MORE LEAVES.
MORE
LEAVES FROM THE JOURNAL
OK
A LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS
FROM 1862 TO 1882.
NEW EDITION.
LONDON :
SMITH, ELDER, & CO., 15 WATERLOO PLACE.
1885.
[All rights reserved.]
PREFACE.
THE little volume "Our Life in the Highlands,"
published fifteen years ago, with its simple records
of the never-to-be-forgotten days spent with him
" who made the writer's life bright and happy," was
received with a warmth of sympathy and interest
which was very gratifying to her heart. The kind
editor of that volume is no longer here to advise
and help her, though friendly assistance has not
been wanting on the present occasion. But remem-
bering the feeling with which that little book
was received, the writer thinks that the present
volume may equally evoke sympathy, as, while
describing a very altered life, it shows how her
sad and suffering heart was soothed and cheered
by the excursions and incidents it recounts, as
well as by the simple mountaineers, from whom
she learnt many a lesson of resignation and faith,
in the pure air and quiet of the beautiful High-
lands.
The writer wishes at the same time to express
her gratitude to those who are mentioned through-
out this volume for the devotion and kindness
which contributed so much to her enjoyment of
the varied scenes and objects of interest of which
these pages contain the unpretending record.
OSBORNE :
December 22, 1883.
TO
MY LOYAL HIGHLANDERS
AXL) ESPECIALLY
TO THE MEMORY OF
MY DEVOTED PERSONAL ATTENDANT
AND FAITHFUL FRIEND
JOHN BROWN
THESE RECORDS OF MY WIDOWED LIFE IN SCOTLAND
ARE
GRATEFULLY DEDICATED
VICTORIA R. L
CONTENTS.
Building of the Prince's Cairn 21 Aug. 1862 I
Visit to the Old Cairn on the Prince's Birth-
: day 26 Aug. 1862 3
First Visit to the Prince's Cairn after its
Completion 19 May 1863 4
Visit to Blair 15 Sept. 1863 5
Carriage Accident 7 Oct. 1863 8
Unveiling of the Prince's Statue at Aber-
: deen 13 Oct. 1863 12
Expedition to Invermark 19 Sept. 1865 19
First Visit to Dunkeld 9 Oct. 1865 23
Second Visit to Dunkeld I Oct. 1866 33
Opening of the Aberdeen Waterworks 16 Oct. 1866 46
Halloween 31 Oct. 1866-7... 48
Visit to Floors and the Scotch Border Country 20 Aug. 1867 50
Visit to Glenfiddich 24 Sept. 1867 61
Unveiling of the Prince's Statue at Balmoral 15 Oct. 1867 70
A House-warming at the Glassalt Shiel I Oct. 1868 72
"Juicing the Sheep" 21 Oct. 1868 75
A Highland " Kirstnin" (Christening) 24 Oct. 1868 77
A Second Christening I Nov. 1868 79
Widow Grant 22 Aug. 1869 So
Visit to Invertrossachs I Sept. 1869 81
Sheep Clipping 13 June 1870 103
Betrothal of Princess Louise to the Marquis
of Lome 3 Oct. 1870....
Communion Sunday at Crathie 13 Nov. 1871....
The "Spate" n June 1872....
Visit to Holyrood and Edinburgh 13 Aug. 1872....
Visit to Dunrobin 6 Sept. 1872....
Dr. Norman Macleod March 1873....
Visit to Inverlochy 9 Sept. 1873....
Home-coming of their Royal Highnesses the
Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh 29 Aug. 1874...,
Departure of the Prince of Wales from
Abergeldie before leaving for India ...... 17 Sept. 1875....
Visit to Inveraray 21 Sept. 1875....
Highland Funeral 21 Oct. 1875....
Unveiling of the Statue of the Prince Con-
sort at Edinburgh 17 Aug. 1876....
Presentation of Colours to " The Royal
Scots" 26 Sept. 1876....
Expedition to Loch Maree 12 Sept. 1877...,
Visit to Broxmouth 23 Aug. 1878...,
Death of Sir Thomas Biddulph at Abergeldie
Mains 28 Sept. 1878...,
Memorial Cross to the Princess Alice, Grand
Duchess of Hesse 22 May 1879....
Death of the Prince Imperial 19 June 1879....
Home-coming of their Royal Highnesses the
Duke and Duchess of Connaught 5 Sept. 1879...,
His Royal Highness the Duke of Con-
naught's Cairn 8 Sept. 1879...,
Visit to the Glen Gelder Shiel 6 Oct. 1879...,
Victory of Tel-el-Kebir and Home-coming
of their Royal Highnesses the Duke and
Duchess of Albany II Sept. 1882....
Conclusion
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Portrait of Her Majesty the Queen To face Title
Mr. John Grant page 3
,, II. R.H. the Princess Helena 19
,, Mr. John Brown 24
,, H. R.H. the Princess Louise 33
,, General Grey 47
,, Lady Churchill 61
Sharp, the Queen's Collie 67
View of the Glassalt Shiel 72
Portrait of H.R.H. the Princess Beatrice 113
Noble, the Queen's Collie 163
Memorial Cross to H.R.H. the Princess Alice 255
View of Glen Gekler Shiel .. .. 266
CALEDONIA ! thou land of the mountain and rock,
Of the ocean, the mist, and the wind
Thou land of the torrent, the pine, and the oak,
Of the roebuck, the hart, and the hind !
Thou land of the valley, the moor, and the hill,
Of the storm and the proud-rolling wave
Yes, thou art the land of fair liberty still
And the land of my forefathers' grave !
THE ETTRICK SHEPHERD.
A nation famed for song and beauty's charms,
Zealous yet modest, innocent though free ;
Patient of toil, serene amidst alarms,
Inflexible in faith, invincible in arms.
BEATTIE'S Minstrel,
BUILDING OF THE PRINCE'S CAIRN.
Balmoral, Thursday, August 21, 1862.
AT eleven o'clock started off in the little pony- chair
(drawn by the Corriemulzie pony, and led by Brown),
Bertie, who had come over from Birkhall, on foot, the
two girls on ponies, and the two little boys, who joined
us later, for Craig Lowrigan; and I actually drove in the
little carriage to the very top, turning off from the path
and following the track where the carts had gone. Grant
and Duncan pushed the carriage behind. Sweet Baby
(Beatrice) we found at the top. The view was so fine,
the day so bright, and the heather so beautifully pink
but no pleasure, no joy ! all dead !
And here at the top is the foundation of the cairn
forty feet wide to be erected to my precious Albert,
which will be seen all down the valley. I and my poor
six orphans all placed stones on it ; and our initials, as
well as those of the three absent ones, are to be carved
on stones all round it. I felt very shaky and nervous.
It is to be thirty-five feet high, and the following
inscription to be placed on it:
P
TO THE BELOVED MEMORY
OF
ALBERT, THE GREAT AND GOOD
PRINCE CONSORT,
RAISED BY HIS BROKEN-HEARTED WIDOW,
VICTORIA R.
AUGUST 21, l862.
' ' He being made perfect in a short time fulfilled a long time ;
For his soul pleased the Lord,
Therefore hastened He to take him
Away from among the wicked."
Wisdom of Solomon, iv. 13, 14.
Walked down to where the rough road is, and this
first short attempt at walking in the heather shook me
and tired me much.
( 3 )
VISIT TO THE OLD CAIRN ON THE PRINCE'S
BIRTHDAY.
Balmoral, August 26, 1862.
I went out at twelve with the two girls on ponies (I
in the little carriage), Bertie on foot. We went to see
ic obelisk building to His dear memory: Bertie left us
lere, and we went on round by the village, up Craig-
rowan, in the little carriage, over the heather till we
ached near to the old cairn of 1852. Grant said: "I
lought you would like to be here to-day, on His birth-
ly!" so entirely was he of opinion that this beloved
, and even the i4th of December, must not be looked
apon as a day of mourning. " That's not the light to
:>k at it." There is so much true and strong faith in.
lese good, simple people.
Walked down by the Fog* Jfvuse, all pink with heather;
le day beautifully fine and bright.
* Scotch for " Moss."
Ji 2
( 4 )
FIRST VISIT TO THE PRINCE'S CAIRN AFTER
ITS COMPLETION.
Balmoral, Tuesday, May 19, 1863.
I went out in the little carriage (Donald Stewart
leading the pony, as John Brown was unwell) with
Lenchen and Dr. Robertson (Grant following), and drove
up to the cairn on the top of Craig Lowrigan, which is a
fine sharp pyramid admirably constructed out of granite
without any mortar. The inscription is very well en-
graved and placed. There is a good path made up to
the top of the hill
( 5 )
VISIT TO BLAIR, 1863.
Balmoral^ Tuesday, September 15, 1863.
At twenty minutes to eight we reached Perth, where
we breakfasted and dressed, and at twenty minutes past
ic I left with Lenchen, Augusta Bruce, and General
Jrey, for Blair, going past Dunkeld, where we had not
)een since 1844, and which is so beautifully situated,
id Pitlochry, through the splendid Pass of Killiecrankie
(which we so often drove through in 1844), past Mr.
Gutter's place Faskally, on to Blair, having a distant
at the entiance to Glen Tilt, and Schiehallion,
which it made and makes me sick to think of. At the
small station were a few people the poor Duke's High-
landers (keepers), the dear Duchess, Lord Tullibardine,
and Captain Drummond of Mtgginch.
The Duchess was much affected, still more so when
she got into the carriage with me. Lenchen and the
others went in the boat carriage, the one we had gone in
not two years ago !
We drove at once to the house which we had visited
in such joyful and high spirits October 9, two years ago.
The Duchess took me to the same room which I had
been in on that day, and, after talking a little to me of this
dreadful affliction,* she went to see if the Duke was ready.
* The Duke was suffering from an incurable illness.
( 6 )
She soon returned, and I followed her downstairs along.
the passage, full of stags' horns, which we walked along,
together with the poor Duke, in 1861. When I went in,
I found him standing up very much altered ; it was very
sad. He kissed my hand, gave me the white rose which,
according to tradition, is presented by the Lords of
Athole on the occasion of the Sovereign's visit, and we
sat a little while with him. It is a small room, full of his
rifles and other implements and attributes of sport
now for ever useless to him ! A sad, sad contrast. He
seemed very much pleased and gratified.
We went upstairs again and took some breakfast, in
the very same room where we breakfasted on that very-
happy, never-to-be-forgotten day, full of joy and expecta-
tion. While we were breakfasting the door opened, and
in walked the Duke in a thick MacDougal. Mrs. Drum-
mond and Miss MoncreifFe (the Duchess's pretty, amiable
future daughter-in-law) were there, and also Miss Mac-
Gregor, but we did not see her. The poor Duke insisted
on going with me to the station, and he went in the
carriage with the Duchess and me. At the station he-
got out, walked about, and gave directions. I embraced
the dear Duchess and gave the Duke my hand, saying,.
" Dear Duke, God bless you ! " He had asked permission
that his men, the same who had gone with us through
the glen on that happy day two years ago, might give me
a cheer, and he led them on himself. Oh ! it was so-
dreadfully sad ! To think of the contrast to the time two
years ago, when my darling was so well and I so happy with
him, and just beginning to recover from my great sorrow
for dearest Mama's death looking forward to many more
such delightful expeditions ; and the poor Duke then full
of health and strength, walking the whole way, and at the
( 7 )
'"March "* stopping to drink to our health and asking
us to come again whenever we liked, and giving a regular
Highland cheer in Highland fashion, returned by our
men, the pipers playing, and all, all so gay, so bright !
And I so eager for next year's expeditions, which I ought
not to have been ! Oh ! how little we know what is
before us ! How uncertain is life ! I felt very sad, but
was so much occupied with the poor Duke,f for whom
I truly grieve, that I did not feel the trial of returning to
Blair in such terribly altered circumstances, as I should
otherwise have done.
At Stanley function we joined the others, and pro-
ceeded as usual to Aboyne, whence we drove in open
carriages Lenchen, Alfred, and Baby with me and
reached Balmoral at twenty minutes past six. It was
very cold. Bertie and Alix were at the door, and stayed
a little while afterwards. How strange they should be at
Abergddie \ A few years ago dear Mama used to receive
us.
* The boundary of the Duke's property. " March " is the
word commonly used in Scotland to express the outer limit or
boundary of land.
f He died in the following year, January 16, 1864.
CARRIAGE ACCIDENT.
Wednesday, October 7, 1863.
A hazy morning. I decided by Alice's advice, with
a heavy heart, to make the attempt to go to Clova, At
half-past twelve drove with Alice and Lenchen to
Altnagiuthasach, where we lunched, having warmed some
broth and boiled some potatoes, and then rode up and
over the Capel Month in frequent slight snow-showers.
All the high hills white with snow; and the view of the
green Clova hills covered with snow at the tops, with
gleams of sunshine between the showers, was very fine ;
but it took us a long time, and I was very tired towards
the end, and felt very sad and lonely. Loch Muich looked
beautiful in the setting sun as we came down, and
reminded me of many former happy days I spent there.
We stopped to take tea at Altnagiuthasach. Grant was
not with us, having gone with Vicky.* We started at
about twenty minutes to seven from Altnagiuthasach,
Brown on the box next Smith,f who was driving, little
Willem (Alice's black serving boy) behind. It was quite
dark when we left, but all the lamps were lit as usual;
* She and Fritz Wilhelm had come three days before to stay at
Abergeldie with their children.
) Smith was pensioned in 1864 and died in 1866, having been
thirty-one years in the Royal service.
( 9 )
from the first, however, Smith seemed to be quite
confused (and indeed has been much altered of late),
and got off the road several times, once in a very dan-
gerous place, when Alice called out and Brown got off
the box to show him the way. After that, however,
though going very slowly, we seemed to be all right, but
Alice was not at all reassured, and thought Brown's
holding up the lantern all the time on the box indicated
that Smith could not see where he was going, though
the road was as broad and plain as possible. Suddenly,
about two miles from Altnagiuthasach, and about twenty
minutes after we had started, the carriage began to turn
up on one side; we called out: "What's the matter?"
There was an awful pause, during which Alice said: "We
are upsetting." In another moment during which I had
time to reflect whether .we should be killed or not, and
thought there were still things I had not settled and
wanted to do the carriage turned over on its side, and
we were all precipitated to the ground ! I came down
very hard, with my face upon the ground, near the
carriage, the horses both on the ground, and Brown
calling out in despair, " The Lord Almighty have mercy
on us! Who did ever see the like of this before! I
thought you were all killed." Alice was soon helped up
by means of tearing all her clothes to disentangle her;
but Lenchen, who had also got caught in her dress, called
out very piteously, which frightened me a good deal; but
she was also got out with Brown's assistance, and neither
she nor Alice was at all hurt. I reassured them that I
was not hurt, and urged that we should make the best of
it. as it was an inevitable misfortune. Smith, utterly con-
fused and bewildered, at length came up to ask if I was
hurt. Meantime the horses were lying on the ground
as if dead, and it was absolutely necessary to get them rp
again. Alice, whose calmness and coolness were admi-
rable, held one of the lamps while Brown cut the traces,
to the horror of Smith, and the horses were speedily
released and got up unhurt. There was now no means of
getting home except by sending back Smith with the two
horses to get another carriage. All this took some time,
about half an hour, before we got off. By this time I felt
that my face was a good deal bruised and swollen, and,
above all, my right thumb was excessively painful, and much
swollen; indeed I thought at first it was broken, till we
began to move it. Alice advised then that we should sit
down in the carriage* that is, with the bottom of the car-
riage as a back which we did, covered with plaids, little
Willem sitting in front, with the hood of his " bournous "
over his head, holding a lantern, Brown holding another,
and being indefatigable in his attention and care. He
had hurt his knee a good deal in jumping off the carriage.
A little claret was all we could get either to drink or wash
my face and hand. Almost directly after the accident
happened, I said to Alice it was terrible not to be able
to tell it to my dearest Albert, to which she answered:
" But he knows it all, and 1 am sure he watched over us."
I am thankful that it was by no imprudence of mine, or
the slightest deviation from what my beloved one and I
had always been in the habit of doing, and what he
sanctioned and approved.
The thought of having to sit here in the road ever so
long was, of course, not very agreeable, but it was not
cold, and I remembered from the first what my beloved
one had always said to me, namely, to make the best of
what could not be altered. We had a faint hope, at one
moment, that our ponies might overtake us ; but then
Brown recollected that they had started before us. We
did nothing but talk of the accident, and how it could
UNVEILING OF THE PRINCE'S STATUE AT
ABERDEEN.
Thursday \ October 13, 1863.
I was terribly nervous. Longed not to have to go
through this fearful ordeal. Prayed for help, and got up
earlier.
A bad morning. The three younger children (except
Baby). William of Hesse,* and the ladies and gentlemen
all gone on. I started sad and lonely, and so strange
without my darling, with dear Alice, Lenchen, and Louis.
We could not have the carriage open. At Aboyne we
met Vicky and Fritz, and both the couples went with me
in the railway ; the Princes in Highland dress. I felt
bewildered. It poured with rain, unfortunately. To
describe the day's proceedings would be too painful and
difficult ; but I annex the account. Vicky and Alice
were with me, and the long, sad, and terrible procession
through the crowded streets of Aberdeen, where all were
kindly, but all were silent, was mournful, and as unlike
former blessed times as could be conceived. Unfortu-
nately it continued pouring. The spot where the Statue
is placed is rather small, and on one side close to the
bridge, but Marochetti chose it himself.
I got out trembling ; and when I had arrived, there
was no one to direct me and to say, as formerly, what
* Youngest brother of Prince Louis of Hesse.
( '3 )
was to be done. Oh ! it was and is too painful, too
dreadful !
I received (only handed) the Provost's address, and
knighted him (the first since all ended) with General
Grey's sword. Then we all stepped on to the uncovered
and wet platform directly opposite the Statue, which
certainly is low, and rather small for out of doors, but
fine and like. Principal Campbell's prayer was very
long which was trying in the rain but part of it (since
I have read it) is really very good.
I felt very nervous when the Statue was uncovered,
but much regretted that when they presented arms there
was no salute with the drums, bugles, or the pipes, for
the bands below were forbidden to play. I retired
almost immediately.
Just below and in front of where we stood were
Lohlein, Mayet, Grant, Brown, Cowley, P. Farquharson,
D. Stewart, Nestor,* Ross, and Paterson, whom we had
brought with us and why was my darling not near me ?
It was dreadfully sad.
Took a little luncheon in a room upstairs with our
girls, our footmen serving us. After this we left as we
came. Affie met us there, and then took leave at the
station, William of Hesse joining him. It was quite fair,
provokingly so, when we got to Aboyne. Here we parted,
took leave of Vicky and Fritz, and drove back in an open
carriage, reaching Balmoral at half-past six. Very tired ;
thankful it was over, but the recollection of the whole
scene, of the whole journey, without my dear Albert, was
dreadful ! Formerly how we should have dwelt on all !
* Lohlein, the Prince Consort's valet. Mayet, the Prince
Consort's second valet, then with Prince Leopold. Cowley, the
Prince Consort's Jager from ^648, pensioned in 1878, formerly in
the Blues. Nestor Tirard, the Queen's hairdresser since 1846.
( 14 )
[The following account of the ceremonial is taken from the
" Scotsman " newspaper of October 14, 1863.
The preparations made at the North-Eastern Station at
Aberdeen for the reception of Her Majesty and the Princes
and Princesses were very simple and undemonstrative.
Two huge flags were suspended across the inside entrance,
and the floor of the passage leading into the portico at Guild
Street was laid with crimson cloth. The following gentle-
men were in waiting at the station, and received the royal
party on the platform : The Duke of Richmond ; the Lord
Provost and Magistrates ; the Earl of Aberdeen ; Lord
Saltoun ; Sir J. D. H. Elphinstone : Sir Alexander Banner-
man, Bart. ; Lord Barcaple ; Mr. Thomson of Banchory ^
Colonel Fraser of Castle Fraser ; Colonel Fraser, younger,
of Castle Fraser ; Mr. Leslie of Warthill, M.P. ; Mr. Irvine
of Drum, convener of the county ; Colonel Farquharson of
Invercauld ; Sheriff Davidson ; John Webster, Esq., and
several of the railway directors and officials.
On leaving the station, the procession was formed into
the following order, and proceeded by way of Guild Street,.
Regent Quay, Marischal Street, Castle Street, and Union,
Street, to the site of the Memorial :
Body of Police.
Detachment of Cavalry.
The Convener and Master of Hospital of the
Incorporated Trades.
The Principal and Professors of the University of Aberdeen.
The City Architect.
His Grace the Duke of Richmond, the Convener and Sheriff;"
of the County, and the Committee of Subscribers to the
Memorial.
The Lord Provost,
and Magistrates, and Town Council.
The Suite in Attendance on Her Majesty and Royal Family.
Lady Augusta Bruce (in attendance on the Queen).
Countess Hohenthal (in attendance on Crown -Princess
Baroness Schenck (in attendance on Princess Louis of Hesse).
Sir George Grey.
The Princes Alfred, Arthur, and Leopold.
Lady Churchill (Lady-in-Waiting).
The Princess Helena.
The Princess Louise.
The Crown-Prince of Prussia.
The Prince Louis of Hesse.
The Princess Louis of Hesse.
The Crown-Princess of Prussia.
THE QUEEN.
Cavalry Escort.
The procession wound its way along the densely packed
streets amid the deepest silence of the assemblage, everybody
seeming to be animated by a desire to abstain from any
popular demonstrations that might be distasteful to Her
Majesty. On reaching the Northern Club buildings, Her
Majesty, accompanied by the Prince and Princesses, Sir
Charles Phipps,* Lord Charles Fitzroy, Major-General Hood,
Dr. Jenner, General Grey, and the ladies and gentlemen of
the suite, passed from their carriages into the lobby, and
thence into the billiard room a handsome lofty room, which
forms a half oval at the end towards Union Terrace. The
Lord Provost then presented the following address to Her
Majesty :
To THE QUEEN'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY.
The humble Address of Her Majesty's loyal and dutiful subjects,
the contributors to the erection in Aberdeen of a Memorial
Statue of His Royal Highness the Prince -Consort.
May it please your Majesty,
We, your Majesty's most loyal and dutiful subjects, the con-
tributors to the erection in Aberdeen of a Memorial Statue of His
Royal Highness the Prince-Consort, humbly beg leave to approach
* Keeper of the Privy Purse, who died February 24, 1866, to
my great regret, for he was truly devoted and attached to the dear
Prince and me, with whom he had been for twenty years.
your Majesty with the expression of our devoted attachment to you
Majesty's person and government.
We are enabled this day to bring to completion the work which
we undertook in sorrowing and grateful remembrance of that illus-
trious Prince, whose removal by the inscrutable will of Providence
we, in common with all your Majesty's subjects, can never cease to
deplore.
No memorial is necessary to preserve the name of one who
adorned the highest station of the land by the brightest display of
intellectual and moral greatness, as well as the purest and most
enlightened zeal for the public good ; whose memory is revered
throughout the world, as that of few Princes has ever been ; and
whose example will ever be cherished as a most precious inheritance
by this great nation. Yet, in this part of the United Kingdom,
which was honoured by the annual presence of the illustrious
Prince, and in this city, which a few years ago was signally
favoured by the exertion of his great talents as President of the
British Association for the Advancement of Science, an earnest
desire pervaded all ranks to give permanent expression to the pro-
found reverence and affection he had inspired.
How inadequate for such a purpose the memorial we have
erected must be, we ourselves most deeply feel. But that your
Majesty should have on this occasion graciously come forth again
to receive the public homage of your loyal and devoted people, we
regard as a ground of heartfelt thankfulness ; and viewing it as a
proof that your Majesty approves the humble but sincere tribute of
our sorrow, we shall ever be grateful for the exertion which your
Majesty has made to afford us this proof.
That Almighty God, the source of all strength, may comfort
your Majesty's heart, prospering all your Majesty's designs and
efforts for your people's good ; that He may bestow His choicest
favours on your royal offspring, and continue to your devoted sub-
jects for many years the blessings of your Majesty's reign, is our
earnest and constant prayer.
In name of the Contributors,
ALEX. ANDERSON,
Lord Provost of Aberdeen,
Chairman of the Committee of Contributors.
Aberdeen, October 13, 1863.
On receiving the address, Her Majesty handed the
following reply to the Lord Provost :
Your loyal and affectionate address has deeply touched me, and
I thank you for it from my heart.
It was with feelings which I fail in seeking words to express
that I determined to attend here to-day to witness the inaugurating
of the statue which will record to future times the love and respect
of the people of this county and city for my great and beloved
husband. But I could not reconcile it to myself to remain at
Balmoral while such a tribute was being paid to his memory with-
out making an exertion to assure you personally of the deep and
heartfelt sense I entertain of your kindness and affection ; and at
the same time proclaim in public the unbounded reverence and
admiration and the devoted love that fill my heart for him whose
loss must throw a lasting gloom over all my future life.
Never can I forget the circumstances to which you so feelingly
alluded that it was in this city he delivered his remarkable address
to the British Association a very few years ago ; and that in this
county we had for so many years been in the habit of spending some
of the happiest days of our lives.
After the Queen's reply had been handed to the Lord
Provost, Sir George Grey commanded his Lordship to kneel,
when Her Majesty, taking a sword from Sir George, touched
the Provost on each shoulder and said " Rise, Sir Alex-
ander Anderson." This ceremony concluded, the Queen and
the whole of the royal party then proceeded to the platform,
Her Majesty's appearance on which was the signal for the
multitude gathered outside to uncover their heads. Her
Majesty, who appeared to be deeply melancholy and much
depressed, though calm and collected, advanced to the front
of the platform, while the Princes, who were all dressed in
Royal Stewart tartan, and the Princesses, who wore blue
silk dresses, white bonnets, and dark grey cloaks, took up a
position immediately behind her. The proceedings were
opened with a prayer by Principal Campbell, who spoke for
about ten minutes, the assemblage standing uncovered in the
rain, which was falling heavily at the time. During the time the
c
learned Principal was engaged in prayer, Her Majesty more
than once betrayed manifest and well-justified signs of im-
patience at the length of the oration. At the conclusion of
the prayer, a signal was given, the bunting which had con-
cealed the statue was hoisted to the top of a flagstaff, and the
ceremony was complete.
Her Majesty, having scanned the statue narrowly, bowed
to the assemblage and retired from the platform, followed by
the royal party. After the illustrious company had lunched
in the club, the procession was reformed and proceeded the
same way as it came to the Scottish North-Eastern Station
in Guild Street. Her Majesty left Aberdeen about three
o'clock.]
.4465
EXPEDITION TO INVERMARK.
Tuesday, September 19, 1865.
On waking I felt very low and nervous at the thought
of the expedition. All so sadly changed. Started at
eleven o'clock with Lenchen and Jane Churchill, Grant
and Brown on the box like in former happy times.
General Grey had preceded us, and we found him at
the Bridge of Mutch, where our ponies were waiting. We
had four gillies, three of whom were with us in 1861
(Smith, Morgan, and Kennedy). The heat was intense
going up the Polach. I got well enough through the bog,
but Jane Churchill's pony floundered considerably. We
lunched when we had crossed the Tanarand gone a little
way up Mount Keen, and General Grey then went on to
meet Lord Dalhousie. Two of his foresters had come to
show us the way. We remounted after sitting and resting
a little while, and ascended the shoulder of Mount Keen,
and then rode on. The distance was very hazy. We
got off and walked, after which I rode down that fine wild
pass called the Ladder Burn ; but it seemed to strike me
much less than when I first saw it, as all is flat now. At
the foot of the pass Lord Dalhousie met us with General
Grey, and welcomed us kindly ; and at the Shiel, a little
further on, where we had lunched in 1861, Lady Christian
Maule, Lord Dalhousie's sister, met us. She was riding.
c 2
( 20 )
We then went on a few yards further till we came to ihe
Well, where we got off. It is really beautiful, built of
white stones in the shape of the ancient crown of Scotland ;
and in one of the pillars a plate is inserted with this
inscription : " Queen Victoria with the Prince Consort
visited this well and drank of its refreshing waters on the
2oth September, 1861, the year of Her Majesty's great
sorrow ; " and round the spring, which bubbles up beau-
tifully, and quite on a level with the ground, is inscribed
in old English characters the following legend :
Rest, traveller, on this lonely green,
And drink and pray for Scotland's Queen.
We drank with sorrowing hearts from this very well,
where just four years ago I had drunk with my beloved
Albert ; and Grant handed me his flask (one I had given
him), out of which we had drunk on that day ! Lord
Dalhousie has kindly built this well in remembrance of
that occasion. It was quite a pilgrimage.
We afterwards had some tea, close by ; and this fine
wide glen was seen at its best, lit up as it was by the
evening sun, warm as on a summer's day, without a breath
of air, the sky becoming pinker and pinker, the hills
themselves, as you looked down the glen, assuming that
beautifully glowing tinge which they do of an evening.
The Highlanders and ponies grouped around the well
had a most picturesque effect. And yet to me all seemed
strange, unnatural, and sad.
We mounted again, and went on pursuing the same
way as we had done four years ago, going past the old
Castle of Invermark. As there was time, however, we
rode on to Loch Lee, just beyond it, which we had only
seen from a distance on the last occasion. It is quite
small, but extremely pretty, and was beautifully lit up,
reminding me of the farthest end of Loch Mutch. After
this we rode up to the house, the little drawing-room of
which I well remembered ; it brought all back to me.
Lady Christian took us upstairs. I had two nice small
rooms. The two maids, Lenchen and Lady Churchill,
and Brown were all in our passage, away from the rest of
the house. I felt tired, sad, and bewildered. For the
first time in my life I was alone in a strange house, with-
out either mother or husband, and the thought over-
whelmed and distressed me deeply. I had a dear child
with me, but those loving ones above me were both gone,
their support taken away ! It seemed so dreadful !
How many visits we paid together, my darling and I,
and how we ever enjoyed them ! Even 'when they were
trying and formal, the happiness of being together, and
a world in ourselves, was so great.
Dinner was below, in a pretty room which I also
remembered. Only Lord Dalhousie, Lady Christian,
the General, Lady Churchill, Lenchen, and I. I stayed
but a short while below after dinner, and then went up
with Lenchen and Jane Churchill, and afterwards walked
out with Jane. It was very warm.
Wednesday, September 20.
A beautiful morning. Breakfasted alone with Lenchen
in my own little sitting-room waited on by Brown, who
is always ready to try to do anything required. At eleven
we went out, and I planted two trees, and Lenchen one
(instead of her blessed Father, alas !) We then mounted
our ponies as yesterday, and proceeded (accompanied
by Lord Dalhousie, Lady Christian, and several of his
foresters) by a shorter road past the well, where we did
not get off, up the Ladder Burn, on our homeward
( 22 )
journey. We went the same way, stopping at the " March,"
where, in a high wind, we got off and lunched under some
stones. Good Lord Dalhousie * was most hospitable and
kind. The luncheon over, they took leave and went
back, and General Grey went on in advance. As it was
only one o'clock when we sat down to luncheon, we
remained sitting some little time before we commenced
our downward course. It was to-day strange to say
the anniversary of our first visit to Invermark. Then we
proceeded down the same way we had come up, across
the Tanar, and when we had gone up some little way we
stopped again, as we were anxious not to hurry home, and
moreover the carriage would not have been ready to meet
us. We had some tea, sketched a little, and rode on again ;
the sky had become dark and cloudy, and suddenly down
came a most violent shower of rain, which beat fiercely
with the wind. We were just then going over the boggy
part, which, however, we got across very well. As we
came over the Polach the rain ceased. The view of the
Valley of the Gairn and Muich as you descend is beau-
tiful, and reminded me forcibly of our last happy expe-
dition in 1 86 1, when Albert stopped to talk to Grant
about the two forests, and said he and Grant might
possibly be dead before they were completed ! There
lay the landscape stretched out the same as before ;
and all else was changed !
We got home at ten minutes past seven o'clock, when
it was still raining a little.
* He died in 1874.
FIRST VISIT TO DUNKELD.
Monday, October 9, 1865.
A thick, misty, very threatening morning ! There
was no help for it, but it was sadly provoking. It was the
same once or twice in former happy days, and my dear
Albert always said we could not alter it, but must leave
it as it was, and make the best of it. Our three little
ones breakfasted with me. I was grieved to leave my
precious Baby and poor Leopold behind. At ten started
with Lenchen and Janie Ely (the same attendants on the
box). General Grey 'had gone on an hour and a half
before. We took post-horses at Castleton. It rained
more or less the whole time. Then came the long well-
known stage to the Spital of Glenshee, which seemed to
me longer than ever. The mist hung very thick over the
'hills. We changed horses there, and about a quarter of
an hour after we had left it, we stopped to lunch in the
carriage. After some delay we went on and turned into
Strathardle, and then, leaving the Blairgowrie road, down
to the farm of Pitcarmich^ shortly before coming to which
Mr. Small Keir * of Kindrogan met us and rode before
us to this farm. Here we found General Grey and our
ponies, and here the dear Duchess of Athole and Miss
MacGregor met us, and we got out and went for a short
* His father was presented to me at Dunkeld in 1842.
( 24 )
while into the farmhouse, where we took some wine and
biscuit. Then we mounted our ponies (I on dear Fyvie,
Lenchen on Brechin), and started on our course across
the hill. There was much mist. This obscured all the
view, which otherwise would have been very fine. At
first there was a rough road, but soon there was nothing
but a sheep-track, and hardly that, through heather and
stones up a pretty steep hill. Mr. Keir could not keep
up with the immense pace of Brown and Fyvie, which
distanced every one; so he had to drop behind, and his
keeper acted as guide. There was by this time heavy
driving rain, with a thick mist. About a little more than
an hour took us to the "March," where two of the
Dunkeld men met us, John McGregor, the Duke's head
wood-forester, and Gregor McGregor, the Duchess's
gamekeeper ; and the former acted as a guide. The
Duchess and Miss MacGregor were riding with us. We
went from here through larch woods, the rain pouring at
times violently. We passed (after crossing the Dunkeld
March] Little Loch Otshne, and Loch Ois/ine, before
coming to Loch Ordie. Here dripping wet we arrived at
about a quarter-past six, having left Pitcarmich at twenty
minutes to four. It was dark already from the very bad
weather. We went into a lodge here, and had tea and
whisky, and Lenchen had to get herself dried, as she was
so wet. About seven we drove off from Loch Ordie.
There was no outrider, so we sent on first the other car-
riage with Lenchen, Lady Ely, and Miss MacGregor, and
General Grey on the box, and I went with the Duchess
in a phaeton which had a hood Brown and Grant going
behind. It was pitch-dark, and we had to go through a
wood, and I must own I was somewhat nervous.
We had not gone very far when we perceived that we
were on a very rough road, and I became much alarmed,
1368
( 25 )
though I would say nothing. A branch took off Grant's
cap, and we had to stop for Brown to go back and look
for it with one of the carriage-lamps. This stoppage was
most fortunate, for he then discovered we were on a com-
pletely wrong road. Grant and Brown had both been
saying, " This is no carriage-road ; it is full of holes and
stones." Miss MacGregor came to us in great distress,
saying she did not know what to do, for that the coach-
man, blinded by the driving rain, had mistaken the road,
and that we were in a track for carting wood. What
was to be done no one at this moment seemed to know
whether to try and turn the carriage (which proved
impossible) or to take a horse out and send the postilion
back to Loch Ordie to get assistance. At length we heard
from General Grey that we could go on, though where we
should get out no one could exactly tell. Grant took a
lamp out of the carriage and walked before the horses,
while Brown led them ; and this reassured me. But the
road was very rough, and we had to go through some deep
holes full of water. At length, in about twenty minutes,
we saw a light and passed a lodge, where we stopped
and inquired where we were, for we had already come
upon a good road. Our relief was great when we were
told we were all right. Grant and Brown got up behind,
and we trotted along the high road fast enough. Just
before we came to the lodge, General Grey called out to
ask which way the Duchess thought we should go, and
Brown answered in her name, " The Duchess don't know
at all where we are," as it was so dark she could not re-
cognise familiar places. At length at a quarter to nine we
arrived quite safely at Dunkeld, at the Duchess's nice snug
little cottage, which is just outside the town, surrounded by
fine large grounds. Two servants in kilts, and the steward,
received us at the door. You come at once on the
middle landing of the staircase, the cottage being built on
sloping ground. The Duchess took me to my room, a
nice little room, next to which was one for my wardrobe
maid, Mary Andrews.* Lenchen was upstairs near Miss
MacGregor on one side of the drawing-room, which was
given up to me as my sitting-room, and the Duchess's
room on the other. Brown, the only other servant in the
house, below, Grant in the adjoining buildings to the
house. The General and Lady Ely were at the hotel.
We dined at half-past nine in a small dining-room below,
only Lenchen, the Duchess, Miss MacGregor, and I.
Everything so nice and quiet. The Duchess and Miss
Macgregor carving, her three servants waiting. They
were so kind, and we talked over the day's adventures.
Lenchen and every one, except the Duchess and myself,
had been drenched. The Duchess and her cousin
stayed a short while, and then left us, and I wrote a
little. Strange to say, it was four years to-day that we
paid our visit to Blair and rode up Glen Tilt. How
different !
Tuesday, October 10.
A hopelessly wet morning. I had slept well, but felt
sad on awaking. Breakfasted alone with Lenchen down-
stairs, each day waited on by Brown. A dreadful morning,
pouring rain. Sat upstairs in the drawing-room, and
wrote a good deal, being perfectly quiet and undisturbed.
Lenchen and I lunched with the Duchess and Miss
MacGregor, and at four we drove up to the Duchess's
very fine model farm of St. Colme's, about four miles from
Dunkeld ; the Duchess and I in the phaeton, Lenchen,
Janie Ely, and Miss MacGregor going in the other carriage.
We went all over the farm in detail, which is very like
* She left my service in 1866.
( 27 )
ours at Osborne and Windsor, much having been adopted
from our farms there ; and my dearest Husband had
given the Duchess so much advice about it, that we both
felt so sad he should not see it.
We took tea in the farmhouse, where the Duchess has
kept one side quite for herself, and where she intends to
live sometimes with Miss MacGregor, and almost by
themselves. From here we drove back and stopped at
the "Byres" close by the stables, which were lit up
with gas, and where we saw all the cows being milked.
Very fine Ayrshire cows, and nice dairymaids. It is all
kept up just as the late Duke wished it. We came home
at past seven. It never ceased raining. The Cathedral
bell began quite unexpectedly to ring, or almost toll, at
eight o'clock, which the Duchess told us was a very
old custom in fact, the curfew-bell. It sounds very
melancholy.
Dinner just as yesterday.
Wednesday, October n.
Another wretchedly wet morning. Was much dis-
tressed at breakfast to find that poor Brown's legs had been
dreadfully cut by the edge of his wet kilt on Monday, just
at the back of the knee, and he said nothing about it ;
but to-day one became so inflamed, and swelled so much,
that he could hardly move. The doctor said he must
keep it up as much as possible, and walk very little, but
did not forbid his going out with the carriage, which he
wished to do. I did not go out in the morning, and
decided to remain till Friday, to give the weather a chance.
It cleared just before luncheon, and we agreed to take a
drive, which we were able to do almost without any rain.
At half-past three we drove out just as yesterday. There
( 28 )
was no mist, so that, though there was no sunshine, we
could see and admire the country, the scenery of which
is beautiful. We drove a mile along the Blair Road to
Polney Loch, where we entered the woods, and, skirting
the loch, drove at the foot of Craig y Barns on grass drives
which were very deep and rough, owing to the wet
weather, but extremely pretty on to the Loch Ordie road.
After ascending this for a little way we left it, driving all
round Cally Loch (there are innumerable lochs) through
Cally Gardens along another fine but equally rough wood
drive, which comes out on the Blairgmvrie high road. After
this we drove round the three Lochs of the Lowes viz.
Craig Lush, Butterstone, and the Loch of the Lowes itself
(which is the largest). They are surrounded by trees and
woods, of which there is no end, and are very pretty. We
came back by the Blairgowrie road and drove through
Dunkeld (the people had been so discreet and quiet, I
said I would do this), crossing over the bridge (where
twenty -two years ago we were met by twenty of the Athole
Highlanders, who conducted us to the entrance of the
grounds), and proceeded by the upper road to the Rum-
bling Bridge, which is Sir William Stewart of Grantitlly's
property. We got out here and walked to the bridge, under
which the Braan flowed over the rocks most splendidly ;
and, swollen by the rain, it came down in an immense
volume of water with a deafening noise. Returning
thence we drove through the village of Inver to the Her-
mitage on the banks of the Braan, which is Dunkeld
property. This is a little house full of looking-glasses,
with painted walls, looking on another fall of the Braan,
where we took tea almost in the dark. It was built by
James, the second Duke of Athole, in the last century.
We drove back through Dunkeld again, the people cheer-
ing. Quite fair. We came home at half-past six o'clock.
Lady Ely and General Grey dined with us. After dinner
only the Duchess came to the drawing-room, and read
to us again. Then I wrote, and Grant waited instead of
Brown, who was to keep quiet on account of his leg.
Thursday, October 12.
A fair day, with no rain, but, alas ! no sunshine.
Brown's leg was much better, and the doctor thought he
could walk over the hill to-morrow.
Excellent breakfasts, such splendid cream and butter !
The Duchess has a very good cook, a Scotchwoman, and
I thought how dear Albert would have liked it all. He
always said things tasted better in smaller houses. There
were several Scotch dishes, two soups, and the celebrated
"haggis," which I tried last night, and really liked very
much. The Duchess was delighted at my taking it.
At a quarter past twelve Lenchen and I walked with
the Duchess in the grounds and saw the Cathedral, part
of which is converted into a parish church, and the other
part is a most picturesque ruin. We saw the tomb of the
Wolf of Badenoch, son of King Robert the Second.
There are also other monuments, but in a very dilapidated
state. The burying-ground is inside and south of the
Cathedral. We walked along the side of the river Tay,
into which the river Braan flows, under very fine trees,
as far as the American garden, and then round by the
terrace overlooking the park, on which the tents were
pitched at the time of the great dejeuner that the Duke,
then Lord Glenlyon, gave us in 1842, which was our first
acquaintance with the Highlands and Highland customs ;
and it was such a fine sight ! Oh ! and here we were
together both widows !
We came back through the kitchen-garden by half-past
( 30 )
one o'clock. After the usual luncheon, drove with Lenchen,
the Duchess, and Miss MacGregor, at twenty minutes to
four, in her sociable to Loch Ordie, by the lakes of Rotmell
and Dowally through the wood, being the road by which
we ought to have come the first night when we lost our
way. It was cold, but the sky was quite bright, and it
was a fine evening ; and the lake, wooded to the water's
edge and skirted by distant hills, looked extremely
pretty. We took a short row on it in a " coble " rowed
by the head keeper, Gregor M'Gregor. We took tea
under the trees. The evening was very cold, and it was
getting rapidly dark. We came back safely by the road
the Duchess had wished to come the other night, but
which her coachman did not think safe on account of the
precipices ! We got home at nine. Only the Duchess
and Miss MacGregor dined with us. The Duke's former
excellent valet, Christie (a Highlander, and now thej
Duchess's house-steward), and George McPherson, piper,
and Charles McLaren, footman, two nice, good-looking
Highlanders in the Athole tartan, waited on us. The
Duchess read again a little to us after dinner.
Friday ', October 13.
Quite a fine morning, with bright gleams of sunshine*
lighting up everything. The piper played each morning
in the garden during breakfast. Just before we left at
ten, I planted a tree, and spoke to an old acquaintance,
Willie Duff, the Duchess's fisherman, who had formerly
a very long black beard and hair, which are now quite
grey. Mr. Carrington, who has been Secretary in the
Athole family for four generations, was presented. General
Grey, Lady Ely, and Miss MacGregor had gone on a
little while before us. Lenchen and I, with the Duchess,
went in the sociable with four horses (Brown and Grant
on the box). The weather was splendid, and the view,
as we drove along the Inverness Road which is the road
to Blair with all the mountains rising in the distance,
was beautiful.
We passed through the village of Ballinluig, where
there is a railway station, and a quarter of a mile below
which the Toy and the Tummel unite, at a place called
Logierait, All these names were familiar to me from our
stay in 1844. We saw the place where the monument
to the Duke is to be raised, on an eminence above
Logierait. About eleven miles from Dunkeld, just
below Croftinloan (Captain Jack Murray's), we took
post-horses. You could see Pitlochry in the distance to
the left. We then left the Inverness Road, and turned to
the right, up a very steep hill past Dunavourd (Mr.
Napier's, son of the historian), past Edradour (the Duke's
property), over a wild moor, reminding one very much
of Aberarder (near Balmoral), whence, looking back,
you have a beautiful view of the hills Schiehallion, Ben
Lomond, and Ben Lawers. This glen is called Glen
Brearichan, the little river of that name uniting with the
Fernate, and receiving afterwards the name of the Ardle.
On the left hand a shoulder of Ben-y- Gloe is seen.
We lunched in the carriage at ten minutes past
twelve, only a quarter of a mile from the West Lodge ot
Kindrogan (Mr. Keir's). Here were our ponies, and
General Grey, Lady Ely, and Miss MacGregor. We
halted a short while to let General Grey get ahead, and
then started on our ponies, Mr. Keir walking with us.
We passed Mr. Keir's house of Kindrogan, out at the
East Lodge, by the little village of Enoch Dim, up the
rather steep ascent and approach of Dirnanean Mr.
Small's place ; passing his house as we went. Mr. Small
( 32 )
was absent, but two of his people, tall, fine-looking men,
led the way ; two of Mr. Keir's were also with us. We
turned over the hill from here, through a wild, heathery
glen, and then up a grassy hill called the Larich, just
above the Spital. Looking back the view was splendid,
one range of hills behind the other, of different shades of
blue. After we had passed the summit, we stopped for
our tea, about twenty minutes to four, and seated
ourselves on the grass, but had to wait for some time till
a kettle arrived which had been forgotten, and had to be
sent for from the Spital. This caused some delay. At
length, when tea was over, we walked down a little way,
and then rode. It was really most distressing to me to
see what pain poor Brown suffered, especially in going
up and down the hill. He could not go fast, and
walked lame, but would not give in. His endurance on
this occasion showed a brave heart indeed, for he resisted
all attempts at being relieved, and would not relinquish
his charge.
We took leave of the dear kind Duchess and Miss
MacGregor, who were going back to Kindrogan, and got
into the carriage. We were able to ascend the Devil's
Elbow before it was really dark, and got to Castleton at
half- past seven, where we found our own horses, and
reached Balmoral at half-past eight.
( 33 )
SECOND VISIT TO DUNKELD.
Monday, October i, 1866.
A very fine morning. Got up earlier, and break-
fasted earlier, and left at a quarter to ten with Louise
and Janie Ely (attended by Brown and Grant as
formerly) ; Arthur having gone on with General Grey.
We met many droves of cattle on the road, as it was the
day for the tryst at Castleton. It was very hot, the sun
very bright, and the Cairn Wall looked wild and grand.
But as we went on the sky became dull and overcast,
and we almost feared there might be rain. We walked
down the Devil's Elbow, and when within a mile and a
half of the Spital we stopped and lunched in the carriage,
and even sketched a little. A little way on the north
side of the Spital were the ponies, Gordon for me,
Brechin for Louise, and Cromar for Janie Ely. There
was a pony for Arthur, which he did not ride, and for
Grant or any one who was tired. The dear Duchess of
Athole and Miss MacGregor came to meet us here, and
when we had reached the spot where the road turns up
the hill, we found Mr. Keir and his son, and Mr. Small
of Dirnanean a strong, good-looking, and pleasing
person about thirty-two and his men, the same two
fine tall men, preceding us as last year. It was a steep
climb up the hill which we had then come down, and
D
( 34 )
excessively hot. The views both ways beautiful, though
not clear. The air was very heavy and oppressive. We
went the same way as before, but the ground was very
wet from the great amount of rain. We stopped a
moment in passing, at Dirnanean, to speak to Miss
Small, Mr. Small's sister, a tall, stout young lady,* and
then went on to Kindrogan, Mr. Keir's. All about here
the people speak Gaelic, and there are a few who do not
speak a word of English. Soon after entering Mr. Keir's
grounds we got off our ponies, and went along a few
yards by the side of the river Ardle to where Mr. Keir
had got a fire kindled and a kettle boiling, plaids spread
and tea prepared. Mrs. Keir and her two daughters
were there. She is a nice quiet person, and was a Miss
Menzies, daughter of Sir Niel Menzies, whom I saw at
Tay mouth in 1842. Only we ladies remained. The tea
over, we walked up to the house, which is a nice,
comfortable one. We waited here a little while, and I
saw at the door Major Balfour of Fernie, the intended
bridegroom of Mr. Keir's youngest daughter. At a
little over a quarter-past five started in my sociable, with
Louise and the Duchess. We came very fast and well
with the Duchess's horses by exactly the same road we
drove from Dunkeld last year. The horses were watered
at the small half-way house of Ballinluig, and we reached
Dunkeld in perfect safety at ten minutes past seven. I
am where I was before, Louise in Lenchen's room, and
Arthur in a room next to where Brown was before, and
is now. All the rest the same, and snug, peaceful, and
comfortable.
* Their father, a man of immense size, was presented to me at
Dunkeld in 1842.
( 35 )
Dunkeld, Tuesday, October 2.
Mild and muggy, the mist hanging on the hills.
Breakfasted with the children. Andrew Thomson
attends to Arthur. Emilie * and Annie Macdonald t
are with me here ; they help Louise, who, however, is
very handy and can do almost everything for herself.
At half-past eleven I drove out alone with the Duchess
through the woods to Polney, and then along the road,
and turned in at Willie Duff's Lodge, and down the whole
way along the river under splendid trees which remind
me of Windsor Park. How dearest Albert would have
admired them ! We ended by a little walk, and looked
into the old ruin. At twenty minutes to four we drove,
the Duchess, Louise, and I Janie Ely and Miss Mac-
Gregor following to Criejf-gs&e. on the road of the Loch of
the Loives, where we got on ponies and rode for about an
hour and a half through beautiful woods (saw a caper-
cailzie, of which there are many here), but in a very thick
mist (with very fine rain) which entirely destroyed all
idea of view and prevented one's seeing anything but
what was near. We came down to St. ColmJs, where we
got off, but where again, like last year, we saw nothing of
the beautiful view. Here we took tea out of the tea-set I
had given the Duchess. She has furnished all her rooms
here so prettily. How Albert would have liked all this !
Dinner as yesterday. Brown waited at dinner.
* Emilie Dittweiler, my first dresser, a native of Carlsruhe, in
the Grand Duchy of Baden, who has been twenty-four years in my
service.
. f My first wardrobe woman, who has been twenty-seven years
in my service, daughter of Mitchel, the late blacksmith at Clachan-
turn, near Abergeldie, and widow of my footman, John Macdonald,
who died in 1865 (vide " Our Life in the Highlands").
D 2
( 36 )
Wednesday, October 3.
Just returned from a beautiful and successful journey
of seventy miles (in ten hours and a half). I will try and
begin an account of it. At nine the Duchess sent up to
say she thought the mist would clear off (it was much the
same as yesterday), and to suggest whether we had not
better try and go as far as her horses would take us, and
return if it was bad. I agreed readily to this. Arthur
left before our breakfast to go to the Pass of Killiecrankie
with Lady Ely and General Grey. At a quarter past ten,
well provided, we started, Louise, the Duchess, Miss
MacGregor, and I (in our riding habits, as they take less
room). The mist was very thick at first, and even accom-
panied by a little drizzling rain, so that we could see none
of the distant hills and scenery. We crossed the Toy
Bridge, drove through Little Dunkeld and along the
Braan through Inver (where Niel Gow, the fiddler, lived),
afterwards along the Toy opposite to St. ColmJs. Four
miles from Dunkeld, at Inchmagranachan Farm, the
Highlands are supposed to begin, and this is one of the
boundaries of Athole. We drove through some beautiful
woods oak and beech with brushwood, reminding one
of Windsor Park overtopped by rocks. A mile further
Dalguise begins (the property of Mr. Stewart, now at the
Cape of Good Hope), which is remarkable for two large
orchards at either end, the trees laden with fruit in a way
that reminded me of Germany. Kinnaird is next, the
jointure house of the late Lady Glenlyon (mother to the
late Duke). Just beyond this the Tummel and the Tay
join at the point of Logierait.
We now entered Strath Tay, still the Duke of Athole's .
property, on the side along which we drove. The Tay
is a fine large river ; there are many small properties on
( 37 )
the opposite side in the woods. The mist was now less
thick and there was no rain, so that all the near country
could be well seen. Post-horses from Fisher of Castle-
ton's brother, the innkeeper at Dunkeld, were waiting for
us at Skituan, a little beyond Balnaguard (where we
changed horses in 1842, and this was the very same road
we took then). Now an unsightly and noisy railroad runs
along this beautiful glen, from Dunkeld?& far as Aberfeldy.
We passed, close to the road, Grantnlly Castle, belong-
ing to Sir William Stewart, and rented by the Maharajah
Duleep Singh. It is a curious old castle, much in the
style of Abergeldte,'yi\\h an avenue of trees leading up to it.
At Aberfeldy, a pretty village opposite to Castle
Menzies, one or two people seemed to know us. We now
came in among fine high-wooded hills, and here it was
much clearer. We were in the Breadalbane property and
approaching Toy mouth. We passed, to the left, Bolfrax,
where Lord Breadalbane's factor still lives, and to the
right the principal lodge of Taymouth, which I so well
remember going in by ; but as we could not have driven
through the grounds without asking permission and be-
coming known, which for various reasons we did not wish,
we decided on not attempting it, and contented ourselves
with getting out at a gate, close to a small fort, into
which we were admitted by a woman from the gardener's
house, close to which we stopped, and who had no idea
who we were. * We got out and looked down from this
height upon the house below, the mist having cleared
away sufficiently to show us everything ; and here un-
known, quite in private, I gazed, not without deep inward
emotion, on the scene of our reception, twenty-four years
ago, by dear Lord Breadalbane in a princely style, not to
be equalled for grandeur and poetic effect ! Albert and
* The passage between the asterisks was quoted in a note in
"Our Life in the Highlands," page 22.
I were only twenty-three, young and happy. How many
are gone who were with us then ! I was very thankful
to have seen it again. It seemed unaltered. * Everything
was dripping from the mist. Taymouth is twenty-two
miles from Dunkeld.
We got into the carriage again ; the Duchess this time
sitting near to me to prevent our appearance creating
suspicion as to my being there. We drove on a short way
through splendid woods with little waterfalls, and then
turned into the little village of Kenmore, where a tryst was
being held, through the midst of which we had to drive ;
but the people only recognised the Duchess. There was
music going on, things being sold at booths, and on the
small sloping green near the church cattle and ponies were
collected a most picturesque scene. Immediately after
this we came upon the bridge, and Loch Tay, with its
wooded banks, clear and yet misty, burst into view. This
again reminded me of the past of the row up the loch,
which is sixteen miles long, in 1842, in several boats, with
pibrochs playing, and the boatmen singing wild Gaelic
songs. The McDougall steered us then, and showed us
the real Brooch of Lome taken from Robert Bruce.
To the right we could see the grounds and fine park,
looking rather like an English one. We stopped at Mur-
ray's Lodge, but, instead of changing horses here, drove
five miles up the loch, which was quite clear, and the
stillness so great that the reflection on the lake's bosom
was as strong as though it were a real landscape. Here
we stopped, and got out and sat down on the shore of the
loch, which is covered with fine quartz, of which we picked
up some ; took our luncheon about half-past one, and then
sketched. By this time the mist had given way to the sun,
and the lake, with its richly wooded banks and changing
foliage, looked beautiful.
( 39 )
At half-past two we re-entered our carriage, the horses
having been changed, and drove back up a steep hill,
crossing the river Lyon and going into Glenlyon, a. beauti-
ful wild glen with high green hills and rocks and trees,
which I remember quite well driving through in 1842
then also on a misty day : the mist hung over, and even
in some places below the tops of the hills. We passed
several small places Glenlyon House, the property of F.
G. Campbell of Troup. To the left also Fortingal village
Sir Robert Menzies' and a new place called Dunaven
House. Small, picturesque, and very fair cottages were
dotted about, and there were others in small clusters ;
beautiful sycamores and other trees were to be seen near
the riverside. We then passed the village of Coshieville,
and turned by the hill-road up a very steep hill with a
burn flowing at the bottom, much wooded, reminding me
ofM'fnroy's Burn passed the ruins of the old castle of
the Stewarts of Garth, and then came on a dreary wild
moor passing below Schiehallion, one of the high hills
and at the summit of the road came to a small loch,
called Ceannairdiche.
Soon after this we turned down the hill again into
woods, and came to Tummel Bridge, where we changed
horses. Here were a few, but very few people, who I
think, from what Brown and Grant who, as usual, were
in attendance said, recognised us, but behaved extremely
well, and did not come near. This was at twenty minutes
to four. We then turned as it were homewards, but had
to make a good long circuit, and drove along the side of
Loch Tuinmel, high above the loch, through birch wood,
which grows along the hills much the same as about
Birkhall. It is only three miles long. Here it was again
very clear and bright. At the end of the loch, on a high-
ish point called after me " The Queen's View " though
( 40 )
I had not been there in 1844 we got out and took tea.
But this was a long and unsuccessful business ; the fire
would not burn, and the kettle would not boil. At length
Brown ran off to a cottage and returned after some little
while with a can full of hot water, but it was no longer
boiling when it arrived, and the tea was not good. Then
all had to be packed, and it made us very late.
It was fast growing dark. We passed Alleinc, Sir
Robert Colquhoun's place, almost immediately after this,
and then, at about half-past six, changed horses at the
Bridge of Garry, near, or rather in the midst of, the Pass
of Killiecrankie; but from the lateness of the hour and
the dulness of the evening for it was raining we could
see hardly anything.
We went through Pitlochry, where we were recognised,
but got quite quietly through, and reached Ballinl-uig,
where the Duchess's horses were put on, at a little before
half-past seven. Here the lamps were lit, and the good
people had put two lighted candles in each window!
They offered to bring " Athole brose," which we, however,
declined. The people pressed round the carriage, and
one man brought out a bull's-eye lantern which he turned
upon me. But Brown, who kept quite close, put himself
between me and the glare. We ought to have been
home in less than an hour from this time, but we had
divers impediments twice the plaid fell out and had to
be picked up; and then the lamp which I had given to
the Duchess, like the one our outrider carries, was lit,
and the coachman who rode outrider, and who was not
accustomed to use it, did not hold it rightly, so that it
went out twice, and had to be relit each time. So we
only got home at a quarter to nine, and dined at twenty
minutes past nine. But it was a very interesting day.
We must have gone seventy-four miles.
Thursday, October 4.
Again heavy mist on the hills most provoking but
without rain. The Duchess came to ask if I had any
objection to the servants and gillies having a dance for
two hours in the evening, to which I said, certainly not,
and that I would go to it myself. At a quarter to twelve
I rode in the grounds with the Duchess, going round
Bishop's Hill and up to the King's Seat, a good height,
among the most splendid trees beeches, oaks, Scotch
firs, spruce really quite like Windsor, and reminding
me of those fine trees at the Belvidere, and a good deal
of Reinhardtsbrunn (in the forest of Thuringia). But
though less heavy than the two preceding mornings and
quite dry, it was too hazy to see any distant hills, and
Craig y Barns, that splendid rocky, richly wooded hill
overtopping the whole, only peeped through the mist
occasionally. From the King's Seat we came down by
the fort and upon the old " Otter Hound Kennels" where
we saw Mrs. Fisher, the mother of Agnes Brierly, who was
formerly schoolmistress to the Lochnagar girls' school near
Balmoral. We came in at a little after one, expecting it
would clear and become much finer, instead of which it
got darker and thicker.
At twenty minutes to four drove with the Duchess,
Miss MacGregor and Janie Ely following, to Loch Ch'.nie
by the Loch of the Lowes, and passed Laighwood Farm.
We drove round the loch; saw and stopped to sketch the
old castle of Chtnie, on a little island in the loch, the
property of Lord Airlie. The scenery is tame, but very
pretty with much wood, which is now in great beauty
from the change of the leaf. The distance was enveloped
in mist, and, as we drove back towards Dunkeld by the
Cupar Angus Road, it was quite like a thick Windsor
fog, but perfectly dry.
( 42 )
We stopped to take tea at Ntwfyle, a farm of the
Duchess, about two miles from Dunkeld, where she has
a small room, and which supplies turnips, etc., for the fine
dairy cows. We got home by five minutes to seven. We
passed through the town, where the people appeared at
their doors cheering, and the children made a great noise.
Dinner as before. At half-past ten we went down
(through the lower passages) to the servants' hall, in
which the little dance took place. All the Duchess's
servants, the wives of the men-servants, the keepers, the
wood-forester (J. M'Gregor, who has an extensive charge
over all the woods on the Athole property), the gardener,
and some five or six others who belong to my guard
(eight people, belonging to the Duchess or to the town,
who take their turn of watching two by two at night),
besides all our servants, were there; only Grant and two
of the gillies did not appear, which vexed us; but the
gillies had not any proper shoes, they said, and therefore
did not come. Janie Ely came; also Mr. Keir, and both
were very active; General Grey only looked in for a
moment, as he was suffering severely from cold. The
fiddlers played in very good time, and the dancing was
very animated, and went on without ceasing. Louise
and Arthur both danced a good deal. Nothing but reels
were danced. Even the Duchess's old French maid,
Clarice, danced! She no longer acts as the Duchess's
maid, but still lives near, in the adjacent so-called " brick
buildings."
Friday, October 5.
A brighter morning, though still hazy. The sun came
out and the mist seemed dispersing. At twenty minutes
to one started with the Duchess and Louise, the two
ladies following, for Loch Ordie. Several times during
( 43 )
the drive the mist regained its mastery, but then again
the sun struggled through, blue sky appeared, and the
mist seemed to roll away and the hills and woods to break
through. We drove by Craig Lush and Butterstone Lochs,
and then turned by the Riechip Burn up a very steep
hill, finely wooded, passing by Riechip and Raemore, two
of the Duke of Athole's shooting lodges, both let. After
the last the road opens upon a wild moor (or " muir ")
for a short while, before entering the plantations and
woods of Loch Ordie. Here, quite close to the lodge, on
the grass, we took luncheon. The Duchess had had a
hot venison pie brought, which was very acceptable. The
sun had come out, and it was delightfully warm, with a
blue sky and bright lights, and we sat sketching for some
time. The good people have made a cairn amongst the
trees where we had tea last year.
At four we drove away, and went by the road which
leads towards Tullymet, and out of the woods by Hardy's
Lodge, near a bridge. We stopped at a very picturesque
place, surrounded by woods and hills and little shiels,
reminding me of the Laucha Grund at Reinhardtsbntnn.
Opposite to this, on a place called Ruidh Reinnich, or the
" ferny shieling," a fire was kindled, and we took our tea.
We then drove back by the upper St. Colme's Road, after
which we drove through the town, up Bridge Street, and
to the Market Cross, where a fountain is being erected in
memory of the Duke. We went to see the dairy, and
then came home on foot at a quarter to seven. Rested
on the sofa, as my head was bad ; it got better, however,
after dinner.
Saturday, October 6.
A beautiful, bright, clear morning, most provokingly
so. After breakfast at half-past nine, we left, with real
( 44 )
regret, the kind Duchess's hospitable house, where all
breathes peace and harmony, and where it was so quiet
and snug. It was a real holiday for me in my present
sad life. Louise and the Duchess went with me; the
others had gone on. Some of the principal people con-
nected with the Duchess stood along the approach as we
drove out. We went the usual way to Loch Ordie, and
past the lodge, on to the east end of the loch, the latter
part of the road being very rough and deep. Here we
all mounted our ponies at half-past eleven, and proceeded
on our journey. A cloudless sky, not a breath of wind,
and the heat intense and sickening. We went along a
sort of cart-road or track. The burn of Riechip runs out
of this glen, through which we rode, and which really is
very beautiful, under the shoulder of Benachallie. The
shooting tenant of Raemore, a Mr. Gordon, was out on
the opposite side of the glen on a distant hill. We rode
on through the woods ; the day was very hazy. After a
few miles the eastern shore of Loch Oishne was reached,
and we also skirted Little Loch Oishne for a few hundred
yards. We followed from here the same road which we
had come on that pouring afternoon in going to Dunkeld
last year, till at a quarter to one we reached the Kindro-
gan March. Here Mr. Keir, his son, and his keeper met
us. Thence we rode by Glen Derby, a wild open glen
with moors. Descending into it, the road was soft but
quite safe, having been purposely cut and put in order
by Mr. Keir. We then ascended a steepish hill, after
passing a shepherd's hut. Here Arthur and General
Grey rode off to Kindrogan, young Mr. Keir with them,
whence they were to drive on in advance. As we de-
scended, we came upon a splendid view of all the hills,
and also of Glen Female, which is the way to Fealar.
At half-past two we five ladies lunched on a heathery
( 45 )
knoll, just above Mr. Keir's wood, and were indeed glad
to do so, as we were tired by the great heat. As soon as
luncheon was over, we walked down through the wood a
few hundred yards to where the carriage was. Here we
took leave, with much regret, of the dear kind Duchess
and amiable Miss MacGregor, and got into the carriage
at half-past three, stopping for a moment near Kindrogan
to wish Mrs. Keir and her family good-bye. We drove
on by Kirkmichael, and then some little way until we got
into the road from Blairgowrie. The evening was quite
splendid, the sky yellow and pink, and the distant hills
coming out soft and blue, both behind and in front of us.
We changed horses at the Spital, and about two miles
beyond it at a place called Loch-na-Braig we stopped,
and while Grant ran back to get from a small house some
hot water in the kettle, we three, with Brown's help,
scrambled over a low stone wall by the roadside, and lit
a fire and prepared our tea. The kettle soon returned,
and the hot tea was very welcome and refreshing.
We then drove off again. The scenery was splendid
till daylight gradually faded away, and then the hills
looked grim and severe in the dusk. We cleared the
Devil's Elbow well, however, before it was really dark,
and then many stars came out, and we reached Balmoral
in safety at half-past eight o'clock.
OPENING OF THE ABERDEEN WATERWORKS.
Tuesday, October 16, 1866.
At a quarter-past ten left for Ballater with Lenchen
and Louise ; Christian, Arthur, the Duchess of Roxburghe
and Emily Cathcart in the second ; the gentlemen
(General Grey, * etc.) having gone on in front. We went
by the railway, which was useful on this occasion. We
went about three-quarters of an hour by railway, and
then stopped close to Inchmarlo, Mr. Davidson's place,
not far from Kincardine O'Ncil. Here we got into
carriages Lenchen and Louise with me, Christian,
Arthur, and the two equerries, etc., in the next. About
twenty minutes' drive took us to Intiercannie, where the'
ceremony took place. I got out and stood outside the
tent while the Lord Provost (whom I knighted at Aber-
deen in 1863) read the address. Then I had to read my
answer, which made me very nervous ; but I got through
it well, though it was the first time I had read anything
since my darling Husband was taken from me. Then
came the turning of the cock, and it was very pretty to see
the water rushing up.
* He died on March 31, 1870. He had been with me as
equerry from the time I came to the Throne. In 1846 he became
Private Secretary to the Prince, and from December 1861 held the
same position with me till his death. He was highly esteemed and
valued by us both, and his loss grieved me deeply.
( 47 ) '
These waterworks are on a most extensive scale, and
are estimated to convey to the city 6,000,000 gallons of
water daily. The water is from the river Z)ee, from
which it is diverted at Cairnton, about four miles above
Bancliory. The principal features of the works are a
tunnel 760 yards in length, which is cut through the
hill of Cairnton, composed of solid rock of a very hard
nature. At the end of the tunnel is the Invercannie
Reservoir, where the ceremony took place. This reser-
voir is estimated to contain 15,000,000 gallons of water.
It is just two years and a half since the first turf of
the undertaking was cut, and the cost of the works is
i3o,ooo/. The ceremony was over in less than a quarter
of an hour, and we returned as we came, stopping a
moment at the door of Mr. Davidson's house, where his
daughter presented me with a nosegay. The day was
fine and mild. The people were very kind, and cheered
a good deal.
We got back at twenty minutes past two.
HALLOWEEN,
OCTOBER 31, 1866-1867.
While we were at Mrs. Grant's we saw the commence-
ment of the keeping of Halloween. All the children
came out with burning torches, shouting and jumping.
The Protestants generally keep Halloween on the old
day, November 12, and the Catholics on this day; but
hearing I had wished to see it two years ago, they all
decided to keep it to-day. When we drove home we saw
all the gillies coming along with burning torches, and
torches and bonfires appeared also on the opposite side
of the water. We went upstairs to look at it from the
windows, from whence it had a very pretty effect.
On the same day in the following year, viz., Thursday,
October 31, 1867, we had an opportunity of again seeing
the celebration of Halloween, and even of taking part in
it. We had been out driving, but we hurried back to be
in time for the celebration. Close to Donald Stewart's
house we were met by two gillies bearing torches. Louise
got out and took one, walking by the side of the carriage,
and looking like one of the witches in "Macbeth." As
we approached Balmoral^ the keepers and their wives and
children, the gillies and other people met us, all with
torches ; Brown also carrying one. We got out at the
( 49 )
'house, where Leopold joined us, and a torch was given
:to him. We walked round the whole house, preceded
by Ross playing the pipes, going down the steps of the
terrace. Louise and Leopold went first, then came
Janie Ely and I, followed by every one carrying torches,
which had a very pretty effect. After this a bonfire was
made of all the torches, close to the house, and they
danced reels whilst Ross played the pipes.
( 5 )
VISIT TO FLOORS AND THE SCOTCH BORDER
COUNTRY, AUGUST 20, 1867.
Tuesday, August 20, 1867.
At ten o'clock I left Windsor (those night departures
are always sad) with Louise, Leopold, and Baby (Beatrice);
Lenchen, Christian, and their little baby boy meeting us
at the station. Jane Churchill, Harriet Phipps, the two
governesses, Sir Thomas Biddulph, Lord Charles Fitz-
Roy, Colonel G. Gordon, Mr. Duckworth, and Dr. Jenner
were in attendance. I had been much annoyed to hear
just before dinner that our saloon carriage could not go
under some tunnel or arch beyond Carlisle, and that I
must get out and change carriages there.
Wednesday, August 21.
The railway carriage swung a good deal, and it was i
very hot, so that I did not get much sleep. At half-past
seven I was woke up to dress and hurry out at Carlisle,
which we did at a quarter to eight. Here in the station
we had some breakfast, and waited an hour till our car-
riage was taken off and another put on (which they have
since found out was quite unnecessary!) The morning,
which had been gloomy, cleared and became very fine,
and we went on along such a pretty line through a very
pretty country, through Eskdah and past Netherly, as far
as Riddings, and then leaving the Esk entered Liddes-
dale, the railway running along the Liddel Water to
Riccarton station, where we stopped for a moment. We
next came along the Slitrig Water to Hawick, where we
went slowly, which the people had begged us to do, and
where were great crowds. Here we entered Teviotdale
and descended it, entering the valley of the Tweed at Si.
BosweWs. Between St. BoswelFs and Kelso at Roxburgh
station, we crossed the Teviot again. We passed close
under the Eildon Hills, three high points rising from the
background. The country is extremely picturesque,
valleys with fine trees and streams, intermingled with
great cultivation. Only after half-past eleven did we
reach Kelso station, which was very prettily decorated,
and where were standing the Duke and Duchess of Rox-
burgh e, Lord Bowmont, the Duke of Buccleuch, and
Lord C. Ker, as well as General Hamilton, commanding
the forces in Scotland. AVe got out at once. I embraced
the dear Duchess, and shook hands with the two Dukes,
and then at once entered the carriage (mine) with
Lenchen, Louise, and the Duchess ; Beatrice, Leopold,
and Christian going in the second, and the others fol-
lowing in other carriages.
The morning beautiful and very mild. AA 7 e drove
through the small suburb of Maxwell Heugh, down into
the town of Kelso, and over the bridge which commands
a beautiful view of the broad stream of the Tweed and of
the Park of Floors, with the fine house itself. Everywhere
decorations, and great and most enthusiastic crowds. The
little town of Kelso is very picturesque, and there were
triumphal arches, and no end of pretty mottoes, and every
house was decorated with flowers and flags. Fifty ladies
dressed in white strewed flowers as we passed. Volunteers
E 2
( 52 )
were out and bands playing. At the Market Place the
carriage stopped ; an address was presented, not read ;
and a little girl was held up to give me an enormous
bouquet. Immense and most enthusiastic cheering. We
then drove on, amidst continued crowds and hearty cheers,
up to the very park gates, where the old Sheriff, eighty-
five years old, was presented. The park is remarkably fine,
with the approach under splendid beech, sycamore, and
oak trees. The house very handsome, built originally by
Sir John Vanbrugh in 1718, but much improved by the
present Duke. You drive under a large porch, and then
go up a flight of steps to the hall. The Duke's band was
stationed outside. Mr. and Lady Charlotte Russell, Mr.
Suttie, and Lady Charles Ker were in the hall. The
Duchess took us into the library, where the Duke of
Buccleuch joined us, and, after waiting a little while, we
had breakfast (ourselves alone) in the really splendid
dining-room adjoining, at ten minutes past twelve. This
over, the Duchess showed us to our rooms upstairs. I had
three that were very comfortable, opening one into the
other ; a sitting-room, dressing-room, and the largest of
the three, the bedroom, simple, with pretty chintz, but
very elegant, nice and comfortable. The children were
close at hand. But the feeling of loneliness when I saw
no room for my darling, and felt I was indeed alone and
a widow, overcame me very sadly ! It was the first time
I had gone in this way on a visit (like as in former times),
and I thought so much of all dearest Albert would have
done and said, and how he would have wandered about
everywhere, admired everything, looked at everything
and now ! Oh ! must it ever, ever be so ?
At half-past two lunched (as at home) in the fine
dining-room. A lovely day. The view from the windows
beautiful, The distant Cheviot range with a great deal of
( 53 )
wood, Kelso embosomed in rich woods, with the bridge,
and the Tiueed flowing beneath natural grass terraces
which go down to it. Very fine. It reminded me a little
of the view from the fhoenix Park near Dublin.
At half-past five walked out with Lenchen and the
kind Duchess to a spot where I planted a tree,* and then
we walked on to the flower-garden,, where there are a
number of very fine hot-houses, and took tea in a pretty
little room adjoining them, which is entirely tiled. After
this we took a pleasant drive in the fine park, which is
full of splendid timber, along the Tweed, and below the
ruins of the celebrated old Castle of Roxburgh, of which
there is very little remaining. It is on a high eminence ;
the Tweed and Teviot are on either side of it, so that the
position is remarkably strong. It stood many a siege, and
was frequently taken by the English and retaken by the
Scotch. Scotch and even English kings, amongst them
Edward III., held their Court there.
We came home at eight. The Duke and Duchess
dined with us, and after dinner we watched the illumina-
tions and many bonfires from the library, and afterwards
went for a moment into the drawing-room to see the ladies
and gentlemen, after which I went up to my room, where
I sat and rested, feeling tired and only able to read the
newspapers.
Thursday, August 22.
A fine morning, though rather hazy. The night and
moonlight had been beautiful. Breakfasted with our
family in the breakfast-room. At twenty minutes to
eleven went and sat out under some trees on the lawn
* The gardener, Hector Rose, became head gardener at
Windsor in the spring of 1868, and died, alas ! June 5, 1872, after
having filled his situation admirably.
near the house writing, where I was quite quiet and
undisturbed, and remained till half-past twelve, resting,
reading, etc. Immediately after luncheon started in two
carriages, the Duchess and our two daughters with me ;
Christian, the Duke, Lady Charlotte Russell, and Lord
Charles Fitz-Roy in the second carriage (with post-horses).
We had the Duke's horses as far as Ravenswood. We
drove through Kelso, which was full of people, crossed the
Tweed and Temot (where the waters join), and passed
below the old Castle of Roxburgh. The country is very
pretty, hilly, wooded, and cultivated. Not long after we
started, the second carriage disappeared, and we waited
for it. It seems that, at the first hill they came to, the
wheelers would not hold up. So we stopped (and this
delayed us some time), the leaders replaced the wheelers,
and they came on with a pair. Then we drove up to St.
BosweU's Green, with the three fine Eildon hills before us
which are said to have been divided by Michael Scott,
the wizard seeing Mertoun, my excellent Lord Polwarth's
place, on the other side of the road. Alas ! he died only
last Friday from a second stroke, the first of which seized
him in February ; and now, when he had intended to be
at the head of the volunteers who received me at Kelso,
he is lying dead at his house which we passed so near ! It
lies low, and quite in among the trees. I lament him
deeply and sincerely, having liked him very much, as did
my dearest Albert also, ever since we knew him in 1858.
We changed horses at Ravensivood, or old Melrose
(where I had my own), having caught a glimpse of where
Dryburgh Abbey is, though the railway almost hides it.
The Duke of Buccleuch met us there, and rode the whole
way. Everywhere, wherever there were dwellings, there
was the kindest welcome, and triumphal arches were
erected. We went by the side of the Eildon Hills, past
( 55 )
an immense railway viaduct, and nothing could be prettier
than the road. The position of Melrose is most pictu-
resque, surrounded by woods and hills. The little village,
or rather town, of Newstead, which we passed through just
before coming to Melrose, is very narrow and steep. We
drove straight up to the Abbey through the grounds of the
Duke of Buccleuch's agent, and got out and walked about
the ruins, which are indeed very fine, and some of the ar-
chitecture and carving in beautiful preservation. David I.,
who is described as a " sair Saint," originally built it, but
the Abbey, the ruins of which are now standing, was built
in the fifteenth century. We saw where, under the high
altar, Robert Bruce's heart is supposed to be buried ;
also the tomb of Alexander II., and of the celebrated
wizard, Michael Scott. Reference is made to the former
in some lines of Sir Walter Scott's in the " Lay of the Last
Minstrel," which describes this Border country :
They sat them down on a marble stone ;
A Scottish monarch slept below.
And then when Deloraine takes the book from the dead
wizard's hand, it says
He thought, as he took it, the dead man frowned.
Most truly does Walter Scott say
If thou wouldst view fair Melrose aright,
Go visit it by the pale moonlight.
It looks very ghostlike, and reminds me a little of
Holyrood Chapel. We walked in the churchyard to look
at the exterior of the Abbey, and then re-entered our
carriages and drove through the densely crowded streets.
Great enthusiasm and hearty affectionate loyalty. Many
decorations. A number of people from Galashiels, and
even from the North of England, had come into the
( 56 )
town and swelled the crowd ; many also had spread
themselves along the outskirts. We took the other side
of the valley returning, and saw Galashiels, very prettily
situated, a flourishing town famous for its tweeds and
shawls ; the men are called the " braw lads of Gala
Water."
Another twenty minutes or half-hour brought us to
Abbotsford) the well-known residence of Sir Walter Scott.
It lies low and looks rather gloomy. Mr. Hope Scott
and Lady Victoria* (my god-daughter and sister to the
present Duke of Norfolk) with their children, the young
Duke of Norfolk, and some other relations, received us.
Mr. Hope Scott married first Miss Lockhart, the last
surviving grandchild of Sir Walter Scott, and she died
leaving only one daughter, a pretty girl of eleven, to
whom this place will go, and who is the only surviving
descendant of Sir Walter. They showed us the part of
the house in which Sir Walter lived, and all his rooms
his drawing-room with the same furniture and carpet, the
library where we saw his MS. of " Ivanhoe," and several
others of his novels and poems in a beautiful hand-
writing with hardly any erasures, and other relics which
Sir Walter had himself collected. Then his study, a
small dark room, with a little turret in which is a bust in
bronze, done from a cast taken after death, of Sir Walter.
In the study we saw his journal, in which Mr. Hope
Scott asked me to write my name (which I felt it to be a
presumption in me to do), as also the others.
We went through some passages into two or three]
rooms where were collected fine specimens of old armour,
etc., and where in a glass case are Sir Walter's last
clothes. We ended by going into the dining-room, in
which Sir Walter Scott died, where we took tea. . . .
* She died in 1870.
( 57 )
We left at twenty minutes to seven very late. It
rained a little, but soon ceased. We recrossed the
Tweed, and went by Gattonside to Leaderfoot Bridge.
Here we were met by the Berwickshire Volunteers,
commanded by Lord Binning (Lord Haddington's son),
who as Deputy Lieutenant rode a long way with us.
Here was a steep hill, and the road surrounded by trees.
We passed soon after through Gladswood, the property
of Mr. Meiklam, at whose house-door we stopped, and
he and Mrs. Meiklam were presented, and their daughter
gave me a nosegay. Just after this we entered Berwick-
shire. Changing horses and leaving this place, going
over Gateheugh) we came upon a splendid view, over-
looking a great extent of country, with a glen deep
below the road, richly wooded, the river at the bottom,
and hills in the distance ; but unfortunately the " gloam-
ing"* was already commencing at least, the sun was
gone down, and the evening was grey and dull, though
very mild. We passed Bemersyde, which is eventually
to belong to Alfred's Equerry, Mr. Haig,f and through
the village of Mertoun, behind the park ; and it was
striking to see the good feeling shown by the people,
who neither displayed any decorations nor cheered,
though they were out and bowed, as their excellent
master, Lord Polwarth, was lying dead in his house.
It was nearly dark by this time, but we got well and
safely home by ten minutes to nine. The Duke of
Buccleuch rode with us some way beyond Gladswood.
We did not come through Kelso on our way back. In
passing Mertoun we left the old tower of Smailholm to
the left, the scene of the " Eve of St. John." We only
sat down to dinner at half-past nine, and I own I was
* The Scotch word for " twilight."
f He succeeded to the property in 1878.
( 5S )
very tired. The Duke of Buccleuch was only able to
come when dinner was half over. Besides him the
Duke and Duchess of Roxburghe, Lord Bowmont, Lady
Charles Ker, and Mr. Suttie made the party at dinner.
Lady Susan was prevented by indisposition from being
there. Nobody could be kinder, or more discreet, or
more anxious that I should be undisturbed when at
home, than the Duke and Duchess. I only stopped a
few minutes downstairs after dinner, and then went up
to my room, but it was then nearly eleven. The others
went into the drawing-room to meet some of the
neighbours.
Friday, August 23.
A dull morning, very close, with a little inclination
to rain, though only for a short time. Breakfast as
yesterday. At twenty minutes to eleven we started : I
with our daughters and the Duchess ; Christian with
dear Beatrice, the Duke of Marlborough (the Minister in
attendance), and Lady Susan Melville, in the second
carriage ; and the Duke of Roxburghe, Lord Charles
Fitz-Roy, Sir Thomas Biddulph, in the third, with
Colonel Gordon and Dr. Jenner on the box.* We
proceeded through Kelso, which was very full, and the
people most loyal ; by the village of Heiton, prettily
decorated with an arch (two young girls dressed in white
threw nosegays), and up the rivers Teviot and fed, which
flow through charming valleys. The town of Jedburgh is
very prettily situated, and is about the same size as Kelso,
only without its large shops. It is, however, the capital
of the county. It was very crowded, and very prettily
decorated. The town is full of historical recollections.
* Brown and the sergeant footman, Collins, were (as usual) on
the seat behind my carriage.
( 59 )
King Malcolm IV. died there ; William the Lion and
Alexander II. resided there ; Alexander III. married his
second wife, Joletta, daughter of the Comte de Dreux,
there ; and Queen Mary was the last sovereign who
came to administer severe justice. The Duchess pointed
out to me a house up a side street in the town where
Queen Mary had lived and been ill with fever. In the
square an address was presented, just as at Kelso, and
then we went on down a steep hill, having a very good
view of the old Abbey, as curious in its way as Melrose,
and also founded by David I. There is a very fine
ruined abbey in Kelso also.
There were four pretty triumphal arches; one with
two very well chosen inscriptions, viz., on one side
" Freedom makes all men to have lyking," and on the
other side " The love of all thy people comfort thee."
We went on through a beautiful wooded valley up
in the bank of which, in the red stone, are caves
in which the Covenanters were hid. We passed Lord
Cranstoun's place, Crailing, and then turned, and close
before the town we turned into Jed Forest up an inter-
minable hill, which was very trying to the horses and the
postilions and returning through the grounds of Hart-
rigge, the late Lord Campbell's, now occupied by a Mr.
Gordon.
We then returned by the same road we came, pass-
ing Kirkbank, belonging to the Duke of Buccleuch,
where his late brother, Lord John Scott, used to live.
Here the horses were watered. We stopped for a few
minutes, and the Duke of Buccleuch, who had ridden
with us the greater part of the way, into JedburgJi and
back to this place, took leave.
We only got home near three o'clock. We lunched
at once, and then I rested. Only at half-past six did I
( 60 )
go out with Lenchen and the good Duchess, and walked
with them to the flower-garden, where, as it began to
rain, we took tea in the small room there. Lenchen
walked back with the Duchess, who returned to me, and
I sat out a little while with her, and then walked back to
the house. It was a very oppressive evening.
At half-past eight we dined. The Duke and Duchess,
Mr. and Lady Charlotte Russell, and Lord Charles Kei
dined. Went upstairs and wrote. At ten minutes ta
eleven we left Floors, where I had been most kindly re-<
ceived, and had been very comfortable and enjoyed all
I saw, and felt much all the kindness of high and low,
The carriages were open, and the night very warm and
starlight. There were lamps all along the drive in the
Park; the bridge was illuminated, and so was the whole
town, through which we went at a foot's pace. It was
densely crowded, the square especially, and the people
very enthusiastic. The dear Duchess went with us to th(
station, whither the Duke and his sons had preceded ui
with the others. It was a very pretty sight. The Fr%
Kirk, a pretty building, was lit up with red light, whict
almost gave it the appearance of being on fire. We tool
leave of the dear Duchess and the Duke, got into ou
railway carriage, and started at once.
Saturday, August 24.
We passed through Edinburgh. At eight A.M. we wer
at Ballater. Some coffee and tea were handed in to us
before we left the train and got into our carriages.
A fine and very mild morning, the heather hardly ouu|
but all very green; and at ten minutes to nine we were at
our dear Balmoral,
-1S75
VISIT TO GLENFIDDICH.
I Tuesday, September 24, 1867.
A bright morning, but a fearful gale blowing. The
maids, Emilie and Annie and Lady Churchill's maid,
; with Ross and the luggage, started at a little past seven.
Breakfasted at a quarter past nine ; and at ten, taking
! leave of Lenchen, darling Beatrice, and the boys, and
iChristian, started with Louise and Jane Churchill Brown,
as usual, on the box. Sir Thomas Biddulph had gone on
at eight. We drove up by Alt Craichie on to Gairnshiel,
and anything like the wind I cannot describe. It blew
through everything. Just beyond Gairnshiel we took
another change of my own horses, which took us up that
very steep hill called GlaschoiL Here we met the luggage
with Blake,* which had stuck completely, but was going
on with the help of four cart or farm horses, and then we
i went on by Tornahoish and Cock Brigg, where we crossed
ithe Don. At the small inn at the foot of the hill, called
'Bridge End, we found the maids' carriage halting. They
were waiting for the luggage, but we sent them on. Our
postilions next took a wrong road, and we had to get out
no enable them to turn. Then came a very steep hill, the
'beginning of very wild and really grand scenery. Louise
and Jane Churchill walked up to the top of this hill, and
* A footman, now one of the Pages of the Presence.
then we went down another very steep one, seeing a fear-
fully long ascent before us. We changed horses, and took
a pair of post-horses here. Steep green hills with a deep
ravine on our left as we went up, and then down again,
this fearful hill surely three miles in length called Lecht.
At the bottom we entered a glen, or rather pass, very wild,
and the road extremely bad, with rapid turnings. Near
this there are iron mines belonging to the Duke of Rich-
mond. Here we met a drove of very fine Highland cattle
grazing. Turning out of this glen we came into much
more cultivated land with farms and trees, skirted by hills
in the distance all very clear, as the views had been all
along. By half-past one we came close by Tomintoul,
which lies very prettily amongst the trees, hills, and fields ;
then leaving it to our left, we went on about a mile and a
half beyond the town ; and here by the roadside, on some
grass below a heathery bank, at about a quarter-past two,
we took our luncheon, and walked a little. The Duke
of Richmond's keeper, Lindsay by name, joined us here
and rode before us. We changed horses (again a pair)
and drove on, entering Glen Livet through the small vil-
lage of Knockandhu Blairfindy Castle on the left, just
behind the celebrated Glenlivet Distillery. We drove on
six miles ; pretty country all along, distant high hills and
richly cultivated land, with houses and cottages dotted
about. At Tomnavoulin, a farm, not far from a bridge,
we met Sir Thomas Biddulph (who had driven on in a
dogcart) and our ponies. Though the wind had gone
down a good deal, there was quite enough to make it
disagreeable and fatiguing, and so we decided to drive,
and Sir Thomas said he would ride across with the ponies
and meet the Duke, while his head keeper was to come
on the box with Brown and show us the way (Grant did
not go with us this time). We drove on for an hour and
( 63 )
inore, having entered Glen Rinnes shortly after Tomna-
widin, with the hills of Ben Rinnes on the left. There
5(rere fine large fields of turnips, pretty hills and dales,
with wood, and distant high hills, but nothing grand.
The day became duller, and the mist hung over the hills ;
and just as we sat down by the roadside on a heathery
bank, where there is a very pretty view of Gknlivet, to take
Our tea, it began to rain, and continued doing so for the
remainder of the evening. Lindsay, the head keeper,
fetched a kettle of boiling water from a neighbouring farm-
house. About two miles beyond this we came through
Dufftown a small place with a long steep street, very
like Grantown and then turned abruptly to the right
past Auchindoun, leaving a pretty glen to the left. Three
miles more brought us to a lodge and gate, which was
the entrance of Glenfiddich. Here you go quite into the
hills. The glen is very narrow, with the Fiddich flowing
below, green hills rising on either side with birch trees grow-
ing on them, much like at Inchrory, only narrower. We saw.
deer on the tops of the hills close by. The carriage-road
a very good one winds along for nearly three miles,
when you come suddenly upon the lodge, the position of
which reminds me very much of Corn Dawn* only that
the glen is narrower and the hills just round it steeper.
It is along shooting lodge, covering a good deal of ground,
but only one story high. We reached it at half-past six,
and it was nearly dark. Sir Thomas received us, but he
had missed the Duke ! A message had, however, at once
been sent after him. On entering the house there is one
long, low passage, at the end of which, with three windows,
taking in the whole of each side and looking three differ-
ent ways, is the drawing-room, where tea was prepared.
We went along the passage to our rooms, which were all
* Near Balmoral, not far from Loch Bulig,
( 64 )
in a row. Another long passage, a little beyond the hall
door, went the other way at right angles with the first,
and along that were offices and servants' bedrooms. Next
to the drawing-room came the dining-room, then Sir
Thomas Biddulph's room, then the Duke's, then Brown's
and Ross's (in one), then Louise's, then mine, thenEmilie's
and Annie's (in one), then, a little further back, Jane
Churchill's and her maid's all very comfortably and
conveniently together. But though our maids had arrived,
not a bit of luggage. We waited and waited till dinner-
time, but nothing came. So we ladies (for Sir Thomas
had wisely brought some things with him) had to go to
dinner in our riding-skirts, and just as we were. I, having
no cap, had to put on a black lace veil of Emilie's, which
she arranged as a coiffure. I had been writing and resting
before dinner. The Duke (who remained at Glenfiddicli)
and Sir Thomas dined with us ladies.
None of the maids or servants had any change of
clothing. Dinner over, I went with Louise and Jane to
the drawing-room, which was given me as my sitting-
room, and Jane read. While at dinner at half- past nine,
Ross told us that Blake, the footman, had arrived with
some of the smaller things, but none of the most neces-
sary no clothes, etc. The break with the luggage had
finally broken down at Tomintonl; from thence Blake
had gone with a cart to Dufftown, where he had got a small
break, and brought the light things on, but the heavier
luggage was coming in a cart, and they hoped would be
here by twelve o'clock. At first it seemed as if no horses
were to be had, and it was only with the greatest difficulty
that some were at last obtained. Louise and Jane
Churchill left me at near eleven o'clock.
I sat up writing and waiting for this luggage. A man
was sent out on a pony with a lantern in search of it, and
remained writing till a quarter-past twelve, when,
feeling very tired, I lay down on the sofa, and Brown
(who was indefatigable) went out himself to look for it.
At one, he came back, saying nothing was to be seen or
heard of this luckless luggage, and urged my going to
bed. My maids had unfortunately not thought of bring-
ing anything with them, and I disliked the idea of going to
bed without any of the necessary toilette. However, some
arrangements were made which were very uncomfortable;
and after two I got into bed, but had very little sleep
at first; finally fatigue got the better of discomfort, and
after three I fell asleep.
Wednesday, September 25.
Slept soundly till half-past seven, and heard that the
luggage had only arrived at half-past four in the morning.
Breakfasted with Louise, who made my coffee beautifully
with Brown, who waited at breakfast, Ross coming in and
out with what had to be carried. It rained soon after
I got up, and continued raining till near eleven. I read
and wrote, etc. At half-past eleven, it having cleared, I
rode up the small narrow glen, down which flows a
" burnie " (called the Garden Burn\ the banks covered
with fern and juniper, heather and birch, etc., past the
kitchen-garden. Louise walked with me. Went up
nearly to the top and walked down it again, then on to
the stables, which are at a small distance from the house,
where I saw an old underkeeper, P. Stewart by name,
i seventy-four years old, with a Peninsular and Waterloo
medal, who had been in the pand Highlanders, and was
a great favourite of the late Duke's. Home by twenty
minutes to one. The day became very fine and warm.
Lunched in my own room with Louise at the same small
F
( 66 )
table at which we had breakfasted, Ross and the Duke's
piper playing outside the window.
After luncheon rode (on Sultan, as this morning) with
Louise and Jane Churchill, the Duke walking (and Jane
also part of the way), down to the end of Glenfiddicli;
turning then to the left for Bridgehaugh (a ford), and
going on round the hill of Ben Main, We first went
along the road and then on the heather " squinting " the
hill hard and good ground, but disagreeable from the
heather being so deep that you did not see where you
were going the Duke's forester leading the way, and so
fast that Brown led me on at his full speed, and we dis-
tanced the others entirely. At five we got to the edge
of a small ravine, from whence we had a fine view of the
old ruined castle of Achendown, which formerly belonged
to the old Lords Huntly. Here we took our tea, and
then rode home by another and a shorter way not a bad
road, but on the steeper side of the hill, and quite on the
slant, which is not agreeable. We came down at the
ford, and rode back as we went out, getting home at
seven. A very fine evening. It was very nearly dark
when we reached home. I was very tired ; I am no
longer equal to much fatigue.
Thursday, September 26.
Slept very well and was much rested. At half-past
twelve I started with Louise on ponies (I on Sultan), and
Jane Churchill, the Duke of Richmond, and Sir Thomas
walking, rode past the stables on a good road, and then
turned to the right and went up Glenfiddich for about
four miles. The scenery is not grand, but pretty; an
open valley with green and not very high hills, some
birches, and a great deal of fern and juniper. After
about three miles the glen narrows and is extremely
pretty; a narrow steep path overhanging a burn leads to
( 67 )
a cave, which the Duke said went a long way under the
hill. It is called the Elf House. There is a small space
of level ground, and a sort of seat arranged with stones,
on which Louise and I sat; and here we all lunched, and
then tried to sketch. But I could make nothing of the
cave, and therefore scrambled up part of the hill with
great trouble, and tried again but equally unsuccessfully,
and had to be helped down, as I had been helped up, by
Brown. We were here nearly an hour, and then, after
walking down the steep path, we got on our ponies and
rode up to the left, another very steep and narrow path,
for a short while on the brink of a steep high bank with
the Fiddich below. We emerged from this ravine and
came upon moors in the hills (the whole of this is " the
forest "), and rode on a mile and a half till near the head
of the Livet on the right of the Sowie, a high, bare,
heathery, mossy hill ; Cairn-ta-Bruar to the left. Here
we had a fine view of Ben Aven and Ben-na-Bourd, and
this was the very way we should have ridden from
Tomnavoulin. We had a slight sprinkling of rain, but
very little at this time. We saw eight stags together at a
distance. Oh! had dearest Albert been here with his
rifle! We rode on and back till we came to a sheltered
place near the burnside, about one mile and three-
quarters from Glenfiddich Lodge, where one of the Duke's
keepers had prepared a fire and got a kettle boiling, and
here we took our tea. Afterwards I sketched, but we
were surrounded by a perfect cloud of midges which bit
me dreadfully. The gentlemen left us, after tea, and
walked home. I walked a little while, and then rode
back by a quarter to seven. A beautiful mild evening,
the sky a lovely colour. Dear good Sharp* was with us
and out each day, and so affectionate.
* A favourite collie of mine.
F 2
( 68 )
A. Thomson, S. Forbes, Kennedy, and J. Stewart, the
latter with the ponies, as well as the Duke's forester
Lindsay, were out with us. Dinner as yesterday. Jane
Churchill finished reading " Pride and Prejudice " to us
after dinner. A very clear starlight night.
( 69 )
\\c sat down and took our luncheon, and sketched. Sir
Thomas drove on, and we saw him again near the top of
the hills, while we began the first very steep ascent, which
seemed almost beyond the horses' power ; but though only
a pair, they got us up admirably. Brown walked by the
carriage all the time, being very anxious about the road.
Then down ever so long, having a splendid view of the
hills the road being dreadfully rough and bad besides
then up again, and when it came to that very steep winding
liill going down to Bridge End> we got out and walked to
the bottom and across the ford at Tornahoish over a foot-
bridge. The view here was splendid, all the hills rising
around, with the old Castle of Corgarff, and the river Don
with the valley of the Don-side in the foreground.
Here we found our horses and drove on. It was
raining at this time (about four), and it rained several
times during the evening. We drove on, and after we
passed Tornahoish two or three miles, and had got up the
long hill, we found a sort of hole in the bank (such as are
often met with where gravel and stones have been taken
out), where we took our tea. The kettle took some time
boiling, as we had only cold water from the burn. When
we go out only for the afternoon we take two bottles filled
with hot water, which saves much time. Poor Louise had
been suffering from toothache all the time. We got
safely home at ten minutes past seven o'clock.
UNVEILING OF THE PRINCE'S STATUE AT
BALMORAL.
Tuesday, October 15, 1867.
Our blessed Engagement Day ! A dear and sacred
day already twenty eight years ago. How I ever bless .
it ! A wet morning most annoying and provoking !
At a quarter-past eleven in this distressing rain, which
twice had given hopes of ceasing, I, with all the family
and Janie Ely, drove to the spot, just above Middhtoris
Lodge, where were assembled all the servants and tenants,
and the detachment of the 93rd Highlanders drawn up
opposite, just behind the Statue. I and the children
stood just in front of the Statue, which was covered. A
verse of the looth Psalm was sung, and Mr. Taylor then
stepped forward and offered up a beautiful prayer (in
pelting rain at that moment), after which the order was
given to uncover the Statue ; but (as happened at Aber-
deen) the covering caught, and it was a little while before it
could be loosened from the shoulder.
The soldiers presented arms, and the pipes played, as
we gazed on the dear noble figure of my beloved one, who
used to be with us here in the prime of beauty, goodness,
and strength.
Then Dr. Robertson stepped forward, and made a
very pretty little speech in the name of the servants and
tenants, thanking me for the gift of the Statue. He
spoke remarkably well. This was followed by the soldiers
firing a. feu dejoie ; then all cheered, and the whole con-
cluded by (l God save the Queen " being sung extremely
well.
FIRST VISIT TO THE GLASSALT SHIEL.
A HOUSE-WARMING.
Thursday, October i, 1868.
At nearly four o'clock left with Louise and Jane
Churchill for the Glassalt Shiel. It was a beautiful even-
ing, clear and frosty. We drove by Birkhall and the Linn
of Muich, where we stopped to take tea ; we had just
finished when Arthur arrived from Ballater with Grant,
who had gone to meet him there. He had travelled straight
from Geneva, and looked rather tired, having besides
had a bad passage. After walking a little we drove on,
Arthur getting into the carriage with us, and Grant going
with Brown on the box. We arrived at half-past six at
the Glassalt Shiel, which looked so cheerful and comfort-
able, all lit up, and the rooms so cozy and nice. There
is a wonderful deal of room in the compact little house.
A good staircase (the only one) leads to the upper floor,
where are the rooms for Louise, Jane Churchill, her maid,
and Arthur, in one passage ; out of this there is another,
where are three rooms for Brown, the cook, and another
servant ; in one of these Grant and Ross slept, and C.
Thomson * in the other. Below are my sitting-room, bed-
* One of eight brothers (one died in 1865), three of whom, be-
sides himself, are in my service Andrew (the eldest), a livery porter ;
John, who has charge of the roads on my property at Balmoral, and
( 73 )
room, and my maids' room ; and on the other side of our
little hall the dining-room : then a nice kitchen, small
steward's room, store-closet, and another small room
where two menservants slept. The small passage near
my bedroom shuts off the rest, and makes it quite private
and quiet. Good stables, and the keeper's cottage, where
our gillies sleep, just outside at the back.
We dined at about half-past eight in the small dining-
room. This over, after waiting for a little while in my
sitting-room, Brown came to say all the servants were
ready for the house-warming, and at twenty minutes to
ten we went into the little dining-room, which had been
cleared, and where all the servants were assembled, viz.,
my second dresser, * C. Wilmore, Brown, Grant, Ross
(who played), Hollis (the cook), Lady Churchill's maid,
Maxted, C. and A. Thomson, Blake (the footman), the
two housemaids, Kennedy, J. Stewart (the stableman),
and the policeman (who only comes to do duty outside
at night). We made nineteen altogether. Five animated
reels were danced, in which all (but myself) joined.
After the first reel " whisky-toddy " was brought round
for every one, and Brown begged I would drink to the
"fire-kindling." Then Grant made a little speech, with
an allusion to the wild place we were in, and concluding
with a wish " that our Royal Mistress, our good Queen,"
should "live long." This was followed by cheers given
out by Ross in regular Highland style, and all drank my
Tom, the youngest of the family. Charlie entered my service in
1 86 1 in the stables, became a footman a year or two later, and is
now (1883), for a year past, Page of the Presence. There are
three sisters. They are an excellent family, and their father is
the highly respected postmaster at Crathie. One sister married
Donald Stewart, the head keeper, and another brother is in the
service of the Duke of Edinburgh.
* She was in my service for thirteen years, and left in 1881.
( 74 )
health. The merry pretty little ball ended at a quarter-
past eleven. The men, however, went on singing in the
steward's room for some time, and all were very happy,
but I heard nothing, as the little passage near my bed-
room shuts everything off.
Sad thoughts filled my heart both before dinner and
when I was alone and retired to rest. I thought of the
happy past and my darling husband, whom I fancied I
must see, and who always wished to build here, in this
favourite wild spot, quite in amidst the hills. At Altna-
giuthasach I could not have lived again now alone. It
is far better to have built a totally new house ; but then
the sad thought struck me that it was the first Widow's
house, not built by him or hallowed by his memory. But
I am sure his blessing does rest on it, and on those who
live in it.
( 75
"JUICING THE SHEEP," 1868.
Thursday, October 21.
At a quarter to twelve I drove off with Louise and
Leopold in the waggonette up to near the " Bush " (the
residence of William Brown,* the farmer) to see them
'juice the sheep." This is a practice pursued all over
the Highlands before the sheep are sent down to the low
country for the winter. It is done to preserve the wool.
Not far from the burnside, where there are a few hillocks,
was a pen in which the sheep were placed, and then, just
outside it, a large sort of trough filled with liquid tobacco
and soap, and into this the sheep were dipped one after
the other ; one man (James Brown,f my shepherd, the
elder brother, who came up on purpose to help) took the
sheep one by one out of the pen and turned them on
their backs ; and then William and he, holding them by
their legs, dipped them well in, after which they were let
into another pen into which this trough opened, and here
they had to remain to dry. To the left, a little lower
down, was a cauldron boiling over a fire and containing
the tobacco with water and soap ; this was then emptied
into a tub, from which it was transferred into the trough.
A very rosy-faced lassie, with a plaid over her head, was
* Brown's fourth brother,
f Brown's eldest brother.
( 76 )
superintending this part of the work, and helped to fetch
the water from the burn, while children and many collie
dogs were grouped about, and several men and shepherds
were helping. It was a very curious and picturesque
sight.
( 77 )
A HIGHLAND "KIRSTNIN" (CHRISTENING),
1868.
Sunday, October 24.
At a quarter to four I drove, with Louise, Beatrice,
and Lady Ely, to John Thomson the wood forester's
house for the christening of their child, three weeks old.
Here, in their little sitting-room, in front of the window,
stood a table covered with a white cloth, on which was
placed a basin with water, a bible, and a paper with the
certificate of the child's birth.
We stood on one side, and John Thomson m his
Highland dress next the minister, who was opposite me
at the head of the table. Barbara, his wife, stood next
to him, with the baby in her arms, and then the old
Thomsons and their unmarried daughter, the Donald
Stewarts, Grants, and Victoria, Morgan and sister, and
Brown.
Dr. Taylor (who wore his gown) then began with an
address and prayer, giving thanks " for a living mother
and a living child," after which followed another prayer;
he then read a few passages from Scripture, after which
came the usual questions which he addressed to the
father, and to which he bowed assent. Then the minister
told him "Present your child for baptism." After this
the father took the child and held it while the minister
baptized it, sprinkling it with water, but not making the sign
of the cross, saying first to those present : " The child's
name is Victoria ; " and then to the child :
Victoria, I baptize thee in the name of the Father, and
of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost, One God blessed for
ever. Amen.
The Lord bless thee and keep thee ! The Lord make
His face to shine upon thee and be gracious unto thee !
The Lord lift up His countenance upon thee and give thee
peace !
The service was concluded with another short prayer
and the usual blessing. I thought it most appropriate,
touching, and impressive. I gave my present (a silver
mug) to the father, kissed the little baby, and then we all
drank to its health and that of its mother in whisky, which
was handed round with cakes. It was all so nicely done,
so simply, and yet with such dignity.
79 )
A SECOND CHRISTENING, 1868.
On Monday, November i, I drove down at a quarter
to four with Louise, Beatrice, Leopold (who was on the
box with Brown), and Lady Ely, to the Bush (William
Brown's) to witness the christening of his first child, just
a week old, which was to be called Albert. The service
was nearly the same, only two instead of three prayers, and
the young mother with the child, who was only a week
old, was seated by the fire, looking very nice, with the
baby on her lap. The old mother, Mrs. Brown, in her
white mutch, the three brothers, and a few neighbours
stood round the room. I gave my present. It was a
touching and impressive sight to see the young father
holding his child with an expression of so much devotion
and earnestness. On this occasion a dinner was given
by the father after we left, in which Dr. Taylor took part.
WIDOW GRANT, 1869.
On Sunday, August 22, 1869, I went to see old Mrs.
Grant, whom I was grieved to see sitting in her chair
supported by pillows, and her poor feet raised upon
cushions, very much altered in her face, and, I fear, dying
of dropsy.
On August 26 I again saw her, and gave her a shawl
and a pair of socks, and found the poor old soul in bed,
looking very weak and very ill, but bowing her head and
thanking me in her usual way. I took her hand and
held it.
On the 27th she died.
On the 28th I stopped at her cottage and went in with
Louise and Leopold. We found all so clean and tidy, but
all so silent. Mrs. Gordon, her daughter, was there,
having arrived just in time to spend the last evening and
night with her ; and then she lifted the sheet, and there
the poor old woman, whom we had known and seen from
the first here these twenty- one years, lay on a bier in her
shroud, but with her usual cap on, peaceful and little
altered, her dark skin taking away from the usual terrible
pallor of death. She had on the socks I gave her the day
before yesterday. She was in her eighty-ninth year,
VISIT TO INVERTROSSACHS, 1869.
Wednesday, September i, 1869.
We got up at half-past seven, breakfasted at eight, and at
lalf-past eight left Balmoral with Louise, Beatrice, and
[ane Churchill (Brown as always, unless I mention to the
:ontrary, on the box), for Ballater. A high and rather
:old wind, but very bright sun, dreadfully dusty. Colonel
Ponsonby met us at the railway station. Emilie Dittweiler
ind Annie Macdonald, Ocklee (for the two girls), Jane
Zhurchill's maid, Charlie Thomson, and the footman
Cannon, went with us : Blake, Spong with the luggage, A.
Fhomson, with Sharp (my faithful collie dog), and Annie
~k>rdon (housemaid), Kennedy, Arthur Grant, and Hiley
'the groom) with the ponies, all went yesterday, and three
:ooks came from London. We had a saloon carriage, but
not my own. It grew hot in the railway train. We stopped
it Aberdeen and the Bridge, of Dun, where Jane Churchill
ot into our carriage, and had luncheon with us ; but we
:ould have no one to help to pack and unpack it, which
.s now so comfortably arranged in my own railway carriage
where there is a communication with the attendants.
Stopping a moment at Cupar- Angus, we passed through
Perth, and had another short halt at Dunblane, where the
people crowded very much. Here we got a view of the
G
( S2 )
old Cathedral, and turned off to Callander, which we
reached at a quarter-past three. There was a very well-
behaved crowd at the quiet station. Mr. and Lady
Emily Macnaghten,* to whose house (which they had
most kindly lent us) we were going, and Sir Malcolm and
Lady Helen MacGregor (he is Miss MacGregor's nephew,
she Lady Emily Macnaghten's niece), received us there.
Their little girl gave me a nosegay. We at once got into
our celebrated sociable, which has been to the top of the
Furca in Switzerland, etc., and had been sent on before,
Colonel Ponsonby and Brown going on the box. We
drove off at once with post-horses through the small town
of Callander, which consists of one long street with very
few shops, and few good houses, but many poor ones.
Poor Kanne f (who was to have managed everything, but
had fallen ill) was still laid up there. We drove on, and,
after about three-quarters of a mile's drive, came to Loch
Vennachar, a fine lake about four miles long, with Hen
Venue and other high and beautiful mountains rising behind
and around it. The road is thickly wooded with oak, birch,
beech, mountain-ash, etc. The house stands extremely
well on a high eminence, overlooking the loch and sur-
rounded by trees, and you drive up through evergreens
and trees of all kinds. Half an hour brought us to the
door of the house, Invertrossaehs, which is small and
comfortable. At the entrance is a nice little hall in which
there is a small billiard table ; to the left, beyond that, a
very nice well-sized dining-room with one large window.
To the right of the hall is the drawing-room, very much
like the one at Invermark (Lord Dalhousie's) ; altogether
* She died in 1874.
f .My Director of Continental journeys, who had been ser
look at the house and to inake arrangements for my reception.
the house is in that style, but larger. The staircase is
almost opposite the hall-door, and there is a narrow pas-
sage which goes on to the left and right, along which are
Louise's, Baby's (Beatrice's), my sitting-room (a snug little
room), and my bedroom (very good size) ; and out of
that, two little rooms which I use as dressing- and bath-
rooms, and Emilie Dittweiler's. Further on, round a
corner as it were, beyond Louise's, are Lady Churchill's,
her maid's, and Colonel Ponsonby's rooms, all very fair-
sized and comfortable. Close to my dressing-rooms is a
staircase which goes upstairs to where Brown and our
other people live. The rooms are very comfortably and
simply furnished, and they have put down new carpets
everywhere. In the absence of poor Kanne, whom we
are so sorry for, Jungbluth, the cook, acts as steward,
and showed us over the rooms.
We took tea and rested a little, and at twenty minutes
to six drove out with the two girls (sweet Beatrice very
happy and very good, the first time she had been without
a governess) and Lady Churchill. We drove along the
loch, which has always to be done, as there is no road on
the Invertrossachs side further than Invertrossaehs itself,
and crossed over the bridge at Coilantogleford celebrated
in the " Lady of the Lake," then to the right down a
steep hill and over the bridge \sy'Jilmako& where there
are a few cottages and a turnpike, on through the Pass oj
Leny, which is now (like every other burn and river)
nearly dry, overhung by beautiful trees with very grand
hills, reminding me much of Switzerland from their
greenness, the rugged rocks, and the great amount of wood
which grows at their base and a good way up. It reminded
Louise and me very much of Pilatus with its meadows
and fine trees on the way to Hergessvyl. We went as far
( 84 )
as the beginning of Loch Lubnaig, a very fine wild, grand-
looking loch ; turning there and going back the same
way. The view of Loch Vennachar, with the beautiful
deep blue of Ben Venue and the other hills, was lovely.
We came in at half-past seven.
Darling Beatrice took her supper on coming in, but
she came and sat with us while we were at dinner for a
short while. Only four at dinner. We went out for a
moment afterwards. Very mild and starlight. Louise
went to bed. Jane read a little to me in the drawing-room,
but I went upstairs soon, as I was tired.
Thursday, September 2.
A very fine, bright, warm morning. We decided to
go on an expedition, but not to Loch Lomond, as we
should have to start so early. Breakfasted in the
drawing-room with Louise and Beatrice. Then writing,
etc. At twenty minutes to twelve I started in the sociable
with Louise, Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and Colonel
Ponsonby and Brown on the box, and drove (excellent
post-horses, always only a pair) to Callander, but turned
to the right short of it, and went on some little way. On
coming to the top of a hill we saw Ben Ledi, a splendid
hill ; to the north Ben Voirlich, and to the east the
heights of Uam Var, a pink heathery ridge of no great
elevation ; and in the distance, rising up from the
horizon, Dun Myat, and the Wallace Monument on the
Abbey Craig, near Stirling. We went across a moor, and
then soon passed Loch Ruskie, quite a small lake. The
country about here is rather lowland, but as we proceeded
it was extremely pretty, with very fine trees and corn-
fields, and harvesting going on ; and soon after, descend-
ing a hill, we came upon the Loch of " Menteith " (the
( 85 )
only loch in Scotland which is ever called lake). It
reminds one very much of Loch Kinnord near Ballater,
and very low blue and pink hills rise in the distance.
There are two or three islands in it ; in the large one,
Inchmahome, you perceive amongst the thick woods the
ruins of the ancient priory. Queen Mary lived there
once, and there are monuments of the Mcnteiths to be
seen on it. To the right we passed the ruin of Rednock
Castle, and to the left the gates of the Park of Rednock,
with very fine large trees, where Mr. Graham, the
proprietor, was standing. We went on and passed the
Clachan of Aberfoyle (renowned in Sir Walter Scott's
" Rob Roy "), and here the splendid scenery begins
high, rugged, and green hills (reminding me again of
Pi/atus), very fine large trees and beautiful pink heather,
interspersed with bracken, rocks, and underwood, in the
most lovely profusion, and Ben Lomond towering up
before us with its noble range. We went on perhaps a
quarter of a mile, and, it being then two o'clock, we got
out and lunched on the grass under an oak at the foot
of Craig More. It was very hot, the sun stinging, but
there were many light white clouds in the blue sky, which
gave the most beautiful effects of light and shade on
this marvellous colouring. After luncheon and walking
about a little, not finding any good view to sketch, we
got into the carriage (our horses had been changed), but
had not gone above a few yards when we came upon
Loch Ard, and a lovelier picture could not be seen.
Ben Lomond, blue and yellow, rose above the lower
hills, which were pink and purple with heather, and an
isthmus of green trees in front dividing it from the rest
of the loch. We got out and sketched. Only here and
there, far between, were some poor little cottages with
picturesque barefooted lasses and children to be seen.
( 86 )
All speak Gaelic here. Louise and I sat sketching for
half an hour, Beatrice running about merrily with Jane
Churchill while we drew. We then drove on, and
certainly one of the most lovely drives I can remember,
along Loch Ard, a fine long loch, with trees of all kinds
overhanging the road, heather making all pink ; bracken,
rocks, high hills of such a fine shape, and trees growing
up them as in Switzerland ; the road rough and bad,
with very steep bits of hill (but the post-horses went
remarkably well) overhanging the loch, which reminded
me very much of the drive along the Lake Zitg in
Switzerland. Altogether, the whole drive along Loch
Ard, then by the very small Loch Dow and the fine
Loch Chon, which is very long, was lovely. The heather
in full bloom, and of the richest kind, some almost of a
crimson colour, and growing in rich tufts along the road.
One can see, by the mounds or heaps of stone, all along
Loch Chon, where the Glasgow waterworks are carried,
but they have not disfigured the landscape.
Emerging from this road we came upon the Loch
Lomond Road, having a fine view of Loch Arklet, on the
banks of which Helen MacGregor is said to have been
born. The scene of our drive to-day is all described in
" Rob Roy." Loch Arklet lies like Loch Callater, only
that the hills are higher and more pointed. Leaving
this little loch to our left, in a few minutes we came
upon Loch Katrine, which was seen in its greatest
beauty in the fine evening light. Most lovely ! We
stopped at Stronachlachar, a small inn where people stay
for a night sometimes, and where they embark coming
from Loch Lomond and vice versa. As the small steamer
had not yet arrived, we had to wait for about a quarter
of an. hour. But there was no crowd, no trouble or
annoyance, and during the whole of our drive nothing
could be quieter or more agreeable. Hardly a creature
did we meet, and we passed merely a very few pretty
gentlemen's places, or very poor cottages with simple
women and barefooted long-haired lassies and children,
quiet and unassuming old men and labourers. This
solitude, the romance and wild loveliness of everything
here, the absence of hotels and beggars, the independent
simple people, who all speak Gaelic here, all make
beloved Scotland the proudest, finest country in the
world. Then there is that beautiful heather, which you
do not see elsewhere. I prefer it greatly to Switzer-
land^ magnificent and glorious as the scenery of that
country is.
It was about ten minutes past five when we went en
board the very clean little steamer "Rob Roy" the
very same we had been on under such different
circumstances in 1859 on the i4th of October, in
dreadful weather, thick mist and heavy rain, when my
beloved Husband and I opened the Glasgow Water-
works. We saw the spot and the cottage where we
lunched.
We took a turn and steamed a little way up the
bay called Glen Gyle, where there is a splendid glen
beautifully wooded, which is the country of the Mac-
Gregors, and where there is a house which belonged to
MacGregor of Glen Gyle, which, with the property, has
been bought by a rich Glasgow innkeeper of the same
clan. We turned and went on, and nothing could be
more beautiful than the loch, wooded all along the
banks. The rugged Ben Venue, so famed in the " Lady
of the Lake " (which we had with us as well as several
guide-books, of which we find Black's far the best), rises
majestically on the southern side of the lake, and
looking back you see the Alps of Arrochar^ which well
( 38 )
deserve the name, for they are quite pointed and most
beautiful ; their names are Ben Vean, Ben Voirlich, Ben
JEtm, and Ben Crash. Next came the well-known
''Silver Strand" ''Helen's Isle" which is most lovely,
and the narrow creek so beautifully wooded below the
splendid high hills, and the little wooden landing-place
which I remembered so well ; and very melancholy and
yet sweet were my feelings when I landed and found on
the path some of the same white pebbles which my
dearest Albert picked up and had made into a bracelet
for me. I picked up and carried off a handful myself.
We had taken our tea on board on deck. We now
entered two hired carriages, the girls and I in the first,
with Brown on the box, and Jane Churchill and Colonel
Ponsonby in the second. The evening was lovely, and
the lights and pink and golden sky as we drove through
the beautiful Trossachs were glorious indeed
So wondrous wild, the whole might seem
The scenery of a fairy dream
and along Loch Achray the setting sun behind Ben
Venue, which rose above most gloriously, so beautifully
described by Sir W. Scott :
The western waves of ebbing day
Rolled o'er the glen the level way.
Each purple peak, each flinty spire
Was bathed in floods of living fire.
We passed the fine Trossachs Inn where Louise had
stopped with Alice and Louis in 1865, and a lovely little
church in a most picturesque position, and lastly the
Brig of Turk. It is a long way round Loch Vennachar
to Invertrossachs : you see the house for three-quarters of
an hour before you can get to it. Home at eight. The
drive back was lovely, for long after the sun had set the
sky remained beautifully pink behind the dark blue hills.
A most successful day. Dinner as yesterday. I felt very
tired.
Friday, September 3.
A very dull, dark thick morning, and the hills beyond
Callander hardly visible. Still, no rain. Went up to my
room and wrote a little, and at twelve took a walk in a
very pretty wood quite close below the house, from several
points of which there are beautiful views, but the atmo-
sphere was too thick to see them to-day. . . . We lunched
all together. ... At half-past three we started again
(just as yesterday), and drove up the noble Pass of Leny,
past Kilmahog, where a little boy tried to give me a nose-
gay which was fixed to a pole, and in trying to catch it
Colonel Ponsonby let it fall. The little boy screamed
" Stop, stop ! " and ran in such an agony of disappoint-
ment that I stopped the carriage, and took it from him to
his mothers great delight. On our way we saw on a hill
among woods Leny House (belonging to Mr. Buchanan
Hamilton), where Sir W. Scott lived when he wrote " Rob
Roy."
We went along that truly beautiful Loch Lubnaig,
driving along its windings like the Axenstrasse on the
Lake of Lucerne, the high, jagged, and green hills rising
precipitously from it. It is four miles long, and very
romantic. There is a railway unfinished, only a single
line, on the western side, and as it ran along the loch it
again reminded me of the Axenstrasse at the points where
( 90 )
it goes low near the water. The road leads under beau-
tiful sycamore trees. We passed on the right a farmhouse
called Ardhullary, where formerly the Abyssinian traveller
Bruce used to live, and next entered Strathyre, a fine broad
open strath, wooded and with cornfields, the heather on
the hills quite pink. The village of Strathyre is composed
of a row of a few peasants' houses, with very poor people,
and a nice well-built little inn. A little way on again you
come to a picturesque little inn called the King's House,
covered with pretty creepers and convolvulus, and here
you turn short to the left and go up Balquhidder, another
most lovely glen, with a beautiful view of Loch Voil with
its beautiful sweeping green hills, the Braes of Balquhidder,
the strath itself very rich with its fine trees and cornfields,
the small river Balvaig running through it. We drove
about two miles, passing some pretty cottages covered
with creepers like the inn I mentioned, and stopped out-
side a neat-looking little village, fatKirkion of Balquhiddcr
(twelve miles from Callander), composed of only a few
cottages. We got out and walked up a steep knoll over
hanging the road, on which, under a splendid plane tree
(we passed some most beautiful limes just before), is the old
kirk-yard with the ruins of the old church. We went at
once to look at the tomb of Rob Roy a flat stone on
which is carved a figure in a kilt, and next to it a stone
where his wife is buried, and on which a sword is rudely
carved.* His son's tomb is next to his, but looks far
more modern. We went on to look at a very curious old
font, and then at two or three other tombstones. On one
of these were some verses, which Mr. Cameron, the
* These stones are supposed to be very ancient, and carved
centuries before they were adapted to their present use.
schoolmaster, an intelligent young man, recited, and
afterwards wrote out for me.*
We afterwards went into the very pretty new church,
which is close to the old ruin. Nothing can surpass the beauty
of the position of this spot, for it overlooks Loch Voil and
a glen, or rather mere ravine or corry, with a hill rising
behind it. We walked down again and re-entered our
carriage, driving back the same way, and passing about
half a mile from the Ktrkton, on our road back, the pre-
sent burial-place of the MacGregors (whose country this
is, or, alas ! rather was), which is a chapel standing in a
wood, the whole enclosed by a wall and iron gateway.
We drove past the King's House a very short way, and
then got out, scrambled up the hillside, sat down on a
bank overhanging a burn, kindled a fire, and had our tea.
This was on Lord Breadalbane's property. W T e got home
from this very interesting and beautiful drive by a quarter-
* The words of the inscription are :
ISABEL CAMBELL.
SPOUSK TO MR. ROBERT KIRK, MINISTER,
DIED 25 DECEMBER, l68o.
SHE HAD TWO SONS, COLIN AND WILLIAM.
HER AGE 25.
Stones weep tho' eyes were dry ;
Choicest flowers soonest die :
Their sun oft sets at noon,
Whose fruit is ripe in June.
Then tears of joy be thine,
Since earth must soon resign
To God what is divine.
Nasci est oegrotare, vivere est scepe mori, et mori est vivere
LOVE AND LIVE.
( 92 )
past eight. The day had not been bright dark and
dull, but quite clear enough to see everything in this truly
beautiful country.
Dinner as before. We always sit in the drawing-room,
and Jane read out the newspaper to us.
Saturday, September 4.
Up by half-past seven, and breakfasting at a quarter
to eight. Got on my pony Sultan * at nine, the others
walking, and went through the wood to the loch's edge,
where we three got into a small boat and were rowed
across to the other side by the keeper and underkeeper,
Brown sitting in the bow, Colonel Ponsonby and Jane
Churchill going across in another very small boat rowed
by one man. Here we got into our carriage as before.
Dear Beatrice enjoys it all very much, and is so good and
cheerful.
We drove on through the beautiful TrossacJls to Loch
Katrine. It was a very dark thick morning; no distance
to be seen at all, and Ben Venue very imperfectly. We
embarked by ten o'clock on board the steamer "Rob
Roy," and steamed off for Stronachlachar. No distant
view was visible, and the colour of the sky was really
that of a thick November fog. However, by the time we
reached Stronachlachar, it was much lighter to the left,
towards where we were going.
Here we got into two hired carriages again, Jane and
Colonel Ponsonby preceding us this time. We drove
along Loch Arklet, a lovely drive with pink heathered
hills to the right, and gradually the mist cleared off, and
allowed us to see rugged peaks above and in front of us.
* I rode him up to the top of the Righi (near Lucerne) 5,000
feet high, in 1868.
We met (as we had done from the first) several large
coaches, but with only outside seats, full of tourists.
This reminded me, as did the whole tour this day and on
Thursday, of Switzerland and our expeditions there,
especially now when we suddenly came upon Loch
Lomond, and drove down a very steep hill to Inversnaid,
where there is only one house (a small inn), and saw
high mountains, looking shadowy in the mist (dry mist),
rising abruptly from the loch. We went at once on
board the fine steamer "Prince Consort" (a pleasant
idea that that dear name should have carried his poor
little wife, alas! a widow, and children, on their first sail
on this beautiful lake which he went to see in 1847).
She is a fine large vessel, a good deal larger than the
" Winkelried " (in which we used to go on the Lake of
Lucerne), with a fine large dining-cabin below, a very
high upper deck, and a gallery underneath on which
people can stand and smoke without incommoding the
others above. The following people were on board:
Mr. A. Smollett, late M.P., Mr. Wylie, factor to Sir I.
Colquhoun, and Mr. Denny, the auditor, and Mr. Young,
the secretary.
We steamed southward, and for the first half nothing
could be finer or more truly Alpine, reminding me much
of the Lake of Lucerne; only it is longer Loch Lomond
being twenty-two miles long. We kept close to the east
shore, passing under Ben Lomond with its variously
called shoulders Cruachan, Craig a Bochan, and Ptar-
migan to Rowardennan pier, where there is a pretty
little house rented from the Duke of Montrose (to whom
half Loch Lomond belongs) by a Mr. Mair, a lovely spot
from whence you can ascend Ben Lomond, which is
3,192 feet high, and well wooded part of the way,
with cornfields belo\v. After you pass this, where there
( 9-!- )
are fine mountains on either side, though on the west
shore not so high, the lake widens out, but the shores
become much flatter and tamer (indeed to the east and
south completely so); but here are all the beautifully
wooded islands, to the number of twenty-four. Some of
them are large; on Inchlonaig Island the yews are said to
have been planted by Robert Bruce to encourage the
people in the use of archery. Another, Inch Cailliach,
is the ancient burial-place of the MacGregors.
On the mainland we passed Comtek Hill, and could
just see Buchanan House, the Duke of Montrose's, and
to the right the island of Inch Murrin, on which the
Duke has his deer preserve. The sun had come out
soon after we went on board, and it was blowing quite
fresh as we went against the wind. At two o'clock we
stopped off Portnellan for luncheon, which we had
brought with us and took below in the handsome large
cabin, where fifty or sixty people, if not more, could
easily dine. Colonel Ponsonby also lunched with us.
. . . This over, we went to the end of the lake to
Balloch, and here turned. It became very warm. To
the left we passed some very pretty villas (castles they
resembled) and places, amongst others Cameron (Mr.
Smollett's), Arden (Sir J. Lumsden's, Lord Provost of
Glasgow), Ross-Dhu (Sir J. Colquhoun's), the road to
Glen Fruin, the islands of Inch Connachan, Inch Taranach,
the point of Stob Gobhlach, Luss, a very prettily situated
village, the mountain of Ben Dubh, and the ferry of
Inveruglas, opposite Rowardennan. Then Tarbet, a small
town, where dearest Albert landed in 1847, and here
began the highest and finest mountains, with splendid
passes, richly wooded, and the highest mountains rising
behind. A glen leads across from Tarbet to Arrochar on
Loch Long, and here you see that most singularly shaped
( 95 )
hill called the Cobbler, and a little further on the splendid
Alps of Arrochar, All this and the way in which the
hills run into the lake reminded me so much of the
Nasen on the Lake of Lucerne.
The head of the lake with the very fine glen (Glen
Fallocli), along which you can drive to Oban, is magnifi-
cent. We (Louise and I) sketched as best we could,
but it is most difficult to do so when the steamer keeps
moving on; and we were afterwards much vexed we had
not asked them to go more slowly, as we had to wait
again for the "Rob Roy" steamer at Stronachlachar.
From the head of Loch Lomond (where is the Hotel of
Inverarnan] we turned; we were shown a hole in the
rock, on the east side, which they called Rob Roy's Cave,
and landed at Inversnaid. The people (quite a small
crowd) threw bunches of heather as we passed. Heather
is everywhere the decoration, and there is indeed no
lovelier, prettier ornament. It was in such full bloom.
The mountains here are peculiarly fine from the sharp
serrated outline and wonderful clothing of grass and trees.
It was a very bright warm evening, and the drive back,
which we had to take slowly, not to arrive too soon, was
extremely pretty. At Stronachlachar, both on embarking
and disembarking, there were a few people collected.
On board we had again our tea, and Mr. Blair, the very
obliging gentlemanlike host of the Trossachs Inn (and
possessor of the Loch Katrine steamer), who was in
attendance each time, gave us some clotted cream.
It was a splendid sail over this most lovely loch, and
delightful drive back by the Trossachs. We got into the
boat again where we left it this morning, and rowed
across; but this time it was most unpleasant, for it blew
and was very rough, and the little boat rolled and danced.
The second smaller one with the two others shipped
( 96 /
water. Rode back and got up to the house by half-past
seven. This was the only contretemps to our most
successful, enjoyable day. How dearest Albert would
have enjoyed it!
Dinner just as before, Jane reading the newspapers.
This day year we went to the Brtinig Pass.
Sunday, September 5.
A dull muggy morning. Decided not to go to kirk,
as it would have been very public. So at eleven rode
(on Sultan) with dear Beatrice (on her little Beatrice) for
an hour, first up at the back of the farm, and then a
little way on the beautiful pink heathery and bracken hills
just behind the house, and saw Loch Drunkie almost dry
from the drought, and looked over to the Brig of Turk,
then back by the stables to the house. Read the collect,
epistle, and gospel, and the second lesson for the day,
with the two girls, Beatrice reading the last-named.
While we were at luncheon it rained, but it soon ceased,
and the afternoon became quite fine and was very warm.
At half-past five walked out with Louise, Beatrice, and
Jane Churchill, stopping at the lodge where Mclsaacs,
the keeper, and his wife live. Walked some way on,
and then drove with Beatrice round a short way on the
Trossachs Road, coming home at half-past seven.
Monday, September 6.
Misty early, then beautiful and clear and very hot.
Got up with a bad headache. At five minutes to eleven
rode off with Beatrice, good Sharp going with us and
having occasional " collie-shangies " * with collies when
* A Scotch word for quarrels or "rows," but taken from fights
between " collies."
( 97 )
we came near cottages (A. Thomson and Kennedy fol-
lowing). We rode out the same way we came back yester-
day, and then up the same hill overlooking Loch Drunkie
which really is nearly dry and on down the other side of
the hill, as fast as we could go along a rough but very
pretty road, which brought us, over perfumed pink heather
interspersed with bracken, to a spot where you get a lovely
glimpse of Loch Achray and Ben Venue. We then con-
tinued along a wood past a few miserable cottages, but
as private as if I were riding at Balmoral, out into the
high road just at the Brig of Turk, and stopped at
what is called " Fergussoris Inn" but is in fact the very
poorest sort of Highland cottage. Here lives Mrs.
ergusson, an immensely fat woman and a well-known
laracter, who is quite rich and well dressed, but will not
eave the place where she has lived all her life selling
hisky. She was brought out and seemed delighted to
me, shaking hands with me and patting me. She
ralks with a crutch, and had to sit down. We only
topped a very few minutes, and then went home as fast
is we came, and got back by one. But Brown and the
ther two men were as hot as the day we went up the
/it, and it was indeed very hot. Our ride must have
>een eight miles altogether. My head still aching.
At three, after luncheon, we started just as yesterday,
nd drove the same way as last Friday up the Pass of Leny
y Loch Lubnaig, Strathyre and the King's House : here,
nstead of turning to the left to Balquhidder, we went
traight on for four miles, till we came to Loch Earn Head.
t was a beautiful and very hot afternoon. We stopped
t the inn, which is quite a small place commanding a
eautiful view of Loch Earn, which was splendidly lit up,
ae loch deep blue and the hills all lilac and violet. Sir
H
( 98 )
Malcolm * and Lady Helen MacGregor with their two little
children received us at the door and took us up upstairs.
They have got a very pretty little drawing-room (looking
on to the loch), which they have arranged nicely and com-
fortably. The two little girls are dear little things, Malvina
four and Margaret two years old. Sir Malcolm wore the
kilt. He is a captain in the Navy, and showed us some
curiosities brought home from New Zealand, also a bottle
which is said to have belonged to Rob Roy, and was
given to Lady Helen by an old man in the parish, and a
silver quaich out of which Prince Charles Edward had
drunk, and which had belonged to Sir Malcolm's great-'
great-grandfather. Lady Helen is the late Lord Antrim's
only child. Both were most kind and gave us some tea,
and at half-past five we left on our return. There was a
small friendly crowd collected at the door, who cheered
both when we arrived and when we left. We changed
horses here, or at least very near, in 1842 on our way back
from Taymouth. They said I mentioned the circum-
stance in my book, f We drove through the grounds of
Edinchip, which belongs to Sir Malcolm MacGregor (but
was then let), on the way home, and came back the same
road, reaching home by half-past seven.
My headache, which had been very bad all day, got
much better just before we got home.
Tuesilay, September 7. )
Received a letter from Colonel Elphinstone, dated
22nd from Halifax, with excellent accounts of dear Arthur.
The passage had been a very good one ; he had mixed
with every one on board, and been a general favourite
* He died in 1879.
f Our Life in the Highlands, p. 31.
( 99 )
three hundred emigrants on board. Walked, and rode
a little, while the others walked. Tired and feeling ill.
It turned wet and continued so all the evening. We,
however, determined to go to Loch Katrine, having
ordered the steamer, and boats to row to the Silver
Strand. So off I went with the girls and Lady Churchill
just as on the other days, but when we got there it was
too wet to do anything ; so we only went on board the
steamer, took our tea in the cabin below, and then drove
.back again by half-past seven.
Wednesday, September 8.
A very bad night from a violent attack of neuralgia
in my leg. I only got up after nine, and could hardly
walk or stand, but was otherwise not ill. I took a little,
but very little, breakfast, alone. I remained at home
reading, writing, and resting on the sofa or in an arm-chair.
I came down to luncheon, Brown helping me down and
up, but took it alone with the children in the drawing-
room. Rested afterwards, and at twenty minutes to four
took a quiet but enjoyable drive with Jane Churchill.
It was not very bright, nor the distance very clear, but
there were occasional gleams of bright sunshine which
lit up the fine scenery. We drove to Loch Menteith, just
the same way as on Thursday, and were surprised to find
how short the distance was. After passing the gate of
Redneck Castle we turned to the left and drove a short
way close along the lochside past the kirk and small
village (composed of only two or three houses) of Port
Menteith, getting a good view of Inchmahome on the way.
We stopped to take our tea (which had been made before we
went out, but was quite hot still) outside Rednock grounds,
and then drove back again, but took another turn through
Callander, and then along a road (above which a number
of pretty villas are built, and where you have a very pretty
view) which comes out at Kilmahog Turnpike. Then
home by a quarter past seven. Found Sir William Jenner,
whom we had sent for, arrived. I dined below (hobbling
along a little better and downstairs without help) in the
drawing-room with Louise and Jane Churchill.
Thursday, September 9.
I had a really very fair night, and on getting up
found I could walk much better, for which I was most
thankful. I went down to breakfast as usual. Received
again letters from dear Arthur and Colonel Elphinstone
with excellent and favourable accounts of the good his
presence had already done. At half-past eleven drove
with Louise and Beatrice up the Pass of Leny as far as
the commencement of Lech Lnbnaig, intending to sketch,
but it was too late. We met first two large coaches
covered with people on the narrowest part of the bridge
going to Kilmahog, and then endless droves of wild-
looking, and for the most part extremely small, shaggy
Highland cattle with their drovers and dogs most wild
and picturesque going to Falkirk Tryst. They stop
for nights on the road we saw some droves grazing on
the lower parts of the hills on our way to Loch Earn Head
and the drovers get shelter with friends in the cottages
and villages about. Home at half- past one. Planted
two (very small) trees in front of the house, as did
Louise and Beatrice also. Luncheon as yesterday, only
with the children. My leg very stiff, so that, with great
regret, I had to give up going to Loch Katrine for the
last time, which I had so much wished. However,
did drive with Beatrice as far as the Trossachs Inn and
back, and got a glimpse of the beautiful Trossachs and
Loch Ac/iray, with Ben Venue rising gloriously above it.
I even made a slight outline of it, and returned, quite
pleased at this, by half-past seven, stopping to make
and take our tea not far from home, I remaining in the
carriage. Felt better altogether, and was able to come
to the usual dinner, to which also Sir W. Jenner came.
Dear Beatrice sat with us during part of the dinner, as
she had done almost every night. Brown (the only
upper servant in attendance, as I brought no page), who
waited at all my meals, and did all the outdoor attendance
on me besides, with the greatest handiness, cheerfulness,
and alacrity, and the three very good footmen, Blake,
Cannon, and Charlie Thomson did all the waiting at
dinner and luncheon. Good Sharp was always in the
dining-room, but remained quietly lying down.
Friday, September 10.
Raining early, which made me feel I had done right
in giving up going by the Spital, as I had intended up
to yesterday afternoon. Felt, however, better, and could
walk with much greater ease. At half-past eleven we
left Invertrossachs, the recollection of the ten days at
which quiet and cozy and of the beautiful country
and scenery I saw in the neighbourhood, though the
last two days were spoilt by stupid indisposition, will
ever be a very pleasant one. The two girls and I drove
in a Callander carriage, with Brown on the box, perched
up alarmingly high, Jane Churchill and the two gentlemen
having preceded us to the station at Callander. All our
luggage, ponies and all, went with our train. We stopped
outside Perth for luncheon for a few minutes and Jane
Churchill came in again at Aberdeen for our tea to
enable Brown to come and help us. When we reached
Ballater^ where we got into two carriages, it began
to rain.
Reached Balmoral at half-past six.
( T 3 )
SHEEP CLIPPING, 1870.
Balmoral, Monday, June 13, 1870.
Drove off at half-past eleven on past J. Thomson's
house. Here, in the nearest adjoining field, close to
the wall, all the sheep (mine) were in a pen, and James
Brown, the shepherd, and Morrison, my grieve at
Invergelder, assisted by others (one, a brother of the
Morgans), took them out one by one, tied their legs
together, and then placed them on the laps of the
women who were seated on the ground, and who
clipped them one after the other, wonderfully well, with
huge scissors or clippers. Four were seated in a sort of
half-circle, of whom three were Mrs. Durran, Mrs. Leys
(both these did their work admirably), and Mrs. Morrison,
who seemed rather new at it, and had some difficulty
with these great heavy sheep, which kick a good deal.
The clippers must take them between their knees, and
it is very hard work. Four other women were sitting
close under the wall, also clipping. Then the sheep
were all marked ; and some, before being clipped, had to
have their horns sawn to prevent them growing into
their heads. It was a very picturesque sight, and quite
curious to see the splendid thick wool peel off like a
regular coat.
( T04
BETROTHAL OF PRINCESS LOUISE TO THE
MARQUIS OF LORNE, OCTOBER 3, 1870.
Balmoral^ October 3, 1870.
This was an eventful day ! Our dear Louise was
engaged to Lord Lome.
The event took place during a walk from the
Glassalt Shiel to the Dhu Loch. She had gone there
with Janie Ely, the Lord Chancellor (Lord Hatherley),
and Lome. I had driven with Beatrice and the Hon.
Mrs. Ponsonby to Pannanich Wells, two miles from
Ballater, on the south side of the Dee, where I had been
many years ago. Unfortunately almost all the trees
which covered the hills have been cut down.
We got out and tasted the water, which is strongly
impregnated with iron, and looked at the bath and at
the humble but very clean accommodation in the curious
little old inn, which used to be very much frequented.
Brown formerly stayed there for a year as servant, and
then quantities of horses and goats were there.
The same perfectly cloudless sky as on the two
preceding days. We got home by seven. Louise, who
returned some time after we did, told me that Lome had
spoken of his devotion to her, and proposed to her, and
that she had accepted him, knowing that I would approve.
Though I was not unprepared for this result, I felt pain-
fully the thought of losing her. But I naturally gave my
consent, and could only pray that she might be happy.
COMMUNION SUNDAY AT CRATHIE, 1871.
Balmoral, Sunday, November 13, 1871.
A very bright morning with deep snow. At twelve
o'clock I went to the kirk with my two ladies (the
Duchess of Roxburghe and Lady Ely), Lord Bridport
being also in attendance. At the end of the sermon
began the service of the Communion, which is most
touching and beautiful, and impressed and moved me
more than I can express. I shall never forget it.
The appearance of the kirk was very striking, with
the tables in the cross seats, on either side facing the
pulpit, covered with a white cloth. Neither Brown,
though he came with us, nor any of our Scotch servants
sat behind us, as usual, but all below, as every one does
who intends taking the sacrament at the " first table." A
table, also covered with a white cloth, was placed in
front of the middle pew, directly facing the pulpit.
The service was the same as that on ordinary Sundays
until after the sermon, excepting that every psalm and
prayer had reference to the Lord's Supper, and the
sermon was on the perfect obedience of the Son (Hebrews
ii. 10).
The prayer after the sermon was very short, after
which Dr. Taylor delivered an address from the pulpit,
in which he very beautifully invited all true penitents to
receive the communion, the hardened sinner alone to
abstain. It was done in a very kind and encouraging
tone. Dr. Taylor adopted part of one of the English
prayers, only shortened and simplified. . . . After this
address "the Fencing of the Tables," as it is called
the minister came down to the small table in front of the
pulpit, where he stood with the assistant minister, and
the elders on either side, and while the 35th Para-
phrase was being sung the elders brought in the Elements,
and placed them on the table, viz. the bread cut into
small pieces, and two large plates lined with napkins, and
the wine in four large silver cups. The minister then
read the words of the institution of the Lord's Supper,
from i Corinthians xi. 23, and this was followed by a
short but very impressive prayer of consecration.
This done, he handed the bread first, and then the
wine, right and left to the elders, Francis Leys (Brown's
uncle), Symon " the merchant," Hunter, and Dr. Robert-
son, to dispense; himself giving both to one or two
people nearest to him, who were in the middle pew,
where the Thomsons all sit generally, and in which, on
this occasion, were old Donald Stewart and his wife
(eighty-six and eighty-one, looking so nice and venerable),
the young Donald Stewarts, the Thomsons, old Mr. and
Mrs. Brown (he eighty-one and very much bent, and she
seventy-one). Old John Brown and old Donald Stewart
wore large plaids; old Smith of Kintore was likewise in
this pew. The bread was then reverently eaten, and the
wine drunk, sitting, each person passing it on one to the
other; the cup being replaced by each on the table before
them after they had partaken of the wine, and then the
elder carried it on to the next pews, in which there were
tables, until all those in that portion of the church pre-
pared for the Lord's Supper, had communicated. After
which the elders replaced the Elements on the table
before the minister, who delivered a short address of
thankfulness and exhortation. He then gave out the
1 03rd Psalm, which was sung while the communicants
were leaving the tables, to be occupied in turn by others.
We left after this. It would indeed be impossible to
say how deeply we were impressed by the grand simplicity
of the service. It was all so truly earnest, and no de-
scription can do justice to the perfect devotion of the
whole assemblage. It was most touching, and I longed
much to join in it* To see all these simple good people
in their nice plain dresses (including an old woman in her
mutch), so many of whom I knew, and some of whom
had walked far, old as they were, in the deep snow, was
very striking. Almost all our own people were there.
We came home at twenty minutes before two o'clock.
* Since 1873 I have regularly partaken of the Communion at
Crathie every autumn, it being always given at that time.
THE "SPATE," 1872.
Tuesday, June 11, 1872.
Brown came in soon after four o'clock, saying he had
been down at the waterside, for a child had fallen into
the water, and the whole district was out to try and
recover it but it must be drowned long before this time.
I was dreadfully shocked. It was the child of a man
named Rattray, who lives at Cairn-na-Craig, just above
where the new wood- merchant has built a house, and
quite close to the keeper Abercrombie's house, not far
from Monaltrie Farmhouse in the street. At a little
before five, set off in the waggonette with Beatrice and
Janie Ely, and drove along the north side of the river.
We stopped a little way beyond Tynebaich, and saw the
people wandering along the riverside. Two women told
us that two children had fallen in (how terrible!), and
that one " had been gotten the little een " (as the people
pronounce " one "), but not the eldest. They were
searching everywhere. While we were there, the old
grandmother, Catenach by name, who lives at Scatter
Hole, came running along in a great state of distress.
She is Rattray's mother. We drove on a little way, and
then turned round.
We heard from the people that the two boys, one of
ten or eleven and the other only three, were at Monaltrie
Burn, which comes down close to the farmhouse and
below Mrs. Patterson's shop, passing under a little bridge
and running into the Dee. This burn is generally very
low and small, but had risen to a great height the Dee
itself being tremendously high not a stone to be seen.
The little child fell in while the eldest was fishing ; the
other jumped in after him, trying to save his little brother ;
and before any one could come out to save them (though
the screams of Abercrombie's children, who were with
them, were heard) they were carried away and swept by
the violence of the current into the Dee, and carried along.
Too dreadful ! It seems, from what I heard coming back,
that the poor mother was away from home, having gone
to see her own mother, who was dying, and that she
purposely kept this eldest boy back from school to watch
the little one.
We drove back and up to Mrs. Grant's, where we took
tea, and then walked up along the riverside, and heard
that nothing had been found and that the boat had gone
back ; but as we approached nearer to the castle we saw
people on the banks and rocks with sticks searching :
amongst them was the poor father a sad and piteous
sight crying and looking so anxiously for his poor child's
body.
Wednesday , June 12.
Drove up to the Bush to warn Mrs. William Brown
never to let dear little Albert run about alone, or near to
the burn, of the danger of which she was quite aware.
She said her husband, William, had started off early at
three this mornimg. Some people went down to Aber-
geldie and as far as the Girnoch to search, and others were
up and below the castle.
No word of the poor child being found. All were to
start early to search.
Thursday, June 13.
At half-past ten drove out in the waggonette with
Beatrice and Janie Ely, and drove beyond Mrs. Patterson's
" shoppie " a little way, and turned up to the right off
the road behind the wood-merchant's new cottage, and
got out just below Abercrombie the keeper's house, and
walked a few paces on to the small cottage called Cairn-
na- Craig, at the foot of Craig Noerdie, in a lovely position,
sheltered under the hill, yet high, with a beautiful view of
Lochnagar. Brown went in first, and was received by the
old grandmother ; and then we went in, and on a table
in the kitchen covered with a sheet, which they lifted up,
lay the poor sweet innocent " bairnie," only three years
old, a fine plump child, and looking just as though it
slept, with quite a pink colour, and very little scratched,
in its last clothes with its little hands joined a most
touching sight. I let Beatrice see it, and was glad she
should see death for the first time in so touching and
pleasing a form.
Then the poor mother came in, calm and quiet, though
she cried a little at first when I took her hand and said
how much I felt for her, and how dreadful it was. She
checked herself, and said, with that great resignation and
trust which it is so edifying to witness, and which you see
so strongly here, " We must try to bear it ; we must trust
to the Almighty."
The poor little thing was called Sandy. She herself
is a thin, pale, dark, very good and respectable-looking
woman. She had no wish to go away that day, as the old
grandmother told us, but her husband wished her to see
her mother. She has one boy and two girls left, and the
eldest and youngest are taken.
( III )
They were playing at the burnside, but some way above
the road, where there is a small bridge. As we were
leaving I gave her something, and she was quite overcome,
and blessed me for it.
We walked down again, and then drove back, and
walked at once past the stables to the riverside, where,
on both sides, every one was assembled, four in the boat
(Donald Stewart and Jemmie Brown amongst them), and
''all with sticks, and up and down they went, searching
under every stone. They had been up to the boat pool
and back, but nothing appeared. I remained watching
till one o'clock, feeling unable to tear myself away from
this terrible sight. The poor father was on our side,
William Brown amongst the others on the other side. I
sat on the bank with Janie Ely for some time (Beatrice
having gone in earlier than I), Grant as well as Brown
standing near me. When they came to that very deep
pool, where twenty-two years ago a man was nearly
drowned when they were leistering for salmon, they held
a piece of red cloth on a pole over the water, which
enabled them to see down to the bottom. But all in vain.
The river, though lower, was still very high.
At four took a short drive in the single pony carriage
with Janie Ely, and back before five. Saw and talked to
the schoolmaster, Mr. Lubban, a very nice little man, and
he said that this poor child, Jemmie, the eldest, was such
a good, clever boy. Every one shows so much feeling and
kindness. It is quite beautiful to see the way in which
every one turned out to help to find this poor child, from
the first thing in the morning till the last at night which,
during these long days, was very hard work and all
seemed to feel the calamity deeply. We heard by tele-
graph during dinner that the poor boy's body had been
found on an island opposite Pannanich, below Ballater,
and that steps would be taken at once to recover it.
Saturday, June \ 5.
After luncheon, at a quarter to three, drove with the
two children up as far as the West Lodge, and just then de-
scried the sad funeral procession slowly and sadly wending
its way along the road ; so we drove back again, catching
glimpses of it as we went along, and drove on a little way
beyond the bridge, when, seeing the first people not far
off, we turned and drove back, stopping close to the
bridge, and here we waited to see them pass. There
were about thirty people, I should say, including the poor
father, Jemmie and Willie Brown, Francie's brother, Alick
Leys, Farmer Patterson, etc. The poor father walked in
front of one of the coffins ; both covered with white, and
so small. It was a very sad sight. Dr. Taylor walked
last with another gentleman. He had of course been up
to the house and performed the service there, as is always
done throughout Scotland by all the Protestant denomi-
nations except the Episcopalian, and no service whatever
near the grave.* We watched the sad procession as long'
as we could, and drove home again.
* A change has taken place since this was written, and now
(1883) a prayer is sometimes said as well at the grave.
VISIT TO HOLYROOD AND EDINBURGH,
AUGUST 13, 1872.
Tuesday, August 13.
At six I left sweet Osborne with Leopold and Beatrice,
Marie Leiningen, and the Duchess of Roxburghe, Flora
Macdonald,* Colonels Ponsonby and De Ros, Mr. Collins,
and Fraulein Bauer. It was very warm. The yachts,
which were out, had a very pretty effect. At Gosporf,
where we had to wait about ten minutes before landing,
as we arrived too soon, I took leave of dear Marie Lein-
ingen, who was to return to Germany next day. We had
our own usual large travelling railway carriages, which are
indeed charming.
It was a splendid night. Sir W. Jenner joined us at
Basingstoke, and at Banbury at half-past ten we stopped
for refreshments, and lay down before twelve.
Wednesday ; August 14.
I had a good deal 01 rest, and was up and dressed by
eight, or a little past. But we had already passed Melrose,
\ and there was so much fog, and the air so thick, that we
could see very little. The last station (not in a village
* The Hon. Flora Macdonald, Maid of Honour, now Bed-
dumber Woman.
'
or town) was Fountain?! all, where old Mr. Lawson, the
former Lord Provost of Edinburgh and famous seedsman,
came up to the carriage, and some little girls presented
Baby (as Beatrice is always called by us still) with a nose-
gay. We passed PortobeUo, and a few minutes more
Drought us to the very station the private one, outside
Edinburgh which for eleven years my beloved Albert
and I had always arrived at, and where we left it together
eleven years ago. There it was, all unaltered, and yet all
so altered !
The General, Sir J. Douglas,* the Lord Provost, and
other official people received us there, and we got into our
carriage. The two children and the Duchess of Roxburghe
went in the carriage with me.
It was a dull, gloomy, heavy morning, but a great many
people were out, and all most enthusiastic, reminding me
forcibly and sadly of former days. We had an escort of
the Scots Greys. We drove up to the door of the old,
gloomy, but historical Palace of Holy rood, where a guard
of honour with a band of the 93rd Highlanders were sta :
tioned in the quadrangle of the court. We got out, walked
up the usual stairs, and passed through two of the large
gloomy rooms we used to occupy, and then went past
some passages up another and very steep staircase to the
so-called " Argyll rooms" which have been arranged for
me, with very pretty light paper, chintz, and carpets (chosen
by Louise). There is a suite, beginning with a dining-
room (the least cheerful) at the farthest end, and then my
sitting-room, a large and most cheerful room, the nicest
of all, with very light paper ; next to this the bedroom,
almost too large a room, and out of this the dressing-room i
All open one out of the other, and have, except the!;
dining-room, the same pretty carpets and chintzes (red 1 ;
* Commanding the forces in Scotland.
geraniums on a white ground). The page's room and a
wardrobe and dresser's room are just opposite, across a
small passage.
We three took breakfast directly in the dining-room.
Our rooms are above the old rooms, and have the same
look-out.
It cleared up, and though still thick and hazy, the
sun shone out brightly, and at a quarter to twelve I went
out into the garden, going through our old rooms, which
looked sadly deserted : all open and some few things
removed from them ; the gloomy bedroom with its
faded tapestry and green silk bed, and the wretched little
dark box-room in which I undressed at night, all full of
many recollections. I went through the long picture
gallery, down the small steps into the garden, where I
met Beatrice, who walked with me. We walked about
the garden, which is improved, but terribly overlooked,
and quite exposed to public view on the side looking
towards the street. We walked about the fine old chapel
with its beautiful window and its tombstones, and then
went in Beatrice and I with Brown (who was much
interested by all) conducted by the keeper, an intelligent
sensible man called Anderson, and visited the rooms of
Queen Mary, beginning with the Hamilton apartments
(which were Lord Darnley's rooms) and going up the old
staircase to Queen Mary's chamber. In Lord Darnley's
rooms there are some fine old tapestry and interesting
portraits of the Royal family, and of the Dukes and
Duchesses of Hamilton. There are some other curious
old pictures in this room.
We saw the small secret staircase which led up in the
turret to Queen Mary's bedroom, and we went up another
dark old winding staircase at the top of which poor
Rizzio was so horribly murdered whose blood is still
I 2
supposed to stain the floor. We entered the Presence
Chamber, the ceiling of which, in panels, is from the time
of Queen Mary, and contains her mother's and her own
initials and arms as Dauphine of France and Queen of
Scotland, with Darnley's initials. Here is the bed provided
for Charles I. when he came to Holyrood to be crowned
King of Scotland. Thence we were shown into poor
Queen Mary's bedroom, where are the faded old bed she
used, the baby-basket sent her by Queen Elizabeth when
King James I. was born, and her work-box. All hung
with old tapestry, and the two little turret rooms ; the
one where she was supping when poor Rizzio was mur-
dered, the other her dressing-room. Bits of the old
tapestry which covered the walls at the time are hung up
in frames in the rooms. Beatrice is immensely interested
by all she sees, and delighted with everything.
At half-past five drove off in the open landau and
four with Beatrice, Leopold, and the Duchess of Rox-
burghe, the two equerries riding. We drove up through
the Canongate, that curious old street with its very high-
storied houses, past Knox's House and quaint old buildings,
with the lowest, poorest people about, down Bank Street,
and eastward along Princes Street, that splendid street
with its beautiful shops, hotels, etc., on one side, and its
fine monuments on the other, the gardens and institutions
and other parts of the town rising above it and crowned
by the picturesque Castle ; then by Saint Andrew
Street, across Saint Andrew Square (where Lord Mel-
ville's statue is), along George Street, a fine wide street,
at the end of which is Charlotte Square, where my dear
one's Monument is to be placed, and where I was to
have stopped to look at the site. But the crowd, which was
very great everywhere and would run with us (facilitated
by the great steepness and slipperiness of the streets), as
( "7 )
well as the great number of cabs and vehicles of all kinds
which would drive along after us everywhere, made this
impossible. We turned to the left with some difficulty
one or two carriages coming in contact with ours
and went on by Hope Street, Queen's Ferry Street, where
we took a wrong turn, and went by Clarendon Crescent
and Forres Street till we got to the Water of Leith, where
we found we could not go on.
We had to turn, with considerable difficulty, owing to
the narrowness of the road, and go back again by Moray
Place, Heriot Row, and thence down by Pitt Street on to
Inrerleith Row (outside the town), past the Botanic
Garden, then along the Queen's Ferry Road, Pilrig Street,
and Leith Walk (which I remembered from our having
taken the same drive in 1861), then along a broad street,
under the Calton Hill, and Regent Terrace, past Holyrood,
into the beautiful Queen's Drive, right round Arthur's
Seat with its fine grass, its rocks and small lochs. Un-
fortunately, however, no clear distant view could be
obtained on account of the fog. Home to Holyrood at
half-past seven. It was a fatiguing drive.
The crowds were very great, but the people behaved
remarkably well ; only they kept cheering and shouting
and running with us, for the postilions drove very slowly
whenever there was the slightest descent, and there were
many in the town, and one long one coming down home
from the Queen's Drive. A good many flags were out,
(but there were hardly any decorations. The equerries
\ kept extremely well close up to the carriage, which was
! no easy task.
Roslin Chapel. Walked a little in the garden at half-past
ten, and then sat for half an hour under the only tree
which afforded shade and was not overlooked by the street,
a thorn, with very overhanging long branches, on a small
grassy mound or " hillock." Here I read out of a volume
of Poems by the "Ettrick Shepherd," full of beautiful
things (which Brown had given me some years ago), and
wrote till half-past twelve.
At half-past five I started as yesterday with Beatrice,
Leopold, and the Duchess of Roxburghe, the two equerries
riding, and took a very long rather too long drive. It
would have been quite beautiful and most enjoyable
from the very fine scenery with rich vegetation, fine trees,
and hills, and dales, with the Pentlands in the distance,
had it not been for a dark, heavy, leaden fog and sky like
November, but warmer, which obscured all the distance in
the most provoking way, and at one time even came down
in a rather heavy shower. We went out by the Queen's
Drive, going to the right as we left Holyrood. Numbers
of people surrounded the entrance, and, as there is a
long ascent part of the way, some of them, especially
boys, ran along with us. We proceeded by the Liberton
Road, on past the villages of Straiton, Lasswade (very
picturesque, and which I well remember from 1842), and
Bonnyrigg, to Dalhousie Castle, where we had visited the
late Marquis and Marchioness from Dalkeith in 1842
(the Duchess of Buccleuch drove me over), an old Scotch
castle in red stone, where, however, we did not get out. It
had been raining, but we did not shut the carriage, and
just as we had thought of doing so the rain ceased. From
here we drove under a very fine viaduct along the South
Esk, past Newbattle (not into the grounds) where there
is an arch which was built for George IV. to drive through,
but he never went there on through the small town of
Dalkeith, where many people, as indeed in almost every
other place, had collected, into the Park of Dalkeith.
Here, as well as everywhere in the neighbourhood, there
are beautiful trees, especially some very fine sycamores.
We drove up to the house, and got out, as I wished the
children to see the rooms where we had lived. The
staircase and the gallery where I held the Drawing-room
I remembered well, as also the dining-room. Our former
rooms were shown us ; but though the bed and even
the washing-basin still exist, the rooms which had been
arranged for us are altered.
We visited it last in September 1859. The popula-
tion of Dalkeith and of all the villages about here are
colliers and miners, and are very poor. We came home
straight, coming into the same road as we started by, and
going down the hill of the Queen's Drive. We collected
again a goodly and most good-humoured crowd, and saw
the little boys and girls rolling down the steep hill, and
people pouring in from the town to get a sight of us.
Friday, August 16.
A thoroughly wet day. At half- past eleven I walked
)ut with Flora Macdonald (whose name attracted great
ttention in Edinburgh}, right across the court to the
xbles, which are very good, and saw all belonging
them harness-room, coach-house, etc. Then I
jked into the guard-room next door, where the guard,
t'ho were called out and drawn up thinking I was
jming by, did not know us. I went in behind them,
id I found a sergeant (I think) of the 93rd in full dress,
rith four medals, and I asked him his years' service,
vhich were twenty, and where he came from " Perth-
hire" Two other men, who were cooking and had
( 1.20 )
their coats off, were in the room where they also slept.
The newspapers have reported an absurd conversation
of mine with them, but none took place. We then
walked back through the house into the garden, and
finally came home through the chapel at half-past
twelve.
It was raining hard, but nevertheless we started at
half-past four in the open landau, Beatrice and the
two ladies with me, the two equerries riding. We drove
by way of Princes Street, which overlooks the Mound
with its gardens and fine buildings, and is always so
animated and full of people on foot and in carriages ;
crossed the Dean Bridge, which commands a most beauti-
ful view, though then it was obscured by the pelting
rain ; passed Stewart's Asylum, a fine new building,
getting from the road a good view of another fine insti-
tution, Fettes College, built only within the last few years ;
and so on to the edge of Barnton Park, where we turned
back to Granton. By this time it had begun to blow
most violently, in addition to the rain, and the umbrellas
dripped and the carriage became soaked. Our road
lay close to the sea, past Granton Pier where we had
landed in 1842 ; Trinity came next, a place with some
good houses, and then Newharen \i\\eto. we saw many
fishwives who were very enthusiastic, but not in their
smartest dress and then Leith, where there were numbers
of people looking out for us in spite of the dreadful
rain ; but indeed everywhere the poor people came out
and were most loyal. We took a wrong turn here, and
had to come back again to go to the Albert Docks new
and very splendid large docks, with the ships all decked
out. We stopped a moment to speak to the Provost ol
Leith, who said the people were very grateful for my
coming ; and I have since had repeated expressions of
thanks, saying the good people felt my coming out in
the rain more than anything. We drove on along the
shore, with a distant view of the Island of Inchkeith, by
Leith Links, the London Road, the Cavalry Barracks,
St. Margaret's Station and Queen's Park, home. We got
home by ten minutes past seven. We were all more or
less wet, and had to change our things. The waterproofs
seemed not to have done their work. After dinner, at
twenty minutes past eleven, we left Holyrood ; a gardener
presented me with a bouquet, and said it was "the
proudest day in his life." It did not rain, so we had the
carriage open. The two children and the Duchess of
Roxburghe were in our carriage, and we had an escort.
Numbers of people were out. The whole way was
splendidly lit up by red, blue, and yellow lights from
Salisbury Crags and Arthur's Seat, and the effect was
most dazzling and beautiful. There were besides some
torches near the station, which was the same we arrived
at. The Provost hoped I "was leaving well," and I
thanked him for the very kind reception which I had met
with, and for the beautiful illuminations.
Saturday, August 17.
Did not sleep much or well it was so very hot, and
I was too much excited, and then we had to be roused up
and to dress hurriedly before seven, by which time we
were at Ballater. There were many people out, and so
there were at Balmoral, where we arrived at a quarter to
eight. The heather beautiful, but not completely out yet.
The air sweet and soft.
Beloved Mama's birthday ! That dear, dear mother !
so loving and tender, so full of kindness ! How often I
long for that love ! She frequently spent this day at
Abergeldie, but we were not here then.
VISIT TO DUNROBIN, 1 8/2.
Friday, September 6, 1872.
A dull but fair morning. Breakfasted with the children
before nine o'clock, and at half-past nine I left dear
Balmoral in the open landau and four with Beatrice and
Leopold, Jane Churchill, Fraulein Bauer, and Lord
Granville, and drove to Ballater, where Colonel Ponsonby,
Sir W. Jenner, and Mr. Collins met us. Besides Brown,
who superintends everything for me, Emilie Dittweiler,
Annie Macdonald, Jemmie Morgan, my second piper
Willie Leys, Beatrice's, Leopold's, and Lady Churchill's
attendants, three footmen and Goddard went with us.
We passed into the station at Aberdeen, which was
immensely crowded. An address and the keys were
presented by Provost Leslie ; then Lord Kintore (who
gave me a nosegay and some fruit) and young Lord
Aberdeen were presented. The day was becoming fine,
and it was excessively hot. From Aberdeen we went by a
line totally new to me past Inverurie, close past the hill
of Benachie, and got a good sight of the Buck of Cabrach
and the surrounding hills, past Huntly and the ruined
Castle of Huntly to Keith, where the Banff Volunteers
were drawn up and there were many people close to the
station,, but no one on the platform.- Here we were
delayed by one of the doors, from the bedroom into the
little dressing-room, refusing to open. Annie had gone
through shortly before we got to^Kf/'/Aiaftd when she wanted
to go back, the door would not open, and nothing could
make it open. Brown tried with all his might and with
knives, but in vain, and we had to take in the two railway
men with us, hammering and knocking away as we went
on, till at last they forced it open. We were at Keith at
1.20, and at Elgin at 1.58. The station here was beauti-
fully decorated ; there were several arches adorned with
flowers and heather, and a platform with raised seats for
many ladies. The Provost and the Duke of Richmond
and Lord March were there. The Provost presented an
address, and then I spoke to the Duke of Richmond,
who told me that dear Uncle Leopold had received the
freedom of the city when he was staying in the neighbour-
hood in 1819. The ruins of the Cathedral are said to be
the finest in Scotland, and 'the town is full of ancient
recollections. No British sovereign has ever been so far
north. The Provost's daughter presented me with a
nosegay.
We stopped here about ten minutes. It was broiling
hot. The corn and oats looked ripe, and were cut in
many places. After this we took our luncheon (cold), and
as we were sitting at the small table we suddenly found
ourselves passing slowly, without stopping, the station of
Forres, near which is the wild " muir " which Shakespeare
chose as the scene of Macbeth's meeting with the witches.
Nairn lies very prettily on the shore of the Moray Frith.
We passed Culloden, and the moor where that bloody
battle, the recollection of which I cannot bear, was fought.
The heather beautiful everywhere, and now the scenery
became very fine. At half-past three we were at Inverness,
the capital of the Highlands, the position of which is lovely.
We stopped here for ten minutes, but outside the station
There was an immense crowd, but all very well managed,
and no squeeze or crush. There were numbers of seats
in galleries filled with ladies, among whom I recognised
Mrs. Cluny Macpherson. Cluny Macpherson himself
was in command of the Volunteers. On the platform to
the left (the Volunteers and the galleries with seats were
to the right) was the Provost, Dr. Mackenzie, a fine-
looking old man in a kilt, with very white hair and along
white beard, who presented an address. Lord Seafield,
the Master of Lovat, Mr. Baillie of Dock/our^ and his son
Mr. Evan Baillie, were all there, and I said a word to
each. The Provost's grand-daughter presented a bouquet.
There was an immense crowd at the back of the platform.
As our train proceeded, the scenery was lovely. Near
the ruins of the old Priory of Beauty the river of the
same name flows into the Beauty Frith* and the frith
looks like an enormous lake with hills rising above it
which were reflected on the perfectly still water. The
light and colouring were rather grey, but had a charming
effect. At twenty minutes to four we reached DmgwaU^
where there were Volunteers, as indeed there were every-
where, and where another address was presented and also
flowers. Sir J. Matheson, Lord Lieutenant of the county,
was named to me, also the Vice- Lieutenant ; and some
young ladies gave Beatrice nosegays. The position of
Dingwall, in a glen with hills rising above it, is extremely
pretty, and reminds me of a village in Switzerland. The
head of the Cromartie Frith appears here. After this
and passing slowly Tain and St. Duthus (called after the
Cathedral there), we thought, as we did not stop, and
were not to do so, that we would take our tea and coffee
which kept quite hot in the Norwegian kitchen when
suddenly, before we had finished, we stopped at Bonar
* Beauly, so called from the French " Beau lieu."
Bridge, and the Duke of Sutherland came up to the door.
He had been driving the engine (!) all the way from
Inverness, but only appeared now on account of this being
the boundary of his territory, and the commencement of the
Sutherland railroad. He expressed the honour it was to
him that I was coming to Dunrobin. Lord Ronald L.
Gower also came up to the carriage-door. There was a
most excited station-master who would not leave the
crowd of poor country-people in quiet, but told them
to cheer and "cheer again," another "cheer," etc.,
without ceasing.
Here the Dornoch Frith, which first appears at Tain,
was left behind, and we entered the glen of the Shin.
The railway is at a very high level here, and you see the
Shin winding below with heathery hills on either side
and many fine rocks, wild, solitary, and picturesque. The
Duchess of Sutherland's own property begins at the end
of this glen. At six we were at Golspie station, where
the Duchess of Sutherland received us, and where a
detachment of the Sutherland Volunteers, who look very
handsome in red jackets and Sutherland tartan kilts, was
drawn up. I got into the Duchess's carriage, a barouche
with four horses, the Duke riding, as also Lady Florence
and their second son Lord Tarbat, and drove through the
small town one long street like Dufftown which is
inhabited chiefly by a fishing population, and was ex-
tremely prettily decorated with heather and flowers, and
where there were many triumphal arches with Gaelic in-
scriptions (which I annex) and some very pretty English
ones.
" Ar Buidheachas do 'n Bhuadhaich. "
" Our Gratitude to Victoria."
'"' Na h-uile lath chi's nach fhaic, slainte duibh 'is solas."
" Health and happiness, far or near."
(Literally " Every day see we you, or see we not,
health to you and happiness.")
" Ceud mile failte do Chattaobh."
" A hundred thousand welcomes to Sutherland."
" Failte do 'n laith Buidhe.'
" Hail to the lucky day."
" Better-lo'ed you canna' be ;
Will you no come back again ? "
Everywhere the loyalty and enthusiasm were very great.
In about ten minutes we were at Dunrobin Castle. Coming
suddenly upon it as one does, or rather driving down to
it, it has a very fine imposing appearance with its very
high roof and turrets, a mixture of an old Scotch castle
and French chateau. Constance Westminster (the Mar-
chioness of Westminster, the Duke's youngest sister) was
at the door, and Annie Sutherland's little girl in the hall,
which is, as also the staircase, all of stone, with a sort of
gallery going round opening into a corridor. But I will
describe this and the rooms to-morrow.
The Duchess took me to my rooms, which had been
purposely arranged and handsomely furnished by the
dear late Duke and Duchess for us both, and consist of
a sitting-room next to the drawing-room, with a little
turret communicating by a small passage with the dressing-
room, which opens into the bedroom and another room
which is my maid's room, and was intended for dearest
Albert's dressing-room. I went to see Beatrice's room,
which is close by, down three steps in the same passage.
Fraulein Bauer, and Morgan, her dresser, are near her.
( 127 )
Brown lives just opposite in the room intended for Albert's
valet. It was formerly the prison.
Rested a little while, for I felt very tired. Dined at
half-past eight alone in my sitting-room with Beatrice and
Leopold, Brown waiting. Shortly afterwards Annie Suther-
land came to see us for a little while, and later Jane
Churchill. The children went early to bed.
Dunrobin, Saturday, September 7.
I will now describe my rooms. They are very high; the
bedroom is the largest and very handsome, with a beauti-
ful bed with white and gold flowers and doves at each
corner (just like one at Clieveden), with light blue furniture,
and gold and white round the cornice of the ceiling ; pale
blue and white panels ; blue satin spangled with yellow
leaves (which look just like gold) on the walls ; and furni-
ture and carpet to match. The dressing-room the same,
but pale blue and pink silk fluted, on the walls. The
sitting-room pale sea-green satin, with the cyphers of the
late Duke and Duchess and their daughters on the ceiling.
The furniture of light wood, and the sofas, chairs, tables,
etc., remind me greatly of Clieveden and Stafford House.
The little boudoir has a small domed ceiling, spangled
with golden stars, and the same furniture. There are
some pretty pictures in the sitting-room and prints in the
other rooms. At half-past nine we breakfasted in the
sitting-room, and soon after saw the Duchess. At twenty
minutes to eleven, I walked out with the Duchess and
Beatrice to the steps, of which there are several flights,
leading down to the garden, which is very pretty, and
where there are fountains, and from here straight on to
the sea, which is closer to the house, by half a mile I
should say, than at Osborne. We walked along here, and
then up and into the pretty byre for Ayrshire cows, and
a little farther on to the dairy, a very nice, cool round one.
The Duchess told Brown to open the sitting-room, and
we found it occupied by a policeman in bed, which we
were not at all prepared for, and which caused much
amusement. Florence, Jane Churchill, and Fraulein Bauer
had joined us here, and shortly after the Duke did so too.
We walked back through the kitchen garden, which is
very well kept, and the Duke also showed us where he
has a quantity of young salmon which are artificially
hatched, and also a new apparatus for watering grass.
We came home by the steps again. There is plenty of
shade, but rather too many trees. The old part of the
Castle is as old as the twelfth century. The late Duke
enlarged it and added on the towers, and finished the
new part in 1849-50.
In at a quarter to twelve. A dull muggy day. We
lunched as we breakfasted. Afterwards reading, etc., and
at twenty minutes past four drove out in the waggon-
ette (Bourner* driving, as I had sent my own carriage
and ponies) with the Duchess, Constance Westminster,
and Jane Churchill. We drove past the monument
of the late Duke, which faces the Castle and is out-
side the gates, close to which is the Duke's private little
station, used only by the family rather near, for it can-
not be above five hundred yards from the house, but
it is very well managed, so as to be but little seen. We
drove by the four cross-roads, turning to the left through
Dunrobin Wood, which is really very pretty, with fine
Scotch firs and other trees of all kinds, beech, oak, ash,
and birch, above and below the drives, with quantities of
lovely pink heather and ferns some parts of the drive
* My coachman and position, who has been thirty-eight years
in my service. -1 88 j.
12 9 )
are rather steep on to Bacchies, then by the Dutch
Cottage, on to Benabhraghie Drive, and stopped at the
four cross-roads to take our made tea and coffee, the
warmth of which surprised Constance and Annie very
much. We saw some deer. Drove on by the same
drive (Benabhraghie^ the name of the hill on which the
old Duke's very colossal statue stands). We stopped a
little farther on to look at a fine view of the Castle and
village, and to the right the hills which are seen farther
inland, and the blue distant hills above the coast of
Ross-shire ; then came out at Culmallie Lodge and
passed through the village of Golspie with all its pretty
decorations, and stopped at two cottages outside, when
Annie called out a nice-looking girl who makes beautiful
Shetland shawls in the one, and an oldish woman, a
character, who worked me a book-marker and lives in
the other (a double cottage under one roof). We drove
through the Golspie Burn and dairy park, along the grass
drive on the seashore below the woods, as far as
Strathstephen, and looking back had one of the finest
views of the Castle, with the hills of Cambusmore rising
behind, and, turning up into the Caithness high road,
came back to the Castle.
Home at half-past six. A dull evening. Tried to
sketch a bit of sea-view. At a quarter past eight we
had dinner in the dining-room with the Duke and
Annie (between whom I sat), Leopold, Constance
Westminster, the Granvilles, Jane Churchill, and Ronald.
I felt strange such a dinner in a strange place for the
first time without my dear one ! Brown waited on me,
and did so at all meals, attending on me indoors and
t of doors, most efficiently and indefatigably. Then
vent for a short time into the drawing-room, which is
lext my sitting-room. Here we were joined by Mrs.
K
( 130 )
Sumner (Miss Kingscote by birth, half-sister to Colonel
Kingscote and niece to Lord Bloomfield), a great friend
of the Duchess's, and who is staying in the house with
her husband, who is a great friend of the Duke's ;
Constance Pitt, a younger sister of Mary Pitt, and
travelling with her uncle and Lady Granville ; Dr. Fayrer
(a distinguished physician, who was for two years in
India)* Mr. Sumner, and Mr. Edwin Lascelles, brother
to Mary. I remained for a few minutes, and then went
to my room.
Sunday, September 8.
A fine bright morning. Breakfast as yesterday.
Directly after it, at a quarter-past ten, walked with
Beatrice along the Ladfs Walk, as it is called, which
commences near the Castle and goes for a mile and a
half entirely amongst trees, very shady, and overlooking
the sea, and with paths leading down to the sea, and
seats commanding lovely views of the sea and distant
coast. It was very warm, and the thickness of the
adjoining woods made the air feel close. We walked
back the same way, and got home at a quarter-past
eleven. At twelve there was quite a short service
performed by Dr. Gumming in the gallery which runs
round the staircase, Dr. Gumming being opposite to us.
It was over by a quarter to one. Annie then took me up
to her room, which is a very pretty one ; long, but not
high, and very light, with a very fine view above all the
trees ; very simply furnished. Her dressing-room and
bedroom equally nice and airy, like those they have at
Stafford House. The Duke's dressing-room is very
simply and plainly furnished ; he is wonderfully plain
* He travelled with Alfred, and has written a remarkable book
on snakes.
and simple in his tastes. The Duchess took me along
the passage to where Florence lives, and to the nursery
where we saw little Alix in her bed, and then by a
staircase, which belongs to the very old part of the
Castle, to the rooms which w r ere the dear late Duke's and
Duchess's, though the last time she came here she lived
in my rooms. Everywhere prints of ourselves and of
people I know. After this came down again. Luncheon
as yesterday.
At twenty minutes past four walked to the nearest
seat in the Lady's Walk, and sketched the view, and
about half-past five drove out in the waggonette with
Beatrice and Lady Granville. We drove through the
Uppat Woods, along the big burn drive, past the Pictish
Tower up to Mr. Loch's Memorial, which has the
following inscription on it by the late Duchess :
TO THE HONOURED MEMORY OF
JAMES LOCH,
WHO LOVED IN THE SERENE EVENING OF HIS LIFE
TO LOOK AROUND HIM HERE.
May his children's children gather here, and think of him whose
life was spent in virtuous labour for the land he loved and for the
Friends he served, who have raised these stones, A.D. 1858.
OBIIT JUNII 28 1855.
The heather is very rich all round here. We got out
and went into it, and there is a very fine view looking up
Dunrobin Glen and over the sea, and Birk Head, which
is the extreme point of the land which runs into the sea.
You also get a very -pretty glimpse of the Castle at the
end of a path cut through the wood. We drove down
again, and before we were out of the lower wood, which
is close down upon the sea-shore, we stopped to take our
K 2
( 132 )
tea and coffee, but were halt devoured by midges. We
then came out upon the high road, and got into the
sea-shore road, about half a mile beyond where we went
yesterday, and drove along it and in by the Dairy home
at seven. Resting, writing. Dined in our sitting-room
with our two children and Annie. Afterwards we went
into the drawing-room where the ladies and gentlemen
were, but I only stayed a short time.
Monday, September g.
Raining a little early in the day. After breakfast
drove in the waggonette with Beatrice and Jane Churchill
to the Kennel, a remarkably nice and clean one to the
left, and rather farther on than the stables, which are
close to the railway station. Mr. Macdonald, the head
keeper (who is brother to our poor Macdonald, Albert's
late Jager), whom I saw at Windsor two years ago,
showed us over them. There are fine deerhounds and
pointers and setters. We visited the Macdonalds in
their nice house, and saw their daughters, three of whom
are very good-looking and remind me of their cousins.
He is not the least like his brother. From here we went
to the stables, which are small, where my ponies were,
and where we also saw some of Annie's ponies and]
horses. Then walked home, meeting the Duke and
Ronald on the way. Two splendid Highland beasts,
which are being fattened for the Christmas show, were,
brought up to the road for me to see. We passed the
herd they belong to yesterday, when driving. These,
beasts really are beautiful, and most picturesque, with
their rough coats, shaggy heads, and immense spreading
horns; the greatest number are dun- and mouse-coloured.
At twenty-five minutes past twelve I started with the two
( '33 )
children and Annie for the laying of the first stone of
the Memorial to be raised by the clansmen and servants
to the memory of my dear Duchess of Sutherland, who
was adored in Sutherland. We drove in the barouche
and four. The rain had quite ceased. Everyone else
had gone on before; the Duke waited to help us in,
and then ran on followed by MacAlister, his piper,
valet, and confidential servant a short stout man of
sixty, I should say an excellent man, and first-rate
piper. We got out, and I went up on a platform, which
was covered over and close to the stone, with the children,
Annie, the Duke, Constance, and Jane Churchill. All
the others, and many spectators, stood around. Mr.
Joass, the minister there, offered up a short prayer, and
after it presented (but did not read) the Address. I then
answered what I had thought over, but spoke without
reading:
" It gives me great pleasure to testify on this occasion
my love and esteem for the dear Duchess, my valued
friend, with whose children I am happy to be now staying,
and I wish also to express my warm thanks for the loyal
and hearty welcome I have met with in Sutherland"
This made me very nervous, but it was said without
hesitating. Then the usual ceremony of spreading the
mortar and of striking the stone with a mallet was gone
through. The Duke gave me a drawing of the intended
Memorial, which is to be an Eleanor cross, with a bust
of the dear Duchess, and a medal of her which Ronald
L. Gower had struck. After this we got into the carriage
again, amid the cheers of the people, and drove back.
Only Leopold walked, and Constance took his place in
the carriage. We were in before one. Almost directly
afterwards Beatrice and I went into the ante-room (where
| all the company who afterwards had luncheon were
( 134 )
assembled) with Annie and the Duke, who presented
some people to me; amongst others a very old lady, Mrs.
Houston by name, who is between eighty and ninety,
and was a great friend of the dear Duchess and of the
Duchess of Norfolk. She was quite overcome, and said,
"Is that my dear Queen," and, taking the Duke's hand,
" and my darling Duke ? "
Luncheon as usual. After it saw Lord Granville.
At a quarter past four drove out in the waggonette, drawn
by four of the Duke's horses, with Beatrice, Annie, and
Constance. It was fine though not very bright weather,
and windy. We drove to the top of Benabhraghie, or the
Monument Hill, on which is the very colossal statue of
the Duke's grandfather, the first Duke, who married the
Countess of Sutherland, from whom this enormous pro-
perty came. She died in 1839, and I remember her
quite well as a very agreeable, clever old lady. We drove
through part of the wood by the way we went the pre-
vious days, up the big burn drive and through Bacchies,
looking up Dunrobin Glen, which is very wild; and the
pink heathery hills, though not very high, and the moor,
with distant hills, were very pretty. It is a long pull
upwards on a grass drive, which makes it very hard work
for the horses. Halfway up we stopped to take tea and
coffee; and before that, Brown (who has an extraordinary
eye for it, when driving quite fast, which I have not)
espied a piece of white heather, and jumped off to pick
it. No Highlander would pass by it without picking it,
for it is considered to bring good luck. We got a very i
extensive view, though not quite clear, of endless hills 1
between this and the west coast all the Duke's property]
where the Westminsters have two if not three forests!
of the Duke's.
In fine weather seven counties are to be seen in]
( '35 )
the other direction, looking towards Ross-shire and the
Moray Frith^ but it was not clear enough for this. We
saw distinctly Ben Rinnes, a highish hill that rises in the
distance above a long stretch of low land extending into
the sea, which belongs to the Duke of Richmond. We
drove down the hill the same way, but afterwards took
a different turn into the high-road, and home by Golspie
and the Lodge by seven. The dear pretty little girl came
to see me. Beatrice brought in Lilah Grosvenor, who
had just arrived. Dined at a quarter-past eight in the
dining-room, as on Saturday. The same people exactly,
with the addition of Colonel Ponsonby. We had some
sheep's head, which I tasted for the first time on Sunday,
and think really very good. Remained a little while in
the drawing-room, and the Duke presented Mr. Stanley,
the discoverer of Livingstone. He talked of his meeting
with Livingstone, who he thinks will require eighteen
months to finish the work on which he is bent. Sir
Henry Rawlinson was also there.
Then went to my room and Jane read.
Tuesday ', September 10.
Very fine. Our usual breakfast. At half-past ten
got on my pony Maggie, Annie and Jane Churchill
walking, and went to see the Golspie Burn Falls. We
made two mistakes before we got right. We went out
by the usual approach down to the mill, and past the
mill under the great arch for the railway, over some
very rough stones in the river, and then along a path in
the wood full of hazel bushes and trees of all kinds, till
the glen narrows very much, and we came to a wooden
bridge, where I got off and walked to the head of the
falls over several foot-bridges, along a small path over-
( 136 )
hung by high rocks and full of rich vegetation. It is
extremely pretty, reminding me of Corriemulzie, only on
a much smaller scale. I mounted my pony again, and
rode home the same way about twelve. Very warm.
We had a few drops of rain, but it remained very fine all
day.
At ten minutes to four started with the two children
and Annie Sutherland in my waggonette for Loch Brora,
which is nine miles off. We drove past the stables out
on the main Caithness road, through the small fishing
village of Brora, where all the people were out, and
where they had raised a triumphal arch and decorated
the village with heather. We turned sharp to the left,
and came into a wild moor country, stopping for a
moment at a place where one of the new coal mines
which the Duke has found is being worked. One of
these, near the sea, we had passed on Sunday. Then on,
till we came very soon to the commencement of Loch
Brora, which is seven miles in length, very narrow at
first, and out of which the Brora flows into the sea.
The hills heighten as the loch widens, and to the left as
we drove along the Carrol Hill rises very finely with
bold rocks up above the loch. An hour's drive took us
to the Fishing Cottage, a small wooden house, built like
a chalet, which is just off the road, on the grass. Here
we got out. The Duke drove his break, four horses in
hand. They had never been together before, and it was
not easy to drive them, for the road is full of turnings
and rather narrow. Lord Granville sat on the box with
him; and Constance Westminster, Jane Churchill, the
Duchess de San Arpino (who had just arrived, and is a
great friend of the Duchess) and Lady Granville were
inside, and two grooms sitting behind. The three young
ladies, and Mr. Collins, and Colonel Ponsonby followed
in the waggonette. They had started before us, but we
caught them up at Brora. MacAlister had broiled some
fish and got tea ready for us in a very small room upstairs
in this little cottage, where there was a fire. I had my
coffee. We ladies and Leopold all squeezed into this
room. It was a very merry tea. The tea over, we all
went down to see a haul of fish. It was very successful;
quantities of brilliantly red char, trout, and two salmon,
both of which had to be put back again. After this haul
I went up and sat sketching on the balcony while there
were several more hauls, which Macdonald the keeper
superintended, and some walked, and others rowed. The
view, looking towards the Carrol Hill, was lovely, and the
colouring beautiful.
The ladies and gentlemen rowed across, having sent
the carriages round, but I preferred terra firma, and
drove round the loch to where the Black- Water runs into
Loch Brora, and is literally black ; we drove over it.
The Duchess told us that there was a fine drive into a
wild country up that glen. We drove along the loch side,
really a beautiful drive, under the Carrol Rock or Hill,
through the Carrol Wood ; the trees seem to grow re-
markably well there. We saw some deer on the very
top of the hills. As we drove along the loch, some
high hills were seen rising up behind the low ones on the
opposite side, one of which, called Ben Arlmin, is in the
Duke's nearest deer-forest.
We turned to the right, passing by moors which the
Duke has cultivated wonderfully with the steam plough,
and came back through Uppat, stopping near Mr. Loch's
place, Uppat, where, in early days, the late Duke and
Duchess used to live when they were Lord and Lady
Gower. Mr. Loch's father was the commissioner for the
late Duke, and the present Mr. Loch (whom I remember
( '33 )
in a similar capacity at Worsley^ Lord Ellesmere's, in
1851) is commissioner to the present Duke. Mrs. Loch,
and her daughter, and little granddaughter, who gave me
a nosegay, were there. And the Dol schoolchildren were
drawn up outside the school. We got home through the
woods at twenty minutes past seven. Dinner was at
half-past eight in the dining-room, the same as before,
only with the addition of the Duchess of San Arpino and
Sir Henry Rawlinson, and the omission of Lord Ronald
L. Gower and Colonel Ponsonby.
I must now describe the dining-room. It is not a
very large room, but a pretty one ; with wood panelling
and a portrait of the first Duchess's father, the Earl of
Sutherland, at one end, and a beautiful chalk drawing,
by Landseer, of two deer in the snow, one having been
killed by the other. Stags' heads are round the room,
and behind one (a very fine one) gaspipes have been
introduced, which light up each point. In each panel
along the sides of the room are paintings after Thorwald-
sen's statues. By daylight the room is dark. We had
some haggis at dinner to-day, and some sheep's head
yesterday. MacAlister had walked round the table each
of the previous days playing, but to-day it was my piper,*
Willie Leys ; and afterwards they played together in the
next room. Went again for a little while into the draw-
ing-room, which is handsome, and about the size of the
dining-room, and cheerfully arranged with tables and
ornaments. The paper on the walls is dark red. There
is a little turret at one end of it, and windows en two
sides, and it opens into the ante-room, which again opens
into the library. There is a full-length picture of me in
the ante-room. The dining-room is a detached room on
* He left my service in 1876.
( 139 )
the other side ; and the billiard-room is close opposite to
my sitting-room. Jane Churchill again read to me in my
room.
Wednesday, September n.
A dull morning. The military manoeuvres in the
South seem to be going on very satisfactorily, and every
one praises dear Arthur, his indefatigable zeal and pains.
It is very gratifying. At a quarter to eleven walked with
Jane Churchill and the Duke down to the small museum
in the garden, which is very nicely arranged, and where
there is a very interesting collection of Celtic ornaments,
some of which are quite perfect, and have been very well
imitated, and of all sorts of odd and curious Celtic remains,
weapons, utensils, etc., and a very fine large collection of
all the birds found at or near Dunrobin. Mr. Joass, the
minister, was there to explain everything to us.
We took a short turn, and came home at half-past
eleven, as it rained. We met little Alix on her wee pony.
We also saw the Duchess's Norwegian cariole and pony.
(Busy choosing presents to give away ; and after our
usual luncheon there was some more arranging about
these presents.) Painting the view of the sea from my
window. At ten minutes to four started in the waggonette,
with the two children and Annie. The Duke, the other
ladies, Ronald L. Gower, Colonel Ponsonby, and Sir
Henry Rawlinson had gone on in the drag. W r e drove
out by the West Lodge, through Golspie, on the road (on
part of which we had come before) under the Silver Hill,
a very pretty wooded road, and turned to the right across
the Mound, an embankment constructed by the first Duke
to make a communication across an arm of the sea, called
Loch Fleet, which comes in there. This Mound "spans
Strath fleet" Near it is a railway station.
We then drove through a very pretty glen, with fine
hills, to Dornoch, along the shore of Dornoch Frith, past
Cambusmore (though not near the house, which lies up in
the wood at the foot of the fine hill of that name), on
through woods for some way, till we suddenly emerged
on lower ground and saw the steeple of Dornoch Church,
formerly a cathedral.
We turned sharp to the left, and went into Dornoch ;
quite a small place, but the capital of Sutherland, now
much out of the world, as the railway does not go near it.
It is a small fishing town, smaller than Golspie. There
was an arch with a Gaelic inscription, and the houses
were decorated with flowers, heather, and green boughs,
and many people out. We drove to the door of the so-
called cathedral ; though I had not intended doing it,
I got out there, and walked up the large kirk. The late
Duke's father and mother are buried there, as were six-
teen Earls of Sutherland ; and there is a statue of the
old Duke in marble. The cathedral was built by Gilbert
de Moravia, Bishop from 1 223 to 1260, at his own expense.
St. Gilbert was related to the Sutherlands, who had then
recently acquired that vast territory, " the Southern land
of Caithness" which now gives the title to their descendant,
the present and third Duke. In a very ancient stone
sarcophagus are the bones of Richard Murray, brother
to the Bishop. We only remained a few minutes in the
church, and then went out by another door, where we got
into the carriage. There is a curious old tower opposite
the church, which was part of the Bishop's Palace. The
people were very enthusiastic, and an old fishwife, with
her creel on her back, bare legs and feet, and very short
petticoat (we met many such about Dunrobiri), began
waving a handkerchief, and almost dancing, near the end
of the place as we drove away. Brown motioned to her
to come on, and threw her something, which the poor old
thing ran to pick up. We stopped when we had regained
the wood to take our tea and coffee, and were joined by
the Duke's drag just as we had finished.
We changed our road, going by Embo and Skelbo,
the model farm of the late Duke, and drove up to
Cambitsmore, the pretty little cottage of Mr. and Mrs.
Bateson. There is a small garden in front. The two
children got out, and so did all the others, but I begged
to remain in the carriage, as I was tired. However, I
afterwards got out ; and certainly the little cottage is
most charmingly fitted up with deer's heads, pretty prints,
and pretty things of all kinds. They asked me to write
my name in a book, which I did, sitting in the carriage.
From here we drove back again the same way; and
the evening was very fine, and the sky beautiful, red and
every possible bright colour. As we drove along, before
reaching Cambusmore we saw the high land of Caithness,
a good way beyond Brora. Back by seven. Dined
with the two children in my own room, and then went
for a short while into the drawing-room ; then wrote, and
at half-past eleven left Dunrobin, with the two children
and Annie, in the Duke's carriage, the Duke (in the kilt)
helping us in, and then walking, with MacAlister after
him, up the approach, straight to the private station,
which is about five hundred yards from the house.
There were many people out, and the whole was
brilliantly illuminated by Egyptian and red and blue
lights. At the station all the ladies and gentlemen were
assembled, and I wished them all good-bye, and then
got into the train, having kissed Annie, and Constance,
and the two girls, and shaken hands with the Duke, who,
as well as the Duchess, had been most kind.
It was half-past twelve before I lay down. Beatrice
did so sooner.
( 142 )
Thursday, September 12.
I had not slept much, but the journey was very quiet.
At eight we were at Ballater. A splendid morning. We
drove off at once, Beatrice, Leopold, and I in one
carriage, and reached dear Balmoral safely at a quarter to
nine A.M.
Felt as though all had been a dream, and that it was
hardly possible we should have been only last night at
DunroMn, and dined there.
( 143 )
DR. NORMAN MACLEOD.
[March, 1873. I am anxious to put on record all my
recollections of my dear and valued friend Dr. Norman
Macleod, who has been taken from us, and whose loss is
more deeply felt every day.
I have therefore made the following extracts from my
journal since the year 1861, when my heavy misfortune
brought me into very close contact with him.]
Balmoral, Sunday, May 11, 1862.
Hurried to be ready for the service which Dr. Mac-
leod was kindly going to perform. And a little before
ten I went down with Lenchen and Affie (Alice being
still in bed unwell) to the dining-room, in which I had
not yet been. The ladies and gentlemen were seated
behind me, the servants, including Grant and some of
the other Highlanders, opposite. And never was service
more beautifully, touchingly, simply, and tenderly per-
formed. There was the opening prayer, then the reading
from Scripture, which was most beautifully selected as
follows : the twenty-third chapter of Job, the forty-second
Psalm, the fourteenth chapter of St. John, some of the
first verses, and then from the twenty-third verse to the
end, and the seventh chapter of Revelations to the end.
( 144 )
All so applicable. After this came another prayer, and
then the sermon, entirely extempore, taken from the twelfth
chapter of the Epistle to the Hebrews to the thirteenth
verse, also alluding to the tenth chapter, and occasionally
turning to the Corinthians. The sermon was admirable,
all upon affliction, God's love, our Saviour's sufferings,
which God would not spare Him, the blessedness of
suffering in bringing us nearer to our eternal home, where
we should all be together, and where our dear ones were
gone on before us. He concluded with another prayer,
in which he prayed most touchingly for me. The
children and I were much affected on coming upstairs.
Monday, May 12.
On coming home in the afternoon, Dr. Macleod
came to see me, and was so clever, agreeable, kind, and
good. We talked of dear Albert's illness, his readiness
to go hence at all times, with which Dr. Macleod was much
struck, and said what a beautiful state of mind he must
always have been in how unselfish how ready to do
whatever was necessary; and I exemplified this by describ-
ing his cheerfulness in giving up all he liked and enjoyed,
and being just as cheerful when he changed to other cir-
cumstances, looking at the bright and interesting side of
them ; like, for instance, going from here to Windsor and
from Windsor to London, leaving his own dear home,
etc., and yet being always cheerful, which was the reverse
with me. He spoke of the blessing of living on with
those who were gone on before. An old woman, he
said, whom he knew, had lost her husband and several of
her children, and had had many sorrows, and he asked
her how she had been able to bear them, and she
answered : ' Ah ! when he went awa' it made a great hole,
( 145 )
and all the others went through it." * And so it is, most
touchingly and truly expressed, and so it will ever be
with me.
Balmoral^ Sunday, August 24, 1862.
At ten service was performed by Dr. Macleod down-
stairs, again very beautifully. His selections were very
good : the hundred and third Psalm, part of the eleventh
chapter of Isaiah, and then before his sermon, the
fourth chapter of Philippians, sixth verse, which was the
text : " Be careful for nothing ; but in everything by
arayer and supplication with thanksgiving let your re-
quests be made known unto God," and part of the
eleventh chapter of St. Luke, fifth verse : " Which of
shall have a friend, and shall go unto him at midnight,
and shall say unto him, Friend, lend me three loaves ? "
As usual, it made a deep impression.
After dinner, in the evening, I went over to Mrs.
Bruce's room, and there Dr. Macleod joined us, and was
so kind, so comforting, and so cheering. He expressed
jreat admiration of my dearest Albert's statue (the cast
of which was standing in the vestibule below). His eyes
were full of tears, and he said his loss was felt more and
more. I showed him a drawing of the mausoleum, and
he said, " Oh ! he is not there," which is so true ; and
again, when admiring the photograph of the reclining
statue by Marochetti, he added, " But I think he is more
like the statue below," which is a beautiful and a true
idea. He looks so truly at the reality of the next life.
* I since hear that this poor woman was not personally known
k) Dr. Macleod, but that her remark was related to him by Dr.
Black, his predecessor in the Barony Parish, Glasgow. Her words
were : "When he was ta'en, it ma;le sic' a hole in my heart that a'
other sorrows gang lichtly through."
( '46 )
Sunday ', May 24, 1863.
My poor birthday !
At a quarter past ten service was performed by Dr.
Macleod. All the children but Baby there. He read
the ninetieth and hundred and third Psalms ; part of
the twenty-fourth chapter of St. Matthew, ninth verse :
"All hail." His sermon very fine, but he read it, not
having had time to prepare one by thinking the subject
over, or even by the help of mere notes. I saw him in
the evening, and he was most kind and sympathising.
Sunday, October 9, 1864.
At four, went to kirk with Lenchen and Augusta
Stanley. Dr. Macleod performed the service admirably,
and gave us a very striking sermon, all extempore, and
appealing very strongly to the people's feelings. Saw
good Dr. Macleod afterwards, and was much upset in
talking to him of my sorrows, anxieties, and overwhelming
cares ; and he was so kind and sympathising, so en-'
couraging and full of that faith and hope which alone can
comfort and sustain the broken heart. In his sermon he
spoke of there being peace without happiness, and happiness*
without peace, which is so true.
Balmoral, Sunday, June n, 1865.
At twelve, went (a great effort) to the kirk with the
girls and the Duchess of Athole. I had only been once
at the end of our stay last year in October, in the after-
noon, and it made me very nervous. Still, as no one
expected me to go, it was better so. Dr. Macleod per-
formed the service most impressively. His sermon was
( 147 )
from i Thessalonians iv. 10. No one reads the Bible
better than he does, and his prayers were most beautiful.
In the one for me, which he always words so expressively
and touchingly, he prayed for Alix and her dear babe
very beautifully. The singing and the whole service
brought tears to my eyes. I felt so alone ! All reminded
me of former blessedness.
Balmoral, Saturday, October 14, 1865.
After dinner Dr. Macleod gave us a long account of
that dreadful Dr. Pritchard,* and his interviews with him.
Never in his life had he seen anything so dreadful as
this man's character and his wonderful untruthfulness.
Dr. Macleod afterwards came upstairs, and read to
Lenchen and me out of Burns most beautifully.
Sunday, October 15, 1865.
At twelve we went to the kirk, where dear Dr. Mac-
leod performed the service more beautifully than I ever
heard it. The sermon was touching, and most striking
and useful. It touched and struck all. The text was
from Genesis iii. 13 : " And the Lord God said unto the
\voman, What is this that thou hast done ? "
And then he showed how we all had a secret life
which no one knew but God, and showed the frightful
danger of living a life of deception till you deceived your-
self, and no longer knew wrong from right. I wish I
could repeat all he said, but it was admirable. Then in
his beautiful prayers he brought in a most touching
allusion to Lord Palmerston,f and prayed for him.
* He had poisoned his wife and his wife's mother, and Dr.
Macleod attended him in prison.
f He was dying, and expired on October 18.
L ?.
( 143 )
Balmoral, Sunday, June 17, 1866.
We went at twelve to the kirk, and Dr. Macleod gave
us a beautiful sermon from St. Mark ix. 38, etc. It was
very fine, so large-minded and charitable, much against
party spirit and want of charity, and showed how thoroughly
charity, in its highest form, existed in our Saviour.
. . . The Duchess of Athole and Dr. Macleod dined
with me. He was so amiable, and full of sympathy ; he
also suffers much from constant work and worry, and must
go abroad for relaxation. Told him how much I required
it, and that I came here for it, and had had a hard fight
for it He said he quite felt this, and entreated me
" as you work for us " always to insist upon coming here.
I said my dearest Albert had injured himself by never
giving himself enough rest ; and we spoke of the absolute
necessity of complete relaxation occasionally, and of the
comfort of it.
Balmoral, Sunday, September 16, 1866.
The church was very full and the atmosphere very
close. Dr. Macleod preached admirably, especially the
latter part of the sermon, when he preached extempore,
and spoke of our responsibilities which made us work out
our salvation. God wished us all to be saved, but we
must work that out ourselves. And we might by our own
fault not be saved. The first part was read, he having told
me the night before that he felt nervous, and must read it.
Balmoral, Thiirsday, September 20, 1867.
Good Dr. Macleod (who arrived yesterday, for two
nights) came to talk to me for some little time while I
was sitting out. He spoke most kindly, and said enough
to show how shocked he was at my many worries, but
said also that he was convinced of the great loyalty of
the nation, and that I should take courage.
On the next day, the 2ist, he came to take leave of
me, as he was going to India, sent by the General
Assembly to look after the missions. He is only going
for six months ; still, his life is so valuable that it is a
great risk. He was much affected in taking leave of me,
and said, " If I should not return, I pray God to carry
your Majesty through all your trials."
Balmoral, Saturday, October 10, 1868.
Mr. Van de Weyer and good Dr. Macleod, who is
looking ill, and rather broken, and with a long beard,
dined with us.*
Sunday, October 11.
All to kirk at twelve. Christian and Franz t sat in
the Abergeldie pew. Dr. Macleod performed the service,
and I never heard a finer sermon, or more touching prayer
for me. The text, St. Luke ix. 33 : " Peter said unto
Jesus, Master, it is good for us to be here . . . not
knowing what he said."
Saw Dr. Macleod, who talked, as also last night, of
India, and of the disturbances in the Church.
Balmoral, Sunday, June 6, 1 869.
To kirk with Louise, Leopold, Baby (Beatrice), and
Christian. Dr. Macleod (who arrived last night) performed
the service, and admirably, speaking so much to the heart.
* He had only lately returned from India,
f The Prince and Princess Christian of Schleswig-Holstein and
the Prince and Princess of Te :k were on a visit.
( '5 )
The prayers were beautiful, and so was the sermon. It
was so full of truth and simple good advice, telling us to
act according to the spirit of what is told us, and according
to what we felt was right The text from i Peter iv. 21.
Afterwards saw dear Dr. Macleod, whom I find a good
deal altered and aged. He is Moderator of the General
Assembly for this year, and spoke with much pleasure of
the unanimity prevailing, and of the good feeling shown
towards him ; and regretted much this Irish Church Bill.
Balmoral, Sunday, October 3, 1869.
At twelve, went with our children to the kirk. Dr.
Macleod preached a fine sermon, and gave us two
beautiful prayers as usual. The text was from Matthew
xxvi. 30.
I saw Dr. Macleod before dinner. He is greatly
alarmed for the Established Church of Scotland, as he
fears that an attempt will be made to pull that down
also ; though, thank God, there is no difference of form
or doctrine there, and were this to happen, the Free
Church and United Presbyterians, with the present
Established Church, would become one very strong
Protestant body. I also asked him about Lord Lome,
and he said he had a very high opinion of him ; that he
had long known him, and had prepared him for confirma-
tion, that he thought very highly of him, and had a great
respect for him, and that he had fine, noble, elevated
feelings.
Sunday, October 2, 1870.
A very fine morning after a frost. The sun intensely
hot. Dear Leopold breakfasted with us out of doors.
Sat out for a short while. To the kirk at twelve. It was
not so stifling. Dr. Macleod gave us such a splendid
sermon on the war, and without mentioning France, he
said enough to make everyone understand what was meant
(when he pointed out how God would punish wickedness,
and vanity, and sensuality; and the chapters he read from
Isaiah xxviii., and from Ezekiel, Amos, and one of the
Psalms, were really quite wonderful for the way in which
they seemed to describe France]. It was all admirable and
heart- stirring. Then the prayers were beautiful in which
he spoke of the sick, the dying, the wounded, the battle-
field, and my sons-in-law and daughters. We all came
back deeply impressed.
Monday, October 3.
Dr. Macleod came to wish me good-bye. He yester-
day again told me what a very high opinion he had of
Lord Lome, how good, excellent, and superior he thought
him in every way, and the whole family so good.
Balmoral, June , 1871.
Dear Dr. Macleod was unable to come during my
present stay here, having been unwell in the winter. He
has gone abroad to Ems.
Balmoral, Stinday, November 5, 1871.
At a little before twelve, went to kirk with Baby and
Janie Ely, for the first time after a very severe illness a
great pleasure to me who am so fond of going to the
dear little church here. Brown helped me up and down
the steep staircase, but I found no great difficulty. Dr.
Macleod (who arrived yesterday evening at the Castle)
performed the service, which he made purposely rather
short for me. He gave us a beautiful sermon, the text
from St. Matthew vi. 9 : "Our Father, who art in
heaven ; " and he preached upon the great importance,
as well as comfort, of our looking on God as a Father,
and not as a judge or "magistrate," to use a homely
phrase. He also gave an admirable explanation of the
Sacrament, which he announced was to be given next
Sunday, explaining that it was not a miracle, which people
often consider it to be. Back by quarter past one, much
edified.
He came to see me before dinner.
Monday, November 6, 1871.
Had a long and satisfactory talk with Dr. Macleod
after luncheon to-day again.
Balmoral, Sunday, May 26, 1872.
To kirk at twelve, with Baby and the ladies, etc. Dr.
Macleod preached a very fine sermon, full of love and
warm feeling, upon future life and hope. The text was
from St. Matthew v. 9, " Thy kingdom come." But I
was grieved to see him looking ill.
After luncheon saw good Dr. Macleod, who was very
depressed and looking very ill, and willingly sat down
at my request. He said he was quite broken down from
hard work, and would have to give up his house in
Glasgow (where he has not a moment's rest), and his
Indian mission work, etc. He feels all this much, but it
is unavoidable. He did too much. He has never
recovered from the effects of his visit to India. He is,
however, going to America for some months, and has
refused everything in the way of preaching and lectures.
He talked much of a future life, and his certainty of there
being a continuation there of God's educational purposes,
which had commenced in this world, and would work on
towards the final triumph of good over evil, and the
extinction of sin.
Balmoral, Monday, May 27, 1872.
Saw and wished good Dr. Macleod good-bye, with
real regret and anxiety. Towards the end of dinner,
yesterday, he cheered up, having hardly talked at all
during the course of it.
Balmoral, Sunday, June 16, 1872.
We had come home at five minutes past eight ; I had
wished Brown good-night, and was just going to my
dressing-room, when he asked to come in again and say
a few words to me. He came in, and said, very kindly,
that he had seen Colonel Ponsonby, and that there was
rather bad news of Dr. Macleod, who was very ill, in fact
that they were afraid he was dead ! Oh ! what a blow !
How dreadful to lose that dear, kind, loving, large-hearted
friend ! My tears flowed fast, but I checked them as much
as I could, and thanked good Brown for the very kind
way he broke this painful and most unexpected news to
me. I sent for and told Leopold, who was quite stunned
by it, and all my maids. Every one was most deeply
grieved the Duchess of Athole, Janie Ely, Miss Mac-
Gregor, Colonel Ponsonby, and Dr. Taylor, who was so
overcome as hardly for some time to be able to speak. The
loss, he and we all felt, was quite irreparable. Dr. Taylor
knew (which I did not) that he had been very ill for a week,
and that he might die at any moment, and that the long
and most admirable speech which he made in the
Assembly had been far too much for him. That was on
the 3oth. Still we all hoped that rest would have re-
stored him. How thankful I felt that I had seen him so
lately ! When the Duchess came upstairs, we could speak
of little else. After she left, and I was alone, I cried very
bitterly, for this is a terrible loss to me.
( 154 )
Monday, June 17.
When I awoke the sad truth flashed upon me, which
is doubly painful, as one is unaware of the reality on
first waking.
After breakfast, when I thought of my dear friend
Dr. Macleod, and all he had been to me how in 1862-
63-64 he had cheered, and comforted, and encouraged
me how he had ever sympathised with me, and how
much I always looked forward to the few occasions I had
of seeing him when we went to Balmoral, and that this
too, like so many other comforts and helps, was for ever
gone I burst out crying.
Yesterday evening we heard by telegraph from Mr.
Donald Macleod (for the first news came from the
Glasgow telegraph clerk to Warren*) that his dear
brother had died at twelve that morning.
I telegraphed to all my children, and could think of
nothing else. I try to dwell on all he said, for there was
no one to whom in doubts and anxieties on religion I
looked up with more trust and confidence, and no one
ever reassured and comforted me more about my children.
I remember that he expressed deep satisfaction at hearing
such good accounts of them. . . . And then he seemed
so full of trust and gratitude to God. He wrote a
beautiful letter to Janie Ely on his birthday (June 3), in
answer to my inquiries after him, of which I annex the
copy. His words seemed almost prophetic !
June 3, 1872.
Dear Lady Ely, Whether it is that my head is empty
or my heart full, or that both conditions are realised in my
* My own telegraph clerk.
experience, the fact, however, is that I cannot express myself
as I feel in replying to your Ladyship's kind far too kind
note, which I received when in the whirlwind or miasma of
Assembly business.
Thanks deep and true to you, and to my Sovereign Lady,
for thinking of me. I spoke for nearly two hours in the
Assembly, which did me no good, nor, I fear, to any other.
I was also to preach yesterday. As I have nice summer
quarters, I much hope to recruit, so as to cast off this dull,
hopeless sort of feeling.
I ought to be a happy, thankful man to-day. I am to-
day sixty, and round my table will meet my mother, my
wife, and all my nine children, six brothers, sisters, and two
aunts one eighty-nine, the other seventy-six ; and all these
are a source of joy and thanksgiving ! Why such mercies
to me, and such sufferings as I often see sent to the rest on
earth ?
God alone knows ! I don't see how He always acts as a
wise, loving, and impartial Father to all His children. What
we know not now, we shall know hereafter. Let us trust
when we cannot trace.
God bless the Queen for all her unwearied goodness ! I
admire her as a woman, love her as. a friend, and reverence
her as a Queen ; and you know that what I say I feel. Her
courage, patience, and endurance are marvellous to me.
(Signed) N. MACLEOD.
March 1873.
Dear Dr. Macleod likewise came to Balmoral, and
preached there, on the following occasions : October n,
1863, May 24, 1864 (my birthday, after his visit to the
Holy Land}, on May 27, 1867, and on May 29, 1869.
When I last saw him I was greatly distressed at his
depression and sadness, and instead of my looking to
him to cheer and encourage me, I tried to cheer him.
He said he had been ordered to give up all work, and
to give up his house at Glasgow, merely continuing to
preach at the Barony Church ; and that then they gave
him hopes of a recovery, but it was not at all certain.
He must give up the Indian Mission, which was a great
sorrow to him ; and he meant to take the opportunity of re-
signing it in person, to say what he felt so strongly, though
others might not be pleased. He meant to go to America
in August, merely to recruit his health and strength ; and
he had refused every invitation for dinners, or to lecture
or preach. He had not much confidence, he said, in his
recovery, but he might be wrong. All was in God's
hands. " It is the nature of Highlanders to despond
when they are ill," he added. He hoped God would
allow him to live a few years longer, for his children,
and to be able to go on with " Good Words." He dwelt
then, as always, on the love and goodness of God, and
on his conviction that God would give us, in another
life, the means to perfect ourselves and to improve
gradually. No one ever felt so convinced, and so anxious
as he to convince others, that God was a loving Father,
who wished all to come to Him, and to preach of a
living personal Saviour, One who loved us as a brother
and a friend, to whom all could and should come with
trust and confidence. No one ever raised and strength-
ened one's faith more than Dr. Macleod. His own faith
was so strong, his heart so large, that all high and low,
weak and strong, the erring and the good could alike
find sympathy, help, and consolation from him.
How I loved to talk to him, to ask his advice, to
speak to him of my sorrows, my anxieties !
But, alas ! how impossible I feel it to be to give any
adequate idea of the character of this good and distin-
guished man ! So much depended on his personal charm
of manner, so warm, genial, and hearty, overflowing with
kindness and the love of human nature ; and so much
depended on himself, on knowing and living with hin^
that no one who did not do so can truly portray him.
And, indeed, how can any one, alas, who has not known
or seen a person, ever imagine from description what he
is really like ?
He had the greatest admiration for the beauties of
nature, and was most enthusiastic about the beautiful
wild scenery of his dear country, which he loved intensely
and passionately. When I said to him, on his last visit,
that I was going to take some mineral waters when I
went south, he pointed to the lovely view from the
windows, looking up the glen of the Dee, and said : " The
fine air in these hills, and the quiet here, will do your
Majesty much more good than all the waters." His
wife, he said, had urged him to come, though he felt so
ill. " It always does you good to go to Balmoral" she
told him. He admired and loved the national music of
his country, and wrote the following description of it,
most kindly, as a preface to a book of Pipe Music
published by my head piper, William Ross:
THE BAGPIPE AND ITS MUSIC.
BY THE REV. DR. NORMAN MACLEOD.
The music of the Highlands is the pibroch of the great
war-pipe, with its fluttering pennons, fingered by a genuine
Celt, in full Highland dress, as he slowly paces a baronial
hall, or amidst the wild scenery of his native mountains.
The bagpipe is the instrument best adapted for summoning
the clans from the far-off glens to rally round the standard
of their chiefs or for leading a Highland regiment to the
attack amidst the roar of battle. The pibroch is also con-
structed to express a welcome to the chief on his return to
his clan, and to wail out a lament for him as he is borne by
( '58 )
his people to the old burial-place in the glen or in the
sainted Isle of Graves. To those who understand its care-
fully composed music there is a pathos and depth of feeling
suggested by it which a Highlander alone can fully sympa-
thise with ; associated by him as it always is with the most
touching memories of his home and country ; recalling the
faces and forms of the departed ; spreading forth before his
inward eye panoramas of mountain, loch, and glen, and
reviving impressions of his early and happiest years. And
thus, if it excites the stranger to laughter, it excites the
Highlander to tears, as no other music can do, in spite of
the most refined culture of his after life. It is thus, too,
that what appears to be only a tedious and unmeaning
monotony in the music of the genuine pibroch, is not so to
one under the magic influence of Highland associations.
There is, indeed, in every pibroch a certain monotony of
sorrow. It pervades even the " welcome," as if the young
chief who arrives recalls the memory of the old chief who
has departed. In the "lament" we naturally expect this
sadness ; but even in the " summons to battle," with all its
fire and energy, it cannot conceal what it seems already to
anticipate, sorrow for the slain. In the very reduplication
of its hurried notes, and in the repetition of its one idea,
there are expressions of vehement passion and of grief
"the joy of grief," as Ossian terms it, which loves to brood
upon its own loss, and ever repeats the one desolate thought
which fills the heart, and which in the end again breaks
forth into the long and loud agonising cry with which it
began. All this will no doubt seem both meaningless and
extravagant to many, but it is nevertheless a deliberately
expressed conviction.
The characteristic poetry of the Highlands is Ossian, its
music the pibroch ; and these two voices embody the spirit
and sing the praises of " Tir na'm Beann, na'n Gleann's na
Gaisgeach " (" the land of the mountains, the glens, and the
heroes : ').
I said I was sure he would rejoice to think that it
was a Highlander who had seized O'Connor,* and he
replied, " I was deeply thankful to hear it."
He possessed a keen sense of wit and great apprecia-
tion of humour, and had a wonderful power of narrating
anecdotes. He had likewise a marvellous power of win-
ning people of all kinds, and of sympathising with the
highest and with the humblest, and of soothing and com-
forting the sick, the dying, the afflicted, the erring, and
the doubting. A friend of mine told me that if she were
in great trouble, or sorrow, or anxiety, Dr. Norman Mac-
leod was the person she would wish to go to ! And so it
was ! One felt one's troubles, weaknesses, and sorrows
would all be lovingly listened to, sympathised with, and
entered into.
I detected a sign of illness in dear Dr. Macleod's ac-
cepting, contrary to his ordinary usage, my invitation to
him to sit down, saying he could not stand well ; and I
afterwards heard he had complained greatly of fatigue in
walking back from the kirk. I said I feared India had
done him harm. He admitted it, but said, " I don't
regret it." I expressed an earnest hope that he would be
very careful of himself, and that on his return at the end
of October he would take Balmoral on his way.
When I wished him good-bye and shook hands with
him, he said, " God bless your Majesty," and the tears
were in his eyes. Only then did the thought suddenly
flash upon me, as I closed the door of my room, that I
might never see this dear friend again, and it nearly over-
came me. But this thought passed, and never did I think,
that not quite three weeks after, his noble, pure spirit
* The young man who rushed up to my carriage with a petition
and a pistol in Buckingham Palace Garden on February 29, 1872,
and was seized by Brown.
( 160 )
would be with the God and Saviour he loved and served
so well ! I have since heard that he mentioned to several
at Balmoral that he thought he should never come there
again.
I will here quote from my Journal some part of an
account of my conversations at Balmoral on August 24
and 25, 1872, with Dr. Macleod's excellent and amiable
brother, the Rev. Donald Macleod, about his dear brother
Norman :
" He (Norman) was a complete type in its noblest
sense of a Highlander and a Celt, which, as Mr. Donald
Macleod and I both observed, was peculiarly sympathetic,
attaching, and attractive. I said that since my great sor-
row in 1 86 1, I had found no natures so sympathetic and
so soothing as those of the Highlanders. . . . He (Donald
Macleod) said, ' I went to him for everything ; he was
like a father to me (he is twenty years his junior) ! His
indefatigable kindness to every one was unequalled, and
his patience was so great and he was so good.' His acts
of kindness to people whom he did not know were fre-
quent and unknown even to his family. His sense of
humour and fun was unbounded, and enabled him to win
the confidence of persons of the greatest diversity of cha-
racter. Mr. Donald Macleod thinks, however, that it was
a mercy his dear brother was taken when he was, for that
a life of inactivity, and probable infirmity, would have been
unbearable to him. ... His health had been unsatis-
factory already before he went to India, but, no doubt,
that journey had done him great harm; still he never
would have spared himself, if he thought there was a work
given to him to do. . . . His wife and children bore up
wonderfully because he had taught them to look on the
( 161 )
future state so much as a reality, and as one of such great
happiness, that they felt it would be doing wrong not to
rejoice in his joy. His faith was so strong that it held
others in a marvellous manner, and he realised the future
state and its activity, as he believed, in a most remarkable
way.
VLSIT TO INVERLOCHV, 1873.
Tuesday, September 9, 1873.
Got up at ten minutes to seven, and breakfasted with
Beatrice at twenty minutes past seven. The morning was
splendid. At five minutes past eight I left Balmoral with
Beatrice and Jane Churchill in the landau and four
(Brown on the rumble) for Ballater, whither General
Ponsonby and Dr. Fox had preceded us. We had our
own comfortable train ; Jane Churchill came with us.
Emilie Dittweiler, Annie Macdonald, Morgan, and Max-
tead (Jane's maid) went in the dresser's compartment,
and Francie with dear Noble,* with Brown next to me.
After crossing the Bridge of Dun, where we were at half-
past eleven, we had some cold luncheon, and by a quarter
to one we were at Stanley Junction, where we left the main
line from Aberdeen to the south, and turned into the
Highland Railway. Here, alas ! the distance became
indistinct, the sky grey, and we began fearing for the
afternoon. At one we passed the really beautiful valley
of Dunkeld, catching a glimpse of the cathedral and the
lovely scenery around, which interested Beatrice very
much, and made me think of my pleasant visits and ex-
cursions thence ; then passed opposite St, Crime's, the
* Another favourite and splendid collie.
Duchess's farm, by Dalguise, and saw the large Celtic
cross at Logiemit, put up to the late Duke of Athole ;
then Pitlochry ; after which we passed through the mag-
nificent Pay o/ -Killiekrankie, which we just skirted in
our long drive by Loch Toy and Loch Tummel'm. 1866.
The dull leaden sky which overhung Dunkeld continued,
and soon a wtyte veil began to cover the hills, and slight
rain came down.
We passed close by Blair, which reminded me much of
my sad visit there in 1863, when I came by this same line
to visit the late Duke ; and I could now see the great im-
provements made at the Castle. From here the railway
(running almost parallel with the road by which we went
so happily from Dahvhinnie the reverse way in 1861)
passes Dalnaspidal Station a very lonely spot then up
Drumouchter, with Loch Garry and Loch Ericht, fine and
wild, but terribly desolate and devoid of woods and
habitations, and so veiled by mist and now beating rain
as to be seen to but very -little advantage. Next comes
Dalwhinnie Station, near the inn where we slept in 1861,
having ridden over from Balmoral to Glen Fishie, and
thence down by Newton More ; consequently, the distance
across the hill is comparatively nothing, though, to avoid
posting in uncertain weather, we had to come all this way
round. At thirty-five minutes past two we reached Kin-
gussie. The station was decorated with flowers, heather,
and flags, and the Master of Lovat (now Lord Lieutenant
of Inverness-shire) and Cluny Macpherson (both of course
in kilts) were there. We waited till all our things were
put into our carriage, and then got out, in heavy rain at
that moment. We three went in the sociable, General
Ponsonby and Brown on the box, Dr. Fox and my maids
in the waggonette, the other maids and Francie with the
log and the remainder following in two other carriages.
M 2
We passed through the village of Klngitssie, where there
were two triumphal arches and decora aons, and some of
Cluny's men drawn up, and then .^n> to the left
up amongst the hills, through tfcp *c.ry fT4r long viiiige
of Newton More (which Annie MaoiumaW. wh.me kite
husband came from there, had never s*n. hu- which r,r
had driven through in 1861), and on an^t'-st deso-.-iic,
wild, heathery moors. The road skirts tne Spey, whrh
meanders through a rich green valley, hills rising grandly
in the distance and on either side. We passed the rock
of Craig Dhu, and a castle amongst trees, where there
was an arch, and the owner and his family standing
near it, and where a nosegay was presented to me. Next
we came to Cluny Castle, at the gate of which stood
Mrs. Macpherson with her family. We stopped after we
had gone past, and she came and presented me with a
nosegay.
From here the road was known to me, if I can call
going once to see it in 1847 knowing it. Very few in-
habitants, and not one village after Newton More, only
miserable little cottages and farmhouses, with a few people,
all very friendly, scattered about here and there. We
changed horses first at Laggan Bridge, having crossed the
Spey over a large stone bridge, which I well remember ;
it is near Strathmashie. Here we stopped a few minutes;
and a little girl presented me with a nosegay, and the
innkeeper gave Brown a bottle with some wine and a glass.
We were preceded the whole way by the postmaster of
Banavie, who supplied the horses; he was called McGregor,
and wore a kilt. We had only a pair of horses all alom
and after the first stage excellent ones. The roads ad-
mirable hardly any hills, though we drove through sucr
a hilly, wild country. The rain had ceased, and onlj
occasional showers came on, which did not prevent 01
seeing the very grand scenery, with the high finely pointed
and serrated mountains, as we drove along. Shortly after
changing horses we left the river and came to the beauti-
ful Loch Laggan, seven miles in length, along which the
drive goes under birch, mountain-ash laden with bright
berries, oak, alders, in profusion, and is really beautiful.
I was quite pleased to see the loch again after twenty- five
years recognised it and admired its beauty, with the
wooded promontories, its little bays, and its two little
islands, its ferry (the only communication to the other
side), and the noble hills, the two Ben Alders.
We stopped, soon after passing the ferry, in a very
secluded spot at five, and had our (made) tea in the
carriage, which was very refreshing. We at length came
opposite Ardverikie, which I so well remember, recalling
and relating, as we now drove along, many of the incidents
of our month's stay there, which was as wet as this day.
Sir John Ramsden, who has bought the property, was
standing with some other people by the roadside. At the
head of the loch is May Lodge, a pretty little place in the
style of Ardverikie, at which Mr. Ansdell, the artist, is
staying. A little beyond this we changed horses at May
(only a single house), and drove along through Glen Spean,
which is very fine and grand in some parts, the road look-
ing down upon the rapid, rushing, gushing river, as it
whirls along imbedded in rocks and overhung with wood,
while high ranges of hills, fine and pointed in shape, are
seen in the distance rising peak upon peak. Along this
road I had driven, but I had forgotten it. Before coming
to the Bridge of Roy Inn, we saw some of the celebrated
Parallel Roads quite distinctly, which are more clearly
seen farther on, and which are very interesting to all
geologists as being supposed to mark the beaches of an
inland lake, which was pent back by a great glacier in
( 166 )
Glen Spean, and subsided to different levels, as the glacier
sank or broke away at three successive periods.
The rain ceased, and we walked a little before coming
to the Bridge of Roy, where we changed horses for the
last time, and directly afterwards passed a triumphal arch
with heather and inscriptions, pipers playing, etc., and
Highlanders as well as many other people drawn up, but
we unfortunately drove past them too quickly. There was
an inscription in Gaelic on one side, and on the other
" Loyal Highlanders welcome their Queen." The papers
say that it was put up by Mrs. McDonell siKeppoch.
About three miles farther on we reached Spean Bridge,
and it was already getting dark. Here there is only an
inn, and Lord and Lady Abinger and their tenantry met
us. Lord Abinger said he had been requested to express
the people's thanks for my honouring their country with
a visit, and his little girl presented me with a large nosegay
in the name of the tenantry. We then drove on through
rather desolate moors, and the rain began to fall again
very heavily. It became quite dark, and we could just
descry mountains under which we drove. At ten minutes
past eight we arrived at Inverlochy, entering by a lodge,
which was lit up and looked cheery enough. The house
is entered through a small, neat-looking hall, and I have
three nice rooms upstairs, with the maids close by, and
Beatrice and Morgan also, just at the other side of the
passage. My sitting-room is very nice. It was nine before
we got to dinner, which I took with Beatrice and Jane,
Brown waiting on us as well as Cannon* (the footman).
The drawing-room is a large, rather handsome and well-
furnished room. We soon went up to our rooms, and
all were glad to go to bed.
* He left my service ia 1879.
Inverlochy Castle, Wednesday, September 10.
Mist on all the hills, and continuous rain ! Most
disheartening, but the views from the house beautiful,
especially from my sitting-room, which has a bow- window
with two small ones on either side, looking towards Ben
Nevis (which is close in front of it), and commands a
lovely view of Fort William (farther to the right), and of
Loch Linnhe, etc., a portion of Loch ^//(pronounced Loch
Eel] which runs up a long way, nearly twelve miles, with
the fine Moidart range, close to Glen Finnan, as a back-
ground ; and this, with Banavie and the hotel, close to
the Caledonian Canal, is distinctly seen from the other
window. This very pretty little room does not open into
any other ; next to it is Emilie Dittweiler's, next to that
my dressing-room, and Annie's room, all narrow and long,
and next again is a really large and also long room, my
bedroom, in which I had my own bed, which has been
to Switzerland, Invertrossachs, Sandringham, and Baden.
Downstairs is the dining-room, a good-sized room (in
which the gentlemen dine), also the drawing-room, and
a small library, in which we take our meals. No room
in the house opens into another. Though some of the
bedrooms are larger than those at Invertrossachs, the
servants are not so well off. After breakfast (which, as
well as luncheon, Beatrice and I always took alone) at
half-past nine, went upstairs again and looked at Brown's
room, which is a few steps lower than mine, in fact, only
a very small bath-room. Beatrice is just opposite where
I am, or rather round the corner. Jane Churchill and
the two gentlemen, upstairs, have also good rooms. As
the rain did not cease, Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and I
walked out in the grounds to the stables, which we looked
* M 4
( 168 )
at, then out at the lodge and as far as the farm, where,
however, no beasts were at the time, and on coming home
we went through the house and kitchen, servants' hall,
etc., and were in at a quarter to one. There were short
gleams of sunshine which lit up the splendid scenery, and
I sketched from my window looking up to Banavie.
Played with Beatrice on the piano. The day seemed
better, but again and again the sunshine was succeeded
by heavy showers ; still we determined to go out. So at
twenty minutes to five we three started in the sociable,
Brown on the box, with a pair of horses and a postilion
who drove extremely well. We drove past the distillery
(between this and Fort William), then turned to the right
over the suspension bridge to JBanavie, about a mile far-
ther, where there is a good hotel, quite close to the Cale-
donian Canal, which we crossed by a bridge, and drove
through Corpach, a very small village, where the horses
made a halt and turned another way, and Brown said
nearly put us into a ditch ! but we soon got all right
again, having to go on a little way to turn. We went
along the upper part of Loch Eil, the sea loch, on which
Fort William stands. It is very narrow at first, and then
widens out into a large broad loch as you approach the
head of it, beyond which is the very fine range of the
Moidart Hills, high and very serrated and bold. These
are close to Glen Finnan. The road is excellent and not
hilly, though it skirts the hills the whole time and is
very winding, with much wood, so that you drive a good
deal under trees, ash, oak, alder, and the mountain ash
which is now laden with red berries. The bright heather,
growing in tufts of the richest colour mixed with a great
deal of high tall bracken which is beginning to turn, has
a lovely effect. Here and there were some very poor
little huts, most miserable, of stone, wretchedly thatched
( 169 )
with moss and grass, and weeds growing on the roofs, very
dirty and neglected-looking, the little fields full of weeds
choking the corn, and neglected bits of garden, bushes
and brambles growing into the very window ; and yet
generally the people who looked most poor had a cow !
We passed Fassifern, which belonged to the father of
the Colonel Cameron killed at Quatre Bras, now merely
a farmhouse, and surrounded by fine trees. I think the
drive to near the head of the loch must have been nearly
ten miles ! It was a beautiful drive, in spite of the fre-
quent heavy showers of rain.
We came home at twenty minutes to eight. Good
accounts of Leopold, but the weather has been bad.
Dined as yesterday. Played on the piano with Beatrice
in the drawing-room, and then we went upstairs.
Thursday, September 1 1.
A pouring wet morning after a pouring wet night.
Could not go out all the morning. It, however, cleared
up in the afternoon, and became very bright and fine.
Just as we decided to go out at a quarter past four, it
began raining again ; however, as I left with Beatrice and
Jane in the sociable, it cleared, and was very fine for some
time. We drove out the way we came on Tuesday as
far as Spean Bridge, and then turned sharp to the left
along the Spean, under fine trees which abound in the
valleys, and in view of scattered birches which creep up
the hills. We changed horses after passing High Bridge
and an old neglected-looking churchyard, from which a
funeral party was evidently returning, as we met " a good
few" (i.e. a good many) farmers in black, and saw the
gate open and a spade near it. The road ascends to High
Bridge, commanding a very fine view over the Ben Nevis
range and the hills above Loch Lochy, of which, as we
approached the Caledonian Canal and came to a lock,
we caught a glimpse. We changed horses at Gairlochy
before crossing the canal, by the side of which flows the
Lochy. The road ascends and goes along the western
side high above the canal and river, commanding a splendid
view of Ben Nevis and the surrounding range of hills,
" the Grampians" The road is, as all the roads here are,
very good and most picturesque, winding through trees,
with small and wretched but picturesque cottages with
little bits of fields dotted here and there and with High-
land cattle grazing about. It was again rainy and show-
ery after we came to Gairlochy. We came down again
to Benavie, the hotel at which seems excellent, and were
at home by a quarter-past six. Beatrice and Jane took
some tea in the dining-room, and then took a short walk
in the grounds, cpming in at seven. Wrote. It was still
raining, but not blowing. Played after dinner on the
piano with Beatrice, and then went upstairs, and Jane
Churchill read.
Friday ', September 12.
A most beautiful bright sunshiny day. After break-
fast Mr. Newton, the artist, brought some lovely sketches.
Sketched and painted, for the views are quite lovely, from
my room. At eleven drove in the waggonette with
Beatrice and Jane Churchill, General Ponsonby being on
the box with Brown, to and through Fort William,
which is three miles and a half from Inverlochy, passing
the celebrated Ben Nevis Distillery, which is two miles
from here, and through a triumphal arch, just beyond
the bridge over the Nevis Burn, by an old, very ne-
glected graveyard, to the right, in which is an obelisk to
McLachan, a poet, and past the Belford Hospital, a neat
building, built by a Mr. and Mrs. Belford; then a little
farther on, entered the town, where there was a triumphal
arch, the fort, now private property, belonging to Camp-
bell of Monzie. Here Glencoe came to take the oath to
King William III.
The town of Fort William is small, and, excepting
where the good shops are, very dirty, with a very poor
population, but all very friendly and enthusiastic. There
are four churches (Established, Free Church, Episco-
palian, and Roman Catholic). We drove on along Loch
Eil (called Loch Linnhe below Corran ferry) a mile, and
turned at Achintee, and down to old Inverlochy Castle,
which is nearer to Fort William than the new castle.
We got out to look at the ruin, but it is uninteresting, as
there is so little of it and literally nothing to see. About
a quarter of a mile from the house we got out and walked;
home by half-past twelve.
Friday, September 12.
At a quarter-past three, the day being most splendid,
started with Beatrice and Jane Churchill, the two gentle-
men following in the waggonette (with Charlie Thomson
on the box), and drove by Banavie, the same road we
came home yesterday, as far as where we crossed the
canal at Gairlochy only, instead of going down to it, we
kept above, and went to the left: it is a beautiful road,
coming in sight of Loch Lochy, which, with its wooded
banks and blue hills, looked lovely. Leaving the main
road, we turned into a beautiful drive along the river
Arkaig, in Lochiel's property, reminding one very much
of the Trossachs.
As you approach Achnacarry, which lies rather low,
but is surrounded by very fine trees, the luxuriance of
the tangled woods, surmounted by rugged hills, becomes
finer and finer till you come to Loch Arkaig, a little over
half a mile from the house. This is a very lovely loch,
reminding one of Loch Katrine^ especially where there is
a little pier, from which we embarked on board a very
small but nice screw steamer which belongs to Cameron
of LochieL
He received us (wearing his kilt and plaid) just above
the pier, and we all went on board the little steamer.
The afternoon was beautiful, and lit up the fine scenery
to the greatest advantage. We went about halfway up
the Loch (which is fourteen miles long), as we had not
time to go farther, to the disappointment of Lochiel, who
said it grew wilder and wilder higher up. To the left (as
we went up) is the deer forest; to the right he has sheep.
Both sides are beautifully wooded all along the lower
part of the fine hills which rise on either side, and the
trees are all oaks, which Cameron of Lochiel said were
the "weed of the country," and all natural none were
planted. A good many grow up all the hollows and
fissures of the hills and rocks. Right ahead, where we
turned, was seen a fine conical-shaped hill called Sconr-
na-nat, and to the left Glenmally, to the north Mitir Logan,
and Giusach and Gerarnan on either side. Before we
came to the turning we three had our tea, which was very
refreshing. I tried to sketch a little, but the sun shone
so strongly that I could not do much.
Mr. Cameron, who was with Lord Elgin in China,
came and explained everything, and talked very pleasantly.
His father had to let this beautiful place, and Lord
Malmesbury had it for fifteen years. The Cannings used
to go there, and I often heard Lady Canning speak of its
beauties, and saw many pretty sketches which she made
there. Thirteen years ago his father died, and he has
lived there ever since. Alfred was there in 1863.
It was, as General Ponsonby observed afterwards, a
striking scene. " There was Lochiel," as he said,
"whose great-grand-uncle had been the real moving
cause of the rising of 1745 for without him Prince
Charles would not have made the attempt showing
your Majesty (whose great-great-grandfather he had
striven to dethrone) the scenes made historical by Prince
Charlie's wanderings. It was a scene one' could not look
on unmoved."
Yes ; and / feel a sort of reverence in going over
these scenes in this most beautiful country, which I am
proud to call my own, where there was such devoted
loyalty to the family of my ancestors for Stuart blood is
in my veins, and I am now their representative, and the
people are as devoted and loyal to me as they were to
that unhappy race.
We landed at the little pier, but walked over the
small bridges (the carriages following) on which a piper
was playing a few hundred yards to a gate (on the side
opposite to that by which we came), where we got into
the carriages again. We drove through a beautiful road
called the Dark Mile dark from the number of very
- fine trees which overhang it, while on the left it is
overshadowed by beetling rocks with a rich tangled
undergrowth of bracken and heather, etc. The heather
grows very richly and fully in these parts, and in thick
tufts. We saw here the cave in which Prince Charles
Edward was hid for a week. We came out of this road
at the end of Loch Lochy, which looked lovely in the
setting sun, and drove along the water's edge till nearly
where we joined the road by which we had come. It is
all Lochiel's for a long way a splendid possession.
And now came the finest scene of all Ben Nevis and
its surrounding high hills, and the others in the direction
( 174 )
of Loch Laggan, all pink and glowing in that lovely after-
glow (Afycngluhcn\ which you see in the Alps. It was
glorious. It grew fainter and fainter till the hills became
blue and then grey, and at last it became almost quite
dark before we reached Banavie, and we only got home
at a quarter-past eight. As we drove out I sketched
Ben Nevis from the carriage.
Quantities of letters. The post comes in after eight
and goes out at ten, which is very inconvenient.
Our usual little dinner only, about nine.
Saturday, September 13.
Another splendid morning, of which we were very
glad, as we meant to go to Glencoe, which was the
principal object of our coming here. Our nice little
breakfast as usual. Sketching.
At eleven we started, just as yesterday, Francie Clark*
and Cannon going on the box of the second carriage.
We drove through Fort William, on as we did yesterday
morning by Achintee, and down the eastern side of Loch
Eil, which was beautifully lit, the distant hills intensely
blue. The cottages along the roadside here and there
hardly deserve the name, and are indeed mere hovels
so low, so small, so dark with thatch, and overgrown
with moss and heather, that if you did not see smoke
issuing from them, and some very ragged dirty old people,
and very scantily clothed, dishevelled children, you could
not believe they were meant for human habitations.
They are very picturesque and embedded in trees, with
the heathery and grassy hills rising above them, and
reminded me of Switzerland. There were poor little
fields, fuller of weeds than of corn, much laid by the
* My Highland servant since 1870, and cousin to Brown.
wet, and frequently a " calvie " or " coo " of the true shaggy
Highland character was actually feeding in them.
The road, which runs close above the loch, commands
an excellent view of the fine noble hills on the opposite
side of the loch. At Corran Ferry* (eleven miles) are
seen across the loch Cofiaglen, and Ardgour, Lord
Morton's, at the entrance of a very fine glen. He has
bought a large property in these parts, which formerly
belonged to the Macleans. South of Corran Ferry the
loch is called Loch Linnhe, and the road turns inland
westwards, soon after passing up along the shore of Loch
Lez'en, which is, in fact, also an arm of the sea. After
three miles we passed a few cottages called Onich, the
high hills of Glencoe beginning already to show. All was
so bright and green, with so much wood, and the loch so
calm, that one was in perpetual admiration of the scenery
as one went along. Four miles more from Corran Ferry
brought us to Ballachulish at a little before one o'clock.
The situation of the hotel the large one on the opposite
side, at the foot of the hills close to the ferry, is extremely
pretty. - There was a smaller and less handsome inn on
the north side, by which we had come. Here we got
out, after all our things cloaks, bags, luncheon baskets,
etc. had been removed from the carriage, which we had
to leave, and walked down to the boat. The small
number of people collected there were very quiet and
well behaved. Beatrice and Jane Churchill and I, with
General Ponsonby and Brown, got into the boat, and
two Highlanders in kilts rowed us across to the sound of
pipes. On the opposite side there were more people,
but all kept at a very respectful distance and were very
loyal. A lady (a widow), Lady Beresford, who owns the
slate quarries, and her daughter, in deep mourning, were
* Here Alfred got his very favourite Skye terrier Corran.
at the landing-place, and one of them presented me with
a bouquet. We got at once into two carriages (hired, but
very fair ones), Beatrice, Jane, and I in a sort of low
barouche, Brown on the box. We had a pair of horses,
which went very well. The two gentlemen occupied the
second carriage. The drive from Ballachulish^ looking
both ways, is beautiful, and very Alpine. I remember
Louise, and also Alice, making some sketches from here
when they went on a tour in 1865.
We went on, winding under the high green hills, and
entered the village of Ballachulish, where the slate
quarries are, and which is inhabited by miners. It was
very clean and tidy a long, continuous, straggling,
winding street, where the poor people, who all looked
very clean, had decorated every house with flowers and
bunches or wreaths of heather and red cloth. Emerging
from the village we entered the Pass of Ghncoe, which
at the opening is beautifully green, with trees and
cottages dotted about along the verdant valley. There
is a farm belonging to a Mrs. MacDonald, a descendant
of one of the unfortunate massacred MacDonalds. The
Cona flows along the bottom of the valley, with green
" haughs," where a few cattle are to be seen, and sheep,
which graze up some of the wildest parts of this glorious
glen. A sharp turn in the rough, very winding, and in
some parts precipitous road, brings you to the finest,
wildest, and grandest part of the pass. Stern, rugged,
precipitous mountains with beautiful peaks and rocks
piled high one above the other, two and three thousand
feet high, tower and rise up to the heavens on either side,
without any signs of habitation, except where, half-way
up the pass, there are some trees, and near them heaps of
stones on either side of the road, remains of what oncC'
were homes, which tell the bloody, fearful tale of woe.
The place itself is one which adds to the horror of the
thought that such a thing could have been conceived
and committed on innocent sleeping people. How and
whither could they fly? Let me hope that William III.
knew nothing of it.
To the right, not far on, is seen what is called Ossiarfs
Care ; but it must be more than a thousand feet above
the glen, and one cannot imagine how any one could live
there, as they pretend that Ossian did. The violence
of the torrents of snow and rain, which come pouring
down, has brought quantities of stone with them, which in
many parts cover the road and make it very rough. It
reminds me very much of the Devil's Bridge, St. Gothard,
and the Gbschenen Pass, only that is higher but not
so wild. When we came to the top, which is about ten
miles from Ballachulish, we stopped and got out, and we
three sat down under a low wall, just below the road,
where we had a splendid view of those peculiarly fine
wild-looking peaks, which I sketched.
Their Gaelic names are No. tri Peath raichean (the Three
Sisters), but in English they are often called " Faith, Hope,
and Charity."
We sat down on the grass (we three) on our plaids, and
had our luncheon, served by Brown and Francie, and
then I sketched. The day was most beautiful and calm.
i Here, however here, in this complete solitude, we were
I spied upon by impudently inquisitive reporters, who
followed us everywhere; but one in particular (who
writes for some of the Scotch papers) lay down and
[watched with a telescope and dodged me and Beatrice
land Jane Churchill, who were walking about, and was
Iraost impertinent when Brown went to tell him to move,
jwhich Jane herself had thought of doing. However, he
[did go away at last, and Brown came back saying he
N
thought there would have been a fight ; for when Brown
said quite civilly that [the Queen wished him to move away,
he said he had quite as good a right to remain there as
the Queen. To this Brown answered very strongly, upon
which the impertinent individual asked, " Did he know
who he was ? " and Brown answered he did, and that " the
highest gentleman in England would not dare do what
he did, much less a reporter " and he must move on, or
he would give him something more. And the man said,
"Would he dare say that before those other men (all re-
porters) who were coming up ? " And Brown answered
" Yes," he would before " anybody who did not behave
as he ought." More strong words were used ; but the
others came up and advised the man to come away quietly,
which he finally did. Such conduct ought to be known.
We were there nearly an hour, and then began walking
down a portion of the steep part.
The parish clergyman, Mr. Stewart, who had followed
us up, and who had met us when we arrived at Balla-
chutish, explained the names of the hills, and showed the
exact place of the dreadful massacre. He also said that
there were many Episcopalians there from the old Jacobite
feeling, and also Roman Catholics.
There was seldom frost in the glen, he said, but there
was a good deal of snow.
A short distance from where Ossian's cave is shown
there is a very small lake called Loch Treachtan, through
which the Cona flows ; and at the end of this was a cottage
with some cattle and small pieces of cultivated land.
We drove down on our return at a great pace. As we'
came through Ballachulish the post-boy suddenly stopped,
and a very respectable, stout-looking ojd Highlander
stepped up to the carriage with a small silver quaich, out
( '79 )
of which he said Prince Charles had drunk, and also my
dearest Albert in 1847, an d begged that I would do the
same. A table, covered with a cloth and with a bottle
on it, was on the other side of the road. I felt I could
hardly refuse, and therefore tasted some whisky out of it,
which delighted the people who were standing around.
His name, we have since heard, is W. A. Cameron.
We drove to the same small pier where we had dis-
embarked, and were rowed over again by two Highlanders
in kilts. The evening was so beautiful and calm that the
whole landscape was reflected in the lake. There is a
high, conical-shaped hill, the commencement of the Pass
of Glencoe, which is seen best from here ; and the range
of hills above Ardgour and Corran Ferry opposite was
of the most lovely blue. The whole scene was most
beautiful. Three pipers played while we rowed across,
and the good people, who were most loyal and friendly,
cheered loudly. We re-entered our carriages, and drove
off at a quick pace. When we were on the shores of
Loch Eil again, we stopped (but did not get out) to take
tea, having boiled the kettle. The setting sun cast a
most glorious light, as yesterday, on Ben Nevis and the
surrounding hills, which were quite pink, and gave a
perfectly crimson hue to the heather on the moor below.
The sky was pink and lilac and pale green, and became
richer and richer, while the hills in the other direction,
over Fort William, were of a deep blue. It was wonder-
fully beautiful, and I was still able to make, or at least
begin, a sketch of the effect of it, after we came home at
a quarter to seven, from Beatrice's window.
Resting and writing. Leopold has had far less fine
weather for his excursion than we have had.
Sunday ', September 14.
It was dull, and there had been some rain, but it
cleared, and the day was fine, though not bright.
At twenty minutes past eleven walked out with
Beatrice. We walked first to look at the kitchen garden,
which is large, and has some very nice hot-houses with
good grapes. From here we went out by the lodge,
meeting not a soul, and past the farm, going down a
road on the left to a small burn, over which there is a
foot-bridge. Finding, however, that it only led to a
keeper's house, Brown advised us to return, which we ac-
cordingly did, coming by the back and the stables, and
in at ten minutes to one o'clock. Rested, wrote, and then
read prayers with Beatrice, and part of Mr. Campbell's*
sermon, which Beatrice was so pleased with that she
copied it entirely. Luncheon as usual. Painted and
finished the view looking towards Fort William.
At five drove out with Beatrice and Jane Churchill in
the waggonette. We drove past the distillery ; and then
just beyond the bridge, which must be very little over two
miles from Inverlochy, we turned off the main road. We
drove up for four miles along the Nevis, a fine rapid burn
rolling over large stones and almost forming cascades in
one or two places, under fine trees with very steep green
hills rising on either side, and close under and along the
base of Ben Nevis, which rose like a giant above us. It
was splendid ! Straight before us the glen seemed to
close ; halfway up we came to a large farm, the drive to
which is under an avenue of ash trees. But there is no
other habitation beyond this of any kind ; and soon after
the trees become fewer and fewer, though still a good
* The newly appointed minister at Crathie.
many grow at the burnside and up the gullies of the hills.
Sheep were grazing at a great height. The road became
so rough and bad that we got out and walked almost a
mile, but could go no farther. We were delighted with
the solemn solitude and grandeur of Glen Nevis ; it is
almost finer than Glencoe. There was no one when we
first entered the glen, but as we walked back we met
several people coming out to look. After getting into
the carriage again, I stopped a little to take a rough
sketch.
The farm belongs to Mrs. Campbell of Monzie, only
daughter of the late Sir Duncan Cameron of Fassifern,
who owns a good deal of Ben Nevis. Every hill has a
name, but I cannot remember them, though I have them
written down by the keeper at Inverlochy. As it was still
a little too early to go home, we drove as far as the Fort
and turned back, coming in at a quarter past seven.
Writing. The post comes in at a most inconvenient hour,
a little past eight.
Dinner as usual. My favourite collie Noble is always
downstairs when we take our meals, and was so good,
Brown making him lie on a chair or couch, and he never
attempted to come down without permission, and even
held a piece of cake in his mouth without eating it, till
told he might. He is the most " biddable " dog I ever
saw, and so affectionate and kind ; if he thinks you are
not pleased with him, he puts out his paws, and begs in
such an affectionate way.
Jane Churchill read.
Monday, September 15.
The mist hung about the hills, but the sun struggled
through. It was very mild and became beautiful. We
decided to go up GJenfinnan and to lunch out. Painted
( 182 )
and finished two other sketches looking up Loch Eil
and towards JBanavie, and then wrote, after which at a
quarter to twelve took a short turn in the grounds with
Beatrice.
At twenty minutes to one started with Beatrice and
Jane Churchill in the sociable (Brown going each day of
course with us on the box), the two gentlemen following
(with Francie Clark and Charlie Thomson), and drove
past Banavie through Corpach and up Loch Eil. When
we had come to the head of the loch, the road turned
towards the right, winding along through verdant valleys,
with that noble range of Moidart before you, rather to the
left. In one valley, which became very narrow after
passing a large meadow in which they were making hay, we
turned into a narrow sort of defile, with the stream of the
Finnan flowing on as slowly as an English river, with
trees and fir trees on the rocks, and unlike anything I had
seen in Scotland^ and then you come at once on Loch
Shiel (a freshwater loch), with fine very high rugged hills
on either side. It runs down twenty miles.
At the head of the loch stands a very ugly monument
to Prince Charles Edward, looking like a sort of light-
house surmounted by his statue, and surrounded by a
wall. Here it was that he landed when he was brought
by Macdonald of Borradale whose descendant, now
Macdonald of Glenaladale, has a house here (the only
habitation to be seen) to wait for the gathering of the
clans. When Prince Charlie arrived at the spot where
the monument stands, which is close to the loch and
opposite to Glenfinnan (the road we came going past it
and on up a hill to Arisaig^ twenty-five miles farther on),
he found only a dozen peasants, and thought he had been
betrayed, and he sat down with his head in his hands.
Suddenly the sound of the pipes aroused him, and he saw
the clans coming down Glenfinnan. Soon after the Mac-
donalds appeared, and in the midst of a cheering host
the Marquis of Tullibardine (Duke of Athole but for his
attainder) unfurled the banner of King James. This was
in August 1745. In 1746 poor Prince Charles was a
fugitive hiding in the mountains on the sides of I^ch
Arkaig and Loch Shiel. As we suddenly came upon
Loch Shiel from the narrow glen, lit up by bright sunshine,
with the fine long loch and the rugged mountains, which
are about three thousand feet high, rising all around, no
habitation or building to be seen except the house of
Glcnaladale, which used to be an inn, and a large pictur-
esque Catholic church, reminding one, from its elevated
position to the right and above the house, of churches
and convents abroad, I thought I never saw a lovelier or
more romantic spot, or one which told its history so well.
What a scene it must have been in 1745 ! And here was
7, the descendant of the Stuarts and of the very king
whom Prince Charles sought to overthrow, sitting and
walking about quite privately and peaceably.
We got out and scrambled up a high hillock off the
road, where I lunched with Beatrice and Jane Churchill
and then sketched, but did not attempt to colour. We
walked about a little, and then came down to the road to
speak to Mr. Macdonald of Glenaladale, whom General
Ponsonby had been to speak to, and who had never seen
me. He is a stout, robust-looking Highlander of about
thirty and a widower. He is a Catholic, as are all the
people in this district. The priest is his uncle, and lives
with him. He showed me some curious relics of Charles
Edward. An old-fashioned, strange silver snuff " mull "
which had been given by him to Macdonald's ancestor,
with the dates 1745 and 1746 engraved on it, for ztBorra-
dah Prince Charlie slept for the last time in Scotland ; a
watch which had belonged to him, and a ring into which
some of his fair hair had been put, were also shown.
This is the district called Moidart, and from the
highest hills the Isle of Skye is seen distinctly. Lord
Morton's property comes up close to Loch Shiel, and to
the right are Lochiel, etc., and Macdonald of Glenaladale 's
in front, at the head of the loch. The family used to
live at Borradale near Arisaig, but acquired Glenaladale
from the former Macdonalds of Glenaladale who emi-
grated to Prince Edward's Island after the Forty-five.
Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and Brown went up with
Mr. Macdonald to the top of the monument, but said the
ascent was very awkward and difficult. General Ponsonby
had been into the church, and said it was very expensively
and handsomely decorated, but we have since heard
there are only about fifty people in the neighbourhood.
We left this beautiful spot about half-past four, having
spent two hours there. The evening was not so bright
as on Friday and Saturday, and there was no after-glow
on the hills, Ben Nevis having its top covered with mist,
as it often has. The horses were tired, and went rather
sloAvly. I observed a flower here, which I have not seen
with us at Balmoral, viz., instead of the large white
daisies* "Marguerites," as the French call them, and of
which such numbers are seen in the fields in England
there is a large yellow one,f just the same in form, only
the petals are bright yellow.
The heather, as I before observed, is of a very full and
rich kind, and, as we drove along, we saw it on the old
walls, growing in the loveliest tufts. We met those dread-
ful reporters, including the man who behaved so ill on
Saturday, as we were coming back. We got home at
* Chrysanthemum Leticanthemimt, White ox-eye daisy.
t Chrysanthemum segctiun, Yellow ox-eye or corn marigold.
twenty minutes past six. Had some tea. Wrote and put
everything in order. All had been settled about money
to be given, etc. Our last nice little dinner, which I
regretted. Came up directly after and wrote.
Tuesday, September 16.
Had to get up by seven, and Beatrice and I breakfasted
at a quarter to eight. The morning was fine.
The real name of the place used to be Torlundy,
which is the name of the " lochie, " or " tarn," below the
house, in the middle of which there is a little island on
which there are ducks. The property, which is very large,
sixty-four miles in extent, was purchased from the late
Duke of Gordon by the late Lord Abinger, who began a
house, but it was burnt down ; the present Lord built this
one, in fact, only ten years ago, and added to it since. He
has called it Inverlochy Castle, after the old fortress, which
is supposed to have belonged to the Pictish kings, but the
present ruin is thought to date from the time of Edward I.
The Marquis of Montrose defeated the Marquis of Argylc
there in 1645, an incident described in Sir Walter Scott's
" Legend of Montrose."
At a quarter-past eight we left Inverlochy Castle,
where we had spent very pleasant days. The gentlemen
had gone on before.
We drove to Banavie, where a good many people were
assembled, and stepped on board the steamer which was
on the Caledonian Canal. Here were Lord and Lady
Abinger, whom I thanked very much for their kindness.
I left an illustrated copy of my book and prints of Albert's
and my portraits at Inverlochy for Lord Abinger. She is
an American lady from the Southern States, a Miss
Macgruder, and they have five children, of whom one
( i86 )
only is a boy. They left the steamer, and we began moving.
The steamer is called the " Gondolier." It is built on the
same principle as the one we had on Loch Lomond, with
a fine large cabin with many windows, almost a deck cabin
(though it is down one flight of steps), which extends
through the ship with seats below, open at the sides far
forward. In this large cabin sixty-two people can dine.
We remained chiefly on deck. We steamed gently along
under the road by which we had driven from Gairlochy
and Achnacarry, Lochiel's to the left or west, and Lord
Abinger's to the right. Ben Nevis, unfortunately, was hid
in the mist, and the top invisible, which we hear is very
generally the case.
We came to one lock, and shortly afterwards to Gair-
lochy , after which you enter Loch Lochy. The Caledonian
Canal is a very wonderful piece of engineering, but travel-
ling by it is very tedious. At each lock people crowded
up close to the side of the steamer. As the river rises from
Banavie to Loch Oich (which succeeds Loch Lochy}, the
canal has to raise the vessels up to that point, and again
to lower them from Loch Oich to Inverness. The vessel,
on entering the lock from the higher level, is enclosed by
the shutting of the gates. The sluices of the lower gates
are raised by small windlasses (it was amusing to see the
people, including the crew of the steamer, who went on
shore to expedite the operation, which is not generally
done, run round and round to move these windlasses),
and holes are thus opened at the bottom of the lower
gates, through which the water flows till the water in the
lock sinks to the lowest level. The lower gates are then
opened, as the water is on the lowest level, while the
upper gates keep back the water above. The same pro-
cess raises the ships in the lock which ascend. About
five or six feet can be raised or depressed in this manner
at each lock. (I have copied this from an account
General Ponsonby wrote for me.)
As we entered Loch Lochy, which looked beautiful,
we saw where Loch Arkaig lay, though it was hid from us
by high ground. The hills which rise from Loch Lochy
are excellent pasturage for sheep, but the lower parts are
much wooded. After eight miles' sail on Loch Lochy we
came to Loch Oich, which is entered by another lock at
Laggan. Here Mr. and Mrs. Ellice (who is a first cousin
of the Greys) were waiting, and came on board. They
had wished me to get out and drive round their fine place,
Invergarry, to rejoin the steamer at the next lock, but I
declined, preferring to remain quietly on board, though
the process of going through the locks is slow and neces-
sarily tedious. It is nervous work to steer, for there is
hardly a foot to spare on either side. Mrs. Ellice went
on shore again, having given us some fine grapes, but Mr.
Ellice remained on board till the next lock, Cullochy. A
road much shaded runs along the side of the loch, and
here we passed the small monument by its side, put over
the well into which a number of heads of some of the
MacDonalds, who had murdered two of their kinsmen of
Keppoch, were thrown after they had been killed in revenge
for this act, by order of MacDonald of the Isles. It was
erected in 1812. We next came to the old ruined castle
of Invergarry, embosomed in trees, close to which, but
not in sight, is Mr. Ellice's new house. He has an im-
mense deal of property here on both sides. The hills
rise high, and one conically shaped one called Ben Tigh
towers above the rest. At Cullochy Mr. Ellice left the
steamer. Mr. Brewster, formerly Lord Chancellor of
Ireland and nearly eighty years old, was standing on the
shore here. Francie and one of the policemen got out
with good Noble, and walked to meet us again at Fort
Augustus. While we were stopping to go through one of
the locks, a poor woman came and brought us a jug of
milk and oat-cake, which with their usual hospitality the
country people constantly offer.
After this, and at about ten minutes past twelve,
Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and I went below and had some
hot luncheon. The people from the locks looked down
upon us, but it was unavoidable. We had now reached
Fort Augustus, where there was again some delay and a
great many people, and where there was a triumphal arch.
Here on this very day thirty-six years ago my beloved Albert
passed, and he saw poor Macdonald the Jager here, and
took a liking to him from his appearance, and, being in
want of a Jager, inquired after him and engaged him.
He was keeper to Lord Digby and Colonel Porter then,
and brought some game for dearest Albert from them,
and Albert was greatly struck by his good looks. He was
very handsome, especially in the kilt, which he habitually
wore.
There had been a heavy shower, but it was over when
we came up on deck again. We entered Loch Ness here.
It is twenty-four miles long, and broad, the banks wooded,
with many pretty places on them. We passed Invermor-
riston in Glen Morriston* the property of the Grants of
Glen Morriston. Foyers, the celebrated falls, which are
much visited, could just be seen, but not the falls them-
selves. Everywhere, where there were a few houses or
any place of note, people were assembled and cheered.
Next, to the left comes the very fine old ruin of Castle
* In former editions this property was erroneously said to belong
to Sir George Brooke Micldleton. He was at this time tenant of ,
the shootings. The property now belongs .by inheritance to
Lieutenant I. R. J. Murray Grant, 1st Battalion Queen's Own
Cameron Highlanders.
U/'qit/tart, close upon the Loclian Rocks, where there
were again a great many people. The Castle has stood
several sieges, and one in particular in the fourteenth
century in the reign of Edward I. It belongs to Lord
Seafield (head of the Grants), who has a very large pro-
perty here, and whose own shooting-place, Balmacaan,
is up in the glen just beyond. The fine mountain of
Mcalfourvonie rises above it. It is two thousand seven
hundred feet high, but the peak alone is seen from here.
I tried to sketch a little, but in vain, the wind in my face
was so troublesome.
At about twenty minutes to four (or half-past three)
we passed Dochfour House, Mr. Baillie's, which I think
stands rather low, and in which Albert passed this night
twenty-six years ago. A few minutes more brought us to
Dochgarroch, quite a quiet place, but where a good many
people had assembled. We waited to see every one and
all our luggage landed and packed in and off before we
stepped on shore. It was an amusing sight. There must
have been two or three carriages besides o-urs. The last
to drive off was the one in which Morgan, Maxted, and
Lizzie Stewart* got, with Francie Clark and Noble on the
box. Mr. Baillie and Lady Georgiana, whom I had not
seen for long, were at the end of the landing platform, as
well as Mr. Evan Baillie and Mrs. Colville, their son and
daughter. Two little girls put down bunches of flax for
me to walk upon, which it seems is an old Highland
custom. There is a small village where we landed. Lady
Georgiana Baillie is quite an old lady, aunt of the Duke
of Manchester, and grand- daughter of the celebrated
Duchess of Gordon.
Beatrice, Jane, and I got into a hired (not very
beautiful) open landau (on the rumble of which Brown
* My second wardrobe maid since 1879, a native of Balmoral.
sat, as in crowds it is much safer to have a person close
behind you) with a pair of post-horses and a postilion.
In the second carriage went General Ponsonby, Emilie
Dittweiler (sitting next to him), Dr. Fox, and Annie,
every available place being necessary. We were escorted
by the 7th Dragoon Guards, which was thought better on
account of the great crowds in Inverness, where no Sove-
reign had been seen since my poor ancestress Queen Mary.
The mixture of half state and humble travelling (we
being in our common travelling dresses) was rather
amusing.
The evening was beautiful, and Inverness looked
extremely well on the blue Moray Frith. We passed a
magnificent building, which is the county Lunatic
Asylum. We had to drive six miles to the town, through
a small portion of which only we passed, and had to
drive quickly, as it was late. The streets were full of
decorations and arches, and lined with volunteers. Great
order prevailed, and the people were most enthusiastic.
The fine-looking old Provost was there, and the Master
of Lovat, who walked up along the station with us. A
great squeeze, which Brown, having a great heap of
cloaks etc. to carry, had some difficulty in getting through.
But every one, including the dog, got safe in, and we
travelled by train as before. We went the same way as
last year, but never stopped till we got to Keith, where
last time our door got wrong. After this, about six, we
had some warm tea and cold meat, which was very
refreshing. A fine evening.
We reached Ballater at five minutes to nine, and
started at once in the open landau and four, preceded
by the outrider with the lamp. There were a few drops
of rain, but very slight. At twtnty minutes to ten we
reached Balmoral safely, very thankful that all had gone
off so well.
HOME-COMING OF THEIR ROYAL HIGHNESSES
THE DUKE AND DUCHESS OF EDINBURGH,
AUGUST 1874.
Saturday, August 29, 1874.
At a quarter to two started in the landau and four
with Beatrice and Lady Abercromby, Brown in full
dress on the rumble. It was raining, so we kept the
carriage shut, but there were decided symptoms of
clearing, and by the time we reached Ballater the sun
began to shine, and the rain ceased as I got out.
The train with Alfred and Marie had already arrived,
and Marie got out as I advanced. Alfred was already
out of the carriage. I kissed them, and then, with
Marie, Alfred, and Beatrice, got in again, the carriage
being open, and it was very fine. Marie wore a brown
travelling dress with a hat. When we reached the
bridge we went slowly. The Ballater company of
volunteers, to the number of thirty (kilted in Farquharson
tartan), were next it, and from here to the arch, and
beyond it, stood all our people in full dress with their
families, and all the tenants of the three estates with
theirs, also the ladies and gentlemen. The pipers walked
in front playing, and our keepers and others, who wore
full dress, on either side (Brown remaining in his place
on the carriage), followed by all the other people.
In this way we proceeded through the arch up to
Balmoral, just as when Helena arrived, only then there
were fewer people. Leopold was in his carriage. We
got out at the door of the Castle, and then Dr. Robertson
proposed the health of Alfred and Marie, which was
drunk by all with cheers. Then two reels were danced,
after which we took Marie and Alfred to their rooms
downstairs, and sat with them while they had tea.
( 193 )
DEPARTURE OF THE PRINCE OF WALES FROM
ABERGELDIE BEFORE LEAVING FOR INDIA.
Balmoral, Friday, September 17, 1875.
Coming home from our drive at twenty minutes past
seven, we had passed Bertie's carriage in the Balloch
Buie, but we heard no sound of a carriage when we
went downstairs for dinner a little before nine, and Alix
[Princess of Wales] had also not arrived. Their people
having come, we consulted with Charlotte Knollys* what
to do, and sent to beg Alix to come and order Bertie's
things to be brought to the Castle. At length, at half-
past nine, Bertie arrived, very hot, having lost his way
and been separated from the others. He had got four
stags (and had been lucky altogether), and he asked us
to go to dinner. We accordingly sat down Lenchen,
Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and Lord Carnarvon. Christian
had gone on to look after Bertie, but he soon returned.
j Only at ten did Alix arrive, and at ten minutes past ten,
Bertie ; and we did not get up from dinner till half-past
ten. All the ladies and gentlemen came into the
drawing-room after dinner, and all felt that this terrible
parting was hanging over us. At eleven I took Bertie
Lady to the Princess of Wales, eldest daughter of General Sir
William Knollys, K.C.B., for many years at the head of the Prince
of Wales's household.
( 194 .)
and Alix upstairs, and talked over various details of this
anxious journey to India. Then it came to the saying
good-night, and Bertie sent for Lohlein and Brown to
come and take leave of him. I saw how that began to
try him, and it grieved them. He shook hands with
both, and I felt nearly upset myself when Brown shook
him by the hand, and said : " God bless your Royal
Highness, and bring you safe back ! " He also wished
my maids good-bye, who were standing there. Poor
dear Alix seemed to feel it much, and so did I, as I
embraced them both several times, and said I would go
to see them off next morning.
Saturday, September 18.
A dull and rather raw morning. Breakfasted alone
(as Beatrice was not quite well, with a sort of chill) at
nine in the cottage.
At half-past nine I drove off with Lenchen to Aber-
geldie. There we found all in considerable confusion.
Bertie was out in the garden, where we waited a little
while, and then I went up, and found poor Alix putting
up her things in her bed-room the little girls there
the maids not yet off. At length, at a quarter-past ten,
they left. Dear Bertie wished all good-bye. Our ladies
and gentlemen and all the people were assembled outside.
Poor dear Beatrice was the only one absent. Christian
had gone on before. Bertie shook hands with all; I
wished him every possible success, and that God would
bless and protect him during this long and anxious
journey to the East. It was very sad to see him drive
off with Alix and the boys (the little girls followed in
another carriage), not knowing what might not happen,
or if he. would ever return. May God bless him!
( 195 )
VISIT TO INVERARAY, SEPTEMBER 1875.
Tuesday, September 21, 1875.
We had a family dinner at twenty minutes to nine.
At a quarter past ten left Balmoral with Beatrice and
Jane Churchill, Brown on the rumble. We reached
Ballater by eleven, when we took the railroad. General
Ponsonby and Sir W. Jenner met us there. Emilie,
Annie, Morgan (for Beatrice), Francie Clark, and the
footmen, Cannon, Charlie Thomson, and Heir, went in
attendance, as well as Baldry and three men of the police.
The horses (six) with Bourner, Hutchinson, and Goddard
with the luggage, had gone on in advance. We started
immediately, and very soon after lay down. We went
steadily and slowly, but I did not sleep very well.
Inveraray, Wednesday, September 22.
At eight we reached Tyndrum, a wild, picturesque,
and desolate place, in a sort of wild glen with green hills
rising around. Here we breakfasted in the train, Brown
having had the coffee heated which we had brought made
with us, and some things coming from the nice-looking
hotel. The morning was beautiful, just a little mist on
the highest hills, which cleared off. There are a few
straggling houses and a nice hotel at this station, where
O 2
( 196 )
we got out and where Lord and Lady Breadalbane met
us, as this is his property. The day was beautiful.
We got into the sociable (that is, Beatrice, Jane
Churchill, and I) with a pair of posthorses, Brown and
Francie Clark on the box, the two gentlemen and four
maids in a waggonette following, and further behind the
unavoidable luggage with the footmen, etc. The road
lay up a broad glen, with green hills on either side, on
one of which are lead mines belonging to Lord Breadal-
bane. It was very winding, very rough, and continually
up and down, and we went very slowly. Looking back,
behind Tyndrum was a fine range of hills which are in
the forest of the Black Mount. Passed the entrance of
a broad glen with many trees called Glenorchy (the second
title of Breadalbane), and saw all along where the rail-
way is being made. A small stream flows at the bottom.
To the left we saw Ben Luie ; then, as we descended, the
country became more and more beautiful, with trees and
copsewood sprinkled about, till we came to Dalmally,
lying embosomed in trees, with Ben Cruachan and its
adjacent range rising close before us, with the bluest
shadows and tints on all the heights, and the sky pure
and bright with a hot sun, though a good deal of air.
Looking back, we still saw the other green hills from
which we had come.
As it approaches Dalmally the road goes under trees
till you reach the inn, which stands quite alone. The
church is beautifully situated at the bottom of the glen,
and is surrounded by trees. There was no large crowd
here, and the people behaved very well. . Dalmally is
thirteen miles from Tyndrum. Four horses were put on
here to drag us up the first hill, which was long and high,
and brought us in view of Loch Awe^ which looked
beautiful. Here the leaders were taken off. Loch Awe
extends back a good way, and we could just see Kilchurn
Castle, of historic celebrity, and the beautiful head of
the loch with high hills on the right, and the islands of
Tunis/tail and Ardchone, besides many smaller ones.
On the first-named of these is said to be buried an
ancestor of the Argylls. The loch is thirty miles in
length, and as it stretches out and widens the hills become
much flatter. We drove quite round the head of Loch
Awe, then passed Cladich, and here the ground became
very broken, and high hills were seen in the background,
towering above the nearer ones. Bracken with birch
and oak, etc., grow profusely among the green hills and
rocks, much as they do near Inverlochy, Loch Eil, etc.
Here and there were small knots of people, but not many.
About five or six miles before Inveraray, at a place called
Crais-na-Schleacaich, at the foot of Glen Aray, where
the Duke's property begins, four of our own horses were
waiting, and here dear Louise and Lome met us, looking
pleased and well. Lome rode, and dear Louise got into
her pony-carriage and drove after us. We soon after
came to an arch with a Gaelic inscription " Ceud mille
Failte do'n Bhan Rhighinn do Inerara" (A hundred
thousand welcomes to the Queen to Inveraray]. A very
stout tenant's wife, Mrs. McArthur, presented me with a
nosegay, which a child she held in her arms gave me.
On we went along Glen Aray, the road as we ap-
proached Inreraray Castle being bordered on either side
by trees. When we reached the gate there were two
halberdiers, whilst others were posted at intervals along
the approach, dressed in Campbell tartan kilts with brown
coats turned back with red, and bonnets with a black
cock's tail and bog-myrtle (the Campbell badge). With
them were also the pipers of the volunteers. In front of
the house the volunteers in kilts and red jackets, and the
artillery volunteers in blue and silver, of whom Lome is
the colonel, were drawn up, and a good many spectators
were assembled. The Duke and Duchess of Argyll and
their six girls were at the door : the outside steps are now
under glass and made into a sort of conservatory.
The Duke and Duchess took us upstairs at once to
our rooms, part of which are Louise's ; very comfortable,
not large but cheerful, and having a beautiful view of
Loch Fyne. It was one when we arrived, and we lunched
at two, only Louise, Beatrice, and Lome, in a nice room
(in fact, the Duchess's drawing-room) with tapestry, at the
foot of the stairs. Brown (who has attended me at all
the meals since we came here) waited, helped by two or
three of the Duke's people. After lunch we went into
the large drawing-room, next door to where we had
lunched in 1847, when Lome was only two years old.
And now I return, alas ! without my beloved Husband,
to find Lome my son-in law !
In the drawing-room I found Lord and Lady Dufferin
(who are staying here) as well as Sir John and Lady
Emma McNeill. She is the Duke's only sister, and he a
very fine old man (now eighty), who was formerly my
minister in Persia. Went upstairs to rest and sketch the
splendid Ardkinglass Hills, from the window of the little
turret which forms my dressing-room. Then had tea,
and at half-past five drove out with Louise and Beatrice
by the lodge called Creitabhille, through part of the wood
or forest where the beeches are splendid, as also the
spruces, on past Ballachanooran, by the upper road, green
hills, trees, oaks, ferns, and broken ground all along, like
at Loch Eil, past Achnagoul, a little village lying close
under the hill, to the Douglas Water, a small rapid stream.
Here we turned back and went along this pretty little
mountain stream, past some cottages and a small farm
( 199 )
and then came upon the shore of Loch Fyne, the drive
along which is lovely. As we drove, the setting sun
bathed the hills in crimson, they had been golden just
before, the effect was exquisite. Looking up and down
the shores, the view was lovely, and the reflections on the
calm surface of the lake most beautiful.
We drove back through the small town of Inveraray,
which is close to the gates of the Castle, and looks pretty
from my window with its small pier, where we landed in
1847, and near to which there is a curious old Celtic
cross. There are two inns, three churches, and a jail, for
it is a county town. On coming home we walked a little
in the garden close to the house, and came in at ten
minutes past seven. Resting. Writing. Dinner at half-
past eight in the room in which we lunched. The Duke
and Duchess, Louise, Beatrice, and Lady Churchill dined
with me. Then went for a short while into the drawing-
room, where, besides the family, which included Lord
Colin, were Dr. MacGregor, Mr. Donald Macleod, and
Mr. Story (all clergymen staying in the house), and the
following gentlemen : Lord Ardmillan (who was there for
the assizes), Mr. Campbell, of Stonefield (Convener of the
county of Argyll), Mr. and Mrs. Hector Macneal, of
Ugadale, etc. Mr. Macneal showed me a brooch which
had some resemblance to the Brooch of Lome, and had
been given by King Robert Bruce to one of his ancestors.
Thursday, September 23.
This sad anniversary, when my beloved sister was
taken from me, whom I miss so continually, returns for
the third time.
A fine morning. Breakfasted in my sitting-room at a
quarter to ten with Louise and Beatrice. My sitting-room
( 200 )
is generally Louise's bedroom, which had been specially
arranged by her for me, and in the recess the Duchess
had placed a picture of Balmoral, copied from A. Becker's
picture. This opens into a small apartment, generally
used as Lome's dressing room, in which my maid Annie
sleeps and the two maids sit, next to which comes the
bedroom, at the end of which is the nice cozy little turret-
room with two windows, one of which looks on the loch
with the very fine Ardkinglass Range in front, and the
other on the front door, the bridge, and splendid trees.
My dresser, Emilie Dittweiler, is next door to my bed-
room, and Beatrice next to her in Louise's sitting-room.
At a little after eleven I walked out with Louise and
Beatrice along the approach, and then turned up through
the wood and up the lower walk of Ditnaquoich, the hill
opposite the house, which is wooded nearly to the top,
on which is a tower, and walked along under magnificent
trees, chiefly beeches and some very fine spruces, that re-
minded me of Windsor Park and Reinhardtsbrunn. We
walked on some way, passed a well and a small cottage,
where the poultry is kept, where there is a funny good-
natured woman called Mrs. McNicholl, who kissed Louise's
hand and knelt down when I came up, and said to
Louise, when she heard I was coming, "How shall I speak
to her ? " We went into the little cottage, where another
old woman of eighty lives. She looked so nice and tidy
with a clean white mutch. We then walked down and
came back along the river, which flows quite close to the
house into the sea, and is full of fish. We were in at
twenty minutes to one. Luncheon at two, just like
yesterday. The day was dull, but quite fair and clear.
Drawing and painting.
At a quarter-past four drove out with Louise, Beatrice,
and the Duchess, in my waggonette, driven by Bourner.
After going for some distance the same way as yesterday
afternoon, we turned into a wooded drive, leading to the
Glen of Essachosan, where there are the most beautiful
spruces, and some silver firs which reminded me in height
and size of those on the road to Eberstein, near Baden,
and on by what they call the Queen's drive, made for me
in 1871, past Lechkenvohr, whence there is a fine view of
the loch and surrounding hills, Ben Een, Ben Bute, etc.
The road is very steep going down to the Curling Pond
and Black Bull Cottage ; then over Carlonnan Bridge
down to some falls, and back along the approach to the
Dim Loch, under the avenue of fine old beeches, which,
joining as they do, almost form an aisle. Eleven, alas !
were blown down two years ago : they were planted by
the Marquis of Argyll two hundred years ago. You come
rapidly upon the Dhu Loch, a small but very pretty loch
a complete contrast to our Dhu Loch, for this is sur-
rounded by green and very wooded hills, with the ex-
tremely pretty and picturesque Glen Shira in the back-
ground, which is richly wooded. We drove along the
right bank of the Shira River, up as far as the small farm
of Drum Lee, most prettily situated on the hillside some
way up, passing one or two other farms one especially,
a very strange old building. We took our (made) tea,
and Elizabeth (the Duchess) greatly admired the con-
venient arrangement (viz. the bag into which cups etc.
are fitted), and then drove back the same way and along
.the shore road. Home at ten minutes to seven. A
charming drive, but there was a very high and cold wind.
Louise, Beatrice, the Duchess of Argyll, Lord and
Lady DufTerin, and Sir John and Lady Emma McNeil!
dined with me, as yesterday. Went again for a short while
into the drawing-room, where the Duke presented some
pther people the sheriff, Mr, F. A, Irvine of Drum (in
( 202 )
Aberdeen shtre\ Mr. J Malcolm QiPoltalloch (a fine-looking
man, whose son, a tall large man, dined here yesterday,
and whose daughter has just married Mr. Gathorne Hardy's
son), and Sir G. and Lady Home, who live just outside
the town : he is sheriff-depute, and she a niece of Sir F.
Grant. Went upstairs with Beatrice and Jane Churchill,
Louise always remaining below.
Friday, September i^,.
Raining and blowing. Breakfasted with my two dear
daughters. The rain ceased, and at a little past twelve I
walked with Louise and Beatrice up by the lodge at the .
stables, which are in the " Cherry Park" and looked at
our horses and Louise's, and saw a little dog, the daughter
of Louise's poor old Frisky ; and then walked along at the
back of the stables, where the trees are very fine most
splendid silver firs and then back by the kitchen-garden
and the straightest path, past a magnificent Scotch fir of
great height and circumference. In at twenty minutes
past one. It was dull and dark.
At a quarter-past five, after tea, started with Louise,
Beatrice, and Jane Churchill in the rain, which turned
to a heavy downpour. We drove up the way we had 3
previously walked, by the private road, under trees the
whole way, to Lynn a Glitthen, the highest fall of the
Aray, which is very pretty. There we had to get out to
walk over a wooden bridge, which Louise said they did
not like to drive over, and came back by the high road.
By this time the weather had quite cleared, and so we]
drove on past the Inn of Inveraray, through a gate which
is always left open, and up what is called the " Tmvn
Avenue" consisting entirely of very old beeches joining
overhead and nearly a mile long, at the back of the town.
We came back by the lime avenue in the deer park, and
( 203 )
in by a gate close to the pleasure-ground at half-past six.
The halberdiers, all tenants of the Duke, kept guard the
whole day.
We dined at a quarter-past eight on account of the ball
only Louise, Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and I. Went into
the drawing-room for a moment, where the Duke presented
Sir Donald Campbell of Dunstaffnage and his wife, and
J. A. Campbell of New Inverawe (Loch Awe}. Sir Donald
Campbell is deputy-keeper of Dunstaffnage Castle, and
wears a key in consequence. He is between forty and fifty,
and wore a kilt, as did also Malcolm of Poltalloch and the
other gentlemen. At a quarter-past ten we drove across
to the temporary pavilion, where the ball to the tenants
was to take place. Louise, Beatrice, and Jane Churchill
went with me in the Duke's coach. The Duke, Lome,
and Colin received us, and the Duchess and all the girls
and the other ladies were inside at the upper end on a
raised platform, where we all sat. It is a very long and
handsome room, I believe a hundred and thirty feet long,
. and was built at the time of Louise's marriage. It was
handsomely decorated with flags, and there were present
between seven and eight hundred people tenants with
their wives and families, and many people from the town ;
but it was not like the Highland balls I have been accus-
' tomed to, as there were many other dances besides reels.
The band could not play reels (which were played by the
piper), and yet came from Glasgow ! The ball began,
however, with a reel ; then came a country dance, then
another reel. Louise danced a reel with Brown, and
Beatrice with one of the Duke's foresters ; but the band
could only play a country dance tune for it. Another reel
with pipes, in which Jane Churchill danced with Brown,
and Francie Clark with Annie (Mrs. Macdonald, my
wardrobe maid), Louise and Beatrice dancing in another
reel with one of the other people and Mr. John Campbell.
Then came a " schottische" which seemed to be much liked
there, and more reels, and lastly a " tempete" in which
Louise and Beatrice danced. In the early part a Gaelic
song was sung by some of the people, including Mr. John
Campbell. I remember some which were sung by the
boatmen on Loch Toy in 1842. After the " tempt te" we
came away at nearly half-past twelve.
Saturday, September 25.
A pouring morning. Breakfasted as usual with my
two dear children dear Louise so kind and attentive, so j
anxious I and all my people should be comfortable, think-
ing of everything. It cleared, and at half-past eleven I j
walked out with Louise (Beatrice walked with Jane
Churchill and the girls) to the kennel, along the River
Aray, which had risen a great deal since Thursday, when
it was as low as possible. We went to the kennel and
saw the dogs and the eagle ; from here we went to the
kitchen-garden, which is large. There are very fine
peaches and a wonderful old laurel and thuja, which
have spread to an immense size. Home at twenty
minutes to one. Luncheon as before.
Louise introduced me to a good old lady, a Miss
McGibbon, who was too ill to come out and see me ;
she patted Louise on the shoulder and said, " We are all
so fond of the Princess ; she is a great pet." Louise said,
" Lome was her great pet ;" and she answered, "Yes ;
he is, and so you are a double pet." *
At ten minutes past four drove out with Louh;e,
Beatrice, and the Duke in the waggonette, and took a
charming drive, the afternoon being very fine and bright.
* She clied soon after,
We went out the same way we had been on Wednesday,
and once or twice besides, along the avenue called Balla-
chanooran, by the deer park (a great many gates having
to be opened, as they must be kept locked to prevent the
deer getting out), and struck into the Lochgilphead Road
beyond Cromalt. We then passed, as on the first day,
Dahhenna and Killean, Achnagoul and Achindrain. The
last two places are old Highland villages, where a common
old practice, now fallen into disuse, continues, of which the
Duke gave me the following account :
In the Highlands of Scotland up to a comparatively
recent date the old system of village communities prevailed
as the common system of land tenure. Under this system
the cultivators were collected into groups or villages, the
cottages being all built close together on some one spot of
the farm. The farm itself was divided into pasture land
and arable land. The pasture land was held in common by
all the families, and the arable land was divided by lot every
year, so that each family might get its turn or its chance of
the better and the worse qualities of soil. This very rude
system is quite incompatible with any improved culture, but
is an extremely ancient one. Sir Henry Maine has lately
published a very interesting little book on the subject,
showing that it once prevailed all over Europe, and does
still actually prevail over the greater part of India. It has
now almost entirely disappeared in the Highlands, where
such crofters or very small cultivators as remain are gener-
ally separate from each other each living on his own croft
although there are still remaining many cases of pasture
or hill land held in common among several crofters.
Achnagoul, near Inveraray, is one of the old primitive
villages, where all the houses are built close together, and
where, as late as the year 1847, the old rude practice still
held that of an annual casting of lots for the patches of
arable land into which the farm was divided. At that time
there were sixteen families, and each of them cultivated
{ 206 )
perhaps twenty different patches of arable land separatee
from each other. About that year the families were per-
suaded with much difficulty to give up this old semi-barbar-
ous system and to divide the arable land into fixed divisions
one being assigned to each tenant, so that he could cultivate
on an improved system. But the village remains as it was
and is one of the comparatively few of that class which no\
remain in the Highlands.
They are said to be the only two villages of the kind ir
existence in the Highlands. The inhabitants are verj
exclusive, and hardly ever marry out of their own villages.
We went on between cur.ous, rather low, grass hills
on either side, some higher than others, and several of
which have small lochs at the tops with excellent trout,
as the Duke told us. He showed us some farms and other
glens, and had something to say about each place. We
next turned to the left, where we got into oak woods, pass-
ing some powder mills belonging to Sir G. Campbell, and
a small village called Cumlodden, or rather a row of huts in
which the people employed at the mills live, and from
here turned to the village of Furnace, inhabited by the men
who work the Duke's great quarries close to the sea, and
which is so called from a number of furnaces which were
used in the last century for smelting down lead brought
from England. The Duke showed us one remaining,
though in ruins, and we passed a quarry. The drive went
by the shore of Loch Fyne, much reminding me of the drive
along Loch Eil beyond Banavie, between trees on either
side, oak, ash, beech, etc., with much underwood, hazel,
bramble, etc., and we stopped at a point called Penny more,
where there is a small battery where Lome's volunteers
practise ; and here the view, looking down the loch towards
the sea and the Kyles of Bute with finely-shaped hills,
was very beautiful. The more distant hills were those
( 207 )
above Ardrishaig. I tried to sketch here after we had
taken our tea. We went along by Kenmore, Kilbryde and
Dalchenna (again), and it was a lovely evening, with such
soft tints on the distant hills, and the town in front backed
by trees. I took another sketch (only very slight, in
pencil) of this view from the Duchess's new school house,
called Creggarfs School.
We got home by half-past six. Besides our two
daughters and the Duke and Duchess, Lady Dufferin and
Colin Campbell dined with rne. Went as usual into the
drawing-room for a little while, and then went upstairs to
my room. Beatrice remained with Jane and me.
Sunday, September 26.
The morning was very wet, so decided after our usual
nice breakfast not to go out, but wrote, etc. At a quarter
to twelve we attended divine service in the house, in the
large dining-room, which is a long room. Dr. MacGregor
performed the service. Went afterwards into the drawing-
room and the two libraries, the newer of which had been
arranged by Louise and Lome. There are some fine
pictures in the drawing-room one of the Marquis ot
Argyll who was beheaded, of Field- Marshal Con way by
Gainsborough, of Duke Archibald, who built the house,
etc., also of the present Duke's handsome grandmother,
who married first a Duke of Hamilton, secondly a Duke
of Argyll.
Luncheon as usual. Then upstairs, and at twenty
minutes to four walked out with Louise, Beatrice, and
Jane Churchill, and went along by the river, which had
been over the road in the night, on to the "Miller's
Lynn" the first falls, which are very pretty and were very
i full, but are not near as high as the Garbhalt. We met
some of the party coming back, and then some way
farther up the river got into the carriage and drove to the
"middle fall" or Essachlay, where we got out and walked
to look at the fall; then drove to Lynn a Gluthen and
saw the third fall, after which we drove some distance
up Glen Aray, beyond Stronmagachan to Tullich Hill^
then back again past the stables, and on through the
Town Avenue back, and in by ten minutes past six.
Took tea with Beatrice and Louise, who came in
rather late, afterwards read and wrote. Besides Louise
and Beatrice, Lome, Elizabeth Campbell, Jane Churchill,
and Colonel Ponsonby dined with me. We went into
the drawing-room for a short while as usual.
Monday, September 27.
It was a dreadfully rough night, pouring and blowing
fearfully, and we heard it had thundered and lightened.
After our nice little breakfast and writing, I went out at
eleven with Louise, and met the Duke and the rest in the
pleasure-grounds, where I planted a small cedar of
Lebanon, the seed of which Lady Emma McNeill had
brought back from the East. Then went on a little
farther to where the road turns near the river, and planted
a small silver fir, opposite to a magnificent one which my
beloved Albert had admired in 1847. Beatrice walked
up meanwhile with Jane Churchill, Evelyn, and Frances
Campbell, to the top of the fine hill of Dunaqiwuh,
opposite the Castle, after seeing the trees planted, and
was to plant one herself when she came down. I drove
off with Louise past the Creitabhille Lodge, the granite
quarry (not, of course, the large ones which we saw on
Saturday in the deer forest), and then got out and walked
up a long steep path in the wood to obtain a view, of
which, however, we did not see much. I am sure we
2 9
walked a mile and a half up to the top, and it was a long
pull, but I walked well. However, in going down, the
wet grass and moss made me slip very much, having no
nails to my boots, and twice I came down completely.
We drove back by Essachosan as quickly as we could
at a quarter to one. The trees are wonderfully thick,
and the tangled undergrowth of fern etc. is almost like a
jungle. We had hardly any rain. Luncheon as usual.
Drawing. The views from my room were so fine.
While I was dressing to go out, Louise brought in Archi-
bald Campbell's two lovely little children, little Neil, a
dear pretty fair boy of three, very like Archie as a child,
and the baby, Elspeth, who is beautiful: brown curly hair,
enormous dark blue eyes fringed with very long dark
eyelashes, and a small mouth and nose.
At ten minutes to four drove off in the waggonette
with Louise, Beatrice, and Lome, out by the approach
along the foot of Dunaquoich, past the yew and chestnut
avenue, over the Garonne Bridge, along the lochside, an
excellent road, much wooded, and commanding a beauti-
ful view of the opposite shore and hills of Ardkinglass,
past the Strone Point, Achnatra, and the ruins of the old
castle or tower of Dunderave, which formerly belonged
to the McNaghtons, who subsequently settled in Ireland,
on to the head of Loch Fyne. There we turned up to the
left and drove up Glen Fyne, a very wild narrow glen with
hardly any trees, and the water of the Fyne running
through it. The high green hills with rugged grey rocks
reminded me of the Spital of Glenshee and of Altanour
(Lord Fife's). We drove up to a very small shooting-
lodge, the property of Mr. Callander, brother-in-law to
Lord Archibald, where a keeper with a nice wife lives.
A.S it was beginning to rain, we went into the house and
:ook our (made) tea, and I sketched. Janie Campbell
p
(Lady Archibald) and her two sisters lived here for some
time. The Duke was their guardian. We drove back
the same way, and encountered a tremendous shower,
which only ceased as we were quite near home. We
were home at twenty minutes to seven. Besides Louise
and Beatrice, the Duke and Duchess and Sir John and
Lady Emma McNeill dined with me. Mr. D. Macleod
gone; the others remain.
Tuesday, September 28.
Bright and then showery. At a little past eleven
drove with Louise and Beatrice along the sea-shore as
far as Douglass Water Point, where we stopped to sketch
between the frequent showers, the view being lovely and
the lights so effective.
Home through the town, by a quarter to one.
Painting. Luncheon as each day, after which again
painting. At a quarter to four started off in a shower in
the waggonette, with Louise, Beatrice, and Jane Churchill,
for Glen Shira. We drove by the approach through the
fine old avenue of beeches which suffered so much two
years ago. This time along the right side of the Dhu
Loch, which is three-quarters of a mile long, up to the
head of Glen Shira, which is seven miles distant from
the upper end of the loch, and is lovely. We had driven
up a good way last Thursday, as far as Drumlee. It is a
lovely glen, wilder and much shut in as you advance,
with fine rocks appearing through the grassy hills, and
thickly wooded at the bottom. We passed two farms,
and then went up to where the glen closes, and on the
brae there is a keeper's cottage, just above which are the
remains of a house where Rob Roy lived for some time
concealed, but on sufferance. His army or followers
were hidden in Glen Shira.
We got out here to look at some fine falls of the river
S/nra, a linn falling from a height to which footpaths had
been made. Then drove on a little farther, and stopped
to take our tea. We stopped twice afterwards to make a
slight sketch of this lovely green glen, so picturesque
and peaceful-looking, and then to take another view from
the lower end of the Dim Loch, in which Louise helped
me. She also sketched the glen, and had done a sketch
this morning. She has such talent, dear good child, and
I felt so sad to leave her. The evening was quite fine,
it having cleared up and all the heavy clouds vanished
when we arrived at the head of the glen. In at twenty
minutes past six. Busy arranging papers, painting, etc.
Besides Louise and Beatrice, the Duke and Duchess,
Lady Dufferin and Mr. J. Campbell dined with me.
Went again into the drawing-room and took leave of the
Dufferins, who were to go next day. He starts on the
8th for Canada. Dear Louise came up with me to my
room, and stayed a little while talking with me.
Wednesday, September 29.
Vicky's and Fritz's engagement day already twenty
years ago ! God bless them !
Got up before eight, and at half-past eight break-
fasted for the last time with dear Louise and Beatrice.
Then dressed before half-past nine and went downstairs.
The early morning was fair, though misty, but unfortu-
nately by half-past eight the mist had come down and it
rained. It was decided that the horses should go back
overland (having had such a terrible journey from the
difficult embarkation and landing) by Dalmally, stopping
all night at Tyndrum and corning on next day. The van
was to 1^0 by sea. Some of the things belonging to our
I' 2
toilettes (which were in far too cumbrous boxes) we kept
with us. I took leave of the whole family,* including
the McNeills, and, with a heavy heart, of my darling
Louise. It rained very much as we drove off, and for
some time afterwards, to make it more melancholy.
We left Inveraray at half-past nine, and drove out by
the same gateway as on our arrival, but afterwards went
along the sea-shore to the head of the loch. We then
turned to the right, still along the lochside, and changed
horses at twenty minutes to eleven at a small inn called
Catrndow, where the dear little Campbell children are stay-
ing, and who were at the window such lovely children !
There were a few people collected, and the harness as
well as the horses had to be changed, and a pair of leaders
put on to pull us up the long steep ascent in Glenkinglass.
This caused a delay of ten minutes or a quarter of an
hour. It rained rather heavily, the mist hanging over
the hills most provokingly. We passed Ardkinglass (Mr.
Calender's), and then turned up to the left through the
very wild and desolate Glenkinglass. The high green hills
with hardly any habitations reminded me of the Spital of
Glenshee. The mist lifted just enough to let one see the
tops of the hills below which we were passing. The road
was steep, and, just as we were getting near the top, the
leaders, which had repeatedly stopped, refused to pull any
farther, reared and kicked and jibbed, so that we really
thought we should never get on, and should perhaps have
to sleep at some wayside inn. But we stopped, and Brown
had the leaders taken off near a small tarn, called Loch
Restel, and he and Francie walked. We then got on much
better. A little farther on we passed a few scattered huts,
and at last we reached the top of this long ascent. The
* Elizabeth, Duchess of Argyll, died May 25, 1878.
rain, which had been very heavy just when our plight was
at its worst, stopped, and the day cleared.
At the summit of the pass is the spot called Rest and
be thankful, from an inscription cut upon a stone by the
regiment that made the road, which was one of the mili-
tary roads to open up the Highlands constructed by
Government under the superintendence of Marshal Wade.
The stone still remains, but the words are much defaced.
Here we came upon the splendid steep wild pass of Glen
Croe, something like Glencoe, but not so fine and the road
much steeper. It reminds me of the Devil's Elbow, and
even of the DeviFs Bridge in the Goschenen Pass on the
St. Gothard. We got out and walked down the road,
which goes in a zigzag. A few people who had walked
up from the coach were standing there. As at Glencoe the
stream flows in the hollow of the pass, and there were some
cattle and a house or two. The sun even came out all at
once and lit up the wild grand scene. We got into the car-
riage near the bottom, and drank Fritz and Vicky's healths.
There was no more heavy rain, though there were
frequent showers succeeded by most brilliant sunshine.
We drove on under and by trees, and saw high hill-tops,
including the peak of Ben Lomond, and then came upon
Loch Long, a sea loch, which we sailed up in 1847, and
drove part of the way along the shore, on the opposite side
of which lie Arrochar and several pretty villas. We went
round the head of the loch, where stood Lady Welby (for-
merly Victoria Wortley) and her children, and drove along
under an arch near the bridge, passing through the village
of Arrochar, which is in Dumbartonshire, and here had a
very good view of the celebrated Cobbler, or Ben Arthur.
We next changed horses at Tarbet, quite a small village,
where there was a sort of arch, composed of laurels and
flowers stretched across the road. There were a good
( 214 )
many people here, who pressed in upon us a good deal.
Here General Ponsonby presented Mr. H. E. Crum
Ewing, Lord-Lieutenant si Dumbartonshire, He preceded
us a little way in his carriage, and then followed us.
The drive along Loch Lomond, which we came upon
almost immediately after Tarbet, was perfectly beautiful.
We wound along under trees on both sides, with the
most lovely glimpses of the head of the loch, and ever
and anon of Loch Lomond itself below the road ; the
hills which rose upon our right reminding me of Aberfoyle,
near Loch Ard, and of the lower part of the Pilatus,
Such fine trees, numbers of hollies growing down almost
into the water, and such beautiful capes and little bays
and promontories ! The loch was extremely rough, and
so fierce was the wind, that the foam was blown like smoke
along the deep blue of the water. The gale had broken
some trees. The sun lit up the whole scene beautifully,
but we had a few slight showers. It reminded me of
Switzerland. I thought we saw everything so much better
than we had formerly done from the steamer. As we
proceeded, the hills became lower, the loch widened, and
the many wooded islands appeared. We next changed
horses at Lass, quite a small village indeed the little inn
stands almost alone, and they drove us close up to it, but
there was a great crowding and squeezing, and some <
children screamed with fright ; two presented nosegays
to Beatrice and me, and a poor woman offered me a bag
of "sweeties."
From here we drove along past the openings of Glen
Luss and Glen Finlas, which run up amongst the fine hills j
to the right, the loch being on our left, and the road much j
wooded. There are slate quarries close to Luss. About ;
two miles from Luss we drove through Sir J. Colquhoun's
place, Rossdlm, which commands a beautiful view of Ben
Lomond and the loch, and drove up to the house, where
Highland volunteers were drawn up, and where we
stopped without getting out of the carriage, and I received
a nosegay from a little girl, and a basket of fruit. Sir J.
Colquhoun's father was drowned two years ago in the loch,
crossing over from an island where he had been shooting,
and the body was not found for a fortnight ; the keepers
with him were also drowned. We drove on, passing
several other places, and everywhere were arches of
flowers, flags, etc., and the poorest people had hung out
handkerchiefs for flags. We were followed by endless
" machines " full of people, and many on foot running,
and our horses were bad and went very slowly. However,
as we approached Balloch, through which we did not pass,
but only went up to the station, though the crowds were
very great, perfect order was kept. The militia was out, and
we got quite easily into the train at a quarter-past three.
Here again a nosegay was presented, and Mr. A. Orr
Ewing, member for the county, and Mr. Smollett, the
Convener, whom we had seen on board the steamer six
years ago, were presented. Balloch is a manufacturing
place for dyeing, and is connected with the trade in
Glasgow. We had some cold luncheon as soon as we
got into the train.
Our next stoppage was at Stirling, where there was an
immense concourse of people, and the station prettily
decorated. The evening was very fine, the pretty scenery
appearing to great advantage, and the sky lovely. After
this it got rapidly dark. We stopped at Perth and at the
Bridge of Dun, where Jane Churchill got into our carriage
i and we had some tea ; and then at Aberdeen, where it
poured. At twenty minutes to ten we arrived at Ballater,
and at once got into our carriage, and reached Balmoral
at twenty-five minutes to eleven.
HIGHLAND FUNERAL.
OCTOBER 1875.
Thursday, October 21, 1875.
Much grieved at its being a worse day than ever for
the funeral of Brown's father,* which sad ceremony was
to take place to-day. The rain is hopeless the ninth
day ! Quite unheard of ! I saw good Brown a moment
before breakfast ; he was low and sad, and then going
off to Micras. At twenty minutes to twelve drove with
Beatrice and Janie Ely to Micras. As we drove up (un-
fortunately raining much) we met Dr. Robertson, and all
along near the house were numbers of people Brown
told me afterwards he thought above a hundred. All my
keepers, Mitchell the blacksmith (from Clachanturn),
Symon, Grant, Brown's five uncles, Leys, Thomson (post-
master), and the forester, people below Micras and in
Aberarder, and my people ; Heale, Lohlein (returned this
day from a week's leave), Cowley Jarrett, Ross and Collins
(sergeant footman), Brown and his four brothers,f in-
cluding Donald (who only arrived last night, and went to
the Bush, his brother William's farm), took us to the
* He had died on the i8th, aged 86, at Micras, opposite Aber-
geldie, on the other side of the river.
f The fifth, Hugh (who, since May 1883, has been my High-
land attendant), was then in New Zealand.
kitchen, where was poor dear old Mrs. Brown sitting near
the fire and much upset, but still calm and dignified ;
Mrs. William Brown was most kind and helpful, and the
old sister-in-law and her daughter ; also the Hon. M.
West, Mr. Sahl, Drs. Marshall and Profeit, Mr. Begg, and
Dr. Robertson, who came in later. The sons, and a few
whom Brown sent out of the kitchen, were in the other
small room, where was the coffin. A small passage
always divides the kitchen and the sitting-room in this
old sort of farmhouse, in front of which is the door the
only door. Mr. Campbell, the minister of Crathie, stood
in the passage at the door, every one else standing close
outside. As soon as he began his prayer, poor dear old
Mrs. Brown got up and came and stood near me able
to hear, though, alas ! not to see and leant on a chair
during the very impressive prayers, which Mr. Campbell
gave admirably. When it was over, Brown came and
begged her to go and sit down while they took the coffin
away, the brothers bearing it. Every one went out and
followed, and we also hurried out and just saw them place
the coffin in the hearse, and then we moved on to a hill-
ock, whence we saw the sad procession wending its way
sadly down. The sons were there, whom I distinguished
easily from their being near good Brown, who wore his
kilt, walking near the hearse. All walked, except our
gentlemen, who drove. It fortunately ceased raining just
then. I went back to the house, and tried to soothe and
comfort dear old Mrs. Brown, and gave her a mourning
brooch with a little bit of her husband's hair which had
been cut off yesterday, and I shall give a locket to each
of the sons.
When the coffin was being taken away, she sobbed
bitterly.
We took some whisky and water and cheese, according
( 218 )
to the universal Highland custom, and then left, begging
the dear old lady to bear up. I told her the parting was
but for a time. We drove quickly on, and saw them go
into the kirkyard, and through my glasses I could see
them carry the coffin in. I was grieved I could not be in
the kirkyard.
Saw my good Brown at a little before two. He said
all had gone off well, but he seemed very sad ; he had to
go back to Micras to meet all the family at tea. All this
was terribly trying for the poor dear old widow, but could
not be avoided. Already, yesterday morning, she had
several of the wives and neighbours to tea. Every one
was very kind and full of sympathy, and Brown was
greatly gratified by the respect shown to him and his
family to-day.
UNVEILING OF THE STATUE OF THE PRINCE
CONSORT AT EDINBURGH, 1876.
Holyrood, August 17, 1876.
Beloved Mama's birthday.
How often she came to Edinburgh for a few days on
her way to and from Abergeldie, and how much she
always liked it !
We arrived yesterday morning at Edinburgh at eight
o'clock. Had had a good night. Unfortunately the
weather was misty, and even a little rain fell. No dis-
tance could well be seen. Dear Arthur came to break-
fast (always in uniform).* At eleven o'clock went and
sat out till half-past twelve, under an umbrella and with
screens, on the side of the Abbey facing Arthur's Seat,
Wrote and signed, Brown always helping to dry the
signatures.
Read also in the papers a very nice account given in
the " Courant " of what passed yesterday. Many inter-
ruptions. The day improving. Crowds flocking into the
town, troops marching, bands playing just as when any
great event takes place in London.
The last time that my dearest Albert ever appeared in
* He was then Major in the 7th Hussars, and living at the
Piers Hill Barracks, near Edinburgh, where his regiment was
quartered.
( 220 )
public was in Edinburgh on October 23 [1861], only six
weeks before the end of all, when he laid the first stone of
the new Post Office, and I looked out of the window to see
him drive off in state, or rather in dress, London carriages,
and the children went to see the ceremony. It was in
Edinburgh^ too, that dearest Mama appeared for the last
time in public being with me at the Volunteer Review
in 1860, which was the first time she had driven with me
in public for twenty years !
Dear Arthur could not come to luncheon, as he was
on duty. At half-past three we started in three carriages :
Beatrice, Leopold, and I in the third ; Brown (in full
dress) and Collins behind ; Leopold in the Highland
dress; dear Arthur, commanding the full Sovereign's escort
of the 7th Hussars, riding next to me.
We drove out to the right by Abbey Hill, the Regent
Road, Princes Street, then turning into St. Andrew Square,
along George Street 'to Charlotte Square. Enormous crowds
everywhere clustering upon the Calton .S/7/and round and
upon all the high monuments. The decorations were
beautiful along the streets and on the houses, Venetian
masts with festoons of flags on either side of Princes Street
and St. Andrew Street. St. Andrew Square also was beauti-
fully decorated, and the few inscriptions were very touching
and appropriate. The day was quite fair, though dull
(which, however, under the circumstances, was better than
a very scorching sun like yesterday) and heavy, and not
clear as to distance. The crowd, which was all along most
hearty and enthusiastic, was densest at Charlotte Square.
The Duke of Buccleuch received us, and the Royal
Archers kept the ground.
We walked up to a dais handsomely arranged, where
I stood between Beatrice and Leopold (who were a little
behind me). Dear Arthur's sense of duty was so great,
221
( 222 )
Mr. Steell, the sculptor, was presented, and this was
followed by the singing of another beautiful chorale, with
touching words and music, the latter composed by Pro-
fessor Oakeley, who is a wonderful musician, and plays
beautifully on the organ. We then, followed by our own
suite, the Committee, and Mr. Steell, walked round the
Statue and examined the groups of bas-reliefs. The
three sculptors who had executed the groups were also
presented. Brown followed us round, having stood behind
us the whole time. He was delighted with the reception.
We drove back by South Charlotte Street and Princes
Street. The horses of the Yeomanry and even some of
the Hussars were very restive, and kept plunging and
whirling round upon our horses. One of the Hussars, in
particular, got in between our horses, and nearly caused
an accident. We got back by ten minutes to five o'clock.
We looked out of the window to see Arthur * ride off,
and then I knighted Mr. Steell, who looked very happy.
He has now long white hair such a kind, good man ! I
also knighted Professor Oakeley, who is still very lame,
having met with a dreadful accident in Switzerland some
years ago. His mother was a Murray (daughter of Lord
Charles Murray Aynsley) and sister to the mother of
Mrs. Drummond of Megginch, and his sister married an
uncle of Fanny Drummond. Dear Augusta Stanley took
much interest in him.
* Arthur was attended by Lieutenant-Colonel Pickard, R.H.A.,
who had been with him since 1867. He entered the Queen's
service 1st January, 1878, as Groom-in-Waiting, and became
Assistant Privy Purse and Assistant Private Secretary in October
1878. He was a charming, amiable person, much devoted to
Arthur and to me. He died at the age of forty of consumption at
Cannes, March I, 1 880, deeply regretted by us and by all who
knew him.
I had a large dinner in the old dining-room below,
where I had not dined since my darling Albert's time in
1 86 1. I sat in the middle, opposite to where I used to sit.
The party consisted of Arthur, who led me in and sat
near me, and Leopold and Beatrice, all our people, the
Duke of Buccleuch (who sat near me) and Lady Mary
Scott, Lord Lothian (the Duke's son-in-law), Lord Dal-
keith, young Lord Elgin, Lord Rosebery, the Dowager
Lady Dunmore and Lady Adine Murray, Lord and Lady
Elphinstone, Sir John and Lady Emma McNeill, Mr.
Cross, the Honourable B. Primrose, Major-General J. N.
Stuart, and Colonel Hale of the 7th Hussars (Colonel of
dear Arthur's regiment). The band of the yth Hussars
played during dinner, and Ross played during dessert.
Brown * waited on me.
Every one seemed pleased, and talked of the great
success of the day. Mr. Cross was delighted. I re-
mained talking some little time in the drawing-room, and
then went upstairs and looked with Beatrice out of the
window at the rockets. Such a noise in the streets and
from the trains !
* It was hard for him to have to appear on such a festive occa-
sion, having lost his much-loved mother only a fortnight before ;
but his sense of duty ever went before every feeling of self.
PRESENTATION OF COLOURS TO "TiiE
ROYAL SCOTS," SEPTEMBER, 1876.
Balmoral, September 26, 1876.
An earlier lunch. It had appeared to clear, and the
rain was far less heavy. We started at three. The ladies
and gentlemen had all gone on before in carriages, and
many of our people went to Ballater, as it was a great
novelty for the people here William Brown and his wife,
who had said yesterday she had never seen so many
soldiers together and would therefore like to go; Hugh
Brown and his wife. Mrs. Profeit* with her children was
there also. Alice, Beatrice, and Arthur were with me.
The weather held up while we were going to Ballater,
which we did in a closed landau (Brown and Collins on
the rumble.) Just outside the village we opened the
carriage. We drove to the left of the railway through a
wood, avoiding the town, preceded by Captain Charles
Phipps, as Assistant Adjutant Quartermaster-General, on
to the open space a beautiful position, with the noble
rocky high hill of Craig an Darraeh, at the foot of which
lie the Pass of Ballater and the park of Monaltrie House
with the hills opposite. Nothing could be finer. A
great many people were there, it is said between two and
three thousand; but none of the spectators were in uniform.
Alix was in a carriage, Bertie and the boys (in Highland
dress) and Prince John of Gliicksburgf on foot. They
stood near me, so did Arthur (also in his kilt), who had
got out of the carriage. Then followed, after the Royal
salute, the trooping of the colours, with all its peculiar
* Wife of my Commissioner at Balmoral,
f Uncle of the Princess of Wales.
and interesting customs, marching and counter-marching,
the band playing the fine old marches of the " Garb of
old Gaul" and " Dumbarton Drums," also the march from
the " Fille du Regiment," which was evidently played as
a compliment to me, whom they considered as " born in
the regiment," my father having commanded it at the
time I was born. Then came the piling of the drums
and the prayer by Mr. Middleton, minister of Ballater,
after which the new colours were given to me. I handed
them to the two sub-lieutenants who were kneeling, and
then I said the following words:
" In entrusting these colours to your charge, it gives
me much pleasure to remind you that I have been
associated with your regiment from my earliest infancy,
as my dear father was your Colonel. He was proud of
his profession, and I was always told to consider myself
a soldier's child. I rejoice in having a son who has
devoted his life to the army, and who, I am confident,
will ever prove worthy of the name of a British soldier.
I now present these colours to you, convinced that you
will always uphold the glory and reputation of iny first
Regiment of Foot the Royal Scots."
Colonel M'Guire then spoke a few words in reply, and
brought the old colours to me, and begged me to accept
them. In doing so, I said I should take them to Windsor,
and place them there in recollection of the regiment ana
their Colonel. Then they marched past well (they were
fine men), and after the Royal salute gave three cheers
for me. The 79th kept the ground and took charge of
the old colours. We left at once.
The rain continued persistently, having got worse
lust as the prayer began; but we kept the carriage open,
uid were back by half-past five.
I was terribly nervous while speaking.
Q
( 226 )
EXPEDITION TO LOCH MAREE,
SEPTEMBER 12-18, 1877.
Wednesday, September 12, 1877.
A dull morning, very mild. Had not a good night.
Up at a quarter-past eight, breakfasting at a quarter to
nine (I had packed my large boxes with papers etc., with
Brown, before breakfast on Monday, as all the heavier
luggage had to be sent on in advance), and at a quarter-
past nine left Balmoral with Beatrice and the Duchess of
Roxburghe, leaving Leopold, who was himself to start
at ten A.M. for Dunkeld. Brown on the rumble of the
landau, his leg now really fairly well, but he looks pulled.*
It began to rain very soon, and went on till we almost
reached JBallater, when we got into the railway. Here
General Ponsonby and Sir William Jenner met us. Wil-
more, Morgan, Cannon, Francie Clark (with darling
Noble), and Heir went with us. Annie Macdonald,
Hollis the cook, Lockwood, Seymour (who replaced
+
* When we went on board the "Thunderer," August 12, at'
Osborne, Brown had fallen through an open place inside the turret,
and got a severe hurt on the shin. He afterwards damaged it
again, when it was nearly healed, by jumping off the box of the
carriage, so that when he came to Balmoral about a fortnight after-
wards, it was very bad, and he was obliged to take care of it for
some days previous to the fresh journey
poor Goddard), and Lizzie Stewart (the housemaid) went
on before us on Monday.
The day cleared and gradually became very fine.
Passed through Aberdeen, which looked very handsome,
and where we much admired a new tower added to a
college. Stopped at Dyce Junction at nineteen minutes
to twelve. Near Aberdeen we saw the corn already cut,
which is unusually early. Passed close under Benachie,
the heather beautiful everywhere. At one o'clock we had
our luncheon, and dear Noble came in and was so good
and quiet. At twenty-five minutes past one stopped at
Keith, where we had stopped in 1872, and where we had
then been obliged to take two people into the carriage to
open a door through which the maids passed, and which
had got fixed.* The volunteers and a number of people
were waiting for us here. About Keith the corn was
sadly destroyed, but around Elgin it was better. Soon
after this appeared the lovely hills of the Moray Frith
really beautiful : the land-locked sea so blue, with heavy
fields of yellow corn (harvesting going on) in the undulat-
ing ground, with trees and woods here and there, formed
a lovely picture. An old ruined church (Kinloss Abbey)
we passed to the right, and Forres at eighteen minutes
past two. Then Nairn, lying low on the Frith, but very
picturesque with the hills rising around. Near here poor
Jane Churchill's sister, Cecilia Brinckman, died on
August 1 6, which is the cause that dear Jane is not
with us now. The heather was so brilliant, and the sea,
though very rough, was blue, which had a lovely effect ;
but the bracken, and even the trees, have begun to turn
here, as well as with us. Good crops about here. We
passed near Fort George, which lies very prettiy on
the shore of the Frith, but where we did not stop, and
* Vide expedition to Dunrobin, p. 122
Q2
( 228 )
Cidloden. At three minutes past three passed through
Inverness, where many people were out, and went quickly
past Beauty. As far as Dingwall we had travelled pre-
cisely the same way in going to Dunrobin in 1872. At
twenty minutes to four reached Dingwall, charmingly
situated in a glen, where we stopped, and where there
were a good many people waiting for us.
Here Sir Kenneth and Lady Mackenzie of Gairloch
met us with their three children, two boys and a girl. He
is a pleasing courteous person, and wore the kilt. He
has an immense property about here, and all round is the
Mackenzie country. Lady Mackenzie is the elder sister of
Lady Granville, and excessively like her. Soon after this
we took tea, which was pleasant and refreshing. From
Dingwall we turned to the left, and, instead of going on
by the main line to Tain, went through the celebrated
Strathpeffer, which is extremely pretty a wooded glen
with houses and cottages dotted about ; then on through
a wild glen, with hills, partly rocky, but with grass,
heather, and bracken, and some trees running up amidst
them. The railway goes along above and at some dis-
tance from the village, proceeding by way of Strath Bran
and Loch Luichart. There were occasional showers, with
gleams of sunshine always between.
We left the railway at Achnasheen, where we arrived
at a quarter to five, and where there are only a small
station and two or three little cottages. We three ladies
got into the sociable (Brown and Cannon on the box),
the two gentlemen and three maids followed in the
waggonette, and the other servants in " traps." Sir
Kenneth Mackenzie came as far as this small station,
where there were a Gaelic inscription and some plaids
arranged in festoons. The twenty miles drive from here,
through a desolate, wild, and perfectly uninhabited
country, was beautiful, though unfortunately we had
heavy showers. The first part winds along Loch Rusque
(Gaelic Chroisg\ a long narrow loch, with hills very like
those at the Spital and at Glen Muich rising on either
side. Looking back you see the three high peaks of
Scour-na-Vuilhn. The road continues along another
small loch : and then from the top of the hill you go
down a very grand pass called Glen Dochart, Here
Loch Maree came in view most beautifully. Very shortly
after this you come upon the loch, which is grand and
romantic, We changed horses at Kinlochewe, a small
inn, near to which is a shooting-lodge, which was for
some time rented by Lady Waterpark's son-in-law, Mr.
Clowes, and he and his wife used to live there a good
deal. They are now living near Gairloch, at Flowerdale^
another shooting-lodge of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie.
The drive along the lochside, for ten miles to the
hotel of Loch Maree, is beautiful in the extreme. The
hills to the right, as you go from Kinlochewe, are splendid
very high and serrated, with wood at the base of some
of them. One magnificent hill towers above the rest,
and is not unlike the Pilatus in shape, seen as it is from
our hotel, just as the Pilatus is seen from the Pension
Wallis. The windings of the road are beautiful, and
afford charming glimpses of the lake, which is quite
locked in by the overlapping mountains. There are
trees, above and below it, of all kinds, but chiefly birch,
pine, larch, and alder, with quantities of high and most
beautiful heather and bracken growing luxuriantly, high
rocks surmounting the whole. Here and there a fine
Scotch fir, twisted, and with a stem and head like a stone-
pine, stands out on a rocky projection into the loch,
relieved against the blue hills as in some Italian view.
Part of the way the road emerges altogether from the
trees, and passes by a mass of huge piled-up and tumbled-
about stones, which everywhere here are curiously
marked, almost as though they were portions of a build-
ing, and have the appearance of having been thrown
about by some upheaving of the earth. We had several
heavy showers, which produced a most brilliant rainbow,
with the reflection of a second, quite perfect. Then it
quite cleared up, and the sky was radiant with the setting
sun, which gave a crimson hue to all the hills, and lit up
Ben Sleach just as I remember having seen it light up
Ben Nevis and the surrounding hills at Inverlochy.
It was a little after seven when Loch Maree Hotel,
which stands close to the loch and to the road and is
surrounded by trees, was reached. At the entrance
there is no gate, merely a low wall open at either side to
admit carriages etc. It is a very nice little house, neatly
furnished. To the left, as you enter, are two good rooms
a large one called the coffee-room, in which we take
our meals, and the other, smaller, next to it, in which the
gentlemen dine. Up the small but easy short winding
staircase to the right come small, though comfortable,
rooms. To the left Beatrice's, and Brown's just opposite
to the right. Then up three steps is a small passage; at
the end, to the left, is my dear little sitting-room, looking
on to the loch, and to Ben Sleach and the road; it is very
full with my things. At the other end is my bed-room,
with two small rooms between for Wilmore and Annie.
On arriving heard that the Russians had bombarded
Plevna on the gth, and had repulsed a sortie of the Turks
with heavy loss. The bombardment continued again the
following day, and General Skobeleff occupied the heights.
We two and the Duchess dined together. The Duchess
read to me a sketch of Thiers' life. Good Brown waited,
and brought in my usual glass of water. Felt rather tired.
Dear Louis of Hesse's birthday God bless him!
Thursday, September 13,
It had rained a great deal through the night, and
the morning was dull. Had slept well. Beatrice and I
breakfasted together downstairs, where we also lunched.
Began to sketch, though there was no light and shade;
but the splendid mountain was clear. At eleven walked
out with Beatrice on the road to Kinlochewe, about a
mile, and back, greatly admiring the magnificent hills.
There is a bridge over a stream called Talladale, and
near it was a cottage, a miserable hovel, in which an old
man lived; he wore a coat and a high hat, and was much
pleased to see me, but said he " had very little English,"
which is the case with most people here. We gave him
something, and when Brown took it to him he asked the
old man the names of some of the hills.
The atmosphere was very close. In at half-past
twelve, and then I drew and painted. So hot ! It turned
to rain. Painted, read, wrote, etc., and then we took tea,
and at half-past five started with Beatrice and the Duchess
of Roxburghe (Brown and Francie on the box), and
drove on down the loch (the contrary way to that by
which we had come), under trees, through a larch wood,
winding above the loch for two miles, till we reached a
bridge, which goes over the stream of Garvaig, where
there is a descent to above Slatterdale, and thence drove
up a mountain pass to the left. There the hills are much
lower and curiously tumbled about, grass, fern, and
heather growing up their sides, with rocks at the tops
curious serrated, knobbed hills.
Passed a small loch called Padnascally, out of which
runs the Kerrie Water into another little loch. Here
the road winds along almost like the roads in Switzerland,
2 3 2 )
and is very precipitous on one side, passing above the
fine falls of the Kerrie, of which there are two or three
successions, with fine rocks and wooded banks, through
which the river seems to force its way. As Brown truly
observed, it was like Glenfeshie; only Glenfeshie has no
road, but a very narrow path, where one has to ford.
Looking back before you come to the falls there is a fine
view of Ben Evy. We drove quite down this pass to
Kerriesdale, at the bridge of which is a very pretty spot
with wooded hills leading on to Gairloch. We turned,
as it was late, and drove back the same way, getting
home by half-past seven. It was dull, and grey, and
dark, but did not rain till we came back. The Duchess
finished reading Thiers' life.
Friday, September 14.
An awful storm of rain, with wind, all night and a
good part of the morning. Breakfasted as yesterday.
At length we two went out, and walked for more than a
mile on the road by which we drove yesterday. The
rocky hills, rising above the road, with the fine trees and
undergrowth beneath them, remind me of the Lion's Face,
and of the Trossachs and Loch Eil. It cleared, the rain
ceased, and the day became fine, but very hot and
oppressive. In at twenty minutes to one. The view
from my little sitting-room is quite beautiful, Ben Sleach on
one side, and the splendid loch, with the other fine rocky
mountains and green island, on the other. One would
like to sketch all day. More telegrams.
At half past three we started in two carriages, we
three ladies in one, and the two gentlemen in the
waggonette (Brown with us, and Francie with the next).
We went just the same way as yesterday, but changed
horses at Kerrie's Bridge, and turning to the left went a
( =33 )
short way down a bad road, through a small wood of oaks,
to Shieldaig, where there is a small cottage on the sea
with a pretty garden, where Lord Bristol and Mr.
Bateson live. But there is no road beyond, and we had
to turn and go back again. We then drove over the
bridge by a lovely wood of larch and other trees, through
which flows a small river, and ascended a hill, passing by
Flowerdale to Gairloch, which is on the sea. It consists
of only a very few houses dotted about the kirk, manse,
bank, and on the highest point the hotel. The hills
immediately to the right and left of the fine bay are not
very high. But high wooded hills are at the back of
the Gairloch, which is open to the Atlantic. Here we
turned round and drove straight back again the same
way, the few inhabitants having come out to gieet us.
After passing Kerne's Bridge, we stopped to take our
(made) tea. The afternoon and evening were beautiful.
We got home at a quarter to seven. The post comes in
at a quarter to four and at half-past nine. The climate
is very warm and muggy. Dinner as usual. After dinner
played with Beatrice on the piano.
Saturday, September 1 5.
A fair morning. Up early after a very good night
There is a perfect plague of wasps, and we are obliged to
have gauze nailed down to keep these insects out when
the windows are open, which, as the climate is so hot, they
have to be constantly. I had to put on quite thin things
again. Decided, after some little doubt, to make an ex-
pedition for the day to Torridon, described as fine and
wild. There was a heavy shower before we started.
Had been sketching and painting.
At half-past twelve we started in the waggonette, with
234 )
Beatrice, the Duchess (who is delighted with everything),
and General Ponsonby and Brown on the box. The
day was very fine ; we had only two or three showers,
which lasted a few minutes. We drove on to Kinlocheive,
where we took fresh horses, and a capital pair of bay ones
we had. The sun was brilliant, and lit up the magnifi-
cent scenery beautifully. Halfway we crossed the bridge
of Grudie (from which Ben Sleach is seen to advantage),
a very pretty rapid burn, with fine fir trees, and a glen
running up to the right i.e. to the south. At Kinlochewe
we turned up to the right by the stream of Garry, moun-
tains towering up, as we advanced, like mighty giants,
and coming one by one and unexpectedly into view. To
the left we passed a pretty, small loch, called Loch Clare,
which runs back into a wooded glen at the foot of high
hills. Sir Ivor Guest has a shooting-lodge near, and you
can just see a small house amongst the trees.
Soon after this the grand, wild, savage-looking, but
most beautiful and picturesque Glen of Torridon opened
upon us, with the dark mural precipices of that most
extraordinary mountain Ben Ltughach, which the people
pronounce Liarach. We were quite amazed as we drove
below it. The mountains here rise so abruptly from
their base that they seem much higher than our Aber-
deenshire mountains, although, excepting Ben Sleach
(3,216 feet) and a few others, the hills are not of any
remarkable height, and the level of the country or land
itself is barely a hundred feet above the sea, whereas Bal-
moral is eight hundred feet to begin with. All the hills
about Loch Maree and this glen, and elsewhere in this
neighbourhood, are very serrated and rocky. Ben Liar-
ach is most peculiar from its being so dark, and the rocks
like terraces one above the other, or like fortifications
and pillars most curious ; the glen itself is very flat, and
the mountains rise very abruptly on either side. There
were two cottages (in one of which lived a keeper), a few
cattle, and a great many cut peats.
We came to the Upper Loch Torridon, which is
almost landlocked and very pretty. In the distance the
hills of Skye were seen. Village there really is none, and
the inn is merely a small, one-storied, " harled " house,
with small windows. We drove beyond the habitations
to a turn where we could not be overlooked, and
scrambled up a bank, where we seated ourselves, and at
twenty minutes to three took our luncheon with good
appetite. The air off the mountains and the sea was
delicious, and not muggy. We two remained sketching,
for the view was beautiful. To the right were the hills of
Skye, rising above the lower purple ones which closed in
the loch. To the south, nearly opposite to where I sat,
was Apphcross (formerly Mackenzie property), which now
belongs to Lord Middleton, and the high mountains of
Ben Hecklish and Ben Damph, with, in the distance north-
wards, the white peaks of Ben Liarach. We were nearly
an hour sitting there, and we got down unwillingly, as it
was so fine and such a wild uncivilised spot, like the end
of the world. There was a school, standing detached by
itself, which had been lately built. The property here
belongs to a Mr. Darroch, whose two little boys rode past
us twice with a groom. An old man, very tottery, passed
where I was sketching, and I asked the Duchess of
Roxburghe to speak to him ; he seemed strange, said he
had come from America, and was going to England, and
thought Torridon very ugly !
We walked along, the people came out to see us, and
we went into a little merchant's shop, where we all
bought some trifles just such a " shoppie " as old
Edmonston's, and the poor man was so nervous he threw
almost everything down. I got some very good com-
forters, two little woven woollen shawls, and a very nice
cloak. We had spoken to a woman before, but she
could not understand us, only knowing Gaelic, and had
to ask another younger woman to help.
A little farther off the road, and more on the slope of
the hill, was a row of five or six wretched hovels, before
which stood barelegged and very ill-clad children, and
poor women literally squatting on the ground. The
people cheered us and seemed very much pleased. Hardly
any one ever comes here. We had now to get into the
carriage, and one of the horses was a little restive ; but
we soon started off all right, much interested by our ad-
ventures. We admired the splendid mountain again on
our way back, and enjoyed our expedition very much.
One very short shower we had, before coming to Kinloch-
ewe, where we again changed horses, and were home at
our nice little house by nearly seven, when Beatrice and
I had some welcome tea. Later our usual dinner ; then
Beatrice played, and we afterwards played together.
Sunday, September 16.
A most beautiful bright morning, with a slight cloud
overhanging Ben Sleach, which is very often not clear
at the top. There was a heavy shower, which came on
quite unexpectedly. We walked out at half-past eleven,
and after some three hundred yards turned up a path to
the right, off the road to Kinlochewe, under oak and
rowan trees, through very wet grass and fern, to where
stood two very poor- looking low cottages. We looked
into one, out of which came a tidy-looking woman, but
who could hardly understand or speak a word of English.
We then looked into the second, where Baldry lodged ;
( 237 )
it was wet and muddy, almost to the door, and the inside
very low and close, but tidy. The " gudewife " came up
and spoke to us, also like a foreigner, with difficulty.
She was a nice, tidy-looking woman, and gave her name
as Mrs. McRae, and the place is called " Sliorach" She
knew us at least Brown told her it was the " Bhan
Righ " with her daughter, and gave her some money.
We returned as we had come, and went on some way
in the other direction, coming in at twenty minutes to
one. Read prayers, etc. There is no kirk nearer than
Kinlochewe and Gairloch, and people had been seen
passing on foot as early as half-past seven to Gairloch.
At half-past four Beatrice, the Duchess of Roxburghe,
and I started in a four-oared gig, steered by Hormsby
the landlord, a very nice, quiet, youngish man, and
rowed to the Isle of ' Maree ("Eilan Maree"), which is not
visible from the house, being concealed by some of the
larger islands. Contrary to what is stated in the Guide,
it is the smallest of them. It was delightful rowing
through these wooded and rocky islands, with the blue,
calm loch not another sound but the oars the lovely
blue and purple distant hills on the one side, and the
splendid peaks of Ben Sleach and its surrounding moun-
tains on the other.
The boat was pushed on shore, and we scrambled
out and walked through the tangled underwood and
thicket of oak, holly, birch, ash, beech, etc., which covers
the islet, to the well, now nearly dry, which is said to be
celebrated for the cure of insanity. An old tree stands
close to it, and into the bark of this it is the custom,
from time immemorial, for every one who goes there to
insert with a hammer a copper coin, as a sort of offering
to the saint who lived there in the eighth century, called
Saint Maolruabh or Mulroy. The saint died near Apple-
cross in 722, and is said to have rested under a rock,
which is still shown, close to Torridon. Some say that
the name of Maree was derived from " Mulroy," others
from "Mary." We hammered some pennies into the
tree, to the branches of which there are also rags and
ribbons tied. We then went on to where there are
some old grave-stones : two belonged to the tomb of
a Norwegian or Danish princess, about whose untimely
death there is a romantic story. There are also modern
graves, and only eight years ago one of the family of
the McLeans was buried there, the island being their
burying place. The remains of the old wall of the
monastery are still to be seen. The island is barely a
quarter of a mile across at the widest part, and not above
half a mile in circumference. Some of the larger islands
have red deer on them. We walked along the beach and
picked up stones, then rowed back as we had come. It
took about twenty minutes. Four very respectable-
looking men (one a very good-looking young farmer)
rowed the boat. After landing, we got into the waggon-
ette and drove to a bridge just beyond where the trees
cease on the Gairloch Road, about two miles from the
hotel. Here we first took our tea, and then got out and
scrambled up a steep bank to look at a waterfall, a pretty
one, but very inferior to those in our neighbourhood at
Balmoral-, walked down again and drove home by a
quarter-past seven.
Reading ; writing. Beatrice's room is a very pretty
one, but very hot, being over the kitchen. Brown's, just
opposite, also very nice and not hot, but smaller. After
dinner the Duchess of Roxburghe read a little out of the
newspapers. Saw Sir William Jenner.
( 2 39 )
Monday ', September 17.
A splendid bright morning, like July ! Have had
such good nights since we came, and my own comfort-
able bed. Sketched and painted after breakfast. At ten
minutes past eleven walked out with Beatrice the same
way as yesterday, and turned up to the right and looked
at the farm, where the horses for the coach are kept.
This coach is like a great break, and is generally full of
people ; we met it each morning when out walking. We
then went on past Talladale, where lives the old man to
whom we spoke on Thursday, and whom we saw get off
the coach this morning, having been to Gairloch for
church, of which he is an elder. Here three or four very
poorly dressed bairns were standing and sitting about,
and we gave them biscuits and sandwiches out of the
luncheon-box. The midges are dreadful, and you can-
not stand for a moment without being stung. In at
twenty minutes to one. I remained sketching the
lovely views from the windows in the dining-room, and
then sketched the beautiful mountain also.
After luncheon some doubt as to what should be
done, but decided not to go to Pool Ewe, beyond Gair-
loch, but on to Kerrie's Bridge to meet the good people
who had asked permission to come over from Stornoway,
in the Isle of Lewis, to see " their beloved Queen." Drew
again. At ten minutes past four we two and the Duchess
of Roxburghe started in the waggonette, General Pon-
sonby and Brown on the box. We went by the same
pretty winding road ; but the Kerrie Falls were not
nearly so full as on Friday after the heavy rain.
As we approached Kerne's Bridge, we saw a number
of people standing on the road, and we drew up to where
they were and stopped the carriage. General Ponsonby
presented the minister, Mr. Greenfield, who had come over
with them. They sang " God save the Queen " with most
loyal warmth ; and their friendly faces and ringing cheers,
when we arrived and when we left, were very gratifying.
It took them three hours to come over, and they were
going straight back. There were two hundred and fifty
of them of all classes, from the very well dressed down to
the poorest, and many fishermen amongst them. We
met many of these on Saturday coming back from having
sold their fish, and also on the coaches. As we returned,
we met the coach where there was only just room to
pass.
We stopped after we had got up to the top of the hill,
overlooking the falls, and took our tea (already made,
and brought with us), but were much molested by midges.
We drove to above Slatterdale, where there is such a
splendid view of the loch and of Ben Sleach ; and the
hills looked so beautifully pink. We walked on down to
the small waterfall which we visited yesterday, and then
drove home (General Ponsonby having walked back) by
half- past seven. Reading and writing. Continued tele-
grams. General Ponsonby and Sir William Jenner dined
also with us.
Got a few trifles from Gairloch, though very few were
to be had, to give as souvenirs to my good people.
Brown's leg, though he had to stand so much, did not
hurt him, which I was thankful for, and he has waited at
all our meals, made my coffee in the morning, etc. I
was sorry it was our last night here, and would have liked
to stay two or three days longer ; but dear Arthur has
been, since Saturday, at Balmoral, and he must leave
again on the 29th. Have enjoyed this beautiful spot and
glorious scenery very much. The little house was cosy
and very quiet, and there were no constant interruptions
as at home. Only dear Beatrice suffered much from
rheumatism, which was very vexatious. Nearly opposite
is a Mr. Banks's place, called Letter Ewe, which he lets.
Tuesday, September 18.
A wet, misty morning, no hills whatever to be seen.
Got up early and breakfasted at half- past eight, and at a
quarter to nine we left with regret our nice cosy little
hotel at Loch Maree, which I hope I may some day see
again. Changed horses at Kinlochewe. The beautiful
scenery was much obscured, but it got better as we went
on, though it was not a really fine day. At a little before
half-past eleven we reached Achnasheen, where Mr. (now
Sir Alexander) Matheson, M.P. (who is chairman of the
railway company, and has property farther north), met us.
Here we got into the train, and went on without stopping
to Dingwall ; Strathpeffer, and Castle Leod, which belongs
to the Duchess of Sutherland, partly hidden among trees,
looked very pretty. The lochs of Luichart and Garve
are most picturesque. We stopped at Dingwall, and
Keith, and Dyce Junction as before. We had our luncheon
; at one o'clock, before coming to Keith, and tea after the
Dyce Junction. Dear Noble was so good on the railway,
I and also at Loch Maree, where he came to our meaJs ;
! but he was lost without his companions.
We reached Ballater^ six. A very threatening even-
ling. Such dark, heavy clouds, and the air much lighter
than at Loch Maree, We reached Balmoral at a quarter
to seven. Dear Arthur received us downstairs, and came
up with us and stayed a little while with me. He had
been out deer-stalking these two days, but got nothing.
( 242 )
VISIT TO BROXMOUTH.
Friday, August 23, 1878.
Had to dine at half-past five. At six o'clock, with
much regret, left dear Osborne, with Beatrice and Leopold,
and embarked on board the " Alberta " at Trinity Pier.
We had a delightful passage, but the weather looked very
threatening behind us. Passing close to the " Osborne,"
we saw Bertie, Alix, the boys, and the King of Denmark
standing on the paddle-box. As we steamed across we
saw the poor " Eurydice " lying close off what is called
" No Man's Land" as we had seen her the day of the
Review, in fearful contrast to the beautiful fleet ! We at
once entered the railway train ; poor Sir J. Garvock (who
has resigned) was too ill to appear. We stopped at Ban-
bury for refreshments, and I lay down after eleven o'clock.
At Carlisle (at five or six in the morning) Lord Bridport,
Harriet Phipps, and Mary Lascelles (who had joined at
Banbury), Fraulein Bauer, and two of my maids left us
to go to Balmoral, while Janie Ely, General Ponsonby,
Sir W. Jenner, Mr. Yorke, Brown, Emilie, Annie, anc
three footmen went on with us to Broxmouth.
Saturday, August 24.
Had not a very gcod night, and was suffering frc
a rather stiff shoulder. It was a very wet morning.
243
Dunbar, which we reached at a quarter to nine (where
the station was very prettily decorated), were the Duke
and Duchess of Roxburghe, the Grant-Sutties, the Pro-
vost, and Lord Haddington, Lord- Lieutenant of the
county. We got into one of my closed landaus Beatrice,
Leopold, the Duchess of Roxburghe, and I the others
following, and drove through a small portion of Dunbar,
Lord Haddington riding to Broxmouth, about a mile and
a' quarter from Dunbar, People all along the road, arches
and decorations on the few cottages, and very loyal
greetings.
The park is fine, with noble trees and avenues. It
is only a quarter of a mile from the sea, which we could
see dimly as we drove from Dimbar. The house is an
unpretending one, the exterior something like Claremont,
only not so handsome, and without any steps leading up
to the entrance. It has been added to at different times,
and was much improved and furnished by the Duke's
mother, who lived there. It is built on a slope ; conse-
quently on one side there is a story more than on the
other. The house is entered by a small hall, beyond
which is SL narrow corridor with windows on one side and
doors on the other. Turning to the left and going straight
on, we came to my sitting-room (the Duchess's own
sitting-room), with bow- windows down to the ground, and
very comfortably arranged. Next to it, but not opening
into it, was Beatrice's sitting-room, a very handsomely
furnished room in fact, the drawing-room. On the other
side of the hall is the dining-room very nice and well
furnished, but not large. Just opposite Beatrice's room
is the staircase, also not large, and below it you turn to
where Leopold had a room. The staircase lands on a
corridor like the lower one. My bedroom is just over
the sitting-room, with a nice little dressing-room to the
R 2
244
right next to it (the Duchess's room). Next to the bed-
room on the other side my two maids' rooms, then Janie
Ely's, and beyond Beatrice's, and the maids' at the end ;
just outside the corridor, Brown's. All most comfortable.
We came down almost directly again, and had (we three)
an excellent breakfast in the dining-room. Brown waited
on us with a footman, Cannon, who had gone on before.
Charlie Thomson, Lockwood, and Shorter (anew footman)
came with us.
As it was raining I did not go out, but soon afterwards
went upstairs. After dressing, came down and rested,
and read and wrote. Saw Lady Susan Suttie and her two
very pretty daughters, Harriet (Haddie), like Susan
Dalrymple, only much darker. Rested en the sofa, and
while there received the very startling and distressing
account of dear Madame Van de Weyer's death, which
affected me much. It came direct and was given me
straight, there being no telegraph in the house. At home
this would not have happened. Sent to tell Brown, who
was very much shocked.
She was not, of course, the friend her beloved and
honoured husband was ; but we saw so much of her with
him ever since 1840, and so much of them both when
they were at Abergeldie in 1867, 1868, and 1870. They
were always most kind to us and to our children, who
grew up with theirs ; and when my great sorrow came,
who was kinder and more ready to help than dear M.
Van de Weyer? Then, after his and his poor son
Albert's death, she talked so openly to me, and I tried to
comfort her. Dear pretty New Lodge? kept just as he
left it, was ever a pleasure for us to go to, as there was
still a sort of reflected light from former times, when he
charmed every one. To feel that for us it is gone for
* It is close to Windsor.
( 245 )
ever is dreadful, and upset me very much. Another
link with the past gone ! with my beloved one, with
dearest Uncle Leopold, and with Belgium \ I feel ever
more and more alone ! Poor Louise Van de Weyer,
who has been everything to her mother since Albert's
death, and Nellie, how I feel for them ! It was only on
the 1 6th that their sister Alice was married to the
youngest brother of poor Victoria's husband, Mr. Brand.
I had tea with Beatrice, and at a quarter past five, the
weather having cleared, drove out with her, the Duke of
Roxburghe, and Leopold ; Lady Ely, the Duke, General
Ponsonby, and Mr. Yorke in the second carriage, and
Lord Haddington on horseback in his uniform. We
drove to and through Dunbar, escorted by the East
Lothian Yeomanry. The town was beautifully decorated
and admirably kept. There were triumphal arches, and
many very kind inscriptions. We turned into the park
in front of the house, formerly occupied by the Lord
Lauderdale of that day, facing the old Castle of Dunbar
(of which very little remains) to which Queen Mary was
carried as a prisoner by Bothwell after the murder of
Darnley, and where lies the harbour a very small one.
Thence past the old watch-tower hill, called Knockenhair,
where some gipsies in fact, the "gipsy queen" from
Norwood had encamped ; and where we saw several
women, very dark and rather handsome and well dressed,
standing close to the wall.
On through the small villages of Belhaven and West
Barns by the paper mills, a large and rather handsome
building, turning from the high road to the west lodge of
Biel, Lady Mary Nisbet Hamilton's (dear Lady Augusta
Stanley's elder sister) and past the house (a dull-looking
stone one, but the park is fine), and by Belton, Mr. Baird
Hay's, to Broocburn. Home by seven. There was a
( 246 )
thick fog (or " haar," as they call it in Scotland} from the
sea, which obscured all the distance, with occasionally
some rain, but nothing to signify.
Only ourselves, the Duke and Duchess, and Janie
Ely to dinner, in the same dining-room. One of the
Duke's people attended, besides Brown and one of our
footmen. Went to my room soon after. Wrote a letter,
but went early to bed by twelve o'clock.
Sunday, August 25.
A fine hot morning. After breakfast, walked with
Beatrice down under the trees to the left, along a broad
walk next to the Broxburn, on to the end of the walk
which led to the garden wall, on which roses were grow-
ing, and which is quite on the sea, which was of a deep
blue. The rocks are very bad for boats. There is a
walk along the top of the rocks that overhang the sea
the Links. This road goes on to Dunbar, which, with its
fine church that stands so high as to be a landmark, is
well seen from here. We walked back again, and I sat
out near the house on the grass, under one of the small
canopies which we had brought with us, and signed papers
and wrote. At twelve there was service in the dining-
room, performed by Mr. Buchanan of Dunbar, who had
been for some little time tutor to Lord Charles Ker.
Beatrice, Janie Ely, the Duke and Duchess, General
Ponsonby, Mr. Yorke, and the Duke's upper servants
were present. It was very well performed. Afterwards
wrote and rested. Selected presents for the servants in
the house, and things from Dunbar for my people.
At a quarter-past five, after tea, drove out with Bea-
trice, the Duchess, and Janie Ely, in the landau and four.
The afternoon very bright and fine. We drove on
towards England, in the opposite direction from yester-
( 247 )
day's drive and parallel to the sea, though well inland.
The sea of a deep blue, but a haze so dense that the dis-
tance could hardly be seen. We drove past Barny Hill
(Sir William Miller's) to Dunglass (Sir Basil Hall's), a
most beautiful place with splendid trees, firs like those
near the Belvidere in Windsor Park, sycamores, beech,
oak, etc. The road passes above a deep ravine, at the
bottom of which flows a stream, and past the ruins of an
old abbey or castle. The house itself (at the door of
which we stopped for a few minutes to speak to Sir Basil
and Lady Hall) is a large, rather dreary-looking stone
house with columns. It must formerly have belonged to
the Home family. The distance was so hazy that, as we
drove there, we could with great difficulty faintly discern
St. Abb's Head*' and the point on the Wolfs Craig
mentioned in the "Bride of Lammermoor." Coming
back we took a long round inland, down steepish hills,
through the very picturesque villages of Brankeston and
Innerwick.
Home at half-past seven. Dinner as yesterday with
the Duke and Duchess of Roxburghe, with the addition
of Lord Haddington and General Ponsonby. Lord
Haddington's father (who was for a short time one of my
lords in waiting, but never took a waiting) was brother to
the late beautiful Marchioness of Breadalbane (wife of
my dear old Lord Breadalbane), to the present Dowager
Lady Aberdeen, to the late Lady Polwarth, and the pre-
sent Dowager Lady Ashburnham.
After dinner the other gentlemen were presented,
including Mr. Buchanan, who seems a very nice person.
Then went to my room, and Janie Ely stayed with me a
short while.
* Belonging to Mr. Home Dmmmond Moray of Blair Drum-
mond and Abercairny.
( 248 )
Monday ', August 26.
Again this dear and blessed anniversary returns, and
again without my beloved blessed One! But he is ever
with me in spirit.
When I came down to breakfast, I gave Beatrice a
mounted enamelled photograph of our dear Mausoleum,
and a silver belt of Montenegrin workmanship. After
breakfast I gave my faithful Brown an oxidised silver
biscuit-box, and some onyx studs. He was greatly pleased
with the former, and the tears came to his eyes, and he
said " It is too much." God knows, it is not, for one so
devoted and faithful. I gave my maids also trifles from
Dunbar; and to Janie Ely, the gentlemen, and the ser-
vants a trifle each, in remembrance of the dear day and
of the place.
Walked out at half-past ten with Beatrice and the
Duchess to the very fine kitchen-garden, and into the
splendid hothouse where they have magnificent grapes.
The peaches are also beautiful. From here we walked
again along the burnside to the sea, the Duchess's pretty
and very amiable collie (smaller than Noble, but with a
very handsome head), Rex, going with us. We looked
at the "Lord Warden" (Captain Freemantle), which
arrived yesterday from Spithead, where we saw her in the
Fleet. She had been guardship last year.
There is a pretty view from this walk to the sea over
a small lake, with trees, beyond which Dunbar is seen in
the distance. Then I sat out in the garden and wrote.
After that, when Beatrice returned from a walk near the
sea with the Duchess, I went to look at the gravestone of
Sir William Douglas, which is quite concealed amongst
the bushes near the lawn. The battle of Dunbar took
2 49 )
place (September 3, 1650) close to JBroxmouth, and Sir
Walter Scott says Cromwell's camp was in the park; but
this is doubtful, as it is described as on the north of the
Broxbiirn. Leslie's camp was on Doune Hill, conspicuous
for miles round. When the Scottish army left their
strong position on the hill, they came to the low ground
near the park wall. Cromwell is said to have stood on
the hillock where the tower in the grounds has been
built, and the battle must have been fought close to the
present park gate. I afterwards planted a deodara on
the lawn, in the presence of the Duke and Duchess.
Indoors near one o'clock. Directly after our usual
luncheon we saw Lady Susan Suttie with her two youngest
children Victoria, eleven years, and a boy of nine and
afterwards Lord and Lady Bowmont and their two fine
children the eldest, Margaret, three, and the youngest,
Victoria, nine months. The boy did not come.
At half-past three started with Beatrice, Leopold,
and the Duchess in the landau and four, the Duke, Lady
Ely, General Ponsonby, and Mr. Yorke going in the
second carriage, and Lord Haddington riding the whole
way. We drove through the west part of Dunbar, which
was very full, and where we were literally pelted with
small nosegays, till the carriage was full of them, by a
number of young ladies and girls; then on for some
distance past the village of Belhaven, Knochindale Hill,
where were stationed, in their best attire, the queen of
the gipsies, an oldish woman with a yellow handkerchief
on her head, and a youngish, very dark, and truly gipsy-
like woman in velvet and a red shawl, and another
woman. The queen is a thorough gipsy, with a scarlet
cloak and yellow handkerchief round her head. Men in
red hunting-coats, all very dark, and all standing on a
platform here, bowed and waved their handkerchiefs.
( 2 5 )
It was the English queen of the gipsies from Norwood,
and not the Scottish border one.
We next passed the paper mills, where there were
many people, as indeed there were at every little village
and in every direction. We turned to the right, leaving the
Traprain Law, a prominent hill, to the left, crossed the
Tyne, and entered the really beautiful park of Tyningham
Lord Haddington's. More splendid trees and avenues
of beech and sycamore, and one very high holly hedge.
The drive under the avenues is very fine, and at the end
of them you see the sea (we could, however, see it but
faintly because of the haze). We passed close to the
house, a handsome one, half Elizabethan, with small
Scotch towers, and a very pretty terrace garden, but did
not get out. Driving on through the park, which
reminded me of Windsor and Windsor Forest, we again
came upon the high road and passed by Whitekirk, a
very fine old church, where numbers of people were
assembled, and very soon after we saw through the haze
the high hill of North Berwick Law, looking as though
it rose up out of the sea, and another turn or two brought
us to Tantallon, which is close to and overhangs the sea.
We drove along the grass to the old ruins, which are
very extensive. Sir Hew Dalrymple, to whom it belongs,
received us, and took us over the old remains of the
moat, including the old gateway, on which the royal
standard had been hoisted. Lady Dalrymple (a Miss
Arkwright) received us. No one else was there but Sir
David Baird, who had joined us on the way on horseback.
Sir Hew Dalrymple showed me about the ruins of this
very ancient castle, the stronghold of the Douglases.
It belonged once to the Earl of Angus, second husband
to Queen Margaret (wife of James IV.), and was finally
taken by the Covenanters.
( 251 )
It was unfortunately so hazy that we could not dis-
tinguish the Bass Rock, though usually it is quite distinctly
seen, being so near; and all the fine surrounding coast
was quite invisible. There was a telescope, but we could
see nothing through it; it was, besides, placed too low.
Seated on sofas near the ledge of the rock, we had some
tea, and the scene was extremely wild. After this we left,
being a good deal hurried to get back (as it was already
past six), and returned partly the same way, by Binning
Wood, also belonging to Lord Haddington (which reminds
one of Windsor forest], but which we could not drive
through, through Tyningham village to Belloivford, where
the cross-road turned off. This brought us sooner back,
and we reached Broxmotith by twenty-five minutes to
eight, Lord Haddingdon riding the whole way.
We dined at half-past eight, only the Duke and
Duchess of Roxburghe with ourselves. At ten or eleven
o'clock we left Broxmouth with regret, as we had spent a
most pleasant time there. We went in the same carriage
(a landau) the Duchess of Roxburghe with us, and were
driven by the same horses which had been out each day,
including this day's long drive, the postilion Thomson
riding admirably. Dunbar was very prettily illuminated,
and the paper mills also. We took leave of the kind
Duke* and Duchess with real regret, having enjoyed our
visit greatly. All had gone off so well.
* Ke died April 23, 1879.
( 252 )
DEATH OF SIR THOMAS BIDDULPH, AT ABER-
GELDIE MAINS, SEPTEMBER 28, 1878.
Wednesday, September 2$, 1878.
At twenty minutes to five drove in the waggonette
with the Duchess of Roxburghe and Harriet Phipps to
the Glen Gelder Shtel, and had tea there; and then drove
to Abergeldie Mains, where Sir Thomas Biddulph had
been very ill for a week. We got out, and I went upstairs
and saw Mary (Lady) Biddulph. Sir William Jenner
came into the drawing-room, and said Sir Thomas would
like to see me. I went to his room with Sir William,
and found Sir Thomas in bed, much the same as when
I saw him on Saturday, looking very ill, but able to speak
quite loud. He said " I am very bad! " I stood looking
at him, and took his hand, and he said, "You are very
kind to me," and I answered, pressing his hand, " You
have always been very kind to me" I said I would
come again, and left the room.
Saturday, September 28, 1878. ,
At eleven o'clock started off with Beatrice for Aber-
geldie Mains to inquire after Sir Thomas. I went up-
stairs, and Blake, the former nurse, came in much dis-
tressed, saying how ill he was. Then she asked if I would
like to look at him, which I did from the door. We
( 253 )
(Beatrice and I) were both much upset. We left, in-
tending to return in the afternoon, and got back to
Balmoral by a quarter to twelve. Sat writing in the
garden-cottage. While I was writing, at a quarter to one
Brown came round with a note in his hand, crying, and
said " It's all over ! " It was from Sir William, saying that
dear "Sir Thomas passed away at twenty minutes past
twelve. Lady Biddulph as well as the children were with
him to the last." We were so distressed that we had not
remained at the house, and Brown so vexed and so kind
and feeling. Dreadful ! Such a loss ! Dear Sir Thomas
was such an excellent, honest, upright, wonderfully un-
selfish and disinterested man so devoted to me and
mine. Under a somewhat undemonstrative exterior, he
was the kindest and most tender-hearted of men. How
terrible is this loss for his poor, poor wife and the
children who adored him !
Thursday, October 3, 1878.
A most lovely, almost summer day, and very warm.
At a quarter-past ten drove with Beatrice, the Duchess
of Roxburghe, and Lady Ely (Harriet Phipps, Fraulein
Bauer, and the gentlemen having gone on before), to
Abergeldie Mains. We got out and went into the dining-
room, where the coffin was placed. Poor Mary Biddulph
and her two children received us there. Her brother,
Captain Conway Seymour, and the female servants, our-
selves, and the ladies were present. No men came into
the room ; they remained in the hall, the door being left
open. Mr. Campbell came in a few minutes afterwards,
and performed a short but very impressive service, just
reading a few verses from Scripture, and offering up a
beautiful prayer. The coffin left the house directly after,
followed by Captain Conway Seymour. Bertie and his
254
three gentlemen, Lord Bridport, General Ponsonby, Sir
William Jenner, and Dr. Profeit* followed in carriages
to Ballater, as also did Lord Macduff and Colonel Far-
quharson.
We sat a little with poor Mary, and then left. Lady
Biddulph and her children went in the same train with
the honoured remains of her dear husband to Windsor,
* My Commissioner since November 1875 ; an excellent man,
universally beloved.
255
MEMORIAL CROSS TO THE PRINCESS ALICE,
GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE.
Balmoral, May 22, 1879.
We arrived at Balmoral at a quarter-past three. At
a quarter to six walked with Beatrice to look at the Cross
which I have now put up to my darling Alice. It is in
Aberdeenshire granite, twelve feet three inches high. It
is beautiful. The inscription is :
TO THE DEAR MEMORY
OF
ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE,
Princess of Great Britain and Ireland,
BORN APRIL 25, 1843, DIED DEC. 14, 1878,
THIS IS ERECTED
BY HER SORROWING MOTHER
QUEEN VICTORIA.
" Her name shall live, though now she is no more."
We then walked on to Donald Stewart's, where we
went in ; thence down to Grant's. In both places they
were quite overcome to see us after darling Alice's loss,
and poor Grant began sobbing and could not come into
the room where we were.* The arrival at Balmoral
to-day was most sad. Everything came before me the
dreadful anxiety about little Ernie,f the sorrow about
dear little May, J and the anxiety about the others. And,
to crown all, the thought of darling Alice gone, and, after
her, dear little Waldie.
* Grant died November 17, 1878, in his 7oth year, at Robrec,
close to Balmoral, where he had lived since 1875, when he was
pensioned, and where we went very often to see him. I visited him
almost daily during the last days of his life, and was present at the
funeral service at his house (November 2l). He is buried in the
churchyard at Braemar.
f Alice's son, who, with four of his sisters and his father, was
lying ill of diphtheria in November.
\ Dear Alice's youngest child, who died of diphtheria November
1 6, 1878. We received the news while we were at Balmoral.
Prince Waldemar, the Crown Princess of Germany's third
and youngest son, who died of diphtheria on March 27 of this year.
257
DEATH OF THE PRINCE IMPERIAL.
JUNE 1879.
Balmoral Castle, Tfnirsday,June 19, 1879.
At twenty minutes to eleven Brown knocked and
came in, and said there was bad news ; and when I, in
alarm, asked what, he replied, "The young French
Prince is killed ; " and when I could not take it in, and
asked several times what it meant, Beatrice, who then
came in with the telegram in her hand, said, "Oh! the
Prince Imperial is killed! " I feel a sort of thrill of horror
now while I write the words.
I put my hands to my head and cried out, " No, no!
it cannot, cannot be true! It can't be! " And then dear
Beatrice, who was crying very much, as I did too, gave
me the annexed telegram from Lady Frere :
Government House, Cape Town, June 19, 1879.
To General Sir Henry P on son by, Balmoral Castle. For
the Information of Her Majesty the Oitecn.^
The melancholy tidings have been telegraphed from
Natal, that the Prince Imperial, when out on a reconnais-
sance from Colonel Wood's camp on the ist of June, was
killed by a number of Zulus concealed in a field in which
the Prince Imperial and his party had dismounted to rest
and feed their horses. No official particulars yet received
s
by me. The Prince Imperial's body found and buried with
full military honours at Camp Itelezi, and after being
embalmed will be conveyed to England. This precedes the
press telegrams by one hour. I have sent to Lord Sydney
to beg him, if possible, to break the sad intelligence to the
Empress before the press telegrams arrive.
To die in such an awful, horrible way ! Poor, poor
dear Empress ! her only, only child her all gone ! And
such a real misfortune ! I was quite beside myself ; and
both of us have hardly had another thought since.
We sent for Janie Ely, who was in the house when he
was born, and was so devoted to him ; and he was so
good ! Oh ! it is too, too awful ! The more one thinks
of it, the worse it is ! I was in the greatest distress.
Brown so distressed ; every one quite stunned. Got^to
bed very late ; it was dawning ! and little sleep did
I get.
Friday, June 20.
Had a bad, restless night, haunted by this awful event,
seeing those horrid Zulus constantly before me, and
thinking of the poor Empress, who did not yet know it.
Was up in good time.
My accession day, forty-two years ago; but no thought
of it in presence of this frightful event.
Had written many telegrams last night. One came
from Lord Sydney, saying he was going down early this
morning to break this dreadful news to the poor afflicted
mother. How dreadful ! Received distressed and horri-
fied telegrams from some of my children. Heard by tele-
gram also from Sir Stafford Northcote that the news
arrived in the House of Commons ; that much sympathy
had been shown. It came to Colonel Stanley. Tele-
graphed to many.
( 259 )
Packed my boxes with Brown. Was so horrified.
Always, at Balmoral in May or June, dreadful news, or
news of deaths of Royal persons, come, obliging the State
parties to be put off.
At twenty minutes past eleven drove to Donald
Stewart's and got out to say " Good-bye," as well as to
the Profeits, and stopped at the door of the shop to wish
Mrs. Symon good-bye, and also at Brown's house, to take
leave of the Hugh Browns. Home at twenty minutes
past twelve. Writing.
Received a telegram from Lord Sydney, saying that
he had informed the poor dear Empress of these dreadful
news. She could not believe it for some time, and was
afterwards quite overwhelmed.
How dreadful ! Took luncheon with Beatrice in my
darling Albert's room. Beatrice was much upset, as in-
deed we all were. Even those who did not know them
felt the deepest sympathy, and were in a state of conster-
nation. He was so good and so much beloved. So strange
that, as last time, our departure should be saddened, as,
indeed, it has been every year, at least for three or four
years, by the occurrence of deaths of great people or of
relations.
We left Balmoral at half-past one, Janie Ely and
Leila Erroll (full of feeling) going with Beatrice and me.
It was a pity to leave when everything was in its greatest
beauty. The lilacs just preparing to burst. Near Ballater
there was a bush of white lilac already out. The dust
dreadful. Very little whin, and far less of that beautiful
broom, out, which was always such a pretty sight from
the railway at this time of the year. We reached Aberdeen
at twenty-eight minutes to four, and soon after had our
tea.
At the Bridge of Dun we got newspapers with some
S 2
( 260 )
of the sad details. Thence we turned off and passed
again close to the sea by Arbroath, East Haven, Carnoustie
(where poor Symon went and got so ill he had to be taken
back), all lying low, with golf links near each, and the line
passing over long grass strips with mounds and small in-
dentations of the sea, such as are seen near sands, where
there are no rocks and the coast is flat ; but the ground
rises as you approach Dundee.
We reached the Tay Bridge station at six. Immense
crowds everywhere, flags waving in every direction, and
the whole population out ; but one's heart was too sad
for anything. The Provost, splendidly attired, presented
an address. Ladies presented beautiful bouquets to
Beatrice and me. The last time I was at Dundee was in
September 1844, just after Affie's birth, when we landed
there on our way to Blair, and Vicky, then not four years
old, the only child with us, was carried through the crowd
by old Renwick.* We embarked there also on our way
back.
We stopped here about five minutes, and then began
going over the marvellous Tay Bridge, which is rather
more than a mile and a half long.f It was begun in
1871. There were great difficulties in laying the founda-
tion, and some lives were lost. It was finished in 1878.
Mr. Bouch, who was presented at Dundee, was the
engineer. It took us, I should say, about eight minutes
going over. The view was very fine.
The boys of the training-ship, with their band, looked
very well. The line through the beautifully wooded
county of Fife was extremely pretty, especially after
* Sergeant footman at the time, who died in 1871.
f The Tay Bridge was destroyed in the same year (1879) in the
gale of the night of December 29, when a whole train with upwards
of eighty passengers was precipitated into the Tay.
Lady bank Junction, where we stopped for a few minutes,
and where Mr. Balfour of Balbirnie brought a basket of
flowers. We met him and his wife, Lady Georgiana, in
Scotland m 1842. We passed near Loch Leven, with the
ruined castle in which poor Queen Mary was confined
(which we passed in 1842), stopping there a moment and
in view of the " Lomonds," past Dollar and Tillicoultry,
the situation of which, in a wooded green valley at the
foot of the hills, is quite beautiful, and reminded me of
Italy and Switzerland, through Sauchie, Alloa, all manu-
facturing towns, and then close under Wallace's Monument.
We reached the Stirling Station, which was dreadfully
crowded, at eighteen minutes past eight (the people
everywhere very enthusiastic), and after leaving it we had
some good cold dinner, which reminded me much of
our refreshments in the train during our charming Italian
journey.
We got Scotch papers as we went along, giving harrow-
ing details (all by telegraph) from the front, or rather from
Natal to Cafe Town, then by ship to Madeira, and thence
again by telegraph here. Of nothing else could we think.
Janie Ely got in at Beattock Summit, and went with us
as far as Carlisle. She showed us a Dundee paper, called
the "Evening Telegraph," which contained the fullest
and most dreadful accounts. Monstrous ! To think of
that dear young man, the apple of his mother's eye, born
and nurtured in the purple, dying thus, is too fearful, too
awful ; and inexplicable and dreadful that the others
should not have turned round and fought for him. It is
too horrible !
( 262 )
HOME-COMING OF THEIR ROYAL HIGHNESSES
THE DUKE AND DUCHESS OF CONNAUGHT.
SEPTEMBER 1879.
Balmoral Castle, Friday, September 5, 1879.
At two I started off with Beatrice and Janie Ely (Sir
Henry Ponsonby and General Gardiner having gone on
to Ballater) in the landau and four, the postilions in blue,
outriders in red, Brown in full dress, and Power behind
our carriage. We arrived at four minutes to three, and
waited in the carriage till we heard the train (special) was
approaching, when we got out. In two or three minutes
more they were there, and dear Arthur and Louise Margaret
stepped out, and were warmly embraced by us. I gave
her a nosegay of heather. She had also received others.
The guard (Royal Scots) were out.
When we reached the Balmoral bridge, we went at a
slow pace, passing under the arch composed of moss and
heather, on which was wrought, in flowers, " Welcome to
Balmoral" on one side, and "Ceud mille Failte" on the
other, "A. W. " and "L. M. " on the outside of each ;
and there all the people stood all our kilted people.
The ladies and gentlemen, including Lord Chelmsford
and Mr. Cross, Christian Victor, and Albert (Helena's
boys), and also the Misses Pitt, were there.
Arthur spoke a few words from the carriage, and then
Dr. Profeit said a few words ; after which, preceded by
the pipers playing, and all our kilted men and the rest
following, we went at a very slow foot's pace to the Castle.
At the gate three pretty little girls of Colonel Clarke's
(Bertie's equerry staying at Birkkatf) threw nosegays into
the carriage, one being of marguerites. Every one who
was there followed on foot.
Only Captain Fitzgerald came with Arthur and Louise
Margaret.
When we got out, everybody having come up, Dr.
Profeit proposed Arthur's and Louischen's health, which
everyone drank with cheers. Arthur thanked. Then we
went in, and Arthur, Louischen, and the two boys took
tea with us in the library.
264
His ROYAL HIGHNESS THE DUKE OF
CON NAUGHT'S CAIRN.
Man Jay, September 8, 1879.
A fine morning. Breakfasted with Beatrice, Arthur,
and Louischen in the garden cottage, and at eleven we
started for Arthur's Cairn, I on my pony "Jessie," Beatrice
walking to the top. We were met by Arthur and Louis-
chen, and went on to near the cairn, to the right of
Campbell's path. I got off when we were near it ; and
here were assembled all the ladies and gentlemen, also
Dr. Profeit, the keepers and servants belonging to the
place with their families, and almost all our servants from
the house. When we had got to the top and had our
glasses filled, and were standing close to the cairn, Dr.
Profeit, with a few appropriate words complimentary to
Arthur, and with many good wishes for both, proposed
their health, which was drunk with three times three.
Then Arthur, with great readiness, returned thanks in a
little speech. My health followed, also with loud cheer-
ing ; and then Brown said they ought to drink the health
of Princess Beatrice, which Cowley took up and proposed ;
and it was received with many cheers. Fern (who with
the other dogs was there) resented the cheering, and
barked very much. We all placed a stone on the cairn,
on which was inscribed
ARTHUR DUKE OF CONNAUGHT AND STRATIIEARNE,
Married to Princess Louise Margaret of Prussia,
March 13, 1879.
After a few minutes we left, I walking down the whole
way. We stopped at Dr. Profeit's on our way down, and
here I got on my pony again.
( 266
VISIT TO THE GLEN GELDER SIIIEL.
Balmoral, October 6, 1879.
At ten minutes past four drove with the Empress
Eugenie * (who had driven up from Abergeldie)' in the
victoria to the Glen Gelder Shiel, or Ruidh na Bhan Righ
(the Queen's Shiel). The evening was perfectly beautiful,
warm, and clear, and bright. The Empress was pleased
with the little Shiel, which contains only two small rooms
and a little kitchen. It stands in a very wild solitary spot
looking up to Lochnagar, which towers up immediately
above the house, though to reach Lochnagar itself would
take a very long time. We walked on along the footpath
above the Gelder for a mile and a half, the dogs, which
had come up, following us, and the Empress talked a
great deal, and most pleasantly, about former times.
When we came back to the little Shiel, after walking
for an hour, we had tea. Brown had caught some excel-
lent trout and cooked them with oatmeal, which the dear
Empress liked extremely, and said would be her dinner.
It was a glorious evening the hills pink, and the sky so
clear.
We got back at twenty minutes past six, and the
Empress drove back to Abergeldie with her lady.
* The Empress was staying at Abergeldie, to which I had urged
her to come for a little quiet and change of air after her terrible
misfortune.
267
VICTORY OF TEL-EL-KEBIR AND HOME-COMING
OF THEIR ROYAL HIGHNESSES THE DUKE
AND DUCHESS OF ALBANY. SEPTEMBER
1882.
Monday, September 11, 1882.
Received a telegram in cipher from Sir John Mc-
Neill, marked very secret, saying that it was " determined
to attack the enemy with a very large force on Wednes-
day." How anxious this made us, God only knows;
and yet this long delay had also made us very anxious.
No one to know, though all expected something at the
time.
Tuesday, September 12.
Drove at ten minutes to five, with Beatrice, Louischen,
and Harriet, to the Glen Gelder Skid, where we had tea,
and I sketched. The sky was so beautiful. We walked
on the road back, and came home at twenty minutes
past seven. How anxious we felt, I need not say; but
we tried not to give way. Only the ladies dined with us.
I prayed earnestly for my darling child, and longed
for the morrow to arrive. Read Korner's beautiful
" Gebet vor der Schlacht," " Vater, ich rufe Dich " (Prayer
before the Battle, " Father, I call on Thee ") My beloved
husband used to sing it often. My thoughts were entirely
( 268 )
fixed on Egypt and the coming battle. My nerves were
strained to such a pitch by the intensity of my anxiety
and suspense that they seemed to feel as though they
were all alive.
Wednesday, September 13.
Woke very often. Raw and dull. Took my short
walk, and breakfasted in the cottage. Had a telegram
that the army marched out last night. What an anxious
moment! We walked afterwards as far as the arch for
Leopold's reception, which was a very pretty one, and
placed as nearly where it had been on previous occasions,
only rather nearer Middleton's lodge, and thence back
to the cottage, where I sat and wrote and signed, etc.
Another telegram, also from Reuter, saying that
fighting was going on, and that the enemy had been
routed with heavy loss at Tel-el-Kebir. Much agitated.
On coming in got a telegram from Sir John McNeil!,
saying, "A great victory; Duke safe and well." Sent all
to Louischen. The excitement very great. Felt un-
bounded joy and gratitude for God's great goodness and
mercy.
The same news came from Lord Granville and Mr.
Childers, though not yet from Sir Garnet Wolseley. A
little later, just before two, came the following most
welcome and gratifying telegram from Sir Garnet
Wolseley:
Ismalia, September 13, 1882.
Td-el-Kebir. From Wolseley to the Queen, Balmoral,
Attacked Arabi's position at five this morning. His
strongly entrenched position was most bravely and gallantly
stormed by the Guards and line, while cavalry and horse
artillery worked round their left flank. At seven o'clock I
was in complete possession of his whole camp. Many rail-
( 269 )
way trucks, with quantities of supplies, fallen into our hands.
Enemy completely routed, and his loss has been very heavy ;
also regret to say we have suffered severely. Duke of
Connaught is well, and behaved admirably, leading his
brigade to the attack.
Brown brought the telegram, and followed me to
Beatrice's room, where Louischen was, and I showed it
to her. I was myself quite upset, and embraced her
warmly, saying what joy and pride and cause of thank-
fulness it was to know our darling safe, and so much
praised ! I feel quite beside myself for joy and gratitude,
though grieved to think of our losses, which, however,
have not proved to be so serious as first reported.
We were both much overcome.
We went to luncheon soon after this, having sent
many telegrams, and receiving many. At ten minutes
past three drove with Beatrice and Lady Southampton
to Ballater. We got out of the carriage, and the train
arrived almost immediately, and Leopold and Helen
stepped out; she was dressed in grey with bonnet to
match.
The guard of honour, Seaforth Highlanders (Duke of
Albany's), out, and many people. Leopold and Helen
got at once into the landau with us two, and we drove
straight to Balmoral. At the bridge Louischen and
Horatia* were waiting in a carriage, and followed us.
Beyond the bridge, and when we had just passed under
the arch, the carriage stopped, and Dr. Profeit said a
few words of welcome, for which Leopold thanked.
Here everybody was assembled all our gentlemen and
ladies, and those from Birkhall and the Mains, and all
the tenants from the three estates, all our servants, etc.
The pipes preceded, playing the " Highland Laddie,"
* The Hon. lloralia Stopford.
( 270 )
Brown and all our other kilted men walking alongside,
and before and behind the carriage everybody else close
following and a goodly number they were. We got out
at the door, and went just beyond the arch, all our people
standing in a line headed by our Highlanders. A table
with whisky and glasses was placed up against the house,
next to which stood all the ladies and gentlemen. Dr.
Profeit gave Leopold's and Helen's healths, and after
these had been drunk, Brown stepped forward and said,
nearly as follows: "Ladies and gentlemen, let us join in
a good Highland cheer for the Duke and Duchess of
Albany; may they live long and die happy!" which
pleased every one, and there were hearty cheers.
Then I asked Leopold to propose " The Victorious
Army in Egypt" with darling Arthur's health, which was
heartily responded to, and poor Louischen was quite upset.
After this Dr. Profeit proposed " The Duchess of Con-
naught," and at Brown's suggestion he also proposed
"The little Princess." The sweet little one had wit-
nessed the procession in Chapman's (her nurse's) arms
with her other attendants, and was only a little way off
when her health was drunk.
This over, we went in and had tea upstairs in my
room Louischen, Beatrice, and I. Louischen had re-
ceived a very long and most interesting letter from Arthur
about that dreadful march on the 25th (dated 26th, but
finished later). A telegram from Sir Garnet Wolseley to
Mr. Childers, with fuller accounts, arrived. The loss,
thank God! is not so heavy as we feared at first. A
bonfire was to be lit by my desire on the top of Craig
Gowan at nine, just where there had been one in 1856
after the fall of Sevastopol, when dearest Albert went up
to it at night with Bertie and Affie. That was on Sep-
tember 10, very nearly the same time twenty-six years ago !
( 271 )
Went to Louischen, who read me portions of Arthur's
long letter. The description of his and the officers'
sufferings and privations, as well as those of the poor men,
made me miserable.
Only ourselves to dinner; and at nine Beatrice,
Louischen, Lady Southampton, and the gentlemen, and
many of our people, walked up (with the pipes playing)
to the top of Craig Gowan rather venturesome in the
dark; and we three (Leopold, Helen, and I) went up to
Beatrice's room, and from there we saw the bonfire lit
and blazing, and could distinguish figures, and hear the
cheering and pipes. They were soon back, and I went
and sat with Beatrice, Louischen, and Lady Southampton,
who were having a little supper in Louischen's room.
Endless telegrams ! What a day of gratitude and joy,
but mingled with sorrow and anxiety for the many
mourners and the wounded and dving!
( 272 )
CONCLUSION.
A few words I must add in conclusion to this volume.
The faithful attendant who is so often mentioned
throughout these Leaves, is no longer with her whom he
served so truly, devotedly, untiringly.
In the fulness of health and strength he was snatched
away from his career of usefulness, after an illness of
only three days, on the 2yth of March of this year,
respected and beloved by all who recognised his rare
worth and kindness of heart, and truly regretted by all'
who knew him.
His loss to me (ill and helpless as I was at the time
from an accident) is irreparable, for he deservedly pos-
sessed my entire confidence; and to say that he is daily,
nay, hourly, missed by me, whose lifelong gratitude he
won by his constant care, attention, and devotion, is but
a feeble expression of the truth.
A truer, nobler, trustier heart,
More loyal, and more loving, never beat
\Vithin a human breast.
UALMOKAL : November 1883.
& Co., I'tiiiter;', New-street Square, London,
PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE
CARDS OR SLIPS FROM THIS POCKET
UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY
DA Victoria, Queen of Great
552 Britain
146? More leaves from the ^
1885 journal of a life in the
Highlands New ed.
