Mount Washington in winter, or the experiences of a scientific expedition upon the highest mountain in New England--1870-71..

LIBRARY

UN»V *SITY OF
CALIFORNIA

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IN WINTER

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THE EXPERIENCES OF A SCIENTIFIC EXPEDITION

UPON THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN NEW

ENGLAND — 1870-71

' The Lord hath his way in the whirlwind and in the storm, and the clouds are the
dust of his feet."

" There are two voices ; one is of the sea, one of the mountains ; each a mighty
voice."

BOSTON
CHICK AND ANDREWS

21 FRANKLIN STREET
1871

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1871, by

CHICK & ANDREWS,
in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

RIVERSIDE, CAMBRIDGE:

STEREOTYPED AND PRINTED BT

n. o. HouanTON AND COMPANY.

PREFACE.

ALL who have been connected with the Mount
Washington Expedition have contributed to the
preparation of this book. They address these
pages, as their Official Report, to those friends who
furnished the means for establishing this Arctic
Observatory, whose names will be found in the
Appendix.

C. H. Hitchcock has prepared the first four
chapters and Part IV.

J. H. Huntington has prepared Chapters V.,
VII., VIII., XI., XII., Part III., the first and con-
cluding portions of Chapter VI., and the first three
pages of Chapter X.

S. A. Nelson has prepared Chapters XIII. and
XIV.

A. F. Clough has prepared a part of Chapter
IX.

H. A. Kimball has prepared the " Ascent of

IV

PREFACE.

November 30 " in Chapter VI. and the balance of
Chapter IX.

Theodore Smith has prepared Chapter X.

The mountain was visited in the winter and
spring by Mr. L. L. Holden, of the " Boston Jour-
nal," who has kindly contributed Chapter XV.

Each author is responsible for the subject-matter
of the chapters here credited to him ; as much so as
if there were as many separate books as there are
authors.

CONTENTS.
PART I.

PRELIMINARY.

CHAPTER I. PAQB

EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION 1

CHAPTER II.
PHYSICAL CHARACTER OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS . . 24

CHAPTER III.
EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS 36

CHAPTER IV.
THE APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON .... 60

CHAPTER V.
MOOSILAUKB . ^ . .87

PART n.

THE EXPEDITION AT WORK

CHAPTER VI.
THE ASCENT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON IN WINTER . . 101

CHAPTER VII.
A LOOK NORTHWARD AND EASTWARD 118

vi CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VIII.

PAGE

A LOOK SOUTHWARD AND WESTWARD 126

CHAPTER IX.
PHOTOGRAPHING 132

CHAPTER X.
TELEGRAPHING 146

CHAPTER XI.
LIFE AT THE SUMMIT 155

CHAPTER XII.
JOURNAL FROM OCTOBER TO DECEMUKK 163

CHAPTER XIII.
JOURNAL CONTINUED . 169

CHAPTER XIV.
JOURNAL CONCLUDED 208

CHAPTER XV.
MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY 251

PART III.

METEOROLOGY.
INTRODUCTION 281

CHAPTER XVI.
THE FROSTWORK AND CLOUDS 285

CHAPTER XVII.
THE WIND 293

CHAPTER XVIII.
STORMS 301

CONTENTS. vii
CHAPTER 'XIX.

PAGE

METEOROLOGICAL RECOUD . 309

PART IV.

WHAT THE WOULD SAID OF us 345

APPENDIX 358

PAET FIRST.

PRELIMINARY.

CHAPTER I.

*

EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION.

ARLY in the summer of 1858, a party of
geologists started in a skiff from Burling-
ton, Vermont, and gradually made their
way up Lake Champlain to Whitehall, New York,
stopping at every promontory and island to examine
the strata. The expedition was organized under
the auspices of the Vermont Geological Survey, of
which the late President Edward Hitchcock, of
Amherst, Massachusetts, was the responsible head.
The leader of the party was C. H. Hitchcock, one
of the assistants.

Two college students, who had just finished their

course of study at Amherst, joined the party for

the sake of learning something of practical geology.

These were George S. Grosvenor and J. H. Hun-

i

2 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION.

tington. The latter gentleman had visited the
White Mountains in 1856 and 1857, and was very
enthusiastic in his descriptions of the sights and ex-
periences of that elevated region. The question was
raised by Mr. Huntington whether it would be pos-
sible to spend a winter upon the summit of Mount
Washington, and he expressed his willingness to
make the experiment in company with a classmate,
Mr. James Collins. He subsequently addressed a
letter to Professor Joseph Henry, of the Smithsonian
Institution at Washington, D. C., asking whether
the Institution could not advance the funds neces-
sary for the undertaking, as his friend and himself
were willing to make the attempt to remain on the
summit all winter. A very kind letter was received
in reply, showing a high appreciation of the subject,
but declining to undertake the enterprise at that
time, on account of the many obstacles in the way.
In a few weeks, C. H. Hitchcock visited the White
Mountains for the first time. He found a report
very common among the guides and frequenters of
the hotels, that the Smithsonian Institution had
offered a thousand dollars to any one who would
spend a winter upon the summit for the purpose of
taking meteorological observations. Others said
that a firm in Boston had offered five thousand dol-
lars for the same object, with the avowed purpose
of publishing the journal of the observers' experi-

TIP-TOP HOUSE APPLIED FOR. 3

ences, expecting to be reimbursed for the large ex-
penditure by the sale of the books. Knowing Mr.
Huntington's wishes, Mr. Hitchcock addressed a
letter to Professor Henry, stating the existence of
the report mentioned above, and adding that two
yery capable young men were ready and anxious to
undertake the enterprise. No answer was received,
and the project shortly passed out of mind. Even
to the present time, people at the mountains insist
that somebody has offered a very large sum for the
purpose now accomplished by the Mount Washing-
ton Expedition. In our efforts to raise funds, every
such report has been carefully scrutinized, but no
one could be traced to any reliable source. When-
ever we were referred to any individual, that per-
son we interrogated, but gained no additional infor-
mation. The search seemed always like pursuing
a phantom ; the moment it is touched it vanishes.
It is natural to think of what winter life upon the
mountains must be, and to perceive the necessity
of an expensive outfit, in case any observers could
be found willing to brave the frost and storms upon
the summit ; hence the origin of the report.

APPLICATION FOR THE TIP-TOP HOUSE.

During the ensuing ten years, letters occasion-
ally passed between Messrs. Hitchcock and Hun-
tington. At length, the Legislature of New Hamp-

4 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION.

shire, in the summer of 1868, authorized the estab-
lishment of a Geological Survey, and Mr. Hitch-
cock was appointed State Geologist. Then Mr.
Huntington recalled the old conversations about the
winter occupation of Mount Washington, and he-
applied for and received the appointment of As-
sistant on the Geological Survey of the State.

He commenced his work in New Hampshire in
the spring of 1869, and labored chiefly in the wilds
of the extreme northern part of the State. The sub-
ject of elevated winter quarters was early broached,
and no time was lost in making the preliminary in-
quiries. In the month of July, the State Geologist
went to Gorham to ask Colonel Hitchcock, of the
Alpine House, and lessee of the Tip-top House, if
he would allow his premises on the summit to be oc-
cupied for scientific purposes the nextVinter. The
proposal not being favorably received, the matter
was dropped for a few weeks.

Negotiations were subsequently renewed by let-
ter, but were not successful. These long cherished
plans being thus frustrated, it became evident that
the winter of 1869-70 would not be known in after
years as the season in which daring adventurers
braved the arctic climate of Mount Washington.
But in this, as in so many other cases, a higher than
human foresight was preparing the way for the
desired adventure.

A WINTER ON MOOSILAUKE. 5

MOOSILAUKE.

Had the expedition been attempted in 1869, it
might have bee7i a failure for the want of an expe-
rience of the peculiarities of mountain atmospheric
phenomena. In a conversation with Mr. William
Little, of Manchester, our disappointment was made
known. Said he, " Why not spend the winter upon
the top of Moosilauke ? I own the house there,
and the adjacent forests. You shall have the use
of them without charge."

O

The proposal being made to Mr. Huntington,
he adopted it without a moment's hesitation, even
though, in consequence of bad chirography, the
word " Moosilauke " was mistaken for " Monad-
nock." Moosilauke, in Benton, is nearly five thou-
sand feet high, and within the arctic zone of cli-
mate. Supplies were carried to its summit, and
Mr. Arthur C. Page, a recent graduate of the
Chandler Department of Dartmouth College, stood
ready to accompany Mr. Huntington, and prepara-
tions were made to commence arctic housekeeping
the latter part of December. But an advantageous
situation in Georgia was offered to Mr. Page, and
by his acceptance of it, the elevated position of ob-
server on Moosilauke was left vacant. It was shortly
after filled by Mr. A. F. dough, of Warren, a great
lover of Nature, and a photographer by profession.

6 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION.

This expedition was carried out chiefly at the ex-
pense of Mr. Huntingdon, and by the exertions of
both. So valuable were the experiences acquired,
and so unusual were the meteorological phenomena
experienced, that a full account of them is reserved
for a subsequent chapter. In some respects, the
Mount Washington phenomena have not equaled
those upon Moosilauke.

PREPARATION FOR THE NEXT WINTER.

About two months were spent upon this summit,,
and the possibility of living on a mountain top dur-
ing the winter was fully demonstrated. These ob-
servations were published in the newspapers, and
excited great interest. We began quite early in
1870 to contrive ways and means for our Mount
Washington expedition. Of course, a house was
the first essential. Renewed application for the
Tip-top House was courteously but firmly met by
refusal in a letter dated April 23, 1870. At one
time, the question of building a small house was
discussed. From his elevated observatory on Moos-
ilauke, Mr. Huntington, by letter of February 18,
1870, proposed that negotiations be commenced with
the Mount Washington Railway Company, for the
use of the engine-house or depot they were intend-
ing to build on the summit.

After the adverse decision in regard to the Tip-

ASKING FOR MEANS. 7

top House, a letter was addressed to Mr. Sylvester
Marsh, of Littleton, president of the Railway Com-
pany, inquiring whether the house might not be
used in the winter by the meteorological party. In
reply, it was stated that the completion of the house
before winter was uncertain ; but a desire was ex-
pressed that the project might be successful. Inter-
views were had with Mr. Marsh, and he spoke even
more favorably than we had been led to expect by
his letter, but he added that he had not the author-
ity to speak for the company. Having no reason
to suppose the directors would not favor us, late in
July the State Geologist issued a circular, stating
the importance of establishing a meteorological ob-
servatory upon Mount Washington in the winter,
and askino- the friends of scientific research and

O

mountain exploration to contribute the sum of two
thousand dollars to maintain the expedition, and fur-
nish the means of telegraphic communication be-
tween the observers and the public. The Geologi-
cal Survey proposed to adopt the expedition as a
part of its work, but not to furnish any funds in its
behalf. The circular suggested that, with such a
sum, the expedition could be made successful, and
the public could daily learn the character of the
arctic phenomena peculiar to the summit, and that
without wai.ting months or years for the return of
the party to civilized regions. It was promised that

8 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION.

the funds subscribed should not be called for before
October 1, nor then unless the whole amount had
been subscribed, and every contributor of ten dol-
lars and upwards was to receive a pamphlet describ-
ing the history and results of the expedition. This
circular was sent to friends, and small sums were
received, but not to any promising extent. Both of
us were so occupied with necessary field work that
we had no time to beg for money. Circulars were
posted at the principal hotels among the mountains,
in full view of the guests, but they did not excite
any special interest. Great hopes were entertained
of obtaining assistance from the American Associa-
tion for the Advancement of Science at its meeting
in Troy, about the middle of August. A paper
was read at Troy by Mr. Huntington, descriptive
of the previous winter's occupation of Moosilauke,
and the views of frostwork and arctic scenery there
photographed were exhibited by means of a magne-
sium light. The presentation of the subject excited
some interest, but the association declined to aid
the project, individually or collectively.

THE SIGNAL SERVICE.

It was now the first of September, and not a
hundred dollars had been promised. Our next
effort was in the direction of the Press. A promi-
nent journal in New York was willing to give u»

THE SIGNAL SERVICE. 9

five hundred dollars for daily telegrams and occa-
sional letters sent to them exclusively during the
winter months. Although a telegraph line capable
of use in the winter months, was beyond our ex-
pected means, our faith in ultimate success was
strengthened by this proposal. About this time
our attention was called to the recent establishment
of the Bureau of Telegrams and Reports for the
Benefit of Commerce in connection with the War
Department at Washington. Application was
made to General A. B. Myer, the Chief Signal Of-
ficer, for funds to aid us in carrying out our enter-
prise, while allowing the weather office to share
its benefits. The answer, dated September 14,
stated that the Chief Signal Officer could " hardly
appropriate money for the object named ; but it
may be in the power of this office, with the ap-
proval of the Secretary of War, to detail an observer
for the position you propose to occupy."

In answer to two additional communications from
the State Geologist, dated September 21 and 22,
the Chief Signal Officer states his willingness to
provide an insulated telegraph wire to extend from
the summit of Mount Washington to the railroad
station at its base, but that he cannot sanction any
special arrangement that has been made to furnish
any one paper exclusively with the weather reports.
He proposed himself to furnish weather reports

10 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION.

from all the stations throughout the country to the
principal newspapers, as well as to the Chambers of
Commerce, and could not well omit any one. He
also offered to provide the meteorological instru-
ments required for the station. Thus the means
were provided for sending daily telegrams, but it
necessitated the annulling of the contract for send-
ing the weather reports exclusively to the New
York newspaper, and left us as poor as ever.

In a letter of October 7, the Chief Signal
Officer announces that he has sent to the State
Geologist, three miles of insulated Kerite telegraph
wire, two telegraph instruments, two sections and
four conductors, to the value of ten hundred and
thirty-two dollars ; and that an instructed observer
will probably be detailed to join the expedition.
These telegraph supplies were duly received and
immediately transported to the mountain.

AN ABORTIVE EFFORT.

During the summer an effort had been made in
still another direction, namely, application for aid
to a scientific society in New York, known to be
greatly interested in arctic researches. It was
suggested to them, that for a comparatively small
sum, which the officers of the society could easily
raise by subscription, science would be greatly
benefited, while the society itself would have the

MR. NELSON'S LABORS. 11

credit arising from encouraging so daring an ad-
venture.

The proposal was not favorably received, — at
least no reply was ever made to the communi-
cation.

MR. NELSON.

From another quarter, however, there came the
required assistance. In the month of July, Mr.
Durgin of the Sinclair House in Bethlehem, in-
formed Professor Hitchcock, that a relative of his
by marriage, S. A. Nelson, of Georgetown, Massa-
chusetts, was very much interested in the meteor-
ology of Mount Washington, and would like to join
our expedition. Mr. Nelson wrote by date of July
28, presenting a request to be permitted to join
the expedition, asking also for further information.
It appeared that he had been led naturally to think
of the great benefits to science that must accrue
from the occupation of our highest mountain for
meteorological purposes, and he had determined, if
not able to go with some party, to' attempt the en-
terprise " alone in the face of all hardships and dan-
gers." His letters had the ring of the true metal in
them, and an interview for the exchange of views
was requested. Circumstances prevented our meet-
ing. By further correspondence, it appeared that Mr.
Nelson was ready to devote himself to raising funds
for the expedition, in case he could be one of the

12 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION.

party. A formal invitation was soon extended to
Mr. Nelson, to cast in his lot with us. He ac-
cepted, and immediately set himself to the task of
soliciting subscriptions in eastern Massachusetts,
pledging himself to procure at least five hundred
dollars. His promise was more than realized, for
his efforts brought in more than eight hundred dol-
lars. His labors commenced- early in September,
and he did not go upon the mountain till late in
December, remaining behind after the occupation
of the summit to complete what he conceived to be
his part of the work below. Were this the place, it
would be very entertaining to present extracts from
his journal in October and November, showing how
curiously many of his applications for aid were re-
ceived. Those who have been obliged to solicit
contributions for worthy, yet poorly appreciated
causes, can easily imagine his varied and amusing
experiences.

OVERCOMING DIFFICULTIES.

It became evident that the public were slowly
gaining confidence in the success of our enterprise,
and therefore, we began to purchase our supplies.
Mr. Huntington made out the list, that we might
have the needful articles at the lower mountain de-
pot, early in October, understanding that the trains
could not transport freight for us before that time.

DIFFICULTIES. 13

On the 19th of September, word was sent to Pro-
fessor Hitchcock at Bethlehem, that the mountain
trains would stop running on the following day, as
the track was to be taken up immediately for re-
pairs, and that no orders had been given by the
officers of the company, to afford our expedition
any facilities either of transportation or the use of
the summit depot ; that this building had been left
unfinished, there being only roof and sides without
doors or windows ; that the cold weather having
set in, it would soon be impossible to run the trains
for want of water, etc. To add to these difficulties
the supplies had not all been purchased ; it was un-
certain whether sufficient funds could be obtained,
and no arrangement had then been made for the

O

use of a telegraph cable. Under these unpromising
circumstances the party at Bethlehem, with the
exception of the state geologist, came unanimously
to the conclusion that the obstacles in the way
were insurmountable, and the expedition must be
abandoned for the next winter. But he said the sup-
plies should all go up the mountain, even if he turned
teamster himself, and with a single horse trans-
ported them up the carriage road ; Mr. Hunting-
ton having expressed a willingness to remain upon
the summit all winter even without telegraphic
communication with the world below. The next
day, therefore, one of the party went to the rail-

14 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION.

road station to say that orders were coming from
head-quarters to grant the needed facilities, as
they must have been delayed by some misunder-
standing. Another went to Littleton to borrow a
few tons of coal, so that the most essential article to
comfort might be sure to reach the railroad in sea-
son for transportation to the summit. Professor
Hitchcock at the same time went to Boston, and
obtained from the officers of the company the neces-
sary permission to use their summit depot during
the winter ; and immediately transmitted it to the
employees. The railway company generously gave
us the use of the depot, and transported our sup-
plies over their line to the summit without charge,
and regretted that they could not have known
earlier of our purpose, so that the house might
have been completed. Our thanks are specially
due to the engineers, Mr. Charles Aiken and Mr.
Kidder, for remaining on the mountain longer
than was necessary for their own purposes, to ac-
commodate us.

Immediately after Professor Hitchcock's return,
Mr. Huntington went to Boston, to purchase the
necessary supplies in connection with Mr. Nelson,
and to see that they were forwarded without delay.
These necessaries were purchased on credit, and the
amounts charged to Professor Hitchcock. They
were immediately forwarded and transported to the
summit.

CARRYING UP SUPPLIES. 15

UP THE CARRIAGE ROAD.

In spite of all our efforts the telegraphic appara-
tus sent from Washington, and some other necessary
articles, arrived too late for the last train, and these
were taken around the mountain in a buggy, partly
by Professor Hitchcock and partly by Mr. Hun-
tington, and thence to the summit on the carriage
road. The distance traversed by each was nearly
eighty miles, over a very muddy and hilly route.
The road up the mountain had been closed for the
winter, and the fifty or sixty bridges upon it taken
up, so that in addition to the labor of climbing, the
planks must be relaid. Several days were spent
upon the summit in preparing the building for oc-
cupation — partitioning off" a room, setting up the
stoves, laying double-floors, etc. In this we were
aided by a carpenter from Berlin Falls. On the
eighteenth of October Professor Hitchcock at-
tempted to carry up the last supplies of beef and
mutton, but at the Half-way House the wind was
blowing at the rate of sixty or seventy miles per
hour, and it was not prudent to venture further
with a horse. The load was left at the turning
point, and was subsequently carried to the summit
by Mr. Huntington, who remained on the mountain
till the rooms were completed for occupation, the
Kerite wire laid, and everything was in readiness

16 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION.

for the incoming of the party. He came clown Oc-
tober 22.

A NEW CIRCULAR.

In the latter part of October Professor Hitchcock
joined Mr. Nelson for a few days in the work of
soliciting funds. A new circular, adapted to the
changed circumstances, was prepared, and was wide-
ly distributed. In this it was briefly stated that the
arrangements for the occupation of the mountain
had been completed ; the observers, photographers
and telegrapher selected ; the needful supplies pur-
chased and transported to the summit; a Kerite
telegraph wire had been laid over that portion of
the route where a common wire could not with-
stand the wintry blasts and accumulations of ice ;
that the building had been secured and comfortably
furnished, and furthermore that the party intended
to establish themselves in their snug eyrie about
the twelfth of November.

Reference was made to the approval of the ex-
pedition by the War Department, and to a special
letter of recommendation signed by Professors B.
Pierce, Joseph Winlock, Joseph Levering, Asa
Gray, Alpheus Hyatt, President Runkle, N. B.
Shurtleff, and William Claflin.

It was also thought that commerce would be
greatly benefited by our daily reports. As 4he
farmer studies the cloud-caps upon high mountains

RAISING FUNDS. 17

to forecast the weather, so telegraphic reports of
the condition of the atmosphere upon the highest
summit in eastern America would enable ship-
owners to judge of the approach of storms, and
escape risk of loss to their vessels by keeping them
in a harbor till the danger was past ; so too, with
fair weather reported from the mountain, vessels
could get a day's start of any bad spell of weather,
and thus escape great peril.

It was announced that these preparations had
been made with the expectation that friends would
contribute funds sufficient to meet the expenses.
Should the public fail to appreciate the enterprise
the burden would fall upon the State Geologist,
who had already paid out seven hundred dollars
more than the amount of the subscriptions.

This appeal proved to be efficacious, as in conse-
quence of this and other applications, enough funds
were secured to pay all the bills of the expedition.
It was hoped that there might be a small balance
in our favor, so that the observers might preserve
some reminder of their wild experiences ; but
they are all well satisfied that the expedition has
been able to meet its obligations without protesta-
tion.

2

18 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION.
THE PHOTOGRAPHERS OF THE EXPEDITION.

On the third of October a letter came from
Howard A. Kimball, photographer, of Concord,
N. H., asking to be permitted to join the mountain
party and take views. Some elegant stereographs,
showing what proficiency he had made in his pro-
fession, accompanied the letter. According to our
original plan the artist of the expedition was Mr.
A. F. Clough of Warren, N. H., hence this ap-
plication was referred to him. Mr. Clough was
pleased with it. The two gentlemen concluded
to combine their efforts or to form a partnership,
and thus go upon the mountain in company. This
necessitated their spending a shorter time there, on
account of the limited stock of provisions sent up.
Mr. Kimball aided in the work of raising funds,
adding more than a hundred dollars to our list.

O

Both the photographers made personal pecuniary
sacrifices in order to render their branch of our
expedition successful. They also endured great
hardships upon the mountain, as will appear fur-
ther on. They have succeeded finely in taking
views, as shown in their published stereographs.
They have kindly permitted us to copy such as we
need for illustrating this volume, the report of our
doings.

OUR TELEGRAPHER. 19

OUR TELEGRAPHER.

On the third of November the Chief Signal
Officer informed us that he would send an in-
structed operator and observer with a complete set
of meteorological instruments to Mount Washing-

o o

ton, and requested that one weather report might
be forwarded to him daily by telegraph. This re-
port would be bulletined along with those from
other stations, and a copy of it be furnished to
the principal daily journals in the country. After
some delay Sergeant Theodore Smith, U. S. A.
started from Washington, and reached the moun-
tain early in December.

The following is an extract from the special order
No. 95, brought from Washington : —

o o

WAR DEPARTMENT.

OFFICE OF THE CHIEF SIGNAL OFFICER,
WASHINGTON, D. C., November 28, 1870.
*******

Sergeant Theodore Smith, Observer, Signal Service,
U. S. A., will proceed without delay to Mount Washing-
ton, New Hampshire, and report for temporary duty to
Professor C. H. Hitchcock, and carry out such orders as
he has received personally from this office.

The Quartermaster's Department will furnish the nec-
essary transportation.

By order of the Chief Signal Officer of the Army.

CHARLES M. PTNE,

Captain U- S. Army, Acting Signal Officer and Assistant*
To Prof. C. H. HITCHCOCK, Mount Washington, New Hampshire.

20 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION.
TELEGRAPHING FROM HANOVER.

At the time appointed, November 12, Mr. Hun-
tington promptly climbed the mountain and com-
menced to take and record the meteorological ob-
servations. The other members of the party were
delayed by various reasons, partly because all the
necessary arrangements had not been completed.
One of the last arrangements perfected was the
connection of the telegraph wire between Mount
Washington and Hanover. In Northern New Eng-
land, there are two telegraph lines running nearly
parallel to each other. One starts from Groveton,
New Hampshire, on the Grand Trunk Railway, and
proceeds to Concord by way of Lancaster, Little-
ton, Wells River, Vermont, and Plymouth. At
Littleton there is a branch wire extending to the
mountain. The other wire alluded to follows the
Passumpsic Railroad from Lennoxville, P. Q., to
White River Junction. These two wires enter the
same building at Wells River. Mr. C. W. Gates,
the superintendent of these lines, kindly consented
to arrange switches at Wells River and Littleton,

~ *

so that Hanover and Mount Washington could very
easily be connected in one continuous line ; and
permission was given to Professor Hitchcock to use
this line in the evening for an hour after the busi-
ness of the company had been attended to. A few

TELEGRAPHING. 21

yards of wire were added to the main line in Han-
over, and thus there was direct communication from
the summit to Professor Hitchcock's office in Cul-
ver Hall, a large building in process of erection for
the mutual benefit of the New Hampshire College
of Agriculture and the Mechanic Arts and Dart-
mouth College. This was the only room in the
building fitted for occupation, reached by struggling
through piles of lumber, and balancing one's self
upon a single plank placed over perilous depths.
The apparatus used was one of the combination
main line instruments belonging to the Signal Ser-
vice, together with a register from the Shattuck Ob-
servatory. Thus when the storms were raging, the
snow flying, the mercury freezing in the thermom-
eter, and transportation was impossible, there could
be communication between the isolated adventurers
and their friends. The news from the mountain
was exchanged for intelligence from the papers,
almost as soon as they were received in Hanover.

We cannot forbear alluding in this connection to
the assistance rendered our cause by Mr. Field, tel-
egraph operator and postmaster at Hanover. The
evening messages to the mountain were not sent
from Hanover by the regular employe of the tele-
graph company, but by members of Dartmouth
College who had learned to telegraph for their own
pleasure, or by other persons interested in the ex-

22 EARLY II f STORY OF THE EXPEDITION.

pedition. Among the latter number there was
one, profoundly ignorant of the art of telegraphy,
who had rashly promised Professor Hitchcock to
send and receive messages for him every Monday,
Wednesday, and Friday evening throughout the
stay of the scientific party upon Mount Washing-
ton.

To learn to write Morse's alphabet legibly was
a comparatively easy task. Then commenced the
stumbling through dark halls, over piles of shavings
and timbers, and climbing of broken, rickety stairs,
by the light of a dim lantern, the only luminary in
Culver Hall, in order to reach " S. O. ; " where,
in an arctic atmosphere, corresponding as nearly as
possible in temperature to that supposed to exist
upon the summit at the same hour, the bewildered
amateur undertook to learn how to " adjust," to
" switch on," to "'switch off," to " call M. W.," and
all the other " ways that are dark " in this very
mysterious art. At this juncture, Mr. Field came
to our aid. Jle not only invited this telegrapher to
send messages from the regular office, but made
every effort to render the assumed task an easy one,
and that when his time was very fully occupied with
his own duties. He read our messages for us. He
adjusted the instrument, and explained the vario'us
puzzling mysteries of the art. He " switched on "
and "switched off" and "called" when things

MEMBERS OF THE EXPEDITION. 23

were "contrairy," and made inquiries for us, and,
'in brief, did everything that he " might, could,
would, or should have done " under the circum-
stances, except to acknowledge the value of his
time, or that the presence of comparative strangers
evening after evening in his office was an incon-

O ~

venience. The unskillful telegrapher whom he so
kindly assisted, takes this opportunity to acknowl-
edge both, and to thank him for the aid so cheer-
fully given.

MEMBERS OF THE EXPEDITION.

The complete organization of the expedition is as
follows : —

C. H. HITCHCOCK, State Geologist, with office in
Hanover, connected by telegraph with the summit
of Mount Washington.

J. H. HUNTINGTON, in charge of the Observa-
tory upon the mountain.

S. A. NELSON, Observer.

A. F. CLOUGH and H. A. KIMBALL, Photogra-
phers.

THEODORE SMITH, Observer and Telegrapher for
the Signal Service.

CHAPTER II.

PHYSICAL CHARACTER OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

N_ the mountainous region parallel to the
eastern coast of North America there are
two culminating points, if we view the
masses in a general way, and overlook some of the
valleys of denudation. Commencing with the Gulf
of Mexico, the country rises gradually till the highest
point is reached on Clingman's Peak, 6,707 feet, in
western North Carolina. Then, in going north,
there is a descending slope as far as the Hudson
River, or to the level of the sea. From this valley
northerly the country rises till Mount Washing-
ton is reached, 6,293 feet, and there is a descent
again to the Gulf of the St. Lawrence. To explain
these alternating slopes we must call in the ele-
vating agencies of past geological time. The re-
searches of the New Hampshire Geological Survey
indicate that the Mount Washington range was ele-
vated by forces acting in different directions. After
the first range with its stratigraphical curves had
been formed, another force was exerted which dis-

TOPOGRAPHY. 25

torted the earlier folds, piling, the strata higher,
much like the waves of the ocean when disturbed
by conflicting winds.

The White Mountains are generally understood
by geographers to include all the elevated region
north of Winnipiseogee Lake in New Hampshire.
Territorially these may be divided into several
groups, as the Moosilauke range to the southwest,
the Franconia region, the Pemigewasset Mountains,
the Mount Washington group, etc. It is the latter
portion that claims our attention at the present time.
There is an area perhaps thirty miles long and ten
miles wide bounded by Israel's and Moose rivers
upon the north, Peabody and Ellis rivers on the
east, the Saco River on the south and west, of which
Mount Washington is the culminating point. Its
latitude is 44° 16' 25", its longitude 71° 16' 26"
west from Greenwich, or 1° 0' 43.99" longitude
east from Hanover.

TOPOGRAPHY OF THE MAIN RANGE.

This area shows a main range with several
brancjies. Starting with Camel's Hump in Gor-
ham, the land quickly rises to Mount Madison
5,365 feet high. Pursuing a course west of south,
we see in order Mount Adams, 5,794 feet ; Mount
Jefferson, 5,714 feet ; Mount Clay, 5,553 feet ;
Mount Washington, 6,293 feet; Mount Monroe,

26 CHARACTER OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

5,384 feet; Mount Franklin, 4,904 feet; Mount
Pleasant, 4,764 feet; Mount Clinton, 4,320 feet;
Mount Jackson, 4,100 feet, and Mount Webster,
4,000 feet by estimate. The range is here crossed
by the Saco River, and on the other side we have
Mount Willey, 4,300 feet, and a long range run-
ning to Mount Carrigain.

Of the spurs from the main range there is one at
right angles to its axis on the west side, consist-
ing of Mounts Marsh, Dartmouth, Deception, and
Cherry Mountain, extending past the White Moun-
tain House. On the opposite side a spur points down
toward the Glen House, with steep valleys upon both
sides, the Great Gulf to the north and Tuckerman's
Ravine on the south. Looking; from the summit of

O

Mount Washington, one can make out the outlines
of an elevated plateau, from Boott's spur past the
summit to Adams and Madison. South from Mount
Washington there are two main spurs or mountain
ranges, branching from the elevated plateau. The
first lies between Dry or Mount Washington River
and the Rocky Branch, and we have, beginning at
the lower end, Hart's Ledge, Mount Crawford,
Mount Resolution, and the Giant's Stairs as parts
of the range. Iron Mountain in Jackson is the
most prominent peak of the other range between
Rocky Branch and Ellis River. The two valleys
of Dry River and Rocky Branch are deep and
very strongly marked.

MAPS. 27

MAPS OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

In 1853 a most excellent map of the White
Mountains was prepared by the late Professor G.
P. Bond of Cambridge', Massachusetts. It was
made from original friangulation, and has been the
basis for everything that has subsequently appeared.
In 1858 another map was published by Harvey
Boardman of Griswold, Connecticut, on the scale
of about two miles to the inch, somewhat larger

7 o

than Bond's. Upon this the roads were laid down
more accurately, the boundaries of towns were rep-
resented, and an attempt was made to show the
mountain ridges and peaks by the lines known to
engravers as hashers. It also contained views of
the principal hotels.1 Since the organization of the
Geological Survey of New Hampshire, we have at-
tempted to secure a map more perfect than any now
existing. Mr. George L. Vose of Paris, Maine,
contributed for this purpose a large number of
trigonometrical observations verifying those of Pro-
fessor Bond, and added new ones in 1869. Surveys
of the Fabyan Turnpike and the Mount Washing-
ton Carriage Road were made for the Geological
Survey by Walling and Gray in 1870, and the State

1 The map by C. H. V. Cavis, prepared for " Eastman's Guide," is
upon the scale of five miles to the inch, and covers a wider range of
country than either Bond's or Boardman's.

28 CHARACTER OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

Geologist has spent much time among the moun-
tains in quest of corrections and improvements. As
the result of these labors a new map of the White
Mountains has been compiled upon the scale of two
and a half miles to the inch, and it is believed to be
a great improvement over all existing delineations
of this interesting region. The one in this volume
is a new edition of the one in the " White Hills "
by Starr King.

THE MODEL.

Several years since Rev. Dr. Thomas Hill, for-
merly President of Harvard College, prepared an
excellent model in plaster of the White Mountain
region upon'the basis of Bond's map. It was about
eighteen inches square, and showed all the ridges
and valleys between Gorham, Conway, and Little-
ton. In 1870, Professor Hitchcock commenced the
preparation of a model of the Mount Washington
range and its branches upon the horizontal scale of
139 rods to the inch, and the vertical one of three
fourths of an inch to 1,000 feet. It is about five
feet long and nearly three feet wide. Though
mostly made without special measurements, it is
thought to represent the contour of the mountains
and valleys better than anything else in existence ;
and therefore a sketch of it has been prepared for
this report of our winter experiences. It gives a

THE WHITE MOUNTAINS

ALTITUDES. 29

bird's-eye view of all the elevations and depressions
of the most elevated regions, and, though imperfect
— as any model must be without an expense of
$10,000 for accurate surveys, — it will give a very
much better idea of the shapes of the several moun-
tains than many pages of description.

VARIOUS ALTITUDES.

For the pleasure of many readers, a list of heights
of many interesting points among the mountains
is here presented. They have been taken mainly
from Professor Arnold Guyot's memoir on the
" Appalachian Mountain System." The altitudes
are above mean tide water.

Feet.

Gorham Railroad Station 802.

Glen House 1,632.

Peabody River, opposite Glen House . . . 1,543.
Summit of ridge between Peabody and Ellis Rivers, in

road near Glen Ellis Falls 2,018.

Hotel at Jackson 771.

Road at junction of Saco and Ellis Rivers . . . 576.

Mountains east of Peabody River : —

Wildcat Mountain . . . . . . . 4,350.

South peak of Mount Carter 4,830.

North peak of Mount Carter, or Imp Mountain . . 4,702.

Mount Moriah 4,653.

On the main range : —

Half-way House on Carriage Road, east side of Mount

Washington 3,840.

Limit of trees, north side of Mount Washington . 4,150.
Road between Mount Madison and Camel's Hump . 1,790.

30 CHARACTER OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

Feet.

Lowest ridge between Moose and Israel's Rivers . 1,473.
Gap between Mounts Madison and Adams . . . 4,912.
Gap between Mounts Adams and Jefferson . . 4,939.
Gap between Mounts Jefferson and Clay . • . . 4,979.
Gap between Mounts Clay and Washington . . 5,417.
Gap between Mounts Washington and Monroe . . 5,100.

Lake of the Clouds 5,100.

Little Monroe, south of Mount Monroe . . . 5,204.
Gap between Mounts Franklin and Pleasant . . 4,400.
Gap between Mounts Pleasant and Clinton . . . 4,050.
Oilier localities ; —

Cherry Mountain, approximately .... 3,670.
Cherry Mountain road at summit .... 2,192.

Mount Deception 2,449.

White Mountain House 1,551.

Gate of Fabyan Turnpike 1,583.

Twin River on Fabyan Turnpike, about . . . 2,083.

Marshfield, about . •• .' 2,615.

Crawford House * . . . 1,920.

Gate of the Notch . . . .'•..-. 1 ,904.

Willey House . . . . ...... . .1,335.

Mount Crawford House (Dr. Bemis) . . . 986.

Mouth of Sawyer's River 880.

Upper Bartlett P. 0 G64.

South Conway P. O. . . . . '. . . 450.

North Conway, estimated 492.

Mount Crawford . . ., . . . . .3,134.

Mount Resolution 3,400.

Giant's Stairs 3,500.

Mount Willard, about 2,570.

Bethlehem Village 1,450.

Bridge over Ammonoosuc (Bethlehem) . . . 1,221.

Profile House, Franconia 1,974.

Carroll House 1,428.

HEIGHT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON. 31

HEIGHT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON.

There have been a great many measurements
of the altitude of Mount Washington. Rev. Dr.
Cutler estimated it from his first measurement in
1784, at 10,000 feet, with the presumption that the
figures were too small. His second observations, in
1804, were placed in the hands of Dr. N. Bow-
ditch, who made out the altitude from them to be
7,055 feet. In 1814 Dr. Bigelow calculated it to
be 6,225 feet. . Captain Partridge's observations in
1821, gave 6,234 feet. He gave also the heights
of the adjacent peaks : Adams, 5,328 ; Jefferson,
5,058; Madison, 4,866; Monroe, 4,356; Frank-
lin, 4,711. The observations of Dr.,C. T. Jack-
son, in 1840, were quite accurate for the difference
in height between Mount Washington and the
Notch. Correcting the error for the height of the
Notch, his figures would stand 6,303, instead of
6,228, only ten feet in excess of the correct height.
Prof. Arnold Guyot, in 1851, from barometrical ob-
servations, gives the figures of 6,291 feet. In his
memoir on the "Appalachian Mountain System,"
published in 1861, he has altered these figures to
6,288. In 1853, Capt. T. J. Cram leveled to the
summit under the direction of the United States
Coast Survey, and reported the height to be 6,293
feet. There have been other measurements, but

32 CHARACTER OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

the last seems to be the most reliable ; and we may
assume it to be correct until it is proved to be erro-
neous.

THE ARCTIC CLIMATE.

Observation shows that the climate of any coun-
try becomes colder in proportion to the height of
the land above the sea. Thus in tropical regions
there may be an arctic climate at an altitude of
12,000 or 15,000 feet. Using the formulas given
by the best authorities, the climate o^Mount Wash-
ington corresponds with that of the middle of
Greenland, about seventy degrees of north latitude,
or twenty-six degrees further north than New
Hampshire. . Thie summit is thus shown to be in
the arctic zone, and the animal arid vegetable life
corresponds with that of Labrador and Greenland.
The physical character of the mountain, then, shows
why it is so interesting a place for a meteorological
observatory at all seasons of the year, particularly
in the winter. It is an arctic island in the temper-
ate zone, and on account of its great elevation it
exhibits also the condition of the atmosphere where
the mercury does not rise above twenty-four inches
in the barometer. For peculiar interest, therefore,
the Mount Washington station is not exceeded by
any point within the arctic circle.

BOTANY. 33

BOTANICAL EXPLORATIONS.

The plants of the Alpine regions of the White
Mountains are of great interest. Dr. Cutler in
1784 is the first author to speak of their arrange-
ment into zones. Dr. Bigelow in 1816 determined
most of the phenogamous plants, while stating many
interesting facts concerning the fauna and minerals.
Other explorers were Benjamin D. Greene and
Henry Little, in 1823. In 1825 William Oakes
and Dr. Charles Pickering made very extensiA-e
researches among the plants, adding several species
never found before. The former continued his ex-
plorations the year following and afterward. In
1829 Dr. J. W. Robbins explored tbe entire range,
descending into the Great Gulf and visiting the
eastern summits for the first time. Mr. Nuttall
before this time, detected several species of great
rarity, some of which have hardly been seen since.
Mr. Oakes continued his botanical researches for
many years, and intended to publish a full account
of them.

The most painstaking botanist among the moun-
tains has been Professor Edward Tuckerman of
Amherst, Mass. He first visited the mountains in
1837, and has since that period been among them
almost as many times as there have been summers.
He has devoted special attention to the lichens of

3

34 CHARACTER OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

V

this region, or those plants which predominate in
the alpine district. In his admirable treatise upon
the " Vegetation of the White Mountains," he
marks out four regions : First, the lower forest, in
which are found the hard wood species of trees,
the rock maple, the beech, the white and yellow
birches. With these are often large white pines,
firs, white spruces, the aspen, the witch hazel, and
the mountain ash. Secondly, the upper forest
consists mostly of black spruce and fir, with occa-
sional yellow and canoe birches, Frazer's balsam
fir, and a mountain ash. At four thousand feet
of altitude these trees are dwarfed, but are very
strong, and when close together form a thicket
almost impenetrable. Among the plants of the
third, or sub-Alpine region, are the mountain sand-
wort, the evergreen cowberry, the Labrador tea, and
the mountain bilberry. This seems not to be well
characterized. The fourth and highest region is
called Alpine, and contains many plants peculiar to
Labrador and Greenland. There are some fifty or
sixty of these, and among them are as many more
lowland species which have emigrated to the sum-
mit and manage to live there in favorable seasons,
though of on much dwarfed. The lichens are very
conspicuous and beautiful. One, of a sulphur yellow
color, is quite noticeable, and is a good indication
of the visitor's arrival in the Alpine district. An-

ARCTIC PLANTS.

35

other is the reindeer moss, a very common article
of food for the most useful animal to man in Lap-
land. The best localities of these arctic plants are
in the great gulfs or ravines upon the east side of

Mount Washington.

CHAPTER III.

EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS.

N his chapter upon the " History of the Ex-
ploration of the White Hills," published in
1859, Professor Tuckerman has given us
an admirable essay eliminating the names of the ear-
lier explorers, and their labors, from conflicting and
often imperfect statements. It would appear that
Darby Field of Pascataquack, an Irishman, was the
first to ascend Mount Washington, accompanied by
two Indians. This was in June 1642. The route
lay from the Saco up Ellis River nearly to its
source, thence up the projection known as Boott's
Spur, between Tuckerman's Ravine and Oakes'
Gulf. The summit of this spur is near " Bigelow's
Lawn," upon the comparatively level tract at the
southern base of Washington.

Some authors have given Walter and Robert
Neal the credit of first climbing the highest sum-
mit in 1631. This statement was made by Dr.
Belknap in the earlier editions of his " History of
New Hampshire;" but in his edition of 1812 he

INDIAN TRADITIONS. 37

states that he was in error. Field reported the ex-
istence of precious stones, and of " Muscovy glass "
or mica. These reports induced him to return a
month later, accompanied by others, particularly
by Thomas Gorges and Mr. Vines, two magistrates
of the province of Sir Fernando Gorges. Except
the story of plates of mica forty feet long (!), the
account of Field is reliable, and the appearance of
the upper mountainous region was very much the
same two hundred years since, as it is now. John
Josselyn made the ascent probably about 1663 ;
and has preserved the traditions of the Indians
respecting the early history of the mountains.
They seemed to have believed that all the human
race were destroyed by a flood save a single pair,
who escaped to the mountain top and got beyond
the reach of the water. Other traditions repre-
sented that the highest summit was the residence
of the Great Spirit, who with a motion of the hand
could raise a storm and destroy the daring adven-
turer who should irreverently enter his abode.
Hence no Indian dared approach the summit.
Their names for the mountains were Agiochook in
one dialect, and in another Waumbek-Methna, sig-
nifying Mountains with snowy foreheads.

Of later visits we have notices of " ranging "
companies who climbed the northwest part of the
mountains in April 29, 1728, and on a warm day in

38 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS.

March, 1746. In July, 1784 the summit was
reached by a party of scientific inquirers, consisting
of Rev. Manasseh Cutler of Ipswich, Massachusetts,
Rev. Daniel Little, of Kennebunk, Maine, and Col-
onel John Whipple, of Dartmouth (now Jefferson),
then the most prominent inhabitant of Cob's County.
They attempted to measure the height from baro-
metrical observations, but unhappily were unable to
confirm their computations by a trigonometrical
measurement from the plain below. They made
out three zones of vegetation — " first, the woods ;
second, the bald mossy part ; third, the part above
vegetation." The small firs in the second zone,
they thought, may have been " growing ever since
the creation," although not more than three or four
inches high. They ascended by one of the upper
tributaries of the Ellis River, since called Cutler's
River, though the name has become nearly obsolete.
In July, 1804, Dr. Cutler climbed the mountains
again, in company with Dr. W. D. Peck, and ob-
tained better barometrical observations, as well as a
collection of the peculiar Alpine plants.

It is impossible to ascertain with certainty who
first proposed to call the highest of these summits
Mount Washington. Dr. Belknap in his " History
of New Hampshire," published in 1792, says of it, "it
has lately been distinguished by the name of Mount
Washington." He quotes from the manuscript of

ASCENT ON HORSEBACK. 39

Dr. Cutler in another place, the account of the
zones of vegetation, where mention is made of
" Mount Washington," as if it were well known.
As this visit was made in 1784, it is not unlikely
that the name was proposed soon after the close of
the Revolutionary War, probably by Dr. Cutler's
party, of which Drs. Belknap and Fisher were par-
ties, though not to the summit. This is Professor
Tuckerman's view.

With the beginning of the present century visit-
ors to the White Mountains increased in number.
In 1819 the number averaged ten or twelve annu-
ally, and the pioneer settlers began to provide
means for their accommodation. In 1821 the first
ladies climbed the summit. These were three in
number, sisters, — the Misses Austin of Portsmouth,
New Hampshire. With a firm determination to
obtain a fine prospect, they remained four days near
the top in a small stone cabin, until the weather be-
came propitious. In 1840 the first ascent on horse-
back was made by Abel Qrawford, seventy-five years
old. Ethan Allen Crawford, and Dr. C. T. Jack-
son, State Geologist, were also of the party. With
additional facilities the number of visitors increased,
so that in 1858 it was estimated that five thousand
persons annually ascend the various bridle paths.
In 1870 the number was estimated at seven thou-
sand. Of these five thousand registered their names

40 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS.

at the Tip-top House, and about the same number
came up the railroad.

The discovery of the " Notch," by Timothy
Nash in 1771, led to the.construction of a more con-
venient road than had before existed between the
sea-coast and the extreme northern part of the
State. Extensive travelling led to settlement along
the route. Of the pioneers, we find first, Abel Craw-
ford and Eleazer Rosebrook. They lived at the
base of the " Giant's Grave." Rosebrook brought
his family to a log hut at this locality in 1792. In
1803 he built the first public-house about the
mountains. The " Willey House," was built in
1793. Abel Crawford married the daughter of
Captain Rosebrook and built the house at the foot
of Mount Crawford in Hart's location, about thir-
teen miles distant from the " Giant's Grave."

Ethan Allen Crawford succeeded Captain Rose-
brook, and became one of the most noted guides to
the summit. He was a giant, being nearly seven
feet in height and a prodigy of strength. Many
traditions are still current of his skill and strength,
both as guide and hunter. The " Notch House "
was built for a brother, Thomas J. Crawford, at the
foot of the " Elephant's Head," just at the upper
entrance to the "Notch." For many years the
Mount Crawford House was kept open for the ben-
efit of summer visitors by Mr. Davis, a son-in-law

LEVELING FOR ALTITUDES. 41

of Abel Crawford ; but in later years it passed into
the hands of Dr. S. A. Bemis, who is now the
Nestor of the mountains.

In consequence of the discrepancies between the
early measurements of the height of Mount Wash-
ington, a party of engineers and others from Lan-
caster visited the whole range between the Notch
and Mount Madison in July, 1820, and on a second
visit measured their altitudes with a spirit level.
The first party consisted of Adino N. Brackett,
John W. Weeks, General John Wilson, Charles
J. Stuart, Noyes S. Dennison, and Samuel A. Peaf-
son of Lancaster, with Philip Carrigain and E. A.
Crawford. Crawford was their pilot and baggage-
carrier. They gave names to Mounts Pleasant,
Franklin, Monroe, Jefferson, Adams, and Madison,
and called the Lake of the Clouds " Blue Pond."
This was probably the first party who ever spent
the night upon the summit of Mount Washington.

In August, Weeks, Stuart, and Brackett, ac-
companied by Richard Eastman, spent seven days
in leveling to the tops of all these mountains from
Lancaster. For five of these days they were at-
tended by Amos Legro, Joseph W. Brackett, and
Edward B. Moore.

Of the prominent peaks, Mount Clinton received
its name from some undiscoverable source, certainly
before 1837. Abel Crawford called it Bald Hill.

42 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS.

Mounts Clay and Jackson were named by Mr.
Oakes. This gentleman was with Professor Tuck-
erman, and sent up his guide Amasa Allen to build
a fire on the top of the south spur of Clinton, and
thus with a fiery baptism the mountain was chris-
tened Jackson. Mount Willard was named from
Mr. Sidney Willard of Boston ; and it is probable
that the name of Mount Webster was proposed by
Mr. Willard for the peak known to earlier visitors
as Notch Mountain. Lower down the Saco, Mounts
Crawford and Resolution, as well as the Giant's
Stairs, received names from Dr. S. A. Bemis. The
names of Tuckerman's Ravine, Oakes's Gulf, and
Bigelow's Lawn, were given in honor of three emi-
nent botanists who had particularly distinguished
themselves in the study of the White Mountain
flora, to three fine localities of plants as well as
marked topographical features. It is difficult to
ascertain the origin of many of the names of natu-
ral objects about the mountains. Dr. Bemis has
perhaps applied more appellations than any other
person to these features. He has been acquainted
with all the pioneers, and has for many years re-
sided in Hart's Location. Other names have been
given by chance visitors, and preserved by usage
among guides.

SUMMIT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON.
(The Depot and Summit Honso.)

THE STONE CABIN. 43

HOUSES ON THE SUMMIT.

Soon after the completion of a rude bridle-path
in 1819 by Ethan Crawford, it was perceived that
a house of some sort was needed upon the summit,
where visitors could spend the night. Hence
Mr. Crawford constructed a stone cabin near the
top of Mount Washington, by the side of a spring.
In this was spread an abundance of soft moss for
beds, and thus travellers could be enabled to view
the setting and rising of the sun. After awhile a
small stove was brought up, with an iron chest and
a long roll of sheet lead. The chest was the
receptacle for the camping blankets, — bear and
hedgehog-proof, — and the lead was the register
for visitors. Every winter this house was seriously
damaged. The roof would be blown away, and the
stones fall down from the walls, the chest and stove
remaining sadly rusted. Finally at the great storm
of August 27, 1826, when the Willey family were
destroyed by an avalanche, this cabin, with the iron
chest and the blankets, were also swept down the
steep slope and lost. A party had taken possession of
the building for the night, but were terrified by the
violence of the storm, and had hastened down the
mountain just in time to save their lives.

In 1852, J. S. Hall and L. M. Rosebrook built
the Summit House on the very top of the moun-

44 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS.

tain. It is twenty-four by sixty-four feet, quite
low, with very thick walls of stone firmly cemented
together, and bolted down to the solid rock. Over
the roof are four strong cables. This house has
now stood for nearly twenty years.

A year later the Tip-top House was built by
Samuel F. Spaulding & Co. It is twenty-eight by
eighty-four feet, and was (milt in the same substan-

O v

tial manner as the other. It had originally a deck
roof, upon which visitors could stand and secure
better views than from the ground. As shown in
one of our views the roof is now sharp pointed, and
it is not easy for most persons to climb to the ridge-
pole and remain there in comfort long enough to
enjoy the scenery. In the rear of the main rooms
of these houses are small sleeping apartments, best
compared with the state-rooms of a steamer in re-
spect to size, and furnished with very comfortable
beds. The ceiling is made of cotton cloth, and the
walls covered with boards and then papered. The
windows are in deep recesses on account of the great
thickness of the walls.

These two houses were originally under different
management. For the past twelve years they have
been leased by the proprietor of the Alpine House
in Gorham, and many thousand people have been
entertained in them. It is probable that much
more commodious quarters will soon be prepared foi

PUBLIC HOUSES. 45

visitors. The depot is the latest building that has
been erected upon the summit. This is shown in
one of our figures in its wintry aspect.

There has been a controversy concerning the
ownership of the land upon the summit of Mount
Washington. In the early legislation of New
Hampshire respecting the unoccupied lands of the
State, little attention was paid to exact boundaries ;
consequently each of the two parties claiming the
summit, has reason to believe it to be included
within their limits. Mr. Bellows, of Exeter, owns
the land upon the east side, and was the party in
possession till about fifteen years ago, when his
tenants were ejected by the sheriff acting for
Coe & Pingry, of Bangor, Maine, and Salem,
Massachusetts. Probably $25,000 have been spent
already in contesting the matter of ownership be-
fore the courts.

HOUSES AT THE BASE OF THE MOUNTAIN.

The first good public house for summer visitors
was built on the Giant's Grave, and came into the
hands of Mr. Fabyan. This was destroyed by fire
about twenty years since, and has never been re-
built. The White Mountain House was built by
Mr. Rosebrook, a descendant of the pioneer of that
name, about thirty years since. The Notch House,
kept by T. J. Crawford, is no longer in existence,

46 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS.

but its place has been more than made good by the
large and well kept establishment, a quarter of a
mile further north, known as the Crawford House.
Upon the east side, is the Glen House, at the lower
end of the Carriage Road, kept by J. M. Thomp-
son till his sudden death in 1869, and offered for
sale in 1871 by his heirs. This is the largest house
near Mount Washington, and can easily accommo-
date five hundred guests at one time.

CASUALTIES UPON THE MOUNTAIN.

Several persons have lost their lives upon Mount
Washington, generally in consequence of neglecting
the advice of guides. The first was an English
baronet, named Strickland. He went up from the
Notch late in October, 1851. Disregarding the ad-
vice of his guide, he pushed on to the summit. He
seems to have fallen down precipitous places sev-
eral times, and finally to have perished from ex-
haustion, probably in less than twelve hours after
he started.

On the 24th of September, 1855, Miss Lizzie
Bourne of Kennebunk, Maine, perished within
thirty rods of the summit. Wjth an uncle and
cousin she climbed the mountain on foot ; but after
reaching tire Half-way House, the clear sky dis-
appeared ; they became enveloped in a thick cloud,
and strong winds met them in front. Not knowing

CASUALTIES. 47

their nearness to the summit, they were compelled
to shelter themselves behind a few rough stones,
and Miss Bourne was not strong enough to sur-
vive the shock.

August 7, 1856, Benjamin Chandler of Wil-
mington, Delaware, started from the Glen House
for the summit late in the afternoon. It was rainy,
windy, and very cold. He was about seventy-five
years of age. He seems to have wandered from
the path, but no one knows how long he survived.
His remains were not found for more than a year,
when they were accidentally discovered about half
a mile east of the summit.

DR. BALL'S EXPERIENCE. .

A severer exposure was that of Dr. B. L. Ball,
of Boston, the last of October, 1855. This gentle-
man walked from the Glen House to the Half-way
House, while workmen were engaged in building
the Carriage Road. The mountain was covered
with clouds, and after climbing some distance above
the " Ledge " he returned to the camp and spent
the night with the laborers. The next morning the
clouds seemed about breaking, and he started with
the intention of reaching the summit if possible.
The rain was changed to sleet and snow, and the
temperature fell very much. Though very un-
comfortable, Dr. Ball believed himself to be near

48 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS.

the summit, and struggled on, understanding that
he could find provisions and shelter in one of the
houses there. His description of the storm is well
appreciated by our party : —

" I could not have believed that the storm could
be more violent than it had been. Yet here it was
more furious than ever. It now had the full sweep
of the mountain top, the highest point of the whole
group, of the loftiest mountain for hundreds of
miles around. If ten hurricanes had been in
deadly strife with each other, it could have been
no worse. The winds, as if locked in mortal
embrace, tore along, twisting and whirling, and
mingling their roaring with the flinty rattling of the
snow grains in one confused din."

It is not clear that Dr. Ball reached the summit.
Yet persons sometimes reach the summit without
knowing it. An incident of this sort is related
by Mr. Noyes, of Boston. One cloudy morning
he was standing in the door of the Summit House,
when he thought he heard the footsteps of some
one approaching. He listened, and soon discerned
in the fog, the form of a man. He watched him,
and saw him pass the house. Thinking the man
might be bewildered^ Mr. Noyes followed him, and
on coming up inquired : " Which way are you go-
ing, sir ? "

" Going? I am going to the Summit House, if
I can find it."

DR. BALL'S EXPERIENCE. 49

" How far do you expect to travel, to reach it ? "
inquired Mr. Noyes.

" Well, I don't know. I have been tugging on
for the last hour, expecting to find it. They told
me it was only a few miles along; and I should
think I had already been travelling fifteen ! "

" But the course you are on now," said Mr.
Noyes, " will take you over the other side to the
Crawford House. You have already passed the
Summit House." And the man was led back, as-
tonished to find he had passed one house ten rods
from the path, and the other but six.

Dr. Ball lost his way, and when night came on
he crawled behind some stunted bushes, and with
an umbrella contrived to shelter himself a little from
the wind. All the next day he wandered about in
the snow unable to find the way down, and the
second night was spent in the same place. The
following day he was found by a party of men very
weak but in good spirits. He had been for sixty
hours exposed to the severe winter weather of the
mountain, and had had no sleep for eighty, yet he
managed to keep himself alive without food or
water. His health was somewhat injured "by this
exposure, but there is no case on record in the an-
nals of Mount Washington experience, where any
person has survived such a terrible exposure as Dr.
B. L. Ball.

4

50 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS.
MOUNT WASHINGTON OBSERVATORY.

In 1854, Timothy Eaton of Jefferson, erecteo
upon the summit a sort of tower about forty feel
high, which was called an observatory. It was sc(
arranged that with a rope and gearing, a party of
eight persons could be elevated to its summit, and
have a much better view than from the top of the
mountain. This tower was very much like the
derricks used in boring wells for'petroleum in Penn-
sylvania. It cost about six hundred dollars. It
did not prove to be a profitable investment, and
was soon abandoned, not a trace of it remaining in
three years after its erection.

EARLIER WINTER VISITS TO THE SUMMIT.

Fear of accident has prevented most people from
attempting to climb Mount Washington in the
winter. In the month of November, 1855, a month
after Dr. Ball's experience, another party succeeded
in reaching the top in safety, and in enjoying a good
view. One of the most hardy men in the party
that rescued Dr. Ball, said that with a friend he at-
tempted to make the ascent in February ; but when
they arrived within a mile of the summit they were
obliged to turn back almost frozen.

Two successful attempts to reach the summit in
winter previous to 1870 are on record. The first

f
WINTER VISITS. 51

was made by Mr. Osgood of Lancaster, December
7, 1858, with a small party of friends. He was an
officer of the law, and went up to serve a legal
process upon the property there. His ascent was
thus described in the " Coos Republican : "

" Arrived at the summit, the view is represented
as having been sublime beyond the power of descrip-
tion, Mr. Osgood averring that in his many trips on
the mountain he never beheld so extended and yet
grand and terrific a view as burst upon them on
that lonely height. Measures were immediately
taken to enter the houses, which, as they were
covered with snow, was a labor of time. Unable
to obtain ingress at the doors, they forced their way
in through the windows, on which the frost had
formed a foot and a half in thickness. The walls
and all the furniture were draped with some four
inches of 'frost, and the air was biting in the ex-
treme. It was like a tomb, and a lamp was neces-
sary in this snow cavern, to enable the party to
distinguish the surrounding objects. As delay was
dangerous in the extreme, and having perfected
their legal duty, the two prepared to return. Upon
emerging from the houses they beheld to the south-
west a cloud, rapidly increasing in volume, and roll-
ing on toward them. When first seen it was small
in magnitude, but it increased in size with alarm-
ing velocity, soon spreading over the entire south.

52 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS.

They knew it was a frost cloud, and that to be
caught in its folds would probably be fatal, and they
hastened to avoid it. They had just entered the
woods, at the base of the ledge, when it came upon
them. So icy and penetrating was its breath, that
to have encountered its blinding, freezing power on
the unprotected height, would have been to have
perished with it as a pall to cover them. The party
reached the glen in safety, and were heartily wel-
comed by their friends, who, well knowing the
danger attending this never before accomplished
feat, awaited them with much anxiety."

The other ascent was made by a party from Lan-
caster, February 11, 1862. A record of their visit
is preserved in a stereograph, both on a card and as
a transparency, sold about the mountains. The view
is of the interior of the Summit House, showing a
small pile of snow upon a bedstead and other ob-
jects that had drifted in through a crack in the
building. The following account of this visit was
written by J. H. Spaulding, a member of the
party : —

" ASCENT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON IN FEBRUARY.

" Early in the morning of February 10, 1862,
F. White, C. C. Brooks, and J. H. Spaulding, all
of Lancaster, N. H., started from that place for
the top of Mount Washington. At eight o'clock

ASCENT IN FEBRUARY. 53

the same evening we started up the Mountain from
the Glen House.

" The moon was shining brightly, as with ample
packs and provisions we slowly walked up the car-
riage road on snow-shoes. The night was still,
and highly excited as we were by the thoughts of
the adventure before us, the spring of our shoes on
the glittering crust seemed music to us, while the
tree-shadows thrown across our path, and the white
winding road contrasting with the evergreen thick-
ets, combined to make our night walk quite varied
in incidents ; and it was past midnight when we '
arrived at ' The Ledge.' The great barn built
there last season, we found in ruins, and this, with
the fire-scathed trees, boldly relieved by moonlight,
the glittering ledge, and the dark old shanty in
the background, combined to present a very wild
picture.

" At the shanty we kindled a fire, took a lunch,
and upon an old straw bed, laid on a snow-drift,
drowsed until daybreak.

" At sunrise we started for the ' Tip Top,' with-
out snow-shoes. Soon began the labor of advan-
cing by cutting steps in the ice. When we halted
to rest we noticed the stillness that reigned around
us ; not a breath of air, not a sound of running
water, — for beneath a wintry robe every water-
fall was chained.

54 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS.

" How like blank solitude was this death-like
silence ! Yet its loneliness was pleasantly enlivened
by the wonderful and wide-spread landscape beneath
and around us, that afforded ample scope for admi-
ration. Far away, and near at hand, arose glittering
peaks. A thousand pyramids of smoke hung above
dark objects, that were roughly set in wide white
margins.

" What a host of hopes, fears, joys, and sorrows
were grouped in these homes below ! But we will
not speculate, for the task before us is to be accom-
"plished slowly and carefully.

" About five miles up, we came to a wide field of
ice, where we could not possibly advance without
cutting deep steps. It is not fiction to declare
that, as the pieces of ice went whirling down like
a heavy shower of hail, at least eight hundred feet
below, a shudder, such as teaches poor mortality
its weakness, came over us.

" One false step or careless motion, in such a
place, would have sent .us down, down, and given
us a name with other victims of rashness. About
six miles up, we came to a deep drift that covered
many acres ; and here, not being able to follow
the road, we wandered for a long way over snow
thrown up and hardened in fanciful wavy shapes.
At one place we climbed through the tops of a
dwarf growth, that had the appearance of a buried
wilderness.

THE TIP-TOP IN FEBRUARY, 1862. 55

" Here we took a lunch, and in a brisk south wind
that had been rising for the last half hour, found
the temperature 27° above zero.

" Looking towards Mount Carter, we beheld a
long line of black storm-clouds with rainbow tinted
borders, whirling wildly over, and filled with fear
for the coming night, up we hastened, — yet gained
our object slowly, for at one time, when I had
slipped down, I looked, and both of my compan-
ions were down too; but remembering the old
adage that ' misery loves company,' I kept silent.

" As we approached the Tip-top a heavy black
cloud was whirling over ; and as the wind with a

O *

roar like thunder drove the wintry mass toward
us, we became enveloped in its embrace, and soon
the snow and frost had so whitened, that per-
chance old winter was never better personated
than by us.

" Words are a very imperfect medium by which
to picture the scene that the Tip-top presented.
The two houses stand out in bold relief, and every
rock-heap and great rocks about the summit, are
now to be seen through a thick covering of glitter-
ing ice. Curious leaves of snow stand out from
the jagged parts on the northerly side, in all the
imaginable and fanciful shapes that the frost has
ever pictured on the window glass. For the last
half mile below the top, we could distinctly see

56 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS.

through the ice and snow the wheel tracks made
in the carriage road last season ; and with the
exception of now and then a deep drift, the whole
mountain summit shows its rocks. There is a
great drift at the southerly end of the two houses,
and hardened snow has leveled up the irregular top
so that with the exception of the eternal wind, it is
comfortable walking on the crusted or ice-pointed
snow.

" The tops of both houses are thickly coated with
solid ice, — rough and pointed in all imaginary
shapes. We walked up on to the drift, broke
away ice from the southerly gable-end window of
the 'Summit House,' and taking" out a window
entered the attic, where, after removing the snow,
we brought up, from the darkness and icy confusion
of a lower room, a stove, got some wood from the
Tip-top House, kindled a fire, and piling around
our little stove a barricade of mattresses, prepared
to pass the night.

" The heavy wind swept by like thunder, and
we slept.

" Two days' labor and excitement, with our
midnight walk to the ' Ledge,' had imposed quite a
tax upon our powers of endurance, and we heeded
not the tempest that was gathering, till late in the
morning we found our habitation in a wild, thick
storm. Language cannot paint the hopes and fears

THE TIP-TOP IN FEBRUARY, 1862. 57

that struggle in the mind at such a time. But to
make the best of our condition, we prepared for a
siege, and looked about.

" The interior of both houses we found much de-
ranged by the winter storm. Snow and ice, from
three inches to five feet deep, lay piled in all direc-
tions, the furniture being most curiously set in
feathery white casings.

" In the bar-room we noticed a spade which was
cased in clear ice ; and in one place a little cord,
suspended from the roof, had assumed the appear-
ance of a glass tube some two inches thick and two
feet long. The cloth roofing and wall paper is in
many rooms torn down, while fancy snow-wreaths
and icicles are all around upon the walls and roof.
The darkened windows, with the thick covering

o

without, combined with the ceaseless roar of the
wind, gave the whole scene a chilling air of deso-
lation. %

" To conclude without longer taxing the reader's
patience. We stayed two days and two nights on
the top of Mount Washington ; experienced the
effect of a wild snow-storm that drove by us for
thirty-six hours, had one of the most magnificent
sunrise scenes that imagination can picture ; saw
the sun go down in a vast snow-bank ; saw moon-
light upon a hundred glittering peaks ; found the
most extreme cold while there indicated at 5° be-

58 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS.

low zero ; returned to the Glen in a thick snow
storm, and now feel perfectly satisfied with our
trip.

" We were remarkably well satisfied with v the
weather, and were very lucky about climbing over
the ice-clad rocks. Should others attempt to go
up among the clouds, for their own sake they
should go thoroughly prepared for the worst.

N" An iron-pointed staff, with an axe, and plenty
of food and clothing, are indispensable."

Our expedition, therefore, was undertaken in the
face of all previous experience among the moun-
tains, excepting our own the previous season on .
Moosilauke. Failure was universally predicted.
Indeed, it was commonly reported in Bethlehem,
and Littleton, in January and February, that one
of the party had been frozen to death, and was at
the summit embalmed in ice, waiting for the advent
of the railroad train, so that he might be taken to
some cemetery below. But we have clearly proved
to the world that it is possible for men to spend the
winter upon this frozen peak, and not to be deprived
of a weekly mail. So much finer are the winter
views from the summit than those of any other sea-
son of the year, that we anticipate shortly the occu-
pation of one of the hotels for the benefit of visitors

IN THE FUTURE.

59

in all months of the year, and should not be greatly
surprised to learn that the engine had made its way
through the drifts, in some favorable season, to the
very highest accessible point.

CHAPTER IV.

THE APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON.

ROM a distance, the routes toward the
White Mountains are quite numerous, and
their respective advantages are fully set
forth in the guide books. There are now three
ways of ^ascending Mount Washington from below :
two from the west and one from the east ; or a rail-
way, a carriage road, and a bridle path.

The first path to the summit was marked out by
Ethan Crawford in 1819. The visitors by this time
had become so numerous that a path was indispen-
sable, at least as far as to the beginning of the Al-
pine region. Its construction immediately increased
the number of visitors. This path commenced at
the Giant's Grave, following the Ammonoosuc Val-
ley to the base of Washington, and then passing up
a ridge or spur of the mountain. At some period
there was a path branching off from this to the sum-
mit of Mount Pleasant. In 1840, the bridle path
was cut from the Notch over Mounts Clinton, Pleas-
ant, Franklin, and Monroe to Washington. This
is nine miles in length.

CARRIAGE ROAD. 61

Soon afterwards a longer bridle-path was cut from
the Mount Crawford House, in Hart's Location, to
the summit of Mount Washington, by Mr. Davis.
This passed first over Mount Crawford, and from
thence along the east side of Dry- or Mount Wash-
ington River. It is now wholly disused.

Still later, the path between the Fabyan House
and " Cold Spring," or the base of Washington, was
enlarged, and became a carriage road. This was

O ' O

in use, though kept in poor repair, till it was super-
seded by the " Fabyan Turnpike " in 1866. The
earlier road lay mostly upon the south side of the
river, below what is now known as Twin River.
Cold Spring is perhaps a quarter of a mile higher
up the mountain than the lower depot, or what is
called " Marshfield " upon the guide-board at the
entrance of the turnpike.

MOUNT WASHINGTON CARRIAGE ROAD COMPANY.

In June, 1853, a company was chartered to build
a carriage road from the Glen to the Tip Top House,
with a capital stock of fifty thousand dollars. It
was organized September 1, 1853, by the choice of
president, secretary, and directors. The length of
this road is a little less than eight miles. . Its course
is indicated upon our map. The work of its con-
struction commenced in 1855. By its original de-
sign, the road was to be sixteen feet wide, macad-

62 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON.

amized, and to have a protection-wall three feet
high in dangerous places. The road was completed
as far as the " Ledge," or half way, in 1856. In
1861 it was completed to the summit. It is nearly
double the length of the old bridle-path, as the
grade must necessarily be much less. The average
grade is twelve feet in one hundred, and the steep-
est is about sixteen feet in one hundred, two and
one half miles from the Glen. The road was com-
menced under the superintendence of C. H. V.
Cavis, engineer. The road is kept in excellent re-
pair, and the rates of toll are not burdensome, con-
sidering the expense of building. There is a small
house half-way up the mountain, at the point where
the trees terminate and the arctic zone commences.
But the greatest triumph ' of engineering skill is
upon the west side of the mountain, and is what is
sometimes fancifully called the Sky Railway.

MOUNT WASHINGTON RAILWAY.

During the season of summer travel, steam cars
run daily (Sundays excepted) over the Mount
Washington Railway, an iron track running \\\> the
west side of the mountain to the very summit, a
distance of two miles and thirteen sixteenths, and
an ascent of 3,625 feet. There is a small collection
of buildings at the lower end of the railroad, seven
miles from the White Mountain House, and twenty-
four from Littleton.

MOUNT WASHINGTON RAILWAY. 63

The first effort in the direction of ascending
Mount Washington by steam power seems to have
been made by Mr. Sylvester Marsh, formerly of
Chicago, Illinois, and Roxbury, Massachusetts, but
now residing at Littleton, New Hampshire, and the
president of the railway company. He invented
the special contrivances needed to adapt motive
machines to a highly inclined plane.

It was found very difficult at the outset to con-
vince mechanicians and capitalists of the feasibility
of this ascending railway. Even an inspection of
the working models failed to give much satisfaction.
One prominent railroad manager is said to have
thrown aside the early letters of Mr. Marsh as the
writing of a maniac. The work was commenced,
relying chiefly upon his own private resources, and
little encouragement was afforded by capitalists till
an engine was actually running over a portion of
the route.

Application was made to the Legislature of New
Hampshire in 1858 to grant a charter for a steam
railway from their bases to the summits of Mounts
Washington and Lafayette. A model of the inven-
tion was exhibited, and it was stated that the peti-
tioner and his friends would assume the expense of
the enterprise. The petition was received with de-
rision. An amendment was offered by the " wit of
the house," that a charter be granted for a railroad

64 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON.
from the summit of Mount Washington to the

O

moon ! The Legislature, however, after sufficient
deliberation, charitably granted a charter, allowing
the cars to run for twenty years, or a longer time
if not then abrogated, in accordance with the usual
formulas of railroad laws in New Hampshire. It
is also provided that it .must keep a proper dis-
tance from the carriage road coming up from the
Glen House, either the constructed or surveyed
route, except by consent of the owners of the latter.
The actual work of construction did not commence
for a number of years.

THE FABYAN TURNPIKE.

As a preliminary operation, it was found desirable
to build a new turnpike from the stage road near
the White Mountains to the point where the ascent
by rail should commence. Work upon it began in
April, 1866. It is located along the Ammonoosuc
River for six miles, starting at the old Fabyan stand,
about five miles northwest of the Crawford House.
The route has nearly the same objective point as
the older carriage road, but at the beginning it lies
along the north bank of the river. The toll-gate is
upon what was formerly called the " Giant's Grave,"
a long mound of river gravel, deposited in past mil-
lenniums by the Ammonoosuc, though at first by
some geologists fancied to have been made by the

FAB Y AN TURNPIKE. 65

reaction of oceanic waves against the hill-side. A
company has been formed to erect a commodious
hotel here, but, for some reason not made known to
the public, the work has been delayed. The old
" Giant's Grave " has been entirely removed, much
to the regret of the community, especially as the
necessity for the expensive grading is not apparent.
Just within the toll-gate are the graves of some of
the Crawford family and others. , The road passes
over steep hills of gravel, and then through the
woods north of the river to the " Upper Falls."
These continue for about three hundred feet, the
water falling about fifty feet and winding through
a narrow, zigzag gorge. After further windings in
the forest, the road arrives at " Twin River," so
called because a tributary runs parallel to the Am-
monoosuc for a considerable distance, making the
stream double. The bridge is on the west border of a
clearing of perhaps one hundred acres, called " Twin
River Farm." This clearing is tolerably free from
boulders, and is quite productive, and the next sum-
mer's visitors may be fortunate enough to taste of
the early vegetables grown here. This spot is about
five hundred feet above the White Mountain House,
and it is spoken of as possibly the site of the future
junction of the Mount Washington Railway with
the extension of the Boston, Concord, and Montreal
from near Littleton. The land rises more rapidly

5

66 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON. '

above Twin River, so that ordinary locomotives
cannot pass this point. A small dwelling-house
has already been erected here.

After two miles more of travelling through the
woods up " Winding Hill " we reach the end of tlit
turnpike. Here are a few buildings, consisting of a
hotel, two large barns, one or two dwelling-houses,
a steam saw-mill, and the various edifices necessary
for the accommodation of a railroad. The village
is inhabited in the winter by a party of lumbermen.
The turnpike is kept in excellent repair, the tolls
being sufficient to keep it in good condition. Its
cost was upwards of $10,000.

THE RAILROAD.

The railroad was commenced in May, 1866. It
starts from a point 2,668 feet above the level of the
sea, and 3,625 below the summit. The distance
traversed is two miles and thirteen sixteenths. The
average grade is 1,300 feet to the mile, the maxi-
mum being 1,980 feet to the mile, or thirteen and a
half inches to the yard. There are nine curves on
the line,_yarying from 497 to 945 feet radius. The
first year the road was built a distance of about a
quarter of a mile. In 1867, the track was extended
to " Waumbek Junction," a distance of one mile
and eight rods. Work was resumed May 7, 1868,
and in eighty-four working days it had advanced

4 TIIE RAILROAD. 67

more than a mile, or to the top of " Jacob's Ladder."
The work was continued till the cold weather set
in, and the last few rods of the track were laid in
July, 1869.

The road was built under the superintendence of
J. J. Sanborn of Franklin, New Hampshire. The
cost of the road has already exceeded $120,000, and
when the depots, turn-outs, and rolling stock are
fully completed, it will reach about $150,000.
About 800,000 feet of sawed lumber have been
used in its construction, all of which was cut at the
steam mill near the depot.

The track consists of three rails, the outer four
feet seven and one half inches apart, which sustain
the principal weight of the rolling stock, the inner
a cog-rail, which is the indispensable peculiarity of
this railway. All three of the rails rest upon tim-
bers laid lengthwise upon sawed ties three and a
half feet apart. The lateral timbers were originally
covered by a narrow strip of iron, but these are
rapidly giving way to a small T rail of more mod-
ern appearance. The central rail is four inches
wide, and is surmounted by two pieces of wrought
angle iron, each twelve feet long, three inches wide,
and three eighths of an inch thick. These strips
are placed upon their edges, parallel to each other,
and are connected by strong iron pins an inch and
a half in diameter, and four inches apart from cen-

68 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON.

»

tre to centre. It may be likened to a ladder fast-
ened to a wide plank. This cog-rail is held down
by spikes and flanges. . The teeth of the driving-
wheel of the engine play into the spaces between
the bolts, arid as it revolves the whole engine is
made to move, resting upon the outer rail. The
operation is practically one cog-wheel working into
another. These cog-rails have cost about two dol-
lars per foot delivered at the foot of the mountain.

THE ENGINE.

At the first view of the engine, one is reminded
of a pile-driver. The boiler is upright, tubular,
and is bolted firmly to the frames. There is a
covering for the engineer, and a tender is attached
for storing water and fuel, as in ordinary railroad
engines. The driving-shaft is connected with two
cylinders, with a crank shaft geared into the centre
so as to reduce the speed and multiply the power.
A twenty-four inch gear works into a six-inch gear,
and the engine makes four revolutions to one of the

o

driver. Thus the contrivances in this mountain
engine are adapted to develop power at the expense
of the speed. Force may also be required at times
to hold the train at rest upon a high grade. When
moving, the engine always takes the down-hill end
of the train. In ascending, a strong wrought-iron
" dog " works into a wheel rolling on the cog-rail,

STOPPING THE TRAIN. 69

preventing the train from falling back a single inch.
The accompanying sketch will give a good idea of
the engine.

The contrivances for stopping the train are also
ingenious and peculiar. First is the friction brake,
consisting of an iron band extending around each
wheel, tightened at will. Second is the power of
reversing the driving wheel. Next there are atmos-
pheric brakes upon each side of the cars. Their
application is so successful that a platform or pas-
senger car may be detached from the engine and
lowered by itself, being completely under the con-
trol of the brakeman. The mechanics who came
up in 1866 and 1868 to witness the operation of the
engine, satisfied themselves perfectly of the adapt-
edness of these atmospheric brakes to their office.
These brakes enable the train to descend without
the use of steam. There are in all five or six ways
of stopping the trains.

Notwithstanding the perfection of these contriv-
ances, many persons apprehend that there is a lia-
bility to serious disasters. Such may have their
fears removed by recalling the occurrence of July
29, 1869. When the train was descending " Ja-
cob's Ladder," the steepest grade upon the whole
road, an unusual noise was heard beneath the en-
gine. .The engineer signaled the brakeman to stop
the train, but the warning was not noticed at first.

70 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON.

The signal was quickly repeated^ and in an instant
the brake was applied, and the train stopped. It
appeared that the axle of the driving wheel had
broken. Such a casualty up^on an ordinary locomo-
tive is of a very serious nature, and usually involves
the destruction of the train. But this mountain
train was stopped in an instant, and the detached
wheels scarcely changed their positions, while no
very sensible jar was experienced by the passen-
gers. This occurrence has demonstrated that the
train is completely under the control of the engi-
neer ; for a more serious accident, or one in a more
dangerous position could not have happened, yet no
injuries were received by any one. Hence so long
as the track is kept in good condition, no one need
be apprehensive of danger in travelling over the
Mount Washington Railway.

The first engine brought to the mountain was
built by Campbell, Whittier, and Company, of Rox-
bury, Mass., at a cost of $3,000. It weighs about
four tons, and is rated at twenty-five horse-power.
Three new ones (see the figure) have been built
by Walter Aiken, of Frarfklin, N. H., each weigh-
ing six and a half tons, and rated at about fifty
horse-power ; but on account of the gearing they
are practically two hundred horse-power. The car-
riage for passengers resembles a horse-car, though
longer, with a roof, side windows, and doors at the

A STEEP GRADE. 71

ends. There is an aisle through the centre, and
seats are provided for forty- eight persons. In the
first cars used, the seats were swung so as to secure
for them a horizontal position upon all the grades.
Walking through the car is like travelling up and
down the roof of a building. Some of the cars have
the sides open, and can be used only when the
weather is sure to be warm, and the wind is not
boisterous.

THE ROUTE.

The lower depot is upon the west bank of the
Ammonoosuc, at the end of the turnpike. It is a
plain wooden edifice about sixty feet long, with
two stories. The stream is crossed by trestle-work
about fifteen feet high, and the track commences
with the grade of seventeen hundred feet to the
mile, nearly as steep as upon " Jacob's Ladder."
Place the end of a ladder thirty feet long upon a
fence ten feet high, and an adequate idea of the in-
clination of the railway at its commencement will
be exhibited to us. This steep incline does not
continue more than three hundred feet. At three
quarters of* a mile' is the first water station. The
water comes from a spring very near the track, a
little beyond " Cold Spring," which affords a de-
lightful halting place for pedestrians. Before reach-
ing "Waumbek Junction" the grade becomes
steeper again. The " Junction " is one mile and

72 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON.

eight rods in distance, and 1,242 feet higher than
the starting point. The name is derived from the
intersection here of the old Fabyan and Waumbek
bridle-paths. At the Junction is a small unused
building and a water-tank. Up to this point the
road is nearly straight, and a wide path has been
cut for it through the forest. Just beyond there
are curves in the track, the trees begin to be
dwarfed, and very shortly there is a cut through a
ledge of andalusite gneiss, the first rock passed over
in the ascent. The railway -also intersects the
Fabyan bridle-path just above Waumbek Junction
and at the foot of " Jacob's Ladder."

This latter appellation was originally applied to
a zigzag portion of the Fabyan path over a steep
projection of the mountain. It now relates to a
portion of the railroad in the neighborhood, a long
trestle-work, at one point thirty feet high, and with
an inclination of more than one in three for three
hundred feet. This structure is built as strongly
as any similar work upon an ordinary railroad which
has to sustain a weight many times greater. Its
elevation above the ground, the steep, grade, the
abrupt change in the vegetation from trees to lich-
ens, the impressive views of the valleys, and com-
monly the first indications of the powerful winds of
the upper air, forcibly arrest the attention of the
passengers, especially as every upward train stops at

THE SHOULDER OF THE MOUNTAIN. 73

the tank to receive an additional supply of water.
This tank is 2,800 feet above the starting point and
is filled from springs higher up the mountain, the
water being conveyed by lead pipes several hun-
dred feet.

Above Jacob's Ladder the inclination is not very
steep, there being only about eight hundred feet of
ascent, in the remaining distance of more than a
mile. The main ridge between Mounts Clay and
Washington is soon reached, and the traveller
can look down a thousand feet into the " Gulf of
Mexico," or the deep chasm out of which rises the
West Branch of Peabody River, one of the tributa-
ries of the Androscoggin. The fourth and last of
the water-tanks is placed at a level of 3,132 feet
above the depot. The further ascent is gradual, the
broad shoulder of the mountain presenting the char-
acteristic features of arctic desolation, — a wide ex-
panse of large angular blocks of schist and granite,
severed from the now concealed ledges by the freez-
ing agencies of centuries. Between the fragments
may be seen clumps of saxifrages, sandworts, and
reindeer moss, the same species of plants which en-
liven the barren wastes of Labrador and Greenland.
As far as the upper limit of trees, boulders that
have been transported by the glacial drift from
more northern summits are common. They rapidly
diminish in number and size upon that point, and

74 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON.

have not been seen far above the fourth water-tank,
or above an altitude of 5,800 feet. The last land-
mark of interest along the railway is the " Lizzie
Bourne " monument, thirty rods from the summit.

During the height of the season (Sundays ex-
cepted) double trains will run up the Mount Wash-
ington railway, from the middle of June to the first
of October. The up-trains pass over the distance
in ninety minutes, or at the rate of two miles per
hour, stopping to take in water at each of the four
tanks. The descent is accomplished in less time,
as there is no occasion to stop for water on the
way down. One needs to ascend two or three times
before the sense of danger is entirely dissipated, so
that he can appreciate and enjoy the novel condi-
tions of the journey.

SLIDING DOWN HILL.

The employees of the company often amuse
themselves by sliding down the railway upon a
board. There are two ways of arranging this
vehicle of conveyance. The simplest and safest is
to place the board across -the central rail, and the
person sitting upon it checks his course with his
feet, one upon each side of the rail, striking against
the ties, forty inches apart. The body must lean
backwards a little, else an occasional irregularity in
the rail will stop the progress of the board, and the

OTHER MOUNTAIN RAILWAYS. 75

passenger will be thrown off', at the risk of breaking
a limb. By the other method the board, perhaps a
yard long, has two narrow strips nailed beneath, so
that it cannot slip off the rail, and the experimenter
can put his feet upon it, using short sticks as brakes
to diminish the speed. The board does not fit so
closely to the rail as in the first instance, so that
there is less danger from a sudden stop ; but there
is danger that the brakes may become unmanagea-
ble. By the first method a vast amount of muscular
energy is demanded in the thighs, and those who
try it, will have occasion to remember their journey
for days afterwards, whenever attempting to walk.
Persons have been known to slide the whole
distance in ten minutes, but strangers are advised
to avoid these " new methods." Our figure illus-
trating the laying of the Kerite wire shows how the
slope may be easily descended.

OTHER MOUNTAIN RAILWAYS.

It is not a new idea to use a cog-wheel upon a
railway, as the first road in England where steam
was applied to locomotion, was constructed with
notched rails. Ordinary railroads do not require
them, as there is sufficient friction between the rail
and the wheels for all practical purposes. There is
a railway over Mount Cenis, between France and
Italy, which uses a different method for climbing

76 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON.

high grades. The power is obtained by a "V
friction rail " — occupying a central position, just
as on Mount Washington. The rail is shaped like
two V's, Y, and two horizontal wheels running in
the grooves give rise to sufficient friction to draw
the trains. The grades are not over four hundred
feet to the mile. The European method would
certainly not be applicable to the inclination of the
American road, while it may answer very well for
so small a grade as that employed in the Alps. It
is stated that a road is in process of construction in
South America, up the Andes, modeled after Mr.
Marsh's inventions.

RAILWAY UPON MOUNT RHIGI.

When our American railway was in process of
construction it was visited by a Swiss engineer,
who took away drawings, etc., of the machinery and
track, and has employed them since in the con-
struction of a railway up Mount Rhigi in Switzer-
land, five thousand five hundred feet high. The
road is about seventeen thousand feet long, and
none of the grades exceed about one foot in four.
The trestle-work is of iron, sometimes over a hun-
dred feet high, and there are cuttings in the rock
for the road-bed ; in one case there is a tunnel one
hundred and eighty feet long. The sleepers are
two feet apart, and there is a double track. The

OFFICERS OF THE RAILROAD. 77

cars are like omnibuses, seating forty-five persons
below, and thirty-six on top. Tiie total cost of the
road has been two hundred and fifty thousand dol-
lars. Not less than fifty thousand people visit
Rhigi annually, and there are three daily trains
both ways to accommodate them. The speed is
greater than on Washington, the whole route being
traversed in one hour. The centre cog-rail, the
peculiar feature of the American road, is in use, and
thus the new world has set an example worthy of
imitation to an older country. The starting point
is at Vitznau on the Lake of the Four Cantons.

The officers of the Mount Washington Railroad
for 1868 were Sylvester Marsh, of Littleton, Presi-
dent ; J. E. Lyon, of Boston, Hon. Henry Keyes,
of Newbury, Vermont, Judge Upham, Hon. Ons-
low Stearns, and Nathaniel White, of Concord, New
Hampshire, Directors. These directors represent
by their chief officers the B. C. & M. R. R., C. &
P. R. R., C. R. R., N. R. R., of New Hampshire,
and the Cheney Express Company. These are the
companies whose interests are promoted by the
prosperity of the mountain railway.

MR. MARSH'S PATENTS.

Some may be interested in a more particular de-
scription of the inventions pertaining to this railway

78 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON.

and rolling stock. For such we have copied speci-
fications from the letters patent issued by the
United States to Sylvester Marsh, the inventor and
patentee. The first is No. 44,965, dated Novem-
ber 8, 1864, and relates to the atmospheric brake :

" Most or all the brakes heretofore constructed
or in use involve the principle of the application
of power, directly or indirectly, to a mechanism
whereby friction is produced of an intensity propor-
tionate, to the power applied. For reasons too well
known to persons acquainted with this particular
branch of the art, it is dangerous and expensive to
use brakes of such construction on inclined planes.

" The object of this invention is the construction
of a brake which on account of the absence of ex-
cessive friction on the wheels or on the rails, are
less destructive to the road and material ; a brake
in which power of man is applied neither directly,
i. e., through the intermediary of chains or levers
to the wheels or to the rails, and in which power
produced obtained at no inconsiderable cost is not
wasted, i. e., absorbed by the mechanism actuating
the brake ; and, lastly, a brake the force of which
may be regulated at the pleasure of the attendant.
And my invention consists —

" In coupling one or more wheels of railway car-
riages, locomotives, or other wheeled vehicle or ap-
paratus with a movable piston or diaphragm of a

ATMOSPHERIC BRAKES. 79

cylinder filled with air, or other more or less elastic
fluid, in combination with valves or other equiva-
lent means for regulating the egress from, and the
ingress to, or the displacement in the said cylinder
of the contents thereof," etc.

In letters-patent No. 101,895, dated April 12,
1870, there is described an " improvement in at-
mospheric brakes for railway cars." He says : "In
the practical operation of this apparatus, I have
found that although in the upward travel of the car
the valves or faucets are left open, yet it takes ^some
power to move the piston and small gears used in
the apparatus. For these, under my former ar-
rangement, must move with the wheels, as it would
be dangerous to uncouple them, because they are
needed for instant use in case any accident should
happen during the ascent.

" My object in the present invention is to so
combine the coupling devices with the piston or
pistons, that the latter shall remain at rest during
the ascent of the car, and yet be ready for instan-
taneous operation, should any accident occur which
might otherwise cause the car to descend.

" To this end I combine with the car-axle and
wheels, and the piston or pistons and their coup-
lings, a ratchet and pawl, clutch or equivalent de-
vice, operating to permit the free rotation of the
wheels during the ascent without communicating

80 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON.

motion to the piston, and in case of the reverse
movement or descent of the car, to at once throw
the pistons in communication with the wheels, for
the purpose of retarding or of completely arresting
their movement, as may be desired."

The earliest patent was dated September 10,
1861, and was for " locomotive engines for ascend-
ing inclined planes."

" The present invention relates to that class of
locomotives which is used in ascending very steep
grades, and has for its objects, first, obtaining suffi-
cient power to ascend a steep inclination with a
light locomotive, instead of a heavy and cumber-
some one, such as has heretofore been necessarily
used ; second, preventing the possibility of the en-
gine being thrown off', or lifted and ungeared from
the track, by the interposition of any obstruction
thereon, and the means employed for checking and
stopping the progress of the train."

In a letter of May 4, 1871, Mr. Marsh says that
he has applied for another patent for an engine.
Its peculiarity consists of a driving gear at each
end, with four cylinders and a horizontal boiler.

Letters-patent No. 61,221, dated January 15,
1867, relate to " improved cog-rail for railroads."

" The object of my invention is to construct a
rail suitable for use on roads of steep grades. It
need not, however, be limited to this use, as it may

IMPROVED COG-RAIL. 81

also be put to many uses for which the ordinary rack
is employed in combination with gear. To accom-
plish my object, I take two pieces or bars of angle
iron, connected by pins or rollers, which, at suita-
ble intervals from one another, have their bearings
in the upright sides of the angle iron, thus forming
a rack or cog-rail with which the gear of the car
truck can engage. The two bars of angle iron,
which should be of wrought metal, are bolted, or
otherwise secured to timber of proper size and di-
mensions, so as to be parallel with each other, being
so placed, that their flat sides, by which they are
bolted to the timber, shall be exterior to the space
included between their upright sides. The rollers
or cogs, which have their bearings in the upright
sides, are placed at suitable distances from one an-
other to correspond with the distances between the
teeth of the truck- wheel and are preferably so con-
structed and arranged as to turn or revolve in
their bearings. This, however, is not absolutely
essential, for the pins or cogs may be rigidly con-
nected with the uprights. But I prefer the arrange-
ment shown in the drawings, as friction is thereby
lessened, and the wear of the metal which the pas-
sage of the truck-wheels over the rail would oth-

O

erwise occasion, is in a great measure prevented.
An important feature of the cog-rail thus con-
structed, is, that its open structure will, in most
6

82 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON.

cases, keep the pins or rollers from being clogged by
ice or snow or dirt to such a degree as to be unfitted
for use, the liability to which constitutes one of the
most serious drawbacks to the employment of the
ordinary rack for that purpose. The open space
between, beneath, and in fact on all sides of the
cogs, except at the points where they are hung in
the uprights, is entirely open, so that comparatively
little obstacle is offered to the passage of the wheels
over the rails, even when the latter are overlaid with
snow."

TRIAL TRIP.

The first public trial trip of the engines upon the
Mount Washington Railway, took place August
29, 1866. A large party of railroad presidents,
superintendents, etc., were present, and it was the
inspection of the practical operation of the engines
at this time that led the public to believe that the
enterprise was feasible. The road had been com-
pleted about a quarter of a mile, and trains were
kept running up and down for two hours, during
which time it is supposed that every one of the
assembly rode upon the train. The mechanics and
engineers present managed the engine for them-
selves, repeatedly stopping and starting again on the
way up and down. Mr. Marsh and his assistants
were unremitting in their efforts to explain every
part of the machinery and to answer all questions.

THE RAILWAY. 83

The party were well pleased with the road and its
appurtenances, and at the White Mountain House
the same day, passed the following resolutions : —

" Resolved, That we have witnessed with deep in-
terest the trial trips made this day on the railroad
now being constructed to the summit of Mount
Washington, and would express our full confidence
in the scientific principles of its construction and its
practical and safe mode of operation.

" Resolved, That we regard the construction of this
road as the commencement of a new era in the ap-
plication of steam power in overcoming grades over
high summits and mountain ascents, so as to open
new means of business enterprise and greatly en-
large the facilities of enjoyment of the best and
noblest scenery of the country.

" Resolved, that Sylvester Marsh, by his great
skill and ingenuity in the invention of his newly
constructed mode of railway for ascending high
grades, and his energy and efficiency in its practical
application, is entitled to the high appreciation and
regard of his fellow-citizens and is richly deserving
our tribute to him as a public benefactor."

OPENING OR THE RAILWAY.

The road was formally opened to the public
August 14, 1868, at which time it was completed
as far as Jacob's Ladder. A large party of rail-

84 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON.

road officials and others were present, rode up the
mountain, walked to the summit, and returned the
same afternoon. The occasion was one of great
interest.

These gentlemen came by special train to Lit-
tleton, thence by stages to the White Mountain
House, where they spent the night. The day for
the ascent was clear and cold, the thermometer
standing at 38° Fahrenheit in the morning. At
eight o'clock they started for the depot. The im-
pression had gone abroad that the trip up and down
the mountain was to be a free affair for all who
chose to participate therein, and therefore all the
guests of the adjacent hotels and the residents of
the vicinity had assembled in order to ride up the
mountain. As they arrived first the cars were
crowded before the invited guests made their ap-
pearance. It therefore became necessary to request
those who had come uninvited — and a large num-
ber were ladies — to give up their places to the
guests of the day, many of whom had journeyed
hundreds of miles to be present. It was generously
proposed to send the cars down again for those who
were thus left behind, but it was found to be im-
practicable, and word to tl&t effect was sent back
by telegraph.

The two engines were used, and both trains
started at twenty-two minutes past ten. The

VISIT OF PRESIDENT GRANT. 85

newer and more stylish turnout took the lead and
transported the majority of the party, amounting
to fifty or sixty. The other train carried about
forty persons. For some reason the progress was
slow, rather more than three hour's time having
been consumed on the way to Jacob's Ladder.
The party went on foot the rest of the way to the
Summit, where about two hundred visitors had
assembled from the Glen, Crawford, and other
houses. At the Tip-top House, a bountiful din-
ner was provided, which was highly appreciated
after the scramble up the arctic zone. The dis-
tant view was impaired by a hazy atmosphere, and
the air was cool but the day was pleasant, and
everything conspired to make the excursion success-
ful. The stay at the summit was brief, and after
embarkation on the trains good speed was made, the
downward journey being accomplished in an hour
and a half.

In 1869, General Grant with his family visited
Mount Washington. They ascended upon the
railway, and were much pleased with their trip.
Though so many of the White Mountain peaks
have received their names from the Presidents of
the United States, it is not known that any one of
them has ever before been honored by the presence
of the Chief Executive.

86 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON.

About five thousand persons were carried over
the Mount Washington Railway, in 1870, or a
majority of those who ascended during the whole
season.

CHAPTER V.

MOOSILAUKE.

OT being able to secure a house on the
summit of Mount Washington in 1869,
we determined, as an experiment, to oc-
cupy the summit of Moosilauke for two months.
This mountain is in the town of Benton, but it is
approached from the village of Warren, from which
place there is now a carriage road to the summit.
It was late autumn before any preparations were
made. Wood had to be hauled up a mountain
bridle-path more than a mile, and this was no small
task at this season of the year ; a room had to be
fitted up and provisions taken to the summit. On
the 23d of November, having obtained men and
horses, we attempted to make the ascent.

As we came where the trees were small, we per-
ceived that it was growing cold. When a mile
from the summit, we were met by such a blast of
wind, with driving snow, that we were compelled
to halt. The men who had gone forward soon re-
turned, driven back by the fierceness of the blast.

88 MOOSILAUKE.

They reported that the snow was in such immense
drifts that it would be impossible for the horses to
pass. Our only resource was to return to the foot
of the mountain. The contrast between our even-
ing meal and the dinner before starting, was strik-
ing. Then all was life and animation, the conversa-
tion sparkling with wit and humor ; but a chill had
been cast over the whole group; some were in
agony from frosted feet ; some, if their ears were not
frozen, were suffering pain from the effects of the
cold, while others were lame from their severe
efforts in climbing the mountain. One only of the
group was jubilant and hopeful, the pioneer of this
mountain, James Clement, who will be recognized
by all that have visited Moosilauke, for they will
remember the remarkable stories by which he has
beguiled the weary hours while making the ascent
of the mountain, not unfrequently drawing upon his
imagination to make them more vivid than if re-
lated in plain language without any embellishment.
While each had something of which to complain,
he would say, " that the worst was over," and
there was probably not one besides him, who had
any idea of trying again to reach the summit before
the sun of another summer had melted the snow.
But morning came, the snow was crisp, the air
was cool, and the mountain stood out in clear, sharp
outline against the deep blue sky. Everything

UP AND DOWN THE MOUNTAIN. 89

now seemed propitious, and we determined to make
another attempt to reach the summit, and in this
we were successful. For two days the weather
was charming, but on the- third the mountain was
enveloped in clouds, and the frozen mist adhered
to everything with which it came in contact ; the
horses instead of being bay and iron-gray were of
snowy whiteness, and the men with long hair and
flowing beard seemed venerable as with age. Imag-
ination could hardly conceive of a group more gro-
tesque. But this day our work was completed and
we descended the mountain. It was late in De-
cember before our provisions were taken up. We
thought that we should be able to draw them up
by hand, but we found a little too much work in this,
so we fastened together two large hand-sleds and
took a horse. We had to shovel some snow, but
we reached the summit with our load. During the
night a terrific storm arose ; so fierce was it that
to venture out was extremely hazardous. In the
morning, however, there was no alternative, we
must go down, as we had nothing for the horse to
eat and the storm might continue for a week. The

o

wind blew so fiercely that we could hardly get
breath, besides the cold was intense. The horse
braced himself against the wind so that he walked

O

quite steady, but he would not move a step except
as he was led. The men could not keep their foot-

90 MOOSILAUKE.

ing and were several times blown nearly over the
crest of the ridge ; but we reached the woods where
it was comparatively quiet, and except ears touched
with frost we were unscathed. On the last day of
December Mr. A. F. dough and myself ascendeo
the mountain to remain for two months. The rock
of the mountain is mica schist. Everywhere there
are marks of the great denuding agencies that have
worn away the rocks. The general direction of
the crest of the summit is northeast and southwest,
and it corresponds with the strike of the rocks ; the
top of the mountain is mostly covered with drift, in
which are water-worn fragments of schist and a few
erratic boulders of other rocks. There is a space of
twenty or thirty acres on the summit comparatively
level, on which grow sedges, mosses, lichens, and
the mountain cranberry, while along the border the
spruce struggle for a scanty existence as they attain
the height of only a few inches.

THE VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT.

There is scarcely a mountain in New England
from which the view is more extensive. We can
see nearly the whole State of New Hampshire, with
its numerous mountain peaks. Eastward is Mount
Washington " in solemn repose," and on either side
its neighboring peaks ; all are of immaculate white-
ness ; and Lafayette with its deep scarred sides

ABOVE THE CLOUDS. 91

and its lines of white extending far down into the
evergreen forests; and then there is Carrigain and
Pequawket, and the mountain ridges along the east
branch of the Pemigewasset. Southward is Lake
Winnipiseogee, with its numerous isles, glittering
in the sunlight like a gem of the purest water.
The Uncanoonucs, Kearsarge, and Monadnock are
distinct in outline. "Westward is the whole State
of Vermont; and Ascutney, the most pointed of its
mountains, is conspicuous. As the eye follows up
the Green Mountain range, the different peaks are
easily distinguished, while still further to the west
the sharp peaks of the Adirondacks, now snow-clad,
seem to pierce the clear blue sky. Moosilauke is
so much higher than the immediate neighboring
peaks, that " the whole country is spread out as a
grand intrusive, raised map before the beholder."

ABOVE THE CLOUDS.

On the first day of January the sun rose clear.
We were above the clouds, and a grander spectacle
one does not often behold. The clouds seemed to
roll and surge like the billows of the ocean. They
were of every dark and of every brilliant hue ; here
they were resplendent with golden light, and there
they were of silvery brightness ; here of rosy tints,
there of sombre gray ; here of snowy whiteness,
there of murky darkness ; here gorgeous with the

92 MOOSILAUKE.

play of colors, and there the livid light flashes deep
down into the gulfs formed by the eddying mist,

while

" Far overhead

The sky, without a vapor or a stain,

Intensely blue, even deepened into purple

When nearer the horizon it received

A tincture from the mist that there dissolved

Into the viewless air. . . . The sky bent round

The awful dome of a most mighty temple

Built by Omnipotent hand for nothing less

Than infinite worship. So beautiful,

So bright, so glorious ! . . . . Such a majesty

In yon pure vault ! So many dazzling tints

In yonder waste of waves."

But above all these clouds, these flashes of light,
this darkness, rise in stately grandeur the summits
of Mount Washington, " sublime in its canopy of
snow," and Lafayette, with a few peaks of lesser alti-
tude glittering in the bright sunlight. As the sun
rises higher the picture fades away, and the whole
country is flooded with light. Did this grandeur,
this magnificence, this grand display of lights, of
shadows, and shades, these clouds, so resplendent,
so beautiful, portend a storm ? In the evening the
wind changed to the southeast and increased in
velocity.

A TERRIFIC STORM. 93

THE GREAT STORM OF THE SECOND OF JANUARY.

At daylight on the second it was snowing. This
soon changed to sleet and then to rain, and at eight
A. M. the velocity of the wind was seventy miles
per hour. At twelve, there was a perfect tempest.
Although the wind was so fearful, yet Mr. Clough
was determined to know the exact rate at which it
was blowing. By clinging to the rocks he suc-
ceeded in reaching a place where he could expose
the anemometer and not be blown away himself.
He found the velocity to be ninety-seven and a half
miles per hour; the greatest velocity, until that
time, ever recorded. When he reached the house
he was thoroughly saturated, the wind having
driven the rain through every garment, although
they were of the heaviest material, as though they
were made of the lightest fabric. During the after-
noon the rain and the gale continued with unabated
violence. The rain was driven through every crack
and crevice of the house, and the floor of our room
was flooded. So fierce was the draught of the stove
that the wind literally took away every spark of fire,
leaving only the half-charred wood in the stove, and
it was with the greatest difficulty that we succeeded
in rekindling it. During the evening the wind
seemed to increase in fury, and although the win-
dow was somewhat protected, yet nearly every glass

94 MOOSILAUKE.

that was exposed was broken by the pressure of the
gale. As the lights were broken, the fire was again
extinguished, and even my hurricane lantern was
blown out as quickly as if the flame had been
unprotected. Darkness if not terror reigned, but
calmness, with energy, are requisites for such an
occasion, and fortunately they were not wanting
now. Our necessities quickly showed us what to
do. By nailing boards across the windows and by
the use of blankets we stopped the openings the
wind had made. After nine p. M. there were occa-
sional lulls in the storm, and by twelve it had con-
siderably abated, at least enough to bring on that
depression that naturally succeeds a period of in-
tense excitement ; so we willingly yielded ourselves
to sleep, to dream of gentle zephyrs and sunny
skies.

AN OUT-LOOK.

When it was clear, there was a strong tempta-
tion, notwithstanding the cold, to be out of doors,
to watch the clouds, not only when they filled the
valleys, but flitted across the mountain and sailed
away. At first, of almost fiery redness, then changing
to gray and neutral tints, until almost black, they
seemed to gather round some distant peak. Or as
a dark band they lay between the Franconia and
White Mountains, leaving only the snow-clad sum-
mits above the dark border ; or at sunset when they

AN OUT-LOOK. 95

lay in narrow bands, or rose-tinted clusters around
the summit of Mount Washington, while elsewhere
there were those of leaden hue such as are seen only
in winter.

Often when the sky is partially overcast, through
the intervening spaces of the clouds we see that
intense blue sky which is peculiar to high altitudes.
As the azure color is due to the light reflected by
the air, the purer the air the more decided is this
azure tint. No scene more grand and beautiful
ever greeted the eye of man than when beyond
the dark band of clouds just below the summits of
the Franconia and White Mountains, those of rose
and orange tints lie along the horizon just above
the snow-capped summit of Mount Washington
and against this azure sky. From Moosilauke you
command the whole panorama of the White Moun-
tain range and you may see something of the
effect witnessed among the Alps. " As the day
dies, the last shadows pass with strange rapidity
from peak to peak. The passage is so rapid, so
sudden, as the shadows vanish from one height
and appear on the next, that it seems like the step
of some living spirit of the mountains. Then, as
the sun sinks, it sheds a brilliant glow across them,
and upon that follows the strangest effect of all, —
a sudden pallor, an ashy paleness on the mountains,
that has a ghastly, chilly look. But this is not their

96 MOOSILAUKE.

last aspect ; after the sun has vanished out of sight,
in place of the glory of his departure and the corpse-
like pallor that succeeds it, there spreads over the
mountain a faint blush that dies gradually into the
night. These changes — the glory, the death, the
soft succeeding life — really seem like something
that has a spiritual existence."

ICE COLUMNS.

Half a mile northeast of the summit is a small
lake, which is the source of the Asquamchemauke,
or Baker River. This stream flows half a mile,
when it reaches an immense gulf, where it falls
in precipitous cascades of several hundred feet.
Across the head of this gulf, where it terminates
so abruptly, the stream falls in a hundred stream-
lets. The ice columns formed by these in winter
are a grand feature in the scenery. Around an im-
mense amphitheatre, there can be seen from below,
ice in columns, in sheets, in protruding masses ; and
where it has poured over the edge of a pre-
cipitous rock, there is an ice cavern of wondrous
beauty. Here we are surrounded by ice. On the
left are columns ten, twenty, and thirty feet in
height ; before us is a narrow gorge, the sides of
which are covered with massive ice. To the right,
and almost veiled from sight by a thin film of ice,
is an ice cavern, made resplendent by the bright

A WINTER SCENE. 97

sunlight, and it is in striking contrast with the col-
umns on the left, over which fall the dark shadows
of the mountain.

Besides, to-day there is frost on every bough and
every spray of the foliage ; it resembles snow in its
crystals, not a perfect snow-flake, but only one of its
points magnified a hundred times. On the bridle-
path, about a mile from the summit, during a rain
in February, the trees, which are from ten to fif-
teen feet in height, became entirely incased in ice ;
and pendent from the branches of the firs were
icicles more than a foot in length. Then came the
snow, and for two weeks we had a winter scene,
which for extraordinary brilliancy and magnificence
can probably never be surpassed. In the sunlight
the trunk of every tree was of silvery brightness,
and every spray of the evergreen foliage had its
brilliant gems, which reflected the light in dazzling
splendor.

A GRAND DISPLAY OF CLOUDS.

On the 19th of February there were two cur-
rents of air, the upper had its lowest stratum prob-
ably two thousand feet below the summit. In the
morning the upper current was northwest, with a
velocity of fifty miles per hour. About twelve the
wind changed to the north and increased in velocity,
and at five p. M. it had a velocity of seventy miles.
7

98 MOOSILAUKE.

At the foot of the mountain there was scarcely a
perceptible breeze, yet up a thousand feet there
was a strong current from the southwest, and* the
clouds seemed to move almost as rapidly as those
from the north. On account of the velocity of the
wind, and the upward pressure of the currents be-
low, the effect was remarkable. The whole country
except the higher summits, was covered with clouds,
and these were moving at the rate, probably, of
more than sixty miles per hour, and everywhere
they were broken into scathing undulating masses,
for as they came near the mountains, in an in-
stant almost, they would be lifted more than a
thousand feet to be carried over the summits. As
far as the eye could reach, embracing thousands of
square miles, was this rolling, tumultuous mass of
clouds.

A PERILOUS DESCENT.

The last of February it was extremely cold, the
wind had blown fiercely from the north for several
days, with a velocity from sixty to seventy miles
per hour. The thermometer ranged from zero
to seventeen below. Our wood was nearly ex-
hausted, and who could tell how long the wind
would blow, or the cold continue. So we loaded a
sled and took it down on the southeast side of the
mountain, and were thus in a great measure pro-
tected from the wind. When we came on the

A PERILOUS DESCENT. 99

ridge, as long as we could keep under the firs that
grow where the ridge is low, and the footing was
secure, we were able to stand against the blast.
But should we be able to follow the ridge where
there was no protection from the wind ? The only
way to find out was to make the trial. When
we reached the highest part of the ridge the wind
swept across with irresistible fury. Clough held the
sled to keep it from blowing away. When a good
foothold could be secured, we were able to make
some progress. When not able to brace against
the wind, I was blown from the ridge, then crawling
back, would make another effort, only to be blown
away again, until finally, the sled, notwithstanding
the most strenuous efforts were made to hold it,
was blown against a projecting rock with such
force that the standards were broken, and thus it
was entirely disabled. Here we were, the wind
blowing seventy miles per hour, and the ther-
mometer at zero or below. What was to be done ?
A decision must be made at once. To remain
here only for a moment, without putting forth
severe physical efforts, we should become statues
only too lifelike. We pulled the broken sled with
its load over the side of the ridge where the wind
was not quite so furious, and Clough went back to
get a sled, which had been left two days before,
where we first came on the ridge. It was only

100 MOOSILAUKE.

after a severe struggle with Boreas, in which he
came very near being vanquished, that he was able
to secure it. To reload here, was no easy task, but
it was accomplished, and we soon succeeded in
reaching the woods, where we were protected from
the wind. It was with many regrets that we left
the mountain, but our brief stay gave us valuable
experience for future mountain observations.

PAET SECOND.

THE EXPEDITION AT WORK.
CHAPTER VI.

THE ASCENT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON IN WINTER.

the depot of Mount Washington Rail-
way, the ascent on foot, in summer, is com-
paratively easy, if a person is accustomed to
walking. Though the ties are three feet apart and
there is a rise of one foot in three, some of the way,
yet a person with muscles strong from exercise, can
walk to the very summit without sitting down to
rest. We would not, however, advise any one to
walk merely for the exercise, as they would prob-
ably get more than they expected.

But suppose it is a fine day in early winter.
The snow has already accumulated to a consider-
able depth, even on the ties, but then it is no great
hindrance. Should we, however, attempt to as-
cend a second time, we shall find that the snow
that was compressed beneath the feet has changed

102 ASCENT OF MT. WASHINGTON IN WINTER.

to ice, and the oval form gives a still less secure
footing. If the ice is thawing, and is almost ready
to slip off as we tread upon it, every one will see
that upon a trestle nearly thirty feet in height,
walking is somewhat dangerous, and to walk down
is a feat from which a most expert acrobat would
shrink. If at the depot, we take snow-shoes, we
can walk with comparative ease up to the limit of
the trees, and then the snow is so compact that they
are no longer needed, and as there are few irregular-
ities in the surface, the walking is better than in

* o

summer. Above the limit of the trees, the railway
is covered with ice of every fantastic shape, and the
frame-work of the Gulf tank is now so ornamented
that one can hardly believe that it is the rude
structure we see in summer. The Lizzie Bourne
Monument, which we have been accustomed to see
only as a rough pile of stones, is now an object of
architectural beauty, such as no sculptor can carve
from marble. The engraving represents the monu-
ment after the frost work had formed on the tablet,
so that it projected two or three feet. Immediately
above the monument, the timbers of the trestle are
completely covered with deposits of frozen mist,
extending three and four feet horizontally from the
timber on which the track is laid ; and every piece
of timber that forms the trestle is ornamented with
beautiful forms of frost-work, arranged in graceful

UZZIE BOUKNE MONUMENT.

THE ASCENT OF NOVEMBER 30. 103

curves where the wind sweeps through the trestle.
On the summit, the buildings, the piles of rocks and
stones, so rough in summer, are now completely
covered with frost, while the snow fills the spaces
between the jagged rocks. On the sides of the
buildings toward the northwest the frost has ac-
cumulated so that now it is more than a foot in
thickness. While the frost-work on the depot has
everywhere the same general appearance, the
points show exactly the direction of the wind as
it came into every nook and corner of the build-
ing. The frost on the braces and timbers that ex-
tend outward seems one triangular mass, and on
the chains it is often two or three feet in diameter.
The ascent is not always made when it is mild
and calm. A person is often deceived ; for although
pleasant at the base of the mountain, it may be very
cold, with a strong wind, on the summit. Such was
the case when the photographers came.

THE ASCENT OF NOVEMBER 30.

On the 30th of November, 1870, we started from
the White Mountain House for the summit of Mount
Washington. Our party consisted of Charles B.
Cheney, of Orford ; A. F. Clough, of Warren ;
C. F. Bracy, of Warren ; and Howard A. Kim-
ball, of Concord. Our team, a sturdy span,

104 ASCENT OF MT. WASHINGTON IN WINTER.

and our vehicle, a stout pung, we were speedily
aboard with our luggage and traps, and moving
onward with buoyant hearts, with the untrodden
snow to test the mettle of our team. November
was making its exit in what might be termed a
lovely winter day ; and the prospect of so choice
a time to make our ascent — toilsome, at best, at
this season, and very hazardous except at special
times of good weather — inspired us with enthu-
siasm, more and more increased as we approached
the final reach that stood in defiance of any aid
which could be rendered by the panting steeds
that now bore us forward. Plodding on amid in-
creasing depths of snow, the keen outlook of our
driver discovered trouble ahead ; when, calling out,
" O, how stupid not to bring an axe ! " we looked
before us to behold our way blocked with trees
which the wind had hurled directly across the road.
Falling to work as best we could, we succeeded
in breaking away limbs underneath the reclining
trunks, till we had opened a passage, through which,
after detaching horses, we dragged the pung, and
then led the team. Our advance found the snow
deeper and deeper ; yet there seemed no occasion
to indulge misgivings, for the weather was still all
we could desire, and there appeared to be sufficient
time. But at last we came to a new fence of wind-

CUTTING THROUGH. 105

falls that positively barred our progress. It was
found impossible to go on without cutting through,
and we had nothing to cut with.

We were now within about a mile and a half of
Marshfield Depot, the terminus of our convoy. Mr.
Clough volunteered to walk the rest of the way,
rally a "chopper," and return and chop us out.
This was all duly accomplished ; but it consumed
some two hours of precious time; and, with the
previous delay, made our arrival at the depot two
o'clock in the afternoon, instead of eleven or twelve
in the forenoon, as it should have been.

At Marshfield we are three miles from the sum-
mit, and, at present, all travel over this distance
must depend solely upon human muscle and energy
to achieve ; though Mr. Marsh, the president of the
railway company, says he will yet see it run at all
seasons of the year.

" Jim," the wood-choppers' cook, prepared us a
lunch ; and, after duly disposing of this, we held
"a council of war," and decided to make the ascent
at once, though there were serious misgivings on
the part of some of us in view of the near approach
of night, when, at this season, half-past two o'clock
leaves a small margin of the day, at best, for such
a task as stood before us. However, the weather
was fine, and we were tired with the promise of

106 ASCENT OF MT. WASHINGTON IN WINTER.

an adventure, amid scenery new and grand, from
which we had been unwillingly detained several
days beyond our previous designs.

THE ASCENT.

In ascending from this point, we followed the
railroad track. We were compelled to walk upon
the ties, for the snow was several feet deep. With
a sharp upward grade, in some places rising one
foot in three ; with the ties three feet apart and
loaded with ice and snow, and built on trestle-work
over gorges of some twenty-five to thirty feet in
depth, the careless, eager steps of unbaffled en-
thusiasm are soon compelled to give place to great
caution and the constant stress of nerve and muscle.
It is found impossible to make every foothold sure ;
hence there come occasional slips and bruises ; and,
unless one is robust and hardy, the ascent thus soon
becomes decidedly wearisome and even exhaustive.

The end of the first mile — carrying us up to
within one half mile of the limit of wood-growth —
found us in tolerable condition ; when a halt for
breath and observations discovered to us an ap-
proaching storm lying on the Green Mountains of
Vermont. It would undoubtedly strike us, but we
still hoped we might press on and reach the summit
first. The thought of being overtaken by a furious
storm on the wintry, shelterless cliffs of Mount

OUT IN THE STORM. 107

Washington, with the night about to enshroud us,
was fearfully impressive, and prompted us to our
best endeavors. With all the effort we could well
muster, we had only advanced a half mile more,
carrying us fairly above the wooded region to the
foot of " Jacob's Ladder," when the storm struck
us. There were suddenly wrapped around us dense
clouds of frozen vapor, driven so furiously into our
faces by the raging winds as to threaten suffocation.
The cheering repose of the elements but a moment
before had now given place to what might well be
felt as the power and hoarse rage of a thousand
furies ; and the shroud of darkness that was in a
moment thrown over us was nearly equal to that of
the moonless night. Compelled to redoubled efforts
to keep our feet and make proper advance, we
struggled with the tempest, though with such odds
against us that we were repeatedly slipping and get-
ting painful bruises. Mr. Kimball finding himself
too much exhausted to continue this struggle on the
track, we all halted in brief consultation. It was
suggested that we return to Waumbek Station, an

DO *

old building a half mile below us, and there try to
keep ourselves from freezing by brisk exercise. Mr.
Clough emphatically vetoed this as a most danger-
ous and impracticable proposition, saying that our
only hope consisted in pushing upward with all our
might.

108 ASCENT OF MT. WASHINGTON IN WINTER.

Here we became separated, three of our party
left the track, and Mr. Kimball willingly left behind
his luggage in order to continue the ascent. By
thus leaving the track we escaped liability to falls
and bruises, but found ourselves often getting buried
to our waists in snow, and forced to exert our ut-
most strength to drag ourselves out and advance.
We repeatedly called to Mr. Bracy, who had kept
on the track, as we supposed, but could get no
answer. The roar of the tempest overcame our
utmost vocal efforts ; and the cloud of frozen vapor,
that lashed us so furiously as it hugged us in its
chilling embrace, was so dense that no object could
be seen at a distance of ten paces.

Against such remorseless blasts no human being
could keep integrity of muscle and remain erect.
We could only go on together a little way and then
throw ourselves down for a few moments, to re-
cover breath and strength. We had many times
repeated this, when Mr. Kimball became so utterly
exhausted as to make it impossible to take another
step. He called to the others to leave him and
save themselves if possible. The noble and em-
phatic " Never " uttered by the manly Clough,
whose sturdy muscle was found ample to back his
will, aroused him to another effort.

The two stronger gentlemen, whose habits of life
and superior physical powers gave hope of deliver-

A HARD STRUGGLE. 109

ance for themselves, were both immovable in the
determination that our fate should be one, let that
be what it must.

The situation was one of most momentous peril,
especially as to Mr. Kimball, whose exhaustion was
now so extreme that he was wholly indifferent to
the fate that seemed to impend ; only begging that
he might be left to that sleep from whose embrace
there was felt no power of resistance. Still there
was forced a listless drag onward, mostly in the
interests of his companions and in obedience to
their potent wills. After this sort we struggled
on, a few rods at a time, falling together, between
each effort, to rest and gain new strength. At each
halt Messrs. Clough and Cheney used their best
endeavors by pounding and rubbing Mr. Kimball's
feet and limbs, and in various other ways endeav-
ored to promote circulation and prevent freezing.

The last saving device was supplied by a cord
which we chanced to have. At one end of this
was made a noose, which was placed in Mr. Kim-
ball's hand, while the other end was passed over the
shoulder of Mr. Clough who tugged along in ad-
vance, while Mr. Cheney helped at his side. Most
of the last mile was accomplished in this manner.

With the wind at seventy miles per hour, and the
thermometer down to 7°, as was found after arriv-
ing at the Observatory, we came at length to

110 ASCENT OF MT. WASHINGTON IN WINTER.

" Lizzie Bourne's Monument," only thirty rods
from the Observatory. One of our party shouted
an exultant hurrah at the glad sight of this rude
pile which was erected to commemorate the sad
fate of one who was overtaken hy the darkness and
bewildering fogs and chills of a rude October night.
u Then," in the words of the eloquent Starr King,
" was the time to feel the meaning of that pile of
stones, which tells where Miss Bourne, overtaken by
night and fog and exhausted by cold, breathed out
her life into the bleak cloud."

It took more than a half hour's time to make this
last thirty rods. Even the stronger ones had be-
come wearied by their unusual exertions, and had
this not been the case, their progress would have
been slow, for it was found absolutely impossible to
force on the one who had now become unable to
regard his own peril, more than a few feet at a
time. He would then sink down into a deep sleep,
while the others would employ the time in chafing
his hands and feet, and after a few moments man-
age to arouse him and make another struggle on-
ward.1

1 So utterly exhausted was our friend that his reason tottered, and
he speculated as to the methods by which his dead body should be
carried down to his friends, and see*med to be anxious to make the
necessary arrangements beforehand ; and the prospect of another mon-
ument was certainly very promising. This idea also furnished him
with words, as he insisted that his untimely end would attract many

THE SUMMIT REACHED. Ill

From Lizzie Bourne's Monument to the summit
Mr. Kimball was mostly insensible to passing events,
and only awoke to clear consciousness, as from a
dream, to find himself in bed in a comfortable room
in the Observatory building, safe from the dreadful
tempest, and owing his life to the unyielding devo-
tion of these brave men who scorned to save them-
selves at the expense of a comrade left to perish.

We were very glad to find on our arrival that
Mr. Bracy, who had got separated from us during
our earlier struggles, had got in about seven o'clock ;
our own arrival being at half past seven ; he having
kept on the track.

Thus at least three hours of this ascent were
made amid the darkness of a moonless night, in
the howling tempest, the horrors of which will be
more readily appreciated when it is remembered
that a wind of forty-five miles per hour blew
down buildings and uprooted trees in New York
city. Twenty-five miles added, make a most fear-
ful hurricane. We were abundantly supplied with
nourishment on our ascent, chiefly in the form of
a strong decoction of tea, of which we occasionally
partook. This is found to be by far the most

visitors to the lonely spot, and be the means of enriching the hotel
and the railroad the following summer. Also when being carried
through the entrance to the Observatory, he thought himself falling
down some steep place, and begged the others to save him. C. H. H.

112 ASCENT OF MT. WASHINGTON IN WINTER.

potent and effective stimulant that can be used in
such conditions of extreme exposure.

Mr. Bracy, too, had a narrow escape. Losing his
foothold on the track, he at one time fell through,
into a gorge beneath the trestle-work. Exhausted,
bruised, and discouraged, he crawled beneath the
ruins of the old " Gulf House," which were found
to be at hand, thinking he would try to weather
the storm there ; but finding himself, in spite of
every effort, getting numb and dozy, he rallied to a
new struggle, and thus saved himself.

Mr. Huntington, aroused by the arrival of Mr.
Bracy, sallied out with a lantern in search of us, but
found his best exertions of little avail, the storm be-
ing so fierce and thick he could neither make him-
self seen nor heard beyond a few paces ; and they
were regarding us as probably lost, though preparing
for another effort in our behalf, when we arrived.

A sleepless night gave place, at length, to a day
thick and stormy. And for several days the clouds
gathered densely around us and the storm con-
tinued its rage ; during which we were recovering
from " the wear and tear " of our adventures and
recruiting for the work in store for us.

THE ASCENT OF FEBRUARY EIGHTH.

An ascent without great difficulty was made on
the 8th of February, by Mr. Luther L. Holden, of

THE FIRST NEWSPAPER MEN. 113

the " Boston Daily Journal," and Mr. P. B. Cogs-
well, of the " Concord Daily Monitor." As they
were the first newspaper men ever upon the sum-
mit of Mount Washington, in mid winter, an ac-
count of their tour, will not fail to be interesting : —

" Mr. Huntington informed us that it was magnificent
weather that morning at the summit, and that we could
not have selected, apparently, a better day for the trip.
He knew better than to promise us good weather all the
Way through, however, for the changes about the moun-
tains, and especially at the summit, are sometimes very
sudden and unexpected. In a few minutes our prepara-
tions for the upward journey were completed, for they
comprised nothing more than the buckling on of knap-
sacks, the putting on of buffalo overshoes and the grasp-
ing of Alpen-stocks. The latter is an almost indispen-
sable assistant in mountain climbing in the winter. We
had brought snow-shoes for use through the woods if
necessary, but we found they could as well be left be-
hind.' As for overcoats, we strapped them upon our
knapsacks or disposed of them as best we could, for the
exertion of the walk was likely to keep us warm enough
until we got near the top, and so it certainly proved.
Our party, four in number, left the base of the moun-
tain at a quarter past ten o'clock. No travellers ever
had safer, surer, more experienced, or more intelligent
guides than we two newspaper men could boast of.
We had received ample directions in regard to the as-
cent in case we undertook it alone, but with two such
3

114 ASCENT OF MT. WASHINGTON IN WINTER.

able guides as Mr. Huntington and Mr. Clough, we
certainly could not go amiss. Here let me add that no
person ought attempt the ascent of Mount Washington
in winter unless he is blessed with more than common
physical strength and hardihood, for although under
favorable circumstances and with good weather (which
means the absence of adverse winds more than anything
else), the trip may be accomplished safely enough, and,
in truth, with greater ease than in summer, yet the sud-
den and severe changes liable to occur are in themselves
dangerous, while physical exhaustion in any case might
lead to serious results. There have been two instances,
at least, the present season, where persons have become
so exhausted in climbing the mountain that they could
not have proceeded without aid from others, while death
would have ensued had they been abandoned. On one
occasion a young man became so fatigued and so be-
numbed with cold, that his companions were compelled
to carry him a considerable part of the way. The sad
deaths of poor Lizzie Bourne and Benjamin Chandler,
one of whom perished on the mountain side in Septem-
ber, 1855, and the other in August, 1856, and the terri-
ble adventure of Dr. Benjamin L. Ball, who narrowly
escaped death from exposure in October, 1855, are sol-
emn reminders of the dangers of mountain climbing.

" As we were sure to occupy several hours in the as-
cent, we took a light lunch to refresh us on the way, and
proper restoratives, the chief of which was a plentiful
supply of the beverage " that cheers but not inebriates "
— cold tea. A flask of strong tea is more efficacious

UPWARD. 115

than a flask of brandy in reviving and refreshing ex-
hausted nature upon a mountain tramp, although it is
•well enough to take along the latter for emergencies.
For a little way up the mountain we took a winding
path through which timber is hauled, but soon struck
the railway, alongside or upon which we kept the re-
mainder of the distance. The snow in the woods was
from two to three feet in depth, and the crust was suffi-
ciently hard to bear our weight, except in places where
we might sink through at the side of a log or in the
bushes. In most places we could easily walk over the
low bushes, and also upon getting above the line of tall
trees it was found an easy matter to travel over the belt
of stunted, scrubby trees, which surrounds the mountain
and marks the limit of arborescent growth. These trees
are so thick that in summer they form impenetrable bar-
riers, compelling the pedestrian to keep to the railway
track, or to the old Fabyan bridle-path. Farther on,
the rocks are for the most part covered with snow, the
crevices being filled so completely that there are few
irregularities in the surface. In short, the rough places
are made smooth, — in not a few instances a trifle too
smooth, — for the way is, at some points, very steep. In
a few places the snow lies drifted over the railway, but
along the line of high trestle work at Jacob's Ladder,
and for the most part above, the snow had blown from
the top, so that easy locomotion was found for some of
us over the sleepers. Before we had reached the
"Waumbek Junction, a slight snow squall struck us,
and we could see that there was a storm in the neigh-

116 ASCENT OF MT. WASHINGTON IN WINTER.

borhood of the Notch. This, however, was no impedi-
ment to our onward "progress. As we had occasion to
rest quite frequently, we had ample opportunity to stop
and admire the glorious panorama which was gradually
unfolded behind us. After getting above Jacob's Ladder
we found that the wind, which was blowing from the
south or southwest, was quite strong, and by the time
we reached the Great Gulf we were in the midst of a
furious snow-storm. As we entered the snow cloud
the country below was shut out from our view, and we
could not see a great distance in any direction, although
the cloud was not very dense. The frost work on the
Lizzie Bourne monument, which had been very beauti-
ful at times, had for the most part disappeared in the re-
cent thaws and furious wind-storms."

" We arrived at the summit at 2.45 p. M., having occu-
pied four and a half hours in the ascent. By ' taking it
easy ' en route, we reached the end of our journey very
slightly fatigued. Sergeant Smith and Mr. Nelson,
Mr. Huntington's companions in exile, gave us a warm
welcome, and we were soon snugly ensconced under the
depot roof. Upon our arrival it was ascertained that
the wind was blowing at the rate of forty-five miles an
hour, while the thermometer indicated 13° above zero."

Since we began our preparations for the winter,
over fifty persons, including members of the party,
have been on the mountain, and the number of as-
cents made amount to more than a hundred, seven-
teen having been made by myself, and not a single

NO SERIOUS ACCIDENTS.

117

accident that has proved serious has happened to
any one, although before we began to go up and
down, there was probably scarcely one person in a
hundred but that would have considered a trip to
the summit of Mount Washington in mid-winter,
even in the most favorable weather, a perilous
undertaking.

CHAPTER VII.

A LOOK NORTHWARD, AND EASTWARD.

F all the valleys that radiate from this group
of mountains, that of Israel's River is the
broadest. By following a line a little west
of north we look directly down upon this valley
with its broad, open fields, now covered with a
white mantle of snow. Where a point of woods
penetrates this open area, it looks like a headland
jutting into a frozen lake ; but the deception is not
perfect, for we can see a road running through the
entire length of this open space, and it crosses
some of these points ; besides, houses are distinctly
visible along the entire length of the valley. A
little to the left of this valley, and westward, are
the hills of Whitefield, and beyond is Dalton Moun-
tain, from which there is such a fine view of the
whole White Mountain range. In Lancaster we
see Mount Prospect and Mount Pleasant ; along the
base of these is a line of snow, which is now brill-
iant from reflected light. Westward still, and
stretching northward along the Connecticut, are the

TOWARDS QUEBEC. 119

Lunenburg Hills, so famous as a point from which to
view the mountains ; and beyond, so far away are
the hills, when there is the least haze in the atmos-
phere we can hardly distinguish their outline, and
the snow which covers them " wells into the atmos-
phere, as it were, and dies away in the heavens like
the indistinct outline of a bright but partially re-
membered dream."

TOWARDS PERCY PEAKS AND NORTHWARD TO QUE-
BEC PROVINCE.

North of Jefferson is the Pilot Range, with its
wooded summits. Looking down upon it, every
ridge is sharply defined ; and there are Percy Peaks,
now so purely white, and almost as distinct as they
appear from the road along the upper Ammonoo-
suc ; and beyond are the mountains in Stratford ;
that sharp point rising above the other peaks is
Sugarloaf Mountain. But we can look far, far be-
yond, for we can see Owl's Head in Canada ; and
although so far away its outline is sharply defined
as it stands solitary and alone.

A LOOK INTO THE GREAT GULF.

Looking almost directly north, we look down
into the Great Gulf between Mount Washington
and Mount Adams. We cannot see far down, as
we stand here; suppose we walk down as far as

120 A LOOK NORTHWARD AND EASTWARD.

the Gulf House, and then just a step will bring
us to the very border of this immense gulf. Just
above the point where we stand, the whole side
of the mountain is one sheet of ice, and there is
some where we stand, so we have to be very
cautious in our movements, for we are upon the
very brink of a precipice hundreds of feet in
height. The snow which has blown over into the
gulf covers now in part the ragged, jutting rocks
that form the abrupt precipice at the head of this
great chasm, yet still enough protrude to give to it
a picturesque grandeur, especially when the rays of
the sun fall aslant its rugged slope. The peaks of
Jefferson and Adams seem mountains of them-
selves, even above the point where we stand, for
they are between two and three hundred feet higher
than the gap south of Mount Clay. Adding to
this the depths below, and remembering that Mount
Washington is nearly five hundred feet higher than
Mount Adams, and you have some conception of the
awful grandeur of the scene, and you will no longer
wonder why we run some risk by standing here.
The depths below with their dark shadows, and the
heights above gleaming in the bright sunlight, are
enchantment enough to draw one to the very verge
of these precipitous heights. If in summer it is
one of the grandest spectacles Mount Washington
affords, words certainly fail to give an adequate

MOUNTAINS AND LAKES. 121

description of it in winter, whether we see it when
the morning sun shines into it from the east, — at
noon, when the sun scarcely reaches its lowest
depths, — or late in the afternoon when far down it
seems almost night, although the mountain-peaks
are all aglow with light, — or watch the clouds as
they pour over into it from the west.

UP THE ANDROSCOGGIN AND MAGALLOWAY.

Returning to the summit of Mount Washington,
we follow up the valley of the Androscoggin, and
look down upon the breadth of sombre forests stretch-
ing northward towards Lake Umbagog, which is
now so distinct, though thirty or forty miles away.
West of Umbagog is Mount Dustan, and north is the
rounded summit of Escahos, with its breadth of
snow. Beyond is the wilderness along the Magal-
loway ; and that mountain so precipitous on- its
eastern slope is Mount Carmel, on the line between
New Hampshire and Maine ; and northward still is
the blue outline of the mountains in Quebec Prov-
ince. To the east of the line just indicated we
look down the Peabody River to the valley of the
Androscoggin, and when we feel as though we were
out of the world we take our glass and watch the
trains on the Grand Trunk Railway. Beyond
Gorham and Shelburne we see the hills and moun-
tains of Maine, and conspicuous among them is
Katahdin, which stands *' regal and alone."

122 A LOOK NORTHWARD AND EASTWARD.
EASTWARD.

The guide books tell you that from the summit
of Mount Washington, not only the lakes in Maine,
but that also the ocean can be seen. As most per-
sons who visit the mountain are here only for a
short time, and then at mid-day in summer, and as
they look through the hazy atmosphere they con-
clude that what they say is a myth, and that it is
told to allure people here ; but suppose you go out
with me, and we will take a look eastward to-day ;
a chill may run through you at the thought of
standing out in an atmosphere where the thermom-
eter is at zero ; but we can find a place by the side
of the building where we are protected from the
wind, and as you look you will forget that it is cold.
In some respects the view is the most remarkable
outlook from the summit of Mount Washington ;
in every other direction in the distance lofty moun-
tains greet the eye ; in this, except the Carter Range
looking a little south of east, the broad expanse that
stretches out before you is comparatively level ; the
first time we looked in this direction through the
rifts in the clouds, as a storm was clearing away on
one of those days in late autumn, when the air has
a remarkable transparency, we could hardly believe
that what we saw was something real ; it seemed
rather like a picture conceived by a vivid imagina-

OCEANWARD. 123

tion, excited perchance by this pure and rarefied
atmosphere ; but the scene must be real, for there
is the Carter Range, now apparently so near that
we can forgive Leavitt for representing old Abel
Crawford in the act of shooting a bear, which is at
least a mile away. To-day we can see not only
the trees that grow upon its western slope, but their
very branches. Beyond the Carter Range are the
numerous lakes in Maine, and we can see distinctly
the valleys, hills, and mountain ridges, as they
stretch onward seventy, eighty, and ninety miles.
That bright line extending so far along the coast is
the ocean ; but we can rarely see it with the unaided
eye, except when the waters reflect the sunlight;
and then, with Tolles' telescope, having an object-
glass of one inch and a focal length of four inches, we
can see not only vessels as they sail along the coast,
but can distinguish their rig. We have however
seen the ocean once or twice on a moonlight night.
These vast stretches of vision, transferred to the
mind, are a "mute material warning against all
moral narrowness and bigotry. Liberty and law,
magnanimity and humility, inflexible sincerity and
inexhaustible bounty, are their lessons."

OFF AN HOUR TO TUCKERMAN's RAVINE.

From the point where we stand we can look
down into the Pinkham Notch. The point where we

124 A LOOK NORTHWARD AND EASTWARD.

see the road is nearly five thousand feet below us,
and we see also the immense gorge of Tuckerman's
Ravine ; but we cannot see far .into its depths, so we
will walk down to its very border, for we are sure
of being repaid for all our toil. We will go to the
point of rocks on the north side, a mile below the
head of the ravine ; we have stood here before ;
then there was only one bright spot of snow, and
above it the thousand streams glittered in the
bright sunlight ; but now winter reigns supreme.
The whiteness along the bottom of the ravine is
relieved by the tree-tops, protruding above the
snow, besides the jutting rocks and crags are brown
and bare, and the shadows fall over the cliffs oppo-
site. But there is a gleam of light from the Thou-
sand Streams ; for where they have poured over the
head of the ravine they are fixed in ice columns of
gigantic proportions, and they are of wondrous
beauty ; they extend almost entirely across the
ravine, and we can hardly believe that they have
been formed from a few trickling streams, for one
might suppose that a mighty cataract had there
been suddenly congealed. Later in the season we
shall find that the snow extends almost up to the
point where the streams first leap over the precipi-
tous rocks. We have hardly time to-day to look
down on Hermit Lake, only a white spot now
among the trees, or to follow the valley below ; and

A GRAND PANORAMA. 125

much less to walk down so that we can see the
path the avalanche has made ; for there was at some
time not very remote an avalanche just north of the
ravine, which bent or broke off the trees along a
path many rods in width. We should like to walk
north along this plateau, and to look into the deep
ravines along its border, but we must return to the

O 7

summit. Here half way up we will sit down and
rest. As we view the grandeur of the scene, we
almost forget our weariness. Just there, fashioned
in beautiful symmetry, is Pequawket, now a snowy
cone, tinged with opalescent light. Beyond, in
Maine, is Mount Pleasant, with its triangular area
of mountains ; and there is Sebago Lake, and be-
yond the harbor of Portland, and the point of land
running out into the sea on which stands Fort
Preble. This grand panorama need only once be
seen to remain ever after " a new and glorious fur-
niture of the mind."

CHAPTER VIII.

A LOOK SOUTHWAED AND WESTWARD.

PERSON who has not been accustomed to
mountain heights might suppose that when
it is clear we can see as well in one direc-
tion as another. But to-day it may be remarkably
clear in the north, and yet quite hazy in the south ;
or clear in the west, and yet in the east every-
thing may be indistinct. So it may be many
days before the best views, embracing the whole
horizon, can be obtained. It is very rare that the
atmosphere is as clear southward as in other direc-
tions, especially in the distance ; but sometimes
within a range of sixty miles every lake and moun-
tain is remarkably distinct, and the picturesque
beauty of the scene compensates for distance.
Look down the valley of Ellis River, its wooded
sides slope almost down to the stream. Below is
the valley of the Saco, with its broad intervales, and
there is Conway, guarded by noble mountains. To
the west is Mote Mountain, with its sweeping out-
line, and Chocorua with its sharp, snowy peaks sur-

WINNIPISEOGEE. 127

rounded by forests of fir. When at evening it
glows with light rose tints, crimson and gold, it has
a beauty peculiar to itself, and with eager eyes we
watch the lingering light until it fades into the
night.

TOWARDS LAKE WINNIPISEOGEE.

But for another day there is still reserved a vis-
ion of beauty that cannot fail to fascinate, even
those who are insensible to the ordinary charms of
nature. It is the view embracing Lake Winnipis-
eogee and its immediate surroundings. Now that
the lake is covered with ice, how it gleams in the
bright sunlight ; how distinct its islands and jutting
headlands ; and then the light on the hills, so rich
in purple tints. The whole scene is of such minute-
ness, yet so vast, that we stand in wonder, attracted
as though by some great enchantment.

" Ah ! that such beauty, varying in the light
Of living nature, cannot be portrayed
By words, nor by the pencil's silent skill ;
But it is the property of Him alone
Who hath beheld it"

Southward still is Mount Belknap with its double
peak ; and Copple Crown is distinct, but beyond the
haze gives only dim outlines. So long has our at-
tention been directed southward, we had almost for-
gotten that we are standing on the summit of Mount

128 A LOOK SOUTHWARD AND WESTWARD.

Washington, and that we are isolated from the
world below on which we have been looking so
intently.

WESTWARD DOWN THE VALLEY OF THE
AMMONOOSUC.

One who has viewed the grand panorama that is
spread out before the beholder who stands on the
summit of Mount Washington, only through the
haze of a summer's day, can hardly imagine the
grandeur of the scene as it appears on a clear day
in mid winter. Would you not like to see it ?
Then go with me, for to-day it is so mild and pleas-
ant that we cannot stay within doors. The sun
shines brightly; above, the sky is intensely blue,
and in the zenith it deepens even into purple.
Such a sky is seen only at high altitude, and there
only when the atmosphere is free from all impuri-
ties. We will stand upon the highest point of the
mountain, — no, this will not do, 'we cannot see
westward. On the Tip -top House the view is
better, but the roof is steep. Can we walk up?
Certainly, for the frost adheres to the roof, so we
have a secure footing. Now we can go no higher ;
but this is all we could wish. To-day, so clear and
transparent is the atmosphere, that space seems half
annihilated. Instead of one vast mantle of white,
as we might have expected, the variety of colors is

THE FORESTS. 129

greater even than in summer ; and the shadows, —
could any artist desire anything more grand ? Be-
fore us is the valley of the Ammonoosuc, with its
gray forests of deciduous trees, and we can follow
the line which runs along the range that ends in
Mount Deception, which separates this forest from
that of the evergreen which crowns the summit of
the ridge. There in the valley is a white spot, it is
the Twin River Farm ; and below is another, that
is the intervale, where stood the Fabyan House.

LAFAYETTE, WITH ITS RIDGES AND NEIGHBORING
PEAKS.

But look beyond ; how sharp in outline is each
ridge, as the sun strikes upon them and throws the
shadows westward ; but above all these ridges rises
Lafayette, grand in its canopy of snow ; but now
its sterner features are softened by a glow of rose-
tinted, amber light. South rises a peak symmetri-
cal in outline, its pointed summit so pure, that for
anything to touch it, except those beautiful rays of
sunlight, would destroy the charm witji which it is
now invested. Has it a name ? Certainly ; they
call it Haystack. What a name for a mountain of
such grand and noble proportions ! How poetical !
Can the name be found in any book on rhythm ?
If Indian names are exhausted, let us at least have
a respectable English name for peaks that are so

9

130 A LOOK SOUTHWARD AND WESTWARD.

prominent. Beyond, and a little to the south, is
Moosilauke. Here we have, thanks to Mr. Will-
iam Little of Manchester, an Indian name sub-
stituted for a most inappropriate English name
Moosehillock ; for hillock is a small hill; and moose
are not apt to climb bare summits. A mountain
nearly five thousand feet high deserves something
better than to be called a small hill. " Broad-
shouldered " it is, its crest having been rounded by
the glaciers that came from the north ; and grand is
the panorama seen from its summit. Westward, in
Vermont, is the whole line of the Green Mountains,
Camel's Hump and the long line of Mount Mans-
field being white with snow.

TOWARDS THE NOTCH.

Looking a little south of the line above indicated,
we follow the range that runs towards the Notch.
How the peaks glitter in the bright sunlight ; for
the light snow has all blown over into the ravines,
and the Notch seems so near that we feel almost
like taking a walk to view there the winter scene.
Beyond is Mount Willey, and a ridge from thence
stretches southward to Carragain, a noble mountain,
with precipitous cliffs and deep gorges on either
side, and so far from the haunts of men that its
summit is rarely pressed by human footsteps, and
grand on account of its very solitude. To the west

THE SHADOWS. 131

is the valley of the east branch of the Pemigewas-
set ; we can see to-day the ridges on the south, that
reach down to the stream itself, each one almost
as sharp and distinct in outline as if we were at
their very base. Southward from Carrigain, peak
follows peak until the range ends in a point south
of Osceola. To follow round the whole horizon
and study the scene that is spread out before us
would take several days. One feature more of the
scene that is particularly striking we will notice
here, namely, the shadows as they fall aslant the
sides of the mountains or across the deep valleys.
On account of the snow and the transparency of
the atmosphere, not to say anything of the length-
ened shadows of winter, they are much more notice-
able than in summer. On Monroe, Franklin, and
Pleasant, there is the most beautiful rose- tint, just
over the border ; the dark shadows of the mountains
fall on the snow where the light streams through
the deep ravines, and, as the sun climbs higher, we
watch the shadows until the sunlight flashes down
the sides of the mountains.

CHAPTER IX.

PHOTOGRAPHING UPON MOUNT WASHINGTON.

S photography has got to be so common in
every-day life, and so necessary to the full
success of every expedition of importance,
its omission on the present occasion would have
been a great oversight, and have left the prac-
tical results of the expedition but half complete.
It is the province of the photographer to bring
to the eyes of the public that which is not of a
readily accessible, character; thus to give those
who cannot visit such places a chance to see won-
ders and beauties, while they enjoy the comforts of
home, enduring none of the perils, dangers, or hard-
ships, which are necessary to get at the real.

Though the pictures can convey to the mind but
a small portion of the real grandeur of the scenes
as beheld by the eye, they nevertheless have a
fascinating beauty that charms and gives a sense
of sublimity to the lover of nature, in her varied
forms.

The photographer who makes nature his study,

FIRST VIEW OF FROST WORK. 133

with a view to reproduce her various charms, soon
becomes an enthusiast, and is ready to brave almost
any hardship or danger in order to secure the like-
ness of a gem or " bit." A musical waterfall, or
thundering cataract, a peaceful vale where the flocks
graze in quiet security, the wild mountain crag
where the eagle screams its shrill notes, a tropical
bower where perpetual summer brings forth rich
and continuous verdure, and the barren, desolate
mountain peaks of snow and frost towering far
above the clouds ; they will all afford some subject
for the Knight of the Camera to " bang away at,"
and from which to bear off a trophy that shall de-
light " the millions," and fittingly reward the enthu-
siam of the true artist, and also line his pocket
with " greenbacks."

October of 1864 was the first time I ever beheld
the beauty of the frost-work upon the mountains.
It was on the occasion of a visit to Moosilauke ;
and my attempts to photograph it were frustrated
by the storm, as I was not prepared for any lengthy
stay or proper effort. I visited it again the next
year, but failed from the same cause ; and not until
the year of 1869, when Mr. Huntington and myself
made arrangements to spend the winter up amongst
storms and clouds, did I meet with anything like
success.

When we first proposed to make that mountain

134 PHOTOGRAPHING UPON MT. WASHINGTON-

our home for the winter, it had become late in the
season, and the mountains were already covered
with snow. Provisions and fuel had to be got up,
which was no easy task, where but few had any
sympathy for us, and fewer still were willing to
help, while a larger share were ready to raise all
sorts of " bugbears " not calculated to inspire us
with confidence in anything like success. The idea
of photographing under such adverse circumstances
wanted something of the proper stimulus ; but still
I determined to try it, believing the more obstacles
overcome the greater the satisfaction, so long as it
proposed only a bloodless offering.

When so many of the craft fail, with every con-
venience at hand, and with every requisite for pro-
ducing good work, it should not be expected that
uniform success could be met with where every
convenience is wanting, in the matter of materials,
and where nature has opposed serious obstacles ;
but, with a full appreciation of the troubles to be
met and overcome, I was determined to try until
my chemicals or myself froze up ; so with my traps
lashed on a hand-sled, we toiled up the mountain
of 5,000 feet, walking on snow-shoes. It was a
hard task, but was accomplished in good time ; and
though my success was not always complete, it
served to show what might be done with proper
will and perseverance, even in extremities.

ANTICIPATIONS. 135

This experience was of value, and many of the
views taken were of interest ; and I may say that
some of them have never been surpassed for
beauty.

When on a clear day we could see the glistening
summit of Mount Washington, we often asked our-
selves the question, " Shall we next winter occupy
the top of that mountain ? " And I think that it
was as fully settled in our minds then as at any
time after, if the necessary funds could be raised.
In this expedition we paid our own expenses, ex-
cepting what a few of the citizens of the town of
Warren gave by assisting us to get up wood, and
one other man who gave some money. So we had
most of the glory to ourselves.

When it was determined to make the effort to
occupy Mount Washington, I felt that it was to be
a hazardous job ; but was ready and willing to do
the best I could, and made all necessary prepara-
tions; had all chemicals, apparatus, etc., that could
be forwarded, packed and sent up by the railroad ;
yet there were many things that could not be safely
sent up in that way, as there was to be some lapse
of time between the arrival of them and the time
of the commencement of the occupation. As it is
winter weather there in October, many things that
would spoil must be taken up at the time of the
final ascent.

136 PHOTOGRAPHING UPON MT. WASHINGTON.

In the interim Mr. Kimball, of Concord, N. H.,
proposed to the Head of the expedition, to go as
photographer, not knowing that I was to occupy
that place. He was referred to me, when we soon
made satisfactory arrangements to have him ac-
company me ; and from his Diary kept while on
the mountain, a part of which will complete this
chapter, will be found some of the more minute
details of our work while there.

We made the ascent on the afternoon of No-
vember 80 ; a time that will not be soon forgot-
ten by the parties. Mr. Kimball's narrow escape
from death on that night, will ever be a thrill-
ing epoch in his life, as well as in that of some
friends who accompanied us. Shut in the folds of
a dense cloud, the wind sweeping across the barren
frozen waste at a hurricane speed, and the darkness
of night gathering fast around us while we were a
long way from the top, and our friend sinking down
exhausted, begging to have us leave him and save
ourselves, and when told it was sure death, firmly
accepting what he deemed inevitable, all made it
a time that would try the nerves of the most reso-
lute ; but to leave him was as remote from our
thoughts as anything could be ; so we abandoned
everything to save him ; and, by taking him al-
most by main force, we could get him up a few
steps at a time, when we were obliged to let him

THE FIRST SUNRISE. 137

rest, and we ourselves were glad to take a re-
spite. By two hours hard and unremitting toil, we
got to the top, and brought our man in safety ;
though he says he has no distinct recollection of
the last part of the journey.

He was not frozen, but completely exhausted.
We were all pretty well exhausted, but soon re-
covered. With the wind blowing at the rate of

o

seventy miles an hour, and the thermometer nearly
at zero, there can be but a small amount of pleasure
in climbing a mountain at night in a storm cloud.
There is truly nothing but extreme hardship and
hazard.

Herewith is a part of Mr. Kimball's Diary, kept
while on the mountain ; and as it was written at the
time when the events were fresh in the mind, it will
be more interesting than anything I can write re-
garding our work. A. F. CLOUGH.

MONDAY, DECEMBER 5, 1871.

FIRST DAY'S WORK AT PHOTOGRAPHING ON MOUNT
WASHINGTON.

Mr. Huntington called us early this morning to
see the sun rise out of the ocean. It was a grand

O

sight, not soon to be forgotten. It was several
minutes after he came in sight before he was, as it
seemed, out of the ocean, and he looked much larger
to me than ever before, and did not dazzle the eyes

138 PHOTOGRAPHING UPON MT. WASHINGTON.

as he usually does. We concluded to avail our-
selves of the fair weather, and commence our series
of views at once ; so we regulated chemicals and
instruments as soon as possible, and commenced
operations immediately. After breakfast, Mr.
Huntington started down the mountain on his way
to Littleton, for the purpose of repairing the tele-
graph wire, which we hoped soon to have in work-
ing order. An extract from my Diary reads : " The
day is beautiful, we are perfectly comfortable out-
side without overcoats, and on the east side of the
Observatory the frost is thawing quite rapidly.
Thermometer 22°."

We have succeeded in making some very good
views, but not as large a variety as we intend to
have before we complete our winter's work. Our
first was looking east, with the Glen stable in the
foreground. It is a pretty cloud view, showing as
it does, grand masses of silvery, cumulus clouds,
as they pour down over mounts Monroe and
Franklin, over Tuckerman's Ravine, and down
through the Glen. Another gives a fine view of
the Carter Range of mountains, and in the fore-
ground the Glen and Alpine stables, two buildings
a few rods below the summit of the mountain, which
are now covered with beautiful frost-work several
feet thick, as is everything on the top of the moun-.
tain. We have also made three negatives of clouds,

CLOUDS. 139

which were at least half a mile below us. They
resemble the waves on the ocean, only the cloud
waves are in some places twenty or thirty miles
long. They pass over a range of mountains, and
take a long sweep across the valleys, and then rise
over the mountains on the opposite side ; and, as a
general thing, after passing over and coming down
on the other side, they break up in small clusters,
resembling, on a grand scale, the surf from breaking
waves. We have made some photographs of this,
but they give only a limited idea of the grandeur
of the captivating view thus spread out beneath us.
All these clouds move rapidly from the southwest,
probably at a velocity of forty miles an hour, while
on this summit it blows generally from the north-
west. We have made a view which shows a small
portion of a remarkable cloud effect, or phenome-
non. It was like a parallel belt on the distant hor-
izon, whose circuit must have been more than a
thousand miles. It resembled the tire to an im-
mense cart-wheel (we occupying the place for the
hub), which was beyond, and encircled all the lakes,
mountains, etc. It was even beyond Mount Katah-
din. At the south its upper edge was parallel
with the point farthest north. At noon it appears
to be approaching us as a centre, and as it nears us
it breaks up in magnificent great thunder heads,
minus the thunder. All this time our view is be-

140 PHOTOGRAPHING UPON MT. WASHINGTON.

coming more limited. Now we look over to Mount
Washington's younger brother, Mount Adams, cov-
ered with clouds, with the exception of the top,
which looms up like a mighty Titan, scorning to
have a cloud-veil thrown so soon over his majestic
head. The sun responds to the royal endeavor, and
sends a shower of his warm beams down on the
bleak summit, standing up alone to our view, a bright
little island white with snow, as pure as the purest
velvet, in a rough silvery ocean of clouds. All
this time it was snowing below, but we knew noth-
ing of it until to-night. Our view of the surround-
ing mountains lasts only a short time longer, for
we see to the west thick, heavy clouds, marching
upon us, and by four o'clock we become densely
shrouded. We cannot see the Tip-top House from
the observatory, not many feet distant.

Sergeant Smith made his connections with bat-
teries and cables, and we hope soon to be in com-
munication with the world below.

Last night we discovered a new boarder, in the
form of a sable. He must like well, for we make
liberal waste for his sake. I suppose in passing
over the mountain he scented our larder, and was
attracted by the prospect of a nice dinner. We
hope to see more of the sly little fellow. We shall
feed him like a prince. I hope he won't kill our
mice, for it is pleasant to know there is animal life

THRO WN DO WN BY WIND. 141

near us, if nothing more than a poor little " var-
rnint " of a mouse.

While making a negative to-day, a crow flew
past me. He seemed in haste, and so did not stop
to sit for his picture, which I would gladly have
made.

Thursday^ December 29, 1870. This morning
I went out to see if we could make some negatives
during the day. I had barely got out, when the
wind swept me, with resistless force, away from our
entrance or door, and I only saved myself from the
rude handling and probable bruising, by catching
the chain which passed over the building. It
hurled me with such power as to swing me in to-
ward the depot into a snow drift, which was much
better than to have been swept upon the rocks cov-
ered with the frost feathers. How was I to face
such a wind and get back ? I tried several times,
each time carried back by the force of the wind, the
velocity of which, at times, must have been as high
as seventy miles an hour, but not steadily thus.
There were lulls when it did not reach more than
forty miles an hour, and in one of these I crawled
back on "all fours," and got into the Observatory,
determined to stay there as long as the wind blew
so furiously ; and we have decided, without much
question, that it will be impossible to make a photo-
graph to-day.

142 PHOTOGRAPHING UPOtf MT. WASHINGTON.

The day is clear and cold. To look out of the
window it seems very inviting, but it is like the ap-
ples of Sodom, fair to look upon but " bad to take."
The wind has been increasing all day. At seven
A. M., observations: velocity of wind forty-six miles
an hour; two p. M., fifty-seven miles; four P. M.,
seventy-two miles ; at seven p. M., forty-six miles,
and at nine p. M., nearly calm. A great change in
fourteen hours, especially in the last two hours.
Barometer has fallen rapidly all day.

Friday, December 30, 1870. The morning is
calm, clear, and beautiful. It is what we have
waited a month for. We commenced work on our
chemicals at daylight, warming and filtering our
baths, suitably tempering developer, etc., and heat-
ing all our instruments, to drive the moisture from
them ; putting our dark room in order, and melting
ice for water to use in washing negatives. We
commenced making negatives at sunrise. Experi-
enced great difficulty, in exposing the sensitized
plate, to avoid the destruction of the film by freez-
ing. We carried the plate in a warm woollen
blanket, but this could only serve in carrying. As
soon as the plate was put in the camera from the
warm blanket, it would raise a cloud .of vapor from
the moisture inside, which would congeal on the
plate and inside of the camera, and give the inside
lenses of the tubes the appearance of ground glass,

WINTER VISITS. 143

which of course would prevent the landscapes be-
ing imaged upon the plate. Our only resort was
to keep the plate and holder only a few degrees
warmer than the camera. Then putting our plate
into the camera, exposing, taking it from the cam-
era, and carrying it under protection of the heat of
the body and coat, developing as soon as possible,
success crowned our efforts. We were from two
to five seconds in taking the plate-holder from its
shelter under our coats, fixing it in the camera, lift-
ing slide, exposing and returning plate to shelter.
If we delayed in the least, the negative would be
frozen and thus spoiled.

In the morning we made a few eight by ten
negatives ; but as we were making the last of them,
the wind freshened up, and we could not make as
many as we wished. The camera presented a large
surface to the wind, and was very decidedly shaken.
We could not have had a much better day for our
work. In the morning there was not a cloud to be
seen in any direction, so to-day we finish all we
intend to do before spring. And now we are ready
to bid " good bye " to our pleasant winter home
above the clouds, and seek a more comfortable place
" down on the earth," as we say. We have been
here a little more than a month, but have been
obliged to keep housed so much of the time that it
seems much longer. Employments and associations

1-14 PHOTOGRAPHING UPON MT. WASHINGTON-

here have been full of interest and extremely pleas-
ant, and it will be with many regrets that I leave
friends and comrades, hoping no accident will befall
them, and that the completest success will crown
their toilsome and hazardous efforts.

Before I close to-day's memoranda, I must speak
of the splendid view which we had, after the wind,
by blowing so fiercely, obliged us to quit work.
We could see distinctly hundreds of mountains,
lakes, ponds, etc. Off to the northeast in the
distance — one hundred and fifty miles distant —
we see Mount Katahdin, the highest mountain in
Maine ; and a little to the north we see mountains
which apparently are much farther away than
Mount Katahdin, and must be in the upper part
of Maine, near Canada. We never before saw the
ocean nearly as plain as to-day. We could see a
great distance " to sea." Off to the southwest we
could see Kearsarge Mountain and Monadnock, and
over the Green Mountains the Adirondacks and
Lake Cham plain, in northern New York, were dis-
tinctly visible. About two o'clock p. M. I noticed
a long hazy line over the ocean. Soon it grew
larger, and then I could see it was nearing us, and
in an hour it was within forty miles ; and we could
see it as a vast sea of cumulus clouds. The wind
was increasing, and had changed from the east to
the south, and it carried the approaching clouds and

KIMBALL'S EXPERIENCE. 145

storm to the north of us. We were thankful to see
it go by without striking us, for it is grand to be-
hold, but not desirable for a covering. To-night
we have some of the effects of it in the wind,
which, as I write, is blowing a ' most violent hurri-
cane,' making the Observatory creak. A rew hours
ago the wind was scarcely noticeable ; now, its
velocity is over eighty miles an hour. And for a
wonder, it comes from the south, instead of north-
west, as usual, and, as a natural consequence, it
tears off all the loose ice and frost from the Ob-
servatory. It seems as if we were at sea in a se-
vere gale, and broken ice and timbers were beating
against our ship, and at times our building shakes
like a vessel in storm. We don't sleep much on
such a stirring occasion. H. A. KIMBALL.

10

CHAPTER X.

THE TELEGRAPH WIRE, HOW OBTAINED, HOW
LAID, AND HOW WORKED.

T was found early in the history of the
White Mountain Expedition that a tele-
graph was essential to success. The com-
mon wire could not be used in winter, as the
ice collecting on it would break it, and the wet
snow covering the wire on the lower part of the
mountain would cause a constant escape of elec-
tricity ; so we must have an insulated wire. The
cost of such a wire was about a thousand dollars,
but fortunately, the Bureau of Telegrams and Re-
ports for the Benefits of Commerce, decided to
make Mount Washington one of their stations for
the winter, and from this Bureau we obtained an
insulated wire and telegraph supplies. It was
planned to take the wire to the summit by the railr
road, but it did not reach the mountain before
the engines were laid up for the winter. The
only alternatives were to get men to carry the wire
up the west side, or else transport it by a long

AURORAL DISPLAY. 147

and tedious route around the mountain and haul
it up the carriage road, rebuilding the hundred
bridges which had been taken up for the winter.
We decided upon the last method.

After the wire had been taken around to the
east side of the mountain, we found that the instru-
ments, batteries, etc., were still at Littleton, and an-
other journey had to be made. So important was
it that there should be the least possible delay,' we
started from the east side of the mountain after the
sun had disappeared behind the mountain summits.
As it was the evening of the grand auroral display
in October, the night ride gave us an opportu-
nity of observing a scene of unusual magnificence.
Through Randolph, the grand peaks of Madison,
Adams, and Jefferson, tower high and seem to
touch the streamers as they shoot upward towards
the zenith and form a beautiful corona. Now it
fades, but reappears in red and crimson lights ;
even in the dark woods of Jefferson the glow of
lio-ht illuminates the dark forests. When we reach

O *

the hills of Whitefield, the aurora has entirely dis-
appeared, and the full autumn moon shines in all its
wonted splendor. Having obtained the supplies,
the next day we returned, and the day following
they were taken up the carriage road to the summit
of the mountain.

148 THE TELEGRAPH WIRE.

THE WIRE HOW LAID.

Though the wire was now upon the summit, it
was still a serious question how it was to be laid
alohg-, the railway. A sled seven feet long was
constructed, the coils were placed upon it, one
being mounted on a reel. One of us sat upon a
board in front to guide the sled and the other was
behind, sliding down hill, as explained on page 75,
and illustrated in the accompanying sketch. The
sled upon the railway glides smoothly down the
steep grade, and the wire uncoils beautifully and is
laid just where it is wanted. It was something feai'-
ful to pass over the high trestle below the Gulf Tank
and on Jacob's Ladder, and even now it almost
makes one shudder to think of those dizzy heights,
the load we had, and the steep grade. But we reach
Marshfield in three hours from the time of starting,
and the wire has been successfully laid. On our
return the wire is fastened down with eyelets close
to the outer rail, and the summit is reached just at
dark. We put it on the ties, because if placed on
the ground where there was little snow, it would be
constantly moved by the wind and soon worn off;
and should it be broken in the snow and ice there
would not be the least possibility of finding where
it was broken, as we should not know where to look
for the wire. On the railway we always know

LAYING THE CABLE ON JACOB'S LADDER.

REPAIRING THE CABLE. 149

where the wire is, and more than half the way to
Marshfield it has been most of the time out of
the snow.

PUTTING THE LINE IN WORKING ORDER.

Sergeant Smith, on his way to the mountain, found
the line between Littleton and Marshfield broken,
and in several places the wind had blown the wire
from off the insulators. The inclement weather
in the first part of December prevented all at-
tempts to repair it. One of the party went to
Littleton on the 10th, repairing the line on his way
there. No breaks had been detected in the cable
so far, as it was almost throughout its entire length
covered with snow and frost.

On the 12th we descended the mountain, and
putting an instrument into the circuit at Marsh-
field we had communication with Littleton, N. H.,
showing that the main line of the Western Union
Company was in working order and that the breaks
were in the cable. The chances of finding them
were very small, the snow being in some places over
twelve feet deep, but we had determined to make
the cable a success. Digging out the wire as we
ascended the mountain, and testing the current by
connecting the cable from time to time with the
main wire to the summit, which we used for a
ground connection by running it into the brook at

150 THE TELEGRAPH WIRE.

Marslifield, we ascertained that the cable was all
right as far as Jacob's Ladder. Here after a dili-
gent search, we not only found the cable broken,
but also the main line or the ground wire. We
were convinced that it would be necessaiy to de-
tach the cable here from the railway, as the tres-
tlework is from twenty-five to thirty feet high, ex-
posing the small cable, which is merely a No. 16
copper wire, covered with gutta percha, to the force
of the wind. So a new piece was put in and buried
in the snow along the railway to the upper end of
Jacob's Ladder. We proceeded on our weary trip
up the mountain, still testing the current as we
went along, until we reached Lizzie Bourne's mon-
ument. Here, after removing some six feet of
snow, we found another break ; but, as night set
in, we were unable to mend it.

The following day found us early at work mend-
ing the last break, although the weather was fear-
ful. A dense cloud rested upon the mountain, and
the drifting masses of frozen mist soon covered us
with a coat of snow and ice. Returning to the
Observatory we found the instrument working and
Littleton calling. We all were overjoyed, as our
arrangements were now completed, and the cable
a success. Although the line was worked with a
powerful battery, the current remained rather
feeble, a circumstance which we attributed to the

TELEGRAPH INSTRUMENTS. 151

great number of naked joints in the cable. The
difficulties that were to be overcome in transmitting
and receiving messages may easily be imagined.
As a matter of course, our telegraphic connection
with the u world below " is looked upon by us as
the most important outfit of our Observatory, as we
can thus transmit meteorological observations, and
in return hear of all news of importance as soon if
not sooner than many a person " down on earth."
For the latter we are under many obligations to the
obliging operator (Mr. A. H. Currier) at Littleton,
N. H.

The length of the cable is nearly three miles, and
the distance from Marshfield, where it connects
with the Western Union Company's line, to Lit-
tleton, is twenty-three miles. The instniment used
here is a box-sounder, a combination of relay and
sounder with key attached, manufactured by L.
G. Tillotson and Co., in New York, and it be-
longs to the Signal Department U. S. A. These
instruments are used in the army field-telegraph-
trains, and dispense, up to circuits of over a hun-
dred miles in length, by fair insulation, with the
use of local batteries and sounders.

The line has frequently been charged with atmos-
pheric electricity, especially in the afternoon of
the 7th of January, when on account of the high
tension of these currents it became utterly unman-
ageable. When the key was opened, the flow of

152 THE TELEGRAPH WIRE.

the current still continued, exhibiting bright sparks
leaping from one platinum point to the other.
After dark no auroral display could be seen.
There is a wire connecting the summit with the
Glen House, which is detached from the poles and
laid upon the ground during the winter to protect
it from the violent winds prevailing at this season.
We had it attached to an instrument, and although
no battery was used, we discovered that it was
sometimes charged with electric currents, which
deflected the needle considerably. The Glen wire
was broken about a mile and a half from the sum-
mit, and the one down the railway had parted at
about the same distance, thus making the phe-
nomenon quite remarkable.

REPAIRING THE LINE UNDER DIFFICULTIES.

The first interruption occurred on the morning
of January 14, but the break was soon found and
repaired. Eight days later the cable broke again,
and Sergeant Smith, while searching for the break
near Jacob's Ladder, slipped on the ice and slid a
considerable distance, and only saved himself from
being dashed to pieces on the rocks by catching in
the trestle-work of the railway. The return to the
summit was a feat which took him some four hours
to perform, he being deprived of the use of his left
foot. Another break occurred early in February,

REPAIRING THE CABLE. 153

but fortunately it was near the summit. Six trips
had to be made before the damage was repaired,
the wind blowing at the time seventy-six miles an
hour and the temperature being 16°.

During the tremendous storm of February 17 the
cable was considerably damaged near the Great
Gulf, and the extreme cold and stormy weather
during the subsequent three days prevented repairs,
although Sergeant Smith made several attempts,
returning once with the tips of his fingers frozen.
Communication was finally reestablished on the
afternoon of February 22.

Only a few days later, the cable ceased to work
again, and it was found that the ground wire was
broken. The operator then tried one of the iron
strap rails of the railway for a ground and it worked
all right, although not as satisfactory as the wire,
for the wet snow covering the railway near the base
of the mountain formed the only medium of es-
cape. Through some unknown cause this ground
connection failed to work in April, and the break
in the main wrire not having been found yet, we
tried the water pipes running from the upper
springs to the tank at Jacob's Ladder, and this
worked excellently, especially after a long iron
spike had been driven into the soil near the upper
line of vegetation and the pipe connected with it.

154

THE TELEGRAPH WIRE.

Ever since then the line has worked finely, and
we consider ourselves fortunate that no more se-
rious troubles have interfered with the sending of
messages. The main line to Littleton remained in

O

good order throughout the winter, while during the
previous season it had been severely damaged by
the falling of decayed trees, etc. As the greater
part of the messages transmitted over our line were
for places quite distant, the Western Union Tele-
graph Company has derived a handsome income
from that source.

CHAPTER XL

LIFE ON THE SUMMIT.

OST persons suppose that life on Mount
Washington in winter must be gloomy, and
gloomy enough it would be, at times, when
the summit is enveloped in dense clouds for weeks,
if it were not for the cheering click of the telegraph
instrument. They might suppose also that time
would be extended indefinitely ; that at night we
should wish it was morning, and that in the morn-
ing we should long for night to come, and thus drag
out a weary existence. If the time of any persons
in excellent health is wholly occupied in a pursuit
that is congenial they are rarely gloomy, and are
almost unconscious of the flight of time. But here,
besides good health and time occupied, there is
an excitement found nowhere else.

THE EXCITEMENT OF LIVING ON A MOUNTAIN
SUMMIT.

One gorgeous sunrise throwing a flood of light
across a sea of clouds, one glorious sunset tingeing

156 LIFE ON THE SUMMIT.

the clouds with crimson and gold, and as the sun
descends leaving the blush of day upon these snowy
summits, or a storm unprecedented at lower eleva-
tions, infuse into our life enough that is grand and
sublime to occupy the thoughts for weeks. With
such surroundings, a person, on account of the in-
tense excitement, may live too fast to have life
extended to full threescore years and ten ; but there
is a pleasure in it that would fully compensate for a
few days cut off' from the number to which life
might be lengthened if passed in some quiet retreat,
undisturbed by anything that arouses the whole
beino1, and carries the mind into ecstasies of delight.

o* o

So days and weeks pass, and we are almost uncon-
scious of the lapse of time.

OUR ARRANGEMENTS FOR COMFORT AND CONVEN-
IENCE.

But this record would not be complete without
something specific being said of our habitation and
our daily life, and it cannot be told better than in
the language of " Ranger," the excellent corre-
spondent of the " Boston Journal."

" As the lessee of the Tip-top and Summit
houses raised objections to the occupancy of either
of those buildings, Mr. Huntington and his com-
panions obtained permission from the Railway
Ccmpany to set up their lonely habitation in the

TIIK IIOMK OK THE EXPEDITION.

'J his illustration is from a photograph of the building, taken the middle of
December, when the frostwork was nearly three feet thick over almost the
entire structure.

CONSTRUCTION OF THE BUILDING. 157

newly erected depot. The depot was built last
summer, and occupies a site of the same elevation
as the Tip-top and Summit houses, northeasterly of
those structures, upon the verge of the little plateau
forming the summit of the mountain. The build-
ing, unlike the two diminutive public houses,
whose sides are of stone, is constructed wholly of
wood. It is sixty feet long by twenty-two feet
wide, and stands nearly north and south. It has
eleven-feet posts, and the elevation of the ridge-pole
is twenty-five feet, the roof being of the same form
as the roofs of ordinary buildings. The apartment
inhabited by the party is situated in the southwest
corner of this edifice. It is a room about twenty
feet long, eleven feet wide, and eight feet high.
The larger portion of the depot forms a sort of
vestibule to this room and is wholly inclosed except
at the easterly end of the northern face, where the
outer door is situated. The little room was formed
in the following manner : 1st, there was the thick
plank floor of the depot itself, which constituted a
good foundation to build upon ; 2d, a course of
sheathing paper was laid over the original floor ;
3d, an additional floor of close-fitting boards was
then laid down ; 4th, two thicknesses of sheathing
paper were placed on the top of the second floor ;
5th, a layer of carpet lining was added ; and 6th,
a thick woolen carpet was made the uppermost

158 LIFE ON THE SUMMIT.

layer of all. The inside of the outer walls was
covered first with tarred paper, then with boards,
a layer of sheathing paper was added, and wall
paper was spread upon this. The ceiling is
formed of two thicknesses of boards with sheathing
paper between, and the inner Walls consist of single
thicknesses of boards, sheathing paper, and wall
paper. There are two double windows — or rather
half windows — on the westerly side of the room,
and these are protected by strips of board without.
The door of the room is of ordinary size, but the
outer door is nothing but a little opening two feet
square, some two feet from the floor. After the
last observation is taken at ten o'clock p. M., the
little aperture is closed by means of two sliding
boards, but at all other times is left open. Very
little additional cold finds its way into the building
through this aperture, and its elevation from the
floor prevents the snow from blowing in to any great
extent. More snow finds its way through the
crevices between the boards upon the sides of the
building than through this hole. Contrary to what
ordinary experience would seem to teach, the north
side of the building is less exposed to the fury of
the elements than any other.

"We have thus far described none of the precau-
tion taken to prevent the building from being torn
to pieces by the terrible winter tempests, or from

HINTS TO YOUNG HOUSEKEEPERS. 159

being blown away altogether. The frame-Avork is
of the strongest possible kind, and is fitted together
in the best manner. The sills extend beyond the
walls eight or ten feet, and every means are taken
to fasten the whole structure down to its rocky base.
Within, bolts, iron rods, and wooden braces add
strength to the walls, and three strong iron chains,
securely fastened to the rocks, pass over the roof.
Notwithstanding all these provisions the building
rocks and bends before a furious wind-storm in a
manner well calculated to create consternation and
dismay. An ordinary house would stand no longer
before such terrific blasts than would a house of
cards before an ordinary wind. The great gale in
December awakened the fears of the party for the
safety of the depot, but as the structure stood that
frightful assault it was thought no further danger
on that score need be apprehended. It was never-
theless thought best to strengthen the walls with

O O

additional braces and supports.

" Young couples about to enter upon the respon-
sibilities of housekeeping might learn some useful
hints from these dwellers of the clouds. The little
snuggery is made to serve not only as a kitchen,
dining-room, sleeping-room, sitting-room, parlor,
library, and study, but also as an observatory and tel-
egraph office. Every inch of space is utilized.
The telegraph instrument, battery, and other appur-

160 LIFE ON THE SUMMIT.

tenances of lightning communication with the out-
side world, are in one corner of the cozy apartment,
beneath one of the windows. At the same end of
the room is a bedstead, while above it is a wide
bunk, arranged after the manner of an upper berth
in a steamboat. The most prominent objects that
greet one upon entering the door are two stoves,
which occupy the middle of the floor. One is an
ordinary cook-stove, and the other is a Magee par-
lor stove. The latter is prized very highly on ac-
count of its marvelous heating properties. A story
was published not long since to the effect that it
required seven dampers to regulate the draft, and
also that considerably more than one half of the coal
was already consumed. Neither of these statements
are true. The stoves are easily enough governed
by single dampers, and as for fuel, Mr. Huntington
has enough on hand to last until next summer.
The dining-table, which is generally covered with
books, papers, and writing materials when not other-
wise in use, occupies one corner of the room, while
between it and the telegraph instrument is a well-
filled book-case and several shelves. Shelves, in
fact, appear everywhere, and they contain a general
assortment of everything, while clothing, and at
least an hundred articles of utility, hang suspended
from pegs and nails. A writing tablet is hung upon
the wall near the head of the bed, and upon this

VIEW OF INTERIOR OF THE OBSERVATORY

WALL ORNAMENTS. 161

the observations are bulletined until they can be
telegraphed, copied into the record books, or placed
in the blank forms provided by the Smithsonian In-
stitution. Beside it are two barometers, from one
of which observations are made, and further on is a
formidable row of smoking pipes. Some waggish
member of the party has hung the tin sign of the
old telegraph office over Sergeant Smith's seat, and
also inscribed something of similar import on the
door without. During the early part of the winter
the corner of the room now occupied in part by the
telegraph was used by Messrs. Clough and Kimball
as a ' dark room ' in their photographic operations.
The anemometer — the curious little instrument
for measuring the velocity of the wind — is in a state
of quietude on a shelf over the table. Beside the
book-case, upon a projecting beam, is a coffee-mill,
affording a striking exhibition of the combination of
the scientific and practical. Among the other wall
ornaments are a pair of snow-shoes, a hand-saw and
other mechanical implements, an infinitude of tin
dishes, a map of Paris and its fortifications, the pho-
tograph of a young lady, etc. The floor is made
the receptacle of numberless articles which cannot
be put anywhere else. There seems to be, in short,
'a place for everything,' but it not always hap-
pens, I believe, that everything is found in its place.

In the absence of the female element of a well-
11

162 LIFE ON THE SUMMIT.

regulated household, the scientific gentlemen con-
tent themselves with following out one half of the
apothegm. They all complain that it is the easiest
place to lose anything in they ever saw. In justice,
however, it should be said that the apartment in
general is in a very neat and tidy -condition. A
rocking-chair and three or four common chairs and
stools, together with the table and beds, comprise all
the movable furniture, while an ingenious member
of the party has constructed a reclining seat upon
one of the wooden braces. Most of the provisions
are kept in the open part of the depot without, —
about all, in fact, that freezing does not affect.
Frozen pieces of fresh meat and of salt pork are
suspended from the roof of this commodious refrig-
erator."

CHAPTER XII.

JOURNAL.

October 8th.

STARTED for the summit of Mount Wash-
ington with Mr. Cole of Berlin Falls ;
passed the Glen House at 4.30 p. M.
Stopped just above the first mile-post and ate our
supper. We intended to camp, but it was so mild
and pleasant that we concluded to keep on. When
near the Half-way House we had a grand view of
Mount Adams. How high it seemed as it lifted its
huge form up into the night. When between the
fourth and fifth mile-posts, the moon just on the
wane rose over the Carter Range. What a charm
there is in looking out upon these mountains, when
the moon throws her gentle light across them.
How mysterious those deep gorges as we look
down into their depths, or rather try to look, for
their lowest depths are veiled in impenetrable dark-
ness. The ascent, which on a warm day in sum-
mer is so fatiguing, now seems like a dream, for we
scarcely know that we have put forth any effort to

164 JOURNAL.

reach the. summit. Found Professor Hitchcock,
Mr. Phelps, and two men from Brooklyn, N. Y. It
looks rather dreary here, no room finished in this
immense building; they were trying to get fire
enough to serve some tea for supper, but I think we
had better sleep awhile, perhaps the coal will get
up heat enough before morning, and we shall have
tea instead of coffee for breakfast.

October 10. To-day we worked fitting up our
room. We put in double windows, laid a double
floor above and below with felt between the boards.
Around the room we put felt, then boards, and on
these we put sheathing paper; on the floor a lined
carpet. We then put our two stoves in place. I
think we shall be able to keep warm. Having some
calcined plaster, I suggested to Cole that we might
have hard finish overhead, but looking up to the
rough joist and boards, he said he thought it was
" hard finished " already.

October 13. How clear it is to-day ; can it be
that what I see is something real ? Are those cer-
tainly hills, mountains, and lakes, and can that bright
line be the ocean, or does an excited imagination
form this picture in the mind ? It is clear northward
as well, and I recognize many places, so the scene
must be real ; but I would not have believed, that I
could see with such distinctness so far away.

October 18. Went down as far as the Gulf House,

A LIVELY TIME. 165

and returning put the wire of Western Union Com-
pany on the trestle to be used as a ground. When
we reached the summit it was raining, and the wind
was blowing fiercely. Cole lay on the bed, and
covered up his head so that he should not hear the
wind. Going out I saw that our door was giving
a little, and thinking it might possibly blow in I
told him I thought he had better make it more se-
cure. He went out and put on additional fasten-
ings, but in half an hour in it came. The boards
and planks lying about in the building, were
thrown in every direction. I never saw boards
move about so lively, they seemed to have lost their
weight. I know they were heavy enough the
other day, when I put them in the building. We
tried to put the door in place, but with all our
efforts we could not get it near the doorway ; we
found ourselves almost powerless, for several times
we were thrown down as though we had no
strength. We put the door against the side of the
building and tried to push it along, but when about
six inches of it became exposed, in it came again.
As a last resort we nailed a piece of plank on the
floor, put the door against the side of the house,
then took a piece of scantling, put one end against
the plank, the other against the centre of the door.
One held the scantling while the other pushed
the door, and in this way we got it into place and

166 JOURNAL.

nailed it so securely, that I do not think we shall
open it again soon. We were not out more than
half the time I have been writing these lines, yet
my fingers were neai'ly frozen.

October 22. There is a little snow but con-
siderable frost-work on the mountain. Went down
to-day and took up the bridges.

November 12. Started from Marshfield at seven
A. M., arrived at the summit of Mount Washington
at 9.30. It rained until I got within three fourths
of a mile of the summit, then there was a frozen
mist. The snow was six inches deep at Marshfield,
at Waumbek Junction a foot. At the second tank
the snow was drifted, none on the ties above. On
the summit it was drifted so that neither at the
Summit or Tip-top House could the doors be
seen ; there was very little about the depot. I am
here alone, but should have come if I had known
that I had to stay alone all winter.

November 15. Have been above the clouds all
day long, some of the time not a single mountain
top could be seen, occasionally Mounts Adams and
Jefferson would appear, but most of the day in
every direction was this illimitable sea of clouds.
Being here alone, one has nothing to do but to
contemplate this immensity of space bounded only
by the sky.

November 24. The barometer lower this morn-

SOME SMOKE. 167

ing than it has been before. Wind blowing
fiercely from the northwest, not steadily but in
gusts. The house creaks in every joint. It is
something fearful to sit here alone and hear the
wind howl while showers of ice are blown against
the side of the building and along the roof. But
there was something still more to be dreaded. In
the afternoon, as it was growing cold in my room, I
put some wood in the large stove, thinking I would
have a fire, but instead of the smoke going up the
pipe, it all came out in the room. I was nearly
suffocated, but the smoke cleared away ; then the
gas began to come out of the other stove. If the
smoke was bad, the gas was still worse. All the
calamities that people had predicted would befall
us, stood before me as so many grim demons ready
for their victim. I suspected the cause : the frost-
work had formed on the cap over the pipe, and had
left on the opposite side a place for the smoke to
escape, but a change in the wind was driving the
gas out in the room. I could not go upon the roof
to get the ice off, that was impossible. I tried to
unjoint the pipe, but it was put up to withstand the
storms, and besides on account of the rust the joints
adhered so firmly that it seemed impossible to get
them apart. Finally it came off near the stove,
then it was taken off joint by joint, but when near
the roof I thrust a stick up the pipe and knocked off

168 JOURNAL.

the frost. The pipe was replaced and the fire
burned all right. I think I shall take the cap off
the first pleasant day.

November 30. Clear until two p. M., when
light clouds began to pass over the mountain, but
became dense toward night. Was surprised by the
arrival of Clough, Kimball, Cheney, and Bracy.
I am not likely to be alone again this winter.

December 4. Sergeant Smith arrived to day.

December 12. Clough and Smith went down
to the base of the mountain, and as they returned
they found that the wire would work to the second
tank, but could get no current on the summit. In
the morning the wind was south, but changed to
northwest in the afternoon. At ten A. M. there
was a bow on the clouds, and at twelve p. M. there
were in addition three supernumerary bows which
remained for an hour and a half, and some of the
time they were remarkably distinct. Late in the
afternoon the sky was intensely blue.

December 13. The telegraph worked to-day for
the first time ; now we are in the world again.

TIP-TOP HOUSE.

CHAPTER XIIL

JOURNAL CONTINUED.

December 21.

OREFATHERS' DAY was celebrated by
the arrival of Prof. Hitchcock, L. B. New-
ell, E. Thompson, F. Woodbridge, and the
writer. We ascended in a rough southwest snow-
storm, with the velocity of the wind at 59 miles
per hour. It is pleasant to be located at last and
settled down for the coming six months. It is quite
a change in one short week from busy Boston to
this out-of-the-world-up-in-the-clouds Observatory.
In the face of a gale blowing sixty miles per hour,
Messrs. Kimball and Thompson took an observation,
— nothing very remarkable in itself, — but as it was
from the roof of the Tip-top House, the feat is
worthy of record. They were out but five minutes,
yet their coats, caps, and hair were covered with
frost, and Mr. Thompson had slightly frozen a fin-
ger. Later the wind had fallen to thirty miles,
and now (eleven p. M.) it is moderate for Mount

170 JOURNAL

Washington. There are no signs of animal life
outside. Mice are plenty in the house, and it is
thought that a sable has taken up winter quarters
under the building.

December 23. Kimball was up first this morn-
ing, and had the first sight of as beautiful a sunrise
as one could wish. Unwilling that we sleepy fel-
lows should lose it, he called us out. All were on
their feet instantly, quickly washed and dressed.
The wash-stand is a discarded butter-tub. It was
a cold morning, the thermometer indicating 0°,
but we don't feel the cold as sensibly as in the
lower regions. C. and K. took some fine views

O

to-day, among them one of the Observatory with
C., S., and N. standing by the door. Later in the
day they took one from the roof of the hotel.
They have been successful against odds, having
had but three days so far suitable for work during
a month's residence. To return to the morning:
after breakfast we all took hold of the forenoon's
work. Mr. Woodbridge and myself washed the
dishes, the others clearing the room ; for though
this party are shut out from society, they seem
to stick to the ways they have learned " down in
the world," and keep house in the most approved
style.

December 24. Yesterday afternoon and late at
night a " snow-bank " lay along the south ; this fore-

CHRISTMAS DAY. 171

noon snow was falling with a temperature of — 13°.
At times during the day the wind was as high as
seventy miles an hour, consequently we were con-
fined to the house. Mr. S. has much to do, many
messages being sent to and from the " lower re-
gions." He sends his first regular report to Wash-
ington to-night. So it seems that the government
consider this station of importance, if the public do
not. In working this line, Mr. S. has had many
obstacles to overcome ; but he seems to be deter-
mined to .have it work all right ere long. Canned
beef, tomato sauce, coffee, and pilot bread consti-
tuted our dinner. Find no vegetables but onions, —
bad for us. It is cold to-night (now, nine p. M.,
— 15°), and only 42° in the room, although we
have two fires. Mr. K. received a telegram from
home to-night. We sent a press dispatch of " A-
merry Christmas to all the world below." Christ-
mas ! And what a contrast to some former ones ! —
in situation at least. But I would not exchange
places with the most favored of fortune this night,
nor do I esteem any preceding Christmas Eve above
this one. A jolly party we are, but for the tele-
graph shut out from all intercourse with mankind.
The wire attached to the sounder on the little table
across the room is the connecting link between the
" outside barbarians " and ourselves. They are
doomed to read (curiosity if not interest will lead

172 JOURNAL.

them) the reports from Mount Washington. We
have a saying that whatever is done is all for the
" Benefit of Commerce."

December 25. There were no clouds above or
around the summit. Below, and but a little lower
than this peak, the clouds were dense and covered
an extensive tract of country. Through the less
dense portion of the lighter clouds, the sun's rays
gave a peculiar rose-tint extremely beautiful in
effect. This was my first cloud view, and it was a
treat beyond expectation. About ten A. M., Mr. K.
and myself went out for an observation. We had
the pleasure of witnessing the formation of sev-
eral coronas, sometimes single but oftener three,
even on one occasion four distinct circles, ap-
pearing and disappearing so rapidly that it was
-impossible to more than catch a glimpse of form and
color. It was a phenomenon of rare beauty. Mr.
K. devoted himself to the task of getting up a din-
ner worthy of the day. His efforts were entirely
successful, and as the highest compliment we could
pay him, we did full justice to the repast " our
Blot" had prepared. The bill of fare embraced
roast lamb, onions, canned peaches, corn-starch
pudding, and sauces. It was not a bad dinner to
sit down to on Mount Washington on Christinas
day ! Mr. S. and I did the smoking for the whole
party ; all for the " Benefit of Commerce." S..

CLOUD MASSES. 17 5

K., and N. made a call at the Tip-top House, but
did not stay long, the wind was too severe. Mr. S.
takes our four-footed friends, the sable and mice,
under his especial care, and sees that they get all
the waste food. They are our companions, though
we see them but seldom.

January 10. After ten A. M. the summit was
free from clouds, but below masses of clouds were
driven along the valleys and over the lower sum-
mits, and above there was more or less of cirro-
stratus. The clouds about and over gave grand
effects of light and shade along the mountain
ranges ; they were particularly fine on Adams and
Jefferson and near the Glen. The snow is nearly
all off the houses and the rocks, — a great change
in three days' time. I cannot let the day pass
without a mention of the high temperature — at
one p. M. it was 37°. Like April it seemed, but
who knows what it will be to-morrow ?

January 14. Last night we saw a fine aurora,
broken arches with streamers. Never before was
one apparently so near ; it certainly did look as
though it was within reach. The driving masses
of clouds passing between it and us made the view
more interesting, as they filled the valley between
us and the ridge north, nearly at our level. Some
of the views to-day have been grand, although it
has been more or less cloudy. The lichen-covered
rocks look splendid this warm weather.

174 JOURNAL.

January 16. Still raining. At eleven this fore-
noon Mr. S. started out on a voyage of discovery,
but it rained so hard and the walking was so diffi-
cult that he soon came back. Didn't stop long
however; he is too energetic a man to give up
easily ; so putting on an overcoat and otherwise pre-
pared, he once more went out, determined to find
the break in the wire, if he had to go to Littleton.
Wished him good-luck, not expecting to see him
for three or four days, and he was off. But we
soon heard the click, click, click of the instrument,
and then we knew that he had found the break.
In half an hour he returned ; the break was at the
Gulf Tank. Mr. Huntington went down to the
spring to-day and brought up a pail of water. A
week ago this was an arctic region, now it is more
like April in the valleys of New Hampshire.

January 17. The wind was high during the night,
say eighty miles. This A. M. at seven o'clock only
seventy-five ! — strong enough, however, to compel
Mr. H. to sit while he measured the force of the
wind, that he might not be carried over into Tucker-
man's Ravine. A trip to that famous locality is
pleasant under some circumstances — on a fine
summer day, for instance, — but not so agreeable
on the wings of a winter gale. Has blown stiffly
all day, yet we have taken the air several times —
pleasant walks in the face of a fifty-mile breeze.

SEA OF CLOUDS. 175

Perfectly clear at sunset. Had one of the best
views of the shadow of Mount Washington yet
obtained. The mountains far and near look dull
and gray now, since the rains.

January 18. I have seen to-day a sea of
clouds. It is a rare, a grand, a magnificent sight.
At ten A. M. westward from a line due north and
south, as far as the eye could see, the clouds pre-
sented the appearance of a frozen ocean. The
surface level and motionless, apparently, but really
moving eastward and only a little below the sum-
mit. In no direction west of a line north and
south was there a glimpse of mountain or valley.
Turning to the east the contrast was striking, for in
this direction there was scarcely a single cloud, and
the atmosphere was remarkably clear. Saco Valley
was never more distinct, while the range comprising
Clay, Jefferson, and Adams was completely hid-
den, but the Carter range loomed up as on a clear
morning when not a single cloud can be seen, and
far away the ocean was plainly visible. I went out
south to a point of rocks and stood there almost
over the clouds. Above were beautiful forms of
cirrus clouds, very high.

January 19. Mr. H. called us out before sun-
rise to see the beauty of the morning ; in truth it
was wicked to miss such a glorious view as we had.
Perfectly clear and nearly calm. Never before

176 JOURNAL.

have I seen the shadow of the mountain so grand
on the western sky, never so charming the purple
tints at break of day. Never so impressive have
been the shaded outlines, the lights and shadows
on the mountains and in the valleys as on this
memorable morning. Sunset was but the comple-
ment of the morning, and the evening is beautiful
as ever night can be ; the stars shine with a light
as- soft as June, — all, all, is beautiful. Who would
not live on Mount Washington ? Who would not
brave danger, endure hardship, and the loss of
social ties for the pleasure of these clear winter
days upon the mountain summit ? H. and S. took
their constitutional in the shape of a sled-ride down
toward the Glen, about a mile ride, making some
of the way 2.40. It is slightly hazardous, but full
of fun and very exciting.

January 21. Mr. S. started early for the
camp at the base of the mountain, but met with a
serious accident, badly spraining his ankle near
Jacob's Ladder, so that he had to return. How
fortunate that he did not break his leg, as we

o*

should have known nothing of it, and had he not
been able to crawl to the camp he surely must have
perished ! We should not have been alarmed if he
had not returned, for it is no unusual thing for the
one going down to stay over night.

January 22. Having a gale to-day, and not

A SEVERE GALE. 177

only a high wind, but a temperature below any-
thing I have ever experienced before, now at nine
p. M. — 34° inside the door. The wind is eighty
miles, blowing steadily. At two p. M. wind seventy-
two, Professor H. measured the velocity. He had
to sit with a line around him, myself at the other
end indoors, as an anchor ; even then it was almost
impossible for him to keep his position. Tempera-
ture — 31°. I put up a pendulum this morning in
our room, it is four feet long, and the rod passes
through a sheet of card board, on which are marked
the points of compass. The oscillations when the
wind blew in gusts were in every direction, chang-
ing suddenly, and sometimes had a rotary motion.
When the wind was steady the oscillations were
northwest and southeast. With two fires the room
is cold to-night. Had a long talk with Littleton
and Concord, all anxious to know how cold it is
here.

January 23. The wind raged all night. The
house rocked fearfully, but as we had no fear of a
wreck, it did not disturb us much. Sometimes it
would seem as if things were going by the board,
but an inspection showed everything all right. It
is a sublime affair, such a gale, — only we do not
care to have it repeated too often. Nobody was
hurt or scared, though there was not much sleep

for our party, with such an uproar of the elements.
12

178 JOURNAL.

Evidently the spirits of the mountain are angry
at this invasion of their domain. Toward morn-
ing the wind ceased, and all day it has been nearly
calm. The temperature outside — 43°. Professor
H. and myself sat up all night to keep fires going.
The pendulum gave oscillation of an inch and a
half at times during the night. Temperature to-
night ten P. M. — 40° ; a changeable climate this.

January 27. Stormy all day, wind from forty
to sixty-eight miles per hour. H. measured the
force of the wind at seven p. M. How he stood
up against it is hard to tell, — came in covered with
frost and snow. To-night we had some fearful
gusts, the house creaked in every joint, and the ice
was thrown against the side of the building in ter-
rific showers.

Crash went a pane of glass, in a minute another,
and then a third. Lively times for awhile, but
fortunately the windows are double, and the inner
ones escaped. We fitted some boards in case they
should be needed, but soon after the wind moderated.

January 30. It is a quiet, mild, clear day.
Clouds beautiful, bright, and fleecy, floating grace-
fully past the summit. At four p. M. one dense
cloud stretched from Mount Washington to the
Green Mountains.

January 31. The most glorious sunrise this
winter. To the east was a sea of clouds, somewhat

FINE VIEW AT SUNRISE. 179

broken and much lower than usual. The protrud-
ing peaks resembled islands more than ever before.
Over Northern New Hampshire and Maine, and
along the coast, the clouds were veiy dense, but
their upper surface as the sun shone across them
was of dazzling brightness, while singular forms of
cirrus clouds overcast the sky. Low in the west it
was intensely black, and detached masses of clouds
floated along the northern horizon. For an hour
after sunrise all these cloud forms were constantly
changing in color, — purple and crimson, leaden
hues and rose-tints, almost black and dazzling white.

February 1. Clouds on the summit till noon,
then it suddenly cleared up. Early in the fore-
noon the wind was fully fifty miles an hour ; at noon
it was nearly calm and till nine P. M., not above 20.
At nine p. M. the thermometer indicated — 16°. Mr.
Huntington went to the camp for mail, this morn-
ing, and returned at one p. M. bringing nothing.
No one has been out to the White Mountain House
this week. Mr. Smith has been making repairs on
the line. It is his first day out since the 21st ult.
S. has sent off all delayed messages this evening.

From 3.30 p. M. to sunset there were the finest
cloud displays possible. Eastward heavy masses of
cloud in color from gray to an* intense black ; west,
detached cirro-stratus presenting every shade and
color. Along the northern horizon a clear, white

180 JOURNAL.

light rested ; the west was burning bright in crim-
son, purple, and gold, while far south, fading out
toward the east into gray, the color was a delicate
rose-tint. Below to the west, far as we could see,
the whole country was covered with cloud. The icy
peaks glow and glisten in the bright sunlight. The
transitions of shades and tints, the colors burning
into the radiant sunset, surpassing anything we have
seen yet for a sunset scene, mark this as a day
never to be forgotten. As I write it seems like a
dream-picture.

Thursday, February 2, 10 P. M. This has been
one of the indifferent days, of which there are for-
tunately few. Just now it looks as though the
night would prove the counterpart of the day, for
it is " blowing great guns." All day the wind has
been light, and it was nearly calm this evening
till half an hour since, when, without any warning
the gale began, not with a rising wind, but a single
blast that shook the house to its foundations. I
said that we had no warning of its approach, we
had notice of it in the falling of the barometer.

O

A moment before the first blast, some one called
attention to the quiet night, remarking that the
storm would not probably reach us before morning,
when conversation «vas suddenly interrupted by
the uproar of the elements. We had a hearty
laugh at the expense of the party who predicted a

VELOCITY OF THE WIND. 181

pleasant night. Now, eleven o'clock, the wind has
risen to the dignity of a gale. As the temperature
is — 20° out-doors, and too low for comfort in this
room, we are going to replenish the fires and retire
to our more comfortable beds.

A wind blowing sixty miles an hour is quite as
agreeable as these calm, cloudy days, when if one
goes out there is nothing to see, or, if from choice
remains in-doors, it is to sit in the twilight gloom of
the little room. In cloudy weather we frequently
light up at three o'clock. Think I had better toast
my half-frozen feet and go to bed, as Professor and
S. have already done.

Friday, February 3. Well, it did blow last
night, making some of the time such a racket out-
doors and in-doors too for that matter, that sleep
was out of question. Must have been high as ninety
during several of the heaviest gusts. For a change
we get to-day the most severe snow-storm of the
winter, so far. The wind is northwest, the point
from which our storms and hurricanes come. At
no time has the temperature been higher than 5° ;
it was — 25° this morning at seven o'clock.

O 9

S. and myself are yet on the sick-list, so all the
hard work falls to Professor H. To add to the
discomfort of our situation the line failed last night,
just after S. got off the Press despatch. Cold as
it is, and has been all day, Professor H. made six

182 JOURNAL.

trips down the railway repairing line. His method
was to find and repair a break, then run for the
house, get thoroughly warmed and rested, and then
out for another attempt. The last time he went
to the Gulf, below there he did not dare go. So,
as there is at least one more splice to make, far as
any good for to-night telegraphing goes, his labors
were of no avail. S. and I have taken things qui-
etly, spending the day in reading.

It is not a trifling duty for a day like this, to
keep the fires going. The wind has not been high
through the day, but is now, nine o'clock, rising.
The intense cold of to-day makes our little, dark,
rough-finished room, seem a very cosy place.

Saturday, February 4, 9 p. M. The wind
rising toward morning has held its own all day, at
no time being below seventy-five, and since 8.30
acts as though it was ambitious to attain the ninety
mile standard. This has been so cold a day that
we found Dr. Kane's voyages most suitable read-
ing. At seven A. M. — 33°. From five p. M. to
this last observation it has gradually worked down
to — 40°. We have not suffered from the cold,
simply because we have not exposed ourselves. In
the room at no time has the temperature been lower
than 35°, and most of the time we have managed to
keep it up to about 60°. To do this we have the
stoves at a red heat ; the thermometer hangs pre-

VERY COLD. 183

cisely five feet from the stove ; ten feet from the
stove at the floor to-day the temperature was only
12°, and at the same time was 65° in other parts
of the room. Of course the quantity of coal con-
sumed is greatly in excess of the usual daily allow-
ance. Did we use wood for fuel in such weather
it would be an impossibility to keep ourselves com-
fortable.

Professor H. has taken the anemometer out for
a three minutes' airing at the several regular hours
of observation. I timed him the last hour. I
much prefer to be the timer in a wind like this,
than the one to hold the anemometer. Had hard
work to reach the house, — don't think he will care
to try it again to-night. Evidently we shall catch
it, as the wind is steadily rising and the barometer
falling rapidly.

The cloud was dense in the forenoon, light in
the evening to seven o'clock, and now there is no
upper current of cloud, but the valleys are full.
The moon never shone more brightly. But what a
wind, — will wait till morning and then I may have
something to say. S. is watching the barometer
and reading. Professor reads awhile, then takes a
look out. I am going to bed.

Midnight. Really, there is quite a breeze just
now. Some of the gusts, from what we know of
the measured force, must be fully up to one hun-

184 JOURNAL.

dred miles per hour. In fact it is a first-class hur-
ricane. The wind is northwest, and as the house is
broadside to it the full force is felt. At times it
seems as though everything was going to wreck.

We go to the door and look out, — it is the most
we can do ; to step beyond, with nothing for a hold-
fast, one would take passage on the wings of the
wind in the direction of Tuckerman's Ravine.
However unwillingly one might go, such would be
the result if he should venture outside, so irresist-
ible is the fury of wind.

Find that I froze my fingers while sawing off a
piece of pork for our " Sunday baked beans ; " was
out only five minutes. It was like cutting into a
block of gypsum to saw off that piece of pork.
Wish we had engaged a competent " cullared pus-
son " to take charge of the culinary department, for
none of us are first-class cooks.

What varied sounds the wind has as it changes :
now howling, screeching, roaring, as though the
building was surrounded by demoniac spirits bent
upon our destruction. We shout across the room
to be heard. Now it suddenly lulls and moaning
and sighing it dies away. Then quickly gathering
strength it blows as if it would hurl the house from

o

the summit. The timbers creak and groan and the
windows rattle ; the walls bend inward ; and as
the wind lets go its hold rebound with a jerk that

THE HOUSE GROANS. 185

starts the joints again. The noise is like rifle-
firing in fifty different directions, at the same
moment ; in the room, — a moment ago close by
me as I sat here, leaning against the wall, now
in the outer room or up aloft, and outside as well.
Then there is the trembling and groaning of the
whole building, which is constant. Everything
movable is on the move. Books drop from the
shelves, we pick them up, replace them only to do
it again and again. Professor has just looked at
the thermometer, finds the temperature lower than
at last observation, is now — 40°. Professor and S.
are taking hourly observations. When we hear an
unusually loud report in the outer room one goes to
inspect, — nothing has given away yet. I am going
to bed, to get warm if not to steep.

Sunday, February 5. From one to two A. M.
the wind was higher than during the early part of
the night. Some of the gusts must have been above
100, possibly 110. The tempest roared and thun-
dered. It had precisely the sound of the ocean
waves breaking on a rocky shore. And the build-
ing too had the motion of a ship scudding before a
gale. At three A. M., the temperature had fallen to
— 59° and the barometer stood at 22.810, attached
thermometer 62°. Barometer was lowest yester-
day at eight A. M., when it was 22.508, and at-
tached thermometer 32°. Now, seven A. M., the

186 JOURNAL.

thermometer indicates — 25°. and the wind has
fallen to 70. By accident the spirit thermometer
has not yet been received. But this has been the
only day when the mercurial instrument has not
been perfectly reliable. The valleys are full of
stratus clouds; charged with frost as they are, occa-
sionally sweeping over the summit, they completely
cover one in a moment, hair, beard, and clothing ;
when the face is exposed it feels like the touch of a
hot iron. To breathe this frosty air is very un-
pleasant. A full inhalation induces a severe cough-
ing fit. Our butter-tubs stand in the outer-room ;
this morning we cut a piece of butter for breakfast,
using a chisel and hammer ! — it was like cutting
into a stone.

Nine A. M. Talked over the events of the past
night at the breakfast table, recalling many laugh-
able incidents, and agreeing that we rather enjoyed
the night's experience than otherwise, that it was
a sublime affair (having full confidence that the
house would stand, the storm had no terrors for us) ;
but all things considered, were unanimous in the
opinion that once a fortnight was quite often enough
for such grand displays of the storm-king's power.
Of all the nights since this party came here the last
exceeds every one.

Nine p. M. It has been a rough day ; down in
the world, people would say a severe one ; so should
we but for the recollection of last night.

MEASURING THE WIND.

Sergeant Smith measuring the wind when the velocity was 88 miles to the
hour. The sun shone brightly. Mt. Adams is the prominent snowy peak in
the distance.

AGREEABLE CHANGE. 187

Our coal-bin is under two feet of snow, and any-
where in that room the snow is six inches deep.

The wind is falling and temperature rising ; it
seems as though we should get a good night's rest,
— no one will object in the least.

Monday, February 6. The highest tempera-
ture to-day, 12°, and the lowest now, nine p. M., 2°,
is a very acceptable change. Wind 50 in fore-
noon, now 20, — is good as a calm. It is clear, and
the moonlight is that of the mountain, seen only at
this or higher elevations.

They have put the line in order to-day, and Pro-
fessor sent an interesting Press despatch. Wonder
if our situation excites any comment, especially as
we have held no communication with the lower
world for three days. S. has cleared off his Wash-
ington reports, — a dozen of them. I have improved
the time in writing letters. Professor set some
glass this afternoon, out doors ; — the wind at 40
and thermometer 8°.

Tuesday, February 7. A glorious sunrise ; a
quiet, warm day, and at sunset almost equal to that
of the 1st inst. Temperature at two p. M. 62° in
the sun. Change of temperature since Sunday of
121°!

This afternoon I finished the work of setting
glass begun by Professor yesterday ; worked with-
out gloves and was warm enough. Heard the

188 JOURNAL.

whistle of an engine on the Grand Trunk road ;
seldom the sound of an engine whistle reaches us,
or any sound from the busy world. For anything
of sight or sound below, we might as well be living
on the shore of Morton's Polar Sea.

Professor went to the station this forenoon, came
back at two p. M., — no mail for us. The snow is
deep, but the crust is hard, so he made an easy trip
of it. S. made extensive repairs on the line this
forenoon ; now it is all right till the next heavy
gale. It is working better than ever to-night.

I have given some time this afternoon to the
study of cloud formations. Days like this are so
rare that we improve every opportunity for investi-
gation. Gales, storms, hurricanes, all clear off with
a north wind, — a wind gentle and soft as the south
wind of the lower regions. How can this be ex-
plained? It is S.S.W. to-night and two miles per
hour, a marked contrast to Sunday morning ! Mr.
Holden, " Ranger " of the " Boston Journal," tele-
graphs from Littleton that we may look for him to-
morrow. Great is the rejoicing here, for a visitor
is a god-send, and none more welcome than Mr. H.

Wednesday, February 8. Ten p. M. There is
evidently a snow-storm along the coast, the north-
ern edge within fifty miles of us. This forenoon
we could see the storm as it moved eastward.
It was cloudy and clear by turns on the sum-

FRIENDS ARRIVE. 189

mits, that is, the lower current of cloud rested at
times over us. The valleys east were full, and the
upper stratum overcast the entire country far as
could be seen. Wind S.S.W., from 20 to 50.
Temperature from 14° at seven A. M., to 20° at
two p. M. Interesting to watch the progress of
the storm, and to see the lower current of cloud
driven by an easterly wind running under the
higher stratum which, of course, was moving to-
ward the northeast. Lake Winnipiseogee showing
dimly, all the country beyond hidden from sight.

Professor left immediately after breakfast for
the station — Marshfield, — to escort our expected
guests, Messrs. Holden, Cogswell, and our whilom
companion, Clough. S. arid I busy making things
" ship-shape " around the house ; laid in a supply
of ice, enough for three days' consumption. Are
obliged to look sharp in fair weather and lay in an
ample stock of ice, for it sometimes happens that
we cannot replenish for several days.

At noon the party arrived ; they received from
us a right hearty welcome. They brought a large
mail, and a contribution of magazines and papers.
Some of the dailies are a fortnight old, yet we read
them with as much eagerness as we do the evening
paper at home.

Ours was as jolly a dinner-party as ever met at
" Young's " or " Parker's." And the evening has

190 JOURNAL.

passed pleasantly; we had something to tell our
friends of mountain life, and they, in return, had
much to relate of events occurring since we left the
region below the clouds.

Arrangements are being made for the night ;
our accommodations are limited : it is two in each
bed and two on the floor. S. and I sleep on the
floor ; as we are used to roughing it, doubtless we
shall sleep soundly.

Thursday^ February 9. Nine p. M. Cloudy
all day, wind moderate, temperature high as 26°.
The cloud on the mountain so dense that it was
impossible to see ten rods in any direction. The
frost-work is fine.

Had a roast-turkey dinner with all the side
dishes that our mountain larder could supply. I
must note — if I desire to be considered " truthful
James " — that our roasted bird was baked. The
united verdict was, that it was a capitally got up
meal. Fun and good humor made everything pass
agreeably, and we did not miss the many little ac-
cessories supposed to be necessary to a well-ordered
table.

It is a pleasure to have company in this out-of-
the- world-place. And- I sincerely hope that we
may be able to treat our friends to some one or
more of the Mount Washington novelties, a gor-
geous sunrise or brilliant sunset, a superior show of

FEARS FOR SAFETY. 191

frost-work, or failing in these, something in the line
of hurricanes. It is a pity they should be at the
trouble of making the ascent at this inclement sea-
son and not take back something of the experience
which falls to our lot daily, something to endure
or enjoy, as the case may be.

The line has been down to-day between Littleton
and Concord, this time it is not the Mount Wash-
ington cable.

The papers say that fears were entertained for
our safety during the time the line was down.
Knowing better than the good people below all
about the matter, we had not the least anxiety.

Friday, February 10. The wind high all day,
88 at two P. M. ; Holden having the honor of
measuring its velocity ; Professor timing him. H.
acknowledges perfect satisfaction as regards Mount
Washington winter winds. Now, seven P. M., the

O 7

wind is rapidly rising. Been cloudy all day ; a
dense cloud on the summit charged with frost.

Have done very little writing to-day, any of us,
but we find the time passing quickly in the society
of our visitors. In conversation, our party most
resembles a Debating Club doing up six months'
business in a three days' session.

12.30. It is past midnight and we are beginning
to talk of retiring. About eight o'clock the wind
had worked up to the ninety mile rate, and then

192 JOURNAL.

commenced a furious bombardment of ice from the
summit and frost-work from off the house. The
house shook and trembled as the fiercer blasts beat
against it. Pieces of ice were driven between the
bars protecting the windows, and at last by one
heavy discharge three panes were broken. As
good luck would have it the broken lights were
in the room above. The roar of the wind as it
rushed through the opening was enough to wake a
Rip Van Winkle.

Professor, Clough, Smith, and myself were out in
a moment, and after having the " hurricane " lan-
tern blown out — which is warranted to burn the
brighter the higher the wind, — and twice extin-
guished, we succeeded in nailing boards over the
aperture. Still the bombardment was going on
for an hour, but no more glass was broken. The
supply of ammunition was exhausted by ten o'clock,
and then, though the wind was terrific, we did not
mind the gale.

Professor, Cogswell, and Clough went to bed ;
Clough not to stay there long, for Holden, Smith,
and myself were having too pleasant a time chat-
ting and reading around the table. Only when
a more than usually heavy gust struck, did we
pay any attention to what was going on outside.
Half an hour ago we made coffee and partook of a
lunch ; now we think of retiring. The line failed

A RESPECTABLE GALE. 193

just after H.'s " Journal " despatch went. One
thing sure, — our friends have had the enjoyment of
a very respectable, if not a first-class gale. It does
not seem now as if it would rise to the rank of that
of December, January, or the one of last week.
The temperature at nine p. M. was — 20°. Hourly
observations to-day.

And now we are going to bed to hear the wind
blow, if not to sleep.

February 11. It has been a rough, disagree-
able day ; a dense cloud on the summit till late in
the evening. But as if to compensate us for being
shut in and seeing nothing all day, there has been
during the entire evening a magnificent aurora.
Now — nine, p. M. — the temperature is — 21° ;
not above zero at any time during these last
twenty-four hours.

Clough and Smith made an attempt to repair the
line this morning, but were forced to give in before
they had gone far.

We had for pudding on our table this noon, the
Christmas gift of Mrs. . Our guests pro-
nounced it excellent. Following a griddle-cake
breakfast, this is truly '•' high " living. Subsisting in
the main, as we do, on canned beef, hard-tack, and
coffee, such trifles make " talk " in this household.

Monday, February 13. Evening. So busy in
the forenoon yesterday, writing letters, and lastly,

13

194 JOURNAL.

helping the party in their preparations for the de-
scent, that I found no time for the Journal. In the
afternoon, had the magazines to read.

The party left at 11.20. S. and I watched
them going down as long as we could see them, and
then returned to the house, perhaps a little envious ;
a little more thoughtful, more silent we certainly
were than usual, though this is not the first time
we have lived by ourselves. Really, these few
days have passed most agreeably.

The dinner was eaten in silence, and then we
read till ten o'clock, neither feeling in a mood for
conversation.

Soon after the party had gone, a snow-storm set
in. It had been cloudy all the morning, and snow-
ing to six A. M. There is a foot of light snow, the
largest quantity at any one time this month.

The day fine with little wind, and a temperature
of 25° in the sun and 5° in shade at two p. M. A
nearly clear sky above, the valleys clouded over at
sunrise. The clouds in the morning did not pre-
sent any remarkable features for this locality, but
from three to half-past four p. M., there was an ex-
tensive " sea of clouds." It extended from a point
sixty miles north, far as the ocean east, bounded
only by the horizon. This summit was alone above
the cloud. It was to the eye a frozen polar ocean,
here and there a lofty mountain of ice rising from

SHELTERED BY A ROCK. 195

the apparent dead level surface. The setting sun,
throwing a silvery light along the cloud, dispelled
the illusion. Perfectly clear overhead all day, — *
our sunny day contrasts strongly with the cold,
gloomy, cloudy one below. If we have much cloud
here, it is not always sunshine there.

There is a cosy spot which I visited to-day,
five minutes walk from the hotel in a southerly
direction. It is a large boulder, six or eight
feet high and as many wide, forming a perfect
wind-break. Light as the wind was, we were
chilled through while on the summit, but under the
shelter of this rock it was warm enough, and then
the outlook is one of the best.

The evening is calm, and it seems strange to
have so quiet a night, yet the change is appreciated
by us. A bright, starlight night. We have been
out to enjoy its beauty. These days and nights like
this are all too rare to lose one of them. The tel-
egrams are sent. S. gets one from Littleton,
who says, " cloudy here all day." Also one from
the Professor, reporting the party at Littleton this
morning. These, to us, important messages, we dis-
cuss as I write, and " guessing " as to the weather
for to-morrow, we close the day's labors and think
of retiring.

Tuesday, February 14. Relieving, in a large
measure, the monotony of mountain life in winter,

196 JOURNAL.

are cloud views. To-day we had in early morn-
ing a " sea of clouds," and later, the pleasure of
•watching and noting the progress of a storm. The
under current below the level of the summit, as it
came in from the ocean, and its advance westerly ;
far south the storm-cloud moving toward the north-
east, snowing over Lake Winnipiseogee two hours
before it did here, was a sight worth seeing. Some
idea of the grandeur of an advancing storm may
be obtained from a description ; but a clear concep-
tion of it, only by seeing it. Snowing at 5.30
p. M. Concord and Boston report " snow." S. has
had a long talk with each of these operators.

Had Hanover to-night. Professor Hitchcock, for
the Scientific Association, has taken by telegraph,
the pulsations, heart, and wrist, of the " members
resident." Wind southwest, not above fourteen ;
highest temperature 18° at two in the afternoon,
and 7° at seven in the evening. Barometer nearly
stationary.

Wednesday, February 15. The storm was but
for the night. Clear at seven in the mornino- ; tern-

o o y

perature 5°, and wind N.N.W. Fine ocean view
this morning. Northwest wind all day, rough but
not cold. Many and sudden changes of tempera-
ture, as for instance, at six in the evening 13°, and
nine o'clock, 20°. Littleton reports, " quite warm in
L. ; " we wish it might be here. Interesting cloud

SCIENTIFIC DISPATCH. 197

formations which I record elsewhere. A heavy
cloud lying low in the south to-night.

By request of Professor Hitchcock, we sent a
long despatch to the Dartmouth Scientific Asso-
ciation this evening. S. has had his hands full
to-night, sending and receiving more messages than
many regular offices do in two days.

Repairing the line to-day, he found a great depth
of snow a mile down the road.

Thursday, February 16. A storm of snow and
rain. It rains here with the thermometer at 22°, as
it did to-day, and snows with it at 30°, as might be
supposed. Why it should rain at 22° is hard to
explain. Wind steady, southwest through the day,
but at 8.20 evening, changed suddenly to north-
west, in gusts, sixty to eighty miles per hour. At
nine p. M., still snowing. Forgot to mention last
night, that at 6.30 P. M., I read from the " Atlantic "
in the open air. Our days are about forty-six min-
utes longer than they are at the sea-level. And
this reminds me of the gentleman in B., who ex-
pressed much sympathy for us on account of the
short days we should have, half an hour shorter, he
said. I accepted his expressions of commiseration
without trying to set him right as to the facts.

Neither S. or myself have written at all ; read an
hour or two, turned post-laundress for an hour,
doing my own washing — it is every one for himself

198 JOURNAL.

in this institution, — then I cut S.'s hair, which he
could not well do for himself, and so went the day.
But would not our friends make themselves merry,
especially our lady friends, to see us get a dinner, or
at the wash-tub, or playing the part of a tidy house-
keeper as we dust the parlor furniture and mantel
ornaments ! Ours is a queer style of living ; if we
have many pleasures which others know nothing of,
there are some deprivations and not a few hard-
ships to offset the advantages. We shall never
forget the grand, sublime, and beautiful scenes of
this place, and shall remember what living on
Mount Washington in winter means. It will have
a significance for us, if not for others. Littleton
sends us the news that four gentlemen are on their
way to Mount Washington ; does not say who
they are.

Friday, February 17. Blustering weather, that
is, only rough for Mount Washington, but would
pass for a gale down below.

About noon the expected visitors arrived. They
were favored in having the wind to help them, as a
southwest wind is the worse, one having to face it.

O

Northwest to-day. These gentlemen are Messrs.
Walter and Chas. L. Aiken, Geo. C. Procter, of
Franklin, New Hampshire, and Michael Mularvey,
of Marshfield, New Hampshire. They brought us a
large mail. Stopped to dinner, but returned to M.,

VISITORS. 199

instead of spending the night here, as we hoped
they would do. It was a disappointment to us, for
\ve had counted on keeping them over night.

Done nothing but write a few letters this evening.
It is calm or nearly so ; calm as it ever is here, —
never is quite that. The line is down somewhere.
A storm is brewing.

Tuesday, February 21. Have not written a
line for three days; or since Saturday, when we
had a tough snow-storm and a wind all day that
held us imprisoned much against the will of either,
S. because the line was clown, and I, from a de-
cided preference to out-door life. In the afternoon
and to a late hour in the evening we were busy
with household duties.

Sunday proved clear and calm, a bright sunny
day, yet the temperature was at no time higher than
8°. We had breakfast, then S. went out to repair
breaks in the cable and I sat down to my writing.
The line must be repaired as soon as possible after a
break, and if the first fair day is Sunday, as it hap-
pens to be this time, it becomes proper Sunday
labor. Then, what could I do better than to an-
swer some one or more of the dozen letters await-
ing replies ?

S. said when he left that he should not go far,
and should be in by one p. M. Did not come, but
two o'clock did. After taking the usual observations

200 JOURNAL.

I went down the railway. Found him at the Gulf
Tank. He had been hard at work since early morn-
ing ; the line was in an awful condition — broken in
nearly a hundred places.

Last Saturday night's gale must have been a
hurricane over that part of the mountain. Perhaps
it was worse here than we imagined, but we sleep
so soundly even in the heaviest gales, that the night
might have been one of the most tempestuous and
we wholly unconscious of the raging storm.

It was my first long walk since Christmas-week,
after which date I was confined to the house till
within a few days. Weary from the unwonted ex-
ercise, I sat awhile seeing him at work, then becom-
ing chilled I slowly made my way home. Found
the fires down and the house cold. S. came in
soon after hungry and tired, his feet half frozen and
fingers quite so. Tried to start a fire in the cook-
stove till our patience failed, and we voted ourselves
a cold dinner. Nor was it until bed-time that we
had raised the temperature of the room to anything
like comfort. Went to bed early — past ten o'clock,
for S. takes an observation at that hour, and we
always sit up as late as ten p. M., — and woke
Monday morning to find it cold and windy, with a
dense cloud on the mountain.

No work on the cable, though S. made one at-
tempt, contrary to my advice, and was driven back

CABLE AGAIN REPAIRED. 201

after going a short distance, — came in covered with
snow and frost. Writing to-day and when tired of
that smoked. The room has been warm, but it is
stinging cold outside. A fierce snow-storm all day.

This Tuesday morning we were out at day-
break. A cold morning, temperature at seven A.
M. — 8° ; the fires troubled us ; had a cold breakfast,
a warm one is a matter of the highest importance
to us.

Then S. went down to finish repairs, returning
at noon. Got off all delayed telegrams at two
p. M. He has labored under disadvantages, but
persistently, for ten hours.

Littleton says that Hanover has inquired for us
every day.

When S. left this morning the thermometer read
— 40 and wind 20 ; at the Gulf Tank it was so warm
he had to lay aside overcoat and gloves, — no wind
there, — the snow was melting and the water run-
ning down the centre rail ; quite a contrast to the
summit, yet only one mile distant, — meteorologically
speaking, he was 300 miles south of his mountain
home, though in sight of it.

After dinner laid in a large lot of ice, and then
we had some cooking to do. " Housework " done,
we took a walk. Fine weather, for a change.
Beautiful cloud-views this afternoon. Light, fleecy
clouds floating over Mount Monroe, dissolved before,

202 JOURNAL.

reaching Tuckerman's Ravine. They passed be-
tween us and the sun, showing the prismatic colors,
then as they rolled eastward gradually faded out
and changed to a cold gray. The transitions
of light and shade were inexpressibly beautiful,
enough to give sensations of pleasure to the dullest
observer and drive an artist crazy with delight.

The buildings are cased in ice and frost-work of
most elegant forms, resembling rocks, flowers,
leaves, shells, and the wings of birds. Some are in
Italian marble, others in alabaster. In another
place I have written out a description in full.

Wednesday, February 22. The only perfectly
clear day this month ; cool, the mean temperature
being but 1.7°. These clear days, and if nearly
calm, so much the better, are the chief attractions,
or rather among them, for cloud-views count in the
list. On such days even the most distant mountain
peaks are clearly outlined. Katahdin is to-day
plainly seen, as are some mountains in Canada as
distant. The view is not often good in a southerly
direction, — it is not to-day. The mountains be-
longing to this group show grandly in the bright
sunlight.

S. has been working on the line and I have spent
the day in writing. In such weather this is a
pleasant winter residence.

Anniversary of Washington's birth-day, and we

WASHINGTON'S BIRTH DAY. 203

had not thought of it until now ! We might have
raised our little flag in honor of the day ; it would
have been " quite the thing."

Thursday, February 23. A nearly clear day
here, but people below over a wide extent of coun-
try had a cloudy one. So much we had the advan-
tage over them. Highest temperature at nine p.
M. 23°, wind westerly, at no time higher that 45,
barometer 23.90, higher than for many days.

Writing for Work and Play, the most difficult
writing I ever tried my hand at, — prefer to write
for adult readers. As this is a very excellent
location for observation, one may fill pages daily
with notes, but it is the worst possible place to work
up anything fit for publication. There is so much
to see : now it is a wonderful cloud-view ; then
the summit is covered for a half hour, perhaps ;
next the sun shines, and we know that if we go out
some new revelation awaits us, a new surprise to
distract the attention from the work in hand.

This evening, the bright starlight tempted me
out. I did not propose to go far away from the
buildings, but the night was so clear, so calm, and
the stars shone with such brilliancy, I was induced
to extend my walk down the mountain in a south-
erly direction, till out of sight of home.

If any person is curious to know what solitude
means, to have a full realization of the term let

204 JOURNAL.

that one come here, and spend a half hour away
from sight or sound of the busy world, — make
himself believe for the nonce that he is the only
one human being on the mountain, and if he does
not confess that the word has a deeper meaning than
ever he had thought, he is either more or less than
human.

Friday, February 24. A dense cloud on the
mountain, so that indoors we had a twilight gloom
disappearing only for an hour in the afternoon. The
day was so spring-like that we did not stay in the
house. This morning I went down the railway to
look after the line, there is trouble with it again.
S. came down soon after, overtaking me at Lizzie
Bourne's monument.

As we could not leave the house unguarded, he
went further and I returned. Where he left me
the cloud was so dense that it was difficult to dis-
tinguish any object a short distance below. Yet he
passed out of the cloud into fair weather only a
little way lower down ; at the Gulf he entered
the cloud again and encountered a heavy rain.
Snow is melting and a thousand tiny rills are mak-
ing music on the mountain.

The wind southwest, and a soft April wind too.
This afternoon we had to go no farther than the
Glen stables to enjoy the warm sunshine, while here
it was chilly, cloudy, and damp.

WEATHER VARIABLE. 205

From nine A. M. to three p. M. the temperature
varied but a degree or two from 37° ; the barome-
ter steady.

Saturday, February 25. Dull and gloomy, for a
dense cloud rested on the mountain all day. Wind
74 at two p. M. It was fair at Littleton. In a day
like this one can read if he does nothing more.

O

Two or three days like this tend to make us think
of our daily life as being in the least possible degree
monotonous. One will do, but more become unen-
durable.

Sunday, February 26. A morning perfect as a
morning of winter can well be. Clouds in the val-
leys, the ocean visible for a long distance up and
down the coast and far out to sea. About nine A. M.
a heavy cloud commenced to move inland, one por-
tion of it moving up the Saco valley ; its progress
was so slow that it did not shut the Glen House in
till seven P. M. Heavy upper current southwest and
thick in the south. Wind west to two P. M., then
southwest and rising. The thermometer indicated
25° at two P. M.

The frost-work made last night has more the form
of feathers this time. If the snow and frost of the
summit was as uninteresting as that of the low-

O

lands, Mount Washington would lose one of its
greatest charms. What studies for an artist in the
various forms the frost-work presents ! I made a very

206 JOURNAL.

beautiful model for a vase of frost leaves, a day or
two ago, simply taking four leaves of equal size,
which were a little wider at the extremity than the
base, and slightly concave. A more exquisite de-
sign it would be hard to find in Nature's Book.

O

Monday, February 27. This time we are
favored with a rain-storm, pouring when it was
calm, and in driving sheets after the wind rose to the
agreeable rate of eighty-four miles per hour. At
nine A. M. it changed to snow, and then it was by
turns, rain for a moment, quickly changing to snow
and suddenly rain again ; but the snow obtained the
mastery. The barometer fluctuated as it often
does, falling in the afternoon.

We brought water from the spring this morning,
the first since some time in January, I think. The
wind was not so high as later in the day ; it was
getting water under difficulties, however. Shut in
all day, but we had enough to do to keep us busy ;
so although a disagreeable day the time did not
hang heavy on our hands.

Hanover telegraphs the welcome news of " Peace
in Europe," and also the pleasing intelligence that
Mr. Huntington is on his way to Mount Washing-
ton. We shall ply him with questions, S. says, for
we are wholly ignorant of what is transpiring out-
side our little world. Our labors are limited to a
few things done over and over day after day ; ob-

LETTERS FROM FAR AND NEAR. 207

servations on clouds, winds, and storms in addition,
which last vary from time to time ; our pleasures
and recreations consist almost solely in walks
around the narrow bounds of the summit, and in
reading. We find a pleasure in correspondence,
but our letters are one, two, three, sometimes four
weeks old when we get them. I lately received a
letter from England of the same date with one writ-
ten less than two hundred miles distant. Professor
H. has seen the world since we have and most as-
suredly will bring a full budget of news.

Tuesday, February 28. This is one of those days
which make us contented with our home. It cleared
off early in the morning. Wind from fifty to seventy
miles per hour. The mean temperature for this
day is 0 ; this cold weather combined with the high
wind compelled us to remain in the house. I took
the time for writing and did not go out at all until
four P. M., when I got in a very small quantity of
ice — the wind so strong that I lost the pail once,
and my foothold a dozen times. Not troubled by
" callers " to-day.

The frost-work is again fine and the house, if
not a marble palace, looks like a building fashioned
from purest marble, no part of the chains, wooden
braces, nor finish to be seen.

CHAPTER XIV.

JOURNAL COMPLETED.

March 1st.

T is spring at last, and how quickly the
winter has passed, though no more pleas-
antly to me than to the others. I had
thought, as is often the case under like circumstan-
ces, that time would rather drag. Welcome to the
spring ! — not that I am at all anxious to see May
1, for this is altogether too pleasant living here to
wish to have time pass rapidly, but spring-time is ever
welcome. Even Mount Washington, in spring, has
its own peculiar pleasure, it is presumable, as has the
" lower world." Snowing all day, quite a furious
storm even for this " home of storms." So we
write to-day. From early morning to three in the
afternoon, we had been at our work, when just as
the subject of dinner was up, we heard voices in the
outer room. It proved to be a party of whom we
had heard by telegraph — Mr. K. and Mr. Wilson,
editor of the "Philadelphia Photographer," and our
friend " Mike." They had a hard time coming up.
They brought a mail.

VIEW OF THE OCEAN. 209

March 2. All were out early to witness a sun-
rise of rare grandeur. The valleys were full of
clouds, and occasionally there would a cloud pass
over us driving rapidly over into the ravine.
Snowing all the afternoon. Our visitors left.

March 3. A storm seemed to be brewing last
night at a late hour, and early it came, — a heavy
rain-storm. Toward noon the wind rose, and at
one P. M. it blew ninety-six miles per hour. How
the wind roared in the flue ! How the house
shook ! Had to shout across the room to be heard.
It was grand, however. From four o'clock the wind
abated. At six p. M. S. and I went for water and
got wet through, — night calm.

March 4. A fine morning and warm. Had a
fine view of the ocean by aid of a telescope. This
glass was kindly loaned to us by a gentleman in
Boston, made by R. B. Tolles, and is a splendid one
for its size. Mr. S. went out to make some repairs
on the cable. Our fires work badly to-day ; no draft,
had a cold dinner. O, the trials of house-keeping 1
Think I shall board in future. After all, house-
work is not such an art as the ladies would have
us masculines believe. Made bread to-night, and
now — eleven p. M. — am waiting for the beans to
boil.

March 5. Dense clouds on the mountain in the

morning but clear in the afternoon. Looked for our
14

210 JOURNAL.

mail, thinking that some of our friends from Marsh-
field would be up, and when we heard voices outside
felt sure of it. Went to wait on them, found they
were from the Glen House, and had come up on the
carriage-road. Had two dogs with them, one an old
but fine specimen of the Newfoundland race, who
in his younger days had performed the responsible
duties of a mail-carrier between the Glen House
and Gorham, a distance of eight miles ; he was
completely used up. Treated both men and dogs to
a good dinner, and they started back at four P. M.

March 1th. A fair, blustering day. As we ex-
pected Professor H. we waited with our dinner
till three P. M. ; he arrived at four p. M., and
brought Dr. Rogers and Mr. Nutter of Lancaster,
N. H., with him. Spent the evening very pleasantly
reading our letters and papers.

March 9. Another day peculiar to Mount
Washington. All day the clouds have been driv-
ing over the summit. There would be times
when it was perfectly clear. Wind from forty to
fifty miles, and temperature as high as 43° in the
shade.

March 11. The morning was so fine that we
felt invited out. The rocks look charming in their
alpine-dress of beautiful, pale green, moss lichen.
The snow is nearly all gone. We were so fortu-
nate as to discover a fine bunch of Greenland

PROGRESS OF A STORM. 211

sanchvort, one in bloom. I took up some of each
for house-plants, that our parlor may boast its
winter-garden.

March 15. Many have been the magnificent
sunrises this winter, none more so than that of this
morning.. The day has been calm and nearly clear,
and along the north mountains are in view that
are not often seen, and some never before this
winter. Heard this morning the astonishing news
that New Hampshire has gone democratic.

March 16. Rainy much of the day and this
evening. Mr. H. and Mr. S. out repairing the
cable.

March 23. This morning there was a thick
stratum of clouds eastward, at a moderate eleva-
tion above the summit. By eight A. M. it was
qnite dense. At nine A. M. snow-squalls to the
northeast, and the clouds gradually settling in the
valleys ; eleven o'clock thick on the Carter Range ;
by twelve, clouds all about, except on the summit.
By two P. M. the mountain was in the clouds. The
formation — for I can call it nothing else — and
progress of the storm was very interesting. The
clouds were at a higher elevation than has gener-
ally been the case ; cirro-stratus ; color gray ; uni-
form in density nearly over the entire field of view.
Thick along the southeast, east, and northeast long
before it shut down elsewhere. Evidently the

212 JOURNAL.

lower current of wind was from the east, while the
wind on the summit was west-northwest. It was
two hours from the time the Carter Range snut in

o

before the summit was enveloped. The clouds
poured over Mount Adams, and later over the
dividing ridge between Mounts Washington and
Clay. They seemed to curve, as they passed over
these mountain tops, as though the upper currents
of air conformed to the irregularities of surface.
When there are two strata of clouds, they unite
before the snow or rain falls, as a rule, though to-
day snow fell an hour previous to the clouds set-
tling on the mountain.

~

March 31. A glorious sunrise. The Glen val-
ley was full of clouds, and further east heavy masses
of clouds covered the entire country as far as we
could see. In other directions the clouds were few.
As the sun shone over the clouds eastward, the dark
heavy masses were tipped with light of silver bright-
ness, while the borders were almost black, and the
sun shone brightly on the protruding mountain tops,
throwing deep purple shadows westward.

Saturday, April 1. What a change from last
night to this morning ; then, at nine p. M. wind
fifty, temperature 3° ; with every prospect for a cold
day to follow. The wind is westerly. Although
it is not above forty-nine, the cracking reports of
the joints of the frame are loud enough to shake

A CHARMING DAY. 213

weak nerves. Really they are startling, more so in
a comparative calm than when the wind is blowing
a gale.

These reports are never frequent in steady cold
nor settled warm weather. They occur oftener as
a cold term is changing to warm, and vice versa,
due in the one case to the expansion and in the
other to the contraction of the wood. Last evening
one was so heavy as to shake the house like a sud-
den gust in a storm.

To-day 64° in the sun at eleven A. M., after-
wards cooler, 15° at nine p. M. Thawing all day
in the sun, snow going rapidly. Thick along the
south and east all day. A northeast wind to-night,
seldom from that quarter. Light wind all day.
These are the days calculated, if any are, to make
us discontented, they so remind us of spring-time
— and here ?

Clough has had the good fortune to get several
fine negatives. S. and I stood for figures in two,
S. pointing to the icicles on the roof.

Monday, April 3. Another charming day. Clough
has gone to Littleton to return in a few days. S.
and I baked a chicken for our principal dish -on this
day's dinner bill of fare. Too fine this morning to
write, such a day is too rich in beautiful scenery to
waste time in-doors. Our luxuries are few : in our
larder, none ; neither are there any in parlor,

214 JOURNAL.

library, or bed-chamber — yes, one in the parlor, —
a cane-seat rocking-chair. No true-born Yankee
would think of housekeeping without one.

But beyond the confines of these four walls we
have choice tilings, in the grand scenery, cloud
painting, sunrises and sunsets, moonlight such as
is never seen but on mountain peaks.

After dinner we went to the Tip-top House ; the
view was magnificent. A soft haze over the whole
expanse of country far as we could see north and
south, east and west. Such is the atmosphere
here, that although the thermometer in the shade
marked 27°, I wore neither hat or coat, yet was
warm enough. So fine a day suppose I pull on
my boots and run down to Tuckerman's Ravine ?
But then the steeps are glare ice, and it would
be a rather hazardous undertaking; it might in-
volve a broken leg or neck, and then possibly in
either case, my companions would deem me an
incumbrance, which is a consideration of account.
How cozy ; what a home-like air our dark, nar-
row, meanly furnished .quarters have in a storm or
when the wind blows ninety miles an hour ; but in
such a day as this how like a prison-cell the place
looks !

Tuesday, April 4. All the forenoon till one p.
M. the summit was in a dense cloud. Suddenly it
lifted or passed off, and then we had the most gor-

THE NEW REPUBLIC. 215

geous display of cloud-scenes we have yet witnessed.
Eastward masses of cumuli rested over the valleys
and the mountains. Why not call them mountains
of cloud ? Certainly. They rose far above our
level, six thousand or perhaps eight thousand feet
higher than this peak ! They conformed to the
heights over which they lay and seemed to envelop
other mountains neai'ly as lofty as their upper limits.
The illusion was perfect, and Mount Washington,
in comparison, was a diminutive spur or outlying
peak of this great mountain range. Without ever
having seen the Alps I understood them better
for having seen these cloud mountains. In other
directions there were masses.

The sun runs high, but we know nothing of
spring. Truly it is more like winter than some of
the time in March. Then there was no snow, now
everywhere there is snow and ice.

Professor raised our little flag the other day on
the summit for the benefit of some friends in Lan-
caster. He has no design of establishing an inde-
pendent government, but S. and I have quietly
done so, and this banner floating from the top of the
mountain is that of the new Republic of Washing-
ton. We are getting along finely. We only lack
three things to make our new government a suc-
cess : a national debt, internal revenue, and two
custom-houses, one on the carriage road and the
other on the railway.

216 JOURNAL,

Wednesday^ April 5. The wind blew a gale
last night, — had just gone to bed when it com-
menced. The building had a heavy coating of ice
on the east side and tons on the roof. Soon as the
wind rose the ice began to fall. We were awake
when the grand crash came, at first a few pieces,
then with a roar like the stormy wind half of the
great body on the roof started, and falling made
everything tremble. The beds shook as in the
hurricane of February. If we had not known the
strength of the building — and severely it has been
tested, — we might have thought that the roof had
fallen in. It was startling to hear the roar and
crash, and there was not for a while much disposi-
tion to sleep.

All day there has been a furious storm of snow
— at one time wind 86 and temperature low as 2°.
Nine p. M. wind 60, and clear.

This afternoon we were surprised by the arrival
of Messrs. Clough and Cheney. They were some-
what frost-bitten, ears, fingers, and feet, and it was
doubtful, for a half hour, how badly. But now
they are all right, though their hands and ears are
considerably swollen. It is the toughest storm in
which any party has made the ascent this winter.

Professor H. pays no attention to the state of the
weather in making his many journeys up and down,
but he has never had a day quite so bad as this ; a

TUCKERM'AN'S RAVINE. 217

day like this, or worse, would not stop him if he had
arranged to make the trip.

Thursday, April 6. A clear sunrise — cold ;
only 3°, the wind 20, and the morning view that of
December. Though clear, the sun gave little heat,
— a pale, white, rayless light ; the sky a light blue,
and so clear that it seemed almost as though we
could see beyond its bounds, or through it into the
regions of space.

/Sunday, April 9. After a bean breakfast, a
party of four, Messrs. H., Andrews, Cheney, and
myself, went to Tuckerman's Ravine. Professor
led the way and took us to the head of the
ravine, where we saw the snow arch that is to be
in July, but now quite a stream poured over the
cliff. All but Professor took part in rolling stones
down the side of the ravine. We followed down
the ravine on the north side to a bold point of rocks,
some two hundred feet in height. Standing on this,
we had a fine view. The ravine looks much more
grand than it does from the side opposite ; and
one should see it from several points of view before
describing its claims to admiration. Hermit Lake
is breaking up, and we could see through the trees
the tiny stream which winds through the ravine
and loses itself in the forests below. Down the
mountain side, a thousand little rills, feeders of
mighty rivers, make sweet music, sweeter to my

218 JOURNAL.

ear from my long stay where there is only ice and
snow. Going down we had the pleasure of a little
slide on the snow, a quarter of a mile or less, long
enough, however. Coming up we had to climb, of
course. At noon, Messrs. Andrews, Clough, and
Cheney left for home.

Wednesday, April 12. A stormy day, snowing
much of the time, and the wind as high as 60.
Frost work forming again, and it really seems much
like winter. None of us cared to go far to-day, so
I got a pail of water from the spring near the house
and took a look at the frost-work ; that is all the
out-door exercise I have taken. Now we shall
have a plenty as long as we stay ; we get it from a
hole among the rocks and it is of excellent quality.
We have not really suffered from the want of water
at any time, but it has been rather rough sometimes
getting ice.

Saturday, April 15. The rule holds good, no two
days alike on Mount Washington. Professor called
us out to see the sunrise. Over Berlin and all the
country in that direction lay the most beautiful
cumuli clouds. The shadow of Mount Washington
was clearly outlined on the sky far above the hori-
zon, and we might imagine for the last three days —
while a dense cloud has covered the mountains and
hills — that an array of giants had been at work cut-
ting every mountain ridge into sharper outline,

SPLENDID CLOUD EFFECTS. 219

for they never before seemed to stand up chiseled so
sharply. Chocorua seemed miles nearer than usual,
resplendent in the bright sunlight. Through every
rift in the clouds the sides of the chain north showed
finely, while the summits were a blaze of light.

The Glen and shaded sides of Carter Range were
as dark as night, while just above the clouds were
gorgeous with the play of colors* Let a painter
throw as much light into a mountain view, or give
such tints to the clouds, and shade as deeply as
nature did in the picture she gave us this morning,
and everybody would say " exaggerated."

Ten hours we had splendid cloud effects in every
direction. Cumuli north, in every form beautiful
and fantastic, and colors as though some radiant
angel had thrown aside his robe of light.

But so much glory could not last, a cloud shut
down, and we were snow-bound and cloud envel-
oped the remainder of the day.

Wednesday, April 19. A splendid day; have
been to the station ; a rough road to travel, but took
the day for the trip. Dined at the lumber camp,
and got back at six o'clock. Took down mail and
brought some back, though little for myself. Not
in luck for once, — can stand it if my correspond-
ents can.

Wednesday, April 26. Professor Hitchcock, E.
C. Burbeck, and Alonzo Hall climbed the summit

220 JOURNAL.

to-day, bringing with them a bouquet of scarlet
geraniums and trailing arbutus, sent by a friend of
the Expedition.

Thursday, April 27. Went down the Crawford
bridle-path to Mount Monroe ; then crossed Bige-
low's lawn, and walked to Boott's Spur — not quite
to the extreme point. Saw a few birds ; couldn't
make them out — don't know if they cared whether
I did or not ; don't know as they had any curios-
ity to ascertain who or what I was. Too much
snow to find how the plants are coming on this
spring-like weather. Found willows at the head
of Tuckerman's ravine, showing their catkins half
opened. Reached the summit at two p. M., —
found S. down sick ; he has been ill since Sun-
day. Professor Hitchcock and Mr. Burbeck came
in at five o'clock, quite tired ; had been to Mount
Adams. Tough snow-storm to-night. Fine cloud
effects this afternoon, as there was in the morning.
Take morning views on hearsay, as I did not rise
till breakfast-time. The others rose at 5.30. I had
a fearful headache last night. Enjoyed my lonely
walk to-day, — monarch of all I surveyed. It seems
odd to see birds, while the adjacent peaks and
others beyond are covered with snow, and to feel
that it is really spring down in the world. Wind
at Boott's Spur, southeast, thirty miles per hour
when I left; here same direction, eighteen miles per

THAWING AND FREEZING. 221

hour, while at the same moment on their way from
Mount Adams Messrs. Hitchcock and Burbeck en-
countered the wind moving at the rate of forty or
fifty miles per hour.

Friday i April 28. Cloudy all day on the summit
and at times rainy. At four P. M. started down
the railroad expecting to meet Mr. Huntington
and Mr. Holden. Went as far as Gulf Tank;
encountered wind, rain, and sleet ; had to keep
in motion or freeze. Came back at 6.15, wet
and covered with ice. Went down again at seven,
sliding most of the way. When I reached the Tank,
the clouds passed off, but the storm was still raging
below ; had a magnificent view. To show the
changes in temperature here, in a few feet of alti-
tude, I note my trips down to-day and up as well.
Left the house at 4.30 p. M., wind thirty miles,
at the Lizzie Bourne monument forty, at the Gulf
House ruins and below, fully sixty, thus reversing
the order of things in regard to wind. Thermom-
eter on the summit 28° ; frost-work forming some
distance below the Monument. At the Gulf Tank,
when the sun came out, as it did several times, the
ice on my cap would thaw completely ; then while
the cloud was passing, icicles two inches in length
would form on the visor. It was difficult to walk or
even stand against the wind below the Gulf House
ruins. Returning, the wind was not so violent ; rain

222 JOURNAL.

as far as the plateau, where they collect water for the
engine in summer; mist on the summit, with tlier-

O * *

mometer 28° at 6.50. Went down again at seven
p. M., cloud to the head of the Gulf and thawing as
far as the tank, and water dropping from the trestle.
A dead calm all the way. Every appearance of a
rain-storm in the valley, probably as high as Waum-
bek, for at times the storm-cloud came up to the very
spot where I stood. The two H.'s did not arrive,
but night did, and I came back to the summit, quite
well satisfied with my last trip.

Saturday, April 29. One of the finest mornings
of the winter. At first a sea of clouds east and
northeast, later also on the west ; at seven A. M. in
every direction.

Professor Hitchcock and myself sat on the roof
of the Tip-top House. A luminous corona, showing
from one to three distinct circles with the prismatic
colors, was thrown upon the clouds around our
shadows. It was in some respects like the spectre
of the Brochen. In the afternoon the clouds cast
their shadows on the mountains and over the val-
leys ; of late this has been quite common, as the
cumuli assume summer forms.

Mr. Burbeck left this morning. Mr. Hun-
tington, L. L. Holden, and E. Thompson came up.
Mr. H. brought us all the late magazines, but no
letters. Had rain at depot last night and high
wind.

CORONA, SEEN APRIL 28.

The dark cone is shadow of observer with glory about the head. Ahore
the foreground is the slfadow of the mountain, while the large circle is the
colored prism or Corona resting on clouds, and partially obscuring the two
shadows.

"MAY MORNING." 223

The sable was out this morning, but did not stop
long to show himself. It is the first time I have seen
him. S. has seen two ; they look plump and hearty,
as though Mount Washington was a healthy cli-
mate for them.

Sunday, April 30. Snowing most of the time —
not a gleam of sunshine ; four inches of snow has fal-
len. Sunday passed much as Sundays do down in
the world when people don't go to church. We
have had the past month more clouds than sunshine,
more snow than rain ; light winds and few gales,
the clouds often dense on the summit when clear
below. Now only on the higher peaks, in the deep
ravines, and a few places on wooded slopes is there
snow.

Monday, May 1. A fine sunrise for " May morn-
ing." Clouds all about, and the summit was en-
veloped, but here it was thin so that the sunlight
streaming through gave the morning something the
aspect of the sunrise scene of March 1st, only that
was far more grand. This morning a sea of cloud
covered the whole extent of country, north and
south, east and west, Mount Washington alone ris-
ing above the aerial ocean. Over Mount Adams
the cloud was higher than the summit of Washing-
ton ; on the other side Tuckerman's Ravine looked
twice as prominent -as usual, and like the deep,
black gulf it is, when clouds overshadow it. The

224 JOURNAL.

lighter clouds passing between us and the sun threw
a twilight gloom over all, then as they sailed away
down the valley a golden flood of light diffused
itself over the mountain and cloudy sea below.
The misty clouds above were constantly changing
from gray to purple, and occasionally crimson tinged
their edges.

Mr. H. and Mr. Holden saw from the sum-
mit, westward, a corona, similar to that observed
by Professor Hitchcock and myself a few mornings
since. This morning there was the shadow of
Mount Washington on the clouds. It is a pleasing
spe'ctacle, but by no means so interesting as when
the mountain is shadowed on the eastern sky.
Beautiful frost-work formed last night ; even the
surface of the snow as well as rocks and build-
ings is covered with it. May-day, and still it is
winter ; every aspect is that of midwinter. The
spring near the Observatory remains frozen solid,
and so we daily melt ice for use, and yet down the
mountain a half mile there is seldom a day when
the streams are not running.

About one p. M. the clear sky disappeared and
clouds prevailed over sunshine the rest of the day,
— snowing at intervals through the afternoon, and
quite severely in the evening.

Prof. Hitchcock left for Hanover, at noon, before
the storm set in. Soon after he went a man from

A TRAMP TO THE RAVINES. 225

the depot came up with a message to transmit to
Franklin, N. H. Good for the Mount Washington
office, that people should come to this far-away
place to communicate with the world ! Our visitor
reports a heavy rain at Marshfield yesterday.

Tuesday, May 2. A wintry sunrise scene, then
clouds on the mountains, passing off at noon. Tak-
ing advantage of the day, Mr. Holden and myself
set out for Tuckerman's. Found more snow than
on the 9th ult. Sunlight, bright and warm there,
but over Washington a dense cloud most of the after-
noon. The air spring-like, as were the surround-
ings ; little snow except at the head of the Ravine,
where the arch will be looked for in vain next sum-
mer, unless May makes up for the short-comings of
winter. Hermit Lake really breaking up, and the
stream <5pen above. We could see the pretty cas-
cade some distance above the lake and hear the
rushing waters, now loudly, as the wind arose, now
softly murmuring as it fell. Half way down the
northern side, under a sheltering rock, we lunched
on hard-tack and sugar, drinking the pure water of
a little rill which ran down among the rocks. Then
for an hour we climbed the crags, getting views from
many different points. Found fine specimens of
mosses and secured a few specimens of insects, two
of which were the more interesting, as they were
new to me. Came away at three p. M., too early

15

226 JOURNAL.

to go home, so decided on a trip to the northeastern
spur of Washington. Passed a deep spring of ex-
cellent water which in my jaunts I had never seen,
then visited the ravine beyond, — our first visit.
In some respects this is even more interesting than
Tuckerman's, for what is lacking in extent is made
up in the boldness of outline, its steep, sloping
northern side and sheer precipice of two hundred
feet or more on the south. Seven seconds was the
time taken, by repeated trials, for a stone to reach
the bottom. Professor says that it bears no name.
We propose that Huntingtoris Ravine shall be its
future designation. A " thousand rills " run down
its western side — the head, — joining in forming
a stream below. Away, among the wood, half a
mile perhaps, the rushing sound of a cascade was
distinctly heard. Professor says that it is. a very
beautiful fall, and scarcely ever visited. This ravine
is worth exploring.

Went to the extreme point of the spur, — Mount
Washington summit. The Glen and Great Gulf
are all well seen from this point. Home at five p.
M., much of the way through a cloud, satisfied with
our rambles on the mountain.

Prof. Hitchcock telegraphs his arrival at Littleton.

Temperature at seven p. M. 26°. A dense,
black cloud lying along the south indicates a storm
not far distant.

BIRDS IN THE HOUSE. 227

Wednesday, May 3. Snowing all night and cloudy
all day, — a dull, quiet day, more disagreeable than
the fiercest storm. We have all spoiled much good
paper to-day, — Professor, Holden, Thompson, and
myself. Mr. Smith sick, seems no better ; a rough
place to be sick, in — safe from the doctors, he has
that comfort !

At 5.30 P. M. we — Professor and I — got in a
supply of ice. At the time, the cloud was so dense
that from the Tip-top House the Observatory could
not be seen ; fifteen minutes later the cloud passed off
and there was a most magnificent outlook. Below,
an ocean of cloud, calm and unruffled as an inland
lake ; above, but quite low, the upper current of
storm-cloud ; far away north, a line of clear sky ;
south, heavy masses of cloud shutting out the dis-
tance. We could mark the line of a storm bearing
down upon this section, a grand sight. At nine
p. M. snowing.

Thursday, May 4. Another tough snow-storm ;
we enjoy it ; might as well find pleasure in it,
for endure these frequent changes we must if not
enjoy them. One fine day is full compensation for
a week of stormy wintry weather, and then, what
did we come here for but to study storms ? Wind
got up to 48 and temperature down to 21°.

One pair of birds have made the house their
home of late. To-day especially they have hardly

228 JOURNAL.

been out. This afternoon they have sung several
songs for our benefit. They are quite tame. To-
night they sit on the beam over this room close by
the flue, and we can occasionally hear them twitter,
softly calling to each other.

Prof. Hitchcock reports by telegraph, rain at
Hanover all day. Now, ten p. M., the storm is
increasing in fury and really might almost rank
with those of last December.

Professor and Mr. H. were out this morning
at 4.30 ; had a rare sunrise to repay them for ris-
ing at so unseasonable an hour ; the rest of us pre-
ferred our morning nap, so we only had the storm,
for the cloud shut down at six o'clock.

Friday, May 5. The storm- — snowing in such
a wintry way last night — turned to rain toward
morning and has been rainy all day. About seven
p. M. the cloud lifted, settled, or dissipated, — cannot
say which as I was not out at the time. Then we
had a grand sea of cloud — a display we never tire
of, — north and west far as the horizon, south for
nearly an hundred miles, and east quite to central
Maine. Excepting Lafayette and Adams, and a bit
of the Saco valley, the whole country was befogged.
The upper strata of clouds were mixed in the most
confused manner; it would have puzzled Espy to
have given them names, and for that matter names
were of little consequence, for the coloring was

A SEA OF CLOUDS. 229

that which gave them the greatest interest in our
eyes. I did, however, write out in its proper
place a dry description ; the colors and shades
ran through the list ; such changes, such inter-
mingling of colors, the brilliancy, the delicacy,
was beyond belief. The time 7.30. Then there
was repeated, on the dull, cold, gray clouds below,
the changing hues of the higher clouds, from a
pearly whiteness to rose, fading out to gray, not
once^ but several times, the last lingering beams
slowly dying away into the blackness of night.
As late as eight o'clock, after the stars could be
seen in the east, the lower clouds retained some
color.

The wind was west here, not higher than five,
yet in the valleys it must have been much stronger,
judging by the velocity of the clouds ; besides we
could hear distinctly its almost roar. While west
the clouds had a rapid movement, over Ellis River
they were stationary.

S. has been ill to-day. T.'s lame foot is better,
and everything in our little world has moved in
the usual regular course. To-morrow, if fair, some
of us go to Mount Adams. The mountains are
covered with snow. Surely, it cannot yet be
spring !

Saturday, May 6. Mr. Holden and myself
have made that long contemplated trip to Mount

230 JOURNAL.

Adams. Just what object we had in going I can-
not say, neither can he tell, for when I put the
question to him as we were toiling up one of the
ngly steeps of Mount Jefferson on our homeward
way, he said — nothing. So I am confident that
he had nothing to say.

This is the only explanation I can give, as I sit
here to-night, foot-sore, wet, and weary, with the
day's tramp fresh in mind : Mount Adams, in the
majestic style he has been wearing for the past
week, while we have made our minor tours around
the ravines of this mountain, seemed to defy us ;
and so without unnecessary delay we were deter-
mined to dine or lunch the first fair day on Mount
Adams. Then, Prof. Hitchcock and Mr. Burbeck
had paid the old fellow a visit, — the first persons,
probably, who ever made the trip in April, and if
they were the first visitors of this season, there
was no reason why we should not be the second
party.

This morning was one of the best for the in-
tended journey, — clear, calm, and warm. The
thermometer at eight o'clock indicated 85° in the
sun, — warmest morning this spring. Though clear
above, the valleys were full of cloud ; we did not
fear to be clouded in, as we had a compass. Filling
our pockets with hard-tack and taking a canteen
for water, at about nine o'clock we started. The

MOUNT ADAMS. 231

wind was northwest here ; at the foot of Mount
Clay it was east and chilling. So far the walking
was excellent, the snow hard as ice. There we
stood, on the level of the clouds to the west and
above those east. Skirting along the east side of
the first peak of Clay we made slow progress.
While resting, the clouds settled in the Gulf, and
we had a good point from which to get a clear idea
of the immensity of the mountain — Washington, —
and of the -depth and breadth of the Gulf. As the
distance is short, visitors ascending the mountain
might find themselves well repaid if they would
not only view the Gulf from the head, which is
a very advantageous position, but also from Mount
Adams, — so we agreed as we sat there. Going
to the highest point of the dividing ridge of Clay
and Jefferson, we could hear on the one side the
rushing, roaring sound of the falls in the Gulf and
the smoother flow of Jefferson brook on the other.
We could see nothing, as all below was covered by
clouds.

In places the mountain side was free from snow, in
others the snow was many feet deep. On the more
level places it was thawing, and before we reached
the base of Jefferson our boots were thoroughly
soaked. Climbing Jefferson we rested, and while so
doing amused ourselves in building our monument
in case we should perish on the way. At the sum-

232 JOURNAL.

mit we found the wind to be northwest, as we after-
wards found it on Mount Adams, while both going
over and returning it was easterly at lower levels.

There we saw that Lafayette was under a cloud,
and that on the west the great body of cloud had
risen nearly to the summit of Washington. I have
been here long enough to learn that when Wash-
ington is enveloped, it means a cloudy day for
Mount Adams. While debating whether to go on
or give up the trip, a dense and extended body of
cloud passed between us and Adams, and this de-
cided us to push on. Down the steep eastern
side of Jeiferson in sunshine is bad enough, in the
twilight gloom of a dense, damp cloud, that wets
one as though he had been immersed in an ice
chilled bath, it is anything but agreeable. But
the cloud passing, we were so fortunate as to reach
the head of the ravine between Jefferson and
Adams just in time to get a good view of its huge
dimensions. There we could almost see, under the
cloud, the forest at the foot of the mountains. Again
the cloud shut in and we went on.

And now our tramp was over the dwarf trees —
we took the south side of the ridge — and through
the snow, sometimes waist-deep, always over our
boot-tops. Coming out of the cloud once more, and
for the last time, we saw the lofty summit of Mount
Washington, then far above the clouds, and we

IMMENSITY OF WASHINGTON. 233

heard the cheers of our comrades at the Observa-
tory. We could hardly credit our ears} for it is
nearly or quite three and a half miles in an air line
from point to point. But the successive cheers
came to us so clearly that we could doubt no longer,
and then we sent back an answering shout. How
hot it was under the shelter of the mountain-side !
not a puff of wind, but plenty of ice-cold water, and
of that we drank freely. Adams seemed miles away,
and the harder we toiled the less near seemed the
goal. Half a mile of this weary work over the
snowy plateau, and we began to climb the rocks
again, — this was easy compared with plunging
through the snow, — and resting often, we, at one
P. M., gained the summit. To repay for our long
walk, we saw a sea of cloud that we might have
seen without going a rod from the door, if we had
been content to stay at home.

But we had something which we cannot have on
Mount Washington, — an idea of the immensity of
the monarch himself — the grandeur, the overshad-
owing majesty of this king among kingly mountains.
This view alone was worth all the day's toil. I
have seen Washington from several points ; this I
deem the best.

A gentle summer breeze played about the peak
and the sun shone bright above, but beyond the
narrow limits of the mountains, the cloud rested
everywhere.

234 JOURNAL.

About two o'clock we saw by the increasing vol-
ume of cloud that we were likely to be forced to
find our road back by the aid of the compass, and
unwillingly we turned our faces homeward. Going
down we remembered the advice of Professor
Hitchcock, to keep the height of land, and doing
so made an easy descent.

At the base of Jefferson again encountered a
dense cloud, which came along just in time to catch
us. Didn't Jefferson loom twice as high for our
weariness — twice as high as the measurements
make it ? It did ; but an hour's toil, and we stood
on the summit, then far above the cloud. Adams
showed only the highest point, and elsewhere all
was in cloud ; even for a time Washington was hid-
den. And then the downward way to the peaks
of Clay — three in the morning — thirty we thought
before we crossed the last and stood facing our
summit home ; and how lost in the cloud as the last
height of Clay deceiving us, we supposed it to be
our own Mount Washington ; shall we ever for-
get these and the incidents of the day? Think
not — not soon. That glorious lighting up of the
western sky as the sun went down — the moment
when sky and cloud became so intermingled and
the whole was like a sea of molten gold reflected
on a sky of crimson, blue, and gold ; and the closing
scene the Battle of the Clouds, when east and west

EXCITEMENTS OF LIFE. 235

met over the ridge of Clay, and darting sharp flashes
of electric fire from one to the other, then closing,
the west drove back the east — a grand finale to
so gorgeous a sunset.

We found on reaching home that the members
of the party here had seen us through the Tolles
and Army telescopes much of the day ; saw us
raise our flag on Adams ; saw us as we lunched ; and
in fact knew our every movement, whenever the
clouds permitted them to see us. They did not
claim to have overheard our conversation — it is a
wonder they did not, possessing such excellent tele-
scopes !

They were out watching for us, and, as we came
up the track, greeted us with congratulations. We
have narrated to them our adventures, trifling as
they are, and they have related the doings on the
summit the livelong day ; the sudden changes of rel-
ative humidity ; that the temperature was 56° at one
time ; and how they all have spent the day : these
little things make the excitements of life on Mount
Washington, insignificant as they may appear to
the world outside our circle. Found many insects,
even on the summit of Adams.

I am going to bed to dream of falling down the
snow-slide at the head of the Gulf, which little feat
I might have performed but for the greater caution
of my friend Holden.

236 JOURNAL.

I must add one item. H. and myself have passed
judgment on the mountains we visited to-day.
Briefly it is, that Clay is a blunder — a failure as a
mountain — the whole family of Clay being repre-
sented in its many yet useless peaks — useless for
any purpose but to worry the toiling traveler ; that
Jefferson is well worth a visit, and Adams, above all,
grand. The whole route is interesting for its wild
scenery, often rising to the sublime. Bold cliffs,
deep ravines, high rocks and beetling crags, cozy
nooks and places where the sun never sends a
beam. Now, 10.30 P. M., it is raining ; what a
country !

Sunday, May 7. The barometer fell 50-100ths
from last night at nine o'clock to this morning at
seven o'clock. Wind rising at three A. M., reaching
the highest velocity at two p. M., which was 67 ;
highest recorded for some time, quite strongly re-
minding us of the winter months. Snowing all
day ; the whirling, driving clouds of snow made it
far from pleasant to stay out for three minutes,
the time occupied in taking the force of the wind.
Mr. Holden had that honor conferred more than
once upon him.

At five P. M. the cloud passed off and we could
see that not the mountains alone, but the lower
country as well, was " snow-bound." At 9.40

A QUIET SUNDAY. 237

p. M., snowing again. Temperature, two p. M., 21°
highest for the day; and 19°, at nine p. M.

No church-bells rang out for us the call to morn-
ing service. Really, now I write of church-bells
ringing for Sunday service, it strikes my fancy that
I should enjoy hearing them ; since the 19th De-
cember I have not heard them — may not for a
month to come.

As there was no church-going for us, H. and I
slept late, and rose tired and lame from the ten-
mile tramp of yesterday. Ten miles ! if properly
distributed, they would make fifty on a decent road !

Littleton reported, at 4.30 p. M., that it had
been rainy, but was clearing away.

Nine p. M. We have had a quiet Sunday in-
doors ; anything but that outside now ; none of
the family have attended church, nor have we had
callers. We have passed the day in reading. The
wind is higher than an hour ago and we may get a
rough night.

Monday, May 8. We did have a rough night,
called the wind 80 at midnight. Of course there
was considerable pressure on the house, and the re-
sultant creaking and cracking of the building, the
jarring and rocking, were all very creditable for a
May storm.

Temperature, seven A. M., 15°. Professor found
the wind-vane, it was carried away last night by

238 JOURNAL.

the spindle breaking — a quarter-inch rod. The
wind last night was at no time below 60, and as high
much of the time to-day ; since three p. M. rising,
and the barometer rapidly falling ; at two P. M. it
was 23.035, the lowest for some weeks. At two
p. M. temperature 18° and wind 62. Ten p. M., snow-
ing, and wind more moderate. The frost-work is
heavy and fine ; on the house it points in every
conceivable direction, showing that it was formed in
the eddies, and of course against the wind.

None on the sick-list to-day. Holden is embar-
goed but manages to make himself comfortable.
The Handel and Haydn Society will have to excuse
him to-morrow night. He could not desert if he
would, and I do not think he will try it, to-night at
least.

A wild-cat was here last night ; did not come
in, but contented himself with caterwauling outside
the premises. It might, possibly, have thought it
was paying us a high compliment in so vigorous
an exhibition of its musical powers ; if so, never a
more mistaken puss. More likely there was a dis-
pute between Master Sable, whom we consider one
of our party, and said feline as to the right of way,
or for the ownership of a poor little mouse. H.
and I saw their tracks Saturday, just below th&
summit ; we have seen them before, but more gen
erally since May came in.

FROST WORK. 239

Tuesday, May 9. Clouds off and on till five
p. M., when they disappeared entirely. The wind
fell away towards midnight, and has been steady
to-day at about 35, though now, nine p. M., nearly
cairn. Wind northwest all day ; it may storm by
tomorrow.

Mountain peaks white as winter, but the valleys
are bare — even at the Glen House there is no
snow. A fine aurora to-night — arch, without dark
underlying cloud or streamers.

And the frost-work has seldom been more beau-
tiful. Thompson and I measured some feathers
to-day. On a tall pole at the Tip-top House, found
them thirty-six inches in length, and on a rock
south of the house, forty-nine in length and fifteen
broad. This last formation is very beautiful, but
does not present such varied shapes as during the
winter and last month. Yet there has never been
the time when the trestle of the railway just below
the observatory, or the Bourne monument, gave a
better idea of the exceeding beauty of the finer
specimens of this most charming feature of the win-
ter scenery of the mountains. They might be pure,
solid frost-work, for all one can see of either wood
or stone.

Messrs. Holden and Thompson left this afternoon
at one o'clock. Both S. and myself have been on
the sick-list to-day.

240 JOURNAL.

Our birds have been merry to-day ; they sing
sweetly and appear to enjoy these comfortable quar-
ters like sensible birds as they are. They do not
think of venturing out during storms or when the
weather is at all inclement. Monday night one of
these birds roomed with us, making the anemome-
ter its perch ; seemed perfectly at home after it
had concluded to stay.

This morning was fine, pleasant, nothing remark-
able about it, unless to see the sun once more was
an event worth recording, and most assuredly, we
shall soon begin to think even a clear sunrise to be
quite an event ; for " cloud on the mountain," is
the almost daily entry in the Register. And so after
all the fine morning it commenced to snow at 9
o'clock, and continued to all day at intervals, and
we had the usual amount of cloud.

Professor found to-day some beautiful frost- wings ;
just as perfect in form and feathering as a real
wing ; they were very beautiful indeed.

Thursday, May 11. A wintry sky and winter
scenery this morning ; the sky a pale blue and the
sunshine that of December. The clouds presented
an infinite variety .of shades — gray, brown, and
dingy black; distant mountains showed clear-cut
outlines ; snowy peaks of the higher mountains glis-
ten in the morning light. Looking beyond them
we see a change ; the Androscoggin is broader and

A RARE EVENING. 241

its waters sparkle in the play of sunlight ; the val-
leys are bare and brown. Last winter the river
was a silver thread, the lowlands white as are these
summits now. Only these differences between a
pleasant morning last December and this. 20° at
seven A. M.

Soon the clouds settled down and we were shut
in the remainder of the day till near sunset. Then
the sun tried to throw a little glow over the scene,
but miserably failed and angrily went to bed — the
clouds, though broken, were too dense.

Later in the evening it was clear, and the stars
shone brilliantly ; starlight on the mountain is not
the passionless thing it is below the clouds. A
rare, rare evening.

Mr. Huntington expects to leave us soon. How
quickly the winter has passed spite of storms, hur-
ricanes, and clouds — of discomfort, and rather hard
fare and the many deprivations. S. is still far from
well. To endure, without suffering in some re-
spect, the sudden changes of weather, one needs
an iron constitution ; and any one that stays here
should have a will equally as strong. It is hard
on an invalid — I can bear testimony to that.

Temperature 27° at two p. M. and the same at
nine p. M.

Friday, May 12. A sunrise bright and fair as
ever poet raved about or painter dreamed. And

16

242 JOURNAL.

the day was lovely simply because it was spring-like ;
the sunset charming. Half an hour before sunset
a crimson glow came creeping out of the west and
diffused itself over the broad expanse of country
north. Mount Washington was under the shadow
of the heavy upper stratum of cloud, but the crim-
son light resting on mountains and valleys, lakes
and rivers, below and far across the Canada border,
so nearly touched Mount Washington that its
southern bounds were within twenty miles. Later,
the crimson was followed by broad bands of varying
brown and purple, the shades constantly changing,
and finally, as the .sun went down, all color faded
into gray. The south lay under a dense, black
cloud; in the east was the darkness of night, in-
tensely deep, the gloom the more from contrast
with the radiant west. In the evening an interest-
ing auroral display — streamers with a dark under-
lying cloud broken on its upper edge.

The last Press telegram goes to-night. Nor
shall we any longer have pleasant evening chats
with Professor Hitchcock at Hanover. S. is at the
depot to-night, and the telegraph has no word for
us.

Professor and I writing all day ; wished much
to take a walk, but were unable.

Saturday, May 13. A really fine sunrise — but
here it does not follow by any means that the day

HUNTINGTON LEAVES. 243

will prove the same, and so about nine A. M. there
were " clouds on the mountain " and snow- squalls
much of the time afterwards. The wind worked
up to 50 at 10.30 P. M., when we concluded to let it
blow, as we could not prevent it so doing, and now
we are going to bed.

Well, if the half-dozen almanacs on the shelf
did not say that it was May we might think we
had missed one of the winter months. How the
wind howls — charming for " merrie month of
May!"

If Thomson — the poet I mean — not my friend
T., who is not a poet — were here to-night he
would sing another strain than —

" Forth fly the tepid airs ; and unconfined,
Unbinding earth, the moving softness strays."

Not a bit of it. But this is the climate of Lab-
rador, and there is no reason to find fault with it —
a most excellent climate too — of its kind.

Sunday, May 14. The wind was high as 80, if
not higher, during the night. All day, as usual, it
has been cloudy, and frost-work forming. Tem-
perature at seven A. M. was 11°, and highest for the
day at nine P. M., 21°. At no time the wind
lower than 46. Mr. Huntington left at nine A. M.
in the face of a forty-eight mile gale and the tem-
perature only 14°. I am anxious for his safety and
shall be till S. returns.

244 JOURNAL.

To-night, for the first time, I am keeping " watch
and ward " on the mountain top alone. Am rather
pleased with the novelty of the situation ; and quite
enjoy the gale. I have been listening to winds and
studying the many different sounds. There is the
uninterrupted rumble of the wind and click and
creak of the frame of the building more particu-
larly noticeable in the outer room. As heard here
it is like the sound of factory machinery as one may
hear it on a summer's day, at a distance. The
windows and boarding as they give and rebound
creak intermittently. Without are the chains clank-
ing, thumping, and rattling, sometimes sounding like
a ship's cable running out in casting anchor. When
the wind blows steadily it gives the building a rock-
ing motion ; eddying, it converts the vibratory to a
jarring action. Now scarcely audible, its sound is
that of summer breeze, a gentle murmur ; now husky
and muffled as the wind which precedes the storm,
now high-sounding and clamorous, it rises and
gives the house a violent shaking, bringing out
clearly its every creak and groan from the strain-
ing frame ; the walls give back a dull booming, like
distant artillery practice, as they rebound when the
wind lets go its hold. Now it dies away into a soft
whisper and for a few minutes there is a lull — a
dead calm more disagreeable in its death-like still-
ness than the roar and howl of the hurricane in its
"ercest anger.

CONCLUSION. 245

And this night's gale is similar to the heavy ones,
the hurricanes, differing only in the greater force
of those.

As I sit here to-night I do not feel as though I
was alone ; admit to a slight degree of sadness as I
saw Mr. Huntington go out into the storm. I had
so much anxiety on his account — that perhaps pre-
vented my thinking much about this parting being
final so far as Mount Washington is concerned.

I have wished that my bird-companions would
sing a little song, but it is too cold. They appear
to be very comfortable and contented. When I go
into their room, they seem glad to see me and give
an answering chirp to my greetings.

The wind now is about 50 or 55. I have made
the last observation, and am going to bed to sleep
just as soundly as though there were a half-dozen
good fellows to keep me company.

CONCLUSION.

The winter's work is done. We trust that has
not been time and labor lost. Storms of unpar-
alleled severity, when for days in succession the
summit was enveloped in clouds and the hurricanes
lasted longer and were more violent than any yet
recorded in the United States, together with very
low temperatures, have been a part of our experi-
ence.

246 JOURNAL.

Just such an experience has seldom before been
the lot of human beings. Though interesting, these
grand atmospheric disturbances are not the most
enjoyable features of mountain life.

And ours has been the good fortune to witness
some of the most magnificent winter scenery upon
which mortal eyes ever rested ; scenery of tran-
scendent grandeur, and views surpassingly beau-
tiful.

There were mornings when the atmosphere was
so transparent and the sky so pure a blue, with not
a fleck of cloud, the snowy mountain-peaks so daz-
zlingly white, their forms so clearly outlined and
standing up in such bold relief, that they seemed
the creation of yesterday ; and mornings when
earth and sky, forests, lakes, and rivers, and the
clouds above wore a radiance and richness of color
never seen in other than mountain regions and
from the loftiest elevations.

There were days when the shifting views of each
hour furnished new wonders and new beauties, in
the play of sunlight and changing cloud-forms, every
hour a picture in itself and perfect in details. Sun-
sets, too, when an ocean of cloud surrounded this
island-like summit, the only one of all the many
high peaks visible above the cloud billows, all else
of earth hidden from sight ; there were times when
this aerial sea was burnished silver, smooth and

CHANGE OF SCENE. 247

calm, and times when its tossing waves were tipped
with crimson and golden fire.

There were mornings and evenings and whole
days when the winds were hushed and a soft haze
rested over everything, making the distant out-look
much like that of summer.

Although our situation has been very much an
isolated one, and the area of our little world lim-
ited, our daily life has not been without incident or
void of interest, to us at least. But now, our work
being done, we go down to the busy world once
more. And though we look forward to the change
with anticipations of pleasure, we shall half-regret-
fully turn our backs upon this majestic old moun-
tain whose cloud-enveloped summit has so long been
our home.

The days of canned-beef, " hard-tack," and coffee
will soon be counted among the things of the past.
Gone are the long days and longer nights when the
stoves failed to comfortably warm the little room,
though we kept them at a red heat, and when the
thermometer indicated 65° near the stove, and 4°
at the floor ten feet distant. So are the long pe-
riods when we received no news from below the
clouds, and the longer weeks when no visitor could
think of making our quarters his temporary home.

Days of storm and gloom and piercing cold ;
times when the line is down and we are then as

248 JOURNAL.

effectually cut off from communication with man-
kind as if we were dwellers on another planet, —
these are days never to be forgotten. And there
have been those days which we shall ever remem-
ber for their splendors, and beautiful ones that
seemed more of heaven than earth, and nights
which made the complement of such days.

A party of three brought into so close relations
as we were, incur the risk of finding each other dis-
agreeable companions, especially where, as in this
case, they happened to be entire strangers. Our
intercourse has ever been pleasant. It is doubtful
if three coming together by chance, often find their
tastes and sympathies so generally in harmony.

Having an equal interest in the work, and feeling
our situation to be one where we were mutually
dependent for help in sickness, for our pleasures,
for companionship, for everything that made our
isolated life endurable, we have passed the winter
pleasantly.

Though less intimately connected with us, we
consider the other members of the party as belong-
ing to the Observatory, and we shall ever remember
with pleasure the happy days spent in their society.

The larger part of the time there was telegraphic
communication with Littleton, and this had a ten-
dency to make us more contented than we should
otherwise have been. Triweekly the line was con-

THE TELEGRAPH. 249

nected with the private office of Professor Hitchcock
at Hanover, and daily with L. Through the kind
offices of the operator at L., Mr. Currier, who has
been very obliging, and the thoughtfulness of Pro-
fessor Hitchcock, we received both foreign and
home news. Reading telegraphic news from Paris,
as soon as people in the seaboard cities, was not an
uncommon occurrence. News thus received has a
flavor to it that people who have the daily papers
cannot appreciate.

In closing, I would remark that this Journal was
never intended for publication, being merely daily
notes for future reference ; hence its imperfections.
I have culled from each day's recorcf such portions
as seemed most suitable for this work. Meteoro-
logical notes are generally omitted for the reason
that the subject is fully treated in other chapters.

Long descriptions of scenery for like cause are
not given. To me, my journal is a portfolio of
sketches, and these pen jottings faithfully picture
the scenes I have witnessed, however much they
may lack expression to those who have not seen
these or similar scenes.

The record of our daily life has rarely been
transferred to these pages, in fact but little of it re-
corded. Its trials and vexations and petty cares
are so very like those of any family living under
civilized rules and governed by the customs bred of

250 JOURNAL.

habit, which even living on a mountain in winter
one does not willingly give up, — they are so like
these, that the mistress of any household in the
land may with safety exercise the Yankee privi-
lege of " guessing," with the assurance that she
cannot guess far from the truth.

In making the selections I have aimed to give
the reader some idea of what mountain scenery in
winter is, and also what life on the mountain is, from
our daily experience.

My wish is that every one so desiring might
see something of the winter scenery of the
mountains. May the day be not far distant when a
hotel shall be maintained here in winter as well as
in summer !

CHAPTER XV.

MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY.

AVING made a visit to the scientific party
on Mount Washington early in February,
I was desirous of looking in upon them
again sometime about the incoming of the " merrie
month of May," when the rigors of winter were
supposed, in the lower world, at least, to have
melted before the blandness of spring. With this
end in .view, I set out from Boston, Thursday,
April 27. It was a bright, sunny, genial morning,
filled with the joyful promises of the summer soon
to come. The workers in the fields had thrown off
their coats while following the plough, and the pas-
sengers were content to admit the pure, bracing air
through the open car windows. It seemed impos-
sible that a single day's journey could bring forth
the slightest reminder of winter, now long past and
gone. Any one who has taken the railroad ride
from Boston mountainward, through Lowell and up
the Merrimac valley to Concord, and thence over
the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad, need

252 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY.

not be told of the delights of the journey. For
miles one is borne along the banks of the broad,
swelling Merrimac, amid scenes of peaceful beauty,
with brief halts at the busy marts which have
sprung up here and there by its side. By noon the
shores of the broad and beautiful Lake Winnipi-
seogee are reached, and across its fair expanse we
catch some glorious glimpses of the lower ranges of
mountains. Farther northward we join the Pemi-
gewasset and Baker's Rivers and are soon ushered
into the presence of some of the noble hills which
form the western outposts of the Franconia range.
Emerging from among these, we strike across to the
banks of the Connecticut, in the seemingly bound-
less town of Haverhill, and after gaining the en-
chanting view which opens for a long distance
southward, once more seek the companionship of
the hills by winding along the course of the swift
gliding Ammonoosuc, almost to the heart of the
great mountains themselves. The journey is at all
times enjoyable, and especially so was it at this
time, when the clear spring atmosphere gave even to
far distant objects great distinctness. At Manches-
ter I was joined by Professor Huntington, who had
come down from the mountain a day or two before
to fulfill a lecture engagement, and at Wells River,
Mr. Eben Thompson, a member of the Scientific
Class of Dartmouth College, was added to our little
party.

A WINTRY STORM. 253

WINTER LINGERS IN THE LAP OF SPRING.

Leaving the cars at Whitefield, the nearest rail-
road point on the western approach to Mount
Washington, we carried out our prearranged pro-
gramme of driving over to the White Mountain
House the same evening, despite gathering clouds
which threatened a severe storm. We had not
proceeded far on our twelve miles' ride before the
storm burst upon us in great fury, and for the
greater part of the way we were compelled to face
the fierce assaults of rain, hail, and sleet. The
ferocity of the storm was greater on the summits of
the Carroll hills than anywhere else, except, per-
haps, on the entrance to the plateau below the
White Mountain House, where the wind swept up
from the direction of the Notch with really tremen-
dous force. In both places the hail beat against our
faces like showers of needle points. By the time
we had reached the White Mountain House we
were chilled to the extent that we could hardly
move, and drenched to the very skin. The ground
was whitened by snow and the wintry landscape
was in very strange contrast with the vernal and
sunny scenes of the morning. We awoke Friday
morning to find the storm somewhat abated, and
the snow already melted, and in order that we
might lose no time in gaining the top of the moun-

254 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY.

tain, we drove over to the depot of the Mount
Washington Railway, seven miles distant from the
White Mountain House, immediately after break-
fast. It was decidedly cold when we arrived at that
point, and there were occasional showers, but we
cared Jess for a low temperature, even though it had
approached the winter standard, than for a high
wind which prevailed, and which would have blown
directly in our faces, half way up the mountain.
Dark, angry looking clouds were flitting down the
valley at no very great altitude, and the tree tops
bent and writhed under the fitful blasts. Alto-
gether, it seemed an unfavorable time to attempt
the ascent, and we settled down quite comfortably
at the log-hut with the railway workmen, deter-
mined to await more propitious weather. We were
not a little vexed to learn upon reaching the sum-
mit the day after, that while the elements had been
so turbulent in the valley, it had been calm and
pleasant above the clouds.

THE ASCENT.

Saturday dawned more auspiciously, and refreshed
by a good night's rest, we were in good condition
for our upward journey. Dense clouds still rested
upon the mountain, but there were no indications
that either wind or storm would impede us, and the
temperature was more springlike — too warm, in

WALKING UP THE MOUNTAIN. 255

fact, for violent exercise, as we soon discovered.
The morning mists had transformed the valley be-
low us into a lake of silver, which remained calm
and motionless through the early morning and until
the sun's heat caused the vapors to rise and dissi-
pate. Breakfast over, our preparations for depar-
ture were quickly made, for they consisted of little
else than the buckling on of knapsacks and the
grasping of spiked staffs. Crossing the little stream
above the station, and following up the logging road
a few rods, we gained the railway track at a point
above the high trestle-work. Thenceforward we
kept upon the track, a course we could easily take,
since the snow had melted from the ties and string-
ers. Walking up the mountain over the railway —
stepping from tie to tie — is fatiguing work, and in
places where the trestle-work is very high, quite
dangerous under certain circumstances, but it is the
most expeditious way of getting over the ground,
and on the whole the easiest, provided frequent
halts are made to rest. As we crept slowly upward,
we paused many times to gaze upon the glorious
panorama which was gradually unfolding itself to
our view. The lower banks of mist were rising
from the valleys and were being wafted about in
little clouds, or vanished altogether. Above us were

* o

leaden clouds shutting out the sun, and other great
masses of cloud appeared in the west. The Fran-

256 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY.

conia range stood out in noble outline against the
western horizon, and farther distant in the north-
west were some of the Green Mountain peaks,
though there was less distinctness than usual in the
remote view on account of the general cloudiness.
At one time Lafayette seemed transformed into a
volcano by a little fleecy cloud which ascended
from its peak like a puff of smoke. No snow was
encountered until we had nearly reached the
Waumbek station, and then it appeared in little
patches, in one or two places some distance above
that point, completely covering the track.

Not far above the Waumbek station we reached
the lower surface of the cloud which hung about the
mountain, and everything remained in obscuration
until we emerged into the sunlight a short distance
below the head of the Great Gulf. As we ap-
proached the upper surface of the vapory mass, a
fine solar bow, showing all the prismatic colors,
with a supernumerary bow, was thrown on the,
dense mists below. The cloudy mass was twelve
or fifteen hundred feet thick, and while we had
been enveloped in its misty folds, it had extended
farther westward, forming a continuous, boundless
sea, relieved only here and there by the tallest
peaks, which rose like islands from the surface.
Washington, Jefferson, Adams, and Madison lifted
their proud heads far above the cloud ocean, like

A PLEASANT ASCENT. 257

bold promontories on a rugged, rock-bound coast.
When we reached a sufficiently high point to look
eastward, we found that nearly the whole expanse
in that direction was also overspread by the billowy
masses, though at a lower level, as usual.

In the rarefied air about the summit of the moun-
tain any exertion is fatiguing, and pedestrianizing
up a steep grade becomes all the more difficult, but
happily, for a considerable distance above the Great
Gulf and until the Lizzie Bourne monument is
passed, the ascent is much more gradual than be-
low, and the weary traveller becomes better pre-
pared for the final pull to the summit. We reached
our destination in excellent time considering our lei-
surely way of travelling, for we had stopped many
times for the double purpose of resting and enjoying
the strange and beautiful scenes spread out before
us. Professor Hitchcock and Mr. Nelson met us a
little distance below the Lizzie Bourne monument,
and, after extending a very cordial greeting, re-
lieved us of our knapsacks, encumbrances we were
by this time very ready to part with, for they were
heavily laden with clothing, mail matter, provisions,
etc. At the summit we received another warm wel-
come from Sergeant Smith.

We could not have had a more favorable time
for our ascent. There was scarcely a perceptible
breeze at the summit, and at no time during the
17

258 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY.

morning had the velocity of the wind exceeded
more than a mile an hour. The temperature was
unusually high, having been recorded at 39° at
seven o'clock A. M. — three degrees warmer than
at the foot of the mountain, — with a slight down-
ward tendency in subsequent observations.

MORE BEAUTIFUL CLOUD SCENES.

For hours after our arrival there was a succes-
sion of the most glorious cloud pictures, and it was
a rich and rare pastime to watch their ever-varying
effects. Westward dense masses of cloud still
stretched out as far as the eye could discern, while
the vapory formations eastward of the mountain
range, upon the topmost pinnacle of which we were
standing, beside being at a lower level, were less
dense and in a more disturbed state. Masses of
cloud breaking away from the vast sea in the west,
were driven around Mount Washington and the
other high peaks, before the slight breeze, and
poured into Oakes' Gulf, Tuckerman's Ravine,
and the Great Gulf, like huge, noiseless cataracts.
There was a greater movement of air in the
Pinkham Notch than anywhere else, and the two
currents meeting at that point, fleecy mists were
thrown hundreds — perhaps thousands — of feet in
the air like spray. Now and then huge rifts would
appear in the southeast, opening most glorious vistas

- A RAMBLE ABOUT THE SUMMIT. 259

down the valley of the Saco. Once the misty cur-
tain was rent asunder from Mount Carrigain on the
west, to beyond Pequawket on the east, and the
atmosphere being exceedingly clear, the view
encompassed by those points was very extensive,
reaching even to Wachusett Mountain in Massa-
chusetts, while with a powerful glass we could see
all that was going on in Jackson and in the village
of North Conway. Later in the afternoon, the
clouds cleared away along the valleys of the An-
droscoggin and the Connecticut, opening new
scenes of loveliness.

A RAMBLE ABOUT THE SUMMIT.

I took an early stroll about the plateau forming
the summit, visiting the Tip-top and Summit
houses, and other points. While on the moun-
tain in February, I found it a very easy matter to
wander about in any direction, the ice and frost
covering all inequalities, and making comparatively
an even surface. When we arrived on this visit,
all the large rocks were bare, snow filling only the
interstices, although a furious snow-storm had oc-
curred only a week before. The mountain-top pre-
sented a mottled appearance. In places along the
railway and among the rocks, the old snow remained
to the depth of two or three feet, and in occasional
drifts still deeper. There was a huge drift in front

260 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY.

of the Tip-top House, obscuring nearly the whole
of the door, and another on the easterly side of the
Summit House, but aside from these, the buildings
were almost bare. There were a few lingering
beauties of frost-work, but this as well as the snow
had for the most part disappeared. It was a much
more difficult task to go about over the rocks now
than in February, but the exertion, however great,
well repaid one, for there were many strange sights
to see.

A CHANGE OF SCENE.

The succeeding day brought a very great change
in the weather, and a corresponding change in the
aspect of familiar objects about the summit. A
snow-storm set in sometime in the course of the
night, and by morning, every rock and building
was once more adorned with a white mantle. The
delicate frost-work had also begun to form again,
but the falling snow soon obscured its beauties.
This storm was succeeded by others of still greater
severity in the course of my ten days' sojourn at
the summit, and in a short time, the landscape was
rendered exceedingly wintry, in fact surpassing
everything of the kind I saw in February. The
huge rocks were almost entirely hidden by the
snow, which in some places 'was piled up in tremen-
dous drifts. The drift against the easterly end of
the Tip-top House extended to the upper windows,

SNOW AND FROST. 261

and it was no very difficult matter to clamber up
the side of the building, over the snow and ice, to
the very ridgepole. A few rods down the carriage
road, between the two stables, a drift formed at
least twenty feet in depth, making an even surface
over the steep incline at that place. The buildings
became entirely coated over with snow, ice, and frost-
work. The latter began to form in great abundance
a few days after our arrival, and the delicate, feath-
ery formations attached themselves to every object
— buildings, rocks, telegraph posts and wires, the
railway trestle-work, and even to the surface of
the snow itself. On the ninth of May we meas-
ured masses of the frost-work which were between
four and five feet in length. The telegraph, posts
just below the summit presented a singular appear-
ance, fringed with the beautiful white masses, and
in many places the formations on the trestle-work
extended out to a considerable distance. The little
post which marks the highest point of the mountain,
a rod or so northward of the Tip-top House, as-
sumed the form of a harp with the strings running
the wrong way. The pile of stones at the southerly
verge of the plateau, which Mr. Clough has chris-
tened the " Arctic Sentinel," sustained its new found
title very appropriately, for scarcely a vestige of
the stones could be seen through the thick masses
of frost. The rude pile of stones which marks the

262 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY.

spot where poor Lizzie Bourne perished, September
14, 1855, was also transformed into an object of
great beauty, — a more fitting monument to the sad
and mournful event. The frost-king had adorned
every stone with strange and beautiful forms of
spotless purity and whiteness, and surmounted the
whole with a crystal cross. Every chain and sup-
port about the houses became objects of the rarest
beauty, and a barrel left standing beside the Tip-
top House assumed a fantastic shape with the del-
icate, white, feathery masses growing out upon it.
An old telegraph pole standing in the rear of the
house, which, by splicing, had been made to serve
the purpose of a flag-staff, likewise became a thing
of picturesque beauty, a fantastic fringe extending
from it to the length of from a foot to three or four
feet, while the width of the mass scarcely exceeded
the thickness of the pole itself. The staff was
broken and the flag itself tattered and torn, but to
all adhered the same strange forms. As the " frost
feathers " form directly toward the wind, even the
tip of the wind- vane became encrusted with them
and the instrument was rendered useless until they
were removed.

HOW WE PASSED MAY-DAY.

The residents of the mountain-top were stirring
on the morning of May-day, quite as early as the

MAY-DAY. 263

people of the country below, who were supposed to
be in quest of the traditional May-flower, but with
a somewhat different object in view, for outward
appearances suggested any possible pastime except
going "Maying." Early rising was one of the vir-
tues rigidly practiced at the summit, and any visitor
who failed to conform readily to the custom was
quite sure to comply when the "Nevada militia"
mounted guard, a military performance superin-
tended by Sergeant Smith, and consisting in a very
great part of a drum solo executed on a large tin
can. Encased in overcoats, mufflers, and mittens,
some of us spent the early morning hours out of
doors, in the crisp, pure air, admiring the ever
varying cloud scenes and the gorgeous sunrise, and
studying the beautiful forms of frost-work created
during the previous night. Before the middle of
the forenoon clouds again enveloped the mountain,
shutting out everything below, above, and around
us, and snow again began to fall. After dinner
some of the younger members of the party tried
coasting down the carriage-road. A sled was
brought out from the depot, and the sport was
entered into with considerable zest. Sliding down
over the road fifteen or twenty rods, or across lots
over the huge drifts formed just below the summit
on the east side, was easy enough, but at such an
altitude, dragging a sled up-hill through the snow

264 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY.

is a trifle too much like work to be called a pastime,
and it was soon abandoned. The greater part of
the day was passed within doors, where the mem-
bers of the scientific party were kept quite con-
stantly employed, for the preparation of this volume
had already been entered upon. In-door confine-
ment at the summit during the winter, was made
far more tolerable than it might have become in
other localities, on account of the excellent library
made up for use by the different members of the
expedition. About noon Professor Hitchcock took
his departure on his return to Hanover, and in the
afternoon a fresh yisitor arrived, an employee of
the railway company, who had come up from the
station at the base of the mountain, into the clouds,
to communicate by telegraph with another resident
of the lower world. It seemed a strange errand,
but by climbing the mountain side, a long journey
to Whitefield or Bethlehem had been saved, and
much time also gained, since the telegraph station
at the summit was the only one open short of
those points.

SUNRISE AND SUNSET GLORIES.

Notwithstanding the quick succession of storms
which accompanied my visit, I was permitted to
enjoy several days of delightfully clear weather,
although at such times even, the country below us

SUNRISE AND SUNSET GLORIES. 265

was for the most part obscured by clouds. We also
had several fine sunrises and sunsets, — such as no
mortal ever gazed upon below. The morning of
May-day was delightful. It was clear overhead,
the storm having ceased during the night, but the
surrounding country was still obscured. A perfect
ocean of clouds covered all save the very highest
peaks. Of the Franconia range, Lafayette and
Moosilauke only were visible. The nearer moun-
tains were clearly to be defined on the cloud surface,
which everywhere seemed to follow the contour of
the hills and valleys. A cloud cap upon Mount
Adams extended higher than the top of Mount
Washington. Tuckerman's Ravine and the Pink-
ham Notch became deep, black gulfs, being filled
with clouds at a lower level. The sun had already
risen and had begun to flash its bright rays over the
vast cloud sea. Occasionally little masses of cloud
would drift over our heads before the light westerly
breeze, obscuring the sun for a moment, and as the
mists disappeared eastward, they became a golden
flood of light. The topmost points of cloud were
tinged with a delicate purple, and little, fleecy
masses of vapor breaking away from the great body
below, would rise here and there into the blue ether,
like mysterious spectres. Walking out to the west-
ern verge of the little plateau, we discovered the
shadow of the mountain upon the clouds resting

266 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY.

northward of Mount Monroe. Our own shadows
were surrounded — or rather the heads were encir-
cled — by a corona displaying the prismatic hues,
and occasionally a bow was shown on the drifting
mists above. The lower half of our shadows, of a
more intense blackness than the rest, was cast upon
the shadowy form of the mountain. A similar
phenomenon had been observed only a few morn-
ings previous by Professor Hitchcock. Such ex-
hibitions are, however, exceedingly rare.

A few nights after, we enjoyed another glorious
spectacle. The summit was enshrouded in clouds
when the sun went down, but they floated away
soon after, disclosing a scene of indescribable beauty
and grandeur. A vast sea of leaden clouds lay at
our feet, covering every valley and every mountain
peak except our own. Above us was another cloud
stratum, and we looked out from between the two
upon a fairy picture. Over Mount Monroe and the
chain of mountains running down to the Notch,
poured with the stillness of death a vast Niagara.
The whole western horizon was aglow with light.
The sun had left a sea of gold, while upon cither
side were delicate tints of purple, crimson, blue, and
green, the whole forming a picture such as no
painter ever produced. It seemed like a foretaste
of the bright, beautiful land of the future, — an
opening of the pearly gates leading to the haven of

AN EXCURSION. 267

eternal rest and peace. Like everything else in
winter scenery about the mountains, every feature
of loveliness was intensified many fold. Turning
from the glorious scene to the eastern horizon was
like being transported from the regions of light to
the very depths of darkness. Night had long since
settled there, and the dark, shadowy forms of cloud
appeared like spirits of evil banished from the heav-
enly paradise we had just gazed upon. The broad
band of light in the west began to contract, and the
bright colors faded little by little. The clouds
around us were at times flushed with a roseate hue,
while those above us, in the west, were tinged with
a brighter, though yet a pale light. After an ashy
pallor had settled upon the clouds below, there was
a reviving light — a faint flush which lighted up the
misty surface in a strange, supernatural way, — and
at length the gloom of night stole across the whole
scene.

AN EXCURSION TO TUCKERMAN's RAVINE.

Taking advantage of a warm and pleasant after-
noon, I made an excursion to the head and the north
side of Tuckerman's Ravine, accompanied by Mr.
Nelson. The temperature was comparatively mild
at the summit, ranging from 26° at seven A. M., up
to 34° at two P. M., and down to 25° at seven p. M.
We proceeded down the carriage road a little dis-

268 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY.

tance, and then struck off directly down the moun-
tain side over a course that would be impassable in
summer. In places, the snow was five or six feet
deep, and the sun had made it so soft that we occa-
sionally sank to a considerable depth. At times we
had to proceed with much care and caution for fear
of starting the whole mass in a slide. We soon
reached the plateau below, which was covered with
snow only in places, and turning our steps south-
ward, quickly made our way over the intervening
mile to the Ravine. It was warm and spring-like
behind the cone of Mount Washington, and the
snows of the summit were melting into countless
little streams which murmured among the rocks
beneath our feet, or saturated the lichens and
sedges to the condition of a well filled sponge. One
needs to be well clad about the feet to travel among
the mountains in either winter or spring. Skirting
the head of the tremendous abyss, we reached
the north brink, and making our way as best we
could through the deep snow and over the stunted
trees, descended a considerable distance. The snow
covering the jagged, little trees was so soft that we
frequently broke through to the depth of several feet,
and perchance became entangled in the branches.
We found a more practicable way back, and man-
aged to avoid both trees and snow by keeping to
the rocks.

TUCKERMAN'S RAVINE. 269

It is not my purpose to attempt any description
of the vast, rocky amphitheatre, for few White
Mountain visitors have neglected to view it with
their own eyes, and furthermore, language is weak
in describing such stupendous features in mountain
scenery. A great number of little rills trickled
down the walls of the Ravine, forming into a stream
of considerable size, which made merry music as it
danced along its rocky, precipitous bed, on its way
to the bright and inviting valley below, and the
deeper bass of the larger cascades came up'to our
ears softened by the distance. The Titanic barriers
of the Ravine formed the frame of a most beautiful
picture which included some of the most lovely por-
tions of the Saco valley and the Conway meadows,
with a background of mountains. Glancing upward
to the lofty brow of Mount Washington, we seemed
transported from the region of spring to the home
of hoary winter — from the verdant tree-tops and
pleasant meadows adovvn the Saco, to the seemingly
exhaustless stores of snow garnered from the cold
and cheerless clouds, which even now enshrouded
the summit like an impenetrable gray mantle. The
winter snows had poured over the head of the
Ravine and remained in a huge bank reaching from
the bottom to the very top, but the quantity was
probably less than is usual at the same time of the
year, and subsequent warm weather diminished it
greatly.

270 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY.

From Tuckerman's Ravine we retraced our steps
for a mile or so, and visited another enormous
chasm, of which visitors to Mount Washington
ordinarily hear little and see less. In fact, it is not
discernible from any of the travelled roads or paths.
It is much narrower than Tuckerman's, but to
appearances, nearly if not fully as deep, and the
walls are equally as precipitous — in one place
actually overhanging. The head of the ravine, un-
like Tuckerman's, forms an angle, and affords but
little lodgment for the snow. Before returning to
the summit, we also paid a visit to the northernmost
spur of the mountain, opposite Mount Adams, mak-
ing our way back across lots, reaching the protect-
ing roof of the Observatory soon after sunset.

A DAY'S TRAMP AMID THE CLOUDS.

Saturday, May 6th, was an unusually warm day
at the summit, the thermometer once standing at
56° in the shade. There were clouds below as
usual, and the sun's heat refracted therefrom with
increased power. Prof. Hitchcock and a companion
had made an excursion to Mount Adams a week
previous, and Mr. Nelson and myself determined
to perform the same journey. We indulged in the
vain hope that the clouds would dissipate or pass
away before we reached our destination, although
the entire country, except a little patch down the

A DAY'S TRAMP. 271

Saco valley, in the direction of Jackson and North
Conway, was obscured when we set out from the
Observatory, about nine o'clock. Proceeding down
the railway as far as the Gulf Tank, we struck off
northward, by the head of the Great Gulf, and
thence onward to Mount Clay. There is no beaten
track between Mount Washington and Mount
Adams, but the way cannot easily be missed under
ordinary circumstances, for the traveller has only
to keep along the ridges of Mount Clay, Mount
Jefferson, and Mount Adams successively, until the
high peak of the latter is reached. The whole dis-
tance lies far above the line of trees, and for the
greater part above an elevation of five thousand feet
from the sea-level. Mount Adams is the next high-

O

est peak of the White Mountain range to Mount
Washington, its elevation being 5,794 feet. To
reach it by the route above mentioned, we were
compelled to walk fully five miles, and to overcome
the following inequalities, according to Mr. Vose's
measurements of the elevation of the several peaks
and gaps : First, we had to descend about 874
feet from the summit of Mount Washington to the
gap between Washington and Clay, elevation 5,417
feet; then ascend 136 feet to the summit of Clay,
elevation 5,553 feet ; descend 574 feet to the gap
between Clay and Jefferson, elevation 4,979 feet ;
ascend 735 feet to the highest point of Jefferson,

272 ' MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY.

elevation 5,714 feet ; descend 775 feet to the gap
between Jefferson and Adams, elevation 4,939 feet ;
and finally ascend 855 feet to the top of Mount
Adams. These figures, however, fail to represent
the actual amount of up-hill and down-hill work to
be accomplished, for there is a succession of lesser
peaks, each of which must in turn be scaled. Most
persons who visit the mountains are inclined to look
contemptuously upon Mount Clay, regarding it as
an insignificant pile of stones compared with its
proud neighbors, Washington and Jefferson. Let
them but undertake a journey over it, -as We did,
and they will certainly change their opinions.
There is seemingly enough of it to represent every
member of the Clay family, dead or living. It is
a long ridge of little peaks made up of rough,
jagged rocks, which are most uncomfortable to
clamber over. The snow was in some places several
feet in depth, and long before we reached the sides
of Mount Adams, where it appeared to be the
deepest, it had grown very soft and yielding. In
crossing the plateau on the south side of Mount
Adams, instead of keeping upon the ridge at a
greater elevation, as we should have done, we fre-
quently found ourselves entangled in the branches
of the stunted trees.

Arriving at the top of the little heap of stones
forming the summit, about noon, we were not a

A TRAMP IN THE CLOUDS. 273

little disappointed to discover that the whole of the
surrounding country was still covered by clouds.
A broad furrow, stretching miles away both north-
ward and eastward, indicated where the Andros-
coggin valley was situated, but nought could be
seen of the river itself. The cloud line generally
rested about four thousand feet high, or about on a
level with the limit of trees on the mountain sides,
so that the sections seen were only the rocky, snow-
clad peaks. Mount Washington stood forth in
grand majesty, although we could see only its upper
half. The long ridge of Mount Carter lifted itself
above the surface of the shadowy sea, looking " very
like a whale ! " Some of the snow capped peaks of
Maine were also to be seen, but all else, save the
nearer White Mountain range, was sunk beneath the
vast ocean which stretched far away on every
side.

We devoured our dinner of " hard-tack," wash-
ing it down with pure snow-water, and then inscrib-
ing our names upon an old sardine box which had
evidently served as a sort of visitors' register for
nearly a dozen years, started to return. Tumultu-
ous clouds rose angrily in the southwest, as if to
drive us back from their domain. The prospect of
having to grope our way back over an uncertain
path, in the clouds, was not particularly pleasant,
but it was one we were compelled to accept, for we

18

274 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY.

were soon engulfed by the huge, fleecy masses
which rose in the west and drifted over the moun-
tains. While upon Mount Adams, and at other
points in our journey, we heard the shouts of our
friends on Mount Washington very distinctly, not-
withstanding the distance from peak to peak, in a
direct line, is at least three miles, and we were told
on our return that our progress had been watched
very minutely with the aid of the telescopes, our
staffs and footprints in the snow, even, being dis-
cernible. Up and down the sides of Lafa^etle^alm

i. i^*— - — ^ *

across the greater part of Clay, we were compelled
to grope our way through the clouds. Where the
snow remained we could retrace our footsteps, but
these frequently led over trackless rocks or bare
patches of sedge. The ridge in places is narrow,
and a deviation from the proper course might lead
us into the deep ravines on either side. The clouds
gathered thicker and thicker, at times clearing away
sufficiently, however, to show us our course ahead,
and by fixing our pathway at such times with a com-
pass, following our foot-prints where they could be
traced in the snow, or guiding ourselves on the
ridge between the falling waters which could be
heard on either side, we finally reached the railway,
which is a sure and safe pilot to the summit of
Mount Washington. It was a long, weary journey,
however, and we did not reach the depot until after
seven o'clock.

THE GHOSTLY ARMIES. 275

In ascending the cone of Mount Washington, we
again got above the cloud level, and enjoyed a rare
sunset scene. We also witnessed a veritable battle
of the clouds. The wind, which had been very
light throughout the day, had appeared to come
from different directions at different points — now
from the east, in another place from the north or
northwest, and again from the west or southwest.
We had ascended a little distance above the Gulf
Tank, when we turned and observed two ghostly
armies approaching each other — one from the
direction of Mount Monroe, and the other from out
the depths of the Great Gulf. Noiselessly they
marched onward, and the conflict came near the gap
between Mounts Washington and Clay. The bat-
tle was short and decisive. Little fragments of
cloud, like wreaths of smoke, were flung high in
air, and there seemed a momentary indecision, but
the fleecy forms from the southwest were soon flee-
ing before the fast gathering hosts of the east, until
all were commingled in one shadowy mass.

MORE WINTRY WEATHER.

In the course of the twenty-four hours succeed-
ing our visit to Mount Adams, we had an opportu-
nity to reflect upon the changeableness and uncer-
tainty of mountain weather. After a genial and
delightful day on the 6th, the summit became envel-

276 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY.

oped in clouds in the early evening, and rain began
to fall by nine o'clock. Before morning the rain
turned to snow, and a furious gale set in. The
thermometer which had indicated 56° Saturday
morning had descended to 25° at the same hour
Sunday morning, and Monday morning it marked
15°. For nearly forty-eight hours the snow fell,
or rather drifted over the summit in clouds, and the
tempest raged with great fury. Huge banks of
snow formed against the sides of the buildings and
along the line of the railway, more than replacing
those which had almost disappeared under the warm
influence of Saturday's sun. After nightfall on
Sunday the storm seemed to increase in force, and
it was thought that the wind at times readied a
velocity of nearly if not quite ninety miles an hour.
Beneath the force of the terrific blasts, the building
which sheltered us trembled and writhed like a ship
in an ocean tempest. No one ventured out of doors
except to make the required observations with the
anemometer, and there were times when it would
have been impossible to withstand the fury of the
storm. Warmth and comfort reigned within, but
the creaking of the timbers and chains and the
surging, seething roar of the storm were frightful to
hear. Each plank and timber in the whole structure
seemed to have a particular creak and groan of its
own, and a thousand demons appeared to rage with-

THE DESCENT. ' 277

out. Yet the storm was much less severe than
many which had been encountered at the summit
during the winter. I had chanced to be present
during a much more furious assault of the ele-
ments, in February, but nevertheless, the storm of
May 7th and 8th was something long to be remem
bered.

THE DESCENT.

Having already been detained at the mountain-
top longer than I desired, in consequence of the
storm, I availed myself of the earliest abatement of
the tempest to descend. To have attempted the
journey on Monday would have been both difficult
and dangerous, and it is doubtful if it could have
been performed in such a storm. On Tuesday, the
9th, it continued cloudy at the summit, but the
storm had passed. Immense quantities of snow had
fallen and the average depth for a mile and a half
down the mountain side was at least three feet. It
was unsafe walking upon the railway, for the snow
made the ties and stringers slippery and treacher-
ous, and it became necessary to take to the rocks.
From the summit to Jacob's Ladder, the best course
was to keep beside the railway. At that point the
old Fabyan bridle-path is crossed, and this formed
an easier route until the railway was again reached,
a short distance above the Waumbek station. The

278 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY.

snow was very deep far down into the forests, and
it made a pitfall of every hole and crevice, but
there was an advantage in having soft places to fall
upon. As I had neglected to provide myself with
snow-shoes, I could make but slow progress through
the deep snows, but upon the lower slopes there
was a much less quantity of snow, and the little
there was made a better surface to walk upon than
the bare rocks and earth alone would have fur-
nished.

Emerging from the cloud which enwrapped the
summit in its icy folds, I beheld a most glorious
scene. At first the misty curtain was withdrawn just
far enough to bring the valley of the Ammonoosuc
and the more distant green hills of Vermont into view
— a landscape of incomparable beauty, framed and
tinged by the neutral gray of the drifting mists.
Soon the surrounding peaks were added to the pic-
ture. A snowy mantle was spread over them all,
and little patches of sunlight played about their sum-
mits or shot down their slopes like shafts of bur-
nished silver. The frost formations near the sum-
mit of Mount Washington were very extensive and
very beautiful. In the forests below they were more
delicate, and seemingly more beautiful still. They
covered every bush, twig, and bit of hanging moss,
while the snow which had fallen upon the branches
formed a canopy of the same spotless purity. One

FROM MIDWINTER TO SPRING. 279

looked through long vistas of exquisitely carved
columns and arches, here and there bedecked with a
sprig of living emerald, and intertwined with cur-
tains and festoonings of ermine. It was surely a
glimpse into fairy-land.

There were some two inches of snow about the
depot at the foot of the mountain, but in the seven
miles' walk from thence to the White Mountain
House — from which point further locomotion was
had by horse power to a railroad connection at
Whitefield — all trace of winter, save in the view
backward toward the mountains, was lost. It was
a sudden transition from midwinter back to spring.
In the clear atmosphere the mountain chain we
were fast leaving behind us stood out in bold relief,
and we lingered long upon the brow of the hill, half
a mile up the turnpike from the Notch road, to
enjoy the beautiful prospect that spot above all
others affords.

PAET THIRD.

METEOROLOGY OF MOUNT WASHINGTON.

INTRODUCTION.

HAT a knowledge of the climatology of
a country is intimately connected with the
welfare of its people, is not to-day a mooted
question. From being a matter of mere conjecture
it has come to be a subject of inquiry and investiga-
tion. Many things have a bearing upon the ques-
tion : electric phenomena ; the formation, course,
and progress of storms ; the average temperature
and rainfall, and the fluctuations to which the ele-
ments are subject. Indirectly, the knowledge de-
rived from the investigation of these phenomena, is
a benefit to all, but especially is it of direct advan-
tage to the two most important vocations, — com-
merce and agriculture. Although the different phe-
nomena of meteorology have occupied the attention
of mankind from time immemorial, it is most fre-
quently only the application of the laws of physics
to a particular class of phenomena, " therefore it

282 INTRODUCTION.

could make no real progress until other sciences,
and especially physics, were sufficiently advanced
to constitute a satisfactory body of doctrines."

The discoveries in electricity, the most important
branch of physics for meteorology, date back scarcely
a century, and hardly twenty years have elapsed
since scientific societies and governments com-
menced systematic operations. The knowledge of
storms furnished by Redfield, Reid, etc., " suggested
the possibility of inaugurating a system of weather
observations, and of using the results for the benefit
of commerce and navigation both on the sea and
laud. The giving effect to this idea, as Buchan
remarks, constitutes the splendid contribution to
practical meteorology made by Admiral Fitzroy in
February, 1861, by the system of storm-warnings
or forecasts, which has since been adopted by almost
every country in Europe." The Congress of the
United States, in April 1870, passed a law establish-
ing a " Bureau of Telegrams and Reports for the
benefit of Commerce." " With quiet activity," it
was speedily organized and equipped.

The last of October it had its corps of observers
in the field, and on the first of November the first
official storm-warnings were made. Scarcely half
a dozen forecasts were published, when it was evi-
dent that this was the most important service ever
organized by the government.

VALUE OF THE OBSERVATIONS. 283

The observations taken by individuals, each
working after a method of his own, are interesting
in themselves, but lacking uniformity they are of
little value as compared with those taken under one
organization, each observer being furnished with
standard instruments, and all taking observations
simultaneously. The observations taken under the
direction of the British Board of Admiralty, the
Smithsonian Institution, and the United States
Storm Signal Service, with their trained, educated
observers, everything reduced to a perfect system,
and giving daily reports and forecasts of storms, will
reduce meteorology to such an exact science that
the probabilities, which are drawn from observa-
tions taken, will amount to almost an absolute cer-
tainty. My object in occupying Mount Washington,
was if possible, by studying the upper currents of
the air, to add something to our knowledge of
meteorology. Is there any one that doubts, but that
our atmospheric disturbances are governed by fixed
laws ? If they are, then, if we are able to under-
stand these laws we ought just as surely to be able
to give forecasts of the weather, as to foretell the
changes of the planets. That we were not mis-
taken in supposing Mount Washington to be a
desirable point for meteorological observations, the
following extract from a letter from Professor Cleve-
land Abbe, Director of the Cincinnati Observatory
and Assistant in the Signal Service will show : —

284 INTRODUCTION.

" Thus far, as regards the cold period, I am able
to verify your statement, and also to add that the
cloudy, drizzly and cold raw weather continues here
below a few hours after it begins to moderate over-
head. The cold upper winds, as reported from
Cheyenne and Mount Washington, are sure to be
followed by cold, cloudy weather for a long distance
south. The hygrometric observations from the
mountain stations are however of still more impor-
tance. Although these require very large cor-
rection, which are not given in Guyot's tables,
yet I manage daily to derive information which
foretells the coming storm, and would do so far
more accurately had we two other stations distant
one to three hundred miles. Especially do I value
the Mount Washington record in the study of the
rapidity of the motion of small areas of high and
low pressure. This has been to me the most im-
portant part of my work since I entered upon my
duties in January, and I feel the great advantage
that we possess over the English meteorological
observers, in that we, at once, have been able to
enter upon the study of that which they after many
years experience are only now able to begin to
study. I think, my dear sir, that meteorology and
our Signal Service are under great obligations to
you for your successful efforts to carry on your
meteorological observations during the winter on
Mount Washington."

CHAPTER XVI.

THE FROST-WORK AND CLOUDS.

HE frost-work is one of the most remark-
able phenomena of this high altitude. It
is difficult to convey in words any idea of
its wonderful form and beauty. It was not easy
at first to understand how it could be formed, but
from the study given to it last winter, and the op-
portunities we have had of observing its formation
this, we are able to give a plausible, if not a cor-
rect theory to account for this, the most plastic of
all the handiwork of nature.

HOW FORMED.

At our first observation, we see that it forms only
when the wind is northward, i. e. at some point be-
tween north and west or north and east, and never
when the wind is southward. It begins with mere
points, on everything the wind reaches : on the rocks,
on the snow, on the railway, and on every part of
the buildings, even on the glass. On the south side
of the buildings and the high rocks it is very slight,

286 THE FROST-WORK AND CLOUDS.

as the wind reaches there only in eddying gusts.
When the surface is rough, the points, as they be-
gin are an inch or more apart ; when smooth it
almost entirely covers the surface at the very begin-
ning, but soon only a few points elongate, so that
on whatever surface it begins to form, it has very
soon the same general appearance, presenting
everywhere the same beautiful, feathery-like forms.

" Thus Nature works, as if defying art ;
And in defiance of her rival powers,
Performing such inimitable feats,
As she with all her rules can never reach."

When the ice which has formed on the rocks is
transparent and the frost-work forms on this, we can
often see in the interstices of the frost-work, which
is purely white, the gray rocks and the many
colored lichens, the whole making a picture of rare
beauty. In going up the mountain we do not see the
frost-work until we get some distance above the limit
of the trees ; it is nearly a mile before it is seen in
its characteristic forms, and it is only immediately
about the summit that it presents its most attractive
features. We notice also, that it always forms
toward the wind, never from it, and the rapidity
with which it forms, and the great length of the
horizontal masses, is truly wonderful. We placed a
round stick, an inch in diameter, in a vertical posi-
tion, where it was exposed to the full force of the

FROST FEATHERS
Formed against the northwest wind.

SOLID ICE
Formed upon the rocks when the wind came from the South.

MASSES OF ICE. 287

wind, and in less than two days some of the hori-
zontal icicles — we call them icicles for the want of
a more appropriate name — were two feet in length
and scarcely any thicker than the stick itself. They
formed on every part of the stick that was exposed,
but of course some points were much longer than
others. They remained several days, but with
a change of wind they were blown off. On the
piles of stones south of the house, these horizontal
masses are sometimes five or six feet in length.
Although these masses are often as hard as the
hardest ice, yet throughout they are as white as
the purest snow.

On the southern exposures, instead of the frost-
work — especially on the telegraph poles along the
railway, — there are only masses of pure ice, which
have always a peculiar hue of greenish blue, which
is in striking contrast with the pure white of the
frost-work on the side opposite.

In the early part of December, when the ther-
mometer ranged from 25° to 29°, and the wind was
southward, the ice formed to the thickness of a foot
or more on the telegraph poles near the house.
These icy masses are formed evidently bv the con-
densation of the yapor of the atmosphere, as it is not
uncommon for the air to be above the point of satu-
ration. The frost-work is also formed by the con-
densation of vapor, but besides the vapor, the air

288 THE FROST-WORK AND CLOUDS.

must be filled with minute spiculse of ice. As the
vapor condenses these are caught, and thus the hori-
zontal, feathery masses are formed. This accounts
for the facts that we have observed, namely, that it
forms when the wind is northward and always toward
the wind.

THE CLOUDS.

Mountains without clouds are spiritless and tame.
It is true, that on high summits even under a noon-
day sun, when there is some haze in the atmosphere,
we get an idea of immensity that we could not be-
fore comprehend, but on the same heights with
clouds floating gracefully around the distant peaks
or their shadows flitting across illimitable forests,
we have besides, a beauty and a grandeur, of which
one who has never looked upon a cloud-scene from
a mountain-summit " has as little imagination or
understanding as he has of the scenery of another
planet than his own." I suppose we might stay
here a lifetime and not see a single cloud effect re-
peated ; we might see something similar, but in its
details each would be unlike that which preceded
it. Hence the attraction is ever new, and each
succeeding day reveals new glories not seen before.
In summer, often in the morning, the fogs lie along
the valleys, over the lakes and streams. When
the sun warms the air, these fogs rise and form
clouds that pass over the summits and float away to

A SEA OF MIST. 289

be redissolved as they meet the warmer currents of
the air, or to be augmented, when they meet the
cooler currents. In winter the cloud effects are
quite different from those of summer. Often we
stand on the summit and look forth upon an illimit-
able sea of mist glittering in the bright sunlight,
while every peak, except that on which we stand, is
concealed by clouds. So it is not uncommon for it
to be a dark day in the valleys while on the summit
we are in the bright sunlight. Sometimes the clouds
are two thousand feet below the summit of Mount
Washington; in that case innumerable mountain
peaks protrude and seem like islands in an ocean
bounded only by the sky. In winter these cloud-
effects continue often a whole day almost un-
changed.

These scenes naturally suggest Bayard Taylor's
" Hymn to the Air, — "

" What is the scenery of earth to thine ?
Here all is fixed in everlasting shapes ;
But where the realms of gorgeous cloudland shine,

There stretch afar thy sun-illumined capes,
Embaying reaches of the amber seas

Of sunset, on whose tranquil bosom lie

The happy islands of the upper sky,
The halcyon shores of thine Atlantides.
Anon the airy headlands change, and drift

Into sublimer forms, that slowly heave

Their toppling masses up the front of eve,
Crag heaped on crag, with many a fiery rift,

And hoary summits, throned beyond the reach
19

290 FROST-WORK AND CLOUDS.

Of Alps or Caucasus; again they change,
And down the vast, interminable range

Of towers and palaces, transcending each,

The workmanship of Fable-land we see
The "crystal hyaline" of Heaven's own floor, —

The radiance of far Eternity

Reflected on thy shore ! "

At times the whole country westward is covered
with clouds which are moving eastward, but when
they pass the ridge that runs south to the Notch
they are redissolved as they meet the warmer cur-
rents, and the air is then as transparent as if there
was but a single cloud westward. It has not, to
my knowledge, ever rained or snowed in the val-
leys when there was only a single stratum of cloud
spread over the country at this low elevation. It
has been noticed by aeronauts, " that when there is
rain from a sky completely covered with clouds,
there is always a similar range of clouds situated
above at a certain height ; and that on the contrary,
when it does not rain, although the sky presents
below the same appearance, the space situated im-
diately above, as a dominant character, has a great
extent of clear sky, with a sun unobstructed by a
single cloud. This explains why a similar state of
things frequently exists. — a very cloudy, overcast
sky without a drop of rain."

FORMATION OF CLOUDS. 291

CLOUDS FROM THE OCEAN.

It is one of the sublime scenes on Mount Wash-
ington, to watch the clouds as they come moving in
solid phalanx from the ocean. The upper surface
is generally higher than Mount Pleasant in Maine,
hardly as high as the summit of Pequawket, or
the Carter Range. When lower than the Carter
Range it is frequently the case that the clouds come
into the deep ravines between Mount Washington
and the Carter Range, both from the north and the
south. In every instance when the clouds have
come in thus from the sea, there has been a storm
the same day or the day following, not only on the
mountain but throughout New England. When
the clouds have come thus from the eastward, the
wind on Mount Washington has been west or south-
west. The clouds, when a storm "has approached
from the south, have always been at a high eleva-
tion, and they seem to be continually augmented as
they come northward, extending over the high
mountain summits ; although far above them, a col-
umn would be formed from each summit to the
mass above. The gradual formation of the cloud
is easily explained. The moisture-laden atmos-
phere from the south, coming in contact with the
colder currents north, the vapor is condensed. In
the vicinity of the snow-clad mountain summits, it

292 FROST-WORK AND CLOUDS.

is quite probable that there is a colder stratum of
air, hence the column extending to the clouds above.
Instead of a great sea of mist, or a storm gradually
approaching, the clouds may be driven by fierce
winds into " boiling heaps of illuminated mist,
furrowed by a thousand colossal ravines," or dashed
against the jutting cliffs and crags, being thrown
like spray hundreds of feet into the air to be caught
again by the wind and hurled down into the seeth-
ing depths. No pen, no pencil, can portray the
grandeur of the scene, when these clouds are
touched with rose-tinted amber light, while into the
depths of the chasms formed by the whirling mist,
shadows fall dark as night, or when the sea of clouds
with " mighty icebergs floating in it," extends as
far as the eye can reach, or the forest-clad peaks
protruding above its surface, the bosom of the
sea apparently as smooth as polished marble, then
perchance agitated by slightly undulating swells, or
rolling in waves burnished with silver and tipped
with gold.

The coronas encircling the sun, the luminous
glow surrounding our shadows as they are thrown
far out upon the clouds, the supernumerary bows
continuing for hours, and many cloud scenes, are
described by Mr. Nelson in his journal.

CHAPTER XVII.

THE WIND.

ERY few persons have any idea of the
velocity of the wind or its pressure. The
greatest velocity that has been measured at
the Observatory at Central Park, New York City,
is forty-five miles per hour. As the Observatory
is in an exposed situation and near the sea-board it
is reasonable to conclude that this is the greatest
velocity, except in very rare instances, anywhere on
the Atlantic slope, where the elevation is not much
above the sea level. The pressure for this velocity
at the level of the sea when the barometer is at its
mean height, is six pounds per square foot.

THE VELOCITY AND PRESSURE AT LOW ELEVATIONS.

As the pressure varies as the square of the ve-
locity, when the velocity of the wind is twenty
miles per hour, its force is four times as great as
that of a wind blowing ten miles per hour. When
the wind is blowing from sixty to seventy miles per
hour, it requires a man of considerable physical

294 THE WIND.

strength to be able to stand against it, for the pres-
sure then near the level of the sea, is from eighteen
to twenty-four pounds per square foot. If a person
presents a surface of six square feet and knows his
physical strength, he can easily tell how great a
velocity he can withstand.

It is a very different tiling, however, being merely
able to stand bracing one's self, and going against
the wind, for in this case, we have as it were, to
push the weight of the pressure of the wind before
us.

THE VELOCITY AND PRESSURE AT HIGH ELEVATIONS.

The summit of the mountain is rarely free from
winds, and they have a greater velocity than at any
point where they have ever been measured, except
those measured by Mr. Clough and myself on Moos-
ilauke, last winter. One reason why it is so much
greater here than elsewhere, is from the fact, that
in the valleys the wind is generally unsteady, blow-
ing in gusts, while here, during the most violent
winds, there is not the slightest lull, until the storm
has reached its culmination, then there are lulls
which continually lengthen until the storm ceases.

" During the most violent storms the wind has
exceeded a hundred miles per hour, and the. average
height of the barometer may be stated at twenty-
three inches.

8 S

r

M 0"

s o

PRESSURE OF THE WIND. 295

" With a velocity of one hundred miles per hour
at the level of the sea, the pressure on a square foot
is fifty pounds. But in estimating the pressure at
the summit we must make a reduction in accord-
ance with the principle that the power of a moving
fluid to remove an obstacle is in proportion to the
square of its density. Taking the average pressure
at the level of the sea during these storms at twenty-
nine inches, we must reduce the tabular pressure of
fifty pounds as follows : 50 X (If)2 = 31.45. That
is, a velocity of one hundred miles per hour at the
summit, would gave a pressure of 31.45 pounds to
the square foot ; and this pressure corresponds by
the same table to a velocity at the level of the sea
of 79.3 miles an hour. Hence we see that a veloc-
ity of 79.3 miles an hour at the level of the sea
would do the same damage as a velocity of one
hundred miles on the summit." Calms are very
rare and generally of short duration. They occur
when the wind is on the point of changing. At
times the changes are very sudden ; the wind may
be southeast and in an hour there will be a stiff
breeze from the northwest, which soon increases to
a gale. This change of the wind from a point, to
that directly opposite, is not uncommon. The pre-
vailing winds have been northwest, and the most

O '

violent, with one exception, have come from that
direction or a few points farther north.

296 THE WIND.

As the side of the house presents a surface of
more than six hundred square feet, the pressure of
the wind, when it reaches its greatest velocity, is
tremendous, and it puts the house to the severest
test, especially when it comes in heavy gusts.

After a time of light wind, when the building is
full of frost and the joints are frozen, a heavy wind
loosens the joints with a report that is startling, so
sharp that, until we become accustomed to it, we
can hardly believe but that the house is coming
down over our heads. These reports, with the al-
most constant roar of the wind, are trying to weak
nerves, and even if a person has considerable cour-
age it is sometimes difficult to be perfectly cool, par-
ticularly when the thermometer gets below — 40,
as the chances of escape are very small should
the house be crushed. But in general it only fur-
nishes excitement enough to keep off the ennui in-
cident to an isolated life.

REMARKABLE WINDS WHEN CLEAR.

Nothing has surprised me more than the fierce
winds we have when it is perfectly clear. We ex-
pect them when there are clouds on the mountain,
but we have had the wind more than eighty miles
per hour when there was not a single cloud above
the summit. The wind at such times is rarely a
steady pressure, as it is during a period of storm.

THE WAR OF THE ELEMENTS. 297

No war of the elements is so remarkable as when
these invisible elements rage with such fury around
this high summit on a clear, cold, moonlight night
in midwinter. At such times the sky is intensely
blue, the moon looks coldly down, and the stars
shine as nowhere else, except at high altitudes and
in northern latitudes. Besides the roar of the wind
and the creaking of the house, the wind seems to
be trying its utmost to draw the coals upward
through the stove-pipe, for it tugs and pulls and
jerks, and now, as if gathering all its force, it gives
one long, steady pull, but the coals are too heavy
for it. With light wood it would certainly succeed,
if not in taking the wood away, at least in taking
every spark of fire, — for this was done several times
during my stay on Moosilauke. Now the sound is a
hoarse deafening roar, that dies away into a plaintive
moan ; now it screeches and howls as though all the
witches of Macbeth were therein confined, but in
an instant the sound ceases, only however to be
renewed by others so weird and strange that one
almost believes that the ghosts of the aborigines,
who were guilty of having ascended where only the
lichens grow, still hover about the summit ; for they
had a tradition that such would never reach the
hunting ground beyond the sunset, but must wan-
der forever around the mountain they had dared
profane. Now it seizes the damper in the pipe,

298 THE WIND.

which rattles and vibrates, and seems to offer n<>
resistance to the passing currents of the air.

Thus the wind through the pipe roars and shrieks,
growls and howls, pipes and hums, grating and jar-
ring, creeking and twanging, then gently breathing
with a plaintive moan, while outside it comes in
waves as the ocean beats in heavy surges on the
shore. Almost every' one who has been here in
summer has noticed, when at intervals there are
clouds passing over the mountain, that the wind
blows with greater velocity while the clouds are on
the mountain. This is probably due to the greater
humidity, as it is well known that an excess of
aqueous vapor gives rise to currents in the atmos-
phere. As the motion of the atmosphere is from
the place where it contains least vapor to that where
there is the most vapor, this may be the cause of
the prevailing northwest winds. On account of
the proximity of the ocean there must be an excess
of vapor there as compared with the currents on
the summit of Mount Washington.

THE WIND AND THE BAROMETER.

From my observations here and on Moosilauke,
it is quite certain that during periods of storm there
is a close connection between the velocity of the
wind and the rise and fall of the barometer. By a
period of storm we mean the time embraced in any

BAROMETER AND THE WIND. 299

severe and extensive commotion of the atmosphere.
These commotions here usually last from twelve to
thirty-six hours, and may extend to forty-eight
hours before the barometer rises to its mean height.
For each period of storm during our observations,
I have constructed two curves on the same time
scale, one representing the velocity of the wind, the
other the rise and fall of the barometer, and find
that the ordinates of these curves almost exactly
correspond. In one instance the barometer went
up when there was a lull in the midst of the storm,
but went down as the velocity of the wind again
increased, which it continued to do for half an hour,
when there were frequent lulls, accompanied by a
gradual rise in the barometer until the storm ceased.
Why is it that the barograms correspond so exactly
with the velocity of the wind ?

An explanation of this curious phenomena is
given by Mr. F. Gaston, F. R. S., in the Proceed-
ings of the British Association : —

" The answer to this question will best be con-
veyed by a consideration of what we should expect
the movements of the mercurial column to be if a
suitably made barometer were plunged into troubled
water. Its movements would not correspond to
each ripple that passed vertically above its cistern,
because it would be affected by all the disturbance
in an area of surface water whose radius is a func-

300 THE WIND.

tion of the depth of immersion. If it were plunged
to the depth of many fathoms the mercury would
wholly cease to oscillate, becaiase the average level
of the area with which it sympathizes would be
constant however much its surface might be broken
up into undulations. If it were immersed to a
suitable depth, the mercury would foretell the ad-
vent of each wave of exceptional size, before an ex-
ceptional height of water had arrived vertically above
the barometer. It is easy and interesting to make
an experiment to the same effect, by dipping a glass
tube, open at both ends, straight into a pan of
water and disturbing the water with the hand.
When the tube is dipped but a short way in, the
water it encloses harmonizes in its oscillations with
the water that surrounds it, but this harmony is
diminished and the oscillations in the tube become
more sluggish, as the tube is immersed more deeply,
and at length they disappear altogether. In pre-
cisely the same way I believe the mercury in the
barometer sympathizes with atmospheric disturbance
throughout a wide circle."

CHAPTER XVIII.

STORMS.

T is difficult to convey in words any vivid
idea of the terrific grandeur of the storms
in winter upon the summit of Mount
Washington. They have probably been more se-
vere than any ever before experienced, especially
when the cold is taken as one of the elements.
The storm of the 18th of October is noticed on
page 167. There was a storm of some severity the
24th of November, when I was alone on the moun-
tain. But the most severe storm, of all that we
had, occurred on the 15th of December, and as it
was the first terrific storm since the house had been
built which we occupied, we did not feel that
security, that we should in one that had stood the
force of the storms in winters past.. The other
houses are of stone, ours of wood, and besides
presented a much greater surface to the wind than
any building ever before erected on the summit.
Two of the party had never been on a mountain
summit during a winter storm, so they would be

302 STORMS.

likely to describe it more vividly than a person
who had witnessed many : —

" We have had probably as severe a tornado as
will visit us during the winter. The velocity of
the wind was recorded at seven o'clock in the even-
ing, and it was ninety-two miles per hour. After
that time it was not safe to venture out with the
anemometer, unless we wanted to take an air-line
passage to Tuckerrnan's Ravine ; for the wind kept
increasing until toward morning, when it blew a ter-
rific hurricane. Mr. Huntington and Mr. Clough,
both having had considerable of this kind of ex-
perience, say it must have blown, at the highest
point, one hundred and ten to one-hundred and
twenty miles per hour. We expected at any mo-
ment to have the building come down about our
heads, and were prepared to make an effort for
our lives, having put hard-tack in our pockets, and
armed with axe and saw, ready, in case we found
it necessary, to cut our way out, getting also some
of our thickest blankets ready for use, and prepar-
ing with considerable excitement for any emer-
gency. The wind roared terribly, as if inspired
with the power and spite of all the furies, and the
wild rage was so deafening that we were obliged
to shout to our utmost in order to be heard.

" Messrs. Huntington and Clough were both very
cool, although I believe they thought the chances

NIGHT WATCHES. 303

were more than even that we would have quarters
elsewhere before morning ; and Mr. Smith, the
gentlemanly meteorological observer sent by the
government to this station, was quite jolly, offering
such consolation as this : ' If we were blown down
into Tuckerman's Ravine, it would be for the " ben-
efit of commerce," and so, of course, all right.' It
seemed too much like cracking jokes while sitting
up with a corpse, however, to be much relished.
We watched all night, waiting anxiously the effect
or result of the hurricane, and after a long night
of such fearful tumult, morning brought us a little
relief, by reducing the velocity of the wind to
eighty-four miles per hour. We were duly thank-
ful for this slight change, and at breakfast we con-
gratulated each other on our narrow escape ; for,
if the building had been crushed, our chance for
wishing any one a ' Merry Christmas ' and ' Happy
New Year ' would have been very small ; for the
mercury was 15° below zero, and the barometer,
the lowest recorded so far, 22.796. This remark-
able fall will not happen often, but when it does,
we shall keep housed.

" The immediate danger is passed, however, and
our good cover has been severely tested, and has
not been found wanting in point of strength. We
have more confidence in it than we had before
the storm."

304 STORMS.

During the storm so great was the force of the
wind, that the three-inch planks which had been
securely bolted across the opening where the train
enters the building in summer, were pressed in four
or more inches, while the end of the building and
the side towards the wind, and finally the whole
structure, had a vibratory motion not altogether

V

pleasant.

THE STORM OF TWENTY-SECOND AND TWENTY-THIRD
OF JANUARY.

We Jiad another storm the twenty-second and
twenty-third of January. Though the wind was not
so fearful as the storm of December, yet the cold
was more intense. The building had been tried
by previous storms and we felt more secure. But
the roar of the storm and the ice thrown against
the building, like showers of grape, kept us wide
awake. In the journal of this date will be found
additional notes of this storm, and in the mL-teoro-
loo-ical record it will be seen how uniform was the

CT

fall of the barometer, until the storm reached its
culmination.

During the storm of the fourth and fifth of Feb-
ruary the cold exceeded in intensity anything we
had the whole winter. The gale began on Thurs-
day, the second, quite suddenly, and reached its
height on the fourth, about midnight, when the
velocity of the wind was estimated at one hundred

INTENSELY COLD. 305

miles per hour, and the barometer was 22.464, the
lowest recorded. To it was added the most intense
cold ever experienced short of arctic regions, the
thermometer indicating 59 below zero at three

<j

o'clock Sunday morning, the fifth.

THE COLD IN ARCTIC REGIONS.

In arctic regions, the intense cold " is breathless,
still, and bright ; " and Dr. Carpenter in his " Hu-
man Physiology, says " " that in the experience of
Arctic voyagers the temperature of — 50° may be
sustained when the air is perfectly still, with less
inconvenience than is caused by air in motion at a
temperature of 50° higher." The immunity from
chilling influences is " chieflv attributable to the

v

dryness and stillness of the atmosphere." But
here we had neither dryness nor stillness, for the
wind was at least eighty miles per hour, while the
cold was most intense. Above it was perfectly
clear, but below there was a dense haze which had
more the appearance of smoke than clouds. Dur-
ing this period of cold, when the temperature was
— 21°, and the wind a little more than sixty miles
per hour, my nose was frozen in less than three min-
utes, while standing with my back to the wind.
Mr. Nelson, when the cold was most intense, had
his fingers frost-bitten while cutting a piece of meat,
directly over our room. When it is so intensely cold
a person freezes without feeling the least sensation

306 STORMS.

of cold. During my stay on Moosilauke I made
the ascent of the mountain when the thermometer
was at zero, and the wind was seventy miles per
hour, though I was not exposed to the full force of
the wind until within a short distance of the house.
Here I went about forty rods from the house when
the thermometer was — 16° and the wind above
sixty miles per hour. In the most intense cold we
had and when the velocity of the wind was so great,
it is probable that a person would become instantly
insensible.

During a gale on the 10th of February we
were not the only witnesses. " It was not accom-
panied by such intense cold, although the tem-
perature was quite low, reaching 21° below zero at
seven o'clock the next morning. There was a
downward tendency in the barometer in the morn-
ing, and it was quite low throughout the afternoon
and until late in the evening, when the tempest be-
gan to abate. Its lowest point was 23.033, and its
variations followed the rise and fall of the wind
quite closely. The wind, which was blowing at the
rate of fifty-two miles an hour at seven A. M., in-
creased to eighty-seven miles by the middle of the
forenoon. At noon it had decreased to forty-eight
miles, but at two p. M., it had begun business with
renewed vigor, eighty-eight miles being indicated.
At three o'clock, the anemometer marked seventy-
six miles, and at seven p. M., when the last obser-

A FURIOUS GALE. 307

vation with that instrument was taken, it had again
reached eighty-eight miles. For the next hour or so
the gale increased in fury, until it reached at least
one hundred miles per hour. The wind howled and
thundered without like an army of angry demons,
while an incessant pelting of the building was kept
up with pieces of ice and dislodged frost-work. At
times it seemed as if the whole side of the depot
was about to be crushed in. Added to the roaring
of the storm there was seemingly an individual
creak and groan for every plank in the whole
structure, and a universal rattling of everything
that could emit a sound. In the midst of the storm
there came a sudden crash, followed by a rushing,
seething noise, and it was discovered that a window
had been broken. The aperture was closed by
nailing boards across the inside, and further dam-
age was prevented. With each occasional lull, the
framework and supports of the structure, which had
been strained to their utmost, sprang back to their
places with another startling report."

The wind during the storms already mentioned,
was northwest, or a little more towards the north.
On the 3d of March the storm was from the S.S.E.
and the wind reached a velocity of ninety-eight
miles per hour, and the rain swept along in torrents,
completely deluging the mountain. In March the
mountain was more free from storms and clouds
than any month during our stay. In April there

308 STORMS.

was only one very severe rain-storm, and that was
from the southwest on the 5th. A thunder-storm
on the llth, which was quite severe in the valleys
adjacent did not reach the summit ; the flashes of
lightning, however, could be seen, but the thunder
was heard only as a distant roar. As it was snow-
ing on the mountain the storm must have been far
below us. It snowed nearly half the month, and
the storms were quite like those in the valleys in
winter, while here in the winter months it snowed
very little, and the snow-flakes seemed to be mere
spiculaB, fragments that below may have formed
regular flakes. So it seems altogether probable
that the snow clouds of winter are at quite a low
elevation. The first half of May was very much
like April, though the snow-storms were more fre-
quent, and in places the drifts were of greater depth
than at any time previous. During the winter it
sometimes rained when the thermometer was 23°,
and snowed when it was 38°. In case of rain, the
clouds must have been driven up from a much
lower elevation. When the wind is seventy and
eighty miles per hour it does not take a cloud long
to come half a mile up the mountain.

Whether we watch the storm as it approaches,
or feel its force as it breaks in all its fury on the
summit, there is a grandeur and sublimity in these
manifestations that fills the mind with awe and
wonder.

CHAPTER XIX.

METEOROLOGICAL RECORD.

HESE tables comprise the observations
taken on the summit of Mount Washing-
ton, lat. 44° 16' 34" north, long. 71° 20'.
west, 6,291.7 feet above the level of the sea,
during a period of six months, from November 12,
1870, to May 13, 1871. On account of our high
elevation the record in regard to clouds necessarily
differs from ordinary observations, in that the clouds
were frequently below our level. Those we looked
down upon, sometimes, undoubtedly seemed to us
to be of a different kind from what they would to
an observer looking at them from below. At no
time during the winter months were we able to see
that the clouds above the summit moved in a dif-
ferent direction from those immediately around us.
In April and May, however, the clouds both above
and below frequently moved in a different direction
from those at the elevation of the summit. The
other observations are the same as those taken at
low elevations. In the last table are the thermo-

310 METEOROLOGICAL RECORD.

grams ! of the three winter months at Mount "Wash-
ington ; Montreal, Q. P., from observations by Chas.
Smallvvood, LL. D., D. C. L., etc.; Lunenburg,
Vt., from observations by H. A. Cutting, M. D. ;
and Providence, R. I. from observations by Alexis
Caswell, LL.D., etc. The observations were taken
syncronously, except that the last column of the
Providence observations, were taken at ten p. M.
instead of nine p. M. In this table the fractions
have been omitted, though they have been used in
calculating the mean.

THE INSTRUMENTS WE USED.

The anemometer, the instrument we used for
measuring the velocity of the wind, which is here
represented, consists essentially of four hemispheri-
cal cups, having their diametrical planes exposed to
a passing current of air. They are carried by four
horizontal arms attached to a vertical shaft, which
is caused to rotate by the velocity of the wind.

1 We have used the word thcrmograms for the record of the
height of the mercury in the thermometer. We usually say the
height of the thermometer, or simply the thermometer, as a name
for this record. But thermometer is the name of the instrument,
and is inappropriate as expressing a record of the height of the
mercury in the tube. The word thcrmogram is derived from
OtpfjLi], heat, and 7f>a/xju^, that which is written; so literally it means
that which is written of the heat, hence the appropriateness of the
word. We might follow the word barograms in the same way, but
this is unnecessary.

ANEMOMETER.

THE ANEMOMETER. 311

Dr. Robinson found that the cups, and, conse-
quently, the axis to which they are attached, revolve
with one third of the wind's velocity, which is here
measured by a simple arrangement of two wheels,
working in endless screws, and by means of two
indices, shows on inspection of the dial, the velocity
of the wind. The outer or front wheel, which re-
volves once for every five miles, is furnished with
two graduated circles, the interior circle being sub-
divided to miles and tenths of miles, whilst the
outer circle is divided into one hundred and one
parts, each part being equivalent to five miles, so
that it measures 505 miles of wind.

The stationary index, at the top of the dial, marks
on the inner circle the number of miles — under
five — and tenths, that the wind may have traversed,
in addition to the miles shown by the traversing
index, which revolves with the dial and indicates on
the outer circle the transit of every five miles.

Thermometers are so well known that a descrip-
tion here is unnecessary. How low a temperature
a mercurial thermometer will register correctly is a
question. That the mercury here fell gradually to
— 59, and then rose again with the same regularity
as in other extreme changes, is certain.

The Anemoscope or Wind-vane. We made many
attempts to keep a vane on the building, but it was
blown down every time it was put up. When

812 METEOROLOGICAL RECORD.

the rod did not break the tail of the vane would
become so loaded with ice that it would not turn
to the wind. As a consequence a light vane had
to be used which could be taken in to free it
from ice.

The barometers we used here were manufactured
by James Green of New York. The principle of
these is also well known.

The Hygrometer. Though this instrument is
common enough, very few persons perhaps, even
among scientific men, fully appreciate its importance.
Nearly every person has noticed that at certain
times various substances attract the moisture of the
atmosphere, or rather the particles of moisture enter
the loose and open texture of substances exposed to
the air and cause them to expand : wood swells,
tobacco is sensibly affected, salt becomes moist, a
rope contracts ; these are for some persons a hy-
grometer, or " measure of moisture." The most
simple mechanical device for measuring the mois-
ture is a well-twisted elastic cord suspended with a
small weight at the end. The rise and fall of the
weight will show the variation of moisture in the
air. In the weather-house, the man coming out in
wet weather and the lady in dry ; the contracting
substance used in these is catgut or hair. A simi-
lar toy is the capuchin, in which the monk puts on
his hood when the air is damp. But all animal

THE HYGROMETER. 313

substances deteriorate from time and exposure, and
soon lose their hygrometric properties.

The instrument in most common use is the dry
and wet bulb hygrometer. This, although perhaps
suggested by others, was brought into general notice
in England by Dr. John A. Mason. As modified
by Glaisher it consists of two thermometers exactly
similar and having a fine thread of mercury. One
bulb is covered with a fine piece of muslin. From
this a lamp-wick extends into a cup of water.
When the mercury is below the freezing point the
bulb is covered with a film of ice.

Dr. Schaeffer of Washington, D. C., has in-
vented a revolving hygrometer which, especially in
extremely warm or cold weather, seems preferable
to any other. It differs from the last in that the
bulbs are straight or oblong, instead of hemispheri-
cal. Water, at the temperature of the air or as near
it as possible, is put upon one of the bulbs, with a
camel's hair brush, then the instrument is revolved
rapidly until the water evaporates, when the read-
ing of the instrument is taken. The evaporation of
water or ice takes from the bulb that amount of
heat required for its conversion into vapor, and the
consequent cold is shown by the fall of the mer-
cury. This depression of the mercury measures
strictly only the evaporating power of the air, as
the latter depends on the amount of moisture in

314 METEOROLOGICAL RECORD.

the atmosphere, and the depression of the wet bulb
of the thermometer indirectly measures the humid-
ity of the air.

The sanitary and the horticultural uses of the
hygrometer deserve more attention than they have
heretofore received. A hygrometer in our dwell-
ings and public halls would tell us at once whether
the requisite amount of moisture is present, for our
sensations cannot guide us in regard to humidity.

The fact that the quantity of vapor is least dur-
ing; the winter months, and that at the same time

O ' ^

the relative humidity is at its maximum, would to
most persons probably seem paradoxical. But the
relative humidity of the air depends not only on the
amount of vapor it contains, but also on its degree
of temperature.

The figures given in our tables for humidity is the
ratio which the vapor actually present in the at-
mosphere bears to the amount which it would con-
tain if it was saturated, that is, when there is
present the utmost quantity of water it can contain
in suspension.

Complete saturation is taken at 100, and it de-
creases from this to perfect dryness.

The difficulty we have experienced is from the
'want of tables calculated for low temperatures and
fractions of a degree.

The accompanying cut represents " Edson's

HYGRODEIK.

THE HYGRODEIK. 315

Hygrodeik," an instrument adapted to general use.
It differs from all other hygrometers in having a
dial and pointer, showing at a glance the tempera-
ture, the relative humidity, the dew point, the abso-
lute weight of vapor in cubic foot of air, and the
elastic force of aqueous vapor. Thus simplified, it
is adapted to meet every-day wants, and yet is sus-
ceptible of delicate adjustment for scientific pur-
poses. Its principal uses are as a guide, — out-
doors to aid in foretelling the weather, — in-doors
to preserve health ; and in manufactories and store-
houses, to prevent injury to goods or materials of
any kind, by shrinking, swelling, rust, mildew, or
any chemical change due to excess or deficiency of
moisture.

316

METEOROLOGICAL TABLES.

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METEOROLOGICAL TABLES.

317

NOVEMBER.

WINDS.

BAROGRAMS AT 32°.

j

a

§
a

1

a

L

q

d

FH

Date.

J*

&

.2*

&

0 «
33 «

&

8 •<

J

S i,

jj

QJ CM

J

.51-

I

§

|«

I

-— C5

a

i

7A.M.

2 P.M.

9 P. M.

Mean.

13

N.W.

24

N.W.

26

N.W.

22

23.264

23.424

23.180

23.289

14

W.

13

S.W.

42

S.W.

41

.298

.338

.324

.320

15

w.

5

W.

2

W.

1

.296

.364

.435

.365

16

vv^

14

W.

15

W.

28

.468

.471

.588

.509

17

w.

16

W.

14

w.

2

.695

.702

.693

.663

18

w.

4

S.W.

6

S.W.

5

.664

.552

.486

.567

19

w.

7

N.W.

11

N.W.

14

.314

.180

.158

.217

20

w.

16

W.

18

N.W.

2

.427

.483

.546

.485

21

w.

12

W.

15

S.W.

46

.561

.500

.511

.524

22

s.

1

s.

3

S.

35

.863

.865

.775

.834

23

s.

27

S.W.

26

S.W.

36

.406

.204

.124

.244

24

w.

78

N.W.

76

N.W.

68

.022

.096

.295

.137

25

N.W.

25

N.W.

14

N.W.

12

.581

.598

.568

.582

26

w.

4

N.W.

16

N.W.

26

.483

.189

.301

.324

27

N.W.

47

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METEOROLOGICAL TABLES.

339

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METEOROLOGICAL TABLES.

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METEOROLOGICAL TABLES.

341

DECEMBER.

TUERMOC.RAMS, 7 A. M.

THERM OGRAMS, 2 p. M.

THERMOGRAMS, 9 p. M.

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Mt. Washington ....
Montreal

MEANS OP MONTH.

. . 9.4 Lunenburg, Vt. .
. .24.3 Providence, B. I. .

. 21.8
. 31.8

342

METEOROLOGICAL TABLES.

JANUARY.

THERMOGRAMS, 7 A. M.

THERMOGRAMS, 2 P. M.

THERMOGRAMS, 9 p. M.

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36

Mt. Washington
Montreal . . .

MEANS OF MONTH.

. . 6.1 Luncnburg, Vt.
. .11.0 Providence, R. I.

. 13.5
. 25.6

METEOROLOGICAL TABLES.

343

FEBRUARY.

THERMOGRAMS, 7 A. M.

THERMOGRAMS, 2 p. M.

THERMOGRAMS, 9 P. M.

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12

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24

35

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38

36

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42

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45

47

26

22

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38

46

19

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55

13

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7

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35

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29

MEANS OP MONTH.

Mt. Washington 7.1

Montreal 18.0

Lunenburg, Vt.
Proyidence, R.I.

. 17.5
. 27.9

PAET FOTJETH.

WHAT THE WORLD SAID OF US.

HE members of the expedition whose his-
tory has been narrated in the foregoing
pages have been interested in what has
been said of them by the public. At their respect-
ive breakfast-tables they have often wondered what
was being said of them in hundreds of families

O

where they had reason to believe the previous
night's dispatch was being read aloud from the
morning journal.

From time to time there have appeared in the
newspapers references to our occupation of the sum-
mit, expressing the opinions of various writers, either
upon the facts reported or the general prospects of
the expedition. As these may represent the table-
talk of the morning, we have selected a few extracts
from the many before us, for preservation with our
record. As the tendency to burlesque is a national
American trait, we have been favored with a very
large proportion of articles of an amusing charac-

346 . WHAT THE WORLD SAID OF US.

ter, whose perusal has raised our spirits during some
of the dull days, when all was disagreeable without
and dark within.

For the entertainment of the mountain party a
card-basket was manufactured from birch bark
grown at the base of Mount Washington, orna-
mented with outline sketches and pithy remarks.
Both the sketches and quotations were intended as
prophetic, the latter having been uttered while the
project was yet untried, and the former designed
early in the winter. The conflicting opinions of the
doubters and believers in the ultimate success of
the enterprise appear in direct contrast. Our read-
ers may judge for themselves to which class the
true prophets belonged.

Early in 1870 the following item went the rounds
of the papers respecting the crime of one of the at-
tempts at climbing Moosilauke : —

" In wandering around trying to find the house
upon the summit, Mr. Huntington froze both feet
solid above the ankles, rendering amputation neces-
sary. His sufferings were of the most fearful de-
scription."

As an estimate of the way in which such a re-
port, if true, would have been held by many per-
sons, we quote an opinion expressed thus in our
hearing not long afterwards : —

" Now if they had crippled themselves in a noble

BIRCH CARD BASKET.

SHOWING WHAT TUB WORLD THINKS OP THE MT. WASHINGTON EXPEDITION.

Presented to 3. II. HUNTINGTON, Dec. 25th, 1870.

" O, wad some power the ttiflie pie us
To sec ourscls as ithers see ue."

RARE SNOW-FLAKE. 3-17

cause, they would have had something to sustain
them under the affliction ; but to deliberately thro\»
away health and the hopes of a life-time for a mere
nothing — so idiotic — so like a lunatic — perfectly
chimerical ! "

RARE SNOW-FLAKE.

On the sixth of January Mr. Nelson added to
the usual Press dispatch the following : " We noticed
a snow-flake this morning of an hitherto undescribed
form." Very shortly afterwards, the public read
the following : —

" A STARTLING DISCOVERY.

" A party of fossilized scientific maniacs are winter-
ing out on the top of Mount Washington, N. H.,
and a gaping world stands below in anticipation of
great discoveries !

" After laying in a good store of edibles and drink-
ables, and other little luxuries, such as playing cards
and cribbage boards (constructed on purely scien-
tific principles, accoi'ding to Hoyle), they have just
got to work on their startling discovery. We palpi-
tate as we record the first sensation which they
have condescended to let loose to the world. It is
that they have discovered a new and hitherto un-
known species of — snow-flake!

" What effect this tremendous discovery will have

348 WHAT THE WORLD SAID OF US.

on the subsequent development of the resources of
the country time alone can determine. It is barely
possible that this new snow-flake will be adopted all
over the country, and that the old-fashioned article
will be done away with altogether !

" If such should be the case, the country, and those
individuals who have provided these high old dad-
dies with their elaborate outfit, can congratulate
themselves on not having lived, or spent their
money in vain."

THE GREAT POWDER HOUSE MILL EXPEDITION.

A long account of the organization and equip-
ment of the expedition appeared with the above
title, from which we present the following extract : —

" That 19th of December will be long remem-
bered by those who had the good fortune to witness
the procession as it started for the summit. Each
individual of the party was dressed in a complete
suit of seal-skins, and bore an enormous flag with
the motto ' Excelsior ! ' A noble and fearless band
of martyrs to science ; determined to freeze or per-
ish in the attempt ! Next, after a feast worthy of
Dehnonico's, came our marvelous interesting obser-
vations, as soon as the party had reached the sum-
mit. During the journey up hill our best thermom-
eter was broken. This cast a gloom over the party,
until Professor Blowpipe with wonderful presence

TIP-TOP HOUSE IN A STORM. 349

of mind suggested that we should take turns in
standing out in the cold, and then ' guess ' in rela-
tion to the temperature. The historian tried it
first ; and after roosting on top of the old house
gave it as his deliberate opinion that it was about
71° below zero. The barometer was 42° in the
shade ; the velocity of the wind frightful to contem-
plate ; and before we had completed our first day's
experience, each individual member of the party
said that the ' Relative Stupidity ' of the whole
affair was at least ' 99 ' ! "

TIP-TOP HOUSE IN A STORM.

An illustrated weekly attempted to delineate the
residence of our party upon the summit when the
storm was raging. The building drawn was the
Tip-top House, which was not inhabited at all
during the winter, and a part of the text accom-
panying the illustration was the following : —

" The deep snows that obstruct the road to the
summit, and render it impassable for months, shut
them off as effectually from the rest of the world as
if they were floating on an iceberg, in that famous
polar main which you must first see to believe in —
only that they have the telegraph with which to
communicate with their fellow-men. The accounts
which they send us of the state of the atmosphere
are not exactly what old ladies call ' inviting.' It

350 WHAT THE WORLD SAID OF US.

is a singular fact, however, that the thermometer
indicates a less intense degree of cold on the very
summit of the mountain than prevailed during the
storm at Lowell and other places no further north.
The principal discomfort arises from the violence
of the wind.' "

RETARDATION OF SCIENCE.

" The progress of science in this country has ex-
perienced a heavy blow. We refer to the gale of
wind which the professors and others, encamped for
the winter on the summit of Mount Washington,
reported December 15th, its velocity being ninety-
two miles per hour."

EXHAUSTION OF SUPPLIES.

In January the sympathy of the public was ex-
cited by the following item : " Of the eleven tons
of coal taken up for the winter's stock of the me-
teorologists at the summit of Mount Washington,
over one half was consumed a week ago. Their

O

stove contains seven dampers (!), which during the
gales will not stop the draft and rattle fearfully."

A similar report prevailed in regard to the provis-
ions. The correspondent of the Boston " Journal,"
who visited the party early in February, promptly
denied the truth of these rumors, and they quickly
disappeared from sight. At the breaking up of the

" THE MAD PHILOSOPHERS." 351

expedition it was found that enough supplies were
on hand to maintain the Signal Service party for
several weeks.

" THE MAD MOUNT WASHINGTON PHILOSOPHERS.

" The scientific persons on the summit of Mount
Washington have temporarily abandoned the scien-
tific pastime of sliding down hill, the extreme cold-
ness of the weather having indicated euchre and
catch-penny — games which can be played within
doors — as more appropriate to the season than out-
of-door sports. One of their number, however,
whose name is said to be Smith, recently went forth
to ' measure the velocity of the wind, ' — a process
which we presume to be identical with the boyish
sport of kite- flying, — and after an exposure of five
minutes, returned to the house ' completely covered
with frost two inches in thickness.' We must be per-
mitted to have our doubts in regard to Smith. The
name itself has a suspicious look. There may be a
person of that name, but we wholly reject the theory
of a Smith coated with two inches of frost, and yet
sufficiently lively to telegraph his condition to an as-
tonished public. Much science has probably made
Smith mad. He doubtless labors under the delusion
that he is a sort of plum-pudding glace, and with that
method in his madness so often noticeable even in
unscientific lunatics, invents the hypothesis of an ac-

352 WHAT THE WORLD SAID OF US.

cident occurring while measuring the wind to ac-
count for his supposed condition. This theory
receives additional confirmation from the fact that
Smith voluntarily took up his abode on Mount
Washington, a course of conduct of which it is absurd
to suppose that a sane person would be guilty. No
right-minded man can excuse the scientific persons
who permitted Smith to expose himself by kite-fly-
ing with the mercury twenty -five below zero. Of
course no one would expect from them the same
practical common sense which we look for in unsci-
entific people, but it really was too thoughtless to
permit a scientific fellow-creature to venture out in
such extreme cold for the mad purpose of ' meas-
uring the wind.' It is time that some charitable
person should take measures to protect these un-
happy persons from their own mad selves."

" AN ICE MYSTERY OF SCIENCE.

" What has become of the scientific persons
who retired to Mount Washington at the beginning
of the winter to slide down hill and fly kites in
the interests of science ? Since the cold morning
some six weeks ago, we have heard no news of
them. It is therefore possible that they have fallen
victims to the inclemency of the weather, and are
now sitting stiff and cold around their extinguished
fire, holding in their icy hands the frozen cards

AN OFFICIAL REPORT! 353

wherewith they were playing strictly scientific
games when the frost-king called them."

We have space for only one other extract, which
purports to be the official report of the expedition,
addressed to the chief signal officer : —

" It was the original design of the expedition to
ascend the mountain early in November, but it
was finally thought fit to defer the ascent until
the mountains should become inaccessible. This
occurred on the 25th of that month. On the next
day, the roads being entirely impassable, the gentle-
men composing the expedition proceeded to make
the ascent, and starting from the Notch at seven
A. M., reached the summit at 4.38 p. M. A com-
modious hut had been erected for their accommoda-
tion, and was already well stocked with sextants,
quadrants, patent sounding lines, life-buoys, play-
ing cards, telescopes, demijohns, cold hams, diving-
bells, sleds, patent car-couples, kites, magnetic tele-
graphs, steam-engines, and other necessary scientific
apparatus. The entire expedition being quite ex-
hausted in point of legs by the exertions of the
ascent, immediately went to bed, without making
any observations except those of a strictly personal
nature. On the following day the secretary began
to keep a full diary of each day's proceedings, a
copy of which is hereby submitted.

" November 27. Height of thermometer 20° ;

354 WHAT THE WORLD SAID OF US.

barometer, 1.461. Mean direction of wind, north-
west. Greatest velocity of wind 2.40 per hour.
Weather clear, but cloudy. At ten A. M. the ex-
pedition was mustered for sliding down hill. It was
found by experiment that the sleds ran more rapidly
down hill than in the contrary direction, This
was accounted for by Professor Huntington upon
the theory of tittlebats, and an able paper upon the
subject was prepared and read by him the same
evening. (See Schedule A, annexed to this report.)

" November 29. Snow fell heavily to the depth as
measured in the pail standing at the northwest
corner of the Observatory, of ten feet. Professor
Smith, incautiously endeavoring to continue his
experiments in sliding down hill, was buried in the
snow. The expedition dug over some thirty acres
of snow in the attempt to find and extricate him,
but without success. Hot water was then sprinkled
over the snow until it melted, when the professor
was found, much exhausted, but full of ardor, he
fortunately having a pocket flask with him.

"December 5. Hailing violently. Professor Jones
became lost on the mountain, and hailed the other
members of the expedition for two consecutive hours
in vain. As they were listening to a paper on the
" Origin of MumblePeg," prepared and read by
Professor Hitchcork, no attention was paid to Pro-
fessor Jones. When he was finally discovered, he

THE MALLEABLE PROFESSOR. 355

was covered with a coating of ice three inches in
thickness, and of great purity. With a view to
making further experiments upon him, he was left
in an exposed position until morning, when he was
unfortunately found to be insensible. Boiling water
after a time proved efficacious in reviving him.
The coating of ice, however, seemed to have
rendered his nervous system peculiarly irritable.

" December 9. The application which had been
made to the Department at Washington for per-
mission to allow the wind at the summit to exceed
the velocity prescribed by Professor Maury, was
returned approved. During the evening chemical
experiments were made illustrating the ease with
which whiskey, water, cigars, and lemon can be made
to combine. The slight intoxicating effect of the
mixture was unanimously attributed to the lemon.
A paper enforcing that view was read by Professor
Wood.

" December 10. Wind north by west, blowing
with a velocity of one hundred and twenty miles
per minute. Professor Smith venturing to stand on
the windward side of the Observatory, was instantly
flattened against the boarding. He was spread out
over an area of eighteen square feet, and experienced
considerable inconvenience from the disarrangement
of his hair. Toward evening the wind lulled, and
he was carefully detached by knives, and laid upon

356 WHAT THE WORLD SAID OF US.

the shelf until means for his compression could be
devised.

" December 13. Another violent wind. The spare
shirt of the expedition, which was hung upon a line
in the rear of the observatory, was blown into narrow
strips. The question being raised, whether the
wind would have the same effect upon a human
being, it was resolved to secure a boy for the pur-
pose of trying the experiment.

" December 18. After each member of the expedi-
tion had read a paper upon the ' Malleability of
Scientific Persons, as exemplified in the flattening
of Professor Smith,' an attempt to compress that
gentlemen was made. He was laid upon the floor
and hammered, chiefly on his edges, by large sledge
hammers. After six hours of continuous hammering
he had regained nearly his former shape. He was
entirely satisfied with the result.

" January 1, 1871. The boy who had been sent
for — age sixteen, weight ninety pounds — arrived,
and he was fastened to the clothes line, the expedi-
tion sitting around him. The wind was blowing with
a velocity of three hundred miles in thirty-nine min-
utes. Such was its violence that the bottom was im-
mediately blown out of a tumbler, the mouth of
which had been presented to the wind. Professor
Nelson made a fine sketch in oil of the scene. In
eleven minutes. and eight seconds after the boy was

"DUCTILITY OF BOYS." 357

hung upon the line he was blown into shreds of not
more than the thickness of twine. The expedition
then returned into the Observatory, and in the even-
ing Professor Jones read an admirable paper upon
the ' Ductility of Boys.'

" March 10. The last of the assimilating fluids
was exhausted, and the expedition voted unanimously
to descend the mountain."

APPENDIX.

SUBSCRIBERS TO THE MOUNT WASHINGTON
EXPEDITION.

Nathaniel Thayer
John Cummings • . .
Smithsonian Institution

$100.00
50.00

. 50.00
30.00

SUBSCRIBERS TO THE AMOUNT OF TWENTY-FIVE DOLLARS.

C. J. Sprague, Kemble & Hastings, J. M. Forbes, Fuller,
Dana, & Fitts, J. L. Little, and M. R. Ropes & Co., of Bos-
ton, and Frederick Billings, of Woodstock, Vt.

SUBSCRIBERS TO THE AMOUNT OF TWENTY DOLLARS.

John Ball, Grand Rapids, Mich. ; S. N. Bell, Manchester,
N. II. ; L. H. Stone, Auburndale, Mass. ; M. Brimmer, Blake
Brothers, and H. Hunnewell, of Boston.

The following presented sums less than twenty and more
than ten dollars : —

Pond & Dunklee, and W. K. Lewis & Brothers, of Boston ;
Onslow Stearns, Concord, N. H.

SUBSCRIBERS TO THE AMOUNT OF TEN DOLLARS.

Alpheus Crosby, John Bertram, George Peabody, and
Moses A. Farmer, of Salem, Mass. ; Edwin Stoughton, Wind-

APPENDIX. 359

sor, Vt. ; H. A. Ward, Rochester, N. Y. ; Thaddeus Fair-
banks, Horace Fairbanks, Franklin Fairbanks, and W. P.
Fairbanks, of St. Johnsbury, Vt.; Geo. B. McCarter, Wash-
ington, D. C. ; Charles Marsh, Woodstock, Vt. ; Arthur C.
Page, Eastman, Ga. ; Gyles Merrill, St. Albans, Vt. ; L. B.
Ward, Providence, R. I. ; J. C. Delano, New Bedford, Mass. ;
I. A. Laphain, Milwaukee, Wis. ; Nathaniel White, \Varde,
Humphrey, & Co., George A. Blanchard, Abbott, Downing,
& Co., McFarland & Jenks, E. C. Eastman & Co., and the
" Daily Monitor," of Concord, N. H. ; Edward L. Wilson,
Philadelphia ; Henry M. Mansur, L N. Andrews, H. P. Parker
& Co., M. H. Stimpson, Tower, Giddings, & Torrey, E.

Whitney, Edward Austin, W and C , G. Higgin-

son, Fields, Osgood, & Co., H. N. Clark & Co., Little, Brown,
& Co., R. H. Stearns, Chauncey Smith, Freeland, Beard, &
Richardson, J. W. Edmonds, S. D. Warren, John J. May,
Whitton & Brothers, George Howe, W. Endicott, Jr., J. H.
Lowell, William Perkins, John T. Bradlee, J. H. Pray, Son,
& Co., and G. B. Putnam, of Boston ; Rev. S. P. Leeds, of
Hanover, N. H.

OTHER SUBSCRIBERS AND FRIENDS.

Our list shows the names of fifty-three persons, largely
from Boston, who contributed sums less than ten dollars. To
tlu-se should be added twenty-five other persons who signed
themselves " C^sh " on the subscription book.

The following firms and individuals have aided us in very
important ways, often saving us the expenditure of large sums
of money, besides contributing supplies of various kinds : —

Signal Service, War Department, U. S. Army.

Boston, Lowell, and Nashua Railroad.

Concord Railroad.

Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad.

360 APPENDIX.

Mt. Washington Railway Company.

Western Union Telegraph Company.

California Wine Company.

Sylvester Marsh, Littleton, N. H.

James Green, New York City.

Hamilton A. Hill, Secretary Board of Trade, in Boston.

Henry Edwards, Boston.

INDEX.

Abortive effort, 10.

Alpine region of Mount Washing-
ton, 3-1.

Altitudes, 29 ; of Mount Washing-
ton, 31 ; obtained, 41.

Arctic climate of Mount Washing-
ton, 32.

Approaches to Mount Washington,
60.

Ascent of Mount Washington in
winter, 101 ; of November 30,
103 ; of February 8, 112.

Aiken, Walter, 71.

A iken, Charles L., 14, 71.

Aurora, 147, 173, 242.

Adams, Mount, 231.

A day's tramp amid the clouds,
270.

Abbe, Prof., 283.

An ice mystery of science, 352.

Arctic and Mount Washington cli-
mate compared, 305.

Hall, Dr. B. L., 47, 114.
IVittle of the clouds, 275.
IJemis, Dr. S. A , 41.
Boulders on Mount Washington,

73.

Boulders on Moosilauke, 90.
Bourne Monument, 46, 102, 110.
Botany of Mount Washington, 33,

38."

Brakes, 69, 78.

Bombardment of ice, 167, 178, 192.

Burbeck, C., 219.

Bureau of Telegrams, 282.

Casualties on Mount Washington,.

46.

Carriage road, 15, 61.
Champlain Lake, 1.
Christinas, 171.
Clement, James, 88.
Cloud views, 91, 97, 172, 175, 178,

196, 219, 258, 288, 291.
Clough, A. F., 5, 18, 23, 90, 93, 99,

103, 108, 133, 168, 213, 216, 302.
Cogswell, 113, 189.
Cog-rail, 67, 81.
Coldest weather, 177, 182, 185.
Corona, 172, 178, 222, 224.
Culver Hall, 21.
Crawford, Abel, 39, 40; E. A., 39,

40, 43, 60 ; bridle-path, 60 ;

House, 46.

Commerce benefited, 16.
Circulars, 7, 16.
Chandler, Benjamin, 47, 114.
Card -basket, 346.

Difficulties, 13.
Depot, construction of, 157.
Descent, perilous. 98.
Door blown in, 165.

362

INDEX.

Early history of expedition, 1.

Exploration of White Mountains,
36.

Engine, 68, 70, 80.

Electrical phenomena, 151.

Experience against expedition, 58.

Excitements on Mount Washing-
ton, 155.

Exhaustion of supplies, 350.

Early winter visits to Mount Wash-
ington, 50.

Funds raised, 17.

Field, C. A., 21.

Field, Darby, 36.

First visit to Mount Washington,
36.

First ladies on Mount Washington,
39.

First house on Mount Washington,
43.

First winter visit to Mount Wash-
ington, 51.

Fabyan House, 45.

Fabyan Turnpike, 61, 64.

Frost-work, 285.

Gates, G. W., 20.

Geological survey, 4, 24, 27.

Glen House, 46.

Grant, Pres., visit to railway, 85.

Giant's Grave, 40, 45, 60, 65.

Gales, 93, 177, 183, 192, 200.

Henry, Prof., 2.

Hitchcock, C. H., 1, 4, 7, 9, 11, 13,

15, 20, 23, 27, 111, 164, 169, 196,

219,257,264, 266,270.
Hitchcock. Col., 4, 6, 44.
Huntington, J. H., 2, 4, 8, 12, 14,

20,23, 87, 113,133, 137, 147, 163,

174, 187, 206, 252, 302.
Holden, L. L., 112, 156, 189, 225,

229, 236, 238.

House creaks, 167, 184.
Hall, Alonzo, 219.
Hill, Rev. Pres., 28.

Instruments used, 310.
Ice columns, 96.

Jackson, Dr. C. T., 29, 39.
Jacob's Ladder, 67, 72, 83, 107,

150, 152.
Journal by Huntington, 163 ; by

Kimball, 137 ; by Wilson, 169.

Kimball, H. A., 18, 23, 103, 136,
169 ; almost another monument,
108.

Kerite wire. 9, 10, 15, 148 ; re-
paired, 152, 174, 187, 199.

Kilburn, B. W., 208.

Life on the summit, 155.
Litigation about summit, 45.
Laying the cable, 148.
Little, William, 5, 130.

Moosilauke, 5, 87, 136.
Mount Cenis Railway, 75.
Myer, General, 9, 19.
Members of the expedition, 23.
Maps of the White Mountains, 27.
Model of White Mountains, by

Pres. Hill, 23.
Model of White Mountains, by C.

II. Hitchcock, 28.
Mount Washington, height of, 31.
Mount Washington, origin of

name, 38.
Mount Washington Railway, 62 ;

building of, 66 ; route of, 71 ;

officers, 77.
Mount Washington, shadow of,

171, 176.
Measuring the wind, 93, 174, 177,

183, 191.

INDEX.

363

Mad Mount Washington philoso-
phers, 351.

Marsh, Sylvester, 7, 63, 77, 82, 83.
Marshfield, 61, 105, 149, 166, 189.

Noyes, 48.

Notch House, 45.

Naming of mountain peaks, 41.

Nelson, S. A., 11, 23, 169, 257, 267,

270.
Nutter, Mr., 210.

Osgood, Sheriff, 51.

Powder House Mill Expedition, 348.
Patents of Mr. Marsh, 77.
Photographing, 132, 142.
Pendulum, 177.
Pulse by telegraph, 196.
Photographers, 18.
Physical character of White Moun-
tains, 24.

Reports for benefit of commerce,

282.

Righi, Mount, Railway, 76.
Riiilway, Mount Washington. (See

Mount Washington.)
Railway depot, 6, 14.
Rogers, Dr., 210.
Rare snow-flakes, 347.
Retardation of science, 350.

Sable, 140, 170.

Smithsonian Institution, 2.

Signal service, 9, 146.

Smith, Theodore, 19, 28,140, 149,

168, 171, 174, 176.
Summit House, 43.
Spaulding, J. H.,44, 52.
Shadow of Mount Washington,

175, 176.

Sanborn, J. J.. 67.
Sliding down hill, 74, 176.

Strickland, 46.

Sunrises, 137, 170, 175, 178, 264.

Scientific dispatch, 197.

Stoves, smoking, 167.

Storms, 301.

Startling discovery, 347.

Telegrapher, 19, 22 ; telegraphing,
146 ; from Hanover, 20, 249.

Topography of the mountains, 25.

Tuckerman, E., 33, 36, 39, 42.

Tip-top House, application for, 3 ;
refused, 6, 44.

Turkey, 190.

Twin River Farm, 65.

Tuckerman's Ravine, 124, 217,
267.

Tower on Mount Washington, 50.

Tip-top House in a storm, 349.

Thawing and freezing, 353.

Thompson, Eben 252.

Visitors to Mount Washington, 39.

View from Moosilauke, 40, 94.

Views from Mount Washington
northward and eastward, 118 ;
oceanward, 123, 260 ; southward
and westward, 126 ; into Great
Gulf, 119 ; up the Androscog-
gin, 121 ; towards Winnipiseo-
gee, 127 ; down the Ammonoo-
sue, 127.

White Mountain Range, 24.
Winds, severe, 141, 165, 169, 171,

174, 176, 178, 180, 182, 184, 191,

197, 29-3. 294.

Windows broken, 178, 192.
Western Union Telegraph Co.,

154, 193.

Waumbek Junction, 66, 71.
White Mountain House, 45.
Wilson, E. L., 208.
What the world said of us, 345.

THE WHITE HILLS,

— THEIR —

LEGENDS, LANDSCAPE, AND POETRY.

BY THOS. STARR KING.

" The object of this volume is to direct attention to the noble
landscapes that lie along the routes by which the White Moun-
tains are now approached by tourists, many of which are still un-
known to travellers ; to help persons appreciate landscape more
adequately, and to associate with the principal scenes poetic pas-
sages which illustrate either the permanent character of the views,
or some peculiar aspect in which the author of the book has seen
them."

In a notice of the last edition, the BOSTON POST says : " It is now
eleven years since these sketches of our most beautiful New Eng-
land Scenery were first published, in which time they have by no
means lost their freshness, but rather gained in interest as the ac-
quaintance with the scenes which they describe has become more
general. — They are too well known and too universally admired to
need commendation at this late day, but the exquisite style in
which they are now issued adds a new feature to their beauty.
There are few subjects, or few treatments of any subject, which
afford such opportunities for artistic embellishment as this, and the
poetry and sentiment of Mr. King's sketches beautifully embalm
the accompanying gems of art. These consist of a number of
very fine photographs of different scenes among the White Moun-
tains, and sixty beautifully engraved woodcuts. The photographs
are not only valuable for their fidelity, but remarkably well selec-
ted for picturesque effect, while the woodcuts are exquisitelv
drawn and engraved.

Together the pictures make an illustrated gallery of the White
Mills as pleasant as Mr. King's essays. The whole style of the
book is in keeping. The letter press is clear and fine, and the im-
pressions of the woodcuts are faultless."

Cloth, 8vo., Bev. edges, gilt top, 60 illustrations, • $3.50
Half calf with 60 illustrations and photographs, - 6.00
Morocco " - 9.00

CHICK & ANDREWS,

21 FRANKLIN ST., BOSTON.

HISTORY

— OF THE —

WHITE MOUNTAINS,

BY BENJ. G. WILLEY.

The author was a brother to the unfortunate occu-
pant of the well known " Willey House," who with all
his family were distroyed by the memorable slides of
August, 1826

It contains the fullest account ever written of the
Slides and the destruction of the Willey Family. Among
other illustrations it contains one from Thos. Hill's cel-
ebrated painting representing the notch the morning
after the slides. It is the fullest and most complete
history of the Mountains ever published, and contains
many interesting anecdotes of the earlier settlers, with
many of the Indian legends and traditions.

i Vol., i6mo cloth, illustrated, . , $1.50

CHRISTUS JIIDEX,

BY EDWARD ROTH.

A very interesting and charming legend of that curi-
ous freak of nature known as the " GREAT STUNK FACE,"
or " The Old Man of the Mountains.'' No one who
has looked upon the cold massive features of the origi-
nal should fail to read this story.

i Vol., cloth, $1.00

CHICK & ANDREWS, PUHLISHERS,

21 FRANKLIN ST., BOSTON.

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