MODERN
PRACTICA;
BAKING
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
:opyright, 1921, by William H. Brooks.
MODERN
PRACTICAL BAKING
BY
WILLIAM H. BROOKS
PRICE $5.00
PALO ALTO
WILLIS L. HALL, PUBLISHER
1921
WILLIAM H. BROOKS
International Cake Expert, Author of the Pastry Chef and Contributor to the
Leading Trade Journals.
CONTENTS
Page
Chapter 1 Bread and Rolls 15
White Bread No. 1 White Bread No. 2 White Bread
No. 3 white Bread No. 4 White Bread No. 5 White
Bread No. 6 Pan Rolls Genuine Whole Wheat or Gra-
ham Bread Raisin Bread Fruit Nut Bread.
Chapter 2 Danish Pastry or Coffee Cake 21
Danish Pastry or Coffee Cake No. 1 Danish Pastry
or Coffee Cake No. 2 Rolled in Coffee Cake or Dan-
ish Pastry Sweet Dough or Coffee Cake Coffee
Goods and Sweet Dough Apple, Peach, Plum Cake,
Etc. Apricot Cake Walnut Rolls Butter Scotch
Buns Apricot Jelly Cheese Cake Streuhsel Buns
Nut Rolls Poppy Seed Strudel Almond Flaked Tea
Rings Filling for Almond Flaked Tea Rings Zwie-
back Fancy Zwieback Almond Zwieback.
Chapter 3 Doughnuts, Fried Cakes and Crullers 27
Special Doughnuts Doughnuts, Fried Cakes or Crul-
lers No. 1 Bag Doughnuts Fried Cakes or Crullers
No. 3 New York Formula for Machine Doughnuts No.
4 Doughnuts, Fried Cakes or Crullers No. 5 Dough-
nuts, Fried Cakes or Crullers No. 6.
Chapter 4 Brioche 29
Unfermented Brioche.
Chapter 5 Cakes for Everyday Sale 31
Tea Biscuits Jelly Roll No. 1 Jelly Roll No. 2
Lady Fingers No. 1 Lady Fingers No. 2 Angel Food
Crullers.
Chapter 6 Pies - 33
Pie Fillings Custard Filling for Custard Pies Lemon
Pie Filling Pumpkin Pie Filling Chocolate Cream
Pies Covering for Meringue for Lemon and Chocolate
Cream Pies Pumpkin Pie No. 2 Open Fruit Tarts.
Chapter 7 Cookies 35
Premier Cookies Queen Cookies Honey Cookies
Raisin Cookies Ginger Cookies White Sugar Cookies
Oatmeal Cookies Fancy Butter Cookies Scotch
Perkins Ginger Nuts Crisp Fancies Spice Drops
Lemon Cookies Cocoanut Cookies Angel Cookies
Jelly Rings Italian Biscuits Rice Wafers Fruit
Wafers.
Chapter 8 Puff Pastry - 41
Three-quarter Paste Rolled in Paste for Pies Savory
Pastries Vol-au-Vent Cheese Straws Meat Patties,
Etc. Sweet Pastries and Almond Tarts French
Straws Cherry and Jelly Tartlets Apple Puffs
Fruit Pastry Almond Pastries Diamond Chips
Spanish Puffs.
CONTEXTS
Page
Chapter 9 Chou Pastry 47
Chou Pastry No. 1 Chou Pastry No. 2 Chou Pastry
No. 3 Rich Cream Filling for Eclairs, Etc. Chou a la
Creme Pralinee Cream Buns French Crullers Fe-
dora Pastries Bordeaux Pastries Crescents Lemon
Cream Buns Gateau St. Honore Bouchees, Etc.
Chapter 10 Meringue Goods 53
Meringue Shells Meringue Mushrooms Maraschino
Meringues Maraschino Birds Coffee Meringue Co-
coanut Meringue Meringue Kisses Meringue Pas-
tries Cherry Meringue.
Chapter 11 High Grade Layer Cakes 57
Almond Layers Chocolate Layers Ginger Layers
Yellow Layers Devil's Food White Layers Fruit
Layers Butter Sponge Layers Chocolate Walnut
Layers Lemon Layers Chocolate Ginger Layers
Pecan Layers Cherry Layers Punch Layers
Lady Baltimore Layers Premier Layers Orange Co-
coanut Cakes Banana Tarts Pineapple Snow Cake.
Chapter 12 Cream Goods 63
Sponge Casing for Charlotte Russe Plain Whipped
Cream Charlotte Russe Double Charlottes Char-
lottes a la Cardinal Large Charlottes Punch Cream
Buns Savarins Savarin Mixture Banana Tarts
Cream Baskets Pineapple Tarts Matinee Creams
Opera Pastries Boston Cream Pies Snowballs
Orange Creams Whipped Cream Torte Hazelnut
Cream Torte Pastry Charlottes.
Chapter 13 Loaf Cakes - 69
Van Dusen Cakes White Van Dusen Dorothy Cakes
Yellow Florence Cakes Dundee Cakes English Ma-
deira Cakes Ideal Ginger Cakes Small Pound Cakes
Vanilla Fig Cake Orient Cake Lemon Sandwich
Loaf Sponge.
Chapter 14 Pound Cake - T.\
Plain Pound Cake Genoa Cake Cherry Genoa Cake
Ginger Pound Cake Caraway Seed Pound Cake
Rich Fruit Pound Cake Rice Pound Cake (Medium
Priced) Light Pound Cake White Pound Cake Mar-
ble Pound Cake Fleur de Lys Cake Small Pound
Cakes.
Chapter 15 French Pastries 79
Petits Choux Light Cake Base Custard Cream Ap-
ple Cream Butter Cream.
Chapter 16 Individual Fancy Cakes 83
Desmondonas Orange Crescents Cream Pyramids
Apricotines Vanilla Pastries Timbre Cakes Fruit
Pyramids Chocolate Bars Checkers Fedora Cakes
Strawberry Petits Fours Strawberry Mascots Mocha
Slices Chocolate Slices Cocoanut Pyramids Apples
and Pears Petits Beurres Chocolate Almond Creams
Orange Filling Maraschino Fingers Rose Tartlets
Viennese Pastries Kopje Tartlets Strawberry But-
ter Cakes Neapolitan Creams Pineapple Creams
Crumb Tartlets.
CONTEXTS
Page
Chapter 17 Almond Goods 97
Petits Fours Walnut Pyramids Chocolate Maca-
roons Hazelnut Macaroons Congress Macaroons
Dutch Macaroons Plain Macaroons Royal Almond
Macaroons Chocolate Almond Bars Cinnamon
Almond Sticks Almond Batons Almond Boats Mac-
aroon Shortbread Almond Tarts Almond Mascots
Lorange Pistachio Maraschino Bateaux Maraschino
Petits Fours Walnut Biscuits Pistachio Biscuits
Chemin de Fer Bars Raspberry Almond Cuts Gau-
fres Biscuits Picnola Macaroons.
Chapter 18 Langues des Chats 109
Langues des Chats (Cats' Tongues) Gateau a la Su
preme.
Chapter 19 Bonnes Bouchees 111
Hazelnut Bouchees Almond Bouchees Bouchees
with Whipped Cream Filling Vanilla Cream Bouchees
Chapter 20 Dubosh Torte - - - - - 113
Dubosh Torte No. 1 Dubosh Torte No. 2 Hazelnut
Slices.
Chapter 21 Small Cakes to Retail at 40c to $2 a Pound 115
Lemon Ice Biscuits Orange Ice Biscuits Fleur de
Orange Biscuits Pommes de Terre Inverness But-
tons Lemon Wafers Walnut Molasses Wafers Pa-
risian Puffs Hermits Cocoanut and Almond Drops
Vanilla Wafers.
Chapter 22 Wedding Cakes - 119
White Cake No. 1 White Cake No. 2 English Wed-
ding Cake Individual Wedding Cakes.
Chapter 23 English Plum Pudding - 127
Plum Pudding No. 1 Plum Pudding No. 2 Mince-
meat.
Chapter 24 Layer Cake Fillings - 129
Punch Filling Apricot, Raspberry and Orange Filling
Marshmallow Filling Cherry Filling Special Lem-
on Fillings for Lemon Layers Chocolate Walnut Fill-
ing Apple Filling Walnut Filling.
Chapter 25 Icings 131
Fondant and Its Uses Hot Water Icing Royal Icing.
Chapter 26 Butter Creams - 133
Butter Cream No. 1 Butter Cream No. 2 Butter
Cream No. 3.
Chapter 27 Fig Products - 135
Fig Bread Whole Wheat Fig Bread Fig Bars Oat-
meal Fig Cookies Chocolate Fig Layer Cake Fig
Bran Cookies Molasses Fig Drops Fig Boston
Brown Bread.
PREFACE
It is with considerable pleasure that I present this revised peace-
lime edition of Modern Practical Baking and sincerely hope that it will
be as well received as were the preceding editions of this work. Since
the last edition was published a vast change has taken place in the
retail bakery. Modern manufacturing and merchandising methods
have been applied in the form of traveling reel ovens and spotless
stores and this old and honorable trade has been raised to a position of
importance undreamed of a few years ago. In developing it has at-
tracted the best type of merchant, who in turn has applied more sys-
tematic methods than those that have prevailed hitherto. In line with
this development the so-called quality standards have been raised and
new ideas and formulas are now in use.
In this book particular attention has been paid to formulas appli-
cable to this new development in our industry and this revised edition
contains formulas that have made many of these stores justly famous.
French pastry stores have gained in popularity in recent years and
Danish pastry is almost as equally well known. Both branches have
been fully covered in this book.
Another new departure is the inclusion of several chapters on
bread and doughnuts. The bread formulas are on a par with the other
formulas contained in this book as to quality. The doughnut formulas
are also the best of their kind. As in previous editions, a free service
is offered any purchaser of this book in so far as the adjustment of any
formula is required to conform to local climatic conditions, or raw
materials.
WILLIAM H. BROOKS.
CHAPTER 1
BREAD AND ROLLS
It is not my intention to deal with the technical phases of the fol-
lowing formulas, but to offer to the trade a number of successful,
thoroughly tested and well balanced formulas which have won and
held trade in hundreds of successful retail stores throughout the coun-
try. It has always been my contention that the proper place for testing-
flour and other raw materials is in a properly equipped laboratory
where every facility is available for securing accurate results. It
entails too much labor on the part of the retail baker to attempt this
work in addition to operating his business. Laboratory facilities for
the testing of flour are available in any city of importance, where tests
are made at a very moderate charge. Various yeast concerns, trade
journals, etc., also offer service in this respect, so why not concentrate
on the manufacturing and merchandising of the baked goods rather
than upon the technical phase of the business? However, usually the
practical baker is able to determine to his own satisfaction by "feel-
ing" the flour its tendency to hardness or softness as the case may be,
sufficiently well in any case to govern his decision as to its suitability
for the various types of goods. This, in addition to a practical baking
test, which after all is the test most worth while, should be sufficient
evidence to determine its value in his shop. The proper thing for any
retail baker to do is to purchase a small quantity of flour of any brand
that is new to his shop and subject it to a careful baking test before
purchasing in quantities. Any mill with confidence in its product will
usually agree to shipments of one or two barrels, for the purpose of
determining its value. If satisfied stick to this brand, provided the
quality is maintained. It is well to remember that the baker ' is > of ten
tempted to change his flour and that first order prices and prices foE
subsequent orders are not always consistent, discounting the fact that
meanwhile prices may have been raised or lowered, as the ease may be-
Quality and service generally go together and are not usually secured
at the lowest price.
Results I favor have always been obtained through the use of
hard spring wheat flour in the proportion of 60 per cent to 40 per cent
of rich soft winter wheat. In simple terms, the hard wheat for volume
and the soft winter for color and flavor and to "break" the toughness
of crumb which results from the use of hard wheat flour.
Technically, or from the bakery chemist's findings with whose
viewpoint I am very familiar, some of my formulas may be scientifi-
cally wrong in some small particular, but I have always sought results
and in seeking have not traveled the well beaten path familiar to so
many, and I am sure that one or more of the many formulas submitted
16 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
will fit your shop and guarantee the results which good merchandise
most surely brings.
The following formula is given first place, as the use of this form-
ula in one of a number of retail stores I operated some years ago re-
sulted in the most phenomenal sales of bread I have ever seen during
my experience in the trade.
WHITE BREAD No. 1
Straight Dough 140 pounds hard wheat flour, 56 pounds soft
wheat flour, 10 pounds mashed potatoes, 2y 2 pounds malt extract, 4
pounds salt, 3*4 pounds yeast, 4 pounds sugar, 7 pounds pure lard. 6
gallons fresh whole milk, 62 pounds water (7% gallons). Temperature
of water 78 degrees ; shop temperature 80 degrees.
Method Place milk, water and mashed potatoes in machine, re-
serving about 10 pounds of water to be divided between two pails for
dissolving salt and yeast. Add salt solution and sugar, mix thoroughly
with flour. Run machine for two minutes. Add malt and yeast. Run
for five minutes more, then add shortening. Complete mixing.
Total time of the mixing approximating eighteen minutes. Time first
punch, 214 hours; time second punch, 30 minutes; 5 minutes and take
to the bench. Bake in even temperature 425 to 450 degrees. On no
account bake in too hot an oven.
WHITE BREAD No. 2
140 pounds hard wheat flour, 56 pounds soft wheat flour, 10
pounds condensed milk (sweetened), 4 pounds salt, 3*4 pounds yeast.
2*4 pounds malt extract, 2 pounds sugar, 7 pounds pure lard, 108
pounds water.
Method As for white bread No. 1.
WHITE BREAD No. 3
140 pounds hard wheat flour, 56 pounds soft wheat flour, 2y 4
pounds buttermilk powder, 3% pounds salt, 1 pound malt extract, 5
pounds sugar, 6 pounds lard, 2y 2 pounds yeast, 116 pounds water.
Method Place salt, water, sugar and buttermilk in mixer. Place
yeast in pail with 10 pounds of water reserved for same and mix
thoroughly. Start mixer and add flour. When operating 2 minutes
add malt and yeast. Run 5 minutes, then add shortening. Mixing time
approximately 18 minutes. Time first punch 2y 2 hours (approxi-
mately) ; time second punch 1 hour; 5 minutes then take to bench.
WHITE BRE.VD No. 4
Special Home-made Loaf 140 pounds hard wheat flour, 56 pounds
soft wheat flour, 8 pounds sugar, 8 pounds pure lard, 3 l / 2 pounds yeast,
y 2 pounds salt, 116 pounds water. Temperature of shop 80 degrees.
Temperature of water 78 degrees.
Method Place water in machine, add sugar and salt, then flour.
Run mixing for 2 minutes, add yeast thoroughly dissolved in small
amount of water. Lastly add shortening 3 minutes before completion
of mixing. Run mixer 18 minutes from start to finish. Time first
punch, 2 hours ; time second punch, 35 minutes ; 15 minutes then take
to bench.
BREAD AND ROLLS 17
WHITE BREAD No. 5
Fast Dough Flour, one-half hard winter wheat and one-half hard
spring wheat, 100 pounds; water, 54 pounds (approximately) ; salt, 1%
pounds ; yeast, 3 pounds ; sugar, 2 pounds ; malt extract, 1 pound ; milk
(condensed) 4 pounds; shortening, 3 pounds. Temperature when leav-
ing mixer, 78 degrees F.
Fermentation First rising, 40 minutes ; second rising, 20 minutes ;
to the bench in 10 minutes. The temperature of the proof box 85 de-
grees F. The temperature of the oven should be approximately 500
degrees F. You will get better results by baking this bread in a
hot oven. Give the loaves a short proof in the pans. You will be able
to get just as much volume if you depend upon the spring in the oven.
By getting your volume in the oven you will get a loaf of bread having
a good colored crust, velvet texture and a good colored crumb.
WHITE BREAD No. 6
Special Dough for Snowflake Biscuits and any form of Pan Rolls
100 pounds spring wheat high patent flour, 1 pound malt extract, 2*4
pounds salt, 4 pounds yeast, 3 pounds condensed milk, 10 pounds pure
lard, 2!/2 pounds potato flour or mashed potatoes, 63 pounds water.
Temperature of room, 80 degrees. Temperature of water, 80 degrees.
Allow to come up full first time. Well up second time. Ten minutes
and take to bench. Work off fast on the bench.
This will give a full-flavored, very light roll, and will stand a
thorough baking in the oven. It is particularly suitable for use with
small fluted open pans for baking in revolving oven, as it replaces to
a great extent the hard German or French roll of the hearth type oven.
PAN ROLLS
Pan rolls or so-called yeast raised biscuits or biscuit bread, cres-
cents, etc., in fact, any form of roll with a moderately hard crust can
be made from the foregoing formulas. In the case of crescents or twists
it is necessary to wash them before baking with a "glaze" made of eggs
and milk. A corn starch glaze is also very effective, and is made as
follows: 2 ounces corn starch, 1 quart water, 14 ounce salt. Bring to
a boil. Wash over rolls one minute before taking from oven.
A sponge dough is more suitable for Parker House rolls, although
a very delicious roll can be produced by adding 1 egg and 2 ounces of
additional shortening to each 10 pounds of dough of any of the fore-
going bread formulas.
GENUINE WHOLE WHEAT OR GRAHAM BREAD
The manufacture and sale of genuine whole wheat bread presents
wonderful possibilities to the man capable of realizing the value of
propaganda that has been distributed through such well-known advo-
cates of its use as Dr. Wiley and others. Millers look upon it with
disfavor as its increased use would eliminate the sale of by-products,
such as bran and middlings, for which they usually find a ready and
profitable market. Possibly there is not a single mill that has suffi-
cient demand or has attempted to create big enough demand to justify
it in arranging its machines for manufacture on a large scale. Never-
18 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
theless, the demand is always present, as was amply demonstrated by
me some years ago when I ran a mill exclusively on a flour of this type
and disposed of it through the medium of stores I was operating at that
time.
Take all Dakota, Kansas, or any hard wheat flour. The whole of
the wheat berry is milled as for ordinary flour. After the bran separa-
tion has been made this is run through the rollers several times so that
it is considerably finer than usual. The glutenous qualities of the hard
wheat flour have sufficient "carrying" power to offset the non-gluten-
ous qualities of the bran and "middlings," the resultant loaf having
a fair volume and texture. The re-milling of the bran flakes also re-
lieves the extremely porous nature which is so prevalent in the aver-
age Graham loaf or whole wheat loaf of bread.
The trouble in the past has been as above stated that the millers
have made no attempt to cater to this business. The average Graham
flour is the "offal bin" of the mill and contains too much low grade
flour in the milling of the high patents to ever permit its use as a
straight flour. Therefore the baker has been compelled to blend it
with hard wheat flours, "dope" it with molasses and other agents until
it resembles anything but a whole wheat flour and cannot be conscien-
tiously sold as such. Instead of "doping" it with molasses an ideal
flour should contain the elements in a pure form to obtain the golden
brown crumb so much desired. For instance, 75 per cent Dakota
wheat, 25 per cent Northern Turkey red wheat.
If the baker cannot induce his miller to furnish a flour of this
type, wheats of this kind are available and with the aid of an inex-
pensive mill (I think this costs about $150 to $200 at the present time)
he can mill his own flour very inexpensively and have all the advan-
tages of exclusiveness of product.
An ideal whole wheat bread is made as follows : 100 pounds whole
wheat flour, 2 pounds salt, 11/2 pounds malt extract, 3 pounds brown
sugar, l 1 /^ pounds yeast, 56 pounds water. Temperature of room, 80
degrees ; temperature of water, 78 degrees.
Time for mixins 1 of dough to first punch, approximately 2 hours.
Allow to stand 30 minutes and take to bench.
MaVe up Bake in covered sandwich pans, or special fluted pans
to give it close grain. Give medium short proof before baking.
Fig, whole wheat, bran and raisin whole wheat bread can be made
by adding 30 to 40 pounds of figs and raisins to the above. Blended
figs and raisins are a nice combination.
RAISIN BREAD
A special raisin bread (exceptionally fine), n made as follows:
100 pounds hard wheat flour, 10 pounds condensed milk, 7 pounds pure
lard, 5 pounds sugar, 50 pounds Sun-Made seeded raisins (medium
?i7e), 1/3 ounce almond flavoring extract, I 1 /? pounds salt, 55 pounds
water, 3 pounds yeast. Temperature of room, 80 degrees ; temperature
of water, 90 degrees.
Method Separate the raisins by sprinkling with about 1 quart of
warm water and allowing to stand over night, or do this a few hours
previous to mixing the dough. This is best accomplished by placing
the raisins in a wooden tub, sprinkling with water, then turning over
BREAD AND ROLLS 1
occasionally with a large wooden spatula. A small proportion of small,
seedless raisins in place of the seeded raisins is sometimes desirable,
but do not overlook the fact that the large raisins possess the flavor
desired and are usually much cheaper. Place water, condensed milk,
flavoring extract, salt and sugar in the machine. Add flour and start
to mix. After two minutes add yeast dissolved in water. About two or
three minutes b< fore completion of mixing add melted lard and raisins.
Thoroughly incorporate the raisins without over-mixing, and thereby
breaking up the raisins unnecessarily. The dough should be on the
soft side so that the raisins are not broken. It should also be kept
warm, as the dough will otherwise stiffen up considerably, and if cool,
it will retard fermentation to a great extent on account of the quantity
of raisins in the mix. Keep the dough on the young side.
Once up ' ' full ' ' is sufficient, then 25 to 30 minutes and then to the
bench. Scale into pieces 14 to 20 ounces (no larger) and use long,
narrow pans. Give medium proof and bake in oven 400 to 425 degrees.
FRUIT NUT BREAD
Take one-half of the preceding raisin bread formula. At the first
knockdown incorporate 10 pounds whole almonds, 3 pounds walnuts,
2 pounds orange peel, 1 ounce nutme 01 .
Allow to prove in the trough 35 to 40 minutes, then scale into
pieces 2~y 2 pounds in weight when put on the bench allow to prove, then
place in l l / 2 pound sandwich bread pans. Give good proof and bake in
oven about 375 degrees. If baked in revolving oven, see that pans are
protected on bottom, and if on shelf oven double pan. This makes a
very delicious nut loaf.
Coffee Wreath Poppy Seed Strudel
Apple Slices
CHAPTER 2.
DANISH PASTRY AND COFFEE CAKE
A large variety of coffee cakes are prepared from this dough.
Pretzels, butter horns, snails, wreath cakes, and all the various shapes
usually made from French pastry dough can be applied to coffee cake
of this class. Quite a good deal of the sale success depends upon the
various fillings used. These should be tasty and used in sufficient
quantity so that the flavor permeates all of the dough.
It is very essential that the dough should be kept as cool as pos-
sible after the shortening has been rolled in, so that the layers of
dough are separated by very thin layers of shortening. If the dough
is at all warm, it has a tendency to oil the dough and the efficiency of
the shortening as a dividing and raising medium is partially destroyed.
Nuts of various kinds used in fairly liberal proportions add to the
attractiveness of this style of coffee cake. Cream fillings can also be
used to advantage both as a filler and for decorative purposes.
This dough is improved by using additional shortening, but should
not exceed 2^ pounds to the one quart of liquid.
Almond paste used in the proportion of one-half pound to the
quart of liquid improves the flavoring and eating qualities of this cof-
fee cake. Almond paste fillings are also very popular, and can be
made of any richness desired, by using almond paste and sugar as a
base and w r orking in cake or cookie crumbs, which will bring it down
to any degree of quality.
A moderately rich filling would be composed of the following: 6
pounds cake crumbs, 1 pound almond paste, sugar to taste, 1 pound
orange and lemon peel chopped very fine, 1 pound chopped peanuts,
the grating of six lemons, 1 ounce cinnamon, ^ ounce allspice, 1 ounce
salt.
This formula can be used as the base for a number of fillings.
DANISH PASTRY OR COFFEE CAKE No. 1
One quart milk (ice cold), 8 ounces yeast, 8 ounces sugar, 4 eggs.
Sufficient strong flour to make a fairly free dough.
Method Roll this out as for French pastry, spread over two-
thirds surface 1 pound of firm shortening and 1 pound butter, roll out
twice, allow to rest for about 15 minutes then roll out twice more, cut-
ting into various coffee cake forms and using the following fillings :
Vanilla Cream 1 quart milk, 5 eggs, 8 ounces sugar, 4 ounces
flour, vanilla flavoring. This is a cooked cream. The milk is first
placed on the stove and brought to a boil then balance of ingredients
mixed together and stirred in the milk. Stir over the stove until it
thickens.
Almond Masse 1 pound almond paste, l 1 /^ pounds sugar. Suffi-
cient eggs to make it of a consistency so it will spread very easily.
22 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
Butter Masse 1 pound butter, 1 pound sugar rubbed to a light
cream.
Apricot Jelly 1 can apricots (approximately 6 pounds), rub
through a fine sieve. Cook with 6 pounds sugar allowing five min-
utes from time it starts to boil.
These fillings can be reduced in quality by adding sugar syrup and
cake crumbs. Various other flavors can be worked out by blending
the various fillings. This is a matter for the bakery operator to
determine.
DANISH PASTRY OR COFFEE CAKE No. 2
Special Rolled In Coffee Cake 1 quart eggs, 2 pounds sugar, 2
pounds shortening, 3 ounces salt, 5 ounces yeast, 2 quarts milk, 2 quarts
water, Vi ounce mace, strong flour, lemon and orange flavoring.
This is a straight dough. The approximate time up to first punch
will be 2y 2 to 3 hours. Knock down, roll out on bench and roll in 4
ounces of butter to the pound of dough. I would advise the use of half
oleomargarine and half butter. These should be mixed together thor-
oughly before this is rolled into the dough.
This can be used as a base for filled coffee cake of all kinds. Also
can be used for tea rings and other coffee cake of this type. Based on
present prices this should retail at not less than 50 cents per pound.
One quart milk and water, 2 eggs. 8 ounces sugar, 14 ounce salt, 4
ounces yeast, 2 ounces shortening, little mace and lemon oil, 75 per cent
hard wheat flour, 25 per cent soft wheat flour.
This dough is mixed similarly to first coffee cake dough. Allow
this dough to rise until very full, then knock down, allow to come up
half way the second time. Now roll the mass of dough to one-half inch
in thickness on the bench. Spread over two-thirds of the surface l 1 /^
pounds of very firm shortening, double and roll as is usually done with
French pastry. Keep in cool place for 15 minutes, then give two or
three additional rollings.
SWEET DOUGH OR COFFEE CAKE
Five quarts milk, 5 quarts water, 5% pounds sugar, 7 pounds short-
ening (2 pounds butter, 5 pounds Selex shortening), 1 pound yeast.
5 ounces salt, egg coloring, flavoring, mace and lemon, 10 eggs.
Sponge Dough System Method Heat 8 quarts of milk and water
to a temperature of 90 degrees ; dissolve the yeast in lukewarm water ;
make a thick sponge batter using about 25 pounds of strong flour. This
should be about the consistency of a soft dough. Allow this to rise and
drop about one-fourth inch, then mix in the balance of the ingredients.
Allow this dough to come up once very full, the second time up about
three-fourths, and the third time about 15 to 20 minutes; then divide
into sections for the various varieties of coffee cake.
The selling price for this coffee cake per pound, plus the fillings,
should average 35 to 40 cents per pound, with 35 cents as the minimum
selling price per pound. The price should be set to conform to the
scale weight in dough and not baked weight.
DANISH PASTRY 23
COFFEE CAKE Goons AND SWEET DOUGH
Coffee Cake for General Purposes This dough can be used as a
base for snails, wreath cakes, plain buns, finger rolls, and a general
line of coffee cake.
For a straight dough coffee cake, weigh down the following : 1
quart of milk and water heated to 90 degrees, 8 ounces sugar, 12 ounces
shortening. 2y 2 ounces yeast, 2 eggs, y ounce salt, little mace and
lemon oil, strong flour, make a fairly soft dough.
Quantities of coffee cake dough are usually referred to and meas-
ured by the quart of liquid, therefore in ordering any quantity of cof-
fee cake, orders are placed for one, two or three, or as many quarts as
required.
When mixing large quantities of coffee cake reduce the amount
of yeast per quart. Thus a 12 quart batch would take 12 ounces to 16
ounces to properly ferment within a reasonable time.
General method for preparing coffee cake dough as follows : Short-
ening and sugar are rubbed to a light cream, the spices added, then
the yeast is dissolved and added to the liquid ; flour and salt added, and
lastly creamed shortening and sugar. This is allowed to raise to full
proof, similar to the proof given a bread dough, then knocked down and
allowed to prove a second time. This dough is usually taken on the
third time up and worked into the desired shapes.
APPLE, PEACH, PLUM, CAKE, ETC.
For individual apple cake, line some layer cake pans with the sweet
dough. Arrange some apples divided into eight pieces on top of the
dough. Prove a little, then sprinkle over a little cinnamon sugar.
Bake with a round of stiff paper, cut to the size of the pan, on top.
This should be greased slightly. When baked let stand with the paper
cover over a few minutes before removing. Brush over while warm
with hot apricot jelly. For large apple cake proceed in the same way
as for the individual size. For peach, plum, etc., line the pans as for
apple cake and arrange the fruit as neatly as possible. For peach cake
cut the peaches into quarters and arrange them into a gradually nar-
rowing circle to the center. Prove and bake. Wash with hot apricot
jelly when coming from oven. Proceed in the same way with the plums.
APRICOT CAKE
For apricot cake pin out a piece of plain coffee cake dough the
length and width of a baking sheet and x /2 inch thick. Place this on a
greased baking sheet. Give about half proof, then make some impres-
sions in the dough with the top of a tea biscuit cutter an equal distance
apart. Place half a preserved apricot within each impression and gran-
ulated sugar over the whole. Finish proving and bake. Cut in pieces
to retail at 30 cents each.
WALNUT ROLLS
For walnut rolls pin out a piece of dough as for snails, brush over
some warm butter and sprinkle over pretty thickly a mixture composed
of crushed walnuts and powdered sugar in equal proportions. Roll up
and make the closing hold with a little egg wash. Cut into pieces to
weigh 2 l /2 ounces each and place 7 in a round pan which has been heav-
24 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
ily greased and then well dusted with brown sugar. Prove and bake.
Turn upside down as they come from the oven. Retail at 30 to 40 cents
the ring, according to the locality.
BUTTER SCOTCH BUNS
A very delicious coffee cake is made by rolling a piece of dough
to ^4 inch in thickness. Cream together 3 pounds of brown sugar. 1
pound of shortening, and 1 pound of butter to a very light cream.
Spread this thinly over the whole sheet of dough and sprinkle over
either roasted chopped nuts or chopped walnuts. Roll up the dough
as for snails, and close the dough by washing the end with egg wash.
Grease some round pans rather heavily with butter, and shortening, in
equal proportions, and dust out with sifted brown sugar. Cut out in
sections as for snails and place with the cut end to the pan and 6 or 7
in each pan. Prove until almost double in size, then bake on flat bak-
ing sheet in moderate oven. Turn out of the pans while still hot. The
combination of shortening and sugar will give these buns a very nice
glaze, in fact, a candy is formed in the oven.
APRICOT JELLY
To prepare the jelly for brushing over apple cake, etc., weigh down
the following : 10 pounds apricots, strain these through a coarse sieve,
place in a copper kettle and to this add 10 pounds granulated sugar.
Bring to a boil and allow to boil steadily for 25 minutes.
CHEESE CAKE
Line some layer cake pans with deep sides with sweet dough. Prove
for 15 to 20 minutes, then trim the edges and prepare the following : 4
pounds sugar, 2 l /2 pounds shortening (part butter), 7 ounces corn
starch, juice and grating of 7 lemons, 24 eggs and 8 pounds cheese.
Rub the shortening and sugar to a light cream, beat up the eggs and
add in three separate quantities, beat well after each addition, add the
corn starch, then the juice and grating of lemons, lastly cheese. Fill
the pans almost level, sprinkle over a few currants, then a dust of cin-
namon. Bake in medium oven.
CHEESE FOR CHEESE CAKE
The cheese is prepared by allowing milk to get sour and lumpy in
the can. This requires at least 3 to 4 days in the winter time, but in
real hot weather 1 or 2 days will do the trick. Pour this into a clean
flour sack and hang up for 2 or 3 days, then press through a fine sieve
before using.
STREUHSEL BUNS
Break off pieces of dough to scale 10 to the pound. Roll up round,
then oval in shape. Pin out to l / inch in thickness and place to touch
on a baking sheet. Wash with eggs and prove. Before baking sprin-
kle over thickly a mixture composed of the following 1 pound short-
ening (part butter), 1 pound sugar, a little vanilla and cinnamon. 2
eggs, 2 pounds flour. Cream together the shortening and sugar, add
the eggs and flavoring. Rub in flour lightly. Bake in moderate oven.
For large Streuhsel cake weigh off into piece's scaling at 12 ounces.
DANISH PASTRY 25
Pin out to 1/2 inch in thickness and proceed in the same way as for
Streuhsel buns.
NUT ROLLS
Pin out a piece of dough as for snails, wash with butter and sprin-
kle over a little cinnamon sugar, chopped almonds and raisins, fold
the two ends into the center, wash with butter and lap one end over.
This should leave a piece of dough 6 inches wide. Cut into pieces 1/2
inch wide. Give a little twist as for coffee rings and place together on
the pan. Wash with egg, prove and before baking sprinkle over a few
chopped almonds. Wash with water icing when partly cool.
POPPY SEED STRUDEL
Pin out a piece of dough oblong shape and spread over evenly a
mixture composed of the following: 1 pound almond paste, % pound
crumbs, 1^ pounds poppy seed (ground), sufficient eggs to make into
a paste that will spread easily. Roll up, wash the end with egg to make
the closing hold. Flatten out a little and cut into strips the length of
a baking sheet. Wash with egg wash, prove and bake. When baked
wash with water icing and cut slantwise into portions 1^2 inches wide.
COFFEE AND TEA RINGS ROLLED IN BUTTER
For bakers who cater to a high class trade and are looking for
something exceptionally good along these lines, would recommend the
following as likely to fill the bill. Very few bakers are familiar with
rich butter doughs, but when once the proper handling of these doughs
is mastered there is nothing in the coffee cake line to equal them for
quality. The doughs for this purpose are usually made rich with eggs
and sugar in the first place. Then after proving a little the butter is
rolled in as for pastry. In summer time in a rich dough where as high
as 4 pounds of butter to 8 pounds of dough is used it is necessary to
keep in the icebox or over ice until working off. Three pastry turns
are sufficient for a rich dough with an interval of half an hour between
turns. This is the usual way of running all rich butter doughs. Rich
almond paste fillings are used for making the higher priced coffee
rings, one or two of which are given. For a coffee ring to sell at 25
and 30 cents each, prepare a dough from the following : 15 quarts milk,
4 quarts eggs, 9 pounds sugar, 6 pounds butter and lard, 6 ounces salt,
3 pounds yeast (young dough) flour, knock down in 2 hours, then take
in 15 minutes. To every 20 pounds of dough roll in 2 l /2 pounds butter,
give one pastry turn and work off quickly in the usual way.
For higher priced rings roll in a little more buttei and sprinkle
over a few chopped almonds, before baking. Wash with water icing
when partly cool.
ALMOND FLAKED TEA RINGS
One quart milk, !/2 pound sugar, 1 quart eggs, 5 ounces yeast, lit-
tle salt, dough up soft. Roll in 3 pounds butter to 9 pounds dough.
Scale dough 1 pound 2 ounces each piece and 14 ounces of filling.
FILLING FOR ALMOND FLAKED TEA RINGS
One pound sugar, 1 pound almond paste, 5 eggs, 1V2 pounds raisins.
Rub the almond paste smooth with the eggs, add the sugar, then the
26 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
raisins. Pin out the dough and cut into oblong shaped strips. Take a
piece of the filling (14 ounces) and roll into a long strip and place down
the center. Wash one end of the dough with egg wash and roll up to
completely envelop the filling. Prove and sprinkle over a few chopped
almonds. Bake and when partly cool, frost with white icing.
ZWIEBACK
Roll out some sweet dough, French bread style, but a little thicker,
prove and bake. When a day old cut into slices % inch thick, place
together on a baking sheet and toast in a brisk oven.
FANCY ZWIEBACK
Roll up the sweet dough into small rolls 3 inches long, and 1 inch
wide, place in rows and close together on a baking sheet. Prove and
bake. When a day old cut into slices, dip lightly into a mixture of
half egg and milk, then into Streuhsel crumbs or flaked almonds.
ALMOND ZWIEBACK
Before toasting spread the slices with a mixture prepared from the
following: y 2 pound almond paste, % pound sugar, 6 or 7 whites of
eggs. Rub all together well, spread thinly on toast.
CHAPTER 3.
DOUGHNUTS, FRIED CAKES OR CRULLERS
The world war forever fixed the place of doughnuts, but it remains
for the baker to see that their present popularity is never in jeopardy.
An old industry was given a new lease of life when our boys returned
from ' ' over there ' ' and the advertising that this popular and distinctly
American confection has received since that time has been phenomenal.
So much so that I feel justified in devoting several pages of this book
to exclusive formulas that have won a national reputation for quality.
Each one of the following formulas is a winner, and the quality may
be determined in the order in which the formulas follow.
SPECIAL DOUGHNUTS
These doughnuts should be dusted with powdered sugar after they
are cooled, with which has been sifted a little cinnamon. The formula
is as follows: 6 pounds sugar, 5 ounces butter, 1 quart egg yolks
(either fresh or frozen), 4 quarts whole milk, 17 pounds soft winter
wheat flour, 12 ounces baking powder, 3 ounces salt, 2 ounces nutmeg,
1 tablespoon vanilla, 1 tablespoon lemon.
Fry in grease or oil with butter oil flavoring added. These dough-
nuts are very high grade and can be sold in boxes of one-half dozen
or dozen. A very neat way of packing is to place same in a cardboard
box lined with glassine paper. These doughnuts retail anything from
35 cents to 45 cents per dozen and sometimes higher than that.
DOUGHNUTS, FRIED CAKES OR CRULLERS, No. 2
Two pounds granulated sugar, 2 pounds powdered sugar, 2 pounds
butter, 1 quart egg yolks, 2% quarts milk, 13 pounds cake flour, 8
ounces baking powder, juice and gratings of 3 lemons, y ounce mace,
V"2 ounce salt.
BAG DOUGHNUTS, FRIED CAKES OR CRULLERS, No. 3
Five pounds 10 ounces sugar, % pounds butter, 16 pounds flour, 2
ounces soda, 4 ounces cream of tartar, iy 2 quarts eggs, 2 ounces salt, 1
ounce mace, vanilla, 4!/2 quarts milk.
NEW YORK FORMULA FOR MACHINE DOUGHNUTS, No. 4
Six pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 2 quarts eggs, 5 ounces cream of
tartar, 2y 2 ounces soda, 16 pounds flour, 2 ounces salt, 1 ounce nutmeg,
vanilla flavoring, 4 quarts milk. Produces 45 dozen.
DOUGHNUTS, FRIED CAKES OR CRULLERS, No. 5
Fifteen pounds flour, 32 eggs, 5 quarts milk, 1 ounce mixed spices,
nutmeg and mace, 4 ounces cream of tartar or cream of tartar substi-
28
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
tute, 1 pound lard or other shortening (preferably a vegetable shorten-
ening), 2 ounces bicarbonate of soda, 6 pounds sugar, 1^ ounces salt.
Produces about 600 doughnuts.
DOUGHNUTS, FRIED CAKES OR CRULLERS
A cruller mixture containing sponge may be made from the fol-
lowing formula
Sponge Hard wheat flour, 10 pounds ; water, 6 pounds ; yeast, 4
ounces. Mix the same as you mix a sponge for bread dough. This
sponge will be ready when it begins to recede, about 2y 2 hours.
Cruller Formula Sugar, 1 pound ; shortening, 4 ounces ; eggs, 1 ;
milk, 1 quart; flour, 3% to 4 pounds; mace, y ounce: salt. !/2 ounce;
vanilla flavor, baking powder, l 1 /^ ounces.
Method Rub the sugar, shortening, eggs and salt to a creamy con-
sistency. Add the milk and slightly break up l 1 /^ pounds to 2 pounds
of the sponge. Next add the flour and mix to a smooth cruller dough.
The cruller should be submerged in the grease during the entire fry-
ing. The temperature of the grease should be 365 to 370 degrees.
BRIOCHE BREAD
CHAPTER 4.
BRIOCHE
This is a fancy fermented cake very popular in France and which
is rapidly gaining favor in this country. It should be a popular addi-
tion to the line of goods of any high grade store, especially those run-
ning a tea room or coffee parlor as a side line. In Europe it is usually
eaten with wine or coffee, made in small or oval finger shapes, and
sandwiched together with either cream or savory filling. It is a de-
lightful sandwich to serve in the tea rooms, which I think are fast be-
coming popular.
For the brioche weigh down the following quantities of materials :
Sponge 2 pounds flour, 1 quart of milk, 2 ounces yeast. Warm the
milk to about blood heat over the stove ; in this dissolve the yeast, then
stir in the flour. Set away in a warm place to rise. Now prepare the
following dough : 4 pounds strong flour, 30 eggs, 6 ounces sugar. Sieve
the flour into a bowl, make a bay and place in the eggs and 6 ounces
of the sugar. Make this into a real tough dough by stretching and
banging on .the bench; work into this dough 4 pounds butter slowly,
add about one-half pound at a time and work the dough well after
each addition. When all the butter is in take the sponge, which should
have risen enough by this time, and work into the butter dough with
6 ounces more sugar. Just mix through the sponge suf ficient to make
a clear dough. Put this away in a cool place for from eight to ten
hours. This is really an over night dough and if possible it should have
one knockdown during that time, say after six or seven hours. When
the dough is ready turn out onto the bench. For large rings scale at
1 pound 2 ounces; for ring twists 15 ounces. Pinch off the dough for
small rolls to scale 16 or 17 to the pound. The large rings are prepared
by first handing the dough up round. Allow this to stand a little
while, then make a hole in the center. Gradually open this out by let-
ting it run through the hands. Place onto baking sheets and brush
over with a heavy wash of egg yolks. Let stand a little while and give
another coating of egg yolks; give small proof, then make some inci-
sions with a pair of scissors around the top of the ring. Leave plain or
sprinkle a little granulated sugar with a few flaked almonds on top.
Hake in sound oven. For serving in tea rooms or coffee parlors the
handiest shapes are the oval arid finger rolls. These should be kept
small, as their smallness increases their daintiness. Give two coatings
of egg wash and mark several times on top with a sharp knife. The
fancy shaped rolls are usually eaten plain. The very smallest amount of
proof is necessary to keep them in perfect shape ; in fact, this rule
should apply to all brioche. The large rings retail at 35 cents each;
the ring twists at 30 cents and the small rolls at 25 to 30 cents per
dozen. If a faster dough is needed use 6 to 8 ounces of yeast to this
quantity of dough. This should be ready in about four hours with one
30
knockdown. Care should be taken to have the dough kept real cool
at all times, as it contains quite a quantity of butter. Without excep-
tion brioche is the richest fermented dough made, that is one from
which small rolls are made, and I can highly recommend this recipe to
any baker looking for something in this class. The distinguishing
characteristic of brioche is its short and cheesy nature when eaten.
UNFERMENTED BRIOCHE
Four pounds flour, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ounce bicarbonate
of soda, % pound butter, 8 eggs, 3 ounces sugar, 1 ounce of salt and
milk. Thoroughly mix the flour and chemicals together by sifting
them; rub in the butter, make a bay; add sugar, salt, eggs and suffi-
cient milk to make a fairly free dough. Make into various fancy
shapes; wash with yolks of eggs, let stand for half an hour and bake
in hot oven.
CHAPTERS.
CAKES FOR EVERY DAY SALES
TEA BISCUITS
Six pounds flour, 3 ounces cream of tartar, 1^ ounces soda, 1
pound lard, 4 ounces sugar, 1 ounce salt, 2 quarts milk. Rub the lard
into the flour, make a bay, place in the rest of the ingredients, lastly
milk. Mix into a clear dough without toughening too much. Cut out
with 2 inch plain cutter, pan close together on lightly greased baking
sheets, wash with egg and bake in hot oven. Retail at so much per
dozen.
JELLY ROLL No. 1
Two quarts eggs, 4^2 pounds granulated sugar, 2y% pounds strong
flour, vanilla flavor. Beat up the eggs and granulated sugar as for
sponge cake. Flavor with vanilla and mix through the flour lightly.
Divide between four papered baking sheets. When baked turn onto
clean sacks, wet the papers and remove, spread over thinly some rasp-
berry jam and roll tight, let stand tightly rolled in sack until quite
cold. Then cut into sections.
JELLY ROLL No. 2
Ten pounds sugar (half granulated and half powdered), 6 quarts
eggs, 1 ounce soda, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 2 ounces orange flower
water, 10 pounds flour. This mixture is for the highest class trade.
Place the eggs in the beater, add the sugar and beat up well, get it out
into a bowl and sift the soda in through a fine sieve and also add the
flavor, thoroughly mix in the cream of tartar through the sifted flour
and carefully mix into a clear dough ; spread it out in the usual way on
pans and when baked spread on thinly raspberry jam and roll up tight
in paper.
LADY FINGERS No. 1
One quart whites, % quarts yolks, 2 pounds powdered sugar, 2
pounds flour (half strong, half soft). Beat up the whites good and
stiff in either the kettle or machine, add about half the sugar gradually,
beat well after each addition. Now mix through the yolks gently, then
the remainder of the sugar with a little vanilla extract, mix through the
flour lightly with the hand. Sieve enough powdered sugar so that when
spread out it will be the length and breadth of a baking sheet. Lay out
the fingers with a bag and V\ inch plain tube on papers, pick up and
drop onto the powdered sugar, then onto the baking sheet. Bake in
sound oven. Remove from the papers by wetting the back and sand-
wich together in pairs. This is by far the best way to make lady fin-
gers, making a nice, bold, soft eating finger. Of course care should be
32 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
taken to have the whites nice and clean and to see that the receptacle
in which they are beaten up is also. Retail at so much per pound.
LADY FINGERS No. 2
One quart eggs, ^ pint yolks, 2 pounds granulated sugar, 2 pounds
flour (half strong and half soft). Warm the eggs, yolks and sugar
over the stove and beat up until light and thick, add a little flavoring,
then the flour. Proceed in the same way as for Lady Fingers No. 1.
ANGEL FOOD
One quart whites, 2 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pound soft flour, !/4
ounce of cream of tartar, 1 ounce corn starch, vanilla flavor. Beat up
the whites fairly stiff, then gradually beat in 1 pound of the sugar with
a good pinch of cream of tartar. Stir in the remainder of the sugar
mixed with the flour and cream of tartar. Soak the angel food pans
in cold water before using. Fill level and bake in moderate oven. Will
make seven to sell at 25 to 30 cents each. When baked and cool frost
with either white or chocolate fondant.
CRULLERS
Eight pounds flour, 3 ounces baking powder, l / 2 pound butter and
lard, 2 pounds sugar, 8 eggs, 4^ pints milk. Place the sugar, fat and
eggs together in a bowl. Rub a little and add a few drops of lemon oil
with a little egg color. Add the milk, then the flour and baking pow-
der. Mix sufficient to clear the dough. Cut out with regular cruller
.cutter and fry.
CHAPTEE 6.
PIES
Pie paste is a difficult thing for which to give any standard recipe.
Flour and lards vary so much in quality that it is best left to the baker
to adjust the recipe to the materials at hand. One shipment of lard
may be tough and another light and short, one contains more fat and
the other vice versa, so if the recipe given does not give satisfactory
results look to your materials. Flours vary in softness and likewise
water absorbing qualities. Both flour and lard are important in the
manufacture of good paste, so care in the selection of materials is neces-
sary if you would produce good pies.
For the paste weigh down the following : 12 pounds soft flour. G 1 /^
pounds lard, 4 ounces salt, 2 quarts water. Rub the lard through the
flour, add the salt and lastly water. Put together without overwork-
ing. A special paste for pies is given under the heading puff pastry
recipe No. 3.
PIE FILLINGS
Pie fillings, with the methods of preparation, etc., have been writ-
ten about so many times in the trade journals and every baker seems to
have his own method of preparing same, therefore I will touch very
lightly upon this subject. One thing I would like to mention. When-
ever possible use fresh fruit in preference to canned. Sharpen the taste
of fruit with an insipid flavor with the juice of lemons. Some fruits
should be partly cooked before placing in the pies. When using canned
fruits that are inclined to be sloppy after the addition of sugar would
advise cooking over the stove for a few minutes and adding 2 ounces
of cornstarch to each gallon of fruit.
CUSTARD FILLING FOR CUSTARD PIES
One quart milk, 4 eggs, 4 yolks, 6 ounces sugar, a little vanilla and
mace for flavoring.
LEMON PIE FILLING
Six quarts water, 5 pounds sugar, 16 eggs, juice and zest of 14
lemons, 1 pound 2 ounces corn starch. Place the sugar and water in a
copper kettle and bring to the boil, add the juice and lemon zest, then
the eggs and corn starch, which have been previously mixed together,
stir vigorously while adding eggs and corn starch and cook for a few
seconds over the stove. Fill level in the baked shells.
PUMPKIN PIE FILLING
One pint milk, 1 quart pumpkin, y 2 pound sugar, 1/2 ounce salt, !/2
ounce ginger, 14 ounce cinnamon, 5 eggs, 1% ounces butter. Cheapen
by the addition of 1 pint milk and 2 ounces flour.
34 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
CHOCOLATE CREAM PIES
Chocolate cream pies are finished in the same way as lemon cream
pies. For the chocolate cream weigh down the following : 1 quart milk,
5 eggs, 2 ounces corn starch, 6 ounces sugar, 4 ounces sweet chocolate,
2 ounces butter. Bring the milk to the boil over the stove, add sugar,
eggs and corn starch mixed together, stir a few minutes until it thick-
ens. Remove from the stove and add sweet chocolate, batter and a lit-
tle vanilla flavor, stir until dissolved. Fill into the baked shells while
warm.
COVERING MERINGUE FOR LEMON AND CHOCOLATE CREAM PIES
One quart whites, 3 pounds powdered sugar, pinch cream of tartar,
little vanilla flavor. Beat up the whites until stiff, add a pinch of
cream of tartar, then beat in gradually half the sugar, mix through the
remainder slowly with the hand or whip.
PUMPKIN PIE No. 2
In most high class stores a pumpkin pie with a nice yellow color
is usually asked for. To obtain this it is absolutely necessary to use
a fine grade of pumpkin. Providing everything is all right in this re-
spect weigh down the following : To each quart of pumpkin use 1 quart
milk, y 2 pound sugar, 5 eggs, little clove, cinnamon and mace.
OPEN FRUIT TARTS
For open fruit tarts line some 9 to 12 inch layer cake pans with
sweet short dough. For pineapple take a can of preserved pineapple,
tear it apart in small pieces with a fork, sprinkle a few cake crumbs
on the bottom of the tart, then the pineapple. Wash the edges with
egg, then place strips of sweet short dough opposite ways, forming a
series of diamond shaped spaces. Wash with egg and bake on the sole
of the oven. When baked turn out and brush with hot apricot jelly.
Other tarts are prepared in the same way. In the case of blueberries,
etc., first cook the fruit with sugar and add 4 ounces corn starch to the
gallon, allow to cool off before using. Retail from 30 to 50 cents each.
CHAPTER 7.
COOKIES
For premier cookies weigh down the following : 4 pounds soft
flour, 3 pounds sugar, 3 pounds lard, 2y 2 pounds golden syrup, 2
ounces baking soda, 16 eggs, 1*4 ounces ginger. Sieve the soda with
the flour and make into a bay. Place in the butter, sugar, syrup and
eggs. Dough up in the usual way for cookies. Roll out very thin and
cut out with cutter 2y 2 inches in diameter. Turn onto granulated
sugar and place on well greased pans ; 12 on a pan is sufficient, as
they spread quite a lot. Bake in moderate oven. Will make 24 dozen.
QUEEN COOKIES
Six and a half pounds of soft flour, 4 pounds granulated sugar, 2
pounds lard, 14 eggs, % pint milk, l 1 /^ ounces ammonia. Sieve the
flour and granulated sugar together and rub in the lard. Make a bay,
dissolve the ammonia in the mix, add the eggs and dough up in the
usual way. Pin out real thin and cut out with 3-inch scalloped cutter
and place on greased pans. Wash with a little egg, molasses and water
mixed together. Bake in good oven.
HONEY COOKIES
For honey cookies weigh down the following: 14 pounds flour, 1
gallon of honey, % pound sugar, 1 pound lard, 4 ounces baking soda, 8
eggs, about 1 pint water, 1 ounce ammonia, ginger and lemon for fla-
vor. Rub the lard into the flour, make a bay and place in the remain-
der of the ingredients. Dough up in the usual way. This dough should
be allowed to stand over night to mature. When ready pin out fairly
thin and cut out with 2^-inch scalloped cutter. Place on greased pans
and bake in medium oven. Retail at 20 to 25 cents per dozen. This
makes a real nice eating cooky when properly made and one that shows
a good profit.
FIG COOKIES
For fig cookies weigh down the following : 5 pounds sugar, 3%
pounds lard, 1 ounce cinnamon, 1% ounces soda, l 1 /^ pounds figs, 1^4
pounds raisins, 1 quart eggs, 1 quart milk, 9 pounds flour, 4 ounces
cream of tartar. Rub together the lard and sugar, add the eggs in two
additions, then the milk and lastly flour, baking powder, raisins, figs
(coarsely chopped) and spices. Drop out with the hand on greased
pans in drops about twice the size of a silver dollar, dust with granu-
lated sugar and bake in moderate oven. Retail at 20 to 25 cents per
dozen.
36 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
RAISIN COOKIES
Two pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter and lard, 10 eggs, 3 pounds
raisins, 4 pounds flour, 1 ounce baking powder, vanilla flavoring. Rub
the fat and sugar together a little, add the eggs and flavoring, then the
raisins, lastly flour and baking powder. Pin out to % inch in thickness
and cut out with plain cutter 2y 2 inches in diameter; pan onto dry
baking sheets. Retail at 20 cents per dozen.
GINGER COOKIES
One pound butter and lard, 1 quart molasses and honey, 4 eggs, 2
ounces soda, 4 pounds flour, 1 ounce ginger, little cinnamon, cloves
and mace. Rub the butter and lard together in the bowl, add the
molasses and eggs, then the spices, the soda, dissolved in a little milk,
and lastly flour. Pin out to % inch in thickness, cut out with plain
cutter 2*4 inches in diameter, turn onto granulated sugar, then onto
greased pans. Bake.
WHITE SUGAR COOKIES
Two pounds sugar, 1 pound butter and lard, % pint of eggs, 1 pint
milk, 4 pounds flour, 1 ounce cream of tartar, y 2 ounce soda. Rub the
butter and sugar together, add the eggs with a little lemon flavoring,
then the milk, lastly flour and baking powder. Pin out the same as
for ginger cookies, turn onto granulated sugar, then onto greased pans.
Bake.
OATMEAL COOKIES
Six pounds sugar, 3 pounds lard, 3 pounds oatmeal, 2 pounds rai-
sins, l l /2 ounces soda, 1 pint water, 10 eggs, 6 pounds flour. Rub the
sugar and lard together, add the eggs, then the water and fruit, lastly
add the flour and oatmeal. Pin out on the bench fairly thin, cut out
with plain round cutter 2y 2 inches in diameter, place on greased pans
and bake in moderate oven.
FANCY BUTTER COOKIES
For fancy butter cookies weigh down the following: 2 l / 2 pounds
sugar, 4 pounds butter, 12 eggs, 6 pounds soft flour, vanilla flavor.
Cream the butter and sugar together, add the eggs a few at a time, then
the vanilla extract and lastly flour. With a bag and small star tube
lay out in small shapes on baking sheet (not greased), describe a circle
when laying out with the bag. By the time the whole mix is laid out
the first pan will be ready. Now make a small hole in the center of
each cooky by pressing in with the finger almost to the pan. Place a
spot of apricot jelly in half the mix with a little raspberry jam in the
other half. Bake in medium oven.
GINGER NUTS
Six pounds of soft flour, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ounce bicar-
bonate of soda, 1 pound of sugar, 10 ounces butter and lard, 5 pounds
of molasses, y 2 ounce mixed spice, l l / 2 ounces ginger. Sift the flour,
cream of tartar and soda together, make a bay and place in the sugar,
ginger and spice. Put the butter, lard and molasses in a lar pounds almond paste,
2V4 quarts eggs, 12y 2 pounds flour, 3 ounces soda, 4^ quarts milk,
3% pounds chopped walnuts, 4 l /2 pounds granulated sugar, iy 2 pints
water, 2*4 pounds bitter chocolate. Place the -iy 2 pounds granulated
sugar and l l / 2 pints water together and bring to the boil over the fire ;
take off the stove and to this add 2V4 pounds bitter chocolate. Now
prepare the mix. Cream together the butter, sugar and almond paste ;
add the eggs gradually, beating well after each addition; mix in the
chocolate syrup, then the milk and lastly flour, baking soda and
chopped walnuts. Scale at 12 ounces into the round layer cake pans.
Bake in moderate oven.
WHITE LAYERS
Seven pounds flour, 7 pounds sugar, 2 l / 2 pounds butter, 2 ounces of
baking powder, l l / 2 quarts milk, 2 quarts egg whites; cream together
the butter and sugar ; add the egg whites gradually, with the last two
additions of egg whites throw in about l / 2 pound flour each time. Place
in the milk and mix in the flour and baking powder. Scale at 14
ounces into square and round layers. Bake in moderate oven.
FRUIT LAYERS
One and one-half pounds almond paste, 1 pound chopped almonds
(not too fine), % pound chopped preserved fruit (pineapple, cherries,
etc.), 1 pound sugar, 10 yolks, 10 whites, 3 ounces flour, zest of 3 lem-
ons, zest of 2 oranges; cream the almond paste, sugar and yolks to-
gether; mix in the fruit, flour, juice and zest of oranges and lemons;
lastly add the whites beaten to a stiff foam ; mix through lightly. This
mix will make six square layers. Bake in cool oven.
This layer is used more as a filler than for anything else ; it has a
fine flavor and sandwiched between two layers of any of the foregoing
mixtures with a fruit icing on top makes a layer that cannot be sur-
passed for quality and appearance.
BUTTER SPONGE LAYERS
For butter sponge layers weigh down the following : 8 pounds
granulated sugar, 6 quarts eggs, 2*/ 2 quarts yolks, 6 pounds flour, 3
HIGH GRADE LAYER CAKES
59
pounds butter^ Place the eggs, yolks and sugar in a copper kettle and
warm through on the stove; place in the machine and beat up as for
sponge cake ; when light mix in the flour lightly and lastly add the
butter, which has been previously melted on the stove ; fill in square
layer pans level with the top, using a pie plate for the purpose to avoid
handling the mix as much as possible. Bake in moderate oven.
CHOCOLATE WALNUT LAYERS
For chocolate walnut layers sandwich one square white layer
between the chocolate layers, using the chocolate walnut filling. Mask
the sides with a little meringue and dip in coarsely chopped walnuts.
Ice the top with chocolate fondant and divide into 16 squares with lines
of yellow fondant, as shown in cut. Place half a walnut within each
square.
PUNCH LAYERS
Sandwich three of the yellow sheet layers together with the punch
filling. Mask the sides with meringue and press into the sides roasted
flaked almonds. Frost the top with white fondant and with bag and
star tube make a neat border, etc., using the punch filling.
Punch Layer Cake
Chocolate ^'alnut Layer
LEMON LAYERS
Take 2^ yellow layers for one lemon layer. Spread a layer of
lemon filling on one whole layer, place the half layer on top of this and
give another layer of filling. Place a whole layer on top. Mask the
sides with meringue and dip in coarsely chopped pecan nuts that have
been partly roasted in the oven. Frost the top with a frosting made
from XXXX sugar and the juice and zest of lemons. Place a ring of
half pecan nuts around the edge. This makes a most delicious eating
layer. Place in sufficient filling so that the layer will shake lightly
when it is touched.
CHOCOLATE GINGER LAYERS
Take three of the ginger layers and sandwich together with rasp-
berry jam. Wash with apricot jelly and frost with chocolate fondant.
Place two or three pieces of preserved ginger on top.
60 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
PECAN LAYERS
For the pecan layers coarsely chopped pecan nuts should be added
to the white layer cake mix, not a large quantity, but just sufficient to
shoM T a nice face when cut. Scale the same as for plain white layers.
Sandwich three of the pecan layers together with marshmallow fla-
vored with a little kirschwasser. Spread a little on the sides and on
top. Place away in the icebox for a while to set firm. Frost the whole
with white fondant to which has been added a little kirschwasser and
sieve over the top finely ground pecan nuts that have been roasted a
little in the oven. This makes a nice compact layer, clean to handle.
Of course, in localities where 80 or 90 cents is the highest price it is
possible to obtain for a layer of this class, vanilla flavor should be used
in the place of kirschwasser.
CHERRY LAYERS
Sandwich one square white layer between two square yellow sheet
layers using the cherry marshmallow as a filler. Spread a little of the
filling on top and sides. Cover the whole with fondant and place two
cherries at each corner, with strips of angelica for stalks. Another
way is to press roasted flaked almonds into the sides, frost the top
with white fondant and finish in the same manner as when iced plain
white. (See Plate 6.)
MIXED FRUIT LAYERS
Sandwich one of the fruit layers from the fruit layer cake mix
between two of the yellow sheet layers, using raspberry jam as the
filler. Mask the sides with meringue and press in white flaked
almonds. Frost the top with a fruit icing made by mixing some coarsely
chopped pineapple and cherries through the white fondant. Place a
ball of the chopped fruit at each corner of layer and make a neat bor-
der of the punch filling. To make the balls of chopped fruit roll be-
tween the hands to make into ball shape and turn onto coarse granu-
lated sugar. Place in position with a little white fondant to make them
adhere to the layer.
'LADY BALTIMORE LAYERS
For the Lady Baltimore layers mix together 3 pounds figs (chopped
fairly fine), 3 pounds Sultana raisins, 3 pounds of roasted pecan nuts,
coarsely chopped. Make some meringue with 3 quarts whites, 14
pounds powdered sugar and vanilla flavor. When made, mix the dry
ingredients through. Take three of the round white layers, spread a
good layer of the filling between each layer and cover the top and sides
to the extent of l / inch in thickness. Place in the oven until the edges
are tinted a pale brown.
PREMIER LAYERS
For premier layers sandwich one of the yellow sheet layers between
two square chocolate layers, using the punch filling as a filler. Trim
the sides, brush over with hot apricot jelly and frost with chocolate
fondant. Execute a little design on top with the punch filling, using a
star tube.
HIGH GRADE LAYER CAKES
61
ORANGE COCOANUT CAKES
Grate the zest from one to two oranges, according to size ; mix this
through some freshly beaten meringue. Take three of the white layers
arid sandwich them together with orange meringue, with a little freshly
grated cocoanut mixed through. Cover the whole with orange mer-
ingue and press freshly grated cocoanut into the sides and on top. Or-
ange marshmallow is sometimes used in preference to the meringue, as
this will keep soft between the layers for a much longer time than
when using meringue. However, either will make a delightful and
tasty confection.
BANANA TARTS
For banana tarts take a single layer cake, one sealed at 10 to 12
ounces, from a nice layer cake mixture ; slice in two and cut some nice
firm bananas lengthwise and place on half the layer ; use two bananas
to each layer. Brush over the bananas with a fairly heavy syrup and
spread over a thin layer of cream. Place the other half layer on top
and spread a little cream around the sides ; dip in roasted flaked
almonds. Put a good layer of cream on top and pipe on a neat border ;
place half a banana, divided lengthwise on top with a cherry and an-
gelica. Brush over the banana with strong syrup (this prevents the
banana from going dark). They are a very classy looking article and
retail from 45 cents to 50 cents each.
PINEAPPLE SNOW CAKE
For pineapple snow cake take three of the white layers, drain the
liquid from a can of preserved pineapple and chop up the pineapple
fairly thin. Spread a layer of the chopped pineapple on one of the
white layers and over this spread a thin layer of meringue. Proceed
in this way until the three layers are in position. Cover the whole with
a layer of meringue about 14 inch in thickness, dust lightly with pow-
dered sugar and place in the oven until the edges are tinted a light
brown.
Banana Tart
82
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
Pastry Charlottes
Spanish Puffs
Opera Pastries
Cream Baskets
Matinee Creams
Punch Buns
CHAPTER 12.
CREAM GOODS
The following recipes are for exceedingly choice goods and should
be a welcome addition to the list of cream goods of any high class firm.
The list also includes recipes for ordinary goods for the benefit of
those who have had but little experience along these lines. They should
prove beneficial to the trade at large.
SPONGE CASING FOR CHARLOTTE RUSSE
There are several good methods of making the sponge casing for
charlotte russe. In quite a few high class stores it is customary to
make use of stale lady fingers for the purpose, but where a large quan-
tity of charlottes are prepared this is hardly practical. For casing No.
1 weigh down the following 1 quart egg whites, % quart yolks, 1 pound
granulated sugar, 1 pound powdered sugar, 2 pounds flour (half strong,
half soft). Beat the whites to a stiff foam and add the granulated
sugar gradually, beating well after each addition; add the yolks and
beat 2 or 3 seconds more. Now stir through the powdered sugar with
the egg whip, and lastly add the flour; mix through lightly with the
hand. Fill the bag containing a lady finger tube with the mixture
and lay out in 3 strips on paper baking sheet. Do this by forcing the
mixture out lady finger shape, but close together and about 4 inches
wide. When baked, cut the strips down the center and length, accord-
ing to the size of the cups. In this way the charlottes have the appear-
ance of being lined with lady fingers without all the trouble attached
to the making and use of same. For those who have a large trade in
charlottes, would recommend the use of sheets, as these can be piled
011 top of each other and several hundred linings cut at one time. In a
large bakery I operated seven years ago we made quite a quantity of
charlottes each day and to do away with the annoying difference in
thickness of the sheets in places, a trouble hard to avoid when spread-
ing with a palette knife, we had a tube made, 5 inches long and i/j
inch wide ; this was attached in the same manner as the small rubber
bags and decorating tubes. In this way a ribbon of the mixture was
forced out, much in the same way as the tubes of dental cream. This did
away with all spreading ; the sheets were the same thickness, and what
is more important than anything in a mixture of this kind, more espe-
cially a large one, it had the advantage of speed. A mixture run out.
with the tube could be done in about half the time it would take to
spread with a bowl knife, and using the tube one was assured of
having the sheets of a uniform thickness.
For casing No. 2 weigh down the following: 2 quarts eggs, 4^
pounds granulated sugar, 2^/2 pounds flour (half strong, half soft).
Place the eggs and sugar in a copper kettle ?nd warm over the stove.
Place in the machine and. beat until light and thick, then mix through
64 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
the flour lightly with the hand. Proceed in the same way as for Cas-
ing No. 1. Bake in fairly hot oven.
PLAIN WHIPPED CREAM
For assisting cream to retain its firmness after whipping, gela-
tine should be used in the proportion of l / 2 pound to 5 gallons of cream.
The gelatine should not be used too warm or too thick. When using a
good brand of sheet gelatine a pound should be dissolved in l 1 /^ to 2
quarts of water. This should be thoroughly dissolved by placing in an
outer pan containing boiling water, and whatever quantity is needed
should be partly cooled off and the vanilla mixed with it before adding
to the cream. For sweetening purposes the usual quantity of sugar al-
lowed is 4 ounces to the quart, but this is entirely a matter of taste.
CHARLOTTE BUSSE
Line some charlotte russe cases with sponge sheet or lady fingers.
Fill a bag containing a IVk-inch plain tube or a large star tube and pipe
on a pyramid of whipped cream, bring to a point at the top. Retail
at 5 cents each.
DOUBLE CHARLOTTES
Take a small amount of whipped cream and make into a light
paste with some slightly warm melted bitter chocolate ; add this to the
bulk. Now line some charlotte russe cups as for plain charlottes ; fill
about two-thirds full with whipped cream, using a star tube, then top
off each one with a little of the chocolate whipped cream. The above
method of mixing the chocolate whipped cream is the only way in
which any degree of success is assured. If added to the bulk without
first making a paste the warm chocolate on contact with the cold cream
will set in small, hard lumps. Retail at 90 cents per dozen.
CHARLOTTES A LA CARDINAL
This is a very high class charlotte, but is rather a tricky mixture
to work out successfully at the first attempt. However, I hope this
won't deter any readers from attempting same, of course providing he
has a trade that .will stand for the price. Line some charlotte cups
with lady fingers. Now take 2 quarts of cream, have your assistant
beat this up, while you prepare the following: place 10 yolks of eggs
in a small bowl, add to this x /2 pound sugar and beat together until
fairly light, then add 1 gill of melted gelatine (proportion explained in
whipped cream). Pour this mixture into the yolks of eggs gradually
beating well while adding ; beat for a few seconds more, but on no ac-
count let it get too thick. Of course, this depends upon the temperature
of the bakery, as the gelatine setting will thicken the mixture. Then
add to the whipped cream. The mixture should be just thick enough
to pour into the whipped cream, but do not let it get above the pouring
stage or the resultant cream will be very disappointing. Fill in the
same way as for charlotte russe. Retail at 10 cents each.
LARGE CHARLOTTES
Large charlottes are usually prepared from large sponge cakes
hollowed out, then filled with cream. The best method of preparing
CREAM GOODS 65
these charlottes is to use lange du chat biscuits or wafers, made into
finger shapes around the sides. These are usually held in position by
the use of a little butter cream, then when the charlotte is finished
stretch a band of pale colored silk ribbon around the sides and finish
with a large bow. In this way additional strength is given the casing,
otherwise with such a soft and absorbent casing as sponge cake the
charlotte would fall to pieces in a very short time. The filling of cream
can be rounded off dome shape and further decorated with glace
fruit, etc.
A very effective way of finishing a large charlotte is to frost a
piece of charlotte casing with pink icing. When dry, cut into diamond
shapes, etc., and if necessary decorate with a little royal icing, using a
paper cone cut very fine. Arrange these small pieces on top and use a
wide band of pale pink ribbon for the sides.
PUNCH CREAM BUNS
For punch cream buns make up a fairly rich fermented dough, a
dough with about ~y% pound sugar, l / 2 pound butter and 4 or 5 eggs to
the quart, or if only a few are to be made for a start, make some of the
ordinary bun dough a little richer by the addition of a few eggs. Scale
3 ounces for two buns. Hand up round, pan and wash with strong egg
glaze, a mixture of yolks and eggs, and give good proof before baking.
When cool, split almost in two and dip in a punch previously prepared
from the following : 1 gallon of plain syrup, juice of 2 oranges and 1
lemon, rum flavoring. Bring the syrup to the boil, add the orange
and lemon juice and rum flavoring; allow to boil. The buns should
be just put in and taken out or they will absorb too much liquor. When
cool, open and fill with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with
vanilla. Sprinkle a little pistachio nut on the cream showing between
the bun. The punch will keep for some time and should be warmed
each day before using. Retail at 90 cents a dozen.
SAVARINS
For Savarins make up a dough as for punch cream buns, but use 6
or 7 eggs to the quart and make the dough soft enough to put through
a bag and tube. A genuine Savarin mixture is given below, which can
be used if preferred. They can be made any size, the molds are simi-
lar in shape to angel cake molds, with the exception of the tube
being wider, not so deep and closed at the top. When the dough is ripe,
fill the molds barely half way. Give good proof and bake in fairly hot
oven. When cool soak in punch as for punch buns, and fill with
whipped and sweetened cream, to which has been added the yolks of
a few eggs; sprinkle a little chopped pistachio nut on top. Large Sav-
arins can be made in the same way, but should be decorated with alm-
onds, cut lengthwise, and stuck into the side with a little fruit on top.
SAVARIN MIXTURE
The genuine French Savarin mixture is made from the following:
warm up a pint of milk, into this dissolve 1 ounce of yeast and make
into sponge with about 1 pound of flour. Allow to stand in a warm
place to get a start. Make up another dough with 2 pounds flour and
15 eggs; beat these together thoroughly. To this add 2 pounds butter
66 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
gradually, and finish making the dough with 15 eggs (making 30 in
all) and 1/2 pound sugar. When made, add the sponge and work
through. This dough can stand all night in a cool place, and should be
beaten back before being used up the next morning. It is only neces-
sary for the sponge to get a start, but plenty of work should be given
the dough at all stages of manufacturing.
BANANA TARTS
For banana tarts take a single layer cake, one scaled at 10 to 12
ounces from a nice layer cake mixture ; slice in two and cut some nice
firm bananas lengthwise and place on half the layer; use 2 bananas to
each layer. Brush over the bananas with a fairly heavy syrup and
spread over a thin layer of cream. Place the other half layer on top
and spread a little cream around the sides ; dip in roasted flaked alm-
onds. Put a good layer of cream on top and pipe on a neat border:
place half a banana, divided lengthwise, on top, with a cherry and
angelica. Brush over the banana with strong syrup. (This prevents
the banana from going dark.) They are a very classy article and retail
from 40 to 50 cents each.
CREAM BASKETS
Take some cup-shaped cakes and slice a little off the bottom to
make them stand level. Now take a pointed knife and cut a round out
of the top, digging down into the cake and saving the piece cut out for
the lid of the basket. Brush the sides with apricot jelly and roll in
roasted flaked almonds. With bag and plain tube pipe in a big bulb of
whipped cream, bring it well up and do not get too near the sides ; cut
the lid in half and place in position so that the center is lower than the
sides; sieve over lightly a little XXXX sugar and place in position a
handle cut from angelica. Retail at 90 cents per dozen.
PINEAPPLE TARTS
Proceed in the same way as for banana tarts, using canned chopped
pineapple, with the liquid drained therefrom, in the place of bananas.
Retail at 40 to 50 cents each.
MATINEE CREAMS
For matinee creams take some ordinary sized cream puffs, force
in some whipped cream, using a bag and plain tube. Frost the top with
maple fondant, then brush the sides with apricot jelly and press in
roasted stale macaroon crumbs. Fill a paper cone with maple fondant
and describe circles on the top, gradually working out from the cen-
ter. Before being allowed to dry sprinkle in the center a few coarsely
chopped pecan nuts which have been previously roasted in the oven.
If pecan nuts are not available use coarsely chopped walnuts. Retail
at 90 cents per dozen.
OPERA PASTRIES
This is a very delicate pastry and is a desirable addition to the
variety of goods prepared to serve in the coffee parlor or tea room.
Take a baked strip of pastry as used for Napoleons (about 4^/ 2 to 5
inches wide), spread over a thin layer of raspberry jam, and on the
CREAM GOODS 67
top of this place a strip of light sponge sheet the same width and length
of the pastry. Now fill the bag containing a large plain tube with
whipped cream and force out two or three strips on top of the sponge
sheet. Round this off nicely with a bowl knife, then cover the whole
with a thin layer of meringue. This can be done by using a bag with
a medium sized star tube and piping the lines close together running
from end to end. The quicker way of putting on the meringue is to
use the special tube as mentioned for laying out the sponge sheets; in
this way a ribbon of meringue is forced out sufficient to cover the strip
at one operation. Now transfer the finished strip to a flat piece of
wood about the same width and length. The idea is to get a little
brown color on the meringue by holding it near a strong flame. Where
there are open furnaces to the ovens, and coke or coal is used, this is
an easy matter; it is only necessary to hold in the heat two or three
seconds, as the meringue quickly colors. A heater such as candy
makers use is quite all right for this purpose in case it is not handy to
reach the furnace. Cut into sections 1^2 inches wide and retail at 60
cents to
