Full text of "Modern Mexico's standard guide to the city of Mexico and vicinity"

University of California Berkeley

GEO. R. WOODIN & Co.

>mmtit0

Doard of Trade Building, i 3 1 State Street,

Rooms 816, 817, 818,

Boston, Mass., U. S. A.

BIB

A Corner of a Patio.

flXaP^aaySSaK ZEf$^?3X$^XI&^^

THE PARA RUBBER PLANTATION CO.

Owns 1,400 square miles of natural rubber forests in South America, over 6,000,000 trees,
15 years old, which will produce on an average of 5 Ibs. to the tree. Our rubber is com-
mercially known as PARA, sells for 40 per cent* more than any other rubber (see market
reports) . A limited amount of treasury stock is now offered to the public at par value of
$10.00 per share. The personnel of the Company is a guarantee of its future success.

DIRECTORS :

President: JOHN CUDAHY, of John Cudahy Co., Chicago, III.

Vice=President : ALLEN T. HAIQHT, President Manhattan Terrace Co. of New York.
Treasurer: ELMER B. MARTIN, Secretary S. K. Martin Lumber Co., Chicago, 111.

Secretary : F. M. CRAWFORD, 52 Broadway, New York City.
J. WESLEY ALLISON, President Cramp Steel Co., Ltd., New York City.

W. J. HILANDS, Capitalist and Banker, Chicago, III.
L. B. ADAMS, Guaranty Savings and Loan Ass'n, Minneapolis, Minn.

A. H. BARTLE, Capitalist, New York City.
LESLIE STAVERT, American Linseed Oil Company, Chicago, 111.

ADVISORY BOARD:

ANDRE MICHELIN, of Michelin & Co., Bankers, Paris, France.

ROBERT OSTERRIETH, of Osterrieth & Co., Crude Rubber Imp., Antwerp, Belgium.

ARMAND QRISAR, of Qrisar & Marisly, Crude Rubber Imp., Antwerp, Belgium.

LEON FUCHS, of Fuchs, De Decker & Co., Crude Rubber Imp., Antwerp, Belgium.

L. C. VAN DEN BROECK, Rubber Broker, Antwerp, Belgium.

Registrar of Stock and Eastern Depository of Funds:
EASTERN TRUST CO., New York.

Western Depository: South American Manager:

FIRST NATIONAL BANK, Chicago, 111. KENNETH ROSE, San Carlos, Venezuela.

For Full Particulars, Address

PARA RUBBER PLANTATION CO., 52 Broadway, New York City.

^S^^^i^^^ 2S353

The Direct Line

with choice of

Routes

St. Louis and the City of Mexico

The Short Line via Laredo.

Observation Parlor Cafe Dining Cars. (Meals a la carte).
Excursion Tickets on Sale All Year Round.

C. G. WAPNER,

Second Vice-President

RUSSELL HARDING, H. C. TOWNSEND,

3d Vice-Pres. and Gen'l Mgr. Gen'l Pass, and Ticket Agt.

ST. LOUIS, MO.
H. C. DINKINS, WM. E. HOYT,

General Agent, Hotel Cohseo, General Eastern Passenger Agent,

MEXICO CITY, MEX. 335 Broadway, NEW YORK.

bGQGQGQGO<QOOQOQOGiXK>GOOG^

By H. F. SCHLATTMAN.

(Copyright-Published by Permission.)

A. J. Peyton & Company,
BANKERS

AND

BROKERS,

STOCKS, BONDS,
INVESTMENT SECURITIES,

69 Wall Street, New York.

TRENTON OFFICE: MEXICO OFFICE:

401 Broad Street, Bank Bldg., za San Francisco, No. 7,

Trenton, N. J. Suite No. i.

WE MAKE A SPECIALTY OF MEXICAN INVESTMENTS.

One of Mexico's Horsemen.

MODERN MEXICO'S

STANDARD GUIDE

TO THE

CITY OF MEXICO

AND VICINITY,

ROBERT S. BARRETT.

Cftirti

1902-3

PUBLISHED BY
MODERN MEXICO,

2a INDEPENDENCE No. 8, CITY OF MEXICO, MEXICO,

AND

116 NASSAU ST., NEW YORK CITY, U. S. A.

Mexican Horseman in Charro Costume.

CONTENTS.

Introduction . 17

Ready Reference Map of the City of Mexico . . . 18

Practical Information 19

Routes to Mexico City Arrival Baggage Hotels Restaurants Money Banks
Newspapers Representatives of Foreign Governments Postage Telegraph Hacks
Churches Sightseeing Street Cars Plan of the Streets Railroad Depots City
Ticket Offices.

Historical 33

Early History of Mexico The Aztecs Civilization Customs Cortez The Con-
quest The Viceroys Hidalgo Independence The American War The French
Invasion Maximilian Juarez Porfirio Diaz Peace.

Facts and Figures About the Republic of Mexico ... 45

Geographical Physical Features Climate Population Religion Language Races
Industries.

Around the Plaza de la Constitucion 65

The City's Heart In" History The Cathedral Interior Chapels Pictures Sagrario
Metropolitano The Palace Liberty Bell Hall of Ambassadors National Museum
Hall of Monoliths Calendar and Sacrificial Stones Historical Departments National
Pawn Shop Flower Market Portales.

From the Zocalo to Chapultepec ....... 95

Mexico's Pride Church of La Profesa Iturbide Hotel American Club Church of
San Francisco Story of Its Rise and Fall Boundaries of the Monastery Father
Gante The Jockey Club The Alameda Residences Paseo de la Reforma Glorietas
Statue of Charles IV Statue of Columbus The Last King of the Aztecs Statue
of Independence Chapultepec One of the World's Grandest Views The Grounds
Military Academy.

Places of Interest . . . 115

San Carlos Art Gallery Mexican Artists The Best Pictures The National Library
The School of Mines San Fernando Cemetery The Tomb of Juarez Noche Triste
Tree American Cemetery.

Amusements 135

The Great Day in Mexico The Bull Fight Complete Description The Theaters
Orrin's Circus.

The Valley of Mexico 143

Beautiful Spots Guadalupe The Legend The Virgin's Crown Chapels La Viga
Canal Floating Gardens Suburban Towns Cortez's Home.

Side Trips from Mexico City . . 163

Amecameca Cordova Cuautla Cuernavaca Guadalajara Lake Chapala Jalapa
Morelia Guanaj uato Oaxaca Orizaba Puebla Ruins of Mitla Toluca Tula
Vera Cruz.

DO YOU WANT A LIFE INCOME?

A Saving of $5 Per Month Will Soon Secure It.

Do you save your money each month ? Would you save it if you were protected
in your investment and guaranteed at least 6^ on your money from the time of your
first payment ? Would you save it if, in addition to interest, your principal was
returned to you in 10 years, you still retaining a paying interest in the Company? A
saving of a few dollars each month will insure a steady income for life. Let us tell
you how.

THE CONSOLIDATED UBERO PLANTATIONS COMPANY is a consolidation
of eighteen (18) of rhe most profitable plantations engaged in the growing and mar-
keting of tropical products including Oranges, Lemons, Grape Fruit, Yucca, Coffee,
Rubber, Pineapples, Etc., Etc The property is located in the richest agricultural
district of Mexico, on the Tehuantepec National Railroad, equidistant from the Gulf
of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean.

The Management of this Company are the leaders and pioneers in this most profit-
able Mexican industry. No other company is better fitted financially or has greater
experience in this business.

This management has made a financial success of several similar companies,
notably among which are the Ubero Plantation Company of Indianapolis and
the Ubero Plantation Company of Boston, now paying respectively 20, and
10; yearly dividends. We have hundreds of clients in the United States who
are receiving dividends from investments made in these companies.

Our offer to you is liberal and honest, and you cannot afford to ignore it.

The securities of the Consolidated Company are in the form of bonds in denomi-
nations of $500. and in FIRST MORTGAGE SINKING FUND GOLD NOTES in
denominations of $5 each. You can invest in one of two ways: on the monthly pay-
ment plan or for cash. If you can afford to pay $5 per month for any luxury you are
now enjoying, you can afford to buy one of these bonds. Let us tell you how.

Suppose you subscribe for one bond on the monthly payment plan. For each $5
you put in you receive a 61 FIRST MORTGAGE GOLD NOTE which is fully secured.
The basis of this security is the first mortgage given to the International Trust Com-
pany of Boston by the Consolidated Ubero Plantations Company on all the assets of
the Company, real and personal, including developed properties, pineapple canneries,
starch mills, bank, warehouses, tin-can factories, general store, merchandise, live
stock, machinery, buildings, etc., amounting to over one million dollars. Aside
from this, the mortgage covers the Company's coffee business and distributing

stations in the United States, together with all moneys on deposit, both in the
United States and Mexico (Cash balance January 1st, 1903, $100,000).

The International Trust Company pays 6% interest on these notes in two semi-
annual payments of Z% on July 1st ana January 1st. Money invested begins to draw
this interest from date of purchase. When you have accumulated $500 worth of these
notes you exchange them for a $500 bond (drawing interest at 6%) and receive at the
time of the exchange $500 worth of capital stock.

Seventy per cent (70$) of the net earnings each year are deposited with the Inter-
national Trust Company for redemption of these notes and bonds in ten years or less.
Thus you are sure to receive % interest on all the money you put in, plus whatever
your stock earns, receive back your entire principal in ten years, and still have your
investment represented by your holdings of stock, which has not cost you a single
cent. This stock will earn and pay at least 20$ per cent, dividends each year or $100
on each bond purchased, so that you will have a life income by saving a few
dollars each month.

On the other hand, if you buy for cash, you pay $500 for each bond. You receive
(in addition to your bond or bonds) an equal amount ($500) of capital stock for each
bond purchased.

You receive Q% yearly interest on this bond and have your money paid back to you
in ten years or less, just the same as if you paid for it by the month; but the cash
purchaser receives this special privilege he obtains his capital stock immediately.
The purchaser for cash receives dividends equal in amount to those received by the
purchaser on the monthly payment plan, only he receives them more quickly.
Where can you find a better and safer investment ?

With a directorate composed of men of integrity and unquestioned ability;
with an advisory board composed of 21 representative business men ; with
absolute safety of your investment ; with an honest, experienced and com-
petent management ; with a guarantee of 6? interest ; with your it oney
returned to you in ten years, and with additional dividends paid you on y :ur
stock holdings, can you fail to take advantage of this offer?

The only thing we ask of you is that you give this proposition a careful and a
thorough investigation. Ask us to send you our illustrated booklet entitled
6# FIRST MORTGAGE SINKING FUND GOLD BONDS." It is plain, convinc-
ing and interesting.

Address all correspondence and make all remittances payable to

THE CONSOLIDATED UBERO PLANTATIONS Co.,

90 State Street, Boston, Mass.

NOTE. Of the accompanying illustrations, three are photographs taken on our plantations, and the
fourth shows a typical scene in the harbor of Vera Cruz, one of the shipping points for our products.

INTRODUCTION.

. J

Olfk I TT has been said that throughout the world there is not such a splendid
A scene as the first view of Mexico City, the capital of the Mexican

Republic. Nestling in a valley of surpassing beauty and like a
jewel in its setting of silvery lakes and dark-green hills, the
belfries and towers of its hundred churches and palaces are
mirrored against a sky that baffles all description. It was this
sight that inspired the feelings of awe, of wonder and admiration
in the bosom of Hernan Cortez, as he stood with his little band
of adventurers upon the crest of one of the surrounding hills and
looked down upon the capital of the Moctezumas for the first
time. Such feelings are common with all tourists as they view
Mexico City from any of the surrounding elevations.

But it is not the beautiful scene that alone inspires. It is the
new sensation that awakens the imagination, that brings into play
all the emotions, as the reminiscences come of the mighty conflicts that have dyed every
foot of the city's soil, of the many people and races who have made it their home. Here
are the ruins of a civilization, thousands of years before history commenced. Here was
the home of Moctezuma, and there under the giant trees of Chapultepec, dreamt of the
coming of "the white god" from across the seas. Here the flags of a hundred different
governments have flown to the breeze. Here Maximilian raised his imperial standard which
brought death to him at the end. All Mexico inspires the same interest, but here in the
capital it reaches its climax.

The City of Mexico is the object point of all tourists, and naturally so. It is distinctive
and individual, and is rapidly becoming modern in every respect. Its streets are wide and
handsome, its Paseo dc la Reforma one of the world's most beautiful drives ; its hundreds
of churches are evidence of the wealth and liberality of the people; its stores compare
favorably with those of Paris or London.

Yet with all its progress and bustle in the change from the old to the new, the city
still retains many of the ancient characteristics and customs of Mexico that have given it
the name of the manana land. The air is poetic and dreamy with age, and will remain as
long as Mexico stands.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE has been written for the purpose of
providing the tourist with such practical information and intelligent description as it is
hoped may add to the pleasure and convenience of his trip. Its prose and pictures will
prove pleasant reminders of a visit to Mexico City. The author makes little claim to
originality. He has gathered his material here and there from the best available sources.

Mexico City, February 1, 1900.
Second edition, January 1, 1901.
Third edition, January 1, 1903.

Map of the Central Portion of the City of Mexico.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION.

OUTES TO MEXICO CITY. From the border of the United
States and Mexico there are three railroads running to the City of
Mexico. From El Paso, Texas, is the Mexican Central Railway;
from Laredo, Texas, the National Railroad of Mexico; from Eagle
Pass, Texas, the Mexican International Railroad. All railroads in the
United States sell through tourist tickets, with a return limit of nine
months, via any of these routes. All through trains have Pullman
sleeping cars attached, and passengers traveling in Mexico are sur-
rounded with every comfort. The trip to Mexico City can also be
comfortably made by steamer from New York City. The Ward
Line operates a weekly service between New York City and Vera
Cruz, and has some fine steamers plying between these two ports.
From Vera Cruz the trip to the City of Mexico is made via either the
Interoceanic or Mexican Railway.

ARRIVAL IN MEXICO CITY. There is no Union Station and
all roads entering the city have separate depots. The best method
of reaching the central portion of the city, where all the hotels are
located, is to take a carriage and give the driver the name of the
hotel desired. There are also street cars from all the stations to the

center, but a tourist, unacquainted with the language and arriving in Mexico City for the
first time, would have some difficulty in finding the right car. The safest way of having
baggage transferred from station to hotel is to give the checks to the uniformed representa-
tive of the International Transfer Company, who boards all trains before their arrival,
takes up the railroad companies' checks and rechecks the baggage from the station to any
part of the city. The charge for this service is 50 cents, Mexican Currency.

HOTELS. Hotels in Mexico have not reached the good condition that the large
tourist travel seems to warrant, but they are gradually improving each year, and one can
be very comfortable without great difficulty. During the winter months, the hotel accommo-
dations in the City of Mexico are taxed to the utmost, and in order to secure good
accommodations, they should be engaged by letter or telegraph ten days in advance of
one's arrival. All hotels are operated on the European plan and have restaurants attached,
which are usually under a different management from that of a hotel. A fixed charge is
made per day for room, light and attendance, and it will be found an excellent plan to
have the rate clearly understood before the room is engaged. The principal hotels, their
locations and rates, in Mexican Currency, are as follows :

Hotel Reforma, Paseo de la Reforma; $3.00 per day, up.

Hotel Sanz, Mariscala No. 2, fronting the Alameda; $3.00 per day, up.

Hotel Jardin, First Independencia No. 5 ; $3.00 per day, up.

Hotel Iturbide, First San Francisco No. 12; $3.00 per day, up.

Palace Hotel, Refugio y Angel; $2.00 per day, up.

Hotel Coliseo, Coliseo Nuevo No. 10; $2.00 to $6.00 per day.

Hotel San Carlos, Coliseo Nuevo No. 3; $1.50 to $4.00 per day.

Hotel Grand, Calle Ortega No. 12; $1.50 to $6.00 per day.

Hotel Guardiola, First San Francisco No. 14; $2.00 to $6.00 per day.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

RESTAURANTS. In addition to those attached to each hotel, the principal restaur-
ants are Maison Doree, First San Francisco ; Porter's Cafe, First San Francisco 4 ; Cafe de
Paris, Coliseo Viejo No. 17; Bach's Salon, Second San Francisco, and the well-known
and beautiful restaurant at Chapultepec, almost under the shadow of the Castle. In all of
these restaurants there are English-speaking head waiters, and bills of fare printed in
English. Meals are, with few exceptions, a la carte, and the prices are affixed to each
article. Where table d'hote is served, the price is from 75 cents to $2.50. Arrangements
may be made for board by the day or week, at rates for two or three meals per day, as
desired. Board can be secured in most of the city restaurants for $40.00 per month.

MONEY. Only Mexican money is used in the City of Mexico, and United States
currency must, therefore, be
changed. This can be ef-
fected at any bank, or money
exchange, of which .there are
a number located on the prin-
cipal streets. American money
is at a premium of about 150
per cent. ; that is, one United
States dollar is worth $2.50,
Mexican Currency. New
York exchange (cashiers'
drafts) is the most desirable
manner of carrying money,
as it can always be sold for
the highest market prices.
Mexican coins consist of
pennies (centavos), half
dimes, ten cents, twenty
cents, quarters (dos reales),
half dollars and dollar
(pesos'). In making calcula-
tions, Mexicans, especially the
lower classes, count every-
thing by the real, a silver coin
valued at twelve cents (not
now in circulation). Thus
three cents is a quartilla (one-
quarter of a real), six cents,
a media (one-half of a real),
twenty-five cents, dos reales
(two reals), and so on up to
a dollar. The paper money

in circulation consists of notes from one dollar upward, issued by the National Bank, The Bank
of London & Mexico, or by one of the state banks. All of these issues now pass at par in the
City of Mexico, but in the interior a note issued by a state bank is subject to a slight discount

BANKS. The principal banks are: Banco Nacional, Pte. Espiritu Panto 6; Bank of
London & Mexico, Lerdo 3; Banco Central Mexicano, San Augustin and Angel; Banco
International e Hipotecario, Cadena 11 ; American Bank, Gante 1 ; United States Banking
Company, Gante 1; International Bank and Trust Company of America, San Francisco
& Betlemitas; United States and Mexican Trust Company, First San Francsico 4; Security
Bank, San Juan de Letran 1.

A Mexican Gateway.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

NEWSPAPERS. No fewer than fifty newspapers are published in Mexico City, the
principal English ones being as follows : The Mexican Herald, issued every morning, with
Associated Press telegrams; the Anglo-American, issued every Sunday morning; the
Mexico City Saturday Night, issued every Saturday, and Modern Mexico, an illustrated
monthly journal, devoted to showing Mexico's progress. Among the Spanish dailies are
El Imparcial and El Mundo, issued every morning and afternoon, and which are regarded
as semi-official organs of the government; El Tiempo and El Pais, representing the clerical
party, and bitterly opposed to the United States of America; El Correo de Espanol, the
organ of the Spanish colony; El Popular, La Voz de Mexico, El Diario Oficial and others.
The Deutsche Zeitung von Mcxiko and Le Courrier du Mexique are the organs respectively,
of the German and French colonies.

REPRESENTATIVES OF FOREIGN GOVERNMENTS IN MEXICO. The repre-
sentatives of foreign governments in Mexico City are as follows :

AMBASSADOR.

United State s General

Powell Clayton, Buenavista, 4j.

MINISTERS.

Austria-Hungary Count
Howenwart, Bucareli, 1808.

Belgium Viscount Beughem.
Cor. La Paz and Ejido.

France Camille Blondel,
Calle Exposicion, 16.

Germany Baron von Hey-
king, Calle San Augustin, 7.

Great Britain George Gre-
ville, Ave Berlin, 3.

Italy Conde Vinci, Calle del
Eliseo, 6.

Japan Aimaro Sato, la.
Hamburgo, 1.

Russia Gregory de Wollant,
Bucareli, 1883.

Spain Marques de Prat de
Nantotiillet, Patoni, 4.
CONSULS.

Denmark Heinrich L. Wie-
chers, Cadena, 4.

Ecuador- Leopoldo Pigout,
Hospital Real, 3.

Germany Paul Kosidowski, Calle San Augustin, 7.

Great Britain Lucien Jerome, San Juan de Letran, 5

Holland Paul Kosidowski, Calle San Augustin, 7.

Italy Giacinto Paoleti, Calle de la Paz, 6.

Japan Aimaro Sato, la. Hamburgo, 1.

Portugal Jose Philipp, 2a. de Santgo. Tacubaya.

Spain Manuel R. Escudero, 2a de Artes, 2026.

Sweden and Norway Jose Breier, Cadena, 20.

Switzerland Alfredo Kern, la. Plateros 1 "La Suiza."

United States Andrew D. Barlow, San Diego, 6.

A Basket Seller.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

POSTAGE. There is a regular delivery, by carriers, in the City of Mexico, and letters
addressed to any hotel will be promptly delivered. The Mexican Herald publishes every
day a list of all letters of foreigners that are not addressed to any specific number. They
must be called for at the General Post-Office, on Calle de la Moneda, in the north end of
the National Palace, a few doors before the National Museum is reached. A visiting
card should be presented and will be the only identification required. There are several
branch post-offices in the city where stamps may be purchased, letters registered and postal
orders on the United States secured. The most central one is at San Juan de Letran No.
1.3, between San Francisco and Independencia streets. The letter boxes on the principal
streets are cleared regularly. The rate on letters from Mexico to the United States,
Canada and all points within the Mexican Republic is five cents for each half ounce, or
fraction thereof. To points in the Postal Union the rate is ten cents. Newspapers, one
cent for each two ounces, or fraction thereof. Letters can also be registered, the fee for
which is ten cents. In sending newspapers to the United States, indorsement should be
made just above the address, "No Lottery Advertisements." If this is done, papers will
be allowed to enter the United States
without molestation. Lottery advertise- ,
ments in Spanish papers to be sent
abroad should be cut out.

TELEGRAPH. The Mexican Gov-
ernment owns and operates a system
of telegraph wires reaching to all parts
of the Republic. Messages are also ac-
cepted for the United States. Its main
office, where telegrams are received, is
Cinco de Mayo, No. 2. There are also
several branch offices in different parts
of the city. The Mexican Telegraph
Company operates a cable to the United
States, via Galveston, Texas. Its office
is at Cinco de Mayo, No. 6. Messages
are also received at the ticket offices of
various railroad companies for trans-
mission to local points on their lines.

EXPRESS OFFICES. Wells-Fargo
Express, to United States points and
points on Mexican Central Railway and
Mexican Railway, Marique, 4. On a Back Street.

Mexican National Express, to United
States points and points on National Railroad of Mexico. Under Hotel San Carlos.

Interoceanic Express, to points on Interoceanic & Hidalgo Railways. Gante, 14.

HACKS. -There are three classes of hacks, commanding three rates of fare. Class
is denoted by small tin flags, near the driver's box. Prices are as follows: Blue Flag,
week days, 50 cents per half hour, or less ; Sundays and holidays, 75 cents per half hour, or
less; week days, Sundays and holidays from 10:00 p. M. to 6:00 A. M., $1.00 per half hour,
or less; Red Flag, week days, 37 cents per half hour, or less; Sundays and holidays, 50
cents per half hour, or less ; week days, Sundays and holidays from 10 :00 p. M. to 6 A. M.,
75 cents per half hour, or less ; Yellow Flag, week days and Sundays, 25 cents per half hour,
or less ; week days, Sundays and holidays, from 10.00 P. M. to 6 :00 A. M., $1.00 per hour.
Feast days are the fifth of February, the fifth of May, the sixteenth of September and
Thursday and Friday of Holy Week. On Tuesday of the Carnival, and November 2d,

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

Methodist Episcopal Church, Gantc., No. 5.

prices are double those of week days. The least time that a coach can be hired for is half
an hour. When a coach is taken for a point outside of the city limits, the driver is
allowed to include in his charge the time required for the coach to return to the stand
whence it is taken. Each coachman is compelled to carry, and show, upon demand, his
tariff of charges. All complaints of overcharge, etc., should be made to the Direccion
General de Coaches, in the Municipal Palace.

CHURCHES. A full description of the principal Roman Catholic Churches in this city
will be found in another part of THE STANDARD GUIDE. Tourists should be careful to be

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

reverent when a church is entered, and not to treat with levity what others may do. It is not
necessary to follow native customs, but the hat should always be removed and the voice
lowered. The principal Protestant churches, where services in English are held, are as
follows :

CHRIST CHURCH, EPISCOPAL. Fourth Providencia; No. 5. Services, Sundays
8:00 A. M V 11:00 A. M. and 8:00 P. M.

METHODIST EPISCOPAL. Gante No. 5, Reverend H. A. Bassett, Pastor. Services,
Sundays 10 :15 A. M. and 8 :00 p. M. ; Prayer Meetings, Wednesdays 7 :30 P. M.

UNION EVANGELICAL CHURCH. First Calle Humboldt, Reverend W. Elsworth
Lawson, Pastor. Services, Sundays 11 :00 A. M. and 8 :00 P. M. ; Prayer Meetings, Thurs-
days 5:00 P. M.

CHRISTIAN SCIENCE. Hopkins House, San Juan Letran 13. Services, Sunday
11 :00 A. M., and Wednesday, 8 p. M.

SIGHT-SEEING IN MEXICO CITY. The amount of time required to see the Capital
naturally depends upon the individual taste of the visitor and the amount of sight-seeing
that he is able to do in a day. Most travelers on their arrival in the City of Mexico find it
advisable to remain comparatively quiet for a day or two if they are not accustomed to an
altitude of nearly 8,000 feet. Of
course, days and weeks can be spent
with interest and profit in either the
National Museum or the Galleries of
the San Carlos Academy, but, for the
traveler whose time is very limited, the
main points of interest in the city can
be hurriedly seen in three days. If
only a few days can be given to the
city the visitor should endeavor to ar-
range his schedule so that the time
spent at the Capital will include a
Sunday, as many of the things that
are characteristic of the country occur
on that day. It is the great day of
recreation and sport of all kinds.
However short the stay intended in
Mexico City, one day must certainly
be set aside for shopping. The curio

stores, and the shops that sell goods typical of the country, are full of interest for northern
visitors, and besides these, there are several large establishments whose display rooms are
well worthy of a visit. The visitor will have little difficulty in finding his way about among
the stores in the central business portion of the city and in all the large establishments and
those that cater to the trade of foreigners, English-speaking clerks will be found. If
necessary both the National Museum and the Art Gallery of the San Carlos Academy, which
are close together, can be visited in one morning. Such time does not admit of much more
than a walk through these interesting places, but it is better to see them hurriedly than not
at all. The afternoon of the same day can be largely utilized by a trip to the suburb of
Guadalupe, less than half an hour's ride north of the city on the electric cars. Here is
located the romantic shrine of Guadalupe, Mexico's particular saint. From the church
on the hill fine views of the valley and the mountains may be obtained. The third
day of a brief itinerary should, by all means, be a Sunday. If so it can be crowded
full from morning till night. The tourist who desires to begin early enough can commence
the day with a trip to the Viga canal, by street car, starting from the south side of the

A Sidewalk Breakfast.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

Gen. Powell Clayton, the United States Ambassador to Mexico.

main plaza, opposite the Cathedral. The trip will take him through the older and poor
quarter of the city, and the sight of the incoming boats on the ancient canal loaded with
flowers and vegetables, wood and fodder, is an interesting one. During the morning the
flower market, west of the Cathedral and the "Thieves' Market," across the street from the
south end of National Palace, should- be visited. Mass can be heard in the Cathedral, and
afterwards a climb to the top of the Cathedral towers will afford a splendid panorama of
the city and surrounding country. All these visits should be made by 11 o'clock, allowing
time for a change from morning costume before going to the promenade concert in the
Alameda from 12 to 1. The Sunday afternoon is also fully occupied. During the season
of bull fights, which lasts from October to March, most tourists desire to see at least a
part of one of these typical exhibitions. They begin promptly at 3 o'clock and last about
two hours. At the conclusion of the afternoon sports, the time from 5 to 7 P. M. should
be spent in driving on the Paseo de la Reforma, the famous drive connecting the city
with the Castle of Chapultepec, that was planned by Carlota. The drive to the castle, and

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

in the park about the base of the great rock, is enlivened by good band music and also
affords an opportunity of seeing hundreds of Mexico City's fine equipages. This parade
offers the only opportunity the average tourist has of catching a glimpse of the wealth
and fashion of the Capital. Tn addition to the places that have been briefly mentioned, the
many suburban towns, easily accessible by electric or mule cars and the numerous points
of historic and picturesque interest in the city, afford material that will provide many
days of sight-seeing. For these scattered points of interest it will be necessary for
strangers, especially those not familiar with Spanish, to have a competent guide. Guides
can be secured through the assistance of the manager of any of the hotels for $5 Mexican
money per

STREET CARS. The street car system is a very excellent one and is owned by one
company, the Federal District Railway Company. The fare in the city is six cents; to the
suburbs the price varies according to the distance. Passengers riding in the city on cars
going to suburban points are required to pay fare to the first suburban station. The
principal point of starting for all the lines is the west side of the Main Square or Zocalo.

PLAN OF STREETS. The city is ,
divided into eight districts (demarca-
ciones). Ten years ago a system of
naming the streets was adopted, and the
old names, which were previously used,
were abandoned. The streets running
east and west were called Avenidas, and
those running north and south were
called Calles (streets). Each of the
avenues and streets has a number. This
division is a very excellent one, but un-
fortunately, it was impossible to get the
people, especially the uneducated classes,
to call the streets by their new names.
The Government, in order to compel
them to give up the old names, took
down all the old signboards. This
brought about a great deal of confusion,
and such a great clamor arose that the
Government was compelled to put up the
old signs again. At the present time

the new names are not at all used. Under the old system each block, with few exceptions,
has a separate name, and it is very difficult for a stranger to find his way about the city.
For instance, the street running from the Zocalo to the Plazuela, in which stands the
statue of Charles IV., has eight names. The first block after leaving the Zocalo is First
Plateros, the second block, Second Plateros, then come Profesa, Second San Francisco, two
blocks of First San Francisco, Puente de San Francisco, Avenida Juarez and, lastly, three
blocks of Calle Patoni.

RAILROAD DEPOTS. The depot of the National Railroad of Mexico is on the Paseo
de la Reforma, opposite the statue of Cuauhtemoc. This line runs to Toluca, Morelia,
Patzcuaro, San Luis Potosi, Monterey and the United States. Reached by Colonia or
Reforma street cars.

The depot of the Mexican Central Railway is at Buena Vista, just behind the street,
Santa Maria de la Rivera. The principal points on this line are Pachuca, Aguascalientes, \
Guadalajara, Zacatecas, Chihuahua and El Paso. Reached by Santa Maria cars.

Bicycle Mail Carriers.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

Trains of the Mexico, Cuernavaca and Pacific Railroad, for Cuernavaca and Iguala,
leave from the Mexican Central depot.

The Mexican Railway's depot adjoins that of the Mexican Central; principal points,
Orizaba, Puebla and Vera Cruz.

The station of the Interoceanic Railway, which reaches Puebla, Jalapa and Vera Cruz
is at San Lazaro, directly behind the National Palace, on a continuation of the same
street which passes in front of the National Museum.

CITY TICKET OFFICES. National Railroad of Mexico, Coliseo Nuevo No. 10, first
floor Coliseo Hotel.

Mexican Central Railway, Plazuela de Guardiola, corner San Francisco and Santa Isabel.

Interoceanic Railway of Mexico, Gante No. 7.

Mexican Railway, Gante No. 7.

Mexico, Cuernavaca & Pacific Railroad, 3d Avenida Juarez, No. 4.

Ward Steamship Line, Calle Gante No. ]2.

Mexican International Railroad, San Juan de Letran, No. 13.

Delivering a Coffin.

HISTORICAL.

O separate the history of the City of Mexico from that of the
entire country is an impossible task, inasmuch as one is
inseparably bound with the other, and the history of the city
practically answers for one of the whole Republic, and vice
versa. The foundation of the present capital is entirely en-
veloped in mystery, and from the mass of traditions and
legends, no definite explanation has yet been reached by his-
torians. Some writers have built up a gorgeous superstruc-
ture of fancy upon some of the improbable legends that have
come down from the Conquest, but there is no ground for
their imaginative romances. After the Conquest the fanatics
who followed in Cortez's tracks swept across the country,
destroying everything that might have served to throw light
on the history of the early races. The walls of temples and
palaces were thrown down and the pictured parchments torn
to pieces. The only remnants of the ancient races are the
few scrolls of parchment preserved in the National Museum
and in the libraries of Europe, and the standing ruins of
several ancient cities.

It is generally agreed that the Aztecs, the last race before
the Conquest, settled in Mexico in 1196, A. D. From whence
they came is a disputed point, some historians claiming from
the North, while others believe they came up from South
America. They established their city on one of the islands in
the Valley of Mexico and called it Mexitl (Mexico) after one
of their gods, or chiefs.

Their first capital was a miserably built collection of houses, made of reeds and straw,
like some of the huts that still stand on the banks of the Canal de la Viga; but in 1318 the
inhabitants began to erect massive houses of brick and stone. In 1483-87, the vast temple
of Huitzilopochtli was erected on the Main Square, and was inaugurated with the sacrifice
of 20,000 prisoners.

Mexico was conquered by the Spanish under the leadership of Hernan Cortez in 1521,
during the reign of Moctezuma Second. Cortez first entered the city on November 8, 1519,
and was received by Moctezuma himself. He made his residence with his 7,000 followers in
the large castle-like palace of Prince Axayacatl, fronting on the Main Square. From the
end of November, Moctezuma was here kept a prisoner. He was wounded on June 27, 1520,
addressing his people, and two days later died from his wounds. On July 1, 1520, known as
the "Noche Triste" (The Dismal Night), a great battle occurred, at which time Cortez and
his* '- v allies were driven from the City of Mexico, through the highway of Tacuba. The
defeat;*^P gallantly gained, did not have the anticipated effect, for on May 30, 1521, Cortez
appeared ixsfore the city with 300,000 warriors, and after a siege of 75 days, during which
time Cuauhtemoc, the last ruler of the Aztecs, was captured, he occupied and destroyed
the city on August 13, 1521.

At the time of the coming of Cortez, the City of Mexico was a well-built town of stone.
Prescott, in his .famous story of the Conquest, gives an elaborate description of the city,

. vli

^^MfflWk*

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

its buildings and inhabitants. It is a book every tourist in Mexico should read while he is
studying the city. According to his description, which was secured from writers contem-
temporaneous with Cortez, the city was built like Venice on a group of islands, separated
from one another by canals, and crossed by strong, well-built bridges. Many of the streets
in the city of the present time have the prefix "Puente" (bridge).

The vast main square, with its temples and palaces, occupied the same spot as the
modern plaza. The great Teocalli was the largest and most remarkable building. It stood

A Carved Doorway in Mexico City.

on the site now occupied by the Cathedral and was a combined temple and pantheon. It
consisted of various groups of buildings, inclosed by a wall 1,200 feet square. A full
description of the temple is given by Prescott. Here were located the Calendar Stone,
and the famous Sacrificial Stone, now deposited in the National Museum. One of the
most remarkable buildings in the group was the horrible "Skull Deposit," a pyramidal
structure, crowned with a kind of high ladder, on whose rounds the skulls of the sacrifices
were arranged, containing, at the time of the Conquest, about 24,000 skulls. In the limits
of this temple are said to have lived 7,000 priests.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

The city was partially destroyed by Cortez, and in 1522 was rebuilt.

Mexico was under the dominion of Spain for 300 years, during which time there were
five governors, two Audencias, and sixty-two Viceroys. Of the latter, the most noted was
the Count de Revillagigedo, who was the great reformer of the period from 1789 to 1794.
He paved the city, built sewers, executed bandits and sent out exploring expeditions. He
attended the erection of public works in person, and was on the alert day and night, so
that nothing escaped him. It is said that he tripped on an uneven piece 'of pavement, and
had the workmen called from their beds and told them to have it repaired before morning.

The Patio of a Mexican House.

On another occasion he found a street that was barricaded by some native huts. He sent
for an officer and ordered the street opened, so he could pass through on his way to mass
the next morning. To this day the street is called Calle Revillagigedo.

In 1810 the first steps towards liberty were made. Hidalgo, a patriotic priest of the
town of Dolores, together with Allende and Aldama, took the initiative. On the night of
September 15th, he rang the bell of his church, ostensibly to call the people to mass, but
really to call them to war. With a body of 300 men, armed only with clubs and knives, he
started the first revolution. He took from the altar the banner of Guadalupe, and it
became the standard of Independence. Hidalgo and his band were successful in rousing
great feeling among the people, and he steadily advanced towards Mexico City. The
Spanish troops were defeated at Las Cruces, almost within sight of the city, on October

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

30, 1810, but for some unknown reason a retreat was made towards the interior. Hidalgo,
Allende, Aldama and Jimenez were captured by the Spaniards on May 21, 1811, and
executed in Chihuahua on July 26th of the same year.

A desultory war was carried on in all parts of the country for the next four years
until General Iturbide came over to the revolutionists in 1814. His army, known as the
"Army of the Three Guarantees," finally accomplished the Independence of Mexico.
Iturbide entered the City of Mexico September 21, 1821.

On February 24, 1822, the first Congress of Mexico assembled in the Capital. Almost
immediately there was discontent and the people were divided into two political factions,
one composed of the Army and the church, that had for its object the placing of Iturbide

A Residence in Mexico City.

upon the throne, and the other the idea of an Empire under a Spanish Prince. On May
19, 1822, Iturbide was elected Emperor, and on July 21st, he and his wife were crowned in
the Cathedral as Emperor and Empress of Mexico. The Empire was short-lived. Before
the end of the year it came to an end by the proclamation of a Republic on December 6,
1822, by General Antonio Lopez de Santa Ana, and early in January the entire country
gathered under his banners, leaving only the City of Mexico as the Empire. Iturbide was
banished from the country by Congress and was granted a substantial pension. He went to
England and wrote a number of letters to the Government, warning them of attempts to be
made to restore the Spanish rule in Mexico. Congress, instead of accepting his information,
pronounced him a traitor, and placed the penalty of death should he return to Mexico.
Iturbide was ignorant of this decree and returned to the country, landing at Spto la Marina,
a little town on the gulf coast, north of Tampico. He was arrested at once, condemned to
death, and shot July 19, 1824. On November 7, 1823, the second Congress, really the first
of the Republic, assembled in Mexico City, and adopted a constitution and form of govern-

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

ment very similar to that of the United States. General Gnadalupe Victoria was the first
president of Mexico that took the formal oath of office. From 1828 to 184G there were a
number of small revolutions and an attempt by the Spanish to regain the country. The
latter invasion was generally opposed by the people of Mexico, and met with complete
failure. It was followed by the recognition of the Republic of Mexico by Spain.

The next important event in the story of the city's history is connected with the war
between the United States and Mexico,
over the Independence of Texas. The his-
tory of the Mexican War is so well known
that it is not necessary to go into details.

The Expedition against the Mexican
Capital was under General Winfield Scott,
who landed at Vera Cruz, March 9, 1847,
and captured the city after a five days' bom-
bardment on March 27. He then started
on his march towards the Capital, and on
September 8th fought the battles of
Molino del Rey and Casa Mata, and on the
12th and 13th stormed the Castle of Chapul-
tepec, so gallantly defended by the cadets
of the Military Academy. General Scott
took possession of Belem and San Cosme,
entering the City of Mexico on September
15, 1847. A treaty of peace, called the
Treaty of Guadulupe Hidalgo, was con-
cluded on February 2, 1848, near the church
of Guadalupe.

After the war with the United States
the country was again thrown into interior
disturbances, and for two years, from 18f>3
to 1855, General Santa Ana was dictator.
On December 12, 1855, Comonfort was
elected President, commencing his admin-
istration with the enforcement of the laws
against the church. It was the beginning
of the effort to separate entirely the Church
and the State. Comonfort left Mexico in
1858, and Benito Juarez became the consti-
tutional President, but was compelled to
abandon the capital and leave the country.
During his absence, another Government
was in existence in the City of Mexico
under Felix Zuloaga, whose administra-
tion commenced a vigorous prosecution of

the War of the Reform, which extended over the entire country. He was bitterly opposed
by Juarez, who defeated him and entered the City of Mexico on January 11, 1861.

The story of the French invasion, which is the next chapter in the country's history, is
a long one, that would require a book the size of this to give only the most important
details. The excuse for th? invasion was the law passed by the Mexican Congress suspend-
ing payment on the bonds of the Republic held by foreigners, and an excessive claim made
by France for damages suffered by French subjects during the various wars.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

Vera Cruz was invaded by French, Spanish and English troops, and these countries
were represented by three Commissioners authorized to treat with the Mexican Government.
The questions of finance were successfully settled so far as the English and Spanish inter-
ested were concerned, and the troops of these countries were withdrawn. Mexico refusing
to pay the claim of France, the latter's troops were reinforced and advanced on the capital.

Corn Husks for Meat Markets.

Juarez abandoned Mexico City and the French soldiers entered it July 9, 1863. On the
following day an "Assembly of Notables" was called in the City of Mexico, and a declara-
tion made by that body to the effect that Mexico should be governed by an hereditary
Monarchy, under a Catholic Prince, and that the throne should be offered to Maximilian,
Archduke of Austria. Maximilian accepted the throne on two conditions: First, that he

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE. 43

should be elected by a popular vote in Mexico ; second, that the Emperor Napoleon would
give him military aid as long as it should be necessary. He arrived in the City of Mexico,
June 12, 1864, with his wife, Carlota, daughter of Leopold First, King of the Belgians. They
were crowned Emperor and Empress in the Cathedral of the City of Mexico. The Empire
was a dismal failure, especially as the United States did not look upon the occupation of
Mexico by France in a favorable manner. Secretary Seward wrote Napoleon a note that the
United States would not tolerate the establishment of an Empire in Mexico, based on
military support of a foreign country. Napoleon finally abandoned Maximilian and ordered
the evacuation by the French in November, 1866. As Maximilian had not secured the
support of either of the parties in Mexico, the collapse of the Empire was immediate.

During all this time President Juarez had been in the United States. Now, thinking the
time opportune, he left El Paso and advanced southward. General Miramon was sent out
to capture him, but was defeated at San Jacinto February 1,. 1867. In the meanwhile, Gen-
eral Porfirio Diaz captured Puebla, April 2d, after a siege of twenty-five days, and com-
menced siege to the City of Mexico. Queretaro was captured by General Escobedo, May
15th. Maximilian was captured while trying to escape from the city on the stony hill called
Cerro de las Campanas, and on the spot where he was captured, was executed, together
with his Generals Mirarnon and Mejia, at 7:00 o'clock on the morning of June 19, 1867.
Carlota returned to Europe and is still alive in Belgium. She is completely insane, and it
is said talks continually of the coming of Maximilian.

The City of Mexico surrendered to General Diaz, June 21st, and President Juarez entered
the capital July 26, 1867. From that time on there have only been slight revolutions. The
most notable occurred in Oaxaca, January 15th, 1876, during the Presidency of Lerdo. He
was forced to leave the country. General Porfirio Diaz entered the City of Mexico Novem-
ber 24, 1876, and was proclaimed President; on May 6, 1877, he was declared constitutional
President, in which office he remained until November 30, 1880. He was then succeeded by
General Manuel Gonzalez, who served one term. In J884, General Diaz was again elec-
ted President and has succeeded himself at each election since that time.

How well he has served his country can readily be seen by its prosperous condition at the
present time. From a state of ruin and poverty he has evolved one of the most prosperous
and best-managed Governments on the face of the globe. Under his administration, its
progress has been sure and certain. Notable public works have been inaugurated, and the
country stands on a firm financial basis. How well he is regarded by the foreign interests
in Mexico was demonstrated in November, 1899, when a great delegation, composed of the
representatives of nearly every railroad, banking hpuse and company in which foreign
capital was represented, marched through the streets to the National Palace and urged him
to accept the renomination for another term.

FACTS AND FIGURES ABOUT THE
REPUBLIC OF MEXICO.

EOGRAPHICAL. Mexico has the shape of a cornu-
copia, with its narrowest end tapering towards the
southwest, its convex and concave sides facing the
Pacific and the Atlantic Oceans, respectively, and its widest
end towards the north or the United States. Its greatest
width is 750 miles, and its narrowest point, at the isthmus
of Tehuantepec, is about 100 miles. It is bounded on the
north by the United States of America, on the southeast by
Guatemala and Belize, on the south and west by the Pacific
Ocean, and on the north and east by the Gulf of Mexico and
the Caribbean Sea. It has an area of 767,326 square miles.
Although Mexico lies entirely in the . North American Con-
tinent still it embodies about one-third of Central America,
which, geographically speaking, is the portion of North
America embraced between the Isthmus of Tehuantepec and
Panama.

2. PHYSICAL FEATURES. Mexico is a volcanic
country; its surface, rugged and mountainous. From a cur-
sory inspection it is easy to perceive that, at one time, the
entire svuface was upheaved by gigantic convulsions
of nature. It is traversed by two high chains of
mountains, one running along the Gulf of Mexico and
the other along the Pacific Ocean, between which lies
an enormous tableland, spreading almost from ocean
to gulf, and having an elevation ranging from 4,000
to 8,000 feet above the sea level. This great plateau is
crossed by several ridges, the most important of which
are the Cordilleras de Anahuac, which surrounds the
valleys of Mexico and Puebla. The heights of the

principal mountain peaks are as follows : Popocatepetl, 17,540 feet ; Orizaba, 17,362 feet ;
Toluca, 15,019 feet; Ixtaccihuatl, 16,076 feet ; Colima, 14,362 feet. All of these peaks
are extinct volcanoes. The principal gulfs are Mexico, California and Tehuantepec, the
first of which is the largest in the world. Mexico's harbors are now receiving attention
from the Government, and large sums of money are being spent in their improvement.
On the Pacific Coast the harbors are : Acapulco, Manzanillo and La Paz. On the gulf
coast the principal harbor is Tampico, which now permits steamships drawing twenty-
four feet of water to enter. Vera Cruz is an open roadstead, protected by artificial break-
waters, and nearly $10,000,000 has been spent in trying to make it a good port. The
most noteworthy bays are those of Guaymas, Santa Barbara, Topolobampo, in the Gulf
of California; Concepcion, La Paz and Mnleje, on the west coast of the same gulf; San
Quentin, Magdelena, and Amejas, on the Pacific Coast of Lower California, and San Bias

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

One of Mexico's Types.

and Valle de Banderas, on the coast of Tepic. The principal lake is Lake Chapala, a
beautiful body of water in the State of Jalisco. The most important rivers are, the
Rio Grande, flowing along the borders of Chihuahua, Coahuila and Tamaulipas to the
Gulf of Mexico, a total length of 1,500 miles ; the Lerma, flowing through the States of
Mexico, Guanajuato, Michoacan and Jalisco to the Pacific, 500 miles, and the Balsas, rising
in the central plateau, near the Valley of Mexico, and passing by the State of Puebla to the
southwest, where it enters the Pacific Ocean, 426 miles.

3. CLIMATE. By glancing at the map it will be noticed that Mexico, being inter-
sected by the Tropic of Cancer, and stretching across eighteen parallels of latitude, must,

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

from its position alone, necessarily enjoy a great diversity of climate, but from its peculiar
configuration, this feature is affected far more by the altitude of the land than by its
distance from the pole or the equator. This is especially true of the more fertile and
populous sections lying within the torrid zone, where three distinct climatic regions are
distinguished, not according to their horizontal but according to their vertical position.
Along the coast, at the same level, are the hot lands, with a mean temperature of 80
degrees Fahrenheit; at an altitude of from 3,000 to 5,000 feet, the temperate zone, which
includes practically all the central plateaus, with
a mean temperature of 62 to 70 degrees Fahren-
heit, varying not more than four to five
degrees during the season, thus making one of
the finest climates on the face of the globe,
where extremes of heat and cold are unknown ;
and the cold region from 7,000 feet above the
sea level upward, with a mean temperature of
from 59 to 63 degrees Fahrenheit. Most of the
grand central plateau is located in the latter
region. The climate of the temperate zone may
be best compared \\ith that of middle or south
Italy, and the skies are the same eternal blue.
The differences of climate, depending upon
the degrees of altitude, are so great in Mexico
that its vegetable products include almost all
that are to be found between the equator and
the polar circle. Snow rarely falls, even in the
highest valleys, and a slight snow fall remains
on the ground but a short time. The boundary
of perpetual snow is at the height of 12,460
feet. The year is divided into two seasons the
dry season, during which time there is no rain,
and -the rainy season, during which it rains
daily. The rains generally begin in June,
increase considerably in July, and end in
October, although this varies in different
regions, the rains lasting longer in those
nearer the sea than in the upland districts. As
a rule a heavy shower falls in the afternoon
from 2 to 5 o'clock. ' After the rain the sky
rapidly clears, and when the sun appears again
every trace of the rain vanishes after a short
time, especially on the plateaus, owing to the
extraordinary evaporation. The mornings dur-
ing the rainy season are regarded as the most
pleasant time of the year, as the atmosphere is
delightfully clear, and the air deliciously fresh.
As a whole, the Mexican climate, if not of the
most invigorating nature, is one of the most
delightful in the world.

A Dude of the Lower Classes.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

4. POPULATION. The population of Mexico, according to the census of 1900, is
13,569,482, which is divided among the States as follows:

100,910

Brought forward. .
Nuevo Leon

. 7,425,569
326,940

84,218
280,899
65,026
363,216
327 004

947,910

Pnahnilji

Puebla

1 024 446

228 489

Chiapas

582 486

296 109

530 723

220 553

371 274

158 107

1 065 317

220 253

474 594

172 217

603 074

960 570

1 137 313

Yucatan

312,264
496 810

924 457

Zacatecas

935,849

Territory of Tepic
Territory of B C

149,677
47 082

161 697

Forward. . .

Total

. . 7,425.500

. 13,569,482

5. POLITICAL ORGANIZATION. Mexico is now organized, under the Constitu-
tion of February 5, 1857, with its several amendments, into a Federal Republic, composed
of twenty-seven States, two territories, and a federal district, and the political organization
is almost identical with that of the United
States. The powers of the Federal Govern-
ment are divided into three branches : Legis-
lative, executive and judicial. The legislative
is composed of a House of Representatives
and a Senate. The members of the House are
elected for two years and the Senators for four
( salary, $3,000 yearly), the Senate being
renewed by half every two years. Representa-
tives are elected by the suffrage of all male
adults, at the rate of one member for every
40,000 inhabitants. The qualifications requisite
are to be at least twenty-five years of age and
a resident of the State ; and for Senators thirty
years. The executive is a president
(salary, $50,000 yearly), elected by the electors
popularly chosen, who holds his* office for four
years, without any provision forbidding his re-
election. He has a cabinet of seven members
(salary, $15,000 yearly, each), namely: Secre-
tary of Foreign Affairs, of the Interior, of
Justice and Public Instruction, of Fomento.
which means promotion of Public Improve-
ments, and includes public lands, patents, and
colonization, of Communications and Public
Works ; of the Treasury, and of War and Navy.
No vice-president is elected, but by an amend-
ment to the Constitution, promulgated April
24, 1896, in the permanent or temporary disability of the President, not caused by resigna-
tion or by leave, the Secretary of State, and after him the Secretary of the Interior, shall
exercise that office until Congress elects a President pro tempore. In case of resignation,
Congress, accepting it, elects a President pro tempore, and in case of leave the President
recommends to Congress the person to fill that office.

Chairs for Sale.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

The Federal Judiciary is composed of a Supreme Court, consisting of eleven Judges,
four substitutes, one Attorney-General, and one Fiscal, chosen for six years; three
Circuit and thirty-two District Courts.

The States are independent in their domestic affairs, and their governments are simi-
larly divided into three branches: The Governor, the Legislature and the State Judiciary.

While Mexico was organized as a Republic and its Constitution was framed upon that
of the United States, at the same time, since its adoption, the tendency has been towards
centralization, and to the increasing of the powers given by the Constitution to the Federal
Government.

0. RELIGION. The prevailing religion of the country is the Roman Catholic Church,
or, as it is established in Mexico, the Mexican Church. There is no connection between
Church and State, and the Constitution grants the free exercise of all religions. The Roman
Catholic Church was established in Mexico
in 1617,, and ten years later Pope Clement
VII erected Mexico into a bishopric. From
the very first, the prelates of New Spain exer-
cised a very great influence in the civil
affairs of the country, winning the goodwill
of the natives and performing many of the
functions of government. From the conquest
to the time of the viceroys, the ecclesiastical
power was taking a deep root in the fertile
soil of Mexico, to have there a most aston-
ishing growth for three centuries and more.
The most prominent monuments to greet- the
eyes of the tourists in. Mexico at the present
time are those relating to its ecclesiastical
history. The influence of the religious
orders, which were established from time to
time, also left their impress upon the life
of the nation. First among them verc the
Franciscans (introduced in 1524) who
assumed control of the missions to the
Indians, and who had a wonderful power
over their charges. They were largely instru-
mental in holding the country to the power
of Spain by the influence which they were
enabled to bring to bear on the natives. In
1526 the Dominicans were established, and,
with their arrival, came the Inquisition,
which was intimately connected with their,
order. Their monastery, which stood on the
spot now occupied by the medical school in
the City of Mexico, was the headquarters of In the Country.

Don Pedro Moya de Contras, first Inqi.iisitor-

General of Mexico. A "brascro" or "qucmadcro" (bi irmn g place) was erected upon what
is now the western end of the Alameda, but was then the western limits of the city, the
edge of a swamp, over vihich the ashes of victims might be strewn. The Inquisition
was overthrown in 1S15. In 1572 the Jesuits arrived, and to that order, belongs the honor
of having fostered education in the country. As Mexico continued to grow in w r ealth and
influence during the 300 years that followed the Conquest, the power of the Catholic

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

Indians in Town for a Holiday.

Church was likewise increased. The wealth accumulated \\as used for the purpose of
supporting the conservative governments, whose policy was to keep the statu quo, and was,
therefore, opposed to progress of any kind. The church became a very prominent factor in
politics, and could upset and establish governments at its pleasure, which resulted in the
many revolutions which were constantly breaking out. It was, therefore, thought necessary
to destroy the political power of the church before peace could be established and main-
tained, and that work was done by what was called the laws of reform, issued in 1859,
w r hich established a complete independence between the church and the State, and were
intended to completely end the domination of the Catholic Church in civil affairs in
Mexico; the church property was confiscated, so that even the houses of worship became
the property of the Government; all convents of friars and nuns were closed, all religious
ceremonies such as processions and wearing a distinctive dress were ordered to be
confined to the interior of the edifices ; the cemeteries were secularized, and marriage made
exclusively a civil contract. No religious instruction or ceremony is allowed in the public
schools, and never is a prayer offered as the part of a program of a national celebration.
Since 1891 the church in Mexico is divided into six archbishoprics, twenty-one bishoprics
and the Vicarate of Lower California.

Protestantism. After the laws of reform had been placed in effect, a movement
was started in Mexico toward the formation of a Christian Church, distinct from the
Roman Catholic, and in 1869, largely through the assistance of President Juarez and

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

Tinzvarc.

Honorable Malhis Romero, Secretary of the Treasury, the
Mexican National Church \\as established. Rev. Henr>
C. Riley, ordained a bishop by the Protestant Episcopal
Church of the United States, was placed in charge of this
work. The main church of the Franciscan Convent, one
of the finest buildings of the city, and which could not have
been duplicated but for a very large amount of money, was
sold by the Government to Dr. Riley for $4,000. Another
part of the building \vas sold at the same time to the
Rev. John W. Butler, D.D., who established the Mexican
Episcopal Church South therein. Since their formation the
various Protestant missions have had a great many ups and
downs which cannot be enumerated here. It is sufficient
to say that, at present, the following Protestant denomina-
tions have mission work in Mexico: The Protestant
Episcopal Church, the Methodist Episcopal Church, the
Mexican Episcopal Church South, the Presbyterian, the
Baptists, North and South, and American Friends.

7. LANGUAGE. Spanish is the language of the coun-
try, and most of the natives speak it. A small portion of
them speak a language of their own. About 150 different
Indian languages are known to have been spoken by the

Mexican Indians. The Spanish monks accompanying the Conquerors completed grammars,
and even dictionaries, of some of these languages, but the Indians, falling into a semi-
barbarous state after the Conquest, having lost their civilization and literature, their
languages have either disappeared completely or become very primitive. The chief Indian
languages spoken in Mexico at the present time are as follows : Nahantl or Mexican
(Aztec), Mixtec, Zopotec, Otomi and Tarascan.

There is a marked difference between Spanish as spoken
or pure Spanish. Many words have been taken from
Indian languages, such as names of places, mountains, fruits,
flowers, trees, animals, articles of household furniture, and
of household and field use. These words have been softened
by transfer and are in every-day use by the Mexican people.
Other differences are noted in the pronunciation, "11" being
sounded in Mexico as "y" ; the "z" and "c" as "s" instead of
"th." As a matter of fact, the Spanish spoken in Mexico is
really softer and more pleasing than the harsh pronunciation
of the native-born Spaniard.

8. RACES IN MEXICO. The inhabitants of Mexico
are the descendants of the various tribes found there during
the Spanish conquest, the direct descendants of the con-
querors of Mexico and other European nations, a mixture of
the two, and a small percentage of native-born foreigners,
who have made that country their home. The proportion
of this population is about as follows: of European descent.
19 per cent.; native Indians, 43 per cent.; mixed races, 3S
per cent.

The Mexican Indians are, on the whole, a hard-working,
sober, moral and enduring race, and, when educated, pro-
duce very distinguished men. Some of the most prominent

Mexico and the Castilian

Street Brooms.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

men in Mexico, like Juarez as a statesman, and Morelos as a soldier, were pure-blooded
Indians, and there is no prejudice against their race in Mexico, and so, when they are
educated, they are accepted in marriage among the highest families of pure Spanish
blood. It is a regretable fact that the Indian population has been decreasing since the
beginning of the present century, while the mixed race has been constantly on the increase.

9. INDUSTRIES. The principal industries in -Mexico are agriculture, mining and
manufacturing, and all three branches are conducted under the most favorable circum-
stances.

Agriculture. This industry engages the attention of practically one-half of the popu-
lation, and, on account of the varieties of the climate, produces nearly every known variety
of flora and fauna. In order to properly appreciate the
question of agriculture in Mexico, it is necessary to
understand the relations of altitude to the climate,
as the products that are raised depend entirely upon
these considerations. Take, for example, the trip
from Puebla to Oaxaca, where, in a few hours' time
the road descends from an altitude of 7,000 feet to
one of 1,750 feet. At the commencement are found
all the products of northern and western sections of
the United States, and at the end of the trip the
most luxuriant tropical growth. The principal crops
cultivated in Mexico are as follows :

On the plateaus and mountain sides, corn, beans
and wheat; in the tropics, coffee, sugar-cane, cotton,
cocoa, indigo, vanilla, tobacco, various medicinal
plants, and all varieties of fruit. Two products which
are indigenous to Mexico are the pulque and henequen
plants. The former grows wild on the uplands, but is
largely cultivated in the States of Mexico, Puebla and
Hidalgo. The plant is cultivated in fields, each acre
containing from 360 to 680 plants. From it is ex-
tracted, by means of a rude siphon, made either from
a gourd or a calabash, pulque, which is largely con-
sumed by the natives as an intoxicating beverage.
When first extracted the liquid is like green water in
appearance and taste, but rapidly commences to fer-
ment, and in a short time has the appearance of thin
milk. In three days from the time it is drawn from the
plant the fermentation has advanced to such an ex-
tent that the pulque is spoiled. There have been
many attempts made to find a preservative for the
liquid, but, as yet, the search has been in vain. The
pulque plant takes about eight years to mature, and
produces for about five months, during which time
each plant is supposed to yield from 125 to 160 gal-
lons of liquid. From a plant very similar to the one

from which pulque is extracted is made the stronger alcoholic drinks, tequila and mezcal,
both of which are used extensively by the native population.

To the production of henequen is largely due the prosperity of the State of Yucatan,
where this industry is carried on extensively. From henequen is produced the fiber
known as sisal hemp, or, in the United States, as henequen hemp, from which is made all

Your Daily Bread.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

varieties of nianila rope, twine, etc. The plant requires very little cultivation and the
separation and cleaning of the fiber is effected very cheaply.

Mining. Humboldt gave as his opinion that Mexico would be "the treasure house
of the world," and this prediction is fast becoming true, owing to the large sums of
money which have been spent in recent years in the exploitation of Mexican mines. Not-
withstanding the fact that the decline in
the price of silver since IS'.HJ has had a
serious effect upon the mining of this
metal, in 1901 Mexico's production was a
little over one-third of the entire silver
production of the world. The principal
points in the Republic where silver is
produced are Pachuca, Zacatecas, Guana-
juato, Parral and Catorce.

The principal minerals, in addition to
silver, are copper in the States of Guana-
juato, Chihuahua, Sonora, Guerrero,
Michoacan and elsewhere ; iron in immense
masses in Nuevo Leon, Michoacan, Jalisco
and in Durango where the Cierro del
Mercado is a solid mountain of magnetic
iron ore ; lead in Oaxaca ; tin in Michoa-
can and Jalisco ; coal at various points,
marble, alabaster, gypsum, rock salt and
bismuth in great abundance throughout
the Republic. Recently there have been
some extensive discoveries of coal in the
States of Sonora, Tamaulipas and
Oaxaca. Oil is found in considerable
quantities in the States of Tamaulipas
and Tabasco, and in 1902 a number of
companies were formed for the purpose
of boring for oil in the Valley of Mexico,
where it has long been known ' to exist
in a very refined state.

Manufacturing. The manufacturing
industries of Mexico have taken wonder-
ful strides during the past ten years,
owing principally to the amount of capital
which has been invested and the high rate
of exchange which has acted as a pro-
tective tariff against the importation of
foreign goods. The two branches of
manufacturing which have made the An Astec Daughter.

greatest progress during this time ^are of

cotton and iron. The first-named industry has reached a wonderful development. At
the present time the factories are producing all the coarser grades of cotton goods that
are consumed in the country, and are exporting a large quantity of this article.

The manufactures of iron and steel have received a great impetus, especially in the
States of Nuevo Leon, Durango and Chihuahua. In Monterey extensive steel works are
under construction which represent an expenditure of $10,000,000. Progress has also

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

A Mexico City Business House Decorated for a Holiday.

been made in other lines, and there are about 2,000 companies and individuals engaged
in manufacturing the following articles: Wool, soap, paper, porcelain, tobacco, paints,
sugar, candles, matches, hats, shoes, hardware and cutlery, whisky, beer, furniture, etc.
In addition to the large manufacturing plants there .is a considerable proportion of
the population employed in manufacturing native goods on a smaller scale, and in the
same difficult and procrastinating method followed by their ancestors. Among these may
be named the articles of pottery, which are made principally in Guadalajara, Zacatecas,
Guanajuato and Puebla; the spinning of wool into blankets or zarapes, which are used
as cloaks by the natives and as rugs and decoratioms by the wealthier classes ; baskets and
mats from the tule reed found in the lake regions, brooms and brushes from zacaton or

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

couch grass, nets, hammocks and ropes from the henequen grown in Yucatan; the dainty
drawn work which is principally made in Agiia^-CaHentes, Celaya and Silao ; the carved
leather work and huge Mexican saddles, richly adorned with precious metals ; the large-
brimmed and high-crowned hats with their cord ajid tassel of silver or gold ; the old
Aztec feather work, and the sweetmeats which are made in every section of the country,

Cortez's House at Coyoacan.

*-.>

AROUND THE PLAZA DE LA
CONSTITUCION.

HE Plaza Mayor dc la Constitution, commonly known as
the Zccalo, the most interesting and characteristic spot in
the Valley of Mexico, is directly' in the center of the city.
It has been for centuries the soul of the capital. Sur-
rounded by the principal public buildings, it has been the
scene of some of the most important events in Mexican
history. Here the errant Aztecs encountered in 1312 the
symbolic sign of promise, built their first temple and huts
and from 1483-87 the colossal Pantheon (Teocalli), where
on great festivals thousands of Indians danced to the melan-
cholic sound of the drum and the rattle, and thousands of
prisoners were cruelly sacrificed in religious fanaticism.
Here the Aztecs defended themselves heroically in 1520
and 1522 against the Spanish conquerors, who in 1522
erected here the first houses of the modern City. The
memory of the Conquest was celebrated here for centuries
on the 13th of August by the "parade of the banner"
(procession del penclon), in which the "alferez mayor"
carried the standard of Cortez, followed by the Viceroy,
the council and the nobility on horseback. Sixty-two Vice-
roys made their ceremonial entrance to the palace and
governed from here one of the largest empires of the world.
Over this square passed on the morning of April 11, 1649,
the procession of the Inquisition with the green cross and

the unfortunate prisoners to the "Plaza del ]'olador," and in the afternoon the thirteen
condemned proceeded on mules to the Christian sacrificial stone of San Diego, upon which
the funeral pyre awaited them. On September 27, 1821, Agustin Iturbide appeared here
at the head of the victorious army and was cheered as "liberator." He was proclaimed
on the night of May 18, 1822, "emperor" in this Square and with his wife, on July 21st,
of the same year, solemnly entered the Cathedral to receive his thorny crown. Many
another "liberator" and usurper has followed him in the last decades. In 1847 floated
the starry banner from the National Palace and in 1863 the tricolor of the "Grande Nation."
On June 12, 1864. the second emperor, the Archduke Maximilian, was here heartily wel-
comed, and on February 13, 1867, received here from many of his adherents the last
farewell. On June 21, of the same year. General Porfirio Diaz was greeted the first time
as hero, and again on November 23, 1875, after the successful revolution of Tuxtepec.
In November, 1899, a great delegation, composed of the representatives of nearly every
railroad, banking house and company in which foreign capital was represented in the
Republic marched through the Plaza to the National Palace to urge General Diaz to accept
the renomination for another term as President.

Standing in the center of the Plaza the sight is a beautiful one. Directly in front are
the towers of the great Cathedral. The east one marks the western boundary of the Main
Temple, dedicated to Huitzilopochtli and Tlaloc. To the right stands the National Palace.

The Organ in the Cathedral.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

which was formerly the new house of Moctezuma. At the opposite end from the Cathedral,
now occupied by the City Hall, was the Palace of the Commander-in-Chief of the Aztecs.
To the left, where the Portalcs dc Mcrcadercs arc, stood the Indian dancing school, the
Cuicoyan, and directly across from the Cathedral arose the extensive palace of Moctezuma,
now partially occupied by the National Pawn Shop. An abundance of notable historical
recollections encompass this spot, which in the course of centuries has experienced telling
changes.

When the Aztec Temples were destroyed, and the city rebuilt in 1522, an open space
was left where the Plaza now stands. A number of small buildings were erected here, and
the open portion used as. a market. In 1611 the market was removed and the small buildings
burned. They were afterwards rebuilt, and in 1692 were destroyed by a mob.

The Viceroy, Count Conde de Revillagigedo, in 1789, was responsible for the splendor of
the present Plaza. The hucksters and peddlers were driven away, the open ditches were

The Zocalo, Showing the Portalcs.

covered, and in 1830 the foundation was made for the Equestrian Statue of Charles the
Fourth, that now stands at the entrance of the Paseo de la Reforma. The Plaza is often
called the Zocalo because a foundation (Zocalo) was laid there forty years ago for a monu-
ment to Mexican Independence; but the monument never got further than its foundation.
Surrounding the Zocalo is a garden which is the favorite resort of the lower classes. A
military band plays here several times during the week.

The Plaza is best seen on the 16th of September, the great National holiday, or
during one of the religious festivals. All Mexico seems to have turned out, the buildings
are ablaze with bunting and electric lights, military bands are playing, and on all sides
stalls are erected in which are sold articles of native manufacture.

From the Plaza Mayor, street cars start for all parts of the city and the suburbs, and
the passenger remaining in the car will be brought here again on the return trip.

THE CATHEDRAL. Naturally, the first building to which the sightseer turns is the
great Cathedral. Its two prodigious towers and elegant dome arise above the green of the
Plaza, a most inspiring sight. The Cathedral, the Holy Metropolitan Church of Mexico, is

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

Eating Luncheon,

built upon the site of the Great Aztec Temple that the Spaniards destroyed when the city
was conquered in 1521. Upon the partition of the city this site was set apart, that upon
it should be built a Christian church : and tbe church, a very small one, actually was built
previous to the year 1524. It was replaced in a few years by the first cathedral, a small
edifice, in fact, but spoken of with great admiration by contemporaneous chroniclers.
Philip IL, desiring to place here a larger and more stately structure, sought and obtained
permission from Clement VII., to destroy this first cathedral that the second might be
begun. The first stone of the existing building was laid in the year 1573, but in order
to preserve the older structure until the new one should be sufficiently advanced for services
to be held in it, the new cathedral was begun a little to the northward of the old one.
The site of the first Christian church in the City of Mexico, therefore, is the open space
(atrium) in front of the present cathedral. The more important dates in the history of
the existing building are: 1573, cornerstone laid; 1615, foundations and part of the walls
completed ; 1623, sacristy under roof ; 1626, first service held in sacristy where services
were held until 1641; 1629-1635, work stopped by the great inundation of that period;
February 2, 1656, dedication the interior of the building still being incomplete ; December 22,
1667, final dedication. Completion of the towers, 1791. Between the years 1573 and 1667
the cost of the work was $1,752,000. With the cost of the towers ($190,000), of work
upon the interior, of the bells, the entire cost of the work was about $2,000,000.

The fagade, at the side of which rise the towers, is divided by massive buttresses into
three parts of various orders of architecture. The lower part is genuine Doric, the upper

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

Starting Point for Many of the Cars in the Zocalo.

of a somewhat extravagant Ionic, the third part in Corinthian style. The basso-relievos,
statues, friezes, bases and capitals are of white marble, which with the combination of gray
stone makes a very pleasing color effect.

The towers, which are 203 feet 6 inches high, are in two divisions, the lower Doric and
the upper Ionic, each capped by a bell-shaped dome. The cornices of the towers are sur-
mounted by ballustrades of carved stone, upon which, at regular intervals, are carved
stone vases. The cornices immediately beneath the domes of the towers serve as pedestals
for colossal stone statues of the Doctors of the Church and the Patriarchs of the Monastic
Orders; and those of the central portal, occupied by the clock, are pedestals for statues of
the Theological Virtues with their attributes. Beneath the clock are blazoned the arms of
the Republic a modern innovation that emphasized, at that time, the controlling attitude
of the State toward the Church. Above the whole, as seen from the southern side of the
Plaza, rises the dome, surmounted by its slender, graceful lantern, the work of the architect
Tolsa. The architect of the work as a whole was Alonzo Perez Castaneda.

In the interior of the towers hang a mimber of fine bells. In the west tower is the
largest of these, "Santa Maria de Guadalupe," nearly seventeen feet in height, and worth
$10,000. It was placed in position in 1792.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

A Fine Do or -way.

In size, the Cathedral is one of the largest churches on the western continent. It stands,
with its various annexes, upon a wide platform, 460 feet broad, which is partially enclosed
by an iron railing. Exclusive of its very thick walls, the building measures 387 feet from
north to south ; 177 feet from east to west, and has an interior height of 179 feet.

INTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL. The interior forms a Latin cross, which con-
tains five naves. In the center are two rows of eight pillars, which support the Roman
vaulted roof, above which rises a beautiful octagonal dome by Manuel Tolsa. There
are fourteen chapels in the Cathedral, seven in each aisle, dedicated to the various saints,

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

and each decorated in a different style. These chapels are enclosed with iron gratings.
Entering the Cathedral by the left portal of the fagade one gets a splendid idea of the
interior. The contrast of the earnest gray with the cheerful white is extremely agreeable.
Back of the second pair of pillars the choir commences. Here rises the Altar del Perdon,
in which are found two very valuable pictures. The lower one represents Mary offering
the Christ-child for adoration, and the upper and smaller one is known as "La Sumaya."
The entrance to the choir is found before the fourth pair of columns, and is enclosed within
a high railing of dark carved wood. Two immense organs, also in carved wood, rise almost
to the arches of the room. Above the entrance to the choir are the three crosses of Christ
and the Malefactors. The background of the choir is adorned by a large oil painting,
representing "Trinity."

Between the seventh and eighth altars arises from a terrace the conspicuous Main Altar,
a work that is decidedly inferior to the other specimens of architecture in the building. The

Unsupported Arch in the School of Medicine at Mexico City.

tabernacle consists of three principal divisions ; a high base of four steps with large, gayly-
colored figures of Saints arid Apostles, a round Temple, with eight green and gilded col-
umns, and a second and smaller Temple. Upon the gallery of the first arise other statues
of Saints; under the upper one stands Christ; above, the Assumption of Mary.

Many of the chapels are worthy of a careful inspection. On the west side, opposite the
tabernacle is San Felipe Jesus, consecrated to the Mexican martyr of the same name. Here
rest the remains of the first Mexican Emperor, Agustin de Iturbide, and in an urn the heart
of General Bustamente. Underneath the floor a number of notable persons, archbishops,
etc., are buried.

At the northern extremity of the Cathedral, in the center, is the Altar of the Kings, a
mass of gold and gilt, and the most imposing in the building. Its top reaches to the arches
of the roof. It was modeled after the one in the Cathedral of Seville, and is by the same
artist richly ornamented in Renaissance style. Two pictures are particularly fine. They
are in the center ; the larger is "The Adoration of the Kings," and the smaller, "The
Assumption of the Virgin." Beneath the Altar of the Kings are buried the heads of the
patriots Hidalgo, Allende, Aldama and Jimenez. The first arch of the eastern nave forms

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

the entrance to the Sacristy, where there are some magnificent pictures, which entirely cover
its walls. "The Entry into Jerusalem"; "The Catholic Church and the Assumption," by
Juan Correa ; "The Triumph of Sacrament" ; "Immaculate Conception" and "The Glory
of St. Michael," by Villalpando. In the meeting-room is a "hast Supper and Triumph
of Faith," by Alcibar, and a collection of portraits of all the Archbishops of Mexico by
various artists. In the Chapter House, near the Chapel, are some of the most valuable
paintings in Mexico, among them the "Holy Family" by Murillo, "The Virgin of Bethle-
hem," a Virgin by Cortona, and another by an unknown artist representing John of Austria
imploring the Virgin at the battle of Lepanto.

THE SAGRARIO METROPOLITANO adjoins the Cathedral on the east side, and Is
really a part of the main structure and opens into it. The present church was built about

A Charro.

the middle of the eighteenth century, on the site of the first parish church of the Indians of
Mexico. The foundation was laid in 1749, and the dedication took place in 1768. The very
intricate carvings of the fagade are in striking contrast to the Cathedral adjoining it.

The interior forms a Greek cross, and makes with its high white columns, the stately
dome and the abundance of light, a cheerful and elevating impression. In the middle arise
four independent pillars, consisting, like those of the Cathedral, of fluted Doric half-columns
which support the octagonal dome. In the corners of the cross are four chapels. The main
altar is of wood, of harmonious proportions and decorated in excellent taste. There are
twelve minor altars, many of which have been reduced to an unsatisfactory condition by
modern renovation. Upon those which have been preserved intact are to be observed a
number of paintings by leading Mexican artists. In the baptistry is a fine fresco by. the

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

Chamber of Deputies, or Congressional Hall of Mexico.

master Jose Gines de Aguirre the first professor sent from Spain to take charge of the
Academy of San Carlos representing the Baptisms of Jesus, Constantine, Saint Augustine
and San Felipe de Jesus. Here also is a fine picture of the Murillo school, "St. John the
Baptist in the Desert."

THE NATIONAL PALACE. On the east side of the Plaza Mayor is the Capitol of
the Republic of Mexico, occupying an entire block. The fagade, with its two square-
cornered towers, the embattled roof and the iron gratings before the windows, reminds one
more of a prison or barracks than of a palace. The Palace is a relic of the days of Cortez,
as his fortress-like house was built on this spot. It was bought of his heirs for $35,000, and
in 1692 was entirely destroyed by the great riot that swept across the Plaza Mayor. The
present building was begun in 1692, and has been added to until it has grown to its present
great size. It extends over the entire side of the Plaza and has a frontage of 675 feet,
extending down the side streets proportionately, the whole surrounding a number of large

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

patios or courts, about which are located the official residence and state rooms of the Presi-
dent, the different departments of the Federal Government, Senate chamber, headquarters of
the army, general post-office, etc.

Three stately entrances lead from the square into the interior. They are guarded by a
detail of soldiers, and one would imagine he was entering a fortress. /Above the central
doorway is the clock which it was said was exiled froril a Spanish village for having caused
great alarm by striking of its own accord. ^Entering through the center door, the central
patio is reached. It is a square of 131 feet on each side surrounded by forty arches in each
of the two stories. At the left from the central portal is the broad main staircase. On the
other side is the entrance to the offices of the Governor of the Palace, where permits are
secured for the admission to the President's rooms in the National Palace. When per-
mission is given to see the National Palace, an officer or employee is generally sent to

A Corner Pulque Shop.

show the different points of interest. One of the most noted rooms to be seen is the Hall
of the Ambassadors, an apartment of regal dimensions and adornment. It extends almost
the entire length of the Palace front, the immense windows looking out upon the Plaza.
It is here that the President receives the representatives of Foreign Governments formally,
when they present their credentials. At the south end is a platform with the chairs in
half circle for the President and his Secretary. The walls are. hung with pictures. On the
east wall are nine large portraits in oil : George Washington, the Mexican President Benito
Arista, Mariano Matamoros, Mariano Mina, President Porfirio Diaz, President Benito Juarez,
Emperor Agustin de Iturbide, General Vicente Guerrero and Jose Morelos. Adjoining this
room is the Sala de la Constitucion, called after a large oil painting on the west wall,
"Allegory of the Constitution of 1857."

Over the main gateway of the Palace hangs the Liberty Bell of Mexico, which was origi-
nally rung by Hidalgo to call the people to arms for the cause of Independence, in 1810. In

78 MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

1896 it was removed from Dolores Hidalgo to the National Palace, and on the night of the
15th of September of that year rang out again as it first did for Liberty and Independence.
Its removal from Dolores to Mexico was in the nature of a triumphal march. Hundreds of
thousands of people gathered to see the remarkable procession, which was attended by all
the pomp and circumstance of state.

Every year on the night of the* 15th of September the bell is rung by the President
of the Republic. The square is a mass of humanity, the surrounding buildings lighted by
thousands of electric lights, the Cathedral dark. At 11 :30 the President appears on

Monument in the Circle of Mexico's Illustrious Dead at Dolores Cemetery, Mexico City.

the platform underneath the bell. A great cheer goes up from the masses as he pulls
the bell cord and pronounces the Grito, "Viva Mexico, Viva La Libertad!" At that moment
every bell in the Cathedral's tower starts its melodious clanging, the roofs and towers
of the great building blaze with thousands of incandescent lights, the people take up the
cry and the Grito is pronounced a thousand times. It is an indescribable scene, and one
never to be forgotten. Of all the occurrences that take place in the Republic, none compares
with this ringing of the Liberty Bell on the night of September 15th of each year.

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. Half a square east of the Cathedral, and just in the rear
of the National Palace is the National Museum. The Museum is open as follows: All
departments on Sunday from 9 A. M. to 12 M. ; departments of Archaeology, Monoliths and
Ceramics daily except Saturday from 10 A. M. to 12 M. ; National History, Tuesdays and

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

Thursdays from 10 A. M. to 12 M.; Natural History, all rooms on third floor Mondays,
Wednesdays and Fridays from 10, -A. M. to 12 M. ; Comparative Anatomy, Zoology and
Botany, Tuesdays and Thursdays from 10 'A. M. to 12 M. All departments are closed on
Saturdays. In order to carry photographic cameras into the building a permit from the
Director is required. The present building has been occupied since 1865, and since that
time has been greatly improved. In 1885 the great monolith, known as the Aztec calendar-
stone, was removed from the walls of the Cathedral to the Museum, where it can be seen
at present. In 1887, President Diaz presided over the inauguration of the Grand Hall of
Monoliths, the finest collection in the world.

The Museum contains many examples of the prehistoric races of the country, as well
as some fine mementos of Maximilian. It is divided into three departments, viz. : Arch-

Chac-Mool.

a'ology, History of Mexico and Natural History. On the ground floor is found the
first of these departments, divided into two independent sections ; the Grand Hall of Mono-
liths, and the section of Ceramics and Reproductions.

HALL OF MONOLITHS. On entering the building the visitor can see directly in
front of him the Hall of the Monoliths. The specimens here exhibited are all original, and
have been brought from different places in the Republic, either from excavations or from
ruins; and in some cases they are the gift of private parties. There are 360 specimens-
arranged on pedestals and large shelves. Turning to the left on entering the hall, the most
noteworthy are as follows :

No. 83. Coatlicue, "the one with the skirt of snakes," the Goddess of the Dead, the
Genius of the Florists.

No. 275. Colossal Plead of Snake, with protruding tongue and eagle claw, of basalt, 2.85
feet high, 2.89 feet broad, 4.90 feet long, partially destroyed, found in garden before the
Cathedral of Mexico.

" pam>ms

Portrait of Cortes.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

No. 47. Fragment of bas-relief of red porphyry. It represents a man half-kneeling. It
shows signs of a beautiful crest of plumes. Under the arm the image of the Sun is seen,
and hanging therefrom is a most beautiful symbol. According to Chavero, it is a repre-
sentation of Mixcoatl.

No. 276. Pyramidally coiled snake, with eagle claws and other ornaments, of basalt
No. 279. Ornamental column of basalt, from Tula, consisting of three parts, joined by
socket and binding pin.

The Aztec Calendar Stone.

No. 84. In the center is a colossal idol of gray basalt, 8^ feet high, 5 feet broad, found
in the Main Square of Mexico on August 13, 1790. It represents Coatlicue, the Goddess
of Fertility, in a female monster of two faces, with the head of a snake, the teeth of a tiger
and protruding tongue. The bosom is covered with the hands of sacrificial victims, the
girdle with two skulls ; each arm is covered with four eagle claws, and ends in a snake
with protruding tongue; the skirt is woven with snakes, the legs are feathered and the
feet are claws.

Nos. 281 to 283. Three stone pieces, brought from Tula, representing colossal human
legs. It has been conjectured that these are the lower part of gigantic caryatides.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

No. 56. A representation of the God of Fire, called Chac-Mool, found in 1874 in Yuca-
tan. It represents a man half-reclining, with his knees raised, holding in his hands a disk-
like vessel, which rests upon his stomach. On the head he wears a kind of cap, with ear-
pieces. The frontlet of the same is formed by 120 octagonal stones, representing the days
of the year. The arms are adorned with three bracelets. There has been a great deal of
controversy in regard to this statue. Chavero advances the suggestion that the figure
represents the God of Fire, and that the disk held in his hand is the emblem of the Sun.

No. 1. Directly in front of the entrance stands the famous monument known as the
Calendar Stone, which has become the symbol of Aztec civilization. It is a great irregular

S9-3

The Sacrificial Stone.

monolith, nearly three feet thick, twelve and a half feet in diameter, and weighs nearly
60,000 pounds. It was first discovered in the middle of the sixteenth century, but was
buried and again found on December 17, 1790, in the main square, 219 feet west of the
central portal of the National Palace. It is one of the finest and most interesting monu-
ments of Aztec art, and demonstrates artistic taste and geometrical calculation. There
have been many ideas regarding the use of this stone, and modern archaeologists have come
to the conclusion that it was used more for a sacrificial stone than a real calendar. Chavero
declares it to be the Stone of the Sun, and that the heart receptive was inaugurated with
the sacrifice of 700 prisoners in 1481. Prince Axayacatl alone killed so many prisoners
that he fainted away and died soon from over-exertion. The traditionary story of the
stone is that it was taken from the ancient quarries near Coyoacan and dragged over the
causeway to the wall of the Teocalli, in 1478.

No. 46. Continuing around the hall, the next idol of interest is called Mixcoatl, of

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

bastalic lava, 4.75 feet long, 1.96 feet broad and high, found in Tlaxcala. It is similar to
the representation of Chac-Mool and is a reclining man, holding in his hand a disk.

No. 268. The commemorative slab of the foundation of the great Temple of the Aztecs.

No. 87. Chalchihuitlicue, "the jewel-skirted," the Water Goddess. A fine sculpture in
brown stone.

No. 49. The Tnxpan Monolith. (From the State of Vera Cruz.) This most beautiful
alto-relievo, sculptured on this remarkable stone, represents the setting Sun, Tzontemoc
(the one who dived headlong). The ensemble is most interesting.

No. 53. Tlalteuctli, the God of Earth.

No. 50. Stone Cylinder (sculptured on one of its bases and on its lateral face). The
relievo on its base is the representation of Tzontemoc. the setting Sun. This relievo may be

FTCI

Maxim ilian's Carriage.

compared with the one under No. 49. This specimen is most remarkable. It has been
supposed that the monolith was a cuauhxicalli, or a vase destined to contain the hearts
of the sacrificed human victims.

No. 193. A stone vase beautifully wrought. On the lateral surface it has a most
remarkable ornament of interlaced bars and fillets.

No. 166. Woman Stone Idol, in two fragments, with some remains of paint. This is
a remarkable specimen of Indian statuary.

No. 312. On the west wall is an interesting relief of trachytic tuff, about 6 1-3 feet high,
with the famous "Cross of Palenque." Upon a tiger head stands a cruciform tree, the
Tonacaquahuitl, or tree of life, ornamented with flowers, in the upper branches of which
rests the beautiful bird, Quetzal.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE. 87

No. 267. The celebrated Sacrificial Stone is in the center of the west end. In shape it
is similar to that of the Calendar Stone. It was found December 17, 1791, near the south-
west corner of the atrium of the Cathedral ; on November 10, 1824, it was transported to the
Museum of the University. According to Chavero it was used as the Sacrificial Stone for
the "Messenger of the Sun.'' From the center to the edge, and continuing over the rim,
is a deep canal, made after the Conquest in order to destroy the stone, but luckily the
work was stopped before serious damage had been done. On the stone are carvings which
were used to denote time, and around the rim are fifteen pairs of figures, each consisting
of a warrior, holding with his left hand a prisoner, or sacrifice, by a tuft of hair.

No. 171. Directly in front of the Sacrifice Stone is the colossal idol of Teotihuacan,
representing the Goddess of Moon and Water, carrying upon the head a square stone
with a little canal in the center. It is of porphyry, 10 feet high, 5 feet broad and weighs
nearly 40,000 pounds. It stood in a cave, at the foot of the Pyramid of the Moon, in
Teotihuacan, where it was discovered at the beginning of the nineteenth century.

No. 54. On the northern side wall is a colossal head of Idol of green stone, a master-
piece of Aztec sculpture. It is the God Tetec (time), and is the head of a man like that
on the Calendar Stone.

No. 26. Queltzalcoatl (Plumed snake). The God of the Air. Sculptured in a monolith
having a conic shape. The base of this specimen shows a figure very much like the one
representing the God of Earth, Tlalteuctli.

Nos. 261 to 265. Disks of the game of Ball, which was a great favorite among the
ancient inhabitants of Anahuac.

No. 286. This, one of the most noted stones in the Museum, is called the Sad Indian
(Indio Triste). It was found in 182S on the street now called by the same name. The
figure represents a stooping man, wearing a cap with ear pendants and a blanket around
his shoulders. Between the two folded hands and the feet is a hole to support a banner.
This is probably one of the two standard bearers of the Pyramid of Huitzilopochtli.

GALLERY OF CERAMICS AND REPRODUCTIONS. On coming from the Hall
of Monoliths, the visitor, en turning to the right, will reach the Gallery of Ceramics' and
Reproductions. In the vestibule are some originals of a'ntiquities found in Oaxaca, Chiapas
and Guatemala.

In the center is arranged a chromo-lithographic reproduction of the "Codice Porfirio
Diaz." The original picture is considered to be pre-Hispanic, and was brought from
Cuicatlan (State of Oaxaca), where a language differing from the Zapotec is spoken. This
"Codice" shows an ample chronology of six and a half centuries. As yet, its whole interpre-
tation has not been completed. The first room is known as the Colonnade Room,, in which
is a valuable collection of large photographs showing the ruins of Palenque, Mitla and
Yucatan. In the five central shelves the visitor can see rich and abundant collections of
native pottery, objects of worship, musical instruments and weapons.

In the small room to the south the walls are decorated with original native paintings,
on maguey paper and tanned leather. In the center is a small model in wood of the
Xochicalco Pyramid in the State of Morelos.

In the small room to the north, in the northeastern angle of the building, are two great
shelves in iron and glass which contain rich archaeological collections of clay and stone
articles.

The next room contains a number of photographs and drawings of ruins. The map of
the City of Mexico, No. 11, on maguey paper, said to have been presented by Moctezuma to
Cortez, hangs here. In the adjoining room the visitor will find specimens of native weapons,
shields, bows, arrows, slings, etc. The next room is occupied by the magnificent stage
coach of Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, of Austria, a gorgeous piece of work, splendid

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE. 89

with gilding and carving; also two other carriages, one of which belonged to President
Juarez and the other to Maximilian.

DEPARTMENT OF ARCHEOLOGY. The large room adjoining the room in which
are contained the historical coaches referred to in the previous paragraph is devoted to a
very fine collection of archaeological objects. In the six center cases and side cupboards will
be found clays, potteries, ornaments, marble vases, seals, arrow points, etc., all of which
have been found in Mexico.

DEPARTMENT OF COMPARATIVE ANATOMY. Leaving the Department of
Archaeology and mounting the first stairway to the left, the first door gives access to the
room occupied by the Directors of the Museum and by the Secretary's office The door
in front leads to the Museum of Anatomy, Theratology and the Herbarium. Here is found
a fine collection in these lines, gathered in different parts of the Republic of Mexico.

The first room of Comparative Anatomy contains 70 specimens of skeletons, 33 skulls,
40 brains and 38 different pieces, which, in their major part, belong to mammiferous animals
and birds.

DEPARTMENT OF NATIONAL HISTORY. Leaving the last room of Compara-
tive Anatomy, and mounting the stairs to 'the next floor, the door to the left leads to this
department. Turning to the left and passing through two rooms, room No. 1 is reached.

Room I. On the walls of this room can be seen the portraits of all the illustrious
Franciscan Monks, in the History of Mexico, as Father Gante, Sahagun, Olmos, Margil
and others. The most noted are: No. 1. A Portrait of Father Pedro de Gante, an
illustrious missionary. No. 2. A Portrait of Father Andres de Olmos, a remarkable
linguist. No. 3. A Portrait of Father Bernardino de Sahagun, a distinguished historian.
No. 10. A Portrait of Father Margil de Jesus, the founder of the Colleges of Quere-
taro, Zacatecas and Guatemala.

Room II. Hanging from the walls, in this room, there is a complete collection of por-
traits of the Viceroys of New Spain (1535-1821).

Also a collection of crayon drawings, by Velasco, of the ruins of Cempoala (State of
Vera Cruz).

In the center, No. 72, the Temple of Tajin, or the Papantla Pyramid, in wood, and on a
reduced scale.

No. 73. The Grand Temple of Cempoala, where Panfilo de Narvaez was defeated by
Hernan Cortez.

Room III. Different objects of the Conquest. No. 106. A portrait of Cortez. Nos.
Ill to 116. A coat of mail. Nos. 121 to 123. Three wooden chests, very ancient. Nos.
119 and 120. Frames for mirrors. Nos. 117 and 118. Instruments of capital punishment.

Room IV. Copies of Indian Codices, of the time of the Conquest. No. 135. A Map of
the City of Mexico, in the first half of the eighteenth century. No. 136. A Map of the
Drainage of the Valley of Mexico, through Huehuetoca, in the second half of the eighteenth
century. No. 137. A Map of the "Alameda" (Park) of the City of Mexico, in 1778.
No. 142. Portrait of the illustrious poetess Sister Juana Ines de la Cruz.

Room V. This room has been destined to relics of the Mexican Independence; of the
Empire of Iturbide ; and of the Republic, in some of its phases of actual times.

No. 160. In the walls: Portrait of the Mayor of Queretaro, Don Miguel Dominguez.
No. 192. A wax statuette, the portrait of Iturbide. No. 193. Portrait of Guadalupe
Victoria, the first President of Mexico. No. 194. Portrait of General Vicente Guerrero.
Nos. 198 and 199. Portrait of General Santa Ana. No 208. Large equestrian portrait
of Maximilian. No. 209. Bronze bust of Maximilian.

In the center: Three glass shelves, containing the state plates, dishes, etc., of the Court
of Maximilian ; the bed on which President Juarez died, July 18, 1872, covered by the

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

Mexican flag, the same which floated on the convent of La Rabida, Spain, on the fourth
centenary of the discovery of America by Columbus. On the left-hand side may be seen the
following interesting objects: No. 226. The death mask of President Juarez. No. 205.
Cast of Ocampo's mask. No. 202. Frame containing one of the two pens with which was
signed the Constitution of 1S57.

In the glass case at the end of the room are a number of interesting historical objects,
namely :

Nos. 160a to 164. Collection known as "Hidalgo." Different objects, some of which
belonged to the immortal Father of Mexico's Independence.

Salto del Agna Fountain at the End of the Old Aqueduct.

Nos. 165 to 167. Collection "Morelos." It is claimed that these three objects were worn
by the illustrious Morelos on the last night of his life.

Nos. 168 to 170. Collection "Iturbide."

Nos. 185 to 190. Collection "Riva Palacio." An interesting collection of objects which
belonged to General Vicente Guerrero, and others not less rare and interesting.

Nos. 217 to 219. The "Juarez" Collection. A collection of objects which, some of them,
belonged to President Juarez; and others, presented after his death by his family.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE. 91

DEPARTMENT OF NATURAL HISTORY. The .entrance to this department faces
the entrance to the Department of National History. In the entrance may be seen the
imitation, in gypsum, of the skeleton of the Megaterium, put up and arranged in the posture
of that prehistoric animal. The room to the left is devoted to Paleontology and contains
the bones of elephants, horses, llamas found in the great Tequixquiac cut made for the
drainage of the Valley of Mexico. The room to the right is devoted to Mineralogy and
contains a large number of mineral specimens, crystals, meteorites, etc.

Following the Department of Mineralogy comes the Department of Zoology, as follows :

Room I. Mammalia. This room contains most curious specimens, as the Seal of the
Tropics, the Mexican Tapir (a species unknown in Europe, owing to the immense difficulty
of acquiring a specimen) ; and of the chief species of mamrmferous animals of the old
continent.

Room IT. Birds. In this collection you can see the pretty Humming birds, the Quetzal
and variegated singing birds of beautiful feathers, as the Zentsontlcs and Calandrias
(thrush).

The series of Eagles and Vultures is worth seeing, and the Harpy-eagle and the Buzzard-
king are, without any doubt, remarkable specimens. The latter is a king of Condor.

Room III. Entomology. Here is to be seen a most rich series of Mexican Coleoptera,
collected by Dr. Eugene Duges.

Room IV. Reptiles, Fish, Batracians. In the collection of reptiles, there are numerous
specimens of Iguanas, Rattlesnakes, Boas and others. Remarkable among them, is the
Scorpion (Pfcloderma), feared for his poisonous stings. Also, some Sea Serpents.

Room V. Invertebrates. In this room are found collections of Mollusks very rich
indeed; and in the collection of Crustaceans also in this room is to be remarked the
paw-nippers of a lobster of enormous size.

ROOM OF ANTHROPOLOGY AND ETHNOLOGY. Entrance on left-hand side of
room V. An excellent collection of skulls, skeletons, mummies, casts, photographs, furniture,
implements, weapons, tools, etc.

MONTE DE PI ED AD. The block of houses on the western side of the Plaza, opposite
the Cathedral, and at the commencement of the Calle Cinco de Mayo, occupies the grounds
of the extensive Palace of Moctezuma, in which this unfortunate Prince was taken by
Cortez, November 14, 1519. After the Conquest, Cortez became the proprietor of the
Palace and erected here a dwelling. In 1836 the Monte de Piedad, or National Pawn Shop,
was established there. The institution was first established in the Old College, San Pedro
y Pablo, on February 25, 1776, and was endowed with $300,000 by Count de Regla, whose
fortune had been made in mining at Pachuca. His idea was to open a place where persons
could borrow money, and be saved from the usurious charges of pawnbrokers and money
loaners. At first no interest was charged, but as this was found impracticable, a nominal
rate is now in effect. So low are the charges that it is really a boon to the people, and
when the interest is not paid, the articles are sold and whatever amount remains over from
the fixed charges is returned to the original owner.

The pawn shop is well worth a visit, as many objects of interest are found there, and
tourists who are familiar with the value of diamonds, jewelry and other articles, are often
able to secure some very fair bargains. Among the things to see there are some rare old
souvenirs and bric-a-brac.

THE FLOWER MARKET. Directly in front of the National Pawn Shop, and at one
side of the Cathedral, is the Flower Market, which is certainly one of the interesting sights
of the city. The best time to visit the market is in the early morning, preferably Sunday.
At that time there will be found a most beautiful collection of all kinds of flowers, roses,
pansies and violets predominating. The air for a block is made fragrant by their delicious

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

perfume. The flowers are very cheap, if one only has enough patience to wait until the
prices come down to a reasonable figure, about one-third of the first price.

THE PORT ALES. The entire west side of the Plaza, extending from Calle de Plateros,
is occupied by the Portal de Mercaderes, with its twenty-seven low and gayly colored arches
and rows of stands and stores. The exterior of the pillars is decorated with advertise-
ments, and under the arcades are found dozens of little stands for the sale of newspapers,
lemonade, cigarettes, toys, leather goods and almost everything imaginable. It is one of
the liveliest places in the city, and is the favorite resort for ratcros (pickpockets), loafers
and street peddlers. On the southern side of the square is the City Hall, or Palacio Muni-
pal, a long two-story building with a "portal" of fourteen lofty arches about 250 feet long,
built of gray ornamented sandstone, on the ground floor. Here are located the offices of
the city and district Government, the headquarters of public coaches, and the city council.
In the building are a number of fine oil paintings of the different governors, viceroys and
rulers of the Republic of Mexico.

THE 'THIEVES MARKET." One of the interesting places to visit near the Plaza is
the Volador, or "Thieves Market/' opposite the south end of the National Palace. Here
will be found an immense collection of all kinds of odds and ends, from handsome shawls
to old bottles. Articles of great value may occasionally be purchased. Visitors are warned
against paying the first price asked, as the merchants expect to be argued down at least
fifty per cent. The greatest number of stalls are always to be found on Sunday mornings.

Soldiers Off Duty.

W. H. HUNT, CHAS. FRANCIS PHILLIPS,

President. Vice-President.

J. O. RICE, WALTER H. MORRIS,

Treasurer. Sec'y and Ass't Treas.

JOHN H. MAUGHAM,
Vice-President.

W. J. HILANDS,

Vice- President.
RICARDO COLIN,

Secretary.

International Bank and Trust Company

OF AMERICA

(Succeeding the Mexican Trust Company Bank)

The First Trust company to Do Business in Mexico.

Authorized Capital,
Capital Outstanding,

$10,000,000
1,800,000

AGENCY: 52 Broadway, New York.

BRANCH BANKS IN MEXICO:

CITY OP MEXICO : 1st San Francisco, No. 5. P. O. Box 2129.

J. O. RICE, . . Manager.
GUADALAJARA : AQUAS CALIENTES : SAN LUIS POTOSI :

Manager, George E. Purnell. Manager, L. W. Wood. Manager, A. E. Crosby.

TAMPICO : PACHUCA:

Manager, A. J. Hunter. Manager, Enrique H. Bunt.

PUEBLA : MONTEREY:

Manager, Henry A. Welch. Manager, Juan Adler.

Tourists may have mail addressed in care of any of the Company's branches.

TRANSACTS A GENERAL BANKING BUSINESS.

Draws Bills of H xchange on every part of the world. Issues Letters of Credit. Acts as Trustee
and Financial Agent for Corporations and Individuals. Buys and sells Government, State, Municipal,
Railroad and other Bonds. Collections made on all parts of Mexico.

Deposit accounts in Mexico solicited from Banks, Corporations, Merchants and Individuals in
either U. S. Gold or Mexican Silver Currency, and Interest allowed by Agreement.

Correspondence invited, and may be conducted in Spanish or French.

Control has been secured for United States and Latin America of the stamp certified check system
for travelers and for making small maU remittances. This system is more convenient than money
orders. Write for specimen checks. Bankers and merchants at non-banking points desired to act as
agents. Terms on application.

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dollars and ^d- cents, when certifying f tamp* /or that sum are hereto jfflxfd.

sis! i

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To FOURTH STREET NATIONAL BANK,

&C. OOOO PHILADELPHIA. Pm.

FROM THE ZOCALO TO CHAPULTEPEC.

'ROM the Zocalo to the Castle of Chapultepec is a
most interesting and beautiful trip, and one of the
first that should be taken by the tourist. Leaving
the Plaza, the trip is made along Plateros ; passing
the church of La Profesa; thence along San Fran-
cisco street, splendid with its many French, German
and American stores; by the ruins of the famous
Franciscan monastery, that was so closely identified
with the history of Mexico from Cortez to Juarez;
then to the beautiful Alameda, the picturesque
pleasure spot of the city, with its broad walks shaded
by gigantic poplars. What could be more interesting !
At one side of the Alameda runs Avenida Juarez,
named for Mexico's great liberator. The trip is
continued out the Paseo de la Reforma, flanked on
both sides by the residences of prominent Mexicans.
At the corner of the Alameda is the office of the
Consul-General of the United States. Facing the

Bronze Horse, and occupying a very commanding position, is the new home of Ignacio
de la Torre, one of the very wealthy Mexicans, and son-in-law of President Diaz. On
the same side of the Paseo, and a block further on, is the stone residence of Mr. Tomas
Braniff, one of the builders of the Mexican Railway, which is noted for its luxuriously-
furnished interior. Between the Glorietas de Colon and Cuauhtemoc, surrounded by a
superb garden, is the home of the late Delfin Sanchez, son-in-law of President Juarez. To
the left of the Cuauhtemoc statue is the new Paseo extension, almost entirely occupied by
Americans.

LA PROFESA. Two squares west of the Zocalo, at the corner of Profesa, or Third
San Francisco, and Calle San Jose Real, stands one of the finest churches in Mexico La
Profesa. It is also one of the oldest churches, and dates its foundation back to 1595. Like
all Catholic churches in the Republic, it has gone through many trials and privations, and
its history is full of stirring events. The church is noted for two famous pictures, "The
Adoration of the Cross" and "The Seven Sacraments."

The interior is very richly decorated in white and gold; and its main altar is one of the
most notable works of the architect Tolsa. The magnificent drapings of crimson velvet
embroidered with gold, used on the great festivals, were presented by Father Manuel
Sanchez de Tagle y Bolea, a notable benefactor of the church. At the time of the purchase
of the edifice by the Felipenses, its name was changed to San Jose el Real ; but the name
of Profesa, having been in current use for nearly seventy years, was too firmly fixed in the
popular mind to be abandoned; and to this day that name is retained. The street upon
which the church fronts, however, is called San Jose el Real while the street upon its
southern side, in reality the Third of San Francisco, often is called the Calle de Profesa.
Upon this southern side of the church the municipality caused to be made, in the year 1885,
a very pretty little garden. The buildings at one time belonging to the church have for the
most part disappeared, and the few remaining have been materially modified.

HOTEL ITURBIDE. Three blocks beyond La Profesa, on First San Francisco, is

The Patio of the Iturbide Hotel.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

the historical Hotel Iturbide, a large four-story building, in late Renaissance style, richly
ornamented with stucco and painted. Through the high doorway we glance into the
elegant large courtyard, surrounded by thirteen slender Doric columns which support
the lofty arches. Iturbide occupied this palace from September, 1821, to March, 1823;
from here he was drawn by the people in his carriage to the Congress, which gave him
the title of Emperor, and from here he was taken to be crowned. On March 1, 1855, the
building was opened as a hotel.

AMERICAN CLUB. At the corner of Gante and San Francisco is the American
Club, one of the most popular social insti-
tutions of the city. It has a membership
of 600.

CHURCH OF SAN FRANCISCO.
Around no other building in Mexico cluster
such associations as are gathered about the
church of San Francisco. Truly has it been
said that the history of Mexico is linked
with it. It is now only a wreck of its
former greatness, but, nevertheless, it still
marks, in the most striking and dramatic
manner, the story of the great struggle made
by the Mexican people for their religious
liberties. For three centuries it was the
center from which radiated the commanding
influence of the Franciscan order. This
order was established in Mexico in 1525,
three years after the Conquest, by a band
of Franciscans, commonly known as the
Twelve Apostles of Mexico, and Fray Pedro
de Gante, one of the five missionaries to the
Indians, who came to Mexico in 1523, and
whose holiness and usefulness of life en-
deared him to all he met. He joined the
Twelve Apostles at Mexico City, and
together they laid the first foundations of
the order that afterward became such a
power in the National life.

The ground on which the church now
stands is supposed to have been a part of
the Palace of Moctezuma, and the famous

wild-beast park, of which Cortez wrote, is believed to have been located exactly on this
spot. Much of the material employed in the construction of the first church came from
the old Aztec Teocalli, which was destroyed by the Spanish soldiers. During the years
of the Viceroys, the church prospered, increasing in wealth and buying property, until it
owned a tract of land, bounded by Calle de Zuleta, San Juan de Letran, First San Francisco
and Calles Coliseo and Colegio de Ninos. What is now the Hotel Jardin was the infirmary
and lodging-house of the monastery. Across the garden is the old refectory, now a store-
room. The Iturbide Hotel is on ground intended for a convent, and the San Carlos Hotel
is also within the lines of Old Francisco. It was an estate which, at the present time, would
be worth many million dollars.

The first assault upon the integrity of the Franciscan establishment was struck by
President Comonfort in 1856. Positive information reached him upon the 14th of September

Selling Charcoal.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

of that year that a conspiracy, having its origin in this monastery, had been formed
for the overthrow of the existing government and the establishment of a government in
harmony with the views of the ultra-clerical party. The revolution was to begin on the
16th of September the great National holiday commemorating the Declaration of Inde-
pendence. Comonfort acted with his customary energy. On the morning of the 15th the
monastery was taken possession of by Federal troops and the entire community of monks
placed under arrest; on the 16th a decree was promulgated ordering the opening of a new
street, to be called Independencia directly across the middle of the Monastery inclosure
from east to west; and on the 18th another decree was promulgated in which the treason-
able acts of the members of the Order were recited, and, in punishment of this treason, the
monastery was declared suppressed and its property forfeited to the State. Satisfied, how-
ever, with having proved the supremacy of the civil to the religious power, Comonfort
annulled the decree of suppression by a decree of February 19, 1857, that permitted the

The Lottery Building in the Alameda. ^^

reestablishment of the monastery. But the decree did not restore the commanding moral
standing of the Order lost through its temporary suppression, any more than it restored the
real estate sacrificed to make way for the new street that in the interval had been opened.
It was this bold act of Comonfort's that made possible the bolder act by which Juarez, four
years later, extinguished all the religious orders at a blow the general catastrophe in
which the great Franciscan establishment found its end. On the 27th of December, 1860,
the army of Juarez entered the city, and immediately made operative and effective the
decree of July 12, 1859. The monastery of San Francisco was closed at once; early in
1861 the jewels and pictures were removed from the church the latter going to the Academy
of San Carlos; the altars were destroyed; the bells were taken from the tower, and, a little
later, the construction was begun of the houses upon San Juan de Letran by which the
fagade was hidden and the main entrance closed. In the following April a street was cut
through the property from north to south, crossing or passing very near to the. site of the
first chapel of the Indians; and in the name given to this street, Gante, is preserved a
memorial of the good work here wrought by the purest and noblest Franciscan ever known
in New Spain.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

101

Under the Cypress Trees in Chapultepec Park.

In 1869 the great church was sold for Protestant purposes, and the Trinity Methodist
Episcopal Church on Gante street was built from a part of the old wall. The main church
fronting on San Francisco street was bought and occupied for some years by Christ
Episcopal Church, but later was sold to the Catholics.

In the Franciscan group there were seven churches and chapels, famous throughout
Mexico. On San Juan de Letran, Independencia and Gante streets, some of the old facades
can still be seen. All of the seven churches have now disappeared, with the exception of
Our Lady of Aranzazu.

THE JOCKEY CLUB. On the opposite side of the street, and in the same block,
stands the handsome clubhouse of the Mexican Jockey Club, commonly known as the
House of Tiles. It is entirely unique and has an air of 'Old Spain about it. It was built in

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

103

Entrance to the Alcitneda.

the eighteenth century by the Count del Valle, and used by him as his residence. Its fagade

is entirely encrusted with porcelain tiles of blue and white, which were imported from

China, and which were, at that time, worth their weight in silver. The entrance is massive

and elegant and the interior no less striking. On the ground floor to the left is the library,

which contains a valuable collec-
tion of books. The grand stair-
way is a fine piece of work. It

is practically unchanged from

olden times. A large lamp with

alabaster globes is at the turn of

the landing; it was under its

shadow that the Count del Valle

met his death at the hands of an

assassin. Porcelain tiles are also

used largely in the decoration of

the interior, and "tumbago," a

bronze composite, brought from

China in Spanish galleons, is

used for the railings. The Jockey

Club was organized in the year

1881, and numbers among its

members the most exclusive of

Mexican society. There are very

few foreign members. The club

owns a race track at Peralvillo, between the city and Guadalupe, and meets are held

there in the fall and spring.

Directly adjoining the Jockey Club and fronting on the Plazuela de Guardiola is the

splendid residence of the Escandon family, a part of the first floor being used for the

city ticket office of the Mexican Central Railway.

NATIONAL THEATER.
Adjoining the Alarneda and fac-
ing Puente de San Francisco is
the site of the National Theater
of Mexico, which is being built
by the Mexican Government. It
will be a magnificent structure
and will cost approximately
$2,000,000.

THE ALAMEDA. A pleas-
ing stretch of green sward in the
center of the city is the Alameda,
a cool and restful spot. It is
the public park of shrubbery
and shade trees, with monuments
and fountains that invite one to
loiter and rest. During the week
it is the favorite playground of
children, as they can romp to
their hearts' content along the broad walks and in the center glorietas. On Sunday morning
and feast days it becomes a theater of a most brilliant and fashionable assemblage. A
bright-colored awning is erected over one of the wide walks; chairs are put at both sides,

Horsemen on the Paseo.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

105

and at 11 o'clock the crowds commence to congregate. A military band lends eclat to the
occasion, and at 12 o'clock the promenade is a kaleidoscope of moving colors. Here the
youth of the city gather and the stolen glances, which form the only intercourse allowed
between the sexes, flash back and forth between youth and maiden. Even though deprived
of the opportunity for interchange of vows, for hand-clasping and tender greeting, it is
evident that the young Mexican girl, true to her traditions, can make as much havoc with
her dark, languishing eyes, as her Northern sister provided with all the accompaniments of
modern courtship. Some of the girls to be seen on the Alameda are exquisite, with the
superb eyes, the rippling masses of dusky hair, the low forehead, the olive cheeks, with
which the Spanish type has always been painted by the poet's imagination. The Alameda
is so called because it was first planted with alamos, or poplars. The name is now generally
applied to any large pleasure-ground or park. In 1592 the Viceroy, Don Luis de Velasco,
requested the City Council to set apart a portion of the city's funds for making a Paseo

Private Residences on the Paseo.

for the City of Mexico. The very ancient Indian market of San Hipolito was selected,
the tract at that time embracing only a portion of the present Alameda. It was planted
with poplar trees, made beautiful with fountains and flowers and was inclosed with a wall
pierced by gateways. In the open space westward was the Plaza del Quemadero, notable
because of a stone platform upon which victims of the Inquisition were burned. In 1770
the quemadero was removed and the Plaza made a part of the Alameda, thus making it about
forty acres in extent. It has been gradually improved since that time and is now in perfect
order. Quantities of roses and flowering shrubs have been planted, the fountains repaired,
two handsome music-stands erected, and other substantial improvements made. Concerts
are given there Thursday morning and Sunday morning and afternoon. In the center of the
southern side has been placed the octagonal Moorish exposition hall from the World's Fair
in New Orleans. It is now occupied by a lottery company.

PASEO DE LA REFORMA. Three blocks from the west corner of the Alameda, the
famous Paseo de la Reforma commences. It runs in a direct line from the plazucla in which
stands the statue of Charles IV. to the gates of Chapultepec a distance of three miles. It
is the Bois de Boulogne of Mexico, and on Sunday and Thursday afternoons, when there

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

107

are concerts in the glorietas and at Chapultepec, the review is quite imposing. Through
this magnificent driveway hundreds of brilliant equipages pass and repass. Every Mexican
family that makes any pretensions to social distinction must have a carriage and appear
on the Paseo. A half-hour before dusk it is a beautiful sight. The carriages are full of
brightly-dressed ladies and children, with drivers and coachmen in splendid and showy
livery. Young men and boys in charro suits, with big gold and silver braided sombreros,
dash by on fiery steeds. It is here you see the Mexican girl in all her beauty, reclining upon
the cushions of her carriage with nonchalant grace. Here you meet with nods and smiles,
expressions of joy and happiness on every face, and _ _^_

with that fascinating little Mexican greeting, which
is spoken with the fingers. It is the proper thing
on Sunday afternoons to drive from the Zocalo to
Chapultepec, the return being made at dusk.

To Empress Carlota the idea of the Paseo is
credited. At any rate it was established during the
empire of Maximilian and became at once the
fashionable drive. It is a broad, smooth boulevard,
two hundred feet in width and shaded by a double
row, on each side, of splendid trees. Beneath the
trees are broad footways, along which carved stone
benches are placed at short intervals. The Paseo
widens here and there into circles called glorietas.
These circles are four hundred feet in diameter and
there are six in the three miles. Two of these
already are adorned with imposing monuments,
Columbus and Cuauhtemoc. In a third a monument
to Independence will be erected, and the others will
be devoted to the memory of men illustrious in
Mexican history. Continuing in the direction of
Chapultepec a series of bronze figures, about life
size, have been erected. These are placed on pedes-
tals of stone about seven feet high and represent
modern men of Mexico. It is proposed to continue
the erection of these statues, the various states of
the union each adding two of their famous men
deemed worthy of the honor. Many improvements
are being made in the Paseo, the principal work
being the construction of two drives on each side
of the main drive and separated from it by gardens.
When completed the width of the Paseo will be
four hundred feet.

THE EQUESTRIAN STATUE OF CHARLES
IV. At the entrance to the Paseo stands the heroic
statue of Charles IV. of Spain, which is the largest
piece of single bronze and the most notable public
monument on the Western Continent. The height

of the horse and rider is fifteen feet nine inches, and the weight 60,000 pounds. The King
is dressed in classic style, wearing a laurel wreath and holding in his right hand a raised
scepter. The horse is represented in the act of walking slowly, the left forefoot and the
right hindfoot being raised. The general effect of the work is heavy, but the lines and
composition are good ; the figure is well seated, and the action of the horse is excellent.

An Ice Cream Man on the Paseo.

108

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

The Cuauhtemoc Statue.

The statue was cast August 4, 1802, and is the work of Don Manuel Tolsa. It was first
placed in the plaza November 29, 1803, and was formally unveiled, with great ceremony,
on December 9th of the same year. Here it remained until 1822, when the feeling against
Spam became so bitter, and the sight of the statue of one of her most-disliked kings became
so offensive to patriotic eyes, that it was taken down from its pedestal and placed in the
patio of the University, where the Thieves' Market now stands. Here it remained until
1852, when it was moved with great labor to its present commanding position. It bears
an inscription to the effect that Mexico preserves it as a work of art and not as a
monument.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

109

THE COLUMBUS MONUMENT. In the next glorieta, known as Glorleta de Colon,
stands the handsome monument to the discoverer of the New World by the French
sculptor Cordier. It was a gift to the city from Don Antonio Escandon, a public-spirited
citizen. The base of the monument is a large platform of basalt, from which rises a
square mass of red marble, ornamented with four bronzes in relief; the rebuilding of the
monastery of Santa Maria de la Rabida; the discovery of the Island of San Salvador;
a fragment of a letter from Columbus to the Raphadi Sauris, and the dedication of the
monument by Sr. Escandon. Above these pictures, surrounded by pedestals, are life-size
bronze figures of the four priests most noted in the history of Mexico. The figure of
Columbus, a masterly conception of the admiral, stands at the top, upon a pedestal of
red marble. His right arm is outstretched and he looks as if he was viewing for the

The Bronze Horse.

first time the new continent. The work is excellent, and has been very much admired by
artists. It stands in a little garden in the center of the glorieta, which is planted with
bright-colored flowers.

THE CUAUHTEMOC STATUE. The next glorieta is dedicated to the last Emperor
of the Aztecs, the hero of the resistance which Mexico made against the troops of Cortez.
It is one of the most beautiful monuments which adorn the capital, combining as it does
work of the modern and ancient school. Cuauhtemoc is represented in a statue of bronze,
five meters in height, in the act of throwing a battle spear. The figure is well propor-
tioned and is perfectly poised. The pedestal is of stone, carved with fluted columns and is
typical of the Aztec architecture. There are two scenes of the life of Cuauhtemoc in the
bas-relief; one when he was in prison in Mexico, and the other of his torture. On the
four sides of the pedestal are the names in bronze letters of four Aztec generals Guitiahuac,
one of the Emperors and hero of the Noche Triste, when Cortez was disastrously defeated ;
Coanacoch, Tetlepanquetzal and Cacama, three historic defenders of their country. The
monument was dedicated August 21, 1887, and is the work of Don Francisco Jimenez. Every

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

Ill

August festivals are held in the glorieta by the Indians, at which time speeches are made
in the Aztec language.

STATUE OF INDEPENDENCE. In the second glorieta beyond the Glorieta de
Cuauhtemoc is being erected a magnificent statue dedicated to Independence.

CHAPULTEPEC Standing out very effectively, upon its craggy height, at the end
of the Paseo de la Reforma, is the Palace of Chapultepec, the home of the President of the
Mexican Republic. The hill is a solid mass of rock, two hundred feet higher than the sur-
rounding territory, surmounted by the castle, an immense building in which are many
things of interest for the tourist. It is in the legends that the Palace of Moctezuma was on
the Hill of the Grasshopper, called Chapultepec. Here the last of the Emperors wandered

The Monument to Cadets Who Fell at Chapultepec.

with his dark-eyed ladies, beneath these gigantic trees. Here he rested, perhaps, smoking
his "tobacco mingled with amber," and slept, his dreams unhaunted by the visions of the
stern traveler from the Far East, whose sails even then were perhaps within the sight of shore.
Here he was borne in his palanquin, and from the very rock where the castle now stands, he
may have looked out upon his fair Capital, with its surrounding lakes covered with canoes,
its outstretched villages and temples, and its gardens abloom with flowers. Here he met
Cortez, and the caves and pools and woods are even now haunted by the shade of the con-
queror's Indian love, the far-famed Dona Maria.

In the year 1783 the Viceroy Don Matias de Galvez obtained permission from the King
of Spain "to repair and put in order the palace of Chapultepec," thus implying-tthat before
that date an edifice of considerable proportions had crowned the hill. In this case, however,
repair meant reconstruction. The death of the Viceroy delayed for a short time the execu-

112

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

tion of the work ; but it was pushed forward so rapidly by his son, Don Bernardo de Galvez,
who also was his successor in the viceroyalty, that the new palace was completed in 1785, at
a cost of upward of $300,000. Very considerable additions to the building have been made
both in Viceroyal and Republican times, and further additions were made to it during the
brief reign of Maximilian who made it his residence. In the year 1887 plans were per-
fected for making Chapultepec the Presidential residence. Large sums were expended in
necessary renovation; and the palace is now the official home of the President of the
Republic.

Surrounding the Castle is a handsome public garden, which has in late years become a
favorite resort for the people of the city. It is constantly being beautified and improved.
The cypress groves at the foot of the rock are among the wonders of the world, and are

The West Point of Mexico.

not surpassed in magnificence anywhere on this continent. Here, for centuries, has stood
"Moctezuma's cypress," a stupendous tree, dark, sclemn and stately, of majestic height and
forty-one feet in circumference. Science says that it was already old when Moctezuma was
a boy, and it is still vigorous in the days of Diaz! From the lower branches festoons and
soft draperies of long gray moss sway lightly to and fro. The Castle is reached by a winding
carriage road, on one side, and at the top stands a detail from the cadet corps, beyond
which there is no passing without a permit from the Secretary of Comunicaciones, Plazuela
de Santo Domingo. The view from the marble terraces is one of the most magnificent in
the world. It has been described in the following language :

"The view from the esplanade is beautiful indeed. Tacubaya, almost hidden by trees,
is in the middle distance, and beyond, on the rising hills, other towns and villages; and
still beyond the mountains are the great snowcapped peaks of Popocatepetl and Ixtaccihuatl.
If you agree that the vista from the esplanade is very beautiful, pass through the garden to

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE. 113

the overhanging balcony on the other side, and look out over the broad sweeping plain of
the valley. To the right is the field of Churubnsco, and farther on the shimmering waters
of Lake Texcoco. In front, the magnificent city, with its hundreds of towers. The tallest,
overshadowing all the others, are the Cathedral's. Beyond the city's spreading squares
you can see the hill and church of Guadalupe. Following the range of vision around to
the left there is the suburb of Tacuba, the hill of Los Remedios; and nearer to where you
stand is the battleground of Molino del Rey. The magnificence of the picture baffles all
description ; it is wondrous to behold, and the memory of it lives with you always. Far
below your feet the tall cypress-like trees shade the modest monument erected to the mem-
ory of the Cadets who fell in the defense of the Capital from the assaulting Americans in
1847. The names on the shaft tell of those whose lives went out in the merciless fire of a
superior army. A monument was not needed, except in their honor, for the memory of these
brave boys lives in the hearts of their countrymen. There are fresh beauties in the hanging-
garden filled with pretty flowers, in the galleries, adorned in Pompeian color, but these do
not detain there is too much grandeur in the view and you wander again to the terrace
and gaze over the valley to the blue rim of the mountains melting into the lighter blue of the
sky, and are loath even to leave for the magnificence of the interior of this splendid palace."

The Castle is indeed a beautiful building. A double row of light and .elegant arches in
white and pale-tinted marbles marks the broad colonnades from which the main body of the
palace springs into the air with an effect of great delicacy and beauty. All the rooms open
on these marble balconies ; and on the uppermost flight, reached by an exquisite stairway with
gilded balustrades, have been built fountains and terraced gardens, enchanting as the hanging-
gardens of Babylon. Around under the arches the walls have been painted in fine copies
of Pompeian frescoes and Greek designs, executed with great purity both of color and
of form. This flowery arbor, perfumed and beautiful, forms the center around which cluster
the rooms of the palace. These are convenient for the purpose of summer residence, and
contain some marvellous ceilings, wherein Cupids play among tangled flower-wreaths or
blow on conchshells to waken sleeping Love.

The President and his family live at Chapultepec only in the summer. His rooms con-
sist of a magnificent suite, reception-room, boudoir, bedchamber, dining hall, smoking and
card rooms, all handsomely furnished. There are very few ancient articles of interest in
the Castle, although it is a heritage from the Viceroys. Much of the beauty of its decora-
tion is due to Empress Carlota, though all that was indicative of the Empire has disappeared.
In the ante-room at the corner of the esplanade are two chairs that belonged to Cortez. Just
after the entrance to the winding road leading to the Castle is passed a large cave will be
noted. In this cave is now placed an elevator running to the top of the rock.

No trip to Chapultepec is complete without a drive around the Castle, passing through
groves of immense cypresses. There are walks and drives of miles of shady way.

A part of Chapultepec is occupied by the National Military Academy, the West Point
of Mexico, where the officers of the army are trained.

PLACES OF INTEREST.

NATIONAL ACADEMY OF FINE
ARTS. Two squares east of the
Cathedral, and one square from
the National Museum, is the National
Academy of Fine Arts, usually called
the Academy of San Carlos. The build-
'ing is open daily 1 from 10 A. M. to 2
p. M. Admission is free.

This school of Fine Arts was ; estab-
lished by Charles the Third, March 15,
1778, as a School of Engraving, which
was opened in May, 1779. Previous to
that time the eminent Franciscan Fa-
ther, Pedro de Gante, founded a school
of music and drawing in 1529. This
was the parent Art School in Mexico,
The present Academy was formally
opened on November 4, 1785, and soon
exercised a great influence. In the latter
part of the seventeenth century, paint-
ing received its greatest impetus in
Mexico. The Catholic Church had ac-
quired great riches and was able and
ready to spend large sums for the
artistic decoration of its buildings ; thus

$9,000 and more were paid for a large good picture. On that account fine artists were
incited to send their work, or to come to Mexico. The wars of independence frcm 1810 to
1843 made art struggle hard for its existence. President Santa Ana gave, in 1843 the impetus
for its restoration, and in 1846 a new 7 era of art in Mexico, and the so-called "Modern
Mexico School," in imitation of the Roman School, was founded.

The present collection is well worthy of an extended study. The gallery was estab-
lished in 1846, and since 1861 it has been enriched by many large and fine paintings from
the sequestered churches.

The school is now in fairly flourishing circumstances. It receives a regular allowance
from the Government. The attendance at the classes averages about 100, and prizes are
given for meritorious work by pupils, including a Roman prize of a pension of $600 a year,
for six years. In the following brief catalogue only the more important pictures are
mentioned.

After crossing the courtyard, the ascent is made by a stone staircase to the galleries
on the second floor. On the landing are three large oil paintings, by Jose Juarez, taken
from the convent of San Francisco; at the right, "San Salvador de Orta;" in the center,
"The Wonders of St. Franciscus;" at the left, "The Death of St. Franciscus." At the
end of the staircase is a narrow hall, which forms a part of the drawing-room, which is
always occupied by a dozen or more students. To the right is found the first room of
the* picture gallery.

Portrait of Maximilian in National Museum.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE,

117

First Room. Devoted to pictures of the "Old Mexico School." Commencing at the right
the principal pictures are :

I. "St. Cecile," by Echave, the Elder, painted on wood, style of Florentine School,
from the Church of San Agustin.

3. "Assumption of Mary," by A. Vazquez.

5. The quaint picture of the little saints and martyrs, Justo and Pastor, by Jose Juarez,
from the convent of La Profesa (1653).

6. The wonderfully fine "Martyrdom of St. Apronianus," by Echave, the Elder (1602).

7. "Apparition of Virgin to St.
Ildefonso," by L. Juarez, upon
wood.

II. The delightful portrait of
"Don Joaquin Manez de Santa
Cruz, at the age of four years,"
by Nicolas Juarez.

12. "Christ on the Mount of
Olives," by L. Juarez, probably his
best picture.

18. "Christ in the Garden," by
Echave, the Elder, from the con-
vent of La Profesa.

20. "Adoration of the Magi,''
by J. Jaurez.

21. "The Holy Family," by
Echave, the Elder.

29. "Christ and St. Thomas,"
by Arteaga, an impressive picture.
It will be noted that the principal
figure in this picture is less well
treated than the secondary figure.

Second Room. "Old Mexican
School" continued. (Numbers be-
gin at right from the entrance.)

47. "Apparation of Virgin and
Christ to San Francisco," Echave,
the Elder.

52. "Martyrdom of St. Ponci-
ano," by Echave, the Elder.

55. "Christ and the Adulteress,"
by J. Ibarra. There is a charming
bit of expression in the face of the

Travasuras del Amor, by Manuel Ocaransa.

hoy leaning forward in this picture.

60. "Espousals of Christ and Virgin," by S. Arteaga.

73. "Virgin of the Apocalypse," by Cabrera (1760). A striking picture.

75. "Interior of the Convent of Betlemitas," by Villalpando, interesting, rather because
of the subject than because of the quality of the work.

85. "Adoration of the Magi," in which the painter, Nicholas Juarez, has introduced his
own portrait, the second figure on the left, in blue drapery.

88. Eight pictures out of the life of Christ, by J. Ibarra.

95. (Above the door.) "The Holy Sepulcher," in which the light is so well carried off
of the faces of the Virgin and Magdalen.

Fray Bartolome de la Casas, Protector of the Indians. From the Painting by Felix Parra.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

119

Third Room. "European Masters of various schools, in original and copies." (Num-
bers begin at the right from entrance.)

1. Very striking portrait, a woman in the habit of a Dominican Nun. Is believed to
be a portrait of Maria de Austria, second wife of Philip IV. By Carreno.

2. "St. Gregorius, the Great."

9. "St. John, the Baptist, in the Desert," attributed to Murillo, and certainly by him,
or a very good artist of his school.

14. "St. Sebastian," attributed to Van Dyke.

34. "The Fall of Man," attributed to Michael Angelo.

La Rcina Xochitl, by Jose Obregon.

39. "'The Seven Virtues," painted on wood, attributed to Leonardo. Whatever its
source, this picture possesses undeniably great qualities. The drawing is wonderfully fine,
and the superb coloring is enchanting.

61. "Christ, Tormented," in the style pf ; ; Rivera, believed to be the work of Rubens.
Note the mocking face of the young fellow at the right, exactly in that artist's style.

65, 66, 67, 68. Four large pictures in the style of Murillo "St. Anthony," "St. Catalina
de Sena," "The Sacred Family" and the "Flight 'into' Egypt."

75. "Burial of Christ," unfinished painting by Rubens.

78. "Episode of the Flood," by Coghetti.

90. "Allegory of the Conquering" "of Virtue," by Francisco Podesti.

98. "St. John, the Baptist," by Ingres.

111. "St. Isidorus, the Farmer," by Rivera (Spagnoletto).

117. "Christ in Emaus," by Zubaran (1739).

La Caridad Romana, by Luis Monrc

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE. 121

124. "Mary at the Tomb," by Rivera (1840).

123. "St. John of the Lord," one of the most famous pictures in the gallery, by Murillo,
a replica of this picture in the Church of the Caridad, in Seville.

Fourth room (reached through door at the right hand, west wall). "Landscapes of
Modern European and Mexican Artists." (Numbers begin at left from entrance.)

1. "Interior of the Convent of San Francisco/' by Landesio.

5. "Park of Chapultepec," by Coto.

18. "Courtyard of Old Convent," by Velasco.

20. "Valley of Mexico," by Landesio.

22. "Highway of Chapultepec/' by Dumain.

Also two views of the Valley of Mexico, by J. M. Velasco, "At Lake Chalco," by L.
Portu, and the "Courtyard of the Former Hospital Real/' by C. Rivera.

Fifth Room. (At the end of the third room.) "Various Masters." The pictures in this
room have not yet been classified, or numbered. There are, however, some very interest-
ing pictures, which are hung in rather bad light. Here may be seen a very fine Othello in
modern Italian school.

Sixth Room. (Reached through columns on eastern side of third room. The ceiling is
decorated with frescoes and busts of celebrated men.) "Modern Mexican Artists." (The
numbers begin at the right.)

3. "Sacrifice of Abraham/' by Rebull.

4. "Holy Family," by R. Flores.

7. "Abraham and Isaac," by S. Pina.

9. "Christ and Magdalena/' by Manchola.

12. "Columbus at the Royal Court, after the Discovery of America," by J. Cordero.

16. "Dante and Virgil."

22. "St. Charles Borromeo." This picture won for its painter, Salome Pina, the Roman
prize.

31. "Columbus as a Youth," by Obregon.

41. "Queen Isabel of Portugal," by Clave.

Seventh Room. (At the western end of the sixth room). Here are found the best
utterances of modern Mexican art, some of the work being of a very high order of
excellence. The room is ceiled with frescoes, busts of benefactors, and professors of the.
Academy, painted by its scholars. (Numbers begin at the right).

1. "Roman Charity," by Luis Monroy, a, striking picture.

2. "Sleep of the Christian Martyrs."

4. "St. Luis Gonzaga during the pest in Rome/' by G. Carrasco.

6. "Cortez before Moctezuma," by J. Ortega.

14. "Brother Bartolome de las Casas, Protector of the Indians," by F. Parra. In
nobility of subject, grandeur and simplicity of treatment, and strong but subdued color, it
ranks as one of the great paintings of the world. Work such as this affords ample ground
for faith in the future of Mexican art.

15. "Xochitl and her Father, Papatzin, Presenting the Toltec Prince, Tecpancaltzin,
with the new drink of Pulque," by J. Obregon.

17. "Galileo," by F. Para. A picture that would attract attention anywhere.

19. The very fine "St. Job/' by Carrasco.

21. "An Episode of the Conquest (Cholula)/' by F. Parra.

23. "Margaret Repenting," by Ocadiz, also a fine example of modern Mexican art.
The library, which occupies the large front room, also contains some fine pictures. At

the lefa from the entrance is "The Martyrdom of San Lorenzo," by the Mexican Jose
Juarez. Above the door "Destruction of Jerusalem," by the Italian Silvagni. In the back-
ground, "Immaculate Conception," by the Spaniard, J. Aguilera. Among the furniture

Carlos III of Spain, by Salbador de Maella.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

123

La Visitation, by Baltazar de Echave.

of the library is an elegant old armchair, once the property of Cortez. On it is the
coat-of-arms of the city of Vera Cruz.

In one of the workrooms hang two pictures 'that have been greatly admired. One is
the ''Torture of Cuauhtemoc," by Izcaguerre, and the other is "Moctezuma," by Manuel
del Valle.

The art gallery also has a good collection -^of medals and engravings which can be seen
upon application to an attendant.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

125

On the first floor is the Sculpture Gallery. It contains, in eight rooms, some few
portrait busts, in marble, and a collection of plaster casts from the famous works of
sculpture of Greeks and Romans.

THE NATIONAL LIBRARY. On the Calle San Agustin, three squares south of
Plateros, is the National Library. It is open daily from 10 :00 A. M to 5 :00 P. M. The
building in which the library is housed, once the Church of San Agustin, is massive, of
magnificent proportions, and both inside and out its architectural features are very fine.
In common with all Spanish-American churches, its mass is admirable, and in this case,
the columns, basso relievos, friezes and other embellishments are executed in excellent
taste. Particularly to be noted is the fine basso relievo of San Agustin over the main

portal. The building has upon its north and west sides an ornamental garden surrounded
by a high iron railing, the posts being surmounted by portrait busts of the following
named Mexican celebrities : Poets, Manuel Carpio, Francisco M. Sanchez de Tagle, Jose
Joaquin Pesado, Fray Manuel Naverete and Netzahualcoyotl ; dramatist, Manuel Eduardo
Goroztiza; historians, Fernando A. Tezozomoc, Fernando A. Ixtlilxochitl, Francisco Javier
Clavijero, Mariano Veytia, Lucas Alaman and Fernando Ramirez; jurist, Manuel de la
Pena y Pefia; philologist, Fray Juan Crisostomo Najera; humanist, Carlos Siguenza y
Gongora ; naturalist, Jose A. Alzate ; chemist, Leopoldo Rio de la Loza ; Joaquin Cardoso.
Jose Maria Lafragua. Facing the garden, from a niche in the western wall of the Library.
is a large statue of Minerva.

In the north front a notable portal, guarded by a wrought-iron gate, gives entrance to
the marble-paved vestibule. From the pavement rises a line of Ionic columns, supporting
the groined arches of the old choir ; and from this stately vestibule the great nave of the

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

127

building is entered a magnificent hall, along the sides of which rise slender pilasters, sup-
porting the rich cornice whence spring the arches of the vaulted roof. Between the pilas-
ters formerly were the openings into the several chapels ; these openings now are walled up,
and the chapels form a series of alcoves parallel with the nave and connected with each
other by door-ways cut through their dividing walls. Ample light is obtained from
windows above the cornice, and from a noble window in the apse in front of which is
displayed a colossal cast in plaster, admirably modeled, of the arms of the Republic.
Balancing this work, a fine statue of Time, also colossal, stands in an open arch above the
choir. Ranged on pedestals along the walls of the great nave are colossal statues of the
following named fathers of learning : Valmiki, Confucius, Isaiah, Homer, Plato, Aristo-
phanes, Cicero, Virgil, St. Paul, Origen, Dante, Alarcon, Copernicus, Descartes, Cuvier

The Patio of the Old Convent of San Fernando.

and Humboldt. On each side of the entrance are medallion portraits, the one Juarez, by
whom was issued the decree ordering the establishment of the Library; the other of
Antonio Martinez de Castro, the Minister of Justice by whom the decree received its
official authorization. Annexed to the principal building is the old chapel of the Tercer
Orden, used at present as a storehouse for unclassified books. This quaint edifice, in
shape of a Greek cross, contrasts very effectively with the majestic mass and elegant
details of the Library building proper.

The Library, containing upward of 225,000 volumes, is composed mainly of books which
were removed from the libraries of the several monasteries in accordance with the operation
of the Laws of the Reform. It has also, notwithstanding its recent foundation, a con-
siderable collection of standard and current works in Spanish, French, English and German
a collection that is increased annually by judicious purchases. Naturally, its source
being remembered, its strongest departments are theology and Church history, in both of
which it is very rich ; and it is scarcely less rich in the department of Spanish-American

Garden and Entrance to the Church of San Juan de Dios.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

129

history which, indeed, during its first and second centuries, is little more than Church
history under another name. The labor of organizing and digesting the chaotic mass of
hooks here brought together has
been very great ; nor is it yet ended.

THE SCHOOL OF MINES.
The School of Mines, known as
La Mineria, is considered by all
Mexicans, and with justice, one of
the most imposing buildings, both
in size and architectural treatment,
in the Capital. It is located on
Calle San Andres, one block from
San Francisco street, and just be-
hind the Jockey Club. The build-
ing was completed April 3, 1813,
at a cost of $1,597,435, after plans
by Don Manuel Tolsa. Scarcely
was it finished, however, when the
walls began to settle, and this con-
tinued until they were dangerously

OUt of line and in many places The Church of San Fernando.

cracked. So considerable was the

injury to the structure, and so costly were the plans suggested for restoring it, that

at one time the intention was seriously entertained of demolishing it. Fortunately, at this

juncture, the skilful architect,
Don Antonio Villard, presented a
plan of restoration that was ap-
plied successfully at a cost of
$97,000, in the year 1830. The
curving lines of the cornices of
the east side show how far the
settling had gone before it could
be stopped.

The building is a very impos-
ing structure. It has fine courts,
galleries and stairways, and one
hall of magnificent proportions.
Decoration throughout, save in the
chapel, is simple and in excellent
taste. The chapel is decorated
richly, containing a very elegant
altar of bron/e, and upon its walls
and flat roof frescoes by the
Mexican artist, Jimeno. The
school possesses a serviceable
library, an astronomical and
meteorological observatory, fine
The Monument to Zaragosa. cabinets of geology and mineral-

ogy, and a museum of mechanical

apparatus of considerable value. It was in this building, during his visit to Mexico in 1880,

that General Grant was lodged.

130

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

A Mexican Lily.

CHURCH AND PANTHEON OF SAN FERNANDO. One of the most interesting
of Mexico's historic churches is that of San Fernando, two blocks west of the Alameda, and
at one end of the little Plazuela of San Fernando. It was here that the Independientes
held a mass to celebrate their triumphal entrance into the Capital. The church was built
by the Spanish Brotherhood of San Fernando, and was one of the early missions. It
was built from 1735-55, but was badly shattered by the earthquake of June 19, 1858, and
was thereafter renovated. The interior, forming a Latin cross, is vaulted with flat stones,
and possesses some large paintings. The noteworthy ones are in the sacristy (background)
"Birth of Christ" and (right) "Duns Scotus, Before the Doctors of the Church." To the

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

131

left of the church is the famous San Fernando pantheon. It is one of the oldest cemeteries,
and a fine example of the plan of wall burial now little used. It is the Westminster of
Mexico, destined for Mexican celebrities, and containing now about 1,200 dead. In the
main court rest President I. Comonfort, the imperial General T. Mejia, General I. Zara-
goza, the historical defender of Puebla ; President M. Carrera, and in a fine mausoleum.
President Benito Juarez. The roof of this mausoleum is supported by sixteen Doric
columns; in the center stands the sarcophagus, with the marble group. "The Mourning
Country at the Corpse of its Liberator." It is the work of the Islas Bros., and is the
finest piece of sculpture by Mexican artists. It was unveiled July 18, 1880. There are many
ether distinguished personages buried in San Fernando. The central niche of the eastern
wall contains the remains of the two statesmen, M. Ocampo and M. Lerdo. A little toward-^
the left, in No. 401, are those of President J. Herrera, and in No. 461 those of the tragedian,
A. Castro. In the corner niche of the northern wall rests the political writer, L. Valle.
In the eastern niche of the smaller court stands the monument of President V. Guerrero;
in the center that of the imperial
General, M. Miramon. In the north
wall, rest the author of the
National hymn, F. Bocanegra (Nu.
62), and the actor, M. Morales
(No. 59). A memorial festival is
held in honor of President Juarex
at his tomb each eighteenth day of
July.

THE NOCHE TRISTE TREK
At Popotla, a little village be-
tween Mexico and Tacuba, and
reached by the Tacuba or Atzca-
potzalco street cars starting from
the Plaza Mayor, is the famous
Arbol de la Nochc Tristc, the "Tree
of the Dismal Night,*' beneath
which Cortez sat and wept on the
night of the terrible retreat from
Mexico, July 1, 1520. It will be re-
membered that Cortez and hi^
troops were driven out of the city
over the Tacuba causeway after a
terrible defeat, and Cortez remained
under this tree all night. The tree,
an ahuehuctc, identical in kind with
those of the Park of Chapultepec,
flourished in perfect health until a
few years ago, when a fire was kin-
dled beneath it by fanatical Indians,

that seriously burned its trunk. Since then several of the upper branches have died. It
is now protected by a high iron railing.

CEMETERIES. The principal cemeteries of the City of Mexico are well worthy of
a visit. The British Cemetery is situated at Tlaxpana Gate, on Tacuba Road. The Spanish
Cemetery is on the same road. The French Cemetery is on La Piedad Road. Among
the prominent tombs here is that of Minister Romero Rubio. which is generally covered

The Noche Tfiste Tn

132

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

Monuments in the Spanish Cemetery.

with magnificent flowers. Dolores Cemetery, west of Tacubaya, the great burying ground
of the poorer classes, is a particularly interesting place on All Souls' and All Saints' Days,
when the entire population of Mexico City turns out to honor its dead.

THE AMERICAN CEMETERY. On the western edge of the city, on the Calzada de
San Cosme, is a little patch of ground possessing peculiar interest for Americans, and
especially for those who reside in Mexico. Though on Mexican soil, it is American in
the fullest sense of the word, for the full and perfect title is vested in the United States
of America. It is the only piece of ground that the United States Government owns,
located in a foreign country. The cemetery was established in 3851, under an act of

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

133

Congress. Seven hundred and fifty soldiers, killed in the war of '47, are buried together in
a single grave. In memory of them a simple granite shaft, six feet in height, has been
raised. On one side is the inscription :

TO THE MEMORY

of the

AMERICAN SOLDIERS
Who Perished in This Valley in 1847,

Whose Bones,
Collected by Their Country's Order,

are Here Buried.

On the other side is a marble tablet, inserted in the granite, on which is written without
comment, "CONTRERAS, CHURUBUSCO, MOLINO DEL REY, CHAPULTEPEC,
MEXICO."

In the American cemetery are buried many well-known Americans who have died in
Mexico. In 1899 the cemetery was closed for burial purposes, except for the remains of
old soldiers. A new American cemetery has since been opened near the historic town of
Tacuba, about thirty minutes' ride from 'the city. It contains forty-six acres of land. By
a special concession from the Mexican Government, British subjects, as well as American
citizens,, may be interred in these grounds.

The new cemetery has been beautifully laid out, and, as it appears to-day, it compares
well with the best American and European cemeteries. The . management has displayed
great originality in laying out the grounds, which have more the appearance of a beautiful
park than a cheerless burying ground; and at the same time the site is invested with all
the sacredness pertaining to a burial place for the dead.

Inspecting Police on the Paseo.

AMUSEMENTS.

IUNDAY is Mexico's day of recreation. As in all Catholic
countries, the people, as a rule, go to church in the morning,
but seek amusement of some sort in the afternoon. Sunday's
pleasures take the form of the bullfight or the theater
perhaps a combination of both, if the purse can stand it. It
is only on Sunday that the bull-fight takes place, and the
average American tourist leaves his religious scruples at his
hotel and starts for the Plaza de Toros, as the bull-ring is
called, which are located in all the principal cities of Mexico.
While the bull-fight does not receive the same patronage
in the City of Mexico that it once did, when three rings were
in full blast every Sunday, it is still, without doubt, the ideal
sport of the masses. The opening of the new "Romita" ring
in Mexico City in December, 1899, showed how popular the
sport still is in the Capital. With the prices at $5 and $8 for
the shady side, the vast amphitheater was packed with 20,000
people. The crowd was a representative one and included
President Porfirio Diaz and many other distinguished
Government officials. It is only the very best fights, in which famous matador es take part,
that the President and the higher classes attend. The ordinary fights, given at the end of
the season, are, as a rule, miserable affairs, which draw only the rabble and the middle
classes. Bull-fighting lives in Mexico despite attempts which have been made to suppress it.
An honest effort has been made by the Government to stop the sport by the enactment of
laws, but no sooner were they passed than they were repealed, so great was the pressure of
public demand from the masses.

The Romita Plaza, at which all the fi*ghts are now given, is a new 7 ring built in the
latter part of 1899, on the Picdad, a continuation of the Paseo de Bucareli. It is reached
by street cars from the Plaza Mayor, passing out Independencia street, marked "Toros.''
Fare 10 cents. The ring is an immense amphitheater of wood, which will seat 18,000
people. The ring in the center is 150 feet in diameter, surrounded by a strong board fence,
five feet in height. Next to the ring is a callejon or alley-way, into which the torreros
jump in case they are too closely pursued by the bull. Within the callejon are a half dozen
small barriers, made of wood, behind which the men stand, in case the bull should leap over
the barrier, separating the ring from the callejon. It happens very frequently that the bulls
jump into the callejon, and have to be driven out again. The seats rise in tiers from the
callejon, and at the top are two rows of private boxes, which are entered from a passage
way behind. The large box directly opposite the gate where the bull enters, and draped in
yellow, is the box occupied by the president of the fight. There is no roof to the ring,
and only the boxes are covered. When the sun passes behind the boxes, it throws a shadow
over one-half the ring. This makes what is known as "sombra," or shady side. The balance
of the ring in the hot sun is known as "sol." There is a great difference in the price of the
two sides. The prices of admission depend upon the reputation of the company giving the
performance. They will range from 50 cents to $1.00 in the sun, and from $1.50 to $3.00 in
the shade. There are reserved seats, but the general admission seats are just as good, and
only on the very rarest occasions will they be crowded. A box with six seats can be secured

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

137

for from $15 to $25. Tickets may be purchased at the gate, but it is always best to buy them
in advance at one of the cigar stores about the city. A particular point that should be
made is that the bull-ring should be reached in good time. The fight begins promptly at the
hour advertised, and the entrance of the cuadrilla, or company, is one of the most interesting
things on the program.

As one draws near the Plaza, on the occasion of a big fight, tne noise is almost deafen-
ing. All manner and varieties of carriages drive up and discharge their occupants; street
cars are packed to the roof; thousands come on foot. Hundreds of boys hang about the
entrance just as they do in the United States a half hour before a game of baseball. Indeed,
the bull fight is the ball game of Mexico, and combines the quickness of eye, the steadiness
of hand, and the courage of both base-
ball and lacrosse ; while it is to be
doubted if more human suffering is in-
flicted in it than in the Yankee or
Canadian national game. As to brute
suffering, that is a different thing.

An hour before the fight begins, the
great building commences to fill up
First two companies of soldiers, with
fixed bayonets, and a business-like look
on their faces, are stationed at the par-
tition between the sunny and shady sides.
They are present to prevent any dis-
orders or disapproval of the fight, gen-
erally manifested by throwing seats,
planks and bottles into the ring. In past
years there have been very serious dis-
turbances at bull-fights, and on two oc-
casions the plaza was almost totally de-
stroyed, but now the presence of soldiers
has a wholesome effect. Stationed
around the ring at intervals of fifteen

feet are gendarmes, or policemen, who also assist in keeping order,
generally one of the Government bands in civilian attire.

As the ring gradually fills up, the crowd gets impatient and yells out of pure exuber-
ance of feeling. A few moments before the advertised time of the fight, the president or
director of the funcion, accompanied by a staff of well-known lovers of the sport, arrives
and takes the front seat in a box. His appearance is greeted with cheers. The president
is generally one of the city's aldermen, who presides at each performance to see that the
municipal regulations covering bull-fighting are carried out, and to adjust any differences
which might arise between the public and the empresario. He is in supreme charge of the
corrida, gives permission for the bulls to be killed, the horses to be removed, and for the
banderilleros to , retire. If the bull is not satisfactory, he gives the signal for it to be
sent out, and a substitute admitted. Below his box, and connected with it by a speaking
tube, is a stand where the bugler, who announces the changes, is stationed.

A moment after the president arrives, the bugle is blown and every eye is turned
towards the gate through which the cuadrilla or company enters. The gates fly open and a
gaudily dressed horseman, who looks as though he might have just stepped out of some
old Spanish picture, rides in. He is superbly mounted, and makes his beautiful steed caper
and dance around the ring in most graceful fashion. He is the alguazil and. is only seen
in the best bull fights. He rides directly in front of the director's box, takes off his

Bull Fighters on the Street.

A large band is present,

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

plumed hat with a graceful sweep, and asks permission to commence the fight. It is granted
and the key of the corral, where the bulls are kept, is tossed to him. The horse is backed
out of the arena and the doors are closed. Then the band breaks into the magnificent
;nd inspiring Bull Fighters' March, from Carmen. The doors are again thrown open, and

the gayly arrayed cuadrilhi
enters. It is a brilliant spec-
tacle, and one that appeals to
the sense of beauty. First
comes the alguazil, on his
fine horse, then the mgta-
dorcs, or cspadas, the stars
of the company, resplendent
in their costumes of silk and
satin, gold and velvet; next
i he bandcrilleros, then the
'capadorcs, then the picado-
res, on their miserable
ponies, innocent of the mis-
ery before them; and lastly,
the gayly caparisoned mules,
whose duty it is to drag the
dead horses and bulls from
the arena. The mules are in
charge of a party of attend-
ants, dressed in yellow suits,
with red trimmings, who are
called monos sabios, "wise
monkeys." The costumes
worn by the torreros are of
the finest material, and some
of them cost as high as
$1.000. They are of Andalu-
sian origin, consisting of
bright satin jackets, short
full knee breeches, both
richly adorned with gold
braid, fringes, tassel?
and arabesques, a
colored silk scarf,
and silk stock-
ings. On the
head is worn

Joaquin Hernandez "1'arrao.

inontcra, a three-cornered
black velvet cocked hat;
while thrown over the shoul-

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

130

ders is a costly mantle of silk or satin. The cuadrilla march across the ring, until
they are before the director's box, where they bow, and then disperse. Their beautiful
capes are thrown to friends among the spectators, and are replaced by cheaper and stronger
ones: The picadorcs grasp their long lances, and brace their horses against the barrier
that surrounds the ring. Tension of every
nerve and anxious expectation is felt by
every one. Then the ringing notes of the
bugle break the spell. The gates of the pen
are thrown open and the great bull springs
into the ring. As he passes under the por-
tals of the entrance a steel barb, covered with
ribbon, indicating the hacienda on which he-
was raised, is plunged into his shoulder.

As the bull dashes into the ring the noise
that greets him is terrific. He pauses and
glances around in wonder and defiance.
There is really no finer sight in the world
than the magnificent animal lashing his tail
and shaking his shaggy head with mingled
rage and surprise. He looks as if he defies
'the world. Suddenly one of the capadorcs
throw's his cape in front of him, and the
fight is on.

A bull fight is divided into three distinct
parts. The first part is the work undertaken
by Ihe picadorcs, or men on horseback. The
picadorcs ride in front of the bull on their
horses, and incite the bull to charge. They
are armed w r ith long spears and are expected
to place the point of the spear in the bull's
shoulder and keep his horns from reaching
Ihe horse. There are, however, few good pica-
dorcs in the profession at the present time,
and in nearly every instance they are not
strong enough to hold off the bull, but allow
him to gore their horses. The horses used
are miserable creatures, generally recruited
from yellow hacks. They are blindfolded,
and it can truthfully be said are ridden
against the bull's horns simply to be gored
and killed. This part of the fight is the
one most abhorred by Americans, as it is
entirely against their instincts to see a poor,
defenseless animal killed or maimed in such
a brutal fashion. Very often the horses are
entirely disemboweled. Despite the fact that
the killing of horses is a most cruel pro-
cedure, it is, nevertheless, necessary to some
extent. Unless the bulls are tired out by the
picadores, it is very difficult and dangerous
for the other fighters to perform their feats. Francisco Consoles "Pataterillo.'

140

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

Rafael Gomez, "El Gallito."

The second part of the fight is a most graceful and daring spectacle. Here the
banderilleros occupy the center of the stage. Banderillos are pieces of wood the size of a
broom stick and less than a yard long, in the end of which are affixed steel barbs, two
inches in length. The sticks are covered with bright-colored tissue paper. The banderilleros
take the banderillos, one in each hand, and stand in front of the bull, and when the animal
charges place the banderillos just at the top of the shoulder blades. They must put the two

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

141

banderillos exactly together, and save themselves from the bull's horns by jumping to one
side. There are half a dozen ways in which the banderillos can be placed, but in every
instance they must be located m the same spot on the bull's anatomy, and if one stick is put
out of place the performer is greeted with hisses and jeers.

The third and final part of the bull fight is the killing of the animal by the matador, or
star fighter. His entrance into the ring is amid the most tremendous plaudits. He is
armed with the crimson flag, called the muleta, and a two-edged sword, three feet long, and
as keen as a razor. While the capadores are playing with the bull on the other side of the
ring, the matador advances to some part of the ring, and makes a little speech, dedicating
the bull to some person present, arid telling the people that he will kill it in the
most approved style. Then tossing his cap behind him, he walks across the ring

A Group of Bull-fighters.

and commences his work. It can readily be seer- that he is master of the art. He
is more graceful than a dancing master, and as nimble as a cat. First he makes
some brilliant passes with the muleta, and as the bull charges on the red flag the
matador steps to one side, lifting the muleta entirely over the bull's body. Finally, when
the bull is entirely worn out, he awaits his opportunity, and as the bull charges for the last
time, the matador drives the sword to the hilt between the bull's shoulder blades, piercing
the heart or lungs. When well done the bull drops instantly and soon expires. Very
often, however, it is necessary for the matador to make three or four attempts before he
is successful. If the stroke has been a good one the enthusiasm of the audience is
great, and the matador is for a moment a great hero. Cigars, money and hats are
thrown into the ring, and he is compelled to walk around the arena in response to the
cheers of the spectators. The bull is drawn out by the mules, and the first act of the

142

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

tragedy is over. There are generally six bulls killed at each performance, and the fight
lasts about two hours and a half.

THEATERS. There are two theaters in the city at which there are performances
all the year around, the Principal, on Coliseo Nuevo, opposite the San Carlos Hotel,
and next to the Coliseo Hotel, and the Teatro Arbeu, on Calle San Felipe Neri. At both
of these theaters there are given tandas, or one-act comic operas. The performers are, for
the most part, Spaniards. Admission is 25 cents for the first tanda, or act. If you want
to stay for the second act, you remain in your seat and a collector comes around and
collects 25 cents for the next act. One tanda will usually satisfy the curiosity of any
tourist who does not understand Spanish. The Renacimiento, on Puerta Falsa de San
Andres, is the principal and most fashionable theater in the city. It has a seating
capacity of 2,000, a large foyer and a handsome portal. At least one good Italian and one
good French grand opera company fill engagements there for several months each year.
There are also a number of other Spanish and Mexican dramatic companies that can be
seen at the Renacimiento at times during each season. The Mexican Government is now
constructing a new National Opera House on Puente de San Francisco, adjoining the Ala-
meda, which will be one of the most magnificent theaters in the world.

ORRINS' THEATER-CIRCUS. A place of amusement that appeals to every for-
eigner visiting Mexico is the Theater and Circus of Orrin Bros., on the Plaza Villamil,
three blocks north from the corner of First San Francisco and Santa Isabel streets. The
Orrins came to Mexico many years ago and established their circus on a small scale.
Gradually it has grown and improved until ' they now occupy their present handsome
building of iron and stone, which has a seating capacity of 3,500. The arrangement of the
building is very unique. There are both a stage and a ring, the seats ranging around
the ring in tiers. One act is given on the stage and the next in the ring. It is really
more of a variety show similar to vaudeville performances in New York than a
circus, and all the artists come to Mexico directly from the continent and the United
States. At times the ring is turned into a miniature lake, with a waterfall of real water
falling from the stage into it. The circus is open every night from January to May,
and there are matinees on Thursdays and Sundays. Admission ranges from 25 cents to
$1.50, according to the seats.

Selling Poultry.

THE VALLEY OF MEXICO.

() richer and more varied spectacle can be found than that
which offers the Valley of Mexico," says Humboldt in his
Political Essays of New Spain, and his opinion is identic?.!
with all the celebrated world wanderers who have visited
this section of the globe. As Riedel says in his eminently
reliable guide to Mexico :

"The valley represents a panorama as extraordinarily
rich in colors and forms as in striking contrasts ; from
evergreen fields to eternal snow, from luxurious fruit and
flower-gardens to bare brown lava-beds, or white alcali-
deserts ! It is unhappily impossible to see from the plain
or its smaller elevations over the whole valley, as the per-
spective is obstructed by many promontories and scattered
hills and it is necessary to take a view from various points^
to perceive all the beauties of the landscape. The view
changes as often as you alter the point of observation. You must at least see it
once from the stately Cathedral, once from the romantic Castle of Chapultepec and
once from the sacred hill of Tepeyac; thereafter you will enjoy a glance once more
from the high cemetery of Dolores or from the idylic 'Hacienda de la Castaneda/
from the historical 'Star-Hill' (Cerro de la Estrella), the island-crater of Xico or the bare
rock of Penon de los Banos, from the curious 'Baths of Netzahualcoyoti' (Texcoyxingo) or
the mysterious 'Pyramid of the Sun' (Teotihuacan)."

In the Valley of Mexico there are many excursions that can be made by the tourist,
which will prove extremely interesting. For instance, Guadalupe Hidalgo, the -home of the
Shrine of the Virgin of Guadalupe, the garden cities, Tlanepantla, Atzcalpotzalco, Tacuba,
Tacubaya, Tlalpam, Xochimilco, San Angel Coyoacan and many others. There is L:i
Viga Canal, with its "floating" gardens, El Desierto, and dozens of other picturesque spots.
Street cars and railroads cross the valley in .all directions and all the points of interest
mentioned here are easy of access.

The Valley of Mexico is entirely surrounded by mountains. Its greatest length is 71
miles, and its greatest breadth 45 miles. In its central portion there are 810 square miles.
Over one-sixth of this mileage is covered by lakes. There are six lakes, which succeed one
another from north to south. The largest and lowest, Lake Texcoco, is situated nearly in
the center of the valley.

Among the first objects that attract the eye are the giant snow-capped mountains,
Popocatepetl and Ixtaccihuatl. The former, known as the Smoking Mountain, is about
fifty miles from the city, and, according to Humboldt, is 17,540 feet high, or about 10,325
feet over the Valley of Mexico. Popocatepetl has not had any serious eruptions in the last
century. It is not entirely dead, however, and sulphur fumes still arise from the crater. It
has been frequently ascended, and every year many parties are organized to make the trip.
The Interoceanic Railroad is -taken to Amecameca, from whence the start is made. To the
snow-line, about 14,104 feet high, the journey is made on horseback, and then there is a
climb of three hours to the crater.

Adjoining Popocatepetl is the famcais Ixtaccihuatl (White Woman). Its height is 16,070
feet, and on its sides are several real glaciers. Its ascent is very difficult and its highest
point has never been made.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

145

COLEGIATE CHURCH OF GUADALUPE. At a distance of two miles and a half
from the city, and easily reached by electric cars (fare 10 cents), starting in front of the
Cathedral, is the Church of Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, one of the most famous shrines
in the world. It is the Lourdes of Mexico, and from the time of the opening of the little
chapel, which first housed the painting, it has become a pilgrimage to the Mexicans, and
many are the miracles of healing related to have occurred through the intercession of Our
Lady of Guadalupe. The present church is a comparatively modern structure, and is the
fourth one that has been built on the spot where
the Virgin first made her appearance. It fronts
on the main Plaza of the City of Guadalupe,
and is a massive stone structure, with a tall
tower, on each corner, filled with bells. The
center lagade through which is the main en-
trance is of stone and marble, handsomely
sculptured. Immediately above the main en-
trance is a sculptural representation of the scene
in the Bishop's house when Juan Diego .let the
roses fall from his tilma, disclosing, the image
of the Virgin.

THE LEGEND OF GUADALUPE. On
the morning of Saturday the ninth of Decem-
ber, 1531, an Indian neophyte, Juan Diego, was
on his way to hear the gospel expounded by
the Franciscans. His home was at Tolpetlac
and he had to pass the hill of Tepeyac. On
reaching the eastern side of the hill, he heard
strains of music like the notes of a chorus of
birds. He stood still to listen and beheld on
the hillside a beautiful lady surrounded by
clouds tinged with the color of the rainbow.

The lady called Juan and as her presence
was commanding and gracious he at once obeyed.
She addressed him as follows : "Know, my son,

that I am the Virgin Mary, Mother of the true God. My will is that a temple should be
built on this spot, where you and all your race will always be able to find me . and seek my
aid in your troubles. Go to the Bishop and in my name tell what you have seen and
heard. Tell him, too, that it is my wish that a church be built for me here and for doing
this you will be repaid with many graces." Juan sought the Bishop, and after some trouble
in gaining admission told his story. Very little attention was paid to it. He returned to his
village that afternoon, and again saw the vision in the same spot where she had been in the
morning. He related to her the slight attention which the Bishop had given to his errand
and asked the lady to be pleased to choose another messenger. But she replied that he
must not be dejected; to return to the episcopal residence and deliver her message again
on the following day.

It was Sunday and Juan rose early, and after he had heard mass in the parish church,
repaired to the house of the Bishop, and again related his story with great earnestness.
This time the prelate paid more attention to the Indian's narrative, and -told him if the lady
appeared again he was to ask for a sign. With this Juan was dismissed and the Bishop sent
two servants after him to watch what he did and whither he went. This the servants did
and followed him to the bottom of the hill, when suddenly he became invisible to them.

Stairs Leading to the Chapel.

The Altar at Guadalupe.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

147

Our Lady of Giiadalupe,

They searched everywhere for him but rinding no trace of him, returned to the Bishop and
said that they believed that he, Juan, was an imposter and a devil.

But while Juan was invisible to the servants he was engaged once more in conversation
with the lady. He told her that the Bishop had directed him to ask for a sign, and she told
him to return the next morning and she would give him a sign that .would win full credit for
his mission. When he reached home he found his uncle seriously ill and he had to remain
near his bedside and could not return for the promised token. His uncle grew steadily worse"
and on the twelfth of December, 1531, he started out to secure a priest to hear the confession.

148

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

The Chapel on the Hill of Guadalupe.

The road to the dwelling of the priest was up the hill of Tepeyac, and fearful of meeting the
vision again he determined to pass by another route. But this did not avail him, for near
the spot where a spring now bubbles he saw the vision for the fourth time. The lady did
not seem at all offended with Juan for not having come as she had directed. She told him
not to be anxious about his uncle as at that moment he was sound and well. She then went
on to speak about the sign or token that the Bishop wished and told Juan to climb to the
top of the hill where a small chapel now stands and he would there find roses growing. She
directed him to gather them all, to fill his tilma, or coarse garment, that hung from his
neck, and to carry the flowers to the Bishop. Juan knew well that it was not the time
for flowers and that the barren and rocky spot never produced them; but he immediately did
as the lady ordered and found the spot blooming with the most beautiful roses. He
gathered them one by one, filled his tilma and repaired to the Bishop. The prelate received
him and the Indian relating what had happened, opened out his tilma. The flowers fell to
the ground and it was then seen that a picture of the vision had appeared miraculously on
the coarse fabric of the tilma. The Bishop fell upon his knees and spent some time in
prayer. He then untied the tilma from the neck of the Indian and temporarily placed it over
the altar of his private chapel.

Bishop Zumarraga at once set to work to build a chapel at the foot of the hill where the
present church of Guadalupe stands. Fourteen years later it was opened with great cere-
mony and the picture transported to its new resting place, and placed over the altar. For
ninety years the piety of the Mexicans was displayed toward the picture in a small chapel.
But the offerings of the faithful soon provided a sumptuous shrine for its reception. Alter-
ations have been made and the building is now one of the most beautiful churches in the
world.

The legend is generally believed by Catholics all over the Republic of Mexico and
among the lower classes their belief reaches complete adoration. Guadalupe is considered
a thorough Mexican divinity.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

149

In 1663 the pope first recognized the miracle and granted that the twelfth of December
should forever be the festival of the Mexican Virgin. After the pestilence (matlazahuatl) of
1736 the Mexican clergy and people elected Her solemnly as patroness and finally by the bull
of May 25, 1754, the miracle was sanctioned and confirmed by the pope. On September 16,
1810, the political priest Hidalgo took from his altar a picture of this Virgin for his banner
and made her the protectress of the revolution and the independence. Our Lady of

Guadalupe became thus the symbol of the Mexican
Church and Nation. Emperor Iturbide created in
1822 an order of the Virgin of Guadalupe as highest
decoration. The first president changed his name:
"Felix Fernandez," to Guadalupe Victoria. On
November 27, 1824, the Congress decreed the twelfth
of December to be a National holiday. The presi-
dents Guerrero, Alvarez, Comonfort and also Em-
peror Maximilian made solemn and official pilgrim-
ages to this sanctuary.

. THE INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH. The in-
terior of the present church is perfect. The arched
roof is surmounted by a dome and lantern 125 feet
from the floor. The supports are massive Corinthian
columns. The nave is 200 feet long by 122 wide,
with three aisles. The central nave is bordered by
two rows of four high pilasters, joined by lofty
arches which carry the Roman vault. The magnifi-
cent high altar and tabernacle are made from the
designs of the architect, Tolsa, about the year 1802.
In 1887 the renovation of the church was com-
menced and it was completed in 1895. On entering
the great doorway, there is a bewildering sense of
the gorgeous magnificence of the scenic interior and
one stands almost in awe, so great is the beauty of
the ensemble. Everyone has a fixed idea of seeing
the famous picture of the Virgin, but in the moment
it is forgotten in the glorious harmony of colors.

The magnificent altar, holding the sacred tilma, is the first object that attracts the atten-
tion. It is the mass of white marble, exquisitely carved and wrought with gilded bronze
executed in Italy from designs by the Mexican artists, Agea and Salome Pina. On the
left, or gospel side, of the altar is the figure of Juan Zumarraga ; on the epistle, or right side,
that of Juan Diego, both done in white marble. Immediately in front is the marble statue
of Archbishop Labastida y Davalos, by Nicoli. At the top of the frame, holding the image
on the tilma are the reliefs of three angels representing the Archdioceses of Mexico,
Michoacan and Guadalajara, which were chiefly instrumental in securing the papal authority
for the Coronation. The picture of the Virgin, so miraculously placed on the rough gar-
ment of the Indian, stands in a great frame over the altar. No one can look at it without
feeling that there is something wonderful about its construction. The material on which
the picture is placed is a rough, coarse cloth, with meshes very far apart. The same
material is now used in Mexico, and some of the Indians at the church will be wearing the
same sort of garment as worn by Juan Diego. The image appears on this material without
any preparation or background whatever. In fact, it shows both sides exactly the same. A
number of artists and scientific men of great repute have examined it and they all have
deposed, under oath, that they cannot account for its production. They say that it repre-

The Stone Sails.

150

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

The Chapel of the Well.

sents no known style of art and that there is no other picture in the world that has the same
characteristics. Four different kinds of painting are discernible in different portions of the
same canvas, and in addition, the gilding which appears in the stars embroidered in the
garment and the texture of the robe itself, as well as the rays of light which artistically fall
on the picture, appears to be woven rather than to be painted.

More wonderful than its beauty and the exquisite detail work is the manner in which
it has been preserved. For years it was exposed without any covering, not only to the
smoke of the censors and the innumerable candles borne by the faithful, but to the damp air t
charged with saltpetre, which continually arises from the neighboring lakes and marshes,
and which corrodes the heaviest substances. And yet, after a period of more than three
hundred and sixty years this product of the maguey plant, which ought to have perished

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

151

long ago, is still in a perfect state of preservation, and retains all its freshness and beauty.

Underneath the high altar is a crypt, which contains thirty urns for the reception of
the ashes of the thirty persons who give $5,000 each to the cost of the high altar and the
baldachin. The blue vaults of the roof are studded with gold stars in relief; in fact, they
are stars of cedar fastened to the roof. The dome is a mass of gilding, and the panels
frescoed with figures of the Virgin of Guadalupe and of the Angels with scrolls and alle-
gorical attributes of the Virgin.

Five splendid frescoes adorn the walls of the Basilica. The first fresco on the right on
entering, by the artist Don Felipe Gutierrez, is a representation of the conversion of the
Indians under the influence of the Virgin of Guadalupe. The second on the right shows the
conveying of the tilma, with the sacred image, December 26, 1531, from the kouse of the
Bishop Zumarraga to the first church built for its keeping. It is a solemn picture, with the
image borne under a canopy, and is a splendid piece of work by a young Jesuit priest. The

One of Mexico City's Imposing Funeral Street Cars.

first fresco from the entrance on the left, or west side of the church, shows the presenta-
tion of the copy of the tilma and the image to Pope Benedict XIV, by the Jesuit John
Francisco Lopez, 1751, in soliciting the Papal authority for the festival, and recognition of
the Virgin of Guadalupe. The second on the left represents the salvation of the people
from the dreadful plague, matlasahuatl, in 1737, by the invocation of the Virgin of Guada-
lupe, who placed the city under her protection and the pestilence departed from the land.
The picture is a striking one of historic and artistic merit and its' colors are brilliant. The
fresco nearest the altar, on the west side, represents the taking of the evidence in 1666 of
the vision, for the purpose of sending to Rome for papal recognition. The five frescoes
are the gifts of the Diocese of Zacatecas, Archdiocese of Durango, Diocese of Yucatan.
Bishop of San Luis Potosi and the Diocese of Queretaro, and bear the names of their
donors.

On the wall, between two of the frescoes, is an inscription in Latin, which says : "The
Mexican people, in honor of the Virgin of Guadalupe, who in old time appeared on the
Hill of Tepeyac to Juan Diego, erected a Holy Temple, and with all piety venerated the
image. One of the most conspicuous of its cult was the Archbishop Pelagic Antonio de

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

153

Labastida y Davalos, a most munificent restorer of this collegiate church. Now at length
as all had wished, and as the Chapter of the Vatican Basilica has decreed in A. D. 1740,
the famous image, with the sanction of the Supreme Pontiff, Leo XIII, was crowned with a
diadem of gold, on the fourth day before the ides of October, 1895, Prospero M. Alarcon
being Archbishop of Mexico, to stand forever as the shield, the protection and the honor
of the Mexican people." On each side of this inscription are the names of those who have
helped in the building of the church.

THE VIRGIN'S CROWN. Just above the picture of the Virgin hangs her crown,
which was manufactured by Morgan, the Paris jeweler. It is formed of gold and gems
contributed by the ladies of Mexico.

The crown is an imperial diadem. The rim at the base consists of twenty-two enameled
shields representing the twenty-two bishoprics of Mexico. Above comes a circle of angels
issuing from roses. Between the angels, and supported by them, are six enameled shields

A Child's Funeral.

emblazoned with the arms of the six archbishoprics of Mexico. At the top is an enameled
globe whereon Mexico and the Gulf are represented. Above comes the Mexican eagle,
grasping the globe with one talon, while the other holds aloft a diamond cross. At the
top of the cross is a ring, whereby a cherub holds the crown above the picture. The shields
are surrounded with diamonds and connected with rows of sapphires and emeralds. In the
breast of each angel flames a ruby.

Adjoining the church on the east side is the ancient convent, called in olden times,
Santa Coleta, later as the Capuchinas dc Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe. It was founded in
1780 and suppressed February 26, 1862. Convent and church were dedicated, 1887. This
old structure is after the conventional style of church architecture in Mexico, and has
principally its antiquity to interest the visitor. Just beyond the little park of trees on the
east of the church is the Capilla del Pocito, the chapel of the well, built over the miraculous
spring 1777-91, according to the plans of F. Guerrero y Torres; renovated 1880-82. Its
three domes are covered with blue and yellow tiles. The entrance hall encloses the mineral
spring with brackish soda water of 70 degrees Fahrenheit. It is said that any visitor drinking

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

155

from this well will surely return to Mexico. The higher central dome covers the entire
chapel. In the latter are four oil paintings showing the four apparitions and in the
sacristy is a picture of the immortal "John." West from the chapel, on the southeastern
slope of the hill, is the main ascent of steps, built at the end of the last century and
generally besieged at its beginning by Indian women (who bake little sweet cakes of Indian
corn called Oucsadillas and Tortillitas} ; further, sellers of the beneficent earth (called
Jabon and Tierrita) jmH^jnymy j^jniiq hpggaf3^_ Near the summit, at the right from the
stairs, appears a mast with sails of masonry, constructed in the last century as votive

An Old Patio Near Guadalupe.

offering by the crew of a ship, which was wrecked in a heavy storm, but reached the
harbor safely.

The hill is crowned by the Capilla del Cerrito, the Chapel of the Little Hill, which.
is built on the spot where the roses sprang up at the Virgin's word for Juan Diego to :
gather and take to the Bishop in token of her wish for a temple there.

To the west of the Chapel of the Hill is the Cemetery of Guadalupe, which contains
some fine marble tombstones. Here under a simple slab rest the remains of General
Santa Anna.

In front of the chapel and cemetery a beautiful view over the valley is to be enjoyed.
On the western ascent, near the foot of the hill, is the fanciful Casa de los Tepalcates

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

157

(entrance fee
and figures.

6 cents), ornamented with fragments of porcelain, forming arabesques

LA VIGA CANAL. La Viga and the "Floating Gardens" should form one of the
trips in the itinerary of every tourist. They are easily reached by the Peralvillo y Viga
cars from the southeast corner of the Zocalo. As soon as you leave the car, the crowd
surges around you, imploring you to hire their boats. Arrangement should be made
before taking a boat for the fare to be collected. The usual rates for the exclusive use
of a boat is 50 cents for the round trip to Santa Anita and $1 for the round trip to the
floating gardens. The boats are low, long and flat on the bottom, with an awning
overhead, and gaily decked with flags and streamers. The boatmen use only one long
pole with which they push the craft along. La Viga is the great navigable waterway
for traffic between the city and the outlying towns' and villages on the shore of Lakes
Chalco and Xochimilco, flowing from those lakes to Lake Texcoco. The usual Viga
voyage is to Santa Anita, and the novelty of a boat ride is most interesting.

Almost immediately after getting under way the boat passes through the Garita de
la Viga, where boats bringing merchandise of any sort to the city were formerly halted

Mexico's Rurales on Review.

for the receipt of the city tax. The first town reached is Santa Anita, a Mexican,
version of Coney Island. To this pretty place the lower and middle classes resort in
large numbers on Sunday and feast-day afternoons. It is a little town of straw-thatched
houses, nearly every one of which is a shop or a .restaurant (and many of them drinking
places also), and everywhere there is a pervading smell of tamales. There are swings,
and places where lively games are played, and flower stands where on certain days men
and women buy garlands of brilliant-hued poppies to crown each other; and everywhere
is a crowd made up of flower-crowned people, genuinely merry and light of heart.
The church of Santa Anita is a quaint old building with a fine tower. A half mile
beyond the town are the chinampas, the "floating gardens" that once really did float, but
that now are little patches of garden ground separated by narrow canals. Here are
grown flowers and vegetables for the city market, and for sale at home on Sundays and
feast-days where the popular vegetables are huge radishes and lettuce. At Ixtacalco,
the next town on the line of the canal, are more chinampas, less gayety, a small market and
a very presentable old church, dedicated to San Matias a Franciscan foundation of more

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

159-

Secn Near Santa Anita.

than three hundred years ago. In front of the church is a little plaza with a fountain of
sweet water in its midst; and away from the plaza, along the lane that is marked by a
palm tree at its beginning, is a small, curious building that once was the chapel of
Santiago. It is used as a dwelling now, and right in among its numerous inhabitants is
the remnant of what seems to 'have been a most gallant image of Santiago now galloping
to defend the faith on a headless horse. Mexicalcingo, about seven miles south of the
city, was a place of some importance before the Conquest, but now is an insignificant
little town of less than three hundred inhabitants. On a Sunday or feast-day afternoon,
the return trip, especially from Santa Anita to this city, is one of the memorable sights of
Mexico. The canal is crowded thickly with boats of all sorts and sizes, and the boats
are crowded w r ith garlanded merrymakers tinkling guitars, singing, and on the larger
boats, even dancing.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE. 161

TACUBAYA. This town is one of the nearest suburbs of the city and is just south
of Chapultepec. It contains a population of. about 12,000 people, and many of the
wealthier Mexicans have their homes here. It is easily reached, in twenty minutes' time,
by electric cars starting from the Plaza Mayor. There are many things of interest to
be seen in Tacubaya, among them the National Observatory, which is housed in the ex-
palace of the archbishop. The chief charm of Tacubaya is found in its numerous very
beautiful private gardens huertas, large inclosures, half garden, half park, belonging to
rich citizens of Mexico, who come here for recreation and rest. The more notable of
these (to which admission may be obtained by a card from the several owners) are the
huertas of the families Ignacio de la Torre y Mier, Escandon, Bardet and Mier y Celis.
The last named of these is truly a magnificent park, unfortunately for the tourist, sur-
rounded by a high wall. In the western part of the town, reached by a branch line of cars,
is the arbol bendito, "The Blessed Tree." Legend says that a long while ago, one fiercely
hot day of summer, a holy priest paused beneath this tree and in its cool shade became
rested and refreshed. Therefore as he went away, comforted, he turned and blessed the
tree and bade it evermore be green, and straightway there gushed out from among its
roots a most sweet and copious spring. Those who doubt this legend must reconcile with
their doubt the facts that the tree is always green, and that the sweet spring continues to
flow.

SAN ANGEL. This pretty little town, reached by electric cars starting from the Zocalo,
about twelve miles south of Mexico, is built upon a hillside in the midst of orchards and
gardens, and is at the foot hills of the Cerro de Ajusco. Its most attractive feature is
the picturesque convent of Nuestra Seiiora del Carmen, which was built in 1615. The
monastery which joins it is deserted and is fast falling into decay. From behind this
monastery a very beautiful view is obtained. The church was renovated in 1857, and
possesses some good paintings by Mexican artists. From San Angel a number of pleasant
excursions can be made. East from San Angel is the picturesque town of Coyoacan.

COYOACAN. This pretty village is reached by electric cars, starting from the south
side of the Plaza Mayor. Coyoacan is even older than the City of Mexico, and Cortez
established his seat of Government here, and directed the laying out of the present City of
Mexico. His house may still be seen at the northern side of the little plaza. It is now
occupied by the town offices. Over the doorway, blurred by many coats of whitewash,
are engraved the arms of the Conqueror. It was in this house that Cuauhtemoc, the last
King of the Aztecs, \vas kept prisoner, with many other chieftains, and was tortured with
the Chief of Tacuba in order to reveal supposed hidden treasures. Both were tied to
beams, their hands and feet were oiled, and then roasted under fire. The old chief of
Tacuba was not able to bear this horrible suffering and looked towards Cuauhtemoc, as if
he wished to ask him to satisfy the thirst of the Christian barbarians for gold. The
heroic Aztec Prince coolly replied, "Am I, perhaps, taking my pleasure in my bath?" Next
to this house, on the west, is another house in which Cortez dwelt, and the well is pointed
out in the garden in which he is said to have drowned his wife, because she reproached his
amours with the Indian girls. Opposite the Palace of Cortez, and on the south of the
plaza, is the large and imposing church of the Dominican, known as San Juan Bautista.
In the churchyard is a stone cross, placed there by Cortez.

^ u

SIDE TRIPS FROM MEXICO CITY.

AMECAMECA. Thirty-six
miles from the City of
Mexico on the Inter-
oceanic Railway, at the foot
of the giant Popocatapetl is
the pretty little town of
Amecameca. It is from here
that the start is made for
the ascent of the volcano. To
the right of the track is the vener-
ated Cerro del Sacromonte, the
sacred mountain. Just below the
station is a stone-paved causeway,
marked at intervals by the sta-
tions of the cross, that leads to
the shrine on the top of the hill.
This causeway was built for the
processions that during the fiestas
of Holy Week pass between the
shrine and the parish church.

CORDOVA. On the border
of the hot country, 198 miles from
the City of Mexico, on the line
of the Mexican Railway, is Cordova. Here may be found the luxurious vegetation of the
tropics. Within a square of the market there is one of the most beautiful gardens in the
world.

CUAUTLA. On the Interoceanic Railway, eighty-five miles from Mexico City, Cuautla
is located. It is a favorite resort for residents of the Capital. Within a short distance
from the town are the sulphur baths which are of fine medicinal qualities.

CUERNAVACA. Four hours from the City of Mexico, on a branch of the Mexican
Central, that was formerly the Mexico, Cuernavaca & Pacific, is the beautiful city of
Cuernavaca. Many claim quite justly, too that the scenery between Mexico City
and Cuernavaca is the most wonderful in the Republic of Mexico. The ascent
from the Valley of Mexico to La Cima, which is 10,000 feet above the sea level, is a most
picturesque ride. La Cima is at the very top of the mountain Ajusco, and the view from
there, of the cities which dot the valley, the lakes and volcanoes make a picture that is
not easily described.

Cuernavaca itself is interesting and picturesque. Its streets are wide and clean. : The
principal points of interest are the Palace of Cortez, finished 366 years ago, and the Borda
Gardens. An admission fee of 25 cents is charged to enter the latter, and it is well worth
paying. The gardens were the creation of Don Jose de la Borda, a Frenchman, who came
to Mexico in the beginning of the eighteenth century, a poor boy. He became a miner
and in time the possessor of sixty millions. About the year 1762 he commenced building
the house and gardens, and year after year devoted his time and money to the adorning

Sliding Down Popocatepetl.

I M

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

165

of this paradise. Its beautiful medley of trees, flowers, fruits, water and architecture make
a scene difficult indeed to surpass; while the many historic incidents which: -have taken
place in it lend the glamor of romance to its mossy setting. The gardens are in a bad
state of repair, but enough remains to show their former state of grandeur.

Cortez's Palace at Cuernavaca.

The Palace of Cortez, which is now used as the State capitol, is a fine old building, sur-
rounded by a beautiful garden in which stands a statue of General Carlos Pecheco, one
of the heroes of the State. It was built by Cortez, who made Cuernavaca his home after
the conquest of Mexico by the Spaniards. In one of the rooms the patriot Morelos was
confined as a prisoner of war en route to Mexico City. From the rear portico on the

Maximilian's Home Near Cuernavaca,

second floor a magnificent view of the Valley of Cuernavaca can be obtained, the snow-
capped peaks of Popocatepetl and Ixtaccihuatl forming the background.

There are many interesting trips in the vicinity of Cuernavaca and the State Government
has improved the roads so materially that they can all be made on horse-back or by carriage.
One of the first trips to be made is to the falls and village of San Antonio, two miles

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167

from the plaza. The falls are located a small distance from the road and are worthy of a
climb down the rocks to where a good view can be secured. Their height is about 125 feet.
Half a mile beyond is the village of San Antonio where beautiful pottery can be purchased.
Still further on is a curiosity in the shape of a lizard, about eight feet long, carved in
ston. It is supposed to be prehistoric work, and a fee of 12 cents is charged to see it.
Another interesting trip can be made to the sugar hacienda of Cortez, about five miles
from the city. The property is still owned by the descendants of Cortez, the entire
revenue from tHe property, however, going to the Hospital of Jesus, in the City of Mexico.
On the way to the sugar mill a stop can be made at the summer home of Maximilian, a
pretty little house and garden which Carlota called "Olindo."

GUADALAJARA. Guadalajara, capital of the State of Jalisco, has a population of
about 125,000, and is second only to the City of Mexico in population and importance. It
is located on the Guadalajara branch of the Mexican Central Railway, 161 miles west of
Irapuato and 380 miles from the City of Mexico. It is a beautiful city, well laid out, with
shaded streets, running at right angles, and some of the finest buildings, parks, gardens,

The Nezv Aqueduct at Guadalajara.

etc., in Mexico. Guadalajara lies in the midst of a plain, and, like the City of Mexico, is
almost surrounded by mountains. From the right-hand side of the train a view of the
towers of the Cathedral can be seen long before the city is reached. The Cathedral is a
magnificent structure, which was completed in 1618. The two towers are wholly unlike any
others in Mexico, but are more like the steeples of churches in the United States. They
were thrown down by the earthquake in 1818. The interior is rich in decorations and
paintings. Here hangs the famous "Assumption," by Murillo. It was sent by King
Carlos IV from Spain to the Cathedral at Guadalajara, in grateful acknowledgment of a
large sum of money sent to Spain when that country was invaded by Napoleon. The
''Assumption" is a suburb example of Murillo. A prominent Mexican critic, Sefior
Eduardo Gibbon, in an intimate study of the picture has instituted some comparisons with
Murillo's famous painting in the Louvre. He pronounces its inspirations better and more
spiritual than that of the Louvre painting, and its drawing also superior. In color he
finds it as vigorous and living, with lights and shadows more impressive ; the type of the
Virgin ideally inspired, while that of the Louvre he deems too Spanish in features. The

168

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

The Assumption, by Murillo, in the Guadalajara Cathedral.

group of cherubs in the foreground, while less in number, he calls equal in celestial beauty;
the same figures are represented in both pictures; those of the Louvre absorbed in
adoration and those in the Guadalajara canvas hailing the sublime mother with lilies,
roses and palms. In general tone of composition, Senor Gibbon regards the Guadalajara
painting as more intricate, more allegorical and more important than that of the Louvre.
It is said that $75,000, U. S. currency, was refused for this picture. The picture hangs

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

169

in the sacristy of the basilica and can be seen from 6 A. M. to 10 A. M., and from 2.30 P. M.
to 4.30 P. M.

In Guadalajara is located the largest theater on the western continent, with the excep-
tion of the Metropolitan Opera House in New York City, and the Auditorium, in Chicago.
It is the Delgollado, a handsome building of white stone, with a fine portico, supported by
massive columns. There are five tiers of seats, stalls and boxes and the decorations are
very handsome indeed. The Delgollado was opened in 1866 by the Mexican vocalist, Peralta.
Another interesting place to visit in Guadalajara, is the Hospicio. It is built of white
stone, covering an entire "square, and contains twenty-three patios or courts, with flowers
and fountains. It is an asylum for the poor of all ages, from babies to old men and women.
It is a State institution and is
exceedingly well managed. The
Hospicio is largely supported by
the work of the inmates, who are
taught pursuits that they can ac-
complish. Visitors are cordially
welcomed, and are met at the
entrance by a sister, who will
show the various points of inter-
est. A permit is required from
the Department of Charity in the
Government Palace.

The State Penitentiary will
also prove of interest. It is lo-
cated eight blocks east of the
Jardin Prisciliano Sanchez or
Palace of Justice. Open daily
from 9 A. M. to 11.30 A. M. and
from 2 to 5 P. M. Permit to
enter must be secured from Sec-
retary of State in Government
Palace. The penitentiary is one

of the largest and most modern institutions of its kind in Mexico. It is divided into three
departments, i. e., correctional, for boys, women and criminals whd have been sentenced
for terms of less than twenty years. The latest method of construction has been installed,
there being sixteen corridors of cells, radiating from a common center like the spokes of a
wheel. The penitentiary has a capacity for 3,000 inmates and is about two-thirds filled
at present.

MORELIA. On the Acambaro Division of the Mexican National Railroad, 235 miles
from the City of Mexico, is Morelia, which has the reputation of being one of the most
beautiful spots in the Republic of Mexico. Not only beautiful in its quiet streets, shaded
trees, its - numerous little alamedas, overrun with roses, and its graceful aqueduct ; but
beautiful in its cleanliness and air of general good health that one instinctively feels when
first entering its borders. The city is named in honor of the patriot Morelos, who gave
his life in the great struggle against the Spanish power. It is built upon an elevation
sloping in all directions to the plain below; the drainage could not be improved upon.
Morelia has many attractions. The beautiful plaza, the magnificent Cathedral, the Paseo
de San Pedro, the Causeway of Guadalupe, the pink Aqueduct, are all objects of interest;
but the hospitality of the people, the beauty of its senoritas, its music and its flowers, all
combine to charm the visitor and cause him to wish his home was in their midst. The
Cathedral is beautifully situated, with a plaza overrun with flowers and vines on either

Roses, Twenty-five Cents a Bunch.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

171

side. Its two great towers may be seen from afar off, overtopping the hills, and giving
the first glimpse of the city as the train comes np the valley from the east. The Causeway
of Guadalupe is a paved walk with stone parapets and stone benches on either side, shaded
its entire length by a double row of elms. It was of Morelia that F. Hopkinson Smith, in
kis charming book, "A White Umbrella in Mexico," wrote such delightful sketches. In
his description of the alameda he said that it looked as if the forces of nature, no longer
checked, had held high revel, and, in their glee, had well-night effaced all trace of hedge
or wall.

TOLUCA. The capital of the State of Mexico, forty-five miles from the City of
Mexico, is one of the richest and most prosperous cities in the Republic. It is on the

> i i

Mexican National Railroad and is visited every year by thousands of tourists who make
the trip in order to see the scenery, which is exceedingly beautiful. The line passes
through two famous valleys, that of San Franciscoquito and of Lerma. The former is a
pareterrc of highly cultivated flower bed-like miniature farms. No lordly haciendas flaunt
their white walls here; but little villages and quaint Swiss-like dwellings of the peasant
proprietors are discovered among the group and groves of trees scattered through this
valley. A crazy quilt unrolled from the mountain top would give no greater variety of
shapes and colors than the valley presents. Corn, alfalfa and vegetable beds are there in
kaleidoscopic colors. The pulque plant is the line of demarcation between the cultivated
patches, and the lines, curves and angles they describe look as if a geometrical problem was
spread out before you for solution. No "one only master" here, but for a wonder and a

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

173-

marvel the soil is owned and tilled by the Indian proprietors themselves. Toluca is a
charming city and is well worth a visit. A beautiful linen lace is made by the Indians
in this vicinity and sold at very reasonable prices. Twenty miles from the city is the
volcano of Toluca which has the second largest crater in the world.

GUANAJUATO. This, the fifth city of the Republic, with a population of 50,000,
lies in a mountain ravine fourteen miles east from Silao, on the Mexican Central Railway.
The locomotive will take you only to the suburb, Marfil, eleven miles. There you take a
street car and the mules do the rest. The road up the ravine to the city is a wonderful
piece of engineering which took eighty-five years to complete.

Guanajuato is one of those terraced places t'here it would be convenient for people to
have one leg shorter than the other. The residents must be both climbers and creepers.

The Mummies as They Were.

Such nooks and crooks and crannies ! It reminds one of the hillside vineyards on the
Rhine. The wonder is that so much level space has been found or made. It is said that
it cost $100,000 to make the lot on which the costly church of the Compania is built. This
is one of the finest churches in Mexico, containing some beautiful paintings, and on the
facade several superior statues.

The most impressive building in Guanajuato, dominating the city, is the great Alhon-
diga de Granaditas. This was erected by the Intendente Don Juan Antonio Riano in 1785,
and served, as its name implies, as a commercial exchange. Hidalgo captured this building
early in his fight for independence ; later, when he was executed in Chihuahua with Allende,
Aldama and Jimenez, the heads of these patriots were sent to Guanajuato and exposed upon
the walls of this building. The spike upon which Hidalgo's head, was fastened still is
pointed out. The Alhondiga is now used as a prison in which the prisoners are taught
trades. The institution may be visited, and one of the best views of the city is obtained
from its flat roof. In front of the building has been erected a bronze statue of Hidalgo.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

175

The main plaza at Guanajuato is a small but very pretty triangular park raised above
the streets, surrounded by fine stores on two sides and on the third by the parish church.
The chief resort of the people, however, is in the park called La Presa, near the upper
reservoir. Here are beautiful trees and flowers, and here the band plays on Sunday after-
noons and feast-days. It is one of the most beautiful spots in all Mexico.

The "Teatro Juarez," at Guanajuato, if not the largest is certainly the finest theater
in the Republic. It is constructed of green stone, peculiar to Guanajuato, with bronze
statues and ornaments. It is most magnificently furnished, the draperies, carpets, and
scenery all being imported from France.

Inside high walls on a hill north of Guanajuato is the cemetery. Here space for burial is
bought by many people for a period only, say five years. When the time expires, the occu-
pant of that space must make room for another tenant. If friends come to receive the
remains of the late lamented, well and good; but if not, the remains are subject to eviction.

The Mummies in Their White Robes.

Jn an immense subway, reached by winding stairs, the bones of tenants whose leases have
never been renewed are piled. The roorrr is 900 feet long, 20 feet wide and 20 feet high. In
it are piled the bones of 30,000 good Mexicans. At one end of this charnel-house, is a room
devoted to the bodies which have been preserved or mummified by the dry air of the
climate. There are about forty of them. Until a few years ago, they stood there in the
clothes in which they were buried. The State, however, took pity on them, and supplied
them with garments similar to night shirts, in which they now appear.

JALAPA. On the Intercceanic Railway, 258 miles from the City of Mexico, and 82:
miles from Vera Cruz, is the picturesque city of Jalapa, which is a favorite stopping
point for tourists. The railway trip from the City of Mexico is an interesting one. The
Interoceanic follows the east shore of Lake Texcoco, traversing the whole length of the
Valley of Mexico; then across the mountain, at an elevation of 9,000 feet, and on, in a
nearly straight line, to the city of Puebla, of which detailed mention is given in another
paragraph. From Puebla it descends rapidly to the hot country, affording beautiful
glimpses en route, and finally reaching Jalapa. The city of Jalapa is "the capital of the State
of Vera Cruz, and has a population of about 20,000. It was an Indian village at the time

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

17'

of Cortez, and being on the main road between Mexico City and the coast, it was a place
of considerable importance. It is built on a hillside, with steep and irregular streets. A
street car line leads from the railway station to the. Plaza Mayor, and so heavy is the grade
that it requires six mules to draw the car. Just before reaching the Plaza Mayor is a small
plaza, filled with orange trees. From here a splendid view of the town and the surrounding
country can be had. Especially in the early morning, before the clouds and mists arise to
obscure the view, is the scene superb. The mists constantly hang over the palace, and one
is very fortunate if he is in Jalapa when the sun shines. From this little plaza may be
seen the outline of the gulf coast, over eighty miles away. Just back of the city is the
great mountain, with a chalk-like rock, which, from its shape, like a chest, is called the
Cofre, the "Cofre de Perote." The principal buildings to be seen in Jalapa are the Palacio
del Gobierno, located on the Plaza Mayor, the Cathedral, which was founded in the six-

The State House at Jalapa.

teenth century, and the churches of San Francisco, San Juan de Dios, San Hipolito, San
Jose, and Calvario.

An interesting side trip may be made from Jalapa to Teocelo, over the Jalapa & Cor-
dova Railway. This line passes through an extremely tropical country. On every hand
there is a luxuriant growth of tropical verdure; targe beautiful ferns, such as one would
give anything to be able to raise in a hot-house at home, grow wild in abundance, and
orchids, some of them rare specimens, may be seen sprouting in profusion from the tree
branches. Further on the coffee-growing district is reached, and from the car windows
may be seen thousands of acres of coffee, bananas, oranges, pineapples and various other
fruits and flowers.

OAXACA. Of all the side trips in the Republic, that to Oaxaca is the one that could
least be spared. It is reached from Puebla by the Mexican Southern Railway. For the first
few hours after leaving Puebla the line runs through a rich, agricultural country, thoroughly
cultivated, dotted with innumerable towns and churches rich in historical lore, and rimmed
by the marble and onyx mountains that belt one of the richest and most fertile of all the
Mexican valleys; Seventy-nine rh'iles south of Puebla is the important city of Tehuacan.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

179

From there the scenery rapidly changes, first to rough columnular hills, dyed the colors of
the rainbow by the metallic salts oozing from their strata ; on through the canon of the Rio
Salado, and into the grand canon of the Cues. Here the road follows the river through
intricate folds, the walls of the canon rising perpendicularly hundreds and sometimes
thousands of feet above the train, crowned from height to height with organ-pipe cacti,
that look like huge green candles set to light the
wind-swept altars of the gods of this solemn
waste. At Quitopec the line touches its lowest
level, 1,767 feet above the sea, a great drop from
Puebla at 7,091 feet; and throughout the follow-
ing hours by gap and canon, the train toils up
the steep grades to Las Sedas, 6,304 feet, from
which is obtained one of the grandest views of
the world. A short run from the summit brings
into view the domes of Oaxaca, a typical Mexi-
can city, with its plazas set deep in trees and
flowers, its fertile environment, its graceful
churches and picturesque buildings. Oaxaca,
population 30,000, is the capital of the State of
the same name, and birthplace of two of Mexi-
co's greatest citizens : Benito Juarez and Porfirio
Diaz. Before the advent of the Spaniards it was
a growing city already competing with its ancient
neighbor Mitland (Mitla) whose birthplace, as
the Spanish say, "has lost itself in the night of
time.

RUINS OF MITLA. The most interesting
ruins in Mexico are those of Mitla, in the State
of Oaxaca, thirty miles from Oaxaca. The usual
conveyance is a coach drawn by six mules, and a
broad, well-kept road runs the entire distance.
The time occupied in transit is about five hours,
which includes stops at the Big Tree of Tule and
Tlaxolula, Two leagues from Oaxaca is the de-
lightful town of Santa Maria de Tule, celebrated
for its giant cypress. This monarch among trees
shades the parish churchyard, and is carefully
tended and decked with orchids. It is 154 feet
two inches around the trunk six feet from the

ground, and all the parrots and monkeys in the States of Oaxaca and Chiapas might rest in
its branches. Beyond Tule is Tlaxolula, where the road leaves the Tehuantepec highway
and runs straight to Mitla. At every turn the eager gaze seeks the famous ruins, but
nothing can be seen until the white walls of the hospital home of Don Felix Quero glitter
in their encircling green. It is impossible to speak of Mitla without referring to the genial
owner of the hacienda, Don Felix Quero. The guest always retains pleasant memories
of the genuine hospitality of this southern host. Mitla, the Fallen ! It matters not whether
you see it by day or by night, its strange charm is ever the same. The beautiful mosaics
of the walls glow as freshly as when they were first put in. Through the stately hall of
monoliths and from corridor to room you may wander, each having a different design.
In one apartment, used as a stable by the cura, is a dado of painted figures on a dull red
ground; certainly the oldest paintings in America, mural or otherwise. Through the long

A Little Aristocrat.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

181

ages these ruins have defied the long dry summers and infrequent rains, although their

history builders have passed away.

Ober says of these ruins: "They are the crowning achievement of the ancients in the
Palaces of Mitla, the former abode and the places of burial of
the Zapotec kings. No ruins in Mexico, and probably none in
America, are more elaborately ornamented in their peculiar style
than these. The Indians here are Zapotecs, and not only speak
their ancient language, but retain their old customs and man-
ners. There are five groups of ruins, three of which are in
excellent preservation. As they do not lay claim to regard so
much on account of their height as for their extent and elaborate
ornamentation, the wall of the first rises before you while you
are yet unaware of its vicinity. Though it contains some im-
mense blocks of porphyry and traces of hieroglyphic painting, its
ruin is more complete than the second group. The first col-
lection is about one hundred and twenty feet by one hundred,
and the walls, fifteen to eighteen feet high, enclose a large court,
on three sides of which are rooms. The outer walls of all the

From the Country. . 1 r i_i 1 r r

rums are composed of oblong panels of mosaic, forming

greques or arabesques. There seems to be no sculpture on the walls, but only this
peculiar mosaic, formed of pieces of stone accurately cut and fitted into the face of the
wall, forming patterns so complicated in their nature that a description of them is
impossible. This mosaic, all the figures of which are rectangular or diagonal, gives the
distinctive character' to Mitla that distinguishes it from all other ruins. The facades of the
Yucatan ruins are carved, while Palenque is noted for its sculptures and stucco in bas-
relief, and Copan for its idols and altars.

"The third group is the most interesting, since not only are the outside walls cut in
mosaic, but there are several rooms and courts, the sides of which are a labyrinth of
greques. The lintels of this and
the adjacent ruins are immense
blocks of porphyry, one of
which is nineteen feet in length,
a solid block of "stone, raised to
its present position by some lost
process of engineering, certainly
by one that is unknown to the
Indians of to-day. The rooms
are narrow, and at present open
to the sky, but were once un-
doubtedly protected by a roof.
But what distinguishes the
ruins of Mitla from all other re-
mains of Mexican architecture
is, as stated by Humboldt, six
columns of porphyry, fourteen feet in height, which are ranged in line in the center of
a great hall. They are very simple, having neither pedestal, capital, nor architrave, but
stand as almost the only examples of the kind found in American ruins.

"The adjoining ruin is larger than the others, being 284 feet long and 108 feet wide,
with walls five or six feet thick. Two great stone pillars twelve feet high stand in front
of the doorway. The walls have the same ornamentation of diagonal mosaics, and the
portion used as a stable contains the best preserved fragments of paintings in the ruins."

A Grain Cart.

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

183

ORIZABA. Orizaba is on the Mexican Railway, 181 miles from the City of Mexico,
and eighty-two miles from Vera Cruz. Leaving the City of Mexico, the railway line
passes close to the Villa de Guadalupe, the Shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe, passing
around the lakes of Texcoco and San Cristobal, until San Juan Teotihuacan is reached.
Here may be seen the "Pyramids of the Sun and Moon." One is called Tonatinh
Ytzagual, or ''House of the Sun," the base
line of which is 682 feet, and the perpen-
dicular height is 221 feet. A little dis-
tance to the northwestward is the "House
of the Moon," with a height of 144 feet.
It is thought that these two pyramids were
perhaps the Westminster Abbey of the
Toltecs or Aztecs. From these pyramids to
Esperanza, the track lies through immense
pulque plantations from \vhich the national
beverage is daily transported to the City of
Mexico, a special pulque train being run
for that purpose. The view of the lofty
snow-capped mountains obtained from the
line of this road is magnificent. After
leaving Esperanza the descent from the
temperate to the torrid zone is made, drop-
ping down 4,000 feet in less than two The Plaza in Orizaba.
hours. All eyes are open while this

marvelous trip is being made, and as the train speeds around the sides of the mountain
one can look into the fearful abysses below. The train crosses bridges, which span
rushing and foaming torrents of sparkling clear water, along near the edge of rocky
precipices with just enough room for the track, plunges into rock-cut tunnels, while all
around are evidences of a tropical climate. The scenery is regarded as the grandest on
the American continent.

There are many things of interest to be seen in Orizaba. Horse cars run from the
station to the hotels, to the Alameda and to the plazas throughout the city. There are
hills to be climbed for the fine views. The cross on the summit of the Sierra de Borrego,
seen from the cars, marks the spot where some French soldiers were slain, and the narrow
path up the side marks the line of their march. In the pretty little Alameda is i
monument to Ignacio de la Llave, one of the notable men of the town, The market is
specially attractive to tourists on account of the array of tropical fruits and flowers.
The Santa Teresa church at Orizaba, formerly known as El Calvaria, has the oldest
foundation in the place. In early days it was the parish church and the first edifice was
thatched with straw. This primitive church was built in 1564. It adjoins the church
proper but is no longer in use. The present parish church, San Miguel, is a handsome
building of stone, completed in 1720.

PUEBLA. Puebla, Capital of the State of the same name, is one of the oldest, largest
and most important cities of the Republic. It has 100,000 inhabitants, and from a military
point of view is the key to the City of Mexico, and no city except the Capital has changed
hands so frequently with the varying fortunes of war. It is located on the Mexican and
Interoceanic Railways, 116 miles from the City of Mexico. It is popularly known as the
City of the Angels, on account of a legend connected with its foundation. Northeast
from the "city, within the suburbs, is the hill and fort of Guadalupe. It was at this spot
that General Zaragoza, on May 5, 1862, defeated 6,000 French troops, although his own
force was only one-third of that number. The fort was formerly the location of the

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

185

A Mexican Cradle.

church, the ruins of which were used to build the fortification. A visit to Guadalupe is
well worth the fatigue of the walk there, or, if it is desired, the trip can be made by
horse car. The view is one of great beauty. Puebla is a city of tiles, and the domes of
its scores of churches are covered with glazed tiles of many colors which glisten in the
sun. From Guadalupe may be seen the volcanoes of Popocatepetl and Ixtaccihuatl, old
Orizaba and the pyramid of Cholula. One of the largest cathedrals in the world is to
be found in Puebla. It is 323 feet long by 101 feet wide, and has an interior height of
eighty feet, the whole being surmounted by a fine dome. The towers contain eighteen
bells, one of which weighs more than nine tons. The location is on a stone terrace to the
south of the Plaza Mayor. The interior of the building is magnificent. The great choir
in the center of the nave is built of stone ; the carvings of the organs are superb ; the

186

MODERN MEXICO'S STANDARD GUIDE.

pulpit is carved from Puebla onyx; the high altar, which is constructed of every conceivable
marble of Mexico and onyx from Puebla, is the work of Manuel Tolsa. Beneath the altar
is the tomb of the bishops. The church of San Francisco is the next most interesting
edifice in Puebla.

Some eight miles from Puebla is Cholula, where is found the great Cholula pyramid,
now covered with trees, whose base is more than one and one-half times that of the great
Egyptian pyramid, and which is generally supposed to have been built by the Aztecs or
Toltecs ; but Ignatius Donnelly, in his work, "Atlantis," says it is the remains of the
Towers of Babel. This colossal pyramid rising from the vast plains, with the beautiful
church, "Nuestra Senora de los Remedies',' on its summit, is one of the most interesting
relics of the extinct races that dwelt in this land centuries upon centuries ago. The
Pyramid of Cholula is reached by horse cars from Puebla, and the trip is a most interesting
one.

VERA CRUZ. Every tourist that visits Mexico desires to see Vera Cruz, but does not
care to make an extended stay there. It is the terminus of the Interoceanic and Mexican
Railways, and is the chief seaport of Mexico. It was here that Cortez landed on Good
Friday, April 21, 1519. An enormous amount of money has been spent by the Mexican
Government in making Vera Cruz sanitary, and every year yellow fever continues to
become less epidemic. There is not much of interest to the tourist in the city, and a walk
about the streets and plazas, a visit to the parish church on the Plaza Mayor, and to the
Church of San Francisco takes in all that there is to be seen. One thing that attracts the
attention of the tourist in Vera Cruz is the number of buzzards which line the streets and
which do excellent work for the street cleaning department.

Un Centavo,' Senorita?'

Sonora News Company,

Antique Department:

Rare Old Paintings, Inlaid Cabinets and
Chests, Laces, Embroideries, Tapestries*
Maximilian Remnants, Relics of the
Conquest, Etc., Etc.

Calle Estaciones 3,

Opposite Mexican Central Depot.

Curio Department:

Carved Leather Work, Opals, Fans, Sera-
pes, Mexican Drawn Linens. Filigree
Baskets and Feather Work, Views,
Guide Books, Interpreters, Etc., Etc.

Gante No. 4,

Opposite American Club.

IHniteb States anb flfteyican tlrust Co.

Authorized Capital, $2,500,000.

E. E. HOLMES,

A. E. STILWELL, President. 2d Vice-President. W. A. RULE, Treasurer.

D S LANDER. M. V. WATSON, E. S. MOSHER, Secretary.

First Vice-President and 3d Vice-President. S. W. RIDER,

Manager Mexican Office. ALONZO FERNANDEZ, Assistant Secretary.

Trust Officer.
*!

HIS Company transacts a general banking business. It
joffers exceptional facilities for the safe investment of
capital in the Republic of Mexico. It has its own
experts, through whom full and trustworthy infor-
mation is furnished regarding mines, haciendas and
rubber, coffee or tobacco plantations. It undertakes

the care and management of property for non-residents.

Collections promptly made at reasonable rates in all parts

of the Republic.

MAIN OFFICE: IA SAN FRANCISCO No. 4, MEXICO CITY.

KANSAS CITY. Bryant Building, j ... r I CHICAGO, 623 New York Life Bldg.

NEW YORK, 52 Broadway. IES j LONDON, 31 Lombard Street.

Specially Secured and

Guaranteed Investment

in the i.oooacre SUGAR and RUBBER
PLANTATION of the

Aztec Plantation
Company,

Isthmus of Tehuantepec. Mexico.

500 Acres in Sugar. 500 Acres in Rubber.

Sugar is the quickest, largest and most certain money earner in the tropics to-day.

Rubber is the mcst reliable and enduring source of income.

Net earnings of the Company's 2CO-ton sugar house: capacity, 25,000 tons; product of 500 acres,
$362.50 per acre of cane.

Net earnings of rubber: 500 acres, $200 per acre.

The Company is now selling its remaining Plantation Certificates for f 200 each, either for cash at
a discount of 20 per cent., or on the monthly payment plan, both under a dividend guarantee of 7 and 8
per cent, per annum from date of purchase. Earnings in excess of this guarantee are distributed as
extra dividends.

The Company paid its first dividend of 5 per cent, on May 1, 1902.

Address for full paiticulars,

OSCAR MEYE,R, Secretary,

808 Ashland Block, CHICAGO, ILL.

TO THE (

LAND OF MONTEZUMA

A WINTER TRIP

TO A LAND OF

UNIQUE SIGHTS AND

MATCHLESS

CLIMATE

PULLMAN

St. Louis to City of Mexico

WITHOUT CHANGE, EVERY DAY AND SUNDAYS TOO

"To Old Mexico" a booklet de-
scribing the trip will be sent on request.

"The Only Line That Does It"

JAMES BARKER

GENERAL PASSENGER AGENT

520 WAINWRIGHT BUILDING

ST. LOUIS

If You Are Interested in Mexico

YOU SHOULD BE A REGULAR SUBSCRIBER TO

Modern Mexico

IT IS THE ONLY high-grade illustrated
monthly devoted to the progress of the
Republic. Each issue contains from
sixty to one hundred pages, profusely illus-
trated from the latest and best photographs.
Particular attention is paid to railroading,
mining, tropical agriculture, commerce, man-
ufacturing, etc.

MODERN MEXICO is on sale on all trains and
news-stands in Mexico and the United States
for ten cents, gold, per copy. Yearly sub-
scriptions, one dollar, gold, in advance.

MODERN MEXICO

PAUL HUDSON, Editor, WILLIAM C. SMITH, Manager,

2a de la Independencia No. 8, 1 16 Nassau Street,

Mexico City, Mexico. New York City, U. S. A.

A GUIDE,

Should know the best highways and be capable of appreciating the things essential to the '
comfort and pleasure of the party he convoys.

Such an one piloting a pleasure party to or from Mexico will make all the way pleasant by

the selection of the

SANTA FE,

through Colorado, if via the El Paso Gateway, or through Oklahoma, if via the San Antonio-
Laredo gateway.

The Santa Fe possesses the essentials of attractive and varied scenery joined with latest and
best approved equipment and superior

Harvey Dining Car and Dining Room Service.

Through Sleeping Cars run between Kansas City and City of Mexico via El Paso, and through
Sleeping Cars between Kansas City and San Antonio connect with trains to and from important
Mexican Cities carrying sleeping cars south of Laredo. Travelers between the United States
and Monterey, San Luis Potosi, Chihuahua, Torreon, Aguascalientes, City of Mexico and
all principal points in the Republic of Mexico will find the Santa Fe the most important and
efficient railway of Southwestern America.

Ask agents in principal cities of the United States, or W. S. FARNSWORTH,
General Agent, CITY OP MEXICO, or write to

GENERAL PASSENGER OFFICE

THE ATCHISON, TOPEKA & SANTA FE RAILWAY SYSTEM

TOPEKA, KANSAS, or CHICAGO, U. S. A.

BOOKS ON MEXICO

YOVR. LIBRARY IS INCOMPLETE UNLESS
IT CONTAINS THE FOLLOWING WORKS:

Price,
U. S. Currency.

A White Umbrella in Mexico, = = = -$1.50

By F. HOPKINSON SMITH.

Aztec Land, 1.50

By A. M. BALLOU.

On Horseback, = = 1.25

By CHARLES DUDLEY WARNER.

Geographical and Statistical Notes on Mexico, 2.00

By M. ROMERO.

Coffee and India Rubber Culture it\ Mexico

(Preceded by Geographical and Statistical Notes on Mexico), 3.00

By M. ROMERO.

The Awakening of a Nation, - 2.50

By CHARLE.S F. LUMMIS.

Janvier's Mexican Guide, with Maps, = 2.50

Keau Campbell's Guide to Mexico, = 1.50

Prescott's Conquest of Mexico (three volumes), = 3.00

From the Pacific to Mexico, - 1.00

By A. K. McCLURE.

The Story of Mexico, r l,50

By SUSAN HALE.

Mexico as I Saw It, = = = = ..- 5.00

By MRS. E. ALEC. TWEEDIE.

Mexico City : An Idler's Note Book, = = 1.25

By OLIVE, PERCIVAL.

A Glimpse of Old Mexico, 1.00

By JAMES H. WILKINS.

Sketches of Mexico, = = - = - = = 1,00

By JOHN W. BUTLER.

India Rubber, Gutta Percha and Balata, -"221- 3.00

By WILLIAM T. BRANNT.

Unknown Mexico (two volumes, profusely illustrated), 12.00

By CARL LUMHOLTZ, M.A.

A Tour in Mexico, *-...- -]H- = 2.00

By MRS. JAMES EDWIN MORRIS.} \ Era;a

Any of the above books will be sent postpaid to any part of the United States
or Mexico, on receipt of the price.

MODERN MEXICO, '

16 NASSAU ST.,
NEW YORK.

v4**************^

What They Say of Modern Mexico's
Standard Guide.

It is indispensable to the tourist; interesting
to residents; an appropriate gift for friends
abroad. The Mexican Herald.

American visitors to Mexico will find in
the Standard Guide much helpful informa-
tion. St. Louis Globe-Democrat.

More than one hundred and fifty fine illus-
trations, with as many pages of information
of real value conveniently arranged, make up
the Standard Guide. It will serve tourists
well and interest all readers. The Argonaut,
San Francisco.

It is a handsomely got-up book, with
illustrations of a high order. The Chihuahua
(Mexico) Enterprise.

It contains a great deal of interesting in-
formation and is profusely illustrated. The
Picayune, New Orleans.

The book is most attractively arranged and
is far superior to the average guide book of
Mexico. The illustrations are numerous and
excellent, and the information contained in
the book will be appreciated by tourists and
residents as well. The Anglo-American,
Mexico City.

It is so beautifully illustrated that it really
affords, in addition to its valuable guide fea-
tures, the handsomest collection of printed
views of the Mexican capital to be found any-
where. Dixie, Atlanta, Ga.

This guide will be found invaluable to
Americans about to visit Mexico. It fur-
nishes a complete description of the city and
its environs, and is copiously illustrated with
fine half-tone engravings. It is prefaced by
an interesting historical note, and all the
buildings are described, with full notice of
their historical interest. Scientific American,
New York.

The information furnished is valuable for
all who wish to become informed in regard to
that neighboring republic, and especially for
tourists. The Fourth Estate, New York.

The visitor to Mexico will find the Standard
Guide both useful and interesting. It is ex-
tensively illustrated, while a supplemental
chapter on "Side Trips from Mexico City"
considerably extends the scope of the work
by giving details regarding excursions to
Guadalajara, Puebla, the ruins of Mitla and
other neighboring attractions. Commercial
Advertiser^ New York.

I congratulate you on having turned out
such a creditable guide. Mr. W. H. Simpson,
Advertising Manager Atchison, Topeka & Santa
Fe Railway, Chicago.

Mr. Barrett, the compiler of this valuable
gviide, has gathered his material from the
best available sources. In addition to much
interesting historical matter, he supplies the
tourist with practical information in regard
to how to reach Mexico, hotels and their
prices, changing money, the sights of the old
Aztec capital, etc. There is also a chapter
on side trips from Mexico City, with mention
of places of interest. The Post, Washington.

It is invaluable to tourists. The News,
Mihi'aukee.

This illustrated guide, revised each year, is
one of the most admirable of its kind, and
contains much valuable and historical informa-
tion concerning our neighboring republic.

The Manufacturer, Philadelphia.

An excellent, practical handbook, besides
being made attractive by a profusion of illus-
trations. The Dial, Chicago.

A fourth edition of this book will be printed January i, 1904.
Application for advertising space in it should be made early to the
publishers, 116 Nassau Street, New York, or za de la Independencia,
Mexico City.

A LONG JOURNEY

ROM most of the large centers of population in
the United States it is a long journey to Mexico
-a long, but not necessarily a tiresome one if
proper discretion be used in the selection of a
route. Well informed travelers to "the far Southwest"
almost invariably speak with enthusiasm of the

FRISCO

SYSTEM

This popular route takes you through the Ozarks
and their tributary ranges for a distance of some five
hundred miles. It operates electric-lighted trains, library-
observation sleepers, and is in every respect up to the
standard of a first-class Twentieth Century Railroad. It is

The Route of the Wise Traveler

For Rates and descriptive matter, address

A. HILTON, General Passenger Agent, ST. LOUIS, Mo., U. 5. A.
ALEXANDER MORE, No. 6 Calle de Gante, MEXICO CITY.

" -" -

Why

not

Mexico?

You have been to Europe. You have
seen California and Colorado. Why not
try Mexico ? It is worth while.

The curious architecture; the vast
plazas, where the entire population of
the city gathers nightly to listen to the
stirring strains of a military band ; the
rare beauty of the women; the picturesque
attire of the men; the primitive methods
of agriculture these are only a few of the
scores of things that can be seen and
enjoyed in Mexico in MIDWINTER.

The right road to Mexico is the Rock Island
shortest of all lines to El Paso and direct connec-
tions there with thro* trains for all points in the
Republic.

Write for " Mexico in Glimpses" beautifully
illustrated ; interesting ; free.

Rock Island
System

J. SEBASTIAN,

Passenger Traffic Manager,

Chicago, 111.

LA IMPERIAL

The Only American

Light Lunches, Ice Cream p ar i or and Cafe

^ dies ' In Mexico City.

Cakes,

- ~ AMERICAN ATTENDANTS.

Ice Cream

and Soda. 1st San Francisco, No. 13, Opposite Jockey Club.

y
If

Quaint Historic New Orleans.

The Most Attractive Winter Resort in America,
Continuous Horse Ricing. French Opera. Theatres, Yachting. Fishing. Hunting.

THE NE.W ST. CHARLES HOTEL.

Centrally Located, and the Only Fire-Proof Hotel in the City. Accommodations for 700 Guests.
Turkish, Russian, Roman and Plain Baths. 200 Private Bath Rooms. Distilled Drinking Water.
Distilled Water Ice. A Modern Up-to-Date Hotel. KEPT ON BOTH AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN
PLANS. European Plan, $1.50 Up. American Plan, $3.50 Up. Dining Room and Restaurant Ser-
vice and Cuisine First-Class. Weddings, Receptions, Banquets, Theatrical Supper Parties
Arranged for on Application at Moderate Prices.

A. R. BLAKELY & CO.. Limited, Proprietors.

FRANCES MCMILLAN, M. D.

HOMEOPATHIC PHYSICIAN

San Juan de Letran, No. (2

10 to 12 A. M. Next door to Bratch Post Office

Office Hours j 1 ^ g R ^ MEXICO CITY

Antiquities and Old 'Books

Rare Mexican Books a Specialty* Manuscripts and Autographs*
Guide Books* Souvenir Postal Cards and Stationery* All the
late Copyrighted Books and Fiction*

Blake's (The White Front) Book Store
Gante No. 8 * * * Mexico City

When in Mexico Read the

MEXICAN HERALD,

THE ONLY ENGLISH DAILY WITH ASSOCIATED PRESS DISPATCHES.

THE HOTEL REFORMA

POPULAR RATES ON BOTH AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN PLANS.

Offers to the travelling
public the best accom-
modations to be found
in Mexico City.

Situated on the famous
and fashionable drive-
way, with all of its rooms
opening to the sun, it i$
unequalled for convert
ience and healthfulness
of location, while its
cuisine is unexcelled.

O. G. NIBBI, Prop'r,
Paseo de la Reforma,
Mexico City.

The New York anci Cuba
Mail Steamship Co.

=" WARD HNE"=

Most popular route between Mexico, Cuba and United
States. Magnificent new steamers, offering every
luxury and facility for pleasurable sea travel. Through
tickets to and from any point in Mexico. Send for
information covering our rates and tours. We can
interest you.

J. E. CATES, Mexican Traffic Agent

Calle Gante No. 12, Mexico City
O'KELLY & CO., Vera Cruz ZALDO ft CO.. Havana

JAMES E. WARD 6 CO., Inc., Gen'i Agts., N. Y. City