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FROM 1862 TO 1882. 




[All rights reserved.] 


THE little volume "Our Life in the Highlands," 
published fifteen years ago, with its simple records 
of the never-to-be-forgotten days spent with him 
" who made the writer's life bright and happy," was 
received with a warmth of sympathy and interest 
which was very gratifying to her heart. The kind 
editor of that volume is no longer here to advise 
and help her, though friendly assistance has not 
been wanting on the present occasion. But remem- 
bering the feeling with which that little book 
was received, the writer thinks that the present 
volume may equally evoke sympathy, as, while 
describing a very altered life, it shows how her 
sad and suffering heart was soothed and cheered 
by the excursions and incidents it recounts, as 
well as by the simple mountaineers, from whom 
she learnt many a lesson of resignation and faith, 

in the pure air and quiet of the beautiful High- 

The writer wishes at the same time to express 
her gratitude to those who are mentioned through- 
out this volume for the devotion and kindness 
which contributed so much to her enjoyment of 
the varied scenes and objects of interest of which 
these pages contain the unpretending record. 


December 22, 1883. 












Building of the Prince's Cairn 21 Aug. 1862 I 

Visit to the Old Cairn on the Prince's Birth- 

: day 26 Aug. 1862 3 

First Visit to the Prince's Cairn after its 

Completion 19 May 1863 4 

Visit to Blair 15 Sept. 1863 5 

Carriage Accident 7 Oct. 1863 8 

Unveiling of the Prince's Statue at Aber- 

: deen 13 Oct. 1863 12 

Expedition to Invermark 19 Sept. 1865 19 

First Visit to Dunkeld 9 Oct. 1865 23 

Second Visit to Dunkeld I Oct. 1866 33 

Opening of the Aberdeen Waterworks 16 Oct. 1866 46 

Halloween 31 Oct. 1866-7... 48 

Visit to Floors and the Scotch Border Country 20 Aug. 1867 50 

Visit to Glenfiddich 24 Sept. 1867 61 

Unveiling of the Prince's Statue at Balmoral 15 Oct. 1867 70 

A House-warming at the Glassalt Shiel I Oct. 1868 72 

"Juicing the Sheep" 21 Oct. 1868 75 

A Highland " Kirstnin" (Christening) 24 Oct. 1868 77 

A Second Christening I Nov. 1868 79 

Widow Grant 22 Aug. 1869 So 

Visit to Invertrossachs I Sept. 1869 81 

Sheep Clipping 13 June 1870 103 

Betrothal of Princess Louise to the Marquis 

of Lome 3 Oct. 1870.... 

Communion Sunday at Crathie 13 Nov. 1871.... 

The "Spate" n June 1872.... 

Visit to Holyrood and Edinburgh 13 Aug. 1872.... 

Visit to Dunrobin 6 Sept. 1872.... 

Dr. Norman Macleod March 1873.... 

Visit to Inverlochy 9 Sept. 1873.... 

Home-coming of their Royal Highnesses the 

Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh 29 Aug. 1874..., 

Departure of the Prince of Wales from 

Abergeldie before leaving for India ...... 17 Sept. 1875.... 

Visit to Inveraray 21 Sept. 1875.... 

Highland Funeral 21 Oct. 1875.... 

Unveiling of the Statue of the Prince Con- 
sort at Edinburgh 17 Aug. 1876.... 

Presentation of Colours to " The Royal 

Scots" 26 Sept. 1876.... 

Expedition to Loch Maree 12 Sept. 1877..., 

Visit to Broxmouth 23 Aug. 1878..., 

Death of Sir Thomas Biddulph at Abergeldie 

Mains 28 Sept. 1878..., 

Memorial Cross to the Princess Alice, Grand 
Duchess of Hesse 22 May 1879.... 

Death of the Prince Imperial 19 June 1879.... 

Home-coming of their Royal Highnesses the 

Duke and Duchess of Connaught 5 Sept. 1879..., 

His Royal Highness the Duke of Con- 
naught's Cairn 8 Sept. 1879..., 

Visit to the Glen Gelder Shiel 6 Oct. 1879..., 

Victory of Tel-el-Kebir and Home-coming 
of their Royal Highnesses the Duke and 
Duchess of Albany II Sept. 1882.... 



Portrait of Her Majesty the Queen To face Title 

Mr. John Grant page 3 

,, II. R.H. the Princess Helena 19 

,, Mr. John Brown 24 

,, H. R.H. the Princess Louise 33 

,, General Grey 47 

,, Lady Churchill 61 

Sharp, the Queen's Collie 67 

View of the Glassalt Shiel 72 

Portrait of H.R.H. the Princess Beatrice 113 

Noble, the Queen's Collie 163 

Memorial Cross to H.R.H. the Princess Alice 255 

View of Glen Gekler Shiel .. .. 266 

CALEDONIA ! thou land of the mountain and rock, 
Of the ocean, the mist, and the wind 

Thou land of the torrent, the pine, and the oak, 
Of the roebuck, the hart, and the hind ! 

Thou land of the valley, the moor, and the hill, 
Of the storm and the proud-rolling wave 

Yes, thou art the land of fair liberty still 
And the land of my forefathers' grave ! 


A nation famed for song and beauty's charms, 
Zealous yet modest, innocent though free ; 
Patient of toil, serene amidst alarms, 
Inflexible in faith, invincible in arms. 

BEATTIE'S Minstrel, 


Balmoral, Thursday, August 21, 1862. 
AT eleven o'clock started off in the little pony- chair 
(drawn by the Corriemulzie pony, and led by Brown), 
Bertie, who had come over from Birkhall, on foot, the 
two girls on ponies, and the two little boys, who joined 
us later, for Craig Lowrigan; and I actually drove in the 
little carriage to the very top, turning off from the path 
and following the track where the carts had gone. Grant 
and Duncan pushed the carriage behind. Sweet Baby 
(Beatrice) we found at the top. The view was so fine, 
the day so bright, and the heather so beautifully pink 
but no pleasure, no joy ! all dead ! 

And here at the top is the foundation of the cairn 
forty feet wide to be erected to my precious Albert, 
which will be seen all down the valley. I and my poor 
six orphans all placed stones on it ; and our initials, as 
well as those of the three absent ones, are to be carved 
on stones all round it. I felt very shaky and nervous. 

It is to be thirty-five feet high, and the following 
inscription to be placed on it: 





AUGUST 21, l862. 

' ' He being made perfect in a short time fulfilled a long time ; 
For his soul pleased the Lord, 
Therefore hastened He to take him 
Away from among the wicked." 

Wisdom of Solomon, iv. 13, 14. 

Walked down to where the rough road is, and this 
first short attempt at walking in the heather shook me 
and tired me much. 

( 3 ) 


Balmoral, August 26, 1862. 

I went out at twelve with the two girls on ponies (I 
in the little carriage), Bertie on foot. We went to see 
ic obelisk building to His dear memory: Bertie left us 
lere, and we went on round by the village, up Craig- 
rowan, in the little carriage, over the heather till we 
ached near to the old cairn of 1852. Grant said: "I 
lought you would like to be here to-day, on His birth- 
ly!" so entirely was he of opinion that this beloved 
, and even the i4th of December, must not be looked 
apon as a day of mourning. " That's not the light to 
:>k at it." There is so much true and strong faith in. 
lese good, simple people. 

Walked down by the Fog* Jfvuse, all pink with heather; 
le day beautifully fine and bright. 

* Scotch for " Moss." 

Ji 2 

( 4 ) 


Balmoral, Tuesday, May 19, 1863. 
I went out in the little carriage (Donald Stewart 
leading the pony, as John Brown was unwell) with 
Lenchen and Dr. Robertson (Grant following), and drove 
up to the cairn on the top of Craig Lowrigan, which is a 
fine sharp pyramid admirably constructed out of granite 
without any mortar. The inscription is very well en- 
graved and placed. There is a good path made up to 
the top of the hill 

( 5 ) 


Balmoral^ Tuesday, September 15, 1863. 
At twenty minutes to eight we reached Perth, where 
we breakfasted and dressed, and at twenty minutes past 
ic I left with Lenchen, Augusta Bruce, and General 
Jrey, for Blair, going past Dunkeld, where we had not 
)een since 1844, and which is so beautifully situated, 
id Pitlochry, through the splendid Pass of Killiecrankie 
(which we so often drove through in 1844), past Mr. 
Gutter's place Faskally, on to Blair, having a distant 
at the entiance to Glen Tilt, and Schiehallion, 
which it made and makes me sick to think of. At the 
small station were a few people the poor Duke's High- 
landers (keepers), the dear Duchess, Lord Tullibardine, 
and Captain Drummond of Mtgginch. 

The Duchess was much affected, still more so when 
she got into the carriage with me. Lenchen and the 
others went in the boat carriage, the one we had gone in 
not two years ago ! 

We drove at once to the house which we had visited 
in such joyful and high spirits October 9, two years ago. 
The Duchess took me to the same room which I had 
been in on that day, and, after talking a little to me of this 
dreadful affliction,* she went to see if the Duke was ready. 

* The Duke was suffering from an incurable illness. 

( 6 ) 

She soon returned, and I followed her downstairs along. 
the passage, full of stags' horns, which we walked along, 
together with the poor Duke, in 1861. When I went in, 
I found him standing up very much altered ; it was very 
sad. He kissed my hand, gave me the white rose which, 
according to tradition, is presented by the Lords of 
Athole on the occasion of the Sovereign's visit, and we 
sat a little while with him. It is a small room, full of his 
rifles and other implements and attributes of sport 
now for ever useless to him ! A sad, sad contrast. He 
seemed very much pleased and gratified. 

We went upstairs again and took some breakfast, in 
the very same room where we breakfasted on that very- 
happy, never-to-be-forgotten day, full of joy and expecta- 
tion. While we were breakfasting the door opened, and 
in walked the Duke in a thick MacDougal. Mrs. Drum- 
mond and Miss MoncreifFe (the Duchess's pretty, amiable 
future daughter-in-law) were there, and also Miss Mac- 
Gregor, but we did not see her. The poor Duke insisted 
on going with me to the station, and he went in the 
carriage with the Duchess and me. At the station he- 
got out, walked about, and gave directions. I embraced 
the dear Duchess and gave the Duke my hand, saying,. 
" Dear Duke, God bless you ! " He had asked permission 
that his men, the same who had gone with us through 
the glen on that happy day two years ago, might give me 
a cheer, and he led them on himself. Oh ! it was so- 
dreadfully sad ! To think of the contrast to the time two 
years ago, when my darling was so well and I so happy with 
him, and just beginning to recover from my great sorrow 
for dearest Mama's death looking forward to many more 
such delightful expeditions ; and the poor Duke then full 
of health and strength, walking the whole way, and at the 

( 7 ) 

'"March "* stopping to drink to our health and asking 
us to come again whenever we liked, and giving a regular 
Highland cheer in Highland fashion, returned by our 
men, the pipers playing, and all, all so gay, so bright ! 
And I so eager for next year's expeditions, which I ought 
not to have been ! Oh ! how little we know what is 
before us ! How uncertain is life ! I felt very sad, but 
was so much occupied with the poor Duke,f for whom 
I truly grieve, that I did not feel the trial of returning to 
Blair in such terribly altered circumstances, as I should 
otherwise have done. 

At Stanley function we joined the others, and pro- 
ceeded as usual to Aboyne, whence we drove in open 
carriages Lenchen, Alfred, and Baby with me and 
reached Balmoral at twenty minutes past six. It was 
very cold. Bertie and Alix were at the door, and stayed 
a little while afterwards. How strange they should be at 
Abergddie \ A few years ago dear Mama used to receive 

* The boundary of the Duke's property. " March " is the 
word commonly used in Scotland to express the outer limit or 
boundary of land. 

f He died in the following year, January 16, 1864. 


Wednesday, October 7, 1863. 

A hazy morning. I decided by Alice's advice, with 
a heavy heart, to make the attempt to go to Clova, At 
half-past twelve drove with Alice and Lenchen to 
Altnagiuthasach, where we lunched, having warmed some 
broth and boiled some potatoes, and then rode up and 
over the Capel Month in frequent slight snow-showers. 
All the high hills white with snow; and the view of the 
green Clova hills covered with snow at the tops, with 
gleams of sunshine between the showers, was very fine ; 
but it took us a long time, and I was very tired towards 
the end, and felt very sad and lonely. Loch Muich looked 
beautiful in the setting sun as we came down, and 
reminded me of many former happy days I spent there. 
We stopped to take tea at Altnagiuthasach. Grant was 
not with us, having gone with Vicky.* We started at 
about twenty minutes to seven from Altnagiuthasach, 
Brown on the box next Smith,f who was driving, little 
Willem (Alice's black serving boy) behind. It was quite 
dark when we left, but all the lamps were lit as usual; 

* She and Fritz Wilhelm had come three days before to stay at 
Abergeldie with their children. 

) Smith was pensioned in 1864 and died in 1866, having been 
thirty-one years in the Royal service. 

( 9 ) 

from the first, however, Smith seemed to be quite 
confused (and indeed has been much altered of late), 
and got off the road several times, once in a very dan- 
gerous place, when Alice called out and Brown got off 
the box to show him the way. After that, however, 
though going very slowly, we seemed to be all right, but 
Alice was not at all reassured, and thought Brown's 
holding up the lantern all the time on the box indicated 
that Smith could not see where he was going, though 
the road was as broad and plain as possible. Suddenly, 
about two miles from Altnagiuthasach, and about twenty 
minutes after we had started, the carriage began to turn 
up on one side; we called out: "What's the matter?" 
There was an awful pause, during which Alice said: "We 
are upsetting." In another moment during which I had 
time to reflect whether .we should be killed or not, and 
thought there were still things I had not settled and 
wanted to do the carriage turned over on its side, and 
we were all precipitated to the ground ! I came down 
very hard, with my face upon the ground, near the 
carriage, the horses both on the ground, and Brown 
calling out in despair, " The Lord Almighty have mercy 
on us! Who did ever see the like of this before! I 
thought you were all killed." Alice was soon helped up 
by means of tearing all her clothes to disentangle her; 
but Lenchen, who had also got caught in her dress, called 
out very piteously, which frightened me a good deal; but 
she was also got out with Brown's assistance, and neither 
she nor Alice was at all hurt. I reassured them that I 
was not hurt, and urged that we should make the best of 
it. as it was an inevitable misfortune. Smith, utterly con- 
fused and bewildered, at length came up to ask if I was 
hurt. Meantime the horses were lying on the ground 
as if dead, and it was absolutely necessary to get them rp 

again. Alice, whose calmness and coolness were admi- 
rable, held one of the lamps while Brown cut the traces, 
to the horror of Smith, and the horses were speedily 
released and got up unhurt. There was now no means of 
getting home except by sending back Smith with the two 
horses to get another carriage. All this took some time, 
about half an hour, before we got off. By this time I felt 
that my face was a good deal bruised and swollen, and, 
above all, my right thumb was excessively painful, and much 
swollen; indeed I thought at first it was broken, till we 
began to move it. Alice advised then that we should sit 
down in the carriage* that is, with the bottom of the car- 
riage as a back which we did, covered with plaids, little 
Willem sitting in front, with the hood of his " bournous " 
over his head, holding a lantern, Brown holding another, 
and being indefatigable in his attention and care. He 
had hurt his knee a good deal in jumping off the carriage. 
A little claret was all we could get either to drink or wash 
my face and hand. Almost directly after the accident 
happened, I said to Alice it was terrible not to be able 
to tell it to my dearest Albert, to which she answered: 
" But he knows it all, and 1 am sure he watched over us." 
I am thankful that it was by no imprudence of mine, or 
the slightest deviation from what my beloved one and I 
had always been in the habit of doing, and what he 
sanctioned and approved. 

The thought of having to sit here in the road ever so 
long was, of course, not very agreeable, but it was not 
cold, and I remembered from the first what my beloved 
one had always said to me, namely, to make the best of 
what could not be altered. We had a faint hope, at one 
moment, that our ponies might overtake us ; but then 
Brown recollected that they had started before us. We 
did nothing but talk of the accident, and how it could 


Thursday \ October 13, 1863. 

I was terribly nervous. Longed not to have to go 
through this fearful ordeal. Prayed for help, and got up 

A bad morning. The three younger children (except 
Baby). William of Hesse,* and the ladies and gentlemen 
all gone on. I started sad and lonely, and so strange 
without my darling, with dear Alice, Lenchen, and Louis. 
We could not have the carriage open. At Aboyne we 
met Vicky and Fritz, and both the couples went with me 
in the railway ; the Princes in Highland dress. I felt 
bewildered. It poured with rain, unfortunately. To 
describe the day's proceedings would be too painful and 
difficult ; but I annex the account. Vicky and Alice 
were with me, and the long, sad, and terrible procession 
through the crowded streets of Aberdeen, where all were 
kindly, but all were silent, was mournful, and as unlike 
former blessed times as could be conceived. Unfortu- 
nately it continued pouring. The spot where the Statue 
is placed is rather small, and on one side close to the 
bridge, but Marochetti chose it himself. 

I got out trembling ; and when I had arrived, there 
was no one to direct me and to say, as formerly, what 

* Youngest brother of Prince Louis of Hesse. 

( '3 ) 

was to be done. Oh ! it was and is too painful, too 
dreadful ! 

I received (only handed) the Provost's address, and 
knighted him (the first since all ended) with General 
Grey's sword. Then we all stepped on to the uncovered 
and wet platform directly opposite the Statue, which 
certainly is low, and rather small for out of doors, but 
fine and like. Principal Campbell's prayer was very 
long which was trying in the rain but part of it (since 
I have read it) is really very good. 

I felt very nervous when the Statue was uncovered, 
but much regretted that when they presented arms there 
was no salute with the drums, bugles, or the pipes, for 
the bands below were forbidden to play. I retired 
almost immediately. 

Just below and in front of where we stood were 
Lohlein, Mayet, Grant, Brown, Cowley, P. Farquharson, 
D. Stewart, Nestor,* Ross, and Paterson, whom we had 
brought with us and why was my darling not near me ? 
It was dreadfully sad. 

Took a little luncheon in a room upstairs with our 
girls, our footmen serving us. After this we left as we 
came. Affie met us there, and then took leave at the 
station, William of Hesse joining him. It was quite fair, 
provokingly so, when we got to Aboyne. Here we parted, 
took leave of Vicky and Fritz, and drove back in an open 
carriage, reaching Balmoral at half-past six. Very tired ; 
thankful it was over, but the recollection of the whole 
scene, of the whole journey, without my dear Albert, was 
dreadful ! Formerly how we should have dwelt on all ! 

* Lohlein, the Prince Consort's valet. Mayet, the Prince 
Consort's second valet, then with Prince Leopold. Cowley, the 
Prince Consort's Jager from ^648, pensioned in 1878, formerly in 
the Blues. Nestor Tirard, the Queen's hairdresser since 1846. 

( 14 ) 

[The following account of the ceremonial is taken from the 
" Scotsman " newspaper of October 14, 1863. 

The preparations made at the North-Eastern Station at 
Aberdeen for the reception of Her Majesty and the Princes 
and Princesses were very simple and undemonstrative. 
Two huge flags were suspended across the inside entrance, 
and the floor of the passage leading into the portico at Guild 
Street was laid with crimson cloth. The following gentle- 
men were in waiting at the station, and received the royal 
party on the platform : The Duke of Richmond ; the Lord 
Provost and Magistrates ; the Earl of Aberdeen ; Lord 
Saltoun ; Sir J. D. H. Elphinstone : Sir Alexander Banner- 
man, Bart. ; Lord Barcaple ; Mr. Thomson of Banchory ^ 
Colonel Fraser of Castle Fraser ; Colonel Fraser, younger, 
of Castle Fraser ; Mr. Leslie of Warthill, M.P. ; Mr. Irvine 
of Drum, convener of the county ; Colonel Farquharson of 
Invercauld ; Sheriff Davidson ; John Webster, Esq., and 
several of the railway directors and officials. 

On leaving the station, the procession was formed into 
the following order, and proceeded by way of Guild Street,. 
Regent Quay, Marischal Street, Castle Street, and Union, 
Street, to the site of the Memorial : 

Body of Police. 

Detachment of Cavalry. 

The Convener and Master of Hospital of the 

Incorporated Trades. 
The Principal and Professors of the University of Aberdeen. 

The City Architect. 

His Grace the Duke of Richmond, the Convener and Sheriff;" 
of the County, and the Committee of Subscribers to the 


The Lord Provost, 

and Magistrates, and Town Council. 

The Suite in Attendance on Her Majesty and Royal Family. 

Lady Augusta Bruce (in attendance on the Queen). 

Countess Hohenthal (in attendance on Crown -Princess 

Baroness Schenck (in attendance on Princess Louis of Hesse). 

Sir George Grey. 

The Princes Alfred, Arthur, and Leopold. 

Lady Churchill (Lady-in-Waiting). 

The Princess Helena. 

The Princess Louise. 

The Crown-Prince of Prussia. 

The Prince Louis of Hesse. 

The Princess Louis of Hesse. 

The Crown-Princess of Prussia. 

Cavalry Escort. 

The procession wound its way along the densely packed 
streets amid the deepest silence of the assemblage, everybody 
seeming to be animated by a desire to abstain from any 
popular demonstrations that might be distasteful to Her 
Majesty. On reaching the Northern Club buildings, Her 
Majesty, accompanied by the Prince and Princesses, Sir 
Charles Phipps,* Lord Charles Fitzroy, Major-General Hood, 
Dr. Jenner, General Grey, and the ladies and gentlemen of 
the suite, passed from their carriages into the lobby, and 
thence into the billiard room a handsome lofty room, which 
forms a half oval at the end towards Union Terrace. The 
Lord Provost then presented the following address to Her 
Majesty : 


The humble Address of Her Majesty's loyal and dutiful subjects, 
the contributors to the erection in Aberdeen of a Memorial 
Statue of His Royal Highness the Prince -Consort. 
May it please your Majesty, 

We, your Majesty's most loyal and dutiful subjects, the con- 
tributors to the erection in Aberdeen of a Memorial Statue of His 
Royal Highness the Prince-Consort, humbly beg leave to approach 

* Keeper of the Privy Purse, who died February 24, 1866, to 
my great regret, for he was truly devoted and attached to the dear 
Prince and me, with whom he had been for twenty years. 

your Majesty with the expression of our devoted attachment to you 
Majesty's person and government. 

We are enabled this day to bring to completion the work which 
we undertook in sorrowing and grateful remembrance of that illus- 
trious Prince, whose removal by the inscrutable will of Providence 
we, in common with all your Majesty's subjects, can never cease to 

No memorial is necessary to preserve the name of one who 
adorned the highest station of the land by the brightest display of 
intellectual and moral greatness, as well as the purest and most 
enlightened zeal for the public good ; whose memory is revered 
throughout the world, as that of few Princes has ever been ; and 
whose example will ever be cherished as a most precious inheritance 
by this great nation. Yet, in this part of the United Kingdom, 
which was honoured by the annual presence of the illustrious 
Prince, and in this city, which a few years ago was signally 
favoured by the exertion of his great talents as President of the 
British Association for the Advancement of Science, an earnest 
desire pervaded all ranks to give permanent expression to the pro- 
found reverence and affection he had inspired. 

How inadequate for such a purpose the memorial we have 
erected must be, we ourselves most deeply feel. But that your 
Majesty should have on this occasion graciously come forth again 
to receive the public homage of your loyal and devoted people, we 
regard as a ground of heartfelt thankfulness ; and viewing it as a 
proof that your Majesty approves the humble but sincere tribute of 
our sorrow, we shall ever be grateful for the exertion which your 
Majesty has made to afford us this proof. 

That Almighty God, the source of all strength, may comfort 
your Majesty's heart, prospering all your Majesty's designs and 
efforts for your people's good ; that He may bestow His choicest 
favours on your royal offspring, and continue to your devoted sub- 
jects for many years the blessings of your Majesty's reign, is our 
earnest and constant prayer. 

In name of the Contributors, 


Lord Provost of Aberdeen, 

Chairman of the Committee of Contributors. 

Aberdeen, October 13, 1863. 

On receiving the address, Her Majesty handed the 
following reply to the Lord Provost : 

Your loyal and affectionate address has deeply touched me, and 
I thank you for it from my heart. 

It was with feelings which I fail in seeking words to express 
that I determined to attend here to-day to witness the inaugurating 
of the statue which will record to future times the love and respect 
of the people of this county and city for my great and beloved 
husband. But I could not reconcile it to myself to remain at 
Balmoral while such a tribute was being paid to his memory with- 
out making an exertion to assure you personally of the deep and 
heartfelt sense I entertain of your kindness and affection ; and at 
the same time proclaim in public the unbounded reverence and 
admiration and the devoted love that fill my heart for him whose 
loss must throw a lasting gloom over all my future life. 

Never can I forget the circumstances to which you so feelingly 
alluded that it was in this city he delivered his remarkable address 
to the British Association a very few years ago ; and that in this 
county we had for so many years been in the habit of spending some 
of the happiest days of our lives. 

After the Queen's reply had been handed to the Lord 
Provost, Sir George Grey commanded his Lordship to kneel, 
when Her Majesty, taking a sword from Sir George, touched 
the Provost on each shoulder and said " Rise, Sir Alex- 
ander Anderson." This ceremony concluded, the Queen and 
the whole of the royal party then proceeded to the platform, 
Her Majesty's appearance on which was the signal for the 
multitude gathered outside to uncover their heads. Her 
Majesty, who appeared to be deeply melancholy and much 
depressed, though calm and collected, advanced to the front 
of the platform, while the Princes, who were all dressed in 
Royal Stewart tartan, and the Princesses, who wore blue 
silk dresses, white bonnets, and dark grey cloaks, took up a 
position immediately behind her. The proceedings were 
opened with a prayer by Principal Campbell, who spoke for 
about ten minutes, the assemblage standing uncovered in the 
rain, which was falling heavily at the time. During the time the 


learned Principal was engaged in prayer, Her Majesty more 
than once betrayed manifest and well-justified signs of im- 
patience at the length of the oration. At the conclusion of 
the prayer, a signal was given, the bunting which had con- 
cealed the statue was hoisted to the top of a flagstaff, and the 
ceremony was complete. 

Her Majesty, having scanned the statue narrowly, bowed 
to the assemblage and retired from the platform, followed by 
the royal party. After the illustrious company had lunched 
in the club, the procession was reformed and proceeded the 
same way as it came to the Scottish North-Eastern Station 
in Guild Street. Her Majesty left Aberdeen about three 



Tuesday, September 19, 1865. 

On waking I felt very low and nervous at the thought 
of the expedition. All so sadly changed. Started at 
eleven o'clock with Lenchen and Jane Churchill, Grant 
and Brown on the box like in former happy times. 
General Grey had preceded us, and we found him at 
the Bridge of Mutch, where our ponies were waiting. We 
had four gillies, three of whom were with us in 1861 
(Smith, Morgan, and Kennedy). The heat was intense 
going up the Polach. I got well enough through the bog, 
but Jane Churchill's pony floundered considerably. We 
lunched when we had crossed the Tanarand gone a little 
way up Mount Keen, and General Grey then went on to 
meet Lord Dalhousie. Two of his foresters had come to 
show us the way. We remounted after sitting and resting 
a little while, and ascended the shoulder of Mount Keen, 
and then rode on. The distance was very hazy. We 
got off and walked, after which I rode down that fine wild 
pass called the Ladder Burn ; but it seemed to strike me 
much less than when I first saw it, as all is flat now. At 
the foot of the pass Lord Dalhousie met us with General 
Grey, and welcomed us kindly ; and at the Shiel, a little 
further on, where we had lunched in 1861, Lady Christian 
Maule, Lord Dalhousie's sister, met us. She was riding. 

c 2 

( 20 ) 

We then went on a few yards further till we came to ihe 
Well, where we got off. It is really beautiful, built of 
white stones in the shape of the ancient crown of Scotland ; 
and in one of the pillars a plate is inserted with this 
inscription : " Queen Victoria with the Prince Consort 
visited this well and drank of its refreshing waters on the 
2oth September, 1861, the year of Her Majesty's great 
sorrow ; " and round the spring, which bubbles up beau- 
tifully, and quite on a level with the ground, is inscribed 
in old English characters the following legend : 

Rest, traveller, on this lonely green, 
And drink and pray for Scotland's Queen. 

We drank with sorrowing hearts from this very well, 
where just four years ago I had drunk with my beloved 
Albert ; and Grant handed me his flask (one I had given 
him), out of which we had drunk on that day ! Lord 
Dalhousie has kindly built this well in remembrance of 
that occasion. It was quite a pilgrimage. 

We afterwards had some tea, close by ; and this fine 
wide glen was seen at its best, lit up as it was by the 
evening sun, warm as on a summer's day, without a breath 
of air, the sky becoming pinker and pinker, the hills 
themselves, as you looked down the glen, assuming that 
beautifully glowing tinge which they do of an evening. 
The Highlanders and ponies grouped around the well 
had a most picturesque effect. And yet to me all seemed 
strange, unnatural, and sad. 

We mounted again, and went on pursuing the same 
way as we had done four years ago, going past the old 
Castle of Invermark. As there was time, however, we 
rode on to Loch Lee, just beyond it, which we had only 
seen from a distance on the last occasion. It is quite 
small, but extremely pretty, and was beautifully lit up, 

reminding me of the farthest end of Loch Mutch. After 
this we rode up to the house, the little drawing-room of 
which I well remembered ; it brought all back to me. 
Lady Christian took us upstairs. I had two nice small 
rooms. The two maids, Lenchen and Lady Churchill, 
and Brown were all in our passage, away from the rest of 
the house. I felt tired, sad, and bewildered. For the 
first time in my life I was alone in a strange house, with- 
out either mother or husband, and the thought over- 
whelmed and distressed me deeply. I had a dear child 
with me, but those loving ones above me were both gone, 
their support taken away ! It seemed so dreadful ! 
How many visits we paid together, my darling and I, 
and how we ever enjoyed them ! Even 'when they were 
trying and formal, the happiness of being together, and 
a world in ourselves, was so great. 

Dinner was below, in a pretty room which I also 
remembered. Only Lord Dalhousie, Lady Christian, 
the General, Lady Churchill, Lenchen, and I. I stayed 
but a short while below after dinner, and then went up 
with Lenchen and Jane Churchill, and afterwards walked 
out with Jane. It was very warm. 

Wednesday, September 20. 

A beautiful morning. Breakfasted alone with Lenchen 
in my own little sitting-room waited on by Brown, who 
is always ready to try to do anything required. At eleven 
we went out, and I planted two trees, and Lenchen one 
(instead of her blessed Father, alas !) We then mounted 
our ponies as yesterday, and proceeded (accompanied 
by Lord Dalhousie, Lady Christian, and several of his 
foresters) by a shorter road past the well, where we did 
not get off, up the Ladder Burn, on our homeward 

( 22 ) 

journey. We went the same way, stopping at the " March," 
where, in a high wind, we got off and lunched under some 
stones. Good Lord Dalhousie * was most hospitable and 
kind. The luncheon over, they took leave and went 
back, and General Grey went on in advance. As it was 
only one o'clock when we sat down to luncheon, we 
remained sitting some little time before we commenced 
our downward course. It was to-day strange to say 
the anniversary of our first visit to Invermark. Then we 
proceeded down the same way we had come up, across 
the Tanar, and when we had gone up some little way we 
stopped again, as we were anxious not to hurry home, and 
moreover the carriage would not have been ready to meet 
us. We had some tea, sketched a little, and rode on again ; 
the sky had become dark and cloudy, and suddenly down 
came a most violent shower of rain, which beat fiercely 
with the wind. We were just then going over the boggy 
part, which, however, we got across very well. As we 
came over the Polach the rain ceased. The view of the 
Valley of the Gairn and Muich as you descend is beau- 
tiful, and reminded me forcibly of our last happy expe- 
dition in 1 86 1, when Albert stopped to talk to Grant 
about the two forests, and said he and Grant might 
possibly be dead before they were completed ! There 
lay the landscape stretched out the same as before ; 
and all else was changed ! 

We got home at ten minutes past seven o'clock, when 
it was still raining a little. 

* He died in 1874. 


Monday, October 9, 1865. 

A thick, misty, very threatening morning ! There 
was no help for it, but it was sadly provoking. It was the 
same once or twice in former happy days, and my dear 
Albert always said we could not alter it, but must leave 
it as it was, and make the best of it. Our three little 
ones breakfasted with me. I was grieved to leave my 
precious Baby and poor Leopold behind. At ten started 
with Lenchen and Janie Ely (the same attendants on the 
box). General Grey 'had gone on an hour and a half 
before. We took post-horses at Castleton. It rained 
more or less the whole time. Then came the long well- 
known stage to the Spital of Glenshee, which seemed to 
me longer than ever. The mist hung very thick over the 
'hills. We changed horses there, and about a quarter of 
an hour after we had left it, we stopped to lunch in the 
carriage. After some delay we went on and turned into 
Strathardle, and then, leaving the Blairgowrie road, down 
to the farm of Pitcarmich^ shortly before coming to which 
Mr. Small Keir * of Kindrogan met us and rode before 
us to this farm. Here we found General Grey and our 
ponies, and here the dear Duchess of Athole and Miss 
MacGregor met us, and we got out and went for a short 

* His father was presented to me at Dunkeld in 1842. 

( 24 ) 

while into the farmhouse, where we took some wine and 
biscuit. Then we mounted our ponies (I on dear Fyvie, 
Lenchen on Brechin), and started on our course across 
the hill. There was much mist. This obscured all the 
view, which otherwise would have been very fine. At 
first there was a rough road, but soon there was nothing 
but a sheep-track, and hardly that, through heather and 
stones up a pretty steep hill. Mr. Keir could not keep 
up with the immense pace of Brown and Fyvie, which 
distanced every one; so he had to drop behind, and his 
keeper acted as guide. There was by this time heavy 
driving rain, with a thick mist. About a little more than 
an hour took us to the "March," where two of the 
Dunkeld men met us, John McGregor, the Duke's head 
wood-forester, and Gregor McGregor, the Duchess's 
gamekeeper ; and the former acted as a guide. The 
Duchess and Miss MacGregor were riding with us. We 
went from here through larch woods, the rain pouring at 
times violently. We passed (after crossing the Dunkeld 
March] Little Loch Otshne, and Loch Ois/ine, before 
coming to Loch Ordie. Here dripping wet we arrived at 
about a quarter-past six, having left Pitcarmich at twenty 
minutes to four. It was dark already from the very bad 
weather. We went into a lodge here, and had tea and 
whisky, and Lenchen had to get herself dried, as she was 
so wet. About seven we drove off from Loch Ordie. 
There was no outrider, so we sent on first the other car- 
riage with Lenchen, Lady Ely, and Miss MacGregor, and 
General Grey on the box, and I went with the Duchess 
in a phaeton which had a hood Brown and Grant going 
behind. It was pitch-dark, and we had to go through a 
wood, and I must own I was somewhat nervous. 

We had not gone very far when we perceived that we 
were on a very rough road, and I became much alarmed, 


( 25 ) 

though I would say nothing. A branch took off Grant's 
cap, and we had to stop for Brown to go back and look 
for it with one of the carriage-lamps. This stoppage was 
most fortunate, for he then discovered we were on a com- 
pletely wrong road. Grant and Brown had both been 
saying, " This is no carriage-road ; it is full of holes and 
stones." Miss MacGregor came to us in great distress, 
saying she did not know what to do, for that the coach- 
man, blinded by the driving rain, had mistaken the road, 
and that we were in a track for carting wood. What 
was to be done no one at this moment seemed to know 
whether to try and turn the carriage (which proved 
impossible) or to take a horse out and send the postilion 
back to Loch Ordie to get assistance. At length we heard 
from General Grey that we could go on, though where we 
should get out no one could exactly tell. Grant took a 
lamp out of the carriage and walked before the horses, 
while Brown led them ; and this reassured me. But the 
road was very rough, and we had to go through some deep 
holes full of water. At length, in about twenty minutes, 
we saw a light and passed a lodge, where we stopped 
and inquired where we were, for we had already come 
upon a good road. Our relief was great when we were 
told we were all right. Grant and Brown got up behind, 
and we trotted along the high road fast enough. Just 
before we came to the lodge, General Grey called out to 
ask which way the Duchess thought we should go, and 
Brown answered in her name, " The Duchess don't know 
at all where we are," as it was so dark she could not re- 
cognise familiar places. At length at a quarter to nine we 
arrived quite safely at Dunkeld, at the Duchess's nice snug 
little cottage, which is just outside the town, surrounded by 
fine large grounds. Two servants in kilts, and the steward, 
received us at the door. You come at once on the 

middle landing of the staircase, the cottage being built on 
sloping ground. The Duchess took me to my room, a 
nice little room, next to which was one for my wardrobe 
maid, Mary Andrews.* Lenchen was upstairs near Miss 
MacGregor on one side of the drawing-room, which was 
given up to me as my sitting-room, and the Duchess's 
room on the other. Brown, the only other servant in the 
house, below, Grant in the adjoining buildings to the 
house. The General and Lady Ely were at the hotel. 
We dined at half-past nine in a small dining-room below, 
only Lenchen, the Duchess, Miss MacGregor, and I. 
Everything so nice and quiet. The Duchess and Miss 
Macgregor carving, her three servants waiting. They 
were so kind, and we talked over the day's adventures. 
Lenchen and every one, except the Duchess and myself, 
had been drenched. The Duchess and her cousin 
stayed a short while, and then left us, and I wrote a 
little. Strange to say, it was four years to-day that we 
paid our visit to Blair and rode up Glen Tilt. How 
different ! 

Tuesday, October 10. 

A hopelessly wet morning. I had slept well, but felt 
sad on awaking. Breakfasted alone with Lenchen down- 
stairs, each day waited on by Brown. A dreadful morning, 
pouring rain. Sat upstairs in the drawing-room, and 
wrote a good deal, being perfectly quiet and undisturbed. 

Lenchen and I lunched with the Duchess and Miss 
MacGregor, and at four we drove up to the Duchess's 
very fine model farm of St. Colme's, about four miles from 
Dunkeld ; the Duchess and I in the phaeton, Lenchen, 
Janie Ely, and Miss MacGregor going in the other carriage. 
We went all over the farm in detail, which is very like 

* She left my service in 1866. 

( 27 ) 

ours at Osborne and Windsor, much having been adopted 
from our farms there ; and my dearest Husband had 
given the Duchess so much advice about it, that we both 
felt so sad he should not see it. 

We took tea in the farmhouse, where the Duchess has 
kept one side quite for herself, and where she intends to 
live sometimes with Miss MacGregor, and almost by 
themselves. From here we drove back and stopped at 
the "Byres" close by the stables, which were lit up 
with gas, and where we saw all the cows being milked. 
Very fine Ayrshire cows, and nice dairymaids. It is all 
kept up just as the late Duke wished it. We came home 
at past seven. It never ceased raining. The Cathedral 
bell began quite unexpectedly to ring, or almost toll, at 
eight o'clock, which the Duchess told us was a very 
old custom in fact, the curfew-bell. It sounds very 

Dinner just as yesterday. 

Wednesday, October n. 

Another wretchedly wet morning. Was much dis- 
tressed at breakfast to find that poor Brown's legs had been 
dreadfully cut by the edge of his wet kilt on Monday, just 
at the back of the knee, and he said nothing about it ; 
but to-day one became so inflamed, and swelled so much, 
that he could hardly move. The doctor said he must 
keep it up as much as possible, and walk very little, but 
did not forbid his going out with the carriage, which he 
wished to do. I did not go out in the morning, and 
decided to remain till Friday, to give the weather a chance. 
It cleared just before luncheon, and we agreed to take a 
drive, which we were able to do almost without any rain. 
At half-past three we drove out just as yesterday. There 

( 28 ) 

was no mist, so that, though there was no sunshine, we 
could see and admire the country, the scenery of which 
is beautiful. We drove a mile along the Blair Road to 
Polney Loch, where we entered the woods, and, skirting 
the loch, drove at the foot of Craig y Barns on grass drives 
which were very deep and rough, owing to the wet 
weather, but extremely pretty on to the Loch Ordie road. 
After ascending this for a little way we left it, driving all 
round Cally Loch (there are innumerable lochs) through 
Cally Gardens along another fine but equally rough wood 
drive, which comes out on the Blairgmvrie high road. After 
this we drove round the three Lochs of the Lowes viz. 
Craig Lush, Butterstone, and the Loch of the Lowes itself 
(which is the largest). They are surrounded by trees and 
woods, of which there is no end, and are very pretty. We 
came back by the Blairgowrie road and drove through 
Dunkeld (the people had been so discreet and quiet, I 
said I would do this), crossing over the bridge (where 
twenty -two years ago we were met by twenty of the Athole 
Highlanders, who conducted us to the entrance of the 
grounds), and proceeded by the upper road to the Rum- 
bling Bridge, which is Sir William Stewart of Grantitlly's 
property. We got out here and walked to the bridge, under 
which the Braan flowed over the rocks most splendidly ; 
and, swollen by the rain, it came down in an immense 
volume of water with a deafening noise. Returning 
thence we drove through the village of Inver to the Her- 
mitage on the banks of the Braan, which is Dunkeld 
property. This is a little house full of looking-glasses, 
with painted walls, looking on another fall of the Braan, 
where we took tea almost in the dark. It was built by 
James, the second Duke of Athole, in the last century. 
We drove back through Dunkeld again, the people cheer- 
ing. Quite fair. We came home at half-past six o'clock. 

Lady Ely and General Grey dined with us. After dinner 
only the Duchess came to the drawing-room, and read 
to us again. Then I wrote, and Grant waited instead of 
Brown, who was to keep quiet on account of his leg. 

Thursday, October 12. 

A fair day, with no rain, but, alas ! no sunshine. 
Brown's leg was much better, and the doctor thought he 
could walk over the hill to-morrow. 

Excellent breakfasts, such splendid cream and butter ! 
The Duchess has a very good cook, a Scotchwoman, and 
I thought how dear Albert would have liked it all. He 
always said things tasted better in smaller houses. There 
were several Scotch dishes, two soups, and the celebrated 
"haggis," which I tried last night, and really liked very 
much. The Duchess was delighted at my taking it. 

At a quarter past twelve Lenchen and I walked with 
the Duchess in the grounds and saw the Cathedral, part 
of which is converted into a parish church, and the other 
part is a most picturesque ruin. We saw the tomb of the 
Wolf of Badenoch, son of King Robert the Second. 
There are also other monuments, but in a very dilapidated 
state. The burying-ground is inside and south of the 
Cathedral. We walked along the side of the river Tay, 
into which the river Braan flows, under very fine trees, 
as far as the American garden, and then round by the 
terrace overlooking the park, on which the tents were 
pitched at the time of the great dejeuner that the Duke, 
then Lord Glenlyon, gave us in 1842, which was our first 
acquaintance with the Highlands and Highland customs ; 
and it was such a fine sight ! Oh ! and here we were 
together both widows ! 

We came back through the kitchen-garden by half-past 

( 30 ) 

one o'clock. After the usual luncheon, drove with Lenchen, 
the Duchess, and Miss MacGregor, at twenty minutes to 
four, in her sociable to Loch Ordie, by the lakes of Rotmell 
and Dowally through the wood, being the road by which 
we ought to have come the first night when we lost our 
way. It was cold, but the sky was quite bright, and it 
was a fine evening ; and the lake, wooded to the water's 
edge and skirted by distant hills, looked extremely 
pretty. We took a short row on it in a " coble " rowed 
by the head keeper, Gregor M'Gregor. We took tea 
under the trees. The evening was very cold, and it was 
getting rapidly dark. We came back safely by the road 
the Duchess had wished to come the other night, but 
which her coachman did not think safe on account of the 
precipices ! We got home at nine. Only the Duchess 
and Miss MacGregor dined with us. The Duke's former 
excellent valet, Christie (a Highlander, and now thej 
Duchess's house-steward), and George McPherson, piper, 
and Charles McLaren, footman, two nice, good-looking 
Highlanders in the Athole tartan, waited on us. The 
Duchess read again a little to us after dinner. 

Friday ', October 13. 

Quite a fine morning, with bright gleams of sunshine* 
lighting up everything. The piper played each morning 
in the garden during breakfast. Just before we left at 
ten, I planted a tree, and spoke to an old acquaintance, 
Willie Duff, the Duchess's fisherman, who had formerly 
a very long black beard and hair, which are now quite 
grey. Mr. Carrington, who has been Secretary in the 
Athole family for four generations, was presented. General 
Grey, Lady Ely, and Miss MacGregor had gone on a 
little while before us. Lenchen and I, with the Duchess, 

went in the sociable with four horses (Brown and Grant 
on the box). The weather was splendid, and the view, 
as we drove along the Inverness Road which is the road 
to Blair with all the mountains rising in the distance, 
was beautiful. 

We passed through the village of Ballinluig, where 
there is a railway station, and a quarter of a mile below 
which the Toy and the Tummel unite, at a place called 
Logierait, All these names were familiar to me from our 
stay in 1844. We saw the place where the monument 
to the Duke is to be raised, on an eminence above 
Logierait. About eleven miles from Dunkeld, just 
below Croftinloan (Captain Jack Murray's), we took 
post-horses. You could see Pitlochry in the distance to 
the left. We then left the Inverness Road, and turned to 
the right, up a very steep hill past Dunavourd (Mr. 
Napier's, son of the historian), past Edradour (the Duke's 
property), over a wild moor, reminding one very much 
of Aberarder (near Balmoral), whence, looking back, 
you have a beautiful view of the hills Schiehallion, Ben 
Lomond, and Ben Lawers. This glen is called Glen 
Brearichan, the little river of that name uniting with the 
Fernate, and receiving afterwards the name of the Ardle. 
On the left hand a shoulder of Ben-y- Gloe is seen. 

We lunched in the carriage at ten minutes past 
twelve, only a quarter of a mile from the West Lodge ot 
Kindrogan (Mr. Keir's). Here were our ponies, and 
General Grey, Lady Ely, and Miss MacGregor. We 
halted a short while to let General Grey get ahead, and 
then started on our ponies, Mr. Keir walking with us. 
We passed Mr. Keir's house of Kindrogan, out at the 
East Lodge, by the little village of Enoch Dim, up the 
rather steep ascent and approach of Dirnanean Mr. 
Small's place ; passing his house as we went. Mr. Small 

( 32 ) 

was absent, but two of his people, tall, fine-looking men, 
led the way ; two of Mr. Keir's were also with us. We 
turned over the hill from here, through a wild, heathery 
glen, and then up a grassy hill called the Larich, just 
above the Spital. Looking back the view was splendid, 
one range of hills behind the other, of different shades of 
blue. After we had passed the summit, we stopped for 
our tea, about twenty minutes to four, and seated 
ourselves on the grass, but had to wait for some time till 
a kettle arrived which had been forgotten, and had to be 
sent for from the Spital. This caused some delay. At 
length, when tea was over, we walked down a little way, 
and then rode. It was really most distressing to me to 
see what pain poor Brown suffered, especially in going 
up and down the hill. He could not go fast, and 
walked lame, but would not give in. His endurance on 
this occasion showed a brave heart indeed, for he resisted 
all attempts at being relieved, and would not relinquish 
his charge. 

We took leave of the dear kind Duchess and Miss 
MacGregor, who were going back to Kindrogan, and got 
into the carriage. We were able to ascend the Devil's 
Elbow before it was really dark, and got to Castleton at 
half- past seven, where we found our own horses, and 
reached Balmoral at half-past eight. 

( 33 ) 


Monday, October i, 1866. 

A very fine morning. Got up earlier, and break- 
fasted earlier, and left at a quarter to ten with Louise 
and Janie Ely (attended by Brown and Grant as 
formerly) ; Arthur having gone on with General Grey. 
We met many droves of cattle on the road, as it was the 
day for the tryst at Castleton. It was very hot, the sun 
very bright, and the Cairn Wall looked wild and grand. 
But as we went on the sky became dull and overcast, 
and we almost feared there might be rain. We walked 
down the Devil's Elbow, and when within a mile and a 
half of the Spital we stopped and lunched in the carriage, 
and even sketched a little. A little way on the north 
side of the Spital were the ponies, Gordon for me, 
Brechin for Louise, and Cromar for Janie Ely. There 
was a pony for Arthur, which he did not ride, and for 
Grant or any one who was tired. The dear Duchess of 
Athole and Miss MacGregor came to meet us here, and 
when we had reached the spot where the road turns up 
the hill, we found Mr. Keir and his son, and Mr. Small 
of Dirnanean a strong, good-looking, and pleasing 
person about thirty-two and his men, the same two 
fine tall men, preceding us as last year. It was a steep 
climb up the hill which we had then come down, and 


( 34 ) 

excessively hot. The views both ways beautiful, though 
not clear. The air was very heavy and oppressive. We 
went the same way as before, but the ground was very 
wet from the great amount of rain. We stopped a 
moment in passing, at Dirnanean, to speak to Miss 
Small, Mr. Small's sister, a tall, stout young lady,* and 
then went on to Kindrogan, Mr. Keir's. All about here 
the people speak Gaelic, and there are a few who do not 
speak a word of English. Soon after entering Mr. Keir's 
grounds we got off our ponies, and went along a few 
yards by the side of the river Ardle to where Mr. Keir 
had got a fire kindled and a kettle boiling, plaids spread 
and tea prepared. Mrs. Keir and her two daughters 
were there. She is a nice quiet person, and was a Miss 
Menzies, daughter of Sir Niel Menzies, whom I saw at 
Tay mouth in 1842. Only we ladies remained. The tea 
over, we walked up to the house, which is a nice, 
comfortable one. We waited here a little while, and I 
saw at the door Major Balfour of Fernie, the intended 
bridegroom of Mr. Keir's youngest daughter. At a 
little over a quarter-past five started in my sociable, with 
Louise and the Duchess. We came very fast and well 
with the Duchess's horses by exactly the same road we 
drove from Dunkeld last year. The horses were watered 
at the small half-way house of Ballinluig, and we reached 
Dunkeld in perfect safety at ten minutes past seven. I 
am where I was before, Louise in Lenchen's room, and 
Arthur in a room next to where Brown was before, and 
is now. All the rest the same, and snug, peaceful, and 

* Their father, a man of immense size, was presented to me at 
Dunkeld in 1842. 

( 35 ) 

Dunkeld, Tuesday, October 2. 

Mild and muggy, the mist hanging on the hills. 
Breakfasted with the children. Andrew Thomson 
attends to Arthur. Emilie * and Annie Macdonald t 
are with me here ; they help Louise, who, however, is 
very handy and can do almost everything for herself. 

At half-past eleven I drove out alone with the Duchess 
through the woods to Polney, and then along the road, 
and turned in at Willie Duff's Lodge, and down the whole 
way along the river under splendid trees which remind 
me of Windsor Park. How dearest Albert would have 
admired them ! We ended by a little walk, and looked 
into the old ruin. At twenty minutes to four we drove, 
the Duchess, Louise, and I Janie Ely and Miss Mac- 
Gregor following to Criejf-gs&e. on the road of the Loch of 
the Loives, where we got on ponies and rode for about an 
hour and a half through beautiful woods (saw a caper- 
cailzie, of which there are many here), but in a very thick 
mist (with very fine rain) which entirely destroyed all 
idea of view and prevented one's seeing anything but 
what was near. We came down to St. ColmJs, where we 
got off, but where again, like last year, we saw nothing of 
the beautiful view. Here we took tea out of the tea-set I 
had given the Duchess. She has furnished all her rooms 
here so prettily. How Albert would have liked all this ! 

Dinner as yesterday. Brown waited at dinner. 

* Emilie Dittweiler, my first dresser, a native of Carlsruhe, in 
the Grand Duchy of Baden, who has been twenty-four years in my 

. f My first wardrobe woman, who has been twenty-seven years 
in my service, daughter of Mitchel, the late blacksmith at Clachan- 
turn, near Abergeldie, and widow of my footman, John Macdonald, 
who died in 1865 (vide " Our Life in the Highlands"). 

D 2 

( 36 ) 

Wednesday, October 3. 

Just returned from a beautiful and successful journey 
of seventy miles (in ten hours and a half). I will try and 
begin an account of it. At nine the Duchess sent up to 
say she thought the mist would clear off (it was much the 
same as yesterday), and to suggest whether we had not 
better try and go as far as her horses would take us, and 
return if it was bad. I agreed readily to this. Arthur 
left before our breakfast to go to the Pass of Killiecrankie 
with Lady Ely and General Grey. At a quarter past ten, 
well provided, we started, Louise, the Duchess, Miss 
MacGregor, and I (in our riding habits, as they take less 
room). The mist was very thick at first, and even accom- 
panied by a little drizzling rain, so that we could see none 
of the distant hills and scenery. We crossed the Toy 
Bridge, drove through Little Dunkeld and along the 
Braan through Inver (where Niel Gow, the fiddler, lived), 
afterwards along the Toy opposite to St. ColmJs. Four 
miles from Dunkeld, at Inchmagranachan Farm, the 
Highlands are supposed to begin, and this is one of the 
boundaries of Athole. We drove through some beautiful 
woods oak and beech with brushwood, reminding one 
of Windsor Park overtopped by rocks. A mile further 
Dalguise begins (the property of Mr. Stewart, now at the 
Cape of Good Hope), which is remarkable for two large 
orchards at either end, the trees laden with fruit in a way 
that reminded me of Germany. Kinnaird is next, the 
jointure house of the late Lady Glenlyon (mother to the 
late Duke). Just beyond this the Tummel and the Tay 
join at the point of Logierait. 

We now entered Strath Tay, still the Duke of Athole's . 
property, on the side along which we drove. The Tay 
is a fine large river ; there are many small properties on 

( 37 ) 

the opposite side in the woods. The mist was now less 
thick and there was no rain, so that all the near country 
could be well seen. Post-horses from Fisher of Castle- 
ton's brother, the innkeeper at Dunkeld, were waiting for 
us at Skituan, a little beyond Balnaguard (where we 
changed horses in 1842, and this was the very same road 
we took then). Now an unsightly and noisy railroad runs 
along this beautiful glen, from Dunkeld?& far as Aberfeldy. 
We passed, close to the road, Grantnlly Castle, belong- 
ing to Sir William Stewart, and rented by the Maharajah 
Duleep Singh. It is a curious old castle, much in the 
style of Abergeldte,'yi\\h an avenue of trees leading up to it. 
At Aberfeldy, a pretty village opposite to Castle 
Menzies, one or two people seemed to know us. We now 
came in among fine high-wooded hills, and here it was 
much clearer. We were in the Breadalbane property and 
approaching Toy mouth. We passed, to the left, Bolfrax, 
where Lord Breadalbane's factor still lives, and to the 
right the principal lodge of Taymouth, which I so well 
remember going in by ; but as we could not have driven 
through the grounds without asking permission and be- 
coming known, which for various reasons we did not wish, 
we decided on not attempting it, and contented ourselves 
with getting out at a gate, close to a small fort, into 
which we were admitted by a woman from the gardener's 
house, close to which we stopped, and who had no idea 
who we were. * We got out and looked down from this 
height upon the house below, the mist having cleared 
away sufficiently to show us everything ; and here un- 
known, quite in private, I gazed, not without deep inward 
emotion, on the scene of our reception, twenty-four years 
ago, by dear Lord Breadalbane in a princely style, not to 
be equalled for grandeur and poetic effect ! Albert and 

* The passage between the asterisks was quoted in a note in 
"Our Life in the Highlands," page 22. 

I were only twenty-three, young and happy. How many 
are gone who were with us then ! I was very thankful 
to have seen it again. It seemed unaltered. * Everything 
was dripping from the mist. Taymouth is twenty-two 
miles from Dunkeld. 

We got into the carriage again ; the Duchess this time 
sitting near to me to prevent our appearance creating 
suspicion as to my being there. We drove on a short way 
through splendid woods with little waterfalls, and then 
turned into the little village of Kenmore, where a tryst was 
being held, through the midst of which we had to drive ; 
but the people only recognised the Duchess. There was 
music going on, things being sold at booths, and on the 
small sloping green near the church cattle and ponies were 
collected a most picturesque scene. Immediately after 
this we came upon the bridge, and Loch Tay, with its 
wooded banks, clear and yet misty, burst into view. This 
again reminded me of the past of the row up the loch, 
which is sixteen miles long, in 1842, in several boats, with 
pibrochs playing, and the boatmen singing wild Gaelic 
songs. The McDougall steered us then, and showed us 
the real Brooch of Lome taken from Robert Bruce. 

To the right we could see the grounds and fine park, 
looking rather like an English one. We stopped at Mur- 
ray's Lodge, but, instead of changing horses here, drove 
five miles up the loch, which was quite clear, and the 
stillness so great that the reflection on the lake's bosom 
was as strong as though it were a real landscape. Here 
we stopped, and got out and sat down on the shore of the 
loch, which is covered with fine quartz, of which we picked 
up some ; took our luncheon about half-past one, and then 
sketched. By this time the mist had given way to the sun, 
and the lake, with its richly wooded banks and changing 
foliage, looked beautiful. 

( 39 ) 

At half-past two we re-entered our carriage, the horses 
having been changed, and drove back up a steep hill, 
crossing the river Lyon and going into Glenlyon, a. beauti- 
ful wild glen with high green hills and rocks and trees, 
which I remember quite well driving through in 1842 
then also on a misty day : the mist hung over, and even 
in some places below the tops of the hills. We passed 
several small places Glenlyon House, the property of F. 
G. Campbell of Troup. To the left also Fortingal village 
Sir Robert Menzies' and a new place called Dunaven 
House. Small, picturesque, and very fair cottages were 
dotted about, and there were others in small clusters ; 
beautiful sycamores and other trees were to be seen near 
the riverside. We then passed the village of Coshieville, 
and turned by the hill-road up a very steep hill with a 
burn flowing at the bottom, much wooded, reminding me 
ofM'fnroy's Burn passed the ruins of the old castle of 
the Stewarts of Garth, and then came on a dreary wild 
moor passing below Schiehallion, one of the high hills 
and at the summit of the road came to a small loch, 
called Ceannairdiche. 

Soon after this we turned down the hill again into 
woods, and came to Tummel Bridge, where we changed 
horses. Here were a few, but very few people, who I 
think, from what Brown and Grant who, as usual, were 
in attendance said, recognised us, but behaved extremely 
well, and did not come near. This was at twenty minutes 
to four. We then turned as it were homewards, but had 
to make a good long circuit, and drove along the side of 
Loch Tuinmel, high above the loch, through birch wood, 
which grows along the hills much the same as about 
Birkhall. It is only three miles long. Here it was again 
very clear and bright. At the end of the loch, on a high- 
ish point called after me " The Queen's View " though 

( 40 ) 

I had not been there in 1844 we got out and took tea. 
But this was a long and unsuccessful business ; the fire 
would not burn, and the kettle would not boil. At length 
Brown ran off to a cottage and returned after some little 
while with a can full of hot water, but it was no longer 
boiling when it arrived, and the tea was not good. Then 
all had to be packed, and it made us very late. 

It was fast growing dark. We passed Alleinc, Sir 
Robert Colquhoun's place, almost immediately after this, 
and then, at about half-past six, changed horses at the 
Bridge of Garry, near, or rather in the midst of, the Pass 
of Killiecrankie; but from the lateness of the hour and 
the dulness of the evening for it was raining we could 
see hardly anything. 

We went through Pitlochry, where we were recognised, 
but got quite quietly through, and reached Ballinl-uig, 
where the Duchess's horses were put on, at a little before 
half-past seven. Here the lamps were lit, and the good 
people had put two lighted candles in each window! 
They offered to bring " Athole brose," which we, however, 
declined. The people pressed round the carriage, and 
one man brought out a bull's-eye lantern which he turned 
upon me. But Brown, who kept quite close, put himself 
between me and the glare. We ought to have been 
home in less than an hour from this time, but we had 
divers impediments twice the plaid fell out and had to 
be picked up; and then the lamp which I had given to 
the Duchess, like the one our outrider carries, was lit, 
and the coachman who rode outrider, and who was not 
accustomed to use it, did not hold it rightly, so that it 
went out twice, and had to be relit each time. So we 
only got home at a quarter to nine, and dined at twenty 
minutes past nine. But it was a very interesting day. 
We must have gone seventy-four miles. 

Thursday, October 4. 

Again heavy mist on the hills most provoking but 
without rain. The Duchess came to ask if I had any 
objection to the servants and gillies having a dance for 
two hours in the evening, to which I said, certainly not, 
and that I would go to it myself. At a quarter to twelve 
I rode in the grounds with the Duchess, going round 
Bishop's Hill and up to the King's Seat, a good height, 
among the most splendid trees beeches, oaks, Scotch 
firs, spruce really quite like Windsor, and reminding 
me of those fine trees at the Belvidere, and a good deal 
of Reinhardtsbrunn (in the forest of Thuringia). But 
though less heavy than the two preceding mornings and 
quite dry, it was too hazy to see any distant hills, and 
Craig y Barns, that splendid rocky, richly wooded hill 
overtopping the whole, only peeped through the mist 
occasionally. From the King's Seat we came down by 
the fort and upon the old " Otter Hound Kennels" where 
we saw Mrs. Fisher, the mother of Agnes Brierly, who was 
formerly schoolmistress to the Lochnagar girls' school near 
Balmoral. We came in at a little after one, expecting it 
would clear and become much finer, instead of which it 
got darker and thicker. 

At twenty minutes to four drove with the Duchess, 
Miss MacGregor and Janie Ely following, to Loch Ch'.nie 
by the Loch of the Lowes, and passed Laighwood Farm. 
We drove round the loch; saw and stopped to sketch the 
old castle of Chtnie, on a little island in the loch, the 
property of Lord Airlie. The scenery is tame, but very 
pretty with much wood, which is now in great beauty 
from the change of the leaf. The distance was enveloped 
in mist, and, as we drove back towards Dunkeld by the 
Cupar Angus Road, it was quite like a thick Windsor 
fog, but perfectly dry. 

( 42 ) 

We stopped to take tea at Ntwfyle, a farm of the 
Duchess, about two miles from Dunkeld, where she has 
a small room, and which supplies turnips, etc., for the fine 
dairy cows. We got home by five minutes to seven. We 
passed through the town, where the people appeared at 
their doors cheering, and the children made a great noise. 
Dinner as before. At half-past ten we went down 
(through the lower passages) to the servants' hall, in 
which the little dance took place. All the Duchess's 
servants, the wives of the men-servants, the keepers, the 
wood-forester (J. M'Gregor, who has an extensive charge 
over all the woods on the Athole property), the gardener, 
and some five or six others who belong to my guard 
(eight people, belonging to the Duchess or to the town, 
who take their turn of watching two by two at night), 
besides all our servants, were there; only Grant and two 
of the gillies did not appear, which vexed us; but the 
gillies had not any proper shoes, they said, and therefore 
did not come. Janie Ely came; also Mr. Keir, and both 
were very active; General Grey only looked in for a 
moment, as he was suffering severely from cold. The 
fiddlers played in very good time, and the dancing was 
very animated, and went on without ceasing. Louise 
and Arthur both danced a good deal. Nothing but reels 
were danced. Even the Duchess's old French maid, 
Clarice, danced! She no longer acts as the Duchess's 
maid, but still lives near, in the adjacent so-called " brick 

Friday, October 5. 

A brighter morning, though still hazy. The sun came 
out and the mist seemed dispersing. At twenty minutes 
to one started with the Duchess and Louise, the two 
ladies following, for Loch Ordie. Several times during 

( 43 ) 

the drive the mist regained its mastery, but then again 
the sun struggled through, blue sky appeared, and the 
mist seemed to roll away and the hills and woods to break 
through. We drove by Craig Lush and Butterstone Lochs, 
and then turned by the Riechip Burn up a very steep 
hill, finely wooded, passing by Riechip and Raemore, two 
of the Duke of Athole's shooting lodges, both let. After 
the last the road opens upon a wild moor (or " muir ") 
for a short while, before entering the plantations and 
woods of Loch Ordie. Here, quite close to the lodge, on 
the grass, we took luncheon. The Duchess had had a 
hot venison pie brought, which was very acceptable. The 
sun had come out, and it was delightfully warm, with a 
blue sky and bright lights, and we sat sketching for some 
time. The good people have made a cairn amongst the 
trees where we had tea last year. 

At four we drove away, and went by the road which 
leads towards Tullymet, and out of the woods by Hardy's 
Lodge, near a bridge. We stopped at a very picturesque 
place, surrounded by woods and hills and little shiels, 
reminding me of the Laucha Grund at Reinhardtsbntnn. 
Opposite to this, on a place called Ruidh Reinnich, or the 
" ferny shieling," a fire was kindled, and we took our tea. 
We then drove back by the upper St. Colme's Road, after 
which we drove through the town, up Bridge Street, and 
to the Market Cross, where a fountain is being erected in 
memory of the Duke. We went to see the dairy, and 
then came home on foot at a quarter to seven. Rested 
on the sofa, as my head was bad ; it got better, however, 
after dinner. 

Saturday, October 6. 

A beautiful, bright, clear morning, most provokingly 
so. After breakfast at half-past nine, we left, with real 

( 44 ) 

regret, the kind Duchess's hospitable house, where all 
breathes peace and harmony, and where it was so quiet 
and snug. It was a real holiday for me in my present 
sad life. Louise and the Duchess went with me; the 
others had gone on. Some of the principal people con- 
nected with the Duchess stood along the approach as we 
drove out. We went the usual way to Loch Ordie, and 
past the lodge, on to the east end of the loch, the latter 
part of the road being very rough and deep. Here we 
all mounted our ponies at half-past eleven, and proceeded 
on our journey. A cloudless sky, not a breath of wind, 
and the heat intense and sickening. We went along a 
sort of cart-road or track. The burn of Riechip runs out 
of this glen, through which we rode, and which really is 
very beautiful, under the shoulder of Benachallie. The 
shooting tenant of Raemore, a Mr. Gordon, was out on 
the opposite side of the glen on a distant hill. We rode 
on through the woods ; the day was very hazy. After a 
few miles the eastern shore of Loch Oishne was reached, 
and we also skirted Little Loch Oishne for a few hundred 
yards. We followed from here the same road which we 
had come on that pouring afternoon in going to Dunkeld 
last year, till at a quarter to one we reached the Kindro- 
gan March. Here Mr. Keir, his son, and his keeper met 
us. Thence we rode by Glen Derby, a wild open glen 
with moors. Descending into it, the road was soft but 
quite safe, having been purposely cut and put in order 
by Mr. Keir. We then ascended a steepish hill, after 
passing a shepherd's hut. Here Arthur and General 
Grey rode off to Kindrogan, young Mr. Keir with them, 
whence they were to drive on in advance. As we de- 
scended, we came upon a splendid view of all the hills, 
and also of Glen Female, which is the way to Fealar. 
At half-past two we five ladies lunched on a heathery 

( 45 ) 

knoll, just above Mr. Keir's wood, and were indeed glad 
to do so, as we were tired by the great heat. As soon as 
luncheon was over, we walked down through the wood a 
few hundred yards to where the carriage was. Here we 
took leave, with much regret, of the dear kind Duchess 
and amiable Miss MacGregor, and got into the carriage 
at half-past three, stopping for a moment near Kindrogan 
to wish Mrs. Keir and her family good-bye. We drove 
on by Kirkmichael, and then some little way until we got 
into the road from Blairgowrie. The evening was quite 
splendid, the sky yellow and pink, and the distant hills 
coming out soft and blue, both behind and in front of us. 
We changed horses at the Spital, and about two miles 
beyond it at a place called Loch-na-Braig we stopped, 
and while Grant ran back to get from a small house some 
hot water in the kettle, we three, with Brown's help, 
scrambled over a low stone wall by the roadside, and lit 
a fire and prepared our tea. The kettle soon returned, 
and the hot tea was very welcome and refreshing. 

We then drove off again. The scenery was splendid 
till daylight gradually faded away, and then the hills 
looked grim and severe in the dusk. We cleared the 
Devil's Elbow well, however, before it was really dark, 
and then many stars came out, and we reached Balmoral 
in safety at half-past eight o'clock. 


Tuesday, October 16, 1866. 

At a quarter-past ten left for Ballater with Lenchen 
and Louise ; Christian, Arthur, the Duchess of Roxburghe 
and Emily Cathcart in the second ; the gentlemen 
(General Grey, * etc.) having gone on in front. We went 
by the railway, which was useful on this occasion. We 
went about three-quarters of an hour by railway, and 
then stopped close to Inchmarlo, Mr. Davidson's place, 
not far from Kincardine O'Ncil. Here we got into 
carriages Lenchen and Louise with me, Christian, 
Arthur, and the two equerries, etc., in the next. About 
twenty minutes' drive took us to Intiercannie, where the' 
ceremony took place. I got out and stood outside the 
tent while the Lord Provost (whom I knighted at Aber- 
deen in 1863) read the address. Then I had to read my 
answer, which made me very nervous ; but I got through 
it well, though it was the first time I had read anything 
since my darling Husband was taken from me. Then 
came the turning of the cock, and it was very pretty to see 
the water rushing up. 

* He died on March 31, 1870. He had been with me as 
equerry from the time I came to the Throne. In 1846 he became 
Private Secretary to the Prince, and from December 1861 held the 
same position with me till his death. He was highly esteemed and 
valued by us both, and his loss grieved me deeply. 

( 47 ) ' 

These waterworks are on a most extensive scale, and 
are estimated to convey to the city 6,000,000 gallons of 
water daily. The water is from the river Z)ee, from 
which it is diverted at Cairnton, about four miles above 
Bancliory. The principal features of the works are a 
tunnel 760 yards in length, which is cut through the 
hill of Cairnton, composed of solid rock of a very hard 
nature. At the end of the tunnel is the Invercannie 
Reservoir, where the ceremony took place. This reser- 
voir is estimated to contain 15,000,000 gallons of water. 
It is just two years and a half since the first turf of 
the undertaking was cut, and the cost of the works is 
i3o,ooo/. The ceremony was over in less than a quarter 
of an hour, and we returned as we came, stopping a 
moment at the door of Mr. Davidson's house, where his 
daughter presented me with a nosegay. The day was 
fine and mild. The people were very kind, and cheered 
a good deal. 

We got back at twenty minutes past two. 

OCTOBER 31, 1866-1867. 

While we were at Mrs. Grant's we saw the commence- 
ment of the keeping of Halloween. All the children 
came out with burning torches, shouting and jumping. 
The Protestants generally keep Halloween on the old 
day, November 12, and the Catholics on this day; but 
hearing I had wished to see it two years ago, they all 
decided to keep it to-day. When we drove home we saw 
all the gillies coming along with burning torches, and 
torches and bonfires appeared also on the opposite side 
of the water. We went upstairs to look at it from the 
windows, from whence it had a very pretty effect. 

On the same day in the following year, viz., Thursday, 
October 31, 1867, we had an opportunity of again seeing 
the celebration of Halloween, and even of taking part in 
it. We had been out driving, but we hurried back to be 
in time for the celebration. Close to Donald Stewart's 
house we were met by two gillies bearing torches. Louise 
got out and took one, walking by the side of the carriage, 
and looking like one of the witches in "Macbeth." As 
we approached Balmoral^ the keepers and their wives and 
children, the gillies and other people met us, all with 
torches ; Brown also carrying one. We got out at the 

( 49 ) 

'house, where Leopold joined us, and a torch was given 
:to him. We walked round the whole house, preceded 
by Ross playing the pipes, going down the steps of the 
terrace. Louise and Leopold went first, then came 
Janie Ely and I, followed by every one carrying torches, 
which had a very pretty effect. After this a bonfire was 
made of all the torches, close to the house, and they 
danced reels whilst Ross played the pipes. 

( 5 ) 

COUNTRY, AUGUST 20, 1867. 

Tuesday, August 20, 1867. 

At ten o'clock I left Windsor (those night departures 
are always sad) with Louise, Leopold, and Baby (Beatrice); 
Lenchen, Christian, and their little baby boy meeting us 
at the station. Jane Churchill, Harriet Phipps, the two 
governesses, Sir Thomas Biddulph, Lord Charles Fitz- 
Roy, Colonel G. Gordon, Mr. Duckworth, and Dr. Jenner 
were in attendance. I had been much annoyed to hear 
just before dinner that our saloon carriage could not go 
under some tunnel or arch beyond Carlisle, and that I 
must get out and change carriages there. 

Wednesday, August 21. 

The railway carriage swung a good deal, and it was i 
very hot, so that I did not get much sleep. At half-past 
seven I was woke up to dress and hurry out at Carlisle, 
which we did at a quarter to eight. Here in the station 
we had some breakfast, and waited an hour till our car- 
riage was taken off and another put on (which they have 
since found out was quite unnecessary!) The morning, 
which had been gloomy, cleared and became very fine, 
and we went on along such a pretty line through a very 

pretty country, through Eskdah and past Netherly, as far 
as Riddings, and then leaving the Esk entered Liddes- 
dale, the railway running along the Liddel Water to 
Riccarton station, where we stopped for a moment. We 
next came along the Slitrig Water to Hawick, where we 
went slowly, which the people had begged us to do, and 
where were great crowds. Here we entered Teviotdale 
and descended it, entering the valley of the Tweed at Si. 
BosweWs. Between St. BoswelFs and Kelso at Roxburgh 
station, we crossed the Teviot again. We passed close 
under the Eildon Hills, three high points rising from the 
background. The country is extremely picturesque, 
valleys with fine trees and streams, intermingled with 
great cultivation. Only after half-past eleven did we 
reach Kelso station, which was very prettily decorated, 
and where were standing the Duke and Duchess of Rox- 
burgh e, Lord Bowmont, the Duke of Buccleuch, and 
Lord C. Ker, as well as General Hamilton, commanding 
the forces in Scotland. AVe got out at once. I embraced 
the dear Duchess, and shook hands with the two Dukes, 
and then at once entered the carriage (mine) with 
Lenchen, Louise, and the Duchess ; Beatrice, Leopold, 
and Christian going in the second, and the others fol- 
lowing in other carriages. 

The morning beautiful and very mild. AA 7 e drove 
through the small suburb of Maxwell Heugh, down into 
the town of Kelso, and over the bridge which commands 
a beautiful view of the broad stream of the Tweed and of 
the Park of Floors, with the fine house itself. Everywhere 
decorations, and great and most enthusiastic crowds. The 
little town of Kelso is very picturesque, and there were 
triumphal arches, and no end of pretty mottoes, and every 
house was decorated with flowers and flags. Fifty ladies 
dressed in white strewed flowers as we passed. Volunteers 

E 2 

( 52 ) 

were out and bands playing. At the Market Place the 
carriage stopped ; an address was presented, not read ; 
and a little girl was held up to give me an enormous 
bouquet. Immense and most enthusiastic cheering. We 
then drove on, amidst continued crowds and hearty cheers, 
up to the very park gates, where the old Sheriff, eighty- 
five years old, was presented. The park is remarkably fine, 
with the approach under splendid beech, sycamore, and 
oak trees. The house very handsome, built originally by 
Sir John Vanbrugh in 1718, but much improved by the 
present Duke. You drive under a large porch, and then 
go up a flight of steps to the hall. The Duke's band was 
stationed outside. Mr. and Lady Charlotte Russell, Mr. 
Suttie, and Lady Charles Ker were in the hall. The 
Duchess took us into the library, where the Duke of 
Buccleuch joined us, and, after waiting a little while, we 
had breakfast (ourselves alone) in the really splendid 
dining-room adjoining, at ten minutes past twelve. This 
over, the Duchess showed us to our rooms upstairs. I had 
three that were very comfortable, opening one into the 
other ; a sitting-room, dressing-room, and the largest of 
the three, the bedroom, simple, with pretty chintz, but 
very elegant, nice and comfortable. The children were 
close at hand. But the feeling of loneliness when I saw 
no room for my darling, and felt I was indeed alone and 
a widow, overcame me very sadly ! It was the first time 
I had gone in this way on a visit (like as in former times), 
and I thought so much of all dearest Albert would have 
done and said, and how he would have wandered about 
everywhere, admired everything, looked at everything 
and now ! Oh ! must it ever, ever be so ? 

At half-past two lunched (as at home) in the fine 
dining-room. A lovely day. The view from the windows 
beautiful, The distant Cheviot range with a great deal of 

( 53 ) 

wood, Kelso embosomed in rich woods, with the bridge, 
and the Tiueed flowing beneath natural grass terraces 
which go down to it. Very fine. It reminded me a little 
of the view from the fhoenix Park near Dublin. 

At half-past five walked out with Lenchen and the 
kind Duchess to a spot where I planted a tree,* and then 
we walked on to the flower-garden,, where there are a 
number of very fine hot-houses, and took tea in a pretty 
little room adjoining them, which is entirely tiled. After 
this we took a pleasant drive in the fine park, which is 
full of splendid timber, along the Tweed, and below the 
ruins of the celebrated old Castle of Roxburgh, of which 
there is very little remaining. It is on a high eminence ; 
the Tweed and Teviot are on either side of it, so that the 
position is remarkably strong. It stood many a siege, and 
was frequently taken by the English and retaken by the 
Scotch. Scotch and even English kings, amongst them 
Edward III., held their Court there. 

We came home at eight. The Duke and Duchess 
dined with us, and after dinner we watched the illumina- 
tions and many bonfires from the library, and afterwards 
went for a moment into the drawing-room to see the ladies 
and gentlemen, after which I went up to my room, where 
I sat and rested, feeling tired and only able to read the 

Thursday, August 22. 

A fine morning, though rather hazy. The night and 
moonlight had been beautiful. Breakfasted with our 
family in the breakfast-room. At twenty minutes to 
eleven went and sat out under some trees on the lawn 

* The gardener, Hector Rose, became head gardener at 
Windsor in the spring of 1868, and died, alas ! June 5, 1872, after 
having filled his situation admirably. 

near the house writing, where I was quite quiet and 
undisturbed, and remained till half-past twelve, resting, 
reading, etc. Immediately after luncheon started in two 
carriages, the Duchess and our two daughters with me ; 
Christian, the Duke, Lady Charlotte Russell, and Lord 
Charles Fitz-Roy in the second carriage (with post-horses). 
We had the Duke's horses as far as Ravenswood. We 
drove through Kelso, which was full of people, crossed the 
Tweed and Temot (where the waters join), and passed 
below the old Castle of Roxburgh. The country is very 
pretty, hilly, wooded, and cultivated. Not long after we 
started, the second carriage disappeared, and we waited 
for it. It seems that, at the first hill they came to, the 
wheelers would not hold up. So we stopped (and this 
delayed us some time), the leaders replaced the wheelers, 
and they came on with a pair. Then we drove up to St. 
BosweU's Green, with the three fine Eildon hills before us 
which are said to have been divided by Michael Scott, 
the wizard seeing Mertoun, my excellent Lord Polwarth's 
place, on the other side of the road. Alas ! he died only 
last Friday from a second stroke, the first of which seized 
him in February ; and now, when he had intended to be 
at the head of the volunteers who received me at Kelso, 
he is lying dead at his house which we passed so near ! It 
lies low, and quite in among the trees. I lament him 
deeply and sincerely, having liked him very much, as did 
my dearest Albert also, ever since we knew him in 1858. 
We changed horses at Ravensivood, or old Melrose 
(where I had my own), having caught a glimpse of where 
Dryburgh Abbey is, though the railway almost hides it. 
The Duke of Buccleuch met us there, and rode the whole 
way. Everywhere, wherever there were dwellings, there 
was the kindest welcome, and triumphal arches were 
erected. We went by the side of the Eildon Hills, past 

( 55 ) 

an immense railway viaduct, and nothing could be prettier 
than the road. The position of Melrose is most pictu- 
resque, surrounded by woods and hills. The little village, 
or rather town, of Newstead, which we passed through just 
before coming to Melrose, is very narrow and steep. We 
drove straight up to the Abbey through the grounds of the 
Duke of Buccleuch's agent, and got out and walked about 
the ruins, which are indeed very fine, and some of the ar- 
chitecture and carving in beautiful preservation. David I., 
who is described as a " sair Saint," originally built it, but 
the Abbey, the ruins of which are now standing, was built 
in the fifteenth century. We saw where, under the high 
altar, Robert Bruce's heart is supposed to be buried ; 
also the tomb of Alexander II., and of the celebrated 
wizard, Michael Scott. Reference is made to the former 
in some lines of Sir Walter Scott's in the " Lay of the Last 
Minstrel," which describes this Border country : 

They sat them down on a marble stone ; 
A Scottish monarch slept below. 

And then when Deloraine takes the book from the dead 
wizard's hand, it says 

He thought, as he took it, the dead man frowned. 
Most truly does Walter Scott say 

If thou wouldst view fair Melrose aright, 
Go visit it by the pale moonlight. 

It looks very ghostlike, and reminds me a little of 
Holyrood Chapel. We walked in the churchyard to look 
at the exterior of the Abbey, and then re-entered our 
carriages and drove through the densely crowded streets. 
Great enthusiasm and hearty affectionate loyalty. Many 
decorations. A number of people from Galashiels, and 
even from the North of England, had come into the 

( 56 ) 

town and swelled the crowd ; many also had spread 
themselves along the outskirts. We took the other side 
of the valley returning, and saw Galashiels, very prettily 
situated, a flourishing town famous for its tweeds and 
shawls ; the men are called the " braw lads of Gala 

Another twenty minutes or half-hour brought us to 
Abbotsford) the well-known residence of Sir Walter Scott. 
It lies low and looks rather gloomy. Mr. Hope Scott 
and Lady Victoria* (my god-daughter and sister to the 
present Duke of Norfolk) with their children, the young 
Duke of Norfolk, and some other relations, received us. 
Mr. Hope Scott married first Miss Lockhart, the last 
surviving grandchild of Sir Walter Scott, and she died 
leaving only one daughter, a pretty girl of eleven, to 
whom this place will go, and who is the only surviving 
descendant of Sir Walter. They showed us the part of 
the house in which Sir Walter lived, and all his rooms 
his drawing-room with the same furniture and carpet, the 
library where we saw his MS. of " Ivanhoe," and several 
others of his novels and poems in a beautiful hand- 
writing with hardly any erasures, and other relics which 
Sir Walter had himself collected. Then his study, a 
small dark room, with a little turret in which is a bust in 
bronze, done from a cast taken after death, of Sir Walter. 
In the study we saw his journal, in which Mr. Hope 
Scott asked me to write my name (which I felt it to be a 
presumption in me to do), as also the others. 

We went through some passages into two or three] 
rooms where were collected fine specimens of old armour, 
etc., and where in a glass case are Sir Walter's last 
clothes. We ended by going into the dining-room, in 
which Sir Walter Scott died, where we took tea. . . . 
* She died in 1870. 

( 57 ) 

We left at twenty minutes to seven very late. It 
rained a little, but soon ceased. We recrossed the 
Tweed, and went by Gattonside to Leaderfoot Bridge. 
Here we were met by the Berwickshire Volunteers, 
commanded by Lord Binning (Lord Haddington's son), 
who as Deputy Lieutenant rode a long way with us. 
Here was a steep hill, and the road surrounded by trees. 
We passed soon after through Gladswood, the property 
of Mr. Meiklam, at whose house-door we stopped, and 
he and Mrs. Meiklam were presented, and their daughter 
gave me a nosegay. Just after this we entered Berwick- 
shire. Changing horses and leaving this place, going 
over Gateheugh) we came upon a splendid view, over- 
looking a great extent of country, with a glen deep 
below the road, richly wooded, the river at the bottom, 
and hills in the distance ; but unfortunately the " gloam- 
ing"* was already commencing at least, the sun was 
gone down, and the evening was grey and dull, though 
very mild. We passed Bemersyde, which is eventually 
to belong to Alfred's Equerry, Mr. Haig,f and through 
the village of Mertoun, behind the park ; and it was 
striking to see the good feeling shown by the people, 
who neither displayed any decorations nor cheered, 
though they were out and bowed, as their excellent 
master, Lord Polwarth, was lying dead in his house. 

It was nearly dark by this time, but we got well and 
safely home by ten minutes to nine. The Duke of 
Buccleuch rode with us some way beyond Gladswood. 
We did not come through Kelso on our way back. In 
passing Mertoun we left the old tower of Smailholm to 
the left, the scene of the " Eve of St. John." We only 
sat down to dinner at half-past nine, and I own I was 

* The Scotch word for " twilight." 
f He succeeded to the property in 1878. 

( 5S ) 

very tired. The Duke of Buccleuch was only able to 
come when dinner was half over. Besides him the 
Duke and Duchess of Roxburghe, Lord Bowmont, Lady 
Charles Ker, and Mr. Suttie made the party at dinner. 
Lady Susan was prevented by indisposition from being 
there. Nobody could be kinder, or more discreet, or 
more anxious that I should be undisturbed when at 
home, than the Duke and Duchess. I only stopped a 
few minutes downstairs after dinner, and then went up 
to my room, but it was then nearly eleven. The others 
went into the drawing-room to meet some of the 

Friday, August 23. 
A dull morning, very close, with a little inclination 
to rain, though only for a short time. Breakfast as 
yesterday. At twenty minutes to eleven we started : I 
with our daughters and the Duchess ; Christian with 
dear Beatrice, the Duke of Marlborough (the Minister in 
attendance), and Lady Susan Melville, in the second 
carriage ; and the Duke of Roxburghe, Lord Charles 
Fitz-Roy, Sir Thomas Biddulph, in the third, with 
Colonel Gordon and Dr. Jenner on the box.* We 
proceeded through Kelso, which was very full, and the 
people most loyal ; by the village of Heiton, prettily 
decorated with an arch (two young girls dressed in white 
threw nosegays), and up the rivers Teviot and fed, which 
flow through charming valleys. The town of Jedburgh is 
very prettily situated, and is about the same size as Kelso, 
only without its large shops. It is, however, the capital 
of the county. It was very crowded, and very prettily 
decorated. The town is full of historical recollections. 

* Brown and the sergeant footman, Collins, were (as usual) on 
the seat behind my carriage. 

( 59 ) 

King Malcolm IV. died there ; William the Lion and 
Alexander II. resided there ; Alexander III. married his 
second wife, Joletta, daughter of the Comte de Dreux, 
there ; and Queen Mary was the last sovereign who 
came to administer severe justice. The Duchess pointed 
out to me a house up a side street in the town where 
Queen Mary had lived and been ill with fever. In the 
square an address was presented, just as at Kelso, and 
then we went on down a steep hill, having a very good 
view of the old Abbey, as curious in its way as Melrose, 
and also founded by David I. There is a very fine 
ruined abbey in Kelso also. 

There were four pretty triumphal arches; one with 
two very well chosen inscriptions, viz., on one side 
" Freedom makes all men to have lyking," and on the 
other side " The love of all thy people comfort thee." 

We went on through a beautiful wooded valley up 
in the bank of which, in the red stone, are caves 
in which the Covenanters were hid. We passed Lord 
Cranstoun's place, Crailing, and then turned, and close 
before the town we turned into Jed Forest up an inter- 
minable hill, which was very trying to the horses and the 
postilions and returning through the grounds of Hart- 
rigge, the late Lord Campbell's, now occupied by a Mr. 

We then returned by the same road we came, pass- 
ing Kirkbank, belonging to the Duke of Buccleuch, 
where his late brother, Lord John Scott, used to live. 
Here the horses were watered. We stopped for a few 
minutes, and the Duke of Buccleuch, who had ridden 
with us the greater part of the way, into JedburgJi and 
back to this place, took leave. 

We only got home near three o'clock. We lunched 
at once, and then I rested. Only at half-past six did I 

( 60 ) 

go out with Lenchen and the good Duchess, and walked 
with them to the flower-garden, where, as it began to 
rain, we took tea in the small room there. Lenchen 
walked back with the Duchess, who returned to me, and 
I sat out a little while with her, and then walked back to 
the house. It was a very oppressive evening. 

At half-past eight we dined. The Duke and Duchess, 
Mr. and Lady Charlotte Russell, and Lord Charles Kei 
dined. Went upstairs and wrote. At ten minutes ta 
eleven we left Floors, where I had been most kindly re-< 
ceived, and had been very comfortable and enjoyed all 
I saw, and felt much all the kindness of high and low, 
The carriages were open, and the night very warm and 
starlight. There were lamps all along the drive in the 
Park; the bridge was illuminated, and so was the whole 
town, through which we went at a foot's pace. It was 
densely crowded, the square especially, and the people 
very enthusiastic. The dear Duchess went with us to th( 
station, whither the Duke and his sons had preceded ui 
with the others. It was a very pretty sight. The Fr% 
Kirk, a pretty building, was lit up with red light, whict 
almost gave it the appearance of being on fire. We tool 
leave of the dear Duchess and the Duke, got into ou 
railway carriage, and started at once. 

Saturday, August 24. 

We passed through Edinburgh. At eight A.M. we wer 
at Ballater. Some coffee and tea were handed in to us 
before we left the train and got into our carriages. 

A fine and very mild morning, the heather hardly ouu| 
but all very green; and at ten minutes to nine we were at 
our dear Balmoral, 



I Tuesday, September 24, 1867. 

A bright morning, but a fearful gale blowing. The 
maids, Emilie and Annie and Lady Churchill's maid, 
; with Ross and the luggage, started at a little past seven. 

Breakfasted at a quarter past nine ; and at ten, taking 
! leave of Lenchen, darling Beatrice, and the boys, and 
iChristian, started with Louise and Jane Churchill Brown, 
as usual, on the box. Sir Thomas Biddulph had gone on 
at eight. We drove up by Alt Craichie on to Gairnshiel, 
and anything like the wind I cannot describe. It blew 
through everything. Just beyond Gairnshiel we took 
another change of my own horses, which took us up that 
very steep hill called GlaschoiL Here we met the luggage 
with Blake,* which had stuck completely, but was going 
on with the help of four cart or farm horses, and then we 
i went on by Tornahoish and Cock Brigg, where we crossed 
ithe Don. At the small inn at the foot of the hill, called 
'Bridge End, we found the maids' carriage halting. They 
were waiting for the luggage, but we sent them on. Our 
postilions next took a wrong road, and we had to get out 
no enable them to turn. Then came a very steep hill, the 
'beginning of very wild and really grand scenery. Louise 
and Jane Churchill walked up to the top of this hill, and 

* A footman, now one of the Pages of the Presence. 

then we went down another very steep one, seeing a fear- 
fully long ascent before us. We changed horses, and took 
a pair of post-horses here. Steep green hills with a deep 
ravine on our left as we went up, and then down again, 
this fearful hill surely three miles in length called Lecht. 
At the bottom we entered a glen, or rather pass, very wild, 
and the road extremely bad, with rapid turnings. Near 
this there are iron mines belonging to the Duke of Rich- 
mond. Here we met a drove of very fine Highland cattle 
grazing. Turning out of this glen we came into much 
more cultivated land with farms and trees, skirted by hills 
in the distance all very clear, as the views had been all 
along. By half-past one we came close by Tomintoul, 
which lies very prettily amongst the trees, hills, and fields ; 
then leaving it to our left, we went on about a mile and a 
half beyond the town ; and here by the roadside, on some 
grass below a heathery bank, at about a quarter-past two, 
we took our luncheon, and walked a little. The Duke 
of Richmond's keeper, Lindsay by name, joined us here 
and rode before us. We changed horses (again a pair) 
and drove on, entering Glen Livet through the small vil- 
lage of Knockandhu Blairfindy Castle on the left, just 
behind the celebrated Glenlivet Distillery. We drove on 
six miles ; pretty country all along, distant high hills and 
richly cultivated land, with houses and cottages dotted 
about. At Tomnavoulin, a farm, not far from a bridge, 
we met Sir Thomas Biddulph (who had driven on in a 
dogcart) and our ponies. Though the wind had gone 
down a good deal, there was quite enough to make it 
disagreeable and fatiguing, and so we decided to drive, 
and Sir Thomas said he would ride across with the ponies 
and meet the Duke, while his head keeper was to come 
on the box with Brown and show us the way (Grant did 
not go with us this time). We drove on for an hour and 

( 63 ) 

inore, having entered Glen Rinnes shortly after Tomna- 
widin, with the hills of Ben Rinnes on the left. There 
5(rere fine large fields of turnips, pretty hills and dales, 
with wood, and distant high hills, but nothing grand. 
The day became duller, and the mist hung over the hills ; 
and just as we sat down by the roadside on a heathery 
bank, where there is a very pretty view of Gknlivet, to take 
Our tea, it began to rain, and continued doing so for the 
remainder of the evening. Lindsay, the head keeper, 
fetched a kettle of boiling water from a neighbouring farm- 
house. About two miles beyond this we came through 
Dufftown a small place with a long steep street, very 
like Grantown and then turned abruptly to the right 
past Auchindoun, leaving a pretty glen to the left. Three 
miles more brought us to a lodge and gate, which was 
the entrance of Glenfiddich. Here you go quite into the 
hills. The glen is very narrow, with the Fiddich flowing 
below, green hills rising on either side with birch trees grow- 
ing on them, much like at Inchrory, only narrower. We saw. 
deer on the tops of the hills close by. The carriage-road 
a very good one winds along for nearly three miles, 
when you come suddenly upon the lodge, the position of 
which reminds me very much of Corn Dawn* only that 
the glen is narrower and the hills just round it steeper. 
It is along shooting lodge, covering a good deal of ground, 
but only one story high. We reached it at half-past six, 
and it was nearly dark. Sir Thomas received us, but he 
had missed the Duke ! A message had, however, at once 
been sent after him. On entering the house there is one 
long, low passage, at the end of which, with three windows, 
taking in the whole of each side and looking three differ- 
ent ways, is the drawing-room, where tea was prepared. 
We went along the passage to our rooms, which were all 
* Near Balmoral, not far from Loch Bulig, 

( 64 ) 

in a row. Another long passage, a little beyond the hall 
door, went the other way at right angles with the first, 
and along that were offices and servants' bedrooms. Next 
to the drawing-room came the dining-room, then Sir 
Thomas Biddulph's room, then the Duke's, then Brown's 
and Ross's (in one), then Louise's, then mine, thenEmilie's 
and Annie's (in one), then, a little further back, Jane 
Churchill's and her maid's all very comfortably and 
conveniently together. But though our maids had arrived, 
not a bit of luggage. We waited and waited till dinner- 
time, but nothing came. So we ladies (for Sir Thomas 
had wisely brought some things with him) had to go to 
dinner in our riding-skirts, and just as we were. I, having 
no cap, had to put on a black lace veil of Emilie's, which 
she arranged as a coiffure. I had been writing and resting 
before dinner. The Duke (who remained at Glenfiddicli) 
and Sir Thomas dined with us ladies. 

None of the maids or servants had any change of 
clothing. Dinner over, I went with Louise and Jane to 
the drawing-room, which was given me as my sitting- 
room, and Jane read. While at dinner at half- past nine, 
Ross told us that Blake, the footman, had arrived with 
some of the smaller things, but none of the most neces- 
sary no clothes, etc. The break with the luggage had 
finally broken down at Tomintonl; from thence Blake 
had gone with a cart to Dufftown, where he had got a small 
break, and brought the light things on, but the heavier 
luggage was coming in a cart, and they hoped would be 
here by twelve o'clock. At first it seemed as if no horses 
were to be had, and it was only with the greatest difficulty 
that some were at last obtained. Louise and Jane 
Churchill left me at near eleven o'clock. 

I sat up writing and waiting for this luggage. A man 
was sent out on a pony with a lantern in search of it, and 

remained writing till a quarter-past twelve, when, 
feeling very tired, I lay down on the sofa, and Brown 
(who was indefatigable) went out himself to look for it. 
At one, he came back, saying nothing was to be seen or 
heard of this luckless luggage, and urged my going to 
bed. My maids had unfortunately not thought of bring- 
ing anything with them, and I disliked the idea of going to 
bed without any of the necessary toilette. However, some 
arrangements were made which were very uncomfortable; 
and after two I got into bed, but had very little sleep 
at first; finally fatigue got the better of discomfort, and 
after three I fell asleep. 

Wednesday, September 25. 

Slept soundly till half-past seven, and heard that the 
luggage had only arrived at half-past four in the morning. 
Breakfasted with Louise, who made my coffee beautifully 
with Brown, who waited at breakfast, Ross coming in and 
out with what had to be carried. It rained soon after 
I got up, and continued raining till near eleven. I read 
and wrote, etc. At half-past eleven, it having cleared, I 
rode up the small narrow glen, down which flows a 
" burnie " (called the Garden Burn\ the banks covered 
with fern and juniper, heather and birch, etc., past the 
kitchen-garden. Louise walked with me. Went up 
nearly to the top and walked down it again, then on to 
the stables, which are at a small distance from the house, 
where I saw an old underkeeper, P. Stewart by name, 
i seventy-four years old, with a Peninsular and Waterloo 
medal, who had been in the pand Highlanders, and was 
a great favourite of the late Duke's. Home by twenty 
minutes to one. The day became very fine and warm. 
Lunched in my own room with Louise at the same small 


( 66 ) 

table at which we had breakfasted, Ross and the Duke's 
piper playing outside the window. 

After luncheon rode (on Sultan, as this morning) with 
Louise and Jane Churchill, the Duke walking (and Jane 
also part of the way), down to the end of Glenfiddicli; 
turning then to the left for Bridgehaugh (a ford), and 
going on round the hill of Ben Main, We first went 
along the road and then on the heather " squinting " the 
hill hard and good ground, but disagreeable from the 
heather being so deep that you did not see where you 
were going the Duke's forester leading the way, and so 
fast that Brown led me on at his full speed, and we dis- 
tanced the others entirely. At five we got to the edge 
of a small ravine, from whence we had a fine view of the 
old ruined castle of Achendown, which formerly belonged 
to the old Lords Huntly. Here we took our tea, and 
then rode home by another and a shorter way not a bad 
road, but on the steeper side of the hill, and quite on the 
slant, which is not agreeable. We came down at the 
ford, and rode back as we went out, getting home at 
seven. A very fine evening. It was very nearly dark 
when we reached home. I was very tired ; I am no 
longer equal to much fatigue. 

Thursday, September 26. 

Slept very well and was much rested. At half-past 
twelve I started with Louise on ponies (I on Sultan), and 
Jane Churchill, the Duke of Richmond, and Sir Thomas 
walking, rode past the stables on a good road, and then 
turned to the right and went up Glenfiddich for about 
four miles. The scenery is not grand, but pretty; an 
open valley with green and not very high hills, some 
birches, and a great deal of fern and juniper. After 
about three miles the glen narrows and is extremely 
pretty; a narrow steep path overhanging a burn leads to 

( 67 ) 

a cave, which the Duke said went a long way under the 
hill. It is called the Elf House. There is a small space 
of level ground, and a sort of seat arranged with stones, 
on which Louise and I sat; and here we all lunched, and 
then tried to sketch. But I could make nothing of the 
cave, and therefore scrambled up part of the hill with 
great trouble, and tried again but equally unsuccessfully, 
and had to be helped down, as I had been helped up, by 
Brown. We were here nearly an hour, and then, after 
walking down the steep path, we got on our ponies and 
rode up to the left, another very steep and narrow path, 
for a short while on the brink of a steep high bank with 
the Fiddich below. We emerged from this ravine and 
came upon moors in the hills (the whole of this is " the 
forest "), and rode on a mile and a half till near the head 
of the Livet on the right of the Sowie, a high, bare, 
heathery, mossy hill ; Cairn-ta-Bruar to the left. Here 
we had a fine view of Ben Aven and Ben-na-Bourd, and 
this was the very way we should have ridden from 
Tomnavoulin. We had a slight sprinkling of rain, but 
very little at this time. We saw eight stags together at a 
distance. Oh! had dearest Albert been here with his 
rifle! We rode on and back till we came to a sheltered 
place near the burnside, about one mile and three- 
quarters from Glenfiddich Lodge, where one of the Duke's 
keepers had prepared a fire and got a kettle boiling, and 
here we took our tea. Afterwards I sketched, but we 
were surrounded by a perfect cloud of midges which bit 
me dreadfully. The gentlemen left us, after tea, and 
walked home. I walked a little while, and then rode 
back by a quarter to seven. A beautiful mild evening, 
the sky a lovely colour. Dear good Sharp* was with us 
and out each day, and so affectionate. 

* A favourite collie of mine. 

F 2 

( 68 ) 

A. Thomson, S. Forbes, Kennedy, and J. Stewart, the 
latter with the ponies, as well as the Duke's forester 
Lindsay, were out with us. Dinner as yesterday. Jane 
Churchill finished reading " Pride and Prejudice " to us 
after dinner. A very clear starlight night. 

( 69 ) 

\\c sat down and took our luncheon, and sketched. Sir 
Thomas drove on, and we saw him again near the top of 
the hills, while we began the first very steep ascent, which 
seemed almost beyond the horses' power ; but though only 
a pair, they got us up admirably. Brown walked by the 
carriage all the time, being very anxious about the road. 
Then down ever so long, having a splendid view of the 
hills the road being dreadfully rough and bad besides 
then up again, and when it came to that very steep winding 
liill going down to Bridge End> we got out and walked to 
the bottom and across the ford at Tornahoish over a foot- 
bridge. The view here was splendid, all the hills rising 
around, with the old Castle of Corgarff, and the river Don 
with the valley of the Don-side in the foreground. 

Here we found our horses and drove on. It was 
raining at this time (about four), and it rained several 
times during the evening. We drove on, and after we 
passed Tornahoish two or three miles, and had got up the 
long hill, we found a sort of hole in the bank (such as are 
often met with where gravel and stones have been taken 
out), where we took our tea. The kettle took some time 
boiling, as we had only cold water from the burn. When 
we go out only for the afternoon we take two bottles filled 
with hot water, which saves much time. Poor Louise had 
been suffering from toothache all the time. We got 
safely home at ten minutes past seven o'clock. 


Tuesday, October 15, 1867. 

Our blessed Engagement Day ! A dear and sacred 
day already twenty eight years ago. How I ever bless . 
it ! A wet morning most annoying and provoking ! 

At a quarter-past eleven in this distressing rain, which 
twice had given hopes of ceasing, I, with all the family 
and Janie Ely, drove to the spot, just above Middhtoris 
Lodge, where were assembled all the servants and tenants, 
and the detachment of the 93rd Highlanders drawn up 
opposite, just behind the Statue. I and the children 
stood just in front of the Statue, which was covered. A 
verse of the looth Psalm was sung, and Mr. Taylor then 
stepped forward and offered up a beautiful prayer (in 
pelting rain at that moment), after which the order was 
given to uncover the Statue ; but (as happened at Aber- 
deen) the covering caught, and it was a little while before it 
could be loosened from the shoulder. 

The soldiers presented arms, and the pipes played, as 
we gazed on the dear noble figure of my beloved one, who 
used to be with us here in the prime of beauty, goodness, 
and strength. 

Then Dr. Robertson stepped forward, and made a 
very pretty little speech in the name of the servants and 

tenants, thanking me for the gift of the Statue. He 
spoke remarkably well. This was followed by the soldiers 
firing a. feu dejoie ; then all cheered, and the whole con- 
cluded by (l God save the Queen " being sung extremely 


Thursday, October i, 1868. 

At nearly four o'clock left with Louise and Jane 
Churchill for the Glassalt Shiel. It was a beautiful even- 
ing, clear and frosty. We drove by Birkhall and the Linn 
of Muich, where we stopped to take tea ; we had just 
finished when Arthur arrived from Ballater with Grant, 
who had gone to meet him there. He had travelled straight 
from Geneva, and looked rather tired, having besides 
had a bad passage. After walking a little we drove on, 
Arthur getting into the carriage with us, and Grant going 
with Brown on the box. We arrived at half-past six at 
the Glassalt Shiel, which looked so cheerful and comfort- 
able, all lit up, and the rooms so cozy and nice. There 
is a wonderful deal of room in the compact little house. 
A good staircase (the only one) leads to the upper floor, 
where are the rooms for Louise, Jane Churchill, her maid, 
and Arthur, in one passage ; out of this there is another, 
where are three rooms for Brown, the cook, and another 
servant ; in one of these Grant and Ross slept, and C. 
Thomson * in the other. Below are my sitting-room, bed- 

* One of eight brothers (one died in 1865), three of whom, be- 
sides himself, are in my service Andrew (the eldest), a livery porter ; 
John, who has charge of the roads on my property at Balmoral, and 

( 73 ) 

room, and my maids' room ; and on the other side of our 
little hall the dining-room : then a nice kitchen, small 
steward's room, store-closet, and another small room 
where two menservants slept. The small passage near 
my bedroom shuts off the rest, and makes it quite private 
and quiet. Good stables, and the keeper's cottage, where 
our gillies sleep, just outside at the back. 

We dined at about half-past eight in the small dining- 
room. This over, after waiting for a little while in my 
sitting-room, Brown came to say all the servants were 
ready for the house-warming, and at twenty minutes to 
ten we went into the little dining-room, which had been 
cleared, and where all the servants were assembled, viz., 
my second dresser, * C. Wilmore, Brown, Grant, Ross 
(who played), Hollis (the cook), Lady Churchill's maid, 
Maxted, C. and A. Thomson, Blake (the footman), the 
two housemaids, Kennedy, J. Stewart (the stableman), 
and the policeman (who only comes to do duty outside 
at night). We made nineteen altogether. Five animated 
reels were danced, in which all (but myself) joined. 
After the first reel " whisky-toddy " was brought round 
for every one, and Brown begged I would drink to the 
"fire-kindling." Then Grant made a little speech, with 
an allusion to the wild place we were in, and concluding 
with a wish " that our Royal Mistress, our good Queen," 
should "live long." This was followed by cheers given 
out by Ross in regular Highland style, and all drank my 

Tom, the youngest of the family. Charlie entered my service in 
1 86 1 in the stables, became a footman a year or two later, and is 
now (1883), for a year past, Page of the Presence. There are 
three sisters. They are an excellent family, and their father is 
the highly respected postmaster at Crathie. One sister married 
Donald Stewart, the head keeper, and another brother is in the 
service of the Duke of Edinburgh. 

* She was in my service for thirteen years, and left in 1881. 

( 74 ) 

health. The merry pretty little ball ended at a quarter- 
past eleven. The men, however, went on singing in the 
steward's room for some time, and all were very happy, 
but I heard nothing, as the little passage near my bed- 
room shuts everything off. 

Sad thoughts filled my heart both before dinner and 
when I was alone and retired to rest. I thought of the 
happy past and my darling husband, whom I fancied I 
must see, and who always wished to build here, in this 
favourite wild spot, quite in amidst the hills. At Altna- 
giuthasach I could not have lived again now alone. It 
is far better to have built a totally new house ; but then 
the sad thought struck me that it was the first Widow's 
house, not built by him or hallowed by his memory. But 
I am sure his blessing does rest on it, and on those who 
live in it. 

( 75 


Thursday, October 21. 

At a quarter to twelve I drove off with Louise and 
Leopold in the waggonette up to near the " Bush " (the 
residence of William Brown,* the farmer) to see them 
'juice the sheep." This is a practice pursued all over 
the Highlands before the sheep are sent down to the low 
country for the winter. It is done to preserve the wool. 
Not far from the burnside, where there are a few hillocks, 
was a pen in which the sheep were placed, and then, just 
outside it, a large sort of trough filled with liquid tobacco 
and soap, and into this the sheep were dipped one after 
the other ; one man (James Brown,f my shepherd, the 
elder brother, who came up on purpose to help) took the 
sheep one by one out of the pen and turned them on 
their backs ; and then William and he, holding them by 
their legs, dipped them well in, after which they were let 
into another pen into which this trough opened, and here 
they had to remain to dry. To the left, a little lower 
down, was a cauldron boiling over a fire and containing 
the tobacco with water and soap ; this was then emptied 
into a tub, from which it was transferred into the trough. 
A very rosy-faced lassie, with a plaid over her head, was 

* Brown's fourth brother, 
f Brown's eldest brother. 

( 76 ) 

superintending this part of the work, and helped to fetch 
the water from the burn, while children and many collie 
dogs were grouped about, and several men and shepherds 
were helping. It was a very curious and picturesque 

( 77 ) 


Sunday, October 24. 

At a quarter to four I drove, with Louise, Beatrice, 
and Lady Ely, to John Thomson the wood forester's 
house for the christening of their child, three weeks old. 
Here, in their little sitting-room, in front of the window, 
stood a table covered with a white cloth, on which was 
placed a basin with water, a bible, and a paper with the 
certificate of the child's birth. 

We stood on one side, and John Thomson m his 
Highland dress next the minister, who was opposite me 
at the head of the table. Barbara, his wife, stood next 
to him, with the baby in her arms, and then the old 
Thomsons and their unmarried daughter, the Donald 
Stewarts, Grants, and Victoria, Morgan and sister, and 

Dr. Taylor (who wore his gown) then began with an 
address and prayer, giving thanks " for a living mother 
and a living child," after which followed another prayer; 
he then read a few passages from Scripture, after which 
came the usual questions which he addressed to the 
father, and to which he bowed assent. Then the minister 
told him "Present your child for baptism." After this 
the father took the child and held it while the minister 

baptized it, sprinkling it with water, but not making the sign 
of the cross, saying first to those present : " The child's 
name is Victoria ; " and then to the child : 

Victoria, I baptize thee in the name of the Father, and 
of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost, One God blessed for 
ever. Amen. 

The Lord bless thee and keep thee ! The Lord make 
His face to shine upon thee and be gracious unto thee ! 
The Lord lift up His countenance upon thee and give thee 
peace ! 

The service was concluded with another short prayer 
and the usual blessing. I thought it most appropriate, 
touching, and impressive. I gave my present (a silver 
mug) to the father, kissed the little baby, and then we all 
drank to its health and that of its mother in whisky, which 
was handed round with cakes. It was all so nicely done, 
so simply, and yet with such dignity. 

79 ) 


On Monday, November i, I drove down at a quarter 
to four with Louise, Beatrice, Leopold (who was on the 
box with Brown), and Lady Ely, to the Bush (William 
Brown's) to witness the christening of his first child, just 
a week old, which was to be called Albert. The service 
was nearly the same, only two instead of three prayers, and 
the young mother with the child, who was only a week 
old, was seated by the fire, looking very nice, with the 
baby on her lap. The old mother, Mrs. Brown, in her 
white mutch, the three brothers, and a few neighbours 
stood round the room. I gave my present. It was a 
touching and impressive sight to see the young father 
holding his child with an expression of so much devotion 
and earnestness. On this occasion a dinner was given 
by the father after we left, in which Dr. Taylor took part. 


On Sunday, August 22, 1869, I went to see old Mrs. 
Grant, whom I was grieved to see sitting in her chair 
supported by pillows, and her poor feet raised upon 
cushions, very much altered in her face, and, I fear, dying 
of dropsy. 

On August 26 I again saw her, and gave her a shawl 
and a pair of socks, and found the poor old soul in bed, 
looking very weak and very ill, but bowing her head and 
thanking me in her usual way. I took her hand and 
held it. 

On the 27th she died. 

On the 28th I stopped at her cottage and went in with 
Louise and Leopold. We found all so clean and tidy, but 
all so silent. Mrs. Gordon, her daughter, was there, 
having arrived just in time to spend the last evening and 
night with her ; and then she lifted the sheet, and there 
the poor old woman, whom we had known and seen from 
the first here these twenty- one years, lay on a bier in her 
shroud, but with her usual cap on, peaceful and little 
altered, her dark skin taking away from the usual terrible 
pallor of death. She had on the socks I gave her the day 
before yesterday. She was in her eighty-ninth year, 


Wednesday, September i, 1869. 

We got up at half-past seven, breakfasted at eight, and at 
lalf-past eight left Balmoral with Louise, Beatrice, and 
[ane Churchill (Brown as always, unless I mention to the 
:ontrary, on the box), for Ballater. A high and rather 
:old wind, but very bright sun, dreadfully dusty. Colonel 
Ponsonby met us at the railway station. Emilie Dittweiler 
ind Annie Macdonald, Ocklee (for the two girls), Jane 
Zhurchill's maid, Charlie Thomson, and the footman 
Cannon, went with us : Blake, Spong with the luggage, A. 
Fhomson, with Sharp (my faithful collie dog), and Annie 
~k>rdon (housemaid), Kennedy, Arthur Grant, and Hiley 
'the groom) with the ponies, all went yesterday, and three 
:ooks came from London. We had a saloon carriage, but 
not my own. It grew hot in the railway train. We stopped 
it Aberdeen and the Bridge, of Dun, where Jane Churchill 
ot into our carriage, and had luncheon with us ; but we 
:ould have no one to help to pack and unpack it, which 
.s now so comfortably arranged in my own railway carriage 
where there is a communication with the attendants. 

Stopping a moment at Cupar- Angus, we passed through 
Perth, and had another short halt at Dunblane, where the 
people crowded very much. Here we got a view of the 


( S2 ) 

old Cathedral, and turned off to Callander, which we 
reached at a quarter-past three. There was a very well- 
behaved crowd at the quiet station. Mr. and Lady 
Emily Macnaghten,* to whose house (which they had 
most kindly lent us) we were going, and Sir Malcolm and 
Lady Helen MacGregor (he is Miss MacGregor's nephew, 
she Lady Emily Macnaghten's niece), received us there. 
Their little girl gave me a nosegay. We at once got into 
our celebrated sociable, which has been to the top of the 
Furca in Switzerland, etc., and had been sent on before, 
Colonel Ponsonby and Brown going on the box. We 
drove off at once with post-horses through the small town 
of Callander, which consists of one long street with very 
few shops, and few good houses, but many poor ones. 
Poor Kanne f (who was to have managed everything, but 
had fallen ill) was still laid up there. We drove on, and, 
after about three-quarters of a mile's drive, came to Loch 
Vennachar, a fine lake about four miles long, with Hen 
Venue and other high and beautiful mountains rising behind 
and around it. The road is thickly wooded with oak, birch, 
beech, mountain-ash, etc. The house stands extremely 
well on a high eminence, overlooking the loch and sur- 
rounded by trees, and you drive up through evergreens 
and trees of all kinds. Half an hour brought us to the 
door of the house, Invertrossaehs, which is small and 
comfortable. At the entrance is a nice little hall in which 
there is a small billiard table ; to the left, beyond that, a 
very nice well-sized dining-room with one large window. 
To the right of the hall is the drawing-room, very much 
like the one at Invermark (Lord Dalhousie's) ; altogether 

* She died in 1874. 

f .My Director of Continental journeys, who had been ser 
look at the house and to inake arrangements for my reception. 

the house is in that style, but larger. The staircase is 
almost opposite the hall-door, and there is a narrow pas- 
sage which goes on to the left and right, along which are 
Louise's, Baby's (Beatrice's), my sitting-room (a snug little 
room), and my bedroom (very good size) ; and out of 
that, two little rooms which I use as dressing- and bath- 
rooms, and Emilie Dittweiler's. Further on, round a 
corner as it were, beyond Louise's, are Lady Churchill's, 
her maid's, and Colonel Ponsonby's rooms, all very fair- 
sized and comfortable. Close to my dressing-rooms is a 
staircase which goes upstairs to where Brown and our 
other people live. The rooms are very comfortably and 
simply furnished, and they have put down new carpets 
everywhere. In the absence of poor Kanne, whom we 
are so sorry for, Jungbluth, the cook, acts as steward, 
and showed us over the rooms. 

We took tea and rested a little, and at twenty minutes 
to six drove out with the two girls (sweet Beatrice very 
happy and very good, the first time she had been without 
a governess) and Lady Churchill. We drove along the 
loch, which has always to be done, as there is no road on 
the Invertrossachs side further than Invertrossaehs itself, 
and crossed over the bridge at Coilantogleford celebrated 
in the " Lady of the Lake," then to the right down a 
steep hill and over the bridge \sy'Jilmako& where there 
are a few cottages and a turnpike, on through the Pass oj 
Leny, which is now (like every other burn and river) 
nearly dry, overhung by beautiful trees with very grand 
hills, reminding me much of Switzerland from their 
greenness, the rugged rocks, and the great amount of wood 
which grows at their base and a good way up. It reminded 
Louise and me very much of Pilatus with its meadows 
and fine trees on the way to Hergessvyl. We went as far 

( 84 ) 

as the beginning of Loch Lubnaig, a very fine wild, grand- 
looking loch ; turning there and going back the same 
way. The view of Loch Vennachar, with the beautiful 
deep blue of Ben Venue and the other hills, was lovely. 
We came in at half-past seven. 

Darling Beatrice took her supper on coming in, but 
she came and sat with us while we were at dinner for a 
short while. Only four at dinner. We went out for a 
moment afterwards. Very mild and starlight. Louise 
went to bed. Jane read a little to me in the drawing-room, 
but I went upstairs soon, as I was tired. 

Thursday, September 2. 

A very fine, bright, warm morning. We decided to 
go on an expedition, but not to Loch Lomond, as we 
should have to start so early. Breakfasted in the 
drawing-room with Louise and Beatrice. Then writing, 
etc. At twenty minutes to twelve I started in the sociable 
with Louise, Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and Colonel 
Ponsonby and Brown on the box, and drove (excellent 
post-horses, always only a pair) to Callander, but turned 
to the right short of it, and went on some little way. On 
coming to the top of a hill we saw Ben Ledi, a splendid 
hill ; to the north Ben Voirlich, and to the east the 
heights of Uam Var, a pink heathery ridge of no great 
elevation ; and in the distance, rising up from the 
horizon, Dun Myat, and the Wallace Monument on the 
Abbey Craig, near Stirling. We went across a moor, and 
then soon passed Loch Ruskie, quite a small lake. The 
country about here is rather lowland, but as we proceeded 
it was extremely pretty, with very fine trees and corn- 
fields, and harvesting going on ; and soon after, descend- 
ing a hill, we came upon the Loch of " Menteith " (the 

( 85 ) 

only loch in Scotland which is ever called lake). It 
reminds one very much of Loch Kinnord near Ballater, 
and very low blue and pink hills rise in the distance. 
There are two or three islands in it ; in the large one, 
Inchmahome, you perceive amongst the thick woods the 
ruins of the ancient priory. Queen Mary lived there 
once, and there are monuments of the Mcnteiths to be 
seen on it. To the right we passed the ruin of Rednock 
Castle, and to the left the gates of the Park of Rednock, 
with very fine large trees, where Mr. Graham, the 
proprietor, was standing. We went on and passed the 
Clachan of Aberfoyle (renowned in Sir Walter Scott's 
" Rob Roy "), and here the splendid scenery begins 
high, rugged, and green hills (reminding me again of 
Pi/atus), very fine large trees and beautiful pink heather, 
interspersed with bracken, rocks, and underwood, in the 
most lovely profusion, and Ben Lomond towering up 
before us with its noble range. We went on perhaps a 
quarter of a mile, and, it being then two o'clock, we got 
out and lunched on the grass under an oak at the foot 
of Craig More. It was very hot, the sun stinging, but 
there were many light white clouds in the blue sky, which 
gave the most beautiful effects of light and shade on 
this marvellous colouring. After luncheon and walking 
about a little, not finding any good view to sketch, we 
got into the carriage (our horses had been changed), but 
had not gone above a few yards when we came upon 
Loch Ard, and a lovelier picture could not be seen. 
Ben Lomond, blue and yellow, rose above the lower 
hills, which were pink and purple with heather, and an 
isthmus of green trees in front dividing it from the rest 
of the loch. We got out and sketched. Only here and 
there, far between, were some poor little cottages with 
picturesque barefooted lasses and children to be seen. 

( 86 ) 

All speak Gaelic here. Louise and I sat sketching for 
half an hour, Beatrice running about merrily with Jane 
Churchill while we drew. We then drove on, and 
certainly one of the most lovely drives I can remember, 
along Loch Ard, a fine long loch, with trees of all kinds 
overhanging the road, heather making all pink ; bracken, 
rocks, high hills of such a fine shape, and trees growing 
up them as in Switzerland ; the road rough and bad, 
with very steep bits of hill (but the post-horses went 
remarkably well) overhanging the loch, which reminded 
me very much of the drive along the Lake Zitg in 
Switzerland. Altogether, the whole drive along Loch 
Ard, then by the very small Loch Dow and the fine 
Loch Chon, which is very long, was lovely. The heather 
in full bloom, and of the richest kind, some almost of a 
crimson colour, and growing in rich tufts along the road. 
One can see, by the mounds or heaps of stone, all along 
Loch Chon, where the Glasgow waterworks are carried, 
but they have not disfigured the landscape. 

Emerging from this road we came upon the Loch 
Lomond Road, having a fine view of Loch Arklet, on the 
banks of which Helen MacGregor is said to have been 
born. The scene of our drive to-day is all described in 
" Rob Roy." Loch Arklet lies like Loch Callater, only 
that the hills are higher and more pointed. Leaving 
this little loch to our left, in a few minutes we came 
upon Loch Katrine, which was seen in its greatest 
beauty in the fine evening light. Most lovely ! We 
stopped at Stronachlachar, a small inn where people stay 
for a night sometimes, and where they embark coming 
from Loch Lomond and vice versa. As the small steamer 
had not yet arrived, we had to wait for about a quarter 
of an. hour. But there was no crowd, no trouble or 
annoyance, and during the whole of our drive nothing 

could be quieter or more agreeable. Hardly a creature 
did we meet, and we passed merely a very few pretty 
gentlemen's places, or very poor cottages with simple 
women and barefooted long-haired lassies and children, 
quiet and unassuming old men and labourers. This 
solitude, the romance and wild loveliness of everything 
here, the absence of hotels and beggars, the independent 
simple people, who all speak Gaelic here, all make 
beloved Scotland the proudest, finest country in the 
world. Then there is that beautiful heather, which you 
do not see elsewhere. I prefer it greatly to Switzer- 
land^ magnificent and glorious as the scenery of that 
country is. 

It was about ten minutes past five when we went en 
board the very clean little steamer "Rob Roy" the 
very same we had been on under such different 
circumstances in 1859 on the i4th of October, in 
dreadful weather, thick mist and heavy rain, when my 
beloved Husband and I opened the Glasgow Water- 
works. We saw the spot and the cottage where we 

We took a turn and steamed a little way up the 
bay called Glen Gyle, where there is a splendid glen 
beautifully wooded, which is the country of the Mac- 
Gregors, and where there is a house which belonged to 
MacGregor of Glen Gyle, which, with the property, has 
been bought by a rich Glasgow innkeeper of the same 
clan. We turned and went on, and nothing could be 
more beautiful than the loch, wooded all along the 
banks. The rugged Ben Venue, so famed in the " Lady 
of the Lake " (which we had with us as well as several 
guide-books, of which we find Black's far the best), rises 
majestically on the southern side of the lake, and 
looking back you see the Alps of Arrochar^ which well 

( 38 ) 

deserve the name, for they are quite pointed and most 
beautiful ; their names are Ben Vean, Ben Voirlich, Ben 
JEtm, and Ben Crash. Next came the well-known 
''Silver Strand" ''Helen's Isle" which is most lovely, 
and the narrow creek so beautifully wooded below the 
splendid high hills, and the little wooden landing-place 
which I remembered so well ; and very melancholy and 
yet sweet were my feelings when I landed and found on 
the path some of the same white pebbles which my 
dearest Albert picked up and had made into a bracelet 
for me. I picked up and carried off a handful myself. 

We had taken our tea on board on deck. We now 
entered two hired carriages, the girls and I in the first, 
with Brown on the box, and Jane Churchill and Colonel 
Ponsonby in the second. The evening was lovely, and 
the lights and pink and golden sky as we drove through 
the beautiful Trossachs were glorious indeed 

So wondrous wild, the whole might seem 
The scenery of a fairy dream 

and along Loch Achray the setting sun behind Ben 
Venue, which rose above most gloriously, so beautifully 
described by Sir W. Scott : 

The western waves of ebbing day 
Rolled o'er the glen the level way. 
Each purple peak, each flinty spire 
Was bathed in floods of living fire. 

We passed the fine Trossachs Inn where Louise had 
stopped with Alice and Louis in 1865, and a lovely little 
church in a most picturesque position, and lastly the 
Brig of Turk. It is a long way round Loch Vennachar 

to Invertrossachs : you see the house for three-quarters of 
an hour before you can get to it. Home at eight. The 
drive back was lovely, for long after the sun had set the 
sky remained beautifully pink behind the dark blue hills. 
A most successful day. Dinner as yesterday. I felt very 

Friday, September 3. 

A very dull, dark thick morning, and the hills beyond 
Callander hardly visible. Still, no rain. Went up to my 
room and wrote a little, and at twelve took a walk in a 
very pretty wood quite close below the house, from several 
points of which there are beautiful views, but the atmo- 
sphere was too thick to see them to-day. . . . We lunched 
all together. ... At half-past three we started again 
(just as yesterday), and drove up the noble Pass of Leny, 
past Kilmahog, where a little boy tried to give me a nose- 
gay which was fixed to a pole, and in trying to catch it 
Colonel Ponsonby let it fall. The little boy screamed 
" Stop, stop ! " and ran in such an agony of disappoint- 
ment that I stopped the carriage, and took it from him to 
his mothers great delight. On our way we saw on a hill 
among woods Leny House (belonging to Mr. Buchanan 
Hamilton), where Sir W. Scott lived when he wrote " Rob 

We went along that truly beautiful Loch Lubnaig, 
driving along its windings like the Axenstrasse on the 
Lake of Lucerne, the high, jagged, and green hills rising 
precipitously from it. It is four miles long, and very 
romantic. There is a railway unfinished, only a single 
line, on the western side, and as it ran along the loch it 
again reminded me of the Axenstrasse at the points where 

( 90 ) 

it goes low near the water. The road leads under beau- 
tiful sycamore trees. We passed on the right a farmhouse 
called Ardhullary, where formerly the Abyssinian traveller 
Bruce used to live, and next entered Strathyre, a fine broad 
open strath, wooded and with cornfields, the heather on 
the hills quite pink. The village of Strathyre is composed 
of a row of a few peasants' houses, with very poor people, 
and a nice well-built little inn. A little way on again you 
come to a picturesque little inn called the King's House, 
covered with pretty creepers and convolvulus, and here 
you turn short to the left and go up Balquhidder, another 
most lovely glen, with a beautiful view of Loch Voil with 
its beautiful sweeping green hills, the Braes of Balquhidder, 
the strath itself very rich with its fine trees and cornfields, 
the small river Balvaig running through it. We drove 
about two miles, passing some pretty cottages covered 
with creepers like the inn I mentioned, and stopped out- 
side a neat-looking little village, fatKirkion of Balquhiddcr 
(twelve miles from Callander), composed of only a few 
cottages. We got out and walked up a steep knoll over 
hanging the road, on which, under a splendid plane tree 
(we passed some most beautiful limes just before), is the old 
kirk-yard with the ruins of the old church. We went at 
once to look at the tomb of Rob Roy a flat stone on 
which is carved a figure in a kilt, and next to it a stone 
where his wife is buried, and on which a sword is rudely 
carved.* His son's tomb is next to his, but looks far 
more modern. We went on to look at a very curious old 
font, and then at two or three other tombstones. On one 
of these were some verses, which Mr. Cameron, the 

* These stones are supposed to be very ancient, and carved 
centuries before they were adapted to their present use. 

schoolmaster, an intelligent young man, recited, and 
afterwards wrote out for me.* 

We afterwards went into the very pretty new church, 
which is close to the old ruin. Nothing can surpass the beauty 
of the position of this spot, for it overlooks Loch Voil and 
a glen, or rather mere ravine or corry, with a hill rising 
behind it. We walked down again and re-entered our 
carriage, driving back the same way, and passing about 
half a mile from the Ktrkton, on our road back, the pre- 
sent burial-place of the MacGregors (whose country this 
is, or, alas ! rather was), which is a chapel standing in a 
wood, the whole enclosed by a wall and iron gateway. 
We drove past the King's House a very short way, and 
then got out, scrambled up the hillside, sat down on a 
bank overhanging a burn, kindled a fire, and had our tea. 
This was on Lord Breadalbane's property. W T e got home 
from this very interesting and beautiful drive by a quarter- 

* The words of the inscription are : 



DIED 25 DECEMBER, l68o. 

HER AGE 25. 

Stones weep tho' eyes were dry ; 
Choicest flowers soonest die : 
Their sun oft sets at noon, 
Whose fruit is ripe in June. 
Then tears of joy be thine, 
Since earth must soon resign 
To God what is divine. 

Nasci est oegrotare, vivere est scepe mori, et mori est vivere 


( 92 ) 

past eight. The day had not been bright dark and 
dull, but quite clear enough to see everything in this truly 
beautiful country. 

Dinner as before. We always sit in the drawing-room, 
and Jane read out the newspaper to us. 

Saturday, September 4. 

Up by half-past seven, and breakfasting at a quarter 
to eight. Got on my pony Sultan * at nine, the others 
walking, and went through the wood to the loch's edge, 
where we three got into a small boat and were rowed 
across to the other side by the keeper and underkeeper, 
Brown sitting in the bow, Colonel Ponsonby and Jane 
Churchill going across in another very small boat rowed 
by one man. Here we got into our carriage as before. 
Dear Beatrice enjoys it all very much, and is so good and 

We drove on through the beautiful TrossacJls to Loch 
Katrine. It was a very dark thick morning; no distance 
to be seen at all, and Ben Venue very imperfectly. We 
embarked by ten o'clock on board the steamer "Rob 
Roy," and steamed off for Stronachlachar. No distant 
view was visible, and the colour of the sky was really 
that of a thick November fog. However, by the time we 
reached Stronachlachar, it was much lighter to the left, 
towards where we were going. 

Here we got into two hired carriages again, Jane and 
Colonel Ponsonby preceding us this time. We drove 
along Loch Arklet, a lovely drive with pink heathered 
hills to the right, and gradually the mist cleared off, and 
allowed us to see rugged peaks above and in front of us. 

* I rode him up to the top of the Righi (near Lucerne) 5,000 
feet high, in 1868. 

We met (as we had done from the first) several large 
coaches, but with only outside seats, full of tourists. 
This reminded me, as did the whole tour this day and on 
Thursday, of Switzerland and our expeditions there, 
especially now when we suddenly came upon Loch 
Lomond, and drove down a very steep hill to Inversnaid, 
where there is only one house (a small inn), and saw 
high mountains, looking shadowy in the mist (dry mist), 
rising abruptly from the loch. We went at once on 
board the fine steamer "Prince Consort" (a pleasant 
idea that that dear name should have carried his poor 
little wife, alas! a widow, and children, on their first sail 
on this beautiful lake which he went to see in 1847). 
She is a fine large vessel, a good deal larger than the 
" Winkelried " (in which we used to go on the Lake of 
Lucerne), with a fine large dining-cabin below, a very 
high upper deck, and a gallery underneath on which 
people can stand and smoke without incommoding the 
others above. The following people were on board: 
Mr. A. Smollett, late M.P., Mr. Wylie, factor to Sir I. 
Colquhoun, and Mr. Denny, the auditor, and Mr. Young, 
the secretary. 

We steamed southward, and for the first half nothing 
could be finer or more truly Alpine, reminding me much 
of the Lake of Lucerne; only it is longer Loch Lomond 
being twenty-two miles long. We kept close to the east 
shore, passing under Ben Lomond with its variously 
called shoulders Cruachan, Craig a Bochan, and Ptar- 
migan to Rowardennan pier, where there is a pretty 
little house rented from the Duke of Montrose (to whom 
half Loch Lomond belongs) by a Mr. Mair, a lovely spot 
from whence you can ascend Ben Lomond, which is 
3,192 feet high, and well wooded part of the way, 
with cornfields belo\v. After you pass this, where there 

( 9-!- ) 

are fine mountains on either side, though on the west 
shore not so high, the lake widens out, but the shores 
become much flatter and tamer (indeed to the east and 
south completely so); but here are all the beautifully 
wooded islands, to the number of twenty-four. Some of 
them are large; on Inchlonaig Island the yews are said to 
have been planted by Robert Bruce to encourage the 
people in the use of archery. Another, Inch Cailliach, 
is the ancient burial-place of the MacGregors. 

On the mainland we passed Comtek Hill, and could 
just see Buchanan House, the Duke of Montrose's, and 
to the right the island of Inch Murrin, on which the 
Duke has his deer preserve. The sun had come out 
soon after we went on board, and it was blowing quite 
fresh as we went against the wind. At two o'clock we 
stopped off Portnellan for luncheon, which we had 
brought with us and took below in the handsome large 
cabin, where fifty or sixty people, if not more, could 
easily dine. Colonel Ponsonby also lunched with us. 
. . . This over, we went to the end of the lake to 
Balloch, and here turned. It became very warm. To 
the left we passed some very pretty villas (castles they 
resembled) and places, amongst others Cameron (Mr. 
Smollett's), Arden (Sir J. Lumsden's, Lord Provost of 
Glasgow), Ross-Dhu (Sir J. Colquhoun's), the road to 
Glen Fruin, the islands of Inch Connachan, Inch Taranach, 
the point of Stob Gobhlach, Luss, a very prettily situated 
village, the mountain of Ben Dubh, and the ferry of 
Inveruglas, opposite Rowardennan. Then Tarbet, a small 
town, where dearest Albert landed in 1847, and here 
began the highest and finest mountains, with splendid 
passes, richly wooded, and the highest mountains rising 
behind. A glen leads across from Tarbet to Arrochar on 
Loch Long, and here you see that most singularly shaped 

( 95 ) 

hill called the Cobbler, and a little further on the splendid 
Alps of Arrochar, All this and the way in which the 
hills run into the lake reminded me so much of the 
Nasen on the Lake of Lucerne. 

The head of the lake with the very fine glen (Glen 
Fallocli), along which you can drive to Oban, is magnifi- 
cent. We (Louise and I) sketched as best we could, 
but it is most difficult to do so when the steamer keeps 
moving on; and we were afterwards much vexed we had 
not asked them to go more slowly, as we had to wait 
again for the "Rob Roy" steamer at Stronachlachar. 
From the head of Loch Lomond (where is the Hotel of 
Inverarnan] we turned; we were shown a hole in the 
rock, on the east side, which they called Rob Roy's Cave, 
and landed at Inversnaid. The people (quite a small 
crowd) threw bunches of heather as we passed. Heather 
is everywhere the decoration, and there is indeed no 
lovelier, prettier ornament. It was in such full bloom. 
The mountains here are peculiarly fine from the sharp 
serrated outline and wonderful clothing of grass and trees. 
It was a very bright warm evening, and the drive back, 
which we had to take slowly, not to arrive too soon, was 
extremely pretty. At Stronachlachar, both on embarking 
and disembarking, there were a few people collected. 
On board we had again our tea, and Mr. Blair, the very 
obliging gentlemanlike host of the Trossachs Inn (and 
possessor of the Loch Katrine steamer), who was in 
attendance each time, gave us some clotted cream. 

It was a splendid sail over this most lovely loch, and 
delightful drive back by the Trossachs. We got into the 
boat again where we left it this morning, and rowed 
across; but this time it was most unpleasant, for it blew 
and was very rough, and the little boat rolled and danced. 
The second smaller one with the two others shipped 

( 96 / 

water. Rode back and got up to the house by half-past 
seven. This was the only contretemps to our most 
successful, enjoyable day. How dearest Albert would 
have enjoyed it! 

Dinner just as before, Jane reading the newspapers. 
This day year we went to the Brtinig Pass. 

Sunday, September 5. 

A dull muggy morning. Decided not to go to kirk, 
as it would have been very public. So at eleven rode 
(on Sultan) with dear Beatrice (on her little Beatrice) for 
an hour, first up at the back of the farm, and then a 
little way on the beautiful pink heathery and bracken hills 
just behind the house, and saw Loch Drunkie almost dry 
from the drought, and looked over to the Brig of Turk, 
then back by the stables to the house. Read the collect, 
epistle, and gospel, and the second lesson for the day, 
with the two girls, Beatrice reading the last-named. 

While we were at luncheon it rained, but it soon ceased, 
and the afternoon became quite fine and was very warm. 
At half-past five walked out with Louise, Beatrice, and 
Jane Churchill, stopping at the lodge where Mclsaacs, 
the keeper, and his wife live. Walked some way on, 
and then drove with Beatrice round a short way on the 
Trossachs Road, coming home at half-past seven. 

Monday, September 6. 

Misty early, then beautiful and clear and very hot. 
Got up with a bad headache. At five minutes to eleven 
rode off with Beatrice, good Sharp going with us and 
having occasional " collie-shangies " * with collies when 

* A Scotch word for quarrels or "rows," but taken from fights 
between " collies." 

( 97 ) 

we came near cottages (A. Thomson and Kennedy fol- 
lowing). We rode out the same way we came back yester- 
day, and then up the same hill overlooking Loch Drunkie 
which really is nearly dry and on down the other side of 
the hill, as fast as we could go along a rough but very 
pretty road, which brought us, over perfumed pink heather 
interspersed with bracken, to a spot where you get a lovely 
glimpse of Loch Achray and Ben Venue. We then con- 
tinued along a wood past a few miserable cottages, but 
as private as if I were riding at Balmoral, out into the 
high road just at the Brig of Turk, and stopped at 
what is called " Fergussoris Inn" but is in fact the very 
poorest sort of Highland cottage. Here lives Mrs. 
ergusson, an immensely fat woman and a well-known 
laracter, who is quite rich and well dressed, but will not 
eave the place where she has lived all her life selling 
hisky. She was brought out and seemed delighted to 
me, shaking hands with me and patting me. She 
ralks with a crutch, and had to sit down. We only 
topped a very few minutes, and then went home as fast 
is we came, and got back by one. But Brown and the 
ther two men were as hot as the day we went up the 
/it, and it was indeed very hot. Our ride must have 
>een eight miles altogether. My head still aching. 

At three, after luncheon, we started just as yesterday, 
nd drove the same way as last Friday up the Pass of Leny 
y Loch Lubnaig, Strathyre and the King's House : here, 
nstead of turning to the left to Balquhidder, we went 
traight on for four miles, till we came to Loch Earn Head. 
t was a beautiful and very hot afternoon. We stopped 
t the inn, which is quite a small place commanding a 
eautiful view of Loch Earn, which was splendidly lit up, 
ae loch deep blue and the hills all lilac and violet. Sir 


( 98 ) 

Malcolm * and Lady Helen MacGregor with their two little 
children received us at the door and took us up upstairs. 
They have got a very pretty little drawing-room (looking 
on to the loch), which they have arranged nicely and com- 
fortably. The two little girls are dear little things, Malvina 
four and Margaret two years old. Sir Malcolm wore the 
kilt. He is a captain in the Navy, and showed us some 
curiosities brought home from New Zealand, also a bottle 
which is said to have belonged to Rob Roy, and was 
given to Lady Helen by an old man in the parish, and a 
silver quaich out of which Prince Charles Edward had 
drunk, and which had belonged to Sir Malcolm's great-' 
great-grandfather. Lady Helen is the late Lord Antrim's 
only child. Both were most kind and gave us some tea, 
and at half-past five we left on our return. There was a 
small friendly crowd collected at the door, who cheered 
both when we arrived and when we left. We changed 
horses here, or at least very near, in 1842 on our way back 
from Taymouth. They said I mentioned the circum- 
stance in my book, f We drove through the grounds of 
Edinchip, which belongs to Sir Malcolm MacGregor (but 
was then let), on the way home, and came back the same 
road, reaching home by half-past seven. 

My headache, which had been very bad all day, got 
much better just before we got home. 

Tuesilay, September 7. ) 

Received a letter from Colonel Elphinstone, dated 
22nd from Halifax, with excellent accounts of dear Arthur. 
The passage had been a very good one ; he had mixed 
with every one on board, and been a general favourite 

* He died in 1879. 

f Our Life in the Highlands, p. 31. 

( 99 ) 

three hundred emigrants on board. Walked, and rode 
a little, while the others walked. Tired and feeling ill. 
It turned wet and continued so all the evening. We, 
however, determined to go to Loch Katrine, having 
ordered the steamer, and boats to row to the Silver 
Strand. So off I went with the girls and Lady Churchill 
just as on the other days, but when we got there it was 
too wet to do anything ; so we only went on board the 
steamer, took our tea in the cabin below, and then drove 
.back again by half-past seven. 

Wednesday, September 8. 

A very bad night from a violent attack of neuralgia 
in my leg. I only got up after nine, and could hardly 
walk or stand, but was otherwise not ill. I took a little, 
but very little, breakfast, alone. I remained at home 
reading, writing, and resting on the sofa or in an arm-chair. 
I came down to luncheon, Brown helping me down and 
up, but took it alone with the children in the drawing- 
room. Rested afterwards, and at twenty minutes to four 
took a quiet but enjoyable drive with Jane Churchill. 
It was not very bright, nor the distance very clear, but 
there were occasional gleams of bright sunshine which 
lit up the fine scenery. We drove to Loch Menteith, just 
the same way as on Thursday, and were surprised to find 
how short the distance was. After passing the gate of 
Redneck Castle we turned to the left and drove a short 
way close along the lochside past the kirk and small 
village (composed of only two or three houses) of Port 
Menteith, getting a good view of Inchmahome on the way. 
We stopped to take our tea (which had been made before we 
went out, but was quite hot still) outside Rednock grounds, 

and then drove back again, but took another turn through 
Callander, and then along a road (above which a number 
of pretty villas are built, and where you have a very pretty 
view) which comes out at Kilmahog Turnpike. Then 
home by a quarter past seven. Found Sir William Jenner, 
whom we had sent for, arrived. I dined below (hobbling 
along a little better and downstairs without help) in the 
drawing-room with Louise and Jane Churchill. 

Thursday, September 9. 

I had a really very fair night, and on getting up 
found I could walk much better, for which I was most 
thankful. I went down to breakfast as usual. Received 
again letters from dear Arthur and Colonel Elphinstone 
with excellent and favourable accounts of the good his 
presence had already done. At half-past eleven drove 
with Louise and Beatrice up the Pass of Leny as far as 
the commencement of Lech Lnbnaig, intending to sketch, 
but it was too late. We met first two large coaches 
covered with people on the narrowest part of the bridge 
going to Kilmahog, and then endless droves of wild- 
looking, and for the most part extremely small, shaggy 
Highland cattle with their drovers and dogs most wild 
and picturesque going to Falkirk Tryst. They stop 
for nights on the road we saw some droves grazing on 
the lower parts of the hills on our way to Loch Earn Head 
and the drovers get shelter with friends in the cottages 
and villages about. Home at half- past one. Planted 
two (very small) trees in front of the house, as did 
Louise and Beatrice also. Luncheon as yesterday, only 
with the children. My leg very stiff, so that, with great 
regret, I had to give up going to Loch Katrine for the 
last time, which I had so much wished. However, 

did drive with Beatrice as far as the Trossachs Inn and 
back, and got a glimpse of the beautiful Trossachs and 
Loch Ac/iray, with Ben Venue rising gloriously above it. 
I even made a slight outline of it, and returned, quite 
pleased at this, by half-past seven, stopping to make 
and take our tea not far from home, I remaining in the 
carriage. Felt better altogether, and was able to come 
to the usual dinner, to which also Sir W. Jenner came. 
Dear Beatrice sat with us during part of the dinner, as 
she had done almost every night. Brown (the only 
upper servant in attendance, as I brought no page), who 
waited at all my meals, and did all the outdoor attendance 
on me besides, with the greatest handiness, cheerfulness, 
and alacrity, and the three very good footmen, Blake, 
Cannon, and Charlie Thomson did all the waiting at 
dinner and luncheon. Good Sharp was always in the 
dining-room, but remained quietly lying down. 

Friday, September 10. 

Raining early, which made me feel I had done right 
in giving up going by the Spital, as I had intended up 
to yesterday afternoon. Felt, however, better, and could 
walk with much greater ease. At half-past eleven we 
left Invertrossachs, the recollection of the ten days at 
which quiet and cozy and of the beautiful country 
and scenery I saw in the neighbourhood, though the 
last two days were spoilt by stupid indisposition, will 
ever be a very pleasant one. The two girls and I drove 
in a Callander carriage, with Brown on the box, perched 
up alarmingly high, Jane Churchill and the two gentlemen 
having preceded us to the station at Callander. All our 
luggage, ponies and all, went with our train. We stopped 
outside Perth for luncheon for a few minutes and Jane 

Churchill came in again at Aberdeen for our tea to 
enable Brown to come and help us. When we reached 
Ballater^ where we got into two carriages, it began 
to rain. 

Reached Balmoral at half-past six. 

( T 3 ) 


Balmoral, Monday, June 13, 1870. 
Drove off at half-past eleven on past J. Thomson's 
house. Here, in the nearest adjoining field, close to 
the wall, all the sheep (mine) were in a pen, and James 
Brown, the shepherd, and Morrison, my grieve at 
Invergelder, assisted by others (one, a brother of the 
Morgans), took them out one by one, tied their legs 
together, and then placed them on the laps of the 
women who were seated on the ground, and who 
clipped them one after the other, wonderfully well, with 
huge scissors or clippers. Four were seated in a sort of 
half-circle, of whom three were Mrs. Durran, Mrs. Leys 
(both these did their work admirably), and Mrs. Morrison, 
who seemed rather new at it, and had some difficulty 
with these great heavy sheep, which kick a good deal. 
The clippers must take them between their knees, and 
it is very hard work. Four other women were sitting 
close under the wall, also clipping. Then the sheep 
were all marked ; and some, before being clipped, had to 
have their horns sawn to prevent them growing into 
their heads. It was a very picturesque sight, and quite 
curious to see the splendid thick wool peel off like a 
regular coat. 

( T04 


Balmoral^ October 3, 1870. 

This was an eventful day ! Our dear Louise was 
engaged to Lord Lome. 

The event took place during a walk from the 
Glassalt Shiel to the Dhu Loch. She had gone there 
with Janie Ely, the Lord Chancellor (Lord Hatherley), 
and Lome. I had driven with Beatrice and the Hon. 
Mrs. Ponsonby to Pannanich Wells, two miles from 
Ballater, on the south side of the Dee, where I had been 
many years ago. Unfortunately almost all the trees 
which covered the hills have been cut down. 

We got out and tasted the water, which is strongly 
impregnated with iron, and looked at the bath and at 
the humble but very clean accommodation in the curious 
little old inn, which used to be very much frequented. 
Brown formerly stayed there for a year as servant, and 
then quantities of horses and goats were there. 

The same perfectly cloudless sky as on the two 
preceding days. We got home by seven. Louise, who 
returned some time after we did, told me that Lome had 
spoken of his devotion to her, and proposed to her, and 
that she had accepted him, knowing that I would approve. 
Though I was not unprepared for this result, I felt pain- 
fully the thought of losing her. But I naturally gave my 
consent, and could only pray that she might be happy. 


Balmoral, Sunday, November 13, 1871. 

A very bright morning with deep snow. At twelve 
o'clock I went to the kirk with my two ladies (the 
Duchess of Roxburghe and Lady Ely), Lord Bridport 
being also in attendance. At the end of the sermon 
began the service of the Communion, which is most 
touching and beautiful, and impressed and moved me 
more than I can express. I shall never forget it. 

The appearance of the kirk was very striking, with 
the tables in the cross seats, on either side facing the 
pulpit, covered with a white cloth. Neither Brown, 
though he came with us, nor any of our Scotch servants 
sat behind us, as usual, but all below, as every one does 
who intends taking the sacrament at the " first table." A 
table, also covered with a white cloth, was placed in 
front of the middle pew, directly facing the pulpit. 

The service was the same as that on ordinary Sundays 
until after the sermon, excepting that every psalm and 
prayer had reference to the Lord's Supper, and the 
sermon was on the perfect obedience of the Son (Hebrews 
ii. 10). 

The prayer after the sermon was very short, after 
which Dr. Taylor delivered an address from the pulpit, 
in which he very beautifully invited all true penitents to 

receive the communion, the hardened sinner alone to 
abstain. It was done in a very kind and encouraging 
tone. Dr. Taylor adopted part of one of the English 
prayers, only shortened and simplified. . . . After this 
address "the Fencing of the Tables," as it is called 
the minister came down to the small table in front of the 
pulpit, where he stood with the assistant minister, and 
the elders on either side, and while the 35th Para- 
phrase was being sung the elders brought in the Elements, 
and placed them on the table, viz. the bread cut into 
small pieces, and two large plates lined with napkins, and 
the wine in four large silver cups. The minister then 
read the words of the institution of the Lord's Supper, 
from i Corinthians xi. 23, and this was followed by a 
short but very impressive prayer of consecration. 

This done, he handed the bread first, and then the 
wine, right and left to the elders, Francis Leys (Brown's 
uncle), Symon " the merchant," Hunter, and Dr. Robert- 
son, to dispense; himself giving both to one or two 
people nearest to him, who were in the middle pew, 
where the Thomsons all sit generally, and in which, on 
this occasion, were old Donald Stewart and his wife 
(eighty-six and eighty-one, looking so nice and venerable), 
the young Donald Stewarts, the Thomsons, old Mr. and 
Mrs. Brown (he eighty-one and very much bent, and she 
seventy-one). Old John Brown and old Donald Stewart 
wore large plaids; old Smith of Kintore was likewise in 
this pew. The bread was then reverently eaten, and the 
wine drunk, sitting, each person passing it on one to the 
other; the cup being replaced by each on the table before 
them after they had partaken of the wine, and then the 
elder carried it on to the next pews, in which there were 
tables, until all those in that portion of the church pre- 
pared for the Lord's Supper, had communicated. After 

which the elders replaced the Elements on the table 
before the minister, who delivered a short address of 
thankfulness and exhortation. He then gave out the 
1 03rd Psalm, which was sung while the communicants 
were leaving the tables, to be occupied in turn by others. 
We left after this. It would indeed be impossible to 
say how deeply we were impressed by the grand simplicity 
of the service. It was all so truly earnest, and no de- 
scription can do justice to the perfect devotion of the 
whole assemblage. It was most touching, and I longed 
much to join in it* To see all these simple good people 
in their nice plain dresses (including an old woman in her 
mutch), so many of whom I knew, and some of whom 
had walked far, old as they were, in the deep snow, was 
very striking. Almost all our own people were there. 
We came home at twenty minutes before two o'clock. 

* Since 1873 I have regularly partaken of the Communion at 
Crathie every autumn, it being always given at that time. 

THE "SPATE," 1872. 

Tuesday, June 11, 1872. 

Brown came in soon after four o'clock, saying he had 
been down at the waterside, for a child had fallen into 
the water, and the whole district was out to try and 
recover it but it must be drowned long before this time. 
I was dreadfully shocked. It was the child of a man 
named Rattray, who lives at Cairn-na-Craig, just above 
where the new wood- merchant has built a house, and 
quite close to the keeper Abercrombie's house, not far 
from Monaltrie Farmhouse in the street. At a little 
before five, set off in the waggonette with Beatrice and 
Janie Ely, and drove along the north side of the river. 
We stopped a little way beyond Tynebaich, and saw the 
people wandering along the riverside. Two women told 
us that two children had fallen in (how terrible!), and 
that one " had been gotten the little een " (as the people 
pronounce " one "), but not the eldest. They were 
searching everywhere. While we were there, the old 
grandmother, Catenach by name, who lives at Scatter 
Hole, came running along in a great state of distress. 
She is Rattray's mother. We drove on a little way, and 
then turned round. 

We heard from the people that the two boys, one of 
ten or eleven and the other only three, were at Monaltrie 

Burn, which comes down close to the farmhouse and 
below Mrs. Patterson's shop, passing under a little bridge 
and running into the Dee. This burn is generally very 
low and small, but had risen to a great height the Dee 
itself being tremendously high not a stone to be seen. 
The little child fell in while the eldest was fishing ; the 
other jumped in after him, trying to save his little brother ; 
and before any one could come out to save them (though 
the screams of Abercrombie's children, who were with 
them, were heard) they were carried away and swept by 
the violence of the current into the Dee, and carried along. 
Too dreadful ! It seems, from what I heard coming back, 
that the poor mother was away from home, having gone 
to see her own mother, who was dying, and that she 
purposely kept this eldest boy back from school to watch 
the little one. 

We drove back and up to Mrs. Grant's, where we took 
tea, and then walked up along the riverside, and heard 
that nothing had been found and that the boat had gone 
back ; but as we approached nearer to the castle we saw 
people on the banks and rocks with sticks searching : 
amongst them was the poor father a sad and piteous 
sight crying and looking so anxiously for his poor child's 

Wednesday , June 12. 

Drove up to the Bush to warn Mrs. William Brown 
never to let dear little Albert run about alone, or near to 
the burn, of the danger of which she was quite aware. 
She said her husband, William, had started off early at 
three this mornimg. Some people went down to Aber- 
geldie and as far as the Girnoch to search, and others were 
up and below the castle. 

No word of the poor child being found. All were to 
start early to search. 

Thursday, June 13. 

At half-past ten drove out in the waggonette with 
Beatrice and Janie Ely, and drove beyond Mrs. Patterson's 
" shoppie " a little way, and turned up to the right off 
the road behind the wood-merchant's new cottage, and 
got out just below Abercrombie the keeper's house, and 
walked a few paces on to the small cottage called Cairn- 
na- Craig, at the foot of Craig Noerdie, in a lovely position, 
sheltered under the hill, yet high, with a beautiful view of 
Lochnagar. Brown went in first, and was received by the 
old grandmother ; and then we went in, and on a table 
in the kitchen covered with a sheet, which they lifted up, 
lay the poor sweet innocent " bairnie," only three years 
old, a fine plump child, and looking just as though it 
slept, with quite a pink colour, and very little scratched, 
in its last clothes with its little hands joined a most 
touching sight. I let Beatrice see it, and was glad she 
should see death for the first time in so touching and 
pleasing a form. 

Then the poor mother came in, calm and quiet, though 
she cried a little at first when I took her hand and said 
how much I felt for her, and how dreadful it was. She 
checked herself, and said, with that great resignation and 
trust which it is so edifying to witness, and which you see 
so strongly here, " We must try to bear it ; we must trust 
to the Almighty." 

The poor little thing was called Sandy. She herself 
is a thin, pale, dark, very good and respectable-looking 
woman. She had no wish to go away that day, as the old 
grandmother told us, but her husband wished her to see 
her mother. She has one boy and two girls left, and the 
eldest and youngest are taken. 

( III ) 

They were playing at the burnside, but some way above 
the road, where there is a small bridge. As we were 
leaving I gave her something, and she was quite overcome, 
and blessed me for it. 

We walked down again, and then drove back, and 
walked at once past the stables to the riverside, where, 
on both sides, every one was assembled, four in the boat 
(Donald Stewart and Jemmie Brown amongst them), and 
''all with sticks, and up and down they went, searching 
under every stone. They had been up to the boat pool 
and back, but nothing appeared. I remained watching 
till one o'clock, feeling unable to tear myself away from 
this terrible sight. The poor father was on our side, 
William Brown amongst the others on the other side. I 
sat on the bank with Janie Ely for some time (Beatrice 
having gone in earlier than I), Grant as well as Brown 
standing near me. When they came to that very deep 
pool, where twenty-two years ago a man was nearly 
drowned when they were leistering for salmon, they held 
a piece of red cloth on a pole over the water, which 
enabled them to see down to the bottom. But all in vain. 
The river, though lower, was still very high. 

At four took a short drive in the single pony carriage 
with Janie Ely, and back before five. Saw and talked to 
the schoolmaster, Mr. Lubban, a very nice little man, and 
he said that this poor child, Jemmie, the eldest, was such 
a good, clever boy. Every one shows so much feeling and 
kindness. It is quite beautiful to see the way in which 
every one turned out to help to find this poor child, from 
the first thing in the morning till the last at night which, 
during these long days, was very hard work and all 
seemed to feel the calamity deeply. We heard by tele- 
graph during dinner that the poor boy's body had been 
found on an island opposite Pannanich, below Ballater, 
and that steps would be taken at once to recover it. 

Saturday, June \ 5. 

After luncheon, at a quarter to three, drove with the 
two children up as far as the West Lodge, and just then de- 
scried the sad funeral procession slowly and sadly wending 
its way along the road ; so we drove back again, catching 
glimpses of it as we went along, and drove on a little way 
beyond the bridge, when, seeing the first people not far 
off, we turned and drove back, stopping close to the 
bridge, and here we waited to see them pass. There 
were about thirty people, I should say, including the poor 
father, Jemmie and Willie Brown, Francie's brother, Alick 
Leys, Farmer Patterson, etc. The poor father walked in 
front of one of the coffins ; both covered with white, and 
so small. It was a very sad sight. Dr. Taylor walked 
last with another gentleman. He had of course been up 
to the house and performed the service there, as is always 
done throughout Scotland by all the Protestant denomi- 
nations except the Episcopalian, and no service whatever 
near the grave.* We watched the sad procession as long' 
as we could, and drove home again. 

* A change has taken place since this was written, and now 
(1883) a prayer is sometimes said as well at the grave. 

AUGUST 13, 1872. 

Tuesday, August 13. 

At six I left sweet Osborne with Leopold and Beatrice, 
Marie Leiningen, and the Duchess of Roxburghe, Flora 
Macdonald,* Colonels Ponsonby and De Ros, Mr. Collins, 
and Fraulein Bauer. It was very warm. The yachts, 
which were out, had a very pretty effect. At Gosporf, 
where we had to wait about ten minutes before landing, 
as we arrived too soon, I took leave of dear Marie Lein- 
ingen, who was to return to Germany next day. We had 
our own usual large travelling railway carriages, which are 
indeed charming. 

It was a splendid night. Sir W. Jenner joined us at 
Basingstoke, and at Banbury at half-past ten we stopped 
for refreshments, and lay down before twelve. 

Wednesday ; August 14. 
I had a good deal 01 rest, and was up and dressed by 
eight, or a little past. But we had already passed Melrose, 
\ and there was so much fog, and the air so thick, that we 
could see very little. The last station (not in a village 

* The Hon. Flora Macdonald, Maid of Honour, now Bed- 
dumber Woman. 


or town) was Fountain?! all, where old Mr. Lawson, the 
former Lord Provost of Edinburgh and famous seedsman, 
came up to the carriage, and some little girls presented 
Baby (as Beatrice is always called by us still) with a nose- 
gay. We passed PortobeUo, and a few minutes more 
Drought us to the very station the private one, outside 
Edinburgh which for eleven years my beloved Albert 
and I had always arrived at, and where we left it together 
eleven years ago. There it was, all unaltered, and yet all 
so altered ! 

The General, Sir J. Douglas,* the Lord Provost, and 
other official people received us there, and we got into our 
carriage. The two children and the Duchess of Roxburghe 
went in the carriage with me. 

It was a dull, gloomy, heavy morning, but a great many 
people were out, and all most enthusiastic, reminding me 
forcibly and sadly of former days. We had an escort of 
the Scots Greys. We drove up to the door of the old, 
gloomy, but historical Palace of Holy rood, where a guard 
of honour with a band of the 93rd Highlanders were sta : 
tioned in the quadrangle of the court. We got out, walked 
up the usual stairs, and passed through two of the large 
gloomy rooms we used to occupy, and then went past 
some passages up another and very steep staircase to the 
so-called " Argyll rooms" which have been arranged for 
me, with very pretty light paper, chintz, and carpets (chosen 
by Louise). There is a suite, beginning with a dining- 
room (the least cheerful) at the farthest end, and then my 
sitting-room, a large and most cheerful room, the nicest 
of all, with very light paper ; next to this the bedroom, 
almost too large a room, and out of this the dressing-room i 
All open one out of the other, and have, except the!; 
dining-room, the same pretty carpets and chintzes (red 1 ; 
* Commanding the forces in Scotland. 

geraniums on a white ground). The page's room and a 
wardrobe and dresser's room are just opposite, across a 
small passage. 

We three took breakfast directly in the dining-room. 
Our rooms are above the old rooms, and have the same 

It cleared up, and though still thick and hazy, the 
sun shone out brightly, and at a quarter to twelve I went 
out into the garden, going through our old rooms, which 
looked sadly deserted : all open and some few things 
removed from them ; the gloomy bedroom with its 
faded tapestry and green silk bed, and the wretched little 
dark box-room in which I undressed at night, all full of 
many recollections. I went through the long picture 
gallery, down the small steps into the garden, where I 
met Beatrice, who walked with me. We walked about 
the garden, which is improved, but terribly overlooked, 
and quite exposed to public view on the side looking 
towards the street. We walked about the fine old chapel 
with its beautiful window and its tombstones, and then 
went in Beatrice and I with Brown (who was much 
interested by all) conducted by the keeper, an intelligent 
sensible man called Anderson, and visited the rooms of 
Queen Mary, beginning with the Hamilton apartments 
(which were Lord Darnley's rooms) and going up the old 
staircase to Queen Mary's chamber. In Lord Darnley's 
rooms there are some fine old tapestry and interesting 
portraits of the Royal family, and of the Dukes and 
Duchesses of Hamilton. There are some other curious 
old pictures in this room. 

We saw the small secret staircase which led up in the 
turret to Queen Mary's bedroom, and we went up another 
dark old winding staircase at the top of which poor 
Rizzio was so horribly murdered whose blood is still 

I 2 

supposed to stain the floor. We entered the Presence 
Chamber, the ceiling of which, in panels, is from the time 
of Queen Mary, and contains her mother's and her own 
initials and arms as Dauphine of France and Queen of 
Scotland, with Darnley's initials. Here is the bed provided 
for Charles I. when he came to Holyrood to be crowned 
King of Scotland. Thence we were shown into poor 
Queen Mary's bedroom, where are the faded old bed she 
used, the baby-basket sent her by Queen Elizabeth when 
King James I. was born, and her work-box. All hung 
with old tapestry, and the two little turret rooms ; the 
one where she was supping when poor Rizzio was mur- 
dered, the other her dressing-room. Bits of the old 
tapestry which covered the walls at the time are hung up 
in frames in the rooms. Beatrice is immensely interested 
by all she sees, and delighted with everything. 

At half-past five drove off in the open landau and 
four with Beatrice, Leopold, and the Duchess of Rox- 
burghe, the two equerries riding. We drove up through 
the Canongate, that curious old street with its very high- 
storied houses, past Knox's House and quaint old buildings, 
with the lowest, poorest people about, down Bank Street, 
and eastward along Princes Street, that splendid street 
with its beautiful shops, hotels, etc., on one side, and its 
fine monuments on the other, the gardens and institutions 
and other parts of the town rising above it and crowned 
by the picturesque Castle ; then by Saint Andrew 
Street, across Saint Andrew Square (where Lord Mel- 
ville's statue is), along George Street, a fine wide street, 
at the end of which is Charlotte Square, where my dear 
one's Monument is to be placed, and where I was to 
have stopped to look at the site. But the crowd, which was 
very great everywhere and would run with us (facilitated 
by the great steepness and slipperiness of the streets), as 

( "7 ) 

well as the great number of cabs and vehicles of all kinds 
which would drive along after us everywhere, made this 
impossible. We turned to the left with some difficulty 
one or two carriages coming in contact with ours 
and went on by Hope Street, Queen's Ferry Street, where 
we took a wrong turn, and went by Clarendon Crescent 
and Forres Street till we got to the Water of Leith, where 
we found we could not go on. 

We had to turn, with considerable difficulty, owing to 
the narrowness of the road, and go back again by Moray 
Place, Heriot Row, and thence down by Pitt Street on to 
Inrerleith Row (outside the town), past the Botanic 
Garden, then along the Queen's Ferry Road, Pilrig Street, 
and Leith Walk (which I remembered from our having 
taken the same drive in 1861), then along a broad street, 
under the Calton Hill, and Regent Terrace, past Holyrood, 
into the beautiful Queen's Drive, right round Arthur's 
Seat with its fine grass, its rocks and small lochs. Un- 
fortunately, however, no clear distant view could be 
obtained on account of the fog. Home to Holyrood at 
half-past seven. It was a fatiguing drive. 

The crowds were very great, but the people behaved 
remarkably well ; only they kept cheering and shouting 
and running with us, for the postilions drove very slowly 
whenever there was the slightest descent, and there were 
many in the town, and one long one coming down home 
from the Queen's Drive. A good many flags were out, 
(but there were hardly any decorations. The equerries 
\ kept extremely well close up to the carriage, which was 
! no easy task. 

Roslin Chapel. Walked a little in the garden at half-past 
ten, and then sat for half an hour under the only tree 
which afforded shade and was not overlooked by the street, 
a thorn, with very overhanging long branches, on a small 
grassy mound or " hillock." Here I read out of a volume 
of Poems by the "Ettrick Shepherd," full of beautiful 
things (which Brown had given me some years ago), and 
wrote till half-past twelve. 

At half-past five I started as yesterday with Beatrice, 
Leopold, and the Duchess of Roxburghe, the two equerries 
riding, and took a very long rather too long drive. It 
would have been quite beautiful and most enjoyable 
from the very fine scenery with rich vegetation, fine trees, 
and hills, and dales, with the Pentlands in the distance, 
had it not been for a dark, heavy, leaden fog and sky like 
November, but warmer, which obscured all the distance in 
the most provoking way, and at one time even came down 
in a rather heavy shower. We went out by the Queen's 
Drive, going to the right as we left Holyrood. Numbers 
of people surrounded the entrance, and, as there is a 
long ascent part of the way, some of them, especially 
boys, ran along with us. We proceeded by the Liberton 
Road, on past the villages of Straiton, Lasswade (very 
picturesque, and which I well remember from 1842), and 
Bonnyrigg, to Dalhousie Castle, where we had visited the 
late Marquis and Marchioness from Dalkeith in 1842 
(the Duchess of Buccleuch drove me over), an old Scotch 
castle in red stone, where, however, we did not get out. It 
had been raining, but we did not shut the carriage, and 
just as we had thought of doing so the rain ceased. From 
here we drove under a very fine viaduct along the South 
Esk, past Newbattle (not into the grounds) where there 
is an arch which was built for George IV. to drive through, 
but he never went there on through the small town of 

Dalkeith, where many people, as indeed in almost every 
other place, had collected, into the Park of Dalkeith. 
Here, as well as everywhere in the neighbourhood, there 
are beautiful trees, especially some very fine sycamores. 
We drove up to the house, and got out, as I wished the 
children to see the rooms where we had lived. The 
staircase and the gallery where I held the Drawing-room 
I remembered well, as also the dining-room. Our former 
rooms were shown us ; but though the bed and even 
the washing-basin still exist, the rooms which had been 
arranged for us are altered. 

We visited it last in September 1859. The popula- 
tion of Dalkeith and of all the villages about here are 
colliers and miners, and are very poor. We came home 
straight, coming into the same road as we started by, and 
going down the hill of the Queen's Drive. We collected 
again a goodly and most good-humoured crowd, and saw 
the little boys and girls rolling down the steep hill, and 
people pouring in from the town to get a sight of us. 

Friday, August 16. 

A thoroughly wet day. At half- past eleven I walked 
)ut with Flora Macdonald (whose name attracted great 
ttention in Edinburgh}, right across the court to the 
xbles, which are very good, and saw all belonging 
them harness-room, coach-house, etc. Then I 
jked into the guard-room next door, where the guard, 
t'ho were called out and drawn up thinking I was 
jming by, did not know us. I went in behind them, 
id I found a sergeant (I think) of the 93rd in full dress, 
rith four medals, and I asked him his years' service, 
vhich were twenty, and where he came from " Perth- 
hire" Two other men, who were cooking and had 

( 1.20 ) 

their coats off, were in the room where they also slept. 
The newspapers have reported an absurd conversation 
of mine with them, but none took place. We then 
walked back through the house into the garden, and 
finally came home through the chapel at half-past 

It was raining hard, but nevertheless we started at 
half-past four in the open landau, Beatrice and the 
two ladies with me, the two equerries riding. We drove 
by way of Princes Street, which overlooks the Mound 
with its gardens and fine buildings, and is always so 
animated and full of people on foot and in carriages ; 
crossed the Dean Bridge, which commands a most beauti- 
ful view, though then it was obscured by the pelting 
rain ; passed Stewart's Asylum, a fine new building, 
getting from the road a good view of another fine insti- 
tution, Fettes College, built only within the last few years ; 
and so on to the edge of Barnton Park, where we turned 
back to Granton. By this time it had begun to blow 
most violently, in addition to the rain, and the umbrellas 
dripped and the carriage became soaked. Our road 
lay close to the sea, past Granton Pier where we had 
landed in 1842 ; Trinity came next, a place with some 
good houses, and then Newharen \i\\eto. we saw many 
fishwives who were very enthusiastic, but not in their 
smartest dress and then Leith, where there were numbers 
of people looking out for us in spite of the dreadful 
rain ; but indeed everywhere the poor people came out 
and were most loyal. We took a wrong turn here, and 
had to come back again to go to the Albert Docks new 
and very splendid large docks, with the ships all decked 
out. We stopped a moment to speak to the Provost ol 
Leith, who said the people were very grateful for my 
coming ; and I have since had repeated expressions of 

thanks, saying the good people felt my coming out in 
the rain more than anything. We drove on along the 
shore, with a distant view of the Island of Inchkeith, by 
Leith Links, the London Road, the Cavalry Barracks, 
St. Margaret's Station and Queen's Park, home. We got 
home by ten minutes past seven. We were all more or 
less wet, and had to change our things. The waterproofs 
seemed not to have done their work. After dinner, at 
twenty minutes past eleven, we left Holyrood ; a gardener 
presented me with a bouquet, and said it was "the 
proudest day in his life." It did not rain, so we had the 
carriage open. The two children and the Duchess of 
Roxburghe were in our carriage, and we had an escort. 
Numbers of people were out. The whole way was 
splendidly lit up by red, blue, and yellow lights from 
Salisbury Crags and Arthur's Seat, and the effect was 
most dazzling and beautiful. There were besides some 
torches near the station, which was the same we arrived 
at. The Provost hoped I "was leaving well," and I 
thanked him for the very kind reception which I had met 
with, and for the beautiful illuminations. 

Saturday, August 17. 

Did not sleep much or well it was so very hot, and 
I was too much excited, and then we had to be roused up 
and to dress hurriedly before seven, by which time we 
were at Ballater. There were many people out, and so 
there were at Balmoral, where we arrived at a quarter to 
eight. The heather beautiful, but not completely out yet. 
The air sweet and soft. 

Beloved Mama's birthday ! That dear, dear mother ! 
so loving and tender, so full of kindness ! How often I 
long for that love ! She frequently spent this day at 
Abergeldie, but we were not here then. 


Friday, September 6, 1872. 

A dull but fair morning. Breakfasted with the children 
before nine o'clock, and at half-past nine I left dear 
Balmoral in the open landau and four with Beatrice and 
Leopold, Jane Churchill, Fraulein Bauer, and Lord 
Granville, and drove to Ballater, where Colonel Ponsonby, 
Sir W. Jenner, and Mr. Collins met us. Besides Brown, 
who superintends everything for me, Emilie Dittweiler, 
Annie Macdonald, Jemmie Morgan, my second piper 
Willie Leys, Beatrice's, Leopold's, and Lady Churchill's 
attendants, three footmen and Goddard went with us. 
We passed into the station at Aberdeen, which was 
immensely crowded. An address and the keys were 
presented by Provost Leslie ; then Lord Kintore (who 
gave me a nosegay and some fruit) and young Lord 
Aberdeen were presented. The day was becoming fine, 
and it was excessively hot. From Aberdeen we went by a 
line totally new to me past Inverurie, close past the hill 
of Benachie, and got a good sight of the Buck of Cabrach 
and the surrounding hills, past Huntly and the ruined 
Castle of Huntly to Keith, where the Banff Volunteers 
were drawn up and there were many people close to the 
station,, but no one on the platform.- Here we were 
delayed by one of the doors, from the bedroom into the 

little dressing-room, refusing to open. Annie had gone 
through shortly before we got to^Kf/'/Aiaftd when she wanted 
to go back, the door would not open, and nothing could 
make it open. Brown tried with all his might and with 
knives, but in vain, and we had to take in the two railway 
men with us, hammering and knocking away as we went 
on, till at last they forced it open. We were at Keith at 
1.20, and at Elgin at 1.58. The station here was beauti- 
fully decorated ; there were several arches adorned with 
flowers and heather, and a platform with raised seats for 
many ladies. The Provost and the Duke of Richmond 
and Lord March were there. The Provost presented an 
address, and then I spoke to the Duke of Richmond, 
who told me that dear Uncle Leopold had received the 
freedom of the city when he was staying in the neighbour- 
hood in 1819. The ruins of the Cathedral are said to be 
the finest in Scotland, and 'the town is full of ancient 
recollections. No British sovereign has ever been so far 
north. The Provost's daughter presented me with a 

We stopped here about ten minutes. It was broiling 
hot. The corn and oats looked ripe, and were cut in 
many places. After this we took our luncheon (cold), and 
as we were sitting at the small table we suddenly found 
ourselves passing slowly, without stopping, the station of 
Forres, near which is the wild " muir " which Shakespeare 
chose as the scene of Macbeth's meeting with the witches. 
Nairn lies very prettily on the shore of the Moray Frith. 
We passed Culloden, and the moor where that bloody 
battle, the recollection of which I cannot bear, was fought. 
The heather beautiful everywhere, and now the scenery 
became very fine. At half-past three we were at Inverness, 
the capital of the Highlands, the position of which is lovely. 
We stopped here for ten minutes, but outside the station 

There was an immense crowd, but all very well managed, 
and no squeeze or crush. There were numbers of seats 
in galleries filled with ladies, among whom I recognised 
Mrs. Cluny Macpherson. Cluny Macpherson himself 
was in command of the Volunteers. On the platform to 
the left (the Volunteers and the galleries with seats were 
to the right) was the Provost, Dr. Mackenzie, a fine- 
looking old man in a kilt, with very white hair and along 
white beard, who presented an address. Lord Seafield, 
the Master of Lovat, Mr. Baillie of Dock/our^ and his son 
Mr. Evan Baillie, were all there, and I said a word to 
each. The Provost's grand-daughter presented a bouquet. 
There was an immense crowd at the back of the platform. 
As our train proceeded, the scenery was lovely. Near 
the ruins of the old Priory of Beauty the river of the 
same name flows into the Beauty Frith* and the frith 
looks like an enormous lake with hills rising above it 
which were reflected on the perfectly still water. The 
light and colouring were rather grey, but had a charming 
effect. At twenty minutes to four we reached DmgwaU^ 
where there were Volunteers, as indeed there were every- 
where, and where another address was presented and also 
flowers. Sir J. Matheson, Lord Lieutenant of the county, 
was named to me, also the Vice- Lieutenant ; and some 
young ladies gave Beatrice nosegays. The position of 
Dingwall, in a glen with hills rising above it, is extremely 
pretty, and reminds me of a village in Switzerland. The 
head of the Cromartie Frith appears here. After this 
and passing slowly Tain and St. Duthus (called after the 
Cathedral there), we thought, as we did not stop, and 
were not to do so, that we would take our tea and coffee 
which kept quite hot in the Norwegian kitchen when 
suddenly, before we had finished, we stopped at Bonar 
* Beauly, so called from the French " Beau lieu." 

Bridge, and the Duke of Sutherland came up to the door. 
He had been driving the engine (!) all the way from 
Inverness, but only appeared now on account of this being 
the boundary of his territory, and the commencement of the 
Sutherland railroad. He expressed the honour it was to 
him that I was coming to Dunrobin. Lord Ronald L. 
Gower also came up to the carriage-door. There was a 
most excited station-master who would not leave the 
crowd of poor country-people in quiet, but told them 
to cheer and "cheer again," another "cheer," etc., 
without ceasing. 

Here the Dornoch Frith, which first appears at Tain, 
was left behind, and we entered the glen of the Shin. 
The railway is at a very high level here, and you see the 
Shin winding below with heathery hills on either side 
and many fine rocks, wild, solitary, and picturesque. The 
Duchess of Sutherland's own property begins at the end 
of this glen. At six we were at Golspie station, where 
the Duchess of Sutherland received us, and where a 
detachment of the Sutherland Volunteers, who look very 
handsome in red jackets and Sutherland tartan kilts, was 
drawn up. I got into the Duchess's carriage, a barouche 
with four horses, the Duke riding, as also Lady Florence 
and their second son Lord Tarbat, and drove through the 
small town one long street like Dufftown which is 
inhabited chiefly by a fishing population, and was ex- 
tremely prettily decorated with heather and flowers, and 
where there were many triumphal arches with Gaelic in- 
scriptions (which I annex) and some very pretty English 

" Ar Buidheachas do 'n Bhuadhaich. " 
" Our Gratitude to Victoria." 

'"' Na h-uile lath chi's nach fhaic, slainte duibh 'is solas." 

" Health and happiness, far or near." 
(Literally " Every day see we you, or see we not, 
health to you and happiness.") 

" Ceud mile failte do Chattaobh." 
" A hundred thousand welcomes to Sutherland." 

" Failte do 'n laith Buidhe.' 
" Hail to the lucky day." 

" Better-lo'ed you canna' be ; 
Will you no come back again ? " 

Everywhere the loyalty and enthusiasm were very great. 
In about ten minutes we were at Dunrobin Castle. Coming 
suddenly upon it as one does, or rather driving down to 
it, it has a very fine imposing appearance with its very 
high roof and turrets, a mixture of an old Scotch castle 
and French chateau. Constance Westminster (the Mar- 
chioness of Westminster, the Duke's youngest sister) was 
at the door, and Annie Sutherland's little girl in the hall, 
which is, as also the staircase, all of stone, with a sort of 
gallery going round opening into a corridor. But I will 
describe this and the rooms to-morrow. 

The Duchess took me to my rooms, which had been 
purposely arranged and handsomely furnished by the 
dear late Duke and Duchess for us both, and consist of 
a sitting-room next to the drawing-room, with a little 
turret communicating by a small passage with the dressing- 
room, which opens into the bedroom and another room 
which is my maid's room, and was intended for dearest 
Albert's dressing-room. I went to see Beatrice's room, 
which is close by, down three steps in the same passage. 
Fraulein Bauer, and Morgan, her dresser, are near her. 

( 127 ) 

Brown lives just opposite in the room intended for Albert's 
valet. It was formerly the prison. 

Rested a little while, for I felt very tired. Dined at 
half-past eight alone in my sitting-room with Beatrice and 
Leopold, Brown waiting. Shortly afterwards Annie Suther- 
land came to see us for a little while, and later Jane 
Churchill. The children went early to bed. 

Dunrobin, Saturday, September 7. 
I will now describe my rooms. They are very high; the 
bedroom is the largest and very handsome, with a beauti- 
ful bed with white and gold flowers and doves at each 
corner (just like one at Clieveden), with light blue furniture, 
and gold and white round the cornice of the ceiling ; pale 
blue and white panels ; blue satin spangled with yellow 
leaves (which look just like gold) on the walls ; and furni- 
ture and carpet to match. The dressing-room the same, 
but pale blue and pink silk fluted, on the walls. The 
sitting-room pale sea-green satin, with the cyphers of the 
late Duke and Duchess and their daughters on the ceiling. 
The furniture of light wood, and the sofas, chairs, tables, 
etc., remind me greatly of Clieveden and Stafford House. 
The little boudoir has a small domed ceiling, spangled 
with golden stars, and the same furniture. There are 
some pretty pictures in the sitting-room and prints in the 
other rooms. At half-past nine we breakfasted in the 
sitting-room, and soon after saw the Duchess. At twenty 
minutes to eleven, I walked out with the Duchess and 
Beatrice to the steps, of which there are several flights, 
leading down to the garden, which is very pretty, and 
where there are fountains, and from here straight on to 
the sea, which is closer to the house, by half a mile I 
should say, than at Osborne. We walked along here, and 

then up and into the pretty byre for Ayrshire cows, and 
a little farther on to the dairy, a very nice, cool round one. 
The Duchess told Brown to open the sitting-room, and 
we found it occupied by a policeman in bed, which we 
were not at all prepared for, and which caused much 
amusement. Florence, Jane Churchill, and Fraulein Bauer 
had joined us here, and shortly after the Duke did so too. 
We walked back through the kitchen garden, which is 
very well kept, and the Duke also showed us where he 
has a quantity of young salmon which are artificially 
hatched, and also a new apparatus for watering grass. 
We came home by the steps again. There is plenty of 
shade, but rather too many trees. The old part of the 
Castle is as old as the twelfth century. The late Duke 
enlarged it and added on the towers, and finished the 
new part in 1849-50. 

In at a quarter to twelve. A dull muggy day. We 
lunched as we breakfasted. Afterwards reading, etc., and 
at twenty minutes past four drove out in the waggon- 
ette (Bourner* driving, as I had sent my own carriage 
and ponies) with the Duchess, Constance Westminster, 
and Jane Churchill. We drove past the monument 
of the late Duke, which faces the Castle and is out- 
side the gates, close to which is the Duke's private little 
station, used only by the family rather near, for it can- 
not be above five hundred yards from the house, but 
it is very well managed, so as to be but little seen. We 
drove by the four cross-roads, turning to the left through 
Dunrobin Wood, which is really very pretty, with fine 
Scotch firs and other trees of all kinds, beech, oak, ash, 
and birch, above and below the drives, with quantities of 
lovely pink heather and ferns some parts of the drive 

* My coachman and position, who has been thirty-eight years 
in my service. -1 88 j. 

12 9 ) 

are rather steep on to Bacchies, then by the Dutch 
Cottage, on to Benabhraghie Drive, and stopped at the 
four cross-roads to take our made tea and coffee, the 
warmth of which surprised Constance and Annie very 
much. We saw some deer. Drove on by the same 
drive (Benabhraghie^ the name of the hill on which the 
old Duke's very colossal statue stands). We stopped a 
little farther on to look at a fine view of the Castle and 
village, and to the right the hills which are seen farther 
inland, and the blue distant hills above the coast of 
Ross-shire ; then came out at Culmallie Lodge and 
passed through the village of Golspie with all its pretty 
decorations, and stopped at two cottages outside, when 
Annie called out a nice-looking girl who makes beautiful 
Shetland shawls in the one, and an oldish woman, a 
character, who worked me a book-marker and lives in 
the other (a double cottage under one roof). We drove 
through the Golspie Burn and dairy park, along the grass 
drive on the seashore below the woods, as far as 
Strathstephen, and looking back had one of the finest 
views of the Castle, with the hills of Cambusmore rising 
behind, and, turning up into the Caithness high road, 
came back to the Castle. 

Home at half-past six. A dull evening. Tried to 
sketch a bit of sea-view. At a quarter past eight we 
had dinner in the dining-room with the Duke and 
Annie (between whom I sat), Leopold, Constance 
Westminster, the Granvilles, Jane Churchill, and Ronald. 
I felt strange such a dinner in a strange place for the 
first time without my dear one ! Brown waited on me, 
and did so at all meals, attending on me indoors and 
t of doors, most efficiently and indefatigably. Then 
vent for a short time into the drawing-room, which is 
lext my sitting-room. Here we were joined by Mrs. 


( 130 ) 

Sumner (Miss Kingscote by birth, half-sister to Colonel 
Kingscote and niece to Lord Bloomfield), a great friend 
of the Duchess's, and who is staying in the house with 
her husband, who is a great friend of the Duke's ; 
Constance Pitt, a younger sister of Mary Pitt, and 
travelling with her uncle and Lady Granville ; Dr. Fayrer 
(a distinguished physician, who was for two years in 
India)* Mr. Sumner, and Mr. Edwin Lascelles, brother 
to Mary. I remained for a few minutes, and then went 
to my room. 

Sunday, September 8. 

A fine bright morning. Breakfast as yesterday. 
Directly after it, at a quarter-past ten, walked with 
Beatrice along the Ladfs Walk, as it is called, which 
commences near the Castle and goes for a mile and a 
half entirely amongst trees, very shady, and overlooking 
the sea, and with paths leading down to the sea, and 
seats commanding lovely views of the sea and distant 
coast. It was very warm, and the thickness of the 
adjoining woods made the air feel close. We walked 
back the same way, and got home at a quarter-past 
eleven. At twelve there was quite a short service 
performed by Dr. Gumming in the gallery which runs 
round the staircase, Dr. Gumming being opposite to us. 
It was over by a quarter to one. Annie then took me up 
to her room, which is a very pretty one ; long, but not 
high, and very light, with a very fine view above all the 
trees ; very simply furnished. Her dressing-room and 
bedroom equally nice and airy, like those they have at 
Stafford House. The Duke's dressing-room is very 
simply and plainly furnished ; he is wonderfully plain 

* He travelled with Alfred, and has written a remarkable book 
on snakes. 

and simple in his tastes. The Duchess took me along 
the passage to where Florence lives, and to the nursery 
where we saw little Alix in her bed, and then by a 
staircase, which belongs to the very old part of the 
Castle, to the rooms which w r ere the dear late Duke's and 
Duchess's, though the last time she came here she lived 
in my rooms. Everywhere prints of ourselves and of 
people I know. After this came down again. Luncheon 
as yesterday. 

At twenty minutes past four walked to the nearest 
seat in the Lady's Walk, and sketched the view, and 
about half-past five drove out in the waggonette with 
Beatrice and Lady Granville. We drove through the 
Uppat Woods, along the big burn drive, past the Pictish 
Tower up to Mr. Loch's Memorial, which has the 
following inscription on it by the late Duchess : 




May his children's children gather here, and think of him whose 
life was spent in virtuous labour for the land he loved and for the 
Friends he served, who have raised these stones, A.D. 1858. 

OBIIT JUNII 28 1855. 

The heather is very rich all round here. We got out 
and went into it, and there is a very fine view looking up 
Dunrobin Glen and over the sea, and Birk Head, which 
is the extreme point of the land which runs into the sea. 
You also get a very -pretty glimpse of the Castle at the 
end of a path cut through the wood. We drove down 
again, and before we were out of the lower wood, which 
is close down upon the sea-shore, we stopped to take our 

K 2 

( 132 ) 

tea and coffee, but were halt devoured by midges. We 
then came out upon the high road, and got into the 
sea-shore road, about half a mile beyond where we went 
yesterday, and drove along it and in by the Dairy home 
at seven. Resting, writing. Dined in our sitting-room 
with our two children and Annie. Afterwards we went 
into the drawing-room where the ladies and gentlemen 
were, but I only stayed a short time. 

Monday, September g. 

Raining a little early in the day. After breakfast 
drove in the waggonette with Beatrice and Jane Churchill 
to the Kennel, a remarkably nice and clean one to the 
left, and rather farther on than the stables, which are 
close to the railway station. Mr. Macdonald, the head 
keeper (who is brother to our poor Macdonald, Albert's 
late Jager), whom I saw at Windsor two years ago, 
showed us over them. There are fine deerhounds and 
pointers and setters. We visited the Macdonalds in 
their nice house, and saw their daughters, three of whom 
are very good-looking and remind me of their cousins. 
He is not the least like his brother. From here we went 
to the stables, which are small, where my ponies were, 
and where we also saw some of Annie's ponies and] 
horses. Then walked home, meeting the Duke and 
Ronald on the way. Two splendid Highland beasts, 
which are being fattened for the Christmas show, were, 
brought up to the road for me to see. We passed the 
herd they belong to yesterday, when driving. These, 
beasts really are beautiful, and most picturesque, with 
their rough coats, shaggy heads, and immense spreading 
horns; the greatest number are dun- and mouse-coloured. 
At twenty-five minutes past twelve I started with the two 

( '33 ) 

children and Annie for the laying of the first stone of 
the Memorial to be raised by the clansmen and servants 
to the memory of my dear Duchess of Sutherland, who 
was adored in Sutherland. We drove in the barouche 
and four. The rain had quite ceased. Everyone else 
had gone on before; the Duke waited to help us in, 
and then ran on followed by MacAlister, his piper, 
valet, and confidential servant a short stout man of 
sixty, I should say an excellent man, and first-rate 
piper. We got out, and I went up on a platform, which 
was covered over and close to the stone, with the children, 
Annie, the Duke, Constance, and Jane Churchill. All 
the others, and many spectators, stood around. Mr. 
Joass, the minister there, offered up a short prayer, and 
after it presented (but did not read) the Address. I then 
answered what I had thought over, but spoke without 

" It gives me great pleasure to testify on this occasion 
my love and esteem for the dear Duchess, my valued 
friend, with whose children I am happy to be now staying, 
and I wish also to express my warm thanks for the loyal 
and hearty welcome I have met with in Sutherland" 

This made me very nervous, but it was said without 
hesitating. Then the usual ceremony of spreading the 
mortar and of striking the stone with a mallet was gone 
through. The Duke gave me a drawing of the intended 
Memorial, which is to be an Eleanor cross, with a bust 
of the dear Duchess, and a medal of her which Ronald 
L. Gower had struck. After this we got into the carriage 
again, amid the cheers of the people, and drove back. 
Only Leopold walked, and Constance took his place in 
the carriage. We were in before one. Almost directly 
afterwards Beatrice and I went into the ante-room (where 
| all the company who afterwards had luncheon were 

( 134 ) 

assembled) with Annie and the Duke, who presented 
some people to me; amongst others a very old lady, Mrs. 
Houston by name, who is between eighty and ninety, 
and was a great friend of the dear Duchess and of the 
Duchess of Norfolk. She was quite overcome, and said, 
"Is that my dear Queen," and, taking the Duke's hand, 
" and my darling Duke ? " 

Luncheon as usual. After it saw Lord Granville. 
At a quarter past four drove out in the waggonette, drawn 
by four of the Duke's horses, with Beatrice, Annie, and 
Constance. It was fine though not very bright weather, 
and windy. We drove to the top of Benabhraghie, or the 
Monument Hill, on which is the very colossal statue of 
the Duke's grandfather, the first Duke, who married the 
Countess of Sutherland, from whom this enormous pro- 
perty came. She died in 1839, and I remember her 
quite well as a very agreeable, clever old lady. We drove 
through part of the wood by the way we went the pre- 
vious days, up the big burn drive and through Bacchies, 
looking up Dunrobin Glen, which is very wild; and the 
pink heathery hills, though not very high, and the moor, 
with distant hills, were very pretty. It is a long pull 
upwards on a grass drive, which makes it very hard work 
for the horses. Halfway up we stopped to take tea and 
coffee; and before that, Brown (who has an extraordinary 
eye for it, when driving quite fast, which I have not) 
espied a piece of white heather, and jumped off to pick 
it. No Highlander would pass by it without picking it, 
for it is considered to bring good luck. We got a very i 
extensive view, though not quite clear, of endless hills 1 
between this and the west coast all the Duke's property] 
where the Westminsters have two if not three forests! 
of the Duke's. 

In fine weather seven counties are to be seen in] 

( '35 ) 

the other direction, looking towards Ross-shire and the 
Moray Frith^ but it was not clear enough for this. We 
saw distinctly Ben Rinnes, a highish hill that rises in the 
distance above a long stretch of low land extending into 
the sea, which belongs to the Duke of Richmond. We 
drove down the hill the same way, but afterwards took 
a different turn into the high-road, and home by Golspie 
and the Lodge by seven. The dear pretty little girl came 
to see me. Beatrice brought in Lilah Grosvenor, who 
had just arrived. Dined at a quarter-past eight in the 
dining-room, as on Saturday. The same people exactly, 
with the addition of Colonel Ponsonby. We had some 
sheep's head, which I tasted for the first time on Sunday, 
and think really very good. Remained a little while in 
the drawing-room, and the Duke presented Mr. Stanley, 
the discoverer of Livingstone. He talked of his meeting 
with Livingstone, who he thinks will require eighteen 
months to finish the work on which he is bent. Sir 
Henry Rawlinson was also there. 

Then went to my room and Jane read. 

Tuesday ', September 10. 

Very fine. Our usual breakfast. At half-past ten 
got on my pony Maggie, Annie and Jane Churchill 
walking, and went to see the Golspie Burn Falls. We 
made two mistakes before we got right. We went out 
by the usual approach down to the mill, and past the 
mill under the great arch for the railway, over some 
very rough stones in the river, and then along a path in 
the wood full of hazel bushes and trees of all kinds, till 
the glen narrows very much, and we came to a wooden 
bridge, where I got off and walked to the head of the 
falls over several foot-bridges, along a small path over- 

( 136 ) 

hung by high rocks and full of rich vegetation. It is 
extremely pretty, reminding me of Corriemulzie, only on 
a much smaller scale. I mounted my pony again, and 
rode home the same way about twelve. Very warm. 
We had a few drops of rain, but it remained very fine all 

At ten minutes to four started with the two children 
and Annie Sutherland in my waggonette for Loch Brora, 
which is nine miles off. We drove past the stables out 
on the main Caithness road, through the small fishing 
village of Brora, where all the people were out, and 
where they had raised a triumphal arch and decorated 
the village with heather. We turned sharp to the left, 
and came into a wild moor country, stopping for a 
moment at a place where one of the new coal mines 
which the Duke has found is being worked. One of 
these, near the sea, we had passed on Sunday. Then on, 
till we came very soon to the commencement of Loch 
Brora, which is seven miles in length, very narrow at 
first, and out of which the Brora flows into the sea. 
The hills heighten as the loch widens, and to the left as 
we drove along the Carrol Hill rises very finely with 
bold rocks up above the loch. An hour's drive took us 
to the Fishing Cottage, a small wooden house, built like 
a chalet, which is just off the road, on the grass. Here 
we got out. The Duke drove his break, four horses in 
hand. They had never been together before, and it was 
not easy to drive them, for the road is full of turnings 
and rather narrow. Lord Granville sat on the box with 
him; and Constance Westminster, Jane Churchill, the 
Duchess de San Arpino (who had just arrived, and is a 
great friend of the Duchess) and Lady Granville were 
inside, and two grooms sitting behind. The three young 
ladies, and Mr. Collins, and Colonel Ponsonby followed 

in the waggonette. They had started before us, but we 
caught them up at Brora. MacAlister had broiled some 
fish and got tea ready for us in a very small room upstairs 
in this little cottage, where there was a fire. I had my 
coffee. We ladies and Leopold all squeezed into this 
room. It was a very merry tea. The tea over, we all 
went down to see a haul of fish. It was very successful; 
quantities of brilliantly red char, trout, and two salmon, 
both of which had to be put back again. After this haul 
I went up and sat sketching on the balcony while there 
were several more hauls, which Macdonald the keeper 
superintended, and some walked, and others rowed. The 
view, looking towards the Carrol Hill, was lovely, and the 
colouring beautiful. 

The ladies and gentlemen rowed across, having sent 
the carriages round, but I preferred terra firma, and 
drove round the loch to where the Black- Water runs into 
Loch Brora, and is literally black ; we drove over it. 
The Duchess told us that there was a fine drive into a 
wild country up that glen. We drove along the loch side, 
really a beautiful drive, under the Carrol Rock or Hill, 
through the Carrol Wood ; the trees seem to grow re- 
markably well there. We saw some deer on the very 
top of the hills. As we drove along the loch, some 
high hills were seen rising up behind the low ones on the 
opposite side, one of which, called Ben Arlmin, is in the 
Duke's nearest deer-forest. 

We turned to the right, passing by moors which the 
Duke has cultivated wonderfully with the steam plough, 
and came back through Uppat, stopping near Mr. Loch's 
place, Uppat, where, in early days, the late Duke and 
Duchess used to live when they were Lord and Lady 
Gower. Mr. Loch's father was the commissioner for the 
late Duke, and the present Mr. Loch (whom I remember 

( '33 ) 

in a similar capacity at Worsley^ Lord Ellesmere's, in 
1851) is commissioner to the present Duke. Mrs. Loch, 
and her daughter, and little granddaughter, who gave me 
a nosegay, were there. And the Dol schoolchildren were 
drawn up outside the school. We got home through the 
woods at twenty minutes past seven. Dinner was at 
half-past eight in the dining-room, the same as before, 
only with the addition of the Duchess of San Arpino and 
Sir Henry Rawlinson, and the omission of Lord Ronald 
L. Gower and Colonel Ponsonby. 

I must now describe the dining-room. It is not a 
very large room, but a pretty one ; with wood panelling 
and a portrait of the first Duchess's father, the Earl of 
Sutherland, at one end, and a beautiful chalk drawing, 
by Landseer, of two deer in the snow, one having been 
killed by the other. Stags' heads are round the room, 
and behind one (a very fine one) gaspipes have been 
introduced, which light up each point. In each panel 
along the sides of the room are paintings after Thorwald- 
sen's statues. By daylight the room is dark. We had 
some haggis at dinner to-day, and some sheep's head 
yesterday. MacAlister had walked round the table each 
of the previous days playing, but to-day it was my piper,* 
Willie Leys ; and afterwards they played together in the 
next room. Went again for a little while into the draw- 
ing-room, which is handsome, and about the size of the 
dining-room, and cheerfully arranged with tables and 
ornaments. The paper on the walls is dark red. There 
is a little turret at one end of it, and windows en two 
sides, and it opens into the ante-room, which again opens 
into the library. There is a full-length picture of me in 
the ante-room. The dining-room is a detached room on 

* He left my service in 1876. 

( 139 ) 

the other side ; and the billiard-room is close opposite to 
my sitting-room. Jane Churchill again read to me in my 

Wednesday, September n. 

A dull morning. The military manoeuvres in the 
South seem to be going on very satisfactorily, and every 
one praises dear Arthur, his indefatigable zeal and pains. 
It is very gratifying. At a quarter to eleven walked with 
Jane Churchill and the Duke down to the small museum 
in the garden, which is very nicely arranged, and where 
there is a very interesting collection of Celtic ornaments, 
some of which are quite perfect, and have been very well 
imitated, and of all sorts of odd and curious Celtic remains, 
weapons, utensils, etc., and a very fine large collection of 
all the birds found at or near Dunrobin. Mr. Joass, the 
minister, was there to explain everything to us. 

We took a short turn, and came home at half-past 
eleven, as it rained. We met little Alix on her wee pony. 
We also saw the Duchess's Norwegian cariole and pony. 
(Busy choosing presents to give away ; and after our 
usual luncheon there was some more arranging about 
these presents.) Painting the view of the sea from my 
window. At ten minutes to four started in the waggonette, 
with the two children and Annie. The Duke, the other 
ladies, Ronald L. Gower, Colonel Ponsonby, and Sir 
Henry Rawlinson had gone on in the drag. W r e drove 
out by the West Lodge, through Golspie, on the road (on 
part of which we had come before) under the Silver Hill, 
a very pretty wooded road, and turned to the right across 
the Mound, an embankment constructed by the first Duke 
to make a communication across an arm of the sea, called 
Loch Fleet, which comes in there. This Mound "spans 
Strath fleet" Near it is a railway station. 

We then drove through a very pretty glen, with fine 
hills, to Dornoch, along the shore of Dornoch Frith, past 
Cambusmore (though not near the house, which lies up in 
the wood at the foot of the fine hill of that name), on 
through woods for some way, till we suddenly emerged 
on lower ground and saw the steeple of Dornoch Church, 
formerly a cathedral. 

We turned sharp to the left, and went into Dornoch ; 
quite a small place, but the capital of Sutherland, now 
much out of the world, as the railway does not go near it. 
It is a small fishing town, smaller than Golspie. There 
was an arch with a Gaelic inscription, and the houses 
were decorated with flowers, heather, and green boughs, 
and many people out. We drove to the door of the so- 
called cathedral ; though I had not intended doing it, 
I got out there, and walked up the large kirk. The late 
Duke's father and mother are buried there, as were six- 
teen Earls of Sutherland ; and there is a statue of the 
old Duke in marble. The cathedral was built by Gilbert 
de Moravia, Bishop from 1 223 to 1260, at his own expense. 
St. Gilbert was related to the Sutherlands, who had then 
recently acquired that vast territory, " the Southern land 
of Caithness" which now gives the title to their descendant, 
the present and third Duke. In a very ancient stone 
sarcophagus are the bones of Richard Murray, brother 
to the Bishop. We only remained a few minutes in the 
church, and then went out by another door, where we got 
into the carriage. There is a curious old tower opposite 
the church, which was part of the Bishop's Palace. The 
people were very enthusiastic, and an old fishwife, with 
her creel on her back, bare legs and feet, and very short 
petticoat (we met many such about Dunrobiri), began 
waving a handkerchief, and almost dancing, near the end 
of the place as we drove away. Brown motioned to her 

to come on, and threw her something, which the poor old 
thing ran to pick up. We stopped when we had regained 
the wood to take our tea and coffee, and were joined by 
the Duke's drag just as we had finished. 

We changed our road, going by Embo and Skelbo, 
the model farm of the late Duke, and drove up to 
Cambitsmore, the pretty little cottage of Mr. and Mrs. 
Bateson. There is a small garden in front. The two 
children got out, and so did all the others, but I begged 
to remain in the carriage, as I was tired. However, I 
afterwards got out ; and certainly the little cottage is 
most charmingly fitted up with deer's heads, pretty prints, 
and pretty things of all kinds. They asked me to write 
my name in a book, which I did, sitting in the carriage. 

From here we drove back again the same way; and 
the evening was very fine, and the sky beautiful, red and 
every possible bright colour. As we drove along, before 
reaching Cambusmore we saw the high land of Caithness, 
a good way beyond Brora. Back by seven. Dined 
with the two children in my own room, and then went 
for a short while into the drawing-room ; then wrote, and 
at half-past eleven left Dunrobin, with the two children 
and Annie, in the Duke's carriage, the Duke (in the kilt) 
helping us in, and then walking, with MacAlister after 
him, up the approach, straight to the private station, 
which is about five hundred yards from the house. 

There were many people out, and the whole was 
brilliantly illuminated by Egyptian and red and blue 
lights. At the station all the ladies and gentlemen were 
assembled, and I wished them all good-bye, and then 
got into the train, having kissed Annie, and Constance, 
and the two girls, and shaken hands with the Duke, who, 
as well as the Duchess, had been most kind. 

It was half-past twelve before I lay down. Beatrice 
did so sooner. 

( 142 ) 

Thursday, September 12. 

I had not slept much, but the journey was very quiet. 
At eight we were at Ballater. A splendid morning. We 
drove off at once, Beatrice, Leopold, and I in one 
carriage, and reached dear Balmoral safely at a quarter to 
nine A.M. 

Felt as though all had been a dream, and that it was 
hardly possible we should have been only last night at 
DunroMn, and dined there. 

( 143 ) 


[March, 1873. I am anxious to put on record all my 
recollections of my dear and valued friend Dr. Norman 
Macleod, who has been taken from us, and whose loss is 
more deeply felt every day. 

I have therefore made the following extracts from my 
journal since the year 1861, when my heavy misfortune 
brought me into very close contact with him.] 

Balmoral, Sunday, May 11, 1862. 
Hurried to be ready for the service which Dr. Mac- 
leod was kindly going to perform. And a little before 
ten I went down with Lenchen and Affie (Alice being 
still in bed unwell) to the dining-room, in which I had 
not yet been. The ladies and gentlemen were seated 
behind me, the servants, including Grant and some of 
the other Highlanders, opposite. And never was service 
more beautifully, touchingly, simply, and tenderly per- 
formed. There was the opening prayer, then the reading 
from Scripture, which was most beautifully selected as 
follows : the twenty-third chapter of Job, the forty-second 
Psalm, the fourteenth chapter of St. John, some of the 
first verses, and then from the twenty-third verse to the 
end, and the seventh chapter of Revelations to the end. 

( 144 ) 

All so applicable. After this came another prayer, and 
then the sermon, entirely extempore, taken from the twelfth 
chapter of the Epistle to the Hebrews to the thirteenth 
verse, also alluding to the tenth chapter, and occasionally 
turning to the Corinthians. The sermon was admirable, 
all upon affliction, God's love, our Saviour's sufferings, 
which God would not spare Him, the blessedness of 
suffering in bringing us nearer to our eternal home, where 
we should all be together, and where our dear ones were 
gone on before us. He concluded with another prayer, 
in which he prayed most touchingly for me. The 
children and I were much affected on coming upstairs. 

Monday, May 12. 

On coming home in the afternoon, Dr. Macleod 
came to see me, and was so clever, agreeable, kind, and 
good. We talked of dear Albert's illness, his readiness 
to go hence at all times, with which Dr. Macleod was much 
struck, and said what a beautiful state of mind he must 
always have been in how unselfish how ready to do 
whatever was necessary; and I exemplified this by describ- 
ing his cheerfulness in giving up all he liked and enjoyed, 
and being just as cheerful when he changed to other cir- 
cumstances, looking at the bright and interesting side of 
them ; like, for instance, going from here to Windsor and 
from Windsor to London, leaving his own dear home, 
etc., and yet being always cheerful, which was the reverse 
with me. He spoke of the blessing of living on with 
those who were gone on before. An old woman, he 
said, whom he knew, had lost her husband and several of 
her children, and had had many sorrows, and he asked 
her how she had been able to bear them, and she 
answered : ' Ah ! when he went awa' it made a great hole, 

( 145 ) 

and all the others went through it." * And so it is, most 
touchingly and truly expressed, and so it will ever be 
with me. 

Balmoral^ Sunday, August 24, 1862. 

At ten service was performed by Dr. Macleod down- 
stairs, again very beautifully. His selections were very 
good : the hundred and third Psalm, part of the eleventh 
chapter of Isaiah, and then before his sermon, the 
fourth chapter of Philippians, sixth verse, which was the 
text : " Be careful for nothing ; but in everything by 
arayer and supplication with thanksgiving let your re- 
quests be made known unto God," and part of the 
eleventh chapter of St. Luke, fifth verse : " Which of 
shall have a friend, and shall go unto him at midnight, 
and shall say unto him, Friend, lend me three loaves ? " 
As usual, it made a deep impression. 

After dinner, in the evening, I went over to Mrs. 
Bruce's room, and there Dr. Macleod joined us, and was 
so kind, so comforting, and so cheering. He expressed 
jreat admiration of my dearest Albert's statue (the cast 
of which was standing in the vestibule below). His eyes 
were full of tears, and he said his loss was felt more and 
more. I showed him a drawing of the mausoleum, and 
he said, " Oh ! he is not there," which is so true ; and 
again, when admiring the photograph of the reclining 
statue by Marochetti, he added, " But I think he is more 
like the statue below," which is a beautiful and a true 
idea. He looks so truly at the reality of the next life. 

* I since hear that this poor woman was not personally known 
k) Dr. Macleod, but that her remark was related to him by Dr. 
Black, his predecessor in the Barony Parish, Glasgow. Her words 
were : "When he was ta'en, it ma;le sic' a hole in my heart that a' 
other sorrows gang lichtly through." 

( '46 ) 

Sunday ', May 24, 1863. 

My poor birthday ! 

At a quarter past ten service was performed by Dr. 
Macleod. All the children but Baby there. He read 
the ninetieth and hundred and third Psalms ; part of 
the twenty-fourth chapter of St. Matthew, ninth verse : 
"All hail." His sermon very fine, but he read it, not 
having had time to prepare one by thinking the subject 
over, or even by the help of mere notes. I saw him in 
the evening, and he was most kind and sympathising. 

Sunday, October 9, 1864. 

At four, went to kirk with Lenchen and Augusta 
Stanley. Dr. Macleod performed the service admirably, 
and gave us a very striking sermon, all extempore, and 
appealing very strongly to the people's feelings. Saw 
good Dr. Macleod afterwards, and was much upset in 
talking to him of my sorrows, anxieties, and overwhelming 
cares ; and he was so kind and sympathising, so en-' 
couraging and full of that faith and hope which alone can 
comfort and sustain the broken heart. In his sermon he 
spoke of there being peace without happiness, and happiness* 
without peace, which is so true. 

Balmoral, Sunday, June n, 1865. 
At twelve, went (a great effort) to the kirk with the 
girls and the Duchess of Athole. I had only been once 
at the end of our stay last year in October, in the after- 
noon, and it made me very nervous. Still, as no one 
expected me to go, it was better so. Dr. Macleod per- 
formed the service most impressively. His sermon was 

( 147 ) 

from i Thessalonians iv. 10. No one reads the Bible 
better than he does, and his prayers were most beautiful. 
In the one for me, which he always words so expressively 
and touchingly, he prayed for Alix and her dear babe 
very beautifully. The singing and the whole service 
brought tears to my eyes. I felt so alone ! All reminded 
me of former blessedness. 

Balmoral, Saturday, October 14, 1865. 

After dinner Dr. Macleod gave us a long account of 
that dreadful Dr. Pritchard,* and his interviews with him. 
Never in his life had he seen anything so dreadful as 
this man's character and his wonderful untruthfulness. 

Dr. Macleod afterwards came upstairs, and read to 
Lenchen and me out of Burns most beautifully. 

Sunday, October 15, 1865. 

At twelve we went to the kirk, where dear Dr. Mac- 
leod performed the service more beautifully than I ever 
heard it. The sermon was touching, and most striking 
and useful. It touched and struck all. The text was 
from Genesis iii. 13 : " And the Lord God said unto the 
\voman, What is this that thou hast done ? " 

And then he showed how we all had a secret life 
which no one knew but God, and showed the frightful 
danger of living a life of deception till you deceived your- 
self, and no longer knew wrong from right. I wish I 
could repeat all he said, but it was admirable. Then in 
his beautiful prayers he brought in a most touching 
allusion to Lord Palmerston,f and prayed for him. 

* He had poisoned his wife and his wife's mother, and Dr. 
Macleod attended him in prison. 

f He was dying, and expired on October 18. 

L ?. 

( 143 ) 

Balmoral, Sunday, June 17, 1866. 

We went at twelve to the kirk, and Dr. Macleod gave 
us a beautiful sermon from St. Mark ix. 38, etc. It was 
very fine, so large-minded and charitable, much against 
party spirit and want of charity, and showed how thoroughly 
charity, in its highest form, existed in our Saviour. 

. . . The Duchess of Athole and Dr. Macleod dined 
with me. He was so amiable, and full of sympathy ; he 
also suffers much from constant work and worry, and must 
go abroad for relaxation. Told him how much I required 
it, and that I came here for it, and had had a hard fight 
for it He said he quite felt this, and entreated me 
" as you work for us " always to insist upon coming here. 
I said my dearest Albert had injured himself by never 
giving himself enough rest ; and we spoke of the absolute 
necessity of complete relaxation occasionally, and of the 
comfort of it. 

Balmoral, Sunday, September 16, 1866. 
The church was very full and the atmosphere very 
close. Dr. Macleod preached admirably, especially the 
latter part of the sermon, when he preached extempore, 
and spoke of our responsibilities which made us work out 
our salvation. God wished us all to be saved, but we 
must work that out ourselves. And we might by our own 
fault not be saved. The first part was read, he having told 
me the night before that he felt nervous, and must read it. 

Balmoral, Thiirsday, September 20, 1867. 
Good Dr. Macleod (who arrived yesterday, for two 
nights) came to talk to me for some little time while I 
was sitting out. He spoke most kindly, and said enough 

to show how shocked he was at my many worries, but 
said also that he was convinced of the great loyalty of 
the nation, and that I should take courage. 

On the next day, the 2ist, he came to take leave of 
me, as he was going to India, sent by the General 
Assembly to look after the missions. He is only going 
for six months ; still, his life is so valuable that it is a 
great risk. He was much affected in taking leave of me, 
and said, " If I should not return, I pray God to carry 
your Majesty through all your trials." 

Balmoral, Saturday, October 10, 1868. 
Mr. Van de Weyer and good Dr. Macleod, who is 
looking ill, and rather broken, and with a long beard, 
dined with us.* 

Sunday, October 11. 

All to kirk at twelve. Christian and Franz t sat in 
the Abergeldie pew. Dr. Macleod performed the service, 
and I never heard a finer sermon, or more touching prayer 
for me. The text, St. Luke ix. 33 : " Peter said unto 
Jesus, Master, it is good for us to be here . . . not 
knowing what he said." 

Saw Dr. Macleod, who talked, as also last night, of 
India, and of the disturbances in the Church. 

Balmoral, Sunday, June 6, 1 869. 

To kirk with Louise, Leopold, Baby (Beatrice), and 
Christian. Dr. Macleod (who arrived last night) performed 
the service, and admirably, speaking so much to the heart. 

* He had only lately returned from India, 
f The Prince and Princess Christian of Schleswig-Holstein and 
the Prince and Princess of Te :k were on a visit. 

( '5 ) 

The prayers were beautiful, and so was the sermon. It 
was so full of truth and simple good advice, telling us to 
act according to the spirit of what is told us, and according 
to what we felt was right The text from i Peter iv. 21. 
Afterwards saw dear Dr. Macleod, whom I find a good 
deal altered and aged. He is Moderator of the General 
Assembly for this year, and spoke with much pleasure of 
the unanimity prevailing, and of the good feeling shown 
towards him ; and regretted much this Irish Church Bill. 

Balmoral, Sunday, October 3, 1869. 

At twelve, went with our children to the kirk. Dr. 
Macleod preached a fine sermon, and gave us two 
beautiful prayers as usual. The text was from Matthew 
xxvi. 30. 

I saw Dr. Macleod before dinner. He is greatly 
alarmed for the Established Church of Scotland, as he 
fears that an attempt will be made to pull that down 
also ; though, thank God, there is no difference of form 
or doctrine there, and were this to happen, the Free 
Church and United Presbyterians, with the present 
Established Church, would become one very strong 
Protestant body. I also asked him about Lord Lome, 
and he said he had a very high opinion of him ; that he 
had long known him, and had prepared him for confirma- 
tion, that he thought very highly of him, and had a great 
respect for him, and that he had fine, noble, elevated 

Sunday, October 2, 1870. 

A very fine morning after a frost. The sun intensely 
hot. Dear Leopold breakfasted with us out of doors. 
Sat out for a short while. To the kirk at twelve. It was 
not so stifling. Dr. Macleod gave us such a splendid 

sermon on the war, and without mentioning France, he 
said enough to make everyone understand what was meant 
(when he pointed out how God would punish wickedness, 
and vanity, and sensuality; and the chapters he read from 
Isaiah xxviii., and from Ezekiel, Amos, and one of the 
Psalms, were really quite wonderful for the way in which 
they seemed to describe France]. It was all admirable and 
heart- stirring. Then the prayers were beautiful in which 
he spoke of the sick, the dying, the wounded, the battle- 
field, and my sons-in-law and daughters. We all came 
back deeply impressed. 

Monday, October 3. 

Dr. Macleod came to wish me good-bye. He yester- 
day again told me what a very high opinion he had of 
Lord Lome, how good, excellent, and superior he thought 
him in every way, and the whole family so good. 

Balmoral, June , 1871. 

Dear Dr. Macleod was unable to come during my 
present stay here, having been unwell in the winter. He 
has gone abroad to Ems. 

Balmoral, Stinday, November 5, 1871. 
At a little before twelve, went to kirk with Baby and 
Janie Ely, for the first time after a very severe illness a 
great pleasure to me who am so fond of going to the 
dear little church here. Brown helped me up and down 
the steep staircase, but I found no great difficulty. Dr. 
Macleod (who arrived yesterday evening at the Castle) 
performed the service, which he made purposely rather 
short for me. He gave us a beautiful sermon, the text 
from St. Matthew vi. 9 : "Our Father, who art in 
heaven ; " and he preached upon the great importance, 

as well as comfort, of our looking on God as a Father, 
and not as a judge or "magistrate," to use a homely 
phrase. He also gave an admirable explanation of the 
Sacrament, which he announced was to be given next 
Sunday, explaining that it was not a miracle, which people 
often consider it to be. Back by quarter past one, much 

He came to see me before dinner. 

Monday, November 6, 1871. 

Had a long and satisfactory talk with Dr. Macleod 
after luncheon to-day again. 

Balmoral, Sunday, May 26, 1872. 

To kirk at twelve, with Baby and the ladies, etc. Dr. 
Macleod preached a very fine sermon, full of love and 
warm feeling, upon future life and hope. The text was 
from St. Matthew v. 9, " Thy kingdom come." But I 
was grieved to see him looking ill. 

After luncheon saw good Dr. Macleod, who was very 
depressed and looking very ill, and willingly sat down 
at my request. He said he was quite broken down from 
hard work, and would have to give up his house in 
Glasgow (where he has not a moment's rest), and his 
Indian mission work, etc. He feels all this much, but it 
is unavoidable. He did too much. He has never 
recovered from the effects of his visit to India. He is, 
however, going to America for some months, and has 
refused everything in the way of preaching and lectures. 
He talked much of a future life, and his certainty of there 
being a continuation there of God's educational purposes, 
which had commenced in this world, and would work on 
towards the final triumph of good over evil, and the 
extinction of sin. 

Balmoral, Monday, May 27, 1872. 
Saw and wished good Dr. Macleod good-bye, with 
real regret and anxiety. Towards the end of dinner, 
yesterday, he cheered up, having hardly talked at all 
during the course of it. 

Balmoral, Sunday, June 16, 1872. 
We had come home at five minutes past eight ; I had 
wished Brown good-night, and was just going to my 
dressing-room, when he asked to come in again and say 
a few words to me. He came in, and said, very kindly, 
that he had seen Colonel Ponsonby, and that there was 
rather bad news of Dr. Macleod, who was very ill, in fact 
that they were afraid he was dead ! Oh ! what a blow ! 
How dreadful to lose that dear, kind, loving, large-hearted 
friend ! My tears flowed fast, but I checked them as much 
as I could, and thanked good Brown for the very kind 
way he broke this painful and most unexpected news to 
me. I sent for and told Leopold, who was quite stunned 
by it, and all my maids. Every one was most deeply 
grieved the Duchess of Athole, Janie Ely, Miss Mac- 
Gregor, Colonel Ponsonby, and Dr. Taylor, who was so 
overcome as hardly for some time to be able to speak. The 
loss, he and we all felt, was quite irreparable. Dr. Taylor 
knew (which I did not) that he had been very ill for a week, 
and that he might die at any moment, and that the long 
and most admirable speech which he made in the 
Assembly had been far too much for him. That was on 
the 3oth. Still we all hoped that rest would have re- 
stored him. How thankful I felt that I had seen him so 
lately ! When the Duchess came upstairs, we could speak 
of little else. After she left, and I was alone, I cried very 
bitterly, for this is a terrible loss to me. 

( 154 ) 

Monday, June 17. 

When I awoke the sad truth flashed upon me, which 
is doubly painful, as one is unaware of the reality on 
first waking. 

After breakfast, when I thought of my dear friend 
Dr. Macleod, and all he had been to me how in 1862- 
63-64 he had cheered, and comforted, and encouraged 
me how he had ever sympathised with me, and how 
much I always looked forward to the few occasions I had 
of seeing him when we went to Balmoral, and that this 
too, like so many other comforts and helps, was for ever 
gone I burst out crying. 

Yesterday evening we heard by telegraph from Mr. 
Donald Macleod (for the first news came from the 
Glasgow telegraph clerk to Warren*) that his dear 
brother had died at twelve that morning. 

I telegraphed to all my children, and could think of 
nothing else. I try to dwell on all he said, for there was 
no one to whom in doubts and anxieties on religion I 
looked up with more trust and confidence, and no one 
ever reassured and comforted me more about my children. 
I remember that he expressed deep satisfaction at hearing 
such good accounts of them. . . . And then he seemed 
so full of trust and gratitude to God. He wrote a 
beautiful letter to Janie Ely on his birthday (June 3), in 
answer to my inquiries after him, of which I annex the 
copy. His words seemed almost prophetic ! 

June 3, 1872. 

Dear Lady Ely, Whether it is that my head is empty 
or my heart full, or that both conditions are realised in my 

* My own telegraph clerk. 

experience, the fact, however, is that I cannot express myself 
as I feel in replying to your Ladyship's kind far too kind 
note, which I received when in the whirlwind or miasma of 
Assembly business. 

Thanks deep and true to you, and to my Sovereign Lady, 
for thinking of me. I spoke for nearly two hours in the 
Assembly, which did me no good, nor, I fear, to any other. 

I was also to preach yesterday. As I have nice summer 
quarters, I much hope to recruit, so as to cast off this dull, 
hopeless sort of feeling. 

I ought to be a happy, thankful man to-day. I am to- 
day sixty, and round my table will meet my mother, my 
wife, and all my nine children, six brothers, sisters, and two 
aunts one eighty-nine, the other seventy-six ; and all these 
are a source of joy and thanksgiving ! Why such mercies 
to me, and such sufferings as I often see sent to the rest on 
earth ? 

God alone knows ! I don't see how He always acts as a 
wise, loving, and impartial Father to all His children. What 
we know not now, we shall know hereafter. Let us trust 
when we cannot trace. 

God bless the Queen for all her unwearied goodness ! I 
admire her as a woman, love her as. a friend, and reverence 
her as a Queen ; and you know that what I say I feel. Her 
courage, patience, and endurance are marvellous to me. 

(Signed) N. MACLEOD. 

March 1873. 

Dear Dr. Macleod likewise came to Balmoral, and 
preached there, on the following occasions : October n, 
1863, May 24, 1864 (my birthday, after his visit to the 
Holy Land}, on May 27, 1867, and on May 29, 1869. 

When I last saw him I was greatly distressed at his 
depression and sadness, and instead of my looking to 
him to cheer and encourage me, I tried to cheer him. 
He said he had been ordered to give up all work, and 

to give up his house at Glasgow, merely continuing to 
preach at the Barony Church ; and that then they gave 
him hopes of a recovery, but it was not at all certain. 
He must give up the Indian Mission, which was a great 
sorrow to him ; and he meant to take the opportunity of re- 
signing it in person, to say what he felt so strongly, though 
others might not be pleased. He meant to go to America 
in August, merely to recruit his health and strength ; and 
he had refused every invitation for dinners, or to lecture 
or preach. He had not much confidence, he said, in his 
recovery, but he might be wrong. All was in God's 
hands. " It is the nature of Highlanders to despond 
when they are ill," he added. He hoped God would 
allow him to live a few years longer, for his children, 
and to be able to go on with " Good Words." He dwelt 
then, as always, on the love and goodness of God, and 
on his conviction that God would give us, in another 
life, the means to perfect ourselves and to improve 
gradually. No one ever felt so convinced, and so anxious 
as he to convince others, that God was a loving Father, 
who wished all to come to Him, and to preach of a 
living personal Saviour, One who loved us as a brother 
and a friend, to whom all could and should come with 
trust and confidence. No one ever raised and strength- 
ened one's faith more than Dr. Macleod. His own faith 
was so strong, his heart so large, that all high and low, 
weak and strong, the erring and the good could alike 
find sympathy, help, and consolation from him. 

How I loved to talk to him, to ask his advice, to 
speak to him of my sorrows, my anxieties ! 

But, alas ! how impossible I feel it to be to give any 
adequate idea of the character of this good and distin- 
guished man ! So much depended on his personal charm 
of manner, so warm, genial, and hearty, overflowing with 

kindness and the love of human nature ; and so much 
depended on himself, on knowing and living with hin^ 
that no one who did not do so can truly portray him. 
And, indeed, how can any one, alas, who has not known 
or seen a person, ever imagine from description what he 
is really like ? 

He had the greatest admiration for the beauties of 
nature, and was most enthusiastic about the beautiful 
wild scenery of his dear country, which he loved intensely 
and passionately. When I said to him, on his last visit, 
that I was going to take some mineral waters when I 
went south, he pointed to the lovely view from the 
windows, looking up the glen of the Dee, and said : " The 
fine air in these hills, and the quiet here, will do your 
Majesty much more good than all the waters." His 
wife, he said, had urged him to come, though he felt so 
ill. " It always does you good to go to Balmoral" she 
told him. He admired and loved the national music of 
his country, and wrote the following description of it, 
most kindly, as a preface to a book of Pipe Music 
published by my head piper, William Ross: 


The music of the Highlands is the pibroch of the great 
war-pipe, with its fluttering pennons, fingered by a genuine 
Celt, in full Highland dress, as he slowly paces a baronial 
hall, or amidst the wild scenery of his native mountains. 
The bagpipe is the instrument best adapted for summoning 
the clans from the far-off glens to rally round the standard 
of their chiefs or for leading a Highland regiment to the 
attack amidst the roar of battle. The pibroch is also con- 
structed to express a welcome to the chief on his return to 
his clan, and to wail out a lament for him as he is borne by 

( '58 ) 

his people to the old burial-place in the glen or in the 
sainted Isle of Graves. To those who understand its care- 
fully composed music there is a pathos and depth of feeling 
suggested by it which a Highlander alone can fully sympa- 
thise with ; associated by him as it always is with the most 
touching memories of his home and country ; recalling the 
faces and forms of the departed ; spreading forth before his 
inward eye panoramas of mountain, loch, and glen, and 
reviving impressions of his early and happiest years. And 
thus, if it excites the stranger to laughter, it excites the 
Highlander to tears, as no other music can do, in spite of 
the most refined culture of his after life. It is thus, too, 
that what appears to be only a tedious and unmeaning 
monotony in the music of the genuine pibroch, is not so to 
one under the magic influence of Highland associations. 
There is, indeed, in every pibroch a certain monotony of 
sorrow. It pervades even the " welcome," as if the young 
chief who arrives recalls the memory of the old chief who 
has departed. In the "lament" we naturally expect this 
sadness ; but even in the " summons to battle," with all its 
fire and energy, it cannot conceal what it seems already to 
anticipate, sorrow for the slain. In the very reduplication 
of its hurried notes, and in the repetition of its one idea, 
there are expressions of vehement passion and of grief 
"the joy of grief," as Ossian terms it, which loves to brood 
upon its own loss, and ever repeats the one desolate thought 
which fills the heart, and which in the end again breaks 
forth into the long and loud agonising cry with which it 
began. All this will no doubt seem both meaningless and 
extravagant to many, but it is nevertheless a deliberately 
expressed conviction. 

The characteristic poetry of the Highlands is Ossian, its 
music the pibroch ; and these two voices embody the spirit 
and sing the praises of " Tir na'm Beann, na'n Gleann's na 
Gaisgeach " (" the land of the mountains, the glens, and the 
heroes : '). 

I said I was sure he would rejoice to think that it 
was a Highlander who had seized O'Connor,* and he 
replied, " I was deeply thankful to hear it." 

He possessed a keen sense of wit and great apprecia- 
tion of humour, and had a wonderful power of narrating 
anecdotes. He had likewise a marvellous power of win- 
ning people of all kinds, and of sympathising with the 
highest and with the humblest, and of soothing and com- 
forting the sick, the dying, the afflicted, the erring, and 
the doubting. A friend of mine told me that if she were 
in great trouble, or sorrow, or anxiety, Dr. Norman Mac- 
leod was the person she would wish to go to ! And so it 
was ! One felt one's troubles, weaknesses, and sorrows 
would all be lovingly listened to, sympathised with, and 
entered into. 

I detected a sign of illness in dear Dr. Macleod's ac- 
cepting, contrary to his ordinary usage, my invitation to 
him to sit down, saying he could not stand well ; and I 
afterwards heard he had complained greatly of fatigue in 
walking back from the kirk. I said I feared India had 
done him harm. He admitted it, but said, " I don't 
regret it." I expressed an earnest hope that he would be 
very careful of himself, and that on his return at the end 
of October he would take Balmoral on his way. 

When I wished him good-bye and shook hands with 
him, he said, " God bless your Majesty," and the tears 
were in his eyes. Only then did the thought suddenly 
flash upon me, as I closed the door of my room, that I 
might never see this dear friend again, and it nearly over- 
came me. But this thought passed, and never did I think, 
that not quite three weeks after, his noble, pure spirit 

* The young man who rushed up to my carriage with a petition 
and a pistol in Buckingham Palace Garden on February 29, 1872, 
and was seized by Brown. 

( 160 ) 

would be with the God and Saviour he loved and served 
so well ! I have since heard that he mentioned to several 
at Balmoral that he thought he should never come there 

I will here quote from my Journal some part of an 
account of my conversations at Balmoral on August 24 
and 25, 1872, with Dr. Macleod's excellent and amiable 
brother, the Rev. Donald Macleod, about his dear brother 
Norman : 

" He (Norman) was a complete type in its noblest 
sense of a Highlander and a Celt, which, as Mr. Donald 
Macleod and I both observed, was peculiarly sympathetic, 
attaching, and attractive. I said that since my great sor- 
row in 1 86 1, I had found no natures so sympathetic and 
so soothing as those of the Highlanders. . . . He (Donald 
Macleod) said, ' I went to him for everything ; he was 
like a father to me (he is twenty years his junior) ! His 
indefatigable kindness to every one was unequalled, and 
his patience was so great and he was so good.' His acts 
of kindness to people whom he did not know were fre- 
quent and unknown even to his family. His sense of 
humour and fun was unbounded, and enabled him to win 
the confidence of persons of the greatest diversity of cha- 
racter. Mr. Donald Macleod thinks, however, that it was 
a mercy his dear brother was taken when he was, for that 
a life of inactivity, and probable infirmity, would have been 
unbearable to him. ... His health had been unsatis- 
factory already before he went to India, but, no doubt, 
that journey had done him great harm; still he never 
would have spared himself, if he thought there was a work 
given to him to do. . . . His wife and children bore up 
wonderfully because he had taught them to look on the 

( 161 ) 

future state so much as a reality, and as one of such great 
happiness, that they felt it would be doing wrong not to 
rejoice in his joy. His faith was so strong that it held 
others in a marvellous manner, and he realised the future 
state and its activity, as he believed, in a most remarkable 


Tuesday, September 9, 1873. 

Got up at ten minutes to seven, and breakfasted with 
Beatrice at twenty minutes past seven. The morning was 
splendid. At five minutes past eight I left Balmoral with 
Beatrice and Jane Churchill in the landau and four 
(Brown on the rumble) for Ballater, whither General 
Ponsonby and Dr. Fox had preceded us. We had our 
own comfortable train ; Jane Churchill came with us. 
Emilie Dittweiler, Annie Macdonald, Morgan, and Max- 
tead (Jane's maid) went in the dresser's compartment, 
and Francie with dear Noble,* with Brown next to me. 
After crossing the Bridge of Dun, where we were at half- 
past eleven, we had some cold luncheon, and by a quarter 
to one we were at Stanley Junction, where we left the main 
line from Aberdeen to the south, and turned into the 
Highland Railway. Here, alas ! the distance became 
indistinct, the sky grey, and we began fearing for the 
afternoon. At one we passed the really beautiful valley 
of Dunkeld, catching a glimpse of the cathedral and the 
lovely scenery around, which interested Beatrice very 
much, and made me think of my pleasant visits and ex- 
cursions thence ; then passed opposite St, Crime's, the 

* Another favourite and splendid collie. 

Duchess's farm, by Dalguise, and saw the large Celtic 
cross at Logiemit, put up to the late Duke of Athole ; 
then Pitlochry ; after which we passed through the mag- 
nificent Pay o/ -Killiekrankie, which we just skirted in 
our long drive by Loch Toy and Loch Tummel'm. 1866. 
The dull leaden sky which overhung Dunkeld continued, 
and soon a wtyte veil began to cover the hills, and slight 
rain came down. 

We passed close by Blair, which reminded me much of 
my sad visit there in 1863, when I came by this same line 
to visit the late Duke ; and I could now see the great im- 
provements made at the Castle. From here the railway 
(running almost parallel with the road by which we went 
so happily from Dahvhinnie the reverse way in 1861) 
passes Dalnaspidal Station a very lonely spot then up 
Drumouchter, with Loch Garry and Loch Ericht, fine and 
wild, but terribly desolate and devoid of woods and 
habitations, and so veiled by mist and now beating rain 
as to be seen to but very -little advantage. Next comes 
Dalwhinnie Station, near the inn where we slept in 1861, 
having ridden over from Balmoral to Glen Fishie, and 
thence down by Newton More ; consequently, the distance 
across the hill is comparatively nothing, though, to avoid 
posting in uncertain weather, we had to come all this way 
round. At thirty-five minutes past two we reached Kin- 
gussie. The station was decorated with flowers, heather, 
and flags, and the Master of Lovat (now Lord Lieutenant 
of Inverness-shire) and Cluny Macpherson (both of course 
in kilts) were there. We waited till all our things were 
put into our carriage, and then got out, in heavy rain at 
that moment. We three went in the sociable, General 
Ponsonby and Brown on the box, Dr. Fox and my maids 
in the waggonette, the other maids and Francie with the 
log and the remainder following in two other carriages. 

M 2 

We passed through the village of Klngitssie, where there 
were two triumphal arches and decora aons, and some of 
Cluny's men drawn up, and then .^n> to the left 

up amongst the hills, through tfcp *c.ry fT4r long viiiige 
of Newton More (which Annie MaoiumaW. kite 
husband came from there, had never s*n. hu- which r,r 
had driven through in 1861), and on an^t'-st deso-.-iic, 
wild, heathery moors. The road skirts tne Spey, whrh 
meanders through a rich green valley, hills rising grandly 
in the distance and on either side. We passed the rock 
of Craig Dhu, and a castle amongst trees, where there 
was an arch, and the owner and his family standing 
near it, and where a nosegay was presented to me. Next 
we came to Cluny Castle, at the gate of which stood 
Mrs. Macpherson with her family. We stopped after we 
had gone past, and she came and presented me with a 

From here the road was known to me, if I can call 
going once to see it in 1847 knowing it. Very few in- 
habitants, and not one village after Newton More, only 
miserable little cottages and farmhouses, with a few people, 
all very friendly, scattered about here and there. We 
changed horses first at Laggan Bridge, having crossed the 
Spey over a large stone bridge, which I well remember ; 
it is near Strathmashie. Here we stopped a few minutes; 
and a little girl presented me with a nosegay, and the 
innkeeper gave Brown a bottle with some wine and a glass. 
We were preceded the whole way by the postmaster of 
Banavie, who supplied the horses; he was called McGregor, 
and wore a kilt. We had only a pair of horses all alom 
and after the first stage excellent ones. The roads ad- 
mirable hardly any hills, though we drove through sucr 
a hilly, wild country. The rain had ceased, and onlj 
occasional showers came on, which did not prevent 01 

seeing the very grand scenery, with the high finely pointed 
and serrated mountains, as we drove along. Shortly after 
changing horses we left the river and came to the beauti- 
ful Loch Laggan, seven miles in length, along which the 
drive goes under birch, mountain-ash laden with bright 
berries, oak, alders, in profusion, and is really beautiful. 
I was quite pleased to see the loch again after twenty- five 
years recognised it and admired its beauty, with the 
wooded promontories, its little bays, and its two little 
islands, its ferry (the only communication to the other 
side), and the noble hills, the two Ben Alders. 

We stopped, soon after passing the ferry, in a very 
secluded spot at five, and had our (made) tea in the 
carriage, which was very refreshing. We at length came 
opposite Ardverikie, which I so well remember, recalling 
and relating, as we now drove along, many of the incidents 
of our month's stay there, which was as wet as this day. 
Sir John Ramsden, who has bought the property, was 
standing with some other people by the roadside. At the 
head of the loch is May Lodge, a pretty little place in the 
style of Ardverikie, at which Mr. Ansdell, the artist, is 
staying. A little beyond this we changed horses at May 
(only a single house), and drove along through Glen Spean, 
which is very fine and grand in some parts, the road look- 
ing down upon the rapid, rushing, gushing river, as it 
whirls along imbedded in rocks and overhung with wood, 
while high ranges of hills, fine and pointed in shape, are 
seen in the distance rising peak upon peak. Along this 
road I had driven, but I had forgotten it. Before coming 
to the Bridge of Roy Inn, we saw some of the celebrated 
Parallel Roads quite distinctly, which are more clearly 
seen farther on, and which are very interesting to all 
geologists as being supposed to mark the beaches of an 
inland lake, which was pent back by a great glacier in 

( 166 ) 

Glen Spean, and subsided to different levels, as the glacier 
sank or broke away at three successive periods. 

The rain ceased, and we walked a little before coming 
to the Bridge of Roy, where we changed horses for the 
last time, and directly afterwards passed a triumphal arch 
with heather and inscriptions, pipers playing, etc., and 
Highlanders as well as many other people drawn up, but 
we unfortunately drove past them too quickly. There was 
an inscription in Gaelic on one side, and on the other 
" Loyal Highlanders welcome their Queen." The papers 
say that it was put up by Mrs. McDonell siKeppoch. 

About three miles farther on we reached Spean Bridge, 
and it was already getting dark. Here there is only an 
inn, and Lord and Lady Abinger and their tenantry met 
us. Lord Abinger said he had been requested to express 
the people's thanks for my honouring their country with 
a visit, and his little girl presented me with a large nosegay 
in the name of the tenantry. We then drove on through 
rather desolate moors, and the rain began to fall again 
very heavily. It became quite dark, and we could just 
descry mountains under which we drove. At ten minutes 
past eight we arrived at Inverlochy, entering by a lodge, 
which was lit up and looked cheery enough. The house 
is entered through a small, neat-looking hall, and I have 
three nice rooms upstairs, with the maids close by, and 
Beatrice and Morgan also, just at the other side of the 
passage. My sitting-room is very nice. It was nine before 
we got to dinner, which I took with Beatrice and Jane, 
Brown waiting on us as well as Cannon* (the footman). 
The drawing-room is a large, rather handsome and well- 
furnished room. We soon went up to our rooms, and 
all were glad to go to bed. 

* He left my service ia 1879. 

Inverlochy Castle, Wednesday, September 10. 
Mist on all the hills, and continuous rain ! Most 
disheartening, but the views from the house beautiful, 
especially from my sitting-room, which has a bow- window 
with two small ones on either side, looking towards Ben 
Nevis (which is close in front of it), and commands a 
lovely view of Fort William (farther to the right), and of 
Loch Linnhe, etc., a portion of Loch ^//(pronounced Loch 
Eel] which runs up a long way, nearly twelve miles, with 
the fine Moidart range, close to Glen Finnan, as a back- 
ground ; and this, with Banavie and the hotel, close to 
the Caledonian Canal, is distinctly seen from the other 
window. This very pretty little room does not open into 
any other ; next to it is Emilie Dittweiler's, next to that 
my dressing-room, and Annie's room, all narrow and long, 
and next again is a really large and also long room, my 
bedroom, in which I had my own bed, which has been 
to Switzerland, Invertrossachs, Sandringham, and Baden. 
Downstairs is the dining-room, a good-sized room (in 
which the gentlemen dine), also the drawing-room, and 
a small library, in which we take our meals. No room 
in the house opens into another. Though some of the 
bedrooms are larger than those at Invertrossachs, the 
servants are not so well off. After breakfast (which, as 
well as luncheon, Beatrice and I always took alone) at 
half-past nine, went upstairs again and looked at Brown's 
room, which is a few steps lower than mine, in fact, only 
a very small bath-room. Beatrice is just opposite where 
I am, or rather round the corner. Jane Churchill and 
the two gentlemen, upstairs, have also good rooms. As 
the rain did not cease, Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and I 
walked out in the grounds to the stables, which we looked 

* M 4 

( 168 ) 

at, then out at the lodge and as far as the farm, where, 
however, no beasts were at the time, and on coming home 
we went through the house and kitchen, servants' hall, 
etc., and were in at a quarter to one. There were short 
gleams of sunshine which lit up the splendid scenery, and 
I sketched from my window looking up to Banavie. 

Played with Beatrice on the piano. The day seemed 
better, but again and again the sunshine was succeeded 
by heavy showers ; still we determined to go out. So at 
twenty minutes to five we three started in the sociable, 
Brown on the box, with a pair of horses and a postilion 
who drove extremely well. We drove past the distillery 
(between this and Fort William), then turned to the right 
over the suspension bridge to JBanavie, about a mile far- 
ther, where there is a good hotel, quite close to the Cale- 
donian Canal, which we crossed by a bridge, and drove 
through Corpach, a very small village, where the horses 
made a halt and turned another way, and Brown said 
nearly put us into a ditch ! but we soon got all right 
again, having to go on a little way to turn. We went 
along the upper part of Loch Eil, the sea loch, on which 
Fort William stands. It is very narrow at first, and then 
widens out into a large broad loch as you approach the 
head of it, beyond which is the very fine range of the 
Moidart Hills, high and very serrated and bold. These 
are close to Glen Finnan. The road is excellent and not 
hilly, though it skirts the hills the whole time and is 
very winding, with much wood, so that you drive a good 
deal under trees, ash, oak, alder, and the mountain ash 
which is now laden with red berries. The bright heather, 
growing in tufts of the richest colour mixed with a great 
deal of high tall bracken which is beginning to turn, has 
a lovely effect. Here and there were some very poor 
little huts, most miserable, of stone, wretchedly thatched 

( 169 ) 

with moss and grass, and weeds growing on the roofs, very 
dirty and neglected-looking, the little fields full of weeds 
choking the corn, and neglected bits of garden, bushes 
and brambles growing into the very window ; and yet 
generally the people who looked most poor had a cow ! 

We passed Fassifern, which belonged to the father of 
the Colonel Cameron killed at Quatre Bras, now merely 
a farmhouse, and surrounded by fine trees. I think the 
drive to near the head of the loch must have been nearly 
ten miles ! It was a beautiful drive, in spite of the fre- 
quent heavy showers of rain. 

We came home at twenty minutes to eight. Good 
accounts of Leopold, but the weather has been bad. 
Dined as yesterday. Played on the piano with Beatrice 
in the drawing-room, and then we went upstairs. 

Thursday, September 1 1. 

A pouring wet morning after a pouring wet night. 
Could not go out all the morning. It, however, cleared 
up in the afternoon, and became very bright and fine. 
Just as we decided to go out at a quarter past four, it 
began raining again ; however, as I left with Beatrice and 
Jane in the sociable, it cleared, and was very fine for some 
time. We drove out the way we came on Tuesday as 
far as Spean Bridge, and then turned sharp to the left 
along the Spean, under fine trees which abound in the 
valleys, and in view of scattered birches which creep up 
the hills. We changed horses after passing High Bridge 
and an old neglected-looking churchyard, from which a 
funeral party was evidently returning, as we met " a good 
few" (i.e. a good many) farmers in black, and saw the 
gate open and a spade near it. The road ascends to High 
Bridge, commanding a very fine view over the Ben Nevis 

range and the hills above Loch Lochy, of which, as we 
approached the Caledonian Canal and came to a lock, 
we caught a glimpse. We changed horses at Gairlochy 
before crossing the canal, by the side of which flows the 
Lochy. The road ascends and goes along the western 
side high above the canal and river, commanding a splendid 
view of Ben Nevis and the surrounding range of hills, 
" the Grampians" The road is, as all the roads here are, 
very good and most picturesque, winding through trees, 
with small and wretched but picturesque cottages with 
little bits of fields dotted here and there and with High- 
land cattle grazing about. It was again rainy and show- 
ery after we came to Gairlochy. We came down again 
to Benavie, the hotel at which seems excellent, and were 
at home by a quarter-past six. Beatrice and Jane took 
some tea in the dining-room, and then took a short walk 
in the grounds, cpming in at seven. Wrote. It was still 
raining, but not blowing. Played after dinner on the 
piano with Beatrice, and then went upstairs, and Jane 
Churchill read. 

Friday ', September 12. 

A most beautiful bright sunshiny day. After break- 
fast Mr. Newton, the artist, brought some lovely sketches. 
Sketched and painted, for the views are quite lovely, from 
my room. At eleven drove in the waggonette with 
Beatrice and Jane Churchill, General Ponsonby being on 
the box with Brown, to and through Fort William, 
which is three miles and a half from Inverlochy, passing 
the celebrated Ben Nevis Distillery, which is two miles 
from here, and through a triumphal arch, just beyond 
the bridge over the Nevis Burn, by an old, very ne- 
glected graveyard, to the right, in which is an obelisk to 
McLachan, a poet, and past the Belford Hospital, a neat 

building, built by a Mr. and Mrs. Belford; then a little 
farther on, entered the town, where there was a triumphal 
arch, the fort, now private property, belonging to Camp- 
bell of Monzie. Here Glencoe came to take the oath to 
King William III. 

The town of Fort William is small, and, excepting 
where the good shops are, very dirty, with a very poor 
population, but all very friendly and enthusiastic. There 
are four churches (Established, Free Church, Episco- 
palian, and Roman Catholic). We drove on along Loch 
Eil (called Loch Linnhe below Corran ferry) a mile, and 
turned at Achintee, and down to old Inverlochy Castle, 
which is nearer to Fort William than the new castle. 
We got out to look at the ruin, but it is uninteresting, as 
there is so little of it and literally nothing to see. About 
a quarter of a mile from the house we got out and walked; 
home by half-past twelve. 

Friday, September 12. 

At a quarter-past three, the day being most splendid, 
started with Beatrice and Jane Churchill, the two gentle- 
men following in the waggonette (with Charlie Thomson 
on the box), and drove by Banavie, the same road we 
came home yesterday, as far as where we crossed the 
canal at Gairlochy only, instead of going down to it, we 
kept above, and went to the left: it is a beautiful road, 
coming in sight of Loch Lochy, which, with its wooded 
banks and blue hills, looked lovely. Leaving the main 
road, we turned into a beautiful drive along the river 
Arkaig, in Lochiel's property, reminding one very much 
of the Trossachs. 

As you approach Achnacarry, which lies rather low, 
but is surrounded by very fine trees, the luxuriance of 
the tangled woods, surmounted by rugged hills, becomes 

finer and finer till you come to Loch Arkaig, a little over 
half a mile from the house. This is a very lovely loch, 
reminding one of Loch Katrine^ especially where there is 
a little pier, from which we embarked on board a very 
small but nice screw steamer which belongs to Cameron 
of LochieL 

He received us (wearing his kilt and plaid) just above 
the pier, and we all went on board the little steamer. 
The afternoon was beautiful, and lit up the fine scenery 
to the greatest advantage. We went about halfway up 
the Loch (which is fourteen miles long), as we had not 
time to go farther, to the disappointment of Lochiel, who 
said it grew wilder and wilder higher up. To the left (as 
we went up) is the deer forest; to the right he has sheep. 

Both sides are beautifully wooded all along the lower 
part of the fine hills which rise on either side, and the 
trees are all oaks, which Cameron of Lochiel said were 
the "weed of the country," and all natural none were 
planted. A good many grow up all the hollows and 
fissures of the hills and rocks. Right ahead, where we 
turned, was seen a fine conical-shaped hill called Sconr- 
na-nat, and to the left Glenmally, to the north Mitir Logan, 
and Giusach and Gerarnan on either side. Before we 
came to the turning we three had our tea, which was very 
refreshing. I tried to sketch a little, but the sun shone 
so strongly that I could not do much. 

Mr. Cameron, who was with Lord Elgin in China, 
came and explained everything, and talked very pleasantly. 
His father had to let this beautiful place, and Lord 
Malmesbury had it for fifteen years. The Cannings used 
to go there, and I often heard Lady Canning speak of its 
beauties, and saw many pretty sketches which she made 
there. Thirteen years ago his father died, and he has 
lived there ever since. Alfred was there in 1863. 

It was, as General Ponsonby observed afterwards, a 
striking scene. " There was Lochiel," as he said, 
"whose great-grand-uncle had been the real moving 
cause of the rising of 1745 for without him Prince 
Charles would not have made the attempt showing 
your Majesty (whose great-great-grandfather he had 
striven to dethrone) the scenes made historical by Prince 
Charlie's wanderings. It was a scene one' could not look 
on unmoved." 

Yes ; and / feel a sort of reverence in going over 
these scenes in this most beautiful country, which I am 
proud to call my own, where there was such devoted 
loyalty to the family of my ancestors for Stuart blood is 
in my veins, and I am now their representative, and the 
people are as devoted and loyal to me as they were to 
that unhappy race. 

We landed at the little pier, but walked over the 
small bridges (the carriages following) on which a piper 
was playing a few hundred yards to a gate (on the side 
opposite to that by which we came), where we got into 
the carriages again. We drove through a beautiful road 
called the Dark Mile dark from the number of very 
- fine trees which overhang it, while on the left it is 
overshadowed by beetling rocks with a rich tangled 
undergrowth of bracken and heather, etc. The heather 
grows very richly and fully in these parts, and in thick 
tufts. We saw here the cave in which Prince Charles 
Edward was hid for a week. We came out of this road 
at the end of Loch Lochy, which looked lovely in the 
setting sun, and drove along the water's edge till nearly 
where we joined the road by which we had come. It is 
all Lochiel's for a long way a splendid possession. 

And now came the finest scene of all Ben Nevis and 
its surrounding high hills, and the others in the direction 

( 174 ) 

of Loch Laggan, all pink and glowing in that lovely after- 
glow (Afycngluhcn\ which you see in the Alps. It was 
glorious. It grew fainter and fainter till the hills became 
blue and then grey, and at last it became almost quite 
dark before we reached Banavie, and we only got home 
at a quarter-past eight. As we drove out I sketched 
Ben Nevis from the carriage. 

Quantities of letters. The post comes in after eight 
and goes out at ten, which is very inconvenient. 

Our usual little dinner only, about nine. 

Saturday, September 13. 

Another splendid morning, of which we were very 
glad, as we meant to go to Glencoe, which was the 
principal object of our coming here. Our nice little 
breakfast as usual. Sketching. 

At eleven we started, just as yesterday, Francie Clark* 
and Cannon going on the box of the second carriage. 
We drove through Fort William, on as we did yesterday 
morning by Achintee, and down the eastern side of Loch 
Eil, which was beautifully lit, the distant hills intensely 
blue. The cottages along the roadside here and there 
hardly deserve the name, and are indeed mere hovels 
so low, so small, so dark with thatch, and overgrown 
with moss and heather, that if you did not see smoke 
issuing from them, and some very ragged dirty old people, 
and very scantily clothed, dishevelled children, you could 
not believe they were meant for human habitations. 
They are very picturesque and embedded in trees, with 
the heathery and grassy hills rising above them, and 
reminded me of Switzerland. There were poor little 
fields, fuller of weeds than of corn, much laid by the 

* My Highland servant since 1870, and cousin to Brown. 

wet, and frequently a " calvie " or " coo " of the true shaggy 
Highland character was actually feeding in them. 

The road, which runs close above the loch, commands 
an excellent view of the fine noble hills on the opposite 
side of the loch. At Corran Ferry* (eleven miles) are 
seen across the loch Cofiaglen, and Ardgour, Lord 
Morton's, at the entrance of a very fine glen. He has 
bought a large property in these parts, which formerly 
belonged to the Macleans. South of Corran Ferry the 
loch is called Loch Linnhe, and the road turns inland 
westwards, soon after passing up along the shore of Loch 
Lez'en, which is, in fact, also an arm of the sea. After 
three miles we passed a few cottages called Onich, the 
high hills of Glencoe beginning already to show. All was 
so bright and green, with so much wood, and the loch so 
calm, that one was in perpetual admiration of the scenery 
as one went along. Four miles more from Corran Ferry 
brought us to Ballachulish at a little before one o'clock. 
The situation of the hotel the large one on the opposite 
side, at the foot of the hills close to the ferry, is extremely 
pretty. - There was a smaller and less handsome inn on 
the north side, by which we had come. Here we got 
out, after all our things cloaks, bags, luncheon baskets, 
etc. had been removed from the carriage, which we had 
to leave, and walked down to the boat. The small 
number of people collected there were very quiet and 
well behaved. Beatrice and Jane Churchill and I, with 
General Ponsonby and Brown, got into the boat, and 
two Highlanders in kilts rowed us across to the sound of 
pipes. On the opposite side there were more people, 
but all kept at a very respectful distance and were very 
loyal. A lady (a widow), Lady Beresford, who owns the 
slate quarries, and her daughter, in deep mourning, were 

* Here Alfred got his very favourite Skye terrier Corran. 

at the landing-place, and one of them presented me with 
a bouquet. We got at once into two carriages (hired, but 
very fair ones), Beatrice, Jane, and I in a sort of low 
barouche, Brown on the box. We had a pair of horses, 
which went very well. The two gentlemen occupied the 
second carriage. The drive from Ballachulish^ looking 
both ways, is beautiful, and very Alpine. I remember 
Louise, and also Alice, making some sketches from here 
when they went on a tour in 1865. 

We went on, winding under the high green hills, and 
entered the village of Ballachulish, where the slate 
quarries are, and which is inhabited by miners. It was 
very clean and tidy a long, continuous, straggling, 
winding street, where the poor people, who all looked 
very clean, had decorated every house with flowers and 
bunches or wreaths of heather and red cloth. Emerging 
from the village we entered the Pass of Ghncoe, which 
at the opening is beautifully green, with trees and 
cottages dotted about along the verdant valley. There 
is a farm belonging to a Mrs. MacDonald, a descendant 
of one of the unfortunate massacred MacDonalds. The 
Cona flows along the bottom of the valley, with green 
" haughs," where a few cattle are to be seen, and sheep, 
which graze up some of the wildest parts of this glorious 
glen. A sharp turn in the rough, very winding, and in 
some parts precipitous road, brings you to the finest, 
wildest, and grandest part of the pass. Stern, rugged, 
precipitous mountains with beautiful peaks and rocks 
piled high one above the other, two and three thousand 
feet high, tower and rise up to the heavens on either side, 
without any signs of habitation, except where, half-way 
up the pass, there are some trees, and near them heaps of 
stones on either side of the road, remains of what oncC' 
were homes, which tell the bloody, fearful tale of woe. 

The place itself is one which adds to the horror of the 
thought that such a thing could have been conceived 
and committed on innocent sleeping people. How and 
whither could they fly? Let me hope that William III. 
knew nothing of it. 

To the right, not far on, is seen what is called Ossiarfs 
Care ; but it must be more than a thousand feet above 
the glen, and one cannot imagine how any one could live 
there, as they pretend that Ossian did. The violence 
of the torrents of snow and rain, which come pouring 
down, has brought quantities of stone with them, which in 
many parts cover the road and make it very rough. It 
reminds me very much of the Devil's Bridge, St. Gothard, 
and the Gbschenen Pass, only that is higher but not 
so wild. When we came to the top, which is about ten 
miles from Ballachulish, we stopped and got out, and we 
three sat down under a low wall, just below the road, 
where we had a splendid view of those peculiarly fine 
wild-looking peaks, which I sketched. 

Their Gaelic names are No. tri Peath raichean (the Three 
Sisters), but in English they are often called " Faith, Hope, 
and Charity." 

We sat down on the grass (we three) on our plaids, and 
had our luncheon, served by Brown and Francie, and 
then I sketched. The day was most beautiful and calm. 
i Here, however here, in this complete solitude, we were 
I spied upon by impudently inquisitive reporters, who 
followed us everywhere; but one in particular (who 
writes for some of the Scotch papers) lay down and 
[watched with a telescope and dodged me and Beatrice 
land Jane Churchill, who were walking about, and was 
Iraost impertinent when Brown went to tell him to move, 
jwhich Jane herself had thought of doing. However, he 
[did go away at last, and Brown came back saying he 


thought there would have been a fight ; for when Brown 
said quite civilly that [the Queen wished him to move away, 
he said he had quite as good a right to remain there as 
the Queen. To this Brown answered very strongly, upon 
which the impertinent individual asked, " Did he know 
who he was ? " and Brown answered he did, and that " the 
highest gentleman in England would not dare do what 
he did, much less a reporter " and he must move on, or 
he would give him something more. And the man said, 
"Would he dare say that before those other men (all re- 
porters) who were coming up ? " And Brown answered 
" Yes," he would before " anybody who did not behave 
as he ought." More strong words were used ; but the 
others came up and advised the man to come away quietly, 
which he finally did. Such conduct ought to be known. 
We were there nearly an hour, and then began walking 
down a portion of the steep part. 

The parish clergyman, Mr. Stewart, who had followed 
us up, and who had met us when we arrived at Balla- 
chutish, explained the names of the hills, and showed the 
exact place of the dreadful massacre. He also said that 
there were many Episcopalians there from the old Jacobite 
feeling, and also Roman Catholics. 

There was seldom frost in the glen, he said, but there 
was a good deal of snow. 

A short distance from where Ossian's cave is shown 
there is a very small lake called Loch Treachtan, through 
which the Cona flows ; and at the end of this was a cottage 
with some cattle and small pieces of cultivated land. 
We drove down on our return at a great pace. As we' 
came through Ballachulish the post-boy suddenly stopped, 
and a very respectable, stout-looking ojd Highlander 
stepped up to the carriage with a small silver quaich, out 

( '79 ) 

of which he said Prince Charles had drunk, and also my 
dearest Albert in 1847, an d begged that I would do the 
same. A table, covered with a cloth and with a bottle 
on it, was on the other side of the road. I felt I could 
hardly refuse, and therefore tasted some whisky out of it, 
which delighted the people who were standing around. 
His name, we have since heard, is W. A. Cameron. 

We drove to the same small pier where we had dis- 
embarked, and were rowed over again by two Highlanders 
in kilts. The evening was so beautiful and calm that the 
whole landscape was reflected in the lake. There is a 
high, conical-shaped hill, the commencement of the Pass 
of Glencoe, which is seen best from here ; and the range 
of hills above Ardgour and Corran Ferry opposite was 
of the most lovely blue. The whole scene was most 
beautiful. Three pipers played while we rowed across, 
and the good people, who were most loyal and friendly, 
cheered loudly. We re-entered our carriages, and drove 
off at a quick pace. When we were on the shores of 
Loch Eil again, we stopped (but did not get out) to take 
tea, having boiled the kettle. The setting sun cast a 
most glorious light, as yesterday, on Ben Nevis and the 
surrounding hills, which were quite pink, and gave a 
perfectly crimson hue to the heather on the moor below. 
The sky was pink and lilac and pale green, and became 
richer and richer, while the hills in the other direction, 
over Fort William, were of a deep blue. It was wonder- 
fully beautiful, and I was still able to make, or at least 
begin, a sketch of the effect of it, after we came home at 
a quarter to seven, from Beatrice's window. 

Resting and writing. Leopold has had far less fine 
weather for his excursion than we have had. 

Sunday ', September 14. 

It was dull, and there had been some rain, but it 
cleared, and the day was fine, though not bright. 

At twenty minutes past eleven walked out with 
Beatrice. We walked first to look at the kitchen garden, 
which is large, and has some very nice hot-houses with 
good grapes. From here we went out by the lodge, 
meeting not a soul, and past the farm, going down a 
road on the left to a small burn, over which there is a 
foot-bridge. Finding, however, that it only led to a 
keeper's house, Brown advised us to return, which we ac- 
cordingly did, coming by the back and the stables, and 
in at ten minutes to one o'clock. Rested, wrote, and then 
read prayers with Beatrice, and part of Mr. Campbell's* 
sermon, which Beatrice was so pleased with that she 
copied it entirely. Luncheon as usual. Painted and 
finished the view looking towards Fort William. 

At five drove out with Beatrice and Jane Churchill in 
the waggonette. We drove past the distillery ; and then 
just beyond the bridge, which must be very little over two 
miles from Inverlochy, we turned off the main road. We 
drove up for four miles along the Nevis, a fine rapid burn 
rolling over large stones and almost forming cascades in 
one or two places, under fine trees with very steep green 
hills rising on either side, and close under and along the 
base of Ben Nevis, which rose like a giant above us. It 
was splendid ! Straight before us the glen seemed to 
close ; halfway up we came to a large farm, the drive to 
which is under an avenue of ash trees. But there is no 
other habitation beyond this of any kind ; and soon after 
the trees become fewer and fewer, though still a good 
* The newly appointed minister at Crathie. 

many grow at the burnside and up the gullies of the hills. 
Sheep were grazing at a great height. The road became 
so rough and bad that we got out and walked almost a 
mile, but could go no farther. We were delighted with 
the solemn solitude and grandeur of Glen Nevis ; it is 
almost finer than Glencoe. There was no one when we 
first entered the glen, but as we walked back we met 
several people coming out to look. After getting into 
the carriage again, I stopped a little to take a rough 

The farm belongs to Mrs. Campbell of Monzie, only 
daughter of the late Sir Duncan Cameron of Fassifern, 
who owns a good deal of Ben Nevis. Every hill has a 
name, but I cannot remember them, though I have them 
written down by the keeper at Inverlochy. As it was still 
a little too early to go home, we drove as far as the Fort 
and turned back, coming in at a quarter past seven. 
Writing. The post comes in at a most inconvenient hour, 
a little past eight. 

Dinner as usual. My favourite collie Noble is always 
downstairs when we take our meals, and was so good, 
Brown making him lie on a chair or couch, and he never 
attempted to come down without permission, and even 
held a piece of cake in his mouth without eating it, till 
told he might. He is the most " biddable " dog I ever 
saw, and so affectionate and kind ; if he thinks you are 
not pleased with him, he puts out his paws, and begs in 
such an affectionate way. 

Jane Churchill read. 

Monday, September 15. 

The mist hung about the hills, but the sun struggled 
through. It was very mild and became beautiful. We 
decided to go up GJenfinnan and to lunch out. Painted 

( 182 ) 

and finished two other sketches looking up Loch Eil 
and towards JBanavie, and then wrote, after which at a 
quarter to twelve took a short turn in the grounds with 

At twenty minutes to one started with Beatrice and 
Jane Churchill in the sociable (Brown going each day of 
course with us on the box), the two gentlemen following 
(with Francie Clark and Charlie Thomson), and drove 
past Banavie through Corpach and up Loch Eil. When 
we had come to the head of the loch, the road turned 
towards the right, winding along through verdant valleys, 
with that noble range of Moidart before you, rather to the 
left. In one valley, which became very narrow after 
passing a large meadow in which they were making hay, we 
turned into a narrow sort of defile, with the stream of the 
Finnan flowing on as slowly as an English river, with 
trees and fir trees on the rocks, and unlike anything I had 
seen in Scotland^ and then you come at once on Loch 
Shiel (a freshwater loch), with fine very high rugged hills 
on either side. It runs down twenty miles. 

At the head of the loch stands a very ugly monument 
to Prince Charles Edward, looking like a sort of light- 
house surmounted by his statue, and surrounded by a 
wall. Here it was that he landed when he was brought 
by Macdonald of Borradale whose descendant, now 
Macdonald of Glenaladale, has a house here (the only 
habitation to be seen) to wait for the gathering of the 
clans. When Prince Charlie arrived at the spot where 
the monument stands, which is close to the loch and 
opposite to Glenfinnan (the road we came going past it 
and on up a hill to Arisaig^ twenty-five miles farther on), 
he found only a dozen peasants, and thought he had been 
betrayed, and he sat down with his head in his hands. 
Suddenly the sound of the pipes aroused him, and he saw 

the clans coming down Glenfinnan. Soon after the Mac- 
donalds appeared, and in the midst of a cheering host 
the Marquis of Tullibardine (Duke of Athole but for his 
attainder) unfurled the banner of King James. This was 
in August 1745. In 1746 poor Prince Charles was a 
fugitive hiding in the mountains on the sides of I^ch 
Arkaig and Loch Shiel. As we suddenly came upon 
Loch Shiel from the narrow glen, lit up by bright sunshine, 
with the fine long loch and the rugged mountains, which 
are about three thousand feet high, rising all around, no 
habitation or building to be seen except the house of 
Glcnaladale, which used to be an inn, and a large pictur- 
esque Catholic church, reminding one, from its elevated 
position to the right and above the house, of churches 
and convents abroad, I thought I never saw a lovelier or 
more romantic spot, or one which told its history so well. 
What a scene it must have been in 1745 ! And here was 
7, the descendant of the Stuarts and of the very king 
whom Prince Charles sought to overthrow, sitting and 
walking about quite privately and peaceably. 

We got out and scrambled up a high hillock off the 
road, where I lunched with Beatrice and Jane Churchill 
and then sketched, but did not attempt to colour. We 
walked about a little, and then came down to the road to 
speak to Mr. Macdonald of Glenaladale, whom General 
Ponsonby had been to speak to, and who had never seen 
me. He is a stout, robust-looking Highlander of about 
thirty and a widower. He is a Catholic, as are all the 
people in this district. The priest is his uncle, and lives 
with him. He showed me some curious relics of Charles 
Edward. An old-fashioned, strange silver snuff " mull " 
which had been given by him to Macdonald's ancestor, 
with the dates 1745 and 1746 engraved on it, for ztBorra- 
dah Prince Charlie slept for the last time in Scotland ; a 

watch which had belonged to him, and a ring into which 
some of his fair hair had been put, were also shown. 

This is the district called Moidart, and from the 
highest hills the Isle of Skye is seen distinctly. Lord 
Morton's property comes up close to Loch Shiel, and to 
the right are Lochiel, etc., and Macdonald of Glenaladale 's 
in front, at the head of the loch. The family used to 
live at Borradale near Arisaig, but acquired Glenaladale 
from the former Macdonalds of Glenaladale who emi- 
grated to Prince Edward's Island after the Forty-five. 

Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and Brown went up with 
Mr. Macdonald to the top of the monument, but said the 
ascent was very awkward and difficult. General Ponsonby 
had been into the church, and said it was very expensively 
and handsomely decorated, but we have since heard 
there are only about fifty people in the neighbourhood. 
We left this beautiful spot about half-past four, having 
spent two hours there. The evening was not so bright 
as on Friday and Saturday, and there was no after-glow 
on the hills, Ben Nevis having its top covered with mist, 
as it often has. The horses were tired, and went rather 
sloAvly. I observed a flower here, which I have not seen 
with us at Balmoral, viz., instead of the large white 
daisies* "Marguerites," as the French call them, and of 
which such numbers are seen in the fields in England 
there is a large yellow one,f just the same in form, only 
the petals are bright yellow. 

The heather, as I before observed, is of a very full and 
rich kind, and, as we drove along, we saw it on the old 
walls, growing in the loveliest tufts. We met those dread- 
ful reporters, including the man who behaved so ill on 
Saturday, as we were coming back. We got home at 

* Chrysanthemum Leticanthemimt, White ox-eye daisy. 

t Chrysanthemum segctiun, Yellow ox-eye or corn marigold. 

twenty minutes past six. Had some tea. Wrote and put 
everything in order. All had been settled about money 
to be given, etc. Our last nice little dinner, which I 
regretted. Came up directly after and wrote. 

Tuesday, September 16. 

Had to get up by seven, and Beatrice and I breakfasted 
at a quarter to eight. The morning was fine. 

The real name of the place used to be Torlundy, 
which is the name of the " lochie, " or " tarn," below the 
house, in the middle of which there is a little island on 
which there are ducks. The property, which is very large, 
sixty-four miles in extent, was purchased from the late 
Duke of Gordon by the late Lord Abinger, who began a 
house, but it was burnt down ; the present Lord built this 
one, in fact, only ten years ago, and added to it since. He 
has called it Inverlochy Castle, after the old fortress, which 
is supposed to have belonged to the Pictish kings, but the 
present ruin is thought to date from the time of Edward I. 
The Marquis of Montrose defeated the Marquis of Argylc 
there in 1645, an incident described in Sir Walter Scott's 
" Legend of Montrose." 

At a quarter-past eight we left Inverlochy Castle, 
where we had spent very pleasant days. The gentlemen 
had gone on before. 

We drove to Banavie, where a good many people were 
assembled, and stepped on board the steamer which was 
on the Caledonian Canal. Here were Lord and Lady 
Abinger, whom I thanked very much for their kindness. 
I left an illustrated copy of my book and prints of Albert's 
and my portraits at Inverlochy for Lord Abinger. She is 
an American lady from the Southern States, a Miss 
Macgruder, and they have five children, of whom one 

( i86 ) 

only is a boy. They left the steamer, and we began moving. 
The steamer is called the " Gondolier." It is built on the 
same principle as the one we had on Loch Lomond, with 
a fine large cabin with many windows, almost a deck cabin 
(though it is down one flight of steps), which extends 
through the ship with seats below, open at the sides far 
forward. In this large cabin sixty-two people can dine. 
We remained chiefly on deck. We steamed gently along 
under the road by which we had driven from Gairlochy 
and Achnacarry, Lochiel's to the left or west, and Lord 
Abinger's to the right. Ben Nevis, unfortunately, was hid 
in the mist, and the top invisible, which we hear is very 
generally the case. 

We came to one lock, and shortly afterwards to Gair- 
lochy , after which you enter Loch Lochy. The Caledonian 
Canal is a very wonderful piece of engineering, but travel- 
ling by it is very tedious. At each lock people crowded 
up close to the side of the steamer. As the river rises from 
Banavie to Loch Oich (which succeeds Loch Lochy}, the 
canal has to raise the vessels up to that point, and again 
to lower them from Loch Oich to Inverness. The vessel, 
on entering the lock from the higher level, is enclosed by 
the shutting of the gates. The sluices of the lower gates 
are raised by small windlasses (it was amusing to see the 
people, including the crew of the steamer, who went on 
shore to expedite the operation, which is not generally 
done, run round and round to move these windlasses), 
and holes are thus opened at the bottom of the lower 
gates, through which the water flows till the water in the 
lock sinks to the lowest level. The lower gates are then 
opened, as the water is on the lowest level, while the 
upper gates keep back the water above. The same pro- 
cess raises the ships in the lock which ascend. About 
five or six feet can be raised or depressed in this manner 

at each lock. (I have copied this from an account 
General Ponsonby wrote for me.) 

As we entered Loch Lochy, which looked beautiful, 
we saw where Loch Arkaig lay, though it was hid from us 
by high ground. The hills which rise from Loch Lochy 
are excellent pasturage for sheep, but the lower parts are 
much wooded. After eight miles' sail on Loch Lochy we 
came to Loch Oich, which is entered by another lock at 
Laggan. Here Mr. and Mrs. Ellice (who is a first cousin 
of the Greys) were waiting, and came on board. They 
had wished me to get out and drive round their fine place, 
Invergarry, to rejoin the steamer at the next lock, but I 
declined, preferring to remain quietly on board, though 
the process of going through the locks is slow and neces- 
sarily tedious. It is nervous work to steer, for there is 
hardly a foot to spare on either side. Mrs. Ellice went 
on shore again, having given us some fine grapes, but Mr. 
Ellice remained on board till the next lock, Cullochy. A 
road much shaded runs along the side of the loch, and 
here we passed the small monument by its side, put over 
the well into which a number of heads of some of the 
MacDonalds, who had murdered two of their kinsmen of 
Keppoch, were thrown after they had been killed in revenge 
for this act, by order of MacDonald of the Isles. It was 
erected in 1812. We next came to the old ruined castle 
of Invergarry, embosomed in trees, close to which, but 
not in sight, is Mr. Ellice's new house. He has an im- 
mense deal of property here on both sides. The hills 
rise high, and one conically shaped one called Ben Tigh 
towers above the rest. At Cullochy Mr. Ellice left the 
steamer. Mr. Brewster, formerly Lord Chancellor of 
Ireland and nearly eighty years old, was standing on the 
shore here. Francie and one of the policemen got out 
with good Noble, and walked to meet us again at Fort 

Augustus. While we were stopping to go through one of 
the locks, a poor woman came and brought us a jug of 
milk and oat-cake, which with their usual hospitality the 
country people constantly offer. 

After this, and at about ten minutes past twelve, 
Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and I went below and had some 
hot luncheon. The people from the locks looked down 
upon us, but it was unavoidable. We had now reached 
Fort Augustus, where there was again some delay and a 
great many people, and where there was a triumphal arch. 
Here on this very day thirty-six years ago my beloved Albert 
passed, and he saw poor Macdonald the Jager here, and 
took a liking to him from his appearance, and, being in 
want of a Jager, inquired after him and engaged him. 
He was keeper to Lord Digby and Colonel Porter then, 
and brought some game for dearest Albert from them, 
and Albert was greatly struck by his good looks. He was 
very handsome, especially in the kilt, which he habitually 

There had been a heavy shower, but it was over when 
we came up on deck again. We entered Loch Ness here. 
It is twenty-four miles long, and broad, the banks wooded, 
with many pretty places on them. We passed Invermor- 
riston in Glen Morriston* the property of the Grants of 
Glen Morriston. Foyers, the celebrated falls, which are 
much visited, could just be seen, but not the falls them- 
selves. Everywhere, where there were a few houses or 
any place of note, people were assembled and cheered. 

Next, to the left comes the very fine old ruin of Castle 

* In former editions this property was erroneously said to belong 
to Sir George Brooke Micldleton. He was at this time tenant of , 
the shootings. The property now belongs .by inheritance to 
Lieutenant I. R. J. Murray Grant, 1st Battalion Queen's Own 
Cameron Highlanders. 

U/'qit/tart, close upon the Loclian Rocks, where there 
were again a great many people. The Castle has stood 
several sieges, and one in particular in the fourteenth 
century in the reign of Edward I. It belongs to Lord 
Seafield (head of the Grants), who has a very large pro- 
perty here, and whose own shooting-place, Balmacaan, 
is up in the glen just beyond. The fine mountain of 
Mcalfourvonie rises above it. It is two thousand seven 
hundred feet high, but the peak alone is seen from here. 
I tried to sketch a little, but in vain, the wind in my face 
was so troublesome. 

At about twenty minutes to four (or half-past three) 
we passed Dochfour House, Mr. Baillie's, which I think 
stands rather low, and in which Albert passed this night 
twenty-six years ago. A few minutes more brought us to 
Dochgarroch, quite a quiet place, but where a good many 
people had assembled. We waited to see every one and 
all our luggage landed and packed in and off before we 
stepped on shore. It was an amusing sight. There must 
have been two or three carriages besides o-urs. The last 
to drive off was the one in which Morgan, Maxted, and 
Lizzie Stewart* got, with Francie Clark and Noble on the 
box. Mr. Baillie and Lady Georgiana, whom I had not 
seen for long, were at the end of the landing platform, as 
well as Mr. Evan Baillie and Mrs. Colville, their son and 
daughter. Two little girls put down bunches of flax for 
me to walk upon, which it seems is an old Highland 
custom. There is a small village where we landed. Lady 
Georgiana Baillie is quite an old lady, aunt of the Duke 
of Manchester, and grand- daughter of the celebrated 
Duchess of Gordon. 

Beatrice, Jane, and I got into a hired (not very 
beautiful) open landau (on the rumble of which Brown 

* My second wardrobe maid since 1879, a native of Balmoral. 

sat, as in crowds it is much safer to have a person close 
behind you) with a pair of post-horses and a postilion. 
In the second carriage went General Ponsonby, Emilie 
Dittweiler (sitting next to him), Dr. Fox, and Annie, 
every available place being necessary. We were escorted 
by the 7th Dragoon Guards, which was thought better on 
account of the great crowds in Inverness, where no Sove- 
reign had been seen since my poor ancestress Queen Mary. 

The mixture of half state and humble travelling (we 
being in our common travelling dresses) was rather 

The evening was beautiful, and Inverness looked 
extremely well on the blue Moray Frith. We passed a 
magnificent building, which is the county Lunatic 
Asylum. We had to drive six miles to the town, through 
a small portion of which only we passed, and had to 
drive quickly, as it was late. The streets were full of 
decorations and arches, and lined with volunteers. Great 
order prevailed, and the people were most enthusiastic. 
The fine-looking old Provost was there, and the Master 
of Lovat, who walked up along the station with us. A 
great squeeze, which Brown, having a great heap of 
cloaks etc. to carry, had some difficulty in getting through. 
But every one, including the dog, got safe in, and we 
travelled by train as before. We went the same way as 
last year, but never stopped till we got to Keith, where 
last time our door got wrong. After this, about six, we 
had some warm tea and cold meat, which was very 
refreshing. A fine evening. 

We reached Ballater at five minutes to nine, and 
started at once in the open landau and four, preceded 
by the outrider with the lamp. There were a few drops 
of rain, but very slight. At twtnty minutes to ten we 
reached Balmoral safely, very thankful that all had gone 
off so well. 

AUGUST 1874. 

Saturday, August 29, 1874. 

At a quarter to two started in the landau and four 
with Beatrice and Lady Abercromby, Brown in full 
dress on the rumble. It was raining, so we kept the 
carriage shut, but there were decided symptoms of 
clearing, and by the time we reached Ballater the sun 
began to shine, and the rain ceased as I got out. 

The train with Alfred and Marie had already arrived, 
and Marie got out as I advanced. Alfred was already 
out of the carriage. I kissed them, and then, with 
Marie, Alfred, and Beatrice, got in again, the carriage 
being open, and it was very fine. Marie wore a brown 
travelling dress with a hat. When we reached the 
bridge we went slowly. The Ballater company of 
volunteers, to the number of thirty (kilted in Farquharson 
tartan), were next it, and from here to the arch, and 
beyond it, stood all our people in full dress with their 
families, and all the tenants of the three estates with 
theirs, also the ladies and gentlemen. The pipers walked 
in front playing, and our keepers and others, who wore 
full dress, on either side (Brown remaining in his place 
on the carriage), followed by all the other people. 

In this way we proceeded through the arch up to 
Balmoral, just as when Helena arrived, only then there 
were fewer people. Leopold was in his carriage. We 
got out at the door of the Castle, and then Dr. Robertson 
proposed the health of Alfred and Marie, which was 
drunk by all with cheers. Then two reels were danced, 
after which we took Marie and Alfred to their rooms 
downstairs, and sat with them while they had tea. 

( 193 ) 


Balmoral, Friday, September 17, 1875. 
Coming home from our drive at twenty minutes past 
seven, we had passed Bertie's carriage in the Balloch 
Buie, but we heard no sound of a carriage when we 
went downstairs for dinner a little before nine, and Alix 
[Princess of Wales] had also not arrived. Their people 
having come, we consulted with Charlotte Knollys* what 
to do, and sent to beg Alix to come and order Bertie's 
things to be brought to the Castle. At length, at half- 
past nine, Bertie arrived, very hot, having lost his way 
and been separated from the others. He had got four 
stags (and had been lucky altogether), and he asked us 
to go to dinner. We accordingly sat down Lenchen, 
Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and Lord Carnarvon. Christian 
had gone on to look after Bertie, but he soon returned. 
j Only at ten did Alix arrive, and at ten minutes past ten, 
Bertie ; and we did not get up from dinner till half-past 
ten. All the ladies and gentlemen came into the 
drawing-room after dinner, and all felt that this terrible 
parting was hanging over us. At eleven I took Bertie 

Lady to the Princess of Wales, eldest daughter of General Sir 
William Knollys, K.C.B., for many years at the head of the Prince 
of Wales's household. 

( 194 .) 

and Alix upstairs, and talked over various details of this 
anxious journey to India. Then it came to the saying 
good-night, and Bertie sent for Lohlein and Brown to 
come and take leave of him. I saw how that began to 
try him, and it grieved them. He shook hands with 
both, and I felt nearly upset myself when Brown shook 
him by the hand, and said : " God bless your Royal 
Highness, and bring you safe back ! " He also wished 
my maids good-bye, who were standing there. Poor 
dear Alix seemed to feel it much, and so did I, as I 
embraced them both several times, and said I would go 
to see them off next morning. 

Saturday, September 18. 

A dull and rather raw morning. Breakfasted alone 
(as Beatrice was not quite well, with a sort of chill) at 
nine in the cottage. 

At half-past nine I drove off with Lenchen to Aber- 
geldie. There we found all in considerable confusion. 
Bertie was out in the garden, where we waited a little 
while, and then I went up, and found poor Alix putting 
up her things in her bed-room the little girls there 
the maids not yet off. At length, at a quarter-past ten, 
they left. Dear Bertie wished all good-bye. Our ladies 
and gentlemen and all the people were assembled outside. 
Poor dear Beatrice was the only one absent. Christian 
had gone on before. Bertie shook hands with all; I 
wished him every possible success, and that God would 
bless and protect him during this long and anxious 
journey to the East. It was very sad to see him drive 
off with Alix and the boys (the little girls followed in 
another carriage), not knowing what might not happen, 
or if he. would ever return. May God bless him! 

( 195 ) 


Tuesday, September 21, 1875. 

We had a family dinner at twenty minutes to nine. 
At a quarter past ten left Balmoral with Beatrice and 
Jane Churchill, Brown on the rumble. We reached 
Ballater by eleven, when we took the railroad. General 
Ponsonby and Sir W. Jenner met us there. Emilie, 
Annie, Morgan (for Beatrice), Francie Clark, and the 
footmen, Cannon, Charlie Thomson, and Heir, went in 
attendance, as well as Baldry and three men of the police. 
The horses (six) with Bourner, Hutchinson, and Goddard 
with the luggage, had gone on in advance. We started 
immediately, and very soon after lay down. We went 
steadily and slowly, but I did not sleep very well. 

Inveraray, Wednesday, September 22. 
At eight we reached Tyndrum, a wild, picturesque, 
and desolate place, in a sort of wild glen with green hills 
rising around. Here we breakfasted in the train, Brown 
having had the coffee heated which we had brought made 
with us, and some things coming from the nice-looking 
hotel. The morning was beautiful, just a little mist on 
the highest hills, which cleared off. There are a few 
straggling houses and a nice hotel at this station, where 

O 2 

( 196 ) 

we got out and where Lord and Lady Breadalbane met 
us, as this is his property. The day was beautiful. 

We got into the sociable (that is, Beatrice, Jane 
Churchill, and I) with a pair of posthorses, Brown and 
Francie Clark on the box, the two gentlemen and four 
maids in a waggonette following, and further behind the 
unavoidable luggage with the footmen, etc. The road 
lay up a broad glen, with green hills on either side, on 
one of which are lead mines belonging to Lord Breadal- 
bane. It was very winding, very rough, and continually 
up and down, and we went very slowly. Looking back, 
behind Tyndrum was a fine range of hills which are in 
the forest of the Black Mount. Passed the entrance of 
a broad glen with many trees called Glenorchy (the second 
title of Breadalbane), and saw all along where the rail- 
way is being made. A small stream flows at the bottom. 
To the left we saw Ben Luie ; then, as we descended, the 
country became more and more beautiful, with trees and 
copsewood sprinkled about, till we came to Dalmally, 
lying embosomed in trees, with Ben Cruachan and its 
adjacent range rising close before us, with the bluest 
shadows and tints on all the heights, and the sky pure 
and bright with a hot sun, though a good deal of air. 
Looking back, we still saw the other green hills from 
which we had come. 

As it approaches Dalmally the road goes under trees 
till you reach the inn, which stands quite alone. The 
church is beautifully situated at the bottom of the glen, 
and is surrounded by trees. There was no large crowd 
here, and the people behaved very well. . Dalmally is 
thirteen miles from Tyndrum. Four horses were put on 
here to drag us up the first hill, which was long and high, 
and brought us in view of Loch Awe^ which looked 
beautiful. Here the leaders were taken off. Loch Awe 

extends back a good way, and we could just see Kilchurn 
Castle, of historic celebrity, and the beautiful head of 
the loch with high hills on the right, and the islands of 
Tunis/tail and Ardchone, besides many smaller ones. 
On the first-named of these is said to be buried an 
ancestor of the Argylls. The loch is thirty miles in 
length, and as it stretches out and widens the hills become 
much flatter. We drove quite round the head of Loch 
Awe, then passed Cladich, and here the ground became 
very broken, and high hills were seen in the background, 
towering above the nearer ones. Bracken with birch 
and oak, etc., grow profusely among the green hills and 
rocks, much as they do near Inverlochy, Loch Eil, etc. 
Here and there were small knots of people, but not many. 
About five or six miles before Inveraray, at a place called 
Crais-na-Schleacaich, at the foot of Glen Aray, where 
the Duke's property begins, four of our own horses were 
waiting, and here dear Louise and Lome met us, looking 
pleased and well. Lome rode, and dear Louise got into 
her pony-carriage and drove after us. We soon after 
came to an arch with a Gaelic inscription " Ceud mille 
Failte do'n Bhan Rhighinn do Inerara" (A hundred 
thousand welcomes to the Queen to Inveraray]. A very 
stout tenant's wife, Mrs. McArthur, presented me with a 
nosegay, which a child she held in her arms gave me. 

On we went along Glen Aray, the road as we ap- 
proached Inreraray Castle being bordered on either side 
by trees. When we reached the gate there were two 
halberdiers, whilst others were posted at intervals along 
the approach, dressed in Campbell tartan kilts with brown 
coats turned back with red, and bonnets with a black 
cock's tail and bog-myrtle (the Campbell badge). With 
them were also the pipers of the volunteers. In front of 
the house the volunteers in kilts and red jackets, and the 

artillery volunteers in blue and silver, of whom Lome is 
the colonel, were drawn up, and a good many spectators 
were assembled. The Duke and Duchess of Argyll and 
their six girls were at the door : the outside steps are now 
under glass and made into a sort of conservatory. 

The Duke and Duchess took us upstairs at once to 
our rooms, part of which are Louise's ; very comfortable, 
not large but cheerful, and having a beautiful view of 
Loch Fyne. It was one when we arrived, and we lunched 
at two, only Louise, Beatrice, and Lome, in a nice room 
(in fact, the Duchess's drawing-room) with tapestry, at the 
foot of the stairs. Brown (who has attended me at all 
the meals since we came here) waited, helped by two or 
three of the Duke's people. After lunch we went into 
the large drawing-room, next door to where we had 
lunched in 1847, when Lome was only two years old. 
And now I return, alas ! without my beloved Husband, 
to find Lome my son-in law ! 

In the drawing-room I found Lord and Lady Dufferin 
(who are staying here) as well as Sir John and Lady 
Emma McNeill. She is the Duke's only sister, and he a 
very fine old man (now eighty), who was formerly my 
minister in Persia. Went upstairs to rest and sketch the 
splendid Ardkinglass Hills, from the window of the little 
turret which forms my dressing-room. Then had tea, 
and at half-past five drove out with Louise and Beatrice 
by the lodge called Creitabhille, through part of the wood 
or forest where the beeches are splendid, as also the 
spruces, on past Ballachanooran, by the upper road, green 
hills, trees, oaks, ferns, and broken ground all along, like 
at Loch Eil, past Achnagoul, a little village lying close 
under the hill, to the Douglas Water, a small rapid stream. 
Here we turned back and went along this pretty little 
mountain stream, past some cottages and a small farm 

( 199 ) 

and then came upon the shore of Loch Fyne, the drive 
along which is lovely. As we drove, the setting sun 
bathed the hills in crimson, they had been golden just 
before, the effect was exquisite. Looking up and down 
the shores, the view was lovely, and the reflections on the 
calm surface of the lake most beautiful. 

We drove back through the small town of Inveraray, 
which is close to the gates of the Castle, and looks pretty 
from my window with its small pier, where we landed in 
1847, and near to which there is a curious old Celtic 
cross. There are two inns, three churches, and a jail, for 
it is a county town. On coming home we walked a little 
in the garden close to the house, and came in at ten 
minutes past seven. Resting. Writing. Dinner at half- 
past eight in the room in which we lunched. The Duke 
and Duchess, Louise, Beatrice, and Lady Churchill dined 
with me. Then went for a short while into the drawing- 
room, where, besides the family, which included Lord 
Colin, were Dr. MacGregor, Mr. Donald Macleod, and 
Mr. Story (all clergymen staying in the house), and the 
following gentlemen : Lord Ardmillan (who was there for 
the assizes), Mr. Campbell, of Stonefield (Convener of the 
county of Argyll), Mr. and Mrs. Hector Macneal, of 
Ugadale, etc. Mr. Macneal showed me a brooch which 
had some resemblance to the Brooch of Lome, and had 
been given by King Robert Bruce to one of his ancestors. 

Thursday, September 23. 

This sad anniversary, when my beloved sister was 
taken from me, whom I miss so continually, returns for 
the third time. 

A fine morning. Breakfasted in my sitting-room at a 
quarter to ten with Louise and Beatrice. My sitting-room 

( 200 ) 

is generally Louise's bedroom, which had been specially 
arranged by her for me, and in the recess the Duchess 
had placed a picture of Balmoral, copied from A. Becker's 
picture. This opens into a small apartment, generally 
used as Lome's dressing room, in which my maid Annie 
sleeps and the two maids sit, next to which comes the 
bedroom, at the end of which is the nice cozy little turret- 
room with two windows, one of which looks on the loch 
with the very fine Ardkinglass Range in front, and the 
other on the front door, the bridge, and splendid trees. 
My dresser, Emilie Dittweiler, is next door to my bed- 
room, and Beatrice next to her in Louise's sitting-room. 

At a little after eleven I walked out with Louise and 
Beatrice along the approach, and then turned up through 
the wood and up the lower walk of Ditnaquoich, the hill 
opposite the house, which is wooded nearly to the top, 
on which is a tower, and walked along under magnificent 
trees, chiefly beeches and some very fine spruces, that re- 
minded me of Windsor Park and Reinhardtsbrunn. We 
walked on some way, passed a well and a small cottage, 
where the poultry is kept, where there is a funny good- 
natured woman called Mrs. McNicholl, who kissed Louise's 
hand and knelt down when I came up, and said to 
Louise, when she heard I was coming, "How shall I speak 
to her ? " We went into the little cottage, where another 
old woman of eighty lives. She looked so nice and tidy 
with a clean white mutch. We then walked down and 
came back along the river, which flows quite close to the 
house into the sea, and is full of fish. We were in at 
twenty minutes to one. Luncheon at two, just like 
yesterday. The day was dull, but quite fair and clear. 
Drawing and painting. 

At a quarter-past four drove out with Louise, Beatrice, 
and the Duchess, in my waggonette, driven by Bourner. 

After going for some distance the same way as yesterday 
afternoon, we turned into a wooded drive, leading to the 
Glen of Essachosan, where there are the most beautiful 
spruces, and some silver firs which reminded me in height 
and size of those on the road to Eberstein, near Baden, 
and on by what they call the Queen's drive, made for me 
in 1871, past Lechkenvohr, whence there is a fine view of 
the loch and surrounding hills, Ben Een, Ben Bute, etc. 
The road is very steep going down to the Curling Pond 
and Black Bull Cottage ; then over Carlonnan Bridge 
down to some falls, and back along the approach to the 
Dim Loch, under the avenue of fine old beeches, which, 
joining as they do, almost form an aisle. Eleven, alas ! 
were blown down two years ago : they were planted by 
the Marquis of Argyll two hundred years ago. You come 
rapidly upon the Dhu Loch, a small but very pretty loch 
a complete contrast to our Dhu Loch, for this is sur- 
rounded by green and very wooded hills, with the ex- 
tremely pretty and picturesque Glen Shira in the back- 
ground, which is richly wooded. We drove along the 
right bank of the Shira River, up as far as the small farm 
of Drum Lee, most prettily situated on the hillside some 
way up, passing one or two other farms one especially, 
a very strange old building. We took our (made) tea, 
and Elizabeth (the Duchess) greatly admired the con- 
venient arrangement (viz. the bag into which cups etc. 
are fitted), and then drove back the same way and along 
.the shore road. Home at ten minutes to seven. A 
charming drive, but there was a very high and cold wind. 
Louise, Beatrice, the Duchess of Argyll, Lord and 
Lady DufTerin, and Sir John and Lady Emma McNeil! 
dined with me, as yesterday. Went again for a short while 
into the drawing-room, where the Duke presented some 
pther people the sheriff, Mr, F. A, Irvine of Drum (in 

( 202 ) 

Aberdeen shtre\ Mr. J Malcolm QiPoltalloch (a fine-looking 
man, whose son, a tall large man, dined here yesterday, 
and whose daughter has just married Mr. Gathorne Hardy's 
son), and Sir G. and Lady Home, who live just outside 
the town : he is sheriff-depute, and she a niece of Sir F. 
Grant. Went upstairs with Beatrice and Jane Churchill, 
Louise always remaining below. 

Friday, September i^,. 

Raining and blowing. Breakfasted with my two dear 
daughters. The rain ceased, and at a little past twelve I 
walked with Louise and Beatrice up by the lodge at the . 
stables, which are in the " Cherry Park" and looked at 
our horses and Louise's, and saw a little dog, the daughter 
of Louise's poor old Frisky ; and then walked along at the 
back of the stables, where the trees are very fine most 
splendid silver firs and then back by the kitchen-garden 
and the straightest path, past a magnificent Scotch fir of 
great height and circumference. In at twenty minutes 
past one. It was dull and dark. 

At a quarter-past five, after tea, started with Louise, 
Beatrice, and Jane Churchill in the rain, which turned 
to a heavy downpour. We drove up the way we had 3 
previously walked, by the private road, under trees the 
whole way, to Lynn a Glitthen, the highest fall of the 
Aray, which is very pretty. There we had to get out to 
walk over a wooden bridge, which Louise said they did 
not like to drive over, and came back by the high road. 
By this time the weather had quite cleared, and so we] 
drove on past the Inn of Inveraray, through a gate which 
is always left open, and up what is called the " Tmvn 
Avenue" consisting entirely of very old beeches joining 
overhead and nearly a mile long, at the back of the town. 
We came back by the lime avenue in the deer park, and 

( 203 ) 

in by a gate close to the pleasure-ground at half-past six. 
The halberdiers, all tenants of the Duke, kept guard the 
whole day. 

We dined at a quarter-past eight on account of the ball 
only Louise, Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and I. Went into 
the drawing-room for a moment, where the Duke presented 
Sir Donald Campbell of Dunstaffnage and his wife, and 
J. A. Campbell of New Inverawe (Loch Awe}. Sir Donald 
Campbell is deputy-keeper of Dunstaffnage Castle, and 
wears a key in consequence. He is between forty and fifty, 
and wore a kilt, as did also Malcolm of Poltalloch and the 
other gentlemen. At a quarter-past ten we drove across 
to the temporary pavilion, where the ball to the tenants 
was to take place. Louise, Beatrice, and Jane Churchill 
went with me in the Duke's coach. The Duke, Lome, 
and Colin received us, and the Duchess and all the girls 
and the other ladies were inside at the upper end on a 
raised platform, where we all sat. It is a very long and 
handsome room, I believe a hundred and thirty feet long, 
. and was built at the time of Louise's marriage. It was 
handsomely decorated with flags, and there were present 
between seven and eight hundred people tenants with 
their wives and families, and many people from the town ; 
but it was not like the Highland balls I have been accus- 
' tomed to, as there were many other dances besides reels. 
The band could not play reels (which were played by the 
piper), and yet came from Glasgow ! The ball began, 
however, with a reel ; then came a country dance, then 
another reel. Louise danced a reel with Brown, and 
Beatrice with one of the Duke's foresters ; but the band 
could only play a country dance tune for it. Another reel 
with pipes, in which Jane Churchill danced with Brown, 
and Francie Clark with Annie (Mrs. Macdonald, my 
wardrobe maid), Louise and Beatrice dancing in another 

reel with one of the other people and Mr. John Campbell. 
Then came a " schottische" which seemed to be much liked 
there, and more reels, and lastly a " tempete" in which 
Louise and Beatrice danced. In the early part a Gaelic 
song was sung by some of the people, including Mr. John 
Campbell. I remember some which were sung by the 
boatmen on Loch Toy in 1842. After the " tempt te" we 
came away at nearly half-past twelve. 

Saturday, September 25. 

A pouring morning. Breakfasted as usual with my 
two dear children dear Louise so kind and attentive, so j 
anxious I and all my people should be comfortable, think- 
ing of everything. It cleared, and at half-past eleven I j 
walked out with Louise (Beatrice walked with Jane 
Churchill and the girls) to the kennel, along the River 
Aray, which had risen a great deal since Thursday, when 
it was as low as possible. We went to the kennel and 
saw the dogs and the eagle ; from here we went to the 
kitchen-garden, which is large. There are very fine 
peaches and a wonderful old laurel and thuja, which 
have spread to an immense size. Home at twenty 
minutes to one. Luncheon as before. 

Louise introduced me to a good old lady, a Miss 
McGibbon, who was too ill to come out and see me ; 
she patted Louise on the shoulder and said, " We are all 
so fond of the Princess ; she is a great pet." Louise said, 
" Lome was her great pet ;" and she answered, "Yes ; 
he is, and so you are a double pet." * 

At ten minutes past four drove out with Louh;e, 
Beatrice, and the Duke in the waggonette, and took a 
charming drive, the afternoon being very fine and bright. 

* She clied soon after, 

We went out the same way we had been on Wednesday, 
and once or twice besides, along the avenue called Balla- 
chanooran, by the deer park (a great many gates having 
to be opened, as they must be kept locked to prevent the 
deer getting out), and struck into the Lochgilphead Road 
beyond Cromalt. We then passed, as on the first day, 
Dahhenna and Killean, Achnagoul and Achindrain. The 
last two places are old Highland villages, where a common 
old practice, now fallen into disuse, continues, of which the 
Duke gave me the following account : 

In the Highlands of Scotland up to a comparatively 
recent date the old system of village communities prevailed 
as the common system of land tenure. Under this system 
the cultivators were collected into groups or villages, the 
cottages being all built close together on some one spot of 
the farm. The farm itself was divided into pasture land 
and arable land. The pasture land was held in common by 
all the families, and the arable land was divided by lot every 
year, so that each family might get its turn or its chance of 
the better and the worse qualities of soil. This very rude 
system is quite incompatible with any improved culture, but 
is an extremely ancient one. Sir Henry Maine has lately 
published a very interesting little book on the subject, 
showing that it once prevailed all over Europe, and does 
still actually prevail over the greater part of India. It has 
now almost entirely disappeared in the Highlands, where 
such crofters or very small cultivators as remain are gener- 
ally separate from each other each living on his own croft 
although there are still remaining many cases of pasture 
or hill land held in common among several crofters. 

Achnagoul, near Inveraray, is one of the old primitive 
villages, where all the houses are built close together, and 
where, as late as the year 1847, the old rude practice still 
held that of an annual casting of lots for the patches of 
arable land into which the farm was divided. At that time 
there were sixteen families, and each of them cultivated 

{ 206 ) 

perhaps twenty different patches of arable land separatee 
from each other. About that year the families were per- 
suaded with much difficulty to give up this old semi-barbar- 
ous system and to divide the arable land into fixed divisions 
one being assigned to each tenant, so that he could cultivate 
on an improved system. But the village remains as it was 
and is one of the comparatively few of that class which no\ 
remain in the Highlands. 

They are said to be the only two villages of the kind ir 
existence in the Highlands. The inhabitants are verj 
exclusive, and hardly ever marry out of their own villages. 
We went on between cur.ous, rather low, grass hills 
on either side, some higher than others, and several of 
which have small lochs at the tops with excellent trout, 
as the Duke told us. He showed us some farms and other 
glens, and had something to say about each place. We 
next turned to the left, where we got into oak woods, pass- 
ing some powder mills belonging to Sir G. Campbell, and 
a small village called Cumlodden, or rather a row of huts in 
which the people employed at the mills live, and from 
here turned to the village of Furnace, inhabited by the men 
who work the Duke's great quarries close to the sea, and 
which is so called from a number of furnaces which were 
used in the last century for smelting down lead brought 
from England. The Duke showed us one remaining, 
though in ruins, and we passed a quarry. The drive went 
by the shore of Loch Fyne, much reminding me of the drive 
along Loch Eil beyond Banavie, between trees on either 
side, oak, ash, beech, etc., with much underwood, hazel, 
bramble, etc., and we stopped at a point called Penny more, 
where there is a small battery where Lome's volunteers 
practise ; and here the view, looking down the loch towards 
the sea and the Kyles of Bute with finely-shaped hills, 
was very beautiful. The more distant hills were those 

( 207 ) 

above Ardrishaig. I tried to sketch here after we had 
taken our tea. We went along by Kenmore, Kilbryde and 
Dalchenna (again), and it was a lovely evening, with such 
soft tints on the distant hills, and the town in front backed 
by trees. I took another sketch (only very slight, in 
pencil) of this view from the Duchess's new school house, 
called Creggarfs School. 

We got home by half-past six. Besides our two 
daughters and the Duke and Duchess, Lady Dufferin and 
Colin Campbell dined with rne. Went as usual into the 
drawing-room for a little while, and then went upstairs to 
my room. Beatrice remained with Jane and me. 

Sunday, September 26. 

The morning was very wet, so decided after our usual 
nice breakfast not to go out, but wrote, etc. At a quarter 
to twelve we attended divine service in the house, in the 
large dining-room, which is a long room. Dr. MacGregor 
performed the service. Went afterwards into the drawing- 
room and the two libraries, the newer of which had been 
arranged by Louise and Lome. There are some fine 
pictures in the drawing-room one of the Marquis ot 
Argyll who was beheaded, of Field- Marshal Con way by 
Gainsborough, of Duke Archibald, who built the house, 
etc., also of the present Duke's handsome grandmother, 
who married first a Duke of Hamilton, secondly a Duke 
of Argyll. 

Luncheon as usual. Then upstairs, and at twenty 
minutes to four walked out with Louise, Beatrice, and 
Jane Churchill, and went along by the river, which had 
been over the road in the night, on to the "Miller's 
Lynn" the first falls, which are very pretty and were very 
i full, but are not near as high as the Garbhalt. We met 
some of the party coming back, and then some way 

farther up the river got into the carriage and drove to the 
"middle fall" or Essachlay, where we got out and walked 
to look at the fall; then drove to Lynn a Gluthen and 
saw the third fall, after which we drove some distance 
up Glen Aray, beyond Stronmagachan to Tullich Hill^ 
then back again past the stables, and on through the 
Town Avenue back, and in by ten minutes past six. 

Took tea with Beatrice and Louise, who came in 
rather late, afterwards read and wrote. Besides Louise 
and Beatrice, Lome, Elizabeth Campbell, Jane Churchill, 
and Colonel Ponsonby dined with me. We went into 
the drawing-room for a short while as usual. 

Monday, September 27. 

It was a dreadfully rough night, pouring and blowing 
fearfully, and we heard it had thundered and lightened. 
After our nice little breakfast and writing, I went out at 
eleven with Louise, and met the Duke and the rest in the 
pleasure-grounds, where I planted a small cedar of 
Lebanon, the seed of which Lady Emma McNeill had 
brought back from the East. Then went on a little 
farther to where the road turns near the river, and planted 
a small silver fir, opposite to a magnificent one which my 
beloved Albert had admired in 1847. Beatrice walked 
up meanwhile with Jane Churchill, Evelyn, and Frances 
Campbell, to the top of the fine hill of Dunaqiwuh, 
opposite the Castle, after seeing the trees planted, and 
was to plant one herself when she came down. I drove 
off with Louise past the Creitabhille Lodge, the granite 
quarry (not, of course, the large ones which we saw on 
Saturday in the deer forest), and then got out and walked 
up a long steep path in the wood to obtain a view, of 
which, however, we did not see much. I am sure we 

2 9 

walked a mile and a half up to the top, and it was a long 
pull, but I walked well. However, in going down, the 
wet grass and moss made me slip very much, having no 
nails to my boots, and twice I came down completely. 

We drove back by Essachosan as quickly as we could 
at a quarter to one. The trees are wonderfully thick, 
and the tangled undergrowth of fern etc. is almost like a 
jungle. We had hardly any rain. Luncheon as usual. 
Drawing. The views from my room were so fine. 
While I was dressing to go out, Louise brought in Archi- 
bald Campbell's two lovely little children, little Neil, a 
dear pretty fair boy of three, very like Archie as a child, 
and the baby, Elspeth, who is beautiful: brown curly hair, 
enormous dark blue eyes fringed with very long dark 
eyelashes, and a small mouth and nose. 

At ten minutes to four drove off in the waggonette 
with Louise, Beatrice, and Lome, out by the approach 
along the foot of Dunaquoich, past the yew and chestnut 
avenue, over the Garonne Bridge, along the lochside, an 
excellent road, much wooded, and commanding a beauti- 
ful view of the opposite shore and hills of Ardkinglass, 
past the Strone Point, Achnatra, and the ruins of the old 
castle or tower of Dunderave, which formerly belonged 
to the McNaghtons, who subsequently settled in Ireland, 
on to the head of Loch Fyne. There we turned up to the 
left and drove up Glen Fyne, a very wild narrow glen with 
hardly any trees, and the water of the Fyne running 
through it. The high green hills with rugged grey rocks 
reminded me of the Spital of Glenshee and of Altanour 
(Lord Fife's). We drove up to a very small shooting- 
lodge, the property of Mr. Callander, brother-in-law to 
Lord Archibald, where a keeper with a nice wife lives. 
A.S it was beginning to rain, we went into the house and 
:ook our (made) tea, and I sketched. Janie Campbell 


(Lady Archibald) and her two sisters lived here for some 
time. The Duke was their guardian. We drove back 
the same way, and encountered a tremendous shower, 
which only ceased as we were quite near home. We 
were home at twenty minutes to seven. Besides Louise 
and Beatrice, the Duke and Duchess and Sir John and 
Lady Emma McNeill dined with me. Mr. D. Macleod 
gone; the others remain. 

Tuesday, September 28. 

Bright and then showery. At a little past eleven 
drove with Louise and Beatrice along the sea-shore as 
far as Douglass Water Point, where we stopped to sketch 
between the frequent showers, the view being lovely and 
the lights so effective. 

Home through the town, by a quarter to one. 

Painting. Luncheon as each day, after which again 
painting. At a quarter to four started off in a shower in 
the waggonette, with Louise, Beatrice, and Jane Churchill, 
for Glen Shira. We drove by the approach through the 
fine old avenue of beeches which suffered so much two 
years ago. This time along the right side of the Dhu 
Loch, which is three-quarters of a mile long, up to the 
head of Glen Shira, which is seven miles distant from 
the upper end of the loch, and is lovely. We had driven 
up a good way last Thursday, as far as Drumlee. It is a 
lovely glen, wilder and much shut in as you advance, 
with fine rocks appearing through the grassy hills, and 
thickly wooded at the bottom. We passed two farms, 
and then went up to where the glen closes, and on the 
brae there is a keeper's cottage, just above which are the 
remains of a house where Rob Roy lived for some time 
concealed, but on sufferance. His army or followers 
were hidden in Glen Shira. 

We got out here to look at some fine falls of the river 
S/nra, a linn falling from a height to which footpaths had 
been made. Then drove on a little farther, and stopped 
to take our tea. We stopped twice afterwards to make a 
slight sketch of this lovely green glen, so picturesque 
and peaceful-looking, and then to take another view from 
the lower end of the Dim Loch, in which Louise helped 
me. She also sketched the glen, and had done a sketch 
this morning. She has such talent, dear good child, and 
I felt so sad to leave her. The evening was quite fine, 
it having cleared up and all the heavy clouds vanished 
when we arrived at the head of the glen. In at twenty 
minutes past six. Busy arranging papers, painting, etc. 
Besides Louise and Beatrice, the Duke and Duchess, 
Lady Dufferin and Mr. J. Campbell dined with me. 
Went again into the drawing-room and took leave of the 
Dufferins, who were to go next day. He starts on the 
8th for Canada. Dear Louise came up with me to my 
room, and stayed a little while talking with me. 

Wednesday, September 29. 

Vicky's and Fritz's engagement day already twenty 
years ago ! God bless them ! 

Got up before eight, and at half-past eight break- 
fasted for the last time with dear Louise and Beatrice. 
Then dressed before half-past nine and went downstairs. 
The early morning was fair, though misty, but unfortu- 
nately by half-past eight the mist had come down and it 
rained. It was decided that the horses should go back 
overland (having had such a terrible journey from the 
difficult embarkation and landing) by Dalmally, stopping 
all night at Tyndrum and corning on next day. The van 
was to 1^0 by sea. Some of the things belonging to our 

I' 2 

toilettes (which were in far too cumbrous boxes) we kept 
with us. I took leave of the whole family,* including 
the McNeills, and, with a heavy heart, of my darling 
Louise. It rained very much as we drove off, and for 
some time afterwards, to make it more melancholy. 

We left Inveraray at half-past nine, and drove out by 
the same gateway as on our arrival, but afterwards went 
along the sea-shore to the head of the loch. We then 
turned to the right, still along the lochside, and changed 
horses at twenty minutes to eleven at a small inn called 
Catrndow, where the dear little Campbell children are stay- 
ing, and who were at the window such lovely children ! 
There were a few people collected, and the harness as 
well as the horses had to be changed, and a pair of leaders 
put on to pull us up the long steep ascent in Glenkinglass. 
This caused a delay of ten minutes or a quarter of an 
hour. It rained rather heavily, the mist hanging over 
the hills most provokingly. We passed Ardkinglass (Mr. 
Calender's), and then turned up to the left through the 
very wild and desolate Glenkinglass. The high green hills 
with hardly any habitations reminded me of the Spital of 
Glenshee. The mist lifted just enough to let one see the 
tops of the hills below which we were passing. The road 
was steep, and, just as we were getting near the top, the 
leaders, which had repeatedly stopped, refused to pull any 
farther, reared and kicked and jibbed, so that we really 
thought we should never get on, and should perhaps have 
to sleep at some wayside inn. But we stopped, and Brown 
had the leaders taken off near a small tarn, called Loch 
Restel, and he and Francie walked. We then got on much 
better. A little farther on we passed a few scattered huts, 
and at last we reached the top of this long ascent. The 

* Elizabeth, Duchess of Argyll, died May 25, 1878. 

rain, which had been very heavy just when our plight was 
at its worst, stopped, and the day cleared. 

At the summit of the pass is the spot called Rest and 
be thankful, from an inscription cut upon a stone by the 
regiment that made the road, which was one of the mili- 
tary roads to open up the Highlands constructed by 
Government under the superintendence of Marshal Wade. 
The stone still remains, but the words are much defaced. 
Here we came upon the splendid steep wild pass of Glen 
Croe, something like Glencoe, but not so fine and the road 
much steeper. It reminds me of the Devil's Elbow, and 
even of the DeviFs Bridge in the Goschenen Pass on the 
St. Gothard. We got out and walked down the road, 
which goes in a zigzag. A few people who had walked 
up from the coach were standing there. As at Glencoe the 
stream flows in the hollow of the pass, and there were some 
cattle and a house or two. The sun even came out all at 
once and lit up the wild grand scene. We got into the car- 
riage near the bottom, and drank Fritz and Vicky's healths. 

There was no more heavy rain, though there were 
frequent showers succeeded by most brilliant sunshine. 
We drove on under and by trees, and saw high hill-tops, 
including the peak of Ben Lomond, and then came upon 
Loch Long, a sea loch, which we sailed up in 1847, and 
drove part of the way along the shore, on the opposite side 
of which lie Arrochar and several pretty villas. We went 
round the head of the loch, where stood Lady Welby (for- 
merly Victoria Wortley) and her children, and drove along 
under an arch near the bridge, passing through the village 
of Arrochar, which is in Dumbartonshire, and here had a 
very good view of the celebrated Cobbler, or Ben Arthur. 
We next changed horses at Tarbet, quite a small village, 
where there was a sort of arch, composed of laurels and 
flowers stretched across the road. There were a good 

( 214 ) 

many people here, who pressed in upon us a good deal. 
Here General Ponsonby presented Mr. H. E. Crum 
Ewing, Lord-Lieutenant si Dumbartonshire, He preceded 
us a little way in his carriage, and then followed us. 

The drive along Loch Lomond, which we came upon 

almost immediately after Tarbet, was perfectly beautiful. 

We wound along under trees on both sides, with the 

most lovely glimpses of the head of the loch, and ever 

and anon of Loch Lomond itself below the road ; the 

hills which rose upon our right reminding me of Aberfoyle, 

near Loch Ard, and of the lower part of the Pilatus, 

Such fine trees, numbers of hollies growing down almost 

into the water, and such beautiful capes and little bays 

and promontories ! The loch was extremely rough, and 

so fierce was the wind, that the foam was blown like smoke 

along the deep blue of the water. The gale had broken 

some trees. The sun lit up the whole scene beautifully, 

but we had a few slight showers. It reminded me of 

Switzerland. I thought we saw everything so much better 

than we had formerly done from the steamer. As we 

proceeded, the hills became lower, the loch widened, and 

the many wooded islands appeared. We next changed 

horses at Lass, quite a small village indeed the little inn 

stands almost alone, and they drove us close up to it, but 

there was a great crowding and squeezing, and some < 

children screamed with fright ; two presented nosegays 

to Beatrice and me, and a poor woman offered me a bag 

of "sweeties." 

From here we drove along past the openings of Glen 
Luss and Glen Finlas, which run up amongst the fine hills j 
to the right, the loch being on our left, and the road much j 
wooded. There are slate quarries close to Luss. About ; 
two miles from Luss we drove through Sir J. Colquhoun's 
place, Rossdlm, which commands a beautiful view of Ben 

Lomond and the loch, and drove up to the house, where 
Highland volunteers were drawn up, and where we 
stopped without getting out of the carriage, and I received 
a nosegay from a little girl, and a basket of fruit. Sir J. 
Colquhoun's father was drowned two years ago in the loch, 
crossing over from an island where he had been shooting, 
and the body was not found for a fortnight ; the keepers 
with him were also drowned. We drove on, passing 
several other places, and everywhere were arches of 
flowers, flags, etc., and the poorest people had hung out 
handkerchiefs for flags. We were followed by endless 
" machines " full of people, and many on foot running, 
and our horses were bad and went very slowly. However, 
as we approached Balloch, through which we did not pass, 
but only went up to the station, though the crowds were 
very great, perfect order was kept. The militia was out, and 
we got quite easily into the train at a quarter-past three. 

Here again a nosegay was presented, and Mr. A. Orr 
Ewing, member for the county, and Mr. Smollett, the 
Convener, whom we had seen on board the steamer six 
years ago, were presented. Balloch is a manufacturing 
place for dyeing, and is connected with the trade in 
Glasgow. We had some cold luncheon as soon as we 
got into the train. 

Our next stoppage was at Stirling, where there was an 
immense concourse of people, and the station prettily 
decorated. The evening was very fine, the pretty scenery 
appearing to great advantage, and the sky lovely. After 
this it got rapidly dark. We stopped at Perth and at the 
Bridge of Dun, where Jane Churchill got into our carriage 
i and we had some tea ; and then at Aberdeen, where it 
poured. At twenty minutes to ten we arrived at Ballater, 
and at once got into our carriage, and reached Balmoral 
at twenty-five minutes to eleven. 

OCTOBER 1875. 

Thursday, October 21, 1875. 

Much grieved at its being a worse day than ever for 
the funeral of Brown's father,* which sad ceremony was 
to take place to-day. The rain is hopeless the ninth 
day ! Quite unheard of ! I saw good Brown a moment 
before breakfast ; he was low and sad, and then going 
off to Micras. At twenty minutes to twelve drove with 
Beatrice and Janie Ely to Micras. As we drove up (un- 
fortunately raining much) we met Dr. Robertson, and all 
along near the house were numbers of people Brown 
told me afterwards he thought above a hundred. All my 
keepers, Mitchell the blacksmith (from Clachanturn), 
Symon, Grant, Brown's five uncles, Leys, Thomson (post- 
master), and the forester, people below Micras and in 
Aberarder, and my people ; Heale, Lohlein (returned this 
day from a week's leave), Cowley Jarrett, Ross and Collins 
(sergeant footman), Brown and his four brothers,f in- 
cluding Donald (who only arrived last night, and went to 
the Bush, his brother William's farm), took us to the 

* He had died on the i8th, aged 86, at Micras, opposite Aber- 
geldie, on the other side of the river. 

f The fifth, Hugh (who, since May 1883, has been my High- 
land attendant), was then in New Zealand. 

kitchen, where was poor dear old Mrs. Brown sitting near 
the fire and much upset, but still calm and dignified ; 
Mrs. William Brown was most kind and helpful, and the 
old sister-in-law and her daughter ; also the Hon. M. 
West, Mr. Sahl, Drs. Marshall and Profeit, Mr. Begg, and 
Dr. Robertson, who came in later. The sons, and a few 
whom Brown sent out of the kitchen, were in the other 
small room, where was the coffin. A small passage 
always divides the kitchen and the sitting-room in this 
old sort of farmhouse, in front of which is the door the 
only door. Mr. Campbell, the minister of Crathie, stood 
in the passage at the door, every one else standing close 
outside. As soon as he began his prayer, poor dear old 
Mrs. Brown got up and came and stood near me able 
to hear, though, alas ! not to see and leant on a chair 
during the very impressive prayers, which Mr. Campbell 
gave admirably. When it was over, Brown came and 
begged her to go and sit down while they took the coffin 
away, the brothers bearing it. Every one went out and 
followed, and we also hurried out and just saw them place 
the coffin in the hearse, and then we moved on to a hill- 
ock, whence we saw the sad procession wending its way 
sadly down. The sons were there, whom I distinguished 
easily from their being near good Brown, who wore his 
kilt, walking near the hearse. All walked, except our 
gentlemen, who drove. It fortunately ceased raining just 
then. I went back to the house, and tried to soothe and 
comfort dear old Mrs. Brown, and gave her a mourning 
brooch with a little bit of her husband's hair which had 
been cut off yesterday, and I shall give a locket to each 
of the sons. 

When the coffin was being taken away, she sobbed 

We took some whisky and water and cheese, according 

( 218 ) 

to the universal Highland custom, and then left, begging 
the dear old lady to bear up. I told her the parting was 
but for a time. We drove quickly on, and saw them go 
into the kirkyard, and through my glasses I could see 
them carry the coffin in. I was grieved I could not be in 
the kirkyard. 

Saw my good Brown at a little before two. He said 
all had gone off well, but he seemed very sad ; he had to 
go back to Micras to meet all the family at tea. All this 
was terribly trying for the poor dear old widow, but could 
not be avoided. Already, yesterday morning, she had 
several of the wives and neighbours to tea. Every one 
was very kind and full of sympathy, and Brown was 
greatly gratified by the respect shown to him and his 
family to-day. 


Holyrood, August 17, 1876. 

Beloved Mama's birthday. 

How often she came to Edinburgh for a few days on 
her way to and from Abergeldie, and how much she 
always liked it ! 

We arrived yesterday morning at Edinburgh at eight 
o'clock. Had had a good night. Unfortunately the 
weather was misty, and even a little rain fell. No dis- 
tance could well be seen. Dear Arthur came to break- 
fast (always in uniform).* At eleven o'clock went and 
sat out till half-past twelve, under an umbrella and with 
screens, on the side of the Abbey facing Arthur's Seat, 
Wrote and signed, Brown always helping to dry the 

Read also in the papers a very nice account given in 
the " Courant " of what passed yesterday. Many inter- 
ruptions. The day improving. Crowds flocking into the 
town, troops marching, bands playing just as when any 
great event takes place in London. 

The last time that my dearest Albert ever appeared in 

* He was then Major in the 7th Hussars, and living at the 
Piers Hill Barracks, near Edinburgh, where his regiment was 

( 220 ) 

public was in Edinburgh on October 23 [1861], only six 
weeks before the end of all, when he laid the first stone of 
the new Post Office, and I looked out of the window to see 
him drive off in state, or rather in dress, London carriages, 
and the children went to see the ceremony. It was in 
Edinburgh^ too, that dearest Mama appeared for the last 
time in public being with me at the Volunteer Review 
in 1860, which was the first time she had driven with me 
in public for twenty years ! 

Dear Arthur could not come to luncheon, as he was 
on duty. At half-past three we started in three carriages : 
Beatrice, Leopold, and I in the third ; Brown (in full 
dress) and Collins behind ; Leopold in the Highland 
dress; dear Arthur, commanding the full Sovereign's escort 
of the 7th Hussars, riding next to me. 

We drove out to the right by Abbey Hill, the Regent 
Road, Princes Street, then turning into St. Andrew Square, 
along George Street 'to Charlotte Square. Enormous crowds 
everywhere clustering upon the Calton .S/7/and round and 
upon all the high monuments. The decorations were 
beautiful along the streets and on the houses, Venetian 
masts with festoons of flags on either side of Princes Street 
and St. Andrew Street. St. Andrew Square also was beauti- 
fully decorated, and the few inscriptions were very touching 
and appropriate. The day was quite fair, though dull 
(which, however, under the circumstances, was better than 
a very scorching sun like yesterday) and heavy, and not 
clear as to distance. The crowd, which was all along most 
hearty and enthusiastic, was densest at Charlotte Square. 
The Duke of Buccleuch received us, and the Royal 
Archers kept the ground. 

We walked up to a dais handsomely arranged, where 
I stood between Beatrice and Leopold (who were a little 
behind me). Dear Arthur's sense of duty was so great, 


( 222 ) 

Mr. Steell, the sculptor, was presented, and this was 
followed by the singing of another beautiful chorale, with 
touching words and music, the latter composed by Pro- 
fessor Oakeley, who is a wonderful musician, and plays 
beautifully on the organ. We then, followed by our own 
suite, the Committee, and Mr. Steell, walked round the 
Statue and examined the groups of bas-reliefs. The 
three sculptors who had executed the groups were also 
presented. Brown followed us round, having stood behind 
us the whole time. He was delighted with the reception. 

We drove back by South Charlotte Street and Princes 
Street. The horses of the Yeomanry and even some of 
the Hussars were very restive, and kept plunging and 
whirling round upon our horses. One of the Hussars, in 
particular, got in between our horses, and nearly caused 
an accident. We got back by ten minutes to five o'clock. 

We looked out of the window to see Arthur * ride off, 
and then I knighted Mr. Steell, who looked very happy. 
He has now long white hair such a kind, good man ! I 
also knighted Professor Oakeley, who is still very lame, 
having met with a dreadful accident in Switzerland some 
years ago. His mother was a Murray (daughter of Lord 
Charles Murray Aynsley) and sister to the mother of 
Mrs. Drummond of Megginch, and his sister married an 
uncle of Fanny Drummond. Dear Augusta Stanley took 
much interest in him. 

* Arthur was attended by Lieutenant-Colonel Pickard, R.H.A., 
who had been with him since 1867. He entered the Queen's 
service 1st January, 1878, as Groom-in-Waiting, and became 
Assistant Privy Purse and Assistant Private Secretary in October 
1878. He was a charming, amiable person, much devoted to 
Arthur and to me. He died at the age of forty of consumption at 
Cannes, March I, 1 880, deeply regretted by us and by all who 
knew him. 

I had a large dinner in the old dining-room below, 
where I had not dined since my darling Albert's time in 
1 86 1. I sat in the middle, opposite to where I used to sit. 
The party consisted of Arthur, who led me in and sat 
near me, and Leopold and Beatrice, all our people, the 
Duke of Buccleuch (who sat near me) and Lady Mary 
Scott, Lord Lothian (the Duke's son-in-law), Lord Dal- 
keith, young Lord Elgin, Lord Rosebery, the Dowager 
Lady Dunmore and Lady Adine Murray, Lord and Lady 
Elphinstone, Sir John and Lady Emma McNeill, Mr. 
Cross, the Honourable B. Primrose, Major-General J. N. 
Stuart, and Colonel Hale of the 7th Hussars (Colonel of 
dear Arthur's regiment). The band of the yth Hussars 
played during dinner, and Ross played during dessert. 
Brown * waited on me. 

Every one seemed pleased, and talked of the great 
success of the day. Mr. Cross was delighted. I re- 
mained talking some little time in the drawing-room, and 
then went upstairs and looked with Beatrice out of the 
window at the rockets. Such a noise in the streets and 
from the trains ! 

* It was hard for him to have to appear on such a festive occa- 
sion, having lost his much-loved mother only a fortnight before ; 
but his sense of duty ever went before every feeling of self. 


Balmoral, September 26, 1876. 

An earlier lunch. It had appeared to clear, and the 
rain was far less heavy. We started at three. The ladies 
and gentlemen had all gone on before in carriages, and 
many of our people went to Ballater, as it was a great 
novelty for the people here William Brown and his wife, 
who had said yesterday she had never seen so many 
soldiers together and would therefore like to go; Hugh 
Brown and his wife. Mrs. Profeit* with her children was 
there also. Alice, Beatrice, and Arthur were with me. 
The weather held up while we were going to Ballater, 
which we did in a closed landau (Brown and Collins on 
the rumble.) Just outside the village we opened the 
carriage. We drove to the left of the railway through a 
wood, avoiding the town, preceded by Captain Charles 
Phipps, as Assistant Adjutant Quartermaster-General, on 
to the open space a beautiful position, with the noble 
rocky high hill of Craig an Darraeh, at the foot of which 
lie the Pass of Ballater and the park of Monaltrie House 
with the hills opposite. Nothing could be finer. A 
great many people were there, it is said between two and 
three thousand; but none of the spectators were in uniform. 
Alix was in a carriage, Bertie and the boys (in Highland 
dress) and Prince John of Gliicksburgf on foot. They 
stood near me, so did Arthur (also in his kilt), who had 
got out of the carriage. Then followed, after the Royal 
salute, the trooping of the colours, with all its peculiar 

* Wife of my Commissioner at Balmoral, 
f Uncle of the Princess of Wales. 

and interesting customs, marching and counter-marching, 
the band playing the fine old marches of the " Garb of 
old Gaul" and " Dumbarton Drums," also the march from 
the " Fille du Regiment," which was evidently played as 
a compliment to me, whom they considered as " born in 
the regiment," my father having commanded it at the 
time I was born. Then came the piling of the drums 
and the prayer by Mr. Middleton, minister of Ballater, 
after which the new colours were given to me. I handed 
them to the two sub-lieutenants who were kneeling, and 
then I said the following words: 

" In entrusting these colours to your charge, it gives 
me much pleasure to remind you that I have been 
associated with your regiment from my earliest infancy, 
as my dear father was your Colonel. He was proud of 
his profession, and I was always told to consider myself 
a soldier's child. I rejoice in having a son who has 
devoted his life to the army, and who, I am confident, 
will ever prove worthy of the name of a British soldier. 
I now present these colours to you, convinced that you 
will always uphold the glory and reputation of iny first 
Regiment of Foot the Royal Scots." 

Colonel M'Guire then spoke a few words in reply, and 
brought the old colours to me, and begged me to accept 
them. In doing so, I said I should take them to Windsor, 
and place them there in recollection of the regiment ana 
their Colonel. Then they marched past well (they were 
fine men), and after the Royal salute gave three cheers 
for me. The 79th kept the ground and took charge of 
the old colours. We left at once. 

The rain continued persistently, having got worse 
lust as the prayer began; but we kept the carriage open, 
uid were back by half-past five. 

I was terribly nervous while speaking. 


( 226 ) 

SEPTEMBER 12-18, 1877. 

Wednesday, September 12, 1877. 

A dull morning, very mild. Had not a good night. 
Up at a quarter-past eight, breakfasting at a quarter to 
nine (I had packed my large boxes with papers etc., with 
Brown, before breakfast on Monday, as all the heavier 
luggage had to be sent on in advance), and at a quarter- 
past nine left Balmoral with Beatrice and the Duchess of 
Roxburghe, leaving Leopold, who was himself to start 
at ten A.M. for Dunkeld. Brown on the rumble of the 
landau, his leg now really fairly well, but he looks pulled.* 
It began to rain very soon, and went on till we almost 
reached JBallater, when we got into the railway. Here 
General Ponsonby and Sir William Jenner met us. Wil- 
more, Morgan, Cannon, Francie Clark (with darling 
Noble), and Heir went with us. Annie Macdonald, 

Hollis the cook, Lockwood, Seymour (who replaced 


* When we went on board the "Thunderer," August 12, at' 
Osborne, Brown had fallen through an open place inside the turret, 
and got a severe hurt on the shin. He afterwards damaged it 
again, when it was nearly healed, by jumping off the box of the 
carriage, so that when he came to Balmoral about a fortnight after- 
wards, it was very bad, and he was obliged to take care of it for 
some days previous to the fresh journey 

poor Goddard), and Lizzie Stewart (the housemaid) went 
on before us on Monday. 

The day cleared and gradually became very fine. 
Passed through Aberdeen, which looked very handsome, 
and where we much admired a new tower added to a 
college. Stopped at Dyce Junction at nineteen minutes 
to twelve. Near Aberdeen we saw the corn already cut, 
which is unusually early. Passed close under Benachie, 
the heather beautiful everywhere. At one o'clock we had 
our luncheon, and dear Noble came in and was so good 
and quiet. At twenty-five minutes past one stopped at 
Keith, where we had stopped in 1872, and where we had 
then been obliged to take two people into the carriage to 
open a door through which the maids passed, and which 
had got fixed.* The volunteers and a number of people 
were waiting for us here. About Keith the corn was 
sadly destroyed, but around Elgin it was better. Soon 
after this appeared the lovely hills of the Moray Frith 
really beautiful : the land-locked sea so blue, with heavy 
fields of yellow corn (harvesting going on) in the undulat- 
ing ground, with trees and woods here and there, formed 
a lovely picture. An old ruined church (Kinloss Abbey) 
we passed to the right, and Forres at eighteen minutes 
past two. Then Nairn, lying low on the Frith, but very 
picturesque with the hills rising around. Near here poor 
Jane Churchill's sister, Cecilia Brinckman, died on 
August 1 6, which is the cause that dear Jane is not 
with us now. The heather was so brilliant, and the sea, 
though very rough, was blue, which had a lovely effect ; 
but the bracken, and even the trees, have begun to turn 
here, as well as with us. Good crops about here. We 
passed near Fort George, which lies very prettiy on 
the shore of the Frith, but where we did not stop, and 
* Vide expedition to Dunrobin, p. 122 


( 228 ) 

Cidloden. At three minutes past three passed through 
Inverness, where many people were out, and went quickly 
past Beauty. As far as Dingwall we had travelled pre- 
cisely the same way in going to Dunrobin in 1872. At 
twenty minutes to four reached Dingwall, charmingly 
situated in a glen, where we stopped, and where there 
were a good many people waiting for us. 

Here Sir Kenneth and Lady Mackenzie of Gairloch 
met us with their three children, two boys and a girl. He 
is a pleasing courteous person, and wore the kilt. He 
has an immense property about here, and all round is the 
Mackenzie country. Lady Mackenzie is the elder sister of 
Lady Granville, and excessively like her. Soon after this 
we took tea, which was pleasant and refreshing. From 
Dingwall we turned to the left, and, instead of going on 
by the main line to Tain, went through the celebrated 
Strathpeffer, which is extremely pretty a wooded glen 
with houses and cottages dotted about ; then on through 
a wild glen, with hills, partly rocky, but with grass, 
heather, and bracken, and some trees running up amidst 
them. The railway goes along above and at some dis- 
tance from the village, proceeding by way of Strath Bran 
and Loch Luichart. There were occasional showers, with 
gleams of sunshine always between. 

We left the railway at Achnasheen, where we arrived 
at a quarter to five, and where there are only a small 
station and two or three little cottages. We three ladies 
got into the sociable (Brown and Cannon on the box), 
the two gentlemen and three maids followed in the 
waggonette, and the other servants in " traps." Sir 
Kenneth Mackenzie came as far as this small station, 
where there were a Gaelic inscription and some plaids 
arranged in festoons. The twenty miles drive from here, 
through a desolate, wild, and perfectly uninhabited 

country, was beautiful, though unfortunately we had 
heavy showers. The first part winds along Loch Rusque 
(Gaelic Chroisg\ a long narrow loch, with hills very like 
those at the Spital and at Glen Muich rising on either 
side. Looking back you see the three high peaks of 
Scour-na-Vuilhn. The road continues along another 
small loch : and then from the top of the hill you go 
down a very grand pass called Glen Dochart, Here 
Loch Maree came in view most beautifully. Very shortly 
after this you come upon the loch, which is grand and 
romantic, We changed horses at Kinlochewe, a small 
inn, near to which is a shooting-lodge, which was for 
some time rented by Lady Waterpark's son-in-law, Mr. 
Clowes, and he and his wife used to live there a good 
deal. They are now living near Gairloch, at Flowerdale^ 
another shooting-lodge of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie. 

The drive along the lochside, for ten miles to the 
hotel of Loch Maree, is beautiful in the extreme. The 
hills to the right, as you go from Kinlochewe, are splendid 
very high and serrated, with wood at the base of some 
of them. One magnificent hill towers above the rest, 
and is not unlike the Pilatus in shape, seen as it is from 
our hotel, just as the Pilatus is seen from the Pension 
Wallis. The windings of the road are beautiful, and 
afford charming glimpses of the lake, which is quite 
locked in by the overlapping mountains. There are 
trees, above and below it, of all kinds, but chiefly birch, 
pine, larch, and alder, with quantities of high and most 
beautiful heather and bracken growing luxuriantly, high 
rocks surmounting the whole. Here and there a fine 
Scotch fir, twisted, and with a stem and head like a stone- 
pine, stands out on a rocky projection into the loch, 
relieved against the blue hills as in some Italian view. 
Part of the way the road emerges altogether from the 

trees, and passes by a mass of huge piled-up and tumbled- 
about stones, which everywhere here are curiously 
marked, almost as though they were portions of a build- 
ing, and have the appearance of having been thrown 
about by some upheaving of the earth. We had several 
heavy showers, which produced a most brilliant rainbow, 
with the reflection of a second, quite perfect. Then it 
quite cleared up, and the sky was radiant with the setting 
sun, which gave a crimson hue to all the hills, and lit up 
Ben Sleach just as I remember having seen it light up 
Ben Nevis and the surrounding hills at Inverlochy. 

It was a little after seven when Loch Maree Hotel, 
which stands close to the loch and to the road and is 
surrounded by trees, was reached. At the entrance 
there is no gate, merely a low wall open at either side to 
admit carriages etc. It is a very nice little house, neatly 
furnished. To the left, as you enter, are two good rooms 
a large one called the coffee-room, in which we take 
our meals, and the other, smaller, next to it, in which the 
gentlemen dine. Up the small but easy short winding 
staircase to the right come small, though comfortable, 
rooms. To the left Beatrice's, and Brown's just opposite 
to the right. Then up three steps is a small passage; at 
the end, to the left, is my dear little sitting-room, looking 
on to the loch, and to Ben Sleach and the road; it is very 
full with my things. At the other end is my bed-room, 
with two small rooms between for Wilmore and Annie. 

On arriving heard that the Russians had bombarded 
Plevna on the gth, and had repulsed a sortie of the Turks 
with heavy loss. The bombardment continued again the 
following day, and General Skobeleff occupied the heights. 
We two and the Duchess dined together. The Duchess 
read to me a sketch of Thiers' life. Good Brown waited, 
and brought in my usual glass of water. Felt rather tired. 

Dear Louis of Hesse's birthday God bless him! 

Thursday, September 13, 

It had rained a great deal through the night, and 
the morning was dull. Had slept well. Beatrice and I 
breakfasted together downstairs, where we also lunched. 
Began to sketch, though there was no light and shade; 
but the splendid mountain was clear. At eleven walked 
out with Beatrice on the road to Kinlochewe, about a 
mile, and back, greatly admiring the magnificent hills. 
There is a bridge over a stream called Talladale, and 
near it was a cottage, a miserable hovel, in which an old 
man lived; he wore a coat and a high hat, and was much 
pleased to see me, but said he " had very little English," 
which is the case with most people here. We gave him 
something, and when Brown took it to him he asked the 
old man the names of some of the hills. 

The atmosphere was very close. In at half-past 
twelve, and then I drew and painted. So hot ! It turned 
to rain. Painted, read, wrote, etc., and then we took tea, 
and at half-past five started with Beatrice and the Duchess 
of Roxburghe (Brown and Francie on the box), and 
drove on down the loch (the contrary way to that by 
which we had come), under trees, through a larch wood, 
winding above the loch for two miles, till we reached a 
bridge, which goes over the stream of Garvaig, where 
there is a descent to above Slatterdale, and thence drove 
up a mountain pass to the left. There the hills are much 
lower and curiously tumbled about, grass, fern, and 
heather growing up their sides, with rocks at the tops 
curious serrated, knobbed hills. 

Passed a small loch called Padnascally, out of which 
runs the Kerrie Water into another little loch. Here 
the road winds along almost like the roads in Switzerland, 

2 3 2 ) 

and is very precipitous on one side, passing above the 
fine falls of the Kerrie, of which there are two or three 
successions, with fine rocks and wooded banks, through 
which the river seems to force its way. As Brown truly 
observed, it was like Glenfeshie; only Glenfeshie has no 
road, but a very narrow path, where one has to ford. 
Looking back before you come to the falls there is a fine 
view of Ben Evy. We drove quite down this pass to 
Kerriesdale, at the bridge of which is a very pretty spot 
with wooded hills leading on to Gairloch. We turned, 
as it was late, and drove back the same way, getting 
home by half-past seven. It was dull, and grey, and 
dark, but did not rain till we came back. The Duchess 
finished reading Thiers' life. 

Friday, September 14. 

An awful storm of rain, with wind, all night and a 
good part of the morning. Breakfasted as yesterday. 
At length we two went out, and walked for more than a 
mile on the road by which we drove yesterday. The 
rocky hills, rising above the road, with the fine trees and 
undergrowth beneath them, remind me of the Lion's Face, 
and of the Trossachs and Loch Eil. It cleared, the rain 
ceased, and the day became fine, but very hot and 
oppressive. In at twenty minutes to one. The view 
from my little sitting-room is quite beautiful, Ben Sleach on 
one side, and the splendid loch, with the other fine rocky 
mountains and green island, on the other. One would 
like to sketch all day. More telegrams. 

At half past three we started in two carriages, we 
three ladies in one, and the two gentlemen in the 
waggonette (Brown with us, and Francie with the next). 
We went just the same way as yesterday, but changed 
horses at Kerrie's Bridge, and turning to the left went a 

( =33 ) 

short way down a bad road, through a small wood of oaks, 
to Shieldaig, where there is a small cottage on the sea 
with a pretty garden, where Lord Bristol and Mr. 
Bateson live. But there is no road beyond, and we had 
to turn and go back again. We then drove over the 
bridge by a lovely wood of larch and other trees, through 
which flows a small river, and ascended a hill, passing by 
Flowerdale to Gairloch, which is on the sea. It consists 
of only a very few houses dotted about the kirk, manse, 
bank, and on the highest point the hotel. The hills 
immediately to the right and left of the fine bay are not 
very high. But high wooded hills are at the back of 
the Gairloch, which is open to the Atlantic. Here we 
turned round and drove straight back again the same 
way, the few inhabitants having come out to gieet us. 
After passing Kerne's Bridge, we stopped to take our 
(made) tea. The afternoon and evening were beautiful. 
We got home at a quarter to seven. The post comes in 
at a quarter to four and at half-past nine. The climate 
is very warm and muggy. Dinner as usual. After dinner 
played with Beatrice on the piano. 

Saturday, September 1 5. 

A fair morning. Up early after a very good night 
There is a perfect plague of wasps, and we are obliged to 
have gauze nailed down to keep these insects out when 
the windows are open, which, as the climate is so hot, they 
have to be constantly. I had to put on quite thin things 
again. Decided, after some little doubt, to make an ex- 
pedition for the day to Torridon, described as fine and 
wild. There was a heavy shower before we started. 
Had been sketching and painting. 

At half-past twelve we started in the waggonette, with 

234 ) 

Beatrice, the Duchess (who is delighted with everything), 
and General Ponsonby and Brown on the box. The 
day was very fine ; we had only two or three showers, 
which lasted a few minutes. We drove on to Kinlocheive, 
where we took fresh horses, and a capital pair of bay ones 
we had. The sun was brilliant, and lit up the magnifi- 
cent scenery beautifully. Halfway we crossed the bridge 
of Grudie (from which Ben Sleach is seen to advantage), 
a very pretty rapid burn, with fine fir trees, and a glen 
running up to the right i.e. to the south. At Kinlochewe 
we turned up to the right by the stream of Garry, moun- 
tains towering up, as we advanced, like mighty giants, 
and coming one by one and unexpectedly into view. To 
the left we passed a pretty, small loch, called Loch Clare, 
which runs back into a wooded glen at the foot of high 
hills. Sir Ivor Guest has a shooting-lodge near, and you 
can just see a small house amongst the trees. 

Soon after this the grand, wild, savage-looking, but 
most beautiful and picturesque Glen of Torridon opened 
upon us, with the dark mural precipices of that most 
extraordinary mountain Ben Ltughach, which the people 
pronounce Liarach. We were quite amazed as we drove 
below it. The mountains here rise so abruptly from 
their base that they seem much higher than our Aber- 
deenshire mountains, although, excepting Ben Sleach 
(3,216 feet) and a few others, the hills are not of any 
remarkable height, and the level of the country or land 
itself is barely a hundred feet above the sea, whereas Bal- 
moral is eight hundred feet to begin with. All the hills 
about Loch Maree and this glen, and elsewhere in this 
neighbourhood, are very serrated and rocky. Ben Liar- 
ach is most peculiar from its being so dark, and the rocks 
like terraces one above the other, or like fortifications 
and pillars most curious ; the glen itself is very flat, and 

the mountains rise very abruptly on either side. There 
were two cottages (in one of which lived a keeper), a few 
cattle, and a great many cut peats. 

We came to the Upper Loch Torridon, which is 
almost landlocked and very pretty. In the distance the 
hills of Skye were seen. Village there really is none, and 
the inn is merely a small, one-storied, " harled " house, 
with small windows. We drove beyond the habitations 
to a turn where we could not be overlooked, and 
scrambled up a bank, where we seated ourselves, and at 
twenty minutes to three took our luncheon with good 
appetite. The air off the mountains and the sea was 
delicious, and not muggy. We two remained sketching, 
for the view was beautiful. To the right were the hills of 
Skye, rising above the lower purple ones which closed in 
the loch. To the south, nearly opposite to where I sat, 
was Apphcross (formerly Mackenzie property), which now 
belongs to Lord Middleton, and the high mountains of 
Ben Hecklish and Ben Damph, with, in the distance north- 
wards, the white peaks of Ben Liarach. We were nearly 
an hour sitting there, and we got down unwillingly, as it 
was so fine and such a wild uncivilised spot, like the end 
of the world. There was a school, standing detached by 
itself, which had been lately built. The property here 
belongs to a Mr. Darroch, whose two little boys rode past 
us twice with a groom. An old man, very tottery, passed 
where I was sketching, and I asked the Duchess of 
Roxburghe to speak to him ; he seemed strange, said he 
had come from America, and was going to England, and 
thought Torridon very ugly ! 

We walked along, the people came out to see us, and 
we went into a little merchant's shop, where we all 
bought some trifles just such a " shoppie " as old 
Edmonston's, and the poor man was so nervous he threw 

almost everything down. I got some very good com- 
forters, two little woven woollen shawls, and a very nice 
cloak. We had spoken to a woman before, but she 
could not understand us, only knowing Gaelic, and had 
to ask another younger woman to help. 

A little farther off the road, and more on the slope of 
the hill, was a row of five or six wretched hovels, before 
which stood barelegged and very ill-clad children, and 
poor women literally squatting on the ground. The 
people cheered us and seemed very much pleased. Hardly 
any one ever comes here. We had now to get into the 
carriage, and one of the horses was a little restive ; but 
we soon started off all right, much interested by our ad- 
ventures. We admired the splendid mountain again on 
our way back, and enjoyed our expedition very much. 
One very short shower we had, before coming to Kinloch- 
ewe, where we again changed horses, and were home at 
our nice little house by nearly seven, when Beatrice and 
I had some welcome tea. Later our usual dinner ; then 
Beatrice played, and we afterwards played together. 

Sunday, September 16. 

A most beautiful bright morning, with a slight cloud 
overhanging Ben Sleach, which is very often not clear 
at the top. There was a heavy shower, which came on 
quite unexpectedly. We walked out at half-past eleven, 
and after some three hundred yards turned up a path to 
the right, off the road to Kinlochewe, under oak and 
rowan trees, through very wet grass and fern, to where 
stood two very poor- looking low cottages. We looked 
into one, out of which came a tidy-looking woman, but 
who could hardly understand or speak a word of English. 
We then looked into the second, where Baldry lodged ; 

( 237 ) 

it was wet and muddy, almost to the door, and the inside 
very low and close, but tidy. The " gudewife " came up 
and spoke to us, also like a foreigner, with difficulty. 
She was a nice, tidy-looking woman, and gave her name 
as Mrs. McRae, and the place is called " Sliorach" She 
knew us at least Brown told her it was the " Bhan 
Righ " with her daughter, and gave her some money. 

We returned as we had come, and went on some way 
in the other direction, coming in at twenty minutes to 
one. Read prayers, etc. There is no kirk nearer than 
Kinlochewe and Gairloch, and people had been seen 
passing on foot as early as half-past seven to Gairloch. 
At half-past four Beatrice, the Duchess of Roxburghe, 
and I started in a four-oared gig, steered by Hormsby 
the landlord, a very nice, quiet, youngish man, and 
rowed to the Isle of ' Maree ("Eilan Maree"), which is not 
visible from the house, being concealed by some of the 
larger islands. Contrary to what is stated in the Guide, 
it is the smallest of them. It was delightful rowing 
through these wooded and rocky islands, with the blue, 
calm loch not another sound but the oars the lovely 
blue and purple distant hills on the one side, and the 
splendid peaks of Ben Sleach and its surrounding moun- 
tains on the other. 

The boat was pushed on shore, and we scrambled 
out and walked through the tangled underwood and 
thicket of oak, holly, birch, ash, beech, etc., which covers 
the islet, to the well, now nearly dry, which is said to be 
celebrated for the cure of insanity. An old tree stands 
close to it, and into the bark of this it is the custom, 
from time immemorial, for every one who goes there to 
insert with a hammer a copper coin, as a sort of offering 
to the saint who lived there in the eighth century, called 
Saint Maolruabh or Mulroy. The saint died near Apple- 

cross in 722, and is said to have rested under a rock, 
which is still shown, close to Torridon. Some say that 
the name of Maree was derived from " Mulroy," others 
from "Mary." We hammered some pennies into the 
tree, to the branches of which there are also rags and 
ribbons tied. We then went on to where there are 
some old grave-stones : two belonged to the tomb of 
a Norwegian or Danish princess, about whose untimely 
death there is a romantic story. There are also modern 
graves, and only eight years ago one of the family of 
the McLeans was buried there, the island being their 
burying place. The remains of the old wall of the 
monastery are still to be seen. The island is barely a 
quarter of a mile across at the widest part, and not above 
half a mile in circumference. Some of the larger islands 
have red deer on them. We walked along the beach and 
picked up stones, then rowed back as we had come. It 
took about twenty minutes. Four very respectable- 
looking men (one a very good-looking young farmer) 
rowed the boat. After landing, we got into the waggon- 
ette and drove to a bridge just beyond where the trees 
cease on the Gairloch Road, about two miles from the 
hotel. Here we first took our tea, and then got out and 
scrambled up a steep bank to look at a waterfall, a pretty 
one, but very inferior to those in our neighbourhood at 
Balmoral-, walked down again and drove home by a 
quarter-past seven. 

Reading ; writing. Beatrice's room is a very pretty 
one, but very hot, being over the kitchen. Brown's, just 
opposite, also very nice and not hot, but smaller. After 
dinner the Duchess of Roxburghe read a little out of the 
newspapers. Saw Sir William Jenner. 

( 2 39 ) 

Monday ', September 17. 

A splendid bright morning, like July ! Have had 
such good nights since we came, and my own comfort- 
able bed. Sketched and painted after breakfast. At ten 
minutes past eleven walked out with Beatrice the same 
way as yesterday, and turned up to the right and looked 
at the farm, where the horses for the coach are kept. 
This coach is like a great break, and is generally full of 
people ; we met it each morning when out walking. We 
then went on past Talladale, where lives the old man to 
whom we spoke on Thursday, and whom we saw get off 
the coach this morning, having been to Gairloch for 
church, of which he is an elder. Here three or four very 
poorly dressed bairns were standing and sitting about, 
and we gave them biscuits and sandwiches out of the 
luncheon-box. The midges are dreadful, and you can- 
not stand for a moment without being stung. In at 
twenty minutes to one. I remained sketching the 
lovely views from the windows in the dining-room, and 
then sketched the beautiful mountain also. 

After luncheon some doubt as to what should be 
done, but decided not to go to Pool Ewe, beyond Gair- 
loch, but on to Kerrie's Bridge to meet the good people 
who had asked permission to come over from Stornoway, 
in the Isle of Lewis, to see " their beloved Queen." Drew 
again. At ten minutes past four we two and the Duchess 
of Roxburghe started in the waggonette, General Pon- 
sonby and Brown on the box. We went by the same 
pretty winding road ; but the Kerrie Falls were not 
nearly so full as on Friday after the heavy rain. 

As we approached Kerne's Bridge, we saw a number 
of people standing on the road, and we drew up to where 
they were and stopped the carriage. General Ponsonby 

presented the minister, Mr. Greenfield, who had come over 
with them. They sang " God save the Queen " with most 
loyal warmth ; and their friendly faces and ringing cheers, 
when we arrived and when we left, were very gratifying. 
It took them three hours to come over, and they were 
going straight back. There were two hundred and fifty 
of them of all classes, from the very well dressed down to 
the poorest, and many fishermen amongst them. We 
met many of these on Saturday coming back from having 
sold their fish, and also on the coaches. As we returned, 
we met the coach where there was only just room to 

We stopped after we had got up to the top of the hill, 
overlooking the falls, and took our tea (already made, 
and brought with us), but were much molested by midges. 
We drove to above Slatterdale, where there is such a 
splendid view of the loch and of Ben Sleach ; and the 
hills looked so beautifully pink. We walked on down to 
the small waterfall which we visited yesterday, and then 
drove home (General Ponsonby having walked back) by 
half- past seven. Reading and writing. Continued tele- 
grams. General Ponsonby and Sir William Jenner dined 
also with us. 

Got a few trifles from Gairloch, though very few were 
to be had, to give as souvenirs to my good people. 
Brown's leg, though he had to stand so much, did not 
hurt him, which I was thankful for, and he has waited at 
all our meals, made my coffee in the morning, etc. I 
was sorry it was our last night here, and would have liked 
to stay two or three days longer ; but dear Arthur has 
been, since Saturday, at Balmoral, and he must leave 
again on the 29th. Have enjoyed this beautiful spot and 
glorious scenery very much. The little house was cosy 
and very quiet, and there were no constant interruptions 

as at home. Only dear Beatrice suffered much from 
rheumatism, which was very vexatious. Nearly opposite 
is a Mr. Banks's place, called Letter Ewe, which he lets. 

Tuesday, September 18. 

A wet, misty morning, no hills whatever to be seen. 
Got up early and breakfasted at half- past eight, and at a 
quarter to nine we left with regret our nice cosy little 
hotel at Loch Maree, which I hope I may some day see 
again. Changed horses at Kinlochewe. The beautiful 
scenery was much obscured, but it got better as we went 
on, though it was not a really fine day. At a little before 
half-past eleven we reached Achnasheen, where Mr. (now 
Sir Alexander) Matheson, M.P. (who is chairman of the 
railway company, and has property farther north), met us. 
Here we got into the train, and went on without stopping 
to Dingwall ; Strathpeffer, and Castle Leod, which belongs 
to the Duchess of Sutherland, partly hidden among trees, 
looked very pretty. The lochs of Luichart and Garve 
are most picturesque. We stopped at Dingwall, and 
Keith, and Dyce Junction as before. We had our luncheon 
; at one o'clock, before coming to Keith, and tea after the 
Dyce Junction. Dear Noble was so good on the railway, 
I and also at Loch Maree, where he came to our meaJs ; 
! but he was lost without his companions. 

We reached Ballater^ six. A very threatening even- 
ling. Such dark, heavy clouds, and the air much lighter 
than at Loch Maree, We reached Balmoral at a quarter 
to seven. Dear Arthur received us downstairs, and came 
up with us and stayed a little while with me. He had 
been out deer-stalking these two days, but got nothing. 

( 242 ) 


Friday, August 23, 1878. 

Had to dine at half-past five. At six o'clock, with 
much regret, left dear Osborne, with Beatrice and Leopold, 
and embarked on board the " Alberta " at Trinity Pier. 
We had a delightful passage, but the weather looked very 
threatening behind us. Passing close to the " Osborne," 
we saw Bertie, Alix, the boys, and the King of Denmark 
standing on the paddle-box. As we steamed across we 
saw the poor " Eurydice " lying close off what is called 
" No Man's Land" as we had seen her the day of the 
Review, in fearful contrast to the beautiful fleet ! We at 
once entered the railway train ; poor Sir J. Garvock (who 
has resigned) was too ill to appear. We stopped at Ban- 
bury for refreshments, and I lay down after eleven o'clock. 
At Carlisle (at five or six in the morning) Lord Bridport, 
Harriet Phipps, and Mary Lascelles (who had joined at 
Banbury), Fraulein Bauer, and two of my maids left us 
to go to Balmoral, while Janie Ely, General Ponsonby, 
Sir W. Jenner, Mr. Yorke, Brown, Emilie, Annie, anc 
three footmen went on with us to Broxmouth. 

Saturday, August 24. 

Had not a very gcod night, and was suffering frc 
a rather stiff shoulder. It was a very wet morning. 


Dunbar, which we reached at a quarter to nine (where 
the station was very prettily decorated), were the Duke 
and Duchess of Roxburghe, the Grant-Sutties, the Pro- 
vost, and Lord Haddington, Lord- Lieutenant of the 
county. We got into one of my closed landaus Beatrice, 
Leopold, the Duchess of Roxburghe, and I the others 
following, and drove through a small portion of Dunbar, 
Lord Haddington riding to Broxmouth, about a mile and 
a' quarter from Dunbar, People all along the road, arches 
and decorations on the few cottages, and very loyal 

The park is fine, with noble trees and avenues. It 
is only a quarter of a mile from the sea, which we could 
see dimly as we drove from Dimbar. The house is an 
unpretending one, the exterior something like Claremont, 
only not so handsome, and without any steps leading up 
to the entrance. It has been added to at different times, 
and was much improved and furnished by the Duke's 
mother, who lived there. It is built on a slope ; conse- 
quently on one side there is a story more than on the 
other. The house is entered by a small hall, beyond 
which is SL narrow corridor with windows on one side and 
doors on the other. Turning to the left and going straight 
on, we came to my sitting-room (the Duchess's own 
sitting-room), with bow- windows down to the ground, and 
very comfortably arranged. Next to it, but not opening 
into it, was Beatrice's sitting-room, a very handsomely 
furnished room in fact, the drawing-room. On the other 
side of the hall is the dining-room very nice and well 
furnished, but not large. Just opposite Beatrice's room 
is the staircase, also not large, and below it you turn to 
where Leopold had a room. The staircase lands on a 
corridor like the lower one. My bedroom is just over 
the sitting-room, with a nice little dressing-room to the 

R 2 


right next to it (the Duchess's room). Next to the bed- 
room on the other side my two maids' rooms, then Janie 
Ely's, and beyond Beatrice's, and the maids' at the end ; 
just outside the corridor, Brown's. All most comfortable. 
We came down almost directly again, and had (we three) 
an excellent breakfast in the dining-room. Brown waited 
on us with a footman, Cannon, who had gone on before. 
Charlie Thomson, Lockwood, and Shorter (anew footman) 
came with us. 

As it was raining I did not go out, but soon afterwards 
went upstairs. After dressing, came down and rested, 
and read and wrote. Saw Lady Susan Suttie and her two 
very pretty daughters, Harriet (Haddie), like Susan 
Dalrymple, only much darker. Rested en the sofa, and 
while there received the very startling and distressing 
account of dear Madame Van de Weyer's death, which 
affected me much. It came direct and was given me 
straight, there being no telegraph in the house. At home 
this would not have happened. Sent to tell Brown, who 
was very much shocked. 

She was not, of course, the friend her beloved and 
honoured husband was ; but we saw so much of her with 
him ever since 1840, and so much of them both when 
they were at Abergeldie in 1867, 1868, and 1870. They 
were always most kind to us and to our children, who 
grew up with theirs ; and when my great sorrow came, 
who was kinder and more ready to help than dear M. 
Van de Weyer? Then, after his and his poor son 
Albert's death, she talked so openly to me, and I tried to 
comfort her. Dear pretty New Lodge? kept just as he 
left it, was ever a pleasure for us to go to, as there was 
still a sort of reflected light from former times, when he 
charmed every one. To feel that for us it is gone for 
* It is close to Windsor. 

( 245 ) 

ever is dreadful, and upset me very much. Another 
link with the past gone ! with my beloved one, with 
dearest Uncle Leopold, and with Belgium \ I feel ever 
more and more alone ! Poor Louise Van de Weyer, 
who has been everything to her mother since Albert's 
death, and Nellie, how I feel for them ! It was only on 
the 1 6th that their sister Alice was married to the 
youngest brother of poor Victoria's husband, Mr. Brand. 

I had tea with Beatrice, and at a quarter past five, the 
weather having cleared, drove out with her, the Duke of 
Roxburghe, and Leopold ; Lady Ely, the Duke, General 
Ponsonby, and Mr. Yorke in the second carriage, and 
Lord Haddington on horseback in his uniform. We 
drove to and through Dunbar, escorted by the East 
Lothian Yeomanry. The town was beautifully decorated 
and admirably kept. There were triumphal arches, and 
many very kind inscriptions. We turned into the park 
in front of the house, formerly occupied by the Lord 
Lauderdale of that day, facing the old Castle of Dunbar 
(of which very little remains) to which Queen Mary was 
carried as a prisoner by Bothwell after the murder of 
Darnley, and where lies the harbour a very small one. 
Thence past the old watch-tower hill, called Knockenhair, 
where some gipsies in fact, the "gipsy queen" from 
Norwood had encamped ; and where we saw several 
women, very dark and rather handsome and well dressed, 
standing close to the wall. 

On through the small villages of Belhaven and West 
Barns by the paper mills, a large and rather handsome 
building, turning from the high road to the west lodge of 
Biel, Lady Mary Nisbet Hamilton's (dear Lady Augusta 
Stanley's elder sister) and past the house (a dull-looking 
stone one, but the park is fine), and by Belton, Mr. Baird 
Hay's, to Broocburn. Home by seven. There was a 

( 246 ) 

thick fog (or " haar," as they call it in Scotland} from the 
sea, which obscured all the distance, with occasionally 
some rain, but nothing to signify. 

Only ourselves, the Duke and Duchess, and Janie 
Ely to dinner, in the same dining-room. One of the 
Duke's people attended, besides Brown and one of our 
footmen. Went to my room soon after. Wrote a letter, 
but went early to bed by twelve o'clock. 

Sunday, August 25. 

A fine hot morning. After breakfast, walked with 
Beatrice down under the trees to the left, along a broad 
walk next to the Broxburn, on to the end of the walk 
which led to the garden wall, on which roses were grow- 
ing, and which is quite on the sea, which was of a deep 
blue. The rocks are very bad for boats. There is a 
walk along the top of the rocks that overhang the sea 
the Links. This road goes on to Dunbar, which, with its 
fine church that stands so high as to be a landmark, is 
well seen from here. We walked back again, and I sat 
out near the house on the grass, under one of the small 
canopies which we had brought with us, and signed papers 
and wrote. At twelve there was service in the dining- 
room, performed by Mr. Buchanan of Dunbar, who had 
been for some little time tutor to Lord Charles Ker. 
Beatrice, Janie Ely, the Duke and Duchess, General 
Ponsonby, Mr. Yorke, and the Duke's upper servants 
were present. It was very well performed. Afterwards 
wrote and rested. Selected presents for the servants in 
the house, and things from Dunbar for my people. 

At a quarter-past five, after tea, drove out with Bea- 
trice, the Duchess, and Janie Ely, in the landau and four. 
The afternoon very bright and fine. We drove on 
towards England, in the opposite direction from yester- 

( 247 ) 

day's drive and parallel to the sea, though well inland. 
The sea of a deep blue, but a haze so dense that the dis- 
tance could hardly be seen. We drove past Barny Hill 
(Sir William Miller's) to Dunglass (Sir Basil Hall's), a 
most beautiful place with splendid trees, firs like those 
near the Belvidere in Windsor Park, sycamores, beech, 
oak, etc. The road passes above a deep ravine, at the 
bottom of which flows a stream, and past the ruins of an 
old abbey or castle. The house itself (at the door of 
which we stopped for a few minutes to speak to Sir Basil 
and Lady Hall) is a large, rather dreary-looking stone 
house with columns. It must formerly have belonged to 
the Home family. The distance was so hazy that, as we 
drove there, we could with great difficulty faintly discern 
St. Abb's Head*' and the point on the Wolfs Craig 
mentioned in the "Bride of Lammermoor." Coming 
back we took a long round inland, down steepish hills, 
through the very picturesque villages of Brankeston and 

Home at half-past seven. Dinner as yesterday with 
the Duke and Duchess of Roxburghe, with the addition 
of Lord Haddington and General Ponsonby. Lord 
Haddington's father (who was for a short time one of my 
lords in waiting, but never took a waiting) was brother to 
the late beautiful Marchioness of Breadalbane (wife of 
my dear old Lord Breadalbane), to the present Dowager 
Lady Aberdeen, to the late Lady Polwarth, and the pre- 
sent Dowager Lady Ashburnham. 

After dinner the other gentlemen were presented, 
including Mr. Buchanan, who seems a very nice person. 
Then went to my room, and Janie Ely stayed with me a 
short while. 

* Belonging to Mr. Home Dmmmond Moray of Blair Drum- 
mond and Abercairny. 

( 248 ) 

Monday ', August 26. 

Again this dear and blessed anniversary returns, and 
again without my beloved blessed One! But he is ever 
with me in spirit. 

When I came down to breakfast, I gave Beatrice a 
mounted enamelled photograph of our dear Mausoleum, 
and a silver belt of Montenegrin workmanship. After 
breakfast I gave my faithful Brown an oxidised silver 
biscuit-box, and some onyx studs. He was greatly pleased 
with the former, and the tears came to his eyes, and he 
said " It is too much." God knows, it is not, for one so 
devoted and faithful. I gave my maids also trifles from 
Dunbar; and to Janie Ely, the gentlemen, and the ser- 
vants a trifle each, in remembrance of the dear day and 
of the place. 

Walked out at half-past ten with Beatrice and the 
Duchess to the very fine kitchen-garden, and into the 
splendid hothouse where they have magnificent grapes. 
The peaches are also beautiful. From here we walked 
again along the burnside to the sea, the Duchess's pretty 
and very amiable collie (smaller than Noble, but with a 
very handsome head), Rex, going with us. We looked 
at the "Lord Warden" (Captain Freemantle), which 
arrived yesterday from Spithead, where we saw her in the 
Fleet. She had been guardship last year. 

There is a pretty view from this walk to the sea over 
a small lake, with trees, beyond which Dunbar is seen in 
the distance. Then I sat out in the garden and wrote. 
After that, when Beatrice returned from a walk near the 
sea with the Duchess, I went to look at the gravestone of 
Sir William Douglas, which is quite concealed amongst 
the bushes near the lawn. The battle of Dunbar took 

2 49 ) 

place (September 3, 1650) close to JBroxmouth, and Sir 
Walter Scott says Cromwell's camp was in the park; but 
this is doubtful, as it is described as on the north of the 
Broxbiirn. Leslie's camp was on Doune Hill, conspicuous 
for miles round. When the Scottish army left their 
strong position on the hill, they came to the low ground 
near the park wall. Cromwell is said to have stood on 
the hillock where the tower in the grounds has been 
built, and the battle must have been fought close to the 
present park gate. I afterwards planted a deodara on 
the lawn, in the presence of the Duke and Duchess. 

Indoors near one o'clock. Directly after our usual 
luncheon we saw Lady Susan Suttie with her two youngest 
children Victoria, eleven years, and a boy of nine and 
afterwards Lord and Lady Bowmont and their two fine 
children the eldest, Margaret, three, and the youngest, 
Victoria, nine months. The boy did not come. 

At half-past three started with Beatrice, Leopold, 
and the Duchess in the landau and four, the Duke, Lady 
Ely, General Ponsonby, and Mr. Yorke going in the 
second carriage, and Lord Haddington riding the whole 
way. We drove through the west part of Dunbar, which 
was very full, and where we were literally pelted with 
small nosegays, till the carriage was full of them, by a 
number of young ladies and girls; then on for some 
distance past the village of Belhaven, Knochindale Hill, 
where were stationed, in their best attire, the queen of 
the gipsies, an oldish woman with a yellow handkerchief 
on her head, and a youngish, very dark, and truly gipsy- 
like woman in velvet and a red shawl, and another 
woman. The queen is a thorough gipsy, with a scarlet 
cloak and yellow handkerchief round her head. Men in 
red hunting-coats, all very dark, and all standing on a 
platform here, bowed and waved their handkerchiefs. 

( 2 5 ) 

It was the English queen of the gipsies from Norwood, 
and not the Scottish border one. 

We next passed the paper mills, where there were 
many people, as indeed there were at every little village 
and in every direction. We turned to the right, leaving the 
Traprain Law, a prominent hill, to the left, crossed the 
Tyne, and entered the really beautiful park of Tyningham 
Lord Haddington's. More splendid trees and avenues 
of beech and sycamore, and one very high holly hedge. 
The drive under the avenues is very fine, and at the end 
of them you see the sea (we could, however, see it but 
faintly because of the haze). We passed close to the 
house, a handsome one, half Elizabethan, with small 
Scotch towers, and a very pretty terrace garden, but did 
not get out. Driving on through the park, which 
reminded me of Windsor and Windsor Forest, we again 
came upon the high road and passed by Whitekirk, a 
very fine old church, where numbers of people were 
assembled, and very soon after we saw through the haze 
the high hill of North Berwick Law, looking as though 
it rose up out of the sea, and another turn or two brought 
us to Tantallon, which is close to and overhangs the sea. 
We drove along the grass to the old ruins, which are 
very extensive. Sir Hew Dalrymple, to whom it belongs, 
received us, and took us over the old remains of the 
moat, including the old gateway, on which the royal 
standard had been hoisted. Lady Dalrymple (a Miss 
Arkwright) received us. No one else was there but Sir 
David Baird, who had joined us on the way on horseback. 
Sir Hew Dalrymple showed me about the ruins of this 
very ancient castle, the stronghold of the Douglases. 
It belonged once to the Earl of Angus, second husband 
to Queen Margaret (wife of James IV.), and was finally 
taken by the Covenanters. 

( 251 ) 

It was unfortunately so hazy that we could not dis- 
tinguish the Bass Rock, though usually it is quite distinctly 
seen, being so near; and all the fine surrounding coast 
was quite invisible. There was a telescope, but we could 
see nothing through it; it was, besides, placed too low. 
Seated on sofas near the ledge of the rock, we had some 
tea, and the scene was extremely wild. After this we left, 
being a good deal hurried to get back (as it was already 
past six), and returned partly the same way, by Binning 
Wood, also belonging to Lord Haddington (which reminds 
one of Windsor forest], but which we could not drive 
through, through Tyningham village to Belloivford, where 
the cross-road turned off. This brought us sooner back, 
and we reached Broxmotith by twenty-five minutes to 
eight, Lord Haddingdon riding the whole way. 

We dined at half-past eight, only the Duke and 
Duchess of Roxburghe with ourselves. At ten or eleven 
o'clock we left Broxmouth with regret, as we had spent a 
most pleasant time there. We went in the same carriage 
(a landau) the Duchess of Roxburghe with us, and were 
driven by the same horses which had been out each day, 
including this day's long drive, the postilion Thomson 
riding admirably. Dunbar was very prettily illuminated, 
and the paper mills also. We took leave of the kind 
Duke* and Duchess with real regret, having enjoyed our 
visit greatly. All had gone off so well. 

* Ke died April 23, 1879. 

( 252 ) 


Wednesday, September 2$, 1878. 

At twenty minutes to five drove in the waggonette 
with the Duchess of Roxburghe and Harriet Phipps to 
the Glen Gelder Shtel, and had tea there; and then drove 
to Abergeldie Mains, where Sir Thomas Biddulph had 
been very ill for a week. We got out, and I went upstairs 
and saw Mary (Lady) Biddulph. Sir William Jenner 
came into the drawing-room, and said Sir Thomas would 
like to see me. I went to his room with Sir William, 
and found Sir Thomas in bed, much the same as when 
I saw him on Saturday, looking very ill, but able to speak 
quite loud. He said " I am very bad! " I stood looking 
at him, and took his hand, and he said, "You are very 
kind to me," and I answered, pressing his hand, " You 
have always been very kind to me" I said I would 
come again, and left the room. 

Saturday, September 28, 1878. , 

At eleven o'clock started off with Beatrice for Aber- 
geldie Mains to inquire after Sir Thomas. I went up- 
stairs, and Blake, the former nurse, came in much dis- 
tressed, saying how ill he was. Then she asked if I would 
like to look at him, which I did from the door. We 

( 253 ) 

(Beatrice and I) were both much upset. We left, in- 
tending to return in the afternoon, and got back to 
Balmoral by a quarter to twelve. Sat writing in the 
garden-cottage. While I was writing, at a quarter to one 
Brown came round with a note in his hand, crying, and 
said " It's all over ! " It was from Sir William, saying that 
dear "Sir Thomas passed away at twenty minutes past 
twelve. Lady Biddulph as well as the children were with 
him to the last." We were so distressed that we had not 
remained at the house, and Brown so vexed and so kind 
and feeling. Dreadful ! Such a loss ! Dear Sir Thomas 
was such an excellent, honest, upright, wonderfully un- 
selfish and disinterested man so devoted to me and 
mine. Under a somewhat undemonstrative exterior, he 
was the kindest and most tender-hearted of men. How 
terrible is this loss for his poor, poor wife and the 
children who adored him ! 

Thursday, October 3, 1878. 

A most lovely, almost summer day, and very warm. 
At a quarter-past ten drove with Beatrice, the Duchess 
of Roxburghe, and Lady Ely (Harriet Phipps, Fraulein 
Bauer, and the gentlemen having gone on before), to 
Abergeldie Mains. We got out and went into the dining- 
room, where the coffin was placed. Poor Mary Biddulph 
and her two children received us there. Her brother, 
Captain Conway Seymour, and the female servants, our- 
selves, and the ladies were present. No men came into 
the room ; they remained in the hall, the door being left 
open. Mr. Campbell came in a few minutes afterwards, 
and performed a short but very impressive service, just 
reading a few verses from Scripture, and offering up a 
beautiful prayer. The coffin left the house directly after, 
followed by Captain Conway Seymour. Bertie and his 


three gentlemen, Lord Bridport, General Ponsonby, Sir 
William Jenner, and Dr. Profeit* followed in carriages 
to Ballater, as also did Lord Macduff and Colonel Far- 

We sat a little with poor Mary, and then left. Lady 
Biddulph and her children went in the same train with 
the honoured remains of her dear husband to Windsor, 

* My Commissioner since November 1875 ; an excellent man, 
universally beloved. 



Balmoral, May 22, 1879. 

We arrived at Balmoral at a quarter-past three. At 
a quarter to six walked with Beatrice to look at the Cross 
which I have now put up to my darling Alice. It is in 
Aberdeenshire granite, twelve feet three inches high. It 
is beautiful. The inscription is : 



Princess of Great Britain and Ireland, 
BORN APRIL 25, 1843, DIED DEC. 14, 1878, 


" Her name shall live, though now she is no more." 

We then walked on to Donald Stewart's, where we 
went in ; thence down to Grant's. In both places they 
were quite overcome to see us after darling Alice's loss, 
and poor Grant began sobbing and could not come into 

the room where we were.* The arrival at Balmoral 
to-day was most sad. Everything came before me the 
dreadful anxiety about little Ernie,f the sorrow about 
dear little May, J and the anxiety about the others. And, 
to crown all, the thought of darling Alice gone, and, after 
her, dear little Waldie. 

* Grant died November 17, 1878, in his 7oth year, at Robrec, 
close to Balmoral, where he had lived since 1875, when he was 
pensioned, and where we went very often to see him. I visited him 
almost daily during the last days of his life, and was present at the 
funeral service at his house (November 2l). He is buried in the 
churchyard at Braemar. 

f Alice's son, who, with four of his sisters and his father, was 
lying ill of diphtheria in November. 

\ Dear Alice's youngest child, who died of diphtheria November 
1 6, 1878. We received the news while we were at Balmoral. 

Prince Waldemar, the Crown Princess of Germany's third 
and youngest son, who died of diphtheria on March 27 of this year. 


JUNE 1879. 

Balmoral Castle, Tfnirsday,June 19, 1879. 

At twenty minutes to eleven Brown knocked and 
came in, and said there was bad news ; and when I, in 
alarm, asked what, he replied, "The young French 
Prince is killed ; " and when I could not take it in, and 
asked several times what it meant, Beatrice, who then 
came in with the telegram in her hand, said, "Oh! the 
Prince Imperial is killed! " I feel a sort of thrill of horror 
now while I write the words. 

I put my hands to my head and cried out, " No, no! 
it cannot, cannot be true! It can't be! " And then dear 
Beatrice, who was crying very much, as I did too, gave 
me the annexed telegram from Lady Frere : 

Government House, Cape Town, June 19, 1879. 

To General Sir Henry P on son by, Balmoral Castle. For 
the Information of Her Majesty the Oitecn.^ 

The melancholy tidings have been telegraphed from 
Natal, that the Prince Imperial, when out on a reconnais- 
sance from Colonel Wood's camp on the ist of June, was 
killed by a number of Zulus concealed in a field in which 
the Prince Imperial and his party had dismounted to rest 
and feed their horses. No official particulars yet received 


by me. The Prince Imperial's body found and buried with 
full military honours at Camp Itelezi, and after being 
embalmed will be conveyed to England. This precedes the 
press telegrams by one hour. I have sent to Lord Sydney 
to beg him, if possible, to break the sad intelligence to the 
Empress before the press telegrams arrive. 

To die in such an awful, horrible way ! Poor, poor 
dear Empress ! her only, only child her all gone ! And 
such a real misfortune ! I was quite beside myself ; and 
both of us have hardly had another thought since. 

We sent for Janie Ely, who was in the house when he 
was born, and was so devoted to him ; and he was so 
good ! Oh ! it is too, too awful ! The more one thinks 
of it, the worse it is ! I was in the greatest distress. 
Brown so distressed ; every one quite stunned. Got^to 
bed very late ; it was dawning ! and little sleep did 
I get. 

Friday, June 20. 

Had a bad, restless night, haunted by this awful event, 
seeing those horrid Zulus constantly before me, and 
thinking of the poor Empress, who did not yet know it. 
Was up in good time. 

My accession day, forty-two years ago; but no thought 
of it in presence of this frightful event. 

Had written many telegrams last night. One came 
from Lord Sydney, saying he was going down early this 
morning to break this dreadful news to the poor afflicted 
mother. How dreadful ! Received distressed and horri- 
fied telegrams from some of my children. Heard by tele- 
gram also from Sir Stafford Northcote that the news 
arrived in the House of Commons ; that much sympathy 
had been shown. It came to Colonel Stanley. Tele- 
graphed to many. 

( 259 ) 

Packed my boxes with Brown. Was so horrified. 
Always, at Balmoral in May or June, dreadful news, or 
news of deaths of Royal persons, come, obliging the State 
parties to be put off. 

At twenty minutes past eleven drove to Donald 
Stewart's and got out to say " Good-bye," as well as to 
the Profeits, and stopped at the door of the shop to wish 
Mrs. Symon good-bye, and also at Brown's house, to take 
leave of the Hugh Browns. Home at twenty minutes 
past twelve. Writing. 

Received a telegram from Lord Sydney, saying that 
he had informed the poor dear Empress of these dreadful 
news. She could not believe it for some time, and was 
afterwards quite overwhelmed. 

How dreadful ! Took luncheon with Beatrice in my 
darling Albert's room. Beatrice was much upset, as in- 
deed we all were. Even those who did not know them 
felt the deepest sympathy, and were in a state of conster- 
nation. He was so good and so much beloved. So strange 
that, as last time, our departure should be saddened, as, 
indeed, it has been every year, at least for three or four 
years, by the occurrence of deaths of great people or of 

We left Balmoral at half-past one, Janie Ely and 
Leila Erroll (full of feeling) going with Beatrice and me. 
It was a pity to leave when everything was in its greatest 
beauty. The lilacs just preparing to burst. Near Ballater 
there was a bush of white lilac already out. The dust 
dreadful. Very little whin, and far less of that beautiful 
broom, out, which was always such a pretty sight from 
the railway at this time of the year. We reached Aberdeen 
at twenty-eight minutes to four, and soon after had our 

At the Bridge of Dun we got newspapers with some 

S 2 

( 260 ) 

of the sad details. Thence we turned off and passed 
again close to the sea by Arbroath, East Haven, Carnoustie 
(where poor Symon went and got so ill he had to be taken 
back), all lying low, with golf links near each, and the line 
passing over long grass strips with mounds and small in- 
dentations of the sea, such as are seen near sands, where 
there are no rocks and the coast is flat ; but the ground 
rises as you approach Dundee. 

We reached the Tay Bridge station at six. Immense 
crowds everywhere, flags waving in every direction, and 
the whole population out ; but one's heart was too sad 
for anything. The Provost, splendidly attired, presented 
an address. Ladies presented beautiful bouquets to 
Beatrice and me. The last time I was at Dundee was in 
September 1844, just after Affie's birth, when we landed 
there on our way to Blair, and Vicky, then not four years 
old, the only child with us, was carried through the crowd 
by old Renwick.* We embarked there also on our way 

We stopped here about five minutes, and then began 
going over the marvellous Tay Bridge, which is rather 
more than a mile and a half long.f It was begun in 
1871. There were great difficulties in laying the founda- 
tion, and some lives were lost. It was finished in 1878. 

Mr. Bouch, who was presented at Dundee, was the 
engineer. It took us, I should say, about eight minutes 
going over. The view was very fine. 

The boys of the training-ship, with their band, looked 
very well. The line through the beautifully wooded 
county of Fife was extremely pretty, especially after 

* Sergeant footman at the time, who died in 1871. 

f The Tay Bridge was destroyed in the same year (1879) in the 
gale of the night of December 29, when a whole train with upwards 
of eighty passengers was precipitated into the Tay. 

Lady bank Junction, where we stopped for a few minutes, 
and where Mr. Balfour of Balbirnie brought a basket of 
flowers. We met him and his wife, Lady Georgiana, in 
Scotland m 1842. We passed near Loch Leven, with the 
ruined castle in which poor Queen Mary was confined 
(which we passed in 1842), stopping there a moment and 
in view of the " Lomonds," past Dollar and Tillicoultry, 
the situation of which, in a wooded green valley at the 
foot of the hills, is quite beautiful, and reminded me of 
Italy and Switzerland, through Sauchie, Alloa, all manu- 
facturing towns, and then close under Wallace's Monument. 
We reached the Stirling Station, which was dreadfully 
crowded, at eighteen minutes past eight (the people 
everywhere very enthusiastic), and after leaving it we had 
some good cold dinner, which reminded me much of 
our refreshments in the train during our charming Italian 

We got Scotch papers as we went along, giving harrow- 
ing details (all by telegraph) from the front, or rather from 
Natal to Cafe Town, then by ship to Madeira, and thence 
again by telegraph here. Of nothing else could we think. 
Janie Ely got in at Beattock Summit, and went with us 
as far as Carlisle. She showed us a Dundee paper, called 
the "Evening Telegraph," which contained the fullest 
and most dreadful accounts. Monstrous ! To think of 
that dear young man, the apple of his mother's eye, born 
and nurtured in the purple, dying thus, is too fearful, too 
awful ; and inexplicable and dreadful that the others 
should not have turned round and fought for him. It is 
too horrible ! 

( 262 ) 


Balmoral Castle, Friday, September 5, 1879. 

At two I started off with Beatrice and Janie Ely (Sir 
Henry Ponsonby and General Gardiner having gone on 
to Ballater) in the landau and four, the postilions in blue, 
outriders in red, Brown in full dress, and Power behind 
our carriage. We arrived at four minutes to three, and 
waited in the carriage till we heard the train (special) was 
approaching, when we got out. In two or three minutes 
more they were there, and dear Arthur and Louise Margaret 
stepped out, and were warmly embraced by us. I gave 
her a nosegay of heather. She had also received others. 
The guard (Royal Scots) were out. 

When we reached the Balmoral bridge, we went at a 
slow pace, passing under the arch composed of moss and 
heather, on which was wrought, in flowers, " Welcome to 
Balmoral" on one side, and "Ceud mille Failte" on the 
other, "A. W. " and "L. M. " on the outside of each ; 
and there all the people stood all our kilted people. 
The ladies and gentlemen, including Lord Chelmsford 
and Mr. Cross, Christian Victor, and Albert (Helena's 
boys), and also the Misses Pitt, were there. 

Arthur spoke a few words from the carriage, and then 

Dr. Profeit said a few words ; after which, preceded by 
the pipers playing, and all our kilted men and the rest 
following, we went at a very slow foot's pace to the Castle. 

At the gate three pretty little girls of Colonel Clarke's 
(Bertie's equerry staying at Birkkatf) threw nosegays into 
the carriage, one being of marguerites. Every one who 
was there followed on foot. 

Only Captain Fitzgerald came with Arthur and Louise 

When we got out, everybody having come up, Dr. 
Profeit proposed Arthur's and Louischen's health, which 
everyone drank with cheers. Arthur thanked. Then we 
went in, and Arthur, Louischen, and the two boys took 
tea with us in the library. 



Man Jay, September 8, 1879. 

A fine morning. Breakfasted with Beatrice, Arthur, 
and Louischen in the garden cottage, and at eleven we 
started for Arthur's Cairn, I on my pony "Jessie," Beatrice 
walking to the top. We were met by Arthur and Louis- 
chen, and went on to near the cairn, to the right of 
Campbell's path. I got off when we were near it ; and 
here were assembled all the ladies and gentlemen, also 
Dr. Profeit, the keepers and servants belonging to the 
place with their families, and almost all our servants from 
the house. When we had got to the top and had our 
glasses filled, and were standing close to the cairn, Dr. 
Profeit, with a few appropriate words complimentary to 
Arthur, and with many good wishes for both, proposed 
their health, which was drunk with three times three. 
Then Arthur, with great readiness, returned thanks in a 
little speech. My health followed, also with loud cheer- 
ing ; and then Brown said they ought to drink the health 
of Princess Beatrice, which Cowley took up and proposed ; 
and it was received with many cheers. Fern (who with 
the other dogs was there) resented the cheering, and 

barked very much. We all placed a stone on the cairn, 
on which was inscribed 


Married to Princess Louise Margaret of Prussia, 

March 13, 1879. 

After a few minutes we left, I walking down the whole 
way. We stopped at Dr. Profeit's on our way down, and 
here I got on my pony again. 

( 266 


Balmoral, October 6, 1879. 

At ten minutes past four drove with the Empress 
Eugenie * (who had driven up from Abergeldie)' in the 
victoria to the Glen Gelder Shiel, or Ruidh na Bhan Righ 
(the Queen's Shiel). The evening was perfectly beautiful, 
warm, and clear, and bright. The Empress was pleased 
with the little Shiel, which contains only two small rooms 
and a little kitchen. It stands in a very wild solitary spot 
looking up to Lochnagar, which towers up immediately 
above the house, though to reach Lochnagar itself would 
take a very long time. We walked on along the footpath 
above the Gelder for a mile and a half, the dogs, which 
had come up, following us, and the Empress talked a 
great deal, and most pleasantly, about former times. 

When we came back to the little Shiel, after walking 
for an hour, we had tea. Brown had caught some excel- 
lent trout and cooked them with oatmeal, which the dear 
Empress liked extremely, and said would be her dinner. 
It was a glorious evening the hills pink, and the sky so 

We got back at twenty minutes past six, and the 
Empress drove back to Abergeldie with her lady. 

* The Empress was staying at Abergeldie, to which I had urged 
her to come for a little quiet and change of air after her terrible 



Monday, September 11, 1882. 

Received a telegram in cipher from Sir John Mc- 
Neill, marked very secret, saying that it was " determined 
to attack the enemy with a very large force on Wednes- 
day." How anxious this made us, God only knows; 
and yet this long delay had also made us very anxious. 
No one to know, though all expected something at the 

Tuesday, September 12. 

Drove at ten minutes to five, with Beatrice, Louischen, 
and Harriet, to the Glen Gelder Skid, where we had tea, 
and I sketched. The sky was so beautiful. We walked 
on the road back, and came home at twenty minutes 
past seven. How anxious we felt, I need not say; but 
we tried not to give way. Only the ladies dined with us. 

I prayed earnestly for my darling child, and longed 
for the morrow to arrive. Read Korner's beautiful 
" Gebet vor der Schlacht," " Vater, ich rufe Dich " (Prayer 
before the Battle, " Father, I call on Thee ") My beloved 
husband used to sing it often. My thoughts were entirely 

( 268 ) 

fixed on Egypt and the coming battle. My nerves were 
strained to such a pitch by the intensity of my anxiety 
and suspense that they seemed to feel as though they 
were all alive. 

Wednesday, September 13. 

Woke very often. Raw and dull. Took my short 
walk, and breakfasted in the cottage. Had a telegram 
that the army marched out last night. What an anxious 
moment! We walked afterwards as far as the arch for 
Leopold's reception, which was a very pretty one, and 
placed as nearly where it had been on previous occasions, 
only rather nearer Middleton's lodge, and thence back 
to the cottage, where I sat and wrote and signed, etc. 

Another telegram, also from Reuter, saying that 
fighting was going on, and that the enemy had been 
routed with heavy loss at Tel-el-Kebir. Much agitated. 

On coming in got a telegram from Sir John McNeil!, 
saying, "A great victory; Duke safe and well." Sent all 
to Louischen. The excitement very great. Felt un- 
bounded joy and gratitude for God's great goodness and 

The same news came from Lord Granville and Mr. 
Childers, though not yet from Sir Garnet Wolseley. A 
little later, just before two, came the following most 
welcome and gratifying telegram from Sir Garnet 

Ismalia, September 13, 1882. 

Td-el-Kebir. From Wolseley to the Queen, Balmoral, 

Attacked Arabi's position at five this morning. His 
strongly entrenched position was most bravely and gallantly 
stormed by the Guards and line, while cavalry and horse 
artillery worked round their left flank. At seven o'clock I 
was in complete possession of his whole camp. Many rail- 

( 269 ) 

way trucks, with quantities of supplies, fallen into our hands. 
Enemy completely routed, and his loss has been very heavy ; 
also regret to say we have suffered severely. Duke of 
Connaught is well, and behaved admirably, leading his 
brigade to the attack. 

Brown brought the telegram, and followed me to 
Beatrice's room, where Louischen was, and I showed it 
to her. I was myself quite upset, and embraced her 
warmly, saying what joy and pride and cause of thank- 
fulness it was to know our darling safe, and so much 
praised ! I feel quite beside myself for joy and gratitude, 
though grieved to think of our losses, which, however, 
have not proved to be so serious as first reported. 
We were both much overcome. 

We went to luncheon soon after this, having sent 
many telegrams, and receiving many. At ten minutes 
past three drove with Beatrice and Lady Southampton 
to Ballater. We got out of the carriage, and the train 
arrived almost immediately, and Leopold and Helen 
stepped out; she was dressed in grey with bonnet to 

The guard of honour, Seaforth Highlanders (Duke of 
Albany's), out, and many people. Leopold and Helen 
got at once into the landau with us two, and we drove 
straight to Balmoral. At the bridge Louischen and 
Horatia* were waiting in a carriage, and followed us. 
Beyond the bridge, and when we had just passed under 
the arch, the carriage stopped, and Dr. Profeit said a 
few words of welcome, for which Leopold thanked. 
Here everybody was assembled all our gentlemen and 
ladies, and those from Birkhall and the Mains, and all 
the tenants from the three estates, all our servants, etc. 

The pipes preceded, playing the " Highland Laddie," 
* The Hon. lloralia Stopford. 

( 270 ) 

Brown and all our other kilted men walking alongside, 
and before and behind the carriage everybody else close 
following and a goodly number they were. We got out 
at the door, and went just beyond the arch, all our people 
standing in a line headed by our Highlanders. A table 
with whisky and glasses was placed up against the house, 
next to which stood all the ladies and gentlemen. Dr. 
Profeit gave Leopold's and Helen's healths, and after 
these had been drunk, Brown stepped forward and said, 
nearly as follows: "Ladies and gentlemen, let us join in 
a good Highland cheer for the Duke and Duchess of 
Albany; may they live long and die happy!" which 
pleased every one, and there were hearty cheers. 

Then I asked Leopold to propose " The Victorious 
Army in Egypt" with darling Arthur's health, which was 
heartily responded to, and poor Louischen was quite upset. 
After this Dr. Profeit proposed " The Duchess of Con- 
naught," and at Brown's suggestion he also proposed 
"The little Princess." The sweet little one had wit- 
nessed the procession in Chapman's (her nurse's) arms 
with her other attendants, and was only a little way off 
when her health was drunk. 

This over, we went in and had tea upstairs in my 
room Louischen, Beatrice, and I. Louischen had re- 
ceived a very long and most interesting letter from Arthur 
about that dreadful march on the 25th (dated 26th, but 
finished later). A telegram from Sir Garnet Wolseley to 
Mr. Childers, with fuller accounts, arrived. The loss, 
thank God! is not so heavy as we feared at first. A 
bonfire was to be lit by my desire on the top of Craig 
Gowan at nine, just where there had been one in 1856 
after the fall of Sevastopol, when dearest Albert went up 
to it at night with Bertie and Affie. That was on Sep- 
tember 10, very nearly the same time twenty-six years ago ! 

( 271 ) 

Went to Louischen, who read me portions of Arthur's 
long letter. The description of his and the officers' 
sufferings and privations, as well as those of the poor men, 
made me miserable. 

Only ourselves to dinner; and at nine Beatrice, 
Louischen, Lady Southampton, and the gentlemen, and 
many of our people, walked up (with the pipes playing) 
to the top of Craig Gowan rather venturesome in the 
dark; and we three (Leopold, Helen, and I) went up to 
Beatrice's room, and from there we saw the bonfire lit 
and blazing, and could distinguish figures, and hear the 
cheering and pipes. They were soon back, and I went 
and sat with Beatrice, Louischen, and Lady Southampton, 
who were having a little supper in Louischen's room. 

Endless telegrams ! What a day of gratitude and joy, 
but mingled with sorrow and anxiety for the many 
mourners and the wounded and dving! 

( 272 ) 


A few words I must add in conclusion to this volume. 

The faithful attendant who is so often mentioned 
throughout these Leaves, is no longer with her whom he 
served so truly, devotedly, untiringly. 

In the fulness of health and strength he was snatched 
away from his career of usefulness, after an illness of 
only three days, on the 2yth of March of this year, 
respected and beloved by all who recognised his rare 
worth and kindness of heart, and truly regretted by all' 
who knew him. 

His loss to me (ill and helpless as I was at the time 
from an accident) is irreparable, for he deservedly pos- 
sessed my entire confidence; and to say that he is daily, 
nay, hourly, missed by me, whose lifelong gratitude he 
won by his constant care, attention, and devotion, is but 
a feeble expression of the truth. 

A truer, nobler, trustier heart, 
More loyal, and more loving, never beat 
\Vithin a human breast. 

UALMOKAL : November 1883. 

& Co., I'tiiiter;', New-street Square, London, 



DA Victoria, Queen of Great 

552 Britain 

146? More leaves from the ^ 

1885 journal of a life in the 

Highlands New ed.