Montreal after 250 years

Bs

CO

:in

LO

:co

,CD

:co

* I** f I** f* flHR -*W P P

* Lpfefrl B .AiaJUf

250

Numbered and Signed Edition.

This copy is No..

FOND ATE. iJR DE MONTREAL 164-2

•> BY

F. E.

g0N3 •:•

. JS92.

Entered according to Act of Parliament of Canada, in the year eighteen
hundred and ninety-two, by F. E. GRAFTON & SONS, in the Office of the
Minister of Agriculture.

'WITNESS" PRINTING HOUSE,
MONTREAL,

DEDICATED

TO THE

anfc Jlnttqtmrtan §0det
ot Jttonteal:

MY FRIENDS AND FELLOW-STROLLERS
IN PLEASANT FIELDS.

LIST OF CONTENTS.
PART I.

CHAPTER I.— History of the Site.

II. — General Descriptive Outlines of the City.
III. — Squares, Parks and Cemeteries.
IV. — Public Buildings, Churches.

V. — Charitable and Religious Institutions, Universities,
Sports, Theatres, Clubs, etc.

PART II.

Historical and Legendary.

Index.

Principal Authorities, etc.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE.

Portrait of Maisonneuve - - - Frontispiece.

Plan of Town of Hochelaga - 4

Montreal from Tower of Notre Dame - - Facing 8

Victoria Bridge - . "14

C.P.R. Bridge - - " 18

Seminary of St. Sulpice - 30

Victoria Square - ... Facing 34

Chateau de Ramezay 38

Y.M.C.A. Building - 40

Windsor Hotel and Dominion Square - 43

Lachine Rapids - 47

Montreal from Mount Royal - - Facing 50

St. Gabriel Church - - 64

Old Seminary Towers - 90

Montreal Fifty Years Ago (six illustrations) - - Facing 100

Plan of Ville-Marie, 1680 - " 108

Plan of Montreal, 1759 - " 136

Jflontreal after 250 Ijears,

HISTORY OF THE SITE.

V\ IEDRICH KNICKERBOCKER approaches the subject
y of the Dutch history of New York with such
Jy respectful awe, that he commences his narrative at
the beginning of the World ! We, too, will go far back,
and say that the original site of Montreal, some hundred
million years ago, was the muddy bottom of a wide gulf
or sea; of which mud, and of the fishes swimming above
it, the crisp grey stone of her public buildings, her ware-
houses and her residences is the nineteenth-century form.
Her next shape was that of an immense and lofty
volcano-peak, energetically puffing out its thick smoke,
its molten lava and its showers of cinders — a busier spot
than it has ever been since, yet an excellent advance
notice of the manufacturing metropolis it was its inten-
tion to be, after getting duly pared down to a mere core
by the great ice-movements of glacial ages, and then

2 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

covered over with grass, trees, Indians, white men and
real estate agents.

From time immemorial there was a town here. His-
tory opens with one in full view.

When Jacques Cartier, the Columbus of Canada,
sailed up to the Island in 1535, having heard reports of
a great Town and Kingdom of Hochelaga, he found a
race of Indians living by a rude agriculture and fishing,
who dwelt in a walled village containing some 1,500
souls.

These facts, taken with their language, of which he
gives a list of words, and with their condition of peace,
tend to show that they were of a race which at some time
split into those two bitterly hostile nations, the Hurons
and the Iroquois. The latter are better known outside
of Canada as the Five Nations of New York, or, with
the Tuscaroras of Florida afterwards added, the Six
Nations.

Aboriginal Traditions.

There are two legends of the cause of the dissension.
One goes that a certain chief refused to permit his
son to marry a particular maiden. She was a beauty,
and swore never to favor any brave but he who should
kill that chief. A warrior did so, and won her. But
the race took sides in the feud, and hence arose the
long, relentless war between the two peoples.

The other story is that the Algonquins, arrogant,
nomadic hunters of a different tongue, subdued that
part of the quieter, corn-planting race afterwards called
Hurons, and induced them to join in oppressing the
Iroquois. The latter were forced to apply their talents

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 3

to the art of war, and did so with such success that, by
means of their celebrated confederacy (which they called
" The Chain "), they were about to conquer both the
Hurons and Algonquins at the period of the arrival of
Champlain.

There appears to have been more than one Indian
village on the Island. Besides the cultivated space
noticed around the Town of Hochelaga by Jacques
Cartier, Champlain found about sixty acres which had
once been tilled in the neighborhood of the present
Custom House. It is recorded also that in 1642 certain
Indians, called by the writer Algonquins (but who were
probably not), exclaimed, with a kind of melancholy
pride, to the French of Ville Marie during a pilgrimage
to the top of Mount Royal : " We are of the nation of
those who formerly inhabited this isle. Behold the
spots where there were once towns filled with many
Indians. Our enemies drove out our forefathers, and so
this Island has become desert and without inhabitant."

An old man among them said that his grandfathers
had lived there and cultivated the ground. " See," he
said, taking up a handful of earth : " The soil is good,
examine it ! " Pere Lalemant, the Jesuit missionary,
writes, in 1656, that under the Algonquin name the
French included a diversity of small peoples, among
whom was one named Ononchataronons, or the tribe
of Iroquet, "whose ancestors formerly inhabited the
Island of Montreal, and who seem to have some desire
to repossess it as their country." Again : " An old
man, aged, say, 80 years, retired to Montreal. ' Here/
said he, ' is my country : my mother told me that in her

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 5

youth, the Hurons drove us from this Island : I wish to
.be buried near my forefathers.'"

The original description by Jacques Cartier of what
he saw is as follows :

" How the Captain and the gentlemen, with twenty-five
men, well armed and in good order, ^cvent to the Toivn of
Hochelaga, and of the situation of the said place.

" The next day at early dawn the Captain arrayed
himself and put his men in order, to go and see the
town and dwelling of the said people, and a mountain
which is adjacent to the said town, whither went with
the said Captain the gentlemen and twenty mariners,
and left the rest for the guard of the barques, and took
three men of the said town of Hochelaga to take and
conduct them to the said place. And we being on the
road found it as beaten as it was possible to see, in the
most beautiful soil and the finest plain : oaks as fair as
there are any in forest of France, under which all the
ground was covered with acorns. And we, having gone
about a league and a half, found on the road one of the
principal Lords of the said Town of Hochelaga with
several persons, who made sign to us that we must rest
there near a fire which they had made on the said road.
And then commenced the said Lord to make a sermon
and preaching, as hereinbefore has been told to be their
way of making joy and acquaintance in making that
Lord dear to the said Captain and his company, which
Captain gave him a couple of axes and knives, with a
Cross and a reminder of the Crucifix, which he made
him kiss and hung at his neck : whereof he returned
thanks to the Captain. That done, we walked on

6 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

further, and about a half league thence we commenced
to find the lands tilled and fair large fields full of corn
of their lands, which is like Brazil rice, as large, or
more, than peas, whereof they live as we do on wheat.
And in the midst of those fields is situated and fixed
the said Town of Hochelaga, near and joining a
mountain which is in its neighborhood, well tilled and
exceeding fertile ; therefrom one sees very far. We
named that mountain Mont Royal The said town is
quite round and palisaded with wood in three rows, in
form of a pyramid, interlaced above, having the middle
row in perpendicular, then lined with wood laid along,
well joined and corded in their mode, and it is of the
height of about two lances. And there is in that town
but one gate and entrance, which shuts with bars,
on which and in several places on said palisade is a kind
of galleries, with ladders to mount them, which are
furnished with rocks and stones for the guard and
defence thereof. There are in that town about fifty
houses each at most about fifty paces long and twelve
or fifteen paces wide, all made of wood, covered and
furnished in great pieces of bark as large as tables, well
sewed artificially after their manner ; and in them are
several halls and chambers ; and in the middle of said
houses is a great hall on the ground, where they make
their fire and live in common ; then they retire to their
said chambers, the men with their wives and children.
And likewise, they have granaries above their houses
where they put their corn, whereof they make their
bread they call Ccaraconi. .... This people devote
themselves only to tillage and fishing, to live : for they

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 7

make no account of the goods of this life, because they
have no knowledge of them, and do not leave their
country, and are not wandering like those of Canada
and Saguenay, notwithstanding that the said Canadians
are subject to them, together with eight or nine other
peoples who are on the said River."

The Hochelagans made much of Cartier, and brought
him into the middle of their town to the public square,
which was, he says, a good stone's throw from side to
side. All the women kissed him, weeping for joy.
The men then sat in order around, and the Agouhanna,
or " lord and king of the country," was brought in on
men's shoulders, wearing a porcupine head-dress. He
was about fifty years old and palsied, and begged
Cartier to touch and cure him. All the other sick also
did so. He recited the first words of the Gospel of St.
John, made the sign of the cross, and opening a service-
book, read to them the entire passion of Christ, to which
they attended gravely. He made a distribution of
presents, and on leaving was taken to the top of Mount
Royal, " about a quarter of a league from the town,"
where he was delighted with the view. After getting
some rude geographical information from the people, he
returned to his boats accompanied by a great multitude
of them, who, when they saw any of his men weary,
would take them on their shoulders and carry them on.

The Town of Hochelaga is one of the mysterious
mirages of history, for, large though it was, it thence-
forth completely disappears from record, with all its
dusky warriors, its great square and its large maize
fields. The very spot on which it stood — nearly in front

8 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

of- McGill Grounds on Sherbrooke Street, towards
Metcalfe — was unknown until a few years ago, when it
was accidentally re-discovered. In the words of one of
those who took part :

" The memory of the place had remained forgotten
for three hundred years, until, Herculaneum-like, it was
discovered by men excavating for foundations. First a
skeleton was brought to light in a sitting posture, then
other skeletons ; then specimens of pottery. On a
more careful search being made by local antiquarians,
the rubbish-heap of the town was found. This con-
sisted of broken pottery and pipes, with bones of the
animals used as food, besides the fragments of other
items in their bill of fare. Much of the habits of the
old townspeople was gathered from these researches.
But the whole work was desultory, being left to the
caprice of individuals. So far only the western border
was touched upon — that by the brook, which, running
through McGill College Grounds, passed down by
Metcalfe Street." *

A tablet on the latter street, near Sherbrooke, marks
the place where most of the relics were found, and reads
as follows : " Site of a large Indian village, claimed to
be the Town of Hochelaga visited by Jacques Cartier

in I535-"

La Place Royale.

The next white man to visit the Island was Samuel
de Champlain, founder and first Governor of Canada, in
1611. He reached here, with an Indian and a French-

* R. W. McLachlan, Esq.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 9

man, on the 28th of May, and, struck with the site,
selected it at once for a city.

" After having moved about in one direction and
another," he says, " as well in the woods as along the
shore, to find a place suitable for the site of a dwelling
whereon to prepare a spot for building, I walked eight
leagues, skirting the great rapids, through the woods,
which are open enough, and came as far as a lake to
which our Savage led me, where I considered the
country very closely. But, in all that I saw, I found no
place more' suitable than a little spot, which is as far as
barques and boats can easily come up, unless with a
strong wind or by a circuit, because of the great current ;
for higher than that place (which I named La Place
Royale), a league away from Mount Royal, there are
quantities of small rocks and ledges, which are very
dangerous. And near the said Place Royal there is a
little river which goes some distance into the interior, all
along which there are more than sixty acres of deserted
land, which are like meadows, where grain can be sown
and gardens made. Formerly the savages tilled these,
but they abandoned them on account of the wars they
had there.

" Having, therefore, made particular examination and
found this place one of the most beautiful on that river,
I immediately had the wood cut and cleared away from
the said Place Royale to make it even and ready for
building, and anyone can pass water around it easily and
make a little isle of it, and settle down there as he desires.

"There is a little island twenty rods from the said
Place Royale, which is over 100 paces long, where one

10 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

could make a good and strong dwelling. There is also
much meadow-land of very good rich pottery clay, as
well for brick as for building, which is a great conveni-
ence. I made use of a part of it, and built a wall there
four feet thick and three to four high and ten rods long
to test how it would keep during winter when the waters
descend, which, in my opinion, would not come up to
said wall, seeing that the bank is elevated twelve feet
above said river, which is high enough. In the middle
of the river there is an island about three-quarters of a
league in circuit, fit for the building of a good and
strong town, and I named it the Isle of Saincte
Heleine. The rapids come down into a sort of lake,
where there are two or three islands and fine meadow-
lands.

" While awaiting the Savages, I there made two
gardens, one in the meadows and the other in the
woods, which I cleared, and the second day of June I
sowed some grains, which all came up in perfection and
in a short time, demonstrating the goodness of the
ground.'

When we approach the neighborhood where he landed,
and remember that the city was planned and even
begun by so grand a man, the honor of his name and
his character throws for us its halo about the place.

The fascinating story of the ultimate foundation of
the city will be told in succeeding pages.

CHAPTER II.

GENERAL DESCRIPTIVE OUTLINES OF THE CITY.

THE leading characteristics of the Montreal of to-
.
day are :
Its magnificent situation,
Its historic riches,
Its commercial activity,

The cosmopolitan charm of its division of
languages and populations. It is, in this
respect, the Alexandria of the West.
Few cities, if any, surpass it in situation. Past it, in
front, sweeps the stately River of Rivers, the St.
Lawrence, two miles in breadth, bearing down to the
Gulf one-third of the fresh waters of the globe ; in rear
rises Mount Royal, its sides clothed with foliage, its
recesses full of beautiful drives and views ; and round
about the city lies the extensive and fertile Island of
Montreal, thirty-two miles long by nine wide, bordered
with a succession of lovely bays, hamlets and watering-
places. Commercially, the town is, and has always been,

12 MONTREAL AFTER 2$0 YEARS.

the metropolis of Canada. Seated at the head of ocean
navigation, its sway as such extends over by far the
largest portion of North America. Its connections have
a notable influence on the western trade of the United
States. It is backed by the great lake and canal system,
which connects it with Chicago, Duluth and the cities of
the interior of the continent, to which some day, by a
short and easy cut, will, no doubt, be added those of the
Mississippi. It is the headquarters of, among others,
two of the greatest of railways — the Canadian Pacific,
which runs from the Atlantic to the Pacific Oceans, and
is the longest in the world, and its rival, the Grand
Trunk. Its population, with the adjuncts which pro-
perly form part of it, amounts to a little under 300,000
souls, rapidly increasing. Though 620 miles from the
sea, Montreal is a great seaport.

Looking around from the top of the towers of Notre
Dame, one might say to himself: "This city is the
Mother of the cities of the West. Yonder was the birth-
place of the founder of New Orleans, the home of
La Salle, of Duluth, of La Mothe Cadillac the founder
of Detroit, Mackenzie, Fraser, Alexander Henry, and of
the famous Scotch fur-kings, who governed the fate of
the North- West. There is the greatest River in the
world. Crossing it is a bridge that was long the
engineering wonder of the world. There are the head-
quarters of the greatest railway in the world. Here is
the strongest Bank on the continent. Nearer still is the
wealthiest institution on the continent, the Seminary of
St. Sulpice. In this tower is the largest bell on the
continent." And so on.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 13

The city's most pleasing source of interest, however,
is its historical spots and associations, for in such there
is scarcely a town in America richer, though, as in most
active places, the march of progress has removed only
too many of the old houses, churches and streets. To
what remain, we hope to conduct the reader. Among
additional attractions of Montreal is McGill University,
while the churches and charitable institutions and the
athletic sports of the place are celebrated over the
world.

The population at the end of French rule in 1760 was
some 3,000 ; in 1809, about 12,000. To-day it is, as
already stated, verging on 300,000. Its shipping trade,
founded on the ancient annual barter between the
Indian tribes here, amounted in 1840 to 31,266 tons
burden, in 1891 to some 2,000,000 tons, nearly equally
divided betwreen ocean-going and inland vessels ; while
the number of its transatlantic steamship lines was 15,
and the capital of its 11 banks $43,583,000.

The Harbour.— Prior to 1851 only vessels under 600
tons, and drawing not more than 1 1 feet of water, could
pass up to Montreal ; but, by degrees culminating
lately, a channel 27^ feet deep has been dredged all
the way up, so as to admit of the largest ships reaching
the port from the Atlantic Ocean. At the same time,
the inland canals have been deepened to 14 feet.
Immense shipments of grain, lumber and cattle are
exported by these means, and general imports return in
exchange. Steam navigation was introduced early. In
1807 Fulton launched the first steamboat in America on
the Hudson. Two years later, after correspondence

14 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

with Fulton, an enterprising citizen launched here the
first steamboat on the St. Lawrence. A tablet records
his act as follows : " To the Honorable John Molson,
the Father of Steam Navigation on the St. Lawrence.
He launched the steamer 'Accommodation/ for Montreal
and Quebec service, 1809."

At the upper end of the harbour enters the Lachine
Canal, begun in 1821, after many delays and misgivings,
yet at first but 5 feet deep and 48 wide at the water-
line, and 28 at the bottom. Still, it was then wider and
deeper than any similar work in England, and was
considered a superior piece of masonry work.

The Victoria Bridge, crossing just above the harbour,
was, when erected, " the greatest work of engineering
skill in the world." The idea was the conception of a
man foremost in advancing the trade of the town and
its public works, the late Honorable John Young ; and
the work itself was designed by the celebrated English
engineer, Robert Stephenson. It is erected in strong
tubular form, resting on heavy stone abutments, cal-
culated to stand the ice-crushes of spring, and was
inaugurated publicly by the Prince of Wales in 1860.
It " consists," says the inscription on a medal struck at
the time, "of 23 spans 242 feet each, and one in centre
330 feet, with a long abutment on each bank of the
River. The tubes are iron, 22 feet high, 16 feet wide,
and weigh 6,000 tons, supported on 24 piers containing
250,000 tons of stone measuring 3,000,000 cubit feet.
Extreme length, 2 miles ; cost, $7,000,000." These
figures and its massive construction show it to be many
times more expensive and solid than present-day science

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 1 5

would consider necessary for the purpose, and may be
contrasted with the light cantilever bridge of the Cana-
dian Pacific Railway at Lachine. It was built for the
Grand Trunk Railway of Canada, of which it remains
the property. Victoria Bridge is, in many respects, a
study in itself, the nice allowance for expansion and
contraction by temperature, the tons of paint applied to
it, the half-ton of annual rust scraped off, and many
other details, are food for curiosity and thought. All
the iron came out from England, each piece marked for
its place, the stone mostly from Pointe Claire. In an
enclosure near the entrance to the bridge an immense
boulder attracts curiosity. It bears an inscription stating
that it was erected as a monument by the workmen
engaged in building the bridge to the memory of 6,000
immigrants who died in one year of ship fever. The
boulder was taken out of the bed of the River.

As the eye ranges about the harbour, it is caught by
the long range of solid stone buildings which form the
front of the city, by the great grain elevaters grouped
at each end of the view, by the domes, towers and spires
of the Bonsecours Market, Bonsecours Church, Notre
Dame, the Custom House, and the Harbor Commis-
sioners' Building, and the serried masts and the smoke-
stacks of many iron steamships crowding the wharves.
The landscape is one also full of history and tragedy.

(The Canadian Pacific Railway Bridge referred to, at Lachine,
seven miles above, was completed in 1887. It is composed of 2 abutments
and 15 piers. There are 4 land spans of 80 feet ; the rest are 240 each,
except the deep-water portion, consisting of 2 flanking spans of 270 feet
and 2 cantilever, each 408, forming one continuous truss 1,356 feet long.)

1 6 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

Many a pre-historic savage fight must have taken place
in the neighborhood : many a canoe of painted warriors
have crept stealthily along the shores. On the shores
round about, many a party of the settlers was murdered
by the Iroquois in the earliest days of the colony. Two
lost their lives in the same manner on St. Helen's Island
just opposite ; and on Moffatt's, or Isle-a-la-Pierre, Father
Guillaume Vignal was slain by an Iroquois ambush during
a fierce battle on the opening of a quarry in 1659. On
the Longueuil bank opposite might, during the i8th
century, have been descried the towers, walls and chapel
spire of the finest feudal castle in New France. At St.
Lambert there was a palisaded fort. Laprairie, far over
to the south, across the water, was the scene, in 1691, of
the celebrated and desperate battle of Laprairie, the first
land attack by British colonists upon Canada. To the
port came Indian traders for a generation before the
founding of the city. Thither in succeeding days came
down the processions of huge canoes of gaily-singing
voyageurs, returning from a year's adventurous trading
in the pathless regions of the West to the annual two
months' fair at Montreal.

To speak of the Harbour is to speak of the River,
which recalls a remark made in an antiquated descrip
tion of Montreal. "A striking feature in this majestic
stream," says Hochelaga Depicta, " independently of its
magnitude, has always been the theme of just admira-
tion. The Ottawa joins the St. Lawrence above, and
thenceforward they unite their streams. But though
they flow in company, each preserves its independence
as low down as Three Rivers, ninety miles below

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. I/

Montreal From any elevated part of the

shore the spectator may discern the beautiful green
tinge of the St. Lawrence on the farther side, and the
purplish brown of the Ottawa on the half of the River
nearest to him."

The city proper occupies only about 7,000 acres in
area, being densely populated by reason of the climate.
It is colloquially divided into " Uptown " and " Down-
town," separated by an indefinite line about Dorchester
Street. " East-end " and " West-end " are also terms
frequently used, and the line is about Bleury Street. A
convenient landmark is the intersection of the city by
two principal business streets — St. Catherine, running
across it from east to west, and St. Lawrence, from north
to south.

The population is divided into three chief race
divisions, coinciding also with religious lines: "English,"
inhabiting mainly the West-end, numbering about
60,000, and comprising a population much more
decidedly Scottish than English in extraction ; French,
in number about 150,000, inhabiting principally the
East-end, but also considerable portions of the lower
levels of the West-end, as well as the adjoining cities of
Ste. Cunegonde and St. Henri de Montreal ; and
" Irish," that is, Irish Roman Catholic, inhabiting the
region known as " Griffintown," west of McGill Street,
and numbering about 40,000.

The principal residential quarter is the " West-end,"
especially around and above Sherbrooke Street, which is
the finest residence thoroughfare, though perhaps soon to
be outdone by Pine and Cedar Avenues, on Mount Royal.

1 8 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

Architecturally, the city presents a solid appearance
resembling that of the commercial British cities, the
prevailing material being an admirable grey limestone,
obtained from quarries in the neighborhood, relieved
occasionally by stones of richer color, and for the
cheaper buildings by a plain red brick.

The value of real estate in the town is approximately
$150,000,000. The total annual revenue is $2,225,000,
and is levied chiefly by an assessment of I per cent, on
realty for civic purposes, 1-5 of I per cent, for schools, water
rates, and business duty of 7}^ per cent, on the rentals.
Religious and benevolent institutions are exempt from
taxation. The civic debt is over $16,000,000, and is
limited to 15 per cent, of the assessed value of the real
estate, a limit nearly reached. The debt is very largely
represented, however, by valuable assets, such as Parks,
City Hall, Fire Stations and Waterworks.

Having thus outlined the Montreal of to-day, a word
remains about the Montreal of the future. No one can
doubt that Nature intends a great city here. The head of
ocean navigation on so matchless a waterway as the St.
Lawrence — a seaport six hundred miles inland — with
behind it the whole " north coast " of the United States,
and such teeming cities as Chicago, Detroit, Buffalo,
Toledo and Duluth, as well as the commerce of Canada,
her growth must be great, steady and certain. History
has always said so in the constant importance and
steady advance of this point. The hopefulness, the
pride of the Montrealer can only find full expression in
verse :

IV vc .

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 19

Reign on, majestic Ville-Marie !

Spread wide thy ample robes of state ;

The heralds cry that thou art great,
And proud are thy young sons of thee.
Mistress of half a continent,

Thou risest from thy girlhood's rest ;

We see thee conscious heave thy breast
And feel thy rank and thy descent.
Sprung of the saint and chevalier,

And with the Scarlet Tunic wed !

Mount Royal's crown upon thy head,
And past thy footstool, broad and clear,

St. Lawrence sweeping to the sea :

Reign on, majestic Ville-Marie !

CHAPTER III.

SQUARES, PARKS AND CEMETERIES.
/. — Squares.

/Custom House Square, a little space on the river
|~ front, is interesting on account of the early historical

V scenes associated with it, for it is the oldest square
in Montreal. Most of its original extent is occupied by
the Inland Revenue Building, or Old Custom House, a
tablet upon which reads : " The first Public Square of
Montreal, 1657 — 'La Place du Marche' — Granted by
the Seigneurs, 16/6." Here the French executions took
place, of which one, described further on under " The
Legend of the Croix Rouge," may be taken as an
example. Facing the river one obtains, from the harbour
ramp, a fine view of the large ocean shipping and maze
of other craft which crowd the port, and look strange so
far inland. To the right is seen the broad Foundling
Street, the former bed of one of the two branches of
the Little River of Montreal, which meandered from

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 21

Lachine, this branch running into the St. Lawrence
here. It was covered over some two generations ago,
but still flows underneath the street.

The Custom House, the handsome towered building
of triangular form which stands upon the little cape
once made by this stream with the St. Lawrence, is to
the Montrealer something of what the Capitol was to
Rome ; for here Samuel de Champlain, that undaunted
and patient Governor who founded Quebec and made
French Canada, sojourned in i6ii,when on the look-
out for the site for a town, planted two gardens, built
walls of clay, and, as we have previously narrated, called
the spot La Place Royale. Traders with the Indians
thenceforward made this convenient point their annual
resort, until, in 1642, the town was founded.

The Foundation of Montreal.

The story in brief is as follows : Jean Jacques Olier, a
dainty courtier abb£ of Paris, having become religiously
awakened, renounced his worldly enjoyments and vani-
ties, and threw himself with fervor into new movements
of Catholic piety originated by himself. He distinguished
himself, to the great disgust of his aristocratic friends,
by an unwonted care of the popular wants as curt of the
large Parish of St. Sulpice in Paris. He then took up
the work of organizing, the education of young priests,
and established to that end, as the first of many such,
the Seminary of St. Sulpice at Paris. Accounts of the
heathen tribes about the Island of Montreal having
reached him, his fervent meditations conceived the
project of founding a mission in that region ; and when

22 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

travelling, about this time, he met one de la Dauversiere,
a receiver of taxes in Brittany, who, it appeared, had
been taken up with much the same idea. Divine
miracle, it was believed, lit the project simultaneously in
their breasts and brought the two together, for though
they were strangers, they seemed immediately to recog-
nize each other, and rushed into an embrace. "It was
at Meudon," says a modern French writer, " at the door
of the Palace, whither the Sieur de la Dauversiere had
come to request the aid of the Minister for his enterprise.
The two men, who had never before seen each other,
illumined suddenly by a light within, fall into each
other's arms, call each other by name, treat each other
like brothers, relate their mutual plans, speak at length
of this colony of Montreal (which was still but an
unknown island), with topographical details so exact
that one would have said they had passed long years
together there."

They obtained the aid of a number of wealthy and
noble persons of the court, including the Duchesse de
Bullion, and these were formed into a society known as
the Company of Our Lady of Montreal (Compagnie de
Notre Dame de Montreal).

About the same time a young nun of great devotion
and much given to ecstasies and visions, Mademoiselle
Jeanne Mance by name, believed herself called in a
vision to go ta the same place, and there to found a
convent and mission. To her, too, the miraculous is
ascribed. " God lifting for her the veils of space, showed
to her, while yet in France, in a divine vision, the shores
of our isle, and the site of Ville Marie at the foot of its

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 23

Mountain and on the shore of its great River" " Why,"
says a later writer, " should we refuse to believe this
tale?"

Combining crusader and martyr spirits, they purposely
chose the most dangerous outpost, and to that end
acquired the Island of Montreal, then uninhabited,
distant and exposed to the incursions of the powerful
Iroquois. Paul de Chomedy, Sieur de Maisonneuve, a
gentleman of Champagne, and a brave and ascetic
knight of the mediaeval school, was entrusted with the
command. He landed, with the Governor, De Mont-
magny, Father Vimont a Jesuit, Mile. Mance, another
woman and fifty-five male colonists, on the i8th of
May, 1642, a momentous day for Montreal. Tents
were pitched, camp fires lighted, evening fell, and mass
was held. Fire-flies, caught and imprisoned in a phial
upon the altar, served as lights, and the little band were
solemnly addressed by Vimont in words which included
these : " You are a grain of mustard seed that shall rise
and grow till its branches overshadow the earth. You
are few, but your work is the work of God. His smile
is upon you, and your children shall fill the land." Two
tablets on the front of the Custom House record the
above facts as follows : " This Site was selected and
named in 1611 La Place Royale, by Samuel de Cham-
plain, the Founder of Canada ; " and, " Near this spot,
on the 1 8th day of May, 1642, landed the Founders of
Montreal, commanded by Paul de Chomedy, Sieur de
Maisonneuve : Their first proceeding was a religious
service."

The new settlement was named Ville Marie, in honor

24 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

of the patron saint of the fraternity, " The Queen of
Heaven." As they held that the Island was peopled by
demons, they sang the Te Deum very loudly and
defiantly and fired cannon to drive them away, and had
the good fortune to do so.

A picket fort was commenced and mounted with
cannon, and this enclosure, known sometimes as the
Fort de Ville-Marie, stood on Commissioners' Street,
just behind the thoroughfare in rear of the Custom House,
known as Port Street, where another tablet records its
site thus : " Here was the Fort of Ville-Marie, first
dwelling-place of the Founders of Ville-Marie, built
1643, demolished 1648. Replaced by the House of
Monsieur de Callieres, 1686."

For nearly a quarter of a century the inhabitants
could not leave its limits without danger of an attack
from the Iroquois foes, with whom the French were at
war. The Legendary Dog of Ville-Marie, Pilote by
name, was accustomed to take her daily rounds among
the woods in this neighborhood, with her litter of pups,
hunting about for lurking Iroquois. Many a spot in the
present city can be pointed out as the scene of the
death of some member of the little community, and
every acre in this neighborhood has been covered by
hostile footsteps. The spirit of chivalry which was
dying out in Europe was transplanted hither, and has
made the early history of Montreal a tale of romance
and danger approached by that of no other new-world
town.

Near by, on Foundling Street, is a tablet marking the
site of the Residence of Governor de Callieres, which

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 25

replaced the Fort de Ville-Marie : " Site of the Chateau
of Louis Hector de Callieres, Governor of Montreal
1684, of New France 1698—1703. He terminated the
fourteen years' war with the Iroquois by treaty at
Montreal, 1701." Callieres was the staunchest Governor
New France ever had except Frontenac. Charlevoix
declares him to have been even better as a general.

Behind the square, somewhat later, stood the first
Manor House, for the Island had its feudal lords.
These were the Gentlemen of the Seminary of St.
Sulpice, as they are still called, who yet retain a faint
semblance of the position. The site of the first Manor
House is in the small court of Frothingham & Work-
man, reached by an open passage from St. Paul Street.
The tablet upon the present warehouse reads as follows :
" Upon this foundation stood the first Manor House of
Montreal, built 1661, burnt 1852, re-built 1853. It was
the Seminary of St. Sulpice from 1661 to 1712. Resi-
dence of de Maisonneuve, Governor of Montreal, and
of Pierre Raimbault, Civil and Criminal Lieutenant-
General."

Under the regime of the latter it was also the prison.

A block deeper within the city than Custom House
Square is

The Place d'Armes — The centre of the city's life.
At no other spot do so many interests — English, French,
business, historical, religious — meet. In the centre
stands* the statue of Maisonneuve. It is of bronze,
and represents him in the cuirass and French costume

* Or, rather (February, 1892), is to stand.

26 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

of the 1 7th century, holding the fleur-de-lys banner.
The pedestal, of granite, shows the inscription : " Paul
de Chomedy de Maisonneuve, Foundateur de Montreal,
164.2." It rests upon a fountain, and displays several
bas-reliefs, representing respectively : (i), Maisonneuve
killing the Indian Chief; (2), the founding of Ville-
Marie ; (3), the death of Lambert Closse, Town Major
of the devoted band, who had hoped for a death fighting
the Heathen, and who, in fact, so died, defending his
own enclosure near St. Lambert Hill ; (4), the still more
heroic death of Dollard, who fell with his companions at
the Long Sault of the Ottawa, and so saved the colony.
At the four corners of the base are four life-size bronze
figures, representing respectively an Indian, a colonist's
wife, a colonist, with the legendary dog Pilote, and a
soldier.

Facing the square from Notre Dame Street stand the
tall and stiff facade and towers of the Parish Church,
Ndtre Dame de Montreal, a building not beautiful, but
which all admit to be impressive. The style is a com-
posite Gothic, an adaptation of different varieties to one
severe design, of a French trend, though the architect
was a Protestant named O'Donnell. He afterwards
became a Roman Catholic, and is buried in the vaults
beneath. The interior, from its breadth, its ampleness,
its rich decorations, and the powerful appearance of its
two great tiers of galleries, is still more impressive than
the front. The wealth of the adjoining Seminary, its
proprietors, has been freely spent upon it, as well as the
revenues of a vast congregation, and, holding as it
sometimes does at great celebrations, not far from 15,000

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 2J

people, it is the chief temple of a whole race. Among
the objects to be noticed are : The Baptistery, to the
right on entering, especially its exquisite stained glass
windows; the small altar-picture of the black Virgin, the
original of which is attributed by legend to the brush of
St. Luke, and is claimed to be miracle-working ; the
beautiful wood-carving under it of the Entombment of
Christ ; a small marble statue, given by Pope Pius IX.,
on the pillar near the Grand Altar, and for praying
before which the inscription promises an indulgence of
100 days from purgatory ; the bronze St. Peter at the
opposite pillar, whose foot is kissed by the faithful in the
same manner as the original statue in St. Peter's at
Rome ; and others in great variety. The Grand Altar
proper is a fine piece of work from the artistic point of
view, and the white carved groups upon it, representing
the Redeemer's sacrifice in various forms, are notable.
They are by a modern German master. Some Venetian
figures at the sides, above the choir, are, however, in
very bad taste. Above this altar one may catch a
glimpse, through the opening, of the richly-carved new
Gothic Lady-Chapel in rear, which is reached by passing
through the doors near at hand, and though somewhat
overgilt, well merits inspection. The organ, a new one,
built by the Brothers Casavant, of St. Hyacinthe, is
claimed to be the finest on the continent, and the
splendid orchestra and choir make it a rare musical
treat to attend one of the great festival services, Christ-
mas, Epiphany, Easter and others. The towers are 227
feet high. The ascent part-way is made by means of an
elevator in the west tower, as far up as the great bell,

28 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

" Le Gros Bourdon," which is only sounded on the most
solemn occasions, such as the death of a Pope, and is the
largest bell in America. Its weight is 24,780 pounds.
Ten other large bells are found in the opposite tower ;
1 8 men are required to ring them. Ascending further,
to the top of the west tower, the finest obtainable view
of the harbor and lower town is had.

The earliest church of Montreal was one of bark,
built in the original Fort. This was replaced in 1656
by the first Parish Church, on the north corner of the
present St. Sulpice and St. Paul Streets, where a tablet
marks its site thus : " Here was the first Parish Church
of Ville-Marie, erected in 1656." In 1672 the latter was
in its turn replaced by what is now known as the Old
Parish Church, which stood across Notre Dame Street.
Its picturesque belfry tower remained alone on the
corner of the square for some years after the removal of
the old church, but was taken down about 1840. The
foundations yet exist under the south gate of the
square. The cut-stone front, designed by King's Engi-
neer, De Lery, the same who erected the stone fortifica-
tion walls of the city, and who also designed the
Cathedral of Quebec, was, when taken down, used as a
front for the Recollets Church, and after the demolition
of the latter, was incorporated in the back walls of the
store upon its site, where some of the pieces are still to
be seen. The furniture and pictures were sent to the
Church of Bonsecours, and the pulpit chair of the
Unitarian Church is made out of timbers of the tower.
A tablet on the adjoining wall of the Seminary reads :
" The second Parish Church of Ville-Marie, built in

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 29

1672, dedicated 1678, and demolished in 1829, occu-
pied the middle of Notre Dame Street."

A whimsical "legend" has long been told of the corner
of the present Church, on St. Sulpice Street, where
there is always a little breeze, even in the hottest weather.

The Devil and the Wind, runs the story, were walking
down Notre Dame Street, when this Church had just
been built. " Why," said the Devil, " what is this ? I
never saw this before." " I dare you to go in," replied
the Wind. " You dare me, do you ? You wait here till
I come out," cried the Devil. " I'll be at the corner,"
said the Wind. His Majesty went in. He has never
yet come out, and the Wind has remained ever since
waiting for him at the corner.

The quaint, black-faced Seminary of St. Sulpice,
erected in 1710, adjoins the Parish Church. Its revenues
are immense, but the amount is never made public.
The Seminary at Paris, of which this is a branch,
obtained the Island from De Maisonneuve's Association
in 1663 under charge of keeping up church services and
providing for education. The building contains the
baptismal and other registers of the city from the
beginning, besides uncounted wealth of other historical
treasures. The old fleur-de-lys still caps its pinnacles,
old French roof-curves cover the walls, and as the priests
nearly all come from France, there is a complete old-
world flavor about the institution. In the words of
Charlevoix, it was " a stately, great and pleasant House,
built of Free-stone, after the model of that of St.
Sulpice at Paris ; and the Altar stands by itself, just
like that at Paris."

30 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

The tablets here read : " The Seminary of St. Sulpice,
founded at Paris, by Monsieur Jean Jacques Olier, 1641 ;
established at Ville-Marie, 1657, Monsieur Gabriel de
Oueylus, Superior. Seigneurs of the Island of Montreal,
1663." And : " Frangois Dollier de Casson, First His-
torian of Montreal, Captain under Marshal de Turenne,
then Priest of St. Sulpice during 35 years. He died, in
1701, cure of the Parish."

SEMINARY OF ST. SULPICE.

The latter tablet refers to a most attractive, pleasant
and somewhat whimsical narrator — Dollier de Casson —
on whose Histoire du Montreal all the completer his-
torians largely draw.

Opposite Notre Dame are the Bank of Montreal and
the Imperial Insurance Building. To the north, the tall
red stone building is that of the New York Life
Insurance Company, from the tower of which a good

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 31

view may be obtained. On the south corner, the promi-
nent .edifice is that of the Royal Insurance Company.
On the east corner is one of the Antiquarian Society's
tablets, on the site of a dwelling of the famous Du Luth,
reading as follows : " Here lived, in 1675, Daniel de
Gresolon, Sieur Dulhut, one of the explorers of the
Upper Mississippi ; after whom the City of Duluth was
named."

The face of the Imperial Building shows two tablets,
one of which reads : " Near this Square, afterwards
named La Place d'Armes, the founders of Ville-Marie
first encountered the Iroquois, whom they defeated,
Chomedy de Maisonneuve killing the Chief with his own
hands, 30 March, 1644."

The story is that one winter, de Maisonneuve, being
besieged in the fort by his savage foes, kept his people
shut up out of harm's way. Some of them charged him
with cowardice, and insisted on being led forth. Finally
he acceded. The woods hereabout suddenly swarmed
with yelling savages, and the French, to avoid a massacre,
broke for the fort. Maisonneuve was the last to with-
draw, and, as he did so, he fought hand-to-hand with a
gigantic chief, who hurled himself upon the commander,
eager for distinction as the bravest " brave." Maison-
neuve withstood and slew him in single combat, and
then retired slowly to the fort. Thenceforward those
who had maligned him were silenced. It is disputed
whether this neighborhood or Custom House Square
was the approximate scene of the conflict ; but the
distance between the two is not great, in the direct line.

The other inscription records the interesting fact that

32 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

the Imperial Building stands upon the second lot granted
on the Island of Montreal. The first was another on
the same square — the property adjoining the Royal
Insurance Company's — which still belongs to a male
lineal descendant of the original grantee, Father Toupin
of St. Patrick's Church.

On this square the French, American and British
armies have successively paraded as possessors of the
town, and here the French army solemnly surrendered
its arms, in the presence of the troops of Amherst, in
1760.

The Bank of Montreal, with a capital and rest of
$18,000,000, is said to be the strongest financial institu-
tion in America. Its fine Corinthian structure, noted
for its classical purity of line, looks like the spirit of
ancient Greece among the modern edifices by which it is
surrounded. Originally it possessed a dome. The
counting-room is fitted and frescoed with scenes from
Canadian history, such as to repay examination. The
Bank was organized in 1817, and is the oldest bank in
Canada. The sculpture on the pediment in front is the
work of John Steel, R.S.A., her Majesty's sculptor in
Scotland. The arms of the Bank, with the motto
" Concordia Salus," forms the centre of the group. On
each side is an Indian, one barbaric, the other becoming
civilized. The other two figures are a settler and a
sailor, the former with a pipe of peace in his hand,
reclining upon logs and surrounded by the implements
of industry and culture. The sailor is pulling at a rope,
and is appropriately surrounded with the emblems of
commerce. Upon the building a tablet reads : " The

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 33

Stone Fortifications of Ville-Marie extended from Dal-
housie Square through this site to McGill Street, thence
south to Commissioners Street, and along the latter to
the before-mentioned Square. Begun 1721 by Chausse-
gros de Lery. Demolished 1817."

Next to the Bank of Montreal is the Post Office, a
handsome building in the Renaissance style, now too
small for the volume of business.

Opposite it is some of the Seminary's real estate — a
striking illustration of the non-progressiveness of old
tenures.

Passing westward along St. James Street, we come to
Victoria Square, situated at the foot of Beaver Hall
Hill, and intersected by Craig Street. Leading mercan-
tile houses surround it. It receives its name from the
beautiful bronze statue of Queen Victoria, by the
English sculptor, Marshall Wood. Looking upwards
from the foot of the square, one sees a bit of Mount
Royal in the distance, while nearer by are a range of
church spires, being respectively, counting from left
to right, St. Andrew's Presbyterian, the Reformed
Episcopal, Christ Church Cathedral, the Church of the
Messiah (facing from Beaver Hall Hill), and St. Patrick's.
This square was the old-time Haymarket It is a busy
neighborhood, on the edge of the heart of the town, and
is crossed at morning and evening by the principal
business people who reach the West-End by Beaver
Hall Hill. On the Unitarian Church on the hill a tablet
runs : " Here stood Beaver Hall, built 1800, burnt 1848 ;
Mansion of Joseph Frobisher, one of the founders of
The North- West Company, which made Montreal for

34 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

years the fur-trading centre of America." This building,
celebrated only as a landmark, was a long wooden
cottage facing down the slope, and was partly protected
in front by tall poplar trees. It was the nearest to town
of the pleasant suburban seats of the Old North-Westers
which covered the slopes of Mount Royal.

Fortification Lane commences at this square, and
marks the line of the old French fortifications. They
were of stone, in bastioned form, running along the
course of this lane, to its end, then across the Champ de
Mars, and eastward, to include Dalhousie Square, by the
Quebec Gate Station. Thence they returned along the
water front to the present McGill Street, which was their
westerly limit. The exits were few, being the Recollet
Gate at this end and the Quebec at the other, with the
St. Lawrence Gate on the land side and several openings
on the river, called the Small, the Market, the St.
Mary's and the Water Gate. Craig Street was then a
suburban swamp, with a branch of the Little River
running through.

Near by, at the corner of Notre Dame Street, is a
tablet thus marking the site of the memorable Recollet
Gate : " Recollets Gate : By this gate Amherst took
possession, 8th September, 1760. General Hull, U.S.
Army, 25 officers, 350 men, entered prisoners of war, 20
September, 1812." General Amherst, the British com-
mander, after the capitulation by the French Governor,
de Vaudreuil, ordered Colonel Frederick Haldimand to
receive the keys of the city and occupy the western
quarter of it. That officer at once did so with his
brigade, and was the first Englishman to pass the walls

-=•»

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 35

of the new possession. Nothing now remains of the old
fortifications except their foundations buried in the soil.
They were built, in 1723, by the king's engineer, Chaus-
segros de Lery, and replaced a smaller wall of palisades,
erected about 1685 by command of Governor de Cal-
lieres, to protect against the Iroquois.

Proceeding eastward along Craig Street, past some
nine cross-streets, we come to

Viger Square, extending for several blocks on Craig
Street East, at the corner of St. Denis Street It
receives its name from Commander Jacques Viger, the
first Mayor of Montreal, a man of spirit, and the father
of local antiquarianism. With its well-grown trees, its
ponds and greenhouse, it is the pride of the principal
French residence quarter. Large crowds attend in the
evenings to listen to the music of favorite bands, which
is of a high order, the French-Canadians making excellent
musicians.

In sight of Viger Square, westward, on the hillside, is
the long

Champ de Mars,. the military parade-ground of the
British garrisons when they existed here. It is a level
piece of ground surrounded by decayed poplar trees,
and overlooked by the Court House, City Hall, St.
Gabriel Church (the first Protestant Church erected in
the city) and the Provincial Government Building,
formerly the residence of the Hon. Peter McGill,
first English Mayor of Montreal, 1840. The Champ
was originally — that is to say, during French times,
before 1760 — very much smaller, being only the space
enclosed by the 3rd Bastion of the city walls ; but it

36 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

was enlarged, in the early years of the century, by
means of the earth obtained from removing Citadel
Hill. The foundation of the walls runs underneath the
surface along the middle of the square, and has been
exposed to view in excavations. This was a gay
neighborhood during the palmy days of the garrison,
when some of the most famous regiments of the British
army, such as the Guards, were stationed here.

Adjoining the Champ de Mars, and passing between
the Court House and City Hall, towards the harbour, is
Jacques Cartier Square, the upper part of which was,
in early times, the Place des Jesuites, for the east end
of the Court House borders the site of the French
Jesuits' Monastery, used afterwards as military quarters,
and later replaced by the Gaol and the former Court
House, which in turn were replaced, about 1856, by
the present " Palace of Justice." In the Monastery of
the Jesuits lodged the celebrated historian Charlevoix,
to whom a tablet erected there runs : " The Pere Charle-
voix, historian of La Nouvelle France, 1725." The
foundations can be traced on the square.

Another tablet on the same building reflects a vivid
picture of early times : the torturing by fire, on the
square, of four Iroquois prisoners, who thus suffered
death, by a stern order of Governor Count Frontenac in
1696, in reprisal for the torturing of French prisoners
taken by their tribes. The expedient was successful.
The whole inscription is : " Here stood the Church,
Chapel and Residence of the Jesuit Fathers. Built
1692, occupied as military headquarters 1800. Burnt
1803. Charlevoix and Lafitau, among others, sojourned

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 37

here. On the square in front, four Iroquois suffered
death by fire, in reprisal, by order of Frontenac, 1696."
The same spot was, in later days — even within the
memory of men now living — the place where stood the
Town Pillory, an antiquated institution which seems
almost incredible to our present-day imaginations.

A tablet on the City Hall, just opposite, connects the
square with its protonym thus : " To Jacques Cartier,
celebrated navigator of St. Malo. Discovered Canada,
and named the St. Lawrence, 1534-1535."

The part of the square between Notre Dame Street
and the harbour is in the midst of the oldest neighbour-
hood of buildings in Montreal, some of the little streets
(such as St. Amable Street) being, in their entirety, not
less than a century old, and completely in the antique
spirit. A glancei around from Notre Dame Street will
make this evident.

To the east, on the corner, is the old Store of the
Compagnie des Indes, which, in the French times,
answered to the Hudson Bay Company. It bears also
a tablet that speaks for itself: "The Residence of the
Honourable James McGill, Founder of McGill Univer-
sity, 1744-1813." The heavy stone vaulting of the
cellars is worth a glance within.

Just beyond it, in a garden, is the Chateau de
Ramezay (1705) the residence of one of the French and
some of the British Governors — a good old family mansion
of the time when this was the aristocratic end of the city.

In front, at the end of the square, is Nelson's Column,
surmounted by a statue of the one-armed hero, Lord
Nelson himself, strangely enough, with his back to the

38 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

water ! It was erected, in 1809, by subscription among
both English and French residents. The inscriptions
may be read for completer information.

The rest of the square is a public open market, used
every Tuesday and Friday. On its lower part, near St.
Paul Street, is the site of the old Chateau de Vaudreuil,
the residence of the last French Governor of Canada,
who retired to France, with the army of his country,
after surrendering the city and province to General

CHATEAU DE RAMEZAY.

Amherst in 1760. The chateau was a miniature court
of France. The present square, its garden, saw the
presence of Montcalm, Beaujeu, Levis and many another
brave soldier of the old time, as well as those brilliant
embezzlers and voluptuaries, Bigot, Cadet, Varin and the
rest. The same site was previously that of the large
residence of the famous Du Luth. A tablet just above

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 39

St. Paul Street reads : " The Chateau de Vaudreuil was
built opposite, in 1723, by the Marquis de Vaudreuil,
Governor-General ; residence of the Marquis de Vaudreuil-
Cavagnal, his son, the last Governor of New France.
Montcalm, Levis, Bourlamaque, Bougainville, sojourned
here."

A short distance eastward is

Dalhousie Square, the site of the ancient French
citadel, having been a steep eminence until its levelling,
in 1819, by permission of the Governor, Earl Dalhousie.
It formerly bore the name of Citadel Hill. The "Cita-
del " was a wooden blockhouse, which commanded the
principal streets from end to end, and its situation, the
summit of the rising, was afterwards for a time occupied
by the second rude waterworks of Montreal. The
town walls ended here with the Quebec Gate, a name
which still clings to the locality. The district beyond is
popularly known as " the Quebec Suburbs." Adjoining
is the East-end, or Quebec Gate, Station of the Cana-
dian Pacific Railway, built upon the site of the old
French Arsenal, later used as Barracks by the British
garrison. At its demolition, a few years ago, to make
way for the station, the last part of the French fortifi-
cation walls of the city was removed. The following
tablet is proposed for the Railway Station : " This
Square occupies the site of La Citadelle, built in 1685,
replacing the mill erected by Maisonneuve and Daille-
boust in 1660. Royal Battery 1723. Levelled and
presented to the city by Earl Dalhousie, Governor-
General, 1821. Near the east corner of Notre Dame
Street stood the Porte St. Martin (Quebec Gate).

40 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

Ethan Allen entered it prisoner of war, 1775. This
station replaced the French Arsenal, removed i88l,with
the last portion of the fortification walls of 1721." The
hill itself wras a curious piece of alluvial formation, the
culmination of that long ridge formed by the branching
of the Little River of Montreal into two, on which the
French city of Montreal was built, the waters in a former
age having apparently washed the soil into this shape.
A similar mound and ridge, exhibiting perfectly the

Y.M.C.A. BUILDING, DOMINION SQUARE.

manner of its formation, exists at the mouth of the River
Chateauguay some fifteen miles distant.

Leaving " down-town," and striking westward much
farther, we come to

Dominion Square, which represents the westward-
moving growth and life of Montreal. Situated in the
best neighbourhood of the city, it is a plain, open square
with turf and beds of flowers, and is cut into two by
Dorchester Street West, at which part are placed two

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 41

Russian cannon taken in the Crimean war. Around, in
order, are : the Windsor Hotel, Dominion Square
Methodist Church and parsonage, St. George's Anglican
Church, parsonage and school, the headquarters and
West-end Station of the Canadian Pacific Railway, the
Roman Catholic Archbishop's Palace and his Cathedral
of St. Peter's, and the Young Men's Christian Associa-
tion. The latter is a large and beautiful seven-story
building of rich-colored pressed brick, with ample
facings of grey cut stone. The style is Queen Anne.
The interior is handsome, having a first-class hall, a
completely-equipped gymnasium, a magnificent swim-
ming-bath and accessories, a bright reading-room, library
and other departments. The views from the windows
are particularly fine.

St. Peter's Cathedral, designed to surpass all other
temples in America in size and magnificence, is a copy
of the immense St. Peter's of Rome, the Cathedral of
all Catholicism, of which it is half the dimensions. The
idea was conceived by the late Archbishop Bourget,
after the burning, in 1854, of his Cathedral of St.
Jacques, then on St. Denis Street. The architect was
Victor Bourgeau, who went to Rome to study the
original. The foundations were commenced in 1870.
Even after it commenced the enterprise seemed for a
number of years to threaten failure on account of the
expense ; but by assessing every head in the large
diocese, this was ultimately met. The Cathedral is
built in the form of a cross, 330 feet long and 222 wide.
The masonry works of the great dome are 138 feet in
height above the floor. The chief respects, besides size,

42 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

*fc
in which the design differs from St. Peter's of Rome, are

that the roof is inclined, on account of our snowfall, and
the sides are both similar, whereas one side of the
Roman Cathedral is elaborately columned in cut stone.
The differences may be examined on a model in wood
which is exhibited in the interior. The stone-work
of the fagade is the handsomest portion of the
Cathedral, the carving of the immense blocks used
for the capitals of columns being very fine. To obtain
perfect stones large enough for these pieces occasioned
many months of delay in the erection of the portico.
The dome is by most people considered the great
feature, and dominates all parts of the city. It is 70
feet in diameter at its commencement, and its summit is
210 feet from the spectators on floor of the Church. It
is an exact copy of the famous dome of St. Peter's,
Rome, the work of Brunelleschi, and is 250 feet in
height to the top of the cross — 46 feet higher than the
towers of Notre Dame. Above is a huge gilt ball, on
which is placed a glittering cross, 18 feet high and 12
long. Four smaller domes surround the main one.
The interior of the Church is not completed, but is
interesting from its size and plan.

Close by is the Palace of the Roman Catholic Arch-
bishop of Montreal, a plain brick building with chapel.
The present Archbishop is Monseigneur Fabre.

The Windsor Hotel is the best in Canada, and one
of the best-situated anywhere. Its dining-room and
grand corridor are scarcely to be excelled in effect. It
accommodates 700 guests.

Windsor Hall, adjoining it, is the largest hall in
Canada, and is used for concerts.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 43

St. George's Church is the place of worship of the
second largest Anglican body. It is an example of the
Decorated Gothic style, and possesses a number of
excellent stained glass windows and a good carved front
porch. The old flags of the Montreal Light Infantry
(1837) are hung within. The service is Low Church.

Jl I

WINDSOR IIOTKL AND DOMINION SQUARE.

The square next worthy of notice is

St. Louis Square, the prettiest in Montreal, on Upper
St. Denis Street, above Sherbrooke. It is small, but is
embellished by a large rectangular pond, occupying its
centre, the bright flat mass of which, with a distant
view of Mount Royal visible, good trees around, and
handsomely turreted houses of cut stone lining the
surrounding streets, give it much beauty. It is con-
structed out of the former public " Tank " or water

44 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

reservoir, discarded many years since. Numbers of the
principal French people live in the vicinity, upon Sher-
brooke, St. Denis and other streets.

Phillips' Square, above Beaver Hall Hill, on St.
Catherine Street, is a small space grown with large
trees. Christ Church Cathedral, Morgan's Store and
the Art Gallery, all at the head of it on St. Catherine
Street, are principal landmarks of the city.

A number of less notable squares might be enumerated
if that were useful ; but we pass on to the

IL— Parks.

Montreal has three.

Logan Park is not yet finished, and may be left out
of count. Of the other two — Mount Royal and St.
Helen's Island — it may be doubted if any city in the
world can produce a pair their equal in natural beauty.

Mount Royal is an ideal crown for a city. Not too
lofty to be inaccessible, nor so low as to be insignificant,
it presents, here bold rock-faces, there gentle green
slopes, vistaed dales, clothed with great plenty of trees,
ferns and wild flowers ; meditative nooks, drives, wide
prospects and look-outs. The long curve of its crest
rises above the city in a perpetual invitation of sylvan
charm and rest. The skirts of its slope, below the limits
appropriated to the public park, are covered with
palazzi and villas peeping out of the foliage. The park
is approached usually from the south-east and north-east
sides, in each case by a series of winding drives inter-
sected by more direct footpaths. On the latter side (by
Fletcher's Field), the " Mountain Elevator " carries

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 45

passengers in four specially-constructed cars some dis-
tance up towards the foot of the chief ascent, and then
climbs a precipitous steep to the crest. The charms of
the mountain, however, are most thoroughly seen by
following the course of the drives which encircle it, which
were designed, together with the general plan of
development of the Park, by the celebrated Frederick
Law Olmsted, who laid out Central Park, New York.
He has published a little book on Mount Royal, con-
veying his ideas for the future development of its
beauties on natural principles. Among the landmarks
most to be noticed are : the High Level Reservoir, the
General City Reservoir (seen some distance below), the
residence and grounds of the late Sir Hugh Allan,
founder of the Allan Steamship Line, which, surrounded
by a stone wall, is situated just adjoining the High
Level Reservoir ; the monumental pillar in the same
place, over the grave of Simon McTavish, who, at the
beginning of the century, was the chief partner in the
North -West Company, which founded the modern
commercial greatness of Montreal. Tradition has it
(erroneously) that he committed suicide, and that his
mansion, which long stood deserted a short distance
below on the hillside, was haunted by spirits. A walk
along the drive northward, skirting the precipitous face
of the mountain, gives one of the most picturesque
parts. At the western end of the drive, in this direction,
one can push on by footpath through the forest and pass
into the beautiful vale devoted to Mount Royal Ceme-
tery. Returning to the High Level Reservoir, he has
the choice of climbing by graduated flights of steps up

46 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

the face of the cliff, and thus reaching the summit.
Fine landscape views are obtained from all these points,
especially from the top.

Changing its hue with the changing skies,

The River flows in its beauty rare ;
While across the plain eternal, rise

Boucherville, Rougemont and St. Hilaire.
Far to the Westward lies Lachine,

Gate of the Orient long ago,
When the virgin forest swept between

The Royal Mount and the River below.

The best points of view are Prospect Point, near the
steps, the Look-out farther south (at which carriages stop),
and the Observatory farther inwards. From these the city
is seen in a rich panorama below. Past it flows the River,
with its Island of St. Helen's, St. Paul's or Nun's Island,
half in forest, half meadow, the French parish spires glit-
tering here and there along its banks, and the Lachine
Rapids gleaming in the distance. Beyond the River,
the great plain of the Saint Lawrence Valley, broken
by solitary, abrupt, single mountains here and there, and
faintly hemmed in in the distance by the cloudlike out-
lines of the Green and Adirondack ranges. The solitary
mountains referred to are of volcanic origin and are
respectively, from east to west, Montarville, St. Bruno,
Belceil (which stands out strong and abrupt), Rouge-
mont, Yamaska and Mount Johnson. This volcanic
sisterhood has a member in Mount Royal herself, for
the latter is also an extinct volcano, and, in misty ages
past, belched out lava over the prehistoric plain. The
crater may still be seen on the principal crest, and the
cone on the south side, not far off, while the rocks of the

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

47

LACIIINE RAPIDS.

summit are of black lava crystals, as
may be seen by examining them . The
[mountain was at that time a high one,
with its base extending beyond St.
Helen's Isle. There is a prophecy
^that some day the volcano will again
open, and the city and island sink beneath the St.
Lawrence. From the Observatory the view is enlarged
by the half of the landscape looking across the back
and upper and lower ends of the island. The quiet
of the trim farms forms a striking contrast to the
life of the city. The Riviere des Prairies, or Back
River — a part of the Ottawa — is seen behind the island,
at the head of which lies the bright surface of the Lake
of Two Mountains. Far away, hemming in the horizon
on that side, runs the hoary Laurentian range, the oldest
hills known to geology. They are the boundaries of the
unknown wilds of the North.

The mountain is about 900 feet above the level of the
sea, and about 740 above the river-level. The park
consists of 462 acres. It was acquired, in 1860, from
various private proprietors, as a result of popular outcry

48 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

over one of their number stripping his share of it of the
timber, and thereby conspicuously disfiguring the side.

A tablet on the summit records the visit of Jacques
Carder to it in 1535.

The early records say that de Maisonneuve made a
pilgrimage to the top, bearing a large cross on his
shoulders, in the January of 1643, in fulfilment of a vo\v
made in the winter on the occasion of a great flooding
of the river, which swept up to the foot of the town
palisades, and was, he believed, stayed by prayers.
" The Jesuit Du Peron led the way, followed in proces-
sion by Madame de la Peltrie, the artisans and soldiers,
to the destined spot. The commandant, who, with all
the ceremonies of the Church, had been declared First
Soldier of the Cross, walked behind the rest, bearing on
his shoulders a cross so heavy that it needed his utmost
strength to climb the steep and rugged path. They
planted it on the highest crest, and all knelt in adoration

before it Sundry relics of saints had been

set in the wood of the cross, which remained an object
of pilgrimage to the pious colonists of Ville-Marie." *

A hundred years ago, all along the slopes below,
towards the city, were perched the country seats of the
old North-Westers, McTavish, McGillivray, Sir Alex-
ander MacKenzie, the Frobishers, Clarke and others,
most pleasant rural villas, abundant in all the hospitalities
of olden time.

The mountain has been the occasional theme of
numerous versifiers, but it has its poet in Mr. Walter

* Parkman : " The Jesuit in North America," pp. 263-4.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 49

Norton Evans, to whom it was his delight and comfort
during a period of recovery from loss of sight. In his
volume, " Mount Royal," he says, with deep feeling :

" O, Royal Mountain ! Holy Mount to me,
I come to thee, as in bright days of yore :
That by thy pure and calming ministry,
In reverence and deep humility,
I may be brought nearer the heart of God,
And hear His voice in Nature's voice around."

Further on he describes the usual winter revels in
certain localities :

" Here, as I lie beneath the maple shade,
How glorious a view is spread for me.
There are " The Pines," where many a wild halloo
On moonlight nights in winter, has aroused
The sleeping echoes ; when the snowshoers,
In blanket suit, with brightly-colored sash,
And tuque of red or blue ; their mocassins
Of moose-skin, smoothly drawn on well-socked foot,
And snowshoe firmly bound with deer-skin thong —
Wound up the hill in long extended files,

Singing and shouting with impetuous glee.

* * * * *

While yonder lie the hill and meadow-land,
Now emerald green, but on bright -winter nights,
Upon whose snowy bosom happy crowds
Fly on the swift toboggan down the hill,
And o'er the broad expanse."

At the close he again reverently apostrophises :

" Mounts of Transfiguration still there are,
That lift us far above the influence
Of time and sense, and bring us nearer heaven :
And such thou art to me. — When in the valley
We feel our limitations, grieve and fret ;
And then, in wild despair, look to the hills,
For there are wisdom, strength and boundless love :
Thou blessed mountain-teacher, Fare-thee-well ! "

50 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

St. Helen's Island, named affectionately by Cham-
plain after his young wife, Helene Boulle, lies like a gem
in the wide St. Lawrence. The shades of its deep
groves, standing opposite the city, seem to constantly
beckon the heated citizen in summer. A considerable
portion of it is reserved for military purposes, and a fort
exists within the enclosure. In the days of British
garrisons this was a gay place. It is now the resort, on
hot days, of the crowded masses, to whom its shades
and breezes are an inestimable boon. For their use it
is provided with merry-go-rounds, refreshment-houses,
games, an open swimming-bath at the lower end, and
pleasant paths. The island was remarked upon by
Champlain, on his 1611 visit, as a site for a strong town.
He so greatly fancied it, that he purchased it, a little
later, with money out of his wife's dowry. The registers
of Notre Dame record that, on the I9th of August,
1664, two young men, Pierre Magnan and Jacques
Dufresne, were slain here by Iroquois.

It seems to have been sometimes used by the French
as a military station, for in June, 1687, the Chevalier de
Vaudreuil posted both the regular troops and the militia
there in readiness to march againt the Iroquois. Thither
the Marquis de Levis, commanding the last French
army, withdrew, and here burnt his flags in the presence
of his army the night previous to surrendering the
colony to the English. Louis Honore Frechette, the
national French-Canadian poet, bases upon this his
poem, entitled " All Lost but Honour."

In 1688 the island was acquired by Charles Le Moyne,
Sieur de Longueuil, who gave the name of Ste. Helene

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 5 I

to one of his most distinguished sons. During the
eighteenth century (from before 1723), his descendants,
the Barons of Longueuil, whose territory lay just
opposite, had a residence here, the ruins of which, once
surrounded with gardens, are to be seen upon it
on the east side, near the present restaurant. The
Government acquired it from them by arrangement
during the war of 1812, and later by purchase in 1818,
for military purposes. It ceded the park portion to the
city in 1874.

Almost adjoining it, at the lower extremity, is Isle
Ronde, a small, low island.

///. — Cemeteries.

Out of regard for beauty of situation, the two great
cemeteries, Protestant and Roman Catholic, lie behind
the mountain.

Mount Royal Cemetery, the former, is one of the
most lovely of Montreal's surroundings, occupying a
secluded vale, landscape-gardened in perfect taste. It
is approached either from the Mountain Park by a
carriage road and by various paths over and around, or
else by the highway called Mount Royal Avenue, on the
north side, which leads through groves up to the prin-
cipal Gate, a Gothic structure of stone. On entering,
the Chapel is seen to the left, the Superintendent's
Lodge to the right, in front lawns, flower beds and
roads leading up the hill. To the right are the winter
vaults. Finely situated to the left, far up on the hillside,
is the range of family vaults, of which the Molson is the

52 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

most conspicuous and the Tiffin the most tasteful. The
former contains the remains of the Honourable John
Molson. This cemetery is not old enough to contain
many celebrities. There is, however, the quiet grave of
the poet Heavysege, author of " Saul " and other dramas,
and of a number of wierd and musical sonnets.

Adjoining Mount Royal Cemetery to the south, and
situated on a separate face of the mountain, is the
Roman Catholic Cemetery, less well-kept, but still
containing things worth seeing. One of these sights is
the Stations of the Cross ; another the monument to
the "patriots" (according to the side taken) of 1837,
when a rebellion of a certain section of the French-
Canadians against bureaucratic government took place ;
a third is the monument to Frs. Guibord, who was long
refused burial in consecrated ground on account of
membership in a Liberal Institute. The approach is by
Cote des Neiges Road from Sherbrooke Street, over the
mountain. On this road, at the height of the hill, is to
be seen a ruin known as Capitulation Cottage, which
is asserted, by tradition, to have been the headquarters
of General Amherst when he occupied the heights on
approaching to the siege of Montreal, then a small
walled town miles away.

The Hebrew Cemetery is near the gate of the
Protestant one. The Chaldaic letters and antique
shapes of the tombstones attract the passing attention.

The Old Military Cemetery (on Papineau Street) is
a relic of several generations ago, and contains the
tombs of many well-known officers of the garrison.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 53

II. — PUBLIC BUILDINGS.

The City Hall is, externally, a large and exceedingly
handsome example of modern French architecture, built
of grey cut-stone, surmounted by a bold Mansard clock
tower and heavy square corner turrets. The interior
has a tolerably elegant appearance, produced by ranges
of substantial Corinthian columns and galleries of
natural wood. The Council Chamber is small and
ineffective, however, and none of the offices remarkable.
The debates are conducted in a mixture of French and
English speeches, and the officials are nearly all French.
The ground floor is given up to the police headquarters
and the Recorder's Court. The tower affords one of the
best views of the harbour and surroundings obtainable.
In ascending it, one passes the Fire Alarm Signal
Department, where the electric appliances are quite
interesting.

Opposite is a long, low, cottage-built building of
somewhat shabby mien, situated behind an old-fashioned
stone fence. It is the Chateau de Ramezay, tempor-
arily used for some of the lesser courts, but better
known as a repertory of much provincial history. Two
tablets upon it set forth a portion of its history. The
one relates to its erection, about 1705, by Claude de
Ramezay, Governor of Montreal, father of the de
Ramezay who is somewhat maligned for surrendering
Quebec, notwithstanding the impossibility of continuing
its defence. The building later fell into the hands of
the Compagnie des Indes Occidentales, and after the
British conquest, was used for a considerable period as
a residence for the English Governors when here. The

54 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

other tablet relates to 1775, when the Americans held

Montreal for a winter, and sent as commissioners to win

over the Canadians, Benjamin Franklin, Samuel Chase

and Charles Carroll. The former inscription is as

follows: "Chateau de Ramezay. Built about 1705 by

Claude de Ramezay, Governor of Montreal 1703.

Headquarters of La Compagnie des Indes, 1745.

Official residence of the British Governors after the

Conquest. Headquarters of the American Army, 1775 ;

of the Special Council, 1837." The latter tablet reads:

"In 1775 this Chateau was the headquarters of the

American Brigadier-General Wooster, and here in 1776,

under General Benedict Arnold, the Commissioners of

Congress, Benjamin Franklin, Samuel Chase, and

Charles Carroll of Carrolton, held council." The vaults

beneath are strong and substantial. The council-room

is in the front, near the east-end entrance. It is oval at

one end. There Franklin and his friends, and Benedict

Arnold, retreating from Quebec, held their consultations,

and Franklin's weapon, the printing-press, which was

set up in the Chateau, must have been one of the

chief subjects of discussion. The first printer of

Montreal, Fleury Mesplet, was brought by him from

Philadelphia, and was, in 1778, to found the earliest

newspaper, the Gazette, a small sheet printed partly in

French, partly English. His Gazette still flourishes as a

morning paper — the third oldest journal in America.

From the same council-room Lord Elgin, having, after
the rebellion of 1837, signed the unpopular Rebellion
Losses Bill, went out to his carriage to be received by
an angry populace with showers of rotten eggs and stones.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 55

The Court House, or Palais de Justice, opposite the
west side of the City Hall, is large, but uninteresting
architectually. In it are held the principal courts for
the District of Montreal, and Americans usually experi-
ence some curiosity on seeing the robes and cocked hats
of the Judges, the antique court costume and side sword
of the Sheriff, the gowned bar and the Royal Arms, and
in hearing the French cases. Events connected with
the historical tablets on the edifice are mentioned in
describing Jacques Cartier Square.

In the vaults underneath old and valuable historical
records are kept, with the general mass of judicial
documents. The Chief Justice of the Queen's Bench
for the Province of Quebec is Sir Alex. Lacoste ; the
Chief Justice of the Superior Court is Sir Francis
Johnson ; the Sheriff is J. R. Thibaudeau. As in the
City Hall, nearly all the clerks are French.

The system of law in the Province of Quebec, it may
be remarked, is, with little doubt, the best in the world.
It is substantially the highly-developed and scientific
jurisprudence of the Roman Empire, improved by
grafting the best parts of modern French and English
law.

The Post Office on St. James Street, near the Place
d'Armes, is a handsome building in French Renaissance
style, but now much too small for the growing volume
of business. A couple of bas-reliefs, after designs from
Flaxman, are inserted in the portico as mementoes of
the old Bank of Montreal, which stood on the same
site. The office is open from 7.30 a.m. to 7 p.m. for
general delivery. There is a Savings' Bank attached,

56 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

and nine branch offices are dispersed about town. In
cases of doubt or difficulty, the Enquiry Department
makes every reasonable effort to set matters right. The
city letter rate is 2 cents ; for beyond the city limits the
general rate is 3 cents.

The Board of Trade is a large and fine building,
occupying the whole space between St. Peter and St.
Nicholas on St. Sacrament Street. It is constructed of
stone, with iron stairways throughout, is six stories in
height, and has about 3,000 square feet of safety deposit
vaults underneath. It contains the Board's exchange
hall (about 4,000 feet in area), reading-room, council-
room, stock exchange room, etc., the rest of the building
being given up to offices.

The Corn Exchange stands opposite.

The Custom House has been referred to under
Custom House Square. It might be added that the
duties collected are about $10,000,000 a year, in round
numbers.

The Fraser Institute, at the corner of Dorchester
and University Streets, established by the will of the
late Hugh Fraser, is the only free public library. It is
an illustration of the difficulties of a radically-divided
community in establishing general educational institu-
tions. It possesses many valuable French works, the
former property of the French Public Library Associa-
tion, L'Institut Canadien, which it absorbed.

The Mechanics' Institute, on the corner of St. James
and St. Peter Streets, also carries on a library and
reading-room, not, however, free.

The Natural History Museum is a centre of a large

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 57

amount of valuable scientific work, and of several allied
associations, such as the Microscopic Club. The Cana-
dian Record of Science is published by the Society, and
it has close relations with McGill University. A rare
scientific library and many valuable specimens are
stored in the building.

The Art Gallery is a small one, but its building is
elegant externally, and the collection within is well
chosen, without containing anything great or costly. It
belongs to the Art Association, which was founded in
1860, but was able to do little until the bequest, some
years later, by Benaiah Gibb, an art lover, of the site,
with a small collection of paintings, several thousands
of dollars and a lot of land. The Gallery was then
erected. It has lately received a bequest of the esti-
mated value of about $4,000 a year from the late J. W.
Tempest, to be devoted to buying foreign pictures other
than American or modern British. In the entrance hall
a mural brass to the memory of Benaiah Gibb is placed.
A reading-room is at the rear, study-room on the left,
and the picture gallery overhead. The occasional loan
exhibitions are the great feature, for at such times
collections in Europe and the United States, and the
private galleries of local men of taste, which, in
Montreal, are exceeding rich, bring out treasures of
the greatest interest and value. Such works as Millet's
" Angelus," Breton's " Les Communiantes," Constant's
" Herodiade," Watt's " Love and Death," and Turner's
" Mercury and Argus " have been exhibited.

The Drill Hall is situated on Craig Street, opposite
the Champ de Mars. It is a handsome limestone

58 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

building, fitted with quarters for the various volunteer
regiments. The main hall is the largest in the place,
holding about 15,000 people.

The Waterworks are situated in the southern corner
of the city. The large water-wheels and other machinery
are of interest to engineers and those who like such
things. The aim is to pump good water from the river
above the city up to the two reservoirs on the mountain
side, from which distribution takes place.

The Bonsecours Market, situated on the water-
front near Jacques Cartier Square, is one of the town
sights on a market-day, for its scenes of French-
Canadian provincial life. Thither on Tuesday and
Friday the country habitants flock, with their little
carts and their homespun clothing. Amid the jabber of
Norman patois, and a preposterous haggling, worthy of
Italy, over the " trente sous," the " neuf francs," or the
" un ecu," one catches glimpses, through the jostling
crowds, of piles of wooden shoes, brilliant strips of
native rag-carpet, French home-made chairs or olive-
wood rosaries and metal charms exposed for sale ; and
at Easter-tide the display of enormous beeves, decorated
with paper roses, green, yellow and red, delight the
hearts of the children, the peasants, and those who can
still be both. The lover of human nature will observe a
thousand studies of character in an early morning's push
through these crowds. The building is a massive one
of somewhat imposing aspect. It is surmounted by a
large dome. The upper part was formerly the City
Hall. It stands partly on the site of a house of
Sir John Johnson, commander of the Indians during

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 59

the American Revolution, and son of Sir William
Johnson, " the Indian baronet ; " and the site is also that
of the Palace of the French Intendants. Many houses
of the French period exist in this neighbourhood.

Next to it, at the north-east end, is the old church of
Notre Dame de Bonsecours, which gave the market
its name.

St. Ann's Market, on Foundling Street, is on the site
of the Parliament Buildings, which stood here when
Montreal was for a few years the capital of Canada.
They were burnt in 1847, amid great uproar, by the
same angry mob who rotten-egged Lord Elgin for his
assent to the Rebellion Losses Bill. The oil portrait of
the Queen was loyally cut out and saved during the fire
by a young man named Snaith, and is now in the
Parliament Buildings at Ottawa.

The name of Foundling Street adjoining was given
on account of the finding there, in 1755, of an infant
stabbed and floating in the ice of the little river which
ran here. This it was which excited the compassion of
Madame d'Youville, foundress of the Grey Nunnery,
and led her to add to the work. of that institution the
care of abandoned infants, which has now become its
principal work.

The other principal markets of the city are : St.
Lawrence, St. Antoine and St. Jean Baptiste.

CHAPTER IV.

CHURCHES.

YILLE-MARIE having been founded as a community of
missionaries and crusaders against the heathen, and
the lords of the island having been a seminary of
priests, one cannot be surprised to find the great majority
of her streets and neighborhoods named after saints, from
St. Gabriel and Ste. Cunegonde to St. Louis du Mile
End, and to learn that religious devotion is strong
to-day. It was the hope of the first settlers to create
here a sort of ideal Catholic community — in an early
writer's phrase, an " abode of angels." The ecclesiastical
censorship, like the Connecticut Blue Law regime, had
some good points, such as an earnest opposition to the
evils of the brandy trade with Indians ; but its weak-
nesses are amusingly pointed out by Baron La Hontan
in his letters, about 1690, when, on entering his chamber
in his lodgings at Montreal, he found that the Fathers
had gone in without permission and torn up the classical
romance with which he had been amusing his leisure.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 6 1

New France was early established as an exclusively
Catholic colony. Hence, in very great part arose its
weakness and downfall. Had a liberal policy been
carried out to Huguenot emigration, the leading French-
Canadian historian has shown it probable that about
600,000 progressive citizens would have been added to
its strength, instead of to the prosperity of England,
Holland and Germany. As things actually went, New
France was to the last feeble, struggling and backward,
never able to conquer its Indian enemy, and reaching
only the figure of about 70,000 inhabitants at the end of
its existence in 1760.

An ecclesiastical aspect consequently survives. In
the east-end of the city, along the Sherbrooke Street
ridge, the whole town is dominated by a long range of
convents and institutions. The priest, the friar, and
even the cowled and bare-footed monk pass along the
streets seen in their full costumes. Processions of nuns,
too, in black, or grey, or buff, and of seminary students in
cap, uniform and blue or green sash. Miracle pilgrim-
ages leave the wharves for the shrines of St. Anne at
Varennes or Beaupre. And at Christmas, Holy Week,
Palm Sunday and All Saints' the churches are sights
for large crowds of devotees and visitors.

Though a Huguenot company once owned the terri-
tory, and though a number of persons of Huguenot
origin had taken part in its founding as officers and
soldiers who were settled upon its lands, and though a
number of child-captives taken during raids into New
England were, from time to time, added to the popula-
tion, Protestantism only became established with the

62 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

British conquest. For two generations more there was
a constant movement, on the part of the British bureau-
cracy, to found some form of State Church, while the
Anglican and Scotch Presbyterian Churches were privi-
leged by law, and Crown Lands, called " Clergy
Reserves," were set apart for their maintenance. The
spirit of progress finally brought about the abolition of
the system.

The marked contrast of the two religions, Protestant
and Catholic, has had the effect of intensifying, while
also liberalizing, the religious life of both, and also of
making Montreal emphatically and strikingly a city of
churches. The numerous spires and church edifices to
be seen in every direction are remarked by every visitor.

I. — PROTESTANT CHURCHES.
A nglican.

Christ Church Cathedral, the most perfect church in
Canada architectually, and, it is claimed with consider-
able reason, even in the whole of North America, is an
exquisite example of the style known as Fourteenth-
Century or Decorated Gothic. It was erected in 1859,
under the guidance of the late Bishop Fulford, whose
enthusiasm in matters of taste made him also the
founder of the Art Association. A marble bust of him
in the left transept perpetuates his connection with the
church, and a beautiful spired monument, modelled after
the celebrated Martyrs' Memorial at Oxford, keeps his
memory green in the churchyard. From every point
this edifice is a delight, so charming is each part and so
perfectly harmonious the whole. It is built of rough

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 63

grey limestone, embellished with facings of yellow Caen
sandstone imported for the purpose, and carved in
mediaeval gurgoyles, corbels, pinnacles and other orna-
mental forms. It may be viewed from all sides with
equal pleasure and artistic profit. The principal feature
is the elegant stone spire, 211 feet high, with clock.
The front, with carved porch, is also, though low,
exceedingly attractive, and the octagonal Chapterhouse
is in good taste. Internally, the massive carved pillars,
well-pitched nave, deep choir, and a number of excel-
lent stained-glass memorial windows, are worthy of
notice. Likewise the exquisite stone font. Much of
the wood and stone-carving about the building is said
to be modelled from plants indigenous to Mount Royal.
The music, both organ and choir, is generally good.
The service is Low Church, and it may be remarked
that the edifice, as a silent protest on that point, is
placed with its chancel facing west instead of eastward.

The Rectory and Bishop's " Palace," known as
" Bishop's Court," are at the back of the grounds, and
the Synod Hall adjoins on land next the Rectory. The
latter is a neat Gothic structure of red pressed brick.

The original Christ Church, the immediate predecessor
of this one, stood in Notre Dame Street, near St.
Lambert Hill, where a tablet thus marks the site : " Site
of Christ Church Cathedral, the first Anglican Church,
1814, burnt 1856." It, too, was a building of decided
architectural taste.

The other Anglican Churches are : St. George's,
which has been described under Dominion Square ; St.
John the Evangelist (Extreme Ritualist), on Ontario

64 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

Street, corner of St. Urbain Street ; St. James the
Apostle (High Church, with good choral litany Sundays
at 4 p.m.), on St. Catherine, corner of Bishop Street ;
St. Martin's (Low), corner St. Urbain and Prince
Arthur Streets ; St. Stephen's, Trinity, St. Luke's, St.
Jude's, St. Mary's, St. Thomas, etc., and L'Eglise du
Redempteur (French).

Presbyterian.

ST. GABRIEL STREET CHURCH.

Old St. Gabriel Church, the quaint little building on
St. Gabriel Street, adjoining the Champ de Mars and
the Court House, has the honour of being the first
Protestant Church erected in Montreal. A stone,

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 65

recently removed, bore the date of erection, 1792. In
its first years the Anglicans also worshipped here, the
Protestant community of the small town being few and
feeble. The congregations were largely military, from
the garrison close by. Previous to its erection, the
Presbyterians for several years worshipped in the Church
of the Recollet Fathers, whom they, in grateful recog-
nition on leaving, presented with a present of candles
and a tun of communion wine. The congregation has
its home, since 1886, on St. Catherine Street, near
Phillips Square. But it should be said that the congre-
gation of Knox Church is more nearly representative
of the old St. Gabriel.

St. Andrew's Church (on Beaver Hall Hill) is,
externally, a fine specimen of Early English or Scottish
Gothic, with a well-proportioned spire, 180 feet high.
It is a curiosity as being the only Canadian Presbyterian
Church which has never left the Kirk of Scotland, and
is sometimes styled " the Scotch Cathedral." The
original St. Andrew's was built of stone, in 1814, on St.
Helen Street.

St. Paul's (Dorchester Street West) possesses a
beautiful pair of pinnacled towers, resembling those of
Magdalen College at Oxford.

Crescent, further westward along Dorchester Street,
is large and in early French Gothic, with fine spire.

The American Presbyterian, near the Windsor, on
the same street, is a modern building, having the best
organ among the Protestants of the city, and a large
congregation.

The Presbyterians have three French Churches : St.

66 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

John's or Russell Hall, on St. Catherine Street, east of
St. Lawrence Street ; L'Eglise du Sauveur and L'Eglise
de la Croix.

Methodist.

St. James Church, on St. Catherine Street, a little
east of Phillips Square, is one of the finest sacred
edifices in Montreal in external appearance, and the
largest Protestant temple except Christ Church Cathedral.

The Dominion Square Methodist Church has been
referred to already.

Other large Methodist congregations are the Point
St. Charles, the Second Methodist, the East End, the
West End and the Douglas. There are two French
ones, the First French and the Eglise Evangelique
Methodiste.

Baptists.

The principal congregations are : The First Baptist
(St. Catherine Street), Olivet (Mountain Street) and
L'Oratoire (French), on St. George's Street. The posi-
tion of the earliest place of worship of the denomination,
on St. Helen Street, is marked by a inscription as
follows : " Here stood the First Baptist Chapel of
Montreal, 1831. The Rev. Jno. Gilmour, Pastor. Aban-
doned 1860."

Congregationalist,

The principal churches are : Emmanuel (St. Catherine
Street, corner of Stanley Street), Calvary (Guy Street)
and Zion (Mance Street).

Some of the other churches are : The New Jerusalem
Church, 25 Hanover Street ; St. John's, German

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 67

Lutheran, 129 St. Dominique ; the " Catholic Apostolic"
or Irvingite, 35 Cathcart ; St. Bartholomew's, Reformed
Episcopal, 1 8 Beaver Hall Hill ; the Plymouth Brethren,
32 University ; Advent Christians, 2272 St. Catherine ;
and Salvation Army Barracks, Alexander Street. The
Unitarians have a Lombard edifice, with fine spire,
styled the Church of the Messiah, on Beaver Hall Hill.
The pulpit chair is made of wood taken from the tower
of old Notre Dame Church.

II. — ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCHES.

The Parish Church or Notre Dame de Montreal and
St. Peter's Cathedral have been described under Place
d'Armes and Dominion Square respectively.

Notre Dame de Bonsecours, opposite the east end
of Bonsecours Market, is, historically, the most attractive
of the local churches, except Notre Dame. In 1657, a
wooden chapel, 30 by 40 feet, was erected here on a
stone foundation, part of which remains to the present
day. The land was given by Chomedy de Maisonneuve,
founder of Ville-Marie. He also cut down the first
trees and pulled them out of the wood. The church
was built by order of the Sister Marie Bourgeoys, the
earliest schoolmistress of the colony. The spot was
then 400 yards outside the limits of the town. In 1675,
the chapel being too small, another was built on the
same site and of the same dimensions as the present
one. The name Bonsecours was given on account of
the escapes of the colony from the Iroquois. In
1754, a fire destroyed the second chapel, and in 1771
the present church was constructed upon its foundations.

68 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

The stone foundations, therefore, of the present building
go back to 1675. Till a few years ago it was a fine
specimen of an old French provincial church, especially
the elegant open tin-covered spire and gracefully-curved
roof. The restoration-fiend, however, has played sad
havoc with its outlines, putting on a new front, roof and
spire, and improving away most of its beauty and
uniqueness. There are still left a few suggestions of
what it was — the inward-sloping walls, the statue of the
Virgin on the rear peak of the roof, looking towards the
water, a couple of the old paintings and altars, etc. The
image of the Virgin is very old, and is supposed to have
miraculous powers for the aid of sailors, many of whom
yet pray to it. It was acquired by Sister Marie Bour-
geoys from the Baron de Fancamp, a noble of Brittany,
where it had been reputed for miracles. She, in conse-
quence, brought it over, had the chapel built for it, and
set it up where it stands, and where it has remained the
patron of the French sailors for nearly two centuries
and a half.

Another old little church, and one which bears its
aspect of age quaintly, is reached by the gateway leading
from Notre Dame Street to the Convent of the Congre-
gation at St. Lambert Hill. It is a small, plain building
of dark rough limestone, with round-arched doorway.
The tablet upon it reads : " Notre Dame de Victoire,
built in memory of the destruction of the fleet of Sir
Hovenden Walker on the Isle aux Oeufs, 1711." This
fleet sailed up the Gulf to attack Quebec at the one end
of the colony, while the land forces of the British
colonies were to advance from Albany against Montreal,

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 69

under General Nicholson and Colonel Pieter Schuyler.
A great storm in the Gulf shipwrecked the fleet, and
frustrated the entire invasion. The French ascribed the
catastrophe to the Virgin, and vowed her this chapel,
which was erected seven years later, in 1718. The
interior, now used as an engine-room, retains its original
wood-panelling. The roof has been raised a story.

The Gesu, or Jesuits' Church, situated on Bleury
Street, below St. Catherine, is one very much frequented
by visitors on account of its frescoes and magnificent
music. The former were the work of artists from
Rome. The latter is chiefly heard on Sunday evenings,
at which time, after the preaching, numbers crowd into
the church to listen. The edifice is in that Italian
modification known as Florentine Renaissance, or " the
Jesuits' style." The design is that of the Church of the
Gesu in Rome. The present towers are intended to be
continued into spires. Internally, the delicate mono-
chrome frescoes which adorn the walls and ceiling,
reproduce the masterpieces of the modern German
school : the Crucifixion, the Trinity, the Queen of
Angels, the Holy Name of Jesus at the intersection of
the transepts and nave, the Lamb of God, Jesus in the
midst of the Doctors, Jesus with Mary and Joseph at
Nazareth, Jesus blessing little children, the raising of
Lazarus, Jesus as the Good Shepherd, Jesus appearing
to St. Thomas after the Resurrection, scenes drawn
from the history of the Jesuits. The fine oil paintings,
by the Gagliardi brothers of Rome, are also worthy of
inspection. In the basement there is a stage, and per-
formances by the pupils of St. Mary's College adjoining

70 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

are given, with lectures and other entertainments, from
time to time, before the Cercle Catholique and similar
organizations.

St. Mary's College is a large boys' school, presided
over by the Jesuits. It possesses, among other things,
things, a very rare collection of early historical documents
and relics, collected largely by the learned Father Jones.
In Canada the Order had a leading chapter of its history.
From 161 1, when Fathers Biard and Masse accompanied
to Acadia some of the first settlers of New France, the
members for a long time signalized themselves by extra-
ordinary devotion and self-sacrifice, and were among
the foremost in exploration of this continent. Eager
for martyrdom, they pressed forward among the most
savage tribes, overjoyed at being able to baptise the
multitude of dying infants, and thus, as they believed,
save the little ones' souls for heaven.

The passing by the Legislative Assembly of Quebec,
with a handsome majority, among which were some
Protestant votes, of the bill incorporating the Society
of Jesus, makes a short sketch of their history in this
province instructive and interesting.

From 1611, when the Rev. Fathers Biard and Masse
accompanied to Acadia the first settlers of New France
down to their expulsion in 1800, the members of the
Society of Jesus have been active here. From the
Atlantic shores of Acadia to the prairies of the far
West, and from the frozen shores of Hudson Bay to
the sunny plains of Louisiana, the Fathers laboured,
and Canadian history is full of their doings. The
blood of Fathers Brebceuf and Lallemant, burnt by the

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 7 1

Iroquois in 1649 ; of Daniel, shot by arrows and musket
balls in 1648 ; of Jogues, struck down by a hatchet in
1646; of Gamier, butchered in 1649; of Chabanel,
drowned by an apostate Huron in 1649 ; of Garreau,
Pierron and a host of others attest the hardships and
dangers of their work.

In 1772 the Pope suppressed the order, and when the
decree was received in Quebec, the then Governor, Lord
Dorchester, acting upon instructions from the minister,
prevented the Bishop from publishing it, and it was
privately communicated to the Jesuits by the Bishop.
The Order became extinct in 1800 by the death of the
last Jesuit, Father Cazot, who was allowed by the
British Government to peacefully enjoy his estates till
his death.

The suppression of the order was lifted in 1814, and
in 1839, after an absence of nearly forty years, they
returned to Canada.

Though it was a Jesuit, Father Vimont, who celebrated
the first mass in Ville-Marie, their influence was much
more felt at Quebec than Montreal. There they became
zealously autocratic, driving away the Order of Recollets
(who, having been the first on the ground, had called in
their aid), and carried on, through Montmorency de
Laval, the first Bishop in Canada, a long and heated
feud with the Sulpicians of Montreal.

Here, their early church and residence was on Jacques
Cartier Square, adjoining what is now the Champ de
Mars, and forming together three sides of a quadrangle,
opening towards Notre Dame Street. The reader may

72 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

turn for fuller information to Parkman's "Jesuits in New
France."

On St. Helen Street, just adjoining the corner of
Notre Dame Street, there stood, till a few years ago, a
church and monastery, which gave its name to a gate
and whole quarter of the French town — the quarter and
gate of the Recollets. A tablet erected there bears the
words: "Here stood, until 1866, the Church and
Monastery of the Rdcollet Fathers, 1692, in which the
Anglicans from 1764 to 1789, and the Presbyterians
from 1791 to 1792, worshipped." It was also the first
Parish Church for the Irish Catholics of Montreal, from
1830 to 1847.

Notre Dame de Lourdes is another visitors' church.
It stands near the corner of St. Denis and St. Catherine
Streets, and its fagade is of marble. Concerning this
church, I cannot do better than condense the description
given by a very competent critic, Mr. A. E. Dawson,
heretofore Chairman of the Board of Arts : " This
church has been built and adorned with one idea — that
of expressing in visible form the dogma of the Immacu-
late Conception of the Virgin Mary. The architecture
of the church is Byzantine and Renaissance, such as
may be seen at Venice. It consists of a nave with
narrow aisles, a transept and a choir. The choir and
the transept are terminated by a circular and domed
apses, and a large central dome rises at the intersection
of the transept. The large dome is 90 feet high, the

total length of the church 102 feet The

first picture on the roof of the nave represents the
promise of the Redemption made to Adam and Eve.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 73

They are prostrated before the Lord, who addresses the
Serpent — * She shall bruise thy head.' The next panel
is the sacrifice of Abraham. The third represents the
arrival of Rebecca before Isaac. The fourth, which is
over the choir, is Jacob blessing his children. On the
right of the nave are the prophets who have prophesied
of the Virgin — Isaiah, Jeremiah, David, Micah. On
the left are types of the Virgin — Sarah, Rebecca, Rachel,
Ruth. The artist then proceeds to show the Roman
view of the realization of these promises — the Salutation
of Elizabeth and the Nativity — in the transepts, with
the Greek and Latin Fathers respectively who have
magnified Mary. The choir contains the exposition of
the Dogma proper. The statue over the altar, and
which strikes the eye immediately on entering the
church, is symbolic of the doctrine. It represents the
Virgin in the attitude usually attributed to this subject
by the Spanish painters — the hands crossed on the
breast. She is standing on the clouds, and the text
illustrated is Rev. xii. I : ' A woman clothed with the
sun, and the moon under her feet.' The light thrown
down from an unseen lamp is to represent the clothing
with the sun."

"The artist, M. Bourassa, must have the credit," says
Mr. Dawson, " of working out his exposition with force
and unity. Some of the painting is exceedingly good.
The decoration of the church in gold and colours,
arabesque and fifteenth-century ornament, is very beau-
tiful and harmonious We have dwelt at

length upon this building, because it is the only one of
its kind in America."

74 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

Mr. Dawson is himself, we believe, the originator of
the project of a French-Canadian school of church
decorators, whose field should be the Roman Catholic
Churches of the North American continent, and ot
which the Board of Arts and Manufactures has, under
his guidance, established a respectable beginning at
Montreal.

Beneath the church is a chapel representing the
alleged apparition of the Virgin to the young girl
Bernadette Soubirons in a grotto near Lourdes, France,
in 1858, at which time a miracle-working fountain is
said to have commenced to gush out of the rock, and
still continues making miraculous cures.

L'Eglise St. Jacques near by, stands on the site of
the former Roman Cathedral, and is a highly fashionable
French place of worship. Its spire is the highest in the
city, slightly exceeding the towers of Notre Dame.
The new transept is a handsome piece of Gothic.

St. Patrick's, "the Irish Cathedral," on St. Alexander
Street, is a grand specimen of early French Gothic, both
in and out. The quaint stone fagade, with rose window,
and the massive but still open spire, are truly notable
for their combination of grace and power.

Other notable Roman Catholic Churches are : The
Church of the Sacred Heart, the Chapel of the Congre-
gation Nuns, St. Henri Parish Church, Ste. Cunegonde
Parish Church.

III. — JEWISH SYNAGOGUES.

At this point we ought not to overlook the earliest
synagogue. Jews appear in Montreal very soon after

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 75

the Conquest (at least, as early as 1765, and probably
with the British entry). Their first synagogue building
was on Notre Dame Street, west of the Court House
Square, where the tablet reads : " Here stood the first
Synagogue of Canada, erected in 1777, A.M. 5557, by
the Spanish and Portuguese Jewish Congregation
'Shearith Israel;' founded 1768."

There are now five synagogues in the place. That of
the Spanish rite on Stanley Street is remarkable as a
specimen, especially within, of ^Egypto-Judean architec-
ture. Four magnificent stone Egyptian columns support
the portico.

CHAPTER V.

if
Jt

I/ V.

CHARITABLE AND RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS.

'ERE, again, the sharp division of Roman Catholic and
Protestant comes in, though the charity of some of
the institutions is broader than their denomina-
tional limits. There is nothing of which Montreal can be
prouder than the large-heartedness of many of her
wealthy citizens. There are only two kinds of men
worth considering — the generous and the mean. Mont-
real has had, like other places, some conspicuously mean
millionaires ; but no town has had a greater proportion
of generous ones, and these she delights to keep
remembered.

I. — PROTESTANT.

The Victoria Hospital, though new, stands at the
head of all. The gift of two citizens, Sir Donald Smith
and Lord Mount-Stephen, it dominates the city from
the top of University Street, on a shoulder of Mount
Royal, at the eastern edge of the park. It is a huge and

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 77

most picturesque building of uncut limestone, resembling
some castellated Scotch palace. The style, in fact, is
Scottish Baronial The cost was over $1,000,000, apart
from the land, which was contributed by the city. The
Hospital occupies one of the most commanding situa-
tions possible. On approach, it is found to consist of a
magnificent main building situated across a court-yard,
the sides of which are formed by long, tall, narrow wings
boldly standing forward, their appearance of height
enhanced by a pair of tall turrets at the front corners
of each, and also by the slope of the hillside. The
interior is constructed and managed on the most modern
hospital plans and principles.

The General Hospital, on Dorchester Street, at the
corner of St. Dominique, is the most widely-venerated
establishment. Its tradition, though supported almost
entirely by Protestant contributions, is that of an open
door, and kind relief to all sufferers, without regard to
race or creed. It was established in 1821. The daily
average of in-door patients is about 170; of out-door,
about 700.

The Protestant House of Industry and Refuge is
the head centre for distribution of relief to the Protestant
poor, and is carried on by a committee of citizens. It
has a country home for the aged and infirm at Longue
Pointe. It is situated on Dorchester Street, east of
Bleury.

The Western Hospital, 1269 Dorchester Street
West, is the leading establishment for diseases of women.

The Mackay Institute for Protestant Deaf Mutes
(also for the blind), on Cote St. Luc Road, Cote St.

78 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

Antoine ; incorporated 1869. One of the most benefi-
cent and interesting of institutions. Six teachers, forty
deaf and five blind children inmates.

.The Hervey Institute, Mountain Street, below Dor-
chester, is a children's home. So are the Protestant
Infants' Home, 508 Guy Street, and the Protestant
Orphan Asylum (established 1822), 2409 St. Catherine
Street.

The Boys' Home, 117 Mountain Street, below St.
Antoine, does an excellent work of rescue and training.

The other Protestant Institutions are : The W.C.T.U.,
St. Catherine Street, foot of Victoria Street ; Y.W.C.A.,
75 Drummond Street ; St. Andrew's Home (Scotch),
403 Aqueduct Street ; St. George's Home (English),
139 St. Antoine Street ; the Montreal Maternity Hospi-
tal, 93 St. Urbain Street ; the Women's Protective
Immigration Society, Osborne Street, near Mountain ;
the Ladies' Benevolent Society, 31 Berthelet Street ; the
Canadian Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals,
198 St. James Street; the Society for Protection of
Women and Children, Temple Building ; the Irish
Protestant Benevolent Society, 691 Dorchester Street ;
the Protestant Hospital for the Insane, Verdun ; St.
Margaret's Home, 660 Sherbrooke Street ; Montreal
Sailors' Institute, 320 Commissioners Street ; the Baron
de Hirsch Institute (Jewish) ; the Hebrew Benevolent.

The Y.M.C.A. has been described under Dominion

Square.

II. — ROMAN CATHOLIC.

The Hotel Dieu (Hotel Dieu St. Joseph de Ville-
Marie), the oldest and vastest of the Roman Catholic

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 79

Hospitals, is, of course, a great nunnery as well. Its
long front, large stone garden-walls and tin-covered
roofs and dome, infallibly catch the eye near the head
of Park Avenue, and bordering on the east corner of
Mount Royal Park. The nunnery is on one side of the
central chapel, the hospital on the other. It was
founded, about 250 years ago, in 1644, by the Duchesse
de Bullion, "the unknown benefactress," one of the
aristocratic circle of the Association of Montreal, who
gave to found it a sum of 42,000 livres, which, though
she was entirely ignorant of the real needs of the place,
she insisted should not be used for any other purpose.
Mile. Mance and the other practical people on the spot
could see no earthly use in diverting such a sum from
the Huron mission and other needs of the colony to a
building without prospect of occupation. The idea had
been that of Monsieur de la Dauversiere, the collector
of taxes who, with M. Olier of the Seminary, had
planned out this extraordinary colony on a visionary
foundation. In a year or so, however, the Iroquois
began to attack the place, and then the hospital turned
out of use. It has ever since continued to bless immense
multitudes of sick. The original building was erected
on St. Paul Street, not far from Custom House Square.
It was " 60 feet long by 24 feet wide, with a kitchen, a
chamber for Mile. Mance, others for servants, and 2
large apartments for the patients. It was amply pro-
vided with furniture, linen, medicines and all necessaries ;
and possessed 2 oxen, 3 cows, and 20 sheep. A small
oratory of stone was built adjoining. The enclosure
was 4 arpents (acres) in length." It was fortified by

80 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

palisades. The Antiquarian Society's tablet on the
front wall of the present institution relates the story of
its establishment in its present place : " Hotel Dieu de
Ville-Marie, founded in 1644 by Jeanne Mance. Trans-
ferred in 1 86 1 to this land, given by Benoit and Gabriel
Basset Removal of the remains of Jeanne Mance and
178 nuns, 1 86 1." The religieuses of the Hotel Dieu are
known as " the Black Nuns." Such of them as have
taken the vows of " the cloistered " never leave the
premises.

Mile. Mance, the foundress, was an enthusiast of the
extremest type. Her childhood itself is said to have been
taken up with extraordinary vows, and miraculous
visions and portents were with her to the end of her life.
Her arm was cured of palsy at the grave of Olier ;
visions pointed out to her her mission at Ville-Marie.
Hither she came, with three female servants, the only
women in the company. She died in 1673, and was
buried in the Hotel Dieu ; but her heart was to have
been placed as a relic in the sanctuary lamp of Notre
Dame. A flood, however, 22 years later, which destroyed
the old Hotel Dieu, carried it off.

The Grey Nuns' Hospital takes its current name
from the grey costume of its community. More even
than the Hotel Dieu, this institution strikes one by its
monastic vastness and severity of outline, extending
over great part of a large four-square street-block. It
was founded, in 1747, by Madame d'Youville (Marie
Marguerite du Frost de la Jemmerais), the widow of an
officer. Many curious objects, made by, or belonging
to, her, and illustrating the state of her times, belong to

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 8 1

the institution, such as delicate embroidery and her
enamelled clasp-knife.

The nuns are said to have received their name at
first in hatred, for malice was rife against them and the
foundress, on the part of the Governor of the town and
the leading inhabitants, from their foundation, and they
were accused, among the common people, of the use
of alcohol and other atrocious qualities. This arose
from the old Hospital General, founded in 1694, and
until then conducted inefficiently by monks, having
been placed under her direction by the Bishop. The
people took the part of the monks. Her kind treatment
of the English prisoners shows her to have been an
estimable woman, and won afterwards the esteem of the
conquerors.

The nuns are always glad to receive visitors, of whom
a great many attend. Every New Year's there is a
formal reception, when the sisters stand in two rows and
receive all-comers, after an old custom. Great numbers
of infants are left by unknown parties at the institution,
the immense majority of which, unfortunately, die in a
short time. It is also an asylum for the sick, maimed,
infirm, aged, insane and desolate of all sects. In 1870
they built the present vast stone building. It contains
more than 320 rooms. There are over 100 sisters and
about 100 novices. Support is principally derived
from the rents of houses and lands belonging to the
Order and the united industries of the Sisterhood.

The daughter of the celebrated Ethan Allen, the
founder of Vermont State, and leader of " The Green
Mountain Boys," died a member of this order. A

82 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

tradition is related that during her girlhood, long before
her conversion to Catholicism, she was pursued by a
terrible monster, who attacked her as she was walking
by a river. She was saved by an old man, whose
features and appearance were thenceforth vividly stamped
upon her memory. She was afterwards sent to a
convent in Montreal for her education, and became a
Romanist. Returning, she visited this convent among
some others. She was struck by a picture of St. Joseph,
and stood in front of it gazing. " There," exclaimed
she, pointing to it, " is he, my preserver ! " and went on
to explain ; and thereupon she decided to take the vows
of the Grey Nuns ! So runs the tale. The picture
remains there still.

In the corner of the grounds at Dorchester Street a
tall cross of red-stained wood is to be seen, to which a
history attaches, called The Story of the Red Cross.
The popular narrative is that it marks the grave of a
notorious highwayman, who robbed and murdered
Jiabitants returning from Montreal to St. Laurent and
the back country by way of Dorchester Street, which was,
in French times, the only highway west of St. Lawrence
Street through the forest. This story is somewhat
incorrect* Belisle, the man in question, was not a
highway robber ; his crime was housebreaking and a
double murder. He lived on Le Grand Chemin du
Roi, now called Dorchester Street, near this spot. On
the other side of the road, and a little higher up, Jean
Favre and his wife Marie Anne lived, who were reputed
to have money in their house and to be well off.

* On the authority of P. S. Murphy, Esq., of the Antiquarian Society.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 83

Belisle formed the envious project of robbing his neigh-
bour, and accordingly, one dark night, broke into the
house and fired his pistol at Favre, which, however, only
wounding, he stabbed him to death with a large hunting
knife. Favre's wife rushed in to help her husband.
Belisle plunged the knife into her breast, and then
despatched her by a blow of a spade. He was suspected,
and soon after arrested, tried and convicted. The
terrible punishment of breaking alive was then in force
under French law. Belisle was condemned to " torture
ordinary and extraordinary," and then "to have his
arms, legs, thighs and reins broken alive on a scaffold to
be erected in the market-place of this city " (the present
Custom House Square) ; " then put on a rack, his face
towards the sky, to be left to die." The awful sentence
was carried out to the letter, his body buried in Guy
Street, and a Red Cross erected to mark the spot.
The present cross has been moved back a few feet
because of a widening of the street.

The old Grey Nunnery is situated in its stone-walled
yard, now used for coal, near the foot of McGill Street.
The original edifice has been lately removed, but the
larger erections remain still. The walls and remains of
the chapel can be seen from behind, incorporated in
warehouses and stores.

Notre Dame Hospital, on Notre Dame Street, near
Dalhousie Square, is a much smaller institution than the
foregoing, but has, like the General Hospital, an open
door for all creeds, though managed by Roman
Catholics.

84 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

Other large establishments are :

The Asile de la Providence (St. Catherine Street),
under the care of an order of nuns, who, besides
caring for the sick, aged and orphans, have the largest
Insane Asylum of the Province in their house at Longue
Pointe, below the city.

The Institution for Deaf Mutes, St. Denis Street.

The Deaf and Dumb Institution.

The Bon Pasteur Convent, Sherbrooke Street.

The Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum, St. Catherine
Street.

St. Patrick's Orphan Asylum, Dorchester Street,
near Beaver Hall Hill. About 150 inmates.

St. Bridget's Home, Lagauchetiere Street, near
Beaver Hall ; St. Joseph's Asylum, 60 Cathedral Street ;
Nazareth Asylum and Institute for the Blind, 2023 St.
Catherine Street ; Home for the Aged of the Little
Sisters of the Poor, 109 Forfar Street.

UNIVERSITIES.

The celebrated McGill University is one of the finest
in America. The grounds are extensive, tree-grown
and enclosed with a light, black, iron fence, and the
main building, to which an avenue leads from the lodge
gates, stands well back on a rise in the distance. To
the right and left, partly concealed by trees, are the
other buildings of the University. The large and beau-
tiful Greek building to the left is the Redpath Museum ;
on its left is the affiliated Presbyterian College ; below
it the new Library ; further, across McTavish Street,
the Congregational College ; above the Museum, the

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 85

small round tower is the Observatory. In front of the
main building, with its Doric portico, is the grave of
James McGill ; on the right, the Medical College,
towards the rear ; Ferrier Hall (the Methodist affiliated
College), hidden by the other buildings ; then the great
McDonald Technical School ; nearer still, the handsome
Workman Laboratory of Physics ; and on the extreme
left, forming the corner of University Street, the Donalda
Ladies' Department. The foreground is occupied by
college campus and walks. Behind the whole, Mount
Royal rises prominently as a refreshing green back-
ground.

The institution is entirely the result of the private
munificence of a succession of large-hearted merchants.
The first and most honoured was the founder, James
McGill, one of the old Scotch fur traders, who, in 1813,
bequeathed £10,000 and his lands of sixty-four acres
here, known as the Manor of Burnside, to the Royal
Institution for the Advancement of Learning. His
town residence and warehouse was in a building opposite
the City Hall, which bears a tablet of the Antiquarian
Society. His country house of Burnside stood a short
distance down McGill College Avenue, where the syna-
gogue is built. His portrait in the college represents
him as a stout, pleasant-tempered man, of superior
intelligence, in a powdered queue.

The blue-stone monument over his remains in McGill
College Grounds reads as below. Part of the letters
seem to have been re-cut on removal from the old
Dorchester Street Cemetery, and in doing this a mistake
has occurred in saying the " 4th" instead of the " ist "

86 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

Battalion. " To the memory of the Honourable James
McGill, a native of Glasgow, North Britain, and being
several years a representative of the City of Montreal
in the Legislative Assembly, and Colonel of the 4th
Battalion of Montreal Militia, who departed this life
on the 1 9th day of December, 1813, in his 6pth
year. In his loyalty to his sovereign, and in ability,
integrity, industry and zeal as a magistrate, and in the
other relations of public and private life, he was con-
spicuous ; his loss is accordingly sincerely and greatly
regretted." Lower down, near the base, we read : " This
monument, and the remains which it covers, were
removed from the old Protestant Cemetery, Dorchester
Street, and placed here in grateful remembrance of the
founder of this University; 25 June, 1875."

One Desrivieres, his step-son, whom he had generously
made his heir, did his best to thwart the bequest by
refusing possession of either the land or the money, and
even had the singular ill-faith to plead at law that the
trustees had not built the college within the time — ten
years — stated in the will. The judge severely com-
mented on his conduct, compelled him to render up
both money and land, and the institution was begun.
Its early fortunes were so varied, that it was forced to
sacrifice the most of its land, which extended down to
Dorchester Street, and at one time it is said that only
the tenacity of a man of superior temperament and
intelligence, Professor William Turnbull Leach, later
Archdeacon of Montreal, kept it in existence. It has
now possessions valued at several millions. Morrin
College, Quebec, and St. Francis College, Richmond,

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. S/

are colleges of the University. The University is
undenominational Protestant. Its faculties are : Arts,
Medicine, Applied Science, Law and Comparative Ana-
tomy. Of these, the Medical is most widely celebrated.
The entire number of students is about 1,000, sending
out annually a stream of educated men who achieve
the highest positions. The Principal is Sir William
Dawson.

The Redpath Museum, especially the great hall, is
finished and arranged very beautifully in Greek spirit.
Among other things, it contains on exhibition a magni-
ficent geological collection, the work, in large part, of
Sir William Dawson ; the model of a gigantic megathe-
rium, a weird collection of wood-carvings by the Thlin-
kit Indians of the Pacific Coast, the exquisite shell
collection of the late Dr. P. P. Carpenter, aboriginal
skulls and remains from the site of Montreal and other
localities, and the skelton of a whale caught in the St.
Lawrence opposite the city.

The Redpath Library is a recent gift capable of
holding 150,000 volumes. It contains about 35,000, and
has spacious reading-rooms for men and women, and
study-rooms of the best construction, with other appli-
ances. Though small in number of books, it is especially
rich in works relating to Canada, in historical pamphlets,
and in scientific works. The fac-simile of Domesday
Book and its iron chest is a curiosity. Besides this
general library, others of considerable value are found
in the Medical College, the Faculty of Applied Science,
and the various Theological Colleges, that of Morrice
Hall (Presbyterian) being most notable.

88 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

The McDonald Technical Building should be gone
over. It is one of the best-equipped buildings for
technical training in America.

The Workman Physics Building is also very
interesting.

The amusements of the students are mainly football,
tennis, cricket and general athletics. The campus and
tennis-grounds are good for these purposes.

Bishops' University (Episcopal) and Victoria Uni-
versity are represented in Montreal by Medical Colleges
only.

Laval University, of Quebec (French Roman Catho-
lic), is in process of establishing itself here, and will
probably do so on a large scale. It has a flourishing
law school, and is taking over the Victoria Medical
College, but has not yet erected buildings.

OTHER EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS.

The duality of Protestant and Catholic is even more
sharply denned in educational institutions than in
benevolent. The Provincial Council of Public Instruc-
tion is divided into two — a Protestant and a Catholic
branch, and taxation is separate. Local management is
in the hands of separate Boards of Protestant and
Catholic Commissioners. The chief schools under the
former in Montreal are the High School for Boys and
High School for Girls, which occupy different portions
of the High School Building on Peel Street, and the
Normal School, for training of teachers, on Belmont
Street. The number of pupils in the first is about 250 ;
in the second, about 300 ; and in the last, about 100.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 89

The Boys' High School was originally the Royal
Grammar School, and afterwards a department of
McGill University. There are in the city sixteen
common schools under the Protestant Commissioners,
besides Trafalgar Institute for Women and many good
private schools, such as the College of Commerce
(Drummond Street) and the Business College (Victoria
Square).

The principal schools of the Roman Catholic Com-
missioners are the Plateau Street Academy and the
Ecole Normale on Sherbrooke Street, both excellent
French schools, occupying noble buildings. They are
for boys alone, Roman Catholic girls being sent to
convents.

The Catholic Commissioners have, besides, a number
of other schools under their care. Altogether, the city
contains 4 Catholic "colleges," 36 "academies," 31
" schools."

Some of the French establishments are interesting
from their historical associations or foreign air. Those
named colleges are of the nature of high schools.

The Seminaire de St. Sulpice, or Grand Seminary,
for the training of priests, has been already described
under Place d'Armes.

Its junior branch, the College de Montreal, or Petit
Se'minaire, is situated on Sherbrooke Street West, on
" the Priests' Farm," an ancient property of the Order.
Its large buildings are built upon the site of one of the
earliest edifices of Montreal, the country house of the
Grand Seminary, known as the Maison des Messieurs,
or Fort de la Montagne, around which the village of the

90 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

Indian converts was placed. The Maison des Messieurs,
now represented by two historic towers, standing as
relics of a mediaeval past, was a large rough old edifice
of plastered stone, three stories high in the centre and
two elsewhere, surmounted by roofs resembling those
of the present Grand Seminary, pinnacled and curved
in the inimitable old French roof-curves. An extensive

THE OLD SEMINARY TOWERS.

stone wall enclosed it for purposes of fortifications,
while the pair of towers formed part of the wall in front,
and between them was the entrance. In a walled
enclosure adjoining, to the eastward, was the Indian
village ; in another, to westward, large gardens. One of
the old towers, in very early times, was used as a chapel
of the Indian mission established here, the other being
used as a school. A tablet in the former reads in

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 91

French : " Here rest the mortal remains of Frangois
Thoronhiongo, Huron ; baptized by the Reverend Pere
Breboeuf. He was by his piety and by his probity the
example of the Christians and the admiration of the
unbelievers: he died, aged about 100 years, the 2ist
April, 1690."

What untold histories, traditions and reminiscences
doubtless died with this centenarian savage ! And
baptized by Pere Breboeuf ! The latter was a hero of
one of the most dreadful martyrdoms recorded. In
1649, he and Father Lalement, both Jesuits, were tor-
tured to death by Iroquois with, every cruelty devisable.

In the other, " the Schoolmistress of the Mountain,"
an Indian sister of great repute for sainthood, taught,
and to her a memorial reads as follows : " Here rest the
mortal remains of Marie Therese Gannensagouas, of the
Congregation of Notre Dame. After having exercised
during 13 years the office of schoolmistress at the
Mountain, she died in reputation of great virtue, aged
28 years, the 25th November, 1695."

Over the door of the western wing one reads : " Hie
evangelibantur Indi " — " Here the Indians were evan-
gelized."

A tablet on the wall in front, on Sherbrooke Street,
records the founding of the Indian mission in 1677, and
the facts concerning the Towers.

Some distance along the wall eastwards is still another
tablet, marking the position of General Amherst's army
at the time of the surrender of the town to the English
power.

Within the grounds may often be seen crowds of

92 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

boys uniformed in black frock coats, blue sashes and
peaked caps, playing ball or tennis in their high
stationary tennis-court, or discoursing music as a well-
equipped band. Within the college the theatre would
be found an important amusement. The curriculum is
divided into two parts : theology and philosophy. Boys
are taken from early years upwards. In the last years
they choose either to study for the priesthood or for
other occupations, and thus separate. The course is
based largely on the classical languages, declamation
and the philosophy of Thomas Aquinas. The number
of pupils and students of all parts of the institution is
about 450.

Further up on the hill, for the Seminary here owns an
immensely valuable and large tract, stand two other
buildings, one an old country house of the order, with
grove of trees and ornamental pond, the other, higher
up, a handsome new institution for the headquarters of
the Order.

St. Mary's College, the school of the Jesuit Fathers,
has been referred to in connection with the Church
of the Gesu, which it adjoins, on Bleury Street.

The Board of Arts Schools, on St. Gabriel Street,
opposite the Champ de Mars, should be added as
meriting inspection.

The Christian Brothers' Schools are on Cote Street.

For girls, the great convents are those of the Nuns of
the Congregation, Mount St. Mary and the Hochelaga
Convent. Their curriculum consists chiefly of the
accomplishments : music, sewing, religious instruction,
deportment, etc.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 93

The Nuns of the Congregation, or Sisters of the
Congregation de Notre Dame, are the great teaching
order, having convents in most of the large villages of
the Province and many others throughout Canada and
the United States. They have here their two most
interesting establishments of the kind, being the older
and newer mother houses of the community. Both
buildings are of historic interest. The older is in the
lower town, and reached by a gateway from Notre
Dame Street, opposite St. Lambert Hill ; the newer is
a vast and magnificent structure, whose group of spires
appears prominently on the extreme south-westerly
slope of Mount Royal.

One of the most famous pioneers of French Canada,
Marguerite Bourgeoys, the earliest school teacher of the
colony, a devoted and sensible person, founded the
order. She is greatly revered in the history of her
people. Her first school was established at Boucher-
ville, on the opposite side of the St. Lawrence, at a
point now marked by a memorial inscribed cross. On
entering the quaint gateway from Notre Dame Street,
one sees to the right the gable of the curious little
building of stone, described previously as Notre Dame
de Victoire, one of the most antique relics of Montreal's
past.

Passing on, one sees ahead a cut-stone church, of no
great size, but bearing an inscription stating that it is
erected on the site of one built in 1693 by Marguerite
Bourgeoys herself. A view to the left from this point
shows the convent surrounding its court-yard in the
shape of ranges of buildings of an ancient appearance.

94 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

Within are many quaint relics, among others a curious
contemporary painting in black and white of Mdlle. Le
Ber. A tablet reads : " Congregation of Notre Dame,
founded by Marguerite Bourgeoys. Convent built 1686.
Jeanne Le Ber lived here solitary from 1695 to 1714"

The newer mother-house, called Villa Maria, is, as
has been stated, on the Mountain-side at Cote St.
Antoine, where it is especially prominent at the hour
when its spires cross the sunset. A magnificent chapel
is the chief attraction. There are large grounds, which
originally belonged to an old family named Monk,
whence the name Monklands, and afterwards were the
place of residence of several of the Governor-Generals.
Their dwelling is incorporated among the new buildings.
The number of sisters here is about 270 ; but the order
has 105 establishments, with some 1,200 sisters and
about 25,000 pupils.

The Hochelaga Convent and Mount St. Mary are
convents of a similar nature, but much less splendor or
interest. A number of American pupils are boarders.

RELIGIOUS ORDERS.

Several communities of old-world monks and cloistered
nuns are represented in Montreal.

The Trappists, though only occasionally seen as
single members on the streets, are a most interesting
Order, exhibiting a perfect picture of a mediaeval com-
munity of monks. They wear a long coarse brown
woollen robe and cowl, shave the head and observe
perpetual silence, except when spoken to by their
Superior. Their specialty is agriculture, and their head-

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 95

quarters their monastery and beautiful farm of 1,000
acres at Oka, some 30 miles above the city. There
every person is hospitably received and kept as long as
he desires to stay, on the understanding that he does so
for religious meditation. The curious mediaeval meals
of bread and vegetables twice a day, the wondrous old
psalters used by each monk in the chapel, the strange
silence, the flagellation scourges, cells, rude beds, and
the intense absorption of some of the devotees make up
a fascinating sight.

The Carmelites are nuns of a still severer regime,
and have their convent at Hochelaga. Its walls are
very high, and the sisters (who are few in number) have,
by the vows of this order, renounced the sight of the
outside world for the remainder of their lives. The
lives of cloistered nuns, even when of teaching or
hospital orders, are always sad : what, then, must those
of these sisters be ?

SOCIETIES.

Literature, Science, Art, History, Antiquarianism.

The Natural History Society was mentioned in con-
nection with its Museum.

The Numismatic and Antiquarian Society is the
most active of the historical associations. It was founded
December 15, 1862, under the title of "The Numismatic
Society of Montreal," with a membership of French
and English gentlemen — a dual racial character which
has happily characterized it ever since, and makes it one
of the not least effective influences of harmony and
goodwill in the community. In 1866 the name was

96 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

changed to its present title, and in 1869 an act of
incorporation was obtained. In the Natural History
Museum the society preserves and adds to its consider-
able collection of coins, medals, maps, books and
manuscripts. In the Caxton celebration year it held a
memorable exhibition of rare books ; in 1887, a unique
exhibition of historical portraits, the catalogue of which
remains a list of value 'to historians; the Maisonneuve
Monument is its proposal ; and the Historical Tablets,
suggested by one of its members, have been erected by
this society. It publishes the valuable Antiquarian
Journal.

The Socie'te' Historique, another old society, has also
done valuable work, re-published a number of most rare
manuscripts, including Dollier de Casson's " Histoire du
Montreal," and has in hand a proposed monument for
the landing-place of Maisonneuve, to consist of a granite
obelisk, with inscription. The society contains, among
other possessions, the Sabretache portfolio of Com-
mander Jacques Viger, which furnished material to the
historians Parkman and Kingsford.

The Society for Historical Studies published Cana-
diana for some years, and assisted in disseminating the
love of history.

The Society of Canadian Literature opened up the
field of Canadian letters, and still exists for occasional
work of the same nature.

The Folk-Lore Club, the Shakespeare Club, the
Microscopical Society, the Horticultural Society,
Mendelssohn Choir, Philharmonic Society, are some
names of the better-known associations.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 97

SPORTS, PASTIMES, THEATRES, CLUBS, ETC.
A thletics.

Athletics are the delight of Montreal. Here alone
are the Winter Carnival and Ice Palace possible — at
least, at their best. Here, too, the Indian pleasures of
the lacrosse, the toboggan and the snowshoe, associated
with the bright old voyageur blanket costume, are in
their native air ; here the Scotch curling-rinks took root
generations ago as solidly-established institutions ; while
cricket, football, tennis, fox-hunting, fishing, shooting,
rowing, yachting, golf and all the Anglo-Saxon games
are devotedly pursued, The use of the blanket costume
for purposes of sport is attributed by some to the
enthusiasm of the British army colony ; but there is no
doubt but that it is a legacy from the Old North-
Westers.

The Montreal Amateur Athletic Association is the
largest organization of the athletic interest. It has
some 2,000 members, a well-equipped club-house and
headquarters, and a large stretch of superb grounds on
the west edge of the city. The association had its
beginning, in 1840, in the shape of the Montreal Snow-
shoe Club, now familiarly known as " the Old Tuque
Blue," from the blue woollen habitant's liberty cap,
worn as a part of the costume. The club, in conse-
quence of its long standing, preserves a rich display of
trophies in its rooms. It has always thrown its influence
on the side of temperance, public progress and national
spirit. It has at times organized vigorous movements
against attempts to establish saloons within its district ;

98 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

has given large numbers of its members to the militia,
especially in times of danger ; and was the originator
and mainstay of the winter carnivals and of the snow-
shoe concert. In winter its snowshoers tramp over the
Mountain or to Lachine, and sometimes farther, ending
up by a jolly dance and supper ; in summer, the games
of lacrosse on its suburban grounds absorb the same
interest. Lacrosse, as played on these grounds, is the
most spectacular game existing. Its simplicity, the
rapidity and grace of flight of the ball, and the lightning
changes of fortune or strokes of skill, immediately
enchain the attention and excite the blood.

The clubs now included in the Association are : The
Montreal Snowshoe Club, the Montreal Lacrosse Club,
the Montreal Bicycle Club, the Tuque Bleue Toboggan
Club, the Montreal Football Club, the Montreal Gym-
nasium, the M.A.A.A. Dramatic Club, the Cinderella
Club, the Montreal Fencing Club, the Montreal Hockey
Club, the Tuque Bleue Skating Rink, the Montreal
Baseball Club, the Montreal Chess Club.

The club-house is on the corner of Mansfield and
Berthelet Streets. It contains, besides the gymnasium,
reading, bowling, shooting and billiard-rooms, offices
and a number of committee and other apartments.

The St. George's Snowshoe Club is also a large
affair. Its house is on the hillside at Cote St. Antoine.
The membership originally consisted principally of
Englishmen, whence the name St. George's. This
club, like the M.A.A.A., has tramps and dances in
winter, and is very popular.

Le Trappeur is the principal French Snowshoe Club.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 99

Its costume is blue and white. The club rooms are on
St. Lawrence Street, at the corner of Craig.

The Victoria Skating Rink, on Drummond Street,
is an old institution, with history and prestige, a very
large skating hall, and fame for fancy dress carnivals.

A number of other athletic clubs exist, but are more
subject to change than the foregoing.

The Montreal Hunt Club's elegant " Kennels," on
the Papineau Road, are the locale of very favourite balls.
The pack is an old one, which has been improved upon
from the foundation of the club in 1826. The fox-
hunting of the club is done in the country districts of
the island immediately surrounding the city, and their
" breakfasts " at the table of some friend or member are
"recherche affairs." They also hold steeplechases and
other races every year.

Canoeing, boating and yachting are much in vogue,
though usually carried on in the watering-places which
surround the island, such as Lachine, Dorval, Valois,
Pte. Claire, Ste. Anne, Longueuil, Laprairie and Ste.
Rose. The Lachine, Valois and Ste. Anne Boat Clubs'
club-houses are the chief centres of such amusements.
Regattas are held at these places and others during the
season.

Theatres.

The principal Theatres are : The Academy of Music,
Victoria Street ; the Queen's Theatre, St. Catherine
Street, near English Cathedral ; the Theatre Royal,
Cot£ Street. Sohmer Park, on Notre Dame Street
East, is a " garden " where musical and French variety
performances are given.

100 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

Clubs.

St. James' Club, Dorchester Street West, established
in 1857, is the leading social club. It has 460 members
and a finely-appointed club-house.

The Metropolitan Club, on Beaver Hall Hill, is a
flourishing resort of younger men.

The City Club is the down-town dining-place of
many business men.

The St. Denis Club, St. Denis Street, is the leading
French Club.

The M.A.A.A. and Y.M.C.A. club-houses serve most
of the purposes of social clubs to their members.

FIFTY YETO 7160.

Imprinted from a rare collection of original woodblocks now in the
possession of Mr. H. T. Martin.

MONTREAL FROM COTE DES NEIGES HILL.

MONKLANDS.

PLACE D'ARMES.

BANK OF MONTREAL.
(With the Dome.)

THE (IMPERIAL) CUSTOM HOUSE TILL 1830.

(South cor. Notre Dame and St. Gabriel Streets.)

OLD ST. GEORGE'S CHURCH.

(St. Joseph Street.)

HISTORICAL AND LEGENDARY.

ABORIGINAL NAME OF THE ISLAND.

'HE Savages name it, wrote Pere Vimont in the
Jesuit Relation for 1642, Minitik 8ten EntagSgi-
ban — " Isle where there was a town."

THE DEMONS.

What a delightful sample of mediaeval fancy — that
these asphalted, crowded, too-civilized streets were once
the veritable haunts of imps and Lucifers ! On the
1 5th of August, 1642, the colonists solemnized "the
first Festival of this Holy Isle."

"The thunder of the cannon," wrote Pere Vimont,
" echoed through the entire Island, and the Demons,
though accustomed to thunder, were terrified at a sound
which spoke of the love we bear to the Great Mistress ;
I doubt not also that the tutelary Angels of the Savages
and of these countries have marked this day in the
holidays of Paradise."

104 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

THE ORIGINATORS OF VILLE-MARIE.

The first and calmest originator of the idea of a town
here was Champlain. Of a different nature was the
visionary Jerome Le Royer de La Dauversiere, who
conceived the idea anew a generation later, owing,
doubtless, to the fascinating Relations sent home and
published throughout France by the Jesuit missionaries.
Pere Olier, whom some (but not the early historian
De Belmont, himself of Olier's own Order) claim to
have also separately originated the plan, met him at
Meudon at the office of the Keeper of the Seal. " On
issuing from the audience with the minister, he met,
under the gallery, a man of miserable appearance, who
arrived from La Fleche, and waited his turn at the
audience. It was a poor collector of taxes, without
wealth, without influence, without charm of speech nor
of exterior, and whom Providence charged with one of
the strangest and most difficult missions for his station :
the establishment of a community of hospital nuns to
serve a hospital which was non-existent, in a town to be
founded, and in a country scarcely even discovered ! "
" He was accustomed to discipline himself every day,
and wore a belt and gloves full of very sharp spikes."
Abbe de Belmont relates that before this he had con-
sulted Pere La Chaise, who approved the design, and
had won to himself the Baron de Faucamp, a rich
devotee. Olier joined him at once, gave him 100 louis
d'or, and negociated for him a grant of the island from
its then proprietor, de Lauzon, a man noted chiefly in
the history of Canada for his unblushing and stupendous
land-grabs.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. IO5

The Company of Notre Dame de Montreal, which
they formed, consisted of forty-five persons of quality,
including "Madame la Princesse." All the court are
said to have contributed. In 1640 they sent over
twenty casks of provisions ; in 1641, the little colony
with their leader Maisonneuve.

There is one thing to be explained away by the
friends of de la Dauversiere, and which serves to show
the weakness of his character. He was the treasurer of
the associates ; as such, he received, among other sums,
one of 12,000 livres of Madame de Bullion's moneys
intended for the hospital, which, though he was hope-
lessly insolvent, he took to pay a private debt of his
own, and could never repay.

THE LANDING-PLACE OF JACQUES CARTIER IN 1535.

The exact locality is disputed. Mr. Gerald Hart, no
mean authority, contends that it was at the foot of the
Lachine Rapids. It is generally, however, held to be
be at the foot of St. Mary's current, where a tablet is
being erected concerning it, at the end of Dezery Street.

As a point in determining the spot, I suggest that it
is not likely the Indians would have crossed a stream
(the Little River) to get from their town to the St.
Lawrence, as they would have had to do had the
" broad road " by which Cartier passed to it led from
the Rapids.

SECOND VISIT OF JACQUES CARTIER, 1540.
The object of this visit was to learn about the country
beyond the Rapids. Cartier left his fort near Quebec
on the 7th of September. On the nth he arrived at

IO6 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

" the first Rapid, which is two leagues from the Town
of Tutonaguy" Was this another term for Hochelaga ?
My conjecture is that Tutonaguy was the name of its
Agonhanna, or " Lord and King of the Country ; " and
that "the first Rapid " was the St. Mary's current. In
any case, the passage throws light on Indian life on the
island :

" And after we arrived at that locality, we took
counsel to go as far as possible with one of the boats,
and that the other should remain there till our return ;
so we doubled the men in the boat so as to beat against
the current of the said rapid. And after we had got
far from our other boat, we found bad bottom and large
rocks, and so great a current of water that it was not
possible to pass beyond with our boat. Whereupon the
captain concluded to go by land to see the nature and
force of the said Rapid. And after landing, we found
near the shore a road and beaten path leading to the
said Rapids. And proceeding, we shortly after found
the dwelling of a tribe who welcomed us and received
us with much friendship. And after we told them we
went to the Rapids, and wished to go to Saguenay, four
young people come with us to show us the way, and led
us so far that we came to another village or dwelling of
good people, who live opposite the second Rapid."
Then follows some lame geographical palaver. Return-
ing to their boats, they found about 400 people, who
seemed very joyous at their arrival. Cartier, however,
was then in bad odor with the Indians, and while
distributing presents to these people, kept his guard,
and at once went back down the river.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. IO/

THE FOUNDING OF THE CITY.

The colonists left la Rochelle in two little vessels in
the spring of 1641. On the first was de Maisonneuve
and 25 men ; Mile. Mance, Pere Laplace and 12 men
on the other. The latter reached Quebec first. Furious
storms drove Maisonneuve's vessel three times back.
At last, on the 24th of August, he arrived. The
Governor, de Montmagny, and the old colonists desired
greatly to keep them at Quebec for the mutual protec-
tion, there being only some 200 French in all in the
country, and de Montmagny proposed to them the Isle
of Orleans near by. " What you propose," replied de
Maisonneuve, " would be well had I been sent to con-
sider and choose a post : but the company who send me
having fixed that I shall go to Montreal, my honour is
concerned, and I shall go up to begin a colony, though
all the trees in that island should change into so many
Iroquois ! " Hence, de Montmagny, with Vimont,
Superior of the Jesuits, and some others, went up, and
on the 1 5th of October "fulfilled on the spot the cere-
monies prescribed for such things, and took possession
of the island in the name of the Company of Montreal."

On the 8th of May, 1642, a little fleet of two barks, a
pinnace and a gabare left their resting-places near Quebec,
and nine days later, on the i8th of May, the ultimate
landing at Montreal took place.

On the 1 9th of May the woodwork of the Fort was
raised. The cannon were placed upon it. Twelve men
had been brought, among whom were Minime, the
carpenter. The Iroquois, the first year, were quite
ignorant of the existence of the Fort. In 1643, ten

108 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

Algonquins, having killed an Iroquois in their country,
were pursued by the river up to the Fort. The Iroquois
then reconnoitred it. This was the precursor of those
fierce and incessant attacks which made Montreal the
Siege Perilous of early America. The narratives of
these encounters had frequently some marvel added by
popular story, such as :

THE LEGEND OF THE MIRACULOUS HANDKERCHIEF
OF PERE LE MAISTRE.

Pere Le Maistre, a devout priest under Olier, came
out to the Seminary at Montreal. On the 2pth of
August, 1 66 1, he accompanied the harvesters into the
fields of Fort St. Gabriel, a little fortified farm enclosure
now within the edge of the city, where he constituted
himself the guard, reciting meanwhile his breviary. He
passed so near some Iroquois lying concealed in the
brushwood that they, believing themselves discovered,
sprang upon him with fierce war cries. Careless of
peril to himself, he called out to his men to run. The
savages, seeing their prey escaping, took revenge upon
him, cut off his head, and carried it off in a handker-
chief. But his features, say the accounts of the time,
remained imprinted thereon. " What is peculiar," they
write, " is that there was no blood on the handkerchief,
and that it was very white. It appeared on the upper
side like a very fine white wax, which bore the face of
the servant of God." They say even that it spoke to
them at times and reproached them for their cruelty,
and that, in order to free themselves of this oracle which

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. IO9

terrified them, they sold the handkerchief to the English.
Hoondoroen, the murderer, became converted, and died
at the mission of St. Sulpice."

THE HEAD OF JEAN SAINT PERE.

" In the autumn of 1657 there was a truce with the
Iroquois, under cover of which three or four of them
came to the settlement. Nicolas Gode and Jean St.
Pere (notary royal) were on the roof of their house,
laying thatch, when one of the visitors aimed his arque-
buse at St. Pere and brought him to the ground. Now
ensued a prodigy, for the assassins, having cut off his
head and carried it home to their village, were amazed
to hear it speak to them in good Iroquois, scold them
for their perfidy and threaten them with the vengeance
of Heaven ; and they continued to hear its voice of
admonition even after scalping it and throwing away
the skull." — Parkmaris Old Regime.

THE DEATH OF LAMBERT CLOSSE.

Closse, the brave town major, found, with disappoint-
ment, that his various companions were one by one
falling from time to time in the Iroquois fighting.
" And yet," complained he, " I came to Ville-Marie only
to die for God, in serving Him in the profession of arms.
Had I known I would not perish so, I should quit this
land and serve against the Turks, that I might not lose
this glory." God satisfied him on the 6th of February,
1662. Some colonists, working in his fields, being
attacked by a band of Iroquois, he ran at once to their
defence, according to his custom, and would have saved

110 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

them except for the cowardice of a Fleming, who
deserted him. Closse fell in the encounter, and thus
achieved the glory he so often desired.

The place of the combat was somewhere near the
corner of Craig Street and St. Lambert Hill (which
receives its name from his own). The Antiquarian
Society's tablet, erected on the the south corner of St.
Lambert Hill and St. James Street, near the site of his
house, reads : " Near to this place Raphael Lambert
Closse, first Town Major of Ville-Marie, fell bravely
defending some colonists attacked by Iroquois, 6th
February, 1662. In his honour St. Lambert Hill
received its name." The name was given ten years
afterwards, showing that his heroism was not easily
forgotten.

ANOTHER IROQUOIS FIGHT.

Another of the many stirring deeds of those days is
related on a tablet on the corner of Campeau and
Lagauchetiere Streets : " Here Trudeau, Roulier and
Langevin-Lacroix resisted 50 Iroquois."

The incident took place in 1662. "The sixth of
May," writes Dollier de Casson, the blood of the soldier
stirring under his cassock, "a fine fight was made at
Ste. Marie. The Seminary had established the post of
that name at the lower end of the settlement, in the
same way as St. Gabriel above. It was opposite the
little rapid down the harbour, still known as St. Mary's
Current, and was placed among some fifty acres which
had been cleared and cultivated, in prehistoric days, by
the Indians. The three men were returning to the
habitation after their day's work in the fields, when one

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. Ill

of them suddenly cried : " To arms, the enemy are upon
us ! " At the same moment a large party of Iroquois,
who had been lurking near by all day, rose and fired.
Each Frenchman seized his musket and fled to a hole
near by, called " the Redoubt." This they held stoutly
till rescued by DeBelestre, commandant at Ste. Marie,
and after a brisk fight, the enemy finally retired to the
woods.

BOLLARD DES ORMEAUX.

But the grand legend of Ville-Marie is the Story of
Bollard. A little old French street, now used as a lane,
off St. James Street, bears his name to-day, and the
tablet on it, near the latter street, runs : " To Adam
Dollard des Ormeaux, who, with 16 colonists, 4 Algon-
quins and I Huron, sacrificed their lives at the Long Sault
of the Ottawa, 2ist May, 1660, and saved the Colony."

The narrative in the " Jesuit Relations " is somewhat
as follows : Forty of the sad remnant of the once-great
Hurons — destroyed by the merciless warfare of the
Iroquois, " who only breathe the air of war " — led by a
chief of renown named Anahotaha, left Quebec in the
spring of 1660 on the warpath. At Three Rivers, six
Algonquins joined them, under the chief MitiSemeg.
At Montreal they found that seventeen French had
already united with the same design, generously
sacrificing themselves for the public good and the
defence of religion. They had chosen for their chief
the Sieur Dollard, who, though only lately arrived from
France, was found the right man for this kind of war,
and eager to take part in it. He is said to have been
an army officer in France, and to have committed an

112 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

offence, which he was anxious to wash away by some
heroic sacrifice. They all shrived themselves solemnly
in the Parish Church, and set out together with courage.
They marched by night, and dragged their canoes
through the icy waters and remnants of snow till they
came to the foot of " the Long Leap " of the Ottawa
River, and posted themselves to await the coming of
the Iroquois hunters, who, according to their custom,
would pass along in single file returning from their
winter hunt. They were no sooner posted than per-
ceived by the Iroquois. A skirmish took place with
five of the enemy, and soon afterwards about 200
Onondagas appeared in war-dress descending the rapid
in their canoes. The French party, surprised and
seeing themselves so feeble in numbers, rushed and took
possession of a wretched ruin of a fort erected there by
some Algonquins in the autumn. There they entrenched
themselves as best they could. The Onondagas crept
up and finally attacked with fury. They were repulsed
with loss. Despairing of success by force, they had
resort to their Indian methods, requesting a parley,
but at the same time secretly sending off for the
Mohawks. And while on one side of the fort appar-
ently peaceable, they suddenly attacked it on the other ;
but the French were on their guard. They were for a
short time disheartened ; but soon after, the Mohawks,
estimated at 500, came up with whoops so horrible and
loud, that all the region around seemed full of Iroquois.
Firing kept up day and night, attacks were sharp and
frequent, and the French employed the intervals kneel-
ing in constant prayer. So passed ten days.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 1 13

Thirst now became pressing, for the river was 200
paces away, and this want caused the Indian allies to
send and treat for peace with the enemy. On assur-
ances of life, thirty leaped the palisades and deserted,
thus fatally weakening the besieged. Messengers were
then sent forward to propose surrender to the latter ;
but the French for answer fired upon them. This so
enraged the Iroquois, that they all rose up, ferociously
rushed at the palisade with heads down, and began to
sap it with their axes in the face of the heavy fire.
The French called up all their courage and industry in
this extremity. Among other efforts they took up a
keg of powder, lit a fuse to it, and threw it out among
the assailants. It unfortunately struck a branch, sprang
back into the fort, and exploded, burning most of the
defenders and blinding them with its fumes. The
Iroquois were so elated, that they sprang furiously over
the palisade on all sides, hatchet in hand, and filled it
with blood and carnage, killing all but five of the
French and four Hurons, among the slain being the
brave Anahotaha, who, dying, begged his comrades to
thrust his head in the fire, so that no Iroquois should
have the glory of taking his scalp. At this moment
a Frenchman arose. Seeing that all was lost, and that
several of his companions, while fatally wounded, still
survived, he finished them with great strokes of an axe,
to deliver them from the Iroquois fires. The foe took
their revenge by terrible tortures of the living, and by
eating their flesh. But the design, before formed in
their councils, of overrunning and finally exterminating
the French settlement was thenceforward abandoned.

114 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

If seventeen French, with but five allies, could fight so
well, what might the rest do if pushed to an extremity ?
The whole colony was thus saved from peril and de-
struction by the deed of the heroes of the Long Sault.

What though beside the foaming flood untombed their ashes lie,
All earth becomes the monument of men who nobly die.

"The spirit of the enterprise," says Parkman, "was
purely mediaeval. The enthusiasm of honour, the
enthusiasm of adventure and the enthusiasm of faith
were its motive forces. Daulac (Bollard) was a knight
of the early Crusades among the forests and savages of
the New World. Yet the incidents of this exotic
heroism are definite and clear as a tale of yesterday.
The names, ages and occupations of the seventeen
young men may still be read on the ancient register of
the Parish of Montreal."

THE GREAT EARTHQUAKE.

The signs and wonders attributed to the Great Earth-
quake of 1662, which endured for some six months, and
was considered a miraculous time of visitation for the
sins of the colony, were such as these :

" For forty days," says a narrator, " we saw from all
points of this town men on horseback who rushed
through the air richly robed and armed with lances,
like troops of cavalry ; steeds ranged in squadrons
which dashed forth against each other ; combatants,
who joined battle hand to hand ; shields shaken ; a
multitude armed in helmets and naked swords ; where-
fore they prayed God to turn these prodigies to their
advantage."

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. IIS

Another relates: "Earth and heaven spoke to us

many times this year Last autumn we saw

(in the sky) serpents which entwined themselves into
one another and flew through the air bearing wings of

fire."

NAMING OF THE STREETS.

It was the able and genial Dollier de Casson, the
first historian of Montreal, who, as Superior of the
Seminary, laid out the streets in 1672. Notre Dame
Street, drawn through the centre, he named after the
patron saint of the community; St. Paul Street, in
honour of Paul de Chomedy de Maisonneuve ; St. James
Street (Rue St. Jacques), of Jacques Olier ; St. Peter, of
the Baron de Fancamp ; St. Frangois, of himself ; St.
Lambert, of brave Lambert Closse ; St. Gabriel, of Abbe
Gabriel de Queylus and Abbe Gabriel Souart ; and St
Jean Baptiste, of the great French Minister Colbert,
whose extensive reforms extended to Canada.

THE BURNING OF THE FOUR IROQUOIS, 1696.

An eye-witness of the burning of the four Iroquois
on what is now Jacques Cartier Square thus describes
it : " When I came to Montreal for the first time, it was
by the St. Francis Gate. I there saw a man of my
province, who came up to embrace me, which he did
and after some compliments, informed me that he was
of our company. As we were speaking together, he
perceived that I was much distracted because of a large
crowd that I saw on the Place des Jesuites. Thereupon
my new comrade exclaimed : ' Upon my word ! you've
just come in time to see four Iroquois burnt alive.

Il6 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

Come on as far as the Jesuites ; we'll see better.' It was
immediately in front of their door that this bloody
tragedy was to take place. I thought at first they
would throw the poor wretches into a fire ; but on
looking around on all sides, I saw no faggots for the
sacrifice of the victims, and I questioned my new friend
about several small fires which I saw at certain distances
apart from each other. He answered me : ' Patience ;
we are going to have some good laughing.' For some,
however, it was no laughing matter. They led out
these four wild men, who were brothers, and the finest
looking men I have ever seen in my life. Then the
Jesuits baptised them and made them some scanty
exhortations ; for, to speak freely, to do more would
have been ' to wash the head of a corpse.' The
holy ceremony finished, they were taken hold of and
submitted to punishments of which they were the
inventors. They bound them naked to stakes stuck
three or four feet in the ground, and then each of our
Indian allies, as well as several Frenchmen, armed
themselves with bits of red-hot iron, wherewith they
broiled all parts of their bodies. Those small fires
which I had seen served as forges to heat the abominable
instruments with which they roasted them. Their torture
lasted six hours, during which they never ceased to
chant of their deeds of war, while drinking brandy, which
passed down their throats as quickly as if it had been
thrown into a hole in the ground. Thus died these un-
fortunates with an inexpressible constancy and courage.
I was told that what I saw was but a feeble sample of
what they make us suffer when they take us prisoners."

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 1 1/

DWELLING-PLACES OF CELEBRITIES, ETC.
La Salle.

On a building at the corner of St. Peter and St. Paul
Streets is seen the inscription : " Here lived Robert
Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle, 1668."

La Salle, one of the most attractive and chivalrous
characters of those days, was born in 1643, °f a ricn
and ancient merchant family of Rouen ; was with the
Jesuits in his youth ; in 1666, came out to Montreal,
where he had a brother, Abbe Jean Cavelier, a priest of
St. Sulpice. Ville-Marie, the Castle Dangerous of the
time, no doubt attracted his adventurous nature. The
Seminary soon offered to him the grant of a seigniory
of wild lands at Lachine, where he began to found a
settlement, laying out a palisaded village. Hearing,
however, of the Mississippi, his imagination took fire,
and he threw himself into the project of following it to
its mouth, which, he contended, must lead into the Gulf
of Mexico. Frontenac encouraged him, the Seminary
bought out his improvements. He built Fort Frontenac
on the site of Kingston. He went to France, where the
court favoured his projects. In 1679, he embarked on
Lake Erie. He reached the Mississippi in 1682, followed
its course to the Gulf of Mexico, returned to France,
and sailed thence direct to Louisiana, where he perished
by assassination in the wilds by two mutineers among
his men in 1687. Parkman's " La Salle and the Dis-
covery of the Great West " relates at length the brilliant
story of his discoveries.

The house upon the site of which the tablet is placed

Il8 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

has long since disappeared. It was leased by him on
the 1 5th of November, 1668, from Sieur Rabutel de St.
Andre, a comparatively wealthy proprietor of houses.

Du Luth.

On the Place d'Armes, at the street corner nearest the
Parish Church, is a tablet reading : " In 1675, here
lived Daniel de Gresolon, Sieur Dulhut, one of the
explorers of the Upper Mississippi ; after whom the
City of Duluth was named."

Dulhut, or Du Luth, was a masterly man. In
France he was in the army as a gentleman soldier —
Gendarme of the King's Guard. In 1677, he left the
army, and coming to Canada, went among the Sioux of
the West as a rover, remaining about three years, solely
exploring.

He was then appointed commander of posts in the
West, including Detroit, until recalled to Montreal in
1688. Some say he then built the first fortifications of
Montreal — of palisades. Next year, during the panic
which followed the Iroquois invasion of Montreal, he,
with 28 Canadians, attacked 22 Iroquois in canoes,
on the Lake of Two Mountains, received their fire
without returning it, bore down upon them, killed 18 of
them and captured 3. He died about 1710.

La Mo the Cadillac.

Tablet on Notre Dame Street, just east of St. Lambert
Hill : " In 1694, here stood the house of La Mothe
Cadillac, the founder of Detroit."

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 119

Cadillac was an able man, but bore a bad reputation.
He commanded at Detroit, and is generally called its
founder ; but a fort was built near the present city
before his time. His wife superintended his warehouse
here, and sold his merchandise as it came from the

West.

UAillebotit de Coulonge.

The tablet sufficiently explains this name : " Chevalier
Louis d'Ailleboust de Coulonge, one of the chief
defenders of Ville-Marie, of which he was Governor,
1645-1647. Fourth Governor of New France, 1648-
1651. Died 31 May, 1660." (Place of erection not yet
decided, but to be somewhere near the Custom House.)

His arrival with a small force of soldiers, and his
personal courage, were a great assistance to Maisonneuve.

Charles LeMoyne — Iberville — Bienville.

For J. G. Mackenzie & Co.'s store, St. Paul Street,
just east of Custom House Square, are proposed three
tablets. The first is : " Here was the residence of Charles
LeMoyne, one of the companions of Maisonneuve.
Among his children, Charles, first Baron of Longueuil ;
Jacques, Sieur de Ste. Helene ; Pierre, Sieur d'Iberville ;
Paul, Sieur de Maricour ; Francois, Sieur de Bienville I. ;
Joseph, Sieur de Serigny ; Francois Marie, Sieur de
Sauvalle ; Jean Baptiste, Sieur de Bienville II. ; Gabriel,
Sieur d'Assigny ; Antoine, Sieur de Chateauguay ; ren-
dered the colony illustrious."

Charles LeMoyne, subject of this rather long inscrip-
tion, right-hand man of de Maisonneuve, and father of
sons celebrated in the annals of New France, was the

I2O MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

son of an innkeeper of Dieppe, but withal a most fearless
and intelligent man. He came from France a youth
only fifteen, was sent among the Indians forthwith to be
an interpreter, and caught the spirit of warlike forest
life. He several times saved Ville-Marie from Indian
attacks, at one time just saving the Hotel Dieu. At
another he walked coolly down to a war-party of
Iroquois and marched them up to the fort at the
point of his pistols. Point St. Charles is named from
him, his farm having extended thither along the shore.
About fourteen years after Ville-Marie was founded, he
was given the seigniory of Longueuil opposite, which he
proceeded to settle, fortify and develop in an able
manner. Through this source, with the fur trade and
the furnishing of public supplies, he amassed compara-
tive wealth. His cousin and partner, LeBer, became
the richest merchant of the country.

LeMoyne's eldest son became Baron of Longueuil,
having built there, in 1699, a fine feudal castle, which
existed till the end of last century.

The tablets to D'Iberville and Bienville need no
comment. They are as follows : " Here was born, in
1661, Pierre LeMoyne, Sieur d'Iberville, Chevalier de St.
Louis. He conquered Hudson's Bay for France, 1697 ;
discovered the mouths of the Mississippi, 1699. First
Governor of Louisiana, 1700. Died at Havana, 1706."

"Jean Baptiste LeMoyne, Sieur de Bienville ; born in
1680. In company with his brother, d'Iberville, he
discovered the mouths of the Mississippi, 2 March,
1699 ; founded New Orleans in 1717 ; and was Governor
of Louisiana for forty years. Died at Paris, 1768."

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 121

The First Schoolmaster.

On the corner of Notre Dame and St. Sulpice Streets :
" Here M. de LaPrairie opened the first private school
in Montreal, 1683." This is the same property which
Du Luth at one time leased and occupied.

The De Catalogue House.

In a neighbourhood of old houses, on St. Vincent
Street, adjoining Rickett's Saloon, is a long dwelling of
two stories and attic, well-preserved and strong. This
was the home built for himself by the Engineer of the
first Lachine Canal, and the one first concerned in the
plans of the earliest stone fortification walls.

On the 3<Dth of October, 1700, Dollier de Casson, for
the Seminary, passed an agreement with de Catalogne,
therein described as " officer in the Marines and Royal
Surveyor," whereby the latter was to excavate a canal
from the Grand or St. Lawrence River to the River St.
Pierre. The cut was to be twelve French feet wide and
nine deep, the length some 800 yards, the price 3,000
livres (francs), and the time of completion June, 1 701.
It was the first canal contract in Canada. The canal
was begun, but never completed, the amount of rock to
be excavated constituting the final difficulty. As far as
de Catalogne is concerned, he claimed the death of de
Casson, which happened in October, 1701, to have been
the cause, and that his death cost the former 3,000 ecus.
The tablet inscription reads: " 1693. House of Gedeon
de Catalogne, engineer, officer and chronicler. Projector
of the earliest Lachine Canal."

122 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

The house stands a kind of monument of the skill
of its owner and builder. The notes of contemporary
fighting and events written by him are clear-headed,
frank and just. He served on several expeditions, and
was in some severe fighting, notably the Battle of
Laprairie. The cut made for his canal at Lachine can
yet be seen near the head of the present canal.

The Tomb of Kondiaronk (The Rat.)

On the 3rd of August, 1701, this wily, able Huron
chief, a noted figure in the early savage days, was buried
in the Old Parish Church. It consequently seems to
follow that his remains still lie under Notre Dame
Street, in front of the Parish Church. He was a friend
of the French, but prevented them, by a singular network
of adroit perfidy, from making peace with his enemies,
the Iroquois. Murdering some of the latter just when a
peace treaty was being proposed, he led their tribes to
believe it the work of the French, at the same time
similarly misreporting the Iroquois to the colonists.
He died just following a harangue to the allied tribes
assembled at Montreal. On his tomb were inscribed
the words : " Here lies Le Rat, the Huron Chief."

Vaudreuil — Montcalm — Lfois.

On Jacques Cartier Square, where St. Paul Street
crosses it, stood the great mansion and gardens of the
Marquis de Vaudreuil, last French Governor of Canada,
as the tablet mentioned in describing the square records.
It was erected on the site of the large house built and
occupied by Du Luth in his latter days. The Marquis,

MONTKEAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 123

son of the first Governor-General of the same name and
title, was born a Canadian, a fact which led Montcalm
and Levis, the successive commanders-in-chief of the
French army, to underrate him ; but he, as a man of local
knowledge and calm judgment, was their superior. The
place has memories of them also, since, as his official
guests, they resided here for considerable periods. The
death of Montcalm at the loss of Quebec gives an
undying tragic interest to any spot connected with him.
Fancy pictures upon this square the chateau and great
garden of those days, the silken Louis XIV. costumes
of the beaux and dames, the powdered wigs, the
high Pompadour head-dresses, the hurrying lackeys, the
French guard of honour in their spotless blue and white
uniform, and, centre of all observation, the melancholy
and stately but courteous young hero, Louis Joseph,
Marquis de Montcalm-Gozon, the hope of all hearts
except his own.

On St. Helen's Island, a tablet is placed which
concerns Levis more particularly. It relates his with-
drawal to that position and his burning his flags by
night. A tradition states that he signed the capitulation
of the city against a tree near the head of the Island.

La Verandrye.

Pierre Gauthier de Varennes, Sieur de la Verandrye,
whose father was the struggling seigneur of a forest
seigniory just below Longueuil, was the discoverer of
the Rocky Mountains (1742), and was the first trader to
explore the North- West proper. First he entered the
French Army in the campaigns in Flanders, where he

124 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

had a brother an officer. At the Battle of Malplaquet,
he distinguished himself by such bravery, that, after
being left for dead upon the field, covered with sabre-
cuts, he was made a lieutenant. He returned to Canada,
and soon conceived the project of pushing through to
the Pacific across the continent. This he followed out
for many years (1731-48), with scant support, establish-
ing post after post, at Rainy Lake, Lake of the Woods,
Lake Winnipeg, and on the Saskatchewan itself, and
losing his son by Indian murder in the West. He gave
a great region to France, and, through her, to Canada,
but was never properly requited, though the Marquis
de la Jonquiere made him in the end captain of his
guard at Quebec. He died in 1749.

Palace of the Intendant.

This stood upon the same site afterwards occupied by
the house of Sir John Johnson, where the west half of
the Bonsecours Market is. It was originally the mansion
of the Barons of Longueuil, erected in 1698, and was
removed in 1793. The Intendant was the chief officer
in the colony in its civil administration, as the governor
was in its military. Hence rivalry and sometimes con-
flicts of jurisdiction between these offices. This palace
was the headquarters in Montreal of the infamous
Intendant Bigot, who, by his profligacy and regime of
dishonest extravagance, ruined the resources of the
colony and hastened its fall. A good picture of the
characters of his circle is given by William Kirby in his
novel, " The Chien d'Or," published by John Lovell &
Son, Montreal.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 12$

La Friponne.

This old stone building, yet standing, on the corner
of Friponne Street, near Dalhousie Square, was the
French Government warehouse, in which many of the
frauds of Intendant Bigot and his comrades, upon both
the government and the people, were carried on. The
principal warehouse was at Quebec, and also was known
by the name of the Friponne, which means the Swindle.

Prh-de- Ville.

This house, a wing of the present Christian Brothers'
School, Cote Street, cannot be well seen without enter-
ing the grounds. It has been greatly altered and raised,
and part of it at one time burnt ; but a bastioned wing
still stands out on a quaint boulder foundation in a
manner which makes it one of the most interesting-
looking of our buildings. It was the house of LeMoyne
de Maricour, one of the family of brothers celebrated in
the early military enterprises of the colony, and including
Bienville, Iberville and the first Baron of Longueuil.

The De Beaujeu House.

This is on St. Antoine Street, corner of St. Margaret,
and is to bear the following inscription in French :
" Here lived the family of Daniel Hyacinthe Marie
Lienard de Beaujeu, the Hero of the Monongahela ; at
which battle Washington was an officer in the army
defeated."

The Battle of the Monongahela River in Ohio was
the occasion of the slaughter of a fine army of three
thousand men through the incredible vanity of General

126 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

Braddock, an officer who had earned a European
reputation for courage, but who, despising the advice of
the provincial officers, insisted on his men fighting in the
forest with the same columns and tactics as on the open
field. The result was lamentable, and to the great
surprise of the French commander, he was enabled to
rout the large and finely equipped force. They were
saved by the provincials, who took to their forest
methods, and at length, under Washington, patched up
a truce, and thus rescued the remnants of the English
regiments of the expedition. De Beaujeu died of his
wounds shortly after.

The British Conquest ', ij6o. — Amherst, Murray,
Haviland.

This imposing event, when the vast Empire of France
in America passed away, identified with Montreal a
number of distinguished men. A world-wide lustre
rested upon the brilliant circle of "the Heroes of
Quebec," many of whom remained for longer or shorter
periods. Such were Generals Murray, Gage, Burton,
Carleton and " Lord Amherst of Montreal."

After the battle of the Plains of Abraham, where
Wolfe and Montcalm fell and Quebec was lost, it
became evident that the province could not hold out
much longer. General Levis retired with the French
army up the river towards Montreal, returning once
only to make an attempt on Quebec. The British the
next summer completed arrangements for marching
upon him from three directions — one, down the St.
Lawrence from Oswego, under Sir JefTery Amherst, with

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. I2/

10,000 men ; a second under Colonel Haviland, with
3,400, by way of Lake Champlain ; and the third under
General Murray, with 3,780, up the river from Quebec.
The three armies were to converge towards Montreal.
So efficiently was all planned and carried out, that they
arrived from their respective directions within a very
few hours of each other. Amherst came first, passing
all the rapids safely, and reaching Lachine on the 6th
of September, whence he pushed on quickly, and that
night " occupied the heights " by taking possession of
Cdte des Neiges Hill, looking towards the city. The
position of his camp-ground is remembered traditionally,
and is marked by an inscription on the front walls of
the College de Montreal Grounds, Sherbrooke Street
West, in these words : " This tablet is erected to com-
memorate the encampment, near this spot, of the British
Army under Major-General Sir Jeffery Amherst, and
the closing event in the conquest of Cape Breton and
Canada by the surrender of Montreal, and with it La
Nouvelle France, 8 September, 1760."

On the hill above may be seen from the high road the
ruins of a stone cottage, situated in a market-garden.
According to tradition, Amherst had made this his
headquarters, and one of the tablets marks it thus :
" Tradition asserts that the Capitulation of Montreal
and Canada was signed here, 1760."

Next morning, Murray landed below the city, and
marching up, encamped in line with Amherst, further
east on the Sherbrooke Street terrace, about where, at
the corner of Park Avenue, a tablet is placed, reading :
" Major-General James Murray, Brigade Commander

128 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.
•

under Wolfe at Quebec, 1759, and afterwards first
British Governor of Canada, encamped on this plateau
with the second division of Amherst's army, upon the
surrender of Montreal and all Canada, 8 September,
1760."

Haviland meanwhile appeared simultaneously across
the river at Longueuil.

The defences of the town were that useless mound
called the Citadel, and the somewhat imposing-looking,
but thin and weak, stone walls, useful in their time
against Indians, but not for an hour against cannon.
The Canadians were discouraged ; the army reduced by
desertion to about 4,000 dispirited regulars. There was,
therefore, no alternative but to surrender, and Governor
Vaudreuil drew up, in fifty-five articles of capitulation,
the best terms he could. Nearly all were accepted by
Amherst, but he emphatically refused the troops their
arms and the honours of war. " The whole garrison,"
he declared, " must lay down their arms." The French
found this hard, and remonstrated. Amherst answered
that it was to mark his abhorrence of the barbarities
permitted by them to their savage allies during the
preceding events of the war — alluding, clearly, to the
massacre of prisoners at Fort William Henry under the
very eyes of Levis some years before. The morning of
the 8th of September, Vaudreuil signed the capitulation.
It was then that Levis secretly burnt his flags on St.
Helen's Island to avoid surrendering them. He, how-
ever, gave his word of honour to Amherst that they had
been previously lost. The character of Vaudreuil con-
trasts favourably with that of Levis in the whole of these

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 1 29

transactions. A tradition asserts that the keys of the
city were given over by a woman.

On the evening of the 8th, a British force, commanded
by Colonel Haldimand, afterwards Governor, entered
the Recollet Gate by arrangement, and took possession
of the Recollet Quarter, which was then largely open
space, chiefly covered by the gardens of the monastery.
The French withdrew to their camp by the citadel at the
other end of the town. On the Qth, the Journal of Levis
records : " They (the British) sent a detachment upon
the Place d'Armes with artillery, whither our battalions
marched to lay down their arms, one after the other,
and return to the camp they occupied on the rampart.
M. le Chevalier de Levis then reviewed them. The
enemy took possession of the posts and all the watches
of the city."

A few days later, what was left of the troops of
France embarked, with their chiefs, on the way home.

Gage.

Among the other interesting men whom the invasion
brought to Montreal, was the one to whom the tablet on
the Dalhousie Square Fire Station, next the old military
headquarters, is erected, with the words : " To Brigadier-
General Thomas Gage, second in command under
Amherst; first British Governor of Montreal, 1760; after-
wards last British Governor of Massachusetts. 1775."

He it was who kept New York City a British strong-
hold all through the Revolution.

130 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

Sir William Johnson.

A tablet relating to another well-known man in
colonial history stands upon the Bonsecours Market,
where was the residence of his son. It reads : " Sir
William Johnson, of Johnson Hall on the Mohawk
River, the celebrated Superintendent of Indian Affairs,
and first American Baronet, commanded the Indian
allies with Amherst's army in 1760. To them was
issued, in commemoration, the first British Montreal
medal. Here stood the house of his son, Sir John
Johnson, Indian Commissioner."

Burton.

The house where this Hero of Quebec long resided
stood on St. Paul Street, opposite the Bonsecours Mar-
ket. His daughter married General Christie (the second
Commander-in-chief of the Forces in Canada of that
name), who added the name of Burton to his own. A
fine portrait of Burton is in the Art Gallery. The
inscription for the site of his residence is : " Site of the
house of General Ralph Burton, second Governor of
Montreal, 1763. He executed, on the Plains of Abra-
ham, at Wolfe's dying command, the military operation
which finally decided the day."

The reference is to Wolfe's last words : " ' Who run ? '
Wolfe demanded, like a man roused from sleep. ' The
enemy, sir. Egad they give way everywhere ! ' ' Go
one of you to Colonel Burton/ returned the dying man ;
'tell him to march Webb's regiment down to Charles
River, to cut off their retreat from the Bridge.' Then

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 131

turning on his side, he murmured : ' Now, God be
praised, I will die in peace ! ' " *

It might also have been added that Burton was dis-
tinguished for courage in the disastrous blunder of the
Monongahela.

The North-Westers.

The North-West Fur Company's stores, around which
so much history in adventure, discovery and commerce
centres, are on St. Gabriel Street, opposite the Fire
Station, near Notre Dame Street. Hither came Sir
Alexander Mackenzie and Simon Fraser (the dis-
coverer), Alexander Henry, John Jacob Astor, Wash-
ington Irving, McTavish, Franchere, the Highland laird,
the English general, the Indian brave.

The tall, peaked warehouse, neatly built of stone and
protected by iron shutters, which faces one looking
through the gateway, carries the date " 1793," sur-
rounded by four stars. The company was an association
composed of the principal Scottish and French-Canadian
merchants, who had replaced the French traders to the
West. As, by their activity, system and enterprise,
they greatly improved their business and extended its
territory, they both became wealthy local men of their
time, and also the rivals of the older Hudson's Bay
Company. The newer association was organized in
1783. "The sleepy old Hudson's Bay Company," says
one writer, " were astounded at the magnificence of the
new-comers, and old traders yet talk of the lordly Nor'-
Wester. It was in those days that Washington Irving

* Parkman's " Montcalm and Wolfe."

132 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

was their guest when he made his memorial journey to
Montreal. The agents who presided at headquarters
were veterans that had grown grey in the wilds, and
were full of all the traditions of the fur trade ; and
around them circled the laurels gained in the North."

" To behold the North- West Company in all its state
and grandeur," writes Irving himself in Astoria, " it was
necessary to witness the annual gathering at Fort
William, near what is now called the Grand Portage, on
Lake Superior. On these occasions might be seen the
change since the unceremonious times of the old French
traders, with their roystering coureurs de bois. Now the
aristocratic character of the Briton, or rather the feudal
spirit of the Highlander, shone out magnificently; every
partner who had charge of an interior post, and had a
score of retainers at his command, felt like the chieftain
of a Highland clan. To him, a visit to the grand con-
ference at Fort William was a most important event,
and he repaired thither as to a meeting of Parliament
The partners from Montreal were, however, the lords of
the ascendant. They ascended the rivers in great state,
like sovereigns making a progress. They were wrapped
in rich furs, their huge canoes freighted with every
convenience and luxury. Fort William, the scene of
this important meeting, was a considerable village on
the banks of Lake Superior. Here, in an immense
wooden building, was the great council-chamber, and
also the banqueting-hall, decorated with Indian arms
and accoutrements and the trophies of the fur trade.
The great and weighty councils were alternated with
huge feasts and revels."

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 133

Alexander Henry.

On a house near the foot of St. Urbain Street, on the
west side, are the words : " Here lived, 1760-1824,
Alexander Henry, the Traveller, Author and Fur-
Trader."

Henry was the pioneer of the English fur-trade in the
West. He had a thrilling escape from massacre during
the well-known capture of Fort Michillimackinac, by
the French Indian Pontiac, effected by means of a game
of lacrosse, in 1763. Parkman gives an account of his
escape in " The Conspiracy of Pontiac," but Henry's
own book, " Travels and Adventures in Canada and the
Indian Territories," dated from Montreal, and published
in 1809, is a well-written narrative of all his adventures.
His discoveries extended far to the North, and enabled
him to obtain from northern Indians some information
of the streams which flow into the Arctic Ocean.

Mackenzie.

On the premises of Wm. Smith, Esq., near the head of
Simpson Street, is a tablet of great interest : " Site of
the residence of Sir Alexander Mackenzie, discoverer of
the Mackenzie River, 1793, and the first European to
cross the Rocky Mountains."

For five years, from about 1779, he was in the
counting-house of Mr. Gregory, a Montreal merchant,
but then went to the North-West Company's Fort
Chippewyan on Lake Arthabasca, whence he started on
the two momentous expeditions referred to in the tablet.
In the first, he travelled a thousand miles northward

134 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

along the great river of his name, until he neared the
Arctic Ocean, In the second, he reached the Pacific.

Fraser.

The tablet to the British Columbia explorer reads :
" To Simon Fraser, Agent of the North- West Company,
discoverer of the Fraser River, 1808."

This energetic Nor'-Wester is spoken of as a man of
stern and repellant manner. He died at St. Andrews',
Glengarry, Ontario.

Brant — Tecumseh.

These chiefs were both here — the first, at a great
Indian council held by the Johnsons at Montreal, in the
summer of 1775 ; the latter, during the war of 1812. A
tablet recording his visit is being drawn for erection.

MONTREAL IN l666.

" Approaching the shore where the city of Montreal
now stands, one would have seen a row of small, com-
pact dwellings, extending along a narrow street parallel
to the river, and then, as now, called St. Paul Street.
On a hill at the right stood the windmill of the seigneurs,
built of stone and pierced with loopholes to serve, in
time of need, as a place of defence. On the left, in an
angle formed by the junction of a rivulet with the St.
Lawrence, was a bastioned fort of stone. Here lived
the military governor, appointed by the Seminary, and
commanding a few soldiers of the regiment of Carignan.
In front, on the line of the street, were the enclosures ot
the Seminary, and nearly adjoining them, those of the

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 135

Hotel Dieu or Hospital, both provided for defence in
case of an Indian attack. In the Hospital enclosure
was a small church, opening on the street, and, in the
absence of any other, serving for the whole settlement."
So writes Parkman. The account, though incorrect
in a couple of trifling particulars, is accurate as a
general picture.

THE CITY IN 1770.

The following is from Wynne's " General History of
the British Empire in America," 1770 — a title which of
itself is food for thought :

" Montreal, situated on the island of that name, the
second place in Canada for extent, buildings and
strength, besides possessing the advantages of a less
rigorous climate, for delightfulness of situation is infi-
nitely preferable to Quebec. It stands on the side of a
hill sloping down to the river, with the south country
and many gentlemen's seats thereon, together with the
island of St. Helen, all in front, which form a charming
landscape, the River St. Lawrence here being about two
miles across. Though the city is not very broad from
north to south, it covers a great length of ground from
east to west, and is nearly as large and populous as
Quebec.

" The streets are regular, forming an oblong square,
the houses well built, and in particular the public
buildings, which far exceed those of the capital in beauty
and commodiousness, the residence of the Knights
Hospitallers (?) being extremely magnificent. There
are several gardens within the walls, in which, however,
the proprietors have consulted use more than elegance,

136 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

particularly those of the Sisters of the Congregation, the
Nunnery Hospital, the Recollets, Jesuits, Seminary and
Governor. Besides these, there are many other gardens
and beautiful plantations without the gates, as the
garden of the General Hospital, and the improvements
of Mr. Liniere, which exceed all the rest, and are at an
agreeable distance on the north side of the town. The
three churches and religious houses are plain, and con-
tain no paintings nor anything remarkable or curious,
but carry the appearance of the utmost neatness and
simplicity.

" The city has six or seven 'gates, large and small, but
its fortifications are mean and inconsiderable, being
encompassed by a slight wall of masonry, fully calculated
to awe the numerous tribes of Indians, who resorted
here at all times from the most distant parts for the sake
of traffic, particularly at the fair held here every year,
which continued from the beginning of June till the
latter end of August, when many solemnities were
observed ; and the Governor assisted and guards were
placed to preserve good order in such a concourse of so
great a variety of savage nations. There are no batteries
on the walls except for flank-fires, and most of these are
binded with planks and loop-holes, made at the embra-
sures for musketry. Some writers have represented
these walls to be four feet in thickness, but they are
mistaken. They are built of stone, the parapet of the
curtains does not exceed twenty inches, and the mertins
at the flank-fires are somewhat thicker, though not near
three feet. A dry ditch surrounds this wall about seven
feet deep, encompassed with a regular glacis.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 137

" On the inside of the town is a cavalier on an arti-
ficial eminence, with a parapet of logs or squared
timbers, and six or eight old guns, called the citadel.
Such were the fortifications of Montreal, the second
place of consequence in Canada, until the enemy raised
the siege of Quebec ; and then, in expectation that the
English forces would follow them, a battery was erected,
with two faces for nine guns, but had only four twelve-
pounders mounted, two pointing to the navigation of
the river, and the others to the road leading from
Longue Pointe to the town, with a traverse for mus-
ketry, elevated on the inside of the battery, for the
defence thereof, together with some piquet works, form-
ing a barrier to the entrance of the place, with two
advanced redoubts, were all the temporary works made
for its defence.

"The inhabitants, in number about five thousand,
are gay and lively, more attached to dress and finery
than those of Quebec ; and from the number of silk
sacks, laced coats and powdered heads that are con-
stantly seen in the streets, a stranger would imagine
that Montreal was wholly inhabited by people of inde-
pendent fortunes. By the situation of the place, the
inhabitants are extremely well supplied with all kinds of
rrver fish, some of which are unknown to Europeans,
being peculiar to the lakes and rivers of this country.
They have likewise plenty of black cattle, horses, hogs
and poultry ; the neighbouring shores supply them with
a great variety of game in the different seasons, and the
island abounds with well-tasted soft springs which form
a multitude of pleasant rivulets."

138 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION IN 1775.
Mon tgomery — Franklin — A mold.

At the outbreak of the Revolution, it was natural
that attempts should be made to enlist Canada on the
side of the other colonies. The British traders seem, as
a body, to have been willing, and at first many of the
French also sympathized. General Philip Schuyler
invaded the province by Lake Champlain, but falling ill,
was replaced by the ill-fated Montgomery. Colonel
Ethan Allen was despatched against the city, but on
the 25th of October was taken prisoner, and thereafter
sent to England. Soon Montgomery appeared ; Governor
Sir Guy Carleton, having an exceedingly small force,
withdrew to Quebec, and the citizens capitulated On
the 1 3th of November, 1775, at nine o'clock in the
morning, he marched in by the Recollet Gate, and took
up his headquarters in the large house on the corner of
Notre Dame and St. Peter Streets, inhabited by a mer-
chant named Fortier. There a tablet is placed, reading :
" Forretier House. Here General Montgomery resided
during the winter of 1775-6."

The house at that time is said to have been the
largest and most magnificent in the city. The principal
rooms were wainscoted all around up to a certain height,
and, above that, tapestried richly with scenes from the
life of Louis XIV. Over the principal door is to be
seen the date " 1767," underneath a niche intended for a
statuette of a saint.

Generals Wooster and Benedict Arnold followed
Montgomery in possession, the latter proceeding to his

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 139

death in the gallant attempt to scale the defences of
Quebec. In the meantime, the Commissioners of Con-
gress, Franklin, Chase and Carroll, as already related,
came to the city and brought with them its first printer,
Fleury Mesplet. They were compelled to retire before
Carleton, their army and cause having become unpopular
with the priests and people, and reinforcements having
arrived from England.

Dorchester.

The brave character and the other services of Carleton,
afterwards raised to the peerage under the title of
Dorchester, are commemorated in the inscription at the
corner of Dorchester and Bleury Streets : " This street
was named in honour of Sir Guy Carleton, Lord
Dorchester, commander of the British forces and pre-
server of the colony during the American invasion,
1775-76; twice Governor of Canada, and by whom the
Quebec Act, 1774, was obtained."

De la Come.

Another officer who distinguished himself in the same
campaign was De la Corne, a member of a good old
French-Canadian family, the site of one of whose
dwellings, either on St. Paul Street, opposite the west
corner of Custom House Square, or on Bonsecours
Street, is to receive the following : " Here lived the
Chevalier Luc de Chapt, Sieur de la Corne and de St.
Luc. Sole survivor of the shipwreck of the Auguste,
1761. Served with distinction in both the French and
English armies. He exercised a great influence over
the Indian tribes. Died 31 March, 1817."

140 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

The reference to the Auguste is to a ship which sailed
for France with the greater part of the French noblesse
who had decided to leave the colony. It was unfor-
tunately wrecked, and all on board lost except De la
Corne. The Bonsecours dwelling has just been taken

down.

Du Calvet.

A notorious adventurer and scamp of the same period
was the Swiss Du Calvet, a man of extraordinary
plausibility and facility with voice and pen, but who has
of late years been conclusively proved to have been false
simultaneously to the British, the French-Canadians
and the Americans. His role with each was that of a
wronged patriot. His house stands on St. Paul Street,
near the Bonsecours Market. A tablet is being erected
here, independently of the Antiquarian Society, by Mr.
L. J. A. Papineau.

OTHER OLD HOUSES.

Other old houses of interest are the Papineau House,
on St. Paul Street, near the Bonsecours ; the Marquis
de Lotbiniere House (1797), on St. Sacrament Street,
opposite the Montreal Telegraph Company's office ; the
Sir John Johnson House, in the East End ; the
McCord House, in Griffintown.

Louis Joseph Papineau was the eloquent leader of the
French-Canadians at the period of their rebellion of
• 1837-8: Chartier De Lotbiniere was a king's engineer
under Montcalm ; Hon. John McCord was the leader of
the mercantile British party who inclined towards the
American Revolution.

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 14!

On the Papineau House the legend is : " The Papineau
House. Six of their generations have dwelt here."

The De Lotbiniere mansion is tableted as follows :
" Residence of the Marquis de Chartier de Lotbiniere,
Engineer-in-Chief of New France, 1755. He fortified
Ticonderoga and Isle-aux-Noix. On his advice, Mont-
calm attacked Fort William Henry in 1757, and awaited
the English at Ticonderoga in 1758."

An exquisite little specimen of the rich merchant's
residence of an earlier period is the house on St. Jean
Baptiste Street, occupied by the St. George's Spice
Mills. It was probably built about 1680, by a trader
named Hubert dit Lacroix. The handsome parlours
and their carved-wood mantelpieces, the lofty ware-
house room adjoining, the quaint hall and stairway, the
curious, elaborated fireplace in the basement, and the
high walls of the court-yard, are well worthy of notice
by any permitted to see them. A tradition represents
the house to have been the residence of one of the
Intendants, but the assertion is disputed.

The oldest building in Montreal is possibly one
owned by Mr. James Coristirie, and situated at the rear
of his fur establishment on St. Paul Street, just west of
St. Nicholas.

It is claimed to have been built in 1666, and the vault-
ing is to-day perfect and solid and the walls very thick.
The dwelling doubtless consisted of a low living-story,
above the vaults, and was reached by stone steps in a
square tower behind. Though much altered, the build-
ing retains traces of its early shape above.

Another quaint erection stands next door, with gable

142 MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS.

on St. Nicholas Street. On its yard face a small image-
niche and window give a picturesque appearance.

The McTavish Haunted House.

This grim tradition has probably been hitherto the
Montreal story most circulated among the English-
speaking population. In 1805, Simon McTavish, the
principal founder of the North-West Company, built a
great house on the side of Mount Royal, upon the
present property of Mr. Andrew Allan. He died before
it was quite finished, and as it was left deserted, in a
lonely situation, tradition had it that he had hanged
himself in it. Dreadful sounds, particularly a horrible
gurgling as if breath, were thereafter heard within by
those who passed. On the tin roof, in the light of the
moon, spirits were seen dancing. Few persons would
approach, far less anybody inhabit it, and the mansion
gradually fell more and more into decay and disfavour.

A form of the legend was that the proud North-
Wester built the house preparatory to the coming of his
family from Scotland ; that his wife, a high-spirited
woman, objected to coming out to a rude new country,
but the husband hoped to surprise her upon her arrival
by the presentation of a beautiful and well-appointed
home ; that one night, as the house was near its com-
pletion, some mysterious impulse moved him to visit it
(for he lodged meanwhile at a farmhouse in the neigh-
bourhood), when, just as he entered the basement and
looked up, he saw in the moonlight her inanimate form
dangling from the roof-tree. Though he knew she was
in Britain, the apparition was so realistic and striking,

MONTREAL AFTER 250 YEARS. 143

that all work upon the house was suspended ; and, sadly
enough, when the ship which had been expected arrived,
it brought news of her suicide by hanging in the garret
of her old home, at the very hour when he had seen
the apparition. He became a cynic, wasted and died,
while the house, finding no purchaser, remained a sad
and forbidding relic. It was of stone, and had a circular
wing at each side. In the park, near the upper reservoir,
a stone pillar covers McTavish's remains.

Amtry Girod.

Few know that under the cross-road made by Guy
and Sherbrooke Streets sleeps a suicide. Yet it is true
that Amery Girod, a Swiss, who took part as a leader
in the rebellion of 1837, was buried there in pursuance
of the old custom of interring a suicide under cross-
roads. On the collapse of the rebellion, he had been
hidden at a house in the country, and hoped to escape.
The troops, however, found him, and were surrounding
the house. He ran out and attempted to get away by
creeping along a stone wall, but was shot — in the leg, I
think — while doing so. He then killed himself with his
sword, to avoid being hung. They buried him as just
stated.

THE TRAFALGAR LEGEND.

This story, of a lonely hermit of the Mountain, who,
through madness of jealousy, had slain both his lady
and her lover, is too long to tell here. He haunts a
certain old garden-tower in the grounds of " Trafalgar,"
a residence on the Cote des Neiges Road, immediately

144 MONTREAL AFTER 2 50 YEARS.

above the Seminary wall, where his mysterious footfalls
have been heard quite lately. The reader is referred to
Canadiana, March, 1890, for the full tale.

LA PLACE ROYALE.

Since the writing of the description of Custom House
Square, its name has been changed to " La Place
Royale," on petition of the Antiquarian Society, in order
to mark the 25oth anniversary of the foundation of the
city by re-conferring on the locality the name given by
Champlain. The writer and two other members of the
Society, on the morning of the i8th of May, 1892,
baptised the Square with St. Lawrence water, after
removing the old signs and confiscating them as trophies.
Mr. John S. Shearer stood godfather, the Secretary
(Frank Langelier) poured out the water from a glass
goblet, and I did my part by pronouncing the words.

THE HOTEL DIEU PICTURE.

The legend of Ethan Allen's daughter and the paint-
ing of St. Joseph, narrated in connection with the Grey
Nunnery, should have been attributed to the Hotel
Dieu. It is in the entrance to the cloister chapel of the
latter, and is a large painting of the Holy family in an
antique gold frame. It was once the altar-piece of the
old Hotel Dieu Church on St. Paul Street, now removed.

INDEX.

Aboriginal Traditions, 2
Algonquins, 2, 3
Agouhanna, 7, 1 06
American Occupation, 138
Amherst, Sir Jefifery, 34, 52, 91,

126

Arnold, Benedict, 54
Allen, Fanny, 81, 144
Anahotaha, no; Death of, 113

Bell, the Great, of Notre Dame (Le

Gros Bourdon), 12, 28
Bullion, Duchesse de, 22, 79
Bonsecours Church, 28, 67
Bank of Montreal, 32
Bonsecours Market, 58
Bourgeoys, Marguerite, 67, 93
Burton, 130

Champlain, Samuel de, 3, 8, 21,

23, 50, 104
Commerce, II, 12
Cadillac, 12, 118
Custom House, 21
Compagnie de Notre Dame de

Montreal, 105
Compagnie des Indes, 37
Churches, 33, 60
Callieres, 24, 25, 35
Closse, Lambert, 26, 109
Carmelites. 95
Citadel Hill, 36, 39
Charlevoix, Pere, 36
Canadian Pacific Railway, 12
Canadian Pacific Rail'y Bridge, 15
Chateau de Ramezay, 37, 53
Chateau de Vaudreuil, 38
Cemeteries, 51
Capitulation Cottage, 52
City Hall, 53
Court House, 55
Christ Church Cathedral, 62
Catalogne, 121

Canal, First, 121, 122
Conquest, 126
Clubs, 97, 100

Detroit, Founder of, 12

Du Luth (Du Lhut), 12, 118

Dauversiere, Le Royer de la, 22

79, 104

Dollier de Casson, 30
Dollard (Daulac), in
D'Ailleboust, 119
De Beaujeu, 125
Demons, 103
Dorchester, 139
De la Come, 139
Du Calvet, 140

Earthquake, the Great, 114

Fraser, Simon, 12, 134
Fortifications, 34, 136
Franklin, Benjamin, 54
Fort de la Montagne, 89

Gates of the City, 34, 39, 115, 136

Grand Trunk Railway, 12

Grey Nuns, 80

Gage., 129

Girod, Amery, 143

Hospitals, 76, 77
Hochelaga, 2, 5, 6, 7, 8
Hurons, 2, 3, 5
Henry, Alex., J2, 133
Harbour, 13, 15
Heavysege, Grave of, 52
Hotel Dieu, 78
Hunt Club, 99
Houses, Old, 140

Iroquois, 2 ; Four Burnt, 117
Iroquet, 3

148

INDEX.

Iberville, 120

Irving, Washington, 131

Jacques Cartier, 2, 7, 8, 37, 48,

105

Jacques Cartier visits Hochelaga, 5
Jesuits, 36, 69
Johnson, Sir Wm. and Sir John, 130

Kondiaronk, 122

Lalemant, Pere, 3

La Salle, 12, 117; Dwelling, 117

La Mothe Cadillac, 12, 118

Lachine Canal, 14

Laprairie, Battle of, 1 6

Longueuil Castle, 16, 122

Le Ber, Jeanne, 94

Le Moyne, 119

Longueuil, Baron de, 120

La Prairie, M. de, 121

La Verandrye, 123

La Friponne, 125

Legend of Devil and Wind, 29

Legend of St. Pere's Head, 109

Legend of the Red Cross, 20, 82

Legend of P. Le Maistre's Hand-
kerchief, 1 08

Little River, 20

Legend of Hotel Dieu Picture, 82

Le Maistre, Pere, 108

Levis, 129

MONTREAL —
Site of, 2

Aboriginal Name, 103
Leading Characteristics, 1 1
A Seaport, 12
History of, 13
Population, 13, 17
Foundation of, 21, 107
Earliest Church, 28
In 1666. 134; in 1770, 135

Maisonneuve, Paul de Chomedy de,
23, 25, 31,48, 67, 107, 119

Maisonneuve Statue, 25

Montreal Amateur Athletic Asso-
ciation, 97

McTavish Haunted House, 142

Montgomery, Headquarters of, 138

Mount Royal, 3, 6, 7, 9, 44
Mance, Jeanne, 22, 23, 79
Monks, 94

McGill University, 8, 13, 84
Mackenzie, Sir Alex., 12, 133
Molson, Hon. John, 14
Manor House, the First, 25
McGill, Hon. Jas., 37, 85
Montcalm, 38, 39, 123
Monklands, 194

Nuns of the Congregation, 93
Notre Dame de Montreal Church,

12, 26

New Orleans, Founder of, 12, 120
North- West Company, 33, 131
Nelson's Column, 37
North- Westers, 48, 131
Ndtie Dame de Victoire, 68
N6tre Dame de Lourdes, 72

Ononchataronons, 3

Olier, Abbe Jean Jacques, 21, 104

Old St. Gabriel Church, 64

Post Office, 33, 55

Parks, 44

Palace of the Intendants, 124

Population, 13

Pilote, 24, 26

Pillory, 37

Public Buildings, 53

Printer, the First, 54

Pres-de-Ville, 125

Recollets Church, 28, 72
Rocky Mountains, Discoverer of,
123

Seminary of St. Sulpice, 12, 25,

29, 30

Shipping, 13
Steam Navigation, 13
Schools, 89
Societies, 95
SQUARES, 8, 9, 21, 23—

Custom House (La Place Royale),
2C, 144

Victoria, 33

INDEX.

149

La Place d'Armes, 25, 129

Viger, 35

Champ de Mars, 35

Jacques Cartier, 36

Place des Jesuites, 36, 115

Dalhousie, 39

Dominion, 40

St. Louis, 43

Phillips, 44

St. Helen's Island, IO, 50
St. Lawrence River, II, 16
St. Peter's Cathedral, 41
St. George's Church, 43
Synagogue, the First, 75
Streets, Naming of the, 115
Sports, 97
Skating Rink, Victoria, 99

Trafalgar Legend, 143

Towers, the Old, 90

Trappists, 94

Theatres, 97, 99

Tutonaguy, 106

TABLETS, HISTORICAL —
Hochelaga, 8
Molson, 14

First Public Square, 2O
La Place Royale, 23
Founding of Montreal, 23
Fort of Ville-Marie, 24
Callieres, 25

Manor House, the First, 25
First Parish Church, 28
Old Parish Church, 28
Seminary, 30

Notre Dame de Victoire, 68
Recollets Church, 72
Dollier de Casson, 30
Place d'Armes Battle, 31
Second Grant of Land, 32
Fortifications, 33
Beaver Hall, 33
Recollets Gate, 34
Charlevoix, 36
Place des Jesuites, 36
Jacques Cartier, 37
His Landing- Place, 105
McGill's Residence, 37
Chateau de Vaudreuil, 39

La Citadelle, 39

Chateau de Ramezay, 54

Old Christ Church, 63

Hotel Dieu, 80

Mance, 80

The Towers, 91

Amherst's Camp, 91

Congregational Nunnery, 94

La Salle, 117

Du Lhut (Du Luth), 118

La Mothe Cadillac, 118

D'Ailleboust, 119

Le Moyne, 119

Iberville, 120

Bienville, 120

Schoolmaster, First, 1 21

De Catalogne, 121

Levis, 123

De Beaujeu, 125

Amherst's Camp, 127

Capitulation Cottage, 127

Murray, 127

Closse, no

Trudeau, no

Dollard, ill

Johnson, 130

Burton, 130

Gage, 129

Henry, 133

Mackenzie, 133

Fraser, 134

Tecumseh, 134

Montgomery's Headquarters, 138

Dorchester, 139

De la Come, 139

Papineau House, 141

De Lotbiniere House, 141

McCord House, 141

Universities, 84'

Vaudreuil, 122, 128
Ville-Marie, 94
Victoria Bridge, 14
Vimont, Pere, 23, 103

Windsor Hotel and Hall, 42
Wolfe, Last Order of, 130
Y.M.C.A., 41

PRINCIPAL AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

Parkman, Sandham, " Relations des Je^suites," De Belmont, Faillon,
Lovell's Hist. Census for 1891, S. E. Dawson, The Canadian Antiquarian,
Hochelaga Depicta, Mercer Adam's "The North- West," Dollier de Casson,
Vie de Mile. Mance, Vie de M. Olier, Canadiana, P. S. Murphy, Judge
Baby, Gerald E. Hart, the late Roswell C. Lyman, B. Suite, R. W.
McLachlan, J. P. Edwards, De Lery Macdonald, M. Bihaud, Garneau,
Cham plain, Jacques Carder's " Voyages," Levis' "Journal and Lettres,"
Jodoin and Vincent, Brymner, Morgan, Kingsford, Tanguay, Beaugrand
and Morin, and others.

Mr. Wm. McLennan contributed assistance of a unique sort — results of
a systematic sifting made, for the first time, of the old notarial and other
earliest archives of the city. To him are due the identification of the De
Catalogne, LeMoyne, Du Luth, Laprairie, La Salle and Cadillac houses.
His service to the public in thus contributing these facts should not be
underestimated.

The writer desires to add that this little book being put together in
haste, he is conscious it must contain inaccuracies and imperfections. In
particular the Maisonneuve statue and some of the historical tablets quoted
are only in process of erection, and may be slightly altered before their
completion. Hasty and faulty as it is, however, it will, in helping to
popularize a good deal of rare information, fill for the present a place
which remains yet to be perfectly filled.

To some, it may appear singular than an advocate in active practice
should put together a book of the kind. The author was induced to do so
by the view that the historical tablets, which are a pet scheme of his,
could only be rendered effective by an explanatory handbook such as the
present ; and when, therefore, the publishers proposed the matter, he
accepted.

iftl

University of Toronto
Library

DO NOT

REMOVE

THE

CARD

FROM

THIS

POCKET

Acme Library Card Pocket

Under Pat. "Ref. Index File-
Made by LIBRARY BUREAU