Full text of "The modern housewife : or, Ménagère : comprising nearly one thousand receipts, for the economic and judicious preparation of every meal of the day : with those of the nursery and sick room, and minute directions for family management in all its branches : illustrated with engravings"

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THE

MODEM HOUSEWIFE

OB,

COMPRISING

NEARLY ONE THOUSAND RECEIPTS,

FOR THE ECONOMIC AND JUDICIOUS

PREPARATION OF EVERY MEAL OF THE DAY,

WITH THOSE OF

THE NURSERY AND SICK ROOM,

AND MINUTE DIRECTIONS FOR FAMILY MANAGEMENT
IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.

fillustrateti toft!) Hnjjrabfnjja.

ALEXIS SOYER,

AUTHOR OF "THE GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR."

EDITED BY AN AMERICAN HOUSEKEEPER.

NEW YORK:
D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 200 BROADWAY.

PHILADELPHIA : G. S. APPLETON, 146 CHESNUT ST.
1850.

ENTERED, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1849, by
D. APPLETON & COMPANY,

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District
of New- York.

7X7//

AGRfC.
UBRARr

PREFACE BY THE EDITOR.

IN adapting M. Soyer's admirable receipt book to the use of
American families, I have not presumed to amend, or attempted
to improve upon the text of so accomplished a master of the
art, which may with entire propriety be called the " preserva-
tive of all arts." All that I have ventured to do has been to
make a verbal correction here and there, necessary to render
the meaning of the author more plain ; to erase certain direc-
tions for cooking different kinds of game and fish unknown in
the new world ; and to omit the purely local information, and
scraps of history, which only increased the cost and bulk of the
book, without, in any way, adding to its value.

Except in one instance, nothing has been added ; for the ob-
ject in republishing the MENAGERE, was to furnish a new and
valuable work on the preparation of food, which should contain
important receipts hitherto unknown. Every country must have
its indigenous dishes, and it is to be presumed that every
American housekeeper likely to profit by M. Soyer's receipts,
will need no instruction in the art of preparing the many excel-
lent dishes peculiar to the United States.

It is a vulgar error to suppose that French cookery is more
costly and highly flavored than English ; an examination of the
MENAGERE will abundantly prove that the reverse is the fact,
and that M. Soyer's system, which has rendered him famous in

IV PREFACE.

Europe, is not only simple and economical, but the best adapted
to insuring the enjoyment of health, the elevation of the mental
faculties, and converting the daily necessity of eating into a
source of daily enjoyment. M. Soyer's great work, THE GAS-
TRONOMIC REGENERATOR, was prepared for the highest classes
of English society, and public festivals ; but the MENAGERE is
adapted to the wants and habits of the middle classes, and, as
presented in the present edition, calculated for the use of the
great bulk of American families.

M. Soyer is the good genius of the kitchen ; although he is
the renowned chef of one of the most sumptuous of the Lon-
don Club Houses, and the pet of aristocratic feeders, he has
labored continually to elevate the mind, and better the condi-
tion of the poor by instructing them in the art of obtaining the
greatest amount of nourishment and enjoyment from their food.
The dietetic maxims and culinary receipts of M. Soyer are not
less needed in the United States than in England; but for
different reasons. Happily, our countrymen do not suffer for
lack of raw materials, so much as for lack of cooks ; and, in
the Modern Housewife of M. Soyer, our housekeepers will find
a reliable guide and an invaluable friend.

New York, December, 1849.

CONTENTS.

PAGE
INTRODUCTION,

DIALOGUE BETWEEN MRS. B AND MRS. L , HER FRIEND

AND VISITOR, .., ...-: . . 1

LETTER NO. I., .".&

LETTER NO. II., , 6

BREAKFASTS, . . .7

FIRST SERIES OF RECEIPTS, 8

LETTER NO. III., * ... 26

EARLY LUNCHEONS, 27

LETTER NO. IV., -.'- i . 27

THE NURSERY DINNER, V. . 28

LETTER NO. V., ?'' . lb.

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS, . ..' ,. , . :*. , .* - . > - . . 33

PUDDINGS FOR INVALIDS, :-: . 47

POULTRY FOR INVALIDS, . . . . , , , . 63

CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE, . . . . ...... .65

LETTER NO. VI., ib.

LETTER NO. VII., 56

LETTER NO. VIII., . . .-. 67

LETTER NO. IX., . . . . ' . ^ /. , .58

LETTER NO. X., . . , , . ., .* . . . lb.

LETTER NO. XL, , ,4 . lb.

ROASTING, - - vi 4 69

BAKING, BOILING, STEWING, BRAISING, 60

FRYING, . . . . . . . , , . .' . . 61

SAUTEING, 62

BROILING, . ,. : ... 63

SAUCES, . . . -".. . v * ., .... .64

SOUPS, 76

FISH, . .V- .-. -* ': r - \ . - *V- ->' -* . 93

FISH SAUCES, . . . V *" * " *. HI

CONTENTS.

PAGE

REMOVES, 117

LETTER NO. XII., 120

POULTRY, 143

FLANCS, 158

ENTREES, OR MADE DISHES, 158

LETTER NO. X11I., 178

LETTER NO. XIV., 181

DISHES WITH THE REMAINS Of LAMB, 184

EGGS, 216

GARNITURE FOR OMELETTES, 219

ENTREES OF GAME, 220

ROASTS SECOND COURSE, 227

SAVORY DISHES . . . 234

LETTER NO. XV., 244

SHELL-FISH, 250

VEGETABLES, 253

OF DIFFERENT SORTS OF PASTRY, 268

JELLIES, 286

PUDDINGS IN MOULDS, 291

PUDDINGS BOILED IN CLOTHS, 293

PLAIN BAKED PUDDINGS IN DISHES, 294

REMOVES SECOND COURSE, 296

SOUFFLE, 299

DESSERT, 305

LETTER NO. XVI., lb.

COMPOTE, 307

COMPOTES Of FRUIT SIMPLIFIED, 310

SALADS OF VARIOUS FRUITS, 321

LETTER NO. XVIL, 327

LETTER NO. XVIII., 332

BEVERAGES FOR EVENING PARTIES, ib-

LETTER NO. XIX., ,i ."'., 334

CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS, . ,....' -336

BILLS OF FARE, . ,. ..' * . ' 339

LETTER NO. XX. A NEW ALIMENT, . > "'' . 345

CARVING, . . ;: . ,. " .,*'' 346

LETTER NO. XXI. THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE, .... 348

INDEX, 351

INTRODUCTION.

IN the following gossipping conversation between Mrs. B and

Mrs. L , and in the two letters which follow, M. Soyer explains the

motive of the work ; and, in a natural manner introduces the subject. ED.

DIALOGUE BETWEEN MRS. B AND MRS. L , HER

FRIEND AND VISITOR.

Mrs. L. I have now, my dear Mrs. B., been nearly a fort-
night at your delightful Villa, and I must say, with all truth,
that I never fared better in my life, yet I am considered some-
what of an epicure, as is likewise my husband ; but, of course,
our means being rather limited, we are obliged to live accord-
ingly.

Mrs. B. Well, so must we ; and I assure you that, during
the first few years of our marriage, our pecuniary resources
were but small, but even then I managed my kitchen and
housekeeping at so moderate an expense compared with some
of our neighbors, who lived more expensively, but not so well
as we did, that, when any of them dined with us, they flat-
tered me with the appellation of the " Model Housekeeper,"
and admired the comforts of our table, but would leave with
the impression that I must be the most extravagant of wives.
Now, believe me, I have always prided myself, .whether having
to provide for a ceremonious party or dining by ourselves, to
have everything properly done and served, that, if any friends

INTRODUCTION.

should come in by accident or on business, they were generally
well pleased with our humble hospitality, and that without ex-
travagance, as my husband is well convinced ; for when we dine
with any acquaintance of ours he is very eager to persuade
them to adopt my system of management ; for though he is
no great judge of what is called the highest style of cookery,
yet he does not like to live badly at any time ; as he very justly
says, it matters not how simple the food, a chop, steak, or a
plain boiled or roast joint, but let it be of good quality and
properly cooked, and every one who partakes of it will enjoy it.

Mrs. L. Nothing more true !

Mrs. B. But since you talk of limited income and economy,
let me relate to you a conversation which occurred a few years
ago between Mr. B. and a friend of his, who declared to him
that his income would never allow him to live in such luxury,
which he called a comfortable extravagance.

" Extravagance !" exclaimed Mr. B., " if you have a few min-
utes to spare, I will convince you of the contrary, and prove to
you that such an expression is very unjust, if applied to my
wife's management. Now, to begin ; what sum should you sup-
pose would cover our annual housekeeping expenditure, living as
we do, in a style of which you so much approve, but consider so
extravagant ? there are ten of us in family, viz., myself and wife,
three children, two female servants, and three young men em-
ployed in my business, and including our usual Christmas party,
which, of course you know, (having participated in the last two),
besides two separate birthday parties of twenty each, and three
juvenile petits-soupers and dances for the children upon their
natal anniversaries, also a friend dropping in occasionally, which
is never less than once or twice a-week." " Well, I do not
know," answered our friend ; " but having nearly the same
number to provide for, and in a more humble way, my ex-
penses for housekeeping are never less than per

annum." " Less than what ?" exclaimed Mr. B. ; " why, my

INTRODUCTION.

dear friend, you must be mistaken ;" at the same time ringing
the bell. " I wish I were, with all my heart," was the reply,
as the servant entered the room ; " Jane," said Mr. B., " ask
your mistress to step this way for a few minutes ; I wish to
look at her housekeeping book." But being busy at the time in
the kitchen, I sent up a key for him to get it, which happened
to be a wrong one, but, upon discovering the mistake, sent up
the right one with an apology for not coming myself, as I was
superintending the cooking of some veal broth, which the doc-
tor had ordered for our poor little Henry, who was ill at the
time. " Well," said his friend, " there is a wife for you ; I
must confess mine can hardly find the way to the kitchen
stairs." " Now !" said my husband, opening my desk, and,
taking up my book, he showed him the last year's expenditure,

which was . " No ! no ! that is impossible," replied the

other. " But," said Mr B., " there it is in black and white."
" Why, good heavens !" exclaimed he, " without giving so
many parties, and also two less in family, my expenditure is
certainly greater." To which Mr. B. replied, " So I should
imagine from the style in which I saw your table provided the
few days when we were on a visit to your house ; therefore I
am not in the least astonished. Here, however, is the ac-
count for the closing year just made up to the 28th December,
1848. Let us see what it amounts to, probably to 50 or
60 more." " So, so," replied the other, " that is an increase ;"
" Let it be so," said Mr. B. ; " but you must remember that
we are twelve months older, and as our business increases, so do
we increase our comforts ; and this year Mrs. B., with the
children, had a pretty little house at Ramsgate for two months,
which will account for the greater part of it."

Mrs. L. But, my dear Mrs. B., I am as much astonished as
your friend could possibly have been. I should, however, have
liked you to explain the matter ; but here comes your hus-
band, who will probably initiate me in your culinary secrets.

INTRODUCTION.

Good morning, my dear Mr. B. I have been talking to Mrs.
B. about her system of housekeeping, who was relating to me
a conversation you had with a gentleman, who was surprised
with its economy. I am also surprised, and should like to
take a few leaves out of your most excellent book, if you will
allow me.

Mr. B. Certainly, my dear madam ; in my wife, without
flattering her too much, you see almost an accomplished
woman (in hearing such praise, Mrs. B. retired, saying, " How
foolish you talk, Richard") ; she speaks two or three different
languages tolerably well, and, as an amateur, is rather profi-
cient in music, but her parents, very wisely considering house-
hold knowledge to be of the greater importance, made her first
acquainted with the keys of the store-room before those of the
piano ; that is the only secret, dear madam ; and this is the
explanation that I gave to my friend, who thought it a good
jest and one of truth. I told him to do the same by his two
daughters, which would not tfnly make them more happy
through life, but transmit that happiness to their posterity, by
setting an example worthy of being followed. I always say,
give me a domesticated wife, and with my industry I would
not change my position for a kingdom ; " Very true, very true,"
was my friend's answer, and we then parted.

I have never seen him since nor his wife, who was probably
offended at the economical propositions of her husband ; for
nothing, you are well aware, is more common than for people
to be offended when told the truth respecting themselves ; or
perhaps she was too advanced in years to think of changing
her ideas of housekeeping.

I see, my dear Mrs. L., the Brougham is waiting at the gate
to convey you to the railway ; allow me to see you safe to the
station ; you will not have many minutes to spare, for the train
will shortly be up.

About an hour after the above conversation, Mrs. L. was

INTRODUCTION.

seen entering her cottage at Oatlands, fully resolved to follow
as closely as possible the economic management of Mrs. B. ;
but a little reflection soon made her perceive that she possessed
only the theory, and was sadly deficient in the practice : she
then determined to beg of her friend a few receipts in writing,
and immediately dispatched the following letter :

From Mrs. L to Mrs. B .

Oatlands Cottage ; Jan. 1st, 1849.

MY DEAR HORTENSE, Upon my arrival at home, I am happy to say
that I found all quite well, and delighted to see me, after (to them) so
long au absence as a fortnight, which my husband was gallant enough
to say appeared months ; but to myself the time appeared to pass very
swiftly ; for, indeed, every day I felt so much more interested in watch-
ing closely how well you managed your household affairs, that, believe
me, you have quite spoiled me, especially with your recherche style of
cookery, which even now I cannot make out how you could do it at
such moderate expense : and, apropos of cooking, Mr. L., expecting me
home to dinner, had, I have no doubt, a long interview and discussion
with Cook respecting the bill of fare. " Well, sir," I will suppose she
said, " what can be better than a fine fat goose, stuffed with sage and
ingyons ; we have a very fine 'un hanging in the larder." (You must
observe, dear, that my cook is plain in every way.) " A very excellent
notion that, Cook ; nothing can be better than a good goose ;" was no
doubt, my husband's answer, who, although very fond of a good dinner,
cannot endure the trouble of ordering it.

Well, then, here I am in my little drawing-room (the window slightly
open), enjoying the fresh country air, which seems to have been amal-
gamated with a strong aroma from the aforesaid goose, especially the
sage and onions ; and I am almost certain that the inseparable apple-
sauce is burnt or upset on the stove, from the brown smoke now ascend-
ing from the grating over the kitchen window. This style is now to me
quite unbearable, and I mean to have quite a reform in my little estab-
lishment, and first of all to bring up my daughter in the way recom-
mended by Mr. B. to his friend, to make her more domesticated than I
am myself, as I begin to perceive that a knowledge of household affairs
is as much required as intellectual education ; and, for my part, I have

INTRODUCTION.

come to the determination of adopting your system of management as
closely as possible ; but first, you must know, that, without your
scientific advice, it will be totally impossible ; therefore I beg to pro-
pose (if you can afford the time) that you will, by writing, give me the
description how you lay out your breakfast-table, with the addition of
a few receipts for the making of rolls and the other breakfast bread,
which I so much enjoyed while with you ; even how to make toast, and
more especially how you make coffee, chocolate, cocoa (tea, of course, I
know). And should this meet your approbation, I mean to make a little
journal, which may some day or other be useful to our families and
friends.

Until I hear from you I shall be waiting with anxiety for your de-
cision upon this important and domestic subject.

Yours very sincerely,

ELOISE.

From Mrs. B , in reply.

Bifrons Villa ; Jan. 3d, 1849.

MY DEAR ELOISE, In answer to yours, I agree, with the greatest
pleasure, to contribute towards your domesticated idea, which, I must
say, is very original, and ntay, as you observe, prove useful ; but why
should we confine our culinary journal to breakfast only ? why not go
through the different meals of the day ? that is, after breakfast, the
luncheon ; then the nursery-dinner at One ; and here it strikes me that,
in that series, we might introduce some receipts, to be called Comforts
for Invalids ; even our servants' dinners and teas ; then the early din-
ner at two or three for people in business, the parlor-dinner at six, the
coffee after dinner, and even suppers for a small ball or evening party ;
but all on a moderate scale, leaving the aristocratic style entirely to its
proper sphere.

To show my approbation of your idea, I enclose herewith the first
receipt, How to make Toast.

BREAKFASTS.

WHEN we first commenced housekeeping, we were six in
family, five of whom breakfasted together, the three young

men in the shop, Mr. B , and myself. The cloth was

laid by the servant girl at half-past seven precisely ; at ten
minutes to eight I used to make tea, and at eight o'clock we
were seated at breakfast, which was composed merely of bread
and butter at discretion, fresh water cresses when plentiful, or
sometimes boiled eggs, and for variation, once a week, coffee,
and if in the winter, we had toast, which I never suffered any
servant to prepare more than five minutes before we were
seated, for, if standing any time, the dry toast becomes tough,
and the buttered very greasy, and consequently unpalatable,
as well as indigestible. Twenty minutes only was the time
allowed for breakfast, after which the table was cleared, the
cloth carefully folded and put by for the next morning, for we
kept a separate one for dinner, and imposed the fine of a half-
penny upon any one who should spill their tea or coffee over
the cloth by carelessness. Such was always my plan when in
business ; for you must know as well as myself, it is - not only
the expense of the washing, but the continual wear and tear
of the linen, which make such frequent washings so ruinous,
but my cloth used always to look clean, and I am confident
that not less than five pounds a-year were saved on that very
trifling matter, and you know we thought as much then of five
pounds as we perhaps now do of twenty.

Before partaking of a breakfast, you must provide the mate-
rials (which I always select of the best quality), and require to
know how to prepare them. I shall, therefore, give you a
series of every description of articles which may properly be
partaken of at the breakfast-table.

BREAKFASTS.

FIRST SERIES OF RECEIPTS.

Perhaps some housekeepers may laugh at the presumption of M.
Soyer in attempting to give a formal receipt for so trifling a matter as
making a piece of toast. But, in Cookery, there are no trifles. Every
preparation of food, however simple, requires thought, care, and expe-
rience. Among the unpleasantnesses of our breakfast-tables, there are
none more common than poor toast. ED.

1. Toast. Procure a nice square loaf of bread that has
been baked one or two days previously (for new bread cannot
be cut, and would eat very heavy), then with a sharp knife cut
off the bottom crust very evenly, and then as many slices as
you require, about a quarter of an inch in thickness (I gen-
erally use a carving-knife for cutting bread for toast, being lon-
ger in the blade, it is more handy, and less liable to waste the
bread) ; contrive to have rather a clear fire ; place a slice of the
bread upon a toasting-fork, about an inch from one of the sides,
hold it a minute before the fire, then turn it, hold it before the
fire another minute, by which time the bread will be thor-
oughly hot, then begin to move it gradually to and fro until
the whole surface has assumed a yellowish-brown color, when
again turn it, toasting "the other side in the same manner ; then
lay it upon a hot plate, have some fresh or salt butter (which
must not be too hard, as pressing it upon the toast would make
it heavy), spread a piece, rather less than an ounce, over, and
cut into four or six pieces ; should you require six such slices
for a numerous family, about a quarter of a pound of butter
would suffice for the whole ; but cut each slice into pieces as
soon as buttered, and pile them lightly upon the plate or dish
you intend to serve it. This way you will find a great im-
provement upon the old system, as often in cutting through
four or five slices with a bad knife, you squeeze all the butter
out of the upper one, and discover the under one, at the peril
of its life, swimming in an ocean of butter at the bottom of
the dish.

N.B. The warming of the bread gradually through, on both
sides, is a very great improvement upon the quality of the

BREAKFASTS. 9

toast ; it may give a trifle more trouble, but still it is quicker
done, and much lighter.

All kinds of toast require to be done the same way, but if
to be served under a bird, eggs, or kidneys, it requires to be
toasted drier.

Being in every way an economist, I have generally saved
the remnants of the loaf that have become too dry to be eaten
as bread, and by just dipping them in warm water, toasting
them gradually, and buttering them, I have generally found
that they have been eaten in preference, but their being stale
is a secret of my own, which, if divulged, would prevent their
ever being eaten after.

2. Dry Toast. Ought not to be toasted until quite ready
to serve ; when done, place it in a toast-rack, or standing upon
its edges, one piece resting against another ; any kind of toast
that has been made half an hour is not worth eating.

3. To toast Muffins (for Receipt, see No. 6.) Just open,
half an inch deep, the sides of the muffins, exactly in the cen-
tre, with a knife, then put your toasting-fork in the middle of
the bottom, hold it a little distance from the fire, until partly
warmed through, when turn it and put it again to the fire
until it becomes lightly toasted, when again turn it to toast the
other side ; when done, pull it open, spread a thin layer of but-
ter on each side, close them together ; lay them upon a plate,
then with a sharp knife divide them across the middle, and
serve very hot. If more than one muffin is required, cut them
all separately, and pile them lightly one upon another, on the
plate; when well prepared, they are, in my opinion, a very
great luxury, obtainable at a trifling expense.

4. To toast Crumpets. Crumpets stand lower in the gen-
eral estimation of the public, probably from not being so dis-
tingue, and having the misfortune to be cheaper than their
sister muffins ; but, for all that, the poor ought never to be for-
gotten, and a crumpet toasted as follows is not to be despised.
Choose your crumpets fresh if possible, though they are not
1*

10 BREAKFASTS.

bad after having been made three or four days ; toast them by-
warming both sides first, like muffins, then give them a nice
light brown color on each side, lay them in a plate, and spread
some rather soft butter lightly upon each side ; cut in halves
with a sharp knife, and serve ; half a pat of butter to each
crumpet is quite sufficient. If you have several to serve, lay
them separately upon a large hot dish ; some people lay them
one upon the other, which is a very bad plan, as it causes the
under ones to eat like a piece of dough, and such food cannot
be wholesome. Crumpets require to be toasted rather quick.

5. To make Rolls and other Breakfast Bread. Put four
pounds of flour into an earthen pan, make a hole in the cen-
tre, in which put three parts of a pint of warm water, to which
you add a gill of white brewer's yeast, free from bitter, mix a
little flour to form a leaven, which set in a warm place to rise
(it must be allowed to remain until the leaven has risen and
begun to fall), then add a little salt and a pint of warm milk,
form the whole into a flexible dough, which keep in a warm
place for another hour ; it is then ready, and may be moulded
into the form of rolls, twists, little crusty loaves, or any shapes
most pleasing for the breakfast-table.

6. To make Muffins. Mix a quart of warm water in which
you have dissolved a quarter of a pound of German yeast, with
sufficient flour to form a stiffish batter, which let remain in a
warm place four hours, then stir the mixture down, and break
it into pieces weighing a quarter of a pound each, which mould
round with your hands, and put into wooden trays containing
a round bed of flour for each ; let them remain in a warm
place two hours to prove, when have your muffin-stove hot ;
have a round piece of iron ; place on the fire to get hot ; set
the muffins upon it, and when nicely risen, turn them gently
over, baking them upon the stove until sufficiently set, when
they are done ; they will take about ten minutes baking if the
stove is at the proper heat, which is known by throwing a little
flour on it and becoming brown. Muffins may also be made
of brewer's yeast, but then they would require longer proving,
and great care must be taken that the yeast be not bitter.

BREAKFASTS. 11

7. To make Crumpets. Mix a gill of brewer's yeast, free
from bitter, with two quarts of water, just lukewarm, to which
add sufficient flour to make a thinnish batter, and let it stand
six hours in a warm place, when stir it well with a wooden
spoon, and let it remain four hours longer ; have the muffin-
stove hot, upon which lay a number of tin hoops, the size of
crumpets, pour a small ladleful of the batter into each hoop,
and when the top is covered with small bladders, turn them
quickly over (hoops and all) with a large palate knife, and hi
about five minutes afterwards they will be sufficiently baked.

8. Rusks. Put three pounds of flour upon a dresser, make
a hole in the middle, into which put two ounces of German
yeast, dissolved in a pint of warm water, mix a little of the
flour in, and leave it half an hour in a warm place to rise, then
add two ounces of powdered sugar, and a quarter of a pound
of butter, dissolved in half a pint of warm water ; mix the
whole into a dough, and let it remain in a warm place until
well risen, when work it down with the hands, divide it in
three pieces, each of which form into a long roll about two
inches in thickness, place them upon a buttered baking-sheet,
four inches apart, and put them in a warm place to prove, oc-
casionally moistening the tops with milk ; bake them in a mod-
erate oven ; when cold, cut them in slices the thickness of a
penny piece, which lay upon a clean baking-sheet, and put into
a warm oven, when well browned upon one side, turn them
over, put them again into the oven until the other side is
browned, when they are done and ready for use.

9. Tops and Bottoms. Make a dough exactly as described
in the last, but using only half the butter ; have a deep-
edged baking-sheet well buttered, and when the dough is ready,
turn it on to a dresser, well floured ; divide into small pieces
the size of walnuts, which mould into round balls, and place
close together upon the baking-sheet ; put them in a warm
place to prove, and bake well in a moderate oven ; when cold,
divide and cut each one in halves (making a top and bottom)
which brown in the oven as directed for rusks.

12 BREAKFASTS.

10. Buns. Put three pounds of flour in an earthen pan,
make a hole in the middle, in which put two ounces of German
yeast, dissolved in three parts of a pint of warm water, and stir
in a little of the flour, forming a thinnish batter, let it remain
in a warm place nearly an hour, until well fermented, when add
half a pound of sugar, a few currants, and half a pound of
butter, dissolved in nearly a pint of warm milk, mix the whole
well together, making a soft but dry dough ; let it remain in a
warm place until it rises very light, when turn it out of the
pan on to a board ; work it well with the hands, shaking flour
over lightly, then mould it into small round balls, double the
size of walnuts, which place upon a buttered baking-sheet, four
inches apart ; moisten the tops with milk ; put them in a warm
place to prove, not, however, permitting them to crack, and
bake them in a hot oven.

11. Brioche Rolls. Put four pounds of flour upon a dres-
ser, one pound of which put on one side, make a hole in the
middle into which pour nearly three parts of a pint of warm
water, in which you have dissolved an ounce of German yeast ;
mix it into a stiff but delicate paste, which roll up into a ball :
cut an incision across it, and lay it in a basin well floured, in a
warm place, until becoming very light, then make a large hole
in the centre of the three pounds of flour, into which put half
an ounce of salt, two pounds of fresh butter, half a gill of water,
and sixteen eggs, mix it into a rather softish flexible paste,
which press out flat, lay the leaven upon it, folding it over and
working with the hands until well amalgamated, flour a clean
cloth, fold the paste in it and let remain all night. In the
morning mould them into small rolls; put them upon a
baking-sheet, and bake in a moderate oven. Unless your
breakfast party is very large, half the above quantity would be
sufficient ; but these rolls being quite a luxury, I only make
them upon very especial occasions.

12. How to choose Eggs. New-laid eggs should not be
used until they have been laid about eight or ten hours, for
that part which constitutes the white is not properly set before
that time, and does not until then obtain their delicate flavor ;

BREAKFASTS. 13

that which is termed milk in eggs being, according to my opin-
ion, very insipid ; but that entirely depends upon fancy.

Nothing being more offensive than eggs in a state of decom-
position, it is very important that every person should know
how to detect them (especially in the winter), if, by shaking
them, they sound hollow, you may be certain they are not
new-laid, and not fit to be boiled for breakfast : but, if broken,
they may prove fit for any other culinary purpose, except for
souffles, for which eggs must be very fresh. The safest way to
try them is to hold them to the light, forming a focus with
your hand ; should the shell be covered with small dark spots,
they are veiy doubtful, and should be broken separately in a
cup, and each egg smelt previous to using ; if, however, in
looking at them, you see no transparency in the shells, you
may be sure they are rotten and only fit to be thrown away ;
the most precise way is, to look at them by the light of a can-
dle ; if quite fresh, there are no spots upon the shells, and they
have a brilliant light yellow tint ; in the spring of the year, it
would be scarcely excusable to use any eggs that are not quite
fresh.

13. Eggs for Breakfast, plain boiled. Put about a pint
of water to boil in any kind of small stewpan (or saucepan)
over the fire ; when boiling, put in two or three fresh eggs,
gently, with a spoon, being particular not to crack them or
allow them to boil too fast, or the interior of the eggs would
partly escape before they were set, giving them an unsightly
appearance, and entirely prevent their cooking regularly : three
minutes is sufficient to cook a full-sized egg, but if below the
average size, two minutes and a half will suffice.

14. Eggs au Beurre : a new method. Let the eggs boil six
minutes instead of three, then take them out, dip them for two
seconds in cold water, crack and peel off the shells, and lay
them in a hot plate (they will remain -quite whole if properly
done), cut each egg in halves lengthwise, spread a little fresh
butter and sprinkle a little salt over the interior, and eat them
very hot.

Eggs done in this manner are delicate and digestible.

14 BREAKFASTS.

15. To boil Eggs hard. Never boil eggs for salads, sauces,
or any other purposes, more than ten minutes, and when done
place them in a basin of cold water for five minutes to cool :
take off their shells, and use them when required.

Nothing is more indigestible than an egg too hard-boiled.

16. Poached Eggs. Put a pint of water in a stewpan, with
four teaspoonfuls of vinegar and half a teaspoonful of salt, place
it over the fire, and when boiling, break your eggs into it as
near the surface of the water as possible, let them boil gently
about three minutes ; have rather a thin piece of toast, as de-
scribed (No. l), upon a dish, take the eggs out carefully with
a small slice, lay the slice with the eggs upon a cloth for a
second to drain the water from them, set them carefully upon
the toast, and serve very hot. If the eggs are fresh they will
look most inviting, but the way of breaking and boiling them
must be most carefully attended to, and care should be taken
not to boil too many together ; if the yolks separate from the
white it may be presumed that the egg is not fresh, but it may
be eatable, for the same thing may happen through awkward-
ness in poaching.

Again, the toast upon which they are served may be but-
tered either with plain or maitre d'hotel butter, or two small
pats of butter may be melted, without boiling it, and poured
over, or a little melted butter sauce, or the same with the ad-
dition of a little maitre d'hotel butter poured over when just
upon the point of boiling, or a little anchovy butter instead of
the other ; thus you may be able to indulge in nice little luxu-
ries at a trifling expense.

17. Toast and Eggs. Break three eggs into a small stew-
pan, add a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter of that quantity of
pepper, and two ounces of fresh butter (the fresher the better),
set the stewpan over a moderate fire, and stir the eggs round
with a wooden spoon, being careful to keep every particle in
motion, until the whole has become a smooth and delicate
thickish substance ; have ready a convenient-sized crisp piece
of toast, pour the eggs upon it, and serve immediately.

18. Eggs sur le Plat. Lightly butter a small oval dish,

BREAKFASTS. 15

upon which break two, three, or more eggs without breaking
the yolks, season lightly with a little white pepper and salt,
put a few small pieces of butter here and there upon them, and
then set the dish in a small oven, where let it remain until the
whites become set, but by no means hard, and serve hot ; if
the oven is moderately hot, they will take about ten minutes ;
if no oven, put the dish before the fire, turning it round now
and then until the eggs are set regular. This is a most ex-
cellent dish.

19. Omelettes may also be served for breakfast with great
advantage, being very relishing, especially the omelettes aux
fines herbes, au lard, and aux champignons, but as they are
considered to belong to the dinner, they will be given in that
series of receipts.

20. Herring Toast Sandwich. Choose a bloater for this
purpose not too dry, which split in two, cutting it down the
back ; lay them upon a plate and pour a pint of boiling water
over ; let them soak five minutes, when lay them upon a cloth
to dry ; then broil them very gradually upon a gridiron ; when
well done, which will be in about four or five minutes, have
ready two thin slices of toast, made very crisp, butter them
lightly, then take away all the bones from the herrings, lay the
fleshy parts equally upon one piece of toast and cover with the
other : serve very hot.

21. Toast and Eggs with Herring. Prepare your toast and
eggs as directed (No. 17), but previous to pouring the eggs
over, lay the flesh of a herring as directed in the last, and pour
the eggs over that. Herrings upon toast, with a layer of
mashed potatoes over, is also very good.

Dried haddock may also be served the same, as also may
sardines, but they being ready-cooked, are laid over cold with-
out splitting them ; they are very delicious ; if wanted hot, set
them a few minutes before the fire.

22. Fish for Breakfast, Bloated Herrings. They require
to be freshly salted, for if dry they are quite rank and unpala-

16 BREAKFASTS.

table ; scrape them lightly with a knife, and wipe them well
with a cloth ; pass the point of a knife down the back from
head to tail, making an incision about a quarter of an inch in
depth ; place them upon the gridiron over a sharp fire ; they
will take about six minutes to cook, of course turning them
occasionally ; when done, put them upon a hot dish, open the
backs, and place half a small pat of butter in each ; again close
them : cooked this way they are delicious, especially if they are
real bloaters. Another way is to cut them quite open and
broil them flat upon the gridiron, and serve quite plain ; this
way they are done much more quickly. Or, if nice and fresh,
oil half a sheet of white paper for every fish, in which fold them
and broil fifteen minutes over a slow fire, turning them over
three or four times, and serve in the papers. Should you have
any that have become dry, soak them about twenty minutes in
lukewarm water, and proceed as first directed. (Same process
will do for red herrings.)

23. Dried Haddock. A very excellent thing for breakfast,
but they never ought to be cooked whole, for one side being
thinner than the other is of course dried up before the other is
much more than half done, especially the larger ones ; the bet-
ter plan is to cut them in halves lengthwise, put them upon
the gridiron over a moderate fire, keeping them frequently
turned, and taking the thinnest half off first ; the thickest will
require about ten minutes to cook it thoroughly ; when done,
spread a pat of fresh butter over, and serve upon a very hot
dish.

Haddocks may also be skinned and broiled in oiled paper,
but of course would take rather more time in cooking.

24. Whitings. Of all the modes of preparing and dressing
whitings for breakfast I cannot but admire and prize the system
pursued by the Scotch, which renders them the most light,
wholesome, and delicious food that could possibly be served for
breakfast : their method is, to obtain the fish as fresh as possi-
ble, clean and skin them, take out the eyes, cover the fish over
with salt, immediately after which take them out and shake off
the superfluous salt, pass a string through the eye-holes, and
hang them up to dry in a passage or some place where there

BREAKFASTS. 17

is a current of air ; the next morning take them off, just roll
them lightly in a little flour, broil them gently over a slov fire,
and serve very hot, with a small piece of fresh butter rubbed
over each, or serve quite dry if preferable.

25. Slips or Small Soles. When cleaned, season them
with a little pepper and salt, dip lightly into flour, and broil
them slowly over a moderate fire about ten minutes, or accord-
ing to the size ; when done, place them upon a hot dish, pour
two tablespoonfuls of cream over and serve immediately. They
may of course be served dry, but pouring the cream over is a
new and very good idea. Nothing but small white fish could
be tolerated for breakfast.

26. Sprats when nicely cooked are very commendable. Dip
them lightly into flour, and place them upon a gridiron over a
slow fire ; when about half done, turn them ; when done (which
would be in about five minutes from the time you put them on),
serve dry in a veiy hot dish.

27. Meat for Breakfast, Sheep's Kidneys. Procure as
many as you may require for your party, about one each is
generally sufficient; be sure that they are fresh, which any
person can ascertain by smelling, if not able to judge by their
appearance ; cut them open very evenly lengthwise, down to
the root, but not to separate them ; then have some small iron
or wooden skewers, upon which thread the kidneys quite flat,
by running the skewer twice through each kidney, that is, under
the white part ; season them rather highly with pepper and
salt, and place them upon a gridiron (the inside downwards),
over a sharp fire ; in three minutes turn them over, and in about
six they will be sufficiently done ; then take them off the skewers,
place them in a very hot dish, and serve immediately. In open-
ing them be careful to cut them in the centre, for should one
half be thicker than the other, one would be dried before the
other was sufficiently cooked.

28. Kidneys on Toast. Prepare tho kidneys precisely as in

18 BREAKFASTS.

the last, but when done have ready a piece of hot toast, which
butter lightly ; lay the kidneys upon it ; have ready a small
piece of butter, to which you have added a little pepper, salt,
and the juice of half a lemon ; place a small piece in the centre
of each kidney, and when melted serve.

29. Kidney bread-crumbed, a la Maitre d 1 Hotel. Prepare
the kidneys as before, and when upon the skewer, have ready
upon a plate an egg well beat up with a fork ; season the kid-
neys with a little salt and pepper, dip them into the egg, then
lightly cover them with bread-crumbs, put them upon the grid-
iron, which place over a moderate fire, broil them about ten
minutes, turning them when half done, have ready a little maitre
d'hdtel butter, put about half an ounce in each kidney, and
serve immediately upon a very hot dish ; by the time it gets
upon the table the butter will be melted, and they eat very
relishing ; dressed this way they may also be served upon toast.

30. Sauted Kidneys. Should you not have a fire fit for
broiling, put an ounce of butter into a saute-pan (which of course
must be very clean), cut the kidney in halves lengthwise ; and
when the butter is melted, lay them in, the flat side downwards,
having previously well seasoned them with pepper and salt ; set
the pan on a moderate fire three minutes, then turn them, place
them again upon the fire until done ; when have ready a piece
of dry toast, which place upon a hot dish, pour the kidneys with
the butter and gravy over and serve very hot, care must be taken
in sauteing that the butter does not become burnt.

Another way is to sprinkle about a teaspoonful of chopped
eschalots, or onions, over them whilst being sauted ; this mate-
rially changes the flavor, and meets the approbation of many.

For the cooking of mutton chops, steaks, cutlets, broiled fowl,
broiled bones, or remnants of poultry or game, I must refer you
to where they are given as receipts for the dinner-table.

31. Bacon and Ham, how to choose both Jit for broiling.
Ham for broiling ought not to be too old or too dry, it would
perhaps eat rank : nothing requires more care than broiling.

BREAKFASTS. 19

Either get a slice of ham weighing a quarter of a pound or two
ounces, which lay on your gridiron ; put them over the fire ; it
will take perhaps fiv^ minutes, if the fire is good, and more, of
course, if slow, but in that short space of time turn them three
or four times, and it is done. Proceed the same if you want to
serve it with poached eggs, but be careful that the eggs be ready
at the same time as the bacon or ham, or both would eat badly.
If you happen to have a whole ham by you for that purpose
only, begin to cut the slices in a slanting direction and the same
thickness, and proceed to the end of the ham with the remainder ;
it will prove more profitable to broil with greens, peas, broad
beans, &c., &c.

To saute it, put a little butter or good fat in the pan ; set it
on the fire with your slice in it, saute very gently, turning very
often, and serve it on very thin toast.

32. Ham and Eggs. While your ham is doing, break two
fresh eggs in the pan, season slightly with salt and pepper, set
it before the fire till the eggs are delicately done, and slip them
whole carefully into your dish, without breaking the yolk.

33. Bacon. The streaky part of a thick flank of bacon is
to be preferred ; cut nice slices not above a quarter of an inch
thick, take off the rind, put to broil on the gridiron over a
clear fire, turn it three or four times in the space of five
minutes ; this will be all the cooking required : serve it very
hot. Though this is the best part, the whole of the bacon is
still good, especially if not rank, which can be easily detected
by its yellowish color : if too dry or salt, after it has been cut
in slices, dip it into a little vinegar and water three or four
times, and saute as usual, it will make it softer and less salt :
serve as usual. If any remain after a dinner of boiled bacon,
it is also very good broiled or fried for next day's breakfast.

34. Sausages. Sausages are very frequently esteemed for
breakfast. By all means, never use them, except you are con-
fident that they are fresh. The skin must be transparent, that
the meat should be seen through ; they keep good two or three

20 BREAKFASTS.

days in a cold place in summer, nearly a week in winter (with
care). For the receipt how to make them in the homely way,
see future letter.

35. Sausages, how to cook them. Prick them with a pin
all round about twenty times, put them on the gridiron over a
gentle fire, turn three or four times, by doing which you will
have them a very nice yellow color ; dish them, and serve them
very hot.

36. Sauted Sausages. If your fire smokes, it is preferable
to saute them ; put some butter in the pan, with four sausages ;
after you have pricked them as before mentioned, saute gently,
a few minutes will do them, turn them often ; in many in-
stances a thin slice of bread sauted in the fat they have pro-
duced is a great improvement ; save the fat, as it is always
useful in a kitchen. In case you are in a hurry to do them,
throw them into hot water for one minute previously to their
being broiled or sauted ; they will then be the sooner cooked,
and even eat rather more relishing to a delicate stomach, having
extracted the oil from the skin ; they may also be fried in the
frying-pan.

37. Black Puddings, broiled. Make about six or eight in-
cisions through the skin with a knife, in a slanting way, on each
side of the pudding ; put it on the gridiron for about eight
minutes, on rather a brisk fire, turn it four times in that space
of time, and serve it broiling hot.

I should recommend those who are fond of black puddings
to partake of no other beverage than tea or coffee, as cocoa or
chocolate would be a clog to the stomach. In France they
partake of white wine for breakfast, which accounts for the
great consumption of black pudding. Now really this is a
very favorite dish with epicures, but I never should recommend
it to a delicate stomach.

ON COFFEE. Coffee, which has now come so generally into use,
originally came from Arabia, where it has been known from time im-

BREAKFASTS. 21

memorial, but was brought into use in England in the year 1653 ; as it
is not generally known how it was introduced, I will give you the ac-
count of it from "Houghton's Collection," 1698. "It appears that a
Mr. Daniel Edwards, an English Merchant of Smyrna, brought with
him to this country a Greek of the name of Pasqua, in 1652, who
made his coffee ; this Mr. Edwards married one Alderman Hodges's
daughter, who lived in Walbrook, and set up Pasqua for a coffee-man
in a shed in the churchyard in St. Michael, Cornhill, which is now a
scrivener's brave-house, when, having great custom, the ale-sellers peti-
tioned the Lord Mayor against him, as being no freeman. This made
Alderman Hodges join his coachman. Bowman, who was free, as Pasqua's
partner ; but Pasqua, for some misdemeanor, was forced to run the coun-
try, and Bowman, by his trade and a contribution of 1000 sixpences,
turned the shed to a house. Bowman's apprentices were first, John
Painter, then Humphrey, from whose wife I had this account." Having
examined the renter churchwarden's book of St. Michael, Cornhill, I
find that the house or shed Bowman built is now part of the Jamaica
Coffee-House; it was rebuilt by Bowman, after the fire, in 1667.

It is a very remarkable fact that but few persons in England know
how to make good coffee, although so well supplied with the first qual-
ity of that delicious berry ; but, by way of contrast, I must say that
the middle classes of France are quite as ignorant of the method of
making tea.

I remember, upon one occasion, whilst staying at Havre with Mr. B.,
where we were upon a visit at the house of one of his agents, who in-
vited a few of his friends to meet us at a tea-party d PAnglaise, as they
used to call it, about an hour previous to tea, and previous to the arri-
val of the guests, I was walking upon the lawn before the house, when
my attention was attracted by a cloud of steam issuing from the kitchen-
window, smelling most powerfully of tea : my curiosity led me to the
kitchen, where I found the cook busily engaged making cocoa and most
delicious coffee, but preparing the tea in a ridiculous fashion, the leaves
of which were in an awful state of agitation, attempting as it were to
escape from an earthen pot at the side of the fire, in which the deli-
cious soup we had for dinner was made a few hours previously. (See
Pot-au-Feu.)

" My dear girl," said I (in French), " what process do you call that of
making tea ? it never ought to be boiled."

" I beg your pardon, Madame," says she, " master and mistress like it
well done, and it will be another short half-hour before it is properly
cooked (ce sera alors copieux)."

" You are decidedly wrong," said I, " and I shall be most happy to
show you the way we make it in England."

" Yes, I know what you mean, Madame," replied she ; " I used to
make it that way before, but no one liked it, that is, to boil it one hour
in a copper-pan over a charcoal fire." Upon which I retired, making a
most comical grimace, to refrain from laugliing at her still more ridicu-
lous fashion.

You must, however, observe that this occurred nearly twelve years
ago, and I have no doubt but a reform has taken place since then by

22 BREAKFASTS.

the continual traffic of the English through that part of the country.
I must say, with respect to ourselves, we do not make quite such a
blunder respecting coffee, but still our middle classes very seldom
enjoy the aroma of that delicious beverage, which should be made as
follows :

Choose the coffee of a very nice brown color, but not black (which
would denote that it was burnt, and impart a bitter flavor) ; grind it at
home if possible, as you may then depend upon the quality ; if ground
in any quantity, keep it in a jar hermetically sealed. To make a pint,
put two ounces into a stewpan, or small iron or tin saucepan, which set
dry upon a moderate fire, stirring the coffee round with a wooden
spoon continually until it is quite hot through, but not in the least
burnt ; should the fire be very fierce, warm it by degrees, taking it off
every now and then until hot (which would not be more than two min-
utes), when pour over a pint of boiling water, cover close, and let it
stand by the side of the tire (but not to boil) for five minutes, when
strain it through a cloth or a piece of thick gauze, rinse out the stew-
pan, pour the coffee (which will be quite clear) back into it, place it
upon the fire, and, when nearly boiling, serve with hot milk if for
breakfast, but with a drop of cold milk or cream if for dinner.

To prove the simplicity of this mode of making coffee, I shall here
give a repetition of the receipt as it actually is :

38. Put two ounces of ground coffee into a stewpan, which
set upon the fire, stirring the powder round with a spoon until
quite hot, when pour over a pint of boiling water ; cover over
closely for five minutes, when pass it through a cloth, warm
again, and serve.*

* This entirely new system of making coffee has never yet been introduced to
the public, and was found out by the author of this work through the following
circumstance: Whilst travelling by night in a railway train, and arriving in due
time at the station, where positively no less than five minutes are allowed to restore
exhausted nature, after a long and tedious journey, and then, by using a certain
portion of manual strength, to push through the crowd to get at what is called the
refreshment room, after waiting for nearly two minutes for my turn to be served
with some of the boiling liquid which they called coffee, being as bad as any human
being could possibly make it, having probably waited patiently by the side of a
winter's fire until the last train made its appearance, it tasted anything but palata-
ble ; but having a long journey before me, and requiring something to eat and
drink, I was obliged to put up with it; but before I could even partake of half, or
finish masticating some stale toast or over-buttered muffin, the unsociable bell vio-
lently rung to acquaint the passengers that their appetites were perfectly satisfied,
though that incredulous organ would not let us believe it ; and every one being
perfectly aware that railway trains, like time, wait for no one, the hurry of which
event, though unpleasant, made me escape the swallowing the thick part which
was deposited at the bottom of the cup ; rushing out of the refreshment room, I
jumped into the wrong carriage, the fidgetty train having changed its place, and
the time being too short to rectify the mistake, I was obliged to make fresh ac-
quaintance with my new compagnons de voyage, who happened to be as much
dissatisfied with the stearaing-hot refreshment as myself, who had patronized the
steaming Mocha. I was at last much pleased to find a wise man among my new
travelling friends, who said, " I never travel at night without being provided with
a spirited companion ;" and pulling out of his carpet-bag a small bottle and gutta-

BREAKFASTS. 23

The foregoing proportions would make coffee good enough for any
person, but more or less coffee could be used, if required ; the cloth
through which it is passed should be immediately washed and put by
for the next occasion. A hundred cups of coffee could be made as here
directed in half an hour, by procuring a pan sufficiently large, and
using the proper proportions of coffee and water, passing it afterwards
through a large cloth or jelly- bag.

39. Coffee, French fashion. To a pint of coffee, made as
before directed, add a pint of boiling inilk, warm both together
until nearly boiling, and serve. The French never use it any
other way for breakfast.

40. White Coffee, a new style. Put two ounces of un-
ground coffee, slightly roasted, into a clean stewpan, which set
upon a moderate fire, slowly warming the coffee through,
shaking the stewpan round every half-minute ; when very hot,
which you will perceive by the smoke arising from it, pour over
half a pint of boiling water, cover the stewpan well, and let it
infuse by the side of the fire for fifteen minutes, then add half a
pint of boiling-hot milk, pass the coffee through a small fine
sieve into the coffee-pot or jug, and serve with white sugar-
candy or crystallized sugar ; it is, as you will perceive, a great
novelty, and an agreeable change ; but if by neglect you let
the coffee get black, or the least burnt, do not attempt to make
use of it ; it should only be sufficiently charred to break easily
hi a mortar if required.

percha goblet of new invention, we partook of a drop of the best eau de vie I had
ever tasted, which produced -on me the pleasant sensation of being relieved of a very
annoying pain. Grateful for his kindness, and always desirous to improve the do-
mestic comfort, I told him, in making myself known, that, as soon as I arrived
at the Reform Club, I would try several experiments to simplify the present method
of making coffee ; and should I be successful in my researches, I would forward
him the receipt on my arrival in London. I tried to find my first travelling friends,
who, more unfortunate than myself, got in their proper place, and, consequently,
did not meet with the "spirited" friend 1 did, vowing they would never take any
more coffee at night, especially in a railway train. Having forwarded the receipt
to my friend, he, after having tried it, wrote me the following note :

" MY DEAR SIR, -I have made an experiment of your new receipt for coffee,
which you have kindly forwarded to me, and beg to acquaint you that I never re-
collect having tasted better. Yours, &c. W. C."

I do strongly advise my readers to give it a trial, and recommend all providers
of refreshment at railway stations not to make the coffee boiling hot, but to keep
the cafetiere in a bain-marie, which would avoid all the above inconvenience, both
as regards quality and heat.

24 BREAKFASTS.

41. Coffee, made with a filter. To make a quart ; first
put a pint of boiling water through the filter to warm it, which
again pour away, then put a quarter of a pound of ground
coffee upon the filter, upon which put the presser lightly, and
the grating, pour over half a pint of boiling water, let it drain
three or four minutes, then pour over a pint and a half more
boiling water ; when well passed through, pour it into a clean
stewpan, which set at the corner of the fire until a light scum
arises, but not boiling ; pour it again through the filter, and
when well drained through, pour into the coffee-pot, and serve
with hot milk, or a little cream, separately.

42. Another way, more economical. Proceed as in the last,
but draining the coffee through once only, and serve, after
which pour another quart of boiling water over the coffee-
grounds, which, when drained through, reserve, and boil up for
the next coffee you make, using it instead of water, and an
ounce less coffee.

TEA is, without doubt, one of the most useful herbs ever introduced
into England, which was in the year of the fire of London, 1666 : it
has replaced an unwholesome and heavy drink (ale) which used to be
partaken of previously, and has created habits of sobriety. It is indi-
genous to China, Japan, and Siam, and consists of many varieties, the
proper mixing of which constitutes the great art of a tea-dealer. It
is exceedingly useful in many cases of sickness, and particularly after
having partaken of any liquor to excess, or after extraordinary fatigue.
When new, it is a narcotic ; but when old it has a different effect,* and
in its native country is never partaken of until a year old, and not then,
unless exceedingly desiccated. I cannot recommend you any one in
particular, as that depends on taste ; but this I advise, that when you
have a kind to your liking, to keep to it.

And now, my dear friend, without wishing in the least to offend you,
or attempting to aggravate your good nature, I must beg to contradict
your assertion made at the commencement of our undertaking, where
you say, respecting tea, of course I know how to make it ; you made it
whilst staying at our house occasionally, and Mr. B. found there was a
great difference between it and mine. But to tell you the truth respecting
tea, I have a little secret of my own, being a discovery which I made a

* Some few years since, having a great deal of writing to do within a certain
time, and which could not be done wi'hout employing the night as well as ihe day,
I partook of weak green tea, with a little brandy, sugar, and lemon-juice in i r , as a
beverage, and, with light food, I was enabled to do with but eighteen hours' sleep
from 8 o'clock on Monday morning to 5 o'clock on the following Sunday morning.

BREAKFASTS. 25

short time ago by accident. Whilst in the act of making tea, I had
just put the dry tea in the pot, when I heard a fearful scream up-stairs
in the drawing-room ; rushing there, I found my little girl had had a
severe fall in reaching something from the chimney-piece, the stool upon
which she stood having upset : twenty minutes at least had elapsed be-
fore I returned to my tea (which, being alone, I was in no particular
hurry for), when I found that the servant, tliinking there was water in
the pot, and fearing the tea would be spoiled, put it into the oven, which
was rather hot ; when she brought it to me, I was rather annoyed, when
all at once it struck me that the leaves being hot through, the tea would
not require so long to draw ; I then filled the teapot with boiling water,
and in a minute afterwards had a most delicious cup of tea, since which
I have adopted the system upon all occasions, and am now having made
a small spirit-lamp to warm the pot and leaves, as the oven is not al-
ways hot : it may, however, be made hot in front of the fire, but not
too close of course. I gave the receipt to one of our neighbors, who
actually laughed at the idea, but never tried it, saying, " We cannot
teach anything to our grandmothers, and that what did for them would
do for us." Now what could you say to such people ? why nothing, but
let them alone, as I shall do for the future. But you, my dear, I know
have better sense ; proceed as I have directed, and you will find it a
great improvement. Put your tea in the pot a quarter of an hour be-
fore ready for it, warming both tea and pot, fill with boiling water, and
leave it from three to five minutes to draw, when it is quite ready.

CACAO was first known in Europe after the discovery of America,
and it retains its Indian name ; of course, it was first used in Spain, and
did not come into use in England until much later ; and we find that
there was imported into England, in the year 1694, about 13,000 Ibs.
weight of it ; at the present day there was, in 1848, 410,000 Ibs. It is
a long fruit, about five to eight inches, and three or four thick, which
contains about thirty nuts : the tree grows to only a few feet in height.

In the course of my experiments, I have found that the shell is al-
most as nutritious as the kernel, with less oily particles in it, which,
to many, are unpleasant.

43. Chocolate. Scrape two ounces of the cake, which put into
a stew or saucepan, with a gill of water, upon the fire, keeping
it stirred with a wooden spoon until rather thick, when work it
quickly with the spoon, stirring in half a pint of boiling milk
by degrees ; serve very hot, with sugar separate.

44. Chocolate made in the Italian method. Procure a regu-
lar chocolate-pot with a muller, the handle of which comes
through the lid, one might be procured at any brazier's, put hi

26 BREAKFASTS.

two ounces of chocolate (scraped), over which by degrees pour
a pint of boiling milk, put on the lid, with the muller inside,
which keep well moving, setting the pot upon the fire, and
when very hot and frothy, serve.

45. Cocoa. Put a teaspoonful and a half of canistered co-
coa into a cup, which fill by degrees with boiling milk, stir it
until dissolved, when it is ready to serve ; sugar separately.

LETTER No. III.

Oatlands Cottage, Jan. 20, 1849.

DEAR HORTENSE, I have inclosed the whole of the receipts which
you have sent me for the breakfasts, properly classified, having omitted
the cold meats (as you desired me) from this series, thinking, as you do,
they are more suited for the luncheon. To save useless repetition, I
have placed the receipts in numbers, by which references can be easily
made, and any dish appearing in the dinner or luncheon series, but
available for breakfast, can be directly found.

But one tiling I remember when at your house was, that when the
remains of a joint were rather large, you used to put it upon a side
table, and let any one help themselves from it there ; your idea being,
I believe, that very few persons liked to have a large dish of meat be-
fore their eyes almost immediately after rising from their beds, or at
the first meal of the morning. Respecting the way your table was laid
out, to the best of my recollection, it was as follows : First the large
table-cloth, over which was laid a small napkin before each person, with
cups and saucers for tea or coffee, at choice, small plates for rolls, and
a size larger for meat, sausages, eggs, <fcc., a small knife and fork for each ;
the butter in a pretty freezing butter-glass, just covered with clear
spring water, and garnished with a few sprigs of parslev or water-
cresses ; the cream in a small china cream-jug, and a larger jug contain-
ing hot milk for coffee ; orange marmalade in its original pot, honey-
comb, watercresses, and once a few nice young radishes, which were
excellent, although a little out of season ; one day also dry toast was
served, another day buttered, the next muffins, then crumpets, white
and brown bread, and small rolls, thus making a continual change, but
all so small and inviting. I shall always, when I have company, as you
had then, arrange every tiling in the same manner, especially now that
I have your receipts down. But when you are alone, you tell me, you
never make any such display, which of course would be ridiculous ;
still even then you vary, by having either tea, coffee, or chocolate, which

EARLY LUNCHEONS. 2*7

change I like as well as you. I eat meat but occasionally, but Mr.

L generally likes a little broiled bacon, or boiled egg, things in

themselves very simple and pleasant to have upon the table. Yours,
in haste, ELOISK.

EARLY LUNCHEONS.

LETTER No. IV.

MY DEAR FRIEND, I feel perfectly satisfied with the manner in which
you have classified my receipts respecting the breakfasts, and must say
I felt very much interested in looking over them ; I am confident they
would prove interesting and instructive to any young housekeeper ; I
hope, therefore, you will preserve the originals, as I do not keep any
copies, fearing they would confuse me by making reference to them ; so
that, if at any future time I should make a repetition in other series,
you would be able to correct me, for I am as willing as yourself that
we should complete our work by going through every series comprising
meals of the day.

The next meal, then, to breakfast, in the ordinary course of events, ia
the luncheon. Although it is a meal we never touch ourselves, I am
aware many small families make it a regular one, so our little journal
would not be complete without some few remarks, which I intend mak-
ing as short and concise as possible. When we were in business, our
luncheons were comprised of any cold meats which were cooked for
previous dinners ; if a joint of cold roast or boiled meat, it requires to
be nicely trimmed before making its appearance at table, but reserving
the trimmings for hash, if of roast meat, or bubble-and-squeak, if salt
beef, which is an excellent method of disposing of the remainder of a
joint to advantage ; if the joint happened to be cold veal, I used to send
for a plate of ham to serve with it, unless there was a piece of bacon
also left ; if mutton, I used to dish up the leg with a pretty little paper
frill upon the knuckle, also trimming the joint lightly, for you must be
aware that, after four or five have dined from a leg of mutton, its ap-
pearance becomes quite spoiled, and looks blackish when cold. Pork I
also serve the same ; when parsley was cheap, I always laid a few
branches round it, which used, as my visitors said, to make the meat
look very refreshing and inviting. Our only addition was sometimes
the remainder of game, which at that time used frequently to be pre-
sented to us pheasants, partridges, or grouse ; as it would then have
been very extravagant to have purchased them, especially when they
were so expensive. As an accompaniment to the meat, I always kept
two different sorts of mixed pickles, good bread, butter, cheese, and a
glass of excellent table ale ; or, if our guest was some bosom friend or
good customer, a bottle of sherry (not decantered), never any port,

28 THE NURSERY DINNER.

thinking that more fit for the dinner-table. Such was my plan in the
first five years after my marriage : everything upon our table was of
the first quality, and every one used to admire the neatness with which
the table was laid out.

My method now, when luncheon is required (as we do not dine until
half-past five o'clock, Mr. B. being engaged until four in the city), I have
the cloth laid at twelve, and lunch at half-past ; and that time being
just after the nursery dinner, we generally have some sort of pudding
or tart, made at the same time with theirs. For cold meat, I always
serve that up which has been left from a previous dinner, if any, or
any remains of poultry, game, ham, or tongue. When, however, we
have six or eight friends from the country at Christmas, I feel proud to
show them my style of doing things well and economically, for they are
very intelligent people, and can appreciate good living, though at home
they really live too plain for their incomes ; but they say, " We do not
understand how it is that you make a nice little dHi almost out of
nothing." For should I have the remnants of any poultry or game not
very inviting to the sight, I generally cut it up and show my cook how
to hash it in a variety of ways ; and I always remark, that they never
partake of any cold meat whilst any of the hash remains. For the
methods of making various hashes of fowl, game, hare, rabbit, beef,
mutton, as also curries, minced veal and poached eggs, cold pies of
game, poultry, mutton, beefsteak, or pigeon, as also plain mutton cut-
lets, steaks, and broiled bones, the whole of which may be served for
luncheon, I must refer you to the series of receipts belonging to the
dinner ; any of these articles are placed in order upon the table, with the
pickle-stand, two different cruet-sauces, orange marmalade, potatoes,
butter, cheese, sherry and port wines. This style of luncheon will no
doubt surprise you, but I can assure you it scarcely increases my ex-
penditure, having the same number to provide for daily, so that the
luncheon is generally made up from the remains of dinner, and the re-
mains of luncheon will dine our three servants at half-past one. In the
summer, I introduce a few dishes of fruit, and less meat ; and when
there are several ladies, I often introduce some English-made wine,
which once I used to make myself, but which I can now buy cheaper.

THE NURSERY DINNER.

LETTER No. V.

DEAR FRIEND, Now here I must call your especial attention to the
way many people treat this department of domestic comfort, which is
often very slight and irregular. Now, for my part, I have made quite

THE NURSERY DINNER. 29

a study of it, and could prove that health is always dependent on the
state of the digestive organs ; and that, if you should improperly treat
young stomachs, by over or under supplying their wants, or using them
to ill-cooked food, you not only destroy the functionary coating of the
stomach, but also impede the development of the intellect. It is, then,
as much a science to manage the food of children, as to cater for the
palate of the gourmet, and I shall always consider that good food is to
the body what education is to the mind.

My plan of managing the nursery meals is as follows : At eight
o'clock in the morning, which was my usual time, I used myself to pre-
pare that glutinous food upon which our ancestors and race were first
reared, rather unclassically denominated pap. My method was very
simple :

46. Put two ounces of rusk, or tops and bottoms, in a
small saucepan, with just sufficient water to moisten them ; set
the saucepan upon the fire until its contents are thoroughly
warmed through ; pour a little of the water away, if too thin,
pressing the rusk with a spoon ; then add a teaspoonful of
brown sugar, and beat the whole with a spoon until quite a
pulp ; it is then ready for use.

I have seen some poor people in the country make it with a stale piece
of bread, previously well dried and lightly toasted before the fire, and
you could scarcely tell the difference from rusks ; and you must ob-
serve, that people in a country village cannot always supply themselves
with everything in the way of luxury ; but look at the greater part of
those country urchins, are they not a real picture of health ? for, after
all, nothing is more advantageous to a delicate child than country air
and country food. When Mr. B. and myself were staying at Boulogne
for a few weeks, I was astonished to hear that everybody used to put
their children out to nurse. I was so surprised, that I made every inquiry,
and found it literally true, that even respectable tradespeople sent
their children a mile or two in the country, some to the houses of very
poor people : I cannot say that I approve of such a style of bringing
up infants, but even there they seem as healthy and as joyful as pos-
sible. I also found there something to be learned, and that was, how to
make French pap, which I think very nutritious, but which I considered
at the time rather heavy for our climate ; but having afterwards made
a trial of it upon our little Henry, I found him doing so extremely well,
that I continued feeding him upon it for nearly eight months, until he
was old enough to eat other food. The following is the receipt :

47. Put a tablespoonful of flour into a pap saucepan, to
which add by degrees two gills of milk, mixing it into a very
smooth batter with a wooden spoon ; place the saucepan upon
the fire, let it boil ten minutes, keeping it stirred the whole time,

30 THE NURSERY DINNER.

or it is liable to burn or become brown, then add about half
an ounce of sugar and a little salt, put it into a basin, and it is
ready for use. A little butter is also very good in it.

You will observe, that it is more difficult and troublesome to make
than our pap ; but when used to it, you will expend no more time over
it ; and, as the French people say, cooking is all pleasure and no trouble.
But what convinces me that it is more palatable and nutritious is, that
I have seen a very robust man make a hearty dinner of two plates of it
by introducing bread in it. I have no doubt that our own hasty pudding
was taken from it, for the use of children of three or four years old,
being thought too heavy for infants. These long details may appear
rather insignificant and tedious to you, but I leave them to your good
judgment, begging of you to curtail my remarks should you think pro-
per ; but, although you may consider that every person is acquainted
with these domestic habits, you would find upon inquiry that very many
persons neglect them almost entirely. Having written thus much
upon the food of infants, we must next consider the proper diet for
children of twelve months old, commencing with bread and milk.

48. For which, cut about two ounces of any white bread
into small thin slices, which put into a small basin or a large
breakfast cup, in a little saucepan (only used for that purpose)
have half a pint of milk, which, when upon the point of boil-
ing, pour over the bread ; cover the cup over five minutes, and
it is ready for use.

I much prefer this method to that of boiling the bread and milk to-
gether. In first commencing to feed a child upon the above, I always
added a little sugar, which I withdrew by degrees, as I do not like to
accustom children to too much sweets, as it inclines them when a little
older to be always wanting or eating sweet stuff, which often spoils the
best set of teeth ; and here let me remark, that the finest fortune you
can give to your children is health, and as loving mothers, whilst we
have them under our control, it is our duty to study their little com-
forts, and direct their first steps in life in the road of happiness.

49. Porridge. When children are delicate, porridge is often
preferable to bread and milk. Put two tablespoonfuls of
Scotch grits or oatmeal in the milk saucepan, which moisten
with half a pint of milk ; let it boil ten minutes, keeping well
stirred, add a small piece of butter and a little sugar, and it is
ready for use.

When my children were about eighteen months or two years old, I
used to give them a little tender meat, such as boiled mutton, and broth,

THE NURSEIIY DINNER. 31

but in very small quantities, keeping still for the general food the bread
and milk and porridge ; but now they are old enough to eat anything
wholesome (one being nine and the other ten years of age), their meals
are composed thus :

50. Bread and milk for breakfast at eight ; the dinner at
one, which was composed as follows throughout the week :
roast mutton and apple pudding, roast beef and currant pud-
ding, baked apples ; boiled mutton with turnips, after which
rice or vermicelli pudding ; occasionally a little salt beef, with
suet dumplings, plain and with currants in them, or pease pud-
ding ; or if unwell, a little veal or chicken-broth, or beef-tea
(the receipts for which will be found in the series entitled Com-
forts for Invalids).

When in business, the first three years we could not afford to keep
a nursery, in fact, we had no room to spare ; the children then used to
dine with us at one, but at a side-table with their nurse.

51. They then had a little plain meat, cut small in
their plates, with potatoes, pieces of bread, and gravy, after
which, three times a week, plain rice, bread, or other plain
pudding, or rhubarb or apple tart ; and, at five o'clock, their
bread and milk again, previous to going to bed.

But if for people who could afford it, I should recommend the follow-
ing diet-table, for nurserymaid and all :

52. First, about two pounds of mutton well-cooked, but
with the real gravy of the meat in it, which will require about
one hour before a moderate fire, dredge it ten minutes before
being done ; when taken up and in the dish, sprinkle a little
salt over the meat, and pour over three or four spoonfuls of
hot water to make a little light gravy.

Many persons will, I am aware, quite disapprove of this system of
washing the meat : they would serve it as if it were for full-grown people,
but you well know what would do for children as well as I plain, sim-
ple, and wholesome food ; I always carried out this system, and I now
make my cook do the same.

53. Then the next day I would give them a small piece of
mutton, plain boiled, with turnips, and apple tart ; or a few
slices of roast beef, or a small piece roasted on purpose, after

32 THE NURSERY DINNER.

which a very plain currant pudding ; or, occasionally, a little
pickled pork, with pease pudding, or roast pork, with baked
apples, and now and then a little salt beef, but very well
boiled, with suet dumplings, and occasionally, for change, either
bread, vermicelli, or tapioca puddings ; in* case of illness, and
with the approbation of the doctor, veal, mutton, or chicken-
broth, sago, gruel, panada, <kc., for which refer to the receipts
for invalids.

Now the more I write the more I am convinced that, for the method
of preparing certain articles for the children's dinners, we must refer to
the kitchen department of receipts and receipts for invalids, especially
as regards broth, meat, puddings, <fec., or otherwise we should have so
many repetitions ; so that it would be better, upon the completion of
the journal, to make references, either by numbers of receipt or page ;
it will be more inteUigible, and less confused.

Many people would, perhaps, imagine that there is too much variety
of food for children ; but it is quite the contrary, for change of food is
to the stomach what change of air is to the general health, but, of course,
with children, those changes must be effected with judgment, and their
food administered in smaller quantities ; but you must observe when
children are well brought up with regard to their meals, they possess
extraordinary organs of digestion, the proof of which is that they require
feeding oftener than a full-grown person, and never appear to be tired
of eating, thus, of course, they do not require such quantities at a time.
Having here terminated my remarks upon the Nursery, I shall leave
this scene of romp and confusion, to walk on tip-toe to the sick-room
door, and carefully enter, without noise, into this mournful abode of
human suffering and captivity, in hopes that, by watching over their
diet, my small efforts may improve their comforts, which, by being
properly managed, may assist in their restoration to health. I shall,
therefore, proceed to give some receipts, entitled Comforts for Invalids.

Nothing is to me more painful than to see any food ill-prepared for
sick people, where the sense of taste is partially gone ; everything ordered
by the doctors as food, should be cooked in the greatest perfection, espe-
cially as everything they require is so very simple and easily done, that
it is unpardonable to do it badly, although I am sorry to say that it is
too often the case, even in many of our first hospitals and other public
establishments, where they have provisions in abundance, and of the
first quality.

Perhaps you may fancy I am too severe upon that delicate subject,
but I can assure you that I have for years been in the habit of visiting
some of these institutions for the sick, and can therefore speak with con-
fidence. I have grieved often to see it, and have wished that they
would foUow a system I would lay down, but there are some people
who would not change their style, however bad, for a better one, for
the world.

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 33

Now I must here claim all jour intelligence, for pointing out those
receipts the accomplishing of which is most plain, and will insure success
to those who may try to do them, and cause them to persuade others
to follow their example. I therefore inclose the following. Yours, &c.

HORTENSE.

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

54. Meat for Invalids. The best meat as food for invalids
is, in fact, that which is principally used, mutton and beef, lamb,
if not too young (sweetbreads, I consider, ought oftener to be
introduced), and calves' feet or head, scalded and boiled until
tender, are very nutritious ; chickens, pigeons, partridges, are
also very inviting. All the above-mentioned articles are easy
of digestion, excepting perhaps the beef, which may require to
be gently stewed until tender, if for a delicate stomach ju&t
ordered to take meat after a serious fit of illness.

55. Plain Mutton Broth for Invalids. Get one pound of
scrag of mutton, break the bone with a chopper, without sepa-
rating the meat, then put it into a stewpan with three pints of
water and a salt-spoonful of salt ; boil gently two hours, care-
fully removing all the scum and fat, which is easily done by
allowing it to simmer slowly by the side of the fire ; it will be
by that time reduced to about one quart, and is then ready to
serve. This broth must not be expected to drink very palata-
ble, being deprived of vegetables and seasoning, being in fact
more like a beverage than a soup : at the commencement of
convalescence more strength may be given if ordered by the
doctor, by reducing the original quantity to one pint. This
broth is often administered by a spoonful only at a time.

56. Seasoned Mutton Broth. Put the same quantity of
mutton and water into your stewpan, add double the quantity
of salt, and a quarter ditto brown sugar, quarter of a middle-
sized onion, very little celery, and one ounce of turnip ; set it
2*

34 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

upon the fire, and when beginning to boil draw it to the side ;
let it simmer gently two hours ; skim off all the scum and fat,
and pass it through a sieve, and use it when required. When
finished, there ought to remain about a quart of broth ; but if
by neglect it has boiled too fast, add more water, and set to
boil for a quarter of an hour longer. If the patient is getting
better, his medical man will probably order him to eat a little
of the meat, or even turnips, in which case serve them on a
plate separately ; should the meat not be required by the patient,
it is very excellent for a healthy person, with a few spoonfuls of
onions or caper sauce, or even plain. If pearl-barley is required
to be taken with the broth, put a tablespoonful of it in with the
water when you first put it upon the fire, the whole will then
be done together ; if the barley is to be eaten by the patient,
take out the meat and vegetables, and skim off every spot of
grease ; but if the barley is not required, pass the broth, as be-
fore, through a sieve.

57. Mutton Broth (with variations). With Vermicelli.
Having made your broth, and passed it through a sieve, as be-
fore, put the meat and vegetables upon a plate, and the broth
back into the same stewpan ; when boiling, if about a quart,
add one or two tablespoonfuls of vermicelli, depending upon the
strength of the patient's stomach ; ten minutes' boiling will be
sufficient to cook vermicelli.

58. With Rice. One spoonful of best rice in the stewpan,
with mutton and water the same as the barley, as it is better
for the rice to be in pulp than underdone.

59. With Semoulina. Semoulina is very delicate and glu-
tinous, and I am quite confident that the faculty would approve
of it after a trial or two ; it is good in any kind of broth or milk
for invalids, of very easy digestion, and having also the advantage
of being tolerably cheap and quickly cooked ; proceed as directed
for vermicelli.

60. With Arrow-root. After having passed your broth,

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 35

place it again into the stewpan to boil ; when boiling, put two
teaspoonfuls of arrow-root into a cup, which mix smoothly with
a gill of cold broth, or half ditto of water ; then pour it into
your boiling broth, which keep stirring with a spoon ; let it
simmer ten minutes, and it is ready for use.

61. Veal Broth (French method}. The following is much
recommended by French physicians : Put one pound of veal
from knuckle, with but very little of the bone, into a stewpan with
three pints of water and a salt-spoonful of salt, place it over the
fire to boil ; when boiling, take off all the scum ; then add a
small cabbage-lettuce and a few sprigs of chervil, if handy ; let
simmer slowly for two hours, it will then be reduced to about
a quart ; pass it through a sieve, letting the meat drain, and it
is ready to serve.

62. Another way, more palatable. Take the same quantity
of veal as before, which cut into small dice (as you should cut
all meat if possible), put it into the stewpan, with a small pat
of butter, half an onion, about the same quantity of carrot and
turnip, a little celery, and a teaspoonful of salt ; set the stew-
pan upon the fire, keeping the contents stirred, for about ten
minutes, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a
whitish glaze, then add three pints of hot water ; let the whole
simmer one hour at the corner of the fire, skim well, pass it
through a sieve, and use when, required. This broth is most
palatable and very digestible, but of course only to be given to
the convalescent ; it may be served with vermicelli, rice, arrow-
root, and semoulina, as directed for mutton broth.

63. Another very Refreshing and Strengthening Veal
Broth. Put two pounds of knuckle of veal into a stewpan,
with a calf's foot split, and the bone taken out and chopped
up, add three quarts of water, a good-sized onion, one leek, a
piece of parsnip, and two salt-spoonfuls of salt (if allowed by
the doctor, if not, the salt must be omitted), set it upon the
fire, and when beginning to boil, skim, and let it simmer at the
corner of the fire four hours ; twenty minutes before passing,

36 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

again skim off all the fat, and add ten large leaves of sorrel, or
twenty small, one cabbage-lettuce, and a handful of chervil,
and when done pass it through a sieve, when it is ready for
use. This broth is very cooling and nutritious when taken
cold, as it is then quite a jelly ; vermicelli, rice, &c., may be
added when served hot, and the veal and calf's foot is very
excellent, eaten with parsley-and-butter or sharp sauce ; but
should the patient require any, it must be quite plain, with a
little of the broth and only the gelatinous part of the foot.

The above also makes an excellent dinner soup, and if put in
a cool place, would keep a week in winter and three days in
summer.

64. Soyer's new way of making Beef Tea. Cut a pound
of solid beef into very small dice, which put into a stewpan,
with a small pat of butter, a clove, two button onions, and a
salt-spoonful of salt, stir the meat round over the fire for a few
minutes, until it produces a thin gravy, then add a quart of
water, and let it simmer at the corner of the fire for half an hour,
skimming off every particle of fat, Avhen done pass through a
sieve. I have always had a great objection to passing broth
through a cloth, as it frequently quite spoils its flavor.

The same, if wanted plain, is done by merely omitting the
vegetables, salt, and clove ; the butter cannot be objectionable,
as it is taken out in skimming, pearl-barley, vermicelli, rice, &c.,
may be served in it if required.

65. Real Essence of Beef. Take one pound of solid beef
from the rump, a steak would be the best, cut it into thin slices,
which lay upon a thin trencher, and scrape quite fine with a
large and sharp knife (as quickly as possible, or the juice of the
meat would partially soak into the wood, your meat thus losing
much of its strengthening quality), when like sausage-meat put
it into a stewpan or saucepan, and stir over the fire five or ten
minutes, until thoroughly warmed through, then add a pint of
water, cover the stewpan as tightly as possible, and let it remain
close to the fire or in a warm oven for twenty minutes, then
pass it through a sieve, pressing the meat with a spoon to ex-
tract all the essence.

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 37

I beg to observe that here you have the real juice of the
meat ; but if wanted stronger, put only half instead of one pint
of water ; seasoning may be introduced, that is, a little salt,
sugar, and cloves, but no vegetables, as they would not have
time to cook, thus leaving a raw, bad flavor.

66. Pure Osmazome, or Essence of Meat. Take two pounds
of the flesh of any animal or bird (the older the better for ob-
taining the true flavor), as free from sinew as possible, and
mince it well ; place it in a Florence oil-flask, and cork it ; put
this in a saucepan filled with cold water, leaving the neck un-
covered ; place it on the side of the fire until the water arrives
at 160 Fahr., at which temperature it must remain for twenty
minutes ; then remove it, and strain the contents through a
tammie, pressing the meat gently with a spoon ; should it re-
quire to be kept for some time, put the liquor in a basin or cup,
which place in the saucepan ; subject it to a boiling heat until
it is reduced to a consistency like treacle, removing the scum ;
this, when cold, will become solid, and will keep for any num-
ber of years. Osmazome is known under various names in
different cookery books, as " fumet, essence," <fec., but which are
obtained in a different way, which causes the gelatine to be pro-
duced with the osmazome ; but, by the above plan, it is left in
the meat, and the osmazome, with a small quantity of the al-
bumen, is extracted, and the albumen is afterwards removed as
the scum.

67. Chicken Broth. Put half a raw chicken into a stewpan,
with a quart of water, a little leek and celery, with a salt-
spoonful of salt, and a few sprigs of parsley (if allowed), set
the stewpan upon the fire ; when boiling, skim well, and let
simmer upon the corner for one hour ; pass it through a sieve,
and it is ready for use.

The chicken would eat very nice with a little maltre d'h6tel
sauce, or any other from that series would do for the parlor,
that is, when the patient is not allowed to eat it.

For a change, chicken-broth in the following way is very nu-
tritious ; that is, after having passed the broth through a sieve,
pour it back again into the stewpan, which place over the fire ;
moisten a teaspoonful of flour in a cup with a little cold broth

38 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

or water, and when quite smooth pour it into the broth whilst
boiling, stirring quickly, let simmer a quarter of -an hour, and
it is ready. Mutton or veal-broth may also be varied the
same.

68. Eel Broth, very strengthening. Take a small eel, which
skin as described, and wash well, then cut into slices, which put
into a small saucepan, just covered with water, add a little salt,
a few sprigs of parsley, two button onions, and a clove ; let it
simmer very gently until the eels are tender, when skim off all
the fat, pass the broth through a very fine sieve into a cup : it
is then ready to serve when required, but a spoonful only should
be taken at a time.

A patient is sometimes allowed to take part of the fish,
which being so much boiled, constitutes a lighter food than eels
are in general ; a little melted butter and parsley might be
served with them.

69. Lait de Poule, French remedy for colds. May be made
from any of the foregoing broths, and for colds is excellent.
Break a fresh egg, separate the white from the yolk, put the
yolk in a basin, with a quarter of a gill of good cream or milk,
which mix well \vith a spoon, have half a pint of broth boiling,
which pour gradually over the egg and cream, mixing it (as
you pour the broth) with a wooden spoon ; it is then ready, and
ought to be taken when going to bed, if only for a cold.

70. Sweet Lait de Poule. This is also reckoned very good
for a cold. Put two yolks of eggs into a cup, with two tea-
spoonfuls of pounded sugar, a few drops of orange-flower water,
or the eighth part of the rind of a fresh lemon grated, beat them
well together for ten minutes, then pour boiling water gradually
over, keeping it stirred, until the cup is nearly full. Drink this
very hot when in bed ; I can strongly recommend it from ex-
perience.

71. Riz au Lait, or Rice Milk, is a very favorite food, or
soup ; in France many persons make their suppers from it, even
when in a state of perfect health. Proceed as follows : wash a

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 39

tablespoonful of good rice in water, which drain and put into a
stewpan, with a pint of milk, upon the fire, and when boiling,
place it at the corner to simmer, until the rice is quite tender,
but for invalids, must be in a pulp ; sweeten with a little sugar,
and it is quite ready.

72. Rice Milk seasoned. Proceed exactly as in the last, but
when the rice is quite tender add an ounce of butter, two tea-
spoonfuls of sugar, and a little salt, stir well together, and it is
then ready ; this must neither be too thick nor too thin, but
about the thickness of well-made gruel ; in France they always
add a few drops of orange-flower water, but that depends upon
taste. These two last are very nutritious, especially after a long
illness.

73. Vermicelli au Lait. Boil a pint of milk, and when boil-
ing add sufficient vermicelli to make it about the thickness of
the last article ; it may be served quite plain if required, or
seasoned as for the riz au lait, but omitting the orange-flower
water.

74. Semoulina au Lait. Boil a pint of milk, and when
boiling add a tablespoonful of semoulina, stirring it gently, to
prevent its becoming lumpy ; let it simmer twenty minutes, and
serve either plain or seasoned, as for the riz au lait.

75. Tapioca au Lait. Proceed exactly as in the last, but it
will require rather longer to simmer before the tapioca is tender ;
and, by way of change, add a little grated lemon-peel, or a glass
of white wine, if allowed by the doctor, or season as for the last.

76. Arrow-root. -Put two teaspoonfuls of arrow-root, which
mix gradually with enough water or milk, stirring it with a
spoon, let it boil a few minutes, and if made with milk, add
only a little butter, sugar, and salt, or serve plain ; but if made
with water, add the eighth part of the rind of a fresh lemon to
boil with it; when done add a glass of port or sherry, sugar, a
littlle sat, and a small piece of butter, unless prohibited.

40 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

77. Gruel. Put two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal or prepared
groats into a stewpan, and by degrees add a pint of water,
mixing smoothly with a wooden spoon, place it upon the fire,
keeping it well stirred, until it has boiled a couple of minutes,
when pour it into a basin, add half a salt-spoonful of salt, two
teaspoonfuls of brown sugar, and two ounces of butter, the latter
especially, if for a cold in the chest, even more than that quan-
tity, if the stomach is strong enough to bear it.

Gruel when properly made ought to adhere rather thickly to
the back of the spoon, but not to be pasty ; it ought, likewise,
to be eaten directly it is made, or it becomes thick and unpleas-
ant to eat ; if required plain, omit all the seasoning ; it might
also be made of milk.

78. Gruel from Scotch Groats. Proceed as above, but add-
ing rather more water, and boiling a few minutes longer ; many
people prefer eating it with the rough groats in it, but if objec-
tionable, place a small clean sieve over the basin you intend
serving it in, pass the gruel through, and season as in the last.
Some people add spirits or wine ; but that I should never re-
commend any one to do, unless by the doctors orders, and that
would be but very seldom, especially as regards spirits.

79. Sago Gruel. Put two tablespoonfuls of sago into a
small saucepan, which moisten gradually with a pint of cold
water, set it over a slow fire, keeping it stirred until becoming
rather thickish and clear, similar to a jelly, then add a little
grated nutmeg and sugar according to taste, and serve ; half a
pat of butter might also be added with the sugar, or it might
be made with new milk, and a little salt added, and a glass of
wine in either case makes it more palatable.

80. Arrow-root, Transparent Jelly. Put a good teaspoonful
of arrow-root into a basin, which mix smoothly with two spoon-
fuls of water, then add enough boiling water to make it about
the consistency of starch, stirring all the time, pour it into a
stewpan, and stir over the fire until it has boiled two minutes ;
add a little cream, a small glass of wine, and a little sugar, and
serve.

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 41

81. French Panada, for aged people, invalids, and children.
Break a stale penny roll into a saucepan, in which pour just
sufficient water to cover the bread, stir well over the fire, allow-
ing it to boil five minutes, then add half a teaspoonful of salt,
and two ounces of fresh butter, mix them, and take from the
fire ; have one yolk of egg well beaten, with two tablespoonfuls
of milk (if handy) or water, which pour into the panada, stirring
very quickly for half a minute, it is then ready to pour into a
basin and serve. Any common bread would do for panada,
but would not eat so light as when made from a roll.

I knew a very aged lady in France who accustomed herself
to eat a basin of panada every night, a few minutes previous to
going to bed, for a period of eighteen years, which will prove
that, although very substantial in appearance, it must be very
easily digested.

Panada ought to be rather thicker than gruel, and may like-
wise be made of milk, but water is preferable, especially when
for bilious people.

82. Barley Water. Put half a gallon of water into a very
clean saucepan, with two ounces of clean (but unwashed) pearl
barley, when boiling, carefully skim it with a tablespoon, and
add half the rind of a small lemon, let it boil until the barley
is quite tender ; sweeten with half an ounce of white sugar,
strain it through a fine hair sieve, and use when required. The
juice of half a lemon in some cases may also be introduced.

83. Rice Water. Put a quart of water to boil in a sauce-
pan, with a handful of clean rice (but not washed), place it upon
the fire, and let boil gently until the rice is quite in a pulp, then
pass it through a hair sieve into a jug, pressing as much of the
rice through as possible, and when getting cold, sweeten mod-
erately with honey, which will make it very palatable ; it
should be drunk lukewarm.

84. A New Drink. Put half a gallon of water upon the
fire, and when boiling, have ready four pippin apples (quite
ripe), cut each apple into eight slices, without peeling them,
throw them into the water, which keep boiling until the apples

42 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

are quite soft, pass the water through a sieve, pressing the
apples gently against the side of the sieve, but not rubbing
them through, add enough honey to make it a little sweetish,
and drink lukewarm.

Two apples thrown into the rice-water and boiled the same
would be a great improvement. People in good health would
much enjoy such drink, during the summer especially ; as also
would poor people in the countiy, where apples are plentiful.
Any kind of apples would suit, and brown sugar instead of
honey, or even no sugar at all.

85. Cooling Drink. Bake four or six apples, without peel-
ing them ; when done and quite hot, put them into, a jug, and
pour over three pints of boiling water ; cover the jug over with
paper, and when cold it is ready for use ; a spoonful of honey
or brown sugar added makes it very palatable.

86. Almond Water. Put five ounces of sweet and two of
bitter almonds into a saucepan, with a pint of hot water, set
them upon the fire, and, when boiling, strain them upon a
sieve, take off their skins, and set them in spring water to cool,
then dry them upon a cloth, pound them in a mortar until very
fine, adding a few drops of water occasionally, to prevent their
becoming oily, set a pint of syrup to boil, when throw in the
mashed almonds ; boil together a minute, then set it at the
corner to simmer for a quarter of an hour ; it is then ready to
pass through a fine sieve for use. When required, add any
quantity of cold water you please to make it palatable, accord-
ing to taste or direction.

87. Barley Lemonade. Put a quarter of a pound of sugar
into a small stewpan, with half a pint of water, which boil
about ten minutes, or until forming a thickish syrup ; then add
the rind of a fresh lemon and the pulp of two ; let it boil two
minutes longer, when add two quarts of barley-water, from
which you have omitted the sugar and lemon ; boil five min-
utes longer, pass it through a hair sieve into a jug, which cover
with paper, making a hole in the centre to let the heat through ;
when cold, it is ready for use ; if put cold into a bottle and well
corked down, it would keep good several days.

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 43

Barley Orangeade is made the same, substituting the rind
and juice of oranges ; the juice of a lemon, in addition, is an
improvement, when taken as a refreshing beverage.

88. A Refreshing Beverage. Slice two oranges and one
lemon, which put into a jug, with two ounces of sugarcandy,
over which pour one quart of boiling water ; stir it occasionally
until cold, when drink it a little at a time, as often as ordered
by the medical attendant. This drink is also very excellent for
persons in health, especially in warm weather.

89. Raspberry Vinegar Beverage. Put two tablespoonfuls
of raspberry vinegar into a cup, over which pour half a pint of
boiling water ; when cold, use it as you may be instructed or
when necessary ; any kind of fruit syrup would answer the
same purpose, and be equally as good, that is, currants, cher-
ries, strawberries, mulberries, <fcc.

90. A very Strengthening Drink. Put a teacupful of pearl-
barley into a saucepan, with three pints of cold water, the rind
of a lemon and a small piece of cinnamon ; boil the whole very
gently until the barley becomes tender, when strain it through
a fine sieve, and sweeten with a spoonful of treacle : if treacle
should be objectionable, honey or sugar will do.

91. fresh Fruit Water. Fresh fruits, when in season, are
very preferable to syrups, which are but seldom well made, ex-
cept at some of the first confectioners or Italian warehouses.

Pick a bottle of fresh raspberries or strawberries, whichever
you may require, rub them through a sieve into a basin, which
mix well with half a pint of syrup, the juice of a lemon, and a
quart of spring water ; pass it through a fine hair sieve, and
put it by in a jug for use ; both the syrup and water may
either be increased or diminished according to taste.

Red or white currant waters are made precisely the same,
only omitting the lemon, the currants themselves being suffi-
ciently sharp.

44 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

92. Cherry Draught. Choose a pound of good fleshy cher-
ries, from which take the stalk and stones, have a pint of syrup
boiling, into which throw them, to boil as fast as possible
for ten minutes, then take them from the fire, and add a good
wine-glassful of Madeira or sherry, and a quart of boiling water ;
put it into a jug, with a cup over ; when cold, pass it through
a sieve, and it is ready for use : the wine may be omitted if not
required. A drink of the same description may likewise be
made from mulberries, but then a little lemon-juice must be
added.

93. Arrow-root Water. Put half a gallon of water to boil
with two apples, the same as in No. 84, with the addition of a
stick of cinnamon ; let the whole boil half an hour, then mix
two large spoonfuls of arrow-root with half a pint of cold
water, very smoothly, and pour it into the boiling water : let
the whole boil ten minutes, and pass it through a sieve ; when
cold, it will drink light and thickish.

94. French Herb Broth. This is a very favorite beverage
in France, as well with people in a state of health as with in-
valids, especially in the spring, when the herbs are young and
green. Put a quart of water to boil, but have previously pre-
pared about forty leaves of sorrel, a cabbage-lettuce, and ten
sprigs of chervil, the whole well washed ; when the water is
boiling, throw in the above, with the addition of a teaspoonful
of salt and half an ounce of fresh butter ; cover your saucepan
close, and let them simmer a few minutes, then pass it through
a sieve or colander. This is to be drunk cold, especially in the
spring of the year, after the change from winter. I generally
drink about a quart per day for a week, at that time ; but if
for sick people, it must be made less strong of herbs, and taken
a little warm. To prove that it is wholesome, we have only to
refer to the instinct which teaches dogs to eat grass at that
season of the year. I do not pretend to say that it would suit
persons in every malady, because the doctors are to decide upon
the food and beverage of their patients, and study its changes
as well as change their medicines.

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 45

95. Dry Plum, Beverage. Put a quart of water in a sauce-
pan upon the fire, and, when boiling, throw in twelve fresh dry
French plums, and let them boil twenty minutes, then pour
them in a basin with the liquor to cool ; when cold, take out
the plums, which put into a basin ; add two tablespoonfuls of
brown sugar and a very small quantity of port wine. They
are excellent to eat, and the liquor to drink.

96. Figs and Apple Beverage. Have two quarts of water
boiling, into which throw six fresh dry figs, previously opened,
and two apples, previously cut into six or eight pieces each ;
let the whole boil together twenty minutes, then pour them
together into a basin to cool, then pass through a sieve ; dram
the figs, which will be also good to eat.

97. Stewed Plums. Put twelve French plums in a stew-
pan, with a spoonful of brown sugar, a gill of water, a little
cinnamon, and some thin rind of a lemon ; let them stew
twenty minutes, then pour them in a basin until cold, take
them from their syrup and eat them dry. They are some-
times stewed in wine and water, either port, sherry, or claret.

98. Baked Apples are very much used by invalids : have a
common yellow dish, such as you frequently see in farmhouses,
into which put about twelve apples (previously well wiped) and
about a gill of water, and put them in a hot oven for half an
hour, or rather more should the apples be large ; when well
done, take them out to get cold upon the dish, and eat them
cold, either with powdered lump or moist sugar.

99. Cooling Lemonade. Put a quart of water in a stew-
pan to boil, into which put two moist dried figs, each split in
two ; let it boil a quarter of an hour, then have ready the peel
of a lemon, taken off rather thickly, and the half of the lemon
cut in thin slices ; throw them into the stewpan and boil two
minutes longer ; then pour it into a jug, which cover closely
with paper until cold, then pass it through a sieve : add a tea-
spoonful of honey, and it is ready for use.

46 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

100. Imperial, a cooling Drink for the Spring. Two
ounces of cream of tartar, two lemons, juice and peel, four
ounces of sugar ; place in a stone jug, and pour about six
quarts of boiling water ; allow it to get cold, and bottle for use ;
or, instead of sugar, add three tablespoonfuls of raspberry vine-
gar, and six ounces of honey. This is excellent aerated-like
soda water. Essence of ratafia, or any other, may be added,
with about half a pint of pure spirit at proof, for those accus-
tomed to spirits.

101. Orangeade. Proceed as for lemonade, but using the
whole of the orange, a little of the peel included, sweetening
with sugar candy, and adding a teaspoonful of arrow-root
mixed with a little cold water, which pour into the boiling
liquid at the same time you put in the orange. The arrow-
root makes it very delicate.

102. Toast and Water. The ease and simplicity of making
this popular drink is probably the cause of its not being well
made one time in ten, that is, in private families ; the bread is
too much or too little done, or there is too much or not half
enough water, or more or less bread ; I venture to say that if
any person would take the trouble to go from house to house,
where there are patients, and taste toast and water at each,
they would not find two of the same flavor, and perhaps not
any of it properly made. To make it to perfection, proceed as
follows : cut a piece of crusty bread, about a quarter of a pound
in weight, place it upon a toasting-fork, and hold it about six
inches from the fire ; turn it often, and keep moving it gently
until of a light yellow color, then place it nearer the fire, and
when of a good brown chocolate color, put it into a jug, and
pour three pints of boiling water over ; cover the jug until cold,
then strain it into a clean jug, and it is ready for use : never
leave the toast in it, for in summer it would cause fermentation
in a short time. I would almost venture that such toast and
water as I have described would keep good a considerable time
in bottles.

The idea that bread must be burnt black to make toast and
water is quite a popular delusion, for nothing nourishing could

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 47

come from it : if your house was burnt to ashes, it would be
valueless ; and the same with burnt bread, which merely makes
the water black, but the nutriment of the bread, intended to
relieve the chest, has evaporated in smoke by being burnt.

PUDDINGS FOR INVALIDS.

103. Apple and Rice. Boil half an ounce of Carolina rice
in a gill of milk until very tender, then add a very small piece
of butter, sugar, a little cinnamon, and a grain of salt ; then
peel, core, and slice a middling-sized apple, which put into a
stewpan, with a small piece of butter, a little sugar, and a drop
of water, and stew it until tender ; when done, put the apple
in a small tart-dish, mix an egg with the rice, which pour over
the apple, and bake ten minutes in a moderate oven ; it may
also be made quite plain, if preferred.

104. Custard Pudding. Boil one pint of milk, with a small
piece of lemon-peel and half a bay -leaf, for three minutes ; then
pour these on to three eggs, mix it with one ounce of sugar
well together, and pour it into a buttered mould : steam it
twenty-five minutes in a stewpan with some water (see No. 112),
turn out on a plate and serve.

105. Rice Puddings. Wash well two ounces of rice in some
water, strain, then put it into a pint and a half of boiling milk,
with a small piece of lemon-peel, cinnamon, and half a bay-leaf,
tied together ; let it boil gently, stirring it occasionally, until
quite tender ; then put to it one ounce of butter, a little grated
nutmeg, a tablespoonful of sugar, and two eggs ; pour it into a
buttered tail-dish, and bake it half an hour.

106. Macaroni Pudding. Blanch two ounces of Naples
macaroni in some water for eight or ten minutes ; strain it,
add it to one pint of boiling milk, in which you have previously
boiled a piece of lemon-peel, cinnamon, and one ounce of but-
ter ; when the macaroni is quite tender, add two eggs and
sugar enough to sweeten it : steam it one hour in a stewpan, in
a buttered tart-dish.

48 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

10*7. Vermicelli Pudding. Boil one pint of milk, with a
piece of lemon-peel, half a bay-leaf, and a piece of cinnamon,
then add one ounce of vermicelli ; when reduced to half, add
two eggs, and a little sugar ; pour these in a buttered mould,
and steam it half an hour.

108. Tapioca Pudding. Boil one pint of milk, with a piece
of lemon-peel and a little cinnamon ; then add two ounces of
tapioca ; reduce to half ; add two eggs, and one ounce of but-
ter ; pour these in a buttered mould, and steam half an hour.

109. Bread Pudding. Boil one pint of milk, with a piece
of cinnamon and lemon-peel ; pour it on two ounces of bread-
crumbs ; then add two eggs, half an ounce of currants, and a
little sugar : steam it in a buttered mould for one hour.

110. Cabinet Pudding. Boil one pint of milk, with a piece
of lemon-peel, pour it on one ounce of sponge biscuit, let it
soak half an hour, then add three eggs, half an ounce of cur-
rants, and very little sugar : steam it in a buttered mould, lined
with raisins, one hour*

111. Bread and Butter Pudding. Butter a tart-dish well
and sprinkle some currants all round it, then lay in a few
slices of bread and butter ; boil one pint of milk, pour it on two
eggs well whipped, and then on the bread and butter ; bake it
in a hot oven for half an hour.

112. A Small Bread Pudding. Cut an ounce of the
crumb of bread into thin slices, with the least piece of butter
spread over each, which place in a small tart-dish ; then break
an egg into a cup with a teaspoonful of sugar and a little pow-
dered cinnamon, beat well ; then add about six tablespoonfuls
of boiled milk, mix well together, pour over the bread, and
bake in a slow oven, or steam it, if preferred, by standing the
dish in a stewpan containing about half a pint of water, that
is, the water should be about half way up to the rim of the

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 49

disli ; set the stewpan (covered close) upon the fire, and let it
slowly boil about ten minutes or longer, until the pudding is
properly set, then take the cover from the stewpan, which let
remain a few minutes longer upon the fire ; then take out the
pudding, wipe the dish, and serve.

Fish for Invalids. Slips, soles, flounders, whitings, and
smelts are the lightest of any fish, and upon that account more
to be recommended to invalids in a state of convalescence.

113. Whiting, plain lotted. Put two quarts of water into
a small fish kettle, with about an ounce of salt ; when boiling,
put in the whiting, draw the kettle to the corner of the fire to
keep it just simmering, and no more ; a whiting of the ordi-
nary size would take about ten minutes ; when done, which
you can tell by trying with the point of a knife whether it
leaves the bone easily, take it up carefully, and dish it upon a
clean napkin, with a few sprigs of parsley round ; although the
parsley is of course useless as far as the stomach is concerned,
nothing can be more pleasing to an invalid than to see his
meals carefully cooked and invitingly served.

At any time I prefer a whiting with the skin on, whether
boiled, grilled, or fried ; a little butter just melted, with a pinch
of salt, and the least drop of lemon-juice added, is very excel-
lent to eat as sauce with them. Should you purchase your fish
in the country, it will of course require cleaning, by opening
the belly and pulling out the gills and interior ; but never
wash these fish, merely wipe them with a cloth.

114. Broiled Whiting. Having cleaned your whiting, and
wiped it gently dry with a cloth, flour it all over lightly, rub
the gridiron over with a little oil, lay the whiting upon it, and
put it over a clear fire, but not too close, turn it carefully three
or four times, and when it feels firm to the touch of the finger,
it is done ; if a large one, it will take about twenty minutes ;
sprinkle a little salt over, if required, and serve with, plain
melted butter, with a few drops of essence of anchovies in it.
3

50 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

115. Sauted Whitings. Put some fat or butter in a frying-
pan, which place over a clear but moderate fire ; have your
whiting floured as in the last, and when the fat or butter is
melted, lay it in the pan ; let it saute slowly until it is done,
which try as in either of the last two ; when done, drain it
upon a cloth, sprinkle a little salt over, and serve.

If fried, enveloped in bread-crumbs, dip the fish lightly into
flour, then egg it all over with a paste-brush, and dip in some
very fine bread-crumbs, and fry it rather longer, but do not
let the fat get black, or it will give the fish a black, heavy ap-
pearance, and quite spoil the flavor. Fish fried in oil would
have a much better appearance than when fried in fat, but prob-
ably would be objectionable to a weak stomach. They ought
to be completely covered with the fat.

116. Smelts are very delicate fish, but ought never to be
plain boiled ; being confident of the good use they may be
turned to as a diet for the sick, I shall here give two receipts
for dressing them very plainly, yet still very palatable. Choose
them rather large, if so, two would be sufficient for a meal,
having previously drawn and cleansed them, put a gill of water
into a small stewpan, with a little salt, a saltspoonful of pow-
dered sugar, and four small sprigs of parsley ; when boiling
lay in your smelts, which let simmer five minutes, or more, if
larger than usual, keeping the stewpan well covered ; then take
them out carefully, lay them upon a dish, and pour the broth
over ; both fish and broth are excellent. They may be cooked
the same way in the oven.

Another way is to add a little arrow-root, mixed with a drop
of cold water, to the above, when half cooked ; it makes it
very soothing to the chest. Be extremely careful not to let the
fish or liquor burn at the bottom of the stewpan ; there should
be about three parts of the quantity of liquor when cooked as
you first put in water, allowing one quarter to evaporate whilst
boiling.

117. Broiled Smelts. When cleansed and wiped dry with
a cloth, dip them lightly into flour, and put them upon a grid-
iron over a slow fire, for five or six minutes, turning them care-
fully when half done ; serve plain, or with a little sauce, if al-

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 51

lowed, as many patients are forbidden moist food. I can highly
recommend any kind of white fish cooked in this manner ; and
it is well known that nothing in the way of food is more di-
gestible than fish.

Water souchet of flounders, soles, and slips may also be
served to invalids, by proceeding the same as above.

Meat, Game, and Poultry, of every kind, for invalids, ought
to be served as free from fat as possible.

118. A Mutton Chop. Choose one from a lean loin of mut-
ton, or if one in the house rather fat cut the greater part of it
off; your chop should be about six ounces in weight, and cut
off an equal thickness ; lay it upon a table, and beat it lightly
with the flat part of your chopper, then lay it upon a gridiron,
over a good clear fire ; season with a little salt, if allowed, and
turn it four or five times whilst broiling ; it will require about
eight minutes over a good fire, but of course longer over an
indifferent one ; if by pressing it with a knife it feels firm, it is
done ; serve upon a very hot plate, for if partly cold, the least
fat would immediately set, and be very unpleasant, especially to
a person unwell.

119. Plain Mutton Cutlet, from the Neck. An invalid will
frequently be tired of a mutton chop ; and for my own part I
must say a cutlet is far superior in flavor, and has a much
neater appearance ; cut off a rib from the neck, of the same
thickness as a mutton chop ; cut away the skin upon each side
of the bone, to the chine, which chop off; trim away the
greater part of the fat, cut a piece at the end of the bone,
which scrape off, leaving about half an inch of the bone bare ;
then beat it lightly with the flat of the chopper ; season ; broil
and serve very hot, as in the last.

120. Stewed Chop or Cutlet. Put it into a stewpan or
small saucepan, with a pint of water, and a little salt and
sugar ; let it stew as gently as possible from an hour and a
half to two hours, skim off all the scum and fat, and the patient

52 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

may partake of both chop and broth ; if seasoning is allowed,
put a teaspoonful of pearl-barley, with a little celery, leek, and
turnip, cut up very small, into the stewpan with the water,
when you first put the chop on, and proceed as before ; serve
the broth in a soup basin, with the chop in it ; should the meat
happen to be tough, let it stew rather longer ; the broth should
be reducedto about half a pint.

121. Beef, Rump Steak, The tenderest part of the rump
should be selected, about half a pound, not cut too thick, and
very even ; place it upon your gridiron over a moderate fire,
turning it frequently ; when done, sprinkle a little salt over ;
ten minutes would cook it thoroughly, but if wanted under-
done, as in many cases where the patient only sucks the gravy,
less time must be allowed.

122. Stewed Beef. Put the same quantity of beef as in the
last into a saucepan, with a quart of water, which place over
the fire, and when beginning to boil, well skim, then add a lit-
tle celery, turnip, and carrot, the whole weighing about an
ounce, and cut very small, let stew gently about three hours, by
which time the broth will be reduced to one quarter ; skim all
the fat off carefully; serve the meat upon a plate, and the
broth in a basin.

123. Lamb Chops or Cutlets. Proceed as just described
for mutton, but being more delicate, they will require but lit-
tle more than half the time to cook.

124. Lambs' Feet are very nutritious; purchase them ready
cleaned ; lay them ten minutes in boiling water, by doing which
you will be able to draw out the leg-bone with facility ; then
put them in a stewpan (two would be sufficient), and pour over
a pint of water with which you have mixed smoothly a table-
spoonful of flour, and half a teaspoonful of salt ; place them
upon the fire, stirring frequently until boiling, when add a
small onion, with a celery, parsley, and parsnip ; boil gently for
two hours, and when done, serve plain upon a plate, or with a

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 53

little melted butter and parsley poured over. By using a little
white broth from any meat instead of water, you make a deli-
cious soft soup, which may be partaken of freely.

Calves' feet are dressed in the same manner, but using a
double proportion of everything, and stewing them double the
time ; they are served precisely the same.

POULTRY FOR INVALIDS.

125. Roast Chicken. Procure a nice plump chicken, which
draw and truss, and cut the sinews ; pass the spit through un-
der the skewer as usual, and set it down before a clear fire ;
after being there five minutes, have ready a pat of butter, in
the bowl of a wooden spoon, with which rub the chicken all
over ; if the fire is too fierce, put it back a short distance, that
it may roast of a yellowish-brown color ; when a light smoke
arises from the chicken, which will be in about twenty minutes
from the time it was put down, it is done ; but to be quite sure
whether a bird is done, the better way is to press it lightly,
with your finger and thumb ; should it feel quite set, it is suffi-
ciently cooked.

126. Soiled Chicken. Put a quart of water to boil in a
saucepan, with a saltspoonful of salt, and two ounces of butter ;
when boiling, lay in the chicken, which keep gently simmering
for twenty minutes, when it will be done.

By adding a few vegetables of each description to the water,
and straining it when you take out the chicken, you have a very
excellent broth either for the sick or healthy, especially after
skimming off the fat you add a little vermicelli, which must be
boiled in it five minutes.

As it is very improbable that a sick person would eat the
whole of a chicken at once, I have annexed a few receipts, by
which a chicken would suffice for four meals.

First, put a tablespoonful of rice in a stewpan, with half a
pint of light broth ; let it boil gently until the rice is in pulp,
then put in the wing or leg of the previously-cooked chicken,
which let remain to warm about five minutes ; should the rice
be too dry, add a little more broth ; serve the fowl and rice

54 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

together upon a hot plate. Secondly, if wanted plain, set it in
a stewpan, with a few spoonfuls of stock, and let it warm
gently. Thirdly, it may be folded in a sheet of paper lightly
oiled, and warmed very gently upon a gridiron. Or fourthly,
plain broiled upon a gridiron, and served with a little light
gravy.

127. Partridge. Proceed in every manner to roast as just
directed for the chicken ; a young one would require about ten
minutes, or an old one fifteen, but then the breast only ought
to be eaten ; whatever remains may be served in either of the
ways directed for chickens.

128. Pigeons may be roasted the same as partridges, but
would not require so long. A pigeon may also be stewed as
follows : Put half a pint of mutton-broth into a stewpan, with
a pigeon trussed as for boiling, let it stew gently twenty min-
utes, if young ; both the pigeon and broth ought to be par-
taken of. Pigeons may also be broiled, by cutting them open
from the bottom of the breast to the joint of the wings, but
not separating them ; rub over with a little butter, broil twenty
minutes over a moderate fire, and serve with a little gravy.

129. Pulled Fowl. With the remainder of a roast or boiled
fowl or chicken you may make a very light dish, by pulling off
all the flesh with a fork, and putting it into a stewpan, then in
another stewpan place all the bones (previously broken small
with a chopper), with a little parsley, salt, sugar, and half a
pint of water ; let it boil gently until the water has reduced to
a gill, then strain it over the flesh of the chicken in the other
stewpan, which place over the fire until quite hot, and serve ;
should it be too thin, a small piece of butter and flour rubbed
together may be added, and boiled a minute. Old or young
fowls may be used, as it is not always convenient to get a young
fowl, especially in the country, where everything must be turned
to account and properly used : you would proceed with an old
fowl the same as for a chicken, but stewing it three times as
much, and adding more water in proportion ; it would be here
impossible to name the exact time required, as the fluctuation

CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE. 55

is so great, but by feeling the thigh of the fowl with the finder
and thumb, you may ascertain, for if done sufficiently it will
feel tender to the touch, and leave the bone with ease.

CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE.

LETTER No. VI.

DEAREST ELOISE, I here inclose you the last receipt which I intend
to give you for invalids. 'You will, no doubt, fancy that my diet is ex-
travagant ; but let me teach you that when you must pay the doctor's
bill, which I consider an extra and painful tax upon humanity, it is ours
and their duty to try to restore health as soon as possible, which my
receipts might, if well coupled with the science of a medical man, cause
a prompt restoration, and have the desired effect of increasing the
butcher's bill by diminishing that of the doctor. But I must also tell
you that I intend this part of our little work, if ever published, to be
useful to ah 1 classes of society, and that, among those receipts, the rich
as well as the humble, may partake and benefit by them in selecting
according to their means and their requirements. I am confident that
you will agree with me that even here I have closely studied the rules
of economy.

I shall therefore close the sick-room door to open the one of the parlor,
and to witness the merry faces of the million who have abandoned their
industrious occupations for the day, and partake, in the family circle,
their simple but substantial Sunday meal. I always used to say, when
in business, that he who works well deserves to live well, I do not mean
to say extravagantly, but that devoting one hour a day to their principal
meal ought to be classified as a matter of business in regard to economy.
We, therefore, must be very positive upon this important question, and
make them perceive that dining well once or twice a week is really un-
worthy of such a civilized and wealthy country as ours, where provi-
sions cannot be excelled by any other, both in regard to quantity and
quality. Yours, <fec. HOETENSE.

LETTER No. VII.

MY DEAR MRS. B. Your observation upon the way many people live
in this country is no doubt very correct, but do you not think that if you
were not quite so abrupt on the subject, we should probably be more
likely to succeed in bringing our friends round to your style of manage-
ment ; of which, for my part, I very much approve. But as it is a mat-
ter of importance, I should like you to describe in your next communi-
cation what are the principal and most useful joints in a family, and to
discourse on them, in pointing out the good wliich may be achieved, an J
the evils to be avoided. Ever yours, <fcc. ELOISE.

56 CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE.

LETTER No. VIII.

Many compliments to you, my dear Mrs. L.

At your request I here inclose the list you require, and which will
show you how circumscribed the middle classes are in respect to the va-
riation of their meals, in the way of meat and manner of cooking it. I
do not disapprove of your idea in wishing me here to give a series or list
of those provisions ; but, on the other hand, I must teU you frankly my
opinion, it being a subject which for some years I have made a study,
indeed quite a hobby. If I am wrong, let any one who knows better
correct me ; you will allow I am always open to conviction and improve-
ment, no matter how trifling, which often leads to an important one.

I shall therefore name all joints of meat which, though numerous,
offer but little variation when continually dressed the same way, and
observe that everybody has the bad habit of running only upon a few
which are considered the best. They are as follow :

Those in beef are the sirloin, ribs, round, silver-side, aitchbone.

In mutton leg, saddle, haunch, loin.

Lamb fore-quarter and leg.

Veal fillet, loin.

Pork leg, sparerib, loin.

Every one of these joints are of the most expensive parts, because
generally used, although many of the other parts are equally as good,
as I shall prove to you, in the receipts which I shall write for the din-
ner, what can be done in the way of made dishes out of those parts
which are rarely or never used in this country by the middle classes,
which will more clearly develope to you my ideas on the subject Be-
sides, there is this advantage, that if a small tradesman were to follow
these receipts, and buy every other time he goes to the butcher what he
now considers a second-class joint, he would not only be conferring a
public benefit, but also one on himself, and be the means of diminishing
the price of those now considered the first class, which at the present mo-
ment bear too liigh a price in proportion, but which his pride causes him
to purchase.

To prove to you that my argument is correct, look carefully over the
inclosed list, which contains all the joints that are cut from "beef, veal,
mutton, lamb, pork, and you will find that ten of the prime are in daily
use to one of the other, and principally for a want of the knowledge of
cookery ; leaving the science of cooking our food to a fierce or slow fire,
or plunging our expensive provisions into an ocean of boiling water,
which is thrown away, after having absorbed a great portion of the suc-
culence of the meat. Try the receipt for the Pot-au-feu ; taste the broth
and eat the meat, and tell me which plan you consider the best. Do
not think that I object to our plain joint, because, now and then, I am
rather partial to them ; but why not manage to make use of the broth,
by diminishing the quantity of water, and simmering them, instead of
galloping them at a special railway-train speed ? Were the middle
classes only but slightly acquainted with the domestic cookery of France,
they would certainly live better and less expensively than at present ,

CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE. 57

very often, four or five different little made dishes may be made from
the remains of a large Sunday's joint, instead of its appearing on the
table of a wealthy tradesman for several days cold, and often unsightly,
and backed by a bottle of variegated-colored pickles, made with pyro-
ligneous acid, which sets my teeth on edge merely in thinking of it, and
balanced by a steaming dish of potatoes, which, seen through the par-
lor window by the customers in the shop, would make them think there
was a grand gastronomic festivity taking place at Mr. A.'s or B.'s, the
butterman or greengrocer ; this may be excusable once or twice, on a
hot summer's day, with an inviting salad, seasoned with merely salt
pepper, oil, and vinegar, but the continual repetition of that way of liv-
ing in winter is, I consider, a domestic crime.

You will, perhaps, say that, in large firms, where forty or fifty, or
more young men dine every day, or even in public establishments still
more numerous, many professed cooks would be required to dress the
dinner, if my plan was adopted ; not at all, if the kitchen is properly
constructed : but in these establishments, joints, of necessity, must be
the principal viand, and there is very little left ; what there is, is con-
sumed cold for supper ; but even there an amelioration might take place,
although only a plain joint, either boiled or roasted, roasted or boiled,
which is generally the yearly bill of fare, and so simple, yet seldom well
done, and often badly, which, in a large establishment, must create great
waste, and make bad food out of good meat, and that for want of care
or a little more knowledge, which may appear to you but a trifling
matter, but not so to thousands of poor old people, with toothless gums
and fatigued stomachs, made comfortable within walls erected by the
good feelings of government, or by public charitv. I have often thought,
when visiting these establishments, that a professed cook ought to be
appointed, as well as a medical man, to visit all such in the metropolis,
not only to inspect the quality of the provisions, but superintend the
arrangements of the dietary table, and see that the viands are properly
cooked, and thus correct the lamentable ignorance which exists at the
present day ; I am confident that tons of meat are daily wasted in such
institutions throughout the country, which, if well employed, would feed
a great part of the starving poor of the United Kingdom. The same
system ought to be adopted in all the provincial towns ; and, if it was
in existence, we should not have to deplore such lamentable scenes
which we had latterly to witness at Tooting, where, no doubt, many
were to blame ; for, by the calculation I have made, the allowance,
though rather limited, was amply large enough to allow for good pro-
visions, and leave sufficient remuneration for any reasonable and not
covetous man. Why should not these poor children be watched over,
and made as comfortable in every respect as the wish of those who pay
to support them require ? besides, it has an effect upon after generations ;
for upon the food at the period of growth depends the nature of the
mind at a more advanced age, as well as the stature of the man. Do
we not evince our care to objects of the brute creation, and feed, with
the greatest attention, the race-horse ? compare him with others of his

rcies not so humanely treated, and note the difference : so it is with
human race ; and I might almost say the prosperity of a country
3*

58 CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE.

depends upon the food of its youth. You will perhaps think that I am
rather sharp in my remarks, and probably longer than is required, but
still it will be gratifying to both of us, should we find that these remarks
prove beneficial to such establishments as above mentioned ; and it is
only by giving notoriety to these important details, and being positive
in exposing the truth, that we can be believed and followed, and you
must not mind displeasing the few, if you are to be useful to the many.
Forever, <fcc. HORTENSE.

LETTER No. IX.

MY DEAR HORTENSE, After the receipt of your last observations,
which, on first seeing, I thought too long, but after having read them
over again, I am convinced that I shall not be able to shorten them ; at
all events, there is a great deal of truth in them, and, as you justly say,
they are the observations of a person who has constantly studied do-
mestic comfort and economy ; I shall therefore copy them in the journal
just as you send them to me. Truly yours,

ELOISE.

LETTER No. X.

MY DEAR ELOISE, I am glad to hear that you will not alter any of
my last copy sent, because I assure you I wrote with a full conviction
that I was right, and from facts which experience alone can engrave on
the memory ; but, however, we will now proceed : but I think it will be
necessary to alter our original intention, namely, in order to save any
confusion, to class all the receipts for the dinner together, and thus form
a large bill of fare, and follow, on a small plan, what M. Soyer, of the
Reform Club, has done on a large scale, in his ' Gastronomic Regene-
rator,' by which the most inexperienced hands may easily provide a
large or small dinner adapted for all classes, without committing a
blunder, and thus make a selection from soups, different dishes of fish,
and an innumerable number of removes ; entrees, roasts, savory dishes,
vegetables, sweets, dessert, <fcc., and having chosen one or two of each
series, and, on referring to the receipt, an idea of their cost, within a few
pence of the market-price, may be gained.

Let me know, dear, by return of post, if you approve of my new idea,
as it is rather deviating from our original one ; but observe, that having
so very distinctly given the Breakfast Receipts, and also for Invalids, it
will be more clearly understood than by repeating the same over and
over again, which would be unavoidable if following our first proposi-
tion. Yours truly, in haste,

HORTENSE.

LETTER No. XI.

MY DEAR HORTENSE, Never were you inspired by a better idea re-
specting your new plan ; it is so clearly explained, that I fancy our

ROASTING. 59

labor is over ; but I must tell you that, on the receipt of your last, I
wrote to M. Soyer, to inquire if he would object to our taking a few
hints from his " Kitchen at Home," wliich forms the last part of his
work. His answer was immediate, short, and as follows :

" DEAR MADAM, It would be entirely deviating from the preface of
my ' Gastronomic Regenerator' to refuse you anything in my power ;
and as your simple demand lies within that scope, you are quite welcome
to take a few hints, if you require them for your little work, from the
part entitled ' My Kitchen at Home.'

" Wishing your exertions may be well appreciated, I am, dear madam,
most sincerely, your humble and devoted,

" Reform Club. A. SOTEK."

As you have his book, you, no doubt, know to which part he alludes.
He says, in his preface, that he has made it a rule never to refuse ladies
anything in his power ; so far he has kept his word with us : so you may,
dearest, if you require, make use of his offer. I shall expect, by the
next post, the commencement of the Dinner Receipts, which I am con-
fident you will make as simple and as short as possible. With kindest
regards, yours,

ELOISE.

Roasting, Baking, Boiling, Stewing, Braising, Frying, Sauteing,
Broiling.

ROASTING being the most general in use, we will first describe it,
although not that which was first put in practice in cooking, it being
evidently an improvement on broiling : we can easily understand how,
in the early primitive times, man, finding that his food got covered
with the ashes with Which he cooked his meat, he would invent a species
of grate upon which he could raise the fire, and cook his meat before it :
this primitive mode of cooking has lasted, in many countries, up to the
present day, and even in London to within a few years ; for I remember
seeing, in the old Goldsmith's Hall, a fire-place, consisting of stages, on
which was laid the wood, and when the meat, <fcc., was spitted and ar-
ranged before it, the wood was lighted, and a man turned the spits. (It
was, no doubt, from arranging the wood thus in stages that the name
of range was derived.) In many noblemen's castles and ecclesiastical
establishments, dogs were kept to turn the spit, from whence we have
those of the name of turnspit ; whilst in others, where there happened
to be a person of a mechanical turn of mind, they applied a water-wheel
to the purpose, and the water from it formed a stream in the kitchen,
wliich served as a reservoir for live fish. Different opinions exist as to
the mode and time required for roasting, but this must all depend upon
the nature of the fire and the meat. In the Receipts will be found the
time which each requires. My plan is to make up as large a fire as the
nature of the grate will allow, because I can place my joint near or not,
as may be required, and thus obtain every degree of heat.

60 BAKING BOILING STEWING BRAISING.

BAKING is a branch of the art of cooking which, although one of the
oldest, is the least understood. (As I shall have to refer to this subject
again, I will give the reason why in a future letter.) It is performed
in various kinds of air-tight chambers, called ovens, the best of which
have the same form as in the tune of the Egyptians. Previous to the
art of baking being practised, boiled pulse and corn were the food of the
people ; even Rome contained no bakers until near six hundred years
after it was founded. Of late years, great improvements have been
made in the construction of ovens for baking of meat, called roasting
ovens, which cause great economy in the expenditure of fuel ; and, in
large public establishments, where a number of the same kind of joints
are required, it is the best plan of cooking. In the Receipts will be
found the time required by each for baking, but, in a general way, for
meat, hot ovens are the best ; for poultry, not so hot as meat ; and pastry,
according to its kind. In using dishes or utensils for the oven, they
ought, if of metal, to be of galvanized iron, and separate ones for meat
and fish.

BOILING is the next branch of the art which is of the most impor-
tance and appears the most simple, yet, at the same time, the most
difficult, and is a subject upon which, if I were to dilate, would occupy
a good quarto volume ; it is one of those easy things which it is sup-
posed everybody can do, and therefore no attention is paid to it, and it
is generally done badly. According to the way in which it is done,
meat may be rendered hard and tough or tender, lose or retain its
flavor or nourishment ; great difference of opinion exists amongst med-
ical men which are the easiest of digestion roasted or boiled meats.
I say it is a subject quite impossible to decide, as it must depend upon
the different constitutions and climate ; for we might as well say that
the food of the Esquimaux is adapted for the native of Italy.

STEWING ought to be the best understood, on account of its econ-
omy ; pieces of coarse meat, subjected to stewing, if properly done,
become tender, as the gelatinous parts become partly dissolved; it
should be done slowly, the pan partly uncovered, and frequently skim-
med. Great cleanliness should be observed in all the vessels used for
stewing.

BRAISING is the next and most important part of the art of cook-
ing, and, like the saute, belongs entirely to the French school, from
whom it takes its name, braise being the remains of wood burnt in the
oven, or live charcoal : and as this plan of cookery requires the action
of the fire under and over the braising-pan, which is air-tight, in order
that the aromatic flavor arising from its contents may be imbibed by
the meat or poultry, and give it that succulence so much esteemed by
epicures. The braise is put on the cover, which, in some cases, is made
deep on purpose to hold it. Its origin is stated to be owing to a gas-
tronomic society which was formerly in existence in Paris, whose object
was to benefit and improve the art of cookery, and who offered a re-
ward of a silver gridiron to any culinary artist who would discover a

FRYING. 61

new mode of dressing a turkey. Although a gridiron was, no doubt,
intended to be used, yet a young artist named La Gacque, warmed by
the offer, directed his imagination to quite a different mode, and used
the pan instead of the gridiron, and thus composed the braise, which
was unanimously approved of by that scientific, gastronomic, and epicu-
rean body, who awarded him the prize. The chief art in braising is to
do it slowly, taking care that the ingredients are well-proportioned,
receipts for which will be found in their proper place.

FRYING. Of all the apparently simple modes of cookery there is
none more so than that of frying, but yet how rare to meet with it
done properly. I believe it is to be attributed, in a great measure, to
the idea that, to do it well is expensive. I have therefore made a
series of experiments upon a plan such as should be followed in every
private house, and I am convinced that to do it well is cheaper than
doing it badly ; but, in the first place, we ought to consider, What is
frying ? It is the insertion of any substance into boiling oil, or grease,
by which the surface of that substance becomes carbonized, and the
heat which effects this object is sufficient to solidify the albumen and
gelatine, or, more commonly speaking, cooked ; to do this properly, the
substance ought to be covered by the liquid, so that the heat acts all
over it at the same time, or otherwise the osmazome, or gravy, will be
dried out of that part which is not covered, and the succulence and fla-
vor of the viand lost ; or, should the liquid not be of that degree of
heat which would carbonize the surface on the moment of its immer-
sion, it would then enter into the substance, render it greasy, and de-
stroy its flavor, which no degree of heat afterwards could remedy.
Those articles which are fried are generally those which have a coating
of materials (such as bread-crumbs and batter) which are quickly car-
bonized, and thus form a crust which prevents the grease penetrating,
concentrates the liquids, and preserves the flavor of the article ; the
carbonization once effected, the fire should be immediately moderated,
particularly if the article is large, in order that the interior may be-
come properly solidified. All articles properly fried are generally
much liked, as they are agreeable to the eye, and afford a pleasing
variety.

The plan that I recommend you to adopt is, to obtain an iron or cop-
per pan long enough for a good-sized sole, and 6 to 8 inches deep, and
fill three to four inches of it with fat the skimmings of the stock-pot,
or, if that should not be sufficient, the kidney-fat of beef, cut up, melted,
and strained. In wealthy establishments, lard, and, in some, bacon-fat
melted is used, and, for some articles, olive oil, wliich can only be used
once ; but in our less luxurious homes I think the above is sufficient,
besides, it has the advantage of not requiring that great attention which
the other does. When you have the fat on, before immersing the sub-
stance you intend to fry, see that it is sufficiently hot by dipping your
finger (not in the fat), but in a little water, and then hold it over the
fat, so that a few drops go into it ; if it spits and throws back the water,
it is sufficiently hot : or, throw in a small dice of bread and take it out
immediately ; if it is firm or colored, it is hot enough : or, in frying of

62 SAUTEING.

fish, before putting it in, lay hold of the head and dip the end of the
tail, and, if it crisps it, then let the remainder go in. I have found, if
due attention is paid to the pan to prevent it from burning, forty arti-
cles may be fried in it before it wants renewing ; and I am certain it
will be found cheaper than the common way of putting a little fat into
the frying-pan and turning the sole over and over, for you are then
almost certain of sending the grease up to the table, where it is not
wanted. When the fat is not used, it should be emptied, whilst hot,
through a sieve, into an earthen pipkin, and covered with paper to pre-
vent the dust going in it. For the purpose of frying, an iron wire-bas-
ket, with a handle, is used, in which the object to be cooked is placed,
and thus inserted in the liquid. The cost of this instrument is trifling.

SAUTEING. You will perceive, dearest, by the following, that
the word fried is often wrongly used in cookery instead of the word
saute, which process is totally different, and produces quite another
effect on food. Saute means anything cooked in a very small quantity
of butter, oil, lard, or fat, one side of the article at a time, whilst the
other requires about 100 times more of the above-named materials to
cook properly. You will see, in these remarks, that it is not frying a
pancake, omelette, or still less a chop, steak, or cutlet, but that they are
sauted ; and how to explain that word, to use it instead of the misap-
plied word fry, puzzles me considerably,. as I am quite ignorant of its
origin as regards its application to cookery. All the researches I have
made in English and French Dictionaries and Encyclopaedias, have not
enlightened me in the least on the subject. In French, it means to
jump, hop, skip, understood by our boys at school, as well as by the
grasshopper tribe, called in French sauterelles, from the word sauter,
to jump. I well remember at school we had a French emigre for a
dancing-master, who used to get into a passion when we did not dance
to his professional taste ; and used to say, in shaking his powdered wig,
as holding his fiddle in one hand and his bow in the other, making all
kinds of grimaces and contortions, which used to remind me of the prin-
cipal figure in the group of the Laocoon, " Mon dieu, mon dieu, young
miss, vous sautez tres bien, mais vous dansez fort mal ;" which means,
" You jump very well, but you dance very badly." It also reminds me
of an expression made by a friend of ours from Havre, who was on a
visit to us last November. Seeing some Guy Fawkes carried about the
street, he asked me what it meant ; when I told him, that in the year
1605, an attempt was made to destroy by gunpowder the King and
Parliament in the House of Lords, as well as . " Oui, oui, ma-
dame, I know, I remember reading of it in English history ; it was that
little brute qui a voulut faire sauter le Parlement," replied he very
quickly. " Sauter, sauter" I said ; " no, sir, not saute blow up."
"Oui, oui, madame, I know, it is the same thing." "Same thing,"
replied I. This of course puzzled my culinary imagination still more ;
and I perceived, that if the word was translated' to his meaning, it
would sound most absurd and ridiculous ; as, for example, on being at
a festive board, and a polite young gentleman, or even' your own hus-
band, might gallantly offer to give you a blow-up cutlet, instead of a

BROILOG. 63

cotelette saute, as they say in fashionable circles. I can easily conceive,
that if the cotelette was blown up, it would stand a chance of coming
down on the other side, thus saving the cook the trouble ; but if Guy
Fawkes had unfortunately succeeded, it would have produced quite
another effect. Having failed in my literary researches, I tried to find
it in practice. I therefore went to my kitchen, and put two spoonfuls
of oil in a sautepan ; I took a nice spring chicken prepared for broiling,
put on the fire ; and, as it began to act upon it, the oil began to jump,
and also slightly the chicken. I then perceived that the way my
French friend used the word was right ; and that, after all, there was
not such a great difference in Guy Fawkes's plan of cooking the Parlia-
ment and that of a cutlet or chicken, for both were doomed to destruc-
tion, the one by falling in awful ruins on the fire, and the other devoured
by a ravenous stomach on the dinner -table. Now, dearest, having
found no means of translating it to my satisfaction, I see no other plan
but to adopt it amongst us, and give it letters of naturalization, not for
the beauty of the word, but for its utility. The process of sauteing is
at once quick, simple, and economical, and to be well done furnishes a
pleasing article of food. The art of doing it well consists in doing it
quickly, to keep the gravy and succulence in the meat, which a slow
process would nullify, and is of course confined to small articles of every
kind of food.

BROILING is, without doubt, the earliest and most primitive mode
of cookery, it being that which would present itself to man in a state
of nature. It is one of the easiest parts of cookery, and therefore
should be done well ; it entirely depends upon the fire, which must be
exceedingly clear, and the best gridiron is that having round bars, which
should be placed slanting over the fire, to prevent the fat going into it ;
the bars should be greased, and the gridiron should be placed on the
fire to get hot before the object to be cooked is placed on it. I have
heard that great difference of opinion exists in cookery books upon the
proper broiling of a steak, if it should be turned only once or often.
My plan is to turn it often, and my reason is, that, if turned but once,
the albumen and the fibrine of the meat get charred, and the heat
throws out the osmazome or gravy on the upper side, which, when
turned over, goes into the fire ; by turning it often, so as at first only
to set the outside, the gravy goes into the centre, and it becomes evenly
done throughout. (See "Soyer's Mutton Chop.") As regards the
thickness of the meat to be broiled, that depends in a great measure on
the intensity of the fire, but the quicker the better, and also the sooner
it is eaten after taken from the fire the better. I have latterly, in
broiling rump-steaks, added that which, by a great many, is considered
an improvement ; it is, on turning them the last time, to dredge them
out of a dredger with fine holes, in which has been placed four table-
spoonfuls of fine biscuit or rusk-powder, one tablespoonful of salt, one
teaspoonful of pepper, a saltspoonful of either eschalot-powder or
mushroom-powder, or finely -pulverized salts of celery, well mixed to-
gether, and the steak to be placed in a very hot dish, with a little mush-
room-ketchup and a small piece of butter," and served immediately.

64 SAUCES.

SAUCES.

SAUCES in cookery are like the first rudiments of grammar, which
consists of certain rules called Syntax, which is the foundation of all
languages : these fundamental rules are nine, so has cookery the same
number of sauces, which are the foundation of all others ; but these,
like its prototype the grammar, have two brown and white, which
bear a resemblance to the noun and verb, as they are the first and
most easily learnt, and most constantly in use ; the others are the ad-
juncts, pronouns, adverbs, and interjections; upon 'the proper use of
the two principal ones depends the quality of all others, and the
proper making of which tends to the enjoyment of the dinner ; for to
my fancy they are to cookery what the gamut is in the composition of
music, as it is by the arrangement of the notes that harmony is pro-
duced, so should the ingredients in the sauce be so nicely blended, and
that delightful concord should exist, which would equally delight the
palate, as a masterpiece of a Mozart or a Rossini should delight the ear ;
but which, if badly executed, tantalize those nervous organs, affect the
whole system, and prove a nuisance instead of a pleasure. I will
therefore be very precise in describing the two, in order that when you
make them, you will not cause your guests to make grimaces at each
other, when partaking of them at your festive board, for the present
age is a little more refined than at the time of Dr. Johnson, and we are
often obliged to swallow what we do not like ; for it is reported of him,
that being at a ceremonious dinner-party, and indulging in his usual
flow of wit, he unconsciously partook of a spoonful of very hot soup,
which he immediately returned to the plate he had taken it from ; and
observing the astonishment of some of his neighbors, he very coolly
remarked, " A fool would have burnt his mouth."

When we are at home alone, I very seldom trouble myself by making
white or brown sauce, which I can avoid by selecting simplified dishes,
which easily produce their own sauce whilst cooking them. But when
I expect a little company, the first I order of my cook is to make me
half of the quantity of the following receipts for white and brown

130. White Sauce. Cut and chop a knuckle of veal, weigh-
ing about four pounds, into large dice ; also half a pound of
lean bacon ; butter the bottom of a large stewpan with a quar-
ter of a pound of butter, add two onions, a small carrot, a tur-
nip, three cloves, half a blade of mace, a bouquet of a bay-leaf,
a sprig of thyme, and six of parsley, add a gill of water, place
over a sharp fire, stirring round occasionally, until the bottom
of the stewpan is covered with whitish glaze, when fill up with
three quarts of water, add a good teaspoonful of salt, and let

SAUCES. 65

simmer at the corner of the fire an hour and a half, keeping
well skimmed, when pass it through a hair sieve into a basin ;
in another stewpan put a quarter of a pound of butter, with
which mix six ounces of flour, stirring over the fire about three
minutes, take off, keep stirring until partly cold, when add the
stock all at once, continually stirring and boiling for a quarter
of an hour ; add half a pint of boiling milk, stir a few minutes
longer, add a little chopped mushrooms if handy, pass through
a hair sieve into a basin, until required for use, stirring it round
occasionally until cold; the above being a simplified white
sauce, will be referred to very often in the receipts.

131. Brown Sauce. Put two ounces of butter into a stew-
pan, rub it over the bottom, peel two or three large onions, cut
them in thick slices, lay them on the bottom, cut into small
pieces about two pounds of knuckle of veal,* all meat, or three
pounds if with bone, a quarter of a pound of lean bacon cut
small, two cloves, a few peppercorns, a tablespoonful of salt,
two bay-leaves, a gill of water ; set it on a brisk fire, let it re-
main ten minutes, when stir it well round, subdue the fire, let
it remain a few minutes longer, and stir now and then until it
has a nice brown color ; fill your pan with three quarts of
water ; when boiling, set it on the corner of the stove, with the
lid three parts on the saucepan ; when boiling, skim fat and
all ; after one hour, or one hour and a half simmering, pass it
through a sieve into a basin. To make the thickening or
roux for it, proceed as follows : Put two ounces of butter into
a pan, which melt on a slow fire, then add three ounces of flour,
stir it until getting a thin deep yellow color ; this in France is
called roux, being very useful in cookery, and will be often re-
ferred to in these receipts. This process will take five minutes,
when remove from the fire for two minutes to cool, then add at
once three and a quarter pints of the above stock, very quickly
set it on the fire to boil, remove to corner to simmer, and skim ;
it ought to be entirely free from grease, and of a light chestnut
color.

132. Demi- Glaze Thin Brown Sauce for Made Dishes,
When I have a small dinner-party, I always, as I told you be-

* Half veal and beef can be used ; or if no vual, all beef.

66 SAUCES.

fore, make small quantities of white and brown sauce as above,
but this is a nice way of clarifying a brown sauce without much
trouble, and makes it a beautiful transparent brown color : but
although I have made it quite a study, that each entrte, or
made dish for daily use, should make its own sauce, yet I must
impress upon you that this sauce is the real key to cooking a
good and ceremonious dinner. Put a pint of brown sauce in a
middle-sized stewpan, add to it half a pint of broth or con-
somme, put it on the stove, stir with wooden spoon, let it boil
as fast as possible, take the scum off which will rise to the sur-
face, reduce it until it adheres lightly to the spoon, pass it
through a sieve or tammy into a basin, stir now and then until
cold, to prevent a skin forming on the top, put it by until
w r anted for use. It will keep for a week in winter, by adding
half a gill of white broth every other day, and giving it a boil ;
the addition of a tablespoonful of tomatos, gives it a beautiful
color ; use where indicated.

133. Thin Brown Sauce of Mushrooms. Put twelve table-
spoonfuls of thin brown sauce in a small stewpan to boil, then
have six or eight small mushrooms well cleaned and washed,
chop them fine, and place in sauce, and boil for five minutes ;
taste if it is to your liking ; the addition of a little sugar is an
improvement: a little cayenne, if liked, may be introduced.
This sauce is good for cutlets, broiled fowl and game, &c.

134. Eschalot Sauce. Chop fine about a good tablespoonful
of eschalot, wash them by placing them in the corner of a nap-
kin, and pouring water over them ; press them until dry, put
them in a small stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar,
one clove, a little mace ; boil two minutes, add ten tablespoon-
fuls of demi-glaze, boil a little longer, add a little sugar, and
serve.

135. Piquant Sauce. Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped
onions, or eschalots, cleaned as above, into a stewpan ; put also
four tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a bay-leaf, and boil ; then
add ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, half a one of chopped
parsley, ditto of green gherkins ; boil five minutes, skim, add a
Httle sugar, taste if well seasoned, take out bay-leaf and serve.

SAUCES. 67

136. Tarragon Sauce. Put eight tablespoonfuls of demi-
glaze, and four of broth, into a stewpan ; boil for a few min-
utes, add a tablespoonful of vinegar, have ready picked twenty
leaves of fresh tarragon, put in to simmer two minutes, and
serve with any kind of poultry, but especially spring chickens.

13V. Brown Cucumber Sauce. Peel a small fresh cucum-
ber, cut it in neat pieces, put in a stewpan with a little sugar,
add half an ounce of butter, set it on a slow fire, stir it now and
then, add twelve tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, and four of broth ;
let it simmer till tender, skim the butter off, remove the cucum-
bers into another stewpan, reduce the sauce a little, taste it and
serve.

138. Mince Herb Sauce. Put two tablespoonfuls of finely
chopped onions in a stewpan, add a tablespoonful of oil, place
it on the fire, stir a few minutes, add ten tablespoonfuls of demi-
glaze and four of broth or water ; boil, skim ; if too thick, and
the scum should not rise, add half a gill of broth or water ;
boil, and reduce to a proper thickness, and add a tablespoonful
of chopped parsley if handy, one of mushrooms, and season
with a little cayenne, the juice of a quarter of a lemon ; serve.
I often introduce a little garlic in this.

139. Italian Herb Sauce. Proceed in the same way as the
above, only add a little chopped thyme and a small glass of
sherry.

140. Robert Sauce. Peel and cut up two good-sized onions,
put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter till they are a
nice yellow color, then add eight tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze,
and two of water or broth ; skim, boil quick ; when a proper
thickness, add a good tablespoonful of French mustard ; season
it rather high ; if no French mustard, use English, but it com-
pletely changes the flavor, though still very palatable.

141. Ravigote Sauce. Put in a stewpan one middle-sized
onion sliced, with a little carrot, a little thyme, bay-leaf, one

68 SAUCES.

clove, a little mace, a little scraped horseradish, a little butter,
fry a few minutes, then add three teaspoonfuls of vinegar, ten
tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, four of broth ; when boiling,
skim, add a tablespoonful of currant jelly ; when melted, pass
all through a tammy, and serve with any kind of meat or poul-
try ; with hare or venison it is excellent.

142. Brown Mushroom Sauce. Clean and cut twelve small
mushrooms in slices, place them in a stewpan with a little but-
ter, salt, pepper, the juice of a quarter of a lemon, set it on a
slow fire for a few minutes, then add ten spoonfuls of demi-
glaze ; boil till they are tender, and serve. A little mushroom
catsup may be introduced.

143. Orange Sauce for Game. Peel half an orange, re-
moving all the pith ; cut it into slices, and then in fillets ; put
them in a gill of water to boil for two minutes ; drain them on
a sieve, throwing the water away ; place in the stewpan ten
spoonfuls of dem-iglaze, or two of broth ; and, when boiling,
add the orange, a little sugar, simmer ten minutes, skim, and
serve. The juice of half an orange is an improvement. This
is served with ducklings and waterfowl : those that like may
add cayenne and mustard.

144. Garlic Sauce. Though many dislike the flavor of this
root, yet those that like it ought not to be deprived of it. Put
in a stewpan ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, a little tomatos
if handy ; boil it a few minutes, scrape half a clove of garlic,
put it in with a little sugar, and serve.

145. Mint Sauce for Lamb. Take three tablespoonfuls of
chopped leaves of green mint, three tablespoonfuls of brown
sugar, and put into a basin with half a pint of brown vinegar ;
stir it well up, add one saltspoonful of salt, and serve.

146. Liaison of Eggs. Break the yolks of three eggs in a
basin, with which mix six spoonfuls of milk, or eight of cream ;
pass it through a fine sieve, and use when directed.

SAUCES. 69

147. Anchovy Butter Sauce. Put into a stewpan eight
spoonfuls of demi-glaze, or three of broth ; when boiling, add
one ounce of anchovy butter ; stir continually till melted :
serve where directed.

148. Soyer's Sauce. Put six spoonfuls of demi-glaze into a
stewpan ; when hot, add four spoonfuls of Soyer's Gentleman's
Sauce ; let boil, and serve with either chop, steak, cotelettes,
poultry, or game.

149. Papillotte Sauce. Scrape half an ounce of fat bacon,
put it in a pan with four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, stir
over the fire for a few minutes, then add ten tablespoonfuls of
brown sauce, and boil ; then add a tablespoonful of mush-
rooms chopped, one ditto of parsley, a little nutmeg, a little
pepper and sugar, a little scraped garlic ; reduce till rather
thickish ; put on dish till cold, and use it for anything you
may put up " en papillotte"

150. Tomato Sauce. If fresh, put six in a stewpan ; hav-
ing removed the stalk, and squeezed them in the hand to re-
move pips, &c., add half an onion, sliced, a little thyme, bay-
leaf, half an ounce of celery, one ounce of ham, same of butter,
teaspoonful of sugar, same of salt, a quarter one of pepper ;
set on fire to stew gently ; when all tender, add a tablespoonful
of flour, moisten with half a pint of broth, boil five minutes,
add a little cayenne, taste if highly seasoned, pass it through
sieve or tammy, put it back in stewpan, until it adheres rather
thick to the back of the spoon, and use it for any kind of meat
or poultry. If preserved tomato, proceed as for poivrade sauce
respecting the vegetables, omitting the vinegar, add the tomato,
instead of brown sauce, add a tablespoonful of flour and broth
to bring it to a proper thickness, and pass it through a sieve,
and serve as above.

151. Curry Sauce. This I generally keep ready-made in the
larder, being very fond of what I consider such wholesome food as
curry ; but not liking to be troubled with making it often, I cause mv
cook to prepare a certain quantity at a time. Mr. B. is very partial to
curry, but he likes it in winter ; for my part, I prefer it in summer. After

70 SAUCES.

having partaken of some one very hot summer's day, I felt quite cooL
Capt. White, who has been nearly twenty years in the East Indies, tells
me that it will produce that refreshing effect ; but I can enjoy it in any

Put into a pan four good-sized onions, sliced, and two of
peeled apples, with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of
lean ham, a blade of mace, four peppercorns, two bay-leaves,
two sprigs of thyme ; stir them over a moderate fire until the
onions become brown and tender, then add two tablespoonfuls
of the best curry powder, one of vinegar, two of flour, a tea-
spoonful of salt, one of sugar ; moisten it with a quart of broth
or milk, or even water, with the addition of a little glaze ; boil
till in a pulp, and adhering rather thickly to the back of the
spoon ; pass all through a fine sieve or tammy, give it another
boil for a few minutes, put it in a basin, and use when required.
Any kind of meat, poultry, and fish, or parts of game, is excel-
lent warmed in this sauce, and served with well-boiled and dry
rice. I have kept this sauce in a cool place in the winter for a
month, boiling it now and then. The quantity of powder may
be omitted, and a spoonful of curry paste used, or some man-
goes. (See Curries.)

152. A very good and useful White Sauce (quite new).
Put a quart of white sauce in a stewpan of a proper size on a
fire ; stir continually until reduced to one third ; put two yolks
of eggs in a basin, stir them well up, add your sauce gradually,
keep stirring, put back in stewpan, set it to boil for a few min-
utes longer, then add one pint of boiling milk, which will bring
it to its proper thickness ; that is, when it adheres transparently
to the back of a spoon ; pass through a tammy into a basin,
stir now and then till cold ; if not immediately required, and I
have any stock left, I use half of it with half of milk. I also
try this way, which is very convenient : when the yolks are in,
and well boiled, I put it in a large gallipot, and when cold,
cover with pieces of paper, and it will keep good in winter for
two or three weeks, and above a week in summer ; and when I
want to use a little of it, I only take a spoonful or two and
warm it on the fire, and add enough milk or white broth to
bring it to a proper thickness, and use where required. This
sauce is very smooth, and never, turns greasy ; it lies beauti-

SAUCES.

fully on fowl, or any white made dish ; the addition of a drop
of cream gives it a very fine white appearance.

153. Onion Puree Sauce. Peel and cut six onions in slices ;
put in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, a tea-
spoonful of salt, one of sugar, a half one of pepper ; place on a
slow fire to simmer till in a pulp, stirring them now and then
to prevent them getting brown, then add one tablespoonful of
flour, a pint of milk, and boil till a proper thickness, which
should be a little thicker than melted butter ; pass through a
tammy, warm again, and serve with mutton cutlets, chops, rab-
bits, or fowl ; by not passing it, it will do for roast mutton and
boiled rabbit as onion sauce.

154. Puree of Cauliflower Sauce. Boil a cauliflower well in
three pints of water, in which you have previously put one
ounce of butter, two tablespoonfuls of salt ; when done, chop it
up, having prepared and slowly cooked in a stewpan an onion
sliced, a little celery, half a turnip, one ounce of ham, two of
butter, a little bay-leaf, mace, add then the cauliflower, stir
round, add a tablespoonful of flour, moisten as above for onions,
pass and finish the same way.

155. Jerusalem Artichoke Sauce. Peel twelve, and well
wash, boil till tender, and proceed as above.

156. Turnip Sauce Puree. Boil six middle-sized ones,
press all the water you can out of them, and proceed as the
above.

15*7. White Cucumber Puree. Peel two, or one large one,
cut in slices, put in the stewpan with the same vegetables, <fec.,
as for the cauliflower; when tender, add a tablespoonful of
flour, three gills of milk or broth, boil, and finishing as the
cauliflower.

158. Sorrel Sauce, or Puree. Wash well four handfuls of

72 SAUCES.

sorrel, put it nearly dry into a middle-sized stewpan, with a
little butter ; let it melt, add a tablespoonful of flour, a tea-
spoonful of salt, half one of pepper, moisten to a thick puree,
with milk, or broth, or cream ; pass it through a sieve, put it
back in a stewpan, warm again, add two whole eggs, two
ounces of butter, and stir well, and serve where directed.

159. Spinach Puree (see Vegetables, 2d Course). Endive
is often used in France, and called chicoree. This puree may
be made like the cauliflower, or only plainly chopped, put into
a pan with two ounces of butter, a gill of white sauce, a little
grated nutmeg, and a little salt, pepper and sugar.

160. Stewed Peas and Sprew Grass. For cutlets, sweet-
breads, fowls, or any dishes, they are applicable (see Vegeta-
bles, second course), also French beans, only using one third of
the quantity that you would for a made dish for an entremet.

161. Scooped Jerusalem Artichokes. Scoop with a round
cutter twenty-four pieces of artichoke, of the size of half an inch
in diameter, wash them, put them in a small stewpan with half
an ounce of butter and a quarter of an ounce of sugar ; put it
on a slow fire for a few minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of
white sauce, six of white broth or milk, let them simmer till
tender, skim, mix a yolk of an egg with two tablespoonfuls of
milk, pour in stewpan, and move it round very quick, and
serve ; it must not be too thick, and the artichokes must be
well done ; they must not be in puree ; they are good with or
served under any white meat.

162. Scooped Turnips. Proceed exactly the same, only
serve a little thinner : they will not do if stringy.

163. Button Onions. The same, only make the sauce
thinner, and boil longer, according to their size.

SAUCES. 73

164. Young Carrots. Scrape and trim to shape twenty
small and young carrots, pass in sugar and butter, add white
or brown sauce, but keep it thinner, as it requires a longer time
boiling ; when tender, if for white sauce, add a tablespoonful
of liaison, stir, and serve.

165. White Mushroom Sauce. Use small white ones; cut
the dark part out and remove the tail, wash in several waters,

Eut in a stewpan with a little butter, salt, pepper, juice of
;mon, saute it for a few minutes, add a gill of white sauce,
four table-spoonfuls of broth, milk, or water ; boil and serve
under any white meat.

166. White Cucumber Sauce. Peel two cucumbers, divide
each lengthways into four, remove the pips, and cut into pieces
one inch long ; add, in stewpan one ounce of butter, a tea-
spoonful of sugar, half of salt, let it stew on the fire for fifteen
minutes, then add a gill of white sauce, six spoonfuls of milk,
broth, or water, simmer gently and skim, add a tablespoonful
of liaison, and serve where directed, but observe that all these
garnitures ought to be served under the meat and over poultry.

167. Ragout of Quenelles. Make twelve nice small que-
nelles (see Quenelles), warm half a pint of white sauce, in which
you have put four tablespoonfuls of milk, and half a teaspoonful
of eschalot ; when well done, pour on the liaison over with the
juice of a lemon, and serve. A few English truffles or mush-
rooms may be added to this sauce.

168. Maitre d 1 Hotel Sauce. Put eight spoonfuls of white
sauce in a stewpan, with four of white stock or milk ; boil it
five minutes, then stir in two ounces of maitre d'hotel butter ;
stir it quickly over the fire until the butter is melted, but do
not let the sauce boil after the butter is in ; this sauce should
only be made at the time of serving.

169. Green Peas Stewed. Put a pint of young peas, boiled
very green, into a stewpan, with three table-spoonftils of white

74 SAUCES.

sauce, two ounces of butter, a little sugar and salt, and two
button onions, with parsley, tied together ; boil them ten min-
utes ; add two tablespoonfuls of liaison, stir it in quickly, and
serve.

170. Green Peas, with Bacon. Put a pint of well-boiled
peas into a stewpan, with five spoonfuls of brown sauce, two of
brown gravy, a teaspoonful of sugar, two button onions, and a
bunch of parsley ; let it boil about ten minutes ; have ready
braised about a quarter of a pound of lean bacon, cut it in dice
about a quarter of an inch square, add it to the peas, take out
the onions and parsley, season with an ounce of butter and half
a teaspoonful of sugar ; mix well together, stew twenty minutes,
and serve.

171. Blanched Mushrooms. Get a pottle of fresh mush-
rooms, cut off the dirt, and likewise the heads (reserving the
stalk for chopping), wash the heads in a basin of clean water,
take them out and drain in a sieve ; put into a stewpan two
wine-glasses of cold water, one ounce of butter, the juice of half
a good lemon, and a little salt ; turn or peel each head neatly,
and put them into the stewpan immediately, or they will turn
black ; set your stewpan on a brisk fire, let them boil quickly
five minutes, put them into a basin ready for use ; chop the
stalks and peel very fine, put them into a stewpan with three
tablespoonfuls of the liquor the mushrooms have been boiled in ;
let them simmer three minutes, put them into a jar, and use
where indicated.

Observe : Turning or peeling mushrooms is an art that prac-
tice alone can attain ; if they are very fresh and white, wash
them quickly, and wipe them on a cloth ; throw them into the
liquid above mentioned.

172. Onions Stuffed. Peel twelve large onions, cut a piece
off at the top and bottom to give them a flat appearance, and
which adds a better flavor if left, blanch them in four quarts
of boiling water twenty minutes, then lay them on a cloth to
dry ; take the middle out of each onion, and fill them with veal
forcemeat (with a little chopped eschalot, parsley, and mush-

SOUPS. 75

room, mixed in it), and put them in a saute-pan well buttered,
cover them with white broth, let them simmer over a slow fire
until covered with a glaze, and tender ; turn them over and
serve where required.

173. Hot Tartar Sauce. Put two table-spoonfuls of white
sauce in a small stewpan, four of broth or milk, boil a few min-
utes, then add two tablespoonfuls of the tartar sauce (see Salads)
in it, stir it very quick with a wooden spoon, make it quite hot
but not boiling ; put it on a dish, and serve where described.

174. Mephistophelian Sauce. Do not be afraid of the title, for
it has nothing diabolical about it ; the first time I tried it was at Mr.
B.'s birthday party ; and some of his friends having over and over again
drank his health, till he had hardly any health left to carry him to the
drawing-room, where the coffee was waiting, about eleven o'clock, hav-
ing asked for some anchovy sandwiches, but, from a mistake, not having
any in the house, I composed this ravigotante sauce, which partly
brought them back to their senses.

I cut up the remains of the turkey, rubbed some mustard
over it, sprinkled a little salt and plenty of cayenne, put it on the
gridiron on the fire, and made the following sauce : I chopped
six eschalots, washed and pressed them in the corner of a clean
cloth, then put them into a stewpan with one and a half wine-
glassful of Chili vinegar, a chopped clove, a piece of garlic, two
bay-leaves, an ounce of glaze, and boiled all together for ten
minutes ; then added four tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, a lit-
tle sugar, and ten of gravy or brown sauce ; boiled it a few
minutes longer, then added a pat of butter, stirring it well in,
removed the bay-leaf, and poured over turkey, and served.

SOUPS.

IN France, no dinner is served without soup, and no good soup is sup-
posed to be made without the pot-au-feu (see No. 215), it being the na-
tional dish of the middle and poorer classes of that country ; thinking
it might be of service to the working classes, by showing the benefits to
be derived from more frequently partaking of a hot dinner, as I have

76 SOUPS.

previously observed, especially in a cold climate like ours. Clear light
soups are very delicate, and in this country more fit for the wealthy ;
whilst the more substantial thick soups, such as mock turtle, ox-tail, peas,
<fec., are more in vogue, consequent to being better adapted to the million ;
therefore, after giving a few series of clear soups, I shall proceed to
give a greater variety of the thicker sorts, being careful that every re-
ceipt shall be so plain as to give a correct idea of its cost.

175. Stock for all kinds of Soup. Procure a knuckle of
veal about six pounds in weight, which cut into pieces about
the size of an egg, as also half a pound of lean ham or bacon ;
then rub a quarter of a pound of butter upon the bottom of
the stewpan (capable of holding about two gallons), into which
put the meat and bacon, with half a pint of water, two ounces
of salt, three middle-sized onions, with two cloves in each, one
turnip, a carrot, half a leek, and half a head of celery ; put the
cover upon the stewpan, which place over a sharp fire, occasion-
ally stirring round its contents with a wooden spoon, until the
bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white thickish glaze,
which will lightly adhere to the spoon ; fill up the stewpan
with cold water, and when upon the point of boiling, draw it
to the corner of the fire, where it must gently simmer for three
hours, carefully skimming off every particle of grease and
scum ; pass your stock through a fine hair sieve, and it is ready
for use when required.

The above will make a delicious broth for all kinds of clear
soups, and of course for thick soups or purees ; by boiling it
rather faster about five minutes before passing, you will be bet-
ter enabled to take off every particle of grease from the sur-
face. In making a stock of beef proceed as above, but allow
double the time to simmer ; mutton or lamb, if any trimmings,
might also be used ; if beef, use seven pounds ; if mutton,
eight ; or lamb, seven, of course bones and all included ; with
care, this broth would be quite clear. To give a little color, a's
required for all clear soups, use a little brown gravy or brown-
ing, but never attempt to brown it by letting it color at ths
bottom of the stewpan, for in that case you would destroy the
greater part of the osmazome.

176. Another way, more economical. Instead of cutting up
the knuckle of veal so small, cut it in four or five pieces only,

SOUPS. 77

and leave the bacon in one piece; then, when the broth is
passed, take out the veal, which is very excellent served with a
little of the broth for gravy, and the bacon with a few greens
upon another dish. This is as I always eat it myself; but some
persons would probably prefer a little parsley-and-butter sauce
or sharp sauce, served with it. Should any of the veal be left
until cold, it might be cut into thin slices, and gradually warmed
in either of the before-mentioned sauces. Should you make
your stock from the leg or shin of beef, stew it double the time,
preserve the vegetables boiled in the stock, and serve with beef,
or serve the beef with some nice sharp sauce over ; the remainder,
if cold, may also be hashed in the ordinary way. If of mutton,
and you have used the scrags of the neck, the breast, head, or
the chump of the loin, keep them in as large pieces as possible ;
and, when done, serve with a few mashed turnips, and caper
sauce, separately ; if any remaining until cold, mince it. Lamb
would be seldom used for stock, being much too expensive ; but
in case of an abundance, which there sometimes is in the country,
proceed the same as for mutton.

177. Brown Gravies. Rub an ounce of butter over the
bottom of a stewpan which would hold about three quarts;
have ready peeled four onions, cut them into thick slices, with
which cover the bottom of the stewpan ; over these lay about
two pounds of beef from the leg or shin, cut into thin slices,
with the bone chopped very small, add a small carrot, a turnip
cut in slices, and a couple of cloves ; set the stewpan upon a
gentle fire for ten minutes, shaking it round occasionally to pre-
vent burning ; after which, let it go upon a slow fire for upwards
of an hour, until the bottom is covered with a blackish glaze,
but not burnt ; when properly done, and ready for filling up,
you will perceive the fat that runs from the meat quite clear,
fill up the stewpan with cold water, add a teaspoonful of salt ;
and when upon the point of boiling, set it on a corner of the fire,
where let it simmer gently about an hour, skimming off all the
fat and scum which may rise to the surface ; when done, pass
it through a fine sieve into a basin, and put by to use for the
following purposes : For every kind of roast meat, poultry, or
game especially ; also to give a good color to soups and sauces.
This gravy will keep several days, by boiling it every other day.

78 SOUPS.

Although beef is the most proper meat for the above purpose,
it may be made of veal, mutton, lamb, or even with fresh pork,
rabbits, or poultry.

178. Browning. When in business, and not so much time
to devote to the kitchen, I used to make shift with a browning
from the following receipt, using, however, but a very few drops :
put two ounces of powdered sugar into a middling-sized stew-
pan, which place over a slow fire ; when beginning to melt, stir
it round with a wooden spoon until getting quite black, then
pour over half a pint of cold water : leave it to dissolve, and
take a little for use when required.

179. Glaze is an almost indispensable article in a cuisine
bourgeoise, and should be kept by all persons in the middle
classes of life, the advantage being that it will keep for months
together, is very simple to make, and is always useful in cookeiy,
however humble ; in fact, with it you can dress a very good
dinner with very little trouble.

Make a stock as directed in No. 175, but omitting the salt,
which, when done, pass through a cloth into a basin ; then fill
the stewpan up a second time with hot water, and let boil four
hours longer to obtain all the succulence from the meat, then
pass it through a cloth the same as the first ; then pour both
stocks in a large stewpan together, set it over the fire, and let
it boil as fast as possible, leaving a large spoon in, to stir occa-
sionally and prevent its boiling over ; when reduced to about
three pints, pour it into a smaller stewpan, set again to boil at
the corner, skimming well if required ; when reduced to a quart,
place it quite over the fire, well stirring with a wooden spoon
until forming a thickish glaze (which will adhere to the spoon)
of a fine yellowish-brown color ; pour it into a basin, or, if for
keeping any time, into a long bladder, from which cut a slice
and use where directed.

Where, however, only a small quantity is required, reduce
only the second stock, using the first for either soup or sauce ;
but in that case the salt must not be omitted from the first stock,
but from the second only. Veal at all times makes the best
glaze, but any kinds of meat, game, or poultry will prod uce more
or less.

SOUPS. 79

180. To clarify Stock, if required. In case, by some acci-
dent, your stock should not be clear, put it (say three quarts)
into a stewpan, and place it over a good fire, skim well, and,
when boiling, have ready the whites of three eggs (carefully
separated from their yolks), to which add half a pint of water ;
whisk well together ; then add half a pint of the boiling stock
gradually, still whisking the eggs ; then whisk the boiling stock,
pouring the whites of eggs, &c., in whilst so doing, which con-
tinue until nearly boiling again, then take it from the fire, let it
remain until the whites of eggs separate themselves, pass it
through a clean fine cloth into a basin ; this must be taken as
a rule for every kind of clear soup, which must be strictly followed
by every person wishing to profit by this little work. These
principles, once learned, would be useful at all times, and save
a great deal of useless reference in the perusal of these receipts ;
and no persons can make themselves answerable for the success
of any individual in making soups if the instructions recom-
mended be not strictly followed. The following rule should be
therefore punctually attended to.

All clear soups ought not to be too strong of meat, and must
be of a light brown sherry or straw color. All white or brown
thick soups should be rather thin, with just sufficient consistency
to adhere lightly to a spoon when hot, soups of fish, poultry, or
game especially. All purees, no matter whether of meat or
vegetables, require to be somewhat thicker, which may be as-
certained by its adhering more thickly to the spoon. Every
Italian soup must be very clear, rather stronger of meat, and
the color of pale sherry.

By following the few foregoing observations, experience will teach
you volumes ; for as there is a great difference in the quality of different
materials (flour, for instance, which, if strong, would tend to thicken, but,
if weak, actually almost turns to water by boiling), therefore your judg-
ment, with the above few important remarks, will make you more per-
fect than the most precise quantities of weights and measurements, upon
that important point.

181. Clear Vegetable Soup. Peel a middling-sized carrot
and turnip, which cut first into slices, then into small square
pieces about the size of dice ; peel also eighteen button onions ;
wash the whole in cold water, and drain them upon a sieve ;
when dry, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter

80 SOUPS.

and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar ; set them upon a very
sharp fire for ten minutes, tossing them over every now and
then until the vegetables become covered with a thin shiny
glaze, which may take rather more than the before-mentioned
time ; care, however, must be taken, for should you let them
get brown, the flavor of the soup would be spoiled ; whilst, upon
the other hand, if put in whilst surrounded with a whitish liquid,
your soup would look white and unsightly ; with a little atten-
tion, however, success is certain ; and, once accomplished, there
would be no difficulty in making any vegetable soups or sauce,
therefore it is very desirable to know how to do it properly.
When done, pour two quarts of clear broth over them, set it-
upon the fire, and when upon the point of boiling, place it at
the corner to simmer, until the vegetables are quite tender (the
onions especially), carefully skimming off all the butter as it
rises to the surface ; it will require about half an hour's simmer-
ing, and there should be half a pound of vegetables to two
quarts of stock ; taste if properly seasoned, which it ought to
be with the above proportions, but use your own judgment ac-
cordingly.

By following the last process correctly, the only difference to
be made in those descriptions of soup is in the shape the vege-
tables are cut.

182. Printaniere Soup. Cut a small quantity of vegetables
as in the last, but rather less carrot and turnip, introducing a
little celery, leek, and young spring onions, instead of the button
onions ; proceed exactly as before, but ten minutes before taking
it from the fire, wash a few leaves of sorrel, which cut small and
put into the soup, with six sprigs of chervil ; in summer, a few
fresh-boiled peas or French beans served in it is an improve-
ment.

In whatever shape you may cut the vegetables for soup, al-
ways be cautious not to cut some pieces larger than others, and
the whole of them rather small than large ; for if some pieces
should be small and others large, the smaller pieces would be
quite in puree, whilst the larger ones would still be quite hard,
which would cause your soup not only to eat badly, but give it
an unsightly appearance, for the vegetable boiled to a puree
would make the soup thick. The above remark, although simple,
is still very important.

SOUPS. 81

183. Julienne Soup. This soup is entirely the hereditary
property of France, and is supposed to be so called from the
months of June and July, when all vegetables are in full season ;
and to make it in reality as originally made, a small quantity
of every description of vegetables should be used, including
lettuce, sorrel, and tarragon ; however, some few sorts of vege-
tables mixed together make a most estimable soup. Weigh
half a pound of the vegetables in fair proportions to each other ;
that is, carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and leeks, which cut into
small fillets an inch in length, and of the thickness of a trussing-
needle ; when done, wash dry, and pass them in butter and sugar
as before, proceeding the same with the soup, adding just before
it is done a little sorrel, cabbage-lettuce, and chervil or peas, if
handy, but it would be excellent without either.

184. Clear Turnip Soup. Cut, with a round vegetable
scoop, about forty pieces of turnip, of the shape and size of
small marbles, which put into a stewpan, with sugar and but-
ter as before, but fry them of a light brownish color, and finish the
soup, as in the previous receipts. A tablespoonful of Italian
paste, previously half boiled in water, then drained and finished
in the soup, is also an improvement.

185. Clear Artichoke Soup. Peel twelve Jerusalem arti-
chokes, which well wash, then cut as many round scoops as
possible, the same as in the last, proceeding exactly the same.
The remainder of either turnips, artichokes, or carrots may be
boiled, and mashed with a little butter, pepper, and salt, and
served as a vegetable, or reserved to make a soup puree ; the
remains of other vegetables from the previous soups should also
be reserved for flavoring of stock, instead of using the fresh
vegetables.

186. Vermicelli. Put a quart of clear stock into a stewpan
upon the fire, and when boiling add two ounces of vermicelli ;
boil gently ten minutes, and it is ready to serve.

187. Italian Paste. Procure some small Italian paste, in
4*

82 SOUPS.

stars, rings, or any other shape, but small ; put on a quart of
stock, and when boiling, add two ounces of the paste ; boil
twenty minutes, or rather more, when it is ready to serve.

188. Semoulina. When the stock is boiling, add two
tablespoonfuls of semoulina ; boil twenty minutes, and it is
then done. Proceed the same also with tapioca and sago.

189. Macaroni. Boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni, in
a quart of water, for ten minutes, then strain it off, and throw
it into two quarts of boiling stock ; let simmer gently for half
an hour, when serve, with grated cheese, upon a plate sepa-
rately.

190. Rice. Well wash two ounces of the best rice, strain
off the water, put the rice into a stewpan, with a quart of cold
stock, place it upon the fire, and let simmer about half an hour,
until the rice is very tender, but not in pulp.

191. Mutton Broth. Any description of trimmings of mut-
ton may be used for broth, but the scrag ends of the neck are
usually chosen ; put two scrags into a stewpan (having previ-
ously jointed the bones), with three onions, three turnips, and
one carrot, fill up the stewpan with a gallon of water, and place
it upon the fire ; when boiling set it at the corner, where let it
simmer for three hours, keeping it well skimmed ; then cut a
small carrot, two turnips, an onion, with a little leek and celery,
into small square pieces, which put into another stewpan, with
a wineglassful of pearl-barley ; skim every particle of fat from
the broth, which pour through a hair sieve over them ; let the
whole boil gently at the comer of the fire until the barley is
tender, when it is ready to serve ; the meat may be trimmed
into neat pieces and served with the broth, or separately with
melted butter and parsley, or onion sauce. Half or even a
quarter of the above quantity can be made by reducing the
ingredients in proportion.

192. Irish Soup made of Mutton Broth. This soup is

SOUPS. 83

made similar to the last, adding ten or twelve mealy potatoes,
cut into large dice, omitting the other vegetables, which, being
boiled to a puree, thickens the broth; just before serving,
throw in twenty heads of parsley, and at the same time add a
few flowers of marigold, which will really give it a very pleas-
ing flavor.

193. Scotch Cock-a-leelcie. Trim two or three bunches of
fine winter leeks, cutting off the roots and part of the heads,
then split each in halves lengthwise, and each half into three,
which wash well in two or three waters, then put them into a
stewpan, with a stock previously made as directed (No. 175),
and a fowl trussed as for boiling ; let the whole simmer very
gently at the corner of the fire for three hours, keeping it well
skimmed, seasoning a little if required ; half an hour before
serving add two dozen French plums, without breaking them ;
when ready to serve, take out the fowl, which cut into neat
pieces, place them in a tureen, and pour the leeks and broth
over, the leeks being then partly in puree ; if too thick, how-
ever, add a drop more broth or water. Should the leeks hap-
pen to be old and strong, it would be better to blanch them
five minutes in a gallon of boiling water previous to putting them
in the stock.

I prefer a young fowl ; but, should an old one be most
handy, stew it a short time in the stock before passing it. This
soup will keep good several days, and would improve by warm-
ing a second time.

194. Ox-tail Soup. Cut up two ox-tails, separating them
at the joints, put a small piece of butter at the bottom of a
stewpan, then put in the ox-tails, with a carrot, a turnip, three
onions, a head of celery, a leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme,
and bay-leaf; and half a pint of water, and twelve grains of
whole pepper, set over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally, until
the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a thickish brown
glaze, then add a quarter of a pound of flour, stir it well in, and
fill up the stewpan with three quarts of water, add a table-
spoonful of salt, and stir occasionally until boiling, when set it
upon the corner of the stove, skim well, add a gill of good
brown gravy, or a few drops of browning, and let simmer until

84 SOUPS.

the tails are stewed very tender, the flesh coming easily from
the bones, then take them out immediately, and put them into
your tureen ; pass the soup through a hair sieve over them,
add a head of celery, previously cut small, and boiled in a little
stock, and serve.

Ox-tail soup may also be made clear by omitting the flour,
and serving with vegetables, as directed for the clear vegetable
soup (No. 181).

195. Ox-cheek Soup. Blanch in boiling water two ox-
cheeks, cut off the beard, take away all the bone, which chop
up, and cut the flesh into middling-sized pieces, leaving the
cheek -part whole *, put all together into a stewpan, with four
quarts of water, a little salt, ten peppercorns, two carrots, two
turnips, one leek, one head of celery, and a bunch of parsley,
thyme, and bay-leaf; let it stew at the corner of the fire six
hours, keeping it well skimmed, then take out the fleshy part
of the cheeks, and pass the broth through a hair-sieve into
another stewpan ; mix a quarter of a pound of flour with a
pint of cold broth, which pour into it, and stir over the fire
until boiling, when place it at the corner (adding two heads of
celery, cut very fine, and a glass of sherry) ; when the celery is
tender, cut the meat into small square pieces, keep them warm
in the tureen, and when the soup is ready, pour over, and
serve ; give it a nice color with browning.

Sheeps' or lambs' heads also make very good soup by follow-
ing the above receipt, and adding two pounds of veal, mutton,
or beef to the stock : two heads would be sufficient, and they
would not require so long to stew.

196. White Mock-turtle Soup. Procure half a calf's head
(scalded, not skinned), bone it, then cut up a knuckle of veal,
which put into a stewpan, well buttered at the bottom, with
half a pound of lean ham, an ounce of salt, a carrot, a turnip,
three onions, a head of celery, a leek, a bunch of parsley, and
a bay-leaf, add half a pint of water ; set it upon the fire, mov-
ing it round occasionally, until the bottom of the stewpan is
covered with a white glaze ; then add six quarts of water, and
put in the half head, let simmer upon the corner of the fire for

SOUPS. 85

two hours and a half, or until the head is tender, then take it
out, and press it between two dishes, and pass the stock through
a hair sieve into a basin ; then in another stewpan have a
quarter of a pound of butter, with a sprig of thyme, basil,
marjoram, and bay-leaf, let the butter get quite hot, then add
six ounces of flour to form a roux, stir over a sharp fire a few
minutes, keeping it quite white ; stand it off the fire to cool,
then add the stock, stir over the fire until boiling, then stand
it at the corner, skim off all the fat, and pass it through a hair
sieve into another stewpan ; cut the head into pieces an inch
square, but not too thick, and put them into the soup, which
season with a little cayenne pepper ; when the pieces are hot,
add a gill of cream, and pour it into your tureen.

The above quantity would make two tureens of soup, and
will keep good several days, but of course half the quantity
could be made.

197. Brown Mock-turtle. Proceed the same as in the last
article, only coloring the stock by drawing it down to a brown
glaze, likewise adding half a pint of brown gravy (No. 177),
omitting the cream, and adding two glasses of sherry.

198. Mulligatawny Soup. Cut up a knuckle of veal, which
put into a stewpan, with a piece of butter, half a pound of
lean ham, a carrot, a turnip, three onions, and six apples, add
half a pint of water ; set the stewpan over a sharp fire, moving
the meat round occasionally, let remain until the bottom of the
stewpan is covered with a brownish glaze, then add three table-
spoonfuls of curry powder, one of curry paste, and half a pound
of flour, stir well in, and fill the stewpan with a gallon of
water ; add a spoonful of salt, the half of one of sugar, when
boiling, place it at the corner of the fire, and let it simmer two
hours and a half, skimming off all the fat as it rises, then pass
it through a tammy into a tureen ; trim some of the pieces of
veal, and put it back in the stewpan to boil, and serve with
plain boiled rice separate. Ox-tails or pieces of rabbits, chick-
ens, &c., left from a previous dinner may be served in it instead
of the veal. The veal is exceedingly good to eat.

199. Giblet Soup. Clean two sets of giblets, which soak

86 SOUPS.

for two hours, cut them into equal sizes, and put them into a
stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, four pounds of
veal or beef, half a pound of ham, a carrot, a turnip, three on-
ions, two ounces of salt, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and
bay-leaves ; place the stewpan over a sharp fire, stirring the
meat round occasionally ; when the bottom of the stewpan is
covered with a light glaze, add a quarter of a pound of flour,
stir well in, and fill up with a gallon of water, add about a pint
of brown gravy (No. 177), stir occasionally until boiling, then
set it at the corner of the stove to simmer, keeping it well
skimmed; when the giblets are tender, take them out, put
them into your tureen, pass the soup through a hair sieve over,
and serve ; twenty cooked button onions, or any small-shaped
vegetables served in it, is very good, as is also a glass of port
wine.

200. Oyster Soup. Put four dozen of oysters into a stew-
pan with their liquor, place them upon the fire, when upon the
point of boiling, drain them upon a sieve, catching the liquor
in a basin ; take off the beards, which put into the liquor, put-
ting the oysters into a soup tureen ; then put a quarter of a
pound of butter into another stewpan over the fire, and when
melted add six ounces of flour, stir over a slow fire for a short
time, but keeping it quite white ; let it cool, then add the liquor
and beards of the oysters, a quart of milk, and two quarts of
stock (No. 17 5), stir over the fire until boiling, then season
with a teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of cayenne pep-
per, five peppercorns, half a blade of mace, a tablespoonful of
Harvey sauce, half ditto of essence of anchovies; let boil
quickly at the corner for ten minutes, skim it well, add a gill
of cream, if handy, strain through a hah- sieve over the oys-
ters, and serve.

201. The Fisherman's Soup. Put a quarter of a pound
of butter into a stewpan, and when melted add six ounces of
flour, stir well together over a slow fire a few minutes, when
cool, add one quart of milk, and two quarts of stock (No. 175),
stir over a fire until boiling; having previously filleted two
soles, add the bones and trimmings to the soup, with four
cloves, one blade of mace, two bay-leaves, one spoonful of es-

SOUPS. 87

sence of anchovies, one ditto of Harvey sauce, half a saltspoon-
ful of cayenne, a little sugar and salt if required; let the
whole boil quickly at the corner for ten minutes, keeping it
well skimmed ; cut each fillet of sole into six pieces, put them
into another stewpan, with half a handful of picked parsley,
pass the soup through a hair sieve over, boil again ten minutes,
add a gill of cream, if handy, and it is ready to serve.

202. Autumn Soup. Cut up four cabbage-lettuces, one
cos ditto, a handful of sorrel, and a little tarragon and chervil,
when well washed and drained, put them into a stewpan, with
two cucumbers finely sliced, and two ounces of butter, place
them over a brisk fire, stirring occasionally, until very little
liquid remains, then add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring
it well in, then pour over three quarts of stock, made as
directed (No. 1*75), adding a quart of young and fresh green
peas ; half an hour's boiling will suffice for this delicious soup,
and the flavor of the vegetables will be fully preserved; season
with a teaspoonful of salt, and two of sugar.

203. Hodge Podge. Cut two pounds of fresh scrag of mut-
ton into small pieces, which put into a stewpan, with three
quarts of cold water and a tablespoonful of salt, set it upon the
fire, and when boiling place it at the corner to simmer, keep-
ing it well skimmed ; let it simmer an hour, then add a good-
sized carrot, two turnips, two large onions cut into small dice,
and six cabbage-lettuces, if in season (the whole well washed),
and let simmer until quite tender ; skim off all the fat, and
serve either with the meat in the soup or separately. If in
season, a pint of green peas boiled in the soup is a great im-
provement.

204. French Cabbage Soup. This is a soup very much in
vogue amongst the middle classes of the French people ; it is
very economical, and may satisfy a numerous family at a trifling
expense. Put a gallon of water into a saucepan, with two
pounds of streaky pickled pork or bacon, whichever most con-
venient, to which add a couple of pounds of white cabbage,
cut in strips (using every part but the stalk, and previously well

88 SOUPS.

washed), two large onions, a carrot, a turnip, and a head of
celery ; let the whole boil three or four hours, until the pork is
tender, skimming off all the fat, season with a little black pep-
per, brown sugar, and salt, if required (which is not very fre-
quently the case, the pork or bacon generally being sufficiently
so), lay slices of bread in your tureen (about one pound), pour
the soup over ; keep the tureen covered ten minutes, until the
bread is soaked, and it is ready to serve. The pork or bacon
may be either served separate or cut into small square pieces,
and served in the soup. A few mealy potatoes are sometimes
introduced, or a quart of large green peas, or a pint of dry
split peas. You must observe that vegetables in France are
much more used than in this country, as there are but few poor
people there who do not possess a little garden, in which they
grow their own.

It is also frequently made maigre by omitting the pork or
bacon, adding more vegetables of all kinds, and a quarter of a
pound of butter, and frequently where they have nothing else
but cabbage, they make it only of that ; now setting all national
feeling aside respecting the poverty of their meals, I have known
strong healthy men make a hearty meal of it, preferring it to
meat, of which they scarcely ever partake.

205. Puree of Vegetable Soup. Peel and cut up very finely
three onions, three turnips, one carrot, and four potatoes, which
put into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, the
same of lean ham, and a bunch of parsley ; pass them ten
minutes over a sharp fire, when add a good spoonful of flour,
which mix well in, add two quarts of stock, and a pint of boil-
ing milk, stir it until boiling ; season with a little salt and
sugar, rub it through a tammy, put it into another stewpan,
boil again, skim and serve with croutons of fried bread as for
Palestine Soup. It ought to be thickish.

206. Palestine Soup, or Puree of Artichokes. Have a
quarter of a pound of lean bacon or ham, as also an onion, a
turnip, and a little celery, cut the whole into small thin slices,
and put them into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter ; place
them over a sharp fire, keeping them stirred, about twenty

SOUPS. 89

minutes, or until forming a whitish glaze at the bottom, then
have ready washed, peeled, and cut into thin slices, the arti-
chokes, which put into the stewpan with a pint of broth or water,
and stew until quite tender, then mix in two tablespoonfuls of
flour quite smoothly, add two quarts of stock made as directed
(No. 17 5), and half a pint of milk ; keep it constantly stirred
until boiling ; season with a teaspoonful of salt, and two of
sugar, then rub it through a tammy, place it again in a stew-
pan ; let it boil five minutes, keeping it well skimmed, and
serve with very small croutons of bread (fried in butter, and
dried upon a cloth) in the tureen ; a gill of cream, stirred in at
the moment of serving, is a great improvement, although it
may be omitted.

207. Puree of Cauliflower Soup. Proceed as described for
the puree of artichokes, but omitting the artichokes, and sub-
stituting four middling-sized cauliflowers, previously boiled and
chopped fine.

A puree of turnips is likewise made in the same manner as
a puree of artichokes, substituting turnips for artichokes, and
adding half a tablespoonful more of flour. A puree of white
Belgian carrot, called " Crecy a la Reine," is made in the same
way, and is uncommon and delicate.

208. Crecy Soup, or Puree of Carrots. Procure five or
six large carrots, as red as possible, which well scrape, then
shave them into very thin slices, taking off' all the exterior red,
but not using the centre, then peel and slice a large onion, a
turnip, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, a few sprigs of pars-
ley, and two bay-leaves ; put them into a stewpan, with four
ounces of butter, fry the whole of a light yellowish color, then
add the carrot, with a pint of water, and let them stew until
perfectly tender, mix in two ounces of flour quite smoothly, and
add five pints of stock (No. 175) ; season with a little salt and
sugar, and stir upon the fire until boiling, a quarter of an hour,
when pass it through a tammy, and finish and serve as in the
preceding ; no cream, however, must be added. This soup
ought to be of a red color.

209. Green Pea Soup. Put two quarts of green peas into

90 SOUPS.

a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a quarter of a
pound of lean ham, cut into small dice, two onions in slices,
and a few sprigs of parsley ; add a quart of cold water, and
with the hands rub all well together ; then pour off the water,
cover the stewpan close, and stand it over a sharp fire, stirring
the contents round occasionally ; when very tender, add two
tablespoonfuls of flour, which mix well in mashing the peas
with your spoon against the sides of the stewpan, add two quarts
of stock, or broth from the Pot-au-feu, a tablespoonful of sugar,
and a little pepper and salt, if required ; boil all well together
five minutes, when rub it through a tammy or hair sieve ; then
put it into another stewpan, with a pint of boiling milk ; boil
five minutes, skim well, and pour it into your tureen. It must
not be too thick, serve with croutons of bread as for Palestine.

210. Winter Pea Soup. Wash a quart of split peas, which
put into a stewpan, with half a pound of streaky bacon, two
onions in slices, two pounds of veal or beef, cut into small
pieces, and a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, add a gallon
of water, with a little salt and sugar, place it upon the fire, and
when boiling, stand it at the side until the peas are boiled to a
puree, and the water has reduced to half, then take out the
meat, which put upon a dish, to be eaten with the bacon, keep-
ing it hot, rub the soup through a hair sieve or tammy, put it
into another stewpan, and when boiling, serve. The meat may
also be served in the tureen if approved of. Maigre pea soup
may also be made by omitting the meat, adding half a pound
of butter, one quart of milk, and omitting a quart of water.

211. Lentil Soup. Cut three onions, a turnip, and the half
of a carrot into very thin slices, which put into a stewpan, with
a quarter of a pound of butter, a few sprigs of parsley, a sprig
of thyme, and two bay-leaves, add also two pounds of leg of
beef, cut into small dice ; set the stewpan upon the fire, stirring
with a wooden spoon, until its contents are fried rather brownish,
when add one quart of lentils, and three of water, let the whole
simmer until the lentils are very tender, when season with nearly
an ounce of salt, and half that quantity of sugar ; it is then ready
to serve.

SOUPS. 91

To make a puree of lentils : when the soup is made, strain
off the broth, add a good spoonful of flour to the lentils, which
mash with a wooden spoon against the side of the stewpan ;
then again put in the broth, boil all up together, keeping it
stirred with a spoon ; rub it through a tammy or hair sieve,
again boil and skim, and it is ready ; serve with a few croutons
of bread, as directed for Palestine soup.

212. Maigre Soup. Cut two onions into veiy small dice,
and put them into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter ; fry
them a short time, but not to discolor them ; have ready three
or four handfuls of well-washed sorrel, which cut into ribands
and put into the stewpan with the onions, add one tablespoon-
ful of flour, then mix well a pint of milk and a quart of water ;
boil altogether twenty minutes, keeping it stirred ; season with
a teaspoonful of sugar and salt, take it from the fire, and stir in
quickly a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream
or milk (it must not boil afterwards), put the crust of a French
roll, cut into strips, in the tureen, pour the soup over, and serve
very hot.

213. Onion Soup Maigre. Peel and cut six large onions
into small dice, put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a
pound of butter, place them over the fire until well fried, when
well mix in a tablespoonful of flour, and rather better than a
quart of water ; boil until the onions are quite tender, season
with a spoonful of salt and a little sugar ; finish with a liaison,
and serve as in the last.

214. Hare Soup. Put half a pound of butter into a stew-
pan, and, when melted, add three quarters of a pound of flour,
and half a pound of streaky bacon, cut into very small pieces ;
keep stirring over the fire until becoming lightly browned. You
have previously cut up a hare into neat smallish pieces ; put
them into the stewpan, and keep stirring round over the fire,
until they are set ; then fill it up with five quarts of water, add
two onions, a head of celery, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and
bay -leaves, a blade of mace, and four cloves ; when boiling,
season with one ounce of salt and a little pepper, and let it

92 SOUPS.

simmer at the corner until the pieces of hare are done, which
would be in about an hour if a young hare, but double that
time if a very old one ; the better plan is to try a piece occa-
sionally. When done, take out the best pieces, and the inferior
ones pound in a mortar, removing the bones, put it back in the
soup, and pass all through a tammy, boil for ten minutes, and
put it again into a stewpan, and serve. The above quantity
would be sufficient for two tureens. A glass of wine may be
added. Rabbit, pheasant, grouse, partridge, and other game
soups, may be made in the same way.

215. French Pot-au-feu. Out of this earthen pot comes the
favorite soup and bouilli, which has been everlastingly famed
as having been the support of many generations of all classes of
society in France ; from the opulent to the poorest individuals,
all pay tribute to its excellence and worth. In fact this soup
and bouilli is to the French what the roast beef and plum-pud-
ding is on a Sunday to the English. No dinner in France is
served without soup, and no good soup is supposed to be made
without the pot-au-feu.

The following is the receipt: Put in the pot-au-feu six
pounds of beef, four quarts of water, set near the fire, skim ;
when nearly boiling add a spoonful and a half of salt, half a
pound of liver, two carrots, four turnips, eight young or two old
leeks, one head of celery, two onions and one burnt, with a clove
in each, and a piece of parsnip, skim again, and let simmer four
or five hours, adding a little cold water now and then ; take off
part of the fat, put slices of bread into the tureen, lay half the
vegetables over, and half the broth, and serve the meat separate
with the vegetables around.

CRAB SOUP. We add to the list of M. Soyer's soups, a
receipt for a purely American soup, a great favorite at the
South, and esteemed a great luxury by those who have eaten
of it. ED.

[Open and cleanse twelve young fat crabs (raw), and cut
them into two parts ; parboil and extract the meat from the
claws, and the fat from the top shell. Scald eighteen ripe
tomatos ; skin them and squeeze the pulp from the seed, and

FISH. 93

chop it fine ; pour boiling water over the seed and juice, and
having strained it from the seed, use it to make the soup.
Stew a short time in the soup-pot three large onions, one clove
of garlic, in one spoonful of butter, two spoonfuls of lard, and
then put in the tomatos, and after stewing a few minutes, add
the meat from the crab claws, then the crabs, and last the fat
from the back shell of the crab ; sift over it grated bread-crumbs
or crackers. Season with salt, Cayenne and black pepper,
parsley, sweet marjoram, thyme, half teaspoonful lemon juice,
and the peel of a lemon ; pour in the water with which the
seed were scalded, and boil it moderately one hour.
Any firm fish may be substituted for the crab.]

FISH.

OF all aliments that have been given to the human race for nourish-
ment, none are more abundant or more easy of procuring than this ante-
diluvian species, and yet of how few do we make use, and how slight is
our knowledge of their habits, for it is only within the last few years
that the idea was exploded that the herrings made an annual migration
from the Arctic seas to deposit their spawn on the shores of the British
islands. It possesses, according to its kind, a greater or less degree of
nourishment, depending, like the animal, in a great measure on those beau-
tiful meadows at the bottom of the ocean, where it feeds ; for even those
which live upon some of a smaller kind, as the cod on the haddock, that
on the whiting, and that again on the mussel, or other crustaceous fish,
which move but little from the place where they were originally spawned,
derive their nourishment from the herbs and the animalculae which
those herbs produce that lay around them ; the cod on the southeast of
the Bank of Newfoundland is as fine again in flavor as that on the north-
west side. Fish, of course, do not afford the same amount of nourish-
ment as meat, as they contain but a slight quantity of osmazome ; but
its flesh is refreshing, and often exciting. A curious circumstance has
been observed in respect to the animate parts of the creation which
draw their nourishment from fish, as in birds and the human race, that
they produce more females when doing so than males.

It ought to be made an article of diet more often than it is, as the
particles it contains tend to purify the blood from the grossness it re-
ceives in partaking of animal food ; and when taken at the commence-
ment of dinner, tends to assist the digestion of those substances which
form the more substantial part of the meal.

In the receipts will be found those which I consider fit for the table ;

but, as a general rule to be observed, as in the feathered tribe, all those

of beautiful variegated colors are more unfit to eat than any other ; as if

the great Creator of all, in order to please man, had destined some for

94 FISH.

his nourishment, and others to gratify his senses by their melodious notes
and beautiful plumage.

Nothing indicates its freshness so well as fish ; the merest novice ought
to know it ; their gills should be difficult to open, be red, and swell
well ; fins tight and close ; eyes bright, and not sunk : the contrary to this
denotes their being stale.

Of the round fish, the SALMON is considered the best and most deli-
cate in flavor, but varies considerably, according to the river in which
it is caught ; for there is no doubt but that it returns to the river where
it was originally spawned, and its time of spawning varies in different
rivers. The male is the finest flavored fish, and has more curd than the
female. Of late years it has been considered that this fish should be
eaten as fresh as possible, for which purpose it is crimped when alive,
that it may be flaky, and the curd in it. In former times, it was con-
sidered best to keep it two or three days ; it is certain that, in keeping
it, the curd undergoes a change, which produces a volatile salt, oily and
balsamic particles, render it nutritive and invigorating ; it is diuretic,
pectoral, and restorative, and if eaten too profusely produces vomiting ;
but when the curd is in it, the flesh is hard and dry, lies heavy on the
stomach, and produces indigestion. This fish, when out of season, may
be distinguished by having large scarlet, purple, and blue spots on its
sides, the male snout long, the female snout hooked. When in season,
the color ought to be a silvery pink gray; when cooked, the flesh
should be of a dark rose color ; when out of season it is pale ; small-
headed fish are the best.

This fish was known to the Romans, who received it from Aquitaine
and the MoseUe.

216. Salmon, plain boiled. I prefer always dressing this
fish in slices from an inch to two inches in thickness, boiling it
in plenty of salt water about twenty minutes ; the whole fish
may be boiled, or the head and shoulders of a large fish, but
they require longer boiling. Salmon eats firmer by not being
put into the water until boiling. Dress the fish upon a napkin,
and serve with lobster sauce, shrimp ditto, or plain melted
butter in a boat, with fresh sprigs of parsley boiled a few min-
utes in it. A salmon weighing about ten pounds will require
an hour's gentle boiling ; a head and shoulders weighing six
pounds, half an hour; the remains may be dressed a la
creme, as directed for the turbot.

217. Salmon, Sauce Matelote. Cook three good slices of
salmon as directed in the last, or a large salmon peal trussed
in the form of the letter S, dress it upon a dish without a nap-
kin, having previously drained off all the water ; have ready
one quart of matelote sauce, under or over.

FISH. 95

To broil salmon, dip each piece in flour, put it on a grid-
iron, fifteen minutes will give it a nice pale color ; it should be
served with Dutch or caper sauce.

Cod. This fish, like the former, belongs to the northern parts of the
world ; its flavor and quality, like terrestrial animals, depend greatly
on its feeding-place, a few miles making a marked difference ; it is ex-
ceedingly voracious. Those are best with a small head and thick at
the neck

218. To boil Cod Fish. Crimped cod, as I have before re-
marked, is preferable to the plain ; it is likewise better cut in
slices than cooked whole ; to boil it well, have the water ready
boiling, with one pound of salt to every six quarts, put in your
fish, draw the fish-kettle to the corner of the fire, where let it
simmer slowly from twenty minutes to half an hour, when
done, the bone in the centre will draw out easily ; if boiled too
much, it would eat tough and stringy ; should the fish not be
crimped, add more salt to the water, it will cause the fish to
eat firmer.

219. Cod Fish sauced over with Oyster Sauce. Boil three
slices of the fish as above, drain and dress them upon a dish
without a napkin, blanch three dozen oysters, by putting them
into a stewpan, with their juice, upon the fire, move them round
occasionally, do not let them boil ; as soon as they become a
little firm, place a sieve over a basin, pour in the oysters, beard
and throw them again into their liquor, put them into a stew-
pan ; when boiling, add two cloves, half a blade of mace, six
peppercorns, and two ounces of butter, to which you have
added a tablespoonful of flour, breaking it into small pieces,
stir well together, when boiling, season with a little salt, cayenne
pepper, and essence of anchovies, finish with a gill of cream or
milk, and sauce over. The remains of this fish may be taken
from the bone and placed upon a dish, with a little of the above
sauce (to which you have added the yolks of two eggs) over,
sprinkle over with bread-crumbs, and place it twenty minutes
in a hot oven, till the bread-crumbs become brown.

220. Salt Fish.ChoosQ the fish with a black skin, and be

96 FISH.

particular in soaking it well ; to boil, put it into a fish-kettle,
with plenty of cold water, place it over the fire, and the mo-
ment it boils remove it to the corner, to simmer until done,
which, if a piece weighing about three pounds, would be in
about twenty minutes ; do not let it boil fast, or the fish would
eat hard and thready ; dish it upon a napkin, with plain boiled
parsnips and parsley round, and serve egg sauce in a boat.

Haddock, the callarias and galeris of the Romans. This is also the
fish that it is said St. Peter took the tribute money from, and thus gave
the impression of his finger and thumb, where it remains in confirma-
tion of the miracle. It has a very fine flavor when fresh and in season,
which is when the roe is very small ; the time depends on the place
where taken, but generally about October. I think one weighing from
six to seven pounds is the best size, although I have had them at
twelve pounds. The same features as in the cod will tell if they are
fresh.

221. Haddock. This is a fish which I can highly recommend,
both for its firmness and lightness ; it is excellent plain boiled,
and served with a cream sauce or any other fish sauce. But
the better plan is to cut four or five incisions upon each side of
the fish, an inch deep, then put it into a deep dish, and cover
well with salt, let it remain about two hours, then put the fish
in boiling water, to simmer from thirty to forty minutes ; if a
fish of five or six pounds in weight, dish it on a napkin gar-
nished with plain boiled parsnips and parsley, with egg sauce
in a boat.

222. Baked Haddock Fill the interior of the fish with
veal stuffing, sew it up with packthread, and truss it with the
tail in its mouth, rub a piece of butter over the back, or egg
and bread-crumb it over, set it on a baking-dish, which put in
a warmish oven to bake, if a Dublin bay haddock, it would
take from three quarters of an hour to an hour, but a common
haddock would require but half an hour ; the better plan is to
run the point of a knife down to the backbone, from which, if
the flesh parts easily, it is done, when dress it upon a dish
without a napkin, and serve a Beyrout sauce, or any other,
round.

Sturgeon derives its name from the German stoeren, to stir, to rake

FISH. 97

up ; it is from the same word -we derive our word stir. It is the ac-
cipenser of the Romans. This fish has long been in use in England, but,
from its scarcity, it has always been expensive indeed, it has been
considered as a royal fish ; for every one caught in the rivers of Eng-
land belongs to the Queen, with the exception of the river Thames,
which belongs to the Lord Mayor. The flavor of the young sturgeon is
extremely delicate, but that materially depends upon the river in which
it is caught, as it feeds upon the insects and plants, in fact, entirely by
suction ; those caught in rapid rivers and sandy bottoms, and where
they have the advantage of salt and fresh water, are the best.

223. Economical mode of cooking Sturgeon. Take a piece
of sturgeon about two pounds weight, and on sending a piece
of meat to the baker's to be baked on a stand in a dish, put
the sturgeon under it, with a little water, salt, pepper, &c., and
a little chopped eschalot may be used ; you can also put pota-
toes round it. Peas, if in season, are a good accompaniment,
with melted butter.

224. To roast Sturgeon. Take the tail part, skin and bone
it ; fill the part where the bone comes from with some stuffing,
as for a fillet of veal ; put butter and paper round it, and tie it
up like a fillet of veal ; roast, and serve it with melted butter
and gravy.

They may be cooked precisely as veal, in large or small pieces, as
for fricandeau, papillote, tfcc., and even salted, in imitation of tunny.

Mackerel. This is generally recognized as the scomber of the Ro-
mans, by whom it was much esteemed ; at the present day it is not
held in that high estimation that it was some years since : the great
supply which is now received from different parts of the coast at all
seasons of the year may have a tendency to cause this. It is a fish
which requires to be eaten very fresh, and soon becomes tainted. The
soft roe of this fish is highly esteemed, and I have no doubt but that it
was equally so with the Romans, and I believe it was an ingredient of
the garum. When fresh, their skin is of a sea-green color, and very
beautiful ; fine bright golden eyes, and gills very red ; they should be
plump, but not too large ; they should be cleaned by cutting their gills,
so that, when pulled, the interior of the fish will come with them ;
wipe them well, cut off the fins, and trim the tail.

225. Mackerel are generally served plain boiled ; put them
in a kettle containing boiling water, well salted, let simmer
nearly half an hour, take them up, drain, and dish them upon a
napkin ; serve melted butter in a boat, with which you have

98 FISH.

mixed a tablespoonful of chopped fennel, boiling it a few min-
utes.

226. Mackerel a la Maitre d" 1 Hotel. Cut an incision down
the back of a mackerel, close to the bone, season it with a
little pepper, salt, and cayenne, if approved of, butter the skin
well, and place the fish upon a gridiron over a moderate fire,
for about twenty minutes, turning it over when half done ;
when done, have ready two ounces of maitre d'hotel butter,
half of which put in the incision at the back, previously putting
the mackerel upon a hot dish without a napkin, spread the
other half over ; place it in the oven a few minutes, and serve
very hot.

227. Mackerel au Beurre Noir. Split the mackerel open
at the back, making it quite flat, season with a little pepper
and salt, and butter it all over, lay it upon a gridiron over a
moderate fire, turning it when half done, for about a quarter of
an hour, when place it upon a dish without a napkin, then put
six ounces of fresh butter in a stewpan, which place over a
sharp fire until the butter becomes black, but not burnt, when
throw in about fifty leaves of picked parsley, which fry crisp,
and pour over the fish, put three tablespoonfuls of common
vinegar into the stewpan, which boil half a minute, season with
pepper and salt, pour this also over the fish, which put into the
oven five minutes, and serve very hot.

228. To stew Mackerel. Take off the heads, the fins, and
tails, and, having opened the fish and taken out all the hard
roes, dry them with a cloth and dredge them lightly with flour ;
place three or four of them in a stewpan, with a lump of but-
ter, the size of a walnut, to each fish ; put into a small basin a
teacupful of water, a tablespoonful of finely-chopped onions, the
same of chopped parsley, a blade or two of mace, a little pep-
per and salt, a tablespoonful of anchovy essence, and a small
teacupful of ale or porter (if not bitter). Add a tablespoonful
of grated bread-crust, not burnt, but a light brown ; pour all
these ingredients over the fish, and let them stew gently for
twenty minutes ; have ready the yolks of three eggs, well-

FISH. 99

beaten, and when the fish is sufficiently done, take some of the
gravy and mix gradually with the eggs, and, pouring them on
the fish, shake the stewpan a little over the fire to thicken the
whole, but not to curdle the eggs ; the soft roes added are an
improvement : have ready more grated crust, and having
placed the fish whole in the dish, shake a little of the grated
crust over the whole, so as to make it of a handsome brown.
The Receipt requires to be carefully followed. If the gravy is
too thick, more water may be added ; also a glass of sherry, if
liked.

229. Fried Whiting. The whiting is generally skinned,
and the tail turned round and fixed into the mouth ; dip it first
into flour, then egg over and dip it into bread-crumbs, fry as
directed for the sole ; for whiting aux fines herbes, proceed as
directed for sole aux fines herbes. I prefer the whiting fried
with their skins on, merely dipping them in flour.

230. Whiting au Gratin. Put a good spoonful of chopped
onions upon a strong earthen dish, with a glass of wine, season
the whiting with a little pepper and salt, put it in the dish,
sprinkle some chopped parsley and chopped mushrooms over,
and pour over half a pint of anchovy sauce, over which sprinkle
some brown bread-crumbs, grated from the crust of bread, place
it in a warm oven half an hour ; it requires to be nicely brown-
ed ; serve upon the dish you have cooked it in.

231. Red Mullets. Procure two red mullets, which place
upon a strong dish, not too large, sprinkle a little chopped
onions, parsley, a little pepper and salt, and a little salad-oil
over, and put them into a warm oven for half an hour, then
put half a tablespoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan, with
a teaspoonful of salad-oil, stir over a moderate fire until getting
rather yellowish, then add a tablespoonful of sherry, half a pint
of white sauce or melted butter, with a little chopped parsley ;
reduce over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred until becoming
rather thick ; when the mullets are done, sauce over and serve.

232. Red Mullet en papillate. Cut a sheet of foolscap

100 FISH.

paper in the form of a heart, lay it on the table and oil it, put
the mullet on one side, season with salt, pepper, and chopped
eschalot, fold the paper over and plait both edges together, and
broil on a slow fire for half an hour, turning carefully now and
then ; serve without a napkin ; they are excellent done thus,
without sauce, but, if any is required, use melted butter, cream
Hollandaise, anchovy or Italian sauce.

233. Red Mullets saute in Butter. Put two ounces of but-
ter in a pan ; when melted, put in one or two small mullets,
and season with a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, and
the juice of half a lemon ; set it on a slow fire and turn care-
fully ; when done, dish and serve plain, or with any of the
sauces named in the former receipt.

Herrings, when in season, that is, when the roe is just forming, are
most excellent and wholesome fish, when eaten fresh ; I have this day
(the 25th of April) partaken of some, caught in twenty-four fathoms of
water, about twelve miles off the coast of Folkestone, in which you could
just distinguish the formation of the roe. The richness of the nsh at this
period is extraordinary, and renders it worthy the table of the greatest
epicure.

As this fish is now of so great importance as an article of food, I shall
refer more at length to it in my letters on pickling and preserving, and
give you a description of my new plan of curing and smoking, and also
what I consider its medicinal and other properties. Its different modes
of cooking are as follows :

234. Herrings boiled. Boil six herrings about twenty min-
utes in plenty of salt and water, but only just to simmer ; then
have ready the following sauce : put half a gill of cream upon
the fire in a stewpan ; when it boils, add eight spoonfuls of
melted butter, an ounce of fresh butter, a little pepper, salt, and
the juice of half a lemon ; dress the fish upon a dish without ?
napkin, sauce over and serve.

235. Herrings broiled, Sauce Dijon. The delicacy of these
fish prevents their being dressed in any other way than boiled
or broiled ; they certainly can be bread-crumbed and fried, but
scarcely any person would like them ; I prefer them dressed in
the following way : wipe them well with a cloth, and cut three

FISH. 101

incisions slantwise upon each side, dip them in flour and broil
slowly over a moderate fire ; when done, sprinkle a little salt
over, dress them upon a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve
the following sauce in a boat : put eight tablespoonfuls of melted
butter in a stewpan, with two of French mustard, or one of
English, an ounce of fresh butter, and a little pepper and salt ;
when upon the point of boiling, serve.

Smelts. Many have confounded them with the salmon-fry or smelt of
one year old, whereas the smelt has roe and the fry none ; it ascends rivers
to deposit its spawn in November, December, and January, and the rest
of the year they are considered in season, but they vary like the salmon,
according to the river. This fish, when fresh, has a beautiful smell of
violets or cucumbers, but the Germans call it stinck fish, I know not
why ; they lose this perfume in about twelve hours after being taken ;
they should be very stiff and firm, bright eyes, and transparent skin.
This fish is very delicate, and requires very great attention in cleaning,
merely pulling out the gills, the inside will come with them ; they should
be wiped lightly. When split and dried, they are called sparlings.

236. To fry Smelts. Dry them in a cloth, and dip them
in flour ; then have half an ounce of butter of clear fat melted
in a basin, into which break the yolk of two eggs, with which
rub the smelts over with a brush, dip them in bread-crumbs,
fry in very hot lard, dress them on a napkin, garnish with
parsley, and serve with shrimp sauce in a boat.

White Bait. This is a fish which belongs especially to London ; al-
though it is obtainable in other rivers in Great Britain and the Continent,
yet it is not sought for ; great difference of opinion exists amongst natu-
ralists as to what fish this is the young of; in my humble opinion, I
think it is a species distinct of itself, having a life of short duratioa It
is caught only in brackish water, floating up and down the river, accord-
ing to the tide, in every dry summers as high up as Greenwich, and
in very wet as low as Gravesend. They spawn in winter, and make
their appearance, about one inch in length, early in March. They should
be cooked as follows :

237. White Bait. Put them in a cloth, which shake gently
so as to dry them ; then place them in some very fine bread-
crumbs and flour mixed ; toss them lightly with the hands,
take them out immediately and put them in a wire basket, and
fry them in hot lard ; one minute will cook them ; turn them
out on a cloth, sprinkle a little salt over, and serve very hot.

102 FISH.

Should you not have a wire basket, sprinkle them into the pan,
and as soon as they rise take them out.

Turbot we consider the finest of flat-fish ; and so it was, no doubt,
considered by the Romans : hence the proverb, " Nihil ad rhombum,"
although Linnaeus, from his classification, would make us believe it was
the brill or bret, but I do not think so meanly of the epicures of those
days as to imagine it. Its flavor depends greatly upon the place where
taken, resulting from its food, feeding principally upon young crabs and
lobsters ; therefore it is not surprising that lobster sauce accompanies it
when cooked. I prefer them of a middling size, not too large, but thick,
and if bled when caught, so much the better. Should you be at the sea-
side, and buy one rather cheap, because it has red spots on the belly,
remove them by rubbing salt and lemon on the spot. In my opinion
they are better, and more digestible, and of finer flavor, forty-eight hours
after being killed, than when fresh.

238. Turbot. To cook it; cut an incision in the back, rub
it well with a good handful of salt, and then with the juice of
a lemon; set it in a turbot kettle, well covered with cold water,
in which you have put a good handful of salt ; place it over the
fire, and as soon as boiling, put it at the side (where it must not
be allowed to more than simmer very slowly, or the fish would
have a very unsightly appearance). A turbot of ten pounds
weight will take about an hour to cook after it has boiled (but,
to be certain, ascertain whether the flesh will leave the bone
easily) ; take it out of the water, let it remain a minute upon
the drainer, and serve upon a napkin, with a few sprigs of fresh
parsley round, and lobster sauce or shrimp sauce, in a boat.

239. Turbot, the new French fashion. Boil your turbot as
in the last, but dress it upon a dish without a napkin, sauce
over with a thick caper sauce (having made a border of small
new potatoes), sprinkle a few capers over the fish, and serve.

240. Turbot a la Creme is made from the remains of a tur-
bot left from a previous dinner ; pick all the flesh from the
bones, which warm in salt and water, and have ready the fol-
lowing sauce : put one ounce of flour into a stewpan, to which
add by degrees a quart of milk, mixing it very smoothly ; then

FISH. 103

add two peeled eschalots, a bouquet of parsley, a bay-leaf and
a sprig of thyme tied together, a little grated nutmeg, a tea-
spoonful of salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper ; place it over the
fire, stirring until it forms rather a thickish sauce, then take it
from the fire, stir in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and
pass it through a tammy ; lay a little of it upon the bottom of
a convenient sized dish, then a layer of the fish, season lightly
with a little white pepper and salt, then another layer of sauce,
proceeding thus until the fish is all use^d, finishing with sauce ;
sprinkle a few bread-crumbs over, and put it into a warm oven
half an hour ; brown with the salamander, and serve upon the
dish it is baked on. Any remains of boiled fish may be dressed
the same way.

241. Soles fried. Have about four pounds of lard or clean
fat in a small fish-kettle, which place over a moderate fire, then
cut off the fins of the sole, and dip it into flour, shake part of
the flour off, have an egg well beaten upon a plate, with which
brush the fish all over, and cover it with bread-crumbs ; ascer-
tain if the lard is hot, by throwing in a few bread-crumbs, it
will hiss if sufficiently hot, put in the fish, which will require
nearly ten minutes cooking, and ought to be perfectly crisp,
drain it on a cloth, dish upon a napkin, garnish with parsley,
and serve shrimp sauce in a boat.

The above quantity of lard or fat, if carefully used and not
burnt, would do for several occasions, by straining it off each
time after using. All kinds of fish, such as eels, smelts, whi-
tings, flounders, perch, gudgeons, &c., are fried precisely in the
same manner.

242. Soles, saute in Oil. Trim the fish well, dip it into a
couple of eggs, well beaten, put six tablespoonfuls of salad-oil
in a saute-pan, place it over the fire, and when quite hot put in
your sole, let it remain five minutes, turn over, and saute upon
the other side, ten or twelve minutes will cook it, according to
the size ; serve upon a napkin without sauce ; they are excel-
lent cold.

243. Sole a la Meuniere. Cut the fins off a sole, and make

104 FISH.

four incisions across it upon each side with a knife, then rub
half a tablespoonful of salt and chopped onions well into it,
dip in flour, and broil it over a slow fire ; also have ready two
ounces of fresh butter, mixed with the juice of a lemon, and a
little cayenne, which rub over the sole, previously laid in a hot
dish, without a napkin, turn the fish over once or twice, put it
in the oven a minute, and serve very hot.

244. Soles aux fines kerbes. Put a spoonful of chopped
eschalots into a saute-pan, with a glass of sherry and an ounce
of butter, place the sole over, pour nearly half a pint of melted
butter over it, or four spoonfuls of brown gravy or water, upon
which sprinkle some chopped parsley, place it in a moderate
oven for half an hour, take the sole out of the pan, dress upon
a dish without a napkin, reduce the sauce that is in the pan
over a sharp fire, add a little Harvey sauce and essence of an-
chovy, pour over the sole, and serve.

Soles may also be plain boiled, using the same precautions as
directed for turbot, and serve without a napkin, and a cream
sauce poured over ; or it may be served upon a napkin gar-
nished with parsley, and a little shrimp sauce, ro plain melted
butter, in a boat.

245. Flounders, Water Souchet. Procure four or six
Thames flounders, trim and cut in halves ; put half a pint of
water in a saute-pan, with a little scraped horseradish, a little
pepper, salt, sugar, and forty sprigs of fresh parsley ; place over
the fire, boil a minute, then add the flounders, stew ten min-
utes, take them out and place in a dish without a napkin, re-
duce the liquor they were stewed in a little, pour over and serve.

To fry flounders, trim them, and proceed precisely as di-
rected for fried soles : three minutes is sufficient.

Skate, also called Maid, Ray, is not appreciated equal to what it
ought to be ; we generally have only the fin part, which is cut off and
put into fresh water, where it curls up. It is a very invigorating fish,
and I think deserves the attention of the medical profession. It is best
cooked as follows :

246. Skate. Procure two or three slices, tie them with
string to keep the shape in boiling, put them into a kettle of

FISH. 105

boiling water, in which you have put a good handful of salt ;
boil gently about twenty minutes (have ready also a piece of
the liver, which boil with them) ; when done, drain well, and
put them upon a dish without a napkin ; put three parts of a
pint of melted butter in a stewpan, place it upon the fire, and
when quite hot add a wineglassful of capers, sauce over, and serve.

247. Skate au Beurre Noir. Boil a piece of skate as
directed in the last ; when done, drain it well, put it upon a
dish without a napkin, and proceed exactly as directed for
mackerel au beurre noir.

Skate may also be served upon a napkin, with a boat of
well-seasoned melted butter, to which you have added a spoon-
ful of Harvey sauce and one of anchovy.

Pike. This fish spawns in March and April, according to the season.
When in perfection, their colors are very bright, being green, spotted
with bright yellow, and the gills are a bright red ; when out of season,
the green changes to gray, and the yellow spots assume a pale hue.
It may be called the shark of fresh water. Those caught in a river or
running stream are far superior to those caught in ponds, which often
get too fat, and taste muddy. A middling-sized one, weighing about
five pounds, would be best ; when fresh, the eyes must be very trans-
parent, the scales bluish, and not dry upon the back, or it would not
clean well. The dressing is generally the making of the fish, as regards
the approbation bestowed upon it. To clean them, have a sharp-
pointed knife, put the point carefully under the scales (without piercing
the skin) at the tail of the fish, pass the knife gently up the back to
the head, dividing the scales from the skin carefully ; you may then
take off the whole of the scales in one piece (should this process appear
too difficult, they may be scraped off in the ordinary way, it will not
look so white, but would eat equally as good) ; then make two incisions
in the belly, a small one close to the bladder, and a larger one above ;
pull out the gills one at a time with a strong cloth, and if the interior does
not come with them, take it out from the incisions, and wash the fish
well ; the cutting off the fins is quite a matter of taste : it is usually
done.

248. Pike. Clean as directed above, stuff the interior as
directed for haddocks, only adding some fillets of anchovies
and chopped lemon-peel with it; curl round and put in a
baking-dish, spread a little butter all over, put in a moderate
oven, when about half done egg over with a paste-brush, and

106 FISH.

sprinkle bread-crumbs upon it ; a middling-sized pike will take
about an hour, but that according to the size and the heat of
the oven ; when done, dress upon a dish without a napkin, and
sauce round as directed for baked haddock above referred to.

249. Pike, Sauce Matelote. Cook a pike exactly as in the
last, dress it upon a dish without a napkin, and sauce with a
matelote sauce over, made as directed for salmon sauce mate-
lote.

This fish may also be served with caper sauce, as directed for
the skate ; the smaller ones are the best ; the remains of a pike
placed in the oven the next day, with a cover over it and a lit-
tle more sauce added, is very nice.

250. Baked Carp. Procure a good-sized carp, stuff it, then
put it into a baking-dish, with two onions, one carrot, one tur-
nip, one head of celery, and a good bouquet of parsley, thyme,
and bay-leaf; moisten with two glasses of port wine, half a pint
of water, salt, pepper, and oil, and put it into a moderate oven
about two hours to bake ; try if done with a knife, which is
the case if the flesh leaves the bone easily, dress upon a dish
without a napkin, then have ready the following sauce : mince
a large Spanish onion with two common ones, and put them
into a stewpan with three spoonfuls of salad-oil, saute rather a
yellow color, add two glasses of port wine and one spoonful of
flour, mix all well together, add a pint of broth (reserved from
some soup) or water, with half an ounce of glaze, or half a gill
of brown gravy, or a few drops of coloring, boil it up, drain the
stock the carp was cooked in from the vegetables, which also
add to the sauce ; boil well at the corner of the stove, skim,
and when rather thick add a teaspoonful of Harvey sauce, one
of essence of anchovies, twelve pickled mushrooms, and a little
cayenne pepper, pour all the liquor drained from the fish out of
your dish, sauce over, and serve.

251. Carp, Sauce Matelote. Put your carp in a small oval
fish-kettle, with wine and vegetables as in the last, to which add
also a pint of water and a little salt, with a few cloves and pep-
percorns ; put the lid upon the fish-kettle, and stand it over a

FISH. 107

moderate fire to stew about an hour, according to the size ;
when done, drain well, dress upon a dish without a napkin, and
sauce over with a matelote sauce, made as directed for salmon
sauce matelote, or caper sauce, as for skate ; small carp are very
good-flavored, bread-crumbed and fried.

Trout. There are several kinds, none of which, it seems, were known
to the Romans. This is the salmon of fresh water, and bears a very
close resemblance to it in flavor. They grow to a very large size ; I
partook of part of one weighing twenty -six pounds, which was caught
in the Lake of Killamey, in July, 1848. They have different names in
various parts of Great Britain, but there is the common trout, the white
trout, and the sea trout ; the white trout never grows very large, but
the sea trout does, and is of a very fine flavor.

River Trout, when fresh, have the most beautiful skin imaginable, the
golden and sometimes silvery tint of which makes me term it the sister
fish of the red (sea) mullet ; should the gills be pink instead of red, and
the skin dry (which is frequently the case on the second day), they may
still be eatable, but their succulence goes with their beauty. Clean
them as directed for salmoa

252. Trout a la Twickenham. When you have cleaned
your trout, put them into a kettle of boiling water, to which
you have added a good handful of salt, and a wineglassful of
vinegar ; boil gently about twenty minutes, or according to
their size, dress upon a napkin, and serve melted butter, into
which you have put a tablespoonful of chopped gherkins, two
sprigs of chopped parsley, salt and pepper, in a boat.

The remains of trout, salmon, or mackerel are excellent
pickled : put three onions in slices in a stewpan, with two
ounces of butter, one turnip, a bouquet of parsley, thyme, and
bay-leaf, pass them five minutes over the fire, add a pint of
water and a pint of vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of salt and one
of pepper, boil until the onions are tender, then strain it through
a sieve over the fish ; it will keep some time if required, and
then do to pickle more fish by boiling over again.

253. Trout a la Burton. Boil the trout as in the last;
then put half a pint of melted butter in a stewpan, with two
tablespoonfuls of cream, place it upon the fire, and when upon
the point of boiling add a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with
a tablespoonful of cream (dress the fish upon a <sh without a

108 FISH.

napkin), put two ounces of fresh butter, a pinch of salt, and the
juice of a lemon into the sauce ; shake round over the fire, but
do not let it boil ; sauce over the fish, sprinkle some chopped
parsley, and serve.

Perch were known to the Romans, and those they received from
Britain were considered the best. They do not grow to a very large
size, four pounds being considered a large one. When fresh, are red-
dish at the eyes and gills. These fish, having a great objection to part
with their scales, must be scraped almost alive, forming the fish into
the shape of the letter S, and scraping with an oyster-knife ; open the
belly, take out the interior, pull away the gills, and wash weh 1 . When
large, they are frequently boiled with the scales on, and they are taken
off afterwards, which is much easier.

254. Perch sauted in Butter. Clean the fish as explained
above, dry well, make an incision upon each side with a knife,
put a quarter of a pound of butter in a saute-pan over a slow
fire, lay in the fish, season with salt, and saute gently, turning
them over when half done ; when done, dress upon a napkin,
and serve melted butter in a boat, or shrimp sauce. Small
ones should be dressed thus.

255. Perch, Hampton Court fashion. Cook the fish as
above, and have ready the following sauce : put six spoonfuls
of melted butter in a stewpan, with a little salt and the juice of
a lemon ; when upon the point of boiling, stir in the yolk of an
egg mixed with a tablespoonful of cream ; do not let it boil ;
blanch about twenty small sprigs of parsley in boiling water
ten minutes, and some small pieces of rind of lemon for one min-
ute, drain, and put them in the sauce, which pour over the fish,
and serve.

Perch may also be served plain boiled or stewed as directed
for tench, with sauce served separate.

256. Steioed Tench. Put two onions, a carrot, and turnip,
cut in slices, into a stewpan, or very small fish-kettle, with a
good bouquet of parsley, a few sprigs of thyme, one bay-leaf,
six cloves, a blade of mace, a little salt and pepper, and two
glasses of sherry ; lay your tench over (it will require four for a
dish, and they may be either cooked whole or each one cut into

FISH. 109

two or three pieces), add a pint of water, cover down close, and
stew rather gently over a slow fire for about half an hour ; take
them out, drain upon a cloth, dress upon a dish without a nap-
kin, and pour a sauce over made as directed for sauce matelote,
cream sauce, or Beyrout.

25*7. Tench with Anchovy Butter. Cook the tench as in
the last, but they may be plain boiled in salt and water ; dress
upon a dish without a napkin, then put six spoonfuls of melted
butter in a stewpan, with one of milk ; place it upon the fire,
and, when upon the point of boiling, add an ounce of anchovy
butter ; shake it round over the fire until the butter is melted,
when sauce over and serve.

The Eel is greatly esteemed in all countries, but it differs in taste ac-
cording to the river from whence it is taken ; although we have some
very fine eels in the river Thames, yet our principal supply is received
from Holland, and the fish which come from thence are much improved
in flavor by the voyage, and even increase in size. They arrive in the
river Thames in vessels called eel scootes (schuyts), of which four have
been allowed, for centuries, to moor opposite the Custom House, and
the others are obliged to remain in Erith Hole until there is room for
them, wliich greatly improves the fish : the value of those imported into
Lond,on last year amounted to 132,600/. Nothing is more difficult to
kill than eels ; and it is only by knocking their heads upon a block or
hard substance, and stunning them, that they suffer least. Take the
head in your hand with a cloth, and just cut through the skin round the
neck, which turn down about an inch ; then pull the head with one hand,
and the skin with the other, it will come off with facility ; open the belly,
take out the interior without breaking the gall, and cut off the bristles
which run up the back They are in season all the year round.

258. Eels, fried. Cut your eels into pieces three inches
long, dip the pieces into flour, egg over with a paste brush, and
throw them into some bread-crumbs ; fry in hot lard as directed
for fried soles.

259. Stewed Eels, Sauce Matelote. Procure as large eels as
possible, which cut into pieces three inches long, and put them
into a stewpan, with an onion, a bouquet of two bay-leaves, a
sprig of thyme and parsley, six cloves, a blade of mace, a glass

110 FISH.

of sherry, and two of water ; place the stewpan over a moderate
fire, and let simmer about twenty minutes, or according to the
size of the eels ; when done, drain upon a cloth, dress them in
pyramid upon a dish without a napkin, with a matelote sauce
over, made as directed for salmon sauce matelote, but using the
stock your eels have been cooked in to make the sauce, having
previously well boiled it to extract all the fat.

260. Eels a la Tartare. Fry as directed above, and serve
on some Tartare sauce ; or partly stew first, and, when cold,
egg, bread-crumb, and broil gently.

261. Spitchcocked Eels, in some parts of England, are cooked
with the skins on. They should be properly cleaned, and split
down the back, and bone taken out, and cut into pieces of about
four inches long ; egg the inside and throw over some bread-
crumbs, in which have been mixed some chopped parsley, a
little dried thyme, and some cayenne ; place them in a Dutch
oven before the fire, and whilst cooking, baste them with butter
in which some essence of anchovies has been mixed. The time
they take cooking depends on the size, but may be known by
the skin turning up.

262. Conger Eel is little appreciated in this country, although
amongst the working class of our neighbors, more particularly
the French, it is an article of great consumption. If alive, its
head should be cut off, and it should bleed as much as possible ;
but if dead, the pieces should be put into lukewarm water to
disgorge previous to being cooked. The young fry are exceed-
ingly good, and may be dressed like fresh-water eels. The large
ones may be made into soup ; and can also be cooked like
sturgeon.

263. French Angler's way of Stewing Fish. Take about
four pounds or less of all kinds of fish, that is, carp, pike, trout,
tench, eels, <fec., or any one of them, cut them into nice middle-
sized pieces, no matter the size of the fish let the pieces be of
equal size; put them in a black pot or stewpan, season over

FISH SAUCES. Ill

with nearly a tablespoonful of salt, half one of pepper, half one
of -sugar, four good-sized onions, sliced thin, add a half bottle of
common French wine, or four glasses of port or sherry, half a
pint of water, set it on the fire to stew, gently tossing it now and
then ; when tender, which you may easily ascertain by feeling
with your finger the different pieces, mix a spoonful of flour
with two ounces of butter, which put bit by bit in the pan, move
it round by shaking the pan, not with any spoon ; boil a few
minutes longer, and serve, dishing the fish in pyramid, sauce
over ; if the sauce is too thin, reduce it till it adheres to the
back of the spoon ; taste, if it is highly seasoned, a few sprigs
of thyme or bay-leaf may be added. Some of the fish may be
done sooner than the others ; if so, take them out first, and keep
warm until all are done. The motive of mixing fish is, that it
is supposed the flavor of all together is finer than one alone.
Conger eel is also done in this way.

FISH SAUCES.

IN all ages and countries at all removed from barbarism, where fish
has formed an article of diet, sauces of various kinds have been an ac-
companiment. With the Romans, in the time of Lucullus, great care
was observed in their preparation ; amongst others which they used, and
the most celebrated, was the Garum and the Muria.

The Garum was the sauce the most esteemed and the most expen-
sive ; its composition is unknown. This is a subject well worth the at-
tention of the epicures of the present day ; they should subscribe and offer
a premium for that which, in their opinion, may resemble it : it is a sub-
ject well worthy the attention of the Professors of our Universities.
Perhaps some leaf yet undiscovered, that may have escaped the confla-
gration of Alexandria, might throw some light upon so interesting a sub-
ject. It appears, that mushrooms entered greatly into its composition ;
and that parts of mackerel, or of that species, formed another. The
question is, at what time of the year were mushrooms in season there ;
and if at that period mackerel, or what species of mackerel have soft
roes, as I think it probable that they entered into its composition, as an
island near Carthaginia, where they were caught, was called Scombraria,
and that which was prepared by a company in that town, and which
was considered the best, was called Garum Sociorum.

The Muria was the liquid in which the tunny was pickled, and no
doubt very similar to our essence of anchovies. Those most generally

112 FISH SAUCES.

in use at the present day are the following, in addition to which there
are various kinds made and sold in bottles, some of which are much
cheaper to buy than to make.

264. Melted Butter. Put into a stewpan two ounces of but-
ter, not too hard, also a good tablespoonful of flour, mix both
well with a wooden spoon, without putting it on the fire ; when
forming a smooth paste, add to it a little better than half a pint
of water ; season with a teaspoonful of salt, not too full, the sixth
part that of pepper ; set it on the fire, stir round continually
until on the point of boiling ; take it off, add a teaspoonful oif
brown vinegar, then add one ounce more of fresh butter, which
stir in your sauce till melted, then use where required ; a little
nutmeg grated may be introduced ; it ought, when done, to
adhere lightly to the back of the spoon, but transparent, not
pasty ; it may also, if required, be passed through a tammy or
sieve. If wanted plainer, the last butter may be omitted.

265. Anchovy Sauce. Make the same quantity of melted
butter as in the last, but omit the salt, and add three good table-
spoonfuls of essence of anchovies.

266. Fennel Sauce. This is a sauce principally used for
boiled mackerel. Make the same quantity of melted butter as
in the last, to which add a good tablespoonful of chopped fen-
nel ; it is usually served in a boat.

267. Egg Sauce is generally served with salt-fish or haddock.
Boil six eggs ten minutes, let them get cold, then cut them in
pieces about the size of dice, put them into a stewpan, with
three parts of a pint of melted butter, add an ounce more fresh
butter, with a little pepper and salt ; keep the stewpan moving
round over the fire until the whole is very hot, and serve in a
boat.

268. Shrimp Sauce. Make the same quantity of melted
butter as before, to which add three tablespoonfuls of essence
of shrimps, but omitting the salt ; add half a pint of picked

FISH SAUCES. 113

shrimps, and serve in a boat. If no essence of shrimps, some
anchovy sauce may be served with shrimps in it as a substitute.

269. Shrimp Sauce is also very good as follows : Pound
half a pint of shrimps, skins and all, in a mortar, and boil them
ten minutes in half a pint of water ; pass the liquor through a
hair sieve into a stewpan, and add a piece of butter the size of
two walnuts, with which you have mixed a good teaspoonful of
flour, stir it round over the fire until upon the point of boiling ;
if too thick, add a little more water ; season with a little cay-
enne, and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies ; serve very hot ;
a few picked shrimps might also be served in it.

270. Caper Sauce. Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted
butter into a stewpan, place it on the fire, and when on the
point of boiling, add two ounces of fresh butter and one table-
spoonful of capers ; shake the stewpan round over the fire until
the butter is melted, add a little pepper and salt, and serve
where directed.

271. Lobster Sauce. Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted ^[
butter in a stewpan, cut up a small-sized lobster into dice, make

a quarter of ar pound of lobster butter with the spawn, as di-
rected ; when the melted butter is upon the point of boiling,
add the lobster butter, stir the sauce round over the fire until
the butter is melted, season with a little essence of anchovies,<r<
the juice of half a lemon, and a quarter of a saltspoonful of
cayenne pepper ; pass it through a tammy into another stew-
pan, and add the flesh of the lobster ; when hot, it is ready to
serve where required. This sauce must be quite red ; if no red
spawn in the lobster, use live spawn.

272. New and Economical Lobster Sauce. Should you
require to use the solid flesh of a lobster for salad, or any other
purpose, pound the soft part and shell together (in a mortar)
very fine, which put into a stewpan, covered with a pint of
boiling water ; place it over the fire to simmer for ten minutes,
then pass the liquor through a hair sieve into a basin ; put

114 FISH SAUCES.

three ounces of butter into a stewpan, into which rub (cold) a
good tablespoonful of flour, add the liquor from the lobster,
place it upon the fire, stirring until upon the point of boiling,
season with a little cayenne, and add a piece of anchovy but-
ter, the size of a walnut ; or, if any red spawn in the lobster,
mix it with butter, as in the last, and add it, with the juice of
half a lemon, just before serving. An anchovy pounded with
the lobster-shells would be an improvement, and part of the
flesh of the lobster might be served in the sauce.

273. Lobster Sauce a la Creme. Cut a small lobster into
slices the size of half-crown pieces, which put into a stewpan ;
pound the soft and white parts, with an ounce of butter, and
rub it through a sieve ; pour ten spoonfuls of melted butter,
and two of cream, over the slices in the stewpan, add half a
blade of mace, a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper,
and a little cayenne ; warm gently, and when upon the point
of boiling, add the butter and two tablespoonfuls of thick
cream, shake round over the fire until quite hot, when it is
ready to serve.

274. Lobster Sauce simplified. Put the slices of lobster, as
in the last, into a stewpan, with ten tablespoonfuls of milk, add
a little pepper, salt, cayenne, two cloves, and half a blade of
mace ; set it upon the fire, and when boiling, add a piece of
butter of the size of two walnuts, with which you have mixed
a little flour; shake round over the fire, and when getting
rather thick, add two spoonfuls of cream, if handy, and serve
very hot.

275. Beyrout Sauce. Put a tablespoonful of chopped
onions into a stewpan, with one of Chili vinegar and one of
common ditto, a pint of melted butter, four spoonfuls of brown
gravy, two of mushroom catsup, and two of Harvey sauce ;
place it over the fire, keeping it stirred until boiling, then place
it at the corner to simmer five minutes, skim well, then place
it again over the fire, keeping it stirred until thickish, to adhere
to the back of the spoon, when add two tablespoonfuls of es-
sence of anchovies, and half a teaspoonful of sugar ; it is then
ready to serve.

FISH SAUCES. 115

The above, although a fish sauce, may be used for meat or
poultry, by omitting the anchovy, and adding more Harvey
sauce. If no brown gravy, add water and a little coloring.

276. Oyster Sauce. Mix three ounces of butter in a stew-
pan, with two ounces of flour, then blanch and beard three
dozen oysters, put the oysters into another stewpan, add beards
and liquor to the flour and butter, with a pint and a half of
milk, a teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of cayenne, two
cloves, half a blade of mace, and six peppercorns ; place it over
the fire, keep stirring, and boil it ten minutes, then add a table-
spoonful of essence of anchovies, and one of Harvey sauce,
pass it through a tammy over the oysters, make the whole very
hot without boiling, and serve. A less quantity may be made,
using less proportions.

277. Another method. Put a pint of white sauce into a
stewpan, with the liquor and beards of three dozen oysters (as
above), six peppercorns, two cloves, and half a blade of mace ;
boil it ten minutes, then add a spoonful of essence of ancho-
vies, a little cayenne and salt if required ; pass it through a
tammy, or hair sieve, over the oysters, as in the last.

278. A plainer method. Blanch three dozen of oysters,
which again put into the stewpan, with their liquor (after hav-
ing detached the beards), add six peppercorns and half a blade
of mace ; place them over the fire, and when beginning to sim-
mer, add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, with which you
have mixed sufficient flour to form a paste, breaking it in four
or five pieces ; shake the stewpan round over the fire, and when
upon the point of boiling, and becoming thick, add half a gill
of milk, or more if required ; season with a little cayenne, salt,
pepper, and a few drops of essence of anchovies ; serve very
hot.

279. Mussel Sauce. Proceed exactly the same as for oyster
sauce, using only the liquor of the mussels (not the beards)
instead of the oysters, and serving the mussels in the sauce ;
about four dozen would be sufficient.

116 FISH SAUCES.

280. Cream Sauce. Put two yolks of eggs in the bottom
of a stewpan, with the juice of a lemon, a quarter of a tea-
spoonful of salt, a little white pepper, and a quarter of a pound
of hard fresh butter ; place the stewpan over a moderate fire,
and commence stirring with a wooden spoon (taking it from
the fire now and then when getting too hot), until the butter
has gradually melted and thickened with the eggs (great care
must be exercised, for if it should become too hot, the eggs
would curdle and render the sauce useless) ; then add half a
pint of melted butter ; stir altogether over the fire, without
permitting it to boil, pass it through a tammy into another
stewpan ; when wanted, stir it over the fire until hot. This
sauce may be served with any description of boiled fish.

281. Matelote Sauce. For about a pound-slice of salmon
make the following quantity of sauce : peel thirty button on-
ions, and put half a teaspoonful of sugar in a quart-size stew-
pan, place it over a sharp fire, and when melted and getting
brown, add a piece of butter (the size of two walnuts) and the
onions, toss them over now and then until rather brown, then
add a glass of sherry, let it boil, then add half a pint of
brown sauce, and a gill of broth, simmer at the corner of the
fire until the onions are quite tender, skim it well, and add a
few mushrooms, if handy, season with a little salt and sugar,
and sauce over any kind of fish where described. The addi-
tion of a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies is an improve-
ment. Use where directed.

282. Matelote Sauce simplified. Proceed as above respect-
ing the onions, only add a fourth more butter, and fry them a
little browner ; then add a glass of sherry and two teaspoonfuls
of flour, which stir round gently with a small wooden spoon,
add to it about a pint of water, stir now and then till boiling,
add three saltspoonfuls of salt, two of sugar, one of pepper, and
a bouquet garni, simmer and skim, add a few drops of coloring
to give it a nice brown color ; when ready to serve, add a good
tablespoonful of anchovy essence ; it ought to adhere lightly to
the back of the spoon, but not be too thick ; sauce over or un-
der, as directed ; small pieces of glaze, if handy, put into it is
an improvement, also using broth instead of water ; oysters and

REMOVES. 117

mushrooms may be introduced, also a little cayenne pepper.
This sauce must be very savory.

283. Lobster Butter. Procure half a lobster, quite full of
spawn, which take out and pound well in a mortar ; then add
six ounces of fresh butter, mix well together, then rub it through
a hair sieve, and put it in a cold place until wanted. The flesh
can be used for any other dish.

284. Anchovy Butter. Take the bones from six anchovies,
wash the fillets, and dry them upon a cloth, pound them well
in a mortar, add six ounces of fresh butter, mix well together,
and proceed as in the last.

285. Maltre d? Hotel Butter. Put a quarter of a pound of
fresh butter upon a plate, with one good tablespoonful of chop-
ped parsley, the juice of two lemons, half a teaspoonful of salt,
and a quarter that quantity of white pepper ; mix all well to-
gether, and put in a cool place till required.

286. Ravigote Butter. Proceed as in the last, but instead
of parsley, use one spoonful of chopped tarragon, and one of
chervil, and add half a spoonful of Chili vinegar.

REMOVES.

THESE are dishes which remove the fish and soup, served upon large
dishes, and placed at the top and bottom of the table ; great care should
be evinced in cooking them, as they are the " piece de resistance" of the
dinner. I must also observe that a few of the receipts appear a little
complicated, but which will not prove to be the case if tried once or
twice. In the Entrees will be found how the remains of them may be

Since the science of analytical chemistry has become so perfect, and
has shown us the elements of which every substance and liquid is com-
posed, and that, in order to continue them in a state of action, and pre-
vent decomposition, it is necessary to repair the loss which they are
every moment undergoing, even from man, through every living

118 REMOVES.

thing, down to earth and water. But as I am not going to write you
a lecture on chemistry, which will be so much more easy to read in
Liebig, in order for you to choose your meat and viands with economy
in regard to actual nourishment, it is necessary I should tell you, that,
from infancy to old age, the human race must be continually imbibing
elements of formation or reparation, even from the lime in the mother's
milk, which forms the bones, to the osmazome extracted from animal
matters, which creates a more lively circulation of the blood when it
becomes sluggish and duU in old age. Each period, occupation, and
station in life requires different substances of reparation, with which we
ought to make ourselves intimately acquainted. Amongst the first, and
that most generally in use with man, is the ox, the principal nourish-
ment of which consists in the osmazome, which is that liquid part of
the meat that is extracted by water at blood-heat. It is this which is
the foundation and flavor of all soups, which gives the flavor to all
meats, and which, on becoming candied by heat, forms the crust of
roast meats.

The osmazome is found principally in all adult animals having a dark
flesh, and to a very small extent in those having a white flesh ; or even
in the white flesh of fowls, but in their back and legs, in which parts
lies their principal flavor. The bones of the ox contain gelatine and
phosphate of lime. The gelatine is also found in the muscles and other
cartilaginous parts of the animal ; it is extracted by boiling water, and
coagulates at the ordinary temperature of the atmosphere ; it is the
foundation of all jellies, blancmanges, and other similar preparations.

The albumen is also found in the flesh, and congeals as soon as the
heat rises beyond that of the blood ; it is this which is the scum on the
pot when the meat is boiling.

BEEF. All oxen should fast from twenty-four to forty-eight hours
before being killed ; when killed and skinned, they are opened and the
inside cleaned ; they are then hung up, and ought to be exposed to a
draught until cold, and then divided down the back into two parts,
leaving the head whole ; these sides are then divided into two, called
the fore and hind-quarters : the fore-quarter contains the shin, the clod
and stickings, leg of mutton piece, chuck, middle rib, fore rib ; the
hind- quarter consists of the rump, sirloin, thin and thick flank, the
veiny-piece, aitch-bone, buttock or round, and leg and foot ; the head
contains the tongue, palate, and brains ; the entrails consist of the
sweetbread, kidneys, skirts, and the double roll and reed tripe. When
the meat is cut up, the following kernels are taken out : those in the
neck, where the shoulder clod is removed ; two from the round, the
pope's eye, and one from the flap; one in the thick flap in the
middle of the flank, and another between the rump and aitch-bone :
these must be removed to preserve the beef, particularly in hot weather.
The flavor and quality of the meat depend on the country from whence
it comes, and the nature of its food.* As a general rule, the flesh ought
to be of a dark red color, smooth, open-grained, with fat rather white
than yellow running in thin streaks through the flesh. Ox-beef is the

* See future Letters.

REMOVES. 119

largest and richest, but heifer is better, if well fed. It should be hung
for two days previous to using, in a cool place, free from draught ; it
will keep good from three to six days, according to the weather.

287. Sirloin of Beef should never be less than three of the
short ribs, and will weigh more or less according to the size of
the ox from which they are taken ; that from a small, well-fed
heifer I consider the best, and will weigh about twelve pounds,
and take about two hours to roast, depending much on the fire.
Having spitted or hung the joint, cover it with buttered paper,
and place it about eighteen inches from the fire ; about one
hour after it has been down, remove the paper and place the
joint nearer the fire, and put half a pint of water, with a little
salt, in the dripping-pan ; about a quarter of an hour before
removing from the fire, dredge it with flour and salt from the
dredging-box ; when taken from the fire, empty the contents
of the dripping-pan into a basin, from which remove the fat ;
pour the gravy in the dish, and then place the joint on it ;
serve some scraped horse-radish separate. A Yorkshire pud-
ding is very excellent when cooked under this joint.

288. Ribs of Beef. This piece should consist of at least
three ribs ; the bones are generally sawn through about three
inches from the top ; these should be removed, leaving the flap,
which fold under and fix with wooden skewers. This, in roast-
ing, should be prepared and dredged as the sirloin. A drop of
coloring gives the gravy an inviting appearance.

289. Ribs of Beef braised. Take four ribs, not too fat nor
too thick, remove the chine-bone neatly, and four inches of the
tips of the rib-bones, run with a larding-needle several pieces
of fat bacon through the thick part, trim over the flap and tie
it well round, put it into the braising-pan ; put a quarter of a
pound of butter, one teaspoonful of pepper, and six teaspoon-
mis of salt into the pan, cover it over, and place it on a slow
fire for thirty minutes, stirring it now and then, then add two
quarts of water ; at the expiration of one hour and a half, add
eighty small button onions and sixty small young carrots, or
pieces of large ones cut in the shape, which place around the
meat ; a bouquet of ten sprigs of parsley, three bay-leaves, and

120 REMOVES.

four sprigs of thyme tied together ; half an hour after, add
sixty round pieces of turnip ; then place some live coals on the
lid, and let it stew gently for one hour and a half longer, being
altogether about four hours. Take out the meat, remove the
string, and trim it. Skim off the fat from the liquor in the
pan, remove the bouquet, &c., add a few pieces of butter in
which have been mixed a tablespoonful of flour and a tea-
spoonful of sugar, two of browning, stir gently with a wooden
spoon, and, when just on the boil, dress round the meat, and
serve. In case it has reduced too much, add water.

The foregoing receipt may appear rather complicated, and may per-
haps frighten you, and prevent you trying it ; but I assure you, if you
once try it, you will find it so good as to repeat it, particularly as many
other receipts will be referred to this one. The vegetables and meat
cold, are excellent.

^ 290. Stewed Rump of Beef. This is a very excellent and useful
joint to be continually kept in a country-house, where you may be some
distance from a butcher's, as, when hung up in a cool larder, it keeps good
for a considerable time, and you never feel at a loss should some friends
call unawares : after a third of it has been removed for steaks, pies, or
puddings, the remainder makes an excellent joint, roasted or braised like
the ribs, or stewed as follows :

Cut it away from the bone, cut about twenty long pieces of fat
bacon, which run through the flesh in a slanting direction ;
then chop up the bone, place it at the bottom of a large stew-
pan, with six cloves, three onions, one carrot, a turnip, and a
head of celery ; then lay in the rump (previously tying it up
with string), which just cover with water, add a tablespoonful of
salt and two burnt onions (if handy), place upon the fire, and,
when boiling, stand it at the corner ; let it simmer nearly four
hours, keeping it skimmed ; when done, pass part of the stock
it was cooked in (keeping the beef hot in the remainder)
through a hair sieve into a basin ; in another stew r pan have
ready a quarter of a pound of butter, melt it over the fire, add
six ounces of flour, mix well together, stirring over the fire
until becoming a little brownish ; take off, and when nearly
cold add two quarts of the stock, stir it over the fire until it
boils ; then have four carrots, four turnips (cut into small pieces
with cutters), and forty button onions peeled, put them into the
sauce, when again boiling draw it to the corner, where let sim-
mer until tender, keeping it skimmed ; add a little powdered

REMOVES. 121

sugar and a bunch of parsley : if it should become too thick,
add a little more of the stock ; dress the beef upon a dish,
sauce round and serve. Brown sauce may be used, and the
gravy will make excellent soup.

291. Salt Round of Beef. This magnificent joint is, in
general, too large for small families, but occasionally it may be
used ; the following is, therefore, the best method of cooking
it : having folded the fat round it, and fastened it with skewers,
tie round it, not too tight, some wide tape and a thin cloth,
place it in a large stock-pot with plenty of cold water, set it
upon a good fire, and when beginning to boil, draw it to the cor-
ner, where let it simmer until done ; five hours will be enough
for a large one of thirty to thirty-five pounds ; when done,
remove the cloth and tape, and dish it up, previously cutting a
slice two inches thick from the top, pouring a pint of the hot
liquor over it when serving. To serve it cold, M. Soyer, hi his
" Regenerator," thus describes it :

" After receiving the above useful lesson, and being desirous of im-
proving my profession in all its branches, I remembered that, amongst
the number of joints boiled to serve cold for large civic, agricultural, or
benevolent anniversary dinners, the round of beef was the most prom-
inent, and having seen it standing in dishes to get cold, with the dish
filled with the gravy that runs from it, particularly if a little over-done,
caused me to hit upon the following expedient to prevent the meat
losing so much of its succulence.

" Fill two large tubs with cold water, into which throw a few
pounds of rough ice, and when the round is done, throw it,
cloth and all, into one of the tubs of ice-water ; let remain one
minute, when take out and put it into the other tub ; fill the
first tub again with water, and continue the above process for
about twenty minutes; then set it upon a dish, leaving the
cloth on until the next day, or until quite cold ; when opened,
the fat will be as white as possible, besides having saved the
whole of the gravy. If no ice, spring water will answer the
same purpose, but will require to be more frequently changed ;
the same mode would be equally successful with the aitch-
bone."

292. Half -Round of Beef (Silver-side) should be put into

122 REMOVES.

cold water, and let it come to a boil ; simmer for two hours
and a half, and serve the same as a round.

293. Aitch-bone of Beef (or, as I think it ought to be called,
Edge-bone). This is a very nice joint for a small family, but
not so economical as is generally supposed ; it should be pickled
carefully, and cooked in the same way as the round; one
weighing ten pounds will take two hours and a half; it should
be trimmed on the top, and served with some of the liquor
under it. It is very good when fresh and braised like the
ribs.

294. Salt Brisket of Beef. This is by no means an economical
joint, as it loses considerably in cooking ; it requires a long time
to boil ; should it be required as a large cold joint, the following
is the best plan : procure a nice brisket with as little fat as
possible, detach the whole of the bones from it, make a pickle
(see Receipt), place it in it, previously rubbing it well with two
cloves of garlic, leave it in the pickle from seven to nine days,
rubbing and turning it every day ; when ready to cook, cut it
into two parts (one about two inches longer than the other), tie
them together, and afterwards in a clean cloth, simmer it for
about six or seven hours in a large stock-pot full of water ;
when done, take it out and let it drain, have ready a large dish-
cover, place it upon a trivet, remove the cloth and string from
the meat, and place it in the cover ; have ready a piece of
board to fit inside the cover, place it on the meat with a half-
hundred weight on the top, and let it remain in a cold place
until the next day, when take it out, trim it, garnish it nicely,
and serve. This will keep good a considerable time, and is ex-
cellent for breakfast or luncheon; besides, it always keeps a
" piece de resistance" in the larder in case of accidents. It is
also, when fresh, very excellent stewed like the rump of beef,
or plain salted.

295. Hamburgh Beef. The ribs are the best; they should
be put to soak in soft water for twelve hours, and then put
into cold water and boiled gradually ; a piece of three ribs will
take three hours; if intended to be served hot, the outside

REMOVES. 123

should be cut off, and the joint nicely trimmed and served up
with the following garniture round it : take four handfuls of
brown kale, well washed, put a saucepan on the fire, with a
gallon of water, and let it well boil ; then add two tablespoonfuls
of salt and half a saltspoonful of carbonate of soda, put the
kale in, let it boil for ten minutes, drain it and squeeze all the
water from it, put it on a chopping-board and chop it fine, then
put it into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, half a tea-
spoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, a little nutmeg,
half a teaspoonful of sugar, and twenty roasted chestnuts cut in
half, put it on the fire and keep stirring it for five minutes : if
too dry, add a little milk or gravy, and place it on the side of
the fire until wanted.

296. To boil a pickled Ox Tongue. Put the tongue into a
large stewpan containing two gallons of cold water, which set
upon the fire until boiling, when draw it to the corner to sim-
mer for three hours, if a tongue weighing about six pounds ; but
the better way to ascertain when done, is to try it with a truss-
ing-needle, or the prongs of a fork, in the thickest part ; if tender
it is done, but if hard it must boil rather longer. A dried tongue
should be soaked twenty-four hours previously to boiling ; when
done, skin it and trim the root, &c., and use where directed.

297. To cook a fresh Ox Tongue. Put a tongue in luke-
warm water for twelve hours to disgorge, then trim the root
and scrape the tongue quite clean ; have ready twenty pieces of
fat bacon two inches long and half an inch square, which intro-
duce with a larding pin into the most fleshy part in a slanting
direction ; then rub the tongue all over with salt, and run a long
iron skewer through it, which tie upon, surround the tongue
with vegetables, the same as directed for turkeys roasted and
braised, and roast for two hours before a good fire ; twenty
minutes before it is done take away the paper and vegetables,
to give a nice brown color ; when done trim a little, to keep it
steady in the dish, and garnish with any kind of stewed vege-
tables, or cut it in halves lengthwise to form a heart, and sauce
over with piquante, tomatos, or any other sharp sauces found
in their series. If no convenience for roasting, put into a stew-
pan a piece of leg of beef (cut small) weighing two pounds, with

124 REMOVES.

two onions, one carrot, two blades of mace, a little thyme and
bav-leaf, and a quarter of a pound of butter, saute the whole
twenty minutes, keeping it stirred over a moderate fire, then
put in the tongue (previously prepared) and two ounces of salt,
cover with water, and let boil gently four hours, skim and serve.
The stock would be excellent for soup or brown sauce of any
kind. The remains could be served in either of the methods
directed for the remainder of pickled tongue.

298. Rump Steak broiled. Procure a steak cut nice and
even, of about half an inch in thickness (if well cut it will not
require beating), which lay upon a gridiron over a sharp fire ;
have a good teaspoonful of salt, and half that quantity of pep-
per mixed together upon a plate, half of which sprinkle upon
the side of the steak uppermost, after it has been upon the fire
a couple of minutes, when turn, and sprinkle the remainder of
the seasoning upon the other side ; it will take about ten min-
utes to cook it to perfection, turning it occasionally, and serve
upon a very hot dish, with a little scraped horseradish round.
If properly done, it ought to be full of gravy, but a great deal
depends upon the fire, which, if bad, causes the gravy to ooze
from the meat and lie upon the top, which you lose in turn-
ing the steak over. A rump steak may also be served broiled
as above, with a little maitre d'h6tel, or anchovy butter, rubbed,
over as soon as done, and potatoes cut the size of half crown or
shilling pieces, and fried crisp in hot fat ; dress round. Or a
steak may be served, with a few water-cresses, well washed, and
dried upon a plate sprinkled with a little pepper, salt, and vine-
gar, and garnished round ; a little oil might also be added.

VEAL of about two to three months old is the best ; the flesh ought
to be white, approaching to pink, and the fat firm ; it is cut up the same
as mutton, except that, in the hind-quarter, the loin is cut straight, leav-
ing the aitch-bone on it, which may be either dressed on the loin or
separate. The fore-quarter consists of the shoulder, neck, and breast.
The hind-quarter, the knuckle, leg, fillet, and the loin. The head and
pluck consists of the heart, liver, nut, skirts, melt, and the heart, throat,
and sweetbread.

The bull-calf is the best, the flesh is firmer grained or redder, and the
fat more curdled than the cow-calf, which latter is in general preferred,
being more delicate and better adapted for made dishes, as having the

REMOVES. 125

udder. Nothing can be worse than veal if not fresh ; it should never
hang more than two days in summer and four in winter. To be in full
perfection, the kidneys ought to be covered with fat, and the veins in
the shoulder bright red or blue. It is best from May to September,
although it may be had good all the year. The head, when fresh, should
have the eyes plump and lively ; if stale, they are sunk and wrinkled.

299. Fillet of Veal. Choose it of the best quality. Procure
a leg, saw off the knuckle, take out the bone in the centre of
the Met, and fill up the cavity with some stuffing made as
directed (see Receipt), fold the udder and flap round, which fix
with three skewers ; place half a sheet of buttered foolscap paper
top and bottom, which tie over and over with plenty of string,
run a spit through, fixing the fillet with a holdfast ; set down
to roast, placing it rather close to the fire ten minutes, rub well
over with butter, then place it at least two feet and a half from
the fire, to roast very slowly, giving it a fine gold color ; a fillet
weighing sixteen pounds would require three hours roasting,
when done take it up, detach all the string and paper, trim the
top and set it upon your dish ; have a pint of melted butter in
a stewpan upon the fire, to which, when boiling, add four spoon-
fuls of Harvey sauce, and two of mushroom catsup, mix well,
and pour round the fillet ; have also boiled nicely an ox-tongue,
which skin and trim, dress upon a dish surrounded with greens
or cabbage nicely boiled, and serve as an accompaniment to the
fillet.

300. Loin of Veal. One with plenty of fat and a good
kidney, from which the chump and the rib-bone at the other
end has been removed ; fasten the flap over the kidney with a
skewer, run a spit through lengthwise, commencing at the thick
end, and fixing it with a holdfast, cover it with buttered paper ;
one of fourteen pounds will take about two hours and a half to
roast. Serve with melted butter poured over.

301. Chump of Veal can be either roasted or boiled; one
about four pounds will take one hour to roast, and one hour and
a quarter to boil ; roasted, serve like the loin : boiled, serve with
either sauces, Nos. 122, 154, 160.

126 REMOVES.

302. Breast of Veal plain roasted. Paper the joint, and
roast for about one hour, and serve with gravy and melted
butter ; it may be roasted with the sweetbread skewered to it.
By taking the tendons off, stew them for entrees.

303. Shoulder of Veal. One weighing fourteen pounds will
take about two hours and a half to three hours to roast or braise ;
if roasted, the same sauce as for the loin (No. 300), and braise
(No. 310).

304. Neck of Veal. Procure about eight pounds of a nice
white neck of veal, containing six or seven chops ; saw off un-
der part of the chine-bone, so as to give it a nice square ap-
pearance, lard it thus : take about twelve pieces of fat bacon,
two inches long and a quarter of an inch square, put the lard-
ing-needle through the flesh of the veal about one inch and a
half, then put one third of the length of the piece of bacon in
it, pull the needle out, and it will leave the bacon in the meat,
showing a quarter of an inch of the bacon outside. Then
braise as ribs of beef. Two hours will suffice.

305. Neck of Veal with Peas. Proceed as in the former
receipt, with the exception of leaving out the vegetables, and
adding, half an hour previous to the meat being done, one quart
of peas, twelve button onions, and a little more sugar ; remove
the fat, and serve as before.

306. Neck of Veal with Haricots. Proceed as before, sub-
stituting the haricots for the peas, which must have been boil-
ed in plenty of water for three or four hours previously. (See
Receipt for Haricots.)

307. Neck of Veal with New Potatoes. As before, using
new potatoes in place of the peas. Any other vegetable, as
French beans, broad beans, &c may be served with it in the
same way.

308. Necks of Veal can be larded or plain roasted, or braised

REMOVES. 12*7

in plain gravy as before, and served with either sauces, Nos.
150,135, 137, 165.

309. Knuckle of Veal is a very favorite dish of mine : I pro-
cure two of them, which I saw into three pieces each, and put
into a stewpan, with a piece of streaked bacon two pounds in
weight, four onions, a carrot, two turnips, and six peppercorns,
place over the fire, and when boiling add a little salt, skim
well, and place at the corner to skimmer gently for two hours,
take up, dress them in your dish surrounded with the vegeta-
bles and bacon, and serve with parsley and butter over ; very
good soup may be made from the stock it was boiled in if re-
quired, or if not, into glaze, which put by until wanted.

310. Loin of Veal braised. This joint generally weighs
from twelve to fourteen pounds when off a good calf; have the
rib-bones carefully divided with a saw so as not to hurt the
fillet, prepare the braising-pan, and proceed as in receipt
(No. 289); with the addition of one pint more water, but take
care not to cover the meat, which might happen if your stew-
pan was small, which otherwise be boiling instead of braising ;
it will take about three hours : be careful about the fat, as this
joint produces a great deal ; taste the sauce before serving, in
case more seasoning is required, which might be the case, de-
pending on the nature of the veal. A good cook should taste
all sauces before serving.

311. Breast of Veal stuffed and stewed. Take about eight
pounds of the breast of veal, put your knife about half an inch
under the skin, and open it about three parts of its width all the
way down, then prepare some veal stuffing, and lay it in the
opening you have made about one inch in thickness, sew it up,
and proceed as receipt for shoulder.

Should half the size of either the above dishes be required,
use but half the vegetables in proportion, and stew half an
hour less.

The Chump, Small Shoulder, or pieces of the fillet may be
dressed in the same way, but must be larded, like the neck.

All the above joints may be stewed in the same way, with

128 REMOVES.

less vegetables, and served with sauces (Nos. 131, 135) ; the
gravy in which they are stewed will always be useful in the
kitchen, or may be reduced and served with the joint.

312. Shoulder of Veal stuffed and stewed. This is a very
awkward joint to carve to advantage, and equally so to cook ; by
the following plan, it goes further than any otheiv way.

Take the joint and lay it with the skin-side downwards,
with a sharp thin knife carefully detach the meat from the
blade-bone, then hold the shoulder edgewise and detach the
meat from the other side of the bone, being careful not to make
a hole in the skin ; then cut the bone from the knuckle and
take it out ; you may at first be rather awkward about it, but
after once or twice trying, it will become easy ; you may also
take out the other bone, but I prefer it in, as it keeps the shape
better : then lard the lean part like the neck in (No. 304) ; mix
some salt and a little mixed spice together, with which rub the
meat from whence the bone has been cut, stuff with veal stuf-
fing, or sausage-meat, or suet pudding ; braise, garnish, and
serve as (No. 289). This being the toughest part of the veal,
it should be tried before taking up, to see if it is properly done,
by thrusting a larding-needle in it ; if it goes in easily it is
done. This joint is excellent cold, and should be carved in thin
slices crosswise.

313. Calf's Head. Choose one thick and fat, but not too
large; soak for ten minutes in lukewarm water, then well
pow.der with rosin, have plenty of scalding water ready, dip in
the head, holding it by the ear, scrape the hair off with the
back of a knife, which will come off easily if properly scraped,
without scratching the cheek ; when perfectly clean, take the
eyes out, saw it in two lengthwise through the skull, without
spoiling the brain, which take carefully out, and put to dis-
gorge for a few hours in lukewarm water ; pull the tongue
out, break the jawbone, and remove the part which contains
the teeth, put the head into plenty of water to disgorge for one
hour ; make the following stock, and boil for about two hours
and a half, and it will be ready to serve.

The stock is made by putting into a braising-pan two carrots,

REMOVES. 129

three onions, a quarter of a pound of butter, six cloves, a bou-
quet of parsley, thyme, and bay -leaves, set it on the fire for
about twenty minutes, keep stirring it round, then add a pint
of water, and when warm mix a quarter of a pound of flour,
add a gallon of water, one lemon in slices, and a quarter of a
pound of salt, then lay the head in ; take care it is well cover-
ed, or the part exposed will turn dark : simmer gently till
tender.

LETTER No. XII.

MY DEAR ELOISE, Do not make any mistakes in the way you de-
scribe the above receipts, which might be made very ridiculous if
wrongly explained. For example : I once had an old French Cookery
Book in my hand, which had the 15th edition stamped on its old
brown leather cheek, in which a receipt of " Tcte de Veau a la pou-
lette," that is, a calf's head, with white sauce, in which small onions
and mushrooms are introduced, reads as follows but, before describ-
ing it, allow me five minutes to indulge in a hearty laugh at the ab-
surd manner in which it is explained: it reads thus: "First choose
your head as thick and fat as you can, then plunge it in two gal-
lons of water, wliich must be nearly boiling in a pan on the fire ;
let your head remain about ten minutes, then take it out by the ears,
and, after remaining a short time, scrape your hair off with the back
of a knife without injuring your cheek, and pull your eyes out ;
break your jawbone and saw your head in two without smashing
your brains, which take out carefully ; set it in cold water, to get
clean and white ; then pull out your tongue, scrape and dry it, hav-
ing previously boiled it with your head, wliich, after two hours'
ebullition, will feel as soft as possible, when see that your head is
in the centre of the dish ; your tongue divided in two and placed
on each side of it : sharp sauce, according to No. is allowed to be
served with either head or tongue." I assure you, dear, although I
do not profess to be a first-rate scholar in that fashionable language
French, that I believe this to be as near as possible the true trans-
lation of the original. Then follows calves' feet, which is nearly as
absurd as the former : " Pied de Veau au naturel," Calves Feet, the
natural way. "Choose your fine feet in the rough state, and, as
with your head, place a pan of water on the fire ; when hot, but
not too much so, put your feet in the water for about ten minutes,
try if you can easily clean them as your head with a knife, if not,
add a spoonful of salt in the water, and let them remain a few min-
utes longer; then scrape like your head; when well cleaned wipe
them dry, and they are ready for dressing, which may be done in
almost twenty different ways. (See the series 'How to cook Pigs'
Feet.') When your feet are tender, set them on a dish, take out the
big bone, surround them with sausage-meat; wrap them up in caul,

130 REMOVES.

and form a heart with them ; then place your feet on a gridiron, let
them gently broil, and, when done, eat them for breakfast or luncheon."
(After which a gentle walk might give you an appetite for dinner.)

Calfs Head (No. 313) may be dressed thus : Half of the
head will make a good dish for a remove ; lay it in the dish
very hot, having previously drained it well ; have ready about
a pint of Hollandaise or cream sauce, No. 280, pour it over
and serve.

It may be surrounded with a dozen new potatoes, if in
season, or some quenelles, or quarters of hard-boiled eggs ; a
little chopped parsley thrown on the head when the sauce is
over it, makes it look very inviting. It can also be served
" a la poulette," by putting a pint of white sauce in a stew-
pan ; you have peeled and cooked about fifty button onions in
white broth, to which you have added a little sugar and butter,
and a few mushrooms ; add the broth, onions, and sauce to-
gether, and when on the point of boiling, add a liaison of two
yolks of eggs and the juice of a lemon ; stir it well round ; it
ought to be the thickness of cream sauce ; pour over the head
and serve.

It can also be egged and bread-crumbed, and placed in the
cream for twenty minutes to get a nice brown color, and may
be served with sauces, Nos. 150, 165.

MUTTON". The sheep, when killed, is generally divided into two,
by cutting across about two ribs below the shoulder ; these are called
the fore and hind-quarters : the former contains the head, neck, breast,
and shoulder ; the latter, the leg and loin ; or the two loins together,
the saddle or chine ; or the leg and four ribs of the loin, the haunch.
The entrails are called the pluck, which are the liver, lights, heart,
sweetbread, and melt. When cut up, the kernel at the tail should
be removed, and that in the fat in the thick part of the leg, and
the pipe that runs along the bone of the chine. The flavor depends
on the breed and pasture ; that is best which has a dark-colored fle^h,
of a fine grain, well-mixed with fat, which must be firm and white.
Wether mutton is the best; the meat of ewe mutton is of a paler
color, and the fat yellow and spongy. To keep a loin, saddle, or
haunch, the kidney-fat should be removed, and the place rubbed with
a little salt. Mutton should never be cooked unless it has hung forty-
eight hours after it is killed ; and it can be kept for twenty-one days,
and sometimes longer in a severe winter.

314. Haunch of Mutton. Saw or break three inches from
the knuckle-bone, remove all skin from the loin, put it on a

REMOVES. 131

spit, commencing at the knuckle, and bringing it out at the
flap, avoiding the fillet of the loin ; then cover it with three
sheets of buttered paper, place it about eighteen inches from
the fire, if a large one it will take two hours and a half; half
an hour before being done, remove the paper, baste it with a
little butter, and dredge it slightly ; when done, dish it up with
u frill round the knuckle, and pour a pint of hot gravy over.
In summer time, French beans should be served with it, but
always mashed potatoes.

315. Saddle of Mutton. The same rule in regard to choice
appiles to this as to the haunch. Take off the skin, run a lark-
spit through the spinal marrow-bone, which affix to a larger
one with a holdfast at one end and string at the other ; then
tie the skin over the back, and place it down to roast ; it will
not take so long a time to roast in proportion as another joint,
one about ten pounds will take about one hour and twenty
minutes ; remove the paper ten minutes before taking it from
the fire, dredge to give it a nice color, and make gravy as for
beef, No. 287, or serve with gravy, No. 17Y.

316. Saddle of Mutton, a la Polonaise. This is my economi-
cal dish, par excellence, and very much it is liked every time I
use it. Take the remains of a saddle of mutton, of the previ-
ous day, cut out all the meat close to the bone, leaving about
one inch wide on the outside, cut it with a portion of the fat
into small dice ; then put a spoonful of chopped onions in a
stewpan, with a little butter ; fry one minute, add the meat,
with a tablespoonful of flour, season rather high with salt,
pepper, and a little grated nutmeg; stir round, and moisten
with a gill or a little more of broth, add a bay-leaf, put it
on the stove for ten minutes, add two yolks of eggs, stir till
rather thick, make about two pounds of mashed potatoes
firm enough to roll, put the saddle-bone in the middle of
the dish, and with the potatoes form an edging round the
saddle, so as to give the shape of one, leaving the middle
empty, fill it with your mince meat, which ought to be enough
to do so; if you should not have enough with the remains
of the saddle, the remains of any other joint of mutton may
be used; egg all over, sprinkle bread-crumbs around, put in

132 REMOVES.

rather a hot oven, to get a nice yellow color, poach six eggs,
and place on the top, and serve brown gravy round ; white
or brown sauce, if handy, is an improvement. You may
easily fancy the economy of this well-looking and good dish ;
the remains of a leg, shoulder, loin, neck of mutton and
lamb may be dressed the same way, keeping their shape of
course.

31*7. Roast Leg of Mutton. Choose the same as the
haunch. One about eight pounds weight will take about
one hour and a half to roast : run the spit in at the knuckle,
and bring it out at the thigh-bone; roast it some little dis-
tance from the fire at first, bringing it nearer as it gets done ;
baste it with a little butter whilst roasting, or cover it with a
sheet of well-buttered paper, which remove just before it is
quite cooked. The leg of doe mutton is the best for roast-,
ing ; should it be ewe, and intended for roasting, I proceed
thus two or three days before I want it. I make a small
incision close to the knuckle, pushing a wooden skewer close
down to the leg-bone as far as it will go ; I then take one
tablespoonful of port wine, if none handy I use catsup, and
a teaspoonful of either treacle, apple or currant jelly, and
mix them together; I then remove the skewer, and run the
mixture in it, closing the hole with two cloves of garlic.
This joint I prefer to dangle, rather than put on the spit.

318. Boiled Leg of Mutton. This I prefer of the South-
down breed, and ewe is equally as good as doe. Cut the
end of the knuckle from the leg, put it into an oval pan,
in which there is sufficient water to cover it, throw in about
one ounce of salt, place it upon a sharp fire until it is on the
point of boiling, then remove to the side, and in five min-
utes remove the scum, and then let it simmer gently ; if the
turnips are to be boiled with it, peel and slice them, and put
them into the pan half an hour before the mutton is done ;
it must be again put on the fire for a few minutes, as the
turnips have stopped the boiling ; dress it upon a dish with
the turnips round it, or mash separate, and with caper or
gherkin sauce : the broth may be reduced for soup.

REMOVES. 133

319. Leg of Mutton d la Bretonne. Choose one about six
pounds weight, peel four cloves of garlic, make an incision with
the point of a knife in four different parts around the knuckle,
and place the garlic in it, hang it up for a day or two, and then
roast it for one hour and a half. At the same time you have
procured a quart of small dry French haricots, which after well
washing put into a saucepan with half a gallon of water, add
about half an ounce of salt, the same of butter, set them on the
side of the fire to simmer for about three hours or till tender,
when pour the liquor off into a basin, and keep the haricots
hot ; peel and cut two large onions into thin slices, put some
of the fe,t of the dripping-pan into a frying-pan, put in the
onions, and fiy a light brown, add them to the haricots with
the fat and gravy the mutton has produced in roasting, season
with salt and pepper, toss them a little, and serve very hot on
a large dish, put the leg on it, with a frill of paper on the
knuckle. In case the leg is very fat do not add all of it to the
haricots. This if well carved is an excellent dish for eight or
nine persons ; it is a dish very much esteemed in France, and
is considered cheap food from the nourishment afforded by the
haricots, which can be purchased at sixpence per quart.

Shoulder and loin may be dressed in the same way.

320. Shoulder of Mutton is best if well hung; the spit
should be run in at the flap and brought out at the knuckle ;
this should not be basted in roasting, but merely rubbed with
a little butter; it is served occasionally with sauces, No. 158.
This is sometimes boiled with onion sauce ; or, as it is called,
smothered in onions. It is also good by having the bone ex-
tracted, and its place filled with veal stuffing, and then put it
on a trivet, in a baking-dish, with sliced potatoes under, and
baked more or less in proportion to its size ; one of six pounds
will take one hour and a half or as follows :

Put a small shoulder of mutton in a deep saute-pan or bak-
ing-dish, season with a little pepper and salt, cover over with
thin slices of fat bacon, then put in ten potatoes peeled and
quartered, and the same quantity of apples, with half a pint of
water, place in a moderate oven and bake for two hours, dress
upon your dish, with the potatoes an$ apples round, skim all
the fat from the gravy, which pour over and serve ; it requires
a little oil or butter over before baking.

134 REMOVES.

321. Shoulder of Mu tton, Provincial Fashion. Roast a fine
shoulder of mutton ; whilst roasting mince ten large onions very-
fine, put them into a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of salad-
oil, pass them ten minutes over a good fire, keeping it stirred,
then add a tablespoonful of flour, stir well in, and a pint of milk,
season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar ; when the onions
are quite tender and the sauce rather thick, stir in the yolks of
two eggs and take it off the fire ; when the shoulder is done,
spread the onions over the top, egg over, cover with bread-
crumbs, put in the oven ten minutes, and salamander a light
brown color, dress upon your dish, put the gravy from it in
your stewpan, with a pat of butter, with which you have mixed
a little flour, boil up, add a little scraped garlic, pour round the
shoulder, which serve. The shoulder may also be dressed in
the housewife's method, as directed for the leg. A little brown-
ing may be added.

322. Loin of Mutton. Take off the skin, separate the joints
with a chopper ; if a large size, cut the chine-bone with a saw,
so as to allow it to be carved in smaller pieces, run a lark-spit
from one extremity to the other, and affix it to a larger spit,
and roast it like the haunch. A loin weighing six pounds will
take one hour to roast.

323. Leg of Mutton stewed with Vegetables. Have a good
leg, beat it a little with a rolling-pin, make an incision in the
knuckle, in which put two cloves of garlic, then put it into a
stewpan, with a pound of lean bacon cut in eight pieces, set
over a moderate fire half an hour, moving it now and then
until becoming a light brown color, season with pepper and
salt, add twenty pieces of carrots of the same size as the bacon,
fifteen middling-sized onions, and when done add two bay-
leaves, two cloves, and two quarts of water, replace it upon a
moderate fire, moving round occasionally, stew nearly three
hours, dress upon your dish with the carrots and onions dressed
tastefully around, take off as much of the fat from the gravy as
possible, take out the bay-leaves and pour the garniture round
the mutton, which serve very hot. It can be braised like No.
289. A few drops of browning may be required.

324. Neck of Mutton. This is a very recherche dish, if off

REMOVES. 135

a good-sized sheep, and well hung ; it must be nicely trimmed,
sawing the bones at the tips of the ribs, which detach from the
meat, folding the flap over ; saw off the chine-bone, and carefully
detach the remainder of the bone from the fillet ; detach the
skin from the upper part, fix the flap under with a couple of
skewers, run a flat lark-spit from end to end, fix it to a larger
one, cover it with buttered paper, and roast like the haunch ; if
of five pounds, nearly three-quarters of an hour to one hour.
It should be served very hot, the plates and dish the same, and
not one minute before it is wanted : serve gravy under.

325. Boiled Neck of Mutton. Take one with little fat upon
it, divide the chops, taking care not to cut the fillet, put it into
a pan with cold water sufficient to cover it, place in it one ounce
of salt, one onion, and a small bunch of parsley, boil it gently ;
when done, dish it up, and serve it with either parsley and but-
ter made from the liquor in which it was boiled, caper or onion
sauce, mashed turnips separate. Proceed as under receipt with
the broth.

326. Sheep's Head. Though this may be seen in every part
of London inhabited by the working classes, and may be pro-
cured ready-cooked, I prefer always to prepare it at home, and
very good it is. I choose a fine one, as fat as possible, and put
it into a gallon of water to disgorge for two hours ; wash it well,
saw it in two from the top, take out the brain, cut away part
of the uncovered part of the skull, and also the ends of the jaws,
wash it well, put it into the stewpan, with two onions, one carrot,
two turnips cut in slices, a little celery, four cloves, a bouquet
of four sprigs of thyme, a bay-leaf, one ounce of salt, a quarter
of an ounce of pepper, three quarts of water, set on the fire ;
when near boiling, add half a teacupful of pearl or Scotch barley ;
let it simmer for three hours, or till tender, which try with a
fork ; take out vegetables, cut in dice, remove bouquet, skim
off the fat, and pour all into tureen. Or, lay the head on a
dish, and serve with either onion sauce over, parsley and butter,
or any sharp sauce ; or egg and bread-crumb it over, put it in
an oven for half an hour till getting a nice yellow color, and
serve with sharp sauce under. Or, with the brain, thus : having
boiled it for ten minutes in a little vinegar, salt, and water, cut

136 REMOVES.

it in pieces, warm it in parsley and butter, season it a little, and
put it under the head and serve.

327. Sheep's Head and Liver. Boil half a sheep's liver for
thirty minutes in a quart of water, cut it into small dice, put
two ounces of butter in the stewpan, and set it on the fire, then
add a tablespoonful of chopped onions, cook it a few minutes,
add the liver, season with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, a spoon-
ful of flour, half-pint of broth, stir when boiling, simmer for a
few minutes, lay on dish, and put the head over just as it is
out of the broth, or bread-crumb it, and put it in the oven.

LAMB. The same rules for cutting up should be observed as in the
sheep. The fore-quarter consists of a shoulder, neck, and breast to-
gether ; if cut up, the shoulder and ribs. The hind-quarter is the leg and
loin. The head and pluck consist of the liver, lights, heart, nut and
melt, as also the fry, which is the sweetbread, bits and skirts, and part
of the liver. The fore-quarter should be fresh, the hind-quarter should
hang, it should be of a pale color and fat. The vein in the fore-quar-
ter ought to be bluish and firm ; if yellow or green, it is very stale.
To ascertain if the hind-quarter is fresh, pass your finger under the
kidney, and if there is a faint smell it is not fresh. If there is but little
flesh on the shoulder it is not fine lamb ; those that have short wool I
have found to be the best flavored. Nothing differs so much in flavor
and goodness as this : much depends upon the kind of pasture on which
the ewe is fed ; that which is obtained when it is the dearest has but
little flavor, and requires the addition of lemon and cayenne to make
it palatable.

328. Neck of Lamb a la Jardiniere. Plain roast the neck,
as you would that of mutton ; dish it up with sauce, and,
whilst it is roasting, cut one middling-sized carrot in small
dice, the same quantity of turnip, and thirty button onions ;
wash all in cold water, put them in a small stewpan, with one
ounce of butter and half a teaspoonful of sugar, place on the
fire till no liquid remains in the stewpan ; add to it a gill of
brown sauce, half a one of broth, add a small bouquet of pars-
ley and bay-leaf; after once boiling, set it to simmer on the
corner of the stove, skim off all the fat ; when ready, taste if
very palatable ; it must be a nice brown color, and the sauce
lightly adhere to the back of the spoon ; serve on the dish,

REMOVES. 13 Y

place the neck over : white Sauce may be used instead of brown,
only add a spoonful of liaison when ready to serve. This sauce
is equally good with almost any kind of meat, game, and
poultry : it will often be referred to, therefore be particular in
making it ; you can shape the vegetables in twenty different
ways, by using either green peas, French beans, Brussels sprouts ;
sprey-grass may be added, when in season, but should be
boiled separately, and added just previous to serving. Should
you have no sauce-water cold, a little glaze may be used ; or,
fof white sauce, use water and milk.

329. Saddle of Lamb, Russian fashion. Roast a small
saddle of lamb, keeping it pale ; having had it covered with
paper, take ten good-sized boiled potatoes, mash them with
about two ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto
of pepper, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and a little grated
nutmeg ; mix all well together with a fork, adding half a gill
of milk and one egg ; when cold, roll them into a long shape
the size of plover's eggs, egg and bread-crumb twice, and fry
light colored ; dress the saddle, surround it with the potatoes,
make a sauce of melted butter and maitre d'hdtel butter, No.
285, put in it, and pour it round, and serve. All joints of lamb
can be dressed thus.

330. Leg or Shoulder of Lamb with Peas. These must
be plain roasted ; when done, serve with peas in the bottom of
the dish, prepared as No. 169.

331. Leg or Shoulder with French Beans. Plain roast
as before ; prepare beans as directed. (See Vegetables.)

332. Boiled Leg of Lamb with Spinach. Procure a very
small leg, and cut the end of the knuckle-bone, tie it up in a
cloth and place it in cold water, with two ounces of salt in it,
boil it gently according to size ; when done, remove the cloth,
and dish it up with spinach under it, prepared as directed.
(See Vegetables.)

333. Shoulder of Lamb braised. Take the blade bone

138 REMOVES.

from a shoulder of lamb, and have ready ten long strips of fat
bacon, which season rather highly, with pepper, salt, and a tea-
spoonful of chopped parsley, place the pieces, one after the
other, in your larding pin, which draw quickly through the
fleshy part of the shoulder, leaving the bacon in the meat ;
after having used all the bacon, roll the meat round, and tie it
up with a piece of string ; then put it into a stewpan contain-
ing a quarter of a pound of butter over a slow fire, stirring it
occasionally until of a light golden color, when pour in a qua,rt
of water or broth, and add forty button onions, and a bunch of
parsley; let simmer very slowly until the onions are quite
tender, when take up the meat, pull off the string, and dress it
upon a dish with the onions round ; take the parsley out of
the liquor, from which carefully skim off all the fat, and reduce
it until forming a thinnish glaze, when pour it over the meat
and serve. Mushrooms may be added ten minutes before send-
ing to table.

334. Breast of Lamb broiled. Saw off the breast from a
rib of lamb, leaving the neck of sufficient size to roast or for
cutlets ; then put two onions, half a carrot, and the same of
turnip, cut into thin slices, in a stewpan with two bay-leaves, a
few sprigs of parsley and thyme, half an ounce of salt, and three
pints of water, lay in the breast, which let simmer until tender,
and the bones leave with facility, when take it from the stew-
pan, pull out all the bones, and press it between two dishes ;
when cold, season with a little salt and pepper, egg and bread-
crumb it lightly over, and broil gently (over a moderate fire) of
a nice yellowish color, turning it very carefully ; when sufficiently
browned upon one side, serve with plain gravy in the dish and
mint sauce separately, or with stewed peas or any other vege-
table sauce ; tomato sauce is likewise very good served with it.

335. Lamb's Head. See Sheep's Head (No. 324). This
will take half the time to cook.

336. Lamb's Fry. Take about a pound and boil for ten
minutes in half a gallon of water, take it out and dry on a cloth ;
have some fresh crumbs, mix with them half a spoonful of

REMOVES. 139

chopped parsley, salt, pepper ; egg the fry lightly with a paste-
brush, dip it in the crumbs, fry for five minutes, serve very hot
on a clean napkin in a dish, with fried parsley over.

337. Lamb's Head with Hollandaise. If you want it very
white, make stock as for sheep's feet, put it to stew when done,
lay on dish with about twelve new potatoes (boiled) round it,
pour over some cream sauce (No. 280), and serve.

338. LamUs Head, with Brain or Liver. Blanch the
brain or liver, and mince them as for sheep's head, introducing
only the yolk of an egg ; mix with a little milk, stir in quick,
add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the juice of half a
lemon, lay it on the dish with the head over, and serve.

PORK. The flesh of no other animal depends so much upon feeding
as that of pork. The greatest care ought to be observed in feeding
it, at least twenty-one days previous to its being killed ; it should fast
for twenty-four hours before. No animal is more used for nourishment,
and none more indispensable in the kitchen ; employed either fresh or
salt, all is useful, even to its bristles and its blood; it is the super-
fluous riches of the farmer, and helps to pay the rent of the cotta-
ger. It is cut up the same as the ox The fore-quarter is the fore-
loin and spring; if it is a large pig, the sparerib may be cut off.
The hind-quarter is the leg and loin. There is also the head and
haslet (which Is the liver, kidney, craw, and skirts), and also chitter-
lings, which are cleansed for sausages and black puddings. For boil-
ing or roasting it should never be older than six months, and the leg
must not weigh more than from six to seven pounds. The short-
legged, tliick-necked, and small-headed pigs are the best breed, a cross
from the Chinese. If fresh and young, the flesh and fat should be
white and firm, smooth and dry, and the lean break if pinched between
the fingers, or you can nip the skin with the nails; the contrary if
old and stale.

339. Leg of Pork. Choose the pork as described at the
commencement of this series, if a leg, one weighing about
seven pounds ; cut an incision in the knuckle near the thigh,
into which put a quantity of sage and onions, previously
passed in butter, sew ihe incision up with pack-thread, score
the rind of the pork in lines across, half an inch apart, place
upon a spit, running it in just under the rind, and bringing

140 REMOVES.

it out at the knuckle. If stuffed the day previous to roast-
ing, it would improve its flavor; roast (if weighing seven
pounds) about two hours and a half, and serve with apple
sauce in a boat.

34(7. Chine of Park. Score it well, stuff it thick with
pork stuffing, roast it gently, and serve with apple sauce.

341. Sparerib of Pork. When spitted, rub some flour
over the rind, roast it before a clear fire, not too strong, or
cover it with paper; about ten minutes before taking it up,
throw some powdered sage over it, and froth it up with some
butter in a spoon, and serve with gravy under.

342. Loin or Neck of Pork a la Piemontaise. The neck
or loin must be plain roasted; you have peeled and cut four
onions in dice, put them into a stewpan, with two ounces of
butter, stir over the fire until rather brown, then add a table-
spoonful of flour, mix well, add a good pint of broth, if any,
or water, with an ounce of glaze, boil ten minutes, add two
tablespoonfuls of French mustard, with a little pepper, salt,
and sugar, pour the sauce upon the dish, and dress your
joint upon it ; serve with a little apple sauce separate in a
boat.

343. Loin or Neck of Pork, Normandy fashion. Pro-
cure a neck or loin, put it in a common earthen dish, having
previously scored the rind, rub over with a little oil, place
about twenty potatoes, cut in halves or in quarters, in the
dish with the pork, ten onions peeled, and twenty apples,
peeled and quartered, place in a warm oven for an hour and
a half or more, then dress it upon your dish with the apples,
onions, and potatoes around, and serve.

344. Bacon and Ham. Bacon-pigs are cut up differently
for hams, bacon, &c., but a poleaxe should never be used for
killing them, as it spoils the head. To be good, the fat must

REMOVES. 141

be firm, with a slight red tinge, the lean a dark red, and
stick close to the bone; the rind thin, if young; if old
(should it be well fed it is sometimes better), it will be thick.
For hams, choose one short in the hock; run the knife close
under the bone, when it comes out, if not smeared and has
a pleasant smell, it is good.

345. Ham. This useful and popular dish, which is equally
a favorite in the palace and the cottage, may be dressed in
upwards of fifty different ways, with as many different dishes,
which are described in their place. They should be well
soaked in w r ater, and boiled gently for three or four hours.
If to serve hot, take the skin off", except from the knuckle,
which cut to fancy ; trim the fat to a nice appearance, glaze
and serve, or throw over some sifted raspings of bread
mixed with a little chopped parsley. Serve where recom-
mended.

346. Bacon. A piece of good streaky bacon, not too salt,
should be put into cold water and boiled for one hour and
a half, and served with broad beans, when in season, round
it, or any young peas.

347. Sucking Pig is merely plain roasted, stuffed with
veal stuffing, but before putting it upon the spit it requires
to be floured and rubbed very dry, otherwise the skin would
not eat crisp; the usual method of serving it is to cut
off the head, and divide the body and head of the pig in
halves lengthwise ; pour over some sauce made of the brains
and a little brown sauce, or of white melted butter, nicely
seasoned with salt, pepper, and sugar ; serve apple sauce sep-
arate in a boat, if approved of.

348. Hind Quarter of Sucking Pig (Yorkshire fashion).
Cut off the skin, cover with paper, and roast before a
quick fire about three quarters of an hour; ten minutes be-
fore being ready, remove the paper and baste it; serve with
gravy under, and mint sauce and salad.

142 REMOVES.

349. Salt Pork. Pork is salted in the same manner as de-
scribed for beef, omitting the sal-prunella, but of course not
requiring so long a time ; a leg weighing seven pounds would
be well salted in a week, as also would a hand and spring
weighing about ten pounds, and either would require two
hours boiling, putting them in a stewpan, with cold water,
and serving with carrots and greens and pease pudding.

350. Pig's Cheek (a new method). Procure a pig's cheek
nicely pickled, boil well until it feels very tender, tie half a pint
of split peas in a cloth, put them into a stewpan of boiling
water, boil about half an hour, take them out, pass through a
hair sieve, put them into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, a
little pepper and salt, and four eggs, stir them over the fire
until the eggs are partially set, then spread it over the pig's
cheek, egg with a paste-brush, sprinkle bread-crumbs over,
place in the oven ten minutes, brown it with the salamander,
and serve.

351. Pickled Pork (Belly part). Choose a nice streaky
piece of about four pounds, it will take about three quarters of
an hour boiling ; serve, garnish with greens round it.

352. Hand of Pork. Choose one not too salt ; boil it for
one hour. Serve as above.

VENISON is cut up the same as mutton, with the exception of the sad-
dle, which is seldom or never cut ; the flesh should be dark, fine-grained
and firm, and a good coating of fat on the back. It should be well hung
and kept in a dry, cold place. By running a skewer in along the bone,
you will know when it is fit for eating ; examine it carefully every morn-
ing to cut out any fly-blows.

353. Haunch of Venison. A good haunch of venison, weigh-
ing from about twenty to twenty-five pounds, will take from three
to four hours roasting before a good solid fire ; trim the haunch
by cutting off part of the knuckle and sawing off the chine-bone ;
fold the flap over, then envelop it in a flour and water paste
rather stiff, and an inch thick, tie it up in strong paper, four
sheets in thickness, place it in your cradle spit so that it will

POULTRY. 143

turn quite even, place it at first very close to the fire until the
paste is well crusted, pouring a few ladlefuls of hot dripping
over occasionally to prevent the paper catching fire, then put it
rather further from the fire, which must be quite clear, solid,
and have sufficient frontage to throw the same heat on every
part of the venison ; when it has roasted the above time take
it up, remove it from the paste and paper, run a thin skewer
into the thickest part to ascertain if done ; if it resists the skewer
it is not done, and must be tied up and put down again, but if
the fire is good, that time will sufficiently cook it ; glaze the top
well, salamander until a little brown, put a frill upon the knuckle,
and serve very hot, with strong gravy, and plenty of French
beans separate.

354. Neck of Venison should be cut like a neck of mutton,
taking the breast off, leaving the neck about nine inches wide ;
detach the flesh from the chine-bone, and saw it off, leaving
only the cutlet bones, then pass a lark spit through it, cover it
with paste and paper the same as the haunch, and fix on spit,
and roast, if about eight pounds, for two hours before a good
fire.

POULTRY.

THIS is the best and most delicious of the various matters with which
man furnishes himself as food ; although containing but little nourish-
ment, it gives a delightful variety to our repasts : from the sparrow to
the turkey, we find everywhere, in this numerous class, that which gives
a meal equally as good for the invalid as the robust.

Increasing every day in luxuries, we have arrived at a point unknown
even to Lucullus ; we are not contented with the beautiful qualities which
Nature gives this species, but, under pretence of improving them, we
not only deprive them of their liberty by keeping them in solitude and
in darkness, but force them to eat their food, and thus bring them to a
degree of fatness which Nature never intended. Even the bird which
saved the capitol of Rome is treated with still greater indignity, thrust
into warm ovens and nearly baked alive to produce those beautiful and
delicious livers so well known to gourmets.*

The best way of killing poultry is to take the bird by the neck, plao

* Foie gras de Strasbourg.

144 POULTRY.

ing the thumb of the right hand just at the back of the head, closing the
head in your hand, your left hand holding the bird, then press your thumb
down hard and pull the head and neck contrariwise ; the neck will break
instantaneously, and the bird will be quite dead in a few seconds, then
hang it a short time by the legs for the blood to flow into the head, Avhich
renders the flesh much whiter. In France they are usually killed by
cutting the throat close to the head ; both methods are good with regard
to the whiteness of the flesh, but I prefer the English method, not being
so barbarous.

To pluck either game or poultry have the bird upon a board with its
head towards you, and pull the feathers away from you, which is the
direction they lie in ; many persons pull out the feathers in a contrary
direction, by which means they are likely to tear the skin to pieces,
wliich would very much disfigure the bird for the table.

To draw poultry after it is well plucked, cut a long incision at the
back of the neck, then take out the thin skin from under the outer with
the crop, cut the neck bone oif close to the body of the bird, but leave
the skin a good length, make an incision under the tail just large enough
for the gizzard to pass through, no larger ; then put your finger into the
bird at the breast and detach all the intestines, take care not to break
the gall-bladder, squeeze the body of the bird and force out the whole
from the incision at the tail ; it is then ready for trussing, the method of
doing which will be given in the various Receipts throughout this series.
The above method of drawing poultry is equally applicable to game.

TURKEY. The flesh of this bird depends greatly upon its feeding ;
it might be made much more valuable for table if proper attention was
paid to it. A young one should have his legs black and smooth and
spurs short, his" eyes look fresh and feet limber.

It is singular that this bird should take its name from a country in
which it was never seen ; in other countries in Europe it is called the
Indian cock, because, on the first discovery of America by Columbus, it
was supposed to be part of the continent of India, and thus it received
the name of the West Indies ; and this bird, being brought over on the
first voyage, was thus named. By many it is supposed to have been
brought over by the Jesuits in Spain and Portugal. It is familiarly
called so. It is also probable that they were the first who domesticated
it. I have seen it stated that it was known to the Romans, and was
served at the marriage of Charlemagne. From my researches I rather
think they confound it with the pheasant. It has more flavor than any
other of our domestic birds, and is, consequently, held in higher estima-
tion and enjoys a higher price. Do not fear these long receipts, as each
one contains several.

355. Plain Roasted Turkey, with Sausages. This well-
known dish, which has the joyous recollection of Christmas at-
tached to it, and its well-known cognomen of ' an alderman in
chains,' brings to our mind's eye the famed, hospitality of this

POULTRY. 145

mighty city. The following is my plan of cooking it. It must
be first trussed as follows : Having first emptied it, break the
leg-bone close to the foot, and draw out the sinews from the
thigh ; cut off the neck close to the back, leaving the skin long ;
wipe the inside with a wet cloth, cut the breast-bone through
on each side close to the back, and draw the legs close up ; fold
a cloth up several times, place it on the breast, and beat it down
until it lies flat ; put a skewer in the joint of the wing, and
another through the middle of the leg and body, one through
the small part of the leg and body, close to the side-bones, and
another through the extremity of the two legs. The liver and
gizzard should be placed between the pinions of the wings, and
the points turned on the back. When thus trussed, singe all
the hair off that may remain, take about one pound of stuffing
(see Receipt), and put it under the skin at the neck, tie the skin
under, but not too tight or it may burst in roasting, put it on to
a small-sized spit and fasten it with a holdfast, or hang it neck
downwards from a bottle-jack, put it about eighteen inches from
a good roasting-fire, let it turn about ten minutes, when the
skin is firm and dry you press into the bowl of a wooden spoon,
so that it sticks, about one ounce of butter, and rub the turkey
all over with it ; when all melted, remove the turkey eight inches
further from the fire : one of about six pounds will take two
hours to roast without pouring any fat over it. In case your
fire is too fierce and likely to break the skin, draw it back still
more ; it will, with proper care, be of a golden color. I do not
object to the gizzard being placed under the wing when roast-
ing, but never the liver, which I cook in the dripping-pan, as
the gravy which would run from it would spoil the color of the
breast. When done, remove it, cut the strings, lay it on your
dish, and pour under half a pint of good brown gravy, or make
some with glaze ; or, whilst the bird is roasting, butter the bot-
tom of a small stewpan, pick and slice two onions, lay them at
the bottom, cut the neck in small pieces, add half a spoonful of
salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, a little turnip, one clove, set on
a slow fire till the onions are of a brown color, then add a pint
of water, let it simmer for nearly one hour, then pass it through
a sieve into a basin, skim off the fat, return the gravy again
into a stewpan, give it a boil, and, when the turkey is ready to
send to table, pour it under ; if a little beef or veal handy, add
it to the gravy if you require much.

146 POULTRY.

This plan of roasting is adapted for all birds, and all my re-
ceipts for plain roasting of poultry will refer to this, with the
alteration of the time which each takes to cook.

For Sausages, I seldom broil them ; I prick them with a
needle, rub the bottom of the frying-pan with a little butter,
put twelve sausages in it, and set it on a slow fire and fry
gently for about fifteen minutes, turning them when required
(by this plan they will not burst), serve very hot round the
turkey, or on a separate dish, of smoking-hot mashed potatoes ;
to vary the gravy I have tried the following plan : take off the
fat which is in the frying-pan into a basin, then add the brown
gravy, mix a good teaspoonful of arrowroot in a cup with a
wineglassful of cold water, pour in the pan, boil a few min-
utes, pass it through a sieve, and serve with the turkey. The
gravy this way is excellent.

356. Turkey with flat Sausage Cake. Roast as before, fry
thirty oval flat sausages (see Receipt), the same quantity of the
same sized pieces of l^acon, a quarter of an inch thick, make
a border of mashed potatoes about the size of a finger, one
inch inside the edge of the dish, dress your sausages and bacon
on it as a crown alternately, put your turkey in the middle,
and gravy over, or glaze, if handy ; plain boiled tongue may,
of course, be served with the turkey, or separate on a dish of
greens ; if any remains of tongue from a previous day, it may
be served instead of the sausages, cut the same shape as sausages
and warmed in a pan ; if so, put a nice green Brussels sprout
between each piece. Bread sauce is generally served with this
dish ; for my own part, I never eat it.

BOILED TURKEY. This is a dish I rarely have, as I never could relish
it boiled as it generally is, by putting it into that pure and chaste ele-
ment water, into which has been thrown some salt, the quantity of which
differs as much as the individuals that throw it in. I often reflect to
myself, why should this innocent and well-brought up bird have its re-
mains condemned to this watery bubbling inquisition, especially when
alive it has the greatest horror of this temperate fluid ; it is really for
want of reflection that such mistakes occur : the flavor of a roasted
turkey, hot or cold, is as superior to the boiled as it is possible to be.
But yet there is a kind of boiling which can be adopted, and which I
pome times practise, which makes a nice palatable dish, and the broth
can be used for other purposes. I think, if you try it, you will never

POULTRY. 147

again resort to that bubbling system of salt and water. I proceed as
follows :

357. Boiled Braised Turkey. I truss it thus : Cut the neck,
leaving the skin on; cut the legs off; then run the middle
finger into the inside, raise the skin of the legs, and put them
under the apron of the turkey, put the liver and gizzard in the
pinions, turn the small end of the pinions on the back, run a
packing-needle with string through the joint of the wing and
middle joint of the leg, and through the body, and out at the
opposite leg and wing, bring it round and tie it on the back,
then run the needle and string through the ends of the legs
or drumstick, press it through the back, and tie strongly ; it is
then ready. When the turkey is trussed, I then stuff it ; and
if I intend to have oyster sauce with it, I chop about two dozen
of them into small dice and mix them with the stuffing, and
place inside the breast. I then rub the breast with half a
lemon, and put it into a two-gallon pan, and cover it with cold
water, in which I add two ounces of butter, one ounce of salt,
four onions, a stick of celery, one carrot, two turnips sliced, a
large bouquet of parsley, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme ;
set it on the fire, when beginning to boil, skim it, let it sim-
mer two hours, or more if large ; try the breast with a needle,
if it goes in and out easily it is done ; take it out and set it on
a dish to drain, remove the string, serve on a fresh dish with a
pint of good thick oyster sauce over it ; by omitting the oys-
ters in stuffing, you may serve the turkey with celery sauce,
Jerusalem sauce, tomato ditto, mushroom ditto, or good pars-
ley and butter ; and, as an accompaniment, a piece of about
two pounds of nice streaked bacon, which has been boiled with
the turkeyj and from which you have removed the skin, and
serve on some greens, or Brussels sprouts, over which you have
thrown a little salt, pepper, and two ounces of oiled butter.

You see, dear , that this dish can be varied without much

expense and trouble ; observe, that this way, the broth is good
for soup the same day, and by the addition of two pounds of
veal cut in small pieces, a quarter of a pound of lean bacon, one
onion, one blade of mace, one leek, a wineglass of water ; put
into a separate stewpan, stew on fire till forming a white glaze,
then add it to the turke^ when on the point of boiling ; when
done, skim off all fat, pass it through a tammy or cloth ; you
may use it for any clear soup by adding a little brown gravy or

148 POULTRY.

coloring, and also for any kind of puree ; or, by reducing it a
little, make white or brown sauce, adding to the last the proper
color. I must observe, that this will be almost impracticable
when you have a party ; the only plan would be to get the
turkey done one hour before you require it, keeping it hot with
its breast in some of the stock ; but, as the broth will keep
well in small quantities, it can be reserved for the next day.
That is my plan of boiling, but the following is my new way of
giving the flavor of vegetables to all poultry, which is a decided
improvement. The aroma from the bird when the cover is re-
moved is quite inviting, and the appearance of it, which is as
white as alabaster, and cuts also full of juice : I call it

358. Roast Braised Turkey. Peel and wash two onions,
one carrot, one turnip, cut them in thin slices, also a little celery,
a few sprigs of parsley, two bay -leaves, lay three sheets of paper
on the table, spread your vegetables, and pour over them two
or three tablespoonfuls of oil ; have your turkey, or poularde,
trussed the same as for boiling; cover the breast with thin
slices of bacon, and lay the back of the bird on the vegetables ;
cut a few slices of lemon, which you lay on the breast to keep
it white, tie the paper round with string, then pass the spit and
set it before the fire ; pour plenty of fat over to moisten the
paper and prevent from burning, roast three hours at a pretty
good distance from the fire ; capons will take two hours, pou-
lardes one hour and a half, fowls one hour, and chickens half
an hour. This way it may be served with almost any sauce or
garniture, as stewed peas, oyster sauce, jardiniere, stewed celery,
cauliflower, stewed cucumbers, Jerusalem artichokes, which
should be turned in the shape of a pear : these should be
dished on a border of mashed potatoes ; that is, an artichoke
and a Brussels sprout alternately, or a small piece of white
cauliflower, and a small bunch of green asparagus, or stewed
peas, or stewed celery of two inches long, never more, or any
other vegetable according to season, which taste or fancy may
dictate. When I want to serve them with brown garniture or
sauce, I remove the paper and vegetables twenty minutes be-
fore it is done, and give it a light gulden color, then I serve
it with either a ragout financier, or mushoom or English
truffle. I also often stuff it thus : I put two pounds of sausage

POULTRY. 149

meat in a basin with a little grated nutmeg ; I then take two
tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, put them in a saute-pan with
a little butter, and let them do for two minutes, which add to
the meat, also two eggs well beaten up, and a quarter of a pint
of white sauce if at hand, and fifteen fine roasted chestnuts ; add
this to the stuffing, and fill the bird as usual, not too full at the
breast ; roast as above, giving half an hour longer for the force-
meat, put a quart of demi-glaze and a glass of sherry in a stew-
pan, reduce it to a pint and a half, add in it fifty button onions
previously stewed, and twenty-five roasted chestnuts; sauce
under.

359. Turkey, if old. The French stew it exactly like the
ribs of beef, the receipt of which you have ; but as this is a
large " piece de resistance," I think I had better give it you in
full as I do it : Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a con-
venient-sized stewpan, such as will comfortably hold the old
gentleman ; cut one pound of lean bacon in ten or twelve pieces
for a few minutes in the pan on the fire, then add your turkey
trussed as for boiling, breast downwards ; set it on a moderate
fire for one hour, and until it is a nice color, add two tablespoon-
fuls of flour, and stir well round until it forms a roux, then add
two quarts of water or broth ; when you have it on the point of
boiling, add fifty pieces of carrot the size of walnuts, the like of
turnip, ten button onions, a good bouquet of sprigs of thyme,
two bay-leaves, and ten of parsley, a small glass of rum, a clove,
a piece of garlic, and let it stew gently for four hours. If you
use water, season in proportion. Take your turkey out, and put
the vegetables and sauce in a smaller stewpan, which ought to
be nearly full ; let it simmer on the corner of the fire, so that the
fat rises and may be removed, and reduce it to a demi-glaze,
dish up your turkey and serve with the sauce over it ; small new
potatoes, about twenty, when in season, may be added to the
sauce or roasted chestnuts. The remains are excellent when
cold, or will warm again with the addition of a little broth or
water. The series of entrees will contain the dishes made from
the remnants of the foregoing receipts.

FOWLS, in a general sense, mean all kinds of poultry, but, in a limi-
ted view, mean one species of bird, which is exceedingly common in all

150 POULTRY.

parts of Europe : there are an amazing number of kinds of this species
produced by crossing the breed ; great attention having been bestowed
upon this subject of late years, that it is quite impossible to say which
is the best. They are not originally natives of England, but were
found there by the Romans, having probably been brought by the Phoani-
cians. We distinguish this kind in cookery as the chicken, capon, pullet,
cock, and hen. Chickens from their age" cannot be otherwise but ten-
der ; capons should have a fat vein on the side of the breast, thick belly
and rump, comb short and pale, spurs short and blunt, and legs smooth.
Pullets are best in the spring, just before they begin to lay. Cocks
should have their spurs short, legs smooth, and comb short, smooth, and
a bright color. Hens, legs and comb smooth, and full breast. Black
legs are best for roasting and entrees, and white for boiling.

For preparing them for table, M. Soyer has invented a plan : by
cutting the sinews of the bird, it not only appears fuller and plumper
when cooked, as the heat is liable to contract the sinews, but it also
affords facility for carving when the sinews are divided ; they are trussed
in the usual way, only using string instead of skewers. The following
is the ordinary plan of trussing

For Roasting. Having emptied the fowl and cleaned the gizzard,
cut the skin of the wings, and put the gizzard and liver through it, and
turn the pinion under ; put a skewer through the first joint of the pinion
and the body, coming out at the opposite side, and bring the middle of
the leg close up to it ; run a skewer through the middle of both legs
and body, and another through the drumstick and side-bone, and one
through the skins of the feet, the nails of which must be cut off.

For Boiling. Prepare as before ; put the finger in the inside, and
raise the skin of the legs ; cut a hole in the top of the skin, and put the
legs under ; put the gizzard and liver in the pinions, and run a skewer
through the first joint ; draw the leg close up, and run a skewer through
the middle of the legs and the body, tie a string on the tops of the legs
to keep them in their proper place.

360. Poulards, Capons, and Fowls. These are the best at
nine and ten months old ; if after twelve or fourteen, are only fit
to be stewed like the turkey, No. 369, but in less time, or boiled
in broth or sauces, but when young serve as boiled turkey, No.
367. Roast, No. 365, less time, but take care to do it well, as
white meat with red gravy in it is unbearable.

361. Capon or Poulard roasted. Prepare it as you would
a turkey, and it may be stuffed with the same kind of stuffing,
tie over the breast a large slice of fat bacon, about a quarter of
an inch thick, and two sheets of paper ; ten minntes before
being done, remove the paper and bacon, dredge it, and put a
piece of butter on it, so that it is of a nice color, dish it up very
hot with a gravy like the roast turkey.

POULTRY. 151

362. Capon boiled. The same as the turkey.

363. Capon or Poulard a VEstragon. I have been told
many fanciful epicures idolize this dish. The bird should be
trussed for boiling ; rub the breast with half a lemon, tie over
it some thin slices of bacon, cover the bottom of a small stewpan
with thin slices of the same, and a few trimmings of either beef,
veal, or lamb, two onions, a little carrot, turnip, and celery, two
bay-leaves, one sprig of thyme, a glass of sherry, two quarts of
water, season lightly with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, simmer
about one hour and a quarter, keeping continually a little fire on
the lid, strain three parts of the gravy into a small basin, skim off
the fat, and pass through a tammy into a small stewpan, add a
drop of gravy or coloring to give it a nice brown color, boil a few
minutes longer, and put about forty tarragon leaves ; wash, and
put in the boiling gravy, with a tablespoonful of good French
vinegar, and pour over the capon when you serve it ; by clarify-
ing the gravy, it is an improvement. All kinds of fowls and
chickens are continually cooked in this manner in France. They
are also served with rice.

364. Poulard with Rice. Having been braised as before,
have a quarter of a pound of good rice washed, put in a stew-
pan, with a pint of broth, three spoonfuls of the capon's fat from
the stewpan, a bouquet of parsley, let it simmer until it is ten-
der, take the parsley out, add two ounces of butter, a little salt,
pepper, nutmeg, stir it round, or form it into a delicate pulpy
paste, lay some of it on a dish with the capon on it, put the re-
mainder round it, making it smooth with a knife, leaving the
breast uncovered ; salamander the rice, and serve clear gravy
separate ; sometimes I add a little curry powder in the gravy,
and egg and bread-crumb the rice, and salamander or make the
rice yellow with curry powder, and make a border of half eggs
round the dish, it looks well, and that is a great thing ; and one
fowl done thus will often go as far as two plain. It is generally
the custom with us to send either ham, tongue, or bacon, as an
accompaniment to poultry. I endeavor to vary it as much as
possible ; the following is one of my receipts.

365. Poulards or Capons, with Quenelles and Tongue.

152 POULTRY.

When you are either roasting or braising, you make about
twenty quenelles with table spoons, out of forcemeat of veal.
Proceed and cook the same ; when done, make a roll of mashed
potatoes, which put round the dish you intend to serve it in,
have ready cut from a cold tongue as many pieces of the shape
of the quenelles, warm gently in a little gravy, then put the
quenelles on the border ; having cut a piece off the end, so that
they may stand properly, with a piece of tongue between each,
put the fowl in the centre, have ready made a quart of a new
white sauce, which pour over the fowl and quenelles, glaze the
tongue, and serve very hot. I found this dish at first rather
complicated, but now my cook can do it well without my
assistance ; it looks and eats well, but is only adapted for a
dinner of importance.

366. The same with Cucumbers. Cut about four nice fresh
cucumbers into lengths of two inches, peel and divide them
down the middle, tafce the seedy part out, trim the corners,
put about thirty of them into a stewpan, with two ounces
of butter, a spoonful of eschalot, and the same of sugar ; lay on
a very slow fire for half an hour, or till tender ; lay them on a
border of mashed potatoes, with quenelles as above, and place
the tongue between ; in another stewpan you have put a little
butter, and the trimmings of the cucumbers, then add a quart
of white sauce, boil and pass through a tammy, adding a little
sugar, or other seasoning if required, and finish with half a gill
of good cream sauce over all except the tongue, which glaze.
Cauliflower, sprue grass, Jerusalem artichokes, or Brussels
sprouts, like the turkey, make excellent and inviting dishes.

367. Capon with young Carrots. Scrape two bunches of
young carrots, keep them in their original shape as much
as possible, wash them and dry on a cloth, put them into
a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a little sugar, salt,
and pepper, set it on the fire for ten minutes, moving them
now and then, add a quart of white broth, simmer gently until
very tender and it comes to a demi-glaze ; dish the carrots on a
border of potatoes, the points towards the centre, cook some
small button onions the same way, but very white, and dress
them alternately ; mix the two gravies together with a quart of

POULTRY. 153

demi-glaze, set it on the fire, boil fast, skim it, when forming a
bright thinnish sauce, pour it over the capon and vegetables ;
it being served with a brown sauce, it ought to be roasted
brown like turkey (No. 355) ; turnips may also be added instead
of carrots, or both.

368. Fowls, Italian way. Prepare and cook the fowls
as above, or re-warm some that may be left, cut the remains of
a tongue into pieces one inch long and one quarter in thick-
ness, cut three times the quantity of plain boiled macaroni the
same way, with a few mushrooms, and add the whites of four
eggs to it, with some broth and half a pint of white sauce ; when
boiling, add a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan and half
that of Gruyere, shake the stewpan so that the contents are well
mixed, add a little salt and cayenne, put fowl on dish, sauce over
and serve ; or put the macaroni on the dish, mix bread-crumbs
and a little grated cheese together and sprinkle over it, put it
into the oven until it is a yellow-brown cplor, put the fowl on it
very hot, and serve with a little white sauce over, and a strong
gravy separate.

369. Fowl a VEcarlate. Roast and braise two nice fowls,
and boil a fine salted tongue, which trim so as to be able to
stand it in a dish, when place it in the middle in a slanting
position, place two fine heads of cauliflower at each end, and
make a pint of cream sauce, pour over the fowl, and brocoli ;
glaze the tongue and serve. Fowls may be dressed in any of
the ways before described, and dished up thus.

GEESE. We have now arrived at your favorite dish, or, as your
better half said on your return home from this, " What is better than a
goose stuffed with sage and onion ?" Of course many persons are of his
idea, and I must say that I for one enjoy them occasionally when
in season ; yes, indeed I do, and with the original apple-sauce too ; this
last addition to our national cookery must have been conferred on it by
the Germans, who eat sweets or stewed fruit with almost every dish ;
or, perhaps, from William the Conqueror, who left his hind of apples to
visit and conquer our shores ; but never mind to whom we are indebted
for this bizarre culinary mixture, I sincerely forgive them, and intend to
have one for dinner to-day, which I shall have cooked as follows ; but I
must first tell you how they should be chosen. The flesh should be of
a fine pink color, and the liver pale, the bill and foot yellow, and no

154 POULTRY.

hairs, or but few, on the body ; the contrary will be observed in an old
one, which will have the feet and bill red.

3*70. Goose (to truss). Having well picked the goose, cut
the feet off at the joint, and the pinion at the first joint ; cut off
the neck close to the back, leaving all the skin you can ; pull
out the throat, and tie a knot at the end ; put your middle finger
in at the breast, loosen the liver, &c., cut it close to the rump,
and draw out all the inside except the soal,* wipe it well, and
beat the breast bone flat ; put a skewer in the wings, and draw
the legs close up, running a skewer through the middle of both
legs and body ; draw the small of the leg close down to the
side bone, and run a skewer through ; make a hole in the skin
large enough to admit the trail, which when stuffed place
through it, as it holds the stuffing better.

371. Roast Goose. Peel and cut in rather small dice six
middle-sized onions, put in a pan, with two ounces of butter,
half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, a little
grated nutmeg and sugar, six leaves of fresh sage chopped fine,
put on fire, stir with wooden spoon till in pulp, then have the
goose ready trussed as under, and stuff it whilst hot, tie the
skin of the neck to tHe back, pass the spit through and roast
two hours before a moderate fire ; baste the same as turkey
(No. 355), give a nice yellow color, remove it from the spit,
take off the string, and serve with half a pint of good brown
gravy under and apple-sauce in a boat.

372. The same, with another stuffing. I have tried it with
the liver chopped and mixed it with the onions ; I also at times
add two cold potatoes cut in dice and a spoonful of boiled rice ;
it removes the richness of the fat, and renders it more palatable
and digestive ; and I also sometimes add twenty chestnuts cut
into dice. The giblets should be stewed or made into pies.
(See Receipt.) Where there is no gravy, broth, or glaze, still
gravy is wanted, therefore put into the dripping-pan a tea-
spoonful of salt, half a pint of water, and dredge a little flour

* This word is not found in dictionaries, but is used by poulterers to denote that
email piece of the lungs which is left in the bird.

POULTRY. 155

on it; when the bird is done, pour the contents of the pan into
a cup, remove the fat, pour over the back of the bird, which
serve on a very hot dish as soon as taken from the fire.

373. Goose roasted (another way). Having the goose ready
the clay previous to using, take three cloves of garlic, which cut
into fbur pieces each and place inside the goose, and stuff it as
follows ; take four apples, four onions, four leaves of sage not
broken, four leaves of lemon-thyme not broken, and boil in a
stewpan with sufficient water to cover them ; when done, pulp
them through a sieve, removing the sage and thyme, then add
sufficient pulp of mealy potatoes to cause it to be sufficiently
dry without sticking to the hand, add pepper and salt, and stuff
the bird, having previously removed the garlic, tie the neck and
rump, and spit it, paper the breast, which remove after it has
been at the fire for twenty minutes ; when done, serve it plain
with a thickened gravy.

374. Goose stewed. If an old one, stew it with vegetables,
as duck (No. 378), only give it more time to cook. On the
Continent they are dressed in different ways, but which are too
complicated for both our kitchens.

375. Goose Giblets, Ragout of,or of Turkey. Put them
into half a gallon of warm water to disgorge for a few hours,
then dry them on a cloth, cut into pieces not too small, put
into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of good lean bacon, with
two ounces of butter ; when a little brown, add your giblets,
and fry for twenty minutes longer, stirring it together ; add a
little flour, a good bouquet of parsley, twenty button onions,
same number of pieces of carrot and turnip, two saltspoonfuls
of salt, the same of sugar, stew together one hour until tender,
skim off the fat, dish up the meat, reduce the salt if required,
take bouquet out, and sauce over the giblets : both goose and
turkey giblets take the same time to stew. If any remaining,
they will make a capital pie or pudding, or merely warm up
with broth or water, and a little flour.

376. Preserved Goose for the farm or Country House.
In case you have more geese hi condition and season than what

156 POULTRY.

you consume, kill and cut them up into pieces, so that
there shall be as little flesh left on the carcase as possible, and
bone the leg ; rub into each piece with your fingers some salt,
in which you have mixed a little saltpetre, put them into an
earthen pan, with some thyme, bay-leaf, spice, a clove of chop-
ped garlic, rub them for a couple of days, after which dip each
piece in water and dry on a cloth ; when you have chopped
fine and melted all the fat you could get from the goose, and
scraped a quarter of a pound of fat bacon and melted with it,
pass through a sieve into a stewpan, lay the pieces in it, and
bake very gently in a slow oven until a stiff piece of straw will
go through it, then lay it in a sieve ; when nearly cold put it in
a bowl or round preserving jar, and press a smaller one on the
top so that it all forms one solid mass, pour the fat over, when
cold cover with a piece of bladder, keep it in a cold place,
and it will be good for months together, and is excellent for
breakfast, luncheon, or supper, having previously extracted the
fat. Last winter I kept some for three months quite sweet ;
having half a one left, I put it by in the above way. bones and
all, in a basin, and covered with the fat produced with roasting,
and put in the larder, and it was excellent. Ducks may be
served in the same way.

DUCKS. There are several varieties of this bird, all, however,
originating from the mallard. There has not been that care and atten-
tion paid to this bird as to the fowl ; but I think it is well worthy the
attention of farmers, it being one which is exceedingly cheap to rear ;
great care should be evinced in feeding it twelve days previous to its
being killed. Ducklings are considered a luxury, but which, I think, is
more to be attributed to their scarcity than flavor. The drake is gen-
erally considered the best, but, as a general rule, those of the least
gaudy plumage are the best ; they should be hard and thick on the
belly, and Umber-footed.

377. Ducks roasted. Prepare them for the spit (that is, the
same as geese, only leave the fat on), and stuff them with sage,
onion, and bread-crumbs, prepared as for the goose, roast before
a very quick fire, and serve very hot. There are many ways
of cooking ducks, but this is the plainest and the best.

378. Stewed Duck and Peas. Procure a duck trussed
with the legs turned inside, which put into a stewpan with two

POULTRY. 157

ounces of butter and a quarter of a pound of streaked bacon
let remain over a fire, stirring occasionally until lightly brown-
ed, when add a tablespoonful of flour (mix well) and a quart
of broth or water, stir round gently until boiling, when skim,
and add twenty button onions, a bunch of parsley, with a bay-
leaf, and two cloves, let simmer a quarter of an hour, then add
a quart of nice young peas, let simmer until done, which will
take about half an hour longer, take out the duck, place it upon
your dish (taking away the string it was trussed with), take out
the parsley and bay-leaf, season the peas with a little pepper,
salt, and sugar, skim the fat, reduce a little if not sufficiently
thick, pour over the duck and serve.

379. Duckling with Turnips is a very favorite dish amongst
the middle classes in France. Proceed as in the last, but in-
stead of peas use about forty pieces of good turnips cut into
moderate-sized square pieces, having previously fried them of a
light yellow color in a little butter or lard, and drained them
upon a sieve, dress the duck upon a dish as before, season the
sauce with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce until rather
thickish, a thin sauce not suiting a dish of this description ;
the turnips must not, however, be in puree ; sauce over and
serve.

The remains of ducks left from a previous dinner may be
hashed as directed for goose, and for variety, should peas be
in season, a pint previously boiled may be added to the hash
just before serving. The sage and apple must in all cases be
omitted.

380. Ducks a V Aubergiste (or Tavern-keepers' fashion).
Truss one or two ducks with the legs turned inside, put them
into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter ; place them
over a slow fire, turning round occasionally, until they have taken
a nice brown color, add two spoonfuls of flour, mix well with
them, add a quart of water, with half a tablespoonful of salt
and sugar, let simmer gently until the ducks are done (but
adding forty button onions well peeled as soon as it begins to
boil), keep hot; peel and cut ten turnips in slices, fry them
in a frying-pan in butter, drain upon a cloth, put them into
the sauce, and stew until quite tender ; dress the ducks upon your

158 FLANCS ENTREES.

dish, skim the fat from the sauce, which has attained a con-
sistency, add some fresh mushrooms, pour round the ducks
and serve.

FLANCS.

AT this part of the dinner there are those dishes which are called
Flancs, by which is understood, those dishes whose contents are not so
large as the removes and not so small as the entrees, and the Receipts
for which may be taken from either of those departments, with tnis
difference ; instead of meat or poultry being cut up, it should be left
whole : for instance, a loin of mutton, instead of being cut up into cutlets,
should be served whole, with some sauce under it, and a duck, instead of
being divided, should be left whole, with some sauce. It is also a great
addition in the appearance of the table, and should always be served in
a differently-formed dish to the entrees or removes ; and are only re-
quired when eighteen or twenty persons dine, and four corner dishes
are used.

ENTREES OR MADE DISHES.

ENTREES are, in common terms, what are called made-dishes; of
course, these are dishes upon which, in the high class of cookery, the
talent of the cook is displayed. Great care should be observed in dish-
ing them up, for the eye is a great assistance to the palate ; it often hap-
pens that the carelessness of the servant destroys the labors of the cook,
by the manner in which the dish is taken from the kitchen to the dining-
room. In some measure to avoid that, I direct a small thin border of
mashed potatoes, about half an inch wide and a quarter of an inch deep,
to be placed on the bottom of the dish, which keeps each object in its
place : they should always be served exceedingly hot.

Made Dishes of Beef. The remainder of any cooked joints
of beef may be advantageously and economically dressed in the
following ways :

381. Hashed Beef. Cut the beef into small thin slices, which
lay upon a plate, and to every pound of beef add half a table-
spoonful of flour, a little chopped onion or eschalot, two salt-
spoonfuls of salt, and a half one of pepper, mix the whole well

ENTREES. 159

together, and put it into a saucepan, with half a pint of water,
stir it over the fire until upon the point of boiling, when set it
at the corner of the fire to simmer for ten minutes ; it is then
ready to serve. A great improvement to the appearance of
hash may be effected by adding a few spoonfuls of brown gravy
(No. 1*77), or a teaspoonful of coloring (No. 178), which might
always be kept in a bottle. The flavor of any kind of hash
may be varied, by adding a few sprigs of parsley, or thyme, or
a couple of bay-leaves, or a little tarragon, or a few spoonfuls of
catsup, Soyer's, Harvey's, Soho, or Reading sauce.

382. Miroton of Beef. Peel and cut into thin slices two
large onions, put them in a stewpan or saucepan, with two
ounces of salt butter, place it over a slow fire, keeping the onions
stirred round with a wooden spoon until rather brown, but not
burnt in the least, then add a teaspoonful of flour, which mix
well in, and moisten with half a pint of water or broth if handy,
season with three saltspoonfuls of salt, two of sugar, and one of
pepper if water has been used, but if broth, diminish the quan-
tity of salt, add a little coloring (No. 178), to improve its ap-
pearance ; put in the beef, which you have previously cut into
small thin slices, as free from fat as possible, let it remain a few
minutes upon the fire to simmer, and serve upon a hot dish.
To vary the flavor, a tablespoonful of vinegar might be added,
or half a glass of sherry. The above proportions are sufficient
for one pound and a half of solid meat, and of course could be
increased or diminished, if more or less meat.

383. Another way. Prepare the meat precisely as in the
last, and when done put it into a pie-dish, sprinkle bread-crumbs
lightly over, enough to cover the meat, upon which lay a small
piece of butter, put the dish in the oven for half an hour, or
before the fire, with a screen behind it, turning the dish round
occasionally. By grating the crust of bread you would obtain
some brown bread-crumbs, which would do equally as well as
bread rubbed through a sieve.

Should you have any cold from the first receipt, it may be
served as here directed ; but being cold, would require to be
longer in the oven to become well hot through.

160 ENTREES.

384. Another way. If any left from a previous dinner, put
it in a dish, placing the meat in the centre, rather higher, cover
over with some delicate mashed potatoes, about two inches in
thickness, to form a dome, rub some egg over with a paste-
brush, and sprinkle crumbs of bread (either grated or otherwise)
upon the top, and set in the oven until well browned, when
serve.

385. A quicker way. Cook a few slices of lean bacon in a
frying-pan, but not too much, lay some of them in the bottom
of the pie-dish, over which lay slices of beef cut thin, which
season with a little pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and chopped
eschalots (if not objectionable), sprinkle over a little flour,
proceeding thus until the dish is pretty full, when pour over
half a gill of broth or water, to which you have added a little
coloring, No. 178, (more seasoning would be required if water
was used), set the dish in the oven (having previously covered
the meat over with mashed potatoes) for about an hour. By
adding half the above quantity of liquor, the meat might be
covered with a thin suet crust and served as a pie, as also
might any of the former receipts, in which also a bay-leaf,
chopped parsley, or even chopped gherkins, might be served,
being a great improvement.

386. Beef Palates. Although this is an article very seldom
used in small families, they are very much to be commended ;
they may be dressed in various ways, and are not expensive,
about four would be sufficient for a dish. Put them into a
large stewpan of lukewarm water, where let them remain four
or five hours to disgorge, after which pour off the water, cover
again with fresh water, and place the stewpan upon the fire
until the palates become hard, when take out one, which dip
into cold water, scrape it with a knife, and if the skin comes
off easily, take out the remainder, but if not, let them remain
a short time longer, scrape them until you have got off all the
skin, and nothing but the white half transparent substance
remains. Then make a white stock as directed (No. 130), in
which boil them three or four hours until very tender, which
try with the point of a knife, then take them up, lay them flat
upon a dish, covered with a little of the stock, and place

ENTREES. 161

another dish of the same size over, to keep them flat, let
remain until cold, when they are ready to serve in either of the
following ways :

387. Beef Palates a la Bretonne. Peel and cut two large
onions into slices, which put into a stewpan, with an ounce of
butter, stirring them over the fire until lightly fried, when add
a teaspoonful of flour, which mix well in, and a gill of broth,
season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, add a few drops of
brown gravy or browning (No. 179), and a spoonful of
mustard ; boil the whole, keeping it stirred until forming a
thickish pulp, when cut the palates into square pieces, and put
into it ; when well hot through they are ready to serve ; also
make a curry sauce, as No. 151 ; cut your palate and warm in
it, serve with rice separate, and it is delicious.

388. Beef Palates a la Poulette. Make a little white sauce
as directed, No. 130; after having prepared the palates, cut
them into square pieces, and put them into a stewpan, just
covered with some of the white sauce, season with a little white
pepper, salt, sugar, chopped parsley, and the juice of half a
lemon ; let them simmer about five minutes, when pour in a
liaison of one yolk of an egg, mixed with two tablespoonfuls
of cream or milk, stir it in rather quickly, and not afterwards
permitting it to boil, then turn it upon your dish, place sippets
of toasted bread round, and serve : chopped parsley and a little
lemon may be added.

389. Beef Palates a la Maitre <T Hotel. Cut up the
palates as in the last, and put them into a stewpan, just
covered with melted butter, to which add a gill of milk, let
simmer very gently about ten minutes, stirring it round occa-
sionally; have ready two ounces of well-seasoned maitre d'
hotel butter, which put into the stewpan, shaking it round until
the butter is melted and well mixed, when serve as in the last.

390. Ox-tails a la Jardiniere. Cut and cook two ox-tails
directed for soup, but just before they are done, skim well,

162 ENTREES.

and take out the pieces of tails, which put upon a dish, then in
another stewpan put two ounces of butter, to which, when
melted, add three ounces of flour, stirring it over the fire until
forming a brownish roux (thickening), then mix by degrees
two quarts of the stock the tails were boiled in, and boil
altogether ten minutes, then put in the tails, with one carrot
and two turnips (cut into small dice, or any other shape, with
a vegetable cutter), and about thirty button onions ; let the
whole simmer very gently upon the corner of the fire, keeping
it well skimmed, until the vegetables are tender, and the sauce
sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of the spoon, when
dress the meat upon a dish, reduce the sauce, which pour over,
and serve.

391. Ox-tails au Gratin. Cook two ox-tails as before,
and when cold, dry them upon a cloth, season with pepper and
salt, have a couple of eggs well beaten upon a plate, into which
dip each piece singly, afterwards throwing them into a dish of
bread-crumbs, to cover every part, then beat them lightly with
a knife, and again egg and bread-crumb them, broil them upon
a gridiron, or place them in a very hot oven until of a brownish
color, when serve with any sauce you may fancy, or with a
little plain gravy.

392. Ox-tails, Sauce piquante. Cook the tails as before,
and when done dress them upon your dish pyramidically, then
make about a pint of sharp sauce, No. 135, but omitting half
the quantity of vinegar, and reducing it until rather thick ;
season rather highly, add three or four gherkins chopped very
fine, pour the sauce over, and serve.

393. Ox Heart. This dish, although not very recherche, is
a good family one, and remarkable for its cheapness. Put it
into lukewarm water one hour to disgorge, then wipe it well
with a cloth, and stuff the interior with a highly-seasoned veal
stuffing, tie it up in paper, and pass a small spit through the
sides-, set it before a good fire for about two hours to roast,
keeping it well basted; when done, take off the paper, and
serve with any sharp sauce, or a little plain gravy. Two hours

ENTREES. 163

would be sufficient to roast a large heart ; but if smaller, of
course less time in proportion would be required. I have also
stuffed a heart with sage and onion, and even ventured the ap-
ple sauce : both succeeded admirably.

I remember, when in business, upon one occasion, having a few friends
pop in unexpectedly about luncheon-time upon a Saturday (which is a
day I always contrived to keep my larder as short as possible), and having
notlu'ng but a heart as a meal to give them, I immediately gave orders
to the cook to cut it into slices half an inch thick, dip each piece in flour,
and afterwards egg and bread-crumb them, then to put four spoonfuls
of oil in the frying-pan, lay part of the pieces in, and saute of a nice
color, then to keep them hot in a dish and saute the remainder ; and
when all done, to pour off part of the oil, put a teaspoonful of flour in
the pan, mixing it with the remaining oil and gravy, then pouring in a
gill of water, season with a little pepper and salt, four spoonfuls of the
vinegar from piccalilly, and a little of the pickle finely chopped ; boil
the whole a minute, pour over the heart, and serve very hot. It pleased
very much, and I have since had some with a little plain gravy, and
broiled bacon : in both instances it was very good.

394. Potato Sandwiches. Saute the slices of beef as di-
rected for bubble and squeak, cover one side of each piece with
mashed potatoes a quarter of an inch in thickness, egg and
bread-crumb over, then proceed the same with the other sides,
fry in hot fat of a light brown color, as you would a sole, and
serve. Any kind of fresh meat may be used in the same
way.

395. Bubble and Squeak. I am certain you must know, as
well as myself, of our hereditary dish called bubble and squeak ;
but, like the preparation of other things, there is a good way
and a bad ; and, as you prefer the former to the latter, proceed
as follows : Boil a few greens, or a savoy cabbage (which has
been previously well-washed), in plain water until tender, which
then drain until quite dry in a colander or sieve, put it upon a
trencher, and chop it rather fine with a knife, then for a pound
of salt beef you have in slices, put nearly a quarter of a pound
of butter into a frying-pan, in which saute the beef gently but
not too dry ; when done, keep it hot, put the cabbage in the
frying-pan, season with a little salt and pepper, and when hot
through, dress it upon a dish, lay the beef over and serve.

164 ENTREES.

Endive or large cabbage-lettuces may be used instead of cab-
bage, but care must be taken to drain off all the water.

396. Stewed Beef or Rump Steak. Have a steak weighing
two pounds, and an inch and a half in thickness, then put two
ounces of butter at the bottom of a stewpan, when melted lay
in the steak, with a quarter of a pound of lean bacon cut into
very small square pieces, place the stewpan over the fire, turn-
ing the steak over occasionally until a little browned, when lay
it out upon a dish, then add a tablespoonful of flour to the but-
ter in the stewpan, which continue stirring over the fire until
forming a brownish roux, then again lay in the steak, add a pint
of water, with a glass of sherry if handy, and a little pepper,
salt, and a couple of bay-leaves, let simmer slowly for one
hour, when skim off all the fat, and add twenty button onions,
let it again simmer until the onions are very tender, as likewise
the steak, which dress upon a dish, take the onions and bacon
out with a colander-spoon, and lay them upon the steak, pour
the sauce round and serve. This slow process must not alarm
you.

397. Ox Brains are prepared exactly as directed for calf's
brains, but being larger, require much longer to disgorge, as
also a proportionate time longer to cook ; when done, in addition
to the sauce ordered for calf's brains, they may be served with
strips of bacon broiled and dressed in a border round, sauce
over with highly-seasoned melted butter and parsley sauce.
You must observe, that all such kind of dishes being of them-
selves naturally tasteless, require to be highly seasoned : any
sharp sauce is good with it.

398. Beef a-la-Mode. Procure a small piece of rump, sir-
loin, or ribs of beef, about twelve pounds in weight, take away
all the bone, and lard the meat through with ten long pieces of
fat bacon, then put it into a long earthen pan, with a calf's foot,
four onions, two carrots, cut in slices if large, a bunch of pars-
ley, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme, two cloves stuck into
one of the onions, half a teaspoonful of pepper, one of salt,
four wine-glasses of sherry, four ditto of water, and a pound
of streaky bacon cut in squares, place the cover over the pan

ENTREES. 165

with a piece of common flour and water paste round the
edges to keep it perfectly air-tight, and place it in a moderate
oven four hours, when take out of the pan, and dress upon
a dish with the vegetables and bacon round, skim and pass
the gravy through a hair sieve, which pour over and serve.
But the above is best eaten cold, when it should not be taken
from the pan, or the pan opened until nearly so.

A long brown earthen pan for the above purposes may be
obtained at any china warehouse, but should you not be
able to procure one, a stewpan must supply its place.

399. Another method. Have ready six pounds of rump
of beef, cut into pieces two inches square, each of which
lard through with two or three strips of bacon; have also
two pounds of streaky bacon, which clear from the rind and
cut, into squares half the size of the beef, put the whole into
an earthen pan, with two calf's feet (cut up small), half a
pint of sherry, two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, a bunch of
parsley, four onions, with a clove stuck in each, a blade of
mace, and half a pint of water, cover the pan as in the last,
and put it in a moderate oven for three hours ; when done,
do not remove the lid until three parts cold, then take out
the meat, lay some of the beef at the bottom of the stew-
pan (not too large), then a little bacon, then more beef, and
so on alternately, press them lightly together, pass the gravy
through a hair sieve over, and leave it until quite cold and set,
when dip the stewpan into hot water, and turn it out upon a
dish to serve. The calf's feet may be made hot in a little of
the stock, to which add two pats of butter, with which you
have mixed a teaspoonful of flour, season with a little chopped
parsley and half a spoonful of vinegar, and serve as an entree.
The above is excellent either hot or cold.

400, Fillet of Beef. Procure a piece of fillet of beef
weighing about two or three pounds, which may be obtained at
any butcher's, being cut from underneath the rump ; trim off
part of the fat, so as to round the fillet, which cut into slices the
thickness of your finger, beat them lightly with a chopper, and
cut the thin skin which covers the top of the fillet, to prevent

166 ENTREES.

their curling up whilst broiling ; place them upon a gridiron over
a sharp fire, seasoning with a little salt and pepper, and turning
three or four times to preserve the gravy : about six or seven
minutes will be sufficient to cook them. Three or four slices
would be sufficient for a corner dish ; but if for a principal dish,
of course more would be required. Fillet of beef dressed as
above may be rubbed over with maitre d'hdtel or anchovy but-
ter, and served very hot.

401. Fillet of Beef saute. After having cut the fillet in
slices as in the last, put two ounces of butter into a clean frying-
pan, which set upon the fire, and when melted, lay in the meat,
seasoned with a saltspoonful of salt and half that quantity of
pepper to each piece ; turn them over three or four times whilst
cooking, and, when done, dress upon your dish, with either of
the butters mentioned in the last spread over.

402. Another method. When the fillets are dished up, put
a tablespoonful of chopped onions into the pan they were cooked
in, which cook for about a minute, but not letting them burn,
then pour off part of the fat, if too much, and add two teaspoon-
fuls of flour ; stir with a wooden spoon until becoming brown-
ish, then add nearly a pint of water, a tablespoonful of vinegar,
and a few drops of browning ; let it boil a few minutes, season-
ing with a little pepper, salt, and sugar ; when of the consistency
of thick sauce, pour over the fillets and serve. A few chopped
pickles of any description (but not too hot) might be introduced,
but then half the quantity of vinegar would be sufficient. A
spoonful of Harvey's sauce may be added, and a little glaze im-
proves it.

Mutton, lamb, or pork-chops, or veal-cutlets may be dressed
in a similar manner.

403. Minced Beef. Cut a pound and a half of lean cooked
beef into very small dice, which put upon a plate ; in a stew-
pan put a good teaspoonful of finely-chopped onions, with a piece
of butter of the size of a walnut, which stir over the fire until
the onions become lightly browned, when stir in half a table-
spoonful of flour, with which mix by degrees half a pint of

ENTREES. 167

broth (or water) to which you have added a few drops of brown-
ing and a teaspoonful of vinegar ; let it boil five minutes, stirring
it the whole time ; then throw in the meat, season rather highly
with a little pepper and salt, and, when hot, pour it into a deep
dish, and serve with sippets of toasted bread round, or poached
eggs on it.

404. Croquettes of Beef. Proceed precisely as in the last,
but omitting the vinegar ; when done, stir in two yolks of eggs
quickly, stir another minute over the fire, then pour it upon
a dish until cold ; have a couple of eggs well beaten upon a
plate, also some bread-crumbs in a separate dish, then divide the
preparation into about a dozen pieces, which roll up into round
balls, or any other shape, and throw them into the bread-crumbs,
move them over until well covered, then roll them into the egg,
then the bread-crumbs again, from which take them gently,
patting the surface lightly with a knife, put them into very hot
lard or fat to fry of a yellowish-brown color, being careful not to
break them whilst frying ; when done drain them upon a cloth,
and serve either upon a napkin or with fried parsley.

405. A Family French Salad for the Summer. I can as-
sure you that, when in France during the hot weather, I used
to enjoy the following salads immensely, having them usually
twice a week for my dinner ; they are not only wholesome, but
cheap and quickly done. Cut up a pound of cold beef into
thin slices, which put into a salad-bowl with about half a pound
of white fresh lettuce, cut into pieces similar to the beef, season
over with a good teaspoonful of salt, half that quantity of pep-
per, two spoonfuls of vinegar, and four of good salad oil, stir all
together lightly with a fork and spoon, and when well mixed it
is ready to serve.

For a change, cabbage-lettuce may be used, or, if in season,
a little endive (well washed), or a little celery, or a few gher-
kins ; also, to vary the seasoning, a little chopped tarragon and
chervil, chopped eschalots, or a little scraped garlic, if approved
of, but all in proportion, and used with moderation. White
haricot beans are also excellent with it.

406. Potatoes and Meat Salad. Proceed as in the last, but

168 ENTREES.

omitting the lettuce ; if any cold potatoes remain from a pre-
vious dinner, peel and cut them in halves if small, but in
quarters if large, and then into pieces the size of a shilling but
four times the thickness ; put them into a salad-bowl with the
meat, seasoning as before, but using more oil and vinegar, and
adding a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. A small quantity of
any description of pickles might be added to this salad, as also
some anchovies or olives. The remains of any fowls, turkey,
cold veal, lamb, or even mutton, may be mixed in salads, but,
according to our habits, many persons would fancy they were
not nutritious ; of that I can assure them to the contrary.*

407. Ox-Kidneys. Cut a nice fresh ox-kidney into slices,
each being about the size of a half-crown piece, but double the
thickness (avoiding the white part, or root, which is tough and
indigestible), then put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-
pan upon the fire, and when very hot but not black, put in the
pieces of kidney, stirring them round with a wooden spoon three
minutes over a brisk fire ; then add, for each pound weight of
kidney, half a tablespoonful of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt,
half the quantity of pepper, and a little sugar, moisten with a
gill of water and half a glass of sherry, add a little browning if
handy, and let simmer gently for five minutes, stirring them
round occasionally ; if too thick, add a few drops more of water,
the same should be sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of
the spoon, pour them out upon your dish, and serve very hot.
Broth might be used instead of water if convenient, but then
the seasoning should be a little diminished, a little chopped es-
chalot, parsley, or a few mushrooms, would be an improve-
ment.

By cutting an ox-kidney lengthwise in three slices, it might
be broiled or sauted ; if for gentlemen, season rather highly,
but if ladies are to be the partakers, season more moderately ;
a little gravy may be served with it, to which you have added
a little catsup ; the root of the kidney must not be cut away in
this case, although not eatable. Ox-kidneys are also an ex-
cellent addition to beef-steak puddings and pies.

* The quantity of the meat and vegetable should pretty equally balance with
each other; after such a meal, a man's appetite is perfectly satisfied, and he is
ready for an afternoon's work if required. It also does not require the aid of any
fire, which we so ungratefully abhor in hot weather. Mr. B. very much approves
of it once a week in summer.

ENTREES. 169

408. Ox-Feet or Coto-Heels are very nutritious, especially
when well boiled ; they may be served in either of the methods
directed for tripe, or with a plain parsley-and-butter sauce, to
which, for a change, the juice of a lemon or a drop of vinegar
may be added. Should any be left from the first day's dinner,
it may be served a la Lyonnaise, as directed for cold tripe.

409. Remains of Ox- Tongue. The remains of a tongue from
a previous dinner may be again served thus : Cut it into thin
slices, put a small piece of butter into a frying-pan, lay the pieces
of tongue over, which warm a few minutes in a saute-pan,
and serve with veal or fowl, if any ; when at home alone, I
frequently have it with mashed potatoes under, it makes a very
good dish for luncheon. The pieces of tongue might also be
egged and bread-crumbed previous to cooking as above, and
served with a plain gravy, or any sharp sauce. (See Sauces.)
Or should you have any tongue, and veal or beef remaining,
sprinkle a little chopped eschalots at the bottom of a pie-dish, lay
a layer of meat over, season with a little salt, pepper, and
chopped parsley, then a layer of the tongue ; have some yellow-
ish crusts of bread grated, a teaspoonful of which sprinkle over
the tongue, then again a layer of the meat, proceeding thus
until the dish is nearly full, when sprinkle more of the brown
bread-crumbs over the top, placing a small piece of butter here
and there ; pour in two wineglassfuls of water, set it in a warm
oven half an hour, and serve very hot. Or instead of bread-
crumbs, make a little good mashed potatoes, which spread over
it smoothly with a spoon or knife, bake half an hour in a warm
oven, and serve.

Should the remains of a tongue be but small, and if well
pickled and boiled, the root and all would be excellent hi any
kind of beef, lamb, mutton, veal, or pork, hashed, or in pies or
puddings made from those meats.

410. Remains of Salt Beef. The remains of salt beef are
very excellent, served in the few following ways, no matter from
what joint, or from what part of the joint : cut as large and thin
slices as possible, dip each slice into some vinegar from mixed
pickles, previously poured upon a plate in small quantities ; lay

170 ENTREES.

about a pound of the meat thus prepared upon a flat dish, pour
a wineglassful of water over, warm it through in the oven, or
before a small fire, and serve. Another way 'is, after having
dipped the beef in pickles, roll them in flour and proceed as
above, adding double the quantity of water. Another way is
to saut the slices with a little butter in a frying-pan, have
ready some nice mashed potatoes very hot, lay the beef over,
and serve.

Fricandeau of Veal. This is a very favorite dish of mine. It is
generally considered an expensive one, but the way in which I do it, it is
not so ; besides which, it gives a nice piece of veal at table, when a fillet
would be too large. I proceed to prepare it thus :

411. Having the fillet prepared with the bone out as if for
roasting, I lay it on a board with the skin side downwards, and
then remove (not cutting it) that part of the outside which is
separated from the thick fleshy part (in France called " la noix")
of the fillet by a skin ; I then place my hand on the top of the
thick part, and cut away two thirds of it, leaving an inch to an
inch and a half of flesh for the fillet. I then take a chopper
dipped in cold water, and beat the veal with the flat part, so as
to make it of an equal thickness ; I then lard it (see Larding).
You may not succeed very well the first or second time, but now
I am quite an artist in larding, as is also my cook, whom I
taught, it being so much like sewing. But should you not be
able to manage it, you must send it to the poulterer. The re-
mains make an excellent fillet for another day's dinner. Having
proceeded thus far, I then cook it in the following manner :

412. I take a stewpan of a convenient size, and lay on the
bottom six or eight slices of bacon, and place the fricandeau on
them ; I then take two onions, two small carrots cut in slanting
pieces, which place round it ; I then make a bouquet of ten
sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two of bay-leaf, which I put in
with two cloves, half a blade of mace, and about a pint of broth
or water, so as not to cover the larding ; if no broth, use water
and a teaspoonful of salt, cover it with a sheet of buttered
paper, set it on a moderate fire ; when on the point of boiling,
put it in a slack oven, where let it remain for two or three
hours ; be careful every twenty minutes to moisten or baste the
ft-icandeau with the gravy which is in the stewpan ; the slower

ENTREES. 171

it is done the better ; ten minutes before it is removed from the
oven, take off the paper, in order that the top may obtain a nice
yellow color ; if tjie oven should not be hot enough, place live
coals on the lid of the stewpan until done, try also if it is tender
with a pointed knife.

This dish ought to be carved with a spoon, being so tender ; but I prefer
to cut it with a very sharp knife, as it is more inviting in appearance.
If you have no oven ready, stew gently on a hot plate, or by the side
of the stove, with, the lid on and live coals on the top. If you let it burn
by any neglect or accident, do not tell your friends that I gave you the
receipt, as it would eat so very bad, and I should lose my good name.
It can be served with any sauce or puree, but the one I prefer is as fol-
lows : Take the gravy from the stewpan, which ought to be about half a
pint, if not so much add water, pass it through a fine sieve into a basin,
remove the fat from the top, put it into a small stewpan, reduce it
a little to a demi-glaze, mix half a teaspoonful of arrow-root in a cup,
with a little water, put it in the gravy, boil two minutes ; it ought to be
of a bright yellow color, and transparent ; the fricandeau should be
served with gravy under it. The following purees are excellent to serve
with it : sorrel, endive, peas, beans, artichokes, and spinach ; tomato,
mushroom, and cucumber sauces, (fee. If a piece of udder can be pro-
cured, stew it with the fricandeau, and serve it in the same dish. This
receipt will weU repay the trouble attending it. The following is very
good, and more simple.

413. Fricandeau Bourgeoise, in its Gravy. Cut as before
from the fillet, cut the bacon the same as for the neck, and laid
with about thirty large pieces, but in a slanting direction, leav-
ing but little of the bacon to be seen, as the object is to give all
the advantage of the bacon to the meat ; put it into a stewpan
with a quarter of a pound of butter, a quarter of an ounce of salt,
and one tenth of that of pepper; set it on the fire for five
minutes, turn it with a fork round and round, then rake some
cinders over the coals or charcoal so as to make it go slow, and
until it becomes of a nice yellow color; then add a gill of
water, a bay-leaf, half an onion, stew until quite tender, turning
it over and over now and then ; put it on a dish, skim the fat
off the gravy, pour it over, and serve. It may also be served
thus : by throwing into the stewpan about twenty mushrooms,
well washed about ten minutes before serving ; if the gravy is
too thin, add a little arrow-root, and serve : it can also be served
with the sauces named in the former Receipt. Nothing is

172 ENTREES.

nicer cold than this ; if required to be re-warmed, put it into a
little broth or warm water, and heat slowly.

414. Coifs Liver saute. Cut it into slices, put a little but-
ter in the saute- or frying-pan, when melted, lay the liver
in season with salt, pepper, a teaspoonful of chopped eschalot,
parsley, and grated nutmeg, saute on a sharp fire, when rather
brown on both sides dredge a tablespoonful of French vinegar, or
a glass of wine, stir it well, and boil for a few minutes ; dish the
liver in crowns ; if the sauce is too pale, add a little mushroom
catsup or coloring, and it had better be too thin than too thick ;
taste if well seasoned, and serve : the above is for about two
pounds of liver.

415. Coifs Liver, English way. Cut the liver into thin
slices, dip them in flour, and put in a saute or frying-pan in
which some slices of bacon have been previously cooked, and
have left sufficient fat in it ; saute the liver until quite brown
and rather crisp, when take out and place it upon a dish with
the bacon, then dredge a spoonful of flour in the pan, or
enough to absorb all the fat in it, then add a little broth or
water so as to make it a thinnish sauce, season it, and add two
spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce or mushroom catsup. If the above
is nicely done, and the pieces cut the size of cutlets, it will
make a nice entree for an ordinary dinner. It should be
served immediately, and very hot.

416. Coifs Liver, dry. The same may be served dry with
the bacon, or with any sharp sauce.

41 Y. Calfs Heart, roasted. Proceed exactly the same as
for ox's heart, only this being more delicate and smaller requires
less time to roast, from half an hour to one hour, depending on
the size ; they may also be cut in slices and sauted like the
liver above ; or, by having four for a large dish they may be
dressed exactly like the liver (No. 415), but white instead of
brown ; stuff them and saute white in butter, which depends
on a slow fire, and, adding the flour, just give a few turns and
add the broth immediately, then the onions and mushrooms,

ENTREES. 173

season as described in the liver, stew very gently for one hour,
take out the hearts, skim off the fat, let it be thickish, boil
down a little if required, prepare two yolks of eggs well beaten,
with a quarter of a gill of milk, broth, or water, which pour
into the same, stir quick for half a minute, add the juic3 of
half a lemon, trim the hearts, dish them in a dish with the
points upwards, pour the sauce over, and serve.

418. Roast Sweetbreads. Take the sweetbreads and lay
them in water at blood-heat, to disgorge, for three to four
hours ; then blanch them for two minutes in boiling water, put
them into a stewpan with a few slices of carrot, onions, turnip,
a little parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, six peppercorns, a blade of
mace, and a small piece of bacon, cover over with a little broth
or water, and let it boil for twenty minutes ; take them out and
dry them in a cloth, egg and bread-crumb them, tie them on a
spit, and roast a nice brown color for ten to fifteen minutes ; or
they may be browned in an oven, or fried in very hot lard for
ten minutes, in which case they should stew a little longer ;
they may be served with plain gravy and a piece of toasted
bread under, or a little melted butter and some Harvey's,
Reading, or Soyer's sauce, and a little catsup added to it, boiled
arid poured round it ; or with any of the sauces fricandeau.
The heart-bread being generally so expensive, I seldom make
use of it, but it may be blanched, larded, cooked, and served
like the fricandeau, diminishing the larding and cooking ac-
cording to the size of the bread, or it may be dressed as above,
or, if a large throat-bread, it may be larded.

419. Sweetbreads saute. Blanch two throat-sweetbreads as
in the preceding receipt, cut them in slices, put some butter in
a frying-pan, and melt ; then put in the sweet-bread, season
over with salt, pepper, juice of a lemon, parsley, and bay-leaf;
turn them until done, and serve very hot, with maitre d'hotel
sauce over.

420. Another way. Prepare as above ; add a little flour
and a gill of broth, a few raw mushrooms, stir continually to
prevent burning, add a few spoonfuls of cream and serve ; if

1*74 ENTREES.

any remain, do them au gratin, that is, put them in a pie-dish
or flat plated dish, brown, bread-crumb over, add a little broth,
put into an oven, and, when very hot, serve.

421. Veal Cutlets (old English method}. See No. 157.

422. Veal Cutlets aux Fines Herbes. Cut from the neck
the same as you would from mutton, only of course larger ;
sprinkle with salt, pepper, and chopped eschalot, set them on a
gridiron and broil like common chops, serve plain, or rub a
little maitre d'hotel butter over them, set in a hot place for a
few moments, and serve. They may also be sauted, by putting
them into a saute-pan and saute until a nice color, take them
out and put in the pan a spoonful of chopped onions, parsley,
and mushrooms (if handy), stir until done, then add a tea-
spoonful of flour ; when it is a little brown, add half a pint of
water, two spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce and one of vinegar, stir
well round, dish up the cutlets, sauce over and serve. They
may also be larded like the fricandeau, and served in the same
way, and with the like sauces, only less time in cooking.

423. Veal Cutlets en papillate. Prepare as the last, and
put them in a pie-dish and pour the sauce over, and let them
remain until cold ; then cut a sheet of foolscap paper in the
shape of a heart, and oil or butter it ; lay one of the cutlets
with a little of the sauce on one half of the paper, turn the
other half over, then turn and plait the edges of the paper
over, beginning at the top of the heart and finishing with an
extra twist at the bottom, which will cause the sauce to remain
in it ; broil slowly on a gridiron for twenty minutes on a very
slow fire, or place it in the oven for that time, and serve.

424. Calf's Ears stewed. If you make mock turtle with
half a calf's head, you may serve the ear ; after having boiled the
head as for mock turtle, cut out the ear (it should weigh about
half a pound), lay it down on a board and make a few incisions
through the thin gristly part about one inch long ; should it
require a little more doing, put it in the soup ; when done,

ENTREES. 175

stand it on the dish in which you intend to serve it, turn the
top of the ear over outside, so that it forms a round ; if any
brain to spare, put a piece in the centre, sauce over when very-
hot with parsley and butter, tomato, or any sharp sauce, arid
serve ; or, instead of the brain, veal stuffing or forcemeat may
be used ; egg all over, bread-crumb, put in an oven until very
hot and a nice yellow color, dish and serve with plain gravy :
or it may be served with any sauce or ragout.

425. Made Dish from Joints that have been previously
served. (If from braised veal, with vegetables.) Cut it into
slices about a quarter of an inch in thickness, then put the
remainder, vegetables and gravy, if any, in a pan ; if not, with
water and a piece of glaze ; season with a little salt, pepper,
sugar, a bay-leaf, and the juice of a quarter of a lemon, simmer
gently for twenty minutes on a slow fire, dish the fillets in the
form of a crown, lay the vegetables in the middle, pour gravy
over, and serve. Or, what remains, cut into very small dice,
leave none on the bones, put in a pan, shake a little flour over,
season with a little salt, pepper, sugar, bay-leaf, and the juice
of a quarter of a lemon, then moisten it with milk sufficient to
make a sauce, warm it for ten minutes, add half an ounce of
butter, stir it well, and serve very hot : or, if you prefer it
brown, leave out the milk and throw a few chopped mushrooms
and eschalots in, and moisten with a little water, to which add
a few drops of browning, or a little catsup ; it ought never to
be too thick. Poached eggs may be served with these.

426. Calf's Brains fried. Prepare them as for calf's head ;
cut them in pieces of about two inches square, dip them into
batter, and fry them immersed in fat ; serve with fried parsley.

427. Calf's Brains a la Maitre d* Hotel. Prepare the brain
as before, warm six spoonfuls of melted butter ; when hot, add
one ounce of maitre d'hotel butter, and, when melted, pour it
over.

428. Stewed Calfs Liver. Choose a nice fat one rather

176 ENTREES.

white in. color, lard it through with bacon, put one quarter of a
pound of butter in a pan, when melted add a tablespoonful of
flour, keep stirring until a nice yellow color, then put in the
whole of the liver, turn round now and then until it is a little
firm, then add a pint of broth or water, and a glass of any kind
of wine, a bouquet of parsley, thyme, bay-leaves, a little salt,
pepper, sugar, and thirty button onions, simmer one hour ; take
the fat off and the bouquet out, dish the liver with the onions
around it, reduce the sauce, so that it adheres lightly to the
back of the spoon, sauce over, and serve. Any vegetables may
be used, as carrots, turnips, peas, haricots ; arid if a little gela-
tine or isinglass is added to the sauce, and the liver with the
sauce only put into a round basin and pressed down and left
until cold, it will make a nice dish for supper, lunch, or break-
fast. If required to be re-warmed, cut it into slices, put it in a
pan, with a drop of water added to the gravy.

429. Sheep's Brains. Proceed as for calf's brains : these
being smaller do not require so long to cook ; though very
good, they are not so delicate as calf's brains.

430. Sheep's Kidneys. For a small dish procure six fresh
ones, take off the thin skin which covers them, and cut them
into slices, put in a saute-pan one ounce of butter, when melted
and nearly brown, add the kidneys, with half a teaspoonful of
salt, one quarter ditto of pepper, half a tablespoonful of flour,
mix well together, add half a wine-glass of sherry and a gill of
broth, simmer for a few minutes, and serve very hot ; a nice
crisp toast placed under them is an improvement ; also, a
few raw mushrooms, cut in slices, added when being sauted,
are excellent. For broiled kidneys, see Breakfast. . They can
also be cut in half and cooked the same, and dished in a crown
on a border of mashed potatoes.

431. Sheep's Feet or Trotters. Previous to visiting the Conti-
nent, I had quite a dislike to the unfortunate Pied de Mouton, whose
blackish appearance in stall and basket seemed to be intended to satisfy
the ravenous Appetites of the gentlemen with the slouched hat. But I
must say since I have tasted them in France, cooked a la poulette, I

ENTREES. 177

have become of quite another opinion, and I have prepared them at
home thus :

I get a dozen of them from the tripe-butcher, all cleaned and
ready, and beg of him to extract the long bone from them. I
put a quarter of a pound of beef or mutton suet in a stewpan,
with two onions and one carrot sliced, two bay-leaves, two
sprigs of thyme, one ounce of salt, a quarter of an ounce of
pepper, put on the fire, and cook five minutes ; add two table-
spoonfuls of flour, and stir it round ; add two quarts and a half
of water, then put in the feet, stir till boiling, simmer for nearly
three hours, or until the feet are perfectly tender, when done,
take them out, and lay on sieve, take a quarter of a pound of
fresh butter, a teaspoonful of salt, the same of flour, a quarter
of one of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, the juice of a lemon,
mix all these well together on a plate with the back of a spoon }
put the feet with a gill of milk in a stewpan on the fire, when
very hot, put in the butter, stir continually till melted, having
previously well mixed two yolks of eggs with five tablespoonfuls
of milk or cream, which put in the stewpan, keep moving the
pan round over the fire continually for one minute, serve in a
very hot dish with croutons of fried bread cut in triangular
pieces round the dish. The stock may be used for any puree
or thick soup.

432. French Ragout of Mutton. Take about two pounds
of the scrag of the neck, breast, chump, or any other part, with
as little fat as possible, cut it into pieces of about two inches
square, put into a pan two ounces of butter, or good fat, when
melted, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir with a wooden spoon
till forming a brownish roux, add the meat, and stir it round for
twenty minutes, add a little water, but not enough to cover the
meat, one saltspoonful of pepper, four ditto of salt, and four
ditto of sugar, a bouquet of six sprigs of parsley, stir till boiling,
set it to simmer. Having previously peeled a few turnips, cut
in large dice of one inch square about thirty pieces, put some
fat in a frying-pan, and fry the turnips until rather brown, take
them out, and put them in a stewpan with the meat when it is
done, which will be in about one hour from the time it was put
on ; when ready to serve, take out the meat and turnips, squeeze
the bouquet, which throw away, skim off the fat, if too thick,

178 ENTREES.

add a little broth or water, or, if too thin, boil it a little more,
dish it up by placing the pieces in a circle and the turnips in
the centre, sauce over, and serve very hot if not it is spoilt.
For those that like it, a small piece of scraped garlic may be
added. Onions, carrots, peas, &c., may be used in place of the
turnips.

This is a very favorite dish in France ; I learnt it from an old French
emigre, who used to visit us about ten years since. When I have com-
pany, I use the chops of the neck, dress them in a crown, placing the
vegetables in the centre ; I find them very much liked. I have at some
houses partaken of harico-mutton which has been tolerably good, but
nothing in flavor to this plan. If there is any left, it is good warmed
again, or even cold.

433. Irish Stew. Cut up about two pounds of the neck of
the mutton into small cutlets, which put into a proper sized
stewpan with some of the fat of the mutton, season with three
spoonfuls of salt, half an ounce of pepper, the same of sugar, six
middle-sized onions, a quart of water ; set them to boil and sim-
mer for half an hour, then add six middling-sized potatoes, cut
therein halves or quarters, stir it together, and let it stew gently
for about one hour longer ; if too fat remove it from the top,
but if well done the potatoes would absorb all, and eat very
delicate ; any other part of the mutton may be served in the

same way. I hope dearest , that you will not blame my

apparent common taste in saying that I am fond of an Irish
stew. I always recommend it to my friends ; I often add a bay-
leaf to it, which varies the flavor.

LETTER No. XIII.

DEAREST ELOISE, I certainly here must avail myself of M. Soyer's
kind permission by taking from his ' Gastronomic Regenerator' a very
simple receipt, it is true, but one which, in my estimation, has a great
deal more merit than that of a sumptuous dish a new mutton chop ;
yes, dearest, that is all. Many will very likely laugh at me, and think
I am joking to take notice of a dish of such trifling importance, but, in-
deed, I assure you that I am far from that, because I have tried it for
my dinner to-day, and in my opinion it is as far superior to the other as
silver is to copper ; and it was only in an enlightened era of wonders
like ours that such a novelty in the culinary department could have

ENTREES. 179

been produced ; where steam, gas, railways, electric light; suspended
bridges, which seem to fly like zephyrs across the bosom of our mighty,
wealthy, old Father Thames, and the subterranean promenade under
his gutta-percha bed, where, as the French say, the fishes from their
windows make faces at the English while walking below, as well as (and
more wonderful still) the electric telegraph, which, even more freely
than free-trade itself, carries like lightning the flashes of the genius of a
Cobden from our great commercial town of Manchester to Printing-
house square and various offices the sparks of a speech, which, if prin-
ters were careless, might set the paper on fire, by acquainting the me-
tropolis not only of his love for freedom, but of his enthusiastic action,
motion, commotion, and almost his thoughts ; even the cheerings of the
convives are actually in print, and read with the greatest anxiety by the
multitude in town, while the report of the last and most powerful line
just put to press is still roaring with echo throughout the vast cupola
of the Free Trade Hall as well as hi the ears of thousands of guests
present who have been favored by partaking of the monster banquet ;
and as well, but not so wonderful, the invention, insurrection, and demo-
lition of the Chartists the last effected by special order and special
constables ; the Satanic bottle, double sight, and etherienne suspension
of the inimitable Robert le Diable, by mistake called Rohert Houdin ;
Banvard's Yankee cabinet picture, 3000 miles long, out of which 2999
and three quarters are out of sight ; more so than all, the discovery of
rocky dust, called gold, in the barbarian land of California, where the
humble and convalescent potato would be worth its weight of the pre-
cious metal, a loaf of bread three times as much, and a basin of poor
man's soup a guinea instead of a penny as here. Have we not also heard
of the great sea serpent, which a very serious American, who appears
to have been in company with him, says that he was so tarnation long,
that whilst engaged in dining out upon 4000 or 5000 turtles in Hon-
duras, the end of his tail was at the same time hunting the white bear
in the crystallized mountains of the North Pole for his supper, being
something of an epicure, and consequently fond of a change ? These,
dearest, are FACTS that no one can deny, " I guess ;" and still it was to be
among all these marvellous wonders that the innovation of a new mutton
chop should emanate from the brain of a simple individual, while, for
a century previous, the ancestors of our great grandfathers were, as we
were till the present day, often obliged to satisfy their voracious appe-
tite with a fat and clumsy mutton chop. Even now, dear, you will
hardly be able to comprehend the meaning of my enthusiasm for this
simple innovation : it is then for its great simplicity and cheapness, and
that if in general use (as I sincerely hope it will be), thousands will be
able to partake of it and enjoy it, and probably will keep a friendly re-
membrance of the name of its inventor, because any one who invents, or
tries so to do, attempts to conquer the greatest difficulty to obtain fame
and wealth, and which by others is always envied aud tried to be sur-
passed ; such is the world. While here, the humble, unassuming, disin-
terested inventor of the said mutton chop will not even have the honor
of opposition, though he may be copied. Believe me, dearest, that is
the only cause of my admiration. Now for this wonder.

180 ENTREES.

434. Soyer's New Mutton Chop. Trim a middling-sized
saddle of mutton, which cut into chops* half an inch in thick-
ness with a saw, without at all making use of a knife (the saw-
ing them off jagging the meat and causing them to eat more
tender), then trim them to the shape represented in the draw-
ing, season well with salt and pepper, place them upon a grid-
iron over a sharp fire, turning them three or four times ; they
would require ten minutes cooking ; when done, dress them
upon a hot dish, spread a small piece of butter over each (if ap-
proved of), and serve : by adding half a tablespoonful of
Soyer's Gentlemen's or Ladies' Sauce to each chop when serv-
ing, and turning it over two or three times, produces an excel-
lent entree ; the bone keeping the gravy in whilst cooking, it
is a very great advantage to have chops cut after the above
method. At home, when I have a saddle of mutton, I usually
cut two or three such chops, which I broil, rub maitre d'hotel
butter over, and serve with fried potatoes round, using the re-
mainder of the saddle the next day for a joint. The above are
also very excellent, well seasoned and dipped into egg and
bread-crumbs previous to broiling. Lamb chops may be cut
precisely the same, but require a few minutes less broiling.

You must remark that, by this plan, the fat and lean are better di-
vided, and you can enjoy both ; whilst the other is a lump of meat near
the bone and fat at the other end, which partly melts in cooking, and
is often burnt by the flame it makes ; the new one not being divided at
the bone, keeps the gravy in admirably. If well sawed it should not
weigh more than the ordinary one, being about half the thickness. Do
try them, and let me know your opinion.

Ever yours, HORTENSE.

ENTREES. 181

LETTER No. XIV.

DEAR HOIITENSE, Yours of last night was received at our supper-
table, which was surrounded by a few of our best friends, and I need
not tell you the merriment it has created respecting your fantastic ideas
of this age of wonders. A very sedate old gentleman, who happened
to have met you at Mr. H.'s party about a week or two ago, and wished
to be very courteous to you, and perhaps you did not notice his compli-
ments, not only would he not give a smile to our hearty laugh, but ac-
tually swore that such comical nonsense was very dangerous to expose
before the public, and especially if we intended to give publicity to it
with the Receipts, the last of which he very much approved of. But
respecting your fun on the review of our century, " A woman," said
he, " ought never to interfere with politics !" " Politics !" we all ex-
claimed, " where do you see anything political in it ?" " In almost
every word," replied he. " But in what part ?" said we ; " explain your-
self." Unfortunately our hero stuttered very much. " Now, it-it-it is not
one of-of-of you here, perhaps, who-who-who a-a-a-ve been in ann-y-pu-
pu-public office like me in ma-ma-my youth. I was cla-cla-cla-clerk of
the second cla-cla-clerk of the first cla-cla-cla-clerk of the private secre-
tary's cla-cla-cla-clerk of the Home of-of-of " Here, dear, we all

burst out laughing, which made the old gentleman so mad that he
rushed from the room into the passage, to the street-door, and out of
the house, without his hat, Welsh wig, great coat, and umbrella, while
the servant had a regular race to get hold of him. She at last found
him talking to himself under one of our willow-trees in the garden,
coming back for his tackle with his two hands over his red wig, and his
thick head underneath. Being a wet night, after inquiring of the ser-
vant what he had said to her " Ma-ma-ma-rie," said he, " you are a ve-
ve-ve-very good girl indeed, very good girl, and I-I-I-I am ve-ve-ve-very
sorry I have no money with me to gi-gi-gi-gi-give you something for
your trouble, especially as you will ne-ne-ne-never see me here again,
no, ne-ne-never." " Never mind, sir, about the money," said she to him,
" I am no more disappointed than usual. Good night, sir." " Mary,
you are a ve-ve-very sau-saucy huzzy, a ve-very saucy huzzy," was his
answer. He then gradually disappeared in the fog. In a few seconds
after, she heard some one sneezing most fearfully in the direction he
was gone, which she believed to be our stuttering friend. So, you see,
dear, there is quite an event on a mutton chop. But let me tell you
that, though your receipt came rather late, we still had some for sup-
per, and very good they were ; every one was delighted with them ; in
fact, we did not eat hardly anything else, being so comically introduced
to us. I had them brought up at three different times broiling hot from
the gridiron. I made twelve chops out of a middle-sized saddle of
mutton, weighing about seven pounds : is that right ? and I have about
three pounds of chump remaining, which, of course, I intend making
broth, Irish stew, or pies with. But, dearest, let us go through the
remainder of the Receipts without any more interruption.

My husband begs to be kindly remembered to you both. Ever yours,

ELOISE.

182

ENTREES.

435. Mutton Cutlets. Trim a neck of mutton by cutting
away the scrag and sawing off three inches of the rib-bone,
then cut about ten cutlets out of the neck, shape them by
chopping off the thick part of the chine-bone, beat them flat to
about a quarter of an inch in thickness with a cutlet-chopper,
dipped in cold water, detach an inch of fat from the top of the
rib-bone, and trim it like the following cut, season with a little

ENTREES. 183

salt and pepper, then well beat up one egg, dip a, brush into
it, and rub it lightly over the chop, dip it into bread-crumbs,
form it into shape again, and dress in the following ways :

Put two ounces of butter into a saute-pan or very clean ome-
lette-pan, melt it, and put the cutlets in ; put it on the fire for
five minutes till it is of a nice yellow color ; turn them, let them
remain four minutes longer, try if they are done by pressing
with the finger, they ought to be firm and full of gravy ; lay
them on a clean cloth, and dress them in the form of a crown,
that is, by keeping the thick part at the bottom, and the scraped
part of the bone at the top, and each one resting half-way on
the other. Every dish of cutlets must be served thus.

436. Cutlets with Mushrooms. If for ten or twelve cutlets
take about twenty fresh mushrooms, cut off the tails, wash
them, and dry on a cloth, put two pats of butter in a stewpan,
half a gill of water, the juice of a lemon, a little salt and pep-
per, set on the fire ; boil for a few minutes, then add two table-
spoonfuls of white sauce, when very hot add a liaison of the
yolk of an egg made as follows :

Put the yolk in a cup, and mix well with two tablespoonfuls
of milk, stir well for one minute, put it in the middle of your
pan, if no white sauce, add a little milk to the mushrooms, and
mix a little flour with half a pat of butter, and put it in, keep
stirring until boiling ; dish up the cutlets, add the liaison, and
serve ; or still plainer, take the same number of mushrooms,
wash well, cut in thin slices, put into a stewpan, with two pats
of butter, half a teaspoonful of flour, a little salt and pepper, the
juice of a lemon, and a little water ; stew gently for ten minutes,
serve, pouring the sauce over, or in the middle of the cutlets.

They can be served as cutlets a la jardiniere, with peas, with
tomatoes, with artichokes, with spinach, a la poiverade, a la
sauce piquante, with Brussels sprouts, and a la Soubise.

437. Cutlets a la Maitre d 1 Hotel. When the cutlets are
done, dish them up, put two ounces of maitre d'hotel butter in
a clean sautfe-pan, keep it moving until melted : put two spoon-
fuls of cream when very hot, pour over, and serve with fried
potatoes in the middle.

184 ENTREES.

438. Cutlets, plainer way. Cut them from the neck, beat
them down roughly without trimming, put them on the grid-
iron, when warm through, add salt, pepper, and very fine chopped
onions, turn several times, they will take about ten minutes
broiling ; dish very hot, and serve. They may also be served
on very white mashed potatoes.

439. Sheep's Tongue, Demi- Glaze. For one dish, take six,
put them in water to disgorge, then dry them, put them in a
stewpan with two onions, half a large carrot, a bouquet of two
bay-leaves, one sprig of thyme, a quart of broth if handy, or
water, half a spoonful of salt, put them on to boil, and sim-
mer for two hours till done ; try if tender with a pointed knife,
if so take them out, skin them, trim out all the roots, cut the
tongue in two, lengthwise, giving it a little of the shape of cut-
lets, skim the fat from the stock, reduce the whole or part to a
demi-glaze, put your pieces on a dish, when ready to serve,
make a thin roll of mashed potatoes, and dish them round it,
add a little sugar to the demi-glaze, and a small piece of butter,
stir round till melted, add the juice of half a lemon, pour boil-
ing hot over the tongue, the sauce ought to adhere thickly to
the back of the spoon. Observe, dear, how cheaply this dish
may be procured, and I assure you it is very excellent : I have
tried it with almost all the sauces I have described for cutlets,
and have found it good with all ; they are also very good in
papillote, like veal cutlets.

440. Sheep's Hearts. Proceed exactly as with the calf's
heart, only diminish the time of cooking in proportion to the
size, about thirty minutes will be sufficient ; serve with any
kind of sharp sauce or any ragout of vegetables.

DISHES WITH THE REMAINS OF LAMB.

441. Mince Lamb. (See Veal.) Serve with poached eggs
over.

442. Remains of roast or boiled Lamb with Peas.. Cut up

ENTREES. 1 85

about two pounds, bones included, in rather small pieces, put
into a convenient-sized stewpan, add to it two teaspoonfuls of
flour, one of chopped onions, one of salt, a quarter ditto of pep-
per, half a pint of water, stir gently until near boiling, add one
bay-leaf, and one pint of very green peas already boiled, sim-
mer and serve. Half an hour is sufficient to prepare this dish ;
peas left from a previous day can be used, also cauliflower if
not too much broken, and gently simmered, also a few mush-
rooms, or if no vegetables, add a little liaison, and the juice of
half a lemon.

443. Lamb's Feet are much more delicate than sheep's
trotters, but they are cooked and dressed the same, only in less
time. If there are any left cold, cut them in two, put them in
a basin, pour over a glass of vinegar, half of ditto of oil, one
onion sliced, salt, pepper, fry them for twenty minutes, dip each
piece in a batter, and fry a nice yellow color in fat ; serve on a
napkin.

444. LamVs Heart. Six will make a nice dish ; stuff like
calf's heart, only adding to it some bits of ham or red tongue ;
stew and serve with any kind of sauce.

445. Lamb Cutlets. Ten cutlets would be sufficient for a
dish, and might be cut from one neck, as described for mutton
cutlets (page 182), but leaving them as large as possible ; that
is, about one third less than the mutton, season them lightly
with salt and pepper, egg and bread-crumb them over, after-
wards beating them gently with a knife, to put them again
into shape ; then have a little clarified butter upon a plate, into
which dip each cutlet separately, afterwards throwing them into
bread-crumbs, giving them another coat, and beat again. Then
if wanted of a very nice color, put four spoonfuls of salad oil into
a saute-pan, lay in the cutlets and set them over a sharp fire,
turning when required, six or eight minutes would be sufficient
to do them nicely ; when done, lay them upon a cloth a moment
to drain, glaze, and dish them in crown upon your dish, and
serve with cucumbers stewed in the centre.

Lamb cutlets may also be served with stewed peas, French

186 ENTREES.

beans, spinach, asparagus points, sauce jardiniere, reforme,
poiverade, piquante, or maitre d'hotel, which will be found in
the series of sauces, or lamb cutlets may be broiled instead
of fried, or served a la Maintenon, as directed for veal cut-
lets.

446. Lamb Chops. Select a fine loin of lamb with the
kidney in it, trim off the flap, and with a very sharp knife cut
your chops from half to three quarters of an inch in thickness,
cutting about eight chops from the loin, three of which should
have a piece of the kidney attached. I also cut two chops
from the chump, which are very excellent eating, although
clumsier in shape. Lay three of them upon a gridiron over a
rather brisk but very clear fire, for if smoky it would entirely
spoil the look and flavor of the lamb ; and when just warmed
through, season upon each side with a teaspoonful of salt, and
a quarter of that quantity of pepper ; broil of a nice yellow
color, and serve with fried parsley over if convenient. Or lay
some nice mashed potatoes upon your dish, and serve the chops
upon it.

447. Lamb Chops in paper, with fine herbs. Cut a piece
of foolscap paper in the shape of a heart (and sufficiently large
to fold a lamb chop in), rub a little oil over the paper, then
season the chop with a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, one
of chopped parsley, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg,
wrap the chop in the paper, which plait down at the edges, lay
it upon a gridiron over a slow fire, turning it frequently ; it will
take about twenty minutes to broil properly, when done serve
in the paper very hot.

448. Lamb Chop saute. Put a piece of butter into a clean
saute- or frying-pan, and when melted lay in a chop rather
highly seasoned with pepper and salt ; fry it until thoroughly
done and but lightly browned, and serve. Should gravy be
required, pour off the greater part of the fat, and then stir in
half a tablespoonful of flour, add a gill of broth or water, and
a little coloring ; stir with a wooden spoon, boiling five minutes,
finish with an ounce of fresh butter and the juice of half a

ENTREES. 187

lemon ; shake the pan over the fire until the sauce becomes
rather thick, when pour over and serve.

449. Pork Cutlets. Choose a small neck, cut eight cutlets
out of it of the same shape as the mutton, only leaving a little
more fat on it, season, egg and bread-crumb, fry in pan, serve
with either sauces Robert, poiverade, piquante, tartare.

450. Pork Cutlets with Pickle. Saute, broil or fry, the
chops, as in the preceding ; make about a gill of melted but-
ter, add to it two tablespoonfuls of liquor of piccalilly, and six
or eight pieces of the pickle cut small ; when very hot put on
your dish, and dress your cutlets over, or if for a large dish,
dress cutlets in a crown, and sauce in the middle.

451. Pork Cutlets saute. Cut six or eight good-sized cut-
lets from the neck of the same shape as the mutton, lay them
in a buttered saute-pan, season well with pepper and salt, place
over the fire ; when done lay them upon a plate, pour some of
the fat from the saute-pan, add a good tablespoonful of chop-
ped onions, pass over the fire a minute, then add a teaspoonful
of flour ; moisten with half a pint of broth or water, with a
piece of glaze added, season a little more, add a bay-leaf and a
teaspoonful of vinegar, with one of mustard, mix well, lay in
the cutlets unti) quite hot, when dress, upon a dish, sauce over,
and serve. This sauce is good with any kind of cutlets, but
especially pork.

452. Pork Cutlets aux Cornichons. Cut six or eight cut-
lets from a middling-sized neck of pork, season well with pep-
per and salt, dip in eggs well beaten upon a plate, and then
into grated crust of bread (not too brown) put two ounces of
lard or butter into a saute-or frying-pan, lay in the cutlets and
fry very slowly ; when done place them upon a dish ; keep hot,
pour some of the fat from the pan, add a good teaspoonful of
flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of broth or water with
a piece of glaze, add half a wineglassful of vinegar, a little salt,
pepper, and six gherkins in slices, place the cutlets in the pan
to warm gently in the sauce, then dress them uuon a dish,
sauce over, and serve.

188 ENTREES.

453. Pork Cutlets sauce demi-Robert. Cut eight cutlets
from a neck as before, season well with pepper and salt, sprinkle
chopped onions and parsley over upon both sides, beating the
cutlets lightly to make them adhere, then dip them into eggs
well beaten upon a plate, and then into bread-crumbs; pat
them lightly, have some clarified butter in a stewpan, into
which dip the cutlets, and again into bread-crumbs, well cover-
ing them, place them upon a gridiron over a moderate fire,
broiling a nice light brown color ; when done dress them upon
a dish ; have ready the following sauce : cut two large onions
into very small dice, put them into a stewpan with an ounce of
butter, fry of a light yellow color, add a teaspoonful of flour,
mix well, moisten with half a pint of broth and a spoonful of
vinegar, season well, let boil, skim and reduce until rather thick,
w r hen add a spoonful of mixed mustard, a little coloring ; sauce
in the centre of the cutlets and serve.

454. Excellent Sausage Cakes. Chop some lean pork very
fine, having previously detached all the skin and bone, and to
every pound of meat add three quarters of a pound of fat
bacon, half an ounce of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, the
quarter of a nutmeg grated, six young green chopped onions,
and a little chopped parsley ; when the whole is well chopped
put into a mortar and pound well, finishing with three eggs ;
then have ready a pig's caul, which cut into pieces large
enough to fold a piece of the above preparation the size of an
egg, which wrap up, keeping the shape of an egg, but rather
flattened, and broil very gently over a moderate fire.

455. Pigs' Feet. Procure six pigs' feet nicely salted, which
boil in water, to which you have added a few vegetables, until
well done, cut each one in halves, take out the long bone, have
some sausage-meat as in the last, and a pig's caul, which cut
into pieces each large enough to fold half a foot, well sur-
rounded with sausage-meat, when well wrapped up broil slowly
half an hour over a moderate fire, and serve. Or, when the
pig's feet are well boiled, egg over, and throw them into some
grated crust of bread, with which you have mixed a little pars-
ley, broil a nice color and serve with a little plain gravy. This
is called a la Ste. Menehould.

ENTREES. 189

456. Pig's Kidneys. Cut them open lengthwise, season
well with pepper and salt, egg over with a paste-brush, dip into
bread-crumbs, with which you have mixed some chopped
parsley and eschalot, run a skewer through to keep them open,
and broil for about a quarter of an hour over a good fire ;
when done place them upon a dish, have ready an ounce of
butter, with which you have mixed the juice of a lemon, a
little pepper and salt, and a teaspoonful of French or common
mustard, place a piece upon each of the kidneys, place in the
oven for one minute, and serve. Pig's kidneys may also be
sauted as directed for ox kidneys.

457. Hashed Pork. Put two spoonfuls of chopped onions
into a stewpan with a wineglassful of vinegar, two cloves, a
blade of mace, and a bay-leaf, reduce to half, take out the
spice and bay-leaf, add half a pint of broth or water, cut some
pork previously cooked into thin small slices, season well upon
a dish with pepper and salt, shake a good teaspoonful of flour
over, mix all together, and put into the stewpan ; let simmer
gently ten minutes, pour out upon your dish, and serve with
slices of gherkins in it; a little mustard may be added if
approved of, or a little piccalilly with the vinegar is, excellent.

The remains of salt pork, though very palatable cold, if
required hot may be cut into large thin slices, and placed in a
buttered saute- or frying-pan, with a little broth, or merely
fried in the butter, and served with a puree of winter peas,
made by boiling half a pint of peas until tender (tied up in a
cloth) ; when done put them into a stewpan with two ounces
of butter ; season with pepper and salt, add a gill of milk or
cream, pour into the dish, and dress the pork over.

It may also be cut into thin slices and put into a soup plate,
and pour some catsup or Harvey sauce over it, and let it remain
for half an hour ; butter the inside of a pudding basin, and
lay some of the remains of peas pudding round it, and then
place in the pork, cover it with some of the pudding, place it
in a saucepan with a little water to get hot for about half an
hour, and then turn it out and serve. Should you not have
quite pork enough, you may make it up with a little sausage-
meat, or any other kind of meat.

190 ENTREES.

458. Fritadella (twenty receipts in one). Put half a pound
of crumb of bread to soak in a pint of cold water, take the
same quantity of any kind of roast or boiled meat, with a little
fat, chop it up like sausage meat, then put your bread in a
clean cloth, press it to extract all the water, put into a stewpan
two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of chopped onions, fry
for two minutes, then add the bread, stir with a wooden spoon
until rather dry, then add the meat, season with a teaspoonful
of salt, half the same of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, the
same of lemon peel, stir continually until very hot ; then add
two eggs, one at a time, well mix together, and pour on a dish
to get cold. Then take a piece as big as a small egg, and roll
it to the same shape, flatten it a little, egg and bread-crumb
over, keeping the shape, do all of it the same way, then put
into a saute-pan a quarter of a pound of lard, or clean fat, or
oil ; when hot, but not too much so, put in the pieces, and
saute a veiy nice yellow color, and serve very hot, plain, on a
napkin, or on a border of mashed potatoes, with any sauce or
garniture you fancy. These can be made with the remains of
any kind of meat, poultry, game, fish, and even vegetables ;
hard eggs or cold mashed potatoes may be introduced in small
quantities, and may be fried instead of sauted, in which case put
about two pounds of fat in the frying-pan, and if care is used
it will do several times. This is an entirely new and very
economical and palatable dish, and fit for all seasons, and if
once tried would be often repeated ; the only expense attending
it is the purchase of a small wire sieve for the bread-crumbs.
The reason I call it twenty receipts in one is, that all kinds of
food may be used for it, even shrimps, oysters, and lobsters.

459. Ramifolle. These are a little more expensive than the
fritadella, and worthy the table of a crowned head. The flesh
of fowls instead of lamb or veal, with the addition of one or
two fat livers cut in dice. Proceed as in the former receipt,
using the crumb of French rolls, and one or two truffles
chopped fine : then make some pancake batter, and saute two
pancakes about one eighth of an inch thick, cover one with the
meat, <fec., and lay the other over, and put by until cold ; when
so cut them to any shape you like, but if like cutlets add the
small bone of fowl or pigeon, or the stalk of a sprig of parsley,

ENTREES. 191

egg and bread-crumb them, and saute them in oil or lard of a
nice yellow color, and dish them like cutlets, with any of the
sauces or garnitures described for mutton cutlets ; or if plain,
with fried parsley. They may be made of any kind of meat,
fish, or poultry. I have latterly had them sent up to table
when we have had a few friends, and they have been very much
liked ; and, on inquiring the name, I baptized them Ramifolle,
without any particular meaning, which name having pleased as
much as the dish, therefore let them be called Ramifolles.

They may be made a plainer way with various meats or liver,
and spread over one pancake, which roll over, and when cold
cut it into three equal lengths, egg, bread-crumb, and saute as
above.

460. Prussian Cutlets. Take a piece of veal, say one pound,
from any part of the cal as long as you extract the nerve,
with a little fat, chop it up, but not too fine, add to it two tea-
spoonfuls of chopped eschalot, one of salt, half a one of pepper,
little grated nutmeg, chop it a little more, and make it into
pieces of the size of two walnuts, which give the shape of a
cutlet ; egg and bread-crumb each, keeping the shape ; insert
a small bone at the small end, saute in fat, oil, lard, or butter,
give it ten minutes on a slow fire till a nice brown color, dish
and serve, with demi-glaze sauce, in which you have put a
spoonful of Harvey's, and serve with any brown or white
sauce or stewed vegetables you like. Any kind of meat may
be used.

461. Cutlets a la Victime,or Victimized Cutlets. Here, ma
belle amie, is a terrific title for a receipt, but do not fear it, as the time
of the Inquisition is past, and you are not likely to become one in par-
taking of it. I do not recommend it to you on the score of economy, as
it is the tip-top of extravagance ; but forward it as a curiosity, and also
in case similar circumstances should happen which caused its invention,
which, you must know, was done by a culinary artist of Louis XVIII.
of France, at the palace of the Tuileries, and first partaken of by this
intellectual monarch and gourmet, who, at the end of his stormy reign,
through a serious illness, was completely paralyzed, and, at the same
time, the functionary organs of digestion were much out of order;
being also a man of great corpulence, and a great admirer of the festive
board, much food was required to satisfy his royal appetite ; and the
difficulty which his physicians experienced was to supply his want of

192 ENTREES.

food in the smallest compass. The head-cook, on being consulted,
begged a few hours' reflection before he could give an answer to so
important a question, as nothing but mutton entirely deprived of fat
was to compose his Majesty's meal. After profound study by the chief
and his satellites, a voice was heard from the larder, which was a con-
siderable distance from the kitchen, crying, " I have found it, I have
found it." It was a young man of the name of Alphonse Pettier, who,
in saying so, made his appearance in the kitchen with three beautiful
mutton cutlets, tastefully trimmed and tied together ; he then, with a
small skewer, fastened them to a spit, and placed them, to the astonish-
ment of all present, close to the bars of the grate : two of the cutlets
soon got brown (observe, not a word was to be said until the trial was
made), from brown they soon turned black : every one gazed at each
other in astonishment whilst Pottier, with quite a composed countenance,
terminated his scientific experiment, took them off the spit, drew the
skewer out, cut the string, threw the two burnt cutlets away, and
merely served the middle one, which seems to have received all the
nutriment of the other two ; it was served and greatly approved of by
the physicians, as well as by the gourmet potentate, who in consequence
of two being sacrificed for one, named it ' Cutlet a la Victime,' and often
afterwards used to partake of them when in the enjoyment of health.

Cut three cutlets from the neck of mutton, about half an inch
thick, trim one very nicely, free from fat, leave the other two as
cut off, put the trimmed one between the two, flatten them to-
gether, so that the fat of the outside ones meet over the middle
one ; tie them together thus, and broil over a very strong fire
for ten minutes ; remove it from the fire, cut the string, and
dish up the middle one only on a very hot dish, with a little
salt sprinkled over it. If wanted roasted, proceed as above.

462. Roast and Braised Chicken, for Entries. Have
a chicken trussed for boiling ; put it on a spit, envelop it as for
turkey (No. 358), roast half the time or little less, depending on
the fire and the size of the chicken ; when done, remove it from
the spit, and take off the envelope, and serve with any of the
following garniture : -jardiniere, green peas, oysters, cucumbers,
Jerusalem artichokes, white mushroom sauce, ragout of quenelles,
juice of tarragon (No. 363), Dutch sauce, with a few heads of
cauliflower well boiled, and cut small.

463. Braised Chicken. If not convenient to roast, put

ENTREES. 193

a little bacon in a stewpan, then a chicken, a large onion, half
a carrot, half a head of celery, two bay-leaves, two cloves, one
peppercorn, one and a half tablespoonfuls of salt, a little pepper,
a bouquet garni, and a quart of water, let simmer till tender ;
dish up, after having well drained it, take the string off, pour
any of the above sauces over or under them ; when the chicken
is done, you can make, with the addition of a little more water,
a very good puree, and even sauces, and by adding some trim-
mings of beef, veal, lamb, or mutton, it will make a first-rate
clear broth, after being clarified giving it a proper color.

464. Chicken plain boiled. Put two quarts of water into a
stewpan, on the fire, or two ounces of butter, and a tablespoon-
ful of salt and a few vegetables ; when boiling, rub the breast of
the chicken with half, a lemon, and put it in to simmer from a
quarter of an hour to twenty minutes ; if a large fowl, increase
the quantity of water, and boil longer ; sauce over with parsley
and butter, or celery sauce, or any of the above : use the broth.

The remains of any of the above, or of turkey, capon, guinea-
fowl, or other poultry, may be dressed as hash, by cutting them
into neat pieces ; put them into a stewpan, put to it half a
tablespoonful of salt, one of flour, half a one of chopped onions,
ditto of parsley, a bay-leaf,, half a pint of water, a few drops of
coloring ; set to simmer for twenty minutes, and serve ; the ad-
dition of a few mushrooms is excellent.

465. Poultry en Capilotade. Put with the pieces of fowl a
tablespoonful of oft, and one glass of sherry, into a pan, and
proceed as above ; when ready to serve, chop a few gherkins,
and put in,

466. Indian Hash Fowl. Make a pint of sauce (p. YO),
warm, put into it your pieces of fowl, and serve with rice plain-
boiled.

46 Y. Fried Fowl. When you have cut the pieces as before,
put them into a basin with a little salt, pepper, a spoonful of oil,
and two of vinegar, and a little chopped eschalot, stir them well
9

194 ENTREES.

in it, and let remain for half an hour, have ready a quantity of
batter, and take a fork and dip each piece one after the other
into it, and then let it drop into the frying-pan, in which is suf-
ficient hot fat to cover them ; fry a nice color, and serve in a
pyramid, with fried parsley over, or any sauce you like under.

468. Blanquette of Fowl. Put half a pint of white sauce in
a stewpan, with six tablespoonfuls of broth or milk, let it boil,
having cut up about a pound of the remains of any kind of
poultry, put it in the sauce, warm it, and add two spoonfuls of
liaison to it ; season with a little salt, pepper, the juice of half a
lemon, stir it, and serve. Do not let it boil, or it will curdle,
and be unsightly and unpalatable ; a little cooked ham or
tongue are good in it, also oysters, and served with bread sippets
round. A little chopped parsley sprinkled over makes it look
very inviting.

469. Minced Fowl. Cut the remains into small dice, with a
little ham or tongue, add thick white sauce, season mildly ; it
can be served with poached eggs over.

470. Saute of Fowl. See the article Saute, which is applica-
ble to all kinds of poultry ; if the fowl be old, it should be pre-
viously stewed.

471. Broiled Fowl, with Sauce. Have a fowl ready plucked
and drawn, open the back from one end to the other with
a sharp knife, having previously cut the feet 'off at the second
joint, make an incision in the skin, and pass the bone through
to fix it internally ; lay the fowl on the table, breast down, beat
it as flat as possible with a chopper, take out the breast-bone,
and also the rough part of the interior of the back, especially if
a large or old fowl ; after you have it in a nice shape, season all
over with a teaspoonful of salt and half one of pepper, put it on
a gridiron, over a slow fire, turning it every five minutes until
done ; if a young one, twenty-five minutes ought to do it well ;
but by trying with the finger on the thick part, it will easily be
known by even an inexperienced hand, if firm under the finger,

ENTREES. 195

it is done, or by pressing the wing, and if tender, it is also
done ; put on dish, and pour over a brown mushroom sauce, or
the following : put two spoonfuls of Chili vinegar, two of Har-
vey's sauce, two of catsup, one of chopped eschalot, ten of plain
melted butter, put in a stewpan and boil for twenty minutes ;
skim and serve under or over.

4*72. Another way. When the fowl is ready for broiling, put
four tablespoonfuls of oil or fat, or one ounce of butter, into a
saute-pan, lay in the fowl, and saute it gently until a nice yellow
color, and then broil as above ; or egg and bread-crumb it over,
melting a little butter, and drop a little now and then when on
the fire, and with care it will be gold color ; serve with either
sharp, mushroom, tomato, or poivrade sauce on.

473. A la Tartare. By making about half a pint of the
above sauce, and ornament an oval dish by placing on the
border cut gherkins, beet-root, olives, place the sauce on it, and
lay the fowl very hot over it ; thus the fowl is hot and the sauce
cold, but together very good.

474. Croquettes of Fowl. Take the lean of the remains of
a fowl from a previous dinner, and chop it up in small pieces,
then put into a stewpan a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots with
half an ounce of butter, pass them for about three minutes over
the fire, add a teaspoonful of flour, mix well, then add the fowl,
and a gill of white sauce, or more if not sufficiently moist ; season
with pepper, salt, and sugar ; then stir in the yolks of two eggs
very quickly, stir it a little longer on the fire, and turn it out on
a dish to cool ; when cold, take twelve pieces, each of the size
of a walnut, roll them out an inch and a half in length, and
bread-crumb thrice over ; fry a good color, dress them on a
napkin, or a border of mashed potatoes. Every kind of remains
of game, meat, poultry, and fish, may' be made the same way :
if no sauce, add a little more flour, and use milk or broth.

475. Fricassee of Fowl. Divide a fowl into eight pieces,
wash it well, put the pieces into a stewpan, and cover with

196 ENTREES.

boiling water, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper,
a good bouquet of parsley, four cloves, and a blade of mace, let
it boil twenty minutes, pass the stock through a sieve into a
basin ; take out the pieces of fowl, trim nicely, then put into
another stewpan two ounces of butter, with which mix a good
spoonful of flour, moisten with stock, put in the pieces of fowl,
stir occasionally until boiling, skim well, add twenty button
onions, let simmer until the onions are tender, when add a gill
of cream, with which you have mixed the yolks of two eggs,
stir in quickly over the fire, but do not let it boil ; take out the
pieces, dress in pyramid upon the dish, and serve.

If you require to warm up the remainder of the above, put it
into a basin, which stand in a stewpan in which you have placed
a little water, put the cover over, and let it boil gently, by which
means the contents of the basin will get warm without turning
the sauce ; when hot, dish up and serve. The same plan ought
to be adopted to warm up any remains of dishes in which a
liaison has been introduced ; it prevents its turning, which is un-
avoidable in any other way.

4*76. Fowl Saute. Pluck and draw a fowl, cut it into pieces,
seven or eight, as you like, that is, the two French wings, the
two legs, the breast in one or two pieces, and the back in two ;
trim nicely, put into a saute-pan two ounces of butter, put it on
the fire ; when hot, lay in your pieces, add a teaspoonful of salt,
a quarter ditto of pepper, saute gently, turn over ; when of a
nice gold color and tender, pour the fat of the pan, add a glass
of sherry and ten spoonfuls of brown sauce, boil ten minutes
longer but very slowly, and serve in pyramid; sauce over.
This done in oil, with the addition of twenty mushrooms and a
little garlic, is the celebrated dish ofpoulet a la Marengo.

477. The Same, a plainer way. When prepared and cooked
as above, instead of the sauce, which may not be handy, add a
spoonful of flour, which dredge over till it is well mixed, then
add half a pint of boiling water, a few drops of coloring or some
mushroom-catsup, two teaspoonfuls of salt and a half of pepper,
add a bouquet of parsley, let it simmer for twenty minutes,
skim, taste if your sauce is well seasoned, dish your fowl, reduce

ENTREES. 197

your sauce until adhering to the back of the spoon, add the
juice of half a lemon, and serve. A few mushrooms or English
truffles may be added to it, which is a great improvement ; the
color of the sauce ought to be brownish ; take out the bouquet
which you have previously squeezed.

478. Saute of Fowl with Vegetables. Proceed exactly as
above, only omitting the wine, add to the sauce fifty heads of
young green scallions, or some small pieces of carrot and turnip,
or a pint of green peas, or cucumbers cut in nice pieces, stew
till tender, add a spoonful of powdered sugar, dish the fowl,
skim the sauce, take out the parsley ; when your sauce is thick-
ish and of a nice color, pour over the fowl, and serve very hot.

479. Blanquettes of Turkey. Cut off the flesh from the
remainder of a roast or boiled turkey into as large slices as pos-
sible, then break up the bones, which put into a stewpan, with
a little lean bacon and an onion, and a small bouquet of parsley,
thyme, and bay-leaf, just cover them with water, and boil gently
for three quarters of an hour, skim, and pass the stock through
a cloth, and with it make a little white sauce as directed, then
put the meat into another stewpan, lightly seasoned with a little
pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg ; just cover it with some of the
sauce, and warm it gradually, not, however, permitting it to
boil ; when very hot, stir in three tablespoonfuls of cream, with
which you have mixed the yolk of an egg, and when beginning
to thicken, dress it upon a dish with toasted or fried sippets of
bread around, cucumbers cut and dressed as directed p. 67,
and added to the blanquette are a very great improvement, as
are likewise button mushrooms or a few slices of cooked ham or
tongue.

For a blanquette of fowl proceed precisely the same.

480. Boudins of Fowl or Turkey. Cut up the remains of
a turkey or fowls into very small dice, with a quarter of a pound
of lean cooked ham to each pound of meat, make a stock with
the bones as directed in the last ; put a teaspoonful of chopped
eschalots into a stewpan, with a piece of butter of the size of a

198 ENTREES.

walnut, which stir over the fire until the eschalots become a little
yellowish, when stir in a good tablespoonful of flour, add the
meat and about a pint of the stock, let boil gently a few min-
utes, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, stir the yolks
of two eggs in quickly, and pour it out upon a dish until cold,
when divide it into pieces of the size of eggs, which rub into
long pieces of the shape and size of flat sausages, which egg and
bread-crumb twice over, and fry of a nice brown color in hot fat
or dripping, drain upon a cloth, and serve very hot.

481. Turban of Croquettes a I 1 Epigramme. Croquettes are
made from the same preparation as the last, but made up into
small pieces, two inches in length and the thickness of your
finger ; egg, bread-crumb, and fry the same, dress in a circle
upon a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with some blan-
quette of turkey or fowl in the centre.

482. Hashed Goose. Put a spoonful of chopped onions into
a stewpan with an ounce of butter, which fry over the fire until
becoming rather browned, then stir a tablespoonful of flour, put
in the remains of a goose, cut into neat pieces, and well seasoned
with pepper and salt ; add a pint of stock, let the whole simmer
about ten minutes, and it is ready to serve. A little apple sauce
may be served separately in a boat, or a couple of apples sliced,
a few leaves of bruised dried sage may be stewed with the hash.

483. Stewed Duck with Peas. Truss a duck with the legs
turned inside, which put into a stewpan with two ounces of
butter and a quarter of a pound of streaked bacon, cut into
small dice, set the stewpan over a moderate fire, occasionally
stirring its contents until it becomes lightly browned, then add
a good teaspoonful of flour, and when well mixed, a pint of
stock or water, stir occasionally until boiling, when add twenty
button onions and a bunch of parsley with a bay-leaf; let the
whole simmer a quarter of an hour, keeping it well skimmed,
then add a quart of young peas, and simmer half an hour
longer, or until the peas are quite tender, when take out the
duck, draw out the string, and dress it upon your dish ; remove

ENTREES. 199

the parsley and bay-leaf, season the peas and sauce with a little
pepper, salt, and sugar, pour over the duck and serve.

484. Stewed Duck with Turnips. Proceed as in the last,
but, instead of peas, use about forty pieces of good turnips, cut
into moderately-sized squares, and previously fried, of a yellow-
ish color, in a little lard or butter, dress the duck upon your
dish, season the turnips and sauce with a little salt, pepper and
sugar, and reduce it until thickish, not however to break the
turnips ; sauce over, and serve.

The remains of ducks left from a previous dinner may be
hashed as directed for goose, but the sage and apple should in
all cases be omitted ; for variety, should peas be in season, a
pint freshly boiled may be mixed with the hash at the time of
serving.

485. Fowl Saute in Oil. Cut a fowl into eight pieces,
that is, the two wings, two legs, two pieces of the breast, and
two of the back, which put into a stewpan, with three table-
spoonfuls of salad-oil, over a moderate fire, shaking the stew-
pan round occasionally, until the pieces of fowl are rather
browned, when mix in a tablespoonful of flour, which moisten
with a pint of stock or water, let it simmer at the corner of the
fire twenty minutes, skimming off the oil as it rises to the
surface ; add a few blanched mushrooms in slices, season with
a little salt, pepper, sugar, and a piece of scraped garlic the
size of a pea ; take out the fowl, which pile upon your dish,
laying the worst pieces* at the bottom ; reduce the sauce over
the fire, keeping it stirred until sufficiently thick to adhere to
the back of the spoon, when pour over the .fowl and serve.
Use brown sauce, if handy.

486. Fricassee of Rabbit. Cut a nice young rabbit into
neat joints, and put them into lukewarm water to disgorge
for half an hour, when drain and put them into a stewpan,
with a large onion cut into slices, two cloves, a blade of
mace, a little parsley, one bay-leaf, and a quarter of a pound
of streaky bacon cut into small dice ; cover the whole with
water, and let it simmer twenty minutes, keeping it well

200 ENTREES.

skimmed; then pass the stock through a sieve into a basin,
take out the pieces of rabbit with the bacon, then in an-
other stewpan have two ounces of butter, with which mix a
good tablespoonful of flour, moisten with the stock, and stir
over the fire until boiling; then trim neatly the pieces of
rabbit, which, with the bacon and twenty button onions, put
into the sauce; let the whole simmer until the onions are
tender, skimming off all the fat as it rises to the surface;
then pour in a gill of cream, with which you have mixed
the yolks of two eggs, leave it a moment upon the fire to
thicken (but not to boil), take out the rabbit, which pile
upon your dish, sauce over and serve.

487. Gribelotte of Rabbit. Cut up a young rabbit into neat
joints, as likewise a quarter of a pound of streaky bacon in
small dice, put the bacon into a stewpan, with two ounces of
butter, and when a little fried, put in the pieces of rabbit,
which saute of a light brown color, moving them round oc-
casionally with a wooden spoon ; then add a good tablespoon-
ful of flour, working it well in, moisten with a pint of water,
season with a little pepper and salt, and when beginning to
simmer, skim off all the fat, and add thirty button onions, a
few blanched mushrooms, and a little brown gravy or color-
ing; let simmer a quarter of an hour longer, when take out
the rabbit, which dress upon your dish ; reduce the sauce until
it adheres to the back of the spoon, when pour it over the
rabbit and serve.

488. Compote of Pigeons. Put a quarter of a pound of
lean bacon cut into small dice into a stewpan, with half an
ounce of butter, and fry a few seconds over the fire, then have
three pigeons trussed, with their legs turned inside, which place
in the stewpan breast downwards, setting them over the fire
until of a light brown color, moving them round occasionally ;
add a tablespoonful of flour, which work well in with a wooden
spoon, until becoming browned, when moisten with a pint of
water, add a good bunch" of parsley, with a bay-leaf, and about
thirty button onions, season with a little pepper and salt, let the
whole simmer three quarters of an hour, keeping it well skim-
med, then dress the pigeons upon a dish with the bacon and

ENTREES. 201

onions round, reduce the sauce to a proper consistency, take out
the parsley and bay-leaf, sauce over and serve.

489. Stewed Pigeon with Peas. Cook the pigeons precisely
as described in the last, but omitting the onions and bay-leaf,
and adding a quart of fresh green peas ; when done, dress the
pigeons in a dish, pour the sauce and peas over and serve.

490. Hot Lamb Pie (raised}. To make this an oval, a tin
or copper pie mould would be required, which you would choose
of a size most generally useful. Butter the interior of the
mould, which stand upon a baking-sheet, then make the fol-
lowing paste : put a quarter of a pound of butter and the
same of chopped suet into a stewpan, with half a pint of water,
and let the whole boil together one minute, when strain it
through a sieve into a basin containing two pounds of flour,
mixing it first with a spoon, and when cool enough with the
hand, until forming a smooth paste ; when partly cold roll it
out into a sheet half an inch in thickness, with which line the
mould, pressing the paste evenly at all parts ; have ready cut
sufficient small lamb chops from the loin, neatly cut away the
bones, and lay them round the interior of the pie alternately
with slices of raw potatoes (a quarter of an inch in thickness),
season rather highly as you proceed, with pepper, salt, chopped
onions, and parsley ; make a neat cover with the trimmings of
the paste, and bake it rather better than two hours in a mod-
erate oven ; when done lift the cover, pour out as much of the
fat as possible, add a little gravy and serve.

491. Other various Pies. Hot raised pies may also be made
with mutton by following the above directions. They are also
very good made with fillet of beef cut into thin slices of the
size of the lamb chops, or of rump steak, by laying a piece at
the bottom, seasoning and filling alternately with potatoes and
the meat ; veal and ham pies are also excellent, but the potatoes
in them had better be omitted, the veal, however, seasoned and
dipped in flour. Pies may also be made with veal sweetbreads
and ham, but then about three parts of a pint of white sauce

202 ENTREES.

should be poured in after the pie is baked. Fowls or rabbits may
likewise be cut into joints, and put into a stewpan, with a piece
of butter, previously well seasoning them with pepper, salt, and
chopped eschalots ; cover the stewpan close, and leave it twenty
minutes over a slow fire, when add a pint of white sauce, and
simmer ten minutes longer, when cold build them up in the in-
terior of the pie, which cover and bake an hour in a warm oven.
Pies of the above description can of course be made of any size,
either large enough for a family meal, or very small and round,
for a corner dish for a dinner party ; most people who are in
the habit of making them, keep two different-sized moulds for
the purpose.

492. Rump Steak Pie. Procure two pounds of rumpsteaks,
which cut into thinnish slices, and season well with pepper and
salt, dip each piece into flour, and lay them in a small pie-dish,
finishing the top in the form of a dome ; add a wineglassful of
water, then have ready half a pound of half-puff paste, cut off
a small piece, which roll into a band, and lay round the edge
of the dish, having previously wetted it with a paste-brush,
dipped in water, then roll out the remainder of the paste to
about the size of the dish, damp the band of paste upon the
dish, and lay the other piece over, make a hole with a knife at
the top, press the edges evenly down with your thumbs, trim
the pie round with a knife, egg over the top with a paste-brush,
and ornament it with the trimmings of the paste, according to
fancy : bake it rather better than an hour in a moderate oven,
and serve either hot or cold.

493. Veal and Ham Pie. Cut about a pound and a half
of veal into thin slices, as also a quarter of a pound of cooked
ham ; season the veal rather highly with white pepper and salt,
with which cover the bottom of the dish, then lay over a few
slices of ham, then the remainder of the veal, finishing with the
remainder of the ham, add a wineglassful of water, and cover
and bake as directed for beefsteak pie : a bay will be an im-
provement.

494. Mutton Pie. Procure the chumps of three loins of

ENTREES. 203

mutton, from which cut the meat in moderately thin slices, put
a layer at the bottom of the dish, which season well with chopped
parsley, eschalots, pepper, and salt ; then put a layer of slices
of raw potatoes, and again a layer of mutton, seasoning as be-
fore, proceeding thus to the top, which form in a dome, finish-
ing with mutton, cover with paste, and bake as directed for
rumpsteak pie.

495. Another method. Cut six chops from a loin of mutton,
from which trim as much of the fat as possible : season them
well with salt and pepper, and lay them round in your pie-
dish, the thick part uppermost, put two onions, in slices, in the
centre, over which lay four middling-sized potatoes, each cut in
halves, pour in a wineglassful of water, cover with paste, and
bake as the last.

496. Lamb Pie. Cut a small neck of lamb into chops,
which must not be too fat, season them lightly with pepper and
salt, and lay them in your pie-dish, with a few new potatoes in
slices, pour in a little water, then cover and bake as directed for
rumpsteak pie.

497. Chicken Pie. Cut up a nice plump chicken into joints,
which lay upon a dish, and season lightly with chopped parsley,
white pepper, and salt, then lay the back, cut into three pieces,
at the bottom of a pie-dish, with the two legs on either side ;
have half a pound of cooked ham or bacon in slices, a layer of
which cover over, then lay in the two wings, and over them the
breast, cut into two pieces, which, with the remainder of the
ham or bacon, form into a dome in the middle, pour half a pint
of white sauce over, if handy, or a little broth or water, cover
with paste, and bake as directed for the last. If no white sauce,
dip each piece lightly in flour.

498. Rabbit Pie. Cut a nice rabbit into joints, splitting the
head in halves, and lay them in lukewarm water half an hour,
to disgorge, then dry them upon a cloth, season well with pep-
per, salt, chopped eschalots, parsley, two bay-leaves, and a
spoonful of flour; have also three quarters of a pound of un-

204 ENTREES.

cooked streaked bacon, cut into square pieces the size of walnuts,
build up the pieces of rabbit and bacon together, in a pie-dish,
commencing with the worst pieces, and forming a dome ; pour
in a little water, cover with paste, and bake as directed for rump-
steak pie.

499. Pigeon Pie. Line the bottom of a pie-dish with a
pound of rumpsteak, cut into slices not too thin, seasoned with
a little salt, pepper, and cayenne, and dipped into flour ; have
ready picked and drawn a couple of pigeons, cut oft' the feet, turn
the legs in, fold up the pinions of the wings, and lay them
breast to breast upon the meat, have the yolks of four hard-
boiled eggs, which put at the sides, sprinkle a little pepper and
salt over the pigeons, lay a bay-leaf upon the top, pour in a
little water, cover with paste, stick the feet in the top, and bake
as directed for the last.

500. Partridge Pie. Line the bottom of a pie-dish with
slices of veal, cut moderately thick, and rather lightly seasoned
with white pepper and salt ; have ready picked, drawn, and
trussed a couple of young partridges, pour one glass of sherry
over the veal, and lay in the partridges breast to breast, laying
a piece of fat bacon over each, cover with paste, sticking the
feet of the partridges in the top of the pie, and bake as before.

501. Grouse Pie. Roast, very underdone, a couple of nice
plump grouse ; when cold, cut into joints, being the two wings,
two legs, and the breasts into two pieces each, season them
lightly, and lay them in a pie-dish, building them to form a
dome, then break up the back-bone and other trimmings, which
put into a stewpan, with a glass of sherry, a bay-leaf, an onion
in slices, a few sprigs of parsley, three or four whole allspice, set
the stewpan over the fire a few minutes until the wine boils,
when add half a pint of brown sauce, and half a pint of broth,
stir it over a fire until again reduced to half a pint, when strain
it through a sieve, over the grouse ; when quite cold cover with
paste, as directed for rumpsteak pie, and bake in a warm oven ;
about half an hour would be sufficient, as the paste requires
to be laid on thinner, the contents of the pie having been pre-
viously cooked.

ENTREES. 205

Pies may be made from the remains of any poultry or game, in the
same manner as here described ; only, if poultry, use white sauce instead
of brown, and omit the wine. If no sauce, roll each piece in flour, and
make only the gravy, which place in it.

The remains of any joint of meat may likewise be served in a pie, by
cutting the meat in slices, well seasoning, laying them in a pie-dish, and
pouring half a pint of sharp sauce over ; or use broth, or even water
highly seasoned.

502. Sea Pie. Put into a stewpan two pounds of beefsteak,
season it with pepper and salt, a small bit of celery chopped up,
or a pinch of ground celery seed, a pinch of pounded basil, a
teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a small onion cut in slices ; put
on this six larks trussed for roasting, then make a piece of paste
with suet, about one inch thick, and round like the stewpan ;
put half a pint of water or Hock in the stewpan, and cover the
larks with the paste, pressing it against the sides of the stew-
pan ; simmer for one hour, and serve, by putting a knife round
the sides of the stewpan to detach the paste, and turn it over on
a dish.

503. Eel Pie. Skin and cleanse three good-sized eels,
which cut into pieces about two inches in length, put a good-
sized bunch of parsley, thyme, and three bay-leaves, all tied to-
gether, into a stewpan, with an onion, into which you have
stuck six cloves, a glass of port wine, and a pint of broth, lay in
the pieces of eels, and set them upon the fire to simmer for ten
minutes, when take them out, laying them upon a cloth to
drain, skim off all the fat from the stock the eels were cooked
in, to which add rather more than half a pint of brown sauce,
let the whole boil until reduced to three parts of a pint, when
dress the pieces of eels up in a pie-dish, strain the sauce over
through a sieve, and when cold, cover \\ ith paste as directed for
rumpsteak pie, and bake about an hour in a moderate oven,
serve it hot. If for a small pie, they may be used raw, and
season accordingly, after having rolled each piece in flour.

504. Beefsteak Pudding. Put a pound of flour upon a
dresser, with which mix half a pound of beef suet, very finely
chopped, make a hole in the middle, into which put a teaspoon-
ful of salt, and sufficient water to form a rather stiffish paste,

206 ENTREES.

mix it well together, using a little more flour to dry it and pre-
vent its sticking ; then lightly butter the interior of a round-
bottomed pudding-basin, roll out two thirds of the paste to half
an inch in thickness, with which line the basin ; have ready cut
into slices, about the size of the palm of the hand and a quarter
of an inch in thickness, two pounds of rumpsteak, with a little
of the fat included, lay them upon a dish ; season with two tea-
spoonfuls of salt, and one of plack pepper, sprinkle a little flour
over, move them about a little until each piece is well covered
with flour and seasoning ; then lay them within the paste, also
putting in whatever seasoning may remain upon the dish, pour
a gill of water over, moistening the edges of the paste ; then
roll out the remainder of the paste to form a lid, which place
over, pressing it down with the thumb, then tie the basin in a
pudding-cloth, and put it into a saucepan containing about
a gallon of boiling water, and keep continually boiling for nearly
two hours, adding a little more water occasionally, to keep up
the quantity; then take it up, untie the cloth, run a sharp-
pointed knife into the pudding, and if the meat feels tender, it
is done (if not, it will require more boiling), turn it over upon
your dish, lift the basin carefully from it, and serve, without
opening the pudding to add gravy, as many persons do, for
a pudding made as above will be full of gravy when cut at
table.

505. Mutton Pudding. Line a pudding-basin with paste,
as directed in the last ; then have ready cut into slices the meat
from two loin-chumps of mutton, which lay upon a dish, and
season with a teaspoonful of chopped onions, the same of
chopped parsley, rather more than half that quantity of black
pepper, and salt in proportion; then put a layer of meat into the
pudding, then a layer of raw potatoes cut into slices, proceeding
thus until you have filled it up, but finishing with meat, cover
it up as in the last, likewise tie it in a napkin, and boil, but
rather better than two hours would be sufficient ; serve as before
directed.

506. Lamb Pudding. If convenient, procure the entire ribs
of lamb, sawing off the breast almost close to the lean part of
the neck ; the breast may be cooked as directed (No. 334) ; cut

ENTREES. 207

the neck into rather thin cutlets, which season lightly with white
pepper, salt, and a little chopped parsley and onions : you have
previously lined a pudding-basin with paste as before, fill it
with the meat thus prepared, intermixing a few new potatoes
cut in slices, finish the pudding, boil, and serve as before
directed.

507. Veal Pudding. Cut two pounds of veal from any part
of the leg into slices, about the size of the palm of the hand and a
quarter of an inch in thickness, put two ounces of butter into a
frying-pan, and when melted lay in the veal, and a few slices of
streaked bacon, season the whole with pepper and a little salt,
add one bay-leaf, and a few sprigs of thyme ; place the pan over
a slow fire, saute the veal gently for a quarter of an hour ; then
take it from the fire, and leave it in the pan until cold, then
have a pudding-basin lined with paste as before, lay in the veal
and bacon, pouring the gravy over, cover, and boil as before, but
an hour would be sufficient.

508. Pork Pudding. Line a pudding-basin with paste as
before, and spread three quarters of a pound of sausage-meat of
an equal thickness over the interior, have a pound and a half
of lean pork, from the leg if possible, cut into square pieces of
the size of walnuts, which season rather highly with pepper,
salt, a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, and half that quantity
of dried sage ; put the meat into the centre of the pudding, cover
over with a quarter of a pound more sausage-meat, over which
put on the cover of paste, tie it in a cloth, and boil two hours
and a half, as directed for beefsteak pudding.

509. Kidney Pudding. Procure one ox or eight mutton
kidneys, which cut into slices the thickness of half-a-crown
piece ; lay them upon a dish, seasoning well with black pepper
and salt, and shaking one ounce of flour over, mix all well to-
gether, to absorb the flour and seasoning ; then have a pudding-
basin, lined as directed for beefsteak pudding, finish, boil, and
serve as there directed.

A pudding made with one pound of steak and a beef kidney
is also very excellent, as is likewise a beefsteak pudding with
two dozen of oysters (previously blanched and bearded) added.

208 ENTREES.

510. Rabbit Pudding. Cut a rabbit up in joints (splitting
the head in halves), and lay them in a basin of lukewarm
water an hour, to disgorge ; line a pudding-basin with paste as
directed for rumpsteak pudding, dry the pieces of rabbit upon a
cloth, and lay them in the pudding with half a pound of
streaked bacon, cut into square pieces, and seasoning rather
highly with chopped eschalots, salt, pepper, and chopped pars-
ley ; cover, tie it in a cloth, boil it two hours, and serve as be-
fore directed.

511. Suet Pudding. Put a pound of sifted flour in a
basin, with half a pound of beef suet finely chopped, add two
eggs, with a pinch of salt, and a quarter of a pint of water, beat
well together with a wooden spoon, making a rather thick bat-
ter, flour a pudding-cloth, which lay in a small, round-bottomed
basin, pour in the mixture, tie the cloth tightly, and put the
pudding in to boil, with a joint of salt beef, if you have one, to
serve the pudding with, or if not, in boiling water ; an hour and
a quarter would be sufficient to cook it ; when done, untie
the cloth, turn the pudding over upon your dish, and serve
very hot.

512. Yorkshire Pudding. Put six tablespoonfuls of flour
into a basin, with six eggs, a pinch of salt, and a quarter of a
pint of milk, mix well together with a wooden spoon, adding
the remaining three quarters of a pint of milk by degrees ;
you have previously set a shallow tin dish under a piece of
roasting beef before the fire ; an hour before serving pour in
the batter, leaving it under the meat until quite set and rather
browned upon the top, when turn the pudding over upon the
dish you intend serving it upon, and again place it before the
fire until the other side is rather browned, when it is ready to
serve with the meat.

This pudding is also very excellent baked under a small
piece of beef of about five or six pounds. It is also frequently
baked beneath a shoulder of mutton ; also baked in an oven
separate (with a few spoonfuls of gravy added), if the fire is
not large enough.

513. Toad in a Hole. Make a batter as directed for the

ENTREES. 209

Yorkshire pudding, but with the addition of a spoonful more
flour and six ounces of chopped beef suet ; butter a rather deep
baking-dish, into which pour the batter, lay a solid piece of lean
gravy beef, about three pounds, in the centre, and bake it an
hour and a half in a hot oven.

Another method is to cut up about three pounds of rump-
steaks into about six pieces, and putting them in the batter
at various distances apart, but the former method is most
common.

Any remains of cooked beef, veal, mutton, pork, roasted or
boiled, salt or fresh, or game and fowl, cut in pieces, and sea-
soned to taste, may be used in this dish, by adding it to the
batter when in the dish.

514. Pease Pudding. Tie a pint of split peas in a cloth,
leaving them room to swell, but not more ; put them into a
stewpan of cold water, where let them boil nearly half an hour
until tender, but not at all watery (which they would not be if
allowed only sufficient room to swell, and no more) ; then turn
them out of the cloth, rub them through a hair sieve into a
basin, after which add a quarter of a pound of butter, season
with a little white pepper and salt, and mix all well together, with
three yolks and one whole egg ; lightly flour a pudding-cloth,
which lay in a small round-bottomed basin, pour in the mix-
ture, tie up the cloth, and put the pudding to boil for an hour
in a saucepan of boiling water ; when done, turn it from the
cloth upon a dish, and serve with any joint of boiled pork.

515. Fowl Pillau. Put one pound of the best Patna rice
into a frying-pan with two ounces of butter, which keep moving
over a slow fire, until the rice is lightly browned ; then have
ready a fowl trussed as for boiling, which put into a stewpan,
with five pints of good broth, pound in a mortar about forty
cardamom seeds with the husks, half an ounce of coriander
seeds, and sufficient cloves, allspice, mace, cinnamon, and pep-
percorns, to make two ounces in the aggregate, which tie up
tightly in a cloth, and put into the stewpan with the fowl, let
it boil slowly until the fowl is nearly done ; then add the rice,
which let stew until quite tender and almost dry ; have ready
four onions, which cut into slices the thickness of half-crown

210 ENTREES.

pieces, sprinkle over with flour, and fry, without breaking them,
of a nice brown color, have also six thin slices of bacon, curled
and grilled, and two eggs boiled hard ; then lay the fowl upon
your dish, which cover over with the rice, forming a pyramid,
garnish with the bacon, fried onions, and the hard-boiled eggs
cut into quarters, and serve very hot.

The bag of spice must be preserved, as it will answer the
same purpose half a dozen times.

Fowl pillaus are frequently served with two ounces of Malaga
raisins, which are added at the same time and stewed with the
rice.

516. Mutton Pillau. Trim a neck of mutton, by sawing
off the tips of the ribs and taking away the chine-bone ; then
lay it in a stewpan, with a bag of spice as in the last, and
cover with three quarts of stock, let it simmer very gently two
hours ; then take out the mutton, which keep hot upon a dish,
skim off all the fat from the stock it was boiled in, to which
add a pound of Patna rice, which stew until tender and very
dry : then lay it over the mutton, garnish with fried onions,
and hard-boiled eggs, as in the last, and serve very hot.

517. Chicken Curry. Cut up a chicken into ten pieces,
that is, two wings, two pieces of the breast, two of the back,
and each leg divided into two pieces at the joints ; then cut up
a middling-sized onion into very small dice, which put into a
stewpan, with an ounce of butter and a very small piece of
garlic, stir them over the fire until sauted well ; then add two
teaspoonfuls of curry powder and one of curry paste, which
well mix in ; then add half a pint of good broth, let it boil up ;
then lay in the pieces of chicken, cover it over, and put to stew
very gently for half an hour, stirring it round occasionally, if
getting too dry add a little more broth (or water) ; when done,
the flesh should part easily from the bones, and the sauce
should adhere rather thickly ; season with the juice of half a
lemon and a pinch of salt, and serve, with plain boiled rice,
upon a separate dish.

Ducklings can be cooked in the same way.

518. Chicken Curry with Paste. Cut a chicken up as de-

ENTREES. 211

scribed in the last, which put into a stewpan, with two ounces
of clarified butter, put it over the fire, stirring occasionally until
the pieces of the chicken are lightly browned ; then pour off
the butter and fat from the chicken, add three teaspoonfuls of
curry paste and a pint of good broth, mix all well together,
place the stewpan again upon the fire, stewing its contents
slowly for about twenty minutes, when serve, as directed in the
last.

519. Rabbit Curry. Cut up a rabbit into smallish pieces,
splitting the head in halves, cut up two large onions and one
apple into very small dice, which fry in a stewpan with two
ounces of butter; when nicely browned, add a good table-
spoonful of curry powder, a teaspoonful of curry paste, half
one of flour, and a pint of stock, mix well together, then put
in the rabbit, with half a pound of streaked bacon, cut into
square pieces the size of filberts, let the whole stew very gently
upon a very slow fire (or put the stewpan closely covered down
into a warm oven) three quarters of an hour; when done,
which you may ascertain by trying with the point of a knife if
the flesh will leave the bone easily, pour off as much of the fat
as possible, and turn it out upon your dish ; serve with rice
separately.

The curry sauce should be sufficiently thick to envelop each
piece of the rabbit.

520. Veal Curry. Cut up about two pounds of lean veal
into small square pieces, half the size of walnuts, then put a
large onion cut into small dice in a stewpan, with a clove of

farlic and one apple cut into slices, and one ounce of butter ;
eep them stirred over a moderate fire until lightly browned,
when stir in a good tablespoonful of mild curry powder, half
one of flour, mix well, then add a pint of water, let it just boil
up, put in the veal, which stir round two or three times, to mix
with the curry, and put the stewpan over a slow fire, or in a
warm oven for an hour and a half; when done (which you
may ascertain by pressing a piece between the finger and thumb,
if done it would be quite tender and separate), add the juice
of a lemon and a little salt, stir the whole round three or four

212 ENTREES.

times very gently, to mix, and turn it out upon your dish, serve
with rice separately.

Should you require a veal curry made in less time, the bet-
ter plan would be to saute the veal in butter previously, then
putting it with its own gravy to the curry, and boiling the
whole gently a quarter of an hour.

To make a veal curry with curry paste, saute the veal in
butter ; when becoming slightly browned, add a good table-
spoonful of the paste, with half a pint of water, leave it to stew
about half an hour, when it will be ready to serve.

Beef, mutton, lamb, and pork curries are made precisely the
same as directed for veal curries.

521. Breast of Veal Curry. Procure a piece of breast of
veal about three pounds in weight, with the bones and tendons
attached, which chop into about twenty square pieces, and put
into a stewpan, with two quarts of water, and a bunch of pars-
ley, thyme, and bay-leaves ; let it simmer three hours at the
corner of the fire, skimming off all the fat, then take out the
meat and strain the broth into a basin ; in another stewpan
have a middling-sized onion (cut into small dice), with an ounce
of butter, saute them rather brown, then add a good table-
spoonful of curry powder, mix well, and pour in the broth, then
add the meat, which let stew in the curry one hour longer, until
the meat is very tender, and the sauce becomes rather thick ;
pour off as much fat as possible, season with a little salt and the
juice of a lemon, which stir in very gently, take the meat out
as whole as possible, dress them upon your dish, pour the sauce
over and serve ; rice separately.

522. Breast of Mutton Curry. Cut up a breast of mutton,
bones and all, into pieces about two inches in length and one
in width, which put into a stewpan with two quails of water,
to simmer for about two hours, when proceed precisely as
directed in the last.

523. Breast of Lamb Curry is made very similar to the
preceding, and is considered a great treat to those who are fond
of curries. Curry paste may be used to advantage, either by

ENTREES. 213

itself, or mixed equally with the powder. There being a great
quantity of fat in the breast, great care should be taken to re-
move it from the curry every available opportunity.

524. LamUs Head Curry. Procure a lamb's head, which
split in halves, break the bones at the nostrils, and put into
lukewarm water an hour to disgorge, previously taking out the
brains, which likewise disgorge in the water, then put the head
into a stewpan well covered with water, let it boil two hours,
when take it out, separate the bones from the flesh, which cut
into small pieces. In another stewpan have a middling-sized
onion cut into small dice, which set upon the fire, adding two
ounces of butter, and saute them a light brown color, when add
a tablespoonful of curry powder, and half that quantity of curry

nte, mix well together, then put in the pieces of head with
f a pint of broth, and stew gently for half an hour. Whilst
the curry is stewing, take the brains from the water, and put
them into a stewpan of boiling water, let simmer five minutes,
after which chop very fine, and put them into a basin, with a
good handful of bread-crumbs, a little white pepper, salt, and
chopped parsley, mix well together with an egg, and form it
into six little round balls, which egg and bread-crumb twice
over, and fry in a little hot lard, of a very light brown color,
then dress the curry upon a dish, lay the brain croquets round,
and serve with rice separately.

525. Calfs Head Curry is usually made with the remains
left from a previous dinner ; if about two pounds of meat re-
maining upon the bone, cut it whilst cold into thin slices, then
cut two onions and two apples into small dice, which put into
a stewpan, with an ounce of butter and half a clove of garlic cut
in slices, stir with a wooden spoon over the fire until sauted
nice and brown, when add a tablespoonful of curry powder, half
one of flour, mix well, then pour in a pint of broth, add a little
salt, and boil twenty minutes, keeping it well stirred ; then put
in the calf's head, and let it remain upon the fire until quite
hot through; add the juice of half a lemon, which stir in
very gently, without breaking the meat, dress it upon a dish,
and serve with rice separately. Curry sauce may be passed
through a sieve previously to putting the head in.

214 ENTREES.

526. Calf's Feet Curry. After boiling a set of feet for
calf's feet jelly, the feet may be served in curry as follows : sep-
arate the meat from the bones whilst the feet are warm ; when
cold, cut them into small square pieces, and proceed exactly as
in the last ; or use curry sauce.

527. Calfs Tail Curry. Cut up calves' tails into joints,
which put into a stewpan, with a small piece of lean ham and
a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; cover them with three
pints of cold water, and let simmer about two hours, until ten-
der, keeping them well skimmed ; when done, strain the stock
through a hair sieve into a basin, and put the tails upon a
plate ; then proceed as directed for calf's head curry, but using
the stock from the tails, and reducing the curry until rather
thickish before adding the tails.

528. Ox Tail Curry is made precisely as in the last, but one
tail would be sufficient, and it would require double the time to
stew ; or use curry sauce.

529. Tripe Curry. Cut two large onions into very small
dice, which put into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, and
stir over the fire until brown, when well mix in a tablespoonful of
curry powder and half that quantity of paste ; add a pint of
broth, and two pounds of double tripe cut into strips ; let the
whole stew very slowly one hour, keeping it well skimmed, when
dress it upon a dish, and serve with rice separately.

530. Lobster Curry. Procure a large boiled lobster, break
the shell, and take out the flesh in as large pieces as possible, cut-
ting the tail into about six pieces, and the claws of a propor-
tionate size ; then cut two onions into small slices, which put
into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, fry them of a light yel-
low color, then mix in a good tablespoonful of mild curry paste
(or half powder and half paste), and add a pint of good broth,
then boil it up over the fire until becoming a little thickish,
when put in the lobster, stir the whole round, then cover the
stewpan closely, and put it into a moderate oven half an hour,

ENTREES. 215

by which time the curry would be of a proper consistency, and
the lobster very delicately tender, add the juice of half a lemon,
and serve with rice seperately. If no oven it may be very
gradually stewed over a slow fire, in which case it might want
moistening occasionally.

531. Crab Curry. Prepare the onions and curry precisely
as in the last, but adding the flesh of a crab (broken small)
instead of a lobster ; let it stew over the fire about twenty
minutes, add the juice of half a lemon, and serve as before.

532. Oyster Curry. Blanch and beard six dozen of oysters,
leaving the oysters in their own liquor ; then cut two middling-
sized onions into small dice, and saute it in a stewpan, with an
ounce of butter ; when done, mix in two teaspoonfuls of curry
powder and one of curry paste, then add the oysters with their
liquor, and keep stirring over the fire until the oysters become
enveloped in a thick sauce, when turn them out upon your
dish, and serve with rice separately.

533. Prawn Curry. Procure sufficient prawns to weigh
about a pound ; when picked, put half of a small onion chop-
ped very fine into a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, stir
them over the fire until becoming rather yellowish ; then add
two teaspoonfuls of mild but rather piquant curry paste, mix-
ing the whole gradually with half a pint of good broth ; then
put in the prawns, and stew gently about a quarter of an hour,
when they will be ready to serve ; rice separate.

If no curry paste, powder may be used, but the paste is for
preferable.

Shrimps may also be curried in the same way, but they are
in general so very salt.

534. Salmon Curry. Have two slices of salmon, weighing
about a pound each, which cut into pieces of the size of wal-
nuts, cut up two middling-sized onions, which put into a stew-
pan, with an ounce of butter and a clove of garlic cut in thin
slices, stir over the fire until becoming rather yellowish ; then
add a tablespoonful of curry powder and half that quantity of

216 ENTREES.

curry paste, mix all well together with a pint of good broth,
put in the salmon, which stew about half an hour, pour off as
much of the oil as possible ; if too dry, moisten with a little
more broth, mixing it gently, and serve as before.

Salmon curry may also be made with the remains left from
a previous dinner, in which case reduce the curry sauce until
rather thick before putting in the salmon, which only requires
to be made hot in it.

The remains of a turbot might also be curried in the same
way, and also any kind of fish.

535. Fillet of Sole Curry. Fillet two nice soles, and cut
each fillet intojfive pieces (slantwise) ; then in a stewpan have
a small onion chopped fine and fried, to which add a table-
spoonful of curry paste, or an equal quantity of paste and
powder ; when well mixed, put in the fillets of soles, with just
sufficient broth to cover them ; let it boil rather fast for ten
minutes, when the sauce will become sufficiently thick to en-
velop the fish, season with the juice of half a lemon, and serve
with rice separately.

Fillets of haddocks or whitings are curried precisely the
same.

536. Skate Curry. Plain boil about two pounds of skate
with a piece of the liver, which put upon a dish without a nap-
kin, previously well draining off the water ; whilst the fish is
boiling, cut two onions in slices, which put into a stewpan, with
an ounce of butter, and fry of a lightish brown color ; then
mix in a tablespoonful of curry powder with a teaspoonful of
flour, and a pint of good broth, set it upon the fire, keeping it
stirred, and when boiling, put in a good-sized apple cut into
slices, let boil until it is reduced to about half, when rub it
through a tammy or hair sieve, pour it again into a stewpan, and
when hot, pour over the fish, and serve with rice separately.

EGGS.

537. Plain Baked Eggs. Butter with one ounce a plated
dish, or common tart-dish, that will bear the heat of the oven ;

ENTREES. 217

break carefully six eggs on it, season with one pinch of pepper,
half a spoonful of salt, and add half an ounce of butter in
small pieces over, put them in a slack oven until set, and
serve.

538. Baked Eggs with Asparagus. Cut twenty heads of
sprue into small pieces, keeping only the tender part, boil them
for fifteen minutes, put them into a stewpan, with half an ounce
of butter, set them on the fire for three minutes, season with a
little pepper, salt, and sugar ; when done, put them in the dish
you intend to serve it in, break six eggs over, which season as
above, put it into the oven until it sets, and serve; in case
the oven is not sufficiently hot, place a salamander over the
eggs.

539. Mashed Eggs. Break four eggs into a stewpan, with
one ounce of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a pinch of
pepper, put it on the fire, stir continually, and as soon as deli-
cately set, serve.

These can be served with either green peas, sprue grass, or
mushrooms, which must be stewed and prepared as if ready to
serve ; put some in the stewpan with the eggs, and proceed as
before. If meagre, use cream instead of butter.

540. Eggs with Burnt Butter. Put into a frying-pan two
ounces of butter, which melt ; as soon as it is on the point of
browning, put in the eggs, which have been previously broken
in a basin, and seasoned with pepper and salt ; when well set,
serve, with a teaspoonful of vinegar over the eggs.

541. Eggs a la Tripe. Cut about two onions each into thin
slices, put them in a stewpan, with half an ounce of fresh but-
ter, and set them on a slow fire ; when warmed through, put
half a teaspoonful of salt, quarter ditto of pepper, a teaspoon-
ful of flour, a gill of milk, and a little sugar ; let it boil, put
in six hard eggs cut in quarters, and serve, after a little ebulli-
tion.

542. Snow Eggs, Take half a pint of milk and a little sugar,
10

218 ENTREES.

and flavor it with orange-flower water, or any other essence,
and put it in a stewpan on the fire, having previously beaten
up the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth ; if very hot weather,
you must place the basin they are in on ice, or in cold water ;
whilst beating, add some powdered sugar lightly ; when the
milk is boiling, take the white up with a tablespoon, and drop
it, one tablespoonful at a time, in the stewpan to poach,
keeping the shape of an egg, which turn over when set ; when
done, remove with a colander on to a sieve, and dress them in
a crown on the dish you intend to serve them on ; when all
done, beat up the yolks of four of the eggs in a stewpan, with
a little sugar and a few drops of orange-flower water, pour part
of the boiling milk out of the stewpan into it, sufficient to
make a good stiff custard, put it on the fire until rather thick,
and pour over the white, and serve either hot or cold : the last
is preferable.

543. Eggs with Cheese. Put into a stewpan about two
ounces of grated Parmesan, or Gruyere, or old Cheshire, with one
ounce of butter, two sprigs of parsley, two spring onions chopped
up, a little grated nutmeg, and half a glass of sherry ; put it on
the fire, and keep stirring until the cheese is well melted ; break
six eggs in a basin, put them in the stewpan, stir and cook them
on a slow fire ; when done, serve with fried sippets of bread
round. Or,

Another way.

Put into a flat dish that will bear the oven a piece of butter
the size of a walnut, the same of grated cheese, the yolks of two
eggs, some grated cinnamon and nutmeg, mix these on the dish,
put it either in the oven or in the hot plate, or, from want of
either, before the fire, until it sets, then gently break six eggs
on the dish, and cover with grated cheese, and salamander until
a nice brown, or for want of one, keep it before the fire until it
is so, and serve.

544. Eggs in Cases. Cut up a sheet of paper into pieces of
three inches square, turn up half an inch all around so as to
form a kind of case, they will then remain but two inches square
in the inside. Take a small piece of butter, a pinch of fine bread-
crumbs, a little fine chopped parsley, spring onions, salt, and

ENTREES. 219

pepper, and mix them together, put a little into each case, then
break one egg into each, put them on a gridiron over a slow
fire, and do them gently, or place them in a dish in an oven ;
when well set. serve.

545. Omelette with Herbs. Break six eggs in a basin or
stewpan, and add to it a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and
one of chopped eschalot or spring onions, half ditto of salt, and
a pinch of pepper, and beat it well up together. Put into an
omelette-pan, that is, a small frying-pan six inches in diameter,
two ounces of butter, which melt, then pour in the eggs, stir
round with a spoon ; as soon as it begins to set, lightly move it
to that part of the pan opposite the handle, so that it occupies
only one third, hold it so that that part of the pan is the lowest,
move with a spoon the outside edges over, and let it remain
half a minute, so that it obtains a good color, turn it over on to
the dish so that the bottom is at the top. They must not be
too much done, and served very hot. They may be served
plain, or with the addition of any gravy.

Omelettes of ham, Parmesan, <kc., are all made as the above,
with the addition that these articles must have been properly
cooked previously, and well chopped up, so as to mix well with
the eggs, beat them up well together, and cook in a pan the
same way, or a little grated cheese may be added. This I beg
of you to practise ; though simple, there is some art in making
it.

GARNITURE FOR OMELETTES.

546. Asparagus, Peas, and Green Peas. Putin a stewpan
two spoonfuls of plain boiled sprue-grass that has previously
been cut up, add to it half an ounce of butter, a little salt, pep-
per, and sugar, warm it on the fire, moving it continually ; when
warm, put it with a spoon in the centre of the omelette, turn
over, and serve ; the same with peas, and add melted butter or
white sauce.

547. Oysters. Open and blanch delicately twelve middle-
sized oysters, and put them in a stewpan with their own gravy,
beard them, add a tablespoonful of milk or cream, and give it a

220 ENTREES.

boil, then add half an ounce of butter in which you have mixed
a saltspoonful of flour, stir it in without breaking the oysters,
put over the centre of your omelette, and proceed as before.

548. Lobster. Cut half or a small one in thin slices, put
four tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, a few drops
of essence of anchovies, and a little cayenne ; put in your lob-
ster, warm it well, and put in the middle of the omelette, as
above.

549. Kidneys. Cook two kidneys as No. 430 ; when done,
serve in centre of omelette, as above.

550. Mushrooms. Wash about ten small fresh mushrooms,
cut in slices, put in a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, a
little salt, pepper, and the juice of a quarter of a lemon, simmer
for a few minutes on the fire till tender; if too liquid, add a
little flour, place in centre of omelette, and proceed as above.

551. Bacon. Cut two ounces of good lean bacon in small
dice, put in pan to fry with the butter for one minute, then mix
with the eggs prepared as for omelette of herbs, and cook the
same way.

ENTREES OF GAME.

552. Broiled Pheasant. Having drawn a pheasant, lay it
upon its breast, and pass a knife down the back-bone, upon
each side, taking it entirely out, then cut off the feet at the
knuckle, break the leg and thigh-bones, turning the leg inside,
separate the breast-joint of the wing, pressing the bird quite
flat, then saute it in a saute-pan, with a little lard or dripping,
and when browned on both sides, and about half done, place it
upon a plate, season well with salt and pepper, egg and bread-
crumb over, and broil it upon a gridiron over a moderate fire
until sufficiently done, which would be in about a quarter of an
hour, when serve with game, mushroom, or any piquant sauce.

The advantage of broiling or sauteing game or poultry is,

ENTREES. 221

that when you are alone, you need only cook the half of any
large bird at one time.

Game Curries. I have also made very good game curries,
but not too hot with curry, as that would entirely destroy the
flavor of the game.

553. Pheasant stewed with Cabbage. The following is an
excellent method for dressing a pheasant which should prove
to be rather old, although a young one would be preferable.
Procure a large savoy, which cut into quarters, and well wash
in salt and water, after which boil it five minutes in plain water,
then drain it quite dry, cut off the stalk, season rather highly
with pepper and salt, have ready a middling-sized onion, and
half a pound of streaky bacon, which, with the cabbage, put into
a stewpan, covering the whole with a little good broth ; let it
simmer at the corner of the fire three quarters of an hour, then
thrust the pheasant (previously three parts roasted) into the
cabbage, and let them stew nearly three quarters of an hour
longer, or until the stock has reduced to glaze, and adheres
thickly to the cabbage, when dress the cabbage in a mound
upon your dish, with the bacon, cut into slices, around, and the
pheasant upon the top, half way buried in the cabbage ; have
a little game sauce, which pour round and serve.

554. Joe Miller's stewed Pheasant. Roast a pheasant as
directed (No. 582), but previously dipping it into flour, and
occasionally flour over whilst roasting, thus making the ex-
terior very crisp, and keeping it nearly white, then put the
crumbs of two French rolls into a stewpan, with half a pint of
milk, a small eschalot, a bay-leaf, an ounce of butter, and a
little pepper and salt ; let the whole boil a few minutes, when
take out the eschalot and bay-leaf, place a piece of buttered toast
upon your dish, pour the above over, dress the pheasant upon
the top, and serve.

555. Hashed Pheasant. Should you have any remains of
pheasants from a previous day, cut them into as neat pieces as
possible, then put an ounce of butter into a stewpan, with half
an ounce of flour, which stir two or three minutes over the fire,

222 ENTREES.

until becoming slightly browned ; then add a glass of port wine,
half a pint of water, season highly, boil at the corner of the stove,
stirring and skimming occasionally, until sufficiently thick to
adhere to the back of the spoon ; then put in the pieces of
pheasant, with a little coloring, let it remain ten minutes, at the
corner of the stove, but not to boil, when dress the meat upon
your dish, pass the sauce over through a sieve, and serve.

556. A plain Salmi of Pheasant. Or, should you have a
pheasant left that little has been cut from, cut and trim it into
neat joints, which put into a stewpan, then in another stewpan
put the bones and trimmings, chopped up very small, with an
onion in slices, a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, four pepper-
corns, and a glass of sherry, boil altogether two minutes, then
add three parts of a pint of brown sauce, and half a pint of
broth (if no brown sauce, add a spoonful of flour and a quart
of broth or water and some coloring) ; let the whole boil until
reduced to half, skimming it occasionally ; place a fine hair sieve
over the stewpan containing the pieces of pheasant, through
which pass the sauce, warm altogether gently, without boiling,
and when quite hot dress the pieces neatly upon a dish, pour
the sauce over, and serve with sippets of fried or toasted bread
(cut into the shape of hearts) around.

The remains of pheasant, or any other game, may also be
minced and warmed in a little of the above sauce, and served
with poached eggs upon the top, or likewise made into boudins
and croquettes, as directed for turkey.

557. Grouse. The Scotch method is to plain roast the
grouse, dress it upon toast, and pour plain melted butter over.

But they may be dressed in any of the ways directed for
pheasants, with the exception of being stewed with cabbage, as
may be likewise every description of black game.

558. Stewed Partridges with Cabbage. Have two nice par-
tridges trussed as for boiling, and run five or six slices of fat
bacon, of the thickness of a quill, lengthwise through the breast,
but not to protrude, and roast them fifteen minutes before a
moderate fire; have some cabbage stewed as directed for

ENTREES. 223

pheasant with cabbage, but stewed nearly dry before thrusting
in the partridges; keep the whole hot, but not boiling, for
about an hour ; have ready two pork sausages, nicely broiled,
dress the cabbage, which must be quite dry, upon your dish in
a mound, with the partridges at the top, half buried in it, cut
the bacon in halves, placing a piece at each end, with a sausage
at each side ; pour half a pint of game sauce round, and serve ;
good plain gravy is also very nice.

559. Partridge saute with Mushrooms. Have two young
partridges, each of which cut in halves, and lay in a convenient-
sized stewpan, into which you have previously poured two or
three tablespoonfuls of salad oil, first seasoning them lightly
with a little white pepper and salt, and a sprinkle of chopped
eschalots ; put a cover upon the stewpan, which place over a
moderate fire, until one side of the partridges is browned, when
turn them over, proceeding the same until browned on both
sides ; then pour off part of the oil, and add half a tablespoon-
ful of flour, which well mix in, then add a glass of sherry, half
a pint of broth, and twenty small button mushrooms (previously
blanched) ; let it simmer, skimming off all the oil which rises to
the surface, until the partridges are tender, and the sauce thick
enough to adhere to them ; season the sauce a little if required,
dress the partridges upon a dish, sauce over, and serve.

The remains of partridges may likewise be hashed or served
in a plain salmi as directed for pheasants.

560. Woodcocks, a la Lucullus. Plain roast the woodcocks
as directed in Roasts, catching their trails upon toast, upon
which, when done, dress the birds on a dish ; have ready a little
thick melted butter, with which mix the yolk of an egg and a
little cream, pour this over the woodcocks, sprinkle lightly with
bread-crumbs, salamander of a light brown color, and serve
with a little gravy round.

561. Woodcock, the Sportsman's fashion. Roast two
woodcocks rather underdone, catching their trails upon a largo
piece of toasted bread, when done cut each bird into quarters,
which place in a stewpan, with the remainder of the trail cut

224 ENTREES.

small, a little pepper, salt, a glass of sherry, a little chopped es-
chalot, the juice of half a lemon, and half a gill of broth, let the
whole simmer very gently a few minutes ; dress the pieces of
woodcock rather high upon the toast, pour the sauce over, and
serve.

562. Hashed Woodcock. Should you have any remaining
from a previous dinner, cut each one in four (or if not whole,
into neat pieces), chop all the interior rather fine, which mix
with a small piece of butter, a spoonful of bread-crumbs, and a
little chopped parsley ; make six croutons in the shape of hearts,
from a piece of toasted bread, spread a piece of the above prep-
aration upon each, and put them in a warm oven for a short
time ; hash the pieces of woodcock as directed for pheasant, and
serve with the croutons round.

563. Snipes a la minute. Put a quarter of a pound of
butter into a stewpan, over which lay six snipes, breasts down-
wards, add a spoonful of chopped onions, the same of chopped
parsley, a little grated nutmeg, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a
saltspoonful of white pepper ; set the stewpan over a brisk fire
for seven or ten minutes (according to the size of the birds),
stirring them round continually ; then add the juice of one
lemon, two glasses of sherry, the same of broth, and a spoonful
of finely-grated crust of bread ; let the whole simmer a few
minutes longer, dress the birds upon a dish, stir the sauce well
together, pour it over th snipes, and serve ; a little glaze is an
improvement.

564. Plovers saute with JEJnglish Truffles. Procure four
plovers, which lay breasts downwards in a stewpan, containing
a quarter of a pound of butter, to which add eight raw truffles,
well washed, peeled, and cut into very thin slices, two cloves, a
bay-leaf, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper,
pass the whole ten minutes over a sharp fire, stirring them
round occasionally ; then well mix in half a tablespoonful of
flour, which moisten with half a pint of broth and a glass of
white wine; let the whole simmer at the corner of "the fire
twenty minutes longer, keeping it well skimmed, dress the birds

ENTREES. 225

upon a dish, reduce the sauce to a proper consistency, season
with a little sugar and the juice of a lemon, and pour it over
the birds ; serve very hot.

565. Wild Duck, with Orange Sauce. Having trussed your
duck as for roasting, rub it all over with the liver until quite
red ; then put it down before a good fire to roast for twenty
minutes, after which cut eight incisions down the breast, and
have ready the following preparation : put an ounce of butter
into a stewpan, with a quarter of a saltspoonful of cayenne, the
rind of an orange (free from pith, previously cut into strips, and
blanched in boiling water, and well drained upon a sieve), and
the juice of a lemon, warm all together, and when melted, but
not oily, pour over the duck, and serve.

566. Hashed Wild Duck. Cut up the remains of a duck or
ducks into neat pieces, and put into a stewpan with half or a
tablespoonful of flour (depending on the quantity), mix well,
moisten with a glass or two of wine, and sufficient broth or
water to make a thickish sauce, season well, add a little Harvey
sauce, mushroom-catsup, a little sugar, and cayenne pepper ; let
simmer, but not boil, take out the pieces, which dress upon
toast, reduce the sauce, pour over, and serve. A little coloring
may be added, if approved.

56*7. Widgeons. Rub the breast of a widgeon over with a
part of the liver, chop up the remaining part, to which add
a few bread-crumbs, a little chopped lemon-peel, chopped pars-
ley, and an egg, with which stuff the interior, roast nearly as
long as for the wild duck before a very sharp fire, dress upon
toast on a dish, having ready the following sauce : put half a
glass of port wine into a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of chopped
eschalots, a little salt, pepper, and cayenne, boil a few minutes,
add the juice of a lemon, and two ounces of fresh butter,
sauce over, and serve. Widgeons are hashed the same as wild
duck.

568. Teal, a new method. Procure four, draw them ; then
10*

226 ENTREES.

put half a pound of butter upon a plate, with a little pepper,
grated nutmeg, parsley, a spoonful of grated crust of bread, the
juice of a lemon, and the liver of the teal, mix well together,
and with it fill the interior of the teal ; cover them with slices
of lemon, fold in thin slices of bacon, then in paper, and roast
twenty minutes before a sharp fire ; take off the paper, brown
the bacon, dress them upon a slice of thick toast, letting the
butter from the teal run over it, and serve very hot.

569. Teal a la sans facon. Roast four teal quite plain, pre-
pare a quarter of a pound of butter as above, with the omission
of the livers, which place in a stewpan over the fire, stirring
quickly, until forming a kind of sauce, add some fillets from the
pulp of a lemon, sauce over, and serve. The remains of teal
also make excellent hash.

570. Larks a la minute. Proceed as directed for snipes a la
minute, previously stuffing them with their livers as directed for
widgeons, adding a few mushrooms at the commencement ; but
do not let them stew too quickly, or the bottom will brown and
give a bad flavor to the sauce ; seven minutes are quite sufficient
to stew them.

571. Lark Pie. Cover the bottom of a pie-dish with thin
slices of beef and fat bacon, over which lay ten or twelve larks
previously rolled in flour, stuffed as above, season with a tea-
spoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, one of chopped pars-
ley, and one of chopped eschalots, lay a bay-leaf over, add a gill
of broth, and cover with three quarters of a pound of half puff
paste, bake one hour in a moderate oven, shake well to make
the gravy in the pie form a kind of sauce, and serve quite hot.

572. Jugged Hare. Put a quarter of a pound of butter, with
a pound of bacon cut into dice, and the hare, cut into pieces, in
a stewpan : set upon a moderate fire until the pieces of hare are
becoming firm, when add six ounces of flour, mix well, and
moisten with sufficient water to cover it : add two glasses of
any kind of wine, and one of vinegar, season high with pepper

SECOND COURSE. 227

and salt, let simmer until tender, keeping well skimmed ; when
done, and the sauce becoming rather thick, dress upon your
dish, and serve.

573. Jugged Hare (another way). Put about half a pound
of butter, with ten ounces of flour, into a stewpan, put it on the
fire, and keep stirring it round until it has a yellow tinge ; then
add a pound of bacon cut in square pieces, stir it a little longer
on the fire ; the hare having been previously cut up, put it into
the stewpan and stir it about until it becomes firm, when add
four glasses of port wine and sufficient water to cover it ; season,
and add two bay-leaves and four cloves, and when half done,
about fifty button onions, or ten large ones in slices, a tablespoon-
ful of brown sugar, let it simmer until it is well done and the
sauce rather thick ; dress up, sauce over, and serve. If an old
one, it will take about four hours.

ROASTS-SECOND COURSE.

THESE dishes consist almost always of game, which require to be sent
up immediately they are taken from the fire, and require great care and
attention in cooking them. In the following pages will be found many
which are scarce and rarely seen in London, and never mentioned in our
various cookery books ; but considering that many of our friends reside
in the country, I have written it for them.

574. Turkey Poults. Turkey poults, so called from being
used when about the size of a large pullet, are trussed with the
legs turned at the knuckle and the feet pressing upon the
thighs, the neck is skinned and the head fixed under the wing ;
roast them the same as directed for turkeys, about twenty-five
minutes or half an hour, according to their size, and in the same
modes, but they are usually served, one larded and the other
barded, with gravy and water-cresses in the dish.

575. Roast Capon with Cresses. Roast and serve a capon
in any of the ways directed for turkeys, roast of a nice gold
color, and serve with water-cresses round ; a capon weighing

228 SECOND COURSE.

five pounds requires about three quarters of an hour to roast.
Poularde au cresson, exactly as above.

576. Roast Pullet. For a dinner of four entries you would
require two fowls, but not too large ; truss and roast them as
directed for a turkey, judging the time required according to
their size, and serve with gravy and water-cresses ; they may be
larded, barded, or served in any way mentioned in the foregoing
receipts. A fowl weighing two pounds and a half would
require half an hour roasting, or three quarters of an hour, if

57V. Spring Chickens are served like fowls, generally plain
roasted, but they may be larded as the poularde. Be par-
ticular in tying the legs upon paper to the spit, as directed for
the turkey, as it so improves their appearance when roasted.
About twenty minutes would be sufficient to roast them.

578. Goslings. A green goose roasted plain, and served
with a little gravy, is generally sent up for second courses ; but
if the larger ones are used, they must be stuffed with sage and
onions, but very few would choose such a thing for a roast
second course, whilst green geese in their season are great
favorites ; truss them by cutting off the leg at the knuckle, and
the wing at the first pinion, fixing them at the side with
skewers to throw the breast up; a full-grown goose will
take one hour to roast, but a green one not more than half an
hour.

579. Ducklings make a very favorite roast in the London
season ; they must have good fillets, white and plump, and
require to be a little more underdone than any other descrip-
tion of poultry ; if too much done, the fat catches and gives a
rank flavor to the flesh, besides causing the fillets to eat dry.
They are usually served plain roasted for a second course, yet
I have served them differently upon some occasions for the
sake of variety, but it must be with a very thin sauce and one
that invigorates the palate, although they never can be better

SECOND COURSE. 229

than when served plain roasted. I shall here give one or two
deviations : truss them by twisting the legs at the knuckles and
resting the feet upon the thighs, cut the wing off at the first
pinion and run a skewer through the bird, fixing the pinion
and legs with it, place them upon a spit, and roast twenty
minutes.

580. Guinea Fowls. These birds must be very young, for,
being naturally very dry, they are not eatable if more than
twelve months old ; they are generally larded or barded, and
served plain roasted, rather well done ; they are trussed like
the common fowls, and require nearly three quarters of an
hour to roast.

581. Pea Fowls. These magnificent birds make a noble
roast, and when young are very excellent ; they are larded,
plain roasted, and served with the tail stuck into the bird,
which you have preserved, the head with its feathers being left
folded up in paper, and tucked under the wing ; roast about
an hour and a half, take the paper from the head and neck,
dress it upon your dish with water-cresses, and the gravy and
bread-sauce separate in a boat.

GAME (CHOICE OF). There is no article of food that is so de-
ceiving in appearance to know if it is young, tender, and good, or not,
as game ; to a person living in the country, where a member of the
family has shot them in his day's sport or have been received as pres-
ents, a knowledge how to distinguish them is requisite. Young birds
may be distinguished by the softness of their quills ; females will eat
better than males, they are more tender and juicy. Old pheasants are
known by the length and sharpness of their spurs, in young ones they
are short and blunt. Old partridges before Christmas have light-blue
legs, instead of yellow-brown. Wild fowl may be known to be old
from their bills and the stiffness of the sinews of the legs, those that
have the finest plumage are the worst eating. Hares and rabbits : try
if the ear will easily tear and the jaw-bone break between the finger
and the thumb, if not they are only fit for soup or jugging. On re-
ceiving birds of all kinds, put in their mouths three or four peppercorns
bruised and one clove of garlic, and pepper the place where shot. In
case you receive many, tie a piece of paper to them with the date on
which they were received.

582. Pheasants. At the present day there are great varieties

230 SECOND COURSE.

of these birds, which differ as much in their flavor as their plumage.
There are also a large quantity of hybrids sold in market as a genuine
pheasant, and it is impossible to know them when plucked. The flavor
of the bird will depend in a great measure on the nature of the country
where it is killed.

Have them prepared and trussed : put them about eighteen
inches from the fire for five minutes, then draw them close, and
roast as quickly as possible, rubbing them all over with a little
butter, serve up with bread-sauce separate, and good gravy
under. They are also good larded, or one larded and the other
barded.

583. Partridges. The red-legged in this country are not so
fine in flavor as the gray ; they are dressed like the pheasant,
but all the time at a very quick fire, and serve very hot from
the spit ; it is better to wait a minute or two for it than to have
it wait for you ; dish it up with a little made gravy with it,
and bread-sauces, as above.

584. Grouse. These birds should be well kept, trussed like
a fowl for roasting, and served with brown gravy under, or may
be dressed as follows : truss as before, covering the breast with
vine leaves and fat bacon, which tie on ; roast from half to
three quarters of an hour according to size, and serve with
toast under, and melted butter over.

585. Red Grouse, GorcocJc or Moorcock the common Moor
Game (I'Attagas). Trussed like a fowl for roasting, which cook quick
before a sharp fire, serve with toasted bread under.

586. White Grouse or Ptarmigan (le Lagopede). They are to
be trussed like the above, and plain roasted, and served with toast
under and fried bread-crumbs, separate or dressed as follows : Put
two spoonfuls of currant-jelly in a stewpan, with the juice of a lemon
and a little salt dissolved in it ; when melted, pour over and serve.

587. Wild DucJcs (Canard Sauvage). The male is called the
Mallard, and the young one Flapper. Under the above title a great
many birds are sold.

SECOND COURSE. 231

They should all be cooked alike ; they must be kept two or
three days before they are dressed ; they are trussed by twist-
ing each leg at the knuckle, and resting the claws on each side
of the breast, fixing them with a skewer run through the thighs
and pinions of the wings ; rub the liver over the breast, roast
them before a quick tire from fifteen to twenty minutes, baste
with butter, not basting them when first put down will keep
the gravy in ; one should be better done than the other, in
order to suit the taste of those at table ; serve with made gravy
under, and a lemon separate.

588. Widgeon, Whewer, or Whim (le Canard Siffleur). These
should be eaten fresher than a Wild Duck, trussed, dressed, and served
the same ; fifteen minutes is sufficient before a good fire.

589. Dunbird, Pochard, or Great-headed Widgeon (Penelope,
le Millouiri). In some parts, Red Heads, Parkers, or Half Birds.
These are dressed as above, but are not so good as the Widgeon.

590. Teal (la petite Sarcelle}. This is a delicious bird when fat,
which they generally are after a frost. They must be trussed with care
like ducklings ; they will take about eight minutes to roast ; serve with
gravy, water-cresses, and lemon, separate, about six on a dish ; or with
sauces Nos. 141, 143.

591. Garganey (la Sarcelle). These are called Summer Teal, re-
semble it in shape, and are dressed the same way.

592. Plover. -Of these there are several sorts, all of which are
good to eat at certain seasons.

They should be well kept, but not too long, trussed gently,
but not drawn, and put on a skewer, place them a little distance
from a sharp fire, with a bit of toast under to catch the trail,
baste with a little good butter, ten minutes is sufficient ; dress
them with toast under, and serve with gravy separate. They
may also be served barded with vine leaves and very thin
bacon.

593. Woodcock (la Becasse). This is a most delicious

232 SECOND COURSE.

bird when well cooked ; they must not be kept too long ; they
are fit for cooking when they become black between the legs,
and the feathers are rather loose ; truss them with the legs
twisted at the knuckles, and the feet pressing upon the thighs,
bring the pinion of the wing to the thigh, having previously
skinned the neck and head ; bring the beak round under the
wing, which pass through the pinions of the wings and thighs.
Place four on a skewer, tie them on a spit, and roast before a
sharp fire from ten to fifteen minutes, placing toast under to
catch the trail ; when done, serve on the toast and a very little
gravy : they may also be barded with thin slices of bacon over
the breast, and served with a sauce offumet de yibier.

594. Snipes. They are dressed in every respect like Wood-
cocks ; and from seven to ten minutes is sufficient. They may
likewise be fried in plenty of oil, and served with sauces Nos.
131, 143.

595. Larks (VAlomtte). They are best in winter when very
fat ; they are roasted plain or with a thin slice of bacon and a
leaf of celery tied over them ; they require about eight minutes,
and served with a little gravy and bread-crumbs, they are also
used in pies (see Pigeon Pie) ; and may be dressed like Snipes.

596. Quail (la Caille). Should be killed at least forty-eight
hours before they are wanted ; they should then be plucked,
singed, drawn, and trussed by cutting off the wings at the first
pinion, leaving the feet, and fixing the pinion and the wings
with a very small skewer ; cover the breast with vine leaves and
a slice of fat bacon, and run a skewer through the pinions and
thighs of each : tie on a spit and roast for ten to twelve min-
utes before a sharp fire. They should be served a nice gold
color in a dish with a little gravy ; they may also be trussed as
above, and put into a pig's caul, and roasted and served with
either sauces Nos. 141, 601.

597. Rabbits. There are two sorts, the tame and wild; the wild
or gray inhabits the mountainous districts ; has the finest flavor, or on
those places where it can feed on thyme, geneva, or other aromatic

SECOND COURSE. 233

"herbs, or on the sea coast, where he gets the lichen or wild moss. It
has a much darker color than the tame. The tame rabbit, if properly
fed 21 days before killing, may be made a very delicate article of
nourishment ; it should be kept from two to four days. When killed it
should be removed to a cold place as quick as possible, that the fat
may set.

If old, the claws will be long and rough, the coat rough and
gray hairs mixed with it. If young, the claws and wool smooth.
If stale, the flesh will be slimy and a bluish color ; if fresh, it
will be stiff, and the flesh white and dry.

598. Hares. One is sufficient for a roast, skin and truss it
nicely, stuff the interior with a good veal stuffing, sew it up,
then put it on the spit, rub butter over the back and shake flour
over it, roast it about forty minutes before a sharp fire, but that
depends upon the size, of course ; serve them with plain gravy
in the dish and currant jelly separate. They are also served
with a sauce poivrade, or sweet sauce ; they may also be larded.

599. Leverets are plain roasted and do not require stuffing,
nor so long roasting, being smaller ; they are usually served
with plain gravy, but may be served with either of the sauces
mentioned in the last ; you require two for a roast. They will
take from twenty -five to thirty minutes roasting. They may be
larded, for a change.

600. Wild Fowl Sauce. The following is a good sauce ;
the quantities are given for one wild duck.

Walnut catsup one tablespoonful ; the same of Harvey's or
Worcestershire sauce, the same of lemon-juice, a wine-glass of
red wine, a good slice of lemon-peel, one eschalot minced, half
a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, one blade of mace, and a wine-
glassful of gravy ; boil ten minutes, serve very hot, and pour
over the bird when cut up.

601. Fumet de Gibier Sauce. Take the remains or bones
of game (the back-bones of grouse are best), chop them up
small, put them in a stewpan, with a glass of white wine, an
onion, a small piece of carrot and of turnip sliced, a leaf of eel-

234 SAVORY DISHES.

ery, a sprig of thyme, the same of parsley, a bay-leaf, a clove,
half a blade of mace ; stir over the fire five minutes, then add
a quart of brown sauce, if too thick add some water, boil for
about twenty minutes, skim, strain, and serve ; a little lemon-
juice and cayenne pepper may be added if approved of.

SAVORY DISHES.

602. Veal and flam Pies (raised). The following few dishes
will be found extremely useful for breakfasts, luncheons, second course
in a dinner party, or for dinner in summer, but above all for supper
when you give an evening party.

Having found a great difficulty in raising the crust for a pie with my
hands, I purchased for a trifle a tin pie-mould, by the use of which the
process is more simple, and the pie retains its shape whilst baking,
and secures the gravy, much better.

Well wipe and butter the interior of the mould, then have
ready two pounds of pate fine, rather firm than otherwise, two
thirds of which roll out to fit the mould, press it evenly over the
interior, raising the paste half an inch above the edge of the
mould, you have previously prepared six pounds of veal, cut
from the fillet, as follows : cut four pounds into pieces an inch
square, and as nearly as possible to the length of the pie ; with
the remainder make some forcemeat (see Receipt) ; then run eight
pieces of fat bacon, each two inches in length, and a quarter of
an inch square, through each piece of veal ; have also two
pounds of lean bacon, cut into pieces of nearly the same size as
the veal, then put a quarter of a pound of butter into a frying-
pan, and when melted over the fire, lay in the veal and bacon,
season rather highly with a teaspoonful of salt, the same of pep-
per, half that quantity of grated nutmeg, and a tablespoonful
each of chopped onion and parsley, saute the whole a quarter
of an hour, occasionally turning the meat, until getting of a
nice color, and the bottom of the pan is covered with a thickish
glaze ; then line the interior of the pie with some of the force-
meat, to the thickness of half an inch, after which lay three
pieces of veal at the bottom with two of the ham, alternately,
which cover over with more forcemeat, to about an inch in thick-

SAVORY DISHES. 235

ness, then more veal and bacon, with forcemeat, again proceed-
ing thus until full, finishing with the forcemeat, forming a dome
about an inch above the edge of the paste, and lay a pat of
butter with a bay-leaf at the top, then mould the remainder of
the paste into a ball, which roll to the size of the top of the
pie, wet the edges with a little egg, lay on the cover, which
press down with the thumbs, working the edge up gracefully
with the thumb and forefinger, to about an inch above the top
of the mould, cutting some of the paste away where too thick,
and crimp the extreme edge with a pair of paste nippers ; then
have ready half a pound of puff paste, which roll to about the
thickness of about a quarter of an inch, from which cut a piece
the size and form of the dome of the pie, upon which place it
to form a lid (pre viously wetting the top with a little water),
press it down lightly, egg over with a paste-brush, edges as well,
make a small hole with a knife at the top, and carve any design
upon the puff paste according to fancy ; tie a band of buttered
paper round the mould, an inch above the pie, put it into a
moderate oven to bake about two hours, but to be certain if
done, run a pointed knife or trussing needle into the centre, and
if it feels tender it is sufficiently baked.

Then take it from the oven, and pour in a gill of strong gravy,
in which you have dissolved a little isinglass (especially if in summer) ;
when cold, take it from the mould (which opens at one end by drawing
out a pin), and serve upon a napkin, garnished round with parsley. To
carve, cut it into slices, the whole breadth of the pie and half an inch in
thickness.

Such a pie as above would weigh four pounds when baked ; but
should you require a smaller one, diminish the proportions accordingly.
If no puff paste, the top might be ornamented with a few leaves from
the trimmings of the other paste. I have given you the above receipt
very minutely, as the above applies to every description of raised pie,
the difference only being its contents.

603. Raised Pie of Fowls. Make the paste and forcemeat
as in the last, but instead of veal and ham, bone a young fowl
as directed for galantine, which lay flat upon a clean cloth, breast
downwards, season the interior with a little pepper, salt, and
chopped onions ; spread a layer of forcemeat over, half an inch
in thickness, have ten pieces of veal of the thickness of your
finger, and the same length as the fowl, and the same number
of pieces of fat bacon, lay half of the veal and bacon alternately

236 SAVORY DISHES.

upon the fowl, well seasoned with pepper and salt, cover over
with more forcemeat, then another layer of veal and ham, cover
with more forcemeat, then roll the fowl over, making the skin
meet at the back, you have previously lined a raised pie-mould
with paste, then line the pie with forcemeat, half an inch in thick-
ness, lay in the fowl, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over, cover
with the remainder of the forcemeat, to form a dome, place a
pat of butter and two bay-leaves upon the top, finish and bake
precisely as in the last : when done, pour in a gill of gravy
made from the bones of the fowl ; serve cold.

604. Raised Pie of Pheasant. Proceed precisely as for the
pie of fowl, but of course using a pheasant, an old one would
answer the purpose if kept long enough, but all the sinews of
the legs must be taken out in boning it, the fillets of the breast
also, being very thick, may be partly cut out and used with the
veal for the interior ; if in a situation to obtain rabbits, the fillets
of them might be used instead of veal for the interior, and the
legs for forcemeat.

For gravy, break up the bones of the birds, which put into a
stewpan with a glass of sherry, an onion, a few sprigs of thyme,
parsley, and a bay-leaf; let it simmer a minute over the fire,
then add a pint of broth and a little isinglass or gelatine, let the
whole simmer for an hour, giving it a nice brown color, when
pass it through a sieve into a smaller stewpan, place it again
upon the fire, skim off all the fat, and reduce it to half a pint,
and when the pie is baked, pour it in, shaking the pie a little to
mix well ; serve when cold.

Pies of grouse, partridges, moor fowls, &c. are made pre-
cisely in the same manner, using one or more according to the
size you wish to make your pie. The fillets of hares are like-
wise excellent in pies, whilst the legs might be jugged or con-
verted into soup.

Capons, poulards, green geese, or ducklings may also be
served in a pie by proceeding as directed for fowls, but man-
aging the size of the pie, and seasoning in proportion.

Pigeon pie can also be made in the same way, but then the
meat with which the interior of the birds is filled must be cut
much smaller, and require less time in cooking.

605. Simple method of making Pies. Make two pounds

SAVORY DISHES. 237

of flour into a paste, as 'No. 602, and also two pounds of force-
meat, mould three quarters of the paste into a ball, which, with
a rolling-pin, roll to about half an inch in thickness and of an
oval shape ; lay half the forcemeat in the centre, which spread
over to within two inches of the rim, having prepared and sauted
some veal and ham as directed for the veal and ham pie, No.
602, lay them alternately upon the forcemeat, with which again
cover the meat, laying a pat of butter and a bay-leaf upon the
top ; roll out the remainder of the paste of an oval shape, but
much thinner than the other, damp the paste around with a
little water, and lay the sheet of paste over, pressing it down
with the finger and thumb, then wet the top, and bring up the
paste at the sides, which will stick to it, thus forming a long
square pie, with the trimmings of the paste form a few leaves,
with which decorate it according to fancy, egg the whole well
over, make a hole in the top, and bake two hours in a moderate
oven ; when done, pour in the gravy, as for pies made in
moulds, and put by to serve cold. A square piece of puff
paste laid upon the top, and ornamented previous to baking, is
also a great improvement. Some gravy, as above, may of
course be introduced.

You will perceive, my dear Eloise, from this one receipt, that any
kind of poultry, game, or meat pies, might be made in the same manner.
To carve, they should be cut across in thin slices through paste and all.

When we are alone I frequently make a very small one for luncheon,
generally grating half a pound of sausage meat, with which I mix an egg
and a little chopped eschalots, frying the veal or lean bacon or ham, and
proceeding as for the larger ones ; from three quarters of an hour to an
hour would be sufficient to bake it ; at times I make it with a pigeon,
partridge, or two plovers stuffed, and surrounded with forcemeat, but
boned : they are very excellent hot.

606. Tureen of Game. I bought the other day a common
earthen tureen, for which I gave ninepence ; I made some force-
meat precisely the same as for pies, boned a grouse and stuffed
it as for a pheasant pie, and seasoning the same ; I then lined
the tureen with the forcemeat, laid in the bird, which I again
covered with the remainder of the forcemeat, put two pats of
butter and a bay-leaf upon the top, then placed on the cover,
fixing it down with a band of common paste laid inside upon
the rim of the tureen, and baked it three hours in a moderate
oven, and when I opened it about a week afterwards it was

238 SAVORY DISHES.

most delicious ; when served to table the cover should be taken
off, the bay-leaf removed, and a few fresh water-cresses laid over.
All sorts of game, poultry, and meat, I have done in the same
way ; it is quickly done and very good and economical, as it will
keep a long time.

60*7. Galantines. Having twice failed in the attempt to make
this difficult dish, I was about to relinquish the idea, but having re-
ceived a small turkey about two months back, I could not resist making
another attempt, in which I succeeded ; it is rather expensive, but it is
a beautiful dish for supper. After having plucked, and singed off the
hairs with a piece of lighted paper, I laid it breast downwards upon a
clean cloth, and with a sharp-pointed knife boned it as follows : first,
just pass the point of the knife through the skin, which cut open straight
down the back-bone, then proceed to clear the fle.sh from the bones of
the carcase until you come to the breast-bone, disjointing the wings and
legs as you proceed ; very carefully detach the breast-bone from the
flesh without cutting through the skin, when you may remove the car-
case wkh the interior of the turkey ; then proceed to take the bones
from the legs and wings, which is not quite so difficult ; for the legs,
scrape the first bone free from the flesh to below the first joint, where
chop it off; cut the flesh round over the knuckle and pull the foot, when
the remainder of the bone and sinews will come together ; then cut off
the wings at the first pinion, and the remaining bone is quickly scraped
away.

I can assure you I found this quite a job the first and second time,
but it is very essential to learn, as all kinds of poultry and game are
boned in the same manner, and to this description all references upon
the subject must be made throughout our little work.

You have prepared four pounds of forcemeat, as for pies,
also have long strips of veal, ham, and fat bacon, which well
season with salt, pepper, and chopped eschalots ; put a layer of
the forcemeat an inch thick down the bird, leaving two inches
upon each side uncovered, then some of the veal, bacon, and
cooked ham alternately, which again cover with forcemeat, but
not exceeding half an inch in thickness (as too much forcemeat
between the meat would spoil its appearance), proceeding thus
until sufficient to fill the skin of the bird, when pull over the
flaps, and sew it up tightly with a packing needle and small
string, and tie it up in a napkin. If any, a few strips of cooked
tongue, and blanched pistachios, laid in alternately with the
veal and bacon, greatly improves its flavor' and appearance.

To cook. Put in a stewpan with two onions, a carrot, half a
head of celery, two cloves, a blade of mace, a good bunch of

SAVORY DISHES. 239

parsley, thyme, aud bay-leaves, a knuckle of veal, the bones of
the turkey, two calf's feet, two ounces of salt, add sufficient
water to cover the whole, and set the stewpan upon the fire
until upon the point of boiling ; then draw it to the corner, skim,
and let simmer for three hours ; then take it from the fire, leaving
it in the stock until nearly cold ; then take it out, remove the
string from the napkin, and roll the galantine up tighter, tying
the napkin again at each end only ; then place it upon a dish,
the breast part upwards, set another dish upon it, on which place
a fourteen pounds weight, which will press and cause it to cut
firm ; when quite cold it is ready to serve, having removed the
napkin and the string with which it was sewed : the stock, how-
ever, should be clarified as directed in the next receipt to
make a savory jelly, which, when cold and firm, is cut in crou-
tons and chopped, with which the galantine should be tastefully
garnished.

Although at first I had some difficulty with this receipt, I can now
see the variety to which it leads, as the same process answers for fowls,
green geese, ducklings, pheasants, grouse, partridges, <fec., using game
with the veal or pork for the interior, and stewing them according to
their size, the bones of game being stewed with the stock would give
the flavor to the savory jelly.

608. To Clarify Meat Jelly. Having passed the stock
(made as in the last) through a sieve into a basin, leave it until
quite cold ; then take off all the fat very carefully, ascertain if
sufficiently or too stiff by putting a small piece upon ice ; savory
jelly requires to be rather stiffer than sweet, if too stiff add a
little more broth, if the contrary, the stock must be reduced
upon the fire until of the proper consistency. When the stock is
boiling, and you are perfectly assured of its strength, have the
white of four eggs with their shells in a basin, with half a pint
of water, two spoonfuls of tarragon or common vinegar, and a
glass of sherry, whisk all together ; then whisk the stock quickly
a few seconds, and pour in the other ingredients whilst whisk-
ing, continue whisking a few minutes until again upon the point
but not boiling ; then take it from the fire, and taste if palata-
ble, place a cover upon the stewpan, which stand a little dis-
tance from the fire, putting a few red-hot cinders upon the lid
for rive minutes, tie a napkin by the four corners upon a jelly
stand, through which pass the jelly, having a basin beneath to

240 SAVORY DISHES.

catch it, pour the first that runs through again into the napkin
until it runs quite clear ; when all through, pour it in a plain
mould or saute-pan, which place upon ice until the jelly is quite
firm ; then dip the bottom of the mould in hot water, turn the
jelly out upon a cloth, and cut it into whatever shapes you
please, to garnish and ornament any cold savory dish ; the jelly
when warm might be divided, one part kept white, and the
other colored with a little brown gravy or coloring, thus en-
abling you to variegate in garnishing.

Should the jelly be required to ornament tongues, hams, pies,
salads, or any article when no galantine is made ; then to make
the stock, cut the veal into small pieces, and split the calf's foot
in two, put a quarter of a pound of butter in a convenient-sized
stewpan, with the veal, foot, a small piece of lean ham, and the
other ingredients as directed for galantine, pour in half a pint of
water, put on the lid and stand it upon the fire until the bottom
of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze ; then add a gal-
lon of water, let simmer three hours, keeping it well skimmed ;
then pass and clarify as above.

The knuckle of veal and foot may be served hot with a little
parsley and butter, for a dinner previous to your party, with a
little fried bacon separately, but for my own part I prefer them
plain as they leave the stewpan.

609. Cold Ham. Procure a very nice but small ham of
about nine pounds in weight, which soak about ten hours in
cold water, and simmer three hours in plenty of water ; when
done, take out and let remain until cold ; then cut off the skin
as thinly as possible, but without leaving the marks of it ; let
a piece remain upon the knuckle about two inches and a half
in breadth, which either festoon or vandyke, carve the fat neatly
to form a shell, and glaze it over lightly, serve with a paper
frill upon the knuckle, and garnish with savory jelly, or if plain
with a few bunches of fresh green parsley. A handful of
fresh hay put in the water when boiling is an improvement.

610. Cold Tongue. Boil a nice ox tongue for three hours,
and, when done, take off all the skin, and truss it of a good
shape, by placing the root against some fixture, and running a
fork through the middle of the thin part into the board upon

SAVORY DISHES. 241

which it stands ; when cold trim and glaze it lightly over, cut-
ting off the greater part of the root, place it upon a dish, gar-
nished either with savory jelly or fresh sprigs of parsley.

611. Galantine of Veal. When I do not like to go to the
expense of a turkey or other poultry for a galantine, I procure a
small breast of veal, and take out the tendons, which I stew ;
take out the remaining bones, and trim the meat to about fif-
teen inches in length and eight in width, using the trimmings
for a ragout ; season the interior of the breast, and proceed to
lay on the forcemeat veal, ham, and bacon, as directed for the
galantine of turkey, roll and sew it up, tie in a cloth, braise, and
afterwards press it in precisely the same manner ; when quite cold,
glaze it nicely and serve, garnished with savory jelly ; or, if for
a large supper, six or eight small dishes might be made from it
by cutting it into thin slices crosswise, and dressing six pieces
in a border upon each dish, with a little jelly in the middle, or
if no jelly, a sprig of parsley or water-cresses ; but if served in
the latter way, I introduce two ounces of blanched pistachios.
When making the galantine, of course, the dishes must be
placed at a distance from each other at various parts of the
table. I have also made a galantine of a shoulder of lamb in
the same way, previously taking out the bones.

612. Cold Fillet of Veal Roast braise as No. 358 ; when
cold, trim neatly, and garnish with jelly or parsley.

A loin of veal larded through the fleshy part with raw ham,
and fat bacon, and roasted as above, makes a very delicate
dish.

A small shoulder of veal might be boned the same as a
shoulder of lamb, and made into a galantine.

613. Ribs of Beef larded. Choose a piece of beef with
about four ribs, and cut very long, carefully take away the
bones, lard the fleshy part through with strips of fat bacon,
well seasoned with pepper, salt, and chopped parsley ; spread
some veal stuffing over, and roll it round, keeping the stuffing
in the interior, tie it up with string, and roast in vegetables as
11

242 SAVORY DISHES.

in the last article, leaving it to cool in the vegetables ; when
cold, glaze and serve, garnished with sprigs of parsley.

The beef well rubbed with garlic and well seasoned with salt
and pepper, previous to spreading on the stuffing, would be a
great improvement.

I sometimes leave the bones in the meat, lard the fleshy part,
and afterwards roast it in vegetables to serve cold.

614. Pressed Beef. Procure a piece of brisket of beef, cut
off the bones, and salt it as directed (No. 615), but adding a
little extra sal prunella to the brine and a little spice ; let the
beef remain in pickle rather better than a week : when ready
to cook, roll it round, tie it in a cloth, and let it simmer
gently in plenty of water, about seven hours if a whole one,
but four hours if only the thin end ; when done take it up,
remove the string, aud tie the cloth at each end, put it upon
a dish with another dish over, upon which place half a hundred-
weight, leaving it until quite cold, then take the meat from the
cloth, trim and glaze it lightly, and serve garnished with a few
sprigs of fresh' parsley.

615. P icicle for Beef a la Garrick. Take twenty pounds
of salt, three quarters of a pound of saltpetre, four cakes of sal
prunella, two pounds of moist sugar, two cloves of garlic, with
which rub the meat well, and leave it rather more than a week,
rubbing and turning it over every day.

This pickle is adapted for anything that is required red.

616. Spiced Beef. Procure a piece of thin flank of beef
about ten pounds in weight, which salt as the last for about a
week ; when ready, split it open with a knife and lay it out flat
upon a dresser, having previously prepared six onions chopped
very fine, with about ten sprigs of parsley, and the leaves of ten
sprigs of thyme, the same of marjoram, two ounces of mixed
spice (without cinnamon), and half an ounce of black pepper,
mix altogether, spread half upon the beef as it lays before you,
then fold it over to its original shape, lay on the remainder of
the preparation, roll it up tightly in a cloth, boil, press, and
serve as directed in the last article.

SAVORY DISHES. 243

617. Pig's Head in imitation of Wild Boar's Head.
This you will say is not only a difficult dish to do, but a very expensive one.
You are right when you are obliged to buy the pig to possess the head ;
but in a small farm-house where they kill a pig perhaps once a year at
Christmas, the head can be very easily cut off for this purpose. Being
on a visit some years since at a farm-house, I had the opportunity of
having one, and trying my skill upon it ; it was much approved of, both
for its ferocious appearance, and its flavor, and it lasted good for three
weeks.

The following is the way you should do it : procure the head
with as much of the neck attached to it as possible (the hog
must have been stabbed in the neck, not hit on the head as that
would have broken the skull) ; then singe it well over the flame
of a fire, then wipe it with a cloth, scrape well with a knife
without scratching the skin, and place it on a cloth upon its
skull ; open it very carefully without piercing the skin,
leaving no flesh whatever upon the bones ; bone the neck of
the pig, and cut it into small fillets two inches long, place the
head on a board and rub it with half a pound of brown sugar,
let it remain for one hour ; then place it in a salting tub, and
throw over it six pounds of salt, place in two quarts of ale, four
bay-leaves, half an ounce of peppercorns, a quarter ditto of
cloves, six blades of mace, eight sliced onions, ten sprigs of
thyme, ten of winter savory, and two sliced carrots ; stir it well
up, and let it remain for two hours ; then pour over the head,
which turn every day for eight or ten days, rubbing it well ;
when sufficiently salted, take it out and dry it on a cloth, lay
the head straight before you, skin side upwards ; have ready
six or eight pounds of forcemeat, but using pork instead of
veal, with which cover the head an inch in thickness at the
thinnest part; put the fillets cut from the neck in a layer
lengthwise in the head, with a long piece of fat bacon, half an
inch square, between each, sprinkle a little chopped eschalots,
pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg over, and continue filling with
forcemeat and the other ingredients until you have used the
whole, finishing by covering forcemeat over ; join the two cheeks
together with the above in the interior, sew it up with pack-
thread, giving it the shape of the head as much as possible,
and fold it in one or two large thin cloths, leaving the ears out
and upright.

Braise as follows : Put half a pound of butter in a large braising-pan
or etock-pot, over which put four pounds of trimmings of pork or knuckle

244 SAVORY DISHES.

of veal, eight onions, two carrots, four turnips, eight bay-leaves, a table-
spoonful of peppercorns, twelve cloves, ten sprigs of thyme, ten of mar-
joram, four blades of mace, half a bottle of bucellas wine, and four call's
feet, place it upon a sharp fire, stirring it occasionally, until the bottom
is covered with a clearish glaze, then add four gallons of water and half
a pound of salt ; when boiling draw it to the corner of the stove, skim,
and put in the head, the ears uppermost, and let simmer seven or eight
hours, or according to the size and age of the pig ; but the better plan
would be to try it with a trussing-needle ; if tender it is done ; skim the
stock, in which leave the head until half cold, when take it out, partly
undo the cloths, and tie it again tighter if possible, and press it in a cover
or upon a baking-sheet with three flat pieces of wood, one at each side,
with a weight against them, and one upon the top between the ears, on
which place a fourteen pounds weight, let it remain all night until quite
cold, when take it out of the cloths, detach the thread it was sewn up
with, cut a piece an inch in thickness from behind the ears (from which
part it must be carved in as thin slices as possible), it will have a marbled
appearance ; trim the head a little, setting the ears in a proper position,
glaze it with a brownish glaze, form the eyes with a little lard and a
few black currants round, and the tusks with paste, baking them ; have
some very fresh tulips and roses, which stick tastefully in the ears and
some around, but leaving space to carve ; garnish boldly with croutons,
aspic, made from the stock clarified as directed (No. 608) ; the meat and
the calf's foot may be used for different dishes, see receipts.

The second one I had I boiled plainer, merely a little salt and
a few vegetables ; it was very good, but not so rich in flavor as
the other ; thus saving expense and trouble. They should be
eaten with the following sauce :

Boar's Head Sauce. Cut the rind (free from pith) of two
Seville oranges into very thin strips half an inch in length, which
blanch in boiling water, drain them upon a sieve, and put them
into a basin, with a spoonful of mixed English mustard, four of
currant jelly, a little pepper, salt (mix well together), and half
a pint of good port wine.

LETTER No. XV.

DEAR ELOISE, To you, who are so fond of lobster, the following re-
ceipt will, I am confident, prove roost valuable. To make sure of its
quality, buy one heavy in proportion to its size ; or, perhaps, entre nous,
you would prefer to wait until a friend presented you with one.

LOBSTER. This fish, which is continually before our eyes, and only
looked upon as an article of food, is, without doubt, one of the wonders

SAVORY DISHES. 245

of the creation. A creature destitute of bones, yet furnished with a
stomach capable of digesting the hardest substances, even its own shell,
which it doffs once a year, when it is too small for it ; without blood
circulating through its body, yet strong and active. This is only one of
those wonders of the mighty deep that we cannot but regard with awe
and veneration, and yet the principal interest they do excite is when we
visit a shell-fish shop to choose the largest and best for the smallest
price. They are, without doubt, a very nourishing aliment, and are by
many supposed to have a particular season, but which I believe not to
be the case, as I have known them in and out of season on the same
ground. When out of season, the pea or spawn is very large, and about
being hatched ; immediately after which it sheds its shell, and not its
stomach, as is by many supposed. When in season, and fine-flavored,
it should have no spawn, or very little, under the tail ; and when its
body is squeezed between the fingers it should not give, but be hard ;
its weight will also be a test, as it is a fish which wastes very much
when kept long alive without food : great care must be observed in the
boiling of it. A number should be placed at one time in a basket, and
that placed in boiling water, adding half a pound of salt to every gallon
of water, with a heavy weight upon it ; if overdone, they eat tough and
thready ; if underdone, unwholesome and unpalatable. One weighing
a pound will take fifteen minutes, and so on in proportion.

618. Gratin of Lobster. Procure a good-sized lobster, cut
it in half, detaching the head from the body ; take out all the
meat, and save the four shells ; cut the meat into slices, then
take a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a
piece of butter the size of two walnuts, pass them a few minutes
over the fire, add a tablespoonful of flour (mix well in), half a
pint of milk, stir over the fire, boiling about five minutes, then
add the lobster, which season with a little cayenne, salt, chopped
parsley, and essence of anchovies ; stand it again upon the fire,
stirring until boiling, then stir in the yolk of an egg ; take off
the fire, fill the shells of the lobster, sprinkle bread-crumbs over,
with a little butter, put in the oven for twenty minutes ; dish on
a napkin and serve. To give it a nice color, use the salamander.

619. Miroton Salad of Lobster. Prepare and ornament a
border of eggs, like 'for that of game, put a thick layer of fresh
salad in the centre, and dress over it in a crown, the lobster in-
terspersed with slices of eggs and gherkins. The lobster must
be divided in two across the back, extract the meat carefully out
of it, and cut it in a round or slanting direction to the thickness
of a crown piece, break the claws and cut the same way, and

246 SAVORY DISHES.

place on salad as above, so as to form a thick crown near the
border of eggs, then take the interior of the lobster, pound it
and pass it through a fine sieve, add to your sauce.

Any other kind of fish, as cod fish, &c., when cold, cut or
break them in slices, lay them in a basin, season over with salt,
pepper, nutmeg, slices of onion, parsley, a little oil and vinegar ;
put it in two hours before serving, and proceed as for lobster.

If there is any fish left from the previous day, I always make
a salad of it, particularly in summer ; there are many who object
to so much oil, in which case it may be diminished.

620. Salad Tartar. Make as usual the border of eggs and
sauce, lay the salad in the middle and the lobster over, which
has been previously cut in slices ; pour over some of the same
sauce as above, having added a tablespoonful of French mustard
to it. Gherkins cut in slices, and a few stoned olives.

621. Plain Salad. Take a lobster and any kind of salad,
wash it well, dry in a cloth, cut the lobster up in a salad-bowl,
sprinkle over it a teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, one of
chopped tarragon or chervil, or parsley, if nothing better, four
tablespoonfuls of oil, and two of common vinegar, but only one
and a half if French, add the salad, stir lightly round with a
wooden knife and fork, and it is ready.

622. Lobster served plain. Break the tail from the body,
cut the tail in two lengthwise, put the body in the middle of
the dish, lay the half tail top and bottom, and the claws on the
side ; the shell previously broken, but not disfigured, and serve
double parsley round.

623. Lobster Salad. Dress a border of hard-boiled eggs, as
directed in salad of game (No. 628), fill the centre with some
nice fresh salad, then take the flesh from a middling-sized lobster,
which cut into as large slices as possible, which put into a basin,
and season with a little pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar, after which
dress them pyramidically upon the salad, and have ready the
following sauce : put the yolks of two fresh eggs in a basin,

SAVORY DISHES. 24*7

with the yolk of a hard-boiled one rubbed through a sieve, add
half a saltspoonful of salt, and half that quantity of white pepper,
and commence stirring round with a wooden spoon with the
right hand, holding a bottle of salad oil in the left, dropping it
in by degrees and continually stirring, and when becoming thick-
ish add a couple of spoonfuls of common vinegar by degrees,
still keeping it stirred, then more oil, proceeding thus until you
have used three parts of a pint of oil, and a corresponding
quantity of vinegar, by continually working, it will form a stiffish
cream-looking sauce perfectly smooth ; add a little more season-
ing if required, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, with half
that quantity of chopped eschalots, pour over the lobster and
serve. Should the sauce curdle in making, the operation must
be again performed, putting a yolk of an egg into another basin,
working it with a little oil until forming a stiffish paste, when
stir in the curdled sauce by degrees until the whole becomes
smooth ; always choose a cool place to make it in.

624. Fish Salads. All fish salads are made precisely as in
the last, but with the exception of fillets of sole salad, are made
from the remains of fish from a previous dinner, especially turbot
and salmon ; but for fillets of soles they must be dressed thus :

When filleted, melt an ounce of butter in a saute-pan, lay the
fillets in, season with pepper and salt, and the juice of half a
lemon ; saute them on a slow fire until done, which may be
from four to five minutes, and put by to get cold ; cut in mid-
dle-sized pieces, and use as lobster.

625. New Mayonnaise Sauce. Put a quarter of a pint of
melted aspic upon ice in a stewpan, which keep whisking until
becoming a white froth, then add half a pint of salad oil and
six spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, by degrees, first oil and then
vinegar, continually whisking until it forms a white smooth
sauce, to all appearance like a cream ; season with half a tea-
spoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, and a little sugar,
whisk it a little more, and it is ready to serve ; it is usually
dressed pyramidically over the article it is served with. The
advantage of this sauce (which is more delicate than any other)
is, that you may dress it to any height you like and it will

248 SAVORY DISHES.

remain so for a long time ; if the temperature is not too hot it
will remain hours without melting or appearing greasy.

626. Tartar Sauce. Rub the yolk of a cold hard-boiled
egg through a hair sieve into a basin, to which add the yolks
of two raw eggs, with a little salt and pepper ; mix all together
with a wooden spoon ; have a pint of good salad oil in a bottle,
hold it with the left hand over the basin, dropping it in very
gradually, and with the right continue stirring it round until it
becomes rather thick, then moisten it with a little tarragon
vinegar, still keeping it stirred, then more oil, and so on until
you have used all the oil, keeping it rather thick ; then add a
tablespoonful of finely chopped gherkins, half a ditto of chopped
capers, half a ditto of chopped eschalots, and the same of
chopped parsley, two of French mustard, a little cayenne pep-
per, sugar, and more salt if required ; it is then ready for use.
This sauce requires to be rather highly seasoned. Common
vinegar may be used.

627. Salmon in marinade. Have two good slices of salmon
cut about four inches and a half in thickness, in a stewpan have
three onions cut in slices, as also a turnip, a carrot, a head of
celery cut small, a good half handful of parsley, two bay-leaves,
and two ounces of butter ; pass the whole ten minutes over a
sharp fire, then add a pint of vinegar, a blade of mace, half a
dozen peppercorns, and one ounce of salt; let simmer, then
add three pints of water, put in the salmon, which simmer
gently about half an hour, and leave in the marinade until
cold, when serve with a little of the marinade strained through
a hair sieve in the dish. Trout, mackerel, herrings, sprats, and
fillets of sole or brill, are also very nice cooked in the same
manner. A part of the above marinade may be made at any
time, and almost any kind of fish remaining from a previous
dinner may be done the same, and eaten cold.

628. Salad of Game. Boil eight eggs hard, shell them,
throw them into cold water, cut a thin slice off' the bottom to
facilitate- the proper placing of them in the dish, cut each one
into four, lengthwise, make a very thin flat border of butter

SAVORY DISHES. 249

about one inch from the edge of the dish you are going to
serve them on ; fix the pieces of egg upright, close to each
other, the yolk outside, or alternately the white and yolk ; you
lay in the centre a layer of fresh salad that may be in season,
and having previously roasted a young grouse rather underdone,
which you cut into eight or ten pieces, then prepare sauce as
follows : put a spoonful of eschalots, finely chopped, in a basin,
one ditto of pounded sugar, the yolk of one egg, a teaspoonful
of chopped parsley, tarragon, or chervil, and a quarter of an
ounce of salt, mix in by degrees with a wooden spoon, four
spoonfuls of oil and two of Chili vinegar ; when all mixed, put
it on ice, or in a cold place ; when ready to serve up, whip a
gill of cream rather thick, which lightly mix with it, then lay
the inferior parts of the grouse on the salad, sauce over so as
to cover each piece, then lay over the salad and the remainder
of the grouse ; sauce over, and serve. The eggs may be orna-
mented with a little dot of radishes on the point, or beet-root.
Anchovy and gherkin, cut into small diamonds, may be placed
between, or cut gherkins in slices, and lay a border of them
round, or in any way your fancy may dictate.

629. Salad of Fowl. Proceed as for that of game, so far
as the eggs and the salad are concerned ; then have a chicken,
which has been previously plain roasted, or in vegetables, and
cut it into ten pieces, put it into a basin, season with a tea-
spoonful of salt, quarter ditto of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of
oil, one of vinegar, one onion sliced, and a few sprigs of chopped
parsley, mix them well, and let them remain for a few hours,
if time will permit. Take the pieces of chicken, and place
in a dish with salad, as directed for grouse, with the sauce, <kc.,
and serve. Nothing is better for ball-suppers than these kinds
of dishes ; they may be made of all kinds of solid fish, and
the sauce is excellent ; any kind of cold meat, dressed round
with the sauce, may be served for supper or luncheon. It may
be served with the same sauce or dressing as for Lobster Salad
(or No. 623), or make the following one, which differs a little :
Put into a middle-sized, round-bottomed basin the yolk of two
eggs, half a spoonful of salt, quarter of one of pepper, half a
one of sugar, ditto of fine chopped onions, ditto of parsley, or
of tarragon, or of chervil, stir with the right hand with a
11*

250 SAVORY DISHES.

wooden spoon, while you pour some oil out of the bottle by
keeping your thumb on its mouth, so that it runs out very
slowly ; when a few spoonfuls are in it, it will become quite
stiff ; pour also by degrees a few spoonfuls of vinegar, and so
on until you have made enough for your salad ; try if the flavor
is good and relishing, as the quality of these two last ingredi-
ents varies so much, that I must leave it to your more simple
and correct judgment. If you should fail at first, try again
until you succeed, and I am certain you will be delighted with
the result ; it ought to be made in a cold place, particularly in
summer. Great taste should be observed in the decoration of
the border.

SHELL FISH.

Prawns are best when very red and have no spawn under the tail.

The Escalop is a fish very little used, but is exceedingly fine ; it is in
season at the same time as the oyster. It can be cooked in a variety
of ways, but previous to doing which, it should be kept some time in
salt water, so that it may free itself from any sand that may be in it ;
when opened, all the beard should be removed, and only the white, red,
and black parts used; it may be cooked and used in every way like
oysters, and is excellent with matelote of any kind of fish.

Razor Shell Fish or Solen Fish. This is the aulo of the Romans,
and a beautiful eating fish. It should also be cooked like oysters, and
makes most excellent and strengthening soup.

OYSTERS. No oyster should be eaten under four years old ; their
age is known by their shell -just the same as the age of a tree is known
by its bark, or a fish by its scale, and the small oyster has the finest
flavor.

630. Escaloped Oysters. Put two dozen of oysters with
their liquor into a stewpan, place over a fire, and when a little
firm, drain them upon a sieve, catching the liquor in another
stewpan ; detach the beard from the oysters, and throw them
again into their liquor ; add half a blade of mace, place again
upon the fire, and, when boiling, add a piece of butter the size
of a walnut, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of flour ;
shake round over the fire until becoming thick, season with a

SAVORY DISHES. 251

little cayenne, and salt if required ; have an escalop shell, well
buttered and bread-crumbed; place the oysters in, sprinkle
bread-crumbs over, put it in the oven a quarter of an hour,
pass the salamander over, and serve. The yolk of eggs may
be added, and less flour.

631. Stewed Oysters. Blanch and beard the oysters as
above ; when done, put them with their liquor in a stewpan,
with four cloves, a blade of mace, and a teaspoonful of essence
of anchovies, with a little chopped parsley and cayenne ; let sim-
mer a minute, stir in two pats of butter with which you have
mixed half a teaspoonful of flour, let simmer a little longer,
lay the oysters in your dish upon a piece of toast, and sauce
over.

632. Shrimps. Of these there are several varieties ; a diversity of
opinion exists amongst epicures of this little animal which is the best ;
but in my opinion a great deal depends on the manner of boiling, and
their freshness.

The following is the plan : I prefer them boiled ; to one gal-
lon of water put two ounces of salt, one sprig of lemon thyme
and one of mint, and let it boil ; when boiling hard, put one
quart of shrimps into an open wire or wicker basket with a han-
dle, and place it in the water : the time they take to boil de-
pends on the size of the fish, but may be known by their
changing color ; be particular not to boil them too much, or
they will be tasteless and indigestible.

633. Forcemeat. You will find this receipt so useful, and so often in
use in made dishes, soups, fish, entrees, &c., that I must beg of you to
devote to it your personal attention ; and being rather difficult to exe-
cute, be present when your cook makes it, that she may follow strictly
the receipt, which I flatter myself is rather original.

Take a pound and a half of lean veal, and cut it in long thin
slices, scrape with a knife till nothing but the skin remains ; put
it in a mortar, pound it ten minutes, or until in a puree, pass it
through a wire sieve (use the remainder in stock), then take one
pound of good fresh beef suet, which shred and chop very fine,
put it in your mortar and pound it, then add six ounces of

252 SAVORY DISHES.

panada (made as under) with the suet, pound them well to-
gether, and add the veal, season with a teaspoonful of salt,
a quarter one of pepper, half that of nutmeg, work all well to-
gether, then add five eggs by degrees, continually pounding the
contents of the mortar ; when well mixed, take a small piece in
a spoon, and poach it in some boiling water, and if it is delicate,
firm and a good flavor, it is ready for use ; if you require some
very delicate, add two tablespoonfuls of white sauce, or even
thick melted butter ; you can vary the flavor by the addition of
a spoonful of chopped parsley, eschalot, mushroom, <fec., the
flesh of rabbit or fowl, or hare, pheasant, grouse, &c., if plenti-
ful, may be added, using the ingredients in proportion. One
quarter of this quantity may be made if required.

634. Panada for Forcemeats. Put two thirds of half a pint
of water into a stewpan holding a quart, with nearly an ounce
of butter ; when boiling, stir in a quarter of a pound of flour ;
keep it moving over the fire until it forms a smooth and tough-
ish paste ; take it out of the stewpan, and when cold use it
where directed.

635. Forcemeats of Fish. These are much in use in France
and other Catholic countries, especially in Lent, but they are a
very excellent garnish for entrees of fish ; they may be made of
the flesh of almost all kinds of fish, more particularly the pike,
salmon, trout, sole, haddock, and the whiting, which last is the
most delicate.

636. Forcemeat of Whitings. Take the fillets of three
whitings, take off all the skin, and pound them well, then take
them from the mortar, and form them into a ball ; have a piece
of panada (No. 634) one third the size of the ball, put the
panada into the mortar, pound it well, then add two ounces of
fresh butter, which mix well with the panada, then add the fish,
season with pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg ; mix all
well together, then add by degrees three whole eggs and the
yolks of two, try it in a little boiling water as directed for the
forcemeat of veal. These are served generally as a meagre
dish with a fish sauce, in Catholic families, especially in Lent
time.

VEGETABLES. 253

637. Stuffing for Veal. Chop up half a pound of beef suet
very fine, put it in a basin, with eight ounces of bread-crumbs,
four ounces of chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of equal quan-
tities of powdered thyme and marjoram, and a bay-leaf, the rind
of a lemon grated, and the juice of half one ; season with pep-
per and salt, and one quarter of a nutmeg ; mix the whole with
three whole eggs ; this will do also to stuff turkey or baked
fish, adding some more chopped parsley.

VEGETABLES.

IN describing to you the different ways these may be dressed, I beg of
you to make a constant use of them at your own table, as you will find
they will be much better than partaking of half-raw greens, cabbage,
turnip-tops, spinach, <fcc., and are less inviting in flavor, and, consequently,
do not get consumed so much as they ought, which causes more meat
to be eaten, and instead of refreshing the blood, as all vegetables will
do in their season, only irritate it. Do not misunderstand me respect-
ing our English way of partaking of plain boiled vegetables ; I do not
wish you to give them up entirely, but by adopting both plans, you will
find it a great advantage in our domestic cookery. For my part, I do
not object to our plain boiled vegetables, but merely to the neglectful
way they are cooked and served up, often swimming in water. In
France, no family in the middle station of life ever dines without a dish
of dressed vegetables, upon which as much care has been bestowed in
cooking as upon the principal dish of the dinner, and is often eaten
alone.

638. Asparagus. I cook it thus: I take a bundle and
scrape lightly all the white part, beginning from the head down,
and throw them when done into cold water, then tie them up
in bundles of twenty-five each, if an ordinary size, if very large,
half that number, keeping the heads together, and cut off the
ends to make them the same length ; have ready a pan contain-
ing one gallon of boiling water, in which has been thrown two
ounces of salt, boil quickly for fifteen minutes, or till tender ;
dish them up with a piece of toast in the middle, keep the
heads in the centre, and form a pyramid. Serve very hot, with
rich melted butter, or cream sauce.

The queen of all vegetables, to my fancy, is asparagus. This may
almost be said to be a modern vegetable in this country, and it is one

254 VEGETABLES.

which requires less cooking than perhaps any other, and is considered
exceedingly wholesome.

639. Young Green Peas Young Green Peas ! Do not those words
sound pleasant to the ear, dearest ? I fancy that by merely raising my
eyes from the paper on which I am now writing, I shall see all our gar-
den in buds and blossom ; it not only seems to invigorate the sensitive
part of one's appetite, but works upon the mind to that point that you
may actually fancy you are breathing in a glowing atmosphere, and that
the pearly dew is gracefully descending in small globules from heaven,
to fix their sparkling eyes on the pinky bloom of myriads of roses. But,
alas ! how soon this charming illusion has disappeared since I have left
for a moment the sight of my paper to give a peep through the garden
window, where I perceive that though to-day is the 17th of April, the
serious and uncheerful Father Winter has once more monopolized those
delightful and varigated nuances of Nature, by laying out his universal
snowy tablecloth over this for the present ephemeral vision which the
inviting words green peas had produced upon my senses ; no doubt the
effect of a good fire in my parlor, where I am now sitting, has had a
great influence upon me respecting the summery temperature ; but as a
few weeks longer will realize my wishes, I shall here content myself by
giving 'you the receipt how they ought to be cooked when you can get
them.

When very young, I like them plain boiled, because their
original flavor is so fresh and delicate, that any addition, except
a little very fresh butter, would be certain to destroy their aro-
ma ; I even object to the introduction of green mint, though I
do not want to deprive you of it, being only a matter of taste.

Put two quarts of water to boil, with half an ounce of salt,
and then place in one pint of peas, boil a full gallop till tender
(about ten minutes), put in a colander, drain one minute ; lay
them, raised in the centre, in a dish, put in them two pats of
very fresh butter, and serve.

When older or larger, boil a little longer, add twelve leaves
of green mint, which serve with it.

640. Peas, French way. They do not look so inviting, not
being so green ; but I must say they are excellent as regards
flavor. Choose them young and fresh ; without both of these
qualities, they would not cook properly. Put in a pint of cold
water, mix the peas and butter well with your hand, add four
button onions, a bouquet of six sprigs of parsley, one ounce of
sugar, two saltspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, put it over a

VEGETABLES. 255

tolerably good fire, moving them often ; if getting rather dry,
add a wineglassful of water, twenty minutes ought to be enough
when tender; add one ounce of butter, in which you have
mixed a teaspoonful of flour, which put in it, and stir it well ;
make a liaison of the yolk of one egg, a quarter of a gill of
cream, which add and stir, take out the parsley and onions, and
serve.

Another way. When large, I stew them with two cabbage-
lettuces cut in two, and stew longer, put in four wineglassfuls of
water, or more if required, and finish as above.

To keep their color, I often proceed thus for entrees or second
courses : I plain boil as above, and put them in a stewpan, with
four small onions, a little mint, parsley, butter, sugar, and a drop
of water, simmer a few minutes, add as above the flour, butter,
and liaison, and serve ; they are very good this way, but not so
rich in flavor.

There are different kinds, but I prefer the Prussian Blue
above all.

641. Seakale. Proceed exactly as for asparagus for boiling,
but previously to boiling cut out the black part of the roots,
and well wash and tie it together, and serve with the same
sauce as asparagus. There is a kind of seakale that is rank
and stringy, and not worth eating ; it may be known, when
raw, by the outside near the root, which is very tough and
hard.

642. Sprue-grass. The longer the green part the better the
sprue ; take each piece and gently bend it, and it will break off
at that part which you require, beyond it is too hard, and can-
not be eaten ; when you thus have the pieces, cut them into
lengths of a quarter of an inch, which well wash ; have one
gallon of water, into which put one ounce of salt, and boil,
then put in the sprue and boil for ten minutes, or till tender,
then drain on a sieve, put them in a stewpan, with two ounces
of fresh butter, half a teaspoonful of flour, the same of salt,
two pinches of pepper, and place on the fire, stir well together,
and serve hot. The yolk of an egg, well beaten with two
spoonfuls of cream, may be added to it ; and when serving,

256 VEGETABLES.

also two spoonfuls of white sauce or melted butter, but I
always do it as the first.

643. Celery. Cut about ten heads of large celery from six
to seven inches long, trim the outside and cut the root to a
point, wash it very well between the leaves, tie three together,
put a gallon of water, with two ounces of salt, to boil, then
add the celery, and boil for fifteen minutes, then drain it, put
into a stewpan a small slice of bacon, and lay the celery on it,
put it on the fire for two minutes, add one onion sliced, cover
with broth until quite tender, then take it out, and dish on a
piece of toast, pass the gravy through a sieve into a stewpan,
skim off the fat, reduce it to a demi-glaze, add a little sugar
and a small pat of butter, which you have rubbed into some
flour, stir it well, and sauce over ; it ought to be thick, and of
a nice brown color, which produce, if required, by a little color-
ing. Marrow may be served with it, by taking two good pieces
of marrow, and boil for a few minutes in a quart of water, and
serve on each side the celery. It can also be cooked plain
boiled, and served with melted butter over, and also boiled in
eight tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, six of broth, and half a
teaspoonful of sugar, in which it has boiled ten minutes, or
until tender ; sauce over and serve.

644. Salsify. I do not know why this vegetable, which is
held in such high estimation on the Continent, should be so
little esteemed with us ; I will here supply their manner of
cooking it, and perhaps you will give it a fair trial. Take
twelve middling-sized ones, scrape them well till quite white,
rub each with lemon and put in cold water ; put into a stew-
pan a quarter of a pound of beef or mutton suet, cut in small
dice one onion, a little thyme, a bay-leaf, a tablespoonful of salt,
and four cloves, put on the fire and stir for five minutes, add
two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir well, then add three pints
of water, when just boiling put in your salsify, simmer till
tender ; they will take nearly one hour ; dish on toast, sauce
over with Dutch, maitre d'hotel, or onion sauce, or a very good
demi-glaze, or Italian sauce. Should any remain, they may be
made into fritters thus : put the sauce, if any, in a basin, add
a little salt, pepper, two spoonfuls of vinegar, half a chopped

VEGETABLES. 25*7

eschalot, and a spoonful of oil, place in the salsify, and let it
remain for some hours, when ready to serve, make a small
quantity of batter, dip each piece in it, and fry for five minutes
in lard or fat, dish up with fried parsley over.

645. Vegetable Marrow. Choose eight young small ones,
with smooth skin, and put them to boil in two quarts of water,
in which you have put one ounce of salt, the same of butter,
try with a needle if tender, then dish them tastefully on mashed
potatoes in a dish, put half a pint of melted butter in a pan
when near boiling, add a liaison of a yolk of an egg, two pats
of butter, a little sugar, the juice of half a lemon, sauce over
and serve ; if they are rather large, cut them in two length-
wise ; if in smaller pieces, take all the inside out and boil till
tender, and warm in the above sauce. You can also make a
nice demi-glaze, as No. 132, and let them simmer in it for
twenty minutes ; do not break them, as they would then be
unsightly ; they can be made into soup like cauliflower (No.
207).

646. Cauliflower and Broccoli. Be very particular in clean-
ing them, choose them rather small, thick and firm, put them
for one hour in salt and water, then rinse them well in water,
that all the dirt may be removed from the interior ; have a pan
of boiling water, in which you have placed two ounces of salt
and one of butter, drain and use where indicated ; but if for
second course, place them on a dish in the form of a dome,
and cover over with some sauce as for vegetable marrow or
plain melted butter, or Soubise sauce if preferred plain ; serve
it very hot, having drained it.

647. The same gratine with Cheese. Put into a stewpan
ten spoonfuls of white sauce, No. 130, with a little chopped
onions, which boil for a few minutes, add to it a quarter of a
pound of grated Parmesan, or any mild English cheese ; when
boiling, add the yolk of one egg, and a little cayenne, mix
quick, lay a little on a dish, put two or three heads of cauli-
flower or broccoli on it, pour the remainder of sauce over, and
a little bread-crumbs and grated cheese; put in oven half

258 VEGETABLES.

an hour, give it a nice yellow color, and serve ; if no wliite
sauce, use melted butter, but do not boil it so long, or it will
eat rather greasy.

648. Jerusalem Artichokes. One of the best and most use-
ful vegetables ever introduced to table, and anything but ap-
preciated as it deserves to be. To prove to you that I am a
great admirer of it, you will find it very often mentioned in my
receipts. In using them for a second course, I choose about
twelve of the same size, peel them and shape them like a pear,
but flat at the bottom, wash them well, boil gently in three
pints of water, one ounce of salt, one of butter, and a few sliced
onions ; when tender, I make a border of mashed potatoes on
a dish, fix them on it point upwards, sauce over with either
cream sauce (No. 280), white sauce (No. 130), melted butter
(No. 264), maitre d'hotel, and place a fine Brussels sprout
between each, which contrast is exceedingly inviting, simple,
and pretty.

649. Cucumbers are most delicious stuffed and stewed, but
very difficult to dress, and consequently chiefly used for entrees,
in which series they will be found. They may, however, be
treated like vegetable marrow.

650. Artichokes. Pull the tail off four or six small arti-
chokes, trim the bottom slightly with a knife, cut the point of
every leaf, wash well in plain water, put them on in plenty of
water, with a little salt, to boil, let them thus remain about half
an hour, or until the leaves are easy to be removed, take them
out and lay on a sieve to drain, and serve on a napkin, with
melted butter separate.

651. Beet-root. This is a very good dish, and, as I believe
it has never been noticed in cookery, I must lay claim to its
parentage ; I have given the receipt to some friends, who highly
approve of it. Take two nice young boiled beet-roots, which
will take about from two to three hours to simmer in plenty of
boiling water, peel when cold, cut in slanting direction, so as to
make oval pieces, peel and cut in small dice two middling-sized

VEGETABLES. 259

onions, put in a pan, with two ounces of butter, fry white,
stirring continually with a spoon ; acid a spoonful of flour, and
enough milk to make a nice thickish sauce, add to it three salt-
spoonfuls of salt, four of sugar, one of pepper, a spoonful of
good vinegar, and boil a few minutes ; put in the slices to sim-
mer for about twenty minutes, have ready some mashed pota-
toes, with which make a neat border in your dish one inch
high, then put the beet-root and sauce, highly season in the
centre, and serve.

652. French Beans. These are also a great favorite with
many. To dress it, head and tail them, drawing off the back
string, cut in long diamonds, boil till tender in water in which
salt has been placed, a quarter of a pound to a gallon, try them
after a quarter of an hour's boiling, drain them, lay them on a
dish one inch thick, sprinkle with a little salt, pepper, and two
pats of butter, then put in the remainder, proceed the same at
top ; serve very quickly, to prevent the butter oiling.

653. The same, a la Maitre d* Hotel. When boiled as above,
put in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of maitre d'hotel
butter, when melted serve. They may be also served with
white sauce thus : put in a stewpan eight spoonfuls of melted
butter, season well, simmer gently, add the yolk of an egg, two
ounces of butter, juice of half a lemon, and serve.

654. Kidney Beans. Head and tail them, string and slit
them down the middle, place them for half an hour in salt and
water in which you have thrown a little culinary alkali, boil
until tender, and serve with melted butter, or a la maitre
d'hotel.

655. Broad or Windsor Beans. Boil in salt and water :
when done, serve with parsley and butter, or with a piece of
bacon.

656. Brussels Sprouts. Trim, wash, and boil about forty
small Brussels sprouts ; when tender, drain, dish, and sprinkle a

260 VEGETABLES.

little salt, pepper, and two ounces of butter over, and serve.
Serve also in sauce, or with maitre d'hotel, like French beans.
These are also very good for soups, sauces, or garnish.

657. Spinach. This vegetable is very light and very good
for invalids. It must be washed in several waters, after having
been well picked; then put a quarter of a sieve of spinach to,
a gallon of water and three ounces of salt, boil for ten minutes 1
till tender, drain on sieve, press a little with your hands to ex-
tract part of the water, chop it up fine, put in a stewpan, with
a quarter of a pound of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto
of pepper, put on a fire with a drop of warm broth for a few
minutes, and serve.

658. Spinach with Gravy. Proceed as before, but add a
tablespoonful of flour and half a pint of strong gravy in it, as
No. 177 ; serve with sippets of bread round.

659. Spinach with Cream. Proceed as before, but putting
half a pint of milk or cream instead of gravy, and the addition
of a tablespoonful of sugar, cut three slices of bread, lay on dish,
sift sugar over, put in oven, salamander over, cut in various
shapes, and serve under or over the spinach.

660. Young Haricot Beans. Take a pint, boil in two quarts
of water, with a small piece of butter, and half an ounce of
salt ; when done, which will take only a few minutes, dish and
serve ; put butter over, sprinkle a little salt, and when on the
dish, a gill of maitre d'hotel sauce or fennel sauce may be served
over the larger one, or it is very delicious plain boiled, and with
a piece of ham or bacon.

661. White Haricot Beans. Nothing so cheap or so solid
a food as haricot beans ; get a pint of fine white beans, called
the dwarf I buy them for fourpence a quart. I put them into
half a gallon of cold soft water, with one ounce of butter ; they
take about three hours to cook, and should simmer very slowly,

VEGETABLES. 261

drain them and put into a stewpan with a little salt, pepper,
chopped parsley, two ounces of butter, and the juice of a lemon,
place on the fire for a few minutes, stir well, and serve. The
water in which it is boiled will not make a bad soup by frying
four onions in butter in a stewpan, adding a little flour, then the
water poured over, and a slice of toasted bread, cut in pieces,
and served in a tureen. Should the water in boiling reduce too
fast, add a little more. They may be dressed for second course,
a la Bretonne, as for leg. The longer sort requires to be soak-
ed a few hours before boiling.

662. Mushrooms. These are good every way when fresh ;
for a dish take about fifty button, cut the roots off, wash and
rub the skin off with a cloth, cut them in slices the size of a
shilling, tail and all, put them in a stewpan, with two ounces of
butter, a small teaspoonful of salt, two pinches of pepper, and
the juice of half a lemon, put them on the fire, simmer till ten-
der, and dish them up on a nice crisp toast ; should you require
any sauce, add, when nearly done, half a spoonful of flour, a
gill of broth, milk, or cream, or even water, stew a few minutes
longer, pour over toast and serve.

If very large, they should have been carefully picked, for if
the dirt should have got into the under part it is difficult to re-
move it ; cut off the end of the tail and peel the top, put them
on a gridiron, season moderately with salt and pepper, turn
them, and when done serve them on a very hot dish, and put on
each a piece of butter the size of a nut, and a squeeze of a lemon,
put in a hot oven for a minute, or before the fire, and serve ; a
little Harvey's or Soyer's sauce is an improvement. They may
also be put in an oven, by laying them in a saute-pan or tin
dish, put a little butter and season over each, and a drop of
Harvey's sauce, and let them remain twenty minutes, and serve
with gravy over.

663. Lentils. Put into a stewpan one quart, add two quarts
of cold water, one ounce of butter, a little salt, one onion sliced,
a bouquet of parsley, set on the fire, simmer till tender, which
may be in two hours ; when done, drain in a sieve, and save
the liquor, which can be made into a soup like the haricots (see

262 VEGETABLES.

receipt No. 661) ; put the lentils in a stewpan, with two ounces
of butter, a little salt, sugar, pepper, and a tablespoonful of
chopped eschalots, set it on the fire, put in butter and flour,
mix well, boil ten minutes gently, and dish in a border of po-
tatoes or in a deep dish.' It may also be done thus : by frying
till brown one onion, sliced in a stewpan, put in the boiled len-
tils, with two ounces of butter, a little flour, a gill of gravy, and
season as above, stir well, boil, and serve hot.

Gabanza or Egyptian bean may be cooked in the same way.

664. English Truffles. Put twelve of them to soak for four
hours in lukewarm water ; then with a hard hair-brush remove
all the earth from them ; then wash again, put them into a
stewpan, with a few slices of bacon, two onions, half a head of
celery, half a carrot, a clove of garlic, two bay-leaves, a sprig
of thyme, four of parsley, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, a
half of pepper, two glasses of sherry, and a pint of broth ; let
them simmer for half an hour or more, but till tender ; place
them in the oven for twenty minutes longer, remove the truffles
and place them on a dish ; have a little mashed potatoes, and
make a border, and place the truffles on in pyramid to pre-
vent them moving, strain the gravy they were in, skim off the
fat, reduce it to about a gill, put in a teaspoonful of arrow-root
in a cup, with a spoonful of water, mix it, and put to the
gravy, boil a few minutes, pour over, and serve.

I peeled some of them, cooked the same way, they eat
better ; but they did not look so well.

665. Saute of the same. After having washed them, I peel
them and cut into thin slices, and put about one pound of them
into a stewpan ; I then add a quarter of a pound of butter, a
teaspoonful of salt, half one of sugar, a quarter ditto of nutmeg,
warm over the fire, add a gill of broth, a little flour, mixed with
a little butter, stir in, boil, and serve on toast ; or proceed as
above, adding a gill of demi-glaze. They can be served with
any entrees when properly done, and in all cases can be used
instead of mushrooms.

666. To cook Sourcrout. Put a quart of sourcrout, with a

VEGETABLES. 263

fat piece of bacon or pork, into an earthen pan, with sufficient
water to cover it, stew for four or five hours, and serve with
pork or fried sausages ; it is better the second day. It may be
procured in any good oil-shop in the winter.

667. Sourcrout, Bavarian way. Well wash one quart of
sourcrout, and put it into an earthen pan with a quarter of a
bottle of Rhenish wine or any other light wine, and stew it for
three hours ; then add some veal gravy, well seasoned, and stew
for three hours longer, and serve with sausages, or when you
add the veal stock, put in a duck or a goose, and serve with it.

668. Laver is a marine plant (the Ulvce Lactuca), which is obtain-
ed, in London, from the West of England ; in Dublin, from Malahide ;
Edinburgh, from Aberdeen. It is merely washed, boiled, pulped, and
potted by the fishermen's wives. It is considered wholesome, but I see
nothing particular in it that can make it so unless it is the small quan-
tity of iodine that it contains. It should be dressed like spinach (No.
658), and sent up very hot in a dish over a spirit-lamp, and is generally
served with mutton. The following is a new plan I have introduced for
cooking it, which has been liked by those persons who formerly disliked
it.

Have some mashed potatoes as No. 672, roll it out the thick-
ness of a quarter of an inch, cover it with some cold stewed laver
nicely seasoned, put another layer of mashed potatoes over, and
allow it to get quite cold, when cut it in square pieces, egg,
bread-crumb, and proceed as for ramifolles.

POTATOES. This root still bears its original American name, sig-
nifying earth-apple, and is divided into many species. Amongst those
most common in use are the regent, ash-leaf, kidney ; but, in the sister
kingdom, Ireland, many other varieties are in use ; as the lumper, reds,
and blacks. There are as many different ways of cooking them as
there are different species, which I will now describe.

669. Plain Soiled or Steamed Potatoes. Well wash the
potatoes and peel them, and throw them into cold water (that
depends upon the kind, if new or young, or a kidney, they
should be cooked immediately after they are peeled, whilst
others require to remain a long time in soak) ; have ready a
steamer with boiling water in it, put the potatoes on the top,

264 VEGETABLES.

and steam for twenty to thirty minutes, and serve. Should you
not have a steamer, and are obliged to boil them, do so by put-
ting them into plenty of boiling water, and boil till tender or
breaking, then pour them out into a colander, put a cloth over
them, and put them in the screen, or before the fire, until you
are ready to serve them ; they ought always to be sent to table
very hot.

670. Baked Potatoes. This is a very favorite dish with
many persons ; they ought to be of a large size, called Regents,
and when cooked very floury. Mr. B. tells me he some-
times lunches at a house in the city where the proprietor grows
that sort in particular for the use of his customers, and he finds
them better if he leaves them in the ground where they grow
until wanted, and he has about three days' consumption taken
up at a time. They are merely well washed, and put into a
slow oven for about thirty minutes, or longer if large, and served
with a pat of butter in a plate.

671. Fried Potatoes. The long kidney potato is the best
for this purpose ; they should be washed and peeled, and cut
into very thin slices, and thrown into boiling fat until a nice
light brown color ; dish up very hot, throwing a little salt over.
The remains of cold ones may be cut into slices and fried in
the same way, or they may be dipped into batter, and fried like
fritters.

672. Mashed Potatoes. Steam about ten fine potatoes for
about thirty-five minutes, put them into a stewpan or bowl, with
two ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, a smaller spoonful
of pepper, and half a pint of milk, and beat them very well up
with a large fork, then add by degrees a gill of milk, and con-
tinue beating, and dish them lightly on a dish. Should you
require to keep them warm, do so in a stewpan. I do not ap-
prove of putting them into moulds and then in the oven, as it
makes- them heavy.

673. Potatoes a la Maitre d'Hotel. With young potatoes
they are excellent. Boil ten middle-sized ones cut in slices of

VEGETABLES. 265

a quarter of an inch thick, put in the stewpan half a pint of
milk or the same of broth, a little salt, pepper, grated nutmeg,
and a tablespoonful of fresh chopped parsley, then simmer on
fire ; when boiling, add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter,
the juice of a lemon, stir well for a few minutes ; when each
piece is well covered with the sauce, dish up, and high in the
centre, as they must appear light.

674. Lyonnaise. The remains of cold potatoes may be used
thus : Put three ounces of butter in an omelette pan, in which
you fry rather white three sliced onions ; put on the potatoes,
cut in thin slices about the size of half a crown, and saute them
now and then until they have a nice yellow color ; add a spoon-
ful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon,
saute well that it should mix well together, dish and serve very
hot ; they are excellent to serve with chop, steak, or any joint.

675. Irish way of lolling . In Ireland, where this root has
been for so long a period the chief nourishment of the people,
and where it takes the place of bread and other more substan-
tial food, it is cooked so that it may have, as they call it, a bone
in it ; that is, that the middle of it should not be quite cooked.
They are done thus : Put a gallon of water with two ounces
of salt, in a large iron pot, boil for about ten minutes, or until
the skin is loose, pour the water out of the pot, put a dry cloth
on the top of the potatoes, and place it on the side of the fire
without water for about twenty minutes, and serve. In Ireland
turf is the principal article of fuel, which is burnt on the flat
hearth ; a little of it is generally scraped up round the pot so
as to keep a gradual heat, by this plan the potato is both boiled
and baked. Even in those families where such a common art
of civilized life as cooking ought to have made some progress,
the only improvement they have upon this plan is, that they
leave the potatoes in the dry pot longer, by which they lose the
bone. They are always served up with the skins on, and a small
plate is placed by the side of each guest.

676. To blanch Macaroni. Have half a gallon of water in
a stewpau, in which put two ounces of butter and an ounce of

266 VEGETABLES.

salt ; when boiling, throw in a pound of macaroni, which boil
until tender, being careful that it is not too much done ; the
time of boiling depends principally upon the quality, the Genoa
macaroni taking the longest time, and the Neapolitan the shortest,
which last, if too much done, will fall in puree.

677. Macaroni a Vltalienne. Boil half a pound of macaroni
as above ; when done, lay it on a sieve to dry for one minute,
put it in a pan, with four spoonfuls of white sauce, add half a
teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, a little cayenne,
toss the macaroni over the fire ; when boiling, add two ounces
each of grated Parmesan and Gruyere cheese, toss round and
round until well mixed, then serve with a gill of very strong
gravy around it.

678. Macaroni au Gratin. Proceed the same as above ;
but after you have put the macaroni on the dish, omit the gravy,
and cover it slightly with bread-crumbs, and about the same
quantity of Parmesan cheese grated, a little butter, and then
put in a hot oven for a quarter of an hour ; if not hot enough,
pass the salamander over it, and serve very hot.

679. Macaroni a la Napolitaine. Boil half a pound of the
best quality of macaroni for half an hour, as at No. 736 ; when
tender, lay one quarter of it on the dish you intend to serve ;
have ready two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, which you
divide into four parts to lay over each layer of macaroni, then
put over it two tablespoonfuls of strong gravy, made of half
glaze and consomme, put the dish in the oven for ten minutes,
and serve very hot.

680. The real Italian method (called a rfistoufade).Boi\
and proceed as before, but make the gravy as follows, and use
it instead of the preceding. Take two pounds of rump of beef
larded through, put in a small stewpan, with one quarter of a
pound of butter, fry gently for one hour, turning almost con-
tinually ; when forming a glaze add half a pint of broth, let
simmer another hour, take the fat off, and use that gravy instead

VEGETABLES. 267

of that above described ; a little tomato may be introduced if
handy, serve the beef at the same time in a separate dish.

681. Fried Mashed Potatoes in various shapes. Roast twelve
fine potatoes ; when done, take out the interior, which form into
a ball ; when cold, put them into a mortar, with a piece of but-
ter half the size of the ball ; pound them well together, season
with a little salt, pepper, chopped eschalots, chopped parsley,
and grated nutmeg, mix them with the yolks of six, and two
whole eggs ; then form them into croquettes about the size and
shape of a small egg, and bread-crumb them twice over, and
fry them to a light brown color in a stewpan of hot lard, and
serve as garniture where required.

682. To boil Rice. Wash well in two separate waters a
pound of the best Carolina rice, then have two quarts of water
boiling in a stewpan, into which throw your rice, boil it until
three parts done, then drain it on a sieve ; butter the interior of
a stewpan, in which put your rise, place the lid on tight, and
put it in a warm oven upon a trivet until the rice is perfectly
tender, or by the side of the fire ; serve it separate with curry,
or any other dish where required. Prepared thus, every grain
will be separate and quite white.

683. Chopping of Herbs, <&c. This may appear a very simple
thing to do well, yet it is often done badly, by which the flavor
is lost. They should be well washed and dried, and then take
the leaves in the left hand, pressing upon the leaves with your
fingers, and chop as fine as possible, not by placing the point
of the knife on the board and raising it and letting it fall, but
with a good sharp cut, so that they are cut, not pressed. Onions
should be peeled, and cut in halves lengthwise, and then with
a thin knife cut each half in slices, leaving them joined at the
root; again cut into slices contrarywise, and then from top to
bottom ; thus having cut into very small squares, chop it with
both hands with the knife. You may also wash them ; when
half-chopped press them in a cloth, and chop them still finer.

268 PASTRY.

OF DIFFERENT SORTS OF PASTRY.

THE variety of pastes is to the pastry what first stocks are to soups
and sauces, and must be very properly first described, particularly as it
is here I must refer my readers for paste even used for the hors-d'oeuvre
and entrees ; to succeed you must be particular in your proportions, and
very careful in the mixing ; for, although there is nothing more simple
if pains be taken, so will the least neglect produce a failure, nor is it
only with the making of the paste that pains must be taken, but likewise
with the baking, for as paste badly made would not improve in baking,
neither will paste, however well made, be good if badly baked ; should
the oven be too hot the paste will become set and burn before it is done ;
and, again, if too cold it would give the paste a dull heavy appearance,
but an oven properly heated (which can be readily known by a little
attention on the part of those in the habit of using it) will give it a clear
brilliant appearance.

For every description of pastry made from puff paste, try if the oven
is hot by placing your hand about half-way in, and hold it there about
a quarter of a minute, if you can hold it there that time without incon-
venience it would not be hot enough ; but if you cannot judge of the
heat, the safest method would be, try a piece of the paste previous to
baking the whole ; I apply these few observations to all my friends, but
particularly to the uninstructed, as a person of continual practice cannot
fail to be aware of the truth of them.

684. Puff Paste. Put one pound of flour upon your pastry
slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put the yolk of one
egg and the juice of a lemon, with a pinch of salt, mix it with
cold water (iced in summer, if convenient) into a softish flexible
paste, with the right hand dry it off a little with flour until you
have well cleared the paste from the slab, but do not work it
more than you can possibly help, let remain two minutes upon
the slab ; then have a pound of fresh butter from which you
have squeezed all the buttermilk in a cloth, bringing it to the
same consistency as the paste, upon which place it ; press it out
with the hand, then fold over the edges of the paste so as to
hide the butter, and roll it with the rolling-pin to the thickness
of a quarter of an inch, thus making it about two feet in length,
fold over one third, over which again pass the rolling-pin ; then
fold over the other third, thus forming a square, place it with
the ends top and bottom before you, shaking a little flour both
under and over, and repeat the rolls and turns twice again as
before ; flour a baking-sheet, upon which lay it, upon ice or in

PASTRY.

269

some cool place (but in summer it would be almost impossible
to make this paste well without ice) for half an hour ; then roll
twice more, turning it as before, place again upon the ice a
quarter of an hour, give it two more rolls, making seven in all,
and it is ready for use when required, rolling it whatever thick-
ness (according to what you intend making) directed in the fol-
lowing receipts. When I state that upwards of a hundred dif-
ferent kinds of cakes may be made from this paste, I am sure
it will be quite sufficient to urge upon every cook the necessity
of paying every attention to its fabrication, as it will repay for
the study and trouble.

685. Puff Paste, with Beef Suet. Where you cannot ob-
tain good butter for making paste, the following is an excellent
substitute ; skin and chop one pound of kidney beef suet very
fine, put it into a mortar and pound it well, moistening with a
little oil, until becoming as it were one piece, and about the
consistency of butter, proceed exactly as in the last, using it
instead of butter.

686. Half Puff Paste. Put one pound of flour upon your
pastry slab, with two ounces of butter, rub well together with
the hands, make a hole in the centre, in which put a pinch of
salt and the yolk of an egg with the juice of a lemon ; mix
with water as before, then roll it out thin and lay half a pound
of butter (prepared as for puff paste) rolled into thin sheets
over, fold it in three, roll and fold again twice over, lay it in a
cold place a quarter of an hour, give another roll, and it is
ready for use where required ; this paste is mostly used for fruit
tarts, for which it is well adapted.

687. Short Paste, or Pate a foncer. Put a pound of best
flour upon your pastry slab, make a hole in the centre, in which
put an ounce of salt, half a pound of fresh butter, and sufficient
water to form a stiff paste, mix well together, and it is ready
for use where directed.

688. Short Paste for Fruit Tarts. Put a pound of flour
upon your pastry slab with six ounces of butter, and rub them

270 PASTRY.

well together ; then make a hole in the centre, in which put
two ounces of powdered sugar, two whole eggs, and a large
wineglassful of water, mix the eggs, sugar, and water well,
then drown in the flour and mix together, and work it
lightly.

689. Pate d> Office, or Confectioner's Paste. Weigh half a
pound of flour, which put upon your slab, make a hole in the
centre, in which put six ounces of sifted sugar, mix it well
with four eggs into a stiffish paste, having first well dissolved
the sugar with the eggs, work it well, it is then ready for
use.

This paste was very much used when pieces montes were so
much in vogue, but in the several receipts in which it is referred
to, it is used upon quite a new principle, and very much sim-
plified ; this paste, with the above proportions, ought to be very
stiff, but still pliable enough to be worked without breaking ;
should it be too stiff add more eggs, or too soft more flour ;
the half or quarter of the above quantity may of course be
made.

690. Vols-au- Vent of all things in pastry require the most
care and precision; they that can make a good vol-au-vent
may be stamped as good pastrycooks, although many variations
in working puff paste, all others are of secondary importance.
Make a pound of puff paste, giving it seven rolls and a half,
leave it an inch in thickness, make a mark upon the top either
round or oval, and according to the size of your dish ; then,
with a sharp-pointed knife, cut it out from the paste, holding
the knife with the point slanting outwards ; turn it over, mark
the edges with the back of your knife, and place it upon a
baking-sheet, which you have sprinkled with water ; egg over
the top, then dip the point of the knife 1 into hot water, and cut
a ring upon the top a quarter of an inch deep, and half an
inch from the edge of the vol-au-vent, set in a rather hot oven,
if getting too much color, cover over with a sheet of paper, do
not take it out before done, or it would fall, but when quite set,
cut off the lid, and empty it with a knife ; be careful to make
no hole in the side or bottom ; if for first course it is ready, but
if for second sift sugar all over, which glaze with the salaman-

PASTRY. 271

der. Regulate the thickness of the paste from which you cut
the vol-au-vent, according to the size you require it, the smaller
ones of course requiring thinner paste. A vol-au-vent for en-
trees will take about half an hour to bake, and as the common
iron ovens often throw out more heat upon one side than the
other, it will require turning two or three times to cause it to
rise equal ; it ought to be when baked of a light gold color.

691. Vol-au-Vent of Peaches. Put half a pound of sugar
in a sugar-pan, with the juice of a lemon and about half a pint
of water, place it upon the fire and boil till becoming a thickish
syrup ; then have eight peaches not quite ripe, which cut in
halves, break their stones and blanch the kernels, throw six
halves with the kernels into the syrup, boil three minutes, take
them out with a skimmer, lay them upon a dish and take off
their skins, stew the rest in syrup in like manner, four at a time ;
when all done pour what liquor runs from them again into the
syrup, which reduce to a good thickness, pass it through a
tammy into a basin, when cold pour a little over the peaches
and leave until ready to serve ; dress the peaches in your vol-
au-vent with the syrup over. This is a receipt I learnt in
France, where I got peaches for a sou each.

692. Vol-au-Vent with Fruit. These are generally used
for the second course, and do not require to be so high as the
other, especially as the fruit ought to be dressed in the form of
a pyramid, if they are cut about three quarters of an inch in
thickness it will be enough ; when nearly done, sift some pow-
dered sugar over them, and put it back in the oven to glaze
well, if not hot enough use the salamander ; remove the inte-
rior, taking care not to make a hole in the bottom or sides, and
fill with any kind of fruit you like, but never mix two kinds
together, except currant and raspberry.

693. Sweet Vol-au- Vent with Rhubarb. In the spring of
the year, this makes a very inviting and wholesome dish, and
its qualities purify the blood, which the winter's food has ren-
dered gross ; cut about twelve sticks of rhubarb into lengths of

272 PASTRY.

one inch, put it in a stewpan holding about two quarts, put over
it a quarter of a pound of sugar, and a tablespoonful of water,
set it on a sharp fire, stirring it, do not let it get brown, or it
would spoil and lose its flavor ; it will take but a few minutes
to do ; when tender, put it in a basin to cool ; a few minutes
before serving, fill the vol-au-vent with it, and serve cold.

694. Ditto, with green Gooseberries. A quart of green
gooseberries, a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, the juice
of half a lemon, and a tablespoonful of water, put on the fire
and move it about for ten minutes, or till tender, and forming
a thick green marmalade, put it in a basin till cold, serve in
pyramid in the vol-au-vent; a little thick syrup, if handy,
poured over, improves the appearance.

695. Ditto, with Orange. Well peel six oranges, removing
all the pith, divide each into six or eight pieces, put them in a
pan, with a quarter of a pound of sugar, and the juice of one
orange, set it on a slow fire, with the cover on, stir it now and
then ; ten minutes will be sufficient time for it, take out the
pieces one after the other, lay them in a basin, reduce your
syrup to a proper thickness, when ready to serve, dish your
pieces of orange in it, and pour over the syrup.

696. Another method. Make a thick syrup with half a
pound of sugar, put in your pieces by a dozen at a time, just
give them a boiling, remove them on a sieve, then add the other
pieces, when all done, add the juice, which pass through a sieve,
and back again to the pan, boil till a proper thickness, dish up
and serve the syrup over.

697. Ditto, a still plainer method. Have the pieces of
orange ready, and put in a stewpan a quarter of a pound of
sugar, a wineglass of brandy or rum, stir it well a few minutes,
and serve with the liquor poured over.

698. Ditto, with Cherries. Stone one pound of cherries,

PASTRY. 273

and put in a pan, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar,
stew for five minutes, take them down, drain, then reduce the
syrup till thick, and pour over at the moment of serving.

699. Ditto, with Strawberries. Pick two pottles of very
fresh strawberries, not too ripe, put them in with two ounces of
powdered sugar, a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, toss them
gently in a basin, and serve immediately in your vol-au-vent.

700. Ditto, with Apples. This fruit being procurable all
the year renders it one of very great convenience ; Ribstone
pippins are the best : cut in four, peel them, put a pint of
syrup, when boiling, put in your apples, with the peel of half
a lemon, and the juice of a whole one, let simmer till tender,
put it in a basin, boil the syrup to a white jelly, let it stand till
cold, put the apple in the vol-au-vent, and pour the syrup
(cold) or jelly over ; serve a few ornaments made with very
green angelica.

701. Another method. Cut any kind of apple, rather thin,
put over a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, the rind of
a lemon chopped, the juice of the same, one ounce of butter,
and a glass of sherry, put on the fire, toss till tender, but keep
it very white, put it in a basin, when cold dish in your vol-au-
vent ; whip a gill of good cream, add ten drops of orange-
flower water in it, cover over carefully and serve.

Apple saute with butter, in this way may be served hot in
the vol-au-vent. Any kind of plums or apricots, when plenti-
ful, may be done the same as cherries, and served the same
way.

702. Little Fruit Rissolettes. I also make with the trim-
mings of puff paste the following little cakes : if you have about
a quarter of a pound of puff paste left, roll it out very thin, about
the thickness of half a crown, put half a spoonful of any mar-
malade on it, about one inch distance from each other, wet
lightly round them with a paste-brush, and place a piece of
paste over all, take a cutter of the size of a crown piece, and
press round the part where the marmalade or jam is, with the

12*

274 PASTRY.

thick part of the cutter, to make the paste stick, then cut them
out with one a size larger, lay them on a baking-tin, egg over,
then cut a little ring in paste, the size of a shilling, put it on
them, egg over again, place in a nice hot oven for twenty min-
utes, then sugar over with finely sifted sugar, so as to make it
quite white all over, then put back into the oven to glaze : should
the oven not be sufficiently hot, take a salamander, or, for the
want of one, a red-hot shovel, full of live coals, may be used ;
serve in the form of a pyramid. A little currant jelly in the
ring looks well.

703. Flanc of Fruit. This requires a mould the same as
No. 602 ; it must be well wiped with a cloth, butter it, then
take the remains of puff paste, and roll it well so as to deaden
it, then roll it out a size larger than your mould, and about a
quarter of an inch thick, place your mould on a baking-tin, put
the paste carefully in the mould and shape it well, to obtain all
the form of the mould, without making a hole in it ; put a piece
of paper at the bottom, fill with flour to the top, and bake a
nice color ; it will take about half an hour, then take out the
flour and paper, open the mould, and fill it.

704. Flancs, with any kind of fruit, like a vol-au-vent, are
more easily made, and are equally as good a side dish. This may
be made of half-puff or short paste, and fill with raw cherries and
some pounded sugar over : bake together. Greengages, apri-
cots, or any kind of plums, will require a hotter oven than for
flour only in it, the fruit giving moisture to the paste ; if baked
in a slow oven will be heavy, and consequently indigestible.

705. Another. If you have no mould, make a quarter of a
pound of paste (No. 688), roll it round or oval to your fancy, a
quarter of an inch thick, wet the edge all round about half an
inch, raise that part and pinch it round with your thumbs and
fingers, making a border all round, put on a baking-sheet, fill
with fruit one row, if large two ; remove the stones, and sift
sugar over according to the acidity of the fruit ; it will take less
time, too, than if in a mould : you see what variation can be
made with very little trouble or expense.

PASTRY. 2*75

706. Flanc of Apples. I just perceive that I had forgot to
give you a few receipts in this way of cake, which I make very
pretty when we have a party. Take eight Ripstone pippins, cut
in four, peel a nice shape, rub with lemon, put half a pound of
sugar in a pan, cover with cold water, juice of a lemon ; boil till
rather thick, then add half the apples, simmer till tender, put
them on a plate, do the remainder the same way, reduce the
syrup a little, put the apples in a basin, pour syrup over : when
cold, dish in pyramid in the crust, which you have prepared as
No. 703, pour over the syrup, which should be a jelly. I often
cut in fine strips the rind of a lemon or orange, boil with the
apples, and ornament also with pieces of young angelica pre-
served, cut in diamond, placing a piece between each apple.
Flancs of pears may be made precisely the same way, but with
good ripe eating pears cut in two lengthwise, leaving the stalk
cut in half.

707. A plainer way. Peel and cut eight apples in thin
slices in a pan, with two ounces of pounded sugar, the rind and
juice of a lemon, the rind well chopped, put on fire, stir till
forming a thick marmalade, and tender, melt a little currant
jelly, pour over and serve.

708. Small Fruit Tarts. The next in order to sweet vol-
au-vents, and which are easier to make, are tartlets, their ap-
pearance being inviting, and their expense limited, and very
easy to serve. They may be made from the trimmings of any
putf paste which remains, should be enveloped in paper, and
kept in a cold place, or in the flour tub. Make them as fol-
lows : Have ready twelve or more small tartlet pans, which but-
ter, line each with a bit of puff paste cut with a cutter the size of a
crown piece, force up the edges with your thumb and finger, put
a small ball (made of flour and water) in each, bake them nicely
in a very hot oven ; when done take out the ball (which may
be kept for other occasions), the tartlets, and shake powdered
sugar over the bottom of each, and glaze with a salamander,
turn them over, and shake sugar in the interior, which also
salamander ; fill with any kind of preserve, marmalade, or fruit,
for sweet vol-au-vents. They may be made with cream as fol-
lows : Make your tartlets as before, placing cream instead of

276 PASTRY.

the ball of flour, made thus : put half a pint of milk in a stew-
pan, when boiling, add half a stick of vanilla, reduce the milk
to half in another stewpan, have the yolks of two eggs and a
quarter of an ounce of powdered sugar, and one ounce of sifted
flour, with a grain of salt, pour in the milk, taking out the va-
nilla, place over a slow fire, keep stirring till it thickens ; when
cold, fill the tartlets, and bake nicely in a moderate oven ; when
cold, add a little jam, have ready a meringue of four eggs (see
ISTo. 711), lay a teaspoonful of each upon them, spreading it
quite flat with a knife, ornament the top with some of the mix-
ture, put into a paper cornet, sift sugar over, place in a slow
oven till a light brown color, and the meringue quite crisp; if
the oven is too hot, cover with a sheet of paper, dress, and serve
in pyramid upon your dish. They ought to be of a light color.

709. Rissole Fourree. This is made as the rissole for en-
trees ; it is a very simple receipt, and I vary it continually
without the slightest difficulty ; instead of making it with orange
I substitute apricot marmalade, apple, raspberry, strawberry, or
greengage jam ; but no jelly, as currant or apple, as it would
run through the paste and look bad. To vary the appearance
at table, instead of egging, dust them lightly over with some
coarse powdered sifted sugar, then bake them white instead of
brown ; if the oven is too hot cover with a sheet of paper, put a
little marmalade or jam in a ring which you have selected, and
serve. By blanching and chopping a few pistachios, and mix-
ing with the sugar, makes them look very inviting, or even
chopped sweet almonds changes the flavor ; they may also be
filled with any preparation of cream, rice, or vermicelli, prepared
as for croquets. I also change them by sauteing, as they are
much quicker done, and make a very nice dish. To remove the
roast of the second course, I put six at a time in the saute -pan
(see page 62), which must be hot, and saute a few minutes un-
til a nice pale yellow color, serve with sifted sugar over, or egg and
bread-crumb ; serve very hot ; if any left cold, warm in the oven.

710. Flanc Meringue of Apple. Sometimes I make a
meringue of three eggs, as No. 711 ; when it is hard I cover
the apples with it half an inch thick, keeping the pyramid ; then
I put the remainder in a paper cornet ; cut the point so that

PASTRY. 277

by pressing it the mixture may go out by degrees, with which
I make various designs, according to fancy, sugar over, and put
for half an hour to bake in a very slow oven ; the color ought
to be pale yellow ; they are equally good hot or cold. If you
would keep it quite white, bake it in a still slower oven, and
give it a quarter of an hour longer. When I do it so, I merely
make dots all over, about a quarter of an inch distant from each
other, of the size of small nuts, sugar over, and put a Corinth
raisin in each knob, which gives it a good appearance, and bake
as directed ; when the eggs are just set, you may cover it with
a sheet of paper, to prevent it taking too much color.

711. Meringues a la Cuilleree. Pound and sift one pound
of lump sugar, whisk the whites of twelve eggs very stiff, throw
the sugar lightly over, and with a wooden spoon stir gently,
perfectly mixing the sugar, then with a table or dessert-spoon
lay them out upon white paper in the shape of eggs, sift pow-
dered sugar thickly over, let them remain ten minutes, then
shake off the superfluous sugar, place upon boards which you
have wetted, and put them in a slow oven, just hot enough to
cause them to be light and slightly tinged ; when the outside
becomes quite crisp, take off the papers, by turning them topsy-
turvy and lifting the papers from them, dip your spoon into
hot water, and with it clear out the best part of the interior,
dust them with powdered sugar, lay them upon a baking-sheet,
and put into the screen to dry ; they may be made a day or
two before they are required, if put away in a dry place; to
serve, fill them with whipped cream flavored either with vanilla
or orange-flower (but do not make it too sweet), stick two to-
gether, dress in pyramid upon a napkin, and serve. Should
they happen to stick to the papers, moisten the papers with a
paste-brush and water underneath.

712. Gateau Fourre. This style of cake is exceedingly
simple, and admits of great variation. You must make a half
pound of puff paste (No. 684), take one third of it and roll it
out several times so as to deaden it, then mould it round with
your hands to the shape of a ball, then roll it out flat to the
thickness of half a crown, lay it on a baking-sheet, put on it

278 PASTRY.

marmalade a quarter of an inch thick, reserving about one inch
all round of paste to fix the cover on, then roll out the remain-
der of the paste to the same shape, it will of course be thicker,
wet the edges of the bottom and lay the cover on it, press it so
that it sticks, cut neatly round the edges, and make a mark with
the back of a knife about a quarter of an inch deep and half an
inch apart all round, egg over, and lightly mark any fanciful
design with the point of a knife on the cover, bake in a very
hot oven for twenty minutes ; when nearly done sprinkle some
sugar over and salamander, and serve cold. It may be made
with frangipane and cream and apple marmalade, and then can
be served hot.

713. Dartoise Fourree. The former one must be made in
proportion to the dish you intend to serve on, but the following
is simple, and looks as well : prepare the paste as before, but
roll the bottom piece square, put it on a baking-sheet, cover
with jam, marmalade or frangipane, leaving one inch at the
edge, roll the cover the same size, wet the edges, place it over,
trim the edges, mark it down every three inches, and then
crosswise every inch ; bake in hot oven, sugar over, and sala-
mander. When nearly cold, cut it where you have marked it ;
thus, a piece twelve inches square will give you forty-eight
pieces ; dish as a crown or pyramid, twelve pieces make a nice
dish for a party. They may be made of any puff paste which
is left, but will not be so light as if made on purpose ; can be
cut to any fanciful shape you please.

714. Nougat of Apricot. Proceed as above, but lay apricot
marmalade all over a quarter of an inch thick, blanched almonds,
cut into fillets, mixed with two ounces of sugar, and the white
of an egg added to it, bake in a moderate oven, and cut in true
lozenge shapes (I do not mean those things called lozenges, but
a diamond shape), dish up on a napkin in crown or pyramid ;
they ought to be of a nice transparent color. Orange, apple, or
quince marmalade may be used instead of apricot. Red fruit
preserve does not cook well.

715. Crusts of Fruit. Put a quarter of a pound of butter

PASTRY. 279

in a saute- or frying-pan, sprinkle a little sugar over, cut four or
five slices of bread a quarter of an inch thick, three inches long,
and one and a half wide, lay in your pan ; take one dozen of
greengages, open them in two, they must not be too ripe, lay
the skin part on your bread, put a pinch of sugar in each, put it
in a hot oven for twenty minutes ; have ready a salamander or
a hot shovel, and hold it over it for a few minutes, dish and
serve hot or cold ; the oven ought to be hot enough to give a
nice yellow color to the bottom, which will eat crisp.

716. Crusts with Madeira. Cut a French penny roll length-
wise in four or five slices, put the yolks of two eggs, with four
spoonfuls of milk, mix it in a plate, dip quickly each piece in it,
and saute in a quarter of a pound of butter which you have pre-
viously melted in a pan, leave them on the fire until they have
obtained a nice gold color on both sides, put a spoonful of
apricot marmalade in a stewpan, with two glasses of Madeira,
and place on the fire ; when on the point of boiling, pour over
the bread, which you have previously put in a plate, and serve
very hot. Any preserve may be used, also any white wine ;
and should you have no French rolls, any fancy roll will do, or
stale brioche (No. 11) is excellent for them.

717. Cheesecakes. Under this head, in English Cookery Books,
are a variety of Receipts, but in fact, there is only one ; the others may
all be denominated tartlets of one kind or the other, and require but little
skill on the part of the cook to vary in an innumerable number of ways.
The following is the plan in use in the farm-houses in the midland coun-
ties ; some which I have received from Stilton, and also from Tuxford,
in Nottinghamshire, are excellent.

Take four quarts of milk and turn it with some fresh rennet;
when dry, crumble it and sift it through a coarse sieve into a
bowl, beat it well up with a quarter of a pound of butter until
it is quite smooth (it may require a little more butter, depend-
ing on the quality of the milk) ; mix in another bowl the yolks
of four eggs and a quarter of a pound of very fine sifted biscuit
powder, the rind of four lemons, the juice of two, a quarter of a
pound of powdered sugar (some add a little grated nutmeg or
cinnamon), beat these all well up together until forming a stiff
cream, then put it by degrees into the bowl with curd, and mix
them well together ; line some tartlet-pans, previously buttered,

280 PASTRY.

with some paste (No. 686), and place some of the above mix-
ture in, and bake quick. In some places milk is used instead
of eggs. Should you not have rennet, procure some good milk,
and turn it with the juice of a lemon or a teaspoonful of soda
or culinary alkali to a quart of milk : drain the curd, and pro-
ceed as before.

718. Richmond Maids of Honor. These delicious little cakes,
which every inhabitant of London who pays a visit to the most pictur-
esque part of its environs knows so well, derive their name from a period
when cookery was not thought to be a degrading occupation for those
honored with that title. It is stated that they originated with the maids
of honor of Queen Elizabeth, who had a palace at Richmond. I have a
little work now before me, called ' The Queen's Delight,' in which are
several receipts invented by the wives of the first nobles of the land,
which I think is an excellent example for those housewives who honor
this book by their perusal, to imitate. They are made as follows :

Sift half a pound of dry curd, mix it well with six ounces of
good butter, break the yolks of four eggs into another basin,
and a glass of brandy ; add to it six ounces of powdered lump
sugar, and beat well together one very flowery baked potato,
cold, one ounce of sweet almonds, one ounce of bitter ditto
pounded, the grated rind of three lemons, the juice of one, and
half a nutmeg grated, mix these well together and add to the
curds and butter ; stir well up, and proceed as before, filling the
tartlet pans.

719. Lemon Cheesecakes. Take two large lemons, and rub
the rind with one pound of loaf sugar, so that all the yellow part
is removed ; place the sugar in a basin, squeeze the juice of
the lemons over, then add the yolks of six eggs, and beat it all
well up, and put it by in a jar for use. It will keep for years.
Any flavor, such as vanilla or cinnamon, may be added, if liked,
when required for use. Having made the paste and lined the
tins, mix one tablespoonful of the mixture with a teacupful of
good milk, and place a little in each tartlet.

720. Sweet Omelettes. Break six eggs in a basin, into which
put a teaspoonful of sugar, three of cream, or a few small pieces
of butter ; put two ounces of butter in an omelette pan ; when

PASTRY. 281

quite hot, pour in the eggs and proceed as for Omelettes of Herbs,
turn over on your dish, sift some powdered sugar over, sala-
mander, and serve.

721. Omelettes of Preserved Fruits, viz. Currant Jelly, Rasp-
berry and Strawberry Jam, Apricots, Peaches, Cherries, &c., are
made the same as the last, but, just before turning on your dish,
put two spoonfuls of preserves in the centre, sugar over, salaman-
der, and serve.

722. Macedoine of Omelettes. Instead of making one with
eight eggs, make four, with two eggs each, of different kinds of
preserves ; serve on the same dish, sugar over, <fec., as before.

723. Omelette with Rum. The same as sweet omelette, but,
the moment of going to table, pour two glasses of rum round,
and set it on the fire.

724. Beignet Souffle. Put in a stewpan a pint of milk or
water, a teaspoonful of sugar, two ounces of butter, a few drops
of essence of vanilla, or any flavor you please ; give it a boil,
throw in some flour, keep stirring all the time until it becomes
quite thick and no longer tastes of the flour and detaches itself
from the pan. It will take about half an hour, as the better it
is done the lighter it is ; withdraw it from the fire, stir in six
eggs, one at a time, sift about two ounces of sugar, until the
paste is of the stiffness of puff paste ; have ready a pan of hot
fat, into which you drop by a spoon small pieces of paste, it will
increase their size ; and when a nice color, take them out, drain,
and dish on a napkin, with sifted sugar over.

725. Apple Fritters. Mix one pound of flour with half a
pint of milk or water, then half a pound of butter melted in a
stewpan, mix well together with a wooden spoon very smooth,
thin it a little with table-beer or water, whisk the whites of three
eggs very stiff, stir in gently ; have six apples, peeled, cut in
slices about a quarter of an inch thick, the cores taken out with
a cutter, dip each piece in the batter, and fry in hot lard about

282 PASTRY.

six minutes ; to fry well, the fat should not be too hot at first,
but get hotter as it proceeds ; they should be crisp, and of a
nice golden color ; serve on a napkin, and sift sugar over.

726. Ditto Peaches. Skim and cut in halves six ripe but
fine peaches, take out the stones, have a batter prepared as the
last, dip them in, fry, and serve the same.

727. Ditto Apricots. Cut in halves, and proceed as above,
and sugar over until quite brown.

728. Ditto, Oranges. Peel four oranges, divide them in
quarters by the thin skin, without cutting the flesh, and pro-
ceed as before.

Any other fruit may be done in the same way, and can, if
required, be soaked in wine or brandy previously, but they do
not fry so well.

729. Pancake with Marmalade. Put a quarter of a pound
of sifted flour into a basin, with four eggs, mix them together
very smoothly, then add half a pint of milk or cream, and a
little grated nutmeg, put a piece of butter in your pan (it re-
quires but a very little), and when quite hot put in two table-
spoonfuls of the mixture, let spread all over the pan, place it
upon the fire, and when colored upon one side turn it over, then
turn it upon your cloth ; proceed thus till they are all done,
then spread apricot or other marmalade all over, and roll them
up neatly, lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over, glaze
nicely with the salamander, and serve upon a napkin ; the above
may be served without the marmalade, being then the common
pancake.

730. Apple Charlotte with Butter. For the few following
receipts, the russet apple is the one I should recommend, it
being the most suitable, not being so watery, or falling in puree,
but in case they cannot be obtained, other sorts may be used,
which will require to be more reduced in stewing.

Well butter the interior of a plain round mould, then cut

PASTRY. 283

twelve pieces of bread the size and thickness of a shilling, dip
them in clarified butter, and lay them in a circle round the
bottom of your mould ; cut also eight small pieces in the shape
of diamonds, dip them in butter, and with them form a star in
the centre of the circle, cover the whole with a round piece of
bread the size of the bottom of the mould, and the thickness
of a penny-piece, cut about thirty other pieces an inch wide
and four inches in length, dip one after the other in clarified
butter, which stand upright, one half-way over the other, all
round the interior of the mould ; then have ready prepared
two dozen or more russet apples, which peel and cut in slices,
put them into a round stew or preserving-pan, with three ounces
of butter and half a pound of broken lump sugar, with a little
lemon-peel cut in strips, and a glass of sherry, place them over
a sharp fire, tossing over occasionally, but keeping them together
in a cake ; when quite tender fill your mould (having previously
well egged and bread-crumbed the interior), place another round
piece of bread (also egged and bread-crumbed) over the apples,
and stand the mould in a hot oven until the bread becomes
well browned, take out and turn it over upon your dish, have a
few spoonfuls of red currant jelly in a stewpan, with a glass of
sherry, melt it over the fire, and when quite hot pour round the
charlotte ; sugar and salamander the top if not quite crisp, and
serve. You may also, for a change, introduce a little sweetmeat
of any kind in the middle of your charlotte, and use plain
pieces of bread a quarter of an inch thick, instead of so many
pieces for the sides.

731. Apples with Rice. Peel and quarter twelve good-sized
apples, put them into a preserving-pan, with three quarters of a
pound of sugar, the thin rind of a lemon in strips, the juice of
another, and a wineglassful of water, pass them over a sharp
fire, and when tender lay them upon the back of a hair sieve
to drain, then put six ounces of rice into a stewpan, with a
quart of milk, place it upon the fire, stir until boiling, then
place it upon a very slow fire to simmer very gently until quite
tender, placing a little fire upon the lid, if it becomes dry before
it is tender add a little more milk ; then add a quarter of a
pound of sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, and four eggs,
stir them well in, stir over the fire until becoming again thick ;

284 PASTRY.

when put it upon a dish to get cold, then form a stand with it
upon your dish eight inches in diameter and three in height,
but hollow in the centre, where dress some of the apples, more
rice over, then more apples, forming a pyramid ; you have pre-
viously reduced the syrup drained from the apples, which pour
orer the whole, and garnish with some very green angelica,
forming any design your fancy may dictate. Apples with rice
may be served hot as well as cold.

732. Pears with Rice. Peel and cut in halves eighteen
small ripe pears, which put in a small preserving-pan, with three
quarters of a pound of sugar, a little water, and the juice of
two lemons, stew them till tender, then lay them upon a dish
to cool, and mix three tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade
with the syrup, have some rice prepared as in the last, with
which make a stand, but not quite so high, dress the pears in a
border in the interior, and again in the centre dress the remain-
der of the rice in pyramid ; when ready to serve pour the syrup
over, and garnish tastefully with angelica round.

733. Apples with Butter. Peel eighteen russet apples, which
cut in quarters, and trim of a nice shape, put them into a small
preserving-pan, with two ounces of butter and three quarters of
a pound of sugar, having previously rubbed the rind of an
orange upon it and pounded it, pass them over a sharp fire,
moving occasionally until quite tender, have ready buttered a
plain dome mould, put the apples into it, pressing them down
a little close ; when half cold turn it out of the mould upon a
dish, and cover all over with apricot marmalade ; when cold it is
ready to serve.

734. Apple Bread, Russian fashion. Put one pound and a
half of lump sugar and a pint and a half of water into a round-
bottomed copper preserving-pan, place it over a sharp fire and
reduce it to a crack, have ready twenty-four good brown pippin
apples peeled and cut into slices, which put into the sugar, keep-
ing stirred until it becomes quite a thick marmalade, take off
the fire and put it into a cylinder mould, previously slightly
oiled, shake it well down, and let it remain until quite cold ;

PASTRY. 285

then turn it out of the mould upon your dish ; have a few
spoonfuls of currant jelly in a stewpan, which melt over the fire,
add two glasses of good old rum, and when partly cold, pour
over and serve with whipped cream in the centre, in which you
have introduced a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers ;
if any remain, it will be excellent to make croquettes.

735. Apples saute in Butter. Procure a dozen russet apples,
which cut into slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, peel and
take out the cores with a round cutter, then put two ounces of
butter in a saute-pan, spread it over the bottom and lay in your
apples, with half a pound of powdered sugar and the juice of
two lemons, stew gently over a moderate fire ; when done, dress
them rather high in crown upon your dish, melt three spoonfuls
of red currant jelly in a stewpan, with which mix a glass of
Madeira wine, which pour over when ready to serve.

736. Croquettes of Rice. Well wash half a pound of the
best Carolina rice, which put into a stewpan, with a pint and a
half of milk, and a quarter of a pound of butter, place it upon
the fire, stir until boiling, then place it upon a slow fire, cover
the stewpan, and let simmer very slowly until quite tender ;
rub the rind of a lemon upon a lump of sugar, weighing a
quarter of a pound, pound it in a mortar quite fine, add it to
the rice, with the yolks of five eggs (mix well), stir them a few
minutes longer over the fire until the eggs thicken, but do not
let it boil, lay out upon a dish, when cold form it into a number
of 'small balls, or pears, or into long square pieces, according to
fancy ; have three or four eggs in a basin well whisked, dip
each piece in singly, and then into a dish of bread-crumbs,
smooth them gently with a knife, dip them again into the eggs
and bread-crumbs, put them into a wire basket, which put in a
stewpan of very hot lard, fry a nice light yellow color, drain on
a cloth, dress them pyramidically upon a napkin, and serve
with powdered sugar sifted over them.

737. Croquettes of Macaroni. Blanch six ounces of maca-
roni in two quarts of water until tender, then strain and put it
in a basin of cold water ; when cold cut it into pieces half an

286 JELLIES.

inch in length, and put it into a stewpan containing a pint and
a half of boiling milk, in which you have infused a stick of
vanilla, boil until it becomes thickish, add a quarter of a pound
of powdered sugar, two ounces of butter, and the yolks of eight
eggs, stir them well in over the fire until the eggs thicken, then
pour out upon a dish, and proceed precisely as for the croquettes
of rice.

738. Pastry Cream sauted. Put the yolks of six eggs in a
stewpan, with two good tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, mix quite
smooth with a wooden spoon ; then add a pint of boiling milk
or cream, stir in by degrees, and place it over the fire, keeping
stirred until it thickens, add an ounce of butter, six ounces of
sugar, two ounces of crushed ratafias, a little orange-flower
water, and three whole eggs, mix the whole well together, and
stir it a few minutes longer over the fire until the eggs set ;
then pour it out upon a saute-pan, previously oiled, and when
quite cold cut it into pieces one inch wide and two and a half
long, dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs twice over, the same
as for croquettes, saute them in the same manner, dress upon a
napkin as high as you can, with sifted sugar over, they may be
flavored also with vanilla or lemon. They may be varied in
shape according to fancy.

JELLIES.

NOTHING, I am confident, will give you more pleasure than trying the
receipts which I am now about giving you ; they are for jellies, that is,
those made from gelatinous substances of animal production. They are
the most wholesome productions of cookery, and are slightly nourishing
and fortifying without being exciting. You will find the receipts as
simple as possible ; and you will perceive that, when you have made
the foundation stock to perfection, they may be varied in twenty or
more different ways, by changing the flavor, fruits, or colors.

739. Jelly Stock, made from calf's feet, requires to be made
the day previous to being used. Take two calf's feet, cut them
up, and boil in three quarts of water ; as soon as it boils remove
it to the corner of the fire, and simmer for five hours, keeping

JELLIES. 287

it skimmed, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, and let it
remain until quite hard, then remove the oil and fat, and wipe
the top dry. Place in a stewpan one gill of water, one of
sherry, half a pound of lump sugar, the juice of four lemons,
the rinds of two, and the whites and shells of five eggs, whisk
until the sugar is melted, then add the jelly, place it on the
fire, and whisk until boiling, pass it through a jelly-bag, pour-
ing that back again which comes through first until quite clear ;
it is then ready for use, by putting it in moulds or glasses.

740. Gelatine and Isinglass Jelly is made as above, using
one ounce and a half of either, and boil in one quart of water,
reduce to half ; if not required very clear, as for lemon jelly, it
need not be run through a bag, but merely through a fine
sieve.

741. Hartshorn Jelly. Use half a pound of hartshorn
shavings, boil in three quarts of water, and reduce to one;
proceed as before. Also Arney's jelly powder can be used in-
stead of any of the above, by dissolving in boiling water.

742. Gold or Silver Jelly, or both mixed, is made with
eau de vie de Dantzic, mixing the gold or silver leaves with a
little jelly, ornamenting the bottom of the mould with it, which
place in ice till set, fill with very clear calf's foot jelly. It can
also be made by cutting up a quarter of a sheet of gold leaf in
a glass of pale brandy, and use as the former.

743. Maresquino Jelly is made by mixing six liqueur-
glasses of maresquino with a quart of clarified calf's foot jelly ;
peaches or other fruits cut in quarters may be added.

744. Rum-Punch, Curacoa, Noyeau, are made with the
same quantity, and as the former.

745. French Jellies may be made with all kinds of fresh

288 JELLIES.

fruits, filling the mould by degrees, the jelly first, let it set, then
the fruit, and so on till full, the mould being buried in ice ;
when ready to serve dip in hot water, mix it well, and turn out
carefully on your dish. In the winter, preserved fruits in syrup
may be used, decorating the mould with them, pouring in a
little jelly at a time until it is cold, and fill up by degrees ; pro-
ceed as above.

746. Orange Jelly. Procure five oranges and one lemon,
take the rind off two of the oranges, and half of the lemon, and
remove the pith, put them into a basin, and squeeze the juice of
the fruit into it ; then put a quarter of a pound of sugar into a
stewpan, with half a pint of water, and set it to boil until it be-
comes a thick syrup, when take it off, and add the juice and rind
of the fruits, cover the stewpan, and place it again on the fire ;
as soon as boiling commences skim well, and add one glass of
water by degrees, which will assist its clarification, let it boil
another minute, when add half an ounce of good isinglass, dis-
solved as directed (No. 740), pass it through a jelly-bag, add a
few drops of prepared cochineal to give an orange tint, and then
fill a mould and place it on ice ; turn out as before.

747. Lemon Jelly is made the same way, only using six lem-
ons and the rind of one ; serve quite white, and add a gill of Bu-
cellas, or any very pale wine.

Calf's foot stock, reduced and clarified, may be used instead of
the isinglass.

748. Whipped Jellies are made from any of the above by
placing some warm jelly in a large bowl or basin on ice, and
when nearly cold whisking it ; pour quickly in a mould set on
ice and salt, where let remain till ready for serving ; dip it in
lukewarm water, strike gently, taking it in the right hand, place
the left on it, turn it over, if it shakes in the mould, let it grad-
ually slip off your hand on the dish, and remove the mould.
All jellies are removed the same way.

749. Bohemian Jelly Creams may be made of any flavor
as jellies, and either ripe fruit or with marmalade or jam, to

JELLIES. 289

which add the juice of two lemons, a pint of water, in which
one ounce and a half of isinglass has been dissolved, or a pint
of reduced clarified calf's foot jelly, stir together in a bowl
placed on ice ; when nearly cold, stir quickly in three parts of
a pint of whipped cream, fill the mould, which should be kept
on ice, and turn out as before. A- small bottle of Crosse and
Blackwell's jelly may be used instead of the isinglass or jelly,
by uncorking and placing the bottle in a stewpan of hot water
till dissolved, or pour it in a clean stewpan, and reduce it one
third. Cherries, raspberries, strawberries, currants, and goose-
berries must be passed through a sieve ; but apricots, peaches,
apples, pears, quinces, pineapples, and marmalade may be used
as they are. Creams may be made of any flavor, and of either
ripe fruits, jams, or marmalade ; they are made plain, thus :
put the yolks of five eggs in a stewpan, with six ounces of
sugar, beat it up with a spoon until white ; in another stewpan
have a pint of milk and one ounce of isinglass, boil ten minutes,
stir continually to prevent burning, flavor with vanilla or any-
thing to your taste, pour the milk on the eggs and sugar, put
on the fire, stir well together, do not let it boil, pass through a
tammy into a round bowl ; when cold, set on ice, add two or
three glasses of liqueur, keep stirring its contents, and when
setting, add three parts of a pint of cream well whipped, mix
well together, and pour into your mould in the ice, and keep
there till required ; turn out as before.

750. Charlotte Russe. Line the inside of a plain round
mould with Savoy biscuits, cutting and placing them at the
bottom to form a rosette, standing them upright and close to-
gether, fill with any of the above creams, omitting the fruits,
place the mould in ice, let it remain till ready to serve, turn
over on a dish, and remove the mould.

751. Strawberry Charlotte. Line a plain round mould with
ripe strawberries by burying the mould hi ice to the rim, and
dipping the strawberries in calf's foot jelly, first covering the
bottom with them cut in halves, the cut side downwards, after-
wards building them up the sides, the jelly (which must be cold,
but not set) causing them to adhere ; when finished, fill it with

290 JELLIES.

the cream as directed for the charlotte russe, and when ready
to serve dip the mould in warm water, and turn it out upon
your dish. The cream must be very nearly set when you pour
it in, or it would run between the strawberries and produce a
bad effect.

752. Chartreuse Cake of variegated Fruits. Line a char-
lotte mould very tastefully with various kinds of fruits (such as
stoned cherries, strawberries, pieces of peaches, apricots, &c.)
by dipping them into jelly, forming some design at the bottom
of the mould, and building them in reverse rows up the sides,
having the mould previously placed in ice, when well set, termi-
nate as in the last.

753. Blancmange. To one quart of milk add one ounce of
isinglass, a quarter of a pound of sugar, a quarter of an ounce
of cinnamon, a little grated nutmeg, half of the peel of a
lemon, and a bay-leaf, simmer over a slow fire, stirring till the
isinglass is dissolved, pass it through a napkin into a basin, and
pour into a mould. This can be made any color or flavor that
will not curdle the milk ; the milk of bitter almonds may be
added to flavor it.

754. Another. Put into a bowl about a pint of clear calf 's-
foot jelly warm, break six eggs, beat the yolks and pour them
gradually into the jelly, beating all the time ; put on the fire
and whisk till nearly boiling, set it on ice or in cold water, keep
stirring till nearly cold, and fill your mould. You may add
whatever flavor you like.

755. Trifles should be made early in the day on which they
are wanted ; take a stale Savoy cake, cut it in slices of one inch
thick, and lay it on the bottom of the dish ; lay on that a thin
layer of any kind of marmalade, jam, or jelly, have some maca-
roons and ratafia cakes and lay on, and cover the whole with
some sponge cakes. For a dish nine inches in diameter, mix
two glasses of sherry, one of brandy, half a one of rum, and
the same of noyeau, and pour over, and let it remain until it is
well soaked, then pour over about one inch thick of rich custard ;

PUDDINGS IN MOULDS. 291

put a pint of cream into a bowl, with some sifted sugar, a
squeeze of a lemon, and about a tablespoonful of the wine, &c.,
you have put on the cake, whisk it well up. I use a trifle-
blower, which saves some trouble ; I also use it for all whipped
cream ; and as the froth rises remove it with a spoon on to a
clean sieve, where let it drain, then place it on the custard until
it is high and handsome.

I have occasionally, when being in a hurry, and having no
cream by me, proceeded as above, and made the whip with the
whites of eggs, and some very white peach or egg-plum mar-
malade together, until it makes firm froth or whip, which put
on the custard ; this may also be colored a nice pink.

Trifles are generally considered unwholesome ; I think it is
because they are often made too long before they are wanted,
and no spirit is used in the cake, the consequence is, the cream
turns sour.

The remains of this make an excellent pudding.

PUDDINGS IN MOULDS.

WE have already, in the Comforts for Invalids, given several of the
most simple receipts. I prefer using, in these kinds of puddings, as the
principal ingredient, stale Savoy cake, or sponge cakes, or ladies' fingers,
and, if I cannot get them, crumbs of stale bread ; they may be made
in a hundred different ways, according to the fancy and taste of the
cook ; the mould should be buttered and papered ; they may be either
baked or steamed.

There is hardly any of our sex, from childhood to old age, but loves
this truly English mixture, which appears upon our tables in a hundred
different shapes, but always under the same name ; and I should not
fancy my labors complete if I did not produce a new one of my own
invention ; I therefore beg you to accept of the dedication, as I intend
to call it

756. Pudding a la Eloise. It is made as follows: take
half a pound of bread-crumbs, which put in a basin, with two
ounces of sago, six ounces of chopped suet, six eggs, five ounces
of moist sugar, and a tablespoonful of either orange, lemon, or
apricot marmalade ; mix all well together, and ornament the
bottom of the mould with green angelica in syrup, and Smyrna
raisins, and fill up with the mixture. Place the mould in a
stewpan containing water to half the height of the mould, and
boil gently for two hours ; remove it from the mould, and serve

292 PUDDINGS IN MOULDS.

with a sauce made of a tablespoonful of either of the marma-
lades, or of currant or apple jelly and two glasses of sherry
poured over. This, I assure you, received great praise from the
little party of juveniles that I had the other day.

757. Pudding a la Heine. Butter and paper the mould,
fill up with cake or bread-crumbs, when full pour some custard
in until it will hold no more ; this may be flavored with any
white liquor or essence you please, for instance, citron (then it
is called Pudding a la Reine au Citron), or orange ; use peel
thinly sliced, and so on for any flavor you may give it.

758. Mince-meat Pudding. Butter and paper the mould,
then put a layer of cake and a layer of mince-meat alternately,
till full, then add the custard.

759. Demi-Plum Pudding. Prepare the mould, then add
a layer of plum pudding, broken in pieces, that has been left
from the previous day, alternately, till full, fill up with custard,
and steam or bake for three minutes. The remains of any kind
of pudding may be used thus.

760. Trifle Pudding. Prepare the mould, and fill with the
same ingredients as directed for trifle, taking care that the
wine, &c., is well soaked in before adding the custard. Steam
or bake thirty minutes. The sides and tops of these puddings
may be ornamented with cut angelica, hops, or candied orange
or lemon-peel, in any fanciful design you please, and they may
be served with any kind of wine sauce.

761. Carrot Pudding. Mix in a bowl half a pound of flour,
half a pound of chopped suet, three quarters of a pound of
grated carrot, a quarter of a pound of raisins stoned, a quarter
of a pound of currants, and a quarter of a pound of sugar, brown
or sifted white ; place these in a mould or dish, beat up two
whole eggs, the yolks of four in a gill of milk, grate a little nutmeg
in it, and add it to the former ; bake or steam forty-five minutes.

PUDDINGS BOILED IN CLOTHS. 293

PUDDINGS BOILED IN CLOTHS.
The principal one, and the most celebrated, is the plum pudding.

762. Plum Pudding. Pick and stone one pound of the
best Malaga raisins, which put in a basin, with one pound of
currants (well washed, dried, and picked), a pound and a half
of good beef suet (chopped, but not too fine), three quarters of
a pound of white or brown sugar, two ounces of candied lemon-
and orange-peel, two ounces of candied citron, six ounces of
flour, and a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, with a little
grated nutmeg ; mix the whole well together, with eight whole
eggs and a little milk ; have ready a plain or ornamented pud-
ding-mould, well butter the interior, pour the above mixture
into it, cover a sheet of paper over, tie the mould in a cloth,
put the pudding into a large stewpan containing boiling water,
and let boil quite fast for four hours and a half (or it may be
boiled by merely tying it in a pudding-cloth previously well
floured, forming the shape by laying the cloth in a round-
bottomed basin and pouring the mixture in, it will make no
difference in the time required for boiling) ; when done, take
out of the cloth, turn from the mould upon your dish, sprinkle
a little powdered sugar over, and serve with the following sauce
in a boat : Put the yolks of three eggs in a stewpan, with a
spoonful of powdered sugar, and a gill of milk ; mix well to-
gether, add a little lemon-peel, and stir over the fire uutil be-
coming thickish (but do not let it boil), when add two glasses
of brandy, and serve separate.

The above sauce may be served, poured over the pudding, if
approved of.

An excellent improvement to a plum pudding is to use half
a pound of beef marrow cut into small dice, omitting the same
quantity of suet.

763. Rowley Powley. Roll out about two pounds of paste
(TSTo. 685), cover it with any jam or marmalade you like, roll it
over and tie it loose in a cloth, well tying each end ; boil one
hour and serve, or cut it in slices and serve with sauce over.

764. Plum Bolster, or Spotted Dick. Roll out two pounds

294 PLAIN BAKED PUDDINGS IN DISHES.

of paste (No. 685), having some Smyrna raisins well washed,
and place them on it here and there, roll over, tie in a cloth,
and boil one hour, and serve with butter and brown sugar.

765. Plain Bolster. Roll as above, sift some white or
brown sugar over it, the addition of a little powdered cinnamon
to the sugar is an improvement, roll over and proceed as be-
fore.

766. Apple Dumplings. Peel and cut out the core with a
cutter, cover it with paste (No. 685), tie in a cloth, and boil ac-
cording to size ; these are all the better for being boiled and
kept in the cloth, hung up for four or six weeks, and re-warmed.
They may likewise be baked. These kind of boiled puddings,
containing a large quantity of paste, should be made with flour,
in which is mixed one saltspoonful of culinary alkali powder to
four pounds of flour, which will cause them to be much lighter.

PLAIN BAKED PUDDINGS IN DISHES.

767. Marrow Pudding may be made in various ways; it is
best with half a pound of ladies' finger cakes, and a quarter of a
pound of beef marrow, chopped fine, a quarter of a pound of
currants well cleaned, half an ounce of candied lemon-peel, a
little nutmeg, a tablespoonful of powdered sugar, a saltspoonful
of salt, and half a wineglassful of wine or brandy : put these on
a dish, and fill up with custard, having previously put a border
of paste on the rim ; about half an hour will do it.

768. Custard Pudding. Make a border of paste on the
dish, and fill up with custard, grate a little nutmeg on the top.

Any kind of fruit puddings with custard may be made in the
same way, by placing them in the custard, and sift some finely
powdered sugar over, before going to the baker's.

769. Fruit Puddings are best made in a basin, the basin to be
buttered and lined with the paste, and then filled with the fruit,
which cover with the paste, the paste should be rolled round to

PIES, ETC. 295

the thickness of half an inch, and when the fruit is in, drawn to
the centre and squeezed, and then tied up in a cloth kept on
purpose, and boiled in plenty of water ; when done, which will
be according to the nature of the fruit you put in it, serve it
either turned out of the basin or not. The cover should be of
the same thickness as the sides. Sugar should be added before
being covered.

770. Apples should be pared, cored, and cut in quarters, and
put in with some sugar, a few cloves, and a bit of lemon-peel.

771. Wall Fruit as Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, and
Plums, should be cut in half, and the kernels extracted from
the stones and added, a little cream, according to the size of the
pudding, in which a little grated cinnamon is added, may be
put in at the same time as the fruit ; use but little sugar.

772. Gooseberry, Rhubarb, Currants, red, white, and blade,
Raspberry and Cherry, Blackberry, Whorts, Damson, and
Greengage may all be made in a similar way.

773. Mince Meat. Procure four pounds and a half of kid-
ney beef suet, which skin and chop very finely ; have also a
quarter of a pound of candied lemon and orange-peel ; the
same of citron, a pound and a half of lean cooked beef, and
three pounds and a half of apples, the whole separately, chop-
ped very fine, and put into a large pan with four pounds and a
half of currants, well washed and picked, two ounces of mixed
spice, and two pounds of sugar ; mix the whole well together
with the juice of eight lemons and a pint of brandy, place it in
jars, and tie down until ready for use ; a pound and a half of
Malaga raisins, well stoned and chopped, may likewise be ad-
ded to the above. It is ready for use in a few days.

774. Mince Pies. Have a piece of puff-paste, which roll out
to the thickness of a penny-piece ; have also a dozen tartlet-
pans, which lightly butter, cut out twelve pieces with a round

296 REMOVES.

cutter from the paste, each the size of your tartlet-pans ; lay
them upon the slab, roll the trimming of the paste again to the
former thickness, cut twelve other pieces, with which line the
tartlet-pans ; put a piece of mince-meat, made as under, in each,
wet them round, place on the lids, pricking a hole with a pin in
the centre, and close them well at the edges ; egg over lightly,
and bake about twenty minutes in a moderate oven.

775. Fruit Pies. These are made in pie-dishes, the top of
which is only covered with paste ; the edge of the dish should
be wetted, and a strip of paste, about one inch wide and a
quarter of an inch thick, put on it, then fill the dish with the
fruit, wet the paste on the edge, and cover with paste, mark
the edge with a roller, or the back of a knife.

776. Apple Pie. Pare, cut, and core sufficient apples to fill
the dish, put a small cup in the middle or not, as you like, one
clove, to every three apples, a pinch of pounded cinnamon, a
small piece of chopped lemon-peel, and sugar ; bake according
to size.

777. Rhubarb and Apple, or Rhubarb and Gooseberry,
Currant and Raspberry, Cherry, Plum, Damson, Pear,
Quince, Mulberry, Whortleberry, or Whorts and Raspberry,
Dewberry and Raspberry, or Cranberry, may all be made in
the same way, in winter. A little whipped cream may be
placed in the top, for a variety.

REMOVES-SECOND COURSE.

778. Chestnut Pudding, Nesselrode fashion. Blanch four
dozen chestnuts in boiling water, skim and place them in the
screen, when dry take them out, and when cold put them into
a mortar, with one pound of sugar, and half a stick of vanilla,
pound the whole well together, and sift it through a fine wire
sieve, put into a stewpan, with the yolks of twelve eggs, beat

REMOVES. 297

them well together ; in another stewpan have a quart of milk,
when boiling pour it over the other ingredients, mixing well,
and stir over a sharp fire until it begins to thicken and ad-
heres to the back of the spoon, then lay a tammy upon a
large dish, pour the mixture in and rub it through with two
wooden spoons ; when cold place it in a freezing-pot and freeze
as directed (No. 833); when frozen have a large high ice-
mould, which closes hermetically, have also two ounces of cur-
rants and two ounces of Smyrna raisins, soaked in four glasses
of marasquino from the previous day, with four ounces of can-
died citron cut in dice, put them into the freezing-pot, with a
pint of whipped cream and half the meringue preparation di-
rected in No. 711; freeze the whole well together and fill
your mould, which bury in ice and salt until ready to serve,
then dip it into lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your
dish.

779. Iced Cabinet Pudding. Have ready prepared, and
rather stale, a sponge-cake as directed (No. 859), which cut
into slices half an inch thick, and rather smaller than the
mould you intend making the pudding in, soak them well with
noyeau brandy ; then lay some preserved dry cherries at the
bottom of the mould, with a few whole ratafias, lay one of the
slices over, then more cherries and ratafias, proceeding thus
until the mould is three parts full ; have ready a quart of the
custard (No. 804), omitting half the quantity of isinglass,
pour it lukewarm into your mould, which close hermetically,
and bury in ice and salt, where let it remain at least two hours ;
when ready to serve dip it in lukewarm water, and turn it out
upon your dish ; you have made about half a pint of custard,
which keep upon ice, pour over the pudding when ready to
serve, and sprinkle a few chopped pistachios over.

780. White Almond Pudding Ices. Blanch and skin a
quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, with six or eight bitter
ones, when dry ard cold, place them in a mortar, with three
quarters of a pound of sugar, and ten or twelve leaves of can-
died orange-flowers, pound well, sift through a wire sieve, and
place it in a stewpan, with the yolks of eight eggs, beat them
well together ; then in another stewpan have boiling a pint and
13*

298 REMOVES.

a half of milk, which pour over the other ingredients by de-
grees, keeping it stirred, place it upon the fire, stirring until it
thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon, rub it through
a tammy, add two glasses of noyeau ; when cold put into your
freezing-pot to freeze, and when half frozen add a pint and a
half of whipped cream, when quite frozen fill a mould, and
serve as pudding Nesselrode fashion.

781. Fruit, Chartreuse of, with Lemon Jelly. Make a
chartreuse of fruit as directed (No. 752), in a round or oval
mould, having a quantity of fruit left ; having also about a
quart of orange jelly, which place upon ice in a bowl, whisking
it until on the point of setting, then place a layer of it in the
chartreuse, then a layer of the fruit, the jelly, and so on until
quite filled, place it upon ice, and when set and ready to serve,
dip in lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish ; serve
garnished round with jelly in the skins of the oranges, cut in
quarters after it has set, or leave out the garnishing.

782. Souffle of Orange Iced. Prepare about three parts
of the quantity of ice as directed in the last, to which, when
half frozen, add a pint and a half of whipped orange jelly just
upon the point of setting, beat the whole well together with
the spatula, working it until well frozen : have a dozen and a
half of oranges, peeled, quartered, and passed in sugar as di-
rected for vol-au-vent, and place them in a basin upon ice ;
when ready to serve, make a border of almond paste upon your
dish, in the centre of which put a little of the ice, then a layer
of oranges, then the same and oranges again, proceeding thus
and finishing in pyramid ; garnish round with various small
ripe fruits.

783. Punch Cake Souffle. Break ten eggs, put the whites
in a copper bowl, and the yolks in a basin, with four table-
spoonfuls of powdered sugar, four of crushed ratafias, two of
potato flour, a little salt, and a quarter of an ounce of candied
orange-flowers, beat well together, whip the whites, which stir
in lightly with the mixture ; well butter and bread-crumb the
interior of an oval plain mould, butter also and bread-crumb a

REMOVES. 299

band of paper three inches broad, which tie round at the top
of the mould, pour in the mixture, and half an hour before
ready to serve stand it in a moderate oven (it will take about
the above time to bake), when done turn it out upon your dish ;
have ready a custard of three yolks of eggs, to which you
have added two glasses of essence of punch, pour round the
cake and serve.

The above mixture may be baked in twelve small moulds
and dressed in pyramid, but then they would require more
sauce.

SOUFFLE.

THESE dishes, being the last of the Dinner, require the greatest care
and taste in executing, as, by the time they come on the table, the ap-
petites of those around it are supposed to be satisfied ; the eye and the
palate require to be pleased, in order to sustain the enjoyments of the
table ; this is a period of dinner when another of the senses may be
gratified by the introduction of music (and which is continually prac-
tised on the Continent), and all ought to be of a light and inviting
character.

Formerly it was the custom never to give a dinner without a souffle
as the last dish, or professionally speaking, remove. I do not dislike
them, but they require the greatest care aud nicety, and are rather
difficult to perform in our old-fashioned kitchens, but easy in my new
stove ; at any rate I must give you the receipt.

784. Souffle of Lemon, or any other flavor. Prepare a
crust or croustade. of fine paste (No. 687), or water paste, by
lining a raised pie-mould with it, filling with bread-crumbs, and
finishing the edges as for a raised pie ; bake it (of a very light
brown color) about an hour in a moderate oven, when done,
empty out all the bread-crumbs without taking it out of the
mould, then tie a band of buttered paper (four inches wide)
round the top, and put it by until wanted. Put half a pound
of butter in a stewpan, with which mix three quarters of a
pound of flour without melting it, in another stewpan have
rather more than a quart of milk, into which, when boiling,
put two sticks of vanilla, place a cover upon the stewpan and
let it remain until half cold, then take out the vanilla, and pour
the milk upon the butter and flour, stir over a sharp fire, boil-
ing it five minutes, then stir in quickly the yolks of ten eggs,
and sweeten with half a pound of sugar ; when cold, and an
hour and a quarter before you are ready to serve, whip the

300 REMOVES.

whites of the ten eggs very stiff, stir them in with the mixture
lightly, pour it into the croustade, and bake about an hour in a
moderate oven ; if going too fast, and liable to be done before
required, open the oven door, as it ought to be served the mo-
ment it is done ; when ready to serve take it from the oven,
detach the band of paper, take it from the mould, dress it upon
a napkin on a dish, and serve immediately.

These souffles may be baked in a silver souffle-case, if pre-
ferred, they will take considerably less time in baking, but fall
quicker after being taken from the oven ; any liquor or spirits
may be introduced in souffles of this description if approved of.

This is large enough for a dinner of eighteen; a quarter
of that quantity will make a nice family one, baked in a plain
tart-dish.

785. Souffle of Orange-flowers. Proceed exactly as in the
last, but infusing an ounce of candied orange-flowers in the
milk instead of the vanilla.

786. Souffle of Rice Cream is made by using ground rice
instead of the common flour, finishing the same, and using
any of the flavors directed in the last three.

787. Souffle of Lemon. Proceed as directed for souffle a
la vanille, but infusing the rind of two lemons, free from
pith, in the milk instead of the vanilla.

788. Omelette Souffle. Break six eggs, place the yolks in
one basin and the whites in another ; add to the yolks three
tablespoonfuls of lump sugar, half one of fecule of potato or
wheat flour, and ten drops of orange-flower water; beat well
together; whip the whites, beginning rather slowly at first,
increasing by degrees, until it forms a stiff froth ; then add
the yolks, very gently beating up the whites as you add it:
have ready a silver or plated dish (for want of either, use
tin), and butter it well ; place the mixture on it, and put it into
a hot oven ; look that it rises ; if so, run a knife round it ; sift
some sugar on it, place it in the oven again, and serve, when
well raised, immediately.

REMOVES. 301

789. Omelette Souffle Saute. The mixture is prepared pre-
cisely as the last, but the appearance and flavor are very differ-
ent, being produced by the different method of cooking them ;
put an ounce of butter into a very clean omelette-pan over the
fire ; when melted, pour in half the preparation, place it over a
very brisk fire a few seconds, then twist it round in the pan,
which give a jerk, tossing the omelette half-way over, stand it
over the fire again, give the pan another jerk, tossing the ome-
lette again over, and turn it out upon your dish, set it in the
oven, and proceed the same with the remainder of the prepara-
tion, which when done turn over upon the other ; leave it in
the oven about a quarter of an hour, sprinkle sugar over, sala-
mander and serve very quickly. The butter the soufflfe is saute
in gives it a superior flavor to the last.

790. Cream Omelette Souffle. Proceed as in the last, de-
ducting two of the whites of eggs, and adding a gill of whip-
ped cream, saute and serve as before.

791. Souffle Biscuits. Put the yolks of five eggs in a basin,
and the whites in a copper bowl, add a pound of sugar, upon
which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon previous to pounding,
beat it well with the yolks of the eggs, then add a gill of cream,
well whipped, and five ounces of flour ; stir all together lightly,
whip the whites of the eggs very stiff, and stir them into the
preparation ; have ready ten small paper cases, fill each one
three parts full, and fifteen minutes before serving place them in
a moderate oven ; when done shake sugar over, dress in pyra-
mids, upon a napkin, and serve.

792. Souffle, or Whipped Cream. Take one quart of
cream, put it into a bowl, with a quarter of a pound of pow-
dered sugar, and orange-flower powder of water, and have an-
other bowl near you, over which you must place a sieve to
receive and drain the cream, whip the cream with a whisk, or
blow it up with a bellows made on purpose, and as it rises in a
froth, take it off with a spoon, and place it on the sieve ; con-
tinue till all is used, then put back the drainings, and continue

302 REMOVES.

until you have none left, then put it into your dish or in glasses,
or on a trifle, and ornament with nonpareils, or with green citron
peel or angelica cut very fine and tastefully. It can likewise be
iced.

793. Coffee Souffle Cream. Take about a quarter of a
pound of clean raw coffee, heat it in a clean saute-pan on the
fire, so that it gets hot through, but does not burn, then put it
into one quart of cream, and cover it up ; let it cool as quickly
as possible on ice, add five ounces of powdered sugar, and pro-
ceed as above.

794. Vanilla Souffle Cream. Cut a pod of vanilla small,
pound it with sugar, sift it through a fine sieve, and add it to
your cream, or add some drops of essence of vanilla, and pro-
ceed as directed above.

795. Fondue of Parmesan and Gruyere, or any other
grated Cheese. Put a quarter of a pound of butter and six
ounces of flour in a stewpan, mix them well together (without
melting the butter) with a wooden spoon, then add rather
more than a pint of boiling milk, stir over the fire, boil twenty
minutes, then add the yolks of five eggs (stir in well), half a
pound of grated Parmesan, and a quarter of a pound of grated
Gruyere cheese ; season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a quar-
ter do. of pepper, and half a saltspoonful of cayenne ; if too
thick add two or three whole eggs to give it the consistency of
a souffle, whip the five whites of egg firm, stir them gently into the
mixture, have ready a croustade prepared as for the souffle (No.
784), pour in the above mixture, and bake it in a moderate
oven ; it will require a little longer time than the souffle ; dish
and serve the same.

796. Neapolitan Fondue. Prepare half of the mixture as
in the last, but previous to adding the whites of eggs stir in a
quarter of a pound of good macaroni blanched, and cut into
pieces an inch in length ; add the whites, bake, and serve as
before.

797. Fondue (simple method). Put two ounces of Gruyere

REMOVES. 303

and two ounces of Parmesan cheese (grated) into a basin (or,
if you have not got them, use English cheese), with a little salt,
pepper, and cayenne, add the yolks of six eggs, with a quarter
of a pound of butter melted (mix well), whip the whites of the
six eggs, stir gently into the other ingredients, fill small paper
cases with it, bake about a quarter of an hour in a moderate
oven, dress upon a napkin, and serve very hot.

798. Fondue of Stilton Cheese. Put six ounces of butter
and half a pound of flour in a stewpan, rub well together with
a wooden spoon, then add a quart of warm milk, stir over the
fire a quarter of an hour, -then add the yolks of eight eggs,
three quarters of a pound of grated Parmesan, and half a
pound of Stilton cheese in small dice, season rather highly with
pepper, salt, and cayenne, add the white of the eggs whipped
very stiff, which stir in lightly ; have a dozen and a half of
small paper cases, fill each one three parts full, place them in a
moderate oven, bake about twenty minutes ; when done dress
them upon a napkin on your dish, and serve very hot.

799. Cheese Raminole. Put a gill of water in a stewpan, to
which add two ounces of Gruyere and the same quantity of
Parmesan cheese (grated), two ounces of butter, a little cayenne
pepper, and salt if required, set it upon the fire, and when boil-
ing stir in two or three spoonfuls of flour ; keep stirring over
the fire until the paste becomes dryish and the bottom of the
stewpan quite white, then add three or four eggs by degrees,
until forming a paste like No. 724, butter a baking-sheet well,
and lay the paste out in pieces upon it with a tablespoon, making
them long, and half the size of the bowl of the spoon ; egg over,
and lay a small piece of Gruyere cheese upon each, put them
into the oven about twenty minutes before they are required ;
bake them a little crisp, and serve very hot, dressed in pyramid
upon a napkin.

800. Puff Cheesecake. Make half a pound of paste (No.
686), which roll very thin, have ready some grated Parmesan
and Gruyere cheese mixed, throw half a handful over the paste,
which fold in three, roll it out to the same thickness again,

304 REMOVES.

cover again with cheese, proceeding thus until you have used
the whole of the cheese (half a pound), then cut them into any
shapes you like with pastry cutters, set on a wet baking-sheet,
egg them over, bake a nice color in a moderate oven, dress in
pyramid upon a napkin on a dish, and serve very hot.

801. Cheese Souffle, or Diablotins. Put a gill of milk in a
stewpan, with two ounces of butter ; when boiling, stir in two
spoonfuls of flour, keep stirring over the fire until the bottom
of the stewpan is dry, then add four eggs by degrees, half a
pound of Gruyere, and half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese ;
mix well in, season with pepper, salt, and cayenne rather highly,
mould the paste into little balls with the forefinger against the
side of the stewpan containing it, drop them into hot lard ; fry
of a nice light brown, dress in pyramid upon a napkin, and
serve very hot ; a quarter of that quantity may of course be
made.

802. Turban of Almond Cake Iced. This is a very good
and useful second course remove. Make half a pound of puff
paste, give it nine rolls, rolling it the last time to the thickness
of a penny-piece, have ready blanched and chopped half a pound
of sweet almonds, which put in a basin with half a pound of
powdered sugar and the whites of two eggs, or a little more if
required ; spread it over the paste the thickness of a shilling, and
with a knife cut the paste into pieces two inches and a half in
length and nearly one in breadth, place them upon a baking-
sheet, and bake nicely a very light brown color, in a moderate
oven, dress them on a stiff border of any kind of stiff jam or
marmalade, so as to form a large crown according to the size
you require it ; then fill the interior with vanilla cream, or any
other, iced, but not too hard, and bring it up to a point ; the
cake may be cut in any shape you fancy, but never make them
too large.

803. Turban of Pastry. Observe that any kind of pastry
fourree, as No. 712, or meringue, No. 711, will, if dished as
above, with iced cream, make a very nice remove.

804. Custard for Puddings. Take one pint of milk, to

DESSERT. 305

which add the yolks of two eggs, and beat up, add a quarter
of a pound of sugar, half a saltspoonful of powdered cinnamon
and nutmeg, and a bay-leaf. For mould puddings, the mould
should be filled first with the bread, &c., and the custard added ;
should it be wanted alone in glasses, it must then be put into
a saucepan on the fire until it nearly boils, keep stirring it well
during the time.

805. Batter for Fritters. Take half a pound of flour, one
ounce of butter, which melt, the whites of three eggs well beaten,
half a glass of beer, and enough water to make a thick batter.

DESSERT.

LETTER No. XVI.

MA CHERE ELOISE, Remembering your admiration of the small dessert
I put on the table at my last birth-day party, you will, I am confident,
feel interested in the description of desserts in general, and I will give
you a few more hints and receipts, which will tend both to economize
as well as gratify the palate and sight ; and very different in style from
some of our visitors, who, though they spend their money freely enough
when they give their Christmas party, but still keep up the old style of
covering their table with dry sweet stuff, and, in the way of fruits, dis-
play oranges in their original golden skin, Ribston pippins in their mourn-
ful ones, American apples with their vermilion cheeks, large winter
pears in their substantial state, the whole ornamented and crowned with
laurel, no doubt to signify their immortality, being present upon almost
every table from year to year, especially the unsociable pear, which no
teeth can ever injure, but, on the contrary, it may injure the teetli. A
very comical friend assured us, as a fact, that he had met one of the
before-mentioned pears in three different parties in less than a week,
having, for curiosity's sake, engraved lu's initial with a penknife upon one
he was served with at the first party. " And, talk about pine-apples,"
said he, " many times I have had the pleasure of meeting with the same,
and even as much as twice in less than twelve hours, quite in a different
direction, that is, on a dinner-table in the west-end about eight in the
evening, and, at midnight, on the supper-table of a civic ball ; at dinner
being perched on an elevated stand in the centre of a large wide table,
so much out of reach that it would almost require a small ladder to get
at it ; and I must say that every guest present paid due respect to his
high position, and never made an assault, or even an attempt to disturb,

306 DESSERT.

much less to uncrown his fruity majesty, though, now and then, one of
the fair guests, as a compliment, would remark to the amphitrion, that
she never saw in her life a finer pine-apple. ' Very fine, very fine in-
deed, madam ! will you allow me to offer you part of an orange ?' ' Not
any more, I thank you, sir,' being the reply."

On the supper table this aristocratic and inaccessible pine still holds
its kingly rank, and is still proudly perched on the top of a sideboard,
surrounded by Portugal or Rhenish grapes, and to prevent its detlirone-
ment by removing the grapes the intelligent waiter has carefully tied it
to the ornament that supports it. Our friend, who is a literary gentle-
man, has promised to write a small brochure, to be called the ' Memoirs
of a Pineapple in London,' which I am confident, will not fail of being
very interesting, having had the advantage of mixing in so many diffe-
rent societies.

I know, dearest, what will be your feeling after the perusal of the
above, that I have given vent to a little scandal ; but it is the truth,
and of almost daily occurrence, so that there is no mystery about it. I
do not mean that it is very general, but is certainly often practised ; for
my part, you know my style : I never attempt to astonish my guests
with extensive wonders of nature and art in any shape of eatable, but
simply follow the middle prices, by which I always can procure the best
quality of article in comestibles ; and nothing pleases me more when I
give a party than that every dish on the table should be partaken of,
and still more so when entirely eaten. I do not approve of meanness ;
though a great economist, I abhor it as much as I do extravagance ; and
we never, I assure you, give a single party without being perfectly sat-
isfied that it does not interfere with our daily comforts, that is, as re-
gards financial matters. For dessert in summer I confine it entirely to
fresh fruit, compotes, ices, and a few almond cakes, and Savoy biscuits.
Fruits, preserves, oranges, compotes, and biscuits in winter.

The list of names I here inclose to you consists of moderately priced
articles, and will enable you to make a good appearance for your dessert,
and at a trifling expense.

The first thing I wish you to be initiated in is, what is called in France
" compote," which may be made almost from any kind of fruits, espe-
cially apples, pears, apricots, plums, greengages, peaches, cherries, goose-
berry, oranges, <fec. It was on my second visit to Havre that I took
lessons in confectionery ; I paid as much as ten shillings per lesson to
M. Bombe Glace, that being the " nom de guerre" of the first confectioner
there ; but you know, dearest, how quick I am learning, especially any-
thing in the way of cookery. I really must say I do love cooking, so
you may fancy that the clever artist, Monsieur le Confiseur, had not
very many of our demi-souvereign, as he called them, from us ; my Mr.
B. thought at the time that it was quite ridiculous and extravagant to
pay so much for a trifle like that ; but let me tell you, dear, he had not
then tasted them ; but now all the wall- and tree-fruits from our garden,
if I were to follow entirely his taste, would be converted into compote,
he being so remarkably fond of it.

DESSERT. 307

COMPOTE.

Procure a very clean tin stewpan or a small sugar- pan ; it being more
preferable for boiling sugar, why I cannot tell, never having asked the
reason, being so anxious to know other things which I thought more
serviceable. Since I have tried it in a common stewpan, it has answered
very well ; and knowing by experience that your culinary laboratory is
still in its innocent infancy, you might be prevented from making an
immediate experiment by waiting till you could get one ; you may use
that three-pint size stewpan for it, which I lent you for a pattern about
three weeks ago, and after which I shall feel extremely gratified by its
reappearance on my kitchen shelf at No. 5, being out of the middle
row of them, because every time I enter my kitchen it puts me in
mind of a very pretty woman minus one of her front teeth.

Excuse me if I claim it of you, but I want to teach you punctuality
as well as economy.

806. Winter Pears. To put an end to its long and hard
existence, I would cut it into six or eight pieces lengthwise,
peel and cut out the cores, giving them a nice shape ; then put
them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of sugar, a gill
of port wine, the thin rind of a lemon, a little cinnamon, and
half a pint of water ; let them simmer gently about an hour or
until tender ; when done, put them into a basin, reduce the
syrup until thickish if required, and pour over ; when cold they
are ready to serve.

A little prepared cochineal mixed with the syrup very much
improves their appearance. A dish composed half of these and
half of the white has a very pretty appearance. By placing a
layer of marmalade among them, at the bottom of the dish,
you may dish them in crown, or any shape you like.

807. Compote of Peaches. Put half a pound of lump sugar
(broken into small pieces) into a stewpan, with a quarter of a
pint of water, which set upon the fire to boil until forming a
thickish syrup ; you have previously cut four ripe peaches in
halves, lay them carefully in the boiling syrup to simmer a
couple of minutes, then carefully remove them with a colander-
spoon on to a hair-sieve to drain, when remove the skins, and
dress the peaches neatly upon your dessert-dish ; reduce the
syrup until of a good consistency, and when cold pour it over,
and they are ready to serve.

808. Compote of Apples. Procure six nice ripe apples, but

308 DESSERT.

not too large, which peel, cut in halves, and cut out the cores,
rub each piece over with a little lemon, and put them into boil-
ing syrup made as last directed, but with the juice of a lemon,
and the rind cut into small fillets added ; let the apple stew
until tender, but not broken, when drain them upon a sieve,
reduce the syrup ; and when both are cold, dress the apple
neatly upon your dish, and pour the syrup over. A little green
angelique, cut in various shapes, will make a pretty ornament
on any white compote.

809. Compote of small Apples, served whole. Select nine
small golden pippins, each as nearly as possible of an equal
size, and with a long round vegetable cutter, of the size of a six-
penny piece, cut out the cores, then peel them very thin and
smooth, rub their surface with lemon juice, and throw them into
a basin of spring water ; have ready boiling half a pint of
syrup, made as before directed, to which add the rind of a lemon
(cut into thin strips), and the juice, lay in the apples, which let
simmer very gently until quite tender, when drain them upon a
hair-sieve, and reduce the syrup until thickish ; when quite
cold, dress the apples upon your dish, five at the bottom, three
upon them, and one upon the top ; when ready to serve, pour
the syrup over.

810. Compote of Green Apricots. Have a pottle of green
apricots, from which pick off all the stalks, and throw them into
a stewpan containing a quart of boiling water, and let them boil
very fast for ten minutes, and drain them upon a sieve : have
ready half a pint of syrup made as before directed, in which
boil them until tender, but not to break, and thicken the syrup,
pour the whole into a basin until quite cold ; should the syrup
then be too thin, strain it off into the stewpan to reduce to a
proper consistency, pouring it again over the apricots when
quite cold. Dish tastefully.

811. Compote of Greengages. Procure twelve green-
gages, not quite ripe, each of which cut into halves ; have ready
boiling half a pint of syrup, as before directed, into which put
half the fruit, let it simmer a couple of minutes, then remove
them with a colander-spoon, draining them upon a sieve ; then

DESSERT. 309

put in the remainder, with which proceed in the same manner ;
remove the skins, put the fruit into a basin, reduce the syrup
until thickish, and when cold, pour it over the fruit, which is
then ready to serve.

Any description of plums may be dressed in precisely the
same method.

812. Compote of Apricots. Procure six very fine ripe apri-
cots, which divide into halves ; have ready half a pint of boil-
ing syrup reduced quite thick, in which let them simmer about
a minute, when pour the whole into a basin until cold ; should
the fruit not be quite ripe, they would require longer time to
simmer. I frequently break the stones and blanch the kernels
to add to the compote ; they are a great improvement, also, to
cherries and plums.

813. Compote of Cherries. Take a pound of fine cherries,
not too ripe, and cut away half the stalks with a pair of scissors ;
have half a pint of syrup, which boil until very thick, when add
half of the cherries, and boil them two or three minutes, take
them out with a colander-spoon, drain them upon a sieve, and
proceed the same with the remaining half ; reduce the syrup
until very thick, dress the cherries pyramidically upon your dish,
stalks uppermost, and when the syrup is cold, pour it over, and
serve.

814. Compote of Oranges. Make a pint of syrup as before;
have six fine oranges, which skin carefully, scraping off as much
of the pith as possible ; divide each orange into eight entire pieces,
without breaking the delicate skin with which they are divided ;
when the syrup is very thick, put in the pieces of oranges, which
simmer gently for five minutes, when take them out with a
colander-spoon, and drain them upon a sieve ; reduce the syrup
very quickly until thickish, and when cold, pour it over the
oranges, which will be then ready to serve. Half the rind of
the oranges, free from pith, cut intoT small fillets, are a great
improvement boiled in the syrup.

815. Compote of French Plums. Put half a pound of

310 DESSERT.

French plums into a stewpan, with a gill of water, the same of
wine, the rind of half a lemon cut thin, two cloves, and a good
spoonful of sugar, let them simmer about twenty minutes, and
when cold take out the lemon and cloves, and they are ready
to serve.

COMPOTES OF FRUIT SIMPLIFIED

As I usually make them when alone, or, if not, for a very ceremo-
nious dinner-party. The whole of the following must be done over a
very slow fire.

816. Pears. Cut six ripe middling-sized pears in halves,
peel neatly, cut out the cores, and put them into a stewpan, with
a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, the juice of a lemon,
the thin rind cut into strips, and a very little drop of water, set
them upon the fire, stewing them until tender ; they will form
their own syrup ; put them in a basin until cold, when they are
ready to serve.

817. Pippins. Peel and cut four apples into quarters, take
out the cores, and stew them as directed for pears, but using
the rind of an orange instead of the rind of a lemon.

818. Oranges. Prepare four oranges as directed (No. 814),
which put into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of pow-
dered sugar, and the juice of another orange ; set them upon
the fire, and when the syrup becomes sufficiently thick to
adhere to the pieces of orange, they are done ; when cold, dress
them in a circle upon your dish, with strips of angelica between
each.

819. Apricots. Cut eight unripe apricots into quarters,
which put into a stewpan, with four ounces of sugar, the juice
of a lemon, and a drop of sherry, set them upon the fire, shak-
ing the stewpan round occasionally, until the apricots are tender,
but not broken ; a very few minutes would be sufficient to stew
them, and when cold, they are ready to serve.

For Peaches, proceed exactly the same ; but if too ripe, they
must be done as directed for compote of peaches.

DESSERT. 311

820. Greengages and other Plums. Put twelve into a stew-
pan with a quarter of a pound of sugar, the juice of a lemon
and a little drop of water, set them over the fire, shaking the
stewpan round occasionally until the fruit is tender, but not
mashed ; when cold, dress them in pyramid, and pour the syrup
over.

821. Cherries. Cut the stalks of a pound of cherries rather
short, and put the fruit into a stewpan, with a quarter of a
pound of sugar and the juice of a lemon ; place them over the
fire (occasionally shaking the pan round), letting them simmer
about two minutes, when take them out with a colander-spoon,
and put them into a basin until cold, reduce the syrup, to which
add sufficient isinglass to set it as a jelly, and pour it upon a
large plate until set, when dress the cherries pyramidically, just
dip the bottom of the plate containing the syrup into warm
water, and turn it as a jelly over the cherries.

822. Green Gooseberries. Put a pint of green gooseberries
into a stewpan with two ounces of sugar and a little sherry,
place them over a sharp fire, as the quicker they cook the better
color they will keep ; when tender but not broken, pour them
into a basin, and when cold they are ready to serve.

823. Red Rhubarb. The small forced rhubarb (Mitchell's
Royal Albert) is by far the best. Cut about half a pound of it
into pieces half an inch in length, which put into a stewpan
with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and a wine-
glassful of water ; set it over a sharp fire, occasionally shak-
ing the stewpan round, and when quite tender pour it into a
basin until cold ; when it is ready to serve, should the syrup
be too thin, add sufficient isinglass to set it, and when cold
dress it pyramidically upon your dish.

824. Currants and Raspberries. Pick the stalks from a pint
of currants, which put into a stewpan with half a pint of rasp-
berries and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar ; set them
upon the fire, shaking the stewpan round occasionally until

312 DESSERT.

boiling, when pour them into a basin to cool. Should the
syrup be too thin, which would be the case if the fruit is too
ripe, drain the fruit from it, reduce it by boiling, and when
cold, pour it again over the fruit, which will then be ready to
serve.

825. Royal Iceing for Calces. Have ready a pound of the
best white sugar, which pound well and sift through a silk
sieve, put it into a basin with the whites of three eggs, beat
well together with a wooden spoon, adding the juice of half a
lemon, keep beating well until it becomes very light and hangs
in flakes from the spoon (if it should be rather too stiff in mix-
ing, add a little more white of egg, if, on the contrary, too
soft, a little more sugar), it is then ready for use where re-
quired.

826. Chocolate Iceing for Cakes is made similar to the last,
but when finished have ready a piece of the common chocolate,
which melt in a stewpan over the fire, keeping it stirred ; when
quite melted stir some of it in with the iceing until you have
obtained the color required, moistening the iceing with a little
more white of egg, and use where directed.

827. Sugar in Grains is made by pounding a quantity of
sugar in a mortar, and sifting off all the fine through a hair-
sieve, then again what remains in the sieve put into a rather
coarse wire sieve, and that which passes through is what is
meant by the above term.

828. How to give color to Sugar. Prepare about half a
pound of the sugar as in the last, which put upon a baking-
sheet; have a spoonful of the essence of spinach, which
stir in with the sugar until every grain is stained, then put them
in a warmish place to dry, but not too hot : to color them red,
use a little prepared cochineal or liquid carmine, instead of the
spinach, and proceed exactly the same : sugar may be made of
other colors by the use of indigo, rouge, saffron, &c. ; but not
being partial to such a variety of coloring, I have merely given

DESSERT. 313

the red and the green, which, with the white, I consider to be
sufficient for any of the purposes for which they are used.

829. Sugar of Vanilla. Chop a stick of well-frosted va-
nilla very small, and put it into a mortar, with half a pound of
lump sugar, pound the whole well together in a mortar, sift
through a hair sieve, and put by in a bottle or jar, corking it
up tight, and using where required.

830. Sugar of Lemon. Rub the rind of some fresh lemons
upon a large piece of sugar, and as it discolors the part upon
which it is rubbed scrape it off with a knife ; when you have
obtained a sufficient quantity, dry a little in the screen, and
bottle for use where required. Orange sugar may be made in
the same manner, substituting very red oranges for the lemons.

831. How to make clear Sugar. Break three pounds of
fine white sugar, the hardest and closest grained is the best, put
it into a sugar-pan, with three pints of clear spring water, set
over a sharp fire, and when beginning to boil place it at the
corner to simmer, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon,
skim well and reduce to two thirds, it is then ready to use for
jellies.

If not able to obtain the best quality of sugar, it would be
necessary to use white of eggs as an assistance in the clarifica-
tion, by putting the white of one egg in a basin and whipping
it well with a pint of cold water, add half of it to the sugar,
whipping it well in, let simmer, adding the remainder by de-
grees whilst simmering, and passing it through a fine cloth into
a basin. The boiling of sugar is divided into seven different
degrees, which may be ascertained by the following direc-
tions :

The first degree is known by dipping a copper skimmer into
it whilst boiling, turning it over two or three times, if the sugar
falls from it in sheets it has attained the first degree.

The second is known by boiling your sugar rather longer,
dipping your finger and thumb into cold water, then your finger
into the boiling sugar, putting your finger and thumb together,
and again opening them, it will form a kind of thread ; if it is
too weak boil a little longer, this is the most useful degree for
fruit or water ices.

314 DESSERT.

The third degree is attained by boiling it a little longer, and
trying it in the same manner, upon the thread baking, should
it form a kind of pearl, it has attained the above degree ; the
sugar in boiling would also be covered with a quantity of small
bubbles resembling pearls.

The fourth degree is attained by boiling it still longer, dip a
skimmer into it, turn, take out and blow it hard, when the sugar
will form little bladders and float in the air, this degree is called
the souffle.

For the fifth degree boil still longer, trying it in the same
manner, but blowing harder, the bladders will be larger and
adhere together, forming feathers ; this degree is called la plume,
or the feather.

The sixth is called le petit casee, and is obtained by boiling
the sugar a little longer : to know this degree have a pint of
cold water in a basin, into which you have put a piece of ice,
dip your finger into it, then into the boiling sugar, and then
into the water again, take the piece which adheres to the finger
and bite, if rather crisp, but sticking to the teeth, it has attained
that degree.

The seventh and last requires great attention, to attain it
boil rather longer, dip your finger in as before, if it cracks and
does not at all adhere to the teeth in biting it is done, take
from the fire, and it is ready for use for making any kind of
sugar ornament.

When intended for such purposes, however, add a little tar-
taric acid when it arrives to the degree la plume and pour it
into a smaller sugar-pan, allowing it to reach the rims, it will
be then unable to burn round the sides as if in a larger pan ;
if such a thing should, however, happen in a larger pan, wipe
the interior of the pan round with a sponge previously dipped
in cold water, or it would discolor the sugar.

Ornaments of spun sugar I have a very great dislike to for
a dinner ; but, if required, the sugar must be boiled to the last
degree. Should the sugar grain it may be brought back by
adding more water, and when dissolved, boiling over again ; in
spinning sugar you must keep the bulk of it in a warm tempe-
rature, having a little in a smaller pan for use, which keep in a
melted state by placing it in a bain-marie of hot water, or in a
Jiot closet.

DESSERT. 315

832. Silk Thread, or Spun Sugar. Having boiled your
sugar to the seventh degree, as in the last, oil the handle of a
wooden spoon, tie two forks together, the prongs turned out-
wards, dip them lightly into the sugar, take out and shake them
to and fro, the sugar running from them over the spoon form-
ing fine silken threads, proceeding thus until you have as much
as you require, take it from the spoon and form it with your
hands into whatever may be directed for the garnishing of any
dish, not, however, too thick, or it would look heavy. An ex-
perienced hand would prefer doing it from the lip of the sugar-
pan.

Other kinds of ornaments from sugar are made in a similar
manner by oiling a mould or shape and running fillets of the
sugar from the lip of the pan over it as tastefully as possible,
but as I have not referred to it in this work I will not enter into
its details. These are more fit for suppers than dinners.

833. Vanilla Ice Cream. Put the yolks of twelve eggs in
a stewpan, with half a pound of sugar, beat well together with
a wooden spoon, in another stewpan have a quart of milk, and
when boiling throw in two sticks of .vanilla, draw it from the
fire, place on the lid and let remain until partly cold, pour it
over the eggs and sugar in the other stewpan, mix well, and
place it over the fire (keeping it stirred) until it thickens and
adheres to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammy
into a basin, let remain until cold, then have ready a pewter
freezing-pot in an ice-pail well surrounded with ice and salt ;*
put the above preparation into it, place on the lid, which must
fit rather tightly, and commence twisting the pot round sharply,
keeping it turned for about ten minutes, when take off the lid,
and with your spatula clear the sides of the interior of the pot,
place the lid on again, turn the pot ten minutes longer, when
again clear the sides and beat the whole well together, until
smooth, it being then about half frozen, then add four glasses
of noyeau or maresquino and a pint and a half of cream well

* To freeze quickly any description of ice the freezing-pot must be well set,
place it in the centre of the pail, which must be large enough to give a space of
four inches all round, break up small twelve pounds of ice, which put round at
the bottom six inches in depth, over which put two pounds of salt, beat down tight
with a rolling-pin, then more ice, then salt, proceeding thus until within three
inches of the top of your freezing-pot ; saltpetre mixed with the salt will facilitate
it in freezing.

316 DESSERT.

whipped, beat the whole well together, place the lid upon the
top, keep twisting it round a quarter of an hour, clear well
from the sides, beat again well together, proceeding thus until
the whole is frozen into a stiff but smooth and mellow sub-
stance ; should you require to keep it some time before serv-
ing, pour the water which has run from the ice out of the pail,
and add fresh ice and salt; when ready to serve work it up
smoothly with your spatula, fill the mould arid proceed as No.
778.

834. Coffee Ice Cream. Proceed exactly as in the last, but
omitting the noyeau or maresquino, and making an infusion
with coffee as directed (No. 40) instead of vanilla.

835. Ice of Chocolate is made similar to the vanilla ice cream,
but omitting the vanilla and liqueur, in the room of which
scrape a quarter of a pound of chocolate, place it in a stewpan
over the fire and keep stirring until melted, then have ready
boiling a quart of milk, which mix with the chocolate by de-
grees, finish with eggs and sugar, and freeze as before.

836. Ice of Pine-apple. Procure a rather small pine-apple,
take off the rind, which reserve, and cut the apple into pieces
an inch in length and about the thickness of a quill, place them
in a sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of
water, set it upon the fire and reduce to a rather thickish syrup,
have ready a pint and a half of milk upon the fire, into which,
when boiling, throw the rind of the pine-apple, cover it over
and let infuse ten minutes ; in another stewpan have the yolks
of twelve eggs, to which add the milk by degrees (previously
straining it), place over the fire, keeping it stirred until adhering
to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammy into
a basin, add the syrup and pine-apple, and freeze it as in the
last, adding a pint and a half of whipped cream ; when half
frozen, use where directed.

837. Lemon Ice Cream. Take the rind from six lemons as
thin as possible and free from pith, squeeze the juice of the

DESSERT. 317

lemons into a sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar and half
a pint of water, place it upon the fire and reduce until rather a
thickish syrup, have a pint and a half of milk upon the fire,
into which, when boiling, throw the rind of the lemons, cover
over and let remain until half cold ; in another stewpan have
the yolks of twelve eggs (to which you have added an ounce
of sugar), with which mix the milk by degrees, and stir over
the fire till it adheres to the back of the spoon, when stir in the
syrup and pass it through a tammy ; when cold, freeze as di-
rected (No. 833), adding a pint of whipped cream when half
frozen.

838. Orange Ice Cream. Proceed precisely as in the last,
but using the juice and rind of ten oranges instead of lemons
as there directed.

839. Apricot Ice Cream. Procure a dozen and a half of
fine ripe apricots, which cut in halves, take out the stones, which
break, extracting the kernels, which blanch in very hot water
and skin, then put them with the apricots into a sugar-pan,
with half a pound of sugar and half a glassful of water, let
them boil until almost forming a marmalade, when put them
by in a basin, have the yolks of twelve eggs in a stewpan, with
which mix by degrees a pint and a half of milk, set over the
fire, keeping it stirred until thick enough to adhere to the back
of the spoon, when pass it through a tammy into a basin, add
the syrup and apricots, and, when cold, three glasses of noyeau,
freeze as in No. 833, and, when half frozen, add a pint of good
whipped cream.

840. Strawberry Ice Cream. Procure about two pounds of
fine ripe strawberries, which pick and rub through a hair-sieve
with a wooden spoon, obtaining all the juice and pulp of the
strawberries, with which mix half a pound of powdered sugar
and put it by in a basin ; in a stewpan have the yolks of twelve
eggs, with which mix by degrees a pint and a half of milk, stir
over the fire until it becomes thickish, adhering to the back of
the spoon, when pass it through a tommy, and when cold add
the juice from the strawberries and three glasses of maraschino,
freeze it as directed (No. 833), adding a pint of whipped cream

318 DESSERT.

when half frozen and sufficiently prepared ; cochineal, to give
it a strawberry color, if approved of.

841. Marmalade of Apple. Peel and cut thirty apples in
slices, taking out the cores, and, if for preserving, to every
pound of fruit put three quarters of a pound of broken sugar
(but, if for immediate use, half a pound would be quite suffi-
cient), place the whole in a large preserving-pan, with half a
spoonful of powdered cinnamon and the rind of a lemon chopped
very fine, set the pan over a sharp fire, stirring it occasionally
until boiling, when keep stirring until becoming rather thick ; it
is then done : if for immediate use, a smaller quantity would
be sufficient, which put by in a basin until cold ; but if to keep
any time put it in jars, which cover over with paper, and tie
down until wanted.

842. Marmalade of Apricots. Stone about eight pounds
of ripe fleshy apricots, break the stones, and blanch and skin
the kernels, which with the apricots put into a preserving-pan,
add six pounds of sugar and place it over a sharp fire, stirring
occasionally until boiling, when keep stirring until becoming
rather thick, take it off, put it in jars, and when cold tie paper
over, and put by until ready for use.

843. Quince Jam Puree. Procure a sieve of fine ripe
quinces, which peel and cut in four, taking out the cores, place
them in a large preserving-pan and cover with cold water ; set
upon the fire, and when boiling and tender to the touch, place
them in a large sieve to drain one hour, pass them through a
tammy, then have ready a corresponding weight of sugar boiled
to the sixth degree (No. 831) in the preserving-pan, to which
add the puree of quinces, keep stirring over the fire till forming
thin sheets, drop a little upon the cover of a stewpan, if it sets
quickly take it from the fire, put it in small jars, and let remain
a day until quite cold, when tie them down, and put by until
wanted.

844. Apricot Marmalade Jam. Procure a quantity of very

DESSERT. 319

ripe apricots, each of which cut into four or six pieces, break the
stones and blanch the kernels, put the apricots in a preserving-
pan with a small quantity of water, boil them until quite tender,
when pass them through a sieve ; to every pound of fruit have
three quarters of a pound of sugar (in a preserving-pan) boiled
to the sixth degree (No. 831), add the apricots with their ker-
nels, and keep stirring over the fire, until forming thin trans-
parent sheets, try when done as in the last, and put away in pots.
The marmalade would be still more transparent if you were to
peel the apricots first, but then you would lose some of their
delicious flavor.

845. Marmalade of Cherries. Procure a sieve of bright
Kentish cherries, pull out the stalks and stones, and put the
fruit in a preserving-pan, place over the fire, keeping it stirred
until reduced to two-thirds ; have in another preserving-pan, to
every pound of fruit, half a pound of sugar boiled to the sixth
degree (No. 831), into which pour the -fruit when boiling hot,
let reduce, keep stirring until you can just see the bottom of
the pan, when take it from the fire, and fill your jars as before.

A plainer way is to take off the stalks and stone the fruit,
place them in a pan over a sharp fire, and to every pound of
fruit add nearly a pound of sugar, keep stirring until reduced
as above, and let it get partly cold in the pan before filling the
jars.

846. Straioberry Jam. Pick twelve pounds of very red
ripe strawberries, which put into a preserving-pan, with ten
pounds of sugar (broken into smallish pieces), place over a
sharp fire, keep continually stirring, boiling it until the surface
is covered with clearish bubbles, try a little upon a cover, if it
sets, fill the jars as before.

847. Raspberry Jam. Pick twelve pounds of raspberries,
and pass them through a fine sieve to extract the seeds, boil
as many pounds of sugar as you have pounds of fruit to the
sixth degree (No. 831), when add the pulp of the fruit, keep
stirring over the fire, reducing it until you can just see the
bottom of the pan, take it from the fire, and put it into jars as
before.

320 DESSERT.

848. Jelly of Apple. Cut six dozen of sound rennet apples
in quarters, take out all the pips, put them into a sugar-pan,
just cover them with cold water, and place over the fire, let
boil until the apples become quite pulpy, when drain them
upon a sieve, catching the liquor in a basin, which afterwards
pass through a new and very clean jelly-bag ; to every pint of
liquor have one pound of sugar, which boil to the sixth degree
as directed (831) ; when, whilst hot, mix in the liquor from
the apple with a very clean skimmer ; to prevent it boiling
over keep it skimmed, lift the skimmer occasionally from the
pan, and when the jelly falls from it in thin sheets, take it up
and fill the pots as before ; the smaller pots are the best adapted
for jellies.

849. Jelly of Quince. Proceed exactly as directed in the
last, but using quinces instead of apples.

850. Sweetmeat of Currant Jelly. Put half a sieve of
fine red currants in a large stewpan, with a gallon of white
currants and a gallon of raspberries, add a quart of water,
place over the fire, keep stirring, to prevent them sticking to
the bottom, and let boil about ten minutes, pour them into a
sieve to drain, catching the juice in a basin and draining the
currants quite dry, pass the juice whilst hot through a clean
jelly-bag, have a pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and
proceed precisely as directed for apple jelly. Should you have
time to pick the currants from the stalks previous to boiling,
you would lose that bitter flavor, and have less difficulty in
making your jelly clear.

851. Currant Jelly is made precisely as in the last, omitting
the raspberries, the difference being in the use ; the last being
adapted for the garnishing of pastry, and this to use for sauces,
or to serve with hares, venison, or any other meat, where re-
quired.

A more simple method of making currant jelly is to rub the
fruit through a sieve, and afterwards squeeze it through a fino
linen cloth, put it into a preserving-pan with, to every pint of
juice, three quarters of a pound of white sugar ; place over a

DESSERT. 321

sharp fire, stirring occasionally with a skimmer, keeping it well
skimmed ; it is done when dropping in sheets as before from
the skimmer. For my own part, I prefer this last simple
method, being quicker done, and retaining more of the full
freshness of the fruit.

It is not my intention to give a description of the various methods
of preserving fruits, which belongs to the confectionery department ; that
1 shall do in the Letters from the Farm ; I have, however, given the
few foregoing receipts, they being required for reference from various
parts of this work, and being all that are required for the garnishing
of dishes for the second course; various other fruits may, however,
be made into marmalades and jellies by following those few simple
directions.

SALADS OF VARIOUS FRUITS.

You will perceive, my dear Eloise, that there is no end to the varia-
tion of dishing fruits for desserts ; the following being more simple than
any, and within the reach of almost every individual.

852. Salad of Oranges. Select four good oranges, the
thinnest rind ones are preferable; cut them crosswise into
slices double the thickness of a crown-piece, dress them round
upon your dish, one piece resting half-way upon the other ;
shake one ounce of sifted sugar over, pour over a good table-
spoonful of brandy, and it is ready ; to serve it out, put two
pieces upon the plate of each guest, with a spoonful of the
syrup. Slices of red Malta oranges, dressed alternately with
the other, has a pleasing effect. Any kind of liquor may be
used, as also might whiskey, rum, or that white cream or blue
devil commonly called g ; dear me, I quite forget the name.

853. Salad of Strawberries. Pick the stalks from a pottle
of very fine strawberries, which put into a basin with half a
teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, two glasses of brandy, and
an ounce of sifted sugar, toss them lightly over, and dress
them in pyramid upon your dish, pouring the syrup over ;
these should only be dressed a few minutes before serving ;
the brandy might be omitted. If handy, a glass of maraschino,
substituted for brandy, makes them delicious.

854. Salad of Peaches. Procure four ripe peaches, which
U*

322 DESSERT.

peel and cut into quarters ; put them into a basin with two
ounces of sugar and a glass of sherry, toss them lightly over,
dress upon your dish and serve. Apricots, greengages, and
other plums are dressed in salads in the same manner, leaving
their skins on.

855. Salad of Currants and Raspberries. Put an equal
quantity of each, making rather more than a pint, into a basin,
with two ounces of powdered sugar-candy, and a little powdered
cinnamon, toss them over lightly, and they are ready to serve.

856. Pine Apples. I have tried several experiments with
the West Indian pine-apples, many of which being rather stale
when they arrive here, would make an unsightly appearance
whole upon the table, but made into a compote or salad, they
are really excellent, having also the advantage of being very
cheap.

For a compote, peel one rather thickly, to leave no black
spots upon it, make a syrup with half a pound of sugar, as
directed (No. 831), cut your pine-apple into round slices a
quarter of an inch in thickness, which put into the syrup,
boiling them ten minutes ; take them out with a colander-
spoon, reduce the syrup until thickish, and pour it over the
pine-apple ; when cold it is ready to serve.

For a salad, peel and cut a pine-apple into small square dice,
which put into a basin with two ounces of sugar-candy (pow-
dered) and a glass of noyeau, toss all well together and serve.

For marmalade, pair and cut into small pieces several small
pine-apples, and to every quart thus cut up add one pound of
fine sugar, boil for half an hour, and put in a pot.

857. Cake of Savoy in mould. Have ready a large high
mould lightly buttered (with a soft brush, and clarified butter),
turn the mould up to drain, and when the butter is quite set
throw some finely sifted sugar into it ; move the mould round
until the sugar has adhered to every part, after which turn out
the superfluous sugar, tie a band of buttered paper round at
the top, and place it in a cool place until the mixture is
ready. Place the yolks of fourteen eggs in a basin, with one

DESSERT. 823

pound of sugar (upon which you have rubbed the rind of two
lemons previous to pounding), beat well together with a wooden
spoon until nearly white, then whip the whites of the eggs
very stiff, add them to the yolks and sugar, with six ounces
of flour and six ounces of potato-flour, mix the whole lightly
but well together, and fill the mould rather more than three
parts full, place it in a very moderate oven one hour, keeping
the oven-door shut ; then try when done as directed in the
last, if done take off the paper and turn it out upon a sieve
until quite cold. The above mixture being more delicate than
the last, would not do so well for removes, but may be used
for that purpose by being made three or four days before it is
required.

858. Savoy Cakes, or Ladies' Fingers. Have the weight of
nine eggs of sugar in a bowl, which put into a bain-marie of
hot water, weigh the same weight of flour, which sift through a
wire sieve upon paper, break the eggs into a bowl, and proceed
as directed for sponge-cake ; then with a paper funnel or bag,
with a thin pipe made for that purpose, lay it out upon papers
into biscuits three inches in length and the thickness of your
little finger, sift sugar over, shaking off all that does not adhere
to them ; place them upon baking-sheets, and bake in rather a
warm oven of a brownish-yellow color, when done and cold,
detach them from the paper by wetting it at the back, place them
a short time to dry, and they are ready for use for charlotte
russe, or wherever directed.

859. Sponge Cake. Put one pound of powdered sugar in a
good-sized bowl, which stand in a bain-marie of hot water ; sift
one pound of flour upon a sheet of paper, then break twelve
eggs into the bowl with the sugar, which whisk rather quickly
until they become a little warm and rather thickish, then take
the bowl from the bain-marie, and continue whisking until nearly
or quite cold ; then add the chopped rind of a lemon and the
flour, which mix lightly with a wooden spoon ; have ready your
mould or baking-dish lightly buttered, into which you have put
a little flour, knocking out all that does not adhere to the butter,
pour in the mixture and place it one hour in a moderate oven,
it may require longer or not so long, but that will depend en-

324 DESSERT.

tirely upon the compass you have it in ; if done it will feel firm
to the touch, but the surest method is to run a thin wooden
skewer into the centre, if it comes out clean the cake is done,
but if not some of the mixture would adhere to it ; care should
be taken not to disturb it until quite set, or it would sink in the
centre, and never properly bake ; when done turn it out upon a
sieve to cool. Serve where indicated.

860. Small Sponge Calces. Put six whole eggs into an
earthen pan with half a pound of sugar, upon which you have
previously rubbed the rind of a lemon, stand the pan in very
hot water, keeping its contents well mixed until becoming
rather warm, when take it from the water, continuing to whisk
until quite cold and thickish, when stir in gently half a pound
of sifted flour ; have ready buttered, and dusted with sugar, about
a dozen small sponge-cake tins, put a tablespoonful of the mix-
ture into each, shake sugar over, and bake them in a moderate
oven.

861. Pound Cakes. Put one pound of butter into an
earthen pan with a pound of powdered sugar, and a little grated
nutmeg, beat them well together with the hand until forming
a smooth lightish cream, when add by degrees eight eggs, beat-
ing it ten minutes after, when add a pound and a quarter of
sifted flour, stir it in lightly, and put the mixture into hoops
to bake.

862. Queen's Cakes. Weigh of butter the weight of six
eggs, and nine of powdered sugar, which put together in an
earthen pan, beat well with the hand until forming a smooth
cream, when add by degrees nine eggs, and when well beat, stir
in the weight of nine eggs of flour and half a pound of cur-
rants ; have ready buttered about a dozen little round cake
pans, fill each one rather better than three parts full with the
mixture, shake sugar over, and bake them in a moderate oven.
If no cake pans, drop the mixture upon paper in pieces half
the size of a walnut, and an inch and a half apart, shake sugar
ever, bake in a warm oven, and, when done, remove them from
the papers.

DESSERT.

325

3 pound of ground almonds,
id sugar, mixing the whole

863. Almond Cakes. Procure one
to which add two pounds of powdered sugar, mixing
with the whites of nine eggs, beating the mixture well with a
wooden spoon for about ten minutes, lay them out upon wafer
paper of an oval shape with a tablespoon, put three or four
strips of almonds upon the top of each, and bake them in a
slow oven ; when done, break away all the wafer paper but
that which adheres to the bottom of the paper, and, when cold,
they are ready for use.

864. Cocoa-Nut Biscuits. Scrape four cocoa nuts, to which
add the same weight of powdered sugar, mix with whites of
eggs, beating with a wooden spoon until forming a softish but
thick paste ; lay the mixture out upon wafer-paper in small
drops, baking them as directed in the last.

865. Moss Biscuits. Weigh half a pound of flour, to which
add an ounce and a half of butter and five ounces of sugar, rub
them well together and mix with one whole and one white of
egg and a teaspoonful of milk ; then add two ounces of ground
almonds, which rub well into the paste ; afterwards rub the
whole through a gauze wire sieve, taking it off in small pieces,
which lay upon a lightly-buttered baking-sheet, and bake them
in a moderate oven.

866. Rout Cakes. Procure one pound of ground almonds,
to which add one pound of powdered sugar, mixing them to-
gether with yolks of eggs until forming a stiffish but flexible
paste, when form it into small biscuits of the shapes of coronets,
bunches of filberts, birds' nests, or any other shapes your fancy
may dictate ; let them remain five or six hours, or all night,
upon the baking-sheet, and bake them in a warm oven.

867. Rout Biscuits. Boil a pound and a quarter of lump
sugar, upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon, in
half a pint of milk ; when cold, rub half a pound of butter with
two pounds of flour, make a hole in the centre, pour in the
milk with as much carbonate of soda as would he upon a six-

326 DESSERT.

pe
la

nce, and a couple of eggs, mix the whole into a smooth paste,
ay it out upon your baking-sheet in whatever flat shapes you
please, and bake them in a very warm oven.

The proper way to shape these biscuits is by wooden blocks
having leaves, pine-apples, and other devices carved upon them.

868. Cream Biscuits. Rub one pound of fresh butter into
one pound of flour, make a hole in the centre, into which put
half a pound of powdered sugar upon which the rind of a lemon
was rubbed previously to pounding, and three whole eggs, mix
the eggs well with the sugar, and then mix all together, form-
ing a flexible paste ; cut it into round pieces each nearly as large
as a walnut, stamp them flat with a butter-stamp of the size of
a crown-piece, and bake them in a slack oven.

869. Shrewsbury Cakes. Weigh one pound of flour, into
which rub half a pound of butter and six ounces of flour, make
a hole in the centre, into which break a couple of eggs, and
add sufficient milk to form a flexible paste, which roll out to
the thickness of a penny-piece, and cut it into small cakes with
a round cutter; bake them in a moderate oven.

Ginger Cakes are made precisely as the above, but adding
half an ounce of ground ginger before mixing ; and Cinnamon
Cakes, by rubbing in an ounce and a half of ground cinnamon
after the paste is mixed.

870. Macaroons. Blanch and skin half a pound of sweet
almonds, dry them well in your screen, then put them into a
mortar with a pound and a half of lump sugar, pound well
together, and pass the whole through a wire sieve ; put it again
into a mortar, with the whites of two eggs, mix well together
with the pestle, then add the white of another egg, proceeding
thus until you have used the whites of about ei^ht eggs and
made a softish paste, when lay them out at equal distances, apart
upon wafer-paper, in pieces nearly the size of walnuts, place
some strips of almonds upon the top, sift sugar over, and bake
in a slow oven of a yellowish brown color ; they are done when
set quite firm through.

THE DINNER-TABLE.

327

871. Ratafias. Ratafias are made similar to the above, but
deducting two ounces of sweet, and adding two ounces of bitter
almonds ; they are laid out in much smaller cakes upon com-
mon paper, and baked in a much warmer oven ; when cold,
they may be taken off the paper with the greatest ease.

These cakes are very serviceable in making a great many
second-course dishes.

872. Italian Drops. Have a mixture similar to the above,
merely a liqueur glassful of best noyeau, lay it in round drops
upon paper, and bake in a hot oven without sifting any sugar
over; when taken from the papers, dry them a little in the
screen, and they are ready to serve.

The bottoms may be spread over with apricot marmalade,
and two stuck together just previous to being served, if ap-
proved of.

873. St. James's Cake. Put one pound of very fresh but-
ter in a good-sized kitchen basin, and with the right hand
work it up well till it forms quite a white cream ; then add one
pound powdered sugar, mix well, add ten eggs by degrees ;
put to dry a pound and a quarter of flour, which mix as lightly
as possible with it ; blanch and cut in slices two ounces of pis-
tachios, two ditto of green preserved angelica, add two liqueur
glasses of noyeau, two drops of essence of vanilla ; whip a gill
and a half of cream till very thick, mix lightly with a wooden
spoon.

LETTER No. XVII.

THE DINNER-TABLE.

MY DEAR ELOISE, I thank you for your kind compliment, but I have
always been of opinion that the arrangements and serving of a dinner-
table, have as much to do with the happiness and pleasure of a party
as the viands which are placed upon it ; this I had a practical proof of
last week. Mr. B. and myself were invited to dine with Mr. D., a city
friend, at Balham Hill ; I had before met Mrs. D. at an evening party,
at hi-< partner's, at Hackney, and knew little of her.

Dinner was served pretty punctually, only half an hour after time.
On my entrance in the room, my first glance at the table showed me

328 THE DINNER-TABLE.

that there was a want of savoir-faire in its management : the plate,
very abundant and splendid, was of so yellow a cast that it looked as
if it were plated, and the cut glass was exceedingly dim. My first sur-
prise was that there were no napkins, the next the soup plates were
quite cold, which I have found often the case in other houses ; after
being served with fish, and waiting until it was cold for the sauce to eat
with it, I was rather sceptical how the rest of the dinner would pro-
gress. After the first, the second course made its appearance, which
was heavy and too abundant ; the plain things were well done, but
there was only one servant in the room for the whole party of fourteen,
and from the strict formality of the table, it would have been a sacri-
lege to have handed your plate for any vegetables, or anything else
you might require. There were four saltcellars, certainly very massive
silver ones, at each corner of the table, and a beautiful cruet-frame in
the centre ; the hot dishes of this course, like the previous one, became
cold and tasteless before being eaten, and during the time the servant
was serving the champagne, all the plates were empty ; in fact it was
a good dinner spoilt. The wine drank with less gout than usual, and
the long pauses between the courses made the formality appear still
greater than it really was, and made you wish for the time to arrive for
the cloth to be removed, which was not done, only the slips, a most
awkward undertaking for one servant, and should never be practised
unless having at least two.

About half an hour after the cloth was removed, and just as the con-
versation was being thawed from the freezing it received at the dinner-
table, Mrs. D. and the ladies withdrew, and for an hour and a half we
had to bear the insipid conversation of the drawing-room, the hissing
urn on the tea-table bearing a prominent part. Several messages were
sent from tune to time to the dining-room that coifee was ready ; and
when at last the gentlemen came, two had had quite wine enough,
which caused them to receive sundry angry looks from their wives who
were present, and who were glad to get them into their carriages
which were waiting, and right glad indeed was I when ours was an-
nounced.

This all happened, my dear Eloise, not from meanness ; for if money
could have purchased it nothing would have been wanting, but solely
from want of management ; and every one should think before they in-
vite their friends to partake of their hospitality, if they know how to
entertain them. Money of course will provide delicacies of all kinds,
but to know how to dispose of those delicacies to the best advantage,
that your friends may appreciate them, is what is sadly wanting in
more than one house I visit.

A very excellent remark is made in Punch by Mr. Brown, in his
Letters to a Young Man about Town, on the subject of great and little
dinners. He says : " Properly considered the quality of the dinner is
twice blest ; it blesses him that gives, and him that takes ; a dinner
with friendliness is the best of all friendly meetings a pompous enter-
tainment, where no love is, is the least satisfactory."

Our dinner on which you compliment me so much, we sat down
twelve, for although the room and table would accommodate more, yet

THE DINNER-TABLE. 329

as my service of plate is for that number, and the arrangements of the
kitchen are limited, that is the number I prefer, besides beyond which
the conversation becomes partial, which is the bane of a dinner-table.
You know we have no regular man-servant, but for these occasions I
hire two, and place one on each side the table, and they each have their
own side table with a change of everything that is required. The first
thing to be looked to is the lights : these ought to be so placed as not
to intercept the view of any person at the table, but at the same time
they ought to be enough to show everything off to advantage ; I prefer
removing some of the lights from the table to the sideboard when the
cloth is removed, as the light after dinner ought to be more subdued.
In laying the cloth we place it over the baize, and remove it after din-
ner, as Mr. B. says he likes to see the mahogany, for when he asks a
city friend to come and put his feet under his mahogany, it looks rather
foolish if he never sees it. I have, as you know, my table rather wide,
that is, six feet, and I generally place a vase of flowers in the centre,
as I think their freshness and odor add greatly to the appearance of the
table, and admit a flanc on each side. We prefer the old English plan
of taking the top and bottom of the table, instead of I and Mr. B.
being together at the side.

The cloth being laid with its proper side uppermost, I order a nap-
kin, two knives, two prongs, two tablespoons, and two wine-glasses to
be placed to each person, a saltcellar between every other, that being a
condiment wliich every one uses, though often wrongly ; the cruet-
frames and other requisites are kept on the sideboards. I then have
the fish and soup served together, the potatoes and sauce on the side-
board ; I serving the soup, and Mr. B. the fish, and often a little dish of
fried fish, such as smelts, &c., to remove the soups. This gives me an
opportunity of seeing that my guests are properly attended to, and
also leisure of taking wine with any gentleman who challenges me.
During the time this course has been progressing, the cook has had
time to dish up the removes nice and hot, and get all up close to the
door, as I like as little time as possible to intervene in changing the
dishes; and these consist generally of variously dressed chickens,
which I have before me, as this gives an opportunity for the gentleman
on my right to display his gallantry ; but, thanks to Soyer's separator,
this is an easy task. "This affords me still further leisure to pay atten-
tion to my guests. Mr. B., who is a capital carver, either has a saddle
or a haunch of mutton, or a quarter of lamb before him, the rest of the
dishes consisting of a tongue and entrees. I select those most easy to
carve, and also easy for the cook to prepare. This is a period of din-
ner where a great deal depends upon the attendants ; they should know
almost by the look what thi* lady or that gentleman require, and what
kind of vegetables to hand them ; a firstrate butler should be able to
judge by the physiognomy to whom he should offer mint sauce with
the lamb, and who prefers cayenne ; on their attention and hot plates,
depends the success of the substantial part of the dinner.

As soon as I see that all are served, and words are few in conse-
quence of the organ wliich utters them being employed in another
way, I give a look to the two servants, which they understand, and im-

330 THE DINNER-TABLE.

mediately two reports are heard, they are from two bottles of cham-
pagne, opened at the same time by the attendants, who have each a sal-
ver with six glasses on it ; this takes but a short time to serve, and pre-
pares the palate for the entrees, which generally get praised ; indeed
my cook would think something was wrong if two of the dishes did
not go down empty. By having the champagne thus, I find it goes
much further than if only one bottle was opened at the time, there
being sufficient left in the bottles for a gentleman to challenge a lady to
take champagne with him. If I have game I remove the top and bot-
tom dishes with them, and make the sweets a separate course, taking
care to have cold plates for the jelly, and having the liquors handed
round when the sweets are on the table ; one cheese I place opposite
Mr. B., and macaroni opposite myself. Objections have been made to
the use of napkins, as being of no service at an English dinner-table,
and only a copy of the dirty manners of our neighbors. If we are
more cleanly at the table than they are (wliich I question), there is no
reason why we should not use that which would make us still more so ;
but Mr. B. is so well pleased with the rose water which he has at the
court dinners of his company, that he made me a present of those two
beautiful dishes which you admired so much. The outside compart-
ment holds rose-water, and the inner one a little eau-de-cologne ; these
are placed on salvers, and pass down each side of the table, the corner
of each napkin being dipped into it. They seem to be absolutely re-
quired, and I must say they form a delightful adjunct to the dinner-
table.

He* has also introduced at our table, but only at Christmas, another
city custom, which the gentlemen seem very much to like, I cannot
say so for the ladies ; it is what he calls a loving cup ; he has it placed
before him when the cheese is put on ; and after filling the glass of the
lady on each side of him, he rises and drinks to their health and the
rest of the company, and then passes it to the gentleman on the left,
who, in like manner, fills the glass of the lady on his left, rises, drinks
to her health and the company, and thus it goes round the table. Your
husband, my dear Eloise, thought that the contents were exceedingly
good, or, as he expressed it, nectar fit for the gods, and would like to
have the receipt, here it is as Mr. B. prepares it : The cup holds two
quarts ; he places in it half a teacupful of capillaire ; if he has none, he
uses dissolved lump sugar, with a few drops of orange-flower water in
it, one pint of brown sherry, one bottle of good Edinburgh ale, mixing
these together, and a minute before placing on the table, adding one
bottle of soda water, stirring it well up till it froths ; he then grates
some nutmeg on the froth, and places a piece of toast in it, and sends
it to the table with a napkin through the handle ol the cup. I must
say, since we have had this, it has produced some most interesting con-
versation as regarded the antiquity of the custom, <fec. In addition, Mr.
B. bought the cup at a sale, and it is stated to have been drunk out of
by Henry the Eighth : this of itself is a subject of conversation, and

* With regard to the wine, that is a matter I leave entirely to Mr. B., but his
maxim is, that "the best is the cheapest."

THE DINNER-TABLE. 331

draws out the talents and conversational powers of our guests, and one
in which ladies can join, as there is hardly one of our sex who has not
read Miss Strickland's " Queens of England." You have often made
the remark, that the time always appears short whilst we are at table ;
this is, no doubt, from the animated conversation which is kept up, for
that is the real motive of meeting together, to enjoy the conversation
of one another, to gain and impart information, and amuse ourselves
with the wit and talent of those around us, and not for the sake of eat-
ing and drinking ; yet without the assistance of both of these, the
most sparkling wit would be as heavy as a bad souffle, and the bright-
est talent as dull as my looking-glass on a foggy day.

In order to prolong the time, and to enjoy the gentlemen's society as
much as possible, I do not have the dessert placed on the table until ten
or twenty minutes after the cloth is removed ; this also gives an oppor-
tunity for my guests to admire the beautiful Sevres dessert plates,
containing views of the French chateaux; this of course gives a subject
for conversation to those who have visited them. In the dessert I gene-
rally introduce some new importation, such as bananas, sugar-cane,
American lady apples, prickly pears, <fcc. ; these also give a subject for
the gentlemen to talk about when the ladies have left, as free trade,
colonial policy, (fee. About half an hour after the dessert is on the
table, and when I see that the conversation is becoming less general, I
retire to the drawing-room ; the servants then remove the dirty glass
and plates, and Mr. B. introduces some of his choice claret or Burgundy
in ice coolers.

You know, my dear Eloise, I allow very little more than half an hour
for us to talk about the last new fashions, or of Mrs. A. and B.'s cap,
and the young ones about their partners at the last ball, and other
nothings, when the tea and coffee are brought up on salvers ; it is al-
ways made down stairs, and sent up in cups to the drawing-room, al-
though Mr. B. had a very handsome silver service presented to him just
after we were married, for serving as an honorary secretary to some
grand masonic festival, yet the' rnilk ewer and sugar basin are all I
allow in the room. This does away with the formality of the tea-table
and the hissing of the tea-urn ; it allows some young gentlemen with a
Byron collar and a little down under his chin to turn over the pages of
a music-book for a young lady at the piano, and make his coffee at the
same time ; it allows my dear mamma and Mr. P. to make up their
whist table, and have their tea whilst playing ; or, if we make up a
quadrille, to have a few turns of a waltz or polka, the coffee is serving
during the time ; whilst this is going on the hand of the clock advances,
and half-past ten soon arrives, and with it Mrs. C.'s fly; Dr. D.'s
brougham is at the door ; the party breaks up. delighted with the
evening they have passed in each other's society: and this you see
done with trifling management.

332 BEVERAGES FOR EVENING PARTIES.

LETTER No. XVIII.

DEAREST ELOISE, You are right in your remark, that there is a great
difference as to the manner and way in which evening parties or soirees
are given in different houses, although being frequented by the same
party or circle. I must say I have my own ideas on this subject, and
I think the French understand this matter much better than we do, and
that we could not do better than imitate them. We English are a
plodding, matter-of-fact people, and carry our notions into every con-
cern in hfe : our dinners and entertainments are given with an ulterior
object, and with a view of what may be gained from it, even from the
charitable dinner at the London Tavern to the man who asks another
to partake of a pint of beer with him at a public-house. It is this, to-
gether with ostentation, which is the bane of society, by bringing together
people of incongruity of ideas, destroying that free exchange of thought
which constitutes the true pleasure of social reunions ; we are also nat-
urally of a reserved and cautious disposition : hence the reason why the
pleasures of a soiree are not felt until after supper. Of these I am a
great advocate, though not to the extravagant and outre manner many
are given in the present day. Of course in the way most ladies are now
educated, they would rather be attending to the adornment of their
persons for the occasion than to the entertainment and amusement of
their guests. Those who can afford it, are quite right to patronize a
first-rate confectioner, and thus save themselves the trouble ; but how
many that cannot afford it do the same thing, and make a bargain for a
bad supper with one, by wliich he gains little, and the guests great dis-
gust, instead of doing it at home and ordering a few good things which
would look and eat well. There are a variety of drinks which could be
made at a moderate expense, good and wholesome, and infinitely better
than bad Marsala, which you are often obliged to partake of. I will
enclose you a few receipts for them, an,d some bills of fare for suppers
for small soirees.

BEVERAGES FOR EVENING PARTIES.

874. Lemonade. Peel six lemons free from pith, cut them
up in small pieces, and put them with two cloves in a bottle,
with half a pint of hot water, and place it in a bain-marie, or
stewpan, with boiling water, and let it stand by the side of the
fire for one or two hours, taking care it does not boil ; remove
it and let it remain until cold ; then take half a pint of lemon-
juice, half a pint of capillaire if none, use sugar, that will
make the same quantity of syrup to which add a few drops
of orange-flower water ; add the infusion of the rind, stir well
together, and add two quarts of cold water. The acidity of

SANDWICHES. 333

some lemons is greater than others, in which case, and also if
using lime-juice, more capillaire must be used.

875. Cold Punch. Proceed as above for lemonade, but
add one pint of capillaire to half a pint of lemon-juice, one
pint of pale brandy, one pint of pale rum, one tablespoonful
of arrack, and five quarts of cold water ; let it remain some
time before it is decantered.

876. Port Wine Negus. Take one quart of new port wine,
of a fruity character, one tablespoonful of spirit of cloves, one
teacupful of sugar, one lemon sliced, half a nutmeg grated,
pour over these two quarts of boiling water.

877. White Wine Fillip. Take one bottle of sherry or
Madeira, or champagne, or any other good white wine, a gill
of noyeau or maraschino, the juice of half a lemon, add to
it one quart of calf's foot jelly well sweetened and boiling hot,
and serve immediately.

878. Sandwiches. In making a large quantity, a stale
quartern loaf should be taken and trimmed free from all crust,
and cut into slices the eighth of an inch in thickness, slightly
buttered, and then thin slices of meat, nicely trimmed, may be
laid on and covered with another slice of bread, and then cut
into eight parts ; should they be but some time before they are
wanted, they ought to be put one over the other, as they thus
keep moist, a little mustard and salt may be added to the
meat, if preferred. Some thin slices of gherkin may be added
to the meat, and the same plan can be adopted with pickled
fish, brawn or sausages.

The following varies the common mode of making sand-
wiches :

Take a small quantity of very fresh cream cheese, put it
into a basin or a marble mortar, add some salt, pepper, and a
little mustard, beat it well up until it is of the same consist-
ence as butter ; if too hard add a little of the latter, and use
it as butter on the bread, with slices of meat between. Or

334 BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC.

make it into salad sandwiches : cover the bread as before, and
have ready some mustard and cress and water-cresses well
washed and dried, put into a bowl with mayonnaise sauce, and
when ready to serve place it neatly between the bread.

LETTER No. XIX.

Farm, Essex, July , 1849.

MY DEAR ELOISE, You are no doubt surprised at receiving this from
the above address, but you remember when you last called I thought
my little Emily was unwell, the next day she seemed worse, I then had
the Dr. , who ordered her out of town, and a friend of Mr. B.'s being
present recommended this place ; so Emily and I have now been a week
here, and she has already improved by the change of air ; it has also
done me good, and I am greatly amused with the various occupations
going on in the farm, which is an old-fashioned one, tenanted by a good
old English farmer, his wife, and son ; the latter is gone to see a brother
settled in Liverpool. The cleanliness and regularity of the house are
quite charming; but what delights me more than all is the dairy such
delicious cream and butter that it makes me quite envy people living
in the country !

I must describe the pretty dairy to you : it is situated at the back of
the house, and sheltered by it from the mid-day and afternoon's sun,
and from the morning's sun by a plantation, so that it is deliciously
cool ; it is about twelve feet long by ten wide, paved with flat stones,
and the walls of plaster, like stone, a door at one end with a window
above and a window high up at the other end, and two windows at the
side ; these have thin wire shutters and glazed sashes on hinges ; the
roof is of slate, with about two feet thickness of thatch over it ; there
are also several little openings for the admission of air, about one inch
from the floor. A dresser, two feet wide, being two inches from the
wall, is on both sides, and above these are two shelves of nine inches
wide, also two inches from the wall, these are supported on iron brackets.
At the end, and opposite the door, is the churn, which is turned by a
wheel outside, with apparatus for a donkey or mule to work it, if re-
quired.

All the utensils are of sycamore wood and perfectly clean, never used
twice without washing in hot water with soda put in it, and made per-
fectly dry.

There are as many ways of making butter as there are counties in
Great Britain. I will now tell you how it is practised here. The cows
are milked at a regular hour, not later than five, the milk taken as soon
as possible into the dairy, and placed in the dishes about six quarts in
each ; is thus left for twenty-four hours ; then it is skimmed, and the
cream from each is placed in a deep bowl or pan, where it remains
until the next day, when it is churned. Friday's milk is made into

CLOUTED CREAM.

335

cheese ; when churned it is gathered well together from the milk and
laid in a clean bowl, with hard spring water in it, and worked to and
fro until it is brought to a firm consistence ; it is then laid out thin, and
then what is called here a scotcher is taken that is, a kind of five-
pronged fork of wood, only each prong is as sharp as a knife, and drawn
through every part of it ; then whatever salt is required is added, and
it is then formed into pats, or done any way they like. If intended as
corned or salt butter, they then add one pound of fine salt to every four-
teen pounds of butter ; in some places the coarsest grained salt is used ;
in others two pounds of salt, one pound of saltpetre, and one pound of
white sugar mixed together, one fourth of this for every fourteen pounds.
If intended for keeping, it is put into stone crocks until it is wanted.
The way in which they make the cheese here is as follows : all Friday's
milk is taken, that of the morning is kept until the afternoon, and mixed
with it ; then two spoonfuls of rennet to every twelve quarts of milk
are put to it and well mixed, it is then left all night. Very early the
next morning the curd is removed with a strainer and equally broken
into the cheese vat or mote until it is about one inch above the brim, a
cheese cloth or strainer having previously been put at the bottom of the
vat, and large enough to allow for part of it to be turned over the top
when the vat is filled ; when thus filled it is taken to the press, and left
for two hours with a clean cloth under it ; it is then turned over on the
cloth, and pressed again ; and the same process is continued three or four
hours out of the twenty-four. It is then removed and placed on the
shelf, and turned regularly every day for the first two months ; after that
occasionally.

I intend to try my hand at it shortly, and see what I can make of it.

I find that the butter which is made here and potted for winter use
is not intended to be sold as salt, but as fresh, and the dairy-maid has
just told me how it is done. For every quart of new milk from the
cow, she takes one pound of potted butter, which has been treated thus
the day previous : into two quarts of cold water two toblespoonfuls of
vinegar are mixed, and the potted butter well broken and kneaded in
it, and then taken out, and served the same in fresh water, in which it
is left until the next morning, and then mixed with the milk, put into
the churn and churned again, and then treated in the usual way as
butter ; by this plan there is a large quantity of sweet milk always in
the farm, as it is exceedingly good when strained.

The following is the way they make the clouted cream:

879. Clouted Cream. Strain the milk as soon as it comes
from the cow into wide pans, holding about six quarts each, so
as to be about three inches deep, and let it remain for twenty-
four hours ; then gently place the pan upon a hot plate or slow
charcoal fire, which must heat it very gently, for if it boils it is
spoilt ; as sopn as the cream forms a ring in the middle, remove
a little with the finger, and if there are a few bubbles rise in
the place where you do so, it is done, which will be in half to

336 CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS.

three quarters of an hour ; remove it from the fire, and let it
remain twenty-four hours ; then skim it, and throw a little
sugar on the top.

CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS.

Mrs. B. You are right, my dear, it is of great importanc
so than many of us imagine, as for myself I do not considt

Mrs. It. After all the receipts and information which you have given
me, there is one which you have not touched upon yet, which, perhaps,
is of more importance than all the rest, it is the management of ser-
vants.

ice, and more
do not consider that I am

a good manager, being perhaps of too forgiving a disposition ; but there
is one good quality which I possess which makes up for the want of
others, that is exactitude ; by enforcing this it causes all to know their
place, and perform their work.

Mrs. R. But what surprises me is to see everything so well done and
clean with so few servants ; you seem to have but two maid servants,
the cook, house-maid, and coachman.

Mrs. B. Yes, that is all, and I generally find that they are enough for
the work, unless I have a dinner party, and then of course, as you know,
I have extra men ; but I will tell you how I pass the day, and then you
will be able to judge.

"We are what are called early risers, that is, Mr. P. is obliged to leave
home every week day at twenty minutes past nine ; our breakfast is
on the table at half-past eight ; the breakfast parlor having previously
been got ready, as the servants rise at seven. We are, when we have
no visitors, our two selves, the three children^ and the governess. The
children, in summer time, have had a walk before breakfast, but before
leaving their room they uncover their beds, and if fine open the windows,
if a wet morning about two inches of the top sash is pulled down. The
servants get their breakfast at the same time as we do, as we require
hardly any or no waiting upon, everything being ready on the table.
In a former letter I told you what was our breakfast some years since
when in business, now we have placed on the table some brown bread,
rolls and dry toast ; the butter is in a glass butter-dish, and the eggs
are brought up when we have sat down to table. The urn is placed on
the table, as I make my own tea and coffee ; the cocoa is made down
stairs.

You will perhaps be surprised when I say that I make the coffee for
breakfast myself, but I have done so for some little time past, having
found that when made in the kitchen it never came up twice alike, but
now we always have it delicious.

I lately purchased a coffee-pot which enables me to do it in the very

CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS. 33*7

best manner, with no more trouble than I have in making the tea. I
mentioned it in my receipts for coffee, and said it was invented by a
Mr. S., which letter was inserted by mistake instead of C. which it
ought to be. It is called Carey's Hecla. It makes the very best coffee
at one short operation, and is so contrived as to produce it almost boil-
ing hot; in fact, never permitting the great mistake of boiling the coffee
itself at all.

Mr. B. generally leaves home in the brougham, which returns in time
for me ; in case I should be going out, he then goes in a cab or omnibus.
Whilst we are at breakfast. I generally consult Mr. B. what he would
like for dinner, and if he is likely to invite any friend to dine with him ;
the fishmonger has previously sent his list and prices of the day. I
then write with a pencil on a slip of paper the bill of fare for the
nursery dinner, luncheon, should any be required, and our dinner, which
I send to the cook. At ten o'clock I go down stairs into the kitchen
and larder, when the cook gives me her report, that is everything that
is required for the next twenty-four hours' consumption, including the
servants' dinner, which report is filed in the larder and made to tally
with the week's list, for I must tell you that the week's consumption
of all things that will not spoil is had in on the Saturday, on which
day the larder is properly scoured out, and everything put again into
its proper place, there being bins for all kinds of vegetables, &c. The
larder is generally kept locked, the cook and I only having keys, be-
cause it is in fact a larder, and not, as in many houses, full of emptiness ;
this occupies about half an hour, during which tune the chambermaids
have been attending to the bed-rooms and drawing-room, <fcc. If I go
out or not, I always get my toilet finished by twelve o'clock ; I thus
have one hour to write notes, or see tradesmen or my dressmaker, and
Monday mornings check and pay my tradesmen's accounts, and to dress.
If I stop at home, I amuse myself by reading, or going to see the children
in the nursery, or sometimes go again into the kitchen and assist the cook
on some new receipt or preparation, and often have several calls ; during
the course of the morning the two maids scour out alternately one or
two of- the rooms, according to size, except on Wednesdays, when one
of them is otherwise engaged.

Mr. B. arrives home at twenty minutes to five, and at half-past five
we dine : the cloth is laid, and everything prepared as if we had com-
pany ; it may be a little more trouble for the servants ; but when we
do have any friends they find it less trouble ; besides it is always un-
certain but what Mr. B. may bring somebody home with him, and it
prevents slovenly habits ; the two maids, with the exception of Wednes-
days, are always ready to attend on us. I never allow the coachman
to defile our carpets with his stable shoes ; all his duties in the house
are the first thing in the morning to clean the knives and forks for the
day, for enough are kept out for that purpose, clean the boots and
shoes, and those windows the maids cannot easily get at, and assist in
the garden if required. Many liave made the remark to me, that as
you have a mule servant why not have him wait at table. I reply that
the duties of the stable are incompatible with those of the table, and if
he does his duty properly he has enough to do. The servants dine at

338 CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS.

one, and have tea at quarter to five, by which time the cook has every-
thing ready, all but to take it from the fire, and the maids the dining-
room ready. The nursery dinner is at the same hour ; after dinner,
should we be alone, we have the children and the governess down ; if
we have company we do not see them ; they go to bed at a quarter to
eight, and we have tea and coffee at eight ; the governess comes and passes
the rest of the evening with us ; eleven is our usual hour of retiring,
before which Mr. B. likes his glass of negus, a biscuit, or a sandwich,
which is brought upon a tray.

Mrs. L. What you have described to me is all very well, yet I am
certain, that if I go and try to do the same to-morrow, I shall not suc-
ceed ; how is it that you have everything in its place, and I never hear
a word said to the servants ?

Mrs. J3. It is because they all know their duties, and if they should
in any way neglect them, I think of the maxim, bear and forbear, for
none of us are perfect, and I take an opportunity when I may be alone
with them to tell them quietly of their faults. Some mistresses will go
into the kitchen and be angry with them before the other servants ; the
consequence is, that as soon as her back is turned they all begin to laugh.
A ridiculous incident of this kind occurred the other evening at Mrs. G.'s.
We missed her out of the drawing-room just before tea, and it appeared
that her young boy Fred, followed her ; whilst we were at tea he was
very communicative, as children sometimes will be (F enfant terrible),
and said, " We have been having such fun in the kitchen." On inquiry
he said, " My mother has been down stairs scolding Jane, and I hid my-
self behind the door ; and when my mother had gone up, Betsy the
cook spoke and moved her hands just like mamma ; it made us all
laugh so, it was such fun." I need not tell you it was no fun for Mrs.
G-., who looked rather annoyed. We should ever remember, that we
have our feelings, and should also think that others have theirs ; and I
think it is as much the mistress's fault when anything goes wrong in the
house, as the servants'. I only lose my servants when they get married,
or from ill health, and the only thing that I find bad, is, that they quar-
rel amongst themselves, but should this occur thrice with the same two,
I dismiss them both. I am certain, that if you teach your servants to
take care of themselves, they are certain to take care of you. I con-
tinually hear Mrs. M. complaining of changing her servants, and that
seems to be her sole occupation. Poor tiling, she has no children, and
nothing to occupy her mind, and without occupation the mind becomes
diseased, and the least action throws it into fever. Mrs. N. complains
of the extravagance of her servants ; it is her own extravagance, or,
more properly speaking, her want of management which causes all ; but
this I really think, that if everybody were more cautious in receiving
and giving characters to servants other than what they are, we should
not hear the continual complaint we do, when often assembled in the
drawing-room after dinner, when, perhaps, some dear old lady com-
plains of the education given to young people of the present day, and
that, in time, there will be no such thing as servants. To some extent
I am of her opinion, and consider that the education given by all classes
to their children, is a great deal more ornamental than useful. I would

BILLS OF FARE. 339

rather see the child taught some of the accomplishments of housekeep-
ing, than that she should be considered as the mere ornament of the
drawing-room. I think it is the bounden duty of every mother, where
the income of the husband may be dependent on trade or profession, to
give her children that education which even the most adverse of cir-
cumstances may call upon them to assume. Look at the advertise-
ments wliich appear in the public press every day ! Young girls offer-
ing themselves as governesses, to be remunerated by their board;
whereas, if they had been educated with a knowledge of some useful
employment, they would have made good ladies' maids or housekeep-
ers, or useful wives to tradesmen.

BILLS OF FARE.

"When I was first married and commencing business, and our means
were limited, the following was our system of living :

Sunday's Dinner. Roast-Beef, Potatoes, Greens, and Yorkshire Pud-
ding.

Monday. Hashed Beef and Potatoes.

Tuesday. Broiled Beef and Bones, Vegetables, and Spotted Dick
Pudding.

Wednesday. Fish if cheap, Chops and Vegetables.

Thursday. Boiled Pork, Peas Pudding, and Greens.

Friday. Peas Soup, Remains of Pork.

Saturday. Stewed Steak with Suet Dumpling.

The Sunday's dinner I used to vary, one time Beef, another Mutton,
another Pork or Veal, and sometimes a Baked Sucking Pig ; our living
then, including a good Breakfast and Tea, cost us about 32s. per week.

In case we had a few friends, we used to make an addition by hav-
ing one Fish, Leg of Mutton, Roast Fowls, Pickled Pork, and Peas
Pudding, with a Mould Pudding and Fruit Tart, and a little dessert.

This was for the first two years ; our means and business then increas-
ing, and having the three young men to dine with us, we were of course
obliged to increase our expenditure and to alter our mode of living,
besides which I had accompanied Mr. B. to France, where my culinary
ideas received a great improvement.

The following is the plan we then adopted :

Sunday. Pot-au-Feu, Fish Haunch of Mutton or a Quarter of Lamb,
or other good joint Two Vegetables Pastry and a Fruit
Pudding A little Dessert.

Monday. Vermicelli Soup made from the Pot-au-Feu of the day pre-
vious The Bouilli of the Pot-au-Feu Remains of the Mut-
tonTwo Vegetables Fruit Tart

Tuesday. Fish Shoulder of Veal stuffed Roast Pigeons, or Leveret,
or Curry Two Vegetables Apples with Rice, and light
Pastry.

340 BILLS OF FARE.

Wednesday. Spring Soup Roast Fowls, Remains of Veal minced, and

Poached Eggs Two Vegetables^ Rowley Powley Pudding.
Thursday. Roast-Beef Remains of Fowl Two Vegetables Sweet

Omelette.
Friday. Fish Shoulder of Lamb Miroton of Beef Two Vegetables

Baked Pudding.
Saturday. Mutton Broth Boiled Neck Mutton Liver and Bacon

Two Vegetables Currant Pudding.

Our parties then, when we had them, never consisted of more than
ten,

"We had: Julienne Soup Fish a quarter of Lamb Vegetables,
Cutlets Vegetables, Bacon and Beans Boiled Turkey Pheasant
Jelly or Cream Pastry Lobster Salad Omelette or Souffle Des-
sert, <fec.

At present, though the number of our establishment is not greater,
yet the style and manner of our living have changed. We dine alone,
except when Mr. B. invites somebody to dine with him, which is most
generally the case ; our daily bill of fare consists of something like the
following :

One Soup or Fish, generally alternate One Remove, either Joint or
Poultry One Entree Two Vegetables Pudding or Tart A little
Dessert.

This may seem a great deal for two persons ; but when you remem-
ber that we almost invariably have one or two to dine with us, and the
remains are required for the breakfast, lunch, nursery and servants' din-
ners, you will perceive that the dinner is the principal expense of the
establishment, by which means you are enabled to display more liber-
ality to your guests, and li ve in greater comfort without waste. Our
parties at present, to many of which you have constantly been, and
therefore know, vary according to the season ; here are a few bills of
fare of them ; the following is one for two persons :

One Soup, say Puree of Artichokes One Fish, Cod Slices in Oyster
Sauce Remove with Smelts or White Bait.
Removes. Saddle of Mutton Turkey in Celery Sauce.
Two Entrees. Cutlets a la Proven9ale Sweetbreads larded in any

White Sauce.
Two Vegetables. Greens Kale Potatoes on the Sideboard.

SECOND COURSE.

Two Roasts. Partridges Wild Ducks.

Jelly of Fruit Cheesecakes Meringue a la Creme
Vegetable French Salad on the Sideboard.
Removes. Ice Pudding Beignet Souffle.
Dessert of eleven dishes.

The following is one for a birthday party, which generally consists of
twenty persons :

BILLS OF FARE. 341

FIRST COURSE.

Two Soups Two Fish.

Removes. Haunch of Mutton Broiled Capons a 1'Ecarlate.
Flancs. Fricandeau of Veal Currie of Fowl.

Entrees. Fillets of Beef, sauce Tomate Cutlets Soubise Oyster Pat-
ties, or Little Vol-au-Vent ; Croquettes of Veal or Fowl*

SECOND COURSE.

"Wild Ducks Guinea Fowl larded Charlotte Russe Punch
Jelly, Crusts of Fruit Flanc Meringue Apple with Rice
Scolloped Oysters Mayonnaise of Fowl Sea Kale or
Asparagus.
Removes. Turban of Conde Glacee Cheese Souffle a la Vanille.

Dessert of nineteen dishes.

The bills of fare for our small evening parties, say thirty persons,
are as foUows ; everything is cold, although I know that the fashion
has been progressing towards having hot removes.

Our table on those occasions is, as you know, in the form of a horse-
shoe, which, in my opinion, is the most sociable after that of a round
one, and upon the sociability of the supper depends in a great measure
the success of the party. In the centre, and at the head of the table, I
place a large Grouse-pie, the same as Wos. 249, 285, of which, by my
recommendation, everybody partakes ; I then on each of the wings
have Fowls, Lobster Salads, Mayonnaises of Fowl, Ham, Tongue, cut
in slices, and dished over parsley, ornamented with Aspic Jelly ; and
on the sideboard I have a fine piece of Sirloin of Beef, plain roasted, or
an Aitch-Bone of Beef, or FiUet of Veal. Should there be no game,
I have a Turkey or Fowls en Galantine, instead of the Grouse-pie, or
if game is plentiful, I have less poultry, and add roast Pheasants
mind, not fowls with black legs larded, and a pheasant's tail put to
them, but real ones, or Partridges or Grouse, or a fine Salad of Game.

With the Sweets I generally place about twelve four on each table,
that is 4 Jellies, 2 Creams, 2 Bavaroises, 4 Iced Cabinet Puddings, and
4 Raised Dishes of small Pastry, all of which are artistically disposed
upon the table.

The fruits are likewise placed on the table : they consist of simple
Compotes, 6 of various kinds and 6 of Dried Fruit, Biscuits, Wafers
and Cossacks, which last are getting much out of fashion, but are very
amusing.

The following is the Bill of Fare for Mr. B.'s Birthday Party, for
which he allows me 15, with wliich I find everything in the shape of
refreshments, with the exception of wine ; it is

One Raised Pie Two Mayonnaises of Fowl Two Lobster Salads
One Piece of Roast Beef Four Dishes of Fowl Two Dishes of
Pheasant Four Dishes of Tongue Four Dishes of Ham Four Jellies
with Fruit Two Creams with Noyeau Two Flancs with Apple

* These should be served on dishes with a napkin.

342 BILLS OF FARE.

Meringue Two Iced Cabinet Puddings Two Puddings a la Eloise
Six Various Pastry Eight Various Compotes Four Pieces Montces
in China with Bonbons, Cossacks, <fec. Four of Fruit, as Pears, Grapes,
<fe c . F our of Dried Fruit, &c. Four of Biscuits, <fcc.

This perhaps may appear extravagant, but we always have them,
some country friends stopping a few days with us, so that I manage to
make the best of everything, and make my week's account look very
well. We sometimes have as many as sixty on an evening.

Our Children's Parties are as follows, there are generally about fifty
present :

1 6 Dishes of Sandwiches. 4 Dishes of Lamb. 4 Dishes of Ham.
4 do. of Slices of Beef. 4 do. of Tongue. 6 do. of Fowls.
10 Dishes of Slices of Galantine of Veal. 1 Dish of Dressed Beef.
24 Dishes of Various Pastry, Custards, Jellies, Bonbons, <fec.

But I remember when in business, on those occasions we only used
to have a large quantity of Sandwiches and Patties, and used to amuse
the children by labelling the Dishes as Sandwiches of Peacock's
Tongues, Patties of Partridge's Eyes, &c., and also a large quantity of
plain Sweets ; and at that period Mr. B.'s birthday party was not so
extensive or recherche as at present. It consisted of something like
the following :

A Roast Turkey 2 Dishes of Fowls 1 Ham 2 Pigeon Pies 1
Piece of Boiled Beef 4 Lobsters 4 Salads 4 Jellies 4 Tarts 4
of Preserved Fruit, &c. 4 of Pastry; with about twelve of various
kinds of Fruit, &c.

You will have seen by the previous Bills of Fare that I have not at
all encroached upon the high-class cookery, they being selected from
the receipts I have given you ; in order that you may see the difference,
I inclose the Bill of Fare, of a dinner given by Bass, Esq., M. P., at
the Reform Club, the other day, and a copy of yesterday's Post, con-
taining one given in the country. You will find that the dishes men-
tioned in these Bills of Fare are not to be found in our receipts.

BILL OF FARE AT REFORM CLUB.

343

REFORM CLUB,

7 Juillet, 1849.

Diner pour 18 Personnes.

Deux Potages.
One Thick Turtle.
One Clear Ditto.

Deux Poissons.
Crimped Salmon, Turbot

en Matelote Normande. a la Richelieu.

Deux Releves. ^

L. - La Hanche de Venaison aux haricots verts. |

Les Poulardes en Diademe. g (

Six Entrees. 3 I

Vol-au-Vent de Foies gras a la Talleyrand.

Cotelettes d'Agneau demi Prove^ale.
Petits Canetons Canaris aux jeunes legumes glacees. g :
i Noix de Veau demi grasse a la puree de concombres. g j
\ Ortolans a la Vicomtesse.

Aiguillettes de petits Poussins a la Banquiere.

r ' Deux Rotis. g- 1

\ j Les Turkey Poults piques et bardes, ^3 1

[/ garnis de Cailles aux feuilles de vignes.

Les Jeunes Levrauts au jus de groseilles.

Huit Entremets.
Gelee a 1'eau de vie Flanc d'Abricots

de Dantzick. aux Liqueurs.

Aspic de Homard Quartiers d'Artichaux

a la Gelee. a la Venitienne.

Petits Pois Gateau Milanais

a 1'Anglaise. au Parmesan.

Pain de Peches Bombe Glacee

au Noyau. au Cafe Moka,

Jambon en surprise glace

a la Vanille.^
Pudding a la Mephistophiles.

A. SOYER.

FESTIVTriES AT GRENDON HALL.

A series of festivities are taking place at the seat of Sir George
Chctwynd, Bart., Grendon Hall, Ather stone, Warwickshire, to celebrate
the christening of Sir George's infant grandson. The christening took
place on Tuesday, at Grendon church, and in the evening a grand din-
ner was given in celebration of the event, under the able superinten-
dence of M. Alexis Soyer. As the dinner, which was provided for

344 FESTIVITIES AT GRENDON HALL.

twenty persons, was of a very recherche description, we subjoin the bill
of fare.

Deux Potages.
One of Clear Turtle.
Ditto a la Mvernaise.

Deux Poissons.

Crimped Severn Salmon Turbot

a la Regence. a la Cardinal

Deux Releves.

La Hanche de Venaison. Deux Poulardes a la Nelson.

Six Entrees.

. Les Ortolans a la Yicomtesse. ^

.2 Epigramme d'Agneau a la puree de concombres. 3 ?.
^ Grenadins de Veau aux petits pois. , |'

Of Filets de Caneton au jus d'orange. H- &
OT Cotelettes de Mouton a la Provenfale.

Turban de Volaille a la Perigord.

3-3 | g-

1 '5 Deux Rotis. I,
pjj g' Cailles bar dees aux feuilles de vignes. | JS'

6(0 Gelinottes des Ardennes.

Huit Entremets.

Turban de Meringues Pain de Fruit

aux Pistaches. aux Peches.

Galantine Croutades d'Artichaux

a la Voliere. a 1'Indienne.

Vegetable Marrow Miroton de Homard

a la BechameL a la Gelee.

Bavaroise Mousseuse Blanche Creme

a 1'Ananas. au Marasquin.

Ices. Deux Releves. St. James's

Pine Apple Hure de Sanglier en surprise glace Cake,

and a la Vanille. the first

Strawberry. Petits Biscuits souffles a la Creme. ever made.

After dinner M. Soyer had the honor of presenting the youthful heir
the proof copy of his new work on Cookery.

Morning Post, July 26, 1849.

CHO-CA. 345

LETTER XXI.

A NEW ALIMENT.

Bifrons Villa.

Here, dear Eloise, is an entirely new aliment, which has never yet
been introduced into this country. A semi-epicure of our acquaintance,
on returning from his visit to the National Guard of France, presented
me with a pound of it, which he had purchased in Paris ; but even
there, said he, it is almost in its infancy : you may fancy, if I were not
anxious of making an immediate trial of it ; but before I give you the
receipt how to use it, let me tell you I have found it most delicious.
Mr. B. has not yet tasted it, being for a week in the country, but I am
confident he will like it, especially for breakfast: but the puzzle is,
after my pound is used, how we are to get more ? Time, I suppose,
will teach us. It appears that we are indebted for it to a celebrated
French gentleman, M. le Docteur Lamolte, the inventor of the electric
light, who ingeniously, though oddly, named it Cho-ca, being a scientific
composition of chocolat and cafe, the alliance of which balancing ad-
mirably their excellence and virtue, and partly correcting their evils,
the first being rather irritable, the second heavy. But I think, if my
recollection serves me rightly, the idea of this compound must have
originated from that great French philosopher, M. de Voltaire, who
constantly, for his breakfast, partook of half cafe-au-lait and half
chocolate, which were served at the same time in separate vessels in
a boiling state, and poured from each slowly, about eighteen inches in
elevation from his cup, which, he said, made it extremely light and
digestible.

Years after, that still more extraordinary man, Napoleon Bonaparte,
became so partial to it, that he made a constant use of it, and it has
often been remarked by those who surrounded his person, that after the
great excitement and fatigue of a battle he has often partaken of two
or three cups, which seemed to restore all the strength and energy which
used to characterize that great man; on ordinary occasions one cup
would suffice him, but served more a la militaire, not being poured so
scientifically as did the Fernaise philosopher.

The approval of this mixed beverage by two such eminent characters
speaks volumes in favor of the Cho-ca, which ought to be immediately
introduced in England. It will also, no doubt, interest you to learn
that the first cup of coffee ever introduced in Europe was made and
presented to Louis XIV., at his magnificent palace of Versailles, by the
Ambassador from the Sublime Porte in the year 1664, when the noble
potentate, whose palate was as delicate as he was himself great, pro-
nounced it excellent ; and immediately perceived the immense advan-
tage it would be to introduce such a delicacy into France as food, wliich
a short time after took place, and was very successfully received there ;
also the chocolate, which is made from cacao, was first introduced to
the Cardinal Mazarin, who, having partook of the first cup like Louis

346 ON CARVING.

XIV. did of the coffee, and not a worse judge than his illustrious
master, remunerated with a handsome reward its inventor. It is much
to be regretted that such interesting and useful subjects have never yet
attracted the attention of our great Painters, instead of continually
tracing on innumerable yards of canvass the horrors of war, the de-
struction of a fleet by fire and water, the plague, the storm, the earth-
quake, or an eruption and destruction of a city by an avalanche or an
inundation ; if we cannot do without those painful historical reminis-
cences, why not add to those mournful collections a group of Louis
XIV. and his court at Versailles, where he, magnificently dressed, was
receiving from the hands of the said Pacha, not a cup of coffee, but a
branch of that plant covered with its precious berries ; and why not
also, as a pendant, Mazarin surrounded by his satellites, taking the
first cup of chocolate ; or the characteristic Voltaire pouring a cup of
Cho-ca to Frederic the Great in his tent on the field of Potsdam?
These subjects seem to have been entirely neglected in being immor-
talized on canvass, why ? because they have never done harm or evil
to any one ; but, on the contrary, have, are, and ever will prove to be,
among the greatest boons ever conferred upon humanity : it would also
engrave in our minds, as well as in our history, to what mortals we are
indebted for the importation and introduction of such important pro-
ductions, which daily constitute a part of our comforts, and have con-
ferred an everlasting benefit on mankind ; but, as usual, dear Eloise,
you will no doubt reproach me for having so much enthusiasm ; how-
ever, as on this subject you have been tolerably quiet lately, I not
only here inclose you the receipt, but also two of the thin round cakes
of this new aliment, the Cho-ca, which will produce two cups by making
it as follows :

880. Cho-ca. Scrape or grate it ; put a pint of milk in a
stewpan or chocolate-pot, and place it on the fire, with two
ounces of sugar, boil it, put the Cho-ca in it, and stir it well
for two minutes, and serve.

ON CARVING.

You reproach me for not having said a word about carving ; I have
not done so, as I think that is an accomplishment which our sex need
not study, but at the same time it is well to know a little of it. It is
rather difficult to give you a correct description without drawings, but
a few general remarks may be useful.

Cut Beef, Veal, Ham, Tongue, and Breasts of Poultry, with a sharp
knife, very thin ; Mutton, Lamb, and Pork rather thicker.

Never rise from your seat to carve ; never cut across the grain of the

ON CARVING. 347

meat, that is, not across the ribs of beef, as I have seen some persons
do, and Mr. B. tells me is often done at clubs, but it is only those do
so who do not know how to carve or appreciate the true flavor of the
meat.

Never place a fork through the back of a fowl, in order to carve the
leg and wings, but run the knife gently down each side the breast, de-
taching the leg and wing at the same time, which is greatly facilitated
by the use of the Tendon Separator one of which I purchased at
Bramah's, in Piccadilly ; it is the greatest boon ever conferred on a bad
'carver : the directions for using it are given with it. If it was more
generally used, there would be no more birds flying across the table in
the faces of guests ; no more turkeys deposited in a lady's or gentle-
man's lap ; no more splashing of gravy to spoil satin dresses ; but all
would be divided with the greatest facility, and in the most elegant
manner, and the poultry would look much better at table.

Never cut up the body of poultry at table, that should always be
left ; but game should be cut up, as many epicures prefer the back-
bone. For a sirloin of beef the under part of the loin should always
be cut when hot, and the upper part cut straight from the backbone
towards the outside of the ribs, by this plan you will not spoil the ap-
pearance of the joint.

Ribs of Beef should be carved in the same way, cutting thin and
slanting.

Round of Beef: cut a slice half an inch thick from the outside, and
then carve thin slices, with a little fat.

Aitch-bone, the same.

Fillet of Veal, the same.

Loin of Veal, carve as the Sirloin of Beef, serving some of the kidney,
and fat to each person.

Shoulder of Veal, begin from the knuckle, cut thin and slanting.

Saddle of Mutton will, if properly carved, serve a great many per-
sons ; instead of cutting a long slice the whole length, put your knife
under the meat and cut it away from the bone, then cut it like thin
chops, serving lean and fat together ; according to the usual plan, a
saddle of mutton will serve but few people, and the flavor of the meat
is not so good as when served this way.

Necks and Loins : the bones should be severed by a small meat-saw,
arid not a chopper, and the bone cut through when serving, and carve
slanting.

Haunches are usually carved by making a cut near the knuckle and
cutting a slice from that through the loin ; but by a plan I have adopted,
I find that the meat eats better, and the joint goes farther. I carve it
like the leg and saddle, that is, I cut a slice out of the leg part and a
slice from the loin, and serve together. This is more economical, but
would not do for venison.

Lamb. For Leg and Shoulders, proceed as for Mutton. The Ribs,
when well prepared and the bones properly separated, carve into cutlets,
and serve with a piece of the brisket.

Quarter of Lamb : the ribs should be sawed through, and the bones
disjointed previous to cooking. The shoulder should be then nicely

348 THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE.

removed, the seasoning added ; then divide the ribs and serve one part
of the brisket to each person.

Pork : proceed like the Mutton.

In carving a Ham, remove a thick slice, of about one inch, flat cut
slantways from the knuckle-end a Tongue, begin three inches from
the tip, and cut thin slanting slices.

LETTER No. XXII.

THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE.

MY DEAR ELOISE, Having now arrived at the conclusion of our
labors, during -which you have in many instances thought me rather
severe, and perhaps too exigeant in my remarks, especially about the
selection, preparation, and cooking of food in general, which even to
the last I must maintain, that for want of judgment and a little care,
the greatest part of the nutrition of our aliments is often destroyed,
which constitutes a considerable waste, being of no good to any one,
but an evil to everybody ; and when you consider the monstrous quan-
tity of food our fragile bodies consume in this sublunary sphere during
the course of our life, the truth of my observation will be more apparent,
and make you agree with me that in every instance people ought really
to devote more tune, care, and personal attention to their daily subsist-
ence, it being the most expensive department through life of human
luxury. I shall, for example, give you a slight and correct idea of it,
wliich I am confident you never before conceived. For this I shall
propose to take seventy years of the life of an epicure, beyond wliich
age many of that class of " bon vivants" arrive, and even above eighty,
still in the full enjoyment of degustation, <fcc., (for example, Talleyrand,
Cambaceres, Lord Sefton, cfec. ;) if the first of the said epicures when
entering on the tenth spring of his extraordinary career, had been placed
on an eminence, say, the top of Primrose hill, and had had exhibited
before his infantine eyes the enormous quantity of food his then insig-
nificant person would destroy before he attained his seventy-first year,
first, he would believe it must be a delusion; then, secondly, he
would inquire, where the money could come from to purchase so much
luxurious extravagance ? But here I shall leave the pecuniary expenses
on one side, which a man of wealth can easily surmount when required.
So now, dearest, for the extraordinary fact : imagine on the top of the
above-mentioned hill a rushlight of a boy just entering his tenth year,
surrounded with the recherche provision and delicacies claimed by his
rank and wealth, taking merely the medium consumption of his daily
meals. By closely calculating he would be surrounded and gazed at
by the following number of quadrupeds, birds, fishes, &c. : By no less
than 30 oxen, 200 sheep, 100 calves, 200 lambs, 50 pigs ; in poultry,
1200 fowls, 300 turkeys, 150 geese, 400 ducklings, 263 pigeons ; 1400

THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE. 349

partridges, pheasants, and grouse ; 600 woodcocks and snipes ; 600 wild
ducks, widgeon, and teal ; 450 plovers, ruffes, and reeves ; 800 quails,
ortolans, and dotterels, and a few guillemots and other foreign birds ;
also 500 hares and rabbits, 40 deer, 120 Guinea fowl, 10 peacocks, and
360 wild fowl In the way of fish, 120 turbot, 140 salmon, 120 cod,
260 trout, 400 mackerel, 300 whitings, 800 soles and slips, 400 floun-
ders, 400 red mullet, 200 eels, 150 haddocks, 400 herrings, 5000 smelts,
and some hundred thousand of those delicious silvery whitebait, besides
a few hundred species of fresh- water fishes. In shell-fish, 20 turtle,
30,000 oysters, 1500 lobsters or crabs, 300,000 prawns, shrimps, sardines
and anchovies. In the way of fruit, about 500 Ibs. of grapes, 360 Ibs.
of pine-apples, 600 peaches, 1400 apricots, 240 melons, and some hun-
dred thousand plums, greengages, apples, pears, and some millions of
cherries, strawberries, raspberries, currants, mulberries, and an abund-
ance of other small fruit, viz., walnuts, chestnuts, dry figs and plums. In
vegetables of all kinds, 5475 pounds weight, and about 2434| pounds
of butter, 684 pounds of cheese, 21,000 eggs, 800 do. plovers'. Of
bread, 4 tons, half a ton of salt and pepper, near 2% tons of sugar ;
and, if he had happened to be a covetous boy, he could have formed a
fortification or moat round the said hill with the liquids he would have
to partake of to facilitate the digestion of the above-named provisions,
which would amount to no less than 11,673| gallons, which may be
taken as below : 49 hogsheads of wine, 1368| gallons of beer, 584 gal-
lons of spirits, 342 liqueur, 2394| gallons of coffee, cocoa, tea, <fec., and
304 gallons of milk, 2736 gallons of water, all of which would actually
protect him and his anticipated property from any young tliief or fellow
schoolboy, like Alexandre Dumas had protected Dante and his immense
treasure from the pirates in his island of Monte Christo. You now,
dearest, fancy that I am exaggerating in every way ; but to convince
you, and to prevent your puzzling your brain to no purpose, I also en-
close you a medium scale of the regular meals of the day, from which
I have taken my basis, and in sixty years it amounts to no less than 33|
tons weight of meat, farinaceous food and vegetables, &c. ; out of which
I have named in detail the probable delicacies that would be selected
by an epicure through life. But observe that I did not count the first
ten years of his life, at the beginning of which he lived upon pap,
bread and milk, &c., also a little meat, the expense of which I add to
the age from then to twenty, as no one can really be called an epicure
before that age ; it will thus make the expenses more equal as regards
the calculation. The following is the list of what I consider his daily
meals :

Breakfast. Three quarters of a pint of coffee, four ounces of bread,
one ounce of butter, two eggs, or four ounces of meat, or four ounces of
fish.

Lunch. Two ounces of bread, two ounces of meat, or poultry, or
game, two ounces of vegetables, and half a pint of beer or a glass of
wine.

Dinner. Half a pint of soup, a quarter of a pound of fish, half a
pound of meat, a quarter of a pound of poultry, a quarter of a pound
of savory dishes or game, two ounces of vegetables, two ounces of

350 THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE.

bread, two ounces of pastry or roasts, half an ounce of cheese, a quar-
ter of a pound of fruit, one pint of wine, one glass of liqueur, one cup
of coffee or tea ; at night one glass of spirits and water.

Now that I have given you these important details, perhaps you will
give me some little credit for my exaction and severity respecting the
attention which ought to be daily paid to the indispensable and useful
art of cookery by our middle classes. I shall also observe to you, that
those masses of provisions above described in the expose of sixty
years, have been selected, dressed, and served, by scientific hands,
every real epicure choosing through life the best cook, and consequently
the best of provisions, which, had they have fallen into the hands of
inexperienced persons, would very likely have wasted one third, thereby
increasing the expenses, and never giving any real satisfaction to the
consumer ; therefore let us act in a small way as becomes us, as it is
for the wealthy according to their incomes ; let every housekeeper de-
vote more time to the study of domestic and practical economy; in
many instances it will increase their incomes as well as their daily
comforts, as I remarked to you that the pleasures of the table being
not only the most expensive part of human luxury, but also the soul
of sociability, require more attention bestowed upon it than is done at
the present day.

Fare you well,

HORTENSE.

INDEX.

ACID . """'

PAGE

Barley Water

PAGE
41

A-la-mode Beef .

164, 165

Batter for Fritters .

305

Albumen .

158

Beans, Broad . .

259

Almond Water

French

259

Almond Cake, Iced

304

a la Maitre d'Hdtel

259

Ice, White

297

Haricot

260

Aitch-Bone of Beef

122

Young .

260

Aliment, a New .

345

a la Bretonne

261

284

118

Charlotte

282

A-la-mode

64, 165

Compote

307, 308

Aitch-Bone of

122

Dumplings

294

Brisket of

122

Flanc . .
Fritters

275
281

Croquettes of .
Choice of . '^

167
118

Jelly .

320

Essence of

saute in Butter

285

Family Salad of

167

Pie

296

Fillets of, Broiled .

165

Pudding

294

Saut6 . ;

166

Vol-au-Vent .

273

to hang

118

Apples, Baked

Hashed

158

and Fig Beverage

Minced

166

and Rice Pudding

Miroton

59,160

with Rice

283

Palates . . "

160

with Butter .

284

a la Bretonne .

161

Apricot Compote .
Fritters

308,

309, 310

282

a la Poulette .
a la Maitre d'H&tel

161
161

Ice Cream

317

Pickle for, a la Garrick

242

Marmalade

318

Pressed

242

Nougat

278

remains of

158

Pudding

294

Ribs of, Braised

119

Arrow-root > ' . '"

Larded

241

Jelly
Water .

40
44

Roasted
Round of, Salted

119
121

Broth

cold .

121

Artichokes. . ,
Jerusalem

259
81,259

Rump Steak, Stewed
Half-round of, silver side

164
121

Asparagus , ~ .
with Eggs .
Aspic of Meat .

253
217
240

Salt, remains of .
Salt, Bubble and Squeak
Sirloin of
Stewed Rump of

169
163
119
120

Spiced .

242

Bacon, to choose .

18,140

Tea ...

to boil

141

Beignet Souffle

281

to broil

Beet-root .

258

Baking, on .
Barley Lemonade .

60
42

Beurre Noir, or Black Butter
Beverage, Refreshing

98
43,44

Barley Orangeade .

Bills of Fare

339

352

INDEX.

Biscuit Souffle
Cocoa-Nut

PAGE
301

325

Calf's Brains, to prepare
Ears, stewed

PAGE

128
174

Cream

326

Feet .

53,

214, 240

Moss .

325

Feet Jelly

286

Rout .

325

Head .

28, 130

Blackberry Pudding

294

Curry

213

Black-Pudding, broiled

Hollandaise

130

Blancmange

290

with Mushrooms

130

Bloaters

with Tomatoa

130

Boiling, on

Heart, roasted

172

Boudins of Fowl .

197

Liver, English fashio

172

Turkey

197

fried .

175

Bottoms and Tops, to ma
Braising, on

11
60

sauted .
stewed .

172
175

Braise-Roast

147

Sweetbreads .

173

Boil .

148

au Grati

174

Bread, to make

another

r ay

173

and Milk

Caper Sauce

113

and Apple
Breakfast Table .

284
7,26

Capillaire .
Capon, boiled

330
151

Brocoli

257

and Cresses .

227

Broiling .

a 1'Estragon .

157

Broth, Arrow-root .

Pie .

236

Chicken

37,53

Roast .

150

Eel .

Roast braised

147

Mutton

Stewed

151

Rice .
French Herb .

Capilotade of Poultry
Carp, baked

193
106

Seasoned

Sauce Matelote

106

Semoulina

Carrot Pudding .

292

Turkey

147

with Poulards

152

Various

Soup .

Vermicelli

White

Veal .

Sauce .

Brown Stock

Carving

346

Browning .

Cauliflower

257

Brioche Rolls, to make

Gratin, with Cheese

257

Brussels Sprouts .

259

Puree, Soup .

71,89

Bubble and Squeak

163

Celery

256

Buns, to make

Cheesecakes

229

Butter

334

Lemon .

280

Anchovy

117

Maids of Honor

280

Burnt . , , . 7

217

Puff .

303

Lobster

117

Cheese Souffle

304

Melted

112

Raminole .

303

Maitre d'Hdtel
Ravigote

117
117

Charlotte, Apple .
Russe .

282
289

Cheese, to make .

384

Cacao
Cake, Almond

25
325

Charlotte, Strawberry
Chartreuse of Fruit

289
290

Cinnamon

326

Cherry Draught .

Ginger
Pound

326
324

Compote
Cherry Marmalade

309, 311
319

Queen's

324

Omelette

281

Rout .

325

Vol-au-Vent .

271

Savoy, in Moulds

322

Pudding .

295

Cake, Savoy, or Ladies' I
Shrewsbury .

ingers

323
326

Chestnut Pudding .
Chicken, Boiled .

296
53, 193

Sponge

323

Braised

192

small

324

Broth .

37,53

St. James's

327

Curry . .

210

Royal Iceing for
Calf's Brains, a la Maitre

d'Hdte

312
1 175

Italian way
Pie .

153
203

fried . . 175

Roast Braised .

192

INDEX.

353

PAGE

Chicken, Roast, for Invalids . 53

PAGE

Currant Jelly, with Omelette . 281

Spring .

228

Red, White & Black for Puddings 294

Stewed

150

and Raspberry Pie . . 295

Chicoree Sauce

Compote '. 311

Choice of Pork

. 139

Salad

322

Choca

345, 346

Sweetmeat of .

320

Chocolate .

Curry, Beef

212

Italian

Calf's Head, Feet, an

Tail 213, 214

Iceing for Cakes

312

Chicken

210

Ice Cream ' ', , ?

316

with Paste

210

Choice of Meat

118

Crab .

215

Chopping of Herbs

267

Fillets of Haddock

216

Chump of Veal
Clear Soup

125, 127
79

Sole
Whiting

216
216

Clarify Stock, to .

Game .

221

Cock-a-leekie Soup
Cocoa

83
. 25,26

Lamb .
Lamb's Head .

212, 213
. 214

Nut Biscuits .

325

Lobster

214

Cod, Boiled

Mutton

212

with Oysters .

Ox Tail

214

Coffee, on .

Oyster

215

to choose

Pork

212

where first used in L

ndon . 21

Prawn

215

to make

Rabbit

211

French

Salmon

215

White .

Skate

. 216

made with a filter

Sauce

another way .
Cold Ham .

24
141, 240

Tripe
Turbot

. 214
. 216

Conger Eel, Stewed
Confectioner's Paste

110

270

Veal
Breast of .

211

212

Conversation on Househo

d Affairs 336

Custard Pudding .

. 47, 364

Compote of Pigeons
of Fruits

200
310

Damson Pie '

. 295

Cooling Drink
Lemonade

42
45

Pudding
Dartoise Fourree .

. 294

. 273

Cow Heels

. 169

Demi-Plum Pudding

. 292

Crab Curry % .

215

Dessert

305

Cranberry Pie

296

Dewberry and Raspberry

Pie . 295

Cresses with Pullet

227

Diablotins .

304

Cream, Bohemian Jelly

288

Dinner, Nursery .

Clouted

335

Table . N

327

Coffee Souffle .

. 302

D'Office, Paste

270

Coffee Ice

316

Dried Haddock .

Pastry Saute .

1 . . 286

Mackerel

Omelette Souffle

301

Sprats .

Rice

299

Draught, Cherry .

Sauce .

. 116

Drink, Cooling

with Spinach .

. . 260

New .

Crecy Soup

Strengthening .

Croquettes of Fowl
Macaroni

195

285

Dry Toast .
Ducks, on .

9
156

Rice .

285

a 1'Aubergiste

157

Crumpets, to make

to choose

156

to toast . "

Roasted

156

to serve .

Stewed with Peas

156, 198

Crusts of Fruit

278

Turnips

157, 199

Madeira .

279

Varieties of .

156

Cucumbers

258

Ducklings . - .

228

Brown Sauce .

Pie

236

White Sauce .

. 71,73

Stewed with Peas

. 156

with Poulards .

. 152

Turnips

157

Curacao Jelly

287

Remains of .

157

Currant Jelly

320

Duck, Wild

230

354

INDEX.

PAGE

Duck, Hashed

225

Fish Pike .

105

with Orange Sauce

225

Red Mullet, or Sur Mullet

. 99

Salmon

Ears, Calf's, Stewed

174

Sauces .

111

Ecarlate of Fowl .

153

Salad .

247

Eels, on

109

Salt .

to kill

109

Skate .

104

Broth

Smelts .

101

Fried

109

Soles .

103

Pie

205

Sturgeon

96,97

Spitchcocked .

110

Tench .

108

Skinned

109

Trout .

107

Stewed

109

Turbot .

102

a la Tartare .

110

White Bait .

101

Effects of Fish

Whiting

Eggs au Beurre

Fish, Shell Escalops

250

Baked .

216

Oysters

250

with Asparagus

217

Razor or Solen

250

with burnt Butter

217

Prawns

250

Hard .

Shrimps

251

in Cases
with Cheese .

218

Fisherman's Soup .
Fillet of Beef, broiled

86
165

to choose

Veal, cold

241

with Green Peas

217

roast

125

with Ham

Flancs

274

plain Boiled .
Poached

13
14

Flanc of Apple
Fruit .

275

274

Mashed

217

Meringue

274

Meagre

217

what they are .

158

with Mushrooms

217

Flounders, on

104

Sauce .

112

Water Souchet

104

Snow .

217

Fried .

104

with Sprue Grass
sur Ie plat

217
14

Food, light, for invalids
Forcemeat, on

33
251

and Toast

to make

251

a la Tripe

217

of Fish .

252

Endive Sauce or Puree

Panada for

252

Entrees, or Made Dishes

158

of Veal

253

of Game .

220

of Whitings .

252

Epicure, the Septuagenar
Escalops
Escaloped Oysters
Eschalot Sauce

348
250
250
66

Fondu, Parmesan .
Neapolitan
simple .
Stilton Cheese

302
302
302
303

Essence of Beef .

Fourree, Dartoise .

278

Gateau

277

Fennel Sauce

112

Rissole

276

Feet, Lamb's

52, 185

Fowls, on .

149

Calfs .

169
53

Blanquettes of
Boiled .

194
194

Fish, on

Braised

194

French-Anglais way o
for Breakfast .

fstewi

og no

Broiled
Boudins of

194, 195
197

Carp .
Cod .

106
95

Croquettes of .
Fricassee of .

195
195

Conger Eel

110

Fried .

193

Eels .

109

Hashed, Indian

193

Effects of

Italian way

153

Forcemeat of .

252

a 1'Ecarlate .

153

Flounders

104

a la Marengo .

196

Haddock

Minced

194

Herrings

100

Pie

235

Mackerel

Pillau .

209

Maids .

104

Pulled, for invalids

Perch .

108

Roast braised .

148

INDEX.

355

PAGE

Fowls, Saute 194, 196, 197, 199

Game Whim . . <*

231

Salad . 249

Whewer

. 231

to truss

150

Widgeons

. 231

Fowl, Guinea

229

Great Headed

. 231

Pea

229

Woodcock .

231

French Beans

259

Garlic Sauce

Coffee .

Garniture for Omelettes .

219

Herb Broth

Garum Sauce . - .

111

Panada

41, 252

Sociorum ;

111

Remedy for Colds

Gateau Fourre

277

Plums Compote

309

Galantine, to cook

238

Fritadella

190

Jelly .

287

Fritters, Apple
Apricot

282
282

Turkey .
Veal .

. 238
241

Orange

282

how got

117

Peach

282

Gibelote of Rabbit

. 200

Souffle

282

Giblets

. 85, 155

Fruit* Chartreuse of

298

Crusts .

278

Gold Jelly .

287

Flanc of

274

Goose

153

Rissolettes

273

to choose

153

Puddings

294

Giblets.

155

Pies .

296

Hashed

199

Salads of

21, 322

Pie

236

Vol-au-Vent .

271

Preserved

155

Wall .

295

Stewed

155

Fricandeau of Veal

170

Stuffing

154

to carve

171

Roasted

154, 155

to dress

171

Trussed

154

Various ways .
Fritadella .

171

190

Gooseberry, Green, Compote
Pie

311

295

Frying, on .

Pudding

294

Fry, Lamb's

138

Vol-au-Vent . * j

272

Fumet de Gibier Sauce

233

with Rhubarb . v

297

Gosling, Roast

. 228

Game, choice of .
to keep

229

Grass, Sprue
Gratin of Lobster .

. 255

245

Made-dishes of

220

Gravy, Brown

Salad of

248

Spinach and .

260

Soup .

Turkey .

145

Tureen of

237

Greengage Compote

308, 311

Entrees of

220

Greengage Pudding

. 294

Dunbird

231

Groats, Scotch, Gruel

Garganey

231

Grouse Pie .

204, 236

Gorcock . s

230

Scotch Plan of Cooking

222

Grouse .

230

Gruel

Red

230

Sago .

White .

230

Guinea Fowls, Roasted .

. 229

Half Birds

231

Lark .

232

Haddocks, Baked .

Moorcock, or Gorcoc!

230

Dried .

Moor-game .
Partridge

230
230

Fillets of
Ham, Cold .

216
141, 240

Red-legged

230

and Eggs

Pea Fowl

229

Hot

141

Pheasant

229

Hamburgh Beef .

122

Hybrid

229

Hard Eggs .

Plovers . 'if3

231

Hare, Jugged

226, 227

Pochard . ,

231

Roasted . . .

233

Ptarmigan

230

Haricot Beans .

260

Quails .

232

Hartshorn Jelly. .

287

Red Heads .

231

Haunch of Mutton

. 130

Snipes .

232

Venison

. 142

Teal .

231

Head, Calf's

128, 130

356

INDEX.

PAGE

Head, Calf's, Hollandaise .

130

Jelly, Punch

287

with Mushrooms

130

Quince

287, 320

Tomatos

130

Rum .

237

Curry

213

Silver .

287

Lamb's

138

Whipped

288

Pig's .
Pig's, Sauce for
Pig's, to braise
Heart, Calf's, Roasted
Lamb's

243
243
243
172
185

of Meat, to clarify
Jesuits, Turkeys, so calle
Julienne Soup

Kidneys, Bread-crumbed

239
144
81

Sheep's

184

Maitre d'H6tel

Herbs with Omelette

219

on Toast

Minced, Sauce

. 168

Italian Sauce .

Omelette of .

220

Chopping
Herrings, Boiled .
Broiled

267
100
100

Pudding
Sauted .
Sheep's

168, 207
18
.17, 176

Toast .

Kidney Beans

. 259

Hotch Potch

Knuckle of Veal .

127, 240

Ice, Almond, White

297

Lait de Poule

Apricot

317

Sweet

Chocolate

316

Lamb

136

Coffee .

316

Breast of, Broiled

138

Lemon

316

Curried

212

Orange

317

Chop

52, 166, 186

Pine Apple

316

Curry

212

Strawberry

317

Cutlets

185

Vanilla

315

to cut up

136

Iced Almond Cake

304

Feet

52, J85

Imperial

Fry

. 138

Indian Hash

193

Head

138, 139, 213

Invalids, Comforts for

Heart

185

Fish for

Leg of

137

Food .

Loin of

136

Meat .

33,51

Neck of

136

Partridges

Pie

201, 203

Pigeons

Papillote

. 186

Poultry

Pudding

206

Puddings

Quarter of

136

Irish Stew . .

178

Quality of

136

Soup .

Remains of .

184

Isinglass Jelly
Italian Drops

287
327

Ribs of
Saddle of, Russian fa

136
lion . 137

Sauted . . .

186

Jam, Apricot
Quince

318

Shoulder of .
Larks a la Minute .

137

226

Raspberry .

319

Pie

226

Strawberry

319

Laver

263

Jardiniere, Neck of Lamb

136

Lentils

. 262

Sauce . .

137

Soup .

Jelly, Apple

320

Letters i, 5 ; n, 6 ; in, 26

iv, 27; v, 28;

Arrow-root

vi, 55 ; vii, 56 ; vm, 57

ix, 58 ;x, 58;

Bohemian Cream
Calf's Foot .

288
286

xi, 58; XH, 120; xm
xv, 244 ; xvi, 305 ; x

178 ; xiv, 181 ;
i, 327 ; xvin,

Curacao
Currant

287
320

332; xix, 334; xx, 345

Leveret

xxi, 348.
. 233

Gelatine

287

Lemonade, Barley

Gold .

287

Cooling

45, 332

Hartshorn

287

Lemon Cheesecakes

280

Isinglass

287

Jelly .

. 288

Marasquino .

287

Souffle .

299, 300

Lemon

288

Leg of Pork

139, 142

Orange

288

Lamb

. 137

INDEX.

357

Liaison of Eggs .

PAGE

Milk and Rice

PAGE

. 38, 39

Liver, Calf's

. , 172, 175

Semoulina

. 39

Lobster Butter .

116

Tapioca

Curry .

214

Vermicelli .

a la Creme .

114

Minced Beef

166

Gratin of

245

Fowl .

194

Miroton of

245

Meat .

295

Omelette

220

Pie

. 295

Plain .

246

Pudding .

. 292

Salad .

246

Pheasant

. 222

Sauce .

13, 114

Mint Sauce

Loin of Mutton

134

Minute, Snipes a la

224

Pork .

140

Miroton of Beef .

159, 160

Veal .

125

Lobster

. 245

Braised .

127

Lobster Salad

246

Luncheon .

Moorgame Pie

236

Mould Pudding .

291

Mackerel a la Maitre d'H

tel

Mock Turtle, Brown

au Beurre Noir

White

Boiled .

Muffins, to make .

Dried .

toast

Pickled

107

Mulberry Pie

295

Stewed
Soft Roe Sauce

98
111

Mulligatawny Soup
Muria Sauce

85
111

Macaroons . .
Macaroni .

326
265

Mullet, or Sur Mullet, to
Papillote

ook . 99

Croquettes

285

Saut6 .

! 100

a 1'Estoufade .

266

Mussel Sauce

115

au Gratin

266

Mushrooms, Blanched

a 1'Italienne .

266

with Eggs .

. 220

a la Napolitaine

266

Omelette of .

220

Pudding

Sauce .

66, 68, 73, 261

Soup .

Mutton, on

130

to blanch

265

Boiled

132

Macedoine Omelette

281

Broth

33, 34, 82

Madeira Crusts

279

Chop

51, 178

Made Dishes of Beef

158

Soyer's

180, 182

Game

220

Saute . . ^

. 180

Remains of \

eal

175

Breast of, Curry

212

Maitre d'Hotel Sauce

Curry .

212

Maids of Honor

280

Cutlet, various ways

182, 183, 184

Marasquino Jelly .
Marinade of Salmon

287
248

Plain .
French Ragout of

51
177

Marrow, Vegetable
Pudding
Matelote

257
294
116

Haunch of
Leg of, Roasted
Boiled

130
132
. 132

Marmalade with Pancake

282

a la Bretonne

. 133

of Apple

318

Braised

134

of Apricot

318

Stewed

134

of Cherries .

319

Loin of, Roasted

134

of Pine Apple.
Mashed Eggs

322

217

Loin of, a la Bretonn
Neck of, Roasted

133
134

Meagre Eggs

217

Boiled

. 135

Soup .
Puree .

88, 91
91

Pie
Pillau .

202
. 210

Meat, Aspic of

240

Pudding

206

for Breakfast .

Saddle of

131

for Invalids

a la Polonaise . 131

Remains of

175

Shoulder of, Roasted . 133

Melted Butter

112

Boiled . . 133

Mephistopheleian Sauce
Meringues a la Cuillerfce
Flanc . ' : '-

277
276

Baked, with Apples 133
Provincial . 134
Stuffed and Baked 133

Milk and Bread .

358

INDEX.

PAGE

Neapolitan Fondue

302

Oysters

250

Neck of Lamb

136

Escaloped

250

Pork

140

Curry .

215

Veal

126

Omelette

219

Venison

143

Soup .

Nectarine Pudding

297

Sauce .

115

New Drink .

Stewed

251

Nursery Dinner

Panada, French .

41, 252

Omelettes .

15, 219

Pancake, with Marmalade

282

Asparagus

219

Pap ....

i* *"* 1 s uo
Bacon .

220

Parmesan Fondue .

302

Cherry .

281

Parsnips, with Salt Fish .

Currant Jelly

281

Partridge, Roasted

230

Garniture for

219

Hashed

223

Ham .

219

for Invalids .

Herb .

219

Pie .

204, 236

Kidney

220

Salmi .

223

Lobster

220

Sauted with Mushrooms

223

Mushroom
Macedoine of

220
281

Stewed with Cabbage
Palates of Beef

222
160

Oyster .

219

a la Bretonne .

161

Parmesan

219

a la Maitre d'H6tel .

161

Peach .

281

a la Poulette .

161

Peas .
Preserved Apr

cot

219

281

Papillote Lamb Chops
Sauce .

186

Raspberry Jaa

281

Paste, Beef Suet .

269

Rum .

28J

different sorts of

268

Saute Souffle

301

D'Office, or Confectioners'

270

Sauted in Cre

301

Puff .

268

Strawberry

281

Half

269

Sweet .

281

Short, or Pate a foncer

269

Onion, Button, Sau

for Fruit Tarts

269

Puree .

Pastry Cream Saute

286

Soup .

Turban of

304

Stuffed .

Peach Compote

307

Orangeade .

Fritters

282

Orange Compote
Fritters

09, 310

282

Omelette
Salad .

281
321

Salad .

321

Vol-au-Vent .

271

Vol-au-Vent

272

Pea -Fowl .

229

Jelly .

288

Pear Compote

307

Ice, Souffle

298

with Rice

284

Sauce .

Pie

296

Osmazome .
Oxen, to judge
how cut

37, 118
118
118

Peas and Sprue-grass Sauce
and Bacon
French way .

72
74
254

Ox-beef, to hang
Brains .

118
164

Green .
with Eggs

254

217

Cheek .

Soup

89, 90

Feet .

169

Stewed .

Heart .

162

Winter

Kidneys
Remains

168
169

Pease Pudding
Perch, Sauted" in Butter .

209
108

Tail Curry

214

Hampton Court fashion

108

au Gratin

162

Pheasant, Broiled .

220

a la Jardin

ere

161

Hashed

221

Sauce piq

ante

162

Joe Miller's .

221

Soup

Minced

222

Tongue, cold

240

Pie, raised

236

hot

240

Roasted

229

fresh

123

Salmi .

222

pickled
Remains of

123
23, 169

Stewed with Cabbage
Pickle a la Garrick

221
242

INDEX.

359

PAGE PAGE

Pickled Fish

248

Plum Beverage . 45

Mackerel

107

Compote .

309

Pork .

142

Stewed . *

Salmon

107

Vol-au-Vent .

273

Trout .

107

Poached Eggs

Pie, Capon .
Chicken

236
203

Pork, to cut up
Best .

139
139

Duckling

236

to choose

139

Eel .

205

Neck of
Salted

140
142

Goose .

. 236

Pickled*

142

Grouse

204, 236

Chine of

140

Hare .

. 236

Cutlets .

187, 183

Lamb .

201, 203

Hashed

189

Lark .

226

Hand of

142

in Mould

234

Leg of, Roasted

139

Mutton

202

Boiled

142

Moorfowl

236

Loin of, a la Piemont

ise

140

Partridge
Pigeon .

204, 236
204, 236

Normandy fashio
Pudding

140
207

Pheasant

236

Sparerib of .

140

Poulard

236

Porridge . .

Rabbit .

203

Potatoes .

263

Rump-steak .

202

Varieties of .

263

Sea .

205

Baked .

264

Veal and Ham

202, 234

Boiled .

263

Fruit .

296

Fried .

264

Apple .

296

Mashed .

267

Cherry .

295

Irish way of Boiling

265

Cranberry

295

a la Lyonnaise

265

Currant

295

a la Maitre d'Hdtel

264

Damson

295

Mashed

265

Dewberry and Raspberry
Gooseberry
Minced Meat .

. 295
295
. 295

Sandwiches .
Poultry, on . .
described

163
143
143

Mulberry . .

295

for Invalids .

Pear .

296

to draw

144

Plum .

296

to kill .

143

Quince

296

to pluck

144

Raspberry

. 296

en Capillotade

193

Rhubarb

. 296

Poulards, Braised .

150

Whortleberry .

. 296

Boiled .

151

Pies, simple plan of making

236

with Carrots .

152

Various .

201

with Cucumbers

152

Pigeons en Compote
for Invalids

200
54

Poulard Pie
with duenelles

236
151

Pie

204, 236

with Rice

151

Stewed with Peas .

201

Roasted

150

Pig, Sacking . ,;,

. 141

Stewed

151

Hind-quarter of
Pig's Cheek .

141
142

Poults, Turkey
Prawn Curry

227
215

Feet a la Ste. Menehould

189

Preserved Goose .

155

Stuffed .

188

Prussian Cutlets .

191

Kidneys

189

Pudding, Meat

205

Head, like Wild Boar's

. 243

Black .

to braise

243

Beefsteak

205

Pike, to cook

105

Kidney

207

Sauce Matelote

. 106

Ox-Kidney .

207

Pillau, Fowl

209

Lamb .

206

Mutton .

210

Mutton

206

Pine- Apple . . .

322

Pease

209

Piquante Sauce
Plovers Sauted with Truffles

. 66, 186
224

Pork
Rabbit

207
208

Pie

. 236

Suet

2oa

360

INDEX.

PAGE

Pudding, Toad-in-Hole .
Veal .

208
207

Rabbit Pie .
Pudding

203

208

Yorkshire

208

Raised Pies

235, 236

for Invalids and Children

Ramifolle .

190

Apple and Rice
Bread .

Raminole, Cheese .
Raspberry Jam

303
319

Bread and Butter

Omelette

281

Small

Pie

296

Cabinet

Pudding

295

Custard

Vinegar

Macaroni

Ratafias

327

Rice .

Ravigote Sauce

. 67, 117

Tapioca
Vermicelli .

Refreshing Beverage
Removes .

43
117, 296

in Moulds

291

Remains of Meat .

175

a 1'Eloise

291

Lamb

184

a la Koine

292

Duck .

157

Carrot .
Chestnut

292
296

Rhubarb Compote
Pie . .

311

296

Demi-Plum .

292

Pudding

295

Iced Cabinet .

297

Vol-au-Vent .

. 273

Minced Meat .
Nesselrode

292

296

Rice with Apples .
to boil .

283

267

Trifle .

292

Broth .

in Cloths

293

Croquettes

. 285

Apple .

294

Milk .

. 38, 39

Apricot

294

with Pears

284

Blackberry

294

Pudding

Currant, Red and White
Custard

294
294

with Apple
Poulard with .

47
. 151

Damson

294

Soup . .

Fruit .

294

Water .

Gooseberry

294

Rissole Fourree .

276

Greengage

294

Rissolettes, little Fruit

. 273

Nectarine

294

Ribs of Beef, Roasted

119

Marrow

294

Braised

119

Peach .

294

Roasting, on

Plum .

293

Roasts, Second Course

227

Plain Baked .

293

Robert Sauce

Plain Bolster .

294

Root, Beet .

. 258

Plum Bolster . .

293

Rolls, to make

Raspberry and Cherry
Rowley Powley

295
293

Brioche
Roux

12
65

Rhubarb

295

Rump Steak

. 52, 124

Whorts

295

Rum, Omelette with

. 2S1

Puff Cheesecakes .

303

Jelly .

287

Paste .

268

Russe, Charlotte .

289

Pulled Fowl for Invalids .

Rusks, to make

Pullets, on .

228

Roasting

228

Saddle of Lamb .

137

Roasted, with Cresses
Punch Jelly

227
287

Sago Gruel .
Salad, Beef.

40
167

Cold .

333

and Potatoes

167

Fish .

247

Quails

232

Fowl .

249

Quenelles. Ragout Sauoe

Game .

248

with Tongue .

151

Lobster

246

Quince Pie .

296

Miroton

245

Plain .

246

Rabbit, on .

232

Tartar . 7"

246

Roasted

232

Salads of Fruit

321, 322

Curry .

211

Salmon, Boiled

Fricassee of .

199

Broiled

Gibelotte of .

200

Curry .

215

INDEX.

361

PAGE

Salmon, Marinade .

248

Sauce, Soft Roe .

111

Matelote

Sorrel . . .

Pickled

107

Soyer's .

Salmi of Partridge

223

Spinach

72, 260

Pheasant .

. 22-2

Tomato

69,75

Salsify

256

Tartar .

75,248

Sandwiches

333

Turnip . .

71,72

Sauces, on .

Tarragon

Sauce, Anchovy .

112

White .

64,71

Anchovy Butter

.69, 117

Wild Boar's Head

244

Beans, French,

Wild Fowl .

233

Beyrout

114

Sardines and Toast

for Meat

115

Salt Pork .

142

Brown .

. 65,66

Sorrel Sauce

Cucumber
Mushroom
Beurre Noir .

67
. 66,68
98

Sauteing, on
Sausage Cake
Sausages, to cook .

62
146, 188
20

Button Onion .

to choose

Caper .

113

Cambridge .

Carrot .

to saute .

20,146

Cream .

. 116

Atherstone

Chicoree

with Turkey * ' '"' d

146

Cauliflower .

Savory Dishes

234

Cucumber

67, 71, 73

Seakale

255

Curry .

. 69

Semoulina Broth .

Demi-glaze

Milk .

Egg .

112

Soup .

Endive
Eschalot

72
66

Shrimp Sauce
Sheep s Brains . '*

12, 113
35, 176

Fumet de Gibier

233

Feet, or Trotters

'176

Fennel .

. . 112

Stock from

177

Fish .

. Ill

Head .

135

Garum . . ' ' '

111

Heart .

184

Garurn Sociorum

111

Kidneys

17, 176

Garlic .

Tongue

184

Italian Herb .

Sheep, how to cut up

130

Jardiniere

136

which are best

130

Jerusalem Artichoke

. 71, 72

Shell Fish .

250

Liaison of Eggs

Silver Jelly .

287

Lobster

113

Skate, to cook

104

New ,

113

au Beurre Noir

105

a la Creme

114

Curry .

216

simplified

114

Soup, on .

Maitre d'Hdtel

73, 117, 186

Autumn

Matelote

. 116

Artichoke

81,88

. Simple

. 116

Cabbage

Mayonnaise .

. 247

Clear .

Melted Butter .

112

Carrot, White .

Mephistophelean
Minced Herb .

75
67

Cauliflower
Crab .

89
92

Mint .

Crecy .

Muria .. . ; _

111

Fisherman's .

Mushroom ' .

66, 68, 73, 74

Game .

Mussel . . .

115

Giblet .

Onion ..

. 71, 74

Hare .

Orange . '

Hotch Potch .

Oyster .

. 74, 115

Italian Paste .

Papillote

Irish .

Peas . .

72, 73, 74

Julienne

Piquante

. 66, 186

Lamb's Head .

Quenelles .

Lentil .

Ravigote

. 67, 117

Macaroni

Robert .

Mock Turtle, Brown

Shrimp , t "

. 112

White

362

INDEX.

PAGE

Soup, Maigre
Mulligatawny .

88,91

Steak, Rump
Stewing, on

54, 164
60

Mutton Broth .

Onion .

for all kinds of Soup

Ox Cheek

Brown .

Ox Tail

to Clarify

Oyster .

Economical .

Palestine

Sheep's Feet .

177

Pea .

89,90

Strawberry Jam .

319

Pot-au-Feu

Omelette

281

Printaniere .

Salad .

321

Puree of Vegetable

Charlotte

289

Rice .

Vol-au-Vent .

273

Scotch Cock-a-leekie

Strengthening Drink

Semoulina

Stuffing, Turkey .

148

Spring .

Veal .

253

Sole .
Sheep's Head .

86
84

Sturgeon .
Sucking Pig

96,97
141

Turnip

81,89

Hind-quarter of

141

Vermicelli

Sugar, to boil

313

Wild Fowl .

color

312

Souffle

299

clear

313

Beignet

281

in Grains

312

Biscuit .

301

of Lemon

313

Coffee .

302

Spring .

313

Cream, Whipped

301

Silk Thread .

315

Cheese .

304

Vanilla.

313

Fritters

282

Sweetbreads

173

Lemon

99, 300

Sautfe .

173

Omelette

300

au Gratin

173

Saute .

301

Sweet Lait de Poule

Cream .
Orange Flower

301

299

Sweetmeat of Currant Jel

320

Orange Iced .

298

Table, Breakfast .

Punch Cake .

298

Tapioca Milk

Rice Cream .

300

Pudding

Vanilla

302

Tarragon Sauce

Smelts, Broiled .

Tartar Sauce

Fried .

101

Tarts, small Fruit .

275

for Invalids .

Tartlets, little Fruit

275

Water Souchet

Soles, small, or Slips

how made in France

Boiled .

104

Beef .

Fried .

103

new way to make

Fillets of Curried

216

Teal, a new method of co

king

225

aux Fines Herbes

104

a la sans facon

226

a la Meuniere .

103

Tench, Stewed

108

Saute in Oil .
Snow Eggs .

103
217

with Anchovy Butter
Toast, Plain

109

Snipes a la Minute
Soyer's Chop
Sauce .

224
180
69

and Eggs
Haddock .

9
14
15

Sourcrout, to cook

262

Herring .

Bavarian way .
SpareribofPork .

263
140

Kidneys .
Sardines .

17
15

Spinach . .

260

Water .

with Gravy .
with Cream .

260
260

Crumpets, to .
Muffins

Sprouts, Brussels .

259

to serve

Spring Chickens .

228

Toad in a Hole

208

Sprats, to cook
Dried . : .

Tongue, cold Ox .

24(

Sprue-grass

255

Remains of .

124, 16S

with Eggs .

217

Sheep's ^

. . 184

INDEX.

363

PAGE PAGE

Tomato Sauce

Veal, Fillet of . . 241

Tops and Bottoms .

Roasted . . 125

Trout a la Bretonne

107

Braised . .241

Pickled

107

Forcemeat of . . 253

River .

107

Galantine of 241

a la Twickenham

107

and Ham Pie . 202,234,236

Trifles

290

Knuckle of . 127, 240

Trifle Pudding

292

Loin of . 125, 127

Tripe Curry

214

Neck of, Braised . . 126

Truffles, Saute of .

262

with Peas . . 126

Turbot, to cook .

102

with Haricots . . 126

French way

102

with new Potatoes . 126

a la Creme
Turban of Almond Cake

102
304

Shoulder of, Stewed . . 127
with Sauce piquante 126

of Boudins of Fowl

198

Stuffed and Braised 126

of Pastry

304

Cold ... 241

Turkey, Boiled

146

Roasted . . 126

Braised

147

Braised . . 126

Broth from

147

Remains of . . 175

Blanquette of .

197

Vegetables, to cook . . 253

Boudins of

197

Artichokes . 259

with Celery Sauce

147

Jerusalem . . 259

to choose

144

Asparagus . . . 253

where from .

144

Beans, French . . 259

Giblets. . .

155

a la Maitre d'Hdtel 259

Gravy for

145

Gabanza . . . 262

Jerusalem Sauce

147

Haricot, White . . 260

called Jesuits .

144

a la Bretonue . 261

Galantine

238

Kidney ... 259

to dress .

238

Windsor ... 259

with Oysters .

147

Beetroot . 258

Parsley and Butte
Sausages .
Sausage-cake
Roasted

147
146
146
144

Brocoli. ... 257
Brussels Sprouts . . 259
Cauliflower ... 257
gratinfe with Cheese 257

Braised

148

Celery . . . .256

Stuffing for .

148

Cucumbers ... 258

to truss .

145

Laver .... 263

with Tomatos .

147

Lentils. ... 261

Stewed

149

Vegetable Marrow . . 257

Poults .

227

Mushrooms . . . 261

Tureen of Game .

237

large . . .261
Potatoes, their Introduction . 263

Vanilla Cream .

315

Baked . . 264

Souffte .

302

Boiled . . 263

Veal, on .

124

Irish way . 265

Breast of .

126

Fried. . . 264

Stuffed .

127

Fried, Mashed . 267

Stewed .

127

a la Lyonnaise . 265

Curried .

212

a la Maitre d'Hdtel . 264

Broth .

Peas, Green . 254

Strengthening

French way . 254

French fashion

Salsifls .... 256

Curry .

211

Seakale ... 255

Cutlets .

174

Sourcrout ... 262

aux Fines Herbes

174

Bavarian . . 263

en Papillote

174

Spinach ... 260

Saute

166

with Gravy . . 260

Chump of

125

with Cream . . 260

Fricandeau of.

170

Sprue Grass . 255

to dress

171

Truffles, English . . 262

to prepar

170

Saute of . . 262

to carve

171

Venison . . . 142

with all Sauces

171

where to keep . . 142

364

INDEX.

PAGE

Venison, how to choose

142

Water, Smelts

Haunch of

142

Cresses with Steak

124

Neck of

143

Whitings, Boiled .

Vermicelli Broth .

Broiled

16,49

Milk .

Fried .

50,99

Pudding

au Gratin

Soup .

Forcemeat of .

252

Victimized Cutlets

191

Sauted .

Vinegar, Raspberry
Vol-au-Vent

270

Fillets of
White Bait, to cook

216
10J

of ApptoB

273

Sauce .

64,70

Cherries

271

Whipped Jelly .

288

Fruit.

271

WhortsPie.

296

Gooseberries

272

Pudding

295

Oranges

272

Woodcock, Hashed

224

another .

272

a la Lucullus .

223

still plainer
Peaches

272
271

Sportsman's fashion
Widgeon, Hashed .

223
225

Plums

273

Roasted

225

Rhubarb

273

Wild Boar's Head .

243

Strawberries

273

Sauce .

244

Wild Duck, with Orange

Sauce

225

Water, Barley

Hashed

225

Fresh Fruit .

Wine, Port, Negus

333

Jelly .

White, Fillip .

333

Rice .

Toast and

Yorkshire Pudding . . 208

Souchet

104

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LAMARTINE'S LAST WORK.

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LES CONFIDENCES.

MEMOIRS OF MY YOUTH,

ALPHONSE DE LAMARTINE,

AUTHOR OF "THE HISTORY OF THE GIRONDISTS," ETC.

Translated from the French,

BY EUGENE PLUNKETT.

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its details, is the finest thing in the book, and perhaps the best thing Lamartine has ever
written. It is a picture which wili be read and remembered, even should its framework
fall into decay. The translating of this edition is well done, and the original of several
poems introduced in the work is judiciously given in an appendix." Journal of Com'
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D. A. & Co. ALSO PUBLISH IN THE ORIGINAL FRENCH,

LES CONFIDENCES

RAPHAEL,

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FRIENDS AND FORTUNE;

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