MODERN
PRACTICA;
BAKING
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
:opyright, 1921, by William H. Brooks.
MODERN
PRACTICAL BAKING
BY
WILLIAM H. BROOKS
PRICE $5.00
PALO ALTO
WILLIS L. HALL, PUBLISHER
1921
WILLIAM H. BROOKS
International Cake Expert, Author of the Pastry Chef and Contributor to the
Leading Trade Journals.
CONTENTS
Page
Chapter 1 Bread and Rolls 15
White Bread No. 1 White Bread No. 2 White Bread
No. 3 white Bread No. 4 White Bread No. 5 White
Bread No. 6 Pan Rolls Genuine Whole Wheat or Gra-
ham Bread Raisin Bread Fruit Nut Bread.
Chapter 2 Danish Pastry or Coffee Cake 21
Danish Pastry or Coffee Cake No. 1 Danish Pastry
or Coffee Cake No. 2 Rolled in Coffee Cake or Dan-
ish Pastry Sweet Dough or Coffee Cake Coffee
Goods and Sweet Dough Apple, Peach, Plum Cake,
Etc. Apricot Cake Walnut Rolls Butter Scotch
Buns Apricot Jelly Cheese Cake Streuhsel Buns
Nut Rolls Poppy Seed Strudel Almond Flaked Tea
Rings Filling for Almond Flaked Tea Rings Zwie-
back Fancy Zwieback Almond Zwieback.
Chapter 3 Doughnuts, Fried Cakes and Crullers 27
Special Doughnuts Doughnuts, Fried Cakes or Crul-
lers No. 1 Bag Doughnuts Fried Cakes or Crullers
No. 3 New York Formula for Machine Doughnuts No.
4 Doughnuts, Fried Cakes or Crullers No. 5 Dough-
nuts, Fried Cakes or Crullers No. 6.
Chapter 4 Brioche 29
Unfermented Brioche.
Chapter 5 Cakes for Everyday Sale 31
Tea Biscuits Jelly Roll No. 1 Jelly Roll No. 2
Lady Fingers No. 1 Lady Fingers No. 2 Angel Food
Crullers.
Chapter 6 Pies - 33
Pie Fillings Custard Filling for Custard Pies Lemon
Pie Filling Pumpkin Pie Filling Chocolate Cream
Pies Covering for Meringue for Lemon and Chocolate
Cream Pies Pumpkin Pie No. 2 Open Fruit Tarts.
Chapter 7 Cookies 35
Premier Cookies Queen Cookies Honey Cookies
Raisin Cookies Ginger Cookies White Sugar Cookies
Oatmeal Cookies Fancy Butter Cookies Scotch
Perkins Ginger Nuts Crisp Fancies Spice Drops
Lemon Cookies Cocoanut Cookies Angel Cookies
Jelly Rings Italian Biscuits Rice Wafers Fruit
Wafers.
Chapter 8 Puff Pastry - 41
Three-quarter Paste Rolled in Paste for Pies Savory
Pastries Vol-au-Vent Cheese Straws Meat Patties,
Etc. Sweet Pastries and Almond Tarts French
Straws Cherry and Jelly Tartlets Apple Puffs
Fruit Pastry Almond Pastries Diamond Chips
Spanish Puffs.
CONTEXTS
Page
Chapter 9 Chou Pastry 47
Chou Pastry No. 1 Chou Pastry No. 2 Chou Pastry
No. 3 Rich Cream Filling for Eclairs, Etc. Chou a la
Creme Pralinee Cream Buns French Crullers Fe-
dora Pastries Bordeaux Pastries Crescents Lemon
Cream Buns Gateau St. Honore Bouchees, Etc.
Chapter 10 Meringue Goods 53
Meringue Shells Meringue Mushrooms Maraschino
Meringues Maraschino Birds Coffee Meringue Co-
coanut Meringue Meringue Kisses Meringue Pas-
tries Cherry Meringue.
Chapter 11 High Grade Layer Cakes 57
Almond Layers Chocolate Layers Ginger Layers
Yellow Layers Devil's Food White Layers Fruit
Layers Butter Sponge Layers Chocolate Walnut
Layers Lemon Layers Chocolate Ginger Layers
Pecan Layers Cherry Layers Punch Layers
Lady Baltimore Layers Premier Layers Orange Co-
coanut Cakes Banana Tarts Pineapple Snow Cake.
Chapter 12 Cream Goods 63
Sponge Casing for Charlotte Russe Plain Whipped
Cream Charlotte Russe Double Charlottes Char-
lottes a la Cardinal Large Charlottes Punch Cream
Buns Savarins Savarin Mixture Banana Tarts
Cream Baskets Pineapple Tarts Matinee Creams
Opera Pastries Boston Cream Pies Snowballs
Orange Creams Whipped Cream Torte Hazelnut
Cream Torte Pastry Charlottes.
Chapter 13 Loaf Cakes - 69
Van Dusen Cakes White Van Dusen Dorothy Cakes
Yellow Florence Cakes Dundee Cakes English Ma-
deira Cakes Ideal Ginger Cakes Small Pound Cakes
Vanilla Fig Cake Orient Cake Lemon Sandwich
Loaf Sponge.
Chapter 14 Pound Cake - T.\
Plain Pound Cake Genoa Cake Cherry Genoa Cake
Ginger Pound Cake Caraway Seed Pound Cake
Rich Fruit Pound Cake Rice Pound Cake (Medium
Priced) Light Pound Cake White Pound Cake Mar-
ble Pound Cake Fleur de Lys Cake Small Pound
Cakes.
Chapter 15 French Pastries 79
Petits Choux Light Cake Base Custard Cream Ap-
ple Cream Butter Cream.
Chapter 16 Individual Fancy Cakes 83
Desmondonas Orange Crescents Cream Pyramids
Apricotines Vanilla Pastries Timbre Cakes Fruit
Pyramids Chocolate Bars Checkers Fedora Cakes
Strawberry Petits Fours Strawberry Mascots Mocha
Slices Chocolate Slices Cocoanut Pyramids Apples
and Pears Petits Beurres Chocolate Almond Creams
Orange Filling Maraschino Fingers Rose Tartlets
Viennese Pastries Kopje Tartlets Strawberry But-
ter Cakes Neapolitan Creams Pineapple Creams
Crumb Tartlets.
CONTEXTS
Page
Chapter 17 Almond Goods 97
Petits Fours Walnut Pyramids Chocolate Maca-
roons Hazelnut Macaroons Congress Macaroons
Dutch Macaroons Plain Macaroons Royal Almond
Macaroons Chocolate Almond Bars Cinnamon
Almond Sticks Almond Batons Almond Boats Mac-
aroon Shortbread Almond Tarts Almond Mascots
Lorange Pistachio Maraschino Bateaux Maraschino
Petits Fours Walnut Biscuits Pistachio Biscuits
Chemin de Fer Bars Raspberry Almond Cuts Gau-
fres Biscuits Picnola Macaroons.
Chapter 18 Langues des Chats 109
Langues des Chats (Cats' Tongues) Gateau a la Su
preme.
Chapter 19 Bonnes Bouchees 111
Hazelnut Bouchees Almond Bouchees Bouchees
with Whipped Cream Filling Vanilla Cream Bouchees
Chapter 20 Dubosh Torte - - - - - 113
Dubosh Torte No. 1 Dubosh Torte No. 2 Hazelnut
Slices.
Chapter 21 Small Cakes to Retail at 40c to $2 a Pound 115
Lemon Ice Biscuits Orange Ice Biscuits Fleur de
Orange Biscuits Pommes de Terre Inverness But-
tons Lemon Wafers Walnut Molasses Wafers Pa-
risian Puffs Hermits Cocoanut and Almond Drops
Vanilla Wafers.
Chapter 22 Wedding Cakes - 119
White Cake No. 1 White Cake No. 2 English Wed-
ding Cake Individual Wedding Cakes.
Chapter 23 English Plum Pudding - 127
Plum Pudding No. 1 Plum Pudding No. 2 Mince-
meat.
Chapter 24 Layer Cake Fillings - 129
Punch Filling Apricot, Raspberry and Orange Filling
Marshmallow Filling Cherry Filling Special Lem-
on Fillings for Lemon Layers Chocolate Walnut Fill-
ing Apple Filling Walnut Filling.
Chapter 25 Icings 131
Fondant and Its Uses Hot Water Icing Royal Icing.
Chapter 26 Butter Creams - 133
Butter Cream No. 1 Butter Cream No. 2 Butter
Cream No. 3.
Chapter 27 Fig Products - 135
Fig Bread Whole Wheat Fig Bread Fig Bars Oat-
meal Fig Cookies Chocolate Fig Layer Cake Fig
Bran Cookies Molasses Fig Drops Fig Boston
Brown Bread.
PREFACE
It is with considerable pleasure that I present this revised peace-
lime edition of Modern Practical Baking and sincerely hope that it will
be as well received as were the preceding editions of this work. Since
the last edition was published a vast change has taken place in the
retail bakery. Modern manufacturing and merchandising methods
have been applied in the form of traveling reel ovens and spotless
stores and this old and honorable trade has been raised to a position of
importance undreamed of a few years ago. In developing it has at-
tracted the best type of merchant, who in turn has applied more sys-
tematic methods than those that have prevailed hitherto. In line with
this development the so-called quality standards have been raised and
new ideas and formulas are now in use.
In this book particular attention has been paid to formulas appli-
cable to this new development in our industry and this revised edition
contains formulas that have made many of these stores justly famous.
French pastry stores have gained in popularity in recent years and
Danish pastry is almost as equally well known. Both branches have
been fully covered in this book.
Another new departure is the inclusion of several chapters on
bread and doughnuts. The bread formulas are on a par with the other
formulas contained in this book as to quality. The doughnut formulas
are also the best of their kind. As in previous editions, a free service
is offered any purchaser of this book in so far as the adjustment of any
formula is required to conform to local climatic conditions, or raw
materials.
WILLIAM H. BROOKS.
CHAPTER 1
BREAD AND ROLLS
It is not my intention to deal with the technical phases of the fol-
lowing formulas, but to offer to the trade a number of successful,
thoroughly tested and well balanced formulas which have won and
held trade in hundreds of successful retail stores throughout the coun-
try. It has always been my contention that the proper place for testing-
flour and other raw materials is in a properly equipped laboratory
where every facility is available for securing accurate results. It
entails too much labor on the part of the retail baker to attempt this
work in addition to operating his business. Laboratory facilities for
the testing of flour are available in any city of importance, where tests
are made at a very moderate charge. Various yeast concerns, trade
journals, etc., also offer service in this respect, so why not concentrate
on the manufacturing and merchandising of the baked goods rather
than upon the technical phase of the business? However, usually the
practical baker is able to determine to his own satisfaction by "feel-
ing" the flour its tendency to hardness or softness as the case may be,
sufficiently well in any case to govern his decision as to its suitability
for the various types of goods. This, in addition to a practical baking
test, which after all is the test most worth while, should be sufficient
evidence to determine its value in his shop. The proper thing for any
retail baker to do is to purchase a small quantity of flour of any brand
that is new to his shop and subject it to a careful baking test before
purchasing in quantities. Any mill with confidence in its product will
usually agree to shipments of one or two barrels, for the purpose of
determining its value. If satisfied stick to this brand, provided the
quality is maintained. It is well to remember that the baker ' is > of ten
tempted to change his flour and that first order prices and prices foE
subsequent orders are not always consistent, discounting the fact that
meanwhile prices may have been raised or lowered, as the ease may be-
Quality and service generally go together and are not usually secured
at the lowest price.
Results I favor have always been obtained through the use of
hard spring wheat flour in the proportion of 60 per cent to 40 per cent
of rich soft winter wheat. In simple terms, the hard wheat for volume
and the soft winter for color and flavor and to "break" the toughness
of crumb which results from the use of hard wheat flour.
Technically, or from the bakery chemist's findings with whose
viewpoint I am very familiar, some of my formulas may be scientifi-
cally wrong in some small particular, but I have always sought results
and in seeking have not traveled the well beaten path familiar to so
many, and I am sure that one or more of the many formulas submitted
16 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
will fit your shop and guarantee the results which good merchandise
most surely brings.
The following formula is given first place, as the use of this form-
ula in one of a number of retail stores I operated some years ago re-
sulted in the most phenomenal sales of bread I have ever seen during
my experience in the trade.
WHITE BREAD No. 1
Straight Dough 140 pounds hard wheat flour, 56 pounds soft
wheat flour, 10 pounds mashed potatoes, 2y 2 pounds malt extract, 4
pounds salt, 3*4 pounds yeast, 4 pounds sugar, 7 pounds pure lard. 6
gallons fresh whole milk, 62 pounds water (7% gallons). Temperature
of water 78 degrees ; shop temperature 80 degrees.
Method Place milk, water and mashed potatoes in machine, re-
serving about 10 pounds of water to be divided between two pails for
dissolving salt and yeast. Add salt solution and sugar, mix thoroughly
with flour. Run machine for two minutes. Add malt and yeast. Run
for five minutes more, then add shortening. Complete mixing.
Total time of the mixing approximating eighteen minutes. Time first
punch, 214 hours; time second punch, 30 minutes; 5 minutes and take
to the bench. Bake in even temperature 425 to 450 degrees. On no
account bake in too hot an oven.
WHITE BREAD No. 2
140 pounds hard wheat flour, 56 pounds soft wheat flour, 10
pounds condensed milk (sweetened), 4 pounds salt, 3*4 pounds yeast.
2*4 pounds malt extract, 2 pounds sugar, 7 pounds pure lard, 108
pounds water.
Method As for white bread No. 1.
WHITE BREAD No. 3
140 pounds hard wheat flour, 56 pounds soft wheat flour, 2y 4
pounds buttermilk powder, 3% pounds salt, 1 pound malt extract, 5
pounds sugar, 6 pounds lard, 2y 2 pounds yeast, 116 pounds water.
Method Place salt, water, sugar and buttermilk in mixer. Place
yeast in pail with 10 pounds of water reserved for same and mix
thoroughly. Start mixer and add flour. When operating 2 minutes
add malt and yeast. Run 5 minutes, then add shortening. Mixing time
approximately 18 minutes. Time first punch 2y 2 hours (approxi-
mately) ; time second punch 1 hour; 5 minutes then take to bench.
WHITE BRE.VD No. 4
Special Home-made Loaf 140 pounds hard wheat flour, 56 pounds
soft wheat flour, 8 pounds sugar, 8 pounds pure lard, 3 l / 2 pounds yeast,
y 2 pounds salt, 116 pounds water. Temperature of shop 80 degrees.
Temperature of water 78 degrees.
Method Place water in machine, add sugar and salt, then flour.
Run mixing for 2 minutes, add yeast thoroughly dissolved in small
amount of water. Lastly add shortening 3 minutes before completion
of mixing. Run mixer 18 minutes from start to finish. Time first
punch, 2 hours ; time second punch, 35 minutes ; 15 minutes then take
to bench.
BREAD AND ROLLS 17
WHITE BREAD No. 5
Fast Dough Flour, one-half hard winter wheat and one-half hard
spring wheat, 100 pounds; water, 54 pounds (approximately) ; salt, 1%
pounds ; yeast, 3 pounds ; sugar, 2 pounds ; malt extract, 1 pound ; milk
(condensed) 4 pounds; shortening, 3 pounds. Temperature when leav-
ing mixer, 78 degrees F.
Fermentation First rising, 40 minutes ; second rising, 20 minutes ;
to the bench in 10 minutes. The temperature of the proof box 85 de-
grees F. The temperature of the oven should be approximately 500
degrees F. You will get better results by baking this bread in a
hot oven. Give the loaves a short proof in the pans. You will be able
to get just as much volume if you depend upon the spring in the oven.
By getting your volume in the oven you will get a loaf of bread having
a good colored crust, velvet texture and a good colored crumb.
WHITE BREAD No. 6
Special Dough for Snowflake Biscuits and any form of Pan Rolls
100 pounds spring wheat high patent flour, 1 pound malt extract, 2*4
pounds salt, 4 pounds yeast, 3 pounds condensed milk, 10 pounds pure
lard, 2!/2 pounds potato flour or mashed potatoes, 63 pounds water.
Temperature of room, 80 degrees. Temperature of water, 80 degrees.
Allow to come up full first time. Well up second time. Ten minutes
and take to bench. Work off fast on the bench.
This will give a full-flavored, very light roll, and will stand a
thorough baking in the oven. It is particularly suitable for use with
small fluted open pans for baking in revolving oven, as it replaces to
a great extent the hard German or French roll of the hearth type oven.
PAN ROLLS
Pan rolls or so-called yeast raised biscuits or biscuit bread, cres-
cents, etc., in fact, any form of roll with a moderately hard crust can
be made from the foregoing formulas. In the case of crescents or twists
it is necessary to wash them before baking with a "glaze" made of eggs
and milk. A corn starch glaze is also very effective, and is made as
follows: 2 ounces corn starch, 1 quart water, 14 ounce salt. Bring to
a boil. Wash over rolls one minute before taking from oven.
A sponge dough is more suitable for Parker House rolls, although
a very delicious roll can be produced by adding 1 egg and 2 ounces of
additional shortening to each 10 pounds of dough of any of the fore-
going bread formulas.
GENUINE WHOLE WHEAT OR GRAHAM BREAD
The manufacture and sale of genuine whole wheat bread presents
wonderful possibilities to the man capable of realizing the value of
propaganda that has been distributed through such well-known advo-
cates of its use as Dr. Wiley and others. Millers look upon it with
disfavor as its increased use would eliminate the sale of by-products,
such as bran and middlings, for which they usually find a ready and
profitable market. Possibly there is not a single mill that has suffi-
cient demand or has attempted to create big enough demand to justify
it in arranging its machines for manufacture on a large scale. Never-
18 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
theless, the demand is always present, as was amply demonstrated by
me some years ago when I ran a mill exclusively on a flour of this type
and disposed of it through the medium of stores I was operating at that
time.
Take all Dakota, Kansas, or any hard wheat flour. The whole of
the wheat berry is milled as for ordinary flour. After the bran separa-
tion has been made this is run through the rollers several times so that
it is considerably finer than usual. The glutenous qualities of the hard
wheat flour have sufficient "carrying" power to offset the non-gluten-
ous qualities of the bran and "middlings," the resultant loaf having
a fair volume and texture. The re-milling of the bran flakes also re-
lieves the extremely porous nature which is so prevalent in the aver-
age Graham loaf or whole wheat loaf of bread.
The trouble in the past has been as above stated that the millers
have made no attempt to cater to this business. The average Graham
flour is the "offal bin" of the mill and contains too much low grade
flour in the milling of the high patents to ever permit its use as a
straight flour. Therefore the baker has been compelled to blend it
with hard wheat flours, "dope" it with molasses and other agents until
it resembles anything but a whole wheat flour and cannot be conscien-
tiously sold as such. Instead of "doping" it with molasses an ideal
flour should contain the elements in a pure form to obtain the golden
brown crumb so much desired. For instance, 75 per cent Dakota
wheat, 25 per cent Northern Turkey red wheat.
If the baker cannot induce his miller to furnish a flour of this
type, wheats of this kind are available and with the aid of an inex-
pensive mill (I think this costs about $150 to $200 at the present time)
he can mill his own flour very inexpensively and have all the advan-
tages of exclusiveness of product.
An ideal whole wheat bread is made as follows : 100 pounds whole
wheat flour, 2 pounds salt, 11/2 pounds malt extract, 3 pounds brown
sugar, l 1 /^ pounds yeast, 56 pounds water. Temperature of room, 80
degrees ; temperature of water, 78 degrees.
Time for mixins 1 of dough to first punch, approximately 2 hours.
Allow to stand 30 minutes and take to bench.
MaVe up Bake in covered sandwich pans, or special fluted pans
to give it close grain. Give medium short proof before baking.
Fig, whole wheat, bran and raisin whole wheat bread can be made
by adding 30 to 40 pounds of figs and raisins to the above. Blended
figs and raisins are a nice combination.
RAISIN BREAD
A special raisin bread (exceptionally fine), n made as follows:
100 pounds hard wheat flour, 10 pounds condensed milk, 7 pounds pure
lard, 5 pounds sugar, 50 pounds Sun-Made seeded raisins (medium
?i7e), 1/3 ounce almond flavoring extract, I 1 /? pounds salt, 55 pounds
water, 3 pounds yeast. Temperature of room, 80 degrees ; temperature
of water, 90 degrees.
Method Separate the raisins by sprinkling with about 1 quart of
warm water and allowing to stand over night, or do this a few hours
previous to mixing the dough. This is best accomplished by placing
the raisins in a wooden tub, sprinkling with water, then turning over
BREAD AND ROLLS 1
occasionally with a large wooden spatula. A small proportion of small,
seedless raisins in place of the seeded raisins is sometimes desirable,
but do not overlook the fact that the large raisins possess the flavor
desired and are usually much cheaper. Place water, condensed milk,
flavoring extract, salt and sugar in the machine. Add flour and start
to mix. After two minutes add yeast dissolved in water. About two or
three minutes b< fore completion of mixing add melted lard and raisins.
Thoroughly incorporate the raisins without over-mixing, and thereby
breaking up the raisins unnecessarily. The dough should be on the
soft side so that the raisins are not broken. It should also be kept
warm, as the dough will otherwise stiffen up considerably, and if cool,
it will retard fermentation to a great extent on account of the quantity
of raisins in the mix. Keep the dough on the young side.
Once up ' ' full ' ' is sufficient, then 25 to 30 minutes and then to the
bench. Scale into pieces 14 to 20 ounces (no larger) and use long,
narrow pans. Give medium proof and bake in oven 400 to 425 degrees.
FRUIT NUT BREAD
Take one-half of the preceding raisin bread formula. At the first
knockdown incorporate 10 pounds whole almonds, 3 pounds walnuts,
2 pounds orange peel, 1 ounce nutme 01 .
Allow to prove in the trough 35 to 40 minutes, then scale into
pieces 2~y 2 pounds in weight when put on the bench allow to prove, then
place in l l / 2 pound sandwich bread pans. Give good proof and bake in
oven about 375 degrees. If baked in revolving oven, see that pans are
protected on bottom, and if on shelf oven double pan. This makes a
very delicious nut loaf.
Coffee Wreath Poppy Seed Strudel
Apple Slices
CHAPTER 2.
DANISH PASTRY AND COFFEE CAKE
A large variety of coffee cakes are prepared from this dough.
Pretzels, butter horns, snails, wreath cakes, and all the various shapes
usually made from French pastry dough can be applied to coffee cake
of this class. Quite a good deal of the sale success depends upon the
various fillings used. These should be tasty and used in sufficient
quantity so that the flavor permeates all of the dough.
It is very essential that the dough should be kept as cool as pos-
sible after the shortening has been rolled in, so that the layers of
dough are separated by very thin layers of shortening. If the dough
is at all warm, it has a tendency to oil the dough and the efficiency of
the shortening as a dividing and raising medium is partially destroyed.
Nuts of various kinds used in fairly liberal proportions add to the
attractiveness of this style of coffee cake. Cream fillings can also be
used to advantage both as a filler and for decorative purposes.
This dough is improved by using additional shortening, but should
not exceed 2^ pounds to the one quart of liquid.
Almond paste used in the proportion of one-half pound to the
quart of liquid improves the flavoring and eating qualities of this cof-
fee cake. Almond paste fillings are also very popular, and can be
made of any richness desired, by using almond paste and sugar as a
base and w r orking in cake or cookie crumbs, which will bring it down
to any degree of quality.
A moderately rich filling would be composed of the following: 6
pounds cake crumbs, 1 pound almond paste, sugar to taste, 1 pound
orange and lemon peel chopped very fine, 1 pound chopped peanuts,
the grating of six lemons, 1 ounce cinnamon, ^ ounce allspice, 1 ounce
salt.
This formula can be used as the base for a number of fillings.
DANISH PASTRY OR COFFEE CAKE No. 1
One quart milk (ice cold), 8 ounces yeast, 8 ounces sugar, 4 eggs.
Sufficient strong flour to make a fairly free dough.
Method Roll this out as for French pastry, spread over two-
thirds surface 1 pound of firm shortening and 1 pound butter, roll out
twice, allow to rest for about 15 minutes then roll out twice more, cut-
ting into various coffee cake forms and using the following fillings :
Vanilla Cream 1 quart milk, 5 eggs, 8 ounces sugar, 4 ounces
flour, vanilla flavoring. This is a cooked cream. The milk is first
placed on the stove and brought to a boil then balance of ingredients
mixed together and stirred in the milk. Stir over the stove until it
thickens.
Almond Masse 1 pound almond paste, l 1 /^ pounds sugar. Suffi-
cient eggs to make it of a consistency so it will spread very easily.
22 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
Butter Masse 1 pound butter, 1 pound sugar rubbed to a light
cream.
Apricot Jelly 1 can apricots (approximately 6 pounds), rub
through a fine sieve. Cook with 6 pounds sugar allowing five min-
utes from time it starts to boil.
These fillings can be reduced in quality by adding sugar syrup and
cake crumbs. Various other flavors can be worked out by blending
the various fillings. This is a matter for the bakery operator to
determine.
DANISH PASTRY OR COFFEE CAKE No. 2
Special Rolled In Coffee Cake 1 quart eggs, 2 pounds sugar, 2
pounds shortening, 3 ounces salt, 5 ounces yeast, 2 quarts milk, 2 quarts
water, Vi ounce mace, strong flour, lemon and orange flavoring.
This is a straight dough. The approximate time up to first punch
will be 2y 2 to 3 hours. Knock down, roll out on bench and roll in 4
ounces of butter to the pound of dough. I would advise the use of half
oleomargarine and half butter. These should be mixed together thor-
oughly before this is rolled into the dough.
This can be used as a base for filled coffee cake of all kinds. Also
can be used for tea rings and other coffee cake of this type. Based on
present prices this should retail at not less than 50 cents per pound.
One quart milk and water, 2 eggs. 8 ounces sugar, 14 ounce salt, 4
ounces yeast, 2 ounces shortening, little mace and lemon oil, 75 per cent
hard wheat flour, 25 per cent soft wheat flour.
This dough is mixed similarly to first coffee cake dough. Allow
this dough to rise until very full, then knock down, allow to come up
half way the second time. Now roll the mass of dough to one-half inch
in thickness on the bench. Spread over two-thirds of the surface l 1 /^
pounds of very firm shortening, double and roll as is usually done with
French pastry. Keep in cool place for 15 minutes, then give two or
three additional rollings.
SWEET DOUGH OR COFFEE CAKE
Five quarts milk, 5 quarts water, 5% pounds sugar, 7 pounds short-
ening (2 pounds butter, 5 pounds Selex shortening), 1 pound yeast.
5 ounces salt, egg coloring, flavoring, mace and lemon, 10 eggs.
Sponge Dough System Method Heat 8 quarts of milk and water
to a temperature of 90 degrees ; dissolve the yeast in lukewarm water ;
make a thick sponge batter using about 25 pounds of strong flour. This
should be about the consistency of a soft dough. Allow this to rise and
drop about one-fourth inch, then mix in the balance of the ingredients.
Allow this dough to come up once very full, the second time up about
three-fourths, and the third time about 15 to 20 minutes; then divide
into sections for the various varieties of coffee cake.
The selling price for this coffee cake per pound, plus the fillings,
should average 35 to 40 cents per pound, with 35 cents as the minimum
selling price per pound. The price should be set to conform to the
scale weight in dough and not baked weight.
DANISH PASTRY 23
COFFEE CAKE Goons AND SWEET DOUGH
Coffee Cake for General Purposes This dough can be used as a
base for snails, wreath cakes, plain buns, finger rolls, and a general
line of coffee cake.
For a straight dough coffee cake, weigh down the following : 1
quart of milk and water heated to 90 degrees, 8 ounces sugar, 12 ounces
shortening. 2y 2 ounces yeast, 2 eggs, y ounce salt, little mace and
lemon oil, strong flour, make a fairly soft dough.
Quantities of coffee cake dough are usually referred to and meas-
ured by the quart of liquid, therefore in ordering any quantity of cof-
fee cake, orders are placed for one, two or three, or as many quarts as
required.
When mixing large quantities of coffee cake reduce the amount
of yeast per quart. Thus a 12 quart batch would take 12 ounces to 16
ounces to properly ferment within a reasonable time.
General method for preparing coffee cake dough as follows : Short-
ening and sugar are rubbed to a light cream, the spices added, then
the yeast is dissolved and added to the liquid ; flour and salt added, and
lastly creamed shortening and sugar. This is allowed to raise to full
proof, similar to the proof given a bread dough, then knocked down and
allowed to prove a second time. This dough is usually taken on the
third time up and worked into the desired shapes.
APPLE, PEACH, PLUM, CAKE, ETC.
For individual apple cake, line some layer cake pans with the sweet
dough. Arrange some apples divided into eight pieces on top of the
dough. Prove a little, then sprinkle over a little cinnamon sugar.
Bake with a round of stiff paper, cut to the size of the pan, on top.
This should be greased slightly. When baked let stand with the paper
cover over a few minutes before removing. Brush over while warm
with hot apricot jelly. For large apple cake proceed in the same way
as for the individual size. For peach, plum, etc., line the pans as for
apple cake and arrange the fruit as neatly as possible. For peach cake
cut the peaches into quarters and arrange them into a gradually nar-
rowing circle to the center. Prove and bake. Wash with hot apricot
jelly when coming from oven. Proceed in the same way with the plums.
APRICOT CAKE
For apricot cake pin out a piece of plain coffee cake dough the
length and width of a baking sheet and x /2 inch thick. Place this on a
greased baking sheet. Give about half proof, then make some impres-
sions in the dough with the top of a tea biscuit cutter an equal distance
apart. Place half a preserved apricot within each impression and gran-
ulated sugar over the whole. Finish proving and bake. Cut in pieces
to retail at 30 cents each.
WALNUT ROLLS
For walnut rolls pin out a piece of dough as for snails, brush over
some warm butter and sprinkle over pretty thickly a mixture composed
of crushed walnuts and powdered sugar in equal proportions. Roll up
and make the closing hold with a little egg wash. Cut into pieces to
weigh 2 l /2 ounces each and place 7 in a round pan which has been heav-
24 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
ily greased and then well dusted with brown sugar. Prove and bake.
Turn upside down as they come from the oven. Retail at 30 to 40 cents
the ring, according to the locality.
BUTTER SCOTCH BUNS
A very delicious coffee cake is made by rolling a piece of dough
to ^4 inch in thickness. Cream together 3 pounds of brown sugar. 1
pound of shortening, and 1 pound of butter to a very light cream.
Spread this thinly over the whole sheet of dough and sprinkle over
either roasted chopped nuts or chopped walnuts. Roll up the dough
as for snails, and close the dough by washing the end with egg wash.
Grease some round pans rather heavily with butter, and shortening, in
equal proportions, and dust out with sifted brown sugar. Cut out in
sections as for snails and place with the cut end to the pan and 6 or 7
in each pan. Prove until almost double in size, then bake on flat bak-
ing sheet in moderate oven. Turn out of the pans while still hot. The
combination of shortening and sugar will give these buns a very nice
glaze, in fact, a candy is formed in the oven.
APRICOT JELLY
To prepare the jelly for brushing over apple cake, etc., weigh down
the following : 10 pounds apricots, strain these through a coarse sieve,
place in a copper kettle and to this add 10 pounds granulated sugar.
Bring to a boil and allow to boil steadily for 25 minutes.
CHEESE CAKE
Line some layer cake pans with deep sides with sweet dough. Prove
for 15 to 20 minutes, then trim the edges and prepare the following : 4
pounds sugar, 2 l /2 pounds shortening (part butter), 7 ounces corn
starch, juice and grating of 7 lemons, 24 eggs and 8 pounds cheese.
Rub the shortening and sugar to a light cream, beat up the eggs and
add in three separate quantities, beat well after each addition, add the
corn starch, then the juice and grating of lemons, lastly cheese. Fill
the pans almost level, sprinkle over a few currants, then a dust of cin-
namon. Bake in medium oven.
CHEESE FOR CHEESE CAKE
The cheese is prepared by allowing milk to get sour and lumpy in
the can. This requires at least 3 to 4 days in the winter time, but in
real hot weather 1 or 2 days will do the trick. Pour this into a clean
flour sack and hang up for 2 or 3 days, then press through a fine sieve
before using.
STREUHSEL BUNS
Break off pieces of dough to scale 10 to the pound. Roll up round,
then oval in shape. Pin out to l / inch in thickness and place to touch
on a baking sheet. Wash with eggs and prove. Before baking sprin-
kle over thickly a mixture composed of the following 1 pound short-
ening (part butter), 1 pound sugar, a little vanilla and cinnamon. 2
eggs, 2 pounds flour. Cream together the shortening and sugar, add
the eggs and flavoring. Rub in flour lightly. Bake in moderate oven.
For large Streuhsel cake weigh off into piece's scaling at 12 ounces.
DANISH PASTRY 25
Pin out to 1/2 inch in thickness and proceed in the same way as for
Streuhsel buns.
NUT ROLLS
Pin out a piece of dough as for snails, wash with butter and sprin-
kle over a little cinnamon sugar, chopped almonds and raisins, fold
the two ends into the center, wash with butter and lap one end over.
This should leave a piece of dough 6 inches wide. Cut into pieces 1/2
inch wide. Give a little twist as for coffee rings and place together on
the pan. Wash with egg, prove and before baking sprinkle over a few
chopped almonds. Wash with water icing when partly cool.
POPPY SEED STRUDEL
Pin out a piece of dough oblong shape and spread over evenly a
mixture composed of the following: 1 pound almond paste, % pound
crumbs, 1^ pounds poppy seed (ground), sufficient eggs to make into
a paste that will spread easily. Roll up, wash the end with egg to make
the closing hold. Flatten out a little and cut into strips the length of
a baking sheet. Wash with egg wash, prove and bake. When baked
wash with water icing and cut slantwise into portions 1^2 inches wide.
COFFEE AND TEA RINGS ROLLED IN BUTTER
For bakers who cater to a high class trade and are looking for
something exceptionally good along these lines, would recommend the
following as likely to fill the bill. Very few bakers are familiar with
rich butter doughs, but when once the proper handling of these doughs
is mastered there is nothing in the coffee cake line to equal them for
quality. The doughs for this purpose are usually made rich with eggs
and sugar in the first place. Then after proving a little the butter is
rolled in as for pastry. In summer time in a rich dough where as high
as 4 pounds of butter to 8 pounds of dough is used it is necessary to
keep in the icebox or over ice until working off. Three pastry turns
are sufficient for a rich dough with an interval of half an hour between
turns. This is the usual way of running all rich butter doughs. Rich
almond paste fillings are used for making the higher priced coffee
rings, one or two of which are given. For a coffee ring to sell at 25
and 30 cents each, prepare a dough from the following : 15 quarts milk,
4 quarts eggs, 9 pounds sugar, 6 pounds butter and lard, 6 ounces salt,
3 pounds yeast (young dough) flour, knock down in 2 hours, then take
in 15 minutes. To every 20 pounds of dough roll in 2 l /2 pounds butter,
give one pastry turn and work off quickly in the usual way.
For higher priced rings roll in a little more buttei and sprinkle
over a few chopped almonds, before baking. Wash with water icing
when partly cool.
ALMOND FLAKED TEA RINGS
One quart milk, !/2 pound sugar, 1 quart eggs, 5 ounces yeast, lit-
tle salt, dough up soft. Roll in 3 pounds butter to 9 pounds dough.
Scale dough 1 pound 2 ounces each piece and 14 ounces of filling.
FILLING FOR ALMOND FLAKED TEA RINGS
One pound sugar, 1 pound almond paste, 5 eggs, 1V2 pounds raisins.
Rub the almond paste smooth with the eggs, add the sugar, then the
26 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
raisins. Pin out the dough and cut into oblong shaped strips. Take a
piece of the filling (14 ounces) and roll into a long strip and place down
the center. Wash one end of the dough with egg wash and roll up to
completely envelop the filling. Prove and sprinkle over a few chopped
almonds. Bake and when partly cool, frost with white icing.
ZWIEBACK
Roll out some sweet dough, French bread style, but a little thicker,
prove and bake. When a day old cut into slices % inch thick, place
together on a baking sheet and toast in a brisk oven.
FANCY ZWIEBACK
Roll up the sweet dough into small rolls 3 inches long, and 1 inch
wide, place in rows and close together on a baking sheet. Prove and
bake. When a day old cut into slices, dip lightly into a mixture of
half egg and milk, then into Streuhsel crumbs or flaked almonds.
ALMOND ZWIEBACK
Before toasting spread the slices with a mixture prepared from the
following: y 2 pound almond paste, % pound sugar, 6 or 7 whites of
eggs. Rub all together well, spread thinly on toast.
CHAPTER 3.
DOUGHNUTS, FRIED CAKES OR CRULLERS
The world war forever fixed the place of doughnuts, but it remains
for the baker to see that their present popularity is never in jeopardy.
An old industry was given a new lease of life when our boys returned
from ' ' over there ' ' and the advertising that this popular and distinctly
American confection has received since that time has been phenomenal.
So much so that I feel justified in devoting several pages of this book
to exclusive formulas that have won a national reputation for quality.
Each one of the following formulas is a winner, and the quality may
be determined in the order in which the formulas follow.
SPECIAL DOUGHNUTS
These doughnuts should be dusted with powdered sugar after they
are cooled, with which has been sifted a little cinnamon. The formula
is as follows: 6 pounds sugar, 5 ounces butter, 1 quart egg yolks
(either fresh or frozen), 4 quarts whole milk, 17 pounds soft winter
wheat flour, 12 ounces baking powder, 3 ounces salt, 2 ounces nutmeg,
1 tablespoon vanilla, 1 tablespoon lemon.
Fry in grease or oil with butter oil flavoring added. These dough-
nuts are very high grade and can be sold in boxes of one-half dozen
or dozen. A very neat way of packing is to place same in a cardboard
box lined with glassine paper. These doughnuts retail anything from
35 cents to 45 cents per dozen and sometimes higher than that.
DOUGHNUTS, FRIED CAKES OR CRULLERS, No. 2
Two pounds granulated sugar, 2 pounds powdered sugar, 2 pounds
butter, 1 quart egg yolks, 2% quarts milk, 13 pounds cake flour, 8
ounces baking powder, juice and gratings of 3 lemons, y ounce mace,
V"2 ounce salt.
BAG DOUGHNUTS, FRIED CAKES OR CRULLERS, No. 3
Five pounds 10 ounces sugar, % pounds butter, 16 pounds flour, 2
ounces soda, 4 ounces cream of tartar, iy 2 quarts eggs, 2 ounces salt, 1
ounce mace, vanilla, 4!/2 quarts milk.
NEW YORK FORMULA FOR MACHINE DOUGHNUTS, No. 4
Six pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 2 quarts eggs, 5 ounces cream of
tartar, 2y 2 ounces soda, 16 pounds flour, 2 ounces salt, 1 ounce nutmeg,
vanilla flavoring, 4 quarts milk. Produces 45 dozen.
DOUGHNUTS, FRIED CAKES OR CRULLERS, No. 5
Fifteen pounds flour, 32 eggs, 5 quarts milk, 1 ounce mixed spices,
nutmeg and mace, 4 ounces cream of tartar or cream of tartar substi-
28
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
tute, 1 pound lard or other shortening (preferably a vegetable shorten-
ening), 2 ounces bicarbonate of soda, 6 pounds sugar, 1^ ounces salt.
Produces about 600 doughnuts.
DOUGHNUTS, FRIED CAKES OR CRULLERS
A cruller mixture containing sponge may be made from the fol-
lowing formula
Sponge Hard wheat flour, 10 pounds ; water, 6 pounds ; yeast, 4
ounces. Mix the same as you mix a sponge for bread dough. This
sponge will be ready when it begins to recede, about 2y 2 hours.
Cruller Formula Sugar, 1 pound ; shortening, 4 ounces ; eggs, 1 ;
milk, 1 quart; flour, 3% to 4 pounds; mace, y ounce: salt. !/2 ounce;
vanilla flavor, baking powder, l 1 /^ ounces.
Method Rub the sugar, shortening, eggs and salt to a creamy con-
sistency. Add the milk and slightly break up l 1 /^ pounds to 2 pounds
of the sponge. Next add the flour and mix to a smooth cruller dough.
The cruller should be submerged in the grease during the entire fry-
ing. The temperature of the grease should be 365 to 370 degrees.
BRIOCHE BREAD
CHAPTER 4.
BRIOCHE
This is a fancy fermented cake very popular in France and which
is rapidly gaining favor in this country. It should be a popular addi-
tion to the line of goods of any high grade store, especially those run-
ning a tea room or coffee parlor as a side line. In Europe it is usually
eaten with wine or coffee, made in small or oval finger shapes, and
sandwiched together with either cream or savory filling. It is a de-
lightful sandwich to serve in the tea rooms, which I think are fast be-
coming popular.
For the brioche weigh down the following quantities of materials :
Sponge 2 pounds flour, 1 quart of milk, 2 ounces yeast. Warm the
milk to about blood heat over the stove ; in this dissolve the yeast, then
stir in the flour. Set away in a warm place to rise. Now prepare the
following dough : 4 pounds strong flour, 30 eggs, 6 ounces sugar. Sieve
the flour into a bowl, make a bay and place in the eggs and 6 ounces
of the sugar. Make this into a real tough dough by stretching and
banging on .the bench; work into this dough 4 pounds butter slowly,
add about one-half pound at a time and work the dough well after
each addition. When all the butter is in take the sponge, which should
have risen enough by this time, and work into the butter dough with
6 ounces more sugar. Just mix through the sponge suf ficient to make
a clear dough. Put this away in a cool place for from eight to ten
hours. This is really an over night dough and if possible it should have
one knockdown during that time, say after six or seven hours. When
the dough is ready turn out onto the bench. For large rings scale at
1 pound 2 ounces; for ring twists 15 ounces. Pinch off the dough for
small rolls to scale 16 or 17 to the pound. The large rings are prepared
by first handing the dough up round. Allow this to stand a little
while, then make a hole in the center. Gradually open this out by let-
ting it run through the hands. Place onto baking sheets and brush
over with a heavy wash of egg yolks. Let stand a little while and give
another coating of egg yolks; give small proof, then make some inci-
sions with a pair of scissors around the top of the ring. Leave plain or
sprinkle a little granulated sugar with a few flaked almonds on top.
Hake in sound oven. For serving in tea rooms or coffee parlors the
handiest shapes are the oval arid finger rolls. These should be kept
small, as their smallness increases their daintiness. Give two coatings
of egg wash and mark several times on top with a sharp knife. The
fancy shaped rolls are usually eaten plain. The very smallest amount of
proof is necessary to keep them in perfect shape ; in fact, this rule
should apply to all brioche. The large rings retail at 35 cents each;
the ring twists at 30 cents and the small rolls at 25 to 30 cents per
dozen. If a faster dough is needed use 6 to 8 ounces of yeast to this
quantity of dough. This should be ready in about four hours with one
30
knockdown. Care should be taken to have the dough kept real cool
at all times, as it contains quite a quantity of butter. Without excep-
tion brioche is the richest fermented dough made, that is one from
which small rolls are made, and I can highly recommend this recipe to
any baker looking for something in this class. The distinguishing
characteristic of brioche is its short and cheesy nature when eaten.
UNFERMENTED BRIOCHE
Four pounds flour, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ounce bicarbonate
of soda, % pound butter, 8 eggs, 3 ounces sugar, 1 ounce of salt and
milk. Thoroughly mix the flour and chemicals together by sifting
them; rub in the butter, make a bay; add sugar, salt, eggs and suffi-
cient milk to make a fairly free dough. Make into various fancy
shapes; wash with yolks of eggs, let stand for half an hour and bake
in hot oven.
CHAPTERS.
CAKES FOR EVERY DAY SALES
TEA BISCUITS
Six pounds flour, 3 ounces cream of tartar, 1^ ounces soda, 1
pound lard, 4 ounces sugar, 1 ounce salt, 2 quarts milk. Rub the lard
into the flour, make a bay, place in the rest of the ingredients, lastly
milk. Mix into a clear dough without toughening too much. Cut out
with 2 inch plain cutter, pan close together on lightly greased baking
sheets, wash with egg and bake in hot oven. Retail at so much per
dozen.
JELLY ROLL No. 1
Two quarts eggs, 4^2 pounds granulated sugar, 2y% pounds strong
flour, vanilla flavor. Beat up the eggs and granulated sugar as for
sponge cake. Flavor with vanilla and mix through the flour lightly.
Divide between four papered baking sheets. When baked turn onto
clean sacks, wet the papers and remove, spread over thinly some rasp-
berry jam and roll tight, let stand tightly rolled in sack until quite
cold. Then cut into sections.
JELLY ROLL No. 2
Ten pounds sugar (half granulated and half powdered), 6 quarts
eggs, 1 ounce soda, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 2 ounces orange flower
water, 10 pounds flour. This mixture is for the highest class trade.
Place the eggs in the beater, add the sugar and beat up well, get it out
into a bowl and sift the soda in through a fine sieve and also add the
flavor, thoroughly mix in the cream of tartar through the sifted flour
and carefully mix into a clear dough ; spread it out in the usual way on
pans and when baked spread on thinly raspberry jam and roll up tight
in paper.
LADY FINGERS No. 1
One quart whites, % quarts yolks, 2 pounds powdered sugar, 2
pounds flour (half strong, half soft). Beat up the whites good and
stiff in either the kettle or machine, add about half the sugar gradually,
beat well after each addition. Now mix through the yolks gently, then
the remainder of the sugar with a little vanilla extract, mix through the
flour lightly with the hand. Sieve enough powdered sugar so that when
spread out it will be the length and breadth of a baking sheet. Lay out
the fingers with a bag and V\ inch plain tube on papers, pick up and
drop onto the powdered sugar, then onto the baking sheet. Bake in
sound oven. Remove from the papers by wetting the back and sand-
wich together in pairs. This is by far the best way to make lady fin-
gers, making a nice, bold, soft eating finger. Of course care should be
32 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
taken to have the whites nice and clean and to see that the receptacle
in which they are beaten up is also. Retail at so much per pound.
LADY FINGERS No. 2
One quart eggs, ^ pint yolks, 2 pounds granulated sugar, 2 pounds
flour (half strong and half soft). Warm the eggs, yolks and sugar
over the stove and beat up until light and thick, add a little flavoring,
then the flour. Proceed in the same way as for Lady Fingers No. 1.
ANGEL FOOD
One quart whites, 2 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pound soft flour, !/4
ounce of cream of tartar, 1 ounce corn starch, vanilla flavor. Beat up
the whites fairly stiff, then gradually beat in 1 pound of the sugar with
a good pinch of cream of tartar. Stir in the remainder of the sugar
mixed with the flour and cream of tartar. Soak the angel food pans
in cold water before using. Fill level and bake in moderate oven. Will
make seven to sell at 25 to 30 cents each. When baked and cool frost
with either white or chocolate fondant.
CRULLERS
Eight pounds flour, 3 ounces baking powder, l / 2 pound butter and
lard, 2 pounds sugar, 8 eggs, 4^ pints milk. Place the sugar, fat and
eggs together in a bowl. Rub a little and add a few drops of lemon oil
with a little egg color. Add the milk, then the flour and baking pow-
der. Mix sufficient to clear the dough. Cut out with regular cruller
.cutter and fry.
CHAPTEE 6.
PIES
Pie paste is a difficult thing for which to give any standard recipe.
Flour and lards vary so much in quality that it is best left to the baker
to adjust the recipe to the materials at hand. One shipment of lard
may be tough and another light and short, one contains more fat and
the other vice versa, so if the recipe given does not give satisfactory
results look to your materials. Flours vary in softness and likewise
water absorbing qualities. Both flour and lard are important in the
manufacture of good paste, so care in the selection of materials is neces-
sary if you would produce good pies.
For the paste weigh down the following : 12 pounds soft flour. G 1 /^
pounds lard, 4 ounces salt, 2 quarts water. Rub the lard through the
flour, add the salt and lastly water. Put together without overwork-
ing. A special paste for pies is given under the heading puff pastry
recipe No. 3.
PIE FILLINGS
Pie fillings, with the methods of preparation, etc., have been writ-
ten about so many times in the trade journals and every baker seems to
have his own method of preparing same, therefore I will touch very
lightly upon this subject. One thing I would like to mention. When-
ever possible use fresh fruit in preference to canned. Sharpen the taste
of fruit with an insipid flavor with the juice of lemons. Some fruits
should be partly cooked before placing in the pies. When using canned
fruits that are inclined to be sloppy after the addition of sugar would
advise cooking over the stove for a few minutes and adding 2 ounces
of cornstarch to each gallon of fruit.
CUSTARD FILLING FOR CUSTARD PIES
One quart milk, 4 eggs, 4 yolks, 6 ounces sugar, a little vanilla and
mace for flavoring.
LEMON PIE FILLING
Six quarts water, 5 pounds sugar, 16 eggs, juice and zest of 14
lemons, 1 pound 2 ounces corn starch. Place the sugar and water in a
copper kettle and bring to the boil, add the juice and lemon zest, then
the eggs and corn starch, which have been previously mixed together,
stir vigorously while adding eggs and corn starch and cook for a few
seconds over the stove. Fill level in the baked shells.
PUMPKIN PIE FILLING
One pint milk, 1 quart pumpkin, y 2 pound sugar, 1/2 ounce salt, !/2
ounce ginger, 14 ounce cinnamon, 5 eggs, 1% ounces butter. Cheapen
by the addition of 1 pint milk and 2 ounces flour.
34 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
CHOCOLATE CREAM PIES
Chocolate cream pies are finished in the same way as lemon cream
pies. For the chocolate cream weigh down the following : 1 quart milk,
5 eggs, 2 ounces corn starch, 6 ounces sugar, 4 ounces sweet chocolate,
2 ounces butter. Bring the milk to the boil over the stove, add sugar,
eggs and corn starch mixed together, stir a few minutes until it thick-
ens. Remove from the stove and add sweet chocolate, batter and a lit-
tle vanilla flavor, stir until dissolved. Fill into the baked shells while
warm.
COVERING MERINGUE FOR LEMON AND CHOCOLATE CREAM PIES
One quart whites, 3 pounds powdered sugar, pinch cream of tartar,
little vanilla flavor. Beat up the whites until stiff, add a pinch of
cream of tartar, then beat in gradually half the sugar, mix through the
remainder slowly with the hand or whip.
PUMPKIN PIE No. 2
In most high class stores a pumpkin pie with a nice yellow color
is usually asked for. To obtain this it is absolutely necessary to use
a fine grade of pumpkin. Providing everything is all right in this re-
spect weigh down the following : To each quart of pumpkin use 1 quart
milk, y 2 pound sugar, 5 eggs, little clove, cinnamon and mace.
OPEN FRUIT TARTS
For open fruit tarts line some 9 to 12 inch layer cake pans with
sweet short dough. For pineapple take a can of preserved pineapple,
tear it apart in small pieces with a fork, sprinkle a few cake crumbs
on the bottom of the tart, then the pineapple. Wash the edges with
egg, then place strips of sweet short dough opposite ways, forming a
series of diamond shaped spaces. Wash with egg and bake on the sole
of the oven. When baked turn out and brush with hot apricot jelly.
Other tarts are prepared in the same way. In the case of blueberries,
etc., first cook the fruit with sugar and add 4 ounces corn starch to the
gallon, allow to cool off before using. Retail from 30 to 50 cents each.
CHAPTER 7.
COOKIES
For premier cookies weigh down the following : 4 pounds soft
flour, 3 pounds sugar, 3 pounds lard, 2y 2 pounds golden syrup, 2
ounces baking soda, 16 eggs, 1*4 ounces ginger. Sieve the soda with
the flour and make into a bay. Place in the butter, sugar, syrup and
eggs. Dough up in the usual way for cookies. Roll out very thin and
cut out with cutter 2y 2 inches in diameter. Turn onto granulated
sugar and place on well greased pans ; 12 on a pan is sufficient, as
they spread quite a lot. Bake in moderate oven. Will make 24 dozen.
QUEEN COOKIES
Six and a half pounds of soft flour, 4 pounds granulated sugar, 2
pounds lard, 14 eggs, % pint milk, l 1 /^ ounces ammonia. Sieve the
flour and granulated sugar together and rub in the lard. Make a bay,
dissolve the ammonia in the mix, add the eggs and dough up in the
usual way. Pin out real thin and cut out with 3-inch scalloped cutter
and place on greased pans. Wash with a little egg, molasses and water
mixed together. Bake in good oven.
HONEY COOKIES
For honey cookies weigh down the following: 14 pounds flour, 1
gallon of honey, % pound sugar, 1 pound lard, 4 ounces baking soda, 8
eggs, about 1 pint water, 1 ounce ammonia, ginger and lemon for fla-
vor. Rub the lard into the flour, make a bay and place in the remain-
der of the ingredients. Dough up in the usual way. This dough should
be allowed to stand over night to mature. When ready pin out fairly
thin and cut out with 2^-inch scalloped cutter. Place on greased pans
and bake in medium oven. Retail at 20 to 25 cents per dozen. This
makes a real nice eating cooky when properly made and one that shows
a good profit.
FIG COOKIES
For fig cookies weigh down the following : 5 pounds sugar, 3%
pounds lard, 1 ounce cinnamon, 1% ounces soda, l 1 /^ pounds figs, 1^4
pounds raisins, 1 quart eggs, 1 quart milk, 9 pounds flour, 4 ounces
cream of tartar. Rub together the lard and sugar, add the eggs in two
additions, then the milk and lastly flour, baking powder, raisins, figs
(coarsely chopped) and spices. Drop out with the hand on greased
pans in drops about twice the size of a silver dollar, dust with granu-
lated sugar and bake in moderate oven. Retail at 20 to 25 cents per
dozen.
36 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
RAISIN COOKIES
Two pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter and lard, 10 eggs, 3 pounds
raisins, 4 pounds flour, 1 ounce baking powder, vanilla flavoring. Rub
the fat and sugar together a little, add the eggs and flavoring, then the
raisins, lastly flour and baking powder. Pin out to % inch in thickness
and cut out with plain cutter 2y 2 inches in diameter; pan onto dry
baking sheets. Retail at 20 cents per dozen.
GINGER COOKIES
One pound butter and lard, 1 quart molasses and honey, 4 eggs, 2
ounces soda, 4 pounds flour, 1 ounce ginger, little cinnamon, cloves
and mace. Rub the butter and lard together in the bowl, add the
molasses and eggs, then the spices, the soda, dissolved in a little milk,
and lastly flour. Pin out to % inch in thickness, cut out with plain
cutter 2*4 inches in diameter, turn onto granulated sugar, then onto
greased pans. Bake.
WHITE SUGAR COOKIES
Two pounds sugar, 1 pound butter and lard, % pint of eggs, 1 pint
milk, 4 pounds flour, 1 ounce cream of tartar, y 2 ounce soda. Rub the
butter and sugar together, add the eggs with a little lemon flavoring,
then the milk, lastly flour and baking powder. Pin out the same as
for ginger cookies, turn onto granulated sugar, then onto greased pans.
Bake.
OATMEAL COOKIES
Six pounds sugar, 3 pounds lard, 3 pounds oatmeal, 2 pounds rai-
sins, l l /2 ounces soda, 1 pint water, 10 eggs, 6 pounds flour. Rub the
sugar and lard together, add the eggs, then the water and fruit, lastly
add the flour and oatmeal. Pin out on the bench fairly thin, cut out
with plain round cutter 2y 2 inches in diameter, place on greased pans
and bake in moderate oven.
FANCY BUTTER COOKIES
For fancy butter cookies weigh down the following: 2 l / 2 pounds
sugar, 4 pounds butter, 12 eggs, 6 pounds soft flour, vanilla flavor.
Cream the butter and sugar together, add the eggs a few at a time, then
the vanilla extract and lastly flour. With a bag and small star tube
lay out in small shapes on baking sheet (not greased), describe a circle
when laying out with the bag. By the time the whole mix is laid out
the first pan will be ready. Now make a small hole in the center of
each cooky by pressing in with the finger almost to the pan. Place a
spot of apricot jelly in half the mix with a little raspberry jam in the
other half. Bake in medium oven.
GINGER NUTS
Six pounds of soft flour, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ounce bicar-
bonate of soda, 1 pound of sugar, 10 ounces butter and lard, 5 pounds
of molasses, y 2 ounce mixed spice, l l / 2 ounces ginger. Sift the flour,
cream of tartar and soda together, make a bay and place in the sugar,
ginger and spice. Put the butter, lard and molasses in a lar<?e can and
warm through on the oven stock. Turn into the bay and make into a
COOKIES 37
fairly firm dough with warm water. Let stand for an hour. When
ready pull off a piece and roll into a long strip about the thickness of
your finger and break into pieces about twice the size of a glace
cherry. As they are broken off throw into a sieve dusted with flour.
When the sieve is about half full give a few movements as if sifting
flour to form them into small balls. Place on well greased baking
sheet about 1^/2 inches apart, thus giving them room to spread. Splash
with water and press out each one quickly, using the ball part of the
thumb. Drain off the water and bake in moderate oven. Sell per
pound.
SCOTCH PERKINS
Three and a half pounds oatmeal, 3 pounds of soft flour, \y 2
pounds powdered sugar, % pound lard, 2 ounces bicarbonate of soda, 1
ounce ammonia, 2 pounds molasses, V% ounce tartaric acid. Mix the
flour and oat meal together and rub in the lard, make a bay; put the
other ingredients in the center, mix together and make all into a firm
dough. Weigh off 3 ounces for two, roll up round and place on well
greased baking sheets, about 18 to the sheet ; press out well with the
ball part of the thumb, wash with milk and bake in moderate oven at
about 300 degrees.
CRISP FANCIES
For crisp fancies weigh down the following: 9 pounds flour, 6
pounds fine granulated sugar, 4i/ pounds of butter, 1 quart of eggs.
Rub the butter, sugar and eggs together until smooth; flavor with
lemon extract and make into smooth dough with the flour. Pin out to
% inch in thickness on the bench and divide into pieces 2 inches square
with a knife. Wash lightly with egg and sprinkle over a mixture com-
posed of flaked almonds and granulated sugar in equal proportions.
Place onto dry pans and bake in moderate oven. Sell per dozen.
SPICE DROPS
For spice drops weigh down the following: 1 pound of butter, 1
pound sugar, 8 eggs, 1 quart molasses, 2 ounces of soda, 4y 2 pounds
soft flour, 1 quart milk, 2 ounces ginger, 1 ounce cinnamon. Cream the
butter and sugar together, add the eggs, then molasses and milk ; lastly
flour, spices and baking soda. With bag and half inch plain tube drop
out onto greased and dusted baking sheets the size of half an egg. Bake
in hot oven. Sell per dozen.
LEMON COOKIES
Six pounds of sugar, half powdered and half granulated, l l / 2
pounds butter, l 1 /^ pounds lard, 1 quart eggs, y 2 ounce lemon, 1 ounce
ammonia, 8 pounds cake flour. Rub up the sugar and shortening, add
the eggs, use just a little water to dissolve the ammonia, and mix into
a clear dough. Roll 14 inch thick, cut with a plain round 2 l / 2 inch cut-
ter, wash, off with egg wash, let dry half hour. Bake in medium heat.
COCOANUT COOKIES
Three pounds sugar, I 1 /! pounds butter and lard, 15 eggs, 2y 2
pounds flour, 4 l / 2 pounds cocoanut (medium cut), iy 2 ounces baking
38 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
powder, vanilla flavor and a little milk. Rub together the fat and
sugar, add the eggs and vanilla flavoring, then the flour, and lastly
cocoanut with about % pint of milk. Ball up between the hands and
place on greased pans. Before taking to the oven dip the hand occa-
sionally in water and press down until they are about l 1 /^ inches in di-
ameter. Bake. Sell per dozen.
ANGEL COOKIES
Two pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 quart egg whites, 3 pounds
flour, 1/2 ounce cream of tartar. Beat up the whites until quite stiff,
mix in the sugar gradually, then the cream of tartar with a little vanilla
flavoring. Mix through the flour lightly, then the butter (melted).
Lay out with bag and tube on well greased pans ; flatten by dropping
the pan onto the bench, dust with coarsely chopped almonds and bake
in moderate oven. Sell per dozen.
JELLY RINGS
Five pounds soft flour, 3 pounds butter and lard, 2 l /2 pounds
powdered sugar, 8 eggs. Rub the butter and lard into the flour, make
a bay, add the sugar and eggs and make into a nice smooth dough.
Pin this paste to !/4 inch in thickness and cut out with plain cutter
(round) 2y 2 inches in diameter. Remove the centers from half the bis-
cuits with a cutter 1^2 inches in diameter. Place on baking sheets and
bake in hot oven. Sandwich the biscuits together with red jelly, plac-
ing the biscuit with the center removed on top. Fill in the center with
clear red jelly and sprinkle a little cocoanut colored pale green on top.
When baking the biscuits bake sufficient to just color the edges. This
leaves the center of the biscuit almost white and shows up in bold con-
trast to the red jelly. Sell per dozen.
ITALIAN BISCUITS
For Italian biscuits weigh the following: 8 pounds soft flour, 4
pounds butter, 2 pounds powdered sugar, 8 eggs, l 1 /^ ounces ammonia,
lemon flavor. Rub the butter, sugar and eggs until smooth, but not
creamed ; draw in the flour and give a good rubbing until you have a
smooth dough. Pin out in sheets to Vs inch in thickness and cut out
with a crinkled cutter 2 inches in diameter until half the doutrh is
used up. Pin out sheets for tops and cut out with crinkled cutter l 1 /^
inches in diameter; cut out the center of the tops with 1-inch plain
cutter, wash the bottoms with milk and fix on as for patty shells. Wash
the biscuits over with egg, turn on coarse cocoanut and place on baking
sheets an inch apart. Bake in oven, 400 degrees, to a rich brown.
When cool fill in the center with a bulb of pink fondant and place half
of a glace cherry on top. Sell per dozen.
RICE WAFER
Four pounds soft flour, 12 ounces ground rice, 1% pounds butter,
'2 l /2 pounds sugar, 6 eggs, l 1 /^ ounces ammonia, V? gill water. Flavor
with essence of bitter almonds. Rub the butter in the flour, make a
bay, add the sugar, eggs, ammonia and water, mix well together and
draw in the flour ; make into a firm dough. Take half this mixture and
roll to i/4 inch in thickness; with round cutter l 1 /^ inches in diameter
COOKIES 39
cut out and place on well greased baking sheets 3 inches apart. Bake
in cool oven with door open. The quantities mentioned in this recipe
should be carefully weighed and excellent results will be obtained. Sell
per dozen.
FRUIT WAFERS
Two pounds strong flour, 1^ pounds tough butter (or substitute)
and the juice of a lemon. Weigh down the flour, break the butter into
pieces the size of a 50-cent piece and mix through the flour. Make a
bay and add the juice of a lemon, with just sufficient water to make a
firm paste. Do not overwork. Let stand in a cool place for about
half an hour. Then give four turns as for French pastry and let stand
for a short time to recover. Take a piece of this prepared paste and
pin out the length and width of a baking sheet, roll it as thin as possi-
ble. Now spread on a layer of the following mixture: 4 pounds cur-
rants, 1 pound mixed peel, a little chopped preserved pineapple and a
little chopped glace cherries. Mix together and sprinkle on dry. Keep
the layer of fruit as thin as possible, dust liberally with sugar and then
splash lightly with water. Cover with another thin layer of paste, run-
ning the rolling pin over several times to make it even. Dust well with
granulated sugar and mark into pieces 1^ inches square, cutting
through the top layer of paste with the knife. Let stand for about
half an hour to take the spring out of the paste, and then bake in mod-
erate to hot oven. When cold cut through the marks made in the
paste with a sharp knife, place on trays and retail at 30 to 35 cents
per pound. They should be dried out pretty well in baking. This in-
sures them eating nice and crisp.
40
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
Dough Ready for Rolling- Ready to Receive Butter Showing Butter
Spread over Dough
Dough rolled out, ends folded together, folded over, completing turn
A COMPLETE PUFF PASTRY TURN
CHAPTER 8.
In pastry making, to obtain good results, it is essential to use the
best of materials. Probably the butter is the most important. This
should be of good flavor and very tough. In summer time it is of spe-
cial importance to choose a butter that will not soften quickly when
subjected to the heat of the bakery. If there is any water in its make-
up this should be freed by working the butter on the bench. The object
in freeing the water is to prevent the thin layers of dough from becom-
ing water sodden, thus causing them to break and spoil the continu-
ity of the layers. Flour is equally important. All strong flour will
cause the paste to shrink when baking, therefore a mixture of 4 pounds
strong and 2 pounds soft should suit the purpose admirably. The addi-
tion of a little cream of tartar or lemon juice to the dough tends to
toughen and prevents the dough from breaking when being pinned out.
For puff pastry No. 1 weigh down the following : 6 pounds of flour, 6
pounds butter, ^ pint whole eggs, bare 1/2 ounce cream of tartar. Sieve
the flour into the bowl, make a bay and place in 4 ounces of the butter,
the eggs and cream of tartar and about 1 quart of water. Make into
a tough dough by banging and stretching on the bench.
Roll up into a ball and allow to rest for a few minutes. Now take
a knife and cut a deep cross in the dough, dust lightly with flour and
pin out into oblong shape on the bench. Press out the butter to cover
two-thirds of the paste, fold over remaining third to center, fold over
the other third on top of that. There is a slight difference in the method
of folding for a pastry turn. The dough is pinned out oblong shape
and the two ends folded to the center. Now one-half of the paste is
drawn over on top of the other half. This is what constitutes a so-
called pastry turn. Three of these turns should be given at this stage,
the paste allowed to rest for two hours, then given three more turns,
making six in all. Allow to stand for an hour and it is ready for use.
In successful pastry baking much lies in the care of the dough during
the process of rolling. It is necessary to keep the dough cool at all
times. More often than not after the third turn the dough is so soft
as to be almost impossible to handle. This is especially true in the
summer time. When this is the case the dough should be kept in the
icebox or have a pan of cracked ice set on top directly after rolling.
THREE-QUARTER PASTE
Six pounds flour, 4y 2 pounds butter, l 1 /^ pint yolks, % ounce cream
of tartar, good 1 quart of water. Proceed in the same way as for puff
paste No. 1. This is a good paste to use for savory goods, with the
exception of patty shells and vol-au-vent. The paste has not quite so
much "spring" and retains the marking of a knife much better than
the previous recipe.
42 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
ROLLED IN PASTE FOR PIES
This is a nice paste to use for bakers who have a good pie trade and
can command a good price for same. Six pounds flour, 4 eggs, 4 pounds
butter and lard, V2 ounce cream of tartar, 2^2 pints water. Make a
firm, tough dough with the flour, eggs and cream of tartar, V^ pound
lard and water. Roll the remainder of the fat in as for puff paste Xo.
1, giving four turns.
SAVORY PASTRIES
For patty shells pin out a piece of the straight paste to Vs inch in
thickness and cut out with scalloped cutter 2y 2 inches in diameter.
Place onto baking sheets lightly splashed with water. Cut out an equal
quantity of pieces for the tops, remove the centers with a plain round
cutter IVi inches in diameter. Wash the pieces already panned with
egg and place the tops in position, press down a little with the bottom
of a quart measure, allow to stand for a few' minutes, wash with egg
and bake. (See Plate Xo. 1.)
VOL-AU-VENT
This is rather a difficult pastry to prepare, but if the paste is right
and one is careful in choosing a good pan (one that is not liable to
warp) there should not be much difficulty. They are usually made to
hold a savory filling. Pin out a piece of good straight paste to '% inch
in thickness, take a piece of flat tin and cut to oval, oblong or diamond
shape and lay on top of paste. Dip a sharp knife in hot water and cut
down into the paste running around the edges of the tin. Place the shape
on a baking sheet splashed lightly with water, notch the sides with the
back of the knife and wash the top with a strong egg wash. Now cut
down deep into the paste all the way around about half an inch from
the sides and mark out some fancy leaf design, let stand for half an
hour to lose its "spring" and bake. When baked take off the top and
remove the center, leaving just the casing. A good many bakers pre-
fer making the top separate. To do this pin out a piece of paste to !/^.
inch in thickness and cut out a little smaller shape than the Vol-au-
Yent, wash with egg, mark out a design on top, allow to stand for half
an hour, then bake.
CHEESE STRAWS
For cheese straws scrap paste given one turn is good enough. Pin
this out very thin, wash with egg and sprinkle over some grated cheese
(Parmesan for preference) through which has been mixed a pinch of
cayenne pepper, fold over as for pastry turn, wash with egg again and
sprinkle on a little more cheese, give one more fold, then pin out as
thinly as possible, wash with egg and throw over a little more grated
cheese. With a sharp knife divide in pieces l /2 inch wide and about 6
inches long. A good cheese straw is made by just pinninsr out the paste
as thinly as possible, wash with egg and sprinkle with grated cheese cut
as for cheese straws No. 1.
MEAT PATTIES. ETC.
These are very popular all over Europe and are served in some of
the high class restaurants and hotels in this country. In France wine
PUFF PASTRY
43
is very often mixed with the meat, but as a rule this would make it too
expensive for the average bakery store and restaurant to handle." The
meat fillings for moderate priced articles are usually cheapened by the
addition of a water soaked bread. The usual way is to have the meat
ground up very fine. Beef patties are great favorites. Add the sea-
soning, pepper, salt, etc., soften down with a few beaten eggs. Pin out
a piece of paste to about % inch in thickness and cut out with plain
round cutter, wash the sides with egg and place a ball of the meat in the
center. Place a piece of paste the same size and thickness as the bottom
on top, press around the sides and make the top and bottom adhere.
Wash with a strong egg wash and mark a little, leaf design on top.
An oblong shape patty is made by pinning out a piece of paste to
Vs inch in thickness, divide into sections 3 l /2 by 4y 2 inches with the pie
marker. Wash the edges with egg wash and place a roll of the meat in
the center, bring the ends of each piece of paste together and press
together with the flat of the bowl knife. Wash with egg and mark out
a design on top with a sharp knife.
SWEET PASTRIES AND ALMOND TARTS
Pin out some good straight paste to about l /s inch in thickness,
spread over this a fairly thin mixture composed of almond paste and
sugar in equal proportions, soften down with whites of eggs, spread
over thinly and on top of this sprinkle some blanched and flaked
almonds. Cut into oblong shaped pieces 2~y 2 inches by 4 inches, place a
little apart on baking sheets sprinkled lightly with water, let rest for
Cheese Straws
Patty Shells
44 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
a few minutes and bake. When baked fill with a good vanilla cream in
the same way as filling eclairs. Retail at 5 cents each.
FRENCH STRAWS
Pin out a piece of straight paste to ^ inch in thickness and cut
into strips % inch wide and 5 inches long. Place half of these on bak-
ing sheets, cut side to the pan about 4 or 5 across is enough, as they
must have room to spread. Take the other half and give a complete
twist in the center and place cut side to the pan. Press down with the
palm of the hand and bake in fairly hot oven. When the pieces with the
twist in the center are half baked draw to the mouth of the oven and
dust with powdered sugar. Return to the oven until glazed. When
baked sandwich in pairs (a twisted piece on top) with whipped and
sweetened cream. Retail at 90 cents per dozen.
NAPOLEONS
This seems to be a popular pastry with all classes of trade and is
one of the most easily made. Pin out some scrap pastry to % inch in
thickness and the length and breadth of a baking sheet. Place on the
baking sheet and dock w r ith a fork, divide into 4 or 5 strips about 6
inches wide, let rest a while, then bake. When half baked draw to the
mouth of the oven, turn over, dry out well, as they eat much better and
are easier to cut if baked well. Sandwich three of these strips together
with vanilla cream or whipped cream in fact there is no set rule as
to what filling should be used. Ice on top with various colored fond-
ants and decorate with cherries and angelica or creams. Cut into sec-
tions 2 inches wide. Retail at 90 cents per dozen.
Almost every baker is familiar with the pretzel shape. The pastry
for these is pinned out to Vs inch in thickness, cut into strips about 12
inches long and V inch wide, the two ends touched with egg wash and
formed into pretzel shape, wash with egg, drop into granulated sugar,
pan and bake. Retail at 25 or 30 cents per dozen.
Oval crisps are made in a similar manner to sweethearts. The pas-
try is first pinned out, then washed and sugared and one end folded to
the center and the other end lapped over that, with a little egg wash
on the end to make the closing hold. Cut into sections l / ? . inch w T ide and
place cut side to pan. Bake and retail at 50 cents per dozen.
CHERRY AND JELLY TARTLETS
Pin out a piece of straight paste to y& inch in thickness and cut
into pieces about 4 inches square, dab a little egg wash in the center
of each piece and turn in the four corners to almost join in the center,
press in just a little. For the cherry tarts place three or four canned
cherries in the center of each piece, let rest a \vhile and bake. When
partly cool wash with hot apricot jelly. Retail at 60 cents per dozen.
The jelly tartlets are fixed up in the same w r ay as the cherry, of course,
with the exception of placing the cherry in the center. When baked
make a hole in the top with the forefinger and force in a little raso-
berry jelly. Dust with XXXX sugar and retail at 90 cents per dozen.
PUFF PASTRY 45
APPLE PUFFS AND FRUIT PASTRY
Quite a number of pastries are made in a somewhat similar method
to the cherry tartlets. The fruit, if too damp, should be dried a little
with a cloth before placing on the pastries. After baking wash with
hot apricot jelly. For apple puffs pin out a piece of paste to 14 inch in
thickness and cut out with scalloped cutters 3 inches in diameter, pin
these out a little thinner with a rolling pin and oval shape, place two
pieces of canned apple in the center with a little cinnamon sugar, wash
on side with egg and fold over. Wash with water, drop in granulated
sugar, pan and bake in medium oven. Retail at 90 cents per dozen.
ALMOND PASTRIES
Pin out a piece of good puff paste to about the thickness of a 25-
cent piece, wash with egg and sprinkle over rather thickly a mixture
consisting of equal parts. of granulated sugar and flaked or chopped
almonds. Divide in strips 1^ inches wide and cut three-cornered
shape ; place on clean baking sheets and bake in a hot oven. Retail at
90 cents per pound.
DIAMOND CHIPS
For diamond chips pin out a piece of good puff paste to the thick-
ness of a 25-cent piece ; place this on a baking sheet and put away in a
cool place for half an hour to lose its "spring". Cover thinly with
royal icing made from the following: Break 5 or 6 whites into a clean
bowl and make into a nice light icing with XXXX sugar and
strong flour. The addition of flour will prevent the icing leaving the
paste when baking. Divide in strips l 1 ^ inches wide, cut into diamond
shapes ; place on baking sheets and bake in moderate oven. For vari-
ety color half pink and cut oblong and square shapes. Care should be
taken to see that the icing is not discolored in baking. Retail at 90
cents per pound.
SPANISH PUFFS
Pin out a piece of good puff paste to about ]/16 of an inch in thick-
ness and cut into pieces 4 inches square ; wash with egg and fold over
to make a three-cornered pastry ; wash with egg white and dust over
a mixture of flaked almonds and granulated sugar in equal parts; let
rest for a while and bake in medium oven. When cool slice almost in
two and fill with whipped cream ; sprinkle a little chopped pistachio
nut on the cream showing. Retail at 90 cents per dozen.
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
DESIGN AND MONOGRAM FOR WEDDING CAKE
CAKE TOP DESIGN SHOWING SEPARATED INITIALS
CHAPTER 9.
CHOU PASTRY
Most bakers are familiar with the usual run of goods prepared
from this mixture (eclairs, cream puffs, etc.). The following recipes
cover all previous ground in this respect with revised and up-to-date
methods of finishing them, also new goods that have appeared during
the last two or three years. These can be added to the list with very
little additional trouble.
CHOU PASTRY No. 1
For mixture No. 1 weigh down the following: 1 pound butter, 2
quarts milk, 36 eggs, 214 pounds strong flour, about as much powdered
ammonia as you can lay on a 50-cent piece, a little mace and vanilla.
Place the milk and butter in a copper kettle and bring to a boil over
the stove. Stir in the flour with a large wooden spatula, stir vigor-
ously for a few seconds until the mixture leaves the sides of the kettle
and hangs around the spatula, then transfer to a mixing bowl or ma-
chine kettle. Now beat in the eggs two or three at a time; don't be
afraid to work it around a little; add the powdered ammonia, then the
flavoring and mace with the last two or three eggs.
CHOU PASTRY No. 2
One quart of milk and water, 10 ounces butter and lard, 1 ounce of
sugar, 1 pound 6 ounces of strong flour, 18 to 20 eggs, little mace and
vanilla, good pinch of ammonia.
CHOU PASTRY No. 3
One quart of w r ater, % pound lard, l l / 2 pounds strong flour, 14
ounce ammonia, 20 eggs, little mace and vanilla.
RICH CREAM FILLING FOR ECLAIRS, ETC.
One quart milk, 4 eggs, 4 yolks, 1^2 ounces corn starch. % pound
sugar, 2 ounces butter, vanilla flavoring. Bring the milk to a boil
over the stove and stir in the eggs, corn starch and sugar, well beaten
together, until thick ; remove from the stove, then add the butter ; when
cool add the flavoring.
For the eclairs lay out the mixture with bag and V2 inch plain tube
on lightly greased baking sheets to 3^ inches in length. For all pas-
tries of this kind I usually bake with the oven door partly open for
the first two or three minutes ; this applies to all goods prepared from
this mixture. When baked fill with vanilla cream and ice with maple
or chocolate fondant. When frosting the eclairs dip into the icing, then
comb the sides with the forefinger; in this way a much neater looking
article is made than by having the chocolate running in streaks down
the sides. The icing should be a little thicker than used for other goods.
48
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
/&
French Crullers
Eclairs
French Crullers
Bouchees
Bordeaux Creams
Bouchees
Crescents
Eclairs
Eclairs
Fedora Pastry
French Eclairs
Bouchees
Matinee Creams
1'ralinee Buns
Kidney Petits Choux
CHOU PASTRY 49
FRENCH ECLAIRS
Take some of the empty eclairs and frost with various colored
fondants. Allow to stand half an hour or so for the icing to set firm,
then with a sharp knife cut open the top straight down the center. Fill
in with whipped and sweetened cream. Sprinkle a little chopped pis-
tachio nut on top or finely chopped almonds, colored green, through
which has been mixed a tinge of yellow.
CHOUX A LA CREME
Lay out the mixture in small bulbs the size of a dollar piece with
bag and L /2 inch plain tube on lightly greased baking sheets. When
'naked, make a hole in the side with the forefinger and force in some
whipped and sweetened cream ; dust over with a little XXXX sugar.
A favorite pastry which has a large sale is prepared in the same
way as chou a la creme. Frost with maple fondant in place of XXXX
sugar.
PRALINEE CREAM BUNS
Prepare some pralinee from the following : roast 1 pound of whole
almonds in the skins until nicely brown through ; now place on the
stove l!/4 pounds sugar in small copper kettle ; cook to caramel or until
the sugar assumes a golden brown color, then mix in the almonds, turn
out onto a greased slab, crush under a rolling pin and separate the fine
particles from the coarse by sieving ; the fine powder is used for flavor-
ing purposes and the coarse for decorating. Take some small cases, as
used for choux a la creme, fill with whipped cream flavored with pra-
linee powder, frost on top very thinly with white fondant, and sprinkle
over seme of the coarse particles of pralinee. Retail at so much per
dozen.
Fill a bag containing a star tube with No. 1 mixture, force out
ring shape as for vanilla wafers on heavily greased papers ; the size of
the paper should be cut according to the size of the cruller pot. Have
the fat a little hotter than for doughnut frying and place in the paper
of crullers ; hold in the hot fat for a minute by one end of the paper, al-
low to cook thoroughly on this side before turning over, finish frying
and when cool ice thinly with fondant flavored with lemon zest or
dust with XXXX sugar. A very common mistake among bakers is hav-
ing the fat too cool for crullers. The fat should be hot enough to keep
the cruller in shape and should be thoroughly cooked on one side before
turned over. Retail at so much per dozen.
FEDORA PASTRIES
Cut out some round shaped pieces of light sheet cake, brush the
sides with hot apricot jelly and roll in roasted flaked almonds; spread
a little whipped cream on top, and in the center of this place a small
cream puff filled with whipped cream flavored with ground roasted
almonds, dust XXXX sugar over the whole. Retail at so much per
dozen.
50 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
BORDEAUX PASTRIES
Fill a bag containing a star tube with No. 1 mixture and lay out
oval shape on lightly greased baking sheets; when baked fill with
whipped cream and dust with XXXX sugar. Pipe a zigzag line of red
jelly running from end to end on top. Retail at so much per dozen.
Quite a few high class pastries are made by cutting out some sweet
short paste with a round scalloped cutter; place these on clean baking
sheets, then pipe a ring of No. 1 mixture around the edges. Bake, and
when cool dip in chocolate fondant and fill in the center pyramid form
with whipped cream; sprinkle a little pistachio nut in the center. To
make a variety use different colored and flavored fondants.
A nice pastry is made by placing half a preserved peach in the
center of the ring before baking ; when baked tint the peach with a lit-
tle red color, cover with a spoonful of hot apricot jelly, finish with a
leaf cut from angelica.
CRESCENTS
Lay out No. 1 mixture with bag and plain tube in crescent shape,
bake and fill with either whipped or vanilla custard cream; ice with
various colored fondants. Retail at so much per dozen.
LEMON CREAM BUNS
These are usually made small and retailed by the dozen. Lay out
the mixture with bag and plain tube about the size of a dollar piece ;
when baked fill with a rich lemon cream, frost on top with an icing pre-
pared from the juice and zest of lemons and XXXX sugar. Retail at
so much per dozen.
GATEAU SAINT HONORE
Cut out a piece of sweet short paste about the diameter of an ordi-
nary layer cake pan, place on a clean baking sheet and dock with a
fork and bake. Pipe with a bag and plain tube a ring of No. 1 paste
around the edges. Force out on a separate pan 15 or 16 small cream
puffs about the size of a 25 cent piece ; bake. Boil 1 pound granulated
sugar with !/ pint water and a pinch of cream of tartar to caramel or
until it assumes a pale straw color ; dip the small cream buns separately
and place around the edges of the gateau. Glace with cherries and nuts
at the same time as the small cream puffs, these to be used for decorat-
ing the gateau. Now fill in the center with a little rich custard cream
and over this pipe a pyramid of whipped and sweetened cream ; decor-
ate with glace fruit and nuts. These can be made to adhere to the
sides by dipping quickly in a little caramel sugar and placing on be-
fore being allowed to set.
An elaborate gateau is prepared by dipping all kinds of fresh
fruit, orange quarters, etc., in the caramel sugar and decorating on top
with a little spun sugar. Retail from $2.00 upwards.
BOUCHEES, ETC.
Some very dainty goods are prepared by laying out No. 1 mixture
in small bulbs the size of a 25-cent piece. When baked these are filled
with various flavored butter creams, a hole is made in the side with a
pair of scissors and the cream is forced in through a strong paper cone.
CHOU PASTRY 51
For the puffs filled with butter cream flavored with nuts (roasted
almonds, ground fine, roasted hazelnuts, and filberts, etc., probably
being the prime favorites), boil some sugar almost to caramel, add a
pinch of cream of tartar when boiling. Hold the bouchee between the
thumb and forefinger and dip half way into the caramel sugar. Place
in neat white paper cases.
For chocolate bouchees flavor the butter cream with melted sweet
chocolate, cover the bouchees by dipping in chocolate fondant, then
sprinkle over some sweet chocolate rubbed over the coarse grater.
A nice way of finishing the almond bouchees is to brush over with
hot apricot jelly, then sprinkle over some coarsely chopped roasted
almonds; dust lightly with pow r dered sugar.
Needless to say, for goods in this class a very smooth, rich butter
cream is necessary, preferably one made by beating into the creamed
sweet butter freshly made meringue. The following quantities will in-
sure good results : 4 pounds sweet butter, iy 2 pints whites, 4% pounds
pow r dered sugar.
In high class stores, when neatly packed in boxes of 1 dozen each,
the bouchees command anything from 80 cents per dozen upward and
are usually in great demand for afternoon teas, etc.
Chocolate Bouchees
52
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
Frogs Lambs
EASTER SPECIALTIES
MERINGUE GOODS
CHAPTER 10.
MERINGUE GOODS
It is surprising what a variety of goods are made from this mixture,
and their popularity seems to be general. The standard mixture for
these goods usually calls for about 6 pounds sugar to the quart of egg
whites, although for some of the goods, if large enough quantities are
made to make a special batch, 4 to 4y 2 pounds is sufficient. It is an
open question in bakeries whether fresh egg whites or those that have
been allowed to stand for a day or so are best to use for this purpose.
In my opinion those that have been exposed to the air for a day or so
give much better results than the fresh egg whites, as during the expos-
ure part of the moisture evaporates, causing an increase in the propor-
tion of albumen. The difference is distinctly noticeable if two quanti-
ties of whites are used, one old and one fresh, and beaten up at the
same time, using a machine, of course, so that an accurate record can
be taken. The heat of the oven is another important thing. It is one
thing to say, bake in a heat of 300 degrees, but quite another thing
to get your oven down as low as that ; possibly, too, the quantity made
is not sufficient to warrant cooling the oven to that extent. I know the
difficulties that arise in the small bakeries where anything and every-
thing has to be made. In the case of having to use a fairly warm oven,
use at least 6 pounds of sugar to the quart, as using this quantity of
sugar the shells or kisses would not be so liable to crack as if a smaller
quantity of sugar is used.
To make the meringue place the whites with 1/2 pound granulated
sugar to the quart in the machine kettle. Beat these up until fairly
stiff, then add a little cream of tartar (about a teaspoonful to two
quarts of whites). Now start adding the sugar a little at a time. Beat
about half of this in and stir in the remainder with vanilla flavor, the
machine running on slow speed. Four quarts whites, 2 pounds granu-
lated sugar, 22 pounds powdered sugar, tablespoonful cream of tartar,
vanilla flavoring.
MERINGUE SHELLS
Dampen some boards with water and cover with brown straw
paper. Lay out the shells, using either a plain or a star tube, about 3
inches long and 1% inches in breadth is the usual size ; dust lightly
with powdered sugar and place in coolest part of the oven. When set,
or rather, when a crust firm enough to handle has been formed over
the meringue, draw to the mouth of the oven and remove the center of
each shell with a spoon. Do not take out too much or the shell will be
too fragile to handle ; set them bottom side up on a baking sheet ; sieve
over a little XXXX sugar and return to the oven for two or three min-
utes. Store away in pairs in an airtight container.
Another way is to lay out the shells on greased and floured baking
54
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
.MERINGUE GOODS
sheets. When set sufficient to handle, press in the centers with an egg ;
return to the oven for a few minutes and pack in the usual way.
It is usual in most high grade stores to wrap these in wax paper
before sending out. The paper used should be very thin, and wrap in
the same way as for candy molasses kisses ; twist at each end close to
the shell, leaving a fluffy end.
MERINGUE MUSHROOMS
Lay out the meringue on wet boards covered with straw paper in
bold drops about an inch in diameter, using i/^-mcli plain tube for the
purpose ; dust lightly with chocolate powder or cocoa before placing in
the oven. With the same size tube make an equal number of stalks for
the mushrooms by forcing the meringue through the tube on paper bak-
ing sheets. Press the tube close to the paper and draw away with an
upward movement, making a small cone shape ; dry in the oven. When
the tops of the mushrooms are ready that is, when a crust has formed
so that they are firm enough to handle remove from the wet boards
and place bottom side up on a clean baking sheet and dust lightly with
chocolate powder. Now press in the stalks, point downward, into the
soft meringue.
For something very special in the way of mushrooms clean out the
dried tops as for meringue shells and fill with whipped and sweetened
cream and make the stalks of marzipan. These are something really
high grade and should be priced accordingly. A good marzipan is
MERINGUE GOODS 55
made from the following : 2 pounds almond paste, 11/2 pounds XXXX
sugar, orange flower water for flavoring; sufficient yolks to make
into a stiff pliable paste.
MARASCHINO MERINGUES
Lay out the meringue mixture in the same way as for mushroom
tops ; dust with granulated sugar colored pink and dry in the oven.
When ready, place together in pairs with a maraschino cherry in the
center.
MARASCHINO BIRDS
These are laid out with a plain tube on papered baking sheets.
First force out the body of the bird ; then add the head and wings ;
place a half currant on each side for the eyes. It is not necessary to
make too elaborate a job of them, as they usually retail at a moderate
price, 50 cents per dozen. Bake in the usual way.
COFFEE MERINGUES
This is a little different mix from the usual meringue and is made
by boiling a strong infusion of coffee with the sugar as follows: Place
5 pounds of granulated sugar dissolved in a bare 1% pints of water on
the stove ; boil to a temperature of 246 degrees by the sugar thermo-
meter. Now add !/2 pint of strong coffee extract with a little caramel
coloring and boil again to 246 degrees; then remove from the stove.
Beat up a good quart of egg w r hites with % pound granulated sugar to
a still foam and add boiling sugar. Lay out in small oval shapes on wet
boards as for meringue shells ; dry out a little in the oven. Then place
together in pairs and retail at 90 cents per pound.
COCOANUT MERINGUES
Lay out the regular meringue mixture in small bulbs on wet pre-
pared boards and sprinkle with coarse cocoanut; brown a little in the
oven and place together in pairs and retail at 90 cents per pound.
MERINGUE KISSES
Pretty well all small meringue goods come under this heading, and
there are quite a number of ways of finishing them. Around the holi-
days colored sugars are used quite a little ; the meringues are usually
dusted with this before baking, but care should be taken to have the
sugars quite dry before doing so. It is best to rub the colors through
the sugar. Then spread out on a baking sheet and allow to stand in a
warm place over night before using. Chocolate powder or cocoa is also
used for dusting meringue fingers, etc., and add to the variety. To the
man of an original turn of mind a very comprehensive variety can be
prepared.
An idea prevalent in a number of bakeries is that the only possible
way of laying out kisses is on the greased and dusted pan; to those I
Avould say try the brown straw paper for a change. The disadvantages
attaching to the use of the greased and dusted pan are, firstly, no real
gripping surface as the meringue is forced through the bag; secondly,
in the matter of economy. I'm sure these two things justify any baker
in making a change. Give it a trial. Prices in different localities
56 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
vary considerably for these goods, but would sell by the dozen when-
ever possible, allowing at least 60 per cent over cost of materials, as
there is quite a little work to goods of this description.
MERINGUE PASTRIES
Line some small patty pans (2y 2 inches in diameter) with good
short paste made from the following : 1% pounds flour, 14 pound corn
flour, 2 ounces sugar, 1 pound butter, little water. Rub the butter into
the flour and corn flour, make a bay; add the sugar and sufficient
water to make into a stiff paste without overworking. Roll out to
about % inch thickness and cut out. Place a spot of jelly in the cen-
ter of each and fill with a mixture made by moistening some <;ood cake
crumbs with cream and milk ; make it about the consistency of very stiff
cake batter. Flavor well with vanilla. Bake in a moderate to hot oven.
When cold with bag and l /2 inch plain tube pipe on each a bulb of
Italian meringue entirely covering the filling; bring this up into a
point. Now place in a hot closet or cool oven for about an hour to dry.
When cold dip each one in chocolate fondant or water icing; hold
them upside down for the purpose, dip half way and let drain a second
or so that the icing does not run when placed in their original position.
Decorate with a little chopped pistachio nut on top and a little chopped
roasted almonds around the base.
CHERRY MERINGUE
Break 10 large whites into a clean bowl, beat to a stiff froth,
then mix in gradually 2 pounds powdered sugar. With bag and small
plain tube lay out in oval shapes on boards previously soaked in water ;
dust well with sugar and bake in very cool oven. When ready remove
from the boards and sandwich in pairs by placing between them two or
three whole glace cherries mixed with a little red jelly.
Dubosh Layer Cake
CHAPTER 11.
HIGH GRADE LAYERS
AT.MOND LAYERS
One and one-half quarts yolks, 1^2 quarts eggs, 4 pounds granu-
lated sugar, 2 pounds browned almonds ground up very fine, l 1 /^
pounds flour, iy 2 pounds butter. Place the eggs, yolks and sugar in a
copper kettle and warm through on the stove ; beat up very light, as for
sponge cake ; then mix in carefully the almonds and flour ; lastly add
the butter, which has been previously melted over the fire ; fill in the
square forms until just level with the edge of the pan. Bake in a mod-
erate oven.
CHOCOLATE LAYERS
Four quarts whole eggs, 4 quarts yolks, 11 pounds granulated
sugar, 4 pounds ground walnuts or macaroon crumbs, 3 pounds of flour,
4 pounds butter. Melt the chocolate and the butter separately ; then
mix together gradually stirring all the time. To this add two quarts
warm water, mixing by the same slow process. Warm the eggs, yolks
and sugar over the fire and place on the machine and beat up as for
sponge cake. When light add the chocolate, etc., and stir in carefully ;
lastly add the flour and ground walnuts ; fill in the square forms until
level with the edge, using a pie plate to avoid handling the mix as
much as possible. Bake in moderate oven and turn bottom side up on
coming from the oven.
GINGER LAYERS
Three pounds six ounces su<rar (powdered), 3 pounds butter, l 1 /^
pounds lard, 46 eggs, 6 pounds flour, l 1 /^ pints molasses, % ounce soda,
5 pounds preserved ginger, 1 ounce ginger, 1 ounce cinnamon; cream
together the butter, lard and sugar; add the eggs, gradually beating
well after each addition ; add the molasses and spices ; mix well ; lastly
add the flour, baking soda and the preserved ginger chopped fairly
fine ; mix through without overworking ; fill in the round layer cake
forms until almost level. Bake in moderate oven.
YELLOW LAYERS
Nine pounds soft flour, 6 ounces baking powder, 6 pounds pow-
dered sugar, 3^2 pounds butter, 21/2 quarts of yolks and whole eggs, 2 l / 2
quarts milk ; cream together the butter and sugar ; add the eggs gradu-
ally ; place in the milk and lastly add the flour and baking powder ; do
not overwork the mix ; fill in the round layer cake forms a little more
than half way. Bake in sound oven. Scale 11 ounces each before bak-
ing.
58
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
Chocolate Devil's Food
Cherry Cream Layer
DEVIL'S FOOD
Nine pounds sugar, 4 l / 2 pounds butter, li/> pounds almond paste,
2V4 quarts eggs, 12y 2 pounds flour, 3 ounces soda, 4^ quarts milk,
3% pounds chopped walnuts, 4 l /2 pounds granulated sugar, iy 2 pints
water, 2*4 pounds bitter chocolate. Place the -iy 2 pounds granulated
sugar and l l / 2 pints water together and bring to the boil over the fire ;
take off the stove and to this add 2V4 pounds bitter chocolate. Now
prepare the mix. Cream together the butter, sugar and almond paste ;
add the eggs gradually, beating well after each addition; mix in the
chocolate syrup, then the milk and lastly flour, baking soda and
chopped walnuts. Scale at 12 ounces into the round layer cake pans.
Bake in moderate oven.
WHITE LAYERS
Seven pounds flour, 7 pounds sugar, 2 l / 2 pounds butter, 2 ounces of
baking powder, l l / 2 quarts milk, 2 quarts egg whites; cream together
the butter and sugar ; add the egg whites gradually, with the last two
additions of egg whites throw in about l / 2 pound flour each time. Place
in the milk and mix in the flour and baking powder. Scale at 14
ounces into square and round layers. Bake in moderate oven.
FRUIT LAYERS
One and one-half pounds almond paste, 1 pound chopped almonds
(not too fine), % pound chopped preserved fruit (pineapple, cherries,
etc.), 1 pound sugar, 10 yolks, 10 whites, 3 ounces flour, zest of 3 lem-
ons, zest of 2 oranges; cream the almond paste, sugar and yolks to-
gether; mix in the fruit, flour, juice and zest of oranges and lemons;
lastly add the whites beaten to a stiff foam ; mix through lightly. This
mix will make six square layers. Bake in cool oven.
This layer is used more as a filler than for anything else ; it has a
fine flavor and sandwiched between two layers of any of the foregoing
mixtures with a fruit icing on top makes a layer that cannot be sur-
passed for quality and appearance.
BUTTER SPONGE LAYERS
For butter sponge layers weigh down the following : 8 pounds
granulated sugar, 6 quarts eggs, 2*/ 2 quarts yolks, 6 pounds flour, 3
HIGH GRADE LAYER CAKES
59
pounds butter^ Place the eggs, yolks and sugar in a copper kettle and
warm through on the stove; place in the machine and beat up as for
sponge cake ; when light mix in the flour lightly and lastly add the
butter, which has been previously melted on the stove ; fill in square
layer pans level with the top, using a pie plate for the purpose to avoid
handling the mix as much as possible. Bake in moderate oven.
CHOCOLATE WALNUT LAYERS
For chocolate walnut layers sandwich one square white layer
between the chocolate layers, using the chocolate walnut filling. Mask
the sides with a little meringue and dip in coarsely chopped walnuts.
Ice the top with chocolate fondant and divide into 16 squares with lines
of yellow fondant, as shown in cut. Place half a walnut within each
square.
PUNCH LAYERS
Sandwich three of the yellow sheet layers together with the punch
filling. Mask the sides with meringue and press into the sides roasted
flaked almonds. Frost the top with white fondant and with bag and
star tube make a neat border, etc., using the punch filling.
Punch Layer Cake
Chocolate ^'alnut Layer
LEMON LAYERS
Take 2^ yellow layers for one lemon layer. Spread a layer of
lemon filling on one whole layer, place the half layer on top of this and
give another layer of filling. Place a whole layer on top. Mask the
sides with meringue and dip in coarsely chopped pecan nuts that have
been partly roasted in the oven. Frost the top with a frosting made
from XXXX sugar and the juice and zest of lemons. Place a ring of
half pecan nuts around the edge. This makes a most delicious eating
layer. Place in sufficient filling so that the layer will shake lightly
when it is touched.
CHOCOLATE GINGER LAYERS
Take three of the ginger layers and sandwich together with rasp-
berry jam. Wash with apricot jelly and frost with chocolate fondant.
Place two or three pieces of preserved ginger on top.
60 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
PECAN LAYERS
For the pecan layers coarsely chopped pecan nuts should be added
to the white layer cake mix, not a large quantity, but just sufficient to
shoM T a nice face when cut. Scale the same as for plain white layers.
Sandwich three of the pecan layers together with marshmallow fla-
vored with a little kirschwasser. Spread a little on the sides and on
top. Place away in the icebox for a while to set firm. Frost the whole
with white fondant to which has been added a little kirschwasser and
sieve over the top finely ground pecan nuts that have been roasted a
little in the oven. This makes a nice compact layer, clean to handle.
Of course, in localities where 80 or 90 cents is the highest price it is
possible to obtain for a layer of this class, vanilla flavor should be used
in the place of kirschwasser.
CHERRY LAYERS
Sandwich one square white layer between two square yellow sheet
layers using the cherry marshmallow as a filler. Spread a little of the
filling on top and sides. Cover the whole with fondant and place two
cherries at each corner, with strips of angelica for stalks. Another
way is to press roasted flaked almonds into the sides, frost the top
with white fondant and finish in the same manner as when iced plain
white. (See Plate 6.)
MIXED FRUIT LAYERS
Sandwich one of the fruit layers from the fruit layer cake mix
between two of the yellow sheet layers, using raspberry jam as the
filler. Mask the sides with meringue and press in white flaked
almonds. Frost the top with a fruit icing made by mixing some coarsely
chopped pineapple and cherries through the white fondant. Place a
ball of the chopped fruit at each corner of layer and make a neat bor-
der of the punch filling. To make the balls of chopped fruit roll be-
tween the hands to make into ball shape and turn onto coarse granu-
lated sugar. Place in position with a little white fondant to make them
adhere to the layer.
'LADY BALTIMORE LAYERS
For the Lady Baltimore layers mix together 3 pounds figs (chopped
fairly fine), 3 pounds Sultana raisins, 3 pounds of roasted pecan nuts,
coarsely chopped. Make some meringue with 3 quarts whites, 14
pounds powdered sugar and vanilla flavor. When made, mix the dry
ingredients through. Take three of the round white layers, spread a
good layer of the filling between each layer and cover the top and sides
to the extent of l / inch in thickness. Place in the oven until the edges
are tinted a pale brown.
PREMIER LAYERS
For premier layers sandwich one of the yellow sheet layers between
two square chocolate layers, using the punch filling as a filler. Trim
the sides, brush over with hot apricot jelly and frost with chocolate
fondant. Execute a little design on top with the punch filling, using a
star tube.
HIGH GRADE LAYER CAKES
61
ORANGE COCOANUT CAKES
Grate the zest from one to two oranges, according to size ; mix this
through some freshly beaten meringue. Take three of the white layers
arid sandwich them together with orange meringue, with a little freshly
grated cocoanut mixed through. Cover the whole with orange mer-
ingue and press freshly grated cocoanut into the sides and on top. Or-
ange marshmallow is sometimes used in preference to the meringue, as
this will keep soft between the layers for a much longer time than
when using meringue. However, either will make a delightful and
tasty confection.
BANANA TARTS
For banana tarts take a single layer cake, one sealed at 10 to 12
ounces, from a nice layer cake mixture ; slice in two and cut some nice
firm bananas lengthwise and place on half the layer ; use two bananas
to each layer. Brush over the bananas with a fairly heavy syrup and
spread over a thin layer of cream. Place the other half layer on top
and spread a little cream around the sides ; dip in roasted flaked
almonds. Put a good layer of cream on top and pipe on a neat border ;
place half a banana, divided lengthwise on top with a cherry and an-
gelica. Brush over the banana with strong syrup (this prevents the
banana from going dark). They are a very classy looking article and
retail from 45 cents to 50 cents each.
PINEAPPLE SNOW CAKE
For pineapple snow cake take three of the white layers, drain the
liquid from a can of preserved pineapple and chop up the pineapple
fairly thin. Spread a layer of the chopped pineapple on one of the
white layers and over this spread a thin layer of meringue. Proceed
in this way until the three layers are in position. Cover the whole with
a layer of meringue about 14 inch in thickness, dust lightly with pow-
dered sugar and place in the oven until the edges are tinted a light
brown.
Banana Tart
82
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
Pastry Charlottes
Spanish Puffs
Opera Pastries
Cream Baskets
Matinee Creams
Punch Buns
CHAPTER 12.
CREAM GOODS
The following recipes are for exceedingly choice goods and should
be a welcome addition to the list of cream goods of any high class firm.
The list also includes recipes for ordinary goods for the benefit of
those who have had but little experience along these lines. They should
prove beneficial to the trade at large.
SPONGE CASING FOR CHARLOTTE RUSSE
There are several good methods of making the sponge casing for
charlotte russe. In quite a few high class stores it is customary to
make use of stale lady fingers for the purpose, but where a large quan-
tity of charlottes are prepared this is hardly practical. For casing No.
1 weigh down the following 1 quart egg whites, % quart yolks, 1 pound
granulated sugar, 1 pound powdered sugar, 2 pounds flour (half strong,
half soft). Beat the whites to a stiff foam and add the granulated
sugar gradually, beating well after each addition; add the yolks and
beat 2 or 3 seconds more. Now stir through the powdered sugar with
the egg whip, and lastly add the flour; mix through lightly with the
hand. Fill the bag containing a lady finger tube with the mixture
and lay out in 3 strips on paper baking sheet. Do this by forcing the
mixture out lady finger shape, but close together and about 4 inches
wide. When baked, cut the strips down the center and length, accord-
ing to the size of the cups. In this way the charlottes have the appear-
ance of being lined with lady fingers without all the trouble attached
to the making and use of same. For those who have a large trade in
charlottes, would recommend the use of sheets, as these can be piled
011 top of each other and several hundred linings cut at one time. In a
large bakery I operated seven years ago we made quite a quantity of
charlottes each day and to do away with the annoying difference in
thickness of the sheets in places, a trouble hard to avoid when spread-
ing with a palette knife, we had a tube made, 5 inches long and i/j
inch wide ; this was attached in the same manner as the small rubber
bags and decorating tubes. In this way a ribbon of the mixture was
forced out, much in the same way as the tubes of dental cream. This did
away with all spreading ; the sheets were the same thickness, and what
is more important than anything in a mixture of this kind, more espe-
cially a large one, it had the advantage of speed. A mixture run out.
with the tube could be done in about half the time it would take to
spread with a bowl knife, and using the tube one was assured of
having the sheets of a uniform thickness.
For casing No. 2 weigh down the following: 2 quarts eggs, 4^
pounds granulated sugar, 2^/2 pounds flour (half strong, half soft).
Place the eggs and sugar in a copper kettle ?nd warm over the stove.
Place in the machine and. beat until light and thick, then mix through
64 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
the flour lightly with the hand. Proceed in the same way as for Cas-
ing No. 1. Bake in fairly hot oven.
PLAIN WHIPPED CREAM
For assisting cream to retain its firmness after whipping, gela-
tine should be used in the proportion of l / 2 pound to 5 gallons of cream.
The gelatine should not be used too warm or too thick. When using a
good brand of sheet gelatine a pound should be dissolved in l 1 /^ to 2
quarts of water. This should be thoroughly dissolved by placing in an
outer pan containing boiling water, and whatever quantity is needed
should be partly cooled off and the vanilla mixed with it before adding
to the cream. For sweetening purposes the usual quantity of sugar al-
lowed is 4 ounces to the quart, but this is entirely a matter of taste.
CHARLOTTE BUSSE
Line some charlotte russe cases with sponge sheet or lady fingers.
Fill a bag containing a IVk-inch plain tube or a large star tube and pipe
on a pyramid of whipped cream, bring to a point at the top. Retail
at 5 cents each.
DOUBLE CHARLOTTES
Take a small amount of whipped cream and make into a light
paste with some slightly warm melted bitter chocolate ; add this to the
bulk. Now line some charlotte russe cups as for plain charlottes ; fill
about two-thirds full with whipped cream, using a star tube, then top
off each one with a little of the chocolate whipped cream. The above
method of mixing the chocolate whipped cream is the only way in
which any degree of success is assured. If added to the bulk without
first making a paste the warm chocolate on contact with the cold cream
will set in small, hard lumps. Retail at 90 cents per dozen.
CHARLOTTES A LA CARDINAL
This is a very high class charlotte, but is rather a tricky mixture
to work out successfully at the first attempt. However, I hope this
won't deter any readers from attempting same, of course providing he
has a trade that .will stand for the price. Line some charlotte cups
with lady fingers. Now take 2 quarts of cream, have your assistant
beat this up, while you prepare the following: place 10 yolks of eggs
in a small bowl, add to this x /2 pound sugar and beat together until
fairly light, then add 1 gill of melted gelatine (proportion explained in
whipped cream). Pour this mixture into the yolks of eggs gradually
beating well while adding ; beat for a few seconds more, but on no ac-
count let it get too thick. Of course, this depends upon the temperature
of the bakery, as the gelatine setting will thicken the mixture. Then
add to the whipped cream. The mixture should be just thick enough
to pour into the whipped cream, but do not let it get above the pouring
stage or the resultant cream will be very disappointing. Fill in the
same way as for charlotte russe. Retail at 10 cents each.
LARGE CHARLOTTES
Large charlottes are usually prepared from large sponge cakes
hollowed out, then filled with cream. The best method of preparing
CREAM GOODS 65
these charlottes is to use lange du chat biscuits or wafers, made into
finger shapes around the sides. These are usually held in position by
the use of a little butter cream, then when the charlotte is finished
stretch a band of pale colored silk ribbon around the sides and finish
with a large bow. In this way additional strength is given the casing,
otherwise with such a soft and absorbent casing as sponge cake the
charlotte would fall to pieces in a very short time. The filling of cream
can be rounded off dome shape and further decorated with glace
fruit, etc.
A very effective way of finishing a large charlotte is to frost a
piece of charlotte casing with pink icing. When dry, cut into diamond
shapes, etc., and if necessary decorate with a little royal icing, using a
paper cone cut very fine. Arrange these small pieces on top and use a
wide band of pale pink ribbon for the sides.
PUNCH CREAM BUNS
For punch cream buns make up a fairly rich fermented dough, a
dough with about ~y% pound sugar, l / 2 pound butter and 4 or 5 eggs to
the quart, or if only a few are to be made for a start, make some of the
ordinary bun dough a little richer by the addition of a few eggs. Scale
3 ounces for two buns. Hand up round, pan and wash with strong egg
glaze, a mixture of yolks and eggs, and give good proof before baking.
When cool, split almost in two and dip in a punch previously prepared
from the following : 1 gallon of plain syrup, juice of 2 oranges and 1
lemon, rum flavoring. Bring the syrup to the boil, add the orange
and lemon juice and rum flavoring; allow to boil. The buns should
be just put in and taken out or they will absorb too much liquor. When
cool, open and fill with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with
vanilla. Sprinkle a little pistachio nut on the cream showing between
the bun. The punch will keep for some time and should be warmed
each day before using. Retail at 90 cents a dozen.
SAVARINS
For Savarins make up a dough as for punch cream buns, but use 6
or 7 eggs to the quart and make the dough soft enough to put through
a bag and tube. A genuine Savarin mixture is given below, which can
be used if preferred. They can be made any size, the molds are simi-
lar in shape to angel cake molds, with the exception of the tube
being wider, not so deep and closed at the top. When the dough is ripe,
fill the molds barely half way. Give good proof and bake in fairly hot
oven. When cool soak in punch as for punch buns, and fill with
whipped and sweetened cream, to which has been added the yolks of
a few eggs; sprinkle a little chopped pistachio nut on top. Large Sav-
arins can be made in the same way, but should be decorated with alm-
onds, cut lengthwise, and stuck into the side with a little fruit on top.
SAVARIN MIXTURE
The genuine French Savarin mixture is made from the following:
warm up a pint of milk, into this dissolve 1 ounce of yeast and make
into sponge with about 1 pound of flour. Allow to stand in a warm
place to get a start. Make up another dough with 2 pounds flour and
15 eggs; beat these together thoroughly. To this add 2 pounds butter
66 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
gradually, and finish making the dough with 15 eggs (making 30 in
all) and 1/2 pound sugar. When made, add the sponge and work
through. This dough can stand all night in a cool place, and should be
beaten back before being used up the next morning. It is only neces-
sary for the sponge to get a start, but plenty of work should be given
the dough at all stages of manufacturing.
BANANA TARTS
For banana tarts take a single layer cake, one scaled at 10 to 12
ounces from a nice layer cake mixture ; slice in two and cut some nice
firm bananas lengthwise and place on half the layer; use 2 bananas to
each layer. Brush over the bananas with a fairly heavy syrup and
spread over a thin layer of cream. Place the other half layer on top
and spread a little cream around the sides ; dip in roasted flaked alm-
onds. Put a good layer of cream on top and pipe on a neat border:
place half a banana, divided lengthwise, on top, with a cherry and
angelica. Brush over the banana with strong syrup. (This prevents
the banana from going dark.) They are a very classy article and retail
from 40 to 50 cents each.
CREAM BASKETS
Take some cup-shaped cakes and slice a little off the bottom to
make them stand level. Now take a pointed knife and cut a round out
of the top, digging down into the cake and saving the piece cut out for
the lid of the basket. Brush the sides with apricot jelly and roll in
roasted flaked almonds. With bag and plain tube pipe in a big bulb of
whipped cream, bring it well up and do not get too near the sides ; cut
the lid in half and place in position so that the center is lower than the
sides; sieve over lightly a little XXXX sugar and place in position a
handle cut from angelica. Retail at 90 cents per dozen.
PINEAPPLE TARTS
Proceed in the same way as for banana tarts, using canned chopped
pineapple, with the liquid drained therefrom, in the place of bananas.
Retail at 40 to 50 cents each.
MATINEE CREAMS
For matinee creams take some ordinary sized cream puffs, force
in some whipped cream, using a bag and plain tube. Frost the top with
maple fondant, then brush the sides with apricot jelly and press in
roasted stale macaroon crumbs. Fill a paper cone with maple fondant
and describe circles on the top, gradually working out from the cen-
ter. Before being allowed to dry sprinkle in the center a few coarsely
chopped pecan nuts which have been previously roasted in the oven.
If pecan nuts are not available use coarsely chopped walnuts. Retail
at 90 cents per dozen.
OPERA PASTRIES
This is a very delicate pastry and is a desirable addition to the
variety of goods prepared to serve in the coffee parlor or tea room.
Take a baked strip of pastry as used for Napoleons (about 4^/ 2 to 5
inches wide), spread over a thin layer of raspberry jam, and on the
CREAM GOODS 67
top of this place a strip of light sponge sheet the same width and length
of the pastry. Now fill the bag containing a large plain tube with
whipped cream and force out two or three strips on top of the sponge
sheet. Round this off nicely with a bowl knife, then cover the whole
with a thin layer of meringue. This can be done by using a bag with
a medium sized star tube and piping the lines close together running
from end to end. The quicker way of putting on the meringue is to
use the special tube as mentioned for laying out the sponge sheets; in
this way a ribbon of meringue is forced out sufficient to cover the strip
at one operation. Now transfer the finished strip to a flat piece of
wood about the same width and length. The idea is to get a little
brown color on the meringue by holding it near a strong flame. Where
there are open furnaces to the ovens, and coke or coal is used, this is
an easy matter; it is only necessary to hold in the heat two or three
seconds, as the meringue quickly colors. A heater such as candy
makers use is quite all right for this purpose in case it is not handy to
reach the furnace. Cut into sections 1^2 inches wide and retail at 60
cents to $1 per dozen. This is a splendid eating pastry and has a very
high class appearance. When packing great care should be exercised,
as the pastries have nothing strong in the way of casing.
BOSTON CREAM PIES
Allow 11/2 layer cakes, layers scaled at 8 ounces, into the pan, for
each pie. Split and sandwich the whole layer with yellow custard
cream. On top of this spread a thick layer of whipped cream. Now
divide the half layer in two and place on in the same way as for cream
baskets. Dust rather heavily with XXXX sugar and mark out a little
design on top with a point of a knife. Retail at 30 to 40 cents each.
SNOWBALLS
For snowballs take some good shaped doughnuts, preferably those
a few hours old. Split almost in two and force in a large bulb of
whipped and sweetened cream. Dust on top with XXXX sugar. Re-
tail at 40 cents per dozen. It is surprising what nice eating this cake
makes. Of course the doughnuts should be thoroughly cooked, and at
the same time be a light brown in color, and at least half a day old to
insure their cutting firm and not being in the least doughy. Very
few people after eating one would guess they had been eating a humble
doughnut so effectively disguised. Try them.
ORANGE CREAMS
For orange cream casing weigh down the following: 1 pound
sugar, 2 pounds flour, 1^2 quarts egg whites, 1 bare quart of yolks.
Place the whites in the machine and beat up fairly stiff. Then add the
sugar gradually as for meringue. When all the sugar is beaten in add
the yolks and run on slow speed for two or three seconds. Remove
from the machine and mix through the flour lightly with the hand.
With bag and %-inch plain tube lay out on papered baking sheets
twice the size of an egg. Bake in moderate oven until fairly dry.
When baked scoop out the centers with a sharp knife and place two
together, using a little apricot jelly to make them adhere. Brush over
with hot apricot jelly, and frost with fondant through which has been
68 . MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
mixed the grated rind of two or three oranges; sprinkle a little chopped
pistachio nut on top ; when dry make a small hole in the side, and with
bag and a small plain tube force in sufficient whipped cream to fill.
WHIPPED CREAM TORTE
Weigh down the following mixture: l l / 2 quarts of whole eggs and
yolks, 2 pounds granulated sugar, 1 pound roasted almonds (ground
fine), % pound f lour,' % pound butter. Place the yolks, eggs and
sugar in a copper kettle and warm over the stove ; remove and beat
until light and thick, then add the almonds and flour mixed together.
When partly mixed add the butter, which has been previously melted
in the oven ; lay out in the regular torte hoops. For $1 size these usu-
ally measure 8^2 inches in diameter; the $1.50, about 10 inches; the $2,
11 inches, and so on. Paper the hoops and do not use any grease on
the sides ; spread to 1 inch in thickness and bake in medium oven.
When baked carefully remove the skin (the top) of the torte with a
sharp knife, taking care not to break; slide on to cake round and ice
thinly with white frosting. Now hollow out the center of the torte
and fill with whipped cream. Remove the center of the frosted top
with a round cutter 1^ inches in diameter, then divide into 12 sections
for a $1 torte, 16 for $1.50 torte, and so on. Decorate with a cone of
royal icing cut fine and glace fruit. Place on a board and lace paper,
then spread a little whipped cream around the sides and press roasted
flaked almonds into the sides.
HAZELNUT CREAM TORTE
Take two of the baked torten, as used for whipped cream torten.
For this purpose these are best hollowed out by removing the cake in a
circle ; hollow out */2 inch from the sides and leave a circle of cake in
the center of each, then w r hen the two are placed together there is
plenty of support in the center, as the two small circles left in each
torte should meet, and in this way the pressure of the top does not lie
on the cream. Fill with w r hipped cream through which has been mixed
finely ground hazelnuts. For the side pin out a piece of marzipan
(this is prepared with y 2 pound almond paste, y 2 pound sugar, suffi-
cient whites to make a stiff paste, and a dash of rum flavoring),
to % inch in thickness, pass over a fluted rolling pin, then cut into a
long strip wide enough to cover the sides of the torte and reach half an
inch above the top ; pinch the top of the marzipan all around with a
pair of paste nippers. Frost the top thinly with white fondant and
place just inside the border a ring of filbert nuts previously dipped in
caramel sugar ; intersperse with small diamond-shaped pieces of angel-
ica. Place a little cut glace fruit in the center, and if a high priced
torte, further decorate with a cone of royal icing cut very fine.
PASTRY CHARLOTTES
For pastry charlottes pin out a piece of straight puff pastry to %
inch in thickness ; cut into pieces 3 inches square. Splash the center
with a little egg wash and fold the four corners to the center. Place
onto a pan lightly splashed w r ith water and bake until crisp in moder-
ate oven. When cool dust with XXXX su<?ar; make a hole in the top
of each with the forefinger and force in some whipped cream, using a
bag and tube. Pipe a pyramid of whipped cream on top, using a star
tube ; finished with a little chopped pistachio nut on top. Retail at 90
cents per dozen.
CHAPTER 13.
LOAF CAKES
VAN DUSEN CAKES
Originated on the Pacific Coast this cake is a great favorite. Light,
fluffy with fine keeping qualities it is a good seller and a fine stock
cake, as it is particularly desirable to serve at teas and with ice cream.
It is best when baked in a gas or electric oven where it can be given a
"flash" heat to start and the oven gradually cooled to permit of
thorough baking. This cake is usually baked in one and one and a half
pound sizes. Some pans used are oblong in shape and also round as
used for angel cake with a center tube. To prepare the pans cut paper
and cover the bottom of each pan, leaving the sides free. This is all
that is necessary in the preparation of the pan. No grease is used on
the sides for the reason that the cake is very light and would be apt to
shrink quite a lot if greased. For the yellow Van Dusen use : 2 pounds
butter, 31/2 pounds sugar, 5 pounds flour, iy 2 quarts yolk, iy 2 quarts
milk, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ounce soda. Cream the butter and
sugar together; add the yolks gradually, beating well after each addi-
tion ; add the milk in which has been dissolved the soda, add a little ex-
tract of vanilla, then the flour and cream of tartar. Mix thoroughly,
taking care not to overwork. This should make 16 pounds of cake.
Bake in moderate oven and when coming from the oven turn upside
down and allow to get quite cold before cutting from the pans. Retail
at so much per pound.
WHITE VAN DUSEN
For white Van Dusen use the same mixture as for yellow with the
exception of using whites in the place of yolks. Rub the butter
with 2 pounds of sugar, keeping 1^ pounds of the sugar back. The
whites should then be beaten up and the l l / 2 pounds of sugar added
gradually making a light meringue. This should then be beaten into
the creamed butter and sugar, adding about one-third each time ; add
the milk and soda with a little vanilla extract and almond oil, then the
flour and cream of tartar. Just mix to clear. Proceed in the same waj r
as for yellow Van Dusen. Retail at so much per pound.
DOROTHY CAKES
Four pounds sugar, 3 pounds butter, 6 pounds flour, 6 pounds of
chopped cherries, 1% quarts yolks and whole eggs, iy 2 pints milk, 1
ounce cream of tartar, y 2 ounce soda. Put together in the usual way
for cakes of this kind. Scale at 15 ounces each into oval shaped pans
and bake in medium oven. "When cold frost on top with a nice white
icing through which has been mixed some chopped cherries, angelica,
etc. Retail at so much each.
70
YELLOW FLORENCE CAKES
Nine pounds sugar, 4y 2 pounds butter, 2 l / 2 quarts yolks, 1 quart
whole eggs, 10 pounds flour, 9 ounces of baking powder, 3 quarts milk.
Put together in the usual way and scale at 1 pound into oblong shaped
forms, preferably those with wire loops on the corners, so that they
can be turned upside down when coming from the oven. Don't grease
the pans, lay a piece of paper in the bottom. Let stand until quite cool
before cutting out. Retail at so much each, according to locality.
DUNDEE CAKES
Six and a quarter pounds sugar, 61/it pounds butter, l / 2 pound al-
mond paste, 72 eggs, 9^ pounds flour, 10 pounds raisins, 3% pounds
currants, 1% pounds of orange and lemon peel, l / 2 pound citron, IV 2
pounds of chopped almonds, vanilla and almond flavor. Put together
in the usual way, the fruit and nuts before the flour. Scale at l 1 /^
pounds into papered pans or hoops measuring 5 inches in diameter and
21/2 inches high. Level off with the hand dipped in milk and sprinkle
over chopped almonds. Retail at so much each. Will make 16 cakes.
ENGLISH MADEIRA CAKES
Two and a half pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter, 24 eggs, 3*4 pounds
flour, y% ounce baking powder, vanilla flavor. Cream together the but-
ter and sugar, add the eggs gradually, beating well after each addition,
then flavor with a little egg coloring and lastly flour. To obtain the
cauliflower top so much admired in cakes of this kind allow to stand
in the bowl after mixing for two or three minutes, then beat together
again. Scale off in papered hoops as used in Dundee cakes, place two
thin slices of citron peel on top of each and dust with powdered sugar.
Will make 10 cakes. Bake in medium oven and retail at so much each,
according to locality.
IDEAL GINGER CAKE
For ideal ginger cake weigh down the following: iy 2 pounds but-
ter, 1 pound of brown sugar, 20 eggs, 2y 2 pounds Sultanas, l 1 /^ ounces
cinnamon, 3 ounces ginger, 4^2 pounds soft flour, 1 ounce cream of tar-
tar, y 2 ounce bi-carbonate of soda, 4*4 ounces molasses. Cream together
the butter and sugar until light, and eggs three at a time, mix in the
molasses and Sultanas, and lastly flour through which has been sifted
the chemicals and spices.
This cake can be made any size from 1 to 4 pounds. Bake in mod-
erate oven, about 300 degrees. The cake should not be disturbed until
thoroughly set ; it will take an hour for a cake weighing 1 pound and
about 14 hour for each pound over. The cake when baked will have a
very smooth surface, with a slightly hollowed center. This is not due
to any fault in baking or mixing, but is the nature of the cake. When
cut it will be found to have a perfect texture. Retail at so much a
pound.
SMALL POUND CAKE
This is a pound cake mixture baked in small hoops an inch in
height and an inch in diameter. The hoops should be papered with
bands 2 inches high and placed fairly close together on a papered bak-
LOAF CAKES 71
ing sheet. For the mixture use l 1 /^ pounds butter, l l / 2 pounds sugar,
1% pounds strong flour, 15 eggs, y 2 pound currants. Cream together
the butter, sugar and eggs in the usual way, add the currants and fla-
vor with vanilla. Mix in the flour. With bag and Vfc inch plain tube
fill in each one a little over the top of the hoops about lyi inches in
depth. Bake in oven about 400 degrees. Should make 15 dozen small
pound cakes. Retail at so much per pound.
VANILLA FIG CAKE
Weigh down the following: 1% pounds butter, 2 pounds sugar,
3 J /4 pounds soft flour, 12 ounces soda flour, 12 eggs, 1 pint of milk
(good measure), 2 pounds figs (chopped), 12 ounces cherries. Beat
the butter and sugar to a light cream, flavor with vanilla extract, add
eggs a few at a time, mix in the fruit and milk, then the flour. Scale
off at 1 pound in square or oblong shaped pans and bake in moderate
oven, about 350 degrees. Retail at so much each.
ORIENT CAKE
One and a quarter pounds butter, l 1 /^ pounds powdered sugar, 2
pounds soft flour, 18 eggs, pinch of baking powder, flavor with cherry
essence, 1 pound preserved green gages, 14 pound pistachio nuts. Cream
the butter and sugar and add the eggs in the usual way. Mix in the
fruit (chopped but not too fine), nuts and flavor. Draw in the flour
and mix without overworking. Scale at 8 ounces and bake in oval
shaped pans. This makes a splendid eating cake and when cut the
fruit and nuts make a nice combination. Retail at so much each.
LEMON SANDWICH
Sixty eggs, 6% pounds granulated sugar, 6% pounds soft flour,
li/2 ounces cream of tartar, % ounce bicarbonate of soda, l 1 /^ pints
milk. Beat the eggs and sugar as for sponge cake. When the mix
is just about ready, pour in the milk and flavor with extract of lemon.
Take off the machine and mix the flour through lightly. Grease the
sides of four baking sheets and place a sheet of paper on the bottoms.
Divide the mixture equally between the four pans. Bake in oven 400
degrees. When cold spread two sheets with lemon custard and place a
sheet on top of each. Tee thinly on top with lemon fondant or water
icing. Retail at so much a portion.
LOAF SPONGE
Two hundred eggs, 13 pounds flour, 5 ounces cream of tartar, 2 l / 2
ounces soda, 3 quarts hot water, 18 pounds sugar, lemon oil flavoring.
Place the eggs and granulated sugar in the machine kettle and beat up
until light and thick. When almost ready add 1% quarts of the hot
water and continue beating for two or three minutes. Stop the ma-
chine, turn the mix into a bowl and stir through the remaining 1%
quarts of hot water in which the soda has been dissolved. Now mix
through the flour lightly, through which has been sieved the cream of
tartar. The pans for this mixture do not need greasing , just wash in
hot water after each baking and use dry. Fill into various shaped
forms half way, place on baking sheets and bake in medium oven. As
they come from the oven turn upside down onto papered baking sheets
dusted lightly with flour.
V2
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
SAMPLES OF POUND CAKE
CHAPTER 14
POUND CAKE
It is generally admitted that this branch of the trade requires
greater knowledge and skill on the part of the operator than any other
phase of the business. Probably this is the reason there are
few really good pound cake bakers outside of the large factories. By
this statement i do not mean to imply that one cannot be a good baker
without making a fine line of goods of this class, but will say that bak-
ers who have not yet attempted anything in this line have missed one
of the most profitable and interesting branches of our trade. This
hardly applies to our neighbors over the border, as in most Canadian
stores a case of pound cake usually occupies a prominent position and
is more often than not of a very high grade.
I think the reason for this is the fact that Scotch and English
bakers predominate in the bakeries there and I think it will be gener-
ally admitted that they excel in this branch of cake baking. In the
average small bakery the principal trouble seems to be the heat of the
oven. A continuous baking throughout the day and night is usually
carried on and probably one or two attempts have been made with
small batches of pound cake, and no especial trouble having been taken
to see that the oven is cooled off sufficiently to attempt to bake pound
cake with any degree of success. I have been up against these troubles
myself in small bakeries, but have always found, providing a fair trial
is given this class of cake, it invariably catches on, and have found it
worth while to set an afternoon apart for the cooling down of the oven.
Of course, as the sale of pound cake increases week by week, as it should
do providing the proper stimulus is given the sale and the batches in-
crease in size, one can work with a much warmer oven than was neces-
sary in the first place. A sound oven at 300 degrees is the ideal oven
for pound cake. Of course the size of the blocks makes a difference,
but in my opinion some parts of the cake get a lot of unnecessary dry-
ing out if these exceed 6 pounds in weight. At this heat bake with
the oven partly open for the first 35 or 40 minutes to allow the cakes to
attain their full expansion ; from then on with everything closed up
tight. Should the oven be too hot the resultant cake is very close in
texture and has a huge crack on top, especially if the cake is of the
rich variety. This is caused by the heat of the oven forming a crust
before the cake has finished aerating ; then, as the interior gas expands
itself, it cracks the crust to escape. A part preventative of this, pro-
viding the oven is a little warm, is to give the cake plenty of protec-
tion from the bottom heat; give several thicknesses of paper and
double pan. An oven too cool is almost as bad as having an oven too
hot. There are very few bakeries of my acquaintance where this would
be likely to happen, still a few remarks along these lines will not be
out of place.
74 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
In the case of a cool oven a thick crust is one of the principal faults,
as shown in cut cake ; but whereas the cake baked in a hot oven does
not reach its fullest expansion, the reverse is the case using a cool oven.
After reaching its full expansion the cake settles in the center, due to
the center of the cake forming into a syrupy substance. This is more
often than not the case with rich fruit cake. Plain pound cake should
always be baked in a sound oven at the heat mentioned. Even if baked
in an oven the least bit cool, this will show in the color of the crumb,
which will have a slightly grayish tint instead of being clear and bright.
In a nutshell, the idea is to bake cakes as quickly as possible, at the
same time having the oven cool enough to allow the cakes to obtain
their fullest expansion.
Regarding raw materials in pound cake baking, if a fine grade of
finished goods is desired, the best of everything is necessary to obtain
these results.
Butter In my opinion butter or neutral fat (whichever is used) is
the most important ingredient of all; the texture of the cake really
depends upon the quality used, and this rule applies to all rich loaf
cakes in which the eggs are beaten into the creamed butter and sugar.
Have you ever noticed how some butter will take all the eggs which
should go into a pound cake mix without curdling, while another but-
ter of good flavor, and probably priced the same, will start to curdle
before half the eggs are in ? The curdling is due to an excess of water,
milk, curd, etc., in the butter; this water forms into a syrup with the
sugar, and after a certain quantity of eggs have been added the batter
will slide about and not amalgamate with the other ingredients. An-
other cause to which this can be attributed is the addition of the eggs
in large quantities and too frequently.
Sugar A good quality pow r dered sugar, not too fine, will produce
the best results. At the time of writing I am having a little trouble in
obtaining a straight sugar really suitable for this work, and a in using a
fine granulated sugar mixed with powdered sugar in equal proportions
with fine results. In cakes of cheaper grades the amount of sugar is
increased, as this also tends towards producing a cake of fine texture,
although care must be taken not to have the mixture too swe^t.
Flour Flour for use in pound cake baking should be of the soft
variety, but high grade. Quite a few good pound cake bakers advocate
the use of a little strong flour, but in my opinion this has a tendency
to give the cake too much "spring" in the center, and especially if the
oven is on the warm side. A cake with a nice flat top is the ideal cake :
therefore anything which is apt to bring about a reversal of this order
should not be added.
Eggs Eggs of fair quality should be used ; avoid cheap eggs for
this work, as they are usually weak and colorless and very stale. Where
the mixture calls for whites being beaten up do not beat too stiff, as
this state tends to toughen the mixture. While on the subject cf eggs
it will be well to note that there is an economical and a wasteful way of
breaking them. In cakes of this kind, when a fair sized batch will run
away with hundreds of eggs, the amount of eggs that are wasted by
throwing the shells as they are broken direct into the garbage can
amounts to almost a quart to every 300 eggs. If a can with a perfor-
ated bottom on legs is placed over a larger one to catch the drained
POUND CAKE 75
whites from the empty shells as they are thrown in, and situated in a
convenient corner, this waste should be effectively stopped.
Fruit Fruit should be cleaned thoroughly and, if exceptionally
dirty, washed and dried; look over for stalks and small stones. Good
fleshy fruit, which invariably possesses & good flavor, is tire right kind
to use. In the case of cherries, etc., w r hich sometimes carry an excess
of syrup, place on a wire or small sieve and immerse for a few seconds
in warm water. Do not allow to remain in the water but a few seconds
or the flavor of the fruit will be impaired. The reason for removing the
excess syrup is to prevent the fruit from sinking during baking. Citron
should be sliced to use in citron pound cake, and cut in small cubes
when used for dark or light mixed fruit cakes.
Flavors and Colors In flavoring cakes a common mistake is over-
doing it in this respect. Just sufficient to give it a delicate flavor is
all that is necessary. If good materials are used throughout, what is
the use of drowning the flavor with an extract? The flavor of good
butter and fruit is preferable to cheap extracts. Appearance has a
whole lot to do with the selling of pound cake and what pleases the eye
pleases the palate in this case. In all pound cake I would advise the
use of a little egg color. In medium heavy fruit cake, where a nice
golden brown colored crumb is desired, the cake should first be colored
with a little egg coloring, then toned down with a little "Black Jack"
(burnt sugar). Colors and flavorings should be added after the butter
and sugar are creamed.
Method of Mixing Quite a little of the ultimate success attained
in this branch of cake baking depends upon the method of mixing. For
rich cakes cream thoroughly the butter and sugar before adding the
eggs ; these should be in proportionate quantities to the size of the mix-
ture. Add the eggs as quickly as possible. As soon as the mixture is
smooth and clear, after an addition of eggs, follow with another, and
so on until all the eggs are in, then stop the machine without giving the
batter any unnecessary beating. The principle underlying the (.-eating
of mixture is to bring about a state of lightness by the creation of mul-
titudinous air cells. After the mixture reaches a certain stage these
have reached their fullest expansion and gradually break down. Most
bakers are familiar with mixtures that have reached the runny stage.
This is the most apparent fault in mixtures that have been beaten too
much ; the resultant cake is very coarse in texture and has an exceed-
ingly raw taste. Constant attention at the machine is therefore neces-
sary to prevent overdoing it in this respect, especially towards the end
of the beating. In making fruit cake stir in the fruit before the flour ;
by doing this any syrup adhering to the fruit is dissolved in the mix-
ture and the fruit effectively distributed. Mix in the flour with as lit-
tle stirring as possible. The best method of doing this is to lift the
mixture from the bottom and then the sides, rather than round and
round; just mix until clear. Scale into the frames as quickly as possi-
ble and fill the corners. When several varieties are required from one
mixture scale the quantities separate and mix in the fruit or nuts as
quickly as possible and with the minimum of work. A very good method
of mixing the cheaper grades of pound cake, several recipes of which
will be given, is to mix the fat with a small quantity of flour, free from
chemicals, in the machine, then beat at fast speed for a few minutes.
76 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
Stop the machine and pour in the milk, in which has been dissolved
the sugar, with the flavoring and coloring added ; stir for a few seconds,
then add the remainder of flour and baking powder. Let run on the
machine for two or three minutes until smooth. Cheap pound cake, if
carefully made by this method, should have a close and even texture.
Storage and Cutting of Pound Cake If not wanted for immediate
sale, wrap in grease-proof paper, the date marked on and store in a
tightly covered zinc lined box in which two or three holes have been
pierced to allow a little air to circulate. Allow the pound cake to get
quite cold before cutting, and instruct the store girls in the proper use
of the knife when cutting for sale. Too often the appearance of a nice
pound cake is spoiled by the wrong use of the knife in the inexperi-
enced store girl's hands. This is especially true of fruit cakes. The
right way is to force the knife through the cake with a sawing motion.
In this way a nice clean cut is obtained. The wrong way, and the usual
one, is to press the knife through the cake. Take note of the difference
in the appearance of the cut cake in the two methods and instruct the
girl of the right way.
PLAIN POUND CAKE
For the pound cake weigh down the following: 8 pounds butter,
8y 2 pounds sugar, 9 pounds soft flour, 4 quarts eggs, y 2 ounce baking
powder, egg color and vanilla flavoring. For nut, citron, fig, seed, etc..
add in the proportion of 1 pound to 6 pounds of batter.
GENOA CAKE
Three pounds butter, 3 pounds sugar, 414 pounds soft flour, %
pound almond paste, l 1 /^ quarts eggs, 2 pounds raisins, 1/2 pound citron
(cut in small tubes), y 2 pound cherries (halved), little egg color,
vanilla and almond oil for flavoring. Smooth with milk and sprinkle
thickly with flaked almonds before baking.
CHERRY GENOA CAKE
Four and a half pounds butter, 4iX> pounds sugar, 2 quarts eggs, 6
pounds soft flour, y 2 ounce baking powder, 4 pounds of halved cherries.
2 pounds of citron (cut in small cubes), y 2 pound almond paste, little
egg color and 2 liquor glasses of Noyau.
GINGER POUND CAKE
Three pounds 6 ounces sugar, 4y 2 pounds butter, 46 eggs, 6 pounds
soft flour, l l /2 pints of New Orleans molasses, 1 ounce baking soda
(bare weight), 5 pounds preserved ginger (cut in small cubes), 1*X>
ounces ginger, l 1 /^ ounces mixed spices.
CARAWAY SEED POUND CAKE
To each 6 pounds of batter use y 2 pound chopped orange peel and
y 2 pound caraway seeds.
RICH FRUIT POUND CAKE
Twelve pounds sugar, 12 pounds butter, 16 pounds soft flour, 12
dozen eggs, 36 pounds currants, 15 pounds Sultanas, 6 pounds chopped
mixed peel (orange and lemon), 4 pounds chopped citron, 2 pounds
POUND CAKE 77
blanched almonds, 2 pounds almond paste, 2 pounds cherries (halved),
little egg color and ''Black Jack", the zest of 6 oranges and 6 lemons,
1 ounce of mixed spice. Smooth with milk before baking and wash
with orange juice made into a thick syrup as they come from the oven.
EICE POUND CAKE (Medium Priced)
Six and a half pounds of butter and substitute fat, 8 pounds sugar,
2 quarts eggs, 10 pounds flour, 1 pound ground rice, 1 ounce of baking
powder, 2 ounces corn syrup, l 1 /^ pints milk, 1 ounce salt, egg coloring
and lemon flavor.
LIGHT POUND CAKE
This cake contains quite a little baking powder, but is nevertheless
of good texture ; is a handy cake to cut up for serving with coffee or
afternoon tea. Weigh down the following : 6 pounds flour (4 soft and 2
strong), 2 1 / 4 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ounce of soda, 3 pounds sugar,
2 pounds butter, 2 dozen eggs, about 1 pint milk, 2 pounds of nice
fleshy Sultana raisins or 2 pounds halved cherries, vanilla or cherry
flavor, egg coloring.
WHITE POUND CAKE
Two and a half pounds of powdered sugar, 2 pounds butter, l l /2
quarts of egg whites, 3 pounds flour, 14 ounce of baking powder,
vanilla flavor. Beat up the whites with 1 pound of the sugar, cream
together the remainder of the sugar and butter and add the beaten egg
white gradually. Lastly mix in the flour and baking powder.
MARBLE POUND CAKE
Use the same mixture as for white pound cake. After mixing take
out 1 pound of the cake batter and to this add 2 ounces of cocoa. Place
this in a bag containing ^ inch plain tube. Fill the remainder of the
mix into the frames. Now take your bag containing the chocolate bat-
ter; force the tube into the white batter at one end of the frame, and
so that the line will run exactly through the center of the cake, run
a zigzag line through the whole length of the cake.
FLEUR DE LYS CAKE
Six pounds butter, 6 pounds sugar, S 1 /^ pounds flour, 3 quarts eggs,
1/2 pound almond paste, 2 pounds of pineapple (cut in small cubes), 2
pounds of whole glace cherries, 1 pound of pecan nuts, 1 pound of citron
(cut in small cubes), l /2 pound blanched almonds, little egg coloring.
Wash with orange juice made into a thick syrup as they come from the
oven.
SMALL POUND CAKES
This is a pound cake mixture baked in small hoops an inch in
height and an inch in diameter. The hoops should be papered with
bands 2 inches high and placed fairly close together on a papered bak-
ing sheet. For the mixture use : 3 pounds butter, 3 pounds sugar, 3
pounds of strong flour, 30 eggs, 1 pound of currants, egg color and
vanilla flavoring. With bag and l /2 inch plain tube fill in each one a
little over the top of the hoop, about I 1 /! inches in depth ; bake in oven
78
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
Dubosh Slices
about 400 degrees. Should make 30 dozen small pound cakes. Retail
at 70 cents per pound.
Nearly all the foregoing pound mixtures are for cake of fine qual-
ity. In some localities 40 cents is the highest price per pound obtain-
able for this class of cake. "When this is the case it must be left to the
judgment of the baker to make what changes are necessary in the
quality of materials used to meet the prices ; otherwise 60 cents per
pound is a fair price to ask. This should leave a nice percentage of
profit for the baker. For the dark fruit pound cake and Fleur de Lys
cake 60 to 80 cents per pound ; for the light fruit pound cake and fruit
cake, medium priced, 40 to 50 cents per pound.
Cream Baskets
Savarins
CHAPTER 15
FRENCH PASTRIES
It would well nigh be impossible to give all the different varieties
that come under this heading in a short chapter, so will content myself
with describing a few varieties that have proven to be the best sellers.
In most parts of the country it is customary to designate anything made
from puff pastry as French pastry. This is all well and good, if the
public has become accustomed to refer to this particular variety in
that way, but the term French pastry is generally accepted in the larger
cities as representing any form of highly decorated individual cakes or
pastries, providing they have a filling of some kind. They should retail
at not less than 10 cents each ; the better quality goods commanding
as high a price as $2 per dozen.
The bases from which these delectable dainties are prepared are
very numerous. The majority are prepared from a cake base, although
those prepared from sweet short dough and petit choux are great favor-
ites with the sweet eating public. The fillings comprise pretty well all
known creams and fruits. Fruit fillings are very popular during the
season, and a line of these should always be kept on hand.
The methods of preparing the fruit pastries are very simple and
probably they are the most popular. A case made from either scrap
puff pastry or sweet short dough is baked in a patty pan measuring
about 3^2 inches in diameter and 1 inch in depth. Before baking the
puff pastry cases place a small square of waxed paper within the case
and fill level with haricot beans. The beans can be used many times
over for this purpose, so after baking should be taken care of. A
small square of sponge cake is now placed in the bottom of the baked
case and a little custard cream poured over. Fruit in the way of straw-
berries, grapes, peaches, bananas, etc., is simply prepared in the raw
state and piled high in the case. Over the whole pour hot apricot jelly
and if a good price is obtained decorate with cream of some kind.
Apricot jelly is used extensively in the preparation of these goods,
and a recipe for same will be found among the list. The more highly
decorated pastries are usually prepared from cake base and are pre-
pared so that there is a good surface to work upon, allowing for the
play of a little flower work to give finish to the goods.
One thing that must me emphasized is that neatness is absolutely
essential in the preparation of this class of goods ; for instance, take
the sides of these goods as seen in the average store window. Very
often a good top is offset with the sloppy appearance of the sides. If
the price warrants a little extra time being expended upon them, it is
advisable to brush the sides with apricot jelly and press in a few roast-
ed cake crumbs or flaked almonds. This gives a nice finish to the goods.
Other important features are the quantity and quality of the decor-
ation necessary. Where there is a good surface to work upon, flower
80
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
FRENCH PASTRY 81
work undoubtedly gives the prettiest finish, and butter cream is the
best medium for this purpose. To the novice I would say; avoid high
colors and do not overdo the decorations as to quantity. Many other-
wise good bakers are sinners in this respect as much as their less capa-
ble brethren. When they become interested the commercial side is for-
gotten, pastries that retail at 10 cents each should command double the
price if the time expended upon them is properly accounted for.
During hot weather meringues take the place of whipped cream
and butter fillings. Almost all bakers are familiar with either cold or
boiled meringue, but very few know that some very delicately flavored
creams are made by using the juice of some fruits as the liquid in which
to dissolve the sugar before boiling. Apricots and raspberries are pe-
culiarly suitable for this purpose. To prepare the creams, press the
fruits through a fine sieve and stir in enough granulated sugar until
thick as for boiled meringue. Place on the stove and boil to the hard
crack degree. Allow about 4^4 pounds granulated sugar to 1 quart
of whites. If the sugar is weighed before stirring in this should de-
termine the quantity of whites necessary. To each quart of whites
allow 1/2 granulated sugar when beating up. When good and stiff
pour in the boiled sugar gradually.
Quite a few pastries are prepared from boiled meringue laid on a
cake base in the form of pears, apples, peaches, etc. These are usually
tinted with a little cochineal before the jelly is poured over and further
decorated with a leaf of green butter cream. For the various mixtures
referred to in the foregoing article the following recipes will be found
to give very satisfactory results :
PETIT CHOUX
One quart milk, y 2 pound butter, 1 pound 2 ounces flour (half
strong, half soft), 17 or 18 eggs, little mace and vanilla, pinch of am-
monia. Place the milk and butter in a small copper kettle over the
stove and bring to the boil. Stir in the sifted flour and work over the
stove with spatula for a few seconds. Turn into a bowl and work in
the eggs two or three at a time, stirring vigorously after each addition.
Add the pinch of ammonia last. Lay out in finger, crescent, oval and
round shapes. Bake in a good oven with the door partly open for the
first few minutes. Fill with whipped cream or custard cream, ice and
decorate.
LIGHT CAKE BASE
Thirty eggs, 30 yolks, 2 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pound 6 ounces
strong flour, 1 pound corn flour, l 1 /^ pounds melted butter. Warm the
eggs, yolks and sugar over the stove, just blood heat is sufficient; beat
up as for sponge cake. Mix in the sifted flour and corn flour, then
stir in the melted butter gradually. Spread this onto a papered baking
sheet to about 1 inch in thickness and bake in moderate oven.
For sponge cake to be laid out in various forms, afterwards to be
hollowed out and filled with cream, etc. Weigh down the following: 1
pound sugar, 2 pounds flour (half strong and half soft), l 1 ^ quarts
egg whites, 1 quart yolks. Beat up the \vhites good and stiff, gradu-
ally add the sugar, and just before taking off the machine mix through
the quart yolks. Stir through the sifted flour lightly with the hand.
Lay out in various forms on papered baking sheets and bake in mod-
82
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
erate oven. When baked (dry out pretty thoroughly) hollow out and
fill as described. Decorate with butter cream flowers.
CUSTARD CREAM
One quart milk, l / 2 pound sugar, 2 ounces strong flour, 2 eggs and
4 yolks, 2 ounces of butter, vanilla flavoring. Place the milk on the
stove and bring to the boil; mix the flour, sugar and eggs together;
make a nice smooth batter; pour over the boiling milk, then return to
the stove and cook until it thickens, stirring with the whisk all the
time. Add the butter when cooked and flavoring when cool.
FRENCH PASTRIES USING BUTTER SPONGE BASE
APPLE CREAM
One pound apple pulp, P/4 pound powdered sugar. Bake some ap-
ples on a pan in the oven ; pretty good apples are required for this pur-
pose. When baked press through a sieve and to each pound of pulp
take I 1 /! pounds powdered sugar. Place together in a copper kettle
and over a small fire. Beat with a whisk until light like meringue. Fill
in while warm.
BUTTER CREAM
There are a hundred different ways of making butter cream and
every baker seems to have his pet method. I generally vary my method
to the quantity required. I recently had charge of a department
where we put as high as 100 pounds of butter into a mix of butter
cream. What we found to be the most practical method was to use the
sweet butter and XXXX sugar, giving a little smoothness to the cream
with condensed milk. Therefore, the quantity in a way should deter-
mine which method the baker should use. Boiled su<?ar and yolks of
eggs, meringue, syrup, etc., can all be worked into creamed butter and
fine results obtained.
INDIVIDUAL FANCY CAKES
DESMONDONAS
For desmondonas weigh down the following: 1 pound sugar, 2
pounds flour, 48 egg whites (1^2 quarts), 36 yolks. Beat up the whites
and when good and stiff, gradually add the sugar as for meringue.
Just stir through the yolks with the whisk and mix through the flour
lightly with the hand. With bag and % inch plain tube (if forced
through a smaller tube you are liable to break the air cells in the mix
and make it heavy), lay out on papered baking sheets fairly high and
about twice the size of an egg. Bake in sound oven free from steam.
When cool, cut out the centers and sandwich together in pairs with
meringue flavored with vanilla. Brush over with apricot jelly and
frost with chocolate fondant. Place a little chocolate fondant in a
paper cone, cut off the point and circle each one two or three times.
Sprinkle a little chopped pistachio nut or chopped browned almonds on
top. Retail at so much per dozen
Desmondonas
Cocoanut Pyramids
ORANGE CRESCENTS
Lay out the desmondona mix in crescent form on papered baking
sheets. When baked remove the centers with a sharp knife and fill
with meringue through which has been mixed the grated zest of oranges,
place together in pairs. Brush with apricot jelly and frost with orange
fondant. Place a small piece of preserved fruit on top, pineapple, for
preference. Retail at so much per dozen.
CREAM PYRAMIDS
Using bag and % inch plain tube, lay out the desmondona mix in
small cones (base about 1% inches in diameter) on papered baking
84 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
sheets, bring to a sharp point at the top. With a plain round cutter -
inches in diameter cut out some pieces of cake from a sheet of yellow
cake. When the cones are baked remove the centers with a sharp
knife and fill with whipped and sweetened cream flavored with vanilla.
Cover with nice white frosting flavored with vanilla. Now prepare the
base by brushing the sides of the small rings of cake witli apricot jelly,
roll in roasted flaked almonds. Place the cone of whipped cream in po-
sition on top of the cake. Take a cone of white fondant, clip off the
ends and circle each one, two or three times, finishing by sprinkling
a little chopped pistachio nut on top. Retail at so much per dozen.
During the cold weather all kinds of creams are used as fillings for
the desmondonas, the frosting being in harmony with the filling and
named accordingly. Some very tasty articles are made in this way.
APRICOTINES
For apricotines, line some cup-shaped pans about 3*4 inches in dia-
meter and 1 inch deep with sweet short paste. Sprinkle a few cake
crumbs in the bottom and on top of these place half a preserved apri-
cot. Now pipe a pyramid of marshmallow, filling the tart well up the
sides, and bring to a point at the top. Place away in a cool place to set
firm. When firm cover the marshmallow by dipping in warm apricot
jelly, finish by sprinkling on top a little chopped pistachio nut or
chopped brown almonds. A very good substitute for the usual marsh-
mallow is prepared by adding a little melted gelatine to some freshly
beaten meringue. This will be found quite satisfactory i'or use in the^e
and other similar goods. Retail at so much per dozen.
VANILLA PASTRIES
Line some shallow pans 2^2 inches in diameter with short paste as
uesd for timbre cakes. In the center of each place a spot of red jelly,
fill with a mixture made by moistening cake crumbs with milk and
flavoring with vanilla extract. It should be of such consistency as can
be handled easily. Bake in moderate oven. When cold, with bag and
l /2 inch plain tube pipe on a bulb of hot meringue to cover the filling
entirely. Place in a very cool oven or hot closet for half an hour to
dry, then dip the top of each pastry in chocolate fondant to cover the
meringue. The fondant should be made warm and the pastry held a
few seconds over the pan so that when placed in its original position
there is no tendency on the part of the icing to run down the sides.
Finish off by sprinkling a little cocoanut, colored pale green on top.
Retail at so much each.
TIMBRE CAKES
Make a good short paste from the following: 4 pounds soft flour,
2 pounds butter, 1 pound powdered sugar, 3 eggs. Mix the butter,
sugar and eggs together, rub until smooth, draw in the flour and give a
good rubbing. Pin out a strip of this paste the length of a baking
sheet, 3 inches wide and 1/6 inch thick. When the whole of the paste
has been used up in this way, spread a thin layer of the following mix-
ture over each strip: 6 whites of eggs, flour (strong), and XXXX
sugar in equal proportions. Make into thin icing and give good beat-
ing. Make a border about % inch wide to each strip with coarsely
INDIVIDUAL, FANCY CAKES 85
chopped or flaked almonds. Cut with the scraper into fingers an inch
wide and bake in cool oven, about 250 degrees. Retail at so much per
dozen. Various fancy shapes can be made from this mixture three
corners, half-moons, etc. a round cutter being used for the half-moons.
FRUIT PYRAMIDS
Cut out some star-shaped pieces of cake from any good sheet mix-
ing and brush a little apricot jelly on top. Gather together any waste
pieces of glace fruit, cherries, pineapple, the centers of pears, etc. ;
chop up very fine and mix in a little rum extract. Add this mix-
ture to some plain butter cream and rub up until very light. At the
same time do not be stingy with the fruit. Pipe a bulb of this upon
each star of cake and put away in a cold place for an hour or so. Ice
with white fondant and sprinkle a little chopped pistachio nut on top.
These small cakes eat very rich, therefore should be made small. Do
not have the fondant too thick for covering purposes. Retail at so
much per dozen.
CHOCOLATE BARS
These are a dainty and tasty looking article, and if carefully made
their eating qualities are on a par with their appearance. For the bars
cut some long strips of plain cake about % inch square, pipe a heavy
line of chocolate butter cream down each bar of cake, spread this down
Chocolate Bars
the sides with a palette knife, round off nicely to give it the appear-
ance of being long and tube-shaped. Roll the strip of cake in roasted
chocolate crumbs and sprinkle a little chopped pistachio nut down the
center. Place away in the icebox for an hour or so and then cut into
portions 2 inches long, cut slantwise. A variety can be made by using
vanilla butter cream on some of the strips in place of chocolate. For
chocolate crumbs rub through the coarse sieve stale devil's food or any
stale chocolate cake on hand ; roast for a few minutes in the oven until
crisp and the stale flavor has dried out. Retail the bars at so much
per dozen.
CHECKERS
For checker cakes sandwich together two strips of light sheet cake
with vanilla butter cream. The strips should be 2 inches wide and about
1 inch in height, and when sandwiched together this will make the
strip 2 inches square. Cover the sides with vanilla butter cream and
86
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
Checkers
roll in macaroon crumbs. Place away in the icebox for half an hour or
so. When firm, cut into pieces 1 inch wide and place the cut side down.
Spread a little apricot jelly over the top of each and pipe four dots
of fondant on each, two chocolate and two yellow. Have the fondant
the proper consistency to run out into a nice round flat dot. Retail at
so much per dozen.
STRAWBERRY PETITS FOURS
Strawberry petits fours are made by cutting out pieces of cake
from a light sheet mixing with a round cutter l 1 /^ inches in diameter.
The cutter should be bent so that it is wider at one end than the other.
Strawberry Petits Fours
Prepare some strawberry butter cream by adding one box of fresh
strawberries (chopped very fine) to 3 pounds of sweet butter and 3%
pounds XXXX sugar. Beat the butter and sugar fairly light before
adding the strawberries and add just a tinge of pink color. With a bag
and plain tube pipe a little of this cream on top of the cake, shaping
as well as possible in the form of a strawberry. Place away in the
icebox to set firm. Ice in pale pink fondant and pipe over the top of
this small white dots of fondant. Make the stalk of angelica or royal
icing, colored green, with just a touch of yellow added. Retail at so
much per dozen.
INDIVIDUAL FANCY CAKES
STRAWBERRY MASCOTS
87
For strawberry mascots cut out from a sheet mixing as used for
Fedora cakes pieces of cake 2 inches square. With bag and star tube
pipe on top a pyramid of strawberry butter cream. Let stand in a cool
place for an hour or so to set firm. Heat up a little apricot jelly on the
Strawberry Mascots
stove and add to this a few sheets of gelatine. While just warm dip
the cakes and before the jelly sets have your assistant press flaked
almonds into the sides. Sprinkle a little chopped pistachio nut on top
and retail at so much per dozen.
MOCHA SLICES
For mocha slices make up a sheet mixing of the following : 18 eggs,
18 yolks, iy 2 pounds granulated sugar, 1 pound flour, y 2 pound
almonds. Roast the almonds in the oven until browned through, grind
up very fine and mix through the flour. Place the eggs, yolks and
sugar into a deep bowl, warm through and beat up as for sponge cake.
When thick add the flour, almonds, partly mix, then pour in the butter
(which has been previously melted) and mix through lightly without
overworking. Spread to % inch in thickness on papered baking sheets
and bake in sound oven. When baked cut into strips 2 inches wide and
Mocha Slict s
88 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
the length of the pan. Sandwich two of the strips together by placing
one on top of the other with a layer of mocha butter cream between.
Cover the top and sides with a thin layer of the same cream and press
roasted chopped almonds into the sides. Decorate the top by using a
small star tube for the border, pipe a couple of plain lines running par-
allel with the border and a little scroll work down the center. Cut into
pieces 1 inch wide. Retail at so much per dozen. For the mocha cream
prepare a strong coffee extract by placing l / pound coffee with 1 pint
of syrup on the stove. Allow to simmer gently over the fire until
there is y 2 pint of liquid left, strain, allow to cool and mix with vanilla
butter cream. If a little additional color is required this can be ob-
tained by using a little "Black Jack" or burnt sugar.
FEDORA CAKES
Prepare a sheet mixing from the following: 15 eggs, 15 yolks, 114
pounds sugar, 12 ounces strong flour, y 2 pound ground roasted
almonds, y 2 pound butter. Roast the almonds in the oven until nicely
browned through and grind up very fine. Place the eggs, yolks and
sugar into a deep bowl, warm through and beat up as for lady fingers.
Mix in the flour and almonds and lastly butter (the butter should be
previously melted over the fire). Mix through lightly and spread on
papered baking sheets to % inch in thickness. Bake in moderate oven.
When cool cut out with round cutter 2 inches in diameter, brush over
with apricot jelly and cover the sides with roasted flaked almonds.
Xow fill a few of the plain bouchee cases with whipped and sweet-
ened cream, flavored with vanilla. Place one of these on top of each
and dust the whole with XXXX sugar. Retail at so much per dozen.
CHOCOLATE SLICES
Proceed in the same way as for mocha slices, using chocolate but-
ter cream in the place of mocha. Decorate by piping a border of choc-
olate butter cream on top, using a plain tube with two lines of vanilla
butter cream and a little raspberry jam down the center. Retail at so
much per dozen.
COCOANUT PYRAMIDS
Prepare a boiled meringue by placing 2y 2 pounds granulated sugar
with 1 pint of water on the stove; boil to the soft ball degree. In the
meantime having 16 whites beaten to a stiff foam ; add the boiling sugar
gradually while giving good beating. Flavor the mixture vanilla and
add sufficient grated cocoanut to make a paste that can be handled
easily without feeling unduly sticky. The pyramids are formed in small
cone-shaped molds ~\.y 2 inches in height and I 1 /! inches in diameter of
base. The paste is pressed firmly into the mold and given a sharp tap
on the bench, when it will be found to leave the mold easily. Place a
little apart on greased and floured pans, let dry over night and bake in
good oven sufficient to tint the tops a golden brown. Retail at so much
per pound. If instructions are carefully followed, a nice gummy eating
biscuit should be obtained. The article can be considerably cheapened
by using the ordinary dried cocoanut in place of the frash grated, but
if a high class trade is done the extra flavor resulting from the use of
the fresh cocoanut will be much appreciated. Of course other shapes
INDIVIDUAL FANCY CAKES
89
Cocoanut Pyramids
than the one mentioned can be made. Oval shapes worked to a point
at each end look very well, and small balls will be found to add to the
variety. Dry and bake in the same manner as for pyramids.
APPLES AND PEARS
Out of a piece of good sheet cake cut some round and pear-shaped
pieces of cake. Dip the cutters frequently in hot water to ensure mak-
ing clean cuts. Now prepare some good butter cream and flavor with
vanilla. For the apples use % inch plain tube and pipe on a bulb of
cream, but not too high. Remove the pointed part of the bulb with a
piece of wire bent horse-shoe shape, taking a little of the cream away
at the same time. This should leave the center a little lower than the
sides. Using the same tube, pipe a little cream on the pear-shaped
pieces of cake, making it bold at one end and tapering off nicely to a
point at the other. Place away in the icebox for an hour or so to set
firm. When firm ice with fondant. With a brush dipped in cochineal
which has been diluted with a little syrup tint the apples and pears,
making them look as natural as possible. Place a clove with the little
ball part removed for the eye of the pear and a piece of angelica for the
stalk. Place in small crimped paper cases. Retail at so much per dozen
according to locality. The fruit can be made to look more natural by
using pale yellow fondant to which has been added a little green. But
Apples and Pears
Chocolate Slices
<0 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
the writer's experience is that many people object to too many colors
in this class of goods, therefore it is best to use just white and pink to
be on the safe side.
Almond Bouchees
PETITS BEURRES
With an oval cutter cut out some small oval-shaped pieces of
cake; any good light sheet mixing will do. Pipe on each a bulb of
butter cream, using a bag and l /2 inch plain tube and piping on in the
form of a half-meringue i-hell. Bring to the boil a little apricot jelly
Petits Beurres
and to this add a few sheets of gelatine. Cool off a little. Then cover
each cake with the jelly and press a few roasted flaked almonds into
the sides, with a cherry and angelica on top. Retail at so much per
dozen.
CHOCOLATE ALMOND CREAMS
Pin out some pieces or puff pastry the length of the pan and about
4 inches wide, the same kind of strips as are used for Napoleons. Dock
let rest a while and bake crisp. Cut into pieces iy 2 inches wide and
spread on a little orange filling, the recipe for which is given below.
Take some good stiff meringue, flavored with vanilla and with about 5
pounds of sugar to the quart of whites ; pipe a high bulb on each piece
of cake to l l / 2 inches in height shaped to a point at the top. Dry for
10 or 15 minutes in a cool oven or for half an hour in a hot closet,
then ice the whole with chocolate fondant and sprinkle on a few roasted
INDIVIDUAL FANCY CAKES
91
Chocolate Almond Creams
flaked almonds before the icing sets. Retail at so much per doxen
This makes a delicious eating pastry, with the orange filling sufficient-
ly strong to flavor the whole. When cut the white center shows up in
sharp contrast to the chocolate covering, giving it a classy appearance.
MARASCHINO FINGERS
For Maraschino fingers prepare a regular meringue with 1 quart
egg whites, 4^ pounds sugar and a pinch of cream of tartar. When
ready stir through the mix 1 pound of almonds, ground very fine, i/4
pound flour, 1^ pounds cake crumbs. Light colored cake crumbs are
the best for this purpose, as crumbs that contain any fat may be detri-
mental to the mix, so would advise sponge cake crumbs for preference.
Maraschino Fingers
With bag and !/4 inch plain tube lay out in long fingers on greased
and floured baking sheets, and dust with a mixture composed of shred-
ded cocoanut and macaroon crumbs in equal proportions. Bake in oven
about 400 degrees. When cool sandwich in pairs with a meringue made
from 1 quart whites and 4 pounds sugar, with sufficient rum ex-
tract for flavor. Make a variety by coloring half the mixture pink.
Finish w r ith a little chopped pistachio nut on top and dry for two or
three minutes in the oven, just to set a crust on the meringue. Retail
at so much per dozen.
92
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
Floral Gateau
La Rose Gateau
ROSE TARTLETS
Mocha Gateau
For rose tartlets line some shallow patty pans with sweet short
paste as for Kopje tartlets and three-quarters fill with the following
mixture : 1 pound butter, 1*4 pounds sugar, 10 eggs, 1 pound 2 ounces
soft flour, zest of 4 oranges and a little rum extract, Rub the butter and
sugar to a light cream, add the eggs gradually, then the orange zest and
extract and lastly flour. Bake in moderate oven. When cool, with a
large petal rose tube pipe on top of each a large rose of meringue
through which has been mixed a little orange zest. Sprinkle a little
pistachio nut on top and dry two or three minutes in the oven. Retail
at so much per dozen.
KOPJE TARTLETS
Kopje tartlets are prepared in the same way as for Viennese pas-
tries, minus the strip across. When cool remove the center of each tart-
let with a small round cutter IVi inches in diameter, cut down into
each tartlet until the paste bottom is reached, but do not cut through.
Fill in the cavity thus made with good lemon cream, dust with XXXX
sugar and sprinkle a little pistachio nut on top. Retail at so much per
dozen.
VIENNESE PASTRIES
For Viennese pastries line some shallow cup-shaped pans with
sweet short paste prepared from the following : 6 pounds soft flour, 4
pounds butter, 2 pounds sugar. 6 eggs. Rub the butter through the
Rose Tartlets
Kopje Tartlets
INDIVIDUAL FANCY CAKES
Viennese Pastries
Strawberry Butter Cake
flour, make a bay, add the sugar and eggs and make into a nice,
smooth dough without overworking. Roll out the paste and cut out
with round lluted cutter 3 inches in diameter and press into the molds.
Thumb up level with the edge of the pan and pipe a little raspberry
jam in the bottom of each. Now prepare the following mixture : 2
pounds butter, 2 pounds sugar, 5 pounds cake crumbs, 14 eggs, 1/2
pound almond paste. Beat the butter and sugar to a light cream ; mix
in the almond paste, then the eggs gradually and lastly crumbs. Force
a large bulb of this mixture into each pan and spread level with a
bowl knife. Pin out a little scrap puff paste, very thin, and cut long
strips V 4 inch wide. Place in position on pastries, let rest for half an
hour and bake in moderate oven. Retail at so much per dozen.
STRAWBERRY BUTTER CAKES
For strawberry butter cakes prepare a sheet mixing from the
following: 18 eggs, 18 yolks, l 1 /^ pounds granulated sugar, 1 pound
strong flour, }/2 pound almonds, !/2 pound butter. Roast the almonds
in the oven until nicely browned through, grind up very fine and mix
through the flour. Place the eggs, yolks and sugar into a deep bowl,
warm through and beat up as for sponge cake. When thick add the
flour and almonds, partly mix, then pour in the butter (which has been
previously melted) and mix through lightly without overworking.
Spread to 1 inch in thickness on papered baking sheets and bake in
sound oven. When cool, split in two and sandwich a sheet with a good
Raspberry Cream Ovals
Walnut Pyramids
94
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
layer of strawberry butter cream and put away in a cool place for an
hour or so. When firm cut into oblong-shaped pieces 1V4 inches wide
and 2 inches in length. Bring to the boil on the stove a little apricot
jelly, give a little additional body to the jelly by adding a few sheets
of gelatine and color red with a few spots of carmine. When the gela-
tine is dissolved remove from the stove and allow to cool sufficiently so
that the cakes can be dipped without the jelly soaking in. Dip sepa-
rately, and before the jelly sets press roasted almonds into the sides.
Finish by placing a strawberry dipped in glace sugar on top, with a
leaf cut from angelica. Retail at so much per dozen. For the glace
sugar take 2 pounds granulated sugar, a little more than */2 P* n t of
water and a pinch of cream of tartar. Boil to the hard crack degree
or when the sugar begins to change to a light golden color. Dip each
strawberry into the boiling sugar and drop onto a lightly greased pan.
ORANGE FILLING
This is a filling with a sharp flavor that can be used to advantage
in goods where the flavor is more or less in doubt or where a little ad-
ditional flavor is required, such as marshmallow goods, etc. Oranuv
filling is the name given it, but rum extract and almond paste play au
important part ; therefore the mixing can be varied for different goods
by the addition of a little extra almond paste, rum or oranges, as the
case may be. It will be found useful for piping on tops of small fancy
cakes before dipping, etc., but when used as a filling should be used
sparingly. Put through the coarse sieve 6 to 8 pounds good cake
crumbs; into this mix 2^/2 pounds of almond paste, juice and zest of 6
to 8 oranges, rum extract, sufficient apricot jelly to make the mix
about the consistency of plain macaroon paste. Store away in a jar
and use as required.
NEAPOLITAN CREAMS
For Neapolitan creams take a sheet of the cake as used for straw-
berry butter cake and cut into strips 2 inches wide. With a bag and
l /2 inch plain tube pipe a line of chocolate butter cream running the
\vhole length of the strip. Alongside of this pipe a line of mocha butter
cream and a line of vanilla butter cream on top. When quite firm, ice
half the strips with white fondant with a little orange zest mixed
through and the other half in chocolate fondant with a little chipped
pistachio nut on top. Allow to stand until quite firm, then with a
Fruit Gateau
Mocha Gateau
Fruit Gateau
INDIVIDUAL FANCY CAKES
95
Neapolitan Creams
Pineapple Creams
sharp knife dipped frequently in hot water cut slantwise into pieces
about 11/2 inches wide. Retail at so much per dozen.
PINEAPPLE CREAMS
For pineapple creams, with a round cutter 1% inches in diameter
cut out some pieces of cake from a light sheet mixing. Pipe on top a
large bulb of vanilla butter cream through which has been mixed pre-
served pineapple chopped very fine. When firm, ice in pale yellow
fondant and make the small eyes of the pineapple with a skewer occa-
sionally dipped in liquid bitter chocolate. Place three small diamonds
of angelica on the top of each to represent the leaf part. Place in small
paper cases and retail at so much per dozen.
CRUMB TARTLETS
For crumb tartlets line some shallow patty pans 2^ inches in dia-
meter, with good short paste, using a round, crinkled cutter for cut-
ting out the paste. Place a little red jelly in the bottom of each and
then prepare the following mixture : 2 pounds butter, 2 pounds pow-
dered sugar, 14 eggs, 14 ounce salt and 5 pounds stale cake crumbs
passed through a coarse sieve. Cream together the butter and sugar,
add the salt and the eggs gradually, and mix in the cake crumbs. Fill
the tarts by taking a little of the mixture in the hands, enough to about
three parts fill the tart ; mold into a ball and flatten out a little before
placing in. Bake in moderate oven. Retail at so much per dozen.
Almond Gateau
Tricolor Gateau
Gateau Supreme
96
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
Pinenut Macaroons
Chocolate Macaroons
Hazelnut Macaroons
Fancy Macaroons
CHAPTEE 17
ALMOND GOODS
In the preparation of almond goods where a fair price is obtained
the finest quality of almond paste should always be used. Almond
paste easily lends itself to adulteration perhaps more so than any
other grade of merchandise used in the bakery usually by the addi-
tion of cheaper nuts other than almonds. Therefore where flavor is a
great factor in the selling of these goods it is policy to use the best
paste it is possible to obtain. Even when bought from a reliable firm
the paste is apt to vary, either from having been oiled or dried too
much in the process of manufacture ; therefore it is up to the baker to
correct these little irregularities. This can be done by slightly varying
the quantities of whites and sugar. Each fresh consignment of paste
should be tried out and results carefully noticed ; if the paste shows a
tendency to flow too freely less whites and sugar should be used; if
the opposite is the case and the macaroons bake with a pinched ap-
pearance a little extra whites and sugar will show an improvement. Of
course all this must necessarily be left to the judgment of the baker.
Another thing that will assist or retard the flowing of the macaroons
is the quality and fineness of the sugar used. In goods such as are out-
lined here XXXX sugar and powdered sugar used in equal proportions
will give better results than either one of the sugars used alone. By
using half XXXX sugar the paste is smoother, therefore shows the im-
pressions of the tube much better ; it will also be found to dry out more
before baking. As I have given my reasons for using the sugars in the
stated proportions. I will try to explain why this formula is better
than when using the sugars separately. Take XXXX sugar; nine out
of ten samples contain a small percentage of starch. Of course this
starch in the sugar answers a purpose when the sugar is used solely
for decoration, but using it in almond goods of this description it has
an entirely opposite effect. The macaroons will be bound in the oven,
and instead of the biscuits spreading, they will crack and the moist
part burst through. Using all powdered sugar the goods will have a
tendency to flow more than is necessary. Therefore used together one
sugar counteracts the effects of the other. Of course this rule simply
applies to macaroons, which require a certain amount of drying before
baking.
PETITS FOURS
For the biscuit petits fours weigh down the following : 10 pounds
almond paste, 3~y 2 pounds powdered sugar, 3y 2 pounds XXXX sugar,
1 quart of whites, zest of 4 lemons. Rub down the almond paste with
the whites until nice and smooth, mix in the lemon zest and work
through the sugar without overmixing. Lay out in various fancy
shapes on papered sheets, using a star tube with about 10 to 12 points.
98 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
Color part of the mixture chocolate by adding a little melted bitter
chocolate. This should be laid out at once or it will become too firm to
be put through a bag and tube. A pretty biscuit is made by piping
on paper small bulbs of chocolate paste, using a plain tube. Press in
the center with the finger occasionally dipped in water. Pipe on top
a small star of the white paste and cover with granulated sugar while
moist. Let the biscuit dry over night and bake off in a hot oven.
Wash with syrup while hot. The fancy macaroons can be made from
the same mixture, but should be baked off soon after laying out. Using
a plain tube make small crescents, ovals, finger shapes and the two
and three drops piped close together; damp slightly with a wet cloth
and sprinkle on coarsely chopped almonds, shake off the surplus
almonds, press in the center with the finger and bake in good oven.
When cool, fill in the centers with a spot of raspberry jam and over
this various colored fondants.
WALNUT PYRAMIDS
With a star-shaped cutter cut out some pieces of cake from a good
sheet mixing. Now prepare the following mixture : 4 pounds good
cake crumbs, 1 pound almond paste, rum flavoring, 3 oranges, juice jnul
zest. Rub down the almond paste with the rum, orange juice and zest;
mix in the cake crumbs and make into a nice workable dough with a
little apricot jelly. The quantity of jelly used will depend upon the
moistness of the crumbs, but should be just dry enough to work with-
out adhering to the hands. Divide the small balls, press half a walnut
into each piece and roll around between the hands into a cone shape.
Place on top of the piece of cake, ice with maple fondant, and place a
piece of walnut on top. Retail at so much per dozen.
CHOCOLATE MACAROONS
Five pounds almond paste, 5 pounds sugar (half granulated and
half powdered), 1 ounce strong flour, 2 ounces cornstarch, 1 quart of
egg whites, bitter cholocate or chocolate powder. Rub down the almond
paste with a few egg whites and mix in the sugar, add more egg whites
to make about the consistency of macaroon paste, or rather this should
be a little softer ; work well on the bench or in the machine ; then add
sufficient melted bitter chocolate or chocolate powder to color a nice
brown. Lay out the regular macaroon size on papered baking sheets ;
damp with a wet cloth and cover with various colored nonpareils ; shake
of the surplus and bake in moderate oven. Retail at so much a pound.
HAZELNUT MACAROONS
Weigh down the following : 1 pound almond paste, 1 pound roasted
hazelnuts (ground fine), 3 pounds sugar (half granulated and half
powdered), l 1 /^ ounces strong flour. Rub the almond paste down with
a few egg whites ; then mix in the sugar, ground hazelnuts and flour ;
make to about the usual consistency of macaroons with egg whites;
work quite a little before dropping out. Lay out with bag and 1/2 inch
plain tube on papered baking sheets. Damp with wet cloth and bake
in moderate oven. Retail at so much per pound.
CONRGESS MACAROONS
Congress macaroons are made with a sweet short paste bottom and
afterward covered w r ith a bulb of thin macaroon paste. For the paste
ALMOND GOODS 99
bottom weigh down the following : 1 pound powdered sugar, 2 pounds
butter, 3 pounds soft flour, 7 or 8 eggs, little lemon flavoring. Rub
the butter into the flour, make a bay and place in the eggs, sugar and
flavoring. Make into firm dough without overworking. Pin this out
to % inch in thickness and cut out with plain round cutter, l 1 /^ inches
in diameter. Place the pieces on a baking sheet dampened slightly with
water, pan about an inch or so apart. Now prepare the following mix-
ture : 1 pound almond paste, l 1 ^ pounds powdered sugar, y 2 ounce
flour, 10 to 12 whites of eggs. Rub the almond paste down with the
whites of eggs, add the sugar, with the zest of two lemons for flavor-
ing. Rub this until fairly light, then with bag and y 2 inch plain tube
force out a small bulb of the mixture onto each piece of sweet short
paste. This should be of just the right consistency to run smooth
without running over the edge of the short paste. Allow these to stand
over night, then with a sharp knife make some incisions in the shape of
a cross on the top of each one, it is only necessary to just break through
the skin on the macaroon. Bake in moderate oven. Retail at so much
per pound or so much per dozen.
DUTCH MACAROONS
Two pounds almond paste, 2y 2 pounds powdered sugar, 1 ounce
flour, egg whites. Rub the paste down with about 1 pint of egg whites,
then add the sugar and flour, now add a few more egg whites. The
exact quantity cannot be given, as almond paste varies quite a little,
but add sufficient so that the paste will run flat and be quite smooth.
Now take a bag and y inch plain tube and lay out in small oval shapes
on papered baking sheets. Dry in hot closet for six hours or let stand
over night in the bakery. With a pin or knife, dipped occasionally in
hot water, cut through the skin which has formed on the macaroon,
making the incision straight down the center. Bake in moderate oven.
When baked wet the papers and place together in pairs or leave sin-
gly as desired. For a variety, color the paste, white, pink and choco-
late. Retail at so much per pound.
PLAIN MACAROONS
For plain macaroons weigh down the following : 5 pounds almond
paste, 5 pounds sugar (half granulated and half powdered), 2 ounces
corn starch, about 1 quart whites. Place the almond paste in the ma-
chine or bowl and rub smooth with y 2 pint whites, add the remainder
of the whites, then the sugar and corn starch, let run for about five
minutes on the machine at slow speed. Lay out with bag and V 2 inch
plain tube in drops about the size of a 50-cent -piece on papered baking
sheets, dampen the tops with water with the aid of wet cloth. Use an
extra thickness of paper on baking sheets and bake in moderate oven.
When baked remove at once from baking sheets to prevent drying out.
Remove the papers by dampening with a brush dipped in water. Retail
at so much per pound.
CHOCOLATE ALMOND BARS
For chocolate almond bars prepare the same dough as for royal
almond bars, adding sufficient melted bitter chocolate to color and fla-
vor. Proceed in the same way as for royal almond bars. Retail at so
much per pound.
100 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
White Almond Bars
ROYAL ALMOND BARS
For royal almond bars weigh down the following : 4 pounds almond
paste, 2 pounds XXXX sugar, 1 pound flour, pinch of cream of tartar,
vanilla flavor. Mix the almond paste with the sugar and flour and
make into a stiff, dry dough with a few egg whites. Roll out the dough
to % inch in thickness. Wash the top of the dough lightly with water
and place on enough sheets of wafer paper to cover the whole. Now
take the dough in the hands and turn over so that the wafer paper is at
the bottom. Prepare a little royal icing (the beaten whites of eggs
with XXXX sugar) and spread a thin coating of this on top. Before
being allowed to dry sprinkle over the top a few finely chopped
almonds. Allow to dry for half an hour, then cut into fingers 2 inches
long and l / 2 inch wide. Place on papered baking sheets and bake in
moderate oven. Place about % inch apart on the baking sheets before
baking. Retail at so much per pound.
CINNAMON ALMOND STICKS
Weigh down the following : 2^2 pounds powdered sugar, 1 ounce
flour. 1 pint egg whites, pinch of cinnamon, 2 pounds of whole almonds
roasted in the skins. Chop up the almonds fairly coarse, place these in
a copper kettle and add the other ingredients. Stir together until
boiling point is reached and immediately remove from the stove. Have
some wafer paper ready on the bench in a long strip the length of two
or three baking shets and about 4 inches wide. Have your assistant
spoon this mixture onto the wafer paper while you spread the mixture
to about V4 inch in thickness. Allow this to get quite cool, then cut
into strips ^ inch wide and 2 inches long and place an inch apart on
papered baking sheets. Bake in oven about 300 degrees. Retail at so
much per pound.
ALMOND BATONS
For almond batons weigh down the following: 4 pounds powdered
sugar, 1 pound chopped almonds, ^ pound cake crumbs. 8 ounces cocoa-
nut, 18 whites of eggs, pinch of cinnamon. Place the egg whites and
sugar in a copper kettle, put on stove and bring to a boil. Then add
the cocoanut, almonds, crumbs and cinnamon. Stir briskly over the
fire for a few seconds. Have some sheets of sweet short dough previ-
ALMOND GOODS
101
ously prepared and made as follows : 6 pounds of soft flour, 3 pounds
butter, 11/2 pounds sugar, 10 eggs. Rub the butter into the flour, make
a bay, add the sugar and eggs, and make into a firm dough. Now take
some sheets of paper the exact size of the baking sheets used, dust with
flour and pin out a piece of paste to */ inch in thickness. Transfer
this to the baking sheet by taking hold of the edges of the paper and
drawing onto the pan. Measure off 3 inches from the edge of the bak-
ing sheet and remove a strip y% inch wide and the whole length of the
sheet. Measure off another 3 inches and remove a second strip and
so on. This will leave you with four or five strips of paste on each pan.
Turn in the edges of each strip a little to keep in the filling, and to in-
sure the strips being a nice shape place a strip of greased wood between
each two, dock with fork down the center and bake in moderate oven
just sufficient to set the paste. When baked pour over the baton mix-
ture, dividing it equally among the strips, spread evenly with bowl
knife and return to oven until set. Cut while hot with scraper into strips
1 inch wide, this causing the mixture to crack nicely over the top. Re-
tail at so much per dozen.
ALMOND TARTS
Line some cup-shaped pans about 3 l / 2 inches in diameter and 1 inch
deep with a thin layer of scrap puff paste, thumb up the sides, then fill
with the following mixture : 1 pound sugar, 1 pound butter, 12 eggs, 1
pound almond paste, 1 pound crumbs, little rum flavoring. Rub to-
Almond Tarts
Almond Tarts
gether the butter, sugar and almond paste, add the eggs gradually, then
the crumbs and rum flavoring. Divide this mixture between 4 1 / dozen
tarts. Bake in moderate oven. "When baked, brush the top with hot
jelly and sprinkle a few roasted flaked almonds on. Dust lightly with
XXXX sugar and retail at 10 cents each.
ALMOND MASCOTS
For almond mascots weigh down the following : 2 pounds almond
paste, 2 pounds granulated sugar, 2 pounds crumbs, zest of 2 lemons,
good 1/2 pint of egg whites. Rub the almond paste with the egg whites,
add the lemon zest and sugar and lastly crumbs. Pin out to % inch
in thickness and spread over the top a thin layer of royal icing colored
a pale pink. Add a handful of flour after the icing is beaten light.
102
Let stand for half an hour, then, with a knife dipped frequently in hot
water, cut into pieces, ^2 inch wide and l 1 /^ inches long. Place a little
apart on greased and floured baking sheets and bake in moderate oven.
Retail at so much per pound.
Almond Mascots
ALMOND BOATS
Line some boat shaped molds, 3 inches long and l 1 /^ inches wide in
the center, with a good short paste made from the following : 3 pounds
soft flour, li/2 pounds butter and lard, x /2 pound powdered sugar, 2
eggs, 1 gill of milk. Place the fat, sugar and eggs into the bowl, rub
until smooth, add the milk, draw in the flour and make into a firm
dough without overworking. Now prepare the following: Rub 1^
pounds almond paste smooth with 15 whole eggs and to this add l 1 /^
pounds sugar (just stir in the sugar). Three parts fill each mold with
the mixture. This mixture is sometimes called "dead man's filling",
as it does not rise at all in the oven, but simply sets. It eats very
short and cheesy, and the almonds give it a pleasant flavor. Bake in
good oven about 380 degrees. When cool remove the center from each
boat with a small oval or round cutter % inch in diameter; give a lit-
tle twist between the fingers when removing the center to make a clear
cut. Now run in sufficient warm jelly to fill the hole thus made and
cover the almond filling to the depth of % inch. Dust the removed cen-
ters with XXXX sugar and place in position, with a whole almond at
each end. Retail per dozen. The filling mentioned in the foregoing
recipe can be used for many purposes. Another nice tartlet is made by
lining deep fluted pans with short paste ; three parts fill with the mix-
ture. When baked brush over with a little simple syrup and sell as
almond custards.
LORANGE PlSTACHE
For lorange pistache biscuit weigh down 1 pound almond paste
and 1/2 pound XXXX sugar. Make into a stiff paste with Maraschino
wine and color green with a little green paste, but do not make the col-
or too vivid. Roll this into long strips about the thickness of your fin-
ger. Now prepare another paste from the following : 2 pounds almond
paste, iy 2 pounds XXXX sugar, sufficient whites of eggs to make into
a stiff paste. Pin this out into a sheet to Vs inch in thickness and cut
into strips l 1 /^ to 2 inches wide. Wash with egg and place a roll of
ALMOND GOODS
103
Lorange Pistachio
green paste along each strip of the white paste and completely envelop
the green paste with the white. Put in strips on a greased and floured
baking sheet, and place close together with a thin strip of greased wood
between each roll. Let dry over night and bake in a sharp oven suffi-
cient to tint the tops a light brown. When cool, ice with white fond-
ant through which has been mixed a little orange zest and sprinkle a
little pistachio nut down the center. Cut slantwise and retail at $1.00
per pound.
MARASCHINO BATEAUX
Line some shallow, boat-shaped molds with sweet short paste and
bake until drip and crisp, as for lemon meringue shells. When cool,
spread level with a paste made from the following: 1 pound almond
paste, 1 pound powdered sugar, 3 to 4 eggs. Rub the almond paste,
sugar and eggs well together and add sufficient Maraschino wine to
give a pronounced flavor. Now prepare some marshmallow by adding
a little melted gelatine to some freshly beaten meringue (a pound of
gelatine should be softened down with not more than 1 quart of water
for this purpose, or the marshmallow will otherwise be sloppy) . About
1/2 pint liquid gelatine to 1 quart whites is all that is needed. Put in a
Maraschino Bateaux
spot or two of cochineal to color a pale pink when adding gelatine.
With bag and plain tube pipe on in the form of half meringue shell
on top. Let stand in a cool place for half an hour or so to set, then ice
the whole in pink fondant, sprinkle a little pistachio nut around the
sides and decorate on top with royal icing. Retail at 90 cents per
dozen.
104 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
MACAROON SHORTBREAD
Prepare a rich shortbread from the following : 8 pounds of flour, 4
pounds butter, 2y 2 pounds sugar, 4 eggs, little extract of vanilla ; rub
the butter, sugar and eggs together sufficient to get them well incor-
porated, draw in the flour a little at a time, and thoroughly mix. Roll
this out in a sheet % inch thick, wash the shortbread with egg and
place on a sheet of the almond paste, wash with egg, sprinkle a few
coarsely chopped almonds over, dock, mark into l 1 /^ inch squares and
bake in moderate oven; do not overbake. When cool separate the
squares and pack in dozens. Retail at so much per dozen.
MARASCHINO PETITS FOURS
In a few mixtures following the one under this heading the founda-
tion is absolutely the same as for this recipe, a combination of sweet
short paste and fancy macaroon paste, yet each little article has a dis-
tinctive flavor, due to a highly flavored filling or icing. These little
goods serve merely to whet the appetite rather than to satisfy, therefore
particular attention should be paid to the preparation of the filling or
Maraschino Petits Fours
icing that gives each one of them its distinctive flavor. The filling or
icing can be prepared in fair-sized quantities, enough for two or three
weeks' use, so that a certain amount of regularity is obtained as re-
gards flavor; and remember to keep these goods small, as their small-
ness increases their daintiness. For the sweet short paste weigh down
the following : 6 pounds soft flour, 4 pounds butter, 2 pounds powdered
sugar, 4 eggs, 1 gill of milk. Rub the butter through the flour, make a
bay, add the sugar, eggs and milk and make into a clear dough with-
out overworking. For the macaroon paste use 5 pounds almond paste,
31/2 pounds sugar (half powdered and half XXXX), zest of 3 lemons, 1
pint egg whites (good measure). Rub the almond paste down with the
whites until smooth ; mix through the sugar and lemon zest to clear.
For the Maraschino petits fours pin out a piece of the sweet short paste
to % inch in thickness and cut out w r ith small fluted cutter l 1 /^ inches
in diameter. Place a little apart on clean pans lightly splashed with
water. With a bag and star tube of six points pipe a ring of macaroon
paste around the border. Let dry over night and bake in fairly hot
oven. While hot brush over a little simple syrup to which has been
ALMOND GOODS 105
added a little gelatine. To fill the centers gather together any waste
pieces of French fruit, mix with a few glace cherries and angelica and
grind up very fine. Soften this down with simple syrup and sufficient
rum extract for flavoring purposes and so that it is easily forced
through a bag and tube. Pipe a little bulb of this mixture in the center
of each biscuit and cover this with a little touch of fondant made very
weak and runny by the addition of syrup, so that the fruit will show
clearly through the icing. Retail at $1.00 per pound.
PISTACHIO BISCUITS
Pistachio biscuits are made in two shapes, but as the method of
preparing is the same, will describe together. Pin out a piece of sweet
short paste to Vs inch in thickness and cut out a few oval and pear
shaped pieces, of course using small cutters. Place a little apart on
clean baking sheets sprinkled lightly with water. Now prepare an
almond paste from the following: 2 pounds almond paste, 2 pounds
Pistachio Biscuits
XXXX sugar, 4 to 5 eggs. Mix the almond paste with the sugar and
make into nice pliable paste with the eggs. Pin out to Vs inch thick
and cut out with small fluted cutter l 1 ^ inches in diameter. Brush
the pieces of sweet short paste with a little apricot jelly, just sufficient
to make the almond paste adhere. Place a piece of the almond paste
on top and draw the two ends together to form a small cone shape.
For pistachio biscuit No. 2 wash the almond paste slightly with
egg and pinch together in the center. Let dry over night and bake in
hot oven sufficient to tint the edges brown. While hot wash with
syrup. Fill in with a little chopped French fruit softened down with a
little syrup, and over this pipe a little white fondant. Dip in chopped
pistachio nuts before the fondant is allowed to dry. Retail at $1.00
per pound.
CHEMIN DE FER BARS
Pin out a sheet of sweet short paste to % inch in thickness ; trans-
fer from the bench to a clean baking sheet. The macaroon paste for
these goods is tightened up considerably. This can be arranged by the
addition of a little almond paste and sugar. There are two ways of
106
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
Chemin de Fer Bars
making these bars ; one is to run out the paste in long strips through an
African forcer and place in position on the sweet short paste ; the
easier and quicker way is to pin out the almond paste to the size of
the baking sheet, place in position on the sweet short paste and pass
over a fluted rolling pon. The pin should be rolled over evenly and if
the impressions are fairly deep the marks will show up very fine. Dry
over night and bake in oven. When cool brush over with very thin
fondant make weak with syrup and well flavored with rum extract.
Cut in diamond-shaped pieces and retail at 90 cents per pound.
RASPBERRY ALMOND CUTS
Pin out a piece of sweet short paste to % inch in thickness and the
length and width of a baking sheet ; transfer to a baking sheet. Spread
a good layer of fine raspberry jam. With bag and ^ inch plain tube
pipe strips of macaroon paste running in opposite directions so as to
Raspberry Almond Cuts
form diamond-shaped openings, allowing one to see the jam inside.
Brush the strips lightly with egg and sprinkle over a few flaked
almonds. Let dry over night and bake in good oven. Cut into small
oblong-shaped pieces. Retail at 90 cents per pound.
GAUPRES BISCUITS
Gaufres biscuits are made from a fairly rich almond paste. For the
almond paste use 3 pounds almond paste, 2 pounds sugar, yolks of eggs
ALMOND GOODS
107
Gaufres Biscuits
and rum extract. Mix the almond paste and sugar together, add 1 gill of
extract and sufficient yolks of eggs to make a stiff paste. Pin out
the paste to barely y 8 inch thick and cut out with round fluted cutter
114 inches in diameter. Place half the pieces onto greased and dusted
baking sheets and brush lightly with apricot jelly. Now place another
piece on top of each and fix into position, so that the biscuit appears
to be half open. Dry over night and bake in hot oven. While hot wash
with a little syrup. Finish with half glace cherry and two pieces of
angelica. Retail at 90 cents per pound.
WALNUT BISCUITS
This is a biscuit made somew-hat similar to Maraschino petits fours,
but with a different filling. For the filling use 2 pounds of fine cake
crumbs, y 2 pound chopped walnuts, apricot jelly and rum flavoring.
Walnut Biscuits
Mix the chopped walnuts through the crumbs; add the rum flavoring
with sufficient apricot jelly to make about the consistency of plain
macaroon paste. Pipe a little bulb of this mixture in the center of
each, with half a walnut on top. Retail at $1.00 per pound.
PICNOLA MACAROONS
Three pounds almond paste, l l / 2 pounds granulated sugar, 1^
pounds powdered sugar, 2 ounces corn starch, egg whites. Make to the
108
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
usual consistency of macaroons with egg whites, work well before drop-
ping out. Lay out with plain tube in oval shapes on papered bakinjr
sheets, damp with wet cloth and cover the whole with picnola nuts
Shake off the surplus and bake in moderate oven. Retail at 90 cents
per pound.
Gateau a la Grande
Hazelnut Almond Bouchees
Rheims Biscuits
CHAPTER 18
LANCUES DBS CHATS (CATS' TONGUES)
This is a biscuit very poular in France and is rapidly gaining in
favor in this country. Eaten alone it is a very appetizing delicacy and
when sandwiched in pairs with a light filling has no superior in the bis-
cuit line for daintiness in appearance and eating qualities. Its' uses
are very extensive as a form of decoration and large charlottes and
fine gateaux are built up with the aid of this neat little biscuit and
their appearance greatly enhanced thereby. Great care must be exer-
cised in the baking of these biscuits, especially if a large quantity are
baked at one time. The biscuits should be perfectly white with slightly
tinted borders, and to insure having them uniform in this respect ex-
ceptional watchfulness is required at the oven. The pans should be
drawn to the mouth of the oven occasionally and the end ones removed
from the baking sheet with a bowl knife. As these biscuits soften quick-
ly when exposed to the air for any length of time they should be stored
away in an airtight tin and taken out as required.
For the biscuits weigh down the following: 2 pounds stron? flour,
2 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pint milk, 1 pint sweet cream, 18 whites of
Lansues des Chats
eggs. Sieve the flour and sugar together and make into a medium stiff
paste with milk and cream. The paste should be about the consistency
that will readily mix with whipped whites. Add a dash of vanilla ex-
tract. Beat up the whites in a separate bowl until quite firm and mix
through the cream paste with a spatula. With a bag and J /4 inch plain
tube lay out on well greased pans in fingers about 3y 2 inches in length
and place about l 1 /^ inches apart to allow room for spreading. Baking
in too hot an oven will cause these biscuits to spread more than is
necessary, and an oven too cool tends to give them a dry appearance.
An oven around 400 degrees will give thorn just the appearance re-
quired. Retail at so much per pound.
110 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
GATEAU A LA SUPREME
This gateau is a classy looking article and should be a welcome ad-
dition to any high class store. The colors are very delicate and in three
shades white, a delicate pink and a light chocolate. The cake is made
from a light chocolate sheet. It is a splendid cake with a nice velvety
texture, and is not too sweet, which makes it especially adaptable for use
with butter creams. For the mix weigh down the following : l 1 /^ quarts
eggs, l l /2 quarts yolks, 3 pounds granulated sugar, J 1 /^ pounds cake
flour, 1 pound fine macaroon crumbs, 1^ pounds butter, 1 ounce bak-
ing powder, 1 pound bitter chocolate, good l /2 pint warm water. Warm
the eggs, yolks and sugar and beat up as for sponge cake. Mix the
flour, baking powder and macaroon crumbs together. Dissolve the bit-
ter chocolate in the butter by placing together in the small steam ket-
tle. When the eggs, sugar and yolks are good and stiff mix through
the flour, baking powder and macaroon crumbs. When almost mixed
add the butter and bitter chocolate and finish mixing with y 2 pint
warm water, divide into three sheets and spread in one operation if
possible, as the mixture at this stage requires as little work as possi-
ble. Bake in medium oven. For the gateau sandwich two sheets to-
gether with a layer of vanilla butter cream and put away in the icebox
for an hour or so to set firm. Then cut into pieces 8 inches square,
spread a little vanilla butter cream around the sides and place the
langue du chat biscuits on end and as close together as possible around
the sides. Then with bag and plain tube pipe bulbs of vanilla butter
cream to cover half the top of the cake and fill in the remaining halt
with bulbs of light colored chocolate, butter cream. Finish with a wide
band of pink silk ribbon stretched around the cake and made into a
neat bow at the corner. In any high class store these gateaux easily
retail at $1.50 apiece and at this price look good to the purchaser. If
care is taken to see that the butter creams are nice and light and of
good flavor they eat as good as they look.
For a large fancy charlotte remove the center from a large, round
sponge cake, scoop out until there is just a casing of sponge cake left
and place langue du chat biscuits in position around the sides. These
can be stuck on with a little butter cream. Fill in w r ith whipped and
sweetened cream and decorate the top with small pieces of langue du
chat biscuits iced pink and cut into various shapes. These can be fur-
ther decorated with a little royal icing put on through a very fine tube
or paper cornet. Finish with a light shade of blue silk ribbon stretched
around the cake and made into a neat bow at the side. Retail at $1.50
to $2.00 each, according to locality.
CHAPTER 19
BONNES BOUCHEES
For bonnes bouchees weigh down the following : 1% pounds butter,
l l / 2 quarts milk, 27 eggs, 1 pound 14 ounces strong flour. Cut the
butter into small pieces and place in a small kettle with milk. Bring
to the boil and add the flour. Cook for two minutes over the fire, stir-
ring well to keep the mixture clear from the bottom of the kettle. Re-
move from the stove and add the eggs, two or three at a time, stirring
vigorously after each addition. With bag and l /2 inch plain tube lay
out half the mixture in drops the size of a 50-cent piece on lightly
greased baking sheets and place about 1^ to 2 inches apart. Using a
star tube, lay out the remainder of the mixture, describe a small circle
as the mixture is being forced through the bag and take care to have
them as even as possible. Remove the points from the plain bouchees
by pressing in slightly with the finger, previously dipped in egg wash.
Bake in oven about 400 degrees to 420 degrees. For chocolate bouchees
prepare some chocolate butter cream by beating together 2 pounds
sweet butter and 2^ pounds XXXX sugar until very light. Add a
dash of vanilla extract with sufficient melted bitter chocolate to color
and flavor. Now fill the plain bouchees by first making a hole in the
side by inserting the points of a pair of scissors, and with a paper bag
filled with chocolate cream force through the hole thus made sufficient
cream to fill the bouchee. Put away in a cool place for an hour or so
to set firm.
There are two ways of finishing these dainty little goods, and as
the finished article looks the same whichever way it is used, will give
both methods. For method No. 1 brush the bouchees with hot apricot
jelly and before the jelly is allowed to set firm roll in granulated sweet
chocolate. Have some small white paper cases set out on a pan, and as
they are taken from the granulated chocolate drop into the small cases.
This will minimize the handling as much as possible. Finish with a
little chopped pistachio nut on top. For method No. 2 dip in chocolate
fondant and cover with granulated sweet chocolate by rubbing the
chocolate over the coarse grater. Finish as for method No. 1. As far
as price is concerned anything from 75 cents up is a reasonable price
for goods of this description, and at this figure the goods will shew a
fair profit, although in the average high class store as high as $1.25 a
pound is easily obtained.
HAZELNUT BOUCHEES
For hazelnut bouchees take some cases laid out with the star tube
and fill with hazelnut butter cream made from the following: roast
some shelled hazelnuts in the oven until lightly browned through, cool
off and grind up fairly fine. Mix enough of these grounds nuts with
vanilla butter cream to give a pronounced hazelnut flavor. To -finish
these goods dissolve 2 pounds granulated sugar in a good % pint of
112
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
water and place on the stove. With a brush dipped in water remove
the particles of sugar adhering to the sides and add a pinch of cream of
tartar. Boil to the hard crack degree or until the sugar assumes a
golden color, then remove from the stove. Now dip the bouchees sep-
arately by holding the bottom of the bouchee between the thumb and
forefinger and dip about halfway into the boiling sugar. As each one
is taken from the sugar have your assistant sprinkle on a little pistachio
nut, as the sugar quickly sets. Care must be taken when dipping not
to touch the sides of the kettle with the bouchees, as this may cause the
whole mass of sugar to grain. Just dip them in and out as quickly as
possible. Place in paper case and retail at so much per pound.
ALMOND BOUCHEES
Proceed in the same way as for hazelnut bouchees, using almonds
in the place of hazelnuts. Finish by brushing the bouchees with hot
apricot jelly and sprinkle over coarsely chopped roasted almonds be-
fore the jelly sets. Dust a little XXXX sugar over the whole. Place
in paper cases and retail at 75 cents per pound and upwards.
BOUCHEES WITH WHIPPED CREAM FILLING
Take some of the cases as used for bonnes bouchees, make a hole
with the points of a pair of scissors and force in a little whipped and
sweetened cream. Frost with various colored and flavored fondants.
VANILLA CREAM BOUCHEES
For vanilla cream bouchees fill in the same way as for whipped
cream bouchees with the yellow vanilla cream and dust with XXXX
sugar. For lemon bouchees fill with lemon cream as used for lemon
cream pies, frost with an icing made from the juice and zest of lemon
and XXXX sugar.
FORMS OF CUT GLACE FRUIT DECORATION FOR TORTEN
CHAPTER 20
DUBOSH TORTEN
DUBOSH TORTE NO. 1
Weigh down the following : 12 eggs, 1 pound powdered sugar, 1
pound flour, iy 2 ounces butter. Separate the whites from the yolks
and beat up the yolks and sugar together. Beat the whites to a stiff
foam and mix in lightly with beaten yolks and sugar. Mix through the
flour lightly with the hand and lastly, add the melted butter. Have
ready four or five baking sheets greased and dusted with flour. Now
take a ring of any kind measuring 12 inches in diameter; place this on
the greased and dusted baking sheets and mark out 3 or 4 circles on
each pan. Place a good tablespoonful of the mixture within each cir-
cle and spread as thinly as possible. Bake in moderate oven until just
dried out. When cool place four of the layers together with a layer
of chocolate butter cream between each one. Now take one of the lay-
ers. This is to be for the top. Place 1 pound granulated sugar with
!/4 pint water and teaspoonful of glucose or pinch of cream of tartar in
a small copper kettle. Place on the stove and boil to caramel or until
the sugar assumes a straw color ; remove from the stove. Place the
layer of cake which is to be used for the top upon a flat paper plate,
pour some of the boiled sugar on top and spread very thinly. Now this
top has to be divided into 16 portions. The proper time to do this is
when the sugar begins to get brittle. Remove the center first with a
round cutter 2 inches in diameter, then take a knife (not too sharp) and
divide into 16 portions. Trim the sides of the torte with a sharp knife,
spread a little butter cream around and press into it roasted flaked
almonds. When the top is sufficiently cool slide onto the torte. Dec-
orate the sections with a little chocolate butter cream and a little fruit
in the center. Retail at so much each, or so much per portion.
DUBOSH TORTE No. 2
This is not quite as sweet as the foregoing one, and is one that I
would recommend if large quantities are made. I have been making a
Neopolitan torte and several kinds of slices, using this mix, which
proved to be real good sellers. Below is the mix and the method of
manufacture : l 1 /^ quarts egg whites, 1 quart yolks, l 1 /^ pounds sugar,
2 pounds (half strong and half soft) flour. Beat up the whites to a
stiff foam with 14 pound sugar, add the other sugar gradually as for
meringue, then the quart of yolks. Mix the flour through lightty with
the hand. For the torten proceed in the same way as for Dubosh torte
No. 1. For the slices spread the mixture very thinly over the whole of
the baking sheets. Bake and divide each pan into five strips. For the
Neapolitan torte and slices sandwich with three different colored and
flavored butter creams. The butter cream I generally use for these is
made with 4 pounds butter, 4 pounds XXXX sugar, 1 pint can pre-
served milk. The condensed milk I use to give the necessary smooth-
ness to the cream. Ice the top in white fondant, divide into sections
and decorate with butter cream flowers, etc.
114
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
HAZELNUT SLICES
Sandwich the Dubosh torte strips No. 2 together with butter cream
flavored with ground roasted hazelnuts. For the top use caramel sugar,
divide into portions 1 inch wide. Dip some hazelnuts into the caramel
sugar, place two of these on each strip (one at each end) with a little
chocolate butter cream decoration in the center.
SMALL CAKES TO SELL AT 40c TO $2 A POUND
CHAPTER 21
SMALL CAKES TO RETAIL FROM 40c TO $2 PER POUND
LEMO\ T ICE BISCUITS
This is a fancy biscuit that should mix in well with other small
cakes, to retail at 75 cents per pound. For the mixture weigh down the
following: P/4 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 12 eggs, 1% pounds flour,
T /4 ounce baking powder. Cream together the butter and sugar until
very light, then add the eggs gradually, and lastly flour with just a
little milk. Lay out in drops with bag and plain tube the size of a
25-cent piece on papered baking sheets ; bake in hot oven. Now pre-
pare a strongly flavored lemon icing by mixing together the juice and
zest of lemons with XXXX sugar. Warm a little over the stove and
dip the bottom of each biscuit into the icing, smooth over with the fin-
gers and set bottom up on a papered baking sheet to dry. This makes
a dainty little biscuit with a fine flavor. They take a little time to
prepare, but 75 cents per pound is a good price and should amply repay
for the time expended on their preparation over the cost of materials.
ORANGE ICE BISCUITS
For orange ice biscuits prepare the same mixture as for lemon ice
biscuits, using an icing well flavored with the juice and zest of or-
anges for dipping.
FLEUR DE ORANGE BISCUITS
Twenty whites of eggs, 2y 2 pounds sugar, 14 ounces flour, zest of
6 oranges, a little orange flavor. Mix the balance of the sugar through
the flour. Add this to the mix with the zest of oranges, shaking it
through as lightly as possible. With bag and ^ inch plain tube lay
out in finger shapes on greased and dusted baking sheets. Dust with
XXXX sugar and bake in moderate oven. Retail at so much per
dozen or 75 cents per pound.
POMMES DE TERRE
Take a piece of rich plain cake (it must be firm and not easily
crumble), cut into small oblong shapes about % by l /2 inch. Make a
paste of the following: 2 pounds almond paste, 2 pounds powdered
ugar, 5 or 6 yolks of eggs, flavor well with rum extract, mix thorough-
ly so that it is nice and pliable without breaking, roll out into a sheet
barely Vi inch thick and out in squares l 1 /^ inches wide; wash with
egg. Now dip the pieces of cake into apricot jelly thinned down with
water and lightly flavored with rum extract and syrup. Leave them
immersed only enough for the liquid to penetrate a little way or they
will become soggy. Place on the squared pieces of almond paste and
mold between the hands into the shape of a potato ; roll in powdered
116
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
Inverness Buttons Almond Biscuits Lemon Ice Biscuits
Parisian Puffs Hermits Walnut Molasses Wafers
SMALL CAKES TO SELL AT 40c TO $2 A POUND
cocoa and brush it off in places, or just roll around in the hands again,
and make a few eyes in them with a point of a match. Any kind of
fruit can be made in the same way. For a pear mold them into pear
shapes. Get a little cochineal on the end of the finger with a small
brush and touch the top lightly; fix a currant for the eye, make a
stalk of angelica, cut a diamond of the same material and press into the
side to represent a leaf.
INVERNESS BUTTONS
For Inverness buttons weigh down the following : 4 pounds butter,
3 pounds flour, 2 pounds powdered sugar, 12 whole eggs, 50 yolks.
Cream together the butter and sugar, add the whole ep:gs and yolks,
gradually beating well after each addition. Flavor well with vanilla,
then mix through the flour. Lay out on papered baking sheets in drops
the size of a 25-cent piece and bake in sound oven. When baked and
cool sandwich in pairs with raspberry jam. Now place closely together
on papered baking sheets, take a paper cone and fill with melted sweet
chocolate. Chop off the end to throw a fine line and go first in one
direction, then the opposite, forming a series of diamond-shaped spaces.
Allow to stand an hour or so before topping, as the sweet chocolate
takes time to set. Retail at 75 cents per pound.
LEMON WAFERS
One and a quarter pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 12 eggs, 1%
pounds flour, 14 ounce baking powder. Cream together the butter and
sugar, add the eggs gradually, beat well after each addition, lastly mix
SMALL CAKES
117
the flour and baking powder with just a little milk. Lay out in drops
the size of a 25-cent piece on papered baking sheets and bake in hot
oven. Now prepare a strongly flavored lemon icing by mixing together
the juice and zest of lemon with XXXX sugar. Warm a little over the
stove and dip each biscuit separately into the icing. Smooth off the
icing with the fingers and place bottom side on a papered baking sheet
to dry. Probably the quicker way of finishing them, providing you get
your icing just the right consistency, is to place the biscuits bottom
side up after removing from the papers. Fill a cone with lemon icing
and force a little out onto each biscuit. It should be of the right con-
sistency to run to the edge of the biscuit without getting on the sides.
When dry place together and retail at so much per pound.
WALNUT MOLASSES WAFERS
For walnut molasses wafers weigh down the following: 2 pounds
walnuts (chopped fine), 1 pound butter, l 1 /^ pounds sugar, 1 pint egg
yolks, !/2 pint molasses, % pound flour, y 2 ounce ginger, pinch cinna-
mon, cloves and mace. Cream together the butter and sugar, add the
yolks gradually, then the molasess and spices, and lastly flour and
nuts. Lay out about the size of a 25-cent piece on greased pans, allow-
ing room for spreading. Bake in moderate oven. Probably the greas-
ing of the pans and the heat of the oven are the important points to
watch about these small wafer mixtures. I always think it worth while
to try out a pan in the oven first, for if the pans are greased too heavily
the wafers will run too much and break easily when being removed
from the pans. If they are placed in too hot a part of the oven the
opposite is the case and they bake with a pinched appearance. They
scale quite a few to the pound and should find a ready sale at 75 cents
per pound.
SMALL CAKES TO RETAIL AT $1 TO $2 A POUND
118 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
PARISIAN PUFFS
This is a good way to use up any royal icing that may be left over.
If too stiff soften down with a little egg white and beat up until nice
and light. It should be of just the right consistency to run smooth on
the pans ( greased and floured) when dropped out onto the pans. About
the size of a 50-cent piece is the usual size. To make up a special batch
beat up the whites of eggs and XXXX sugar, add a good pinch of
cream of tartar and flavor with vanilla ; color half pink. Let stand on
pans' about two hours after dropping out before baking. Retail at so
much per dozen.
HERMITS
For hermits weigh down the following: 3 pounds sugar, 3 pounds
butter, 36 eggs, 5*4 pounds flour, 5 pounds pineapple, 5 pounds cher-
ries, 2 pounds pecan nuts, 4 pounds currants, pinch of soda, y% pint
rum. Cream together the butter and sugar, add the egcrs gradually,
beating well after etteh addition. The nuts and fruit should be chopped
up fairly fine and mixed through the creamed butter, sugar and eggs ;
mix fairly well to have the fruit distributed nicely, and lastly add the
flour and soda, dissolved in a little milk. With bag and i/ inch plain
tube lay out in drops the size of a 50-cent piece on greased and dusted
pans (dust the pans with flour after greasing and shake off the sur-
plus), bake in oven about 400 degrees. Retail at so much per pound.
COCOANUT AND ALMOND DROPS
Five pounds flour (half strong and half soft), 2 ounces baking
powder, 2*4 pounds butter, 2 1 / 4 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pint of eggs,
1 pint of yolks, extract vanilla, V2 pint milk. Cream together the but-
ter and sugar, add the flavor and beat in the eggs. Pour in the milk
and mix in the flour and baking powder. For cocoanut drops, with
bag and l /i inch plain tube lay out on paper the size of a 25-cent piece,
dust well with cocoanut (if string cocoanut is used chop up a little
with knife before using), shake off the surplus cocoanut and bake on
double pans in the oven. When cool, wet the papers, remove the drops
and sandwich in pairs. For almond drops use flaked or chopped
almonds in place of cocoanut. This mixture makes a nice bold drop,
and in a good locality 50 cents per pound should be easily obtained.
VANILLA WAFERS
Three pounds sugar, 3 pounds butter, 4 1 /i pounds flour, 18 eggs,
egg color and vanila flavor. Cream together the butter and sugar until
very light, add the eggs gradually, then the egg color and flavor and
lastly flour; mix through lightly. Lay out on well greased baking
sheets with lady finger tube in small drops the size of a 25-cent piece
and bake in moderate oven.
CHAPTER 22
WEDDING CAKES
June is probably the busiest month of the year for bakers who
made a specialty of this line of work. One good thing about work of
this kind is that it is possible, if a certain amount of business is assured,
to prepare quite a little time ahead. In this respect it differs from
any other branch of the trade. My object is to deal with the moderate
priced cakes which every baker handles at some time or other. From
my experience I find there are very few bakeries that do any business
in cakes over $15, and the very few that do handle the higher priced
cakes do a larger percentage of business in cakes under the price
stated. The average American bride does not pay half what her sister
in the older countries would do in luxuries from the confectioner for
an occasion of this kind, no doubt wisely preferring to spend her money
in things that have a more permanent value. Apart from the actual sale
and profit derived from a wedding cake, if the quality commends itself
to those present, it can be claimed to have real advertising value and
nine times out of ten will be the means of getting business for other
goods for the baker. I do not claim that my method of finishing these
cakes is absolutely original or the best, but will say that I have traveled
considerably and have run across very few bakers that follow the
methods I employ. Whether it is better than the method they now
use, I will leave to my readers to judge. A rich white cake is proba-
bly the most poular cake used at these functions, although the English
fruit cake is rapidly gaining in favor. When a white cake is used,
splash well with diluted rum extract. Now prepare some royal icing
medium stiff and spread on a coat to about % of an inch in thickness.
Allow this to dry a little, then beat up some fondant on the stove. This
should be warm and if necessary add a handful of XXXX sugar. Pour
this over the cake and spread quickly, allowing it to run clear down
the sides so as to give a good surface to work upon. If a plaque, horse-
shoe or any other design is needed in the center, first outline with royal
icing and when set fill in with fondant just warm. For medium priced
cakes I have been in the habit of using the first letter of the surnames
of the bride and bridegroom as a monogram for the center. This gives
a handsome finish to a small cake and is far superior to any bought
goods from the supply house. Of course it takes a little practice to get
the letters real neat, but once this is mastered the rest is easy by com-
parison. When doing the lettering first outline the letters using a cone
of royal icing cut very fine. Go over these twice, so that the lettering
will stand out well from the cake. When this has set firm, take
a little of the royal icing and stir in just a little syrup, enough to make
the icing run smooth when worked with the point of the cone. Fill a
paper cone with this and fill in the lettering. Work the point of the
cone a little so that the sugar will run perfectly smooth, at the same
120
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
time it should be stiff enough to give the lettering a nicely rounded
appearance. When dry gild over with a little gold leaf mixed with
banana oil or Maraschino wine. Other parts of the cake can be touched
up with the same mixture. This will enhance the whitness of the cake,
but should not be overdone.
WHITE CAKE No. 1
For a good white cake weigh down the following: Two and a half
pounds powdered sugar, 2 pounds butter, l 1 /^ quarts egg whites, 3
pounds flour, pinch baking powder, vanilla flavor. Cream together the
butter and sugar, add the egg whites gradually, then the flour and bak-
ing powder. Bake in moderate oven.
DESIGNS FOR WEDDING CAKES
WEDDING CAKES
121
FLORAL DESIGNS FOR WEDDING CAKES
WHITE CAKE No. 2
Five and a quarter pounds powdered sugar, 3 pounds butter, 2 1 / 4
quarts egg whites, l l /2 pounds flour, 3 ounces cream of tartar, 1^
ounces soda. Beat up the egg whites medium stiff and stir in 2V4
pounds powdered sugar. Cream together the remainder of the sugar
with the butter and beat in the egg whites gradually. Flavor with a
little vanilla or vanilla and almond oil. To this add 2 quarts milk;
then stir in the flour and baking powder.
ENGLISH WEDDING CAKE
Twelve pounds powdered sugar, 12 pounds butter, 16 pounds soft
122
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
flour, 12 dozen eggs, 36 pounds currants, 15 pounds Sultana raisins, 4
pounds chopped citron, 6 pounds mixed peel (orange and lemon), 2
pounds shredded almonds, 4 ounces mixed spices, juice and zest of 8
lemons. Cream together the butter and sugar, add the eggs gradually,
beating well after each addition. To obtain a nice cake with a golden
brown crumb I generally use quite a little egg color and a little burnt
sugar. This should be added at this stage, also the spices and lemons.
Mix through the fruit and lastly flour. The method of baking small
cakes of this kind is generally known, but for the larger ones the best
method is to bake them with a hollow pipe down the center. The diame-
ter of this should vary with the size of the cake, say a cake measuring
LETTERING AND MONOGRAM DESIGNS FOR WEDDING CAKES
20 inches should have a pipe measuring 2 inches. This ensures the cake
being thoroughly baked. Paper should be tied around the pipe ; an
empty condensed milk can will make a good pipe if the bottom is
knocked out; grease the paper and hold in the center while the cake is
filled in around the sides ; damp a little on top before baking. As soon
as the cakes come from the oven pierce in several places with a meat
skewer and soak in a little rum extract mixed with a little orange
juice. These cakes are best after standing two or three weeks. This
is ample time for the cake to regain its lost moisture. Tee and decorate
plain, or if an expensive cake envelop first in a coat of rich almond
paste prepared from the following: 4 pounds almond paste, 4 pounds
XXXX sugar, ^2 pint rum, sufficient egg yolks to make a stiff paste.
Cover the top and sides with this and mold into shape with the scraper.
In case the cakes are kept a long time this will also prevent the mois-
ture from the cake staining the royal icing.
WEDDING CAKES
123
INDIVIDUAL WEDDING CAKES
Occasionally in a high class store the baker is asked to supply these
small individual wedding cakes. When ordering the customers gen-
erally specify whether they desire the fruit cake and almond paste or
the white cake. The method of finishing is usually the same for both.
When the white cake is used, splash lightly with rum ex-
tract and cut to whatever shaped boxes are being used, allowing
about i/4 inch in depth and width for frosting and decorating. Frost
a nice white fondant flavored well with vanilla. The initials of
the bride and bridegroom are generally placed upon each piece of cake.
The decoration should be in accordance with the price obtained, as very
fine work is necessary to make them look good. Nothing heavy in the
FORMS OF WRITING SUITABLE FOR DECORATED CAKES
124
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
way of decoration is permissible on small cakes of this description.
When put up in fancy boxes, tied with ribbon, etc., $4.00 per dozen is
the lowest price at which they should be retailed. Arrange the letter-
ing separately or monogram style as for the large wedding cakes.
When dry gild over with a little gold leaf mixed with almond oil and
applied with a soft brush. Place in the wedding cake boxes, tie up
with either white or pale pink silk ribbon, finish with a neat little
bow on top.
BORDER DESIGNS FOR WEDDING CAKES
WEDDING CAKES
125
INDIVIDUAL WEDDING CAKES
INDIVIDUAL WEDDING CAKES
INDIVIDUAL WEDDING CAKES
126
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
HOLIDAY CAKE DESIGNS
ENGLISH PLUM PUDDINGS
PLUM PUDDING No. 1
In this land of energy and enterprise, almost anything from a small
spice cup with a little fruit in it to the larger variety blown out with
cream of tartar and soda has been labeled and paraded as "Real Eng-
lish Plum Pudding". Many firms, too, use butter in the composition
of these puddings, which is entirely unlike the recipes used over the
water, from whence it is supposed to have come. One thing must be
said in favor of the pudding in which, say, half butter is used; it cer-
tainly makes a little lighter pudding, but cannot compare with the all-
suet pudding when the eating qualities are taken into account. Here
is a recipe as used by a large London firm which exports tons of these
puddings each year. The recipe has also been adopted by several
American concerns and used wiih much < success. Weigh down the fol-
lowing: 18 pounds suet, 13 pounds flour, 18 pounds crumbs. 12 pounds
ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING
raisins, 12 pounds Sultana raisins, 30 pounds currants, 18 pounds or-
ange peel, 10 pounds brown sugar, juice and zest of 6 lemons, juice and
zest of 6 oranges, 50 eggs, 3 pounds almond paste, 1 quart syrup, 8
ounces mixed spices. Have the suet chopped fine and mix all the dry
ingredients together. Mix with 1 to l 1 /^ gallons of cider. Grease
the molds and see that they are well filled ; cover tightly with paper
and cloths. Steam about 5 hours for 2 pound puddings and longer .in
proportion to the size. If one or two decorated puddings are required
for window display, turn out when cold, wash with hot apricot jelly
128
MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
and arrange a bottom border of half almonds placed zigzag fashion,
with a little fruit or a sprig of holly on top.
PLUM PUDDING No. 2
Twelve pounds brown sugar, 6 pounds butter, 6 pounds suet, 6
pounds flour, 9 pounds cake crumbs, 12 pounds large raisins, 12 pounds
currants, 12 pounds citron, orange and lemon, 4 quarts eggs, 4 ounces
mace, 4 ounces cinnamon, 2 quarts brandy or rum. Cream together the
butter and sugar, add the eggs gradually, then balance of ingredients.
Fill in and steam as for recipe No. 1.
MINCEMEAT
Four pounds chopped suet, 8 pounds lean meat, 1 dozen lemons, 3
pounds citron peel, 10 pounds orange peel, 10 pounds large seedless rai-
sins, 20 pounds Sultana raisins, 10 pounds currants, 30 pounds chopped
apples, 15 pounds brown sugar, % pound cinnamon, 4 ounces mace, 4
ounces cloves, 4 ounces salt, 2 quarts syrup, 2 quarts cider. Cook
the meat and put through the fine cutter, have the suet and apples
chopped fairly fine, then mix all ingredients together, add the sherry
and brandy last.
CHRISTMAS PUDDINGS AND MARIZPAN NOVELTIES
CHAPTER 24
LAYER CAKE FILLINGS
PUNCH FILLING
Four pounds almond paste, 3 pounds powdered sugar, juice and
zest of 2 oranges, rum extract, little water. Rub the almond paste down
with the sugar ; add the oranges, rum and sufficient water to make into
a paste that will easily spread.
APRICOT, RASPBERRY AND ORANGE FILLINGS
One quart egg whites, 4% pounds sugar, apricot pulp. Take a can
of preserved apricots and press through a wire sieve ; mix sufficient of
this pulp with the sugar to make into a fairly thick mass as for fondant
boiling; add a pinch of cream of tartar and boil over the fire to the
soft ball, or 238 degrees, by the sugar thermometer if available, the
readiness of the sugar can be ascertained by dipping the fingers first
in ice w r ater, then into the boiling sugar and back again into the Jc
water; when the sugar is ready, the sugar that adheres to the fingers
can be readily formed into a soft ball. When ready remove from the
stove. Now beat up the egg whites good and stiff, and add the boiling
sugar gradually, beating all the time.
Raspberry filling is made in the same way, using canned raspber-
ries in the place of apricots.
For orange filling remove the zest from 8 oranges by rubbing on
lump or loaf sugar, using 4^ pounds to the quart of whites ; make into
a thick mass with about 1 pint water. Boil and proceed in the same
way as for apricot filling.
For use between layer cakes, etc., these fillings are improved by
the addition of a little melted gelatine. Dissolve 1 pound of sheet gela-
tine in 1 quart water by placing the can containing the gelatine and
w r ater in a larger one filled with boiling water ; add about 1-3 quart of
this liquid to each quart of filling while still warm. This will keep the
fillings firm and improve their eating qualities.
MARSHMALLOW FILLING
Three quarts water, 1 pound gelatine, 15 pounds sugar, 1 ounce
cream of tartar ; dissolve the gelatine in the water and make fairly hot
by placing the can in a larger one containing boiling water. Place this
with the rest of the ingredients in a machine kettle and beat until stiff.
Remove from the machine and add any flavor desired, orange, choco-
late, etc.
CHERRY FILLING
Chop 1 pound of preserved cherries in halves and let soak half an
hour or so in rum extract and syrup. Stir these in a good marshmal-
130 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
low filling and add J /4 pound chopped preserved pineapple at the same
time. A most convenient and quickly made marshmallow for this and
many other fillings is prepared by adding a little melted gelatine (1
pound sheet gelatine to 1 quart water) to a little freshly beaten merin-
gue. Most firms that do a fair business in high class goods have mer-
ingue around at different times during the day and this is undoubtedly
the best way of preparing it for fillings that do not require a large
amount.
SPECIAL LEMON FILLINGS FOR LEMON LAYERS
Six quarts water, 5 pounds granulated sugar, 30 eggs, l l / 2 pounds
butter, juice of 30 lemons, zest of 15 lemons, l 1 /^ pounds corn starch.
Place the water with 2y 2 pounds of sugar and the butter in a copper
kettle and bring to the boil ; add the lemon juice and allow to boil ;
mix well together the remainder of the ingredients ; stir in and cook
until of jelly-like consistency; then remove from the stove and store
away in jars.
CHOCOLATE WALNUT FILLING
For chocolate walnut filling weigh down the following : 6 pounds
walnuts, 10 pounds powdered sugar, about 1 pound bitter chocolate ;
grind up the walnuts very fine and mix with the powdered sugar ; make
into a fairly soft paste with warm water and add the bitter chocolate
in liquid form. This filling will keep for a week or so if kept in a cool
place. If too firm for spreading after standing a while, add a little
more water or syrup.
APPLE FILLING
For apple filling choose some nice, large, firm apples; place on a
baking sheet and bake in the oven until soft all through. When baked
and cool, remove the skins and press through a wire sieve. To each
pound of apple pulp thus obtained add IVi pounds powdered sugar and
place in a copper kettle over a slow fire. Beat with a whisk until light,
like meringue.
WALNUT FILLING
Seven pounds walnuts, ground very fine ; 8 pounds powdered
sugar; mix the walnuts and powdered sugar together; add sufficient
warm water to make into a paste that will spread easily; flavor with
rum extract and a little vanilla.
CHAPTER 25
ICINGS
FONDANT AND ITS USES
The utensils required for the manufacture of fondant are : A large
copper sugar boiling pan, such as candy makers use ; four straight steel
bars, a large wooden spatula, with steel head if possible, the head some-
what the same shape as a peel head, and a marble or slate slab. Weigh
into your bowl 25 pounds granulated sugar; into this mix about 3
quarts water and place over a steady fire; stir occasionally to insure
the sugar being properly dissolved before being allowed to boil. Care
must be taken to have the bowl quite clean before putting in the sugar
and water, as any foreign matter will make the sugar boil up and over
the side of the pan. When the sugar has reached boiling point put in a
sugar thermometer and when this registers a temperature of 230 de-
grees drop in 3^/2 pounds liquid glucose, continue the boiling until a
temperature of 238 degrees is reached, remove at once from the stove
and pour the sugar on the marble slab, which has been previously
splashed with water and on which the four steel bars have been placed
in position to form a square. The bars should be about % inch thick
and 30 inches long. Let this lie until almost cold. Then turn in the
side and as it runs out, throw over the sides again; work up and down
in this manner, keeping the sugar on the move, leaving no part un-
touched until the whole mass becomes white and sets in a heap on the
slab. Store away in a covered pan and in two days it will be ready for
use. If no sugar thermometer is available the readiness of the sugar
can be ascertained by taking a little of the hot syrup from the bowl
with the fingers, which have just beeen dipped in cold water. The
syrup, if thick enough, will cling to them and can be easily formed into
a ball. This is called the soft ball degree. Fondant is in great demand
for the covering of all high-class dainties for the reason that it retains
a rich gloss for several days, eats very soft and after its manufacture
is mastered, it is very economical to use. If it should be a little too
firm when being used for covering purposes, thin down with a little
simple syrup composed of 1 pound sugar and 1 pint water brought to
the boil. Do not allow the fondant to get too hot when beating up, but
just pleasantly warm. If too hot it is apt to lose its sheen. This is the
hand-made method of stirring fondant. There are several real good
machines in the market that do this work far better than by hand. The
sugar is boiled in the same way as for Wand-made fondant, placed in the
machine, allowed to cool, then creamed up.
HOT WATER ICING
For ordinary water icing use 1 pint of glucose to each gallon of
hot water and add sufficient XXXX sugar to make the right consist-
ency.
132 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
ROYAL ICING
Royal icing is extensively used for decorating large birthday and
wedding cakes. The proportions of sugar vary quite a little accord-
ing to what purpose it will be put. If for fine work on torten or writ-
ing, etc.. this should be a little softer than for heavy work (borders,
etc.). To 1 pint of egg whites mix about l 1 /^ pounds XXXX sugar,
% teaspoonful cream of tartar or a few drops of acetic acid. Beat
until nice and light, then add more XXXX sugar to make the consist-
ency required. For work that has to stand for any length of time add
one or two drops of blue. This will enhance the whiteness. For some
goods, such as small iced cakes, etc., a small proportion of meringue
added to the fondant when softening down for use will help irid the
frosting of the toughness which is usual in icings of this kind.
Fruit icings are made by adding the juice and zest of fruit to
fondant, then balancing these by adding XXXX sugar.
CHAPTER 26
BUTTER CREAMS
BUTTER CREAM No. 1
There are several good practical methods of preparing the butter
cream, two or three of which I will mention below. For butter cream
No. 1 weigh down the following : 4 pounds sweet butter, 5 pounds
XXXX sugar, 1 pint sweet cream. Beat to a light cream the butter
and sugar, add the sweet cream gradually with a little vanilla flavor.
The sweet cream is added to give the necessary smoothness to the
cream and can be replaced with 1 pint can condensed milk.
BUTTER CREAM No. 2
Five pounds sweet butter, 1 pint egg whites, 5 pounds XXXX
sugar. Make the whites and 2y 2 pounds of the XXXX sugar into a
meringue. Beat up the remainder of the sugar and butter to a light
cream, then add the meringue.
BUTTER CREAM No. 3
Beat into 4 pounds sweet butter, beaten to a light cream, 5 pounds
granulated sugar, made into a syrup with 1% pints of water. Allow
to get cool before beating. A rich cream is made by boiling the syrup
to the hard crack degree ; pour this into some whole eggs and yolks. 2
whole eggs and 4 yolks, to the pound of granulated sugar and 1 pound
of butter. Beat up as for sponge until quite cool then beat into the
creamed butter.
Mocha cream is made by adding an extract of coffee to the butter
cream. Color with a little burnt sugar.
Sweet chocolate imparts a much nicer flavor than bitter chocolate
to butter cream, so always use sweet in preference to bitter when con-
venient. All kinds of ground and roasted nuts can be added to butter
cream with fine results.
Canned pineapple chopped fine, the liquid drained therefrom and
added to the butter cream, results in a delicately flavored cream.
Strawberries chopped fine and added to the cream with a little
tartaric acid or lemon juice leaves a cream with a very pronounced
flavor ; add a spot or two of pink color.
Sometimes in adding fruit, such as strawberries, in which there is
an excess of water, the finished cream will be heavy. When this is the
case warm half the mixture over a stove until softened down a little,
mix all together and beat up in the machine ; this will remove the diffi-
culty.
CHAPTER 27
FIG PRODUCTS
Fig products for the past few years have been claiming the attention
of the bakers. This is in response to a general demand from that part of
the public always on the lookout for products which contain fruits or
other ingredients with a recognized medicinal value and which, when pre-
pared in the proper form, result in a delicious bread, cake or confection.
Bread naturally takes first place as the medium with the greatest
possibilities, first because it is the greatest staple, and second by reason
of the fact that the incorporation of figs in the dough is a comparatively
easy matter.
Fig bread as with raisin bread will vary in quality to a considerable
degree, as the quality depends to a great extent upon the merchandising
experience of the retailer. There are very few retailers who recognize
the value of standardization of a staple of this kind. They are usually
satisfied to take a part of their white bread dough and incorporate a few
figs, the quantity varying from day to day as does the age of the dough
at the time of the incorporation of the figs. The natural result is a loaf
of uncertain quality.
In the marketing of a product of this kind it is imperative that a
special dough be prepared which is accurately timed as to fermentation
and with properly balanced ingredients, bearing in mind at all times that
the objective is to preserve the fruit in its original form as nearly as
possible. To attain this it is necessary to give some thought to the char-
acteristics of the fruit itself and what action takes place during the fer-
mentation and baking process. Unlike raisins, natural figs when dried
are not in the convenient form which permits the use of raisins so suc-
cessfully for bread-making purposes. On account of the size of the fin-
ished dried product it is necessary to cut the fig into small pieces so that
there is no outer covering to hold the sugar juices of the fruit while it is
undergoing the fermentation and baking process and which very natur-
ally are released. This problem has been overcome to a great extent by
cutting the figs into convenient sized portions and then rolling in a starch
composition which, when partly dried, assists in retaining the fig in its
orginal form throughout the baking process. This product, I understand,
is now being successfully marketed as bread figs, the process having been
patented by one of the largest associations of fig growers.
These so-called bread fiirs, on account of their convenient form, are
capable of wide application in the bakery. With the fie's then in a con-
venient form, successful methods of handling them in the dough would
naturally follow. It has been found that fig bread, as with raisin bread,
should be prepared from a warm fast dough and from a high-grade hard
wheat flour. The dough should be at least 90 degrees when made with 67
per cent to 70 per cent of liouid to the 100 pounds of flour and in a great
manv instances with a larger moisture content than that above noted. A
136 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
good yeast food should be employed to assist fermentation, the idea, of
course, being to hasten fermentation by a slack dough and strengthening
and stabilizing same by using the best hard wheat flour obtainable, and a
large yeast content.
Figs or fruit in any form, when added to a dough, will retard fer-
mentation, resulting in a stiffening of the dough, usually on account of
the lowering of the dough temperature. This can be overcome to some
extent by keeping the fruit in a warm room for a day or so prior to its
use for bread-making purposes.
The figs should be added on the first knockdown, which must be al-
lowed to reach the maximum; that is to say, be thoroughly ripe (ready)
before the incorporation of the figs is started. A very successful method
of incorporating the figs into the dough is take, for instance, 125 pounds
figs, 25 pounds hard wheat flour, 20 pounds water (temperature 100 de-
grees), 5 ounces salt, 5 ounces yeast; mix these ingredients together so
that all are thoroughly blended, care being taken not to break up the
figs, and add this mixture to the dough at the first knockdown. Fifteen
to twenty minutes should suffice, then to the bench.
I am of the opinion that breads of this character should be baked in
sizes ranging from 12 ounces to 1 pound, but never to exceed the latter,
preferably in a bread pan with a fairly narrow bottom. The shape of the
pan has quite a bearing upon the ultimate quality and texture of the loaf,
as a series of experiments will readily show.
In compounding formulas for bakery purposes, my experience has
taught me to choose ingredients for some specific formula that bear some
relation to each other or have similar characteristics. For instance, I
cannot think of any better combination than a fine whole-wheat bread
made from straight milled Kansas or Dakota wheat with 100 pounds of
bread figs to the barrel. Baked in a pound size, preferably in a covered
pan, a few chopped walnuts sprinkled on it would make a combination
hard to beat. The combination of laxatives, the addition of a small pro-
portion of flaxseed meal, with the nuts, place it in the class of highly nu-
tritious breads. Properly merchandised a product of this kind should
have a tremendous sale.
Before undertaking the manufacture of specialty or feature breads
and products, first make up your mind to standardize the product through
careful preparation and scaling of raw materials and to bring out in your
advertising the dominant characteristics of the product manufactured.
The following fig bread formula should yield an excellent loaf if care
is taken in its preparation and the formula adhered to :
FIG BREAD (EXCELLENT)
Hard wheat flour, 175 pounds; 5*/> pounds yeast, 3 pounds salt. 5
pounds sugar, 10 pounds condensed milk, 10 pounds lard, 112 pounds
water, 6 ounces Arcady. Dissolve the yeast in a part of the water, add
the sugar. Place the balance of the water, which should register 95 to
97 degrees, in the mixer; add salt, Arcady and the flour and run for two
or three minutes. Then add the dissolved yeast and last, shortening,
which has been partly melted. Prove in a warm place until dousrh has
risen until it will recede from the touch of the hand, then add 125 pounds
bread figs, 25 pounds hard wheat flour, 5 ounces yeast. 5 ounces salt,
twenty pounds water at 95 deerrees. Mix the above ingredients carefully
but thoroughly through the dough. Prove in trough for twenty minutes,
then scale at 18 ounces and bake in one-pound bread pans.
FIG GOODS 137
WHOLE WHEAT FIG BREAD
Whole wheat flour (milled from Kansas or Dakota wheat), 175
pounds; 8 pounds sugar, 10 pounds lard, 3y 2 pounds salt, 4y 2 pounds
yeast, 120 pounds water, 4 ounces Arcady. Proceed as for white bread.
Allow to come up full to first knockdown then add 25 pounds whole wheat
flour, 100 pounds bread figs, 5 pounds chopped walnuts or almonds, 20
pounds water, 5 ounces yeast, 5 ounces salt, mixed together. Let stand
15 minutes, then to the bench. Scale at 18 ounces, make up, prove and
bake in covered pans similar to sandwich pans, approximately 2y 2 x 2y 2
x 7 inches.
FIG BARS
Four pounds brown sugar, 2 pounds shortening, 6 pounds soft flour,
5 pounds bread figs, 1 pint molasses, 1 pint eggs, 1 pint water, 2 ounces
bicarbonate soda, 1 ounce cinnamon, 1 ounce allspice, 1 ounce ginger.
Rub the shortening and sugar together in the mixing bowl ; add the eggs ;
then the molasses, water and soda ; lastly the balance of the ingredients.
Roll out in long strips on the bench approximately 1 inch in diameter;
place on sheet pans pressed down slightly with the hand ; wash with egg
and bake in oven approximately 400 degrees. Cut in sections when cool.
Sell at 20 cents per dozen.
OATMEAL FIG COOKIES
Four pounds sugar, 2% pounds shortening, 2i/> pints milk, 8 eggs,
4 pounds strong flour, 2 pounds oatmeal, 2 pounds bread figs, 1 ounce
bicarbonate of soda, 1 ounce cream of tartar, vanilla flavor, y 2 ounce salt.
This mixture can either be rolled out flat and cut out with a regular
cookie cutter 2y 2 inches in diameter or can be dropped out by hand on
lightly greased pans. Bake in oven of approximately 400 degrees.
CHOCOLATE FIG LAYER CAKE
Three pounds sugar, iy 2 pounds butter and compound, 1 quart egg
yolks, 1 quart milk, 2 ounces bicarbonate of soda, l 1 /^ ounces cream of
tartar, 3 pounds soft flour, I 1 /-? pounds bread figs, y 2 pound chopped
walnuts, 5 ounces chocolate powder. Mix up in the usual method by
rubbing the shortening and sugar to a light cream ; add the eggs ; then
the milk and the balance of ingredients. Scale at 7 ounc"es into layer
cake pans 8 inches in diameter. Fill with vanilla butter cream, through
which has been mixed some chopped figs. Cover with chocolate fondant
frosting.
FIG BRAN COOKIES
Five pounds soft flour, 3 pounds bran, 4 pounds brown sugar, 3
pounds shortening, I 1 /*? quarts milk, 2 ounces bicarbonate of soda, 3
pounds bread figs, 1 ounce salt. Rub the shortening and sugar together ;
add the milk ; then the soda and the balance of the ingredients. Cut out
with a round cutter 2y 2 inches in diameter and place on lightly greased
baking sheets. Bake in moderate oven.
MOLASSES FIG DROPS
Three and a half pounds sugar, iy> pounds shortening, iy 2 pounds
Ceylon cocoanut, 1 quart molasses, 1 quart water, 5 pounds flour, 2
pounds bread figs, l 1 /^ ounces soda. Place the shortening and sugar in
the mixing bowl and rub to a light cream; add the molasses; then the
water and soda ; then the balance of the ingredients and mix thoroughly.
138 MODERN PRACTICAL BAKING
Drop out with the hand on lightly greased pans and bake in oven of
approximately 420 degrees.
FIG BOSTON BROWN BREAD
Two and a half pounds corn meal, 3 pounds rye flour, 2% pounds
graham flour, l 1 /^ pounds white flour, 1 quart molasses, 2 quarts milk,
4 ounces soda, 2 ounces salt, 3 pounds bread figs. Place the molasses and
milk in the mixing bowl; add the soda and the salt and dissolve thor-
oughly ; add the corn meal, rye flour, graham flour, white flour and bread
figs. Scale % pound into Boston brown bread pans and bake in an oven
approximately 420 degrees.
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Do Your Baking With
QUALITY YEAST
Quality must go up not down.
The public is looking steadily for increase of
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FLEISCHMANN'S COMPRESSED YEAST
is the yeast that guarantees you uniformly
good Bread, Rolls, Doughnuts, Raised Cakes,
and every other form of baked-goods for
which yeast is used.
It produces quick, strong fermentation.
It is the magic key which unlocks the latent
goodness of all the other ingredients.
a
lone.
Do you know about Fleischmann's
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bakers solve their problems of
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Every baker who insists upon using FLEISCH-
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share to maintain quality.
And remember it is more than a leavening
t agent. Rich in life-giving vitamines and every
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FLEISCHMANN'S COMPRESSED YEAST
makes sweetest, wholesomest Bread a claim
substantiated by the standing orders of more
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ADDITIONAL RECIPES
ADDITIONAL RECIPES
ADDITIONAL RECIPES
ADDITIONAL RECIPES
ADDITIONAL RECIPES
ADDITIONAL RECIPES
ADDITIONAL RECIPES
ADDITIONAL RECIPES
ADDITIONAL RECIPES
ADDITIONAL RECIPES
ADDITIONAL RECIPES
ADDITIONAL RECIPES
ADDITIONAL RECIPES
ADDITIONAL RECIPES
