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LO TLAMUMUE ID ALI. 





THE 


MODERN HISTORY AND CONDITION 


or 


EGYPT, 


ITS CLIMATE, DISEASES, AND CAPABILITIES; 


EXHIBITED IN A 
PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS IN THAT COUNTRY: 


wine 
AN ACCOUNT OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF 
MOHAMMED ALI PASCHA, 


Faow 1801 To 1843; 


rraneraneap 
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS OF SCRIPTURE HISTORY, 


‘THE FULFILMENT OF PROPHECY, 
a 
‘THE PROGRESS OF CIVILIZATION IN THE RAST. 


BY 


WILLIAM HOLT YATES, M.D. 


MRMBER OF THE ROTAL COLLEOR OF PHYSICIANS IX LONDON, GRADUATE OF THE 





‘OF EDINBURON, 270, 





5 cao a pie tod ies 
1 GER SST ST ETT SOLS ee orcs ree 





IN TWO VOLUMES, WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. 
VOL. I. 








LONDON: 
SMITH, ELDER AND CO., 65, CORNHILL. 
1843. 








London 
Printed by Srzwanr and Muasay, 
Old Bailey. 





PREFACE. 


Ir is not a little extraordinary, that although so many 
works have appeared on Egypt, we have no history of 
the country since 1807, when General Fraser's unfor- 
tunate expedition was undertaken, after the expulsion 
of the French by Nelson, Abercrombie, Smith, and 
Hutchinson. No countries have excited greater inte- 
rest in the public mind than Egypt and Syria; ond 
none are likely to engage a larger share of attention 
in time to come. During more than forty years, a 
struggle between the two leading Powers of Europe 
has been maintained for political ascendancy in the 
East, and many have been the schemes for preserving 
the balance of power in the Mediterranean, and the 
integrity of the Ottoman Empire. The appearance of 
the French in Egypt was a signal for the advancement 
of bold and enterprizing characters ; and it became the 
stepping-stone to the fortunes of Mohammed Ali, 
through whose prowess, extraordinary shrewdness, and 
desperate measures, innovation upon Mussulmaun 
prejudices, and the consequent breaking down of the 
most formidable barrier to the advancement of Christi- 
anity and civilization, in fulfilment of the mysterious 
and wonderful designs of Providence, has (unconsci- 
ously on his part) been effected. I have given a 
sketch of the life of this extraordinary man, and traced 
a2 


be is |e | 





iv PREPACE. 


the means by which he rose from obscurity to rank 
and power. No sooner did he effect that object, than 
he began to take measures for the assertion of his 
independence, which led to a chain of important 
events, which, as we have seen, were likely to have 
involved the whole of Europe in a war. Of these 
events we have no connected record, although the 
great doings of the Pascha of Egypt have been the 
universal topic of conversation. For a long period, 
very erroneous notions were entertained concerning 
them, in consequence of the garbled statements of 
interested parties, more especially the French, who 
(having so engaged His Highness’ good graces that 
he would listen té nobody else) made a point of flat- 
tering his vanity, and of crying him up to all Europe, 
and, I may add,—through the silence also of many 
respectable and experienced travellers, who were 
thoroughly acquainted with the real condition of the 
country, and might have disabused the public mind. 
But this, 1 apprehend, is no longer the case: the 
Pascha’s policy is seen through and understood ; and 
though it may suit the purpose of merchants and the 
East India Company's agents to compliment him from 
time to time, these gentlemen are too intelligent and 
too humane to shut their eyes and their hearts to the 
eloquent appeals which are continually made to them 
by the patient but wretched population of Egypt. 
They may not be aware of the full extent of the 
Pascha’s avarice and monopoly, but they cannot be 
altogether ignorant of the misery which his’ reckless 
ambition has entailed upon his subjects. ‘The objects 
then of this work are, first, for want of a more complete 
history, to furnish a record of passing events since the 
battle of the Nile in 1801, but more especially during 





PREFACE. ¥ 


the last twelve years :— secondly, to. bring before the 
reader a faithful and impartial account of the Pascha’s 
character and proceedings, and an undisguised state~ 
ment of the condition of the country:—with, lastly, 
observations on the climate, its diseases and capabili- 
ties—the whole being exhibited in a personal Narrative 
of the Author's intercourse with the people during a 
long residence in the East. 

In order really to understand the character of an 
uncivilized people, it is necessary to mix, with all 
classes, and to see thein under every variety of cit- 
cumstance, in sickuess and in health, in prosperity and 
in trouble; but the generality of those who quit the 
* Halls of their Fathers” to wander in more distant 
regions, very naturally shun the abode of misery, and 
are deterred from entering the habitations of the poor, 
Jest they should contract some pestilential disease; and 
others are so delicately constituted, that their feelings 
revolt at sights which they are compelled to, witness, 
even in the public. streets. The medical man, how- 
ever, who is accustomed to such scenes, and who is 
regarded by barbarians with superstitious yeneration, 
has opportunities of eliciting the reaf sentiments and 
feelings of a nation, which none but a medical man 
can expect to meet with; and 1 do not. hesitate to 
leseit sha in Syria and Asia Minot, I bave been well 
received, in districts where others would have met with 
rough usage, being mistaken for spies and the secret 
agents of hostile tribes—to say nothing of the mistaken 
zeal of fanatical bigots, to which all are more or less 
exposed, The sick, the halt, and the blind were 
‘brought down to me in great numbers wheteyer I 
went, hoping that J would “lay my hands on them, 
and heal them,” I administered to their necessities as 





vi PREFACE. 


far as circumstances permitted, which called forth 
their gratitude, and obtained for me their entire con- 
fidence : they laid aside their wonted caution, and 
did not hesitate to unburden their thoughts, which 
they certainly would not have done to an ordinary 
stranger, for reasons which will appear in the sequel. 
But the narrative of a traveller is always best appre- 
ciated by those who have trodden the same ground : it 
unfortunately happens that, owing to the great variety 
of contending interests, vory discrepant accounts ob- 
tain a ready circulation, and the public at large have 
no means of knowing what they ought to believe. 
Again, some readers, of an ardent imagination, not 
unfrequently suffer their eyes to be dazzled by the 
superficial gloss of ingenuity, and judge of a work 
rather by the manner than the matter, and are thus in 
danger of being led into error. A tale well told may 
amuse, though it instruct us little: an author may be 
more remarkable for his talent than perspicuity ;—his 
pictures may be overdrawn,—and having once dis- 
covered that an historian mixes fable with his facts, 
we remain in doubt as to what is real, and may 
possibly regard the whole as a romance. The follow- 
ing pages profess to contain no more than plain 
matter-of-fact, and if at any time an opinion is given, 
it is only after carefully examining the subject in all 
its bearings. 1 frequently meet with statements copied 
chiefly from foreign journals, which have obviously 
emanated from the Pascha’s agents, and which any 
impartial observer, who is practically acquainted with 
the political machinery of Mohammed Ali, well knows 
to be false from beginning to end; yet the articles are 
well written, and calculated to deceive the most intelli- 
gent. Those who haye resided some time in Egypt, 





PREFACE. vii 


will doubtless find many things here recorded which 
are familiar to them ; and if to such persons they do 
not offer the attraction of novelty, they may at least 
claim the merit of accuracy. To all such I can with 
confidence appeal ; and 1 am satisfied that whoever has 
visited the East as I did, on his own account, as an 
independent traveller, will, without ieee confirm 
all that T have advanced,—although, as regards the 
correctness of my inferences, I am liable to fallacy like 
other men. I have simply related what 1 saw, and 
what I know to be true; and having no private 
interests to serve, I feel myself in a position to speak 
my sentiments without reserve: but the better to 
enable the reader to draw his own conclusions, [ have 
adduced the evidence of others, whose judgment, 
experience, and principles are worthy of respect. 

No man can travel in these countries without seeing 
a great deal to admire: to such I have given my 
unqualified approbation, and, in some eases, 1 have 
even ventured to bring them in competition with those 
of civilized Europe, feeling that we might profit by the 
comparison: but I am sorry to say, that we also see a 
great deal which every man of principle must condemn. 
We cannot always judge other nations by the standard 
of European excellence; and whilst writing this work, 
I have often paused to consider what I should say, and 
how I should act respecting those things which I could 
not approve. Willingly I would have passed the subject 
over in silence, but I felt that I could not conscienti- 
ously do so. I conceived that if I wrote at all, the 
public had a right to know the truth. In justice to 
mankind, every author ought to himself, and be 
steady to bear the anger of those who, from interested 





vill PREFACE. 


motives, are not in a situation to express their real 
sentiments. 

The termination of the Syrian campaigns, the 
ascendency of British influence, and the Overland 
communicaiion with India, have turned the public 
attention to Egypt more particularly ; and although I 
speak generally of Syria and the Turkish Empire, my 
‘observations refer chiefly to the banks of the Nile. 
The present is a most important epoch in the history 
of the world, and it is interesting to watch the changes 
which are taking place, 1 have commented on the 
progress of civilization, and illustrated Scripture by 
facts, customs, and the fulfilment of ancient prophecy : 
and T am not without hope that my remarks may tend, 
in some degree to counteract the spirit of infidelity 
which has, of late years, been gradually insinuating 
itself throughout Europe: nevertheless, the publication 
cannot be considered a religious one. I have adopted 
the style of a narrative, and carefully avoided politics, 
attaching myself tono party, My opportunities in the 
country were known to be extensive, being in daily 
communication with natives and Europeans; and 
since my return, I have kept up a regular correspon- 
dence with public and official individuals. I am in 
possession of important documents relative to the late 
crisis, and I have preserved from authentic sources, 
faithful records of passing events up to the present 
date; so that, although I have refrained from entering 
upon those minutise and political reasonings, which 
characterize purely historical writings, these volumes 
‘will be found to contain every thing which is important 
in reference to Mohammed Ali and his own times, 1 
have continually appealed to the Pascha’s actions, be- 





PREFACE. ix 


cause I do not admire his principles; but I have, at 
the same time, pointed out in what way his despotic 
measures are calculated to do good. 

As regards the antiquities, I have nothing new to 
offer, and I do not profess to write about them : never- 
theless, I have not passed them over in silence. We 
have many excellent works on the subject, and to these 
Lbaveirebred The same may be said of the an- 
cient and natural history of Egypt, the manners and 
customs of the Aborigines, and the religious rites and 
ceremonies of that mysterious, talented, and extraor- 
dinary people, who for centuries held the world in awe, 
and taught our fathers wisdom. 1 have alluded to all 
these things en passant, and | trust in a way which will 
prove useful: for it has been my earnest wish to ad- 
duce such facts only as are historically incontroverti- 
ble, and the legitimate inferences from which are cal- 
culated to instruct the understanding, and improve the 
heart. Ihave endeavoured to lay before the reader 
in ao simple, plain, and unpretending form, circum- 
stances which, whilst they illustrate the fulfilment of 
prophecy, will convince him of the utter insignificance 
of all human wisdom, when not regulated by virtuous 
principles, and which, if duly reflected on, will leave a 
just and lasting impression upon his mind, of the aw- 
ful judgments denounced against the wicked, and 
which, as the Bible testifies, were so literally and fear- 
fully brought to pass, 1 have commented on the rise 
and fall of nations, the progress of Science and the 
Arts—the baneful effects of education without religion 
—the folly of intellectual, and still more, of 
pride—the terrible consequences of idolatry and su- 
perstition,—the defection of the Jews, on whom such 
signal blessings had been lavished, their captivity, dis- 





x PREPACE. 


persion, and promised restoration, their recent perse- 
cution—the sufferings of the early Christians—the 

state of the Protestant Church, and the pro- 
pagation of the true Gospel, in spite of the pernicious 
innovations of presumptuous and corrupt men. 1 
haye, moreover, considered the religion of Moham- 
med,—the spiritual darkness which for ages over- 
shadowed the earth—the persecution of the sword— 
the decline of Islamism, and the extensive changes 
which are now going on in the East—together with 
the remarkable subserviency of all worldly institutions, 
and the schemes of ambitious men (established as 
they are for secular, if not for selfish purposes,) to the 
accomplishment of the great and beneficent designs of 
Providence, viz. the progress of Christianity, and 
Civilization, and the ultimate Unity of Christ's 
Church t 


“ There's « Divinity that shopes our ends, 
Rongh-hew them how we will!" 
Suaxaveane, 


“ When the proud steed shall know why man restrains 
His fory course, oF drives him o'er the plains ; 
‘When the dull ox, why now he breaks the clod, 
Ts wow a victinn, and now Egypt's god y 

‘Then shal! man’s pride ond daltnces comprehend. 
His actions’, passions', being’s use and end ; 
‘Why doing, suffering, check'd, impell'; and why 
‘This hour a slave, the next a deity. 

‘Then say not man's insperfoot, Heaven In faalt ; 
Say, rathor, man's ns perfect ax he ought; 

‘His knowledge messur'd to his state and place: 
His time a moment, and point his «pace. 

If to be perfect ius certain sphere, 

‘What matter, soon or late, or here, or there ? 
"Tho blest to-day is as completely 40, 

As who began « thovsand years ago. 


PREFACE. 


Heaven from all creatures hides the book of fate, 
All bat the page prescrib’d,—their present state; 





From brates what men, from men what spirits know 5 


Or who could suffer being here below ? 

‘The lamb thy riot dooms to bleed to-day, 
Had be thy reason, would he skip and play? 
Pleas'd to the last, he crops the flowery food, 
And licks the hand just raised to shed bis blood. 
Oh blindness to the future ! kindly given, 

‘That cach may fill the circle mark’d by Heaven ; 
‘Who sees with equal eye, as God of all, 

A hero perish, or a sparrow fall, 

Atoms or systems into rain hurl’d, 

‘And now a bubble burst, and now—a world. 
Hope Aumbly then ; with trembling pinions soar, 
‘Wait the great teacher, Death ; and God adore.” 


Woburn-place, Russell-square, 
November 17, 1842. 


Pors. 





aiv CONTENTS OF VOL. 1. 


Marectis— Campaign of 18M — Herarins — Cancpes — Canopie 
twanch of the Nike—Lan2marks of the Desert—O7eia! Selasives— 
The mirage. or * water of the Desert"—Town of Rosetsa—The Grand 
Quay—Panorama of the Nile—Slanctter of the British troops at 
Racers So 1506 Shegheted aad deans coin of the pooe—The 
trilinguar sone Se |. - + Page 45 


CHAPTER VL 
Ascent of the Nile to Fouah—Egrptian women—Scenery of Lower 









CHAPTER VIL 


From Fouah to Bakkarah—The Pascha’s avarice—Scriptare illustra- 
tions—Climate, sickness and health—Dietetics—Egrptian dancing- 
gitls— Polygamy and divoree—The harem— Ancient remains — 
Canals of Lower Bgypt—The Natron Lakes, &. 2. . 197 


CHAPTER VII. 


Journey from Bakkarah to Boulac—The Delta—The Pyramids—Ob- 
jects of Natural Histors—The Mamliks—The  Compaigas’ of: Nee 
poleon, his success, and defeat, &e. . Bert) 


CHAPTER IX. 


Environs of Cairo and Boulac—The Turban—El Had’gj—Salutations 
—Scenes and impressions—Entré of the Imperial City —“ Bt 
Malan,” and“ Birket Bs-Bequich ” — Reflections — The Frank 
quarter—Hotels, &. 2 we : + + 264 


CHAPTER X. 


Cairo—The British Consulate—Turkish notions of Franks—Osman 
the Maml0k—Human life—The exile—Messrs, Maltass and Robin- 
son—Galloway Bey—Hints to travellers, &. + 282 


CHAPTER XL 


Varieties of Oriental costume—The beard—Barbers and coffee-houses 
—Arab surgery—Hints to travellere—The philosophy of clothing— 
Scruples of the ancients concerning dress—Cotton—W ool—Flax— 
Manufactories —Remarks on climate—-Scripture corroborated — 
Scribes of the Bere epemiigns for the » interion —dtzing cand’ 
gins, &e. : x + 300 





CONTENTS OF VOL. I. 


CHAPTER XIL. 


Cairo—Improvements of the Viceroy—Statistics—Fukirs nnd impos- 
tom—T'he insane —House of incurables—Scriptare illustrations — 
Sepulchres—"" ‘The possessed” — The casting out of devils—The 
Blessings of a fostering government — Religious fervour — Arab 
method of computing time—The mos'ques—Native schoole—The 
citadel, and palace —The mint—Printing-office Hall of the 
Ehiliphes,&. . . 0... ws Page ST 


CHAPTER XUI. 


Cairo—View from the Castle Terrace—Tendency of Mohnmmed Ali's 
ings to promote Christianity—The Khoran—Apology for the 
Bncha—Gallodny Bey Femi p 'ion—Moslem abhorrence 
of idolatory —Estimation of Europeans —Oriental literature —Dis- 
eaves of the heart; asthma; consumption—Donkey boys—'the ass 
of L'hassa—Idols of Mnevis and Apis—The city of “Oa"—The 
shepherd kings—Goshen—The cotton plant—“ Ain Shemyss” — 
“Tree of the Madonna”—The Nilometer of Heliopolis—Boring for 
water in the wilderness, &e.  . 0-0) se BB 


CIIAPTER XIy. 


The basnmrs—Oriental ‘Usury and oaths—Visit to Mohammed 
Ali—Hall of Audience —, ‘istration of uffsira—The Council 
Chamber— Personal of the Pascha— Fis origin and 

history; habits and attachments—Impartial consideration of his life 

for ‘in Mlustration— 


—Schemea adopted for hin deatruction—Anecdotes 
Massacre of the Mamliks and Janiznrieo—Benefits arising therefrom 
—The Viceroy’s relations with Turkey—His talents a4 a diplomatist; 
of the European 
. a8 


of Great Britain—The fall of Caiffa, Beyroat, Triy 
The bombardment of Acre and Sidon—Fngl 





CONTENTS OF YOL. 1, 


APPENDIX TO VOL. L 


Kastorn Letters, Signatures, and Seals. . 
An account of Mohammed Ali's domestic citcle 


z 
= 
5 
i" 


The pe of ov Alesana anata 
Astin nperioninto Bete % 
Articles x; from Egypt » 
CS dene othe Deh Gal at Beat by 


abuts tothe of Corneli Bo wn beeccnake 
pe ce iia ace ok Cire es ee | qj, late cal 


Tai 


The Geet by Cocemntiene Aad soon as he 

hired off the coma of 
Torphin, Paes Jeter ois General Sleyman Fecha before 
Inte ate from Ibrahim Pascha to Mohammed Ali 
the Yombsrdment and capture of Salat eas 


16¢ which took place with Mohammed Ali, 
after the death of the Sultan Mahmoud =. 
tars of the Grand Visier Khosrew Pascha to the Wier 


Lert ‘Moharamed written to the Buropean Consul 
in reply to the ad a sites made to him by the =) 
‘of the Great Powers in Constantinople ==. 
Remonstrance of the Allies with Mohanuned Ali in 1899 478 
Correspondence of Mohammed All and Khosrew Pascha in Fy 
Oficial Dispatches relative to the Tureo-Egyptian Convention |. 482 
Copy of the ‘« Hatth Scheriff” of Gulhanch, with an account ihe 
which its announcement, . 


‘Mohammedan jco-The Patrlarche—Su ition, ee 3 
Metamn pno Te Pu 3 ea Z 


‘Turkish prophecy. 
‘The Overant Communication with India, and Steam Navigation 
‘The, treat of Goods through Egypt, ond the Navigation of the 


he Gorteawett Boss uxt Cates mts Fell Sp ig 
Curious anticipation of Modern events. =. 





xviii 
posed ‘Tomb of Osiris nt, tl, C236: — 


aiming nite at tt 300 


408° women fe 20,24, 340, 
-Abysainians, eh 
ef a, eon 

‘coe Po 


f, il. 194, 195 
th 1. 420; — Otto 


Athan, mentatend poysteat const 
tation of the (see Negro), ti. B68, 


INDEX. 


quence of the discontent and enmity 
eeasloned by his ery of Nagroe it 


tie 
ii. 382, 490, 491, 602 

‘Agricaltaral pursuits, 1.498, 005, 006: 
— produce in Rgypt (see Crops aud 
rey Land), 1, 119, 290, 242; il, 


culturisty 1. 987, 40%; 1. 61, 62, 
‘82, 97, 123, 202, 000, 371 
the Gad © 


61 
Ain, fa Asia Minor, the province of, 


Ailsa Craig, aud the Pyrasnlis tl, 294 
Ain Bhemyss, the # Fountain ‘of the 


Sun," near On, the anclent abode of 
‘the Pharaohs, }. $84; ti, 810 
—— Mousa, the “ Well of Moses,” 


dn, Calf ea70 
Aeipahe oe denies tows, oni ob 
‘lont. of: Tis eloth 


gsccercane 7 manu. 
7, convents, and comtnerce, Ht. 
the corn district and poultry 

's—the price of provisions 


‘Aleppo its foreats, a 
eager VTE; Te 110, 100, 800, 
203 :— ornbteries and 

at, H. 199: — port of, Uh. 198: — 


a 
Nexander the Great, fl, 191,% 
07 henge op 


4.98: — 
f, 


to the Maraboat and 





fall 


(see 


is Hits issg. 


HD ete 


ai : HF is 
é333 ail - 
Uae 


gas), 1 140, 111, 
1, produce, and 


i 


8) 
o 





‘TesoUTCON Ai 05, 
100 —rose ton Appt ie 
cemeteries and 


i. 109 
A ream rieccs, 


Antipathies, ii. 336 

pape sore 
1 181; 4, 

800, 518, S24i—their aon 

ted ile 418 
ul (ace Monumenta), 
410, 430, 4064, 007 

ite te of Me 


Ai, 668 
polis, site of, I. 867, 988 


Nigh, 1 984; 400; 1. 8, 


Canale es High Be Sake an 


Semmes characteris 
me 1, 172, 265, S405 lh, 20, 267, 
Arab prejudices (see Mobarnrn 


the 
407, 51 oat 
or i, BOB s—vene- 
ration for menue Beard), i. 
fete, orton » LIM, 26, iat | sates 
1 
Poa ‘to exagyeral 
Tia p—cedemeet to Shetaet te 








maleate 1. 190, 299 aversion 
adit) Listes talent 
for aul, 1140, 1745 848, 370: 


uring High Nile (see Huts), i110, 
371, 267, 208, 200, 916, 263, 513, 
My 


of. tt 46: — hones of (see Horse) 
Arabilo language; its characters, and 
mode ean them, 1, 92, 100, 


nti Gul pi. 
“Aescatare, Poykt 1. 128, Saunt 


if Re (wee Arabia), ‘the shores and 
cnravans of, 


—freebootery 
iy te ri Trp 


‘rer ewe 





ase, the Noblonesse of the,” 1. 879 
ry 


1 281, 26 


a 


ess & 





—HleAnardk, or “ Blue Tvor® of 
Africa, its course and 1.603 
— of Abyssinia, 


i 
— Yousoutf, tte course and origin, 
1,941; ii. 308, 911, 971, 376:— ite 
4242; 
a it weal, le o7t 
‘Peant of the, 5. 407, 448 5 i, 
1st {a 308 


‘a 
Ballets of 
dos, Me 


22h 
Banks, Sir Joseph, (the tate) tabours 
wf foes 400 Oss 


ee, ‘the civilization of, il. 615. 
‘te 

of the dark agen, 11, 007 
Barbers of the Esty 374 281, 900 
i. 14, 17 emblems fn’ Chiu and 
Tuyhéy, 1.912 —shops, |. 98, 908, 


Tordakeand Balas Khendh, 
wrnoe, 3017 906908, 980 





INDEX. 
‘on the Nile, 1.506 


‘and brick-making of the mor 
10,2155 i, 98%, 


Me 
my ry tribute to the memory of, 
, Brothers, ‘Thurban & Cony 
‘Messrs. 2, 113; 54, 129, 900, 345 
© Bristol of Lond on,” the, 1.73 th 
wo on 


‘extent and Impor- 
Ai, 166, 858 
with aie Ryypt, 
extention of fi ras, 108, 358,017 
peer in te Le 
ee 
216; ene 490, 
609" 3 


‘hi naaton owe 





fant fnotorl, esas 19,15) 1-338, i, 457, 


house, 
061, 275:—monque, barracks, | 480, 482, 513, 610, O11: —~ bis 
Uthogra- 


su aryenal of 001: 


ine en, 47,607 + a aateearpenis: 
me of the event ani cute 
1,467,610 


Benphoraypuomge of the, 101 alee ae ce swt 


sper Been cae, Breil, Me ‘an English engineer, i. 





1.176; 


luis sefontife in 
and lncoeres 
Burial of the’ dead (sve Mohammedan 
87 
‘on the Euphrates, 1, 508; tis 
Bute, shrine of the goddess; her in~ 


tercesaion with Isis for mankind (sce 


Bubuater), Wi 424, 425, 
‘Banas othe Baste Hi, 518 


‘Funeral Obscquies), + 206,227; i, 


Wl bat 


‘Busiris, Temple of Inle at, i, 298 


Burton, Jamery 


Lo. ie 


geaegezauacey 2 ay 
us a ea lial ii H 


ao earn fie 
ERG Taal gen 


Bor'roh 
107 


a 


‘Lebanon, 


tian Manne 
His dy 56, 83, 80, Lot, 
his statements in 
Peonch Admiral, 1. 251 
ond the cedars of 
romantle of, He 110 
‘of Dinca it, i298 5 


610 
“ Retarene"? of the 
wee 
ae 


J 
: 
3 
3 





Government )) i. 930, 387, 
492 5A or" House 


ra : 
of Inourables,” aaylutn for cripples, 
tage ena eet 

schools, be 


the 
348 -—Medrissch, or M 


—— Sevontris, near Cairo, 1.577, 638 
(Coca Irrigation), J. 242, 
‘Cand'giae or boats af the Nile, 4.197, 


19i, B21; fi. 247, |, B83, 
408, 445, 448, 450, 470, 010, 


‘e 617, 609, re in 





e22822 
peel 
i 
a 


i 


and alte of, 1. 152, 154, 
07s — Tangle of Ju 


i 


150, O17 
rs and Caslih, sons of Mia's, ii, 





INDEX. xxvii 


Mets of tho Nilo, thelr | Cabursets, oF Shellauls of Sokkbt, 
ed mumcrerrs, 160,197, ‘Bp shin ore Kain 
17, Te 189, 185,194,001 903, ‘oon 
Caption is Ororgian, tl 299 
Copa aa, ana, 
—y 1,406, O41, GH, G02, 007, 


and 
Gee 1.297, 800) HH. 4, 102, 
poy A ‘ 
cer Na De (ne Cerier), 222, 
R 





xxviii 


S41 to 343, 345, 
ei uh 16, aa 
arta ennpase, nto of 


i= average nvinber 
tsrogane, and vanity 
‘of th, 11, 785 te 
i aed 
cm ite ood Gonhua” (eee 
iy 
ne var ists 63, 180, 207; Hy 


LUS, ete ca sts 
ha. Gin 


—lew foslem defined, b. 
301, 30071 ith 160, ae 


47, soe 
ae ee, 
= i, Nestorian and 


(Chattien j Boer eoent convertion 
tw the Chureh of Bagland, 1,61 





Chrtatans, Mebaramedan notions 
Ei 267, 361, cael 


829, ‘00,410, 
deo: 
1. 847, 9005 1. 


Mobammedanism, 
42, 47, 71, 188, 329, 300:—its in 
troduction to Europe, ti. 164 


rogrow and extension 

7, 358, 305; 1, 25,30, 
198, 101, 169, an, 
467, 618 


Building of the first pyramid, ti. 266 
journ of the Patriarehs in 


raion of the 


‘to Memphis, or Noph, il. 283, 286 
aie n of Moves rand Aaron i287, 


Plagues of: ty Hi. 431 
Departure of the Leraolites, and dex 
siruction of Bocchors i the Red 
See, 1, 200, 290,387, 426 


bers ‘of the Philistines from 
41, 287 


5 
of Joshua; his division of 

sorhenting 

uplter Aminon, worship, and 

of te ovina engl 490,009 

‘Thober, ite foundation, and Inva~ 

‘sion by Sabnoos tho Jethloplan, tl, 

286, 400,508: — the 

Memphis, il, 636 





INDEX. 


Boa oo, asks is oy 20, 40, 88, 
196, 0, 145, 148, Ral ay ‘2a, 
ere be scorn on, ti, 813 
to 


cia, De, ‘writings and oplaions of, 


1, Ovgmandins, or Ra- | Classical reminisconees, f, 20, 47, 85, 
meses TL., reign of, il. 388, 424, 159, 248, 360, 380 1), 16, 


‘the African traveller, death. 


87, 109, 
peg 198, 190, 201, 


7, 


Proleries, 1.378; 1,419, 490, 696 
Rebellion at Thebes under Prlemy 
‘OF Thebes in the thine 


of Ai 6 
wasion of Egypt, tl. 420, 


Churches of the Bast, the orthodox, |. 
40; Mette, 160, Oi 


eee nn nen 





XXX 


i. oa: 


aii 
Caen eprint se 
a dec aid Ros, 31 c 


‘Tranauettor 
or a 103, i 100, 
Sas) ya 


208 
ane 2 
idee Magi 0) tou 
Fora nna gen 
Scie cntont 





iia i. Gt, 05, 67, 
Comsseration of we an Bgyptinn King, il. 
Consolation of the truly pious and 
= of ‘one selfbanished, |. 


modern improvements 
at, L408 — 


of and 
Mount’Labanon, I. Be, 911 ou 
Conversion of St: Paul rer a 

Goote, Genera 208” 





INDEX. xxi 


|, near Beyrout, ecal-plte of, the (sce Monopoly and 
ete ee |e 
renlghy ite 409 Conta ‘of the cock (see Watches), 


Teteilng yet 20s,908; nant 
ok Baspt sha worietics, 1. 200 to 


Cotton bok 
Sat a : riog the, i 188 i 
pat hee ise i 4.206, 18 
coat area 
a; | Curtin, th el fs noosa tmp, 


Seca ss 
Gah and Bie dovcendantes Ik 884, 


‘Castorn-bouse inquisitors, 1. 161, 250, 
201, 960, 204; 11.376, 01 7” 
‘the, |. 182, B44; 
i ), 215 

Bach land lias its owns” ii, 

the vor, le 191, 193 

ito of, 372" 

‘groves of the Bosphorus, 11. 


5 the ports and Island of, i. 
‘% ob fpskelgee Vadis of, 
vind, ancient port and remains of, 
tepmen- | Cyrent, encent port 
Cyrus, king of Persin, ii, 280 








INDEX. 


2383, 006 to e08:—Its reduction by 
the Crusaders, eee dita 


tah ae ‘of, ii, 686, 


Dana, * Lrongate” of the 1.430 
Daw egy f, He SES 


‘Rocky Wilder- 
ness, Hi. 470 
>i 


ite groves, stroam= 
Teta, a mondows, tl 106 
D'Arcet, Mone, 4, 862 ; 11.19 








of they is 125 
Barf, bor, tos Ling eum fom of, i. B47, 
Sultans of. 494+" slavon 
dyecararan we Noga ‘0, 


a of Pe: ii. 195 
ts opal (o8 Gapentiton), 


Darwin, Dre 4, 917; ih. 
aad writings of, 4. 317; I. 


Dashour Pyramids), ji, 306 
Date Puls the (ee Down: 


471, 470, on i, 26, 
au, 317, 3116, 386, B04, 453, 
8 20, 08371 “eal of 


commencement of (ser Watohco), 
Le 


Dearth in time of 1, 201 
Death from Bete atta = 


Clarina 
i i108 
Princess 


2 
Deor of the forest, tl. 262, 569 
Eanes, revels of, fie 480 


Receiver’ of 
abe ad Minister of Finaneo, 
25 ae 25, 211 shia residence: 


savayo barbarity, and 
ree Mei aae ueaBs oO” 
Deftor Khineh te 0, 447, 448 
Debr, the en a of 8 Nubia ts ite situa. 
tion nnd extent, hi gar 


il, 461,484: ancient 
employ tnerpnios, end tombs ut, 


Deir-Hl-Akhmir, ii. 110 
Deir. KleKhammaae, the 


residence of 





INDEX. xxxiii 


of the Dre, 1. | Deserpton of 8 Kuight of Mabe, 

Desert (ae Wilderness), Ul 246, 851, 
Sptare of heh 1ady diay si6T 
—heat and radiation In the, 


982, 301, 417:-— 
wd the i Son, £18, 901 


forte’ th 
—incomprehensibiity of 


‘the temples and tombs 
seat Seat 5 179, 218; 


s A 
tn the, be 
So oer’ 





Lt ‘999, 
13, BOT TOK 20, 


440; 
, $48, 479, 962, S72, 
FP a 





‘the forsmer eupital of Upper 
ite convent, 


14, 41) 
‘0, ih oe 36, 


Pete ‘trad, 114,090 
coe i bt 45 


wrt 


one P 
i 


oo causes of, 4051, 
err “ius, 208, 208, 
», 213, 1 a's ‘i. 39) 





Nivaree, 
Dyan ar Divan, inxary af the, 1. 
pusher; or iit tetra ii 


isn, 232, 
10, 338) ‘B40; = i - a 


3 
4,00, 

81, 977) O78; we 

neti : i. BB, 

‘269, 260, 979, 284, 377 4. B31, 


“Do-séh," ceremony of the eomme- 
‘orton uf Mobasnmet' ity 


am 1 (eo Date), Hh. 846, 2187, 
Dovey iy 198, 906, 401, 
fo Con , 304, 401, 480, 


Dragon of 
meal, 0 edi w, 


Drain of allies 
re tga Discse) 78, 78, {i 


Druses’ of Lebanon; 
Seance 155, om aries 


tae top pret f 





INDEX: NXxV 


ise pots vi ail 1. 004, 
Bagehathing (rnc) tn Rep, 
=“ the syeamore;" te 404, 


"nes ah 
ea 


of 
ane 118, 137, < bi 
fu t—adtaneriioe ot attiey 2 


At ‘2i4i— the old nnd mew 


Aids 
223, 934, 


He 


= 
32 





INDEX. 


‘obstacles to, 1h, G400— 


9, wes delint of 
* ges" oi 98 former strong 
holds of outlaws xnd banditti, Wt, 


+ are abe Shee SO, 19% 
+ iy 
2,483, ut, 167, 495, 590) 544, 


Ancient aud Modern, ti. 417, 
1 river of, of river * Sihox,” i 


Tat ies4 


plongh, &e., tte 


taming, Ae 
the ee 





‘and demeanour, ti. 
3, O11 to U132—habitations (eee 
Lm resources in 

(oe Beal ao srinee 


“ni eae wee fra 
pas erin 
Tiga 
rs lene Boy 2 
ee and fondness 
a 1, 270, 900, 008, 





XXXVI 


INDEX, 


i! 


E 


g2tiais ee 


i 


Heh 


le 


ou 


ai fer 


i 
: 


Sea 


ait 


aT 


a 
55 


ce 
Hei 


ee 


ite 


laceegse 


ie afTaeh 





Hi Hae 

423 eat 

ee Hw 

ca eae re 

ee toe 
clan 


feet 


Bier 
«il ey 


aie 
i: gist Le 





agfiiait 


Ba Hor Hi 





z 





ls ete 


Se, 


ii, 


fe 


ae eae isd 

atlaae 
i 

En ee 





retin, 1 9185 1, 400, 
ity 
MNrwbit Madfounah 


aha is 








xxxvili 


ecip itns 


ia, 


heart, 

4, 08,70, 

PENG Hoyt ie 2, 300,400, 
EBs, defeat of the French at, i. 


the Prophet, 62:—Dis 
wien Deir oo 
Bllora, 


nity 28), 240 

Haifa, tn ‘Nabla, theprovice 

tod village, produce and trade, il. 
472, 479 


Ent lig dy, 


the dead (ree Mummies), 
437, 497, 401 
—— of animals, ti, 271, 201, 202, 


i, 900, 


Is territory and abdien 
favour of the Erlt Khissim, 
1421, 434, 408; i. 110, 102, 102 
Governor = 
Tabanon, his proclamation and con 
‘ocation at Deir et Khimmur, 41,156 
— Kahi's nt Beiteed-Dein, 
14, 696 
nly of tbo Drses (we Deus, th 


Rachamier and Conjurry, I. 341; 





Engineers (see Goverument Scbool 
Sad Doeasts oe) ie 


vay. o783 1. te 


eae sa 


eh eee 
ony so Peal 3. 686, 08: 


Mite ra 
964 the Mkyan nad 
t (eee Ni- 


lle 
Ethiopia, tentelivers of, their Incur- 
weil, at Bedoucens, Arab Tribes, 
558, 07,185,444, 650, 451, 


— government eta t 
orlertaton tea, 8 





INDEX. 


his love of tberty and 
een teres 
eer one 
Mey ean ste) tel, 
(ae Visin), i. 6, 447, 448, 
eras wad Khan, {. 1475 H, 
Tartor of Aes, 
Bamncts, 1-400; 1101, B81, $88,220, 
Boyles poet 
to the, (499 
‘the growing population of, il. 
inewscomeon keer 
petty an css, (oct 
ly 7 i. 86,97, 105,278, 
— Saatitutions, and laws, 
rns 7, 301 : 
-— and Eastern practices a 
1. 199 to 106, 220, 231, 248), 276 to 
970 ; ii. 299 to 40. 
a, eure of andy, 57 
Sesainretate, 
“aa 8, 40,5, 83 
‘Baueton and bribery (sey Tees; ke.) 
4.203; fi. 17, jp 196 
Beaiopld and precepts le 808, 690, 
Reciko (s0e Curtorns, Revenue, and 
‘Bxwitement to be arwided Ia hot eoua- 
et rs Cale ok ‘Dietotion), i. 
Rearien tom 


Molanatnt Aoki 


XXNIX 


Rrenrsion from Bes Gouef slong the 
oe io D'gebel Kolsousn, 


1.000 
Executions of the Bast (ee Oriontal 
Puakresy 4. 2585 UN, 187, 211, 


reierns (. 
Hepadleney, ion: 
eetortioners fae atria 


account of the Holitrous 
‘of tho ancients, fi. 805, 
441, 518, 602 to 60S 


BR 


ables of the ancients, thelr poctry 
ent an 


= 


Famine, fant destitntion, 
ae 
sy B87; a8, 279, 
nati ‘of searf or ven, 1. 
fag on the banks of the Nie (one 
silo Culture and. Com- 


anerce), i. 08 
Papras tn Noi, the ita of 1.400, 





Tesi Wey et le 





‘here 389. 
Paring, he ih prov of on; 


of, b. 210 
ciation the Mee if 
of, i. 108, 810, 


the ld mines of ame 

‘Mohasnened Ali), i. 414, it, 620 to 
‘Fear, demonstrations of, it. 813 

rooms at, [280 

Felix, Major, his literary labours, tl 

Mi Hassanyn (eee AML the Or- 


40, a 00 183, 


8 
ARTE 


‘tas women’ 
4 tribe of the Gambia, t1, 256: 
Er estimation of tho Koglish, 
i 


“ein Pat, tenderness and eom- 


He Q145 ade 
— Sd ii, 224, 


— costume imran i, 221, 


230 
— curiosity, il. 291 

— dloquenes, i. 231 ; ii. 294, 296, 
= the Bast, i. 286 


n, 1.889} 1, 233, 298 





es or bvity, Hi, 86, 228 
— depravity, i, 86, 
comp 11M 
io i 198 
Wenalon; he’ eatracmiiaary power 
which they eviuoe of agcommodate 
themeelves to circumstances, i 
Femmes ones 1 104 
Fennel-flower, 
Fema We poet; 1-200; M294 
Perik Tayar Pasche, Massel of Joru~ 


Fertility of the earth, 1, 603 

Feratny the Cate Pharaat 310 

eativnie and birdhedays, i. 13 

— of the anclonts, 1 298 

Fethori, cr Hull” of the Seheikkh wl 
Talus, Hi. 24, 

oud of ihe Ancient Ombite and 


of Ancient sod Modern 
THE (Me) pd 8 


Fiasanrion, eee Wek E. writ 
of, i. 625 U B89 nied 


Ting, the i Ale OO 
Pax et Lacan $25, or 401: 


Teron ers of of BEND a0 
Fleas, i. 288; L308, 401, 


om 
mater 





INDEX. 


Plost of Turkey site nto 
the handsof Al jk 134? 


ohammned 

ucts connected with Its detent 
nd restoration, 1. 424, 420, 441, 
450, 478, 420, 431 :—its departure 


Me 11, 169, 188 j Ul. 981,571 
Ae West (ree Nike), H. 602 to 


Sor the Payptlan 
Follabye ts i 12304 3087 
Sy igeee cocaaloned by the want 
Voreodstobaur eyster (see Mohamed 





i 
Brune, J. Be ag, writigs of 1 872 


and Commerce), 1. 24, 


yuarian researches and pro= 
10 to 94 175,1905 He 


1, 01, 5D, 


Friends, the thy and kindness 


£0; 


2705 li. 75, 991, 954 to 
rental professions’ of, Hl. 





“memhemes, magtn 


a slips of, 


Geeta Dela a cet, 
“Genius, the Good,” or Guardian 


(ee Mythology), i 270, 


«— the Evil” (sve Spirits), ti. 302 
tiles, Hh, 1085 





second visit to, ti. 488 
Giants Cansewny ofthe Bat. 201, 


serene i. 21, @5, 187, 186, 


Gibarra, Mons. tl, 124 
itty (eee Offinge end, Pree), 1 


Giratie or Cameloopurd ; its a 


‘and dispoaltion, its tenderness, lov 
ree and Beste 


ie 211,74, 444 
‘Gladiators of the Nile, 
ton analy, i. 62, 07, 


Gold Mines oF Fasoploey fe ir; Mle 
to O33 


—— Bilshnrieds, tt 489. 
ag Sumas iin Hungary, ti. 


00, 48S 
“Gorgon " Stean_ Frignt We 
‘Headervon, R. Ny aorrtl a dios 
Andria of the,i, 420: 


genaery of the: 436, 474 
oF Aiinrisy the’ ancl 
fertile ‘plains off 097, 31 m0, 


‘tan fe most 3a te te ‘the, ile 
‘of tho Raat, |. 808; i, 289 
M1, 983 





ir 
issn 
rs tt i 
man Emperor, ths V7, 
» the “Aruban Mo= 


Halk slo of parade bate LIBEN, 


AD 
the residence of, i. 302 
Han, the children of ‘asi, ‘263, 


Hiss, town and provlace of 100, 


iain, Br Jase Wrtog of 
Hauuiba's pasmage of the Ap, 1. 


‘Hawy, the town of, 


wie i iu 
Harbours of 

Pay ts pri indule, 
cand. resourees, 1. 210, 
Sse Se 





INDEX. 


of the, 1. Bib aii. 306 


cleat object und 
“Tea Geo, Ob, 100, 
Jato Roglish, and’ he 


150:—1 


ceremony 
nouncement at 
480:—its official 
for an account of ite Tuan ia 
Hespt, te Mshammed Ai 
Han of Teveatere, ta ob 
ations lease, 
fastovemt (ee 


Mehamoet 8,65 ie 109 
Hawks of Ezypt and Nubiny U. 204, 


ayy A. oe of seal is phi- 


Mean Arty ier nereetssl io the, ti, 


sick, 4. 9 70, 73, 105, 
M4; 35, 360, 
diay oo to 00, 


Heath et ‘ton ity (#00 Sere, 
soem 
oe he endaton of (oe Mirage), 

eh 5 a and 


See 


Costumes 431 
Vi. 989, QOK:—Kgyptinn task-mas-_ 





ty of Horns," sity 
i ay 


Merge of the Ancent aie 
Pharwohs}, ih 9 


Fat 


U. iH, 425, 556 
| zo a5 251,317, 405, 40, 





INDEX. aly 






tod Greek. e4Rd:— | Moly Writ, ite truth enuflrmed 
Sresieny "of tke tabes of, ee ae LB ate 
Hituna'gian the long knife worn by euge in the East 3,15, 128 
the Bolovcen Arabs, Ui. 257,274 | Heoucy ite aweets,. bes and 
eanahyi 120; A280 to 285 | court; the f the 
abt thought in a 
nies ‘country, Le I 7, a, fe, 
los ad (ace My- 
Ny 
is, 3, 
40s, 518) 
055, 556, 
Higaity (er 
204 ;— study, 
318, 408 Aesteelion oe 
a Chih ihe 003,” | Htorcs ot the ans 100, 24 to 240 
 HHigh Places," 348, 202 = 
High Rock Ia Nabia (see Digebel | — of Nog or Negd'gia, ln Arabi, 
r), th. 470 2—mementos of tra~ and the: ly 
‘nt, i 680. 0 A re, m5, A 
bie a ip eon om — of Persia, ti. 
Hindinatahy Capte Re Ne 7 Sei perros reepetdinad 
meat a npn cin 8 
I, Dey Rabbl of the | Ho * toe Ragin rh 
Jews)” hie declaration concerniug | lnuater, 1 205 Ul. 245:— the 
Jewish toleration, ie 21 sity a hy the 
Histarieal rotords andl amogiationsy f Arb tea ‘ 
29, 47, 25, 87, 103, 160.198, 248, and to, 1. 245, 2451 
i a 250, 93, 980 1, 200, | | bowngs for, | 138, 190 
207, 289, Alto 420, 4805, | Morse-shoes of the Panty le 242 
Beha oe ame | Magnet ca ora 
561,078, 000, 008,021, 22, 5 


Ps 
ae ees 
‘he Oreks, tho Pamisbor” af te 
Hodges, Coenen Brith the sito of, i. 87; ii. 495, 


(see 
Yo strangers, 1. 226; il, 


i 
i 
: 
i 


| 
a 





mes of the Mohammedans, , th. 229 
state and ode Housclew wanderer, 920 t 
eae) re 17, 120, 8b 270 
oe ‘Jerusalem ), L327 {Sudwa, the, ti. 889:—theapper~ 
am Mie Ba. | aren 
mals of Ue, le 208, 907 Mumai'Sgob 101,270 


alyi INDEX. 


 Mowty" the Beyptian, lt, 397 
an 
oe vanity of |. Mt 
5 yi 230, 206, 908, (oe BTomnan 


rr re 
1.246 to'270, 20, 420) He 2134 200, 


‘his parentage, 
thas, and covenmnd,1. 1955 1108) 





109, 182, 100, 101:—his early pre- 
amusements, 


{ 10, 171: — julideations and 


of 
ii, 109, 189:— 


Mohammed 
‘at Castle 


attack on the 


Bp, te17a poly und gover 
i. ira, 108 tina 
tion in whieh be fs held 
ii, 65, 172 


and 
salty tasdlgenve’ mad spite ot 
Seely b Al Sid 80 whieh 


ho Us bold by Mohammed AM, |. 416, 
419, 459; U, 95, 1792—bis desoent: 
14305 Uh 0, 181, 189 : 
sy edenins wi the Arb Sehtths 
at lastratic talent 
Saaaey Gonna 175, 181: 
—Interview with the Carmelite 


m 
field, 

108, 

and 

428; ii, 174, 120-—his 

of loyalty and liberty, contempt for * 





a: 


REEF 
pe 
apis 
= 
Beis He 


i 
Hl 
f 


Hi 





Tmprovvisatrict 
Incantations, 





xviii 


Ancient Egyptians with, il. 441, 

Talia and P. ia, ancient Egyptian 
invasion of, ii. 499 

., travelling in, ii. 588, 587 :—the 
sacred colour of, i. 208 
of, ii. 398, 587 

Indian temples and pagodas, their 
resemblance to those of Egypt, ii. 





















239 
— com, i. 189; ii. 263, 264, 875, 
388, 453 
Indians, Ancient, ii. 281 
Indigo plantations, ti. 368, 571 
Tadoleace, i210; 1. O14 


Industry and free labour, i. 460, 490, 
571, 636 

Infancy, i. 111, 211 ; ii. 225 

Infidelity in religion (see Sceptic), i. 
86 ; ii, 164, 220, 401, 413 

— in woman (see Marriage), i. 228 ; 
i, 88, 231, 335 

“ Inglitz (see English), ti, 448, 607 

Ink and reed-case of the East, i. 97,594 

Innocence, ii. 225, 

Tans of the East (see Khans) 

Ingulsition, history of the, ii. 104 

Tasane, the, j. 392, 337, 339 

Inscriptions on the Rosetta stone, i. 
175 

—at the Pyramids of Ghizeh, ii. 
277, 202 

— on the Sphinx Colossus, fi. 298 

— at the Bab El Nass’r, at Cairo, il. 
577 

—at the great Metropolitan ceme- 
terles, li. 924 

— at the Saracens’ tombs, fi. 921 

8, furniture, &e., i 








— at the Mokattam caverns, ii. 866 

— on the “Bitting” Colossi at 
‘Thebes, li. 549 

— on the fallen statue of Rameses, 
11. 550 

— at Hh’adg’r Bileilfs, 11, 439 

— at Koom Ombos, Ii. 520 

— at the Pass of Anis and Sycne,ii. 
450 

— at Blephantina, ii. 518 

=— at Philoe, ii. 604, 505 

— Kalabshich, il, 493, 634 

— at Dake, ii. 487 

—at Dehr, Ii. 484 

—at the “Written ” Mountains of 
‘Arabia, ii, 579, 005 

Tcts 1 0, 111, 1005 i984 

Ignia of royalty, il. 619, 520 

Touitey of human affairs, {. 85,100, 
948, 365,381 ; 11. 378, 414, 657 














Castes” 


INDEX. 


+ Intemperance, 1. 210, 212, 508; li. 
1 216, 242 
Intercourse of nations, benefits arising 
frown the, ii. 165 :—of rich and poor 
in civilized countries, advantages to 
be derived from the, ii. 13, 
j Interpreters of the East, i 97,99, 352 ; 
Hi, 192, 214, 221 
Invocation, if. 369 
Tonian Islands, the, ii. 207 
| Iron mines of Mergibah, Shoair, and 
Zalilé, in Syria, i. 121; ii. 209) 
Irrigation, i. 170, 189, $85, 387, 403, 
500 ; ii. 62, 97, 382, 385, 388, 573, 
01, 602 











Ismendes (see Osymandias), ii. 424 

Tahmae, the son of Hager or Agar, i 
578 

Isis (see Mythology and Temples), ii. 
201, 420, 421, 428, 435, 450, 464, 
495, 498, 501, 504, 553, 560:— 
‘worshipped by women as the God- 
dess of Life and Increase, ii, 523 
—physiognomy and head-dress of, 
4. 506, 508, 509, 523, 565 :—Quadri- 
frons, ii. 395, 468, 501, 503, 508, 
509 

— and Osiris, amours of, ii, 398 

— and Ammon, priests of (see 
Egyptians, Ancient), ii. 546 

Tskenderoon, the port of Aleppo, i. 
193 :—marshes of, ii, 198, 203 

— Buy, prevailing winds and an- 
chorage, ii, 203 

Ielam, Champions of, i. 355 

Islamism, i. 68, 192, 265, 285, 944; 
fi, 398:—its tenets compared with 
those of Christianity, i. 967:—de- 
cline of, 1. $49, 355, 358, 455 ; Hl 44, 

37, 140, 157, 100 

Islanders, Arab estimation of, i. 371 

Ismael Pascha, son of Mohammed 
Ali, his palace at Cairo, il, 265, 962 
—his important marriage and em- 
bassy to the Porte, ii. 128 :— expe- 
dition to Sennaar, Shendy, and Cor- 




















dofan, i. 419; ii, 631 :—his assasel- 
nation and place of interment, i. 
419 ; ii, 129, 323 


Ismencles or S’mendes (see Pharaohs), 
H, 389, 991, 556 

Teracl in’ Egypt (see Captivity, also 
Hebrews), ti. 982, 567 :—Judges 
and kings of, ii. 600 

Toraelites, wanderings of the, i. 108 





ests or 
of, th. 


Fvoryy th 442) 450, 407, 693 


FS 
lite 
i 





ATE i! ena le By 
ae athe afi. il 


3s 5 2 = ee i ie i 


is 
el iat : 
H gall a HE i ie 


ae 


edggels 


INDEX. 


ane of the Prophets eon 
~ th eit hye 


Jewt of Northern Attia their num: 


plone a 


Foes 
lure of 


spi 


owing 
ces nich ant ‘ately 


Tob he Baar 


vayethee marands an humilistion 
1. 928 


to his 


ceetecereoaiiree of, 1. 38 
“taeunt ee sen ; 


4, 576 to O80 
fam Tor to Hor and Moant 
Elnai or D'gebel Mousa, 


=e aay a Wait. 
Bua, ancl Calo 078 00.860 


Journey from Mount Sinai to Hebron, 
481 


ea st state of, i, 108, 285 
‘Preseat state of, i, = 
‘its invasion ituw and Ve 

al. Ieee von by Sak 





i, tome of the (se Clr, te 


i. 678 
Low 





i 


if 


and 
to~ 
T= 
and 


ve 


i 
F 
I 
; 
' 


: 
5 
i 
4 


ne 
i 


: 
af 


Sy 





1. 25, 80, BL 

(130, 138); i. 63, 230, 

Finger atten responsibilty, and 
ja an 

‘stato, ux set forth in Holy 

Writ, Il. 618 to 61b:— thoir power 


Kohl, Be penciled, 1785 ih, 235 
Koom el Dékkeh, a suburb of Alex- 
sndris, | 112 
Ombos, the Temple of Sevbk- 
519 i= tank and court for 
Hi, Gill: — 
of Iain at, fi. 519; — the 
of, Hi. 435 
Koorban Mairam, festival of, il. B8, 
619, 020 


in Nubia, the mini 
fl ma 400 — 
ty i 





Lake Etko, 4. 140, 152 
—— Menzalah, 1. 140; 1. 600 
4.110, 140, 160, 949, 
janetion with 


Land, tenure of (ere Turkey), i. 88:— 
measurement of (see Weights und 


Languages In Egypt, §. 192 
sae Gsm and Askalony i 387,98 
308, 390, 
—_ . formerly Hi, BM." 
Ayres i aes. 
}, the Port of, i. 





(we 


i» L197, 100 
and other sacred animals 


2 


Hf i 


Apes 


4.920 
yh 997 
40, 185 


i. 008 
tho ass of, 1.270 


sik! 


é 

i: 
4 
\ 


E34 
thine 
Tiluwa tn 





INDEX. 


‘Mahabdle onroms and eryrtal moun- 
tains, li, 876 to 370: —eroeodile 
Mahmoud, "ths. fata, Roxperoe (oe 
Sultan). 
Maboudleh morte 
4.165 1 60 
Mat A Amin Beloved of Ammon i 


208, 
Malatia, Ix hot countries, 
sain zemedy, i, ak 
ah Cae im Canin, ii.208 
Raphael, * Modern King of 
Sie inctactianr ator 
fand thot of his fatally in Syria, il. 


prey ee S10 49, 402 


‘Maas and species of barge, 
e108, 9405 Tk 600 


‘MeCnul, the Rev. Dr, ii, 61 
‘Macedonian i, 202 


Metin n yp 275, 408 Its 
porve, mannfae- 


to commeres, 

fies; and tho Arty. 167, 

Mon 1st ie 82 
Soy Baty 


Nectual, ed 
of (se Noorormancers), |. condition, 1. 907 
psy Superstitions), ri toy. i. 268, 1,016,417, 68 
ritnal commun} 
——“ Mirror of Ink," or  Durb et 
Mandel,” ii, 42 
ry the (are Authorities), Ul. 





‘Mandolina, the, Ii, 242 
Eimer pom oe 
famfalonits its. trule, 
tins, and Tnabitansy te 241, 976, 





Maninog (20 1 ti 
= poten eerie 


‘thom, Hi. G00 
apes ets = i 
4 }, 510} ih, 5B, 2165; 


among the 
Arabs, {. 224 —-eormonies, 1. 224 ; 
Al, 240 —fenses. 





220 
Memaoa, the Divino,"—Mo or Mab 
vin (se8 


or 
‘Uhe Great, |, #12, 415, 425, 
Bab, bal to Sette the “4 
poieeey te, 





Iwi 
—bibileal notice of, {1-360;—modern 
Jahabitants and condition, ti, 671 to 


aslo, wordy of (oes Mythology), 


(eee Com 

nao Ne iu 310,390, 

Pernt orhstey tour oppo 
tition to beropen tanataion 

=o Gee My 


coe yr Na i 


iS Bat ay tan oe g 


‘and Nubia (400 
limes Fisament, be), 1.549, 


180, 133, 425, 440 
Joe ga 173, 174," 191, 217, 341, 
Sheet risiter, 1 190) 481, 44h; 
ae (#e Government 

Schools). 
Dili aU (ae National Oxard), 


Mill-stones of the Arabs, it, 890 
‘Mons. de, formerly Preach 


io 8 
eit aa, 2, 0m, 87, 
jMibrium between, 
io a at 
AMinidb, sts mosques, quay, and mar- 


‘Ministry of our Saviour vy earth, 
oe tgyplian eR 





INDEX, 


Mint 1,951,308, 400: 
it fees te pote 


<eneaa ates 
Seats oh aoe Tap ghme 


labours in ‘he Lavan, 1 8, 994; 
4 144, 100, 346, 6115 ames 
thelr influence wi 


he)» 

Missohengt, alto 81 

Mia’, tho wr of the World” 
i Ei 1s Ent Sin of, 


i ele {wee Poatht), i. 9485 
Mis'raim, the grandson. of Noah, i, 
wie i Apis oy 
Mace op Apt (oe Mythology) 


‘and te, fe 0s, a rs 

ae reed (ace Pharaohs), . 
‘Moe, the ancient eanal of, i 800. 
‘Mohammed the 


lomcendanta 
=e a prince of onlay oto 


rtd ‘Aboo D’Hahab, tower of, i 


“pein te Casnety teas 





eke a 


wilt glawiiis 


ale 


it 
ite fist) zy 5 


ene a i 


gat 





eae oF 


pele 
ce 


Hii eee 


ide 
ea 


auile 





: 


: 


Eee 


arin 17,421, 426, 
417, 421, a 
79, 106, 118, 117, 137, 
ec waging war th, 
‘war 

in ; his descent. upon Acre, 
‘confirmation of bis tn Syria, 
A. 409, 421, 424; Re yee ine 


i 


Commodore Napier (see Tribute), ti, 
119, 114, 120, 121 yells tribute and 
ident L164 i 38 OT, 
lebt, i. 196 5 , 
Sots tors tlhe with 
Bedoneena, and withholds the sup 
plies from the Holy Cities, 80 ax to 
‘cause a revolt and, 


LSyPPEETE 
ie Be 


E 





cease 
136 —future plaas and new policy ; 





1105 
S| =a 
“ia nea the fa 
Jy the 


as ee Ve 


ay 


Se 


eG ae 
ia ESB 





INDEX 


Dammedan), tt 400, 448, 009, 028, 
— Prine, cbarseter of the, Us O12 


i a 
“ews 33 12, 
Bed: i. B1F, 800, B08, 430 


1.340,417, 4495 Hh 94, 188 
‘Moni iceenrs asban' er uate 


Mount Cia tn Sande, to Soni 
tories, summit, and elevation, 
199, 300 


— Taurus in Asia Minor, 3, 154 
Morita, ‘of maat-house, & 286, 994, 


Motrin in he Hs 391 30 


‘Mullet (see Pisherios), 11. 
Munim 


Hi, 208, 208, 413, 

‘ey tab, a ra é 
Mame, powdered 300 

wire re 

necklaces, i 4 : 

Mugater, Bari of (the late), . 271, 

‘Murud Boy, 4. 198, 250 t0 2505 i 

36 ile pain i 


Murat, the French Genoral, 1. 957 
Muses of anil 19 rpes = 


nee ees 
wie, 158125, 90, 68 rae 


pare 
Mosicallustruauentey atiaa 
‘sed fa the days of the Phiracks, i 
‘Musaiulmaun (4ce Moulera, and Mobam-= 
moedan 


Wee (we ‘Pharaohs, StL, 
oe 


il Notloes :— 
of the Grevks and Ro- 
‘sng, 1h, 298, 000 





“Sayin 


‘tans, i. a7, 318; Ul, 268, 271, 
304, 410 


supposedt to it 
traction, ienteal with the 
of the Abydos Triad, i, 53 


glcidetsrse’s 
5 ut an 


uf 








‘Mythological Noticos—(continued 
tnunelation and mooie 
of the Nile, fl, 208, 495, 923, 


or 
Ram, they lie 432, 509, 204 
‘Seca iyo Se nents: 
fe 


nette, Hl. 200, 308 
i la, or * sentry of 


498, 
Crosier, oF Sacred Tau, the “wis 
‘he world,” 





‘Naulir, Gchals of Pera, f, 102; H-20 : 
fb 243 i 


on 
106, ie 155, 175. 
Narcotics, tt. 461, 007,598 
Nareghi'-l¢h, or Hookiity, 11. 4 
Nasakobi, or Persian 


Ih 
56 £ 


sweetness, 
204, 3907 1. 267 
‘and Art, 


re {, 198 to 196, 2755 





eee #41! ite ae 
1 
Fags! 
on 
S288 a 
ne 


ain 
jee! 


L146, 257 
at 


Nelson's Pilot, i. O1, 80 


(see Formament), 1, 


1h 900-—osttmarion 
a 


i 
. 
i 


‘the Rev. il. 44, 617, 
319, "243, 
‘ot te " 


= 


: gc? 
helinenane tint 


z 


unto), bt 


New 
Rico! 





‘Nilus, the 
Binevelh, Ni 


rom 
Mahan thar, the over of the, 1 
fat jon Queen (ae Chronology), i. 


kn Die hey 18 370,30, 
01, 905, 417, 4335 il. SE 
‘No-Ammon, the ancient city of; tts 


God, th. 640 
's denunciation of, i 
cof the king of, 


1. G21 to 663 ¢— panora- 
‘from the Alexandrian 


4 
ieemutions OF (ue Rocks 5, 





bantasde hele 


‘women, thelr charscter and oo- 
upttions 241, 490, 446, 483, 


— children, 11.486 
wae UL Ht, 407, 482, 400, 500, 


swimmers; thelr 
the Nile, i. 610511 
Numundd, the, (ee Defter Khineh), 


N I. 
ener Idd, 246, 973, 355, 





INDEX. Ixy 


Pein an of Ife by, i. 
semeriny te 141, 258, 207, 
thts 


bil to 


rs 
fete Gree Mirage), 1. 103; 


ote Ahab and 


Bal 


s 
Oriental Steam Navigation 
1 09, 128,929, 001 (ace Tndin, 
aad Journey to 
Oriental trading, 1. 9005 i, 190 
— cath, and profoe- 





cee 
Hat 


and 
it Wi j Pemotes; 
arcs and Secale wa to 





pEee 


i 


P 
Padma Devt, the Hindoo goddess, i 


i 


Pate Michaélis, & Prior of St. Joan. 
a 080, 


Padre Thomaso ; mysterious dissp- 
nrance of 33 


Pagaism, i, 98, 257, 37,414,430, 
483, a7, 
saisunceeae 
inti, be 243 ae 
b, oF Phillstia, 
‘B01. E Pal the “land of 
eegiteegafen ns, | Picante Sees 
480, 497, 616, 537, Palestine, Asia Minor, Turkey, 
Ue" 136, 480, ‘ke. 5 Author’ zoute in, fi. 610 
Palatine, tho Protostant Bishop ef 
cmbarkation (ee ‘Jerusalem, th, 
Pala Date), ti, 988, 968; — 
Si ea anh een ot, 








od 


‘of the Ancients, Hi. 360, 410, ‘costume, il. 431 
608 Foy, fader gamete, 1 303 

PP Gg) te bey Oode rouge aad Clete 

titer eticlea manalactared from, 80, 


, the 360 
ee 220, 334, 


gies meh 





Moka (eee Hb'ad’ 
5,07 ‘oo wr 


i 


of Eegpt - 185,300; W381, 
Mire Hemmament) By 203, $08 
1, ee 2 


4 


a 





Pp soeeotes 171 5 M961, B, 816, 


20, 
bea) 1. 210; 11, 801, 968, 989, 
0 ng cos 





INDEX. 
buse of; ie 79, 0, 103, 210: — the 
Cr a 

Sater ashen, ie 198, 5735 
to Upper 


"ail tre 19,1 San ino, a8, 


$a 14 1 


clans teens ce Mythology), 
Prickly Heat, ita enue and romedy, 





1 
— lainh, 1, 88, 243, 963, Hi, 163, 








Gere e Deets (see Memnonium) 
Qh’ouruuh, or Gh'oomoo, a district 
‘of Thebes, ti. 409 - 


tha, 1 31, 
Sit, bevuty, and, soln 3 
U0, "R25, "2to, "20m, 380, 800; 


Ghizeh or D'gizoh ; their 
thelr tramnen- 








5S 
8 


pty i, 190, 


130, £04, 
are} 


‘Sik Sent aed 
hai 


Li Ge ora 


Thedil 


Raunesos T1I., it 
—bin identi 
20; a 


i 


Exypt, b. 180, 154, 304, 


Lazagays! 
> '¢. 


1 winds their 
Meets, 
Tour, Nl. 90, 36, 151, 
thongs worn 
Nubian women, 
ilk, and 


AY 
ean 


ye 
inh : 


ifs a 
aaihl 


‘Rabbins of the 





wheats 


nee 8 


Alpe tp ade 
sim at alc 

our, At U, 803 -— 

— example 


11, 208: =the executions at, 
Relation, divine 16, 404 ; 1.28, 
Revenue in 


AM (see Finance! and ‘Taxution), 
49, 181, 2015 87, 116, 134, 


a Et aerog the, 1 408 


— of the ancient jane ; means 
haere te ‘be formed 


Palestine, 1 lo} 18 





or hod, 1 56, 
ier Epermcestiana at (ore Jews), 


taae sit rat 1. 180, 180 5 
‘Rice, cultivation of, i. 127, 005 
Rice-mills, Mohaunined Ali's, ti, 607 
Rich, in despotic jus 
‘of tho, 198, 412, 498 ; ii. 
wie 310, 211 587 


var de Lon, and the Sara 
meen cht, 28 


mona S053 es ats, 
bersoas 


48}, 491, 605, 506, 


ro 
{tise vicersy) | Z 
= eee erie ‘Shemalok!” 5. 62, 


Rings fur the toes, fingers, ankles, ears, 
pit and nose (see Ornaments), Ul 444, 


ann HES aay 
Hua Phacha, ticle of stato a the 


thers of the Bart, 1,203, 319 
‘iat, 208, 


an ae 283, 
noah coat, 087 440, soe” 

ii‘a7y, oT, 8, 40, 
bar wire 


tpnek ett Chain,” jl. 490, 529 
“Rock of Miribab,” or “ Rock of 
Moses," at ‘Mount Horeb, 11. 679 
Rockham, the, a species of vulture, ii. 


Rocks of eet Hi 454, 
“33, 216, Ths, 500, hay 300 





INDEX. 


Romance, 379) 

Bonu Catholen, (owe Conrents and 
Maronite), j.'884) Un 23, git, 
epi eto and fall of, tt. 

eatery | 300 i, 900,448 8 

hee dit, 442, 438, 406, 


5 ebateanx 
Famke ts oy 





Ixxiii 
Sack-eloth and sit vt 
Peli a 
Hewes satel meals (uot Myibology), Ue 
Boxed Ask (see Mythology), ll, 563, 
er ere ame aera 


ii. 586 10. 
factitens of the cl Fathers, 11. 498 
mo 408, 065 


the 
‘St. ie ag 


of Alexandsla 
ih 49) 8, — 
Pant, 


hile Wirth=plaee, family, em= 
borkation and mission, i190, 201 
his mihlstey: 


Bring ad aes 
1, 208 





INDEX. 


HE 


ef 
Tes 


Alcikoom " (see Arnb Salu- 
10s, 00), 


if 


iu 


Cor- 
800, 


of Bankers of the East, their 
70000188 
setae Cie of the, tl. 

— orchiteetars, il. 92% 
— nqoeduat at Cairo, tt, 250, 264, 
144 04 215,277, 


364 
‘Saracens, the, 

‘907, 441, GT: — 
aetkat of Lau a aa 
Sa of the Ancients (see Tem. 


and the mystic ball (see 
Mythology), ii 626 





LS 


S28 


| 
ae 


‘Sch its Gal rama fo a 
ae 

the ‘of, Ul 100, 267, 

‘i, 13 a, 7 





‘tins, Silltis and Sina}, 1 aa, B18, 


000, 
Selim ths 


ways a boon,t, 20% 
see thy i 6, 90, 275, 904 
Seboon, in Nabia; ee 
_—origin and porsalt 


ee, 
wernment af, il. 450, 


ie 
i 


i 





a 
champ of 


S85 
silt 
a Te 


it 


HF 
U3 


‘bazaars of, fi. 692 
‘Kings (see Hye-Kos), 1. 981, 
Mk 308, 481 :—thelr territory 


‘Sip: buildiog (see Arsenal 
igure hens, 2003 





Axxvi 


Shi 
Tends 0 


of, 1. 105; 11.527 maa 
Sidon or Salde, storming of, 1. 435; 


Hi, 204 
of Alexandria razed by the Bri- 


iby who retire to Marmorie Day, 


ere ates moans 


hk eae 
‘the river of Egypt,” tl. 285 


5 
Siksink, th, th 473 
Silla, and ancient ro 
‘uaa Fate of 105, 
Bille, cultivation of, 408; ii. 19 
40, 403) 491 


INDEX. 


300 
suilent oF Bart. 947 10.40, 
—asnarest at Calo, 40, 247, 
—— dealers or D’ ‘their eha- 
slg po 
a B53, 58, 474, 475, 477, 

‘Slaves of their 
ex of Aftios, roars eppease 


G 
Cadwick (ee Dykes), 
156 ibe {ere Dykes), |. 
Sunil pr and aeetbtiny be 1385 
pox an 105 ie 
M874, 470,488 
“ Smelling the zephyr,” a curious 
Smith Col, Sir Chetles Ye dspatehea 
from Syria, i495 
Sait, Shr Sine (thea) 1 2075 


Ly a, alay Survey), |. 8, 40 
eo Sansa, 37m S33 
sisting 388 z 
‘Soane, Bir Jobin, (the late) his muscu, 
419 


Bochis (see Pharaohs), i. 381 
Scolal and publie Intercourse, tl. 13, 
222, 225, 243, 


358 
Society in’ Burope, fe 109, 210, 292, 
70 020; 288, 327,289 





INDEX. 


Sots the oe 


seearenree: 
oT orate : 
Sete 


as 
io ih 198 
aI. 
‘staatlon, cxpal 


Solon, the Athenian law-giver, i. 194 
gorau gulf of, i. 509 


kyon epi MD 


his craolty 5 hie ene 
with Mohammed AN, it, 





nx, 
Sphinxes of Luxor, 
‘ke. (40 Crio-! We 
f(r Coenen, 


Standard taken from Mobamtned All, 
simone Lady Hester (the late), tl, 
suarvatlon (oe Famio) i 00; 189 

tn Turkey 


00,91 
suits of the Angie Greeks, 105, 


ven ia a 3; i 0, 


Store ses of the Pharaohs, 3. 00 
9575 th 288 : 


Lele of cottan, and rice (see 
7 Te roy Ey 117,193 


Storks, i 250, 
eenaies 4. 20, 187 


br 3 


‘Story of Destlemona and thy Moor, le 
ry 1171; He 200 

and of, the 

419, 506, 


merece 





Ixxviii 


Striking a bargain, i. 182, 970, 4485 


i, 74, 77 
‘Sunde, or Seleucia, th, 199 to 204 
Bublime Porte (see 


Toe ropbest dud e'Sh one 12, 
135: elnitar of toy 8b © 
Soltan Mahmoud (the Inte), his etine 
‘theter; his opposition to the “old 
and the 


“Als, SAT, 4205 fh. 79s —hin mine 
Lal epaerype ag e and 





INDEX. 


‘Sultan Abd’-ul-Mod'gid 5 his 
‘ognomy, ae d 
‘and disposition, ii. 14%, 146, 160: — 

ical H. 180, 


Sultana Kame, sisier of Sultan Selim, 
ii, 190 


Sultana Vala the royal mother, her 
and influence, |. 404 7. 
‘Sultana of ith Sultan Mahmoud, her 
Sultana of Egypt, ber cone 
fod sae, faa Baa 


era orth mea ‘4 
‘Suramory of parsing events tn 1642, tle 


—of the Pasoha's life and adven- 
‘tres, 4.411 

Bun, a (see Mythology), 
Me 138 


8 
Pees nasties Eoee it 
semait Buy14 810,98, 293 
eo Daneful effects of, it. 
“far 10m 214, 0,40 2 
143, 243, 252, 
ab to $4, 399, $10, 488, 458, 


499, O21, G44, 


atin te Cavs of, A 480. 





‘of the Const of it 
Harbours), Tan ate 
108, 168 
of Buda, ii. 204, 205 


Sybila of the Kast, 1. 216, 401 
, 1. 98, B85 Ml. 247, 
401, 468, 430 
Souan, ancient port of ; 
and present condition, 
ib 


prinyes 
ab 


(4ee Rocks), ii. 28 
fof el, Sera), cour 


ze 
Aa 
ES 


PH 


i 


! 


eee 
rf 


i 


7 


i 
; 


He 





: 
ie! 


eee 


ak 


it com 
that of the 
BB, 116, 1885 105, 187, 00, 
Syria, Asia Minor, and Palestine, 
‘einigration to, is 391, 440; 11.18,97, 
158, 161, 203, 204 = — their present 
ty wien they ‘might 
mean by wh 
i acid, 


U. 27, 3, 
3h Sa aa ae 
636':— viewed! as a mized colony t 


exertions for the 
‘tho lek and destitute, ti, 40, 150, 





Ixxx 


a and Torani Pacha), 4H. 106, 
yl, the Ou of 1.9 


Fe 
‘Tablets, anoloot, 1. 1755 li. end 
‘B08, 411, 422, 405, 4100, 550, 


‘Taboorch, 1. 270, 204, 318; He 
ee 


‘Tabor, Tambour, 

12165 i, “tn a0 

‘he th 
Taskoegeh, te 
tate Poet Aldi, the Orta- 

‘mun Admiral, hie chafoter and 

sodas 1 ae; 14, 90, 122, 140 to 
‘tata, the ere ate of, 1 078 
‘Tahtahs of 


75, 4075 He 





the birthplace of 
208:— the an= 


‘Tari Es-Shereef? vuger, plantations 
ftoid raannfactorie, 1281p he 874, 


388 
‘Taxkewusters of Kigypt (fe Authori- 
rata 1.1705 Ul, 205, 936, 401 

| Taaras, fount, £ 459; i. 134, 194, 


i widiater Muzzollim Lim a 1a, 
eeeeeee i. 82, 87, 699, 


for transporting 
produce, ngvleuttural inten 
ance and granarion, i. 


217 5 ti 58s — on slaves, 
B01} a of cet 


‘Taxegatherer, the, \I. 14, 80, 
or, Dr, W. wrth 
rom es B10, Te 


ay a 


a 
ten 1/140, 148,101, 314 
‘Tear-bottles (ace Lachrymatorics), th. 


the hair and flesh, & sign of 
seouruing, i. 33, 388 

peramienty te nuence in heald, 
‘and disease, tie 


‘Temperature at: wit Cale iro ant Alexandria, 
i. G2, 140, 250, 318, 386; it 


Giro the nracoin wind, 
Feat Malt {eee Ctlmate 
‘Temple of Solomon, 1 bas, os, 


cer) 
— desert 


ofan Ancient ~ 
Tian, i 305 U0 400 ver 





4477 

; iw Egypt, tk 03, 85, 

Tertichore, Baterpe, ant the races 
‘Teevineh, 1 261, 244 


1191; 211 
‘Teakorelis, 1. 98, 145, 259,971 5 ii 26, 








INDEX. 


‘214, 277, 385, 0 ye ma ea” — 
aga of (oe Abjdoe), | Teasslaios of the Ea 


— In the East, 1. 8, 10, 288, 281, 
ay 20409, Me ion, 28, 

in (see 
sors eb, Sos 
Norden, 


——In the pits 
16 
Fee Mile Gertle) 260,177, 
146, 900, 238, 40, 208,500 
‘Desert, 1 


and 
_ 295 be 51, 610 


Avbaaeos 6; 4.145; 500 to 507; ih 
i, 19) ‘54, 68, 455, ai, ab, 


ry racial hints o, L810, 
Maz, oy 269, 204, B21, GOO; ik, 
S16, 985,340, 407, 

461, 470, 431, 616 ob, ‘566, 509, 
OTT eotha~ 
sins of, 1. 247 10240; iss, 8, 


aves, biden, 4.26, 80; H.00,211, 
97%, 305, 417, 418, 433, 580 
Dunting, ie 808, $44, 493, 


i se ae ke.) ihe 
9, = ) 


(ve Turk 
‘nh inp 125 * 
‘Teal ‘the Madonna,” 1. 389, 385 


Srerelete oe moatens ot ora us of the 
the tsk Son 1583, 493 


‘Sen, 1. 4, 29, 
‘Tri-Linguar, or Rosetta Stone (ae 
toa of shies, Tablets, Se. 1, 175 
All 1.414, 410 1.293 {ree’ Mohs 
a, oe he ede, 911 8, 


08 the sh 
{i, 120, 165 
nelemts (ace Pha~ 





‘War, the, 
Fela ca fe 
“america, th. 508 


of the Anclous (see Delinen- 
eos) 


75,400 Lt T1810), 
‘=e as tH 


goes 


ae sa nivn , 


patie of Raropean, 1.284 j 1 
— gravity and wisdom, it 447, 497 





Ixxxiv 
1.08; Hote 

a eerie 

tes ee erin Win), Hae, 

"Chan, elty and port of, 1, 


‘Olemah of and Turkey, 1. 947, 
08, 4175 Hh 24, WO, 139, 16, 290, 


iy 
“Ur 
Gee Haren) 27,847 3 us, 


nd Intorest for money, 1.300 
th 73, 77, 84, 10 vey 


meee, 
asa» ve yi EL, 201, 249; 


val aie 24, 


eral 109, ig: 13728,20, 





Vartuon 1985 1.300 
Visits aod in the Bast (ser 
mien 3 Hi. 102, 222,920, 
vate sees ‘of the Grecks 
“avait - 906,61 
poe 1.370,004,900,618, 


Phar 400, a7, S70, aa, 


Colonel, researches 
ne ta a 


“ha 


Ww 


Waghor, Hl, Raven & Co,, Means. 
toast, ia, 00 
‘walling’! ihe dead, i. 325 to 233 

Ws) or slavesmarket at Culro, 


ii. 347 to 149 
Ws ” of the Ir 1.998 
We cal eae. 


intorproter to 
Munarmmat Af ot Cal 62, US, 
Walpole, Lady Georgiana, 1.108; li. 


Wal, Rev... wrttngy of, 1/410} 


Wet bry 49, 91, 696, 
en eb 


‘Washing, custo of, tic 221 
Vas ton 6 te dy nt 


Wt ating of 1.242; th 260 
babe males of thy, 


‘Water of the Desert (eer Mirage), li. 
509, 600 

Water melon, or Pasteh, |. 111, 190, 
214; Uh. 407, 473, 590 

Water pote, i 





INDEX. Ixxxv 


telrittanat EE d 
Winter cruising in the Levant, 1 69, 


382; 
‘Whirlwinds of the Desert, 11. 334 
Wieklle, Dr, Jolin, Rector of Latter- 


Circe 


f, lh. 300, 3D, 370, 
381, 984, 401, 019, 622 —the rising 
Chet iilesions 

fusions 

cs to 1005 208, 98 

n0e :)2 — small of, 
|. 988 5 Ui, 209, 907 —the “ty~ 

m” or sand-atorm of, th, 381, 


(eee Winds) 
‘Wild ducks, li. 272, 601 
|) — Bags his interview with 
‘the Bralunine of India, i 299 
Wikisoon, Gr Gardiner, writings of, 


Wilson, Sir Robert, writ petty 155, 200 
i Cs Wrecks on the cout of Baypty 1,147, 
‘Winds of 1, 01, 104, 208; 
436, 400, 493, 


u 

14.973, 951, 360, 184, Writings of the ancients, fl, 008 (vee 

‘BRS, GT (see Nile) ‘Tab 

or the Mediterranean, . 4, 20, | Written Mountains of Abia, i, 60% 
(see Seulptured Rocks) 

"of Mount Taurus and the Black 


i 
wine fsa aa, 4, 148, 213; = 
B43, 85 Xorxew descent upon Grosee, i, 202 





Ixxxvi 





‘YaschmAk, i, 216, 235 

Yatigh’an, ii, 216, 257 

‘Y'awer Pascha, his arrival at Alex- 
andria with Commodore Napier ; 
his rank and mission, {. 415, 448 

‘Yemen, the products of, il. 442 

Yooart, i. 213, 261 

York, the Archbishop of, ii, 159, 619 

Young, Dr. Thos. (the late) the father 
of hieroglyphice ; his researches, 1. 
175; il. 208, 548 : 
of an ancient Egyptian document 
relative to the transfer of land, ii. 
547 

‘Youssouff Pascha of Damascus, il. 
150, 154 

‘Ypsambal (see Aboo Simbal) if. 463 





his translation ' 


INDEX. 


Zz. 


Zahir, the anclent towers of, i. 441 

Zahid in Byria, ii, 110:—the iron 
mines of, 1.1215 ii. 203 

Zamburecki, or camel artillery, i. 268 

Zechariah, the tomb of, ii. 204 

Zeibecks of Asia Minor, il. 90 

Zeitoun, village of, ii. 368 

‘Zem-Zem, the “ sacred well,” il. 341 

Zephyrium Promontory, 1. 158 

Zin, the wilderness of, ii. 579 

Zion, its beauty as described by Eze 
kiel and David, i. 227 :—the favour 
of the Almighty to the people of, 
1.227 

Zoan, the site of, ii. 601 

Zodiacs ; their supposed delineation 
on the ancient Egyptian tombs and 
temples, fi.276, 306, 398, 496, 635 

“Zulfs” of the Persians, i, 301 











2 H. 8. M.S SHIP “ RATTLESNAKE.” 


and the terraces of Valetta: in vain, I stretched my 
neck over the sea, and strained my eyes to discover a 
sail upon the horizon that might possibly be propitious 
to my views. 1 walked, and looked, and lamented my 
hard fate to all I met. I questioned the sailors; I 
consulted the merchants, but always with the same 
success; I had no alternative but ¢o wait. A lover 
expecting the arrival of his mistress—one who was 
“the ocean to the river of his thoughts,”—or an un- 
happy conyict doomed to expiate his crimes upon the 
fatal tree, unless, by the end of a short respite whose 
sand was nearly run out, the expected reprieve or acquit~ 
tal should arrive, could not have gazed with more eager- 
ness over the wide expanse of the waters which bound 
the rocks of Malta, than I did. Full of expectation, 
every morning and eyening I strolled down to the ex- 
change, to ascertain if any new arrivals or departures 
were announced. Would I have gone to England, 
there were opportunities enough ; but it seemed as if 
Egypt were indeed the land of the pestilence, and that 
all communication with her had ceased. 

Almost in despair, I set off the next morning to pay 
a visit on board the “ Rattlesnake,”* and tell my 
melancholy tale to the officers. I accompanied Mr. 
Wm. Hemsley, the first master, a most worthy intelli- 
gent man, to the dock-yard, where he kindly pointed 
out and explained the mast interesting objects. At part- 
ing, he advised me not to be in too great a hurry about 
a ship, a3 it was a matter of importance, and there 
could be no doubt that something would soon turn up 
to my advantage. I thanked him for his kindness, and 


* A British sloop-of-war, on board which, through the kindness of the 
honourable Captain Bridgeman, T sailed from Corfu. She carried twenty- 
‘ight guns. 





NIX MANGIARE sTains { 3 
hailing one of the shore boats, returned to the “stairs” 


nix mangiare stairs !* 

Thad scarcely taken my leave, when my attention 
was arrested by the approach of a heavy Dutch-built 
smack of about eighty or ninety tons, making for that 
part. of the harbour where her country’s colours were 
flying, and where she presently let go her anchor close 
alongside a Dutch man-of-war brig. Any sort of 
craft under sail at that moment would have given me 
pleasure, for it was blowing pretty fresh, and the 
weather was fine, though somewhat cloudy. At first 
I felt tempted to speak with her; but after friend Hem- 
sley’s advice, I thought it best to defer it until the next 
day, notwithstanding | would willingly put to sea with 
the Dutch. 

In the morning I walked down to the Exchange 
as usual; for it had now become a habit, and I had 
almost given up the idea of getting to Alexandria 
by a direct course; when, what was my surprise, to 
see the Dutchman posted in large and legible cha- 
racters, “Mynheer Yon ——,” no matter what! ‘“ar- 
rived yesterday from Amsterdam—to proceed in a few 
days to Alexandria!” It was new life to me! Down 
stairs I went—'spite of “mangiare” and the beggars, 
and without consulting Hemsley. Ho! for the Dutch- 
man !—I jumped into a boat, and in a few seconds, came 
on board. Mynheer was very busy and very civil ; 
gave me a taste of his “schedam,” which was very 


* Those who aro acquainted with Malta have thus designated the landing- 
plnce, in consequence of the Ianguage employed by the beggars who crowd 
‘about the spot, to the infinite annoyance of the unfortunat: passengers, who 
fare compelled to pass up the almost interminable steps, puraued by there fume 
portunate Individuals, who range themselves ou either side, and keep up an 
Incomant din to the tane of * Payor miserub uomo! Signor! manginre—ulx 
‘manginro! nix mangiare, Sirt six weeks !!" 

n2 





In short, 
and the stout gentleman would “no nonsense 
as say, * 

about him!" To tell the truth, I was quite satisfied 
with the interview: and I almost fancied myself in 
Alexandria. He referred me to his agents, and I 
began to think that J really should tread the shores of 
Africa. 


1 confess my ardour was a little damped when I dis- 
covered that Mynheer was expecting a cargo of 


This, 1 thought, was a very poor 0 5 
already suffered enough in this way at Trieste, where T 
was put off by the captain of a fine Austrian brig of 
300 tons, from day to day, for upwards of a month; 
and after all, had to drag out a miserable voyage of 
thirty-seven days, during a succession of heavy gales 
from the 8.E., which, at that season of the year, al- 
most keep the Adriatic in blockade. ‘The distance 
from Trieste to Corfi is only 500 miles. My travel- 
ling companion at the time was Captain G. M. Jone 
who had been a commander in the British navy eighteen 
years, and served under Sir Wm. Hoste on board the 
“ Amphion,” when the French held possession of 
Corfil: consequently, he must have known the Adriatic 
well. Being a great invalid, he was glad to avail him- 
self of my escort to Malta, whither he was going to 
pass the winter. His complaint necessarily made him 





SIROCCO GALE. 5 


irritable, and needed not to be aggravated by the 
absurd conduct of this Illyrian pilot. We had already 
been detained a week at Castel Nuovo, and this man 
chose to bring to within three leagues of our port, 
under a stiff “ Bora,” which had carried us above 100 
miles during the last twelve hours, and merely because 
he was afraid it would be dark before he could get up 
the Channel! Captain Jones advised him to pass the 
island altogether; “for,” said he, “the wind will chop 
round to the S.E. directly, and then you'll be all 
right 5” and down he went, and “turned in.” 
He spoke with a prophetic tongue: the wind did 
change; the sirocco again set in with great violence ; 
and after beating about for three days between the 
island of Fano and the “ Strada bianca’ on the main, 
entertained with the superstitious imprecations of the 
captain and crew, we put back to the Bay of Vallona, 
where we remained wind locked for a fortnight! 
I paid little attention, therefore, to the fragile promises 
of Mynheer and his agents. I told them I had no 
objection to take a berth when J saw that there was a 
chance of getting off; but that I should hold myself 
free to engage with any other in the meantime. To- 
wards evening, the atmosphere became obscure; it 
blew hard from the S.E., and the rain fell in torrents. 
The night was awfully dark, and the gale increased. 
The rain still fell, and the storm continued unabated 
until the middle of the next day, when it seemed to lull 
a little for a short time; but towards six o'clock, it 
raged with greater fury than ever, The ramparts were 
white with foam, and the spray was carried to an 
incredible distance ; the sea presented a most ter- 
rific and grand appearance ;—if ever it ran mountains 
and roared great guns, it was then. ‘The line-of-battle 





6 THE HEIGHTS OF VALETTA. 


ships in the harbour struck their lower yards and top- 
masts; every vessel rode with two anchors, and 
strengthened her moorings; nevertheless, much mis- 
chief was done, and a variety of accidents happened. 
Not a single boat would put out; and even for the 
next two days, those who were afloat had very little 
communication with the shore, notwithstanding the 
storm had subsided, and the atmosphere had become 
clear; moreover, the wind had changed to the N.K., 
and was moderate; but Father Neptune could not so 
easily be pacified, and it was not until the evening of 
the third day that he seemed to lay aside hie angry 
mood, At length peace was restored, and the heavens 
became serene and bright. 

After a storm comes a calm, These gales in the 
Mediterranean seldom continue long without inter- 
mission. I believe it was the following afternoon, that 
when I returned from visiting some hospital patients 
with Dr. Scott, who was at the head of the medical 
stafl, (Dr. John Davy having been called to London 
onaccount of the death of Sir Humphry,) I retired 
to my favourite spot on the ramparts, to enjoy one of 
the most interesting and delightful views that could be 
presented to the eye of man. The tranquillity of the 
atmosphere was re-established, but still there was a 
north-easterly breeze: the air was pleasantly fresh, the 
sun shone bright, and the sea looked green, except 
where, here and there, the milk-white steeds of the 
azure god were playfully gambolling. 1 was sitting on 
@ gun, enjoying a scene which I was sorry to leave; 

sentry was an intelligent man,—one, [ imagine, 
whose merit exceeded his reward ; for his demeanour 
was above the ordinary cast, and indicated something 
of rank beyond his present condition, Our conyersa- 





A SUP IN SIGHT. 7 


tion was suddenly interrupted by the appearance of the 
guard; and looking up, I caught a glimpse of a very 
beautiful ship just coming round the point at the 
mouth of the harbour, under British colours. But for 
the manner in which she shortened sail, I should have 
taken her for a sloop-of-war ; indeed, it was some time 
before I could satisfy myself to the contrary. She 
was built with a poop, and lay close to the water; and 
altogether her appearance was such, that it was nothing 
but the cautious manner of working her sails that led 
me to doubt the fact. As she drew near, it was 
evident that she carried a comparatively small number 
of hands, and that she could be no other than a mer- 
chantman of the first class; but I certainly never saw 
a finer specimen. She appeared in excellent trim, and 
swung round to her berth in a way that need not have 
shamed the British navy. It was really a pretty sight, 
and I did not think that we possessed a merchant-ship 
that could have acquitted herself so well. 

After this eulogium, the reader will be able to 
appreciate what I felt when I learned that this fine 
vessel had only to discharge a small part of her cargo, 
consisting of government stores, to wit, a long boat 
and an anchor for the “ Britannia,’® a spare bowsprit 
for a hundred-and-twenty-gun ship, a man-of-war's gig 
or two, &c.,— and then to proceed to Egypt: the rest 
of her cargo being consigued to Messrs. Briggs, Bro- 
thers and Co., for Mohammed Ali. It may easily be 
supposed the poor Dutchman was forgotten, and that 
many hours did not elapse before I was on board the 
“ Bristol, of London.” Isaac Riches, the master, was 
a tall, well-proportioned, athletic-looking man, about 
fifty years of age, with dark eyes and large eye-brows, 

#120 guns. 





8 PREPARATIONS FOR A JOURNEY. 


aruddy, healthy complexion, and an open countenance, 
I was rather preposseased in his favour, and soon made 
up my mind. He told me he should certainly sail in a 
week. 1 replied, You captains cannot always keep 
your word. You will sail, I dare say, if you are ready 
for sea, and you have a fair wind.” 1 then related to 
him how often I had been deceived by gentlemen of 
his profession, and amused him much by an account of 
my five weeks’ cruize in the Adriatic. He assured me 
that I might depend upon him, for that he had very 
little to take in; and that, having got rid of the 
government stores, he should clear immediately. I 
then engaged a passage, and begged him to he serious, 
and let me know the latest time. “If the weather is 
at all fair,” he replied, “1 shall positively sail on 
Monday morning.” 

With this I took my leave, and went forthwith to 
communicate with Mr. Hemsley, and was not a little 
pleased to find that he approved of my choice; though 
I verily believe, if he had said “no,” 1 should have 
said “ yes !”—like many others who ask the opinion of 
their friends, and take their own at last. But I was 
very glad to think that the little judgment I possessed 
in nautical matters availed me here. “ How can you 
hesitate a moment?” said he. “When I saw that 
vessel come in, and drop her anchor as she did, so 
orderly and quiet, I was astonished: I am sure the 
captain knows his business; and he seems as familiar 
with the port of Malta os if he had been many years 
pilot. You need not ask the question, my dear fellow; 
and if you wait here a whole twelvemonth, you may 
not meet with such another opportunity, until the 
* Bristol’ comes again.” I asked him how much he 
was paid for puffing the “ Bristol !” 





FRIENDLY OVERTURES.—THE HEALING ART, 9 


During the period of my stay at Malta, my inten- 
tions respecting Egypt had been spoken of in the 
circle of my acquaintance. Knowing that I should be 
engaged with the sick, and consequently exposed to 
great risks, (many of them having themselves witnessed 
the dreadful ravages of the plague in that island,)— 
remembering also the untimely end of poor Clapperton, 
who sailed, as they expressed it, on a similar expedi- 
tion, they did everything in their power to dissuade me 
from undertaking the journey. They confessed that 
they thought me rash,—that they did not admire either 
my voyage or its object; and that, if I went, they 
should never expect to see me again |—Very comfort- 
ing, truly! But it was kindly meant, and I am grate- 
ful to them for the interest they took in my behalf. 
It is certainly no joke to encounter the plague or the 
cholera, dysentery or fever, in a hot country; and the 
idea of returning home without one’s eyes is not very 
pleasant ;—but it is the province of the physician to 
encounter evils of this kind, and he onght not to 
shrink from the discharge of his duty, though disease 
appear in its most formidable shape. My determina- 
tion was fixed. I could but thank my advisers for 
their sympathy, and it was extremely gratifying to me 
to find that I was afterwards not forgotten. On more 
than one occasion, extracts from my own letters were 
shewn me in the Malta Gazette, and accounts of my 
proceedings were from time to time reported through 
the same channel, which 1 regarded as a proof that 
some value was attached to my opinions. The kind 
expressions which accompanied these reports also af- 
forded me encouragement. 

1 began now seriously to consider whether I had 
omitted to make any arrangements which might be 





10 MAL DU PAYS, 


necessary, in order to facilitate my journey. I did not 
encumber myself with much baggage; but I took care 
to lay in a good stock of tea, and to be provided with 
a block-tin cooking apparatus, so constructed as to 
inclose a spirit-lamp and a nest of cylindrical cups, a 
dark lanthorn, some well-starched gauze for mosquito- 
nets, halfa-dozen English knives and forks, a few 
spoons, writing materials, a good stock of useful 
medicines, particularly quinine, James’s powder, calo- 
mel, carbonate of soda, and tartaric acid,—some good 
bleeding lancets, thermometers, a sea-compass, maps, 
and a few trifling things to give away, such as cutlery, 
beads, and some French trinkets of inconsiderable 
value. The only thing I regretted was the want of an 
Arabic and English lexicon, which was not to be bad 
at any price. 

My friends kindly offered to forward my letters, and 
reiterated their desire to serve me to-the utmost of 
their ability. 1 gave them full eredit for the honesty 
of their intentions, and had every inducement to pro- 
ceed. Time was getting on. I know not what to 
say! Shall I attempt to describe my feelings? I will 
not. They were such as I never before experienced, 
and never may again; though I have since been con- 
scious of the like on more than one occasion. I was 
surrounded by many who kindly tendered their services, 
yet they were strangers. My dear parents, my own 
family, my tried and valued friends, who had known 
me from the cradle, were at a distance; they were 
ignorant of my projected plans. I had not seen them 
for many a long day, and [ was now about to enter 
upon a hazardous undertaking, such as they little con- 
templated, and I knew not that I should ever see them 


again! 





PILGRIMAGE TO THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. i 


Shall I say that I did not think of these things, and 
think of them deeply? Shall I say that I strove to 
conceal them, or wished to drive them from my 
memory? J cannot; for they were never absent from 
my thoughts. I seemed like one who was separated 
from everything that was dear to him upon earth; not 
estranged, for the ties of affection are indissoluble, and 
I was too sensible of what was passing in the minds of 
those whom I had left in England; yet I could not 
tell but that we had met for the last time; for I was 
about to take a most important step, the ultimate suc- 
cess of which was very doubtful. It was an era in my 
life, whatever that life might be. Some, perhaps, 
would call it banishment ; but if it were banishment, 
the penalty was self-imposed, and it was associated 
with the most pleasing anticipations. Although the 
expedition on which I was so soon to embark was not 
an expedition of emergency, it was nevertheless of 
some moment; and I knew not if I should be spared 
to aceomplish my designs. 

Tn religion 1 never was a sceptic; and still less was 
J inclined to bigotry or superstition, My imagination, 
however, had always been inflamed with a desire to 
visit the Holy Land—to walk over the ground which 
had been the scene of our blessed Saviour’s sufferings 
and ministry, and to behold the principal places re- 
ferred to in the pages of the sacred volume. But, it 
never entered my mind to conceive, that the desire 
would be gratified: and now that I was on the eve of 
my departure for Palestine and Egypt, 1 could scarcely 
believe it real. I seemed to have been in a dream; a 
host of things crowded upon my mind at once; and I 
was sensible of such a strange admixture of feelings 
that they cannot easily be imagined, and to describe 





12 ‘THE GOODNESS OF PROVIDENCE. 


them is impossible. The duty I owed to parents and 
friends was more than cancelled by the duty I owed to 
mankind and to myself. I considered that I was enter- 
ing on a pilgrimage, and that my sojourn in the land 
which gave birth to our great progenitors ought to be 
marked by acts of kindness and philanthropy. I was 
too well assured as to the condition of the people I 
was about to visit, and I knew that I must necessarily 
be exposed to various kinds of peril. I could not cal- 
culate on being so highly favoured as I have been in a 
multitude of ways, or that I should be able to escape 
the effects of those disasters which have occurred to 
others. I had no right to expect that I was destined 
to behold my fellow-creatures falling around me as I 
did, the victims of disease and want, and yet be per- 
mitted to escape myself, and still less to return home 
with an unimpaired constitution, and to find all well, 
and prosperous, and happy. I conceive, therefore, 
that no apology is necessary, for having indulged in 
these remarks ; for I should have been as insensible 
as the stones beneath my feet, if I had not felt the 
force and import of such reflections. The critie may 
smile, but I am not ashamed to confess that I did feel 
them, and deeply too; and now that all is past, 1 am 
conscious of another and still stronger emotion, which 
it is imperative in me to acknowledge: viz., a just 
sense of my obligation and gratitude to Divine Pro- 
vidence for the numerous blessings that have been 
extended towards me, and for that merciful interposi- 
tion and assistance which alone enabled me to accom- 
plish what I did, and without which, I might have 
fallen with others who perished in my sight. 

My arrangements were soon completed, and I was 
ready to embark at an hour's notice. It was Thurs- 





COMPAGNON DE VOYAGE. 13 


day, about noon; I had just returned from one of my 
usual rambles, and was sketching ‘out some maps and 
plans connected with my journey, when I was sur 
prised by a visit from Mr. Cornelius Bradford, a 
native of New York, and Consul for the United 
States at the town of Lyons in France. He stated 
that he had been travelling in Italy, and had crossed 
over from Naples to Sicily and Malta; that his origi- 
nal plan was to have returned by Marseilles direct, 
but that dining yesterday at the mess of the Rifles, the 
conversation after dinner, turned upon me and my 
proposed journey, as was said, in search of the plague. 
“1 excited their merriment,” said he, “not a little, 
when I expressed a desire to accompany you; but per- 
ceiving that I was serious, one of your friends was 
kind enough to offer me a letter of introduction.” 

Mr. Bradford was about 25 years of age. He was 
a person of gentlemanly deportment, and evidently ac- 
customed to polite society; and as he appeared to be 
aman of education, I could have no objection to him 
as a compagnon de voyage, provided his views and 
ideas corresponded with my own; but it struck me 
that he was acting on the impulse of the moment, if 
even he had not been led on by others. That he had 
no evident plan or object in view was certain; and he 
confessed that his only motive was curiosity. He was 
animated, and spoke with firmness; but still I could 
not divest myself of the idea that he had not given 
the subject that consideration which its nature and im- 
portance demanded. I was his senior ; therefore, al- 
though a stranger, I ventured to put him a litde on 
his guard; and as far as I was justified, to admonish 
him; adding that I considered a suitable companion 
always desirable in half-civilized countries, and that if 





14 MR. BRADFORD, U. 8. CONSUL: 


he had really an inclination to go, and approved of the 
course I meant to pursue, it would give me great plea- 
sure to travel in his company. I then proceeded to 
lay my plans and habits before him; I told him that I 
had a specific object, viz. medicine ; and that I might 
be detained occasionally, on that account, longer in 
one place than to him might be agreeable. I pointed 
out the route I proposed to take, and concluded by 
begging him not to decide hastily, but by all means 
tw reflect well on what he was doing; for that he would 
find travelling in the East a totally different thing from 
travelling in Europe, where every comfort and con- 
veuience are provided, and where the worst that can 
happen to one, is a damp bed, a break down, a bad 
and of a bad dinner, impressed upon him that he 
haut ue apocitlo objects whereas [had the diseases of 
the climate and other thes te induce me to put up 
with the privarins and Gificukios [might expect to 
weet with, We sei Sho showkt comtaialy mat be 
sho te prt so ovtaneae a plan aS wing Jn execution, 
den thar he chante like emaving’s te sco the Pyramids 
arotems Thohow: thet he hati & gand comstitaian, 
< not afraid of disease: bat that at all events 
have a doctor with him, so that he was better 
ycreat many; and as to privations, ther would 
sp severely fok by dim than by me.” “T do 
\ Ube,” said F, Wterrupting him; “I have been 
AO abe » before 3 you say you have not: 
wakes Wa the difference. However, I have con- 
contest uothumge Aoi yous you must judge for your- 
wtf baw qe sail in the § Bristol’ in two days; so 
it you resadve te go, you had better see the captain 
without lugi af time. Come and breakfast here to- 
morrow, aint tell me what you have decided on. We 
4 












PROPOSAL TO ACCOMPANY MB. 15 


will then talk matters over; and if Tecan be of any 
assistance to you afterwards, I shall be most happy. I 
have only a few letters to write and these plans to finish.”* 

He came according to his appointment, in the morn- 
ing. He was in high spirits, and the first words he 
uttered on entering were (I think I see him now),— 
“Well! my dear sir, I have taken a passage ; but the 
Rifles tell me I must keep you in perpetual quaran- 
tine!” [shook him warmly by the hand, and ex- 
pressed a wish that we might have a prosperous voyage, 
and find all our expectations realized. “If we do,” 
said he, * we shall be the first who ever did.” “We 
shall, sir, and we have no right to expect it; but a 
prosperous voyage we may surely anticipate; and I 
hope, a safe return. At present every thing looks 
well." Poor fellow! he did not live to come back ! 
We travelled together through Egypt, part of Nubia, 
and the Peninsula of Sinai. Leaving me at Cairo, he 
then proceeded to Jerusalem by himself, where he was 
attacked with fever; and having no one to help him, 
lingered and died. ‘The monks at the Latin Convent 
seized upon every thing he bad; hurried him to the 
grave within two hours of bis decease, and, I am in- 
formed, have since had the audacity to alter the in- 
scription upon the tomb-stone which I and two other 
travellers who knew him, erected to his memory, there- 
by making it appear that he became a Roman Catholic, 
which, however, one of the fraternity has more recently 
confessed was not the case. 

But to proceed. The period between this and our 
departure, was employed in looking among the shops 
for av Arabic dictionary and a few things that I 
recommended to his notice, particularly the calomel, 
quinine, and James’ powder, which no traveller should 





16 HOME—AND ITS ASSOCIATIONS. 


be without, The next day there was a review; and 
looking down from the ramparts, I called my com- 
panion’s attention to the “ Bristol” with her fore-top 
sail loose. “That is the sign," said I, “of our de- 
parture. Have you any wish to retract?” Cer- 
tainly not.” “ Then God be with us! It is my in- 
tention to sleep on board to-morrow night. Are you 
quite ready?” He said he was, but should not em- 
bark until early on Monday morning, having promised 
to see the “ Rifles” again. 

Sunday was devoted to farewell visits, and farewell 
views. It was not without emotion that I made the 
tour of all my favourite spots, and took my leave of 
eyery gun and every stone where I had been ac- 
customed to sit and enjoy the beautiful scenery of 
Valetta. 1 cannot say but I was melancholy; not 
that I was sensible of any sad forebodings or mis- 
givings; but it was a melancholy for which T could 
assign no cause. I was still happy, and had reason 
to be so; the whole of my wanderings in Europe had 
been prosperous. I had much, very much to be grate- 
ful for, and I hope I felt as I ought; but—(I can- 
not tell why)—still I was sad, and my heart was full. 
It seemed as if 1 had contracted an affection for Malta 
and was reluctant to leave it; and yet I looked for- 
ward with delight to my visit to Jerusalem. 1 was full 
of joy and expectation, but out of spirits. I could 
only suppose that I was home-sick. There are few 
men, at least thinking men, who undertake anything of 
importance, (especially if it involve futurity and relate 
to others as well as themselves), who are reckless or 
indifferent about the consequences. I had been fa- 
youred through life with many friends who had a claim 
upon my consideration, Above all, I had parents who 





STREETS OF MALTA. 1 


I knew, looked to me to be the comfort and support of 
their declining years. They had been ever good, and 
kind, and generous, and their anxiety on my behalf 
was unceasing. I would not willingly, therefore, have 
occasioned them uneasiness; and now that I was about 
to travel in uncivilized lands, I knew not what mischief 
might befall me; and my thoughts naturally wandered 
homewards. Perhaps then it was the recollection of 
my revered parents that rendered me thus serious ; for 
T could not be ignorant that 1 should necessarily incur 
many risks ; and I was by no means sure that I should 
returo to bless them in their old age, by the realization 
of that on which I knew their hopes of earthly happi- 
ness entirely to depend. I had no fear on my own ac~ 
count; it was for them and them alone. I had just 
been writing them a long letter. I knew what they 
would feel, and I was too well assured that if my plans 
miscarried, and I did not return, they would “ mourn 
and weep for him who was not,” and that my conduct 
“would bring down their grey hairs in sorrow to the 
grave.” 

And now, adieu to Malta!—Adieu Valetta! I de- 
scended from the terraced heights, and sought again 
my lodgings, surrounded by a host of tattered meagre 
wretches ready to earn an honest living if they could, 
without working very hard. There was no want of 
porters, and it was no easy matter to keep the famished 
Togues in sight; they seemed to yie with one another 
in agility as they sealed and descended the almost end- 
less and intricate causeways, and tripped along the 
rugged avenues, alternately abusing and abused, even 
to the verge of “Nix mangerry.”* The beggars 
seemed disposed to give me their parting blessing, 

* The streets of Malta have employed the pea of Byron. 
c 





18 MALTESE [MPORTUNITY. 


‘though they suffered me not to depart in peace; for 
they were more importunate and vociferous than ever, 
and kept up their incessant monotonous chaunt to the 
water’s edge; and when fairly afloat, it was some 
moments before the sound of their sweet voices was 
lost. I had taken pity on some of the most needy 
looking, which I suppose now excited the jealousy and 
volubility of the rest, Capt. Riches assured me that 
he should sail in the morning if the wind continued in 
the same quarter. I deposited my baggage, and then 
went once more on board the “ Rattlesnake” to take 
my final farewell of Mr. Hemsley and his brother offi- 
cers, whose kindness I have not forgotten. 

On board the “ Bristol’ I had most excellent ac- 
commodation. 1 was fortunate enough to oceupy the 
starboard state cabin aft; it was very spacious, and had 
two stern windows, besides those in the quarter galler- 
ies, and was furnished with a four-post iron bedstead, 
and every convenience suitable for a family. Bradford 
was not quite so well off, but he had no reason to com- 
plain, Besides ourselves, there were three other cabin 
passengers; viz., Mr. Sharpe, a middle-aged man, and 
his son about twenty-six, two master cotton-spinners, 
who were going to enter into the employ of the Vice- 
roy, with ten others, who were under their control, and 
also a very respectable-looking man as a master miller, 
steerage passengers. The third, who messed with us, 
was a Captain Hume, whom | afterwards found to be 
a very talented worthy man, but one whom Dame 
Fortune had treated rather roughly. He had got for- 
ward by his own merit, and at one time was enabled to 
purchase a trading vessel; but here his success failed, 
It seemed that he was a better sailor than a merchant, 
for he was unfortunate in his speculations. Having 

3 





MOHAMMED ALI AND THR CHRONOMETER. 19 


liberated himself from his difficulties, he was again 
afloat; he went on with various success, as the master 
of a ship; but at length, after having gone through a 
great deal, he was east away on the African coast, and 
lost. every thing. 1 believe from that period, he re+ 
mained without employment. Some time elapsed, 
and having a wife and family, he found it difficult to 
live, and his spirits were not the best, when a cireum- 
stance oceurred which induced him to go out to Egypt. 
Mohammed Ali being one day shown a chronometer, 
and having heard its uses explained, though he did not 
understand what was said, was shrewd enough to per- 
ceive that the instrument was one of the greatest. im- 
portance in navigation; and he made most liberal 
offers to the individual in question to induce him to 
enter his service, and teach his seamen how to use it; 
for the Egyptian Admiral, who was present, acknow- 
that he had never seen such a thing before, 
and that he knew nothing at all about it. The gentle- 
man, however, being an officer in the British navy, 
declined the honor, and explained that he was in his 
country’s service, and could not stay if he were so 
disposed. The Pascha then requested he would order 
him some from the best makers in London; but 
their use is little understood even now, and I believe 
they are not much employed by the Egyptian marine. 
Mr. Hume having been in the habit of using the 
chronometer many years, and being a scientific enter- 
prising man, was going out very strongly recommended 
by Mr. Galloway, of London, to his son, who was 
established in Egypt as an engineer.*} 

* Seo page 48. Also Vol. I1., Chap. v. 

4 Ms. Thomas Galloway, reir I should ey, Galloway De, lence ded 
and it is due t him to acknowledge, that future gencrations will bo more in= 
debted to hie oxertions for the we intone 

c 





20 EMBARKATION.—FELLOW-PASSENGERS. 


‘There was another passenger which I must not for- 
get, for though last, he certainly was not the Zeast of 
the party, viz.—a very fine English hunter, sent out as 
a present to the Pascha, I believe by the owners of the 
ship. The ship’s company, including boys, amounted 
to twenty-one, but of these, six were Maltese, just taken 
on board to supply the place of others whe had been left, 
either on account of illness or faults. The cargo was 
of a mixed character, but we had a quantity of coals 
for the Viceroy. The captain kept his word, and I 
was roused in the morning by the activity and bustle 
that prevailed, a pretty sure indication of what was 
going on. As soon as I opened the door, I received 
the captain’s salutation. He was in excellent spirits: 
for his cargo was safely stowed, the hatches closed, the 
wind fair, and he was only waiting for his papers to 
loose the ship from her moorings. These did not de- 
tain us long: and the moment they arrived the signal 
was given. 

I now began to feel anxious about Bradford ; it was 
evident the captain had no idea of being detained on 
his account. 1 was about to speak to him on the sub- 
ject, when I observed a shore-boat nearing us, and the 
object of my solicitude was in it. We had been sta- 
tioned very far up the harbour, by the dock-yard, and 
it became necessary to warp out. We passed my old 
friend, the ‘ Rattlesnake” (28 guns), the “ Revenge” 
(74), and the “ Rifleman” brig (10). The “ Britan- 
than to any other porsou of sot of persons which this despotic monarch ever Ine 
‘ited to Rgypt. Me wus most assiduous in the performance of every duty. Hie 
talents and fidelity gained for him the Pascha’s unlimited eonfidence. ‘The 
highest honours were conferred upon hina, and he bad been raised to the rank of 
Prince. His loss war universally regretted, both by the natives and by Buro~ 
peans, and his place will not be ensily suppiled. nving myself been an eye 
witness of his labours, I cannot withhold this Just tribute to his memory —Vide 
chap, xiii. 





THE “ PORTO GRANDE.”"—DEPARTURE. 21 


nia” (120), a Dutch man-of-war brig, and a large 
Russian frigate, the “ Grand Duke Michael,” which 
had been refitting, were not far off. I could easily 
perceive that the “Bristol” was observed and admired. 
She had been built for the Indian seas, measured 600 
tons, was sharp at the bows, and at first sight has even 
been taken for a sloop-of-war by naval men. The 
foresail was already loosed, and in a few minutes we 
found ourselves free from all impediments, in the 
middle of the stream. The wind was fair, the sails 
were set, and passing under the bastions, whose heavy 
guns are placed “en plein d’eau,” and are sufficient to 
take any ship to death in a quarter of an hour, the 
picturesque town of Valetta gradually diminished ; we 
reached the mouth of the “ Porto grande,” and the 
promontories and fortifications of Malta appeared in 
rapid succession. 


It was now half-past 10 o'clock a.m., and we were 
fairly under weigh. ‘There was a fresh north-westerly 
breeze, and the weather, for the season of the year, 
was good. 





CHAPTER II. 
VOYAGE TO ALEXANDRIA. 


1 man taken up my station on the poop. The scene 
around me was a very inspiring one ; and the various 
objects which flitted before my eyes, seemed like the 
creations of fancy. Many persons were assembled on 
the ramparts to witness our departure: for the entré 
or egress of a ship, at Malta, is at all times a beautiful 
sight, and to an Englishman especially; but such was 
the peculiar temper of my mind at the moment, that I 
looked on in silent admiration. I was standing at the 
elbow of Captain Riches, who himself had taken the 
helm, and there I continued gazing on the spot, as long 
as any definite object could be distinguished, The 
breeze began to freshen, and Malta soon became a 
speck upon the horizon. 

As soon as we were fairly outside, the eaptain re- 
linquished the helm to one whose steady gaze and fur- 
rowed cheek marked him for a veteran in the service ; 
and, haying cast his eye round the ship, went down 
below. The pleasures of a journey are considerably 
enhanced, I think, by the consciousness that we possess 
the good will of our companions, or of those with 
whom we must of necessity have intercourse. So per- 





THE 8£4!—A LAD oveRBoOARD! 23 


ceiving that the master was now at liberty, I ventared 
to address him, for the first time since we cleared the 
island. 

The first salutations over, I requested he would 
favor me with an account of his journey out to Malta. 
He told me that for the season of the year, all things 
considered, it had been favorable: but that they en- 
countered one very severe gale off the Bay of Biscay ; 
and that in the night, when the gale was atits height, 
a heavy sea struck the ship and swept away a very fine 
Jad from the deck. He said that, instantly, they put 
the ship about as well as they could, and made ready a 
boat without losing a moment : for although it was dark, 
and the wind howling in the shrouds, the sea running 
mountains, and roaring fearfully around them, they 
would have made an attempt to save him; that as 
the elements lulled after the fatal gust was past, they 
might have been directed to the spot by the sound of 
the poor fellow’s voice : and indeed, that it was that 
which stimulated them to try:—for though they could 
not see him, they distinctly heard him calling upon the 
mate :>—* Mr. Searson! Mr. Searson! Oh, God! 
Help! Mr. Searson!""—that these heart-rending ejacu- 
lations were repeated twice or three times, which inti- 
mated that he was not far from the ship, and that he 
was supporting himself by swimming :—that they an- 
swered him, and gave him every hope and encourage- 
ment they could :—that a man-of-war’s boat (one of 
those they were bringing out for the dock-yard) was 
immediately hoisted over the ship's side, and that three 
brave fellows were in the act of dropping into her, when 
the helmsman called out to them, to hang on for their 
lives:—and but in time :—they clung to the shrouds 
like cats—and, at the same instant, sustained a shock 





24 DESCRIPTION OF A STORM 


which would have been fatal to them all, but for the 
timely warning they had received; for a most tre- 
mendous sea broke over them, more furious than before, 
and left them all but breathless. “ For a minute,” con- 
tinued the captain, “the ship trembled in the hollow of 
the waters, and another such might have swamped us 
all ;—but the next instant, the yessel righted and rose 
upon the surf. 

“A momentary pause ensued, and the pale watery 
moon looked out from behind a cloud, but still close 
veiled by the scud which was flying rapidly before 
her, and seemed to laugh at our vain attempts to 
rescue one who had already perished in the briny 
deep. What was to be done? We no longer heard 
the voice of him we had lost ;—the sea was running 
mountains high—the boat which we intended to launch 
had been dashed to pieces—not a vestige of her re- 
mained—part of our bulwarks had been washed away, 
and the vessel groaned as she exposed her bosom to 
the infuriated element. Her timbers loudly cracked— 
the cords were strained, and every spar bent nobly to 
the wind as we lay to amid the roaring billows, which 
threatened annihilation as they came, and rolling on in 
quick succession, dashed their foaming waters even to 
the mast-head, 

“Once more we called upon the poor lad,—an awful 
momentary pause ensued :—no answer was returned, 
and the plaintive moanings of the wind stealing through 
the blocks and smaller rigging, not only mocked our 
solicitude, but for a long time, (and especially during 
those intervals when as the fury of the tempest 
subsided we had time to collect our thoughts, ) re- 
minded us of the melancholy heart-rending cries of 
him whom we were compelled to relinquish to his hap- 





IN THE BAY OP BISCAY. 26 


less fate. To have lowered another boat would have 
been madness, as, in all probability, it would have 
perished liked the last, and there was now no longer 
the same inducement. Besides, the gale began to 
freshen, and a vivid flash of lightning, followed by a 
peal of thunder, and a sudden fall of rain, reminded us 
of the situation we were in, and hinted ‘that the safety 
of the ship depended on our own forethought and ex- 
ertions. It was indeed an awful night. For a few 
hours, the gale continued to rage with unabated vio- 
lence, and it was not until after day-break, that any 
perceptible alteration could be said to take place. ‘The 
thunder, however, had cleared the air, and the rain con- 
tinued to fall. This I was not sorry for; and though 
the storm seemed to be abating, the sea still ran high. 
No further accident, however, happened. Iwas grieved, 
deeply grieved for the loss of my poor boy; but there 
was no help for it, and it was useless to repine at what 
could not be recalled; especially as we had nothing to 
reproach ourselves with. It seemed to have been de- 
signed by the Almighty; for if the man-of-war's boat 
had not been swept away as it was, the three brave 
fellows who would have tried to save the lad, might 
have perished with him. ‘The thunder was gradually 
retiring to a distance, and the clouds upon the opposite 
horizon began to break; a little blue sky was disco- 
yered, and as the sun ascended in his course towards 
the meridian, the atmosphere cleared and the gale sub- 
sided.” 

Such, as nearly as I can recollect, were the leading 
facts of the Captain’s narrative. A thousand things 
recurred to me as he proceeded; and the scenes of 
that terrible eventful night were fully developed to 
my view :—having myself been placed in situations pre- 





26 VALETTA—ITS HARBOURS AND FORTIFICATIONS, 


cisely similar to that deseribed, 1 listened with the deep- 
est interest to every word. It was the plain unvarnished 
tale of a blunt and weather-beaten sailor, who was more 
familiar with danger than etiquette, but who, notwith- 
standing his want of education, I afterwards found to 
be practically acquainted with bis profession, and to 
possess many sterling good qualities. He had been 
roughly treated in his time, and had bought his experi- 
ence very dearly; but he seemed to be a man of a feel- 
ing heart ; and the sympathy he displayed in the account 
which he had just given me enhanced him not a little 
in my good opinion, I thanked him most cordially, 
remarking that we had commenced our present journey 
under favorable auspices, and expressed a wish that its 
termination might be also favorable. Jn this I was 
joined by Bradford, who seemed in good spirits and 
appeared to enjoy himself much. 

‘There being nothing particular now to arrest my at- 
tention, I naturally began to reflect on what I had 
heard, and also to consider the beautiful scene which I 
had just left. The grand port of Valetta is situated on 
the N.E. side of the island. It is separated from 
another large harbour called Marsa Musceit, (and 
which is appropriated chiefly to those ships which are 
riding out their quarantine) by a tongue of land or pe- 
ninsular, on which the capital stands. It is terminated by 
the light-house, and fortress of St. Elmo, which serves 
to defend the entrance into both ports. On the south 
side of the Porto Grande, are two other peninsulas 
of rock, pointing towards Valetta, and having two ex- 
tensive inlets which form most excellent harbours, and 
afford an effectual shelter to our men-of-war. The 
first of these heights is crowned by the Castle of St. 
Angelo and the town of Vittorioso; on the second 





MALTA IMPREGNABLE. Pi 


stands the town of Isola or Sanglea ; and southward of 
both is that of Burmola, surrounded by the fortifiention 
of the Cotonera. Terraces, isolated forts, and points 
of observation are cut out of the solid rock, and guns 
are planted in all directions. — The houses are all built 
of stone, and have flat roofs and cisterns ; they rise one 
above another and present a solid castellated appearance, 
as if they formed a part of the rocks which overhang 
them. The approach to the harbour of Valetta, 
therefore, is truly imposing: it cannot fail to interest 
even the most indifferent and phlegmatic, and a more 
striking and picturesque view of the kind cannot possi- 
bly be selected. No ship can steal into the harbour 
of Valetta unobserved, either by night or by day.—The 
entrance is only 250 fathoms wide, and every ship must 
absolutely pass close under the fortifications, which are 
chiefly cut out of the solid rock, and rise one above the 
other from the very water's edge; sufficient to annihilate 
the most powerful naval force that could be brought 
against them; for the besiegers might as well attempt 
to blow up the heights themselves as to make the 
slightest impression on this tremendous citadel. The 
English could only take the island from the French by 
capitulation, and inconsequenceof thesuperiorityof their 
navy; and since that time, the defences of the island 
have been made still more secure. Generally speaking, 
the points towards the sea are protected by rugged and 
perpendicular rocks abounding with caves and 

some of which are very considerable, and filled with 
stalactites. One of the most interesting of these is 
near what is called Point Benhisa: it is to the S. E., 
and extepds 200 paces under ground, There are 
several bays and inlets in other parts of the coast, but 
these are only weaker by comparison; for their con- 





28 CLIMATE AND DISEASE.—THE SEASONS. 


dition has not been overlooked ; and if even the enemy 
effected a landing; they would be able to make no im- 
pression on the town of Valetta, which is equally well 
protected at the back and towards the sea: and the 
only mischief they could do, would be the destruction 
of a few ‘casals” or villages, which would never be 
worth the risk or expense. Moreover, they would be 
very glad to get away again; for unless they could be 
supplied from without, with water and provisions, all 
their resources would be cut off, and starve they must. 
Malta may then be considered impregnable, as long as 
it is in the hands of a people whose navy is superior to 
every other; but no longer. The climate of Malta is 
good; epidemic affections rarely occur ; but those who 
make too free, are liable to the Mediterranean fever. 
Bilious remittents are very troublesome here, as in 
every other warm country: but they are for the most 
part to be avoided by attention to diet, —that is, 
temperance, and by guarding against exposure to the 
dews of the night. The seasons are well marked. In 
the spring the air is sweet and temperate; the at- 
mosphere is clear and serene; the nights pure and 
delightful, the sea is calm, the clouds are dissipated, 
there is little rain, and the wind is generally in the 
North. In summer the thermometer sometimes rises 
to 95°;—but it ranges generally from 88° to 90° and 
92°. The atmosphere is brilliant by night and by day, 
and not a particle of a cloud is to be seen. In the 
heat of the day, it is very sultry ; for there is either not 
a breath of air to be felt, or what little there is, comes 
from the east. In September, a very important change 
takes place: the sky begins to be obscured, and the 
weather is more variable. The atmosphere is at times 
saturated with moisture, and often towards evening 





NORTHERLY GALES. 29 


charged with electricity: the S. and S.E. winds 
prevail ; the air is very close and oppressive; and there 
is a good deal of thunder and lightning, and even 
slight shocks of an earthquake are felt; but there are 
not generally heavy gales. 

From December to March, however, it sometimes 
blows tremendously, and the sea runs yery high. In 
stormy weather I have seen it breaking majestically over 
the ramparts, and the spray ascending to the heights, 
whilst the foaming billows beneath are lashing the 
broken crags, and roaring like a caldron. The sea is 
always agitated ; the winds are cold, and set in from 
North, N.W.—West, or N.E., with great violence. 
It is on account of the tempestuous character, and the 
prevalence of these winds, that the generality of mari- 
ners, who are bound to the eastward, first make the island 
of Candia; for if they should be caught in one of these 
terrible northerly gales, they stand a very good chance 
of being carried down on the unfriendly desert coast of 
Africa, Many ships have been lost in this way; for 
there isno place that they can run for: and destruction 
is inevitable, 1 forgot to mention, that my old friend, 
the Dutchman, sailed two days before us; whether 
with or without his expected cargo I know not; but we 
anchored first, nevertheless. Being astranger, he very 
properly steered for Candia, in order that he might 
avail himself of the gales which commonly set in, as 
just stated, from Mount Taurus and the Black Sea,— 
he would then be able to turn them to account. 
‘The difficulty and danger of departing from the 
African coast, in opposition to these northerly gales, are 
beautifully alluded to by Virgil, in the 4th book of the 
Bneid, where the Queen, finding that her lover, after 
having gained her affections, was quietly equipping his 





380 CLASSICAL REMINISCENCES. 


fleet, and that he meant to leave her to endure the 
pangs of sorrow and remorse,—perceiving that their 
loves, so well confirmed, were now to be dissolyved— 
exasperated at her neglected charms—and no longer 
able to conceal the feelings which were struggling 
within her ; but almost frantic with despair, is described 
as * roaming wildly about the city ;”” and that when she 
beheld the ships upon the shore, with sails unfurled, 
and heard the busy note of preparation, she hastily 
sought out Aineas, and thus, with soul inflamed, im- 
passionately addressed him :— And didst thou hope, 
too, perfidious traitor, to be able, by dissembling arts, 
to conceal from me this thy wicked purpose, and steal 
away in silence from my coasts? Can neither our mu- 
tual love, nor thy once plighted faith, nor the preven- 
tion of Dido’s cruel untimely death, detain thee ? Such, 
indeed, is your impatience to leave me, that you pre- 
pare your fleet even in the rigorous wintry season, and 
haste to launch into the deep amidst the roaring north 
winds !* Ah, barbarous man! what excuse can you 
plead? Suppose you were not bound for a foreign land 
and settlements unknown,—say, old Troy was still re- 
maining :—should you yet sail even for Troy on this 
tempestuous sea?” &e.f And afterwards, finding that 
all remonstrance is vain; that not even her tears, her 
sorrows, or her prayers, can avert his purpose, but that 
the hero is fully bent on departing from her and Car- 
thage,—distracted with conflicting passions, the love- 
sick Dido sends her beloved Anna, “who knew the fair 
oecasions and soft approaches to his heart,” that she 
might intercede, in suppliant terms, for her wretched 
= Quin etiam hiberno molirls sidere classem, 
x medils properns Aquilonibus ire per altum.” Snel. Lib, Ye. 1. 900. 
+ “ Troje per undosum petoretur classibus mquor ?” 72, 1. 913, 





SUGOESTIONS AND HINTS. 31 


and despairing sister. “ Wherefore, oli! wherefore 
does he stop bis unrelenting ears to my words? Whi- 
ther does he fly? Let him but grant this last favor to 
his unhappy disconsolate lover :—to defer his flight sil 
it be safe, and till the winds blow fair,” &e.* “ This 
favour I implore as the last (pity thy sister!) which, 
when he has granted, I shall send him away completely 
happy in my death I" 

I would recommend to the attention of every traveller 
the following plan of a diary, It will save him a great 
deal of trouble, and furnish an interesting record of the 
climate, wherever he may happen to be. 

Let the page be ruled, and variously subdivided, 
after the manner of a ship’s log-book. Take, for in- 
stance, the following heads :—Situation—Day—Hour— 
Sea—Wind—Weather— Atmosphere — Temperature 
—Observations—stating the year and month at the top 
of each page. 

Ido not mean that such tables are sufficient, and 
that they should supersede a more full account ; cer- 
tainly not: but it is only by such observations that we 
are able to form any thing like an estimate of atmo- 
spheric changes, climate, and passing events. The op- 
posite leaf of the sheet should be left clear, or be va~ 
riously subdivided for general remarks: and thus, if 
properly managed, we may embody the principal facts 
of a journey in small compass; and possessing such a 
document, we can easily enlarge upon them at any fu- 
ture time. I found the plan extremely useful to my- 
self: for frequently, when at sea, or otherwise so situ- 

* Quo ruit? extremum hov misers det manus amantl ; 


‘Quam mihi eum dederit curnulatum morte romittam.” 
hid. 1. 495-6, 





32 ANCIENT PORTS OF NORTHERN AFRICA. 


ated, that I had not time to make long notes, I have, 
in a few moments, filled up the day’s table. A small 
pocket thermometer may be carried for this purpose. 
Had I not adopted some such method, I believe there 
are many circumstances which I should not have noted 
down at all, and it is questionable whether they would 
subsequently have been called to mind, 

The coast of Egypt once could boast several 
flourishing ports and commercial cities. These have 
long since fallen to decay, and been abandoned to the 
wanderer of the Desert. As no allusion is made to 
them in books, and as the voyage from Malta to Alex- 
andria is likely in future to be more frequently under- 
taken than heretofore, I trust that a few words on each 
“en passant,” will be found acceptable to the classic 
and general reader, as well as to the Oriental traveller. 

Monday, Feb. 1st.—Our first day’s sailing was pros- 
perous in every respect. We soon lost sight of Malta. 
At 4 p.m. the wind shifled from N.W. to S.W., and 
afterwards to South, and we made, during the day, from 
six to seven knots an hour, The moon and stars were 
bright. 

Tuesday, Feb. 2nd.—When 1 rose in the morning 
to make my observations, 1 found that the wind had 
settled in the S.W., according to the indications of the 
preceding night: it was blowing very fresh and gusty— 
the sea was bold, and the clouds were flying low. It 
thundered and lightened a good deal at intervals, and 
there were pretty evident indications of a change. In 
the course of the afternoon, the breeze increased; the 
atmosphere looked very dirty,—it rained, and one of 
Mother Carey's chickens paid us a visit.* At nine 


* A mall bird like & diver, or wild duck, that in somotimes soon about the 
bow of tho ebip. It is very active, gonerully solitary ; and its appearance ix 
1 





WONDERS OF THE DEEP. 33 


o'clock in the evening it became squally ;—it soon 
began to blow hard, and the lightning was more vivid. 
We were running at the rate of nine and ten knots an 
hour all day. At dusk, the weather looked still more 
suspicious :—the top-gallant yards were lowered, and 
the ship made snug for the night. This was the Cap- 
tain's seventh voyage to Alexandria: and when the 
weather permitted, he made a point of steering as direct 
@ course as possible; but still he always advised 
strangers to make Candia, for reasons already men- 
tioned,—and then, taking a fresh departure, to steer 
direct for the * Arab's Tower.” 

Wednesday, Feb. 3rd.—The gale continued with- 
out intermission; at two o'clock in the morning the 
wind suddenly chopped round to the N.W., and at 
three we encountered such a heavy squall, that the 
main-top-sail was torn to shivers. We were sailing 
under the main, fore, and mizen top sails, at the time ; 
the first and last close reefed, and two reefs in the fore. 
The main-top-sail yard was lowered, and speedily 
hoisted again with a new sail close reefed. The water, 
in every direction, was one single sheet of white foam ; 
nothing could be scen distinctly, on account of the 
drifting spray ; the atmosphere looked wild and furious ; 
we shipped several heavy seas, and the whole heavens 
seemed conspired against us: the billows rolled on in 
quick succession, and threatened destruction as they 


suppored by tailors to indicate bad weather, On thls account, It hax received 
‘the name of the * Stormy Petrel.” It is found in the opon xeas at x distance 
from land, although a very small binl; and Professor Blurmenbach tlle us, in 
hile  Kloments of Natural History,” + that itis to be mot with “in the norcherm 
‘as well gs the Southern Ocean” —moreover, that the inbabitants of the 
Paroe Islands use them ne lamps : they pam a wick through their bodies, which, 
‘when lighted, barns along time, from the quantity of fat they contain.” 

+ Seo the translation from the German by Gore. Barry Cornwall has some 
beautiful lines, entitled, ** The Stormy Petrel,” in his ** Rngtish Songy, and 
‘ether Poems:” and they hare been well arranged for the piano. 

Vou. 1. D 





34 THE CHRISTIAN MARINER'S HOPE. 


came. Ingulphed in the gloomy abyss, mountains of 
“the angry flood” seemed to close upon us for ever, 
and hurry us into oblivion, But still the old ship rose, 
like a bird upon the surface, and all again went right. 
Once more we descended into the long deep furrows of 
“ eternity,” and again we rose and cut the foaming tor- 
rent, which roared in all its fury, like a lion, and 
thundered out its unrelenting rage, that we should still 
ride on “ superior.”* 

“ Now burvts the wave that from the elond impende, 

Andi swell’d with tompests on the ship descends 5 

‘White are the docks with foun the winds aloud 

Howl o'er the masts, and sing through every shroud. 


Pale, tretabling, thd, the mallore freeze with fears, 
And instant death on ev'ry wave appears.” Darou. 


But there is a Power which comforts the Christian 
mariner under every difficulty: there is a Being who 
answers to his call in the hour of need, and enables him 
to bear up against this awful warring of the elements, 
and repel their attempts to overwhelm him : there is 
One who has taught him to smile at danger, and look 
calmly upon death; for having taken the Beacon of 
Salvation for his guide, and made himself acquainted 
with its bearings, be is as true to it as to the compass 
by which he steers :—it is a beacon whose constancy 
and excellence he has often proved, and whose name 
his infant lips were taught to lisp; but it isa Power 
which he did not really estimate, until he beheld it dis- 
played inal its majesty and glory, in the solemn depths 
of the ocean.* 

As the day advanced, the gale subsided; but the 
weather still continued very bad, and the sea ran high. 
The wind remained in the same quarter, and it was 
squally and wet ; but it northed a little towards night, 
as is generally the case in the Mediterranean. 

*# Gee Pralms Lexvil, 16 to 00, evil. 29 to the end. 





MALTESE SAILORS. 35 


Mem.— The Maltese are not cowards, and they 
make very good sailors when they please, but only 
when they please; they are apt to give way to their 
natural indolence of character, and we have just had a 
specimen of it; for when it was blowing hard, and the 
men whom the captain had shipped at Malta ought to 
have been on deck, he found them very quietly gossip- 
ping below over their breakfast, as they would be during 
a calm, and when spoken to on the subject, they coolly 
replied, “ Mi bisogno mangiare, sir!” 

Thursday, Feb. 4th.—This morning, the wind was 
still N.W., but moderate; the weather more settled, 
but the sky overcast. We doubled Cape Razat during 
the night, and were not more than twenty miles out, so 
we had escaped the Gulf of Syrtis, or, as it is now 
termed, Sydra,—the terror of the ancient mariners, 
on account of its fatal currents and quicksands. It is 


spoken of in very strong language by Herodotus, 
Strabo, Diodorus Siculus, Pliny, Lucan, and others; 
all give the same account, and all agree that the 
Syrtes were the great gulfs between Carthage and 
Cyrené, on the northern coast of Africa. Apollonius 
Rhodius, after deseribing the horrors of the gulf, tells 
us, that if a ship were driven into it by the currents, 


“Thenee never crew pursued their homewnrd way.” 


On the summit of a mountain, about ten miles to 
the S.E. of Cape Razat, stands the town of Grenna, 
built, as it is believed, on the site of the ancient 
Cyrené, once eo celebrated for its knowledge, riches, 
and elegance. The situation is described as being 
beautiful, and of a totally different character and ¢li- 
mate from any other spot between Syria and Tunis. 

p2 





36 THE MAMLOK coAsT. 


‘The difference is exhibited in the hills, woods, and 
pasturage; and the whole are not only well watered, 
but the fine springs, from which the name is derived, 
are more abundant than ever, In the town, besides 
houses and monuments, are two ancient theatres, an 
amphitheatre, and a stadium. Four leagues to the E. 
of Cape Razat is the little port called Marsa Susa, 
anciently Apollonia, the port of the city of Cyrené, 

Towards evening, the wind changed to S.W., and 
the atmosphere cleared a little. There were some 
stars to be seen, and the moon; though the latter was 
not very brilliant, We had a pleasant breeze, and we 
were off Cape Derna, on the Mamlik coast, only forty 
miles from Apollonia. This district produces butter, 
wax, and wool; and these articles are exported to 
Alexandria. 

Friday, Feb. 5th—The weather was fine during 
the night, although the wind shifted to S.E., which 
was of course contrary; but as there was only a light 
breeze, we carried all sail. In the middle of the day, 
the sun shone, and we grew conscious of a warmer 
latitude. A great number of porpoises were seen 
playing about the ship; they accompanied us some 
distance, and we tried in vain to harpoon them from 
the figure-head. We were now off Port Bomba, 
Clouds gathered rapidly as the day closed, and the 
moon lay half-concealed. There was not. much wind, 
but the scud flew very fast and low. 

Saturday, Feb, 6th—This moming the weather 
was hazy and wet, the wind still S.E., and blowing 
fresh,— the sea boisterous. We doubled Cape Luco, 
After sunset, the atmosphere became yery dark; it 
rained incessantly, and looked thick and murky all 





BRILLIANCY OF THE MOON AND PLANETS. 37 


around; the sea was rough, and a heavy gale set in 
se the S.S.E., which obliged us to shorten sail and 
lay to. 

Sunday, Feb. 7th—Towards morning, the gale 
considerably increased, and was still accompanied by a 
heavy soaking rain. We shipped a great deal of 
water, and were compelled once more to shorten sail, 
Between $ and 9 a.m. we were beating in a furious 
head sea, under nothing but the main-topsail and fore- 
topmast-stay-sail, both close reefed. At 10, the at- 
mosphere, though thick, seemed disposed to clear. 
At half-past 10, the wind changed to N.W., but the 
horizon still looked wild. However, we now kept our 
course, and had the wind aft; but we were only able 
to carry the same sail as at 9 o’clock, The sun had 
not been seen for two days; but it soon began to get 
fine, and at noon we were able to make observations, 
We found ourselves off Cape El Ablem, on the Mam- 
ik coast, and about 110 miles from the land. The 
weather afterwards became moderate ; the wind con- 
tinued in the same quarter all day, and northed a little 
towards night, when the heavens appeared truly brilliant; 
the sky was of the purest blue; there was not a cloud 
to be seen in any direction. The firmament was so 
clear, that the moon and planets quite dazzled my eyes. 
Thad never credited the idea so commonly entertained, 
that the moon in hot climates is at times sufficiently 
bright to produce a weakness of sight; but I now fully 
believe that # is possible—ander certain circumstances, 
of course. We were at this time off Cape El Efabou 
Sambra, or Point Tanhoob. 

‘Monday, Feb. 8th._—The wind changed during the 
night to S. We had several squalls about sunrise, 
and clouds continued flying about all day. There was 





38 THE “ ARAB'S TOWER.” 


rather more wind than we liked; but being S.W., it 
suited us very well. 

We had been on the look out all the afternoon for 
the Arab’s Tower, which is rather a remarkable ruin, 
standing between two black hills, and in clear weather 
may be seen seven leagues off. The tower at first 
looks like a ship under sail, and marks the most eleva- 
ted point in the whole line of coast, which is perfectly 
flat and sandy, and in some parts searcely discernible; ~ 
for all that can be seen is a kind of red streak or boun- 
dary, and this is often made manifest only by the 
breakers which distinguish these shores for miles. 
There are rocks to a considerable distance out, both 
above and under water; and there is no distant land- 
mark but this, the “ Arab’s Tower !"* 

The sun had set, and it was getting dark: for there 
is very little twilight in this latitude: and the weather 
being thick, the Captain was beginning to fecl uneasy 
because he could not desery the Arab’s Tower. He 
felt persuaded that it was not far off, and Captain 
Hume thought we had already come to the eastward of 
it. It was blowing fresh, and we were making not less 
than seven and a half or eight knots an hour. He had 
taken care to keep far enough out to avoid the rocks; 
but as night was coming on, it was of importance to 
know our exact situation. He therefore shortened sail, 
and determined to have recourse to soundings, and to 
lay to for the night. Now the soundings along the 
coast all the way from Cape Luco, and indeed from 
Cape Razal, are pretty regular; and opposite to 
Abousir, (that is, the Arab’s Tower,) there are 
ninety fathoms water at about six leagues off the land ; 
but according to the survey of Captain Smyth (who is 
very high authority on this subject,) it is not prudent to 





SOUNDINGS. 39 


advance in the night or in hazy weather to less than 
twenty-five fathoms, which is equivalent to only eight 
or nine miles from shore. There is not I suppose a 
more dangerous coast in the known world, than that of 
Northern Africa, but more especially that part of it 
which lies between Cape Luco and Damietta——To 
the westward of Alexandria, the water is, generally 
speaking, deep near the land: and even within twenty 
miles of the harbour, it is so clear that the rocks may 
be seen at the depth of five and six fathoms. The 
water also loses its purple colour, and assumes a light 
blue tint; but more to the eastward, it is for the most 
part shallow: varies considerably in depth, and is very 
muddy. 

Besides the depth and colour of the water, there are 
other points worthy to be kept in mind when bearing 
up to the port of Alexandria; and these I may briefly 
allude to.en passant, as they cannot but be interesting to 
the scholar, and the man of general information; for who 
that has heard of the * Pharos” of Alexandria, which 
has been the talk of ages, will refuse to consider the 
pl for which it was erected? Alas! how many 
unfortunate individuals have been doomed to perish in 
its neighbourhood! The mariner then, in making the 
port, will do well to look out for shoal and broken water, 
and to examine the appearance of the land, which to 
the westward of Alexandria is flat, and sandy, and 
barren; there are no trees of any kind; but to the 
eastward, it is somewhat uneven and higher; the 
irregularities are chiefly sand-hills, and there are trees: 
though for some distance they consist only of palms. 

With these facts before us, it all seems plain sailing ; 
but a most careful and vigilant look out must be kept ; 
and even in laying to, it is necessary to keep the Lead 





40 IMPORTANCE OF THE LOG, 


constantly going, as well as the Log*—for the currents 
run parallel with the shore, easterly; and when the 
weather is either fresh or hazy, a person is very liable 
to be deceived. In the present instance it was both, 
but fortunately the wind was in the right quarter, viz. 
S. W.; but had it come on to blow hard from the North 
during the night, we should have been in anything but 
a pleasant situation. Captain Hume proposed to take 
advantage of our present wind ; and by a precautionary 
measure, to take a long stretch to the eastward: ‘if 
even we pass Alexandria,” said he,“ it will not be of any 
importance, and in the event of a change, we shall at 
least be on the safe side.” But Captain Riches 
thought differently; and gave it as his opinion, that if 
he did so, not only would there be nothing gained by 
it in the event of a northerly gale, but that our situation 
would then become critical :— “ because,” said he, “it 
is no easy matter to take a large ship into Alexandria 
in the night, even in moderate weather, by the central 
channel, which would be our only chance, unless we 
could by good fortune make the bay of Aboukir; and 
1 am quite sure, that whatever distress we might be in, 
no pilot would come out to us; whereas, if a northerly 
gale should come on, which T ‘am certain from the ap- 
pearance of the night, will not be the case, I should be 
able to make for the passage of the Marabout, as I 
have done before, and [ am not afraid to do it again; 
but the best course for us to pursue is, to lay to till 
daylight; and then we shall see what we are at: 
depend upon it, we shall have no ‘ Bora’ to night. So, 


* ‘Pho means by which « ship's progress is computed, and caleulations mado. 
‘The Log consists chiefly of a piece of wood attached to the end of a line, which 
hhas knots in it; +0 that the Log being cast over tho stern, it is easy to mscertain 
the ship's rote of sailing, by the Jength of line run out in a given time. 





LAYING TO FOR DAYLIGHT. 4 


now Peter,* do you get into the chains; and let me 
have the Lead.” ‘This was accordingly done, and the 
Lead cast, but it indicated nothing: for we had kept so 
far out during the late gale, that we had not yet reached 
soundings; no wonder, then, that we had lost the 
Arab’s Tower! The weather was fine; we shortened 
sail, and gently kept our course. Again, the Lead was 
thrown ; but still no soundings. At the expiration of 
half an hour, the indication was forty fathoms —then, 
thirty-five—then twenty-eight—then thirty-two—and 
80 on to twenty-six—still however nothing like land 
was to be seen; but the Captain did not think it 
prudent to venture further; he looked over the ship’s 
side, examined the appearance of the water, and having 
satisfied his mind, “ Now,” said he, “« Mr. Searson, call 
up the watch, and "bout ship!” His orders were 
quickly obeyed, and having given further directions to 
the mate, and impressed upon him the necessity of 
vigilance and strict attention to the Log, he retired to 
his berth. Every thing went on well: the weather 
did not change; we made a long fetch of about forty 
miles and returned—then another; and thus beguiled 
the time. 

At break of day, the Captain again made his ob- 
servations ; no land was to be seen. ‘The atmosphere 
was still obscured with vapour: once more the Lead was 
cast, and Peter was ordered to retain his post ; for the 
last indication was only thirty fathoms. On nearing the 
land a little, the Arab’s Tower was at length dis- 
covered: we were rather to the eastward of it, and 
nearly opposite to a round sand-bill, with apparently 
some stunted trees on its summit, and which, in very 
clear weather, may be descried at some distance : it is 

© A very active Norwegian sailor, — 





42 ANCIENT LIBYA, 


a little inland, and the red line of shore was now dis- 
tinctly visible: but the whole coast presented a most 
dreary aspect, barren and parched, and desolate. I 
shall never forget the extraordinary sensation which the 
first view of the Libyan Waste, as it appeared from the 
sea, produced on my mind: it is indescribable; but the 
impression never can be eradicated. My imagination 
had been raised, my curiosity excited. At last, I heard 
it announced that land was in sight: 1 took up my sta- 
tion at the bows, and watched and gazed till my eyes 
fairly ached. I looked again and again through the 
glass, in the hope of discovering some object that was 
purely African; but invain! There wasnot oneto be 
found, except indeed——the wilderness; and this I 
certainly had neyer seen before, It will easily then be 
imagined, that in proportion as I approached the place 
of my destination, the excitement of the voyage in- 
creased ; especially as it became necessary to distin- 
guish the broken waters of the lurking reefs from the 
snowy surge which parted from the bosom of our trusty 
bark. Both Captain Riches and his friend Hume were 
‘on the alert. The wind was still S.W. but it began 
to blow very strong, and the haziness continued. For 
several miles parallel with the coast, and about four 
miles from the shore, there is a reef of half-concealed 
rocks: and a similar reef extends all the way in a di- 
rect line to Alexandria, which, including three narrow 
openings or channels, forms the northern boundary of 
the Old Harbour—our wished-for port. We saw the 
sea dashing fearfully over them, and the spray carried 
off by the breeze ; we heard the furious roaring of the 
surf, and we knew that nothing but the prowess and 
skill of those to whom the ship was entrusted, next to 
God, could save us from destruction, the means of 





TOWER OF THE MARAROUT. 43 


which gaped upon us with open mouths, on all sides. 
It was impossible therefore to look on in senseless 
apathy, I had been up, enjoying the moon and my 
own reflections a great part of the night; and I believe 
I had not been off the deck ten minutes since the break 
of day, so desirous was I to let nothing escape me 
which referred to my first arrival in Egypt. I had 
learned a great deal from Mr. Hemsley and others, 
about the peculiarities of this coast ; I had read a great 
deal about them ; and if ever [ was insensible of its 
dangers, I now had them before my eyes. At this 
moment, I do not think there was an indifferent man in 
the ship: even the Maltese looked unusually excited, 
and seemed to feel an interest in what was doing, as if 
they had something more than common at stake. 
Peter the Norwegian was still at his post: Mr, Sear- 
son was directing his men; Captain Riches had the 
helm; and Hume, who was ever the foremost when 
any thing important was to be done, had, of his own 
accord, taken up his station in the fore yard. Nota 
sound was uttered except by the trusty Peter, who con- 
tinued to heave the Lead and announce its indications 
with an audible voice. Every one awaited orders, and 
kept his eye upon the Captain, rope in hand, ready to 
act the instant the word was given. The breeze was 
still fresh, and we were running along the coast under 
easy sail, with the Tower of the Marabout in sight: 
and this was now our land-mark, as it points out the 
situation of the Marabout channel, which resembles 
at times a boiling cauldron, The island on which it 
stands I have denominated Surf Island; for it is 
nearly surrounded by rocks and shoals for miles, and 
yet there is nota light, a buoy, or a stick of any de- 
scription, to warn the mariner of his danger. The 





44 “BREAKERS AnEAD |” 


sea was often white with curling foam, and afforded 
us intimation of their lurking position; but in very 
calm weather, the water steals here and there insi- 
diously over them; and even in winter, a few more 
deeply placed are hidden altogether from the view; 
and extending into the sea, are ten times more treach- 
erous than the rest. Such was our situation on the 
morning of the 9th. On deck all was silent as the 
grave, and every man was intent on his respective 
duty. In this way, we had proceeded about four miles, 
keeping an observing eye on the foaming white horses 
to leeward, and the Marabout Island, the object of our 
nearer approach ; when, in an instant, we were roused 
into action by the loud and startling voice of Hume ; 
—“‘ Starboard !— Starboard !— Starboard ! again !— 
Breakers ahead! Starboard !"—* And Starboard itis!” 
echoed Riches, neither confused, nor dismayed, though 
he knew that if the ship had proceeded only a few 
yards further, she must have struck. He called to his 
men, at the same time that he guided the wheel, and 
her head swung round as quietly as if she had been 
gifted with the power of locomotion. Peter, in the 
mean time, true to his charge, suffered not his attention 
to be diverted ; but still continued to heave the Lead, 
and sung out more lustily than before. The soundings 
had given no indication of shoal water: these rocks 
must therefore have been of considerable size, and 
more or less isolated; but this is often the case, and 
the danger is greater in consequence. “ All's right, 
now!” said Hume, but he still kept a steady look- 
out; and the condition of matters on deck remained 
as before. We were now in high soundings, and the 
distance began rapidly to shorten, We were nearing 
the Old Tower fast, and had an indistinct view of 





PORT EUNOSTOS. 45 


Pompey’s pillar, the most prominent land-mark of 
Alexandria; but the weather was still very hazy. 

The Old Harbour, or, as it was called by the ancients, 
“ Port Eunostos,” is inclosed by the land and town on 
the South and East, by the Marabout Island on the 
West, and on the North by a long and almost uninter- 
tupted line of shoals and reefs of rocks, which were 
never known or understood until they were surveyed by 
Captain Smyth. The distance from the Marabout 
to the Pharos Tower, at the extreme point of Alex- 
andria, is about eight miles; and there are three chan- 
nels or mouths to the port. That of the Marabout 
is the best, especially for large ships; but none can 
enter there who are not familiar with the passage, as the 
mariner has little or nothing for his guide; and let hap- 
pen what may, he could obtain no assistance. All the 
channels are narrow, and bounded by dangerous rocks 
and shoals, and equally devoid of lights or buoys. The 
central channel is that most used: but few can enter it 
without a pilot. The general custom is to fire a gun 
for a pilot, and there is seldom any difficulty in obtain- 
ing one, at least in the day-time, or in fine weather ; but 
the Arabs do not like going out in a gale of wind, un- 
Jess they are sure of being well paid,—and the English 
are sometimes obliged to help each other in conse 
quence. ‘Those who arrive in the night, generally lay 
to till day-break. The Central Channel is two miles 
and a balf to the N.E. of the Marabout Tower: its 
depth varies from five to six fathoms, and inwardly to 
ten; there is a reef on each side, The Eastern Chan- 
nel is very narrow, and is used chiefly by the Arab 
D'germs and other small craft : it is three quarters of 
a mile to the S.W. of Point Eunost; and to the 
eastward of it isa rocky bank in form of a bar, with 





46 ARAB PILOTS, 


only two or two-and-a-half fathoms ; but there is some- 
times as much as eight fathoms of water in the channel 
itself. 

Captain Riches had been so many voyages to 
Alexandria, that he said he considered himself better 
without a pilot than with one; for that he knew more 
about his own ship than any pilot could tell him. It 
was his usual practice, therefore, to enter by the Ma- 
rabout, where there are generally from four and a half 
to six fathoms of water. We continued our course ; 
and having stretched to about three quarters of a mile 
to the N.E. of the Old Tower, the bed of the channel 
distinctly showed itself, with its rocky jaws distended. 
Steering now in a more southerly direction, we pro- 
ceeded towards some rugged points of land, and came 
in full view of the banks and wells of the * Watering- 
Place.” Here were great numbers of persons assem- 
bled to gaze at us: they seemed astonished at the idea 
of our entering without a pilot, and were a motley 
group, though we could not easily distinguish their fea- 
tures. Here, too, it was that I first beheld the camel 
in his native land. We approached to within rather 
more than half a mile of them, and, by the aid of a 
glass, I could then perceive that the party consisted of 
Arabs, that is, the present race of Egyptians, with their 
hard features and swarthy countenanees, and that they 
were probably journeying to Alexandria, and had stop- 
ped here to water. 

Pompey’s Pillar, and one of the famous Needles of 
Cleopatra, were now in sight; and 1 was transported, 

id measure, at the recollection of the various 
sources of delight which awaited me, 1 called to mind 
the once boasted riches and learning of Alexandria—its 
famous port—its ships—its granaries—its temples— 





HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS. 47 


and palaces—its library—its philosophers, and, finally, 
its conquerors. 

My thouglits then recurred to the events of modern 
times, and I recollected the labours of my countrymen, 
and the heroes who had poured out their blood on the 
thirsty plains of Egypt. I remembered Nelson, and 
Abercrombie, Sir Sydney Smith, and Napoleon; and 
I pictured to myself the debarkation of the troops of 
Europe. ‘These, and a thousand other things, rushed 
across my mind in the same moment ; the one usurping 
the place of the other; but I was too well acquainted 
with the changes that had taken place, to suppose that 
this once famous port retained any traces of its former 
greatness. I suffered every feeling of romance to be 
stifled in my breast, and prepared myself for the most 
extravagant alterations, in order that I might not be 
disappointed. 

Whilst 1 was revolving these things, the ship was 
proceeding under easy sail in smooth water along the 
shore, in somewhat of a north easterly direction; and 
we had approached to within about four miles of the 
town, when my attention was arrested by the sudden 
appearance of a stout sea-boat, cutter-rigged, evidently 
making towards us, and containing two men and a boy, 
whom I soon discovered to be English. They came 
alongside as smartly as if they had been pilots; and for 
a moment, I thought perhaps they were, or that they 
belonged to the British Consulate, and that we should 
here have to surrender our papers: but I was soon un- 
deceived. A rope was handed, and one of the party 
came on board. The countenance of our captain 
brightened up; neither was Mrs. Riches an indifferent 
spectator; both went forward to meet him, and she 
was soon locked in the arms of her son. The boat 





48 ARRIVAL AT ALEXANDRIA. 


dropped astern, and was taken in tow. Congratu- 
lations having been interchanged, and a few hasty 
enquiries made, the proximity of the “ Pharos Arm,” 
and the Seraglio Point, together with the ships 
that were lying before the town, reminded them that 
they must defer all further interrogatories until the 
“ Bristol’ had selected her berth. The anchor was 
ready, and the cable up; and it only remained to de- 
termine where it would be best to ride. This, how- 
ever, was soon settled; and in twenty minutes more, 
we found ourselves safely moored in the harbour of 
Alexandria. 

Thave dwelt longer on the subject of the voyage 
than I should otherwise have done, in consideration of 
the interesting relation which exists between this coun- 
try and the Mediterranean; a relationship which is 
likely to be cemented more firmly than ever by the 
settlement of the Turco-Egyptian question, and the 
free communication with India by the Red Sea, At 
the present time especially, when important changes 
are taking place, I conceive that any accurate informa- 
tion respecting this the southern boundary of the 
Mediterranean, is of the greatest consequence; for 
it requires no very prophetic sagacity to discern that 
this will shortly become not only the high-road to 
India, Persia, and China, but that it will open the 
door to civilization in Africa, Affghaunistan, the South- 
ern Provinces of Russia, and that immense territory 
which extends between them and the Cochin Chinese, 
even to the great wall of Tartary and the Indian 
Archipelago. A moment’s reflection will convince us 
that the arm of despotism is becoming paralyzed, and 
that the wisdom of Providence is wonderfully dis- 
played in the events of the present day. The igno- 

1 





THE CURRENTS. 49 


tant conceit and bigotry of the Chinese must be broken 
down, and an inroad made into that enormous territory, 
before we can hope that the idolatry and superstition 
of the eastern world can be abolished. That it will 
be so abolished, and that Christianity will, ere long, 
obtain a footing on the shores of the Caspian, the 
Yellow, and the White Sea, I have a very strong con- 
viction ; and I believe that the Mediterranean will be 
the key to that important event. A war is always a 
dreadful thing to contemplate, but in the great changes 
of the world, it often becomes the medium of good.— 
The western harbour of Alexandria when once entered, 
is by no means a bad one. It is well sheltered on three 
sides, and the rocks which extend between the Pharos 
Point and the Marabout, a distance of eight miles, 
form an excellent break-water on the fourth, It is 
only during a northerly gale that there is a heavy swell 
in the harbour; and there is at all times plenty of 
water and a good bottom. The currents in this portion 
of the Mediterranean follow an opposite course to that 
of the sun. ‘They run, upon the average, at the rate 
of about three miles an hour, varying according to the 
weather and the season of the year. They take an 
easterly direction along the shores of Africa and Egypt, 
to the mouth of the Nile, which magnificent river 
rushes into the sea sometimes with great impetuosity. 
The currents then proceed from south to north along 
the coast of Syria, to the Gulf of Iskenderoon, where 
they wre again turned: they then run from east. to 
west, between Cyprus and the main, and keeping the 
shores of Asia Minor, meet with the currents of the 
Archipelago which come from the north; but vary 
considerably among the Greck Islands, and at length 
verge a little towards the south-west. 
Vou. 1. Ez 





50 MEDITERRANEAN WINDS. 


A few words in conclusion, on the subject of the 
winds. ‘Throughout the whole of the Levant, the 
winds are influenced a great deal at different seasons 
by the heights of Mount Taurus, in Asia Minor, and 
by the lofty pinnacles of Libanon. When within a 
few miles of shore, the wind, rushing down the ravines, 
produces what may be termed land-breezes, whilst, 
further out at sea, the éruve wind is felt, viz. that 
which blows over the summit of the mountains. Thus 
the breezes from the shore vary considerably, both 
as to their intensity, duration, and course. In the 
winter, when there is a great deal of snow, they are 
colder and stronger; but in the summer, light airs 
only are felt, if any; they extend also a yery short 
distance; they set in usually about sun-set, and con- 
tinue until sun-rise. I have already stated that I made 
atmospherical observations three times a-day. I re- 
marked that generally, let the weather be what it 
might, the wind subsided more or less about an hour 
before sun-set ; sometimes it dropped altogether. But 
it always lulled a little, and frequently changed its 
course at that time. When the tops of these moun- 
tains are covered with snow, the country in the interior 
is rendered cool. The advantage of this is particularly 
felt in Syria, where the desert plains are oppressive 
and barren; and, at least in summer, the springs dried 
up. The mountains are never without snow in winter : 
it lies on the ground during many weeks, and often to 
a considerable depth. This tempers the climate con- 
siderably ; and were it not for this, the plains of Syria 
would, at times, be scarcely habitable. Nothing can be 
more delightful than the mountainous districts in the 
summer; but in the winter, the weather is most tem- 
pestuous and bleak, In the plains, however, it is 





CLIMATE OF SYRIA, 51 


otherwise ; and the weather is so mild, that orange- 
trees, dates, and many delicate shrubs, flourish most 
luxuriantly: and this is decidedly the most healthy 
season there; for in the summer, the heats are so 
oppressive, that the consuls and merchants quit the 
shores of the Mediterranean, and reside among the 
Druse villages of Libanon. The shelving ground 
which extends between the sea and the hills, is liable 
to great humidity, for the land not being drained, there 
is always stagnant water: and the atmosphere being 
hot, the inhabitants who cannot retire to the moun- 
tains in summer and autumn, suffer severely from re- 
mittent fever, cholera, and dysentery. There is not 
much thunder either in summer or winter, especially 
in Egypt; and when it does occur, it is generally near 
the sea, and during the rainy season, which lasts, more 
or less, from November till March. During this 
period, the west and south-west winds prevail, and as 
then it sometimes pours down incessantly for hours, 
on the eastern coast, the Arabs have denominated 
them “the Fathers of Rain.” In March, the Q'brame 
seen winds begin ; they blow from the south and south- 
east, bringing with them clouds of fine dust, which 
may often be collected on the decks and rigging, 
many miles at sea. It is so subtle as to find its way 
into watches and other machinery. They constitute 
the sirocco of Italy,—the sickly season in Egypt. 
During this period, the whole atmosphere looks wild 
and lurid; the skin is hot, the tongue parched, the 
eyes suffused and blood-shot, the temples burn and 
throb, and the most distressing thirst is exporienced, 
—symptoms which are often the fore-runners of 
purulent ophthalmia, and of the most loathsome 
diseases. These winds continue, as the name im- 
BE 2 





52 METEOROLOGY OF ALEXANDRIA. 


ports, fifty days. They sometimes blow a complete 
hurricane: they last, on the average, about three days, 
and then return again after a short interval. Of 
course, the more remote from Egypt, the less severely 
they are felt ; and on the southern shores, there is but 
little sea, as the wind is blowing off the land. From 
this time until June, the cast wind may be said to 
usher in the summer. It is then extremely hot and 
sultry; headaches prevail, and solid food should be 
taken sparingly. 

There isa difference of about ten degrees between 
Alexandria and Cairo. Frequently the sea is quite 
calm, and there is scarcely a breath stirring : at other 
times, the breezes * round” the compass with the sun, 
invariably “northing” towards night. During the 
whole four-and-twenty hours not a cloud is to be seen: 
there is a brilliant blue sky, and the heavenly bodies 
dazzle the eyes. There is but a short twilight: in a 
quarter of an hour after the sun has dipped the 
horizon, it is as dark as it is likely to be. ‘The sur- 
rounding air cools rapidly, and the dew falls densely 
for a short time, and continues to drop through the 
greater part of the night. In the autumn the atmo- 
sphere is generally dry and clear, the moon and planets 
are still brilliant, and it blows hard from the west, 
and west-north-west. When the east winds prevail, 
showers are not unfrequent, and water-spouts some- 
times occur. Clouds often form suddenly and as 
suddenly disperse —thus illustrating the phenomenon 
alluded to by the Prophet Blijah.* So commonly 
does this happen, that when the Arabs see a cloud 
resting on Mount Libanon they predict rain: and 
they are tolerably correct; for a westerly breeze 


71 Rings xvill, 4246, 





HARHOURS OF REFUGE. 53 


generally springs up, and it is accompanied with 
showers. I have stated these particulars, because the 
question has often been asked, whether it is possible 
for a British feet to weather the storms to which they 
are exposed off the coasts of Syria and Egypt in the 
winter. I know that it sometimes blows very hard from 
the west and north-west directly down upon these 
coasts,—I know that the whole line of the African 
shore is flat; that there are neither land-marks, lights, 
nor buoys—that there are rocks and shoals, uncertain 
soundings, and no ports to run to in a strong northerly 
gale; I know too that there is not a single place of 
security at hand for a ship of the line to anchor in during 
the winter months. Cyprus and Candia have good ports; 
but the Bay of Aboukir® in the south, and the Gulf of 
Iskenderoon in the north, are the only places to which 
a vessel drawing more than eighteen or twenty feet 
water can hope for proper shelter: and yet it is some- 
what singular that the Pascha’s fleet, including ships of 
100 guns, have been repeatedly cruizing off Aloxandria 
and Syria in the depth of winter. In December 1832, 
the Egyptians bombarded Acria: 5000 Turks had held 
possession of it for some months against Ibrahim 
Pascha, and it was not until he had fired 40,000 shells, 
and 60,000 shot into it, that they succeeded. This," 
says Captain Fitz-Maurice, “ does not say much for 
Egyptian gunnery !"'+—Perhaps it says more, then, for 
their seamanship ; for during the whole of this period, 
the fleet under Osman Pascha and Muttus Bey, was afloat 
—vessels of every denomination, including heavily-laden 

* At this place tha battle of the Nile was fought. On the eastern side of 
Aboukir Bay, there are cight and nine fathoms of water. Se Ukewine at 
Tnkeoderoou ; but here there is not euch m sure bottom : and the ships are 


‘open to the atrong easterly gales from the 
# See Chupters ¥, and xv,; also Vol, 1. Chap. ¥. 





54 THE TURKISH AND EGYPTIAN FLEETS. 


transports, were passing and repassing between Alex- 
andria and Caiffa, —the Ottoman fleet was at the very 
same time cruizing off the coast of Karamania and the 
Greek Islands with many sick, and both armaments 
having badly regulated crews, and inexperienced, self- 
willed officers, who felt no interest in the cause in which 
they were embarked. Thus, though they always pre- 
tended to be in pursuit, and were often in sight of 
each other, they had evidently no wish to meet, and 
ingeniously contrived as much as possible, to avoid 
coming within gun-shot. Both the Sultan and Viceroy 
were duped by those who earried on the farce, and at 
length, Osman Pascha, the Egyptian Admiral, who owed 
everything to Mohammed Ali, treacherously sot off from 
Souda in Candia, on board the Brig ‘ Chaaba Gehaat,”” 
carrying with him a very considerable sum of money, 
the property of his master. I can vouch for the 
authenticity of these and other important facts. Some 
of them I have been myself an eye-witness of, and I 
am in possession of valuable documents which bear the 
strongest testimony to the rest.* I once went out to 
Let the following specimens suffice, 1 inlght extract many similar me- 
‘smoranda from the Log-book of the “ Kaffrecheyk,” 58 guns, the Aboukir,” 
84 gran, and tho * Mansouro," 104 guns, commanded at various times, by 
Coptain Prisvick, a gentleman of high character, aud many yoars an officer in 
‘the British navy. 
“ July 2th, 1892. On board the Mansoura.” 
“ We have rocelved certain intelligence that the Turkish army is nearly de- 
stroyed, and that the Snitan's fleet and ‘are tying in Seanderoon, 
‘within 100 milog of ux; yot we aro order II night, and wante timo! 
1 here enter and record my formal protest against such dastardly conduct in 


‘the Commander-in-Chief. 
(Signed) “Jou Prissicx." 


 18¢h August, 1832. On board the “ Mansoura.” 

We had been commanded to clear for action, but our floct was in no order, 
nd ail appeared indecision. —1 v. a. The Sultan's flogt aro now within five 
miles, and we are nooring cach other, but the Capoodan Pascha hag not let us 





PROTEST OF CAPTAIN PRISSICK. 55 


the “Raschid”” fifty-eight-gun frigate (which then 
hoisted Osman Pascha’s flag), to pay a visit to a patient, 
in the month of February, when it was blowing fresh. 
Twas on board a small cutter-rigged craft with a couple 
of English sailors. On reaching the vessel, which lay 
some distance outside, we witnessed one of the greatest 
scenes of confusion that could happen. She had 
“fouled” her anchor, and both officers and men were 
running and storming together without the least order 
or subordination. On leaving Syria, I sailed from Bey- 
rout late in the season, when the strong north-westerly 
gales prevail, on board a Sardinian vessel of sixty tons, 
for the Island of Cyprus. The currents set in so strong 
to the northward, that we were carried a considerable 
distance to leeward, having been enyeloped in a dirty, 
thick fog during several hours. On nearing the land, 
we found ourselves off Famagusta. Fortunately, a fresh 


know by word or signal what his intentions are, His whole conduct it to me to 
inconsistent and undecided, that T must again enter my protest ; viz. that the 
Hostile flests are now within five miles of each othor, and ovidently nearing 
fast, from their superiority of sailing, yet oo signal has been made by the 
Paschia, to inform us whether be Intends to attack or not; against which t 
hhere formally enter my protest. (Signed) Cre 


© August 19th, at daylight, the rear ships of our squacteon eight miles astorn- 
N.D. Hod the Turkish floot beon near, thoy snust have bewn destroyed before 
wo could have assisted them, At 5-90, r. . saw five of the encmy’s sail on 
the lee-bow. To my surprise and indignation the Pascha made the signal 
to tack! —Thus we have not only dumefully run away, but exposed our rear 
ships” 

On another occasion, Captain Priesick, having given hase to two Torkish 
men-of-war, Just os he wax gotting hie guns to bear mpon thor, 8 signal was 
pases tb Aten nosing, end Dawn eed Seats alles A 
sailors were quite eager to engage the enemy, It is due to Captain Prissick 
mention these tings, aud he left the serrice at last, in great disgust. 

Since writing the above, this noble-splrited, gunervus, excellent hearted 
man, has paid the debt of nature, Me returned home with an impuired cons 
ease, WADA, sek ane oo oa April, 1841, aiversally 

‘and deservedly regretted. Vide Vol. IL. Chap, v. 





56 RHODES.—CASTELLO ROSSO. 


breeze sprung up from the opposite quarter, and we 
were enabled to make up lee-way. Then doubling 
Cape Pila, we entered the Gulf of Larnica, where 
there is good anchorage.* It is about ten miles 
across: it is protected from the north by Cape Pila, 
and from the south-west by Cape Chiti; these being 
the prevalent winds during ten months of the year, and 
the only ones which bring much sea, or from which any 
thing is to be apprehended. I afterwards sailed from 
Larnica during very boisterous weather, on board a 
Greek goletta of 140 tons, for Rhodes, where there is 
fair anchorage in fine weather, but before reaching the 
island, we put into Castello Rosso, which is a very 
safe and excellent port for ships of moderate burden; 
and not far off, is the Bay of Marmora, or Marmorice, 
which Talso entered. It is ever memorable as the spot 
in which Nelson took refuge with hisentire fleet during 
bad weather, when on his way to Egypt. I might 
multiply instances of this kind, but T have already been 
enticed into a very long digression, by the important 
nature of the subject; and I think I have said quite 
enough to prove that it ts possible for Znglish ships of 
war, with good compasses, charts, and chronometers, ex- 
perienced officers, and British Hearts of Oak, to 
weather the gales of the Mediterranean, as they have 
done many a time before under the immortal Hero of 
the Nile. 
In further proof of the truth of these observations, 
let me add that a British squadron has weathered the 
* At Fomagusta there are elght and ten fathoms water, and at Larnien, from 
twoley to fiftoen fathoms. As to the other ports— that of Tripall ta bad, about 
fhvo fathoms, but foal ground, Meyrout ie the best but the whole line of the 


Syrian coast I open to the north-west winds, and some of the old ports (a3 
Seyde, or Sidon) are more or less choked with ruins, 





STEAM NAVIGATION. 57 


storms of 1840 and 41, in spite of all the maledictions 
of their most inveterate enemies. “'The Great Liver- 
pool,” the ‘ Oriental,” and other large steamers, too, 
did not cease to communicate with Egypt during the 
whole of the same winter and ensuing spring ; although 
there is reason to believe that they must have encoun- 
tered some unusually boisterous weather.* 
© See Vol. II, Chap. v. 


58 


CHAPTER III. 
ALEXANDRIA.—ARAB VIGILANCE. 


James, the son of Isaac Riches, was about thirty years 
of age, and commanded the “ City of Rochester,” a 
merchant ship, lying, at the period of our arrival, at 
Alexandria. She was larger than the “ Bristol,” but 
very inferior to her in other respects. The Egyptians 
have a law, by which ared flag should be hoisted at the 
Seraglio Point, as soon asa vessel of any nation or 
character appears in sight: but it would seem that they 
do not keep a very good look out, as no flag was hoisted 
until after we had let go our anchor: yet Mohammed 
Ali flatters himself that he is secure from the intrusion 
of Europeans : but, as Riches justly observed, “ What 
was there to have prevented me piloting in a few sloops- 
of-war, or some small-class frigates? I might have an- 
chored them snugly before the town : for the lazy watch 
had no idea of our approach. I have more than once 
had occasion to runin at the Marabout, when it was 
blowing a heavy gale from the northward, and I am as 


EGYPT'S STRONGHOLD. 59 


familiar with Alexandria as 1 am with the port of Lon- 
don or Liverpool.*" 

The Pascha has been so flushed with success, and 
was permitted to indulge his ambitious views so long 
without interruption, that he almost fancied himself 
impregnable, and that neither England nor France 
could take him by storm without first crossing the bar. 
It is this absurd notion which prevents him erecting 
landmarks or light-houses along the coast, or buoys 
to mark the three channels; still less any forts or 
martello towers to defend the entrance, which there 
doubtless would be, if Egypt were in the hands of the 
Europeans. 

Captain James Riches had been on the watch for his 
father some days. On the morning of the 9th, not- 
withstanding the weather was hazy, and the wind fresh, 
he descried a large ship in the direction of the Mara- 
bout, and knowing pretty well all the vessels that were 
in the Egyptian trade, he felt convinced that nobody 
but his father, or a British man-of-war, would attempt 
the Marabout in such weather, more particularly with- 
out a pilot. He immediately ordered out his long- 
boat (which, having occasion to stay some time at Alex- 
andria for cotton, he had rigged as a cutter), and went 
forth to welcome the “ gude man,” to the end that he 
might point out the situation of the ‘ Rochester,” and 
the most convenient berth for the “ Bristol.” He in- 
formed me that many would rejoice to hear of my arrival, 
there were only two medical men in the place, the one 
a drunkard, the other a gambler,—that both neglected 
their patients, and that nobody had any confidence in 

No ship larger than a sloop could pass in or out of the arbour, with her 


unt and stores; and whon un Egyptian frigate has been in to refit, her guna 
ave invariably sent out after her. 





60 DEBARKATION.—THE MAHMOUDIEH. 


either.* I gave him to understand, that I did not come 
to Egypt with a view to settle there professionally ; but 
that nevertheless I should not refuse my services to 
those who needed them. ‘The consequence was, that 
in less than half an hour, before even I had landed, 
(such was the necessitous condition of the Europeans 
in this particular) I was requested to visit the lady of a 
Captain Scott; anda very short time conyinced me 
that I should soon have enough to do,t 

We now prepared to land; and as our Captain was 
about to proceed to his agents, and afterwards to lay 
his papers before the Consul-general, Mr. Barker, we 
determined to avail ourselves of his escort; and full 
of expectation, pulled away to the Mahmoudieh, or 
landing place, without the walls. We were neither 
asked for passports, nor had to undergo any custom- 
house ordeal. But quite a noyel scene presented it- 
self. We were instantly surrounded by ragged, dirty, 
hard-featured urchins, with their still more miserable~ 
looking donkeys, whose bones were nearly through their 
skin, elbowing, pulling, and jostling, and assailing us 
with—* Ommar! Ommar! Capitan!—Donkey! Yes, 
very good !—Capitan Riches, how you do? Ommar 
taieeb !"J “ Where's Hamed ?” said the Captain, who 
was recognised by the donkey boys, “ where ?”—* Ha- 


© Tho former afterwards broke his neck in a At of Intemperanco ; the latter 
retired for want of patronage. Various individuals have since tried their luck + 
but floding it a bad speculation, the inhabitants aro still, I belleve, without 
fauy permanent medical adviser. 

+ Itt not my tntention to amuse the reader with an account of all my mer 
ical adventures ; but occasionally, when any thing occurs which is caleulated 
to throw light either upon individual character, climate, or the condition of tho 
people at large, 1 trast I shall not be considorod tedious if I speak of that which 
teoms to refer to mysclf, I shall ondcavour to be as concise as possible, re 
fraining altogether from the consideration af those questions, which, however 
Interesting they may bw to the medical enquirer, are little sulted to the taste of 
any one else, é 

$"Ommar"—donkey. " Tuiseh"—good. 





NELSON'S PILOT. 6L 


med! Hamed musch henne! (not here).” But Hamed 
was there : and immediatelymadehis appearance, brand- 
ishing a huge stick, and clearing his way right and left. 
He was an athletic, and rather young Arab, and wore 
the frock or dress peculiar to the boatmen and lower 
class of people. He knew Captain Riches very well, and 
offered to accompany us into the town. He spoke a 
little English, and snid his father would be glad to see 
him again at Alexandria. Old Hamed, Mustapha 
Hamed, was rather a remarkable character, and de- 
serves to be kept in remembrance ; for he was with 
Nelson at the battle of the Nile, and rendered essential 
service to the British nation. He was formerly a fisher- 
man, and thus attracted the notice of Lord Nelson, 
who, profiting by his assistance in entering the Bay of 
Aboukir, was enabled to prevent the exit of the French 
shipsin the night. Hamed was therefore instrumental 
in the destruction of the fleet, which subsequently took 
place : and so deeply was the British Admiral impressed 
with the importance of his services, that he wrote to 
Government, attributing his good fortune, in a great 
degree, to the piloting of Hamed, who lost a thumb 
during the action, but gained a handsome pension 
from the English, which he has since regularly received. 
This enabled him to trade. He became rich, and is 
said to have accommodated the Pascha with large sums 
of money. I will not say ent, for he could hardly ecal- 
culate on being repaid! However, Mohammed Ali, 
finding him a convenient sort of person to apply to, in 
more ways than one, gave him the exelusive right of 
providing ship-stores, &c. for the English at Alex- 
andria; and as many others employed him too, he used 
to make a pretty decent thing of it. He was always 
protected by the authorities, which rendered him yery 





62 ARAB DONKEY-RIDING, 


independent ; and when Mr. Gliddon, an English mer- 
chant, the present American Consul, once attempted to 
supply the ships, the Viceroy interfered. Hamed, 
though not very young, still continued to attach himself 
to the English,—picking up a few crumbs from those 
who visited the country, being a sort of lion there, and 
a useful person as a guide. 

We were soon mounted, but had a most uneasy 
seat; for the Arabs generally carry the stirrups so 
short, that the rider’s knees are like to wage war with 
his eyes; and it requires some practice to get accus- 
tomed to it. We had no time to reflect on the conse- 
quences ; scarcely were we in the saddle, than away 
went the poor little animals, the boys running after 
them, and goading them on with a small piece of 
pointed stick, which in some instances bad a rusty nail 
at the end of it. It is vain to call out, as you would 
not be understood, if heard; and you are entertained 
all the way with the attempts of the driver to speak 
English in praise of his donkey.—* Howad’giah !— 
Taieeb—Taieeb! Riglak! Riglak! Taieeb Getir!” 
“Donkey Taieeb! Iva!’* ‘“Ommar! very good! 
yes !"—belabouring and goading the poor beast right 
and left without mercy: if spoken to, he laughs, because 
he does not understand, and once more falls to upon 
the jaded brute ; and you have no alternative but to 
submit to your fate, and hang on as well as you can. 
‘The distance to the gates is fortunately not great, and 
in about half an hour or less, we reached the grand 
“Okellah,”+ the residence of the several consuls. 

* Good, good, Bir! yory good !—talke caro!” * Iya t""—yea, “ Ommane!"— 
donkey. 


+ A word derived from “1 Kalant,’*a castle. ‘They are gonorally lenge ond 
‘strong buildings, and with only one oF perhaps two entrances, 





DESCRIPTION OF ALEXANDRIA, 63 


‘This is the only good or even decent part of the town: 
the buildings are situated in an open space near what 
is termed the eastern or new harbour. ‘This consti- 
tutes the Frank quarters, and many commodious 
tenements have lately been erected there, partly by 
Europeans, and partly by Ibrahim Pascha, who lets 
them. The French Government have also built a 
palace for their minister, and there are now two 
good hotels: one English, the other French. The 
East India Company refused the Pascha’s offer to 
build them a coal depét, preferring to have one of 
their own, 

The immediate vicinity of the town is made up of 
heaps of rubbish, broken pottery, dirt, and ruins, pile 
upon pile: the very ground is hollow to the sound as 
you ride along, and not unfrequently gives way. The 
neighbourhood of Alexandria has not been excavated 
and examined as it deserves to be: there are some 
parts that have never been explored at all: and I have 
no doubt that many important discoveries are yet to be 
made there. The columns which remained of the 
famous Library have been taken down and cut up to 
form the Arsenal: also the granite base of the 
English Obelisque and other remains. Various build- 
ings, some with upright Corinthian columns and spa- 
cious chambers, have been discovered under the Old 
Library ; and Champollion cleared away the rubbish 
from the base of Cleopatra’s Needles, and found a 
flight of beautiful polished steps leading to that monu- 
ment; clearly proving that the original level of Alex- 
andria was much below the present one. The old 
city extended to a very considerable distance: the 
modern town is comparatively small; the population 
varying from 35,000 to 45,000. But this is no eri- 





64 SCENES AND IMPRESSIONS. 


. terion, a8 people live in holes, and many sleep in the 
‘open air.* 

Alexandria is now enclosed by turreted walls, which 
are between thirty and forty feet high, and extensive 
out-works, There are four gates, at each of which 
soldiers are stationed. We entered without difficulty: 
and no passport was demanded ; but before I left the 
country, the system of ‘Teskerehs’ or passports 
was introduced. 

Alexandria, then, retains nothing of her former 
splendour: we do not even see the shadow of what 
she once was, notwithstanding all that has been said 
of the improvements of modern times. No stranger 
can be otherwise than struck with this, even on his 
first arrival, in simply passing as we then were, to the 
consul’s residence, the way to which was obstructed 
by swarms of squalid wretches, who importuned us for 
that aid which their appearances seemed fully to re- 
quire :—their eyes were dull and hollow, their cheeks 
sunk in, their complexion sallow :—they were nearly 
destitute of clothing; and as they sat huddled to- 
gether, grovelling in the dirt, their look was abject, 
vacant, and shrivelled, haggard, sick and degenerate, 
and altogether such, that a more complete personifica- 
tion of Famine and Misery could not well be conceived. 
Such a scene is revolting to the feelings of any 
civilized being. Children are allowed to run about 
naked; and here and there, a miserable group of dogs 
presents itself on a mound of accumulated rubbish, 
growling and disputing over the carcase of an ass or 
a cal 

We had no difficulty in obtaining access to the 


* According to Plisy, there wore formerly 900,000 citizens, and about as 
many slavos ; and it was 19 miles in elreumference. In 1816—18, the popula- 
‘tion was only about 14,000.. 





ENGAGING A SERVANT. 65 


Consul. He welcomed us to Alexandria, and tendered 
his services in the most friendly manner, He was 
about fifty-six years of age, and the father of a family. 
I laid my plans before him, and asked his advice as to 
the best course to pursue. ‘The first step was to pro- 
cure a lodging, and an intelligent servant; for in 
the East, however familiar a person may be with the 
language, a servant is absolutely necessary, for various 
reasons. Coffee and sweetmeats had been presented 
to us, and we were discussing a quiet pipe of “ D'ge- 
baile’* on the divan in a suite of apartments furnished 
in the oriental style. Mr. Barker clapped his hands 
three times :—immediately an attendant entered, who 
was commanded to send Selim, a Janizary (or guard 
sanctioned by the government to all persons in au- 
thority), and Selim came. ‘ Go,” said the Consul, “to 
the hotel and order apartments for these gentlemen 
directly ; and make enquiry if any respectable servants 
are in the town.” Selim made his salaam, and 
retired, but very soon returned with intelligence that 
Mohammed Abdini was in want of a situation; Mr. 
Oliver, an American traveller, who was about to quit 
the country, having just given him his discharge; and 
that he would see us respecting him. This man was 
well known to the Consul as a trust-worthy individual, 
although a cunning, shrewd fellow, who would look to 
his own interest;—“ but,” said he, “you have nothing to 
fear from him; he will neither rob nor murder you; 
for he has a wife and family, and some character to 
support: but he has a good deal of vanity, and re- 
quires to be kept at a proper distance.” ‘The man was 
introduced, and his testimonials inspected. They were 
numerous and favourable. He was a native of Cairo? 
* The mont esteemed Syrian tobacco. 
VOL. 1. r 





66 DOMICILE.—INSECTS. 


ho had been about sixteen times up the country, to 
‘Thebes and the Cataracts, and three times to Pales- 
tine; he spoke Arabic, and Italian, and was described 
as a capital cook. Mr, Oliver gave him a fair cha- 
racter, and we agreed with him for ten dollars per 
month.” ‘There are servants to be had at all prices; 
but this ig considered the full wages. After some 
further conversation, we arose to depart, and went to 
take possession of our new abode, having promised 
Mr. Barker to return and spend the evening, with his 
family. Accompanied, therefore, by Mohammed and 
Selim, we set out to pay our devoirs to our hostess, a 
dirty, little, swarthy, black-eyed Spaniard. She re- 
ceived us very courteously, and gave us the best 


well off to get two beds: but what annoyed us most, 
was the want of cleanliness, and the intrusions of a 
three-fold variety of small gentry which did not seem 
at all conscious that their company was any thing bat 
agreeable! ‘These however, to me, were merciful eom- 
pared with the mosquitoes, which, even in Lower Hun- 
gary, led me a sad life; but in Egypt, I ex no 
quarter, and I found none. ‘Selim was dis; 
board the “ Bristol’ to fetch o 
sallied forth with our drogue 
town, and deliver a few lett the evening, we 
kept our appointment, id on many other 
occasions, we experienc: and friendship 
of the Consul and vady—a ly amiable, kind, 
and motherly perso z itine by birth, she still 
* The Spanish dollar was English; the plastre Ife. 5 
‘The pars is tho fortieth part of a piastre. 
‘f Anterproter. “ 





LEVANTINE COSTUME. 67 


dressed in the costume of her country: which is si- 
milar to that of the Greeks: the robes being loose 
and open in front like a pelisse, anda kind of broad 
band or shawl around the waist, which has rather a 
singular appearance: the hair is allowed to hang freely 
down the back and is more or less ornamented; _gene- 
rally plaited into cords, to which small gold coins are 
attached ; but the most singular part of the equipment 
is a huge pair of lofty, high-heeled wooden clogs or 
rather pattens ; they are worn in the house ; a practice 
which it is difficult to comprehend. In some parts of 
the Levant it is very common for persons to ramble 
about the premises without either shoes or stockings, 
and then pattens are doubtless useful when the weather 
is bad; but why they should be worn in the house, at 
other times, I am at a loss to conceive: it can only be 
from habit. Early in the evening, the Consul informed 
me that he had received a note from a particular friend 
of his, who having heard that there was an English phy- 
sician in the town, now begged that he would intercede 
for him in behalf of one of his daughters, who had been 
suffering a long time from a severe attack of rheu- 
matic fever. It was a source of great pleasure to me 
to reflect that T had been brought up to # profession 
which was available in a foreign country, and which, 
from its nature, was calculated to insure me the good 
will of strangers. I am certainly indebted to it for 
protection, and the friendly offices not only of Euro- 
peans but of the natives; and whilst employing my 
best energies for the alleviation of liiman suffering, T 
not only had the gratification of prosecuting my fa- 
vorite study with advantage, but I had abundant 
opportunity of observing character. It has been 
justly remarked that “what we never miss we rarely 
r2 





63 MOHAMMEDAN NOTIONS OF PHYSICIANS. 


prize.” A cup of water in the desert is imbibed as 
nectar; though what is there so lightly esteemed in 
the midst of luxury and state? So likewise, in half 
civilized countries, where there are no institutions, and 
where education is altogether neglected, nobody is so 
much sought after by all classes as an intelligent and 
humane physician. He is regarded as the universal 
friend of man, the benefactor of the destitute and the 
afflicted. In Egypt and Syria, however, where the 
people are groaning under the scourge of oppression, 
where they are borne down with sorrow and the pangs 
of hunger, and labouring to support a mass of accu- 
mulated evils already too great to be endured, it is 
melancholy to reflect that the services of a medical 
man will often avail them little; for their malady is far 
beyond the reach of art:—nevertheless, the poor 
deluded creatures flatter themselves that he can help 
them on all occasions: they look up to him as to a 
being whom “Allah” has sent among them with 
power to relieve; and they consider that he is highly 
favored of the Almighty to have been invested with 
such power! That it is attainable by study is no part 
of their creed—they refer it entirely to Providence. 
‘To God therefore they direct their thoughts; in Him 
they put implicit trust, and to Him they pray for relief 
in the hour of trial. In Mohammedan countries, 
whatever good feeling may exist among individuals, 
however they may be attached or bound in gratitude 
(as Christians say,) to relieve, and serve their neigh- 
bour, one man never thanks or praises another for 
benefits received : (unless in the case of a slave to his 
taster ; and then it is generally in terms of adulation 
to some great man:) at least, such is what their 
religion inculeates. He will prove his gratitude by 





MOHAMMEDAN DOCTRINES OF BENEVOLENCE. 69 


acts of kindness, pray for him, and shed his blood in 
his defence, if necessary ;—but he never says, “1 
thank you.” The belief is, that thanksgiving and 
praise are due only to the “Most High,” and that 
we, who are all equally his creatures, are equal in 
obligation to Him for his mercies; that, therefore, as 
we haye nothing that we can call our own, whatever 
gifts or talents may have been bestowed upon us, but are 
all equally dependant on the Almighty like the birds 
of the air and the beasts of the field ; so ought we to 
take a lesson from the inferior animals, and help one 
another: that no man is greater or less than another 
in the eyes of God; and that where the necessity is 
mutual, there can be no obligation; therefore no 
thanks are due—no praise. Such is their belief, and 
it is pretty generally acted up to throughout the 
Mohammedan empire. All are fatalists; and believ- 
ing that what has been decreed in heaven cannot be 
absolved on earth, they tell you that human interference 
is vain, and often wicked: that whatever evil may 
come upon them it is their destiny :—that they can 
ouly beseech “Allah” to avert or lighten the blow; 
and that it is their duty to submit implicitly to his will. 
Whenever they derive benefit from one of their fellow 
creatures, they bless God, and pray that their bene- 
factor may be defended from harm: they look up to 
Heaven and exclaim “ Marschallah! * Allah ouak- 
bar!” * Allah Kereem !’*—or they utter with great 
feeling and devotion, “Allah! il Allah! il Allah > 
or, looking toward the “ Kiaba"t of the Prophet, 
they mutter a prayer in behalf of their friend, and 
bring him presents, saying “ Inschallah !" that is, God 
* God in great! God is wonderful! God ts mereifult 
+ There is but one Godt 


{ The Shrine of Mohammed. 7 





7O SINGULAR EXHIMITION OP GRATITUDE, 


willing! our brother shall get well! The H’akkim* 
replies, “Tnschallah! Tnschallah!” and, followed by the 
benedictions of the people, retires, leaving his patient 
to repose as he beat may, surrounded as he generally 
is, by a host of friends, and relatives, charms and in- 
cantations! Such is, however, the faith of the indivi- 
dual, that often the fever abates with the receding step 
of the physician, and he falls into a soft slumber, from 
which he awakes refreshed and soothed. He hails the 
approach of the H’akkim as the harbinger of good; 
he reveres him as bis best earthly benefactor, as the 
dispenser of blessings to mankind, and as the favored 
agent of God, So deeply are they impressed with 
this, that they believe it is in his power to contribute 
to their happiness in various other ways, and that he is 
sent among them for that purpose also. . They not 
unfrequently therefore ask him for money and advice: 
and if it, or any other favour be refused, they attribute 
it to the curse of “Allah,” which they suppose to 
be upon them, or else that they have offended the 
‘man of God.” 

When Mr. Barker resided at Aleppovas agent to the 
Levant Company, he once took compassion on a poor 
fellow who had been ill-treated; he was quite destitute, 
and covered with wounds. After keeping him a fort- 
night in his house, feeding and clothing him as one of 
his own people,—being once more restored to health 
and vigour, he dismissed him; but when the man was 
about to depart, he asked him for money! ‘* What!” 
said Mr. Barker, “money! Is it possible that you 
ask for money? Have I not kept you here a whole 
fortnight, fed, and lodged, and clothed you? Is that 
not enough? Are you so dissatisfied, that when you 


* Physician, or wise mun, 





. 
PHILANTHROPY, THANKSGIVING; AND PRAISE. 71 


are going away, healed of your wounds, and your foree 
recruited, you come and ask me to give you money ?”* 
The Arab, however, was quite as much astonished as 
the Consul, and addressed him somewhat in the follow- 
ing terms:—* Allah! Allah! Ouakbar! | What shall 
Tsay? What shall Ido? Is it possible? Marschallah! 
You have given me food and raiment, and a home, con- 
solation, and advice; and then, when you have restored 
my health, and raised my drooping spirits, you send me 
forth to starve upon the road! When I first came to 
your door, I was wretched, and forsaken by all but 
Allah !"—here he made a momentary pause, and his 
lips moved in silence; he then went on:— Allah 
directed my steps, and my soul, which was drooping 
for lack of nourishment, found comfort at a Christian’s 
hands! Blessed be Allah !—and again he muttered 
a prayer. ‘Alas! Sir,” be continued, “1 am one of 
the children of adversity. In sorrow was I brought 
forth, and my fate has been a hard one; but there is 
still a place in heaven for the sons of the Prophet; 
and the houris of Paradise shall await the coming of 
the faithful with joy and gladness. I pray you, send 
me not forth in this way! You have been kind and 
good to me, and Allah’ shall prosper even the unbe- 
liever who is just,—that ‘Allah’ which has given you 
power to dispense his blessings to the afflicted’ poor,— 
he will not leave his children destitute, and yours shall 
flourish ; for * Allah’ has shewn you favour, and will 
forget the sins of your fathers, whose perverse spirit 
made them rebel against our Holy Prophet. Marsch- 
allah! Allah! Allah! il Allah !—You have given me 
to eat and to drink,—you have clothed and sheltered 
me; and yet is the hungry wolf of the plain, or the 





* 
72 MUSSULMAUN PHILOSOPHY, AND PIETY. 


dib* which prowleth in the desert, more happy than L 
am; for if you send me forth thus destitute, 1 go 
hence as wretched as I came, and I shall sink down by 
the wayside, exhausted, and faint, and sick, and perish 
in the land of strangers. Give me, then, some money, 
that men may at least take me into their houses, that 
so I be not spurned like a dog from the door, and left 
to shelter with the fretful jackall among the tombs !— 
Blessed be God!” 

Thus ended this extraordinary effusion. It contains 
a strange admixture of feelings: we observe in it piety, 
gratitude, self-love, pride, vanity, contempt for Chris- 
tianity, humility, wisdom, hope, resignation, and fidelity; 
but we do not find a single word expressive of thank- 
fulness, or rather of obligation to the Consul himself— 
a little gratitude, perhaps, as evinced by his praying 
for the prosperity of an unbeliever; but all the glory is 
given to “ Allah” and the Prophet. It contains a good 
deal of truth, and yet the style of reasoning is curious, 
Neither is it unphilosophical; for, to feed and clothe a 
man to-day, and to-morrow to turn him out without the 
means of subsistence, or prospect of obtaining it, 
seems at first sight calculated to inerease rather than 
diminish the sufferings of the unfortunate, and to cor- 
respond but little with primitive notions of charity, 
However, be this as it may, in the East we sometimes 
meet with very original ideas, and this anecdote serves 
to illustrate some of them. 

I was accompanied by Mr. Charles Barker to the 
house of Mr. Gliddon, in whose society I afterwards 
passed much of my time. I found his daughter, as 
had been represented to me, very ill; but I had the 
happiness to restore her to health, in spite of curses 

* Hymna. 





HEALING THE 8ICK,—CASTING OUT OF DEVILS. 73 


and spells; for a black female slave, who formed a 
part of Mr. Gliddon’s establishment, was not a little 
jealous of my interference, and seemed to think that I 
was infringing upon her rights and privileges, as she 
prided herself on her medical skill, and wished to have 
recourse to magic. She was very dissatisfied at my 
treatment, and would have had me dismissed. She 
looked very dlack whenever 1 made my appearance; 
but she beheld her young charge recover at last without 
the aid of witehcraft, spells, or sorcery! Very soon 
after this, I was afforded another opportunity of wit- 
nessing the influence of the same ideas on the mind of 
one of these people. It is a very common thing for 
European families to have a black nurse in the East, 
and they are geuerally most faithful and excellent 
servants, notwithstanding the prejudices of early edu- 
cation, I was attending a young lady who had been a 
long time confined with a bad leg, and in this instance, 
too, my poor simple friend was very angry to think she 
was not allowed to have her way; and she said repeat- 
edly, that it was “of no use to let ef H’akkim come 
there,—he not do any good ;"" for that her young lady 
had got “a Shitan’ (that is, a devil) in ber, and that 
there was but one way to get him out: that she must 
sit by herself three hours every day in the sun, and 
pray to Allah—* Allah! Allah! you come you please, 
—you take him Shitan out! Her young mistress 
was, however, spared the penalty of this pretty amuse- 
ment, and the delightful prospect of being either baked 
or fried ; for “el H’akkim,” much to the astonishment 
of poor blackey, contrived to take “him Shitan out,” 
without calling in Aer to bis aid, or having recourse to 
either charms, incantations, necromancy, or any other 
supernatural means ! 





ved MIRACLE-MONGERS, AND SORCERERS- 


‘The common people in the East attribute a great 
deal more to the influence of bis Satanic Majesty than 
we do in the West, The idea of sitting in the sun to 
eure diseases prevails very generally, and it is with 
many a favourite remedy. The prevalence of this and 
many other superstitious notions furnishes a very strik- 
ing proof of the darkness which still prevails over the 
minds of these deluded people: I say deluded, because 
they are not only suffering from the various troubles 
which agitate the country, but because the government 
is too much engaged with political affairs to interest 
itself about the spiritual welfare of any portion of the 
inhabitants, and because these simple creatures, who 
are as capable of feeling and of appreciating the bless- 
ings of Providence as Christians, and many others 
besides the blacks,—become the dupes of a set of 
crafty hypocrites, who go about dispensing charms to 
them, and imposing upon their credulity in a great 
variety of ways. Miracle-mongers and saints are to be 
found in every village ; there is no want of soothsayers 
and wise men; but unfortunately, their wisdom consists 
only in artifice and cunning, and in the power which 

ir fellows of working upon the 


* very any, I be- 
‘performanee of their miracles 


persons, extremely a 
In Poland, especial the Atungarian frontier, an 1 had sportunity of 
seeing a good di Jace pd ow 4 seo “ Geschichte 





TALISMANS, AMULETS, AND CHARMS. 76 


are plenty of weak and eredulous persons to be found, 
ready to be made their dupes, by coming to receive 
the blessings which they promise to impart. Whether 
these pretended devotees work miracles or not, there 
is no doubt that they work themselves into a state little 
short of phrenzy for the time being ; for they have re- 
course to all kinds of contortions, noises, and grimaces, 
that they may excite the feelings of their followers, and 
the better impose upon their ignorance, When their 
minds are thus prepared, they find it no difficult matter 
to dispose of amulets at a great price, and  w'araga’’ 
or charms, consisting generally of slips of parchment 
with religious sentences written on them, (extracts from 
the Khoran, or the reputed sayings of some celebrated 
Mohammedan anchorite,) to those who are about to 
enter upon a journey, or who may wish Lo be protected 
against the “evil eye,” and the machinations of 
fiendish spirits; or to be otherwise exempted from 
danger, sickness, or sorrow. Many of the votaries of 
such superstition are females ; who seek to remove the 
infirmities of their nature, by listening to the pre- 
dictions, of a self-created prophet, who finds it his 
interest to promise them the fulfilment of their wishes 5 
and that through his intercession with “ Allah,” they 
shall become the joyful mothers of children. Such 
artful impostors exist chiefly in large and populous 
towns, and are not to be confounded with many other 
religious devotees who come from afar, and profess to 
cure diseases and heal the wounded spirit by their 
prayers and the laying on of hands: for these take no 
money, and are an artless, innocent, well disposed, 
though ignorant people, who have persuaded  them- 
selves, that because they have made the holy pilgri- 
mage, and from choice lead a life of privation, their 





76 INCANTATIONS OF THE MAGI. 


prayers will be heard and implicitly granted. They 
actually believe that they have the power of dispensing 
blessings to mankind,—that they are the favoured of 
* Allah” and the Prophet ; and they are to all intents 
and purposes as deluded as those who listen to them. 
They must not be mixed up with the wily, cunning 
vagabonds, who prowl about from place to place under 
the denomination of saints, or magicians, seeking out 
objects on which to exercise their skill. It is truly 
astonishing with what success these meet; and I have 
even known Europeans acknowledge themselves in 
doubt concerning some of the tricks which they had 
witnessed. Not that they imagined such mysterious 
personages had any dealings with the spirits of the 
lower world, and still less with those above; but that 
they were quite at a loss to understand or explain how 
such conjurors succeeded in accomplishing what they 
did. 

It is not my purpose to enter further upon this sub- 
ject at present. I shall have occasion to describe facts 
which I also have seen, and I think my readers will 
agree with me, that these wandering “ Magi” are 
nothing more than scheming adventurers, like our 
fortune-tellers and conjurors at fairs, whose province it 
is to deceive;—less harmless, perhaps, inasmuch as they 
pass themselves off for actual magicians or necro- 
maucers, and endeavour to persuade people that they 
have it in their power by a supernatural agency, to 
curse and to bless, cast out devils, foretell future events, 
heal the sick, and so forth. ‘They pretend by incan- 
tations to communicate with the devil, so as to be able 
to discover hidden treasures, and detect a thief, which 
they no doubt often do, simply by well practised 
sagacity, and by testing the conscience of the suspected 





GOOD AND EVIL. SPIRETS. ra 


parties. But there are many thousands elsewhere, 
who, like them, live by their wits in the daily exercise 
of their calling, striving to get an honest living by 
industriously working upon the imaginations of those 
who have either not rove enough to see through their 
duplicity, or firmness enough to resist it. In acountry 
like Egypt, we are not surprised, if persons of this stamp 
are to be found flocking about the tent or habitation 
of a conjuror: for, such is the darkness which prevails 
over a great proportion of the population, that it 
almost forms a part of their education to believe in the 
influence of spells and curses. It is not wonderful 
then, that they should put their trust also in magicians, 
and imagine that He who can inflict a punishment, pro- 
nounce a curse, and subject one to the machinations of 
an evil spirit, should also have the power from above, 
through “ Allah,” of removing the anticipated conse- 
quences when duly ingratiated. Of the existence of 
good and bad spirits, the major part of the inhabitants 
have no doubt whatever; and they conceive that 
H’adgjs and others who are distinguished by their sup- 
posed piety, may invoke and expel them if they will. 
‘We read of persons “ possessed of devils,” and of the 
“casting out of devils,” as common among the Jews 
and other Oriental nations, from the earliest period ; 
and the idea is even now so general in Egypt, Persia, 
and Arabia, that it is acted upon on almost all oc- 
casions ; and we are frequently told that a man who is 
sick has “got a devil!” particularly if his complaint 
have withstood the superstitious mummery, and the 
prayers of some Mobammedan saint, who, having 
failed to relieve the patient's sufferings by miraculous 
agency, has, in his wisdom, pronounced him “ in- 
curable,” —for that “the curse of ‘Allah’ is upon him!" 





73 INTERION OP ALEXANDRIA. 


If it were necessary to multiply examples, a volume’ 
might be written on this subject alone; but 1 shall 
close my remarks for the present, by observing that so 
great faith have the “fellahs”* of Egypt in charms, 
that they very frequently ask a stranger, especially if he 
be a medical man, and a Frank,t to give them some, 
which they afterwards preserve with great diligence, 
and only bring them out in time of sickness and mis 
fortune. ‘They may be seen in great variety hanging 
about the neck, or tied to different parts of the body, 
particularly the seat of pain; and if they do not 
work miracles, they, no doubt, often effect that which 
ordinary measures certainly would fail to accomplish. 
Belzoni mentions, that on one oceasion, having ad- 
ministered to the wants of a sick person, and procured 
him relief, he came to see him a short time afterwards, 
when, hearing that Mrs. Belzoni was a little indisposed 
—without asking what the matter might be-—the man 
wished to employ a celebrated charm or talisman, which 
he said he possessed, in her favour, which, however, 
was declined. 

Thaye already attempted to give some idea of the 
approach to the town of Alexandria,—the interior is 
not much better. With the exception of the Frank 
Quarter, the streets are all narrow, dirty, and full of 
disgusting sights. ‘The shops are only stalls, as in the 
generality of bazaars; and frequently canvass is thrown 
across from side to side, in order to keep out the sun, 
which is an advantage in a hot climate, though it often 
makes the atmosphere feel very close. Coffee-shops 
abound: the houses are built with flat roofs, and have 
many of them more than one story, and private cisterns. 

. 


‘Peasantry. 
+ The term Frank ix spplied to, all who aro not Moharinedans; exeept the 
Tews. 





SITE AND EXTENT OF THE OLD TowN. — 79 


The site of the old town may be traced far beyond the 
walls, particularly to the south, where the ground is 
covered with confused mass of ruins. It has aptly 
enough been compared to a stone-mason’s yard; for 
broken columns, architraves, and obelisques, lie scat- 
tered about in all directions, and many of what are 
termed the Frank country-houses at “ Coom el Dek- 
keh,” are built of such materials, There is indeed no 
other stone to be found within 300 miles. These ruins 
‘at present include a space of six or seven miles in cir- 
cumference, and this gives us but a very poor idea of 
the extent of the old town. When Alexandria sur- 
rendered to the Caliph Omir, it is said to have con- 
tained “4000 palaces, 4000 baths, 400 theatres or 
public edifices, and 12,000 shops; and a population, 
which may be estimated, by its including 40,000 Jews.” 
OF the monuments of antiquity, there remains now 
hardly a vestige: and were it not that one likes to 
pause upon the spot, and consider the changes that 
have taken place, not only in Egypt, but throughout 
that world, in which the famous town of Alexandria 
once played so important a part, the traveller need not 
be detained very long. If he merely wishes to see the 
‘lions,” and depart, as many do, bis curiosity will soon 
be satisfied ; but there is a great deal more to interest 
than simply that which meets the eye. However, the 
limits of this book will not permit me to indulge in my 
reflections on these subjects; and I am compelled to 
pass rapidly on, much more go than I actually did; for 
on this my first visit, I resided about a month, and 
should not then have taken my departure, but on Brad- 
ford’s account, as will be seen in the sequel. It was 
the second day of our sojourn at the hotel, and accord- 
ing to agreement, we set out, accompanied by Captain 
5 





80 EXCURSION. —-ANCIENT REMAINS.—BEARDS. 


Riches, his son, Mr, Charles Barker, and old Mustapha 
Hamed, to make our first visit to Pompey's Pillar, and 
the various other objects of interest. Donkeys were 
soon procured, and away we went, headed by our 
“ Mehmandar,”* old Hamed, rolled up like a huge 
ball, upon a small jackass, his turbaned head sunk for+ 
ward between his broad round shoulders, and his knees 
up to his eyes—altogether presenting a most ludicrous 
appearance, and rendered still more extraordinary, in 
that he was quietly pacing in the centre of a group of 
English, dressed in the tight costume of the north, 
which, by the bye, already made us wax warm, and was 
very ill adapted to Egyptian stirrups and the luxurious 
divan; the comforts and attractions of which we were 
just beginning to appreciate. Besides, we found out 
that the saucy Arabs “laughed at our beards!” (not 
literally, for as yet we had none), but on account of the 
formal cut of the Frank dress, and of the hat, which, 
to a Mussulman, is an absolute abomination ; because 
it is regarded as the ensign of Christianity. Wecould 
not lay aside the hat; but we vowed to have at least a 
pair of fierce moustaches to fright away the boys, and 
let the women see we coud have a beard, if we liked. 
So from that day forth we allowed them to sprout— 
every morning watching their progress, like a pet plant; 
and they soon began to shew signs of coming to ma- 
turity ; but the inconvenience of the hat became every 
hour more annoying. The ground over which we rode 
was yery uncertain; it sounded hollow, partly from the 
condition of the ruins, but chiefly from the number of 
excavated tombs and reservoirs, many of them being 
only imperfectly obliterated. The soil about Alex- 
andria is light and sandy, and mixed with stone. Corn 
* Generally an armed guide. 





THE SOIL AND IT3 PRODUCE. 81 


is grown in the season, and also the orange and the 
lemon ; but the date is the most profitable. Alex- 
andria was once famous for the fruit “* nebbek™ (Pali- 
urus Abeni), and also the “ Kishne” (Cassia Keshta). 
‘The latter grows a good deal in the West Indies ; the 
former is well known in the Desert, and is much prized 
by the Arabs: some of it was given to me by some 
of the Bedouins, at one of their feasts, at which I was 
present, at Tor, on the borders of the Red Sea. The 
fruit is about as large as a cherry, and has, in like man- 
ner, a stone within it; it differs in colour, approaching 
nearer to a reddish brown, and tastes something like an 
apple orquince. There is a quantity of kali cultivated 
at times on the banks of the canal, and the Alexan- 
drian senna is also a source of considerable profit. A 
great part of the old town seems to have stood on 
arches ; and some of the cisterns were very large: for 
then, as now, there does not appear to have been any 
other means of supplying the town with water. The 
roofs of the cisterns were usually supported by pillars, 
and were of massy timber. In Browne’s time, there 
were only seven of these reservoirs fit for use ; water, 
he tells us, was still kept in them, and sold at the rate 
of four or five parahs a camel's load. It is very com- 
mon to attribute whatever is here not understood, to 
Cleopatra : especially when the monks of the convents 
have any voice in the matter: thus the baths of this 
fair queen are pointed out; but there is no depend- 
ance to be placed on what is said respecting them. 
One of the most prominent objects in Alexandria is 
“ Pompey’s Pillar.” It has so often been described, 
that a very few words are necessary here. Its history 
is still a matter of doubt. Persons are apt to fall into 
8 very natural error concerning it, and imagine that it 
VOL. I. eo 





$2 CLEOPATRA'S BATHS —POMPEY’S PILLAR, 


was put up by Casar to commemorate the success of 
his arms against Pompey; but this idea is, I believe, 
without foundation, The opinion which seems to ap- 
proach nearer to the truth, and which classics chiefly 
subscribe to (though even that is little more than 
surmise) is, that it was erected by a governor of Egypt, 
whose vame was Pompey, in honour of the Emperor 
Dioclesian. 

The Emperor's name is still to be seen upon the 
shaft of the column, and it is pretty well authenticated 
that such a person as Pompey did exist, and was 
actually governor of Lower Egypt in the time of 
Dioclesian. ‘The chief authority on this subject is M- 
Quatremére.* The column is still a fine one, although 
much mutilated. The shaft consists of a single piece 
of solid Syene granite. The entire height, including 
the pedestal, is ninety-nine feet ; but, in 1821, Captain 
Smith of the “ Adventure,” had the curiosity to ascend 
the column with several of his officers, and with Mr. 
Maddox, to whose account I may therefore. refer for 
an accurate statement of the dimensions.~ That 
gentleman informs us that the ascent was made by a 
ladder thrown over the top; and that the only incon- 
venience felt was from the pain in the arms produced 
by attempting to hold fast; for the ladder swung a 
good deal, and its steps were rather wide apart. 
«From appearances,” says Mr. M. ‘it might be con- 
eluded that a globe or statue had formerly been fixed 


* Vide Walpole’s Memoirs, p.375, note. 


+Thewholoheight - . . . , 
angth of the single stone which forms the shaft. 
Diatneter of the upper part of the ahaft . . 
Diameter of the lower part of thesanar | 
Excursions 10 the Holy Land, Egypt, &e., by Sohn Maddox, Bag, vol iv ps 





HIDDEN TREASURE—ST, ATHANASIUS, ~ 83 


here.” Pococke gives a similar accountz:—but Dr. 
Clarke supposes, that this circular cavity which has 
been described, and which is about two inches deep, 
was intended to receive, not a statue, but an wrn, and 
he goes so far as to suppose that the urn might contain 
ee head or the heart of Pompey the Great: thus 

a it appear that the column in question was a 
sepulchral. monument; but the balance of the evi- 
dence is on the other side, and Dr. Clarke's argument 
is founded on a mere conjecture. The space at the 
top must be considerable, as on the occasion just 
quoted, there were no less than six persons there at 
the same time. An unsuccessful attempt was once 
made by an Arab to blow up this fine column, with & 
view to obtain the treasure which he expected to find 
beneath it; forgetting that he would find also plenty to 
share the booty with him, if the governor did not even 
claim the whole, and dispose of /im for his officious- 
ness. 

Not far from the sea-shore, to the eastward, stands 
the Capuchin Convent, a little to the N. E. of which 
are some heaps of ruins, supposed to occupy the site 
of the ancient church of Saint Athanasius ; they evi- 
dently mark the situation of some extensive edifice ; 
but being so close to the celebrated obelisques known 
by the name of Cleopatra’s Needles, it is more pro+ 
bable, I think, that they once formed a part of the 
palace which the latter are believed to have adorned. 
St. Athanasius was patriarch of Alexandria, a. D. 
373. He was renowned for his opposition to the 
Arians, and for his name having been affixed to the 
ereed which contains his doctrines. He died in 373. 
Alban Butler says the creed was compiled in Latin in 
the 5th century, 

62 





84 DESOLATION OF THE CHURCH—FANATICISM. 


It is truly melancholy to observe the desolate condi- 
tion of the Christian Church in Egypt, and in Alex- 
andria more especially ; for with the exception of the 
convents where a few miserable monks assemble to 
worship God in obscurity, away from the eye of man, 
and in some places subject to insult,—there is not a 
single building to be met with which is set aside for 
religious purposes. Notwithstanding there are so 
many resident Christians, notwithstanding the diminu- 
tion of prejudice, and the comparative spirit of tolera~ 
tion which exists among the more enlightened of the 
Mohammedans,—it will scarcely be believed that hither- 
to there has been no chaplain attached to either of the 
European embassies! Not only are the churches of 
Asia Minor destroyed, but the wings of persecution 
have been extended oyer the East also. How plainly 
do we see the fulfilment of the prophecies, even at 
Alexandria! How forcibly are we struck at every 
step, with the accuracy of those documents which have 
been handed down to us, and how much is it to be 
regretted that any portion of them should have been 
lost or defaced! What an inexhaustible treasure 
would not the famous library of this once great city 
have opened to us! had it not, in the 7th century, 
under the Caliphe Omar Ebn Al Khattab, fallen a 
prey to the fury of relentless fanatics—that library, 
which was the talk of the whole world, and to which 
Plato and Pythagoras came to study, and which con- 
tained such rich stores of learning that all the philo- 
sophers of the East and of the West were wont to 
reftr to it for information and authority! Alas! we 
know not what we lost when it was destroyed !—for 
doubtless many of its MSS, contained much that was 
valuable relative to the early ages of the world, and of 





THE ANCIENT LIBRARY AND SCHOOLS. 85 


which we now know nothing. Yes! the famous 
library of Alexandria is gone !—it has been reduced to 
a single volume :—the “ Khoran |" the only book the 
followers of Islam are permitted to read —‘*a pocket 
wade mecum" as Sir Frederick Henniker quaintly 
terms it, “of love, law, and religion!” I conceive 
that by the destruction of that wonderful collection of 
manuscripts, the infidel Omar inflicted a blow ten 
times more severe upon Christianity, and more fatal to 
the progress of civilization generally, than all that the 
sword of Mohammed or his deluded followers in their 
mistaken zeal for religion, have ever been able to ac- 
complish. Some idea may be formed of the extent 
and maguificence of this library, when it is remembered 
that the MSS. there deposited had been for years col- 
lecting by the Ptolemies at an enormous expense, and 
that they had been brought from all parts of the earth. 
They were burnt in 642; and, it is said, that the 
yolumes were so numerous, that they actually supplied 
fuel for as many as 4000 baths, during six months. 
The schools of Alexandria were once so famous, that 
to have studied there was an universal passport; and we 
read that “the astronomical school, founded by 
Philadelphus, maintained its superior reputation for 
ten centuries, till the time of the Saracens.” That 
Alexandriawas once famous for its churches, there seems 
to be no doubt. Where are theynow? The private 
meetings of families, and the occasional preachings of 
the Protestant missionaries on board the English ships 
in the harbour, and at their own dwellings, are the only 
demonstrations of religious feeling afforded by any 
part of the Frank population; and hence, many of 
the less informed Mohammedans naturally suppose 
that the people called Christians have no religion at all; 
3 





86 FULFILMENT OF PROPHECY—CIVILIZATION. 


for they see no attempt to worship God in any shape.* 
Butthat achange, and a most important change, is about 
to take place, I firmly believe ; and that many of the 
ancient prophecies which have not yet been explained, 
will, ere long, be open to the understanding of all. 
The unerring truth of scripture has lately been strik- 
ingly illustrated. There ie not only “an altar to the 
Lord in the midst of the land of Egypt,” but “a 
pillar at the border thereof” is even now building. 
“And it shall be for a sign and for a witness unto the 
Lord of Hosts in the land of Egypt: for they shall 
ery unto the Lord because of the oppressors,” &c.t 
Colonel Hodges went to Alexandria as Consul-general. 
He arrived on the 14th of Dec. 1839, and the next 
day laid the first stone of a Protestant church, to be 
called the “church of St. Mark.” The Rey. Mr. 
Duff, a missionary of some celebrity in India, who 
happened to be present, performed the religious part 
of the ceremony, in which he was followed by the Rev. 
Mr. Grimshaw. The great work of civilization is fast 
advancing :—fanaticism and superstition are diminish- 
ing in proportion to the diffusion of knowledge; 
infidelity is out of fashion, and those who profess it 
are considered to be devoid of taste :—the eyes of the 
multitude are gradually opening to their own interest : 
Mohammed Ali is but an agent in the hands of the 
Almighty ; his power is expanding like a circle in the 
water, which enlarges until it bursts: and the Ottoman 
Empire is rapidly coming to a close. ‘The veil will 
then be thrown aside; people will no longer ob- 

* At Aloxnndrin thora are, it is true, a Latin, n Coptic, and a Groak convent ; 
bat thelr form of worship is wuch, that those who dwell there are considered 
Welaters, and hated by the Mussulmaons, When there is notniasionary, the 


Greeks porform tho rites of boptiem and burial for the Protestants, 
yy Vide Teaiab, chao, xix. v. 19 to the ead. 





CHRISTIANITY TRIUMPHANT. 87 


stinately adhere to doctrines which their conscience 
must tell them, if they think at all, are erroneous, and 
altogether devoid of that spiritual comfort which the 
Christian so pre-eminently derives under affliction, and 
which xo other religion can confer. As mankind be- 
come enlightened, so will they feel and be convinced 
that there is no system of religion, whether in regard 
to theory, practice, or the blessings and advantages it 
offers, which will for a single moment, admit of com- 
parison with that which we profess ;—then will the re- 
ligion of Jesus Christ flourish triumphant over all; 
and, as has been again and again predicted, animosity 
shall be laid aside, sectarianism shall cease, and we 
shall become “ one fold under one Shepherd.” 

St. Athanasius was not the only one of the early 
preachers of the gospel who resided at Alexandria, 
which was always an important point, on account of its 


learning and its commerce: the patriarchs and others, 
holy men, often retired there for a season, and kept 
up a constant correspondence with those of the in- 
habitants who had become their converts. St. Mark 
is spoken of as one of these, and there can be no 
question, [ think, that he was,* 

The “Needles of Cleopatra” are two beautiful 


* © Tt in generally allowed,” says Mx. Audley, “that Mark, mentioned in 
1 Peter, y. 18, is the Rvangelist; but it hus been doubted whether be be the 
sarap ax Mark, ‘surnamed John,’ mentioned in the Acts,andin someof St. Paul's 
Epistles." Dr. Lardner thinks there is but one Mark jin the New Testament: 
John Mark the Kvangolist, and fellow labourer of Paul, Barnabas, and Peter. 
He was tho son of Mary, a plows wornan of Jerusalem, at whore house the dis~ 
ciples used to meet.‘ And it was here that they were assembled when Peter 
‘came to them after that he had escaped from prison.” (Acte xil, 18.) “ Itks not 
Known at what period Mark became. follower of Christ. Ils gospel was pro= 
ably written about the year G3 or 64, and it has been sald, that Mark going: 
Into Kgypt, first proachest the gospol which ho had written, and. * planted there 
seany churches.’ He dow not appear to have heen » martyr, but died in the 
‘eighth your of Nero, and wns buried at Alexundyia.” Howover, Batler says, 
“itis certain that he was appointed by St, Peter Bishop of Alexandria,’ that 





88 ST. MARK AND THE PATRIARCHS. 


obelisques, which are supposed to have been brought 
from Memphis, and to have once adorned the palace 
of the Ptolemies. They are about sixty-four feet in 
height, that is, above the sand, and eight feet square 
at the base,* They are covered with hieroglyphics, 
referring to the temples and statues at Thebes and 
Heliopolis, as illustrative of Egyptian mythology, and 
they are formed of one entire piece of Syene granite, 


‘he wae martyred ia the year 68,4 and that when he was discovered by bis per 
socutors, he was offering to God the prayer of oblation, or the muss." So that 
‘we are Ted to believe, from Butler's account, that “the mass” was performed 
‘even in the time of St. Mark, Hut the “ Prayer of Oblation" here referrwd to, 
‘was ossontinily different to tho ceremony of Mast us performed in the present 
duy, by the Church of Romo! 

‘The same writer gravely quotes the acto of St. Mark also, to acquaint us that 
St, Anianus, whom ho calls tho second bishop of Alexandria (A.D. 86.) “was 
fu shoe~naker of that city, whose hand,belng wounded with an awl, &t. Mark 
‘healed when he first entered the city, Sach was his fervour and progress In 
‘virtno and learning, that St. Mark constituted him Bishop of Alexandria during 
‘bis absence; and’Anianus governed that great Church four yeare with him, and 
eighteen years and seven months after his death.” Rebinaon’s version of the 
story (s,that “ns St, Mark was walking ia Alexandria, he burst the stitehing of 
‘Lip shoe, t0 that he could not proceed till it was rupaired ; the nearvat cobbler 
‘was the man, und he mended the shoe or sandal, or whatever it was, This man 
‘was taught the gospel by St. Mark; he aftorwards taught athery, and actually 
became the first pontiff of Alexandria, that is to way, tho first rogrular toncher of 
‘= fow poor people at Alexandria, who, peradventure, had vo other cathedral 
than o gurret. A teacher of primitive Ciristlanity Is not to be confounded with 
‘© patriarch of Alexandria." This Inst account certainly conveys a very dif- 
forent idea of the case than the language employed by Butler, which ls rather 
calculated to decelye ; for although both authors agree us to the humble origin 
‘of Anianus, who afterwards became a teacher of religion, the former of them 
Jeaves upon our mind an impression that the Christian religion was fully 
‘established asd freed from all itn difficaltion ; whereas it was restrained at that 
‘vory timo by the shackles of tyranay, and labouring undor all kinds of perseeu~ 
tions Frequently the early Christian pastors, who wereall poor and lowly men, 
‘wore even obliged to assemble thelr followers by stealth—and such was the 
great church alluded to by Butler. ‘The black deeds that marked the reign of 
‘Nero ennnot surely he forgotten : and the condition of the church at the period 
fo which Matlor refers, was any thing but great, whatever it might ufterwards 
have become. 

‘Dr, Clarke says sixty-six foot high, and seven square. 
§ The pastures at the foot of the oli close to the east of the city aro sup= 


ro be the place where St. Mark suffered. 
Robinson's Eeclesinatical Researches, 42. 








CLEOPATRA'S NEEDLES. 89 


which, however, has lost its florid red colour, and be- 
come pale, in consequence of the partial decomposition 
of the feldspar. One of them is still standing, and is 
said to have been presented to the French by Mo- 
hammed Ali. ‘The other, which is the best of the two, 
notwithstanding it has been thrown down, was in like 
manner given to the English; and I believe it was 
once contemplated to bring it to this country: but for 
some reason not explained, the order which had been 
given, was suddenly countermanded, and the sailors 
were prohibited assisting in the work. It would require 
a very considerable sum of money to remove it ; and, 
in my opinion, it would be more correct taste to Jet it 
remain where it is. As no further steps have been 
taken concerning it, and as the French have lately con- 
yeyed to Paris, a much larger obelisque, (from Lixor 
in the Thebaid,) the consideration of the subject in 
this place, may possibly be productive of good ! 

There can be no doubt, that so interesting and im- 
portant a relic ought to be zealously preserved from 
sacrilegious hands; and when I was in Egypt, I re- 
garded its neglected condition with no ordinary feelings. 
I thought it a great reproach to any scientific nation 
to allow so fine a monument of antiquity to remain 
half buried in the sand, and, of course, imperfectly 
seen :—to say nothing of the risk to which it was con~ 
stantly exposed. Now, to our great mortification, ine 
telligence has been received, that the pedestal on which 
the obelisque formerly stood, has been broken in picces 
and carried away as materials to repair the harbour! 
We are not told by whose order. If the Pascha had 
commanded it to be done, the whole would probably 
have been taken—not the pedestal only ; and it is not 
very likely that the Arabs would trouble themselves to 





90 THOUGHTS ON THE PROTECTION AND 


cut through the hardest granite when there was abun- 
dance of lime‘stone among the ruins, which would 
cause them so much less labour. Many years ago, 
when the Alexandrian obelisque was presented by the 
Pascha to the English Government, a tablet bearing an 
inscription commemorative of the valour of the British 
army, was placed under it, together with some coins ; 
ut strange to say, the obelisque which was then lying 
on the ground, has been suffered to remain in the same 
position ever since. As soon as the English consul 
heard that such an unwarrantable attack had been 
made upon it, and that the tablet was in danger, he 
caused the latter to be removed to his house; but he 
was not in time to save the coins,—they were already 
stolen, It is not for me io say who it was that injured 
the pedestal, and exposed the tablet to risk and insult. 
‘The Arabs bear us no animosity, they prefer us to every 
other nation; and I am satisfied they would not have 
done this without orders from some party or other. 
We may congratulate ourselves that the obelisque has 
sustained no greater damage, and certainly something 
should be done to prevent the repetition of such depre~ 
dations. The “Needles of Cleopatra” are not only 
to be ranked with the finest monuments of their kind, 
but one of them especially, as a memorial of British 
valour, deserves to be defended from the hands of the 
spoiler, who may find motives for offering it indignities ! 
We have been charged with lukewarmness and apathy, 
for not causing this stupendous and unrivalled trophy 
to be erected in London, asit would then be calculated 
to keep alive the recollection of that effectual blow, 
which was given by the English army to the ambition 
of Napoleon. In the metropolis, we do not require 
such a memento; and it may be questionable how far 





REMOVAL OF ROYPTIAN MONUMENTS. 91 


we are justified in thus triumphing over our enemies. 
War is sometimes unavoidable ; but it is always to be 
lamented : and it is surely vain glory to be continually 
reminding our neighbours that they were beaten. His- 
tory will do that; and as we are the, conquerors, 1 
think we should act much more nobly were we to let 
the obelisque be preserved where it now is, in memory 
of those of the contending parties, who shed their blood 
upon the spot. 

Much as I desire to see my country enriched with 
whatever is valuable or excellent, I cannot subscribe to 
the opinion which advocates the transportation of these 
interesting relics. As long as they remain on their 
own soil, they are classically important ; but the mo- 
ment they cross the seas, their interest in a great de- 
gree ceases; they are converted into toys and puppets— 
mere objects of curiosity; and as such they are re- 
garded by the astonished multitude; for few under- 
stand the hieroglyphics, and they are appreciated only 
by the connoisseur and the historian: whereas in the 
East, they call forth the most delightful associations, 
and they are in character both with the climate and 
with the other antique monuments around them. In 
Egypt, they have stood for ages, and might do so 
again: if they have suffered, it has been rather by the 
hand of man than of time; and I am quite sure that 
those who resided long enough in the country to be 
able really to appreciate its antiquities, would be the 
very last persons who would wish to see them removed. 
Whether we regard “ Cleopatra's Needle” as a speci- 
men of the antique, as a testimonial of “British glory,” 
or as a monument to the deceased, all association must 
be spoiled when we behold it surrounded by the hum 
sind ad of a crowded city. It would be quite out 





92 FRENCH INGENUITY.—DR. WARNE'S 


of place, and the sum of money which it would cost to 
bring it hither, would be sufficient to erect a splendid 
national monument, interesting to all, and calculated 
to advance the érue glory of England, by encouraging 
the arts and sciences at home! 

Instead, then, of removing the obelisque, I would 
have it reinstated upon its original site, and having 
cleared away the rubbish from its vicinity, 1 would 
preserve, in a conspicuous situation, a handsome tablet, 
with a suitable inseription to the memory of the de- 
ceased in arms; and surround the whole by an ap- 
propriate ballustrade. In this way, I conceive, the 
honour of our army and navy, and of all who value 
their important services in Egypt, would be far better 
perpetuated, and with better taste, than if the monu- 
ment were to be banished from the scene of those 
proud deeds of which we boast, and to be transported 
to a region where, sooner or later, it would fall a sacri- 
fice to the ravages of a very variable climate. 

Much has been said about the skill and ingenuity 
which the French displayed in transporting the Laxor 
Obelisque to Europe. It was certainly a most arduous 
undertaking, and reflects great credit upon them for 
the manner in which the work was accomplished. 
Their eagerness in collecting Egyptian curiosities has 
also been spoken of. Iam sorry I cannot say much 
in their favour on this head ; for when anything was to 
be got, they have sometimes evinced but little modesty, 
and even a great want of courtesy towards other travel- 
lers, which is very unbecoming, especially in men of 
science, ‘That they are not always very scrupulous, 
will appear, I think, in the course of this narrative, and 
the following circumstance also tends to illustrate, 

In July, 1830, the “ Dromedaire,” a large French 





EXERTIONS IN THE CAUSE OF SCIENCE. 93 


store-ship, came to Alexandria, in order, as I under- 
stood, to make arrangements with the French consul, re- 
lative to the removal of one of “Cleopatra’s Needles,” 
and the obelisque which, as I have stated, has since 
been conveyed to Paris,—and I was more than once 
in company with the gentleman who was officially 
charged with this business. Mr. Barker informed me, 
that one day, whilst these arrangements were making, 
the French consul came to him, and very unceremo- 
niously set forth, that “as the English had so long 
neglected the Pascha's present, they seemed in a 
manner to have relinquished all claim to it,"—curious 
reasoning, by the bye|—“and that, as the ‘ Dromedaire” 
had come to fetch one of the ‘needles,’ they might as 
well take away the other also!” 

It is really much to be lamented that circumstances 
have permitted either the French or any other nation 
to remove so many things from Egypt as they have 
done, without any authentic public document being 
kept of the modern history and future destination of 
objects which relate to the hieroglyphics. Until lately, 
there has been no museum in the country, and thus 
have interesting monuments been defaced, and a va- 
riety of valuable antiques carried off at the caprice of 
individuals, and scattered through the world, no man 
knows where.* They may have been preserved or 
not; but no sort of classification or connexion has 
been attended to, nor has any account been kept of 
them; so that they can be of comparatively little use 
to their possessors, and still less to science, since those 

* De. Ware, who was appointed Bnglish Viee-cousul in Calro, when Col. 
Campbell was Consul General, greatly to his credit, Intarfered, and did bis ut 
most to prevent anthquities being taken away. He succeeded also tn establish~ 


ing a Litorary Institution at Cairo, und 1 hope that all the authoritien will in 
futoro render it thelr united support. 





94 EGYPTIAN LITERATURE. 


who are prosecuting the study of the hicroglyphies 
have no opportunity of consulting them either person- 
ally or otherwise. What I so much regret is now 
irremediable; but henceforth it would be quite possible 
to establish some such record, through the medium of 
the several consuls and agents. The advantages of a 
plan of this kind are obvious. At present we know 
very little of Egyptian literature; such documents, if 
properly connected and arranged, might furnish a clue 
to future discoveries; whereas, in their present isolated 
state, the various objects which have been brought to 
Europe avail us nothing: they serve but to adorn our 
shelves as mere antiques, and to be gazed at by the 
curious; for though their meaning may be often guessed 
at and commented on by the learned, it is perhaps as 
little understood as the present condition of the lost 
tribes of Israel. This is a question of some moment, 
for there remains a great deal more to be discovered 
concerning the temples and antiquities of Egypt than 
has ever yet been brought to light ; and, in proportion 
as our acquaintance with the subject may increase, so 
may we hope to know more about the early history of 
Arabia, Persia, Mesopotamia, and the interior of India, 
from which latter source the Egyptians, the Greeks 
and Romans, and subsequently ourselves, have in turn 
derived an enlightened condition. 

Nobody can travel in Egypt without feeling trans- 
ported at every step. We are more and more im- 
pressed with the truth of Holy Writ, and the light of 
conviction illumines the understanding as the morning 
sun dissipates the vapours of the night. Let us only 
examine with an unbiassed mind, and we shall be sur- 
prised at the facilities afforded us; the pages of the 
Old Testament will be unfolded to view, and many 





EGYPT AND HOLY WRIT. 95 


passages, which seemed to be obscure before, will now 
become intelligible and plain. 

Perhaps there is no country in the world which, if 
properly considered, is better calculated to remove 
Prejudice, and open our eyes to the fulfilment of 
ancient prophecy, than Egypt. We cannot, therefore, 
be too careful to watch over these interesting records 
of the past : our object should be to protect them from 
harm ; but if we take them away, we destroy the chain 
of evidence. us then rather enlighten the rulers 
of Egypt, con them of the necessity of preserving 
these things inviolate, and divest them at the same 
time of the absurd idea which they entertain about the 
existence of hidden treasure. No one who has ac- 
quired the slightest taste for Egyptian literature can be 
otherwise than grieved when he hears of the country 


being stripped of its monuments; for they have always 
been, and still are the wonder of the world; and with 
all our civilization and boasted modern improvements, 
there is that to be seen in Egypt which is far beyond 
the comprehension of the brightest intellect. 





CHAPTER IV. 


ALEXANDRIA. — STATISTICS AND RESOURCES, — PRO- 
CEEDINGS OF MOHAMMED ALI.—EGYPTIAN MARINE. 
—THE ARMY.—CLIMATE AND DISEASE.—INCIDENTS. 
—RECORDS OF THE PAST, ko, 


We returned home much datightal™ with our ex- 
cursion, but chafed from the heat and the jolting of 
the donkeys. We took refuge on the divan, and 
having dispatched a “ pilaf,” * were regaling ourselves 
with a quiet “t’chibouque,” f some coffee, and a 
modest cup of Cyprus, when we received a visit from 
Mr. Chas. Barker, who came to conduct me to Mr. 
Harris and other merchants to whom I hed brought 
letters. We passed the evening at Mr. Gliddon’s, had 
some interesting conversation about the country, and 
retired early to bed, but not to sleep; for it was ex- 
cessively hot, and the fleas were both numerous and 
nimble. They seemed to have a pretty good under- 
standing too, with their friends and contemporaries, the 
mosquitoes, which opened upon us right and left, as 
soon as the light was extinguished; and kept up an 
incessant whizz, the whole night through. Towards 
morning, we both fell into a dose; for the fleas and 
the flies began to get tired, and went to roost. We 

* A standing dich in the East, consisting of rico bolled in the Indian fashion, 
{n the liquor ia which » chicken tins been cooked. The chicken belng smothered 
‘with the rice, the whole le well soaked in butter, and seasoned. Sometimes 
smnull pieces of rolled meat are substituted for the chicken, and garnished with 
onions of tomate, 

+ The torm givon to the long Egyptian pipe. 





BOGHOS YOUSSOUF. 7 


awoke weary, irritable, and feverish, as a matter of 
course, and fain would we have encroached a little on 
the day; but being once fairly roused, we found it 
impossible, on account of the continued din and busile 
without. 

As soon as breakfast was over, I went to the Seraglio 
Point, to pay a visit to Boghos Bey—cunning Boghos 
—Boghos Youssouf, the Pascha’s first Drogueman, and 
Minister of Commerce in Alexandria: a shrewd, crafty, 
subtle, calculating fellow, who is constantly at His 
Highness’ elbow; a very conyenient, useful, scheming, 
and effective sort of machine. I had brought a letter 
to him from his brother, a merchant in Trieste; and to 
whom he has secured by his influence, the principal 
part of the trade between the two ports. 

I was conducted to a building contiguous to the 
new palace, set aside for business, and the residence 
of various officers. Here I was shown into a large 
room, with several windows, and very little furniture ; 
indeed nothing but a divan extending along three sides 
of the apartment, and some matting on the floor. 
After waiting a short time, enter Signor Boghos, a tall, 
pale, care-worn, meagre-looking personage, dressed in 
the Jong loose Syrian d’goobba, shawl, and turban ; 
and bearing in his girdle a handsome silver ink-case, 
peculiar to the countries of the East. It is made to 
contain also the pens, which consist of reeds, and 
answer very well, as they best suit the form of the 
Arabic characters, which bave no fine strokes, and re- 
quire to be written from right to left, I rose on his 
admission. He motioned me to be seated; placed 
himself in a corner of the divan, and eyed me from 
head to foot. Thus, Ecce Boghos! the celebrated 
Boghos, whose very manner and appearance marked 

VOL. 1. u 





98 CANDIDATES FOR OFFICE. 


the character and calling of the individual. He was 
ecremonious ; and at first, [ thought, more distant than 
was to be attributed to the cold habits even of such 
men. Supposing that, like other adventurers, 1 had 
some interested scheme on foot, he asked me “In 
what capacity | wished to serve?” “In no capacity 
at all,” I replied, and gave him to understand that I 
was merely travelling for information and amusement. 
“And do not want to enter the Pascha’s service?” 
* Certainly not.” Immediately his countenance bright- 
ened up, and his manner changed. Accustomed to 
continual solicitations from an endless variety of Euro- 
peans who visited Egypt, only to probe the depth of 
the Pascha’s pocket,—without reflecting upon the con- 
tents of his brother’s letter, he jumped to the conclu- 
sion that I only came there, like the rest, for what I 
could get; but the moment he was undeceived, he 
grew civil, screwed his mouth into a smile, and ten- 
dered his services with great politeness. He bowed, 
he promised, he acknowledged the favor I had con- 
ferred on him by calling, ordered pipes and coffee, and 
begged to know what he could do to serve me, ke. &e. 
I told him I wanted to see Mohammed Ali, and [bra- 
him: and that I should be glad of any letters, firmauns,} 
teskerths,* and the like, which he thought might be 
useful to me in prosecuting my journey. He then 
questioned me as to the precise nature of the object 
which I had in view. 1 told him, that “in addition to 
the antiquities, and the institutions established by Mo- 
hammed Ali, of which in Europe we had heard so 
much, I felt chiefly interested about the diseases of 
the climate; and that if I met with the plague, I 
should doubtless have enough to do.” For a moment 


* Passport, receipt, or other officiil document. 
t Royal decree, permit, or passport. 





DIPLOMATIC CIVILITIES. 99 


his countenance betrayed surprise; but his features 
soon recovered their wonted state of rigid apathy. He 
remarked that the people would be very glad of my 
services, and that he would insure me a good recep- 
tion wherever I went; but that although there was 
always a great deal of fever and other bad complaints, 
they had seen very little of the true plague in Egypt, 
during the last six or seven years. He promised, and 
afterwards sent me, letters of introduction to Habbeb 
Effendi, the Pascha’s Prime Minister, and Monsieur 
Walmas, his chief interpreter at Cairo, various per- 
sons about the arsenal, the dock yard, &e.; and 
offered to introduce me to Ibrahim, who was then 
with the fleet, and likewise to Mohammed Ali, if he 
came to Alexandria as was expected. He also gave 
me instructions about the new palace, which I had no 
difficulty in inspecting. 

‘This man is descended from an ancient Armenian 
family. He has been a long time in the Viceroy’s 
service. His duty is strictly to attend to all com- 
mercial affairs, presentations, and the like; he dis- 
tributes the Pascha’s orders, and is, in fact, the 
obsequious instrument of his authority and caprice. Of 
course he possesses his confidence. But to show 


How poor indeed * ho 
Who builds on princes’ Gryoury™— 


it is related (and the account is to be depended on), 
that some years ago, having given offence, in conse- 
quence of the failure of a scheme which perhaps he 
had recommended before it was sufficiently matured, 
the Pascha in a paroxysm of rage, 
“ Heaped curses on his head,” 
and condemned friend Boghos, to a cold bath at mid- 
night. But the manner of the bath was not exactly 
suited to his taste; and only being a Mussulmaun by 
n2 





100 THE DANGERS OF THE GREAT. 


profession, he would rather have performed bis ablu- 
tions in his own way, and at a more convenient season. 
He began to entertain scrious thoughts of recanting 5 
for he did not at all relish the idea of bathing in sack- 
cloth by moonlight, beneath the Pharos rocks. It was 
allowed by all to be a dangerous place, and many had 
taken “a dip” there, and not returned. ** What!” 
said he, “is this my reward for past services? Is it 
come to this?” But he was interrupted, and re- 
minded that the executioner was waiting to conduct 
him to the rocks! And, sure enough, there he was, 
sack in hand: and we are informed that our friend the 
minister was actually put into it, and would have been 
cast into the sea, but for the timely interference of an 
individual whom Boghos had formerly assisted, and 
who being now invested with authority, had it in his 
power to show his gratitude, by saving his benefactor’s 
life at the risk of his own.* It was duly reported to 
the Pascha that Boghos was no more ; and His High- 
ness was led to believe that his orders had been im- 
plieitly obeyed. Time passed on; Boghos kept out 
of the way; and although circumstances often re- 
called him to the Pascha’s mind, (for he had been in 
the habit of consulting him on a great variety of 
matters), some months elapsed before he was seriously 
missed by him. Boghos had been a very useful sort 
of person in his vocation, and things did not work 
quite so well without him. Sometimes, when put to 
any great inconvenience, the Pascha would exclaim, 
“Tf Boghos had been here now, this would not have 
happened !'"—and then he would pace the room, and 


® It ls nasortod, that the porton hore alluded to, is M, Walmaa, who accreted 
Boghor in his house, wntil the danger was over: but the man who wns to have 
executed the Puscha's will, disappeared from that moment, and has tever 
tou heard of since. It is not known whether he suffered for his disobedience, 
‘or whether he absconded. 





ANECDOTE OF BOGIIOS BEY. 101 


knit his brow, and utter imprecations against those 
who had put his hasty decree in execution; though it 
was more the inconvenience that he felt at Boghos’ 
death than all the “love he bore him," which called 
forth these “sad expressions of his grief.” At last 
a circumstance occurred which caused him to lament 
his death exceedingly; and in all the violence of 
humour, he used such strong language, that those who 
had been instrumental in the minister's reputed death, 
began to dread the consequences, lest they might one 
day suffer in the same way. It was evident the Pascha 
regretted what he had done, and perhaps he thought 
with King John, that though 
Ho had had good causa 
‘To wish tim deed, thot they had nino to kill biz :” 
and had not they perhaps just then been by, 


“This murder had not come into his mind | 
How aft the sight of means to do Ill deeds, 
‘Makes deeds il) done!" 


Tt in the curse of kings, to be nttented 

By slaves, hat take thelr humours for « warrant 

‘To break within the bloody house of Life: 

And, on the winking of authority, 

‘To understand a law; to know the meaning 

Of dangerous majesty, when, perchance i frowns 

‘More upou humour than sdvis'd 

King John Act IV. Scene % 
Thus then it was with Mobammed Ali; he felt the 

meaning of these words though he never heard them, 
and in temperate accents he opened his mind to one 
who was now in his favor, and who had been privy to 
Boghos’s rescue. ‘Thus we might fancy him to say, 
and with great sincerity, 

 Hadst thon but dared to shake thy head, or pause, 

‘When K spako darkly what 1 parposed ; 

Or turn'd an eye of doubt upon my facet 

L hind repented, ere it was too Inte, 


Aud so preserved & faithful minister, 
Buk thou didst understand me by my signs, 
3 





DESPOTISM —EXPEDIENCY—ORUELTY. 


And let thy rude hand act the bloody dead 
Which I 10 much zogret and would roeall! 
Out of my aight, and never eee mo more f" 


Whether it was the dread of the Pascha's displeasure, 
or the loss of the rank and office which he himself 
then held,—the fayorite, both for his own sake and 
that of his friend, (yet dreading the issue of so doubt- 
ful an experiment,) was anxious to do something to 
appease His Highness’ anger; and thus with great 
craftiness, and caution, he ventured to insinuate that 
it was not impossible that Boghos might have escaped, 
and that if permitted, he would examine all those to 
whom the execution of the deed had been intrusted ; 
that he himself had certainly seen him in the sack, 
but that all things were possible to ‘Allah !”” 

The experiment succeeded; the Pascha was softened, 
and the favorite went on, He had a difficult game to 
play, but then he had well considered the disposition 
of his master; he knew that ambition was his pre- 
dominant passion, and that where his interest was 
concerned, he sacrificed “all feeling else.” Besides, 
he was not wantonly barbarous ; and though a tyrant, 
and reckless of human life when he had any great 
object to accomplish, he was not, like the Schah* of 
Persia, cruel for eruelty's sake. Moreover, he set 
some value on his own services; and daring to pre- 
sume upon the present pliable condition of the Pascha’s 
mind, and the emergency of the occasion, (the talents 
of Boghos being particularly missed at that time,) he 
ventured to hint that he was not altogether without his 

* Nadir —who exultingly turned over the eyed of his numarovs prisoners with 
the handle of hin riding whip, as thoy lay inn dish before hiro, and added 
those of ono of his officers (who, thinking to ploase, had suggested the idea of 
taklog the eyes of the captive prince) to make up the umber required, coolly 
remarking, “No! but yours will do as well!" —Or of the despot who, at 


banquet, after he had taken wine, wantonly shot a slave through the heart to 
prove to his guest that his hand was steady! 





A PRIEND IN NEED! 103. 


suspicions from circumstances that had been vaguely 
reported to him, that Boghos had, by some unaccount- 
able means or other, contrived to escape ; that in fact, 
a sack had been thrown up by the sea and left upon 
the rocks; that upon examination, it was found to 
contain the body of a man, though not of the Minis- 
ter; but that as this was only a mere report, and as be 
had not been able to ascertain from what source it 
came, or whether any such circumstance had really 
transpired, he did’ not deem it necessary to lay the 
matter before His Highness, until such time as he had 
been able to learn more concerning it; in order that 
the contrivers of such a deep-laid, artful plot might be 
apprehended, and punished, as all should be, who pre- 
sume to set at nought and despise His Highness’s 
commands! 

In this strain he proceeded, feeling his way as he 
went, and as long as he considered himself justified in 
speaking boldly, he pleaded Boghos’ cause; until at 
last he heard the Pascha declare that if the ci-devant 
Minister could be found he should be re-instated and 
freely forgiven. The wily favorite said that no pains 
should be spared to seek him out; and after as long a 
pause as was deemed expedient, the hiding place of 
his friend was vacated for the Divan, where he was 
allowed to repose unmolested, and the errors of the 
past were forgotten. 

On my return home, I found Bradford eloseted with 
one whose appearance was any thing but prepossessing. 
He was fifty years of age, shabbily dressed in black : 
his linen not over clean, bis hair uncombed ; the per- 
spiration was running down his cheeks, and he had a 
beard three days old. His address was equally un- 
favorable: having a peculiar hesitating accent and 
absence of manner which could not be mistaken. The 


: 





104 THE REY. JOSEPH WOLFF. 


tout ensemble was such, that when be came into the 
room, Bradford continued his writing, and did not 
even ask him to sit down. As his visit was to me, 
he told him very unceremoniously that I should be in 
soon, if he chose to wait! On which he became very 
fidgety, walked about the room, muttering to himself 
and wiping his forehead, A ridiculous scene ensued, 
and he had but just divulged his name, when I arrived. 
Bradford, all abashed, was apologizing for his conduct, 
and trying to do the agreeable. On entering, I partly 
caught these words—* I will be very glad if Dr. Yates 
comes quickly here: my dear wife and my friend are 
both very bad in my house :"—then seeing me, he 
added—* Oh! Sir, I much rejoice you are come: 
dear Lady Georgiana wishes very particularly to see 
you!” I wondered who my extraordinary visitor could 
be, and, equally at a loss to guess what Lady Georgi- 
ana it was that desired my acquaintance ; I looked first 
at the speaker and then at my friend for an explana- 
tion. The name was enough. The character of Mr. 
Joseph Wolff, the Missionary, was too well known not 
to command respect. I knew him to be a very eccen- 
tric person, and a great enthusiast: but nevertheless 
a well meaning and learned man. 1 was forthwith 
conducted to the grand “ Okellah,” and presented to 
Lady Georgiana Walpole, or rather Wolff, who was 
ill. IT was next introduced to the friend of whom 
mention had been made, a Doctor B——by birth a 
Pole, also a Protestant missionary; and like Mr. 
Wolff, a great linguist, and a very singular but worthy 
individual. Poor fellow! he was lying in a most pre- 
carious state; and his appearance was truly remarkable. 
He had a very long, light, bushy beard ; his face looked 
pale, his cheeks hollow, his eyes dim and glassy, and 
sunk in his head; and the edges of the lids red. 





RELIGIOUS DISPUTATIONS- 105 


His lips were parched, his tongue was brown and hard, 
and his complexion pasty and dull. The fever had 
evidently made considerable progress, and his consti- 
tution was beginning to give way. Nevertheless I 
found the bed covered with Arabic books, and he was 
disputing with both Copts and Egyptians, on subjects 
connected with religion. He was highly excited in 
consequence; but did not seem to be at all sensible 
that he was adding fuel to the fire that was inwardly 
consuming him. Mr. Wolff, than whom a more 
humane man does not exist, perceiving his condition, 
sought me out, contrary fo his wish or consent. As 
soon as the room was cleared of the kind friends” 
who in their zeal for religion, regarded not the wasted 
form before them, the sick man gazing vacantly at 
me, gave me to understand that he had “no faith in 
medicine’—but his measured, tremulous accents told 
that he was not in a state to form an opinion upon 
any subject. He was one of those who entertained 
very peculiar notions: he had been a most indefati- 
gable student, and was extremely ardent in whatever 
he undertook. This wasa point, however, which I was 
not at all disposed to discuss just then ; and believing 
that the most persuasive argument I could use would 
be, ta get him well, I appeared to humour him a little, 
remarking that unfortunately physicians were not al- 
ways able to cure their patients, but that it was surely 
some satisfaction to them to find that they could 
assuage thirst, relieve pain, or produce sleep, I 
reminded him that a variety of drugs were wisely sent 
for our use ; and that upon the same principle as a 
dog, when ill, would abstain from food, and eat grass, 
so ought we to exercise our reason in the application 
of those medicines which a kind Providence has 
placed at our disposol. His resolution at first 





106 “THE CHAMBER OF THE SICK 


seemed shaken; but he did not approve of the re- 
medics I proposed to employ, so I could not overcome 
his prejudices. He said he was exhausted, and wished 
me to try some other plan. As I could not consci- 
entiously do this, I very reluctantly left him. 

‘The next morning, Mr. Wolff came to me in haste, 
to say that he was worse, and begged me to visit him 
again. In hot climates it will not do to trifle with 
disease,—promptness and firmness are absolutely ne- 
cessary ; therefore I did not yield to the patient’s 
entreaties to fry something else. However, I again 
went to see him. In spite of all I had said, I found 
the bed still covered with books, and the room full of 
people, who, according to the custom of the country, 
had come to cheer the sick man’s spirits. He was 
now alarmed, ond evidently worse; what I had pre- 
dicted had come to pass, and he began to wish that he 
had taken my advice: “If I could cure you by talis« 
manic means,” said I, as the Arabs pretend, I would 
do so. You are a learned man; but you are too 
much excited by disease and talking to exercise your 
judgment, and your memory is affected, or you would 
not need to be reminded of the Arab proverb, which 
says, ‘The chamber of the sick is the physician's 
kingdom.’ Again, ‘A king should be the father of 
his people, and whoso trusteth in him will he not 
deceive.’ As then a good man chasteneth his son 
whom he loyveth, so left I you to your own reflections; 
for you rebelled against me yesterday, and refused to 
hearken unto my words. I hope you are satisfied, 
since you will only learn by experience. Listen now 
to what the Persians say:—t The drugs of the phy- 
sician may sometimes give more pain than the disease 
they are meant to cure ; but it is a wholesome pain, 
and tends to health and comfort.’ Remember too, 





THE PHYSICIAN'S KINGDOM.” 107 


that “healing cometh of the Most High, who hath 
given men skill that He might be honoured in his mar- 
yellous works.” Do not then refuse the proffered 
blessing. “ Behold!" says the preacher, “the Lord 
hath created medicines out of the earth, and he that is 
wise will not abhor them. Then give place to the 
physician: for the Lord hath created him :—let him 
not go from thee, for thou hast need of him. ‘There 
is a time, when in their hands there is good success :-— 
for they shall also pray unto the Lord that he would 
prosper that which they give for ease and remedy to 
prolong life!”* He was completely humbled, and pro- 
mised that if I would come and see him, he would 
submit to anything I pleased. Fortunately, it was not 
too late to follow out the plan I at first proposed, and 
he recovered. 

A few months afterwards, I was talking with an 
individual in a crowded bazaar; some one touched me 
on the shoulder. Turning suddenly round, I was 
accosted by a venerable-looking person with a huge 
folio volume under his arm. He gazed at me for 
some moments without speaking. At length, “ Have 
you then for-got-ten your un-ruly patient ?” said he, 
pausing between each word in bis own peculiar way. 
His accents could not be mistaken: they were indeed 
the same; but so altered was he who uttered them, 
that although I now recognized the long, light, flowing 
beard, and the light grey eye, I could hardly persuade 
myself that in the patriarchal, active form before me, 
I beheld the emaciated, dull, and ghastly frame of him 
to whose aid I had been called only a few short months 
ago. He shook me impressively by the hand, and 
thanked me that I did not give way to his vagaries, 
adding, “J per-ceive, sir, that a little learn-ing is a 

* Vide Koclesiasticus, chap, xxiii, verses 110, 





108 THE NEW PORT, PHAROS TOWER, AND CATACOMBS. 


dan-ger-ous thing!” So saying, he left me. He is 
now in England, in the enjoyment of good health. 

In speaking of these matters, I cannot withhold my 
gratitude from those who, in whatever part of the 
world 1 happened to be, were ready to co-operate with 
me in attendance on the sick ; those of the other sex 
especially, who, so far from shrinking from the office, 
and retiring in disgust or fear, evinced a degree of 
fortitude and presence of mind that was truly astonish= 
ing, and I need hardly say how eminently their sympa- 
thy and friendly attentions contributed to the consolation 
and ultimate recovery of the parties in whom they felt 
interested. 

What is called the New Port of Alexandria is little 
else than an open bay. It is very much exposed to 
the north winds, and the riding for ships is yery bad. 
There are about six or eight fathoms water; but 
there is seldom anything to be seen there beyond an 
Arab d’germ or ma’as, which varies from about 15 to 
50 and 100 tons. It is formed chiefly by a long 
narrow point of land which stretches into the sea, and 
is terminated by the square castle of the Pharos, with 
its light-tower at the end of a long mole, built of stone 
and onarches. ‘The light is very insignificant, and not 
well attended to,—very different from that which was 
so famous in the days of the Ptolemies, and which has 
given a name to those in other parts even in modern 
times. Thus we still talk of the Pharos or Faro of 
Messina. But the famous tower of the Pharos at 
Alexandria was built of white marble; it had several 
stories, and we read that it could be seen 100 miles at 
sea. It was also adorned with columns, balustrades, 
and galleries, and was considered one of the wonders 
of the world, It is said to have cost 800 talents 
building, that is, about 165,007. 





BRICK-MAKING—THE CANOPIC GATE. 109 


Old Hamed conducted us to sce the Catacombs of 
the old city, which are very extensive, and situated 
about a mile to the westward. ‘They are quite ina 
Tuinous state, and have been stripped of all their orna- 
ments. Some parts of them have at times afforded 
shelter to certain of the inhabitants; but generally 
speaking, no use is made of them ; the proper entrance 
is unknown, and there are myriads of bats, and plenty 
of dogs and jackals. They are likewise over-run with 
enormous rats, not unlike kangaroos, These excava- 
tions are of a calcareous nature, and they are believed 
to have been made originally for the sake of the stone, 
though afterwards applied to the purposes of the dead. 
There are many similar tombs of minor consideration 
along the shore to the westward. 

Llooked in vain for any thing that could be imagined 
as the site of the ancient library: there are ruins 
enough, but none that bear any traces that the fancy 
could refer to such an origin. Wherever we went, the 
ground had the same hollow sound, and was strewed 
with broken shafts and scraps of Roman pottery. It 
is curious, that although the Egyptians were formerly 
celebrated for their potteries, and among all the 
tuins in Egypt we see heaps of excellent bricks, the 
art of brick-making seems to have been almost for- 
gotten, and the Bristol brought out several thou- 
sand bricks from England, and two bricklayers to in- 
struct others. We wound our way between mounds 
of rubbish, and at length emerged into what may be 
considered one of the principal streets of the old town, 
and which may one day again become important. 
Pliny tells us, that from the gate of the sea ran one 
broad magnificent street, the whole length of the city, 
to what was called the Canopic Gate,* commanding a 


* The origtaal situation of the Cunopie Gate I believe to be now marked by 
4 mass of sand and rubbish, through which a road lns been eut about a quar= 





110 SITR OF THE OLD TOWN—FELLAHERN WOMEN 


view at each end, of the shipping, either in the Medi- 
terranean or in the Mareotie Lake; and that this 
street was crossed by another of equal length, at right 
angles. We learn also that the city extended along 
the southern shores of the Lake Mareotis, We kept 
along what is now the principal and widest track, and 
pursuing an easterly course, arrived at the Rosetta gate, 
after passing a variety of indistinct masses of ruins, 
among which were either to be seen a group of half 
famished dogs and jackals, or else a number of dirty, 
naked children, some even eight and nine years of age, 
running about or basking in the sun, The women were 
sitting in detached parties among the sand, in small 
enclosed spaces, near to a portion of excavated ruin, 
the remains of a reservoir, or else a hut, which had 
been constructed by their lords and masters, partly of 
straw, and partly of the rubbish. Their faces were 
half obscured by a black mask, rather than a veil, sus- 
pended from the centre of the forehead, by a tape or 
cord over the nose, and thus concealing the lower part 
of the face ; they wore nothing but a simple blue che- 
mise of coarse cotton, loose, and open nearly to the 
waist. Such were the inhabitants of these frail tene- 
ments :—they seemed to have nothing to do, but thus 
to sit about in groups, their infants hanging at the 
breast, and to prepare their scanty meal upon a still 
more scanty fire made of dried camel’s dung upon the 
earth, and fanned by the their food seldom 
amounting to more than a few lentils, and now and 
then a little rice and some dates. Their bread consists 
commonly of rough bean or oaten flour, made into a 
ter of a mile beyond the Rosetta Gate, at the very extremity of the ruins, and 
Just before wo enter upon tho Desert, or Plains of Aboukir; s range of sand 


hills being on the right (occupied by the French at the battle of Alexandsla) 
Lake Marcotie being In the distance, and the sea and Carsar's Palace on the left. 





ARAB HUTS—CITY ODT-WORKS. dL 


paste with water and a little salt, and perhaps mixed 
with white sour Arab cheese, and kneaded into cakes and 
burnt unfermented upon the ashes. Sometimes they 
contrive to procure a few black olives, a little honey, 
some gourd, or a pastek (water melon). The flies 
by day swarm beyond all conception; and it was no 
uncommon thing to see a litle child rolling in the dirt, 
literally covered with them, attracted by the filthy ac- 
cumulations of its body—habit seemed to have dimi- 
nished the sensibility of the skin, and to all appearance, 
Z was more annoyed as a beholder than they as the 
actors in the scene. I have seen them both sleeping 
and waking, a complete black rim or ridge of flies 
pointing out the form and situation of the eyes and 
nostrils; they find it quite useless to drive the flies 
away, for they instantly settle again to fatten on the 
exuberance of neglected infancy :—presenting, 1 think, 
one of the most disgusting but extraordinary sights 
that could be witnessed ; and this is really not an ex- 
aggerated account—I could go on, and tell more, but 
I think this will suffice for once. 

We passed the Rosetta Gate without impediment, 
Numerous additions have been made to the stone walls 
and out-works formerly repaired and fortified by the 
French. They inclose a very considerable space, which 
is still unoecupied by buildings. We continued in the 
same direction, and after a little, began to ascend, 
having before us, the supposed site of the Canopic 
gate, and on our right, the range of sand-hills, said to 
have been the position occupied by the French, (in 
force about 6000,) under General Menou, on the 13th 
of March, 1801, at the early part of the famous battle 
of Alexandria, which was marked by the death of our 
illustrious countryman, Abercrombie. From these hills 
we had a most extensive view of the whole district,— 





112 THE HEIGHTS OF MARROTIS. 


Around us were heaps of sand and a crude mass of 
ruins, or rubbish rather than ruins, for we are apt to 
associate with the idea of ruins something like decayed 
buildings ; but here there did not seem to be one stone 
left upon another. Further off, we had, first the 
modern walls and gates which we had just passed ; 
then a few detached houses, the residence of the Franks, 
and in the distance, a mere confused mass of build- 
ings constituting the present town of Alexandria, from 
which arose the only few remains, of its ancient mag- 
nificence, towering above the whole, viz. Pompey’s 
Pillar, and one of the obelisques :—yet more remote, 
we beheld the sandy castellated point of the Pharos 
stretching into the sea; and the ships, the only signs 
of civilization and prosperity, riding in the harbour. 
In the opposite direction, nothing was to be seen but 
the salt Lake Mareotis terminated by its dyke, and the 
ever memorable bay of Aboukir, on the one side; and 
the parched and sandy plains of the desert which were 
lost upon the horizon, on the other. At no great dis- 
tance in the direction of the bay, were a clump of palm- 
trees and some signs of vegetation; here and there 
seattered upon the plain between us and the shore, we 
could trace sundry irregularities, the remains of former 
buildings, but nothing distinctively, and they afforded 
poor indications of the towns which are said to have 
existed on the spot. Descending, we turned off to the 
lefi, but looked in vain for the famous Gymnasium, or 
the costly palaces of a city which once distributed her 
treasures to the whole world. 

We returned home by the Canal of Cleopatra or 
Mahmoudieh, opened by Mohammed Ali, in 1819. If 
the Pascha had reason to glory at its completion, thou- 
sands had reason to lament that the work was ever 
undertaken. Tt was done at the instigation of Mr. 





THE CANAL—THE NILB—AND THE BOGAZ. 113 


Samuel Briggs, a merchant of Alexandria, who, by 
inducing Mohammed Ali to establish a communication 
between this city and the Nile, not only enabled the 
Arabs to avoid the dangerous passage of the “ Bogaz” 
of Rosetta, but also to proceed with their cargo without 
loss of time, which was often of the greatest conse- 
quence ; whereas, formerly, the ships were liable to be 
detained on account of the cotton many months. As to 
the advantages to be derived from this plan there could 
not be two opinions: but when Mr. Briggs, in his zeal 
for the Paseha’s interest, and that of the merchants 
generally, recommended a scheme so obviously useful, 
he never for a moment contemplated that its adoption 
would be attended with such disastrous consequences, 
nor could he suppose that Mohammed Ali would set 
about it in such an inconsistent and barbarous manner. 
But this, which is spoken of as one of the Pascha’s 


grand doings, serves to illustrate the character of the 
man. 


“Things once ronolved by him, are half performed.” 
His ears are open to every new suggestion, and it must 
be acted upon immediately. Then we are told that the 
country prospers, and that 

“Tye king effects more wonders than w maz!" 
But do the persons who say this reflect, or consider the 
means by which he works? Iam afraid not: or they 
would see that the Pascha has so many speculations 
afloat at the same time, that it is impossible his 
resources can keep pace with his necessities, and that 
in order to gratify his wishes, he compels the people to 
work without pay. His Herod-like conduct, on this oc- 
casion, corresponded with bis other desperate acts. It 
was by such that he placed himself on the throne of 
Egypt; and by such he has been attempting to put 
VoL. b. 1 





114 = ovTLine oF THE PascHs’s CHARACTER, 


himself in a condition to cope with Europeans. He 
fuaithcoghe aly of lc own aparece and waded. 
through blood to power. A Turkish education has 
taught him that he exists only as long as he can hold 
a tight rein and a rod of iron. He knows that he is 
hated as well as feared, and imagines that there is but 
one course for him to pursue :—since 
© Crowns got by blood must te by bloed maintained I” 

When, therefore, he has any project in view, it is not 
a trifle that will thwart him in its execution. Justice 
and mercy are unknown to him: of course, he cares 
nothing about his people's love. That the labourer 
is worthy of his hire,’ is no concern of his; so that the 
Egyptians have indeed * a hard master.” 

The sorrows of the Israclites during the period of 
their bondage under the Pharaohs, were never greater 
than those which the present race of Egyptians ex- 
perience under the tyrant Ali. 

That the Pascha is a man of extraordinary talent, 
there can be no doubt: and it is much to be regretted 
that he should adopt such a desperate line of policy. 
But out of evil sometimes proceeds good :-—let us hope 
that such may be the case with regard to this man. It 
required a despotic character to break down the barrier 
which existed to the progress of civilization in the East. 
Mohammed Ali, by setting at nought some of the 
established usages of his country, and by adopting the 
customs of Europeans, has effected this most desirable 
end, and many of his undertakings will benefit futare 
generations ; though he has unfortunately attempted to 
do in a day what should be the work of years, and he 
has not hesitated to employ the most unjustifiable 
means—such only as a despot could devise. It will be 
said that I use strong language :—but I have promised 





POLICY, AND PROCEEDINGS. 115 


to speak without reserve, and to treat of the moral as 
well as the political condition of the country. While, 
therefore, we endeavour to bear with the infirmities of 
others, it is our duty, as Christians, to testify on all 
suitable occasions, our abhorrence of eyil, lest any of us 
be hardened by pernicious example, and the deceitful: 
ness of sin. Let us then laok to facts, and before we 
sanction the Pascha’s conduct, or extol him for the 
innovations which he has made, consider whether he has 
the good of his people at heart, in apy respect, or 
whether he is striving to gratify a restless and insatiable 
thirst for power. We ought to contemplate the actual 
condition of bis subjects, and ask ourselves, how far it 
has improved under his yoke? If he dispenses justice 
and mercy, then will the face of Egypt rejoiee, and 
Mohammed Ali will deserve all the praise which some 
haye lavished upon him. But if it be found that he 
merely builds ships, and fortifications, and employs the 
beat energies of his mind to work out his own ambitious 
schemes, at the sacrifice of the happiness of his people, 
we, who have had the advantage of an education, and 
experienced the blessings of civilized life, ought not to 
shut our eyes to truth, and look on in sonseless 
apathy, contenting ourselves with the reflection that he 
is *a Turk,” and because he is ‘a Turk,” turn away 
with a shrug, as if we were indifferent spectators of 
what we cannot conscientiously approve. Tam satisfied 
that no man can do otherwise than pity the present 
race of Egyptians. 

Tf the Pascha was bred in ignorance and superstition, 
he has had time and opportunity enough to learn what 
is right. He is very shrewd, and has mixed with 
Europeans: he is no longer the raw inexperienced 
adventurer ; and I do not think we should attempt to 

12 





116 CONSTRUCTION AND OPENING OF 


excuse his conduct on the plea that he has fought his 
way through the world, a continual eye-witness of 
bloodshed and rapine, accustomed from the cradle to 
acts of despotism! He is himself ¢oo enlightened now, 
whatever he may have been, not to be sensible of 
the wretched condition of his people; but he wants to 
establish his independence before he dies, and cares 
not at how great a price it be purchased. Let the 
Pascha’s actions tell their own story. His destrac- 
tion of the Mamliks was enough to stamp him in the 
estimation of all good men.* But his behaviour in 
regard to the opening of the canal of Mahmoudieh 
was, if possible, more barbarous, and altogether without 
excuse :—he could not even plead self-defence, as he 
did, and others did for him, in the former ease, (his seat 
upon the throne as Viceroy, being insecure as long as 
a shadow of the Mamlik power remained); but the 
unmeaning, reckless, and deliberate tyranny exercised 
towards the poor Arabs, who, if treated with kindness 
may be moulded, I am sure, to any thing, cannot but 
awaken feelings of repugnance. It makes one's very 
blood chill to think of it, and it is not easy to understand 
how he could be so lavish of his subjects’ lives, when 
he had great designs in contemplation, and required to 
husband his resources in every possible manner. 

‘The canal itself is forty-eight miles in length. It 
extends from the harbour of Alexandria to Atfieh, near 
the town of Fouah, on the Nile; and was, when com- 
pleted, ninety feet in breadth, and from fifteen to eighteen 
feet deep, However, that I may not be suspected of 
prejudice, I will describe this transaction in the words 
of the Quarterly Review, a work of too much respect- 
ability and credit to be mistrusted. All the labouring 

* Vide Chapter XIV. 





4 
THE MAHMOUDIEH CANAL. WW 


classes of Lower Egypt were put in requisition, and a 
month's pay advanced them to provide biscuit and 
provisions, To each village and district was marked 
out the work allotted to it, The Arabs were marched 
down in thousands and tens of thousands, under their 
respective chiefs: the number employed at one time, 
actually exceeded 250,000 men! In about siz weeks, 
the whole excavation was completed, and the people 
returned home to their respective occupations; but, in 
the autumn, a few thousands were called upon to face 
part with masonry, and make the whole navigable for 
ships of considerable burden. It was opened with 
great pomp on the seventh of December 1819.”* 
Now, if these individuals had been properly paid, 
and properly fed, and allowed sufficient time to complete 
the work, so far from there being any injustice in the 
act, the poor would have had reason to rejoice :—but 
no sooner had the Pascha made up his mind to open the 
canal, than he resolved that it should be done at once. 
Mr. Briggs was unfortunately in England at the time, 
or he would have perhaps had sufficient influence to 
have deterred him from sueh an act of impatience :— 
however, the Pascha being left to himself, he spoke the 
word, and the decree went forth throughout the land. 
The canal was completed at the time appointed :— 
but all the waters that have since flowed through it 
are insufficient to wash away the stain which this 
ferocious deed has left upon the Pascha’s character. 
As, in the time of Pharaoh, the Israelites were com- 
pelled like slaves to furnish of themselves the straw to 
make the bricks, and were goaded in their work, broken- 
hearted and feeble, —so in the time of Mohammed 
Ali, were the wretched, ill-fated Arabs compelled to 


© Vol. xxx: p. 502. 





118 REVOLTING SACRIFICE AND OPPRESSION. 


labour, dejected and faint, under the iron rod of their 
oppressor, whose minions stood by and saw his will en- 
forced. Leaving their families at home to starve, they 
were driven down hither without regard to cireum- 
stances ; and actually obliged to seratch up the loosened 
soil with their hands, and convey it away in baskets. 
‘They were not allowed sufficient repose to repair their 
Wasted strength: the pay alluded to, was fifteen parahs* 
and a piece of black bread, consisting of bean flour and 
mouldy wheat, per diem—which was barely sufficient 
to support life at any other time, much less when 
condemned to labour under circumstances like these 5 
and 30,000 of them died! Even if they had been 
amply remunerated—being paid “a month in advance 
that they might buy food" —having to shift for them- 
Selves, how were the wants of so many to be supplied 
daily ?—and for each man to lay up a month's store, 80 
that he could safely have access to it, as occasion 
required, was out of the question! Still, with the 
knowledge of such facts, their labours were continued 
without intermission, although many were known to be 
in a state of exhaustion: and at last, as no suitable 
provision, either of food or any thing élse, was made 
for the sick and feeble—hundreds died and were 
buried every day, Nevertheless, when the murderous 
work was completed, the canal, we are told, was opened 
“with great pomp and rejoicings!” But this is 
nothing new, now; others have told the same story: 
the fact is notorious: and yet this man is cried up, and 
Wwe are informed that he is “so enlightened!” and that 
“he is doing so much for the people!” So far is this 
from being the case, that by such means as the above, 
as will appear in the course of this narrative, the Paseha 
c * About tree half-pence, 





EGYPT DEPOPULATED—THE REVENUES. 119 


has most effectually laid the country waste, and so 
completely thinned the population, that in 1833, and 
eyen up to the present time,—what with having seized 
all that were capable of bearing arms, to make soldiers 
and sailors of them,*—what with the natural diminution 
of fecundity, arising from the degenerate state to which 
the people haye been reduced by persecution and grief, 
or on the other hand, by the influence of natural 
abuses— added to the effects of disease and want—(I 
have it from pretty good authority) it was only by the 
greatest exertion, that a sufficient number of hands 
could be raised to bring down the cotton, and to gather 
in the grain, two of the staple commodities of the 


country. 

The revenues of Alexandria, in the time of the 
Ptolemies, according to the records in our possession, 
amounted to as much as 12,600 talents, which at the 


rate of 193/. 15s. the talent, brings it to about two 
millions and a half sterling. In the time of Browne 
(1798) the revenue was thought “not to exceed 


* The following will verve as o specimen. The Kiasheif of Sold (a «mall 
village a little to the south of Atfirh, om the Nile,) assured Mr, St. John, that 
the greater part of the youth had been taken away from that village for the 
Poscha’s army, and that in a town opposite, thero remained at loust twelve 
women to one man, and that the year before, the cultivation of the sugar-cane 
in that nolghbourhood, had actually been abandoned for Inok of hands. Weypt 
sod Mobammod AU, vol.{. p.206. See also the Author, Chapter X. 

1 In 1696, 7, and 8, the sonreity increased to an extent amounting to fhinine, 
‘No com was to bo seen in the markets, though there was abundance In Upper 

‘entirely m government scheme, thut a quantity of damaged 


‘butter, but, 38 correspondent remarked, “ it required ali the destructive talents 
of Molamzed Ali and his worthy counsellor to bring about such « phenomenon. 
At this rate {t would soon have been necessary to procure other articles from 
foreign countrias : for Egypt is 40 depopulated that it cannot be cultivated, In 
condor to.tlil the ground, the goverament now seizes tho Arab servants of the 
Pe ne ear te the tillage bound together two by to, 

like galley-slaves!"” Mohamed Ali dors not ecem to be aware that the real 
riches of Egypt consist in Its agricultural produce! 





120 GENERAL EXPENDITURE AND RECEIPTS. 


225,000." The Mamliks drew from Egypt about 
a million and a half sterling. During the time that the 
French were in possession of the country, it varied very 
much, as might be expected. General Reynier esti- 
mates it at from twenty to twenty-five millions of francs. 
(from 833,333/. to 1,041,666/.) The Pascha’s 
revenue in 1821 was estimated at not less than 
2,250,000/,—of this the “ Miri,” or land tax, yielded 
one half. The disbursements in the same year were 
computed to be 1,757,840/., one half of which arose 
from the army expenditure; and the remittances to 
Constantinople amounted to 12,000 purses, about 5 per 
cent. on the revenue. The Pilgrimage to Mecca costs 
about 14,000/.; and nearly 200,000/, are expended 
annually, on the Pascha’s own household.* The revenue 
has been going on gradually increasing ever since 
1821, notwithstanding that his export trade has some- 
what diminished, and that his political schemes have 
latterly caused him to neglect the culture of both grain 
and cotton. 

Mohammed Ali, a short time before his expulsion 
from Syria, gave up the monopoly of silk ; and it now 
pays an ad-valorem duty of 25 per cent. Weare pretty 
well assured of the system of extortion that has hitherto 
been adopted; and the relative state of the cotton and 
other markets is generally within our reach. In the 
summer of 1840, the Pascha is known to have gained 

1,400,000 talaris, a sum equal to 280,000/. profit 
by the sale of his cotton alone : for he can regulate the 
price nearly as he pleases; and on one occasion, he 

* Daring the whole of the Syrinn eampaign, the Arnbs of the Desert suffered 
moch frota their interoourse with the Innge towns being ent off; and also from 
‘tho tunaottlod state of the country. ‘They therefore levied tweaty dollars ou euch: 


camel of the great caravan, Instead of the usual * kafahe” of two dollars from 
the caravan from Bagiad to Damascus, which consisted of 9000 caniels, 





MONOPOLY—GOLD-MINES. 121 


offended the resident European merchants by attempt- 
ing to levy an exorbitant export duty on this the 
leading article of Egyptian commerce ; by which short- 
sighted policy, he would by degrees have got the whole 
trade if possible, into his own hands. Lately, very 
excellent coal and iron have been discovered in the 
neighbourhood of Beyrout and Seyde, by Mr. Brettell, 
an English engineer, from which twelve tons of the 
former were obtained daily. In 1839 Mohammed Ali 
went himself to inspect the gold mines of “ Fazoglou” 
on the “Babr el Abiard” or White River, which are 
said to be very rich, and were being worked with decided 
advantage. He sent several regiments to protect the 
mines from the incursions of the natives, and put a stop 
to the slave trade, and the hunting down of the negroes, 
(hitherto encouraged by him) in the hope that they 
would repair in crowds to work in the mines! The 
revenue for 1839 was calculated to be 462,841 purses, 
447 piastres—reckoning twenty-five talaris to the 
purse. The chief sources of this revenue were, —the 
territorial rights which produced 326,000 purses: the 
poll-tax, which gave 4,747 on the inhabitants of 
Cairo: and 55,252 on those of the provinces: the 
tax on trades and occupations amounted to 20,000: 
and the duties on importing provisions into Cairo 
amounted to 11,500. 

In 1840, the revenue in Egypt amounted to between 
12,000,000 and 14,000,000 of talaris. There were 
200,000 ardebs of corn in the warehouses, and 30,000 
quintals of cotton of the best growth were reported 
ready for shipping. The harvest of barley and wheat 
commenced as early as the first week in April under 
favourable auspices in Upper Egypt: and the rice 
harvest was also unusually abundant. About 100,000 





122 TRIBUTE AND ARREARS—GRANARIES, 


ardebs were already undergoing the process of winnow- 
ing, and would soon be ready for sale. 

Tn addition to this revenue, the Pascha received the 
profits of his monopolies. When, however, we consider 
his political exploits, the building of ships and fortifica- 
tions, the raising of troops and seamen, and the ex- 
penses of the war and its contingencies—even at a very 
rough estimate,—and when we call to mind that he is 
always in arrears with his troops and employés, and 
that the orders which he sends to Europe are always 
executed with eaution,—there cannot require a question 
as to the fact of his expenditure far exceeding his 
receipts, and that he is only able to meet this by 
levying still further contributions on the people, and by 
the most unbounded and shameless monopolies.* ‘The 
“Shoonah” or large granaries of Alexandria, afford a 
specimen of this: they are some of the most extensive 
in the world ;—(one of them is supported by not less 
than 450 columns;) they are generally well stocked, 
and the corn has sometimes been stored up in them 
during seasons of real or pretended scarcity (as the 
wants of the Pascha shall determine) when the people 
have been all but ina starving state. Barley has then, 
as now, been mixed with the wheat, and even beans, 
before any was allowed to be sold to the people, and 
only then when the necessity became urgent. 


‘They then for a 


* Tho account laid boforo Mohammed Ali up to tho 3rd of September, 1899, 
(the firut day of the Mohammedan year) showed that ho was indebted to his 
army to the amount of 10,000 talaris, while his property in articles of commerce 
‘was 250,000 talaria short of that amount: —s i 
mere nothing considering tho extent of iis re 
owed the Parte two year’ tribute, viz. 1,000,000 talaris! 





THE CUSTOMS—THE DEFTERDAR BEY. 123 


limited period, fell into the hands of the Syrians, who 
came chiefly from Damascus, and likewise of Chris- 
tians. But many disputes arising, the governors took 
care to avail themselves of the opportunity to apply 
them to their own advantage: and at length, Murad 
Bey who was at the head, imagining it would be « 
souree of profit, turned collector himself. It has been 
stated that there are in Egypt two millions one bun- 
dred thousand acres of cultivable land; but it is 
almost impossible to make any calculation of the re- 
sources of the country, even if this be true; for a 
good deal is allowed to lie waste, and there is no sort 
of encouragement for labour, 

‘The late Receiyer-general of the taxes (the Defterdar 
Bey) not only indulged in every species of tyranny and 
extortion, but gloried in the most revolting crimes and 
wanton excesses. ‘The office is generally held by a 
‘Turk, and he is appointed by the Sultan. He is not 
supposed to be answerable to Mohammed Ali for his 
conduct, and owghe to deliver up a portion only of what 
he collects, to him,—the rest to his master. His powers 
and opportunities are therefore very great. This man 
was outwitted by the Viceroy at last, who laid a net 
for him, which effectually secured and entangled him. 
He pretended not to notice his avaricious schemes: he 
allowed him to wallow in luxury, and to gorge himself 
at the expense of all the other authorities, well know- 
ing, that the more they were taxed, the more they would 
tax others. He made him presents, and pretended to 
be his friend. He even gave him his daughter in mar- 
riage. The Bey was ‘completely deceived, took his 
ease, and gave loose to the grossest sensuality, ‘The 
moment had not yet arrived for the completion of the 
Pascha’s views; but he was only * biding his time!” 





124 ORIENTAL ATROCITIES, 


He watched him with an eagle's eye; and at length, 
when he had sufficiently fattened upon his unhappy vie- 
tims, he became the easy prey of him who only waited 
the course of events to profit by his enormities. Sud- 
denly! the Defterdar died! Immediately, the Pascha, 
in virtue of bis daughter's right, claimed the whole of 
his immense wealth, He recovered all his presents, 
took possession of his jewels, his stores, and twenty 
millions sterling! Every one rejoiced at his death. 
Some idea may be formed of his atrocities by the fol- 
lowing facts :—When certain men, who had deserted, 
were again captured, he bad them brought into the 
court-yard of his palace; then closing the gates, he 
made them fight for his amusement, promising, that he 
who was the last to survive, should have a free pardon. 
When, however, the looked-for crisis arrived, one only 
survivor remaining, he gave an exulting look of bloody 
satisfaction to an executioner; and before the poor 
Arab had time to breathe, his trunkless carcase writhed 
at the tyrant’s feet. He has frequently been known to 
cut at his women with his scymitar, in a drunken fit, 
without any kind of provocation; and it was no un- 
common thing to find the bodies of his slaves, both 
male’ and female, lying half devoured by the dogs, 
beneath his palace walls at Cairo, opposite the island 
of Er-Rhouddah. On one occasion, he caused a man, 
who had offended him, to be buried alive, up to his 
neck in lime, his head exposed to the burning sun, un- 
til he died. These things are awful to contemplate ; 
but Europeans little know the cruelties that are com- 
mitted by the rich and powerful in countries like these. 
How thankful ought we to be when we reflect that Pro- 
vidence has placed us in a land where justice is dis- 
pensed with an impartial hand, and where the insatiate 
1 





THE NEW PALACE —URAHIM PASCHA, 125 


tiger-hearted villain is hunted from his den, whatever 
be his rank or denomination ! 

The new palace of the Pascha at the Point isa 
handsome building, i.e. for Alexandria. It is exten- 
sive and pleasantly situated, commanding a view of the 
open sea on the one side, and of the great harbour, with 
the shipping, on the other. The apartments are very 
neat, light, and tastefully arranged, painted and deco- 
rated by Greeks. The baths are good, and furnished 
with every convenience. We passed through the 
rooms devoted to the ladies of the Seraglio, which were 
very elegant; quite in the Oriental style, spacious, and 
airy. Of course their fair inmates were not there. 

Mr. Barker accompanied us to the dock-yard and 
arsenal in due form, where we were presented to Ibra~ 
him Pascha by Boghos Youssouf, and were most gra- 
ciously received. His Highness was rather a fine looking 
man, about five feet six or seven inches high, well 
made, muscular and sturdy. He had dark grey eyes, 
a brown beard, and moustachios. He is now about 
fifty-two years of age, but the Syrian campaigns have 
impaired his constitution. He was dressed in a kind 
of European surtout, with a dark blue mantle, a species 
of Hungarian cooba thrown over his shoulders. On his 
head he wore the red “ Tabousch,” or Greek cap, and 
at his side a Mamlik sabre. He was attended by 
Osman Bey, the Capoudan Pascha, and by the Governor 
of Alexandria. Ibrahim bears the title of Pascha of 
Mecca. An attempt was once made by the Porte to 
transfor it to another, but the individual who came to 
Egypt for that purpose met with an “accident,” and 
did not reach Cairo at all! Ibrahim is said to be 
capable of great cruelties; but this I suspect, is a 
slander on the part of his enemies: certainly his 





126 THE DOCK-¥YARD, AND ARSENAL: 


physiognomy did not betray ferocity of character: he 
could be stern, I dare say, when he liked; but I did 
not discover any thing forbidding in his countenance. 
He looked like a soldier, and might be seen to greater 
advantage in the field: there was a degree of awkward- 
ness in his manner which surprised us ; he seemed not 
to know what to do with his hands: but he behaved 
politely, and entered freely into conversation, He 
asked Mr, Bradford, through his Drogueman, “ why 
there was no American Consul at Alexandria and Con- 
stantinople ?”’ Mr. B. replied, “ Because there was no 
free trade to the Black Sea, and that there was little 
encouragement given to the Americans in the way of 
business; that otherwise they would be happy to have 
a representative there as elsewhere—that he was him- 
self Consul at Lyons in France,” &¢.* On this, 
further conversation arose, and Ibrahim begged we 
would say if he could render us any service, and gave 
us permission to see whatever interested us in the 
Arsenal. He seemed to be paying great attention to 
the improvement of the marine. We were informed 
that it required nine months to complete a line-of-battle 
ship. The dock-yard presented an appearance of 
activity and business. There were on the stocks at 
that time, one ship of 120 guns, a 60-gun frigate, and 
two others of 18 guns each. There was evidently no 
want of materiel, and the rope and cable departments 
were well worth seeing. The forests in the neighbour- 
hood of Aleppo furnish an abundant supply of excellent 
timber. An immense number of hands were variously 
employed; but here, a3 in every thing else of impor- 
tance relative to the government works, the French 
had then the ascendancy, and chief superintendence. 
* A Consul has since Leen appointed, vis. Mrs Oliditon. 





THE EGYPTIAN MARINE—PRANK SOCIETY, 127 


The Egyptian Navy has since been increased to about 
fifteen sail of the line, twelve frigates and as many 
brigs, besides corvettes and steamers :—in addition to 
which, the Pascha held for a long period several of the 
Sultan's vessels, which were betrayed into his hands— 
viz. eight ships of the line, twelve frigates, one corvelte, 
and three brigs!_ When they arrived, they had 22,000 
men on board, but 3,500 died of dysentery, fever, 
seurvy, &c. in Egypt. 

We returned home with Mr. Barker to dinner, when 
we were introduced to Mr. George Robinson and Mr. 
W. Maltass, two English gentlemen, who had just 
landed from Smyrna, and purposed proceeding shortly 
to Cairo. 

Alexandria was at this time very gay, the carnival 
having commenced; and parties were frequent among 
the Franks. Society here, is not generally attractive 
there is often a mixture of company, and as a matter 
of course, plenty of gossiping; but upon the whole, a 

understanding is maintained. ‘The resources are 
limited, and there is but little variation in the amuse- 
ments and pursuits. When Colonel Hodges was En- 
glish Consul, he succeeded in getting up some races 
near what is termed ‘Casar’s Camp.” They were 
numerously attended, and the ladies were attired in 
riding habits. Madame M——y, of Marseilles, was 
elected Queen on the occasion, and distributed the 
prizes to the victors! She acquitted herself very 
gracefully, I am told—but the Sais Arabs who were 
present could not comprehend her address. There are 
frequently travellers passing and repassing; for the 
most part, officers in the Indian army, or belonging to 
a British or French man-of-war. Latterly, however, 
since the communication by steam has been facilitated, 





128 STRAM-TRAVELLING—M. ALI'S EMPLOYERS. 


it has become more the fashion to visit Egypt, and 
there is better accommodation to be obtained. Seven 
years ago, there was not a single steam-vessel of any 
denomination, between Europe and Alexandria: now, 
those of England, France, and Austria, comprise no 
fewer than eighteen. 

‘The resident Franks are either merchants, or 
connected in some shape or other with the diplomatic 
agents, or the Viceroy. They divide the day in 
nearly the same manner asin Europe: but there is a 
mixture of manners according to the views of the re- 
spective nations. It is necessary to be very cautious in 
forming acquaintances: for the gates of Egypt having 
once been thrown open without discrimination, all sorts 
of people flocked in; and although a few highly re- 
spectable men have consented at various times, to enter 
the Pascha’s service, the greater part are mere adven- 
turers, ready, like other mercenaries, to take up with any 
body and any thing! 

For a long time, Mohammed Ali continued their 
dupe; but by degrees his eyes were opened, and he 
found it necessary to be more particular. Disputes 
were continually occurring between them and the 
authorities, which the respective consuls did not 
always find it easy to settle. Many men were sent 
out of the country on account of their violent con- 
duct; and at last it was found expedient to issue 
a decree upon the subject.* The irregularities and 


* Tax ProctaMation oy Mowanxenn Att neLatrv® To Evaopeans — 

“1, Prom the 16th January, 1896, every individual coming to Egypt for 
the purpose of establishing himself, will be required, on his first arrival, to show 
‘that be has the means of existence, and exhibit to the local goverment, a 
guarantee from among the principal iuhabltants of the country, who will be 
respoaaible for his moral eauduct, 

“2, very individual already established in Hgypt must, in like manner, take 
‘measures to fulfil the conditions required by the preceding article. 

“9, Rvory eaptain of  veaso! who shall bring as passengers, persons unable to 





HIS PROCLAMATION CONCERNING FRANKS. 129 


excesses to which it refers were not to be wondered 
at in a country which, at one period, afforded an 
asylum to all the renegades of Europe; and it was 
extremely galling to those of the Pascha’s officers, 
who were men of principle and talent, to find that 
they were mixed up indiscriminately with a set of 
worthless fellows who, having obtained an appoint- 
ment, expected to be regarded as gentlemen, although 
they indulged in every low and vicious propensity, 
and confessed that “they only came for the piastres !” 

These men took every advantage in their power, 
did nothing, and were many of them, thoroughly 
ignorant of their profession. If, however, the Pascha 
was deceived in them, it is only fair to acknowledge 
that they also had been deceived by him; for it is 
notorious that he does not make good his promises 
nothing that he says is to be depended on. He was 
wont to offer largely to Europeans to induce them to 
come to Egypt: he raised their expectations, but did 
not satisfy their demands: he would put them off 
from time to time, under false pretences, and was 
always in arrears. The same system is still pursued, 
‘Those who would serve him faithfully are not appre- 
ciated, and they soon leave him in disgust; for they 
are not only badly paid, but insulted by those with 
whom they are compelled to associate: in fact he has 
introduced such a medley of nations, languages, and 
character, that his service is any thing but agreeable. 
It is, moreover, the most difficult thing imaginable to 
get any business done, even when people are disposed 
to work: for he has so many irons in the fire, and 


give the securities required, shall be obliged at his own risk and peril, t» convey 
them buck to Europet (Bigoed), — “Motasentse Aaa.” 
© Noy. ded. 1880." 


VoL. I. 





130 THE PASCHA'’S PROJECTS.—SOLDIERS, 


possesses such a prolific imagination, that whatever 
he hears of, he is anxious to adopt without considering 
how it is to be accomplished. Thus the workmen are 
taken away from one thing before it is half finished, 
and put to another. He went to an enormous expense 
a few years ago, about a railway, and sent for an 
immense quantity of iron-work from England; but 
when it arrived, his attention being differently directed, 
after a slight attempt, the undertaking was abandoned: 
and I belieye the iron has been lying at the dock-yard 
ever since. He sends young men to Europe to be 
educated for different professions: but on their return, 
he sets them to do things which they have never been 
taught ; supposing, that because they have travelled, 
they are fit for any employment whatever! 

His conduct throughout is indeed so inconsistent, 
that as a clever man, it is hardly credible: he sel- 
dom finishes what he begins. Even the canal has 
been neglected ; and i st filling up again. He 
has literally drained the resources of the country, and 
he is most sincerely hated by all classes. ‘The sol- 
diers would lay down their arms, I have no doubt, if 
they had an opportunity of bettering their condition. 
They are not soldiers by choice; they are taken from 
their families by force, as I shall have occasion to 
describe more fully by and bye.* They are treated 

- ‘ed, badly clothed, 
they would fight 
ve no interest in 

his cause. The National Guard, about which so much 
has been said, is a compl ockery, They are 
chiefly boys stolen from their families, and driven 
down from the int in chains; and when there is 





CRUELTIES, AND MONOPOLIES.—EUROPRANS. 131 


ascarcity of chains, holes are made in planks for the 
hands, and the planks are then nailed together. In 
this state they are sent on board the ships to be 
forwarded to Candia, there to be drilled, and it often 
happens that their hands are so swollen by the time 
they reach the coast, that they are unable to use them 
for weeks. 

There are some very respectable families residing 
at Alexandria, and society is much more select there 
than at Cairo, How long it may continue so, is 
doubtful: for as the Pascha endeavours to get all 
the commerce into his own hands, the merchants lose 
their confidence, and respectable individuals have very 
little inducement to settle there, or trade with him. 1 
was repeatedly invited to establish myself profession- 
ally: but nothing was further from my thoughts. 
There is no want of patients: but Egypt affords 
a miserable prospect to a medical man, however 
talented he may be. 

The habits of the Franks assimilate very much with 
those of the natives: and although they do not eat 
with their fingers, they adopt the Oriental mode of 
living to a considerable extent: indeed, the climate 
requires it. Repose is a matter of necessity in a hot 
country, and the divan is in great request. Per 
sons usually sleep for an hour or two during the 
heat of the day; and if they are wise, they live 
moderately, restricting themselves to a small quantity 
of animal food. Coffee and pipes are also in general 
use, 


The Carnival is celebrated here as in Europe. 
Gaming is one of its chief characteristics : and there 
are balls, dinner parties, and masquerades. Some- 
times we hear of concerts and private theatricals, 
n2 





132 FEMALE SOCIETY.—MARRIAGE. 


both French and Italian, and the performances are 
really very good. 

I was introduced to Mr. Anastasi, the Swedish 
Consul, a Greek. He has a fine collection of anti- 
quities, generally, I believe, for sale. 

The opportunities afforded for education, are yery 
limited, and I am sorry to say, that in Egypt, the 
qualifications of the mind are ofien neglected in 
consequence. There is no want of beauty among 
the young ladies, but they are sometimes introduced 
too early: and they not unfrequently marry at the 
age of twelve. I disturbed a gentleman one day when 
he was reading a letter of sixteen closely written 
pages, which he had just received from his wife, 
whom he had sent to Europe to be educated: a 
practice of no uncommon occurrence. He was thirty- 
six, the lady only twelve years of age. ‘“ The example 

which is set in Alexandria,” said he, “is a great 

disadvantage to the rising generation, and those who 
look for domestic happiness must be doubly cir 
cumspect in the choice of a wife. Our European 
notions of propriety and decorum, are, I fear, more 
frequently ridiculed than inculeated.” Accomplish- 
ments are not very much attended to either; but 
there are few who cannot speak French, Italian, 
Arabic, and Greek. Italian is the language in 
general use. 

I had been up rather later than usual at our 
Locanda, and had not retired to bed many minutes, 
when I heard a loud knocking below, a most unusual 
thing at that hour. On opening the chamber door, 
I recognized the voice of my it, who was hesi- 
tating whether to satisfy ¢ ies that were made 
concerning me, and yet not d ‘to refuse. He was 





MIDNIGHT EMBARKATION. 133 


evidently in a great fright, as if he thought I was 
either to be committed to jail, or—*the deep, deep 
sea.” He was discussing this or some other knotty 
point with a fierce looking mustachio’d Janizary, 
and stood quite aghast to learn that I must “embark 
immediately,—that no time was to be lost!" “ How? 
Where?” said he, no doubt thinking of his wages, 
and the chance he had of his head for being servant 
to a Christian!—‘ What for?—Go on board to- 
night!” he added—No matter! Iva! (yes) Y 
Allah! Y Allah !"—* Go! tell the H’akkim to make 
haste! Captain Scott wants him!” and (pushing 
him up stairs,) they both reached my door at the 
same time. When the matter was explained, Mo- 
hammed's dingy countenance altered from the scared 
to the doleful; he became sulky ; and when he heard 
that all this fuss was merely about “a sick woman,” 
he gave a grunt, wondering to himself what there 
was to induce me to turn out at such a time, and 
put to sea in an open boat. As Mohammed was 
a fire spaniel, he recovered his composure when he 
heard that I could do without him, and in a few 
minutes was snoring in his cabin. I descended with 
the Janizary forthwith. We did not go round by 
the Mahmoudieh, but proceeded at once to the 
regular landing place, where he had left the ship's 
boat in which he came ashore. We soon reached 
the city walls, and stood before their huge and 
cumbrous portals. We neither approached unseen, 
nor unheard. The Arab Guard were, for a wonder, 
on the alert: (I suppose because the Janizary had 
recently passed,) and instantly challenged us. “ Ef- 
*thah! Effthah!" exclaimed he, in a tone of autho- 
rity; immediately the gates were unbarred; and the 





134 ATMOSPHERIC CHANGES. 


next minute, we heard their massive bolts returned 
into their places, with our retiring steps. 

The night was fine, though, as usual, the dew was 
falling fast around us, and I was very glad to be 
enveloped in my good old English cloak. Even the 
Janizary wrapped the folds of his bernous closer 
about his head and shoulders as he stepped into 
the boat. A thin cloud had obscured the moon, 
and the starry host of heaven were still arrayed in 
all their glory. There was a gentle north-westerly 
breeze, and the sea was calm: the town was perfectly 
still, and nothing interrupted the silence of night, 
but the occasional barking of the dogs, and the ery 
of the Muezzin from the minarets, 

We were challenged by the watch of one or two 
ships as we passed, and in a few minutes more, we 
pulled alongside of the “Lord Goderich,’ where I 
found myself a most welcome visitor. 

As Mr. Bradford was in bed and dozing, when I 
quitted the Locanda, and had received bat an im- 
perfect account of what had happened, he was both 
surprised and alarmed when he found that I did not 
return at noon, He sent Mohammed on board after 
me, and now began to feel the inconvenience of 
travelling with a doctor! We were engaged out 
to dinner, but I being still detained at sea, owing 
to a serious accident which bad occurred in the fleet, 
he was obliged to go without me. I joined the 
company in the evening, and we arranged to go to 
the plains of Aboukir the following day. When 
the morning came, the weather was unfavorable : 
it was blowing a strong south-easterly gale, and 
so extremely sultry that we were little inclined to 
approach the Desert. As we deferred our excursion 





RESOURCES OF THE SICK. 135, 


to Aboukir, 1 proposed that we should take shelter 
on board the “Bristol,” in order, if possible, when 
the whole atmosphere was loaded with sand, to inhale 
a mouthful of fresh air! My poor friend caught 
at the idea in a moment: for he had been rolling 
about in a state of feverish excitement after a rest- 
less night : books, papers, and furniture were covered 
with dust; and he vowed that, what with the dirt, 
the vermin, and the heat, he could get no rest by 
night or by day; and that if Riches would take him 
back to Malta, he’d go; for that he had had quite 
enough of Egypt! 

I went the following day to the Frank Hospital to 
see a man who was supposed to haye the plague. This 
building is by no means adequate to the wants of the 
whole population, but it is sufficient for those for whom 
it is intended, It holds about 100 beds ; it was clean, 
and well arranged ; but little use was then made of it, 
because no dependance could be placed on the individual 
who had the charge of it; viz. the Frenchman already 
alluded to. Since his time, to my knowledge, two 
very respectable gentlemen have resided in Alexandria, 
and for a period undertook the management of it. 
These were Monsieur de Riviere and Mr. Laidlaw, who 
were previously in the Pascha’s service; the former at 
“ Abou Zabel” near Cairo: the latter on board a ship 
of the line, Both have since retired. There is in 
fact no inducement for any man of principle or ability 
to stay. Dr. Grassi is the person who now enjoys the 
sun-shine of the Imperial favour. By far the greater 
part of those who apply at this Institution for relief are 
French and Maltese sailors; except when fever, cho- 
lera, or any other epidemic breaks forth, and then 
there are patients enough. One portion of the hospi- 





136 THE PLAGUE.—QUARANTINE.—CHOLERA. 


tal is called the plague department: but the disease 
strictly so named, has not been seen so much as for- 
merly. Frequently reports concerning plague, reach 
the ear, when other severe maladies exist, the appella- 
tion being given by the natives to a variety of diseases 
which are a plague or torment to them; but this is a 
different thing to the plague.* In 1813,—7,000 per- 
sons are stated to have been carried off by the plague 
out of a population previously estimated at 12,000. 
‘The Arabs and Turks generally take no precautions 5 
but the better classes now do ; and the Pascha himself, 
although professedly a fatalist, is beginning to fall in 
with the European custom of quarantine. ‘The Baro- 
ness Minutuli tells us, however, that “in 1811, not- 
withstanding the precautions taken by the Europeans, 
one-third of the Christi bitants were carried off.” 
(page 253.)—What must then the proportion of the 
other inhabitants have been, whose invariable custom 
it is, to assemble round the sick and the dying? Mr. 
Harris, and others who have seen the plague, as well as 
those who have had it, are of opinion that fear invari-~ 
ably predisposes to it; and that it is supposed to have 
been contracted even by sitting on the saddle of the 
common hired donkeys, after a plague patient. In 
the same way we are told that fever has often been 
eaught in London, in a hackney coach. In 1832-3, 
when the cholera was raging in Egypt, the sick were 
remoyed to tents apart from others ; and a quarantine 

During the provitlence of the “QN'ramaven” winds, In the spring of this 
present year (1841), the plague again appeared, together with yellow fever 
anilother diseases. "Tho report wus as follows:— On the 26th of April, the 
deaths from plague were clght; persons attacked anil rewoved to the hospital 
at Alexandria, uine ; other deathe, Aficen, ‘The general mortality at Cairo, 
‘ainonnted to 120 per diem, ut the deaths fran plague there, were few im 


comparison with those from fever, amatl-paz, ohotera, fe.” 
4 Light's Travels, p. 6. 





MODERN EGYPTIANS.—THE POLICE. 137 


was established. The ships also went into harbour as the 
disease appeared. Tt lasted about a month, destroying 
thirty-five and forty daily at Alexandria, and at one 
time, as many as 700 and 800 per diem! ‘The deaths at 
Cairo, amounted to 2000.4 day! The “Mufti Gehaat,” 
a frigate having 400 men on board, lost 350, burying 
from twenty-five to thirty every night! Whilst these 
things were going on, Mohammed Ali was cruizing on 
board the * Bahira’ frigate (60 guns). At last, he was 
obliged to go ashore; for the disease appeared, and 
they had to put six men overboard in the night. It 
then showed itself in the palace, and the Pascha took 
refuge with Boghos Youssonf, and afterwards with 
Moharrem Bey—in a great fright! The Europeans 
suffered also considerably. One English captain assu- 
red me that he cured several patients himself.—*I 
took from them,” said he, ‘from one to three pints of 
blood; and I gave them at the same time, a teaspoon- 
Jul of calomel, and washed it down with brandy” !1*— 
‘The present race of Egyptians are shrewd, quick, 
and cunning; they have a great talent for music and 
languages ; but their Arabic is not the purest; it is 
mixed up with many Turkish and Greek words. The 
Italian which is spoken by the Maltese and others in 
the Levant is quite peculiar! partaking most infinitely of 
“infinitives ;""—thus, “Mi volere andare in casa.”’ “Mi 
non so Signor, si potere avere lei i mangiare adesso!” 
The police of Alexandria is good, but “entirely 
military. The streets are kept in excellent order; 
and at night, the inhabitants are obliged by law, to take 
alanthorn out with them. Every decree is absolute, 
and no one has a right to'thin‘ for himself. The sol- 
* Active practice this! Mut thero Is nodoubt that some persons did recorer 


under bis bands, by some means of other, Vide Chap, (11, and 1V, Vol, [15 
also Appendix, 





138 THE MILITARY.—SELF-MAIMING, 


diers are often very insolent, and presume upon their 
authority, having recourse to petty acts of oppression 5 
such as taking a poor boy's donkey away, without pay- 
ing him for the use of it, and making the lad run after 
him through the town, pretending that he is on govern- 
ment business ; and the poor fellow may think himself 
well off to make his escape without a good beating 
into the bargain. In like manner, they go to stalls, and 
commit all kinds of extortions with impunity, ina small 
way; and it is of very little use for the people to re- 
monstrate, for they are sure to come off second best. 
These things therefore, and the like, contribute to 
sharpen the intellect, and artful; they in- 
duce them also to tell lies, 

and make all sorts of protes 

The soldiers wear som 

but they are made of very , dingy red cloth, 
which you may all but see th —the dress con- 
sists chiefly of a sort of jacket and trowsers, like a 
great over grown school-b except that the panta- 
loons are full at the upper and a scarf is bound 
round the waist: they wear e red Tunis cap, 
(the *tabouseh,”) and carry a usket, bayonet, and 
sabre. They make but a sorry appearance; and a 
great many of them are inexperienced boys of sixteen 
and seventeen, who have been d, 

The Arabs have a very strong : natural aversion 
to a military life; and when they know that any recruit- 
ing is going forward, nothing is more common than for 
them to cut and maim themselves, in order to escape 
being taken from their families. They not only chop 
off the fore-finger of the right hand, but they have 
even been known to put out their own, and their chil- 
dren’s eyes, with sharp instruments or corrosive sub- 
stances: such is their hatred of Mohammed Ali, and 





DECREE CONCERNING RECRUITS. 139 


their love of home! It must not be supposed that the 
Arabs are cowards: this is far from being the case; 
but they are naturally industrious, social, and domes- 
ticated, fond of their children, and well disposed to all 
who use them well. ‘This effort to elude the Pascha’s 
vigilance succeeded for a time, but was attended in 
the end, with most disastrous consequences. Terrible 
punishments were inflicted; and very often the innocent, 
who had been blind or maimed from other causes, be- 
came the victims of aset of wretches, who, finding that 
decree had gone forth on the subject, threatened to 
hand them over to the authorities if they did not answer 
their demands, In the summer of 1832, all influen- 
tial men were required to furnish a certain number of 
soldiers under a penalty of 700 piastres (about 10/,) for 
each default. This occasioned such a search, and so 
many were seized and sent away from their homes, 
that the villages and towns were filled with lamenta- 
tion; every thing was at a stand, and the women went 
about shricking and wailing, as for the dead.* 

‘The European discipline has been introduced both 
in the army and navy. At first, so important an inno- 

* The Deerce of Mohamined Ali, relative to recruits. 

Moreh 12, 1899, 
“To the Military Governors of Districts 

“ Wuih reepoet to the men whom we take forthe service of our vitarlous 
armies and navicreOn thelr way to us, some draw thelr tevth, some put out 
thelr eyes, and others break thelr arms, or in other ways main themaelves, 
ponlete necessity of sending back the greater part, and causing: 


‘them, let them know that they must uot maim theruselves, because £ will take 
from the family of every such offender, men in his place:—and he who has 
maimed himself shall be sent to the galleys forlifer 1 have alrvady on my 





140 THE NAVY.—CLIMATE. 


vation occasioned a revolt, but it was easily crushed. 
It is sometimes difficult to distinguish a soldier from a 
sailor by his dress : but the latter bears a small brass 
anchor between the shoulders. When the sailors 
come on shore, they fall in, rank and file, and march 
away tothe sound of the drum and fife; and many 
familiar English and French Airs—* Life let us 
cherish,” “ Malbrook,” “Le valliant Troubadour,” 
and the like, reached my ear. 

There is a constant bustle and activity going on at 
Alexandria, and were the town in the hands of Euro- 
peans, it might be made a pleasant place of residence. 
It is seen to great disadvantage in its present desolate 
and filthy condition, It is a mistake to suppose that 
the climate is bad. The weather is more variable than 
at Cairo: but an occasional ris any thing but 
objectionable, for rain is a rarity in Egypt. The sun 
is sometimes hot, but the thermometer seldom rises 
above 86° in the shade. In a general way, there is 
a difference of about eight or ten degrees between 
Alexandria and Cairo. The wind blows off the sea 
during ten months of the year: it is generally N.W. 
or West during the day, and “norths” a little towards 
night, It is to this that the salubrity of the town is 
chiefly owing. The salt lakes in the vicinity are not 
found to occasion any inconvenience. And the Franks 
are for the most part as healthy as they can expect 
to be, ina city where there is so little attention to 
cleanliness, ventilation, and draining. Those who do not 
live temperately, are sure to contract disease, and 
thea they die off quickly, Many bring complaints upon 
themselves by acts of imprudence, viz. by exposing 
themselves to the extreme heat by day, and to the 
heavy dews at night, or by errors in diet, It is melan- 





OPHTHALMIA AND CONSUMPTION, 41 


choly to observe the effects of opbthalmia, not only 
among the Franks, but among the natives, and the 
disease is brought on chiefly by these causes. Upon 
the whole, I should say, that those who complain of the 
climate of Alexandria, find fault without a cause, and 
the remedy is often with themselves. A highly favor- 
able opinion was entertained of the situation formerly : 
the Greek physicians used commonly to recommend 
consumptive patients to take up their abode there; 
and for my part, I see no objection to it, provided they 
could always insure proper medical advice. 1 know 
those myself who retired to Egypt some years ago, 
afier having been declared consumptive by physicians, 
and who not only recovered a certain degree of health, 
but are alive now, and have been able to return to 
Europe. 

The day at last arrived that we were to take our 
leave, for the present, of the plains of Aboukir. They 
are bounded by the sea, and by the site of Lake Mareotis. 
‘The remains of various ancient buildings are scattered 
along the shore: but nothing very distinct can be made 
out concerning them. The spot is chiefly interesting to 
Englishmen, on account of the famous battle fought 
there by Sir Ralph Abercrombie, on the 21st of March 
1801, We took the road to the Rosetta gate as before: 
the position of the French lines on the sandy heights 
to the right, I have already described; and it will be 
seen that their advantage must have been great. 

Proceeding about two miles farther to the east- 
ward, we came to the ruins of the old Roman fort, 
or as it is sometimes called, Caesar's Palace; but 
it is so dilapidated, that it will pass for that or any 
thing else, equally well. Here we found some Arabs 
assembled, who brought us pieces of coloured glass 





142 PLAINS OF AOUKIR.—ABERCROMBIE. 


and stones, a few scraps of pottery, and some bits 
of metal, to sell as @ntiques, but which nobody 
purchased. Not far from hence, is pointed out the 
spot on which our gallant countryman received bis 
death wound, just as the “trumpet called a victory.” 
The white marble monument which was erected on 
the spot to his memory, has, I am sorry to say, 
long disappeared. The time is at hand, 1 hope, 
when one of granite will supply its place! When 
Colonel Campbell complained to the Pascha of the 
outrage committed, as was supposed by his consent, 
upon the pedestal of the English obelisque, His 
Highness sent him the inscription belonging to Aber- 
crombie’s tomb at Aboukir, as a recompense! It 
was ona large tablet of white marble, and has since 
been transported to England! We rambled over 
the plain, in various directions, and discovered a 
great quantity of human bones that had been bleached 
in the sun, and were still in a perfect state: there was 
no difficulty in finding bones in almost any part, where 
we chose to raise the sand. I put together a complete 
skeleton for Mr. Charles Barker, who was of our 
party, and I brought tol nd the skull, apparently 
of a Frenchman, 

pan performed on it, as it would seem, on account of 
a sabre wound.* 


* The British anchored, ape bay of abpal cat tho bet of March, 1901, under 
Amiral Lond Kelth ; they effected a tan’ 
soveral skirmishes, but no rogular engages 
French had a superior force; nevertheless, 
Jom in “killed, wounded, wad prisoners, at 4000, of whom about 1700 were 
tng 299 Killed, 1250 wounded, 32 
After this ungagement, the English 
Aiflieulty ; but it was deomed too 
hasnedous an undertaking to make a descent on Aloxandrin justthen, ‘There, 
‘ond at Fort 8t, Julien which comma ile, the troops obtained water 
‘and provisions, and when Abercrombie fell, the command devolved upon General 
Hutehinson, 





ANCIENT RECORDS.—REFLECTIONS. 143 


Perhaps, then, we may be allowed to assert that few 
places in the known world are more interesting to the 
traveller than Alexandria. It abounds in delightful 
associations ; but it has never been properly explored. 
I am convineed that if it should ever fall into the 
hands of Europeans, much that is valuable will be 
revealed. I know of no place in Egypt which offers 
such a rich source of objects worthy of contemplation ; 
and it is more than probable that the rubbish on which 
we so unconsciously tread, incloses documents and 
relics, which, could we obtain access to them, would 
throw a light upon many things connected with the 
early history of the country, if not of the human race. 
We are taught to believe that there, the records of 
the Egyptian priests were first translated into the 
language of the country; and that there, the Divine 
laws which were given to the Jews, were also made 
intelligible to the Gentiles; for it is considered 
‘certain, that the Pentateuch was translated by Alex- 
andrian Jews for the use of the Synagogue, about 285 
years before the Christian Era, and that the Prophets 
were translated as early as the time of Antiochus 
Epiphanes.”* Alexandria was formerly designated 
“the city of Interpreters,” and was famous for her 
learning and her institutions. Where are her wise 
men now? What has become of all her greatness 
and her wisdom? Behold! the idols of Egypt have 
all been pulled down and destroyed ;—even Serapis, 
the mighty Serapis, has been overthrown: and the 
tites of Canopus are no longer celebrated! ‘The se- 
veral sites of Bucharis, Heracleum, Taposiris, and 
Thonis are disputed. The renowned deeds of Pompey 


* Seo Owen's Enquiry into the Septuagint, 8vo, 1770. p. % 





ltd FULFILMENT OF PROPHECY. 


and Casar, the Saracens, Saladin and the Crusaders, 
are talked of as nursery tales: they are remembered 
asa dream, and give place to the history of modern 
times, with which we are familiar. The most debased 
ignorance and superstition have succeeded to the over- 
throw of idolatry; and the language of the Septuagint 
is now scarcely known : but the sufferings of the early 
Christians, and the sighs of St. Mark, will long be re- 
corded in the masses of mouldering ruins which lie at 
our feet, When, however, in progress of time, they 
disappear, and their original situation is unknown, or 
marked only by accumulated masses of earth, their 
yery absence will proclaim their former history: and if 
there be nothing else,—if there remain not a vestige 
of these stupendous monuments, the very want of 
it will suffice to convince us of the power and justice 
of the Almighty, and the unerring truth of the Divine 
Revelation. At present, we see in them, as every 
where else throughout Egypt, “from Syene down to 
the sea,” that the word of God has indeed been 
fulfilled: for there is not one stone left upon another, 
that has escaped dishonour : all is rnin and desolation: 
and the ancient glory of Alexandria, like the perish- 
able beauty of Cleopatra, has passed away as a shadow, 
and returned to its native dust! 





CHAPTER V. 


JOURNEY ACROSS THE DESERT FROM ALEXANDRIA 
TO ROSETTA, 


We now prepared for our journey into the interior ;* 
and having collected all the information we could, and 
taken leave of our friends, we set forth at three o'clock 
in the afternoon, mounted on donkeys, for which we 
paid ten piastres each, to Rosetta. One animal extra 
carried our baggage :—the guide went on foot. We 
proceeded by the direct course to the inner wall, which 


we passed, near to the grand “ Okellah” after having 
shown our “ 'Teskereh."*} 

We soon arrived at the outer wall, and left the 
town, as on a former occasion, by the “ Bab el Ras- 
chid,” or Rosetta gate. The walls are in good pre- 
servation; they are very thick, and have been lately 
repaired and strengthened by Mohammed Ali, The 
desert lay before us. On the right, we beheld the 


* Tho only articles we found it necessary to buy at Alexandria were, 
‘woollen mnttrass, about an inch and a half thick, (to be employed as a bed, or 
diyan furnitare,) for cach person: some pipes and tobacco: ® good stock of 
tea, for there is none to be got In the upper country, a few bottles of French 
Brandy, some Marsala Wine, and a couple of blankets. I ulso vugyested a pair 
of shoots, sewed up at the end and sides, and provided with m running string at 
the top, so ms to keep ont the fleas, scorpions, and snakes, and this we found 
to anamor admnirably + lastly, a largo square bag, 40 made that it might either 
be useil as a bog, oF; bolng stuifed with cotton, as & head pillow. 

1 A Rind of pamport granted by the gorerameat to all who are ging 
Journey, and have baggage. For this custom ¥ believe the Egyptians are in 
‘nebted to the French. 


Vou. tl. L 





M46 ABOUKIR BAY.—BUCHARIS. 


mounds thrown up, and the remains of the trenches 
dug by General Menou; on the left, a few scattered 
ruins of ancient towns, but of which nothing has been 
distinctly made out. In the distance, lay the little island 
and rock of Aboukir, just at the commencement of the 
Bay. We now entered fairly upon the desert, where 
we saw but few signs of vegetation, after the first two 
or three miles. Near the sea were the remains of some 
columns, and a little farther on, a poor miserable village 
in the midst of palms; it consists of wretched looking 
hovels, whose inhabitants are supposed to represent the 
people of the ancient city of Bucharis, of which, 
however, there is hardly a vestige even of the founda- 
tion, Not far off is the equally mean and neglected 
settlement of Aboukir, which gives a name to the Bay 
formed by this projecting point on the one side, and by 
asimilar point (that of “ Raschid’ or Rosetta) on the 
other. The reader need scarcely be reminded that it 
was here that the British Admiral, afterwards Lord 
Nelson, destroyed the French fleet. ‘The distance 
between the Pharos Castle of Alexandria and the 
point of Aboukir, is five leagues, and from thence to 
the Rosetta mouth of the Nile, is sixteen miles. On 
the point stands the old Castle of Aboukir, a place of 
no moment, except as a land-mark. The whole coast 
is low and sandy, and very dangerous on account of 
shoal water and sunken rocks: there is nevertheless, 
good anchorage in six and six and a half fathoms, for 
those acquainted with the bay. Extending half a 
league to the N.E. of what is called Aboukir Island, is 
the reef on which the * Culloden’ struck in going to 
attack the French fleet. On the eastern side of the 
bay, there is as much as seven and eight fathoms of 
water, and it is not, I believe, generally known, that in 





ANCHORAGE.—THE ARAB CHARACTER. M7 


making the land, that is, in ranning for Aboukir, the 
soundings are very uncertain ; in some parts, varying 
on a sudden as much as ten fathoms,—a thing very 
likely to deceive; for the shore is so low that it cannot 
always be seen, although the distance may not be very 
The wreck of the French Admiral’s ship 
“L/Orient” lies about two miles and a half to the 
N.W. of the island, and that of two other frigates 
about three miles and a quarter to the S.W, of it. 
To the westward of the village of Etko, about a mile 
off shore, there is another wreck; and on the fourth of 
March 1801, the “ Foudroyant” struck on a shoal, also 
supposed to have been produced by a wreck. The 
Pascha takes no measures to remedy or remove these 
evils, although he knows that the Bay.of Aboukir is 
the only place the Egyptian fleet can run for in bad 
weather. Many a ship goes to pieces on this coast, and 
others lose their masts and cables. Near the village, is 
a khan, affording a poor shelter to those passing and 
re-passing between Rosetta and Alexandria; and this 
was to be our dormitory that night. We arrived there 
about sun-set, and found it oceupied by a number of 
people quite of the lowest deseription, We anticipated 
amiserable night ; for it may be said of an Arab Fellab, 
equally as of Catiline—that he is not only distinguished 
by the “corpus patiens inedice,” but also “vigilia, 
supra quam cuiquam credibile est." Nay, we may even 
go farther; and following up the comparison in regard 
to mind as well as body, we may add “ animus audax, 
subdolus, varius, cujuslibet rei simulator ac dissi- 
mulator: alient appetens, *** **; ardens in cupidi~ 

tatibus, satis eloquentia, sapientie parum.”* 
We had a fair prospect of taking up our abode along 

* Saltustii Bellam Catilinarium, 
L2 





4s . THE KHAN OF THE WILDERNESS. 


with the guide, and the ofher beasts of burthen, on the 
wrong side of the door; or at all events, if * mine host 
of the khan” did make room for us, of having our 
rest disturbed by the entertaining discussions within, 
which were not only unintelligible in themselves, but 
conducted with so much vehemence of tone and 
manner, as to leave us sometimes in doubt, whether 
they would not be settled at last, vi et armis! This 
idea originated in our own want of experience. The 
dispositions of men cannot always be determined by their 
exterior. These inoffensive people required repose as 
well as ourselves; and though I have likened them to 
Catiline in some respects, I should be sorry to do so 
in all: and we soon learned better to appreciate the 
Arab character, than to misinterpret the ardour of their 
gesticulations, and the natural warmth of their feelings. 

The khan consisted of one very small room; adjoin- 
ing which, was a shed open in front. The former was 
literally crammed with people, who were sitting round a 
fire made on the hearth, in noisy conclave, and gave us. 
not the most indirect hint that they meditated such a 
thing as departure before morning. To us, who were as 
yet unaccustomed to that sort of dog sleep which is 
almost necessary for those who travel in the desert, this 
was no trifling thing. ‘The room was full of smoke, 
partly from tobacco, but chiefly from fuel—oppressively 
hot inside, chill and damp without. Nevertheless, we 
preferred spreading our mats on some benches that 
were near the wall, in the shed. We had scarcely done 
so, when suddenly a movement was made among the 
Arabs; and in a few minutes, they set out for Alex- 
andria. We did not shift our position, Mohammed 
pre| us some tea, and set before us some. cold 
meat, which was followed up by the now familiar and 





THE GRAVES OF ADOUKIN. 149 


friendly Uchibouque. After a short doze, Bradford 
started up ina fright, declaring that he felt some one 
pulling under his bedding; and that he was positive 
either the guide or somebody else, was trying to indulge 
his pilfering propensities. (*alieni appetens!”) We 
reconnoitered the place, but all was still. Lighting 
the taper of my dark lanthorn, T went quietly round 
the building, whilst Bradford stood sentry over our 
goods and chattels within. On the ground at our feet, 
lay Mohammed—snoring ! a short distance off, lay our 
guide—ditto !—those who remained of the Arabs, 
were snugly stretched in the apartment, by the still 
glowing embers; and the door was all but closed. 
Now for the exterior. Every thing was as still as the 
grave! The moon was not yet visible; but the at- 
mosphere was brilliantly illuminated, and there was not 
a cloud to be seen. Had the occasion suited, it would 
have been far from uninteresting to have taken a me- 
lancholy stroll among the unmarked, solemn graves of 
Aboukir, over which no tear has yet been shed, nor has 
any sigh been heaved, unless from the bosom of the pass- 
ing stranger; and the sad fate of whose inmates has 
been recorded in history, and lamented and mourned by 
their unhappy relatives. But this was no time for such 
reflections, and yet 1 could not help thinking how many 
that are now fatherless, and brotherless, or widows, 
would gladly, yet sorrowfully, have stood where I then 
did! It may be some consolation to them to think 
that the memory of their departed friends was respected 
by a countryman! I returned to the khan and found 
all still, except my companion, who was far from being 
satisfied with his situation, I laughed at his misfor- 
tunes, and told him that he must have been dreaming, 
or had the night-mare, for (hat nothing was to be heard 





150 DYKES.—LAKE MAREOTIS. 


but the donkeys champing their “ tibbin!’* — The rest 
of the night passed without interruption, except occa- 
sionally from vermin! We arose before day-break, 
and having taken our coffee, again set forward, and 
were not a little entertained, when Mohammed told us 
that one of the donkeys had been amusing himself at 
the khan, by tugging at the straw which formed the 
stuffing of Bradford’s saddle, and that the guide was 
in a great rage about it. ‘This explained the last 
night's adventure: of which, however, Mohammed 
knew nothing, being a capital sleeper, and he was no 
doubt accustomed to such stories. The saddle had 
been deposited close at our friend’s head; indeed he 
had placed his pillow against it, and the covering 
being torn, the poor animal was tempted to explore 
the nature of its contents, and hence disturbed his rider, 
who concluded that nothing short of robbery* was 
intended, but little thought from what quarter the 
intrusion came } 

Leaving the khan, we soon reached the shores of the 
bay; and as the sun began to rise, we passed along 
the narrow slip of land which divides the Lake 
Mareotis from the sea. It was here that the British, 
under General Hutchinson, as a means of defence 
against superior numbers, cut away the embankment, 
which had stood for ages;} and thus inundated the 
country. The General consented to this measure with 
reluctance ; but he was constrained to do it by the 
army, who were too sensible of the advantages they 

* In Egypt they have no hay, but feed these animals, as well us the horses 
and ax, on “ tibbin," (chopped straw.) 

+ This was similar to some of the great dykes of Holland and Lincolnabsire x 
witness tho forme dyke near Croyland Abbey, and the sluice’ gutes of Amater- 
dam; aloo thove near the old fishing villages of Gmnevellinge and Cadwick, 


which are still more remarkable, the walls being ten fect thick, and each gate 
‘weighing 11,000 pounds. ‘This last mentioned sluice cost 248,000 florins, 





CAMPAIGN OF 1801. 1st 


would gain by it over the enemy, not to urge it as a 
matter of necessity. It had become a favourite 
measure: the minds of the soldiers were inflamed at the 
idea, and they had been still more excited to the act, in 
consequence of the fears expressed in a letter found 
in General Roiz’s pocket, that the English would 
strengthen their position by such a step. The manner 
of it is thus described by Sir Thomas Wilson :—* Four 
cuts were made, of six yards in breadth, and about ten 
from each other: the water rushed in with a fall of six 
feet: and the pride and peculiar care of Egypt, the 
consolidation of ages, was in a few hours destroyed by 
the devastating hand of man. ‘The water continued 
entering for a month with considerable foree."* 

This step certainly gave a most decisive blow to the 
success of the French; for it was what they most 
dreaded, and such as they could not possibly have pre- 
vented. The English had already taken possession of 
Rosetta and Fort St. Julien, and therefore, while they 
were furnished with abundance of provisions, and their 
strength recruited, they received protection from a 
source which at first they had not contemplated, but 
which was equivalent to perhaps three times the number 
of troops. The spirits of the English rose in propor 
tion as the panic gained upon the enemy's troops, 
already discontented, and suffering from ophthalmia. 

A mere glance at the map will show what a very 
important step this must have been at such a crisis: 
and the position held by the British army will appear at 
onee. The Turks subsequently attempted to repair 
the embankment, and they built up strong walls. 
‘They succeeded to a certain extent: but they have not 
been able to prevent the passage of the sea entirely, 

© Wilson's Aistory, p. 65. 





152 HERACLIUM.— CANOPUS, 


The waters of the Lake Mareotis are saltish, and im 
the vicinity of the bay, a great quantity of the mineral 
is collected as the fluid evaporates. We continued 
along the borders of Lake Aboukir, and having pro- 
ceeded about eight miles from the khan, we came to a 
tapid stream, which is now the mouth of Lake Etko; 
and there cannot be a doubt, I think, as to this havi 
been the celebrated Canopic branch of the Nile. But 
where was Canopus? ‘That is a question not easily 
determined. From the account given by Strabo, it has 
been inferred that the town of “Heraclium” was 
literally befween Canopus and the Canopic mouth; 
and the words* he uses are very plain; but they are 
by no means such as to authorize us to place Canopus 
so far to the westward as we see it in our maps,—put 
down close to the point of Aboukir, and as near as 
may be, occupying the position of the lake; indeed 
just where the water enters from the sea. We have 
only to compare the ancient and modern maps, and we 
shall remark this at once. It certainly does appear to 
me, that the decision which persons have come to on 
this subject, is not at all satisfactory; and I would 
rather have placed Canopus at, or close to, the most 
western point of land bounding the Canopic mouth 
and I think the words of Strabo would equally justify 
our doing so: for it is fair to suppose that this branch 
of the Nile was named after the principal and most 
renowned city in its #mnedaite neighbourhood, and to 
which it led. Now, we have sufficient proof that the 
sea has made considerable inroads in this part: and 
there are legitimate grounds for believing that we do 
not behold these shores as they once were. 


* * E Canopich porth exeunt! nd dextram est fossa, qui tacul Jungitur, et 
fort Post Canopum est Heracliam quod Hercalls templam habet, 
Inde est Canopicum ostium, et ipsins Delta tnitium.” Oxford Strnbo, pp. 1135,6. 





ZEPHYRIUM PROMONTORY.—THONIS. 153 


Keeping then in view what I have already 
mentioned, viz,—that the whole of the western side of 
the Bay of Aboukir abounds in rocks and shoals, and 
that the eastern side is comparatively free from them,— 
that as the north-westerly winds prevail during ten 
months of the year, and the currents on the southern 
shores of the Mediterranean, run strong to the east- 
ward,—a very heavy sea would (and frequently does) 
flow into the bay, and the eastern side of it alone would 
feel its force, the western being protected by the point 
of Aboukir ;* (or as it is thought then to have been 
called, the “ Zephyrium Promontory,” of Strabo, 
where also stood the city of Thonis.) Keeping 
these things in view, we may with propriety conceive, 
that the western boundary of the Canopic Mouth pro- 
jected farther into the sea than at present ; especially 
as the current of the stream runs strong in that direction, 
eyen now; whereas formerly, when it proceeded from 
the Nile instead of Lake Etko, its force must have 
been equal to that of the Nile, viz.—three and three 
miles and a half an hour, at ordinary times ; and when 
the river was at its height, not less than five miles an 
hour. It is easy to understand that the force of this 
river on the one side, and the violence of the wind and 
the waves on the other, would effectually wear away 
the land until it completely rounded the point ; and in 
the present day, the form of the bay is semicircular 
and rendered equal. If then it be granted, that this, 
the Canopie Promontory, formerly extended farther 
than it now does, (and the fact almost amounts to a 
demonstration,) we may with equal justice suppose, 
and with very little stretch of the imagination, that the 


* A thot which Is proved by the extraordinary accumnalation of wrecks in the 
present day ; whereas none are ever found on the western shores of the Bay. 


: 





154 THE HERACLION, AND PERRY. 


city of Canopus stood upon it ; that it was a sea-port 
town, and extended westerly ; and also, that the town 
of Heraclium stood on the banks of the river, next in 
order, and close to the city of Canopus, on the spot 
marked by the khan or ferry house.* We are assured 
that Canopus was fifteen miles east of Alexandria, 
which the spot to which T have referred, it would be; 
and moreover, that the Canopic brauch of the Nile 
was also called the Heraclion, after the other city, 
which was famous for a temple dedicated to Jupiter. 
If my ideas are supported by probability, and approach 
to anything like truth, the description given by Strabo 
still holds good, and is not interfered with in the least: 
for that writer would naturally speak of the chief city 
Jirst, more particularly as it was so much in vogue, and 
as a dyke or canal} (fossa) led to it from Alexandria : 
after that, he would speak of Heraclium, next in 
situation and importance ; and lastly, of the river itself, 
and the beginning of the Delta, beyond it, just as now 
we speak of the view of the Delta, when we are on the 
banks of the Nile at Rosetta. I would therefore com- 
pare the situation of Heraclium to that of Rosetta, and 
tefer Canopus to what may justly be denominated the 
Canopie point or promontory, now washed by the sea, 
and nearly obliterated. It may have extended some 

* Lallude to tho building on the wostorn wide of the etre 5 eis Khan te 
said to have boon bullt by @ Moor of Cairo, 

+ The torr in the original is “fossa,” which moans Ayko or ditch, bat as we 
tare told that this formed tho medium of communication between the two towns, 
Ab iy probable that it was actually a dyke, similar to the immense fone dykes ln. 
‘Lincolnshire, and in Holland ; by which the land ts drained, and the sea kept 
‘out, (as alrendy alluded to in page 150.) Tn this way there wonld be an ex 
alent enbankmont and oansewsy for pastongers; and in all probability, there 
‘was a canal by tho side of it, for bouts. Moreover, though wo do not rend of 
it it is very Ikely that a similar branch and canal extended between the luke 
and Taposiris, for the distance is not great. Perhaps, ere long, we shall hear 
‘of the communication being made between Alexandria and Hosetta, by = raile 
way! 





VOTARIES OF SERAPIS. 155 


distance in-land, towards the Lake Mareotis, and we may 
imagine the inhabitants of Alexandria amusing them- 
selves on the lake, fishing, and rowing about in boats, 
making excursions to Canopus by the canal, and thence 
to Heraclium and the Nile, as we know they did, and 
giving themselves up to all kinds of pleasure and 
sensual delight, such as the luxurious atmosphere of 
Egypt is so peculiarly calculated to promote, and such 
as the dissolute votaries of Serapis, and the licentious 
inhabitants of Canopus, were both known to cultivate 
and to indulge, to the utmost of their power, striving 
to invent fresh sources of happiness, and sacrificing all 
things else to the gratification of voluptuous desires. 
Shakspeare, in his tragedy of Antony and Cleopatra, 
gives us many specimens of the luxury and genial cli- 
mate of Egypt. The practices of the people too were 
well remembered in his brilliant description of the 
Queen; and it is a beautiful illustration of the subject 
before us. Enobarbus says to Agrippa, on his return 
from the east,— 

© The barge she ant in, like» bumnish’il throne 

Burn’d on the water ; the poop was beaten gold ; 

Purple tho wails, and 90 perfumed, that 

The winids were loreaick with thera; the ours were sliver; 

‘Which, to the tune of fates kept stroke, and made 

‘The water which thoy beat, to follow faster, 

As amorons of their strokes. For her own parson, 

Tt beggar’ all description; sbe did lio 

In her pavilion, (cloth of gold, of tissae,) 

O'erpicturing that Venus, where we see, 

‘The fancy outwork, nature ; on each side her, 

Stood pretty dlimpled boys, lke smiling eupida, 


“Oh, rare for Antony !”— 
© Mer gentlewomen, like the Nereldes, 
So many mermaids tended ier, "the eyrs, 





* Adiled to the warmth they were intended to diminish 





EGYPTIAN LUXURY. 


And made their bends adornings ; at the helm 
A secralng mermaid steers; the silken tackle 
‘Swell with the touches of those flower-soft hands, 
‘That yaroly frame* the office. From the barge, 
A strange invisible perfume bite the sense 
Of the adjacent wharfs. The city cast 
Ter people out upon her ; and Antony, 
Enthron’d in the market-pilace, did ait alone, 
‘Whistiing to the aie; whieh but for vacancy, 
Had gone to gree on Cleopatra 400, 
And made 0 gap in nature." 

Agrippa.“ Raro Rgyptinn!” 

Knobarb. “Upon her landing, Antony sent to hor, 
Tuvitod her to suppers she replied, 
Tt should be better he became her yuost 
Which she {ntreated: our courteous Antony, 
‘Whom never the word of ‘ No'—woman heard speak, 
Boing barber'd ton times o'er, goes to the feust, 
And, for his ordinary,—pays hie hoart, 
For what his eyes eat only !"¢ 


‘Truly, the fancy may with ease depict the beauteous 
Cleopatra languishing on th unrufiled waters of 
the lake, beneath a glowing, cloudless sky, inhaling 


new life at every breath, tast delicious fruits of 
Paradise, and revelling in all the luxury of Oriental 
magnificence. We mi to ourselves the love- 
sick fairy-queen reposing under a canopy of silk and 
gold, fanned by her Bushlog juvenile attendants, and 
lulled by the soothing “ harmony of sweet sounds,”"— 
or lending a grateful ear to the soft impassioned ac- 
cents of a favoured suitor. We may imagine hundreds 
like her, but in more humble state, reclining on a 
silken Iris couch, within a painted barge, shedding on 
all around, the lustre of their charms but ill concealed, 
and inflaming the enraptured senses by the delicate 
touch of dulcimer or lyre,— 

* Roadily perform, 

+ Alludiog to an axiom in the Peripatetic plilorophy—that “nature abhors 


= yocuum.” 
+ Antony and Cleopatr, Act, I. Scene 2. 





THE INFLUENCE OF MUSIC, 


“© Whoee trembling strings about their Oagers erowd, 

-And tell their Joy for every kiss alond. 

Small foree there neods to make them tremble #0 = 

‘Toueh'd by such hands,—who would not tremble too? 

‘Tero love takes stand, and whilst they charm the ear, 

Empticn his quivor on the lst'ning deer. 

Mosic so softens and disarms the miod, 

‘That not an arrow can realatance fad. 

So Nero once, with burp in hund, survey 

His lamning Rome! and whist she burnt, he played !"— 

Warurn, 
Thus, no doubt, in the earlier ages of the world, as 

at the present day, were the influence and ascendancy 
of woman felt and acknowledged! Poets and his- 
torians have described the loveliest and fairest then, 
as now (for human nature is still the same,) admiring, 
courted and admired, and as much the modellers of 
society, but unrestrained by the usages of refined 
example, as little accustomed to suppress as to conceal 
their feelings; and actuated rather by the violence 
of passion and a luxurious education, than the dic- 
tates of reason or reflection, we may conceive them, 
in gentle sighs venturing to tell their love, and in 
the ardour of unfeigned affection, daring to express 
in words, the thoughts which tender looks so elo- 
quently spoke.* 

* Witners the pansion entertained by Dido for Enens: beautifully described 
by Virgil, in the fourth book of the Aineld: and the tender confession of 
Desdemona to the swarthy Moor, the recital of whose “ truvel’s history" called 
forth the maiden's pity, and beguiled tier of her tenrs.” Nay more: tt drew 
from her 

= © A prayer of earnest heart 

‘That he would all his pilgrimage dilate, 
Whereof by parcels she had something heard, 
But not distinctively 2"— 
She lent a willing car to his discourse, secmlngly unconscious of her own con 
it 
see me saw Oerbr vag tn nds 
but nover once percolved her growing sympathy, or dreamed that“ xympathy 


Is akin to loro. 
Mis story boing done, 
‘Sho gave him for hie pains, a world of sighs) 
3 





158 CANOPIC BRANCH OF THE NILE. 


The city of Canopus received its name ftom Cano- 
pus, beautiful youth who died on the coast of Egypt, 
in the vigour of health, in consequence of the bite 
of a serpent. He was the pilot of the vessel of 
Menelaus, and is believed to have been buried in 
this place. 

We soon reached the banks of the stream, the 
supposed Canopic Branch, which we ferried over. 
There were a great many camcls and Arabs at the 
khan, which had just come across, on their way to 
Alexandria, We saluted and passed on: our route 
then lay for some distance along the sea shore, whieh’ 
for miles, was strewed with wreeks; and IT understand 
it is seldom, if ever, that a person’ passes this way 
at any season of the year, without finding some. We 
saw also, I think I may say, thousands of crabs 
playfully running in and out of the sea: but they 
were stnall, and T should think, tasteless. There is, 
1 believe, pretty fair anchorage of the bay for those 
mariners who are acquainted with the coast, but they 
must beware of shoal water; and no one anchors 
in this part but from necessity. Lake Etko was om 
our right: we found the journey along the fim 
sands of the sea, very pleasant: the atmosphere 
was cool and agreeable, and gladly would we have 
continued the same course; but we were destined 
again to enter upon the desert, «and the contrast 
was indeed great. We observed a number of burnt 

‘She sald,—in faith 'twas strange, "twas passing strange j 
"Twas pitiful, "twax wondrous pitifal: 

Sho wish'd she had not heard it: yet she wiah'd 

‘That heaven had made her such » man she thank’ him ; 
‘And bade hm, if li had w frend that lov'd her, 


Ho should but teach his how to tell his story, 
And that would woo her!" 





Othello, Act T, Se. % 





LAND-MARKS OF THE DESERT, 159 


brick land-marks at intervals, erected for the guidance 
of land travellers; and a scanty palm-tree here and 
there presented itself, which Sir Fred. Henviker has 
quaintly compared, to “a corpse carrying its own 
plume of feathers!” We found a yery uncertain 
and treacherous footing, and the heat was intense ; 
for the distance not being considerable, we did not 
halt during the middle of the day, especially as 
there was nothing to shelter us from the sun’s rays. 
Our wisest plan would have been to have staid either 
at the khan, or to have reposed by the water-side, 
for a couple of hours, and refreshed ourselves with 
a bath. 

Our road lay through the most complete desert ; 
as much so, as if we had been in the midst of the 
great Sahara: we passed a well or watering place, 
where we made a short halt, but did not find the 
water very tempting. Our progress was afterwards 
slow; for the animals sunk frequently over the fet- 
locks in the loose sand. As we approached Rosetta, 
the ground became firmer, but more irregular; we 
were often deceived by the Mirage, and fancied we 
saw the town and its plantations, and’ the flowing 
Nile, long before those objects made their appear 
ance. At length we did see the town ; and passing 
over a succession of sand hills, arrived at a grove 
of palm-trees, said to mark the position sustained 
by General Wauchop. The Nile and the gardens 
of Rosetta now came into view, and formed a pleasing 
contrast with the comparatively barren country about 
Alexandria, and still more so with the desert which 
we had just left. We entered the gates between 
four and five o'clock, and passed through the long 
narrow streets of the town to the quay direct, to a 





160 ROSETTA.— ARAB YOLUBILITY. 


sort of shed which answers the purpose of Custom 
House. Our goods were here deposited, and our 
guide, with the animals, discharged. We now pro- 
ceeded to a Turkish Coffee-house, and reposed 
upon the quay, while Mohammed made enquiry about 
@ cand’gia or boat to convey us to Cairo, as we deter- 
mined to sleep on board that night. He was not long 
before he brought us intelligence of his success; and 
his approach was first intimated to us by a strange and 
loud melé of voices; above all of which, the well- 
known guttural accents of our swarthy representative 
were distinctly heard. He came to us, followed by a 
variety of individuals all talking at once, and recom- 
mending their own cand’gias to his notice, of course 
expecting to get a good price from the “ Frangi 
Effendi !”* With some difficulty, Mohammed con- 
trived to clear the road; but they soon returned to 
the charge, and all the skill he had, could not silence 
the tongues of his pursuers, who now became more 
vociferous than ever. 

A janizary of the English Consul, who resided at 
his master’s house at Rosetta, and who happened to 
be passing at the moment, discovering the cause of the 
hubbub, set about belabouring their sides with his 
baton, to our infinite amusement, leaving Mohammed 
and the Reis,f whom the former had selected, in full 
possession of the field. As soon as he could obtain a 
hearing, Mohammed opened his mouth, and com- 
menced his oration. ‘“ Signore!—Se vi piace, ho 
trovato molti capitani che hanno ciasched (ino wn basti-~ 
mento—mai sono quasi tutti, picoli et spérci, ¢ non 


* Bifendi is a title given to any one who cnn read and write, anid is to be 
‘understood to desigaate whoever is connidlered worthy, from his condition, to be 
rauked usa gentleman, 

+ Captain of a boat, 





ASCENDING THE NILE—LA DOGANA. 161 


vallono niénte !—niénte, Signore! Non c’e che uno, 
solaménte, ch’e buéno. Questo uémo, e fel Reis, o 
il capitano: e I'ho portato qui” So he was pro- 
ceeding. In short, he had treated with the man; and 
though I believe he had taken pretty good care of 
himself,—upon the whole, being chafed with the jour 
ney, and anxious to find a resting-place, we inspected 
the boat, and ordered Mohammed to set the man to 
work to clean it well out, &. We next had to 
undergo the process of questioning by the officers, 
and must have submitted to the ceremony of the 
“ Douannes ;” but a few piastres settled the business, 
and saved us a good deal of trouble. In the course of 
about half-an-hour, we found ourselyes for the first 
time in our lives, embarked on the Nile, seated on our 
divans, surrounded by all the paraphernalia of Oriental 
travellers, and not a little pleased to be quietly lodged. 
We soon deposited our baggage, and began to consider 
—what next? With one voice, we voted tea,—our 
universal refuge when heated and fatigued, —after 
which, a bath; et aprés,—tla pipe, and a small cup of 
coffee A la Turque! We were not disposed to do 
much more that evening than lounge about the quay, 
and enjoy the beauty of the scenery, and the refresh- 
ing coolness of the atmosphere; so Mohammed was 
despatched in quest of such articles as he required 
from the bazaar.* 

In passing from Alexandria to Rosetta, we saw a 
great number of lizards, and some chamelions ; and at 
starting, we observed some most beautiful little birds, 

* To wit, a suitable provision-box, some clean Egyptian matting, a chafing 
dish or furnace, a kettle, w couple of stowing-pans, and a gridiron ; a fow eupa 
‘and plates; coffee, charcoal, flint and steel, rice, eggr, meat, and vegetables, 


and much other important matters an were calculated to cheer the outward inn, 
and give comfort to the soul. 


YOU. 1. M 





162 OPTICAL DELUSIONS. —THE “ MIRAGE,” 


of the swallow tribe, but of a rich dark green colour, 
and most glossy plumage. ‘Their habits and manner 
were the same as those of the ordinary swallow of this 
country. But the most singular thing which arrested 
our attention was the “Mirage.” This is certainly 
one of the most extraordinary sights in nature; and 
what the Will-o’-the-Whisp is in low marshy situations, 
such is the Mirage in the dry, parched, sandy desert, 
inasmuch as both have led the weary traveller astray, 
and caused him to wander far away from his path. 
The Mirage, or, as it is best known in the East, the 
Siraub, or Water of the Desert, is chiefly to be 
observed when the atmosphere is most clear, and when 
the sun is at its height. It furnishes a specimen of 
the most perfect eer delusion that can possibly be 
imagined ; 3 and so great i 


the very time that the want of water is most severely 
felt; exerting, therefore, a painful influence over Eu- 
ropeans, when parched and scorched amid the arid 
plains of the wilderness, where at times the ground 
beneath the feet resembles the “hot ashes of a forge,” 
and the surrounding atmosphere is felt “as the vapour 
of a furnace.” The trials of Tantalus were not 
greater than have since been endured by persons who, 
under such circumstances, been so cruelly tam- 
pered with by the Mirage. curious phenomenon 
consists of a sudden appearance, on the horizon, of 


“i 
wanderer, were he left to himself, panting like a hart 
for cooling streams and shadowy dells, would waste his 
strength in search of the refreshing draught; and, 





on “WATER OF THE DESERT.” 163 


attracted farther and farther into the desert by the 
wanton vagaries of nature, and the physical deceptions 
of fancy, would follow up in despair, an endless pursuit 
of that which, however delicious to the eye, or alluring 
to the steps, he may rest content, has really no 
existence but in his own deluded imagination ; for, 
after the extreme mortification of beholding the desired 
objects assume a variety of forms, and retire incessantly 
before him, as if in mockery of his approach, still 
keeping, as it were, upon the horizon, he is all at once 
doomed to suffer the acmé of his disappointment; for, 
on looking up, he discovers that this phantom of his 
fevered brain has suddenly vanished from his sight ; 
or, turning accidentally round, he beholds, to his utter 
astonishment, the self-same objects as far behind him 
in a different direction, or occupying, perhaps, the very 
spot that he had just left. Such was the fate of the 
English and French armies, and such has been the 
fate of many a hapless wanderer, who, having missed 
his way, has sunk down at last, exhausted and faint, 
and perished in the wilderness! I am myself ac- 
quainted with a lady, whose father lost his life in this 
way. She was with him, as a child, helpless and 
feeble, but not deserted. She was protected by a 
faithful servant, and restored to her disconsolate 
family. 

Thirst is, at all times, painful and distressing ; but 
no one can possibly form an idea of what it is to be 
without water in the desert. How much, then, must 
the suffering be aggravated by the apparent existence 
of water, and the certainty, which experience teaches, 
that it is nothing but the Mirage which rises up in 
cruel mockery of our paimt But soit is; and no one 
who has crossed the desert is unacquainted with this 

u 2 





164 THE “ MIRAGE” EXPLAINED. 


extraordinary phenomenon, ‘The landscapes whieh it 
sometimes presents to view are so exquisitely beautiful, 
that those even who reside in the country, and are 
familiar with their nature, cannot always reconcile 
themselyes to the fact of their nonentity. Their 
appearance depends on the variation of density, and 
an alteration in the refractive powers of bodies; and 
the same effects may be produced artificially as are 
observed on the large scale in nature. ‘They are nei- © 
ther confined to sea nor land, and the images are 
multiplied and rendered vertical. ‘The term “ Mirage” 
properly ineans suspension; for at sea, ships and other 
objects frequently appear, not only inverted, but sus- 
pended in the clouds, Some districts are more favour- 
able to the Mirage than others. ‘This is particularly 
the case off the coast of Sicily, and in other voleanic 
districts. The Straits of Messina and the neighbour- 
hood of Reggio are also famous for it. 

‘There is a singular variety of the Mirage, described 
by Brydone in his “Tour through Sicily and Malta;"* 
but the phenomena there alluded to, occur in the 
higher regions of the atmosphere, and generally, during 
the extreme heat of summer, and after the air and the 
sea have been much agitated by winds; and that a 
calm has sueceeded. It is under such circumstances, 
and about the dawn of day, that a great variety of 
singular forms appear—eastles, palaces, woods, and 
gardens, especially in that part of the heavens which is 
over the Straits of Messina. Some of them are at 
rest ; others move about with great rapidity ; and as 
the light i increases, they seem to become more aerial, 
until at last, “some little time,” ‘says Brydone, “before 
sunrise, they entirely disappear.”” 


* Volt p99, 





CIRCUMSTANCES UNDER WHICH IT occuRs. 165 


The Sicilians, with their usual superstition, and 
readiness to refer anything out of the common way, 
to supernatural agencies, give the devil the credit of 
it,—and they certainly come to the point at once, and 
set the matter at rest in a very off-hand way, bidding 
defiance to argument and philosophy. It has been 
referred, like the Aurora Borealis, and many other 
phenomena of nature, to electrical causes; but like 
the Mirage, it is more probably owing to some ex- 
traordinary reflection and refraction, the water of the 
Straits being then calm and unrufiled like a mirror, 
and the atmosphere clear, serene, and bright. It 
should be kept in mind, that the climate of the Medi- 
terranean is very different from that of England. 
Most persons have observed the distortion of objects 
which is produced on a very clear day, when viewed 
through an oscillating medium; and the tremulous 
motion of the atmosphere occasioned by the ascend- 
ing and descending currents immediately above the 
chimney of a furnace, or a baker's oven, where the 
temperature is great, and where there is no smoke, 
is familiar to all. The Mirage, of which the ap- 
pearances just described, probably constitute a variety, 
I would attempt to explain upon the same principle, 
The idea is supported by the experiments of Dr. 
Wollaston. The form of Mirage which I have 
spoken of, as occurring at Reggio in the Straits of 
Messina, has received the name of the “Fata Mor- 
gana.” It appears when the sun’s rays are at an angle 
of about 45° with the sea, and only when the bright 
surface of the water is not disturbed by any wind or 
current; and if any part of the air be loaded with a 
dense vapour, so as to vary and distort the objects, 
and exhibit them in the atmosphere, they are called by 





166 EXPERIMENTS OF DR. WOLLASTON, 


the natives “The castles of the Fairy Morgana.” "The 
experiments of Dr. Wollaston on this subject, are so 
simple and at the same time so important, that they 
cannot be made too generally known. They go to 
prove that all these phenomena “depend on the it 
regular refraction of the rays of light, in passing 
through contiguous portions of air of different densi- 
ties.” He put a little clear syrup into a phial, and 
then poured about an equal quantity of water into it, 
over the syrup. The phial was set on the table, and 
having placed a printed ecard about an inch bebind it, 
whether he looked through the syrup or through the 
water, the letters on the card appeared erect, but 
when seen through that part where the two fluids were 
gradually mixing together, the letters appeared equally 
distinct, but inverted. A similar effect may be pro- 
duced with hot and cold water, or even by two portions 
of cold and heated air. Take two chairs, place them 
back to back, and about a foot apart; connect the 
tops of the chairs by two bits of strong wire, and on 
the wires lay the kitchen poker, the square of which 
has previously been made red hot. Exactly in the di- 
rection of the poker, if you now pin a large printed A 
upon the wall, and look at it along the heated poker, 

images of the A, the 

other two erect! 

The Mirage, we are told, is so considerable in 
the Plains of Pelusium, that shortly after sun-rise, no 
object is recognisable. From the observations of 
Monge, who accompanied the French expedition, it 
appears, that the Mirage will be found in almost 
every country situated between the Tropics, when the 
local circumstances are similar. This gentleman, and 
also Sir David Brewster, who has since examined the 





8m DAVID BREWSTER, AND OTHERS, 167 


subject, both agree with Dr. Wollaston as to the philo- 
sophical mode of explanation. * 


* Mr. Dalby writes in the Philosophical Transactions, that ascending @ hill 
{in the Isle of Wight, he obmerved that the top of another hill, of about the 
‘sane level, soemed to dance up and down as he advanced ; and on bringing hia 
‘eye down to within two feet of the ground, the top of the bill 

detached! oF lifted up from the lower part, the sky being seen under it. This 
he repentedly obsorved, and he adds, that as the sun was rather warm for the 
‘season, with a honvy dow, thore was a gront deal of evaporation. 

Dr. Buchan, walling of the cliff about a mile east of Brighton, in tha lattor 
end of Navember, just as the sun was xislog, saw the face of the cliff on which 
‘he wns standing ropresented precisely opposite to hit, at some distance in the 
wea; and both he and his companion perceived thelr own Agures sanding on 
the summit of the xpparent cliff, as well as the picture of a windmill near 
thom. This phenomenon lasted about ton minutot, when it seemed to be cle= 


apparently gignntie Sgures, on an opposite mountain, which proved tobe thelr 
own shadows 

Capt. Scoresby, in the account given of his voyage to the Groculand Seas, 
‘after deveribing the amusing’ scene ooeasloned by some distant ships, which 
were curiously distorted or inrerted in the air, by means of this wouderful 
Lind of refraction, says, “When looking through the telescope, the coast of ico 
or rock ad often the appearance of the remains of an ancient elty, abounding 
with the ruins of castles, ehurches, snd monuments, with other large and con~ 
splovows buildings. ‘The hills often appeared to be surmounted with turrets, 
battlements, spires, and pinnacles, while others mbjected to another kind of 
refraction, seemed to be large masses of rock suspended in the alr at a conalder= 
able elevation, above the actual terminations of the mountains to which they 
referred, ‘The whole exhibition formed w grund and majestic phantasnagoria, 
Soarcely was the appenranca of any object fully examined and determined, 


of 1891, on the banits of the Thames, when & survey was made with a view to 
ascertain the beight of the river at London Bridge above the sea xt Sheernerss 
Tt was remmrked that an oscillation took place In the particles of the atmo~ 
spher while the sun shone brightly, which was not perceptible when it was 
clouded at the place of observation. This motion was also found to be equal 
Sag ae ai ay Sle a pW ot om 
half the distance between the extreme ovcillations, whenever the run became 





168 = TOWN oF ROSETTA—THE “ BoGaz." 


The town of Rosetta was once of importance; but 
it now contains nothing of interest. The streets are 
long and narrow, and the houses are high, and built 
of red brick, with projecting latticed windows. The 
general form of the town is oblong; it is irregular, and 
of a gloomy, desolate appearance, many of the build- 
ings being deserted. The opening of the canal of 
Alexandria has made a considerable difference to Ro- 
setta; for as comparatively few cargoes are sent round 
hy the “ Bogaz,” it will easily be conceived that the 
trade of Rosetta has materially fallen of.* ‘There is 
accordingly but little doing at the bazaar, beyond that 
which the inhabitants personally stand in need of. 

Rosetta has one large Mosque, with a double mi- 
naret ; and there are several coflee houses. But what 
seems to give the principal character to Rosetta now, 
is its gardens; though they do not merit all that has 
been said in their praise, they are pretty, and certainly 
attractive. The fact is, that when persons arrive from 
Alexandria, they are delighted to behold anything that 


obscured, the wire was found to bisect the object, Query? Mizht not this 
effect have boon produced by the increased reflexion of light, when the sm 
‘was anobscured, on the aqueous particles of the atmosphere, which on 0~ 
count of evaporation, would be considerable on the banks of the river? This 
‘Mirage was #0 reat as to throw doubt on the accuracy of the observations 


that we need not go to Kgypt to see 
of even to the south of Europe, os 
Aominions, Mut no one can possibly form on idea of what is more generally 
tuniterstood by the true Mirage, the “ Siraub,” or Water of the Desert,” 
without baylag seen It In the Hast: there ure so many things associated with 
it that it ennnot be appreciated by description, On this interesting subject, 
seo “ Waddington’s visit to Ethlopia and Dongola,” “ Dr. E, D. Clarke's 
Travels," vol. i p- 205—75 “ Humboldt's Persian Narrative,” yol. liey p- 106, 
rol. lil, pp. 86%, 542, Also, “The Monthly Review for May, 1817," p, % 
“The Penny Magasine,” No. 110, ani the * Athenaumn," p, 200, 

* The “ Bogaa" ie a dangerous sund-bar covered with surf, at the mouth of 
the Nile. See p. 173. 





THE PLAGUES OF EGYPT, 169 


is green, and to taste the sweet waters of the Nile,— 
being but fresh importations from the Desert. Who 
ean be otherwise than transported, on beholding him- 
self on the banks of this magnificent river? On no 
occasion, when travelling in Egypt, ought we to carry 
our European notions with us; and the remark justly 
applies here. There is no enjoyment without alloy : 
our happiness when having taken refuge from the 
scorching sun, is considerably diminished by the 
swarms of flies and mosquitoes which buzz about our 
ears. They are attracted by the gardens and rice 
grounds, which harbour myriads of them. Poor 
Bradford was as usual their peculiar victim ;-and be- 
fore he quitted Rosetta, he discovered that the chief 
plagues of his existence “les pouces,"’ had received a 
very powerful reinforeement from a tribe which he had 
never before encountered. At first he attributed the 
circumstance to our having slept at the khan in the 
desert, among the donkey-saddles; but when he ob- 
served the favourite occupation of the sailors and 
other people on the quay, and remarked that, in strict 
conformity with the Mohammedan law,—when they 
had taken a prisoner, instead of putting him to death, 
they simply cast him from them, he began seriously 
to suspect that some of these unsightly gentry had 
strayed from them to him; or in other words, that 
they had migrated from Arabia to America! This 
was no doubt the case; for it is impossible to escape 
this one of Pharaoh's punishments. A person may 
reside, but no one can travel in Egypt without being 
annoyed, more or less, by these domesticated little 
animals; for they have no respect to persons, and 
having once taken up their abode with you, they 
evince but little desire to depart. Confessedly, to 





170 THE GRAND QUAY. 


Europeans this is very disgusting; but in Egypt, there 
is no remedy for it; and by degrees we get used to it, 
as we do to many other inconveniences. Horrible as 
it may seem, the actual annoyance is not so great as 
that occasioned by the mosquitoes, and the two black 
tribes so common in Europe, and which are peculiarly 
well favoured and prolific in Egypt,—verily, a most im- 
portant adjunct to the army of Liliputian tormentors 
which conspire against the comforts of man. Four- 
and-twenty hours’ neglect will materially add to their 
numbers ; and although attention to cleanliness may 
prevent such increase, it will not banish them entirely. 
The gardens of Rosetta are enclosed by walls. 
They contain abundance of the orange, citron, and 
banana; also the henneh, the pomegranate, and the 
towering palm, whose elegant and gracefully droop- 
ing branches resemble ostrich feathers; but all are 
huddled together indiscriminately, without either taste 
or judgment. These gardens are watered by means 
of the Persian wheel. They are the favorite resort of 
the Arabs, who sit there for hours smoking and sip- 
ping coffee, sheltered from the intense heat of the sun. 
The quay exhibits a lively and agreeable scene. A 
variety of people are constantly passing, and the boat- 
men, when they have nothing ‘else to do, may be seen 
discussing their gains in s upon the ground, or 
relating their adventures a 
‘The place itself is broad, ai 
and there is generally a pretty fair exhibition of 
d’germs and cand’gias of all shapes and sizes, some 
laden with cotton, others wi od; some with grain, 
and some bringing fish from the Bogaz, Rosetta also 
receives the name of “ Raschid,” after the celebrated 
“Khalif Haroun al Raschid,” who is supposed to 





PANORAMA OF THE NILE. 17. 


have been born there. The view of the opposite 
side of the river, the commencement of the far-famed 
Delta, the paradise of Egypt, is interesting. The 
land is quite flat, but cultivated ; and among the long 
groves of lates, are to be seen the Arab villages, with 
their square flat-roofed dwellings, or a few more miser- 
able, windowless, mud huts, of a conical shape, and 
not unlike pigeon-cotes, of which there are also not a 
few; and here and there, a Persian wheel worked by 
oxen, irrigates the land. Nearly opposite the town, is 
the small island of Sarshes, which is very productive 
in corn, and has been used as a lazaretto during the 
time of the plague; the river runs boldly, and alto- 
gether, the panorama is interesting and novel, and 
gives the stranger a very fair, general idea of the 
scenery of Lower Egypt. I do not wonder that the 
people choose this’ spot as a refuge from the gloomy, 
dull buildings of the town; for here they may sit 
under cover, and enjoy each other's society in quiet 
and repose. I was much delighted to behold them 
assembled in the evening, in circular groups, inhaling 
dense clouds of tobacco smoke, and listening at- 
tentively to one more venerable than the rest, who 
still kept up the old custom of reading aloud some 
favorite national legend, or work of the imagination. 
He was evidently respected by the whole party, and no 
doubt well remunerated for his trouble, as things go in 
the East. This is the only species of theatre to be 
found among the Arabs, and it was thrown open to 
the passing stranger, who might or might not leaye a 
trifle for the amusement he received. 

Coffee was passed round, and the whole assembly 
observed the strictest silence, except when occasionally 
the unusual distortion of the performer's features, the 

2 





172 . ARAB STORY TELLERS. 


vehemence of his expression, or the wit of the piece, 
called forth their admiration, Even then, however, it 
must not be supposed that they all indulged in laughiter, 
or other loud symbol of their satisfaction. By no 
means !—and it was easy to distinguish the Arab from 
the Turk, not only by his appearance, and the peculiar 
folds of his turban, but by the different manner in 
which this exhibition affected him. The Arab is more 
lively and animated ; he does not hesitate to give vent 
to his feelings by observations, and thinks it nothing 
derogatory to indulge in laughter. The Turk, on the 
contrary, sits still, squat upon his haunches, seldom 
looking up but when his exhausted pipe reminds him 
that exertion is necessary; he is mute as the grave, 
and looks on in apparent apathy ; and when others 
laugh or talk, he so far departs from his habitual gravity, 
as to turn up his eyes; and taking the pipe a moment 
from his lips, strokes his beard, and ejaculates as 
usual, ‘ Maschallah !—Taieeb !—Allah !—Ayoub!— 
Ouakbar !—Ad’gioiva !""* and so forth, taking a few 
puffs at the fragrant weed between each exclamation ! 
Rosetta, in 1806, became the mausoleum of hundreds 
of our brave countrymen who fell a sacrifice to the ill- 
judged policy which induced England to send an expe- 
dition against Egypt at the time that we were at war with 
Turkey, without properly considering how her plans were 
to be carried into effect, and judging too lightly of Mus- 
sulmaun prowess. Perhaps she was flushed with the 
success of the previous campaign against the French, 
and thought that the power of the Mamliks and 
Turks was not of a nature to hold out against her, 
were they even so disposed. She was most griev- 
ously deceived as to numbers, and miscalculated as to 
* Praise be to God !—Good! Excellent |—God t—Wonderfal!— 





GENERAL FRASER'S EXPEDITION IN 1800. 173 


the co-operation of the Mamlék Beys, A mere 
handful of men was sent out, I believe not more than 
7000, a force by no means adequate to the task 
assigned: and the command was given to General 
Fraser. 

‘The unfortunate issue of the mission is pretty well 
known. Alexandria surrendered, but the Turks being 
afterwards re-inforced by the Mamliiks, the British 
troops were shot down in the streets of Rosetta with- 
out merey: for the enemy having taken possession of 
the windows, were themselves protected from danger ; 
they could inflict the blow unperceived, and take a 
deliberate aim. Thus we lost many excellent officers ; 
and most of the brave little army were slaughtered. 
Very few returned to England without wounds. Of 
those who were made prisoners, many were murdered ; 
the rest were sent into the interior, as common 
slaves, and were treated in the most barbarous man- 
ner, numbers of them dying on the march, either on 
account of their wounds, fatigue, and heat, or for 
want of sustenance. The English have therefore 
good reason to remember Rosetta. 

‘The entrance to the Nile from’ the sea, is impeded 
by an extensive shoal-bar: which renders the naviga- 
tion there extremely dangerous. Merchandize is 
usually embarked in d'germs of moderate size, and it 
is then transferred, outside the bar, into larger craft, for 
convenience sake as well as security. I cannot sup- 
pose that there is any such thing as insurance in 
Egypt, for it would prove rather a doubtful speeu- 
lation. The Arabs are very cunning, and being 
excellent swimmers, might be tempted to upset the 
boat in order to be revenged upon their employers, when 
they dared, or with a view of giving their nimble 





174 THE PORT OF RASCHID. 


*compatriotes alliés” an opportunity of trying their 
skill at diving for the goods! There is a castle on 
either side of the entrance to the port, and on the 
eastern bank, a small village; the long narrow island 
of Sarshes, with its magazines of corn, is seen streteh- 
ing along the middle of the river, before the town of 
Rosetta; and the latter, with its picturesque minarets, 
appears to rise from the midst of beautiful gardens 
and orchards, the whole being inelosed, as it were, by 
groves of elegant palms, and bulwarks of the prickly- 
pear, bordering on the desert, which in some other 
parts, extends even to the water’s edge, The river 
empties itself into the sea about five miles below the 
town, where it is about half a mile in width. It con- 
tinues broad for a considerable distance, and the sail 
up to Rosetta is very pretty. On the right, in ascend- 
ing, is Fort St. Julien: and the eye is further relieved 
by the picturesque situation of the barracks and some 
Frank dwellings, variously inclosed and surrounded by 
plantations. The chief of these, at this period, formed 
the summer retreat of Mr. Barker the English Consul- 
general. The spot is delightfully interspersed with 
gardens, in which are cultivated not only the vine, 
the pear, and the peach, but also the cucumber, the 
potato and the almond, the fig, the olive, and the 
pomegranate. In the immediate neighbourhood, a 

good deal of clover is also grown, which is very 
refreshing to the eye, particularly of those who in 
passing from Alexandria, ha e had little else to gaze 
upon but the parched : f the Desert. This is 
the * Bersim” of the Eg s, The chateau of the 
Consul being contiguous to the fortress and the bar- 
racks, I had a favourable ‘opportunity of remarking 
the musical talents of the Arabs. Mohammed Ali 





MISERY.—THE TRI-LINGUAR STONE. 115 


has had these people instructed by French Professors, 
and they certainly do credit to their teachers; their 
performance was most excellent: indeed, if I had not 
known the fact, T could not have guessed that I was 
listening to Arabs. Their talent for music is undoubt- 
edly great: their execution is good; they play with 
taste and feeling, and they evidently take pleasure in 
it. The fortifications every where on the coast haye 
been lately extended. 

Here, asat Alexandria, the feelings are harrowed up 
by the numbers of unsightly, deformed, and disgusting 
objects which present themselves in the garb of human 
beings. The picture is truly a melancholy one; for 
it consists of squalid wretchedness, filth, and discase of 
the most loathsome kind ; and there are beggars with- 
out end: groups of neglected children swarming with 
flies and vermin, are to be seen, rolling in the dust 
and debris of deserted buildings, in the obseurer parts 
of the town; and here and there, the aged and the 
sick are observed squatting on heaps of dirt and rub- 
bish, and supporting their head upon their knees, or 
resting their emaciated forms against the tottering wall 
of their hovel, gazing, with hollow eye and haggard 
mien, in vacant apathy on all around them. 

Rosetta is famous for having yielded the celebrated 
Tri-linguar stone, at present in the British Museum, 
and which furnished, through the exertions of Dr, 
Young and M. Champollion, the chief clue to all the 
knowledge we at present possess on the subject of the 
hieroglyphics. It bears three inscriptions of the same 
import: viz. one in hieroglyphics, another in the 
ancient vernacular language of Egypt, and a third in 
the Greek language. These inscriptions record the 
services which Ptolemy the Fifth bad rendered his 





176 RESEARCHES OF Mit. BURTON. 


country, and were engraved by order of the high 
priests, when they were assembled at Memphis, for 
the purpose of investing him with the Royal preroga- 
tive. 

It is not unlikely, that other specimens of a similar 
description, recording important events, may be found 
hereafter. One has already been brought to light by 
Mr. James Burton, a gentleman to whose indefatigable 
investigations, founded on scientific acquirements, we 
are indebted for a great deal of valuable information. 
When he discovered this Tri-linguar stone, it formed 
the step of a door of one of the old Mosques at 
Cairo, He applied immediately to Mohammed Ali 
about it. The Pascha gave him permission to copy 
the inscriptions, but refused to let it be removed, upon 
the plea that it had now become part of a Mosque. 
This was only a pretext. The French had the as- 


cendancy in this as in other matters ; and shortly after, 
when Mr. Burton pointed out this interesting relic to 
Champollion, that gentleman did not hesitate to 
apply to Ibrahim Pascha, through the medium of the 
French consul, and having obtained his Highness* 
consent, without going either to Mohammed Ali, or 
to Mr. Burton, carried it off forthwith! 1 





CHAPTER VI. 


DEPARTURE FROM ROSETTA, AND ASCENT OF THE NILE 
TO POUAH. 


Tue “Cand’gias,” or boats of the Nile, are, on the ave- 
rage, from about fifteen to thirty feet long. They are 
generally provided with a raised cabin, having windows 
on either side. The helmsroan usually sits on the roof. 
‘There is, besides, in the hull or body, in front of the 
cabin, sufficient accommodation for one or two servants, 
cooking utensils, &c.—the crew occupying the fore- 


part of the Cand'gia quite away from the passengers. 
‘This species of craft is purposely built rather low at the 
bows, on account of the sand-banks, which vary as to 
situation and extent, according to the height of the 
Nile, and it is provided with one or two masts, and as 
many latteen, or three-cornered sails, besides a fore- 
sail. ‘These are, for the most part, clumsy, and dif 
ficult to move, being fixed to heavy arched beams or 
yards, and very inconvenient to reef. 

We hoisted a large British Union-Jack at the stern, 
which had been lent to us by the Consul-general, and 
the word was now given to Mohammed to depart ; but 
behold! Monsieur le Reis, etoit deja parti! Mo- 
hammed searched up and down the quay, going the 
round of the cafés, &c. for a good half-hour, in vain. 
The fellow was nowhere to be found. Our gall was 
beginning to rise, when two of the crew made their ap- 
pearance, carrying some flat cakes of Arab bread, but 

YOU. 1. N 





178 EGYPTIAN PEMALE CosTUME—THE “ KOHOL.” 


they either could not, or would not tell what had be 
come of “El Reis!” At last, “omnibus paratis pa- 
randis,”"—as we thought, the rest of the crew, about 
six in number, “ dropped in,” one by one, each bearing 
a something. 

‘The departure of a large Cand'gia generally attracts 
notice, and particularly when Europeans are on board. 
We were not surprised, therefore, at seeing a group of 
people assemble near us on the quay, led, as we sup- 
posed, by curiosity. There was no lack of females ;— 
their garments consisted of a blue veil or robe of coarse 
linen, extending in the Madonna style, from the erown, 
of the head over the back, downwards, and a chemise of 
the same material, open in front nearly to the waist, 
which in the East is nothing seandalous, thongh it would 
be a reproach to them heedlessly to expose the counte- 
nance. With ene hand, some held an infant at the 
breast, or supported a bundle, whilst others were lead= 
ing a little naked child, or carrying water: the veil being, 
for the most part, directed obliquely over the face, and 
held in that position, either by the teeth, or by the other 
hand. There were many among them, who, instead of 
this loose flowing veil, wore the hideous black mask, 
which has been already alluded to. It is usually sus- 
pended from the forehead over the nose, by a tape or 
namented with beads or shells, and from above which, 
appear a pair of large, bright, black eyes, rendered still 
more penetrating by the * pencilled Kobol.”* Their 

* This fy fn allusion to the Orlental pmotice of dyeing the edges of the eye~ 
‘ids of w dark colour, to preserve the sight, ws they pretend, but really to render 
tho eyes more beautiful. ‘The preparation employed consiate of wnlphuret of 
Toad, or antimony, minutely powdered and mixed with olf. It fe then intro- 
duced by moans of a fine hair pencil, and certainly does give the eyes ® peoulinr, 
and sometimes, a fascinating appearance, particularly when darting forth from. 


the fine snow white linen with which the better orders of Turkish women envelop 
thelr heads. 





TATTOOING—ORNAMENTS—THE “HENNEH.” 179 


arms were tattooed of a blue colour, 30 was also the chin, 
and with some, the cheek and forehead. Moreover, the 
nails of the fingers and toes were carefully dyed of a 
reddish brown, or deep pinkish yellow, by means of the 
* Henneh,” a practice which is not only very common, 
but much admired by both sexes.* They wore a variety 
of ornaments, particularly brass ear-rings, and rings on 
the fingers, ankles, and toes; beads of glass about the 
neck ; and what particularly struck my notice,—armlets 
or bracelets made exactly as rings, some of metal, but 
generally of black horn, and so constructed, that they 
toust have been put on when young, and not taken off 
since ; and now to remove them without cutting therm, 
would be impossible. ‘Those that were made of horn 
were about an inch broad; and some had two or three 
on the same arm: they struck me as being very cumber- 
some, but I believe this practice is of great antiquity, 
and J have never heard that any other idea is associ- 
ated with it than that of ornament. The ancient 
Egyptians are represented in the paintings on the walls 
of the temples and tombs of Middle and Upper Egypt, 
wearing similar ornaments ; and the objects themselves 
have even been found among the ruins; some such 
are in my possession. Besides these women, there 
were young girls standing about, ten and twelve years 
of age, who hesitated not to let themselves be seen, and 
certainly finer forms never were exhibited. ‘They were 
dressed in all respects like their elders, but without the 
veil-f 
Men of various denominations passed and repassed, 
and a few seemed to loiter on the spot. We began to 
‘* The powdered leares are employes for this purpose: they give out a alekly 
faint odour, are of an olive-green colour, and have the property of tingiag sub « 
stances of a pinkish yellow, or brown, by simple contact. 
1 See Vol. If. Chap. V1. 
n2 





180 A curious sckENE—THE CATASTROPHE ! 


be very angry, when the Reis made his appearance, 
and was immediately surrounded by the aforesaid group, 
vehemently assailing him with their tongues. I was at 
a loss to understand the meaning of all this, especially 
when I observed a woman of somewhat better appear- 
ance than the rest, jump into the boat, and take her 
seat. On enquiry, Mohammed informed me that she 
was the Captain's wife, and was to be of our party. 
* Oh, yery well,” said Bradford, ‘let her come, pro- 
vided she does not take the helm!” 

Mohammed was proceeding to explain further, when 
the subject of his oration was fully developed by the 
Captain coming on board, which seemed to be the sig- 
nal for action. A  tusselling was commenced by the 
party on shore, and I expected to see two or three of 
them knocked into the river. They did not even pay 
any deference to the ladies, who valiantly put forth 
their strength in their own defence, One pushed the 
other away, and was herself displaced; two or three, 
who bad been throughout the foremost of the throng, 
and the most communicative, to their great mortifica~ 
tion, now found themselves * hors de combat,” and 
obliged to retire to the rear, in consequence of the sud- 
den and unforeseen overthrow of all their goods and 
chattels, which, previous to the onset, had been care- 
fully disposed of, but which were now completely and 
most effectually unshipped. Lemons were rolling here, 
—onions there—dates in another place, and the ci-de- 
vant bearers of them narrowly escaped being unshipped 
too; for at this crisis, a general rush was made, and 
one or two jumped into the boat ;—a basket of eggs 
being upset in the scuffle, and a few broken, rendered 
the uproar still greater; one poor woman bewailing 
ihe loss of her property, not in the most gentle 





A SNUG WATER-PARTY—CAPITANI OF THE NILE. 181 


manner, although she knew not on whom to fix, as 
the source of her calamity. She was jeered, and 
rated by some, and others loudly vociferated in her fa- 
your, Upon the whole, it was certainly a most ridicu- 
lous scene; and we were all of us rude enough to 
laugh, although it was partly at the expense of the 
ladies, whose tongues, all this while, were not idle: 
au contraire, they played their part a merveille ; and it 
was not until there was something like a cessation of 
hostilities, in consequence of the neglected “Pair ones” 
feeling un peu d'embarras, at the threatened loss of 
their stock in trade, (which they beset themselves au 
moment, most assiduously to collect, and to rescue from 
the pilfering hands, des gargons yoleurs voisins), that 
there was a pause, or that even the men in the boat, 
who had been any thing but indifferent spectators, 
were able to make themselves heard. So great was 
the commotion, that those who first jumped into 
the Cand’gia lay sprawling beneath the feet of the 
Reis, and were unable to extricate themselves, being 
pressed upon by two athletic females with baskets, who 
followed close upon them. We began to suspect that 
our noble captain was scheming ; so I thought it ne- 
cessary to enquire if these were also the Captain's 
wives ; if so, how many more we might expect ; and I 
particularly wished to be informed what part their ruder 
companions played in his harem! Mohammed smiled, 
and said, that when he was returning to us last, he 
found this group assembled on the quay, and that, from 
the import of the words which some let fall, he gathered, 
especially from the women (and Mohammed was an ex- 
cellent judge of female eloquence), that they were all 
going to Fouah, in, forsooth,—* the Cand’gia Frangi,” 
—and that he was proceeding to announce as much, 





182 THE “ROYAL JACK”—STRIKING A BARGAIN. | 


when the “rumpus” began! By this time, the other 
women, assisted by the girls who stood gazing by, had 
gathered all their traps together, save and except a few 
stray onions, that went floating down the stream, and 
some lemons, which had also rolled over the parapet ; 
and they were very deliberately approximating the 
Royal Jack, proposing for once, at all events, in their 
lives, to put themselves under British protection; they 
even succeeded in getting on board. But it was now 
time for us to interfere. One of the sailors had con- 
trived to mount the main-yard unobserved, and unfurl 
the sail attached to it: the rest were preparing to loose 
from the moorings, and the Reis himself held the 
hawser in his hand. Perceiving this,“ What! hol” 
cried I,— Avast there ! Master Reis! Tale henne!'"* 
The man looked round, as taken by surprise, and in- 
stantly obeyed the summons. 

As we expected, so it turned out; and his long ab- 
sence was accounted for, Under the plea of getting 
provisions, he had gone away to the bazaar, just as he 
was certain that we meant to depart; but his real object 
was to proclaim in the public places, that a large 
Cand'gia was just setting off for Cairo, without cargo, 
and that he would be glad to take any passengers that 
would go. Such an opportunity was not to be lost. 
Numbers flocked down to the landing-place, no doubt 
accustomed to such sudden apprisals; and when they 
saw the colours flying, and the preparations making for 
our departure, they would fain have embarked without 
delay; but as soon as the Reis made his appearance, 
they were to be restrained no longer. As he had bar- 
gained with more than he could take, a regular scufile 
began; might became right, and then it was that the 


* Come here. 





LIVE STOCK—REJECTED ADDRESSES. 183 


ludicrous catastrophe of the onions, and the eggs, and 
the lemons, took place. ‘This is a very common trick 
with the Signori Capitani in this part of the world, 
and they require to be well watched, or they will take 
every kind of advantage. They are honest; that is, 
they will not rob; but they strike a hard bargain, and 
afterwards make as much as they can, availing them- 
selves of the least indulgence, and making the most 
of it. They are a well-disposed people enough in their 
way, but they must be guided by a tight rein, or, like 
the rest of their tribe, they will get the bit between 
their teeth, and run away with you outright. 

In the present instance, the man acknowledged his 
fault : he knew that we had paid him his price for the 
Cand’gia, and that it was great impertinence to pre- 
sume to put any body else on board, without leave. 
We had live stock enough already; for what with 
galline, marinari, passeggieri, pulice, scorpioni, mosche, 
e diversi altri animali, piccoli e grandi, we were not 
likely to be dull for want of company; and we had 
intruders enough already, without adding to the 
number, 

The Reis begged hard that we would allow them 
to remain,—that they were “not going far, &c.,” but 
we were deaf to his entreaties; for just at that mo- 
ment, Bradford’s quick eye happened to alight upon 
one of the newly imported party, (now snugly ar- 
ranged, all right, ready for a cruize), and unforta- 
nately for the whole, saw him busily engaged (thinking 
it no sin), scrutinizing with microscopic discernment, 
the critical condition of his nether garment, which was 
“sore beset,” and not of the most exquisite nature in 
itself. But when once roused to a sense of the risk 
we ineurred, the longer these people were suffered to 





184 CHAGRIN—THE TABLES TURNED. 


remain on board, be broke forth with all the ve- 
hemence of which he was master. oS called ed 
attention to the disgusting spectacle, turning | 
Mohammed, he exclaimed, “ Via! Via! mandate via, 
questi genti barbari, sporci! subite, Mohammed !— 
Sentite? presto! Via! Via!"—«Si, Signor, 

for the Reis still continued 

Mohammed on the subject of their own affairs 5 
(natheless this had been a preconcerted arrangement 
between them), but he found himself compelled to 
submit ; and so withdrew to announce the sad intelli- 
gence. 

‘The noise which ensued upon this may easily be 
imagined: they began slowly to depart; and had it 
not been for the presence of the crew, it is not im- 
probable that master Reis would have been fa- 
youred with a cold bath for his pains. Mohammed 
explained to them that we had never been consulted ; 
so they were satisfied as far as we were concerned. 
But what made the business worse, was, that as they 
went ashore, one by one, those who had been pre- 
vented coming on board, now made sport of them; 
but it had the effect of diverting their attention from 
the Reis, who, looking very foolish, began to put 
matters in order. We gave him permission to let the 
three women who were going to Fouah, (which was 
only a short distance), remain ; with an understanding, 
however, that he should, on no account, attempt to put 
any body else on board when he Janded them. Mo- 
hammed also conveyed our gallant message to the 
ladies, who, not a little pleased at this mark of our 
favor, cast a smiling, grateful look towards the 
“ Howadd’giah Frangi.” 

‘The delay which this affair had occasioned, was the 





A PRESH ACQUAINTANCE. 185 


means of introducing us to a Frank, who now made 
his appearance on the quay. He was an elderly per- 
son, by birth a German, and introduced himself to our 
notice through the medium of Mohammed; having 
heard among others, that some Franks were going to 
Cairo, and that if he liked, he might accompany them. 
He arrived just in the midst of all the bustle; and 
during the fracas, could not get near enough to be 
heard ; but as soon as silence was restored, we learned 
that he was a traveller like ourselves, but unacquainted 
with the language, and alone; and that he had no means 
of continuing his journey pleasantly, unless he hired a 
Cand'gia to himself. We of course offered him a 
place with us; and the voyage was rendered more 
agreeable by his presence. We found him a yery 
amiable, well-informed, old gentleman; and as J had 
passed a year and a half in Germany, and was ac- 
quainted with the habits, views, and language of his 
countrymen, T was enabled to pay him some attention; 
and he “blessed his stars” that he had met with us. We 
soon felt interested in him; for he was one of those 
venerable persons that we sometimes meet with, who, 
without any definite object, are led to travel through 
the world, when they may expect soon to be called 
out of it, 

‘The old man was quite ready to embark ; and we 
fairly took him under our protection ; so Mohammed 
was sent to help him bring down his baggage. On 
their return we unmoored, and in two minutes, reached 
the middle of the stream, 

It would never have done to have yielded to the 
Reis in this matter; for the fraternity are, on all 
such occasions, so encroaching, that the only way to 
keep them within bounds is, to be peremptory ; but if 


{ 





186 SCENERY OF LOWER EGYPT. 


at the outset, they are allowed to gain their point, they 
may give the traveller a great deal of trouble. Be- 
sides, we should have been delayed perhaps at every 
village, and. must have made as many stoppages in the 
course of the trip, as a Blackwall omnibus! We 
were therefore obliged to steel our hearts against all 
but the ladies, who seemed to be very decent, be- 
coming people in their way, and conducted themselves 
well. 

We soon got clear of the town, and ascended 
against the stream, with our two large latteen sails, at 
the rate of about six miles an hour, under a light 
north-westerly breeze, The general appearance of 
the river is somewhat different ftom either the Rhine 
or the Danube, though I know nothing with which so 
well to compare it, (at least, this part of it), as with 
the scenery in some parts of Flanders; yet away from 
the great cities on the banks of the Meuse, and other 
large rivers. Just above the town, to the southward, 
rises a sandy mound bordering on the Desert, and it 
was rather curious to observe the tombs and mosques 
mixed up with the date and orange plantations, syea- 
mores, and rice-grounds, and the long flowing robes of 
the women, who were engaged in the pious office of 
strewing herbs over the graves of their husbands and 
relatives. ‘The people of Rosetta are generally well 
disposed, and we cannot help regretting at parting 
from them, that so little is done really to better their 
condition. 

Rosetta was once included in the Delta, and con- 
sidered a portion of the Egyptian Paradise; but now 
it is neglected, and left, like every thing else in the 
country, to take its chanes 
present much the same kind “of scenery; for the 





CRITICAL SITUATION—MUD-VILLAGES. 187 


country is so flat, that there is scarcely an object on 
which to fix the eye, except here and there, the cupola 
of a *Kubbe,” (the tomb of some saint,) with perhaps 
one or two palm-trees overshadowing it, and affording 
an indifferent shelter to the pious, who come there to 
pray. The bed of the Nile, being somewhat above the 
level of the land on either side, enables one to see 
about a league, that is, one mile only beyond the com- 
mon point of sight. Almost the only appearance 
which there is of cultivation, is on the right bank of the 
river, and the view of this is often obstructed by the 
lofty bulrushes and reeds, which abound for a consider- 
able distance ;—a few isolated palms are now and then 
to be seen, or a long line of them flanking a wretched 
mud-village, and interspersed with the dwellings, which 
are either square, and flat-roofed, or else of the form 
of bee-hives: and most of them are without windows, 
They are all built on an artificial elevation: neverthe- 
less the inhabitants are often obliged to desert them 
during the period of high Nile,—returning to them as 
soon as the waters have abated: that is, if they have 
not been washed away. 

About two miles from Rosetta, at an angle formed 
by the course of the river, a very neat, picturesque 
building presents itself—the Mosque of “ Abou 
Mandour.” It hasa dome or cupola, and a minaret 5 
and both from its situation, and from its intrinsic 
merit, it is really pretty. A conyenient coffee-house 
has been built near it for the accommodation of visitors. 
This isa place of fashionable resort for all parties, but 
especially for the Franks resident at Rosetta; they 
make excursions hither in boats, and here they sit and 
enjoy themselves in the summer evenings, smoking 
their pipes, and drinking sherbet, whilst reclining at 





188 siTE or “HoLDITINUM"—FROGS—BUPFALOES. 


their ease, with the whole beauty of the Nile before 
them, The spot commands a most extensive view 
both up and down the stream. 

The town of Rosetta is also conspicuous by its 
tapering minarets, and the masts of the collective 
d’germs. Denon supposes that the elbow of land on 
which the mosque of * Abou Mandour” is situated, 
marks the site of the ancient “ Bolbitinum ;” I am not 
aware that any particular remains have ever been found 
that could lead to the idea; but the situation would be 
most eligible for a city, and it is not unlikely to have 
been the case. In this district, sheltered by the rushes, 
are immense numbers of frogs of a most astonishing 
size; and they make such a loud croaking towards 
evening, that they may be heard at a very considerable 
distance. Near the villages too, are to be seen, cooling 
themselves in the water, groups of buffaloes; they 
stand or lic down, immersed in the river ; and no part 
of them is to be seen but the head, or tip of the nose: 
and in this way, they obtain some protection from the 
flies, which, at other times, persecute this harmless 
animal terribly. I have seen them settle upon their 
eyes and nostrils in such numbers, that, almost mad 
with irritation, they have been compelled thus to 
plunge into the water, as the only means of escape ; 
and there they lie for hours together ;—swarms of 
these insects even then, darkening the atmosphere in 
the immediate neighbourhood of their heads, which 
they are obliged to dip under at intervals, in order to 
be rid of their implacable enemy, which is sure to re- 
turn with the morning sun. 

The scenery varies little the whole way between 
Rosetta and Cairo: the Delta side being always more 
green and pleasing than that of Libya. The Indian 





THE DELTA AND CROPS—IRRIGATION. 189 


corn, the D’hourra (a farinaceous grain), Rice, and To- 
bacco, are chiefly cultivated ; and the land is irrigated 
by means of the Persian wheel, the construction of 
which is generally understood. However, it is a 
simple wheel, turned by oxen ; and, as it revolves, the 
earthen jars which are attached to it, are filled with 
water, and again emptied into a trough upon the banks, 
and so conveyed inland—and the gardens are sup- 
plied. These wheels are kept constantly going, and 
the prosperity and happiness of Egypt depend mainly 
upon them;—they are tended by thefellahs, or peasantry, 
and they are in use throughout the whole country. 

A short distance to the north of Fouah, on the 
Libyan side, is the entrance of what has been de- 
scribed as an old canal; but itis, I believe, more pro- 
perly speaking, the entrance of the Canopic branch of 
the Nile. On its banks, is situated the town of 
Deirft, with its huts of sun-dried bricks and d’hourra 
straw. During the period at which this branch existed, 
and when the famous cities of Canopus, Heraclium, 
and the rest were in their glory, no doubt the town of 
Fouah, if such a town there were, was in its glory too. 
It was a place of some moment, even in the sixteenth 
century; but its trade was subsequently transferred to 
Rosetta. The tables are again turned, and Fouah, 
which is about twenty-five miles above the latter, is 
evidently once more rising in importance. It has be- 
come populous, and owes its present flourishing condi- 
tion (if I may so speak) to its connection with the 
eanal of Mahmoudieh, and the consequent falling-off 
of Rosetta. When we shortened sail, and came along- 
side the quay, for the purpose chiefly of putting our 
female companions ashore, we were immediately sur+ 
rounded by beggars ; anda variety of individuals soli- 





190 POUAN; ITS QUAY, AND MARKET. 


cited our Drogueman (who passed fora great man, 
being dressed 4 la Janisaire), that he would intercede 
with us in their behalf, for they too wished to mount 
the Nile, and we began to see that we had acted pro- 
perly, by refusing to let the Reis bring the tribe of 
people with him as he had arranged ; for he would now 
have expected the same indulgence, and we should 
have had plenty of company all the way. The fel- 
labs brought us a quantity of things for sale, and al- 
most thrust them into the boat, which they would as- 
suredly not have done, had we been Turks : they would 
rather have carried them a mile the other way; for the 
Turks either purchase goods at their own price, which 
is much below their value, or they do not pay at all, 
and perhaps give the venders of them a beating gratis! 
‘The quay was quite in a bustle, and afforded a speci- 
men of a good market. We saw there a variely of 
vegetables and fruits, (particularly the “ pastek,” or 
water-melon), that were about to be forwarded to Alex- 
andria by the canal. The melons looked so tempting, 
that we purchased some. This is a most delicious 
fruit, especially in a hot country ; and in the desert, it 
is, without exception, the greatest luxury I know of. It 
is very large, and of a mottled, greenish yellow colour 
externally; when cut into, it discharges a quantity 
of aqueous fluid of the most exquisite flavour, cool and 
refreshing, neither sweet nor insipid : the interior, which 
is of a fungous or spongy appearance, is soft and gra- 
nular, and of a pinkish tint; it is very fragrant, and 
melts inthe mouth. An Arab thinks nothing of eating 
a water-melon at one sitting ; but then it should be re- 
collected, that this, with a piece of bread, suffices for 
ameal. If we would be content to do likewise, we 
also might not find it too much; but if we eat a quan- 





cucuMpEns—‘BAcKscHEesn!”—a sketcn, 191 


tity of so solid a fruit, after a sumptuous dinner of fish, 
flesh, and fowl, we cannot be surprised if we find the 
inconvenience of it. In like manner, I haye repeatedly 
seen an Arab cating a cucumber, as boys would eat an 
apple, without paring it; and the cucumbers in Egypt, 
grow fo an immense size. ‘The people's curiosity was 
very much excited, and they crowded round us in great 
numbers, calling out continually “ Backscheesh ! Back- 
scheesh! ap Howadd’giah! Backscheesh !* This was 
particularly the case with the children, who asked for 
money often from roguishness. Many of them were 
quite naked, and running about or rolling in the dirt, 
perfectly unrestrained. The tout ensemble, as viewed 
from the water, presented a curious scene, and abundant 
matter for the study of a Hogarth or a Wilkie. In the 
fore-ground, in front of the picturesque Cand’gias, 
with their bent and taper yards, was a strange admix- 
ture of objects, and the grouping was perhaps still more 
strange: Arab boatmen and beggars; naked children, 
and women dressed in their long, loose, blue chemises 
and veil, bare-foot, and closely talking with each other, 
and vending cheese, and bread, and eggs, or passing on 
their way together, holding aslant the linen robe which 
partly hides their features from the gaze of man : mer- 
chandise in bales, or baskets—fruit—vegetables, and 
fowls: a wandering dog, perhaps, groping among the 
mubbish, half daring to approach, and half afraid, look- 
ing wistfully at the busy, chattering crew preparing their 
supper, watching impatiently the setting sun, and cast- 
ing an anxious eye towards the neighbouring minaret, 
ready to fall to immediately on the well-known sound 
of the Muezzin’s voice. The shaggy, bare-ribbed, 


* Backschoosh means n present, nnd the term Howndd’giah fy derived, 1 
‘déliove, from the Persian, and signifies Sir, or Master, ax applioable to u eupe- 
ior, and we hear It constantly In Rgypt- 





192 FAST oF THE “ RHAMAD'HAN.” 


mangy brute, sniffing the savoury odour, and ekulking at 
times too near, reaps many an unkind blow, and angry 
kick, “because the sun moves on so tardily ;” or, he is 
compelled to beat a sudden and a quick retreat, to avoid 
the coming missile, and seems, by his pitiful look, well 
to understand that now is the time of the great feast, 
or rather fast, of * Rhamad'han,”* and that he too, al- 
though an unclean infidel, must wait the sun’s decline 
and setting, ere a stray bone may give him a chance of 
picking even his scanty meal. 

Further off, may be seen a long line of camels pro- 
ceeding with their burdens instinctively along, one 
after the other, with slow and measured step; and 
nearer at hand, a truly interesting group of girls, and 
young women fetching water in long, cylindrical earthen 
jars, which they carry on their shoulders, or on the 
head ; and it is curious to observe with what adroitness 
they do it, It never happened to me to see one of 
them meet with an accident: they move on gracefully 
and slowly, talking carelessly the whole time, and 
seldom even seem to trip, although the ground is so ir- 
regular and rough; for as the toes are unrestrained, 
they are free to perform the duties of their office, and 
we may presume, are seldom visited by any of those 
disagreeable, hard - hearted, troublesome little in- 
truders, called corns, which are often the unwelcome 
monitors of persons, who, like the Chinese, are the 
enthusiastic admirers of a pretty foot. Confinement, 
however, and pressure, it would seem, are not always 
sufficient or necessary to prevent exuberance of growth; 

* The Fast of the Rhutnnd’han lasts a month, and duriug its continuxnes It Ie 
unlawful for Mussulmauns to cut after eun-rise, or before sunaset. ‘They ooght 
to pray frequently, but they make up for their fasting 5 for no sooner does the 


suo dip below the horizon, than that moment they begin, and often royel until 
after midnight, 





NATURE AND ART—THE LADIRS OF ENGLAND. 193 


but where, as in the present instance, there is no ex- 
crescence or untoward alteration of structure, the 
pruning knife is not required, The foot of these 
swarthy damsels takes a firm and natural hold 
upon the ground: they walk perfectly upright, and 
what may surprise some to hear, their gait is as digni- 
fied, and their form as elegant and attractive, as they 
possibly could be, under all the advantages of the 
“Ecole des Graces,” at Paris. This leads me to epeak 
of the Oriental females generally, Happily for them, 
they are ignorant of the thraldom of (what we under- 
stand by) “fashionable” life; for restraint would ill 
suit with the climate in which they live. Content with 
the qualifications which nature has given them, they 
are little disposed to sacrifice their comfort and enjoy~ 
ment, for the substitution of practices which have 
nothing but novelty to recommend them, which are at 
variance with their feelings, and (it may be) the result 
of a perverted taste. They are too much lovers of 
their ease, to stifle natural inclinations, and to have re- 
course to artificial contrivances which, however ac- 
ceptable they may be rendered by habit, are often 
painful to endure, cramp and deform the body, and 
* generate diseases which are altogether unknown among 
savage nations; and which are only to be met with in 
“ civilized" Europe! 

Tam at all times ready to acknowledge the superior 
excellence of my fair countrywomen, whose personal 
attractions have called forth the admiration of every 
foreigner. But if they are renowned for their beauty, 
they are still more celebrated for their virtues; and it 
is my sincere regard for their happiness which induces 
me to hint at the evils which they sometimes bring 
upon themselves and their offspring, by adopting cus- 

VOL. 1. ° 





194 THE SUFFERING SEX—FEMMES SAGES. 


toms which are likely to compromise their health. All 
extremes, whether in regard to dress or habits, are had. 
Women have justly been denominated the “suffering 
sex ;" but the ills which they were designed by Proyi- 
dence to bear, ore frequently increased by the adoption 
of pernicious customs; and it is melancholy to advert 
to the relative nature of female complaints, and the 
causes of death, among Europeans, and in the coun- 
tries of the East. In regard to the former, the evil is 
often the result of their own seeking ; whereas, in un~ 
civilized lands, the designs of Nature being for the 
most part uninterrupted, all her ends are accomplished 
with comparatively little difficulty, and on the occasions 
to which I more particularly allude, the interposition of 
medical aid is seldom requisite; the harems, not only 
in Egypt, but in Turkey, Syria, Persia, and other parts 
of the East, are invariably attended by females. As 
a medical man, I might enlarge upon this subject, but 
I shall conclude by observing, that it is a great mistake 
to suppose that climate has anything to do in the 
matter. It is my decided opinion that the advantages 
enjoyed by the females of all uncivilized nations over 
those of Europe, are to be referred to this;—that the 
constitution is seldom enervated by unnatural restrie- 
tions, or debilitating habits ; neither is the capacity of 
the body liable to be cramped or diminished by artificial 
refinements. It is early education which does the 
mischief, and the murderous contrivances of Parisian 
wisdom, together with late anxiety, and excite- 
ment, indolence, and want of air and exercise. 

It is pretty generally known, that the inhabitants of 
the Caribbee Islands completely flatten the forehead of 
their children at birth, by means of a metallic plate 
and a bandage, which are not removed until that shape 





THE FORCE OF HABIT—PREJUDICE AND FASHION. 195 


is obtained which is most admired.* Now if these 
ignorant people are to be condemned as savages ber 
cause they are dissatisfied with the form which Natare 
has given them, and (like the horse in Lessing’s fable) 
are simple enough to imagine that they can improve 
it,—what must be thought of those Europeans who, 
with a view of rendering the shape of their children 
more congenial with their taste, diminish the natural 
growth, and contract the frame, compressing the body 
to such an extent, that at times they ean scarcely 
breathe ?—thus not only injuring their health, but so 
distorting the figure, that after death, the effects of 
art may even be detected in the skeleton! : 
We should be considered Goths not to admire the 
works of the celebrated artizans of Greece; because 
they are so exquisite in form, and so true to Nature! 
Just so it is in regard to the elegant, flowing robes of 
Oricntal nations, which make such pretty pictures, and 
afford a lively contrast with the tight, formal costumes 
of the North, But habit reconciles us to any thing: 
whatever the eye is unaccustomed to, appears strange ; 
and Fashion and Prejudice teach us to admire even 
that which is ridiculous, and often monstrous ; for we 
regard it with a partial eye. Thus we laugh at the 
Chinese ladies and call them cripples, because they 
are averse to locomotion; we discover no charms in 
club feet, pencilled eye-brows, flat noses, and black 
teeth: they, on the other hand, wonder at our want of 
taste ; they think our European beauties ‘ ugly,” be- 
cause their eyes are soft and sparkling, and their com- 
* For further information on this aubject, consult  Hunboldt's Peryonal 
‘Wareative," vol. il. ps 280; “Edward Wstory of the West Indies.” vol. t. 
PAUL; “Sournal de Physique," August 1791, p. 192, Tubles 1,2, In which 


figures of the bandages are given; “ Labat, Voyage aux Isles de I" Amerique,” 
tit p72 
02 





196 EUROPEAN AND EASTERN PRACTICES. 


plexions fair and fresh; they call them vulgar for pre- 
suming to walk, and charge them with everything that 
is bad, because they expose their features to view, and 
wear no veil in the house. We turn in disgust from 
the contemplation of those who cut and carve their 
faces, distort their ears and lips, and pierce them with 
a sword, or wear huge rings in the nostrils: but these 
things only offend the eye, and do comparatively litle 
harm ; they are trifles, and all that we can say about 
them is, that they who do such things, possess a curious 
taste; but some of our modern European practices 
are ten times more severely felt, and more terrible in 
their consequences than any of these. 

It is the duty of a traveller to describe with be- 
coming frankness, the manners and customs of the 
Various countries through which he may have occasion 
to pass, and to draw from them such deductions and 
comparisons as may tend to the improvement of his 
readers. Whenever I venture an opinion, I desire to 
act impartially, and to adhere to truth. However 
sensible I may be, therefore, of the merits of my own 
countrywomen, I have not refrained from censurin, 
such of their habits as I consider inimical to their wll 
being. In sounding the praise of those who, it must 
be acknowledged, appear in all the perfection of form 
which, we are led to suppose, distinguished our first 
parents and their immediate descendants, I am bound 
to express my sorrow that any of those in Europe, for 
whom Nature has done quite as much, should compro- 
mise their happiness and that of mankind, by the 
adoption of practices which tend not a little to de- 
generate the human race.* 


* Vide Chap. VII., also Vol. 11. Chap. VI. See some admirable remarks om 
Physical Haneation, with illustrations by Professor Soommering, in the Penny 
Mngaaine for 18838, No. 58, and the Penny Cyclopardia: Cap, " Corset.” 





CHAPTER VIL 


FROM FOUAH TO BAKKARAH—THE PASCHA'S AVAKICE 
—SCRIPTURE ILLUSTRATIONS—CLIMATE, SICKNESS 
AND HEALTH — DIETETICS —EGYPTIAN DANCING- 
GIRLS—POLYGAMY—ANCIENT REMAINS—CANALS OF 
LOWER EGYPT—THE NATRON LAKES, ETC, 


As the wind was in our favor, we determined to pro- 
ceed the same evening to Rahmanieh, a town on the 
opposite bank of the river, chiefly important as a 
military station, and from its locality, being close to 
the new canal of Mahmoudich. But we were de 
tained a little, in consequence of the importunities of 
the unfortunate. In Mohammedan countries, the ap- 
proach of a physician is always regarded as an auspi- 
cious event. His arrival is anticipated, and one case 
successfully treated, is sure to bring him plenty of 
patients, wherever he goes. Where there is so much 
misery, it is difficult to resist the appeals which are 
made to our philanthropy; and on this, as on many 
other occasions, we felt the inconyenience or adyan- 
tage arising from a mame. The fame of “ E] H’akkim” 
had extended to the hovels of the town; and the sick, 
the halt, the deaf, and the blind, were led down or 
carried, without discrimination, to the spot where our 
Cand’gia was moored. I soon found that it would 
be impossible to listen to the sorrows of the multitude 
of wretched beings which crowded around me, as T 
dispensed such aid as was in my power, to those who 





198 HEALING THE SICK—THE MUBZZIN. 


appeared to need it most. Some came behind and 
touched me with superstitious veneration, or seizing 
the hem of my garment with eagerness, kissed it im- 
ploringly, whilst others offered up a prayer to Allah in 
my bebalf: and it was not until the first words of the 
Muezzin from the minaret announced the decline of 
day, that I was reminded we had still somewhat to 
perform.* We found the Arab custom of abstaining 
from food during the great heat, always most con- 
genial with our feelings; and now that it was Rha- 
mad'han we even dined an hour later than usual ; thus 
seeming to conform to the views and habits of the 
people with whom we were. The sound of the Muez- 
zin’s voice therefore was to me the grateful “note of 
preparation,” as well as to the pious Mussulmaun, who 
proceeded, as the sun descended in his course, to dip 
his hands and feet into the river; and having per- 
formed his ablutions, directed his face towards Mecca, 
and engaged in prayer. I, among the rest, was glad to 
ayail myself of an excuse to withdraw from the busy 
crowd ; for I really began to feel exhausted, and I 
saw plainly that I should have no lack of patients as 
long as I was willing to lend an ear to their com- 
plaints. An ordinary excuse might have availed me 
little. I called their attention therefore to the Muez- 


* ‘The ery of the Muezzin is monotonous but solemn: particularly during the 
stillness of night, when it adds very m the 
Oriental climate never fills to excite 

‘once, by Sir Walter Scott, who wi 

toit in“ The Talisman," vol. iv, p. 188, It ino general appeal to the 


providence of God. For the most purt, the same words are used : and Uttle 
reaches the ear, bat “ Ala! Allah! il Aah!" and now and then a abort pais 
sage from the Khoran. Sir Walter gives the wordy in English very correctly. 
“To prayer==to prayer! God is the one God! ‘To priyer—to prayer! Mo= 
Narmmed is the prophet of God! ‘To prayer—to prayer! ‘Time is flying from 
you! To prayer—to prayer! Judgment is drawing nigh to you! Prayer le 
better than slecp! Messed be God” 





ARAD REPAST—IMMUNITY TO BOATMEN. 199 


zin’s prayers, and pointed to the horizon in the west, 
which was still burning from the sun’s effulgent rays. 
I bade them implore the assistance of the Almighty, 
and commend themselves to His care, and that *Insch- 
‘allah !"* they would get well; albeit, I knew that 
many of them were incurable. But it was the only 
way to get rid of them, and I was very glad to make 
my eseape. We also performed our ablutions before 
meat, but with very different motives from those which 
influenced the Arabs; and although the doctrines of 
our religion prescribe less of outward form, I will not 
say that we were ever unmindful of the blessings be- 
stowed upon us, or that we partook of them with less 
grateful hearts. At one end of the Cand’gia might be 
seen the Arab boatmen squatting in a circle with the 
Reis, before an immense platter of boiled rice and 
butter, a dish of stewed onions, a melon, and some 
bread, and perhaps a little meat to mix with the pilaf, 
it being now the time of Rhamad’han, All eat out of 
the same dish, and use their fingers. Their meal they 
soon dispatch, and rising up as they finish, take the 
large wooden bowl with which they ladle the water out 
of the boat, like our English sailors, dip it into the 
river and drink a pretty copious draught of the re- 
freshing stream, concluding the ceremony with a 
second washing, (very necessary for the Reis, and all 
who wear a beard,) and another prayer. After this, 
they seat themselves about the rigging, or on shore, in 
groups, to enjoy the grateful pipe, and a little repose 
after the fatigues of the day. ‘They are well able to 
appreciate the kindness of the Franks, and being, for 
the time, attached to an European Cand’gia, they are 
protected from many annoyances which they would 


* God willing # 





200 BREAD OF THE DELTA—PHARAOH'S DREAM. 


otherwise be liable to. The boatmen of the Nile are 
not generally taken for soldiers or sailors. Mo 
hammed Ali is aware that it is more to his interest to 
let them follow their avocation uninterruptedly, with 
this exception only, that the soldiers are allowed to 
seize on almost any private Cand’gia under the pretext 
of its being wanted for the Pascha’s service. None 
but Europeans can ever make sure that the journey 
which they undertake will be freely accomplished, on 
this account ; and hence arises the necessity of hoist- 
ing the colours of England or France, which areas well 
known in Lower Egypt, as those of the Pascha himself. 

We obtained here sone most excellent Arab bread: 
it was made into round, flat cakes, very white and sweet, 
light, and wholesome : better I never wish to partake 
of, The Delta has always been famous for its wheat ; 
but we are led to believe that the flour of the ancients 
was coarser, and that their bread resembled biscuit. 
Wheat seems to be peculiarly indigenous to Egypt; 
the country not only produces an abundant crop, 
both of the European and Indian wheat, but also 
the wheat which is alluded to in the Scriptures, as 
having “seven cars upon one stalk.”* It must not be 
supposed that this circumstance was an exaggeration, be- 
cause it was beheld by the king in a dream: in times 
of abundance, this plan' tually bring forth, in 
the present day, seven and a mast beautiful 
plant it is. Ihave seen it, f happened to be in 
Egypt during one most prolific season: and yet that 
very year, the people endured the most incredible 
miseries. The avarice of the Pascha seemed to in- 
crease with the harvest. He seized the grain where- 
ever he could find a pretext for so doing : he gathered 


* Genesis, all. 5. 





A DEARTH IN TIME OF PLENTY. 201 


it into his barns, and permitted none of his suffering, 
famished vassals, to enjoy the blessings which the mu- 
nificence of Providence had bestowed upon them. He 
was even wicked enough to set forth that there was a 
famine in the land, and made this the excuse for pro- 
hibiting the exportation of grain by others; neverthe- 
less, when it suited his purpose, he exported it himself. 
It is perfectly well known that there was no famine, 
but of his own creating. Acting however on this plea, 
he not only withheld the good grain, and sold musty 
flour mixed with horse-beans to the people, at an 
enormous price ; but wishing at the same time not to 
offend the Franks, at the suggestion of his worthy 
counsellor Boghos Youssouff, he consented to the im- 
portation of a /iéfle grain from Malta, but solely for 
their use. This was only done to give a colouring to 
the affair; because in a general way, corn is not al- 
lowed to be imported. I am borne out in these as- 
sertions by others, and their evidence will perhaps give 
more weight to my statements than the re-iteration of 
facts witnessed by myself.* It is really impossible to 

* “The revenues,” says Mouslear L. Bousquet Deschamps, “ which might 
eaxily be augmented by one-third, are now sensibly diminihed by the de- 
plorablo situation to which the foolish prodigality of their raler has reduced 
‘this people. Tho more abundant the crops, the more thelr misery augments ; 
for Mobuunmed All increases his extensive operations in proportion to the re 
sources he expects from the sale of his produce, exports a greater quantity, 
exacts from thie peasant all that be his, and even snore haa be Das, and abus= 
dant years are most frequently observed to be accompanied hy a dearth." * 

© In 1899," says « vory able countryman of our own, " there was a groat 
dearth in Rgypt, particularly at Rosetta. The people died of hunger, while a 
horrible and uabeant of fact—mountains of ernin, destined tw the speculations 
of Mohammed Ali, sprouted in the open alr, before the eyes of the inhabitants, 
‘who had not the perwission to purchase any of It. Tt was uot until the grain 
‘was spolled chat It was sald to them, with the prohibition to procure any other, 
Alexsndrin and Caro were equally subjected to this tyrannieal measure. ‘The 
government first sold half wheat and half barley, mixed together; the wheat 





+“ Doux Mots sur 'Egypto,"" Smyrna, 1832, 





202 «= INCIDENT—LA FAMILLE MALHEURBUSE. 


convey anything like an adequate idea of the wretched- 
ness which exists at times. I have no hesitation in as- 
sorting that I saw people starving in the public streets. 
Travellers may write, but in a country like England, 
their statements will hardly be credited ; especially as 
these unfortunate creatures were actually in a land of 
plenty, surrounded by every luxury, the crops rotting 
before their eyes, and yet they dared not help them- 
selves, to satisfy the common cravings of hunger. 
Had Mohammed Ali been forewarned in a dream, 
like Pharaoh of old, that there should come “first 
seven years of great plenty, and afterwards seven years 
of famine” throughout Egypt ?{—was it his destiny 
to be apprized beforehand, that the famine should be 
“very grievous,” and that it should “consume the 
land?” If so, it was only disereet and wise to lay up 


‘was afterwards stopped, and mouldy beans wero substituted. ‘This eontinned 
for about three or four months, and corn was contraband throughout Egypt- 
‘Some wheat was even imported from Syria by private xpeculation, a thing un- 
‘known in Egypt since the famine of Ismucn Bey: but a heayy duty put a stop 
to the promised relief."* 

‘Madame St. Elme, who was in the Delta at this very period, gives a most 
affteting picture of tho wrotched condition of the people. She beheld a poor 
woman sitting on the ground with two children, whose squalid, waster forms, 
mado a silent but heart-rending appeal to the sympathy of all present. One 
of the children was an infant in arm, sick, and famished j the other was ready 
to oxpire by her side, aud when the question was asked why she did not give 
her baby the breast, the mother cast m wilil end terrible look at the speaker, 
and replied, Tt would be Dotter that the child were dead, for We has been 

‘very long time fits wo have nothing to support oureelvos, and my mille i dried 
wp: wpe Adelar being then placed in her hand, « convulsive shudder esenpett 
her; she setzed the two infants, preesod them eagerly to her bosom, and placing 
the band of her beoefuctress upon 
parted with hurried steps, exp 
anthorvas concludes with these 
‘vated, it wonld enrich its possessor Pp 
sterile patrimony of the unfortunate Arab, who is dying in despair and 
misery "4 

+ Genesis, xli. 20,30, 1. 


* See the Literary | : 
+ [a Contemporaine en Egypte, tom 4, ps ‘au. 








GRANARIES—EXACTION AND STARVATION, 203 


rich stores of “corn, and wine, and oil ;” but, was it 
for this that he “appointed officers over the land,” 
and that he “gathered all the food,” and “laid up 
corn,” and “kept the food in the cities ?”—was it in 
order that the food should be as ‘a store to the land,” 
that the people “ perish not through famine?* Cer- 
tainly not. He may have had dreams of future great- 
ness; but, it is pretty evident, from what has since 
transpired, that he was making preparations for the 
assertion of his independence. The sage counselling 
of the modern Youssouff (Joseph), was very different 
from the inspired wisdom which directed the actions of 
the King, in the days of the Patriarchs. Ae had com- 
passion on his people; and for their sakes did he lay 
up corn in all the cities, that they might not perish for 
want of food ; and though he knew that there were to 
be seven years of scarcity, and that the famine would 
press hard upon his subjects, yet did he take to him- 
self but a “fifth part” of the produce, during the 
years of plenty which preceded the dearth ; and when 
the days of the blight began to come, éhen did he not 
withhold the food from the people, but cheerfully dis- 
tributed to ali, freely and without reserve, save only as 
their interest was concerned.t With Mohammed Ali, 
however, the case was widely different; he was ac- 
tuated by feelings of another kind; he seemed de- 
termined if possible to satiate his avarice, and to avail 


* Gon, xii. 14—96, 

+" And when all the land of Egypt wax fumished, the peeple eried to 
Pharaoh for bread; and Pharach said unto all the Rgyptians, *Go unto 
Joswph; what he sayeth to you, do. 

* And the famine was over all the face of the earth and Joseph opened all 
the storehouses, and sold nto the Egyptians ; and the farnine waxed sore in 
the land of Bgypt. 

© And all couatries enme into Exypt to Joseph for to buy core ; because that 
the famine was £0 sore in all Innds."—Cencsis, xli. 6, 6, 7. 


204 MUSTY FLOUR AND HORSE-BEANS SOLD 


himself of the bounteous blessings of Providence, to 
insure his own future aggrandizement. So far from 
being content to take a “ fifth part’ (which, however, 
under such circumstances, would not have been justi- 
fiable), he took the whole. It was in 1829, as in the 
time of Joseph, “the earth brought forth by hand- 
fulls ;” he “ gathered corn as the sand of the sea, very 
much, until he left numbering; for if was without 
number ;" and ‘he laid up the food in the cities: the 
food of the field which was round about every city, 
laid he up in the same;” but for his own selfish 
purposes, and not for the people's good ; for though 
he knew that they were starving at his gate, and that 
they “cried unto him for bread,’ stil/ opened he not 
his storehouses, neither suffered he the officers to sell 
them corn, but continued rather to pile it up in heaps, 
to rot and to spoil: and not even satisfied with this, he 
prohibited those who had money importing grain into 
the country for their own use, and “corn was contra- 
band.” ‘This his best friends allow, as also, that 
“mouldy beans” were mixed up with bad flour, and 
sold at a high price to the poor. Ido not mean to 
say that there was no good bread to be got by those 
Europeans who had the means of paying for it; and 
after a time, this strange infatuation certainly di- 
minished ; but there is no doubt that matters went 
very hard with the unfortunate fellah, and that the 
rigorous measures adopted by Mohammed Ali, fully 
justify the assertions that have been made concerning 
them; they furnish also very strong grounds for the 
belief that persons did die of starvation, 1 was in 
Egypt at the time, and the scenes I then witnessed, 
left this conviction upon my mind. 

Some whom I respect have attempted to defend the 

2 





AS WHOLESOME Foop—buRYING aLIve! 205 


Pascha’s conduct, on the score of expediency: but 
having been called upon, during a long residence, to 
attend the sick, I had extensive opportunities of know- 
ing that the want of food was, in very many instances, 
the chief, and often the sole cause of their sufferings, 
and that its judicious administration would haye done 
more good than any medicine which I could give 
them: haying, moreover, no interest of a private or 
political nature to induce me to be silent, I feel myself 
in a situation to speak without reserve, and I am con- 
fident I shall be borne out in my assertions by every 
traveller who was then in the country; that is, if he 
chooses to express his real sentiments. The poor 
were 10 be seen lying about among the debris, at the 
skirts of villages, in the scorching sua, not only in a 
state of nudity, but pale, sickly, and emaciated, faint, 
and broken-hearted, tormented by the flies, and in such 
a feeble state, that they could with difficulty defend 
themselves from the rats and dogs ; and even when food 
or money has been offered them, they have scarcely 
had strength to take it. These things are not 
changed. 

In Egypt, hundreds may die, and no sort of cog: 
nizance be taken of the fact. Persons are usually 
buried the same day, often within twelve hours ; indeed, 
sometimes when they are hardly cold; and I fear, 
occasionally before they are dead! One day, a young 
woman having been seized (as people thought,) with 
apoplexy, was supposed to be no more. The body 
was forthwith decorated with flowers, perfumed, and 
hurried to the grave upon a stretcher. On arriving at 
the spot, signs of returning animation were observed, 
and the patient gradually recovered,—thanks to the 
fresh air! In these countries, no coffin is used, what- 





206 THE MUSSULMAUN'S FAITH! 


ever may have been the cause of death; nor is 
any question asked: there is no coroner’s inquest, no 
jury, no investigation of any kind, as in England, and 
nobody cares. A man may sink down and expire 
without the walls, among the rubbish or the tombs, for 
lack of sustenance, and be devoured by the dogs and 
jacals : and people may know nothing about it. Such 
things, though rare, have nevertheless happened. It 
is to be lamented that even one human being should 
have fallen in the midst of a land of plenty, and 
surrounded by pomp and luxury, unheeded, and alas! 
unpitied, except by those who were as destitute and 
wretched as himself; and who, having no resource in 
their afffiction, patiently endure all, put their unfeigned 
trust in Allah, and calmly turning towards the “ Holy 
Caaba,” prostrate themselves humbly upon the sand, 
give glory to God and the Prophet, and implore a 


ly termination to their sufferings! Such is the 
result of the Mussulmaun's faith: and speaking gene- 
rally, these unfortunate beings do act from the best of 
principle, Whatever be their doctrines, we must give 
them credit for fortitude, patience, and resignation. 
Few men, whether Christian or Infidel, can show 
more: and nampa many excellent qualities, it 


is a thousand pities that they cannot be emancipated 
altogether : for a cloud of pagan darkness still hovers 
over them, But, to return from this digression !* 
Wheat is almost the only plant that may be said 
to flourish in every clime; and where it is the most 
wholesome and the most required, it grows in the 
greatest plenty: from which we may infer that it is 
the food most essential to life. It is constantly 


* L shall spcuk of the manner in which the Pascha odtatne postession 
corn when oa the subject of taxation! Seo Vol. IT. Chap, 1. 11, 11, 





PHYSIOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 207 


alluded to as such in the Script and we know 
very well, that Egypt, both in ancient and modern 
times, has always been celebrated for its grain: and 
that it is even now, one of the chief export articles. 
Mohammed Ali might surely then have found means 
to spare a little for his suffering people, even though 
he deprived them of all things else. ‘The food of the 
Jews consisted chiefly of honey, rice, milk, vegetables, 
and bread; and therefore it was, no doubt, that the 
“land of promise” was designated “a land flowing 
with milk and honey,” these things being, more than 
every other, acceptable to them, and grateful to their 
feelings and habits. It was no uncommon practice 
with the Jews, to roast the corn; or more properly, to 
parch: it, and this practice still exists in some districts. 

At one time, it was a matter of dispute as to what 
should be the proper food of man: but now, no 
longer. That which nature intended for the most 
suitable food of an animal is sufficiently pointed out 
by the structure of the teeth, jaws, and digestive organs ; 
and although we find men possessing different views 
and different tastes, according to the regions they 
ocupey, there is no longer any doubt that man is 
(what is understood by the term) omnivorous, i. ¢. 
that he was designed to partake of all kinds of food 
in moderation, and of no kind exclusively. Habit 
may do much in moulding the taste; every man finds 
out by experience what things are best suited to his 
condition, and if he is wise, he will live accordingly ; 
but we may depend upon it, there is nothing on the 
face of the earth that may not be turned to advantage, 
if duly considered. In the more temperate regions, 

* Lake xi. 6. 
4 Levitieus, xxill, 142 Sem, xvi, 26-—Toshim, ys 1. 





208 ESSENTIALS TO HEALTH AND LONGEVITY, 


a greater variety of food may be procured than within 
the tropics, and the appetite is perhaps more caprici- 
ous, independently of cultivation and example: the 
digestion i is also more active, and the constitution more 
vigorous, than in hot countries; we cannot therefore 
be too careful how we regulate our diet. But our 
other habits must be tempered too! The great secret 
of life is to avoid excess, and to maintain, as much as 
in us lies, a just balance between the mind and body 1 
A celebrated individual has quaintly declared, that the 
chief requisites to health and longevity are, “a clear 
conscience, a contented ae and a clean skin!” 
Another, in the same spirit, has said, “Praise God! 
and keep the bowels ope Of a surely, we can 
seldom go wrong, if we > the voice of nature, 
take proper exercise i th mn ait, rise early, and do 
unto all men as we should do unto us. 

bly find that we have 


less occasion for rasa 
fruits and roo! 

and refreshing, 

tritious ; and | 

are no where to 


who) may in futu 

their own happiness, 
animal food. They 
to abstain from: 
organs are weaken 


towards the poles ; 

e ‘cooling, grateful, 
way, sufficiently nu- 

ic, and powerful men 
g the Arab tribes, 
ceous; but if, in low 
solid animal food, 
incapable of exertion, 
ase; and thus it 


en the digestive 
by fatigue, temperature, 





DIETETICS—HABITS AND CUSTOMS. 209 


or the condition of the atmosphere, as will not un- 
frequently happen, they may rest assured, that a tepid 
bath, repose, moderate diet, a cup of coffee, and a 
single pipe of “ D'gebaile,” will do more good than 
a full meal. There is, in all men, great sympathy be- 
tween the skin and the stomach, as we know by the 
common experiment of drinking a glass of cold water 
to produce perspiration, and by the loss of appetite 
and sickness, which attend diseases of the skin and 
check of perspiration. When a person perspires 
freely, thirst is sometimes urgent, and the body feels 
weak; but it would be wrong to have recourse to wine 
or spirits, under the idea of supporting the strength ; 
the debility produced, is only temporary, and if it may 
not be referred to exertion, is often deceptive, and 
most likely depends on fulness of habit, which the 
perspiration is designed to alleviate. Instead of in- 
terrupting this salutary operation of nature, we should 
endeavour to facilitate it by abstinence, and by taking 
a Seidlitz powder or some other simple laxative; but 
spirits would render the thirst more urgent, and tend 
to produce fever and dysentery. Composure and rest, 
and when it is possible, shelter from the sun's rays, 
will contribute much more to the relief of such symp- 
toms: for they are often aggravated by a natural rest- 
lessness of disposition, and # sanguine temperament. 
Those who are too ardent, generally suffer from fever : 
those again, who persist in the customs of their own 
nation, favor congestive diseases, and determine the 
blood to the head, which should be kept cool, yet pro- 
tected from the sun by day, and the dew by night. 
Orientals generally sleep for an hour or two at noon; 
and the soothing influence of tobacco and coffee, when 
* D'geballe, » tows: on the coast of Syria, famous for Ike tobacon 
YOu. I P 





210 PHYSICAL EFFECTS OF CLIMATE ON MAN. 


used in moderation, is sufficiently obvious. If we 
make a call either on a native, or on one of the resi- 
dent Franks, at that time, nothing is more likely than 
that we shall be told he is asleep, or in his harem, by 
which we are to understand that he is engaged with 
his family, and would be excused. We cannot do 
better, wherever we may happen to be, than to follow 
the example of the natives; for the prevailing customs of 
a country are generally those which are most conducive 
to the health and well-being of its inbabitants. Common 
sense will point out to us the folly of engaging in per- 
nicious practices. Indolence invariably produces ple- 
thora and disease ; but it is equally incumbent upon us 
to avoid excitement; it wil/ not do in a hot country. 
In order to enjoy health, we must adapt our habits 
to circumstances, and take every thing guietly ; ta this 
respect, a good deal of that which in the Turk we call 
apathy, is real wisdom, provided it be not carried too 
far. In the East, there is generally more inclination 
to drink than to eat, especially when perspiring freely ; 
but to this we are advised to prescribe a limit, more 
particularly when the sun is at its height. Even in 
Europe, during a hot summer, we sometimes feel! dis- 
posed to take a glass of cold water or liqueur as astimu- 
tus, before we can eat our dinner ; but if we indulge the 
inclination, we create a false appetite, and often we 
should do better to refrain entirely, or eat bat little. 
The digestion has become weak from some cause or 
other: it matters not whether it be temperature, 
anxiety, or dissipation, cither in regard to pleasure, 
study, or business; the effect is the same in every 
ease: the stomach has Jost its tone, its function is de- 
ranged, and its labour should be rendered light. The 
very circumstance of our loathing the food which at 





THE DIGESTIVE ORGANS—OLD AGE—REPOSR. 212 


other times we eat with appetite, is a corroboration of 
the fact, or a stimulus would not be called for; but if 
we disregard this useful monitor, and overload the 
stomach, heedless of consequences, we shall surely 
pay the penalty of our folly. 

It isa very common thing for elderly people to say, 
even in England, that they have no relish for ordinary 
food, and that they require something nice,—stimu- 
lating, savoury meats, in order to tempt them to eat. 
‘This is a mistake; and. they will do well to profit by 
the foregoing remarks.* The observation, “ Once a 
man, and twice a child,” refers to the body as well as 
to the mind. The animal functions are enfeebled, in 
proportion as the intellect is impaired, and vice versi. 
The balance of the circulation being lost, the pulse is 
slow, the secretions diminish, the strength fails, and 
the powers of life are no longer vigorous. Asa grow- 
ing infant requires sleep, so does an aged man need re- 
pose to restore his energies ; an equal degree of care 
and watchfulness is necessary for both; a regular 
system of diet should be pursued; the meals should 
be frequent, but very light, simple, and moderate. 
Much food is not necessary: the celebrated Cornaro, 
who, by attention to these matters, lived toa great age, 
subsisted latterly, almost on an egg a-day, and enjoyed 
good health.f ~The slumbers of old age do more good 
than food ; they facilitate digestion, and tranquillize the 
nerves; and thus it is clear that more nourishment, 
and greater benefit are to be derived to an old man, 
by a moderate quantity of plain aliment, than by 
pampering the appetite with highly seasoned meats, 

> When sane was old, and his eyes dim, te wuld unto Beau, ‘ Go out to the 
field, and take me some venison ; and make me savoury meat, such aa § love.” 





212 INTEMPERANCE—DOVES OF UPPER EGYPT. 


rich sauces, and ragouts, stimulating the stomach to 
do what, in fact, it has not stamina to perform! It is 
true there are some old men who boast that they can 
eat and drink any thing, and plenty of it; but such 
istances are rare; and it is reasonable to suppose, 
that if they (who have had a stronger constitution 
than their neighbours) were more moderate, instead of 
rendering the latter days of their pilgrimage miserable, 
or of being cut off suddenly, as they frequently are, 
they might even be spared to a much later period, in 
the full enjoyment of their faculties, surrounded by a 
numerous and healthy progeny, and, at the close of a 
venerable existence, be permitted to confer a patri- 
archal blessing on their children’s children, perhaps 
to the fourth generation, If all this reasoning applies 
to those in the temperate zone, its force will be more 
fully appreciated within the tropics. ‘The facts I 
persons who have resided 

fest Indies; and I never 

yet met with an officer who had suffered much from 
disease there, who did not acknowledge that he was a 
lence, having engaged in 

jit might be hog-hunting, 

", exposing himself to the 


doves of f Upper Ean are also most delicious eating; 
they are light and tender, and of such exquisite favour, 
that they must be accounted a great delicacy; but it 
is a shame to shoot them, for they are so yery tame, 
and are so seldom disturbed by the natives for want of 





* 
PIGEONS —MUTTON—ARAKI—YOUART. 213 


powder and shot, that they do not seem to understand 
the meaning of agun. ‘They are alarmed for a few 
moments by the report, fly round, and return to the 
same place. One of our party who was a very bad 
shot, being near sighted, actually one day fired three 
times at the same bird, and lost him at last; this was 
at the second cataract, in Nubia. 

The pigeons of Egypt are also very nice, and very 
wholesome; and so is the mutton; indeed, [ never 
tasted finer in my life, any where,—it is equal to any 
that this country produces ; and is not even inferior to 
that of Wales, or the South Downs ;—this is allowed 
by every traveller, although our “gourmands” may 
not like to acknowledge it. All of these things may 
be partaken of occasionally; and when more than 
usually fatigued, there can be no objection to a small 
quantity of brandy, Marsala wine, or “ Araki,” mixed 
with cold water. Araki is commonly prepared from 
dates; but the best Araki is obtained by macerating 
the skins of grapes, after they have been pressed for 
the wine, and then subjecting the fluid to the process 
of distillation ; the spirit which comes over, is subse- 
quently flavoured with angelica and mastich, and if 
properly managed, is a very wholesome and pleasant 
liqueur: but it must not be confounded with the trash 
that is sometimes met with in towns and villages in the 
interior, It contains a good deal of essential oil, forms a 
white cloud when diluted, and is somewhat similar to an= 
niseed, but less aromatic and pungent, and very superior.* 


g Weds i Merah sored mart mercenh Sanit mes Sosa 
Jn 4 great degree, to my own prudence. I adopted the! the reapoctable 
peepee ihn ali pber tact ae 
norer rugret having taken my advice. Taremo early, and commenced the day 
with a small cup of coffee. The rest of my diet consisted cithor of the ** pilaf,” 
or of a soup prepared with meat, rice, and vogetables ; but T did not eat the 





214 SHERBET—FEMALE INDUSTRY. 


To return to my narrative. We had finished our 
evening meal, and had just despatched a water-melon, 
and a petite verre d’Araki. There was a lightness i in 
the air, which as Europeans, we could well appreciate, 
and its influence was felt also by the lively Arabs, our 
crew. One or two had strayed into the town; the rest 
were either engaged with their pipe, or joining in the 
chorus to one more musical than the rest, who played 
upon a rude sort of three-stringed lyre, and accom- 
panied it with his voice. We, too, were sipping our 
coffee, t’chibouque a la main, in the open air. The 
imale part of the creation seemed to have diminished, 
and those of them which remained, had relinquished 
their labours: the females alone continued their oc- 
cupations. The women in Egypt are quite as in- 
dustrious as the men, and sometimes more so: they 
are seldom idle, and they perform even some of the 
most laborious offices ; they may be seen tending the 
water-wheels ; they loosen the soil, sow the corn, and 
assist in gathering and grinding it; they also make 
bread, and prepare the food, (an office which it is 
thought disgraceful for a man to engage in;) they 

‘had recourse fo any thing else, unless a fow figs, some water- 

melon, dates, or * Yotinrt."—or ae it t+ tarmed in Rgypt, * Raib,'* which 
1" (smoot), —ar, as the Turks say, 

Minor, whioh is s0 called on. 

‘then is nothing more than mille 

curdled in tho sun; and it does not differ from the clouted milk of this 
couutry, orcurds and whey, Tt is pleusuntly uct, und in the Rast, leu move 
grateful food. The native Inhabitants of Cordofan and Darfodr may be said 
to make it the chief of thelr diet, togethor with cheese and fruits. Morning 
| Anglaise, and ono or twiee 


when it could be hads Lemonade the best form of sherbet, and the 
water of the Nile ts much esteemed ; but 
from either eating or drluking during the heat of the day, 


* “Haled,!” or “ Aleppo," which ie surrounded by beautifal orchards mad 
gardens, i 








TERPSICHORE, EUTERPE, AND THE GRacES. 215 


wash clothes, attend to their house and children, and 
fetch water; they even work the clay, and form it into 
bricks. It would seem, however, that there are ex- 
ceptions to every rule, even in Egypt; for while we 
were watching the different moving objects around us, 
our attention was suddenly arrested by the approach of 
three females of very different aspect and character: 
they had laid aside the modest veil, and with it, their 
reputation; they were attired in a quantity of gaudy, 
glittering finery of various colours, thrown upon them 
without any regard to neatness or decorum, and so 
transparent as scarcely to conceal the skin. They im- 
posed upon themselves no sort of restraint; they 
exerted all their powers of fascination to the utmost ; 
but neither their languishing glances, nor the more 
ardent expressions of their full, black, sparkling eyes 
produced the effect intended ; for their general deport- 
ment was worthy of the most frantic Bacchanalian 
revels, and so far from exciting admiration, was only 
calculated to create disgust. The face was entirely 
exposed to view, and although a stranger to a blush, 
familiar with paint, which was not of the most ex- 
qnisite quality, and daubed upon the sallow cheek 
without discretion, They wore a chemise of thin 
muslin or gauze, which was open to the waist ; and a 
préfusion of black and highly perfumed tresses, orna- 
mefited with fragments of gold coin, hung down the 
back: to the loins, around which was negligently thrown 
a silken scarf of many colours, which could be variously 
disartanged at the pleasure of the wearer, Their 
tones ‘and words of course corresponded with their 

All that art could do, according to their 
judgnient, was done to render them * bewitching.” 
‘As thhy” drew near, they twirled about, and commenced 





216 HoURIs oF THE SEVENTH HEAVEN ! 


a sort of slow, sidling movement (of which the 
“ Cachoucha ” is a faint imitation,) and during which, 
they put themselves into all kinds of gross and obscene 
attitudes, and threw out the most insinuating, lascivious, 
looks. ‘These were liberally distributed on all around 5 
but the artillery of their smiles and melting sighs was 
chiefly directed against ourselves ; and, if I mistake 
not, they would gladly have taken refuge beneath the 
Union Jack: but unfortunately for them, (or for us,) 
we were made of sterner stuff than to be moved to love 
by such like ‘ Houris,”"—and the “ Paradise” we 
sought, was altogether of a different kind. This 
might be from a want of taste, and no doubt, they 
thought so; for after exhausting all their strength to 
no purpose,—having failed to charm the obdurate 
hearts of the beholders,— having sung their last air, 
and gone through the last scene of their amorous 
exhibition, during which they had laboured not a little, 
they reluctantly withdrew to a short distance, murmur: 
ing, and displeased that they were allowed to depart 
without even ‘ backscheesh,” and without the consola- 
tion of having rifled a single heart. One of them, 
older and more ugly than her companions, had played 
upon a sort of lyre, and sang whilst her more ‘fair’? 
sisters danced.* ‘The contrast which they formed 
with the different objects on the quay, and particularly 
with the females, who, while they continued their 
avocations, drew their “yaschmak" (veil) or their 
“fared'je" (cloak) still more close, was very great. 
T could not but pity these poor creatures; it struck 
me that they did not follow this sort of life by choice, 

* We saw many such exhibitions subsequently, the performances varying 
according to the fancy of the particn, who sometimes danced, played, and vang, 


at others they only danced, or danced and sang, and the instruments 
wore either the viol, lute, tambour, or lyre, and the castanets. 








Love's LaBouR Lost !—tae “ GH’AWaAzeR.” 217 


but that they had been regularly instructed in it; and 
the extreme to which they carried the dance, proved 
that it was only to be acquired by much study and 
practice : they were obviously fatigued, and were now 
reclining in the shade. We sent them a present, for 
which they were very grateful, and rose up to follow 
Mobammed when he parted from them, but he gave 
them to understand that their services were not re- 
quired ; and as for dancing,—nous en etions contens 
pour une fois ! 

These girls, though perhaps of easy virtue, are 
distinct from the ** femmes publiques,” or courtezans, 
which abound in eyery large town in Egypt, and which 
are comparatively modest in their appearance, and 
decent in their behaviour, notwithstanding they go with 
the face uncovered. ‘They pay a capitation-tax to the 
Pascha for their licence," which is a source of 
great profit to him, But these gay beauties —“les 
demoiselles qui dansent,” the wanton votaries of 
“ Athor” the “Mother of the Universe,”—are de- 
nominated “Gh’awazee.” ‘They are to be seen in 
almost every great town, and in some of the villages: 
they sing and dance near the coffee houses, for the 
gratification of the licentious, and may be considered 
a very inferior and corrupt imitation of the  Almeh,”” 
so famous in the days of the ancient Egyptians. 
Similar performers, but of a much higher grade, are 
still to be met with at the banquets of the luxurious ; 
and they do not differ in the slightest degree, either in 
regard to dress, habits, or demeanour, from those which 
flourished, and danced before the great, in the days of 
the Pharaohs, and to which frequent allusion is made 
in the sacred writings.* We have also an excellent 

* teat v.11, 12, 





218 THE ALMitH—nAYADERES—IMPROVVISATRICI. 


representation of them on the walls of the tombs in 
Upper Egypt, particularly at ‘Thebes, and in the 
grottoes of Hilithyias.* 

‘The term Alméh, or Al-mai, signifies skilful, learned, 
knowing, i. e. in a worldly sense; and now, as for- 
merly, the class of people so designated, travel about 
the country, to sing, dance, and play, when hired. 
‘They charge according to their rank and acknow- 
ledged abilities, and are under the superintendence of 
a police officer—the Pezawink Bashi.t They are a 
peculiar race, like the Bayadéres, or Nautch girls, of 
India: they associate together ; and the towns in which 
they chiefly dwell, are known to the inhabitants. But 
there is as much difference between the Almeh of the 
ancients, and the Gh’awazee of the moderns, as there 
is between the opera singers and ballet-dancers of 
Europe, when compared with the performers at a 
country fair. Some writers have given very glowing 
descriptions of the Alméh; they have compared them 
to the Italian Improvvisatrici, and their performances 
have been admired as poetical and romantic, in as 
much as, by practice, they are enabled to illustrate the 
human passions, and exhibit the most intense feelings 
of the soul. But it must not be forgotten that the 
business of their lives has always been, rather to 
appeal to the senses than the understandings of men, 
inflame the imagination, and steal away the heart ; and 
although it is true that they were admitted in days of 
old to the presence of the great, and that in modern 
times, the ladies of the harems are instructed by them 
in singing and dancing—that they recite poems for 


© See Vol. 11. 
§ The Chief Pimp, or Captain of the Courtezans: and this maw Is obliged 
to keep & register of nll who are wader his care, 





THE ELEUSINIAN MYSTERIES. 219 


their amusement, and set forth all their powers, to 
render their fair pupils adepts in the art of pleasing, 
the object is still the same. They may have sweet 
yoices and fine forms; they may be very graceful, 
alluring, and pathetic in their demeanour,—still it 
must be confessed, I think, that their sentimentality is 
of too substantial a nature to be refined, and too 
characteristic of Mohammedan joys to be misunder- 
stood. We are assured that the ladies of every 
harem, not only in Egypt, but in Syria, Turkey, India, 
and Persia, are in the constant habit of acting these 
libidinous charades,—that to excelin such performances, 
is accounted an accomplishment, and seldom fails to 
procure for the individual, the marked favour, if not 
the affection, of her lord and master,—and that in 
Cairo, some of the Italian and French residents have 
so far contracted the habits of Oriental females, as 
themselves to indulge in similar orgies: thus imitat- 
ing the example of the Greeks and Romans, who at 
one period, according to Horace and Juvenal, also 
took a part in the same voluptuous exhibitions.* 
The most celebrated of the modern Egyptian Alméh, 
reside at a small, retired mud-village, about half an 
hour’s ride from Cairo, It is called Sha'arah, and is 
pleasantly situated among fields and plantations. 

Now, much as we may be disposed to condemn such 
representations as those which I have briefly glanced 
at, I much question, whether some of the ballet-per- 
formances in Europe, are not almost as indecent, and 
as immoral in their tendency, if we view the subject 
impartially, and make proper allowance for the dif- 

* The Kievsininn Mysteries of the Greeks wore also practised at Rome 
during the reign of Adrian. They were observed with even more frosdont and 


Lcentiousness there than in Gree, wo read, for 2800 years; until at last, they 
‘wore abolished by Theodorius the Grewt.—Lempriére. 





220 THE SONG AND THE DANCE—ARAB WOMEN. 


ference of taste, feeling, and society,—which after all, 
depends in a great degree, on temperament and climate; 
and the chief distinction between Europeans and 
Asiatics, is simply this,—that the blessings of educa- 
tion and religion have been extended freely to the one, 
and withheld from the other: the propensities of our 
nature are the same in both.* 

It appears to have been the custom of every age and 
country, to employ the song and the dance as a public 
demonstration of joy ; but professional singers, dancers, 
and musicians were not only in request at marriage 
feasts and banquets, but also on religious festivals, and 
on many other great occasions. They formed a 
prominent feature in all processions and rejoicings 
after a victory, in every triumph, when it was intended 
to do honour to some favorite, patriot, or hero, at the 
time of the vintage, or when the harvest was gathered : 
and it was on one of these, that the Benjamites seized 
upon the virgins of Shiloh.f 

We again set sail ; and as we departed, I could not 
help thinking of the extraordinary scene I had just 
witnessed. I had often read of the Egyptian Alméh, 
but I certainly was not prepared to find that any 
females would be allowed to indulge such freedom, 
and so completely to lay aside restraint publicly, even 
before Mohammedans, much less in the presence of 
Christians! Generally speaking, I believe the Egyp- 
tian women have not the character of being particularly 
modest or virtuous. This may be slander: but it is 


© For a.more minute deseription of the Alméh, consult tho works of Nie- 
bubr, St. John's Egypt, and Russell's Aleppo. 

t Judges, xxl. 21. Seo Exodus xv. 20, 21.—xxxil. 19. — Judges xi, 
84.—1 Samuel xxi. 1—2 Samuel vis 14, 16-—Isaluh y, 11, 12.— Psalme 
sxlvif, Liev, 25—el. 4 iil. 8 exert bad 

4 





MATRIMONY —POLYGAMY—ENFANS CHERIES. 221 


not wonderful if so sweeping a charge should be 
substantiated, when the principles of their education, 
the general laxity of manners among the men, and the 
tenets of the Mussulmaun faith, are considered. The 
facility which is afforded them of contracting marriage, 
is very great: for that which with us is a solemn bond 
for life, and becomes a very serious affair, with them is 
regarded with comparative indifference, and as a matter 
of course, a mere ordinance of man for mutual con- 
venience. They donot expect to engage the husband’s 
affections entirely, nor do they imagine that they have 
the exclusive right to them: they laugh at the idea of 
Europeans being allowed to have only one wife, and 
they cannot understand it; for in Egypt a man can 
marry four, not more: but then he may retain as 
many “enfans cheries,"’ or “esclayes d’amours,” a3 
his circumstances will permit. Nevertheless, it is 
seldom that a man has more than one wif, or at most 
two, for it is found very inconvenient ; not so much on 
account of a numerous progeny, for the enervating 
practices in which the wealthy indulge, sufficiently 
prevent that. Except among the lower orders, the 
average number of children I believe does not exceed 
two. Itis a very common thing for a man to enter 
into a matrimonial arrangement for a given period, say 
two, five or seven years; the woman has a protector 
during this time, and she takes the chance of the con- 
tract being renewed at its expiration. 

The Arabs and Nubians are alike subject to the 
Mohammedan law in this respect. During the reign 
of the Sultan Selim, they were allowed to have as 
many as thirty wives, exclusive of concubines, but 
although this was a privilege granted only to the rich 
and powerful, none were allowed to exceed this num- 





222 MATCH-MAKING, AND FAMILY CONTRACTS. 


ber; and this indulgence was denied even to the happy 
few, when a certain Prince or Bey, Mullah Hassein, 
whose territory was between Kssouan and Ouadj Halfa 
and the Cataracts, represented to Mohammed Ali the 
inconsistency of such a practice : and it was prohibited 
in consequence. None are obliged to marry for life, 
though they may do so if they please: but it must be 
so stipulated in the bargain, and it is not considered 
respectable to do otherwise. The case is simply this. 
A young man wishing to take a wife, intimates as 
much to his mother, or some female relative: the 
answer is, “I will seek among my acquaintances for 
a suitable girl.” This is accordingly done ; the gentle- 
man is not supposed to sce the lady before marriage, 
though it is of course contrived, as if by accident. 
A day is fixed by the parents, when the young man 
shall pass where the lady happens to be with her 
mother, either watering flowers, gathering fruit, or 
engaged in some other equally pretty oecupation, and 
where, laughing and talking without reserve, she is 
either unveiled or ingeniously lets her veil drop after 
the most becoming and approved fashion, just at the 
very moment he approaches, as if unconscious that a 
man is at hand. 

In this or in some such way, the future husband is 
allowed an opportunity of beholding the blushing “ fair 
one,” and without a further interview, decides whether 
she shall become his bride. The lady bas of course 
seen the young man often, on his way to the mosque, 
the bath, or the bazaar, without having displayed her 
own charms ; but this is of little consequence, as she 
hasno will to say “‘no!" when her parentssay “ yes !"" 
Matches are made by the elders for their sons and 
daughters ; aud family connections are thus cemented, 





STIPULATIONS AND LAWS—DIVORCE. 223 


A sort of contract is then drawn up between the 
parties, by a scribe and a priest; the bridegroom 
stipulating the sum that is to be paid to the bride on 
the day of marriage, and which, if they be not united 
for life, is in proportion to the length of time they 
propose to live together.* He is bound to clothe and 
support her until they separate, when he engages to 
pay her another sum, (generally equal to that paid on 
the wedding day,) in the presence of a priest and 
other witnesses. The women can in no case legally 
marry again, after parting from one husband, within 
seven months and ten days, the ostensible object of 
which is, to see whether she prove with child. At the 
expiration of this time, she is permitted to marry 
again; but the former husband is bound by law, to 
support her child or children until seven years of age; 
and to this end, the mother receives, or ougié to re= 
ceive, an allowance per diem, varying (according to the 
condition of the parties) from a few parahs to ten 
piastres, or more. If a woman part from her husband, 
having children more than seven years old, it is a law 
that the females remain with the mother, and the males 
with the father. When a man thus dismisses his wife, 
or renounces her, as the case may be, he gives her a 
written document on the subject, in order that she may 
show that she is at liberty to marry again ; otherwise, 
little importance is attached to a “ bill of divoree- 
ment," for a man thinks no more of putting away his 
wife, than of casting off an old shoe. This is literally 


* Sombtimes prosonta are interchanged between the parents, and the youth * 
fends the lady some token of hix love before mai . He not anfrequently 
has to fee the father, and if be has nothing to give, as In days of old, he lence 
his serviows for a timo. ‘The fraud prastived by Laban on Jucob, ie by no means 
uncommon fn the present day, especially among the Armonlans, who atill hold 
that the elder sone and daughters should saarry first. — See Geuesis, xxix, 
‘An Armenian wedding Is well described in the Penny Mag; for Nov, th, 1893. 





224 MARRIAGE CEREMONIES AND CUSTOMS. 


the fact, both among the Jews and Arabs; and the 
presentation of a slipper to the party who becomes the 
future husband, is the symbol still in use, even as in 
the days of the ancient Hebrews. We are assured 
that the Bedoueen Arabs adhere to the custom of claim- 
ing the wife of a deceased brother, and that although 
not actually compelled to accept bim, she seldom 
refuses ; for they consider, that by such a match, the 
family property is kept together. A man has also an 
exclusive right to the hand of his cousin: he is not 
obliged to marry her, but she cannot unite herself with 
another without his consent.* ‘The religious portion 
of the marriage ceremony is very short, A priest 
is advertised that a wedding is to take place; the 
parties assemble together with the friends, but not in a 
mosque. The priest simply asks if they are content 
to marry—fresh presents are offered, and the sum of 
money to be paid is stated to the priest. The lady is 
not allowed to answer questions for herself, as it is 
supposed she might say something wrong; but one of 
the male relatives answers for her : she is closely veiled 
during the whole ceremony, (so the deceit of passing 
off an elder daughter, may be easily accomplished, ) and 
the right hand of this sponsor, or “ friend of the bride- 
groom,” is tied with the right hand of the husband.t 
‘The priest then offers an address, quite unconnected 
with religion; for marriage is regarded as a very trifling 
matter, entirely of worldly institution—a thing of no 
moment; and the transaction is generally over in a 
~quarter of an hour. The parties then go away, and 
the day is spent in merriment. When the ceremony 


* Bee the Book of Ruth, ili. iv. also the writings of Durckhardt, Lane, 
Burder, Maltby, Wilkinson, and Taylor. 
¥ John, ih. 29, 





THE HAREM!—sCRIPTURE ILLUSTRATIONS. 225 


of a wedding is ended, the new married pair do not 
retire together, but the bridegroom goes to the masque 
to pray, as usual, and the bride is taken whence she 
came. ‘The husband then gives a dinner to his friends, 
but he is not obliged to be present himself, He goes 
at eight o’clock at night, to fetch his wife ; he finds her 
attired in her best, supported on each side by females. 
To each of these he makes a present, and also one to 
his wife, to induce ber to lift her veil.* The at- 
tendants retire and leave them together. If his blush- 
ing spouse has been married before, he does not again 
quit her, but she is conducted to his house in greater 
or less state; but if she be still a virgin, he entrusts 
her to the care of her mother, until the expiration of 
seven days, during which time, she undergoes various 
ceremonies and ablutions, agreeably to the custom of 
the country : her husband is also admitted as a member 
of the “harem,” and he comes to see her as often as 
he will, but she is not delivered finally to him, until 
after seven days!{ In some instances, as the bride 
passes under the arch of her paternal roof, the friends 
shower a quantity of parahs or other coins upon her 
head, which are intended for her use. There is always 
a great deal of feasting, both before and after a 
wedding, and considerable expenses are indulged in 
by all classes, on such occasions. Many allusions are 
made to the subject in the Sacred Writings ; and the 


* Peal, xly. 14. Math. xxv. 6. 

+ Thave already said that the “harem ' comprises all the members of a 
family, mate ns well as female. ‘These, in Porsia, take the name of * Purdsh 
Nishoens,""—Litorully, “aitters behind tho curtain,"—for the poorest man has 
hile harem, and if he potsont bat a aingle room to live in, it is divided Into 
two parts by a curtain, if he can niford nothing better ; no that those who visit 
the male portion of the fainily, do not interfere with the females. 

+ In some parts, expecially among the Druser, these ceremonies are per= 
formed before marringe. 

you. 1. Q 





226 THE “UPPER ROOMS’ AT FEASTS! 


high estimation in which wedding-feasts were held in 
former days, is there conspicuously set forth. Our 
Saviour himself speaks of it, and by personally at- 
tending one of these convivial meetings, not only 
sanctioned the ordinance of matrimony, but taught us 
that it is possible to be religious without being austere.* 
Our Lord is also described as being married to the 
Church, and in the course of His ministry upon earth, 
reproves the Pharisees and others, by reminding them 
of the established customs of the Jews. ‘ When - 
thou art bidden of any man to a wedding, sit not 
down in the highest room,” &c.} This refers to the 
nature of the entertainment. The terraces and the 
upper rooms of Oriental dwellings are always the most 
agreeable, and are, of course, the most prized, as the 
people love to enjoy a fine prospect in the open air; 
thus, the houses are built with courts, and there is 
generally a flight of stone steps leading from them up 
the face of the building to the roof, on that account. 
At festive meetings these apartments are usually given 
up to the “most worthy,” and in the present day, 
when persons open their doors to a great number of 
people, even to strangers, in testimony of their joy, it 
would be thought very presumptuous if any one of the 
guests, unasked, selected one of the “ upper rooms.’* 
Europeans should bear in mind that in the East, there 
is not the same free intercourse which we are ac- 
customed to; the females are placed where they can 
enjoy their privacy with their children, and yet take a 
part in the hilarity of the meeting; moreover, they 
sometimes remain several days in the house, and must 
be taken care of.t Again, it is usual, at least among 
# ohm Uh 1.—Gab. ¥, B1— 1 Pete Iv. 9, 
4 Luke xiv. 7=10, 4 Judges xiv. 12, 





‘WEDDING GARMENTS" —CROWNS—THE BIBLE. 227 


the rich, for changes of linen to be placed at the dis- 
posal of all the guests, as also robes of honour, or as 
we read, “wedding garments.” Great families are 
generally provided with a supply of these; and it 
would be thought a premeditated affront, if any one, 
knowing the custom, presumed to appear without one, 
The parable referred to in St. Matthew and St. Luke, 
is therefore easily understood.* The ornaments worn 
by females at a wedding do not differ much from those 
which are prized at other times. They consist of 
bracelets and rings, and embroidery in gold and silver 
tissue, more or less enriched with precious stones. 
The bride is generally crowned with a crown of em- 
bossed thread, and flowers—those who cannot afford 
more costly materials, introduce shells, beads, or pieces 
of gold coin—and the crown is preserved through life, 
to be used again on the solemn oceasion of their death, 
when, as I have said, the corpse is decorated with 
flowers, perfumed, and crowned with a garland. All 
this is in direct confirmation of what we read in the 
Bible, and we cannot move a step in these countries, 
without being reminded of events which are there 
recorded. The marked favour of the Almighty to 
the people of Zion is admirably illustrated by Ezekiel, 
who speaks of the Holy City as of a female whose 
renown went forth among the heathen for her exceeding 
beauty and prosperity; and he describes her as one 
that was bedecked with ornaments, girded about the 
loins with fine linen and. silk, anointed with oil, 
having bracelets upon her hands, ear-rings in her ears, 
“a jewel on her forehead, and a beautiful crown upon 
her head."{ The Royal Psalmist has, in like manner, 
* Math. xxii, 11—Luke xiv. a1, 
4 Baoklel xvi. 0 to 18 
Q2 





228 THE ARAD AND NUBIAN CHARACTER. 


compared the majesty and grace of Christ's kingdom 
to the comeliness and exquisite perfection of female 
beauty, as exhibited in the virgin daughters of princes, 
when attired in “raiment of needlework,” and in 
“ clothing of wrought gold,” whose garments “smell 
of myrrh, aloes, and cassis,” and who are “all 
glorious within,” and “full of purity and love."* 
‘There is, in general, a great difference between the 
conduct of a Nubian and an Arab, in the case of a 
woman proving unfaithful to her husband. The former 
proceeds immediately to violence against one or both 
parties ; the latter says only to the woman, “you have 
now broken the contract or covenant, and you are no 
longer my wife." He leaves her, or in other words, 
“casts off his shoe!” Of the jealous disposition and 
wrath of a Nubian, in reference to love affairs, we had 
a very fair specimen during our journey. It so hap- 
pened, that when we were travelling in Upper Egypt, 
our crew were all Nubians, and the Reis had his 
wife on board. She was an Arab, and had formerly 
been the wife of the Reis of another Cand'gia, 
then in the service of two French gentlemen whom we 
met at Thebes, One night, a violent affray ensued 
between the two men, which might have terminated 
very seriously, but for the interference of the by- 
standers. It seems that the former husband ventured 
to speak with his “old acquaintance,” which being 
perceived by the Nubian, so excited his jealousy, that 
his countenance instantly betrayed the inward feelings 
of the man; and although really timid, his eye flashed, 
he knit his brow, and cast towards his antagonist a 
* Praim xlv. ‘There are many other similar passages to these, ‘The sweetness 
and harmony of nature aro contiounlly referred to in glowing terms ; and in 


Bsstern cllines, It Is still tho custom of the rich to fumigute the apartments 
‘with highly fragrant and expensive gums. 





A RENCONTRE—OPPROBRIOUS EPITHETS, 229 


look of the most deadly rage; after a few words, he 
suddenly drew forth a knife (such as the Nubians 
usually carry under the sleeve), and rushing upon him, 
aimed a savage blow at his throat, which was luckily 
prevented by one of the Arab crew, who received a 
slight wound in the arm, and by the Reis stepping a 
pace backward at the moment; but, quick as lightning, 
catching up another knife which accidentally lay in the 
way, he was proceeding, in his turn, to attack the 
Nubian, or rather perhaps to act on the defensive, 
when they were both restrained by the interposition of 
the respective crews. The battle then became general, 
and as usual, furious, at least to all appearance; for 
any one unaccustomed to such things, would have sup- 
posed that nothing short of a few cut throats or broken 
heads would have been the issue of it. But those 
who understand the character of these people, can 
coolly stand by as we did, and look on, to their infinite 
amusement; that is, as soon as the two principal 
actors in the seene were disarmed, which they speedily 
were, by their respective friends. 

‘The battle, though fierce, gradually subsided, and no 
deeper wounds were inflicted than could be felt by a 
sensitive reputation, save and except a few scratches, 
which I observed, were visible after the combat, on the 
dark and dusty visages of the party. It was a most 
ridiculous exhibition certainly : all tongues were going 
at once, each man abusing his neighbour, and heaping 
upon him the most insulting epithets which he could 
coin for the occasion ; and as to oaths, no man in this 
country, has an idea of the malicious and disgusting 
allusions expressed by these people towards each other.* 


* They do not differ from the exclamations to which, we are told, the Por- 
clans give utterance during thelr paroxysms of rage. Many of them ure too 





230 = NATIVE ELOQUENCE—THE SAIS ARANS. 


It is the finest fun in the world to see two Arabs 
fight. After a few high words, the tearing of turbans 
begins, and the combatants are speedily left under bare 
poles: they kick, and bite, and scratch, rave, and 
gnash their teeth, but seldom let blood, unless from 
the region of the olfactories; and it does not often 
happen that they do one another any serious injury. 
Now and then, to his infinite chagrin, a man gets 
tipped into the Nile, amid the laughter and hooting of 
the by-standers: and this generally puts an end to 
the fray, as it cools the wrath of one of the dispu- 
tants, and convinces him of the superior power of his 
adversary, but no bad consequences ensue: an Arab 
is a sort of amphibious animal, and can live as well in 
the water, ason land. An affair of this sort affords the 
philologists a fine specimen of the beauties, and the 
harsh guttural accents of the language; the tongue of 
each gladiator, and of others near at hand, being 
industriously employed during the whole contest, 
The anatomist, too, and the artist, have a fine oppor- 
tunity of observing the development of the muscles, 
and the exquisite mechanism of the human form: for, 
to do them justice, the eye of man never beheld more 
athletic and better proportioned figures. The boat- 
men of the Nile often reminded me of the celebrated 
Grecian statues. But there is one peculiar feature in 


grow to ropeat: but T may quote the following as a specimen of tho more 
moderate! 


“«T have defiled his father’s grave."— He is the cub of a1 unsainted boast, 
whose carcase shall rot in tho noon-day stag te owls of te ai ete fight 
for hia blood!" “Cay thelr fathers burn! May thelr wit ahrivel up, and thelr 
livers drop!” “Whose cur art thon,—thon less than a dog's son "=!" ‘Thon 
withered ehip—thow parched rag—thou Deardlese old fool, that seort through 
crack in thy anderstanding,—thou Inmp of polluted clay,—thou accursed dog. 
‘with a smooth chin—thou unhaliowed slip of parchment, that dealeat in ini 
quity !~thou unclean spot,—thow issue of corruption that howlest among the 
toxnty—thou spawn of « dishonored mother” Sie—Fraser, Morier, de. 





CURTAIN LECTURES |—EMANCIPATION. 231 


these homely collisions of the Egyptian mobility : we 
do not see that the ladies take any acfive part in the 
fracas; they either pass quietly on their way, or stop 
to enjoy the fun: the utmost extent of their inter- 
ference, even when their sons or husbands are con- 
cerned, is a free and unrestrained indulgence in the 
harsh screechings of their vernacular idioms. For 
volubility of tongue, and richness of oratory, they 
may then challenge the whole world; and they con- 
sider that, on such occasions, the exercise of the powers 
of speech, with which they are so admirably gifted, is 
their peculiar province; but they do not mix in the 
quarrels of their liege lords and masters, like some of 
our Northern viragoes, or tear the hair and mutilate 
the visage of the unfortunate opponents of their will. 
Sometimes, for private misdemeanours, a man may 
have to “eat a large share of his wife's slipper,” that 
is to say, she may endeavour to impress upon him the 
undeniable force of her doctrine, by arguments which 
may afford him sufficient proof of her earnestness in 
the cause, and illustrate the ardour of her affection. 
These are, however, the transactions of the harem, and 
as they occur “behind the curtain,” as the Persians 
say, the world is not presumed to know any thing 
about them. It may so happen, that instead of inter- 
posing in his behalf, she may not be sorry to see her 
*“gude man” publicly chastised: and in some cases, it 
might not subject the individual to any very great 
inconvenience, if even the contending parties Killed 
each other, as she might possibly thereby get rid of 
a perverse tyrant, or of a disagreeable companion, 
without having to wait out the full time of the con- 
tract; and as a lengthened mourning is uncalled for, 
the dark eyes of the “inconsolable fond one,” beaming 





232 VIRTUE—THE NEGLECTED wirE—HomE ! 


with greater loveliness through tears, may immediately 
commence a fresh look-out, or, throwing herself into 
the despairing arms of a more favored object, she may 
emerge from the dull monotony of widowhood, at the 
expiration of the prescribed period of * seven months 
and ten days!” But to be serious, I firmly believe 
that there is more domestic happiness among these 
people than we are apt to give them credit for: their 
manners are natural, and their wants comparatively 
few; and were we to investigate the fact with the 
impartiality it deserves, I fancy we might even profit 
by their example. It is a great mistake to suppose 
that virtue is a plant of such rare growth, that it is 
indigenous only in Europe; and we greatly err, if we 
imagine that it is cultivated no where but in the tem- 
perate zone, or that its excellence is unappreciated in 
Egypt, or within the tropics. 

Tn many parts of Europe, especially in capital cities, 
the state of society is very artificial: and I confess 
that in the majority of cases, where there is any 
blame, I should be inclined to lean towards the female 
sex; for I much fear that they have oftener cause to 
complain of us than we have of them, If an indivi- 
dual who has been tenderly brought up, finds herself 
slighted or neglected, being thrown upon her own 
resources, day after day, whilst her husband, in quest 
of new pleasures, is tempted to seek the society of 
others, she cannot suppose that he has much regard 
for her; and if, after a time, being so constantly left to 
while away the dull, solitary hours, he should become 
indifferent to her, or she should be induced to look 
elsewhere for that comfort which she is denied at 
home, it is hardly to be wondered at, Nevertheless, 
however harsh the treatment she may have received, 





LOVE AND DUTY—FEMALE DEGRADATION. 233 


there is no conduct that would justify a guilty retalia- 
tion. ‘ Suspicion always shakes confidence; and the 
best way to make a woman virtuous is to convince her 
that she is thought so." Where virtue is duly appre- 
ciated, and meets with a corresponding return of 
affection, there is no woman I believe, who would not 
do honor to her husband: but if the laws of society 
are habitually disregarded, and the ties of domestic 
love, instead of being respected, are treated with a 
sneer,—if virtue is not appreciated by the men, but set 
at nought and despised as affectation and hypocrisy, 
because a few would have it so,—the men cannot 
surely be surprised, if by degrees the softer sex, having 
no longer any delicacy of character to support, should 
unconsciously lay aside a large proportion of that 
modesty of demeanour, and amiable sensibility, which 
constitute their brightest ornaments, and so peculiarly 
fit them for the station which they are destined to fill. 
Women, in the East, are differently brought up from 
those in the North; their education teaches them to 
submit implicitly to the will of their husband, and they 
expect to become the slaves of his passions, rather 
than the comfort and companions of his days: they 
are not even allowed to sit at meat with him, but they 
wait constantly upon him, wash his feet, anoint and 
perfume his body, dance before him, and their only 
study is, how they may make themselves aceeptable to 
him. I do not say that they have nothing in return 
for this, for, generally speaking, they are treated well, 
and are cheerful and happy, strange as it may seem : 
their happiness is, however, of the negative kind ; what 
they never knew they do not miss; and their minds 
have been prepared for such a state of existence from 
their childhood: nevertheless they are not so immured 
3 





234 MUSSULMAUN ESTIMATION OF WOMEN. 


as people in other countries sometimes imagine ; they 
walk out attended or not, according to their rank and 
states they go to the bath, and visit each other; but they 
are strangers to the society of the other sex; they 
agree very well together, and strive to contribute to 
each other's comfort, by such means as are in their 
power; they are fond of embroidering, and many 
specimens of their exquisite skill in this department, 
are already before the world, ‘They are neither taught 
to read nor write, and were it not for the fondness they 
bear their children, and their various domestic duties 
in which they excel, they would lead but a monotonous 
sort of life. The wives of the rich are not at all discon- 
certed, should their husband take to himself one or 
two of his slaves or bond-women ; it is what they 
expect, and only such as they consider him entitled to 
do, nor do they show any animosity towards these 
slaves in consequence of the preference they may have 
enjoyed, but set themselves rather to invent new arts 
by which they may at least enjoy a full proportion of 
their master's favor: but it never enters their head for 
an instant, that Nature intended man should restrict 
himself to one wife! Mussulmauns have no idea that 
women are to appear in Paradise, except as the 
fayored and exquisitely formed Houris, the long anti- 
cipated reward of the faithful, whose bright eyes have 
been their beacon through life, and the thought of 
whom has cheered their drooping spirits in battle, and 
in the hour of need: but they believe that the exist- 
ence of women upon earth is of the most degraded 
kind, that they are sent only to minister to dheir will, 
and to contribute to ¢heir happiness; they view them, not 
as responsible agents, but as beings whose existence is 
necessary to the continuance of the species, as an 
8 





FIRMAUNS OF THE SCHEIKH UL ISLAM, 235 


essential part therefore of the great system of the 
universe, like any one of the inferior animals: that 
they are irresponsible for what they do, that they are 
mere machines, and haying no soul, that they are 
neither worthy to eat nor drink with a man, nor to 
enter a mosque! If they are unfaithful, the jealousy 
and wrath of their husband or keeper are excited, and 
they are punished, not from any sense of sin committed, 
or from any feeling of dishonour either in regard to him- 
self or his family, nor from any laudable motive what- 
soever, but from mere animal rage at the galling 
thought of intrusion from one of his own sex.* 


‘Two firmauns have lately been promulgated by the Schefkh ul Eslam, which, it 
‘fs sald, have created gevat discontent among the fair Inhabitants of the TuPkiah 
hharems, Tho firvt is somewhat tothe following aff¥ot:—* Whereas It has come 
to the knowledge of those whose duty it is to watch over the morale of the 
faithful, and to goo that none shall prosumo to tranagrest proscribed rules, thnt 
certain women of wablushing boldness and frivolous demeanour have, i imita- 
tion of those daughters of burnt mothers, the she Kiaflrs of Pera, permitted 
thelr noses, and even thelr lips, to be exposed! to the wanton gaze of passengers: 
itis enjoined, in the name of the Most Merciful, the Recompenser of ll virtue, 
that the wives and daughters of the faithfal shall exutionsly abstain from all 
‘such indeceneles, and that they shall cnrofully wrap thelr “ yachmocks" (veils) 
round thelr faces, in auch mannet as to conceal their lips and noses, and only 
Jeaye sufficient aperture for the purpore of eeoing that they do not defilo thom= 
selvos by coming in contact with any maleiniidels, Let them attend to this, or 
It will be the worse for them.” The second fs silt more wtringent, and not alto 
gether exempt from a plece of scandal; it ls couched more or less in these 
torms:—"* Allah is great and omnipotent, and hus placed limits to all things. 
Te being @ matter of public notoriety thit the infidel traders of Pora mart 
Increased in number, and stored thelr shops with divers tempting articles, 
offspring of Sotan’s inventions, whereby the wives and handinuids of the ‘the 
fal ure excited to acts of most objectionable extravagance, thereby injuring thelr 
domestle felicity, and entailing great pecuniary inflictions upom their husbands 
‘and lords ; italso being observed that, not coutent with filing their shops with 
those luring creations of Hblis, the aforesaid broeders af mischief place behind 
tholr counters youths of comely appenranes, hoping strongly to further iaceenlirsis 
fand intoxicate the sensos of true believing women, and thene 
their souls ax well as their purses, it te consequently ordained, in 
the Avenger of all incongruitios, that caution and discretion be Suculeated by 
husbands and male relatives, and that the pernicious practice of frequenthig 
these infidel traps of destruction be put an end to. Let this serve as a warning, 
or all partion will eat considerable dirt In this world nd in the next.” 





236 «© RAMANIEH—MARAUDERS AT MIDNIGHT. 


Having bade adieu to the unfortunate “ Gh’awazee,”” 
or “ Alméh ” of classic notoriety, if such these wretched 
women may be called, we proceeded in the stillness of the 
evening, and in a short time, moored for the night, to the 
banks of Rahmanieh, famous as a military station at the 
mouth of the canal of Alexandria. Here we were 
sadly annoyed by the mosquitoes and the rats. Many 
of the latter were as large as cats, and not casily 
intimidated. 1 was disturbed in the middle of the 
night, by something pulling at the sleeve of my shirt ; 
and on starting up, discovered—surely the “great-grand- 
father of all the rats,""—just at the edge of the divan! 
but instead of being alarmed at the suddenness of my 
movement, he slowly retired to the door, where, with 
two of his marauding companions, perched upon their 
hind legs, 4 la kangaroo, he sat, with all the impudence 
imaginable, and looked at me. Luckily for him I had 
nothing within reach but my slippers, or rather slipper, 
for one of them was half devoured, and it was not 
until I bad saluted the rascal with it, smartly upon the 
head, and that I was fairly upon my knees, that either 
of the vagabonds began to beat a retreat. Bradford 
awoke in the scuffle, and wondered what I was at, 
especially when, having crept upon all fours to the 
door of the Cand’gia, he beheld me chasing the rats, 
“fer ilamain :” for finding that the enemy only retired 
a few paces to reconnoitre, I seized hold of a sword- 
stick, and had nearly taken a prisoner, when I stumbled 
over one of the crew, who, spite o’ the rats, and war's 
alarms, lay snoring upon the deck, and I measured my 
length at his side, It was just at this moment that 
Bradford made his appearance, anticipating that the 
conflict in which I was engaged, was of a far more 
serious nature than a midnight encounter with vermin! 





MANGLED REMAINS !|—siTE oF “Honus.” 237 


Hostilities having ceased, I was in the act of returning 
to my couch, when I was surprised to see an immense 
fellow, though not so large as the other three, snugly 
ensconced under a loose coil of rope, and I was pro- 
ceeding to renew the engagement, but the moment I 
stirred in that direction, he sprung forward, ran a few 
paces, and made but one bound across the deck into 
the water. In the morning, we discovered that they 
had made away with the candle out of the lantern, 
and besides the daring attack upon my robe de nuit, 
and the mangled remains of one of my best papous- 
ches,* which sufficiently marked the nature of their 
intent, that they had fairly eaten one of the legs of 
Bradford's unmentionables: and when he held the 
article up, it literally hung in ribbons! ‘The encroach- 
ments of these animals are by no means uncommon on 
the Nile, when moored to the banks in the neighbour- 
hood of a village, where they usually swarm to such an 
extent, that we no longer wonder at the multiplicity of 
cats: these animals being in high repute among the 
‘Turks and Arabs: and they are very superstitious 
about them, though, strange to say, dogs are regarded 
as unclean beasts, and despised. 

There is nothing particular in the appearance of 
Rahmanieh, and we proceeded, at an early hour, to 
ascend the Nile. A little to the south of the town, 
is supposed to have been once the famous city of Ho- 
rus, the Hermopolis Parva of the Greeks,—Ptiminhor 
of the Copts: the site is now occupied by the village 
of Damanhtir-el-Wohsh. Near this spot, on the 
opposite side of the river, is the village of Sii-cl- 
Had'jar, the supposed site of the celebrated Sais, the 
ancient metropolis of the Delta. It has been alluded 


* Teed slippers, 





238 RUINS OF “SAIS"—ANCIENT FESTIVALS. 


to by Drs. Clarke and Richardson. But although 
antiquities of various kinds have frequently been dug 
up, no absolute proof has yet been furnished that this 
is the actual site of Sais,—and I believe the excava- 
tions have not been made to such an extent as perhaps 
they deserve to be: for the buildings of this distin- 
guished capital were so extensive and colossal, that 
there remains still, no doubt, much to be discoyered. 
It is not my purpose to follow out this subject. I shall 
merely remark, that Sais ranked among the most im- 
portant cities of ancient Egypt. There was a magnifi- 
cent temple there, dedicated to Neith or Minerva, and 
a wonderful monolithic shrine, which was so large, that 
it occupied. “2000 men for three years,” in bringing it 
down from the quarries at Elephantina, a distance of 
about 600 miles. There were many other astonishing 
works carried on at Sais, but of which im the present 
day, we have no relic: it is more than probable that 
some of them are imbedded in the sand.* 

Nothing particular occurred during the next two 
days that we were embarked on the Nile; the weather 
still continued fine, and the wind being westerly, the 
atmosphere was beautifully clear and refreshing. We 
passed numerous populous villages, whose charac- 
teristics were poverty and filth, disease, naked children, 
blindness, and dogs! The heavens were brilliantly 
illuminated at night, and the young, pale, silvery moon 
looked placidly upon us, reposing in a cloudless sky. 
The boatmen rigidly kept the fast of “ Rhamad’han,” 
nor did we tempt them to eat or drink until after sun- 
set: they were always merry, and sang their fayourite 

* see Dr. Clarke's Travels, volev. p. 288—208 The three principal fetivals, 


eceonting to Herodotus, were those held at Bobastis, in honour of Diana ; 
those of Basiris in honour of Isis ; and those of Sais In honour of Neith.” 





ARAB BOAT SONGS—CHAPPOWS OF THE NILE, 239 


boat songs, in which the praise of their employers was 
carefully remembered: they seemed to be in good 
humour with themselves and others, and it was amusing 
to see with what alacrity they sprung from the Cand’gia 
into the water at intervals, and swam ashore to pilfer 
the Indian corn or the sugar-cane, which they gathered 
without reserve, although they were chased by the 
Pascha’s people :—as expeditiously regaining the boat, 
the sails were instantly turned to the wind; then, 
seizing the oars, they would set up a well-known ery or 
song of exultation, and be out of sight in no time. 
At first, I could not understand the meaning of this ; 
and when they all with one consent, plunged into the 
river and deserted us, I was inclined to be angry; but 
upon reflection, I could not blame them: there is a 
great deal to be said in palliation of such pilfering. 
Would any one punish a farmer's boy, or the way-side 
traveller in England, because he stepped into a turnip- 
field or a gentleman’s orchard, and satisfied the cravings 
of hunger, when toiling beneath the noon-day sun? 
If not, surely we may excuse the Egyptians, if, whilst 
labouring in their vocation, they are tempted to do 
likewise: since, by helping themselves to a little re- 
freshing cane, which is not strictly theirs, they do but 
plunder the universal monopolizer of the land, who 
will neither give nor sell it them, but withholds from 
every man the just reward of his labour, and as we 
have seen, compels the poor to relieve him of his 
mouldly stores! These little exploits afforded the 
erew abundant matter for conversation and amuse- 
ment; their energies increased as they proceeded, and 
the success of their marauding expeditions considerably 
enhanced their good humour, The river continued 
to wind its way through a sandy plain; but there was 





240 NIKLEH —AMRUS—NADIR—BAMIREH CANAL. 


comparatively little sign of cultivation on the western 
banks: a few palm-trees here and there presented 
themselves, and there was some “ D'hourra,” but 
nothing more. The view to the eastward was much 
more interesting, although from the flatness of the 
land, it was extremely limited. Tobacco, corn, sugar- 
cane, the cotton plant, dates and rice, and the con- 
stantly creeking Persian wheels, turned by oxen for the 
irrigation of the land, furnished altogether a rich and 
pleasing prospect, especially as in this unusually 
favoured season, Providence had blessed Egypt, and 
the crops brought forth so abundantly.‘ Maashes 
and *D'jerms”* laden with goods, slowly descended 
the Nile, their broadsides to the current; for when 
there is much wind, the sails are rendered of little use, 
and these heavy craft are suffered to float down with 
the stream at the rate of two miles an hour, or perbaps 
not that. We passed the towns of Nikléh, Amris, 
and Nadir (where we moored for the night), and 
several smaller villages ; we saw a great many cranes 
on the small sand islands, and now and then some 
pelicans. ‘Towards evening, the frogs began as usual 
to be very clamorous; and it is truly astonishing at 
what a distance their hoarse croaking may be heard. 
Nearly opposite to Amrés, the Bahireh canal forms 
the communication between the Lake Mareotis and 
the river Nile; and about five or six hours further 
south, near a place called “ Alkam,” a canal or river 
which may be considered a branch of the Nile, and 
which runs parallel with it in its course from the 
Said, or Upper Egypt, again unites with the parent 
stream. Alkam is nearly opposite to Nadir, and 
the river in question has once been of more im- 
+ ‘The barges of the Nile, differing only in size, 





THE MOYE SOUHADJ, OR BAHR Youssourr, 241 


portance than it is at present; but it still contributes 
greatly to the comfort and well-being of the inhabi- 
tants of the towns through which it passes. It is 
known by various names in its course; but these all 
denote one and the same stream. It may be said to 
commence at the town of Haod, on the left bank of 
the Nile, not a great way from Dendera; it soon after 
flows through Farshoat, Girgéh the former capital of 
Upper Egypt, Souhadj and Sioat, the present capital 
of Upper Egypt, to Manfalofit, and further to a place 
called “ Tarat Es Sheriff,” where there are some ex- 
tensive sugar plantations. Thus far, the stream is 
designated the “ Moyé Souhadj,” i e. the “ Canal, 
or Water of Souhadj.” At Tarfit Es Sheriff, the 
canal takes the name of the “ Bahr Yousso(fi,”” the 
“river of Joseph,” and it is also called * El Asarah,”” 
andthe ‘Canal of the Pyramids.” It passes through 
a number of villages, and sends off a branch to the 
Faiotm, at the town of Ilaotm, near Beni Souef, on 
the Nile; and another to the Nile itself; soon after 
which, it flows at the base of a pyramid. The valley 
of the Nile then becoming narrower, the mountains 
which bound it on the west taking a north-casterly 
direction, the Bahr Youssodff between’ this spot and 
Cairo, approaches the great river, and flowing nearly 
along its banks, proceeds through the entire district of 
the Pyramids, the chief of which are the Pyramids of 
Dahshotr, Sakkarah, Abousir, and D'gizeh, and may 
thus be said to traverse the supposed site of the once 
great city of Memphis, of which not a vestige now re- 
mains. ‘The canal then verging to the north-west, 
accompanies the Rosetta branch of the Nile by 
Wardan, and Terranéh, to Alkam, where the two 
unite. The canal is, at ordinary times, very incon- 
VOL. 1. x 





242 ENCROACHMENT OF THE DESERT—PAPYRts. 


siderable; and at certain seasons, very much con- 
tracted in its dimensions; but there is no doubt 
that if its bed were properly attended to, it might be 
rendered much more useful than it now is. It is only 
the neglect arising from the want of encouragement 
to industry, that has permitted the encroachment of the 
desert, and the consequent obliteration of the canals 
and rivers, the once numerous tributary streams of 
Egypt. The same neglect exists still in regard to 
agriculture, in very many parts, as heretofore, for 
there is a great deal of land which is regarded as 
desert, which is capable of cultivation, being merely a 
parched soil, and requiring water and labour only to 
cause it to bring forth an hundred fold; but as long as 
the people work by slavish compulsion, and are al- 
lowed to derive no benefit from the harvest, there is 
nothing to incite them to improve the tillage of their 
country, to recover the bad soil, or to remedy the 
waste, and it is not to be supposed that they would feel 
an interest in the welfare of their ruler, or evince the 
slightest zeal in his cause. The words of Isaiah have 
been fulfilled again and again, in times past ; and we 
are once more reminded of them in the present day. 
The Egyptians have indeed been given over “ into the 
hand of a crucl lord;” and fierce kings have long 
ruled over them; the waters ‘have failed,” and the 
rivers have been “waste and dried up,” or “ turned 
away.” ‘The reeds and flags have withered, and as was 
peotey foretold, the “paper reeds by the brooks, 
y the mouth of the brooks, and every thing sown by 
the brooks,” have also withered, and are no more 
seen ;* for the papyrus of which the paper was made, 
is only to be met with in the Delta, and that but 


* Yealah, xix, 4, 5, 6,7. 





THE PROPHECIES OF I8AIAH—CANALS, 243 


sparingly, As to brooks or other streams, they would 
now be looked for in vain; and were it not that the 
Nile regularly overflows its banks, and once a-year in- 
undates the country, the land would not be habitable. 
When we speak of the encroachment of the desert, 
we should keep in mind that it is to be attributed, in 
some degree, to the laziness of man. We passed the 
night at Nadir. The heavens were studded with stars, 
and the new moon shone bright: the atmosphere was 
beautifully clear, and there was not a cloud to be seen 
in any direction ; yet the dew fell thickly, and a short 
time after sun-set, we began to find it very damp and 
chill. We can have but a poor idea of the extent to 
which this country was formerly subdivided by canals. 
The canal of Menodf, leading to the town of that 
name, was even recently very considerable ; and its 
mouth was only closed in 1807, by order of the Pascha, 
as it was found to interfere with the rising of the 
waters in other parts; for the French engineers dis- 
covered, that throughout the Delta, there is an inclina- 
tion to the western branch, and that it is therefore 
necessary to keep the water up as much as possible. 
Some miles to the westward, in the neighbourhood of 
the great natron lakes, there are indications of a once 
fertile country ; some poor remains of habitations are 
still to be seen, but they are the isolated mementos of 
other days: every thing is now parched and barren, 
We did not visit Menoff; but Sir Fred. Henniker, 
who did, describes it as a large village, abounding in 
mounds of broken pottery and rubbish, and altogether 
destitute of ancient buildings, “except that in a 
mos’que, are some columns of cypoline and granite.”* 
It is considered one of the most fertile and healthy 
* 4 Notes on Pant pat. 
R 





244 “ BAIN-RI-BAKKARAH”—THE NATRON LAKES. 


spots in Egypt, and is about twenty-five miles 
from the bifurcation of the river. On the left bank, 
about twenty-seven miles from the point or head of the 
Delta, where is situated the town of  Bain-el-Bak- 
karah,” or, as it has been interpreted, “the cow's 
belly,” is Terranéh, which contains many buildings of 
unburned brick, interspersed with heaps of rubbish and 
some sculptured fragments, which sufficiently mark 
its present degenerated condition. It is now only im- 
portant on account of its contiguity to the Natron 


to farm the lakes, just as Mohammed Ali allowed the 
customs to be farmed in later times; for, by degrees, 
he got the trade into his own hands, and ultimately, it 
was granted to him to receive the whole of the produce, 
on paying a certain sum to the officers, who, as in 
other matters, were generally open to bribery, and had 
contrived to get absolute authority there. But some 
idea may be formed of the extensive operations carried 
on, by the fact, that one year, the duty paid to the 

ian government, amounted to no less a sum 
than 6000/. sterling ! 





CHAPTER VIII. 


JOURNEY PROM BAKKARAH TO BOULAC.——-THE DELTA. 
—THE PYRAMIDS.— OBJECTS OF NATURAL HISTORY. 
—THE MAMLOKS,—THE CAMPAIGNS OF NAPOLEON, 
HIS SUCCESS, AND DEFEAT. 


Tue course of the Nile, from its mouth to Terranth, 
lies as nearly as possible N. W. and 8. E., and 


the distance between Damietta and Rischid, in a 
direct line, is about twenty-seven leagues. The con- 
sideration of the canals which cut and subdivide the 
Delta, is one of the greatest possible interest, whether 
we regard them as the source of every good, the 
Delta being the most productive part of Egypt, or 
speak of them in reference to the ancient condition 
of the country. In tracing their former course and 
extent, we are led to the discovery of the original 
sites of some of the most important towns, and the 
subject, if properly investigated, may hereafter enable 
us to elucidate many points of interest. We may de- 
pend upon it, there is a rich fund of information at 
present concealed among the buried ruins of the 
Delta. It would be well worth the while of any en- 
terprising traveller to deyote himself to the study of 
this district, but he should be a person of superior 
classical attainments, ardour, and perseverance, and 





246 EGYPTIAN REGEARCHES—THE TRUE NILE. 


one to whom neither time nor money is an object. 
When I speak of the Delta, perhaps I ought rather to 
say, Lower Egypt, which includes the districts adjoin- 
ing ; for it is deeply associated with the history of our 
religion, and with scenes described in the Old Testa- 
ment. I wish I could instil into the mind of some 
suitable person an enthusiastic spirit for the enquiry. 
T never yet met with an individual who had resided in 
this Iand of mysteries, who did not leave it with re- 
gret; and the best informed travellers have always ac- 
knowledged that they felt an interest in Egypt whieh 
no other country could excite. 

Afier quitting Bakkarah, the pomt at which the 
Nile divides, and which, from its convenient situation, 
must have been most important as a place of com- 
merce, to the ancient Egyptians, the distance is but 
short to Cairo. There are no towns on either of the 
banks worth mentioning ; nor docs the appearance of 
the land materially differ. It is still fat, and if any 
thing, less fertile, particularly on the western side, the 
great Libyan waste approaching nearly to the water: 
the scenery is therefore chiefly interesting from as- 
sociation of idea, and from the sudden appearance of 
the Pyramids, rising in the distance, like immense 
tumuli, from the midst of the wilderness; and though 
when viewed through the oscillating haze of the in- 
tervening desert, most people are mistaken as to their 
magnitude, and exclaim after the first impulse is over, 
«What! are those the pyramids ?"—they really do 
surpass everything which the mind has conceived con- 
cerning them, notwithstanding it has been raised to an 
extraordinary pitch by all that we have read or heard, 
either during the period of infancy, when we lent a 
willing ear to the marvellous exaggerations of nursery 


THE PYRAMIDS IN SIGHT! 247 


tales, or since, up to the very moment that we are first 
permitted to behold them, under all the advantages 
perhaps of a cultivated taste and an enlightened un- 
derstanding. It is not easy to convey to others a just 
idea of the sensation that is experienced by the trayel- 
ler when he is first told that the Pyramids are in sight. 
All, with one accord, rush forward to see them! 
Neyer, perhaps, did the announcement of inanimate 
objects create such a general thrill throughout the 
body, such an enthusiastic glow, such energetic mental 
excitement, as that of these gigantic monuments of 
antiquity. The reason is, that, stupendous as they 
are, nothing is actually known of their origin; no 
document that has been handed down to us, furnishes 
satisfactory evidence concerning them ; they have been 
attributed to. various individuals, and various purposes 
and uses have been assigned to them. It is, probable 
that the real truth may long remain veiled in obscurity, 
and however plausible, and supported by facts or in+ 
ductive reasoning, the arguments advanced, there will 
still be difficulties to overcome, doubts will continue 
to be raised, and disputations to be held. Hyery one 
will have his own opinion; for as they are a sealed 
book, and there is no oracle to consult, their history 
and object must ever be open to conjecture, until we 
have fresh data to go upon ; and none will be able to 
set us right, until the study of the hieroglyphics or the 
discovery of future relics shall enlighten us. In the 
present day we are accustomed to reason only upon 
facts, and not to seek facts to confirm our reasoning ; 
and although we do not require a basis for our argu- 
ment as broad as the foundation of the Pyramids them- 
selves, we nevertheless do require something as tan- 
gible, and likely to be as firm and as lasting; but that 





ell 


248 THOUGHTS AND IMPRESSIONS ON 


the time will come when we shall be able to say some- 
thing more definite about them, is at least probable. 1 
have already stated my conviction that there remains 
as much to be unfolded to us respecting Egypt and its 
antiquities, as we have hitherto been put in possession 
of. Works of such astonishing magnitude as the 
Pyramids, must have been undertaken at an enormous 
expense, even in that day, supposing labour to haye 
cost nothing: they were evidently intended for some 
important religious purpose, and designed to excite 
the awe and veneration of the people. A similar 
effect was produced in each successive generation, 
Jong after the mighty projectors of them had passed 
away from the earth, and mingled with their native 
dust: they have called forth the wonder of Eastern 
nations, and of all who ever saw them or held com- 
munication with the country; they have been the talk 
of the whole world, and their influence continues to 
be felt in the present day. They have resisted every 
attempt that has been made to remove them; and it 
would seem that they are destined to remain to the 
end of time, as monuments to commemorate the days 
of Noah and his progenitors. We may easily con- 
ceive that much would be written about them at vari- 
‘ous periods, by the Greeks and Romans, Copts, and 
Egyptians, if not by Oriental nations generally. Let 
us then hope that some document may have escaped 
the general wreck of the Alexandrian manuscripts, and 
that it may one day come to hand. Even the con- 
vents in remote districts, may yield some clue to the 
subject, containing as they do, hoards of musty parch- 
ments and antiquated scrolls, of which nothing is 
known: the idea should, at all events, stimulate us to 
persevere in the investigation; and I trust that those 


PIRST BEHOLDING THE PYRAMIDS. 249 


especially, who hold authority in the land, will leave 
no stone unturned, until something bearing upon the 
question be discovered. Whatever time or money 
may be expended on excavations, the deciphering of 
tablets, or the interpreting of hieroglyphics, will then 
be repaid to us an hundred-fold. Whilst the present 
magoificent but mutilated remains demonstrate the 
former prosperous condition of the Eastern world, 
they remind us that to this source we are indebted for 
many of the blessings of civilized life. Some of the 
ancient prophecies have already been fulfilled in a 
wonderful manner: others are yet to come to pass; 
and when the proper time arrives, they will as« 
suredly be made manifest; for by the numerous 
changes which are daily taking place, it is easy to 
perceive, that the minds of men are unconsciously 
being prepared for the most important events, and 
that all things are working together for the accom- 
plishment of the great designs of Providence. 

The ecstacy which the traveller discovers when he 
Jirst gets a glimpse of the Pyramids, gradually sub- 
sides as he proceeds: there are few who do not ap- 
pear a little disappointed. At a distance, these gi- 
gantic monuments seem to be anything but what they 
really are ; and he is unwilling to believe, that they are 
worthy of being ranked among the celebrated “wonders 
of the world.” He will do well, however, to suspend 
his judgment until he has a more favorable opportunity 
of examining them. I propose, therefore, not to enter 
further upon the subject at present. 

In ascending this, the Rosetta branch of the Nile, 
we saw some yery beautiful birds, particularly those of 
the Ardea species of “ Gralle,” which are described as 
having cylindrical bills of various lengths, long stilt- 





250 THE CRANE, STORK, HERON, AND PELICAN. 


like legs, and for the most part, a long neck, and « 
short tail. They inhabit moist marshy districts; they 
feed on amphibia, fish, insects, and water-plants ; they 
build on the ground, or among reeds, and are valuable 
on account of the delicate flavour of their flesh and 
eggs. The Grus, or Crane, is somewhat of an ash 
colour, and is very commonly seen in the low countries 
of Europe. ‘The Ciconia, or Stork,* the Cicogne of 
the French, has a white plumage, but pink or red legs, 
and beak, It, too, is to be found in the more tempe- 
rate parts of the old world; but England bas been so 
much drained, that except here and there in the low 
countries, very few are now to be seen. In Holland, 
however, they are very common. The Stork is a bird 
of passage, and retires generally to the desert of 
Africa or Arabia in the winter, where it is sure to find a 
good reception, and a comfortable home, It lives, not 
only on amphibia, but often destroys useful animals, 
young birds to wit— particularly partridges; and it 
frequently carries away linen, thread, &c., to line its 
nest. The Heron is similar in its habits, and is very 
destructive to fish; but it builds in lofty trees, and on 
the tops of houses; it is so far domesticated, and by 
the people of the East is held sacred: so much so, 
that he who is seen to shoot one, stands a very good 
chance of paying the penalty with his life, if the by- 
stander happen to be armed, which is more than 
probable. The body of the animal is generally of an 
ash colour, but bearing patches of black, particularly 
on the head and neck, and sometimes the tips of the 
wings. The Pelican, (Pelacanus Onoerotalus,) of 
which there is so fine a collection at the Surrey Zoolo- 


+ See an Interesting accomnt of the Stork In the Hanoverian Magazine, p00. 
1800, Also in the Penny Maguzine, No. 124, vol. ii,, with a skoteh. 





PROGRESS OF NAPOLEON IN EGYPT. 261 


gical Gardens, is met with in all parts of the world 
where the climete is warm, and the land low, Blu- 
menbach tells us it has its Greek name from its Ass-like 
voice, and its German name (Kropfgans), from the 
enormous bag-like crop hanging from the lower man- 
dible, and so extensible as to be capable of containing 
“full twenty pounds of water.” 

Let us now for a moment, revert to the progress of 
Napoleon Buonaparte in Egypt, to which he had come 
with a strong maritime and land force, aided by Admi- 
ral Brueys, and Generals Kleber and Menou. ‘They 
effected a landing at the Marabout, and obtained pos- 
session of Alexandria, afler a severe contest, the loss 
being considerable on both sides. The ostensible 
motive of the expedition was the restitution of the 
legitimate influence of the Porte; but the real object 
was soon made manifest, and immediately opposed by 
the English, as we have already seen. After the sur- 
render of Alexandria, the French commenced the as- 
cent of the Nile, directing their attention to the 
capital. They formed two divisions, one of which 
proceeded by water, the other by the desert, with an 
understanding that they should coalesce at the town 
of Rabmaniech, Here they were met by the Mamlik 
Beys, who defended themselves and their country most 
valiantly ; but they were nevertheless unable to 
with the disciplined troops of France. The style of 
warfare of the Arabs and Turks is very different from 
that of Europeans, and admits of perhaps a greater 
display of individual skill and prowess ; inasmuch as it 
may rather be considered a system of skirmishing and 
single-handedness, than a regular engagement, the 
issue of which depends not a little, on the experience 
and wisdom of the general, and on his acquaintance 


252 SYSTEMS OF WARFARE CONTRASTED: 


with military tatics. But, I believe, there is quite as 
much blood-shed in the one case as in the other, and 
yietory almost invariably declares for discipline and 
regularity ; that is, in the open plain, for the forcing 
of a mountain-pass is quite a different thing, and at 
all times a hazardous and bold undertaking, the sue~ 
cess of which must depend chiefly on undaunted valour 
and physical strength. The sacrifice of life is always 
great on such occasions, and almost certain death 
awaits those whose thirst for “glory” leads them to 
make the first advance. Superior numbers have not 
unfrequently been put to flight by one daring act of 
intrepidity on the part of a few, which their enemies 
never for a moment contemplated ; and history affords 
examples without end, of a narrow gorge being de- 
fended for hours, by a mere handful of men against a 
host. Whole armies have been impeded in their 
march by the irregular, harassing incursions of a few 
Guerillas, or a party of ignorant peasantry ; and many 
a brave officer, whose services were essential to the 
success of an important expedition, has been thus 
singled out from behind a rock or a thicket, when an 
attack was least of all anticipated | 

‘The Mamlak cavalry were esteemed some of the 
finest in the world; but their charges although very 
terrific, were never conducted in the orderly manner of 
the Europeans. They were renowned for their horse- 
manship, and dexterity in the use of the sabre; and 
the quality of their steeds and their weapons has 
seldom been equalled, and never surpassed. 

‘They were in no respect deficient as Oriental sol- 
diery; and a braver set of men were no where to be 
found: added to which, being all fatalists, they were 
insensible to the terrors of battle; and if at any time 


peut Beas 


MamnLdrs. COT ME 





THE MAMLOK PROWESS—ANECDOTES. 253 


they fled, it was because they saw the impracticability 
of carrying their point, and not from any thing in the 
shape of panic. In all their engagements with the 
French, they made a most vigorous resistance, and 
dealt some most tremendous blows; it is even said of 
them that they handled the sabre with such exquisite 
skill, and that the steel of their Damascus blades was 
so highly tempered, that in some of their charges, they 
were actually known to cut through the bayonet. 
‘This appears incredible ; but when it is recollected to 
what perfection the art has been brought, and with 
what wonderful dexterity the executioner in the East, 
will, at a blow, sever the head from the body, before 
even his unfortunate victim is aware that the hand is 
on the hilt, we can easily imagine such a thing. In 
the latter case, strength is not so much required as 


skill and habit; it is done bya peculiar manner of 
drawing the hand backwards, at the same time that the 
blow is inflicted, and with such precision is it aimed, 
that the sign is no sooner given than the fatal sentence 
is passed.* Osman Effendi, the Scotch Mamlik, as he 


** Slr Walter Scott, with his usual ecouracy, alludes to this subject iu his des 
-exiption of the interview which took place between Saladin end Richard Comr 
‘dé Lion, in Palestine. ‘They wore assembles in the Soldan’s “ splendid pavilion, 
‘whore was evory thing that royal Inxury could deviao.” Wa road that “it 
was Richard's two-handed sword that chiefly nttractod the attention of the 
Bumeco, a broad, straight blade, tho socmingly unwieldy length of which 
‘exteadod wall aigh from the shoulder to the heel of the wearer,” 

“Had I not,” sald Suladin, "seen this brand flaming in the front of battle, 
ike that of Azrnel, I had searce believed that human arm could wicld it. 
‘Might I request to s20 the Melech Rie strike ane blow with it in poaea,and in pure 
trial of strongth?” ‘The king assented ; and at a single blow, fairly sevored the 
stool handloof @ solid toc! mace into two parts, which fell at the Soldan's foot, 
to his infinite astonishment!“ Something, I would foin attempt," anid he, “in 
return” for although he was inferior in strength to Richand, he did not funget 
that each land “hath ita own exercises.” 

‘s cushion of ailk and down, and placed {t upright on one end. He then une 
sheathed his scimitar, w curved and narrow blade, which glittered not Uke the 





254 OSMAN EFFENDI—DAMASCUS STEEL: 


has been called, (a Highlander who was second drogue- 
man to the British Consular Agent at Cairo, and of 
whom I shall soon have oceasion to speak,) assured me 
that with a fine Damascus blade which he knew he 
could trust, he once effectually shattered a sabre of 
ordinary manufacture, not by striking, but by simply 
warding off a blow aimed by another person, and that 
he would undertake to do the same again under similar 
circumstances. An English traveller, who thought he 
had bought a real Damascus blade, having paid a 
great price for it, and being rather proud of his 
bargain, felt not a little annoyed when Osman asserted, 
in rather plain terms, that it was only a piece of iron, 
and had been made at Stamboul.* The traveller was 
anxious to put the quality of his weapon to the test, 
and agreed, at Osman’s request, to strike his sabre a 
smart blow, as he might expect to doin battle; and he 
was the more stimulated to redeem the credit of his 


new purchase, when Osman, with a smile, repeatedly 
warned him of the consequences, “I am certain [ 
shall break it,” said he; “but since you will have it 


swonls of the Franks, but was, on the contrary, of w dull blue colour, marked 
with ten millions of meandering lines, which showed how anxiously the metal 
had been welded by the armourer. Wielding this weupon, upparontly #0 inet 
ficient when comparod to that of Richard's, the Solan stood resting his weight 
‘upon his left foot, which was slightly advanced: he balanced himsclf a little ax 
if to stoady his alm, then stepping at once forward, drew the scimitar across the 
eushion, applying the edge s0 dexterously, and with so little apparent «ffurt, 
that the cushion seemed rather to fall asunder than to be divided by violence, 
He afterwards divided a veil or shaw! whieh bad been simply laid double upon 
the Blade, “equally displaying tho extreme temper and sharpness of the 
weapon, and the exquisite dexterity of hima who used it,"'—Seothe Talisman, 
‘vol, He ps 205-8, 

This picture, so far from being overdrawn, fs a faithful tlustration of what 
may be witnemed in the prewnt day. In tho same volume, we also mew with 
‘what case Saladin strikes ff the head of the Templar, at a single blow a no 
grestor feat than i performed continually in Turkey and in Persia, by the 
"© Nasakebl,” or publio exeeationer. 

* j.6—Conatantinople, and is a perversion of “Ti rijy woken” 


4 


w 





THE BATTLE OF THE PYRAMIDS. 255 


so,—stand forth: it is far better that it should betray 
you now, than in the face of an enemy :’—and he 
deliberately drew forth his scimitar. ‘The traveller 
produced his, and aimed a terrific blow at the Mamlik, 
as though he would indeed have felled him to the 
earth ; but Osman, slipping a little to one side, and 
drawing his arm gently inwards, with, at the same time, 
a slight rotation of the wrist, received the full force of 
his antagonist’s weapon, which fell to pieces at his 
feet; and instantly raising his own, held it over the 
head of his opponent, which, had he been so disposed, 
he could have severed from his body in less time than 
his tongue could have called for mercy. A similar 
instance of “a strong arm and a keen blade,” is 
stated to have occurred a short time since, at the 
mess of a cavalry regiment in England. Lieut, C—, 
of the — Dragoons, undertook for a wager to cut 
through the middle of a thick iron poker with his sword, 
ina given number of strokes, and actually did so on the 
fourth stroke. The temper of the blade was evidently 
of first-rate excellence; for the edge was not in the 
slightest degree turned, or otherwise injured. The 
facts then which I have adduced, are sufficient, I 
think, to satisfy our minds concerning the truth of the 
assertion “that the Mamlks actually did cut through 
the French bayonets.” 

What has been pompously styled by our continental 
neighbours, “the Bale of the Pyramids,” comprises 
aseries of skirmishes between disciplined troops and the 
Mamltiks, who were altogether unaccustomed to * the 
square,” and other regular modes of fighting adopted by 
the former, andof course suffered most severely ; but the 
action so called, extended to the whole district between 
Rahmanieh and Cairo. That the French bayonets 


256 PROcEBDINGS OF THE FRENCH ARMY. 


and deliberate steady firing should ultimately prevail 
ever men accustomed to depend on their horses and 
sabres, with reference rather to personal yalour than 
scientific mancuyring, is no wonder: to say nothing of 
the inexperience of those who commanded the “ Cres- 
cent,’ when brought in collision with such men as 
Buonaparte, Kleber, Menou, Belliard, and others; to 
wit, Monge, Berthollet, Andréossy, Junot the pay- 
master, and Bourrienne, secretary to Napoleon, who 
though not in the military service, nevertheless, ac- 
cording to General Berthier, assisted Perrée in the 
unequal and dangerous engagement which preceded 
the battle of the Pyramids, and in which it is alleged, 
the Turkish flotilla was burnt, though not until upwards 
of 1500 guns had been fired.* 


* The battle alluded to was fought on the 14th of July s it begun at olevon 
in the moming nnd lasted wotil half-past twelve. At the name thme, Napoleon 
attacked « corpe of about 4000 Marm}iks,neur the village of Chebreisse, de- 
fented them, and foreed them to retire on Cairo. He had been warned of the 
condition of Perrée, by the cannonade which he had heurd wll the morning, and 
by the explosion of a ‘Turkish gun-boat, and hnstened to bis assistance ; 
— otherwiao,” said he, “not a single Mamlik had escaped mo.” Nevertho- 
ess, Peerée and the army did not meet nntil the 28rd of July. 
ght of the Pyramids on the 22d, and was told that he was then ten leagues 
from D'gieh. He had heurd the cannopade of Napoleon, which seemed aug~ 
‘mented as the north wind diminished. ‘This raised hia suspicion of what wus 
dolog by the army; but the firet real intimation hé received of a xeriéus en 
fagement, and the defeat of the Mamldks, the most formiduble of all their 
‘enemies, waa that heaps of thelr bodies ware hurried down with the ktrenm to 
the sear As his purty advanced, they found the villages whieh had previously 
taken part against them, now doverted: the firing fom the banks gradually 
ccosed, which intimated with tolerable certainty, that the Inbubitaate of the 
district knew of the fl! success of their countrymen. We are told that until 
the arrival af the French nt Igizeh, thoy suffered great privations, living for 
‘eloven clays on melons and water, and exposed at intervals, to the firing of the 
Follahe and Bedovoen Arabs. ‘The wwell of the Nilo was only beginoing on the 
Bard of July, when they reached Digitek, ‘The march of the Prench army to 
Cairo, was attended by an uninterrupted succession of combats and victories. 
‘They bad woa the battles of Rahmantch, Cherbriesse, and the Pyramids. The 
MamlOks were defeated, end tholr chief, Marni Hoy, wns obliged to dy into 
Upper Egypt. On the twontieth day of the campaign, after the battle of Ra 





‘PoLicy AND conDUCT OF BUONAPARTE, 257 


We arrived at Boulac on the evening of Friday, the 
26th of February. The sun had set, and the moon 


‘Daboh,* opposite Boulne, the port of Cairo, at which, it ia said, the Mamlike 
a 00 men led ad wou and eat forty pee of canon and great 
number of horses, Napoleon entered the capital without opposition, and 

up his residence at the house of Elfey Bey, In the great square ot mapa 
‘He adopted 2 Mheral polley, and amtumed the tone and character of a pro- 
teetor. He eansod a proclamation to be issued among the people, assuring 
thom that he would rvepect thelr laws and customs, and that he had the 
greatest reverenco for their religion: end when he subsequently visited the 
great pyramid, he even repented, on ontering, the words of the Khoran, so often 
to be found In the mouth of the Mussulmaun;—*There Is but one God! the 
Lord of all creatures; pralsed be his name! Mohuma:ned ts hls Prophet! blessed 
‘be God!" 

‘The Scheikhs who surrounded him, ali echoed tho sume, stroked thelr beards, 
and ttcknowledged that ho apoke wisely.’ Mévad Bay had retreated towards 
Sokkharah, and afterwards to the interior aa far na Sycne, whither he was fol- 
lowed by General Desaix, who found it difficult to subdue the Mumlike ; for 
they retreated from place to place, and gave him agreat deal of troable. In the 
amean Ume, Buonaparte had been to St.dean D’Acre, where he haul to contend with 
a different enemy, in the porson of our gallunt countryman, Sir Sidney Smith, 
‘and was compelled to raise the sloge. He returned to Faypt; and hearing that 
Mitrad Mey was among the Pyracnids at D'giteh, tried very hard to bring him 
to a general action, but in vain; Miirad retired to the Fayotm in the desert. 
‘Phe Turks then Tanded about 6,000 men ut Aboukir. Napoleon, assisted by 
Muriit, gave them Immediate battle, and compelled such as evcaped the laugh 
ter, to retrent to the ships. On his return to the capital, he attempted to tran= 
quillize the people, and to conelliate them by every moans in his power 5 he 
Improved thoir laws ; and during the short period that he was among thom, ct- 
‘illxation rupidlyailvanced. Whatever he did, was founded on a good and Brm 
basis; and a» far as Rigypt was concernod, it is to bo lamented that he was uot 
permitted to remain: for, by this time, the country would doubtless have been 
ina happy and flourishing condition. 

‘The destruction of the French fleet, however, by Nelson, which took placajustat 
this crisis, made a material alteration in the state of affairs, and the soldiers bee 
camo discontented; ospeclally as Buonsparte found a pretext for returning to 
France, leaving the “ grand armée"” under the command of General Klober, who 
was toon assansinated upon the torrace of his garden, at Cairo, ‘The command 
then devolved upon General Menou, with whora it continued, and we hare seen 
‘with what result ; for tho Preach treaty with the Porte being rejected, and the 
British interest prevailing, Admiral Lord Keith and Sir Ralph Abeserombie 
toon made their appearance on the coast. After the death of the latter, und 
‘he suecess of the British armies at Alexundrin, General Hutchinson having 
tnaterially increased hie resources by admitting the nea at Marcotis, commenced 





: 
imaeaepateeeeeearaaah am aeee 


258 SURRENDER OP CAIRO AND ALEXANDRIA. 


having not yet risen, we could distinguish nothing 
but a confused mass of buildings, differing in no re- 
spect, from such as we had seen at the various places 
at which we had moored elsewhere, When the moon 
‘was up, we could perceive that we were surrounded by 
cand’gias and d'germs of all descriptions, and that 
our company was not likely to be the most select; in- 
deed, Mohammed cautioned us against leaving. any 
portion of our baggage carelessly about; for that 
pilfering was unfortunately a propensity to which his 
countrymen were sadly addicted. 


operations against, the Interior; and Rahmanieh was agnin destined to be the 
seone of battle. Tt was considerod a stongbold by the Freneh ; but they were 
obliged to aurrender it tec Teh ehes 9 ape sake ARK TOUS) 
1901. ‘Tho Bnglish and Turks now songht to effect an union ; furious skir~ 
talshes took place, aad the array of the grand Visir gained a wlotory over the 
Prenoh, at Bi Lanka, vear Cairo, On the 251, the Visir and General Huteliin~ 
Hon met; and soon after, Calro capitulated. Belllard was then allowed to de~ 
part, which wns very fortunate ; for the Knglish soldiers were eccerdd 
murmur ; being tot only in arrears of pay, but sonsiderably fromm 
ayscntary ephnins and fer sa with promot ofa tedious eg before 

them. The troops were therefore overjoyed at the unexpected termination of 
their labours; aud the embarkation of the sick upou the Nile, the disposal of 
baggage, and the marching of the Preuch army under an escort of Eaglish and 
MamlOks, prosented altogether a most interesting and animated leture. 
General Hutchinson remained a fortnight ot Caire, to reernit his strength ; 
during whieh period, aroinforcament arrivod undor General Cooto,and the Meltish 
force was increased to 16,000 men, General Menou wn then at Alexundriay 
and on the approach of the English, he declared that be would sooner bury kim 
ulf in the ruing than surrender ; but we baye nlseady seen that he was induced 
in a short time to alter his determination: and on the 2d of September be was 
constrained to propose; for the town was attaeked both by sea and by land, 
anil would otherwise ahartly have been destroyed. 

So much for the campaigns of the twogrost armlos, which we may conceive, 
paved the way for civilisation, innsmuch as they diminished the power of the 
MamlOks, and tended to removes grostdeal of fanaticism, iulependently of the 
ccxertious of Napoleon in ther respects: fur the Turks no longer affected to de= 
xpite the Europeans: but condeeceaded to adopt many of thelr institutions, and 
Jearned to appreciate their laws. [havo briefly alluded! to those events, as they: 
form an important link In tho chain of Egyptian history, and are intimately 
‘connected with those of the present day. Eeveral scientific men accoropanked 
‘the Preach expedition, and to their labours we are indebted for much useful 
{nformation, See the works of Denon, Sir Robert Wilson, Reynler, Walsh, &: 





A NIGHT AT BOULAC—FACCHINI, 259 


The dew fell very thickly ; and we found the atmo- 
sphere, wedged in as we were by so many cand’gias, 
particularly oppressive, more from our locality, 1 ap- 
prehend, than anything else; for the wind was N.W., 
and the thermometer 60°. We passed a miserable 
night in consequence; the fleas and mosquitoes inter- 
dicted: sleep, and we determined to get away from our 
prison as soon as we could in the morning. Three 
hours after midnight, overcome with fatigue, and the 
mosquitoes having gone'to roost, we fell unconsciously 
into a sort of doze, from which we were roused by the 
chattering of unknown tongues, and we started up, 
almost together, surprised that the sun was stirring be- 
fore us. We did not feel much refreshed by our 
slumber, and having performed our ablutions, and 
finished our morning meal, we began to make arrange 
ments for debarkation. Just as we were thinking of a 
start, Mohammed informed us that we could not pass 
the gates without a teskereh,* that is, with our bag- 
gage, and that it would be absolutely necessary to go 
to the custom-house with it; but that it would be 
quite safe there. Anything to be emancipated! We 
settledwith our reis, not forgetting backscheesh7 for the 
crew, and set forth once more, full of expectation at 
the thought of finding ourselves before the gates of 
Grand Cairo, As we had no janizary with us, a 
teskerch was absolutely necessary. We therefore de- 
termined to leave our baggage with the officers, and 
afterwards to send a janizary for it. Let me have @ 
hackney-coach,” said Sir Frederick Henniker; “Si, 
signor, si!” resounded from a crowd of Facchini, and 
donkeys were immediately brought. 

Here a similar scene occurred to that at Alexandria. 

© Passport. + A present. 
22 





260 DISTANT VIEW OF “EL KAHIRA.” 


We were literally compelled to stand still for a few 
minutes, in consequence of the multitude of candidates 
for office, besides the numerous squalid, shriveled, 
sickly looking objects, some lame, others blind, by 
which we were surrounded, and which almost stunned 
us with their unceasing importunities. Mohammed 
once more exercised his lungs, and brandished his 
baton, to clear the way. We could not but pity, and 
yet it was impossible to look on and not laugh. The 
performance was ludicrous enough; but, if absolute 
contact be caleulated to extend the plague, we stood 
a fair chance of coming in for our share, We had 
become so accustomed to exhibitions of this kind, 
that we took it all very quietly, too much on the 
“qui vive’’ to anticipate evil of any kind; and at the 
moment, we forgot even the alarming reports that had 
recently been in busy circulation among the merehants, 
in consequence of the exaggerated statements that 
were fathered on Monsieur le docteur Pariset, who it 
seemed, was determined the people should have the 
plague, whether it liked them or not. Nolens volens 
almost, I found myself lifted by the ready hands of 
the Facchini, on to the back of one of the patient 
little animals that were waiting to transport us to the 
Egyptian capital, which now lay before us at the dis- 
tance of about a couple of miles, closely backed by a 
precipitous mountain ridge, a portion of the Mokattam 
range, and appeared a somewhat confused mass of build- 
ings, with numerous light and tapering minarets, and be- 
tween which and us, were interposed the irregularly-built. 
warehouses and neglected habitations of the port of 
Boulac, the guard-house, the douannes, extensive 
mounds of rubbish, dust, and broken pottery, the 
more distant walls, the gates and outworks of the city 





THE PORT OF BOULAC—THE DOUANNES. 261 


and a few scattered gardens, with palm and accacia 
plantations. Then there were groups of reclining 
camels being laden and unladen, tranquilly chewing 
the cud, and awaiting their masters’ pleasure; bales of 
goods also, bardiks of different sizes, and piles of 
earthen pots.* Moving up and down, were to be seen 
sakahs or water-carriers, with their huge sheep-skin 
bags, and decorated with cups ; venders of the gourd, 
yodart, } sweetmeats, and sherbet, charcoal, eggs, and 
dates; moreover, idlers, soldiers, porters, boatmen, 
beggars, Turkish and Egyptian women veiled and un- 
veiled, naked children, donkeys, and dogs, and an 
almost endless variety of moving objects which, indis- 
criminately huddled together, tended to obstruct the 
road, and between which we had to thread our doubt- 
ful way. The din was incessant; all tongues were - 
going at once. It was a very Babel: the scene was 
one of the most extraordinary that could be presented 
to the eye of a stranger; but every thing looked 
parched and hot; we were almost choked with dust, 
and the sun being now fairly up, we began to wax 
warm ; besides we were too much engaged with the 
multifarious groups around us, and the thoughts which 
they created, to be at all disposed to submit, just then, 
to the annoyance invariably occasioned by the dou- 
annes, The custom-house was close by, and we ex- 
perienced no difficulty. We found that we could 
deposit our baggage there without risk, and that we 
should be able to proceed immediately. The officers 
knew that on these occasions, they have for the most 
part, to do with the European Consuls, and that the 


* DentAks, Egyptian vases or pitchers, which are maile at Ghench, of a 
peculiar kind of porous elay, and are in common use all over the country, ws 
watersjars. 

1 Cnrd, 





262 ARAB OBSEQUIOUSNESS—THE CARAVAN, 


it of the whole business is intrusted to a 
janizary : that being travellers and not merchants, we 
were unlikely to have any contraband goods; and that 
as those who farmed the customs would neither wish 
nor dare to examine any thing, their best policy was, 
to be civil, and to look out for as large a backscheesh 
as they could; not by any attempt at intimidation, for 
then they would receive nothing, unless perhaps blows 
upon the bare feet; but by complimentary language, 
unmeaning professions, and empty declarations : to 
wit, Iam your trusty servant !"—* It shall be seen 
to, Howad’giah! It is all right!”—* El Capitan 
Inglese! Iva! Taieeb!—taiceb ! Insch’allah ! 
(Please God!) may your house prosper!” —*I am aman 
to be trusted !—Iva !—Masch’allah !, (God is great !)"" 
—and so on! Besides, it so happened, that at the 
time we arrived, they were engaged in a much more 
profitable manner ; the spot was strewed with merchan- 
dise ; heavy packages obstructed the way, and camels 
groaning under their cumbrous loads, and foaming at 
the mouth, as if they were burnt up with thirst; for 
having arrived from a long and tedious journey, they 
were delighted to behold tho glittering stream before 
them, and impatient to be relieved of their burdens, 
that they might partake of the refreshing draught. 
These sagacious, intelligent animals, were fully con- 
scious of what was doing; and whether they were 
familiar with the port of Boulac or not, seemed to 
understand that they were at their journey’s end, and 
that the merchant was about to embark his goods on 
the Nile, which flowed at their feet. 

Europeans haye no idea of the sagacity of these 
docile creatures : the Arabs invariably treat them well ; 
they are to them what the rein-deer is to the Esqui- 





THE DROMEDARY AND CAMEL. 263 


maux and the Laplander,—a principal source of their 
happiness: they furnish them with food, with clothing, 
with tents, fuel, and utensils, and transport them from 
place to place, often with merchandise, or with char- 
coal from the Desert, and in the hour of need, enable 
them to repel the encroachments of their enemies: they 
are brought up with their children, and together with their 
flocks and herds, constitute their entire substance.* 
In the present instance, the faithful creatures were not 
mistaken; they appeared uneasy ; and, utterly regardless 
of the strangers who stood by, they turned their swans 
like necks about from side to side, and followed their 
masters with their eyes, wherever they went, unwilling 
to trust, them from their sights and of their own ac- 
cord, lay down to be unpacked. Still, impatient at 
delay, whenever their swarthy owners drew near, they 
literally spoke; for the sounds they uttered were so 
pathetic, and so plain, that they could not be mis- 
taken. It was truly delightful to watch the expression 
of their eyes, and the pleasure they evinced as soon as 
the grateful task of unlading was commenced. 

* By certaisi of the Arab tribes, camels and dromedaries aro ased very ox- 
tensively In, thelr wars, particularly, when they have no horses, and in somo 
partsyan in Persia, and India, small guns ave mounted on thelr backs, oa @ 
swivel, and they are found extremely nseful ; for be It remembered, In countries 
which are very mountainous and thinly inhabited, as also in the Desert, there 
are no roads, nnd it would often be imposible to get heavy gundaloog ; wherene 
tho Zambureck’, or camel artillery, usually movo very fast, and the animals 
being onge trained, it may ensily bo rupposed, that a vory destructive fire wight 
be kept up from them,—The camel travels genemlly about four miles an 
hour: tho dromedary alx or olght, sometines tore; the former {p remurkuble 
for Lia strength, and will carry enormous weights : both are eapubleof enduring 
great fntigue, and. will go x long time without water: they aronot distinguished 
Uy the number of humps, a& some suppose: they are In fact, varieties of one 
‘aulinal ; antl stand in the saméxélation to cach other, as the Euglish unter 
sand the dray, or pack-horve, 





CHAPTER IX, 


ENVIRONS OF CAIRO AND BOULAC—THE TURBAN— 
EL HAD'GJ—SALUTATIONS —SCENES AND IMPRES- 
SIONS—ENTRE OF THE IMPERIAL city — “ET 
MAIDAN,” AND “BIRKET BS-BEQUIEH'’ — REFLEC- 
TIONS—THE FRANK QUARTER—HOTELS. 


Tae caravan just mentioned, and another which now 
began to arrive, and whose approach was previously 
indicated by a long line of camels slowly advancing 
in the distance, offered a prospect of a much richer 
booty than was likely to be obtained from those who 
like ourselves, belonged to the favored of the land. 
‘The officers had therefore something better to think 
of than turning over our pots and pans, provision box, 
sacs de nuit, leathern portmanteaus, &c. &c,, the ordi- 
nary paraphernalia of the Franks, and the ransacking 
of which could have gratified nothing but their curi- 
osity. A few piastres settled the business, whereas 
they might have been deprived of their fee altogether, 
if they had thought fit to give us any trouble. They 
appeared satisfied with their bargain; and when in- 
formed that a janizary from the British Consular 
Agent, Mr, Champion, would shortly come down for 
our baggage, they very courteously replied “ Taieeb ! 
taieeb! taieeb getir!”* and having, by permission, 
narrowly inspected our English fire-arms, articles which 
are sure to attract notice in the East, and to call forth 


* Good! very good ! 





THE “HAD'GS "—IMPORTANCE OF THE TURBAN! 265 


afew “ W'allahs!”*  Ad’joivas!”’ and other expressions 
of wonder and satisfaction, stroking of beards, and so 
forth—they suffered us to depart. It is considered here, 
asin Europe, necessary to observe some sort of form as 
a check upon travellers, or they would have allowed us 
to proceed at once. The leader of the newly arrived 
caravan, a tall, athletic, hard-featured Arab, with an 
intelligent, sparkling black eye, and a dark, swarthy 
complexion, now advanced, leading a dromedary, from 
which it seems he had just dismounted; the small 
ti ban atked him for a Had’ that is, one who 
descendant of the Prophet, or who 

has made the holy pilgrimage. Two of the officers 
went forward to sees “i a mark of respect which no 


doubt he owed to the colour of his turban, a point of 
infinite importance in every Mohammedan country. 


By it, and the forms and variety of its folds and bear- 
ing, may every man be known, his country, tribe, and 
religious creed; and he is dealt with accordingly. A 
native will almost name the particular district to which a 
stranger belongs, by thenumber and direction of the folds, 
their thickness, position and density : the colour refers 
to religion, and points out the sect or party. 
indicates Mohammedanism generally, without 

-any particular creed, and in some parts of 

it would subject a Christian to considerable 


or reputed descendants, 
ing worshipped at the holy 
le of Had'gj, Although no 





266 THE MOSLEM, THE CHRISTIAN, AND THE JEW. 


doubt, there are very many imposters who find it con- 
venient to assume the garb of sanctity, still this is an 
understood privilege, openly acknowledged and sane- 
tioned by all true Mussulmauns, and granted to them, 
and them alone; they are thought to have a peculiar 
claim to respect and veneration; yet it often happens, 
that such persons are only wise in proportion to their 
cunning, and surpass their countrymen in nothing but 
ignorance, superstitious pride, and the most degrading 
fanaticism. They are not unfrequently insolent and 
overbearing. 

Dark blue is the colour assigned to the Jew; and of 
it I need only say, that it is despised and scoffed at 
wherever it is seen! Black denotes the Christian, 
whether Catholic, Protestant, Dissenter, or what not. 
Until of late, the Mohammedan acknowledged no 
difference, and knew none. In bis eyes, a Jew was. a 
Jew—a man of no religion at all; a Christian was a 
Christian—one who professes very little ; and he still 
thinks that the true believer, viz. the devoted follower 
of Mohammed, is alone entitled to inherit the earth, 
or to be received into Paradise hereafter !— Red, 
yellow, and other colours may be adopted by any indi- 
vidual, according to his caprice or faney. The best 
definition that can perhaps be given of a Frank, is that 
he is strictly, neither a Mussulmaun nor a Jew: for 
it matters not whether be be a native of England, 
America, France, Italy, Germany, Spain, or Russia,— 
he is still a Frank, and supposed to be a Christian : 
of course, he ranks as such, and is expected to wear 
the black turban, that men may know him: never- 
theless, there is not now the same objection as formerly, 
to Christians wearing the white turban if they please ; 
but on no account can they presume to. defile the 





ARAD ESTIMATION OF “HAD'GJs !” 267 


livery of Mohammed ! this would amount to sacrilege, 
and would hardly be forgiven! The Armenians are 
Christians, and usually wear the -black turban, or col- 
pac,* but although they are known to. be Christians, 
and have at various times been severely persecuted as 
such, they are considered quite distinct from the Franks, 
as are also the Christians of Abyssinia. The green 
turban then, it will easily be supposed, is almost an 
universal passport in the East; there are few things 
which may not be accomplished among Mohammedans 
through its influence, and it often becomes a cloak for 
all kinds of knavery! Thus, he who bears the title of 
Had'gj, may pass himself off for a religious devotee, 
and yet be worthy the appellation of parasite, hypocrite, 
cheat, swindler, quack, rogue, thief, and impostor. 
What says the proverb? “ The Kh’oollaht does not 
always make the Dervish!” The Arabs are quite 
aware of this, and do not ail believe implicitly what 
they are told: they find it necessary sometimes to act 
with caution, and have a saying to this effect —* If a 
man has made the pilgrimage to Mecea once, let him 
be suspected :—if he has been twice, mistrust him ;— 
but if he has been a éhird dime, avoid him: for he is 
a dangerous character.” 

It was easy to perceive that our Had’gj was.a man 
to be respected, and that he found favour in. the sight 
of the officers: the usual compliments were inter 
changed, and the latter bade him welcome to Boulac. 
As the other camel drivers and attendants passed, they 
uttered cach in rotation, their Salaam. aleikoom,” 
moying the right hand gently over the left breast, 


* A large globular hunt or cap peculiar to those people, 
+ "Tho Kivoollah or Keerlal is a peculiar lang robo worn by the Dervish ; a 
sort of Caftan, for the most part, tattered. 





268 BASTERN SALUTATIONS—ROBRERS. 


which was cordially received by all parties, and as 
cordially returned. ‘There is something very beautiful 
and impressive in this form of salutation: it is not 
only graceful and elegant, but it conveys with it, a 
feeling of sincerity and warm-heartedness : in the East, 
it is regarded with a degree of sacred veneration; so 
much so, that in crossiug the Desert, or wandering in 
any remote distriet, where it is necessary to be on one’s 
guard against robbers and bad characters, and where 
the approach of a stranger is always viewed with sus- 
picion,—this is the invariable test of character, It 
matters not who or what the people are,—be they rich 
or poor, numerously attended or alone, in rags or well 
eaparisoned,—the salutation is offered—* Salaam alei- 
koom! (peace be with you),” accompanied by the 
usual sign. Tf, the parties are friendly disposed, they 
immediately return it with the words, “ Aleikoom 
Salaam,” and pass on, mutoally trusting to good feel- 
ing. Neither would hesitate to ask advice or assistance, 
and they would defend one another in the hour of 
danger. If however, on the other hand, the persons 
were evilly inclined, they would return no answer, but 
sulkily continue their route. This I have frequently 
experienced ; and it must always be received as a bint 
that we are not to be surprised at any thing that may 
afterwards happen, It is possible that the robbers, if 
such they really are, hesitate to attack, only because 
they find themselves inferior in number, or in strength: 
they may be on a reconnoitering expedition ;_ perhaps 
it is inconvenient, their comrades being out of sight, 
though nevertheless within call if actually needed; or 
they may be bent on some more important errand, and 
having scrutinized us, may not think that we are worth 
their time and trouble,—powder, or shot! Be this as 





ILLUSTRATIONS OF SCRIPTURE. 269 


it may, however ferocious their looks, and desperate 
their intentions,—however little we may be indebted to 
them for mercy or forbearance, we may depend upon 
it, they will not return our * Salaam,” if they are con- 
scious that they are on a predatory excursion, and know 
that they only refrain from injuring us because it suits 
them! There iz.a great deal of affection and brotherly 
love among the Bedoueens. When friends meet after an 
absence, they often kiss, and embrace, knee to knee. 
The practice of males saluting is very ancient. Judas 
betrayed the Saviour with a kiss; and there are many 
passages in the sacred volume, which refer to the friendly 
greetings and peaceful exclamations in use in the earlier 
ages, and which, like the above, betoken harmony, and 
good-will to man.* 

We, too, uttered our “Salaam,” and receiving one in 
return from the whole party, camel drivers and all, 
set forth, headed by Mohammed, at peace with every 
one, and in good humour with ourselves ; except that, 
as on previous occasions, we had rather an uneasy seat, 
our knees threatening to wage war with our eyes. 
However, we were beginning to get a little used to the 
Turkish saddle; but ever since our departure from 
Alexandria, we had found the tight European costume 
getting more and more irksome, and less suited to the 
climate or the customs of the country. 

Emerging from the dense buildings of Boulac, we 
found ourselves (as is commonly the case at the out- 
skirts of towns,) almost smothered with dust, and in 
the midst of dirt and rubbish. The little animals ran 
quickly on, followed by four ragged, dirty urchins on 
foot, yociferating as at Alexandria, with all their might, 


* Matthew xxrt 43. Lake xv. 90, Gonesis xxxitl, 4, Ruth fi & 
2 Seumucl xx.0. Joh xiv. 97.—Matthow y. 47. 





270 CAIREEN OMNIBUSES AND CADS! 


alternately in praise of their donkies, in broken Italian 
to us,—and to the people to get out of the way, 
in Arabic, as they went; as if conscious that they had 
got a good job, and that a larger fee than ordinary 
awaited them on their arrival, We were burried for- 
ward in spite of our desire to the contrary, the only 
answer returned, being a sort of vacant stare and a 
grin, which plainly indicated that we were not under 
stood; then followed an extra poke or two on the 
hinder parts of the donkies, with a stick, either eut 
to a point, or having a rusty nail at the end of it; 
and “Iva! Howad'giali !*—Taieeb!—‘Ommar, taiceb!’> 
—lachez le bride!—(another poke) taieeb! buono, 
Signore !—Riglak! Riglak !—(take care! take care! 
out of the way!) lachez, lachez—Riglak |—taieeb ! 
Frangi ! — Capitan ; — Iva — buono !—Si!" — almost 
every word being accompanied by a look of conscious 
merit and self-satisfaction, and a blow or a poke to 
the poor donkies, which wriggled to one side, and spun 
along with additional speed! We soon left the suburbs 
of Boulac behind us, and entered a more open space: 
our road then wound round a few dusty billocks, with 
here and there, a solitary palm. We encountered a 
great number of people of various denominations, all 
apparently on business, some on foot, a few on horse~ 
back, the cumbrous gaudy trappings rattling as they 
went; but almost all squatted, like our old’ friend 
Hamed, on donkies. We did not see one person who 
was attired in the Frank dress :—all wore the turban, 
except the soldiers of the Nisam, the sailors and the 
Greeks, who were alike to be distinguished by their 
close, red tabouself and closer fitting trowsers, 

We had not proceeded far, ere we arrived at the outer 

* You! Sir! Taleeb! good! 4 Gooll donkey. THe red eloth emp, 





THE SQUARE AND POOL oF “Es-pEQuIEH.” 271 


barriére of the city; and here, if we had had any 
luggage, we should have been required by the “keshek- 
chis*" to show our teskereh. As it was, we met with 
ho impediment, and were permitted to proceed. After 
we had passed these gates, the buildings became moré 
distinct, and our expectations relative to Cairo were 
considerably raised; the minarets appeared to more 
advantage, and the towering citadel added not a little 
to the consequence of the great metropolis. We soon 
entered what is termed the gate of “ Es-Bequich:” 
the “ Bostangee”’ or sentinel, was lounging about, and 
seemed 1 thought, half inclined to sit down at his post 5 
for any use that he was of, he might as well have taken 
himself off altogether. He took no notice of any one ; 
nor, I fancy, of anything. There were several persons 
besides ourselves, and as we advanced across the large 
square or “ Maidan,” known by the same title, and 
near which is also the celebrated “ Birket’’ or pool of 
“ Es-Bequieh,” the numbers very materially increased, 
and there appeared a greater variety of costumes, As 
yet, we had only seen those perhaps who were in the 
habit of passing on business between Cairo and Boulac; 
but we soon found ourselves in the midst of a dense 
crowd, and we paused for a moment, to look behind us 
at the wild spot which we had just traversed: there 
were several large houses and palaces, if not within it, 
overlooking it ; here it was that Buonaparte pitched bis 
tent ; and many buildings, destroyed bythe Frencharmy, 
have never been restored, which gives the whole place 
a ruinous aspect. Nevertheless, it is much frequented 
by the Caireens, who come to take “the dust,” especially 
towards evening, when the atmosphere is somewhat 
cooled, and still more, during high Nile ! 
* ‘The guards of the city gates. 





272 THE MANSIONS OP THE GREAT. 


‘There are a few sycamores, which afford a little shel= 
ter to the cattle ; and here and there, may be seen an 
insignificant patch of grass. Formerly this was a much 
more important situation than it is at present; and 
during the influence of the Beys and Mamliks, it no 
doubt wore a very different complexion. A large 
house was pointed out on the left, as being that in 
which the French General Kleber, lived and died, It 
belonged, I believe, in after times, to the Defterdar Bey, 
who married a daughter of Mohammed Ali.* He 
was said to be the richest private individual in Egypt. 
Kleber’s assassination took place in the garden attached 
to this house ; but not even the terrace, or the well where 
the assassin hid himself, is to be seen now, every thing 
having been altered since that time. ‘There are many 
domiciles in this neighbourhood which are distinguished 
from the rest by their appearance; they belong to 
persons of consequence, but convey no idea of nobility 
to an European, whose mind reverts with peculiar 
satisfaction, to the lovely villas and noble mansions of 
the great in his own country, and whose imagination 
may have been too highly raised by what he has either 
heard, or read, of the enchantments of the East! 
Whoever comes to Egypt with such notions, will find 
himself most grievously disappointed. ‘There is often 
a great deal of splendour in the interior of buildings, 
but the outside of them is generally dilapidated, mean, 
and irregular ; the windows are latticed, and open chiefly 
into a court or quadrangle, and the whole is perhaps 
inclosed by dull, heavy, brick walls, with portals, like 
the gates of a fortress. Some of the dwellings have 
small, stone-girt gardens attached to them, with a 


* Some say, a sister, The Deflerdar Bey is collector of the revenue: See 
Chap, IV, also Vol. 11. Chap. Vi. 





ORIENTAL MAGNIFICENCE. 273 


fountain or well in the midst: but however agreeable 
these may be, they are neither elegant, nor picturesque ; 
they are refreshing to look at, but not to be compared 
with those which we are accustomed to behold in 
Europe. The houses are built in this way, for the sake 
of protection during troublesome times, or to render 
the inhabitants secure from the gaze of strangers. in a 
public city; but they give a sombre heaviness to the 
streets, themselves narrow and confined, which is any 
thing but pleasing. The mos'ques are truly magnifi- 
cent, and offer to our view some noble specimens of 
Arabian architecture.* A Turkish kiosk or summer- 
house, on the banks of a bright stream tastefully planted, 
is also a picturesque object; but certainly there is 
nothing to admire in the generality of Mohammedan 
town residences. On emerging from this the Maidan 
or great square of Cairo, which is, after all, only a 
part of the suburbs (though it would become a very 
nice place in the hands of Europeans), we entered the 
narrow, crowded streets of the city itself, and never 
shall I forget them: the noise and bustle of Boulac 
were nothing to that which we experienced here. 

We had long ceased to think that we were in fairy 
Jand, and the legendary tales of the nursery had lost 
their influence: but if any particle of romance yet 
lurked within us, our first entré into grand Cairo was 
more than sufficient effectually to eradicate it. Instead 
of beholding splendid, light, and airy buildings, with 
Arabes’que, ornamental towers, gilded domes, and pin- 
nacles, over-hanging gardens, large and spacious courts, 
with tents and awnings, magnificent playing fountains, 
obelisques and temples, adorned with variegated em- 
bossed ornaments, trellis work, allegorical figures, in- 

© See Mr. Mny's [iustrations of Cairo, 

VOL. I. T 





274 WIGH-WAYS AND BYE-WAYS—THE PEOPLE. 


scriptions, and gracefully flowing, rich, and party-coloured 
pavilions,—we were hurried by the same kind of vortex 
by which we had been hitherto impelled, into streets so 
narrow that they ought rather to be denominated wind- 
ing courts, or interminable dingy lanes; for they 
constantly communicate with each other, and are 
bounded on either side, by lofty ruinous walls, with only 
here and there a window, unglazed, and latticed with 
wood. The crowd was so great that it was hardly 
possible to move, and sometimes we stood a very good 
chance of being jammed up between a camel and a 
stone wall. Never, perhaps, was a more motley group 
brought together within any one given space ; the way 
was completely obstructed by objects moveable and 
stationary! To say nothing of mounds of earth and 
unburnt powdering bricks, which here and there clogged 
up the road, and stalls of all kinds, there were asses, 
horses, and camels, and foot passengers of every 
denomination and degree: to wit, — water-carriers, 
pedlars, barbers, beggars, saints, and women, naked 
children grubbing in the dirt, charm-venders, quack 
doctors, Arabs of the Desert, Turks, soldiers, and 
merchants, Franks, Greeks, and adventurers, the 
Ulemah, sellers of sherbet, sugar, and honey, serpent- 
charmera with immense snakes, though venomous, coiled 
about their arms and neck, apparently in a torpid state, 
rat-catchers, negroes and fortune-tellers, retailers of 
“smoke,”* fakirs, lepers, jugglers and mountebanks, 
all passing and repassing in pursuit of their particulor 
business, and many of them proclaiming their respective 

* Men who go about with ® bundle of plpes under thelr arm, anit for the 
‘vals of & pari, accommodate those who aro too poor (and they must be poor 
Indeed 1) to porsess a pipe and tobacco of thelr own. Mohammed Ali's father 


‘was a member of this profemsion. Of course all euch portons, like the barbers, 
‘aro accomplished gosip-mongers. ‘ 





SCENES AND IMPRESSIONS !—BAzaans. 275 


avocations. The uproar that is produced. in conse- 
quence, may pretty well be guessed at; moreover, the 
soil is of a light sandy nature, and as there is nothing 
in the shape of pavement, a dust is sent forth in one 
continued cloud, the particles of which are so fine; 
that they get into the throat and eyes, ascend into 
every chamber, and render themselves particularly 
obnoxious to clock-work and other machinery. In the 
bazaars, where quantities of valuable goods are exposed 
to view, the dust is effectually laid by sprinkling the 
ground with water, from time totime. If this were to 
be neglected, considerable losses would be sustained ; 
canvass is also thrown across from the roofs of the 
shops, to keep out the sun at mid-day ; and upon the 
whole, some of the bazaars are rendered not only very 
amusing and highly instructive places, as I shall have 
hereafter to illustrate, but also very cool and pleasant 5 
that is, when we are inclined to sit down at one of the 
shops or stalls, and smoke a quiet pipe with the more 
intelligent merchants. 

It has often been remarked by Londoners, that 
strangers who come from the sweet and verdant hills 
and wholesome dells of happy England, to visit their 
friends in the metropolis, require to haye their * eyes 
about them ;” and it is related of a simple country lass, 
that when she alighted from the stage coach, she 
became alarmed, and begged her mother to wait and 
let the “ crowd go by,” for “sure it must be fair-day !” 
And who that is acquainted with the bustle of the city, 
has not seen an honest husbandman so bewildered and 
confused, that at last he has stood stock-still in a nook, 
to consider what to do next,—call a coach in despair, 
having lost his way,—or turn up a court to consult his 
map ?—If such observations are applicable in London, 

r2 





276 “Quor HOMINES, TOT SENTENTLE !"’ 


\heyare doubly so in Grand Cairo, where, unfortunately, 
the names of the streets are not written up, neither is 
there any sign or beacon for our guide, and there is of 
course no map to consult—no place of refuge—no 
hackney coach—but twice the bustle and confusion ;— 
where cleanliness is altogether disregarded; and 
where there are so many disgusting sights,—so much 
sickness, blindness, and real misery,—consequently so 
many wretched objects of charity to distract the mind 
—an almost infinite variety of characters, nations, cos- 
tumes, and languages,—so much mingling of “ unknown 
tongues,” such narrow streets that there is hardly space 
sufficient for one camel, if laden, to pass another,—so 
much heat, thirst, dust, and excitement,—so many 
offensive smells,—so much to interest and amuse,—so 
many, and such curious associations arising from what- 
ever is presented to the eye, or may happen to catch 
the ear,—and such a multiplicity of themes for reflection 
and study, that four-and-twenty hours in the day are 
insufficient to collect and digest what may chance to 
have arrested the senses of even the most common 
observer !—It is worthy of remark that not only in 
Egypt, but in Turkey, Syria, and other countries of 
the East, the manners, customs, usages, tastes, feelings, 
and inclinations of the people, whether they refer to 
trifles or things of consequence, differ most materially 
from that which is generally adopted, recommended, or 
admired, in Europe. In regard to many things, the 
very opposite to that which we practice is had recourse 
to, and in some respects, with reason, Even refine- 
ment may be carried to an extreme; and it decidedly 
1s 80, when it tempts us to conceal our natural feelings, 
andto layaside that which reason and inclination prompt, 
for the sake of what has possibly nothing to recommend 





REFINEMENT, LUXURY, AND FASHION. 277 


it but the sanction of the “élites!” Many have been 
induced by fashion to sacrifice their comforts and hap- 
piness; and have become dissatisfied with their con- 
dition, and unfit for the enjoyments of social life, which 
after all, are before every other. There is no such 
thing as a free interchange of honest feeling among 
the votaries of pleasure: for honesty is incompatible 
with the taste which guides them; and I do say, that 
such persons might possibly be led to acknowledge 
(could they be eye-witnesses of many things which 
come under the notice of the Oriental traveller) that 
the present state of society in Europe is artificial and 
unmeaning, and that some of the “contraries” adopted 
and practised by the rude and illiterate persons who 
follow the simple dictates of nature and common sense, 
are worthy of our imitation! The introduction of 
luxury creates new desires; and the wants of man 
increase the more they are gratified : just as thirst may 
become insatiate if we refuse to control the appetite. 
Having once exchanged the simplicity of the cottage 
for the pomp and glitter of the court, we acquire new 
tastes, and are led to adopt many things for which at 
first, we had a decided aversion : we are allured by false 
appearances, and the insinuating flattery of our associ- 
ates, until at length, the object of our dislike is set 
before us in such a fascinating garb, that it is irresistible, 
We imperceptibly fall into the snare, and when it is 
too late, we discover that we have been in pursuit of 
a “ Will 0” the whisp” after all; and bow to extricate 
ourselves from the dilemma, is perhaps a problem not 
easily solved. Although I should be very sorry to see 
a similar state of society in England to that which 
generally prevails in the East, I am not so bigoted to 
the opinions of my countrymen, as to wish to draw a 


cs 





278 CAIRO, LONDON, AND PARIS—HUMAN LIFE! 


veil over their foibles. By studying the character and 
disposition of those who haye been differently brought 
up, and by comparing our relative condition, we may 
hope to benefit both ourselves and others : but if we 
refuse to profit by our experience, we shall travel to 
little purpose. 

Cairo, like London or Paris, is indeed, the world in 
miniature. Human beings come into it and go out of 
it—they toil and labour, and for a time, flourish; 
but, such is the bustle, noise, deception, and disguise, 
thet they pass through it and are hardly seen. The 
tide of prosperity and adversity runs equally strong ; 
there is a continual current and interchange of fortune 3 
some rise with and glide smoothly down the stream, 
regardless of the passing objects ; others, less favored, 
meet with endless impediments to their advancement : 
some have to struggle with the storms of adversity, 
having possibly neglected the opportunity when ‘it 
served; very many are shipwrecked in consequence 
of their own imprudence, and led by impetuosity to 
commit some rash deed; whilst others, hurried away 
by the whirl-pool of ambition, sink down and are lost 
in the quick-sands of oblivion. As in the world at 
large, therefore, so in the streets of Cairo! It is indeed 
necessary to have the “eyes about one,” and to watch ! 
otherwise we shall stand a good chance of being over- 
powered, and disabled for ever. Where there is such 
a multitude of moving beings, all hurrying forward in 
the same narrow space, and for the most part, regard- 
less of nothing but their individual good, it is not to 
be supposed that those who have got the middle of 
the path, will step out of the way for the convenience 
of another, or sacrifice their own comfort and advantage, 
to promote the welfare of a stranger in whom they 





THE woRLD l— nigtak! rtauak ! sHemaLRK !” 279 


take no particular interest. 1 have heard it asserted 
by the worldly-minded and morose, that there is no 
such thing as friendship. I am not such a Cynic as to 
believe this. Thank God! I have reason to know 
the contrary. Where all are seeking their own interest, 
it may be a rare commodity ; but he who has no friend, 
and is himself a friend to nene, is truly an object of 
pity! It is nevertheless true that in the world, however 
a man may be disposed to assist a fellow-creature, it is 
incumbent upon him to do the best be can for himself. 
If he has a family to support, he must depend on his 
own exertions, and not on the professions of other 
people. It is hard to be obliged to suspect our neigh- 
bour, but experience teaches that in the transactions of 
life, all are not equally sincere, and that caution is 
necessary: or, as in the narrow, crowded streets of 
Cairo, we shall soon be cast down, and trampled under 
foot. We almost expected that such would literally 
have been our fate before we reached our place of 
destination : for the donkey boys hurried us along with 
so much rapidity, addressing themselves now exclu- 
sively to the various objects as we proceeded, that 
what with the incessant jargon and bustle, the irksome- 
ness of our seat, and the praspect of being every 
moment rolled beneath the unwieldy feet of a camel, 
and being already choked with the heat and dust, we 
began to feel quite sick and blind. Nevertheless, 
onward we went, jolted, and jostling one another, 
until at the end of a narrow lane or alley, through 
which we were threading our way by means of the 
coorbash,* and the bastone, aided by the persuasive 
eloquence of “ Riglak! Riglak! Shemalek! Shema- 


* © Coarbash’—a long buffato’s tendon, which is in general use ns a thong of 
ding whip. 





280 “MONSTRUM HORRENDUM IN TERRIS !* 


lek! Riglak ! Shemalek !"*—bebold! a line of huge 
camels slowly advancing, one behind the other, in 
funereal procession. ‘Their heavy cumbrous loads add- 
ing to their naturally bulging sides, they seemed actually 
to fill up the entire space, and that to pass would be 
impossible; yet there was no retreating, no escape! 
The animals seemed almost to reach with their long 
necks to the windows of the houses, and occasionally 
paused to sniff at some object which attracted their 
sensitive olfactories. ‘The street was so narrow that 
no division could be seen between them: they looked 
like some huge, unearthly monster, rolling along the 
unwieldy folds of its hideous body, within which we 
were likely soon to be ingulphed: when suddenly a 
ery from the driver behind, or from the leader, a Be- 
doueen who sat on the pinnacle of the foremost, 
composedly smoking his pipe, utterly regardless of the 
méites around him,—unmereifully urged them forward ; 
and on the other hand, our own unrelenting guides, 
equally heedless of our condition, gonded us “de 
nuovo,” from behind !—* Riglak ! Riglak ! Shemalek !"* 
‘The monster approached ; and by some unaccountable 
miracle or other, we contrived, by creeping into a cor- 
ner, and squeezing ourselves into nothing, to just get 
past, piano, piano! and with no further damage than a 
grazed leg, and a long slit down the side of our best 
inexpressibles ! 

- Fortunately for us, by this time our moustaches 
had begun to assume a decently ferocious aspect; so 
we determined, instead of seeking out a Frank 
tailor, to repair to the bazaar, have our heads 
shaved, let our beards grow, assume the turban, and 
turn Mussulmaun; at least, guoad externals. We 


* "Take caret look to your loge! To the left!" 





ACCOMMODATION FOR TRAVELLERS. 281 


discovered that our nimble-footed Caireen conductors, 
through some misunderstanding, pretended or real, had. 
taken us to a more remote part of the town first, and 
had subsequently brought us back, by one of their own 
near cuts, preferring the bye-way to the high-way, of 
course: and hence the reason of the camel adventure! 
—* Confusion on their heads |” 

Entering once again the principal thoroughfare, an 
insignificant narrow turning to the right brought us at 
length, by a large wooden gate, to the entrance of the 
“ Frank quarter,” and more particularly to the “Hotel 
de France,” the chief European resting place. But 
as we had no baggage, we designed to go at once to 
the house of the English Consul, which was close at 
hand; and two minutes more brought us to the spot.* 

* The traveller may be accommodated among the natives if he prefer ity 
‘and those who have resided some time in the East, generally go direct to the 
han,” or  korvansoral,” of which there ig always one, if not two, in every 
city. ‘The oriental inns are for the most part at the outskirts, or just within 
the gator, of the town: they consist of o large court, In the centre of which is 
tank or fountains the sides are built like clolsters, with niches or vaults for 
‘he horses and dromedaties; and above these, are apartiaente with a long 
sallery In front of them. ‘The lodgings are mers cells—nothing but bare walls, 


covered. with dust and vermin: sometimes a moged mat fs found! in one corner, 
awarming with fleas; but there is no furniture of any kind, as every man 


huge 
class of merchants to assemble in. ‘The superiatendant ean furnish coifee and 
““tiblda," oF chopped straw for the horses, Tn the larger cities wcook"s shop Js 
attached, and there is n barber hard by—Sce page 283. Meud the “ Khan's 
‘Tale of the Caravansorai ;” by Fraser, Also Lake i. 7. 





CHAPTER X. 


CAIRO—THE BRITISH CONSULATE—TURKISH NOTIONS 
OF FRANKS—OSMAN THE MAMLUK—HUMAN LIFE— 
THE EXILE — MESSRS. MALTASS AND ROBINSON — 
GALLOWAY BEY—HINTS TO TEAVELLEES, ETC. 


We reached Grand Cairo, or, as it is commonly 
written, manent ear ae Bedale oe 
‘The consul's house was a plain, su 

edifice, with lasticed windows placed for the most 

at some height above the divan, which 

each side of the chief apartments. We perry 
spacious court, and sent our drogueman to announce 
our approach, thinking ourselves very fortunate in 
finding Mr. Champion at home ; for it is on the 
stranger's first arrival io an Oriental city, that he first 
needs advice. 

We were ushered into a large, oblong room, fur- 
nished with carpets, divan, and other necessaries 
adapted to the habits of the East; for as I have 
already stated, the customs of the Franks resident in 
Egypt, assimilate very much with those of the natives = 
and of course the European merchants find it con- 
sistent, so to regulate their time, as to suit their 
convenience :—besides, the climate renders such regu- 
prin? both agreeable and necessary, 

Mr. Champion had just been taking his mid-day 
nap, and was preparing to go out, when we were 





THE FRANK QUARTER—PRACTICAL HINTS. 283 


introduced. He had already been apprised of our 
coming by Messrs. Robinson and Maltass, who, Bats 
taken a more direct route from Alexandria, reached 
Cairo first. Pipes, coffee, sherbet and sweetmeats, 
were brought in quick succession; and we found our- 
selves comfortably seated on the divan : (at least as 
comfortably as “tights” would permit!) 
Understanding that it was our intention to visit the 
interior, the consul advised us on no account to delay, 
as the season was advaneing, and the Nile was begin- 
ning to get low; a circumstance which we ought not 
to overlook, as it might subject us to considerable 
ineonyenience and loss of time. He recommended 
that we should proceed to the Cataracts as soon as 
convenient, and stay at Cairo on our return ; when we 
could shape our future course aswe pleased. But,” 
added he, “if you determine to remain here now, 
your best plan will be to engage a private dwelling 
house.” He then proceeded to doseribe the Frank 
quarter. He said we could be very well accommodated 
at the hotel, but that we ought to have a clear under- 
standing with our host, and be wary of his inmates: 
for that we should find among the loiterers there, 
a curious admixture of character; and he kindly 
promised to send a person with us to make the neces- 
sary arrangements.* For this mark of his attention, 
we were very grateful, being already excited and 
fatigued. We were not particular: all we wanted 
was an asylum from scorpions, fleas, lice, and mos- 
quitoes—some wholesome, decent spot on which to 
lay our head in peace—neither a “ mad-house, a 
* Thanks to tho exertions of Messrs. Woghorn, Hill, Raven, and Co., the 


future traveller will have no dificulty : every accommodation being now provided, 
as in Europes 





284 INTERVIEW WITH THE BRITISH CONSUL. 


prison, nor a lazaret,”*—though truly a refuge for the 
destitute ; for we had not yet overcome the feverish 
effects of our last night's attempt at repose, on board 
the cand’gia at Boulac, surrounded as we were, by 
vermin, noise, filth, and Arab song! Neither had we 
recovered from the effects of our late “ rough riding,” 
of which the deplorable condition of our *culottes’® 
bore ample testimony! We had all cracked a joke at 
their expense, and were talking over other important 
matters relative to lodgings, tailors, beards, baggage, 
guides, and so forth—forgetting, in our zeal for our 
own affairs, that we were probably interrupting those 
of our entertainer, We had already smoked out our 
third t’chibouque," and emptied as many “find’- 
giansf of strong coffee, (sans lait, sans sucre ;)— 
the consul would have called for more, but finding that 
we were bent on leaving, he made us promise to return 
in the evening, “ when,” said he, “I shall be able to 
introduce you to Galloway Bey and Monsieur Piozin, 
to whom you have letters; you will also meet your 
friends Maltass and Robinson, who propose to make a 
journey to Thebes: you will then have an opportunity 
of discussing a variety of subjects, and of digesting 
your future plans."" So saying, he clapped his hands 
three times. An Arab servant appeared, and was 
commanded to send one of the janizaries. He replied 


* Tho motley group that usually inhabit tho Franke rary ob Cobo Bala 
in such excesses, that they have obtained for Europeans « bad name among 
sober-mindod Turks and Arabians, who are very much of opinion that a Frank 
{is alternately‘ mad, rebellious, and diseased,” and that he becomes, sooner orlater, 
a suitable object for each of the threa delectable residences above mentioned. 
‘Their iden ix chietty taken from the employés, and those engaged in the service of 
‘the Frankmerchants, The conduct of these people is often #0 disorderly, that 
tthe authorities, with a view to provent quarrels between them and the natives, 
ander the gates of the Frank quarter to be closed every night! 

+ A very tenall cup, in which, in these countries, coffee is served. 





" PRESH ACQUAINTANCBS—ISLAMISM. 285 


in his native tongue, and passing his right hand over 
his left breast, making at the same time a respectful 
inclination of the head, immediately withdrew to exe- 
eute his master’s orders, The janizary came, and with 
him, Osman Effendi, the second drogueman. The 
former was dispatched to Boulac with full instructions 
about our luggage, and we were not a little surprised 
when the latter opened his mouth, to recognize, in the 
Mamliik before us, a nativeof North Britain. He was 
a tall, fine man of about fifty years of age, with rather 
a stern aspect, fair, clear complexion, and powerful 
limbs. Mr. Champion was about to give him directions 
relative to the hotel, and would have commissioned 
him to engage suitable apartments for us; but Osman 
recommended to our notice a countryman of the name 
of Bell, who was living at Cairo with his wife and 
family, and rented a house belonging to himself, which 
was situated in the Turkish quarter. Of course we 
gave him the preference. We then took our leave, 
anticipating the delights of an hour or two's repose. 
We did not forget our friend the German, and sent to 
inform bim that he could be accommodated in the same 
house with us, if he liked. The old man lost no time 
in joining us. While dinner was preparing, we stretched 
our limbs upon the divan, and, protected by a mosquito 
net, soon fell into a soundsleep. After dinner, Osman 
paid us another visit, and introduced “mine host” to 
our acquaintance. He was a person of sulky, gloomy 
aspect, apparently not much accustomed to control his 
temper, and given, as we afterwards found, to drink- 
ing: however, he was civil enough to us. Osman 
could not be prevailed on to wet his lips until his 
friend's back was turned: for it was “ Rhamad'han," 
and he kept up the farce of Islamism even in Bell's 





286 OSMAN EFFENDI, THE SCOTCH MAMLUK : 


presence: although, no doubt, the latter had long since 
discovered that he made it more a matter of con- 
venience than any thing else, and that he found it ex- 
pedient with the Mussulmaun garb, to assume the 
manner, and, as he would have it believed, the religion 
also! This, however, was best known to himself. 
Suffice it to say, that he was. rigid in the laws of his 
* Anderoon,” professed to drink no wine, to cat no 
pork, and in fact, to conform to the established usages 
of Mussulmaun society! To bis countrymen, how- 
ever, (at least to those who, like ourselves, would ap- 
preciate his meaning,) he openly acknowledged: that 
he was still a Christian: though living as he did there, 
and taking into account all that he had endured since 
he left his native land, having once found it absolutely 
necessary to pass himself off for a Mohammedan, it 
would have been attended with some inconvenience to 
him to have thrown aside the mask. He informed us, 
that during a very long residence in the East, it had 
fallen to his lot to act in varions capacities, and that he 
had made the acquaintance of several of the resident 
Turks and Arabs, some of whom he respected for 
their good qualities: that these believed him to be 
sincere in his religious professions, and it would ad- 
vantage him nothing to undeceive them that there had 
been times, when his very existence depended upon 
his practising this deceit ; and that there was no telling 
to what insults he might even then be subjected, (not- 
withstanding so many improvements bad taken place) 
were he to act differently. He seemed to he perfectly 
acquainted with the language, and so familiar with the 
habits and customs of the Arabs, that they had almost 
become natural to him. He understood their laws, 
pretended to observe their fasts, the duration and suc- 





HIS HISTORY AND CHARACTER. 287 


cossion of which he regularly marked, and like poor 
Burckhardt, studied to respect their prejudices; and, 
at least, as regards externals, to let it be thought that 
he was thoroughly devoted to the “true faith’? Under 
ordinary circumstances, Osman would have been des- 
pised for his seeming apostacy; but the Arabs had 
been reconciled by the length of his-residenee, and 
the kindness which they had from time to time, expe- 
rienced at his hands. He continued, therefore, to act 
as if he had indeed changed his religion, and become 
one of the most sincere followers of the Prophet. 
“ Adversity," says the wise man, “is a great altera- 
tive.” The star of Osman had been, at one period, 
on the decline, and he might with justice have been 
styled a child of sorrow;” but latterly, fortune 
seemed to have smiled, and he profited by his expe- 
rience. The fact is, Osman had been in exile—a 
slave among the enslaved: yet he bore all with patience 
and fortitude, and contrived in the evil hour, when he 
had barely escaped the sword, to blind the eyes of his 
oppressors, “laugh at their beards,” and make them 
“eat dirt!" “Allah! Allah! il Allah !'’ he would 
exclaim: “ Pate is a wonderful thing—Who can with- 
stand the decrees of destiny? Mash’allah!”” and then 
he would take forth his pocket Khoran, and read !* 
If he did not pray so often as others, he would never- 
theless frequent the “ kh’ammams,”} and scrupulously 
perform his ablutions; he was never seen to drink 
wine, and he rigidly abstained (in public) from every 
thing that is accounted unclean! If he was not 
looked up to as a pattern, by the followers of Mo- 

7 © Allah! Allah | {1 Atlah” there is only one God! Mash‘allah 1” God 


is groat! 
+ Kh'omeamns,"” the baths, 





288 Tue ANDREA FERRARA —DAMASCUS STEEL. 


hammed, he was, nevertheless, to all appearance, a 
naturalized Arab, and the mirror of a true Mussul- 
maun! He was, moreover, a Mamlik, and though he 
had no beard, he was fair! The costume became him 
much; and when, wielding the staff of office, he has 
stood forth to reprimand, or repel, his brawny limbs 
and steady gaze have made many a “ fellah” tremble 
in his skin: not that I am at all aware that he was 
prone to take advantage of the simple, or tyrannize 
over those who were in his power ; but in spite of the 
disguise occasioned by the long, loose, flowing robes 
of the East, it required but little penetration to discern _ 
the steady, firm, and resolute look, and undaunted, 
determined demeanour, of the Scottish Highlander ; 
the white “‘bernous” seemed in a moment, to fall 
from his shoulders, and we could fancy him as formerly, 
in kilt and philibeg, the black plumes waving from his 
tartan cap, wielding as in olden time, the good clay- 
more in defence of his once dear native hills. But it 
was long since he had exehanged the trusty blade, so 
often drawn in freedom’s cause, the far-famed, bright, 
pale, glittering “‘ Andrea Ferrara,” for the broad, dull, 
blue, and watered, exquisitely wrought Damascus 
steel, of classic excellence—inferior to none, if persons 
understand its merit, but useless and treacherous to 
those unpractised in the art, or if they be ignorant and 
unskilled in the peculiar manner of its application.* 
I have often asked Osman to tell me a little about 
himself; but I remarked that he always endeavoured 
to change the subject. 1 did not press it. Possibly 
the recital of his tale would have occasioned the recol- 
lection of many who were dear to him: of those who 
had long sitice passed into the tomb, and of some who, 
© Vide Chap. VIII, 





CONSOLATIONS OF ONE SELF-BANISHED. 289 


if they survived, were far beyond the “deep blue sea,” 
and knew not even that he lived, or that they were 
destined ever to see him more! At one period, his 
trials had been considerable; but latterly, the star of 
his destiny had moved in another and a better sphere ; 
and it is not impossible, that although a cloud had 
overshadowed certain portions of his life, the good 
might, on the whole, have been commensurate with the 
evil, if it did not even preponderate. If so, the sorrow 
oceasioned by the retrospect would have been transi- 
tory. His trials once ended, the recollection of his 
strange, eventful history, would have been attended, I 
should think, with pleasure rather than pain. He evi- 
dently continued where he was, by choice ; so I cannot 
suppose that he had many ties or connections in his 
own country, or that absence from his native land 
materially disturbed his thoughts. His spirits were al- 
ways good; he enjoyed the best of health; bis wants 
were well supplied, and he filled an honourable situa- 
tion in the British consulate. By reason of his inti- 
mate acquaintance with the people, their country, and 
language, he was enabled to render himself useful to 
all European travellers, which became to him a source 
of considerable profit and delight : for it raised him to 
a society far above that which rank and education 
entitled him to expect any where else. Of all men 
that I ever met with, I do not remember one who ap- 
peared to take things more easily than Osman, He 
was a prince, compared with some who go to Sierra 
Leone, and other unhealthy spots. Hearty and strong, 
notwithstanding all that he had gone through; active, 
and able to enjoy the blessings which Providence had 
bestowed upon him; living under British protection, in 
the midst of a land of plenty, one that has been re- 
VOU. Ie u 





290 = TREATMENT OF ENGLISH CAPTIVES. 


nowned for her sages, and is still the wonder and at- 
traction of the whole world,—looked up to by those 
whom it was in his power to relieve,*—being, more- 
over, frequently thrown into the society of intelligent 
persons, who were glad to avail themselves of his ser- 
vices,—and, though last not least, under the influence 
of a beautiful climate, such, that none have any thing 
to fear but the intemperate, what more could he re- 
quire? His habits were entirely changed ; and had he 
returned home after so long an absence, he would pro- 
bably have found his relatives dead or dispersed. 
‘Osman left his country in order to accompany General 
Fraser in his unfortunate expedition in 1807. It is as 
serted that he came out as a private in a Highland 
regiment. However humble his extraction, he was by 
no means wanting in ability ; though he did not seem 
to have enjoyed the advantage of more than a common- 
place education: the greater merit was therefore due 
to him. 

I have already mentioned, that in the affair of 
Rosetta, the British soldiers were shot down in the 
streets like so many rabbits, the enemy deliberately at- 
tacking them from the windows of the houses, unseen. 
‘The slaughter was very considerable, the English were 
entirely deceived as to the intention of the Beys, and 
the relative strength of their opponents. Of those 
that escaped death, many were carried away prisoners 
to Cairo: several, we are told, died on the road from 
fatigueand sickness, and others dropped down exhausted 
from ill-treatment or loss of blood. ‘The number was 
considerably diminished by the time they reached their 


* Hoving, it is said, obtained some smattering of medicine, the Arabs were 
‘wont to spply to him for assistance, and 1 dare say they did not always apply 
io vain, 2 





GENEROSITY OF BURCKHARDT, 291 


place of destination; and on their arrival, it was still 
further reduced, a great many being exposed to the 
fury and fanaticism of the mob; and others being 
sacrificed in the most bratal and savage manner, to 
satiate the revenge of their unfeeling conquerors. We 
are credibly informed, that those who escaped the 
slaughter and survived the issue of such sufferings, 
were sold as slaves, and variously distributed about the 
country; and that they were doomed to pass their 
time in sorrow and captivity, subject to the mercy of 
their hard masters. 

Osman Effendi was one of these: and, judging from 
his robust appearance, I should suppose that he had 
not only been blessed with an excellent constitution, 
but that he had come off with fewer wounds than his 
less fortunate comrades. It is recorded by the old- 
established merchants of Alexandria and Cairo, and 
also by the consuls and others, that that amiable and 
ever-to-be-lamented individual, Burekhardt, or as he 
was always called, “ Scheikh Ibrahim,” discovered our 
countryman in great distress, and filling the office of a 
common slave at Mekka, or D’gedda ; that in the good- 
ness of his heart, he found means to set him free; he 
clothed and fed him, and having fairly liberated him 
from an ignominious bondage, which in time was cal- 
culated to break the spirit of any man, and having 
suffered him to recruit his strength, brought him with 
him to Cairo, where he was presented to Mr. Salt, the 
English consul, who received him, at his own request, 
into his service. Mr. Salt died, and was universally 

d. Osman preferred remaining in the Kast, 
and he has been attached to the British consulate 
ever since. When I left Egypt he was holding the 
office of second drogueman : but his earthly pilgrimage 

u2 





292 wLGHTED amertion! THE PILGRIMAGE 


has since been terminated by the plague. Such are 
the principal facts which relate to Osman Effendi. He 
had been a soldier in his youth, and fought and bled 
with Englishmen, which alone should entitle him to a 
place in our memory. His services, while he lived, 
latterly that is, were almost indispensable to strangers 
in Cairo, and certainly deserve to be acknowledged, 
Due mention should be made of his name, if it be 
only for the sake of recording the philanthropy of 
Burckhardt, and the sufferings of those who, in 
obedience to their country’s will, went forth with 
General Fraser, on the impolitic expedition of 1807. 
It is much to be regretted, that Osman did not em- 
ploy his leisure hours in writing an account of his 
campaigns, and the history of the important events 
and changes which he witnessed during his long resi- 
dence in the East, He must have seen a great deal, 
and have been in possession of many facts which his 
country would value. He was practically acquainted 
with Oriental habits, and might have communicated to 
others the information which he did not himself feel 
disposed to write. His own existence had been more 
than ordinarily chequered: he bad endured much; 
but latterly, when the hand of persecution was ar- 
rested, and he could sit down in peace, and enjoy that 
ease which every man desires after the meridian of his 
days is past, and when his sun is on the decline, he 
surely would have found it pleasing, one would think, 
to have brought the leading events of his history in 
review before him. It is curious to reflect how various 
are the courses which men adopt in their passage 
through the world— how various are the paths which 
lead to happiness if properly and steadily followed 
out;-—some take the high road, others attempt to avail 





OF LiFE!—THE NIZAM UNIFORM. 293 


themselves of short cuts, and fail in consequence ; and 
there are those who prefer, for the sake of variety, the 
ins and outs, the irregularities and changes which those 
who go steadily forward in the straight path, avoid : 
some of these become involved in trouble, and having 
once lost the road, are unable again to find it. There 
are certain vicissitudes which men experience in 
common with each other; but there are many which 
belong to peculiar conditions. . Osman made choice of 
the uncertainty and variety of a soldier's path, and like 
Othello the Moor, throughout his whole career, lacked 
not the opportunity to try his fortitude :—concern- 
ing the pilgrimage of human life, he might justly have 
said with the poet Ferddsi,— 


“ Gabi piabt ber seen, gai zeem ber plat |" 


Sometimes the uaddle bears the weight of the bac, and sometimes the back 
the weight of the maddie. 


According to appointment, we proceeded in the 
evening to the consulate house, where we found Messrs. 
Maltaes and Robinson in conversation with Mr. Cham- 
pion: the trio luxuriously reclining, with hookah 
and t’chibouque! We were soon joined by Gal- 
loway Bey, who was attired in the dress of the “ Nizim 
D'gideed,” or military uniform, the costume due to his 
rank as one of the Pascha’s principal employés. It 
consists of a light jacket, and waistcoat fitted compa- 
ratively close to the body, round which is bound in 
many folds, a handsome shawl of variegated Damascus 
silk; the pantaloons are wide, full, and loose, at the 
upper part, but are made to sit tight to the leg from 
below the knee, by means of hooks and eyes, along 
the ealf to the ankle, which is covered with a white sock. 
The whole dress, with the exception wv ‘is 





294 REASONS FOR ADOPTING THE NATIVE DRESS. 


commonly of fine white linen, and moderately embroi- 
dered with white silk trimming. The simple red 
*“tabousch” or Greek cap suffices for the turban ; the 


some one, on account of the blader 
the numerous braid buttons, the complete maneuy- 
ting of which requires some little time and i 

It is customary for the wearer of this uniform to let 
the moustaches grow to a large size, but to shave off 
the whiskers up to the eyes; there is no absolute 
objection however to the beard, but the moustaches are 
a sine qui non, that is, when they can be had ! 


any risk to which we should otherwise be exposed, (for 
the European garb is rather a protection than not, at 
least in Egypt,) but for the sake of personal comfort. 
Still, however, the idea scemod ridiculous, and we did 


Satiaraeth Gesu wabatnnosl ence adeeaee 





Weds ah WN LAIMA MSMR. 


The Nixaut Dgedeat ” 








FORCE OF HADIT: BARE POLES AND BARE FEBT. 295 


cleanliness and your own convenience! and bear in 
mind, that if you go afterwards to Syria, you will not 
have the same facility afforded you in travelling that 
you will meet with here. Unless you do as we say, 
you may then expect to meet with every variety of 
insult, and in some districts, your life will hardly be 
safe. Besides, in the interior you will find it very hot, 
particularly during the prevalence of the “Qh’ramseen” 
winds ; and you will be glad at times to dispense even 
with shoes and stockings!" And so indeed we were ! 
In Nubia, and occasionally when crossing the Desert, 
we actually did throw off both! So much are men 
children of necessity and habit! And, if any stranger 
had been present to hear the conversation which passed 
on this occasion, and had afterwards seen us, when we 
had resided in the country a few short months,—he 
would scarcely have believed the evidence of his senses; 
so strangely were we metamorphosed! The result of 
all this therefore may easily be guessed. Our unfortu- 
nate locks, which we had so dearly cherished, and which 
had partly borne with us the “heat and burden of the 
day,” ever since our departure from Europe, were all 
but condemned. 


The conversation now turned upon the country gene- 
rally; a subject on which we were deeply interested. The 
questions discussed were intended for our edification, 
and every one gave us the benefit of his experience in 
the most friendly manner. With such excellent advisers, 
therefore, we were not long determining upon a plan. 
eae ace Sepa ict atieabenr i psf episod 

to the interior immediately, that we at once 
eae ake indeed, they were so imp uh 
they should neyer be lost sight ian tl 
teascend the Nile, as 





206 HINTS RESPECTING THE INTERIOR, 


deceived in regard to the navigation ; and they would 
do well to remember that it requires about double the 
time to descend that it does to ascend: notwithstand- 
ing the current is in favor of the former. 

With us there were three very serious considerations, 
Having already entered upon the month of March, the 
river might be expected soon to get very low, a cir 
cumstance which would materially impede our progress, 
if we delayed, in consequence of the variable situation 
of the shallows and sand islands. During low Nile, 
the Cataracts are always more formidable ;—and lastly, 
it was desirable that we should mount, if possible, as 
high as Siofit the capital of Upper Egypt, Man- 
faloit, Girgeh, or at all events, some other large 
town, if not to Ghéneh itself, (which is only half a 
day’s journey from Thebes,) before the Qh'ramseen 
winds (that is to say, the south-east or hot winds of 
the Desert) fairly set in. These winds last fifty days, 
as the term implies, and would blow directly in our 
teeth : moreover, the period of their duration is said to 
constitute the siekly season; for they regularly bring 
with them various kinds of endemic, and not unfre- 
quently, epidemic diseases ; the obvious consequences 
of all which would be, risk—ennui—delay :—to attempt 
to carry sail, would be useless; to row, folly; both the 
wind and the tide being against us,—the former blow- 
ing at intervals a perfect hurricane, elevating dense 
clouds of sand,— and the latter running at the rate of 
from three to five miles an hour. Under such cireum- 
stances, we should have no alternative, but to moor for 
days together to the banks, among mud and bulrushes, 
where there is nothing to amuse, and little to instruct: or 
at some inconsiderable village, where the monotony of 
the scene is varied only by objects of filth, wretchedness, 





THE QU'RAMSEEN WINDS.—PROYISIONS. 297 


and disease. Any situation during the prevalence of 
these winds is bad ;—they are such that no person who 
has not experienced their effects, can form an idea of 
them: and as their grasp is not to be eluded, it is 
surely of some importance to know that its influence 
may be diminished, provided there is a possibility of 
having our wants supplied, and of obtaining a few 
comforts,—such as fresh milk and fruit, especially water- 
melons, (the most inestimable of luxuries at this time,) 
and other cooling vegetables, which areso much needed 
to assuage thirst, and allay the parching fever which all 
without exception must experience, though not perhaps 
in the same degree. Enjoyment, at such a season, is out 
of the question: health is the only consideration ; and 
the traveller feels very little disposed to go any where 
in quest of knowledge; much less to venture within 
the confines of the Desert to visit or explore the 
remains of antiquity. Still, however, it is some conso- 
lation to reflect, that in a large town, there is always a 
diversity of objects to be found to amuse the eye, and 
to divert the attention, although oppressed by a feverish 
and noxious atmosphere. All this is doubly felt by 
the newly imported European, who has not had 
time to get accustomed to the climate, or become 
sufficiently familiarized with dirt and squalid looks, to 
divest himself of gloomy thoughts,—the result of an 
over-excited imagination: and as long as this exe- 
crable weather continues, he is haunted day and night, 
by those sad scourges of the human race— plague, 
cholera, ophthalmia, and famine, the gaunt and mi 
symbols of which he continually beholds at his elbow, 
and in the yisages of all around him. 

We were very happy therefore to have met with 
gentlemen who contemplated a journey to the interior, 





298 FUTURB PLANS, 


and had the same objects in view with ourselves. It 
was thought that, by joining company, we might con- 
tribute in various ways to each other's comfort; ac- 
cordingly we agreed that due measures should be taken 
for our departure; and.as a preliminary, that at our next 
meeting, we should all appear “en costume!” We 
proposed to remain at Cairo a fortnight, with a view 
of obtaining the necessary information relative to the 
country through which we had to pass, and that we 
should then proceed to Thebes, and the Cataracts, 
without delay. We desired our droguemans to make 
enquiry at Boulac of the proper authorities about the 
Cand’gias, and to report to us as soon as they had 
obtained any suitable intelligence. We also enlisted 
Osman in the cause, and begged that he would render 
us his powerful aid during our stay in the great city, 
as it was far from our intention to be idle: in proof 
of which, that we had resolved to commence opera- 
tions the next morning, by having our heads shaved! 
“ Mash’allah |" 

We now took our leave, promising soon to repeat 
our visit. Mobammed and Selim were in attendance 
to conduct us home.* The day had been extremely 
hot; and after sitting so long in “smoky conclave,” 
we found the air of the corridor very refreshing. 
Lighting our lanterns, we traversed the court; and 
passing under the portico of the adjacent building, 
entered upon the dark and silent avenues of the city. 
Notwithstanding the serenity of the atmosphere, 
the dew was falling fast, and the night was. chill, 
‘There was no moon; the stars and planetary bodies 
shone forth with their accustomed brilliancy; but 
our path was obscured by the close and lofty walls of 

* Selim was tho servant of our futare companions. 





SCRIPTURE ELUCIDATED. 299 


the houses, from which there was scarcely the glimmer 
of a single light:—for although it is true that the 
Egyptians adhere most religiously to the ancient cus- 
tom of burning lamps all night long in every inhabited 
apartment, those who are passing in the streets, do not 
benefit by them, as the windows open generally into 
courts within, and are furnished with shutters and a 
Jattice.* Abaziah met his death by falling through 
one of these: and the mother of Sisera is described 
as addressing her ladies from the lattice. The houses 
now, as formerly, are seldom more than two or three 
stories high: the kitchens are on the ground-floor ; 
the upper rooms are invariably the largest and best ; 
they open upon the roof;-and here the people often 
transact business, eat, sleep, and perform their devo- 
tions. Very many allusions are made to it in the 
Bible. It was from such a roof or terrace that David 
first beheld Bathsheba ; and whenever any thing is to 
be proclaimed, seen, or heard, the inmates commonly 
assemble on the ‘house-tops.” Sometimes a light 
shed or cupola is erected there to keep off the sun, 
or as a place for retirement and contemplation. It 
is better,’ says Solomon, “to dwell in a corner of the 
house-top, than with a brawling woman in a wide 
house.” Prov. xxi. 9. 

* This oustom explains roany passages of scriptures See Job xxi. 17, —aviii. 
SemProvs alll, 9—1 Kings al. I6omTer. axve 10, 1, 


+ See alao, 2 Kings i. 2—Judges y. 28.—laniah sai. 1—Deut, xxit. 8— 
1 Sam, ix, 25,—Aots x, 9.—Matt, g- 27.—axir, 17.-—Mark air, 1, 15, &e. 





CHAPTER XI. 


VARIETIES OF ORIENTAL COSTUME—THE BEARD— 
BARBERS AND COPFEE-HOUSES—ARAB SURGERY— 
MINTS TO TRAVELLERS—THE PHILOSOPHY OF 
CLOTHING—SCRUPLES OF THE ANCIENTS CONCERN= 
ING DRESS— COTTUN—WOOL—F LAX —MANUFACTO= 
RIES—REMARKS ON CLIMATE—SCRIPTURE CORRO- 
BORATED—SCRIBES OF THE EAST—PREPARATIONS 
FOR THE INTERIOR—HIRIN CAND'GIAS, ETc. 


Tue following morning found us busily discussing 
the subject of our evening debate : for there were still 
two or three Knotty points to be considered, before we 
could put our resolutions in force. ‘The chief of these 
had reference to the barber. Before this highly impor- 
tant personage could be summoned, it was necessary 
to determine what kind of dress we intended to adopt. 
All persons shave the head; but all do not wear a 
beard. Those who choose the “ Nizam,” or modern 
military uniform, neither require a turban nor a beard : 
but moustaches are indispensable ; and the sides of the 
face and chin are closely shorn, Those who assume 
the long dress of the civilian or merchant, most fre- 
quently—I might almost say invariably, let the beard 
grow; and these always wear a turban. The chief 
peculiarity of the Mamldk garb, is in the trousers, 
which are enormously broad and full: and although 





USES AND ADVANTAGES OF THE BEARD. 301 


very useful on horse-back, are a little inconvenient at 
first, when walking. The turban and the beard are 
essential parts of the costume: though I have seen 
instances in which both were omitted. 

If a person intends to reside a very short time in the 
East, it is of little moment what plan he adopts: but 
he who purposes to himself a long residence, would do 
well to consider the relative advantages of each. To 
me this was of considerable importance, as I expected 
to travel in the more remote districts, where there is a 
great deal of fanaticism and superstition: and as [ 
should have to act the “H'akkim,” it was desirable 
to inspire confidence, and command the esteem of the 
multitude. I determined, therefore, that my dress 
should correspond with the character of the wearer; 
and as a beard is sure to gain for the stranger a degree 
of respect which he could not experience without it, 
and as it would save me a great deal of trouble, I at once 
decided to let mine grow. In the East, those who 
have no beard are often slighted. Thus, on a recent 
cceasion, the Officers of the national guard having 
given themselves “ airs," Mohammed Ali, ordered 
them to have ** their beards shaved off,” as a mark of 
his displeasure. The greatest indignity that can 
happen to a Persian, is to have his “zulfs” or curls 
clipped, and when a man has done any thing 
unworthy of himself, he is said to have “a cow’s beard,” 
—as he is supposed to have disgraced his own; and 
the hair which grows about the chin of a cow is always 
ragged, poor, and seanty. Every one knows with what 
veneration the Turks and Jews regard the beard; and 
we read that Nehemiah on his return to Jerusalem, 
after the Captivity, was so indignant at the misconduct 
of the people, that he “smote certain of them, and 





302 sou DEGG’N, AND SCHEIKH IBRAHIM. 


plucked off their hair.”* Many of the Arabs have no 
beards, therefore they honour those who have; and 
when a man once suffers his beard to 

think it a disgrace to him to cut it off. But if n 
Egypt it insures him respect, in Syria and the Desert 
it may protect his life. ‘There is no doubt that a beard 
adds greatly to the dignity of the person; and I canno 
believe that it was designed by nature that it should be 
cut off. We are all creatures of habit ; and those who 
are acctistomed tosee the beard, admire it. Thesam 
remark applies to the subject of dress. None who a1 
in the habit of admiring the flowing robes of the Gre 
and Romans, will, for a moment, defend the formal, 
studied, and prim fashions of Europe, which hat 
neither elegance nor ease to recommend them, and 
assuredly nothing of the picturesque. 

What with our tight clothes, and beardless chins, it 
is no wonder that we should be considered by the 
Orientals ‘effeminate, and indecent,” 

«plucked pigeons,” “singed apes,” and “ mangy curs,” 
and be described by them as coming from a country 
in which ‘‘cloth is dear!”—Mons. Dussapp, a truly 
amiable and philanthropic character, who resided many 
years at Cairo in a medical capacity, was quite revered 
by the inhabitants, no less for his virtues than on 
account of his beard, which, like that of Sueno, the 
first Danish chief who invaded England, was forked. 
It divided into two parts, and extended to his knees: 
and such was its beauty and venerable aspect, that he 
was distinguished among the Arabs by the title of 
« Abou Degg’n,” or * Pere de Barbe.” 

Poor Burckhardt, who was better known in Egypt 
as “Scheikh Ibrahim,” found his beard a great pro- 
Ga Nema 23: Seo ao 2 Sense; Sat 28)90-— dg. IY end 





ARAB VENERATION OF THE BEARD. 303 


tection to him, and those who have read his Travels, 
will remember, that on one occasion, a certain 
chief doubting that he was a Mussulmaun, insulted him 
by pulling his beard, which was instantly resented by a 
blow—no further doubts were then entertained. To 
stroke the beard, or gently touch the end of it, is 
regarded as a compliment ; and it isa common practice 
among the Arabs, thus to lay hold of it, admire, and 
smooth down the beard, when endeavouring to coax 
and flatter, or make a bargain. It throws a man off 
his guard, and opens his heart. An Arab would 
almost as soon be deprived of a limb, as be shorn of 
his beard : for independently of the disgrace which the 
sons of Islam attach to such an operation, he feels that 
he is severed from an object to which he is bound by 
the strongest ties of affection. It is his constant friend 
and companion, let his circumstances alter as they may. 
He confers with it in difficulties and doubt; he imparts 
to it all his secrets, it affords him diversion in solitude, 
and in the hour of adversity and trial, it becomes his 
solace and resource. When thoughtful, he grasps it; 
when pleased, he strokes it; when vexed and excited, 
he pulls it. It is held sacred by every class, and it 
is referred to as a token of fidelity and honour. To 
swear by the beard, the beard of one’s father, and the 
beard of the Prophet, is at all times sufficiently 
binding: and he who possesses a fine beard is invari- 
ably a person of commanding exterior, and an object 
of respect;—for he cannot be very young, and he is 
therefore supposed to have some wisdom, and a certain 
degree of experience in human affairs. 

In most parts of the East, those men who are by 
nature beardless, are considered insignificant; and in 
Persia, where this graceful appendage is so highly 





304 “No sEaRDs !—PERSIAN MALEYOLENCE. 


esteemed, they become objects of ridicule, and are 
quaintly denominated * Birish,” “ No beards." —It 
may well be supposed, then, that any slight offered to 
the beard in such countries, is an unpardonable offence ; 
and yarious epithets are applied by individuals, in token 
of their contempt or regard, according as the case may 
be. Thus, to “laugh at his beard," and to “make play 
with another man’s beard,” signify to mock or cajole, 
and are a direct insult to manhood.* 

All these weighty considerations having caused me 
to decide in favour of the beard, I was now prepared 
to make choice of a suitable costume; and before I 
submitted to the operation of the tonsor, it became 
necessary that I should be provided with at least that 
part of the dress which was destined to protect my 
denuded pate from the sun’s rays, Bradford's senti- 
ments being in accordance with mine, we desired 


Mohammed to lead the way to the clothes bazaar, the 
Monmouth Street of Cairo, where our eyes were 
dazzled with such finery, that to niake a selection to 
one’s taste was by no means easy. At last, each of us 


= The Porvians not unfrequently reproach one another by such expressions ax 
the following -—"" Your beard is Iong enough, you are not a child.’” ‘* What is 
the use of a beard whon an empty sconce is tied to the end of it?'"¢ And when 
they wish to scoff at their enemics, they seem to vie with one another in the 
choice of the most opprobriows and polnted terms. The following elegant 
specimen may suffice for the reat.—!* Their very look is unclean, and their beards 
‘are not fit to be brooms to a polluted sink.’” “ By tho blessing of the prophet, 
‘® hundred dogs one after another, will make n corner stone of his beard, and 
‘every day bring their friends to follow their exampls,""+ Whensoever they are 
offended, their desire seema to be, to vent their spleen upon the “beard,” ae 
affording them the most exquisite gratiscation of their malice! In like manner, 
they amuse themelves at the expense of the unhappy Franks, who, exhibiting not 
the slightest evidence of this (dolof * Persian's fancy, ure supposed to bave been 
duly prepared for certain offices in thelr master's Harem. They hold thom, 
therefore, in dtter contempt ; and it ix not until through some lucky chance, the 
‘same individuals have permitted their chins to sprout, that they oan bring them= 
selves to believe that such egregious infidels did reslly possess the rudiments of « 
fature beard concealed within the aoilof their “dogs’ skin !"" 


+ Praser, Morier, Se, 








DESCRIPTION OF A “KNIGHT OF MEKKA.” 305 


picked out a double suit, viz: one of cloth in the 
Mamliik fashion, and one of white linen, being the 
uniform of the “ Nizam D’gideed’’—either of which was 
to be enveloped at pleasure, in the folds of the white 
“ bernous” of wool and camel’s-hair, or silk. I found 
the Mamlik costume so preferable in every respect, 
that I soon laid aside the latter: besides, the comfort 
of the turban to those who travel in a tropical climate 
is so great, that I would not have been without one on 
any account. On our return we dismissed Mohammed 
for one of the most experienced barbers—I suppose he 
introduced a friend of his own :—no matter, he accom- 
plished his task like a genuine professor of his art, so 
we did not cross-examine him respecting the course 
and term of his studies ; taking for granted that he was 
duly qualified, and possessed his diploma. But, fancy 
preparing, for the first time in one’s life, to place one’s 
scalp at the entire mercy of one of these knights of the 
razor !—a Had'gj too—one who was bound by the laws 
of his religion to hate you !—fancy the fatal instrament 
flourishing over your head in the hands of such a 
creature, —the said instrument reaping faster than any 
patent sickle in Christendom! But, like it or not like 
it, it must be endured by all who propose to travel in 
the East with comfort to themselves, and especially if 
they wear the turban ; for they could not endure their 
hair beneath it. 

The scene which now took place was ludicrous 
enough, and might well be compared to a preparation 
for private theatricals, or admission toa lunatic asylum 5 
and we could hardly believe that, once equipped, we 
were to sally forth to the busy world again. But L 
must not forget our friend the Had’gj! He had made 
the Holy Pilgrimage, and assumed to himself the 

VOL. I. x 





306 “A coop LATHER Is HALF THE shave!” 


privilege of wearing the green turban. He was some- 
what below the middle stature. Nature had not been 
very prodigal of her gifts. He had an unsightly 
hump upon his back, and the small-pox had made sad 
havoc among features which were irregular and coarse, 
and deeply furrowed by the hand of time and adversity. 
His general aspect was accordingly any thing but 
prepossessing. He was unusually grave for a barber; 
but he had not left his tongue on the tomb of the 
Prophet ; and could we have conversed freely with him 
without the aid of an interpreter, we should bave 
doubtless drawn him out a little more than we. did, 
He was decorated with the various insignia of his office, 
and from his girdle was suspended along, leather strap, 
which was used to set his razor, before and after work. 
He did not spare either soap or labour ;—for there is 
an old saying, that “a good lather is half the shave,” 
—and certainly he did the adage ample justice: for 
my poor head was never so well soaped before, I believe: 
not even when under the merciless jurisdiction of a 
veteran nurse, or the chief matron of scholastic dis- 
cipline. 

‘The operation of shaving is commonly performed at 
the bath ; but this being our first admission to Arab 
practices, we thought it best to conceal our awkward- 
ness, by taking our first lesson in private. It is indeed 
no trifling thing—and I was very glad to be emanci- 
pated from such thraldom; but I must confess I felt 
very light and comfortable when the ceremony was 
over. It is truly astonishing with what rapidity and 
precision the Oriental barbers operate! It is a very 
rare thing that they make the slightest scratch; and 
yet they seem to shave so close, as almost to carry 
away the skin as well. Some of the rich: sensualists, 





THE BFFECT OF CLIMATE ON THE HAIR. 307 


the inequalities of whose visage would set a conjuror 
at defiance, must give them, I think, a great deal of 
trouble: and then again, there is a remarkable difference 
inthe respective qualitiesof the hair. Some persons have 
very strong, harsh hair, whilst that of others is soft and 
weak. The quality of the hair may be said to depend 
on constitutional causes, which have undoubtedly more 
to do with it than climate and modes of life. The effect 
— a change of climate &c., is not always 
asting, and it is seldom very considerable, provided 
the constitution remain unimpaired. A long residence 
in a hot and dry country, will, it is true, render the 
hair harsh, frizly, dark, and even thin; whilst in low, 
damp, and cold countries, it becomes lighter, soft, and 
disposed to curl. The same may also be said of the 
habits of life, and the condition of the mind. We are 
told that the more civilized the people, the finer is the 
quality of the hair; but this is very far from being a 
general fact. The most beautiful specimens of hair 
are frequently to be found among the lower ranks of 
society, but not among the dissipated: and we may 
rest assured, that whatever be the station of society, 
and whatever the pains taken by combing, and brushing, 
to improve the quality of the hair, little benefit will be 
derived, unless the general health be good, and the 
mind at ease. The attention must be directed to con- 
stitutional causes, and not to accidental circumstances, 
No person whois in the habit of frequenting hot rooms, 
or keeping late hours, whether for the purpose of study, 
or any other species of dissipation, can expect to have 
a fine head of hair.—A wholesome and nutritious diet, 
early rising, exercise in the open air, temperance, and 
a mind at ease, are the only things which conduce to 
happiness and health; and unless the functions of the 
x2 





308 CorPPEE HOUSES—sCENE IN A BARBER'S suoP! 


body are duly performed, it would be folly to expect 
the skin to be soft, or the hair sleek. To see one of 
these Oriental Figaros in full operation, is entertaining 
enough. Their dwellings are generally situated near 
a bath, and a coffee shop; and like these, are, as in 
the countries of Europe, regular places of rendezvous 
for gossips and news-mongers. No wonder then that 
such gentry are loquacious, shrewd, and flippant: for 
they seem to make it their business to know something 
of every body and every thing. They visit, or are 
visited by, persons of all conditions; so they find it 
their interest to have a kind word for each, humour 
their caprives, be offended at nothing, always cheerful 
and buoyant, obsequious, and jocose. The shop of a 
barber is generally furnished with guests. When a 
people have but few resources within themselves, they 
like to pass their leisure hours in chatting with their 
neighbours; and a few years ago, when cofice shops 
were not sanctioned by the government as they are now, 
the loiterers, of which there are so many in every 
Oriental city, were wont to repair to the residence of 
their barber, who generally contrived to have a 
charcoal fire, and felt himself at liberty to regale his 
customers with a * Find'gian” or so of their favourite 
beverage, if it liked him so to do. This was so 
universally the case, that at last, the government saw 
the propriety of licensing regular coffee houses. Let 
the reader picture to himself then, a motley group of 
individuals who have just dropped in” to learn the 
news of the day; some squatting on the ground, and 
others standing about pipe in hand, the apartment filled 
with smoke; and in the midst, the barber in full cry, 
responding to half-a-dozen queries at one breath, 
leaning with “elbows bare” over the body of his victim, 





THE HAIR-TUPT OF ALI!—PaRapisE! 309 


whose head is nearly all the while smothered in foam, 
and seems to repose upon a large pewter dish, which 
being hollowed out at the edge, to fit the neck, is suppor- 
ted by the patient’s own hands: it is truly a grotesque 
object, and appears to float as it were, in a mediter- 
ranean sea of froth and suds, with very much the 
aspect of a large syllabub, or a bundle of whipped 
cream; the more solid parts rising at intervals, like 
the tipsy cake in a trifle. He is condemned to bea 
listener, by reason of the eternal contiguity of the 
barber's brush, or the still more deadly weapon which 
his hand displays. As soon as the sprouting hair is 
removed, he is almost drenched with hot water, and his 
head and face are so completely kneaded, rubbed, and 
polished, that he is nearly choked for want of breath. 
The more rigid Mussulmauns, especially the followers 
of Ali, allow a tuft of long hair to grow from the upper 
and back part of the head, in conformity, as it is said, 
with a superstitious notion, that “because the Prophet 
went to heaven on a camel, so, at the last day, the true 
believer will be drawn up to Paradise, by a lock of his 
hair!” The Greeks suffer their locks to hang down 
the neck, and do not often clip them. A Frank who 
adopted European fashions, would find it a difficult 
matter to get a native barber to cut his hair: the 
man would not know which way to begin. I was once 
in such a dilemma even in Hungary. Many of the 
“Magyars” adopt the same custom as the Greeks :-— 
they allow the hair to flow over their shoulders in great 
profusion ; and when I applied to a man who I was 
informed, was the only person in the town who was in 
the habit of * cutting hair,”—he pulled out an immense 
pair of sheep-shears, and with these he was yery orderly 
commencing his work. When I heard the sou 





$10 THE “FIGAnos" OF HUNGARY—ANECDOTE. 


the huge, unwieldly blades, I started with surprise,— 
which he observing, only smiled, and assured me that 
“1 had indeed nothing to fear!*”” 

Toffered to lend him a pair of English scissars; but 
he declined, assuring me, that he never employed any 
other than those he held in his hand. So I thought Hf 
was best to let him work with his own tools: and I will 
do him the justice to say, that he accomplished his task 
very well. But it seemed at every stroke of the 
shears, as if one of my depending auricles would at 


‘* E mast confess, nt the moment, it brought to my mind an adventure which 
happened some years ago, to.a gentleman in London, not far from the Royal 
» He went one morning to be shaved, on was customary in those days. 
‘He was speedily dimombered of bis coat, and cravat, and his head and neok 
‘wore laid bare in the orthodox style, ‘The whole parapboraalia of cloths, napkis 
and basin being duly adjusted, the barber advanced to bis customer, who had 
‘unsuspectingly taken up the newepaper.—" Now, Sir! Permettez—as the French 
sy—A propos! you have been in France, ‘and commenced \nthering)— 
queer people thoxo Frouchmon, Sir—eapital cooks, very ean eres 
Peder wllo= sharp bliow lash ontaparte™ ‘and so he was ravoing an, 
Gaeta fans te pies oe Ge 
@ single word, could only look what his feelings prompted him to otter, He 
thought the man's manner very odd, and there was a wildnees 


Lubility.  Copital stuf that almond soup—beautiful lather—no 

made such a lathor, or I'll be hanged—By the bye, talking of hanging, Sir—What 
do you think of hanging, Sir?—(stropping his razor with grest veliomence,)— 
beautiful neck yours, Sir—Just do for the guillotine—(here the patient's wig fell 
off) —Bless mo, you woar & wig !—How long have you worn a wig ?—Now, Sir— 
Sit sill, Sir= (flourishing his razor high io the air,)—wear a wig indeed — very 
‘odd, hin ha !—beautifol nock—ba! ha! ‘sit still, Sir—don't stir—H'l noon do your 
business for you''—and s0 saying, was about to commence operations in « right 
gallant style, when the barber's wife entered from the back parlour, and peroeiving 


do cxrry on mortal strange, ‘oat he fs quite Aarmles "Our poor fiend instantly 
‘threw down the c o et 


‘fright, that he was without his wig, that be was muflled up to the throat like an 
musmimy, and that he had « head as white as any snow ball. 
‘Had I then observed nny strangeness of tone or manner in ray barbere 
arp, the Hlengeres, 3 90, sigh BN ben feted Ge Seat pnp 





ARAB SURGERY—CUPPING AND BLEEDING. 311 


Jeast be slit; and if I escaped with my head, I should 
certainly go home without my ears. 

Barbers in the East, as in Europe in the olden time, 
generally understand the arts of cupping, bleeding, and 
tooth-drawing ; some of them pretend to set bones, and 
they are not unfrequently applied to for “ nostrums ;"" 
they are also expected to dress wounds and extract 
balls. Their manner of cupping is very simple; rude, 
but efficacious. They first apply a buffalo’s horn to 
the skin by its broad end; the narrow end remaining 
open, the air is sucked out by the mouth. Atmo- 
spherie pressure causes the skin to rise; the lips being 
withdrawn, the horn is removed, and the parts beneath 
are scarified by means of a razor: the horn is instantly 
applied again, and a second vacuum being created by 
aid of the lips, the blood flows. Cupping, and coun- 
ter-irritation, especially by the ‘*moxa’ or the actual 
cautery, are had recourse to by these people, on almost 
every occasion, and they often do a great deal of good. 
In Persia and China, blood-letting is highly objected to, 
especially among the great, chiefly on superstitious 
grounds: and the same prejudice is believed to have 
facilitated, if it did not cause, the death of the late 
Princess Mirhmah, a daughter of the Sultan Mah- 
moud; she was the wife of Sayeed Pascha, who held 
the office of Seraskier, and so great a favorite, that 
when she died, a royal firmaun was issued, interdicting 
all singing and music, and every other demonstration of 
joy, for several days to come. It seems that the 
princess was delivered of a still-born infant, and 
symptoms of inflammation arising after a lapse of three 
days, the physician advised that she should be bled. 
The proposal being however so novel, and so much 
at variance with established usage, (for it is thought 





312 THE CHOICE OF WEARING APPAREL. 


presumptious to spill the blood of a princess,) thewishes 
of the H’akkim were resisted to the last, andthe royal 
patient sank into the grave, another victim to the 
hydra of superstition. 

In Turkey you may generally recognize a barber's 
shop by the appearance of a long handkerchief floating 
in front of it: but in China, this class of persons are 
not regarded with an equal degree of favor; for they 
may be said to follow a wandering profession, in as 
much as they go from street to street, armed with 
basin, stool, and pot, and loiter about the bazaars till 
they are hired. They are known by their bell, and 
perform their office in the open air,* 

In selecting wearing apparel, something more is 
necessary than to please the eye, and gratify the fancy. 
Nor is it sufficient to consider the fashion which may 
be most acceptable to ourselves and the people of the 
country. We must take into account the material, and 
its colour, as also the season of the year, and the hour 
of the day. I have already mentioned that in Egypt 
and all tropical climates, it is of the utmost importance 
to guard against the heat of the sun by day, and the 
heavy dews of the night. The dress must be regulated 
accordingly. Different temperaments have different 
powers of resisting the extremes of heat and cold, and 
although perhaps no people can bear these extremes so 
well as the English, it is imperative on all men to keep 
a strict watch over themselves, and not to disregard the 
dictates of common sense. The finest constitutions 
haye sunk under the pernicious effects of rashness as 

* How different in the condition of barbers In the north and west! We never soe 
the pole and basin now! Such emblems bxve lang born discarded} and lately 
a deputy of the chamber of Darmstadt has claimed the execution of « remarkable 


teiviloge existing in the town of Hesso—vis, the lorying covery indivi- 
dual who may be shaved by any one except the barber of the town ! 





THE PHILOSOPHY OF cLOTHING—opgEsITY. 313 


well as of intemperance: and the inconvenience which 
is occasionally felt in low latitudes, is not to be attri- 
buted to want of “strength” or “stamina” as 

men sometimes argue; and so presuming upon the 
vigour of youth, persuade themselyes that nothing can 
hurt ¢hem. Alas! how many have fallen a sacrifice to 
their own imprudence! Much of our comfort un- 
questionably depends on the nature of our dress; but 
we are not always equally susceptible of atmospheric 
changes: our feelings are materially influenced by the 
general health ; and the condition of the skin is regu- 
lated as much by the state of the stomach as of the 
atmosphere. We cannot therefore be too particular 
respecting diet ; especially as, in all hot countries, there 
is a great disposition to obesity, a circumstance which 
should put us still more on our guard.* 

According to the experiments of Count Rumford, 
the more flocculent the material, the greater is the 
degree of heat retained by the human body, because 
such substances are bad conductors of heat, and there- 
fore do not readily convey the caloric to the atmosphere 
without. Thus then eider-down, feathers, wool, &c. 
afford much warmer clothing than cotton or silk. ‘The 
colour too has a great deal to do with it. Experiment 
and facts go to prove that all light colours, and white 


* Mr. Laird, in his Narrative of the last Expedition up the Niger, alludes to the 
tame subject, Every one," be says, “appeared to have a most unaccountable 
propensity to become fat. 1 did not eat one half that I had been accustomed to 
in England, and yet could not keep myvelf from increasing. Dr. Briggs wae 
pedi in the same way: und as for Lander, he was os broad os he was long.” 

‘with poor Briggs at the University of Cambridge. Having 
iene East, Twas enabled to give him a few weeful hints: but un« 
‘happily for hin and his country, he wan one of the first to suffer. He wus 
avery amiable und enterprising young man, temperate in his habits, and wel, 
qualified for the undertaking in which he had embarked. His loss is ranch to be 
regretted, and had he been spared to accomplish the object of his wishes, 1 think 
that society would have had good reason to acknowledge bis services. 





314 RELIGIOUS SCRUPLES OF THE ANCIENTS. 


more particularly, reflect heat most copiously, and 
absorb little; they will consequently be the coolest. 
On the other hand, black, and all the darker colours, 
absorb very freely, but reflect little. So that if we 
would proceed scientifically, (and we cannot do better,) 
we should select light colours for the summer, and 
those which are darker, for the winter. These facts 
admit of demonstration by a very simple experiment. 
It is only necessary to place pieces of different coloured 
cloth and linen on the surface of the snow, at noon- 
day ; and especially when the atmosphere is clear, and 
the sun at its meridian. The black cloth will melt the 
snow beneath it, in less time than any of the others; the 
blue next, then green, then yellow:—the white not at 
all. White reflects so powerfully, that it will form the 
coolest dress, and particularly when the atmosphere is 
so brilliantly clear as it is in Egypt. ‘The ancients, we 
are told, had many scruples on the subject of dress. 
Some animals being regarded as unclean, it was thought 
profane to convert any tissue of their body into wearing 
apparel; and in more modern times, “ Had’gj Baba” 
who immortalized himselfby coming to England with 
the Persian embassy, declared, that his master was 
highly incensed when on his way between the sea-port 
and the imperial city, “the great-grandfather of all the 
infidels attempted to rub his back with a brush made of 
the hairs of the unclean beast!!"* According to 
Apuleius, wool being taken from slaughtered animals, 
was not in repute among the Egyptians as an article of 
clothing, and by the priests it was deemed profane to 
employ it as such, Thus, we read thatethey were 
accustomed to clothe themselves in linen.t This 
notion very generally prevailed in the East; and in 
* Morier. + Apuleius, p. Gt. Die. Leg. woh. i, p. 318. 





THE “COAT WITHOUT sEAM"—SACK-cLoTH.” 315 


conformity therewith, Eli made Samuel a linen ephod.* 
Other instances might be quoted as illustrative of the 
eame thing. They occur continually, both in the Old 
and New Testament. Divested of this superstition, the 
Egyptians of the present day, donot hesitate to employ 
animal wool as an article of clothing; though in the 
interior, they prefer cotton-wool and flax, when they 
can get them, these being more perfect conductors, 
and therefore better adapted to the climate. The 
Arabs of the Desert commonly clothe themselves also 
in manufactures of camel’s hair; and the article most 
prized by them, is the “ Haik"’ or cloak of that material : 
it is either black or white, with or without broad stripes; 
it consists of a square piece, with holes for the arms, 
and has no seam. The Druses of Lebanon, and the 
people of Mesopotamia not only wear a coat which is 
‘without seam,” but ‘of many colours,” having ya- 
riegated stripes proceeding to a point, downwards from 
the shoulders, like a reversed pyramid. This is 
believed to be of the same description as that bestowed 
by Jacob on his favorite child, We are informed 
that our Saviour also wore “a coat without seam, woven 
from the top throughout,” and that in the wilderness, 
St. John “had his raiment of camel’s hair, and a 
leathern girdle about his loins." The “sackcloth” of the 
Scriptures was a similar manufacture, but of the rough- 
est and coarsest kind, like that which is worn by 
dervishes and reputed saints. It is still used for sacks 
and tent-covers.t We can easily understand the 
necessity of a girdle: no persons with loose, flowing 
robes can engage in active occupations without first 
* girding up the loins,”"—that is, taking up a portion of 
their dress, out of their way. Some lay aside their 
* 1 Samuel ti 18, Gen, xxxvl, 3.—Jobn xis. 28.—Mott. ii, 4.—Tanlih ax, 2, 


ui 





316 “THE GIRDLE ’—corron—wooL—FLAx. 


outer garment for the time; others prepare to put 
forth their strength, by fastening a belt or girdle round 
the waist, and by laying bare the arms to the shoulder. 
Thus, Elijah “ girded up his loins, and ran before Ahab 
to Jezreel;"—and the sacred writings abound in pas- 
sages which, like this, illustrate the habits of those who 
wear the Oriental costume. Some of them are to be 
taken figuratively.” 

To the fertility of the cotton-plant, Egypt is in- 
debted for one of the most wonderful of her resources. 
Enormous quantities of cotton are annually exported 
to Europe ; and the progress of the arts and manufae- 
tures in our industrious northern regions has been such, 
that the produce of the seed of this beautiful plant, 
(the Gossypium, ) has been converted into clothing that 
may be adapted to every clime. The world are greatly 
indebted to Sir Richard Arkwright for the discovery of 
his machine for abbreviating and simplifying the art of 
carding and spinning the cotton wool: and I have 
already mentioned, that Mohammed Ali has availed 
himself of the services of our countrymen, and adopt- 
ed the use of machinery for this and similar purposes 
in Egypt. He established several large manufactories 
at Cairo and other parts, and no traveller should omit 
to inspect them. Until lately, they were in a most 
thriving condition ; but, as I shall soon have occasion 
to shew, the works were entirely abandoned for some 
time, and the labourers transformed into soldiers. 

Flox (Lineum) which is now used extensively for 
wearing apparel, is not only cultivated for home 


* 1 Kings xvili, 46, — Luke wil. $5.37, John xxi. 18, —Tnaio ¥, 27. — 
Paalws xviii. 32—39,—aciii, 1.—1 Poter i, 13,—Isaiah xi. 5,—Lil, 10,—Epbess 
wi. Heb. il. 10, 

t Ses the work of Mr, G, Gliddon, tate United States Consul nt Cairo, 

The reader may remember that we took out ten of our best English work~ 
‘men, together with a quantity of esachinery in the ' Bristol | * 





THE ARTS AND MANUFACTURES, 317 


consumption, but is also ranked among the principal 
export articles of the country. This subject is admir- 
ably described by Dr. Darwin, in his ‘* Loves of the 
Plants.""* He tells us that the flax was first found in 
Egypt; and nothing can be more beautiful than his 
illustration of the various processes of spinning and 
weaving. I regret, that I cannot introduce it here. 
‘The flax is a delicate, elegant little plant, bearing a 
lively, blue, bell-shaped flower. It may be seen on 
either side of the Nile, adorning in great profusion, the 
rich lawns of the Delta, and extending in graceful 
plots, even to the water’s edge. We cannot wonder 
that so lovely a prospect should engage the poet's 
fancy, and that the attention of mankind should be so 
early directed to this modest little flower —flourish- 
ing so abundantly around them, Nature prompted that 
it was designed for important uses, ‘There is much truth, 
and great beauty manifested in this evident adapta- 
tion of the gifts of Providence to the wants of man. 


* Tnventreas of the woof, fair Lina flings 
‘The flying shattle through the dancing strings — 
. . * . . 


‘Taught by her labours, from the fertile soit 

Immortal Isis clothed the bank of Nile 5 

‘And fair Arachne with ber rival loom 

Found undeserved s melancholy doom.'"t 
Thus, according to the Egyptian mythology, not only 
was this tutelar deity pleased to render the flax and 
cotton plants so productive, but to have invented also 
the arts of spinning and weaving. For we read, that 
notwithstanding the scruples which subsequently arose, 
and the fastidiousness which the people evinced—until 
her time, mankind had either no clothing at all, or 
were clad in the skins of wild animals. The fable of 


# Vole fi. ps 80. f Darwin, vol. ii 





318 NECESSITY OF GUARDING AGAINST.COLD. 


Arachne is supposed to have been created for the 
purpose of complimenting the goddess on the introduc- 
tion of these rival arts, which were so beautiful as to 
surpass in fineness, the web of the spider! 

‘The ancient Egyptians associated every thing with 
Nature and religion, and especially in regard to the 
productions of the Nile, Isis herself was a creation of 
the fancy, a type of universal Nature; and the priests 
did well to inspire the votaries of their religion with 
love and gratitude to the Divine Being whose genial 
influence they felt, and believed to be the source of 
every good—as often as an opportunity occurred. 

It is a mistake to suppose that thin clothing can be 
worn with impunity at all hours of the day, or at all 
seasons of the year. It is often very cold indeed at 
night: after sunset, the thermometer will fall rapidly 
several degrees in a short time, and the dew descends 
80 fast in consequence, that if we be not provided with 
a suitable mantle, and a good thick turban, we may 
depend upon it, we shall pay the penalty of our impru- 
dence. It is true that the Arab soldiers now wear no 
turban, and their head is defended only by the tabousch ; 
but that is no argument; it is perhaps right that they 
should be inured to all sorts of risks; but even they 
will wrap their head at night, in the hood attached to 
their bernous ; and there is no one of the natives, what- 
ever be his rank, who will not protect the head, as 
much as possible, during the extremes of heat and eold. 
Those who do not, or cannot, are sure to suffer from 
ophthalmia ; and there is not a more frequent cause of 
fever in the East than this. People are sometimes 
tempted to sleep on the terraces of the houses; and in 
such a climate, I do not wonder at it; but when they 
do so, they cannot be too particular about covering the 





COMFORTS AND PRIVATIONS. 319 


head, eyes, and chest. I may say with great truth, that 
during the time that Twas in the East, I have slept 
nearly as ofien in the open air as in a house; and 
when I wasin Palestine, Syria, and Asia Minor, having 
been robbed of my tent with other property, Tfrequent- 
ly passed the night on the sea-shore, among mountains, 
or in desert places, beneath the wide canopy of heaven: 

yet by taking these precautions, I avoided many evils 
which others, under similar circumstances, haye endured. 
Nevertheless, I did not entirely escape the effects of 
climate, and excesses like these, which I was bound to 
commit. During this period of my travels, I had no 
companion but a servant and a surogee.* Months 
passed away, and I did not know what it was to stretch 
my limbs upon a bed, although (in Asia Minor at least) 
the rainy season had set in, and I was suffering from 
the consequences of a severe attack of remittent fever, 
and compelled to undergo every privation and fatigue ; 
the whole country being mountainous and rocky, 
entirely destitute of inns, or roads, and infested with 
thieves:—and to complete the sum of our miseries, 
the rivers were hardly fordable, and we could seldom 
get any thing to eat but bad bread, a few olives, and 
some coffee, at the wretched places through which we 
had oceasion to pass. 

I mention these things now, that the traveller may 
know what to expect in these districts. In Egypt a 
man wants for nothing; and he is surrounded by 
people who are well disposed, industrious, and kind ; 
he may pass from one end of the land to the other 
without molestation, and be as well protected, and as 
well provided for, as he need wish to be, or could be, 
in Europe. The Arabs are a merry, good-natured 

* Av armed guard. 





320 THR ARAB CHARACTER—CLIMATE. 


people: and if the traveller will langh and joke with 
them, and treat them well, whether it be in the valley 
of the Nile, or in the heart of the Desert, he may pass 
his time in perfect tranquillity; and learn to be con- 
tented with the more intellectual state of society in his 
own country: i. ¢. could he but strip it of some of its 
formalities and fashionable absurdities! He will at least 
see how little we require to make us happy, and what 
native simplicity really is: —and in this if I mistake not, 
he will envy many a poor honest Bedoueen, who, rough 
and uncivilized as he may appear, possesses nevertheless, 
all the noble virtues of a man. Lastly, he will pity 
the hard fate of the unfortunate Fellah, who, in the 
midst of plenty, desires only a good government, that 
he may be enabled to enjoy the fruits of his labours, 
and the blessings which Providence has so bountifully 
showered around him ; but which the ungenerous hand 
of despotism dares to withhold. Certainly he will not find 
fault with the climate, for it is every thing he can rea- 
sonably desire ; but of course, it has its peculiarities, 
like every other: and these it is necessary to study. 
There is nothing objectionable in it, which it is not in 
the power of every one to guard against; and the 
means of so doing are divisible, as I have said, chiefly 
into two heads, viz: dietetics and clothing. 

Whichever dress the traveller selects, let him be 
provided with a thick muslin or shawl for his head, 
another for his loins, and a sensible Arab blanket or 
mantle, for night-work—one that has a hood. The 
white bernous of Tunis is a most useful substitute 
for it by day: and if properly managed, may be made 
to keep one either warm or cool, as circumstances 
require. It is very light, and the traveller should 
never stir abroad without it. The coldness of the 





SCRIPTURE CONFIRMED—HEAT AND COLD. S21 


nights in hot countries is alluded to in many parts of 
the Scriptures. It may suffice to mention one. Jacob 
said to Laban,—‘In the day the drought consumed 
me, and the frost by night: and my sleep departed 
from mine eyes.”* Furs are sometimes worn in 
Egypt, and Persia, as well as in Syria and Turkey :— 
and nothing is more common than a double jacket, 
and thick cloth mantles. A letter from an officer in 
the British squadron, dated Beyrout, November 12th, 
1840, states “The weather here is very moderate, 
compared to last year. We have only just taken to 
wear blue clothes !" 

Cotton dresses suit very well in an ordinary way, 
in hot countries ; but wool and silk are better adapted 
to colder climates. In like manner, a bed of eider-down 
might be very delightful in the north of Russia; but a 
mattrass of horse-hair or cotton, with a simple blanket 
or coverlid, would be much more acceptable in Egypt. 

Time was now getting on, and the period of our first 
sojourn was fast drawing to a close. We were anxious 
not to exceed it, as every week, we were told, would 
make a perceptible difference in the height of the Nile. 
We had already seen enough of Messrs. Robinson and 
Maltass to believe that their company would be a 
valuable addition to our society, during our intended 
trip to the Cataracts. It was arranged that we should 
start together in a week: these gentlemen occupying one 
Cand’gia, ourselves another, and we each set about the 
necessary preparations without loss of time. There 
was no difficulty in obtaining a Cand’gia; but to meet 
with a sound and good one, was notso easy. As soon 
as it was known that such a thing was wanted, there 

* Gonesis xx3i, 40, Seo also Jor, axxvl.20,—Pualine Lxxvill. 47.—ealvii- 16, 
‘and Job xxvii. 29. 
Vou. I. ¥ 





$22 HIRING CAND’ G1AS,—PRECAUTIONS. 


were plenty of offers; and the prices were as various 
almost as their qualities. At last we succeeded to our 
wishes. The one we selected was not so large as that 
of our friends, but in many respects better; in fact, 
theirs was too large to pass the Cataracts, and they 
quitted it on the frontier, and joined us. We met with 
a stout, useful bark, in good condition, and very fair 
under canvass. It was the same in which Monsieur 
Linant, some time before, penetrated into Nubia, It 
was provided with an excellent double cabin, and 
carried two large, latteen sails, besides a fore-sail. It 
belonged to a merchant, and with him a bargain was 
struck for forty dollars per month, (about eight guineas.) 
‘There were to be no extra charges whatever, either on 
aecount of the Cand’ giaorcrew, which latter consisted 
of the Reis or captain, and eight active young 
fellows. (Nubians). We were under no stipulation 
to bring the Cand’ gia back to Cairo; we wereat liberty 
to discharge it when and where we pleased, without 
notice; paying, however, in any case, to the end of the 
month. The Reis was to have the sole management 
of his men, and was to provide for them without 
troubling us. He was to conform to our wishes in every 
respect, and to be responsible to the owner, for any 
damage which the Cand’gia might sustain. Tt was 
arranged also, that we should pay the Reis pe: a 
month in advance, that he might not be without means. 
Of course we were very particular i in having the 
terms of agreement drawn up in a legal way, ise 
scribe: and we particularly specified, that both the 
‘Cand’gias should be well provided with sails and 
and be in all respects fit for service by the day proposed : 
having been previously sunk, and kept under water 
three entire days, in order to destroy the rats, snakes, 





ANCIENT AND MODERN SCRIBES.—THE LAW. 323 


scorpions, and sundry other smaller tribes, that. experi- 
ence taught us, might otherwise disturb our peace, 
This precaution should never be omitted, for no 
Cand’gia is free from vermin. Nevertheless, before 
we furnished them, we took care to have them well 
scoured and fumigated. This done, the cabins were 
fitted up with strong basket-work divans, loosely 
covered with matting, and on these we arranged our 
cotton mattrasses and cushions : the floor was carpeted, 
The Cand’gia of our companions was similarly rigged 
and furnished, with our own; but the crew were Arabs. 
Each party had two servants, for whom there was also 
good accommodation, apart from their masters. We 
introduced afew English comforts, made some addition 
to our cooking utensils, and provided two large pro- 
vision-boxes, 

Osman Effendi, who had transacted the whole affair, 
sent for a scribe to draw up the stipulated articles, in 
due form: and these of course were signed by the 
parties concerned, and by all present. In a despotic 
country like Egypt, it would be folly to talk about 
* law"? —there is no law, except the will of the man in 
power. The scribes therefore of the present day, are 
not like the scribes of old,—lawyers, learned men who 
ranked with princes, and who from being familiar with 
the decrees of Moses, were consulted in cases of diffi- 
culty, as well as in matters of religion ; but who were 
at last denounced as haughty, self-righteous hypocrites, 
because instead of practising and teaching “the 
weightier matters of the law, judgment, mercy, and 
truth,” they adhered to useless forms and ceremonies, 
and “made the Word of God of none effect through 
‘their traditions.”"* Modern scribes are more properly 
‘ Jer. x33 aes ae 17—Mutt. ¥. 20. 

x 





324 THE “CAPTAN.”—DISTRIBUTION OF BIBLES ! 


secretaries or writers, and are very useful in their 
vocation, They are engaged by the authorities to take 
. an account of things to be done,—money to be received, 
taxes collected, —orders transmitted :—they may be said 
to issue the proclamations of the great, and their 
services are required (where so few persons can read 
or write,) in various mercantile affairs, agreements, 
stipulations, and bargains, with a view to prevent 
disputes, They always carry with them the “ink-horn,” 
and pen, or reed, which I have already described. 
This custom is of very ancient date.* The individual 
we employed was a venerable-looking man, about sixty 
years of age, of middle size, with a pallid complexion, 
and a grey beard ; his head was enveloped i in a scanty, 
green turban, in testimony of, it is supposed, his 
honorable descent: for he had never been at Mekka. 
He wore the Caftan, i. e. a long, cloth robe with wide 
half-sleeves; it is open in front, and reaches to the 
ankles: the outer garment was green; the inner one 
was of striped cotton, of various colours, similar in form, 
but having open, hanging sleeves, which with those of 
theshirt, weredisplayed beneath theformer : this covered 
the chest, and was bound at the waist, byashawl. These, 
together with the red ‘ papousches,” yellow slippers, 
and loose trousers, made up the full costume,—that 
which is usually worn by merchants in the bazaars, 
scribes, and in fact, by all civilians ; the chief differ- 
© Jer. vil. 8 Back. ix. 2. 11 am sorry to aay, T sometimes saw the 


Bidle-backs of the Bible Society of London, exposed for sale in the Barsars; the 
‘text torn out, but the cover still bearing the usual stamp of the Society. Formerly, 


Sr Barbas, ti as yor(foo forbs papers ead womeran, whisk ha aly 
carried with him in the loose folds of bis upper garments ; and there is nothing 
‘which answers this purpose 20 well as a Bible.back! 





THE TRANSMISSION OF LETTERS. 325 


ence consisting in the form and colour of the turban. 
Those who have money transactions with Greek and 
Armenian merchants in London, have frequent oppor- 
tunities of seeing this dress: it is by far the most 
common, and comparatively little modified all over 
the East. Never by any chance, do we meet with 
tight clothes, unless as a sign of mourning ;—the 
loose, outer garments being then thrown aside, in part or 
altogether : as if to convey an idea of frantic distress, 
occasioned by the death of a dear friend or relative :-— 
the Persian saying, is—‘ His vest has become tight to 
his body !” 

When the notary was first introduced to our ac- 
quaintance, we were very busy arranging our papers, 
and the various notices and plans which had been given 
us by friends resident at Cairo. I had just made up a 
packet of letters for England, ready to send off by the 
Jirst opportunity :—for there was then no regular 
communication, mo post, and from the interior, no 
intercourse with the coast, at all! ‘Thus the traveller 
should always have a budget ready to despatch by any 
courier or voyageur whom accident may throw in his 
way.* The day of our departure being now fixed, we 
began to count the hours that remained to us in Cairo, 
We had numerous arrangements still to make, and 
many things to see, which we did not wish to leave till 
our return. Moreover, we thought it advisable to 
pay a visit to Mohammed Ali, and obtain his 
“ firmaun.”* 

‘The affair of the notary was soon settled; but before 


* This remark still holds good; albeit the exertions of the Oriental Steam 
Navigation Company have rendered. the correspondence with Europe more exsy, 
‘There wos always a monthly packet to Malta; there is now one to Alexandria; 
and the French have opened a communieation with Marseilles. 





326 ARAB WAY OF TRANSACTING BUSINESS. 


he proceeded to draw up the deed, the usual ceremony 
of pipes and coffee was gone through; during which, 
numerous salutations were interchanged: and thus, an 
hour was devoted to that which might have been 
completed with ease in twenty minutes; but it is 
neither prudent nor possible to hurry these gentry in 
their work: they must proceed in their own way: 
they go on slowly and systematically, and though they 
are not very energetic, they generally do their business 
well. As soon, however, as he was dismissed, and we 
were assured that every thing was legally and formally 
settled relative to the Cand’gia, we called in Mohammed 
and made him acquainted ‘ith our determination to 
depart for the interior on th morning of the 12th. 
We put into his hand a list of necessaries, and gave 
him instructions to set about procuring them im- 
mediately ; which done, he might have the rest of 


the day to himself, and visit his family. * 


* For an account of Upper Egypt, Nublo, and a continuativa of the Author's 
tour, see Vol. 11. Chap. X. 





CHAPTER XII. 


CATRO—IMPROVEMENTS OF THE VICEROY—STATISTICS 
—FAKIRS AND IMPOSTORS—THE INSANE—HOUSE 
OF INCURABLES—SCRIPTURE ILLUSTRATIONS — SE 
PULCHRES—* THE POSSESSED—THE CASTING ‘OUT 
OF DEVILS —THE BLESSINGS OF A FOSTERING 
GOVERNMENT—RELIGIOUS FERVOUR——ARAB METHOD 
OF COMPUTING TIME— THE Mos'QUES — NATIVE 
SCHOOLS—THE CITADEL, AND PALACE—THE MINT 
—PRINTING-OFFICE —HALL OF THE KH ALIPHES, 
ETC, 


Wuursr all these things were preparing, we were not 
idle. Our future companions joined us, and with 
Osman Effendi as guide, we commenced our perambu- 
lations. The chief points of attraction, naturally 
enough, were the Pyramids! But it was thought 
better that we should visit a few other matters first :— 
look about the town, go to the citadel, bazaars, &e., in 
order to get accustomed, if I may so speak, to the 
atmosphere of the place. Every thing was new to 
us:—a multiplicity of objects followed one another in 
such quick succession, that at first it was hardly in our 
power to form an opinion concerning them. At a 
single glance, there seemed to be, as it were, a vortex 
of “organized confusion :'*—a sort of semi-chaotic 
mass, hurried along, hurly burly, by some unknown, 
invisible agent; but on closer inspection, when we 
found ourselves in the midst of the animated crowd, it 





3238 PERAMBULATION OF THE CITY. 


was easy to discover that each, like the industrious 
labourers of an ant-hill, was under the influence of a 
power inherent in itself, and that it exercised both 
judgment and design. There was ample amusement 
to be obtained by riding through the streets, or by 
taking up one’s station in a corner, to view the passers- 
by: such was the diversity of the scene ! 

I have already described the thoroughfares and 
buildings of the famous ‘“ Misr." The former may 
justly be compared to narrow, irregular avenues of 
gloomy prisons; the latter, though sometimes adorned 
with basins, and fountains of water, raised seats, or 
carpeted divans arranged in spacious courts, and into 
which the latticed windows of the apartments open, 
are, nevertheless, heavy, dull, monotonous-looking 
places, and form a remarkable contrast with the light, 
gay, neat, and elegant structures which we are ac- 
customed to see in the West. I have alluded also to 
the apathy and indifference evinced by the people 
and the authorities concerning external appearances. 
Neither seem to care much about the neatness or 
orderly condition of the public ways, which are every 
where obstructed by heaps of rubbish and dirt. As 
there is no liberality or justice displayed by the 
government, and yery little security for property, of 
course there is no confidence on the part of the inhabi- 
tants: and it is not to be supposed that either would 
expend money on repairs. Every man refrains from 
building ; he props up his house as long as he can, and 
suffers it to become dilapidated. When it is no longer 
habitable, the walls crack ; and threatening destruction, 
are very wisely deserted, though not until the last 
moment. When the whole gives way, the rubbish, 
instead of being removed, is suffered to remain where- 





DESTITUTION.—PARENTAL SOLICITUDE. 329 


ever it may happen to fall; and not unfrequently 
becomes the basis of a new dwelling. This seems to 
have been the fashionable mode of proceeding for 
generations ; we behold ruins mouldering upon yruins 5 
and these are destined to become the resting place 
alternately of man and beast; especially in the 
suburbs of the city, where groups of dogs and jacals 
prowl and watch by day, and herd together at night; 
whilst man, their boasted master, is seen reclining in 
the open streets upon the earth, or else within some 
vault or tottering portico. Many of such houseless 
wanderers are not only destitute of clothing; but de- 
pending on a few parahs obtained during the day by 
begging, are so reduced for want of food, that they 
would searcely have strength to repel the attacks made 
upon’ them by the dogs. At night, therefore, ‘they 
very commonly take refuge in and about the sacred 
edifices, the porches of a mos’que, or the open court of 
a caravanserai, and have no other home. It is not an 
uncommon thing to see before the door of some Arab 
dwelling, a poor, lean, wasted animal, watching with 
parental solicitude, a litter of five or six pups, which, like 
herself, with difficulty obtain “the scanty nourishment 
which nature needs; for notwithstanding these un- 
fortunate creatures are regarded as unclean, and there- 
fore shunned and neglected by the Mohammedan, such 
is the bond of connection between man and every doz 
mestic animal, that in spite of kicks and blows, the 
sagacious creature looks wistfully though fearfully, at 
those near whose dwelling she has ventured to place 
her offspring, as an eloquent appeal to the feelings 
which are implanted by Nature in the breast of all man- 
kind; for ie must have a heart of stone who could not 
be moved to sympathy, by the pitiful, impressive looks 


{ 





330 = WATCHING, LIGHTING, AND CLEANSING: 


of these most interesting of the Creator's works, at 
such atime. Alas! many of the unfortunate Fellahs 
are no better off; for they are to be seen basking, as 1 
have stated, in the scorching sun-beams, emaciated, 
sick, and broken-hearted ; and it is melancholy to read 
in ihe sunken eye and meagre aspect, that their own 
condition is little more than one remove from that of 
the neglected, wretched animals that yell or slumber in 
the dust before them. Many of the houses are but 
sheds, and we often meet with tents of straw, or mud- 
built huts, with something of an inclosure of the same 
materials. Nothing is more common in the streets of 
Cairo, than to stumble over an Arab at night. It is 
due to Mohammed Ali to state that great improve- 
ments are taking place in regard to the public thorough- 
fares. Many are being widened, and quantities of 
rubbish of all kinds have been recently removed by his 
order, The streets are also well watched, and better 
cleansed than formerly ; but they are not lighted. It 
is, therefore, decreed that every individual who goes 
out after sun-set, shall carry with him one of the 
country “ fanous,” or lanterns.* 

We are informed that Cairo contains 400 mos’ques, 
11 bazaars, 300 public cisterns, 65 public baths, 140 
native schools for the instruction of children, three 
hospitals on a very limited scale, which are attached to 
the casernes, and one miserable establishment for the 
infirm and insane. ‘This is, 1 should think, pretty 
nearly correct ; although for obvious reasons, it is very 
difficult to form any estimate of the actual population. 

* These are of « cylindrical form, and are made of waxed linen, bound at 
either end with aclroular piece of tin ; the lower one forming the receptacle of a 
war light. The. parts are so compressible, that the candle. being. removed, the 


whole muy be made ft and put in the pocket. ‘They are not unlike the lane 
terns of the Chiaete, 





INSTITUTIONS ; BATHS ; POPULATION. 331 


All we can say about it is, that it varies on the average, 
from 250,000, to 300,000. Changes are constantly 
taking place ; and it is only within the last few years, 
that any attempt has been made to ascertain what the 
probable number of inhabitants might be. The re- 
turns were, I dare say, not very correct ; and the au- 
thorities might find it their interest to make them as 
low or as high as possible, as circumstances arose: but 
there is no doubt whatever, that for some time past, it 
has been annually diminishing. The Pascha was 
aware of this; and prohibited the Arabs crossing the 
frontier, on pain of death, Nevertheless his proceed- 
inge have not tended to supply the deficiency! Al- 
though, it is true, that a great deal of the rubbish is 
being cleared away, and thrown into the numerous pits 
and irregularities about the city, still the general aspect 
in the immediate vicinity of the town, is any thing but 
prepossessing. It is that of neglect and desolation : 
for the iron hand of power is every where felt, and at- 
tended with its usual afflicting concomitants. Go 
where we please, wheresoever we turn our eyes, we 
observe nothing but dust, rubbish, toil, poverty, la- 
mentation, and disease; unless perhaps we look 
towards the dwellings of certain rich men, where we 
may indeed behold indolence, luxury, sensuality, excess, 
and riot. 

It is remarkable that the most notorious beggars in 
Cairo, are the Fakirs, ragged, ranting ecclesiastics, 
santons or saints. They are often called “ Sitters in 
a Comer.” They are men of austere, misanthropic 
character, who profess contempt of life, and of the 
world. Not satisfied with rejecting luxury, they inflict 
on themselyes penance, and covet all manner of trials 





332  FAKIRS, SANTONS, IMPOSTORS, IDIOTS, 


and self-denial. Some of them, a set of wild enthu- 
siasts, are neither more nor less than madmen: yet 
they are allowed to be at large, and wander, “in puris 
naturalibus,” about the city. They are regarded by the 
ignorant, and fanatics, who are only one remove 
perhaps from themselves, as the highly favoured of the 
prophet : and others, who profess to be a little more 
enlightened, do, nevertheless, hold them in awful vene- 
ration. They give them money, and would not dare 
to oppose their will. Many of these deluded creatures 
are, beyond all doubt, deranged; but there are not 
wanting those, who from convenience and craftiness, 
imitate them; and (like the ascetics of Europe in 
olden time, who pretended to mortify the body by rigid 
abstinence, castigation, and prayer,) dress themselves 
in rags, smear their bodies with dust and ashes, and 
make a trade of religion, by vending charms to prevent 
the “evil-eye,” and by “laying their bands” upon 
the sick and barren: thereby imposing upon the 
credulity of the simple. Mohammed Ali does not 
however, interfere, although he knows them to be 
a set of lying impostors: and what is still worse, he 
entirely disregards those who, being really helpless and 
insane, should not only be carefully watched and pro- 
tected, but removed from the public eye: whereas 
these afflicted beings are left to themselves as the 
objects of “ God’s peculiar care,” and they are suffered 
to prowl about, in the midst of a large and mixed popu- 
lation, without any sort of provision being made for 
their natural wants. Many of them are women, and 
equally destitute of clothing and food. Still they are 
neglected, and suffered to live on common charity. 


* See an interesting dislogue with a Fakir, ia Mr. St. Joba's Book on 
Egypt, vol. l. p. 127: seealso pp. 137 and 208, 





DWELLERS AMONG TOMES.— MAD SCHEIKHS.” 333 


‘These most degraded of mortals are generally in the 
most filthy condition, from rolling in the dust and offal, 
in every loathsome corner. But they do not take 
refuge only in the solitary places and among the tombs, 
as in the days of our Saviour. They are permitted to 
wander wheresoever they please, —in the bazaars, and 
in the most crowded parts of the metropolis. There, 
alone they sit, brooding over sorrows imaginary or real, 
viewed with superstitious dread by some, despised and 
avoided by others, and—neglected by all! They 
either mutter incoherently to themselves, or they gaze 
in silent apathy at the passing multitude. If money 
be thrown to them they heed it not; but suffer it to lie 
upon the earth before them, apparently regardless of 
its worth; but if bread be offered, they seize it with 
avidity, and swallow it with all the savage voracity of a 
famished hound. 

There are few, I apprehend, who take up this sort of 
life by profession, (albeit, Fakirs will often go great 
lengths). There is every reason to believe that these 
unfortunate outcasts are really what they seem to be,— 
the unprotected victims of disease: and there is no 
doubt that their affliction is often aggravated by the 
bodily sufferings which they are compelled to endure ; 
whereas it might be diminished, and in many instances 
remoyed, by acts of kindness, and the interposing hand 
of charity. But here, alas! notwithstanding the talked 
of doings of Clot Bey on medical subjects, no attempt 
is made to alleviate their condition: and the only way 
in which, it would seem, Mohammed Ali interferes 
respecting them is, if they are unmanageable, to turn 
them over to the tender mercy of the native physicians, 
a set of ignorant men, who regard them as incurable 
whether they are or not, and dispose of them ac- 





334 due “MoURITAN” OR “HOUSE OF INCURABLES.” 


cordingly: or, as I am informed, if they are not 
absolutely furious, to make soldiers of them!* This 
latter assertion [ can hardly credit ; but I am assured 
that the Pascha, from political motives, allows some of 
these “mad scheikhs” as they are called, to ac- 
company an expedition, that they may encourage the 
superstitious in battle, and stir up the fanatic! Be 
this as it may; it is impossible to imagine a more 
shocking or humiliating spectacle than is afforded by 
the appearance and condition of these most hapless of 
all outeasts; whether we regard them as seen in the 
public streets, or huddled together in that most hor- 
rible and disgusting of prisons, the “ Mouritan,” or 
Tunatic asylum. This dreadful place of torture is a 
charnel-house of the most revolting kind. I positively 
know not how to describe it. No language can con- 
vey an adequate idea of its terrors. It was founded 
about 500 years ago, as a house for “ incurables !” 
Alas! if all were confined there who are beyond the 
reach of charms and talismans!—But, to continue: 
it consists of four vaulted chambers with recesses and 
iron gratings, within which these unfortunate wretches 
are to be seen crouching, or rolled up, (many of them 
chained by the neck) in a state of nudity, and begrimed 
with their own dirt. They are neither washed, nor 
taken out of their cell. They are kept there like wild 
beasts, and fed through the bars of their den, which is 
itself in a most offensive and filthy condition, and 
barely high enough to admit of the erect posture. No 
attempt is made to restore them; they are placed there 
as “incurables,” and left to die! They have not so 
much as a bundle of straw to lie upon. Some, I saw, 


* Ttix an undeniable fact that on certain occasions, those wretched maniacs 
‘are beaten with iron rods. 





APPALLING SIGHT !—THE “PossEssED.” 335 


Jess violent than the rest; but there seemed to be no 
variation in their treatment. 1 will not attempt to 
particularize the scenes to which I was an eye-witness 
during my residence in this city. I should shock the 
feelings of my readers if 1 did, and some would 
scarcely believe the horrors I should depict. Suffice it 
to say, as regards the wretched inmates of the 
“ Mouritan,” that their general aspect was gaunt, 
dejected, and squalid ; their whole form emaciated, and 
variously diseased ; their manner lethargic, wild, or 
sullen, In another portion of the building, groups of 

rable objects were to be seen crawling about, or re- 
lining despondingly, on the bare stones; here and 
there, one enveloped in rags, but most of ‘them were 
naked; they were all more or less covered with sores 
and eruptions, eaten up with vermin, and their bones 
ready to start through their skin, which was shrivelled 
or tumid; and in some parts cracked and bleeding. 
These were chiefly the aged and paralytic, cripples, 
and those who were either confirmed idiots, slightly 
imbecile, or afflicted with fits, —in other words, ‘ pos- 
sessed of devils and unclean spirits,”—incurable of 
course; and therefore brought to this asylum for the 
infirm and destitute! So that the establishment 
(which was doubtless framed with the best intentions, 
according to Mohammedan notions,) is not limited to 
the insane. I trust the time is not far distant, now. 
that the counsels of the English have a chance of 
being listened to, when this execrable lazaret will be 
abolished, and a hospital, founded on Christian prin- 
ciples, erected in its place. ‘The chambers which I 
have here spoken of, surround an open court, in the 
midst of which there is a fountain. That portion of 
the edifice which is allotted to the lunatics, has also its 


‘ 





336 THE CASTING OUT OF DEVILS.—sT. LUKE. 


fountain ; and connected with it thereis much superstition. 
Numerous are the cures which these miraculous waters 
are said to have effected. Every day the sick and 
eredulous come there to dip their finger in the stream 5 
and those that are bed-ridden or lame, cause them- 
selves to be paraded round thé courts and precincts ; 
but the peculiar efficacy of the ‘Moyé Mouritan,”” 
is reserved for the epileptic, the blind, and the 
barren ! 

St. Luke, who was a physician, a man of education, 
and a trayeller, describes the various diseases of his 
time, much more accurately and more minutely than 
either of his contemporaries ; it would seem, that the 
same diseases prevailed then in Syria and Egypt as 
now, and that the various practices adopted by the 
people concerning them, have very little changed 
during a period of nearly 2000 years. Nothing is 
more common in the present day in the East, than to 
be told that a person is ‘possessed of a devil,” or 
that he has “got a devil;” and the expression is 
applied more or less to almost every complaint. The 
reader may remember that I had occasion to notice 
this immediately on my arrival in the country ;* and 
we are continually meeting with the same expression in 
the writings of the Evangelists.+ Thus in the 8th 
chapter of St. Luke’s gospel, we read that when our 
Saviour landed from the Sea of Galilee, “ there met 
him out of the city, a certain man, which had devils a 
long time, and ware no clothes, neither abode in any 
house, but in the tombs.” We are told that the un- 
fortunate man called upon our Saviour as he passed, 


* Seo Chap. I1J. p. 73. 
+t Sco Matth. iv, 23, 24.—vill. 16, 17, 28.—xvii. 15, 18 —St. Mark , 3, 4,5. 
—St. Luke viii. 2, 97, 29.—ai. 14, 
3 





THE SEPULCHRES OF EGYPT AND JUDAA, 337 


that he would cure him, or, in the language of the 
day, that he should not be tormented: for it is stated 
that the unclean spirit had ‘oftentimes caught him,” 
and that “he was kept bound with chains and in 
fetters ;" but that “he brake the bands and was driven 
of the devil into the wilderness.” Now this is a very 
beautiful and consistent account of a case of insanity. 
We have reason to believe, on the authority of the 
Scriptures, that it was no uncommon thing to chain and 
confine lunaties when violent, in the tombs, an expres- 
sion which will be easily understood, when the steady, 
settled state of the climate is kept in mind; and also 
that, for the most part, the tombs, especially the 
ancient tombs, both in Egypt and Judea, consist of 
chambers cut in a rock, such, for instance, as the 
chambers at Qh'ournih,* the tomb of Lazarus at 
Bethany, and that of Joseph of Arimathea at Calvary. 
We can imagine that a spare tomb would be a very 
convenient and suitable place for the confinement of 
lunatics under certain circumstances; but there seems 
to be no doubt that those who were more moderate, 
were allowed to betake themselves to the sepulchres, 
which were then, as now, situated near the city gates ; 
and that they were accustomed there to sit or wander in 
solitude, brooding over their misfortunes, and holding 
converse with themselves, without any molestation, 
Accordingly, the account given by St, Luke of the 
meeting of our Saviour with a notorious and violent 
madman, who had contrived to elude the vigilance of 
the inhabitants, aud was so furious that he struck 
terror into the soul of every one who beheld him, is 
very plain and natural; and it is confirmed by the 


* A district of Thebes.—See Matt. fexvil. 60, (6—John xi, 38,—aix. 41. 
Keck. xxxii. 283 —Gon. 1.5. 


VOls le Zz 





338) THE WRITINGS OP THE EVANGELISTS. 


statements of the other evangelists; but especially 
by those of St. Mark, who informs us, in the 5th 
chapter of his Gospel, that the same man “had bis 
dwelling among the tombs, and no man could bind him, 
no not with chains: because that he had been often 
bound with fetters and chains; and the chains had 
been plucked asunder by him, and the fetters broken 
in pieces: neither could’any man tame him. And 
always night and day, be was in the mourtains, 
and in the tombs, erying and cutting himself with 
stones." 4 

I may mention two other portions of Seripture, 
though very many might be quoted relative to this in- 
toresting subject. In the 17th chapter of St. Matthew, 
we read that a certain man presented himself before 
our Saviour, and kneeling down, said, “Lord, have 
merey on my son; for'he is lunatic and sore vexed : 
for oft-times he falleth into the fire, and oft into the 
water. And I brought him to thy disciples, and 
they could not cure him.” And when the child was 
brought, “Jesus rebuked the devil: and he departed 
out of him: and the child was cured from that very 
hour." 

St. Luke also, in the 11th chapter of his Gospel, 
informs us in the 14th verse, that on a certain oceasion, 
Jesus “was casting out a devil and it was dumb, and 
it came to pass, when the devil was gone out, the 
dumb spake; and the people wondered.” 

I have known the Reverend Mr. Wolff ridiculed for 
stating, that one evening, when he was passing between 
Jerusalem and Cairo, he “cast out a devil in the wil- 

* St. Mark v. 3, 4,5. 


+ This, E conceive, must have been a cate of epilepey occurring ln the person. 
of an idiot. 





THE BLESSINGS OF CIVILIZATION. 339 


derness;" but T ean only suppose that he used the 
expression in the sense here alluded to;-and that he 
merely employed the native idiom. I shall have oc- 
casion to speak of this circumstance, however, another 
time. I have often been myself applied to, in Syria 
and other parts, to cast out a devil, by which | merely 
understood that I was to cure the bodily ailments of the 
individual ; not that IT was expected to perform a 
miracle on the occasion, further than that the cure of 
every disease is ascribed by the natives to talismanic 
influence. Perhaps, however, the expression may be 
more fully applicable to those complaints which have a 
marked effeet upon the mind, and which ate of a 
serious and more permanent nature. 

How happy should we be to think that we live in a 
Christian country where all are protected by the laws ; 
where the sick and destitute are provided for; and 
where even the wretched maniac may find an asylum! 
But what, alas! becomes of the poor in Egypt? 
What provision is made for the aged ? Who! shall 
direct the footsteps of the blind, or support the cripple 2 
In short, how scanty and inefficient is the relief ‘afforded 
to the unfortunate in any despotic lands! Where is 
the unhappy sufferer, the gaunt, and hollow eyed, the 
silent and despairing victim of melancholy, to seek a 
respite from his sorrows? Or how is the unfriended 
child of adversity to assuage his grief in the savage 
regions of tyranny, where the rights of man are de+ 
spised and trampled on, where the sweets of sympathy 
are seldom felt, where might is right, and he only 
obtains justice who has gold to pay for it,—and where 
there ise neither confidence nor social intercourse ? 

n F licted cease to mourn, or the de- 
Hapless 





340 GOOD AND EVIL CONTRASTED. 


indeed is the condition of those who, like the Egyp- 
tians, are doomed to trial and adversity beneath the 
sceptre of a stern monarch, whose ambition and 
avarice know no bounds, and whose only care is self 
aggrandizement. If Mohammed Ali were really 
anxious to promote civilization, he would direct his 
thoughts to these matters, and endeavour to gain 
the affections of his people by acts of liberality and 
justice. 

The Arabs are full of talent, industrious, and well 
disposed: they only want encouragement ; and if the 
Pazcha of Egypt would refrain from monopoly and 
extortion, and repose in them the confidence they 
deserve, they would become enlightened, and he would 
have the satisfaction of knowing that he reigned in the 
hearts of one of the fin noblest races of men in 
the whole world: they would promote his interest in 
every way, and cheerfully shed their blood in his 
defence, But at present, the reverse is the case ;— 
the whole land is enslaved from one end to the other, 
and its ruler is most sincerely detested: the people are 
treated like dogs, whose well-being forms no part of 
their master's concern, and they are left to degenerate 
and starve in the midst of aland of plenty. ‘This is 
very shocking; and, as Dr. John Armstrong truly 
observed,—* In any country, opulent or not, it is a 
disgrace to the government, that any one who dares to 
claim its protection, should ever perish for want of 
necessaries. There ought to be no distress from want. 
Employ the poor that are able to work ; but supply the 
infirm and superannuated with a comfortable home and 
subsistence. The greatest miseries of life are often 
not to be cured, not even to be soothed, by all the 





PACILITY OF ACCESS TO THE Mos'quEs. S41 


advantages of wealth. And what ashameful, inhuman 
crime it is to neglect those to which a wise police and 
good government could always apply an infallible 
remedy,”* 

Afier riding for some time, about the streets of 
Grand Cairo— Misr,” ‘‘the Mother of the World,” 
and as the Arabs also inform us, “without equal,”—we 
were anxious to obtain a general view of its situation 
and extent, and therefore thought we could not do 
better than mount the citadel. In our way, we passed 
several mos’ques and fountains, which are deservedly 
admired for their lightness and general architectural 
character.¢ The doors of the former are constantly 
kept open, and the inhabitants are permitted to enter 
at any hour of the day or night, without restraint. 1 
could not but think that in this respect, the Christians 
would do well to take a lesson from the Mohammedans. 
A certain consciousness of error and apparent want of 
zeal, insidiously stole upon me; and J blushed for the 
eredit of my country, which, in her anxiety to guard 
against the superstitions of popery, has, 1 am afraid, 
fallen a little into the opposite extreme. As I beheld 
the Arabs pass in and out, [I could not but acknow- 
ledge, that although as a nation, we are more enlight- 
ened than they, we still appear to be less fervent in the 
cause of religion, in as much as we shut up our places of 
worship, with some exceptions for six days together :— 
we bar the doors against all without distinction, a 
circumstance for which we are able to assign no good 
reason: and what is worse,—we exhibit our principal 
mosques (that is, our cathedrals and abbeys,) for 
money ! No person is admitted else, except during the 

* Mscetiantes, vol th p. 213. 
+ Sco Mr, Hay's exquisite Ltasteations of © 





342 THE CONSOLATIONS OF THE SANCTUARY. 


time of public worship! The Providence of God is 
unbounded : it “sleepeth not :’’—and the prayers of the 
just are freely heard, at all times, and in all places. 
Howbeit, in every age, and in eyery country, it has 
been the custom to dedicate some particular spot or 
situation to the worship of the Divine Being. That 
spot was always venerated as the “ Holy of Holies:” 
it was mentioned with awe, and thought of as the 
hallowed dwelling of the Omnipotent. It might be a 
‘*grove,” a ‘desert place," or a “mountains” a “heap 
of stones,”’ a “ cave,” a “circle,” or a “ tabernacle 2” 
—thither all would retire, as often as it suited them, 
for the purposes of prayer, and praise, and thanksgiy- 
ing. By whatever appellation it might be known,— 
however simple, or magnificent, conspicuous, or obscure, 
it was nevertheless—the church—the temple of the 
living God,—and being such, it was regarded as a 
national, public sanctuary, a place of refuge for the 
afflicted and the oppressed in spirit; an asylum whose 
doors should be open to all alike, to which the man of 
sorrows might repair, aé any hour without restraint, 
where, unobserved, he might forget the world and all 
its cares, freely unburden his thoughts, and in pious 
aspirations to the Deity, discharge his grief:—a con- 
secrated spot to which the aged might go to muse 
upon the days that were gone, and where the holy man 
who takes delight in soli might pass the silent hours 
in peaceful meditation. Who has not felt the thrilling 
influence of his Maker's presence, when treading the 
arched, and sculptured aisles of a sacred edifice, he 
has beheld around him the pious yotaries of religion 
at their devotions? A Druidical Cromlech will beget 
respect ; and as we trace the mouldering ruins of an 
antiquated chapel, and contemplate beneath its totter- 





ADORATION OF THE DIVINE BEING. 343 


ing, ivy-mantled towers, the marble depositories of the 
dead fast crumbling into dust, we are reminded that 
the ground on which we stand is holy! Who has not 
felt his heart glow within him as he casually passed 
along, and heard the peals of the lond anthem which 
proclaimed the majesty of his God? And how often 
have we then been tempted to enter in, and 
‘Hail the Uiivereal Lord 

Who bouuteous ever, gires ws only good |” 
Shall we alone of all His creatures, on whom 
so many of His choicest gifts have been bestowed, 
refuse to meditate upon Ilis glorious works? Rather 
let us declare His name and “power divine,” that 
others may be led to do Him homage : and 

“© Au in Heav'n, the Angela who behold Him 

Circle His throne rejoicing, and with sooge 

And choral symphonies, day without night, 

Praise Him who out of darkness call up light ; 

80,—jolning volves al, Wet wx on earth, 

In honor to the world’s great Author rise, 

And land Him first, Him last, and withont end!” 
Even the ancient Egyptians were wont to indulge 
occasionally in this most delightful of all seclusion. 
Whenever they felt sad, they would withdraw from 
society, and betake themselves to the tomb of a friend 
or relative: there they would reside for days, or even 
weeks, in the spacious and solemn mansions of the 
departed,—away from the bustle of this life, and in 
serious contemplation of the life to come. An Euro- 
pean being never seen to pray, is taougat by a Mus- 
sulmaun to have no religion at all; and he professes 
the greatest contempt for him in consequence : clearly 
demonstrating the necessity of pudiic as well as private 
prayer; at the same time that it offers a very severe 
reproof to certain philosophers, whose vanity has so 





O44 EXAMPLE, MEDITATION, AND PRAYER. 


blinded their judgment, that they are unable to 
penetrate beyond second causes! 1 certainly cannot 
understand why in protestant countries, we close the 
doors of our churches as we do ;—there is something 
very cold in the idea, and which seems to argue indif- 
ference :—nay, were we to tell an Arab that he is 
superstitious, he would be quite justified in retorting 
upon us, that since we only pray in public on the 
Sabbath, and by rule, he, who is accustomed to pour 
out his heart with a true feeling of devotion, in the 
sanctuary of his God, as often as he is oppressed with 
care, and whenever he feols himself ina state of mind 
suited to hold commune with his Maker, (whether it be 
to supplicate his forgiveness, to glorify Him as the 
Deity, the Omnipotent Creator of the universe, who is 
beyond all praise ; or to offer his humble but sincere 
tribute of thanksgiving for his bountiful Providence 
and Mercy,) would assuredly evince more of the real 
spirit of religion than oursel for that, acting as we 
do, we seem to he ashamed to let our “good works 
shine_before men,” or seen to acknowledge that 
there isa Supreme Being! I have had occasion to 
discuss this subject with ~Mohammedans, and Tam by 
no means sure that their inferences were incorrect; 1 
cannot divest myself of idea, that a man who enters 
the house of prayer only on the Sabbath day, from mere 
habit, when there are so many things to divert his 
attention, and because his education has taught him to 
observe the sacred institutions of his country, is quite 
as much in danger of being called a formalist, as an 
illiterate, simple Arab who has been taught in like 
manner, rigidly to perform hic ablutions, to observe 
the fasts and ordinances of his Prophet, scrupulously 
to abstain from wine and other unlawful food, and to 





RELIGIOUS ZEAL,—MENTAL DISCIPLINE. 345. 


prostrate himself upon the earth with his face in the 
direction of the holy * Kaaba," punctually five times a- 
day! On the other hand, he who can conscientiously 
step aside from the busy scenes of life, and calmly 
offer up, in the Temple of his Maker, the aspirations of 
a grateful heart, in acknowledgment of the mercies 
which he is hourly experiencing at his hands, cannot 
1 should think, be a very bad man. He is likely to 
keep his mind in better discipline than if he entered a 
place of worship at stated periods only; the exercise 
is at least a salutary one; and if he be sincere, he will 
return to the world again, at peace with his Redeemer, 
and with increased feelings of benevolence to mankind. 
A king once asked a learned man, on what the faithful 
might rely for Divine aid under difficulties. He told 
him, ‘ Chiefly upon two things ; prayer and resigna- 
tion! Submit patiently to the will of the Most High: 


be just Sets defend the helpless; comfort the 


afflicted; Ww forth thy gratitude for every benefit 
bestowed : and endeavour as much as possible, to let 
thy thanks be in the full measure of the Divine bless- 
ings, and follow the course of infinite bounty!” 
However, this is a subject for the divines, and it be- 
comes me to leave it for their consideration.* 

The minarets of Cairo are very picturesque objects 5 
they rise above the other buildings like a forest of 
stone, and are a great relief to the heavy, flat roofs of 
the city. However monotonous the sounds of the 
Muezzin’s voice when calling the sons of Islam to 
their devotions, at the hours prescribed in the Khoran, 

* Twould be understood, by the remarks in which T have indulged, to refor 
rather to the votuntory religions communinge of individuals, than to the adaink= 
stration of public ordinances, or the preaching of the Gospel. Nevertheless, 1 
am humbly of opinion, that {n all national churches, certain prayers should be 
olfered up, and hyions sang, every moraing aud evening. 





346 ARAB METHOD OF COMPUTING TIME. 


the: pleasing associations ; especially in a popu- 
recta Cairo, where the Had’gjs with their 
green turbans, the reputed descendants of the Prophet, 
and the more pious Scheikhs, abound; and are to be 
‘seen quitting their occupations in the bazaars, and 
flocking together with avarietyof more humble devotees, 
to the many-columned porches of a favourite mosque. 
There is something extremely beautiful in this: and I 
will frankly own, that, although I had resided some 
time in the East, with seldom an opportunity of 
attending a place of Christian worship, I was not quite 
insensible to religious impressions. I could not look 
upon such scenes without reverence ; and they called 
forth a thousand delightful recollections of home; such 
as I would not have been denied for all the world. But, 
these are subjects which those only can appreciate who 
have been separated from their native land; and the 
dull tones of the Muezziu must be heagd amid the 
peculiar associations of an Eastern city, listened 
to with pleasure. It may be universally known, 
that in Mohammedan countries, there are neither public 
clocks nor bells: indeed nothing is more offensive to the 
ear of a Mussulmaun than the latter, as he is immediately 
reminded of the Christians, who, he is aware, attach 
them to their churches. In the East, time is reckoned 
differently from what it is with us. The Arabs always 
set their watches at sun-set, this being the commence- 
ment of the first hour! They speak of the night of 
to-morrove,—supposing that at first, all was “ Chaos!” 
Then begins the day, which is divided into five parts 
or “watches.” ‘The “ Mogreb," or first prayer, com- 
mences as soon as the sun dips the horizon. The 
“Asha,” or second prayer, begins an hour and-a-half 
after sun-set, The “ Fed’gr,” or third watch, is looked 





DIVISION OF THE DAY INTO WATCHES. 347 


for about an hour before sun-tise, or as soon as the 
sun appears;—when the ‘“eock crows:” or as the 
Bedoueens say, when we can first distinguish a white 
thread from a black one,” or “a white horse from a 
grey one.”—Thus, our Saviour said to Saint Peter, 
“Before the cock crow, thou shalt deny me thrice!” 
The wandering tribes sometimes distinguish between 
the “ false dawn,’ and the “true dawn,”’—thus render- 
ing this watch less determinate.* The ‘ Doh’r," or 
fourth watch, commences at mid-day. It is ascertained 
by dials and time-pieces, and by the length of the 
shadow. When the sun is at its highest, or exactly 
over our heads, it is at its meridian: and there is then 
little or no shadow. To determine this correctly, the 
inhabitants of the Desert put up a stick or a heap of 
stones, close to their encampment. The “ As’r,” or 
fifth prayer, is mid-way between noon and sun-set, 


which is of course easily determined, either by the 
length of the shadow or by the watch, At each of 
these periods, the Ulemah regularly call the hour of 
prayer from the summit of the minarets, ‘ Allah! 
Allah! il Allah! Repent! Time flies! Prayeris better 
than sleep! God is merciful! Blessed be God!” &c, 


* Tho Rev. Mr. Arundel, who was many years chaplain to the British Conrulate 
at Smyrna, and who aocompanied me to the Magnetic Mountains iu Asin Minar, 
Con which country he has published cwo admirable works,) makes somo inter 
esting remarks on the astonishing regularity with which the cock keeps the 
watohes io these climates. He states that *' he has often heard the cooks crowing 
in fall chorus Between 11 and 12 o'slock, with scarcely the varistion of & 
minute ""—snd tho aecond crowing, which is alluded to by fh. Mark, is, be maya, 
"between one ud two o'clock!" —I do not wish it therefore to be understood 
that the crowing of the cock ix a sign of the" third, or morning watch," only. 
Bright Chanticleer lets himself be heard at intervals, throughout the night) 
though possibly he may proclaim rhe dawn with more vigour! See Mark xiv, 30. 
xiii, 35. Arundel’s "* Dlacoveries in Asia Minor"’—and his “ Seren Churches of 
Asia."—See also the Author's “' Obsorvations on the Phenomena of Maguetic 
Influence," as given in the Athenwum of Jeuuory 4th, 1834!—being the 
substanes of ¢ paper Jaid before the Philosophical Society of Cambridge. 





348 «THE Mos'QUES.—ASYLUM FOR THE BLIND. 


‘They also arrest the public attention by first striking a 
board with a piece of wood, as a substitute for a bell. 
We read in the Scriptures, that “the evening and the 
morning were the fifth day”’ But the Hebrew 
expression here means “ period” I believe. 

Tt is said that in Cairo, there are not fewer than 
from three to four hundred mos’ques. Some of them 
are large and splendid, being adorned with an almost 
incredible number of granite and limestone columns, 
taken from Memphis, and other of the Egyptian 
remains. It is asserted that some contain as many as 
500, and 1000 columns; and I can imagine it to be 
true. There is a ruined mos'que of this description, 
between Old and New Cairo—I certainly did not count 
the columns, but I dare say there have been nearly that 
number. The mos’ques present some fine specimens 
of Oriental architecture. It may suffice to allude to a 
few of the principal, The “ Mos’que of 100 Columns,” 
stands to the south of the present city; and in that 
part called * Mis'r el Attikt,—Mis'r the unequalled,— 
the mother of the worl Some ancient Arabic 
books have been discovered there. 1 believe the 
largest mos’que in Cairo is that of “ El Jama Azah'ar.” 
It is immensely rich, and is said to contain some valu- 
able MSS. It is perhaps really the most important 
and valuable institution in Egypt, as it affords a shelter 
and pecuniary relief to the indigent blind. It stands 
in the middle of the city; and numbers of these un- 
fortunate creatures are led thither to pray; a great 
many sleep there: Van Egmont says not less than 
2000 every night,” and that “between 5000 and 
6000 receive subsistence from it daily :"" moreover, that 
“ those who partake of its revenues, amount to 40,000, 
though many of them live in different parts of the 





ARAB COLLEGE.—SIGNS OF THE TIMES. 349 


country.""* The mos’que of “ El Azah’ar” or mos’que 
of flowers,” has been always in repute as a sort of 
‘“Medresseh,” college, or theological school, founded, 
itis said, by the Kh’aliphe Al Moez. The sons of 
persons of distinction, Scheikhs, and Beys, and learned 
men, without regard to country, sect, or tribe, used at 
one period, to come there for instruction. + 

The next mos’que in point of size is also one of 
considerable beauty. It is called the mos'que of 
“ Sultan Hassan, or Hassein.”’ It is situated immedi- 
ately at the base of the rock or hill on which the 
citadel stands; and there is a spacious square or plot 
of ground in front of it, which sets it off to great 
advantage, It is built in the form of a parallelogram : 
it has two beautiful Arabes’que minarets, and the 
centre is surmounted by a large cupola. The upper 
part of the parapet is ornamented with a deep frieze ; 


and in different compartments of the building, particu- 
larly at the sides, there is a variety of light sculpture, 
commonly denominated Gothic ; but itis more properly 
Moorish :—a style which was introduced into Europe 
by the Arabians who invaded Spain.g The mos’que 
which takes the name of “ Sultan-el-Gh’ouri,” and 
another, more recently erected at a great expense by 


* Vols tle ps 67. 

+ Van Bguoat was assured, tha shore were above fy professors or maators 
on the establishment, aud that the number of scholars and other persons then 
belonging to it, amounted to 13,000. These yee pe a agente 
all dispntes and ile by Taw ; an this reason it is, that no 
Mant rete pe Scareyaetareania in all other cities of the ‘Turkish 
dominions.'" Ali Rey (Badhin) mentions it ss the fnvourite resort of the 
Moggrebins, os far west 08 Morocco. 24 Aas none loat ite celebrity. _*' Pes, the 
Athonn of Western Africa, El Azah’ar, the portico of the East, and Mecaa thelr 
oly city, are alt nodding to thelr fall.""=—=See Jowett's Researcher, p. 120. 

$ Soe two beautiful sketches in & clever little book by Captain Fite-Morria-— 
Also Mr. May's [ilustrations ; and two similar works by Mr. Roberts, one on 
Spain, the other on Kgypt. 





350 THE CITADEL AND FORTIFICATIONS. 


Mohammed Bey Abou-D'Hah’ab, are also worthy of 
the traveller's attention. 

The Citadel holds a conspicuous position at the 
eastern extremity of Cairo, projecting from a point 
of the Mokattam range, and completely over-awing 
the town. From the ramparts is to be obtained 
perhaps one of the most interesting panoramic views 
in the world, It is a very strong place, but not 
impregnable; being at the mercy of any batteries 
which might be hastily thrown up on the ridge of the 
neighbouring heights: and which, if properly fortified 
by the Viceroy, would add iderably to its impor- 
tance. A great deal hi en done, and there was 
always one fort there, i led to defend this situation; 
but it was. only large enough to contain a garrison of 
400 men: and being commanded from the various 
eminences around, it would not be able to hold out 
very long: notwithstandi is bomb proof, A vigo- 
rous attack would doubtless be made upon it in the 
eventof'asiege, with the view of getting some heavy guns 
to bear upon the citadel.* The outworks have lately 
been strengthened, under the direction of some French 
engineers; but I imagine that fortifying Cairo is 
something like fortifying Poris—it may keep the 
people quiet, but that is all; it will not prevent 
invasion ! 

‘The approach to the fortress is very imposing; and 
reminds us of the avenue leading to Warwick Castle, 
the road being cut through solid rocks but that of 
Cairo is much more extensive: there is no occasion to 
dismount, although there are here and there flights of 
steps, the ascent being easy. Having passed the gates, 
which are massive and strong, we entered upon an 

* For a more full doscription of this fort, see Light's Travels, p. 259, 





THE ROYAL PALACE AND SERAGLIO, 351 


open court or square containing many buildings, in 
various conditions. It was here that the massacre of 
the Mamlaks chiefly took place,—an act of atrocity 
which nothing could justify: but of this hereafter. 
Immediately in front of this court, in the palace of 
Mohammed Ali, securely and substantially built, but 
neither extensive nor grand in its appearance; nor 
does the interior impress us with any extraordinary 
idea of Oriental magnificence ; albeit, His Highness 
makes Cairo his principal residence. As soon as we 
had ascended from the vestibule, we were required, in 
conformity with etiquette, to take off our red slippers, 
and leave them at the entrance to the state apartments. 
‘These are spacious and lofty ; some of them elegantly 
furnished with divans of searlet cloth and blue silk 
fringe, mats and carpets; the walls are decorated with 
beautiful specimens of the Arabesque: and there is a 
variety of carving, and painting in fresco, similar to 
that in the palace at Alexandria. The ceilings are 
supported by light columns with gilded capitals, and 
are in excellent keeping with the rest. The whole is 
chaste, and suitable to the climate ; and when brilliantly 
illuminated, may possibly be made to look very rich. 
The windows being numerous, the chambers and cor- 
ridors have a cool and cheerful aspect ; especially those 
which open upon the terraces and gardens, and which 
command a view of the distant Nile, its groves and 
kiosks. The great hall is adorned with pillars on every 
side; otherwise, like the anti-rooms adjoining, it 
exhibits nothing very remarkable. There is an old 
mos’que in the citadel, which, like all other buildings of 
the same kind, has its cupola, minaret, and galleries ; 
and within are several colonnades, cut and inscribed in 
the usual way with quotations from the Kh’oran. 





352 THE MINT.—GOLD AND SILVER CURRENCY. 


We were not indulged with a view of the ladies ; 
and descended once again to the noisy throng in the 
courts below, without encountering a single glance 
froma single black eye—except from mustachioed Jan= 
izaries, Eunuchs, Ethiopians, and Arabs of the guard! 
We were indebted to Monsieur Walmas, the Pascha’s 
chief interpreter, to whom I was introduced by Boghos 
Youssoufl Bey, for the opportunity of seeing the 
interior of the palace. I believe we were shown every 
thing to which strangers are permitted access, and 
returned home much gratified. Our * Kawaass’’* had 
orders to conduct us over all the most important of the 
government works, Accordingly, we proceeded to 
inspect the Mint, the machinery of which is still turned 
by oxen. Great improvements are taking place in 
every department. Formerly, coining here required 
great labour and dexterity ; for the persons employed 
had no other way, of melting ¢ the metal than by means 
of a pair of hand-bellows. The apparatus now in use 
is entirely new, and Monsieur D'Arcet has introduced 
a reverberatory furnace.t We deferred visiting the 
eannon-foundry and other works in the Arsenal, just 
then, as Galloway Bey the chief engineer, had kindly 
offered to conduct us thither himself. The Printing 
Office, as might be expected, is an insignificant esta- 


* Guide, 

The gold pieces which are coined in Egypt consist of sequins, and half and 
quarter sequins; and the silver pieces are plastres and parahs. ‘The sequin in 
‘worth about thirty-four piastres, the piastre being equal to three pence half peony 
Engiish, The whole of the coin, but more expecially the xilver, posseases very 
Tittle real value. As to the parahs, forty of them are reckoned to tho pinstre ¢ 
‘and they ave 0 light, thet they are not unfrequently blown away by the wind © 
thoy arg made of iron, and slightly washed over with silver, which soon begins 
to wear off: the plastres are not much better. Mohammed Ali bas lately been 
prohibited by the Sultan, from circulating any other than the currency of 
Stamboul. The government transactions and stipulated payments, are generally 
snade in “* purses," and a purse is worth 00 plastres, or about seven guiineas.— 
See Appendix, 





PRINTING.—NEWSPAPERS.—SALAH-ED-DIN. 353 


blisbment; and the only thing worth mentioning, is, 
that an effort has been made to print a newspaper,—the 
“Cairo Gazette.” We can easily conceive that the 
difficulties which an Editor must have to contend with 
in such a country, must be enormous. Where the 
population consists of almost every nation and language, 
—where there are so many different interests to serve 
—such discrepancy and caprice in regard to religion, 
polities, taste, feeling, and principle, —to say nothing 
of the jealousy and deeply rooted prejudices of the 
Ulemah, and the Scheikhs, and innumerable obstacles 
likely to be thrown in his way by the Paseha and his 
officers, the success of such an undertaking must be 
doubtful. I am afraid the prospects at present 
not very bright; let us hope they will improve; there 
is no want of talent if it is only encouraged. Credit 
is certainly due to those who have made the first attempt: 
the step is a very important one, and if promoted by the 

merchants, must ultimately lead to beneticial results. 
The next point of attraction was “Joseph's Well,” 
an object of some interest, as it reminded us of the 
famous Khaliphe Youssouff, or “ Salah-ed-Din"—a de- 
signation which being interpreted, signifies “destroyer 
of infidels and heathens ;" but which the moderns have 
converted into “ Saladin.”* [tis certainly a wonderful 
excavation, having been cut to the depth of 270 feet, 
through solid calcareous rock, and measuring at the 
opening 45 feet in diameter. It was formerly intended 
to supply the citadel with water, but it would afford a 
very seanty supply now; and might be cut off alto- 
gether in the event of a siege. Morcoyer, the reservoir 
being on a level with the Nile, it has to percolate the 
intervening strata, and it becomes brackish in conse- 

* See The History of the Crusades. 
VOL. I. aA 





354 JOSEPH'S WELL—THE SARACENS. 


quence, ‘This is not the only work of the kind to be 
met with. According to Monsieur Maillet, there are 
five other wells of a similar description, at the foot of 
the mountains near Old Cairo. We descended the 
shaft by means of a winding, spiral stair; each person 
carrying with him a wax taper. There is plenty of 
room, and the air is not unpleasant ; but the steps are 
broken, slippery, and dirty. Half way down, or at the 
depth of about 150 feet, is a large cistern, erected in a 
spacious chamber, which is filled by means of a wheel, 
turned by oxen, or buffaloes, in the same way as that 
above. The drivers and those employed with them, 
seemed to take it very easily, and were enjoying their 
pipe with perfect nonchalance. The staircase now 
becomes narrower, and there is no longer any parapet ; 
it is not worth the trouble of descending: there is 
nothing to see at the bottom but a pool of water, only 
made use of now to irrigate the palace gardens, within 
the walls of the citadel, to which it is conducted by 
pipes. On leaving “ Joseph's well,” we enquired for 
the ancient palace, the same in which the renowned 
“ Salah-ed-Din” is said to have lodged, But alas! 
a few, and very few, upright monolithic columns, a 
gateway, and part of a heavy looking wall, alone 
remained to mark the spot. Heaps of masonry, broken 
shafts, scrolls, and architraves, more or less baried in 
rubbish, were strewed about; and a modern fountain 
or tank, built by Mohammed Ali, occupied part of this 
noble site. Some of the columns, still standing, were 
most beautiful: they were light and elegant, and 
surmounted by a richly ornamented capital. But 1 
am sorry to-say, that future travellers will see no more 
of them, ‘as the workmen had commenced cutting them 
down for repairing the damage which was done in 





HALL OF THE KHALIPHE youssourr. 355 


1824, by the explosion of a magazine; and those 
which were not then demolished, have since been 
appropriated to the engineering projects of the Viceroy. 
The fate of “ Joseph's hall” is sealed !—the princely 
home of the mighty “Saladin” is destroyed! The 
favoured spot where the champions of Islam used to 
meet, and the banners of the Crescent were unfurled, 
will soon be forgotten, like a tale that is told: the 
gilded domes, the lofty spires, the painted chambers, 
which were for ages the pride and boast of the Saracens, 
will have passed away like a dream; and generations 
yet unborn will say, when the early days of chivalry are 
named :—* Man, vain, all-sufficient man, moves like a 
shadow upon the earth, and disappears;—he struts 
his hour, and plays his part, but knoweth not the end 
thereof !”—What would the Hero of the East have said 
could he have foreseen that the descendants of a line of 


kings, the faithful followers of the Prophet, would be 
treacherously overthrown; and the last blow to his 
own honour struck by a Moslem !—“ Sic transit gloria 
mundi!” 





CHAPTER XIII. 


CAIRO—VIEW FROM THE CASTLE TERRACE—TENDENCY 
OF MOHAMMED ALI’S PROCEEDINGS TO PROMOTE 
CHRISTIANITY—THE KHORAN—APOLOGY FOR THE 
PASCHA—GALLOWAY BEY—THB PRANK POPULATION 
—MOSLEM ABHORRENCE OF IDOLATRY—ESTIMA- 
TION OF EUROPEANS—ORIENTAL LITERATURE— 
DISEASES OF THE HEART; ASTHMA; CONSUMPTION = 
—DONKEY BOYS—THE ASS OF L'HASSA—IDOLS OF 
MNEVIS AND APIS—THE CITY OF “ON” —THE 
SHEPHERD KINGS—GOSHEN—THE COTTON PLANT— 
“QIN SHEMYSS”—" TREE OF THE MADONNA” —THE 
NILOMETER OF HELIOPOLIS—BORING FOR WATER 
IN THE WILDERNESS, ETC. 


‘Tux view from the castle terrace is one of the finest 
that can be imagined. Near at hand, is the modern 
city, irregular in shape, but somewhat resembling a 
quadrant ; rising above the flat roofs of the houses, we 
distinguish the gloomy walls of the Greek and Latin 
convents, numerous tapering minarets, and graceful 
domes interspersed with trees; and looking down upon 
the square in which the noble mos’que of Sultan 
Hassan is situated, we observe near the outlets of 
several streets, numberless persons of all descriptions 
moving about, camels reposing, or passing to and fro, 
and soldiers exercising :—the eye is then attracted by 
the Nile, its cand’gias, plantations, and kiosks; 
D’germs laden with cotton, earthenware, or grain ; the 





PANORAMIC VIEW OF ‘CAIRO. 357 


beautiful little island of “Er-Rhouddah,” thickly 
planted with acacias and sycamores; and an almost 
infinite variety of objects which the suburbs present. 
‘To the north-east are the buildings and port of Boulac, 
together with the gardens and palace of Shoubra on 
the one side; and on the other, the supposed site of 
Memphis, the ancient aqueduct, a Saracen fort, the 
pyramids of D’gizeh, Sakb’arah, Darshour, and 
Abousir :—to the east and south-east, the  Mokattam” 
hills, rocky and barren, extending in some places to 
the river; at others, receding and leaving a plain; 
which in former times was well cultivated, but which, 
is now, in many parts neglected :—stretching beneath 
these broken craggs, the new town, and the Nile, are 
the ruins and summer retreats of Fostit, (Old Cairo,) 
the Persian Babylon, and the site of a Roman garrison 
called Troy; beyond which, are the extensive quarries 
of Mount Attikéh, whence, we have reason to believe, 
the stone was taken for the building of Pharaoh's 
celebrated “ Store Cities’ &c.; but the view to the 
eastward, is more drear and melancholy, consisting 
only of sterile rocks, and mounds of sand, leading by 
$ blic burial grounds, and the cemeteries of the 
Kha'liphes, to the wilderness. 

It has been justly remarked, that few spots present, 
in so small a compass, such an extraordinary assemblage 
of interesting objects; for ancient and modern times 
are strangely blended in the associations which they 
awaken, We are transported, at one moment, to the 
days of the Patriarchs,—at another to those of the 
Mamliks and the Christians: if we look towards the 
north-east, our attention is directed to the Obelisque 
of Heliopolis, the mud villages of Matarieh, and the 
once fertile plains of Goshen, in the time of Jacob, 





358 TENDENCY OF M. ALI'S SCHEMES 


the “richest of the land, even the land of Rameses—” 
but now a parched waste; and the doings of Joseph 
and Moses, the Pharaohs, Cyrus, and Alexander, and 
of a long line of princes, distinguished by their virtues, 
by their eruelty, or by feats of arms, crowd in quick 
succession upon the imagination. Nor are the days 
of Egypt’s pomp and glory, when Sesostris led his 
warriors to the field, and Israel toiled beneath the 
Egyptian yoke, forgotten !—Instinctively we ask— 
“« Where is Memphis ?"’—Echo answers, ‘* where ?"— 
‘The finger then points to a spot at the base of the Libyan 
mountains, which is scarcely to be distinguished from 
the Desert itself, and where not a single vestige of a 
town is to be seen! ‘his, the beauty of the whole 
scene, the glowing nature of the climate, the costumes 
of the people, and every object around us, combine to 
rivet the attention ; whilst the history of Mobammed, 
the persecution of the sword, the progress of 
Christianity, and a variety of other important matters 
which relate to the story of mankind, pass in review 
before us. But still the mind reverts with pleasure to 
the events of modern times; and although it revolts at 
the recollection of the suflerings of the present gene- 
ration, it is nevertheless consoled by the idea that the 
strenuous and unceasing exertions made by Mohammed 
Ali, must tend sooner or later, to civilization. Of 
course it is a work of time ; and we cannot but regret 
that the Pascha's impatience to see his plans put in exe- 
cution before he dies, should induce him to hurry them 
forward at such a reckless sacrifice of human life. 
The eyes of the natives are gradually opening, not 
only in Egypt, but in Syria, and other parts of the 
East, The Viceroy is fighting in the great cause of 
Christianity, although he knows it not; for the light 





TO PROMOTE CHRISTIANITY, 35g 


of his eyes is obscured, and his understanding darkened. 
He is paving the way for the gospel of Christ, in every 
possible manner :—Ist, by neglecting the law of the 
Prophet :—2dly, by contrasting his own enormities 
with the generosity, justice, and noble demeanour of 
the Christians, by which he has secured the hatred 
of his subjects, and diminished his own resources:— 
Sdly, by receiving so many Christians into his service 5 
by exalting them (o the highest posts of honour; by 
employing them in his army and navy, in the dock-yard, 
in the citadel, and manufactories ; by adopting their 
‘manners and costumes; by receiving the produce of 
their country with avidity ; and by consulting them on 
all occasions: but chiefly by opposing the decrees of 
the Sultan; who, be it remembered, is no less a person 
than the representative of the Prophet himself: and 
who, until now, had been implicitly obeyed, if not 
respected ; and regarded as an object of fear and 
extreme veneration! In Egypt, however, the Pascha 
has led the way to disobedience, by setting bis master 
at defiance; by proclaiming him a tyrant, and holding 
him up to universal contempt! Mohammedanism is on 
the wane, the axe is already laid at the root of the 
tree, and it will not be very long ere the fatal blow is 
struck ; it is becoming every day weaker and weaker, 
for want of the nourishment it has been accustomed to 
receive from ignorance and fanaticism. He who 
should be one of the chief cultivators of the soil in 
which it is placed,—he who should dig about its roots, 
prune it, and protect it, taking care to watch it narrowly, 
and lopp off its more cumbrous branches, has long since 
suffered the weeds to grow and wind themselves about 
its stem, together with numberless parasitical plants, 
which, preying upon its branches, havecaused it todege- 
nerate and decay ; and now that it is unprotected, so far 





360 INJUNCTIONS OF THE PROPUET. 


from interposing his skill in aid of the chief gardener. 
of the vineyard, (the representative of him who planted 
it and gaye it in charge to him,) he has altogether 
quitted his and acted in direct opposition to his 
will! He has not only refused to improve the soil, 
but he has suffered other plants to vegetate and flourish 
beneath its very branches, bear fruit, and obtain favour 
in the sight of those, who should, according to the 
instructions they have received, have long since tram- 
pled them under foot. In other words, if Mohammed 
Ali persists in his present course a little longer, (and 
assuredly he will,) it is very easy to perceive that he 
will depriye the Mohammedan religion of the only 
remaining props which sustain it; for by encouraging 
the Christians to come and settle in his dominions, the 
sons of Islam will become enlightened, and feel less 
inclined to wage war with the “infidels ;” whereas ac- 
cording to the injunctions of their Prophet, both they 
and their rulers ought to persecute and destroy them 
whenever an opportunity occurs:—beeause “they 
desire,” says the Khoran, ‘that ye should become 
infidels, as they are infidels, and that ye should be 
equally wicked with themselves.” * 

It is a great mistake, however, to suppose, as many: 
do, that it was ever intended by the Prophet, that his 
followers should attack and shed the blood of the 
Christians from mere wantonness; and those who read 
the Khoran, will soon be convinced that such barbarity 
is deprecated in the strongest terms. The Mussulmaun 
is exhorted to “fight for the religion of God,” but he 
is also expressly forbidden to be cruel; and he is told 
that, although it is his duty ‘to excite the faithful to 
war—perbaps God will restrain the courage of the un- 

* Sale's Khoran, rol. ls p. 101. 





IDOLATRY AND PERSECUTION, 361 


believers, for that God is stronger than they, and more 
able to punish.”* The rigid Moslem makes little dis- 
tinction between Christians and Pagans, inasmuch as 
ail are equally unbelievers, and therefore guilty of a 
crime which he conceives cannot be overlooked. 
‘Yet, notwithstanding, those who subscribe to the “true 
faith,” are commanded to employ their riches in 
defence of their religion ;"’ they are admonished also to 
be moderate, to refrain from violence, to be mereiful, 
and to pardon; for God loveth the beneficent.”” 
‘This is indeed the whole spirit of the Khoran, and it 
should not be misunderstood. Many, itis true, through 
over zeal, ignorance, or fanaticism, have been led to 
misinterpret the statements of the Prophet ; and there 
are not wanting those who have made religion a 
pretext for the perpetration of deeds too horrible to 
think of: albeit, there is no subject on which the 
writer of the Khoran has dwelt with more clearness 
and precision, throughout the whole volume than this. 
As Christians, therefore, it cannot but be a source of 

* Sale’s Khoran, rol. is p. 100. + Tp. 120. 

Flt," says Mobammed, "forthe rliglu of God aginst thove who fight 
‘against you, Dut fransgrese not by attacking them firet; for God loveth not the 
transgreesors, And kill them wherever ye find thom, and torn them out of that 
whereof they have digpousessed you! for temptation fo idolatry i# more grievous 
than slaughter y yot fight not ogainst them in the holy temple, until they attack 
you therein : but if they attack you, slay them éhere. ‘This sball be the reward 
ofingdels, But if they desist, Gud is yractous and mercifud. Fight therefore 
rgainst them until there be no temptation fo idolatry, and the religion be God's: 
‘bat if they doxist, then let there be no hostility, except against the ungodlly."" 

“Contribute out of your eulstence toward the defence of the religion of God, 
‘and throw not yourselees with your own hands into perdition j and do good, for 
Gud loveth thove who do good. § 

Tn another place alsa we read that God purposed to make kuown the truth 
in his words, and to out off the uttermost part of the unbelievers; that he might 
verify the truth, and destroy falsehood, although the wicked wore averse 
thereunto, Also, when the Lord spake wsto the Angels, saying, Verily, C am 
with you : wherefore confirm those who believe. I will east a dreait into the 


§ Sale’s Khoran, vol. i, py 326 








362 APOLOGY FOR THE PASCHA: 


great delight to us, whilst ing upon the ramparts, 
and contemplating this enutifud Se (which brings 
to our recollection the leading events of so. many 
different ages,) to kuow that desirable alterations are 
taking place. We deeply lament the sufferings which 
individuals are compelled to endure in consequence of 
the despotic measures adopted, especially as they are 
uncalled for; but we rejoice at the prospect of speedy 
and advantageous results, 

Nobody could do otherwise than approve of the 
Pascha’s conduct, if he would show some merey 
towards the people, and not attempt to accomplish all 
at once. The same good would then be effected; the 


hearts of the unbelievers. ‘Therefore strike off ¢heir heads, and strike off all 





“is the punishment ex 
enemles of the Mohammedan religion ; though the Moslems did not intlict it om 
Sie pcbers they cook ut Bett, oe which they are reprehended ia this 
chapter." 
‘Tho Kboran continues, “‘ Oh teve believers, when ye mest the unbelierera 
marching éa great wumbers against you. tara not your backs unto then 
for wboso shall turn tis back unto them on that day, unless he turueth 
sido to fight, oF retreateth to another party of the failiful, shall draw on 
Limwelf the indignation of God, It ie supposed hy Mr. Salo, that by 
‘the axpressions last quoted, “God dorigned religion by axtir~ 
wating ite adversaries; but so snnguinary an idea is better suited to the 
taste of the Propet, than the Divine Being; and 1 should cousider this like 


‘thove who wilfully transgress the commands of their Maker ; bat not that it was 
(ntended man should kill his fellow with impunity: though it would certainly 
reem, if we take into account the various atrocious acts that haye been com~ 
mitted on the plea of religion, against che Christisns, that this passage bas at 
‘times been similarly interpreted, and acted upon by the patives, who thought, 
or ho ta let appear, chat by destroying a Chitin dep, tag wore tendering 
God service; and hence the awful massacres that have occurred in the Archipelago 
and other places, upon the unfortunate Greeks, the Jews, and all who refured to 
‘embrace the religion of the Prophet: for such would be without distinction, 
denominated “infidels—eaters of the unclean beast—the accursed of the 
earth |" Be. 





* Sale’s Khoran, vol. Lp. 202. 3 Th. vol. i. p. 202. 
+ Sale's Khoran, vol. i, p, 203, note. 





ANTICIPATED CHANGES. 363 


work of civilization would proceed more surely 5 

the Viceroy himself would be raised to the highest = 
nacle of glory, as the founder of a new dynasty of kings, 
and as a dispenser of blessings to mankind! Could 
he be induced to act on something like principle, and 
(imitating the example of a Bedoueen chief) prove 
himself truly the father of bis people,—we would gladly 


ig as he is stimulated by ambition, and we 

continue to be eye-witnesses of his tyranny, we cannot 
do so conscientiously, I would much rather praise 
than condemn, but the Pascha’s character is not to be 
admired. I am most anxious to do him justice, and I 
freely express my conviction that much good will 
ultimately arise from his proceedings. His cruelties 
to the present race of Egyptians are nothing in 
comparison of the benefits which will accrue to their 
posterity,—as well as to the neighbouring nations, nearly 
all of which are now in pagan darkness. The thought 
is pleasing ;—I can foresee that he is preparing the way 
for mighty changes in the kingdoms of the eastern world. 
Striving for his own aggrandizement, he has been a 
scourge to many in his generation; but he is never- 
theless, an insignificant being in the eyes of that God 
who disposes the events of the earth. But out of evil 
will proceed good:—many things have yet to be 
fulfilled ; and Mohammed Ali may be regarded as the 
chief pioneer who is clearing away the main obstacles 
to the perfection of the Almighty's beneficent designs.* 
There is not a finer people any where to be met 
with, taking them all in all, than the Arabs. They 
are easily conciliated, and only require to be encouraged 


* Tho mineteonth and thirty-Afth Chapters of Teaiah, seems to apply here as 
in time past, 





304 THE VICEROY AND HIS AGENTS. 


and instructed. Give them a just and wise govern~ 
ment, and they may be moulded to any thing. 

Almost all the important changes which have latterly 
been effected in Egypt, are associated more or less, 
with an individual whose exertions have been so great, 
that they deserve to be commemorated by every 
traveller. To the day of his death, he employed his 
best energies in the Pascha’s service. 

Mohammed Ali and his agents, may not inaptly be 
compared to a complicated piece of machinery. 
several parts we may suppose to consist of those 
Europeans who hold responsible situations. As long 
as they are kept in order, and act simultaneously, the 
machine, or in other words, the tremendous under- 
takings of the Viceroy, may work well, but no longer! 
The individual to whom I have alluded, was one of the 
main springs which moved the whole. He super- 
intended nearly all the proceedings at the citadel, he 
had the entire management of the iron works, the 
foundry, the boring of cannon, the various steam- 
engines and apparatus, the engineering department, &e. 
&c.; and the operations of the rail-road then attempting 
to be formed, but which has since proved a failure, 
were to be placed solely under his direction. 1 think 
I have mentioned quite enough to show that his ap- 
pointment was no sinecure, and that to acquit himself 
with only tolerable success, required a very considerable 
share of talent and assiduity; especially when assisted 
by such a motley group of subordinates as were placed 
at his disposal! Those who have been in Egypt will 
have already perceived that the subject of this 
eulogy is Mr. Thomas Galloway. During a long 
residence among the Arabs, he had made himself ac- 
quainted with their language, manners, and usages ;— 





HIS ENERGY AND THIRST FOR POWER, 365 


and as some earnest of the estimation in which he was 
held by the Pascha, he was exalted to the high dignity 
of Bey! (prince). To Mr. Thomas Galloway, 
therefore, we may attribute a great deal of the success 
of Mohammed Ali's schemes; and whatever good may 
hereafter accrue to mankind in consequence of the bold 
measures of an individual who has played so conspi- 
cuous a part in the history of the world, must be 
referred in a great degree, to the talents and mental 
energy of that gentleman. No one who visits the 
citadel can be otherwise than delighted ;—few persons 
are prepared to witness such important and extensive 
operations, If any man might be expected to succeed 
in difficult undertakings, it is the Pascha of Egypt. 
He has all the desire to do it, and to attempt much 
more than he does;—for whatever is represented to 
him as advantageous or useful, he would immediately 
adopt, without considering how he is to obtain the 
means, He seems to forget that civilization and 
power are plants of slow growth, and that in Egypt, 
they are only just now beginning to sprout. Whenever 
he hears of any thing that is new to him, he strives to 
adopt it; and let it be what it may, it must be 
done directly: shutting his eyes to the facts that many 
of the schemes which he desires to introduce, are in- 
compatible with his resources; and that even in Europe, 
they have been years in being brought about. Such, 
however, is his ardour, and such is his extraordinary 
thirst for improvement and novelty, that he admits of 
no check. Like Napoleon, when he commenced his 
campaign in Russia, he will hear of no denial, nor will 
he be told that any thing to him is impossible! 
Ambition is his prevailing passion, and it has led him 
to commit many atrocious acts. Whether his Turkish 





366 ROMAN CATHOLICS, GREEKS, AND MOSLEMS, 


education may justify or palliate them, 1 leave others 
todecide. Asto the swarmsof French, Italians, Greeks, 
Maltese, andLevantines that he employs, with very few 
exceptions (unless we limit our enquiry to labourers and 
mechanics) they are, it must be confessed, of com- 
paratively little use to him; and certainly many of 
those who have crept into office, and by effrontery or 
some lucky chance, rather than merit, have been 
elevated to posts of honour, are persons that he would 
be much better without, being men of low character, 
and grovelling ideas. 

How all the sharp-featured, needy looking men, 
that we see lounging about the Frank quarter, contrive 
to live, is a problem not easily solved. Some of them 
are not recognized by the Pascha, and he is always in 
arrears with those that are;—yet they appear gay, 
careless, and dissipated. Europeans have certainly 
nothing to thank ‘them for,—for it is from such as 
these that the supercilious Mussulmauns form their 
estimate of the Christian character. ‘They take it for 
granted that all Christians are alike; and as they know 
that the members of the Greek, Romish, and Ar- 
menian churches, admit statues and pictures within the 
walls of their sacred edifices, which is contrary to the 
Mohammedan law, they sect us down at once for 
tdolaters ; and we are consequently an abomination in 
their eyes. They detest the sight of a hat and the 
sound of a bell, because they are immediately reminded 
of Christianity. The mass of the people have no idea 
that, as among Mohammedans, so among Christians, 
there are different sects and nations. They are strictly 
enjoined to abjure and contend against any thing that 
savours of idolatry. So particular are they on this 
point, that they disapprove of pictures altogether, and 





CHRISTIANITY AND MOHAMMEDANISM. 367 


think it asin to have their portrait taken ; as, according 
to the Mosaic dispensation, (from which the Khoran 
was chiefly compiled,) it is a transgression for man 
“to make unto himself the likeness of any thing that 
is in Heaven above, or upon the earth beneath,” which 
saying they take in its most literal sense; for they do 
not even put a figure-head to their ships, unless it be 
the sun, (an instance of which I once saw,) and which, 
I suppose, like the ancient Egyptians, they may 
regard as the “ great vivifying principle,” the “ author 
of the universe,—the Deity!” 

Very numerous passages of the Khoran might be 
adduced in illustration of the Moslem creed: there 
are some which it may not be improper to allude to in 
this place; for they not only apply to the subject 
under consideration, but they comprise in a few words 
certain of those excellent points of doctrine which are 
common to Christianity and Mohammedanism, ‘There 
is, for instance, an exhortation to faith, prayer, and 
zeal in the cause of religion; patience, temperance, 
firmness. We are reminded of our own unworthiness, 
and of our dependence on the Providence of God. 
We are warned of the instability of human affairs, the 
uncertainty of life, the certainty of death, and we 
are assured that there is a future state of reward and 
punishment, 

Few persons in Europe have a correct or unpreju- 
diced idea of the Mussulmaun faith; and [ trast I shall 
be excused for introducing the accompanying extract 
in a work of this kind.* Every one should read the 
Khoran, and we are greatly indebted to Mr. Sale for 

* “Kill the idolaters wheresoever ye sball Gnd them, and takethem prisoners, 
and Desiegs them, and lay walt for them in every convenient place, If any of 


the dolaters aball demand protection, of thee, grant Aim protection, that he may 
hear the word of God; andl afterwards let him reach the place of his accutity. 





368 THE BIBLE OF THE BAST A GOOD HOOK. 


his excellent translation of it. I merely wish to draw 
the attention of Christians to the subject, and to let 





‘Thi whatt thow do, bocuuse they are psople which know not the exeelleacy af 
the religion thow preachevt." 

“* Goll is well nequainted with that which ye do, It is not diag that the 
Wdolatora should visit the templos of God, being witneesce agsinat their own souls 
of their infidelity. The works of these men ure vain, they shall remain in bell-fire 
for ever. Hut be only shall visit the temples of God who believeth in God, and the 
last apes constant at prayer, and payeth the Legal nlms, and fesreth God 

0." 


- The likens of thone who take other patrons besides God, is as the tikenene 
‘of the spider, which maketh herself a house; but the woakost of all houses, 
Moreover, God knoweth 


constant ia prayer, for prayer preserveth a mon from fiithy erimes, and from 
that which is blamesble: and the remembering of God is earelya moet important 
duty. God knoweth that which ye do," &. “Every soul shall taate heath ¢ 
afterwards he sbull eetura wato us; and as for those who shall have believed. 
and wrought righteousness, we will surely lodge them in the higher apartment 
of Paradise,”” *' How execlient will be the reward of the workers of righfenwe~ 
‘nevs, who persevere with pera, ‘andl pat their trast in the Lord! 
beasts are there whieh provide mot their food! It is God that prov 
for them and for you j and Tle both heareth and knoweth. Verily ifthon ask the 
Meecans who hath created the heavens and the earth, aud who hath obliged the 
san and the moon to serve in their courses? they will auswer—" Goal" How 
therefore do they lie in acknowledging of other Gods? God maketh abundant 
provision for such of his servants as he pleaseth and is sparing wnto him, {fe 
plearoth , for God koowoth all things. Verily, if thou nak them, who sendeth 
‘rain from heaven, and thereby quiokeneth theenrth, after it hath been dead? they 
willanswer, “ God,"—ond say, “God be praised!” Bat the greater part of them 
do not understand, ‘This present ife is no other than atoy, and a plaything: hot 
the future mansion of paradise ia Ufo indeed: if they know this, they would wot 
prefer the former to the latter, When they sail in a ship, they eall upon God 
sincerely, exhibiting anto him the (rue religion: bat when he bringeth them sale 
to land, behold, they rotarn to thoir idolatry ) to show thetnselves ungrateful for 
‘hat which we have bestowed on them, and that they may enjoy the deNghte nf 
this lifes vat they shall hereafter know the feswe, Do they not see that we 
have made the ferrilory af Mecea an inviolable and tecure axylayn, when men 
‘are spoiled in the countries round about them? Do they therefare believe in 
that which is vain, aod scknowledge not the goodneks of God? Bat who in 
more unjust than he who devieeth a lie ngninst God, or denicth the truth, when 
it hath come unto him? Is there not in hell ax abode for the wubeliovers? 
‘Whoever do their utmost endeavour to promote our true religion, we will direct 
‘them Into our ways; for God ix with the sighteous.""f 





* Sale’s Khomnn, vol. fi. pp. 23. 4. 
+ Ib. vol. ii, chap. 90. p. 255. 6, 7, 





ITS DOCTRINES OFTEN PERVERTED, 369 


ther see that the « Bible of the East” is a book which 
may be read without contamination. It will appear 
from the specimens I have selected, that its 
contain much that is good; and it would be ell if 
those who take it for their guide, would consistently 
adhere to the principles it inculeates: but I am sorry 
to say, their meaning is often perverted, and the 
blessings which the Khoran promises are abused ot 
disregarded. There are nevertheless, many very 
excellent and truly pious men among Mohammedans, 
They worship the same God as we do, although they 
deny Christ; but they equally abhor idolatry and 
irreligion, They set us a good example in many 
things, and are, upon the whole, a simple and well- 
meaning people. They are, it is true, illiterate and 
rude; consequently stubborn, superstitious, narrow- 
minded, and not unfrequently fanatical. Their 
passions are strong, but they are for the most part, 
conscientious, and guided by the dictates of reason; 
however mistaken they may be in their views. They 
are generally hospitable, and scrupulously keep their 
word; they exercise a mutual confidence, and are just 
and honorable in all their dealings : but their intercourse 
with the world is contracted, and they are ignorant of 
the blessings of a fostering government. Under the 
idea therefore of enjoying life, and stimulated by 
the influence of a glowing climate, (especially if 
they have wealth and power,) they give themselves 
up to luxury and excess; and not having any intel~ 
lectual resource, they are constantly in search of new 
pleasures, some of which, if they do not lead to strife 
and bloodshed, afford but a temporary gratification, 
and leave behind them apathy and discontent. 
Notwithstanding so many improvements are taking 
you. I. BB a 





370 THE REMOTER PROVINCES.— NISRANI.” 


place in Egypt, those whose destiny it is to remain in 
the remoter provinces are very little altered since the 
time of Norden, Burckhardt, and other trayellers : 
the light of civilization can hardly be said to have 
dawned upon them; indeed, such is the intellectual 
darkness which pervades the land, that there is seareely 
an individual to be found who bas anything like a 
correct idea of Europeans. Of the English they have 
seen very little; and this is the case even in Lower 
Egypt. They have chiefly been thrown in the way of 
French and Italians, who, they are well aware, have 
images and pictures in their churches; from which they 
conclude that the “Nisrani,”* or “ Porci,"f (as the 
Christians are sometimes called) are a set of base 
idolaters —an unclean, dangerous, and wicked people, 
that “fear not God”—unbelievers—* accursed dogs,” 
that have “no souls,” and for whom there is neither 
provision in heaven nor on earth—“ an unsainted and 
defiled race,” that are for ever excluded from the 
‘joys of Paradise.” But it is somewhat pleasing to 
find that the more they do see of us, the more they are 
prepossessed in our favour; for they are beginning to 
find out that there is a difference between Protestants 
and Roman Catholics—Englishmen and Frenchmen, 
Ttalians, and Maltese; and that, although we are all 
unbelievers” alike, still the English have no images 
in their churches, and we have got into their good 
books in consequence ; besides, they say we are good 
sailors, and that we make the best guns and knives, 
broadcloth, and clocks, and telescopes, and they love 
us for all these good things, especially as we treat 
them kindly, and they now begin to understand us.f 


© Nazarines. + Hoge. 
t Tho corvette * Dido,” when lying off the Alexandrian coast, sent a boat 
fashors at Ramali for a supply of dates, and obtained n cargo of them without 





ABAB ESTIMATION OF ISLANDERS, 371 


‘The late campaign in Syria, and the bombardment of 
Acre by the British Admirals, have also raised us not 
a little in their estimation. Some good-natured friend 
had whispered into the ear of their understanding that 
England is a yery “little place,” a mere “speck” in 
the midst of the sea, and they were disposed to think 
lightly of us. Their opinion is now changed, and they 
prefer us to the French; although the vivacity of our 
neighbours is more in accordance with their taste than 
English gravity, and there is nothing in our plain, 
straight forward dealings, at all calculated to ingratinte 
a lively set of men like the Arabs. People who inha~ 
bit an immense territory, and have seldom an oppor 
tunity of seeing the ocean, have very little conception 
of a country like Great Britain, and they are apt to 
think disparagingly of islanders. When I was in 
Upper Egypt, I was told that the English were nobody, 
for that they lived upon an island, and must therefore 
get their living by “ catching fish !—that it was im+ 
possible they could be a great nation; for that ‘ Ele- 
phantina” was an island, and the people who lived 
there were nothing! This is a very original idea 
certainly; for Elephantina is a miserable, ruinous 
place indeed—an island, to be sure, of about @ mile in 
circumference! It is situated on the Nubian frontier, 
and forms a part of the Egyptian boundary. Its 





being perceived by the camp in the acighbourhood. ‘The poor Fellabeen pen~ 
santry gave themselves up for lost, and hastened to cut down thelr fruit to satiafy 
‘the mandates of the ‘* Giaours,’” on the principle of Mrs. Hardcastle. ‘* Take 
all we have, good Mr. Highwayman, but xpare our lives!” We many easily then 
judge of their astonisbanent, when the blue jackets pulled out their ailver, and 
clubbed together to pay them half.s-dollar a bunch for what they had taken— 
about twice as much as they would have been sold for in the market! They 
xinco continually enquire, ‘When will the Bnglish como again? Wher will 
they ait come! There are plenty more dates for them."—Eatract of » Letter 
from the Mediterranean. 


Be? 





372 THE GEOGRAPHICAL KNOWLEDGE, 


inhabitants are very wretched, tattoo their faces, wear 
rings in their noses, and run about naked! Ofcourse 
every island is like Elephantina, and we have therefore 
n bright specimen afforded us of the natives of poor 
old England !* The geographical knowledge of the 
Egyptians and other Asiatics is very scanty; compara~ 
tively few are able to understand what Europe is, or 
where it is; and how should it be otherwise, when 
they have never been instructed? We cannot then be 
surprised if they, and other semi-barbarous nations 
who inhabit regions remote from the sea, and enjoy a 
very limited intercourse with Europeans, should form 
a ridiculous estimate of our character. 

Scattered through the works of that delightful writer, 
Mr. Morier (whose delineations of character are sure 
passed by none) we find much information on this 
subject. He has well pourtrayed the contempt in 
which the Persians profess to hold the Franks, and he 
has done it in such a quaint and amusing way, that no 
doubt many persons imagine it is intended as a bur- 
lesque ; but this is not the case: he has preserved the 
principal facts of history, and given ample proof of his 
powers of observation. His account is consistent with 
the feeling which very generally prevails in the East 
respecting Europeans, who are regarded as an unclean, 
rebellious people, spread over an extensive territory 
denominated “ Frangistan," or, as the Chinese ima~ 
gined, wandering like the Dutch, always on the sea, 
without any territory at all! His statements have been 
confirmed by Fraser and others, from whose writi 
we may also derive considerable amusement and in- 


* Various similar instances came under my observation, in the cours of my 
‘travels, both in Turkey, Asia Minor, and Palestine; and J found that even some 
‘of the authorities who might be expected to be more enlightened, entertained of 
Europeans the most absurd and extravagant votious, 





AND LITERATURE OF ASIATICS. 373 


struction.” It will scarcely be supposed by the people 
of this country, that in Persia or in Egypt any such 
perfect ignorance can exist; but so it is, and I am the 
more anxious to impress this subject on the minds of 
my readers, because it serves to illustrate how very 
little the European character is understood in the 
East ; and how easy it would be to fan the expiring 
embers of prejudice into a flame, and to rekindle the 
brand of animosity, if it formed a part of the Persian 
or Egyptian policy to excite an ill feeling against us. 
This is not a matter of mere speculation, for the 
first step to improvement is the removal of prejudice, 
But there is no nation on the face of the earth which 
has so favourable an opportunity of enlightening man- 
kind as the English, because there is no nation whose 
commercial intercourse is so great, and which under- 
stands the art of colonizing so well. As long as any 
unkind feeling exists between us and the people we 
wish to improve, any attempt to inculcate new doctrines 
would clearly fail, the mind not being prepared to 
receive instruction. The Chinese, for instance, con- 
sider themselves superior to every nation under the 
sun, and will not listen to us. The Persians do the 
same, yet they are allowed to be the politest of all 
Asiatics: they are fond of literature for its own sake, 
but possess only a scanty store of learning. The 
diffusion of knowledge by the discovery of the art of 
printing seems to have been in part withheld from the 
inhabitants of Asia, which is somewhat surprising, 
since India has been so long in the hands of tha 
English, Their writings consist chiefly, if not entirely, 


* Soe Zorab, the Hostage,” “* Had'gj Babs, at homeand abroad,'* “ Ayesha,"* 
‘&e. by Morier. Also ‘*'The Khan's Tule of a Caravanserai," “The Kazzil~ 
“ The Porsian Adventurer,” and ‘ Travels to Porsts,’* by Braser, 





374 LUDICROUS ACCOUNT OF RUROPEANS = 


of poesy and other works of imagination, the moral of 
which is, however, for the most part good. 

But concerning the country of the Franks, our 
habits, institutions, and laws, they betray the most 
profound ignorance, and evidently entertain the most 
crude and ludicrous ideas. Of course they profess for 
us the greatest possible contempt ; and, until we are 
raised in their estimation, it is not to be supposed that 
they will attend to that which we may have to commu- 
nieate, either in regard to religion or anything else. 
The same may be said of the Egyptians, and the 
natives of central Africa; although these are more 
humble in their manner, a little more taciturn, and 
certainly more tractable and more respectful than their 
boasting, adulatory neighbours, the Persians.” 


several kings, and consisting of various tribes, which shave their chins, weer 


hate and tight clethos, ae cat pork, worship imager, and do not believe 
han an ounce of dust” beneath the fret of 
+ dogs of Ambanmadora" ereste arach 


race, which send the Persians cloth z 

‘most anoient rnce of the unbelievers. That the Muscorites are an unclean and 
‘accursed generation ; that they are governed by men and women by turns; tbat 
they put thelr sovereigns to death when they please ; and that one end of their 
country is Tost in eternal snows, whilat the other ie burnt up with the heat. 
‘That the Spanish, Portuguese, and Italians are nothing even in Frangisten, and 
that the Dutch, Danes, and Swedes, aro very little ;—that the former have 
always beca known by their dollars and dervishes (monks or priests), who pay 
sums of money into the treasury for the privilege of building churches (or rather 
convents), and ringing belle;—that the Papa (or Pope) is their Khéliphe, and 
Vives in Italy ; but that, besides the Papa, there was another Khiliphe in Beans 
fistan, who, they say, was very mighty, being a ' two-edged sword,” and a 





THEIR MANITS AND PROPENSITING. 375. 


Such was the prejudice that existed against Euro- 
peans in the time of Norden, that no traveller could as- 
cend the Nile without being exposed to every insult, 
and yery often obliged to defend himself vi et armis. 
Now, being more accustomed to see strangers, so far 
from offering any molestation, they would do anything 
to oblige us, because we pay them for their services, 
and treat them kindly, which the Turks and authorities 
do not. Nevertheless, in the remoter districts, they 

we not yet learned to understand us. Having very 
little enjoyment themselves, they wonder what we come 
there for, and what inducement there can be for those 
who seer to possess all they want, to go turning over 
dust and rubbish, and collecting stones and figures! 
Accordingly they jamp to the conclusion that we are 





+ killer of Hons ;" chat he was called ‘Bonou Poort," and that he was the 
father of all the Infidels ;—that he was s0 much feared, that at the sound of his 
name every man's liver would drop, and hit henrt-strings crack; for that be 
used, to tala of mare heads in a won than any oer oe ln yesr)—that bo 
‘was « very ‘ Shaitan"” in battle, and that he once came to fight against the true 
belicverny but that the strength of hin arm wax taken away, and his brain 
shrivelted up benenth the sword of "Islam," the moment tho standard of the 
"Prophet was raised ; and that the ‘*dibs""t came and picked the Bones of all the 
bd one that came with him! ‘That as to the “ Shah Ingliz,"” he holds only 

sn imaginary power, and that a common Agah in Persia hax more at his com 
‘oands. Bor chat ha dere nok betioad isle, must Sac oat of Bi earth 
‘Lim to death, Moreover, that there are houses in England full of madmen, who 
“quarrel and fight, and that nothing ia done until they have wrangled about it;— 
that all the people have red halrand blue eyes; that they make good brosd cloth, 
watches, arms, gunpowder, telescopes, and penkuives; that they live on an 
sland all the year round, and have no ** Kishlak,” or warm region, to migrate 
ton the winter; that, being on an island, there is often m scarcity of com, 40 
they build ships, and ‘go to other countries to fatch food ; that they are fond of 
pork and wine, and, being always surrounded by water, eat muoh fish that 
many of thew Live Iu their ships, and are all good sailora ; that they ncithor 
row fice nor tobacco; that they are without horses, and never fee! the heat of 
‘tho sun in order that they may be fed and clothed, howerer, that they regularly 
‘send xrnhassalors to pay the respect which is duo ax tom superior, and to wore 
ship af the throne of the * King of Kings !"'—Morier, Fraser, #0, 

_—_———— 





t Hyena. 


. 





376 = NATIVE CURIOSITY.—THE EVIL EYE. 


constantly groping after treasure, and must be yery 
avaricious and idolatrous; and (as they never see us 
pray) that we have no God!—that “ Issa Ben 
Mariam,” * of whom they hear so much, is only called 
a Prophet because he protected us from our enemies, 
and was a good man; but that we carry away all the 
images we can get, to put in our public places and 
houses of refuge, to keep away the “evil eye,” and to 
worship in the hour of need, when there is a searcity 
of food, during the prevalence: of disease, and when we 
make war with other “tribes.” Accustomed to be 
ruled with a rod of iron, and having never passed the 
boundary of their own territory, they naturally judge 
others by themselves; and they think that nobody 
would come all the way from “ Frangistan” to a 
ruinous country like theirs, which abounds in misery, 
unless he had some very important object in view, and 
they therefore set their wits at work to devise what it 
can be that tempts us. They believe that gold grows 
in “ Frangistan,” and that on this account the Pascha 
likes to keep friends with the infidels. They follow us 
wherever we go, asking for “ fluss" (money), and 
“backscheesh” (a present). Very little satisfies them 
for the time; but they think they have only to ask and 
have; and if they go away, they do not forget to send 
their neighbours and friends. They make hard bar- 
gains, and think it no sin to ask as high a price as 
they can get, though it be three times as much as the 
thing is worth. In this respect, however, the chances 
are equal; and if we are cheated, it is with open eyes. 
Poor fellows! they work very hard, and if well treated, 
are yery civil. They deserve every “ paral” they get, 
for it is dearly earned; and I never could find it in my 
* Our Saviour, 





~ CONDITION OF DONKEY BOYS. 3T7 


heart to deny them a request when it was not very, 
very exorbitant, especially the donkey boys; for to 
the traveller there is not a more useful set of people 
in the country, especially in Cairo and Alexandria. 
Whatever we do, wherever we go, they are in request : 
we could not get on at all without them, They are 
sure to find out the residence of a Frank, and as sure 
to be at hand when needed. They watch his motions, 
and like the secret police of Austria, can generally tell 
where he is to be found, which are his favourite 
haunts, and at what hour he reached his home the pre- 
vious night. They are to be seen lurking about the 
corners of the streets in parties, with their ragged, 
jaded, scraggy looking animals, waiting for a job. 
‘They are themselves as ragged, wretched, and ema- 
ciated ; and it is truly wonderful how they are able to 
support the fatigue which they are destined to 
through. They live but sparingly, and are at #) 
call of every one, whether Infidel, Turk, or Jew. 
‘They are constantly on the alert, watch the looks of 
every passer-by, and at the smallest indication of 
assent, drag their meagre-looking beasts to the spot, 
vociferating all the way, abusing each other, scrambling 
to arrive first, and sounding the praise of these most 
unfortunate of all the brute creation,—animals which, to 
judge by appearances, would hardly have strength to 
themselves into the adjoining street, and 
therefore little calculated to bear the burden of a full- 
grown Turk, to say nothing of a saddle and trappings 
weighing 25lbs.! It is easy to perceive that neither 
man nor beast has more rest or more to eat than he 
knows what to do with, Some bread, a few dates, a 
piece of gourd or melon, some * youart” (curd), and 
a little rice occasionally, constitute the food of the one; 





378 DISEASES OF THE HEART AND LUNGS. 


and a bundle of chopped straw, and a few beans, the 
support of the other. Both sleep in the open air, or 
in a miserable shed surrounded by filth and rubbish. 
Thave already described the manner of their proceed- 
ing, the hurried, uncertain course of their existence, 
and the singular vivacity with which they toriggle their 
way along the crowded streets, threading the busy 
tnultitude, apparently without fatigue to cither party. 
‘These boys must run several miles in the course of a 
few hours, and their very looks betray the nature of 
their ayocation. The countenance is always haggard, 
pale, and anxious, their breathing hurried, their whole 
visage and demeanour sharp and restless. As we 
might expect, they shorten their days, and yery many 
of them die of diseased heart. They are not pre-dis- 
posed to consumption; for this is a disease that is 
seldom to be met with in Egypt; nor is asthma so 
frequent in its occurrence aswe might imagine d prioré 
that it would be: still it occurs, and, [ have no doubt, 
is brought on in these youths by violent exercise, and 
frequent exposure to the heavy dews of the night. 
But * use is second nature ;” and if they lived better, 
they would probably not only be unable to perform 
their work, but they would be rendered more suscepti- 
ble of disease. They are generally satisfied with three 
or four piastres a-day, and think themselves well paid. 
Many do not give them half that sum, and others take 
their donkeys by force, expecially the soldiers and 
* jacks in office,” and give them nothing, except, per- 
haps, a severe beating. No wonder, then, that they 
prefer the service of a Frank, and particularly of an 
Englishman, who still preserves his character for libe- 
rality, even in Egypt. 

We have only to keep in mind the narrowness and 





“HE NOBLENESSE OP THE ASSE.” 379 


crowded condition of the streets, fo understand that no 
other animal is so well calculated for a vehicle of 
transportation as the ass, He takes up less room than 
the camel or the horse; he is therefore more easily 
managed, and he is more submissive. He is pretty 
quick in his movements, receiving many knocks ;— 
“For ragged troops of boys and girls 
Do pellow him sith stones s 


‘With clube, and whips, and many nipe, 
‘They part his ekin from 's bones.”* 


The ass of L'Hassa in Arabia is perhaps the most 
celebrated breed. He is of large growth, and very 
powerful : he is patient of fatigue, docile and sagacions, 
and, considering the nature of his race, very flect. I 
saw some very fine specimens, and longed to be able 
to transport some to England. 


* These lines refer to a practice which was at one time by no means un- 
‘common, even fn this country. Impressed with the idea that nature bad for- 
nished tho ass with a much thicker covering than other animals, which rendered 
Bie ils wo asses aod eet ba aca Bee oe 
vances, and hesitated not, it ia said, to indulge their malicious nition by 
“Tiftiog up « part of his upper garmont,” Tn recoriling thie fhet, the writer 
observes, ‘1 have often longed to ace one of these refiners in discipline himwelf 

's tall, with just such a convenient spot laid bare to the tender mercies 

.'" When we speak of the eruelties of the East, it is only just to 

‘recor our own, I have myself witnessed this very practice on more than one 

oocasion in Ireland ; and the atrocities that are committed by the ear-men 

botween Dublin and the “ Rock,” are notorious to all who Ihave visited tho 
ounteys yet no ono interferes to prevent thom, 

+ Ins curious but learned document, entitled, “The Noblenesse of the 
Asse," published in 1595, bearing morely the Author's initials, * A. B,," this 
invaluable servant of man is quuintly deseribed, aptly iustratiag the condition 
of this patient Little animal in Egypt. 

“The aase,"” he observes, * refuscth no burden : he goes whither be is sent, 
without contradiction. He lifts not his foot against any one; he bytes not; he 
aaa, ‘nor malicious affected. He doth all things in good sort, and to 

‘hia king that hath cause to employ him. If strokes be given him, he cares not 
for them, and ax our modern poot singoth, 
“ Phow wouldst (perbaps) he should become thy foe, 
‘And to that cod dost beat him many times: 
He cares not for himyelfe—much less thy blow t"? 


Tho name of this modern pot is unknown, 





880 HELIOPOLIS AND THE KINGDOM oF “ oN.” 


We availed ourselves, on the following morning, of 
the services of some of these useful little animals; and 
accompanied by Osman Effendi, we set out at an early 
hour for Matarieh, the site of Heliopolis, the City of 
the Sun, or, as it is termed in the Scriptures, “ On.”"* 
‘The idols of Mnevis have long since perished with 
their deluded votaries ;+ but the spot on which they 
stood is contemplated in the present day with no ordi- 
nary feelings, being associated with events which our 
infant lips have been taught to lisp, and of which we 
have since been accustomed to read with i 
satisfaction, Who has not heard of Joseph and his 
brethren, Potiphar, and the Pharaohs? Who has not 
read of the Shepherd Kings, their encampments, and 
the Land of Goshen ?{ 

This ancient city was situated in the midst of a rich 
and fertile country. It must have covered a great 
deal of ground; and if we suppose the buildings to 
have extended towards Cairo, it would not be yery far 
from the Nile,—if even a branch of the river did not 
flow through it, which I think very likely to have been 
the case. We cannot judge of its situation by what 
we now see. It has shared the common fate of the 
other idolatrous cities of Egypt. Not a vestige re~ 
mains of its former magnificence, if we except one 
solitary monument which has been left, as it were, to 
note the departure of Egypt's glory, and to comme- 
morate this ancient seat of learning, the favorite dwell- 
ing-place of the philosophers who taught our fathers 
wisdom, and to whose labours we are indebted for 


* Gonorls, xli, 45. 

+ The Inhabitants worshipped a bull called + Muewis,'* with the same ceromo~ 
nies as the “ Apia” of Memphis, 

+ Genesis, alvii. 





THE LAND OF GOSHEN.—aNTiguiTizs. 381 


many excellent works which relate to the history of the 
early ages. 

Tt was here that Plato and Pythagoras, Herodotus, 
Aristotle, and many others, came to study; and here 
the gorgeous palace of the king once stood, when 
Jacob was commanded to be brought into the royal 
presence, and when he was told to select a portion of 
land for his inheritance.* 

‘There appears to be no doubt, from the evidence 
which has been adduced from various writings, both 
sacred and profane, that the district of Heliopolis, or 
the kingdom of “ On,” was bordering on the famous 
Land of Goshen,—in those days, “ the best of all the 
land of Egypt,’’ “even the land of Rameses.” 

At this remote period, * On" was the seat of 
government, and it was not until the building of Mem- 
phis that it began to decay. It then rapidly dwindled 
down to nothing ; and now, as if to mock the vanity of 
kings and heroes, and to remind us of the instability 
of all human greatness, one well-proportioned, beauti- 
ful Obelis’que is the only object which has withstood 
the devastating hand of man. 

It is about sixty-five feet in height, and is covered 
with hieroglyphies : its breadth at the base, is six feet ; 
it is formed of one single piece of red granite :—its 
facades do not differ, and it is considered one of the 
oldest monuments in Egypt. Its hieroglyphies are 
not so well cut as some others. Diodorus Siculus 
mentions that Sesostris set up two Obelis’ques there, 
which were 120 cubits (180 feet) high, and 8 broad, 
i.e. twelve feet ; and Pliny assures us that Sochis, and 
Rameses who was the contemporary of Priam, each 
erected four:—that those of Sochis were 48 cubits, 

* Genesis, slvii, 





382 Excunsion.—“ WHITED SEPULCHRES.” 


(72 fect,) and that the others were about 40 cubits — 
high, i.e. 60 feet. The Obelis'que which now remains, 
is thought to be one of those put up by Sochis; and sup- 
posing Sochis to be identical with Asychis, mentioned 
by Herodotus, and the Osochon of the twenty-first 
dynasty (Tanite) of Manetho, it must have been erected, 
we are told, about “1020 years before the Christian 
era.” If, however, we refer it to the time of Sesostris, 
it would carry us 450 yeors further back. There was 
once an avenue of sphynges leading possibly to the 
temple of the sun; some of their fragmenta were still 
to be seen in the time of Pococke, and they had been 
previously described by Strabo, who visited Heliopolis 
thirty years before Christ. It is probable that if 
excavations were made here, much information might 
be obtained; and according to the observations of 
Pococke, the soil has not accumulated to more than 
seyen-and-a-half or eight feet. Dr. Richardson speaks 
of a colossal figure similar to that of Memnon at 
‘Thebes, which is of red, quartzy sand-stone. We 
saw some ruinous masses lying about in different 
directions, and a quantity of sun-dried bricks, evidently 
more modern than the rest; but we observed nothing 
like a temple, or tombs. Matarich is the only modern 
village, it is close to the Obelis'que, and borders on the 
desert ; it is about four miles and a half N.E. of 
Cairo. The ride thither is one of considerable interest. 

Shortly after passing the gates of Cairo, we traversed 
one of the great cemeteries. The tombs are precisely 
such as are described in the Scriptures: and being 
nearly all built of white stone, they retain their fresh- 
ness, and cleanly appearance. Our Saviour it will be 
recollected, in more than one place, speaks of a 
“whited sepulchre.” ‘This burial ground is destitute 





THE SHUPHERD KINGS—IRRIGATION. 383 


of trees; but the graves, which ate chiefly those of 
ordinary individuals, were kept in good order, and 
some of them looked very picturesque. Leaving the 
Mokattam to the right, we directed our course along 
a barren, sandy plain, whose melancholy aspect was 
quite in character with the solemn depositories of the 
dead. In traversing this arid spot, we saw a great 
many cranes and vultures, and also swallows. After a 
time, the view became much more agreeable to the 
eye, and the distance began to shorten; for we passed 
through groves of sycamore and tamarisk, (i. e., the 
manna tree of the Desert,) and elegant acacias. 
We saw also the citron, the lime-tree, the rhamnus, the 
lotus, the orange, the date, and numerous other trees 
and shrubs, which, indigenous to the soil, brought forth 
abundantly, and altogether presented a scene of such 
luxurianee, and—to us at that time—of novelty, that 
we felt, as it were, transported to a new world. The 
atmosphere was impregnated with the most fragrant 
and refreshing odours; and we fancied ourselves in 
the midst of a little paradise, isolated from the bustle 
of life, yet surrounded by a parched and gloomy 
wilderness ;—for if we looked beyond the immediate 
spot, the illusion was destroyed: the eye grew weary, 
and longed for something green to rest upon, but 
found none. When, however, we beheld the grass 
and beautiful little wild flowers at our feet, forming a 
richly variegated carpet, and saw the water gently 
trickling onwards, bringing new life to the vegetation, 
we were filled with delight; and, reflecting that the 
place where we then were, had been traversed by the 
Patriarchs,—that we stood perhaps on the very spot 
where the Hebrew shepherds once pitched their tents 
under the auspices of Joseph, a kind and merciful 





384 THE COTTON PLANT.—“ AIN SHEMSS.” 


governor; and that we were approaching also the 
very tree to which, it is said, the Virgin Mother brought 
the infant Saviour, to elude the subtle vigilance of 
Herod; I was conscious of feelings which it is not 
easy to deseribe,—such, that it falls to the lot of those 
only to experience, who come under the influence of 
the same powerful associations. 

Here I saw the cotton plant growing for the first 
time. It is a truly beauti ul shrub, with a red stem 
and branches, delicately contrasted with the soft green 
colour of its leaves, and the yellow tint of its flower, 
which is bell-shaped, and has a small red spot on its 
inside. It is 1 ‘requires a great deal of 

I am not aware 


‘There appears, however, 
iet, and the land is well 
icial channi 
oxen, and in the old ned way, as ‘scenitn all parts 
of the East,—by means of a bucket suspended by a rope 


or a quantity of oe attached to it, by which con- 
trivance, the bucket may be lowered and raised at 
pleasure, by one individual and without much labour, 
A little before we reached Matarieh, we passed the 
celebrated well, called “ Ain Shemss,”—the fountain of 
the sun,—and connected with which, there is a 
superstitious legend of the Roman Catholics, who 

* The cotton plant. See Deis sraret aise Plants, vol. ile ps Bla notes. 





Se i 





“THE TREE OF THE MADONNA.” 385 


assert that “jt appeared suddenly when the Holy 
Family visited Egypt ;” and it is situated close to the 
sequestered spot where, as I have stated, Joseph and 
Mary thought it prudent to conceal the infant Jesus. 
In order to visit this well, we turned a little out of the 
beaten track, and entered a tolerably thick plantation 
‘on the right, where, in the midst of date-trees, citrons, 
&c., we reclined beneath a venerable sycamore, sup- 
posed to be the identical tree whose wide spreading 
branches afforded shelter to the holy fugitives from 
the parching rays of the sun, It is cut in all directions, 
and has been denominated the “Tree of the Madonna.”” 
Its shape is singular; it is very large, and the upper 
portion of it has been blown down or struck by light- 
ning; a number of young branches grow out from 
the top of that which remains. It is, beyond all doubt, 
very aged, and there is nothing inconsistent in the idea 
that the Virgin did seck an asylum beneath its branches. 
She was as likely to choose this tree as any other, and we 
know very well that the sycamore sometimes lives to a 
most astonishing age ;—it is even said “several hundred 
years,""—though I confess I know not who is able to 
make such an assertion! Close by it, is the *mira- 
culous well”—the previous existence of which afforded 
perhaps the most important reasons why this spot 
should be selected in preference to others. Between 
this place, and the town of Matarieh, there are numer- 
ous corn-fields, which look rich and inviting; they 
extend nearly to Heliopolis, or rather I should say, the 
accumulations of rubbish, which with the Obelis'que, 
point out its original situation. ‘The distance is not 
great: it is probable that the city extended in that 
direction, and that the inhabitants were accustomed to 
repair thither to draw water: it is even thought to 
VOL. I. ce 





386 THER NILOMETER OF MATARIEE. 


have derived its name from this source; and some 
have imagined it to be identical with the “Beth- 
Shemish” of the Old Testament. But the latter was 
in Canaan, thirty miles west of Jerusalem.* At one 
season of the year, the whole of this district is 
flooded by the Nile, and the Obelis’que may be seen 
rising as it were, from the midst of an immense lake 5 
indeed it forms a very good Nilometer; a few feet 
above the ground there is a distinct line formed bythe 
accumulation of the waters; it becomes, therefore, a 
correct indicator of the extent to which the country 
has been inundated, the preceding year, and the 
relative amount of prosperity: for the overflowing of 
the Nile is the greatest blessing which can possibly 
happen to the Egyptians, notwithstanding it does oc= 
easionally carry away a few villages. We have no 
reason to believe, however, that the inundations 
extended so high in that direction, in the days of the 
glory of “On.” It is most probable that the waters 
were collected into a canal, for the convenience of the 
city, similar to that of “ Es-Bekieh” at Cairo. 

We returned home highly delighted with our ex- 
eursion, It was one of the most interesting we had 
made; and so much was the mind engaged, that we 
scarcely felt the fatigue of the journey. We began to 
get accustomed to the heat, and to the mode of 
travelling. 

‘The temperature of Cairo is generally about ten 
degrees of Fahrenheit higher than that of Alexandria, 
which may be accounted for by the sea-breezes, which 
seldom fail to visit the latter, every morning and 
evening, during ten months of the year. 

In the neighbourhood of Heliopolis, the Viceroy has 

1 Sem. vi % 21. 





BORING FOR WATER IN THE WILDERNESS. 387 


erected barracks, and a military college, There is 
also a hospital, and what has been called a school of 
Medicine. I shall have occasion to speak of these 
by and bye. The Franks who are here employed, 
have watered detached portions of land bordering on 
the desert, and have been well rewarded for their 
trouble ; for it is a rich loamy soil, and only required 
irrigation. Many little gardens have thus sprung up, 
where all was previously a parched, and arid wilderness, 
Great efforts were made to obtain a regular supply of 
water by boring. I am bappy to say that the labour 
was not thrown away. Experiments have been since 
tried in the Desert, between Cairo and Suez, and in 
other parts, and in many instances, with abundant 
success, 





CHAPTER XIV. 


THE BAZAARS—ORIENTAL TRADING—USURY AND 
OATHS—VISIT TO MOHAMMED ALI—HALL OF AUDI- 
ENCE—ADMINISTRATION OF AFFAIRS—THE COUNCIL 
CHAMGER—PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF THE PASCHA 
—ilI8 ORIGIN AND HISTORY; HABITS AND ATTACH- 
MENTS—IMPARTIAL CONSIDERATION OF HIS LIPRE— 
SCHEMES ADOPTED FOR WIS DESTRUCTION — 
ANECDOTES IN ILLUSTRATION—MASSACKE OF THE 
MAMLUKS AND JANIZARIES—BENEFITS ARISING 
THEREFROM — THE VICEROY'S RELATIONS WITH 
TURKEY—HIS TALENTS AS A DIPLOMATIRT; AND 
ASSERTION OF HIS INDEPENDENCE—REMONSTRANCE. 
OF THE EUROPEAN POWERS—TREACHERY OF THE 
OTTOMAN ADMIRAL, ETC. 


Tue bazaars of Cairo do not differ from those of every 
other large town in the East; they are spacious, well 
watered, and covered with canvass, in order to keep 
off the dust and the sun’s rays, or the heat would be 
intolerable :* besides, the merchants often expose at 
their stalls, goods of considerable value, and the spot is 
usually one of great bustle; the whole place is in 
motion; people of all ranks and professions are passing 
and repassing all day long, and many beggars obstruct 
the way. ‘The most noisy of the groups that pass in 


* The principal basnars are the ' Gho'riiby” and the “ Khan-Kbfelotl.!” 
‘Seo Mr, Elay"s illustrations of Cairo, 





STREET-PASSENGERS AND SHOP-KEEPERS, 389 


review before us, are the pedlars or hawkers, a set of 
people who get their living by buying and selling any 
thing they can pick up; they go the round of the bazaars 
in the morning, when the commotion is at its maximum 
they walk at a prodigious rate, proclaiming at the very top 
of their voice, the qualities of their wares, some of which, 
they exhibit in their belt or on the shoulders ; and they 
may generally be distinguished at somedistance, holding 
up above the heads of the multitudea sword, a gun, or a 
brace of pistols. There is a distinct bazaar for each 
trade. I used sometimes to take my seat among the 
merchants as a looker-on, in one of these great 
thoroughfares of Cairo, and never lacked amusement. 
J do not know a more curious spectacle than that which 
this moving panorama presents; there is a constant 
succession of changes, incident, and character, according 
as the pedlar, the fakir, the Bedoueen, the tax-gatherer, 
the Jew, the Greek, the English gentleman, and the 
Frank employé, in turn appears—rapidly followed by the 
kavaass, the vender of sweetmeats or sherbet, the slave, 
the conjurer or diviner, the serpent charmer, the 
buffoon, and the Jack in office,—ewm multis alits. In 
the midst, sits the grave and thoughtful Turk, sur- 
rounded by his goods, and apparently indifferent to 
the passing scene,—taciturn, and, except when a 
customer approaches, counting his gains, and digesting 
his plans over a pipe; or conning the pages of his 
pocket Khoran:—he makes no attempt to solicit 
business; but should a purchaser draw near, he lays 
the one or the other aside, to listen to his request; 
he is polite and obliging, firm, but just in all his 
dealings: and for the most part, honest, He generally 
invites his patron to be seated while he finds the 
article he wants; and not unfrequently, sends for 
coffee, and offers him his pipe, with many salutations, 





390 ORIENTAL TRADING.—USURY.—OaTH. 


He is not afraid to leave his stall, although there is no 
other inspector or overlooker than his customer, (of 
whom perhaps he knows nothing,) and his brother 
merchants, who sit about on their boards like himself, 
attending to their own affairs, in their respective shops, 
which line the avenue on either side. When the 
Muezzin call the hour of prayer from the minarets, he 
either kneels down in a corner with his face towards 
the “Kebleh,”* or retires to the mos'que; leaving 
his goods exposed to the merey of hundreds of passing 
strangers: but he is sure to find everything on his 
return, precisely as he left it! Should a customer want 
him in the mean time, his neighbour, notwithstanding 
he is perhaps a ri 


the other, and h 
a pipe to beguile the time. Whatever may be thought 


of this by our London tradesmen, 1 bog to assure them 
that in the East, t 
it is regarded as of honour: and every respec- 
lk by thus acting, heis doing no 
», than he would expect his 
sari to do fo 
d indee by every Christians but I 


not of usury or oaths; a 
in once struck, remains 
i it that he suffers himself to take 
less Anat he asks, or that he asks more than he consi- 
ders himself entitled to take. The Arabs are very 
similar in their character as merchants; but although 
equally honest and true to their word, they have not 
the same firmness; and will ofen be induced, by a 
* Or" Kha'eba''—2ho sbrine of the Prophet. 





VISIT TO MOHAMMED ALI. 391 


good story or a little coaxing, to alter their determina- 
tion. It is perfectly delightful to see the order, and 
good feeling which distinguish the various classes of 
people that associate together in the bazaars. There 
appears to be no jealousy; and though each does the 
best, no doubt, he can for himself, the greatest har- 
mony prevails : it is seldom that we are able to de- 
tect anything like animosity or injustice, 

We dined this day with the English Consul, and 
went with him in the evening by appointment to the 
Citadel, where we were presented in due form to 
Mohammed Ali, the great “leviathan” of the Nile— 
the “two-edged sword” of Egypt! It was dark when 
we set out, and the humble lanterns of the Caireens 
were beginning to move, as the Arab guard proceeded 
to the different stations. Our appearance created a 
great bustle; for when a person of consequence goes 
forth at night, his approach is signified by the blaze of 
a large mass of ignited combustibles (charcoal and 
bitumen), placed in an iron basket at the end of a rod, 
and carried in front of the cavalcade. Such was the 
case on the present occasion: we were attended by 
numerous servants and a couple of janizaries, the 
former running ob foot before and around, some carry~ 
ing lanterns, the rest clearing the way with their sticks, 
When we arrived at the palace, we entered the great 
square, the terraces of which are adored with light 
columns and porticoes of stone. Near the chief en- 
trance, were assembled crowds of beggars, donkey- 
boys, and servants holding their masters’ horses, which 
pawed the ground, snorted, and shook their gorgeous 
trappings, as if in token of their conscious superiority. 
Here we dismounted; and ascending a flight of several 
steps, were straightway ushered into a spacious hall, 





392 THE HALL OF AUDIENCE. 


lofty, and paved with stone. Carpets and cushions 
were arranged at different parts; and on them were 
reclining the various officers of state with their 
seribes, interpreters, and other attendants, — hearing 
complaints, receiving reports, issuing warrants and 
“teskerehs” to the local authorities, and transacting 
government business. Every thing bore an aspect of 
importance ; each individual looked grave; and com- 
paratively few words were exchanged. Some conversed 
in private; some were signing and sealing papers, 
others had their ink-case before them, and were writ- 
ing :—all at intervals raised the favourite t'chibouque 
to their lips, and sipped their coffee or sherbet ; a thin 
atmosphere of tobacco s it 

ment; large and 

wax-lights were place upon the floor, and nu- 
merous parties arrange es in groups, waiting 
until they could obtain a hearing; a gentle murmur 
might be heard, but there was no noise, and 
thing seemed to be conducted with the greatest order 
‘and decorum. ertheless, Janizaries and messen- 
gers were at hand in case their services should be re- 
quired.* I cannot say that I formed a very grand 
idea of the apieneon of justice in this august 


ry; nor did it appear 
patch of business. 

Having waited a ie, one of the Pascha’s 
droguemans came to to the Consul that His 
Highness was ready to receive us. Traversing a large 
anti-room, in which were stationed seyeral armed offi- 

© ‘The term Jonizary Is still applied to these individaale; bat they must not 
‘he associated with the Janizaries of Turkey, who once played #0 important « 


part in the affairs of state. In Egypt and at Constantinople the 
officers or domestic guards of the cbief authorities, are s0 called. 





THE PRESENCE-CHAMBER. 393 


cials, we were immediately admitted to the royal 
presence. The chamber was large and square, variously 
ornamented, and painted in rather a rough style. It 
was furnished in the usual manner; and in the contre, 
on the floor, was a very large candelabrum of gold or 
silver gilt. At the furthest corner, seated on the 
divan, we beheld a venerable old man with a white 
turban, and a long white beard; he was attended 
by a few of his state officers, a couple of negroes, an 
Armenian drogueman, and a few others. His whole 
form was enveloped in a loose blue robe, lined with 
sables, and he held in his hand a very long pipe, with 
a magnificent amber mouth-piece, studded with dia- 
monds. We could not be mistaken in the person. 
We advanced respectfully, and made the salutation of 
the country. Having been formally presented, and 
acknowledged, we were desired to be seated ; but hesi- 
tating to do so from etiquette, the Pascha himself 
made a sign to us to take a place on the divan near 
him, which of course we did. 

Mohammed Ali entered freely into conversation 
with us, asking through his interpreter, many unimpor- 
tant questions, — aware no doubt that he was himself 
the chief object of our curiosity, and that bis urbanity 
to Europeans would be duly appreciated. Pipes and 
coffee were handed to us, and we were graciously per= 
mitted to put any questions we chose. He asked 
“how long we had been in Egypt, — what our inten- 
tions were, and whether there was any thing he could 
do to serve us?” May your condescension never be 
less,” thought I, and for once to be sure, “our heads 
touched the skies!” I replied, that “we came there 
for information concerning the antiquities, but that 
Egypt had always been interesting to the Franks; and 





394 TNE VICEROY’S URBANITY TO STRANGERS. 


that since His Highness obtained the command, so 
many improvements had taken place, that it was now 
regarded as one of the most important countries in the 
world; and that we were anxious to sce his public in- 
stitutions, of which in Europe, we had heard so much !"" 
All this 1 could say with great sincerity. 1 then 
begged to represent to His Highness how greatly flat- 
tered we were by his generosity, and requested he 
would grant us the necessary “ Firmaun” to travel in 
his dominions, with an especial order to excavate at 
Thebes or elsewhere, if we thought fit,”—which was 
immediately promised. 
‘The enquiries made by the Pascha in his interviews 
with Europeans, pretty well be conceived; it is 
ir open his heart: as to 
Secu nor, is it 


possible to infer from 


put and retuned throughs 

sentiments may be. 

little acquainted wi 
physiognomy and 
Nothing that is said 
depended on; a 


a favourable a 2 

held in Euro) we praised his institutions, many of 
which are really goods we spoke in strong terms of the 
discipline which we had obser 

we admired the beauty of his ships, and alluded to the 
general improvements that were taking place in Cairo 
and Alexandria, which could not bat turn tothe well-being 
of the inhabitants, especially if the quarantine laws 
(lately introduced) were properly enforced. In touching 





HIS AGE, DEMEANOUR, AND APPEARANCE. 395 


on these various topics we assured his highness that we 
were highly gratified with our reception in his dominions, 
and that we had been honoured with an interview with 
his son Ibrahim Pascha in the dock-yard at Alexandria. 

Having thus obtained the royal assent to go wherever 
we liked, do what we liked, and see every thing that we 
wished, and having through his interpreter, prolonged 
the conversation until we began to think ourselves 
irksome, we prepared to make our “salaam.” Coffee 
was again introduced, (an intimation that we had leave 
to depart,) after which, we made the usual salutation 
and withdrew, very much delighted with our interview. 
I considered that we had just seen one of the most 
surprising individuals that the world ever produced ; 
though one whose character is very little understood by 
the inhabitants of Europe. I found him just the sort 
of person E had imagined. He is now about seventy- 
four years of age; when I saw him, he was rather 
inclined to be stout, but not corpulent; his neck is 
somewhat short, but less so than it appears to be; as 
some allowance must be made for the fulness of the 
Oriental dress, and the inclination of the body common 
to old age. His face has a rounded form, the cheek 
bones being rather high and prominent ; his nose and 
mouth are well shaped ; he has a square forehead, and 
his countenance, taking it all in all, is by no means 
unpleasant to look upon ; notwithstanding it bears the 
aspect of sternness and severity. The eye of the 
Pascha is not dark, though very expressive; it is of a 
deep grey colour, but softened a little by age :—when 
younger, he must have had an eye that was not only 
full of fire and animation, but that would have com- 
manded the respect of all who came within its range. 
As it is, few men are able to withstand the Paseha’s 





306 ANALYSIS OF THE PascHA’s FEATURES. 


steady gaze; and when he chooses, he can still, by a 
single look, penetrate to the very soul of his negotiators, 
and rob them of the secret sentiments of their heart, 
though Abe would not have divulged them for the 
world ! hus has he sueceeded in detecting plots 
that have been invented to destroy him,—brought his 
enemies trembling to his feet, and made the treacher- 
ous suc for mercy, and confess their sinister designs. 
‘This must no doubi referred in some degree, to the 
operations going on in the minds of the two parties; 
the one being seated on the throne of state, invested 
with all the dignity and authority of a monarch,—the 
other labouring under a consciousness of his own in- 
feriority, and affecte the eri 

of the act which he. at he was anxious to effect. 
‘The muscles of the Pascha’s brow, from frequent use, 
have increased toa e, and project considerably 


over the inner orbit, affording a strong indication of 
care and habitual thoughtfulness. The furrows are 
not such, however, as constitute an ill-tempered, 
petulant frown ; H would describe eet as 
the well iowa symbol of irascibility, apathy, and 
cruelty ;—but Mohammed Ali 


energetic to be charged with phi, and though 
indifferent to the well being of his subjects, he has not 
proved himself wantoniy crucl, in the strict sense of 
the word. ‘This remarkable knitting of the brow is to 
be attributed rather tohabit ; and isthe result of anxiety, 
and a constant desire to read the real character of 
those by whom he is surrounded: for it should be 
recollected, that not only has his life been frequently 
attempted, but having raised himself from obscurity to 





HIS PHYSIOGNOMY AND PORTRAIT. 397 


the high situation which he now holds, he has had a 
very difficult and dangerous game to play; one re- 
quiring considerable study and address. I believe that 
the scowl or overhanging of the brow, which at times 
so peculiarly characterizes the countenance of the 
Pascha, is precisely that which we may remark in the 
physiognomy of every hard-featured Bedoueen, and 
like the lines that are sculptured on the fore-head of 
the philosopher,—indicating intense observation, watch- 
fulness, and reflection. 

The personal appearance of Mohammed Ali bespeaks 
his character ;—it is that of a shrewd, intelligent, cal- 
culating, and discerning despot,—one who has been 
accustomed to deal with the rougher part of mankind, 
and who owes his advancement in life to the exercise 
of his wits. Knowing that his actions were watched 
by persons envious of his success, and ready to thwart 
the objects which he had in view, he learned to be 
suspicious of his neighbour, and mistrustful of the 
whole world; and holding at best a precarious exist- 
ence, seeing that he had excited the jealousy and the 
fears of his great master at the Bosphorus, he found 
it necessary to treat every man as a rogue, admit very 
few to his councils, acknowledge few friends, and 
having taken care to elicit the unguarded opinions of 
others,—rely upon the strength of his own judgment. 
There is no mistaking the physiognomy of the Pascha. 
A very correct portrait of him was painted about four 
years ago, by Mr. Say; and Mohammed Ali sat to 
Sir David Wilkie only a short time before that artist's 
death. But by far the best likeness which is to be 
seen of this extraordinary man, in England, is given 
as a frontispiece to Mr. Maddox's work on Egypt, 
published about ten years since. In commenting on 





398 MOHAMMED ALI’S CHARACTER 


the features which are there pourtrayed, I wish to do 
justice. I am certainly no admirer of the Pascha’s 
character, yet I will “nothing extenuate, nor set down 
aught in malice.” ‘The people of Europe were for 
some time deceived, in consequence of travellers 
holding back their sentiments, I know it is an un- 
gracious thing to speak ill of another; but, if a man 
writes at all, it is his duty to say what he thinks, and 
what he knows to be true. Mohammed Ali has 
doubtless been blamed for many things which might be 
traced to the numerous unprineipled persons that have, 
at various times, been hovering about him, with a view 
to their own interest 5 and i it is pretty well known that 


on by the authorities i in 
Persia, and other dk 


he is not ignorant of this, is certain ;* but perhaps he 
consoles himself with the idea that the same prevailed 
that other monarchs of his own 

do not openly sanction it;— 

h his education; it was by 

such means that he succeeded in raising himself from 
the lowest station to the post he now holds: and it 
is only by following out the most extensive and rigid 
monopoly that he has been able to defy the power of 
the Sultan. He cannot therefore throw the first stone; 


© To is also wware that his finances do not reeeive the most disinterested 
management ; and be Las been heard to exclaim since his defeat In Syria, “ If T 
could only find six honest men to help me, 1 should be « rich and 
Puscha.”” The thousand and one “friends, countrymen and Jovers” upon whom 
‘he lavished woalth and titles, deserted him in his adversity ; and he truly said— 
“T otand alone, without any one bat Bogbos Bey to second me."* 





IMPARTIALLY CONSIDERED. 399 


would hardly suit him to abandon his old practices at 
the present important crisis. 

The enormities which he has himself committed, are 
referable I think, not to any savage brutality inherent 
in his nature, but to the want of moral influence; a 
restless ambition leading him to attempt that which was 
beyond his reach,—and the mistaken notions of ex- 
pediency to which that ambition gave rise. No man 
ever became depraved all at once; and he who is 
radically bad, has invariably the ruffian marked upon 
his brow. That Mohammed Ali is deaf to the cries 
of a suffering people, when he has in view the accom- 
plishment of any great design, is perfectly true; but 
this is the result of education and example: and we 
must not judge him by the standard of European 
greatness! It is the nature of man to tyrannize when 
be can: and if we look back to the early history of our 
own country, when the existence of a feudal system 
deprived the honest husbandman of his rights, and 
kept the whole land in a state of commotion, we shall 
find many illustrations of the position which the Pascha 
now holds in Egypt. Iam compelled to speak of his 
faults, because he has been on various occasions, cried 
up by interested parties, for his generosity, and for his 
reputed exertions in the cause of science and civilization: 
whereas it will be seen as I proceed, that his sole 
incentive to action, is an insatiable thirst for power. 
No one can give a faithful account of the country 
without exposing the Pascha’s real and ostensible 
motives; the acme of his ambition is to establish 
himself and his heirs firmly on the throne, and he will 
most likely succeed: but | have no hesitation in saying, 
that if he had had Turks to rule instead of Arabs, he 
would have been assassinated long ago; nevertheless, 





400 THE ACTUAL STATE OF THE COUNTRY. 


stern and inexorable though he be, we must not class 
him with certain members of the Spanish Inquisition, 
who, we are told, revelled in the blood of their fellow 
creatures ; and wantonly exercised the torture for their 
morning's entertainment. Such men are the excres- 
cences which now and then encumber the earth; but 
only now and then :—at least, it is seldom that such 
monsters are invested with power sufficient to gratify 
their propensities. [ am anxious to frame every 
excuse I ean for the Pascha; and whenever I speak 
against him, Ido so because I view with concern the 
sufferings of a fine people, capable of every thing that 
is great and noble, and requiring only a just and 
fostering govern to establish them among nations. 
But I hear it ‘ope ;—“* Egypt is no longer 
a barbarous country ; lized ; it has institutions 
equal to our own 5 in a flourishing state ;—the 
Pascha does this—the Pascha does that.”—It is not 
true. It is impossible that any country ean be reduced 
to a greater stat wretchedness than Egypt is in at 
the present moment. It is ridiculous to talk about 
the prosperity of a country, and the good intentions 
of its ruler, wl th 
way, and can neither obt n protection nor the common 
necessaries of life. The schemes of the Viceroy, in as 
much as they have been the means of bringing the 
natives in contact with Europeans, (although not 
always with the finest spec 
good, and the foundation has 
like civilization. The people's eyes are beginning to 
open, and there is a disposition on the part of all 
classes to adopt European customs, Fortunately for 
Mohammed Ali, his vassals are tractable and patient; 
or they would not so long have submitted to his yoke. 
4 





REFLECTIONS THEREUPON. 401 


‘The only fair way to determine the question as to the 
state of Egypt, is to consider whether we can render a 
satisfactory answer to the following questions: are 
the people well supplied with necessaries? Are they 
happy and in good health? Is there a free and im- 
partial administration of justice? Or is there one law 
for the rich and another for the poor? Does the 
labourer receive the value of his hire? Is there any 
protection for property? Or can the extortioner and 
the man in power rob the citizen of his liberties, and 
trample on the rights of the peasant, with impunity ? 
These and many other similar questions have been 
glanced at in the course of these volumes, and the 
reader may judge for himself. It is from ocular 
demonstration I speak, and not from the report of 
others. To facts, therefore, I would call his attention. 
I must deseribe the country as i is. What do 
Mohammed Ali’s ambitious schemes avail the wretched 
Fellah, if he is without food? — It is all very well for 
the Pascha to attempt to place himself on a par with 
other nations, and if he did so in a proper way, without 
sacrificing the welfare of the inhabitants, the people 
would not complain; they are wanting neither in skill 
nor enterprize ; they would gladly aid him in the cause, 
and thank him for watching over their interests ;—but 
when it is considered, that their rights are disregarded, 
that the best feelings of their nature are insulted, that 
they are degraded as men, that they are separated from 
every thing that is dear to them upon earth, their wives 
and children, home, country and friends, and that 
nothing is left them but misery and desolation—overy 
year bringing fresh sorrows, until they are reduced, if 
they survive, to absolute beggary—no one, I think, will 
venture to assert that the system adopted by the Pascha 
YOU. 1. pop 





402  ENQUINY CONCERNING THE PASCILA’S 


is a just or wholesome one ;—no one will declare that 
these are the days of Egypt’sglory! If the Pascha had 
chosen to husband his means, instead of foolishly 
squandering away his substance, regardless of conse- 
quences, he might have improved the condition of his 
subjects inevery way. There is a great deal of soil still 
neglected, that he might have cultivated and turned to 
account ;—he might have looked to the irrigation of 
the land, erected steam-engines and light-houses, 
factories, schools and hospitals; invited Europeans to 
settle down in the country ; cleansed and improved the 
larger towns, and done many things that he has already 
done, and many more that he has not done, and the 
people would have had re; 

possessed so wise a king; 

trious and well-di 


happy under the aus ‘ood government ;—the 
waste and parched ground would soon have looked 
green, and the prosperity of the land would have 
increased, as sickness and poverty diminished :—in a 
word, the resources of the country would rapidly have 
multiplied, and the coffers of the public treasury might 
even have become full, At all events, the Pascha 
would have had the satisfaction of knowing that he 
reigued in the hearts of his people; that through the 
wisdom of his counsels he had raised them to honour, 
and that they had become one family, under one 
patriarch, enlightened, free, noble, prosperous, and 
great. He would have been respected among nations; 
and he would have descended into the grave at last, 
amid the tears of his children, sincerely and universally 
regretted, But as it is, he has aimed at conquest 
before he was fairly invested with power in the country 





PROCEEDINGS—THE LATE CRISIS. 403 


to which he has been called; and the austerity of his 
measures has sufficiently proved that he cares for 
_ nothing but the gratification of his own vanity. Before 
he thought of extending his dominions, how much 
better would it have been for him to have ingratiated 
himself with his people, by an impartial distribution of 
justice, by redressing public grievances, rewarding the 
industrious, and punishing the oppressor; but seeing 
that his days upon earth were drawing to a close, he 
chose to adopt more summary measures: his ambition 
got the better of his judgment, and induced him to 
attempt at once, that which required years to accom- 
plish. He has thereby reduced his finances to 
nothing; he has stripped a fertile land of the flower of 
its youth, and robbed his manufactories to increase his 
army and nayy,—positively without knowing how they 
are to be paid or supported: for he has diminished 
the number of agriculturists to such a degree, that at 
times, he has hardly had hands sufficient to do the 
ordinary work. This was especially the ease during 
the late Syrian campaigns. It is quite clear that such 
a system must have an end; it cannot last. ‘The late 
crisis has been a desperate one; Turkey is crippled; 
she has still troubles enough to endure; and if left to 
herself, would hardly be able to,follow up a war with 
her rebellious vassal ;—but she has powerful allies, and 
will, if she is wise, be guided by them. Had the 
Pascha attempted to levy fresh supplies in the vain 
hope of defending himself, his guards would most 
likely have revolted, and the very power which he 
raised would have crushed him. He must know that 
he is hated; for numbers have deserted, and one day 
forty of his own guns were found spiked on the 
platforms at Alexandria. Latterly, he created new 
po2 





404 MOHAMMED ALI's ORIGIN AND HISTORY. 


enemies in Syria; the Arabs of the Desert, finding 
their communication with the larger towns cut o! 

became incensed, and he lost ground with them,— | 
being obliged to submit to the dictation of the English: 
added to which, he was left in the lurch by Franee ; 
and it is perfectly well known, that despotic characters 
are only tolerated as long as “their star is on the 
rise!” This has been well illustrated by the conduct 
of the mountain tribes in Syria. As soon as the 
Pascha and his son ceased to prosper, thousands 
turned their arms against them; and so it would be 
in Egypt, the moment an attempt were made by 


Ye one Wwe Europeans to land. 


"S wy 
y er 


wu 


Mohammed Ali was born in 1769, at a small village 

¥ near Salonika—I believe 
_what is termed, “a vender of smoke :”—a person of 

\ the lowest consideration in a ‘Turkish city,—a man 
who endeavours to pick up a miserable subsistence by 
hawking about tobaceo to those who are so poor (and 
in the East they must be poor indeed) that they eanmot 
afford to have a pipe of their own. It is the custom 
of these “dispensers of the soothing weed,” to parade 
the streets, calling out, “Who wants a smoke?” 
carrying with them a bundle of tubes, and a leather 
bag full of the “needful.” 

Being hailed by some miserable loiterer, they furnish 
him with a pipe of tobacco, for the small sum of one 
parah ; and unless he be an acquaintance, probably 
stand gossiping with him at his elbow, until the pipe is 
done; such are the “venders of smoke!” and such 
was the sire of Mohammed Ali! Happily for the 
son, he was not bound (as is the case in India) to 
follow the avocation of his parent. He happened to 

* For an sopount of Mohammed Ali's SoD ten es eae 





DEPOSITION OF KOURSCHID PASCHA. 405 


fall in with a French merchant who expanded his ideas 
a little by conversation, and being an aspiring, daring 
youth, was excited to raise himself to something above 
the condition he was then in; and as in despotic 
countries there is always a wide field for bold adyen- 
turers, his talents soon found something to work upon. 
He attracted the notice of his superiors, and advanced 
from one rank to another, until he joined the expedi- 
tion to Egypt, when the country was invaded by 
France. Once promoted to a high command, he de- 
termined to remove, by degrees, every obstacle to the 
completion of his views. The first step he took was 
to undermine the authority of the reigning governor, 
Kourschid Pascha. ‘To this end, he contrived to make 
himself generally popular; and by all the means in 
his power, encouraged the discontent which prevailed 
among the Roumeliote troops, taking care, of course, 
to ingratiate himself with them at the same time. 
When he saw that they were ready for revolt, and that 
the populace were also disaffected, he boldly put him- 
self at their head, marched into the city as the acknow- 
ledged avenger of their country's wrongs, and eventu- 
ally compelled the Pascha to submit to his dictation. 
Kourschid professed for him the greatest contempt ; 
but thinking it best to conciliate him if he could, 
caused him to be created “ Pascha of Mekka,” and 
soon after, invited him to repair to the citadel for the 
ceremony of inauguration; but Mohammed Ali was 
too great an adept in Oriental stratagems to be so 
easily ensnared: he recollected that “he who enters 
the hywna's den, seldom returns alive; without 
scruple, therefore, he insisted that the ceremony should 
be performed in private, and at the house of one of 
his own friends! He subsequently had the address to 





* 406 MOHAMMED ALIS ADVANCEMENT: 


increase the public animosity against this man to such 
an extent, that the inhabitants would no longer submit 
to his authority; and the Albanian soldiers, who had 
fought with Mohammed Ali, and identified themselves 
with him on all occasions, loudly vociferated in his 
favour ; the consequence was, that in 1805, only a few 
months afterwards, he was duly appointed “ Pascha of 
Egypt” by the Sublime Porte. As might be ex- 
pected, this gave rise to many jealousies among the 
adherents of the old party ; fresh enemies sprung up, 
and the Mamliiks, who looked upon Mohammed Ali 
as an intriguing, adventurous upstart, were strenuously 
opposed to him. The Pascha was aware of this; it 
alarmed him, and he kept his eye upon them, like an 
infuriated tiger ready to pounce upon the slumbering 
lion. They alone had power to thwart his inclination, 
and he began seriously to consider how they might be 
subdued. He resolved to insult one of their fayou- 
rites: an opportunity soon occurred; according to 
some, he only pretended to do so, and then bribed the 
individual to stir up the rest. Be this as it may, they 
thought themselves bound to resent the injury; and 
either voluntarily, or by persuasion, determined on at- 
tacking the Pascha, during the celebration of the 
festival held at the opening of the Nile.* But Mo- 
hammed Ali either suspected or had seeret intimation 
of their intentions, and laid his own plans. As soon 
as the Mamltiks had entered the narrow streets of the 
city, they were assailed on all sides by musket balls 
from the windows and terraces. A great many suffered 
on the spot; the rest fled in confusion under cover of 


* When the Nile ¢ at ite height, the sluicos are oponed, and the water is 
Allowed to flow into the heart of the city; on which occasion, there are always 
great rejoicings; guns are fired, and the day is spent in feasting and jollity, 
st Jeant by thone who have the means, 





HIS STRATAGEMS AND GUILE. | 407 


the night. This additional proof of the Viceroy’s 
intrepidity gained .him many new friends: for the 
people were always glad when the haughty Mamliiks 
received a check. But in despotic countries, a suc- 
cessful adventurer is never without secret foes; and 
whilst these things were doing at Cairo, the partizans 
of the deposed Kourschid Pascha were not idle. The 
name of his successor was often mentioned at the 
Bosphorus ; and at last, a “ Capidgi Bashi" was sent 
to Egypt with sealed orders relative to the speedy 
surrender of the government. The wily Pascha placed 
the royal firmaun to his forehead, in token of his 
submission, arrayed the Sultan's envoy in the robes of 
honour, and loaded him with presents ; but somehow 
or other, he never returned! Time passed on. Mo- 
hammed Ali sought every opportunity of enriching 
himself: he laid up stores and provisions ; admitted 
about his person none but those on whom he could 
implicitly rely ; repaired the dilapidatious at the cita- 
del, and strengthened the garrison, Once more the 
suspicions of the Sultan became excited, and the 
Turkish high-admiral received peremptory orders to 
bring him to Constantinople without delay, The Vice- 
roy, ever on his guard, now pleaded illness, and with 
the most profound reverence éxcused himself; at the 
same time blinding the Sultan's eyes, by forwarding to 
him a large sum of money as a mark of his zeal and 
attachment! Nothing daunted, he continued in the 
same course. ‘ The tiger is always most dangerous 
when he crouches!’ The suspicions of his master 
were lulled; and at the festival of the “Beiram,” when 
the “ Tewdjéhal” is published by the Porte, that is ta 
say, the annual statement of all promotions, dismissals, 
and appointments throughout the Ottoman empire, 





408 THE MASSACRE OF THE MAMLOKS. 


Mohammed Ali found himself confirmed in office.* 
Nevertheless, he felt that he was watched, and it 
behoved him to be vigilant too. He was still mis- 
trustful of the Mamliks; their numbers were great ; 
their skill and prowess made them formidable; their 
influence was extensive ; and he imagined that they 
were continually plotting his ruin. He foresaw that 
they would mar all bis projects, if they did not shake 
his authority, and he believed himself insecure white 
they lived. On the score of expediency, therefore, 
he determined, if possible, to annihilate them. Just 
at this juncture, the Whahabees, a religious fanatical 
sect of Arabia, made a descent upon the Holy City, 
and committed many outrages. This afforded him a 
fine opportunity to put his plan in execution. He 
called a Divan, and declared intention of sending 
an army to quell the insur he then made over- 
tures of reconciliation to the Beys, and the better to 
conceal his real motives, gave them to understand that 
in this religious war, they were to take a very promi~ 
nent part, and as an earnest of his favour, proposed 
that they should lead the At the same time, he 
proclaimed a “fantasia” or féte, in honour of the 
expedition, adding that he should himself inspect the 
troops before they set out. As a still further com- 
pliment, and in order to get his. victims effectually 
entangled in his net, he stated that he should review 
the Mamliks by themselves, and this was accordingly 
done ; they were about 1600 strong, I suppose the 
finest body of cavalry in the world. Having expressed 
himself highly delighted with their appearance, he dis- 
missed them with the warmest assurances of his good- 
will. One half of their number immediately set for- 
ward; and in the course of a few days, when he had 
* Se Vol, TT, Chap, I. 





EXTERMINATION OF THE JANIZARIES. 409 


the main body of the soldiers marshalled before him, 
preparatory to their departure, he summoned the rest 
of the Mamliks again to the citadel, in order that 
they might receive his final instructions. 

They came splendidly attired, mounted and accou- 
tred, ready to march, little suspecting treachery ; but 
once within the walls, the gates were closed, and they 
began to discover the trap that was laid for them: but 
it was too late; they had no means of defence or 
escape, and they were shot down from the battlements 
and windows in the great square, I believe, to a man! 
It is said that one individual did actually leap his charger 
from the parapet, that the rider escaped, but that the 
poor horse was killed ;—of this little is known. The 
signal was now given for the army to set out. They 
came up with the first division of the Mamldks near 
the Cataracts. These devoted heroes unsuspectingly 
came forth to meet, as they supposed, their comrades; 

- but they were immediately attacked and routed. ‘They 
retired upon Castle Ibrim; but being unprepared for a 
siege, they were soon forced to quit so uncertain a 
refuge; and after defending themselves with astonishing 
valour, the remnant that escaped fled to the interior, 
and settled near Dongola, where they were allowed to 
continue: for their power being destroyed, they were 
no longer the enemies of the Viceroy! Thus ended 
the earcer of the Mamliks; and, much as we may be 
shocked at the contemplation of the act which I have 
described, we have reason to think, that with their 
death, the fanaticism and prejudice, which formed for 
many years the bar to civilization in Egypt, began to 
give way: just as was the case in Constantinople, when 
the Sultan exterminated the Janizaries.* Thus, out 

* The manaacre of the Mamliks took place in 1811, ‘The Pascha then vet 





410 ORIGIN AND CHARACTER OF THE MAMLEKS. 


of evil will much good: for as long as these 
two bodies remained, there was no chance of 

ing either of these countries; and it is re- 

that the very steps which the Sultan and his 
Viceroy took to establish their autbority,—and, as was 
pretended, the religion of their fathers, will prove 
hereafter to have been the means of promoting Chris~ 
tianity! No man can shut his eyes to the progress 
which civilization has made since these events oc~ 
curred. The Mamliks were originally military slaves, 
imported from Georgia and Circassia; but many others, 
and Europeans as well as blacks, joined them at vari- 
ous times, — parting however with their religion and 
their freedom, in order to become the favourite depen- 


their ves ao id the use if the scimitar. They 
were very brave, capable of enduring great fatigues, 
and excellent skirmishers; but they were haughty, 
vain, and gay, fond of dress and parade, (which led to 
their final overthrow) and they were not over-scrupu- 
lous; thus they excited the jealousy and envy of the 
natives, especially as they were in favour with the 


about organizing « regular army, in which he was assisted by Colonel Selvos, 
2 French officer (Suleyman Bey) who, introducing Buropesn tactics in 1815, 


‘grout deal of trouble, and wore at laot attacked by artillery, and de- 
stroyod in their own barracks, in 1826, Fore more particular nceount of this 
‘event, see the excellent writings of the Rev. Dr. Walsh, for some time Chaplain 
to the English Embassy ot 





SUMMARY OF THE PASCHA'’S ADVENTURES. 411 


authorities, held high offices themselves, often became 
tich, and as might be expected, overbearing. 

When we reflect on all that Mohammed Ali has 
undergone, and take an impartial review of his history, 
we certainly must acknowledge him to be an extraordi- 
nary—nay, a wonderful man. He has been preserved 
in the midst of many and great perils, and he seems 
to have been indebted for every thing to himself. 
He never depended on another; but mistrusted all the 
world, 

“Phere a tide in the affairs of men, 

‘Which, taken at the flood, leads on ta fortune." 
Mohammed Ali availed himself of every incident 
which favored him, and was sure to turn it to the best 
account, Born in obscurity, he rose to greatness ; he 
broke through every barrier that was raised to impede 
his progress. The truth must be spoken. Without 
the benefits of a modern education,—without any of 
the advantages of civilization,—a bad example always 
before his eyes,—accustomed to tyranny and despotism, 
bloodshed, and rapine, he went on step by step, 
watching his opportunities, and calculating his risks, 
until at last, seizing the happy moment, he threw off 
the mask, and put himself effectually on the throne of 
Egypt,—arrogating, as Viceroy, authority which was 
absolute, and which the Sultan would gladly have 
deprived him of. The latter foresaw that the Pascha 
would one day assert his independence; for he had 
long been insolent and disobedient, and did every 
thing in his power to annoy him. He knew that he 
had his emissaries in all parts of Turkey; and that in 
order the better to carry his ambitious schemes into 
effect, he frequently excited revolts in the remoter 
provinces; and had numerous spies also at Constanti- 





AJ2 “THE CIRCASSIAN AND THE TALISMAN.” 


nople, who regularly acquainted him with all the secrets 
of the “Divan.” Several attempts were made to 
remove him. It is said that on one occasion, the 
Sultan gave him, among other presents, a beautiful 
Circassian slave ; and that before setting out, he sent 
for the poor innocent girl, and tried to inflame her 
simple imagination, by stating that he was about to 
send her to the king of a beautiful country 5 and that 
by means of a talisman which he would give her, she 
might cause him to be so cnamoured of her charms, 
as to make her his favourite Sultana. Then, producing 
a magnificent box, he took from a secret drawer, a 
small lozenge carefully wrapped up. Having enjoined 
the strictest secrec regard to the whole affair, he 
instructed her, that she should watch a favourable 
opportunity when her master was intoxicated with her 
beauty, and she was reclining on his bosom, te drop 
the talisman, unperceived hy him, into his cup ;—that 
it would speedily disappear, and that she should then 
induce him, by all the arts that Nature had 
made her mistress of, to ‘drink it of. This story 
(though Ido not vouch for its ‘accuracy,) will not seem 
improbable, when the manner in which females are 
brought up in these countries, is recollected. But of 
the sequel there is no doubt, A beautiful Circassian 
did arrive at Alexandria with other presents for the 
Pascha ; and I am assured that, as soon as Mohammed 
Ali was informed of the fact, he refused even to see 
her. Whether he suspected, with his usual shrewdness, 
that, having done nothing to merit such a mark of the 
Sultan's favour, there might be some treachery con- 
cealed, it is impossible to say ;—but at all events, he 
determined not to see her. All the’presents were, of 
course, received accordingto etiquette, compliments paid 





“THE IMPERIAL PIRMAUNS.” 413 


the bearers of them, and a suitable answer returned. 
But as soon as they were gone, he caused the slave to 
be taken to Bel-al-Agah, the Governor of Alexandria, 
a great fat man, who had rendered himself particularly 
obnoxious to the Pascha,—thinking, that if any 
mischief should be lurking at the bottom of this 
mystery, the evil which was designed for him, would 
possibly rid him of one whose services he no longer 
required! What befel the Goyernor, I am not 
prepared to say ;—but the fact is certain—that about 
this identical period, he was suddenly reported— 
defunct! 

On another occasion, certain parties arrived at 
Alexandria, bearing important “firmauns for the 
Pascha! A Cand’gia was sent down in great style, 
and with every demonstration of respect, to convey 
them to Cairo. Whether, and what, sinister views 
were suspected, it is not for me to determine; though 
a great deal was said at the time, about “ bow-strings,” 
and the like! If there were any evil machinations 
afloat, however, they were not afloat long;—for by 
some “accident” or other, (it certainly does blow 
very hard sometimes,) one night, the Cand’gia was 
upset, and the parties were—drowned ! 

It was not until Mohammed Ali broke out into open 
rebellion, that the Sultan took any very active 
measures to curb his insolence; for he was too con- 
scious of his own weakness. He, therefore, who under 
so many disadvantages and difficulties, could attain to 
such high honors, and establish himself as he has done, 
almost as an independent monarch,—who could win so 
many victories, subjugate neighbouring states, and in 
spite of all opposition, so far overcome the religious 
scruples of the people, as to associate them with 





414 THe vicrRoy'’s NATIVITY: MIS HABITS: 


Enropeans, and cause them to adopt many of their 
customs, (to say nothing of the Institutions which he 
has attempted to introduce,) can certainly be a 
person of no ordinary capacity. 

Mchammed Ali prides himself on having been 
born in the same year with the Duke of Wellington, 
Soult, Napoleon Buonaparte, and other illustrious 
characters, viz. in 1769. He was sincerely attached to 
his wife, a very superior woman, who had always great 
influence over him. She was buried by her son 
Toussoun Pascha, in a splendid mausoleum near 
Cairo. The Pascha is quite a man of business: he 
sleeps little; he is acquainted with no European 
language ; he is fond of chess, and takes great delight 
in sitting on the banks of the canal at Alexandria, and 
in the gardens of Shoubra near Cairo; visiting his 
dockyards, arsenal, citadel, and public works. He cares 
nothing about newspapers; but in order to please the 
authorities, he has established one in Egypt, called the 
“Cairo Gazette,” and another at Canea in Candia, 
‘The latter is published in the Turkish and Modern 
Greek languages. The Turkish title is “ Bvents in 
Crete,” and the Greek, “Cretan Ephemeris.” 

The Consuls of England and France had repeated 
interviews with the Viceroy on the subject of bis 
relations with Turkey. In 1838, just before he set out 
for Nubia, whither he went to inspect the gold mines 
of Fazoglon, Mohammed Ali expatiated largely ‘on 
the conduct of the Sultan. He did not hesitate to 
declare that Mahmoud was not in a situation to rule 
over the Syrian provinces; and as to Egypt, that it 
was time for Aim to think of a successor ;—at all 
events to see that the throne descended to his own 
family. He added, that the most certain means was, 





HIS RELATIONS WITH TURKEY: Hi8 HEIRS. 415 


to “free himself from the sovereignty of the Sublime 
Porte,—which would be easy, if England and France, 
viewing rightly their own interests, interposed no 
obstacles in the way of his designs.” After this cool 
declaration of his sentiments, he terminated the confer- 
ence by remarking that, “he did not wish to be 
wanting in the respect he owed to the Cabinets of 
London or Paris; and that on his return from Sennaar, 
if he did not receive a fayourable communication in 
the mean time, he should set himself to work, to put 
an end to this important affair." ‘The expedition 
alluded to afforded him a pretext also for evading the 
regulations lately enforced in other parts of the 
Turkish Empire; and the British Consul afterwards 
expressed great dissatisfaction at his intentional 
absence at the very time fixed for carrying the treaty 
of commerce into execution. Mohammed Ali was 
thought ready to forego his independence, if he conld 
secure the throne of Egypt to his family. There 
could be no doubt that this was his chief aim; and he 
would have liked future generations to say of him, that 
he had firmly seated his posterity on the banks of the 
Nile. But subsequently, inflated by success, which, 
sanguine as he was, he could not have anticipated, and 
getting possession of the Ottoman fleet, through the 
treachery of the Capoudan Pascha,—like most ambi- 
tious men, he knew not where to stop; and he began 
to make still further demands.* Until he was seventy 
years of age, he did not talk of a successor, and he 


* The Turkish fleet was betrayed into the hands of Mohammed Ali, by tho 
Cepoudan Fascha, on the 14th of July 1839. Its ehest contained 120,000. ; 
and when, at a subsequent period, Admiral Walker reproached the perfidious 
traitor, he replied with perfect nonchalance, that his motives eovld not be ap= 
procinted !"" He made religion the pretext 5 but there is very little doubt, 1 
think, that he was beibed—Vide Appendix. 





416 THE PASCHA’S DIPLOMACY. 


seemed to have no idea of death. About three years 
and-a-half ago, when the subject was mentioned, 
Tbrahim and his father had some words. It was 
evident, however, that he then began to turn his 
attention to the matter. At one time, he named Said 
Ben Ali, his son, who was only nineteen years of age, 
as his presumptive heir; at another, he spoke of 
dividing his dominions between Ibrahim, and Abbas 
Pascha his grandson (Governor of Cairo), who was 
twenty-seven years of age. He objected to Ibrahim, on 
account of his impetuosity ; and declared that he would 
have been lost long ago, had it not been for his own 
policy and stratagems,—spite of his bravery! 
may be some truth i r I i 
noble; Moham a 
has the power i . All diplo- 
matists, who have come in ¢ with him, have 
admired bis wonderful IT do not think one 
real intentions. I believe 
too suspicious, to think that 
his s talent enough to preserve an 
empire which cost him so much intriguing, and 
decisive one ath to obt That “the money of the 
great is never '—is a proverb which he bas followed 
to the very sees With him every thing is calculation. 
The enormous sums he squandered among the Turks 
and Arabs returned again to his coffers, after having 
produced considerable interest. More recently, Dr. 
Bowring came to Stamboul, to negociate the indepen= 
dence of Egypt with Lord Ponsonby and the Sultan, 
but he could make no impression on either; and 
Mohammed Ali's disappointment was considerable.” 


* The fuct ts, Dr. Bowring was deceived by the employés, and others, who 
Deing interested partios, allowed him to view only one side of the picture. 





PREPARATIONS FOR WAR—THE REDIF. 417 


He has since had recourse to all the schemes that the 
most inventive genius could devise, without effect. 
He threatened to march on the capital, to create 
revolts, burn the fleet, and involve the whole of Europe 
inawar. He has had talent enough to maintain his 
ground much longer than was expected. He trusted 
to France, and fully calculated on her powerful aid. 
Although at times depressed, he redoubled his 
energies,—took if possible more active measures,—sent 
re-inforcements to Syria, and with them an order to 
raise 10,000 additional conscripts there; and he ex- 
tended his fortifications. Twenty regiments of national 
guards were ordered to be formed in Egypt, each to 
consist of 3,200 men;—to exercise several hours 
weekly, and then to return to their labours, At Cairo, 
four regiments—at Alexandria, tvwo—at Damietta, and 
Old Cairo, each one,—the rest in the Delta and the 
provinces. Arms and ammunition were prepared, 
tremendous stores accumulated, the conscription went 
forward with increased vigour: two colonels were 
chosen from the “ Ulemah,”—one named Ahmed 
Ghininé, the ex-Cadi of the city; the other, 
Mohammed Salami, a relative of the Mufti; and it 
was evident that a strong resistance was to be made, 
incase of attack, The new soldiers of high rank were 
pleased at the idea; the people alarmed. The officers 
of the Turkish squadron had their pay raised two-thirds 
above that formerly paid by the Sultan; and with 
such promises in yprospectu, they expressed their 
willingness to fight against the Infidels, and the friends 
of their master! This was only a beginning; but 
every thing looked well, and the Pascha thought 
himself secure in his strong-hold. 


VOL. Ie EE 





CHAPTER XV. 


PACTS CONNECTED WITH THE DETENTION AND SUB~ 
SEQUENT RESTORATION OF THE OTTOMAN FLEET— 
THR WAR IN SYRIA—SUMMARY OF EVENTS — 
INTERFERENCE OF GREAT BRITAIN—THE FALL OF 
CAIFPA, BEYROUT, TRIPOLI, AND TARSOUS—THE 
BOMBARDMENT OF ACRE AND 8IDON— ENGLISH 
NAVAL GUNNERY—EGYPTIAN MILITIA—BRITISH EIN= 
FLUENCE IN THE LEVANT — MOHAMMED ALI'S 
INDIGNATION AT THE CONDUCT OF FRANCE— 


REYOLT OF THE BEDOVEENS—THE “ RHAMAD'HAN™ 
AND THE “ BAIRAM"—COMMODORE NAPIER’S CON- 
VENTION—THE CONFERENCE OF THE BOSPHORUS— 
COMMERCIAL ARRANGEMENTS — GENEROSITY OF 
THE URITISH ADMIRALS—PRENCH ENGINEERING — 
THE PASCHA'S NEW PROJECTS —MARMORICE, 
RUODES, AND THE COAST OF KARAMANIA, ETC. 


Mouammen Axt had been stimulated to the bold 
reply alluded to at the close of the last chapter,—partly 
by the assiduities of the French, who for a long period 
had great influence over him, and tried to please him ; 
but chiefly by a continued series of successful adven- 
tures. The destruction of the Mamliks was but the 
prelude to his fortunes ;—the army under the command 
of Ibrahim Pascha returned in triumph from the 
conquest of the Whahabees, in 1819, and was imme- 
diately despatched to the interior, headed by Ismael 





MOHAMMED ALI's NEW CONQUESTS. 419 


Pascha, his third son,—who, however, did not live to 
return, being assassinated in his tent by a Nubian 
chief. ‘The rage of the troops on this occasion knew 
no bounds; they were not to be restrained ; it is said, 
they satiated their revenge by the slaughter of not less 
than 30,000 people! They returned to Cairo without 
their leader, but crowned with laurels,—having reduced 
the kingdoms of Sennaar and Cordofan, and the 
entire districts of Nubia, the Cataracts, and Upper 
Egypt. The death of Ismael was a severe blow to 
the Viceroy, who had already lost his other son, 
Toussoun Pascha, in 1816; and his hopes now rested 
‘solely on Ibrahim, whose impetuosity of temper hefeared 
would one day draw him into some fatal scrape, and 
thus deprive him of the prospect of a male heir and 
suecessory—a circumstance on which the happiness of 
his life seemed to depend. Whilst these things 
were acting in Egypt, revolts were proceeding in 
‘Turkey; and in 1822, the head of Ali Pascha of 
Janina, was exposed within the Seraglio gates at Con- 
stantinople. Ibrahim Pascha was then sent by his 
father to the Morea, in aid of the Sultan’s cause, 
which, after many sanguinary contests, was virtually 
determined by the Battle of Navarino, on the 20th of 
October 1827. Mohammed Ali was cunningly 
“biding his time ;" and on the return of his son, he 
made the losses he had sustained in Greece, together 
with the advantages likely to accrue to the Sultan 
from his campaigns against the Whababees and 
the Nubians, a pretext for strong claims upon the 
Porte, In short, he demanded the Paschalics of 
Acria and Damascus. Candia was offered him instead; 
but this being in a state bordering on insurrection, 
and altogether inadequate to his expectations, he 
gze2 





420 THE CAMPAIGNS IN TURKEY AND GREECE. 


pretended to take umbrage, and subsequently withheld 
his aid when most needed, allowing the Emperor 
Mahmoud to fight his own battles against the Russians, 
who, after besieging Silistria, and Varna, crossed the 
Balkan, and compelled the Moslems to capitulate. 
It was clear that His Highness had done wrong by 
entrusting so much to his already too powerful vassal. 
‘The treaty of Adrianople, in September 1829, esta- 
blished the independence of the Greek States; and 
soon afier, Otho of Bavaria was placed on the throne 
by the five powers. Mohammed Ali was not idle all 
this time. He watched the proceedings of the Sultan 
with the eye of a lynx, and secretly fomented discord 
in the Turkish provinces. He had now become 
sufficiently acquainted with Europeans, to desire their 
services, and invite them to his dominions; but he 
was rash; he deceived others, and was deceived 
himself :—tempted by the piastres, all sorts of charac~ 
ters flocked around him; now and then, he met with 
clever men, but seldom with talent, experience, and 
principle united, He was very desirous of extending 
his marine. He passed a great deal of his time at the 
arsenal at Alexandria, and caused four frigates and 
several smaller vessels to be built in rapid succession, 
under the superintendence of Monsieur Cerisier, a 
French engineer, whom he appointed to the head of 
the dock-yard. Two ships of the line were then laid 
down, and his first three-decker of 110 guns, was 
launched on the 3rd of January 1831. About the 
same time, he purchased a large frigate of the English, 
which, fortunately for him, was sent out under the 
command of Captain Prissick, R.N. who, with the 
energy which distinguished him on all oceasions, 

ferring activity to a life of ease, allowed himself 





IBRAHIM'S DESCENT UPON SYRIA. 42) 


to be persuaded to remain in the Pascha’s service.* 
The Viceroy continued his warlike preparations with 
unremitting perseverance. Ibrahim raised a body of 
cavalry; several new regiments of infantry were 
organized on the European system; and in the course 
of about four years, from twenty-six to thirty sail were 
added to the Egyptian navy. Sanguine with success, 
the Pascha determined to ¢ake what his master had 
denied; he had no difficulty in finding a pretext for 
waging war with Abd’-allah, Pascha of Acria, who 
locked himself up in his strong hold, with immense 
stores, and a garrison of 3000 men. Ibrahim may be 
said to have commenced the siege on the 27th of 
November 1831; but being opposed by the inhabitants 
of the neighbouring districts, did not finally take 
possession of the citadel, until the 27th of May 
following ; although he had been joined by the Emir 
Beschir, and the Druses of Lebanon. He was able to 
depend on a very few of his officers; and the 
expedition cost the Viceroy between 4000 and 5000 
men. Abd-'allah, who on various occasions had made 
himself obnoxious to the Sultan, was now sent a 
prisoner to the Bosphorus: the Sultan beeame 
exasperated at the Pascha’s assurance, and on the 14th 
of March 1832, dismissed Hussein, whom he had 
previously employed to destroy the Janizaries, (and 
whom be now appointed Pascha of Egypt, in Moham- 
med Ali's stead,) with an army to attack Ibrahim, 
who, as well as his father, was anathematized by the 
Scheikh ul Islam; and a fleet was also despatched to 
the Levant.t To show his contempt for this, the 
Viceroy induced the Scheriff of Mekka to issue a 
similar bull or fethwa against the Sultan, declaring 

* See ante, Chap. I1.; also Vol. 11. ehsp. W. 4 Sex ante, Chap. 1. 





422 THE TAKING OF ALEPPO AND DAMASCUS. 


Turks had advanced upon Homs, he } 
them battle; the ce his herent 
exceed 16,000 men ; nevertheless, he eompletely rou 
them, taking twelve guns and 3000 prisoners. 
the seventeenth of July he became master of A 

It is to be feared his soldiers committed great exe 
there, for we are assured on good authority, that 
population of 200,000 was reduced to 75,000. 
shall have occasion to demonstrate that rapine | 
plunder form no part of Ibrahim’s policy; but 
who understand the character of Oriental nations, : 
scarcely be reminded, that when once excited, it is 
always in the power of the wisest generals to i 
them,—especially when, as in the 

their efforts have been rewarded by repeated 
tories. Elated with so large a share of prosperity, th 
Egyptians engaged the enemy again at Beylau, in th 
north of Syria, beat them, and carried off twenty- 
pieces of cannon :—subsequently crossing the Tauru 
from Adana, they encamped in the plains of Anat 
having destroyed no less than 70,000 men in | 
battles! On the eighteenth of November 
entered Konieh; the whole country was panic: 

and it was confidently expected that Ibrahim wo 
march upon the capital. Had he done so, he wo 
certainly have lost, by one rash step, all that he ha 
gained by his previous campaigns. He was we 
aware that the Russians were ready to espouse 
cause of the Sultan, if even the other European po 
did notinterfere. He determined therefore tore 

army, and to wait until compelled to defend | 





THE PASSAGE OF THE TAURUS—REVOLTS. 423 


against the aggressions of others. He might now be 
said to have conquered the whole of Syria. Ile con- 
centrated a large force at Aleppo and Damascus ; and 
comparatively little effort was made by the Porte to 
eject him: schemes were continually tried indirectly 
to undermine his authority ; and revolts, to which it is 
said the Russians were accessory, frequently occurred. 
Of course, the excesses committed by the mountaineers 
and the wandering tribes were all laid to Ibrahim’s 
charge, Doubtless, as a leader, he found it necessary 
to make many summary examples; but wherever he 
went, he did all he could to conciliate, as I shall have 
occasion to point out. The Sultan Mahmoud’s health 
now began rapidly to decline. Worried by political 
intrigues, intestine broils, disappointment, and chagrin, 
his constitution, which had already been impaired by 
indulgence, seemed to give way: a show of opposition 
was still made to the proceedings of the Viceroy, but 
His Highness evidently foresaw what the result would 
be; and he was not without sundry misgivings 
concerning himself. Time passed on. Mohammed 
Ali continued to strengthen the places which he held 
on the frontier, and to suppress revolts:—the Sultan 
did the same ; but there was a great deal of vacillation 
in his conduct. Proclamations were issued without 
being enforced; divans were summoned; the Euro- 
pean Ministers were consulted; and troops were levied, 
marched about, and recalled ;—but nothing of any 
consequence was done, until the spring of 1839. It 
appeared as if a decisive blow was then to be struck 5 
for suddenly a movement was made towards the 
Euphrates. A force amounting to not less than 
35,000 men, under the command of Hafiz Pascha, 
(aided by several Prussian officers,) assembled on the 





424 THE SULTAN'S ILLNESS, AND LAST DEPEAT- 


right bank of the river, and laid siege to about sixty 
villages. On the twenty-second of May, they fortified 
themselves at Nezib; and two days afterwards, falling” 
in with the Egyptian out-posts, and the division of 
Suleyman Bey, at Ouroul, some desperate skirmishing 
took place, which became the signal for Ibrahim to 
advance from Aleppo. Having carefully reconnoitered 
the enemy, he made a few manceuvres, with a view of 
getting, if possible, into their rear, not liking their 
position. The two armies were numerically equal ; 
but he could not depend onall his troops; and feeling 
that this battle, if well contested, might lead to the 
overthrow of the Sultan’s couse, he boldly placed 
himself between his antagonists and the Euphrates, 
thinking to prevent the possibility of desertion. Never- 
theless, 1800 of his Syrian Guards joined the Turks 
during the action, and several disaffected corps quitted 
their ranks, and were dispersed at the very onset, 
The engagement took place on the 24th of June 
1839; and, as usual, was decided in favour of Ibrahim. 
The Ottoman army was completely routed; the 
havoc was very great; and those that escaped the 
carnage, were plundered by the wandering tribes: 
numbers afterwards died of their wounds, or perished 
in the wilderness from fatigue and the want of food 
and water. The power and the name of the Viceroy 
were, from this time, effectually established: insurrec- 
tions continued to occur at intervals, but they were 
put down without much trouble ; for the people found 
the military no longer inclined to aid them, the most 
unlooked-for treachery having developed itself in 
favour of Mohammed Ali. It was just at this crisis, 
that the news arrived of the base surrender of the 
Sultan’s fleet, which on the eighth of June had sailed 





TREACHERY OF THR CAPOUDAN PascHA. 425 


from the Dardanelles, with considerable reinforcements; 
besides, many dissensions and jealousies existed 
between the officers, both by sea and by land: the 
Europeans who had espoused the cause of the Sultan 
grew tired of his service; and the troops being sick 
and dispirited, having sustained so many hardships 
and defeats, were unwilling to prolong a contest which 
they considered as hopeless. 

No man ever enjoyed a larger share of good luck, 
perhaps, than Mohammed Ali, Through life, every 
thing seemed to combine to further his views, There 
is reason to believe, that he had long been in commu- 
nication with the perfidious Achmed, Capoudan 
Pascha; and that bribery did its part. Be this os it 
may, the delivery of the Sultan’s fleet into his hands 
at such a moment, was an event which the most ardent 
adventurer could not have anticipated. As soon as 
he found himself in actual possession of it, he altered 
his policy. When he heard that Hafiz was advancing 
with a large army and 150 pieces of cannon, he com- 
manded his son to wait until he was first attacked ; but 
circumstances were now changed, and he determined 
to lay aside the mask. Accordingly, he dismissed a 
courier to Syria with peremptory instructions; and the 
same despatches which conveyed to Ibrahim intelligence 
of what bad transpired, brought him orders to attack 
the Turks without reserve :—his wishes were scrupu- 
lously complied with, and we have seen with what 
result. It had long been suspected that the Pascha 
was preparing to throw off the Turkish yoke; he had 
not paid any tribute for two years, and he now 
became bolder than ever; having like an experienced 
gamester, calculated his chances. Some kind friend 
whispered into his ear something about the unset- 





426 THE VICEROY'S CALCULATIONS, THREATS, 


tled state of the British colonies, and the possibility 
of a rupture between America and the Mother-country, 
—powerful fleets were cruising in the Mediterranean, 
and the whole Continent of Europe was up in arms 
—nobody knew why !—discussions ran high among 
diplomatists; and couriers were continually passing 
between St. George’s Channel, Paris, and the 
Bosphorus! He knew that bis proceedings were 
watched, and commented on: he believed that, in the 
Cabinets of Europe, he had as many friends as 
enemies; and he comforted himself with the idea, 
that if England opposed him, France would take up 
his cause ;—that this would lead to a general war, 
which all parties were anxious to avoid; and as a bold 
adventurer, he was ready to “stand the hazard of the 
die.” He had succeeded in Syria beyond his most 
sanguine expectations ; and it was not to be supposed, 
that having gained possession of the Turkish fleet, 
he would easily be induced to give it up; he had 
no thought of such a thing, and prohibited, on pain of 
death, the return of any Turkish officer: at the same 
time, he nominated Achmed (the very man who 
had deserted the Sultan) to the command of the 
united Turkish and Egyptian navy. ‘This was done 
in direct opposition to the British, who offered to 
grant a passport to all who, being detained against 
their will, wished to withdraw. The Paseha, en- 
couraged by so unlooked-for an addition to his power, 
still carried on the war in the most determined 
manner; but he foresaw that, although he had con- 
quered Syria, he should bave enough to do to retain 
it, and bring the mountain tribes under his entire 
subjection. He therefore instructed his son to be 
firm and resolute; but to act once more on the 





AND REMONSTRANCK WITH COL, HopGESs. 427 


defensive, and be satisfied: he re-inforced his army, 
especially on the borders of Asia Minor; he took 
care that they should be well supplied with every 
necessary, and laid up abundant stores at all the 
fortresses on the coast, which, aided by French en- 
gineers, he continued to . But he threat- 
ened to march on pa Bre in the event of steps 
being taken to compel him to submit. If any one 
attacks me,” said he, I will defend myself; but E will 
not attack any body !"—confident of success if left to 
take his own course,—sanguine of powerful assistance 
in case of need! On this he built all his hopes; and 
certainly he had a right to expect the proffered aid of 
his political advisers ; but he was flattered and cajoled 
by them most completely, 

The English now began in good earnest to interfere 
in behalf of their “ancient ally.” They remonstrated 
with Mohammed Ali in the most sincere and friendly 
manner; they pointed out to him the absurdity of his 
conduct, and at last told him without disguise, that his 
views concerning Syria could not be tolerated : they 
acted towards him with the greatest forbearance, and 
warned him of the critical position in which he was 
about to place himself, But it was in vain; he con- 
tinued to arm, and to reinforce the camp at Mount 
Taurus and Damascus. As a sort of practical hint, 
on the 30th of March, 1840, they intercepted several 
hundred Albanian volunteers, who were proceeding to 
Alexandria in Lonian vessels, to recruit the Egyptian 
army. This circumstance so irritated the Pascha, that 
he threatened Colonel Hodges, the British Consul- 
General, “to produce a revolt in Albania.” Nothing 
doubting that he had both the will and the power to 
do so, if excited, the Colonel, with a view to open his 





428 EDUCATION MAKES THE MAN! 


eyes to the folly of such asseverations, treated him in 
his own way, after the manner of the Orientals,— 
though he is said to have used a strong, and, in Zuro- 
pean diplomacy, somewhat unusual figure, in his reply 
to such vapouring. “ Know," said he, “that if you 
persist in the use of such language, it is in the power 
of England to pulverize you, ere three months expire!” 
The arrogant and despotic can only be subdued by an 
unflinching firmness of manner: once let them get the 
ascendancy, even in tone or demeanour, and they will 
soon have you beneath their feet. It is the same in 
the East as in the world at large. Among the wealthy 
who have risen from nothing, we sometimes meet with 
persons who presume upon their good fortune,—who 
not unfrequently mistake the deference which is paid 
to their rank for homage, and are mean enough to 
take advantage of generosity. Inflated with pride, 
their vanity persuades them that, because they are rich, 
they are necessarily great and honourable; and thus it 
too often happens that the worthy are slighted by the 
unworthy,—the overbearing insult the meek,—and the 
ignorant and purse-proud, who are tolerated in society 
for the sake of their money, though pitied, laughed at, 
and despised, (being for the most part conceited, un- 
principled, and sordid characters,) atterapt to trample 
upon those whose merits and education have excited 
their jealousy and spleen. Such men are sure to find 
their own level, if treated with the same hauteur which 
they affect to display towards others. Whenever we 
have any dealings with people who, from not knowing 
better, make an undue use of their authority, we must 
uphold our dignity in self-defence ; —it will never do 
to let them imagine that they can gain their ends by 
intimidation, The would-be-great are generally cowards 
5 





MOHAMMED ALI's DUPLICITY. 429 


at heart; and, like the imperious in hot countries, 
often bluster and talk to make a show of their conse- 
quence. 

The case was somewhat different with Mohammed 
Ali, inasmuch as he asserted no more than he was able 
to accomplish. His bravery was undoubted ; his 
talents distinguished; he had raised himself to real 
power, and his threats were no empty words: he dared 
do any thing ; yet, much as he might hope to silence 
the Consul as he had discomfited others, by his 
intrepidity,—he must have had his misgivings, seeing 
that a storm was gathering around him. The dispute 
between him and Colonel Hodges ran high; it was 
adjusted at last, by the other consuls: nevertheless, 
Tis Highness was not to be diverted from his original 
purpose; and in a short time, the “Gorgon” steam- 
frigate made her appearance off the coast, bringing a 
formal demand for the immediate restitution of the 
Turkish flect. The Pascha controlled his feelings : 
he received the British Envoy with respect, urbanity, 
and gentleness ;—seeming to submit, he remonstrated 
in his turn; complained bitterly of the treatment he 
had experienced from the Porte, attempted to justify 
himself, and was quite ready to do any thing they 
wished, provided they would allow him to make his 
own conditions! A specious answer was returned,— 
the demand was several times repeated, —some plaus- 
ible excuse was always ready,—complimentary letters 
found their way to the capital,—fair words and 
promises in abundance,—but no ships! An embargo 
was still laid upon the Sultan's lieges; many of them 
contracted the diseases of the country, and died; the 
rest were held fast in the land of bondage, and com- 
pelled to submit to Egyptian officers: the fortifications 





430 THE PASCHA'S ENGINEERS—ANECDOTE. 


were extended, and every day brought recruits and 
fresh supplies to Alexandria. It is probable, that if 
the Viceroy had at this time quietly withdrawn his 
troops from Syria, and surrendered the fleet without 
giving the Sultan any further trouble, he would have 
been granted hereditary possession of Egypt, and 
perhaps, even the Paschalic of Acre ; but, obstinate to 
the last, and contrary to the wishes of his son Ibrahim, 
he must needs persist in his hostile and perverse 
measures; and England, wearied with being put off 
by him under various pretences, evidently in order to 
gain time, sent a fleet to blockade the coast, Mo- 
hammed Ali still continued to be duped by his French 
employés; his engineers reported St. Jean d’Acre 
impregnable :—it might have been, in the hands of 
Europeans, but after a cannonade of three hours and 
a-half, the British and Turkish flags were floating: 
from the walls. They assured him also that “four of 
their guns were equal to the broadside of an English 
man-of-war!” At Alexandria 400 guns bore upon 
the sea, therefore the batteries were numerically equi- 
yalent to a British fleet of 100 sail of the line! 
—to say nothing of the new line of batteries which has 
since been raised for the defence of the eastern 
harbour; but, as a competent eye-witness remarks, 
“the 24-pounder gun-carriages, and platforms along 
this water-line, are very ill constructed; the latter 
are so scanty that they would probably fall backward 
at the first shot, and knock their own wheels off! 
‘The mortars too, sit on a sandy foundation, which is 
shaken at every charge when the men are exercising ; 
and there is, therefore, no possibility of taking a sure 
aim with them!” So much for the Pascha’s engi- 
neers!—I do not pretend to give an opinion on these 





FORTIFICATIONS OF ALEXANDRIA. 431 


matters myself; 1 only record them to illustrate how 
miserably Mohammed Ali was deceived. Fort Cretin 
(the hill-fort within the walls nearest the Rosetta 
Gate) has been enlarged, and armed with heavy guns. 
The old Pharos tower has also been converted into. 
a fort, and a new light-house erected in its stead, on 
the promontory of the * Ras el Teen,” (Cape of Figs) 
behind the Seraglio, 

T have such documents in my poscession, and I have 
been an eye-witness of 30 much trickery myself, that 
were I so disposed, 1 could adduce many things to 
illustrate the negligence, waste, and apathy which 
distinguish, with few exceptions, those who are 
engaged in the Pascha’s service; but I will merely 
refer to one which is of recent occurrence. When the 
combined fleets were reported ready to put to sea, the 
balls were found to be too big for the cannons! 
Some of the ships were then served four times by the 
store-keeper, before he could hit the proper calibre; 
and lightermen might be seen pitching them in at one 
side, and taking out at the other. “Tis not my 
fault,” said the captain, “I sent an order for so many 
rounds for my ship. Those fellows in the arsenal 
ought to know the size of the guns they put in her.” 
“It’s no fault of mine,” said the store-keeper, ‘Isent 
all the cartridges they asked for; and they might have 
tried and sent them all back again at once, if they were 
not too lazy.” 

1 have already alluded to the manner in which 
Mohammed Ali raises troops.* ‘The cruelties prac- 
tized on these occasions are nothing new, and I will 
close this subject with a few respecting the 
“Redif,” national guard, or militia of Egypt, of 

* See ante, Chap. IY. 





432 THE CONSCRIPT SYSTEM—THE MILITIA. 


which a great deal has been said by the Pascha’s 
partizans, 

‘They are very numerous, but they consist chiefly of 
boys and old men, stolen from their families, and 
driven down in chains to the coast, there to be drilled, 
or sent on board the ships, (if occasion require.)* 
At first, it was not intended to send them out of the 
country, or even away from the town in which they 
were raised ; but in cases of emergency, it is not to 
be supposed that the authorities would be at all 
particular; if troops were wanted, they must be had. 
In April, 1840, a regiment of 3,200 was formed at 
Damietta; and subsequently, as many at Rosetta, 
Boulac, and Old Cairo, besides those at Alexandria, 
the capital, and other large towns ;—and it is impos= 
sible to form an idea of the wretchedness occasioned 
by the system pursued. No less than 12,000 work- 
men were sent at one time, from the Cairo manufac- 
tories to the camp of Toura, where they were exercised. 
‘This circumstance caused great consternation in their 
families. The women, as a sign of grief, stained 
their hands with indigo, and the poorest, with mud. 
‘They roamed about the streets, uttering piercing cries, 
and tearing their hair; and they did not hesitate to 
toake their appearance on the drill-ground, as often as 
they could. The vacancies left in the manufactories 
were filled up by Copts, who are the descendants of 
the ancient Egyptians, and now, Christians.t Of 

* A letter from Alexandria, dated November 17th, 1640, confirms thins “We 
see wretched, poverty-stricken Fellah conscripte marched into Alexandria, grey~ 
beards, young men, and boys scarcely able to carry » musket, fettered togother 
by stripa of tisber, and distributed tothe various dephts, batteries, and public 
wT Teas ine bun Aalare ta th Ralf chat they ee So ener hana 


the same aa the regular troops! 
Many of the factories were abandoned altogether, and for long time 





STATE OF THE MANUFACTORIES. 133 


the workmen above mentioned, 3,200 were sent off 
forthwith to complete two regiments quartered at 
Alexandria, ‘The rest were commanded to garrison 
the citadel at Cairo, and to do the duty of the regular 
troops in other places. They made great progress in 
military tactics, being naturally apt; and besides the 
regular drill, they were compelled to exercise one 
another daily in the use of the musket; so that they 
soon began to rival the troops of the “ Nizam,” and 
every effort was made to inspire them with nationality ; 
in some instances with success. The period appointed 
as the full service of the “ Redif” is nominally twenty- 
two years; at the expiration of which time, they are 
to be set at liberty. They are promised five piastres 
per month, and after six months’ service, twenty 
piastres! The officers of the militia are chiefly 
opulent men, and they are allowed to wear the 
“Nizam” uniform, as a mark of rank; but some of 
them gave themselves such airs in consequence, that 
(to show the estimation in which they were held,) 
Mohammed Ali very unceremoniously ordered “ their 
beards to be shaved off,” to distinguish them from the 
regular troops! The order was immediately obeyed! 
A seller of corn proposed to the Pascha, to raise 
fourteen regiments at Cairo, instead of eight, a 
display of zeal which elevated him to the rank of 
colonel; and in the event of his succeeding, he was to 
become a Pascha of two tails !* 


previously, those employed in them, were fed on bad Urend, and the flesh of 
‘animale that. had died of disesse;—and even thie was gold to them at on 
exorbitant price. 

* Others havo since followed his example, though not with equal snocees j— 
ut they have extorted money from the people to an enormous extent, (without 
the Pasoba's knowledge,) as an indemolty for service! Mobammed Ali caused 
‘one man to be severely bustinadoed for trying to kidnap the servants of the Franks 
in this way. 

vou. le rr 





434 THE FALL OF BEYROUT. CAIFFA, AND TARSOTS. 





The Turkish shopkeepers of Cairo and Alexandria 
were very indignant when ther understood that they 
were to be included in the “ Redif ;~ and phlegmatic as 
they are, refused to co-operate with the Arab militia, — 
so great was the national enmity which existed between 
them. They were therefore organized as a distinct 
body. This was, nevertheless, a dangerous policy ; 
for these people had alirays enjoyed a practical ex- 
emption from personal servitude, and were almost as 
much at their ease as the Franks,—save in the matter 
of taxation, a point which the Pascha never overlooks. 
Such pitiful conscripts, were they even attached to 
their master, could be of little use, one would think, 
where active service was required; seeing that they 
were indifferently supported by experienced soldiers : 
but the Pascha was three years anda half in arrears 
with most of his regular army, and the veteran troops, 
who were all truly devoted to the cause of Ibrahim, 
were at this time, chiefly in Svria, or scattered. 

On the 10th of October 1840, a battle took place 
between the allies, and the combined forces of Ibrahim 
and Suleyman Pascha (Colonel Selves), near Beyrout, 
in which the latter were so completely routed, that 
their leaders retreated to the mountains, with only 200 
cavalry and two officers. The number of men killed, 
wounded, and taken prisoners, was above 7000; and 
on the same night, Beyrout was taken by the English. 
Up to this period, the Egyptian army had lost in 
deserters, killed, and wounded, upwards of 20,000 
men, not including the 15,000 Druses which now went 
over to the allies with the emir Beschir. The Emir 
el Kassim was appointed successor to the Emir 
Beschir, who being very aged, retired with his family 
to Malta. (See Appendix.) 


THE BOMBARDMENT OF ACRE AND sipoN. 435 


Caifla was taken on the 20th, after a slight 
resistance; and on the 26th, Sidon,—which was the 
Pascha’s chief depat of arms, ammunition and stores 5 
and one of the strongest military positions on the 
coast. Here the Egyptians lost 300 killed, and 2,470 
were taken, (including some sick,) and sent back to 
D'jouni. Lieutenant Hocking, a young man of great 
enterprise and promise, was the only English officer 
who suffered. He fell whilst bravely leading on a 
storming party, together with six or eight marines, and 
blue jackets, and about as many Turks. ‘Tripoli and 
‘Tarsous soon followed ; and on the third of November, 
the bombardment of Acre. This was a most terrific 
affair. “During the attack,” writes the Admiral, “the 
principal magazine blew up in consequence of a well 
directed shell from the Gorgon" steam-frigate : 
(Captain W. Henderson.) By the explosion, two 
entire regiments, formed in position on the ramparts, 
were annihilated, and every living creature within the 
area of 60,000 square yards ceased to exist; the loss 
of life being variously computed at from 1,200, to 2000 
persons. ‘Those who may have been inclined to doubt 
the fighting qualities of the Egyptian troops, might ac- 
quire a lesson from the example of their endurance, if 
they could but contemplate the devastation and scene 
of herror by which this once formidable fortress is 
enshrouded. The moral influence on the cause in 
which we are engaged, that will result from its sur- 
render, is incalculable.”* 1 suppose there never 
was an instance known of naval gunnery superior 
to that displayed on this occasion. Such a cannona- 

* Estract from the dispatches of Colonel Sir Charles ¥. Smith, commanding 
the foroee in Syria and from the Admiral, Sir Robert Stopford. 
er? 





436 NAVAL GUNNERY—THE HORRORS OF WAR. 


ding has seldom before been heard, and on no occasion 
eae were fewer shots wasted. The “ Princess 
Charlotte” alone fired 4,508 balls, or one broadside — 
every two minutes, for 86 rounds; and during # 
same period, the * Bellerophon” consumed 14,033 lbs. 
or 160 barrels of powder, and 26 tons weight of metal. 
20,000 shot and shell were discharged in the course 
three hours and a half. The force of shipping 
employed, was quite disproportionate to the immense 
strength of this redoubted fortress, which baffled 
Buonaparte and a French army, and which has un- 
dergone both in ancient and modern history, more 
numerous and desperate sieges than perhaps any 
other in the world, — It fell into the hands of [brahim 
Pascha in 1832, and was rebuilt and strengthened by 
French engineers. It was defended by 460 guns of 
the heaviest calibre, which on this occasion were 
worked by French bombardiers. ‘ But," writes one 
who was present, “knowing the customers we had to 
deal with, our guns were fought in good earnest, 
pouring broadside upon broadside into the fortress, with 
a rapidity and steadiness not surpassed by any thing 
we read of in our naval history, The enemy’s shot 
flew over our heads, and damaged our rigging, but 
very few struck the hulls of the vessels, and of course 
did little mischief, the total loss being twenty-three 
killed, and fifty wounded: whereas, the Egyptians 
had 2,500 killed, an immense number wounded, 
and lost 3,500 prisoners; besides 3,000 which 
were brought in by the mountaineers, and nearly 
as many who afterwards marched back and gave 
their arms. A most hideous spectacle presented ii 

the next day. The spot on which the explosion took 
place was like the crater of a volcano.—Heaps of 





THE FORTRESS AND GARRISON OF ACRE. 437 


dying and dead, variously mutilated, were to be seen ; 
the cattle shared the fate of their owners, and the 
whole town was a mass of ruins. About 1,200 horses 
were seized, and an enormous quantity of stores and 
matériel was found, exceeding what has been expended 
in the warfare on the coast of Syria, and estimated at 
little short of £100,000; among the ordnance, a 
splendid park of artillery of 200 guns in first-rate 
order, besides 120 that were mounted on the walls, 
from twenty-four to eighty-four pounders, and sixty 
large mortars. ‘There was, moreover, a great quantity 
of specie; and an astonishing number of shot and shell 
piled up by the side of each gun.”—Colonel Schultz 
(a Pole) denominated “ Youssouff Agah,” the chief 
engineer of the Syrian army, was seriously wounded, 
and taken prisoner. The defence of the place had 
been entrusted to him, and he declared that no men 
could have stood their ground better than the 
Egyptians did; but, he added, “the firing from the 
ships was so tremendous, that it was impossible that 
any human power could work the guns, especially as 
all the smoke blew directly in their faces, and they 
could seareely see what they were about.”* 

At the commencement of the action, the garrison 
consisted of upwards of 6000 men, and it was capable 
of sustaining a siege of six or eight months. The 
incredibly short time in which it was taken, has made 


* Boxides the smoke, another circumstance tended to render the Egyptian 
firing inetfectual. Captain Boxer of the “ Pique,’ went over-night to take 
soundings. He laid down buoys, and the garrison aupposed the aquadron would 
auchor outside of them but to their surprise, they broughtsto within the 
Wuoys, clove under the walla. ‘The emoke prevented them altering the 
of the gave y “ Otherwise," as the Duke of Wellington subsequently remar 
in the House of Lord, * although this must be considered as one of the mout 
splendid achievements of wodera tes, i 6 net neva eo combat stone wale so 
succesfully !"—See Appendix. 





438 MOHAMMED ALt's WRATH AND INDIGNATION = 


an impression on the minds of the whole Sytian popu- 
Jation, which will never be effaced. It has effectu a 
established British influence in the Mediterrancan. al 
When the Pascha first heard that Acre had fallen, he 
became extremely low-spirited and tacitur ; especially | 
as he could gain no tidings of Ibrahim, orof Suleyman 
Paseha, and his communication with Damascus 
effectually eut off;—the inhabitants of Nablous and | 
Houran being up in arms against him, his own 
discontented, and the confidence of the Bedoueens 
began to be shaken. He gave orders for the com= 
bined fleets to prepare to leave the harbour without — 
dolay; and then assembled his ministers, The — 
French Consul-general, Monsieur Cochelet, was 
summoned, and as usual, recommended him to wast 
the arrival of the French steamer from Toulon, I 
will wait no longer for France,” said he, in a tone 
which be had never before been known to use,—* T 
have waited too long already. France has been the 
cause of all my embarrassment. What have I gained 
by following your advice? Nothing! and I haye 
Jost the whole coast of Syria! Henceforth, I will be 
fooled no longer by France—I will now act for 
myself.” This was a singular out-break for the — 
Pascha, whose prudence and politeness seldom permit 
him to shew his temper. The Consul, however, was: 
quite cool; and at last persuaded him to “wait: 
awhile :—the sailors continued busy in the “tops,” 
but there was no sign of preparation for sailing. 

‘The unfavourable turn which events had taken hy 
the 11th of November, induced Mohammed Ali - | 
adopt a different course. He perceived that the great 
struggle for independence would now be in ot 
and he resolved to make a last and desperate on 





HIS PBRPLEXITY, AND DESPERATE POLICY. 439 


the coast. He burried on the fortifications, inspected 
every thing himself, and wrote to Cairo to prevent the 
reinforcements setting off to Syria, which were to have 
consisted of 6000 troops from the Hed’jaz, and 1000 
Bedoucens, with camels and stores in proportion. 
These were ordered to repair forthwith to Alexandria, 
and he dispatched messengers to ferret out Ibrahim 
and Suleyman, with instructions to concentrate their 
forces, and join him without loss of time. He sum- 
moned the tribes also in the vicinity of the Red Sea, 
and all those troops that were “en route’ from Arabia 
to Cosseir, He then tried to ingratiate himself with 
the Frank merchants, by paying all his debts, and by 
permitting the English mails to proceed without 
interruption to India :—he even granted letters of safe 
conduct for them, and a kavaass to see his orders 
enforced ;—a line of policy resembling that of the 
‘wise steward” in the parable ; for at this very time, 
he was eighteen months in arrears with his army and 
navy! The next thing that occurred to perplex him, 
was the arrival at Cairo of the wounded from Syria. 
Dead men tell no tales,—but the sick and destitute 
can be very eloquent. Schemes were had recourse 
to, for the purpose of imposing upon the credulous 
Arabs, and a report was circulated, that 2000 English 
prisoners had been taken, and were on their way to 
Cairo. But it would not dos—the trath will out— 
even in Egypt ! 

He then evinced great anxiety to establish military 
communications between Cairo and Damascus; and 
an attempt was made to determine by a circuitous 
route, a line of sixty-four telegraph stations, over 
mountain and desert ;—but this could not be accom- 
plished ; for the passes and high roads were all beset 





440 REVOLT AND DESERTION—THE PLAGUE. 


by the native tribes, who, emboldened by the success 
of the English, were now attempting to restore their 
former independence, or to avail themselves of the 
opportunity afforded them of plundering caravans. 
They seized the couriers and escorts whenever they 
could, and disposed of their steeds at the nearest place. 
Fine Arabian coursers were selling at Beyrout, Sidon, 
and Botroun, for two and four pounds each, Many of the 
* Redif” deserted, fearing lest they should be marched 
off to join the army in the absence of more effective 
troops. When retake n, they were’ most cruelly 
bastinadoed. No Arab was permitted to quit the 
town, under any pretence, without a written permission; 
and whenever any man presented himself at the gates, 
o ascertain whether his 

rks borne by soldiers and 

in a state of siege, 


The Bedoucens of # > of Beni Ali, who are the 
acknowledged guardians of 


€ who came in their way, and 
if they made the least resistance, to fire upon them, 
Thus, whenever th iv 

certain death awaited 

manner, Thirty poor er 

condemned to work as slaves on sca the ships for 


mind the want of sewers, 
and the filthy, ai even crowded state of the city. It 
was literally crammed with people. To render matters 
worse, the plague made its appearance in the fleet; 
and although many deaths had occurred, the men were 
sent ashore to work in the dock-yard and batteries by 
day, regardless of consequences; - and they were com- 





THE SEASON OF THE RHAMAD'HAN. 441 


pelled to return at night, lest they should be tempted 
to desert. So little did Mohammed Ali contemplate 
surrendering the fleet, notwithstanding the severe 
lesson which he had been taught, and his seeming 
contrition, that he even provided uniforms and clothing 
for the Turkish crews at an enormous expense, that 
they might be identified and incorporated with his own 
marine.* There was now apparently a cessation of 
hostilities on the part of his opponents, but no want of 
energy. The fact is, that being reluctant to proceed 
to extremities, well knowing what the result would be, 
and how terrible a sacrifice of life it must occasion, 
the English paused, to give the Pascha time to 
reflect; but they sent in a formal declaration to the 
merchants, that the coast would be blockaded on the 
20th of November. This being the season’ of the 
Rhamad’han, the great Mohammedan fast, which is 
generally distinguished by hilarity, harmony, and 
good-will, as well as by devotional exercises, the more 
pious attended the mos’ques as usual ; salutations were 
performed; the streets were thronged throughout the 
night; and the bazaars continued open as in more 
peaceable times. But there were these peculiar features 
in the case, from the Ist to the 19th more especially, 
which to the authorities was a period of anxious 
suspense ;—soldiers were hourly marching into the 
town—recruits were drilling in every open space—no 


* 1t happened ludicrously enough, that just about this time, letters arrived 
from the Porte, appointing Saieed Pascha, High Admiral, and Mustapha, Qy’= 
amachan of the fleet. When the announcement was made, the Viceroy laughed. 
outright ; and we are told, sent Mustapha hit nomination by the same officer 
who brought tho mosénge, Mustapha hastened to the palace, when the Pascha 
declared that ‘he alone bad brought the floot into Its preseut guod condition, 
and that his business was wot done yet.'” From this moment, the old Cspoudan 
Pasoba laid aside his uniform ; nevertheless, he continued to hold secret confer 
ence with Mohammed Ali. 





442 THE BLOCKADE OF ALEXANDRIA. 


person was allowed to pass the gates—men were oc- 
cupied in all directions, leading donkeys laden with 
stores and ammunition—huge piles of shot and shell 
were raised upon the ramparts—the arsenal was in a 
constant bustle; and at intervals, there was heard the 
roaring of artillery, owing to the frequent exereising of 
the guns. Nevertheless, the people were to be seen 
at night, cating and drinking, and telling their beads, 
chanting hymns, and engaging in obscene amusements, 
fatalists as they are,—although they were in hourly 
expectation of being besieged, and every thing in 
Alexandria gave “dreadful note of preparation.” 
Probably they eee forward to the attack of the 


period of their di 
said, had still a secret 
retained his cor rane 


he had often done 
before.” He n d the officers their 
‘respective posts, ention of —— 


He succeede t of them with the ame 
feeling 5 when, s y news arrived that M. 


* ‘The Ottoman “ State Gazette,” 29nd of Rh‘amesnn (18th November,) 
‘contains the following article. * W) Sunday, the 19th of November, the 
standard taken from Mohammed Ali was exhibited in the amembly of the 
‘Multis, for the general insp af tho oiicers, it appeared that above the 
words “There is no God, but God, and Mohammed is his prophet'—the words 
‘Ali the Lion of God," were insoribed. 

Pascha places the Khaliphe All abawe the 
Fascha attritmites to himself the qualities and conduct of Ali, Both are very 
avefal j ‘and itis evident that Mohammed All Paacha, and his son Ibrahim Pasoha, 


from ous of the windows of the sepulohro of the late Sultan, thereby to give 
new oceasion for the continaed prayers for prosperity.” Sa. 





THE PASCHA AND M. THIERS—THE BAIRAM, 443 


Thiers, the French Prime Minister, had been dis- 
missed! This was like a thunderbolt upon him. 
Immediately the full truth dawned upon his under 
standing. The men in power saw that they had been 
completely duped, and that nothing was now to be 
expected from those, who, we may say, had brought 
the Pascha into this dilemma. The French papers 
always find their way to Egypt. What then must 
Mohammed Ali have thought, when the following 
extract from the speech of M. Thiers upon the occasion 
of the address, was read to him? “If the Pascha of 
Egypt submits,—that is, if he submits sufficiently 
early, he may perhaps be left hereditary possession of 
Egypt !"”—Such language from a man on whom he 
had reposed all his hopes, and at such an alarming 
crisis! His golden dreams must now have been at an 
end; his heart must have failed him, though he did 
not choose to shew it;—and the result proved that 
it did. 

‘The threatened blockade commenced on the 2ist of 
November, which happened to be the first day of the 
Bairam, the feast which follows immediately upon the 
Rhamad’ban. It lasts three days, and is always ushered 
in by the roaring of cannon. Commodore Napier 
arrived off the port in the ‘ Powerful” (84) on the 
20th; the following morning, at day-break, three royal 
salutes were fired, of twenty-one guns cach, and the 
fleet in the harbour swung their top-masts and top- 
gallant-masts up, and cross royal yards, firing at the 
same time a royal salute, and “dressing in colours,” 
and each night, the ships were all brilliantly illuminated. 
On the 22nd, the Commodore sent in a flag of truce 
by Captain Maunsell, of the “ Rodney” (92), aecom- 
panied by Lieut. Scott. These gentlemen entered 





444 COMMODORE NAPIER'S TREATY. 


the harbour without opposition, on board the Medea” 
steam-frigate, and being the bearers of the Commo- 
dore’s letters, pulled direct to the palace stairs. They 
were conducted by Boghos Bey immediately to the 
Pascha, who recollected Captain Maunsell when he 
commanded the ‘ Alfred,” and to whom he had pre~ 
sented a valuable sword,—eight years previously. He 
was well received: Mohammed Ali placed a carriage 
and horses at his disposal ; and as, during Rhamad’han, 
it is not usual for the Osmanlis to pay or receive visits 
until after the first repast (viz. at sunset), the deputation 
retired 1o the house of Mr. Larkin, the British Consul, 
where, in the geen the: had a regular audience with 


resistance. ’ m in the most friendly 


and sincere the Sultan any further 
trouble ; promising, o 
he real withdraw his ai : 
sions to Candia and the 
tercede in his behalf, and 
at the “ Sublime Porte,” to 
and, if possible, the 
‘Egypt; but that if he did not 
—if he persisted in his present course,—there remained 
but one alternativ ¢ Admirals must do their duty; 
and his final overthrow would be inevitable. They 
further admonished him to effect :—" Be wise in 
time. Now is the appointed hour; you will not have 
another opportunity. Remember Acre! Everything 
depends on your decision. You do not yet know the 
English: they would be your friends —let them! 
Trust, and fear not!” 
1 





UNFORESEEN OBSTACLES—TEMPORISING. 445 


A long consultation ensued, and several communica- 
tions afterwards passed between Boghos, the Viceroy, 
and the Commodore. At last, the Pascha pledged his 
word that he would surrender the fleet, as soon as the 
necessary firmauns arrived from Constantinople con- 
cerning him ;" and that, in the mean time, he would 
nominate individuals to proceed on board an English 
armed steamer to Syria, for the purpose of recalling 
his son. The open, manly conduct of Sir Charles 
Napier cannot be too much praised; but in this trans- 
action, his sailor-like frankness and generosity rather 
prompted him to exceed his orders, He admired 
Mohammed Ali's character and indomitable, unflinch- 
ing spirit, and evidently wished to serve him; but, by 
holding ont such expectations on his own responsibility, 
he incurred the risk of injuring his cause, as the sequel 
proved ; for the Admiral, Sir Robert Stopford, could 
not at first sanction the convention. He felt it neces- 
sary to inform the Commodore that he had been pre- 
mature ; that he had no authority to take such a step;— 
and of course the whole proceeding was nullified. But 
in a few days, after he had investigated the subject, 
and was furnished with full powers, he found himself 
in a position to make similar overtures; and believing, 
from all that had transpired, that the Pascha would 
now keep his faith, he promised to recommend him to 
the friendly and lenient consideration of the Porte,— 
provided he fulfilled ad the conditions without delay. 
‘There had been a great deal of correspondence; dis- 
patches were continually passing between the Bosphorus 
and the Nile; but the Sultan’s communications, al- 
though treated with outward respect by him, were 
always slighted ; and he invariably turned a deaf ear 
to the expostulations of the Divan. The Viceroy was 





446 MOHAMMED ALI'S OVERTURES 


now assured that such temporising would not do with 
the English ; and he began to understand that he mest 
make up his mind. He listened attentively to all that 
was said, and again declared himself willing to comply 
with the terms proposed, ‘as soon as proper pemdoe: 
were sent to guarantee the ratification of the treaty.!* 

Some doubt of the Pascha’s sincerity, however, seemed 
to be entertained by the Ottoman Ministers; for he 
had so often “laughed at their beards,” that they 
ceased to believe him capable of anything but deceit ; 
and when, on the 16th of December, Her Majesty's 
steamer “ Megiera” arrived at Constantinople, bringing: 
a letter full of assurances of submnission, as plausible 


id ee those which at various — 


Wo! 
declared that “be satisfied only by the un- 
conditional ri of the fleet, and the speedy 
evacuation of is feeling was very natural ; 
the conduct of | abitious Viceroy had hastened 

he however determined he might 
ness still regarded him as a 


prose be and now Soong was in his power, he resolved 
to punish and subdue In this he was joined by 
many who were doubtless influenced by private motives, 
Nevertheless, they were compelled to listen to the die~ 
tation of those who held the balanec, and were able to 
turn the scale. A. conference was dmmeeatehye held 
with the European } 

were called, and every indulgence that could reason= 
ably be expected, was finally granted to the Viceroy, 





TIS RELUCTANT SUBMISSION. ANT 


It was for some time reported that the Sultan would 
permit the Paschalic of Egypt to descend to one 
generation only, viz. to his son; them it was said that 
he was to be invested with the civil power, but that he 
was to give up all authority in regard to military matters, 
abandon the fortifications to Turkish officers, send 
Egyptian troops to Turkey, receiving in lieu of them 
Turkish regiments into Egypt ;—and so in like manner 
with the marine,—that he was to place his own fleet, 
as well as that which he had so long detained, at the 
entire disposal of his master. According to such a 
plan, it is obvious that the Pascha’s life would not have 
been safe one hour. In the end, the hereditary com- 
mand of Egypt was ceded to Mohammed Ali. 

During this interval of uncertainty, the Pascha con- 
tinued to arm, increase his Redif, and make prepara- 
tions for the most obstinate resistance, in case his suit 
should be rejected. He tried to stipulate that certain 
persons against whom his animosity was kindled should 
be put down; but in this he was disappointed, and his 
spirits began to flag; for a crisis was at hand, and he 
evidently felt himself at the mercy, of his enemies. He 
became indifferent to all new projects, and declared 
that “things might take their chance.” Having been 
checked in his military career, he appeared to regard 
everything else as beneath him. He was undecided, 
yet desperate. At Jength his resolution entirely failed ; 
and, urged by the advice of his seeret counsellor, 
Boghos, and the combined influence of Sir Robert 
Stopford, Commodore Napier, Captain Maunsell, and 
others, who depicted before his eyes the utter hopeless- 
ness of his condition, if he attempted to defer it, —he 
submitted to the decrees of “destiny.” This was a 
hard nut for a toothless old man to crack, and very 





448 THE IMPERIAL FIRMAUNS—YAWER PASCHA. 


difficult to digest ; but he gulped it down at once, and 
magnanimously threw himself upon the generosity of 
the four great powers. 

On the 11th of January, 1841, the Imperial firmaun, 
appointing Mohammed Ali hereditary Pascha of Egypt, 
was dispatched from Constantinople; and on the 14th 
the Pascha signified to the English, that the fleet was 
ready for sea, and would set sail “as soon a3 a person 
was officially sent to receive it.” The dates prove this 
act to have been spontaneous on the part of the Vice- 
roy,—he being at that time ignorant of the Sultan's 
final determination concerning him. The vessel which 
brought the supplementary instructions, together with 
a “ Hatti Scheriff,” same day, arrived at 
Alexandria on the 1 had, at all events, the 
appearance of go h sides; for no pro- 
mise, or even e| ad been held out by 

ad formally deposed 
Mohamined ‘Ali, and denou ced him as a rebel, would 


givings, ecolanati Ss. and intercessions, a free pardon 
was granted, and ihe Viceroy was created hereditary 
Pascha of Egypt. A firmaun was then issued, em- 
k ey to receive the Ottoman fleet, 

Admiral at Marmorice.* 
On the 9th of January, the “ Stromboli” steamer 
arrived at Alexandria with Commodore Napier, bring- 


exalted to the high dignity of a Pascha, 

signifies * fdas sodalis,""—an associated 

friend from above ;"* but we cannot suppose 

that the Divan intended terpretation to be put upon it. In considera 

tion of the distinguished services which oar countryman had rendered to the 

Porte, he had also beca made second only to the Capoudan Pascha, in command 
of tho Turkish feet. 





FULFILMENT OF THE CONVENTION. 449 


ing important dispatches for the Viceroy. His High- 
ness was at the time, walking in the garden of Signor 
Gibara, and was not a little excited at the anticipation 
of what was to follow, although he feigned an air of 
the most Stoical indifference. He hastened to the 
palace, to receive the British Envoy and Boghos 
Youssoufl. The dispatches referred chiefly to the 
Pascha’s act of submission, and the fact that the 
English Ministry could not guarantee the hereditary 
possession of Egypt to the Pascha, but that they would 
recommend it, as England did not wish to interfere 
with the administrative affairs of another country, A 
letter from Admiral Stopford to Boghos Bey, announced 
that the Pascha’s submission had been accepted, and 
referred to the arrangements for the evacuation of 
Syria by the Egyptian troops. It stated also, that the 
British Cabinet approved of the convention made by 
Commodore Napier and Mohammed Ali, The very 
next morning, an order was drawn up for preparations 
relative to the departure of the fleet; and on the 11th, 
Hamed Bey was dispatched to Beyrout, with orders for 
Ibrahim Pascha to retire immediately from Syria, 

On Sunday, the 10th, the “ Iskudar,” (or Scutari) 
steamer arrived at 3 p.m. with Admiral Walker, or 
rather Yawer Pascha, and Masloum Bey (that is, “the 
sweet-tempered”) a Moustachar, or Lord of the Admi- 
ralty, whose mission was, “to receive the fleet, and hand 
it over to Yawer Pascha,—to see Syria fairly evacu- 
ated,—and to take possession of Arabia, and the Holy 
Cities, in the name of the Sublime Porte.” In the 
evening, the Commissioners were well received by the 
Pascha, who informed them, that before their arrival, 
he had taken measures to comply with the Sultan's 
views, thereby anticipating the object of their mission ; 

VOL. Le eg 


450 THE VICEROY AND THE GiAouR! A scENE! 


but he was not a little indignant when told that the 
fleet was to be surrendered to Admiral Walker. 
“ Ab!” he exclaimed, ‘it is to be given up to Yawer 
Pascha, then !"—laying a most venomous emphasis on 
the giaour's new title; —* but you ies only to 
arrange that with Commodore Napier." 

The next day, (the 11th) a most extraordinary and 
grotesque transport evinced itself on board the Turkish 
ships, at the idea of once more returning to their 
families:—they jumped, and capered, bugged and 
kissed one another, it is said, more like Frenchmen 
than Turks; and they made the most unusual exertions 
to get the ships under weigh, lest the order should be 
countermanded, tom 

The steamers were busily engaged, during the 19th, 
20th, and 21st, in towing the vessels outside the reef. 
So much activity prevailed, that the fleet was under 
sail in ten days after the firmaun was read for its 
restoration,—one-balf of the time in which the Egyp- 
tian Admiral declared it possible to accomplish it. 
Intelligence soon after arrived, that Ibrahim had reached 
Gaza with the remains of his army, and was exposed 
to the incursions of the Bedoueen Arabs, and a division 
of the Turks, who were panting for revenge, well 
knowing his sick and helpless condition, and threaten- 
ing to annihilate him. A large reinforcement was 
immediately sent to his assistance, with money and. 
provisions ; and the Pascha’s steamer “Nile” was dis- 
patched to bring the General himself to Alexandria. 
Subsequently, the Viceroy, accompanied by Commodore 
Napier, visited Cairo, and further arrangements were 
entered into relative to future commercial transactions, 
which, if properly followed out, must, sooner or later, 
benefit Egypt, promote the cause of civilization, up~ 





THE PHILANTHROPIC AND THE BRAVE. 451 


hold British influence in the Levant, establish a free 
and safe communication with India, and contribute 
greatly to the peace of Europe. Indeed, I cannot 
conclude these remarks without expressing my admira~ 
tion of the noble, generous, and philanthropic beha- 
viour of those who were personallly concerned in 
negociating with Mohammed Ali. They displayed 
considerable talent, zeal, and discrimination ; and they 
‘not only shewed themselves ready when called upon to 
risk their lives in support of their country’s cause, but 
proved that they were equally desirous to preserve 
peace, discipline, and good order, by all the means in 
their power; and to exercise their authority, in every 
way conducive to the permanent benefit and happiness 
of their fellow-creatures. Whatever laurels a truly 
brave man may gain by his intrepidity amid the roaring 
of cannon, either in the field or on the ocean, he must 
always regret the means by which they are obtained ; 
and he will account them as nothing in comparison of 
the blessings which the objects of his benevolence 
solicit of the Divine Being in his behalf. 

From this period, the Pascha began to be heartily 
tired of the French and their engineering. - He openly 
avowed that, with one or two exceptions, he had no 
longer any confidence in them; not that they were 
wanting in talent, but because they were always ready 
to take his money, and humour his caprices, let the 
work be what it might, without pointing out to him the 
difference between theory and practice, He would not 
listen to the friendly admonitions of poor Galloway 
Bey on these subjects, because he was so wrapped up 
in the French; but he has since discovered his esi 
and a short time ago, he consulted an English engineer 
about the possibility of constructing a dry dock, which 

aa2 





452 THE CLEANSING OF ALEXANDRIA. 


his late employés persuaded him could be formed 
among the mud in the western harbour. 

As soon as his Highness was relieved of the sus- 
pense and anxiety attending the precarious state of his 
affairs, he bethought himself of the future. Judging 
that there was an end to all naval ambition, at least for 
a season, he pensioned off several of the officers, who 
deserted the Sultan, talked about reducing his marine, 
and of distributing different estates or districts of land 
among his Grandees, to be cultivated by them, (more 
properly by the disbanded seamen and the fellahs, the 
nominal owners being little better than overseers,) and 
he declared that he should henceforth devote his entire 
energies to agriculture,—thus leaving off where he 
ought to have begun! One of the chicf benefits 
likely to arise out of Sir Charles Napier's representa= 
tions to the Pascha, was the cleansing and purification 
of Alexandria, Cases of plague, dysentery, and fever 
were continually occurring, and little attempt was made 
to ascertain the cause ; but the Authorities have since 
received orders to remove all the filthy accumulations 
of the city, and to sweep away the wretched hovels of 
the Fellaheen Arabs, which, constructed as they are, 
form invariably so many hot-beds of contagion. It is 
only wonderful that the plague should ever cease. 
‘There are no proper drains, and the exhalations aris 
from the more dense parts of the towo, where there is 
little or no ventilation, are of the most noxious and 
pestilential character.* 

The British squadron, having brought matters in the 
Levant to something like order, (as far, at least, as 
they had instructions to interfere,) raised the blockade 
of Alexandria, and retired to Marmorice Bay for the 

* Bee Chapters 11, and INL; also Vol. 11. Chapter TV. 





MARMORICE BAY—RHODES—KARAMANIA. 453. 


rest of the winter. Here they experienced one very 
severe gale; two of the ships sustained some mischief, 
and for a time, were in danger of going ashore, 
Nevertheless, English seamanship reigned triumphant, 
and gave abundant proof that it és possible for large 
vessels to keep afloat on the rocky coasts of Karamania 
and the shelving shores of Libya, in spite of Tremon- 
tana gales, and Sirocco hurricanes ! 

Marmora, or Marmorice, is situated N.N.E., twenty 
miles from Rhodes, in the S.W. corner of Asia Minor. 
I passed over to the main, from the islands of Cyprus 
and Rhodes to Castello Rosso, the “Seven Caps,” 
and Marmora. The scenery is very beautiful. The 
whole coast is indented with gulfs and bays, and alto- 
gether, not the best in the world to make a lee shore 
of. Rhodes has no harbour; the anchorage is open, 
uncertain, and dangerous in bad weather. The whole 
range of Karamania is very lofty, and to a sailor 
would bave a black and repulsive appearance, and the 
Gulf of Adalia is considered the Biscay of the Levant. 
Many ships are lost there, especially if carried into the 
Bay by a strong south-westerly gale ; for there is no 
place to run for; and as it seldom happens that they 
can bring to, they go ashore. When it is blowing 
hard from the north or north-east, which it often does, 
the wind rushes down the deep ravines of Mount 
Taurus from almost every point of the compass at the 
same time, producing something very like a whirlpool, 
which nothing can resist ; whereas, six or eight miles 
out, the true wind, which passes over the tops of the 
mountains, alone is felt. The Greeks know this, and 
avoid the Gulf as they would Scylla and Charybdis. 
Marmorice Bay is what may be termed a “ blind, or 
hidden harbour :” it is encircled by high hills, and 


designed to receive all the rain of Asia | 
at certain seagons, is hurried down from the m 
in torrents, rivera, and cataracts. 


events of the Pascha's iinery, and (ola 
inary means he rose from obscurity 
and distinction. It must be obvious to all 


who alone is “worthy to receive glory, and 

and power,—who hath created all thei 

whose pleasure they are, and were created.” 

ways of the Almighty are inscrutable to us; 

are just and merciful. We certainly do live 

eventful times. The truths of Divine R 

every day being developed; the “ Lion of the 

Judah, the root of David hath prevailed ;’"—*the 

which was slain” hath unfolded to us the m, 

the Providence of God! Great things are 

coming to pass ;—the sun and the moon may be 

ened—the floods and the winds may rage—the 

and the rain may descend, and divers p 

come,—mountains may literally be removed, 

into the depths of the sea,—the thunders may 

the foundations of the earth may be shake tee 

aetna aca ecu ie cb Ca 
things in which he most delighted may be consumed — 

like chaff in the furnace—false prophets may a1 

persecutions and blasphemies may increase—and “ 

spirits of devils may go forth to summon the ru 





THE PREDICTIONS OF THE PROPHETS. 455 


the earth to battle’—we may hear of wars, and 
rumours of wars, and the kingdoms may be changed : 
—these and many other terrible things may happen in 
our generation; they haye been foretold from the 
beginning : but let us neither be cast down nor dis- 
mayed: the end is not yet;—we may rest assured, 
that “the sickle will not be put in before the harvest 
is fully ripe,” and the predictions of the Prophets have 
all been fulfilled! See the Revelations of St. John, 
especially chap. iv. to xviii—See also St. Matthew's 
Gospel, chap. xxiv. and xxy.* 


* Fuuriumnxr ov Proruzcy,—Tho following remarkable reference to the 
“present state of the Ottoman Empire, as a signal fulflment of prophecy, is ex- 
tracted from a letter of a correspondent to the Standard ;—' It is the opinion 
of the vast majority of commentators on prophecy, thet we are now living under 
‘the ‘Sixth Vial.” The Sixth Angel is now pouring out his vial upon the * great 
Fiver Euphrates,’ by which the Ottoman Erapire is symbolised; ‘and the water 
thereof is drying up, that the way of the Kings of the East may be propared,’ 

xi. 12.) Tho drying ap of a mighty river exactly describes the wasting 

of the Turkish Empire in the present day. 1 believe that the Ottoman 
Ewmpire will be annihilated in 1872, which is *a time, times, and a half,’ 
(Dan. xil. 7,) oF 1260 years from 612, when the Mobammedan ‘ abomination of 
Aesolution’ wax publicly aot up. ‘The second,’ or Turkish *woe? will then ter= 
to. (Rev. xi. 14.) I believe that the year 1844, which ix only five years 

a the present time, will be a fatal year to Turkey. It is the 1960th year 
from the Hogira, according to Mohammedan calculation. It is remarkable that 
‘the 13th of Sune, 1844, is ‘an hour, a day, » year,’ (Reg, xi. 15,) or 991 years 
and 1 dsys from the 20th of May, 1493, when the Turks took reeeasttoeple 
“This renders it probable that the 13th of June, 1844, will be a fatal day for 
‘Turkey. Teappears that the downfall of the Ottorman Empire will be the signal 
for aniversal war, and will prepare the way for the return of the Jews to their 
own land.” 





APPENDIX. 


EASTERN LETTERS, SIGNATURES, AND SEALS,* 


-Onizwrat epistles sre sometimes very curious productions; they are 
plain or ornamented, long or short, necording to the rank of the indivi- 
‘dual to whom they are written, and the object of the address; but they 
care always complimentary, It is usual to leave a broad margin, and 
not to begin for nt least two-thirds of the paper. We are informed that 
in the thirteenth century, some of the Tartar Princes of Asia, relations 
of the Eastern Monarchs, wrote letters which were from two to nine feet 
‘in length; and that Tamerlan, wishing to shew a great compliment to 
‘one of the Egyptian Sultans, sent him a letter which was seventy feetlong! 
It ix moreover recorded, that the letters addressed by the Kings of Persia 
to Louis XLV, measured three feet. In Turkey, the Authorities ase on 
tate ocensions, paper whieh is much larger; and the letters whieh the 
tan and the Grand Vizier have at different times dispatehod to the 
Crowned Heads of Europe, were sometimes seven feet long. Tt must 
‘not be supposed that these diplomatic documents were #0 verbove as to 
wer the paper, although always couched in ndulatory terms: but the 
punctilious observance is invariably paid to titles, and these are 
inguished by particular colours; the name is put in the most con- 
spicuous place, and it is considered a very marked compliment to em- 
blazon it forth in gold letters, The signature of the Sultan is called 
“ Togra,” and it is the same as we see upon the coin of the Empire. 
‘The Orientals use no locks, but seals, We learn from history that the 
ancients sealed every thing which appertained to the State, as well as 
‘to wealth: (see Esther, chap. iii.) and to give up the seal," was to 
give up all power :—it was the custom of the Doges of Venice, when 
they commenced their reign, to wed the Adriatic” by means of a 
ring:—and in the present day, to “ lose a ring,” more especially a 
signet-ring, is considered a yery bad omen. 
* Vide Vol. I, p. 922, and Vol If p. 5. 





458 APPENDIX. 


AN ACCOUNT OF MOHAMMED ALI'S DOMESTIC CIRCLE,* 


Mohammed Ali, bom in 1760, at Cavala, brought with him from his 
native place one wife, Amina A’h'anwm -+ she bore him four ebildren, of 
whom two, viz., Toustoun Pascha and Ismael, are dead; and two 
living, viz., Ebrahim Pascha, aged 52 years, and Nazly KWaxum, aged 
46, widow of the Defterdar, Mohammed Bey, who has no children. 
Amina Ki’anum, now dead, is described os baring bn Se 
woman, to whose good temper and invariable kindness Mohammed Ali 
‘owes much. As the Mohammedan law allows four wives, and nume= 
-rous concubines, Mohammed Ali, at various periods, married three other 
-wives, now living, vis., 2. Shan Shafn K/'anwn, a Georgian slave, who 
bore him four children, all dead; 3, Nourac Ahanum, also a Georgian, but 
no children; and 4. Selwy KW’alfay KN anum, a Georgian slave, mother 
of Zenab KBanum, now sixteen years old. Mohammed Ali ieierat 
children by Shan Pezent KH alfa, from Abassa, near Georgia; he ix fa~ 
ther of Said Bey, now 20 years old; by Manthas. Fa Tanda: 
he has Hussein Bey, fifteen years old; by Shan Shacher Ki'alfa, a' 


cnssinn slave, a boy of twolve years called Aly Bey 5 by Zeehe Kian 


Georgian, he has Halim Bey, eleven yearsold; by Zelphia Ki'alfa, Intely 
raised tothe rank of foarth wife, and who resides at Alexandria, he ix 
father of Iskander (Alexander in Turkish), 0 called from the city of his 
Birth; by a Georgian slave named Zipha AN’ alfa he had «gon. 
Inmmed Ali, born in 1836, during his visit to Candia, and he is snid to 
have other slaves ‘His Harem is arranged on the most 
ficent, yet most ‘ly style; there are between 90 and 100 of the most 
Deautiful slaves to be found in the East, and twelve musicians and twelve 
dancers, all girls under 15 years of age, who are taught, the former to 
play on every sort of instrument, and the latter to dress in the 

of avery nation, and to dance according to the costume. ‘There are at 
oust 200 females in this building, which adjoin his palace, besides 
between forty and fifty eunuchs, and various Amb menial slaves 

Won bags the Dives and hrs Ue Harenoea of epee eee 
with asilver wand is in waiting to receive him, and upon his appear- 
‘ance, announces bis arrival tothe Assembly. He then marches through: 
a double row to his scat, where he is complimented and féted ; a female 
secretary, tanght to write well and to keep secrets, attends him to write 
his dispatches; and oecasionally, others read tronalations of the most 
remarkable articles from the London and Paris papers.’ At night, while 
ho sleeps, half of the fair slaves are in continual waiting, and three are 
a eae e a= lanl eer esate aa 


* See Vol. f. p. 404, et. KA enum signifies e 
$ Kiteife wom Mistrew oF Superior Sore, legen: ate 





APPENDIX. 459 


and flies. ‘The utmost regularity snd order sre observed, and punieh- 
ments, such as flogging—even death by strangulation or drowning, are 
inflicted, itis said, by the black eunuchs, Curiosity im looking out of the 
windows, &c., is onc of the greatest offences, His eldest son, [brahim 
Pascha, has two wives in Cuaito, but no children by them; by three 
favourite slaves he hns three boys,—Achmet Bey, 17 yours; Mustapha 
Bey, 14 years; and Ismael Bey, 13 years old. There are also fifty 
slaves in his Harem, 

Mohammed Ali had twelve brothers and two sisters, all of whom are 
dend; by one of the latter he has three nephews—vis., Ist, Achmet 
‘Pascha, aged 38, who went to Yemen as Commander-ia-Chief; and 2d, 
Ibrahim Pascha, aged 36, lately General of « division in Syria, and 
who was to go as Governor to Yemen when his brother had subjognted 
it fully; and Sd, Hussein Bey, who was placed at the head of the 
monopoly of spirits. ‘Those three brothers have also children, 

‘The second son of Mobammed Ali, vis., Toussoun Pascha, left at the 
time of his death a boy, now 35 years old, named Abbas Pascha, who is 
also father of several children. The third son, Inmacl Pascha, burnt to 
deuth some years ago in Sennaar, left a widow, the sister of the Cadi of 
‘Cairo, appointed in 1835 by the Porte, A relation of Mohammed Ali, 
named Toussoun Bey, left two daughters in the Harem, besides a third 
married to the Admiral Osman Noureddin Pascha, who deserted. The 
son of the master whom Mohammed Ali served when a boy, was subse~ 


quently married to his daughter (dead without children), and is now 
known as Moharem Bey, who was made Governor of Alexandria. 

It may be a satisfaction to persons who commiserate the fair prisoners 
of the Harem, all of whom value the castoms of Europe, to learn that it © 
isa frequent practice to give them as wives to officers, and that many 
an orison is uttered for that blessing, as they then become important in 
their husbands’ houses. 


THE EGYPTIAN CURRENCY.* 


‘The colas of Egypt are of comparatively uncertain real value: the 
material of which they are composed being thin and flimsy, they are 
constantly deteriorating, The coins of Constantinople are seldom met 
with, and there are others which are only nominal, being referred to 
for convenience-sake in mereantile and Government transactions. 

Goup Preces. Piastres. 
Mahmoodieh of Stamboul « 2 
Khdyrééh of Stamboul . . 40 
Half Khdyréth do, : oi 2 
© See Vol. 1. p. 391. 








460 APPENDIX. 


‘Piastres. 
Venetian Sequin. . . . HS 


A Pound sterling, necorting tothe rate of exchange abut in 


. . x 


Pinstres. English. 
« 15 to 16 about 4s. Se 
Pinstro=40 Foddh’a or Parahe—that is - + about St, 
‘Half Piastre=20 do. do. ‘mud there are eleo pleces of 10, end 
pieces of 5 parahs. 

‘These silver coins contain ai feast half their weight of copper, and 

‘they are so light, thnt they are easily blown away by the wind. 
Pias. Parahs, 
‘The Mahboob is a nominal sum of 3 et Being the value of 
‘The Real . 2 108 old Mahboob and 

‘A Parse or “Kees” is» nominal sum of 500 Piastres, from 
to Gl. English, 

A“ Kasneh” means a sum of twice chis amount. In 1831, the Parse 
‘was estimated nt about 7/. 34.5 consequence of the great deterio- 
ration of the coin, its actual value is now considerably reduced: it i 
only estimated at 5é. 

‘Memo—On the 16th of January, 1848, the people were represented to 

«be overwhelmed with losses sustained since Mohammed Ali’ new 
‘Tariff of the Mint wns issued. (Sce Vol. EI. p. 195,) The Egyptian 
money became ideal only, because the merchants refused to pay in any 
other currency than that of Constantinople, and according to (he eaxme 

rate of exchange. From this it appeared that the only gainers were the 
Saruafs, the mouey-changers, and the merehants, 


WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 


‘There is not any standard for these used indifferently » but it is fixed 
in Tefereaise to Use asture of te sherchinndlec, ‘The weights in common 
use are chiefly the following: 

1,—The Rotal or Rut'l, cotimated at about 15} 28 avoirdupois, This 

Sune miner powed, aud. It Goa a 
racl a 





APPENDIX. 461 


But a Rotal of Spun Cotton is equalto . ‘180 drachmm, 
A Rotal of Polished Amber contains » 156 
And a Rotal of Syrian Silk contains - 2p 
2—The Oock’ckah, Ocka, or Oke, is equal to about ry Ths. favoirdu 
pois, and it contains 400 drachina, 
But an Oke of Coral or Transparent Amber is reckoned at 420 
drachma, 
3.—The Chunta’r, or Cantar, is equivalent to 100 Rotals, This an- 
swers to var cw, but it contains only sbout 984 Ibs. avoirdu- 


pois. 
But the Ckunta'r also varies according to the commodity, from 
‘100 Rotals to 130; inereasing first by 2, then to 5, then to 10, 
20, and 30. 
The smaller weights are used chiefly for jewels, gold, silver, and 
other articles of value, ‘They are, 
The Ckum‘hhah (or grain of wheat) equal to the G4th part of a 
dirh'em, the 4th of a Ckeera't, and about § of a grain English. 
. The Hhab’beh (or grain of barley)—the 48th part of a dizh’em— 
the 3rd of a Ckeera't—and equal in commerce to an English 


grain. 

|. The Ckeera’t, or Corat—4 Ckum*hbabs, 3 Hhab’behs, the 24th 
part of a Mitcka’l, and nearly 3 English grains. 

The Dirh’em or Drachm is equal to from 47} to 43 English 


‘The Mitcka’l (or the weight of a Deens’s) is equal to a Dmchm 
and abalf, {. e. about 72 English grains. 
The Woockee'yeh, or Wekich (the ounce) is equal to 12 drachms, 
the 12th part of a Rotal, or pound, and 576 English grains, 


Tan Mrasvam or Lexova axp Lano. 

‘These are chiefly the Peek or “Dira’a:” it is of three kinds. 

1. The “Dirn'a Bel'edee” (the cubit) 225 inches, This is used 
for measuring Linen and other Home manufactures. 

2, The“ Dira'a hinda'zeh,” about 25 inches, This is used chiefly 
for measuring Indian articles. 

Istambo'lee,"” about 264 inches. This is used for 

‘measuring European manufoctures. 

‘The “ Fitr’* is the apace spanned by the extension of the thamb 
and the first finger. 

‘The “ Shibr” is that spanned by the extension of the thumb and 
the little finger. 

The “Fedd'an” was equal to about an English acre and one- 
tenth formerly ; but now, not quite an acre. It is about “as 
‘much as two oxen may plough ina day,” and this is vubdivided 
into 24 parts. 

5 





462 APPENDIX. 


‘The “Mal’ackah,” answers to our league, and measures about 25, 
or 3 English miles. fn travelling, people talk of Aowrs, not 
Aistance. 


Maasonss or Quantirr. 
‘The “Ardebi” is the only one of consequence; butit varies in differ- 
ent parts of Egypt : its capseity is equal generally to 5 English bushels; 
—from that to 8, 
The “ Wey'beh” is the sixth of an Ardeb. 
‘The “ Roob'a’’ is the fourth part of a “ Wey'beh.” 


THE PRICE OF PROVISIONS, &e, AT ALEXANDRIA 
AND DAMIETTA. . 


Beef of good quality, at per ocka 
Seek pea 
‘The largest and best sheep, (alive) each 
Others scoing othe ine, fom 1 dalle o 
15 Fowls. . O 
10 Geese. . 
30 Pigeons “ 
120 Qunile . . 
“Fish, one kind with another, per ocka e 
‘oummer—900 = 


Grain, | one kind with another, but chiefly 
and Barley, as there are no Oats in Egypt, 90 
ockas 


Mocha Coffee, 
The White Chews of he county, Locka, 


ec=cookoo wp Cererrorennowoof 
NOCCURSE™ SS mrococscoceSoune 
B8cKkoooos 8 comtncesreerpetl 





APPENDIX, 


‘Tallow Candles, the ocka 4 ? 
‘The best Wax, do. the ocka . . 
Soap, the rotal & z 
Cotton of India, which is contraband, 1 ooks . 
do. ‘not contraband do. - 
Cotton of Egypt, whieh has not paid the ay, 
Focka 
Cotton of Egypt, whish has paid the daty, ax « 
Most of the above are cheaper in the Interior. Dates, He 
&e, may be had almout for nothing. 
A House with accommodation for ten persons, per 
annum, é from 30 to 
“A Greck Servant; per month . | ri ‘ 
An Arab Servant, per month =. from 1 wo 
A good Cook, per month 4 
An Arab Drogueman who ne three ianguages, 
‘per month from 8 to 
A female Housekeeper about 
One who has alreaily been tanght Housekeeping 
A black Slave, (ifabey,) L 
Do. (anadul,) 
A Horse of good quality 
A Dongola Horse. 
tme Arabian Horse from Mekka 
‘A sound and serviceable Ox 
A Buffalo with milk 


eevccossscessssses seoo 
eoocscocssooesososs SoS 


Do. --Gont-with young 
Furniture, and wearing apparel my. be ee at moderate 
prices, 


ARTICLES IMPORTED INTO EGYPT.* 


From England.—Chiefly conls, machinery, metals, Glasgow shawls 
in imitation of those from Cashmere, and hardware. 

From France.—Plain and figured muslins, calico, woollen cloths, 
velvet, crape, and mirrors, 


*# See Vol. 11. p. 25994, and Chap. 1. 





464 APPENDIX. 


From Germany.—Glass and earthenware, wine, and Uqueary, watches, 
clocks, stright eword-blades, nnd fire-arms, 

From Asia Minor, and Greece—Cherty pipe-tubes, are ee drugs, 
figs, and other dried fruits, wine from Cyprus, and timber from Candis. 


turbans.) amber mouth-pieces for pipes, fars, hides, tallow, 
female slaves from Georgin and Circazsia* 

From Syria—Chiefly tobacco fom D'gebaile and Latikinh; silk, 
both crude and manufactured, especially scarfs for the waist, eatton r= 
tale, glam bead leather, soap, and timber; and, Instly, coals and 


aes the North-West Coast of Africa: viz, Tripoli, and Tunig— 
‘The celebrated Red caps, called “Tabodsches,"=-also the white “ Ber= 
‘n008,” oF military cloak, made of fine wool, camels’ hair, and cotton,— 
blankets, flannel, and other woollen garments, vom by the Bedbacense 
and yellow moroeca slippers. 

Boo Sat a otlne parts of India.—Rich rilks, cotton sneeniaieee 
tures, ond muslins, elegant Cashmere shawls, and spices from Ceylon. 

eee Yemen.—Coffes, spices, and perfumes, dragt, and valuable 


pees ‘Abyssinia, vial D’geddsh and Mckkah.—Slaves, thinocerus= 
horns, gums, drugs, and ostrich feathers; besides «an immense number 


*Scavenr m Tonxny.—t0n this subject I will merely remark, that the 
Sultan's mother was a slaves the mothers of his children sre all slaves: 
Khosrew Paschn was n slave: so was Halil Pascha, the brothersin-lnw 
the Sultan; so was Hafiz Pasoba, and so were many of the most distin- 
grishod men, and the most fortunate Indies in the Empire. Slavery im 
Turkey is in a very mild form, Even the black alaves are seldom or never 
ill treated. Before a man makes # purchase of a slave, be invariably sake hie 
or bor, Are you content to live with me and to serve me? If so, I aball give 
‘you so many clothes, and eo much pocket-money, and after serving me faith 
fully five or six years, you will have your liberty ; whereas, if we cannot agree 
so long, I shail sell you to some other person with whom you can agree.’* 
‘Should the slave object to remain with his master, he himself has the power to go. 
to the market, and declare he wishes to be sold. ‘The master never opposes this, 
‘ond it proves such a check upon him that he seldom dares even to scold hin 
slave, These remarks apply to black slaves; the white slaves, if young, are 
rdopted as the children of the house, and ate trented exnetly like the other ohil- 
dren. If girls grow up handsome and acoomplished, they ind husbands to thele 
Liking among the Highest in the State, They are not obliged to enter any Harem 
except it plosse them, and if ill-treated, of discontented, they also ean insist 
pon belay ald.—AMalte ‘Times, This is quire true; and it is intended that 
slaves should be protected by the law ; but unfortunately it is in the power of the 
Great to evade the law 1 





APPENDIX. 465 


of Negro daves, ebony, ivory, and gold-dust, which are brought by the 
caravans, which regularly pass to and fro, between Sennaar, the Fezzan, 
Darfodr, and Contofan, 


ARTICLES EXPORTED FROM EGYPT." 


‘To Constantinople and Smyma,—Negro and Abyssinian slaves, 
(among them some eunuchs,) Mocha coffee, hhennél, and spices, from 
the East ) a variety of Indian goods, and cotton. 

To Syria—At present, not much; but chiefly rice, flax, grain, and 
cotton. 

To Arabis.—Considerable supplies of corn, and comestibles gene- 
rally; cotton, and some manufactured goods from Europe. 

To the Upper Country: i. e. Sennudr, and the districts adjacent.— 
Almost every thing they require—hardware, fire-arms, carpets, gun- 
powder, soap, cotton, woollen and silk manufactures, a 
ends, &e. 

Po Barope rN ostrich feathers, natron, gums, spices, senna, 


indigo, cotton, rice, and grain. 


COPY OF A LETTER ADDRESSED TO THE BRITISH CONSUL 
AT BEYROUT BY THE BRITISH MERCHANTS THERE. + 


Beyrout, Sune 30, 1841. 

Sir,—We, the undersigned British merchants, have the honour to 
‘acknowledge the receipt of your communication of the 24th instant, 
requesting a report upon the working up to the present time, within 
‘our observation, or to our knowlndge, of “the commercial convention, 
of 1838." 

‘The new tariff of import duties, though not exorbitant, is prejudicinl 
to the interests of British merchants, since the duties paid by tho 
‘subjects of other nations are lower, and to British commerce, in yro- 
portion as the new duties exceed the old, the loss not being compensated 
for by the abolition of any monopolies, 1s the produce of Syria Ins, 


* Sea Vol. J. p. 214—315 ; and Chap. iv. and vii, See also Vol. II. p. 58. 
80, ot 20g, aloo p. 110. 


an 





466 APPENDIX. 
i satin msi deo eva eee 


Naispene ‘of Syria, ns compared with the imports re only ey 
limited, ly the 
principal Sari is silk, of which a small portion i 
the country, and the remainder exported. As this is an article of very 
expensive production, and rarely produces a profit proportionable to 
the labour and risk of cultivation, it is natural to suppose that the new 
duty of 12 per cent. imposed upon it will be the ennee of loss to the 
grower, who cannot be remanerated by the price it yields, The eulti- 
sation of silk in Kurope having been greatly extended, tlie 
qquilities of Syrian silk are neglected by consumers, who now only bly 
ubem at & heavy reduction on former prices. ‘The silks of Syria now 
yay an export duty of 12 per cent. in litt of } per cent, mm 
paid, which in an equal proportion will diminish the resources 
country in paying for its imports, or, in other words, have restrictive 
influence on ita foreign commerce, particularly with Grent Britain. 
‘These remarks do not apply to ilk alone, tnt equally to all articles 
‘of Syrian production and export, 
Tt is well known that Syria hns latterly furnished grain only sufficient 
for its consumption daring a port the year, and is contequently 
r from other countries for the 
in all countries) can be paid 


the interests of the country and its commerce with other and 
eee 
the eapabilities of the country ean xeareely be aut 

of all imposts on grain—particularly the production of the country— 
would be attended with the most signal benefit to the commercial re~ 
sources of Syria, 

Since the new treaty was put in execution, in the month of March, 
it has had the effect either of suspending sales, or of foreing importers 
to submit to the loa of the difference betwixt the old nnd new dation, 
which, consumers refusing to pay, cone ey fall upon Brot 
imported. In exportation it has ded tranenctions, to 
Frejadice of both merchants and snr he nr se 
amelioration of the present system, ax nvither the 
‘exporter can support the mew export dutics, in wh eo of 
prices of Syrian exports In Europe, ( 

In addition to the disadvantages of an increased rate of import and 
export duties, we believe smuggling is carried on to a 
extent, and a lange portion of the British tmde being now in the hands 





APPENDIX: 467 


of natives, who consider it neither a crime nor even disreputable to be 
engaged in smuggling, or using means to xwoid paying the duties ac- 
cording to the new scale, they have an advantage over the fair dealer 
beyond what many would consider possible. 
In conclusion, we may remark, that British merchants in 
suffer from this state of things, because the subjects of other nations 
who have not accepted the new tariff, ean buy and sell on conditions 
which would leave a loss to the British trader. 
‘We have the honour to be very respectfully, Sir, 
Your most obedient humble servants, 
‘To Niven Moore, Faq., Her British Majesty's 
Consul, &e,, Boyrout, 


ae 


TRIBUTE TO THE MEMORY OF CORNELIUS BRADFORD, Esq. 
LATE CONSUL FOR THE UNITED STATES, AT LYONS, IN 
FRANCES 


Thave stated that Mr. Brdford died at the Latin Convent in Jerusalem, 
and was buried within two hours after his death by the monks, who, 
under the pretence thnt he had become a convert to the Romish ered, 
altered the inscription which [ and three other genUemen placed on the 
tombstone which we erected to his memory on Mount Zion, and which 
was as follows — 

Memorise 
Coxwent: Baaororo 
Americse Consulis Lagdunt 
Galliarum, Boatoni orti 
Virtutibus egregii anno XX 
wtatis «use in Sancti Civitate 


‘Those who visit Jeruealem will find it set forth, that he “ became a 
convert to the true faith, and renounced the errors of his seot!" From 
an intimate acquaintance with Mr, Bradford's character, | here record 


# Vide Vol. 1. Chap, b, and Vol. IT. p. 47. 
HH 2 





iv fides tek Ray ae 
non, is now 87 years of age, and belongs to the ancient family of 
“Scha’ab,” Ho bears the title of “ Scheriff of the Haouran,” and antil: 


Maya an set oe temperament. < 
made presumptive heir to the Prince of the Mountains, ax 
eee descend by orier of primogeniture; but the 
declares who shall succeed him, The See ee ath 
are popular. They arc comparntivcly distinguished for * 
and acquirements, and are amiable, The Emir Amyn te 3B 
age: he is pacific and beloved; but he has no influence. Besides the 
direct descendants of the Prince of the Mountains, there are several 
young men, nephews and cousins, who inhabit and govern the 
which besr their name. They are the Emir Haldhir of Habidir; 
Emir Beschir of Broumanha; the Emir Amyn of Broumanha ; the 
Emir Febrés of Solima; the Kmir Jamael of Solima; the Emir 
ned'bin of Habidir; the Emir Mustapha of Chibania; and the 
‘Youstout? of Botmasia, \te Logaea Ss bow sata 
five, 90 terrible has been the civil war lately raging. ‘The old Emir 
retired to Malta during the late Kgyptinn campaign, and one of bis 
reigned in his stead: but he too has recently been superseded, 
Druses having themselves petitioned the Porte, that they might be — 
under the immediate authority of the Sultan, Omar Pascha, a German, 
who embraced Mohammedanism some ten years ago, has therefore | 
appointe? Governor of Lebanon:—he has arrived in the country 


* See Vol. 1. p. 445 and Vol, 1. p. 28, 110, and 185, 
‘ 





APPENDIX. 469 


taken up hig residence at Deir-el-Khammar: go that henceforth these 
mountains will form a distinct Puschalic—i.c. if any Turkish Raler 
can maintain his position, which at present, does not seem likely to be 
the case. 





THE LATE WAK IN CANDIA® 


‘The following is an extract from an address on the part of the Cretan 
exiles to thelr countrymen, dated Crete, Feb. 17. 1841, old style>— 

“In the interval of the last ten yenrs, we have seen and suffered 
much, both Christians and Turks. We have seen nearly introduced 
into Crete the system of monopoly which has rendered the Egyptians 
the most wretehed people of the earth, We have seen fifty-two of our 
most distinguished and worthy fellow-countrymen executed at one time, 
when, in the most peaceable and lawful manner, we met together to ask 
a remedy for these evils. We have seen put into effet forcible con- 
scriptions in Crete, and nearly all the conscripts were sacrificed in 
the war, to gratify the insatiable ambition and avarice of the Satrap of 
Egypt. But why attempt to relate what is indescribable?" This 
appeal was not made in vain. 

Memoranda, May 14, 1841.—There are 40,000 resident Turks in 
Crete, and 120,000 Christians. These all desire to be under English 
rule, which is of course, impossible, They envy the good order and 
happy state of the people of Cerigo. 

The whole island is in a state of revolt. Mustapha Paseha, the 
Governor, is detested, and the inhabitants wish to throw off the Turkish 
yoke : they say that they have escaped the tyranny of one Despot to be 
at the mercy of another! 

Subsequently, Tahir Pascha having been sent with a strong force to 
put down the insurrection, a8 soon as he arrived, he issued a proclama~ 
tion calling on the people to submit, offering a free pardon to all who 
quietly laid down their arms, But the inhabitante knew from past 
experience, that he was not to be trusted. Proclamations were likewise 
issued by all the European Consuls. ‘The British Consul’s proclamn- 
tion was couched in the following terms — 

“The undersigned British Consul, feels it his duty to apprise the 
Christians who have taken arma, that he has received the commands of 
Lord Ponsonby, the British Ambassador at Constantinople, to the fol- 
lowing effect:—*That the British Government having contracted an 
alliance with the Sublime Porte, cannot countenance any act orattempt 


* Seo Voll II, p. 143 and 144; also p. 90 and 207. 


470 APPENDIX. 


schtoh iba ett aast saat autaeg ae E 
‘the insurgents will not expect to receive any countenance from the — 
British Government in their resistance to the Sultan's command" 

‘The proclamations of the other Consuls were less Inconic. That of | 
‘Tahir Pascha was dated the 23d of May, and allowed the | 


ton the south coast of Sphakis, which was of course 
stoutly resisted, and driven back with great Jom. ‘The inhobitents then 
took to the mountains, where they defended themsclves with great 
bravery until the autumn, when they were under the necessity of 


making terms, | 
‘The situation of the unhappy inhabitants of Candia may be collected 


‘waste the territory occupied by the insurgents, he burned the houses 
iia horn ie whch ad fri in with hie, ted 


Auagaburg: 

from the tenderest to the most mature ago, necaived from 

soldiers)” and itasks, “ Can it be possible that Christian 

Jeast, that Prussia or Austria, will suffer such atrociti¢s to be committed 
‘ander the sanction of their names? Will they suffer a Christian popu- 
lation of 100,000 souls to be butchered, and a fertile island reduced to 
fa desert ?"—24 July, 1941. 


OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS RELATIVE TO MOMAMMED 
ALI AND HIS OWN TIMES, 


THE PROCLAMATION ISSUED BY COMMODORE NAPIER 
AS SOON AS HE ARRIVED OFF THE COAST OF SYRIA. 


* 

“Grent Britain, Austria, Russia, and Prussia, with the Sultan, have 
decided that the rule of Mohammed Ali shall cease in’ Syria, and Uhawe 
been sent here with an adexnced squadron to. nesist dn throwing off the 
yoke of the Fascha of Egypt. Syrians, you know that a Matti Scheriif 
has been issued by the Sulten, securing the lives and property of his 





APPENDIX, 471 


subjects, which is in full operation throughout the Turkish territories; 
in addition to which, the Allied Powers hare engaged to recommend 
to the Sultan to render your condition happy and prosperouk, Inhabi- 
tants of Lebanon, you who are more immediately under my eye, Teall 
‘upon you to rise, and throw off the yoke ander which you are grouning. 
‘Troops, arms, and ammunition are daily expected from Constantinople y 
and in the meantime, the Egyptian ships shall no longer assault your 
coast. Soldiers of the Sultan, you who were treacherously Id from 
your houses to the burning sands of Egypt, and have been since trana- 
ported (o Syria, I call upon you, in the name of the Grent Powers, to 
‘feturn to your allegiance: I have placed two line-of-battle ships close 
to the Laxaretto where you are encamped: put yourselves under a 
“protection, and should a single soldier of the Pascha approach you, he 
shall be annihilated. All past events will be forgotten, and your 
arrears of pay discharged by the Sultan, a8 also the arrears of any 
soldier who may join the Sultan's standard. 

“ Syria “ Cuantes Naren, Commodore,” 

‘The British residents {mmediately took refuge on board the Commo- 
dore’s ships’ When Ebrahim heard that the English vessels of war 
were before Beyrout, he wrote 10 Suleyman Paschn (Colonel Selves) 
‘the following words:—*1 have no commands to give you. I know 
your bravery, and your devotion to all my family. I will only observe 
to you, that we have but one ditch more to leup over, and that on the 
other side of this ditch, there is repose,” 

‘The following intercepted letter* from Thrahim Pascha to Mohammed. 
Ali, will be read with interest ;— 

“TRANSLATION, 

““Ejub Agah yesterday brought me the letter of Your Highness, which 
I read and understood fully. On the same day, the 34 Rhamadh'an, 
Sclim and Ismael Paschas, with Goubran Rffendi, urrived here. ‘Tho 
“basna” being low, I was unable to make the payments. 47,000 
‘purses are indispensable, and you must send them to me.f Selim and 
-Inmmacl report, that neither the ‘artillery nor the cavalry regimen have 
any barley, and {t is impossible to procure any, because the pensunts 
conceal every thing. ‘They will neither contribute nor give anything ; 
the infidels of Saida have ati them insolent. 

“We are in want of many things ; Syria will be no longer tenable, 
if the gen is not soon free, Affairs stand thus:—Eleven days ago, had 
Your Highness ordered me to withdraw hence, 1 should not have done 
so. At present everything has changed. Our infantry would be good, 
‘but the Syrians are worth nothing; I had allowed them to leave me, 


* Seo Vol. IL. p. 99—106. ot #eq.; alao Chap. ¥. 
+ A purse ie about 5. sterling, in round sombers, consequently the sum re~ 
quired by Ibrahim, would be 245,000, : 





A72 APPENDIX. 


after ol ‘them to render up thelr arms. The Arnauts being in 
Teague with some seducer, demand either their poy or discharge. 
have allowed them to retire, The sume withapartof . .. . We 
are alone. ‘The rains and cold are disagreeable. The bivouacks are 
‘worth nothing, J cannot hold my present position till the end of the 
Rhamadb’an ; but in ease Your Highness should desire to abandon eri 
‘Schan (Syria) temporarily, { shnll not be able to take away the cannon. 
Ons enemies receive assistance from Constantinople and Malta Ships, 
soldiers, and ammunition arrive daily, and they over-run the const of 
Syria in as many hours as [ could do in days. It is therefore 

notto come here with the fleet, for the English would take it before our 
eyes. Tho Consuls have given me to understand that Acre will be 
bombarded; bombarded perhaps, but taken, not yet, Every there 
in in excellent order, Mahmoud hns requested mattresses, and I hive 
scat him 340—for, to use in my position here, they would be useless, 
From the frontier there is nothing new. Maghium Bey is at Aleppo. 
Ahmed Bey will withdraw as soon as the Ottoman troops advance. 
‘The season is unfavourable to our enemies, who are not very numerous 
Mnghinm supposes that at Aleppo there are both spies and people to 
seduce our soldiery, and that the vulgar are blind. et ame may be 
said of Damaseus.’" 


STATISTICS OF THE BOMBARDMENT AND CAPTURE OF 
SAINT JEAN D’ACRE, 


‘The fortifications and outworks of St. Jean D'Acre extended some 
distance into the sea, forming therefore what is termed, “a salient 
angle," and consequently exposing two long ranges or lines of aa 
the more southern defending the Bay of Caipha, that to the north= 
west commanding the beach towards T’sour. The?*salient angle”? 
itself was defended by 9 guns of large calibre; the batteries were 
formed of sand-bags, and there were tmverses of fascines and sand on 
cither side, to prevent the enemy's shot from enfilading the works = 
there was also a ensiemated battery. 


NAVAL FORCES EMPLOYED. 
South Division, 
1.—Mookuddimay-y-hive—A Turkish chip—74 guns—Rear Admiral 
Wal Amen killed, 3 wounded. 
2—The Wasp, brig—16 guns—Commander Mansel. 5 seamen amd 





_ = 


APPENDIX. 473 


Royal Marine wounded severely. Foremast severely struck and 
disabled: obliged to be sent to Malta to refit, 
3.—Benbow—72 guns—Captain Stewart. Was severely struck by « 
fourteen pound shot in the hull, but fortunately, not a man was either 
killed or wonnded. 
4,—The Edinburgh—72 guns—Captain Henderson. Hnd her mizen 
mast shot through, by which Commander Hastings, Mr, Dayis, master, 
‘Mr. J. Plimsoll, nssistant-surgeon, and Midshipman H. Boys, were 
slightly wounded, together with one seaman, one sergeant of the Royal 
Marines, and one boy. Two seamen, one royal marine, and one 
drummer were killed. 
5.— Havard, sloop—18 guns—Commander the Hon. C. Elliot, One 
Bie marine, and one boy slightly wounded, Mizen-mast severely struck, 
6.—Castor, frignte—36 guns—Captain Collier. The heavy fire from 
‘the batteries during the time the Castor was taking her position, did 
“considerable damage: her bowsprit was severely struck ; her masts and 
spar wounded or shot away, and her rigging so much cut that she was 
obliged to go to Malta to refit. Subsequently to the engagement, 
Captain Collier had the misfortune to have his leg fractured, and re- 
-ecived other hurts from the explosion of shells, in a magazine in the 
‘town, on the 6th, by which many persons were killed. Four seamen 
Xuilled, one seaman and two royal marines severely, and one royal marine 


7.—Carysfort—26 guns, heavy 32 pounders—Captain Martin. None 
‘killed nor wounded, 

‘8.—Talbot—28 guns, 32 pounders carronnades—Captain Codrington, 
Lieut. G. B, Le Mesurier, killed. Mr. H. Seiaatt is ‘mate, wounded 
slightly, and one seaman wounded severely, 

9.—Guerriero—Austrian frigate—46 gons—H. I. H, the Archduke 

Frederick, One man killed and two wounded. 

10.—Medea—Austrian flag-ship—60 guns—Rear Admiral Bundiera, 
‘One man killed, and four wounded, 

11.—Lipsia—Austrian corvette—20 guns. None killed nor wounded. 


The North-west Division. 
1.—Revenge —76 guns—Cnptain Waldegrave. Had her fore-top- 
gallant yard shot away, 1 soamon, 1 drammer killed + 3 seamen 
‘wounded severely, royal marine slightly. ‘The Revenge in the eurly 
of the action, remained under weigh as a reserve ; about 3 o'clock, 
abe joined, and took an ndmimble position next the Powerful. 
2—Powerful—84 guns—Commodore Napier. Had her rigging very 
‘much cut. 1 scaman wounded severely ; 2scamen and one reyal marine 
‘slightly. 
3-—Pringess Charlotte—104 guns— Captain Fanshawe. “Bearing the 
‘fag of Admiral Sir Robert Stopford, Commandce-ia-Chief, Had her 





474 APPENDIX. 
rigging very auch cut. 1 scaman killed. wapiap ese 


the upper deck—Nono killed nor wounded, 
to have fired no less than 14,083 dbs, yoni 6406 he 
‘shot—None killed nor wounded, 

he Pique ge—CopainRoxer—-None ile norwounda 


‘Stream Supe. 
‘The Steam ships continunlly shifted their positions during: 
and threw in shot and shella, whenever they saw the most 
points for doing exccution. It is rather remarkable that not one of 
four Steam ships had a single man either killed ous 
mortars—Commander W. a 
Henderson, 


of the Phenix, the vessel continually shifting her position, a 
stances required, Hie wollen Atm 300 wand ee 
played throughout, the greatest coolness of demeanour, and the 
daring and unshaken courage. ‘The Phgynix left the morning. 
action, with dispatches for England. 

4, The Gorgon—2 large guns—4 mortars—Captain Henderson, 
‘was supposed to have been tis he 
the explosion of the powder magasine. 

‘The action took place on the 3rd of Nov. 1840, The firing eo 
menced at half-past 2o’clock, .a.—becume general at 3 r,t, 
magazine exploded at 4o'clock, p.s.—by which 1,700 men, 50 do 
30 camels, 12 cows, and some homes were killed, The 
south division ceased at 5 v. 
three quarters past 
and at § .of, the allied troops landed, and took possession, Th d 
force had 18 killed, and 42 wounded, ‘The Egyptians had 2,500 killed, 
and 3,500 were taken prisoners: the amount of wounded could not be 
ascertained. 0 morta. tn sor ond vody_07 bra ll pees, 
Benes ie In atore, and rendy—97 

and 97 mortars. Arms, ammunition, shot, shells, stores of all ik 
military chest, hospital stores, and 5,000/, in specie.” 

‘The following is stated on good authority, to have been the 
mae by Mohammed Ali, in September, 1833, to the Buropean Cons 
‘on the subject of his disagreement with the Sultan Mahmoud :— 

* See Vol. 1. p 434, ot weqe 
5 





APPENDIX. 475 


“ Gentlemen,—The Kings of Europe are very enlightened, and say 
that they have long desired the tranquillity of the people in general, 
and the prosperity of the human mace. But when they refuse to recog> 
nize my right to independence, they do not keep up to their professions ; 
cand this is the proof:—Whilst I an: not independent, seeing that L am 
richer, stronger, more powerful than the Sultan—his States and mine 
remain in presence, and ander arms, All Epirus, Anatolia, Karamanin, 
Syria, Egypt, the Isles, all Turkey, and all Arnbin, ure’ in fuct, a prey 
to inguietude, to political shocks, expenses and uneasinesses of every 
kind, which ruin the unfortunate inhabitants of these countries, in cone 
sequence of the fear with which I inspire the Sultan, who trembles be~ 
fore one who always developes his snares. ‘The forees of the Sultan are 
well known, and have long been appreciated, If it were to bappen hat 
the Pascha of Bagdad declared war against him, He could not but submit. 

“ As for me, if L were to put my foot on the Sultan's territory, call his 


shall I pot see be 
‘same, and Mussulmaun as before? They are not ignorant that 
Greece, whose extent did not exceed a Talari when she first rose, suc- 
ceeded in the space of six years; nnd spite of Viziers and Paschas, and 
the head of such numerous armies, held the Sultan in cheek; and that, 
if Thad not taken up the cause of the Jatter against the Greeks, they 
"would have conquered even to Constantinople,—whilst, without the in- 
tervention of the Three Powers, { should have subjected all Greece, of 
which Nauplia alone resisted my arms. On the other hand, what have 

I not done for civilisation in Egypt? Have 1 not given her 
troops, and a war-marine organized on the European plan? Have € 
not introduced the Arts and industry, the manufactory of kill and eot- 
‘ton, of copper, and # thousand other trades, which were unknown be- 
fore me, and of whieh, at present, to the general surprise, the products 
rival European iniuatey ? Sint Taw eecaed te and 
completing, in my States, vessels, guns, telescopes, and every thing ne- 

* 


ot 

“Let them tell me, then, why the European Monarchs interfere in a 
foreign cause? When France marched and conquered 
it—when France seized upon Constantine, and so many other cithes— 
‘who interfered with these disputes with the Barharian States, although, 
1s being of the same religion with the Algerines, it was permitted ux to 
fancy ourselves interested in their cause, or, at Teast, it was possible for 
us to nid them, defend them, and, at least, render their submission more 
dificult for Frenee ? 

“What, then, is the reason of the conduct of the Sovereigns of 





476 APPENDIX. 


Europe? The interest for the tranquillity of the people, and a desire tor 
spare the effusion of blood, say they. A ie!—na evident Het Tm the 
war with Algiers, was it water or blood that owed? At the taking of 
Constantine, was it water or blood that flowed ? pe | 
pendent, Turkey cannot be peaceable or tranquil, and the Sultan 

‘self will see, little by little, his States pass away from him under the 
power of one or the other, until He shall be completely | 
hie throne; and E shal] remain an indifferent spectator of Hix ing 
—whilat, independent, I should be bated iiieeccated | 
‘tranquil,—He and I—his people and mine. I 

on diem hf yyy dy ad 
amy soldiers at liberty for manufactures and agriculture. My first la~ 

weigh upon the 


THE CORRESPONDENCE WHICH TOOK PLACE 
MOHAMMED ALI, AFTER THE DEATH OF 
THE SULTAN MAHMOUD, 


LETTER OF THE GRAND VIZIER KHOSREW PASCHA To. 
THE 


VICEROY OF EGYPT. | 

‘As was stated in the letter addressed to Your Excellency some days 
ago, His Highness the most magnificent, the most formidable, and the 
most powerful Sultan, Abd’al Med’gid Khan, having ascended the Impe- 

rial throne, which Divine predestination had left vacant, the wisdom 
with which He ia naturally, sche isa to Him, at the moment of his 

accession, the following 

“The Governor of Egypt, Mohammed, Mi Pascha, had committed some _ 
acts ealealated fo indispose my glorious father + various events came to 

‘pat, and preparations were made, Nevertheless, to preserve from ali 
attempts the welfare of the people intrusted to. me by Providence, with — 
the sole view of sparing the clusion of Mussulinaun blood, Lmean to 
forget all that is pasty I will pardon that Governor; confer on him a 


* Seo Vol. 1, p, 414, ot ooqs 





APPENDIX. ATT 


decoration similar to that worn by my other Viziers, and concede to him: 
the Province of Egypt, and the hereditary right thereto to his desoend- 
‘ants, on condition that he fully conform to his duties of obedience and 
submission.” 

However unworthy I may be of the honour, having been raised to 
the post of Grand Vizier, and owing to the existence of former reln- 
tions between Your Excellency and me, I heard, with lively satisfaction, 
the language of His Highness. I immediately wrote to the Senukier 
of the East, Hafix Pascha, to suspend the march of the Imperial army; 
and the fleet, which was to have left the Danlanelles, has been detained, 

‘The decoration conferred on you by the Sultan, and the firmaun 
which is to accompany il, are now preparing. 

In the meanwhile, Akiff Effendi, Secretary of the Council, and one 
of the High Functionarics of tho Sublime pated has been dispatched to 
‘acquaint you in detail with our Sovereign's desire. 

If God deign to assivt His Highness, all the Provinoes of the Km- 
pire will enjoy perfect tranquillity under the protection of his sceptre. 

Now, as the accomplishment of that hope depends on the union of Mus- 
sulmauns, I specially adidress you this letter, in order that, guided by 
your natural prudenee, and docile to the Supreme wish, you forget all 
‘the past, fully accomplih your duties na a Vaseal, withdraw the troope 
which are found in your camp, and think no more hereafter but of ac- 
cord and union—Dated July, 1839, 


LETTER OF MOHAMMED ALI, WRITTEN TO THE EURO- 
PEAN CONSULS, IN REPLY TO THE COMMUNICATIONS 
MADE TO HIM BY THE AMBASSADORS OF THE GREAT 
POWERS IN CONSTANTINOPLE, 


“In the course of two days, Akiff Effendi will set out for Constanti- 
nople, He will be the bearer of a letter of congratulation and submis- 
sion, on my part, to the new Sultan Abd’al Medg’id. I intend also 
addressing to Khosrew Pascha a letter, in which 1 will represent to 
him— 

“1, That the late Sultan Mahmoud bad made me, at the time, 
through the medium of Sarim Effendi, propositions of a much more ad- 
vantageous nature than those addressed to me now, by His Highness; 
for he then offered me the hereditary reversion of Egypt, as well as of 
Syria, Sayda, and the Sanijak of Tripoll. 

2, That, under existing eiroumstances, I demand tho hereditary 








478 APPENDIX, 


ib sist. bahar Hts bir day | 
‘niona T now possess, as T mentioned. S 
“3, That, on this condition, and Lf cha Poneivifveats wee geal 
faith towards me, I will be the most faithful of the servants and vassals, 
‘of His Highness, and [ will defend Him when, and against whomsoerer, | 
He pleases. 
“ T intend writing to Constantinople to the above effet. * a a 
“Twill make no mention, in my letter to the | beri! 
ficet, from a sense of propriety; but I beg of you to tell the 
tives of the Great Courts at Constantinople, that I never 
tion of keeping or using it with n hostile object agninst the 
formally pledge myself, on the contrary, to restore it the 


1s 
tnople. As regards the Ottoman Admirals, those who should be afraid: 
to return to Turkey, will bo allowed to beep ft 
of the same Monarchy. 

“<W7hen the Balan shall have acceded tomy praye;nd hat Ra 
Pescha shall have been removed from the direction of affhins, I will not 
hesitate, on the first invitation of His Highness, to proceed to Constanti | 
nope; bat alone, and on board 1 stenmer, and with the sole 
offering in person, my homage to my Sovereign, and of | 
Him my services. 

‘mally, I declare to you, that if my propositions be not attended 
to, I shal! not wage war, but merely maintain my present position, and 
wait." —Dated July 1839, 


REMONSTRANCE OF THE ALLIES WITH MOHAMMED ALI 
IN 1839. 


On the 18th of October, the Consuls of the Four Great 
Prussian Consul being abgent) had an audience with the Viceroy, 


has placed itsclf, shall remain strangers, Is it possible that | 
who STE eee 





APPENDIX. 479 


the Porte, of whith Your Highness ns co dexferously taken advantage, 
have given you superior strength, which Your Highness can abuse. 
You enn at the present moment, deprive the Porte of still greater terri- 
tories, for there is no one to offer opposition. Your Highness may keep 
the Ottoman fleet, and the Allies of the Sultan will not employ foree to 
regnin it ; for its destruction would be the probable result of the eonflict. 
Your Highness may then, if you will, feel sutistied with the conviction, 
and in the abuse, of your material force. But if Europe is hostile to 
you, whither will that lead? For even supposing that Europe dd 
nothing to combat Your Highness, still she holds agninst the Pascha a 
formidable weapon—that of hin fatare 

“ What does Your Highness desire? You cease not to repeat that ull 
your actions have no other end but that of establishing the fatare 
fortunes of your family, Do you then believe that the personal hatred 
with whieh you have been animated, up to the present time, aguinst 
Khosrew Pascho, can be a good foundation for the establishment of 
‘your family? Have you ever seen anything durable based on a senti> 
ment of this nature? Your Highness hat endeavoured to approximate 
Egypt wo Europe by your Administration, by Arts, and by Commerce. 
Hence you should have learned, and you will learn, more clearly, that 
the situation of Egypt is necessary to the regular existence and dum- 
tion of some political position. Do not, then, deceive yourself with 
the superiority of your strength ; for it is insufficient to give Your 
Highness that future influence which you would establish, Even if 
the Sultan were to grant Your Highneve all the concessions you de 
‘mand, they would be insufficient to secure your position; for they will 
not be sanetioned by Europe. 

“ Had Your Highness, as Chief of the revolted Mussulmauns, founded 
anew Empire an age go, it might have existed in that stateof separntion 
and {solation which then rendered Europe but little attentive to events 
of such a nature; but Your Highness has devoted even your own life to 
‘the estabtishment of another order of things; and you have need, under 
"pain of vanishing like a metcor, of the sanction of Europe, who will 
not sanction anything that does not leave untouched the principle of 
the Sultan's ignty. 

“Tf Mohamimed Ali rests the hope of a successful resistance on the 
conviction, which he seems to entertain, of the difficulty that the Powers 
would have in sdopting in concert active measures against him, be 
should perecive that they would easily agree to refuse their sanetion to 
an order of things that they found too onerous for the Porte. It io 
never difficult to take a negative measure.” 


‘Tho Consuls of Russia and Austria were together during this declarn- 
tion; and those of England and France were separate. The 
roplied, that he referred the decision of his affaine to the High Powers, 
in whose justice he bad implicit confidence, and that this declaration 





480 APPENDIX. 


had been probably caused by a J 
Khosrew Pascha, who was the first to solicit him to bring their affixirs: 

@ termination between themselves, and without foreign mediation. Fle 
‘then ordered that the Turkish copy of thie correspondence should be given 
to the above cuantiousl. Osama. ‘The firstis Khosrew Pascha’s, and is 
dated the Sth of September, and the Inst sentence of this must be the 


answor, dated the 15th of September, by which he demealiet eho 
one or two Ulemas, Dignitaries of the Empire, to be their judges. 
‘The following are the documents referred to in the above:>— | 
ee eee OF A DISPATCH WRITTEN BY KHOSKEW PASCHA TO 
MOMANMED ALI PAsCHA, DATO THR QWth GRMARICLAMIN, nl 
(Sth of September, 1839.) 
“ Thave had the honour of receiving Your Highness’s dispatch, and 
of making myself acquainted with its contents, It is filled with 
reproaches ; Your Highness’s bidding us to retire from affairs, and 
advise you necordingly, 1 write this to Your Highness to testify the 
sincerity of our friendship towards you of this God is our witness, as 
Sito Hak wade notesherialn soy fueling ea 
opinion you hold of me is not just, and 


haye filled the whole carth, I feel no anger towards you;— 

rather the Emperor's concern. All these words have, 

Mussulmauns and Europeans, done injury to tho name of the wie 
Mohammed Ali Pascha, and as ‘ every individual should be devoted to 
the cause of his own,’ that has greatly astonished me in Your 

and has even angered me, Since the Capoudan Paschn is gailty, 1 ix 
hat reasonable to wish to retain the fleet, and we did not think that it 
was, You have heard the words of the Capoudan Pascho, and if you 
had sent the Imperial fleet it would have been a suitable and benignamt 
act, As for what regards my removal from affiirs, Your Highness | 
knows very well that, for many years, I kept retired in my own house, _ 
Providence, notwithstanding my own unwillingness, desired that 1 
should become Grand Vizier, This, then, is the effect of Divine Geace, 
and opposing it, would have been opposing the will of God, whom T 
feared, and accepted the Visiriate accordingly, in the persuasion that 
God would be my aid. Now, my Lord, I earnestly entreat you to par 
don this fault of the Grand Visirinte, ince for me it was a destiny of 
God, by the very reason that Twas one of the first of Islam. I thank 
the Almighty, that with my last breath, [shall find myself'in the favour | 
‘of the Prophet, and in the service of our Benefactor the Emperor, who 
is His Succeasor, and whom Iwill serve with seal. All this is perfectly 
well known to Your Highness, and you may feel displeased at the rope~ 





APPENDIX. 481 


tition, May God give to each of iis aecording to our hearts, and in the 
mean while, may we strive with zeal and devotion to fulfil our duties.” 


2.—PRANSLATION OF 4 DISPATCH WRITTEN BY MOHAMMED ALI PARCIA 
To KHOSKEW FASCHA, DATKO TiS Sth ov menu, 1255, 

“ Thave had the honour of receiving Your Highness'’s answer, ean- 
taining exhortations which would persuade us to render ourselves 
worthy of our Sovereign's kindness, the only end contemplated by Your 
Highness, who, in repeating the maxim * that every individual ehould 
be devoted to the cause of his own,' has not made a quotation which 
harmonizes with the present state of things. 

“My Lord, you know, from the subject, the correspondence, the 
whole of this business, from its commencement to the present time. T 
am astonished, that after having brought the business to the point 
where it now stands, you now have a feeling of patriotism, for you are 
not ignorant that the late Sultan, of blemed memory, deigned to pro- 
mise me Egypt and the Paschaliks of Saida and Tripoli in perpetuity, 
which T refused toaccept, entreating His Highness to grant me, in cons 
sideration of mg services, a perpetuity in all the Paschaliks and Sand- 
jaks which were under my administration, Having become Grand 
Visier, you offer me Egypt nlone, when a sojourn for eighteen months 
as Pascha of thi country, should have taught you how far hospitality is 
respected among the Arals. Nevertheless, without regarding the 
friendly relations of forty years, and the glory which 1 have acquired 
under the ansplees of the Sublime Parte, you order me to seize His 
Highness the Capoadan Achmet Pasohs, who is a comrade, and who, 
having had a difference with one of his comrades, has taken refuge 
with another (Kapou Yoldachou). Instead of making use of the latter 
‘asa means of reconciliation with the refugee, by the employment of 
mild measures, you give me such an order, and in other forms you ad- 
‘dress the Superior Officers of the fleet, and perhaps others beside. 1 
have indeed been deeply offended, aud in conformity with the maxim, 
‘part refertur,’ { had declared to do nothing more, Without 
on what you did, by saying in the dispatches you wrote to me after the 
‘return of Akiff Effendi, that you were on the paint of sending to me 
‘Saib Effendi when the Five Ambassadors sent you a note, you gave the 
afiiir quite 8 different tum. The fact is, that several years ago, the 
Powers told us to settle our affairs ourselves, In your last letter you 
say, that to be agreeable to our Lord the Prophet, we ought, to our last 
‘sigh, to labour for the glory of his suceessor, our beneficent Emperor, 
and for the welfare of our nation. I have no doubt of the trath of your’ 
words, and God knows that my belief is the same; but your actions and 
‘words do not correspond, and I think that what has beon published by- 
the journals relative to us, ander the cireumstances, will suflice on this 
head. Be that as it may, since you assure me that you are not swayed 

YOu. I. 11 








482 APPENDIX. 
by any feelings of snipe oh ae eve 


Sublime Porte of Eternal Duration, the purity of 

‘Your Highness, and my sincere friendship for all the Great Dignitarie 

af Sn Nol crithont any ater eee 

intermingled. It follows that we are both animated 

ing®, but thut, according to appearances, our principles do gree. 

‘To terminate our difference by a just decision, and to remove | 
‘Mussalmaun 


! 
| 
| 
] 
al 


you may, by the peace and repose you restore to Mussalmauns, deserve 
the culogies of great sod small ands cae inal od ver 


Mnssulmaun nation. This will be a measure adapted 
cumstances, and a service alike to the altar and the throne—s, 
which Your Highness so ardently desires to perform," 


OFFICIAL DISPATCHES RELATIVE TO THE 
EGYPTIAN CONVENTION.* 


rs “ 
 Foreign-Office, Nov, 14, y 

My Lords,—The Four Powers, wha together with the Porte, sigaed 

the treaty of the 15th July, have decided to recommend to 

through their Representatives at Constantinople, that if 

will submit prompély to the Sultan, and consent to restore thie | 

fleet, and cause hix troops te evacuate all Syria, the district 

the Inland of Candia, Arabia, and the Holy Cities, notwithstanding the 

decree by which the Sultan bus declared Mebemet 

the Government of Egypt, he will be re-established in that Paschalic, 
“ In excention of this resolution, it is decided by the Representatives: 


ean, 
“must therefore signify to Your Lordships, that Her 
9 See Vol L, peda, et eqs alao p. aad, 





APPENDIX. 483 


that instructions be given to Sir Robert Stopford, ordering him to eend 
immediately to Alexandria, an Oficer competent to make the following 
communication to Mehemet Ali :— 

“ The Officer encharged therewith, will ask, on his arrival im Alexan- 
dria, to have a conference with Mehemet Ali, in the presence of Boghos 
Bey, in order to make to Mchemet Ali & communication on the part of 
‘Her Majesty's Government, 

“When admitted, he shall make known to Mehemet Ali, that the 
British Government has ordered him to inform him, that if he submits 
fmmediately to the Sultan, and delivers into the hands of the Officer on- 
charged with the above, a written obligation to restore, without further 
‘delay, the Turkish fleet, and to reeall immediately his troops from Syria, 
from the district of Adann, from the Island of Candia, from Arabia, 
and from the Holy Cities, the Four Powers will recommend the Sultan 
to re-establish Mehemet Ali in the Paschalic of Egypt. 

" The Officer will further explain, that this recommendation on the 
part of the Four Powers will only be given in case of Mchemet Ali's 
submitting promptly, and that the Officer has received orders to remain 
‘three days in Alexandria, to receive the decision of Mchemet Ali, and 
convey it to Constantinople. The Officer in charge must put in writing 
the preceding communication; and after having rend it to Mehemet 
Ali, he must deliver to him the sheet upon which it is written. 

“Tf at the expiration of the three days, Mehemet Ali should consign 
to the Otficer the above mentioned written obligation, the Ofticer will im- 
medintely leave for Constantinople, taking it with him; but the Officer 
must demand that the document in writing on the part of Mehemet 
Ali, be delivered to him open, in order that he may inform himeelf of 

ity contents, and must refuse to take it with him to Constantinople, 
‘should he find that it does not contain the snid obligation. 
“ PALMERSTON." 
«To the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty.” 


2 
“ Prinoets Charlotte, St. George's Bry, 
Beyrout, December 2, 1840, 

“ Highness, am very sorry to find that Commodore Napier should 
have entered into o convention with Your Highness for the evacuation 
of Syria by the Egyptian troops, which he had no authority to do, and 
which I cannot approve or ratify. 

“ Your Highness’s Envoy, Abdel Amin Bey, bus consulted with the 
General commanding the troops, ax to his best manner for proceeding 
to Ibrahim Pascha, 

“The General having good reason to suppose that Thrahim Pascha 
had left Damascus, (a great part of his army baving left it several days 
‘since, going to the southward upon is ee Ei ltt pr 

1 





484 


a safe conduct for Your Highness’s He 
therefore returns to Alexandria, having done all in his power to exe- 
ute Your Highness's instructions. 

“TL hope this letter will reach Your Highness im time to 


andria to the coast of Syria, for the purpose 
Egyptian army, Should any of them arrive here, they will be ordered — 
to return to Alexundrin. 
“1 hope thie hasty and unauthorized convention will not occasion 
any embarrassment to Your Highness. It was no donbt done from am 
semble motive though ander imted view of the stake of stirs 
Syrian; but it will not lesen my earnest desire most readily to 
aay measure which may tend toa renewal of that amity and. focl= 
ing which I trust will hereafter subsist between England and Your 
Highness, the terms of which, Iam happy to hear, are now in w state 
of progress with the Allied Powers. 
“T have the honour to be Your Highness’s most obedient servant, — 
‘". STOPFORD, Admiral 
“ His Highness Mchermet Ali, Pascha, &o,, Alexandria.” 


—| 
3 | 
“Princess Charlotte, at sea, off Cyprus, Dec. 6. 


“ Highness,—I have now the honour to transmit to Your Highness, 
by Coptain Fanshawe, the Captain of my ie fragt 
from the British Government, in the name of the Four Powers, tomain- 
tain Your Highness in the Puch hap bane 
within three days after the communication made to you by | 


at | 


“Let atone oa Highness to take these terms into your seriogs 
consideration, and [implore the Almighty God to impress upon your 
mind the benefit you will bestow upon a distracted country, bya early 
compliance with the decision of the Four Allied Powers. 

“Captain Fanshawe is fully authorized to receive Your Highness 
final decision, 

“IT have the honour to be Your Highnes’s most obedient humile 
servant, “Rouser Sroreoay, Admiral 

“To His Highness Mchemet Ali, Pascha, &e., Alexandria” 


4 
“70 HIS RXCELLENCY ADMIRAL IR ROBERT STOPFORD. 
* Alexandria, 17 Chewal, 1256 (Dee. 10, 
“Jam well pleased to receive your friendly and benevolent. 
—the first by Hamed Bey, on his return from the mission an whi 
had been dispatched to our son Ibrahim Pascha; and the second | 





APPENDIX. 485 


Captain Fanshawe, oi eer phan ce ese Pa STN? 
came express and presented it, with official dispatches. According to 
the instructions of these, 1 have written in haste a petition” (or suppli- 
cation) “to the Sublime Portes and, seeing that their contents were 
made known to Your Excellency, I have, agreeably to their counsel, 
left it open, and I have ulso added to it translation. I hope that my 
speedy submission will find grace in the eyes of the Grent Allied 
Powers, and draw their good will towards me, through the aid of Your 
Excelleney, whose intentions are so kind. 
“ Assuring Your Excellency of my friendship, Iam, &e., 
“Monasomp Au." 


5. 
“ PETITION ADDRESERD TO THE SUDLIME PORTE, THROUGH THE ORAND 
‘VieteR. 
“ Alexandria, 17 Chewal, 1256 (Dec. 10, 1840.) 

“The English Commodore Napier, being exrived before Alexandrin 
on the 22nd of November, declared, in writing, that the Great Powers 
bad interceded with the Sublime Porte, whereby the Government of 
x ‘pt was to be accorded to me hereditarily ; and he made a convention 

¢ return of the Imperial fleet, lying in the port of Alexandria, and 
te return of the Egyptian army to Egypt, stipulating that the nid 
fleet be prepared for sea, and that measures be taken for the evacuation 
by the army, Several interviews and a correspondence took place on this 
business; and after having accepted the convention, whilst we awaited 
‘thearrival of a Magnanimous Order from the Divine Man,” (the Sultan) 
“we willingly exchanged the convention. Immediately, His Excellency 
ourson [brahim Paschn, was written (o, to withdraw the Egyptian troops 
‘from Damascus, where they were concentrated, and, moreover, to depart 
into Egypt; also, by means of w steam-boat furnished by the said 
Commodore, an express to that effect was sent to Syrin. Subsequently, 
by letter from Ibrahim Pascha, received overland, of the date of the 
lst day of Ramazan," (23 of November) “it has become known with 
certainty, thnt the entire army had on the 3d or 4th Chewal,” (26th or 
27th of November) “left Damascus for Egypt. 

“ Now, according to an officinl dispatch of Flix Excellency Sir Robert 
Stopford, the English Admiral, dated before Cyprus, the 6th of December, 
‘he had received a dispateh from the noble Lerd Palmerston, with ine 
structions which, we understand, are to obtain the restitution of the 
Imperial fleet, the evacuation by the Egyptian troops of Syria, of 
Adana, of Candia, of the Provinces of Arabia, and of tho Holy Places, 
and the both of my submission to the Sublime and Eternal Ottoman 
Porte. I, therefore, with my soul and with all that I submit 
myuolf to my August Sovereign and Master, to whose yl 
recur, and of whom I entreat pardon; and, that submission being ne- 





436 APPENDIX. 


‘cepted by miews Urbia,” (the Roman Consular title: 
tans of Byzantium—in Turkish, Shehriyar,) "1 shall gratefully 
edge it as the fruit of the protective benevolence: 

and prepare the flect for its return. 


Trice toe cynsaabell by the Reredan Ga 
“With the aid of the Superior Being, I now present my prompt sub 
mission to the knowledge of Your Highness, te lay it ut the feet of o 


favour, Andall depends upon the Sublime Dispositions: = | 
* Mowuspers AL” 


‘The following is x correct copy of the "Hartt 
?" and an account of the ceremony which preceded its. 

ment; as given in“ Tax Taxes” of Noy, 25th, 1899, oe om 

‘We have received letters from our Constantinople a 
the 7th inst, inclusive, enclosing # copy of # Haiti Scheriff reed om 
3rd inst, by order of the Saltan to the Ulemahs and Grindees of 
‘Empire, and in the presence of the Greek and Armenian | 
of the Foreign Ambassadors to the Sublime Porte. 


dividual and personal Liberty, and the contributions for the 
the State in men and money. Henceforward, the lives and 

ail the subjects of the Ottoman Government, withoul dévlinetson of 

ligion, axe declared inviolable. Soe | 
equitable revenue are to supersede the grinding, eruel, and 

system that has, during the last century and a half, prevailed. | 


“It had been well known for some time,” say our Constantinople 
lettory, tht the Ministers were engaged in drawing up a fundamental: 
law, which His Highness meant to bestow on his subjects; but no oue 





APPENDIX. 487 


was aware of ite principal basix” “ However, on Thareday last," enys, 
‘one of these letters, “after an extraordinary Council, Council, which was held at 
the Porte, and at which were present all the Members of the Divan, 
the Scheihh-ul-Islam, and the principal Ulemahs, the reforms contem~ 
plated by the Soltan began to be spoken of with more certainty; and 
public curiosity was excited to the highest pitch, by a few fhets which 
transpired in the course of the day. On Friday, a new Couneil met at 
the Sublime Porte, under the Presidency of the Sadrazam, at whiak it 
was resolved, that the ceremony of the promulgation of the new law, 
jould take place, with all possible solemnity, on the Sunday following — 
is, on the 3d inst.) 
‘Accordingly, on that day, all the persona who had received invita 
ions to attend, repaired, at 8 o'clock in the morning, to the extensive 
j of Galhaneh, which is contiguous to the Imperial Palace of Top 
Kapou, where they took their stations under numerous tents, prepared 
two days before, by order of the Sultan. 
_ “At the hour appointed for the ceremony, the Representatives of the 
Friendly Powers residing in Constantinople, arrived in succession, ac~ 
companied by their Secretaries of Legation, and their First Dragomans 
in splendid carriages, which the Government had placed at their 
disposal. The Chief Interpreter of the Divan, Ali Effendi, the director 
ofthe Ottoman Moniteur, Salvet Effendi, and the Head ‘Translator of the 
Porte, having been instructed to do the honours of the place to the 
Ambassadors, conducted them to the pluces appointed for them in the 
Imperial pavilion, which had been decornted with great splendour for 
their reception. The Prince de Joinville, who was also invited, was, on 
his arrival, ushered into a separate apartment, next to that occupied by 
the Members of the corps diplomatique, 

“ Shortly secon cerics of ‘Long live the Emperor,’ proceeding 
from the ranks of the numerous detachments of troops stationed along 
‘the plain, announced the approach of the Sultan, who was dressed in a 
splendid uniform, and wore on his head an aigrette of diamonds. 

“ Among the distinguished personnges invited, were the Patriarchs of 
the Greek, Catholic, Armenian, and Schismatic Armenian Churches, the 
Grand Rabbi, a deputation of Saranfs, or Catholic and Armenian 
bankers, deputations from all the “esnafs,” or corporations, the Directors 
of all the Administrations and Departments of the Government, &c. 

“In the centre of the plain, the Principal Member of the body of 
‘Ulemuhs, the Kaxaskiers, the Cadis and Mollahs, were drawn up, each 
according to his title, and to the rank he held ; and next to them, but in 
another line, bee and the seven Generals-in- 
‘Chief of the 

“When all were eee Riza Pascha, Mabeyn Maschiri, the Muschir 
of the palace, handed the Hatti Seheriff of His Highness to Redschid 





APPENDIX, 


“Prayers sppropriate to the circumstance, were afterwands recited ; 
‘ond numerous salutes of artillery, fired from all the batteries of the 
Capital, added to the éclat of that remarkable day, without example in 
the annals of the Ottoman Empire. ‘ 
Grand Vizier, who, accompanied by Halil Pascha, Redschid Pascha, 
and Fethi, came to compliment him; they then entered the apartment 
ocoupied by the diplomatic body, and offered them their civilities; and 
at noon, the Sultan returned to his palace, where he had eonyoked an 
Assembly of the Paschas of the first order, to whom here commended, 
in the most formal manner, the strict execution of the organic laws: | 
which he intended shortly to promulgnte. All those High Fumetion=— 
‘aries, a8 well a6 the Kazaskicrs, then repaired in procession to the _ 
Holl where the Mantle of the Prophet was deposited, and took - 
oath of allegiance, in the presence of the Schcikhoul-Islam. 

The Representatives of the Friendly Powers received: 
official translation of the Hatti Scheriff of Hix Highness, ” 
by a note, in which the Ports invited them to transmit it to their 
spective Courts.” ~. 

We sball now proceed to lay before our readers, at length, this im 
portant document — - 

“ Every one knows, that in the beginning of the Ottonmn Erapire, 
the glorious precepts of the Khoran and the laws of the Empire were 
held as rules always revered, in consequence of which the Empire in- 
creased in strength and greatness ; and all ite aubjects, without 
tion, attained the highest degree of welfare and prosperity. 


“ After the ceremony, the Prince de Joinville was waited upon. | 


abiding by the Holy Code of laws, and the regulations that arose from 
it, changed the welfare and strength into weakness and poverty, ‘Thus 
it ix, that a nation loses all its stability, by ceasing to observe its laws. 
‘Thevo considerations have constantly presented themselves to oar 
notice; and since the day of our accession to the throne, the public 
‘weal, the amelioration of the state af the Provinces, and the relief of 
the people, have never ceased to occupy our thoughts, Bearing in 
mind the geographical position of the Ottoman Eupize, the fertility of 
its soil, the aptitude and intelligence of its population, it is evidemt, 
that by bringing into operation efficacious means, we may obtain, by 
the assistance of God, the object we hope to insure, perhaps in the | 
space of a few years. ‘Thus, fall of confidenee in the Almighty, end re~ 
Jying on the intercession of our Prophet, we deem it necessary to feck, 
by new Institutions, to procure to the States which compose the Ottoman. 
Ewpire, the happiness of a good Administration, wera | 
These Institutions should have three objects in view frat, 00. gun 





APPENDIX. 489 


rantee to our subjects, perfect security of life, honour, and property; 
secondly, the regular levying and asscasing of taxess and thirdly, & 
regular system for the raising of troops, and fixing the time of their 
service, 

Por, in truth, are not life and honour the most precious of all bless« 

ings? What man, however averse his disposition to violent means, oat 
withhold having recourse to them, and thereby injure both the Govern- 
ment and his country, when both his life and honour are in jeopardy ? 
If, on the contrary, he enjoys in this respect full security, he will not 
stray from the paths of loyalty, and all his actions will tend to increase 
the prosperity of the Government and his countrymen. If there be 
absence of security of property, every one remains callous to the voice 
of his Prince and country, No one cares about the progress of the 
public good, absorbed us one remains with the insecurity of his own 
position. If on the other hand, the citizen looks upon his property ax 
secure, of whatever nature it be, then, full of ardour for his interests, of 
which for his own contentinent he endeavours to enlarge the sphere, 
thereby to extend that of his enjoyments, he feels every day in his 
heart, the attachment for his Prince and for his country grow stronger, 
‘as well as his devotedness to their cause. These sentiments in him 
become the source of the most praiseworthy actions, 

“ The assessment of regular nnd fixed taxes Is a consideration of vital 
importance, since the State, having to provide for the defence of ite 
territory, can only raise the means necessary for the maintenance of 
thearmy, by contributions on the people, Although, thanks be to God, 
the inhabitants of this country have Intely been freed from the eurse of 
monopolies, formerly improperly looked upon as a source of revenue, a 
fatal practice still remains in force, although it cannot fail to give rise 
to the most disnstrous consequences—it is that of yenal corruption, 
known under the name of  Htizam."  Aceording to this system of civil 
and financial practice, a district is abandoned to the arbitrary rule of 
‘onc individual, but too often notorious for his rupacity, and the most 
cruel and most insatiable disposition; for, should this farmer of the re- 
venue not bea virtuous man, he will have no other eare but that tend= 
‘ing to his own advantage. 

“It becomes, then, necessary for every member of the Ottoman 
Society to be tuxed according to a fixed rate, in proportion to his means 
and cireumstanees, and that nothing further should be exneted from 
‘him, and that special laws shoald also fix and limit the expenses of var 
army and navy. 

“ Although, we have already obscrved, the defence of the country is a 
most important consideration, it becomes the duty of the inhabitants to 
supply soldiers to that object—it becomes essential to establish laws to 
regulate contingents which each district is to supply, according to the 
urgency of the moment, and to reduce the time of the military service 





490 APPENDIX: 


to four or five years; for it is at the same time doing an injustice, and 
ey rehotas ee porary iulecse n! 
regard to the respective populations of from one, 
Siete ee than they perp teta it i ‘it is also 
redueing the to despair, and to 
of the country, to retain them all their lives in the service. Tn short, 
without the different luws, of which the necessity hrs been shown, there 
Bs asithorstrengtb,viches bernie, nor Scqely ie ioe aneeat 
and it has to expect these blessings as soon ns these laws come into 


operation. 

“ Tt ia therefore, hin fatr tbe ae of every inion bal 
peal pee Divine Laws, fier matere inquiry and | 
examination; and till a regular sentence has been pronounced, no one 
shall have it in his power, cither secretly or ymblicly, to pot an indi< 
vidual to death, either by poison, or by any other means, 

“It im not permitted to attack the honour of any individunl, unless 
beforea Court of Justice. 


“These Imperial concessions extend to all our subjects, 
religion or sect they may be, and these advantages they 
ain ET: 

Titan Sul woot Go the Shee oe 
life, honour, and yand to 4, according to the text 


of our Holy Law, 
the other subjects, they are subsequently to be regulated, « 
the decision of the enlightened Members of our Council of Justice, | 
‘Members of whieh will be inereased aecording to necessity, ‘which te'to. 
we shall appoint. Our Ministers and 

nitarics of the Empire will assemble to establish lawe for the 
of life and property, and the assessment of taxes, and every Member of 
these Assemblies shall be free to express his opinion, and to give his 
advice, 
“Laws concerning the regulation of the milltury service will be des 
bated at the Military Council, which will held its meetings at the 
palace of the Seruski 

“ As soon ns one law Is settled, in order that it may be for ever valid, 
ic shall be presented to as and've shall hosour i with ou saetion 
and to the head thereof we shall affix our Imperial seal. 

As these present Institutions have for object, to cause the Religion, 
Goverament, Nation, aud Empire to re-flourish, we solemuly bind our- 





APPENDIX. 491 


selves to do nothing in contravention to them, Asa pledge of our pro- 
mise, it is our detemulnation, er having them deposited in the Hall 
which contains the Glorious Mantle of the Prophet, in presence of all the 
Ulemuhs and Dignitaries of the Empire, to abide by these Institutions in 
the name of God, and then order the Ulemahs and Granilees of the Empire 
to take the same solemn oath. After that, he who shall violate these 
Institutions shall be linble, without any regard being paid to his rank, 
consideration, or credit, to corresponding punishment to his faults, after 
‘once it has been made clear. 

“A penal eae shall be drawn out to this effect. 

“As every Functionnry receives at present a suitable salary, and as 
the pay of those who are not yet sufficiently rewarded, is to be subse~ 
quently inerensed, rigorous laws will be promulgated against the sale 
of patronage and places under Government, which the Divine Law re- 
probates, and which is one of the principal causes of the downfall of the 
Empire. 

“The above resolutions being a complete renovation of ancient cus 
toms, thie Imperial decree shall be published at C 
all the Provinces of our Empire, and shall be communi officially 
to all the Ambassndors of Friendly Powers residing nt 
in order that they may be witnesses to the granting of these Tustitu- 
tions, which, if it may please God, are to endure for ever. 

“ May the Almighty God extend his protection to us all, Let those 
who may presume to violate the present Institutions be the object of 
Divine maledietion, and be deprived of happiness now and for ever — 
Amen.” 

‘The fate of Redschid Pascha, the patriotic individual by whom this 
extensive system of reform was introduced, was anticipated by all those 
who were accustomed to watch the coarse of events in Tarkey,—not 
because doubts were ever entertained of the probity, talents, or excel- 
lent intentions of that Statesman, but on necount of his having ideas re~ 
specting the solution of the Egyptian differences, and the best means of 
regenerating his country, which were too enlightened to eo-ineide with 
those of the majority of the Divan, However, his fall does not in the 
least affect the integrity of his character, and his presence at the head 
of affairs has been signalized by too many important innovations, not to 
secure him, in his retirement, the admirution and esteem of all honest 
men. In proof of the estimation in which he was held, the Sultan 
‘Med’gidl sent for him to the palace, in July 1941, and invested him with 
the Order of the “ Red Engle,” set in diamonds, which had been pre- 
sented to him by the King of Prussie, This circumstance created cone 
siderable sensation at Constantinople,—the ontinary rule being, that » 
fallen Minister forfeits his right to wear decorations.* F 


* See Vol. TT. p. 12, alto, p91, et wea. 





APPENDIX. 


DEATH OF THE SULTAN MAHMOUD, © 


Late te Cth ly 0. 
Saltan Mahmoud i no more, He finished his mortal 
really, ut least officially, yesterday morning (some say, on the 
but that the event was concealed), and the new Sultan Al 
was immediately proclaimed it 


went on; and afterwards, that is, at Sr. 31, the remains of 
were interred at an open spot near “ the burt column” which he bad 
himself pointed oat for the purpose, and where a “turbé,” or m 

Jeum will Le erected over him. Nothing could be more tranquil 

‘the conduet of the people, who mingled their tears, and confined t 
‘words to lamentations at the loss of one who was eatecmed as a 


liver complaint, whieh had been too long 

physiclms came to attend him, they 

had already removed the patient beyond the reach of art. On ‘Thane: 
ee 


ces the Empire: tat hes 
and gentle, and though by the Turkish law, he is a major (15 

age for the majority of a Sovereign), the affhirs of the State will pro- 

bobly, for years to come, be virtually directed by more experienced 

heads and stronger hands than bis Khosrew Pacha has been 

‘appointed Bash Vekeel,” or Prime Minister,—the late 

Paschs, being made President of the Supreme Council, and Halll: 

Paschn “ Cnzi-Askar" (Seruskier). Sundry other changes have ether 

already taken place, or are talked of,—as Said Prscha to be“ Muschir” of 

the palace—Tahir Pase 

of Vidin is hourly expected. Orders were dir 

suspend all hostilities. On Friday next we 

“ ginding on the sword < Segke Pw the 

Mosque of Eyoob. This is coronation, According to. 

Soondaine meopitng is a erate ai, pete te ee 

about night and day, and all needful precautions are adopted to pre- 





APPENDIX. 493. 


serve order, and to repress any attempta that might be made to disturb: 
it, A few individuals have been, it is said, arrested; and some have 
found strangulation a remedy for aspirations of a dangerous tendenoy + 
one or two others have been exiled.” 

On the game day on which His Highnoss died, the following official 
announcement was made to the Foreign Ambussadors by the Ministers 
of the Sublime Porte. 

“On thie Monday, July Ist, towards the morning, by the Eternal 
Decree of God, Sultan Mabmoud Khan, Emperor of the Ottomans, was 
removed from this mortal state, and the Crown Prince, the Serene, 
August, Mighty Sultan, Ab'dul Meschid Khan, has happily ascended 
the hereditary throne of his ancestors; and, according to the ancient 
custom of the Empire, received the homage of the assembled Great Dig- 
uitaries, the Supreme Clergy, the Commander of the troops, the Mini~ 
ators of the Porte, and Officers of State, On the 20th of June, two days 
before the death of the Sultan, orders were dispatched both to Hafie 
Prscha, and to the Capoadan Puscha, to halt with the army and the 
fleet, wherever they might be, on the receipt of these dispatehes.” 

5i by all the Ottoman Ministers, 

Sultan Mahmoud was the thistieth Sovereign of the farnily of Oman, 
and the twenty-fourth who has reigned in Constantinople since the 
conquest of that city in 1453. He held dominion 31 years. His losw 
was much regretted by the Christians, to wham be always afforded 
protection. He was buried in the centre of the “Divan Yolou,*—the 
principal street in Constantinople: a splendid Mausoleum is already 
commenced, Much sorrow was displayed, if we may judge by the 
avenues of beholders, who, according to their religion, are forbidden to 
shew any gricf—still it was felt, nnd at last, evinced by tears, screaming, 
and lamentations—though they should have remained silently gazing 
on the ground. The bicr was carried by his former Officers of State. 
‘The late Emperor was undoubtedly enlightened, for a Moslem; but he 
had an untmetable, prejudiced people to govern, and was thwarted in 
every way by his Ministers:—he was tainted with the doctrines of 
fatalism, and imagined that it wag vain to contend against the decrees 
of “Destiny.” He had many presentiments of his death; and like 
Napoleon, allowed himself to be deterred from his purpose, by what he 
concelved to be bad omens. On the 26th of December, 1838, the palace 
intended. for His Highness’s daughter, about being given in marriage, 
was destroyed by fire. ‘This accident, which the whole of the Osmanli 
population looked upon asa highly portentous omen, spread great con~ 
sternation. in the Seraglio, Mahmoud, who was as strongly under the 
influence of superstition a8 the most simple-minded among his subjects, 
considered this prodigy as a warning from Heaven, that the person, 
whom he had determined on making his son-in-law, was unworthy of 
that honour, and that somebody else should be chosen in his stead! In 











494 APPENDIX. 
the month of October, 1838, the Sultan embarked on board 


it i syllable—ontil at 
Scraskicr, who, like most of the Members of the Divan, was averse to 
the renewal of hostilities with the Pascha of Egypt, (but had never” 
at 


| 

much the interpretation of this ominous eireumstance might x 

favourable to the furtherance of his own views,—threw himself 

muster’ feet, and exclaimed, “Long live our Lord! Let his - 

Jjoice, and not mourn at this eign—which cannot be mistaken! 

the Prophet has decided the question which has so much agitated the 

Councils of tho Sublime Porte! He has declared that Mohammed's _ 

sword is not to be drawn under the present juncture!” For a. 

‘His Highness's countenance brightened; and the explanation wl 

had been offered, being afterwards confirmed by the “ 

ordered the fleet to return to its anchorage:—but he never 

recovered his spirits; and nine months afterwards,—he did! 
His on, the youlfel Abdul Medgid who extol Mn haw te 


ss 


Medgld on his acgeasion to the throne == 
hs Baltenn-eotbin, Valls, wishing. boca! te a eualae 





APPENDIX. 495 


embroidered with pearls, rubles, and emeralds, The Sultana-mother 
approached, and, with invocations to God, gave her blessing to her son. 
Next came the Sultana lama, his aunt, who presented him with a 
female slave, a gift with which Abdul Med'gid appeared to be much 
gratified, and placed the girl upon a seat nearly as rich ax his own, A 
thousand slaves came in turn, and prostrated themsclves at the feet of 
the Sultan, During the ceremony, young Circassian girls showered 
handfuls of sequins in the apartment, in such profusion, that it became 
difficult to walk init, the feet slipping from treading on them, When 
all the fair recluses of the Harem hail paid their tribute of homage to 
the Sultan, Mesdames Dus did the same, and afterwards attempted to 
kiss the fect of Her who hai become the Companion of the Grand 
Seigneur, but shé resisted, until the Sultans Valisd desired her to accept 
this act of homage, as being due to her station. She then submitted, 
but with # timidity whieh mado the Sultan smile. On taking leave of 
the Sultana Valisé, Mesdames Duz ench received # walver of silver gilt, 
with six stands for cops, in chased gold, enriched with dinmonds, and a 
enasolette for perfume, of the same metal, The Sultana alao presented 
toall, a handkerehief containing 1000 pinstres in gold coin, recommend 
ing that they should be enrefully preserved in commemoration of the 
accession of their Sovereign to the throne.” 


THE MOHAMMEDAN YEAR. 


‘The Era of the Mohammedans is reckoned from the “ Hogira” or 
“ Plight of Mohammed,” and is dated from the 16th of July, A.D, 622. 
‘The Mohammedan Lunar year contains 354 days, 8 hours, 48 minutes, 
or 12 months, which the Arabs thue designate, in reference to their re- 
ligious festivals -— 


1,—Mobhar'ram, the sacred month, the Ist day of which corresponds 
with the 2Ist of May, has 30 dayr, 

2.—Bufar, the happy month, Lat ice. the 19h of Jone y 29, 
B.—Rabec'acl-Ow'wal, Ist ie. the — 19thof July 
4—Rabee’sel-Tanes, tive the 7thef Aug. 5 
$.—D'yooma’d el-Ow'wal, or D’gooma’- 

a-1-O0'ls, Lat 0, the $ 15m of Sept. 
6.—D'gooma'd et-Tr'nee, or D’goomn'- 

da-t-Te’niych, Int. ¢. the } lm of Oet 
7.—Red’geb, the noble month, Ist i-e. the 13th of Now. y, 
8.—Shaaba'n, theglorious month, lsti.e. the 15th of Dec. 5, 


BEB ses 


APPENDIX. ANT 


‘smacl and Abraham, in whose seed, “all the nations of the earth 
shall be blessed." Noah, or “Noub,” is in high estimation with them ; 
because they believe he saved the world from absolute destruction; and 
they assert that Abraham left his country to become the " Father of 
the Faithful,” in obedience to the express commands of God. At the 
same time, they do not deny the miracles of our Saviour, who in the 
Khoran is designated " D'Lsse,"”—and they even attribute others to Him 
which are set forth in the Talmud, and the books of the Jewish Rabbis: 
—they place implicit confidence in the account which the Bible gives 
of the “Passage of the Red Sea,"*—and they revere the memory of 
Solomon, Job, or “ Ayoub,” and Jonas or “Younds."” ‘They profess to 
hate the Devil and his Angels, and to abhor Cain, Nimrod, the Pharaohs 
of Egypt, and all the Heathen Idols of Arabia,—ns “Lat,” “ Minat,’ 


are 
assumed to himself three names, “Mohammed,” '* Ma~ 
Pinter emp and generally pronounoed by the 
Arabs as if it were written “ Am'hh'ammed”—“ Ahmed,” or “ Achmet™ 
tn Heaven ;—anil “Mahmoud” in Hell! All these, but especially the 
two first, are held saered, and it is thought that those who bear them 
will go to Paradise. ‘The Mussulmauns think less of titles than we do; 
but they glory in being able to claim relationship with the Prophet :— 
those who think themselves entitled to this honour, or who have made 
the pilgrimage to Mekkah, are eniled “ Haigi:"—they are generally 
great fanatics, insolent and overbeating—although their religion teaches 
Se cut envad Gat igen There is scurcely a Moham~ 
medan who does not believe in nstrology, magic, and sorcery —all are 
more or less under the influcuce of superstition: anything mysterious 
is attributed by them to supernatural agency—evil spirits, fairies, or 
the " Evil Eye:"—they are continually axking for “ talismans” nnd 
“ warnga,” or charms; and they have great faith in * amulets,” or 


fulfilment of their desires —to this end, fumigations and mirrors aro 
thought to have a most remarkable effect, quotations from the Khoran 
suspended about the person, and mystical signs, and writing in some 
strange language.t At one period, the dogs in and abont Constantinople, 
became so numerous and so noisy, that the Divan published a decree 
that they should be carried over to the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus, 
and there turned loose—it being contrary to the doctrines of the Kharan 
to deatroy life, otherwise they would have been shot;—the decree was 
immediately enforced, to the delight of everybody: but it so happened 
‘that a fire broke out the eame evening, in ‘Turk-town, which disconcerted 
the Authorities not a dittie, and repenting of the rash ace which they 


* See Vol. 11, p. 52 and $10.—Vol. I. p. 367, et seq, 1 alto p, 206 and 343, 
‘tf SeoVol. I. p.265, ot seq. $ See Vol. I. p,7$and 39); and Vol, II, Chap. ix, 
VOL. I. KK 


Sonagerueetsece parce oat aaa 
and mangy cure!* 


me 
FINANCIAL ADMINISTRATION IN bts 


‘to the 9; which has been #0 long im force tt 
the tones Roplre tha Gcegeie of toe Balsa reser a 
‘Yinces, have it in their power to practise the grossest ty } 


‘began to foresee—instend of the golden harvest he 
siderable loss, unless he called into operation the 


Wiolence. Bent on schemes of spoliation, he summoned 
sence the Osmanli and Greek Munic 


Se 
to undertake the ‘building for the sum of 150,000 

the cheapness of building matesiale in. the Exoviacadiatl 
Sponheipomnn meinen oat The gti : 
Primates withdrew, without venturing to make 
dems remcmroncn emu, tha Gorey ed ies toad 
concert with their constituents, as to the means of raising | 
contribution. The Greek architect alone, at the Governor's } 
remained behind with the Mollah. ‘The two magistrates, U 





APPENDIX. 499 


Magistrates were congrtulating themselves on the success of their 
catortion, when Emim Paachs, to whom the inhabitants of Phillippo- 
poli had applied for redress, unexpectedly arrived in the town, under 
pretence of pussing the local militia in review. Finding upon enquiry, 
that the statement of grievances laid before him by the inhabitants, was 
well-founded, he sent for the Greek architect, and having obliged him 
to confess in what manner the Governor and the Mollah had prevailed 
upon him to claim for the erection of the palace, o exorbitant a aam, 
he summoned both of the Magiatmtes before him, and with a severe 
rebuke, condemned them to refund the sum they had received, and to 
pay the expenses already incurred, out of thetr own pure. AA few days 
only had elapsed after the Pascha’s departure for Adrianople, when an 
alarm of fire startled the inhabitants out of their sleep. The fire broke 
out in the houso of the Greck architect ;»—thanks to the exertions made, 
it was promptly extinguished, but to the inexpressible horror of their 
follow-citizens, the bodies of the proprietor, his wife, children, and 
servants were found, in different parts of the house, with their throats 
cut. The only individual who had eseaped the axsassin's knife, was 
the architect's eldest son, who slept in the upper part of the house. 
‘The Governor, informed of the circumstance, seized it greedily as a 
‘means whereby to concen! the horrible plot of which he had been the 
perpetrator, He accused the Greek youth of having murdered his 
parents, and set fire to the house, in the hope of thus preventing the 
detection of his crimes, threw him into prison, and submitted him to 
the most cruel ordeal of the torture-engine, to extract from him the 
avowal of his guilt. Disappointed in his expectations, this. monster 
was on the point of leading his victim to the scaffold, when a messenger 
arrived from Constantinople, bringing in answer to the statement laid 
before the Council at Stamboul, the sentence of destitution against the 
Governor and the Judge, and of their exile into Asia Minor—This is 
only one of a thousand instances which might be adduced, of the same 
odious natore. A similar sptri¢ of venality and corruption still prevails 
through every department of Government—more especially in Syria, 
and other remote Provinces, 


TURKISH PROPHECY, 


‘The following is extracted from a book of Prophecies called Muha 
medys,"" which ix held in veneration by the Turks. “ The Turkish 
Empire shall conquer Rome, and make the Pope Patriarch of Jerusa- 
Jem; and he shall some time after, profess the Mohammedan faith, 

KK2 





‘Of all the important changes which have recently taken. 
there is nothing which is 00 highly 


cesmry 
would involve herself in a general war with Europe; but it i 
how short-sighted men of great genius sometimes are in 


; sleepingtrootat, stablen;| 
water, and other requisites, and Messrs, Raven and Hill 

* Seo page 48, 349, 358, and 485 ; ond Vol. IE. p.121, 231, 122,. 
‘t Seo p. 57, 128, 283, and 325: also Vol. II, Chap. II. TV, and V. 





APPENDIX. 501 


furnish tents, waggons, carriages and horses; they also opened a tranch 
hotel at Sues. In furtherance of the plan, Mohammed Ali ordered 
‘boats to be built for the Nile and the canal, and the English provided 
steamers to ply between Bombay nnd Suez. ‘The plan came into sue 
cessful operation, but was abandoned in December 1838, in consequence 
of a sudden revival of the Pascha’s fears that the English might con« 
‘vert these atation-houses into forts, The ancient mode of travelling 
was then for a time resumed, and the privilege of transporting passen- 
gers by dromedaries was sold to Mr. Waghorn, but daring the short 
period above mentioned, no less than 800 persons between 
Fombay and Cairo, Great credit ie doe to Mr, Waghorn + he obtained 
the Pascha’s consent to establish English steamers on the Nile, and 
received a handsome public testimonial as an acknowledgment of his 
services. Since that time, the Viecroy has bought his experience ; and 
whether he hes confidence in the English or not, he bas at least 
lenmed that we have no thought of taking possession of Egypt, not- 
withstanding he protested against our sending troops through his 
territory. Mr. Waghom continued his exertions, and the journey to 
India is now little more than an éxoursion of pleasure, instead of a 
tedious and formidable sea voyage. According to the improved ar- 
rangements of the Oriental Steam Navigation Company, a large vessel 
of between 1540 and 1670 tons, and with an engine of upwards of 450 
horse power, leaves Falmouth on the first of every month, and the 
means of transit through Egypt are materially extended. A large iron 
‘oat of 130 tons, tracked by four horses, conveys the passengers from 
Alexandria by the Mahmoudieh Canal, to Atfieh on the Nile, whence 
they proceed by an iron steamer, (the “ Cairo," or “ Lotus,”) to Boolak, 
the port of Cairo, where there is a steam-boat always in readiness to 
convey those who are coming from India, down the river, Thusadouble 
route is established : for the stenm-boat which arrives from Atfleh, after 
Janding her pasengere at Boolak, and remaining day or two for their 
accommodation, ascends the Nile as far as Thebes, halting a short Uime 
at the principal places. ‘There is now a regular conveyance between 
Kheneh and Kosseir on the Red Sen (about 120 miles,) and between 
Cairo and Suen (aboat eighty-four 4 
between Suez and India touch at Kosseir regulurly out und home, for 
the purpose of landing or embarking such as may prefer the route by 
‘Upper Egypt. Arrangements are also made for protecting travellers, 
as much ns possible, from rik when the plague is raging, but I sup- 
pose there is no Act of Parliament ngninst disense! Moreover, large 
steamers leave Malta every ten days, for Zante, Corfu, and Trieste,Genon, 
Naples, Leghorn, Athens, Smyrna, Constantinople, Sinope, Samsoon,and 
‘Trebizonde, returning to Malta by the same route; the days of depar- 
ture from, and arrival at Malta, being so arranged as to coincide with 
those of the vessels on the main line between England and Alexandria, 





502 APPENDIX. 
Besides these, French, Austrian, and Russian steamers arrive 


delay on shore at Leghorn and Civita Vecchia; and 150 hours to steam 
from Malta to Alexandria, touching at Syra; so that it ix quite possible 
to proceed from London vil Calais and Marscilles, and be in time for 
the stenmer at Suez in three weeks; peers | 
themselves a month or six wecks, especially if they wish to see 

thing e route. The Conipany's track-boats on the Mahmoudich canal | 
are too heavy for speed: but they are commodious, Besides the 
luggage room, there is a saloon, and @ separate cabin for ladies, both 
fitted up with divans and tables; the windows are on the sides like a 


fey 
4 charge of 1. The distance from Atfieh to Boolak varies 
fro 120 to 190 miles according to the season: but the journey may be — 
accomplished in twenty hours againat the ‘stream, and the chief fare fis Be. 


both in Alexandria, Cairo and Sues, for twee shilling yr diem eh 
yenon, including a liber entertainment in the European style. 


coaches or omnibuses, under the superintendence of Messrs. 

Co: the fare is 61, including camels for tho transport of 
which, with Indian travellers, is sometimes considemble: Servants i 
children pay balf price. 2. by donkey-lilters or donkeys, which 
from thirty to fifty ice and for which sixteen erm: 


At Nos. 2, 4, and 6, beds and refreshments are provided: the 
are chietly stables. 


Started for Suez at nine a.m, Our party consisted of fifty passengers, 

including twelve Indies and three female servants. ‘The mails 

of sixty-two chests and three bags. For the conyeyunee of the whole, 
~ we required 145 camels, sixty donkeys, twelve muddle horses; twelve 

earrlage horses, seven dromedaries, twelve donkey-chairs, dhree twos 





APPENDIX, 


wheeled carriages, and one fourwheeled carriage. The camel 
donkey drivers, and servants numbered 190, and 

horsemen furnished by Mohammed Ali, seventeen, making up 

of 197 bipeds, Having journeyed twenty miles, we halted at station 
No. 2, where we partook of roust fowls, turkeys, and geese, hams, 
mutton, London porter, pale ale, port, sherry, Maderin, elarct, and 


horsemanship, and dexterity in ‘throwing the d’gereed.’ At midnight, 
we halted at the centre station, forty miles from Cairo, Here we had 
tea, and afterwards, supper We passed the night here—(query, slept), 
Before starting in the morning, we had a substantial breakfast, and on 
arriving at No.6 station, another pio-nio dinner. We reached Sues at 
4 a.m. on the 25th; slept at the hotels, and embarked on bonrd the E. T. 
Company's steamer for Bombay." I conclude they halted during the 
extreme heat, and slept—those that could: for after so much feasting, 
they must have been in a fine state of excitement, and if they con- 
tinued repleting in such sort, they would assuredly be nttacked with 
fever on landing, if they even reached Bombay in kafety. On eich a 
journey, it is the height of imprudence to take more than a simple pilaf 
of rice, onions, and chicken, with dates, water-melon, tea, coffee, and 
the like, Beer, and wine, unless freely diluted, are heating and preju- 
dicinl.* ‘The passage from Suez to Bombay is 80/, or 60 if the pas- 
senger is willing to sleep on deck, which 1 should say, for s gentleman, 
is decidedly the best place, as no other distinction is made between him 
and n eabin passenger. 


The route from England to Bombay may be thus estimated : 





see Bios s 
w 1 

2 ” 3 

ie 1 

2a 3 

Lig a 

vo, a 

From Alexandria to Suez 4 a 
Prom Satz to Bombay ... aa 80 
Expenses at Alexandria, Csiro, and Sues, ... . 2 
Sundries and casualties «....+.-. +++ wer 4 





2 
3 
= 
E) 


* Bee p. 100, 198, 209, $15 and 318, 


APPENDIX. 505 


‘Three steamers to euch station will admit of proper time for overhaul= 
ba and putting machinery in order, absolutely necessary at the end of 
cach passage, The vessels should be made gradually to change stations, 
so as to retum to England in regular rotation, or as may be required 
for repairs, new boilers, &e,, and there should be two additional vessels 
for the Bombay Branch, which would secure a monthly communication 
with India—the passage not exceeding upon the average, sixty or sixty- 
five days, tn Mhe worst season of the year?" 

‘Before quitting this subject, I may mention that in 1834, Mr. Robert 
‘Tod, a British merchant of Damascus, and who has also a house at 
Bagdad, organized a line of couriers between these two cities, aided by 
Colonel Taylor, the Charge d’Affaires at the latter, and een the 
sonetion of the Syrian Authorities. A courier was 
every twenty days from Damascus, and arrived at Bussomih in faa 
sixteen to twenty-three days, whence the letters were forwarded by 
the first vessel, to Bombay. A Government Tahinh now leaves Con- 
stantinople regularly once a month, who conveys the letters to Aleppo 
in about ten days: so that by these means, the communication with the 
Persian Gulf would stand thus : 

From London to Constantinople « 

From Constantinople to Aleppo. 

From Aleppo to Damnseus . 

From Damascus to Bagdad . 

From Bagdad to Bussorah . 









days. 

‘Tn cases where the expense is not an object, an Exprees would get 
over the ground in much less time: but by such route, the communi- 
cation must always be very uncertain, on account of the pach 
position of the wandering tribes, and would only be 
should think, in the event of the communication by Egypt or ‘es 
Euphrates being cut off. 

Four iron steamers (thanks to Colonel Chesney) now float on the 
broad waters of the Euphrates; and the ultimate success of that 
gentleman's plans will mainly depend on those who have charge of the 
navigation.* 





THE TRANSIT OF GOODS THROUGH EGYPT, AND THE 
NAVIGATION OF THE NILE. 


On the 4th of September, 1841, Mr. Anderson, one of the managing 
directors of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company, 
returned (0 Alexandria from Constantinople, where he had been making 


* Seo Vol. Hp. 196, 





fore hoped the Pascha would accede to his proposals, 
protect goods, and cause the roads between Cairo and Sues, 

Rowseirto be cleared, ‘Three or four days afterwards, Mrs 

reccived for answer through Boghos Yoursoulf Bey, That 

of merchandise mi 


arrangements aly merchants sending 
Rape eve no direst beanels duby to pay, the Comper etaag 
able for it to the Pascbs. His Highn 


‘and the Porte in 1898, This ina great advantage, because 
articles will now be sent by the Mediterranean, and 
which will become the Entrepdt for the Oriental trade; and 
of steam, the communication with India is made fi seeks 
months. The Convention was to take effect on and from th 


1. That the Captain and crew of the boats should be all 
ae eee 
‘nnd that they should pay the established tonange duty. 

Mohammed All was willing thot British boots should n 
Seanaar, but thought the trude carried on by backs ought to be I 
thenatives Many perious euppoce, because tha Buglish 
eed slowed £5 de almost anything thay chose, and their Segal 





APPENDIX. 507 


respected, that they have a right to navignte wherever they please, not 
only hoisting the British colours, but claiming indemnity and exemp- 
tion wherever they go: but this fs not the ense, and the Consnl General 
suggested to the Pasoba, that Kuropeans proceeding to the interior 
should be furnished with His Highness’s firmaun to protect them from 
the over officiousness of the petty Authorities, The Nile steamers draw 
about three feet of water: there are several continually afloat, and the 
traveller is reminded of his native rivers. In December 1839, three 
gun-bonts made their appearance, with the Roman flag flying : they 
hud on board, the columns from Upper Egypt which Mohammed Ali 
‘had presented to the Pope. The pious Moslems gazed with surprise 
and indignation at the Papal colours, supposing them to be the 
standards of the Jew:—whose physiognomy they recognised in the 
full length figures of St. Peter and St. Poul, as they fluttered in the 
breeze. In the summer of 1838, Galloway Bey made trial of a tem- 
porary railroad, 300 ynrds long, under the windows of the 

The experiment succeeded, and the Pascha was mach pleased, and tram 
work was subsequently Inid down on the banks of the canal, for the 
conveyance of cargocs of grain to the Government magazines; but it 
was continually getting out of order, and ultimately abandoned; and 
the preference is now given to buskets and the fellahs’ backs, as 
formerly.* 


THE GOVERNMENT SCHOOLS AND COTTON MILLS.t 


‘The Pascha's attempt to organize Establishments for the education of 
youth, does him great honour, and is a convincing proof of his compro- 
hensive genius and intelligence, These useful Institutions consist 
chiefly of 

1. The College of Kassorlyme: delightfully situated on the right 
bank of the Er-Rhoudah canal. Opposite, are the gardens of Tbrahim 
Pnseha, and the palace of Sheriff Bey: the Seraskier’s Divan 
is on the left; and near at hand, in the midet of a grove of stately 
syeamores, there is 4 large religious edifice of the Moslems, which was 
formerly the residence of Mourad Bey: the intervening spnces being 
now cleared, levelled, and planted. This Establishment is a sort of 

proparatory school for young gentlemen of promising talents, selected 
as suitable persons to be distributed when duly qualified, among the 
various departments under Government. There are generally from 

 Sce page 218, and Vol. II. p, 63, 568, and 507. 

1 Sco page 316, 387, and 492 also Vol, HI. page 21, and $75. 


=n 


a 





in every species of debauchery ;—considering 
scculeed pte ofthe Veo (lion in fit 
parted with their liberty, the moment they entered the 
rendered themselves linble nares 

fit,) they became arrogant, dissipated, 

ophthalmia, and itch, in their most virulent forms, and ali 
Institation is furnished with baths and a Hospital, we: 
{informed that in 1832, 300 of them, (many anly twelve 
were sent off, en masee, to the Infirmary at Aboo 
pape baa giset which may be considered » 

it ie called School being intended for the 


ened preptedaerrstee bere 


the system pursued, similar, the result the sume, By tur : 
respectable of the Pascha’s eléves, are those educated at 

2 The School of Cadetys a noble Establishment on the: 3 
‘river, little to the north of Ghizet—formerly a palace of 
Pascha. The inmates are Turks, Georgians, and Circassians, 
well behaved, and many of them highly talented individuals. 
made acquainted with the Art of war, drawing, nd 
PeEeal Semypeen sail Osha) Gr pea and h 
they their Teachers are chosen from. both Franks 
they have a military air about them, and when, during the 
they were placed at the head of a newly organized eorys, they: 
‘themselves well, 

“3. The School of Enginoers in at Khanka: the pupils learn 
modelling, drawing, mining, and fortification, and are ee! 
number of those who distinguish themselves at Kiasserlyne, 
may be sald of 

A. The Artillery College at Toura, where the Art of gunnery is 
in all its branches, by Kuropeans, as well as mathematics, and th 
current Isnguages of the day. 

5. The Naval School ix of course loented at Alexan 
Arsenal, where everything ascertaining to ship-building and navign 
‘is taught; and as I have already stated, practical instructions | 
to young men on board every ship of war:—the Arabs, however, 





APPENDIX. 509 


a strong aversion to a sen-faring life; and as, for the most part, no 
dependence can be placed on the Officers, there is very little subordina- 
tion, cither in the schools or in the fleet. {There in no want of talent or 
conrage, bot they are made sailors by force. The wubjects pursued in 
‘the citadel, at 

6. The Acudemy of Musio, axe much more congenial with their habits 
and feelings; they learn the most difficult Italian and German compo- 
sitions with very little trouble; they perform with taste and expression, 
and do great credit to the Professors, who are Germans and French. 
‘Every ship in the Pascha's navy has a band. An attempt was once 
made to manufacture musies) instruments in Egypt; but it failed, and 
they are now imported from Europe.* 

7. The Schoot of Medivina is at Aboo Zabel, near Cairo, Every requi- 
site has been provided, and no expensespared, The Hospital can accom 
modate 600 patients. The residence of the Professors and the Pupils is 
separated from it by 8 fine ene of orange-trees, syeamore, mimosa, 
and palms, Unfortunately, the students are called into active Gee 
at the expiration of four years, when they cannot know 
their profession, Several eunuchs and females are initiated in i 
mysteries of the Obstetric Art, that they may attend the lndics of the 
Seraglio.t 

In’ addition to the above, we may enumerate a School for Veterinary 
Surgery—a School of Agriculture, where the subject of Errigation is 
considered, the principles of Hydraulics, and the Art of Bormg for 
Water and making roads, An effort is also making to teach the soldiers 
and sailors to rend and write; and no man fx promoted to the rank of 
corporal, who is ignorant of these fandamental principles of education, 
Mr. Bartholomew, an English missionary, applied for permission to 
open a school by subscription, for the education of all who would 
attend, whether Mohammedans, Christians, Jews, or Infidels, This the 
Viceroy objected to, but offered to defray the Presenter A it be 
school were exclusively for Arabs, provided their 
wore not interfered with, There could, aT conceive, be 10 acta 
this, seeing that education is the first step to civilization, Now, all 
this liberality indicates a strong desire on the part of Mohammed Ali 
to improve the political condition of the country. He i quite aware 
that the Turks and Egyptians are not in a state to cope with Europeans, 
and Tam ut all times ready to give him credit for his intelligence and 
shrewdness: but I blame him for attempting to do all at once, regard- 
Jess of the people's good, especially as we know that self- 
ment is his only motive. BoE ea 
extent, failed; and if he will only fate time, encourage eee ee 
and give up his monopolies, he may restore the resources of his country, 

* Sco page 140 and 175. 
+ See p, 68, 105, 194, 205, S34; and Vol. TI, p. 582, 





510 APPENDIX. 


and make the Egyptians on influential people, There is 

of inconsistency in his conduet: he plaecs young men of 

they mny be instructed in the various Arte and Sciences, he 
away before they are qualified to act; and even those whom be | 
rent to be edaoated in England and France, ure required to-do, on the 
retarn, anything but what they have been taught: moreover, those: 
are sent fo the different Establishments in his Dominions, whi 
many of them, really good, are unlikely to answer his ex; 
‘because they are, for the most part, drafted from that sink of 

the College of Kasverlyno. This reasoning npplits equally to the w 
Socturing departments, The Pascha's soapcchenalts DES 


only by slow ’ 
irons in the fire” to succeed; and it Is much to be regretted, that wi 


ans u 
ought to have done, but to manufactures: the only benefit 
from it was the clearing ss bone aia 
wes Kremsjipoal 

quontity of machinery was imported, and factories, cott 
‘do not mean to say that no success attended the w 
nothing in comparison with the sactifice of life and capital l sn 

of foroed labour wax adopted throughout ; soughiont end daa at 
campaigns, moat of the factorics were abandoned altogether, 1 
are not less, I believe, than twenty-five or twenty-six eotton-n 
Kgypt:—at first Nubians were employed) but people who were 
tomed to breathe only the pure and rarefied air of the desert, 
“exist in such dens, and their ranks were rapidly thinned; and 
cruelties that were permitted, caused the death of 


climate, is traly a revolting prison-house, Again, in a country 

Egypt, where at certain seasons, the atmosphere is loaded with 

the machinery ix continunlly getting out of orders and when it ia | 

in mind, how much the Pascha is robbed by his Vazirs, and how m 
* See page 113, 129, 316, 365, 403, 4312, and 461, 





APPENDIX. Sib 


he must lose by the carelessness and ignorance of the workmen, it is 
evident to all, that notwithstanding his arbitrary regulations and mono- 
polies, it is quite impossible it ean ever answer his purpose to carry on 
‘ooh absurd speculations: 1 believe he is pretty well convinced of the 
fet; for he discovers that he in plundered on all sides, and in ways 
which are utterly beyond his control:—a grent deal of his machinery is 
now lying covered with rust or dirt, and several of his factories are 
abandoned, and in ruins, 1 have already stated that Tbrabim Pascha 
disapproves of his father’s poliey, in many respects; and he has clearly 
demonstrated, that according to the present system, serious losses are 
sustained by the Egyptian Government, even by the exporting of raw 
cotton: but Mohammed Ali will not be dictated to, and he adheres to 
his old prejudices with the most obstinate infatuation, He is stil] 
flattered and eajoled by men who find it their interest to hamour his 
eaprices, and turns a deaf enr to those who are honcat enough to tell 
him the less acceptable truth. 





CURIOUS ANTICIPATION OF MODERN EVENTS. 


In the warks of Roger Bacon, who wrote in the thirteenth century, 
may be found an anticipation of the invention of the stenm-boat, loco- 
motive engines on mil-roads, the diving bell, the suspension bridge, 
and it might almost be said, of the recent events ut St. Jean d’Acre, 
His own words are these:—“Men may construct for the wants of 
navigation, such machines, that the greatest vessels, directed by a 
single man, shall cut through the rivers and seas with more mpidity 
than if they were propelled by rowers; chariots may be constructed, 
which, without horses, shall run with immeasurable speed. Men may 
conceive machines which could bear the diver, without danger, to the 
depth of the waters. Men could invent s multitude of other engines 
and useful instruments, such as bridges that shall span the broadest 
rivers without any intermediate support. Art hath its thunders also 
which are terrible to think of. A small quantity of matter produces a 
horrible explosion, accompanied by & bright light, and this may be 
repeated so as to destroy a city or entire battalions.” 


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OLD BAILEY. 








Parsing 


3 6105 010 378 yi. 





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