass for the horses, and mimosa trees for
the camels, their favourite food, and these trees can easily be
turned into a zarecba, so that at night the horses and camels
can be protected from the prowling wild beasts that are
attracted from a long distance by the smell of the drying
meat The flesh is merely cut into long strips about an inch
square, and hung on the mimosa or other trees, which are soon
festooned all over, it is soon thoroughly dried by the great
heat of the sun, and it is then pack^ in mat or grass bags
for transport back to their settlements. Very little of the
meat goes had, as the sun is so powerful it kills the eggs of
the blow flics before they turn into maggots, and when the
meat is once dry, the outside of the strips become so hard
that it is impcr\-ious to fly ; however, the great pest in Africa
to all dried meat, also horns, hides and skins, the common
bacon bectli-, makes short work of it unless care is taken.
The hides of the large and thick-skinned animals are
cut into pieces to be turned into shields, for which there is
still a good demand, and also into long strips for making
Courbatches, for which there is ,i larger. The skins of the
smaller animals are used for water skins or grain bags and
are tanned roughly on the spot, with the bark of a mountain
mimosa, and then on return from the hunting expedition are
6nished by the women, who expend very often a great deal
of labour on them, and turn out excellent waterproof bags
which make very good receptacles for clothes, etc, and are
better and more suitable to them for loading and transport
than boxes,
The way the skins are taken oflT the smaller animals is
curious — one long incision is made from the tail to above
either of the hind hocks, the two hind legs are then brought
out through the opening, and the skin stripped ofT in one
piece. The fore legs arc cut off at the knees, and the head
is cut off at the place where the throat is cut when the animal
is killed, according to Mahomcdan custom. To make the
skin water-tight in case of its being required to contain water,
milk or grain, it only requires the three tegs being tied and
one scam from the tail to the hock sewn up. The neck is
used to (ill the skin and when nearly full is firmly tied.
442 MODERN ABYSSINIA
When wanted for making a raft to cross the rivers, the neck
is closed and made water-t^ht and. the inflatioD made
through either of the fore legs. Abcui a dozen of these
skins will make a good raft and enable perishable goods to
be ferried across a river without getting wet I suppose that
this method of flotation is the most ancient in the worid and
was practised from the earliest ages.
The native on a military or hunting expedition is not Vks
a European requiring Berthon boats or pontoons to make
bridges, for with a few inflated skins with ambatch or atba
light wood, which he can procure close at hand, he soon
makes himself a raft. In Abyssinia, even in the height of the
rains, when all the rivers are in flood, it is possible for natives
to cross on rafts in many places. This is done t^ making
detours and choosing the stretches of unbroken water where
the Bood runs deep, generally in the rocky goi^es which are
found in every Abyssinian tributary to Uie Blue Nile, and
Atbara or Black Nile. The rivers and streams are im-
passable for months during the rainy season by fording, and
many lives every year are lost in attempting to cross while
the waters are coming down in full spate.
The outfit of the native on a hunting expedition is not
very extensive. Spear, shield, sword and knife, being tbe
only arms taken ; he wears a tobe of Manchester cloth many
yards long, which was once white, but soon gets nearly of
the same tint as the sand or earth on which he sleeps. If
the possessor of a fine fuzzy head of hair, he also goes in for
the luxury of one piece of furniture, the small wooden pillow
to keep his ringlets from the dirt This pillow h^ not
changed its shape for thousands of years, the one in present
use being identically of the same pattern as those dug up in
Egypt in the old burial grounds, or found with the mummies
that now adorn so many of the numerous museums of the
old and new world. His wooden saddle is of the same shape
as it was centuries ago, and the horse's back is protected by
some goat or sheep skin as of old, and between the rider and
the saddle there may be an extra tobe to cover him when
the early mornings are chilly. The cruel iron ring bit, by
which he can throw a horse back on its haunches, the nearly
oval iron stirrup, only laige enough to hold the big toe, are
similar to those that have been the custom for generations ;
fashions have not changed, nor improvements been made in
this country, nor will they till the race dies out, and the best
English saddle to them is not so much thought of as their
SHOOTING IN ABYSSINIA
443
old high pommel wooden frame-work, made out of the hard
accada or hegleck tree. The saddle consists of one oval
pjece for the seat, joined by two flat pieces to tlie pommel, and
is of an inverted Y shape ; the whole kept together with raw
hide and covered with the skin of a small antelope, sheep or
goat The stimip, leathers, crupper and girth, arc of bullock
skin, and the bridle and head stall of twisted hide.
Both the commissariat and the cooking utensils are of the
t meagre description, and consist of an iron or earthen-
ware pot to boil the meat in, another perhaps to boil the grain
'n, which consists mostly of dhurra, or perhaps as a treat a
e rice, and an iron plate to roast chtipatties or cakes made
from (lour and water. Some dhurra, flour, and a few bags
of grain are taken ; a mat or two of dates, and a small skin
or two of ghee, or clarified butter. This is all the food they
require, their bcver:^e is water, and sometimes at night-time
and at daylight a little coffee is taken, sweetened with sugar,
and failing that, with honey. Uoilcd meat with dhurra or rice,
meat toasted over the embers or roasted on red-hot stones,
and a bread made by mixing the dhurra flour into a paste
and rolling the paste round a very hot stone and placmg it
near the embers, the internal and external heat soon cooking
it through, are their most frequent dishes. Matches arc very
valuable and it is not often they have them ; when they are
absent, the flint and steel is made use of, and when they
fail. Are is procured by friction ; a hard dry wood being used
as the spindle, worked on a softer kind which easily powders.
Should suitable wood be found, which is generally the case, a
very few minutes suffices to get a fire. The friction produces
heat enough to ignite tinder or very dry powdered grass,
from whkh the fire is produced. I explain this as I have
often heard of people trying to get fire direct from two pieces
of wood and expecting to sec one of the woods flare up,
whereas the spark is the only thing that these people try for,
and the only thing I believe they can produce. Fires do not
have to be lighted very frequently, only on changing camp,
as from the time they settle in one place and the Are is
once started it is never allowed to die down, large logs being
employed so as to accumulate plenty of aslies which are used
to prepare the skins and hides of the animals slain. If they
are hunting in a country that they consider unsafe they never
l^ht a fire, as the smoke attracts the attention of their
enemies, wlio are generally of the Danakil Shangalla and
Baze tribes. The feud between these people is of long
444 MODERN ABYSSINIA
standing, and these pagans are much feared as their weapon
is the bow with poisoned arrows shot from some ambush.
The other household goods taken by the natives are a few
mats, either used as a carpet or to make a shade during the
heat of die day when the leaves are off the trees, or as a screen
against the wind and drifting sand at night-time ; a few native-
made axes for felling the thorn trees, of which they make tibar
zarecbas, and plenty of native rope and string made from the
fibres of the aloe or the usha plant, an asclepiad. I have
foi^otten to mention tobacco ; this is rarely smoked, but the
leaf is made into snuff, and mixed with wood ash and takes
into the mouth and placed between the under lip and lower
front teeth, or under the tongue. They consume prod^ious
quantities of this, and they claim that it drives off bui^rer,
prevents sickness, and also acts as a stimulant There is no
doubt that tobacco drives away hunger, as I have tried it on
many occasions when I have been without food, and with
good results.
It is as well to mention their commissariat, as futOK
travellers will know what to provide for these people wha
visiting the country. Their wants are few, and they are
not as expensive to keep as a large number of coast
servants ; however, their food becomes a serious item if
game is scarce, as they have most healthy appetites and
will eat twice as much as an ordinary native. Only cm one
of my last visits I shot a full-grown Dorcas gazelle, a buck
which must have weighed at least $0 lbs., and the five men
that were with me finished it during the noonday halt,
and at supper time they were ready for more.
The sword hunter's day is generally passed as follows :—
some half dozen of them mounted leave their camp as soM
as it gets light enough to see, watering their horses at the
nearest pool or river, as the game to be followed generally
takes the direction away from the water during the day-
time, and it may be that the horses will have a hot day
before them without being able to obtain supplies. If no
large game has visited the drinking places during the night,
some of the men make for the highest ground that is to
be found and there look out, while the others spread out
to look for any spoor. Supposing the tracks of a herd or
a single elephant are found, silent signals are made for ^
men to assemble, and then the band follow quickly aAet
It may be that the jungle is thick, and slow progrev «~^
can be mad^ owii^ to the denseness of the uncEi
SHOOTING IN ABYSSINIA
445
me
i
the stony nature of the soil, which leaves no impress of
c elephants passing- It may seem astonishing to many
At such a large animal should leave no trace behind, no
matter what the nature of the soil, but unless there has been
in or a hca^-y dew I have seen the traces of a whole herd
'anish, and the best of trackers at fault, not being able to
d a mark cither on the ground or on the bushes, and
itirely lose the way the game has taken, and the tracks
only a^ain found after a long ca^t has been made. If a
herd of elephants on the move are feeding, of course they
leave signs on the trees by breaking branches, but if they
arc suspicious of being followed, they leave off feeding, no
matter what tender morsels may come in their way.
Conversation among the followers is carried on in a
whispvcT, and their unshod horses make little or no noise
in going over the ground at a walk. At last the game is
stghtwt most likely enough in bush through which it is
impossible to ride, and then a long wait has to take place
until the animal or animals move off on to more open
round where an attack can be delivered with some chance
f success.
In the meantime the huntsmen make their last prepara-
and see that everything is ready, this docs not take
as their clothes consist ot their tobe, which has been
\y girded round their waist, their sword, which is one
the ordinary pattern usually used by the Soudan tribes-
men, and now so well known in England, has been drawn,
and the scabbard either fastened out of the way on the
saddle, or given to some one to hold ; it has been carried
hitherto either slung from the shoulder, handle forward,
blade behind, and kept steady to the body by the arm, or
between the bare leg and the saddle.
The men who do not make the attack, three generally
being considered ample, and very often only two arc employed
(if more mounted men took part in the fight they would only
get in each other's way and very likely cause accidents),
follow some distance behind, and take charge of the ^vatcr
skins, shields, and spears, which arc used to give, if required,
the death wound to the animal. The spears arc gencrAlly
of the broad bladed kind, weighted at the butt with iron,
and they are sometimes .^een among the trophies brought
from the Soudan. The shaA of the spear Is much stouter
than the ordinary war spear, and are from seven to eight
e blade and base of the iron work being a
^
MODERN ABYSSINIA
little more than a Toot Jn length, by perhaps five iaches
In breadth. The shaft is made of the tough lateral roots
of the common desert mimtxia tree, which is nearly impossible
to break and diDicuIt to bend.
The moment having arrived when the quany has moved
into ground on which the swordsmen can work, a dash is
made out of the bush on the unsuspecting animal, and what
with the noise of the shouttn); of the men, with their calls
on Allah, and Sheik Abdul Cadcr (the Moslem patron saint
of the chase and the desert), and tlie galloping of the horses,
the quarry cither wheels round to see what is the matter,
or at once makes off at the best pace possible. The whole
affair may be over as quickly as the account of it takes to
read. The first pursuing man, as soon as he gets into the
required position, makes one cut at the back part of the
hind leg just above the foot and makes off, the pace that
the horse is going taking him in a moment out of harm's
way. If the blow reaches home the elephant is hamstrung,
and loses the use of the leg thai is wounded ; the next man
following makes a dash at the other ieg, and if he succeeds
the poor beast comes to a standstill, unable to move,
trumpeting with impotent rage, and is at the mercy of the
swordsmen, who dismount and wait for the arrival of the
men with the spear to put the animal to death. This is
done by approaching the elephant from behind and inserting
the sharp spear through the soft skin between the hind Icp
and thrusting it home, internal bleeding takes place and
in a short time its sufferings arc over.
Should, however, the first man miss his stroke, and only
sliglitly wound the animal, and the second man do the same,
then commences, if the elephant is a good-plucked one, •
fight that lasts for some time ; the elegant becoming the
aggressor and pursuing the horsemen, their safety depending
on the fleetness and activity of their mounts. Many of the
horses enter into the spirit of the hunt, and are very clever
in dodging round the trees and bushes, and know to a
nicety how near they can go and judging how far behind
the elephant is, that is following them. The elephant iKrfaapi
will come to a standstill (unless he can reacn ihIcK cover
where he is safcX with his back to a thick bush or low tnx,
which .Tiakes it impossible for the horsemen to deliver, dtlicr
mounted or on foot, the fatal disabling cut, and stands with
his ears outspread and hts trunk stretched out, ready to
charge anything thiit comes near. He then has to be temptvl
I
«
SHOOTING IN ABYSSINIA
447
m
t of his position, which is done by one of them galloping
t within a few yards, perhaps it takes several attempts
fore the animal is got to charge, and the last will be
ithiii a few ffct of the outstretched trunk, the others are
ady on either side in rear of the animal to dash at him the
oment he leaves his comparative place of safety.
The disabling blow is sometimes delivered on foot, the
untsman, on getting alongside, jumping off his horse when
at full speed, while the elephant is intent on following the
man who has galloped past him. If on foot, the blow is
made with both hands grasping the sword, one on the
handle, the other on the crossbar of tlic hilt, with the first
Bngcr stretched out on the flat of the blade to steady it.
The horse that has been dismounted gets away to a short
distance, and stops until his master comes up and vaults into
the saddle, and he again follows after the elephant
These manceuvrcs may often have to be repeated many
mes before the elephant is secured, or perhaps at last gets
away from liis pursuers with only a nasty wound on his 1^.
he elephant has the advantage in the thick jungle through
hich he paitses without difficulty, and where a horse cannot
follow, in the open the fight generjiUy ends in favour of the
swordsmen. Accidents generally take place, but they do not
occur frequently, owing to the foolhardiness of the hunters
engaging in the combat in the dense bush, or by getting
among a herd, when several may charge at the same time,
especially when many females are present with their young.
The accident occurs from a horse stumbling, or the rider
being dismounted by being knocked off by some branch
of a tree and is then trampled to death by the pursuing
animal. The solitary males are the ones generally brought
to bay, and the hunters nirely fail to kill them, and often,
if elephants are numerous, an expedition will yield them
fair number of pairs of tusks.
"Old father two UiU,"' as the Arab calls the elephant,
IS a cunning animal, and when once he has been wounded
and gets away, nothing will tempt him again to leave thick
cover when men and horses are following him. I have heard
these hunters say that they know several enormous old
"tuskers" that they can never get at or tempt out in the
open and neither could their fathers or grandfathers ; this Is
likely enough, considering the age to which the elephant lives,
and his intelligence and wonderful memory are well known
to every one.
^rffii
448
MODERN ABYSSINIA
it is rarely that the natives get a second chance at
the same herd in the same season, as when once disturbed
they jjo an immense distance during a single night, perhaps
sixty miles or more in a bee line through a terrible count^,
before they halt. It is only in the dry season that these
expeditions take place, as immediately after the rains the
jungle t>ecomes impenetrable, owing to the trees and bushes
being in full leaf, and the grass and undergrowth springing
up 90 as to eflTcctuaity hide the game paths. The game,
however, during the wet season, is more often found in
the open during the daytime, as the weather is cloudy and
the sun hidden for hours at a time, and they can Und shade
and food an>'wherc. The open ground is the first to dry up
and long after the grass is dead there it is to be found
comparatively fresh and green in the jungle, which then
becomes the favourite feeding-ground.
There is another reason also why the natives cannot
remain in the jungle during the rains, namely, the Qy which
I mention in another part of this book. The tetse exists,
but equally as bad as the tetse are the seroot and horse 6ics,
which arc no doubt slightly poisonous and torment domestic
animals to such an extent that they cannot feed during the
daytime, and it is impossible to allow them to locd at n^fat
owing to the wild animals. Nearly all the beds of the streams
and khors are full of fly, and it is only on the barren ground
where they are in small numbers. Tlie wild animals do not
seem to be tormented by the fly to such an extent as the
domestic ones, but the thin-skinned and shoTt-h;iired antelopes
.•itiU sufTer and keep well away from the khors during tlie day-
time, and graze on the higher stony ground which, during the
rains, bears a crop of short herbage and swcct-smclUng plants.
The sportsman who would run the risk of fever would get
good sport in the low country during the height of the rams,
as tracking becomes so easy and there would not be the
time lost in following and losing the tracks like there is in
the dry season,* The low country is not so very unhealthy
during the height of the rains as it is at the commence
ment when the ground is being saturated, and at the end
the rains when the country b drying and the vcgetatton
decomposing.
* He wDsId, bowwn, Imm to shuot on foot u h« wooVI Inw hli ildiag
trtnqwti knimalt from tbt fljr, but be inig;h( dcp^'' <"> ilnnkein fo( Um I
wofk be would require in nwwiBS thinp, m lUi boMt iwi to «ttStf Um
*ay of ihc oUior*.
SHOOTING IN ABYSSINIA
449
The huntsmen of course look upon the eleph.int as being
the chief source of profit, and do not hunt ^ny otlier animal
when there is a chance of procuring ivory. Its hide is not
of the best, but still makes good shields and whips. After
the elephant the rhinoceros is next sought after, and he is
nearly as dangerous as the former, and in spite of his un-
wieldy shape travels when fairly roused at a great pace, and
is much swifter than the former. There is always a good
market for his bonis, which are turned into drinking cups,
the efficacy of which as a preventative to poison there arc
many absurd legends about both among the Chri.ttian and
Moslem population. For example, both the Abyssinians and
Mahomedans believe, that if a poisoned drink is offered in a
cup made of rhinoceros horn that it will split with a loud re-
port. The poisoner would also be aware oi this, and therefore
if wishing to get rid of anyone it would be the last method
he would adopt to carry out his end, and would not present
poison in a vessel of this sort. They also believe that drink-
ing out of a cup made of this horn strengthens the back and
makes them certain of procuring children. A handle to a
sword made out of the horn enables a stronger blow to be
given, and will enable an enemy's guard to be broken down,
and there arc many more wonders to be accompli.'ihed by
its use.
The rhinoceros is sometimes found asleep, and if not
disturbed by the birds that arc often found accompanying it
is hamstrung without moving from its place of rest ; other-
wise it gives a good run and very often escapes to the thick
bush before it is ovcrtakeii, and then gets clear away, Its
hide is one of the strongest of all, and makes very tough
shields, but they are of a great weight and not so handy as
those of a lighter kind, which turn a sword cut or spear
thrust equally as well.
The buffalo is always a dangerous animal to attack and
solitary old bulls are generally left alone, as their meat is
inferior, and the risk of getting a favourite horse killed not
being equivalent to the value of their hide ; young bulls and
cows are, however, slain, as they are not so vicious and are
easier killed. We may perhaps talk of this animal in the
past tense, as from the last accounts from the places where
it was numerous, it is said to have been exterminated by the
rindeipest and not one Ls to be seen anywhere. It is to
be hoped, however, that .some few have been spared. The
history of this epidemic, if ever it is written, will be a most
2P
450
MODERN AHYSSINIA
interesting one, »s the contagion could not h^ive spread
from the domestic cattle to thi.s particular wild animal, and
as it seems to have prevailed from Cairo to Cape Town, the
germs must have been spread by the wind and not by con-
tact from one animal to another.
The giraffe is greatly prized, the hide making the finest,
toughest and lightest of shields, and the meat considered the
best of all the laige animals. There is absolutely no danger
in attacking these animals, and many of the young ones used
to be captured by these hunters and -'«old to the European
dealers at Kassala and other places, who forwarded them to
Kuropc. Tliis animal is still reported to exist in fairly large
numbers in the neighbourhood of the Walkeit country.
The ostrich is also hunted, and many of them are killed
for their feathers, which find a ready market at all the settle-
ments ; the big white plumes of the wild cock ostrich being
finer and command a much higher price than those plucked
from the tame birds. Their fat is also greatly esteemed, as
it is supposed, when rutted into the body, to be a good thing
for rheumatism and sprains ; it also .sells for a high price ia
the native bazaars. As many as a dozen men and boys set
cut at a time to hunt these birds, and the bo>-s and light-
wciRhts arc generally chosen to do the driving and makiM
the first bursts at full speed, which tire out the birds, tiU
they at last fall an easy prey to those mounted on compara-
tively fresh horses tliat have not galloped a long distance
It is impossible to tame a full-grown wild ostricfa, ami those
run down are always killed.
The party set out in the early morning, and on sighting
the ostriches, often at a great distance, a halt is made aod
the arrangement of the drive decided ; the chief object is
to get the birds between the hills and the line of horsemen,
as the birds always try to keep in the open plains ; they as
a rule invariably run up wind, so that they must pass close
to some of the line of horsemen. The line of direction of
the extension being decided on, tlic horsemen keep some half-
mile apart, and on places being taken up. the light-wcighta
st-irt at a canter and approach the birds, who on sighting the
horsemen commence to make off. At first the stride of the
birds is short ; on the pursuers getting nearer they lengthen
their pace and arc soon going at full speed, followed by the
]ight-weights flogging their honies and putting them at tbe
top of their spcnl. Then a second light-wctght who ha»
been keeping [jarallel to the line of chase, when the birds
i
SHOOTING IN ABYSSINIA
451
get opposite him dashes at them and keeps them at full
speed, the first pursuers casing their mounts and only keep*
ii^ the chase in sJght. It may be that after five or six of
them have made these bursts and kept the pace at high
pressure the ostriches bcRin to Rct tired ; this is soon seen,
and the end of the line of horsemen being on comparatively
(rcsh animals, can drive the now thoroughly bewildered and
beaten birds in any direction they choose, which is of course
towards camp.
The young men and boys are generally schooled at
o^triclies and the latter antelopes before they attack tai^cr
game, but there Ls one antelope that I have seen ridden
down, the bcisa or oryx, that neither young nor old care
much atwut tackling on account of its activit)', and charging
when hard pressed with its formidable long and sharp horns.
Perhaps this beast is really more dangerous than any other
animal, and although men generally escape a fatal blow when
they charge, their mounts arc generally killed. There are
few animals that dare molest iTiis beast, and not even the
lion, unless hard prct-ted with hunger, cares about attacking it.
The natives say that in the breeding season the males often
kill each otlier, the one that can get his boms first home
generally transfixing his adversary.
The lion is not molested by these hunters unless he
becomes a nuisance, and takes to levying heavy toll on
their flocks, or killing human beings. In this case all the
best of the sAord hunters assemble and trace him to his
noonday lair, where a combat takes place that must be
6t for a king to look upon, and it is certain no known sport
in any other part of the globe can equal it ; 1 went twice
on these expeditions but we drew blank. My pen cannot
half des<:nl>e the scene, and with the exception of G. D.
Giles, who as a sportsman and an artist Is second to none
{the details of his pictures being always correct, even geo^
graphically and botanically), I know of no painter who
could put on canvas a work that would approach doing
iustice to the subject.
The huntsmen arm themselves with shield and spear,
and shield and sword. The shield to be used to partly
ward off the glancing blow of the lion's paw, and to break
its force and prevent its claws from getting home when
dashing past the animal at a great pace and at an angle i
no shield that was ever made, or no human being that
used it, could stop a direct blow or meet a blow from a
452
MODETIN ATJYSSIXIA
full-grown lion, so it it never ridden at direct Tbe at
of the approaching mounted men is enough to put the
lion on the alert, .and then the excitement commences ; bow
the fight begins depends on circumstances. The lion would
hardly take the initiative unless he w.as of a very savage
disposition, or had learnt to despise men by having formerly
had such easy tasks in killing them. If he declined to give
battle he would try to escape by keeping to the thick bush
and passing the clearings or more open ground at a quick
trot or with several bounds. To attack him with the best j
chance of success he must be got into the open groand, or ^|
on grouitd tliat is only sparsely covered with bush, and to ^
do so he must be thoroughly roused and excited, which the
shouting of tlic huntsmen may fail in doing. Then tlie only
way left is to get him wounded so that he may be made to
charge, and this is done by those horsemen that are armed
with the light throwing spear, dashing post the place he is
hiding in and throwing their spears at him. A single spear
inflicting a wound will make htm mad with rage, and he then
makes for his nearest enemy, who trusts to the speed of his
horse to keep him out of danger. While the lion is in
pursuit other horsemen gallop after him and try to cross
obliquely to get a cut at the back leg or wound him by
throwing a spear ; if they followed in a direct line to his
course and the lion suddenly stopped and turned an aod-
dent would be sure to happen, but crossing the line he is taking
enables the rider to be carried by the pace his horse is going
out of reach of the lion's spring. The lion in time gets
thoroughly tired and pcrhaj>s has received several spoir
wounds ; at la.tt one of the horsemen succeeds in making a
cut at the hind 1^ which brings the lion at the mercy of
his enemies, and he is either speared or bleeds to death.
The b.attlc is over, and the perspiring and dust-begrimed
huntsmen .-isscmble round the slain, abusing its father and
mother and the whole of its kind, and what a scene of real
savage warfare has taken place, and what excitement while
the fifiht has been going on. A picture can only depict one
of the scenes, perhaps the last moment of all, when the
dismounted bronze-coloured horsemen with their lop-knois
and curly hair, many of them perhaps as naked as the day
they were horn, having lost their loin cloth in the fight, ore
standing round their fallen foe, their horses nearly bcal by
the eflorts they have made. The location of the Agltt moit
likely has taken place in a mimosa dotted, hard bruurn plain.
i
SHOOTING FN ABYSSINIA
453
nth belts of slightly green " tabas " grass in the water ways ;
in tlie distance a range of light purple colourc-d hills ; over-
'head a bright blue sky, flecked with white fleecy clouds, and
all ligh(c<l up with brilliant African sunshine, ft is hard
to say which to admire most, the pluck of the horse or its
Trider. The Soudan horse is a courageous animal, and, I am
sorry to say. as a rule badly treated.
Compare this to our Kngiish idea of lion killing — perhaps
a momentary glimpse of the king of beasts ; one shot from a
modern rifle, and all over ; or at the most a hit, then following
up the wounded animal, a charge, a couple of shots, and (he
lion dead within a few yards of the shooter. Let me give
another side of the picture, as there is sometimes one as well :
a hit, a chaise, a miss, or the lion not stopped in time — a
short struggle and then a burial ; the place being marked by
a heap of stones, and the only mention at home a short
obituary notice in the Times.
There arc other kinds of hunters in Abyssinia and the low
country of which little or nothing is known. They arc looked
down upon by everyone as being savages, inlidcls and un-
clean. I have seen them on several occasions, but have had
little or no chance to get intimate with, or And out all about
them. They shun the society of all, for the reason that no
one wants to have anything to do with them. My overtures
to them have always been well received, and 1 have found
thent very grateful for small kindnesses, and should have no
hesitation in accompanying or trusting myself with them any-
where I have dealt with these people fully on page 539.* so
it is only required to mention their manner of hunting, which
is by poison, and that all sorts of game fall to the small
arrows which they employ. The ostrich is killed at nesting-
time mostly, as it is watched when leaving its nest, and the
hunter then makes a hole in the sand close by and there
awaits its return. I have asked these hunters whether they
ever wear and make use of the skin of tlie bird to approach
the others, and they say tljey do not ; but will arrange a
dead bird on the ground in as natural a manner as
possible, fastening its head and neck up with a stick, so
as to act as a decoy while they lay hidden some thirty yards
oC
The bow made use of is very rigid and about five feet in
* I Ihiok thai Iheic |io0|ilc witlKiul iloubi an jripaict ; darkei raibcs tn com-
' m ihan ih« Eoto^win ona, ow'atf tu faavine Hivfil Ibc wbok of itwir live*
! mpia. Tbejr arc nedily idMUoU to tbe itcmtHm 5li(l>«ii».
434
MODERN ABYSSINIA
Icngtb ; the arrows which I have by mc are about fourteen
inches toni; and arc feathered as ours are in Kngland, the
iron points bcin^ of dilTcrent patterns, and the poison smeared
on thickly under the barb« which are either harpoon shaped
or the iron stem roughly notched. With this insignificant
weapon they can kill any animal that exists, from the
smallest to the elephant, the latter succumbing in a few
hours. These men follow the game by stealth or sit up in
some tree and wait till it passes to deliver their fatal arrow,
a most uninteresting spcdcs of sport
The poison used is made from the boiled roots of an
evergreen tree, which is found growing at an altitude of from
2COO to 5ocx> feet above the sea level, and is common all
round the Abyssinian high lands.
The Abyssinian, besides killing game with the rifle and
gun, does a little snaring ; setting nooses for the smaller
antelope, the same as used by the poacJier in England to
catch hares and rabbits. These are generally set tn the paths
and runs round the cultivated fields, the small antelopct
doing a great deal of damage to the young crops when they
are first sprouting. Guinea-fowl and francolin arc likewise
caught in hair snares placed on the ground, and are brought
alive for sale to the Europeans, to Asmara ami Hassowah id
the colony of Krithrca.
The hyena and jackal arc not trapped as in the Soudan,
as the Abyssinian houses all his catltc at night-time, and
tlicsc scavengers are very useful, eating the bodies of all dead
animals that the people arc too lazy to bury. During the
last big cattle epidemic these animals had more than they
could eat, and in many places the whole air was tainted, and
the germs of the disease were Hprcad. H:td they immediately
buried or burnt the bodies, there is no doubt that many more
of the cattle would have been saved.
I believe that the Abyitsinians are the only people who
noose the leopard for their skins and not becaune they arc
destructive, as it is seldom they do any great hann to the
flocks in the highlands, especially when monkc>'s arv to
plentiful, and the duikers and cu-ibls so easily captured.
The leopard in the low lands is a great deal bolder and mtwc
dangerous than those that live in the mountains. The trvp
is generally set in one of the enormous sycamore fig-trees
which are so common throughout the country, or any b^
tree that overhangs a building Is chosen. Prickly buibc* are
cut down and laid round the trunk of tlie tree, fcaviog only
SHOOTING IN ABYSSrNlA 455
one opening by which the stem can be approached, and
that not more than two feet wide. A strong but pliable
branch is then bent down from the tree and pc^cd to the
^carth with a catch ; a rope made of the strongest fibre, or of
^Kwtstcd hide with six to eight feet ol copper wire (irmly
^nttached to the end is then attached to the branch, and the
^'loop of copper wire ti> put into position in the run ; the trap
then acts as an ordinary springe and the leopard is caught
* round the neck ; his attempts to get the wire off his neck
;nrithdniw the peg that holds the brancli to the ground, and
its strength jerks the leopard from its feet, and it either has
its neck broken at once or dies of strangulation.
The bait employed is a very young kid or lamb, which is
tied to the tree or placed in one of the lower branches near
the stem and it naturally keeps up an incessant bleating
l^wishing to return to its mother, and of course on a still night
^■ean be heard at a great distance and attracts the hungry
^■leopard. Cases very often occur when the leopard is not
caught by the neck, but behind the shoulders or j\ist in front
of tlie hind legs round the stomach, and then he U <(U.'ipcn<lcd
in the air some four or five feet perhaps from the ground.
The noise he makes with his cries and struggles to get
tree awakes the people in the neighbouring cottages.
and if it is a dark night they light torches, and then go
[to the snared animal and cither spear him or club him
de;ith with their quarter staves made of heavy tough
The same plan is resorted to if the trap is set in the
Izarcba that encloses the buildings; the thorn bushes arc
moved so the leopard can leap on one of the buildings where
the kid is fastened to the roof; an adjacent bough being
used as a spring or the rope only fastened to some beam
belonging to the house, and when the leopard springs down
ftom the roof the wire loop tightens. I had often seen
leopard skins showing no trace of a wound and imagined
tthat the aniniaLs had been poisoned ; they were entirely with-
iout holes except the skinning slit that I have described
before in this chapter, but I never believed that they were
ikiUed in this manner.
Although I have not actua3)y seen one caught, I have
' seen the body of a leopard a few hours after it had been
Ei.:ii_.j [p (iijj. fl,ay_ and I have seen the traps ready for .setting
cveral occasions. It takes two or three men to bend
1 the branch to the requisite position, and another to
456 MODERN ABYSSINIA
set the trap. It only wants a very short time idien once
the noose is tightly round its neck for an animal that has its
two front legs off the ground to strangle. It cannot get
much purchase with its teeth on the copper wire so that it
can bite it in two, nor can the claws nujce any impression
on it, as they slip off the wire which gets between the joints
of the paws. Leopard skins can be purchased in nearly every
market in Abyssinia, and they sometimes can be had in
great numbers at reasonable prices.
CHAPTER XXI
OUTFIT AND RIFLES
TPHE question of what kind of rifles are required for
■*■ shooting the different kinds of game found in this
country is a matter of opinion, and I do not think th;it any
two sportsmen would entirely agree on the subject, and I
certainly should never offer to give any one advice and try
to induce him to stick to any particular kind of rifle if he
fancied another kind. 1 always think as lonf; as one is
armed with a good rifle with plenty of penetration that it is
not the fault of the weapon if kills do not result, but that of
the man who is behind it, that is to say if the bullet can be
relied on. How many times have I heard men say, " Oh I
cannot shoot with this gun, it is not a good one." No man
goes out siiooting with a new pair of boots on that never have
been worn, and no man ought to be so reckless as to go out
with a new rifle that he has never shot before to shoot at
dangerous game. No man can walk properly in a pair of
boots that do not fit, and no man can shoot at flrst with a
Dcw gun that is either too long or too short for him in the
stock ; the same holds good with a rifle, and more care
should be taken to get a proper fit with the latter than with
the former, as it is not target practice but snap shooting that
is required.
I have shot with muutc-loading rifles of small and large
calibre ; the largest, one of Sir Samuel Baker's babies that
he used to kill elephants with in Ceylon. With breech-
loaders, commencing with a double-barrel rifle, No. lO bore,
of great weight, until the modem -303 came into fashion,
passing through the stajjc of Express -577 and -450, Sport-
ing Snider. Sporting Martini-llcnry and many others, the
penetration of 303 is the greatest of all and, if the bullet is
put in the right place, answers every purpose, as no animal
possesses a head hard enough to stop it.
When I go on my next visit to Africa and into the big
game country. I shall take one of the new '400 bore rifles,
*»
498
MODEUN AHYSSIXIA
as on paper it seems to be more powcrfid than any of the old
rifles, and a '305, and of course a common 12 bore shotgun
for small fitr and feather, for which I shall go to Messrs
Bland & Sons, as t have shot with their weapons for many
years and I cm find no fatilt with them. The '400 bore I
shall use for dangerous game, the other for its range, accuracy
and penetration and its general handincss and light weight.
The 12 bore shotgun should not be a choke, as a few bullet
cartridges always come in handy, and often when out shoot-
ing small game for the pot something big is unexpectedly
come across.
My experience of the old -joj bullet used and served out
to the troops for the government rifle is that it never can be
dejwnded upon to stop anything, as it all depends where it
strikes what sort of a wound It makes. It Is fatal if it strikes
the head, and it often pulverises any Wg bone if it catches it
direct ; but it will pass through soft tissues without lioing any
harm, and half-a-dozen holas in an animal (or even in a
savage man) need not necessarily do any great damage or
render it harmless, which is the object one always has in
view. Sentimental ism should never be allowed to enter Into
sport or war against savages, which are both undertaken for
tile sake of killing; and I do not believe, nor do I believe
that anyone else honestly docs, in the theory' that weapons
sliould be used so as to make as light a wound as possible.
Continental Kuropc may wish it, and may make rcmvlct
at our wickedness in using the dum-<luin, which is a really
first • class destroyer and the most humane expanding
non-explosive bullet t have as yet seen for a small-calibre
rifle. Tt h an excellent buHct to stop a dangerou* wild
animal or a wild man. and no doubt will be used -with good
effect on any of EngLind's invaders.
I was shooting la.1t year with one of Bland's -303 rifle*
with dum-dum bullets also manufactured by tlie same flrm,^
and the cfl'ccts of them were all that could be desired, many^l
of the antelope collapsing as they stood or, if on the move,^^
never going further than a few yards, and that only from the
impetus ihey had on when they were struck. Some of the
natives laughed at the idea of such a small bullet doing any
harm, but when they saw the results ibey Raid the devtl
wu inside of it. The dum-dum bullet, which, perhaps ffljr
non-sporting renders do not know, mushrormis when It atrik
anything hard enough to break the outside nickel envelope,
and on entering an animal it makes a hole of very miaJl
OUTFIT AND RIFLES
459
dimensions and a very large one if it comes out on the
opposite side and has met any very hard substance in its
course. If it does not penetrate the animal altt^cthcr, it Li
more often than not found on the opposite side to the point
of entrance, the nickel case very much expanded and with
shaq> and ragged edges.
1 killed a "gerenhuk" antelope, a large buck, while it
was running at a distance of over three hundred paces ;
breaking the near shoulder and shattering the bones of the
i (ar shoulder, and bringing out of the wound part of the
internal organs and bones. This anima) collapsed into the
bush be was passing. Not a vestige of the nickel or lead
core of the bullet could be found in the animal. If the
expanded bullet had struck an animal on the far side it
would have inflicted a terrible wound. I also shot a big
pig, » boar with a very tough hide ; it was standing tail
on at a measured distance of one hundred and twenty-five
jrards ; the bullet broke one of its hind thighs in the thickest
part, traversed the whole of tlic body and entirely smashed
the fore shoulder on the opposite side, bringing out part of
the lungs. This animal simply rolled over and never moved,
and the buUct, after passing through, struck a rock some ten
yards further on and was splintered into fragments.
I I could give many examples of the smashing power of
the '303 rifle with the dum-dum bullet, but they would
interest few people. I am convinced that in the hands of a
good sportsman and shot that ils killing powers are ample
for both soft and hard skinned animals, and I would have no
hesiuilion in using it against elephant, buffalo or lion, and
in preference to a heavy rifle with a heavy <iiargc. It is a
pleasure, when shooting in a hot country with many mountains
that have to be gone up or down, to have a light rifle in which
one can have full confidence, and I do not think that a single-
barrel magazine rifle is a drawback, and it is seldom that a
second shot is flrcd without rcsighting. Granted that a
double-barrel rifle is quicker by a couple of seconds than a
single-barrel magazine in getting a second shot, tlie latter is
far more rapid after the second shot, and afterwards the
double-barrel has not a " look in" in the race for rapidity.
I am not an advocate for shooting solid bullets out of a
■303 rifle at any game, as, unless they go through the brain
or heart or divide the main artery of the throat, they will not
stop or cripple an animal, and it would be simply a fool's
bosincss to use them at dangerous game. I have given the
460
MODERN ABVSSINIA
solid bullet an ample trial, and it is a rare thing to bag a soft-
skinned antelope wounded by it, and I do not believe that
one gets five per cent of one's hits. My mounted servants
have often followed animals for miles without bcin^ able to
come up with them, and have reported on their return that
although they have found blood tracks the wounded beast
was going as strong as ever. I regret that 1 had to make the
experiment as I must have caused an unnecessary amount of
pain in gaining my experience, and my serv.-int3 also suflered,
as they did not get as much meat as they otherwise would have
done. The solid bullet fails out of a small-bore rifle at soft-
skinned game there can be no doubt, but at dangerous hard-
.•ikinncd animals the penetration will be found to be so great
that they can bo approached from behind, and a shot between
the hind legs will come out of the chest, and a fatal wound
can be fired from behind the animal equally as well as going
up and getting the head shot. There is less fear of tbc
animal charging, and when turning a head or side shot is
obtained.
I daresay by this time there is a great mass of evidence
in the hands of our military experts to prove that as a man
or beast stopping bullet the solid one constructed of one
material is most unsatisfactory, and what is wanted is a good
trustworthy expanding one. It is all twaddle and nonsense
talking about cruelty ; war either against the human being
or wild animal means death, and let u.s by all means have ■
weapon which will bring it about in as speedy a manner ai
possible. The only rea-son why the old Snider rifle wu
done away with was that it was not a long-range weapon
and its trajectory was so high, but at a short distance it was
a most powerful man-stopper, book at the wound made by
this rifle at a short distance ; it was a hole that let daylight
in, and very few men ever recovered if hit in tbc chest or
head, and if it caught a leg or arm bune the member had lo
come off. Soldiers belonging to King Johannes and Ras
Aloula had some stands of these rifles, and they u*cd to
swear by them as being for a sliort distance a weapon thai
meant certain death to their adversaiy.
Those that were present after the nght of General M'Ndll's
zareba or of Tofrick near Suakin in 1885, the last time this
weapon was largely used, may remember that it was very
easy to recognise those Dervishes that were killed by Ibe
Snider from the ones killed by the Martini- Henry, with
which the Indian and Eitgli^i troops were armed with re-
OUTFIT AND RIFLES
461
ctivcly, and no doubt that day many a Tommy Atkins
ifould have preferred the larRcr bored rifle, as many of them
at woundca by the bullet of the Martini-Henry not being a
^proper man-stopper. Tommy is Ihc man who has to win
our fi^hls for us, and it is a shame to provide him with a
bullet thut won't stop his adversary, especially as the insane
idea of our officials always make them fight with great odds
against him, and has nearly always to tackle the savage, who
generally will carr>' more lead than a Christian.
I do not believe that he will ever be content in a
European fight if he has to shoot what he will call "bloom-
ing peas" at his enemy, nof do I believe that the next
European war will be fought on the French duel principle,
with microscopic bullets. Shrapnel shells and all these
terrible de^itnictive explosives arc allowed in civilised war-
fare, and they make a much worse wound than a common
expanding bullet like the dum-dum, and if the one is per-
mitted why should not the otlier be ?
In conclusion regarding the arms for game shooting, the
ones I mentioned arc good enough for me, but dificrcnt
people have difl'crcnt opinions and different fads, and as long
as some people, young Anaks. like carrying about young
cannon and heavy battering ordnance they are at liberty to
do so ; but 1 prefer the li|;hter weapons which 1 get from
Messrs Bland & Sons, as they ansvrcr all my purposes, and
those are the '400 and '303, the former with solid and ex*
pandtng bullets for the most dangerous game, the latter with
only expanding bullets, as the solid ones act as a " pin-prick,"
exasperates but docs no great harm.
There arc many firms in London that will sell a traveller
an outfit, and nearly all «nll try and dispose of a lot of things
which may be useful but are unnecessary and only a IrouMe
to carry about. The following remarks are made for those
who do not wish to expend too much money, and what I
coiiskler ample to insure comfort. If the puntc runs to an
unlimited expenditure, do by ail means take everything and
live in the wilds of Africa the same as in Kngtand. I have
leen shooting parties in different parLi of the Cast that had
everything that money could buy, and sat down to dinner
at night to a meal that would have done justice to a first-
class European restaurant in Paris or London — soup, fish,
three or four entr^, joint, game, sweets, dessert, etc.. with
iced champagne and every known wine : the whole served
up on a spotless white tablecloth with silver dishes and
462
MODERN ABYSSINIA
cuUeiy with crest and monogram complete. I prefer some-
thing much simpler ; soup, a small dish and a joint or curry
being ample after a hard day, and with the qualifying sauce
of a good desert appetite it docs not want French cookery
or a mass of dishes to satisfy one's hunger
The traveller and sportsman will find that he has much
better health if he takes plain food of good quality and un-
limited quantity as soon after sunset as possible when the
day's work is over, and a good meal before starting out in
the morning, with biscuit, sardines or potted meat; a cold
guinea-fowl or francolin or some other game for lunch, as
although a healthy man docs not require more than two big
meals a day, any feelings of emptiness ought to be checked
as then fatigue soon comes on, and by ovcrdoii^ it on an
empty stomach more chances of getting ill arise than from
any other cause. My maxim in travelling has always been,
if possible, to have sumcthing to eat with me, as one never
knows what may occur, and at what time one may get tbe
next meal ; and a fair sixed haversack with a broad sling is
nothing for the syoe or tracker to carry, and they are always
willing to help to consume the contents^ If the food is not
required, when ncaring camp give the men the contents of
the haversack, especially If it contains a sweet biscuit or twft
as a reward for being saddled all day with the extra weight.
It will often be found that if one forgets to order lunch that
they will see after it themselves ; and if one wants to get at
the affections of these people, the easiest way is through
their stomachs. Many of them arc also as keen on sport u
their masters, and they look forward to the day's outing.
On buying a tent always choose one that is made of the
best material ; theWillcsdcn Rotproofand Waterproof Cimvafl
I have used for many years, and it answers every purpose
The tent should always have a double roof, as they are
always many degrees cooler in the hot weather, and in the
rainy season or in cold weather they are always drier and
warmer. Damp and cold are two of the greatest enemies tn
the human being in Africa and Abyssinia. The outside
covering of the tent should rx^ch the ground, as the space
between the outer and inner covering serves for putting
luggage in and keeping it out of the sun and damp, and id
wet weather as a place for one's personal suvant to aleen In.
Guys should be fastened at the middle cif each skle of tJie
outer covering to prevent it from flapping, and all tcnl jioleii,
botli upright and ridge, .\liould be bayoiict-socketcd ; as in
I
n
OUTFIT AND RIFLES
463
^galcs of wind, which often occur, if these prccaurions are not
taken the lent is liable to collapse by the wind getting under
the outer covcrinR and lifting ^c upper parts of the upright
I poles out of their sockets. This has happened to me before,
aiul the misery' of turning out on a dark night in a tropical
rain is no joke, and it generally ends in the majority of the
contents of the lent getting wet The ends of the upper
poles that fit into the sockets of the loM'er poles should be of
metal and the same length as the socket, as if made entirely
of wood in damp wca&cr the wood swells and they become
very difHcult to undo.
Wooden tent pegs that the outfitters try to sell with the
tent are all very well for Europe or England, but are not
suitable for African work ; they should be made of galvanised
iron. If woo<ien tent pegs are driven into hart! ground ihdr
points soon go and split, and when underground are liable to
be eaten by white ants. There are places in Abyssinia where
no suitable wood for tent pegs Ls procurable, and there is
also stony ground into which an iron peg can be driven but
not a wooden one. Never have a wooden mallet, the heads
always fly off in the dry weather and they also split and easily
get broken ; a hammer should take its place and should be
made entirely of iron or steel ; it can then be used for other
purposes besides driving in tent pegs, and if made of good
laterial should never break.
The tent should have pockets all round the sides to
'contain odds and ends that are required daily, such as books
and papers, and a change of clothes, pyjamas, etc. The
flooring of the tent, which ought to be permanently attached
to the two sides, should be at least nine inches broader
than they are now made, as at present they only just meet
at the centre and leave nothing for overlapping. At each
end of the tent at the bottom there is a small overhanging
piece which ought to tuck under the flooring and prevent
water entering tlic tent ; this is also a great deal too narrow
and wants to be at least nine inches broad. Tents are
generally sent out by the makers with flimsy tape strings
to iastcn the ends together ; these tapes arc the greatest
trouble, as they are always breaking, and on a cold dark
night tying up or undoing so many bow» is a nuisance, con-
ducive to Uid temper and bad langu.ige. Straps firmly
sewn on are much easier managed and more speedily worked.
The slings by which the inner part of the tent is fastened to
idge pole are generally too weak and wear out; they
464 MODERN ABYSSINIA
want stnwtbeaing a^d finnly sewii% on. Two windowi
should be fitted instead of one to eet a current of air aod
keep the tent cool; these should be fitted with gaiueatfta&is
to prevent the flies and mosquitos from entering; these
insects bong the greatest pests, the one by day and the other
by night A siesta during the day is often required, and in
undisturbed sleep when suffering from slight fever is one of
the best medicines. Never buy a i^te test; green or brown
are the best colours, or some neutral tint to neirtialiK Ae
eSect of the glare of the sun. The WHleaden c8nvH^ as I
mentioned before, is as good as any, but a darker green is
required than that wfai^ is ordinarily sold, lAidi so aoon
fades and then tliere is a g^are in the tent whidi beoooMi
uncomfortable, besides the tent looks dirty. A deui canqi
with tidy servants is always a blessing and stamps Hk
owner as being an Englishman. The camps bdonging to
Al^ssinians and Frenchmen are always alovaity and dfrty.
It is false economy to choose a tied made of too Iq^
material, and a. few extra pounds in weight make a lot of
difference in the article, and a l^ht bed never lasts, and ooe
that gives or is the least uncomfortable prevents a good
nighf s rest It should also be fitted with curtains to keq>
out all insects ; they should be high and laige enou^ to pot
a table and chair under, so that writing or painting can be
done in comfort For clinging pertinacity and annoyance
the Abyssinian fiy is as bad as the Egyptian. Bed blankets
should be warm and of a brown colour and made as sad[S,90
that they can be slept in during cold weather. A good pillow
or two should be taken, but never buy an india-rubber one that
has to be inflated, as they do not last, and the wind escapes
during the night and in the morning they have collapsed.
The best chair to take is a Delamere armchair made
by Silver of ComhiU. It will stand any amount of hard
work, and is very comfortable. A common folding deck-
chair should not be forgotten ; they are very light and will
go on the top of any load, and therefore can be used till the
last moment before leaving, and they are the last thii^ to be
packed and the first to be taken off the transport animals.
Boxes should all be of steel ; wood and leather should always
be avoided, for they easily get damaged by white ants and
damp. However, this does not refer to a small handbag or
a small portmanteau which can be kept off the ground. The
size of the boxes should not exceed twenty-four inches in
length by thirteen inches in breadth by ten inches in he^ht
OUTFIT AND RIFLES
465
fe
Tliestf measurements 1 think arc the best for the following
reasons, — one is a light load for a man or woman, two for a
donkey, three or four for a mule according to its size, and a
camel will carry half-a-dozen. They should be fitted with
locks with different keys and one master key to open all ;
they should have rounded edgas and corners and no sharp
poinLi, as they arc apt to chafe or gall the transport animals.
It is a good thing if posMblc to keep all boxes to one size, as
there is less difficulty in loading and no squabbling between
the porters or owners of beasts trying to take small packages
and leaving the larger ones till the last.
There arc several ways of getting to Abyssinia, and it all
depends what part is intended to be visited. If the south, it
has to be entered through SomaliUnd, either from Zeilah,
Bulbar or Berberah, and then the shortest way is by steamer
to Aden and then by coasting steamer. Massowah can also
be reached in the same way by changing at Aden, as the
Italian local mail steamer meets every outgoing English mail
boat to receive the post from Europe and leaves via the
Italian settlement of Assab for Massowah. Another way
is via Genoa and Port Said. Luggage can be booked through
to Massowah from London by applying to Messrs Gellatly,
Sewell & Co., the well-known shipping firm, who have agents
at Massowah, and they are always most civil and obliging
both in London and abroad, doing everything to help the
traveller on his way and taking an interest in his welfare up-
countr)'. Many (icoplc have to thank them for what they
have done, and Uiey are a friendly, connecting link between
the old country and these strange parts of the world. The
steamers from Genoa start for >fassowah every fourteen
days, calling at Port Said where they can be joined by going
by the overland route, making Massowah within ten or eleven
days of London ; they are fairly comfortiible, and the passengers
are mostly government officials and military men going for
the first time or returning from leave in Italy to the colony
of Rnthrea. Valuable hints and the last news about Erithrea
and Abyssinia can always be obtained from them, providing
the traveller can talk French, as the majority of the Italian
officials talk that language. 1 think the Genoa route the
best, as there is less trouble, and there is always a rush at
Aden, to procure the luggage from the Peninsular and Oriental
steamers and getting it on bo;ird the local lK>at, and a week
at Aden, unless one knows the very hospitable officials and
leading Eiiglislimen, is a waste of time.
2G
466
MODERN ABYSSINIA
Massowafa has its drawbacks, and the hotels and their
accommodation used to be very bad, and tlie best plan to
adopt is to proceed at once to Sahaali by train and pitch
camp there. One can then tell if there Lt a shortage of
anything in the outfit, and what is wanting from Massowah,
and in the European stores provisions of all sorts can be
purchased quite as cheap as in England, and Italian preserves
of all sorts very much cheaper, so there is no necessity to
import and pay duty on things that can be bought just as
easily on the spot. The Italians take a great deal more
interest in an Englishman, and are more willing to help him
if he spends money in the country, and why an Englishman
should import things when he can procure them on the spot,
\a a m>'8tery to them.
Servants in numbers can be procured at Massowah, many
talking English, French, Italian, Arabic, liindustanic, and
Ab>'ssinian ; some can talk all six lanj^ages, and there is
never any difficulty in procuring suitable ser\-ants. Some
of them arc first-rate people who know the country thoroughly,
having taken part in the numerous campaigns or having
served otlier Europeans. A guarantee from a local houM-
holder can generally be procured, and it ts always a safe
thing to have when engaging a servant Their capabilitica
are many, and thc>' can act as syces, tent scn'ants, cooka,
gun-boys, and some few of them arc decent sportsmen and
understand what is wanted when going after big game-
If a good gun'bcarer, who ia a bit of a hunter, can be
procured at tlie coast, and if one tees he is keen at his work,
he is mast invaluable, as he will soon find out when up
country the best locU men to find game, and who know
tljeir districts thoroughly. When siiooting for several months
in these countries such a large area is covered, that one man
who is good in one place is entirely useless in another. The
choice Uien of local men must depend greatly on the tporta-
maa who is shooting ; of course if the purse will run to jt,
one or two more hangers on at camp fs no great cxpeoK;.
and often the rivalry between them docs « great deal of
good, cs|>ccially if tliey are paid so much extra (>er bead
o( the game found, not killed, as this depends on the sports-
man. I have known cases of rank dulTcrs and bad shots
never being taken up to dangerous game, as the huntcn
are not so much frightened for themselves as they arc far
the shooter, and that they may be held responsible for hi*
death or any accident that may take place, and the death
«
*
I
OUTFIT AND UIFI.ES
4C7
I
of a sportsman is a preat persona! loss to them. It is alwa)*^
a good plan to have servants of both religions, the
Mohamcdans for cooks and tent servants, as they mess
scp^iratcly from the Christian Abyssinian, and they do
not tell the others what is talked by their masters in camp.
I have known several instances of what has been said in
camp by Europeans, reaching the cars of Abyssinian officials,
and of course it was not complimentary, and very often
the officials have their spies in Massowah to find out what
is going on, and purposely try and get them engaged as
servants to those who arc proceeding up countiy, so their
movements can be watched,
Syces or grooms can be chosen from the Abyssinians,
as they have been brought up from childhood with horses
and mules, and thoroughly understand them, and often
take great care and a pride in the beasts under their charge,
and keep bits, chains, and stirrup irons very clean. The
Abyssinians are good baggage loaders, tent pitchers, grass
cutters, and for all odd work of a camp life, but they will
not cat game or domestic animals killed and cooked by a
Mohamcdan. It is alwa>*s the best plan to allow the Abys-
sinians to choose their own head man from among themselves,
and if they then grumble they have only themselves to blame.
The head man shimM be the only go between master and
servant, and to be held responsible for everything belonging
to hi-1 department. Wages alter a great deal at diflTerent
times, but they can always be found out at Massowah ; they
begin at about £i per month with food supplied ; it is always
better to keep part of the wages in arrcar to be paid on dis-
ehargc, but even this docs not prevent an Abyssinian from
deserting, as if he wants to go, a small question of money
does not divert him from his purpose.
Pack saddles can be procured at Massowah both for
camels and mules, so there i-t no necessity to take them
out from England ; however, an English saddle is a necessity
and it should not l>e over large, as the mounts are generally
small. It is always a good plan to take out a large roll of
thickish felt to make saddle cloths for the pack mules; if it
Is not required it can always be sold, and the Abyssinian
traders prize it immensely, as it saves many a sore back and
lasts for a very long time. Camels can be used throughout
the country north of the Mareb rivei^and throughout the whole
eastern and western frontier. Mules are required south of
the March and in central Aby.sstnia.
01 all sorts very mucn cneaper, so me
import and pay duty on things that a
easily on the spot The Italians tak
interest in an Englishman, and are moi
if he spends money in the country, am
should import things when be can pnx
is a mystery to them.
Servants in numbers can be procure
talking English, French, Italian, Aral
Abyssinian ; some can talk all six tai
never any difficulty in procuring suit
of them are 6rst-rate people who know tl
having taken part in the numerous
served other Europeans. A guarantee
holder can generally be procured, an<
thing to have when engaging a servai
are many, and they can act as syces,
gun-boys, and some few of them are
understand what is wanted when going
If a good gun-bearer, who is a b
Erocured at the coast, and if one sees h
e is most invaluable, as he will so
country the best local men to &nd j
their districts thoroughly. When shool
in these countries such a large area is i
who is good in one place is entirely usi
choice uieo of local men must depend
man who is shooting ; of course if th(
466
MODERN ABYSSINIA
There is a good carriage road front Sahaati to AsLinara
and a fair one from Asmara to Adi-Ugri or Goodofdasic,
from there on to the Marcb t'/n Adi-Quala camels or mules
can be used. Westward from Adi-Uyri local information
must be obtained, as to the state of the paths ; camels can
proceed, however, to the low countries, but detours may have
to be made owing to the thickness of the bush. Good
English axes, bill hooks and hatchets should be taken out
from Kngland for cutting busli to make zarcebas, as they do
the work much quicker than foreign or native made ones, and
very likely a camp may be pitched for a fortnight in one
place in the game country, and a good-sized piece of ground
will have to be cleared and surrounded. In the country to
the west it is very often that only a few branches stop what
is otherwise a very decent road, and if they are removed they
will allow a camel to pass with his load. A laden mule can
pass and get throu^ bush th.it hopelessly stoi>s a camel,
which can only proceed when unloaded, and the constant
unloading and carrying the baggage for a .short distance is
very troublesome, and only short marches can be made.
There arc plenty of places which seem impossible to be got
through, but with a little perseverance the difficulties can be
surmounted, and better and more central shooting-gfounds
can he rc-iched.
Cooking-pots can be purchased in Massowah, the stora
belonging to the Europeans being furnished with every
requisite. The japanned iron ware, blue outside and white
inside, can be purchased very cheaply, so knives, forks and
spoons arc only required from home ; plates, teacups, kettles,
plates, dishes, drinking-cups of the same japanned ironware can
all be got locally ; baths are not to be obtained and should
be taken out, and they are also the best things for wash-
ing clothes in. Candlesticks and candles can be obtained
anywhere in the colony, but a good travelling-lantern to
burn petroleum should be got in England, Lord of llirming-
ham makes a very good one which fits into a case, and it
also holds a supply sufficient for ten days or a fortnight;
petroleum can be bought cheaper in Ma.<»4^<wah than Id
England, and this oil is most useful, as it serves to st«t a
fire in rainy weather, and is useful for keeping the bacm
beetle out of heads, horiu and skins, and white aats from the
tent
As the weather is very hot and also very cold at timet,
the extremes in temperature being very great, provision ie
I
1
OUTFIT AUD RIFLES
469
clothing fthould be made Tor both. A dress suit and white
shiits are a nece^ty, as the very hospitable Italian officials
entertain strangers ol good standing, and like seeing their
guests well dressed Flannel shirts and underclothing must
be taken, and kharki suits for the low country and tweed
suits for the mountains.
Everyone that travels in Abyssinia should have barometer,
tbermometers (ordinari,- and for boiling point), aneroid, com-
pass, large and small, photograj^ic apparatus, nett for
capturing butterflies, moths and insects, with air-tight boxes
for putting them in. Seeds of flowers should always be
gathered, and orchids, terrestrial and celestial ; they soon dry
and take up but little space, aiid they arc most interesting
to the home people, if they can be got to grow. What
with shootine, collecting, photographing and taking notes,
the day is fully spent and time passes most rapidly, and the
months passed in the countr>' will never be regretted, but
will be looked back upon as red letter days in one's
existence.
On returning to the coast, the outfit that remains, and
transport animals that survive, always fetch a good price,
and the smaller things can be given to the servants who
have behaved well. The cost of these expeditions of course
varies as to the ideas of the traveller and how many take
place in them. To do the business very comfortably, it can
be put down at about j^8o per bead, per month while in
the country. Transport is of course the greatest item, and
one can nc\'er estimate what losses may take place or what
the market value uf mules and camels may be, and there is
always, us in any country, a great difference in the value of
different animals. Camels, horses and mules are to be
obtained in Krithrea, or the former can be procured from
Hodcidah, Aden or the Somali country.
English gold is the best coin to take out, it is always at
a premium in these countries at the coast, and can be
exchanged at the seaport for silver. Italian money is used
in Erithrea — the Maria Theresa dollar in most parts of
Ab>-ssinta and in the wild part of the Soudan. In Somali-
tand, the rupee is taken for a certain distance into tlie
interior and then the Maria Theresa dollar is the current
coin. The Indian Banian traders and the native Jews at
the coast ports generally give the highest price for Knglish
gold. Money can be left at the Post Ofhces at Italian
settlements in Krithrea, arKl can be sent for when rec^uired.
470 MODERN ABYSSINIA
saving the trouble of canying it into the jungle, where
money is next to useless, except to buy sheep from the
shepherds, and one generally relies on obtaining enough
game to feed all hands. Many of the native houses on
tiie coast have agents up country, and they will often give
drafts which can be cashed cither for money or goods^
and it saves the traveller a lot of trouble, being able to get
trade cloth in the interior instead of having to carry it with
him, but it is always as well to take a lot of coloured cotton
handkerchiefs and a little cloth, as they do for presents to
the women who bring e^s, chickens and milk into camp,
and they generally prefer them to money, besides in Abys-
sinia there is no small change except bars of salt which are
cumbersome things to carry and in wet weather the bars
break and crumble away. It becomes expensive givii^ a
dollar for a little milk, a few eggs and a chicken or twa In
some parts of the country, as many as twenty chickens can
be purchased for a dollar, but in most villages it would be
difficult to get as many as that number, half-a<dozen periiaps
only being available.
APPENDICES
APPENDIX I
Copv or Treaty BrrwEHii Kino Johaknks, King of Kinqs
or Ethiopia, and Kikc. menelek, Kinc of Shoa
StaUdon tht ^h o/lHairM 1878
Articlx I.— King Mtnelck must pay tribute to King John.
ASTICLS II. — He tnuil supply King John's army with provisions when
in bb domicions.
Article III.— He must ccate to be ailled King of Kings tti Ethiopia
iuvil only- be CAllcd V.\a% ai .Shoa.
Akticls IV.^He muit g\ve King John auisiance tn any time of need.
Article V. — King John must give Menclck help in time of need.
Akticlb VI.— Kine Mcneick shall rule the Wollo Galla MthometUiia
who are locaieo between Shoa and Abyssinia.
Artici.e VII.— King Menelek must build Christian CbuTchet in the
Wollo Gitlh country and introduce Cliriitianity there.
RTICLE Vltl.— Kin^' Mcnelck mu.it give free pu»age to King John's
amiy ai £aT as L)ebra Lcbanus, a convent in Shoa.
Agreed to and signed by the two kings on the 14th March 1878.
King John, no*- Emperur of Ethiopia, crowned Menelek witli hia o»-n
crowD as King of ^hoa on [he 26t)i iM.Lrch 18781, And procUimed by his
hemld. " I have crowned ray son Menelek as King of Shoa, bmour him
B> you honour me."
From the Autobiography of Tbeophiltis Waldmetr, Missionary,
being an account of ten years' life in Abyssinia. A.U. li^'^iWi.
Mr Tbeophilut Waldraeir alto says : —
** King John dcclaied war against King Ikleneiek who was already in
trouble became his own wife had revolted against him, though ber
icbellion wai soon quelled, and the Queen and lier party forgiren.
Meanwhile King John w«s Cut approaching with his destructive army,
and the news filled the hearts or ine Sbra people with tenor. Nevcr-
thielos, King Menelek stayed at Lei»chc, and, hoping to end the matter
peacefully, without bloodshed, he xeni his ambasudon to King John to
ask Tot peace, but ihcy were sent b.ick with a refusal, and tbe Ab^ruiniaits
having slrcidy cioiicd the frnnticr, began to plunder and kiU. The
people at ShoA naturally expected that Menelek wiiuld gather an armv,
and (ighl against tbe enemy, but he remained ([uieily in Lctsche, only
Sing his Ircasorea in safety. Ulttinatcty negotiations weio rc-com-
I '
A
r
I
4/2
MODERN AHYSSINIA
menced bciwcea ihc two kings. Jokn insining Ihai Meneiek tJioahl
acknowled)[C him iis his chiei, snd hit coiinirj xhonld be Iributaiy.
Menelek was forbidden to cnM> ihe nonbcrn boaadnry of Sbo>, aod was
also ex{)ected to giire soldien to King Jobn.
N.B.—Tiai informnlion was given lo Mr Theopbilos Waklmcar by a
brotlier mi»ianiit>-, Mr Jobn Mayer, who letumcil (o Abyutnta to Kibb
Meneiek, and who was turned out of tli« country wiih otb«r miMlonariM
bjr ihe order of King Juliimn«!> in i366. Thi» Mr Mayer, wriiiog oadar
the dale of May tS86, itkyt :—
" I im very sorry lo hear front the people that King Mcoeldc agua
allow-i the inulcrs to cait)' on their horrible butineu of the niive tnde.
Thit ud news was conlimted by the fact, that several *1a*e dealen
brought six hundred young (jalU girtt, with many boys, and joined
caravan towards Tajurmh."
A'./;.— Messrs Waldmeir and Mayer were prisonera at M*|
aitd were relea!«d by ibe EngUsb expedition, and letumed again lo
Abyssinia.
A. aw.
APPENDIX It
Trxatv BinvKKM Grkat Britaik, Egypt amo Abvssikia
Sifp^ al AJovM June yd, 1S84
Her Majesty Ifae Queen of ilte U nKed Kingdom of Grtai BritatD aad
Ireland, EmprcM of India, and His Majesty jotuaoc^ ii»de by ibc
Almighty King ol Sion, Ncgooaa Negust of Kihiopia and ita Dc-
Kndencio, and His Highness Mahamed Tcwfik, Kliedi^-e of Efni>(<
ing desirous of -wtlltng the differences which exist between the uud
Johannest Ncgoma Ntgust of Ethiopia and Mabamcd Teafik Khcdiiv
of Egypt, and of cstabTi&hing an cvorlaMing pcaice between ilicin, luve
nuiccd 10 conrhjde a Treaty for this putpofe which sliall be binding o«i
themselves. Iheir heir*, and siKCcuors 1 and Her M;ijcsty llie Quocn of
Crc.1t iliitain .ind Ireland, Kmprcss of India, having appoioied as her
Kctircaciiutive, Kcar Admiial Sir William HcH-ett, Commandcr-in'Oiid
of Her Matcsiy's ships ol war in tlie EaM Indies, ai>d His Majesty iha
Negoosa Negust of Ethiopia acung on his own behalf, and Hix Highneiw
the Khedive of Egypt having appointed a.% bis Represvntativ*; Hi*
Excellency Mason Sev, Governor of Massowah, they havt agned npnt
ami concluded the following Articles : —
ARTICLK I
From the d.ite of signing of this Treaty there shall be free tmniU
ikrough Maisowah 10 and from Abyssinia for all goods, including ama
and ammunition tmder British prMeciioa
AKTICUt It
On and after the ist day of September 1884, comsaonding to iIm
8th day of ^ta^lcamlln 1S77. the country called ^Ar%t» shall be rcaumd
to Hii Majeuy the Nvgoosa Ne^tui : and when the troops of His High—
Ibc Khrdivi! shall liave left the garrisons of Kassala AtDMlib and Saidieit,
the buildings in tlic Uogos counUy which now belong 10 Hii Uighnwi
i
1
APPENDICES
473
ihf Kht^ivt, togcOttr with nil the stores and muniiiont of war which
thall then remain in the said buildinc-s ihnll be dclitvrcd to xnd become
^ propeity erf HU AlajeMy the Negoasa Nej;u«L
AKTICI^ III
Hii Mnjesly ihc Negoosn N(^:ust cnga^ to facilitate the withdtavnd
Lflf the iroopK of His HighnMi the Kbediw from Kusalo, Amcdib and
^Sanheit through Ethiopia to Mauowah.
ARTICLR IV
Hb HiitfaneM the Khedive engages to gnatt all the fiicilities which
His Majesty the NegoosA Negiui may require in the matter of appointing
Aboonas for Ethiopda.
ARTICLK V
Hb Majesty the NcKOosa Ntjjuai and His Highness the Khedive
cngaee to deliver up ilie one lo i)ic other any criminal or criminals who
may nave tied to escape puniiifamcDt, trmn ibc dominions of the one to
tbc dominions of the other.
AKTiaj: VI
14is Majesty the Ncgoosa Nc^Kt aKTcet to refer all difTereoces with
His Highness the Khcdirc which may arise after the signing of ibis
Treaty to Her Britannic Majesty for settlement.
AHTICU. VII
Tlie present Treaty shall be ratified by Her Majesty the Queen ot
Gieai Britain and Ireland, Kmpress of India, and by his Highness tbc
Khedive of Egypt, and the ratiticatMO shall be lorwaided to Adowa ai
, loon as po»ible.
I In witness whereof Rear-Admiral Sir W. Hewcti, on behalf of Her
I Unjcsty the Oucrn of Crcai Britain and Ireland, Empress of India, and
M;ijcity the Ncgoosa Nc^isl on his own behalf^ and Hi* Excellency
MO Bey on behalf of Hit Highness tbe Khedive of Kgypt have
ned and affixed their scali to this Treaty made at Adowa (he 3rd day
Itme 18S4, corresponding to tlie l/lh day of Coounet iKj6.
(Kings Seal)
(L. S.) W. HSWMT.
(L S.) Mason.
Rkmakks
Akticlk I.— This was never carried oot as Italy tonic Massowah and
supplied King Menelek with arms against King Johannes through Assab.
AitTicLB II.— The Icrritory was gi»-cn «»-er. The word restored is
used pruving that Abyssinia nerer relinquisbed her claim to this
ooontry.
AKTicia HI.— Carried out on behalf of Abyssinia with cxceptioa 01
KassaLi, see pages 3J, jti why this was not done.
Articlk IVT— Egypt carried out this clause.
A/^. — Befiwe Captain Harrington was appointed in 1898 to represent
Her Majc«t)''s Government ai the Court ai King Menelek at Adese
Ababa, no English representative was stationtsl in Abyssinia and we
have been therefore imable lo prMctt British inicreits ui to watch the
nry imponant det-dofxauits that have occurred in ltai» country, Had
idifa
474
MODERN ABYSSINIA
BOoneone been left with King Johannes to repon to our Gavemmeiil what
W3U taking pUce in Abyssinia its hiitory wcwld hkve been cIifTei«ni, and
we might hare be«D the Itrst foreign powu b the country which at
prcMnt we arc not, auid we do not know wbu this negtea may coU us
in Ihc ftiture.
APPENDIX III
Treaty between Her Majesty and Hts Majesty the Kiho
or Abvssinia for the Scppressioh op the Slave Trade
Sigrttiiat Adov^Jutu %nt 18S4
Her Majesty the Qneen of the United Kiii);doui of Great UiHam and
Ireland, Empress of India, and His Majir-xy Juhannet, made by the
Almighty Kingof Sion, Negoosa Nc^uaiuf tihiopia and lt» dcpeodencies,
being desirous of prohibiting aiid perpetually abolishing the Suve Trade,
they have agreed lo conclude a Treaty (or this purpose, which ^hall be
binding on ihrmtelvcs, their hctrs, and (.iiccci^Mrt, and to that end
Kear-Admintl Sir William Hcweii, Commander-in-Chief tif Her Majetty^
^ps of war in the East Indies, acting on the behalf of Her Majesty the
Queen of Great Britain and Ireland, F.mprcM of India, and His Majeity
fohannc-i, Negoou Net{u»l of Ethiopia, acting on ht!> own behalf^ tbey
bavc agreed upon and concluded Uie following Articles ; —
ARTICLE I
HSa Ua}«ty the Ne^oosa Negvst agre«x 10 prohibit and to preveoi,
10 the be«i of hn ability, the buying and selling or daves withtn '
dominions.
ARTICIJE II
His Majcstjp the Negoom Nefi:tist a^ecs to prohibit and lo prvTOtt.
the belt of his ability, the import or export of slaves lo or from hi*
dominions.
ARTICLE III
Hi« MajcMy tbe Negooxa Negusi eng^t^es to protect, to the umtM
of bis power all libented sUk-ea, and to punish severely any atiempl lo
inoleat tbem, or to reduce tbeiu again to slavery.
ARTICLE IV
Her Britannic Majesty has made Treaties with manjr Foreign Si
by which it is permitted to bcr ofiicen to leite all ship* belonKing '
such Foreign Statu engaged in tbe Uan»porl or conveyance of SUiei
upon the sea : and Her Majesty cngagcii 10 liberate any subjects of Hu
Maiesty tlie Negcioui Negusi, ulto mar be found detained as sUvbs in
any ship captured by the oAicns of tier Ma)cMy, and to take sMps M
Mnd such sut^ccts back to the dominions of His Majesty tbe NegooH
Negust.
ARTICLE V
The prcMint Treaty shall be ratiAcd, and tbe ruUlcsllon shat) bt
forwarded to Adowa as soon as possible.
In witness whereof, Kear-Admiral Sir William Heweit, no tbe b^alf
of Her Stajeit>- the (^een of threat Britain and Itclaad, Enpras tk
India, and Johannes, Negoosa Negust of Ethiopa, on his owD
APPENDICES
475
kve aigned th« umc, and (or) h*vt affixed ibctr leals to (hh Treaiy
made at Adowa the 3rd day of Jun« 1884, cotrcsponding to the 2;tfa day
of Coonvet 1S7&
(L. S.) Seal ol the King of AbrninU.
(L. S.) W. Hewett.
Aiifr.— Kbg Johannes bithfulty carried out this treal)> with Ennland,
and there is no known cue of st.ivr.i pauinj; through Win dominions Emm
the rime il was signed till hii deitb, alihough Kins Mcnclek allowed nUt-e
caravans to paw through his tciritiw)-, see Appendix 1., and the in-
formation civen by Mr John Mayer. Galk t^laves from King Mcnelek's
dominions Da t-c alo-ays l>eeti and still are for sale in Hodeidah and Mecca.
A. B, W.
APPENDIX IV
Trkatv uetwkbk Great Bkitaim and ETHioriA
Signed fy Ike Bmperw Meneltk II. imd by Her Metjettjft Eltvey at Adie
AUaitt nt* Afiy 1897-
Ratified fy tk* (Jtm-jr, July 2Ztk, 1 897.
ENGLISH VERSION.
The Amhartc version, kk^kA by King Ntenelek, appeared in iht
Icit column of the Original Treaty.
Her Mfljcsly Victoria, by the Grace of Cod, Queen of Great Rritain
and Ireland, Empress of India, and His Majesty Mcneick II., by the
Grace of God, KinK of Kings of Klhiopia, l>eing desirous of stien^bening
and reitdering mute cReciive ind profitable tM ancient friendship which
bu existed between their respetiivc kinfidams :
Her Majesty Queen Victoria hiiviiik- appointed as her special Envoy
and Representative to His Majesty the Emperor MencIcK II., James
Rcnndl Rodd, Esq., Companion of The Most Distinguished Order of St
Michael and .$I George, whose full powers have been foond in due and
proper Torm, and Ilis Mn^esty the Emperor Mendek, negotiating in bis
own name as King of Kings of Eihopia, they have af[Teed upon and do
conciitile the following articles, which shall be iModmg on tbenuelves,
tbeir beirs and successors : —
ARTICLX I
The subjects of or persons protected by each of the contracting
parties shall have full liberty to come and go and engage in commerce in
the territories of the other, enjoying the prolcctinn of the government
within whose jurisdiction tbcy are ; but it ts forbidden for armnd bands
from either side to cross the frontier of the other on any pretext wbai-
ever, without previous authoniation from ilie contpetent autnorities.
AXTICLE II
The frontiers of tlw Rriiisb Protectonte on (he Somali coast recog-
■d by the Emperor Menclck shall be determined snbsoiucnily by
JMngC of notes between James Kennell Rodd Esq, as repteseittative
of Her M^fesiy the Queen, and Kas Maconen as representative of His
H^CSt^f ttae EnperoT Mcnclek, at Harrar. These notes shall be annexed
^
476
MODERN ABYSSINIA
U> tht prt«ut Treaty, of whkli ihejr will fortn sn miesvaJ P»n ■* w?w
as ibey have received the approval oT tlie Hteb CoaUte^Of Paitiei,
pending «iiich the slatui quo soall be muntaiaeo.
ARTICLE 111
The canvan route betirecn Zeyb and Hsrrar by way of GiMesa
khall remain open ifattMighout iu wiiote exteni la the comnetce
tioth natioDi.
ARTtCLRI V
Hi» Mnjcxtr the Finperor of Ethiopia on the uoe hand accords
Great Briiaiii and bet Coloniess in respect of inipurt duties and 1o
taxation, eTer>- advantage which he may accord to the lubjocts of other
nations-
Un the other luind all matenal destined e:xcluMTcly for the scnice of
the Ethiopian Si^te ^haU. oo application from Hit Majesty the Emperor,
be allowed lo pass through the port of Zeyla into Ethiopia free of doty.
ARTICLE V
The tivisil of Itreaimin and nmmunition destined for His Ma^emy tbe
Emperor of Ethiupia tbruugh tlie lerritoriea depending on tlie Govern-
neot of Her Britannic Mnji-sty is autburiied, uibicct to the cotidilioiw
pmcribcd hy the General Act of the Brussela Conrcren<^ ^Vi^ ^
and July 1890.
AtmtnJt VI
His Majesty the Emperor Mcnrlck 11., Kinji of KinRS of Ethiopia,
engaues himielf towards the r>ovcmmeni of l-tcr Britannic Majesty to
do all in bii power to prevent the posugc through hti doniinioas of ams
and ammuniiion (0 the Mahdists whom he dedans to be the cncmlai
of hit Kmpiic.
The pfdcnt Treaty shall come into fore* Bl soon as its rWificatloi) \/f
Her Untannic Ma)uly shall have been notilkd to ihe Emnrroi nf
Ethiopia, but it is underslood that the prescriptions nf Article VI. thai)
be put Into force fnnn the dale of its signature.
In faith of which His Majesty Mendel: II., Kinn of Kings of Ethiopia,
in bis own nantcsnd Jamcskeoncll kodd, Esq., on beliatfof Her M.iievty
Victoria, Queen of Great Britain and Itcbnd, Binjxcse uf Indu, have
MKi^d the present Trcniy in diipli<aie, written in the Eagtisfa and
Ambaric lai^agcs identically, both texts bein)! considered u olBcitl
and have thereto affixed their seals.
\
Done at Adis-Abbaba the t4th day of May 1897.
(l-S.) Stgroed James Rkmioll Ronn.
(Seal of His Majesty the Emperor Moiekk '
II.) ^
A'.j?.— This treaty is binding on Kin); Mcnclek's bein and mceoiiors
aixl they arc not at present known, tberefore the future is iMccun^ nnlan
it is airanged beforehand, who will succeed him. The treaty wiut Kiac
Johannes was also bindino on his heirs and successors, and the uim n
was signed. King Johannes was in the pnme of life, lusd bad a straag
and hMhhy son wno was married to King Menelek^ daa{^wr, aisd ibm
tna tvtfv ptMpcct of their having children. Both the Kmtf aw) hi* mm
<li«d, and althoo^h the King on his death-bed noralnaBed Ms illiniiiiasta
son, Ras Manf^shn, to succeed hint, the princes oitamlkd aHMogsi
themsdves who was lo ha«« iba throne. Then are kms or fin
- '~-
^
APPENDICES
477
r
low in Abysifnia (fakt have chaoccs, but it is not cenaJn who will actiully
receive the crown. So most likely ihnc uill be fighting uiilas it it
known who Kin^ Menclek withct to succeed hint, attd he is acknow*
ledged by lh« pnncipnl RiLte« before the KinK** death.
INtXES TO TREATV signed AT ADB-ABBABA ON THK I4TH MaT
1897, BV His Majesty the Euperok Mxmblbk, and by Mk
JaUCS Reknell Rood.
j Ahnkxcs au Tkait6 sicn£ k Auts Abbaka le 14 Mai 1897 par
^^ Sa Majest£ L'Empsxkur MtHti.SK ti pak Mohs. Jaues
^^ RUINBLL ROD».
^^^ ANNEX I
^^^P Mr RouD to the EuFiucoH Mkkelek
^B ADIS-AUM. M^ 14, i9t7.
^■Vous Majesty,
^K With relerence 10 Article II. of theTTcaij which we ate
^Ro tisa to^y, I am instriKned by my Govctnmeot la ibe ct-eni of a
^' poHiDle occupatiOD by Ethiopia 04 territories inhabited by iribes wba
auve formerly accepted and enjoyed British proioclion in the districts
excluded from the limits of the Dritith Protectorate on the .Sonuli Coast
m» rccognited by Your Mnjoty, to brlntc to year knowledge the desire of
He MajeMy the Queen to receive fiom Your Majesty an ^u^urance that
it will be your special care ih^t tliu«u tribes receive Cijuitablc ircatiDcni
and ate tbiu no lowers by lhi!> tiaiufei of ttuerainty.
In expressing ibe hope that Your Majesty will enable me to gin ihi*
^^Msurancc, I have &c.
^m (Signed) Rbmnkll Rodd.
^K (TRAMJCTION)
HB AOMt-ASBAaA, le u Mai itgf.
■VOTRK MAJESTfc,
Me r^rant & I'Articte II. du TraM qui sera 9igni
eacre aou« aujocrifhci, )e tvi* char^ p-ir mon Gouveraipnent de potter
k la connaiH^nce de Voire M^ijeiti^, dan> le CAS ot) t'Elhiopie entrera.
^rentuelteoienl en occnpation d« territories habitus par ies tribua, qui
avjieni jnierteurement accept^ et Joui de la protection Briiannique duM
lea rc){ioas exclues de In limilc roconnue par Voire Majcstd comme
ftoniitve du Protectorat Uritannique Mr \» C4(e des Somalis, le d<!sir
de Sa MaJcsk! la Reinc de recevoir nne AMurance de le pan de votre
Majetttf (jndlle s'orcupcra lout spjcialement Jt pourvoir que oe* tribus
•eranl trailed 6(luilab^croent aRn qn £!■ ne perdent rien par ce traat-
feecnenl de >uieratnet&
En exprimani Tetpoir que Votre Majestii me pennettn de donner
cctte a&Mirance jf»i, &c
Siga6 Rkmwkl Rouu.
Tbe Ehpisor Menelbk to Mr Rodd
(Tramsi-ation)
Tbe Cocujuering Lion of tlie Tribe of lodah, Menelek II. by the
grace of God, King of Kings of Ethiopia to Mr RenocU KiKid, Envoy o(
tbe Kingdom of England.
Peace be unto yon.
Your letter wiitteo in Genbot iSft^^ respecting the Sonulis, hu
wt^
478
MODERN ABYSSINIA
TCEuJied me. With reganl to the qoestion you tare pot to tat, 1 give yon
Ifafl MwaiBM ih*i ibe Somaln who nuj' by bouadur artaagemeoB
tMcocM tubfecu or Ethiopia shall be well umied wm hAv« ordaitr
govern inent
Wriilcn ax AdM-Ahbaha the tith Genbof 1SS9 (utb May 1897).
(Seal of His Majesty the Emperor Meadek II.)
ANNKX U
The Emterox Mekklsk to Mr Rodd
From Menelek 1 1, by the gnce of God, King of Kin^ of Etluopib
Conquering Lion of tbc tribe oi jadah.
May this reach James Rennell Kodd.
Peace be unio yoa.
With reference to the Treaty which we have written in the Amhark
and Rngli^b langttatces at Adis-Abhaha, as 1 have no interpreter with
who understamli the English lanKuage well enoufh to compare llw
English and Amburic ver%ion, if by any pottihitity in the fuiure there
•hould ever be found any niiaundersiandini; between the Antharic and
Ej^bh venioM in any of the Aniclei of tins Treaty, let this tranalation
which is written in the French language and which I eoclote in tfab
Inter, be the witness between u^ and if you accept this propottal lend
me word of your acceptance hy Icucr.
Dated 71b Genbot 1880 (14th May iSg?).
fSeal of His Majesty the Emperor Mcn«lck IL)
Inclostirc in above letter.
(TkaductiOM)
Sa Majctttf Victoria, par la gtixn de Dtea Rcine de ta Grande-
Bretagfic et tflrlandc Impdratrice dcs lodes, el Sa Maj<-tt<^ M^ndefc II.,
Roi des Rois d'Ethiopie difsireux de farli6eT et de rendte plus elEcacc el
advantaKcu-'te t'anctenne amititi qui exiwe entre le« deox Royaiunca.
Sa Majeittf la Reine Victoria ayant oommf comiiM md EnvoW
Extraordinaire et Reprtfseniapt auprta de m Matestri PEnfMnor MffHW,
{ame» Rennell Rodd Esquire. Coopacnon de rHenoraUe OtdredaSaiid- ^
lichcl ct Saint Gcorxcs, doot les pieinG pouvoirs oni iti rcooBiwa el ^t
bonne en due fomie ; et ^|
Sa Maiesl^ rEmpereurMtedelc,a(isuiMensonprofHre DnmcoaHRo
dcs Roit d'Rtbiopic-
Se Mnt nccordfs Hur, et oat conclu, les Articles ant soiveni, ^
lesquel* ib a'cngageiit eux-mteea, ainti que lews Mtlticn et mc-
ceaseure ; —
ARTICLK I
Lea sujeit et prot^g^ de chacnne des deux Parlies ContractaBW
atiront pteine liberie d'enirer, de sortir, «l d'exercer leur commerce 1
les temloires de I'autre Jouissani de la protection du (fOuventemaat
sou* la juncliclion iluquel ib tie trotivcni. mais II est iatndu aas
bandes ;irnu^<> tlune part ainsi oue ile I'autre de trarerser les framUrsi
ilii voistn -tinis un prtftexie quctconque sans peraiiiSMHi ["^fslahla dn
autotil^s compAentos.
ARTICLE II
Les fronii^s da Protectoral Brituinique sur b cAte des
reoonnues par Sa Majesty Mcnelilt, senni r^\im uttwiemoMM
I
laam V
APPENDICES
479
nge de oMcs entre James Rennel) Rod<l, Eiquire comme Rcprd-
int de Sa MaJ«t4 la Reine ei Rat Meconen. comme R«pr^i«nt.-int
Sa Majesty r£mpereur M^a^lek «u Harrar. Cei notes atiimt
ftnncx^ au pr^4«nl Traiid dont dies fc-micruiit |>iriie iatjgnile sil&t
qu'ellcs ont ^^ upprouveiSs par Ics Hautcs Parties Conttactanlet. En
Utendiint, le statu quo tcra nuintenu.
ARnCLB Itl
II est convenn q»c la route des caravancs entre Zeila « le Harrar par
vote De Gildesu retten ourene dans toul son parcours au commetce des
deux naiiiHi*.
ARTICLE IV
Sa Majett^ rEmpereur d'^thiopie de son c6t^ accordeia k la Grandc-
Bretagne et »e% Colonie:i en ce qui concerne droits de douanc ct impAo
int^rieura toua lei aranta^Cs igu'il accunleia aux sujels d'aulres nation*.
tc Pamre cfltrf, tout materiel des(in<^ excluiivement au wrvice de I'Etat
ltiio|Men aura te droit dc pa&Mr en £ihlopie par Ic port de Zetta en
franchue dc douanc »ui deinande dc Sa Majesiii t'Empcieuc
CABTICLE V
Le tnuuit de loiu les engin* de guerre d»tin& k Sa Majc«(tf
PEmpereur d'^thiopie «t autoriw! i traveri le* lertitoires dependant
du Guuvernemenl de &a Majesty Britannique *otis lea condilionc
preacntes par I'Acte G^^ral de la Conference de BnureUes signi^ le 2
JulUet 1890.
AKTICIX VI
Sa Majesli^ M&iSefc II Roi de» Rois d'^tbiopie t'engagc via-a-vis
du Couvcniement Britannique, h empMwr de ton mieiii Ir pasuRO &
timven de son Empire deiannes et tnunitmns aux .Mahdi«lcs, qu'il
d&larc ennemia de son Kinptre.
Le present TrjiM- entrera «n vicMtir iitAt que la fatiKcaliop de Sa
Majeili! Britannique &cra notilioi S Sa Maicstd rEmpereur d'Eihiopie,
main il est cnicndu que let Dretcriptiotis dc I'Anicle VI seront mues
en cxt^cution a pdrlir du jout de sa signature.
En ioi dc mmi Sa Majot^ Uin&dc II. Roi des Rois d'Eihiopie en
son proprc noiti et Kennell Rodd, Esquire, pour Sa MaJcM^ Victoria
Iteine de la (irande Bretaune el d'Iretaiide, lmj)^TaUice dcs Indcs, ont
■igtids le pcdsent Traill (ait eu deux exemptaires, ecril en Anjflnis et
en Ambaiique ideniiaucinent Ics deiu tcxtcs cuutl constd^r^ comme
officiels, et yoni affixd Icurs sce^ux.
Fait a Adis Ablnba, le 14 Mai^ 1S97.
(Seal of HiB Majesty the Emperot Menelek II.)
Mr RODO to the Euperox Mknblbk
Adb>Amuuia, Mar M. 1897.
Yotnt Majesty,
I have (he honour to ackiwwledee the receipt of yoat
Majesty's letter inckwing the French translation of the Treaty which we
■ra to i^ this day in Eoglish, and Amfaark, and 1 agree, on behalf ot
my Covernmenl. to the proposal of ymir Majuty, that in case a diver-
gency of opinion should anae hereafter as to the correct tnlerpretatioa
480
MODERN ABYSSINIA
to be K'vea cilbcr to the EnslUh or Amhuk text the Frotcli traaiUtkNi
iliauld be accepted a* fumiiniBa a toiniian of the matter under diipuie^
In recordiQg tbii aaaunace 1 hurt, Stc^
(Si{;ned) Kemmrll Rodo.
(TtADUCnOK)
ADDt-AaaAaA It JUti 14. itgf,
VontK Ma/bstA,
J'ai rbonneur d'accuMr inception de la l«iir« de vom
Majeit^ m cnvoyant la traduction Fran^se du Tr«iti^ qui Mn aigirf
entre boot aujautdliui en Rn£liis d en Amharique el j'occcpU^ an tMsn
de man Coaremincnt, Li pio|xnitlon de voue Majext^ que dans le cai
ou il y aurj ^ I'uveoif divergence <fopinion sur nntenir^tation convae I
dooaer ou aii lente Anglaii ou an tnite Amtuuique, b renkn Fian^am
qui a M adoptee de part et d'autre conune suCBsante sera acoqKJ
cotnrae irtieipretant la matiere en dispute.
£d dotiDOnt cctic assurance 1 voire Majesty J'fti &C.
(sign^) RKNtTEix Rooa
ANNEX III
Mr RonD to Kas MAKrmtAN
Hakrak. /umt 4. 1897 (aS OnUM tOf^
Peace be unto yon.
After fricndiy discumion iRtb your ExceUoncy I have understood
that His Majesty the Emperor of Ethiopia will recnjtniH as rrtmiia 0/
the Briiith protectorate on the Socnali Cocut the line whkh starting (ram
the Scii at the point lixed in the Agreement between Clteai {tritam and
France on ilie gth Febnurv 1888, opposite the wells of Hadoo, folbwi
(h« caravan road, dcMrribed in that aK'^'"^<< tliroueh Abbasotwa til it
reachc* Ibe hill of Somadon. From ihi^ point on tbt read dw lint b
tiiwed bv ibc Sair moumnins and the hill of Egu to Mora Medb : frooi
Moga Medlr it it tnccd by Eytlnta Kaddo to Arrnn Arrhe, near the
htlcrsection of latitude 44' cast of Greenwich with longiitidc «* tiank.
From itiit point a Mnifht Ime is dmwn 10 the imeneciion of 4r But of
Greenwich with 8* north. From here the line will follow the franilar bU
down in the An^u-Italian Protocol of the 5ih May 1894. until it rendia
the tea.
The tribe* occupying cttber side of the line shall have the tiffa W
use the gnuing grounds on the other side, but during their tnigtatlocM tt
is tuderaiood thai they shall be subject to the jurisdiction of the ttntwlil
AUlioThy. Free access to the nearest wells is equally rotuved w tto
tribes occupying either side of the Une.
This understandinc in accordance with Article tl. of the TiMty
signed on the 14th May lityj (7th Genboc 1SS9) by Hit Majesty IW
Emperor Mmeki: and Mr KcnnctI Rodd at Adis-Abbabe tmoi bt
approved by the two Hiitb Cootractinf Parties.— I have, &c
(Signed) RXMNKLL ROOO.
(Traductiok}
Hamas, b 4 /miU ttvf (t i^mJm tmi.
(Snlat).
ApWts discussion amicale avec voire ExceDence J'fti compritqoe sa
Mj^est^ I^Bmpereur d'Eibiopie recontnltra cmnme ftonii^ do Pr*-
McioiM Bitamalqua sur la c&te tlM Soosalis la Ugne qui pwUnt de la
I
i
1^
APPENDICES
481
Finer h I'endroit Rxi pai I'accord entre la GnaJe Bretagne et ta France
'«D F^vtier 1888, vig-^-vts1»i»ut3 d'Hadou. iuive la n>ui« ites caiavanes,
traci! dans «t acourd, qui pasie par Abbasouen, juuju'i la coUine dc
Somadou. A p»iir de ce point sur U coum Is lignc tf-l tiac6c par Ics
monUKnet dc Saw et la coUme d'Egii justju'ii Moear Medir ; b panir de
Moga Medir die ch tncic en lignc drone par Eylinia Kaddo jusqu'i
Anan Arrtie prts dc I'inierieciioo dc 44 dcgids e« dc Greenwich ct 9
degr^ nord. De ce point une ligne droiie «era ttacec jii»qu'i I'inter-
scdton de 47 d«gr^ est de Greenwich ct 8 derr^ iwrd. A paitir d'ki
Ib lignc auivia )e Irac^ de la fronti^ indiqM par le Protocole Angti»-
Ilalien du i Mai 1894, jii*tiu'-H la roer.
Lcs iribus habitant tiliaquc cAti5 de la ligne aurimt le droit de
ft^uenter Ics pAiurages d'un c6i£ ainsi que dc Tautre, mais il e6t
entcndu tjuc pendant le«r migrations ils seroni soumiscs Ji la juridiction
de I'auioriK; tcrritorialc Un acccs librc aux puits l«s plus procbcs est
tiatni {galcnicnt aux habitants de chaquc cAti de la ligne.
Ce( accord conform^ent a I'Articlc il. du Trai(£ sign^ le 14 Mai
tS97(7Genbot iSEg)parsa Mnje»i£ L'Empereur M^ndcket MrRenncIl
Rodd it Adis-Abbaba doit £trc approuv^ par les dcui Hautet Patues
Conuactantes.— J'ai Ute^
{S\ga€) Remn&ll Rodd.
Ras Makvnan to Mr Rot>D
(Translation)
Sent Trom Ras Makunai), Governor or Hamr and its dependencies.
May this reach tba Hoiwarable Mr Keooell Rodd, Envoy of the Britbh
Kingdom.
I inform you to^y iliat al^ long friendly disciistion, the boundary
of the British Somali Proicciorate upon which we have agreed b as
fiiUows:—
Starting from the sea-shore opposite the irells of Hadoa (as on whkb
tfae French and the English Goveminenti agreed in February tSSS) it
follows the carai-an road to AbtMSMuen till Mount Sarandou; froon Mount
SuMdou to Mount Saw, from Mount ^aw to Mount Ejto, from Mount
Egu 10 Mova M«dir ; starting from Moga Medir, it goes in a direct line
to Eylinia Kaddo and Anan Anhc on 44' east of GreeDwich, and 9*
north, and again in a direct line unlit 47' east and S* north. Mmt this
the boundary- follows the line on which the English and the Italians
agreed on tbc 5ih May 1894, until the sea.
The subjects of both the Contractinj; Parties are at liberty to cross
their frontiers and graxe their cattle ; but thetc people, in ev«ry place
where they go^ mtist obe^ the governor of the country in which they are,
and the wdb which are in the nciijb bout hood shall remain open for the
two partio.
These two letters on whidi we have agreed, according to Article II.
of tbe Treaty of His Majesty the Emperor of Ethiopia and Mr Rennell
Rodd of tbe 7th Gcnbot i88ft i4tb May 1897, tbc two sovcrcijpt having
seen tbcm, if they approve them, shall be s^iied again (ratified).
Written at Harar, the sSth Genboi 1889, 4th June 1S97.
(Signed) Ras Makumam.
2n
482
MODERN ABYSSINIA
Mr RODD to the EttpnoR Menelek IL
Caiio. A»tmUjoiK tiff.
From Mr RRKMEtL RonD, Special Envoy of Iler Majesty QueCB
Victoria, to His Majesty Mbhei.Ej: II. by the Grace of God, KiB(
of Kings of Ethiopia.
Peace be unto your Majesty.
1 have the honoor (o announce that the Queen, my gtacious Sovereign,
has been pdeased to approve aad ratify the Treaty which I bad lae
honour to &i^ with your MajeMy on ihc U'h May last
Her Ma;c»ly has also been pleased to appro^-c of the amngeaieiit
wlikh, in accordance witfa the terms of Anicle II. of the Tnaijr, wai
a^ced upon between Rat Makunan, as Rcpretcntative of yonr Majesty,
and myKclf, by cxchan)[e of noict iclaiii-e to the frontier of the British
Protectorate in the Somali Coail ; and it is presumed by Her ktajesty'i
Covemnient that your Majesty has also approved of it, as they hart
received do notificatioo to tbe cootrary.
Tlie notes escbait^ed have accordingly been aniMxed to the Treur
which has received rmification, signifying Her Majesty's approval of all
ihcM dociuucRia.
[ have now the honour to return herewith the copy of tite Treaty
tnliuMed to me by your Majesty with its ratification in due fenn.
When I shall have received from your Majesty a letter ngni^rini
that this Treaty, thus ratified ami approved, has come safely lo yoor
Majesty's hands, it tvill be made public by tbe Goventment of the Qneen
that ail her sul>jects nMy obser\'e it and abide by it, and that it may
itren);t))en the hcs of friendship between our countnei, and incmae tbe
(cclings or»tecm and good-will towards i-our Majesty, wh»dt IJM re-
ception of the British Mission in Ethiopia has awakened in my ONntry.
I pray that your Majesty's lifie and health may long be prnw»wd,
and that your people may have peace and prosperity.
(Signed) Rbnnbu, Roon
The Emperor Msnblkk to the Qusbm
(Trakslation)
Memxusk II. Elect of God, King of Kings of Etbioiiia, to Me
Gracioas Majesty Qaeen Victoria, Queen of Great BtiuUa aad
Ireland and Empress of I ndia, Upholder and Keeper of tbe CbrtMkii
rilipon.
Mav Peace be unto you.
Your Majesty's letter of ibc iSth Haml^(3rd August), aiM) axnd (ivd)
Mascarein (ta) ind October 1897, and the Treaty with the Croat SesL
dated the aSth Haml^ (3rd August) 1897 have reached mc, and wt
recei%'ed it with joy. The Treaty of Peace, which it now between year
Government and oer Govctnmcnl, we hope it will ever tncreiM In
ftrmnets and last for ever.
We ask Cod to give your Majesty health, and to your IdagdWR
qaietiMss and peace
Written at Adls-Abbaba tbe 8tb December 1897, A.D.
(Seal of His Majesty the Emperor Mcndtk II.)
1
i
i
dk
APPENDICES
488
APPENDIX V
RAimr Days in Abyssihia per month, from April to
Dbcbmbrr
1896
April put
May
TbrM (Uys Showery
Five „ .
nil Medium
3 1.
nil h
Icav
n
une
aly
Three «
11
3
fl
5
It
Two „
■f
7
■*
19
H
August
Five „
ti
9
H
11
It
September
Eighi „
n
S
»
4
n
October
EiKht «
M
7
m
3
N
November
Five „
m
1
»
t
It
I>ec«R)b«r
Three „
m
•1
nil
It
I give Ihi* rou{{h mcniorandtini knowing tiill well that ii is of little
or no value, but ii woi impOK»ble to miike any scientific record owing to
the want oi necessary appliances, so the number o( tivcbes of the rain-
fall cannot be calculated but it rou» ht very heavy. July and August,
the betfhl of the rainy season, bail iweniy-eight and twenty-ux days on
which It rained respectively, and Octobci, nhcii the rains arc MppOSM 10
be from all accounts ncjirly over, there were eighteen. The only place
where observations arc made is in the Italian colony o<f Kiithrea, and
fotm what can be gleaned from ihc natives, Ihe fall in central Ab)-uinia
is heavier than in the nonh as ihe mounuinous resion is of Urger area
and greater altitude this is likely, and the rainfall retjistereu in the
Italian colony would give no idea what it is in the south and central
plans.
In June 1B98 in Shoa it rained on twenty-seven dsys, in July twenty
rix, and in August in the Hamr district and on the road to Bcrbcrah
tbereweretwentydaysonwhkb rain fell 1 perhaps thn two worst days' rain
of (be Maton was on the asih aod 36ih August, on the able4and prairies
between Jigjiga and Aimbeeo, when many inches muM have fallen. As
far as myc<iperieiloeof Abyssinia goes there is no exact day f«r the mint.,
OS they d^ktiA 00 the south-west monsoon ; about the middle of June
tmy he sbkI that the rainy season has commenced, but it mav be ten
days earlier or a few day« after this date. By early September the wont
is orer, but botb September and October some yearn may be WM inontiisu
The spring rains, or what may be called Uie lillle moasoOD, commence
about the nuddk of April and perhaps last for three weeks, when the
weather Rets fliM a<ain and hot, some yeati the spring rains entirely fail.
Winter rains 00 the lower slopes of northern Atirssinia are sooietimca
very heavy, but thcv also in Mxnc ^cars are nearly wanting. I do act
think any nilc can be laid down with r^ard to the raini, as there are
many cxcentioos. One rule hotels good, uiat a low Nile in Kg>pt means
a general uiortness of rain in Abyuinia over a Urt;e area ; but still local
districts in the bigheit atiiiudct mav not suffer, and perhaps just as good
crops are crown m the country and just as lari;e an are* it cultivated,
tm tbere is not Ibe surplus water in the rivers to find iia way to Egypt.
KU
484
MODEHN ABYSSINIA
APPENDIX VI
LIST OF ANIMALS MET WITH IN ABYSSINIA AND
ON THE BORDERS
lAOf iFtUt Itf). Abyuinia, Erithiea and the borders. Now sCAmr
ihin formeriy owing to i)te inluibitnnu of ihc country being wmed
with brcech-loodDrs- Kxtinct in Ceoinl Abyuinia except in ibc
tropical valleysi when they occasionally oocur when they are drivco
from ibe low coantriet by the floods.
Lkopaxd {Felis panltuy Numcroos in manv of the uncultivated porta
of tfae couatnr and in the inaccessible clifii surroanding the valleys ei
the priodpu rivtn. The bUck leopard t* conmoB, bat 1 belicTC it
to b« merely a frequent occurreoce of melanism, as from native
accounts both the spotted and black are found in the wune litter,
and it is very seldom that a whole tiller of black cubs are found
though the mother is of that cotoor-
Sexval (Felit servaiy Not tmcoramon, and skins may be bought
occasionally ta the local markets. Found in the ndj[hbourt>ood
of thick jungle, and very destructive to the goats and sbcep.
Chketah (Cyntetunts Jitiatus). Common in nearly all the ancullivated
parts of the high and low lands where the smaller gaxellcs are
ptentiful.
Caracal {Lynctu (oraeai). The long-tailed, with Urge black ears with
bUcklasseU. A specimen to the South Kenungton Nntuial History
Museum. Abo a thicker and shorter -tailed one with smaller ears
and sntaller tassels, the colour of the fur being much lighter and
brighter.
EcvrriAN Wild Cat (Felis inanuulitla). The same as met with la
Egypt and the Soudan. Most destruciive to the poultry, wild
guinea-fowl and francolin.
CnST {Vivtrra iiitila). Common in most ports and kepi ia captivity
for its mu>k, which is largely used and exported.
Gknet {GetuStii lygrimi}. Both the blottiied and pole cwM an
common.
ICHNKUHON AK& Mt'KGOOES {Htrfiett*t\ There ate several dlMinU
kinds of this family. They vary in site from the Urge Egyptian
mongoose to a dark brown one the sire of a small English femt
ZORiLU: (U/iilmj'r Lihds). The Egytnlan kind Is rarer than tha
Ictidonyv loriUa or South African kind, which is common up to
about teoo feet altitude.
W&ASXLS {MusUlida). There are representatives of this speeiaii, hnt
they are hard to procure and ditlicull to ohxerve, owing to tMr
nocturnal habits and the rocky country cohered with a tbtck unde^
growth of vegetation in which tbey pass the day.
Hv<X)>A(A(r<"M tlriala <!«>/ /^r^Ma ^rvcwAs) are both oommoo. Tbm
are many of these aniniats with ver>' irregular marked >kin«,«tfylika
a cms between H.S. and H.C They are found throuaboul the
whole of Abyssinia and at the highest elevations, to that uiey vwt
be petfccity hardy.
Fox i.VMifififa!U<la\ The Egyptian fox ii found in the k>w cmtmrir.
In ihe highlands there ia another fox very itBUUr to tht Engbh
I
i
i
APPENDICES 485
oat, and a nrtr one very dark, neutly Muclt, whkh I bave teen on
three occavoiu. hfelaDism may account foi tbc colour.
Featva: (Vii^ Ztroa) which is exactly (h« same as the coinmon
Fennec (muid b Egypt and Nubia.
Aakd Wolf {ProUlts erutaftu). CamiDon in tbe low lands and foot
hilU where white anis abound.
HUKTiMG Doc {I.yeaon fiitiui). A rare animal, never nnmetoiu, but
ucnciiines Tound in uic uninhabited ptaiiiet.
Jackal (Canit aureus ami Canis mesomtlai). The common and btacic-
backed iackats are both very numerous throughout the high and
low lanoiiand do great damage to the flocks of sht«p and goats,
which are easier captured than the oribi, duiker, and other small
antelopes. There U a vjriesaied coloured jackal which may be
a cross between C.A. and CM.
AbvssimiaH Otter, it nta^' be {Im(m Cipensii) of South Africa, but
tbe one l>Da&d in AbyMima seems to be larger and darker than that
of the south. It inhabits all the rivers anil %m3\\ bkcs ihnt abound
in fish. Where otters are numerous, croc (yliki arc very scarce or
do nM exist. The cry of the otter at night lime ii attributed by
Mtne Abyssinians to evil spirits, or to the sboMi of men who have
been drowned in crossing the riven when in flood.
Ratbl {Mtllivora fiaittj. Common In many parts of Abyssinia and
in tbe low country- The natives place their bee-hives in trees, nr
fastened to the inside waUi of the bouses, to (irevent tbe rate! from
oblabiing the boney. This animal is a Esir climber on rouvb
nrfaces, but unable to climb sroooib trees. The skin of the raters
buck makes tbc best and toughest sandals.
Porcupine {ffystrix criilala). Common in many parts of Abyssinia,
but not at any great altitude or in tbc t-ery cola country.
Aard Vark {OrycUropris CapeHsis). Its fiy»|irin(t vwj' often met
with in the lower countries, but seldom seen owing to its noctunul
habits.
Hkix;khoo {Errnaceus auritut). The lonen^arcd hedgehog very often
met with in tbe high and low Uniis. Easily donvcsticated and moat
useful, killing large quantities of scorpions, centipedes, white ants,
sra.ill snakes, etc
HabK (Ijpus Atgyfitiut). Common in the low countries fitting the north,
west and east ; in tbe highlands its pbce is taken by a latger spedes
{LrpHt Aiyuimatf). This animsl is not eaten by tbe Abysstnians,
wbu ttguid it as unclean. During the rinderpest that raged over
the gieater portion of Africa, an epidemic disease attacked both
L.£. and L.A., and great numbers perished, and they are now
very Karce and cannot be relied on as an addition to the pot.
HVRAX {Hyrax Abytsinicus) is common wherever there are cliffs and
rocks. There are at lea» Ave different kinds found in the country.
The Shoan the largest of all, two others are likely H. Cipensis and
tbe Syrian Hyrax, and a small spiny one of a light brown colour.
A'.A— There are in Abyssinia spny varieties of the byrax,
squirrel, nit, mouse, shrew and jerbille.
S41IKREL (Sdurui Y The squirreJs of Abyssinia are very numennis,
and can be divided into the groum^ rock and tree aquirrelt inhabiting
486
MODERN ABYSSINIA
boih tbe high and tow couniriea. Tbe groand speciet are tint met
with, and ue foand all round the borders along the bigti road*.
Tbete are three dininct kiods, one a spiny one. 'fhe tock MiinrreU,
of which I have obMn^d two, arc larger than the ground ipecici ;
and tbcTC are three di'tiinct sorlt of tree squirrels, varying in size
Irotn that of tbe common Kngtith Miiiirre) to om of three times its
she, with a beautifully marked black, chestnut and light brown fitr.
Rat and Moi;se (.1/ur y Many varieties of rats and mice aboand
both in the highljinds and lowunds. Tbe brown or Norwegian
rni is met with m the larger Northern lownt, but it is not so commoa
as in mott couniriu, or as the black rat which is very conunon.
Tbe Abyssinian rats are more of the jerbiUe order. A fight brown
rat with a spiny back is c«)cnmon. Mice are numerous and oi
varied descriptions i the light brown field mouse with yeUow bands
and spots bemg oRen met with. It ^-arles somewhat from tbe
Barbary mouse.
Gerboa {Difius Aegyfitiu^. Common in the low countries. _
JKRBIU-B. The same as foond in tbe Soudan. Both the rat and mouse
siws bein^ very numerous, also a spiny one of each sort. So common
in the agnculiural districts as freqaenily to become a pest, and iba
most dMtniciive of all the rodents.
SliR£w. The shrew mouse is found in damp places and of three de-
scriptions : A large one and a very small onc^ and a bristly or spiny
shrew of a medium sire.
Mole {Taipa\. Very common in tbe highlands and in the water
meadows of Central Abyssinia.
DaTSl Many ofthe smaller sorts are common, both lonf and short-eared,
ihey are all of the insect ejtllng order, and inhabit the toafs of the
chorcbes and other large buildings.
MOMKBVS
GUERBZA {Cfie^s Cuerrxa). Common in aU tbe forests of sotuben
Abyssinia. A fniii and insect-eatbis animal, and living speciowns
very hard to obtain. Long ^tky black and while liv, whkfa b
grMlly sought after for making capes. A larga black guereai b
wand in the forcsl« of Waag and Lasta, but is verr rare. It tives
in the coldest and highest part of the country, and should be a very
hardy animal and not rciquirc being kept in a tempeiature suittd
to tropical monkeys.
Gelada (T^rvpititmi gtlada). The coounoncsl of all th« osoakeys
south of the Tacaxte river. Tbe old males grow to a very lars* ate
and have big black-brown manes ; the young are often kept la
captivity anamoke amusing and intelligent pets. They aru nimd
bt tbe colder portions of the WuUo and Sboan counlries and may be
called a temperate climate animal. They generaUylive in very btgc
troops and do a great deal of mischief in the grain fields unless Ikey
are driven awa^; after the harvest is over It is an intercsitng siiflii to
tec then) gteanuig, as they often work in lines, and at sotne rflfini*ft
might be mistaken for human betngs. They altrays post smmM
to prevent them being surprised by leopards which onen captutv lbs
young ones, (he older ones generally gel away up some big svcaaaore
ig- tree Or up tbe nearly perpendicular cliffs where the leopard csBMOl
niknr. Their sleeping places are always on the diiTsidei wbkh tkqr
N
I
APPENDICES 487
> not leavt (Ul the sun is up. From the altitude In vhich it lim it
is very hardy.
Thoth BA.BOOH (P^'o UMh\ or papioD or dog-faced baboon, lake*
the place of the j[dada in nortbem Abysnnioi and on the foot hills
P round tbe Inmtier. Tliis is equally destnictii-e to the cropa, often
desiroyint,' large fields of dhum or holcus sorghum bdore tbe
grain is ripe, oa it is veiy fond of tbe sweet stalks. The male
papion n larger than ib* ni*l« geblda and has a much big^r mane,
^m and his hind pari* are not K> well covered, be b an ugUer animal ia
^B every te«pecL The female papion has not the bare pinkish breasts
^B of tbe female gclada, and it is curious tbe diflerenc* betocen the
sexes of the two species, that the male of one kind and tbe female ot
the other should be belter looking than in the other species. The
habitat of tbe two ipectes ii much the same, and their great enemy
is the leopard 'lliey leem to be greatljr friishteoed of any adult
human being when armed merely with a stick and iliey will always
I leave the grain fields when ihey approach, but they arc not so
^ft frightened of chtliiren and will often snow a bold front to them. I
^P have never Iieitid of their doing any mischief cither to women or
children in Abyuinia, and the tales of their ferocity are travcllcn^
yarns.
Gt;K}iOK {CtrufiiAKUj saiaus) or tlie grivet guenon is perhaps the
commooctt of the species of gucnons represented in Abyssinia.
Afier the grivei comes tbe larger green guenon and ibe Icswr, which
are two distinct species lh*t« can be no doubt, as (be ICMcr is fre-
quently seen in the lower tropical countries and ii not b.^f ihc ^iie
of the green. Further to the wett the red kind it found, am! %kinf of
ia pure white one are aUo found, and live specimens have also teached
tM coast, and [ believe they have lived as far as southern Europe.
These monkeys nio^e over a fairly high altitude, and are found up
as hi^h as 9000 feet down to the tropical forests. They make most
amusing and affectionate pels and arc quite harmless, tiviiig on Ibe
wild fruit and insects— locusts, grasshoppers, Dying ants and grabs of
an sorts being Iheir favourite food.
AKTF.t.OPE
■vUDOO (S/refitiartii Kudu\ The Urge kudoo is 4^till found in all the
^^ forests and uninhabi(e<i valleys of Abyiiinia, from the north to ihc
^K soatb.but to ever-decreasing numbers. In the centre of ihecouatrf
^B it will shortly become extmct. and before Abyssinia cin become
^B civilised enough to have game laws, this and many other of the large
^f Species of antelope will cease to exist. Alt the bovine antelopes
suffered grtut/ auring lh« eptdcmic of rinderpest which lasted so
many years, aiM wa« MiU going on in a milder form in 189S.
Lusm Kudoo {Stnfitktrot imieriii). Found on the southern and
•ftstem slopes of^ Abyssinia but never in great numbers, and not
nearly so b^tiently met with as -S.K.
BtlSA {Oryx gattlla) and {Oryx Mta). Tbe two kinds are known by
the Arab-speaking hunters as tbe beisa. The common one in t1>e
north if the oryx ganlla or gemsfauck, and the oryx beisa is also
found tbeic, and throughout SonialtlaiKl. Getting scarcer in the
nonk, but still common on the lower prairies of tbe south, and in
the DawUdi country.
df^
4S8
MODERN ABYSSINIA
OKYX Lcucoryx. Still to be met with in the oortb of AbysstoU and
the Danakil caunlry, but vaj rare in both places to what it nsed to
be a few years ago.
Roam ASTBtXtri [//ifl^/ra^j ryuinas). Plentiful in the nank-we*l
and east up tiU tnc TicdcrpeM broke out, now reported at vcfy
scarce.
DirASiU {Cchus Jtfiiaa). Fotuid in the Bogot coimtJT, Ainseba and
Baica livers. The soathern representative is {Cohis tllipiiprrmimi)
which i» (bund in the tminbalHted vaUeys that drain into tae Blue
Nile and Tacauc riven.
TOKA {Buialii it>ra). Tbe common barlebeest of the north and BoROS
land, la tbe south the hartebeeil is represented by two specimens,
Bubalb Swaynei and a much darker coloured one found rmmd
Ji(;jisa and in ibe upper hiifhUnd prariet.
GlKENHUK {LitAoeranim IVaUrri). Jobabtts the south, touib-euten
nod eastern borders. One of the most peculiar looking aninuls of
the antelope tribe, witli its Ion;,' caineMilte neck and hmg thin legs.
When uoiting, aitd with neck outstreicbed, tt has the appearance of
a drooiedary. The Somalis and Abyssinian Maboroedans will not
cat tbe meat of this animal, owing lo a peculiarity in the females.
Tbey are not hunted, and are therefore more numerous than any
oOter of the antelopes, and are boMer and easier to approadk I
have often watched them, and tbey are most intcrcsiing aniinals to
look at.
{^wtmodorctu Clarkei), or CUtlcc's gaidl*^ found on the lower slopes of
BMlhcm AbvMinia, and on the bush covered uplands. In nabits
not unlike the ^tcnhiik, bul not nearly so lame. The upland
Ammodorcas is darker and rather larger than tbe lowland One, but
may only be a variety.
ifiattlla S<'mtKfringi\ commonly but wrongly called the Ariel, is perhaps
mora freqticnily met with than any other of the guelles, and Is oftca
foond in vast herds. It hardly erer is found above an altitnda ef
aooo feeL I have seen it in the north of Abysidnia (ceding w^ tba
Bocks and herds betont;in|{ lo tlie natives. It is easily tamed ud
breeds in captivity, but the old males sometimea cet very vicKMi
with sUangCTs, and they arc more than a inaich rar a fgooA'iiatA
dog or jacul.
GazKIXB {Gattlla Dffretu), {Gaailiit Araiiai). The gaielle is found
over a l.tr^er area of country than nny of tbe other species, and
slight vaneties of this aninul have been given different naaia*,
whereas tbe dilTcrcnce may be attributed to an adaptation of jtt ex-
lemal colouring, to tbe conditions of the life It lcs)is,and ihe vicinity
in whkh it it found, ft is common all round the frontier, and U
found up tn about the same elevation as Gaiella SommcrinrL I
have shot CD. and G.A. from Eg)pl lo well inside tbe boners flif
Abyssini:i alon^ [he Q-e«tem shorei of the Ked Sea and from Ycnbo
to near Aden on the eastern side, and on many of the UBinhabind
UaiKls of the R«d Sea, and the one with the dark band aloag ifce
fide win be found with the one without the dark band. TbenTi snl
4
the marked diflerence between CD. and C>A. as there is
IDtrtalrtigia M*iagott4\ live hill ganlle of Somattland a>Ml the
bofdofa of Abyssinia, nnd {dtulla Pttef/m) the lowland gtunHt,
which is not found in Abyssinia.
APPENDICES
489
us la/tafor). Ttits prctl/ lliilc aiURiftl \a found
t- nf Aby^^ioia rikI is common among tbit clillil
.'rgca towni. Its tleth is delicious, p«rbap« the
: I aotdopet ; it i* perfectly h^rdy ana ibould do
'Eitnedout 1 1 it foiuid upon the bigheM eleva-
. ,: ami LasU it was catnmon at an Oration of
1 .■amfieifris). This is the only repitsentiUive of
Abyutnia, common in tlie Uarar province voA in
M Aiystiitiaii), is common ihrousboui the wtiote
iiore especially in (he aonh : in the »outli, besides
iiiiker is found which Mcnis to me to be exactly the
ilophns CriniDU of Nyassaland. This latter is very
■ \ the town of H>rar, and comes at niehi time to wiihin
• yards of the waIIs of the town to feed on the khai
I'he flesh of the duiker is much liked by the
Oribia Afysiimcus\ This is also vety common in all
ub near the viltavei, and ii found both m the north and
a good deal or dainuge to ibe yoxmg ow» and al«a
_ Uiat bees. There are three species : (XA., Oribb
I Mine as is found in N>-assaland, and a much smaller
' , whidi is fonod both in the north and south. O.H.
I animili snd not found anywhere in the north.
^ ua iaJiiana). The smallest of the Abyssinian ante-
/common in the low countries and foot hills. Good eating
■ily killed with small shot. \'cry dttfirull to keep in captivity
'~i IIS timkliiy. On the south and eaii border the Madoqua
takes the place tireally of M.S. and becomes the
er animal, but both are met with together. The dik-dik
Ily run in pairs, and the natives say they mate for life.
I animal U ouly^ found in ihe oonb, and is ilie same as ihc
\ and Sinai specks.
Repotted to be extinct on account of the rinderpest, ihey
eially met with in the north-west of Abyssinia.
' {Loxwionlit AfriMTUt). Stilt found but in always diminishing
Walkcti and the nonhem Daiukil country being the
I where it is most numerous in the north, Kni& in the south-
and during the rain* it is sometimes £iirly plentiful on the
slopes M the mounlj^ns from Aschenjp to the Hawash
^ and m the Arassi Galta country to the south-east. It soroe-
I crosses during the rains from the eastern to the western sides
Abyssinia alonv the bonks of the Mareb tiver ; from eastern
gejju along the Tacatie valley and along the Blue Nile Titlcy.
The Wmm province yields a lew annually, and it is reported m
{lirly picniiful in the unexplored Danakil country.
j>POTAUUS iHip^ttitmua ampkibiuiX Still numerous in all the
|v«rs cuch as IM Mareb, Tacaixe and parts of the Blue Nile, and
Lake Tsana, but extinct in all dte imaUer lakes and rivers that
to Ibe east Tbe Usi hipftopotanm* in the Haiar ptonnce
.tt
490
MODERN ABYSSINIA
wu killed Mine twenty yean ago in tbe Cherdier lake in the
Cheicher province, west of the Cunni province.
GiRArnc {Gira^ (tmulopardal{i\. Foand to the west of the Walkeil
npovincc in ilie lower country and reported oo the eaateni slopes of
Abyuinii in tbe Uanakil counirj'i the Hawash vslley, and to the
south of the Araasi country.
Zehra. Tbe common cebrm and Cre^-ys are foaind in the southern put
of the Danakil country, Hawo^ valley, and the Arusai cottnlry.
Wild Ass> Is aUo found in the same countries.
Crocodilr. This is Tound in nearly all the nuiin nvcrs »ad their
tTihatan«« that flow to the Nile. It Is of (he same species sa that
found in the Soud.-in and E^ypt and often attains enormous dimen-
sions. They make up stream during the rains which is their breed-
ing season, when the males enga^-c in savase baiile:i and are then
easily approached. They return nith the £)U of the water and the
young are then found in tlie isolated puoU. I'be rivers that flow
towards the Red Sea are free from the crocodile. It is reported,
homver, to exist in the Hawash river, but the evidence is not imst-
worthy and from French sources mostly. I have never heard of «
native kilting or seeing one. The Hawash is full of otters and so is
it! hrge tributary the Cassim, and these may have been mistaken
for crocodiles.
The game birds of Abyssinia are \-ery numerous and of nmn^ kinds,
and ranj[e down from the ottricb to the Kuropcan or passage quul which
b found in t>teal numbers during tbe winter. II arrives towards ilw end
of Seplcmber and Ica.ts again in Kebruflrjr. The ojirich i) found in the
Borth-wcst, on the eastern borders of Abystinb, and in the Hawash vaJtey.
The eggs of ilicse birds are used for decorating the pmnts of tbe crouca
which are placed on the apex of the roofs of all chuidws througboot
Abyssinia. The feathers are seldom u«:d. Thcfai ofihcbiid isanowyad
US a lubricant for rfacuroatism and for sprains, and when mixed wilb reaa,
citroiwUa and other scented oils, it applied to the hair not only for udot
but for sanitary purposes, and removmg the insects with which the b«iil
Is generally i&lcsicd. The next largest game bin! Is the big busianJ (CWi
ArMta\ tbe males grow to a large siae, and when bt wiU weigh a uitta
over 30 lbs., they T^m^c from lo lbs. upwardMbe bens an much smallcs,
say from 8 lbs. to i6 lbs. when in good condition. This boatard b fcoM
tbrougbout the whole of the counlt}- except in the rock^ and very brnkco
parts, and is a welcome addition to the commissariat, as its da^ it
eiceticat. There are three diderent kinds of smaller busUrd, one eaOly
tbe same as the Indian species, Kuppell's bustard, and a light \xvn
OIM There arc sin kinds of fmncolins, those found in the lower cmmin
C'iaC place lo larger birds in tbe higher altitudes, and in the Waag and
sta mountain i^ theicisanc-tity block species, the site of a ben phoaaaaL
Erdtel^ Ruppell's and llekc's irancoUns arc the most conunon. [n the
sootb, in tbe Harar province, there is a small grey fraocntin wbicb ii
excellent eating. There may be sever.-d more found ; I have only natiad
the above. Two kinds of partridges are common, the Sitial Ar^iu
pMUidgc^ and a handsomer and larger bird which Is very diRictill to tod
uales* a dog is used. The gutaea-Ktiri Is found wbetcvet there tea brt
of jungle in the virlnity of cultivation. It is very much the same as ike
Englisli species only a tilde darker, ai>d bas a peculiar homy baad wtkk
4
■.^
APPENDICES
491
■■ diSeitnt to the English bird. These birds vhcre th«y nn not macli
pibot at are very tame, and there it no difficulty in tiuking a Cktr bag of
(been : tbey aie excellent Uble binis when voung. There aie Iwo aorts
of geese^ tne coramontrr that is founil tlirout^nuui the country is ibe same
as [bo Egyptian or Nile goose, Ute goslings are wonh shooting, bat the
old birds are not worth wMting poiraer and shot over, at tbey an nry
tough. The second kind is only found in the Calla cowttiy, and I never
met with it north of ibe Tacane river ; il it about the none siie as tbc
other but of a grev colour «ith white and black markings, it i* also a
betiei table hird. DacksareverynumeTou-s and of many difFerent species.
The Kucopean kinds are represented by tlie common teal, the garganey,
ih« sborellcT, ibe golden eye, the tuf^ duck and the sheldrake. The
malUrd, pochard and widgeon are not met wiili. There are many ducks
that 1 have never seen in any other country thai must be indigenous 10
I Abv»inia. Two sortsof pochaids quite disimd Ironi the European Unl|
I and two kinds of gar^nncy, much larger thzn the European specie*, a
' black duck which when handled is seen to have a plumaee the colour of
a nilter'^rey rabbit. Sevcr^ other diving ducks are nixo common and
all are excellent eatint;. They are very tame ax they are never shot at, as
tbe Atwasioians do not eat them. Duck shooting, owing to the taraeness
of the iHrds, can hardly be called spun, they are la be found all the year
nMOd near the rivers, lakes, ponds and murahes with which tbe coiBUry
aboonds. Snl^ are found in all the marshy parts of Abyssinia, they
breed od the high bleak uplands ; during the rains they scatter greatly,
and in the dry season Ihov congregate in the damp places of the upper
plateaux where tbcjr may be found in hundreds, they ore identically the
same as tbe Egyptian bud. The painted snipe is rare but occasionally
met with. Plovers of many sorts arc met with, sandpipers, stilts, avocets,
and many other waders. Grebes of several sons, water'hens and coots
in myriads. Storks, cranes, herons, bitterns, egrets and other mursh
Urds. There are six distinct species of the Ibis, their discordant cries
at* one of the familiar sounds at the country. Pigeons and doves of
iBUr sons ; a very large green ftuil pigeon getting very fat and Is
•Kslient eating. A slaie-coloured pigeon with white markings on the
bead and wings congregates in large flocks at harvest-time after their
breeding season, and many cm be killed « ith a single discharge of the
gun. Tbe common Envlisb turtle dove visits Abyss4nia in the winter in
countless thousands, and the commoD cream-coloured ring dove is found
throagboat the low country.
Eagles of all sorts and sites abound. Vultures of every kind from
ibe Egyptian upwartls to tbe very largest ; kites, falcons, hawks and
harriers, and tbere is no country where so maay species are to be
found of this class. It would be impossible in the space nl my disposal
to eniuDcraie even a small portion of the diticrent families of birds which
are found in Abyssinia and on the bordcn. In about eight months,
during the Engliih expedition to Abyssinia along the road to Magdalo,
(wo hundred and ninety-nine dlfTctent birds were collected, and I diuesay
this hardly represents half of what really exist. A collection of the
entire Abyssinian birds would contain perhaps many specimens perfectly
I new 10 Natural History. It is oot only in the bird line thai Abyssinia
I 00m tuch a vast and interestine Held to (he naturalist, but for the
leaser aiutnal^ snakes, liMrds,fish,Duiicrflics, moths, beetles, and insects
I of all sorts whscb are all so numerous!)' represented. Tbe birds frequently
^^laet with to wbtdx one's attention is immediately drawn are the horabills.
492
MODERN ABYSSINIA
The large Aba-Cumtxi or eround hornlnlt, with hii tmmouc beak, H
■ecDircqi)eRlly,sciinetime«singlybut oftmerlDpainor io Hocks Rumbei-
ing about twenty ; tiKy ^tt very interesiing lo watch when hunung for
the snakes, beetles, liiaids, scorpions etc., onwhkh they feed, turning over
the stones under which tlicir prey ujualty hide. \Vtien the young of the
locam 1b their gras&hoppcr lorm .ire about, thcM bird* Koree tbcmKelves
to tnch an extent ihnt ihcy have emi difficulty in flying. The Secretary
bird is often met with, and on >«vera] occuiona I have seen a pair of
them attackii^ some large snake, dancing round it and one presenting the
tip of it* ouutretched wing for the snake to strike at, while the other
dashes in and pecks at the siuke's uil. When it commences lo get
tired, one of the birds will catch bold near the tnil and drag it along lot
a yard or two, and then when it is rxbauued will fly ko'ctaI feet up in
the air with it and dmp it to ibe ground, with each fall the snake gvts
bxbkf, until oik of the bird* (dies it and carries it up to an elevation
perhaps of two hundred feet and lets go, and then descend* lo Ibe groond
Djr docine it* wings nearly as soon as the snake, which u then strocfc
irilh (he beak at the back of the bead and killed. These birds seem to
kill the snakes for spon, as ilicy kill a ureat many more tbaa dwjr can
eat. There are roanv sorts of tree hombills : two are very common, the
fCUow and scarlet oeaked varieties, and are seen daily at the lower
eJerations. At Anun a pair of the scarlet beaked had their nest in a
hollow tree in the ^.trden of ihe bouse I inhaNtcd. Whea I arrived the
female bad already been plastered up in her nest by the male, who used
to feed her daily ; before 1 left the mad had been removed, and the
mother and two young one* were percbed on a neigbbouring branch t
the young not ful^ fledged, and the mother a moat dtsrepaUUe loekiag
objw, wi th ngiKM pltimatw and tinatite to Ay ; tha male WM ibw vsiy bwy
AS he had the iTiree to feed. There are many different kinds of waavcr
birds, which are most dcilructive to the grain rmps and spoil quuMltiM
of dhurra, which they wantonly pick and throw away. Tuy tauM
their hongini; boitle-shaped nest* dose together, and the AbyMiataM)
when the young birdi arc Just batched, pile immense heaps of drM
gracs ondcT the nests and set it on fire^ btmting the yoang latd mmof el
■he females who will not forsake (heir nests ; many of the males esdipa,
and very often in the thickly cultivated parts of the country at many as
twenty male* m^iy be seen lo one female. If these birds wera not
destroyed they would become a perfect pest lo the farmers. The tribe
of fly-catchers is very numerowly represented, the mo*t beautiful of all
beiiu; the Taiadiie fly-catcher, with bis tang white tail and black cfesled
bexfi this ptuiiiage be has onlvduring the breetlini; teaton.ai other tBaMBS
boisofacheitiiut colour, 'i'here is atioilier \-ery rare birxl of this ttlb^
which has four lone golden feathers in its tail, two that bend Hjiwaris
and ivn downwards, it U rather smaller than the Paradise fly-cauJi«,
and marked with >-ellow, black and brown. The Whldah binJs are afas
cotnrnon, and there are several sort* of Vidua, the yellow and black aad
the scarlet and black beinK the commonest, these are most mimMiB(
to watch, especially when a fairly strong wind is blowing, as tbdr iMg
tails seem to be a great trouble to them, and like a lady with a ionf ttiia
ofken proves vwDanaeeable. Thete birds are very laine oimI patch ■•
(h« long reed ^tiaa within a few feet of the rocul, and keep up a consttsi
mustcaTtirilterine in spite of the close proixiroiiv of the tnvellar. Then
is a very rare bird which I bdieve is also a Vidua, and 1 have met wilk
it only round Adowa ^ it b not as big as a^ Enilish wren. The
I4A
APPENDICES
493
during: ilic brc«diiig, an abmrdly long tail, which teems to take
it^e of it entirely wfaen it flieSi and wnen ibcre is the least wind
nring it hat tbc grcatett difficulty in progressing. The majority of
colouring is of a grey marked with liafat brown^ black and while.
■Tbe finch onvily is also well represeDiet^ and tlierr plumage during
die breeding seaion is eniirely different to what it is during VM rest of
iIm yMTi an insignificant little brawn bird becomes a radiaot scarlet, blue
or golden gem, and perched on some branch he shows olT before his more
^ sober dad mate, who is busy at work, cither building bci ncsi or hatching
' 'ler eggs. There are many different sons of starlings, the inctallic
Bdigo Mue kind being most common ; and many ot tne weaver birds
ii as the scarlet rumped weaver bird of Shoa and the luida superba
I in shape, walk and luibits identically the same as our Engbsh birds ;
' have abo the same gift of mimicry, and I have often watched them
listened to tbem copying the notes of otlier birds, and it would
bardly be belie\-ed that the suae notes procmded ftoin the one throat.
An tbese birds get abeuidty lame, and if food is thrown down to ihem,
they soon get bold enough 10 approach within a few fed. During a lone
illness at Admvo, the biras were my conttant source of amusement, and
, 1 had over twenty kinds that used to visit me morning and evening for
\ tbe common Anbian bul-buli^ that are very plentiful in Abyssinia,
Ito take bits of dates oGT the palm of my hand. There are leveial kinds
rabfna, Identical in their liaaits to the Kntjli^h ledbieatt, and they
" 1 in tm ihatcb of the bouses or in holes in the wall. They have a
Iptainiive little Mtig which they often ^ing about sunset, and on a
dd evening with tbe red glow in ibc west, which often occvrs at a high
tiudev tbc notes might be miu.^kcn for thai of their English brother.
, Swallows, swifts, house and sand mAitint arc all represented, besides the
£ng1tth tpeciet which visit Abyssinia in the winter ; Ibey alxo congre-
gate in large ^ocki in the month of March before they commence tJieir
letnrn flight to Europe. Among other winter visitants to the cotmtry
thai are laio«m in Kngland are tlie wryneck, water-wagtail of three kind^
irhe«lcar, neatly all the chats, red Btatt and several of the warblera.
Abyssinia possesses no humming blrda, b(K tbeir place is worthily filled
bjf tbc near!}! equally gorgwus nectarines or »n-tMrds, which vary in
sixc from a little mite of a bird with a body aboat twice the siic of a
bumble-bee to a bird thai measures Ailly six inches long. There ate at
least a doien different torts of these birds, one perhajM mote splendid in
colouring than the other, and il it a constant source of enjoyment watch.
ing them hovering over tbe llowcn and extracting the honey from their
cenitea, and also serving to imincgnaie tbe female blooms wiui the poflen
of the male. The delights of a large scmi-tTopical garden in Ab>-ssinia
an endless ; il is not only tbc conitant succession according to the
seasons of rare and common flowers, many of which are old English
fovonritet, but the myriad representatives of bird and insect life to be
watched enables tbe day to be spent with tbe greatest enjoyment, and
1 never found a day too long nor hare 1 regretted one single bour of my
life passed in this beautifel country with its glorious climate, studying
nature's book which has a binding of splendid scenery to add to its ocber
attractions. There it no good book poblished on the biids of thia part
ol Africa. Layard's lurds of Soatb Afirica is useful as there arc many
birds common to both countries-
L
494
MODERN ABYSSINIA
444444 4 44444444444 44 444 44 4
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a
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ea 553*^3
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h
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IB
APPENDICES
495
APPENDIX Vin
List of Abvssinian Titles accokdikc to Mr Wu- Schihpbr
NcgusK Negust . . Emperor or Emperor o( Kings.
Negus . . Kin^.
Ru Bettredet . Miniiier.
Auge .... High Chunbertain.
Rat Turk B«sha . General of infiuitry and soldiers.
Ras(oominoo) . . Chief of a country.
Dedjatanatch . . Duke (Dedjatchistbeabbre\-iatioo of thb word).
Atmatch . , . Conunooder of Dimion.
Keneiinatcb . . CoBimander of right wing.
Gerannatch . . . Commander of left wing.
Fituari .... Commander of advance guard.
Barrambaras . . Cuudian of a frontier.
Belau .... Chief of the 5u^ (a King's Belata is the Ras
Beiwedet)
Begcrund . . . Is the beati of a trade or a State Department.
SahafeiTiaat . Chief Secretarr.
Basfaa .... Head CuMoms Officer.
Cboum .... Chief of a district, villages or village. (Tlw
two exceptions are lh« titles of Waag
Choum and Choum Agamic, two Urge
provinces.)
Cbicka .... Minorchief of a village.
Negtadas . Amerchant or head ofa trade.
Negtdie ... .A pedlar or a man that buys and sells, the
I lowest of all the people of the community,
altboiugh perhaps the richest ; boneM intk
is lootca down on at present In iha
country by the high oAcitui.
The Government of Abyssinia is a despotic monarchy, and the kin^
seldom consults his inferiors except on great national events. There is
an appeal from the decision of minor rulers to the king, but in some
cases of a grave nature the complainant ne^-er reaches (he capital. The
king docs not like, as a role, to upset the decisions of his minor authorities.
APPENDIX IX
IMLIAN RCPIteSKNTATIVES
Cotodfi^letta January 1885.
Gcnenl Gene „ 1887.
Ctneral Saletia Februur>- 1887.
IN EKITIIREA SIKCK 1885
General San Mareano
General BaldUscra
General Orero
General Goodolfi
Battle of Dogali, Jan: 1887-
This goremor had been in
conunand when colonel.
February-
April 1 888.
December 1889. Took Asmara and Keren in
the bighUads.
January 1890. Occupied Adowa, and Ihen
retired leaving Italian agent.
Autumn 1890 to July 1891.
iMODERN ABYSSINIA
Ccnenil Baratieri
General Aiimomli
July 1891 to March 1896. Victories, Costit and
Seiuife, JantMfy 1895 ; ddcaia, Ambia Atagl,
Macail^ and Adoira.
Acting during General Raraticri's absence tn
Italy, gained comptete victory over the
D«rvii£es at AgDtdat, iitt December 1893.
ftlarch 1806 dD autumn 1896.
Autumn 1896 till preaeot date.
General Baldiasera
Signof de Martino
From 1887 till 1S96 the constant change of Governor Generals in tlie
Italian colony prei-ented any peaceful de^-etopment ; they all being
militarv men tltought mote abw;t annexing new conntiy than making
what they bad obuincd through King Mi:nclck a success. It seen*
that lbs policy of annexation lavouicd by General Baratieri was tbe
mat tnuDbling-block, and his treaimeni of the Abminiani was, to say
at letM, injuoicious, especially when he allowed his native uoops 10
plunder Adoim from 39th 10311! December 1894, as from that date tbe
whole of tbe Abystinians in tbe north lost confidence ia Italy, and it
hat been np-bitl work for tbe civilian (iorenKX' General Signor d*
Martino to retjain it Everyone »peaks mo&t highly of the praseM
oaicial, and be is making tbe colony a saccCH, and nader hts rale ibcra
can be no doubt that, if the policy now pursued b continued, Italy
will gain the confidence and respect of tbe Abysslnians, and by matdas
DM of Ibetr once brave and mobile foe will make rartber territorui
advaaccnxat when the time comes. The fault of the military leaden
bas been ignorio}; their enemies' capabihlies, and trying to ai.complok
too much with too small a force, and ignoring a tnoic mobile foe that
can always concentrate an overwhelming force at anv point in the OM>i
and acting on the offensive against them instead 01 tbe defensive, aM
also by employing obsolete artillery against modem qakk firing guas.
1
APPENDIX X
List op some or tue Cheater UArrtAS rouoitr im
KCCKNl' Tiuss
Mugdtls Kieg Theodore
Oandet Abyulnn
Ona do.
Kulil dot
Dofsl do.
Oondar Kli^TchliiWinanMi
Woami Afa)Mlnat
Odbbai da
Ceatii Kas Maneasba
Saute do
AnhaAUip AbjfHMUna
UaMlle do.
Adova do.
vtfjmi Engtiib EagUib Vtttocy Anhl ity
Emtfauw Abrsuona Vieioiy KhvuIw tin
tUUsns
Dervlihcs
do.
do.
do.
d&
do.
do.
do. MarGbi)7«.
da SriHBBtwiMi
do. lawaMy iMj
Dervish Vtotery AaUnii iMf
AbjrMinlaaVnoty Aiintt iIHl
do. MarrJiiMt.
liaUon VictOfy JsaiMy tl^
dou du. ilH
AliyuinuaVkswy nMwtjw dM
doi Uanb ii
Since the battla of Adowa the country has been at peace.
Battle of Ma{|dala against King Tlwodoiv alanc and dm CBataM tbt
whole of Abrssima.
Daitle of Condar was only the Co<Uam iroofM agnina ths
m
APPENDICES
497
C&lUbat— King Johannes was killed, and t)i« Dervishes aerer after'
wards atucked King Mmcick, owii^ perhaps to some undcrsUodi&g
between ibc iwo.
Coaiit find .Seiufe— Ru Mangexha had only his Tigt^n troo^
Ainha Atagi, MacaUe and Adon weie against united AbystinU after
King Menelek bad received plenty of supplies of arms and ammunition
from the French port o( Ujibuti.
There liave been pleoiy of a^or engagement^ but tbe aboi-e buttles
altW to turning points in Abvuioian bluory. After Magda la the cuud try
became united under King Johannes, who defeated the Egypiiant. To
aid the English he attacked the Oetvishes, and then u-c abandoned him
to fight iigninxi the lubans, Menelek and the Oervishes. Battle of
Dogali cemented ibc fncndxbip of Italy and Menelek. mitt« of Oalbbal
— death of King Johnnnct, and Menelek made himielf master, liaiile
of Coalit — Rat Maoj-'eshu, puibed l>y King Menelek to attack the
Italians when be found he could get nothing further from Ihem, led to
tbe Italian invasion of Tigr^, and ihen Mendek brin^'ing an enormoui
«imy to ditv* tbem back over the frontier, be had arranged with iheoi
for meir hdp lor Aiding him to be King of AbyMinia.
Baltte of Adowa— <l«fcai of (be IiAliUM and making King MeneUc
tbe strongest native potentate in Africa, leading! lo French intrigues aad
trying to make him aid them in their attempt to make a French «»e
across Africa, ftoni tbe French Congo to their port of Djibuti.
3 I
\\\
^^^^^^B INDEX ^^^^^^^^1
^f^^^^ik
AbfBini*— <tf"/t>MMi/. ^^^^^^H
Kutilierv iiti, i}6, 175. I9S- ^^^^^H
^Urd Vaik (anhnal), 4S5.
Scltlcmcnt of 9, 4I7. ^^^^|
Auti Wcif (uninol). A&i.
Soldicn, 165-6, 316, >63. ^^^1
Ab«to, fhcnniuge), 393-3.
Spi<s, 100. ^^^1
Abu Addi (UiwnJ, 78-9, 81, 167-93.
Stiie of, 7. ^^^H
CavM, 178.
Supcnlllloii, 134. ^^^1
Muket. 4M-
T*ctic*, 103, 30), 330-3. ^^H
Aboona. js, 157-
TieaiiCB, 471 '93. ^^H
Abo Ad)^, 40.
Wur »ilh. 46. ^^M
Abjntinui—
Womca, 344, 354, 301. ^^H
AfrlculiUTC, )56.8i.
Wounded, 337. ^^^H
Aoiutcincnu, ajb-
.\d>hu ((hwr), 393. ^^H
Adon AuihoritlM. 67.9, 4^ ^^^H
Ad«s«-Abata (IOwdX 4IS> 4i6-3t, 494- ^^^|
^H Ann>. >03.
^B AniUery. Jj. J07.
^■^ Boundann, 63.
Ad) -Aboona (rQltge), 33. 138-9. ^^^H
BdUbsit, 336-5$.
Borlal, 161-3.
Adi.Cut(di*uki),95,97-8. 104. lU-S- ^^M
Adl.Gtiu (village), 133. ^^^M
Cbaracur, iSi.
Adictat <towfi), 103, 110^ 494. ^^H
OiOifacn, 149, 351-3.
Adi-Ki-Kolfc {viltiee). 319. ^^H
H ChiUiUniiy, IS9-
^H Chuch, ijf-w, 189.
Adi-Qtulm (Iowa), 33, 133-3. 494. ^^H
Aditchlu (lOftKM , 31, 137. ^^^H
Adi-Usri (foTtreat , 54, 137, 313. ^^^H
' Clothing, 339, 346^ 350.
Farmcra, ±43-$.
Adowa (lown), 3J, 167-95. ^^^|
Kuik of, I96->15> >8S, 496. ^^H
F«nM, 341.
rwUofRcManih. 91-
Qmnhw. 168, I70-3. ^^^H
FoKCi, 3f8, i99-2oa
MmIwI, 494- ^^H
Oftdtbor, 170-5. ^^^H
^a Franiiet old, 47.
^H n««, 50L
Tndeof, 167. ^^^H
^H FnNn, 9, 334.
Adalb Iraina), Zaibh, 15-17. ^^H
^M F(a«U. iSa-J.
Agune (couotrr), 30a ^^^H
^B IUf-brc«ds, 134, 1S4. y>t.
ropnlatioD or, 103. ^^^1
Rebeltba of, 1S6. ^^H
HiMocr, 14. 75-
InluMUnu, 336-55.
Ainscbk (tiTct), 76.7. ^^^H
aw, 1B7, 395-7.
AlamaTou FtlMc (bl«), 163. ^^^|
■wt, 15-16, 161.
AlbrrtoiM U«BBnlt 395-S, 118.9, 4>o- ^^^|
n<K«. P9-IO.
Alcka Egcow (diMrict). 369. ^^H
.OMCir, 113-3.
Alouta Ru. 34, 38^ 31, 35-6, 57. 13}, ^^H
Ijooiioit ic^.
145. U7. 1S6. ^^m
Ad<1 baralierl, 33a. ^^^H
MmidttM, 186-7.
HallUlloa l.y, 49, 313-4, 358,
Doih or, 148. ^^H
^ an-
flutiw 354. ^^^H
^M Ncricct of. ]j.
^H Omciab, 6, 495-
^H Orifin 0^ 16, 161.
And Itilf, 48, 148, 197. ^^^H
Meeting wiUi, 147- ^^^H
Amba Alafi, bank c«. 53, 319, 49^. ^^H
^H ProcntpoMtion, 1, 7, 11.13,6a.
Amba (moowalti pmooil, 14, 177, ^^^H
^H PrMCfii rnlen. 7, 4*i'
^H PieeiuMiiod Wu, oSe
^3. 3>o- ^^M
Aubata (eownlrr), 49-S^ 3>S> 3S4- ^^H
^H Ril^iM^ i6i.
Ancobai (lovii}i 40J. ^^^H
1-
^^^1
500
MODERN ABYSSINIA
Aaan(bmd),iS4-
Axmalt, Jwntitic, a^p, aj/Ui.
Aiitalo {tomn), ua, jij.
Ai>b Terika (pua), iS, ISI.
AnU FUha, a9-30L
Ai^a Has, 4S-3.
Ar^ SdMde Kaa, 99, JL
AiU (utdope^ ■** Gaidh, 488.
ArioMiDdi GcDcnl, 196-7, 496
Death of, aio,
ArkMM nM, 37^ 383.
Ann, tnScfat, 65-7, JD-t.
Ante battle 0^ ig&.
An&i (town), 399^401.
AiTDd (tribe), S/, 419.
Aitanata (dittilct), 34U.
Ai£iigi (<UiM^ 5S, 79.
Anaaia (town), iL 11^ us-s, 491.
Amam to Adtqaak, i»-34-
AMatdi(titkk495-
Awn (dUikth 3M-
Ante, FltBari, 337-^ 34a.
Ann (town), 135-16&
Drnaitj, iST
Tohannea aad, 15&
liaiket,4M-
Umeltt and, at, ag, ts&
Roads to, 151-a.
View of, 146.
Aiebu G«ll», ^3-56.
Craeltr of738i>
B
Bakbr Fasha v., late, 31.
Baldiisera, Gcnenl, 50, 97-8, 102, 109,
116, 173-
Fort. 97, 113.
Baratieri, General, 197.
And Adowa, 174,
BatUe Adowa, 196-II5.
Trial of, 1 31-3.
Barley, 359, J77, 353, 4<M.
Barranbarrai jtTtte), 31, 495.
Banicic Pasi, 413.
Basha (litle), 49$.
Baihillo (riTer), 56.
Sourcet irf, 378.
Bab, 486.
Battles, List of, 494-7-
Bees, 379, 381, 343, 377.
Begerand (title), 495.
B^hemeder (coantrjr), 80.
Bewa (antelope), 451, 487.
BelaU (title), 495.
BdtiaGal»Mi,3fc
Belki7a.
Bnl, Mr T., Iit% ly. I4»A tSfc (^
BnttUn^ir.
4 ly.
Bb &boU (wdb). 4? ^"^
Bhd»,4go>3.
IMmiT Hwriff). JflB w
Bern Mnamab!ibi,M, 3/9**.
Botm, m now«r% «t.
BowAiia, Ca, 475-Bi.
Bnodo, l83,4>3>
B«dh^385.
AiBilo, 449, 4a».
BaUdfav, ai6-S5-
Bnorona BMibt, 494.
Bniea (wtQi), 61.
BoRMbr, CoL, kle, ja, aij.
Ba«aid^49a
CAMDLS-iUKiim, 37a
CanTona, 81, 86, 3J3. 3S4. sS&t. 31^.
Catanti (aniinal), 484*
Cat, domeatic, 3784.
Wild, 485.
Cattle, 167-71.
Carea, 178, 189, 394.
Cereali, 343, 377.
Ceylon, 3, 361.
ReiemUanoe to, 83.
Cheetah (animal), 484.
Chekoso (valley), 368.
Chela Lake, 410-13.
Cbelicut (town), 199, 317.
Chelunko (diitrict], I7S-6. 287.
Chenobar (pan), Io7'iOi.
Chlcka (title), 49$'
Chicken*, 178, 369.
Chilale (water-hole}, 94, 97.
Cboum (title), 495.
Churcbci, 168, 170-a.
Ciccodicolla, Captain, 494.
Civet (anitual), 379, 484.
Scent, 147.
□anei, npper, 6.
Clerical party, 4, «* Frieata.
Coal, 91.
Coatit, battle of, $1, 496-7.
Coffee, 366.
Colotb Amba, 393.5.
^^^^^^^B INDEX 501 ^H
^H CoMca Ambt, 406.
^^1
^H Cre^, Cencnl, V.C., 69.
^^ Criipi. Signor, JiJ.
^^^^H
Pamaxa (dlMriei), 71. ^^^1
f Ctocodilc. 176, 19s, 39J. 397. 490.
Fiddiw, 105-6, 375. ^^^1
^^ CiowTc* Bsi (diiwwlj, 391.
FaMaUe (diHrict). ^^^H
^B Cunal Fotcil, 439.
Fanu Mki (t-aller), I7S- 19$- ^^^H
Falhoda (dutricl), 64, 71, 73. 4x5. ^^H
Feiunu, 79< 3^*4- ^^H
^P
Fennce U>>i"i>l)> 485. ^^^1
FcTcr, i^i. iHi, 1S4. t9i-3, 348. ^^H
DAamKiD*. Gcn«*l, 196, S04, 108.
Fiuab«cri (mirkct), 494. ^^^|
Dtaih or. 119.
Fitiu (hoi >[>[ing), 416. ^^^H
DMiakll ooonity, 54, S9. ?*. S7. 354-
Futi, 95, 13S. ^^H
Pcopl*. 3S9.
Fliii«ri (title), 495- ^^^M
Duigclu (tii-M), 351.
Film, 107, 1 13. I7«, 448, 464. ^^H
Dnrgu, Rai, 410.
^m Dttibub, Filoirl, 30^ 47.
^B Dccc*H«b*ria(ilislricl). tis-l7.
Flowtn, 138-9. 193. 3PS- M'< MS> ^^H
M7> 355^- ^^H
F<n, 4S4- ^^1
^K DedjiIdiaMtch (title), 495.
Fmce, 9, 13-13. >2- ^^^H
Dm™ (diiuiet). 3J4J-
And HentUk, 64. ^^^H
DcTa^u (naldopc), 313. 4S8.
FnncaliQ Ibinl), 347, 49a ^^^H
De KUrlino, Captain, 114, 383, 4J3.
Fronona (niiM}, 1«^ Ml. ^^^H
Dc M»(lin(., Sic not, 496.
Frsich ConctaloBt, 73-3, 419. ^^^H
Dcrviihn, 7, 9, W-i 40, 73-4. 4»l-
Officcn, 74-5, 156, 314- ^^H
Dervo (dinricl). 39S-
Prisau, 141-3- ^^^M
Dik-DUc (uUloM), 4S9.
DUdI (duitict), 83. 338-41. 494.
SencB^CK, 75. ^^^H
SubjecU, ^ ^^^H
Dlincl (Cartioii), J79.
Frontten, 6z. ^^^H
lUhKi [nlunl), tt.
Froli, 190, 364, 357, 3S6. ^^H
Djibuli (p-rl}, 11, 34.65-7. *3J.
Docoli, B»ul« of, 49, 496.
^^^^H
^^^^1
Dowolo <dittrict), 103. 106-8, ill.
Dnclii, 178, 380, 49>-
^^M
I>uilitt (utBlofwy, 177, JJJ, 4S9.
CaI>UU.A (lUitrict). 4IO' ^^^1
GtUabat (Metanach), 15. ^^^H
Baltic of, 40-3, 496. ^^^H
m
r
Utility of, 39. ^^^1
GaUai. S, 375-401. ^^^H
[
llouMi ol^ 338. ^^^^H
^^ Ei>DA Asia Gariha Hlbfc), 306.
Ganw, It6, 137, 177, 194, 194-5, 3*3. ^^H
^H Edtui, 17.
347. 380, 399, 435-56. ^^H
^H Eftwi (nihffe), 101, lil-ij, 151.
Gangol. Waic Choum. 57. 3*3. 3>8- ^^^B
Eerpd*M. St 7. "J
^^H
AMicnt, 146, 152.
GaiEom Pau, 138. ^^^H
OAcUb, tOk 31.
Gkiclla SonmennEi, 488. ^^^H
BMmi, 33* 367, ♦44-S, 4S9-
ED{knd UM AbjrniBu, 6a, JXJ.
Goalie 488. ^^H
GeMu (maakc7). 393^4. 40S-9. 4S6w ^^H
InpfeuMP of, 4, S.
Gene, Gencnl, 495. ^^^H
Rmi. 101, 110, 3S"-
EntUeio IdUirici), 198, ao4-s. taS.
Geopaphical Notes, 76-93. ^^^H
GcnuMtch (ttilc), 495- ^^^H
ErcDie Captain, 116-7.
GabM (aoiiMJ), 486- ^^H
H Erin (pUnl). 341. 343- Hi-
Gtfcaluik (aniinal), 4S8L ^^^H
^H Eiithrea rioDlier, «o, ?&
^" Pnwptcu, (*8-
Gcri Heidft (village), ^1-3. ^^M
GcAoUt Sane* (diunci), 356. j6o. ^^H
Brouon ol SoU. 81.
Gcrara (planl), ]45-6. ^^^H
ErrUi (raiiu), 18.
HmxM, 315. 3*6-7. 3S0-I.
SoUkti of, 336, 373, 374,
GheUii (palace), 41S, 417. ^^H
GlinaUa InuMitdaa), 79, 80, Sa. 177. ^^^M
•91 -a. ^^^H
Rydk (ititiricl), 351-3-
Oumla (dbUMt), 47. ^^^1
502
MODERN ABYSSINIA
Gtiifn (VxRi), jj.
Gbivm (rinr), 78-9. 391 i.
CIMem {town}, &S, 431, 491.
Ginfec,
.490.
GkiefaR), CouBi, 433.
Gdm* (diiirici), 410.
Goat, 771.
Cobdia Dagu Pmi, 403.
Gold. 9t.
CaSmtUettt), 371.
GolwiWi«iirt),37S-<.494.
Ceodw (hnrn), 7S, 4961
G«mki]fi, GenctaJ, 49$.
Goodefetaile (diainci), sj, tjS-jo.
Gofdoa, GcBonl (late), 5, 10, 11, 30,
341.
CrahiDi, Gencnl Sii G. (late), 33.
Ciiaa IdUtiki), 377, 494.
Greek QiBich, 141,
Conaal, 160.
CtMka, 1 36. i«a
Gueiton (moakcf), 4S7.
Guercta (monkey^ 347, 486.
Com Gniw (disinct), io», iti-ia.
Gmdct, Battle a/, 13$. 496.
Gofs, Bulk of, sG-7, II7-49&
G«ilin Woika (dutikt). 13&
II
HaOM (road), 93-96L
Hadcl Mi (tcmat), l>6. 171. 1&4. 3S8.
407.
And bew, 371.
H««^ Ru,}l, 174. "79. !»'. <97-
tUlli (lalw), 85. 377«.
HallM, Rai, j>i.
HaUm (ocMi offionX 316. 31*. 3»3i
3J3. J69. 3». 4u,4t8.
Ilanwaeo (omiMtt), 33, iiS, 115, 130.
tUiar ((own), 87-9, »6j, 419-31.
Hare (anLmal), >78, 485.
HaimU (IsMi 43a.
HailMkci<townX93,9S.
HanlMttaii. CafiialD. 6I, 73. 4'S>
434-
HacTcti, ajy^OL
llxucn* (vlUice), I4t.
Hawuh (riTtr), 58, W-?, 4K.
llvdg<lKf (isiaaalji, 48J.
It«wcll. Adtnirat Sir W. (I*t*l> ]■•
lUM«rl«ad, Sc.
So»ali.(r
Hippopotawa. m8, 4S»
Hulory. AbjMlnUB, 14-75.
Iloo, JS7.
Bdy Crow U*y, 36, 333, 3SS, 303-4.'
llowM, »7is. »90. 349-
Il« Sprinp. 83. 37^. 4»6-
IITcim (anmialK s7»*3. "94. 3*4. 414.
4B4.
tt|iax (animal), 485.
I
tux (uUlMl). 4S9.
Ioe,344.
IdiBMOMii (afUMal), 4S4.
Ug MoMleur, 75, 96,
linbcria {plwe]w 4M.
Inuna. D«d)alcfa, 384-6.
Indet Mariam Dabaa (duukx), 19^
IntelligciKe DepansMttl, 3s.
Irrigation. 361,317.
lamael, Ktwdl*c, 37.
Italy, Iialiaa, 7, 13, tS.
Adowft, Battk of, I94'»5.
AdT»nc«. 49, 51.
A^ricDltiuoi lellieiDcnt, 131,
Ddcal br Mcnctck, jj.
E)Eplot«n, <«.
Famtae, and, 1 05 -6.
Forctt, 97. 99-10I. 1I9.X1, ttb.
Laad QBotion, 139-31.
Maaiaenof, 114-
MuilalioB oC, 49> ><}-
Native Troop), 97. 99t(». loj.
Ofteeci, 108, 114. II7.389^4I>>
OtBdali. 9^ 143.
ranmount i'owcr, w.
Folic*, 137-8.
Primncn, ito. 119, ■91, ji)^.
3Ss. 389, 4U. 404. 406, 4»
R»i QoM, 4J>. 413-
RcprcmiatWta. 495.4!^
Rcttealof. 54.
Tnaapott, 96.
Valonr of. no, siq.
War lodemnUr, 73, tta.
Wounded, lU.
llthMfce, 15S, 16&
J
fACXAi. (aiifaiwl). 48}.
Icddah (town), %.
(etWtIa (aninkall, «>&,
jeruMlcm, Pilcilmaci to. S> ■!•
Paisapto, t4S-
laMlla. 140, 163.
Jo«, lJ-16.
Jlajig* (loon), 83,87,89.
.k
^^^^^^^B INDEX ^^V 508 ^M
^H Johunwt. Klii(, 19, 36, J).
^^1
^H ChancUr ot, 44-5.
^^^H
^H Dwh oj, 41.
Macuu, ss, *M. 199-3IS' ^^|
^^H KIuUIi umI, 40, ai4, 4I6.
ItalUt of. S3-4- ^^H
^^M M«fi«lek uid, ij).
IU>c« oT. 399-3DI. ^^M
^^1 redigiec of, xo.
^^^ Woundod, 4 1 .
HudAU. 4, 19. ^^^1
MiAoincd, tS, 357. ^^^1
Family, Axiui, 151. ^^^m
Mafaomedaiu, 3, 9, iS, 407. ^^H
^^^^
Mahomed Gnyn, 110, 159, 354. ^^^|
UakUiin. 11, 7t. ^^H
^H Kjtaui (King JohanDc*), 19, 33.
^M KUMla (lown^ 35, 47.
^B Kcl A)<T (ilmrtcii, 391.
^H KsiMnHtch (tl(I«), 495.
Mai (mtn) Anibcm, 313. ^^^M
Mai Chco. , 94, 9J. ^^M
Maj KcncUl, r94- ^^H
Mai Knmot, 117. ^^^|
^H Korai or Saahdl (lawn), 33-4. jr
Mai Luma, 337. ^^^|
^V Kbrilfc. 9. 40. 4J. 70'
^m Kbit fpUnlJ, tj. ^9.
^B Klijjftprintrr {utttlapt), 77, 177. 347.
Mai Mclaha*. 117. ^^^|
Mii Muna, tofi. ^^^|
Mai S*fou, tiO. ^^^1
t4atuk4Jttr Cttardian, 196, 419, 434. ^^^|
^^ King UeDdek. ttt Menctek.
Mancnha, Kas, 13, 40,51, ■77-«0. iVl. ^^H
KlogSohmaa, ittSokMon.
Chinictei, 107, 315. ^^^|
l>avi{;hl«f of, 185. ^^^|
^—^ KbK TchUhtinunoDt, nr Tehlftitai-
^H manouL
liuccvicwi with, joi. 303, 307, ^^H
^H KitQiani C«n«nJ, ai6-7.
3ii-i>. ^^H
Mwrioge of. 57, 174. ^^^1
^H Kn (dimkl), 3}9'40>
Siitct M, 36i-3. ^^^1
^H Kohdu (niJ(u\ 18, I36l
HarehaTid, (^puin, 64, ^^^H
^H K«l«Uc (forcu), 439-
Maieb (rlvcc), 33, 77. ^^H
H KouMO (itcc). M5, 3S3.
Marlcol*, 494. ^^^|
^H KniE«r. 17 >-
Hafkham, Si> C, C9. ^^H
^^H Kru^nim, 1 1.
Mashotu, Lcds, 43. ^^^|
H Kadoo (Mletopc), 135, 177, 994, 313,
Mauowah (tovm), 5, 31,24, }■• 93- ^^H
1 Kofrla, BunmbarrM, 47.
Oceapatlon cA. 47. ^^^|
Road riom, 94. ^^^1
Matahata Lake, 87. ^^H
Knit, Builc el, 36-», 496.
^^ Kaluhttnui (di«iikt), $1$-^.
M«U Valley, 371. ^H
^m KoMi (diMict), 407-
Bivw. 375- ^H
^H KnvcM (dtHrict), SJi-a.
HcmMi 1., tun M Quetn Shefaa, 16. ^^H
■45- 353- ^H
M«nrl«k II., KiDg. aad Adowa, 174, ^^H
■
^M
100. 4>8. ^^B
■
Advance notih, 51. ^^^H
^H LaOAKDK, HoMimr. 64, 43^
Auin, 31. 39, IS& ^^H
^1 LaMi PUn, 33, 136.
^H Lunbcnt C«»enl, 196.
ClMractci, ^^^1
And Franci, 417. ^^^^
Fim known, S9l ^^^|
^V LMU(«MD(r7}. So, 341-54.
Inlneuct of, 39, 49. ^^^1
■ Lnem Pam, 341'
LflpM) (dUinci), 1S7-191.
Italian Indanaily, 73, no. ^^^|
llaly QuamU. J7-B> ^^1
Miuiuaaties, 5»9, ^^^H
^ Uonitldr, Col., 74-S-
iJM. i»3. 433. 4S'-3. 4«4.
1 LabtU fpluit), 34S-
^K LoboFubcr, isa.
R«Mlion of. 7- ^^H
Trealio, 471-3. 47S-83. ^^H
M«BcIektiin, it. ^^^1
Herchaais, 4-4> ^^^|
McMOBcB, ^»^ 53, 55. 73.4. ^^1
^H loamU, 391-4.
Merot (dBtria), 17. I7>- ^^H
^B Uiptoa Bcj, n, ;t.
Mtna (town), 361-7. ^^^1
504
MODERN ABYSSINIA
Hertclim, Ledg, 43, 44, 169,396-8,311.
Hoiue of7 aay.
Mcteinroeh, tie C^dlibaL
Hiebul, Rai, 40-1, 300, 309, 373, 383.
HUmoiuuiet, 16, 58-9, 163.
... ?°""™y' 59-
MUDaiu, 437.
» Hofii Woha {ii*ei), 86-7, 403.
Molureet {dlmict), 361.
HoDarchT, 34, 401.
Moacrieff, Cooml (Ute), 31.
Moakeyi, 104, 3*0, 347, 393, 408-10.
486-7.
Honolulu, ISO, 155.
Uoiquitoi, 90.
Muiaaani, CapUio, 133, 180, 191-3,
Mnlei, 375, 391-
luliaa, 389.
Sickneti, 344, 349, 389-9a
HumiDger, Hi W. (Ule), 11-3, 35.
HuKollo (moQDtaiii), 334-5, 339.
Uwuphk Hadal, 36.
Hrnh (tree), tS3.
N
Nbgadis (title), 495.
Negndu (titled 495.
NegToei, 15.
N^uu Negnst (title), 495.
Negut (tide), 495-
Nerat (district), 393-4.
Nile (river), a.
Nineveh, Layaid's Book, 154-5.
Nolu (tribesmen), 43a
OCULU-CUSSBI (district), 13, 30.
Officials, Abysdnian, 6, 495.
Oribi (antelope), 177, 313, 489.
Orleans, Prince Heniy, 74, 75.
Oryx (mtelope), 487-li.
OtDum Digtu, !□, 36-8, 331.
Oatfil and RiRei, 457-70.
PlASANTS, 3, 360-1, 363, 373.
Hosjulalitj, 333-3.
Houses, 3J3.
Pig, domestic, 378.
Wild, 137-
Pigeon, 491.
Nett*, official, 46.
Ploughs, 356, 358.
PorcDpiae, 485.
Portuguese, 19.
Priests, II, 139-41. "43-4. "S". >6l.
164. 3'5-
Ptolemy, 155.
QusBN Taitoo, It Taiton.
Queen of Sheba, im Sheba.
Queen Gudert of Anihara, Ija
R
Rahiita (harfaoar), 48.
Rain, 175, 483.
Kaio (mountain), 197, 307-8, aSs.
Raiat (harbour), 48.
Ras Aloola, lie Aloula.
Rat Hagos, itt Hagos.
Ras Maikgesha, stt Uaogciha.
Ras HerconeD, it* HerDooen.
Kat Michael, lu HichaeL
Ras Waldenkel, ttt WaldenkcL
Ras Woly, m Woly.
Rat (animal), 486.
Ralel (animal), a8o, 485.
Rhatib Pasha, 38.
Rhinoceros (animal), 488.
Rifles and Outfit, 457, 470.
Roan Antelope, 488.
Rocks, 81, 172, 293, 330, 394-S-
Rodd, Sir R., 61, 435, 475, 483.
Roman Catholics, 58, 61, 138, 141-1.
164.
Routes, andent, 17, 18.
Ruins, 311, 407.
Adulis, 17.
Axum, 145.
Berenice, 17.
Yeha, 19.
Russia, 13, 13.
Intrigue, 50.
Red Cross, 388, 417.
Ruvarea (district), 335.
Sabandas (distiict), 176-7, 194.
Sabceans (nux), Ijl, 154.
Sahaati (station), 48^ 96.
.Sahafd Tiuz (title), 495.
Salella {district), ^i-ia.
Saletta, General, 495.
Samra (river), 78, 319.
INDEX
505
!(lowii),3m- 3. 337,494.
, (nutltd), 49«.
himpcr, Profator, 133.
himptf, Mr Wm., 133.4, r44. 14*
154. 19:. 184.398,406.
Semico, 7S*i, 89, ijj, 154, 1889.
Bmalt, tS, 8i, tot.
'■ BatUe of, ji.
?*rr»nl (inimil), 484.
Sli«ii|fiJU (ncsroct), ij.
jheba, Queca of, 14, >6, 145-
Exttat of, 14, 16,
ShMp. 169-71.
Bliipii fplmt), 33J, 398.
I jcouotrjr), 3, 401-15.
ou«.43SS6. ^
iw (uiIbulI*), 4S6.
SUdt. Col., 93. 97. 109-
3l»Tel»de. a. j, 11, 66, 69-70> 47>-
! TT«i)r. 474.
Smith. Sir C. Ilollcd, 17.
Botwl (itier), 64, 73.
"Soeota (ici«>), 7ft 3"^4i. 3*7*. «9*-
uIomOD, King, I4.
umUnd. S. 63-^
SoiDBlis, 63.
SamaJi Mnrftoli, 314.
Frontier, 481.
i(MiwliT)MUj«rt,9-ii, 70-7i.
fulrtBl (uiaul), 4S9.
Btcinbok (animal), 489.
d, CoL, 100, 107-8.
J "37. 17*. i9«. rfj. »»i. J46.
lil«i(io«n), 1,31,48.
ACAiM (tiTM), 77.8, 80, 31S, 351,
Sourtet of, 3S»-3.
Vkw of, JS3-4-
item, QuMn. 54. JOO. 377. 381, 407.
RtbcIlMQ oC 47I-
TaiuiitiUc (dlriria), 413-15.
3M, 3»9. 4» ,
imBMHit, King of, 40, Mo-i.
S«i«,«3-
'«di (Imlroiiwl). iBt, 377.
'd-d-KcUr (i(f«D>, 16.
rcmbien (cnuiiry), so, 197,
Stt Abbi-AiMi.
TetaciiKia (diMiicl), 3».
r*ntcha (diMrict), 343-S.
:cremMi« (Afttict), |>7.
2K
ThecHlOT*, Kinc. 4. 17. 3J. S*-
Thoth (baboon). 4S7.
ThiuuUtstDdiii. 137, 176-8, 194, 283,
»9I. 341. 34<i^
Tiltci. 495.
Tora (ant«!<i|<c^ 487-
TttaXy, 50-1, 47J'8j.
Tmare (rivet). 79, 319, JiJ. 341.
Tnckmijm (ptonMc), 407.
Tnik Buha (dtle), 493.
Tnrker, 66, 69.
V
UCCIALt TkSATV, JO-I.
Vboktasuu, a6s, J»9.
VdM (iliilrici). 381-1.
Vtimin, 331, 369L.
Volcsnic fornuuioD, 81, 88, 334-5.
VultarM, 491.
W
Waao Chouu, 319.
Wug CiMBin Gu>f;ul, im Gaap''-
Waag asd Soonia, 316, 341.
Wai« itttt), jjs-
Walika. IMjatcb, 395-7.
Waiika (market), 494.
Waldenkd Rm, 11, 16, a8, 30, 47,
WatJatdr, MrT., 160, 471 -s.
Watkcit (COUM17). 78.
Wandrnr (fictti, 86-7. 391-7.
Wandalch (diilricl), 19, 3$o.
Wandie (towD), 350.
Warita (iret), 180, 196, 3M. 395.
WaierWto. 189, »9>. 317, 347.
\V«udi (animab), 484.
WeUeb. 3J*.
WnTi<riv«), 79-81, 175, 177.
Wiwsu, Sir K.. 9.
Wil^ali H>d>d (maikc*), 373,
Woba EilcNi (dittrici). 377-
Wollo(«oiitiy). 77. 37S-40I-
Haam, 38].
Wanea, 3S3.
W0I7, Rm, aoo-i, 348. 355-74-
Haute of, j6i.
iBttnWm with, 364-
806
MODERN ABYSSINIA
riMMHfrnBi,3M.
Wi
■"■■■■III BEVm. Jl
WMDBh,M»]lr.
TAun {dttk tMl4k 4S- /
tmdtan, 104, I5V i«o, 110, 38s.
InlwMtiBh. 357. 3S»
Zabu CdMiict), 991-1.
ZriwK (animal), 4M
Zeba (antmal), 069.
Zdbh (port), 196, 43M. 465-
Zobdrta^HoMUVS^tt^
Zorille (aniMl), 4S4-
Znlkb (AdoUt), 15.
. un nau*, mmu, ■ntamaa.
1
I \
1..
*3"
'^•tui/fJJr aecg^^ri^* /'fum'^
i
'-1
A CATALOGUE OF BOOKS
AND ANNOUNCEMENTS OF
METHUEN AND COMPANY
PUBLISHERS : LONDON
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fOSTIV, . . . ,
ILI.D1TSATEII AMD CIPT I001C9.
HUTOiy, M . ,
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TIAVIL, ADVIHTUU AMD TOrOCIIAPKV,
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rHILOaOPKT, ....
TKHOLOCT, ....
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THB rEACOCK USIART.
DHrmilTT BXTflHllOV UKUS,
(ociAL QaBTiam or to-ut
CLAUECAL TSAHUATIOKI,
■DUCATTOHAL nOES,
5
7
M
'5
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IB
39
39
39
to
NOVEMBER 1900
NOVKUBBR 1900
Messrs. Methuen's
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Travel, Adventure and Topography
THE INDIAN BORDERLAND : Being 3 Personal Record
of Twenty Years. By Sir T. H. Holdich, K.C.I.E. Illusuatcd.
Denty Siw. 1 51. ntl.
This book ia a penonHl record of Ibe BaLhor'i caTmection with thofte miliUrr u^
poLilLCtI eipedjljons which, during the lut (wemy yean, have Led to the coa-
h>IJdarion or our prcMPI posiLion in Ihc Nortb-wal frontier of India. It is
a pcrsoaaJ history of trani-rronlin iiimyi and boundary demarcatioiu, coD.
mencipg with Penjdeh and ending iritb the Pamin, Cbitral, and Tirah.
MODERN ABYSSYNrA. By A. B. WVLDE, With a Map and
a Portrait. Demy Siw. 15^. tut.
An tmpotunl and comprehcDiiTC ucoudl oT Abytania by a tmvellcT who koovi
(he coDDtry intirnnlely, and bm bad ttac prLvilcEC of tbe frieodship oT Klof
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J^ffutitd by Commandiv^ Ogufri.
THE HISTORY OF THE BOER WAR. By F. H. E. CuN-
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Plans, and Portraits. Vol. I. Quarta. I^r. Also Id Portnightiy
Parts. li. each.
The Rrsi volupie of rhi« imporunt work u nearly ready. Wben complete, ihii book
will give an cEaboraie and connecEed aqcounf of the miliiary opcmiioni in SouiK
Africa frQin ibe decliiraiion lo Lhe end of iJic preseai war. It muM rem^kin Car n>ax
yean the ^tand^Ed History oTihe War. Meurs. Meihuen have t>cen fonunou
enough lo lecure ibe co-operation or many commanding oiricerain ihe revivor,
gT the various chapters.
The Hislory is linely iJlu^Iraled.
A PRISONER OF WAR. By Colonel A. Schiel. Cro-^'n
8m. 6j.
This remarkable boot contain; the cspcrieinas of a wdl-known foreign officer of
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THX EARLY POEMS OF ALFRBD, LORD TIUWYSOH.
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WRIT IN BARRACKS. ByEocAR Waluce. Cr.ivo. y.bd.
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Vol. II. The XVIIth and
XVIIIth Dynasties. W, M.
F. Pflrie. Third Edition.
Vol, IV, Thb Ecvpt of the
Ptolemies. J. P, Mahaffy,
Vol. V. Roman Egypt. I. G.
Milne.
' A biliary whtten id the Bpirii of icierKific
pTccuion 40 wortbiCy rrprsenlcd by Dr-
retrle and his Kchool cinnot but pro-
tnol« wunj and ■ccurale lEudy, uid
mpply * vacAbl pJAce in thv Engiiib
lilcralurc of EEyptoloor,'^7'riivf,
nind«n Fstrla. RELIGION AND
CONSCIENCE IN ANCIENT
EGYPT. By \V. M. FLiNDEHS
Petkik, D.C. L, , LI..D. Fully Illus-
trated. L'tmen Zvi>. 31. 6d.
' The l«iuin will afford a fun^i of valunUle
infonrulion fur iludcntt of ancient
«hici, '— BtamAfiUf tjUJi 'Jian .
nindsn PetriB. SYRIA AND
EGYPT, FROM THE TELL EL
AMARNA TABLETS. By W. M.
Flinders Pltkie, D.C.L., LL.D,
Crown 81V, u, 6./,
' A marvFllous rtturd. The addilion made
I4> Dur knawltdfc ii uothing tljort of
acnaii n£. ' — Timit.
FUnaera pBtrlB. EGVPTIANTAI.ES.
Eitiicd liy \V. M. Flinders Pf.tblk.
Illmiratrd by Tkestram Ellis, la
Two foiit fftft. Cr. 8rv, y. 61/, fu^A.
^IpTaiuabie a« a picture of life in PmJetline
and Egypt. '- Daiij Nmi.
FUudon Fetrla. EGYPTIAN DECO-
RATIVE ART. By W. M. Flin-
ders Petri E. Withiaolllustralions.
Cr. Bw. 3). bd.
' Id iheie tcctuiei he ditplaye rare ikill in
elucidaiinBtbe developmenl of decon^
live art in vlfypL'^-TVee^f.
C. W. Onun. A HISTORY OF THE
ART OF WAR. Vol, IL : The
Middle Ages, tnini the Fourth to the
Fourteenlii Century. By C. W.
Oman, M.A., Fellow of All Souls',
Oxford. Illuittated. Dtmyivo. 311.
* The whole art of war la ill historic evolu-
tion has never been treated on tuch lu
ample and coinpnbeDuve KtXt, and we
Question if any recent contribuiion la
the exact history of the world baa pos-
sessed more enduring value.' — DiUlf
Ckrviticit.
B, BuUlff Qtfiiia. THE TRAGEDY
OV THE C-tSARS. With nume-
rous iLtustrations from Biut». Gema,
Cameos,ctc. ByS- BabingGould.
Fourth Edition. Hoyal Bve. 15J,
*A moat iplendid uid fuoDMliBg book on »
lubjccE of uikdyinf- iDtciwf- The gnrnt
ftALuit of lh« book ii the lue the huthor
ba* mftdc of the cxiiim^ poruuU of
(be Cusart >ud tbc mdmiimble cziticB]
iubtlcty hr tvatcihibilcdiadrBJiaf witb
Ibu line of irMUch. It U brilliuitlT
wriKeiii ud [ht ilLuttivtuHu w gap-
plitdon t Kcaleof proruKiDtCDificcpcs.'
P. V. M&itlftnd. CANON LAW IN
ENGLAND. By F. W- Maitlahd,
LL,D.j Dowoinp Professor of the
I^-iws of EngJand in the Unirertit^-
of Cambridge- Royai Sitf, 71. td.
'Yrait-MtT Maitlftnd bu put ktudcDti of
kngWth law under a fresh debt- TheH
esuyi Are landn^arkt in (hoiady of lite
hLilory ofCAPon Law.'— rinW-
i6
Messrs. Methuen's Catauxiue
K da & (Ullltllis. INDUSTRY IN
ENGLAND: HISTORICAL OUT-
LINES. Bf H. DE B. GiBHiNS,
Lilt.D., M.A. WLth 5 M«p». Se-
emd EdiHoH. Demy Stu. icu. 6d,
H. B. Sgartcm. A HISTORY OF
BRITISH COLONIAL POLICY.
Bt H. E. Egerton, M.A. DtiHy
9vB. lai. 61L
' It b ■ good book. disttQf^ishtd by mccD-
rut ia deuilt cltar nmneemcnl of fftctt,
ubd » bitwd gmp of principJes.'—
Mamctuittr GnardiaM.
AIlMrt torel THE EASTERN
QUESTION IN THE EIGH-
TEENTH CENTURY. By Albert
SOREL. Translated by F. C. Rkau-
wBtX, M.A. Cr. Siv. 31. 6J.
0. K IMnlllw. A HISTORY OF
THE GREAT NORTHERN RAIL-
WAY, 1845-05. Bjf C. H. GsiN-
LlNO, With lllusttalions. Drmyive.
I(M. W.
' Hr. Grinlinj )iu doDe for a Railwiy vlul
Maciulay did for Eoglish Hurory.' —
Tki Sitfimir.
W. Btany. ANNALS OF ETON
COLLEGE. By W. Sterhv, M.A.
With numerous Illustrations. Dtmy
iva. 7J, 6d.
' A IrefUury of quftinl Atld in(eT«(]n^ read-
ing- Mr- Slcrry ha« by his skill and
vivacity given th«e records ntw life.'—
Aeaitrmy.
aV.FlahW. ANNALS OF SHREWS-
BURY SCHOOL. By G. W.
Fjsher. M.A, With num^Tous lElus-
tralions. Demy Biv. lof. 6d.
^Thu careful, erudUc book/— i?a;7>
CMronieit.
'\ book of which Old Salaplaniarc vuie
to be proud.* — Gfo^-
J. B*rff«»ttllt ANNALS OF WEST-
MINSTER SCHOOL, By J, Sar
CKAUNT. M,A. With numerous
Illustrations. DemySvtr. "js. bd.
A. OlAA. THE COLLEGES OF
OXFORD: Their Hi&tory and tbcir
Tiadilions. Edited hj A^ Cl^RK,
M,A., Fdlow of LmcoJn Colbqpc
Sfv. 1SJ. 6d.
' A work which will be itpMalcd to tfgr
tnmaj y^vi u the ttaadMnl boo^'—
AtAtmrmm-
TH. Taylor. A CONSTITUTIONAL
AND POLITICAL HISTORY OF
ROME. ByT. M-TAYlX>k, M.A,
Fellow of Gonvlik and Caius College,
Cambridge, Crvm 6iv. 71. 6d.
' We fuHr recogniie the v^ue of thii c«n-
fuf ly wTTiien work, and Mdrpite apeciaUy
ihe furrwui and Kbriety of hu judgibcttl
arid iht bQDua intrrc^t with which b«
hu ^Tupired a mbjeci which io mooH
hAnds beCDiDea a men lerici of cold
AbslractiDn«. It ii a wi>t4c ilui wtU be
iiiTDulating to the itudenl of Rooiaa
hHiory. ' — A t/ttM^Kim.
J. -WtOM. A SHORT HISTORY OF
ROME. Bjr J. Wells, M.A.,
Fellow and Tutor or Wadham CotL.
OTford. TAinf Editim. With 3
Maps. Crmm 8iw. 3;. 6d.
Thii book ii intended fijr the Middle ind
Upper Fonru of Public Schordt and fct
Pau Studsnti ai ibe Unlvenidei. Ii
eonlainq CDpioui TaMn, elc-
'An origiiul work writlcn on an orifijna^
plan, and wiEh uncominon fretbneu and
vigour. ' — SfitaAtr,
0. Browning. A SHORT HISTORY
OF MEDIAEVAL ITALY. \.T>.
HS0-1530. By Oscar Hhowninc.
Fellmv and Tutor of King's College.
Cambridge. In Tuv t-'oliimfi. Cr.
Bit. sj. ta<i.
Vol.. r. 1150-1409.— Guelphs and
Ghibel lines.
Vol.. II. 1409-1530.— The .Age of
the Condoliicri.
COnwiT. THE STORV OF IRK ,
LAND. By St.vsdish OGr.adv. I
Author of' Kinnand hi^Coruj^anions. I
Crown Rvo. 21. 6d.
Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue
17
Edited by J. B. Burv, M.A.
ZACHARIAH OF MITYLENE.
Translnted inia English by F. J,
HAMII.TOH, D.D., and E. W.
Brooks. Dtmf Svo. 121. 6J. net.
EVAGRIUS. Ediled by Professor
L^oN Pahmentiir and M, Bidez.
Dimji Bit, lOJ. 6d. nil.
THE HISTORY OF PSELLUS
By C. Sathas. Demj tvt. 151.
net.
Biography
B. U Btevsnlon. THE LETTERS
OF ROBERT LOUIS STEVEN-
SON TO HIS FAMILY AND
FRIENDS. Setecled and Edii«i, ,
with Notes and Introductions, by ,
Sidney Colvih. Third Biilim.
Dtmy Bi'H. a voli.. 351. ittt. |
' Irmiillblc ia Iheii racinm, IheiivirieLy,
ihcir juiiD4iiaa . - . of ejiiruiTdinary
fucinatEon. A delightful inheril*nc«,
the ttiiot record oi a "rithly com-
pounded ipitit" thai the lireraturv of '
our lime hii preserved.' — Timtt*.
'There ue fev books w intercsiiiiEi so
movLng, and so VAlgahle as this collec-
tion ol lellen. One can onlyconlincnd
pcopletorcadandre-reAdihebook. The
volumes art bcaniifuli and Mr- Colvin'^
part of the work couEd not have been
■•etter done, hi^ inlroduclLon ia :i mat-ler-
jiiece ,' — ^feetalfr,
3. 0. Billlali. THE LIFE AND
LETTERS OF SIR JOHN
EVERETT MILLAIS, President of
the Royal Academy. By his Son,
J. G. MIU.AIS. With 319 Illus-
trations, of which 9 are in Photo-
gravure. SfcoTtd Edition, a vols.
Royttt Sffl, 3»r. «rf,
' The iUuMr.Liion^ nuke the bonk dcti^hlful
to handle or to read. The eye lingers
lovinjfly U]ion the beautiful pictures.' —
Standard.
This ch^irtning book ii.i gold mine of good
things. '—/'diV/ Krtvl,
'This splendid work.'— (fin- W.
'Or Inch abwrlnng interebt is It, of inch
completeness in scope and beauty.
Special tribute must be paid to the
ektraordinary completeness of the illvs-
tiallons- ' — Gmfikic.
B. Barlfig Oonld. THE LIFE OF
NAPOLEON BONAPARTE. By
S- Baring Gould. With over 450
Illustrations in the Text and 13
Photogravure Plates. Largt quarts.
Gilt Iff. 361.
*The main featuieof this EoiEeous volume
Is its great wealth of beautifnl pholo-
gravum and fioely-eicculed vood
engravings, constituting a complete
pictorial chronicle of Napoleon I.'t
personalbiatoryrromthedaysofhift carl^
childhood at Ajaccio to the date af his
second internieat.' — Daity Ttttgrmfk.
r. H. O^omb. MEMOIRS OF AD-
MIRAL SIR A. COOPER KEY.
By Admiral P. H. Colohb. With
a Porlrail. DtmjiBvO. t6s.
ManiM FaUBC. THE LIFE AND
WRITINGS OF JOHN DAVEN-
AMT, D.D. (1571-1641), Bishop of
Salisbury. By MORRIS FULLER,
B. D, Dtmy Bva. las. 6d.
J. M. SitK- ST. ANSELM OF
CANTERBURY: A Chapter in
THE HlSTOHH OP RELIGION. By
J- M. RiGC. Demy Svo. ji. 6J.
A3
i8
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p. W. Joyce. THE LIFE OF
SIR FREDERICK GORE OUSE-
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W. 0. OolUnewood. THE LIFE OF
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Sk>. 321. Cheap Edilioit. Cnrum
G. VoUrtetn. JOHN RUSKIN, By
CtlAR^ES Wauistein. M.A With
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A H. P. DtnuMMtar, THE LIFE
OF ERNEST RENAN. By
Madaue Dahmesteter. With
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W. H. Hntton. THE LIFE OF SIR
THOMAS MORE. By W. H.
HuTTON, M.A With Portraits.
Stcond Edition^ Cr. %wf, 5J.
* The book Ujn good clAim Lo hlcb rvak
mnonK OUT hioffntpbiei. It iieiceUcntlri
<veo fovinglj, wrv^tn-'—Se*ttrmstL.
B. itXiBtC Oonld. THE VICAR OF
MORWENSTOW: A Biography.
By S. Barinq Gould. M.A A
new and Revbed Edition. With
Fortrail. Crvan 9vo. 31. 6d.
A GomplvEFiy new edition of the well Tancftm
bisgnphy of R. 5. Hawker.
Travel, Adventure and Topography
8T«nHftdl]L THROUGH ASIA. By
SVEN Hedin, Gold Medallist of the
Royal Geographical Society. Wiih
300 Illnstraiiona from Sketches
and Photographs by the Author,
and Maps, auo/j. RoyaiZvo, aoi.fifi.
'One of the ercaiFM l>aaks af ihf kind
issued during ihe ceiiiury. Il !s im-
possiblr: 10 eive an 3dci]uale idea or ihe
richness oi the contrnis of ihis book,
nororiisaboundmfatiracliDn&oAaslory
of iravtl UEiiurpasscd in ^tDgraphioi]
vid human inlertst. Much or ii is a
revflaiion' Aliogciher the work L^ one
vhich in solidity, no^'vliy, and InEere&t
TtiuhX lake a tint rank amone pubUca^
tionsofiis tliss-'—Ttmit.
T. H. Bkrlna and £. D. Ron. THE
HEART OF ASIA. Ily F, H.
Skhisk and E. D. Ross. With
Maps and many Illustrations by
VtHESTCHAGis. L.irge CrK'jvt Sit?.
lOJ. 6i/. mf.
* T^JUi volume will form a l^indmArk in our
knovledeeof Cenln] Aum. . . . lUumla-
Atiog And CODvinciiig/™ T^f MUC.
B,E.P«WT* NORTHWARD OVER
THEGREATICE. ByR.E, Pbapv,
Gold Medallist of the Royal Geogra-
phical Socieiy, With over 800 Illus-
irations, svo/s. ^.jyjiSvo. 3iu. utt.
^Hjibook wiLt lakr iupLacT avon^ ihepcr-
manoni hieniure of Arctic txpl^raiion. '
— Tirtiei.
E. A FlIta«nLld. THE HIGHEST
ANDES. By E. .A FlTzGEH.M.t).
Witli 3 Mjpj, JT lllustiatioDs, ij of
whicli are in Photogravure, and a
Panorama. Royal %vo, 30s, net.
Alio a Small Edition on Hand-made
Paper, limited to 50 Copies, 41'.',
' Th« record of the lir^t ivzcni of the hi^hehl
moLintain yet conquered hj- mortal m^n.
A volume which will continue ij |>e the
rla»\ic book of travel -jn thi^ rtgiou of
the jVndcs.' — Dniiy CArvrtUU.
Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue
"9
p. W. ChllrtlML THE CAROLINE
ISLANDS. By K W. Chhistiah.
Wiih many llliulnilioni uid Maps.
Demji Sw. tv. dd. ml.
■A real conirilHilUln ID our kdOv1cdg« of
[he peoples And ulandn of Microimui,
ju welt a« Foftciiutinc ju a narmtivt of
IrmvcJi and advcoLurt' — Stoitmatt-
S. & Jobuhin. BRITISH CEN-
TRAL AFRICA. By Sir H. H.
Johnston, K.C.R Wiih nrarly
Two Hundred Illustrations, and Sii
Maps. Stcand Edition. Crman^o.
iBj. Hit,
' A fiiKuutiiiB book, irriRcd wiih eqiu!
ikiEJ ud cRaim — Ih« work «t one* of a
lileruY kjtiit ukI of n man of aclioa
who i> uDgolarly wiae, bnvn, and ea-
pcricnccd. It abounds in adminbtc
I.. Dwjta. THREE YEARS IN
S/WAGE AFRICA. By Lionel
Decle. With loo Ulutiratioris and
5 Maps. Saend BdilieH. DrmjSvf.
toi. 6J. nt/.
' lu brigbl ffti (in a betMr fOHral
iurv«y of Aftica from (he Cap* to the
Equator than an_y linate voluma thai
baa T^l bccD publubcd. -^Timdi.
A. Bnlm* Bmhuul TWENTY
YEARS IN THE NEAR EAST.
By A. HuuiE Braman. DtiHy
tve. With Portrait. loi, id.
HNUl of OrlMlu. FROM TONKIN
TO INDIA. By Pkinck Henri o»
Orlbans. Translated by Hawlbt
Bent, M.A. With loo niiuiraiioni
and a Map. Cr. 4/0, gill lap. 355.
8. L. HlnO*. THE FALL OF THE
CONGO ARABS. By S. L. Hende.
With Plans, etc. DtmyBvo. lat.dd.
A. Bt H. Olbbnu. EXPLORATION
AND HUNTING IN CENTRAL
AFRICA. By Major A. St. H.
Gibbons, witb full-page Illusira-
lioni by C. WHimpER, and Maps.
Dimy ivo. 151.
Pt«wr. ROUND THE WORLD
ON A WHEEL. By John Foster
Frassh. Witb 100 Illuitraiioiu.
Crvan Biw. Cb;
' Aclai&icof cyclinf, graphic and witly.' —
yfiMn Fail.
B. L. Jamnon. A NEW RIDE TO
KHIVA. By R. L. Jefferson.
Iltustialed. Ctxiwn Siv, t).
The aarouDi of an adnniuTDu* ride on a
bici-cic through Ruuia and Lhe deiertt
of Asia (0 Khiva.
' An eiceptSonatiy fatcinaiins book of
travel '~P^I MmII Cmztllt.
J. K. TrotUr. THE NIGER
SOURCES. By Colonel J. K.
Trotter, R.A. With a Map and
Illuilrationi. Crnan Svo. 51.
WDtLaal DftTitt. LIFE AND PRO-
GRESS IN AUSTRALASIA. By
Michael Daviit. M.P. 500 pp.
With 3 Maps. frvicvBiv. 61.
V. J. OUlnwaj'. ADVANCED AUS-
TRALIA. By William J. Gal-
loway, M.P. CrawmSva. 31. M.
* Thia is an Daasatly IhorouEh and inforaia-
tin litllt work. — ilffrKiiif Put.
W. Crook*. THE NORTH.
WESTERN PROVINCES OF
INDIA : Their EruriOLocr and
Adhinistdation. By W. Crooke.
With Maps and lUoitratiotu. Demy
Si«. lOi. 6d.
A. Bobncon. THE BENIN MAS-
SACRE. Bf CAI^AIN BOISRAGOH.
Stamd EdilKH. Cr. tve. 3]. bd.
' If ihc story had been wriiHn foor hDBdrtd
Eirm ago it would be read today ai an
glish classic' — SttttmM*.
B.B.Covp«r. THE HILL OF THE
GRACES: OR, THE Great Stonb
Templss of Tbipoli. By H. S.
CowpER. FS.A. With Maps. Plaoj,
andysIlIustratioDS. ^'niyBii'. itx.W.
20
MESSK& Methuen's Catalogue
T, & Wonfold SOUTH AFRICA
By W, B. WOBSFOLD. M,A. iVi/A
a Afap. Suond Edition. Cr^ 8iw. 6j.
■A mDanmeDCB) work comptaucd iDlo ■
vtry moderU4 compui.'— ^#r/iC
Catherine uidautMrtHacquold. IN
PARIS. By Kathebine and Gihr
sakT Macquoid. liiusirated bv
Thouas R- Macquoid, R.l. WitS
a maps- Crown Zvo. u,
'Aiueml little ^uid«, jmjicioudr lapplwd
with infornution-'— -^/ArfiMifm.
AH.KMUW. THE BOER STATES:
A Hbioiy Bud Descnption of tlw
Traosvaaf and the Orange Free State.
By A H. Keane. M.A With
*A woric ofcleu uduuhI thorooKh
'A computand vcrv tnutvorthv 1001101
of Lha Boers and (bur nrrouidincL'
Naval and Military
G, 8. BobflTtaon. CHITRAL: The
SlQry of a Minor Siege^ Bjr SLr
G- a Robertson, K. C.S.I. Wi:h
nu merousl Ilustrali ons , M ap and Plant.
Second Edition. Demy 8iv. lOJ. ftd.
' |i ii difficult to imaEine iht kind of Mf40D
whocould le&dthj&brilJuinL bookwjtboui
emotion, TJi* tiory reoiaintimmoTtKl —
a [csiimony impetiihable- We ak face
to Face wilh ■ great hook.'— //hit I rattd
London J^fWM^
'A book whkh the El Jnbcihani would bavt
tboughl wonderful' More Lhrillirjz, more
piquBDi, and more human than uiy
■As faacinBlin^ a* Sir Wilier Scott'i best
fiction.'— i>aj7j' Ttlt£rapk,
R. fl. 8. Badea-PowelL THE DOWN-
FALL OF PREMPEH. A Diary of
Life in Ashanti* 1895. By Maj.-Gcn.
Baden. Powell. Witb ai lllusua'
tion; and a Map. Cheater Edition.
Large Crown %-.'o. 6j.
E, B. B. Baden-PoveU. T\\ E MATA-
nELKCAMPAlGN. 1896. ByMaj.-
<ien. Baden-PoWelL- Wiih nearly
100 1 1 lustra I ions. Chraptr Edition.
Largt CrowJi St^, 6r,
J, B, Atktsa. THE RELIEF OF
LADYSMITH. By John BlACK
Atkins. Witb 16 Plans and Ulus-
tratioas. Stcond Edition. Crown
This book coniahi^ a Tull narraiive by an
eyc.witncb of Gf:neral Kuller't allcmpES,
■nd of his fiDal succeu. Tbe atarr ii of
■btorbiag iniere&i, and ii flw oolr cofki-
plele account irbich hai appearetL
^'Tbe nuuitJc af Archibald Forbea aad G.
W. SieevTDs hKA ■uvre^ly Callea upon
Mr. Alkiru, who nnita ■ tiaculariy
gnphic style to ao equa \y lare Tacolij
of vitioD- Id bii pages'ire rcalJM ifae
mean^Tig of m madem cunpai^ with die
greatest sca» of actuality. Hu p«cei
are written vith a loitaiaed chana oS
diction and eue of mannci (hat are no
ten jenurkmble thu the unctfity and
vigour of the ma»a which they tt%
before tii,'— X*'tff/rf.
'Mr. Atkins hn<i a ^eaii» for the painting
of WAT which cnEiiles him already lo be
ranked with Forbea and Stceven^ and
tncouragei uf to hope (hni he may one
d,iy ri^e lo the level of Napier and
¥.\tvg\AVf::—i:ta .\UitGaKtU.
'It if the recoil) told wkh tnii^hi nni
sympathy of a ^eal conflict. It u ai
readable as a novel, and it bears the
imprint of iru[h,'— J/ffrfiv'f Leader.
H. W. NflTtaaon. LADYSMITH : The
Diary of a Siege, By H. W. Nkvjn-
soN. With 16 iLltistraiions and a
Plan. Second Edition. CrirwnBvif. 6i.
Tbif book contains a complelc diary of the
Sic^e of Lady&mith, and it a ma»l viiid
anil picturesque narraEive.
' There It no exafigeraiion here, no straui'
ing after efleci. Rut there 11 the Iruehi
realism, the impres^i^n of thin£i aji ihey
are seen, set fonh in wel]<h«en word^
and well-hiCanccd phraMt» with a mea-
Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue
21
sand veir-rqlnint that murks the (njc
utLsl. Mr. Kvvinson \i 10 be congTAtv-
Inlcd onibc vxccllenl work that he has
done- ■ — Daily Ch roticU-
'Of Ihc many Able and fascinating chroni-
cltrsof ibe ud and splendid sion-, Mr.
Kevinson ii amonE rbe ab[«at and ni«1
fBKiiuiting.'—/'«« jW«// Cbm/W.
B H. Aldenon. WITH THE
MOUNTED INFANTRY AND
THE MASHONALAND FIELD
FORCE. 1696. By Lieut, -Colonel
Alder SON. With numerous Illus-
Iraliona and Plans. Dfnty 8x4.
lai. 6d.
B«7moiiT Vandeleiu. CAMPAIGN-
ING ON THE UPPER NILE
AND NIGER. By Lieut. Sevmour
VanDELEUS. With an Introduction
by Sir G. Goldie, K.C.M.G. With
4 Maps, lUuatralions, and Flans.
Large Crmon Bi«. xos. Sd.
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D. BM1IU7- A SHORT HISTORY
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22
UbSSRS. UrrHUSBTS CATALO60S
General Literature
J Oottld, THE BOOK C^
THE WEST. Br & Bakdco
GoQLD. Widi immerooi ntmrn-
tkMu. 7W tfoimwKi. VoL L Dnoa.
VoL a. ConwBlL Onm^ Bml
'Tbey are very Biir4Ctive liElEff va1uiiie&,
they Lavfr Dumerom very prelTT uid
intcrc^ling |ncLutc&, ihe siory i& frc^li
Eod bncing u Ibe mi <jf Du-iiniKFT, an^J
the Ifrgctii] wflird as iiviligbl over Ulm^
tatit Foot, and ihcy eive us a very good
ule« of ibh cnchAbLibg and bsuiifuJ
districi' ' — GnarJr'a ■■
'A fuirati^c full of plcEun^uc incident,
per&QTi^J inttircjhE, and litetary charm/ —
1. ■»&« SMdd. OU) COUNTRT
IIF& I^S. BAUNoGotru). Witli
3bnr-ieiBi nhistratiodt. Larmt Cr.
iMdiu fbU of bmqr HI* BBd vn-
■•Bt, hU of qoibil Mxid TlgBrgBilT
told, vSI BM b> uceDad bjr uir bgak to
be pab&ih*d ttmu^nu thi rav.
Soaiid, IwutT, ud KoiGili U Iha Don.'
B. Buing Oonld. AN OLD ENGLISH
HOME. Bf S. Babihc GOULD.
With numetous Plans and lUusUa-
tjons. CrowH %vo, 6j.
'Tl» chipleis arc dcIightfuLtjfrab^ vrry
inTarmiiig, and iLghlided by muiya^ood
ttary- A dFlightTul fiTEude compuiion.'
-SI. Jmmti'i GMVtU-
B. Baring Oonld. HISTORIC
ODDITIES AND STRANGE
EVENTS. Br S. Baring Gould.
Fmtrth EiUion. Cnmat Siw. 6i.
B. BHliig Oonld. FREAKS OF
FANATICISM. By S. Basing
GOUU). Third Editien. Cr. ivo. 61.
B. Bulnt; Oonld. A GARLAND OF
COUNTRY SONG: EngUsh Folk
Songs wilb their Tiadi tional Melodies.
CoUecled and arranged b; S. Basing
Gould and H. F. Sheppabd.
Dtmy 4/0. 6r.
SoBp of ite WMt of Ikwlm^ ««fe
ihf Udod^ r>iiVt»ffl to &
Buim OooLD, ILA., and B. F.
Sbupaid, kLA. Ia4nrt>. Ar*
/.,//.,///., jtt MHfc P»rtlV..^
/■ MM lU, J*»«Cl WIWXMl ^L
■ A ifakailhclkaarinBaK; Mb
Md fiMdE >Mej:—S^artw i
<• >Ufe««a«U. TOKKMtlHE
ODPfflES Ain> SnUMOB
EVENTS. Br & BAKora OOOA
PtaHkBMUm. OmmBhl fe
■.■ntacOMM. STHAW^ 8UB.
VIVAU AND SUrattRTnoMK
Br S. BUDU OoDUDi. O. IM
StumdBMltm.- 61.
t. iKte OMdi. TOB mams
OP S5VTtasS FKANCK. %
S. BAMiNa OoDiA »9tb. Omf
Srl 3U.
Oottan natUa. OLD HARROW
DAYS. % J. G. Cotton Mvckix.
Cr. 8i«. Sicimd Edition. 51.
W. B. OladBtoiiB. THE SPEECHES
OF THE RT. HON. W. E. GLAD-
STONE, M.P. Edited bi A. W.
HUTTON, M.A., aod H.I.C(«XN,
M.A. With Portnits. btwtj a«v.
VMt. IX. an4X., X3J. ti. tatk.
3. S. Xur. THE SCIENTIFIC
STUDY OF SCENERY. By J, E.
Marb, F.R.S., Fellow of St. Jgbn'i
College, Cambridge. llliumied.
Crtmrn Svo. 61.
An dcmenui; tnulie on fccsunbolau
—tbe itudroftbteanb'ioQtwaxdfflv^a.
It it for the u» of nudcau of pImkKf
gn^rmphy uid geologr, uid will abo In
highly mtcTcitinfl to the Ecoerftl n«dcr.
' A fucirulinff book, a real (aaj talft.*.—
Pad Mali GvulU.
' Mr. Marr i* dbtincily Co b« congratulated
on the Ecnetal result of his work. H«
ha* pcoducfid a toLbiiw, modoat* ai liaa
Messrs. Muthubn's Catalogue
23
ud mdiU. ii uyH, wHA win ta
KOfUMc idft* w tht (ludiai *l m>
knr *ad i«cnph)'. uoi to iln tdniil.'
wpvn and th* central nadtr/
- Mamtiriltr Ciwr^nlil.
M. H Oxftirt. A HANDBOOK OF
NUR-SIXC). By M. N. OsroRD. of
Guy'i lloipiut. Cfmm So*, jr. &i.
Tbli h • conpkie gaUt IS ik* ulnn uid
art of nnnini^ eonidifas rapoot W-
Unxllcd hotU (vMlal udpvllclllH.
* Tbt BOM uxfel Nk el Ibc Uad ttal m
kan ■«•. A mm ivhaiU* and •oo-
Iki) munL'— .WaMtoAr CMrdba.
K V. lankar. as-arcmism. Dt
K. V. ZcVKCR. /;r»/ SsA u 6d:
' Hcrr Zcakci bu ■Mct*Mtod id itfooiicaf m
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A. 8U™ WhU*. T I ! E EX PANSION
OF EGYCI-! A PoUlloil nnd llt»-
toricalSum]', I^A.Silva White.
With four Spedol 5fa^. DtmySrir,
■TU> ia ontihMialh tlit b*M McmM «f
Kfnt u )i ii BHlB EalKiheeBed thu
ku bin poUnbed lu nuy ran-'—
SfKlmfr.
ratar BHklgrt. THOUGHTS ON
lIUNTINa. ByPtitKtiRttCKnMta.
Ediwd bf I. Otho PAorT. oBd
innunud by G. H. ]allak]x
Dran ttt. loi. 6d.
' BkUM'i " Tboariita oa KouiiK * hu
toiaWM * ctM3c*khif«aaKii,Hd
Ik piticai vAha wtn iO ftir 10 a^k* il
a ffeTa"mu irilh bvan ttf Uuiatwa.'^
E. B. WdMU THP, ART AKD
PRACTICE OF HAWKING. By
E. B, Micnn-U WHb 3 PlTOSo-
crararea by G. E. U>MIX. and Wbcr
Illuitmlcai. £>ntt' fc« lot. 6J.
A cmfABla duuitikiri •< iba Havlak
Fnkwi^ Bad R^M aaad la (ocImk aa4
•nlm llMa,^ib dbantaaa §»t tbcb
uaiaini aad Ircala^. Il » nManlir
■ hbtaneal accwnl. toi a cgaahu
■MCilalnUt.
■A bMA ibN nil he^ Md •M^K Ibt
'Jim alt« iW htwH g( all citbuiiiii.'—
• N* bMk k amn Ml iDd aai)N«d>< ihui
Iku builBaa tnallM-*
— Vtrmmf LtmJtr.
B. a BatehlMOB. THE OOLPINO
niXJRlM. By HiWAC* O,
HLTOIUIMXil. Crvtrn tut. 6*.
• Wkbsal tbii boek tU ■oIKi'i llbMV vOI
U lne*a«ltM.'-/wr.Vaff CaxHL
J. WoUl. OXFORD ANn OXFORD
I.IFtl By Mrmbcri of Uic L'm.
•tnHy. Edllnl by I. WtU* M.A.,
PcBowitBCl Tiiioto(W>dlMMCaB«Be.
Tiirt Sditisit. Cr. tvr. y,AJ.
■ W( cgaftstnUu Mr. W*ll* en iba [vo-
doctiaa at a >«HUUa aod laMlUt«i
ac««ni tif Oiferd u ii u ai iha prmni
tin, vriitu by iitmm «1u> ara ysa-
HW*d «f a ^M4 KqMiltVXC vith Ibc
•TiNa aad life *f lb* Daltaidly.'—
C a BobWtMO. voces ACADE-
MltA- Br C. Grant Robestsom.
M.A, FtUo-of All Soolj'. Orfwd.
WilkaFrMtiifim. PtHbett. 31. 6tf.
'Daodidly cWh* and awuritf.'—
BeMmuy CoUs. DANTE'S GAR-
DEN. DyRodBVAMTCow. Wllb
a FroBlllptcGCi SttanJ SJilitm. F<f,
>H\ u. U LratkiT. y. U. ma.
A <kafBiaf tc)h«(iaa «f kaniAi sT (Ik
aeiRnawaliiHd by Omw.— jTwilraiy.
llilvd BuTlKO. READLVG AND
READERS. BytXiiTOitn Hami-
■ A> eimmly ctHlbIt fiuk boek.'— Vaa-
I. WMU^. GREFK OLIGARCH-
IES: THEIR ORGA.NISAT10N
AND CHARACTER. By U
Whiblmt. M.A. rdScw of Pem-
broke Collefr. C«ntiHils«. fma
Bm. &.
I. L Prtea, fx:onomk: science
AND PRACTICE By L, L. P«IC«.
M.A.. FtOov ol Qrle) Collix«. Oa-
I ford. Cmrm •■>». 61.
T^l
LV.
Philotophy
THE PHOjO-
90PHT OF T. H. (KEEN. Bf
W. H, FuKKomx. U.A.
eStira. Cr. t/sr. y.ii.
Theology
CHRISTIAN >nfsn-
CISM. Ti? feniptoo L«Tcr» (o(
189^ BrW. R. IxGE. ILA., FdbTT
ufl Ti::f]r of Hodbrd CoOegc.
Ox&TiL ZWkj S:e. lai. fidL tttt.
A mifir'T RTT^T of (V «^^«i frcm Sl
>;4a and S<- Pnl to Bodsn lirni 1,
Ol^^lsj th* Chmrian Ptagojitt, Aayia- '
BK. the DiTUiJmjl Ht»3, iIm ,
Heiienl Xrski, ud iW Nuurt
' Ii B ^:t rjitfay of 1^ b^ mdidoBi I
cnaacari •ilb IW ltiBHit.111 LetlK^
%. B. Ditnr. SERMONS ON SL'^B-
recrs CONNECTED WITH
THE OLD TESTAMENT- Bj S.
R. Dbitxi. D.D.. Canon of Ctuin .
Charcfa. Rcghu Plofessar of Hcteev I
in the CiiiiBStf of Oi&aii Cr. Sw.
'A wtkuMi caaaBiiiia ta Ik a^hor't
liMiiM ■■ iMmfaoinB.* ' ri I ilfiii
T. X.^aTH. FOUNDERS OF OLD
TEST.UIENT CRmCiSM. Br
T. K. ChEtnE. D.D.. Oriel Pro-
ttasa at OifonL l^rri Crttmt 8m.
7). W.
A UBorical itcKb a(0- T. &kU>iM.
Tatter Loi*. ST. PAUL, THE
MASTER-BUILDER. ByWALTU
Lock. D.D., Wankn of Keble
CoUegc Cruwm Bkv. 31. 6dL
'TIk cfhKDCt of ibe PuUine ***^*"*f k
coodfcucd ip(a Idik muxt ttan » Edd-
drtd (AfH, yd Ew paial of iiB|fu lance
Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue
25
ii <»'a-1ooked- We gIblLy nconunvnd
(he Lecturtt to aU who wuh Lo read with
undoiUUHlinE. '—Ctt^rtiiaM.
H. n*'^"*" DOCTRINE AND
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He is ofttn leunea, almoit alwayt lym'^
pathetic, and always unEulajIy lucio-' —
MonchrtttT GumriiaK^
H.a.BmMOn. APOSTOLIC CHRI&
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EpisllesofSt, PaultolheCoiintbians.
Bv H. H. Hessos, M.A., Fellow of
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S. K. Hbumii. discipline: AND
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E. H. HenMm. LIGHT AND
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Btniun tsd Adgner- A BIBLICAL
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0. r O. llMUnn»n. TENNYSO>f
AS A RELIGIOUS TEACHER.
Ily C. F. G. MaSTBRHAN. Crvum
81V. 61.
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LAYAVI). M...^. iSimo. II.
T. Barbert BlndlBT: THE OECU-
MENICAL DOCUMENTS OF
THE FAITH. Edited with Inlio-
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Bindley. B.D., Meclon College,
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A hUloriu] accouni of (he Creedi.
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Tbe introductions, ihou^b brief, are
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B. M. Barron. TEXTS FOR SER-
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31. &/.
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1 Kampls. THE IMITATION OF
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With an Introduclion by DtA.s
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Gere. Second Edilion. Fcaf. Stw.
ji. 6^. Paddtd Morixco. 5J.
'AmoDfit all lfa« uuBmcrabU EvclUl
26
Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue
cdiiiau of the "ImiUiion," thtr* an
hvft been few *hich were preilLO- tlvn
tbuanF^prinlt<I io itrong uid handiomc
type, wiih aEI ihc glory of red inituU.'—
J. KvUe. THE CHRISTIAN YEAR,
Bj John Keble. With an Intro-
doction and Notes by W. Lock,
D.D., Warden of Keble College,
lllusuaied bj R- Anning Beu.
Stc<ynd Editiim. Fcap. 3mi. jj. 6^.
Padded tn&roca>. 59.
'Thepmcut edition b Anoouted *itli kU
the cKTc Hiui iau£hl to bB urpected &wb
O£rot^ commentadc0
Geoeml Editor, Walter Lock, D.D., Warden of Kcble Colli^, Dean
Irclfuid's Professor of Exegesis in the University of OnfoTd.
THE BOOK OF JOa Edited, with
iDtroduclion and Notes, by £. C. 5.
Gibson, D.D.,VLcarofLeeds. Dtmy
Bvo. 6s.
'The publishers are tci be conenluliled on
the tu/i the series has aaat.'—Tinur,
Me 11 ip his patkDl, Ijcid, intensl-sos-
tainJDR expluiBEiQiu ihmi Jh- Gibson ii
■I his best/ —^iHrwJ^irT.
'We un hantEy imagine a more useful book
to place in the hands of an intellLgenl
layman, or deiic. who desirea to etiici-
date soDK of the difficulties pteseqled lo
the Bookof Job/— C^w-c* Tiitrti.
' The wdtIe u marlied bj- cleameAi, lifht-
ness of touch, stronR cotaiaoD scvc, and
thorough dilical fumeu.
' Dr. GibwHi'i work jb worthy of a hi^h
de^ee of mpprecialiDA. To the buiy
worker and the intelligent Uudenl the
commentary will be ■ real boon ; aod il
will, [f n are not mibtaken, be macb ta
demand. The InCroduclion ii almoai a
model of conciw, tiraiEhtforwaid, nre-
faiDry remaiki qd the subject treated.'—
f)an&boofi0
General Editor, A Robertson, D.D,
THE XXXIX. ARTICLES OF THE
CHURCH OF ENGLAND. Edited
with nn Imroduciion by E. C. S.
Gibson. D.D., Vicar of Leeds. late
PrincTpnl of Wells Theological Col-
lege. Sf^onif and Cheaper Edition
in One I'olumf. Df:myBv&. izt. 6tf.
* We welcome with the uimwl salisfaclion
a new, che;ipef, ftnd more convmienl
edition of Dr. Cil-son's book. It was
Seaily wanted, t>r. Gibwn has given
eologicaUtudeniaJusL what they want,
and we should like (0 think that it wa&
in the hand< of every candidate for
orders- '—GHardiam-
AN INTRODUCTION TO THE
HISTORY OF RELIGION. By
F. B. JKVONS, M.A.H LiO.D., Prin-
cipal of Bishop Hatfield's Hal J.
Demy Bvo. loj. 6d.
' The merii of this book Ties tn the penelra-
(Lon, ihe 'lingular acuieneu and force of
the author's judgment. He ii at once
Of ITbeoicdfi
Principal of King's College, Loxkdon.
critica] Bad ImniDouii at ooca jut asd
suggeslin. A com^vebcDHTa aad
(borough hoolL^ — SirminfAam P*Mt.
THE DOCTRINE OF THE INCAR-
NATION. ByR, L, OrrrEv. M,A,
bie fellow of Magdalen Coll^^e,
Oj(On.,and Principal of Pusey House^
In Two Volumes. D/rKy BitJ. 151.
' A deu and remarkably full ucoant of the
main cunenu of speculation^ Scholarly
, precision . . . genuine tolenoce . . -
intense interest in his mbject — arc Hr-
Olt ley's mKiia^'^-Ctiardtmm.
AN INTRODUCTION TO THE
HISTORYOF THE CREEDS- By
A. E. Burn, BD,, Examining Chap-
lain to the Bishop of Lichlield. Drmj
Svo. lof. 6d.
*This book may be expected to ht^ iu
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Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue
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Hbe Cbuccbman'0 libtars
General Edilor, J. H. BURN, RD., Exnmining Chaplain 10 the
Bishop or Aberdeen,
THE BEGINNINGS OF ENGLISH
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D.D., Lord Bisbop of Edinburgh.
CrarDH Bvo. 31. 6rf.
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EVOLUTION. By F. B. Jevoms,
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happily cxpnuvd.'— J/ajvAfffrr £r>ur-
diaH,
' K singularly frcth and tEimulatiDg book.'
—Sftaktr.
' We have no hwiiaiion in «>inE Ibiu this
14 much Lhc ben gentTaJ accouQL of Eho
pbilaKtphicnl c-jnivqueiKO of Ibe (heory
of Evolution thai hu yel appeared.'
—GnArtlimM^
ITbe Oburcbman'fl ISible
General Edilor. J, H. BURN, ao.
Meun. Methuen arc issuing a series of eiposilions upon most of the books of
the Bible, The volumes m\\ be practical and devotional, and Ihc ten of the
authorised version is explained in sections, wbicb will correspond as far as
pos^ble with ihe Church Leclionajy.
THE EPISTLE OF ST. 'AUL TO
THE GALATIANS. Eiplained bj
A, W. Robinson, Vicar of All
Hallows, Barking, Feaf. tvo, ij. 6d.
nil.
' The most attractiTe, KAuble, and uutmc-
live nunual for people at large, which
w* have ever teen-'— CAxpfA Cauttf.
ECCLESIASTES. Eiplaioed by A.
W. Stebans, D.D. Fcaf. Bvo.
dK Xibtsrt Of B)evotion
J^ll 8u», tlm*. as.; Uatlier, 21. dd. mi.
'ThUlBnIienelltDt,'— Thi BisHor of Ixjhdok.
■ Veiy delightfdl,'— Th« Bimor or Bath abd Wtijj.
' WeD worth the alteuEioa of ihe Clergy.' — The BtsHOp or LiCHrrELD,
'The new "Library of Devolioii" ii eacellent.'— Thm Bishop or Prruloiooo.
'Charming.'— ff™™L ' Delight ful.'-C*Wfe* Blilt.
^'rScholorly^ luggealive, and 'particularly
inlcresl ing- ' — BatJtmaii,
THE EPISTLE OF PAUL THE
APOSTLE TO THE PHILIP-
PIANS. Explained by C. R. D.
BiCGi, RD. Fcaf. 6vo. u, 6d.
nil.
' Mr. Biggt' work it very IlKjropgb, «nd be
baa maoaged U compeaa a good deal of
iafonDatioa iaic a limitod ipace.'
'-Cmtrdimm.
THE CONFESSIONS OF ST. AU- ;
GUSTINE Newly Tranilanled,
with an iDtrodnctioD and Notes, by 1
C. Bigg, D. D. , laie Student of Chriii
Church. TJiinI EHIUh.
' The iranalatioa ii ao ucellcat piece of
EngLiih, and Iht introdoctiov li ■ mat-
Itrly eapvaition. We aa^ar well of a
•eriei which begint >o iitufactBrily.'—
Timi$.
28
Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue
THE CHRISTIAN YEAR. By John
Keble. Wilh Introduction and
Notes by Walter Lock, D.D.,
Warden of Keble College, Ireland
Professor at Oxford.
'Th« ToLume i& very prrlliEr bound ind
printed, and may fmirly culm to be ui
uivince on mny pieriinii cdittDna.'—
CttartililH.
THE IMITATION OF CHRIST. A
Revised TransLation.with an Introduc-
lion. by C. BlCO, D.D.. late Sludenl
of Chnsl CKurcb. Second Edition.
A pTACEEcaJlf new trnnslnttan of (his book,
which the readft h**, almoiE for tbe fini
time, exactly in the ibape in which it
left the haocls of theauChcn-.
' A nearer approach to tbe DTiginal thaa
has yet eauied in English/— ^cd^emr.
A BOOK OF DEVOTIONS. By J.
W. Stanbridoe, E.D,. Rector of
Bainton, Canon of York, and some-
lime Fellow of St. John's College,
Oxford.
*]( isprobabl^thebest book of Its kind. It
deserves hi£b commcDdalion-' — CknTth
GmitU.
LYRA INNOCENTIUM. By John
Keble. Edited, with lotroduction
and Notes, by Walter Lock. D.D.,
Warden of Keble College, Oifocd.
PM 6vt, 31. ; Itatlur, si. bd. ntt.
' Ibis iweet ud liagcuii book bu nem
been pubtbhed more aitrvcliTely-'—
Academy.
* Tbe work a fivea m aa deunty a fora at
any it bas yet taken.' — Scotsmam.
'Tbeanaipisand notes are discriminatuiE,
scholarly, and helpful . ' — CIturckltnntw.
A SERIOUS CALL TO A DEVOUT
AND HOLY LIFE. By William
Law. Edited, with an Introdnclion,
^ C. BlOC, D.D., late Studeni of
Chiist Church.
Tbu is a Tcprinl. word for word aod liac fcv
line, of the Editiff Princept.
THE TEMPLE. By Geobgb Hu-
bert. Edited, with an Inlroduction
and Notes, by E. C. S. Gibson,
D.D., Vicar of Leeds.
This edition contairu WattonV life of
Herbert, and she text is thai of tbe (bn
cdiinn-
' Ai neat and destrable an edition of lb*
work as am be found.' — ScttnmMn.
xea&etfl or Keitgion
Editedby 11. C. BEECIIING, MA. With Pariraiti, Crmn Ztxi. is.6d.
A series of shorl biographiei of the most prominent leaders of religious
life anrl thought of all ages and countries.
The following are ready^
CARDIN.AL NE\\'.M.\N, Ry R. H. 1 AUGL\ST1NE OF CANTERBURY.
Hl-tti.v. I ny t:. L. Currs, D.D.
JOHN WF.SLEY. liyl. H. OvE,<-'W'f-l-'A"„J;'^"D. ByW. H,
TON, M.A.
BISHOP WILBERFORCE, By O,
W. Damell, M..\.
CARDINAL MA.N'NING. By A. W.
HUTTOS', M..-\.
CH.VRMC^ SIMEON. By U. C. G.
Muui.t,. D 11.
JOHN Ki:i!LE. By Walter Lock,
U.I).
THOM.\S CHALMER.S. By Mrs,
Ol.lPIUST,
LANCELOT ANDREWES. By R.
L, OirLEY, M.A.
JOilN KNOX. By F. MacCins.
JOHN HOWE. By R. F. HORTOS.
D.D.
BISHOP KEN. By F. A. Clarke.
M.A.
GEORGE FOX, THE QUAKER.
ByT. HODCKlN, D.C.L.
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THOMAS CRANMER. By. A. J.
MA50N.
BISHOP LATIMER. By R. M. Car-
LYLe and A. J. Carlyle, M.A.
Other volumes will be announced in ijue course.
Messrs. Metuuen's Catalogue
«£»
Fiction
SIX BHILLINO NOVCUS
Katie Qorem's VoveU
Civwti Sm. 6j. ta<k.
A ROMANCE OF TWO WORLDS.
Tvitty-tril BHtitn.
VENDETTA. Sl^l^r* EJtlitm.
TIIELUA. T^tnlfUird BdUitm.
ARDATB: THE STORY OF A
DEjXD self. Twiftk EJititm.
THE SOUL OF LILITH. iVutt
WORMWOOD. Ttntk SJitifm.
EMRABBAS : A DKEAM OF THE
WORLD'S TRAGEDY. nirtr-
*ftk Biilim.
'Tka tmiim nnrma at tfac tmMaat
tai lb* laacliuti** laiatj «I lb* mil-
itC hannccacBci Ulo !>■ itiifcl
IM rasMpllMi, Md (tM caaticilon !•
foneda mUulnwwwalMBMb.
i«t caaaolbtaad* loefcniBino— ,
ftmU** li kcDtocaiH In Ihcu** •piril
cf CMitian ukb. Tha UBfdi&mlunt
•f llMStrifnn* Minttn arttfttn c«-
ulRd villi Uth Batik imMiI, knd ibi>
"Dnuiof A* Varid'tTncwIy- n
■ MV7 iBd MM iMdtquM funfiirta*
df the wipc^w cAsa of tn* itw^r«d
Bumlv*.'— /M<M Jrivfn*.
THE SORROWS OP SATAK.
• A yvj pcnnHU pint of ■«tk. ■ . . n*
CDHHlM li waldOMI, Md l> llkdy
M win >a ■liitig pfaca iriiUa Iti
■BKutref Boa. ■ • • Ita amkoi kw
InnuaM cownMiid tt ltuuat% lad ■
liBillaaaodKkir. . . . TStUNtMilBC
Wd HIlllMhlt (MMM« vOI Etc kot
irflBBiu* of Ibt utiintftl liiaUB*
of lb* dar I* forsDiwa ... A llMfwy
[fciJUMMlB . . . nml, Md cthi Mb-
linH.'— V. T. Ste4d n Ibt Ktrtnt
Anttion; Hope's Hovel*
Crvm Sim. Ci. taik.
THE GOD IN THE CAR. Ninik
SMtim.
• A *My iimirtitilt beak, dtHnbii o(
crilkal aaalyA tavowibla ■tibia aat
limii; VtOliHi, bn oet Biiiiitiiil:
«*U «auU«d, bat a«i ttalanitdi
eoMlTiKied wiUi ibt ptsniUtl art IhM
wf»U. bM TM tOawi ioaW is bi
taisTid liy nadm lavhoM iDt Ibna*
•M ibod It 1 tola rlcoin'- rb irv JL
A CHA.VtiE OF AIR. FiftM EMtlm.
■A t'M'tti, i^itackm ««B*dr. u«t u
boMB aama. Tba rbinuMn an
Mocd «hb a MHarir haad.'— TVan
A MAN OF MARK, l-lfli Eiititm.
-Of tA Mr. H^fx'* kflkL "A Uaa •]<
Uwk ' U tbt <»• >hi<b bcu cmpruM
•iUi "Tht FriMsEt 0* Z««da."—
/rM>Ma/CNun«r.
I THE CHRONICLES |0F COUKT
ANTONia Prurlk EJittm,
'It it a pntmlf T-h-Hlit UWT ^l *>•■
•■d (ainrilT. **l pM* iMIWCa. TV
Cb«I it tbt BOM Ban— ^ dHpwij.
and •odtu uid Modu «f lottn, apBit.
Ina mdUmim. *• ■itii|tJ tigiaa, ■
biiblDl (ritBd, aod • antPMliaaai In. '
PIIROSO. tlliMwud bjr n. R.
MiLua. FfurOi Edititm,
■n* iait It ihanMhl* frctb.oaA wiib
•iuUiy, Ufarinf lEi ldead.'-^r. /tmi^i
■FnB mm la eew '• Pbnto' OM oiIt
•aciCM lb* anadta, boi unit* ibt
nadti In Iftlh vblrb af diUii feoa
tdnalHrt 10 ■dvtHBn.'— irfA^f^r,
30
Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue
SIMON DALE.
lUii£trited, Fifth
* There is learchipg arulysu of human
□alure, with a mml ibgeniousLy cod-
•trucled plot. Mr, Hope hu drftwn the
Gontruli or hit women with nuarvellotu
tnbtlcEy Hod delicacy, '—T^m/f.
THE KINGS MIRROR.
Edition.
Third
' In elvgance, delicacy, mud ucl it ranla
with the besl of hu navels, while in ihe
wide ruige or iu pDrtraitur? mnd iht
tLbtill^ of ill uialyiia it lurpKisca uil bii
eulier ventuict. 'S/tttmUr.
'"The King's Mirror" ii a tOtjnt boolc,
chnried with ctoKKEuJysuandezquicitc
Irony ; a book full of pathot ojod inor«l
fibre— in tbort, a boot to be rc«L"—
CUlbort Parker^B Novftlfl
Crvwn 8titf. 6j. tack.
PIERRE AND HIS PEOPLE.
Fifth Edition.
'Storiei happily conceived and ftody ex.
ecnled- Tharfl it itienglh and f eniua id
Uf. Pajktf'i *tf\^'—Dmih Ttitgrapk.
MRS. FALCHION- Fourth Edition.
' A iptndid Bludir of character. '—
THE TRANSLATION OF A
SAVAGE.
'The plot 11 original and one difficalr to
work out ; but Mr, Parker hai done it
with peal fikilJ and deUcaqr- '
—Daily CAr^ic/f.
THE TRAIL OF THE SWORD.
lUoslraied. Srz'^nh Edificn.
* A roiuingand dianiAiic laU- A Dock like
\h\%r ^n which swords fl^uh, great sur-
piiiei are undertaken, and daring deedi
done, m iih!4.h men and women live and
love in the old pai^lonale Wiiy^ is a joy
ine" pre isible . ' — Ifti'fy Ckrcniclt.
WHEN VALMOND CAME TO
PONTIAC; Tlio ^lury of a Lost
Napoleon, Fvurih Edition.
'Here we lijid joinance— realf breathing,
living romance, 1 he cliaracler of VaI^
mond L^ diiwn unerringly-'— /"o/^ Ma.li
AN ADVENTURER OF THE
NORTH : Tbe Last AdreDturo of
' Preuy Rem.' Sttond Edition.
* The pmcpt book a full of Ane BBd ^n-
mc iioriei of ibc cnal Hoitli, ud
wUl add to Mr. Putv'i almtdr hi^
reputatipo. '^Gl^tiwm Mtwmid^
THE SEATS OF THE MIGHTV.
lUuStrntedL Ttntk Edition,
' Mr. Parker has pfodaced a mllT fioa
falaldricat DOveL'— i^fit/wnme.
'A trealbook-'— ffAic*«WN'Ar7r.
THK POMP OF THE LAVILET-
TES. Sfcond Edition, y. 6d.
'Living, bicathing TomaiKe, unforced
patboi, dind a deeper knowledge of
human nature than Mr, Paiker faai ever
displayed before," Pmit MmllGm^Ut.
THE BATTLE OF THE STRONG:
a Romance of Two King*Jotnt
Illustraled, Fourth EtJiiion.
' N^olhing more vigoroui or more hamaD hai
come from Mr, Gilbert Parker thaa (his
novcT- it ba* all (he graphic power jf
his last booL:, with truei feeling f^f ihe
rouiance^. l>OEb of human life and vi:j
na lure. ' — I, ii/r^tmrt.
Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue
3"
S. Buios Ounld't Hovels
Cr^tm Sw. 6t. tatk.
'to Mf Ihit ■ bxFk u by Ih* utlm ef " Malalili'' U lo imply that il conlaiu >
Ma>7<ia>« uiOM Em. emminlm dtnaaik iMwIMUHtfc »lvtd mJ lyppMUlIt Jwoip-
liofH of Kmupb. «a B wwlb ofinitqiov iBUcery/— *f>><«wp.
'ThUirkMOtrUt. BAriecOoBtdiiilinU mllmRb ntdiBL ■■ • tOKlwiao thai ««r
b* n>T BMcnlly uectni Hu nnn ef 111* ar* frwk and vitaraait, hit linpuca
viMritM iBancmkile. the inddtau cf whick h* naliM aM an lUAlag hhI otQInaL
bb cbaraclen arv Hfc-lika. and tbeaib KHDCw%al CBcnfiotiaJ pacpk, an dia«Q SM
calomd vlib aniaik (m«*. Add (o tEli ibw U> dMoipiloa* cf mnn md Miaan ar*
BaiMed villi Ike Wiint <r<) ud ilolM handt ol a aumtft ef M> art, Ual bt b tittjt
TMih and aavff dcQ. ana ■! U ao vondcr Aal nadan haia fBi»c eonfidanc* in bb
pow «f aiautlni anil uiMylnt ibMi, lad ihM yau by ytar bla ptyaluiiy wtdon.'—
ARMINELL. F>/lk SdilUm.
URITH. FtfthBiitin.
IN THE ROAR OF THE SEA,
SenHth E,fi('im.
MRS, CrKCiKNVKN OF CURGEN-
VEN. Fsuriik SitiHn.
CHEAP JACK ZITA. FmrtMKJIttm.
THE QUEEN OF LOVE fi/li
fiiliii,
MARGERY OF QUETHER. TJkinI
JACQUETTA. iTi.Vrf «A(iW.
KITTV ALONE. FiflA EJiti^nt.
NO^MI. laotlraled. Fumrlk EUtitn.
THE BROOM.SQUIRE. llknlntnl.
/'.■ur/A EJititvi.
THE PE>fNVOOMEQUlClCS>
DARTMOOR IDVL1-SL
tiUAVAS THE TINNER. Illut-
iraKd. Sttim,1 FJitim.
nLADVS. IDuitralnl. SttaeJ RJitiffn.
OOMITIA. musniol. Sttatd£M.
tun.
PABOTHEPRIESO-.
Conui D«n» ROUKD THE RED
IJiUP. to A. CflSAW DtmjL
SevtiM Sditim. Crmn teo. ti.
'Tlw bask kt hr and ava* ibi ban vlt*
ttol bM bcM laa^toaTrl aa biUnd ihc
aMBH al Am aaimlllnfln— '—tOiu-
aualw Wbthiui. CNDER THE
RED ROME. Hy SrAKLEt Wbt-
MA.X, AuOior of -A OmUobui of
Fruim'-' With IClunraiioaa br R. C
Woouvau. Fi/Hnlk Sditim.
Crtm 8tv. 6t.
■ Knrr Baa rb* nadt kodit w all bmu
•Md lU* OaUHat reMaBca. fraa Lb*
im pac* of *M(b M lb* la*C tba Inalb-
tN*n-larbhaMal«aa- A*l>!Fl^
CbHKA.
bUM KiOM. THE WAGES OP
S!N. iiv LvcAs Haixt. J»tr.
tttnIA £/iliM. Crvtratun. 6t.
Umm VtoM THE CAKISSIMA
Hj LL'-as Maltt, Auihur of 'The
rAifrf Fiitim.
Wafca ot Sin.' etc.
OMnnaiMlkg. THE TOWN TRA-
VELLER. Br GtOKCB Gusi.sc.
Autbot o< ' DcoiOi,' ' Ib the Ym of
fubOee.' etc Sit«iiJ Siilitit. Cr.
'Il il ■ Mlb aid vill* kxli atB»a all
ibiiHk Fully SiwbH b a ataodld U
'Thaii^iof [kc^c&t bia h,'-
OMrnOUdM;. THE ('ROWN OE
Llt-E. ItfGkuftaeGtuit.io. AdUio*
of-tlMnaa.' 'Tbe Town Tn>t«Ucr.'
MC ClOBX 8t» fit
'Mr. CJMic ■ »i hb hBt.'—AntdimM.
• A Dm urni'—Ortit*.
I. K. OtMkrtl. LOailNVAR. Br
S. R. C-XOCicnT, Author oi 'The
Raider).' «tc; tUuHratcd. StntJ
£JMi»i. Cnrtn Sh>. b.
■rnll 1/ pdlanuy aad patb«a, eT tba daft
32
Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue
of UDU, unA hnghUned by cpjtodet of
butnouT and Jove. , . .'■^H'ti/miKtirr
Gaultt.
8, B. Crockfltt- THE STANDARD
BEARER. By S, R. CROCKETT.
Crotvn %vo. 6j.
'A dellghiruL lilc.''- JjAro^r.
* Hf . Ciockclt At bu betL' —LHtrtttMr4.
UthUT MOZTIMIL TALES OF
MEAN STREETS. By ARTHUR
Morrison. Fijth FMtion, Cr.
'Told with cofltDnunate vt unci eitrB-
ordinuy dcuiL Id the inu humanilr
of tbe boolc liei iU jtudficaliop, lb«
pernuDCDce of iU iotcrcit, and ill in-
dabLtmbLc Uiamph.'"AiJunrKm.
'A great book. The authofi tntthod i(
■maaDglf fffeclive, and producn a
ihriJJine $eiuc of rcatity. The wrL»T
Lay* upon ui a matter hand- The book
11 limply appaLlinE aod in-esuiible in
iti LaterciL _ 1( ii humoroufi also ; wiih-
agt bumour it irould not make the mark
it is certain to make.'— ^drU.
AzthUT HOTTlflOlL A CHILD OF
THE JAGO. By Arthur Morri-
son. Third Edition. Cr. %z^. 6s.
' The book i( a maslerpiece.'— /'d'V JFa//
Casttte.
' Told wiih greai vigour and powerful sim-
plici 1 5". ' — A IhiK^M w.
Arthur Homaon. TO LONDON
TOWN. V>y Artiu-k M^jHkisoN,
Autlior of ■ Tales of Mcin S[reei5/
clc Si^otid E.lsfi,'ti. t>,i-,'wS:v, 6j.
' We have iJylllc pkiurc-i, n jui!l:tr.J, *cene^
full of undtrnt*.* and ^r.ice, - . - Thia
is ilic nc* ^[^^ Arihur ^Eiirri'-on^iraciJus
and lender, sympiiiheiic and human-' —
Daily y'c'tf^r/i/'A-
*Thc ca^y swing of tlcLail pr^cl.iim- the
mavici" of his p'lihr'^ct and ihe :.[:i^i in
rendering-'— ^^i*// .Vni/ Gazctr^.
B, Sutherland. OXK HOUR AXD ■
THE NEXT. Hv Thf, Duchess i
OF SUTHEBLASD. Third Ediii^-"*, I
Crown Siv. G.i-
' Parjiionale, v^vJ^^, dcamaiio,' — J-iu>'.i(u'i-
' ]l JJlJ^«^'.^.^ niarked qntii'ii'i:-.. fc^.-riplivt, ,
and imn^injlivLr' — .Vi'^ii'-'^ /\'tl.
Mn. OlUlbrd. A FLASH OF
SUMMER. By Mrs. W. K. Clif-
FOSD, Aulhor of 'Audi Anne,' eu.
Seeond Bdilian. Crown Si«, (a,
iUtj iM.'~S/tMirr.
BmnrlAWltM. HURRISH. Brtbc
Hooble. EuiLV Lawless, Anibor of
' Mkelcho, ' etc Fifli Editiai. Cr.
8bb. G>.
Smtlr UwlwL MAELCHO : a Sii-
teeath CKaVarj Romance. B; tbe
Honble. Ehilv Lawless. Sttoitd
Biition. Crirum iva. 6i.
' A TS.II7 gral }ioolL.'~Sfictaier.
* OnB « fbK butt Kmark&Uc UIovt
icfaicnmsnti of thii gennlisB.'— Tc»
Bmlly lAWlMi. TRAITS AND
CONFIDENCES. By Ibe HodUc
EIhilv Lawless. Cr^mi 8w. 6s.
Eden FUmpotto. THE HUMAK
BOY. ByEDE»PHiLLPOT-rs,Ainhot
of 'Cbildien of (he Miit.' With a
Frontispiece. Fourik Edition. Crown
tvo. 6s.
* Mt. PhkECpotts knows evactly what tcbool.
boji do, and cui tay barr tbtir inmofl
Iboufhla; Itkewkbe hr show^ an all-pef-
vading sense of humour,' — Aca*iemj.
E. W. Hoinune. THE AM.ATEL'R
CRACKSMAN. By E. W. Hon-
NUNC Crmon Bi'o. 6j.
' An audaciously enrertaining volume,'—
Jane Barlow. A CREEL OF IRIbH
STORIES. By J.^SE Baklow,
Aulhor of 'Irish Idylls.' SitinJ
Edition. Crown Btw 61.
'Vivid and singularly real.' — Sc^ttman.
Jane Barlow. FROM THE EAST
UNTO THE \VE.ST. By Jane
BaBi.Ow. Cnrj'n Sv.\ fa.
Bn.CaflyiL ANNEMAt'LEVERER.
Hy Mrs. Cakfvn (loi.i). Author of
' The Yellow Ajler.' Sei-jnd EdiHsn.
Crown Zvo. 6r.
Messrs. Methubn's Catalogue
33
■•njunu »»ui. SIREN crrv. Br
BcKj AUiK Swit^. Anibor <rf ' Nokjp
Noon.' Crm Siv. 6i.
'"Siiwi Ciiy " B tauinly tn W>l ksok.
wd li bi Oh sierk W • aranf mnt. Ii
ho aebrieiy. hit aitf id nmtmt, bal of
i. K PlBdlkUr TIIK UREl-UV
CKAVES OF &ALCK)WR[E. ftf
]ASK H. FUfW.ATKS. Fturti
BditUn. Civmn *!«, 61.
■ A ■«waM •»! *itM iMnr. ' ' J'MMtxA
'A HuniAil'Hnp.iadmliuuictH Inlh
UhH.'— KaMfrXi^'
' A RTT dtBVhc •■< fMbMfa Bib'— ^Kf
' fl Ir li ll V"'. — . '"•* ^ —
•urv.'— (AhvSIw*.
'RtoHdi lo » ■■nrwriMraToadMitacd
ftcnliT tad i«*r« (««•.'— .f^MUMr.
'Aa«4Duil*iilr!l. dalkME, K^aiaf, u4
J. H. PbiAAtar. A DAUGUTER
OF STRIFE. Be JaKR Hrtjw
FlS«.ATE«. 0*»M B»o, fo.
J. H. PlndUUr. RACHEU Br
Jank U, rMtKJiTE*. SftgnJ
HJitiim. Cnm 8iv. 61.
' A aa) nvmRbir HMauer ID " T%b Ones
Cn>« tl ttdfonli." '^^rMi.
nndlKMr. OVER T1IE
HlLLS. By Ma«» Kikolatwi.
StetnJ Bditiet. Cr. »av. 61.
'A unB|*ndiniI>i«liaf 4t*piBiitbi«iiil
lurfhKhlBt trmW—B/nrimt^am Pml.
■UTT rMBaUr. BKTTY MUS-
QRAVa Bf ManV PiMDUnti.
Strmd Saiiam Crvm Bm. 6(.
■Man«*4*4ihd>(nUrii-l diMeKr- ■ . ■
Asmi Mwhiiit (Mrr-'^f/KtAU*.
AlftM OtUraM. On'D DOR THK
UREY DOi} OF KlfNML'iR. D;
AUHKD OLUVAHT, Tkiri EdititK,
Cr. Sp*. «i.
*W*M <billii«^ uHUiatT cnvkia-'—
/VwA
■Wfnteinilikbiulr. . - - liMMtMiad
*tih wlminUini ul M tnlwwtah <«•
iSmw Ji.'— *<■ 111".
' It n • Dnt. »firi»fc. blnd-HHnns toec,
u b> •n^^T'd I7 miy nan Md — ■■■
ID vb«iiadDa»d(ir.*~-UM*a<Wc
& K. Crttor. PEiJGV OF THK
RARTONS. Br B- ^1- Ckokkk.
"^,
Antbor of 'Dnaa BantnBtoD,'
Ptvrth BittifH. CrmnSm &i.
UnuCnhacnikiBllnadaiinUriiBpIt.
•UT. *nd 4kKi »am of bsBHruin.ih*
WdiBMt of b« didtCDc, and ibc c<Dt>
^ityeriHrpaRnitv*.'— ^MVa*^'
KuT I^ Fcoiknd. AX KNGUSH-
MAN. Pf' Maiv U Pr.NnEiKu.
d>v«m>tw. 61.
' H« bs(& U BSM hulifcr Id iot*. Md
Ihw a pliuuil Uil« ■■ ib( mlalb.'—
fall HtJlGiuttU.
* A VTiy noUc t>»cA. Ilii GIMwkbvuIai*
and iTiB^iilhr.'— £j»nia7 HW.
' Al MO* WMd IMd dIoVllW.'— .^M^B^.
■flTln' KoHuta. THr PLL'X-
DERBRSl Dt NtORLKV RUKRTI,
Author 0( ' Du: Colouu*.' ««'.
Crpitor Stv. 6f .
'TIk wikiM Hcarti Md muMhh i)>i
wdw"! Ittthr Jannu ia hit tSmm ab-
wAki. — /W/ ATwOr Cawru.
'TiM «ii«l«aaDMffcH* kdw <d t4h )plrt»
■ad li^ ooMdrZ-Obfr.
'Mr. R<tei1iaika«rR*l pwfdt vh» da
Ihan and know llaaai.*— iMiet ■■/
MwaiaLertiMr. mirry-ANN. Dr
Norma Lorimkn, AiMbor of 'Jo-
luhtWiir.' €mnt%ta. ta.
■Th> Wmh ii nn *ad mftMc. bn
awl At dM b hmk did «n ■nXclaad.'
-rtiiMiiicattm.
' It i* a UiBtit Kery. aod a ri^it aliW Hctr.
TW aiimyhcn it ucdlrM. (*• d(«rip-
ti<i II ni>[r 1 fine md Ibc ■«* i> «»
wkicfi *in npay pi mil '—iHnigim
HtraU.
' A Uani anni which it u «n« dacm,
prxiWI. aad in tbc bctt ««■■« tra^'—
8«ln BUMOH. THE STRONG OOD
CIRCUMSIANCl:. Bf HsucM
ShiTTOH. Cifwa tiv. &.
'A «UfT •* ^h BBii aad BBf mxan-
*Aa op-io-diils — y-and » wry > i—llfiil
DB* — of atfif-vhTiAcv.' — Dmify TtU^
' A aoa TdMtin uuiT. vtilwii mill fcecb
ia^hi aad kMfbmtw.'— £mA ifm
34
Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue
violet Hunt. THE HUMAN IN-
TEREST. By VjoLKT Hunt.
Auihot of 'A Hard Woman,' Me.
Crewn Bifl?. 6s,
* Clever observniiorj and unfailing »il.'^
'The Lnti£h( is keen, the iroTiy is iltVl'
aut. — Wv'/d.
H. O. TbUb. the stolen BA-
CILLUS, and Diher Stories. By
H. G. Wells. Setaad Ediiion.
Craan &vo. dr.
' The impiessiDnAafaverj striking imaiinA-
lion.' — SatiKrdifi Rn'iew.
a O. Wella. THK PLATTNER
STORY AND Othebs- By H- G.
Wells. Stcond Ediihrt. Cr. Siff.
6i.
^ Weird nnd myslciioiu. th«y seem lo haM
The rendtr u by a DiAfiic ^ptM,'— J'ctf^i'
rruin.
Elcbard MaralL MARVELS AND
MYSTERIES. By Rjchakd
Marsh, Author of 'The Beetle'
' While undu ihtir iLiunediAtF tnfliitri4:<: the
rraJei \r, conKioiia of nothing hue thrilE-
ine «vcilein?n( anil LLiTiiiMly.' — Oiasf^tb
Hiraid.
' In^eniju^ly crtnslrucled iind well told,'—
Morning Ltnjer^
' AilmiriiWy '■elccitiJ .-iiiJ ••( [he very bcMr'
— Cfiriilia-n fi'prhf.
Eamd Stuart. CnKJSTALL.^ Tty
' The ilary is hnppily Cunctlvcd, .iTi^k cini:i'
laiiLini; ihToliftliUiil, ' — ^tflimaa-
'An CKtf^Kedt i.ii.Ty, pafhtfic, anLl fdi .f
' Wc with ihji wc bZiLinc acTD^^ mure bii'jl,';
like ihii clf\pr and charniiiig >Tiiry,- —
Qora Jeonnette Diincan^ A VC'YAGE
OF CONSOLATION. \\y SAHi
Jkannkttk Duncan, Atidifjr of 'An
Aiiisrifc:jn Girl m Londai^/ liJiis-
lr?vled. Third Edition. Cr. Z-.o. 6j,
'A mijsi drlighiruMy briL^hi hook,'— Oaj/.i'
Tefeera/-k.
' The di.Josue i^ full of "nil. ^G/^i.
Sara JeBLimette DuQcon. rnH f'A
OKA>TAk. by ^ARA JLVNNH
Duncan, Author of 'A Voya^ of
CfjnsolaiJOD.' Illustiatcd. StienJ
Edition. CrffWH 8tw, 6j.
' RichueH tnd fullnei* of Focftl colouring.
brilliancy of ^tj'le, smiting phrases, and
tht dLsplay af very preiiy humour are
places *hith are here in pfofuiion. The
I n tcre^ [ never flags, '-^Fail MaiiC^xrtct.
a F. KeaiT. THE JOURNALIST,
B^C- F. Kbarv. Cr. 8tv. 6/,
' |[ it raie inflctd lo find sudi pcviical iym-
pnlhy with Nature jointd Id c1o«e&tiulv
of character and iingol^rly iTuihfut dia*
logue : bul ihfn "The Jouirialiu' b
altoEeiber a rarf haci'k-'—Atkf^t^Mm^
T.B-Norrlfl. MATIHEW AUSTIN,
By W- E, NoHRis, Author of ' ^f^de-
nioi^llij de Mersac/ etc. F^ttrik
Edition. Crown Zvo. hi.
' ^n intellecliuily -dii^actary and moiallT
bnicing nm'eh'— ^*i^ Ttlt^r^pk.
T^ENonlB, HIS GRACE. By W. E,
NoRRis. Third Edition. Cr. %oa.
6r.
W. E, SotriB. THE DESPOTIC
LADY AND OTHERS. By W. E.
NoHKis. Cr(?ura Sva. ds.
W. ENotrU. CLARlSa-VFURIOSA.
By VV. E, NOkHJS. Cr. Bm. 6i.
' As a tli^y it !& admirable, at aj'nt ttti^il
ii i>i capital, 0B a Ifly Ki-moQ (Tuddcd
with ftCTus of wii and wisdom ii i» a
mcniel,'— r*/ Wey-ld.
W. E. Norrla, CJTLKS INGILHV. n.v
W. 1'^ NdkRJS. /ilmtriiifd. Stvond
Edition. Crown %vo. 6[.
' Iiiicre.'.iin);, whak-^nn^n :ind chArmiiLsly
li riilcjir" — Giuinoiv Htrixid.
W. E. Norris. AN OCTAVE. Bj-
W. K. NOBKIs. S/ioml EJils^n.
'\ vx-ry perf.cl e*j»o*iliDn of ibc self-
rejrv.iinr. iht p^rfecl kni-iwkjge of *>
ciciv :inil il- w-nys, Ihc dcfit.-il*? *cnse of
buiiiGur, whLh Jfc [he ni-im chjrac-
tcri-llL- of ihU very ^•^-mph-ihrd
.\\nh.>ii .' —L'funtry f-'/i-
EruBBt OlajivlUe, TilKDfiSPATCH
Rll'iiU, rij t'lBSt.-r (il.ANVILLE,
AuihorofTliL- Kloof Bridt' Craicn
Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue
35
W. Olaik KnHtiL UV DANISH
SWEETHEART. Br W. Clark ,
FJilica. Crmtn 8ew 6i.
R(.t)«n bmt. [n the midst of
ALAKM^x By RoliKRT BaRK.
TMrd EdilifH. C>. (Mv. 6s.
'A b«ck vhkh kM ibiiidwiy talkOHl bi
hyaUnpiuJbiiiBciiu.*— Aa^y CJtvm'c/f .
■Mi. briWacUovl • utmat^-^faa
Boben Bur. THK UL'TABl.t:
MANY. By RusEur BAim. SttmJ
' V«y ffiuch tht bat oanl iliil M(. Bart
ku y<( (ln« BL Tbin ii audi iouihi '
111 It, mhI wKb uOTlkn ba)Mu7— i
Omlf Ckrtmkb- I
Bobot Burr. THE COUNTESS!
TCKLA. Dr RouilBT BAlla. Third
e^itif*. Crrmn ttio. U.
*0f thftc mnfqrvsl fwniiw— > «likfa w
noo (Uilnc doaad, "Ti* CmmM)
Tctli ' ii the Ttrr kX n Iwvt H<»
Th* tlaiy <• sriiKn Ib <J«m> B^IU, i
■lid ■ BtaiuiEwac. MO>inc itfit'—F^U
ttmtlbmm.
Asdi«w bmubw. by ^mtOKB OP
SWOItD. Bv .\. HAt.l>oUK. lUn*-
tnted, Fanrlk BJUitn. Cr. Supi 6i.
AfclMllB of HOdllllDp.'— ^fdd^art.
■A ndul (4 ilinlNid bitrai, uld ■itk
' An uiiwmlly «H«Uint «aiBplt ef ■ ■•a*.
Andmr Bolfimr. TO ABMSI Bv
AsirkltW BALfOL'K. llliutfMM,
SitanJ EJilita. Cntn Biw. 6f.
' Tb( lumllsin pirili ihisiptfi wIriA AMka
CM trt uld In Baantfiil tad liiahr
Us, '—/-a// AT JrCMMW.
AaOKW Baltonr. VENGEANCE IS
MiNi'.. Bv Axrwftw BALroim.
AinbcK of ^ By Sci«kc o( Svonl'
A*1c«mt f^nof V4cb.mll vririin, tail
klo^HllM U tiltitac lanJuiif.'— CAh-
J. lUcUMB Oebbui. THE KINO
OK ANDAMAN'. A Saviour ol
SocKlf. Ilf J- M.ta-A>KN Cpt>AK.
'An aiHytMiaMWir leumnlKC botk. ti
rmmiu as* thaiiCMr. u Icwn. vbab»
la hlB (b> not <>( jMMuMnr.'— /'otf
J. MulUMi CoVbta. THR ANGEL
OP THE COVENANT. By ;.
MACUklEN CopnAK. Cr. 8sv. 6(.
B. v. SWpbMlt. AN ENEMY lO
THK KrNO. By K. N. STE?tiBl.».
SMondBdnwu. Cr.tta. (a.
'Ii ufvUof navvcuvitt uhI ibc iii3v«Bcni
'A uimnc ttonrvlib elnilyof mevtairnE.'
B. K. SMpbuia. A GENTLEMAN
PLAYEJt. By R. N. StKI-hkw,
Author or 'Jtsi Kncinr lo lt« Kinc.*
Cmmr tm iSf,
'A blifbl Uld l^Hlilcd MBMOe «r blvoi-
tur, fall of iK»«iBfDI jnd dun^ac
B. Bktinw. BYKWAYK. By KoKVT
HiCHEMS, Autbot of ' FlADiei. rtc.'
Stt»ad £Mlint. t'r.Siv, 6i.
* n* imh t> nudKiiiiUy l^•■ of ■ nw tf
Hf Aiii( iaa^Auniog, — AinO' A'nq.
J. B. FMebtr. THE PATHS OP
THE PRUDENT. »y J. S. FLTt-
cnnt. CnrmSwi fii.
J, R BniUO. IN THE DAY OF
ADVERSITY. By {. Bloummllr-
Buaiox. Sta»d EJiii«m. Cr. 8m. Ai.
■ Unoiullv im it« ua Ml af U(hlr
J. 8. Bvtoo. DENOUNCED. By
J. BMIUXDKLLE-BURrOM. J«Mni
EditlgH. Ctvan St«. 6f.
' A Am, lauly, wifMtt MCa (< wmk,'—
J. a B«nan. THE clash OF
ARMS. By ). BtAL'NUClxt-BVR.
TOM. SuHid Editwn. Cr. $tv. 6l-
'A %f«v« Mny — kn'T* b» ^rwl, bnn in
nHI, bnn In ibeocM.' — SI. famtii
i. ■. miMI. ACROSS THE &\LT
SEAS- By/. BM>li9ll>«.U.Rt.ltT0N.
SflOfd Hdltiia. CrPUfH Bro. fiJ.
*T1ir v»v mtua of tbv me r««alic
ifiiil.-— ynU.
36
Messrs. Mbthuen's Catalogue
W, 0. ScnUy. THK WHITE HECA.
TOMB. By W. C Scullv, Auihot
of ' Kafir Stories.' Cr. Bui, 6s.
^ Rcvtali m mHrvcllouBly tDliEniM undn--
ituidiDf of Ibe Kaffir niiid.'.— jf^nn
Critic.
W. 0. Scully. BETWEEN SUN
AND SAND. By W. C. SCOtXt.
Author of 'The While Hccatooib.'
Cr. 8m>. 6i.
'The reader putei at ODce into tbc wty
atmoiiAere of the AMcui desert : tH
ineipmublc tpace uid iditliieu tvaUow
btm up. aod then u no world foi kin bai
thai timseuDnble wutc' — Al'
OTHBR eiX-SHILUNQ NOVILS
Cttmn 8iM.
DANIEL WHYTE. By A. J. Daw-
EON.
THE CAPSINA. By E. F. Benson.
DODO : A DETAIL OF THE DAY.
By E. F. BsNsoN.
THE VINTAGE. By E. F. Benson.
lUiuirated by G. P. Jacomb-Hood.
ROSE A CHARLITTE. By Mar.
SHALL SAUNDBKS.
WILLOWBRAKE. By R. Mitrbav
GlLCRRIST.
THINGS THAT HAVE HAP-
PENED. By Dorothea Gerard.
SIR ROBERT'S FORTUNE.
Mri. Oliphant.
THE TWO
Oliphant.
the lady's
Ol.lPHANT.
MARYS.
WALK.
By
By Mrs.
By Mrs.
LONE PINE: A ROMANCE OF
MEXICAN LIFE. By R. B.
TOWNSIIRSD.
WILT THOU H.WF THIS
WOMAN ? By J. M.ici.ARF.s
Cobban.
A PASSIONATE I'lLGRIM, Py
Percv Wiiitk.
SECRETARY TO RWNE. M.P,
By W. Pett Ridge,
ADRIAN ROME. By E. Dawson
and A. Moore.
THE BUILDERS.
Fletchev.
By ]. S.
GALLIA By M^NIE Mdriel
Do WIS.
THE CROOK OF THE BOUGH.
By M£nie Muriel Dowii.
A BUSINESS IN GREAT WATERS.
By Julian Corbgtt.
MISS ERIN. By M. E. Francis.
ANANIAS. By the Hon. Mrs. Auut
Brodrick.
CORRAGEEN IN '9!. By Hn.
Orpen.
THE PLUNDER PIT. B]r J. KUCH-
lbvSnowdbh.
CROSS TRAILS. By ViCTO« Waite.
SUCCESSORS TO THE TITXE.
By Mrs. Walkjrd.
K!RKH.\M'S FIND. By MaBt
Gaus-t,
DEADMAN'S.
CAPTAIN J.ACOBUS : A ROMANCE
OFTHEROAD. By L.CopeCorn-
ford.
SONS OF ADVERSITY. By L. Cope
Corn FOB D,
the king of alberia. by
Lauba Dainthev,
thedalghterofalouette.
By Mary A. Owen,
CHILDREN OF THIS WORLD.
By Ellen F. Pinsent.
AN ELECTRIC SPARK- By G
MANVtULE FENN.
By Marv Gaunt.
Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue
37
UNDER SHADOW OF THE
MISSION. B7 L. S. McChesnbv.
THE SPECULATORS. By J. F.
Brewer,
the spirit of storm. bj
Ronald Ross.
THE QUEENSBERRY CUP.
CUVK P. WOLLKV.
By
A HOME IN INVERESK. B7 T.
L. Paton.
MISS ABMSTRONG-S AND
OTHER CIRCUMSTANCES. By
John Davidson.
dr. congaltons legacy. by
Kenrv Johnston.
TIME AND THE WOMAN. By
Richard Prvcb.
THIS MANS DOMINION. By the
Aulhorof 'A High Liillc World.'
DIOGENES OF LONDON. By H.
B. Marriott Watson.
THE STONE DRAGON. By
Murray Gilchrist,
A VICARS WIFE By Evbi-tn
Dickinson.
ELSA By E M'Queen Gray.
the singer of marly. by 1.
Hooper.
THE FALL OF THE SPARROW.
By M. C. Balfour.
ASERIOUSCOMEDY. By Herbert
MORKAH.
THE FAITHFUL CITY. By
Herbert MOKRAK.
IN THE GREAT DEEP. By J. A.
Barhv.
BIJLI, THE DANCER. By James
Blvthe Patton.
JOSIAH-S WIFE.
Lor I HER.
By Norma
THE PHILANTHROPIST.
Lucv Maynard.
By
VAUS.SORE. Hy FRANCIS BkUNE.
THRKI-ANB-SIXPENNY NOVKLI
Crnvn ive.
DERRICK VAUGHAN, NOVEL-
IST. 4aitd l/uutand. By Edna
LVALL.
A SON OF THE STATE By W.
Pett Ridge.
CEASE FIRE! By J. Maclarkn
Cobban. Ovum Bin. v. dd.
including tbc ^ih* of PDIchcTxroni ami
ihe Defell oi MbjuIu
' Brighily Utld uid drawn with a itrong and
lure band.'— .Vf./i«jvji'i Gmatttt.
* A capiul novel." — Sccljmj^jt-
' Fact and fkiion arc ito deeply wovta
together that the book reads like a Tas.
ciiialing chapter of bittory- '—/*■// Mm/i
entitle.
THE KLOOF BRIDE. By Ernest
GLA!4VI1J.K.
A VENDETTA OF THE DESERT.
Bt W. C. Scully.
SUBJECT TO VANITY. By Mar-
garet BsHtON.
THESIGNOFTHESPIOER. Fifth
Edition. By BERTRAM MiTFOBD.
THE MOVING FINGER. By Mart
Gaunt.
JACO TRELOAR. By J. H. Pbarce.
THE DANCE OF THE HOURS.
By 'Vera.'
A WOMAN OF FORTY. By Esm£
Stuart.
A CUMBEREB OF THE GROUND.
By Constance Smith.
THE SIN OF ANGELS. By Evelyn
Dickinson.
AUT DIABOLUS AUT NIHIL.
By X. L.
THE COMING OF CUCULAIN.
By Standi SH O'Grady.
THE GODS GIVE MY DONKEY
WINGS. By Amoui Evan Ariott.
38
Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue
THE STAR GAZERS. B; G. Man.
rtLLE Fkhs.
THE POISON OF ASPS. Bj R. ,
Obtoi Pitowss. I
THXQUIET MRS. FLEMING. Bj
B. PITCS.
DBBNCHANTMENT. B/F.Mabei.
KOKHSOH.
THB SQUIRE Or WANDALES.
Br A. Sbixld.
A REVEREND GENTLEMAN. Bj
J. M. CUBBAN.
A DEPLORABLE AFFAIR. By
W. E. NoiRis.
A CAl'ALIER-S LADYE.
DlCKEK-
THE PRODIGALS. Bf^i
Oliphakt.
THE SUPi'LANTER. Bf P.
MANN.
A MAN WITH BLACK EVtJ
LASHl^S. By H. A. K.Emu)T.
A HANDFUL OF EXOTICS. I
S. Gordon.
AN ODD EXPERIMENT. . %
Man.iah Ltnch- '
TALES OF .VORTHUMBRl
Howard Pease.
HALr-OROWH NOVEUS
Cnmm Sev.
HOVENDEN, V.C. By F. Mabel
Roll1N$o^t.
THE PLAN OF CAMPAIGN. By
F. Mabel Robimsoh.
MR. BUTLER'S WARD. By F.
MABtti. Robinson.
ELrS CHILDREN. By a MAH-
VILLE FENN.
A DOUBLE KNOT. By G. Mam-
VILLE FKHH,
DISARMED. By M. Bktham
EDWAtDS.
IN TENT AND BUNGALOW, tf
Ibe Author ol ' Indiin Idtlli'
MY STEWARDSHIP. Bf m
M'Que&N Gkat.
JACK'S FATHER. By W. B.
NOHKIS.
A LOST ILLUSION. Bjr t«a»
KStTU.
THETRUE HISTORY OF JOSHUA
DAVIDSON, Christian and Cam-
iDiuiiii. By EL Ltkk Lnnw.
Elevetlh Edition. Post 8m u.
^be Wovelist
Messss. MSTHUEM are mnking an inlfiresting expffrimpnt which coDSlitntei »
fresh dcpaiiure in publishing. They are issuing under ihe above geaeiai wic
a Monthly Series of Novtls by popiikt authors si the price ol Siipmce. NUaj
ofthese Novels have never been published before. Each Number is u kmg u
the overage Sis Shilling Novel, The first number! of ' Ths Novelist ' «je M
follows : —
\. DEAD MEN TELL NO TALES.
E, W. HORNUNO.
IL JENNIE BAXTER, JOURNA-
LIST, Robert Bask.
III. THE INCA'5 TREASURE.
Eh NEST G LAN VILLE.
IV. A SON OF THE STATE. W.
Pett Ritx;K.
V. FURZE BLOOM. S. Baring
Gould.
VI. BUNTER'S CRUISE C.
Oleic.
vii. the gay decervers,
Arthur Mooke.
viil. prisoners of war a
BOVSON WeEKES,
IX. THEADVENTUREOFPRIN-
CESS SYLVIA. Mrs. C. F,
WlLUAMSON,
X. VELDT ANDLAAGER:TalB
oflbe Trans v-iaJ. E. S. Val».
TfNE.
XI. THE NIGGER KNIGHTS.
F. Nohrevs Connell,
XII, A MARRIAGE AT SEA W.
Clark Russell.
Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue
39
Books for Boys and Girls
A Stritt ef Bucks ty uill-kiiawn Autkart, mell tliuttraUJ.
THREE- AN D-aiXPENOE EAOH
THE ICELANDER'S SWORD. By
S. Baring Gould.
TWO LITTLE CHILDREN AND
CHING. Bjr Edith E. Cuthell.
TODDLEBENS HERO. By M. M.
Blaks.
ONLY A GUARD- ROOM DOG.
By Edith E. Cuthell.
THE DOCTOR OF THE JULIET.
By Harr* Collinowood.
MASTER ROCKAFELLARS VOY-
AGE. By W. Clark Russbll.
SYD BELTON : Or, Tht Boy who
would not go to 5^ By G. Man-
VILLE Fenn.
THE WALLVPUG IN LONDON.
By G. E. Farrow.
ADVENTURES IN WALLVPUG
LAND. By G. E. Fa»row. sj.
The Peacock Library
A Seritt af Beaks far Girls by wtll-kntmn Anthers, handiamdy baund,
and •uittl illuslraUd.
THREE-AND-8IXPEN0E EAOH
THE RED GRANGE.
MOLBSWORTH,
THE SECRET OK MADAME DE
MONLUC. By the Author of
'Mdle. MoH.'
By Mrs. DUMPS. By Mrs. Parh.
A GIRL OF THE PEOPLE. By
L. T. Meadb.
OUT OF THE FASHION.
T. Meade.
By L.
HEPSY GIPSY. By L. T. MeADK.
as. (kl.
THE HONOURABLE MISS. By
L. T. Meade.
University Extension Series
A seiiei of bookt on historical, literary, and scientific lubjecti, niitable (or
eiteiuioD studecti and home- reading diclei. Each Tolume is complete in
ittclf, and the lubjecti are treated by competent writer* in a broad and
philotophic spirit.
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beyond the specified time.
Please return promptly.
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