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I
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
Agric. Ref. Bv.
GIFT OF
Estate of
David Prescott Barrows
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PHILADELPHIA
COOK BOOK
A MANUAL
OF
HOME ECONOMIES
BY
MRS S TyRORER
PRINCIPAL OF PHILADELPHIA COOKING SCHOOL
PHILADELPHIA
ARNOLD AND COMPANY
420 LIBRARY STREET
Copyright 1886 by MRS S T RORER
All Rights Reserved
GIFI
MADE BY
GEORGE H BUCHANAN AND COMPANY
420 LIBRARY STREET 420
TO MY FRIEND
MRS ELIZA S TURNER
THROUGH WHOSE ENERGY AND LIBERALITY
WAS ESTABLISHED
THE FIRST COOKING SCHOOL
IN PHILADELPHIA
THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED
433
"Men die, and many, because they know not
how to live ' '
" Come, pilgrim, I will bring you where you
shall host"
ALL'S WELL THAT ENDS WELL
CONTENTS
PREFACE . . . . . vii
SOUPS ..... i
STOCK AND STOCK SOUPS . . 2
SOUPS WITHOUT STOCK . . . 23
FISH SOUPS . . . . 29
CHOWDERS . . .. . 34
FISH . . . . . 41
SHELL FISH . . . . . 55
MEATS . . , . 79
BEEF . 82
MUTTON . . . . . 112
LAMB . . . . . 121
VEAL . . . . . 122
PORK . . . . . 142
WHAT TO SAVE AND How TO USE IT 157
POULTRY . . . . .165
GAME ..... 202
FORCEMEATS AND STUFFINGS . . 219
MEAT AND FISH SAUCES AND GRAVIES . 221
STOCK FOR SAUCES AND GRAVIES . . 222
SALADS ..... 233
MODERN DINNER-GIVING . . . 247
MENUS ..... 249
EGGS '. . . . .253
VEGETABLES . . . . 261
BREAD . . . . .311
vi PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
RAISED ROLLS, BISCUITS, ETC. . . 322
RAISED MUFFINS, GEMS, ETC. . . 326
RAISED WAFFLES AND GRIDDLE CAKES 328
QUICK MUFFINS, WAFFLES AND GRIDDLE CAKES 331
SODA AND MILK BISCUITS . . 337
FRITTERS, DOUGHNUTS AND CRULLERS . 341
CEREALS . . . . 351
MACARONI . . . . 358
CHEESE ..... 363
To COOKS ..... 367
PASTRY AND PIES . . . 371
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS . . . 389
PUDDING SAUCES .... 436
ICE CREAMS .... 445
WATER- ICES AND SHERBETS . . 458
JELLIES ..... 467
PLAIN CAKES, BUNS, ETC. . . 475
FANCY CAKES .... 480
CANDIES ..... 509
FRUIT . . . . .513
CANNING AND PRESERVING . . 519
MARMALADES . . . .523
PICKLING . . . . . 526
CATSUPS . . . . .532
DRINKS ..... 539
IN THE KITCHEN AND PANTRY . . 5/1/1
GATHERED CRUMBS . . . 549
How . . . . . 554
SUITABLE COMBINATIONS OF FOOD . 560
TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES . . 563
INDEX ..... 565
PREFACE
To offer to the American housewives a new Cook
Book may appear to many an unnecessary labor, con-
sidering the country is already provided with elaborate
works on the subject; but upon referring to many of
them, I have often detected an obscurity in directions
in recipes which, in the hands of an amateur, would
lead to failure, and have in the following recipes
endeavored to avoid this by making them so plain,
that a beginner may successfully make, with few
exceptions, any dish contained herein, and I may add,
all these recipes have been prepared over and over
again by pupils under my supervision.
It has been many years since Philadelphia has
contributed a publication of this kind, and as she
occupies a place second to none in the science, her
peculiar dishes being known not only in this country
but abroad as well, it seems appropriate that she should
be newly represented.
(vii)
viii PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Under each heading I have endeavored to give in
a simple manner a brief introduction, explaining the
chemistry of the article, mode of selecting, and such
other information as I thought would be of interest
to the reader.
References to Sick Diet or Medicated Food
have purposely been avoided, as there is in prepara-
tion a work on Dietetics, which will contain all the
recipes collected and tried during my connection with
hospitals.
" Before the housewife now my book is laid
' T will aid her, if its teachings be obeyed."
SARAH T RORER
1525 CHESTNUT STREET, PHILADELPHIA
SOUPS
The first and most important point in making good soup
is to have the best of materials. To make our soup a
perfect food we must change the solid meat into a liquid
form ; to do this, we must first soften the fibrin, so as to draw
out the juices and blood, consisting of albumen and fat ;
the gelatine, which exists in the bone, cartilages, membranes
and skin, which is nitrogenous matter, but not nutritious;
and the osmazome, that substance which gives odor and
flavor. As a low degree of heat changes the albumen
(which is exactly similar to the white of an egg} into a solid
form, we at once see the necessity of using cold soft water.
Soft water, because it makes its way into the tissues more
readily than hard water, thereby softening the texture of
the meat and allowing the juices to escape more easily ; and
we also see the importance of not boiling the soup, as the
albumen on the surface of the meat immediately coagulates
and prevents the gelatine, fat and osmazome from dissolving
and being drawn out into the water. Salt should never be
added until the soup is done, as it hardens the water; and
we have found that soft water is the best. As the water
begins to heat a small portion of albumen coagulates, form-
ing a fine fibrous net throughout the liquid entangling any
substance that may be floating in it, bringing it first to the
W
2 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
surface and then settling to the bottom, showing that we
must watch and skim at this time to have a clear soup.
You will notice that in the recipes for Consomme and
Bouillon, to clarify, we boil after adding the whites of the
eggs, thereby making a perfectly clear soup, but a stimulant
rather than nutrient, as we rob it of its albumen and fibrin
by boiling and straining; two things which cannot exist at
the same time, a very clear and a very nutritious soup.
Another very important point is to have a porcelain-
lined or better still a granite iron soup kettle with a close
cover. Why? Because the juices of the meat are always
acid and will act upon a metallic kettle thereby giving the
soup an inky, bitter taste. A close cover to keep in the
steam and prevent evaporation and also to keep the dust
and smoke out.
SOUPS FROM STOCK
SOUP STOCK
i shin of beef 2 bay leaves
5 quarts of cold water i sprig of parsley
i onion 12 cloves
i carrot i stalk of celery
i turnip i tablespoonful of salt
Lean, uncooked juicy beef should form the basis of your
soup. No cooked or stale meats should be used for clear
stock. Wipe the meat well with a damp towel ; now cut all
the meat from the bones. Place the bones in the bottom
of a large porcelain-lined or granite soup kettle, lay the
meat on top of them, add the water and stand the kettle on
the back part of the range for one hour ; then place it over
a good fire. After about thirty minutes, the scum of the
meat will gather on the surface, and the water will begin to
SOUPS 3
steam. Now place it over a more moderate fire, add one
cup of cold water, and skim off the scum. Now cover the
kettle closely and let it simmer (not boil) for four hours;
then add the vegetables and simmer one hour longer. Then
strain the stock through a fine sieve, add the salt and stand at
once in a cold place to cool. If you keep it in a warm place
for a few hours it will not make a nice jelly. When cold,
take all the grease from the surface, and it is ready for use.
BARLEY SOUP
2 tablespoon fuls of pearl barley
i quart of stock
Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the barley in cold water; then cover it with boiling
water, let it boil up once and drain it. Cover it again
with boiling water and simmer it for two hours. Drain ;
add to the stock when boiling ; let it stand on the back part
of the range for ten minutes ; add salt and pepper, and serve.
BLACK BEAN SOUP
i pint of turtle beans 2 hard-boiled eggs
T.i/2 quarts of boiling water i lemon
i quart of stork Salt and pepper to taste
If you use wine, i gill
Wash the beans well in cold water and soak them over
night. In the morning, drain the water off and cover them
again with one quart of the boiling water. Boil until tender,
about two hours. Now add the stock and the pint of boil-
ing water. Press the whole through a sieve; wash the
kettle, return the soup and bring it to a boil ; add salt and
pepper. Cut the eggs and lemon into slices and put into the
tureen, pour the boiling soup over,and serve.
If wine is used, put it in the tureen with the lemon and
egg-
4 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
DRIED BEAN SOUP
I pint dried beans i quart of stock
Y^, pound of ham i^ quarts of boiling water
Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the beans and soak them over night. In the morn-
ing drain the water off, and cover them again with the
boiling water; add the ham and boil gently two hours.
Now add the stock. Press the beans through a sieve, return
them to the soup kettle and bring to a boil. Add salt and
pepper, and serve with toasted bread.
DRIED BEAN SOUP WITHOUT MEAT
1 quart of dried white soup beans
2 quarts of water
i large tablespoonful of butter
Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the beans, cover them with water and soak over night.
Next morning, drain, put them on to boil with two quarts of
fresh cold water. As soon as they come to a boil, drain this
water off and throw it away, this prevents the soup from being
strong. Now cover again with two quarts of fresh boiling
water, add a quarter of a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda,
and boil until reduced to a pulp. Now press the beans
through a sieve, return to the soup kettle and add sufficient
water to make the soup about the consistency of cream,
add the salt, pepper and butter and serve with croutons.
CLEAR SOUP WITH CROUTONS
i quart of stock
y>, pint of croutons
Salt and white pepper to taste
To make the croutons, cut stale bread into thin slices,
spread it lightly with butter on one side, then cut into
dice. (It will take about three slices from a baker's square
SOUPS 5
five cent loaf.) Place them on a tin pie dish, and put them
in a moderate oven until a golden brown.
Melt the stock gradually, bring it to boiling point, add
salt and pepper. Serve soup in a tureen with croutons on
a separate dish. If you put them in the soup when you
dish it, they will become heavy and waxy before it reaches
the dining room.
If the soup is too light, color it with caramel. (See
recipe for making it.)
CLEAR VEGETABLE SOUP
2 quarts of stock
i quart of boiling water
i small carrot
i turnip
i sweet potato
white potato
ear of corn
cupful of peas
cupful of beans
tomato
i tablespoon ful of rice or barley
Put the water into a soup kettle, cut the vegetables into
pieces of uniform size, otherwise the smaller ones will dis-
solve and impair the transparency of the soup. (There are
various small tin cutters that can be purchased for this pur-
posi'.) Put the carrot and turnip on rd boil; after they
have boiled one hour, add all the other vegetables and rice
and boil until tender. Now add the stock, and salt and
pepper to taste. Let it boil up once and serve.
JULIENNE SOUP
2 quarts of stock 2 onions or 6 young leeks
2 carrots i head of cauliflower
T turnip' i head of lettuce
The white part of ^ a gill of green peas
a head of celery ^ a gill of asparagus heads
Scrape and cut the carrots into slices, then into dice or with
the vegetable cutters. Pare and cut the turnip ; slice the
6 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
onions, cut the celery into pieces about half-inch long,
and the head of cauliflower into flowerets. Put them into
a kettle, cover with boiling water, and boil fifteen minutes ;
then drain them in a colander.
Melt the stock and bring it to a boil ; put the vege-
tables from the colander into it and simmer half an hour.
Put the peas and asparagus heads into boiling water and
simmer them for twenty minutes ; then drain and add them
to the boiling soup, then the lettuce, cut into pieces the
size of a half-dollar (the lettuce should cook about ten
minutes) ; add salt and pepper, and serve at once.
LENTIL SOUP
1 pint of lentils Sprig of thyme
2 quarts of stock i bay leaf
i onion i tablespoon ful of butter
Sprig of parsley Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the lentils and soak them over night. In the morn-
ing drain off the water, add the stock and simmer gently
until the lentils are tender, about one and a half hours.
Put the butter into a frying-pan and, when melted, add the
onion cut in slices, parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Fry
(saute) until brown. Now add these to the lentils and
simmer a half hour longer. Now press the whole through
a sieve.
Return it to the soup kettle, boil up once, add salt and
pepper and serve with toasted bread cut into small squares.
MACARONI SOUP
i ounce of macaroni
i quart of stock
Salt and pepper to taste
Break the macaroni into pieces about two inches long ; put
it into a stewing-pan and cover it with one quart of boiling
SOUPS 7
water. Boil it for twenty minutes, drain and cut each
piece in two. Melt the stock, bring it to boiling point,
add the macaroni, let it simmer five minutes, add salt and
pepper and serve. A plate of Parmesan may be served
with this if liked.
NOODLE SOUP (Beef)
2 quarts of stock
The quantity of noodles given in recipe for noodles
Salt and pepper
Melt the stock, then bring it to boiling point, add the
noodles; boil fifteen minutes; add salt and pepper and
serve at once.
If you use the bought noodles, four ounces will be
sufficient. Boil and make just the same.
ONION SOUP
1 large Spanish or three Bermudas 2 quarts of stock
2 tablespoonfuls of butter Salt and pepper
Peel and chop the onion into dice. Put the butter in a
frying pan; when hot, add the onions and stir until a nice
brown. Put the stock on to boil; when it boils, skim the
onions out of butter and add them to the stock, let them
simmer, for thirty minutes, add salt and pepper and it is
ready to serve.
RICE SOUP
2 tablespoonfuls of rice
i quart of stock
Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the rice and put it in a sauce-pan with one pint of
boiling water, boil slowly for thirty minutes ; drain and
add to boiling stock. Let the whole boil five minutes, add
salt and pepper and serve.
8 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
SAGO SOUP
2 quarts of stock
2 ounces of sago
Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the sago through several waters, then cover it with
warm water and let it soak for one hour. Melt the
stock and bring it to boiling point. Drain the sago, add
it to the stock ; let it boil slowly half an hour, stirring
very often to prevent scorching. Add salt and pepper,
and serve.
SORREL SOUP
2 tablespoonfuls of butter i quart of stock
i pint of sorrel Yolks of two eggs
Salt and pepper to taste
Put the butter in a sauce-pan, set it on the fire, and as
soon as melted, put the sorrel in, and stir one minute ; then
add the stock, salt and pepper ; boil three minutes. Beat
the yolks lightly, put them into the tureen, pour the boiling
soup over gradually, stirring all the whiJe till thoroughly
mixed. Serve with croutons.
SPLIT PEA SOUP
i pint of split peas i quart of stock
i)^ quarts of boiling water Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the peas in cold water (rejecting those which float)
and soak them over night. In the morning drain the
water off and cover them again with one quart of the boil-
ing water. Boil until tender, about one and a half hours.
Now add the stock and the one pint of boiling water. Press
the whole through a sieve ; wash the soup kettle, return the
soup, boil up once, add salt and pepper and serve with
croutons. Dried pea soup may be made in exactly the
same manner, using one pint of dried peas instead of the
split ones.
SOUPS 9
TOMATO SOUP No. i
i quart can or one quart i stalk celery
of stewed tomatoes i bay leaf
i quart water or stock 2 tablespoon fills of butter
i onion 4 tablespoon fuls of flour
i carrot % pound of ham
Cut the ham into dice and the onion into slices and fry
them together until brown, then put them into a large
saucepan with the water, bay leaf, celery and carrot ; let
the whole simmer for one hour ; then add the tomatoes and
simmer again for three-quarters of an hour. Now press
the tomatoes through a sieve. Rub the butter and flour
together until smooth, add it to the boiling soup, and stir
constantly until it boils ; add salt and pepper and serve
with croutons.
TOMATO SOUP No. 2
i quart can or one quart of stewed tomatoes
i pint of stock or water (first the best)
1 tablespoonful of butter
^ teaspoonful of baking soda
2 tablespoon fuls of corn starch or flour
i teaspoonful of sugar
r small onion
Sprig of parsley
i bay leaf
Salt and pepper to taste
Put the tomatoes in a saucepan with the bay leaf, parsley,
onion, and stock or water. Let all stew for fifteen min-
utes. Now press, them through a sieve fine* enough to
remove the seeds. Wash the saucepan, return the toma-
toes to it. Put it on the fire to boil. Rub the butter and
corn starch or flour together until smooth, and stir into the
soup when boiling. Stir constantly until smooth. Now
add salt, pepper, sugar and soda. Serve immediately with
croutons.
10 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
TURKISH SOUP (Miss Dodd)
i quart of stock Yolks of two eggs
YZ teacupful of rice i tablespoonful of cream
Salt and pepper to taste
Boil together for twenty minutes the rice and stock ; then
press them through a sieve and return them to the kettle.
Beat the yolks well and add to them the cream. Add this
to the stock and rice, and stir it over the fire for two min-
utes, but do not allow it to boil. Add salt and pepper,
and it is ready to serve.
VERMICELLI SOUP
Vermicelli soup is made exactly the same as beef noodle
soup, using four ounces of vermicelli instead of noodles.
MEAT AND VEGETABLE SOUPS
ALBERT SOUP
i four-pound chicken 2 quarts of cold water
4 good-sized potatoes i onion
i tablespoonful of butter i bay leaf
Yolks of two eggs Sprig of parsley
A grating of nutmeg Salt and pepper to taste
Clean the chicken, put it in the soup kettle with the water,
bay leaf, onion and parsley, and simmer gently two
hours. Take out the chicken and remove the white meat,
which chop very fine. Put the bones and the remainder
of the chicken back into the kettle to simmer, while the
potatoes are roasting. When the potatoes are done, take
out the centres and mash well. Add to them the chopped
meat of the chicken, butter, nutmeg, yolks of eggs, a quar-
ter of a teaspoon ful of salt, and a little pepper. Mix all
SOUPS 11
well together. Form into balls about a half-inch in diam-
eter, then fry them in butter until a light brown. Put
them into the soup tureen. Strain the soup, skim all the
fat from the surface, season with salt and pepper, let it boil
up once, pour it over the balls and serve immediately.
Should you be obliged to keep this soup waiting, allow
the soup to remain hot in the kettle, and place the balls
where they will keep warm. Put together at serving time.
BOUILLON FOR PARTIES AND GERMANS
2 pounds of lean beef i stalk of celery, or
i quart of cold water half teaspoon ful
i small onion of celery seed
i bay leaf Sprig of parsley
Free the meat from all fat and gristle and chop it fine
(your butcher can do this best). Put the meat in the Soup
kettle with the water, bay leaf, parsley, onion and celery ;
cover the kettle closely and place it on the back part of
the range for two hours. Then place it over a good fire ;
skim at the first boil. Now place it over a moderate fire
and simmer gently four hours. Strain, return it to the
soup kettle, add salt and pepper. Beat the white of one
egg with half a cup of cold water until thoroughly mixed.
Wash the egg shell, mash it and add it to the white. In
breaking the egg, take care to separate it so nicely that
none of the yellow gets into the white as the smallest por-
tion of the yellow will prevent the bouillon from being
perfectly clear. Now add the white, shell and water to the
boiling bouillon ; let it boil hard for ten minutes ; then
throw in one gill of cold water and boil five minutes longer;
then take the kettle off the fire and strain through a flannel
bag, add salt to taste and color with caramel about
half a teaspoonful to a quart. (See recipe for Caramel.)
12 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
CALF'S HEAD SOUP
i calf's head i small carrot
3 quarts of cold water Sprig of parsley
4 cloves i bay leaf
i onion Sprig of sweet marjoram
Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the head well through three waters; scald it; wash it
again in cold water, and soak it fifteen minutes. Be sure
that throat and nasal passages are perfectly clean. Now
put it into a soup kettle with the cold water. Bring it
slowly to a boil and let it simmer gently for five hours,
skimming it carefully until no more scum rises. Put in
the vegetables and spices one hour before the soup is
done. When done, strain and stand away to cool. Do
this the day before you want to use it; when cool, remove
all the fat from the surface. Make force-meat balls as fol-
lows : one cup of meat from the head, chopped fine; add
to it a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the grated peel
of half a lemon, one raw egg, one tablespoonful of flour,
half a teaspoonful of salt and a little black pepper. Mix
well and form into little balls the size of a hickory nut.
Fry them in butter until a golden brown.
When ready to use bring the soup to boiling point, sea-
son with a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, salt and
pepper. Put into a two-quart stewing-pan two ounces (two
tablespoonfuls) of butter, and when it bubbles, stir in two
heaping tablespoonfuls of flour. Mix well, add to this the
soup, stir constantly until it boils. Put the force-meat balls
into the tureen, pour over the boiling soup and, if you
use it, add one glass of Sherry or Madeira. The brains
should be taken out of the head before boiling. They
can be used for another dish. (See recipe for cooking
calf's brains.)
SOUPS 13
CHICKEN SOUP No. i
i chicken weighing four pounds i bay leaf
3 quarts of cold water Sprig of parsley
1 small onion */ cup of rice
Salt and pepper to taste
Clean the chicken, put it in a soup kettle with the cold
water, stand it on a moderate fire and bring it slowly to
boiling point. Skim carefully. Let it simmer slowly, till
the flesh drops to pieces, about three hours. Now add the
onion, bay leaf, parsley, and simmer fifteen minutes. Now
strain it. Wash the kettle and return the soup; add salt,
pepper, and the rice, well washed. Cover the kettle and
let it boil thirty minutes and it is ready to serve.
CHICKEN SOUP No. 2
Take one old fowl weighing five pounds, cover it with three
(jiiarts of cold water, and simmer four hours or until the
chicken is tender. After the chicken has been boiling two
hours, add a tablespoonful of salt, a half cup of rice, a
small onion. Serve the chicken whole with egg sauce ; add
pepper only to the soup.
CONSOMME
2 pounds of lean beef Stalk of celery
2 pounds of veal Sprig of parsley
i onion Small-sized carrot
i bay leaf 2 quarts of cold water
2 tablespoon fuls of butter
The under part of the round of beef and the knuckle of
veal are the best for this soup. Cut all the meat into pieces
about an inch square. Put the butter in the soup kettle
and let it brown ; add to it the meat and stir over the fire
about five minutes, or until the meat is a nice brown. Now
cover the kettle and let it simmer for thirty minutes. Now
14 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
add the water and let simmer for four hours. Now add
the vegetables and bay leaf and simmer one hour longer,
strain through a sieve and put in a cold place to cool. When
cold, remove the fat and it is ready to use.
It can be clarified and colored the same as Bouillon.
FRUIT SOUP
1 pint of cranberries or currants
2 quarts of water
i teacupful of dried apples
i teacupful of dried pears
1 teacupful of raisins
2 tablespoonfuls of corn starch
y z pound of sugar
Cut the apples and pears into small pieces, cover with luke-.
warm water and soak one hour. Stem and seed the raisins.
Put the cranberries or currants into the water and boil fif-
teen minutes; then press them through a sieve. Return to
the soup kettle and add the apples, pears and raisins ; boil
all together one hour. Moisten the corn starch with a little
cold water, add it to the boiling soup ; stir constantly until
it thickens, add the sugar and serve.
GIBLET SOUP
2 sets of chicken giblets Sprig of parsley
i pound of lean beef i tablespoon ful of butter
i onion i^ quarts of cold water
i carrot 3 tablespoonfuls of flour
i bay leaf 6 hard-boiled eggs
Wash the livers, open the hearts and remove the clotted
blood. Cut open the gizzards, being careful not to cut
through the innermost lining ; empty them of sand and
gravel and then cut out the thick skin remaining. Put the
butter in a frying-pan. Cut the vegetables into squares.
Throw them into the hot butter and stir until a nice brown.
SOUPS 15
Now skim them out and put them into a soup kettle with the
beef, giblets, water, bay leaf and parsley. Place it over a
moderate fire and let it simmer until the gizzards are tender,
about two hours, skimming until clear. Now add the flour to
the butter remaining in the pan after frying the vegetables;
mix until smooth; strain the soup into it, and boil and
stir until it thickens. Take out the giblets and cut them
into dice, and put them in the soup tureen with the yolks
of the hard-boiled eggs. Season the soup with salt and
pepper, pour it over the giblets and eggs and serve at once.
Do not use the beef. If you use wine, one gill will be
sufficient.
GUMBO SOUP No. i
1 chicken i ^ quarts of cold water
50 oysters i bay leaf
2 dozen okras i onion
T/2 pound of ham 2 tablespoonfuls of butter
Salt and cayenne to taste
Cut the chicken up as for a fricassee, dredge the pieces with
flour and brown them in the butter. Put them into a soup
kettle with the ham, cut into small squares, the onion and
the bay leaf. Place the kettle over a moderate fire and bring
slowly to a boil. Skim carefully at the first boil and sim-
mer gently for two hours. Now add the okras, cut into
slices, and simmer one hour longer. Drain the oysters,
add them to the soup, with the salt and cayenne. Boil two
minutes longer and serve.
GUMBO SOUP No. 2
i chicken 6 tomatoes or one pint
i onion canned tomatoes
Y^ pound of ham i bay leaf
i tablespoonful of butter ^ cup of rice
i^ pints okras Salt and pepper to taste
16 PHILADELPHIA COOK SO OK
Cut the chicken same as No. i ; cut the ham into squares
and the onion into slices. Roll the chicken in flour and
brown it in the butter. Then put it into a soup kettle with
the ham, onion, bay leaf and water. Place it on a mode-
rate fire, and bring it slowly to a boil, skimming carefully.
Simmer gently forty-five minutes. In the meantime cover
the okras with cold water and soak twenty minutes, cut
them in slices and add them to the soup. Simmer gently
one hour ; then add the tomatoes, pared and cut into small
pieces, and the rice. Boil half an hour longer, season and
serve.
GREEN PEA SOUP
i quart of green peas i tablespoonful of butter
i quart of stock or water i tablespoonful of flour
Yolks of two eggs Salt and pepper to taste
Put the peas in boiling water and boil them twenty minutes.
Drain and press them through a colander. Put the stock or
water on the fire; when boiling, add the peas. Rub the butter
and flour together and stir them into the boiling soup ; stir
constantly until it thickens, add salt and pepper. Beat the
yolks lightly, put them in the soup tureen, add the soup
gradually to them, mix well and serve with squares of toasted
bread. If you use canned peas, just press them through
the colander.
MOCK TURTLE SOUP
calf's head 2 tablespoon fuls of butter
pound of calf's liver 3 quarts of cold water
calf's heart 4 even tablespoonfuls of flour
bay leaf i tablespoonful of mushroom
carrot catsup
onion i tablespoonful of Worcester-
12 cloves shire sauce
i turnip 2 hard-boiled eggs
Bunch of pot-herbs i lemon
Salt and pepper to taste
SOUPS 17
Have the butcher unjoint the jaws and take out the brains.
Now wash the head well through several cold waters. Pour
boiling water through the throat and nasal passages, then
wash again in cold water. Now put it in the soup kettle
and cover with the cold water ; put it over a moderate fire.
Skim at the first boil and again in fifteen minutes. Let it
simmer until the meat on the head is tender, about two
hours. Remove the head, take off the meat and tongue
and put on the ice to cool. Put the bones back into the
kettle, add the vegetables cleaned and cut into pieces, also
the cloves and bay leaf. Let this simmer for two hours
longer. Strain and put away over night to cool. Put the
liver and heart in the ice-chest with the other meat. In the
morning skim all the fat from the surface. Put the butter
in a large stewing-pan and stir until a nice brown, then add
the flour, mix well, and add the soup; boil and stir five
minutes; have ready the meat from the head and half the
liver cut into dice, add them to the soup and boil up
once ; then take from the fire and add the sauces, salt,
pepper and, if you use wine, a glass of sherry. Slice the
hard-boiled eggs and lemon, put. them into the tureen, pour
the boiling soup over and serve.
MULLIGATAWNEY SOUP
i chicken
3 small onions
i tablespoon ful of butter
1 tablespoon ful of curry powder
4 cloves
Juice of half a lemon
2 quarts of cold water
Salt to taste
Cut the chicken up as for a fricassee ; cut the onions into
slices. Put the butter in a frying-pan, add the chicken and
onions, and stir until a nice brown ; now add the curry
18 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
powder, salt, cloves and lemon juice; mix well. Put into
the soup kettle with the water, bring slowly to a boil, skim
and simmer gently for two hours. Serve with boiled rice in
a separate dish. Three rabbits may be used instead of the
chicken, if preferred.
MUTTON SOUP
6 pounds of the neck ^ cup of rice
i onion i bay leaf
4 quarts of cold water Salt and pepper to taste
Wipe the necks with a damp towel, put them in a soup
kettle and cover with the water; bring slowly to a boil, skim
carefully; cover and simmer gently for four hours. Strain
and stand away over night to cool. In the morning remove
all fat from the surface. Put the soup into the kettle, add
the onion, bay leaf and rice. Simmer half an hour, season
with salt and pepper and serve.
NOODLE SOUP
i chicken weighing four pounds
3 quarts of cold water
i small onion
i bay leaf
Sprig of parsley
The quantity of noodles given in recipe for
noodles, or four ounces of bought noodles
Clean the chicken, put it in the soup kettle with the cold
water, stand it on a moderate fire and bring it slowly to
boiling point. Skim carefully. Let it simmer gently two
hours ; then add the onion, bay leaf and parsley, and sim-
mer one hour longer.
Dish the chicken and serve it with egg sauce. Put the
noodles into the soup and boil fifteen minutes ; add salt
and pepper and serve.
SOUPS 19
NORMANDY SOUP
i knuckle of veal
4 quarts of cold water
i quart of white button onions
y 2 baker's five-cent loaf
1 quart of cream
2 tablespoonfuls of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of flour
Salt and pepper to taste
Put the veal in a soup kettle with the onions and water.
Let it simmer slowly for two hours. Then add the bread,
cut into slices. Let it simmer two hours longer. Then
remove the knuckle and press the remaining ingredients
through a sieve. Return it to the soup kettle. Rub the
butter and flour together to a smooth paste, stir it into the
boiling soup, and stir constantly until it thickens. Add
the cream, salt and pepper and serve. This soup is
delicious.
OX-TAIL SOUP
2 ox-tails i turnip
2 tablespoonfuls of butter i bay leaf
i onion 2 quarts of cold water
4 cloves or stock
i carrot Salt and pepper to taste
Wash and wipe the ox-tails. Cut them into pieces about
one inch long. Put the butter into a frying-pan ; when hot,
throw in the ox-tails and stir until they turn brown, then
skim them out, and put them into a soup kettle with the
onion, the cloves, the carrot, the turnip, the bay leaf and
the water or stock (the latter the best). Simmer until the
tails are tender, about two hours. Then remove the vege-
tables, add salt and pepper and serve. If you use wine,
one glass of sherry.
20 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
PEPPER POT
i knuckle of veal 2 medium-sized potatoes
i pound of plain tripe i bay leaf
i pound of honey-comb tripe 3 quarts of cold water
Bunch of pot-herbs 2 tablespoon fuls of butter
i onion 2 tablespoon fuls of flour
i^ pound of. suet Salt and cayenne to taste
Wash the tripe well in cold water. Put it in a kettle, cover
it with cold water and boil eight hours ; this should be
cooked the day before you want the soup. Wipe the
knuckle with a damp towel, put it in a soup kettle, cover
with the water, place it on the fire and bring slowly to a
simmer, carefully skimming off the scum. Simmer gently
for three hours, then strain and return soup to the kettle.
Wash the pot-herbs, chop the parsley, rub off the thyme
leaves, and cut only half the red pepper (they usually put a
whole one in each bunch). Cut the potatoes into dice ;
add all these and the bay leaf to the soup. Cut the tripe
into pieces one inch square. Cut the meat from the
knuckle into small pieces; add these also to the soup;
'place it on the fire and, when at boiling point, season with
the salt and cayenne. Rub the butter and flour together
and stir into the boiling soup, and then fifty small dumplings
made as follows : Chop the suet fine, measure it, and take
double the quantity of flour, one-quarter of teaspoonful
of salt, mix well together, moisten with ice water (about a
quarter of a cup). Form into tiny dumplings about the
size of a marble, throw into the soup, simmer for fifteen
minutes and serve.
RABBIT SOUP
2 young rabbits i bay leaf
2 quarts of cold water ^ cup of rice
i good-sized onion i tablespoonful of butter
i blade of mace Salt and pepper
SOUPS 21
Skin and singe the rabbits. Wash them well in warm
water. Cut them in small pieces and put in a soup kettle.
Cover with the water, add the onion, mace and bay leaf.
Place on a moderate fire and simmer gently until the
meat is tender, about an hour and a half. Strain and
return the soup to the kettle ; add the rice, salt and
pepper, and simmer for a half hour ; add the butter ;
separate the meat from the bones and add it to the soup,
which is then ready to serve.
x
SOUP a la REINE.
i fowl weighing five pounds 4 cloves
3 quarts of cold water 3 tablespoon fuls of butter
1/2 cup of rice 2 tab lespoon fuls of flour
]/?, pint of good cream i blade of mace
i carrot i piece of cinnamon half
i onion an inch long
i bay leaf Salt and pepj>er to taste
Clean the fowl, put it in the soup kettle with the water,
rice, mace, cloves, cinnamon and bay leaf. Cover the
kettle and simmer gently two hours. Clean the vegetables
and cut them into squares. Put the butter in a frying-pan ;
when hot, throw in the vegetables and stir until a nice
brown ; then skim them out, put them in the soup kettle,
cover and simmer one hour longer. Now add the flour to
the butter left in the frying-pan (if the butter is burned
take fresh butter), mix and stir into the soup. Skim as it
boils after adding the butter. Now take out the chicken ;
remove the white meat, chop it very fine and put it
back into the soup. Remove the carrot and spices and
press the rest through a sieve. Wash the kettle, return
the soup, add the cream, salt and pepper ; boil up once
and serve.
If you use wine, one gill at serving time.
22 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
VEGETABLE SOUP WITHOUT MEAT
i carrot i root of celery
i sweet potato i tablespoonful of butter
i turnip 2 tablespoonfuls of rice
i parsnip 2 quarts of cold water
i white potato i bay leaf
i onion i teaspoonful of salt
i sprig of parsley
Cut the vegetables into dice. Put the butter into a frying-
pan; and, when hot put in all the vegetables but the white
potato and fry until a light brown. Then turn the whole,
butter and all, into. a soup kettle, add the water, rice, bay
leaf, salt, parsley and celery. Let them boil slowly one
and a quarter hours. Then add the white potato; boil
fifteen minutes longer, season to taste and serve.
VEGETABLE SOUP WITH SHIN OF BEEF
i shin of beef i teacupful of chopped
5 quarts of cold water cabbage
i turnip 2 tablespoonfuls of barley
i carrot i onion
i parsnip i potato
i root of celery Salt and pepper to taste
Wipe the shin with a damp towel. Put it into a soup
kettle, add the water, place it over a moderate fire and
bring it slowly to a boil. Skim off all the scum and let it
simmer gently four hours. Remove the meat, place it where
it will keep warm for dinner. Skim off all the fat from
the top of the soup. Clean the vegetables and cut them
into dice (you may chop them if you like in a chopping
bowl). Add them to the soup. Scald the barley and let
it stand five minutes, then add it to the soup. Simmer the
whole one hour longer. Season to taste and it is ready to
serve. Rice may be used in the place of barley.
SOUPS
CREAM SOUPS
VEAL STOCK
2 knuckles of veal i bay leaf
5 quarts of cold water i turnip
i tablespoon ful of salt Stalk of celery
i onion Sprig of parsley
i carrpt 4 cloves
i blade of mace
Wipe the knuckles with a damp towel and have the bones
cracked. Put them into a soup kettle with cold water and
salt. Place on a moderate fire and bring slowly to a boil;
skim. Now simmer gently for four hours. Clean the
vegetables and add them and all the other ingredients to
the soup and simmer one hour longer. Strain and it is
ready to use.
WHITE STOCK
Skeletons of yesterday's chickens
3 pounds of veal
i pound of ham
Sprig of parsley
i bay leaf
1 small onion
2 quarts of water
i tablespoon ful of salt
Put the skeletons, veal, ham and water in a soup kettle,
place over a moderate fire, bring it slowly to a boil.
Skim carefully. Now simmer gently two hours. Add the
parsley, bay leaf, onion and salt. Simmer one hour longer.
Strain and put in a cold place to cool. When cold re-
move the fat and it is ready to use.
24 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
CREAM OF ASPARAGUS SOUP
i bunch of asparagus
1 quart of milk
2 even tablespoonfuls of corn starch or flour
i tablespoonful of butter
Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the asparagus, tie it in a bunch, put it in a sauce-pan
of boiling water. Boil gently three-quarters of an hour.
Take it from the water, cut off the tops, put them aside
until wanted. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler.
Press the asparagus stalks through a colander, add them to
the milk. Rub the butter and corn starch or flour together
until smooth, add to the boiling milk and stir constantly,
until it thickens. Now add the asparagus tops, salt and
pepper and serve.
Canned asparagus may be used when you cannot get the
fresh. One quart can will be sufficient. This soup may be
varied by using one pint of veal or white stock and one
pint of milk, instead of the one quart of milk.
CREAM OF BARLEY SOUP
2 tablespoonfuls of barley i pint of veal or white
i pint of milk stock
Yolks of two eggs Salt and pepper to taste
Scald the barley, drain, cover with fresh boiling water and
boil three hours. Strain. Put the milk and stock on to
boil, add the barley, salt and pepper. Beat the yolks
lightly, put them in the soup tureen, pour over the boiling
soup and serve at once.
CREAM OF CELERY SOUP
3 roots of celery 2 tablespoonfuls of flour
i quart of milk i pint of water
i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste
A piece of onion the size of a silver quarter
SOUPS 25
Wash the celery and cut it into small pieces. Cover it
with the water and boil thirty minutes ; then press it through
a colander. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler, add
to it the water and celery that was pressed through the col-
ander, also the onion. Rub the butter and flour together,
and stir into the boiling soup, and stir constantly until it
thickens. Add salt and pepper and serve at once. This
may be varied same as cream of asparagus soup.
CREAM OF CHEESE or DUCHESS SOUP
1 quart of milk
A slice of carrot
A slice of onion
A blade of mace
2 tablespoon fuls of butter
2 tablespoon fuls of flour
3 heaping tablespoon fuls of grated
Parmesan cheese
Yolks of two eggs
Salt and pepper
Put the milk on to boil in the farina boiler, with the carrot,
onion and mace. Rub the butter and flour together. Re-
move the vegetables from the milk, add the butter and flour,
and stir constantly until it thickens. Add the cheese, and
stir three minutes. Now take it from the fire, add the
beaten yolks of the eggs, salt and pepper and serve at once.
This soup cannot be heated over. Veal stock may be used
in this soup same as cream of asparagus soup.
CREAM OF CORN SOUP
i pint of grated corn 3 tablespoon fuls of butter
3 pints of boiling water or, 2 even tablespoon fuls of flour
better, veal stock Yolks of two eggs
i pint of hot milk Salt and pepper to taste
Put the cobs from which you have removed the corn in the
boiling water or stock and boil slowly half an hour. Re-
26 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
move them, put in the corn and boil till very soft, about
twenty minutes, then press it through a sieve. Season and
let it simmer while you rub the butter and flour together;
add these to the soup and stir it constantly until it thickens.
Now add the boiling milk, cook one minute, then add the
beaten yolks, and serve immediately.
CREAM OF LIMA BEAN SOUP
i quart of very young i tablespoonful of butter
lima beans 2 even tablespoonfuls of flour
i pint of milk Salt and pepper to taste
i pint of veal stock Yolks of two eggs
Put the beans in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, boil
slowly thirty minutes. Drain and press them through a
colander. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Add
the beans to the stock. Rub the butter and flour together ;
add to the boiling milk; stir constantly until it thickens.
Now add this to the stock. Let it all boil up once, then
add the beaten yolks of the eggs.
CREAM OF PEA SOUP No. i
Shell half a peck of green peas, wash the pods, put them into
a soup kettle with plenty of cold water; boil until tender;
drain and throw away the pods. Put the peas into this
water and boil them three-quarters of an hour. Take out
one cup of the peas and mash the rest through a sieve.
Put them back again into the soup kettle (the soup should
now measure about a pint); add three pints of rich milk
and the cup of peas ; let it come to a boil. Rub a quarter
of a pound of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour to a
smooth paste and stir into the soup ; add a tablespoonful
of chopped parsley, season with pepper and salt. A table-
spoonful of white sugar and a sprig of mint are pleasant
additions.
1 t SOUPS 27
CREAM OF PEA SOUP No. 2
I pint of canned peas i tablespoonful of butter
i quart of milk 2 even tablespoonfuls of flour
Salt and pepper to taste
Press the peas through a colander. Put the milk on to boil
in a farina boiler; as soon as it boils, add to it the peas
that have been pressed through the colander. Rub the
butter and flour together, add them to the boiling soup and
stir constantly until it thickens. Add salt and pepper
and serve immediately.
POTATO SOUP
4 good-sized potatoes Stalk of celery
i quart of milk i bay leaf
i piece of onion the size of i tablespoonful of butter
a silver quarter i tablespoonful of flour
i sprig of parsley Salt and pepper to taste
Put the potatoes on to boil in one quart of cold water.
When they Are- half done (about fifteen minutes) drain all
the water off and cover them again with one pint of fresh
boiling water; add the bay leaf, onion, parsley and celery,
and boil until the potatoes are done. Put the milk on to
boil in a farina boiler. Now press the potatoes through a
sieve or vegetable press. Rub the butter and flour together
and stir into the boiling milk until it thickens. Now pour
this over the potatoes, stir until smooth and serve immedi-
ately. This soup cannot stand or be warmed over.
CREAM OF RICE SOUP
% teacupful of rice ^ of a small onion
i quart of white stock i stalk of celery
i quart of cream or milk i bay leaf
i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the rice carefully, add it to the cold stock with the
bay leaf, onion and celery. Simmer slowly two hours.
28 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Press it through a sieve, return it to the soup kettle, add
the butter, cream or milk, salt and pepper and stir con-
stantly, until it just comes to a boil, when it is ready to serve.
Cream of barley soup may be made the same as above,
simmering the barley four hours.
CREAM OF SAGO SOUP
]/ 2 cupful of sago Sprig of parsley
i quart of veal or white stock i bay leaf
1 pint of cream or milk i small onion
2 even tablespoon fuls of flour i tablespoonful of butter
Wash the sago well in cold water, cover with clean cold
water and soak three hours. Put the stock in the soup
kettle with the onion, parsley and bay leaf. Drain the
sago, add it to the stock and simmer slowly for half an hour.
Now take out the onion, bay leaf and parsley. Put the
milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Rub the butter and flour
together and stir into the milk when boiling. Stir con-
stantly until it thickens. Now pour this into the soup
kettle, add seasoning and serve.
SALSIFY or OYSTER PLANT SOUP
i bunch or one dozen salsify roots
i quart of milk
1 tablespoonful of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of flour
Salt and pepper to taste
Scrape the salsify, cut it into slices, cover it with boiling
water, about one pint, and boil slowly one hour, or until
tender ; then add the milk (do not drain off the water).
Rub the butter and flour together, add it, six whole allspice,
a blade of mace and a bay leaf, and stir the soup con-
stantly until it boils, add the seasoning and let stand on
the back part of the stove for ten minutes. Take out
the bay leaf and serve.
SOUPS 29
CREAM OF TAPIOCA SOUP
Cream of tapioca soup is made the same as cream of sago
soup, using a half cup of tapioca instead of a half cup of
sago.
CREAM OF TOMATO or MOCK BISQUE SOUP
i quart of milk
i pint can of tomatoes, or one pint of
stewed tomatoes
i large tablespoonful of butter
i bay leaf
Sprig of parsley
Blade of mace
1 teaspoon ful of sugar
% teaspoon ful of baking soda
2 tablespoon fuls of flour
Put the tomatoes on to stew with the bay leaf, parsley and
mace ; let them stew for fifteen minutes. Put the milk on to
boil in a farina boiler. Rub the butter and flour together,
add to the milk when boiling and stir constantly until
it thickens. Now press the tomatoes through a sieve and,
if ready to use the soup, add the sugar and soda to the
tomatoes, and then the boiling milk ; stir and serve imme-
diately. It must not go on the fire after mixing the milk
with the tomatoes, or it will separate. If you are not
ready, let them stand on the fire separately and mix them
when wanted.
FISH SOUPS
BISQUE OF LOBSTER
2 hen lobsters i tablespoonful of butter
2 quarts of veal stock i tablespoonful of flour
Season with salt, black and cayenne pepper
30 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Boil the lobsters and open. (See directions for boiled lob-
sters.) Cut the meat into dice. Bruise the shells and
small claws and add them to the stock, and simmer thirty
minutes. Pound and mix the spawn, if any, the fat, and
two tablespoonfuls of the meat, part of the coral, the
butter and flour, until reduced to a pulp. Strain the stock
and add it gradually to the pulp, stirring all the while.
Now add the seasoning, return it to the fire, add the lobster
meat and the remainder of the coral rubbed fine, and
serve immediately.
HALIBUT SOUP
i pound of halibut i small onion
1 quart of milk i bay leaf
2 tablespoonfuls of flour Sprig of parsley
i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste
Put the fish in a sauce-pan, add the bay leaf, parsley and
onion, cover with boiling water and simmer for fifteen min-
utes. Take the fish carefully out of the water, remove the
centre bone and skin and mash the flesh fine in a colander.
(It is not necessary to press it through.) Put the milk on
to boil in a farina boiler. Rub the butter and flour to-
gether, add to the milk when boiling, stir until it thickens,
then add the fish, salt and pepper ; let it heat up thoroughly
and it is ready to serve.
Any white fish may be used in place of halibut.
CLAM SOUP No. i
25 clams 2 tablespoonfuls of flour
1^/2 pounds of veal or i pint of milk or cream
one knuckle i bay leaf
1 quart of water i small onion
2 tablespoonfuls of butter Sprig of parsley
Put the veal or knuckle into a soup kettle with the water,
onion, parsley, bay leaf and the liquor drained from the
clams. Simmer slowly, one and a half hours, skimming
SOUPS 31
carefully. Then strain the soup and return it to the kettle.
Rub the butter and flour together, add to the soup when
boiling and stir constantly until it boils again. Chop the
clams fine, add them to the soup, then the seasoning ; let all
boil five minutes, then add the milk or cream and take from
the fire at once. If you boil it after adding the milk it will
curdle.
CLAM SOUP No. a
50 clams 2 tablespoon fuls of butter
i pint of milk i dozen water crackers
i pint of water Pepper to taste
Drain the clams and put the liquor on to boil; chop the
clams fine. Skim the liquor, as it boils, free from all scum,
then add the water, clams and pepper, and simmer for five
minutes ; add the butter and then the milk ; let it heat
(but not boil). Take from the fire, add 'the crackers,
broken into small pieces, and serve at once.
SALMON SOUP
i pound of fresh salmon i tablespoon ful of butter
i pint of -milk 2 tablespoon fuls of flour
i pint of veal stock Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the salmon, put it in a saucepan, cover it with boil-
ing water and simmer for fifteen minutes. Take from the
water, remove the skin and bones and mash the flesh in a
colander. Put the milk and stock on to boil. Rub the
butter and flour together, add them to the stock and milk
when boiling, stirring constantly until it thickens. Now
add the salmon, let it come to a boil and serve.
Canned salmon may be used in place of fresh.
GREEN TURTLE SOUP (The Caterer)
The day before you intend to dress the turtle cut off its head;
and to do this properly you should hang up the victim with
its head downwards, use a very sharp knife and make the
incision as close to the head as possible. You must not be
32 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
surprised at seeing, many hours after the decollation, the
creature exhibit extraordinary signs of muscular motion,
by the flapping of his fins. Separate the upper from the
lower shell, and in this operation be very careful not to
touch the gall bladder, which is very large and, if pene-
trated, would completely destroy the flesh over which its
contents ran. Cut the meat of the breast in a half-dozen
pieces ; abstract the gall and entrails and throw them away
at once. Separate the fins as near the shell as possible,
abstract the green fat and put it on a separate dish from the
white meat. Boil the upper and lower shells in water suffi-
ciently long to enable you to take away the bones. Then
remove with a spoon the mucilage that you find adhering to
the shells ; put this also in a separate dish. Into the largest
stewpan your kitchen affords put the head, fins, liver,
lights, heart and all the flesh, a pound of ham, nine or
ten cloves, a couple of bay leaves, a good-sized bunch
of sweet herbs (such as winter savory, marjoram, basil,
thyme), a silver onion cut into slices and a bunch of
parsley. Cover all these with the liquor in which you have
boiled the shells and let it simmer till the meat be thor-
oughly done, which you can ascertain by pricking with a
fork and observing if any blood exudes ; when none ap-
pears, strain the liquor through a fine sieve and return it to
the stewpan, which may remain at some distance from the
fire. Cut the meat into square bits of about an inch. Put
the herbs, onion, etc., into a separate saucepan with four
ounces of butter, three or four lumps of sugar and a bottle
of Madeira ; let this boil slowly. Whilst this is doing, melt
in another saucepan half a pound of fresh butter and, when
quite dissolved, thicken it with flour, but do not make it
too thick, and then add a pint of the liquor from the shells ;
let this boil very gently, removing the scum as it rises.
SOUPS 33
When both these saucepans are ready, strain the con-
tents of the first through a sieve, and this done, add both
to the stewpan. Warm up the liquor from the shells, the
green fat and mucilage and put them and the meat into
the stewpan with the yolks of a dozen hard-boiled eggs,
the juice of half a dozen green limes and two teaspoon-
fuls of cayenne. Gently warm up the whole together, and
you may regard your cookery as complete. Fill as many
tureens as your soup will permit, and, as these are required
for the table, take especial care to warm the soup before
serving by putting the tureens in a hot water bath (bain-
marie) ; boiling it up a second time would deprive this
delicious preparation of its true flavor.
OYSTER SOUP
50 oysters i dozen pepper-corns
i pint of cold water i tablespoonful of butter
i pint of milk i tablespoonful of corn starch
Salt and pepper to taste
Put the oysters in a colander to drain, then pour over them
the cold water and allow it to drain into the liquor. Now
pour the liquor into the soup kettle, set the kettle over a
good fire and when it boils skim it. Now add the milk
and the pepper-corns. Rub the butter and corn starch
together until smooth and add them to the mixture as soon
as it boils. Stir constantly until it boils again. Wash the
oysters, after draining, by allowing cold water to run over
them through the colander. Now add them to the soup,
stir continually, until it comes to a boil, add the salt and
pepper. Serve immediately.
Do not allow the oysters to boil, as it destroys their
flavor and makes them tough. But be equally careful that
the oysters are heated through, as nothing is more objec-
tionable than a cold, uncooked oyster in a hot soup.
CHOWDERS
CLAM CHOWDER
50 clams
i pound of veal
^ pound bacon or ham
pint of stewed or canned tomatoes
pint of water
pint of milk
6 water crackers or three sea biscuit
teaspoonful of thyme
teaspoonful of sweet marjoram
tablespoonful of chopped parsley
3 medium-sized potatoes
Salt and pepper to taste
Line the bottom of the saucepan with the bacon or ham
cut into dice. Pare and cut the potatoes into dice. Chop
the onion fine. Cut the veal into pieces a half-inch square.
Chop the clams. Mash the crackers. Now put a layer of
the potatoes on the bacon or ham, and then a sprinkling
of onion, thyme, sweet marjoram, parsley, salt and pepper,
and then a layer of veal, then tomatoes, then a layer of
chopped clams, and continue these alternations until it is
all in, having the last layer clams. Now add the water,
which should be boiling and barely cover the whole.
Cover closely, place on a slow fire and simmer for half an
hour without stirring. Then add the milk and crackers,
stir and cook ten minutes longer and serve very hot.
The tomatoes may be omitted if not liked.
(34)
CHOWDERS 35
CORN CHOWDER
1 quart of grated corn 3 tablespoon fuls of flour
4 good-sized potatoes i pint of milk
2 medium-sized onions 6 water crackers
y* pound of bacon or ham Yolk of one egg
i large tablespoonful of butter ^ pint of boiling water
Pare and cut the potatoes and onions into dice. Cut the
bacon or ham into small pieces and put it into a frying-
pan with the onions and fry until a nice brown. Put a
layer of potatoes in the bottom of a saucepan, then a
sprinkling of bacon or ham and onion, then a layer of
corn, then a sprinkling of salt and pepper, then a layer of
potatoes, and so on, until all is in, having the last layer
corn. Now add the water and place over a very moderate
fire and simmer for twenty minutes. Then add the milk.
Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the boiling
chowder. Add the crackers, broken ; stir, and cook
five minutes longer. Taste to see if properly seasoned,
take it from the fire, add the beaten yolk of the egg and
serve.
FISH CHOWDER
3 pounds of fish * pound of bacon or ham
i pint of milk i tablespoonful of thyme
3 medium-sized potatoes i teaspoonful of sweet
i quart of water marjoram
i pint of stewed or canned 6 water crackers or three
tomatoes sea biscuit
i large-sized onion Salt and pepper to taste
Cut the fish, the potatoes, the onion, and bacon or ham,
into pieces about a half-inch square. Now put the bacon
or ham and the onion into a frying-pan, stir and fry them
a light brown. Put a layer of the potatoes in a sauce-
pan, then a layer of fish, then a sprinkling of onions
36 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
and bacon or ham, then a layer of tomatoes, then a
sprinkling of thyme and sweet marjoram, salt and pepper,
and continue these alternations until all is in, having the
last layer potatoes. Now add the water. Cover closely,
place it over a moderate fire and let it simmer twenty
minutes without stirring. In the meantime put the milk in
a farina boiler and break into it. the crackers; let it stand
three minutes. Now add this to the chowder, stir, let it
boil once, see that it is properly seasoned and serve very-
hot.
The tomatoes may be omitted if not liked.
POTATO CHOWDER
6 good-sized potatoes i tablespoon ful of chopped
i tablespoonful of flour parsley
i good-sized onion i tablespoonful of butter
% pound of bacon or ham i pint of milk
i pint of water
Pare and cut the potatoes into dice and chop the onion
fine. Cut the bacon or ham into small pieces. Put the
bacon or ham and the onion in a frying-pan and fry until
a light brown. Now put a layer of potatoes in the bottom
of a saucepan, then a sprinkling of the ham or bacon,
onion, parsley, salt and pepper, then a layer of potatoes,
and so on until all is used. Add the water, cover closely
and simmer twenty minutes. Then add the milk. Rub
the butter and flour together, add to the boiling chowder
and stir carefully until it boils. Taste to see if properly
seasoned ; if not, add more salt and pepper and serve.
ADDITIONAL RECIPES 37
38 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
ADDITIONAL RECIPES 39
40 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
FISH
The flesh of all fish out of season is unwholesome; to be
eatable they should be perfectly fresh, the eyes clear, the gills
red, the scales bright, the flesh firm and free from any
unpleasant odor and, to secure the best flavor, should be
cooked as soon as possible after leaving the sea, river or
pond. They should be scaled and cleaned as soon as
they come home from the market, washed quickly without
soaking, removing the smallest atom of blood. Sprinkle
salt on the inside and put them in a cold place until
wanted. If necessary to keep them over night, place
where the moon will not shine on them, as the effect is as
bad as the hot sunshine. Cod, haddock and halibut may
be kept a day before using, but mackerel and whitefish
lose their life as soon as they leave the water. The fat or oil
of most fish is found in their livers, consequently the flesh is
white. Salmon, herring, mackerel, sturgeon and catfish
are exceptions, having the oil distributed throughout the
body, thereby giving color to the flesh.
STOCK FOR BOILING FISH
5 pounds of haddock 4 whole cloves
1 onion i stalk of celery
2 bay leaves 2 sprigs of parsley
3 quarts of cold water
(40
42 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Clean and wash the fish, cut it into pieces about three
inches square; put it into a soup kettle, with the water,
onion, bay leaves, cloves, celery and parsley ; place it over
a moderate fire and skim at the first boil. Simmer gently
for two hours, then strain, add a tablespoonful of salt and
it is ready for use.
This makes a nice soup for Lent, served clear, with
croutons.
BOILED FISH
Wash the fish well in cold water. Wipe it carefully, and
rub it with a little salt. Wrap it in a cloth ; cheese cloth
will answer. Have the cloth just large enough to envelop
the fish. Sew the edges so that there will be but one thick-
ness of the cloth over any part of the fish. Now put it
into a fish kettle if you have one ; if not you may lay it on
a platter, tie fish and platter together in a cloth and put it
in the bottom of a large saucepan. Cover with boiling
water, add one tablespoonful of salt and simmer very gently
ten minutes to every pound of fish. Take the fish from the
water the moment it is done; drain, remove the cloth care-
fully, turn the fish on to the plate ; garnish with slices
of lemon and parsley. Serve with either shrimp, oyster,
Hollandaise or caper sauce, or plain drawn butter.
All cold boiled fish left may be utilized in making
salads, croquettes or a la cremes.
This is a general rule for boiling all kinds of fish.
BOILED SALMON STEAKS
Have the steak about two inches thick; wrap in a cloth, put
in a kettle of boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt and
simmer twenty minutes. Serve with lobster or shrimp sauce.
Rub the coral of the lobster fine and sprinkle over the fish.
Halibut steaks may be boiled and served in the same way.
FISH 43
TO BOIL SALT CODFISH
Wash the fish well in cold water. Cover it with fresh cold
water and soak over night. In the morning, wash it again ;
put it into a kettle, cover with cold water, place over a
hot fire and bring it to boiling point. Now stand it over
a more moderate fire for four hours. If it boils, the fish
will become hard. When done, dish and serve with drawn
butter.
TO FRY FISH
" Small fish should nvim twice, once in water and once in oil"
Perch, brook trout, catfish and all small fish are best
fried. They should be cleaned, washed well in cold
water and immediately wiped dry, inside and outside, with
a clean towel, and then sprinkled with salt. Use oil if con-
venient, as it is very much better than either dripping or
lard. Never use butter as it is apt to burn and has a ten-
dency to soften the fish. See that the oil, lard or dripping
is /W/X/^hot, before putting in the fish. Throw in a crumb
of bread ; if it browns quickly, it is hot enough and the
fish will not absorb any grease.
FRIED SMELTS
To clean them, make a slight opening at the gills, then
draw them between the thumb and finger, beginning at the
tail. This will press out all the insides. Wash and wipe
them. Now sprinkle them with salt; dip them first in
beaten eggs, and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling
fat. Garnish with parsley and slices of lemon, and serve
with sauce Tartare.
Ail small fish may be fried in the same way.
44 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
FRIED HALIBUT
Cut the halibut steak into pieces about two inches square.
Beat an egg, same as for fried oysters ; season the halibut
with salt and pepper, dip first in the egg, then in bread
crumbs, and fry a nice brown in boiling fat. Lay on brown
paper to drain and serve on a hot dish*.
FRIED WHITEFISH ETC.
Scale and wash the fish. Trim off the fins and take out
the gills. Wipe it dry immediately. Dredge it with salt,
pepper and flour. Put four tablespoonfuls of dripping or
lard in a frying-pan ; when hot, put the fish into it. Brown
on one side, then turn and brown on the other. When
done, take out carefully, put on a hot dish, garnish with
parsley and serve.
Bass, bluefish, porgies, flounders, weakfish and herring
may be fried in the same way.
TO BROIL FISH
This is one of the nicest ways of cooking shad, bluefish,
mackerel, salmon and the large trout. Always use a
double broiler. Rub it well with a piece of suet before put-
ting the fish in. A fish weighing four pounds will take
half an hour to cook over a clear but moderate fire. The
flesh side should be first exposed to the fire, then the skin.
Great care must be taken not to burn the skin side. When
the fish is done, separate it carefully from the broiler with
a knife so as not to break the nice brown outside. Sprin-
kle with salt and pepper, and spread it with butter, stand it
in the oven for a moment and it is ready to serve.
For broiling, the fish should be cleaned and split down
the back, leaving on the head and tail.
FISH 4o
BROILED HALIBUT or SALMON
Have the steak cut one inch thick, wash it quickly and care-
fully, dry it with a towel, place it on a broiler and broil
over a clear fire (not too hot) for ten minutes or until a
nice brown on one side ; then turn and broil on the other
side. Put on a hot dish, spread with butter, dredge
with salt and pepper on both sides, garnish with pars-
ley and serve.
HALIBUT STEAK a la FLAMANDE
Take a halibut steak an inch and a half thick, wash and
wipe it dry. Butter the bottom of a roasting pan, sprinkle
it with chopped onion, salt and pepper; put the fish on
top of this, brush it over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle
thickly with chopped onion, parsley, salt and pepper,
pour over it a teaspoonful of lemon juice, cover with a
tablespoonful of butter cut into small bits and bake in a
moderate oven thirty minutes. Serve on a hot dish,
with Bechamel sauce and garnish with slices of lemon
and parsley.
BROILED MACKEREL (Salt)
Wash and scrape all the thin black skin from the inside.
Soak the fish in a large pan full of cold water over night.
In the morning wash it in fresh water and wipe it. Brush it
with melted butter, dredge lightly with pepper, lay it on
a greased broiler and broil with the flesh side down over a
clear fire ; then turn and broil the skin side. Be careful
as it will burn very quickly on this side. When done
lay it on a hot dish and spread with butter or serve with
maitre d' hotel sauce.
46 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
BROILED SMOKED SALMON
Cut a piece of the salmon the size you wish. Wash it well
in cold water, then cover it with boiling water and let it
stand on the back part of the stove where it will keep warm
(not hot) for twenty-five minutes. Then take it out,
wipe dry and broil the same as mackerel.
BAKED SHAD
Scrape free from all scales, make a short opening down the
belly and take out the insides; wash well inside and out
and immediately wipe dry with a clean towel. Rub it well
with salt. Make a dressing of one cup of stale bread
crumbs, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one tablespoon-
ful of chopped parsley, a half teaspoonful of salt and a little
black pepper ; mix well and stuff the body of the fish and
sew it up with soft yarn. Now score one side of the fish
with a sharp knife, making the scores about an inch apart,
and put a strip of salt pork in each gash. Grease a tin
sheet, if you have one, place it in the bottom of a baking-
pan, put the fish on it, dredge thickly with salt, pepper
and flour ; cover the bottom of the pan with boiling water
and put into a hot oven. Bake fifteen minutes to every
pound of fish, basting each ten minutes with the gravy in
the pan. As the water evaporates add more to again cover
the bottom of the pan. When done, lift the tin sheet
from the pan and slide the fish carefully into the centre of
the dish on which it is to be served ; garnish with slices
of lemon, fried potato balls and parsley ; serve with
sauce Hollandaise or roe sauce. If you have no tin sheet,
place the fish in the bottom of a baking-pan and when
done loosen it carefully and slide it into the dish. Rock
fish may be baked in exactly the same manner.
FISH 47
PLANKED SHAD
This is the very best way of cooking shad :
The plank should be three inches thick, two feet long,
one and a half feet wide and of well-seasoned hickory or
oak. Pine or soft wood gives the fish a woody taste. Take
a fine shad just from the water, scale, split it down the
back, clean it, wash well and immediately wipe dry. Dredge
it with salt and pepper. Place the plank before a clear fire
to get VERY HOT. Then spread the shad open and nail it,
skin side next to the hot plank, with four large-headed
tacks. Put it before the fire with the large end down ; in
a few minutes turn the board so that the other end will be
down, and do this every few minutes until the fish is done.
To tell when it is done pierce it with a fork ; if the flesh be
flaky it is done. Spread with butter and serve on the
plank or draw the tacks carefully and slide the shad on to
a hot dish.
The whitefish caught in the lakes are excellent when
cooked in this manner.
HOW TO CURE AND SMOKE SHAD ETC.
Scale, cut the fish up the back, clean, and take out the roe.
Wipe the fish with a damp cloth but do not wash them.
To twenty pounds of fish allow one pint of salt, one pint
brown sugar and one ounce of saltpetre. Mix these all
well together. Rub the fish well inside and out with this
mixture. Put one fish over the other with a board on top,
and on this place heavy weights to press them down.
Allow them to remain so for sixty hours, then drain
them, wipe dry, stretch open and fasten with small pieces
of stick. Smoke them for five days in a smoke-house or in
a box, or some such place, over a smothered wood fire.
Whitefish, salmon and other large fish may be smoked
in the same way.
48 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
CODFISH BALLS
2 cups of picked codfish (salt) i tablespoon ful of butter
2 cups of mashed potatoes y cup of cream
^ of a teaspoonful of pepper
Pick the codfish into small pieces ; soak it in cold water for
half an hour ; then drain and pour over it enough boiling
water to cover ; let it stand on back part of the fire for
fifteen minutes. Drain and press out all the water, then
mix it with the potatoes, which should be well beaten, add
all the other ingredients, beat well. Form into balls, roll
first in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs and fry in
boiling fat or oil.
STEWED SALT CODFISH
1 cup of picked codfish i quart of milk
2 medium-sized potatoes ^ cup of bread crumbs
Butter the size of an egg Salt and pepper to taste
Cover the codfish with cold water and soak two hours.
Pare and cut the potatoes into dice, put them in a stewing-
pan, cover them with boiling water and boil until tender ;
drain, add to them the milkf the butter and the bread
crumbs. Drain the fish and scald it, and drain again ; add
it to the other ingredients, let it boil up once, add salt and
pepper and serve very hot.
SALT CODFISH WITH CREAM SAUCE
2 cups of picked codfish i large tablespoonful of
1 pint of milk butter
2 even tablespoonfuls of flour Yolk of one egg
Salt and pepper to taste
Cover the codfish with cold water and let it soak two hours ;
drain, cover with lukewarm water and stand it on the back
part of the fire, where it will not get scalding hot, for one
hour more. Then drain it free from all water. Put the
butter in a frying-pan ; when melted, add the flour and mix ;
FISH 49
then add the milk, stir constantly until it boils, add the fish,
salt and pepper and stir until hot. Take from the fire,
add the yolk of the egg and serve immediately with plain
boiled potatoes.
FISH a la REINE
i pound of cold boiled fish Yolk of one egg
i tablespoonful of butter 3 chopped mushrooms
i tablespoonful of flour i tablespoonful of chopped
YV pint of milk or cream parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
Pick the fish into small pieces. Put the butter in a frying-
pan and, when melted, add the flour, mix, then add the
milk and stir constantly until it boils. Add the fish, mush-
rooms, salt and pepper and stand the frying-pan over the
tea-kettle until the fish is thoroughly heated. Now beat the
yolk of the egg lightly, add it and the parsley, mix all
carefully together and serve at once in paper cases or shells.
CUSK a la CREME
i pint of pieces of cold^ i bay leaf
cooked fish i sprig of parsley
Yolks of two eggs i small piece of onion
i pint of milk i tablespoonful of butter
i blade of mace 2 tablespoon fuls of flour
Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler, add to it the
mace, onion, parsley and the bay leaf. Rub the butter
and flour together and stir into the milk when boiling,
cook two minutes, add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs,
take from the fire and strain. Add salt and pepper to
taste. Put a layer of this sauce in the bottom of a baking-
dish, then a layer of the fish, then another layer of the
sauce, and so on until all is used, having the last layer
sauce. Sprinkle the top lightly with bread crumbs and
put in the oven until a nice brown. Serve in the same dish.
This may also be served in individual dishes.
50 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
DEVILED HALIBUT
This is made the same as deviled crabs, using one pound
of cold boiled halibut instead of one dozen crabs. Serve
in clam or scallop shells.
SALMON CROQUETTES
i pound or one can of cold Juice of half a lemon
boiled salmon A little cayenne
i teaspoon ful of salt i cup of cream
i tablespoonful of chopped i tablespoonful of butter
parsley 3 tablespoon fuls of flour
Chop the salmon fine and add to it the salt, parsley, lemon
juice and cayenne. Mix thoroughly. Put the cream on
to boil. Rub the butter and flour together until smooth
and then stir them into the boiling cream. Stir and cook two
minutes; season it lightly. Now stir this into the salmon;
mix well and turn out on a dish to cool. When cool, form
into cork-shaped croquettes; roll first in beaten egg, then
bread crumbs and fry in boiling fat. Serve on a napkin,
garnish with parsley.
SHAD ROE CROQUETTES
2 shad roes i teaspoonful of lemon juice
y& pint of cream i large tablespoonful of butter
Yolks of two eggs 2 large tablespoonfuls of flour
} of a grated nutmeg i tablespoonful of chopped parsley
Salt, cayenne and black pepper
Wash the shad roes, put them in a saucepan of boiling
water, add a teaspoonful of salt, cover and simmer slowly
fifteen minutes. Then take them out, remove the skin and
mash them. Put the cream on to boil. Rub the butter and
flour together, add them to the boiling cream and stir until
it is very thick ; add the yolks, take from the fire and add
all the other ingredients, mix well and turn out on a dish
FISH 51
to cool. When cold form into croquettes, either pyramids
or rolls, dip first in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs
and fry in boiling oil or fat. Serve with sauce Hollandaise.
STEWED CARP
Scale the fish, cut off the head, tail and fins. Mix one
tablespoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper and a
quarter of a teaspoonful of mace together, and rub the
carp inside and out with it. Stand it in a cold place for
one and a half hours. Then put it into a kettle, as for
boiled fish, and cover it with boiling water ; add one small
onion, a sprig of parsley, one bay leaf and one teaspoon-
ful of sweet marjoram; let this simmer ten minutes to every
pound. When done, dish and serve with cream sauce.
PICKLED SALMON
A ten -pound salmon i small red pepper
2 quarts of good cider vinegar 1 2 pepper-corns
4 blades of mace 2 tablespoonfuls of whole
12 whole cloves mustard
1 small onion 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar
2 bay leaves *^ pint of boiling water
Clean the salmon and wash it well in cold water. Put it into
a kettle, cover it with boiling water, add a tablespoonful of
salt and boil fifteen minutes to every pound. If you have
to cut your fish, boil only ten minutes to every pound.
When done, drain, wipe dry and stand in a cold place
over night. In the morning take off the skin and cut the
flesh into nice convenient pieces. Put the vinegar and
all the other ingredients into a porcelain kettle and bring
them to a boil. Now drop the salmon carefully into this and
let all boil up once. Rinse six or seven air-tight glass jars
with hot water, carefully take the salmon from the kettle
with a spoon, drop it rapidly into a jar, until it will
52 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
hold no more ; now fill with the boiling liquor to the very
brim, screw on the top and stand to one side. Proceed in
this manner until all the jars are filled. Then wipe them
off; see that they are all screwed up well. Stand in a
cool, dark, dry place and it will keep good for a year.
PICKLED HALIBUT
Proceed in the same manner as for pickled salmon, using
ten pounds of halibut in one piece, instead of the salmon.
STURGEON
PICKLED STURGEON
6 pounds of sturgeon 3 blades of mace
\y 2 quarts of good cider i tablespoonful of mustard
vinegar seed
1 onion 12 pepper-corns
2 bay leaves i small red pepper
1 2 whole cloves i tablespoonful of loaf sugar
Skin the fish and let it soak in cold water for half an hour.
Then put it in a kettle, cover it with boiling water and
parboil fifteen minutes to remove the oily taste. Now
drain and stand it in a cold place until the next day, then
finish same as pickled salmon.
STEWED STURGEON
Cut two pounds of the fish into pieces about two inches
square, put them into a stewing-pan and cover with boil-
ing water. Simmer gently for fifteen minutes to extract
the strong oily flavor. Now drain off the water, add one
tablespoonful of butter, then salt and pepper; cover the
saucepan and stew until tender, about twenty minutes. Then
add half a pint of milk. Moisten one tablespoonful of
flour with a little cold water, mix until smooth, then add it
to the sturgeon to thicken the gravy, boil up and serve hot.
FISH 53
BROILED STURGEON
Take two pounds of sturgeon steaks, wash well, skin and
parboil fifteen minutes ; drain and wipe dry ; dredge
with salt and pepper and broil over a clear, mild fire.
Pour over them a tablespoonful of melted butter, serve
on a hot dish and garnish with parsley and lemon cut into
quarters, or they may be spread with maitre d' hotel sauce.
BAKED STURGEON
Take a piece of sturgeon weighing six pounds, wash it well,
skin it and parboil for twenty minutes. Put a quarter of a
pound of bacon in the bottom of a baking-pan, place the
sturgeon on top of it, add a little water to keep it from
burning and bake one hour, basting every ten minutes.
Serve with drawn butter.
EELS
STEWED EELS
6 nice eels i bay leaf
i pint of veal or fish stock i small onion
1 tablespoonful of butter i sprig of parsley
2 tablespoonfuls of flour Salt and pepper to taste
Skin and clean the eels, cut off their heads and then cut
them into pieces about two inches long; put them into a
stewing-pan, cover with boiling water, add a tablespoonful
of vinegar and simmer for ten minutes ; then drain them.
Melt the butter in a saucepan, add to it the flour, mix well
and add all the other ingredients ; stir constantly until it
boils; then put the eels into this sauce and stew for half an
hour. When done, dish the eels, strain the sauce over
them and garnish with sippets fried in butter.
54 .PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
FRIED EELS
Skin and clean the eels. Cut them into pieces about three
inches long ; put them in a stewing-pan, cover with boiling
water, add one tablespoonful of vinegar to every six eels;
simmer five minutes. Drain and dry them with a towel.
Beat an egg lightly, add to it a tablespoonful of boiling-
water, season with salt and pepper, dip the eels first in this
and then in bread crumbs and fry in boiling oil or fat
until a nice brown. Serve with sauce Tartare.
FROGS
FRIED FROGS
The hind legs of frogs are the only part used as food. They
are usually sold skinned in the markets ; but if you get
them out of town, they must be skinned and thrown into
boiling water for five minutes ; take out and put them in
cold water until cold, then wipe dry. Season with salt
and pepper, dredge with flour and fry a nice brown
in butter. Serve with fried parsley around them, or with
cream sauce.
STEWED FROGS
i dozen frogs y,, pint of stock
i tablespoonful of butter Yolk of one egg
i tablespoonful of flour Salt and pepper to taste
Prepare the frogs same as for frying. Put the butter in a
frying-pan ; when brown add the flour, mix until smooth,
add the stock and, when it boils, throw in the frogs and
simmer ten minutes ; add salt and pepper, take from the
fire, add the beaten yolk and serve at once.
FISH 55
LOBSTERS
Never buy a dead lobster. Choose the smaller ones that
are heavy for their size ; the larger ones are coarse and
tough. They should be perfectly fresh and very lively.
The male lobster is preferred for eating and the female for
sauces and soups. The female has a broader tail and less
claws than the male. If possible, always boil the lobster
at home ; but in some localities, where it is a necessity to
buy them boiled, see that the tail is stiff and elastic, so that
when you bend it out, it springs back immediately ; other-
wise they were dead before boiling. Lobsters boiled when
dead are watery and soft ; they are very unwholesome, even
to a dangerous degree.
TO BOIL AND OPEN A LOBSTER
Fill a kettle with warm water (not boiling), put in the lob-
ster head downward, add a tablespoonful of salt, cover the
kettle and stand it over a very quick fire. They suffer
less by being put into warm than in boiling water.
In the latter they are killed by heat, in warm water
they are smothered. A medium-sized lobster should boil
half an hour ; a larger one three-quarters. Cooking them
too long makes them tough, and the meat will stick to the
shell. When done and cool, separate the tail from the
body and twist off all the claws ; shake out carefully the
torn-alley (this is the liver of the lobster and may be known
by its greenish color) ; also the coral. Then draw the
body from the shell, remove the stomach (sometimes
called the lady), which is found immediately under the
head, and throw this away. Now split the body through the
centre and pick the meat from the cells. Cut the under
side of the tail shell, loosen the meat and take it out
in one solid piece. Now split the meat of the tail open
and you will uncover a little vein running its entire
5(5 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
length, this remove. The vein is not always the same
color; sometimes it is red, sometimes black and sometimes
white; but in all cases it must be carefully taken out and
thrown away. The stomach or lady, the vein and the spongy
fingers between the body and shell, are the only parts not
eatable. Crack the claws and take out the meat.
To serve plain boiled lobster, arrange the meat thus
taken out in the centre of a cold dish, garnishing with the
claws, sprigs of fresh parsley, hard-boiled eggs cut into
quarters and pickled beets cut into fancy shapes. Let each
person season to suit one's self.
LOBSTER FARCI
2 cups of boiled lobster
Yolks of three hard-boiled eggs
i tablespoon ful of chopped parsley
1 tablespoonful of butter
2 tablespoon fuls of bread crumbs
y 2 pint of milk
i even tablespoonful of flour
i^ nutmeg, grated
Salt and cayenne to taste.
Cut the lobster into small pieces. Put the milk on to boil.
Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the milk
when boiling ; stir until smooth, take from the fire, add the
bread crumbs, parsley, lobster, hard-boiled eggs mashed fine,
salt and cayenne; mix all well together. Be careful when
opening the lobster not to break the body or tail shells.
Wash the shells and wipe them dry, and with a sharp
knife or scissors cut off the under part of the shell. Now
join the large ends of the two tail shells to the body, forming
a boat. Put the farce into these shells, brush it over the
top with beaten egg, sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs
and place in a quick oven for fifteen minutes to brown.
Serve hot in the shells garnished with parsley.
FISH 57
LOBSTER CHOPS
2 cups of boiled lobster i cup of cream or milk
3 tablespoon fuls of flour i tablespoon ful of butter
i tablespoonful of chopped ^ of a nutmeg
parsley Yolks of two eggs
Salt and cayenne to taste
Add all the seasoning to the lobster. Put the cream or
milk on to boil, rub the butter and flour together, and add
to the cream or milk when boiling. Now add the beaten
yolks and cook two minutes. Take from the fire and add
the lobster. Mix well ; turn out on a dish to cool. When
cool, form into chops, roll first in beaten egg, then in
bread crumbs ; put them in a frying-basket and fry in
boiling oil or dripping until a nice brown. It will take
about two minutes. Drain, and arrange them on a hot
dish ; put the end of a small claw in each chop to represent
the mutton bone. Garnish with parsley, and serve with
cream or Tartare sauce.
DEVILED LOBSTER
Deviled lobster is made the same as deviled crabs, using
two cups of boiled lobster cut fine, instead of the dozen
crabs. Serve in the lobster shells. This will require two
small lobsters.
SCALLOPED LOBSTER
6 pounds of lobster, live weight
YI pint of milk
i large tablespoonful of butter
i tablespoonful of flour
i tablespoonful of chopped parsley
^ cup of stale bread crumbs
Salt and cayenne to taste
Put the milk on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together
and stir into the milk when boiling. Boil the lobsters,
58 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
open as directed and cut the meat into dice. Put a layer
of the white sauce in the bottom of a baking-dish, then a
layer of lobster, season with salt and cayenne, then a sprink-
ling of parsley and bread crumbs, then another layer of
white sauce, and so on until all is used, having the last
layer sauce, sprinkled over with bread crumbs. Put in a
quick oven fifteen minutes to brown. Serve in the dish.
LOBSTER WITH CECIL SAUCE
Boil a three-pound lobster and open as directed. Cut the
meat into pieces about one inch square. Put a tablespoon-
ful of butter into a frying-pan, and, when melted, add one
tablespoonful of flour ; mix until smooth, add one gill of
cream, one gill of stock, and stir constantly until it boils ;
add the lobster, salt and pepper to taste. Heat thoroughly,
take from the fire, add the beaten yolk of one egg and a
tablespoonful of chopped parsley. This may be served in
paper cases or individual dishes.
LOBSTER WITH CREAM SAUCE
i lobster (3 pounds, live weight) i tablespoonful of butter
i tablespoonful of flour ^ pint of milk
5 mushrooms Salt and pepper to taste
Boil and open the lobster as directed. Cut it into dice.
Put the butter in a frying-pan, and, when melted, add the
flour ; do not brown, but mix until smooth ; add the milk,
stir constantly until it boils ; add the mushrooms chopped
fine, salt, pepper and the lobster; stir until thoroughly
heated. Serve in paper cases.
CRABS
Crabs, like lobsters, are sold alive, or boiled j they should
be heavy for t'fteir size.
FISH 59
TO BOIL CRABS
Take one dozen heavy crabs and boil, the same as lobster,
for three-quarters of an hour. When done and cold, twist
off the claws, take off the upper shells and remove the
spongy substance on the outside. See that the under part
is free from sand. Arrange them nicely on a flat dish, gar-
nish with parsley and serve with them oil, vinegar, salt and
pepper, allowing each person to dress his own.
DEVILED CRABS
12 nice, heavy crabs i tablespoonful of salt
YZ pint of cream, i tablespoonful of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of flour i tablespoonful of chopped
Y of a nutmeg, grated parsley
Yolks of four hard-boiled eggs Salt and cayenne to taste
Put the crabs in warm water, add the salt and put the kettle
over a brisk fire. Boil thirty minutes. Take up and drain ;
break off all the claws, separate the shells, remove the
spongy fingers, and the stomach, which is found under the
head. Pick out all the meat. Put the cream on to boil ;
rub the butter and flour together and add to the boiling
milk ; stir and cook for two minutes. Take from the fire
and add the crab meat, the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs
mashed fine, the parsley, the nutmeg, salt and cayenne.
Clean the upper shells of the crabs, fill them with the
mixture, brush over with beaten egg, cover with bread
crumbs and put in a quick oven to brown ; or better,
put them in a frying-basket and plunge into boiling fat or
oil until a nice brown.
SOFT SHELL CRABS
The soft shell crab is nothing more than a hard shell crab
after shedding its shell. In about three days the new shell
begins to harden again, which is the cause of the always-
short supply.
60 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Lift the shell and remove the spongy substance on both
sides ; then put your thumb nail under the point of the
"apron" and pull it off. The " apron" is a small, loose shell,
running to a point in the middle of the under shell. Now
wipe the crabs dry; if they are at all sandy, wash them before
removing anything. Do not blanch them, as it entirely
destroys their fine flavor. Dip them, while alive, in beaten
egg, and then in bread crumbs which have been well sea-
soned with salt and cayenne. Fry in boiling oil or lard for
ten minutes; when done, drain a moment on soft brown
paper. Put sauce Tartare in the centre of a cold, flat dish;
arrange the crabs around this, garnish with parsley and
lemon cut into quarters, and serve.
SOFT CRABS FRIED IN BUTTER
Clean the crabs same as above. Dust them with salt, pep-
per and flour. Put three tablespoon fuls of butter into a
frying-pan, and when hot throw in the crabs; when brown
on one side, turn and brown on the other. Serve as above.
CRAW-FISH
These are found in most of our brooks and rivers. They
resemble the lobster, and are often called young lobsters.
They are boiled and served the same as crabs, or used
to garnish boiled fish.
SHRIMPS
Of all fish belonging to the lobster species, shrimps are the
smallest. They are of two kinds, the Gulf shrimps or
prawns being the largest. They are sold by the quart,
already boiled, in some markets, but in the Northern cities
the canned goods are convenient and very nice. Those
put up by Dunbar & Co., and White, are the best.
FISH 61
BOILED SHRIMPS
Wash, and boil the same as crabs. When cold, twist the
body and tail shells apart, carefully, so as not to break the
meat, which remove in one piece. Serve same as crabs.
SCALLOPS
Scallops are always sold by measure, and only the muscular
part of the fish is fit to use.
TO FRY SCALLOPS
Cover the scallops with boiling water and let them stand
three minutes ; drain, and dry them with a towel ; season
with salt and pepper, dip first in beaten egg, then in bread
crumbs," and fry in boiling fat or oil.
STEWED SCALLOPS
i pint of scallops i pint of milk
i tablespoon ful of butter i tablespoon ful of flour
Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the scallops in cold water, then drain them. Put the
milk on to boil. Rub 'the butter and flour together and
add to the milk when boiling ; add the scallops, stir, and
cook five minutes ; add salt and pepper, and serve.
MUSSELS OR SOFT CLAMS
Mussels are good during the winter months only. They
should be of medium size, heavy, and perfectly fresh. Re-
move the shells carefully ; wash the mussels and soak in
cold water for ten or fifteen minutes, then drain.
FRIED MUSSELS
Mussels may be fried and served like oysters.
62 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
STEWED MUSSELS
Wash ; and open the mussels until you have one quart.
Then put them into a hot pan and stew for five minutes;
add two tablespoonfuls of butter, dust them with a table-
spoonful of flour, add six whole pepper-corns and stew
gently for ten minutes. Then add a half cupful of cream
and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Take from the fire
and season with pepper and salt.
CLAMS
There are two varieties of clams, the small sand or little
necks, and the mud clams or quahaugs. The first are very
much the best, and are in season almost the whole jear.
FRIED CLAMS
Clams may be fried the same as oysters.
STEWED CLAMS
Clams may be stewed the same as mussels, using fifty clams
instead of one quart of mussels.
TO ROAST CLAMS
Wash them and put on a gridiron over the hot coals.
When the shells open, remove the upper one, and serve in
the under shell at once with a bit of butter and a little
pepper on each.
CLAM FRITTERS
Clam fritters may be made the same as oyster fritters, using
twenty-five clams instead of twenty-five oysters.
PICKLED CLAMS
Pickled clams are made precisely the same as pickled
oysters, using fifty little-neck clams instead of fifty oysters.
FISH 63
TERRAPIN
Terrapins are always sold alive, and are in season from
November to March. Diamond backs are the best, but are
very expensive, costing from thirty to thirty-six dollars per
dozen for cows. The males are small and of inferior flavor.
The common red-legs or fresh-water terrapin are very
good, and only cost about two or three dollars a dozen for
the very best.
STEWED TERRAPIN
2 terrapins ^ pound of butter
y*, pint of thick cream i gill of sherry or Madeira
6 eggs ^ teaspoon ful of mace
Salt and cayenne to taste
Put the- terrapins alive into boiling water, and boil ten or
fifteen minutes, or until you can pull off the outer skin and
the toe nails. Now put them back in fresh boiling water,
add a heaping teaspoonful of salt and boil slowly until the
shells part easily and the flesh on the legs is quite tender.
When done take out, remove the under shell, and let stand
until cool enough to handle. Then take them out of the
upper shells ; carefully remove the sand bags, bladders, the
thick heavy part of the intestines, and the gall sacks, which
are found imbedded in one lobe of the liver, and throw
them away. In removing the gall sack, be very careful not to
break it, as it would spoil the whole terrapin. Break the
terrapin into convenient-sized pieces, cut the small intes-
tines into tiny pieces and add them to the meat ; now add
the liver broken up, also all the eggs found in the terrapins.
Now put it into a stewing-pan with the juice or liquor it
has given out while being cut. Roll the butter in flour,
add it to the terrapin, and stand on a very moderate fire
until heated. Boil the six eggs for fifteen minutes, take
out the yolks, mash to a smooth paste with two tablespoon-
61 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
fuls of the wine, then add this, the cream and seasoning to
the terrapin, let it boil up once, take from fire, add the
wine and serve.
It must never be boiled after adding the wine. More
or less wine may be added according to taste.
OYSTERS
11 Blessed if I don't think that ven a man's iverry poor he ritshes
out of his lodgings and eats oysters in regular desperation" PICKWICK
PAPERS.
Blue Points are nicest for serving raw, as they are small and
fat and are considered the finest in the market. The Cape
Shores, Maurice River Coves, and the Western Shores are
all very good. They are in season from September until
May and, like other shell-fish, are not good when dead.
Dr. Kitchener says, "Those who wish to enjoy this
delicious restorative in its utmost perfection, must eat it the
moment it is opened, with its own gravy in the under
shell ; if not eaten while absolutely alive, its flavor and
spirit are lost."
SERVED ON THE HALF SHELL
Allow six oysters to each person. Wash the shells well ;
open them carefully; take off the upper shell, detach the
oyster from the under shell, but leave it there. Put six
on an oyster or round plate, and serve with a piece of
lemon in the centre of the dish.
SERVED IN A BLOCK OF ICE
Take a perfectly clear block of ice, weighing about ten
pounds. Heat a flat-iron, and with it mark out the space
to be melted, leaving a wall about an inch and a half
thick. Reheat the iron and with it melt the ice in the
centre of the block ; heat again, and continue the opera-
FISH 65
tion until you have a perfectly square cavity, leaving the
bottom and sides about one and a half inches thick.
Empty all the water carefully out, fill the cavity with
freshly-opened oysters. Fold a napkin and place it on a
large flat dish ; stand the ice on this, and garnish the dish
with smilax and nasturtium flowers ; here and 'there, among
the smilax, lemon quarters may be placed.
In large cities, ice moulds of different varieties are
frozen to order and furnished by caterers.
STEWED OYSTERS No. i
50 oysters i large tablespoon ful of flour
i pint of milk i blade of mace
i large tablespoonful of 6 whole allspice
butter Salt and pepper to taste
Drain the oysters, and put the liquor on to boil; as soon as
it boils, skim all the white scum from the surface ; now add
the milk, put back on the fire ; rub the butter and flour
together and add to the milk as soon as it boils; stir until
it begins to thicken, add the mace and allspice. Wash the
oysters by pouring cold water over them in the colander,
add these to the other ingredients and stir constantly until
the oysters curl ; then add the salt and pepper. Do not
allow them to boil, or the sauce will curdle, but be sure
they are thoroughly heated, as nothing is , more objection-
able than an uncooked oyster in a hot sauce.
STEWED OYSTERS No. 2 (Mrs. Rogers, of Philadelphia)
50 oysters ^ cup of bread crumbs
i pint of cream i pint of water
i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste
Drain the oysters in a colander, and wash by pouring cold
water over them. Put the bread crumbs and water in a
stewing-pan, and cook five minutes ; then add the oysters,
and, when boiling hot, add the butter, cream, salt and
pepper. Let the whole boil up once, and serve.
66 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
FRICASSEE OF OYSTERS
25 oysters
i large tablespoonful of butter
i large tablespoonful of flour
y<i pint of milk
Yolks of two eggs
- i tablespoonful of chopped parsley
Salt and cayenne to taste
Boil the oysters in their own liquor; drain. Put the butter
in a frying-pan, and, when melted, add the flour; mix
until smooth ; now add the milk, stir until it boils ; add
the oysters and a half-cup of the liquor, salt and cayenne,
and stir again until it boils. Take from the fire, add the
yolks of the eggs lightly beaten, and the parsley; serve at
once.
CREAMED OYSTERS
25 oysters i tablespoonful of corn -starch
i pint of cream or flour
i tablespoonful of butter i blade of mace
Salt and pepper to taste
Put the oysters on to boil in their own liquor ; as soon as
they come to a boil, drain through a colander. Put the
cream on to boil in a farina boiler. Rub the butter and
corn -starch, or flour, together, and add to the cream when
boiling; add the mace, and stir constantly until it thickens;
then add the oysters, salt and pepper; stir until thoroughly
heated, and serve.
OYSTERS a la BECHAMEL
25 oysters 2 ounces of butter
y? pint of cream i tablespoonful of flour
Salt and pepper to taste.
Boil the oysters about two minutes in their own liquor,
drain, and chop them fine. Put the butter in a porcelain
or granite saucepan, and, when melted, add the flour ; stir
and mix over the fire until smooth, then add the cream ;
FISH 67
stir constantly until it boils; add the oysters; let it boil up
once ; add salt and pepper, and serve. A half-dozen
chopped mushrooms may be added, if liked.
PANNED OYSTERS
Put twenty-five oysters in a colander and wash by pouring
cold water over them ; allow them to drain ten minutes ;
do not save either the water or liquor. Put an iron frying-
pan over a quick fire to heat ; as soon as it is hissing hot,
throw in the oysters and shake and stir until they boil; then
add salt, pepper, and a piece of butter the size of a large
walnut. Serve in a hot dish immediately.
These are very nice, retaining all the natural flavor of
the oyster.
BROILED OYSTERS (on the gridiron)
Use nice fat oysters. Lay them out on a board, dry with
a towel, season them with salt and cayenne on both sides.
Have your gridiron hot ; test it by dropping on a drop of
water ; if it hisses, it is ready. Stand the dish in a warm
place; put in it a piece of butter. Now cover the grid-
iron with the oysters ; as soon as browned on one side,
turn and brown on the other. Put them in the heated
dish, and serve at once.
BROILED OYSTERS WITH BROWN SAUCE
Drain the oysters in a colander. Take one pint of liquor
to every twenty-five oysters ; put the liquor on to boil ;
skim all scum from the surface. Put one tablespoonful of
butter in a frying-pan, and stir until a nice brown ; then
add two tablespoon fuls of flour, mix well, and brown ; then
add the oyster liquor, and stir constantly until it boils.
Season with salt and pepper, and stand it over hot water until
wanted. Broil oysters on gridiron, as directed, throw
them into this sauce, and serve on squares of buttered toast.
68 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
NEW YORK BROILED OYSTERS
Take twenty-five large oysters, drain them, and place on a
a baking board, season with salt and cayenne, and dip in
bread crumbs. Grease an oyster broiler, place the oysters
in side by side, close the broiler, and broil them over a
clear fire until brown on one side, then turn and brown
the other. Serve immediately on squares of buttered
toast, with a few drops of lemon and a bit of butter on
each oyster.
PHILADELPHIA BROILED OYSTERS
Take twenty-five large oysters, drain them, and place on a
baking board. Season them with salt and cayenne. Put one
cup of the liquor on to boil ; as soon as it boils, skim it, and
add one tablespoonful of butter, with salt and cayenne
to taste. Grease an oyster broiler, place the oysters in
side by side, close the broiler, and broil them over a clear
fire until brown on one side, then turn and brown the
other. Now throw them into the hot liquor. Serve imme-
diately with a plate of buttered toast.
BAKED OYSTERS
Take nice large oysters in the shell. Wash and scrub
the shells until free from sand. Now place them in a bak-
ing-pan, put in a very quick oven (400 Fahr.), and bake
until they open their shells. Now remove the upper shells,
put a small bit of butter on each oyster, sprinkle lightly
with salt and cayenne, and serve in the under shells.
FRIED OYSTERS Philadelphia Style
Select for frying the finest oysters you can get. Drain
them in a colander, and dry one by one on an old napkin
or soft linen. Do not lift them with a fork, but carefully
with the fingers. Season on both sides with salt and
FISH , 69
cayenne. Beat up an egg in a saucer, add one tablespoon-
ful of boiling water, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Put
some nice stale bread crumbs out on your baking board, and
season with salt and cayenne. Dip the oysters one by one
first in the bread crumbs, then in the egg, and then place
again in the crumbs, covering every part most carefully,
and pressing it lightly with the hand. Put a deep frying-
pan over the fire, with enough oil or lard to immerse the
oysters. Be sure the oil or lard is boiling hot (365 Fahr.);
if you have no thermometer, drop in a crumb of bread, if
it browns quickly it is hot enough. Put in six of your
oysters, watch them carefully, as soon as they are of a
golden brown, take them out with a skimmer, and drain on
a soft piece of brown paper, and serve at once on a hot
dish. Some kind of pickles should always be served with
them, in a separate dish.
Oysters are very much better fried in oil than lard or
butter. They should never be fried until you are quite
ready to eat them, as they are not good when kept warm,
or warmed over. If you have a large quantity to fry, they
may be dipped an hour or two before serving time, and
spread on a clean cloth in a cool place. Always use bread
crumbs in preference to cracker crumbs.
FRIED OYSTERS New York and Southern Style
Drain the oysters and season as above, then dip them in
very fine cracker crumbs or flour. Put three or four table-
spoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan ; and, when hot, put in
enough oysters to cover the bottom of the pan ; when
brown on one side, turn and brown the other. See that
they are crisp, but not burned. Serve at once on a hot dish.
SCALLOPED OYSTERS
In a baking-dish put a layer of oysters, and cover them
with a half-inch layer of stale bread crumbs ; dot this over
70 ^ PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
with bits of butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper ; then add
another layer of oysters, and so continue until the dish is
full, always having the last layer crumbs, dotted with bits
of butter. Moisten the whole with a half cupful of the
oyster liquor and the same of milk. Bake in a rather quick
oven for twenty minutes, or until a nice brown. Serve in
the baking-dish.
At my lectures I have often prepared these in the same
manner, using the oyster shells instead of the one large
baking-pan, allowing three oysters to each shell, and I
think the flavor is thereby greatly improved.
OYSTERS AND MACARONI
Boil four ounces of macaroni, in plenty of boiling water,
twenty minutes. Then cut it into pieces about one inch
long. Put a layer of this in the bottom of a baking-dish,
then a layer of oysters, sprinkle with salt and pepper
and a few bits of butter, then another layer of maca-
roni, and so on until all is used, having the top layer
macaroni ; sprinkle the top lightly with grated cheese, and
bake in a moderate oven twenty minutes. Serve in the
dish in which they were baked.
OYSTER SAUTE
Enice fat oysters
pound of Irish breakfast bacon
'pper and flour
Drain the oysters and dry them with a towel, then sprinkle
with pepper, and roll them in flour. Put the bacon, cut
into thin slices, in a frying-pan, and let all the fat try out
of it ; then remove the bacon and cover the bottom of the
pan with oysters ; as soon as crisp and brown on one side,
turn and brown on the other. Serve on squares of buttered
toast.
FISH 71
These are delicious. If no Irish bacon is at hand, use
the ordinary smoked pork.
OYSTER LOAF
Cut a long loaf of bread into slices about two inches thick ;
a baker's long five-cent loaf will make six. Now trim off
the crust, and make each piece square. Dig the crumb out
of the centre of each piece, leaving sides and bottom like
a box ; that is, make a square box out of each slice of bread.
Brush each box over with melted butter and put in a quick
oven until a light brown. Fill with creamed oysters and
serve.
DEVILED OYSTERS
25 nice fat oysters i tablespoonful of chopped
y<2. pint of cream parsley
1 tablespoonful of butter Yolks of two eggs
2 tablespoonfuls of flour Salt and cayenne to taste
Drain the oysters and chop them middling fine and drain
again. Put the milk on to boil. Rub the butter and flour
together and stir into the milk when boiling ; as soon as it
thickens, take it from the fire and add all the other ingre-
dients. Beat the yolks before adding them. Have the
deep shells of the oysters washed perfectly clean, fill
them with this mixture, sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs,
put them in a baking-pan and brown in a quick oven for
five minutes. Serve in the shells; garnish with parsley.
They may be cooked in clam or silver scallop shells,
but are much better done in their own shells, as there is a
flavor imparted by the heated shell which greatly enriches
the mixture. A word of caution : avoid long cooking, as
it makes them dry. If your oven will not brown them in
five or six minutes, and you have no salamander, heat your
fire shovel red hot. Take the shells from the oven, hold
the shovel over them until they brown.
72 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
These may be prepared several hours before they are
wanted, and placed in the oven and browned at serving
time.
OYSTER CROQUETTES
25 oysters i tablespoonful of chopped
i gill of oyster liquor parsley
i gill of cream Yolks of 2 eggs
1 tablespoonful of butter ^ of a nutmeg, grated
2 tablespoonfuls of flour Salt and cayenne to taste
Put the oysters on to boil in their own liquor ; boil and
stir constantly for five minutes. Take from the fire and
drain. Chop the oysters very fine. Now put into a sauce-
pan one gill of this liquor and the cream. Rub together the
butter and flour ; add this and the oysters to the boiling
liquor and cream, and stir until it boils and thickens ; now
add the yolks of the eggs ; stir over the fire one minute ;
take it off, add parsley, salt, cayenne and nutmeg, mix well,
and turn out to cool. When cold, form into cylinders, roll
first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling
oil or fat.
OYSTER FRITTERS
25 oysters 2 dashes of black pepper
2 eggs 2 cupfuls of flour
i cup of milk y 2 teaspoonful of baking
i teaspoonful of salt powder
Drain the oysters and strip them with your fingers to
remove any pieces of shell that may have been left on
them. Chop them fine. Beat the eggs altogether until very
light, add to them the milk, then the flour and salt, and
beat until perfectly smooth; add the oysters (free from all
liquor), and the baking powder ; mix well, and drop by
spoonfuls in boiling oil or fat ; when browned on one side,
turn and brown on the other. When done, take out with a
skimmer, as it makes them very heavy to pierce them with
a fork.
FISH 73
KROMESKIES OF OYSTERS
25 oysters i cup of the white meat of
3 chopped mushrooms chicken
i tablespoonful of butter ^ pound of bacon
Yolks of two eggs ^ cup of cream
i tablespoonful of parsley 2 tablespoon fuls of flour
12 drops of onion juice Salt and pepper to taste
Put the oysters on to boil in their own liquor, drain, and
save a half cupful of the liquor. Chop the oysters fine,
add them to the half-cup of liquor and boil one min-
ute ; then add the cream, the mushrooms, and the chicken
chopped fine. Rub the butter and flour together and stir
in this boiling mixture ; add the parsley, onion juice, salt
and pepper, then the yolks of the eggs ; mix well and turn
out to cool. When cold, roll into cylinders about an inch
and a half long and about three-quarters of an inch in
diameter. Cut the bacon into slices as thin as shavings,
roll each cylinder in a slice of bacon, dip in French fritter
batter, and fry in boiling fat. Serve immediately, garnished
with parsley.
PICKLED OYSTERS
Boil fifty oysters in their own liquor until they begin to
curl ; drain and save the liquor. Take a half pint of white-
wine vinegar, and a half pint of the oyster liquor ; put them
on to boil with two blades of mace, one dozen whole cloves,
same of whole allspice, the same of whole pepper-corns and
a dash of cayenne ; as soon as they come to a good, hard
boil, have the oysters in a glass jar, pour over them the
boiling liquor, cover them closely and stand away to cool.
They will keep some time, and should be served cold.
They will be ready for use the second day.
74 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
OYSTER FILLING FOR POULTRY
A sixteen-pound turkey will require :
25 oysters i quart of stale bread crumbs
i tablespoonful of chopped i tablespoonful of butter
parsley i teaspoon ful of salt
i teaspoonful of sweet Pepper to taste
marjoram
Drain the oysters, wash them in cold water and drain again.
Mix the crumbs, salt, pepper, parsley and sweet marjoram
together; add the butter, melted, and then the oysters, and
it is ready for use.
ADDITIONAL RECIPES 75
76 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
ADDITIONAL RECIPES 77
78
PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
MEATS
As stated in the remarks on soup, the principal constituents
of animal food are fibrin, fat, gelatin, albumen, and osma-
zome. It also contains a large amount of water. Liebig
assumes that 74 parts are water and 26 parts dry matter.
" The ratio of water in meats, fowl and fish is quite
uniform, ranging from 70 to 80 per cent., but the propor-
tion of other constituents, muscular fibre, fat and bone,
exhibits the widest possible diversity. In some animals,
more especially wild ones, as deer, there may be hardly
a trace of oily matter, while swine are often fed until
the animal becomes one morbid and unwieldy mass of
fat. The pure muscle of ordinary meat, with all its visible
fat removed, is assumed by Liebig to still contain about 8
per cent, of fat. In beef and mutton such as is met with
in our markets, from a third to a fourth of the whole dead
weight generally consists of fat." (Johnston.)
In cooking meats our object is to retain the nourish-
ment and flavor, consequently we must follow directions
exactly the opposite from those for making soup. The
flavor and juiciness of meat depend as much upon the method
of cooking as upon the quality of the meat. If cold water
and a moderate heat will soften the fibre and draw out the
juices, boiling water or a strong, dry heat will retain them,
(79)
80 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
by coagulating the albumen on the surface and to a certain
depth within, thus enclosing the meat in a water-proof case
or crust, which neither permits the juices to flow out nor the
water to penetrate within ; in this way only is meat juicy
and well flavored.
The more albumen the flesh contains the more tender
it is, consequently veal, lamb, and spring chickens are more
tender than beef, mutton, and fowl. The coagulation of
the albumen throughout the meat gives it the white, dry
appearance. The tender meats also have less flavor, as they
contain very little or no osmazome.
I emphatically say do not wash meats, as in this way
they are robbed of a large proportion of their nutriment.
The steaks or roasts freshly cut from the beef are certainly
free from all objectionable matter ; the outer edges which
the butcher has handled may be well wiped with a damp
cloth and they are ready for use.
Heat is generally applied to meat in four ways : boiling,
baking, roasting, and braising. The first includes all stews
and boiled meats; the second our ordinary baked beef,
commonly called roasted in the oven ; the third, roasting
before or under the fire, and broiling. Roasting means
exposing one side of the meat to the fire and the other to
the air, which is decidedly the best way of cooking large
joints. But in these days of small kitchens and ranges, so
few persons have space or accommodations for using a spit
or even a tin kitchen (although the latter may be used be-
fore any ordinary range) that almost every family " roasts "
in the oven ; and this is by no means an inferior way if
the oven be very hot at first, in order to form a crust upon
the outer side, then slightly cooled, to prevent the crust
from burning, and finished at a moderate heat. In this
way the meat may be well done, and if properly basted will
MEATS 81
retain its juices. The fourth way is braising, which is neither
boiling nor baking, but has the advantages of both. The
meat is placed in a braising-pan (a pan with a close cover),
surrounded by water, and baked in a hot oven. This is a
very nice and economical way of cooking meat.
"Reed's Roaster" is the best and most convenient
pan that has come under my notice, being a close box with
a door at the end ; thus enabling you to look at the meat
without removing it from the oven, which is usually neces-
sary with 'other pans.
Meat loses, while cooking, a certain amount of its
weight. It is estimated that moderately fat beef and mutton
will lose about as follows :
KOASTING BAKING BOILING
4 Ibs. of beef will lose I ft). 5 oz. I ft). 3 oz. I ft).
4 " " mutton " I " 6 " I " 4 " 14 oz.
The foregoing table will show that boiling or stewing
is the cheaper method of cooking meats, as the meat loses
less of its weight, and you use the so-called inferior pieces.
These pieces are rejected, as Mrs. Turner fitly says : " not
because they are actually much inferior, but largely for the
reason which induced the generation before ours to throw
away shad-roe, sweet-breads, and other things now con-
sidered luxuries."
When we consider that a bullock weighing 800 pounds
contains only 120 pounds of what are sought after in
markets as the best pieces for roasts and steaks, and that
only 8 to 1 2 pounds in the whole 800 are tenderloins, and
when all dealers admit that the comparative cost of the tra-
ditional best pieces is out of all proportion to their com-
parative value as nutrition, we may well be tempted to tamper
with our tradition and experiment a little with portions of
the remaining 680 pounds ; and from these 680 pounds are
82 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
made all our nicest dishes, such as ragouts, brown stews,
pot-roasts, rolls, and in fact all the French made dishes.
In the recipes for stews and their companions, you will
notice that we never stew in plain water and thicken after-
wards, but make a gravy first, either from salt pork fat,
dripping, suet, or butter (never lard), and in this way the
meat is more savory and rich.
By changing the spices and flavorings, by browning,
or not, the sauces, an endless number of dishes may be
made from the few recipes given.
BEEF
The meat should be of fine grain, a clear red color, with a
yellowish-white, firm fat. It is divided into fore and hind
quarters. The hind quarter is divided into leg, loin and
flank. The sirloin runs from the rib to the hip or pin
bone ; the rump extends from this to the socket bone.
The skirt steak is in the flank. The fore quarter is divided
into ribs, shoulder, plate, brisket, chuck ribs, and shin.
The standing ribs are six in number. The seventh and
eighth ribs are called the first chuck, the ninth and tenth
the second chuck, the eleventh and twelfth the third chuck,
the thirteenth the fourth chuck. The bolar piece is the
fleshy part of the shoulder. The plate is the top of the
ribs, then comes the brisket.
ROAST BEEF
The best pieces for roasting are the ribs, sirloin, and pin
bone.
If you use a tin kitchen, run the spit through the
meat, dredge it with pepper, and place it at first very near
a hot fire. As soon as brown on the surface, draw a little
ME A TS 83
from the fire, that it may not burn ; put a half pint of water
and one teaspoonful of salt in the bottom of the kitchen,
and turn the meat almost constantly, basting every ten
minutes until done. Roast fifteen minutes to every pound,
if you like your meat rare ; if well done, twenty minutes.
Do not add any more water after the first evaporates,
as there will be sufficient fat falling into the kitchen to
baste with. For the gravy, allow two tablespoon fuls of
dripping to remain in the bottom of the kitchen ; add
to it one tablespoonful of flour ; mix until smooth ; add
a half pint of boiling water or stock ; stir continually until
it boils ; then add salt and pepper to taste, and serve in a
sauce-boat.
BAKED BEEF OR ROASTED IN THE OVEN
Place the joint in the bottom of a baking-pan, dredge it
lightly with pepper; add one teaspoonful of salt to one
cupful of water, and pour it in the pan. Place it in a very
hot oven ; baste every ten minutes, lest it should burn. Turn
it two or three times, and bake fifteen minutes to every
pound. Serve with gravy made the same as for roast beef.
BAKED RIB OF BEEF WITH YORKSHIRE PUDDING
Remove the ribs, then roll the meat, and tie it with twine
(the butcher will do this if you ask him). Place it in a
baking-pan, dredge it lightly with pepper; add one tea-
spoonful of salt to one cupful of water, and pour it in the
pan. Then place the pan in a very hot oven and baste
often, lest it should burn. Bake fifteen minutes to every
pound. One hour before the meat is done, make the
pudding. Pour nearly all the dripping from under the
meat into another baking-pan, and turn into it the pudding.
Bake one hour.
84 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
THE PUDDING
3 eggs 6 large tablespoonfuls of flour
i pint of milk ^ teaspoonful of salt
2 dashes of pepper
Beat the eggs, whites and yolks together, until light ; add
to them the milk. Put the flour into a bowl, moisten it
gradually with the eggs and milk ; beat until smooth ; strain
through a fine sieve ; add the salt and pepper, and bake.
Cut into squares, and serve around the meat.
A POT ROAST
Trim off the rough parts of a nice brisket of beef, place it
in a kettle over a good fire ; brown on one side, then turn
and brown on the other; then add one pint of boiling
water, cover and cook slowly fifteen minutes to every
pound. Add salt when the meat is half done. After the
water evaporates add no more, as there should be fat enough
to finish cooking the meat. Serve with Brown Sauce No. i,
made from the fat in the pot.
FILLET OF BEEF WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE
The fillet is the tenderloin of beef. They weigh from three
to eight pounds, and cost from sixty cents to one dollar per
pound. Having no bone, this makes an economical as well
as a very handsome dish.
From a caterer, a small fillet costs from seven to eight
dollars ; if prepared at home, about half that price.
To prepare, first remove with a sharp knife every
shred of the muscular covering on the one side of the fillet.
Now cut larding pork (very fat salt pork) into tiny strips,
and throw them into a bowl of ice water to harden. Place
one strip into the slot end of the larding needle as far as it
will go, thrust the needle into the meat, taking a stitch
ME A TS 85
across the top about one inch deep, push the needle through,
place the finger lightly on the strip of pork and draw the
needle out, leaving the pork exposed about quarter of an
inch at each end of the stitch. Continue until you have a
row of these lardoons (the H,ame given to these small
strips) down the centre of the fillet about one inch apart.
Into the bottom of a baking-pan put one small onion sliced,
one small carrot sliced, a stalk of celery cut into small pieces,
four cloves, and two bay leaves ; put the fillet in the pan
on top of these, dredge with pepper, and spread thickly
with butter ; add a teaspoonful of salt to a quarter of a cup
of boiling water, and pour into the bottom of the pan.
Bake in a quick oven (400 Fahr.) for thirty minutes, bast-
ing four or five times. The shape is such that it takes thirty
minutes to bake a fillet, no matter what its weight. When
done, take out and place on a hot dish. Add to the pan
one tablespoonful of butter, and brown, then add two
tablespoonfuls of flour; mix well; add one pint of stock
or boiling water, stir continually until it boils, strain into a
frying-pan, and add one pint of fresh stewed or canned
mushrooms. Cook five minutes, take from the fire, add a
teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, one tablespoonful of
sherry, salt and pepper to taste ; pour it around the fillet and
serve.
BEEF ^a la MODE
Take from a round of be'ef a slice about four inches thick,
weighing seven or eight pounds. Remove the bone. Bind
the beef into good shape with a piece of new muslin or
broad tape, sewing the ends together tightly. Cut deep
gashes into the meat one inch apart, being careful not to
cut all the way through. Mix a teaspoonful of salt, half a
teaspoonful of black pepper, same of cinnamon, quarter of
86 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
a teaspoonful of mace, the same of cloves, and rub them
into the meat on both sides, sprinkling a little in each gash.
Cut fat salt pork into pieces the size of the gashes, put one
piece in each gash. Add to one cup of stale grated bread a
small onion and a tablespoonful of parsley chopped very
fine, moisten with vinegar. Now work a small portion of
this forcemeat into the slots, by the side of the pork. Mix
three tablespoonfuls of vinegar with three of olive oil, and
moisten well both sides of the meat ; let stand over night
if possible. Then put two large tablespoonfuls of butter
into a braising or baking-pan ; and when melted and hot,
add one onion, one carrot and one turnip cut into slices;
stir the whole until lightly browned, then add two table-
spoonfuls of vinegar, two bay leaves, a sprig of parsley,
and two quarts of boiling water or stock ; let the whole
boil two minutes, then put in the beef, and one knuckle
of veal well cracked. If in a braising-pan put on the
cover ; if in a baking-pan, turn over it another pan to keep
in the steam. Put in the oven and bake slowly for six
hours; oven about 220 Fahr. When done, take out the
meat and stand away to cool. Strain the liquor, add salt
and pepper to taste, and turn into a square pan to harden.
This will make a jelly of a bright amber color. Serve the
meat cold with squares of this amber jelly around it. Gar-
nish with small button radishes, cut into tulips, and parsley.
Serve also in a separate dish sauce Tartare.
In winter this will keep at least two weeks, and equally
as long in summer, if kept in a cold, dry refrigerator.
BROILED STEAK
Trim the steak free from all suet. Put the meat plate to
warm. Grease the broiler and put it to heat. See that the
fire is clear and free from gas. Now put the steak in the hot
ME A TS 87
broiler and place it over the fire; turn constantly. It will
take eight minutes to broil if the steak is three-quarters
of an inch thick. When done, place it on the hot plate,
dredge it with salt and pepper ; turn it and season the
other side. Serve immediately.
Never attempt to broil a tough steak ; if you should
be so unfortunate as to buy one, use it for some made dish,
as hacking or hammering bruises the meat, and allows all
the juices to escape.
BROILED FILLET
Cut a fillet of beef into slices about an inch thick ; moisten
them with melted butter or olive oil, and let stand for half
an hour ; then place them on a broiler and broil over a
quick fire five minutes, turning them two or three times.
Place them on a hot plate, season with salt and pepper,
pour tomato sauce around, and serve.
BEEFSTEAK SMOTHERED IN ONIONS
Cut one dozen onions into slices ; fry a quarter-pound of
salt pork or bacon until all the fat is tried out, then take
out the crackling ; into this hot fat put the onions ; fry and
stir for twenty minutes over a good fire ; then add a tea-
spoonful of salt, a dash of black pepper, and one cup of
boiling water ; place over a more moderate fire to simmer
for half an hour. By this time the water should have
entirely evaporated, and the onions should be a nice brown.
Have ready a broiled steak, place it in the pan with the
onions, cover it over the top with some of them, and stand
in the oven for five minutes ; then place the steak on a hot
dish, heap the onions over and around, and serve.
88 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
HAMBURG STEAKS
One pound of steak from the upper side of the round ;
chop it very fine, add to it a tablespoonful of onion juice,
half a teaspoonful of salt, and two dashes of black pepper ;
mix well together. Moisten the hands in cold water, take
two tablespoon fuls of this mixture and form with the
hands into small round cakes or steaks. This quantity will
make eight Hamburg steaks. Put two tablespoon fuls of
butter into a frying-pan ; when hot, put in the steaks, fry
brown on one side, turn and brown the other. Now place
them on a hot dish, add a tablespoonful of flour to the
butter remaining in the pan, mix until smooth, add a half-
pint of boiling water, stir constantly until it boils; add
salt and pepper to taste, and pour it over the steaks.
Or they maybe broiled same as a plain steak, seasoned
with salt and pepper, and spread with butter.
TO PAN A BEEFSTEAK
When there are no conveniences for broiling (and we never
fry a steak), heat an iron pan very hot, put in the steak,
turn it from side to side over a very hot fire for about fif-
teen minutes. The steak should be about three-quarters of
an inch in thickness. Serve on a hot plate, seasoned the
same as broiled steak.
ROLLED BEEFSTEAK
i skirt steak or
i*/2 pounds of round steak
i cup of stale bread crumbs
i tablespoonful of chopped parsley
i tablespoonful of melted butter
1 teaspoonful of sweet marjoram
y z teaspoonful of salt
2 dashes of black pepper
Mix the bread crumbs, parsley, sweet marjoram, salt and
ME A TS 89
pepper together, and moisten with the melted butter.
Spread this over the steak, which roll tightly, and tie with
twine. Put it in a baking-pan with any pieces of suet that
you may have trimmed off; add a half-cup of water, and
bake in a quick oven for three-quarters of an hour. Serve
with Brown Sauce, No. 2.
BEEF OLIVES
i l / 2 pounds of round steak i tablespoon ful of butter
i cup of stale bread ^ teaspoonful of sweet mar-
crumbs joram
i tablespoon ful of chopped 5 mushrooms, chopped fine
parsley ^ teaspoonful of salt
2 dashes of pepper
Have the steak cut very thin ; trim off all the fat and skin
from the edges, and cut the steak into strips about three
inches wide and five inches long ; mix the bread crumbs,
parsley, sweet marjoram, mushrooms, salt and pepper;
moisten with the butter melted. Put a layer of this
forcemeat on the top of each strip, roll them up tightly,
and tie with twine ; dredge each roll thickly with flour.
Cut a quarter pound of salt pork into slices, put it into
a frying-pan and try out all the fat ; then put in the
olives (as these rolls are now called) and brown them
on all sides ; then put them into a saucepan, add to the
fat remaining in the pan two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix
until smooth ; add one pint of stock or boiling water, and
stir constantly until it boils, then pour into the saucepan
over the olives; add a slice of onion, a sprig of parsley, and
a bay leaf. Cover and simmer gently two hours. After
they have been simmering one hour* add half a teaspoon-
ful of salt. When done, place the olives on a hot dish,
strain the sauce over and around them, and serve.
This is a very good and economical dish, and may be
made without the mushrooms.
V
90 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
BCEUF en ROULEAU
I large rump steak
YZ cup of cold cooked ham or tongue
1 e gg
A little cayenne
i tablespoon ful of chopped parsley-
Chop the ham or tongue very fine ; mix with the cayenne,
parsley, and egg slightly beaten. Have the steak cut very
thin, and spread over it the ham mixture ; roll up tightly
and tie with twine. Dredge thickly with flour. Put a
quarter-pound of bacon into a frying-pan, and try out all
the fat ; remove the bacon, and brown the roll in the fat.
Now put the roll into a small saucepan. Add to the fat
remaining in the frying-pan two tablespoon fuls of flour,
mix, add one pint of stock or boiling water, and stir con-
tinually until it boils. Pour this over the rouleau, add one
bay leaf, half an onion, a sprig of parsley, and a table-
spoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Cover the saucepan,
and simmer for two hours. While this is stewing, prepare
some ham balls for a garnish.
HAM BALLS
YZ cup of cooked ham or tongue
1 gill of milk
2 tablespoon fuls of dried bread crumbs
Yolk of one egg
i tablespoon ful of chopped parsley
A dash of cayenne
Put the milk on to boil, add to it the crumbs ; stir over
the fire until it thickens ; add the ham finely chopped,
parsley, cayenne, and the beaten yolk ; mix well, and turn
out to cool. When cool, form into balls about the size of
a hickory-nut ; roll first in egg and then in bread crumbs,
and put aside until wanted. When the rouleau is done,
cut the string and remove it. Put the rouleau in the centre
MEATS 91
of a hot dish, strain the sauce over it. Plunge the balls
into boiling fat for about two minutes to brown, place them
around the rouleau, and serve.
This makes a good and sightly dish, and is very inex-
pensive.
GRENADINES OF BEEF
Have a rump steak cut one inch thick, weighing about two
pounds. With a sharp knife cut the tender portion into
pieces the shape of a French chop. Lard thickly on one
side. (See directions for larding.) Put two or three slices
of fat pork into a frying-pan (the tender part of the larding
pork will answer nicely for this), and try out all the fat, then
put in the chops, brown quickly on one side, turn and brown
the other. Place them on a heated dish, sprinkle with
salt and pepper. Add a tablespoonful of flour to the fat
remaining in the pan, stir until a nice brown, then add a
half-pint of stock or water; stir constantly until it boils;
add a half-teaspoon ful of salt, a teaspoonful of Worcester-
shire sauce, and pour around the grenadines, and serve.
The tougher part of the steak may be made into Ham-
burg steaks for another meal.
CANNELON
i pound of uncooked beef, chopped fine
Yolk of one egg
i tablespoonful of chopped parsley
1 tablespoonful of butter
2 tablespoon fu Is of bread crumbs
i teaspoonful of lemon juice
i teaspoonful of salt
3 dashes of black pepper
Mix all the ingredients together, then form into a roll
about six inches long and four inches in diameter ; wrap
92 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
in greased paper, put in a baking-pan, and bake in a quick
oven thirty minutes, basting twice with melted butter.
When done, remove the paper, place the roll in the centre
of a hot dish, and serve with mushroom or brown sauce
poured over it.
BOILING OR STEWING
For boiling, stewing, or braising, inferior pieces of meat
may be used and made into good, wholesome and sightly
dishes. Points to be remembered :
I. Be sure that the water is boiling when you pour it
over the meat.
II. Stand it on the back part of the fire, where it will
just simmer, never boil, allowing forty-five minutes for
every pound of meat.
III. Add the salt when the meat is half done.
RAGOUT OF BEEF a la MODE
Cut cold beef a la mode into pieces about one inch square.
To every pint of these squares allow
i tablespoonful of butter
i tablespoonful of flour
i tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce
i tablespoonful of mushroom catsup
y? pint of stock
i tablespoonful of sherry (if you use wine)
Salt and pepper to taste
Put the butter in a small stewpan, and stir until a dark
brown ; then add the flour, mix well, add the stock, and
stir continually until it boils ; then add the meat, sauce,
catsup, salt and pepper, and let it simmer gently for fifteen
minutes. Take from the fire, add the wine ; dish, garnish
with boulettes of potatoes, and serve.
ME A TS 93
STUFFED STEW OF BEEF
3 pounds from upper side ^ teaspoonful of allspice
of round i teaspoonful of salt
*^ teaspoon ml of black pepper^ teaspoonful of cloves
% teaspoonful of nutmeg i cup of bread crumbs
i tablespoonful of chopped i tablespoonful of butter
parsley ]^ pound of larding pork
Make gashes in the meat about two inches long, and almost
through it. Mix the spices, salt and pepper. Mix the
bread crumbs, parsley and the butter (melted) together.
Rub the meat on both sides with the spices, and put the
remainder in the gashes. Fill the gashes nearly full with
the bread crumbs. Cut the larding-pork into pieces the
size of the gashes, and work them down with the crumbs.
Now tie the meat around with a piece of twine to hold in
the filling. Put it in a saucepan, and cover with a gravy
made as follows :
GRAVY
i tablespoonful of butter
i tablespoonful of flour
i tablespoonful of mushroom catsup
i tablespoonful of tomato catsup
i tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce
i onion
i bay leaf
i quart of stock
Put the butter in a frying-pan and let it brown ; add the
flour, and mix well ; then add the stock, stir until it boils ;
then add the catsups, the Worcestershire sauce, onion, bay
leaf, and pour it over the meat ; simmer gently three hours.
Then take the meat out, put it in a baking-pan, pour over
two tablespoon fuls of glaze or gravy, and put it in the oven
for ten or fifteen minutes to brown. Then dish, and strain
the gravy over and around it.
94 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
SPICED BEEF
4 pounds of beef from the ^ teaspoonful of cloves
round or shoulder i teaspoonful of allspice
YZ teaspoonful of salt % teaspoonful of mace
A dash of cayenne Juice of one lemon
2 bay leaves i onion
4 tablespoon fuls of olive oil or butter
Mix the spices, salt and pepper together, and rub them well
into the meat on all sides. Mix the lemon-juice and oil or
butter together, and (if you use it) a gill of sherry. Pour
this over the meat and stand it away in an earthen vessel
for twenty-four hours. Then put it, with all its juices, into
a stewing-pan, cover with boiling water, add the onion and
bay leaves, and simmer two hours. When done, take out
the meat, and reduce the liquor by boiling to one pint.
Put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan and brown.
Add to it a tablespoonful of flour, mix, add a half-pint of
the liquor in which the meat was boiled, stir constantly
until it boils, add a tablespoonful of Worcestershire^ sauce \
then pour it over and around the beef, and serve.
BEEF BOUILLI
Take a piece of the round, weighing four pounds. Tie it
into a neat shape with strong muslin or tape, put it into a
large stewing-pan, cover with boiling water ; stand over a
moderate fire, skim carefully, and simmer forty-five minutes
to every pound. When the meat is half done, add a large
teaspoonful of salt and one carrot, one onion, and one
turnip, sliced. Fifteen minutes before you dish it, add two
sliced potatoes. When done, dish the meat. Rub together
one tablespoonful of butter or suet and three tablespoonfuls
of flour, stir them into the boiling stew ; season to taste,
and serve in a tureen, reserving enough vegetables to gar-
nish the meat.
ME A TS 95
STEW OF BEEF WITH DUMPLINGS
Two pounds of lean beef from the under side of the round,
or a shoulder piece. Cut it into pieces about an inch
square ; dredge thickly with flour. Put two tablespoon fuls
of dripping or butter into a frying-pan, place it on a good
fire ; as soon as it is very hot, throw in the meat and shake
or stir until all is nicely browned. Now skim it out and
put it in a saucepan. Add one tablespoonful of flour to
the dripping or butter remaining in the frying-pan, mix,
then add one quart of boiling water; stir over the fire until
it boils, then strain it over the meat ; add one small onion
and a sprig of parsley. Cover the saucepan and let it
simmer for *wo hours. When the meat is half done, add a
teaspoon ful of salt and three dashes of black pepper. Now
sift one pint of flour, add to it a heaping teaspoonful
of baking powder, and sift again ; add a quarter of a tea-
spoonful of salt and just enough milk (a little over a gill)
to make a soft dough. Do not work it much. Dip the
dough by small spoonfuls, and place them over the top of
the meat, cover quickly and let simmer ten minutes. Do not
uncover the saucepan while the dumplings are cooking, or
they will fall immediately. After you add the dumplings, the
stew will scorch easily ; therefore move the kettle to a moder-
ate part of the fire. Serve as soon as the dumplings are done.
A STEW OF BEEF WITH OKRA
Proceed exactly the same as for beef bouilli, adding two
dozen okras, sliced, one hour before the stew is done.
PRESSED MEAT No. i
I quart of pieces of cold i teaspoonful of cinnamon
cooked meat i teaspoonful of allspice
y 2 teaspoonful of cloves * teaspoonful of mace
^ teaspoonful of black pepper Salt to taste
i cup of boiling stock
96 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Mix all the ingredients together, then press into a square
mould and stand in a cold place to cool. When cold,
turn it from the mould, cut it into slices, and serve. For
this you can use any meat left from soups.
PRESSED MEAT No. 2
6 pounds of the brisket of beef
% teaspoonful of ground cloves
teaspoonful of ground mace
teaspoonful of ground cinnamon
*/i teaspoonful of ground allspice
i^ teaspoonful of black pepper
i teaspoonful of salt
Dash of cayenne
3 tablespoon fuls of vinegar
Cover the meat with cold water and simmer for five hours.
When done, take out and stand away to cool. Boil the
liquor until reduced to a pint. When the meat is cold,
remove the bones, and cut it into small pieces ; add to it all
the spices, salt and pepper, and press into a square basin
or mould. Now add the vinegar to the pint of boiling
liquor, pour it over the meat and stand in a cold place for
twelve hours. Then loosen it from the sides of the mould
and turn it carefully out, and it is ready to serve.
HASHES AND WARMED-OVER MEATS
BAKED HASH No. i
i pint of chopped cooked meat
i pint of chopped raw potatoes
y<z pint of gravy or water
i tablespoon ful of butter, melted
Salt and pepper to taste
Mix all the ingredients together, turn into a mould, and
bake in a moderate oven one hour.
ME A TS 97
BAKED HASH No. 2
1 quart of cold cooked i pint of chopped uncooked
beef, chopped fine potatoes
2 eggs Salt and pepper
Put the chopped potatoes in a stewing-pan with one pint
of water. Let them stew five minutes, then add the meat,
and enough water to make the mixture moist. Stew ten
minutes longer. Take from the fire, add the eggs (beaten),
a teaspoon ful of salt, and three dashes of black pepper.
Turn it into a baking-dish and bake twenty minutes in a
quick oven.
CORNED BEEF HASH
i pint of cooked corned i tablespoonful of butter
beef, chopped fine i teaspoonful of onion juice
i pint of cold boiled po- i cup of stock or water
tatoes, chopped fine 3 dashes of pepper
Mix the meat and potatoes together, put them in a frying-
pan, add the stock, butter, onion juice, and pepper; stir
constantly until it boils. Serve on buttered toast.
PLAIN HASH
Take any pieces left from cold roasts, steaks, or stews, chop
very fine. To every quart of this meat allow
i onion 2 hard-boiled eggs
i tablespoonful of butter ^ pint of hot water
Salt and pepper to taste.
Chop the onion and hard-boiled eggs very fine, then put
them with the meat into a stewing-pan ; add the butter, salt,
and pepper. Stew and stir over a very slow fire for fifteen
minutes.
HASH ON TOAST
Cut pieces of cold meat into small squares ; to every pint
of these squares allow one tablespoonful of butter, one
tablespoonful of flour, and a half-pint of boiling water.
98 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Put the butter into a frying-pan, and, when a nice brown,
add the flour ; mix well ; add the water, and stir until it
boils ; now add the meat ; salt and pepper to taste. Place
on a moderate fire, and let simmer for fifteen minutes.
Toast squares of bread, butter them, and place on a hot
dish. Put the meat on the toast, and pour the sauce
around it.
BOSTON BROWN HASH
Chop any remains of steaks, roasts or stews very fine.
Grease deep pie-dishes. Put a layer of mashed potatoes
(cold ones, left over, will answer) in the bottom of the
dish, then a layer of meat, then a layer of stale bread
crumbs ; sprinkle with salt and pepper ; place here and
there a few bits of butter, and moisten with a half-cup of
beef gravy, then another layer of potatoes. Dip a knife
into milk and smooth over the top. Bake in a moderate
oven about a half hour, until a nice brown. Serve hot.
BOBOTEE
1 pint of cold cooked meat, 2 ounces of bread
chopped fine 8 sweet almonds
^ small onion 3 eggs
2 tablespoonfuls of butter i teaspoonful of curry
i cup of milk powder
Put the butter in a frying-pan, slice into it the onion, and
fry until a nice brown ; add the bread and milk ; take from
the fire and let stand ten minutes. Blanch and chop the
almonds very fine; add these, the meat, the curry, and
the eggs, well beaten, to the ingredients in the frying-pan ;
mix all well together. Rub a deep pie-dish with butter
and the juice of a lemon ; put the mixture into this, and
bake in a moderate oven about twenty minutes. Serve
with boiled rice in a separate ciish,
ME A TS 99
CECILS
2 cups of cold cooked meat, chopped fine
Yolks of two eggs
1 tablespoon ful of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs
Y of a nutmeg, grated
i teaspoon ful of onion juice
1 teaspoon ful of salt
2 dashes of black pepper
Put all the ingredients into a frying-pan, and stir over the
fire until thoroughly hot. Take from the fire and turn out
to cool. When cold, form into balls about the size of a
walnut, dip first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and
fry in boiling oil or fat. Serve with Bechamel sauce.
TOAD IN A HOLE
i pint of cold cooked meat i pint of milk
i egg y 2 teaspoon ful of salt
6 large tablespoonfuls of flour
Cut the meat into pieces one inch square, put them in a
greased baking-dish. Beat the egg very light, add it to
the milk, and pour it gradually into the flour, beating all
the while. Strain through a fine sieve ; add salt and pep-
per, and pour it over the meat. Bake in a moderate oven
one hour. When done, serve it quickly in the dish in
which it was baked.
BEEFSTEAK PIE
1 quart of cold cooked meat, cut into dice
2 slices of bacon, cut into small pieces
6 medium-sized potatoes, cut into dice
Salt and pepper
i tablespoon ful of butter
Line a baking-dish with plain paste. Cover the potatoes
with boiling water and parboil them ten minutes; then
drain. Put a layer of the meat in the bottom of the
100 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
baking-dish, then a layer of the potatoes, then a few pieces
of the bacon, and a few pieces of the paste, about an inch
square ; sprinkle with salt and pepper ; then put in an-
other layer of meat, and so on until all is used. Cut the
butter into bits, and put it over the last layer. Cover
with plain paste, making a small hole in the centre, and
bake in a quick oven three-quarters of an hour.
Make a cream or brown sauce, and when the pie is
done, place a funnel in the hole in the upper crust and
pour the sauce into the pie through it. Serve in the dish
in which it was baked.
BEEF CROQUETTES
Make same as chicken croquettes, leaving out the sweet-
breads, and using one pint of cold cooked beef instead of
chicken.
MEAT RISSOLES
Make a plain hash (see recipe) and stand it out to cool.
Roll out any'pieces of plain or puff paste left from pies or
patties ; cut into cakes with a cutter five inches in diam-
eter j place one tablespoonful of the hash a little on one
side of the centre ; fold over the other side of the paste,
'like a turnover ; press the edges tightly together, and so on
until you have them all made. The recipe given will make
two dozen. Place them in a baking-pan and bake in a
quick oven fifteen minutes. Serve on a heated napkin,
with Bechamel sauce in a boat.
TO PICKLE BEEF
The beef must be fresh killed. Wipe every piece with a
dry towel until free from moisture. If the pieces are very
large, gash them with a knife, here and there, to allow the
brine to penetrate. To fifty pounds of meat allow one
ME A TS 101
and a half ounces of saltpetre, one and a half pounds of
brown sugar, about nine or ten gallons of water, and
sufficient Liverpool salt to make a brine. Mix the sugar,
saltpetre and water together ; add the salt until the brine
will float an egg or a potato. Have ready the meat in a
tub or barrel, pour the brine upon it, skimming off what-
ever may float. Cover well with a thick cloth, and watch
it carefully for one week, skimming every day. The brine
must cover the meat. If the quantity of water given is not
sufficient, make more brine from salt and water, and add to
it. In about two months, drain this brine off, throw it away,
and cover with a new brine made the same as before. In
this way your meat will keep the entire year perfectly sweet.
It will be ready to use after it has been in pickle two weeks.
The skimming is an important point, also the Liverpool
salt. Tongues may be put in the same tub, one or two at
a time, to remain four weeks before smoking. They require
about one week's smoking. When done, wrap each tongue
and sew tightly in coarse muslin ; then hang in a dark,
cool place.
TO CORN BEEF FOR DRYING (Grandmother's Recipe)
Cut a round of beef into four pieces. Rub each piece
lightly with salt on all sides, and let it stand one day be-
fore corning. Make a brine from one tub of water, a half-
pound of sugar, a teaspoon ful of powdered saltpetre, and
salt until the brine will float an egg. Put the meat into
this brine, and allow it to remain two weeks. Cover it
carefully and look at it frequently. See that the brine
covers the meat ; if not, make a little more from salt and
water and add to it. At the end of the two weeks, take
out the meat and hang it in a cool place, to dry. It may
be smoked, but many think this destroys the flavor.
102 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
The latter part of October, March or April are the
best times for corning beef. If the weather is too warm,
the meat will spoil before it dries ; if too cold, it will not
take the salt well.
This recipe will answer also for mutton hams.
TO CORN BEEF FOR BOILING
Wipe the meat carefully and rub hot salt into it until all
disappears ; then add more salt and rub again, and so on
until the meat will imbibe no more. Place it in a jar or
crock, stand in a cold, dry cellar for one week, turning it
every day, and it will be ready for use.
This recipe is for small quantities of meat, to use as
soon as corned.
TO BOIL CORNED BEEF
Wash it well, and put it on to boil in cold water. Bring
slowly to a simmer, and simmer thirty minutes to every
pound.
If the meat is to be served cold, allow it to cool in
the liquor in which it was boiled.
If for a hot dinner, you may boil with it cabbage, tur-
nips and potatoes, allowing an hour and a half for the
cabbage, one hour for turnips, and twenty minutes for the
potatoes to cook.
PRESSED CORNED BEEF
Take six pounds of the brisket of beef, remove the bones
and tie it tightly in a cloth. Put it in a kettle and cover
with cold water. Simmer gently for five hours. When
done, take it out, place it between two tin sheets or large
plates, put a heavy weight upon it over night. Remove
the cloth, and it is ready for use.
ME A TS 103
FRIZZLED BEEF
Chip dried beef very thin. To every half-pound allow a
large tablespoonful of butter, a half-pint of milk, and one
tablespoonful of flour. Melt the butter in a frying-pan,
then add the meat, and stir over the fire for about two min-
utes, or until the butter begins to brown ; dredge in the
flour, stir again, then add the milk and a little pepper, stir
again until it boils, and serve immediately.
FRICASSEE OF DRIED BEEF
Cook the same as frizzled beef, but use two even table-
spoonfuls of flour instead of one. Add the beaten yolks
of two eggs just as you take it from the fire.
Corned beef's liver may be cooked in the same way.
DRIED BEEF RELISH
This is a way to use up the hard, small ends of dried beef,
that you cannot cut.
Grate the meat, and, to every cupful, allow four table
spoonfuls of cream, four eggs, well beaten, and a little
pepper. Put the meat and cream into a stewing-pan ;
when hot, add the eggs; stir until the mixture becomes
thick. Serve immediately on squares of buttered toast.
STEWED BEEF'S HEART
Soak the heart three hours in cold water, remove the mus-
cles from the inside, and take out every atom of blood.
Make a forcemeat as follows : One cup of bread crumbs,
one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one tablespoonful of
melted butter, half a teaspoonful of marjoram, half a teaspoon -
ful of salt, and two dashes of black pepper ; mix, and stuff
the heart. Tie it together with twine, and wrap tightly in
a cloth, sewing the ends together so that the stuffing cannot
possibly get out. Put it into a small stewpan with the
104 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
point of the heart down, nearly cover with boiling water,
and simmer until tender about three hours. When done,
there should be about a pint of water in the stewpan.
Remove the cloth and dish the heart. Put one tablespoon-
ful of butter in the frying-pan, and when brown add two
tablespoonfuls of flour; mix well, and add the water in
which the heart was boiled; stir constantly until it boils;
add salt and pepper to taste. Take from the fire, and, if you
use it, add four tablespoon fuls of sherry ; pour it over the
heart, and serve very hot, as it chills quickly. Currant
jelly should always be served with beef's heart.
BAKED BEEF'S HEART
Prepare the same as for stewed heart, remove the cloth,
place the heart in a baking-pan, baste with melted butter,
and brown in a quick oven. When done, place it on a
heated dish. Put one tablespoonful of butter in the baking-
pan, and, when brown, add two tablespoon fuls of flour,
and a pint of the water in which the heart was stewed ; stir
constantly until it boils, add salt and pepper to taste, and
four tablespoonfuls of sherry. Pour it over the heart, and
serve very hot.
SPICED BEEF'S HEART
Soak the heart three hours in cold water, remove the mus-
cles from the inside and take out every atom of blood.
Mix together one teaspoonful of allspice, a half-teaspoonful
of cloves, a half-teaspoonful of cinnamon, a quarter-tea-
spoonful of mace or nutmeg, three tablespoonfuls of vinegar,
and two dashes of black pepper. Put this mixture into
the heart, rub a little on the outside, and stand in a
cold place over night. In the morning, finish the same as
a baked heart. Have all the spices finely ground.
ME A TS 105
HEART WITH VEAU STUFFING
Soak and clean as in the preceding recipes. Make a filling
as follows : One pound of uncooked veal, chopped fine, a
quarter-pound of salt pork, chopped fine, or a quarter-
pound of sausage-meat, two heaping tablespoonfuls of dried
bread crumbs, a tablespoonful of onion juice, one tea-
spoonful of salt, a quarter-teaspoonful of black pepper,
if you like, a dozen mushrooms, chopped fine, and one
egg slightly beaten. Mix all these ingredients well together,
and stuff the heart. Wrap tightly in a cloth and sew it.
Stand it in a small saucepan, with the point down, cover
with boiling water, and simmer slowly three hours; then take
it out and remove the cloth. Bake in a quick oven one
hour, basting every ten minutes with a little melted butter.
Serve with a brown sauce, the same as baked heart.
This is also a nice cold dish, cut in thin slices, using
no sauce.
STEWED KIDNEYS
Be sure that the kidneys are perfectly fresh. Split them in
halves ; trim off with a sharp-pointed knife, as carefully as
possible, the sinews and fat that are inside. Now cut the
kidneys into small pieces, put in a stewing-pan, cover with
cold water, stand on a moderate fire, and bring almost to
boiling point. Drain this water off, cover with fresh cold
water, and heat again. Do this three times, each time
being careful that it does not boil, or the kidney will be
hard and tough. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a
frying-pan, and stir until a nice brown ; then add one
tablespoonful of flour and a half-pint of stock or boiling
water. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon until it boils.
Now add one tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, one
tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, salt and pepper, and
106 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
the kidney. Stir agaia until the kidney is thoroughly
heated ; take from the fire, add four tablespoon fuls of
sherry, and serve immediately.
KIDNEY SAUTE
Split the kidney in halves lengthwise, and trim off, as care-
fully as possible, every sinew and all the fat from the inside.
Cut it into small pieces. Put two tablespoon fuls of butter
into a frying-pan ; when melted, add one small onion cut
into slices, and the kidney; stir with a wooden spoon,
over a brisk fire, for about three minutes ; then add one
tablespoonful of flour; stir again, then add one gill of
stock or water, one gill of sherry ; salt and pepper to taste.
Stir again about one minute, and serve immediately.
KIDNEY Terrapin Style
Prepare and cleanse the kidney the same as for stewing.
Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan ; when
melted, add to it one tablespoonful of flour, mix, add a
half-pint of milk, stir constantly until it boils ; add the
kidney, salt and pepper to taste. Stir with a wooden
spoon until the kidney is thoroughly heated. Take from
the fire, add the yolk of one egg, two tablespoon fuls of
sherry, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Serve
immediately. Calf's liver may be dressed in the same
way.
TO CORN A BEEF'S LIVER
Make a brine from two gallons of water, three-quarters of
a pound of brown sugar, a half-ounce of saltpetre, and
salt until the brine will float an egg. Pour it into a stone
or earthen vessel. Wash and wipe a perfectly healthy
beef's liver, put it into this brine, and allow it to remain
for one week ; then take it out and hang it to dry in a cool
place. When dry, chip and frizzle the same as dried beef.
This is the nicest way of using beef's liver.
ME A TS 107
FRIED BEEF'S LIVER
Cut the liver into slices about a quarter of an inch in thick-
ness, pour boiling water over them ; let stand five minutes,
then wipe them, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and flour. Put
three or four slices of fat bacon in a frying-pan and try
out all the fat ; then put in the liver ; fry on one side, then
turn and fry on the other. Do not cook it long (about
two minutes) or it will be hard, dry, and indigestible.
When done, spread lightly with butter, and serve.
It is also very nice served with maitre d' hotel butter.
TRIPE
Tripe is the large stomach of the ruminating animals, and
is chiefly composed of fibrin, albumen, and water. It is
nutritious and easily digested.
To prepare. Scald the stomach with boiling water suf-
ficiently to loosen the inside coating. If properly scalded,
it will easily scrape off. Wash it well through several boil-
ing waters, then put it into cold water and soak over night.
Scrape again until white and clean. Place it in a stewpan,
cover with cold water ; add one onion, a sprig of parsley,
twelve whole cloves, and twelve pepper-corns. Simmer
gently for six hours, and it is ready to use in any way. It
is usually sold in cities cleaned, but not boiled.
STEWED TRIPE
Cut two pounds of boiled tripe (half honeycomb and half
plain) into pieces about one and a half inches long and
a half-inch wide. Cut two ounces of ham into dice, and
put it in a stewpan, add a slice of onion, a sprig of parsley,
and one bay leaf. Stir over the fire until brown, then add
one tablespoonful of flour, mix, add one pint of milk.
Stir constantly until it boils, then add the tripe, salt, and
108 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
pepper, and let it stand over a very moderate fire for five
minutes. Remove the onion, parsley, and bay leaf, and it
is ready to serve.
FRIED TRIPE
It is better to give tripe its long boiling the day before you
want it. Cut the tripe into pieces about the size of an
oyster, sprinkle with salt and pepper, let stand ten minutes.
Dip first in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry
in boiling fat. Serve with sauce Tartare.
It may also be dipped in French fritter batter and
fried. Serve without sauce.
BROILED TRIPE
Cut boiled tripe into pieces about two inches square, season
with salt and cayenne, baste lightly with melted butter,
and broil until brown on one side, then turn and brown
the other. Serve on a hot dish, with onion sauce in a
boat.
TRIPE WITH MUSHROOMS
Cut two pounds of boiled tripe into pieces about one inch
square. Cut a quarter-pound of salt bacon into slices, and
try out all the fat ; take out the bacon and throw it away.
Season the tripe with salt and pepper, and cover it with
flour, then brown it on both sides in the hot bacon- fat.
Take it carefully out of the fat and put it on a hot dish ;
add one tablespoonful of flour to the fat remaining, mix,
add a half-pint of stock or water, and a dozen mushrooms,
chopped fine; stir until it boils. Then add one table-
spoonful of vinegar ; salt and pepper to taste. Pour it over
the tripe, and serve very hot. Sherry may be used instead
of vinegar, if liked.
ME A TS 109
TRIPE AND OYSTERS
50 oysters i pound of boiled tripe
i pint of cream i tablespoonful of butter
1 tablespoonful of flour Salt and pepper to taste
Boil the oysters in their own liquor one minute ; drain.
Put the cream and a half-pint of the liquor on to boil.
Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the boiling
cream ; stir constantly until it boils, add the tripe cut into
pieces about one inch square; let come to a boil, add salt
and pepper, and then the oysters, bring to a boil again and
serve very hot.
SOUSED TRIPE
2 pounds of boiled tripe i pint of vinegar
(honeycomb) i blade of mace
1 8 whole cloves 18 whole allspice
12 pepper-corns y z teaspoonful of salt
i small onion
Cut the tripe into pieces about two inches long and one
inch wide. Put all the other ingredients into a porcelain
kettle to boil. Put the tripe in a glass or stone jar, pour
the boiling vinegar over it, and stand away for forty-eight
hours. It will keep two or three weeks.
TONGUE
TO BOIL SMOKED BEEF'S TONGUE
Wash the tongue well, and soak it in cold water over night.
In the morning put it into a kettle full of cold water, stand
it over a very slow fire, and simmer gently for four hours,
or until you can pierce it with a fork, and it will be per-
fectly tender. If the water boils away, add more boiling
water. When done, stand away to cool in the liquor in
which it was boiled; when cold, remove the skin, begin-
ning at the tip, and stripping it back, and it is ready to use.
110 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
If you wish to serve it as a hot meat dish for dinner,
take it out when done; skin, place on a heated platter,
cover the root end with sprigs of parsley, and garnish the
dish with black-currant jelly. Another very pretty way to
serve cold boiled tongue, is to cut it in thin slices,
arrange the slices around a large meat plate, each one over-
lapping the other, with sauce Tartare in the centre of the
dish. Make six button radishes into tulips (as directed),
stand them at equal distances around the dish. Nastur-
tium flowers may be placed between, with little bunches of
water-cress.
BRAISED TONGUE
1 fresh beef's tongue 2 tablespoon fuls of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of flour i quart of stock or the water
i carrot in which the tongue was
i onion boiled
Sprig of parsley i turnip
1 potato Stalk of celery or one-half
2 bay leaves teaspoon ful of celery
i tablespoonful of Wor- seed
cestershire sauce i tablespoon ful of mushroom
Salt and pepper to taste catsup
Wash the tongue, put it into a kettle and cover with boiling
water ; simmer slowly for two hours. Then take out the
tongue, skin it, trim off the rough pieces at the roots, and
remove the bones. Now tie the tip of the tongue around
to the side of the thicker part ; fasten it. Now put the
butter in a frying-pan and brown it, then add the flour ;
mix well ; then add the stock and onion, carrot, turnip, and
potato, sliced, parsley, bay leaves, Worcestershire sauce,
and catsup ; stir until it boils. Put the tongue in a baking
or braising-pan, pour this sauce around it ; if in a baking-
pan, cover, put it in the oven, and bake two tyours, basting
every fifteen minutes. When done, dish the tongue, re-
ME A TS 111
move the strings. Boil the sauce until reduced to one
pint, pour it over and around the tongue, and serve. This
may be garnished with mushrooms, or vegetables cut into
fancy shapes.
TURKISH TONGUE
( Sophia Wells Royce Williams )
i fresh beef's tongue 3 button onions
y? dozen cloves 6 pepper-corns
YZ pound of raisins ^ pound of dates
i carrot, cut into fancy A heaping teaspoon ful of
shapes salt
Wash the tongue, put it in a kettle, cover with boiling
water and simmer two hours. Then take it out, skin it
and tie into shape, the same as for braised tongue. Pour
the water out of the soup-kettle (this may be saved for
soup), return the tongue to the kettle, and add all the other
ingredients ; cover with two quarts of fresh boiling water,
and simmer gently two hours longer. Serve with some of
the raisins and carrots around the dish.
LARDED AND SPICED TONGUE
1 fresh beefs tongue ^ teaspoon ful of black
Y\ pound of larding pork pepper
YZ. teaspoonful of cloves 2 tablespoon fuls of butter
YZ teaspoonful of allspice 2 tablespoon fuls of flour
YI teaspoonful of salt i onion
2 bay leaves i carrot
Wash the tongue, put it into boiling water, and simmer
gently two hours. Take it out, remove the skin and trim
off the roots. Put the butter in a large stewpan, and when
brown add the flour, then add one quart of the liquor in
which the tongue was boiled (save the remainder for stock) ;
stir constantly until it boils, then add the spices, the onion
chopped fine, and the carrot cut into fancy shapes. Lard
the tongue on the upper syie the same as a fillet, put it into
112 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
the stewpan, and simmer gently for two hours, adding a
quarter teaspoonful of coriander seed one hour before it is
done. Serve with the under side of the tongue down, and
the sauce poured over and around it. The coriander seed
may be omitted.
FILLETS OF TONGUE
Cut any pieces of cold tongue that may be Jeft from either
of the preceding dishes in slices about a half-inch thick.
Fry them in butter, and serve with mushroom sauce.
TONGUE ON TOAST
i cup of cold boiled tongue or ham
Yolks of two eggs
fy teaspoonful of mustard
Dash of cayenne
Chop the tongue or ham very fine. Beat the yolks until
light, add them to tongue or ham, add the seasoning, stir
the whole over the fire until the eggs are cooked. Serve
immediately on squares of buttered toast.
MUTTON
Mutton is usually divided into fore and hind quarters. The
hind quarter is sub-divided into leg and loin, the fore
quarter into shoulder, breast and neck. A saddle of mut-
ton is two loins. Mutton is very much better if hung at
least one week in cold weather, but three weeks will not
hurt it. The flesh of good Southdown mutton should be a
bright red color, the fat firm and white; and the fatter the
mutton the better and more tender the lean parts. The
leg, shoulder, and loin make nice roasting pieces. The
breast and neck are used for soups and stews. The loins
are also cut into loin and French chops.
ME A TS 113
BAKED LEG OF MUTTON
Procure a nice well-hung leg of Southdown mutton weigh-
ing not less than ten pounds. Wipe it with a damp towel,
place in a baking-pan, dredge with pepper, add one tea-
spoonful of salt to one cup of boiling water, and pour it
into a pan. Now place the pan in a very hot oven, and baste
every ten minutes, adding no more water after the first
evaporates, as there will be sufficient fat for basting. Bake
fifteen minutes to every pound. Decorate the bone with a
quilling of white paper, and serve with brown sauce, the
same as roast beef. To roast in the tin kitchen, proceed in
the same manner as for roast beef.
MUTTON Venison Style
Take a hind quarter of a good four-year-old Southdown
mutton. Wash it well, inside and out, with cider vinegar;
do not wipe it, but hang in a cold, dry place, not in
the cellar if you can possibly find another place, as the
moisture of a cellar is very apt to spoil the meat. Sponge
in this way every other day for one week. Then mix a quar-
ter ounce each of white pepper and allspice together, and
rub well into the meat. Do this two days in succession,
and let it hang another week. When ready to use, sponge
off the spices with vinegar, and wipe dry. Roast the same
as a leg of mutton, adding to the sauce, just before you pour
it into the boat, one tablespoonful of mushroom catsup,
one tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and if you use
wine, four tablespoon fuls of sherry. Serve with red or
black currant jelly in a separate dish.
BOILED LEG OF MUTTON
Wipe the leg with a damp towel. Dust a cloth thickly
with flour, and wrap the leg up in it. Put it into a kettle,
cover with boiling water, and simmer gently fifteen minutes
114 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
to every pound; add a teaspoonful of salt when the leg is
half done. When done, remove the towel carefully, gar-
nish with parsley, trim the bone with quilled paper, and
serve with caper sauce either in a sauce-boat or poured over
the mutton. Save the liquor in which it was boiled for
stock.
BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON
Wipe the leg with a damp towel. Slice one carrot, one
onion, one turnip, in the bottom of a baking or braising
pan, add also two bay leaves, one stalk of celery, four
cloves, and a sprig of parsley. Place the leg on top these
vegetables, add one quart of water or stock and one tea-
spoonful of salt. Put on the lid, if a braising-pan ; if a
baking-pan, cover with another pan. Put into a quick
oven, and braise fifteen minutes to every pound. When
done, take out on a heated dish. Put one large tablespoon-
ful of butter in a frying-pan and stir over the fire until a nice
brown ; then add two tablespoonful of flour, mix, and add
one pint of the liquor from braising-pan ; stir constantly
until it boils ; add one tablespoonful of Worcestershire
sauce, one tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, salt and
pepper to taste. Pour this over and around the leg. Serve
currant jelly with it.
SADDLE OF MUTTON
( Baked or Roasted in the Oven )
Bake or roast the same as a leg, ten minutes to every pound
of meat.
SHOULDER OF MUTTON
This maybe roasted plain, or have the bone taken out, and
the space filled with a bread stuffing, the same as for poul-
try. Bake fifteen minutes to every pound.
ME A TS 115
BROILED CHOPS
Chops are broiled exactly the same as beefsteak, trimming
off most of the fat before broiling. Serve plain with but-
ter, pepper and salt, or with tomato sauce.
French chops are broiled in the same manner, deco-
rating the bones with paper quillings.
BREADED CHOPS
Broil French chops ten minutes, turning them very often.
Take them from the broiler, baste with melted butter, sea-
son with salt and pepper ; let them stand ten minutes.
Then dip them in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, and
fry in boiling fat. Fill the bottom of a meat dish with
tomato sauce, slip the paper quillings over the end of the
bones, and arrange the chops nicely in the sauce. Garnish
with parsley, and serve very hot.
BREADED CHOPS WITH PUREE OF POTATOES
Broil and bread the chops as directed in preceding recipe.
Have ready six boiled potatoes, mash them fine, add a half-
cup of boiling cream, one teaspoonful of salt, one table-
spoonful of butter, and a dash or two of pepper ; beat
over the fire until light. Place in the centre of a heated
dish, stand the chops around it, trim each bone with paper
quillings, and serve very hot.
BROILED CHOPS WITH POTATO PUREE
Broil French chops as directed. Put a tablespoonful of
potato puff mixture on each chop, and place in a baking-
pan. Brown in a quick oven, decorate the bones with
papers, garnish with parsley and serve immediately, or the
potato will fall.
116 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
MUTTON en PAPILLOTE
1/2 pound sausage meat 6 loin cutlets
Yolk of one egg i onion
2 tablespoonfuls of butter
Put one tablespoonful of the butter in a frying-pan, and
when hot, brown the cutlets on both sides. Take them out,
season with salt and pepper. Add the remainder of the
butter to the frying-pan, the onion cut into slices, and the
sausage meat ; stir over the fire for fifteen minutes. When
done, take from the fire, add the yolk of the egg and a
tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Cut six pieces of white
paper in a heart-like shape, large enough to hold one cutlet
each. Put a tablespoonful of the mixture on one side of
the paper; put a cutlet on top of this, then another spoon-
ful of the mixture on top of that, fold the other half of the
paper over all. The edges should then be folded together
tightly one over the other. Place them in a hot oven
for fifteen minutes. Serve in the papers with Bechamel
sauce.
CURRY OF MUTTON
i pint of finely chopped ^ cupful of rice
mutton i tablespoonful curry
i tablespoonful of butter powder
i tablespoonful of flour 2 quarts boiling water
Salt to taste
Wash the rice and put it in the boiling water; let it boil
thirty-five minutes. Drain in a colander. Now put the
butter in a frying-pan ; when melted, add the flour and stir
until smooth ; add a half-pint of boiling water ; let boil
up once, then add meat, curry and salt. Stir ten minutes.
Now heap it in the centre of a meat dish, and put the rice
around, in a border. Brush all over with beaten egg, and
place in the oven a few minutes to brown.
MEA TS 117
SCALI.OP OF MUTTON
Take scraps of cold mutton and cut in small pieces ; put a
layer in the bottom of a baking-dish, then a layer of stewed
tomatoes, then a layer of bread crumbs ; sprinkle with salt
and pepper, and put over a few bits of butter, then another
layer of meat, and so on until the dish is full. Have the
last layer crumbs. Bake in a moderate oven one and a
half hours.
SHEPHERD'S PIE
i pound of cold mutton i tablespoonful of butter
i pint of cold boiled pota- ^ cup of stock or water
toes Salt and pepper to taste
THE CRUST
4 good-sized potatoes
j^" cup of cream
Salt and pepper to taste
Cut the mutton and boiled potatoes into pieces about one
inch square ; put them in a deep pie or baking-dish, add
the stock or water, salt, pepper, and half the butter cut into
small bits. Then make the crust as follows : Pare and boil
the potatoes, then mash them, add the cream, the remain-
der of the butter, salt and pepper, beat until light. Now
add flour enough to make a soft dough about one cupful.
Roll it out into a sheet, make a hole in the centre of the
crust, to allow the escape of steam. Bake in a moderate
oven one hour, serve in the same dish.
HOT POT
2 pounds of cold cooked mutton
6 medium-sized potatoes
2 large onions
i tablespoonful of chopped parsley
i quart of water or stock
Cut the mutton into pieces about one inch square. Pare and
cut four of the potatoes into dice, also the onions. Put a
118 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
layer of the mutton in the bottom of a baking-dish, then a
layer of potatoes, then a sprinkling of onion, parsley, salt
and pepper, and continue these alternations until all is used.
Cut the remaining two potatoes into three slices each ;
cover these over the top, add the water or stock, and bake
in a moderate oven for two hours. Serve in the baking-
dish.
RAGOUT OF MUTTON
Cut cold mutton or lamb into pieces about one inch square.
Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan, and, when
very brown, add one tablespoonful of flour ; mix ; add a
half-pint of stock or water ; stir constantly until it boils,
then add salt and pepper to taste, and a teaspoonful of
Worcestershire sauce. Now add one pint of the mutton,
and stand the frying-pan over boiling water for fifteen
minutes, until the mutton is thoroughly heated. Add one
tablespoonful of currant jelly and one of sherry. Send
to the table very hot.
CHINESE MUTTON
1 pint of cold roast or boiled mutton, chopped fine
2 tablespoonfuls of butter
YV pint of water or stock
y<2, pint of green peas or ^ can
i onion
Small head of lettuce
Salt and pepper to taste
Put the mutton, butter, stock, peas (uncooked, if green),
salt, pepper, lettuce, and onion chopped fine on to stew
slowly for one hour. When done, have ready one cup of
rice nicely boiled. Put the mixture in the centre of a
heated dish, and the rice as a border around it, and serve.
Curry sauce may be served with the dish, and is a nice
accompaniment.
ME A TS 119
IRISH STEW
3 pounds of the neck of mutton
4 potatoes, cut into dice
4 good-sized onions
2 quarts of water
Salt and pepper to taste
Cut the meat into small pieces, cover with the water, which
should be boiling, add the onions sliced and simmer gently
for three hours. About half an hour before the meat is
done add the potatoes. Season with salt and pepper, and,
if you like it, the beaten yolk of an egg. Serve.
Dumplings may be added the same as in stew of beef
with dumplings.
HARICOT OF MUTTON
2 pounds of loin chops i turnip
2 onions i carrot
i bay leaf i tablespoonful of flour
i tablespoonful of mushroom ^ pint of water or stock
catsup i tablespoonful of butter
i stalk of celery Salt and pepper
Put the butter in a frying-pan and, when very hot, fry the
chops brown on both sides ; take them up, and add the
flour to the butter remaining in the pan ; mix, and add
the stock or water ; stir constantly until it boils. Then put
the chops back, add the onions cut into slices, salt, pepper,
the celery cut into small pieces, and the catsup. Stand over
a slow fire to simmer for three-quarters of an hour. Cut
the carrot and turnip into slices, then into fancy shapes
with vegetable cutters ; cover them with boiling water, boil
ten minutes; drain, and add them, with the bay leaf, to
the meat, and allow them to simmer with the meat the full
time it is cooking. When done, add one tablespoonful of
sherry, if you use it, and serve very hot.
120 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
SHEEP'S HEAD HASH
Clean a sheep's head, according to directions for cleaning
calf's head, then put it on to stew with the liver and heart
well washed, add one onion, and simmer gently one and a
half hours. When done, take out and stand away to cool.
When cold, take all the meat from the head, chop it with
the heart and liver very fine. Now put them into a stew-
ing-pan, add one large tablespoonful of butter, and one
pint of water, or liquor in which they were boiled, salt and
pepper ; let stew up once, and serve with squares of toast
around the dish.
DRESSED SHEEP'S HEAD
A sheep's head may be dressed the same as a calf's head,
using two heads instead of one calf's head.
SHEEP'S TONGUE
Fresh sheep's tongues may be braised the same as beef's
tongue, using one dozen for the recipe given.
TO BOIL SALT OR SMOKED SHEEP'S TONGUES
Wash one dozen sheep's tongues, and soak them over night
in cold water. In the morning, put them in a kettle of
cold water and bring them slowly to a boil ; skim all the
scum from the top, and simmer two hours. When done,
skin and serve around a bed of kale or spinach.
SHEEP KIDNEYS en BROCHETTE No. i
6 sheep's kidneys
% pound of bacon
i tablespoonful of butter
Cut each kidney through the centre lengthwise, remove the
white veins and fat. Wash well in cold water, cover with
boiling water and let stand five minutes, then wipe them
ME A TS 121
dry. Cut the bacon into slices, and then into pieces the
size of a half-kidney. Place one piece of kidney on a
skewer, then a piece of bacon, then kidney, and so on,
allowing about three pieces of bacon and two pieces of
kidney to each skewer. Place them on a broiler, baste with
the butter, and broil over a clear fire five minutes. Dust
lightly with salt and pepper and serve on the skewers.
These make a very nice breakfast relish.
SHEEP KIDNEYS en BROCHETTE No. 2
Cut six sheep's kidneys nearly through without dividing,
take out the white veins, wash and scald the same as in
preceding recipe. Wipe them dry, and baste them with
melted butter. Run a small skewer through each kidney
in such a way as to keep the halves partly open. Broil
them over a clear fire for about five minutes, take them
carefully from the skewers, dust them lightly with salt and
pepper, fill the centres with Bearnnaise sauce, and serve
immediately.
LAMB
Lamb, like mutton, should be of a bright red color with
white fat. It is in season from April to September, but is
best when two months old. It will not keep like mutton,
and should be used at least within three days after killing.
Like veal, it is unwholesome if not thoroughly cooked.
The better way of cooking is to roast or bake it. The loin
may be cut into chops and cooked the same as mutton
chops.
TO BAKE OR ROAST A QUARTER OF LAMB
Wipe the meat with a damp towel, place it in a baking-pan,
and dredge it with pepper. Put one teaspoonful of salt in
122 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
the bottom of the pan, add one cup of water to baste with
at first. When that evaporates, use its own drippings.
Lamb must be basted every ten minutes and baked fifteen
minutes to every pound, in a very hot oven.
Mint sauce, green peas, and asparagus tips should be
served with spring lamb.
VEAL
Veal is divided, the same as mutton, into fore and hind
quarters; the fore quarter is sub-divided into loin, breast,
shoulder, and neck ; the hind, into leg and loin.
Chops are cut from the loin, and the leg is used for
cutlets and fillets. The fillet is a solid piece cut from the
leg, also called a cushion, and does not correspond with
the fillet of beef.
Do not buy veal that is too young, as it is not only
unwholesome, but dangerous. It may be known by the
small and tender bones ; the flesh has a bluish tinge and a
soft, flabby appearance. A calf should not be killed until
it is two months old, then the flesh is firm, with a pinkish
tinge, and the bones are hard.
The loin, shoulder, fillet, and breast are used for roast-
ing. The knuckle, which is the lower part of the leg after
'the cutlets are taken off, and the neck, are used for soups,
stews and pies.
ROAST LOIN OF VEAL
Wipe the loin, place it in a baking-pan, dredge it with
pepper, add a teaspoon ful of salt and cup of water to the
pan, place in a very quick oven for fifteen minutes ; then
cool the oven somewhat by closing the drafts, or lifting a
ME A TS 123
lid off the stove if necessary, and roast slowly fifteen min-
utes for every pound of veal, basting frequently, at first
with the water in the pan, and afterwards with its own gravy.
Veal must be well done to be eatable. When done, make
a gravy the same as roast beef.
STUFFED BREAST OF VEAL
FOR THE STUFFING
i cup of bread crumbs ^ pound of salt pork
i teaspoonful of sweet i teaspoonful of thyme
marjoram i teaspoonful of salt
2 dashes pepper
Chop the pork very fine, add it and all the other ingredi-
ents to the bread crumbs. Wipe a breast of veal with a
damp towel; make long gashes between the ribs, and fill
with this stuffing. Place it in a baking-pan, and roast and
finish the same as the loin.
ROAST SHOULDER OF VEAL
Have the butcher remove the bone from the shoulder, fill
the space from which the bone was taken with a stuffing
made the same as for the breast ; pin the meat together
with a skewer to prevent the stuffing from coming out, and
roast the same as in preceding recipes.
VEAt CUTLETS
Have the cutlets as thin as possible. Dust with salt, pepper,
and flour. Put a tablespoonful of dripping in a frying-pan,
and, when very hot, put in the cutlets ; when brown on one
side, turn and brown on the other; take out and place on
a heated dish. Add a tablespoonful of flour to the fat
remaining in the pan, mix, and stir until brown ; add a
half-pint of water, stir until it boils, add salt and pepper to
taste, pour over the cutlets, and serve.
124 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
VEAL CUTLETS BREADED
Have the cutlets as thin as possible, cover them with boiling
water, let stand one minute, drain and wipe dry. Cut into
pieces about two inches square. Dip first in beaten egg
and then in bread crumbs. Put two tablespoon fuls of drip-
ping in a frying-pan ; when hot, fry the cutlets first on
one side and then on the other. Dish, and serve with
brown gravy made according to preceding recipe or with
maitre d' hotel butter.
GRENADINES OF VEAL
These are made the same as grenadines of beef.
A BREAKFAST RELISH
Cut a cutlet of veal into pieces about two inches square,
and season with salt and pepper. Dip first into beaten egg,
then into chopped mushrooms. Put two tablespoon fuls of
butter in a frying-pan, and, when hot, fry the cutlets until
brown. Make a brown sauce the same as for veal cutlets,
pour over the squares, and serve.
VEAL CROQUETTES
Veal croquettes are made precisely the same as chicken
croquettes, using chopped veal and leaving out the sweet-
breads (calf's brains may be added in their place), and, if
made carefully, good judges can scarcely discern the dif-
ference.
I remember upon one occasion my college class pre-
pared a supper, from a limited sum of money, for the
remainder of the students, numbering nearly two hundred.
As our purse would not warrant chicken, and we must have
croquettes, we used for them a leg of veal, boiled with one
lonely chicken ; and the croquettes were pronounced excel-
lent by all, one gentleman asking for one to take home to
his wife, that she might taste a perfect chicken croquette.
MEATS 125
FRICANDELLES OF VEAL
i pound of lean veal i gill of milk
y?, cup of stale bread i teaspoonful of salt
crumbs 2 dashes of pepper
i large tablespoon ful of butter
Cook the bread crumbs and milk together until thick and
smooth. Chop the veal (which must be uncooked) very
fine, add this to the bread and milk, add the salt, pepper,
and butter, and stand the mixture away to cool. When
cool, form into balls about the size of an egg. Dip them
in beaten egg and fry in butter until a light brown, being
very careful not to burn them; take them carefully out
of the pan. Add two tablespoon fuls of flour to the butter
remaining in the pan if not burned if it is, take two table-
spoonfuls of fresh butter and brown it mix, add one pint
of stock, stir until it boils, add salt and pepper to taste.
Pour this into a saucepan, put in the fricandelles, cover, and
simmer for one hour. When done, add a tablespoon ful of
Worcestershire sauce, and serve.
Fricandelles are equally nice made from beef or
chicken.
VEAL OLIVES
i^ pounds of veal cutlet, cut very thin
i tablespoonful of chopped parsley
i tablespoonful of melted butter
i pint of stock or boiling water
i cup of stale bread crumbs
i teaspoonful of salt
i tablespoonful of sweet marjoram
Y^ pound of bacon
i tablespoonful of flour
i bay leaf
i tablespoonful of mushroom catsup
Pepper to taste
Cut the veal into strips about three inches long and two
inches wide. Make a filling from the bread crumbs, salt,
126 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
pepper to taste, parsley, sweet marjoram, and melted butter.
Mix thoroughly and spread on the strips of veal, roll them
up and tie tightly with twine ; now roll them in flour. Put
the bacon in a frying-pan, and try out all the fat. Put the
olives in this, and brown them on all sides. Now put them
in a saucepan, add the flour to the fat remaining in the
pan, and stir until a nice brown ; then add the stock or
boiling water, and stir until it boils ; add salt and pepper
to taste; pour it over the olives; add the bay leaf and
mushroom catsup, cover the saucepan, and let simmer for
two hours. Then take up, cut the strings with a sharp
knife, and remove them. Put the olives in a row on the
dish, strain the sauce over them, and serve.
FRICANDEAU OF VEAL
4 pounds of the fillet of veal i carrot
i onion i bay leaf
1 stalk of celery i turnip
2 sprigs of parsley ^ pound of larding pork
i teaspoon ful of salt
Cut the larding pork into lardoons, and lard the fillet
thickly over one side. Clean the vegetables, cut them into
slices, and put them into a braising or baking-pan with the
bay leaf, salt and parsley. Lay the fricandeau on the top
of these with the larded side uppermost, and pour around
it one quart of stock or water. Put the lid on the braising-
pan, or cover the baking-pan with another, and bake in a
moderate oven two hours, basting four times. When done,
dish the fricandeau, and make a sauce as follows :
1 tablespoonful of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of flour
i tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce
i tablespoonful of mushroom catsup
Put the butter in a frying-pan and stir over the fire until a
dark brown ; then add the flour, mix, and strain the liquor
MEATS 127
from the braising-pan into this, which should be one pint
if not, add stock or water ; stir constantly until it boils.
Take from the fire, add the sauce and catsup, salt and pep-
per to taste, pour around the fricandeau, and serve.
Green peas are an appropriate accompaniment to this
dish.
VEAL POT PIE
i knuckle of veal i quart of sifted flour
i teaspoonful of salt 2 teaspoon fuls of baking
i large spoonful of lard powder
i small onion y z pint of milk
3 pints of water
Put the water in a stewpan, add the knuckle, onion and
salt, and let all simmer until the meat is tender about an
hour and a quarter. There must be at least two-thirds of
a quart of liquor when the meat is done ; if it has evapo-
rated, add hot water to make sufficient quantity. Put the
flour into a bowl, add the salt, then rub in the lard ; add
the baking-powder, mix, and moisten with the milk. Roll
out on a board, cut with a round cutter, and place over
the top of the meat ; cover the stewpan and boil fifteen
minutes.
VEAL PIE
i knuckle of veal ^ pound of ham
i onion 4 potatoes, medium size
i large tablespoon ful of i tablespoonful of chopped
butter parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
Wipe the knuckle, put it in a kettle, partly cover it with
water, add one onion, and simmer gently one hour. Pare
the potatoes and cut them into dice ; parboil fifteen min-
utes and drain. When the veal is done, cut all the meat
from the bone, return the bone to the kettle, and let it
simmer two or three hours longer for stock. Cut the ham
into dice. Line a two-quart tin basin with plain paste,
128 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
and cut the trimmings from the edge into squares. Now
put a layer of potatoes in the bottom, then a layer of veal,
then a sprinkling of ham, the squares of paste, parsley, salt
and pepper, and a few bits of butter, and follow these alter-
nations until all is used. Roll out the top crust, make a
hole in the centre, wet the edges of the pie with cold water,
put on the top crust, press the edges together, and trim.
Bake in a quick oven for thirty minutes, or until the crust
is done. While this is baking, prepare the sauce.
Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan, and
when melted, add two even tablespoon fuls of flour, mix,
but do not brown ; add a half-pint of the liquor in which
the knuckle was boiled, and a half-pint of milk, stir con-
stantly until it boils"; add the salt and pepper, take from
the fire, add the beaten yolk of one egg and a tablespoonful
of chopped parsley, and pour it into the pie, when done,
through a funnel placed in the opening of the upper crust.
Serve immediately.
STEWED KNUCKLE OF VEAL
Wipe the knuckle well with a damp towel. Cut it into
pieces where it has been cracked. Put it into a kettle with
two quarts of boiling water, add one onion cut into slices,
one carrot cut into fancy shapes, half a pound of ham cut
into dice, and one bay leaf. Cover and stew slowly for two
hours, then add a half-cup of washed rice, stew thirty min-
utes longer, and serve.
VEAL LOAF
3^ pounds of veal . ^ pound of ham
i cup of bread crumbs 2 eggs
i teaspoon ful of salt ^ teaspoon ful of pepper
i teaspoonful of onion ^ teaspoonful of sage
juice YZ teaspoonful of cloves
YZ teaspoonful of allspice
Chop the uncooked veal and ham very fine ; add to them
ME A TS 129
all the other ingredients, the eggs well beaten ; mix thor-
oughly, and press into a square pan to mould. Turn it
out on a baking-pan, brush it over with beaten egg, and
bake in a slow oven for two hours, basting three or four
times while baking with a tablespoon ml of butter melted
in a half-cup of boiling water. Serve cold, cut in thin slices.
JELLIED VEAL
1 knuckle of veal 1 2 whole cloves
2 onions 6 pepper-corns
i blade of mace ^ teaspoon ful of ground
i bay leaf allspice
i gill of good vinegar Salt and pepper to taste
Wipe the knuckle and cut it into pieces ; put it in a kettle
with two quarts of cold water ; bring it slowly to simmer-
ing point ; skin, and simmer gently for two hours ; then
add the onion, mace, bay leaf, cloves, pepper-corns, and
allspice, and simmer one hour longer. Take out the
knuckle, carefully remove the bones, and put the meat
into a square mould. Boil the liquor until reduced to one
quart ; strain, add the vinegar, salt and pepper to taste,
pour it over the meat, and stand it away over night to
cool. When cold, turn it carefully out of the mould,
garnish it with parsley and lemon, and it is ready to serve.
RAGOUT OF VEAL No. i
For this, the remains of a cold fricandeau or roast may be
used, cut into pieces about one inch square. To every
pint of these squares allow
y 2 pint of stock i tablespoonful of mushroom
i tablespoonful of butter catsup
i tablespoonful of flour 2 tablespoon fuls of sherry
i tablespoonful of Wor- i tablespoonful of onion juice
cestershire sauce i blade of mace
6 mushrooms, chopped fine
130 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Put the butter in a frying-pan, and stir until a nice brown;
then add the flour, and brown again ; then add the stock ;
stir until it boils, then add the mushrooms, mace, onion
juice, mushroom catsup, sauce, salt to taste. Mix, and
add the veal. Place over a very moderate fire to simmer
for fifteen minutes ; then take from the fire, add the wine
(if you use it), garnish with boulettes of potatoes, and
serve very hot.
RAGOUT OF VEAL No. 2
Cut any pieces of cold roast veal into nice squares. To
every pint of these squares allow
i pint of stock 2 tablespoonfuls of butter
YZ pint of mushrooms or 2 tablespoonfuls of flour
i ounce of truffles i gill of Madeira, if you use
3 hard-boiled eggs wine
Salt and pepper to taste
Brown the butter, add the flour ; mix ; add the stock and
half the wine, then the meat, and simmer for half an hour ;
then add the mushrooms or truffles chopped into small
pieces, the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs, mashed ; salt and
pepper to taste ; cook ten minutes longer. Take from the
fire, add the remainder of the wine, and serve, garnished
with sweetbread croquettes made into very small cylinders.
This dish is fully worth its trouble.
GALANTINE OF VEAL
i breast of veal i pint of milk
1 knuckle of veal ^ teaspoonful of salt
y?, box of gelatine 2 dashes of black pepper
2 cups of cold boiled ham, 2 dashes of cayenne
chopped fine Yolks of three eggs
8 tablespoonfuls of dried i onion
bread crumbs 2 bay leaves
ME A TS 131
i tablespoonful of chopped 3 cloves
parsley i stalk of celery
i teaspoonful of French i small carrot
mustard i blade of mace
Put the milk on to boil, add to it the bread crumbs ; stir
constantly until it thickens ; then add the yolks, mustard,
chopped parsley, cayenne and ham. Mix all together.
Bone the breast, sprinkle it with salt and pepper. Now
spread the mixture over the breast, roll it up and tie with
twine ; then wrap it in a piece of cheese-cloth and sew
tightly. Put in the bottom of a soup kettle the bones
from the breast, the knuckle of veal, three quarts of cold
water, the onion, bay leaves, cloves, celery, carrot, and
blade of mace. Place it over a moderate fire, and bring
it slowly to a boil. As soon as it boils, skim carefully,
add a tablespoonful of salt, and then put in the breast
of veal ; simmer for three hours, then take out the veal,
remove the cloth, put it on a flat dish, and stand away
to cool. Cover the gelatine with a half-cup of cold
water, and let it soak one hour. Simmer the knuckle one
hour longer after removing the veal, then add to it the
gelatine strained through a sieve, and clarify the same as
Bouillon. Season with salt and pepper, and put away to
cool, but not harden. When cool, put a layer of the
liquid in the bottom of a mould large enough to hold
the veal, stand it on the ice, and, when hard, place the
veal on top of it, and pour the remainder of the liquor in
the mould. (There should be just enough to cover the
veal.) Stand in a very cold place over night. When
ready to serve, wipe the outside of the mould with a warm
towel, place a meat dish over the top of the mould, turn it
upside down, and remove the mould carefully, leaving the
galantine in centre of dish. Garnish with parsley, and
serve with sauce Tartare.
132 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
ITALIAN CHEESE
i pound of veal 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped
i y z pounds of calf 's liver parsley
j pound of ham y box of gelatine
i small onion i heaping teaspoon ful of salt
^ teaspoon ful of pow- ^ teaspoonful of black pepper
dered sage A dash of cayenne
Wash the liver, then cover with boiling water, let it stand
five minutes, then take it from the water and dry on a
towel. Chop the liver, the veal and the ham (all un-
cooked) very fine ; then add the sage, parsley, salt, black
pepper, cayenne and the onion, grated. Mix well. Grease
a plain mould well with butter ; press the meat tightly into
the mould, cover, and boil or steam three hours. When
you remove the lid, you will find the meat has shrunk,
leaving a half-inch of space partly filled with liquid. Care-
fully drain this liquid off, put it in a saucepan over the
fire, add to it the gelatine (which should have been covered
with cold water and soaked a half-hour) and sufficient
water to fill the space and cover the cheese. Stir until the
gelatine is dissolved ; add salt and pepper to taste, pour
back into the mould around the cheese and stand away in
a cold place. When cold, turn out of the mould ; garnish
with slices of lemon and parsley, and it is ready to serve.
If properly made, the meat should be encased in a
jelly.
CALF'S HEAD CHEESE.
i calf's head i teaspoonful of sweet mar-
i teaspoonful of salt joram
i teaspoonful of summer i tablespoonful of chopped
savory parsley
i^ teaspoonful of pepper
Clean the calf's head as directed in Dressed Calf's Head,
simmer it, in hot water enough to cover, for one and a half
ME A TS 133
hours, or until the meat leaves the bones. When done,
take it out carefully, remove the bones, chop the meat and
add the other ingredients. Have ready a small bag made
from cheese-cloth, pack the mixture into it, tie the bag
tightly and hang away to cool. When cold, turn the bag,
wrong side out, off the meat, and it is ready for use. Serve
cold, cut in thin slices.
DRESSED CALF'S HEAD No. i
i calf's head with the skin on i stalk of celery
i quart of water 3 whole cloves
i bay leaf 6 nice tomatoes, baked
i onion Salt
Have the butcher saw the top of the head, and take out the
brains. Now wash the head well in cold water ; cover with
clean cold water, and soak one hour ; then scald the nasal
and throat passages with boiling water ; wash again in cold
water, and see that the throat is perfectly free from any
foreign matter. Put it on to boil with the onion, bay leaf,
celery, cloves, salt and water, simmer gently till tender
about three hours skimming carefully at the first boil.
Remove the fibre from the brains, then put them into a
small saucepan, cover with boiling water, add one tea-
spoonful of salt, and simmer gently for fifteen minutes;
take them out, cut into small pieces with a silver knife,
and stand aside until wanted. When the head is done,
take it from the water, remove the tongue, skin and cut
into slices. Cut the meat from the head carefully. Put
it with tongue and brains in the centre of a heated meat-
plate, and keep warm while preparing the sauce. Put one
tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan to brown, add to it
two even tablespoonfuls of flour ; mix until smooth ; then
add one pint of the liquor in which the head was boiled,
stir constantly until it boils, then add a tablespoonful of
134 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
mushroom catsup, a tablespoon ful of Worcestershire sauce,
a half-teaspoonful of salt, two dashes of cayenne, and five
mushrooms chopped fine. Simmer the whole one minute.
Place the baked tomatoes around the calf's head, pour the
sauce over the whole, and serve.
The tomatoes may also be cut into slices and fried.
If you use wine, add one tablespoonful of sherry to the
sauce at serving time.
DRESSED CALF'S HEAD No. 2
Saw the head into halves, lengthwise through the skull.
Take out the brains, throw them into cold water for one
hour. Take out the eyes and teeth. Wash and cleanse the
same as directed in preceding recipe. Put it in a kettle,
nearly cover with boiling water ; place over a moderate
fire, skim and simmer gently for one hour, then add one
onion, one bay leaf, a sprig of parsley, four cloves and a
blade of mace ; simmer for a half-hour longer. While this
is cooking, clean the brains, remove all the membrane, and
parboil them for fifteen minutes, then put them away to
cool. When 'cold, cut into thick slices, dip first in egg and
then in bread crumbs, and stand one side until wanted.
When the calf's head is done, take it out carefully, skin the
tongue, brush the head over with beaten egg, then sprinkle
with crumbs and chopped parsley. Brown in a quick oven.
Plunge the brains into boiling fat just long enough to
brown. Serve one-half of the head at a time, garnished with
parsley, slices of lemon and the brains around the dish.
Sheep's head may be served in the same way, and is
very nice.
CALF'S BRAINS
i tiny onion i bay leaf
i teaspoon ful of salt i clove
MEATS 135
Use the brains left from the mock turtle. As soon as the
head conies home, throw the brains into a bowl of ice-cold
water, and let them stand one hour. Then remove the fine
skin and blood-vessels that are all around them. Now put
them in a small saucepan, cover with cold water, add the
onion, bay leaf, salt, and clove, and simmer gently five
minutes. Take from fire, drain, and put on ice to cool.
When cold, cut in four nice pieces, dip first in egg and then
in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Garnish with pars-
ley and serve, with French peas around them.
BRAISED LIVER
calf's liver carrot
onion bay leaf
stalk of celery turnip
sprigs of parsley ^ pound of larding-pork
pint of stock or water i tablespoonful of butter
tablespoon ful of mush- tablespoonful of Worces-
room catsup tershire sauce
i tablespoonful of flour
Wash the liver, and lard it the same as fillet of beef. Wash
and cut the vegetables into slices, and put them in the bot-
tom of a braising-pan if you have one, if not, in a deep
baking-pan ; lay the liver on the bed of vegetables, add the
stock or water, put a lid over the pan, and bake in a mod-
erate oven for two hours. When done, dish the liver.
Put the butter in a frying-pan, stir it over the fire until a
nice brown, add the flour; mix and strain the liquor from
the other pan into this, which should be about a half-pint.
Stir continually until it boils, then add the Worcestershire
sauce, and mushroom catsup. Pour over and around the
liver, and serve.
Beef's liver may be braised, but is never so nice as
calf's liver.
136 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
STEWED LIVER
i pound of calf's liver i pint of water
i tablespoon ful of flour Salt and pepper to taste
YL a small onion
Cut the liver into slices, and again into pieces about two
inches square. Put two tablespoonfuls of dripping in a
frying-pan, add to it the flour, and stir until brown. Now
add the water, stir constantly until it boils, pour it into a
stewing-pan with the liver and onion, cover and simmer
gently one hour ; add the salt and pepper, and serve.
LIVER AND BACON
i pound of calf's liver ^ pound of bacon
YZ teaspoonful of salt i tablespoonful of flour
A dash of black pepper
Cut the liver into thin slices and scald it ; wipe dry. Cut
the bacon into as many thin slices as you have slices of
liver. Put the bacon in a frying-pan and fry until brown,
then take it out, put on a heated dish and keep it warm.
Dust the liver with flour, salt and pepper, and fry it in the
bacon-fat. When a nice brown, arrange it on the heated
dish with a slice of bacon on each slice of liver. Add the
flour to the fat remaining in the pan ; mix, add a half-pint
of boiling water, season with salt and pepper, pour it around
the liver, and serve.
LIVER AND ONIONS
Fry the liver and bacon as in preceding recipe. Have ready
onions, prepared the same as in beefsteak and onions, add
them to the fat remaining in the pan, cook two minutes,
and heap on top the liver and bacon.
BROILED LIVER
Cut the liver into slices and scald it. Then wipe it dry,
season with salt and pepper, and broil over a clear fire, first
ME A TS 137
on one side and then on the other ; it will take about five
minutes. When done, spread lightly with butter, and
serve on a heated dish.
LIVER WITH BROWN SAUCE
i pound of calf's liver 2 slices of bacon
i tablespoonful of flour y 2 pint boiling stock or water
i tablespoonful of i tablespoonful of mush-
Worcestershire sauce room catsup
Salt to taste
Cut the liver in slices, cover it with boiling water, and let
it stand five minutes to draw out the blood. Now take it
out and wipe it dry. Dredge with flour, salt and pepper.
Try out the bacon in a frying-pan. Then put the liver
into this hot bacon-fat, fry brown on one side, turn, and
brown the other. Place it on a hot dish with the bacon,
cut in small pieces. Now add the flour to the fat in the pan,
and stir until a nice rich brown ; add the boiling stock
or water ; stir again until it boils, now add the Worcester-
shire sauce, mushroom catsup, and salt to taste. Pour it
over the liver, and serve.
LIVER ROLLS
i pound of calf's liver ]/^ pound of bacon
i small onion i bay leaf
i sprig of parsley i tablespoonful of Worcester-
i tablespoonful of mush- shire sauce
room catsup i tablespoonful of flour
YZ teaspoon fid of salt
Have the liver cut into thin slices. Cover with boiling
water and let stand five minutes ; take it out of the water
and wipe dry. Cut the bacon into thin slices, and again
into pieces about two inches long and one inch wide. Put
one piece of the bacon on a slice of the liver, then roll it
up and tie tightly with twine, and so continue, making one
roll of each piece of liver. Dredge these thickly with flour.
138 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Put the remainder of the bacon in a frying-pan, and try
out all the fat. Brown the rolls in this fat, and then put
them in a stewing-pan. Add the flour to the fat remain-
ing in the frying-pan, mix, and add one pint of water or
stock ; stir constantly until it boils, and pour it over the
rolls; add the Worcestershire sauce, the mushroom catsup,
a half-teaspoonful of salt, onion, bay leaf and parsley.
Cover, and let simmer gently one hour. When done, dish
the rolls, remove the strings. Strain the sauce over and
around them.
SWEETBREADS
Calf's sweetbreads only should be used for food, and, as
they spoil very quickly, they should be thrown in cold
water the moment they come from the market ; after soak-
ing one hour, trim them free from fat, lard or not, as you
wish, put them into boiling water ; add a teaspoonful of
salt, stand them over a very moderate fire, and parboil
fifteen minutes ; then throw them into cold water for five
minutes, remove carefully any skin or rough parts, and
then put them in the coldest place you have until you are
ready to cook them. In this way they will keep thirty or
forty hours. Always parboil the sweetbreads in a porcelain
.or granite saucepan, and use a silver knife in cutting, as
they contain a peculiar phosphoric acid that acts upon iron
or tin, entirely destroying their flavor.
BAKED SWEETBREADS AND PEAS No. i
2 pairs of sweetbreads Lard ing -pork
i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour
^ pint of milk i can of French peas
Salt and pepper to taste
Trim the fat from the sweetbreads and parboil fifteen min-
utes. Now lard them with five lardoons each, put them
in a small baking-pan, dredge them with salt, pepper, and
MEATS 139
flour, cover the bottom of the pan with stock or water, and
bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour.
Baste every ten minutes. When they are nearly done, put
the butter in a frying-pan, add to it the flour (do not
brown), and mix until smooth ; add the milk, stir until it
boils, then add the French peas drained free from all liquor.
Stir again until they boil. Dish the sweetbreads in the
centre of the dish with the peas around them.
BAKED SWEETBREADS AND PEAS No. 2
Trim, lard and bake the sweetbreads as in the preceding
recipe. Drain the liquor from a can of French peas, turn
them into a small saucepan, add a piece of butter the size
of a walnut, a half-teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper; heap
in the centre of a heated dish, put the sweetbreads around,
and serve very hot.
SWEETBREADS FRIED
Wash, trim, and parboil the sweetbreads fifteen minutes.
Then cut them in nice pieces, dip them first into egg, then in
bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Serve with cream sauce.
SWEETBREADS a la CREME
i pair of sweetbreads 5 mushrooms
i tablespoon ful of butter i tablespoonful of flour
YZ pint of cream
Parboil the sweetbreads as directed ; pick them to pieces,
rejecting all the fine membranes, then chop rather fine.
Chop the mushrooms very fine. Put the butter on to melt,
be careful not to brown ; when melted, add the flour, mix
until smooth; add the milk, stir constantly until it boils;
add the mushrooms and sweetbreads, and stir over the
steam of the teakettle for about five minutes, add a half-
teaspoonful of salt and a dash of white pepper. Serve in
silver shells or little paper cases.
140 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
SWEETBREADS a la BECHAMEL
i pair of sweetbreads i tablespoon ful of butter
i tablespoon ful of flour i gill of white stock
i gill of cream 6 mushrooms, chopped fine
YZ teaspoonful of salt 2 dashes of white pepper
Yolks of two eggs
Wash and parboil the sweetbreads as directed. Remove
the fibrous skin and fat and pick into small pieces. Put
the butter in saucepan to melt, do not brown ; add the
flour, mix until smooth, then add the stock and cream ;
stir continually until it boils, then add the mushrooms and
sweetbreads ; stir the whole over the steam of the teakettle
and let stand there until wanted. When ready to serve
them, take from the fire, add the yolks, well beaten, salt
and pepper, and, if you use it, one tablespoonful of sherry,
a,nd serve in a small heated dish or individual paper cases.
A calf's brain may be parboiled, mashed, and added to
the sauce. Many think this a great improvement.
SWEETBREADS BROILED
Wash and parboil the sweetbreads, cut them in half, length-
wise, and stand them away to cool ; when ready to broil,
season with salt and pepper, baste with melted butter.
Broil over a clear fire for five minutes. Serve hot with a
little melted butter poured over them.
SWEETBREAD CUTLETS
i pair of sweetbreads i gill of cream
Yolks of two eggs 5 drops of onion juice
% teaspoonful of nutmeg ^ teaspoonful of white pepper
i tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour
i tablespoonful of chopped parsley.
Trim and parboil the sweetbreads, chop them fine with a
silver knife. Put the milk on to boil. Rub the butter and
ME A TS 141
flour together and stir into the milk when boiling; stir and
cook until very thick. Take from the fire, add the yolks
of the eggs, sweetbreads, and seasoning, salt to taste, and,
if you like, two tablespoon fuls of chopped mushrooms ; mix
well, and turn out to cool. They should stand at least
four hours in a cold place to form nicely. When cold,
form into cutlets, dip first in egg and then in bread
crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Put a quilling of white
paper in the small end of each cutlet, and serve with sauce
Bechamel or cream sauce.
SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES
Make exactly the same as the preceding recipe, leaving
out the yolks of the eggs, and forming into croquettes
instead of cutlets. Serve with peas.
SWEETBREADS au JUS
2 pairs of sweetbreads i tablespoon ful of butter
i bay leaf i slice of onion
10 lardoons (strips of i clove
larding-pork) i sprig of parsley
i small head of cauliflower
Trim and lard the sweetbreads, then parboil them. Put
the butter in a frying-pan, add the onion, bay leaf, clove,
parsley, and sweetbreads, the larded side up ; cover the pan
and stand it in a hot oven, basting with the butter, and
baking for thirty minutes. In the mean time boil the
cauliflower as directed in recipe for boiled cauliflower,
break it apart in the little branches, and put it around a
heated dish. Take the sweetbreads from the oven, add
four tablespoonfuls of stock, boil up once. Dish the sweet-
breads in the centre of the cauliflower, turn the gravy over
them through a strainer, and serve.
142 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
PORK
Pork is divided into leg, loin, chine, shoulder, spare-rib,
middlings, head and feet. The best parts for roasting are
the loin and leg.
Pork in every form is unwholesome and indigestible,
and should never be eaten by persons with weak digestion
or by children, and should not be used by any one except
in very cold weather. It should always be thoroughly
cooked.
To select : The lean must be fine-grained, and of a
pale red color; the fat white, and the skin smooth and
clear. If the flesh is soft, the fat a yellowish-white, and
full of small kernels, reject it, as this is an indication of
disease.
SUCKING PIG (TO ROAST)
TO PREPARE
The pig should be four weeks old, and should be roasted
the day after it is killed. In cities, pigs are usually sent
from the butcher's prepared for the oven ; but if it should
be your lot to receive one in its crude state, we will give
these few directions to follow. Wash the pig well in cold
water, and let it remain in the water ten minutes. Have
ready a large pan of boiling water, plunge it in, hold it
by the nose and shake it vigorously about, until you
can pull the hairs out easily. Take it out, rub it with a
very coarse crash towel, rubbing from the tail to the head ;
then make a small opening in the belly, take out the
entrails, and wash it thoroughly in cold water. Wipe it
dry. Make a filling as follows :
i cup of stale bread crumbs
i heaping tablespoonful of chopped suet
i tablespoonful of chopped parsley
ME A TS 143
i teaspoon ful of powdered sage
i teaspoonful of salt
i^ teaspoonful of black pepper
i tablespoonful of onion juice
Mix all the ingredients well together.
Remove the hoofs at the first joint, leaving the skin
long enough to pull over the bone. If you are not ready
to bake at once give it a cold pack, /. e., roll it in a wet
towel and put it one side until wanted. When ready, put
the stuffing in, sew the opening together, truss the fore legs
forward, and the hind feet also forward, under and close
to the body. Now wipe the pig carefully with a clean,
soft, dry cloth, and place a stone or cob in the mouth to
keep it open. Rub it with melted butter ; dredge very
lightly with flour, salt and pepper. Roast before a moderate
fire, as it must be thoroughly done, or, if baked, the oven
must be moderately hot. Baste it with a little salted hot
water at first, and then with melted butter until there is
sufficient dripping in the pan. Roast from two hours to
two and a half. When the pig is about half done, brush it
all over lightly with melted butter or pure olive oil. When
done, place it on a dish with parsley all around ; remove
the stone or cob from the mouth, and put in its place a
small red apple. Serve as hot as possible with apple sauce.
THE GRAVY
Brown the pan in which the pig was roasted, add to it
two tablespoon fuls of flour, and brown again ; add one
pint of boiling water, let it boil up once, add salt and
pepper to taste, take from the fire, add four tablespoonfuls
of sherry, and serve in a boat.
TO CARVE
Cut off its head, separate it down the back in halves,
remove the hams and shoulders, and separate the ribs.
Sucking pig may also be stuffed with potato stuffing.
144 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
ROAST LEG OF PORK
A leg to be roasted should not weigh over about six or
seven pounds. Score the skin with a sharp knife, in par-
allel lines about a half-inch apart. Place it in a baking-
pan, add a teaspoonful of salt and a half-cup of boiling
water, and place it in a very hot oven, basting every five
minutes for twenty minutes ; now take the drafts off your
fire, and allow the leg to roast moderately, basting every
ten minutes with its own gravy. Roast twenty-five minutes
to every pound. Pork should never be served under- done.
When done, dish and garnish with parsley. Serve apple
sauce and horseradish with it.
FOR THE GRAVY
Allow two tablespoon fuls of fat to remain in the pan (pour
the remainder in your dripping-pot), add two tablespoonfuls
of flour and brown well ; add one pint of boiling water,
stir constantly until it boils ; add salt and pepper to taste,
a half-teaspoon ful of powdered sage, and a tablespoonful
of tomato catsup ; strain, and serve in a boat.
ROAST LOIN OF PORK
The loin and shoulder may be roasted the same as a leg,
roasting the loin twenty and the shoulder twenty-five min-
utes to every pound.
ROAST SPARE-RIB
Put the spare-rib in a baking-pan ; dredge it lightly with
pepper ; add a half-teaspoon ful of salt to a half-cup of
boiling water, and pour in the bottom of the pan. Place
in a quick oven for ten minutes ; baste with butter and
cover with a piece of buttered letter paper. Roast twenty
minutes to every pound, basting every ten minutes. Fifteen
minutes before it is done, brush it well with melted butter,
ME A TS 145
and dust it with a half-teaspoonful of powdered sage and a
little black pepper. When done, serve and make a gravy
the same as for roast leg of pork.
Spare-rib may be stuffed with a stuffing made of bread
or mashed potatoes, the ribs cracked crosswise the entire
length in two places, the stuffing placed in the centre, the
two ends folded over, and tied. Roast as above. Serve
with tomato sauce.
PORK CHOPS
Put a tablespoonful of dripping in a frying-pan to heat.
Dust the chops with salt, pepper and flour ; fry in the hot
dripping until a nice brown, and thoroughly done. It will
take about twenty-five minutes. Dish. Pour nearly all
the fat from the frying-pan into your dripping-pot, and to
that remaining which should be about a tablespoonful
add one tablespoonful of flour, and brown. Then add a
half-pint of boiling water, let it boil up once, add salt and
pepper to taste, and pour over the chops.
Steaks and cutlets may be fried in the same manner.
SOUSED PIG'S FEET
Clean the feet and scrape them well. Soak them in cold
water two or three hours, then wash and scrub well. Split
the feet and crack in two or three places. Put them into
a stewpan and just cover them with. cold water ; place over
a moderate fire and simmer until tender. . Boil together for
one minute a half-pint of good cider vinegar, three blades
of mace, one dozen whole cloves, and two bay leaves.
Season the feet with salt and pepper, pour into an earthen
basin, and add the spiced vinegar while hot; then stand in
a cold place. It will be ready for use the next day.
146 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
PORK TENDERLOINS
These are the tenderloins of the pork, torn out, and corre-
spond with the fillet of beef. Two tenderloins will weigh
about a pound and a quarter. Being solid meat, without a
particle of waste, they are more economical, even at a higher
price, than chops or steaks. They are best fried the same as
pork chops. Before frying, split them lengthwise, making
four pieces of the two tenderloins.
PORK AND BEANS
To every quart of the small white soup beans allow one
pound of pickled pork. Soak the beans over night in cold
water. In the morning wash them well in a colander.
Put them on to boil in cold water ; at the first boil, drain
this water off and cover them with fresh boiling water.
Score the rind of the pork and put it in with the beans ;
simmer gently until you can blow off the skin of the beans.
To do this, take three or four beans in your hand, blow
hard on them, and if the skin cracks they are done. When
done, every bean should be perfectly whole. Take out the
pork and drain. Put the beans into a bean-pot (an earthen
pot or pipkin with a cover), almost bury the pork in the centre
of the beans. Add one teaspoonful of salt to one pint of the
water in which the beans were boiled, pour this into the pot,
sprinkle with pepper. Pour over the top of the beans one
large spoonful of molasses, put on the lid, then bake in a
very moderate oven for six or eight hours. If wanted for
Sunday morning breakfast, put them in the oven on Satur-
day night, and let them bake all night. Serve with Boston
brown bread. They may be baked in an ordinary iron
baking-pan, but in that case they should be covered with
another pan or carefully watched, and baked only two
hours. Bring them to the table in the pan in which they
were baked.
ME A TS 147
TO BOIL A HAM
Wash the ham well in cold water. To do this thoroughly,
you should use a small scrubbing-brush. Put it into a large
boiler nearly filled with cold water, add a blade of mace,
six cloves, and a bay leaf. Place it over a slow fire, that it
may heat gradually. It should not come to boil for at least
two hours. Then skim carefully, and simmer gently fifteen
minutes to every pound, from the time it begins to simmer.
When done, allow it to cool in the liquor in which it was
boiled. Then remove the rind carefully without cutting
the fat. Brush it over with beaten egg, and sprinkle with
dried bread crumbs ; place in a quick oven for about fifteen
minutes to brown. Serve it cold, garnished with parsley.
Ornament the shank bone with a paper frill.
OR/ TO SERVE HOT
Remove the skin as soon as it is done, and, while yet hot,
brush it over with beaten egg, sprinkle with dried bread
crumbs, and put in the oven to brown and crisp. When
brown, dish ; trim the shank bone with a frill of paper,
garnish the edge of the dish with parsley and vegetable
flowers, and serve with it asparagus, peas, or cauliflower.
HAM BOILED IN CIDER
Wash the ham as directed, cover it with cold water, and
soak for twenty-four hours, then wipe dry. Put it in a
porcelain-lined kettle, more than cover it with cider, and
simmer gently fifteen minutes to every pound. When done,
allow it to cool in the liquor in which it was boiled. When
cold, remove the skin carefully, and with a dry cloth sop
the fat to make it perfectly dry. Cut carrots and beets,
that have been boiled tender, into fancy shapes, with vege-
table cutters or a French knife, place them tastefully over
the ham. Garnish with squares of aspic jelly, parsley, and
olives. This is delicious.
148 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
TO BAKE A HAM
Wash a medium-sized ham as directed; soak it for twenty-
four hours in cold water, changing the water three or four
times. Now trim away the rusty parts from underneath, and
wipe it dry. Make a thick paste with flour and water only ;
cover the flesh side of the ham with this paste, place it in a
baking-pan, the skin side down, and bake in a moderate
oven twenty-five minutes for every pound, basting with
sherry wine every ten minutes, until you have used a half-
pint ; then baste with the dripping in the pan. When done,
take off the crust carefully, and peel off the skin. Trim
the shank bone with a frill of paper. With a dredging-box
sprinkle the fat of the ham over with raspings of rolls or
bread, and serve with champagne sauce. Garnish with
pickled beets cut into fancy shapes, olives, and parsley.
This is just as good as it sounds ; a little troublesome,
but one is well paid.
BROILED HAM
Have your ham cut into slices about a half-inch thick, trim
off the rind and rusty edge. Place on a broiler, and broil
over or before a clear fire for eight minutes, turning two or
three times. When done, spread very lightly with butter,
dust with pepper, and serve at once on a heated dish.
FRIED HAM
Cut and trim the ham as for broiling. Heat a frying-pan,
then put in the ham (use no fat), and fry over a quick fire
ten minutes, or until the fat of the ham is a nice brown.
Dish. Add one tablespoonful of flour to the fat remaining
in the pan, and mix until smooth ; add a half-pint of milk,
stir constantly until it boils ; add a dash of pepper ; pour
it over the ham, and serve.
Saratoga potatoes are a nice accompaniment to this.
ME A TS 149
BARBECUED HAM
This is best done in a chafing-dish.
Take one slice of cold boiled or baked ham, put it in
your chafing-dish, season with pepper and a half-teaspoon-
ful of French mustard ; pour over it one teaspoonful of
vinegar ; heat quickly on one side, then turn and heat the
other. Dust very lightly with powdered sugar, add four
tablespoonfuls of sherry; boil up once, and serve on a
heated dish.
If you have no chafing-dish, this can be carefully done
over the fire.
HAM AND EGGS
Fry the ham as directed in the recipe for Fried Ham ; when
done, place on a heated dish ; allow six eggs to every slice
of ham, have them ready, and drop one by one, into the
the hot fat. Stand over a moderate part of the fire until
yolks are set. Cut the ham into six nice pieces, trim the
rough edges from the eggs, lift them carefully with an egg-
slice, and lay one upon each piece of ham. Dust lightly
with salt and pepper, and serve very hot.
HAM CROQUETTES
1 cup of finely-chopped cooked ham '
2 cups of mashed potatoes
Yolks of three eggs
i tablespoon ful of butter
i dash of cayenne
Mix with the hot mashed potatoes, the butter, yolks of two
eggs, and the cayenne ; beat until smooth ; turn out to
cool. Put the ham in a small frying-pan with the remain-
ing yolk, and stir over the fire for about one minute ; turn
it out to cool. When cool, take a large tablespoonful of
the potato and form it into a hollow in the palm of your
hand ; put into this hollow a large teaspoonful of the ham,
150 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
fold the potato over it, and form it into a ball, making a
potato ball with a ham centre. Dip these in beaten egg
and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat.
HAM BALLS
y?, cup of cold cooked ham
1 gill of milk
2 tablespoonfuls of dried bread crumbs
i tablespoonful of chopped parsley
Yolks of two eggs
i dash of cayenne
i^ teaspoonful of salt
% teaspoonful of nutmeg
Chop the ham very fine. Put the milk on to boil, add to
it the crumbs, stir until it thickens ; add the yolks of the
eggs, salt, cayenne, nutmeg, and ham; stir over the fire
until thoroughly hot ; then add the parsley. Mix, and
turn out to cool. When cold, form into balls about the
size of a walnut, dip in egg and then in bread crumbs, and
fry in boiling fat.
These are used as a garnish to made dishes.
This mixture, when turned out to cool, is a ham
forcemeat.
HAM SANDWICHES
Cut the bread very thin, butter it lightly, put on it a good
layer of finely-chopped cold boiled ham ; lay another piece
of buttered bread on top, and press together gently. If
the crust is at all hard, cut it off before putting in the ham.
HAM AND EGGS SANDWICHES
Mix the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs with one tablespoon-
ful of French mustard to a smooth paste, then add one cup
of finely-chopped cold boiled ham. Spread a good layer
of this on a slice of buttered bread, cover with another
slice, and press firmly together.
ME A TS 151
Or, spread a layer on one slice cut very thin, roll it
up, and serve in a pile on a plate.
Tongue sandwiches may be made by either of the
preceding recipes, using cold boiled tongue instead of ham.
BOILED BACON
Bacon may be boiled the same as ham.
FRIED BACON
Cut it into very thin slices, put it in a frying-pan, and heat
gradually for about two minutes; then fry until brown.
Serve around a dish of fried potatoes.
TO BOIL PICKLED PORK
This is generally used boiled with sauer-kraut or cabbage,
to give it flavor, a piece weighing two pounds being suffi-
cient for one quart of sauer-kraut, or one head of cabbage.
Boil two hours and a half.
TO CURE HAMS AND SHOULDERS
This should be done as soon as possible after the meat is cold.
100 pounds of meat 2 ounces of powdered saltpetre
4 pounds of fine salt 4 ounces of brown sugar
Place the hams or shoulders on a board or table in the
cellar, skin side down. Mix the salt, sugar and saltpetre
well together ; rub the hams well all over with this mixture,
and put a little in the hock end around the bone. Rub
until they will take no more. If there should be any left,
rub them again in about one week. Allow them to remain
on the board for sixteen days. Then hang them up to
smoke, with the hock end upwards, in a cool, dark, smoke-
house. Keep up a good smoke from hickory chips, smoth-
ered with sawdust, during the day, for two or three days,
when they will be fit for use. One or two small hams may
be smoked under a barrel.
152 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
If you should want to keep the hams over until warm
weather, our experience with the following method was
very satisfactory.
Examine the hams carefully, to see that the insects
have not already deposited their eggs on the meat. Dust
a little cayenne pepper around the bone, then wrap them
closely in brown paper, then with coarse muslin to fit the
ham exactly ; stitch tightly. Now give them a coat of
whitewash, and hang them away in a cool, dark, dry place.
Beef's tongues may be cured in the same manner.
This recipe has been in constant use in our own family
for years, and we pronounce it perfect.
TO PICKLE PORK
To fifty pounds of pork allow two pounds and a half of
brown sugar, two ounces of saltpetre, and sufficient salt to
make a brine with about nine gallons of water ; this de-
pends upon the size of the vessel you pack it in. Mix the
sugar and saltpetre with the water, and then gradually add
the salt which should be Liverpool until the brine will
float an egg. Pack the pork down in a half-barrel or tub,
and pour the brine over it ; skim off carefully all scum that
rises. Be sure that the pickle entirely covers the meat ; if
it does not, make more brine from salt and water, and add
to it. Place a board on top of the pork, on which put a
heavy stone to keep it down. Examine carefully from day
to day for at least one week, skimming off whatever may
float on the top. In two weeks it will be ready for use, and
will keep one year. It may be necessary to make an en-
tirely new pickle in about two months, throwing away the
old one.
Pork should be pickled twenty-four hours after killing.
ME A TS 153
SAUSAGE
15 pounds of lean meat
4 tablespoon fuls of powdered sage
5 pounds of fat meat
5 ounces of salt
2 ounces of pepper
2 ounces of allspice
Chop the meat very fine; this is best done with an "En-
terprise Meat Chopper;" it takes but a moment, and the
meat is not bruised or mashed as in a grinding machine.
Now mix all the ingredients well together. Have ready
the "casings," stuff with the meat, tie them into lengths,
and put them away in a cool, dry place. If you wish to
keep them for a time, twist them around in the bottom of
a stone jar or a pan, cover with hot melted lard, and stand
away to cool. These will keep one or two months.
TO CLEAN THE CASINGS OR INTESTINES OF THE HOG
Empty them, turn them inside out and wash them well.
Soak them in salt water for two days. Now wash them
again, cut into convenient lengths, and scrape them on a
board with a blunt knife, first on one side, then on the
other; when you have them well and carefully scraped, Wash
again and tie up one end of each length, put a quill in the
other end and blow them up ; if they are whole and clear
they are clean, but if any thick spots are seen they must
be scraped again. Now throw them into clean, cold, salt
water until wanted.
There is a small machine called a "sausage stuffcr,"
that is most convenient if you have large quantities of sau-
sage to stuff. If you do not use the skin, simply pack the
meat into small stone or earthen pots, cover with melted
lard ; when cold, protect the tops with heavy brown paper
tied down tightly, and stand away in a cool place.
154 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
TO COOK IN THE SKINS
Take the desired quantity, prick the skins here and there
with a sharp fork (this prevents their bursting); place them
in a frying-pan over a moderate fire, and fry in their own
fat until a nice brown. When done, dish, add one table-
spoonful of flour to the fat in the pan, mix, add one cup
of milk, stir until it boils, pour over the sausage, and serve
with buckwheat cakes.
OUT OF THE SKINS
Make into small cakes, dip into beaten egg and then into
bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat.
Or, make into small cakes, fry slowly in their own fat.
Serve with cream gravy and buckwheat cakes as above.
OXFORD SAUSAGE (Warne)
i pound of lean veal i pound of young pork
i pound of beef's suet y 2 pound of bread crumbs
Grated peel of half a lemon i nutmeg, grated
6 sage leaves, powdered i sprig of thyme
i sprig of savory i sprig of marjoram
Free the pork from skin and gristle, and chop it, the veal,
and suet, all separately and as fine as possible ; then mix
together, add the grated bread crumbs, lemon peel, nutmeg,
a teaspoonful of pepper, and two of salt, and the sage,
thyme, savory and marjoram, all chopped as fine as you can ;
mix all thoroughly together, and press it down into a pre-
pared skin. When you use them, fry them a fine brown in
fresh butter. Serve as hot as possible.
BOLOGNA SAUSAGE
6 pounds of lean beef 3 pounds of lean pork
i pound of salt pork i pound of beef's suet
3 ounces of salt i ounce of white pepper
i teaspoonful of cayenne i teaspoonful of ground mace
i large onion, finely chopped
ME A TS 155
Chop the meat and suet separately very fine, then mix ; add
all the seasoning, and mix thoroughly. Fill into casings
(in cities you can buy these already cleaned from your
butcher), tie them into lengths, or you may use strong linen
bags. Make a brine, from Liverpool salt and water, that
will bear an egg ; put the sausage into it, and let stand two
weeks, turning, skimming, and watching carefully every
day. At the end of the first week throw away the old, and
make a new brine, then smoke for one week. If you have
no smoke-house, this can be done under a barrel by simply
building a smothered chip fire, hanging the sausages close
to the head of the barrel, and standing the open end over
the fire. When smoked, rub them over with olive oil, and
hang them away in a cool, dry, dark place. If you wish
to keep them for any time, sprinkle the outside with pepper.
These may be either fried or boiled, served cold and cut in
thin slices.
SUMMER SAUSAGE
4 pounds of lean beef 2 pounds of lean veal
4 pounds of lean pork i pound of fat salt pork
i pound of beef's suet y? ounce of powdered sage
i grated nutmeg i chopped onion
YZ teaspoonful of cayenne i teaspoonful of white pepper
YZ teaspoonful of cloves, ^ teaspoonful of allspice,
ground ground
i teaspoonful of sweet i teaspoonful of thyme
marjoram 4 tablespoon fuls of salt
Chop the meat and suet separately, and then mix together;
add all the other ingredients, and mix well. Pack into
small strong muslin bags, making a sausage about the size
of the large bolognas, and tie tightly. Place them in a
kettle of boiling water and simmer gently for one and a
half hours. Take them out and place them in the sun, on
a clean towel, to dry. Then hang them in a cool place
156 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
until next day. Dip them in melted lard, covering them
all over, dust lightly with black pepper, and hang in a cold,
dark, dry place until wanted. These will keep all summer.
When wanted for use, draw the bag off wrong side out, and
cut the sausage in thin slices.
BREAKFAST SAUSAGE
To those who are fond of a good breakfast sausage, and do
not care to use that prepared by the butchers, I give the
following recipe which is simple and as easily made as the
ordinary Hamburg steaks:
2 pounds of lean pork
i teaspoonful of powdered sage leaves
i teaspoonful of salt
i saltspoon of black peppei
Chop the meat very fine (an " Enterprise No. 10 chopper "
does this quickly and neatly), add to it the salt, pepper,
and sage ; mix thoroughly, and form into small cakes. Put
an even tablespoonful of dripping in a frying-pan, and
when hot cover the bottom of the pan with the sausage
cakes; fry until nicely browned on one side, then turn and
brown the other. Serve plain or with cream sauce.
ONION JUICE FOR MEAT DISHES
Take the outside skin from a large onion, and then trim
off the bottom. Press the onion firmly against a large
grater and quickly draw it up and down allowing the juice
to drop from one corner of the grater.
WHAT TO SAVE AND
HOW TO USE IT
" Waste no/, want not "
Save all broken pieces and crusts of bread not fit for toast ;
put them in a pan and dry (not brown) in a cool oven ;
better leave the door open or you may forget them. When
thoroughly dry, roll them on an old bread board, sift them
through a rather coarse sieve ; the crumbs that easily pass
through put in a box or jar, the ones remaining in the sieve
turn out and roll over again and sift as before. These will
be found very useful and much better* than cracker crumbs
for dipping croquettes, oysters, etc.
Pieces of stale bread may also be saved for bread
cakes, queen pudding, or bread muffins.
Muffins left from breakfast may be split into halves
and toasted for luncheon.
Broken pieces of buns and stale cake make delightful
cabinet pudding, and are just the things for "general satis-
faction." Here also you may use the small saucer of pre-
serves left from tea.
There is nothing better for panada than stale rusks
toasted.
(157)
158 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
All cold mashed potatoes should be saved for cro-
quettes or potato puff. One cupful will make six croquettes.
Cold boiled potatoes make excellent French fried or
Lyonnaise potatoes.
All small pieces of plain or puff paste, trimmed from
your pies or patties, may be used for cheese fingers or with
the small piece of steak left from breakfast made into
rissoles, and you will have an inexpensive but nice entree
for luncheon. The unbaked portion of puff paste taken
from the centre of patties, dried and rolled, furnish a richer
and better covering for scallops, devils, etc., than the dried
bread crumbs.
If you are going to have celery for dinner, the green
part of the stalks is not pretty in the glass nor crisp to eat,
but is just the thing for stews, or flavoring for soups. The
roots, when boiled, make an excellent salad.
The turnip left from yesterday will be just eno\%h for
to-day's soup, and will save the time of preparing and
cooking another.
Save every bone whether beef, mutton,- veal, ham,
poultry or game as well as all juices left, for the stock-
pot. Into this goes the long end of the rib roast, which
would only become tasteless and dry if put in the oven ;
also the fat ends of your French mutton chops. This pot
is a store-house of wealth, not only for ordinary soup, or
puree, but to use instead of water for sauces and gravies.
The fat which you skim from the surface of this stock,
every piece of suet from chops and steaks; in fact, all
kinds of fat, should be saved, tried out, clarified, and then
strained into your dripping-pot. If you do this religiously,
even in a large family, you will have to buy very little or
no lard for general frying. Doughnuts and fritters are
much better fried in dripping than in lard, as they do not
absorb so much of it.
WHAT TO SAVE 159
The coarse, tough and unprepossessing tops of the
sirloin steaks, and the tough ends of the rumps, which
cannot possibly be eaten when broiled, make most excel-
lent, tender Hamburg steaks. If you are fond of
these, and have much chopping to do, an "Enterprise"
chopper soon pays for itself, as it saves time and chops
uncooked meats.
Pressed Meat No. i (see Index) is made from the soup
meat ; remember, it is rather tasteless unless nicely sea-
soned.
Cecils are appetizing for breakfast or luncheon, and,
unless wantonly suggested by you, it will never enter into
the masculine intellect to suspect them of being the rem-
nants of yesterday's roast.
Cold mutton is better made over into pilaff, hash on
toast with tomato sauce, and scallop, than when first served.
Beef a la mode makes the very best of ragouts, and
the pieces of game left from dinner are just the thing for a
salmi, and there also is a chance to use some of the olives
that were opened yesterday and will mould in a day or two
if not used.
Cold roast and boiled chicken or turkey may be made
into croquettes, a la Bechamel, or a 1'Italienne; and, if
nicely served, would never suggest warmed-over meats.
A cup of cold, boiled rice added to griddle-cakes,
muffins or waffles, makes them lighter and more easily
digested.
The water in which fresh tong'ue, mutton or chicken
is boiled, may be used for soup or added to the stock-pot.
After you have used all the ham that will cut nicely
from the bone, and after chipping the remaining tender
meat for frizzled ham, boil the bone with cabbage. Being
free from fat, it flavors the cabbage nicely without making
it greasy.
160 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Whites of eggs, saved one or two at a time and kept
in a cold place, may be used for angels' food, corn-starch
cake, or apple snow ; the yolks for salad dressing, gravies
or soups.
Cold boiled, baked or broiled fish may be used for cro-
quettes a la creme or salad.
In fact, waste nothing, as many things may be re-
dressed in a different way, and thus improve the appearance
of your table without increasing the expense.
**i
ADDITIONAL RECIPES
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164 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
POULTRY AND GAME
POULTRY
In some markets poultry is bought ready dressed from the
poulterer ; in others, picked but not drawn ; in others,
again, alive. In case you should ^rneet with the latter, the
best and quickest way of killing is by cutting the throat or
tongue. Some cut the head entirely off. In either way
they should be hung up by the feet without delay, as they
then die much sooner, and bleed -more freely. Begin at
once to pick them, taking a few feathers at a time, and
giving them a quick jerk toward the tail. If you pull
backward, it is apt to tear the skin. Do not scald them,
as young chickens are completely spoiled by being thus
blanched. It does not injure older ones so much if they
are to be used immediately. After you have picked them,
singe, by taking hold of the head and feet and passing them
over the gas or blazing paper, backward and forward, turn-
ing them on both sides, being careful not to burn the skin.
TO CLEAN
Cut off the head and feet at the first joint, split the skin on
the back of the neck, then detach the skin from the neck
and draw it down over the breast, and take out the crop
without breaking it. Now, cut the neck off close to the
166 PHILADELPHIA COOK tiOOK
body. The skin is then left to cover the place where the
neck was cut off. Turn the chicken around, make a vent
under the rump large enough to draw the chicken easily.
Take out all the internal organs the heart, liver, gizzard,
lungs, entrails, and eggs, if there are any, being very care-
ful not to break the gall-bag or entrails, as the contents of
either would render the fowl uneatable unless thoroughly
washed. And I will say, right here, never wash or soak
poultry or game unless you have broken something ; then
do it as quickly as possible, and wipe dry immediately. I
cannot speak too strongly against this abominable practice.
It may be, however, thoroughly washed before it is drawn,
and if this operation be done as directed, will not require
another bath. I was often puzzled to know why our so-
called good cook books should recommend, "soak to draw
out the blood " (and, of course, the flavor and nourish-
ment at the same time), "and throw this water away,"
and perhaps on the next page will be found a recipe for
beef tea, which will read : " Soak in cold water to draw
out the nourishment, throw away the meat and save the
water." This rule applies equally well to all meats. I
wonder no longer after seeing the usual way of drawing
poultry. In going from one house to another, giving
private lessons to ladies in their own kitchens, I have
more than once been shocked and almost sickened at
the way in which this operation was performed. They
first made a gash in the fowl large enough to insert
the whole hand, at the same time cutting the intestines
and dragging them one piece at a time had the whole
chicken, their hand and arm covered with filth. Washing
can never restore to a chicken thus drawn, its flavor. I
would recommend it being thrown away at once, saving
your digestive organs the trouble of digesting that from
which you do not receive full nourishment.
POULTRY AND GAME 167
After drawing properly, wipe inside and out with a
damp towel, remove the oil-sack from the top of the rump,
and it is ready to use.
TO CLEAN THE GIBLETS
Cut the liver away from the gall-bag, being careful not to
break it. Cut the heart open, and remove the clotted
blood. Cut the outer coat of the gizzard, and draw it off,
leaving the inner lining, containing the sand, unbroken.
Wash thoroughly, and they are ready to use. t
The giblets consist of the liver, heart, gizzard, and
neck.
Turkeys, geese, ducks, pigeons, pheasants, and all birds,
are cleaned in the same manner.
TO SELECT A CHICKEN
Buy a chicken with firm flesh, yellow skin and legs. If
young, the cock will have small spurs, and both cock and
hen will have soft, smooth legs and tender skin ; the lower
part of the breast bone will be cartilage, soft and pliable.
If old, the opposites.
Poultry full grown have the best flavor, and are good
for roasting, fricassees, and stewing. Older ones make good
soup or may be served boiled. Spring chickens should only
be broiled or fried. Be sure that they are fresh, and free
from any unpleasant odor. They should be drawn as soon
as possible after they are killed, and hung away in a cool,
dry place for at least twenty-four hours before cooking. If
cooked as soon as killed, they are hard and tough. If
frozen, they should be placed in a warm room to thaw
several hours before they are wanted.
ROAST CHICKEN WITH GIBLET SAUCE
Procure a nice chicken one year old. Singe and clean as
directed. Make a stuffing from one large cupful of stale bread
168 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
crumbs, one tablespoonful of melted butter, a tablespoon ful
of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste. Fill the space
from which you took the crop, sew up the slit in the skin, fold
it over and fasten it on the back of the chicken with a small
skewer; put the remainder of the stuffing in the body of the
chicken ; do not pack it or the dressing will be heavy. Sew
up the vent, place the chicken on a table with the breast up
and the rump towards you ; push the legs up under the skin,
cross them and fasten with a small skewer to the bone of
the rump. Turn the wings back, run another small skewer
through them and the body of the chicken. Now tie the legs
together, wrap the twine around the end of the skewer and
bring it up the back, wrap it around the ends of the wing
skewer, and tie tightly. Put two slices of bacon in the
bottom of a baking-pan, lay the chicken on them, cover
the bottom of the pan with water, add a teaspoonful of
salt, and bake in a quick oven fifteen minutes to every
pound. Baste every ten minutes, first with the water, and
afterwards with its own dripping. Fifteen minutes before
the chicken is done, baste the breast of the chicken with
melted butter, dredge thickly with flour, and put back in
the oven to brown. When done, remove first the strings
then the skewers, place on a hot dish and garnish with par-
sley.
TO MAKE THE SAUCE
Put the giblets in a saucepan and cover with cold water,
place on a moderate fire and let simmer as long as the
chicken roasts. Then cut them fine. Add one tablespoon-
ful of flour to the pan in which the chicken was roasted,
stir over the fire until a nice brown, then add a half-pint
of the liquor in which the giblets were boiled, stir con-
stantly until it boils; now add the chopped giblets, season
to taste, and serve in a boat.
POULTRY AND GAME 169
CHICKEN LARDED AND ROASTED
Draw and clean as directed. Tie the legs and wings the
same as for Roast Chicken. Lard the breast with small
lardoons about an inch apart, making two rows on each
side. Place the chicken in a baking-pan, put a tablespoon-
ful of butter and a half-teaspoon ful of salt in the pan, place
in a quick oven, and baste every ten minutes. Roast fifteen
minutes to every pound if the chicken is young. Serve
with brown sauce.
CHICKEN STUFFED WITH CHESTNUTS
Draw and clean the chicken as directed. Roast one quart
of large chestnuts ; when done, remove the shells and
mash. Put one-half the chestnuts in a bowl, add a table-
spoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of
pepper, mix and fill the chicken the same as with bread
crumbs. Lard the breast thickly with salt pork ; place
the chicken in a baking-pan, add a half-cup of water and
a half-teaspoon ful of salt ; roast in a quick oven fifteen
minutes to each pound, basting every ten minutes. When
done, dish, remove the strings and skewers, garnish with
parsley. Put the remaining chestnuts in the pan in which
the chicken was roasted, mix well, add a half-pint of stock,
stir until it boils, add salt and pepper to taste, and serve in
a boat.
Chickens may also be stuffed with oyster or potato
stuffing.
BOILED CHICKEN
For boiling, select a chicken over a year old, middling fat,
and with dark yellow skin. Clean, stuff and truss the same
as for roasting. Dredge it thickly with flour, put it in a
pot with just water enough to cover, add a quarter-cup
of washed rice. Cover the pot closely, and put it over a
170 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
moderate fire to simmer until the chicken is very tender
about two hours if the chicken is old. When done, remove
the strings and skewers, serve with egg or oyster sauce.
The water in which the chicken was boiled may be used
for soup.
TO BRAISE A CHICKEN
i young chicken ^ small carrot
i onion i pint of stock
i sprig of parsley 4 cloves
i bay leaf 12 mushrooms
i gill of sherry, if you use wine
Draw and singe the chicken as directed. Truss it without
filling. Place the carrot and onion sliced in the bottom of
a baking or braising-pan, add the cloves and parsley, and
place the chicken on top; add the stock, a teaspoon ful of
salt and a little black pepper; cover the pan, and place in a
quick oven for one and a half hours,- basting every fifteen
minutes. Then dish the fowl. Put a tablespoonful of but-
ter in a frying-pan, let it melt and brown ; then add a
tablespoonful of flour, mix, add the liquor from the pan in
which the chicken was braised, and then the mushrooms,
chopped fine. Stir continually until it boils. Take it
from the fire, season to taste, add the wine if used, and
pour it around the chicken.
SMOTHERED CHICKEN
Singe a young chicken and split it down the back. Take
out the intestines. Wipe it with a damp towel. Lay the
the chicken, with inside downwards, in a baking-pan,
breaking the breast-bone to make it lie flat. Spread the
breast with a quarter-pound of butter, dredge with pepper.
Put a teaspoonful of salt and a half-cup of water in the
bottom of the baking-pan, place it in a hot oven, cover
with another pan, let it bake for half an hour, basting every
POULTRY AND GAME 171
ten minutes. Now remove the upper pan, turn the chicken,
baste it well on the inside, cover again, and bake for another
half-hour. When done, place it on a hot dish ; put the pan
in which the chicken was cooked on top of the fire to
brown, add one tablespoonful of flour, and stir until smooth
and brown, then add a half-pint of milk, and stir constantly
until it boils. Taste to see if properly seasoned ; if not,
add salt and pepper. Serve in a boat.
A BROWN FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN
Draw and singe the chicken as directed. Cut it into eleven
pieces. First take off the legs with second joints, then
separate the second joints from the leg, making four pieces;
take off the wings. Now cut through the ribs on either
side, unjoint the back and breast, cut the breast in half
lengthwise, making two nice pieces ; unjoint the back, and
make two pieces of lower back. Place a quarter-pound of
salt pork or two ounces of butter in a saucepan ; when a nice
brown, put in the chicken. Stir until every piece is nicely
browned, then add two tablespoon fuls of flour; stir again,
add one pint of boiling water or stock, stir until it boils ;
add a teaspoonful of salt. Cover, and let simmer gently
until tender, then add a teaspoonful of onion juice, and a
little black pepper. Dish. Put the neck-piece, heart,
liver, gizzard, and the back pieces in the centre of the
dish ; put the two pieces of breast on top, the second joints
on one side of the plate, the legs crossed on the other, and
a wing at each end of the plate. Pour the sauce over,
sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve.
A WHITE FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN
Clean and cut the same as for a Brown Fricassee. Clean
the giblets. Now put the whole in a stewing- pan, partly
172 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
cover with boiling water, set over a moderate fire, and sim-
mer until tender (about an hour and a quarter if the chicken
is young). When the chicken is done, there should be no
water left; if there is, remove the lid, and allow it to evapo-
rate quickly. Dish the chicken same as before. Put one
large tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan; and when
melted, add two tablespoon fuls of flour; mix well, but do
not brown. Now add one pint of milk, turn the whole into
the stewpan in which the chicken was boiled, and stir con-
tinually until it boils ; add salt and pepper to taste, take it
from the fire, add the beaten yolks of two eggs, pour it over
the chicken, sprinkle with a tablespoonful of chopped
parsley, and serve with rice croquettes. Do not boil after
adding the eggs, or the sauce will curdle.
STEWED CHICKEN
Clean and cut the chicken as for Brown Fricassee. Put it
in a stewpan, partly cover with boiling water, and simmer
gently until tender (a young chicken about an hour and a
quarter, an old one two hours to two and a half). When
about half done, add a teaspoonful of salt. When the
chicken is done, dish it as directed for a fricassee. Moisten
two tablespoonfuls of flour with a little cold water, stir it
into the liquor in which the chicken was boiled ; then stir
continually until it boils, add salt and pepper to taste and
a half-cup of good cream. Take it from the fire, add the
beaten yolk of an egg, pour it over the chicken, and serve.
CHICKEN au SUPREME
This is a white fricassee made from the breasts of chickens
only. Take a pair of chickens, clean as directed ; detach
the flesh from each side of the breast bone carefully in two
long pieces, called fillets. In two chickens you will have
POULTRY AND GAME 173
four pieces. Cut the remainder of the chicken as you
would for a fricassee, put it in a saucepan and nearly cover
with cold water; add one small onion, sliced, one bay leaf,
four cloves, and a blade of mace. Cover, and bring slowly
to a boil. Now place the fillets carefully over the top of this,
and simmer gently until tender (about one hour), sprinkling
them with salt, when half done. When done, dish the
fillets tastefully, and stand in a warm place while you make
the sauce.
THE SAUCE
Put one large tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan to
melt, then add one tablespoonful of flour. Mix until
smooth; add a half-pint of the liquor in which the chickens
were cooked, stir continually until it boils, then add salt
and pepper to taste, and take from the fire; add one table-
spoonful of cream, the yolks of two eggs, and a tablespoon-
ful of chopped parsley. Pour over the fillets, and serve.
This may be served plain, with truffles, mushrooms, or
a border of rice.
The dark meat may be used for croquettes, cecils,
Italian chicken, or chicken terrapin.
CHICKEN a la MARENGO
Clean and cut up a young chicken as for fricassee. Put two
tablespoon fuls of olive oil in a frying- pan and place it over
a good fire; when hot, put in the chicken, and turn and
cook until every piece is nicely browned, then add a sprig
of parsley, a bay leaf, one slice of onion, a half-teaspoon-
ful of salt, a quarter-teaspoonful of black pepper, and five
mushrooms chopped fine. Stand over a more moderate
heat, and cook slowly until tender (about three quarters of
an hour). Dish, and serve with cream sauce.
17 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
PILAFF OF CHICKEN
i four-pound chicken
y<2. cup of rice
i teaspoon ful of salt
Clean and cut the chicken the same as for a fricassee. Put
it in a stewpan, half cover it with boiling water, and set it
on a moderate fire to simmer. Now wash the rice, add it
to the chicken, also the salt, and let all simmer until the
chicken is tender. Make a tomato sauce. Dish the chicken
and rice together, and pour over it the tomato sauce.
This dish is very nice made from cold pieces of chicken
or mutton.
You may also use macaroni instead of rice.
BRUNSWICK STEW (Mrs. Cobb, of Richmond, Va.)
i chicken (four pounds) i quart of tomatoes
4 medium-sized potatoes i pint of very tender Lima
i pint of grated corn beans
*/z pound of lean ham i large onion
i tablespoonful of chopped ^ pound of butter
parsley 3 quarts of boiling water
Salt, cayenne and black pepper to taste
Draw, singe, and cut up the chicken as for a fricassee. Put
it in a large saucepan with the boiling water, the onion
sliced and ham cut into dice. Cover the saucepan and
simmer gently for one and a half hours. Then add the
salt, the tomatoes peeled and sliced, the potatoes pared and
cut into quarters, the corn, beans, parsley, cayenne and black
pepper. Cover again and simmer one hour longer ; then
add the butter cut into bits and rolled in flour** stir five
minutes over the fire, and serve.
Great care must be taken or the stew will scorch.
Keep it over a very moderate fire, and stir frequently from
the bottom of the saucepan.
POULTRY AND GAME 175
This stew, if carefully prepared, is most delicious. It
may be made in winter from the canned vegetables ; but, of
course, is not so good.
CURRY OF CHICKEN
Clean and cut the chicken the same as for a fricassee. Put
two ounces of butter into a frying-pan. Cut one small
onion into slices, add it, with the chicken, to the butter, and
fry until a golden brown ; then skim the chicken out of
the pan, carefully put it in a stewing-pan and 'partly cover
with boiling water, add a half-teaspoonful of salt, and
simmer gently until the chicken is tender (about one hour).
When done, add to it a teaspoon ful of sugar and the juice
of half a lemon. Mix one even tablespoonful of curry
powder and one of flour, with a little cold water, 4o a
smooth paste, and add it to the chicken. Stir continually
until it boils. Serve with boiled rice heaped around it ;
or, a teaspoonful of curry powder may be added to a white
fricassee or a plain stew.
FRIED CHICKEN
Clean and cut the chicken the same as for a fricassee. Dredge
each piece thickly with salt, pepper and flour. Put three
tablespoon fuls of oil or lard in a frying-pan ; and when
very hot, put in the chicken, and fry slowly until it is done.
If young (as it should be), it will fry in three-quarters of
an hour. Watch it carefully that it may not burn. When
done, arrange the pieces on a hot dish. Pour all the fat,
but about one tablespoonful, from the frying-pan; then
add a tablespoonful of flour, mix and add a half-pint of
milk or cream, stir, season with salt and pepper, and pour
over the chicken.
176 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
SPRING CHICKENS (TO BROIL)
Singe, take off the head and feet, and split the chicken
down the back ; take out the internals, wipe the chicken,
inside and out ; with a mallet break the breast -bone. Dust
the chicken on the inside with salt and pepper ; place it on a
broiler with inside downward or next to the fire. Broil
over a slow fire three-quarters of an hour, keeping a plate
turned over it all the time. Just before it is done, turn it
and brown the skin side. When done, place on a heated
dish, baste with melted butter, and season with salt and
pepper.
Spring chickens may also be fried or smothered.
CHICKEN a la TARTARE
Take a spring chicken, split it down the back as directed.
Placfe it in a baking-pan, spread it thickly with butter, dust
with salt and pepper, sprinkle with a tablespoonful of
chopped parsley and the same of chopped onion. Cover
the pan, place in a quick oven for three-quarters of an
hour. Then take it from the pan, brush it over with beaten
egg, strew with bread crumbs, and broil over a gentle fire
until a nice brown. Serve with sauce Tartare.
CHICKEN CHOPS
FOR THE FORCEMEAT
White meat of one chicken i gill of milk
i gill of bread crumbs i tablespoonful of chopped
Yolk of one egg parsley
Salt and pepper
FOR THE CHOPS
Dark meat of one chicken i onion
i bay leaf y 2 box of gelatine
Yolk of one egg 2 large tablespoonfuls of
i tablespoonful of butter flour
Salt and cayenne
PO UL TR V AND GAME 177
Put the dark meat in a saucepan, just cover it with boiling
water, add the onion and bay leaf, and let it simmer slowly
until the chicken is tender (about one hour). Cover the
gelatine with a half-cup of cold water, and let it soak while
the chicken is stewing. As soon as the chicken is tender,
take the meat from the bones and chop it very fine. Put
the butter into a frying-pan ; and, when melted, add the
flour, mix until smooth, and then add a half-pint of the
liquor in which the chicken was boiled; stir constantly
until it boils and thickens, then add the gelatine, the yolk
of the egg, salt and cayenne to taste ; mix well, and turn
into a shallow pan, having the mixture about a half-inch
thick. Stand away on the ice to harden.
Now prepare the forcemeat. Chop the uncooked white
meat of the chicken very fine. Put the milk on to boil,
add to it the crumbs, stir until it thickens ; add to it the
chopped chicken, parsley, a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash
of cayenne. Mix all well together, take from the fire, add
the yolk of the egg, and turn out to cool.
When the chop mixture is cold, cut it into chop-shaped
pieces with a knife ; cut as closely as possible, wasting none
of the mixture. Lift each chop carefully from the pan,
and cover every part with a thin layer of the forcemeat.
Stand them on the ice for fifteen minutes, then dip them
in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry them in boil-
ing oil or fat. Serve with cream sauce.
CHICKEN CUTLETS
Draw and singe a young chicken as directed. Cut the skin
and draw it entirely off of the breast. Take off the wings
at the second or middle joint, not the one nearest the body.
Now run a sharp knife along the breast-bone, removing one-
half the breast in one solid piece with the first joint of the
178 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
wing, thus making a chop or cutlet of one-half the breast
with the first joint of the wing bone as a handle. Remove
the other side in the same way. One chicken will only make
two cutlets. The dark meat may be used for croquettes or
other dishes. Put the dark meat in a stewpan and nearly
cover with boiling water; add a small onion, a bay leaf, four
cloves and a sprig of parsley ; place the cutlets in good shape
on top of this, cover, and let simmer gently until tender
this can be told by piercing with a fork. When done, take
out the cutlets, dust them with salt and pepper, and baste
with a tablespoonful of melted butter. Stand the dark meat
away until wanted. Let the cutlets stand until cold, or
until you are ready to use them. Then dip them first in
egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat until
a golden brown. Trim the bones with a frill of paper,
arrange the cutlets around the outside of a meat dish, fill
the centre with cream sauce, and serve.
CHICKEN CROQUETTES
i four-pound chicken i pair of sweetbreads
i small onion 4 whole cloves
i bay leaf i sprig of parsley
Clean and singe the chicken as directed. Put it on to cook
in boiling water ; add the onion, bay leaf, cloves and par-
sley. Cover and simmer gently until the meat is very ten-
der. While this is cooking, prepare the sweetbreads. Trim
all the fat and pipes off, wash well in cold water, and soak
for fifteen minutes; drain, cover with boiling water, add
one teaspoonful of salt, and stand over a very moderate
fire for twenty minutes. Do not boil, as it makes them very
tough. When done, throw them into cold water for a few
minutes, remove the fibrous skin from the outside, and chop
the sweetbreads fine with a silver knife. A steel knife
spoils the flavor on account of the acid they contain. As
POULTRY AND GAME 179
soon as the chicken is done, remove the skin and bones, put
them back in the kettle to simmer longer, add salt, and
the liquor may be used for soup. Chop the meat very fine,
then mix it with the sweetbreads, and to every pint of this
meat allow
YZ pint of milk or cream
1 large tablespoon ml of butter
2 large tablespoon fuls of flour
i large tablespoon ful of chopped parsley
i teaspoonful of onion juice
i teaspoonful of salt
% teaspoonful of nutmeg, grated
Cayenne and pepper to taste
Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Rub the butter
and flour to a smooth paste, then stir it into the boiling
milk, and stir continually until it is very thick ; take it
from the fire, add the meat, and beat until thoroughly
mixed; add the seasonings, tasting to see if enough salt
and pepper; then turn out on a large plate to cool. When
cold and hard, form into cone-shaped croquettes. (There
are moulds that come for this purpose.) Dip first in egg
and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling oil or fat.
Serve at once with a small sprig of parsley in the top of
each croquette.
To warm over, place them on soft paper and stand
them in the oven for a few moments. Cold roast chicken
or turkey may be made into croquettes; you may also use
calf's brains instead of sweetbreads, prepared in the same
manner.
Where the family Js small, the white meat of the
chicken may be used for salad, and the dark for croquettes.
With a pair of sweetbreads, a four-pound chicken will make
a quart of nice soup, nine croquettes, and one and a half
pints of chicken salad ; using all the meat, you make thir-
teen croquettes.
180 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
CHICKEN CECILS
Chicken Cecils may be made the same as Meat Cecils, using
chicken instead of beef or mutton.
CHICKEN TERRAPIN
Boil the chicken the same as for Chicken Croquettes, and
cut it into dice. To every quart of the cut meat allow
3 hard-boiled eggs ^ pound of butter
^ teaspoonful of ground fa cup of cream
mace y% teaspoonful of ground
i tablespoonful of flour cloves
i gill of sherry Salt and cayenne to taste
Put the chicken in a saucepan. Rub the butter and flour
together, add it to the chicken, then add the seasoning and
cream. Stand over a very moderate fire until thoroughly
heated. Chop the whites of the eggs very, very fine, then
add them to the chicken. Mash the yolks of the eggs,
with two or three tablespoonfuls of cream to a smooth
paste, then add to the chicken and stir the whole over the
fire until it comes to the boiling point ; add the wine, and
serve immediately.
More or less wine may be added according to taste.
Calf's liver, after parboiling for fifteen minutes, is
delicious dressed in this same manner.
BOUDINS a la REINE
i pint of cold cooked chicken, chopped fine
1 tablespoonful of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of dried bread crumbs
YZ cup of stock or boiling water
2 eggs
i^ nutmeg, grated
i tablespoonful of chopped parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
Put the butter in a frying-pan to melt, add to it the bread
POULTRY AND GAME 181
crumbs and stock ; stir until it boils. Take from the fire,
and add the chick e'n, parsley, nutmeg, salt and pepper,
and then the, eggs slightly beaten ; mix thoroughly. Now
fill tea or custard cups two-thirds full with this mixture,
stand in a baking-pan half filled with boiling water, and
bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. When done,
turn them out carefully on a heated dish, and pour around
them cecil sauce.
Remains of cold roast or boiled turkey may be used
in the same way.
CHICKEN a 1' ITALIENNE
Cold roast or boiled chicken may be used for this dish.
If a chicken is cooked specially, boil as directed for
chicken croquettes. Cut the meat into dice, and to every
pint of meat allow
i tablespoon ful of butter
i tablespoonful of flour
12 drops of onion juice
3 hard-boiled eggs
i gill of cream or milk
i gill of stock
Salt and pepper to taste
Put the butter in a frying-pan to melt, add to it the flour,
and stir until thoroughly mixed ; then add the stock and
cream ; stir again until it boils. Take from the fire, add
the chicken and seasoning. Mix carefully, and stand it
over boiling water until thoroughly heated. Take from
the fire, and dish. Press the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs
through the " Hennis Vegetable Press," or through a fine
sieve, and sprinkle them lightly over the top, and it is ready
to serve.
This may also be served in individual dishes or in
paper cases.
182 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
. CHICKEN a la BECHAMEL
I pint of cold chicken, 2 tablespoonfuls of white
cut into dice stock
i tablespoonful of butter 6 mushrooms, chopped fine
i tablespoonful of flour i sweetbread
y<2, pint of cream or milk Salt and pepper to taste
Clean and parboil the sweetbread for twenty minutes as
directed. Pick it to pieces, rejecting all the fibrous skin,
and mix with the chicken. Put the butter in a frying-pan
to melt, being careful not to brown it ; when melted, add
the flour and mix well, then add the cream or milk and
stock; stir continually until it boils ; add the chicken, sweet-
bread, and mushrooms, salt and pepper ; stir carefully until
thoroughly heated, and serve either in individual dishes or
paper cases.
DEVILED CHICKEN
Chop very fine any pieces of cold cooked chicken that
may be left. To every pint of this meat allow
YZ pint of cream 3 hard-boiled eggs
i tablespooonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of bread
i tablespoonful of chopped crumbs
parsley % nutmeg, grated
Salt and cayenne to taste
Put the butter in a frying-pan to melt, then add the bread
crumbs, cream, chicken, and seasoning ; stir over the fire
until it boils ; then add the hard-boiled eggs chopped very
fine. Fill paper cases or individual dishes with this mix-
ture, sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs, and brown in a
quick oven.
CHAUD FROID OF CHICKEN
i cold roast chicken i tablespoonful of butter
i tablespoonful of flour y 2 pint of milk or cream
Salt and pepper to taste
Strip the skin carefully from the chicken, and cut the meat
into nice pieces, about an inch and a half long and an inch
POULTRY AND GAME 183
wide. Now put the butter in a frying-pan to melt, add to
it the flour ; mix until smooth ; add the milk or cream,
stir continually until it boils and thickens ; add salt and
pepper. Into this sauce dip each piece of chicken, and
place the pieces on a dish, one not touching the other.
Stand away until very cold. When cold, arrange the pieces
nicely on a dish, sprinkle them with a little parsley chopped
very fine, garnish with aspic jelly and parsley, and serve.
BLANQUETTE OF CHICKEN
A blanquette may be made from any cold cooked chicken
or veal, cut into pieces about half an inch square. To
every pint of these pieces allow
i gill of stock or water i tablespoonful of butter
i gill of milk or, better, i tablespoonful of flour
cream Yolks of two eggs
Salt and pepper to taste
Put the butter in a frying-pan to melt (do not brown) ; then
add the flour ; mix until smooth ; add the stock, cream,
salt, and pepper ; stir continually until it boils ; then add
the meat, and stand over a very moderate fire until hot.
Take from the fire, add the yolks well beaten, and serve at
once in a small heated dish.
Do not boil after adding the yolks, or it will curdle.
CHICKEN LIVERS en BROCHETTE
Scald the livers and soak them in the boiling water for five
minutes. Cut breakfast bacon into pieces the size of the
livers. Drain and wipe the livers ; then put one piece on
a steel or silver skewer, then a piece of bacon, and so on,
until the skewer is nearly filled about three of each on a
six-inch skewer. Now dredge with salt and pepper, and
baste with melted butter. Broil over a clear fire for five
minutes. Serve on the skewers, with a little melted butter
poured over them.
184 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
BAKED CHICKEN PIE
i four or five-pound i tablespoonful of butter
chicken i tablespoonful of chopped
4 medium-sized potatoes parsley
y 2 pound of ham Salt and pepper
Draw, singe, and cut the chicken the same as for a fricassee;
put it into a saucepan, cover with boiling water, and sim-
mer for an hour or so until the meat is tender when
pierced with a fork. Now proceed in exactly the same
manner as directed in the recipe for Veal Pie. Serve in the
baking-dish.
Rabbit and squirrel baked pie may be made in the
same way, using two young rabbits or four squirrels instead
of one chicken.
CHICKEN POT-PIE
i large year-old chicken i pound of lean ham
The rule for plain suet paste 4 medium-sized potatoes
Salt and pepper
Make the paste first and stand it in a cool place while you
draw and singe the chicken. Cut it up as for a fricassee;
pare and cut the potatoes into dice, cut the ham the same
size. Now roll out half the paste into a thin sheet. Butter
the sides and bottom of a rounding pot, line it with the
sheet of paste, and trim the top ; roll out these trimmings
into a sheet, and cut them into squares. Now put a layer
of chicken in the bottom of the pot, then a layer of po-
tatoes, then a sprinkling of ham, salt, pepper, and the
squares of paste, then the remainder of the chicken, and
then the potatoes, etc. Roll out the remainder of the
paste, make a hole in the middle of it, and lay it on top
of the last layer, which should be potatoes. Pour in
through this hole about one quart of boiling water, place
it over a moderate fire, and simmer continually for one and
a half hours. Half an hour before the pie is done, add one
POULTRY A'D GAME 185
tablespoonful of butter, cut into bits, through the hole in
top crust. When done, turn it out on a large dish so that
the bottom crust will be uppermost.
Rabbit or squirrel pot-pie may be made in the same
manner, using two rabbits or three squirrels.
CHICKEN SOUFFLE
i pint of cold chopped i pint of milk
chicken ^ teaspoon ful of salt
i tablespoonful of butter 2 dashes of pepper
i tablespoon ful of chopped i tablespoonful of flour
parsley 3 eggs
YI cup of stale bread crumbs
Put the butter into a small saucepan, and, when melted,
add the flour, and mix until smooth ; then add the milk,
stir continually until it boils ; add the crumbs ; cook one
minute. Take from the fire, add salt, -pepper, parsley,
chicken, and the yolks of the eggs well beaten. Beat the
whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, stir them into the mix-
ture carefully. Pour into a greased baking-dish, and bake
in a quick oven for twenty minutes. Serve immediately,
or it will fall
CASSEROLE OF CHICKEN
2 cups of rice i tablespoonful of butter
3 quarts of cold water y 2 cup of cream
i tablespoonful of salt Pepper to taste
Wash the rice in cold water, put it in a saucepan with the
cold water. Boil slowly for one hour, then drain in a col-
ander, mash, and add the butter, cream, salt, and pepper.
Brush a casserole or raised pie mould with butter and then
with cold milk. Press the rice into this, and stand away to
cool ; when cool, take out the centre of the rice, leaving a
wall and bottom about one inch thick. Fill this cavity
with a nice white fricassee of chicken. Use the rice taken
186 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
out for an upper covering. Be careful not to press out the
sauce when covering. Brush the top over with beaten egg,
and put in a quick oven to brown. When brown, place on
a dish, draw the little rods that fasten the mould together,
and remove the mould, leaving the bottom under the cas-
serole on the dish. It will not show, and it spoils the cas-
serole to move it. If your mould has no bottom, it must
be browned on the dish you serve it on. Pour stewed
mushrooms around, and serve.
MARBLED MEAT
1 good-sized chicken (five pounds)
6 sheep's tongues
2 hard-boiled eggs
1 pound of ham or bacon
^ teaspoonful of mace
6 mushrooms
2 tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley
^ teaspoonful of cloves
i tablespoonful of onion juice
Salt and pepper
Clean the chicken, and take all the meat from the bones.
Cover the sheep's tongues with cold water, and boil gently
for two hours; then skin and cut them into thin slices.
Chop the ham or bacon ; cut the hard-boiled eggs into
slices ; grease a mould (with a cover), put in a layer of
chicken, then a layer of sheep's tongues, then a layer of
ham, then a layer of hard-boiled eggs sliced, then a sprink-
ling of the mushrooms chopped fine, parsley, cloves, mace,
salt, pepper, and a few drops of the onion juice, then another
layer of chicken, and continue these alternations until all
is used. Press all well together, cover the mould, stand it
in a pot of boiling water, and boil two hours. Do not
have the water deep enough to cover the mould. When
done, remove the lid and stand away to cool. Then turn
POULTRY AND GAME 187
it out of the mould, and garnish with aspic jelly or parsley
and slices of lemon.
The bones of the chicken may be used for making
soup.
CHICKEN IN JELLY
i four-pound chicken i small onion
i bay leaf 3 whole cloves
i blade of mace % box of gelatine
3 hard-boiled eggs Salt and pepper to taste
Clean the chicken and cut it up as for a fricassee. Put it
on to cook with the onion, bay leaf, cloves, mace and pep-
per. Simmer slowly until the chicken is tender (about one
and one-half hours if the chicken is young). When done,
take it out, cut it from the bones in nice pieces, rejecting all
the skin. Now put the bones and skin back into the kettle
and simmer one hour longer. Cover the gelatine with a
little cold water, and let it soak an hour. Put the chicken
away until the next day. Add the gelatine to the liquor,
stir over the fire about one minute, take from the fire and
strain. If not clear, clarify the same as Bouillon. Taste
to see if properly seasoned if not, add more salt and
pepper and stand it away also. There should be about
one and a half pints of liquor when done. The next day, take
all the fat from the top of the jelly, stand the jelly on the
fire to melt, then pour into a square mould about a half-
pint, and stand it on the ice to harden. When hard, put
a layer of the chicken on top of the jelly, then slices of
the hard-boiled eggs, sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper,
then more chicken, and so on until all is used. Now pour
over this the remainder of the jelly, which should be cold,
but still liquid, and should just cover the chicken. Stand
away in a cold place over night. When wanted, turn care-
fully from the mould, and garnish with parsley or light-
colored celery tops.
188 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
BONED CHICKEN
i pair of year-old chickens i cup of stale bread crumbs
y% pound of sausage meat i teaspoon ful of salt
i tablespoonful of chopped i teaspoonful of onion juice
parsley % teaspoonful of pepper
Singe the chickens, cut off the heads and feet. The one
that has the smoothest and best skin should be boned care-
fully for the outside ; the other one may be used for the
inside.
TO BONE
Place the chicken on the table with the breast down ;
take a very small, sharp-pointed knife and cut the skin
from the neck to the rump, down the backbone. Now
carefully and slowly run the knife between the bones
and flesh toward one of the wings. When you come to
the thin bone, and the joint nearest the body, unjoint,
and then separate it from the body ; now run the knife
between the flesh and the bone of the wing, and
remove each bone as you come to the joint ; the small
bones in the tips of the wings cannot be taken out, so they
may be either left on or cut off the first is best. Now
run the knife close to the bones until you come to the third
joint of the legs ; by twisting and cutting this joint, it
will easily open, then separate it from the body ; take the
bones out of the leg in the same manner as the wing. The
lower leg-bone can be taken out easily by turning it wrong
side out and stripping the bone down. Now run the knife
between the bones and flesh, on the same side, until you
come to the breast-bone. Then turn the chicken and bone
the other side the same. Now pull out the crop; then
take the neck in one hand and the flesh and skin in the
other, and gently pull the flesh, and you will partly uncover
the upper part of the breast-bone ; now take your finger
and press the flesh from the breast -bone till you come to
POULTRY AND GAME 189
the edge, then lay the chicken on its back ; let some one
take hold of it by the neck. Now take hold of the flesh
and skin of the neck with your left hand, and pulling it
gently down, with the knife cut the skin carefully from the
breast-bone, the carcass coming out whole. All along this
bone there is no flesh between the skin and bone, so it
requires great care not to cut the skin, it should be per-
fectly whole without one break when the chicken is finished.
After removing the carcass, cut off the rump, leaving it
attached to the flesh and skin ; see that it is clean, wipe
the skin with a damp towel, and spread the chicken out
flesh side up ; dredge it with salt and pepper. Cut up the
other chicken, take the meat from the bones and chop it fine.
Mix it with the sausage meat, add the crumbs, salt, pepper,
parsley, and onion juice, and mix again. Take a small
portion of this forcemeat and press carefully into the wings
and legs where the bones have been taken out ; form the
remainder of it into a roll the shape of the carcass, and
place it in the boned chicken ; draw the skin together and
sew it up from the neck to rump. Now turn it over on its
back, tuck the wings back, and draw the legs down to the
side of the body, press it with your hands until it is the
shape of the chicken before you boned it. It is impossible
to give it the exact shape ; it will look more like a duck
than a chicken. Now wrap it up tightly in a towel, tie
with twine, running it all around so that it cannot open in
any place. Now place the bones from both chickens and
the skin from the one you chopped in a kettle, pour in cold
water enough to cover them, and a little more. Add a
knuckle of veal, one bay leaf, one onion, four cloves, a
sprig of parsley, twelve pepper-corns, a small-sized carrot,
sliced. Stand it over a moderate fire ; at the first boil,
skim it, add salt ; lay the boned chicken on top of these,
cover the kettle, and simmer gently for four hours. When
190 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
done, take it from the kettle, remove the towel, and stand
away to cool. Simmer the bones two hours longer, then
strain and stand the liquor away to cool. When cold, take
the fat from the top. There should be two quarts of this
jelly. If a knuckle of veal is not at hand, cover one box
of gelatine with one pint of cold water and soak one hour.
After you have taken the fat from the jelly, put into a
saucepan to melt ; when melted and hot, add the soaked
gelatine and stir until dissolved. Be sure that there are
two quarts of the jelly ; if not, add hot water to make the
quantity. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour a
layer about half an inch deep in an oblong basin or mould,
stand away to harden, then lay the chicken on top and pour
over and around it the remainder of the jelly, which must
be cold but liquid, and should just cover the chicken ; now
put it in a very cold place over night. When wanted, wipe
the mould with a warm cloth, and turn carefully out ; gar-
nish with parsley and sauce Tartare.
Or, when the chicken is done, remove the towel, place
the chicken in a baking-pan, baste it with water, dust it
with salt and pepper, and brown in a quick oven about
thirty minutes. Stand it away to cool. Make the jelly
as directed, season and put away to harden in a shallow
pan. When hard, remove the fat, and chop half of the
jelly on a towel with a silver knife. Place the chicken
on a flat dish, and put the chopped jelly all over it about
a half-inch thick; cut the remaining jelly into squares
(about an inch) or fancy shapes, and place them around
the dish, forming a border of jelly. In summer this is
the better way, as the jelly melts so quickly. It may also
be served without jelly, garnished with parsley or white
celery and sauce Tartare. The liquor in which it was
cooked may then be used for soup. A boned chicken
may be kept four or five days.
POULTRY AND GAME 191
PRESSED CHICKEN
An old chicken may be used for this.
Draw and singe as directed. Wipe well with a damp
towel, put in a kettle and cover with cold water. Pfece
over a moderate fire, and simmer gently until the meat falls
from the bones ; add one teaspoonful of salt when about
half done. It will take about three or four hours to cook,
if the fowl is old. When done, take the meat from the
bones and cut it into small pieces, not over a half-inch
square. Put the bones and skin back into the kettle, and
boil until the liquor is reduced to one and a half pints, then
strain, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix this
with the chicken, pour the whole into a square tin mould
and stand in a very cold place over night. A light weight
may be placed on top to press it together, a flat-iron on a
small board is best. When hard and cold, turn out of the
mould, garnish with parsley, and serve.
This is nice for picnics or a tea dish in summer.
CAPONS
A caponed chicken is drawn, cleaned, and singed in the
same way as a common chicken. It may be roasted or
boiled according to the recipes given for chicken, or stuffed
with truffles and roasted, according to the recipe given for
Turkey Stuffed with Truffles. A capon thus prepared makes
a very recherche dish.
TURKEY
Young hen turkeys are best for roasting. The legs should
be black, the skin white, the breast broad and fat ; and the
shorter the neck the better. An old hen has reddish rough
legs. A gobbler, if young, should have black legs and
small spurs, and is always much larger than the hen of the
192 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
same age. The flesh of an old gobbler is strong and tough,
and it can be told by its reddish legs and long spurs.
ROAST TURKEY WITH GIBLET SAUCE
Clean and prepare exactly the same as Roast Chicken, using
double the amount of stuffing^ and roasting fifteen minutes
to every pound.
ROAST TURKEY STUFFED WITH CHESTNUTS
Follow the recipe given for Chicken Stuffed with Chestnuts
using double the amount of chestnuts.
ROAST TURKEY STUFFED WITH TRUFFLES
For this procure a fresh young hen turkey. Draw and singe
according to directions given for chicken. Cut one pound
of ham into dice, stand over a moderate fire in a saucepan ;
when hot, add two pounds of truffles, quarter of a nutmeg
grated, a quarter-teaspoon ful of white pepper and a bay
leaf; stir over the fire for fifteen minutes, and stand away
to cool. When cold, put two tablespoon fuls of the mixture
into the space from which the craw was taken, put the
remainder into the body of the turkey, and sew it up.
Truss, and hang it up in a cool, dry place for about five
days in winter; in warmer weather, two days. Roast as
directed in preceding recipe, and serve with truffle sauce.
A turkey is delicious stuffed with mushrooms in the
same way.
COLD ROAST TURKEY
The remains of cold roast or boiled turkey may be used in
croquettes, bodines, blanquettes, terrapin, or any of the
numerous dishes given for cold chicken.
BOILED TURKEY No. i
Draw and singe the turkey as directed for chicken. Truss,
but do not stuff. Put into a kettle, large enough to hold
POULTRY AND GAME 193
the turkey, one tablespoonful of butter, one tablespoon ful
chopped parsley, and, if you like, a teaspoonful of chopped
onion j place it over a good fire, and, when the butter is
hot, add water enough to cover the turkey. Take a cloth
of suitable size, flour it well, and wrap around the turkey,
then tie with twine. Put it in the kettle of boiling water,
and simmer gently fifteen minutes to every pound. When
done, remove the cloth and serve with oyster, egg, or bread
sauce.
BOILED TURKEY No. 2
2 cups of bread crumbs 25 oysters
1 tablespoonful of butter i large tablespoonful of
Y* small onion parsley
2 bay leaves 4 cloves
i quart of stock Salt and pepper to taste
Draw the turkey; wipe it, inside and out, with a damp
towel.
TO MAKE THE FILLING
Drain the oysters, add them to the bread crumbs, then add
the butter, parsley, one teaspoonful of salt and a dash of
pepper ; mix all together.
Fill and truss the same as in Roast Chicken. Now
place the turkey in a baking-pan, spread the breast with
butter, and put in a very quick oven to brown, about a half-
hour. Then take it from the oven, put it into a soup kettle
with the onion, bay leaves, cloves and stock. Cover, and
let simmer slowly for two hours, or until the turkey is tender.
Serve with the following or oyster sauce:
THE SAUCE
i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour
YZ pint of the liquor in Yolk of one egg
which it was boiled Salt and pepper to taste
Put the butter in a frying-pan to melt, add to it the flour,
194 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
mix well; add the liquor, and stir constantly until it boils;
add salt and pepper, take from the fire, and add the beaten
yolk.
If you use wine, four tablespoonfuls of sherry may be
added to the stock when you put the turkey on to simmer.
Serve cranberry sauce with it.
BONED TURKEY
To bone, proceed in exactly the same manner as for Boned
Chicken. When boned, fill with the following:
i pair of chickens weighing about eight pounds
i cold boiled tongue
i pint of mushrooms or truffles -
1 pound of sausage meat
2 tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley
Chop the uncooked meat of the chickens very fine. Cut the
tongue into very thin slices. Cut the mushrooms also into
slices ; spread the turkey out on the table, with the inside
up and the rump towards you; dust it well with salt and
pepper. Now put on a layer of sausage meat, then a layer
of mushrooms, then a layer of chopped chicken, then a
layer of tongue, then a sprinkling of parsley and so on
until you have used nearly all the materials given. Mix the
remaining materials, which should be just enough to fill the
wings and legs. Bring the two sides of the skin together,
giving the turkey a round form, sew it up, turn it over,
tuck back the wings and fasten them with a small skewer;
bring the legs down by the side of the turkey and fasten
them in the same way. Now finish in precisely the same
manner as a boned chicken. (See directions given for
Boned Chicken, and read the whole recipe very carefully
before beginning.)
In selecting poultry to bone, choose those at least a
year and a half old, with a smooth, perfect skin, and dry
picked.
POULTRY AND GAME 195
GALANTINE OF TURKEY
Select a nice fat hen turkey weighing about twelve pounds.
Singe, but do not draw. Bone as 'directed. (See Boned
Chicken). Turn the legs and wings inside out, and draw
them inside of the turkey. Now bone a chicken, turn the
legs and wings in the same way, dredge both with salt and
pepper. Place the chicken inside the turkey, with the
rump of the chicken toward the neck of the turkey so that
the white meat will not all be in the same place. Mix one
pound of sausage meat or lean ham with one cup of bread
crumbs and two well-beaten eggs. Form into a roll the
shape of the turkey carcass, place it inside the chicken,
draw the skin of the turkey together, and sew it up. Then
press and roll with the hands until the galantine is an even
roll. Tie at the extremities, and also across in two places.
Now wrap tightly in a cloth, and tie as before. Put into a
soup-kettle the bones from the turkey and chicken, one
onion, one carrot sliced, six whole cloves, two bay leaves,
a large sprig of parsley and three quarts of cold water,
stand it over a moderate fire and bring slowly to a boil;
skim, put in the galantine, and simmer gently for four
hours. At the end of that time take the kettle from the
fire and let the galantine cool in the liquor, then take it out
and place on a flat dish ; put a meat board on top of it,
and two flat irons on top of the board, and stand away over
night. In the morning remove the cloth carefully, brush
the galantine over with a beaten egg, dust with bread
crumbs and parsley chopped very fine, place in a very hot
oven to brown, then stand away until very cold. This can
be garnished with aspic jelly, or a jelly made from the
bones, same as Boned Chicken. It is to be sliced thin
when eaten, helping a small portion of the jelly with each
slice.
196 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
A CAPONED TURKEY
A caponed turkey may be prepared as Caponed Chicken,
or roasted according to the preceding recipes. It is more
tender, larger, and decidedly better flavored than other
turkeys, and consequently commands very high prices.
DUCKS
Ducks, to be good, must be young and fat, the lower part
of the legs and the webbing of the feet soft, the under bill,
if the duck is young, will break easily. The breast should
be plump and fat.
ROAST DUCKS
Draw and singe the same as chicken. Wipe inside and out
with a damp towel. Make a stuffing from
cup of bread crumbs
t^poonful of powdered sage
boiled onion, mashed fine
large tablespoonful of butter
teaspoonful of salt
% teaspoonful of pepper
Mix the whole well, and fill the space from which the crop
was taken and the body of the duck, sew and truss them
the same as a chicken. Place in a baking-pan, cover the
breast with a thin slice of bacon, add a half-cup of water
and a half- teaspoonful of salt to the pan, and bake in a
quick oven (if a full-grown duck) one and a quarter hours,
basting every ten minutes. Serve with a sauce made from
the giblets same as Roast Chicken. If ducklings, roast
only forty-five minutes.
Green peas and apple sauce should be served with roast
duck.
Ducks may also be stuffed with potato stuffing. (See
recipe for Potato Stuffing.)
POULTRY AND GAME 197
ROAST DUCKLINGS
Draw, singe and clean the same as a chicken. Tuck the
wings back, and fasten the legs down to the side of the
body with a small skewer, or they may be sewed with a
trussing-needle and twine. Put a piece of butter the size
of a walnut in each duck, place them in a baking-pan, add
a half-cup of water and a half-teaspoon ful of salt to the
pan, and bake in a quick oven forty-five minutes, basting
every ten minutes. When done, dish, serve with giblet
sauce, same as Roast Chicken.
Green peas, cranberry sauce or currant jelly should
accompany this dish.
RAGOUT OF DUCK
1 pair of ducks 2 tablespoon fu Is of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of flour i tablespoonful of onion
i tablespoonful of mushroom juice
catsup i teaspoon ful of lemon
i bay leaf juice
i pint of stock or boiling ^ gill of sherry, if you use
water wine
4 or 5 mushrooms may be added, if liked
Draw, clean, and singe the ducks the same as chicken.
Place them in a baking-pan, put a thin slice of bacon over
the breast, add a half-cup of water to the pan, and bake in
a quick oven three-quarters of an hour, if tame ducks; if
wild ones, bake only thirty minutes. Now take from the
fire and carve them, making eight pieces of each duck the
wings, legs and second joints together, two pieces of the
breast, and two of the back. Now put the butter in a
saucepan, and stir until a dark brown; then add the flour,
mix until smooth; add the stock or boiling water; stir con-
tinually until it boils, then add the onion juice, catsup,
lemon juice, bay leaf, salt and pepper to taste, and the
mushrooms chopped fine ; now add the ducks and all the
198 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
gravy from the dish on which you carved them ; cover and
simmer gently twenty minutes, if tame; ten minutes, if wild.
Take from the fire, add the wine, and serve on a heated
dish with a border of toasted bread cut into triangles.
Arrange them around the dish with the points toward the
outer edge, forming a pointed border. They should be cut
before toasting.
SALMI OF DUCK
Prepare the same as for Ragout of Duck, adding one dozen
olives five minutes before serving time.
TO PREPARE THE OLIVES
Stone the olives by cutting around and around, keeping
close to the stone in the same manner as you pare an apple,
and throw the stone away. Put the olives in boiling water
and soak ten minutes, then put them in cold water until
wanted.
GEESE AND GOSLINGS
As geese live to a great age, care should be taken in select-
ing. They are not good when over three years old. A
young goose has down on its legs, and the legs are soft and
yellow; like a turkey, as it grows older, the legs change to
a reddish color.
ROAST GOOSE
Draw, clean, and singe the goose the same as a chicken.
Wipe it inside and out with a damp towel. Fill with Potato
or Onion Stuffing (see recipe for same). Sew it up and
truss, being careful not to fill it too full, as dressing always-
swells while cooking. Place it in a baking-pan, put a cup
of water and a teaspoonful of salt in the pan, and place in
a quick oven. Roast twenty-five minutes to every pound,
POULTRY AND GAME m 199
basting every ten minutes; after the goose has been roasting
one hour, cool the oven, and roast the remainder of the
time at a moderate heat. Serve with giblet sauce made the
same as for Roast Chicken.
Apple sauce should always be served with roast goose.
Goslings may be roasted in the same manner, allow-
ing fifteen minutes to every pound.
GOOSE STUFFED WITH SAUERKRAUT
Draw and singe the goose as directed. Wipe it inside and
out with a damp towel, and fill with sauerkraut. Sew it up,
tie into shape, and place it in a large kettle, cover it
with about two quarts of sauerkraut, cover the whole with
boiling water and simmer gently for three hours. At the
end of this time take out the goose, place it in a baking-
pan, baste it with melted butter, dredge the breast .thickly
with flour, put it in a quick oven until a nice brown (about
one hour). Serve in a bed of the boiled sauerkraut.
GUINEA FOWLS
A young guinea fowl makes a most delicious fricassee.
Draw, singe, and cut up the same as Fricassee of Chicken.
Put a quarter-pound of sliced bacon into a stewing-pan ;
when brown, add the guinea fowl, and stir over the fire until
every piece is a golden brown. Now add to every pair of
guinea fowls two tablespoon fuls of flour ; stir until thor-
oughly mixed ; then add one pint of boiling water, a tea-
spoonful of salt, three or four dashes of black pepper. Stir
continually until it boils. Cover, and simmer gently about
one and a half hours, or until the fowls are tender when
pierced with a fork. When done, taste to see if properly
seasoned ; if not, add more salt and pepper, and serve.
Potato croquettes are a nice accompaniment to this
dish.
200 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
GUINEA POT-PIE
Make precisely the same as Chicken Pot-pie, using two
guineas instead of one chicken.
PEA FOWLS
Draw and singe the same as chicken, and cook according
to any of the recipes given for cooking turkey.
PIGEONS
POTTED PIGEONS
^ dozen pigeons i pint of stock or water
% pound of salt pork i bay leaf
i tablespoonful of flour i onion
i tablespoonful of mush- i sprig of parsley
room catsup i teaspoon ful of salt
A little black pepper
Clean and wash the pigeons ; fill same as a roast chicken,
and truss. Put the pork in a frying-pan and try out all the
fat. Roll the pigeons in flour and brown them in the hot
fat. When they are nicely browned, put them in a stewing-
pan, add the flour to the fat remaining in the frying-pan,
stir until a nice brown, add the stock or water, stir again
until it boils, add the salt, pepper, catsup, bay leaf, onion
sliced, parsley, salt, and pepper. Pour this over the
pigeons, cover the stewing-pan, and simmer gently two
hours. When done, remove the strings, strain the gravy
over and around the pigeons. Serve with boiled rice in a
separate dish.
ROAST PIGEONS
Draw, singe, and stuff the same as a chicken. Place them
in a baking-pan ; put a half-cup of water and a teaspoonful
of salt in the pan ; place in a quick oven, and bake one
hour, basting at first with melted butter, afterwards with
their own gravy. When done, dish in a row on a large
POULTRY AND GAME 201
meat plate. Add one tablespoonful of butter to the pan,
and brown ; then add a tablespoonful of flour and mix
well ; now add a half-pint of boiling water. Stir continu-
ally until it boils, season with salt and pepper to taste.
Serve in a boat.
BROILED SQUABS
Clean and singe same as a chicken. Split them down the
back, flatten them with a rolling-pin, and wipe carefully,
inside and out, with a damp towel. Broil the same as
spring chickens.
They may be roasted whole, without stuffing, the same
as woodcock.
SALMI OF SQUAB
6 squabs i bay leaf
slice of onion i tablespoonful of mushroom
pint of stock catsup
tablespoonful of Wor- i tablespoonful of butter
cestershire sauce 5 mushrooms
tablespoonful of flour i tablespoonful of sherry, if
thin slice of carrot you use wine
Salt and pepper to taste
Clean the squabs and truss them. Put the butter in a fry-
ing-pan ; and when hot, brown the squabs. Take them out
and put them in a saucepan, add the onion, carrot, and
bay leaf. Add the flour to the butter in the frying-pan
mix well, and then add the stock, stir constantly until it
boils, pour it over the squabs, cover them, and simmer until
tender (about thirty minutes). When done, dish the squabs
in the centre of a meat plate. Add to the sauce the mush-
room catsup, Worcestershire sauce, and the mushrooms
chopped fine, salt and pepper, and simmer for ten minutes;
take from the fire and add the wine, strain it over the
squabs, and serve.
202 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
BAKED SQUABS
6 squabs 2 tablespoonfuls of butter
i gill of stock % pound of bacon
Salt and pepper to taste
Clean and truss the birds. Rub the breasts with a piece
of onion. Divide the butter into six equal parts, put one
part into each squab, and with it one cranberry. Now put
them into a baking-pan, cut the bacon in thin slices, put
one slice over the breast of each bird, add the stock, salt
and pepper, and bake in a very quick oven (420 Fahr.)
for three-quarters of an hour, basting every ten minutes.
Put the livers and hearts in a stewing-pan to boil at
thcTsame time you put the birds in the oven. Serve the
squabs on buttered toast with the following sauce poured
around them.
Remove the bacon from the pan, then put into it one
tablespoonful of butter, and brown, add one tablespoonful
of flour, and the livers and hearts mashed fine. Mix all
well together, add a half-pint of stock, stir constantly until
it boils, add salt and pepper.
Serve green peas as an accompaniment to this dish.
GAME
In winter game may be kept two weeks without spoiling or
iosing one particle of its natural flavor, if it has not been
packed and shipped. As our Eastern cities are supplied
from the Western States, it is necessary that they should be
packed for shipment, which causes fermentation, even if
the weather is very cold.
TO KEEP BIRDS FRESH
Do not pick them, but make a small opening under the
rump just large enough to take out the entrails, which do
POULTRY AND GAME 203
as carefully as possible, without breaking the gall. If you
should be so unfortunate as to break it, pick the bird, wash
it, and use immediately; it will not keep. Birds may be
hung up by the feet in a cold, dry place for one or two
weeks, until the feathers come out easily.
VENISON
Venison, like mutton, should be well hung in a cold, dry
place, in winter, at least two weeks ; in warmer weather,
one week. The meat should be of fine grain and nicely
covered with fat. If the venison is young, the hoof will
be but slightly opened; if old, wide open.
HAUNCH OF VENISON ROASTED
Wipe the venison well with a towel dipped in warm water.
Leave the hoof and four or five inches of skin or hair on the
lower part of the leg. Lard the haunch thickly with salt
pork. If you have no larding-needle, make slight incisions
with a small knife, about an inch and a half apart, and put
a small piece of salt pork in each incision. It may be
roasted without larding, but as the meat is naturally dry, it
is certainly a great improvement. Fold a piece of coarse
muslin into three or four thicknesses, wide enough to cover
the hoof and hair. Dip this in cold water, and bind it
around the hoof and hair, tie, envelop this in several thick-
nesses of buttered letter paper, and tie tightly. This is to
prevent the hair and hoof from changing color. If your
haunch is large, the cloth may require a second or third
wetting. Now place it before a brisk fire, or in a very hot
oven, and roast fifteen minutes to every pound, basting
every ten minutes at first with melted butter, and afterwards
with its own drippings. When half done, season with a
204 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
teaspoonful of salt and a few dashes of black pepper. When
done, unwrap the hoof, and dish. Add two tablespoonfuls
of flour to the fat in the pan in which it was roasted, stir
until brown, add one pint of good stock, stir constantly
until it boils ; take from the fire, add one tablespoonful of
currant jelly and one of sherry, season with salt and pepper
to taste. Serve in a boat. Currant jelly and water-cress
should accompany this dish.
SADDLE OF VENISON ROASTED
Saddle and shoulder may be roasted the same as the haunch.
As they cannot so well be larded, cover them with several
thicknesses of buttered paper while roasting, to prevent the
juices from drying out.
VENISON STEAKS BROILED
Steaks are usually cut from the leg or haunch. As it
requires but a very short time to broil them, and they are
not good unless very hot, see that everything and every-
body is ready before broiling. Now put the dish in which
they are to be served over a kettle of boiling water to heat \
put in it a piece of butter the size of a walnut, a quarter-
teaspoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls of port wine, and a
tablespoonful of currant jelly. Grease the bars of the grid-
iron with suet, lay the steaks on it, and broil over a clear,
hot fire, turning almost constantly. If your steaks are a
half-inch thick, eight minutes will broil them. Put them
in the heated dish, and turn them in the mixture once or
twice. Serve immediately on heated plates. The quanti-
ties given are for two steaks.
Vension steaks may also be broiled and served the
same as beefsteaks, with a simple dressing of salt, pepper
and butter.
POULTRY AND GAME 205
VENISON CUTLETS
Trim the cutlets nicely. Put them in an earthen vessel,
and cover with a marinade made as follows: To every
pound of venison allow four tablespoonfuls of vinegar, four
of claret, two bay leaves, one small onion sliced, sprig of
parsley, four whole cloves, and a blade of mace ; mix, and
put into a porcelain kettle, stand over a brisk fire, give one
boil and pour over the cutlets. Let stand until next day,
turning them three or four times. Next day wipe and lard
them, and broil over a quick fire. Serve with the same
sauce as Vension Steaks.
These may also be broiled and served with brown sauce.
RAGOUT OF VENISON
Ragout of venison may be made the same as Ragout of Beef,
using venison instead of beef, adding one gill of port wine
and one tablespoon ful of currant jelly to the sauce after
you take it from the fire.
SOUR STEW
This can be made from the bones and meat, after the steaks,
haunch, etc., have been taken off. Cut two pounds of
meat into pieces about an inch square. Put a quarter-
pound of sliced bacon in a frying-pan, and try out all the
fat. Dredge the meat thickly with flour, and brown it in
the bacon fat. Take it out with a skimmer and put it in a
stewpan. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour to the fat in
which the meat was browned, mix well, and brown ; add
one pint of boiling water, stir constantly until it boils, and
pour it over the meat. Cover it, and let simmer gently
one hour. Now add one small onion sliced, one bay leaf,
one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a thin paring of
206 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
lemon peel, a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoon ful of Wor-
cestershire sauce, and let simmer one hour longer. Take
from the fire, add a tablespoon ful of vinegar, and serve.
VENISON IN A CHAFING-DISH
Put a piece of butter, the size of a walnut, in your chafing-
dish ; and, when hot, put in the steak. When brown on one
side, turn and brown on the other, and add a quarter-
teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of currant jelly, two
tablespoon fuls of sherry, and a little black pepper. Cover
the dish ; let all heat together about two minutes, and serve.
TO CURE VENISON HAMS
These may be cured exactly the same as ordinary pork
hams. They are usually eaten chipped, but they are deli-
cious frizzled the same as dried beef.
BUFFALO STEAKS
Buffalo steaks are broiled precisely the same as beefsteak,
seasoning only with butter, salt, and pepper.
Buffalo meat may also be roasted or stewed.
BEAR MEAT
Bear meat is best roasted. It may be treated the same as
pork, cooking twenty minutes to every pound.
BEAR STEAKS
Bear steaks may be cooked in a chafing-dish, the same as
venison steaks, omitting the currant jelly.
POULTRY AND GAME 207
RABBITS OR HARES
TO SELECT
The body should be rather stiff, free from any unpleasant
odor, and the flesh of a reddish appearance. If young, it
will have soft paws and ears; if old, the ears will be stiff
and the edges rough, the paws hard and worn.
Tame rabbits, as a rule, are not fit to use.
FRICASSEE OF RABBIT
Skin the rabbit ; singe it. Remove the entrails, if it has
not been previously cleaned. Wipe it well inside and out
with a wet cloth, then dry. Do not wash or soak, as the
blood of the rabbit is a great improvement to the flavor.
Cut it first down the back, splitting it into halves ; then
cut each half into four pieces. P'inish precisely the same
as Fricassee of Chicken, either brown or white.
BROILED RABBIT
The rabbit must be very young and tender for this purpose.
Clean as directed in preceding recipe. Cut into halves only,
and broil the same as a spring chicken. Serve on a hot
dish ; dredge with pepper and salt, and butter liberally.
PANNED RABBIT
Clean and cut into halves as directed. Place in a baking-
pan, spread lavishly with butter, dust with salt and pepper,
and bake in a quick oven one hour, basting every ten min-
utes. When done, lay on a heated dish. Add one table-
spoonful of flour to the fat in the pan ; mix well \ add a
half-pint of boiling water, stir until it boils, add salt and
pepper to taste, pour it over and around the rabbit, and it
is ready to serve.
208 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
RABBIT PIE
Make the same as Chicken Pie, using two rabbits instead
of one chicken.
The English hares may be cooked the same as our
common wild rabbits.
SQUIRRELS
Squirrels may be fricasseed, broiled, and panned precisely
the same as rabbits.
RACCOONS, SKUNKS AND OPOSSUMS
These are eaten by many people, but as I have had no ex-
perience in cooking the above animals, I will merely state
that they may be cooked in all the ways that rabbits are,
and served the same.
WILD TURKEY
Draw and singe the same as a chicken. Wipe inside and
out carefully with a damp towel. Make a stuffing from
two cups of stale bread, a quarter-pound of salt pork
chopped fine, a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter-tea-
spoonful of pepper, mixed well together. Stuff the space
from which the crop was taken, allowing room for the
filling to swell, then put the remainder in the body of the
bird. Truss. Place in a baking-pan, cover the breast with
thin slices of fat pork, put a half-cup of water in the pan,
and bake in a quick oven fifteen minutes to every pound.
After one hour, cool the oven slightly, put a teaspoonful of
salt in the pan, and baste with melted butter every ten min-
utes at first, afterwards with its own gravy. Serve with
giblet sauce, the same as tame turkey. Cranberry sauce
should always accompany this dish.
POULTRY AND GAME 209
WILD DUCKS
Wild ducks may be selected the same as tame ones. Can-
vas-backs and redheads are considered best, but the blue-
winged teal, black duck, widgeon and wood duck are all
good.
TO ROAST WILD DUCK
Pick, draw, and singe the same as chicken. Wipe them
inside and out with a damp towel. Do not wash them
unless you break the gall or intestines, as it greatly destroys
the flavor. If they have a fishy odor, rub the breast lightly
with a piece of onion, and put three or four cranberries
(uncooked) in the duck before cooking it. Tuck back the
wings and truss the legs down close to the body. Put the
cranberries and a piece of butter the size of a walnut in
each duck. Place them in a baking-pan, add one tea-
spoonful of salt and a quarter-cup of boiling water to the
the pan, baste them well with melted butter, put them into
a very hot oven, and bake forty-five minutes, if wanted
rare ; one hour, if well done ; basting with their own gravy
every five minutes. When done, serve with the gravy from
the pan poured over them. Wild ducks are much better
when not stuffed ; but if stuffing is preferred, potato is
best. (See recipe for Potato Stuffing.)
Serve currant jelly and green peas with them.
SALMI OF WILD DUCK
Proceed in the same manner as for Salmi of Tame Duck,
and it is most delicious.
RAGOUT OF WILD DUCK
A whole duck, or the remains from yesterday's dinner, may
be used for this dish. (See recipe for Ragout of Duck.)
210 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
WILD GOOSE
A wild goose may be selected and cooked precisely the
same as a wild duck.
WILD PIGEONS
Wild pigeons may be prepared and cooked the same as
tame ones. Roasted or baked, they make a very nice gar-
nish for a wild turkey. After the turkey is dished, arrange
six or eight pigeons around it ; fill the vacant spaces with
curly parsley.
This makes a very sightly dish.
PIGEON PIE
Pick and clean four wild pigeons, the same as chicken. Cut
them into halves, put them into a baking-pan, baste with
melted butter, and bake in a quick oven for forty-five min-
utes, basting with melted butter, salt and pepper every ten
minutes, using in all about two tablespoonfuls of butter, a
half-teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper. At the end
of this time, take them out. Line a two-quart tin basin
or a raised pie-mould with plain butter paste. Have ready
one pound of ham cut into dice, six hard-boiled eggs sliced.
Put a layer of pigeons in the bottom, then ham, then eggs,
then salt, pepper, and a few bits of butter, then pigeon,
and so on, until all is used. Cover with a thick sheet of
paste ; make a hole in the centre, and ornament with some
leaves and flowers cut out of the paste trimmings. Bake in
a quick oven for thirty minutes, or until the paste is done.
Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in the pan in which they
were roasted, stir it over the fire until a nice brown, then
add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and mix until smooth ;
add orife pint of boiling water, salt and pepper to taste ;
POULTRY AND GAME 211
stir continually until it boils ; take from the fire, add the
beaten yolk of one egg, and pour into the pie through a
funnel, placed in the hole in the centre of top crust, and
it is ready to serve. It is most delicious.
Tame pigeons may be used, but are not as good as the
wild ones.
PIGEONS LARDED AND BROILED
Pick the pigeons, cut off the head and feet, then split the
birds down the back and take out the entrails ; wipe them
well inside and out with a wet towel, and dry them. Lard
the breast with lardoons (small strips of fat pork), using a
very fine needle. Dust the birds with salt and pepper, place
them on a broiler, and broil over a moderate fire for three-
quarters of an hour, turning frequently. Place on squares
of hot buttered toast, baste with melted butter, and serve.
Squabs may be cooked in the same way, and served
on a bed of green peas.
OTHER GAME BIRDS
TO ROAST PARTRIDGES, PHEASANTS, QUAIL,
GROUSE, OR PRAIRIE FOWLS
Pick and draw the birds the same as chicken. Wipe them
carefully, inside and out, with a wet towel ; then dry them.
Do not wash unless you wish to spoil them. Now tuck the
wings back, and fasten the legs up to the sides of the body
with a small skewer, so that when the bird is on its back
the legs stand up, not down toward the rump, as you truss
a chicken. Lard them thickly over the breast (this may
be omitted, but they are not so good), place them in a
baking-pan or before a good fire, baste with melted butter
at first and afterwards with their own gravy ; dredge with
212 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
salt and pepper when half done. Roast three-quarters of
an hour, if liked rare \ if well done, one hour. Serve on
squares of toast, with the gravy in the pan poured around
them. Garnish with parsley.
TO BROIL PHEASANTS, PARTRIDGES, QUAIL,
GROUSE, OR PRAIRIE FOWLS
Split them down the back, lard the breasts, and broil the
same as pigeons.
Serve currant jelly with them.
TO ROAST WOODCOCKS, SNIPES, OR PLOVERS
Many prefer these birds not drawn ; that is, the crop only
is taken out through a small slit in the skin on the back of
the neck, while all the entrails are allowed to remain in the
bird. Of course, every one to his own taste ; but we pre-
fer and recommend that they should be drawn, but not
washed, as it certainly does spoil game or poultry to put
them in water. Wipe them, inside and out, with a damp
towel, and then dry on a clean one.
For those who like the trail, as it is called, we will
give the following recipe :
Pick the birds, singe, and take out the crop as directed.
Cut the wings off at the second joint that is, the second
from the tip. Scald the legs and peel the skin off the feet
and lower part of legs ; pick the necks all the way up to
the head ; then singe, fold the legs close to the body, and
rnn the bill of the bird through both legs and the body.
Cover the breast with thin slices of bacon and fasten with
twine. Now place the birds in a baking-pan with a square
of toasted bread under each bird to catch the trail ; put
them in a hot oven or before a good fire. Roast thirty-five
minutes, basting every five minutes, the first time with
POULTRY AND GAME 213
melted butter and afterwards with the gravy in the pan.
Remove the bacon five minutes before the birds are done,
baste them with melted butter, dust with salt and pepper,
and put back to brown. Serve on a heated dish with the
squares of toast under them. Garnish with parsley and a
spoonful of currant jelly.
We will say to those who, like ourselves, prefer them
drawn, proceed as directed above, only draw the bird and
wipe it inside and out.
TO ROAST RAIL AND REED BIRDS
Pick, draw, and singe the birds. Cut off the ends of the
wings and the feet. Leave the heads on. Wipe the birds,
inside and out, and wrap each in a thin slice of bacon.
Take a skewer long enough to hold six birds, run the skewer
through the bacon and the bodies of the birds, fasten them
on the spit and roast before a clear fire fifteen minutes,
basting almost constantly with their own dripping.
Serve each bird on a square of toast garnished with parsley
of course, removing the skewer and bacon.
Or, wrap the birds in bacon and tie with twine, place
them in rows in a baking-pan, and bake in a quick oven
fifteen minutes, basting three or four times with their own
dripping. When done, remove the bacon and strings,
serve on squares of buttered toast with the gravy from the
pan poured around them. Garnish with parsley.
All small birds, such as meadow larks, robins, black-
birds and sparrows, may be cooked in the same manner.
BLACKBIRD PIE
Blackbird pie may be made the same as Pigeon Pie, using
one dozen blackbirds instead of four pigeons.
214 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
GAME PIE
For this any of the birds mentioned in the preceding
recipes may be used. We will use partridges. Bone the
partridges according to the directions for boning chicken.
Then cut them in halves. Cut one dozen mushrooms or
truffles into thin slices. Cut one pound of ham into dice.
Cut six hard-boiled eggs into slices. Chop some parsley
very fine. Have ready one batch of puff paste and half
the quantity given in recipe of Suet Paste (see recipe for
Suet Paste). Roll half the puff paste down to the thickness
of one-third of an inch. Grease a French pie-mould and
line it carefully with this sheet of paste. With a sharp
knife cut the paste even with the top of the mould. Roll
the suet paste down to the thickness of a quarter of an
inch, and cut it into pieces one inch square. Now put a
layer of birds in the bottom of the mould, then a sprink-
ling of ham, salt, pepper, parsley, hard-boiled eggs, and
squares of the suet paste, a few bits of butter here and
there ; now another layer of birds, and so on until all the
materials are used. Now roll out for the top crust the
remainder of the puff paste, wet the edges of the under-
crust with cold water, put the paste for the cover on the
pie, and press it gently with the thumb to cement the two
edges together, and with a sharp knife cut off the upper
paste even with the mould. Make a hole in the middle of
the top crust. Roll out these trimmings of the paste and
cut into leaf-shaped pieces, form and pinch them together
in the shape of a flower, and place in the hole of the upper
crust. Brush the cover of the pie with beaten egg, and
bake in a moderately quick oven (about 400 Fahr.) for
two hours. While the pie is baking, take the bones, hearts
and livers of the birds, put them in a saucepan and cover
with a quart of cold water ; add a slice of onion and a bay
POULTRY AND GAME 215
leaf, and simmer gently until the pie is done ; then strain.
Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan and stir
until a dark brown ; then add two tablespoonfuls of flour;
mix until smooth ; add one pint of the stock from bones
and liver, and stir constantly until it boils ; add six mush-
rooms, chopped very fine ; season with salt and pepper to
taste ; take from the fire, add the well-beaten yolks of two
eggs, and, if you use wine, one tablespoonful of sherry.
Pour the sauce in the pie through a funnel placed in the
hole on the top, being careful not to break the flower. Lift
the pie carefully on to a heated dish, remove the mould,
and serve.
Or, omit the sauce and allow the pie to cool. When
cold, garnish with aspic jelly cut into fancy shapes, and
put on the dish and around the top of the pie.
216 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
ADDITIONAL RECIPES 217
218 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
FORCEMEATS AND STUFFINGS
HAM FORCEMEAT
i pint of cold cooked i tablespoonful of chopped
ham, chopped fine parsley
i pint of milk ^ teaspoonful of salt
YZ pint of stale bread ^ teaspoonful of cayenne
crumbs i teaspoonful of French
Yolks of three eggs mustard
Put the milk on to boil, add the bread crumbs, and stir
until it thickens, then add the yolks of the eggs; take from
the fire and add all the other ingredients, mix, stand away
to cool, and it is ready to use.
This may be used as stuffing for game or meats, or
made into small balls, dipped in egg and bread crumbs,
fried in boiling fat, and used to garnish made meat dishes.
CHICKEN FORCEMEAT
i four-pound chicken i tablespoonful of chopped
i pint of milk parsley
Yolks of three eggs i teaspoonful of salt
i cup of bread crumbs ^ teaspoonful of cayenne
i^ teaspoonful of grated nutmeg
Clean and draw the chicken as directed. Take the meat
from the bones and chop very fine. (The bones and skin
may be used for soup or stock.) Put the milk on to boil,
(219)
220 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
add to it the bread crumbs, stir until it thickens, add the
yolks of the eggs well beaten ; take from the fire and add
all the other ingredients, mix, and stand away to cool. Use
the same as Ham Forcemeat.
BREAD STUFFING
1 pint of stale bread crumbs
2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter
i teaspoonful of salt
^ teaspoonful of black pepper
i tablespoon ful of chopped parsley
i teaspoonful of sweet marjoram
Mix the bread, salt, pepper, parsley and sweet marjoram
together, then moisten with the melted butter, and it is
ready to use.
SAGE STUFFING
Make same as preceding recipe, adding two teaspoonfuls of
powdered sage.
ONION STUFFING
This may be made the same as Bread Stuffing, omitting the
sweet marjoram, and adding two large tablespoonfuls of
chopped onion.
POTATO STUFFING
2 cups of mashed potatoes Yolks of two eggs
(hot) i teaspoonful of salt
i teaspoonful of onion juice i tablespoonful of chopped
4 tablespoonfuls of cream parsley
^ teaspoonful of black pepper i tablespoonful of butter
Mix the whole together and beat well. This stuffing is nice
for ducks or geese.
MEAT AND FISH SAUCES
AND GRAVIES
Once a week in winter and twice a week in summer you
should make your gravy and sauce stock; and for this
you should save every bone, cooked or uncooked, of beef,
mutton, veal, ham, poultry and game, the green tops of
celery and all juices left in the bottom of the dish from
steaks or roasts. Keep them in a stone jar in a cold place
until wanted. An economical housekeeper has always on
hand a good supply of this stock without the outlay of a
single cent. It should be made on ironing or baking day,
thereby saving the use of any extra fuel. This stock could
be used for soups, but is never perfectly clear and is not
so nutritious as stock made from the shin of beef.
The preparation of sauces and gravies is of the greatest
importance, and in nothing does the talent of a cook more
display itself. All ingredients used should harmonize and
blend perfectly, and you must bear in mind that water is
no substitute for stock. Many cooks fail in the thickening
of sauces. The butter and flour should be well rubbed and
cooked together before adding the liquid to prevent the
sauce from having a floury, uncooked taste. The Drawn
Butter sauce, simple as it is, is seldom properly prepared.
(221)
222 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
The common practice of wetting the flour and then stir-
ring it into the gravy is objectionable, as in this way the
flour does not hold the fat in suspension, and it therefore
invariably floats.
All sauces must be stirred continually while on the fire,
and seasoned carefully, so that each sauce may have its own
individual flavor.
Spare the cayenne ; remember it destroys every other
flavor as well as your own taste.
"For palates grown callous almost to disease^
Who peppers the highest is surest to please"
Goldsmith.
STOCK FOR SAUCES AND GRAVIES
Place in a soup kettle all the fresh bones taken from
your roasts and steaks, cooked or uncooked, bones of mut-
ton, lamb, veal, beef or poultry ; also, the trimmings of
same if fresh, allowing one quart of cold water to every
pound of bones and meat. Boil and skim same as Soup
Stock -, add the same vegetables and seasoning.
This stock is excellent for sauces and gravies in the
place of water, but does not make a good soup stock.
ALLEMANDE SAUCE
i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour
6 mushrooms, chopped fine j4 pi nt of white stock
Yolks of three eggs ^ teaspoon ful of grated
YZ teaspoon ful of onion juice nutmeg
% teaspoonful of white pepper ^ teaspoonful of salt
Melt the butter, but do not brown it; then add the flour,
mix well ; add the stock, stir continually until it boils ; add
the mushrooms, simmer one minute. Take from the fire,
add the beaten yolks, salt, pepper, nutmeg and onion juice.
This is a nice sauce for boiled or baked fish. Do not boil
after adding the eggs.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES 223
ANCHOVY SAUCE
Make a Mattre d' Hotel Sauce, then add to it three table-
spoonfuls of anchovy paste.
The paste may be purchased from your grocer in bot-
tles ready for use.
This is a nice sauce for fried fish
APPLE SAUCE
6 tart apples ^ cup of water
Sugar and nutmeg to taste
Pare, core and slice the apples, put them in a porcelain
kettle with the water, cook and stir until soft (about ten
minutes); then mash them through a sieve, or, better, a
" Hen is Vegetable Press," add butter the size of a walnut,
sugar, and nutmeg, mix well, and it is ready to use.
This should accompany all pork dishes.
BEARNAISE SAUCE
Yolks of four eggs 4 tablespoon fuls of olive oil
Dash of cayenne ^ teaspoonful of salt
4 tablespoon fuls of hot water
i tablespoon ful of tarragon vinegar
Beat the yolks until creamy, add the water and oil, stand
the bowl in a pan of boiling water, and stir until the eggs
thicken. Take from the fire and add the vinegar, salt and
pepper; mix well, and stand away to cool.
This is most delicious, and may be served with a
broiled steak, smelts, or lobster chops.
BECHAMEL SAUCE
i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour
1 gill of stock i gill of cream
2 dashes of pepper Yolk of one egg
T/2 teaspoonful of salt
Melt the butter without browning, then add the flour, mix
224 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
X
until smooth; add the stock and cream, stir continually un-
til it boils; take from the fire, add the salt, pepper, and
the yolk of the egg well beaten.
This sauce is especially nice for sweetbreads, chickens,
cutlets, and baked or boiled fish.
BREAD SAUCE
i pint of milk ^ pint of bread crumbs
1 tablespoonful of onion juice, i blade of mace
or one small onion i bay leaf
2 tablespoonfuls of butter Salt and pepper to taste
Put the bread and milk in a farina boiler, add the onion,
mace, and bay leaf, cook five minutes ; then press through
a sieve, return to the fire, add the butter, salt and pepper
to taste, and it is ready to use.
BROWN SAUCE No. i
i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour
y<2, pint of stock ^ teaspoonful of onion juice
y 2 teaspoonful of salt
Y% teaspoonful of white or black pepper
Melt the butter, stir until a dark brown, add the flour, mix
well; add the stock, and stir continually until it boils; add
onion juice, salt and pepper, and it is ready to use.
BROWN SAUCE No. 2
i large tablespoonful of i even tablespoonful of flour
butter y 2 pint of boiling water
i small onion i small carrot
i bay leaf i blade of mace
i sprig of parsley i tablespoon ful of Worcester-
i tablespoonful of mush- shire sauce
room catsup i tablespoonful of sherry, if
y> teaspoonful of salt you use wine
y& teaspoonful of pepper
Melt and stir the butter over the fire until a dark brown,
SAUCES AND GRAVIES 225
then add the flour, and mix smooth ; add the boiling water,
stir continually until it boils; add the onion, carrot, bay
leaf, mace, and parsley. Simmer very gently for fifteen
minutes, then strain, add the salt, Worcestershire sauce,
mushroom catsup, and pepper; stir until thoroughly mixed,
and it is ready to use. This is nice for beefsteak or
warmed-over meats.
BROWN SAUCE No. 3
^ pound of bacon i tablespoonful of mushroom
i tablespoonful of flour catsup
i tablespoonful of Worces- i tablespoonful of sherry, if
tershire sauce you use wine
]/2 pint of stock Salt and pepper to taste
Slice the bacon, put it in a frying-pan and try out all the
fat. Take out the bacon, add the flour, stir until smooth;
add the stock, stir continually until it boils; add the Wor-
cestershire sauce, mushroom catsup, salt and pepper; take
from the fire, and add the wine.
CAPER SAUCE
Make a Drawn Butter, according to the recipe given, add
to it one large tablespoonful of capers.
This is nice served with boiled mutton or fish.
CELERY SAUCE
5 roots of celery i pint of cold water
i even tablespoonful of flour i gill of milk
i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste
Clean the celery, cut it into small pieces, put it in a sauce-
pan, add the water, cover the saucepan, and stew slowly
for half an hour, then press it through a colander. Put the
butter in a frying-pan ; when melted, add the flour, mix ;
add the milk and celery, stir continually until it boils; add
salt and pepper, and it i ready to use.
This sauce is usually served with boiled poultry.
226 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
CHAMPAGNE SAUCE
Make Brown Sauce No. i, omitting the onion juice; take
from the fire, add one gill of champagne.
This is suitable for game. It may be varied by adding
one gill of port wine instead of champagne.
CHESTNUT SAUCE
i pint of the large chestnuts i large tablespoonful of
i pint of stock butter
i tablespoonful of flour Salt and pepper to taste
Roast the chestnuts; when done, peel them, mash fine.
Melt the butter and stir until a dark brown, then add the
flour, mix well ; add the stock and chestnuts, stir continually
until it boils; add the salt and pepper.
This is especially nice for roasted poultry.
CRANBERRY SAUCE
i quart of cranberries i pint of water
i pound of sugar
Wash the cranberries in cold water, put them in a por-
celain-lined kettle with one pint of water, and boil rapidly
ten minutes, or until the berries pop; then press them
through a colander, return them to the kettle, add the
sugar, and stir over the fire until the sugar is thoroughly
melted (this will take about two minutes); turn out to cool.
Serve with poultry, game, venison, or mutton.
CREAM SAUCE
i tablespoonful of flour i tablespoonful of butter
^ pint of cream or milk ^ teaspoon ful of salt
2- dashes of pepper
Melt the butter, being careful not to brown it; add the
flour, mix until smooth ; then add the cream or milk, stir
continually until it boils; add sak and pepper, and use at
once. If you are not quite ready to use it, stand it over
SAUCES AND GRAVIES 227
boiling water to keep warm, stirring frequently to prevent
a crust from forming on the top.
This sauce may be used with lobster chops, sweetbreads,
chicken chops, and other similar dishes.
CREAM SAUCE WITH MUSHROOMS
Make a Cream Sauce, add one cup of fresh mushrooms
chopped fine, or the same quantity of canned mushrooms,
and cook over boiling water ten minutes. If canned mush-
rooms are used, simply heat, do not cook, as it toughens
the mushrooms.
This sauce may be used the same as Cream Sauce.
CURRANT JELLY SAUCE
Make Brown Sauce No. i, and add to it four tablespoon-
fuls of currant jelly ; let it boil up once, and it is ready to
use.
This is served with game.
CURRY SAUCE
Add one teaspoon ful of curry powder and one teaspoonful
of onion juice to the recipe for Drawn Butter.
DRAWN BUTTER
2 tablespoonfuls of butter ^ pint of boiling water
i tablespoon ful of flour ]/?, teaspoonful of salt
Mix the butter and flour to a smooth paste in a bowl, place
the bowl over the fire in a pan of boiling water, add the
half-pint of boiling water gradually, stirring all the while
until it thickens; add the salt. Take from the fire and
use immediately. The great point in preparing drawn
butter is to take from the fire as soon as it thickens. For
this sauce it is very essential to have good butter. Serve
with asparagus, boiled fish, cauliflower, etc.
228 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
EGG SAUCE
Make a Cream Sauce, and when finished add two hard-
boiled eggs, the whites chopped very fine and the yolks
pressed through a sieve. Serve with boiled poultry.
ESPAGNOLE SAUCE
Boil one quart of consomme until reduced to one pint.
Then put four ounces of butter in a frying-pan and stir
until very brown ; then add two tablespoon fuls of flour;
mix well ; add the reduced consomme, stir continually until
it boils ; then add one tablespoonful of Worcestershire
sauce, one tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, salt and pep-
per to taste. Take from the fire and add two tablespoon-
fuls of sherry.
FISH SAUCE
i tablespoonful of chopped Yolks of three eggs
parsley ^ teaspoon ful of salt
i tablespoonful of chopped i dash of cayenne
gherkins ^ pint of olive oil
i tablespoonful of vinegar
Put the chopped parsley into a bowl and pound it with a
potato-masher until reduced to a pulp, then add to it the
yolks of the eggs, mix thoroughly, and proceed as for May-
onnaise Dressing. When you have finished it, add the
cayenne and gherkin. Serve with boiled or broiled fish.
SAUCE HOLLANDAISE
Make a Drawn Butter ; when you have finished it, take it
from the fire, and add gradually the yolks of two eggs
(beaten) ; then add juice of half a lemon, a teaspoonful
of onion juice, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley.
Serve with boiled or baked fish and fish croquettes.
LOBSTER SAUCE
Make a Drawn Butter ; when you have finished it, add
one cup of boiled lobster, chopped fine, and the coral, if
SAUCES AND GRAVIES 229
there be any, rubbed to a smooth paste with a tablespoon fuJ
of butter. Return it to the fire and stir for five minutes.
Serve with fish.
MAITRE d'HOTEL SAUCE
2 tablespoon fuls of butter
i tablespoon ful of chopped parsley
i tablespoon ful of lemon juice
% teaspoon ful of salt
Mix all the ingredients and knead well together in a bowl.
It should be perfectly smooth. Served with salt fish, broiled
or fried.
This is also called Maitre d' Hotel Butter.
MINT SAUCE
i bunch of mint (ten stalks) 4 tablespoon fuls of vinegar
i large tablespoonful of white ^ teaspoonful of salt
sugar 2 dashes of black pepper
Chop the mint until very fine ; then mix with it the sugar ;
add salt and pepper, and rub well, adding the vinegar little
by little. Serve with roast lamb.
MUSHROOM SAUCE
Make Brown Sauce No. 3, and add to it one pint of fresh
or canned mushrooms ; if the first, simmer gently for fifteen
minutes ; if the latter, only five. Take from the fire, and
add the wine, if you use it.
The fat must be very brown before adding the flour,
or the sauce will be muddled.
Serve with broiled steak, fillet, veal cutlets and other
similar dishes.
OLIVE SAUCE
Make Brown Sauce No. i, and add to it one dozen olives
prepared as follows : With a sharp-pointed knife pare around
and around the olive as you would an apple, keeping close
to the stone ; throw them in boiling water for ten minutes,
230 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
then drain, and add them to the sauce ; simmer gently for
ten minutes. Serve with broiled steak or roast ducks.
ONION SAUCE
Peel one dozen small onions, put them in a saucepan, cover
with boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil half
an hour, then drain and press through a fine sieve. Make
a White Sauce, add the onions to it, let it boil up once,
and it is ready to use.
This is nice with boiled fowl.
OYSTER SAUCE
Boil twenty-five oysters in their own liquor for one minute,
stirring continually ; drain, put the liquor back on the fire;
add one cup of cream or milk ; rub one -tablespoon ful of
butter and two of flour to a smooth paste, and stir into the
boiling liquor until it thickens. Chop the oysters into
dice, add them to the sauce, season with salt and pepper,
and take from the fire. This will curdle if boiled after
adding the oysters. Serve with poultry and boiled fish.
PORT WINE SAUCE
Make the same as Champagne Sauce, using port wine in-
stead of champagne. Serve with duck or game.
ROBERT SAUCE
J pound of butter i ounce of flour
3 small onions ^ pint of stock
i teaspoonful of tarragon i teaspoonful of sugar
vinegar i teaspoonful of French
Salt and pepper to taste mustard
Put the butter in a frying-pan to melt ; when melted, add
the flour; mix, and add the onion, chopped fine. Stir
over the fire until the whole is lightly browned; then add
the stock ; stir continually until it boils. Mix the vinegar,
sugar and mustard together until smooth; then stir them
into the sauce, and it is ready to use.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES 231
SAUCE PIQUANTE
Make Brown Sauce No. i, stand it over boiling water to
keep hot while you prepare the following : Put two table-
spoonfuls of chopped onion, one gill of vinegar, one table-
spoonful of capers, and (if you can get it) one tablespooonful
of powdered tarragon leaves, in a small, porcelain-lined
saucepan, and simmer for five minutes ; add to it the brown
sauce, stir continually until it boils, and boil five minutes ;
strain and use.
SHRIMP SAUCE
Make the same as Lobster Sauce, adding one cup of chopped
shrimps instead of one cup of lobster.
SHAD-ROE SAUCE
Wash two shad roes well in cold water. Put them in a
small saucepan, add one teaspoon ful of salt, cover with
boiling water; put the lid on the saucepan, and simmer
gently for fifteen minutes. Drain, remove the outer skin,
and mash fine. Make a White Sauce, add the roe gradually
to it, boil up once, and it is ready to use.
Serve with baked shad.
SUPREME SAUCE
i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of thick
i tablespoonful of chopped cream
parsley ^ pint of chicken stock
i tablespoonful of flour Yolks of two eggs
Salt and pepper to taste
Melt the butter, being careful not to brown ; add the flour ;
mix until smooth ; then add the stock ; stir continually
until it boils ; add the cream. Take from the fire, add the
well-beaten yolks of the eggs, parsley, salt and pepper, and
it is ready to use.
This sauce may be served with broiled or fried chicken,
or chicken cutlets.
232 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
SAUCE TARTARE
YI pint of mayonnaise dressing
3 olives
i gherkin
i tablespoonful of capers
Chop the olives, gherkin, and capers very fine, add them
to the dressing, and it is ready for use. You may add a
half-teaspoonful of powdered coriander seed, or one table-
spoonful of tarragon vinegar.
Serve with smelts, lobster chops, or cold meat dishes.
TOMATO SAUCE
i pint of stewed tomatoes i bay leaf
i tablespoonful of butter i sprig of parsley
i tablespoonful of flour i blade of mace
i small onion Salt and pepper to taste
Put the tomatoes on the fire with the onion, bay leaf,
parsley, and mace, and simmer slowly for ten minutes.
Melt the butter, add to it the flour ; mix until smooth.
Press the tomatoes through a sieve, add them to the butter
and flour, stir continually until it boils, add salt and pepper,
and it is ready to use.
This may be served with chops, fillet, or broiled steak.
CREAM TOMATO SAUCE
Make a Tomato Sauce, and, when ready to serve, add to it
three tablespoonfuls of thick cream. Do not boil after
adding the cream.
WHITE SAUCE
Last, but not least, as this is the foundation of many
others:
i tablespoonful of butter ^ pint of white stock
i tablespoonful of flour Salt and pepper to taste
Melt the butter, but do not brown ; add to it the flour ;
mix, and add the stock ; stir continually until it boils ; add
salt and pepper, and it is ready to serve.
SALADS
In giving recipes for salad dressings, it is almost impossible
to give exact quantities, especially if we consider the great
diversity of tastes. Delmonico, it is said, used only one
yolk as a foundation for a quart of oil, with salt and cay-
enne as seasoning. For fish, meats, and some vegetables,
such as cauliflower, tomatoes, and celery, this dressing
(mayonnaise) seems appropriate ; but the simple French
dressing for lettuce, served as a salad after a hearty meal,
is best. In preparing these dressings, use a silver or wooden
fork, a large soup plate, which should be very, very cold,
and the freshest and best of olive oil, cayenne or white
pepper, and good strong vinegar or lemon juice. A com-
mon question is, " What can we use in the place of oil ?"
Cream and melted butter may be used, but will not take
the place of the oil. The Spanish proverb is that four
persons are necessary to make a good salad: "A spend-
thrift, for oil; a miser, for vinegar ; a barrister, for salt;
and a madman, to stir it up."
If you wish to preserve the crispness and flavor of
green vegetables for salads, throw them in ice-water for an
hour, then dry carefully on a soft towel, being careful not
to bruise them, and then put in a cold place until wanted.
Never mix any salad with the dressing until you are ready
(233)
234 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
to serve it. Use the coldest of dishes to serve it on, and,
if garnished properly, it is one of the most attractive and
wholesome dishes on the table.
MAYONNAISE DRESSING
Put the uncooked yolks of two eggs into a clean, cold
soup-dish, beat them well with a silver or wooden fork about
one minute ; then add a half-teaspoonfnl of salt, a dash of
cayenne, and, if you like it, a half-teaspoon ful of mustard.
Work these well together, and then add, drop by drop, a
half-pint or more of olive oil. You must stir rapidly and
steadily while adding the oil. Do not reverse the motion,
or it may curdle. After adding one gill of oil, alternate
occasionally with a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar.
The more oil you use, the thicker the dressing. If too
thick, add a half-tablespoon ful or more of vinegar, until a
proper consistency. More * or less oil may be added, ac-
cording to the quantity of dressing wanted. \Vith care a
quart bottle of oil may be stirred into the yolks of two
eggs, alternating with a few drops of lemon juice or vine-
gar, after adding the first gill of oil. It is easier, however,
to start with three yolks when making a quart of dressing.
In case the dressing should curdle, /. e., the egg and oil
separate, which makes the dressing liquid, begin anew at
once with the yolks of two eggs in another plate, and after
stirring them well, add by teaspoonfuls the curdled mayon-
naise, stirring all the while, and then finish by adding more
oil as directed.
In warm weather, it will take only one-half the time,
if you put the dish in which you make the mayonnaise
on a piece of ice, or in a pan of ice-water ; the oil and
eggs should also be cold.
This dressing, if covered closely in a jar or tumbler,
will keep in a cold place one week.
SALADS 235
It also may be varied by adding plain or tarragon
vinegar, whipped cream, a half-teaspoon ful of powdered
coriander seed, chervil, or onion juice.
FRENCH DRESSING
I tablespoonful of vinegar
3 tablespoon fuls of olive oil
^ teaspoon ful of salt
% teaspoon ful of black pepper
Put the salt and pepper in a bowl, add gradually the oil,
rub and mix until the salt is thoroughly dissolved; then
add by degrees the vinegar, stir continually for one minute,
and it is ready to use.
Tarragon vinegar may be used for this dressing instead
of plain vinegar.
SALAD DRESSING
Yolks of three hard-boiled eggs" Yolk of one raw egg
i tablespoonful of vinegar i gill of olive oil
YI teaspoon ful of salt Dash of cayenne
Mash the cooked yolks until perfectly smooth, then add
the raw one, and work with an elastic-bladed knife for five
minutes, then add the salt and cayenne, mix again, and
add the oil drop by drop, stirring rapidly and steadily all
the while; then add the vinegar by degrees, and it is fin-
ished.
More oil and vinegar may be added to this if a greater
quantity of dressing is required.
SALAD DRESSING WITHOUT OIL
YO. pint of milk 2 even tablespoon fuls of corn-
Yolks of three eggs starch
Butter the size of a walnut 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar
i teaspoonful of salt i saltspoonful of black pepper
Put the milk on to boil. Moisten the corn starch with a
236 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
very little cold milk, add to the boiling milk, and stir con-
tinually until it boils and thickens; then add the yolks of
the eggs well beaten, cook one minute, take from the fire,
add the salt, pepper, butter and vinegar, stand away until
cold, and it is ready to use.
CREAM SALAD DRESSING
Yolks of three hard-boiled eggs
1 tablespoonful of melted butter
Yolk of one raw egg
2 tablespoon fuls of vinegar
i gill of thick cream
YO, teaspoon ful of salt
^ teaspoonful of black pepper
Mash the hard-boiled yolks until fine, then add the raw yolk
and work with an elastic-bladed knife to a perfectly smooth
paste ; then add the salt, pepper and melted butter, then by
degrees the cream, working and stirring all the while ; now
add the vinegar, mix well, and it is finished.
CHICKEN SALAD
Draw, singe, and boil the chicken same as directed for
Chicken Croquettes. When done, and perfectly cold, re-
move the skin and cut the meat into dice. If you want it
very nice, use only the white meat, save the dark for cro-
quettes. After you have cut it, stand it away in a cold
place until wanted. Wash and cut the white parts of
celery into pieces about a half-inch long, throw them into a
bowl of cold water and also stand them away until wanted.
To every pint of chicken allow two-thirds of a pint of
celery, and a cup and a half of mayonnaise dressing.
When ready to serve, dry the celery and mix with the
chicken, dust lightly with salt, white pepper or cayenne,
then mix with it the mayonnaise. Serve on a cold dish
garnished with the white celery tips.
SALADS 237
One cup of whipped cream may be added to every
half-pint of mayonnaise, when ready to use it. It makes
the dressing lighter with less of the oily flavor.
The liquor in which the chicken was boiled may be
used for soup.
VEAL SALAD
Veal salad may be made precisely the same as Chicken
Salad, using cold roast or boiled veal instead of chicken.
MAYONNAISE OF SWEETBREADS
Clean and parboil one pair of sweetbreads, then throw
them into cold water for a half-hour. Remove the fat and
skin, and cover them with fresh boiling water; add a tea-
spoonful of salt and simmer gently for twenty minutes.
When done, stand away to cool. When cold, cut into*
thin slices. Wash and dry the tender leaves from one head
of lettuce. Rub the bottom of a soup dish with onion
and make in it nearly a half-pint of mayonnaise. Place a
thin slice of onion in the centre of your salad dish, arrange
the lettuce leaves around it ; mix the sweetbreads carefully
with the mayonnaise, and put in the centre of the dish.
Serve.
This is a delicious salad, and if prepared as directed
will have only the faintest suspicion of onion.
Tarragon vinegar added to the mayonnaise is a great
improvement.
CRAB SALAD
1 dozen crabs
Y<2, pint of mayonnaise dressing
2 heads of salad
Boil the crabs the same as for Deviled Crabs. When cold,
pick out the meat, and put it away until wanted. Wash
and dry the salad carefully, and make the mayonnaise.
238 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
When ready to serve, mix the crab meat and the mayon-
naise together. Garnish the dish with the white leaves of
the salad, place the crabs in the centre of the dish, and
serve.
Or, the salad may be served in the back shell of the
crabs, garnished with the tiny salad leaves.
FISH SALAD
Cold boiled or baked fish may be made into salad, allow-
ing one head of lettuce and a half-pint of mayonnaise to
every pint of the picked fish.
LOBSTER SALAD
2 lobsters (weighing four or five pounds)
The tender leaves from two heads of lettuce
y-2, pint of mayonnaise
Boil the lobsters as directed for Boiled Lobster. When
cold, take out the meat, being careful not to break the
body or tail shells, and rejecting the stomach, the black
vein running along the back of the tail, and the spongy
fingers on the outside of the body. Cut the meat into dice
with a silver knife, and stand it in a cold place until
wanted. Make the mayonnaise. Clean the two tail shells,
and one back, in cold water, and with scissors, remove the
thin shell from the under side of the tail. Wash and dry
the lettuce leaves, put them around the salad dish in two or
three layers. Join the shells together in the form of a
boat, the body shell in the centre, place them in the salad
dish. Mix the mayonnaise and lobster together, put it
into this boat. If there is any coral, mash it fine and
sprinkle it over the whole. Garnish with a chain of the
whites of hard-boiled eggs cut into slices and linked
together. Serve immediately.
SALADS 239
SALAD OF OYSTER CRABS
i pint of oyster crabs
y? pint of mayonnaise
i head of lettuce
Throw the oyster crabs into boiling salted water for five
minutes, drain, and dry very carefully on a soft towel.
When ready to use, mix them with the mayonnaise and
serve on the crisp lettuce leaves.
These come in glass jars already blanched ; simply
drain, wipe and they are ready to use.
OYSTER SALAD
Boil twenty oysters in their own liquor five minutes, drain,
wash in cold water, then dry and stand away until very
cold. When cold, mix with a half-cup of mayonnaise, and
serve on crisp salad leaves.
MAYONNAISE OF SALMON
One pint of cold boiled or canned salmon, free from all
bones and skin, and a half-pint of mayonnaise, may be
mixed together and served on a bed of crisp salad leaves.
SHAD-ROE SALAD
Wash one set of shad roes, put them in a saucepan, cover
them with boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, put the
lid on the saucepan and simmer gently twenty minutes.
When done, lift them carefully from the water and stand
away until perfectly cold. Make a half-pint of mayonnaise
and stand it away also. When ready to serve, remove the
skin from the outside of the shad roe and cut them into
thin slices. Put one slice of onion in the centre of the
salad dish, arrange around it crisp salad leaves, heap the
shad roe in the centre, pour over it the mayonnaise, and it
is ready to serve.
240 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
SHRIMP SALAD
Boil the shrimps as in recipe for Boiled Shrimps, and when
cold remove the shells, and stand away until very cold.
To every pint of the boiled shrimps allow nearly a half-pint
of mayonnaise. When ready to serve, cut the shrimps into
small pieces with a silver knife, mix them with the mayon-
naise, and serve on crisp salad leaves.
Dunbar's or White's canned shrimps are very nice,
and may be used for salad. After removing them from the
can, wash them in cold water, dry them with a soft towel,
and they are ready to use.
Sardines and anchovies may also be made into salads.
SALAD OF ASPARAGUS TOPS
i pint of asparagus tops
The rule for French dressing
Boil the tops in salted boiling water for fifteen minutes,
drain, throw into cold water, and let stand until ready to
use. Then dry carefully with a soft napkin, put them into
the salad dish, pour over the French dressing ; let stand
about ten minutes, and serve.
BEET SALAD
Slice, and cut into dice, sufficient cold boiled beets to
make one pint ; heap them in the centre of a salad dish and
cover with a half-pint of sauce Tartare. Garnish with par-
sley, and serve very cold.
SALAD OF STRING BEANS
Trim one pint of very young beans, put them in a sauce-
pan, cover with boiling water, add a teaspoon ful of salt and
boil thirty minutes. When done, drain and throw them
into cold water until very cold, then dry them with a soft
towel, cut each bean in four pieces lengthwise, arrange
them neatly on a salad-dish, cover them with French dres-
sing, let stand one hour, and serve.
SALADS 241
CAULIFLOWER SALAD
i medium-sized head of cauliflower
y 2 P mt f mayonnaise
Boil the cauliflower as directed, throw into cold water until
wanted, then pick it apart carefully, dry with a soft napkin,
put in the salad dish, pour over the mayonnaise, let it stand
fifteen minutes, and serve.
CELERY SALAD
Cut the white stalks of celery into pieces a half-inch long.
To every pint of these pieces allow a half-pint of mayon-
naise dressing. Dust the celery lightly with salt and pepper,
mix it with the dressing, heap it on a cold plate, garnish
with white tips of the celery, and serve immediately. Do
not mix the celery and dressing until you are ready to use
the salad.
COLD SLAW
1 quart of cut cabbage 2 eggs
y> cup of cream (sour is best) i teaspoonful of salt
2 tablespoon fuls of vinegar A little pepper
Butter the size of a walnut
Cut the cabbage very fine and put it in an earthen bowl.
Put the vinegar on to boil. Beat the eggs until light, add
to them the cream and butter. Now add to these the boil-
ing vinegar. Stir over the fire until boiling hot, add the
salt and pepper, and pour over the cabbage, and it is ready
to serve when very cold.
CUCUMBER SALAD
2 young cucumbers % teaspoonful of black pepper
l / 2 teaspoonful of salt 4 tablespoon fuls of vinegar
Pare and slice the cucumbers very thin, soak them in cold
water one hour, then drain and dry. Put them in your
salad bowl, sprinkle them with the salt and pepper, and
pour over the vinegar. Serve immediately.
242 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
EGG SALAD
Boil six eggs fifteen minutes; while they are boiling, make
a French dressing and add to it one tablespoon ful of tar-
ragon vinegar, one tablespoon ful of onion juice and one
tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley. When the eggs
are done remove the shells, cut them into slices, and
arrange them on a salad dish so that one overlaps the other ;
pour the dressing over while the eggs are still hot, stand
away in a cold place for one or two hours, garnish with
parsley, and serve.
LETTUCE SALAD
Choose the crisp centre leaves of the head lettuce. Wash
them, if necessary, and dry thoroughly and carefully with
a soft towel. Break or tear the leaves into convenient
pieces with a silver fork. Cover with a French dressing, turn
the whole upside down to mix it well, and serve immediately.
It is customary in this country to serve mayonnaise
with lettuce salad, but after one has had a heavy dinner the
simple French dressing is more refreshing.
The following may be made and served the same as
lettuce salad :
Endive Water-cress Nasturtium blossoms Sorrel
Peppergrass Turnip tops Dandelions Corn -salad
MACEDOINE SALAD
1 boiled beet i boiled carrot
2 tablespoon fuls of cooked i small onion
green peas i root of celery
i dozen boiled string beans ^ pint of mayonnaise
y<2, cup of boiled asparagus tops dressing
Cut the beet, beans, carrot, and celery into small pieces ;
chop the onion very fine ; mix all the vegetables carefully
together, then add the mayonnaise, and serve immediately.
If the vegetables are properly prepared, this makes a
delicious salad.
SALADS 243
The vegetables may be purchased in bottles, ready
prepared, from the grocer.
POTATO SALAD
3 good-sized potatoes 9 tablespoon fuls of olive oil
i teaspoon ml of salt 3 tablespoon fuls of vinegar
i saltspoonful of black i good-sized onion
pepper 3 or 4 sprigs of parsley
Pare and boil the potatoes. While, they are boiling, pre-
pare the dressing. Put the salt and pepper into a bowl, and
add gradually the oil ; stir until the salt is thoroughly dis-
solved ; add gradually the vinegar, stirring all the while.
Chop the onion very, very fine. When the potatoes are
done, cut them into thin slices, mix them carefully with the
onion, then add the dressing, and turn them upside down
without breaking the potatoes. Dish, and stand away in a
cold place for one or two hours. Sprinkle with the parsley
chopped very fine. The dish may be garnished with parsley
and pickled beets cut in fancy shapes.
TOMATO SALAD
6 tomatoes ^ cup of mayonnaise dressing
The crisp part of one head of lettuce
Peel the tomatoes without scalding, and put them on ice
until they are very, very cold. Make the mayonnaise, and
stand it on the ice until wanted. The lettuce may also be
washed and dried. When ready to serve, cut the tomatoes
in halves. Make twelve little nests with two or three salad
leaves each, arrange uniformly on the dish, place half a
tomato in each nest, put a tablespoonful of mayonnaise on
each tomato, and serve immediately.
FRUIT SALAD DRESSING No. i
4 tablespoonfuls of sugar i gill of sherry
Y<2, teaspoonful of cinnamon 2 tablespoonfuls of Madeira
Mix the sugar and cinnamon together, add the wine, and
stir constantly until the sugar is dissolved.
244 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
FRUIT SALAD DRESSING No. 2
4 tablespoonfuls of sugar
i gill of sherry
1 tablespoonful of maraschino
2 tablespoonfuls of champagne
Mix all the ingredients together, and stir until the sugar is
dissolved.
APPLE SALAD
6 apples
4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar
^ teaspoonful of cinnamon
i gill of sherry
Pare, core, and cut the apples into very thin slices. Put a
layer of these slices in the bottom of a glass dish, sprinkle
them with the sugar, and a little cinnamon, then another
layer of apples, and so continue until all is used. Pour
the wine over, and stand away in a cold place for one hour,
and it is ready to use.
APRICOT SALAD
Pare, cut the apricots in halves, and remove the stones.
Arrange the halves neatly in a bowl, with the stone sides
up; then pour over them Fruit Salad Dressing, No. 2, stand
in a cold place one hour, and serve.
BANANA SALAD
Peel and cut six bananas into thin slices, then pour over
them Fruit Salad Dressing, No. 2, stand in a cold place one
hour, and serve.
ORANGE SALAD
Peel, cut six oranges into slices and remove the seeds, pour
over them Fruit Salad Dressing, No. 2, stand away one or
two hours, and serve.
Mandarins may be used in the same manner.
PEACH SALAD
Made precisely the same as Apricot Salad.
ADDITIONAL RECIPES 245
246 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
DINNER-GIVING FOR SENSIBLE
PEOPLE
Little dinners, pretty and enjoyable, are, to my mind, the
only rational way of entertaining. If people in ordi-
nary circumstances are to make them a success, they must
try no elaborate dishes, no long dinners which it is neces-
sary to get some one in to cook ; for this is always evident,
and makes dinner-giving both a burden and an expense.
If little dinners are to be successful, they must bring
neither, otherwise they lapse into long dinners, too often
stupid, with the hostess too wearied to be bright, after a
day spent in a hot kitchen, helping her incompetent cook
to struggle with unaccustomed, and hence difficult, dishes.
As one course after another comes on, their success is her
chief anxiety, rather than the entertainment of her guests.
Inexpressibly better a simple joint, with roast potatoes, and
a fresh, bright hostess, whose only thought is the intellectual
entertainment of her guests.
The elaborate and conventional dinner, complete at
all points, which the dinner-giving of a century and a half
has evolved, is beyond any but the very wealthy. Very
few of them succeed in giving it, and still fewer of their
guests enjoy it, Its triple triplets of oysters, soup, and
(247)
248 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
fish, the releve, entrees, and roast, a pause of rum punch
to stimulate languishing digestion, game with salad, sweets
and ice, coffee to close, and a bewildering series of wines,
with an alcoholic appetizer to begin and end, have, how-
ever, had their effect in making many feel that a formal
dinner must only follow this model from afar. So, with
only the resources of a simple household, they compass,
with infinite labor, oysters, soup, and fish, add some made
dish to the meat, and put salad before and ice cream after
the pudding or sweets. But success here, with a moderate
income, is as rare as success with the long dinner at the
complete table. Try to grasp the theory of the elaborate
edifice which custom and convention has piled up, and see
if your own resources cannot reproduce its purpose with
better success. After having carefully analyzed it, you will
see at once that the most complex dinner simply aims to
begin with something of easy digestion, slide by some trans-
ition to the roast, and make sure that through salad, sweets
and coffee, the last half of your dinner shall interest the
appetite as well as satisfy hunger. You, have, therefore,
soup, roast, dessert, which make up the usual dinner of
thoroughly civilized people, and below you will see how,
with but moderate resources, you may so vary this as to
make a "little dinner" complete and satisfying in itself;
more, the most elaborate meal at Delmonico's cannot do.
To begin with, don't have too many people. It is as
bad as too many courses. Until years of experience have
taught you how to conduct and carry on the conversation
and social contact of eight or ten, six at the utmost are
enough for a successful dinner. Get together around an
evening dinner table, six of the pleasantest people whom
you know (including yourself), put at defiance most of the
traditions for a dinner party, and success will be quite sure
to be the result. I say " night," because there is an inde-
DINNER-GIVING 249
scribable something about the meal, together with the hour
and the lights and all, that seems to make people talk as
they never talk at a noon dinner or at a tea.
Have only what your cook can do easily, and, above
all things, never try anything that you have not had suffi-
ciently often when you are by yourselves to be quite sure
she can do it well. If you are too far from the sea for
oysters on the shell to be quite perfect, or even if you are
not, begin with soup. Follow this, perhaps, with cream
macaroni. It is more easily prepared than fish in any
form, and almost every one likes it. This should be suc-
ceeded by the usual roast, or something of the sort, with
which serve one vegetable only, beside rice or potatoes.
Then, of course, comes a salad, and after that some sweet
as a dessert. East India preserved ginger is one of the
nicest things possible, and not at all expensive, as a jar cost-
ing $1.50 will make several desserts. Serve with it some
wafers or delicate, thin water-crackers, and be sure to
serve it from the jar in which it comes, standing the jar on
some pretty plate. Lastly, comes black coffee.
S. W. R. WILLIAMS.
MENUS
It would, indeed, he a difficult task to add to what has
already been given in modern bills of fare, but the few
following may be of use in small and less pretentious
families:
BREAKFAST
Oat Meal Mush with Whipped Cream
Broiled Steak Stewed Potatoes
Quick Muffins
Coffee
Fruit
250 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
BREAKFAST
Fried Indian Mush, Maple Syrup
Cecils of Cold Meat Saratoga Potatoes
Flannel Cakes
Cocoa
Fruit in Season
BREAKFAST (SPRING)
Small Hominy Boiled in Milk
Lamb Chops, Broiled Lyonnaise Potatoes
Gems Coffee
Orange Salad
BREAKFAST (SPRING)
Flannel Cakes Coffee
Fried Chicken, Cream Sauce
Scalloped Potatoes
Salad with French Dressing
BREAKFAST IN LENT
Oat Meal Mush with Whipped Cream
Broiled Oysters Beau regard Eggs
Muffins
Coffee or Chocolate
Pomegranates
BREAKFAST (SUMMER)
Strawberries without Stemming
Broiled Tomatoes, Cream Gravy New Potatoes, Boiled
Cheese Ramakins
Rolls
Coffee
DINNER-GIVING 251
LUNCHEON
Bouillon
Orange Sherbet Served in Orange Skins
Fish a la Reine in Paper Cases
Chicken Croquettes French Peas
Terrapin with Saratoga Potatoes
Boned Chicken
Wafers Cheese
Montrose Pudding
Black Coffee
LUNCHEON
Roman Punch Served in Ice Tumblers
Sweetbreads a la Creme Served in Paper Cases
Partridges on Toast
Salmon Croquettes, Sauce Hollandaise
Cheese Ramakins
Charlotte Russe
Black Coffee
DINNER (SPRING)
Julienne Soup
Oysters a la Cr6me
Roast Lamb, Mint Sauce Peas New Potatoes
Lettuce, French Dressing
Crackers and Cheese
Black Coffee
DINNER (SUMMER)
Tomato Soup with Crofttons
Boiled Sheep's Head, Sauce Hollandaise
Fillet of Beef with Mushroom Sauce
Potatoes Peas Corn in the Husk
Tomato Salad
Cheese and Wafers
Strawberry Bavarian Cream
252 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
DINNER (AUTUMN)
Puree of Beans
Stuffed Cabbage with Cream Sauce
Roast Chicken, Giblet Sauce
Mashed Potatoes Stewed Tomatoes Rice Croquettes
Celery with Mayonnaise
Cheese Fingers
Wigwam Pudding
Black Coffee
DINNER (WINTER)
Oysters on the Half Shell
Consomme
Cream Macaroni
Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce Currant Jelly
Mashed Potatoes Peas Cauliflower
Lettuce with French Dressing
Water Crackers Neufchatel
Lemon Sponge
Black Coffee
SUPPER
Fried Chicken Waffles
Stuffed Potatoes
Sliced Tomatoes Sardines
Fruit
Iced Tea
EGGS
To ascertain the freshness of an egg without breaking it,
hold it before a strong light, or toward the sun, and if
the yolk appears round, and the white surrounding it clear,
the chances are it is good.
Or, put them in a bucket of water; the fresh ones will
sink immediately, those that float are doubtful. The shell
of a fresh egg looks dull and porous.
To preserve eggs, it is only necessary to close the pores
of the shell. This may be done by varnishing, or by dip-
ping in melted suet, and then packing them in salt with the
small end downward.
Or, make a lime water by pouring one gallon of boiling
water over one pound of lime ; when cold and settled,
pour it off carefully into a stone jar over the eggs, which
must be packed with the small ends downward ; keep in a
cool, dark place. I have used this recipe myself with per-
fect success, the eggs being fresh and sweet at the end of
three months.
BAKED EGGS
6 eggs
2 tablespoon fuls of finely-chopped chicken
2 mushrooms, chopped fine
i tablespoonful of chopped parsley
(353)
254 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
y% teaspoonful of ground mace
Dash of cayenne
Salt to taste
Boil the eggs fifteen minutes, throw them into cold water,
shell them, cut them into halves crosswise, cut a little slice
from the bottom to make them stand. Take out the yolks,
mash them fine, add to them all the other ingredients, mix
thoroughly. Fill the hollowed whites and heap up in a
tiny pyramid, brush over with the yolk of a raw egg, and
put in the oven to brown ; while they are browning, broil
a slice of ham, cut it into as many squares as there are eggs.
Make a Cream Sauce (see recipe). Serve the eggs on the
squares of ham, and pour the cream sauce around them.
BEAUREGARD EGGS
5 eggs -fa pint of milk
i tablespoonful of corn starch Lump of butter, size of a
5 squares of toast walnut
Salt nd pepper to taste
Cover the eggs with boiling water and boil for twenty min-
utes. Take off their shells, chop the whites fine and rub
the yolks through a sieve. Do not mix them. Now put
the milk on to boil, rub the butter and corn starch together,
and add to the boiling milk. Now add the whites, salt
and pepper. Put the toast on a hot dish, cover it with a
layer of this white sauce, then a layer of the yolks, then
the remainder of the whites, and then the remainder of the
yolks. Sprinkle the top with a little salt and pepper, stand
in the oven for a minute or two, and serve. This is good
and sightly.
EGGS a la BECHAMEL
6 eggs i tablespoonful of butter
i tablespoonful of flour i gill of white or veal stock
gill of cream Yolk of one egg
Salt and pepper to taste
Boil the eggs fifteen minutes ; while they are boiling, prepare
EGGS 255
the sauce as follows : Melt the butter in a frying-pan, being
careful not to brown it ; add to it the flour, mix until
smooth ; add the stock and cream, and stir continually until
it boils ; add salt and pepper, and stand it over the tea
kettle to keep warm while you shell the eggs. Cut the
whites into thin shreds, chop the yolks into tiny squares,
then pile them in the centre of a shallow, heated dish, and
arrange the whites around them. Give the sauce a stir and
pour it around the eggs.
BOILED EGGS
The fresher laid the eggs are, the better. Put them in
boiling water; if you like the white set, about two min-
utes' boiling is enough. A new-laid egg will take three
minutes, if you wish the yolk set. To boil hard, for salads
or made dishes, will take ten minutes.
EGGS FOR BREAKFAST
6 eggs i tablespoonful of butter
i tablespoonful of flour 2 tablespoonfuls of cream
i slice of onion i bay leaf
6 mushrooms ^ pint of white stock
Boil the eggs for fifteen minutes. Remove the shells, take
out the yolks, being careful not to break them ; cut the
whites and the mushrooms into dice. Put the butter on to
melt, add the flour, mix until smooth; add the stock and
cream, stir continually until it boils ; add the salt and pep-
per, the whites of the eggs, and the mushrooms, stir over
the fire until it comes again to a boil, throw in the yolks
and let it stand over the tea kettle for one or two minutes
until the yolks are heated. Serve in a small shallow dish.
EGGS a la CREME
6 eggs i tablespoonful of butter
i tablespoonful of flour y? pint of milk
y<2 teaspoonful of salt Pepper to taste
256 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Boil the eggs fifteen minutes, remove the shells, and cut
them in halves crosswise. Slice a little bit off the bottom
to make them stand. Put the butter in a frying-pan to
melt, then add the flour, mix until smooth, add the milk
and stir continually until it boils, add the salt and pepper.
Stand the eggs on a heated platter, pour the sauce over and
around them. Serve very hot.
DEVILED EGGS
12 eggs
1 large teaspoon ful of French mustard
2 heaping tablespoon mis of cold boiled ham or tongue
i tablespoonful of olive oil
Salt and cayenne to taste
Cover the eggs with warm water, and boil fifteen minutes,
then throw them into cold water for half an hour; this pre-
vents the whites from turning dark. Remove the shells,
and cut the eggs in halves lengthwise. Take out the yolks
carefully without breaking the whites. Rub the yolks to a
smooth paste with the mustard and oil, then add the ham
or tongue finely chopped, the salt and pepper, and mix
thoroughly. Fill the hollowed whites with this mixture,
and serve on a bed of water-cress or salad.
For picnics or garden parties, put the two correspond-
ing halves together and press them closely. Cut white
tissue paper into pieces six inches square, fringe the opposite
sides, roll one egg in each paper, twist the fringed ends
same as the candied secrets. Serve on a napkin, in a pretty
little basket, garnished with smilax or myrtle.
EGGS FONDUE
6 eggs
2 heaping tablespoon fuls of Parmesan
% teaspoonful of salt
i dash of cayenne
Beat the eggs with a fork until light, add the salt, pepper
EGGS 257
and Parmesan. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying-
pan ; when hot, turn in the eggs, and stir until thoroughly
cooked and smooth. Serve on squares of buttered toast.
FRIED EGGS
Cut a nice piece of bacon into squares, put these in a frying-
pan, and set over a gentle fire, that they may lose their
fat. When as much as will freely come out is melted from
them, lay them on a warm dish. Break the eggs gently
into a saucer, and then slide them into the fat. Fry gently
until the yolk is set. Take out with a slice, place on the
warm dish, and garnish with the bacon.
EGGS IN MARINADE
6 eggs 24 whole cloves
i pint of vinegar ^ teaspoonful of ground
YZ teaspoonful of salt mustard
1/2 teaspoonful of pepper
Boil the eggs fifteen minutes. Take off the shells and stick
four cloves into each egg. Put the vinegar on to boil.
Pvub the mustard, salt, and pepper with a little cold vine-
gar, to a smooth paste, and add to the vinegar when boiling.
Stir over the fire one minute. Put the eggs in a glass fruit
jar, pour over them the boiling vinegar, cover, and let
stand two weeks.
These are nice to serve as an accompaniment to broiled
steak.
EGGS sur le PLAT
Butter the bottom of little egg basins or one large tin dish.
Break one egg into each of the basins, being careful not to
break the yolk, or six eggs may be broken in the large dish.
Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and bake in a quick oven
until the yolks are set. Serve in the dish in which they are
cooked.
258 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
POACHED EGGS
Strictly fresh eggs only are fit to poach. The beauty of a
poached egg is for the yolk to be seen blushing through the
white, which should be just sufficiently hardened to form a
veil for the yolk. Have some fresh boiling water in a stew-
pan, break the egg into a saucer, remove the parr from the
fire and gently slip the egg into it. Now break another, and
so on until the bottom of the pan is covered. Now put it
over a moderate fire, and as soon as the water boils the eggs
are ready ; take them up with a slice, and neatly round off
the ragged edges of the whites. Serve on buttered toast.
SCRAMBLED EGGS
Break six eggs in a bowl and beat them gently until all the
yolks are broken. Put a piece of butter the size of a wal-
nut in a frying-pan and put over the fire to melt ; as soon
as it is hot, turn in the eggs and stir continually until they
are set. Serve immediately.
STUFFED EGGS
6 eggs i tablespoon ful of melted
i tablespoonful of tongue butter
or ham Salt and pepper to taste
Boil the eggs fifteen minutes. Cut them in halves length-
wise, take out the yolks carefully, mash them fine, add the
butter, the tongue or ham finely chopped, salt and pepper.
Rub together until smooth. Fill the hollowed whites with
this, and press the corresponding halves together. Dip
them first in egg, then in bread crumbs, then again in egg
and again in bread crumbs. Fry in boiling fat. Serve
hot with Cream Sauce poured around them. These are
delicious but are difficult to make.
PLAIN OMELET
Put three eggs into a bowl, and give them twelve good
vigorous beats with a fork. Put a piece of butter the size
of a walnut in a very smooth frying-pan, shake it over the
EGGS 259
fire until melted, but not brown, turn in the eggs and shake
over a quick fire until they are set ; sprinkle with salt and
pepper, roll and turn out on a hot dish. It is much easier
to make several small omelets than one large one.
BENGAL OMELET
6 eggs
i tablespoonful of Spanish onion, chopped fine
i tablespoonful of chopped parsley
Beat the eggs until thoroughly mixed, add the onion and
parsley, and make the same as a plain omelet ; dust with
salt and pepper, and serve.
HAM OMELET
Make the same as Plain Omelet, and as soon as it begins to
thicken, sprinkle over it three tablespoonfuls of .finely-
chopped ham ; roll, and serve.
Cheese, Parsley, Jelly and Chicken Omelets are made
in the same manner.
POTATO OMELET
Two boiled potatoes, chopped fine. Put a tablespoonful
of butter in a frying-pan ; and, when very hot, add the
potatoes. Shake over the fire until a nice brown ; then
sprinkle with chopped parsley, salt and pepper. Stand
them where they will keep warm until you make a plain
omelet. When the omelet is partly set, spread over the
potatoes, roll, and serve.
BREAD OMELET
3 eggs y<z cup of bread crumbs
% teaspoon ful of salt j^ cup of milk
i dash of black pepper Piece of butter, size of walnut
Beat the eggs separately. Add to the yolks the milk, salt,
pepper, and the bread crumbs. Now stir into this care-
fully the beaten whites ; mix very lightly. Put the butter
in a very smooth frying-pan ; as soon as hot, turn in the
mixture gently, and set it over a clear fire, being very care-
260 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
ful not to burn ; shake occasionally, to see that the omelet
does not stick, the same as Plain Omelet. Now stand
your frying-pan in the oven for a moment to set the middle
of the omelet. When done, toss it over on a warm platter
to bring the brown side of the omelet uppermost ; or, it
may be folded in half, and then turned out in the centre
of the platter. Serve immediately, or it will fall.
SPANISH OMELET
6 eggs 3 tablespoon fuls of milk
i medium-sized tomato 5 mushrooms
i small onion % pound of bacon
i dash of black pepper j teaspoon ful of salt
Cut the bacon into very small pieces and fry it until brown ;
then add to it the tomato, onion, and mushrooms chopped
fine ; stir and cook for fifteen minutes. Break the eggs in
a bowl, and give them twelve vigorous beats with a fork ;
add to them the salt and pepper. Now put a piece of
butter the size of a walnut in a smooth frying-pan, turn it
around so as to grease the bottom and sides. When the
butter is hot, pour in the eggs and shake over a quick fire
until they are set. Now quickly pour the mixture from
the other frying-pan over the omelet, fold it over once,
and turn it out in the centre of a heated platter, and serve
immediately.
OMELETTE SOUFFLEE
Whites of six eggs Yolks of three eggs
Juice of half a lemon 3 tablespoon fuls powdered sugar
First grease a quart baking-dish with butter, and then see
that the oven is hot. Now beat the whites to a very stiff
froth, beat the yolks, add them to the whites, then the sugar
and juice of lemon ; stir carefully, and quickly heap into the
baking-dish ; dredge with powdered sugar and put into the
oven. Bake fifteen minutes, or until a golden brown, and
serve immediately. It may also be baked in paper cases.
VEGETABLES
All green vegetables should be freshly gathered, washed
well in cold water, and cooked in freshly-boiled water until
tender, no longer. After water has boiled for a time it parts
with its gases and becomes hard, and most vegetables are
better cooked in soft water. It is a well-known fact that
split peas, dried beans and lentils do not boil soft in hard
water. The salts of lime, sulphate or gypsum coagulate
the casein which these seeds contain. In some cases, how-
ever, the solvent power of pure, soft water is so great that
it destroys the firmness, color and outside covering (skin)
of the green vegetables, and allows their juices to pass out
into the water. This is especially true of green peas and
beans. In these cases, therefore, hard water is better than
soft. A teaspoonful of common salt added to every gallon
of water hardens it at once. A half-teaspoonful of bi-car-
bonate of soda to every gallon of water renders it soft.
French books recommend the same quantity of carbonate
of ammonia for the latter purpose.
Young, green vegetables should be cooked in boiling
salted water. Onions, if boiled in pure, soft water, are
almost tasteless, and all the after-salting cannot restore to
them the sweet saline taste and the strong aroma which
they possess when boiled in hard water (salted).
262 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
If green vegetables are wilted, soak them for an hour
or two in clear, cold water ; never add salt, as it hardens
the tissues.
Peas, beans and lentils are the most nutritious of all
vegetable substances. They are said to contain as much
carbon (heat -giving food) as wheat, and almost double the
amount of nitrogen (muscle-forming food). The nitro-
genous element of these vegetables consists chiefly of veg-
etable casein.
Lentils afford the most concentrated form of vegetable
diet, and in olden times their nutritious value was fully
appreciated. Esau sold his birthright for a mess of red
lentil pottage. We read that the Pyramids were built by
men who lived on lentils, garlic and water. A dish served
to persons of distinction in the time of Pharaoh was com-
posed of lentils, and with this high reputation they are
almost unknown in this country, except to the Germans,
who use them for soup, which, though made entirely with-
out meat, is most nutritious.
The potato, next to wheat, is the most important food
derived from the vegetable kingdom. We may class it
among the starch vegetables. It contains but little muscle-
forming food, and therefore should be eaten with lean meats
or other nitrogenous food, supplying the elements wanting
in that food, and correcting the influence of a too-concen-
trated form of nutriment. Potatoes are three-fourths water ;
the remaining one-fourth contains a large proportion of
starch, with a small quantity of albumen, casein and gluten,
dissolved in its juices.
In the spring the sprouts begin to grow at the expense
of the starch in the potato; therefore, at this season they are
less mealy and nutritious. The sprouts should be rubbed
off as soon as they appear, or they will exhaust the starch.
When they are wilted in this way they are improved by
VEGETABLES 263
being soaked in cold water several hours before cooking,
and put on to boil in cold water.
The cooking of potatoes is indeed an art ; they are
dressed in some way in almost every family every day, and
no vegetable is so often poorly served. Observe the fol-
lowing rules and you will have no trouble :
1. Be careful in the choice of your potatoes; choose
those of medium size, free from blemishes and of a yellow-
ish-white color ; and, if possible, acquaint yourself with
the soil in which they were raised those from a rich,
heavy soil being fnore nutritious.
2. As the nutritious part of the potato lies near the
skin, if you pare at all, do it very sparingly. As it con-
tains potash, a constituent part of the blood, which is
soluble in water, we would advise boiling in the jacket.
3. If your potatoes are not wilted, put them on to boil
with just boiling water enough to cover them, place over a
moderate fire to boil slowly until nearly done, then throw in
a half-cup of cold water, which will chill the surface ; by this
you render the potato mealy throughout. Cook until soft
enough to admit a fork.
4. When done, drain off every drop of water, uncover
the saucepan, sprinkle the potatoes with salt, to absorb the
moisture, and stand on the back part of the stove to dry,
shaking them over, now and then, to expose every side of
the potato to the air. Remove the skins quickly.
5. Serve in an uncovered dish.
Potatoes are more wholesome baked than boiled.
Cabbage-leaves are rich in gluten, therefore very nu-
tritious. The mushroom, also, is said to contain 56 per
cent, of gluten, and dried cauliflower contains more than
either.
Turnips, carrots, parsnips, and beets contain very little
264 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
nourishment, but for this reason are valuable adjuncts to
concentrated food, and produce the necessary waste for
proper intestinal action.
FRENCH ARTICHOKES
French artichokes have a large, scaly head, like the cone of
a pine tree.
Strip off the coarse outer leaves, cut the stalks off about
an inch from the bottom, wash well in cold water, then
throw them in boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and
boil slowly until the outer leaves are tender ; then take
from the fire, put them upside down on a plate to drain.
Arrange in a circle upon a hot dish, the tops up, pour over
them Bechamel or sauce Hollandaise, and serve.
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES
Wash and scrape the artichokes, throw them into cold
water, and soak two hours, then cover them with boiling
water, and boil until tender ; watch closely, or they will
harden again. Serve with Cream Sauce.
PICKLED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES
Boil the artichokes as directed in preceding recipe, drain
and put them in a stone jar. To every quart of artichokes
allow one pint of cider vinegar, one bay leaf, one slice of
onion, four whole cloves, and a blade of mace. Put the
vinegar in a porcelain-lined kettle with all the other ingre-
dients, stand it over a moderate fire, and bring slowly to
boiling point, then pour it over the artichokes, and stand
away to cool.
They will be ready to use in twenty-four hours, and
will keep two weeks.
VEGETABLES 265
BOILED ASPARAGUS
Wash the asparagus carefully in cold water, and cut off the
tough white ends. Scrape the white part which remains,
and throw into cold water to soak for thirty minutes. Now
tie it in small bundles, and put it into a kettle of boiling
water, and boil for twenty minutes ; then add a teaspoonful
of salt, and boil ten minutes longer. While the asparagus
is boiling, toast squares of bread, cutting off the crust ; but-
ter while hot, and lay on a heated platter. Take up the as-
paragus, drain, cut the strings, and heap it on the toast, the
heads all one way. Put a tablespoonful of butter to melt,
add to it one tablespoonful of flour ; mix until smooth ;
now add a half-pint of the water in which the asparagus
was boiled, stir continually until it boils, season it with salt
and black pepper to taste, pour it over the asparagusj and
serve.
STEWED ASPARAGUS
Wash the asparagus well in cold water, then cut it in pieces
about an inch long, rejecting all the tougher parts. Put it
in a kettle, cover with boiling water, and boil thirty min-
utes ; then put it in a colander to drain. Now put it in a
saucepan, pour over it a half-pint of cream, add a table-
spoonful of butter, salt and black pepper ; let it boil up
once, and serve.
ASPARAGUS IN AMBUSH
i quart of asparagus tops i pint of milk
9 stale breakfast rolls 4 eggs
i large tablespoonful of butter
Salt and black pepper to taste
Wash the asparagus tops, boil fifteen minutes, and drain
them in a colander. Cut the tops off the rolls, and take
out the crumb, then set them open in the oven to dry, lay-
ing each top by the roll from which it was taken. Put the
266 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the eggs until
light, then stir them in the boiling milk, and stir until it be-
gins to thicken ; add the butter, salt, and pepper, and take
from the fire. Chop the asparagus tops, then add them to
the milk. Take the rolls from the oven, fill them with this
mixture, put on the tops, and serve hot. Good.
LIMA BEANS
Cover the beans with freshly-boiled soft water, and boil
thirty minutes; drain, add salt, pepper, and butter, or a
half-cup of boiling cream.
A sprig of mint may be boiled with the beans, and
removed befqre serving.
LIMA BEANS (DRIED)
Soak one pint of beans in warm water over night. In the
morning drain off this water, and cover with fresh warm
water. Two hours before dinner-time, drain again, cover
them with boiling soft water, and boil thirty minutes ; drain
again ; cover with fresh boiling soft water, and boil until
tender. Add a teaspoonful of salt after they have been
boiling an hour. When done, drain them, dredge with a
tablespoonful of flour ; add one tablespoonful of butter, a
half-pint of cream, salt and pepper to taste ; or, they may be
served with butter, salt, and pepper.
All shelled beans, such as butter, kidney, and the
small French beans, are cooked the same as lima beans.
STRING BEANS
Break the blossom end of the bean, and pull it back to
remove the string. Then pare a thin strip from the other
edge of the pod. In this way only are you sure that every
string is removed. Cut the beans into pieces an inch long,
and lay them in clear, cold water for thirty minutes. Drain
VEGETABLES 267
them, put into a saucepan, cover with boiling water, and
boil one hour. Drain ; stir into them one tablespoonful
of butter ; salt and pepper to taste.
A half-pound of ham may be cut into" pieces and boiled
with the beans to give them flavor.
BEAN POLENTA
i pint of small white soup beans
\y 2 tablespoon fuls of molasses
y 2 teaspoon ful of French mustard
i tablespoonful of butter
i tablespoonful of vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the beans, and soak them over night in lukewarm
water. In the morning, drain off this water, cover with
fresh, cold water, bring slowly to a boil, and boil slowly
one hour ; drain again, cover with one quart of fresh
boiling water, and boil slowly another hour. When done,
press through a colander, return to the kettle, add the but-
ter, molasses, mustard, salt, pepper, and vinegar ; stir, and
boil ten minutes. Serve in a vegetable tureen.
BEAN CROQUETTES
i pint of white soup beans i tablespoonful of molasses
i tablespoonful of vinegar i tablespoonful of butter
Salt and cayenne to taste
Boil the beans as directed in preceding recipe. When
done, drain, and press the beans through a colander, then
add the other ingredients, mix well and stand away to cool.
When cold, form into small balls, dip first in egg and then
in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat.
PUREE OF BEANS
i quart of dried beans i pound of ham
i bay leaf i onion
i carrot i tablespoonful of butter
Salt and pepper to taste
268 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Wash and soak the beans in lukewarm water over night.
In the morning, drain, cover with fresh cold water, boil one
hour, drain again, and just cover again with fresh boil-
ing water, add a quarter-teaspoonful of bicarbonate of
soda, the ham, bay leaf, onion and carrot; boil until they
will mash easily under light pressure. When done, remove
the ham and press the beans through a colander. Return
them to the kettle, add the butter and sufficient cream to
make the puree the desired thickness. Season with salt and
pepper, let boil up once, and serve.
Purees of dried peas, lentils and split peas are made
the same as puree of dried beans.
BOILED BEETS
Wash carefully, but do not cut or scrape them. If the
skin is broken before cooking, they lose their flavor and
color in the boiling water. Young beets will cook tender
in one hour. Old ones will require four hours. If very
tough and wilted they will never become tender. When
done, throw them into a pan of cold water and quickly
rub off the skins. Cut them in slices, pour over them a
tablespoonful of melted butter, dust with salt and pepper,
and they are ready to serve.
The cold ones left over may be covered with cold vine-
gar and used as pickles.
BROCCOLI
Pick off the leaves and cut the stalk close to the bottom of
the bunch. Lay in cold water half an hour. Tie it in a
cheese-cloth to prevent breaking; put into a kettle of salted
boiling water, and boil rapidly twenty minutes. Take it
out carefully, untie the cheese-cloth, lay the broccoli in a
hot dish, pour over it a half-pint of Cream Sauce, and it is
ready to serve.
VEGETABLES 269
BRUSSELS SPROUTS
i quart of sprouts i tablespoonful of salt
YV gallon of water
Pick off all the dead leaves from the sprouts, wash them in
cold water, then put them into the water, which must
be boiling, add the salt and a quarter-teaspoon ful of
bicarbonate of soda. Boil rapidly, with the saucepan un-
covered, twenty minutes, then drain in a colander, and
serve in a heated dish with a sauceboat of Drawn Butter.
BOILED CABBAGE
Select a heavy white head. Remove the outside leaves,
cut in quarters and soak in cold water one hour, then drain
and cover with boiling water, let stand fifteen minutes;
drain again, and press out all the water. Now put the
cabbage in a kettle nearly filled with boiling water ; add a
teaspoonful of salt, and a small piece of a Chili pepper;
cover and boil one hour, if the cabbage is young ; two hours,
if old. The Chili pepper is supposed to diminish the un-
pleasant odor.
CORNED BEEF AND CABBAGE
Wash the meat in cold water. Put it in a large kettle and
cover with cold water. Simmer gently for two hours. In
the meantime, remove the outside leaves from a hard white
head of cabbage, cut it in quarters and soak in cold water
one hour. After the meat has been simmering two hours,
add the cabbage, and simmer one and a half hours longer.
When done, put the meat in the centre of a large dish with
the cabbage around it. Serve with it tomato catsup, mus-
tard or horseradish.
STEWED CABBAGE
Cut a small head of cabbage in halves, soak in cold water
one hour, then drain and shake dry. Remove the stalk or
270 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
hard part, and chop the remainder very fine. Put it in a
stewing-pan with boiling water enough to cover, and boil
twenty minutes. Drain in a colander. Turn into a heated
dish, and pour over it Cream Sauce.
STUFFED CABBAGE
For this select a nice head of Savoy cabbage. Pour over
it boiling water, let stand fifteen minutes, drain, scald again
and let stand thirty minutes. Drain and shake until dry.
Make the stuffing as follows : Wash two heaping tablespoon-
fuls of rice in cold water, then mix it with a half-pound of
sausage meat, add a tablespoonful of onion and a table-
spoonful of chopped parsley ; mix all well together. Open
the cabbage carefully to the very centre ; put in a half-tea-
spoonful of the mixture, fold over two or three of the little
leaves ; now cover these with a layer of the mixture, fold
over this the next layer of leaves, and so on until each
layer is stuffed. Press all firmly together, tie in a piece of
cheese-cloth, put it into a kettle of salted boiling water,
and boil two hours. When done, carefully remove the
cloth, stand the cabbage in a deep round dish, pour over it
Cream Sauce, and serve very hot.
RED CABBAGE a la FLAMANDE
Take off the outer leaves of a hard head of red cabbage
and cut it in quarters. Scald, drain, and chop fine. Put it
into a stewing-pan with a tablespoonful of butter, one
onion, one bay leaf, two cloves, a teaspoon ful of salt, and
a small piece of Chili pepper. Simmer slowly for one hour,
stirring occasionally. Take out the bay leaf, add a table-
spoonful of fresh butter, and serve.
SAUERKRAUT
Shred the cabbage fine. Line the bottom and sides of a
small keg with the green cabbage leaves, put in a layer of
VEGETABLES 271
the cabbage about three inches thick, cover with four
ounces of salt and pound down well, then another layer of
cabbage and salt, and so on until the keg is full. Put a board
on top of the cabbage, and on this a heavy weight, and
stand in a moderately warm place to ferment. The cabbage
sinks when the fermentation begins, and the liquor rises to
the surface over the cover. Skim off the scum and stand
the keg in a cool, dry cellar, and it is ready to use. Cover
it closely each time any is taken out. When you use it,
wash it in warm water, and boil it with corned beef or salt
pork the same as cabbage.
KOHL-RABI
Kohl-rabi, or kale-turnip, as it is sometimes called, is a
cultivated variety of kale or cabbage, distinguished by the
swelling of the stem, just above the ground, in a turnip
form, to the size of a man's fist ; the larger leaf-stalks
springing from the swollen part. This swollen part is used
for food. It may be served according to any of the recipes
given for turnips ; or, uncooked in slices the same as
radishes.
STEWED CARROTS
3 good-sized carrots i teaspoonful of salt
i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour
y^ pint of milk Salt and pepper to taste
Pare and quarter the carrots. Put them in a saucepan and
cover them with boiling water ; add the salt and let them
boil one hour and a half. When done, drain, place them
on a hot dish, and stand over boiling water to keep warm.
Now put the butter in a frying-pan, let it melt ; add the
flour, and mix. Do not brown. Now add the milk, salt
and pepper. Stir until it boils, and is smooth. Pour over
the carrots, and serve.
272 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
BOILED CAULIFLOWER
Pick off the outer leaves and cut off the stem close to the
bottom ot the flowerets. Wash well in cold water, then
soak with the top downward in clear, cold water for one
hour. Then tie it in a piece of cheese-cloth, to prevent
breaking. Stand it in a kettle of boiling water with the
stem downward, add a teaspoonful of salt, cover the kettle,
and boil twenty or thirty minutes, until the cauliflower is
tender. When done, lift it carefully from the water, undo
the cloth, and stand the cauliflower in a round, shallow
dish, stem downward. Pour over it Cream Sauce, and serve.
STEWED CAULIFLOWER
Choose those that are close and white. Pick off the outer
leaves and break apart. Wash, and soak in cold water for
a half-hour. Then put in a kettle of boiling water, add a
teaspoonful of salt, and boil briskly until the stalks feel
tender (about twenty minutes). When done, take up with
a skimmer, that you may not break it. Toast squares of
bread, butter them while hot, arrange the cauliflower neatly
on them, and serve with Allemande sauce.
CAULIFLOWER au GRATIN
Boil the cauliflower as directed in recipe for Boiled Cauli-
flower. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan ;
when melted, add a tablespoonful of flour; mix until
smooth, add a half-pint of milk ; stir continually until it
boils ; add a half-teaspoon ful of salt and four tablespoon-
fuls of grated cheese (Parmesan is best), pour this over the
cauliflower, and serve.
VEGETABLES 273
STEWED CELERY
The green stalks that are not attractive on the table may
be used in this way :
Scrape and wash them clean. Cut in pieces one inch
long, and soak in cold water for fifteen minutes ; then put
them into a saucepan of boiling water, add a teaspoon ful
of salt, and boil thirty minutes, or until tender. When
done, drain in a colander and throw into cold water while
you make the sauce. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a
frying-pan ; and, when melted, add one tablespoonful of
flour; mix until smooth ; add a half-pint of milk, and stir
continually until it boils ; then add three tablespoon fuls of
the water in which the celery was boiled, salt, and white
pepper to taste. Add the celery to this sauce, stir until
thoroughly heated through, and it is ready to serve.
CELERY au JUS
Scrape and wash the celery. Cut it in pieces one inch
long ; then put in a saucepan, cover with boiling stock,
add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil thirty minutes. Put
one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan and stir until a
dark brown ; add to it one tablespoonful of flour, mix until
smooth. Drain the celery, then add a half-pint of the
liquor in which it was boiled to the butter and flour ; stir
continually until it boils, then add salt and pepper to taste.
Put the celery in a heated dish, pour over it the sauce, and
serve.
CELERY ROOT
Pare one dozen celery roots, throw them in cold water and
soak a half-hour. Then put them in a saucepan of boiling
water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil thirty minutes,
or until tender. When done, drain and cut into slices.
Cover with Cream Sauce, and serve.
274 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
STEWED CHESTNUTS
Remove the shells from one pint of chestnuts, cover with
boiling water and let blanch fifteen minutes, then remove
the brown skin. Put them in a saucepan, cover with boil-
ing water, boil fifteen minutes ; then add a half-teaspoonful
of salt and boil ten minutes longer, or until you can pierce
them with a fork. When done, drain, turn into a heated
dish, pour over them Cream Sauce, and serve.
BOILED CHESTNUTS
Prepare and boil one pint of chestnuts as directed in pre-
ceding recipe. When done, drain, mash fine, and press
through a colander ; add a tablespoonful of butter, salt
and pepper to taste. Serve the same as mashed potatoes.
CHESTNUTS WITH BROWN SAUCE
Remove the shells from one pint of chestnuts, cover them
with boiling water and blanch fifteen minutes, then peel off
the thin, brown skin. Put them into a saucepan, cover
with boiling stock, and boil thirty minutes, or until you
can pierce them with a fork. When done, drain, and save
the stock in which they were boiled. Put one tablespoon-
ful of butter into a frying-pan to brown ; when brown, add
one tablespoonful of flour, mix until smooth ; then add a
half-pint of the stock in which the chestnuts were boiled,
stir continually until it boils, add salt and pepper to taste,
pour over the chestnuts, and serve.
PUREE OF CHESTNUTS
i quart of chestnuts i tablespoonful of butter
i quart of water or stock Salt and pepper to taste
Shell the chestnuts, throw them into boiling water until the
skins come off easily ; then drain and remove the brown
skin. Put them in a saucepan with the water or stock, and
VEGETABLES 275
boil gently for a half-hour, or until they will mash easily
under pressure. Then press them through a colander,
return them to the saucepan, add the butter, salt and pep-
per, stir until it boils, and it is ready to serve.
CORN BOILED ON THE COB
Corn should be cooked as quickly as possible after picking,
as it heats, and loses its sweetness. If necessary to keep
over night, spread it out singly on the cold cellar floor.
When ready to cook, remove the husks and every thread of
silk. Put in a kettle of boiling water, and boil rapidly,
after it begins to boil, five minutes. When done, take out
with a skimmer, heap on a platter, and serve immediately.
TO EAT
Score every row of grains with a sharp knife, spread lightly
with butter, dust with salt, and with the teeth press out the
centre of the grain leaving the hull on the cob. Thus eaten
it will cause no trouble, as the hull is the only indigestible
part.
CORN BOILED IN THE HUSKS
Remove the green outside husks, leaving the cob well cov-
ered with the inner light husks. Throw into a kettle of
boiling water, and boil rapidly, after it begins to boil, ten
minutes. When done, take out, drain, pull the silk from
the end of the cob, and serve in the husks.
CORN FRITTERS
1 dozen ears of corn ^ pint of milk
2 eggs i cup of flour
i teaspoonful of baking- J^ teaspoonful of salt
powder 2 dashes of black pepper
Score the corn down the centre of each row of grains, then
with the back of the knife press out the pulp, leaving the
276 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
hull on the cob. Do not grate the corn, as in that way
you get the hull. To this pulp add the milk, the yolks of
the eggs, salt, pepper and flour ; beat well. Beat the whites
of the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir them and the baking-
powder carefully into the mixture. Put lard or dripping
into a frying-pan ; when hot, drop the mixture by spoon-
fuls into the deep fat. When brown on one side, turn and
brown the other. Take out with a skimmer (do not pierce
them with a fork, as it makes them heavy), drain on brown
paper, and serve very hot.
Canned corn may be used, allowing one pint finely
chopped.
CORN OYSTERS
Score and press the corn as directed in preceding recipe,
and to every pint of pulp allow
2 eggs y 2 teaspoonful of salt
2 heaping tablespoon fuls i dash of cayenne
of flour i dash of black pepper
Beat the eggs separately ; add first the yolks and then the
whites to the corn, mix gently, add the salt, cayenne, pep-
per, and flour ; mix again. Put two tablespoonfuls of lard
or butter in a frying-pan ; when hot, drop the mixture
by spoonfuls into it ; when brown on one side, turn and
brown the other. Serve very hot.
CORN PUDDING
i dozen large ears of young corn i pint of milk
4 eggs i teaspoonful of salt
% teaspoonful of black pepper
Score the corn down the centre of each row of grains,
then with the back of the knife press out all the pulp,
leaving the hull on the cob. Beat the whites and yolks
of the eggs separately, add the yolks to the corn, mix
thoroughly ; then add the salt, pepper and milk, and stir in
VEGETABLES 277
carefully the whites of the eggs. Brush a pudding dish lightly
with butter, and pour in the mixture. Bake slowly one
hour. Serve as an accompaniment to roast beef or lamb.
SUCCOTASH
i pint of young lima or kidney beans
i pint of corn pressed from the cob
^ pint of milk or cream
i tablespoonful of butter
Salt and pepper to taste
Shell the beans, cover them with boiling water, add a
teaspoonful of salt, and boil twenty-five minutes; then
add an eighth-teaspoon ful of baking-soda, boil one
minute, and drain. Score the corn and press it from the
cob, add it to the beans, then add the milk, butter, salt,
and pepper, stir continually over the fire for five minutes,
and it is ready to serve.
In winter, when the corn and beans are dried, soak
both separately over night. In the morning, cover the
beans with fresh water and boil gently for two hours. Do
not drain the water from the corn, but keep it on the back
part of the fire where it will not boil during the two hours
the beans are boiling. When the beans are tender, drain
them, add them to the corn, which should have just water
enough to cover. Cook slowly for twenty minutes, then
add the cream, butter, salt, and pepper.
This may also be made from canned corn and beans.
TO COOK CANNED CORN
Open the top of the can with a can-opener, turn out the
corn into a saucepan, add to it a quarter-cup of cream, a
tablespoonful of butter, and salt and pepper to taste; stir
over the fire until very hot, and it is ready to serve.
278 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
TO DRY CORN
Remove the husks and silk from the cob, score the corn
down the centre of each row of grains, then, with the back
of the knife, press out all the pulp, leaving the hull on the
cob. Spread this pulp on tin sheets or baking-pans, and
dry in a very moderate oven. Watch carefully, or the corn
will brown ; stir three or four times while drying. If the
oven is just right it will take about three hours to dry.
When dry, put into bags and hang away in a cool, dry
place.
TO COOK DRIED CORN
Cover one pint of corn with warm water and stand it on
the back part of the fire over night. In the morning, if it
has absorbed all the water, add more, and cook slowly two
hours, or until you are ready to use ; then add salt, pepper,
a tablespoonful of butter, and a half-pint of cream.
COLD CORN
Cold corn left from dinner may be cut from the cob,
covered with milk, and stewed five minutes. Season with
a bit of butter, salt and pepper.
CORN SALAD
Corn salad may be washed, cooked and served the same as
spinach.
STEWED CUCUMBERS No. i
6 cucumbers i small onion
i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour
YZ pint of stock or water Salt and pepper to taste
Pare the cucumbers, cut them in quarters, remove the
seeds. Put the butter into a frying-pan, add to it the
onion cut in slices, fry until brown, then add the cucum-
bers, and fry carefully until a light brown ; take them out
VEGETABLES 279
with a slice, add the flour to the butter remaining in the
pan, mix until smooth ; add the stock, stir continually until
it boils, add the salt and pepper, then the cucumbers, and
stew gently for twenty minutes. Serve on squares of
toasted bread.
STEWED CUCUMBERS No. 2
6 cucumbers 2 tablespoon fuls of butter
i tablespoonful of flour ^ pint of boiling water
Salt and pepper to taste
Pare the cucumbers, cut them in quarters, remove the
seeds, and soak them in cold water for a half-hour. Then
put them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add a
teaspoonful of salt, and boil until tender (about thirty
minutes). When done, drain, turn them carefully into a
vegetable dish, pour drawn butter over them, and serve.
FRIED CUCUMBERS
Pare the cucumbers, cut them into slices about one-sixteenth
of an inch thick, season them with salt and pepper, dip
them first in egg and then in bread crumbs. Put two table-
spoonfuls of lard or dripping into a frying-pan ; when hot,
put in a few slices of the cucumbers; when brown and
crisp on one side, turn and brown the other. Take out
carefully, drain on brown paper, and serve very hot.
CUCUMBERS FRIED IN BATTER
Pare "three cucumbers, cut them in slices about one-sixteenth
of an inch thick, dredge them with salt and pepper, and let
them lie fifteen minutes. Beat one egg (the white and yolk
together) until light ; add to it a half-pint of milk, a half-
teaspoonful of salt, two dashes of black pepper, and a cup
and a half of sifted flour ; beat until smooth. Dip the
pieces of cucumbers into this batter, and fry in boiling fat
280 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
or oil. The fat must be deep enough to float them. When
done, take them out with a skimmer (piercing them with a
fork will make them fall), drain them on brown paper, and
serve very hot.
BOILED DANDELIONS
Use the first shoots of the dandelions. They are not fit for
food after they blossom, as they then become bitter and
stringy. Cut off the roots, pick them over carefully, and
wash well in several waters ; then put them in a saucepan,
cover with boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil
one hour. When done, drain and chop fine ; then put them
in a frying-pan, add a tablespoonful of butter, salt and pep-
per to taste ; stir until thoroughly heated, and serve with Egg
Sauce.
WILTED DANDELIONS
Cut the roots from a quarter-peck of dandelions, wash
the leaves through several cold waters, drain and shake
until dry. Take a handful of the leaves and cut them with
a sharp knife into small pieces, and so continue until you
have them all cut. Beat one egg until light, add to it a
half-cup of cream, and stir over the fire until it thickens ;
then add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, two table-
spoonfuls of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Now put
the dandelions into this, and stir over the fire until they are
all wilted and tender. Serve hot.
SOUR OR NARROW DOCK
This is a common weed in our rich ground and pastures.
The leaves are long, narrow, and curly, and may be cooked
the same as spinach. It is supposed to possess an alterative
property forming an excellent diet in scorbutic cases.
VEGETABLES 281
FRIED EGG-PLANT No. i
Pare the egg-plant, and cut in very thin slices. Sprinkle
each slice with salt and pepper, pile them evenly, put a tin
plate over them, and on this stand a flat-iron to press out
the juice. Let stand one hour. Beat an egg lightly, and
add to it a tablespoonful of boiling water, dip each slice
first in this and then in bread crumbs. Put three table-
spoonfuls of lard or dripping in a frying-pan ; when hot,
saute the slices, a few at a time, brown one side, then turn
and brown the other. As the fat is consumed, add more,
waiting each time for it to heat before putting in the egg-
plant. Drain on brown paper, and serve very hot.
Tomato catsup should be served with it.
FRIED EGG-PLANT No. 2
Pare the egg-plant, and cut it in slices about a quarter of
an inch thick, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge thickly
with flour, and saute as directed in preceding recipe.
BAKED EGG-PLANT
Wash the egg-plant, put it in a kettle, cover with boiling
water, and boil until tender (about a half-hour), then take
it out carefully, cut it in half, and scoop out the soft por-
tion, leaving the skin unbroken. Mash the egg-plant fine,
add to it a large tablespoonful of butter, salt and pepper to
taste. Mix well, and put back into the skin. Sprinkle the
top lightly with bread crumbs, and put in the oven to brown.
ENDIVE
Endive may be wilted the same as dandelions or lettuce.
BOILED HOMINY
Wash one pint of the large white hominy in cold water,
then cover with tepid soft water, and soak over night. In
the morning, turn the hominy and the water into a sauce-
282 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
pan, and boil slowly for five hours. When done, drain in
a colander, turn into a heated vegetable dish, and stir in a
large tablespoonful of butter ; add salt and pepper to taste.
GRITS OR SMALL HOMINY
Wash a half-pint of grits through several cold waters ; then
put it in a farina boiler, cover with cold water, and soak
over night. In the morning, add a pint of milk, and boil
one hour ; then add a teaspoonful of salt, mix carefully,
and serve for breakfast with sugar and cream.
FRIED GRITS
Wash a half-pint of grits in cold water ; then cover with
one quart of tepid water, and soak over night. In the
morning, turn it into a farina boiler and boil one hour;
season with salt and pepper to taste ; then pour into a
square mould and stand away to cool. When cold, cut in
slices, dust each slice with flour, and fry in fresh dripping or
lard until a light brown.
HOMINY CROQUETTES
Hominy croquettes may be made precisely the same as Rice
Croquettes, using two cups of grits instead of one cup of
rice.
KALE
Kale may be cooked and served the same as spinach.
LENTILS
Wash and soak a pint of lentils over night. In the morn-
ing, drain and cover with warm soft water, and bring
quickly to a boil. Boil gently for one hour, drain, cover
again with fresh boiling soft water, and boil gently until
tender (about one and one-half hours longer). Take out
one or two ; if they mash quickly under pressure, they are
done. Drain in a colander. Put two tablespoonfuls of
VEGETABLES 283
butter in a frying-pan ; when melted, add the lentils, salt
and pepper, and stir over the fire for fifteen minutes, and
they are ready to serve.
LENTILS AND RICE
Boil the lentils as directed in the preceding recipe. Wash
and boil one cup of rice. Put two tablespoon fuls of butter
in a frying-pan ; when melted, add one onion cut in slices,
then the lentils and rice, and stir over the fire fifteen min-
utes ; add salt and pepper to taste, and serve.
LENTIL ROLLS
y? cup of lentils ^ cup of chopped uncooked
y 2 cup of rice veal or chicken
YV cup of chopped ham % teaspoon ful of powdered
1 2 nice vine leaves coriander seed
Salt and cayenne to taste
Boil the lentils as directed in the preceding recipe, then
drain, and mix with the rice (well washed), ham, veal, or
chicken, coriander seed, salt, and cayenne. Scald the vine
leaves, and shake carefully, to dry. Put two tablespoon fuls
of the mixture in each leaf, roll loosely, allowing room for
the rice to swell, and tie with darning cotton. Lay these
rolls in the bottom of a large saucepan, cover with stock ;
add one bay leaf, a small onion cut in slices, four cloves,
and a blade of mace ; cover the saucepan, and stew slowly
for three-quarters of an hour. When done, take out care-
fully with aslice, remove the strings, and arrange the rolls
neatly on a heated dish. Put one tablespoonful of butter
in a frying-pan ; when melted, add one tablespoonful of
flour ; mix until smooth ; then add a half-pint of the stock
in which the rolls were boiled ; stir continually until it boils,
add salt and pepper to taste. Take from the fire, add the
well-beaten yolk of one egg and a tablespoon ful of tarragon
vinegar. Pour it over the rolls, and serve.
284 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
DUTCHED LETTUCE
Wash carefully two heads of lettuce, separate the leaves,
and tear each leaf in two or three pieces. Cut a quarter-
pound of ham or bacon into dice, and fry until brown;
while hot, add two tablespoon fuls of vinegar. Beat one
egg until light, add to it two tablespoon fuls of sour cream,
then add it to the ham, stir over the fire one minute until
it thickens, and pour, boiling hot, over the lettuce; mix
carefully with a fork, and serve immediately.
MUSHROOMS
It is highly important for those who employ mushrooms as
food, to be able to distinguish those which are edible from
the poisonous ones. The edible appear in old sod, in a
clear, open, sunny field. They are at first very small on a
short foot stalk, and are then known as button mushrooms.
Their growth is rapid; in an hour the under skin cracks
and the mushroom then opens, spreading like an umbrella,
and shows the gills underneath, which should be a pale
salmon color. In an hour or so it changes to a dark brown,
and is then called "old." According to M. Richard,
even mushrooms which are usually edible may prove poison-
ous, if collected too late, or in places which are too moist.
The skin of the good mushrooms peels off easily.
Those with yellow or white gills, and those which grow in
low, damp, shady places, or around decayed stumps of old
trees, or any other decayed matter, are to be avoided.
The good mushrooms have invariably an agreeable
smell, while the poisonous have a rank putrid smell. It is
always safe to use the canned mushrooms, which are con-
venient and cheap, but tough and indigestible, and we cau-
tion those who eat them to masticate diligently.
VEGETABLES 285
It is said that one poisonous mushroom among a pint
of good ones, will turn a silver spoon black, if stirred with
it while they are stewing
DRIED MUSHROOMS
Wipe the mushrooms clean, and peel off the skin. Cover
the bottoms of shallow baking-pans with white paper, put
the mushrooms in a single layer on this, and stand in a cool
oven to dry. When dry and shriveled, take them out, put
in paper bags, and hang in a cool, dry place.
When wanted for use, put them in cold water or milk,
and bring slowly to a simmer. In this way they will regain
nearly their natural size and flavor.
STEWED MUSHROOMS No. I
Peel the mushrooms, wash them in cold water and cut off
the bottom of the stalks. Then put them in a porcelain
saucepan ; to every pint of mushrooms, add one tablespoon-
ful of butter rolled in flour. Let the mushrooms cook in
their own liquor and the butter for fifteen minutes, then add
salt and pepper, and serve immediately.
STEWED MUSHROOMS No. 2
Peel the mushrooms, wash them in cold water and cut off
the bottom of the stalks. Then put them into a porcelain-
lined kettle; to every pint of mushrooms add a tablespoon-
ful of butter divided into four bits and rolled in flour.
Let the mushrooms cook in their own liquor with the butter
and flour for fifteen minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls
of thick cream, salt and pepper to taste. Take from the
fire, add the well-beaten yolk of one egg, and, if you use
it, one tablespoonful of sherry. Serve immediately.
286 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
TO STEW CANNED MUSHROOMS
i can of mushrooms i tablespoonful of butter
Yolk of one egg ^ pint of milk
i tablespoonful of sherry, Salt and pepper to taste
if you use it (white is the best)
i tablespoonful of flour
Drain the mushrooms. Put the butter in a porcelain or
granite saucepan, add to it the flour, mix until smooth;
add the milk, and stir continually until it boils; then add
the mushrooms, salt and pepper, stir until thoroughly
heated. Take from the fire, add the well-beaten yolk of
the egg, and the wine, then serve.
In cooking canned mushrooms, do not boil, as they
are already cooked, and the second boiling toughens them.
BAKED MUSHROOMS
For this, choose the larger mushrooms. Peel, cut off the
stalks close to the top, place them upside down in a pie
dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and put a tiny piece of
butter in each rnusi.. jom. Bake in a quick oven twenty
minutes, basting two or three times with a little melted
butter. Serve hot on the dish in which they were baked.
BROILED MUSHROOMS
For this, choose the largest mushrooms you can get. Peel,
cut off the stalks close to the top, baste them well with
melted butter, dust lightly with salt and pepper, and let
them stand a half-hour. Then place them in a wire broiler,
close the broiler very carefully so as not to break them,
broil them over a clear fire, first on one side and then on
the other. Open the broiler, remove them carefully with
a spoon, place them on small squares of buttered toast,
pour on a little melted butter, and serve.
VEGETABLES 287
BOILED OKRA
i quart of young white okra
i tablespoon ful of butter
i tablespoon ful of vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the okra well in cold water, put into a porcelain-lined
or granite kettle (an iron kettle discolors the okra) with a
half-pint of water and a teaspoon ful of salt. Cover the
kettle and simmer gently thirty minutes; then add the but-
ter, vinegar, and pepper, and more salt if necessary, boil
up once and serve.
OKRA STEWED WITH TOMATOES
i quart of okra i pint of tomatoes
i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the okra, and cut in thin slices. Peel the tomatoes,
and cut in slices. Put both in a porcelain-lined or granite
kettle, add one teaspoon ful of salt, cover the kettle, and
simmer gently for a half-hour; then add the butter and
pepper, and more salt if necessary.
STEWED OKRA WITH RICE
i quart of okra i cup of rice
1/2, pound of ham i onion
i red pepper i tablespoonful of powdered
i pint of white stock dry sassafras leaves
i pint of tomatoes
Wash the okra, and cut in thin slices. Cut the ham into
dice and fry it until brown. Peel and cut the tomatoes,
put them into a porcelain-lined or granite kettle with the
okra, ham, stock, the pepper cut in small pieces, and onion
cut in slices ; cover the kettle, and simmer gently for a half-
hour. While this cooks, wash and boil the rice. When
the okra is done, add the salt, pepper and sassafras leaves
(called filee), let it boil up once, and serve with the rice
around the dish.
288 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
BOILED ONIONS
i dozen onions i tablespoon ful of butter
i tablespoonful of flour y z pint of milk
Salt and pepper to taste
Put the onions into cold water and remove the skins. Put
them into a saucepan of boiling water, add a teaspoonful
of salt, and boil until you can pierce them easily with a
fork (about forty minutes); then drain, and turn carefully
into a heated vegetable dish. Put the butter into a frying-
pan ; when melted, add the flour, mix until smooth ; then
add the milk, and stir continually until it boils ; add salt
and pepper, and pour over the onions.
FRIED ONIONS
Cover the onions with cold water and remove the skins.
Cut them in slices, cover with boiling water, add a tea-
spoonful of salt, and boil twenty minutes ; drain, add a
large tablespoonful of butter to the onions and fry for a
half-hour, stirring frequently ; add salt and pepper, and
serve.
BAKED ONIONS
Choose large, perfect onions for this purpose. Trim the
bottoms, but do not peel them. Throw them into a kettle
of boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil rapidly
one hour ; then drain in a colander. Take each one out
separately, wipe it dry, roll in a square of tissue paper, and
twist at the top to keep it closed. Now place them in a
baking-pan, and bake in a slow oven one hour. When
done, take off the papers, peel the onions, put them into a
vegetable dish, and pour melted butter over them. Dust
with salt and pepper, and serve.
Spanish onions are particularly nice served in this way.
VEGETABLES 289
STEWED ONIONS
Cover the onions with cold water and remove the skins.
Put them into a saucepan, cover with stock, and stew slowly,
one hour if young and two if old, or until they are very
tender. When done, drain, and turn carefully into a veg-
etable dish. Put one tablespoon ful of butter in a frying-
pan, and stir until brown ; then add one tablespoon ful of
flour, mix well, and add a half-pint of the stock in which
the onions were boiled ; stir continually until it boils, add
salt and pepper to taste, pour over the onions, and serve.
BOILED PARSNIPS WITH CREAM SAUCE
If the parsnips are young, scrape and throw into cold water;
if old, pare and cut in quarters. Put them into a sauce-
pan of boiling water and boil until tender (if young, three-
quarters of an hour; if old, one and a quarter hours).
When done, drain them, lay them on a heated dish, heads
all one way, cover with Cream Sauce or Drawn Butter, and
serve with corned beef or boiled salt fish.
FRIED PARSNIPS
Boil the parsnips as directed in the preceding recipe.
When done, drain, season with salt and pepper, dip first in
melted butter and then in flour. Put two tablespoonfuls
of dripping in a frying-pan; and, when hot, put in enough
parsnips to cover the bottom of the pan. Fry brown on
all sides. ,
PARSNIP FRITTERS
4 good-sized parsnips i tablespoon ful of flour
1 e gg
Boil the parsnips as directed in preceding recipe. When
done, drain, and mash fine ; add to them a half-teaspoonful
of salt, the flour, the egg well beaten, and a dash of black
pepper ; mix well and form in small cakes. Put two large
290 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
tablespoonfuls of dripping in a frying-pan; and, when hot,
fry the cakes, brown on one side, then turn and brown the
other. Drain on brown paper, and serve.
STEWED PARSNIPS
6 good-sized parsnips i teaspoonful of salt
Wash and scrape the parsnips, cut them in halves and
throw them in cold water for a half-hour. Then put them
in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add the salt, and
boil for one hour. Take them up on a hot dish and pour
over them the following sauce: Put one tablespoonful of
butter in a frying-pan with one tablespoonful of flour, and
mix until smooth; then add a half-pint of the water in
which the parsnips were boiled. Stir and boil for five
minutes, add salt and pepper, and serve.
GREEN PEAS
Peas, like corn, lose their sweetness almost as soon as they
are picked. If you should be so unfortunate as to get
stale or wilted peas, shell and throw them into cold water
one hour before cooking, and add a teaspoonful of sugar
to the water in which they are boiled.
Fresh peas should not be shelled until just before the
the time of cooking ; then wash them quickly in cold
water, drain, throw into a kettle of boiling water, add a
teaspoonful of salt to harden the water. This will prevent
the skins from cracking. Boil rapidly from ten to twenty
minutes. After they have been boiling ten minutes, take
out one or two and press with a fork ; if they mash easily
they are done. Drain, turn into a hot dish, add a lump
of butter the size of a walnut, and serve.
VEGETABLES 291
The great point in cooking peas is to have plenty of
water, boil rapidly and drain as soon as they are done.
Peas cooked in this way will retain their color and sweet-
ness.
TO COOK CANNED PEAS
After opening the can, drain the peas free from all liquor.
Turn them into a saucepan, and to every pint-can add a
piece of butter the size of a walnut ; salt and pepper to
taste ; stir gently until thoroughly heated, and serve at
once.
PUREE OF PEAS
i quart of green peas or i pint of milk
two pint cans i pint of water
i tablespoonful of butter i tablespoonful of flour
1 bay leaf i onion
2 cloves i sprig of parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the peas in cold water ; then put them in a saucepan
with the water and boil twenty minutes. When done they
should be almost dry. Press through a colander. Put the
milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Add the bay leaf, onion,
cloves and parsley. Rub the butter and flour together
until smooth. Strain the milk into the peas, then return
to the farina boiler, stir in the butter and flour, and stir
continually until it boils and thickens; then add the salt
and pepper, and serve.
Puree of lima, or any other green beans, may be
made according to this recipe.
POKE STALKS
In the spring the young shoots are much used as food.
They should not be over four inches long, and should show
only a tuft of leaves at the top. Older than this they are
poisonous.
292 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Wash and lay in cold water for one hour ; then tie in
bundles, as you do asparagus. Put it into a kettle of boiling
water and boil three-quarters of an hour ; drain, lay on
buttered toast, dust with salt and pepper, cover with Drawn
Butter, and serve.
STEAMED POTATOES
Wash and scrub the potatoes well, place them in a steamer
or colander over a kettle of boiling water ; cover and
steam until you can pierce with a fork ; it takes a little
longer to steam than boil, but the potato, being naturally
watery, should never be cooked by boiling if you have the
conveniences for steaming. When done, remove the skins
quickly, and serve in an uncovered dish.
BOILED POTATOES
Pare six good-sized potatoes, and let them lie in cold water
one hour. Then put them in a kettle of boiling water, and
boil slowly until they are soft enough to admit a fork. Then
pour off the water. (If you allow them to remain in the water
one second after they are done, they will become waxy and
watery.) Uncover the kettle, dredge with salt, and
shake them so that all sides may be exposed to the cold air.
Cover the boiler with a napkin, and let stand on one side
of the fire for five minutes, and they are ready to serve.
Old potatoes that have sprouted and are shriveled, are
better covered with cold water instead of boiling water.
POTATOES BOILED IN THEIR SKINS
Select potatoes of uniform size, wash and scrub them well ;
let them stand in cold water for a half-hour, then put them
into a kettle of boiling water, and boil slowly until you
can pierce easily with a fork; then drain very dry,
VEGETABLES 293
dredge with salt, and stand on the back of the fire with
the lid of the kettle off, for five minutes. Peel quickly,
and serve in an uncovered vegetable dish.
MASHED POTATOES
Boil as directed in recipe for Boiled Potatoes. When
done and dry, mash quickly with a wire masher until light
and free from all lumps ; add a piece of butter the size of
a walnut, a quarter-cup of boiling cream, a teaspoonful
of salt, and a dash of pepper. Beat with a fork until
very light. Serve in a heated, uncovered dish. The pota-
toes may also be pressed through a "Henis Vegetable
Press," which removes the smallest lumps and makes them
very light.
STEWED POTATOES
Pare six potatoes, cut them into dice ; throw them into
cold water for fifteen minutes, drain, and cover with boil-
ing water and boil until tender ; then drain off every drop
of water ; dredge them with a tablespoonful of flour, add
apiece of butter the size of a walnut, a half-pint of milk, a
half-teaspoon ful of salt, and a little black pepper; stir
carefully until they boil, and serve in a heated dish.
POTATO PUFF
2 cups of hot or cold mashed 2 eggs
potatoes i tablespoonful of butter
3 tablespoonfuls of cream Salt and pepper to taste
Put the potatoes in a frying-pan, add the yolks of the
eggs, cream, and seasoning, stir over the fire until well
mixed. If the potatoes are cold, stir until they are hot.
Take from the fire, and add carefully the well-beaten whites
of the eggs. Heap on a greased baking-dish or in gem pans.
Bake in a quick oven until a nice brown.
294 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
POTATO CROQUETTES
2 cups of mashed potatoes Yolks of two eggs
2 tablespoonfuls of cream i tablespoonful of chopped
i teaspoonful of onion juice parsley
1 teaspoonful of salt A piece of butter the size
A grating of nutmeg of a walnut
A dash of cayenne
Beat the yolks until light, add them to the potatoes, and
then add all the other ingredients ; mix, and turn into a
small saucepan ; stir over the fire until the mixture leaves
the sides of the pan, take from the fire, and, when cool,
form into cylinders. Roll first in egg and then in bread
crumbs, and fry in boiling fat.
This will make twelve croquettes.
BOULETTES
2 cups of mashed potatoes Yolks of two eggs
i tablespoonful of chopped 2 tablespoonfuls of cream
parsley i teaspoonful of powdered
i teaspoonful of onion juice sweet marjoram
i teaspoonful of salt A piece of butter the size
A dash of cayenne of a walnut
Beat the yolks lightly and add them to the potatoes, then
add all the other ingredients ; mix well, put into a saucepan
and stir over the fire until the mixture leaves the sides of
the pan. Take from the fire ; when cool, form into bullets,
dip first in egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boil-
ing fat.
Serve as a garnish to boiled fish or baked meats.
POTATOES au GRATIN
6 cold boiled potatoes ^ pint of stock
y 2 pint of cream 2 tablespoonfuls of butter
i tablespoonful of flour 4 heaping tablespoonfuls
Yolks of four eggs of grated cheese
Salt and cayenne to taste
Put the butter in a frying-pan to melt ; when melted, add
VEGETABLES 295
the flour, mix until smooth; then add the stock and cream,
and stir continually until it boils. Take from the fire, add
the cheese, the yolks well beaten, salt, and cayenne. Put
a layer of this sauce in the bottom of a baking-dish, then
a layer of the cold potatoes, sliced, and so on, having the
last layer sauce ; sprinkle bread crumbs over the top, and
put it in a quick oven ten minutes, to brown. Serve in
the dish in which it was baked.
POTATOES a la BECHAMEL
Steam the potatoes, and when done, cut them in slices and
place on a heated dish. Have a Bechamel Sauce ready,
pour it over the potatoes, and serve very hot.
SCALLOPED POTATOES
Cut four good-sized boiled or steamed potatoes into dice.
Put two tablespoon fuls of butter in a frying-pan ; and, when
melted, add two tablespoon fuls of flour, mix until smooth ;
then add one pint of milk, and stir continually until it
boils ; add a teaspoonful of salt, and three dashes of black
pepper ; take from the fire. Put a layer of this sauce in
the bottom of a baking-dish, then a layer of potatoes, then
another layer of sauce, and so on until all is used, having
the last layer sauce; sprinkle the top lightly with bread
crumbs, and put in the oven for fifteen minutes, to brown.
Serve in the dish in which it was baked.
HASHED POTATOES BROWNED IN THE OVEN
Pare two good-sized potatoes, and cut into dice. Put a
tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan ; and, when melted,
add one tablespoonful of flour, mix until smooth; then
add a half-pint of milk, stir continually until it boils, add
a half-teaspoonful of salt, and two dashes of black pepper.
Put a layer of this sauce in the bottom of a baking-dish,
296 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
then a layer of the uncooked chopped potatoes, then a
sprinkling of salt, pepper, parsley, and a few drops of
onion juice, then another layer of sauce, and so on until
all is used, having the last layer sauce ; sprinkle the top
over lightly with bread crumbs, and put in a moderate oven
to bake, for a half-hour. Serve in the dish in which it was
baked.
FRIED POTATOES (FRENCH)
Pare the potatoes and throw them into cold water for one
hour. Then cut them, either with a vegetable spoon, or in
slices or blocks. Have ready a pan of very hot lard ; dry the
potatoes on a towel. This must be done quickly, so as not
to allow the potato to discolor. Now drop them quickly
into the hot lard. When done, take them out with a skim-
mer, and put in a colander. Stand the colander on a tin
plate, and then in the oven, with the door open, to keep
warm while you fry the remainder. When all are done,
sprinkle with salt, and serve hot.
When cut with a vegetable spoon, they are used to
garnish boiled or baked fish.
FRIED POTATOES
Cut cold boiled potatoes in slices. Put two tablespoonfuls
of lard or dripping into a frying-pan ; when hot, put in
just enough potatoes to cover the bottom of. the pan.
When brown on one side, turn and brown the other ;
then dish and keep warm while you fry another panful, and
in this way fry the desired quantity, adding more lard or
dripping as you consume it.
LYONNAISE POTATOES
Cut cold boiled or steamed potatoes into dice, and to every
pint of these dice allow one good-sized onion, one table-
spoonful of chopped parsley, a dash of black pepper, a
VEGETABLES 297
sprinkling of salt, and one tablespoonful of butter. Put
the butter into a frying-pan ; when hot, add the onion
cut in thin slices ; fry and stir until half done, then add
the potatoes ; fry and stir gently until the potatoes are all
a nice light brown. It may require a little more butter, as
no vegetable absorbs so much butter as the potato. When
done, turn into a hot dish, sprinkle with the salt, pepper,
and parsley, and serve very hot.
SARATOGA CHIPS
Pare one large potato, and cut in very thin slices, on a vege-
table cutter, over a bowl of cold water, so that each slice
will fall into the water (this makes them light and dry
after being fried) ; soak ten minutes, then take out a few
pieces at a time, and dry them on a soft towel. Have
ready a kettle of boiling lard. Throw in the slices, a few
at a time, stir them with a skimmer ; when a light brown,
take them out, and place on a piece of soft brown paper in
a colander, dredge with salt, and stand in the open oven
to keep warm while you fry the remainder. Turn the first
from the colander into a hot dish, and skim out the second
frying on the paper, and so continue until you have finished.
SWELLED POTATOES
Pare the potatoes, and cut in slices about the sixteenth of
an inch in thickness ; then dry them on a towel. Do not
soak in cold water. Have ready two pans of hot lard, one
a little hotter than the other ; turn the potatoes, a few at a
time, into the coolest lard. When fried, take them out,
drain a half-minute in the colander, then throw them into
the very hot lard, for an instant, to swell or puff. If the
second lard is quite hot, and the potatoes are good, they
will certainly swell. When done, dust them with salt, and
serve very hot.
298 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
BAKED POTATOES WITH MEAT
Wash and pare potatoes of uniform size, and one hour be-
fore the meat is done, put them in the baking-pan around
the meat, and baste with the dripping every time you baste
the meat.
BAKED POTATOES
As potatoes contain potash, an important constituent of
the blood, which is freely soluble in water, they are much
more wholesome baked than boiled.
Wash and scrub the potatoes, place them in a baking-
pan, then in a quick oven, to bake for thirty minutes, or
until you can mash them between the hands. Do not try
them with a fork, as that allows the steam to escape, and
consequently the potato is heavy. Use as soon as done, or
they will become watery.
STUFFED POTATOES
Bake six good-sized potatoes. When done, cut the tops off,
and with a spoon scoop out the potato into a hot bowl.
Mash fine, and add one tablespoonful of butter, a quarter-
cup of hot milk, a teaspoonful of salt, and pepper to taste.
Beat until very light, then add the well-beaten whites of
two eggs ; stir gently. Fill the skins with this mixture,
heaping it on the top ; brush over with the yolk of the
eggs, put in the oven to brown.
They may also be cut into halves and stuffed.
POTATO SOUFFLE
Steam six good-sized potatoes in their jackets. When done,
peel and mash them ; then add one tablespoonful of butter
(one ounce), a half-pint of hot cream, one teaspoonful of
salt, and black pepper to taste. Now beat until smooth and
light. Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth, stir them
VEGETABLES 299
gently into the potatoes, heap on a baking-dish, and put in
a quick oven to brown. Serve in the dish in which they
were baked.
Two heaping tablespoon fuls of grated cheese added
with the cream is an improvement.
PUREE OF POTATOES
4 medium-sized potatoes i pint of milk
i teaspoonful of onion juice i tablespoon ful of butter
i tablespoon ful of flour Salt and pepper to taste
Pare the potatoes, and soak in cold water for a half-hour,
then put them in boiling water and boil slowly until you
can pierce them with a fork. Put the milk on to boil in a
farina boiler. Rub the butter and flour together until
smooth, then stir into the boiling milk ; stir until it thick-
ens, then add the onion juice, salt, and pepper. Drain the
potatoes and mash them through a colander ; add to them the
milk, stir, and press through a sieve. Then return to the
farina boiler ; boil five minutes, and serve.
ROAST SWEET POTATOES
Wash and scrub potatoes of uniform size ; do not cut or
scratch them. Put them in a baking-pan, place in a hot
oven, and bake until, when pressed between the hands, they
seem mellow in the centre. Serve in their jackets immedi-
ately.
BOILED SWEET POTATOES
Wash and scrub potatoes of uniform size ; do not cut or
break the skin. Put them in a kettle of boiling water, and
boil until, when you pierce with a fork, they are just a lit-
tle hard in the centre. Now drain by raising the cover
just enough to admit the draining off the water when you
tilt the kettle. This is much better than draining in a col-
ander. Stand the kettle on the back part of the fire, cover
300 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
with a napkin, and let steam ten minutes. In this way the
potatoes will be mealy and dry.
FRIED SWEET POTATOES
Skin and cut lengthwise boiled sweet potatoes. Put three
tablespoon fuls of dripping in a large frying-pan, dust the
potatoes with salt and pepper, throw them into the hot fat,
brown first on one side, then turn and brown the other.
Serve very hot.
SWEET POTATOES ROASTED UNDER THE MEAT
Wash and pare potatoes of uniform size. One hour before
the meat is done put them in the baking-pan with the meat,
and baste every ten minntes with the dripping.
TO WARM OVER SWEET POTATOES
Cut cold boiled or baked sweet potatoes in thin slices.
To every pint of these slices allow two tablespoon fuls of
butter, a teaspoonful of chopped onion, a half-pint of
stock, salt and pepper to taste. Put the butter in a frying-
pan ; when hot, throw in the potatoes and onion, fry and
stir gently until a nice brown ; then take them out with a
skimmer and keep warm while you make the sauce. Add
the flour to the butter remaining in the pan, mix until
smooth, then add the stock, stir continually until it boils;
add the salt and pepper; take from the fire, and add the
yolk of one egg; pour over the potatoes, and serve.
BAKED PUMPKIN
Cut the pumpkin first in halves, then in quarters; remove the
seeds, but not the rind. Place in a baking-pan with the
rind downwards, and bake in a slow oven until tender
when you pierce with a fork. When done, serve in the
rind ; help it out by spoonfuls as you would mashed pota-
toes.
VEGETABLES . 301
RADISHES (Blot)
Cut off the roots close to the radish. Cut off the tops
about an inch from the radish. Wash clean in cold water.
Take the radish with the left hand, holding it by the top;
cut the skin from the top downwards, in several parts, like
you cut an orange to remove the skin, without detaching it.
Do the same carefully with the body of the radish, and it
will look more like a rose than a radish. After having
prepared two or three it will be comparatively easy. The
centre leaves must be eaten as well as the body of the
radish ; they contain a substance that helps the digestion
of the radish itself.
BOILED SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT
Wash and scrape one dozen roots of salsify. Throw each
one into cold water as soon as you have scraped it, or it will
turn black. Then put them into a kettle of boiling water,
and boil until tender (about one hour) ; drain, cover wi'th
Cream Sauce, and serve.
SALSIFY CAKES OR FRITTERS
These are made precisely the same as Parsnip Fritters.
SPINACH
Wash a half-peck of spinach through several waters to free
it from grit. Pick it over very carefully and cut off the
roots. Wash again, drain, and take up by handfuls, shake
and press out all the remaining water. Put it in a kettle,
and add one cup of water ; cover the kettle, place over a
moderate fire, and allow the spinach to thus steam for
twenty minutes. Then drain in a colander; turn into a
chopping- tray and chop very fine; // cannot be too fine;
put into a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter, salt and
pepper to taste, stir until very hot. Have a heated dish at
hand, and arrange on it small squares of buttered toast.
302 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Mould the spinach by packing it tightly in a cup, and turn
each cupful out on a slice of toast. Place half of a hard-
boiled egg on the top of each mould. Pour Drawn Butter
around the toast, and serve.
Or, when done, drain, chop fine, serve in a heated
vegetable dish. Cut hard-boiled eggs in slices and lay on
top.
A half-peck of spinach will serve five people.
SUMMER SQUASH (BOILED)
Pare and cut in slices three summer squashes, remove the
seeds and cut the slices in squares. Put them into a sauce-
pan, cover with boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt and
boil twenty minutes. When done, drain in a colander and
press gently; then mash fine, turn into a strainer cloth,
and squeeze until the squash is dry. Now put into a small
saucepan a tablespoonful of butter and the squash, add salt
arid pepper to taste, stir until thoroughly heated, and serve.
Or, cut into slices, dust with salt and pepper, dip first
in egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry, and serve the
same as egg plants.
WINTER SQUASH
The small Hubbard squash is best for baking. Saw the
squash in halves; scrape out the soft part and the seeds.
Put the halves in the oven, and bake about three-quarters
of an hour, or until tender. Serve in the shell. Help out
by spoonfuls.
PUREE OF SORREL
YZ peck of sorrel ^ cup of veal stock
i tablespoonful of butter Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the sorrel through several cold waters, cut off the
steins the leaves only are good. Put a cup of cold water
and a teaspoonful of salt in a saucepan, and throw in the
VEGETABLES 303
sorrel at the first boil. Cover the saucepan and boil for
twenty minutes. When done, drain, and chop vety fine,
then press through a colander; return it to the saucepan,
add the butter, stock, salt and pepper, let it boil up once,
and it is ready to serve.
STEWED TOMATOES
Pour boiling water over them, with a sharp knife remove
the skins and the hard stem ends, and cut them in small
pieces. Stew in a porcelain-lined or granite saucepan for
a half-hour, then add to 'every quart of tomatoes a table-
spoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, salt and pepper
to taste. Stew fifteen or twenty minutes longer, or until
they are of the desired thickness.
Some prefer the tomatoes stewed only thirty minutes
and thickened with bread crumbs.
A slice of onion may be added to the tomatoes when
first put on to cook, and to me is a great improvement,
filling the same place that the sprig of mint does in peas or
beans.
BAKED TOMATOES
Choose six large, smooth tomatoes. Cut a slice off the
stem ends, and with your finger carefully scoop out the
seeds. Mix together a half-cup of finely-chopped, cold,
boiled ham, twelve chopped mushrooms, two heaping
tablespoonfuls of stale bread crumbs, a tablespoonful of
chopped parsley, a half-teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cay-
enne, and a tablespoonful of melted butter. Fill the toma-
toes with this mixture, heaping it in the centre ; sprinkle
over the tops with bread crumbs ; place the tomatoes in a
granite baking-pan, baste with melted butter, and bake in
a hot oven thirty minutes. When done, take them up care-
fully with a cake-turner, and serve.
304 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
TOMATO FARCI
Put a layer of tomatoes in the bottom of a baking-dish,
then a layer of bread crumbs, then a sprinkling of salt and
pepper, then another layer of tomatoes, and so con-
tinue until the dish is full, having the last layer crumbs.
Put a few bits of butter over the top and bake in a quick
oven twenty minutes. Serve in the dish in which it was
baked.
STUFFED TOMATOES
Choose large, smooth tomatoes. Cut a slice off the stem
ends, and with your ringer carefully scoop out the seeds.
Put one cup of stale bread crumbs into a bowl, add to
them a teaspoonful of chopped onion, a half-teaspoon ml
of salt, a dash of cayenne, and moisten with a tablespoon-
ful of melted butter. Fill the tomatoes with this stuffing,
heaping it in the centre. Place the tomatoes in a granite
baking-pan, and bake in a quick oven thirty minutes.
When done, take them up carefully with a cake-turner,
place on a heated dish, and serve.
This stuffing will fill six tomatoes.
FRIED TOMATOES No. i
Wash and cut into halves six nice, smooth tomatoes. Place
in a granite baking-pan with the skin side down. Cut a
quarter-pound of butter in small pieces and place over the
tomatoes, dust with salt and pepper, and stand over a mod-
erate fire to fry slowly. When the tomatoes are tender,
take them up carefully with a cake-turner and slide them
on a heated dish. Draw the baking-pan over a quick fire, stir
until the butter is a nice brown ; then add two tablespoon-
fuls of flour; mix until smooth, add a pint of milk or
cream, stir continually until it boils, season with salt and
pepper to taste, pour over the tomatoes, and serve.
VEGETABLES 305
FRIED TOMATOES No. 2
Cut smooth, solid tomatoes into slices about an eighth of an
inch in thickness, dry each slice carefully with a soft towel,
then dust with salt and pepper. Beat an egg in a saucer
until light, add to it a tablespoonful of boiling water. Dip
each slice first in this and then in breajd crumbs. Put two
or three tablespoon fuls of lard or dripping in a frying-pan ;
when very hot, cover the bottom of the pan with the slices
of tomatoes ; fry brown on one side, then turn and brown
the other. Take them up carefully with a cake-turner,
place on a heated dish, and keep warm while you fry the
remainder.
BROILED TOMATOES
Choose large, firm tomatoes, cut them in halves, but do
not peel them. Then place them in a broiler, dust with
salt and pepper, and broil over a clear but moderate fire,
skin side down, until tender (about twenty minutes).
When done, lift them carefully to a heated plate, pour
melted butter over them, and serve.
CURRIED TOMATOES
i quart of stewed tomatoes or one quart can
i cup of rice
i teaspoonful of curry powder
Salt to taste
Wash the rice through several cold waters. Add the curry
powder and salt to the tomatoes; mix well. Put a layer
of the tomatoes in the bottom of a baking-dish, then a
layer of the uncooked rice, then a layer of tomatoes, and
so on until all is used, having the last layer tomatoes ;
sprinkle the top over with bread crumbs, place a few bits
of butter here and there over the crumbs, and bake in a
moderate oven for a half-hour. Serve in the dish in which
it was baked.
306 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
BOILED TURNIPS
Wash and pare the turnips, cut them into slices crosswise ;
put them into a saucepan, cover with boiling water, and
boil until tender (about thirty minutes). When done,
drain in a colander, pressing lightly to squeeze out all the
water ; then mash fine, add butter, salt and pepper to taste,
and serve.
Or, mix with an equal quantity of hot mashed potatoes.
TURNIPS WITH CREAM SAUCE
Pare six small turnips and cut them into dice ; put into a
saucepan, cover with boiling water, and boil for thirty
minutes. When the turnips are nearly done, make a cream
sauce, and stand over the tea kettle to keep warm. Drain
the turnips in a colander, turn them carefully into a vege-
table dish, pour the cream sauce over them, and serve.
BROWNED TURNIPS
Pare the turnips, cut in slices crosswise, and boil as directed
in preceding recipe. Drain' in a colander. Put two table-
spoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan ; when hot, add the
turnips and one tablespoonful of granulated sugar ; stir
and turn carefully until the slices are nicely browned ; dust
with salt and pepper, and serve.
These are a nice accompaniment to roast ducks.
RUTA-BAGA
Ruta-bagas are much more solid than the common white
turnips, and may be cooked and served according to the
recipes given for turnips.
BOILED TURNIP TOPS OR SPROUTS
Wash a quarter-peck of turnip tops in cold water; put
them into a kettle, cover with boiling water, and boil
twenty minutes ; add a tablespoonful of salt when they are
half done. Drain in a colander. Serve in a vegetable
dish, garnished with slices of hard-boiled eggs.
ADDITIONAL RECIPES 307
308 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
ADDITIONAL RECIPES
310 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
BREAD
Bread heads the list of foods for man.
It is said that a slave of an archon at Athens first made
leaven bread by accident. He forgot some of his dough,
and, some days after, came upon it and found it sour. His
first thoughts were to throw it away; but, his master coming
out, he mixed it quickly with some fresh dough he was
working. Of course the bread this produced was delicious:
Bread is mostly made from wheat, as that grain contains
more gluten in the proper proportion to make a light and
spongy bread, which will allow the juices of the stomach
to have access to every part, and digestion in all parts is
commenced immediately.
Please note under the head of cereals the chemical
composition of wheat, and you will see at once that our
fine white bread contains little but starch. We cannot say
that such bread is the "staff of life," but the brown (not
bran), whole wheat bread constitutes, in itself, a complete
life-sustainer ; consequently, bread-making is the most im-
portant of the cookery of grain food.
The grinding is the first process of this cookery, and
is performed in several ways, each one claiming superiority.
One is by grinding the grain between two horizontal stones,
the upper revolving and grinding the grain against the lower
312 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
one, which is stationary. In this way the bran or outer
husk is simply separated from the grain ; the gluten is di-
vided minutely, while the starch or white part of the grain
is finely powdered. It is then sifted through bolting-cloth,
and makes our fine white flour, coarse wheat meal, and bran.
The flour containing little or no bran is most easily digested.
Another method is the Minnesota or "patent process."
In this way the grain is crushed (not ground) by passing
through corrugated rollers, and then sifted through bolting-
cloths. Still another is the new patent or Haxall process.
By this method the flour is granulated, and contains much
more gluten than either of the others ; consequently, one-
eighth less may be used in all recipes for bread, biscuit, or
cakes.
The fancy names given to flour amount to very little,
as the same flour is sold by several dealers under their own
and different brands.
Good flour adheres to the hand, and, when pressed
tightly, remains in shape, and shows the imprint of the
lines of the skin on the hand. It has a yellowish-white
tinge, and, when made into a paste with water, and well
worked, is tough and elastic. Select it carefully, and use
one kind for all purposes cakes, pastry, and bread. It
is a mistaken idea that the flour which makes good bread
will not make good pastry. After selecting the flour, the
next important thing is to have good, strong, sweet yeast.
Potato yeast is the best, as the potato starch is particularly
adapted to the yeast fermentation. The compressed cakes,
however, are very good and convenient, one cake being equal
to one cup of good yeast. Yeast is a plant, and a very deli-
cate one, that does not flourish under extreme heat or cold ;
therefore, you must be very choice in the selection of the
place where the bread shall stand to ferment. If chilled,
it is spoiled ; if scalded, it is killed, and nothing can restore
BREAD 313
it. An even temperature, from 68 to 72, is best. In
warm weather, take the liquid cool ; in winter blood-warm.
As dough contains both sugar and gluten, when moist-
ened and subjected to a temperature of 106 to 108 for
six hours, it is capable of fermentation ; then, by adding
more moisture and flour, and fermenting again, then baking,
you have salt-rising, or milk-emptyings bread, a sweet, fine,
and delicious bread.
There are various ways of making bread with milk,
water, potatoes, etc. ; but the two points, sweetness and
lightness, remain always the chief consideration. If milk
is used, it should be scalded and cooled ; this prevents its
souring. Next comes the mixing or sponging of the bread ;
that is, surrounding each grain of flour with a film of water,
to combine and hydrate the starch, to dissolve the sugar
and albumen, and to moisten the gluten, which causes them
to adhere and form a dough. This is not, then, a mere
mixture, but an actual chemical combination; but, as we can-
not use water enough to alone effect this, it must be supple-
mented by kneading, and here comes our most important
point. So far, this has been best accomplished by the hands ;
all machines made for the purpose, that have come under
my observation, have been failures. As the eye cannot pen-
etrate into the centre of the dough to discover the lumps,
etc., we have no guide except the sense of touch. The ex-
cellency of bread depends much upon the thoroughness of
its kneading. First work the dough in the pan until.it
loses part of its stickiness ; then thickly flour the board,
flour the hands, take out the dough, and knead rapidly and
continuously by drawing the dough farthest from you over
to the centre, and pressing it down with the ball of the
hand. Repeat this several times, then turn the dough
around and knead the other side, and so on, until every
part is thoroughly and evenly kneaded. This will take about
314 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
fifteen or twenty minutes. When you first begin, the dough
will be soft and sticky, but will become less so the longer
you knead, and, when you can knead it on an unfloured,
dry board, the kneading may be discontinued.
Kneading renders the gluten so elastic that the dough
is capable of expanding to twice its bulk without breaking
or cracking. After this, you stand it away to rise. Give it
time to fully expand, but be careful that the dough does
not fall, as it is then sour, and nothing can be added to re-
store the original sweetness. Soda is sometimes used, but
does not accomplish the object. This falling or souring is
caused by the yeast consuming or eating up every atom of
flour. If a handful of flour be added to the dough, and
the dough then pressed down, it might stand, then, perhaps
another hour, or until this flour is consumed, without souring.
Next comes the moulding. After this dough is very
light, divide it carefully into loaves ; knead lightly on the
board until formed ; place each one in its own pan (the
best pans are made from sheet iron, eight inches long, four
wide, and four deep), and stand back in a warm place until
double its bulk.
Now comes the baking, which is equally important.
There are several ways of testing the oven without a ther-
mometer. One is the baker's method ; he throws flour on
the floor of the oven ; if it browns quickly, without taking
fire, the heat is sufficient, or if you can hold your hand in
the oven while you count twenty slowly, it is right ; or, if
you use a thermometer, 360. The bread should be in the
oven ten minutes before it begins to brown.
If the oven be too hot, a thick crust is produced,
forming a non-conducting covering to the loaf, which pre-
vents the heat from penetrating to the interior ; hence, the
burnt loaf is always unbaked in the centre, and the dex-
trine is changed into caramel, thus making the crust bitter
BREAD 315
instead of sweet. Bake in single pans, three-quarters of an
hour. When done, remove it immediately from the pan,
and tip against a plate or bread board, so that the air will
circulate freely around it. Do not cover, if you like a
crisp, sweet crust. When perfectly cold, put it into a
sweet, clean, tin bread box, without any wrapping, as the
cloth absorbs the moisture, and very soon sours and moulds,
destroying the flavor of the bread.
YEAST No. i
Pare four good-sized potatoes, and let them lie in cold
water for a half-hour. Put one quart of boiling water in a
saucepan. Now grate the potatoes quickly and stir them
into the boiling water ; stir over the fire for five minutes,
then take from the fire, add a half-cupful of sugar, and
two tablespoon fuls of salt, turn into a stone jar or bowl,
and let stand until lukewarm; then add one cupful of good
yeast, cover and ferment three or four hours ; stir it down
every time it comes to the top of the vessel ; then put it
into a jar or large bottle, or something you can cover tightly,
and stand it in a place where it will keep very cold, but not
freeze. It will keep two weeks. Save one cupful of this
yeast to start with next time.
This is the simplest and best yeast that can be made.
YEAST No. 2
Pare and boil four good-sized potatoes ; when done, mash
them fine. Put a half-cupful of dried hops into one quart
of water, and boil fifteen minutes. Put one pint of flour
into a bowl, strain over it the boiling hop water, add the
mashed potatoes, and beat until smooth ; then add a half-
cup of sugar, and two heaping tablespoonfuls of salt, and
finish the same as Yeast No. i.
316 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
FRENCH BREAD
i quart of water 6 hop flowers
i pound of potatoes i tablespoonful of salt
i cup of good yeast or half a compressed cake
About four quarts of flour
Put the hops in the water, and boil five minutes. Boil the
potatoes in their skins ; when done, peel and mash them
fine. Put three cups of flour into the bread pan, pour one
pint of boiling water over it, and beat quickly until smooth;
add the mashed potatoes, and then strain into this the hop-
water ; add the salt and a teaspoonful of sugar ; beat
thoroughly; and, when lukewarm, add the yeast ; stand in a-
warm place for nine hours, or over night. In the morning
add sufficient flour (about three and a half quarts) to make
a dough; knead thoroughly and continuously for ten
minutes, using as little flour as possible ; then wet the
hands in lukewarm water, raise the dough about three feet
from the board, and throw it back with force, and continue
this process for fifteen minutes, or until large air bubbles
are formed in the dough. If properly worked the dough
will be very elastic and soft, but will not stick to the hands.
Now put it back in the bread pan, cover, and stand in a
warm place to rise, about two hours. When light, take
out gently, enough of this dough to make one loaf (about
a pound) ; sprinkle the board lightly with flour, knead so
as to make a kind of ball ; then roll it gently with palms
of the hands, giving it an elongated shape ; now flour a
rolling-pin lightly, place it on top of the loaf, right in the
centre, and press and roll a little to make a furrow in the
middle of the loaf. Now dust a towel or bread cloth well
with flour, place the loaf just made upside down on the
towel, pulling out the ends a little to give the loaf a long
form, and so continue until all the loaves arc made ; then
cover with a towel, let rise as ordinary bread ; then turn
BREAD 317
into floured bread pans, the furrowed side up, /. e. t the side
that was down in the floured towel must be up in the bak-
ing-pan. The loaves must be a little distance apart, if you
place two in one pan. Sprinkle plenty of flour on the top
of each loaf, and bake in a moderately quick oven, forty
minutes.
MILK BREAD
1 pint of milk About two quarts of flour
YZ cup of yeast or half a i teaspoonful of salt
compressed cake i teaspoonful of butter
Scald the milk and turn it into the bread pan, add the
butter and salt. When cool, add the yeast, and sufficient
flour to make a thick batter. Beat thoroughly until
the batter is full of air-bubbles. Cover, and let stand in a
warm place (72 Fahr.) until morning. Early in the
morning add enough flour to make a dough. Take it out
on a baking-board as soon as it is stiff enough to do so,
and knead quickly and gently until the dough is perfectly
smooth and elastic, and will not stick to the board or hands.
Now put it back in the bread pan, cover, and stand in the
same warm place, and let it rise until it doubles its bulk.
When light, turn out on the board, divide it into halves,
mould lightly into loaves, put them into greased pans, and
stand away again until light. Bake in a moderately quick
oven (390 Fahr.) for three-quarters of an hour.
WATER BREAD
Water bread is made precisely the same as Milk Bread,
using tepid water instead of milk.
MILK BREAD WITH POTATO SPONGE
2 potatoes i quart of milk
i tablespoonful of salt i cup of yeast or half a
About four quarts of flour compressed cake
Pare the potatoes, put them in a saucepan with a quart of
318 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
boiling water, and boil until very tender. Put one cup of
flour in the bread pan, pour over it one cup of the boiling
potato water, beat quickly ; mash the potatoes through a
colander into this batter, and beat again until smooth.
When lukewarm, add the yeast and salt ; mix, cover, and
stand in a warm place (72 Fahr.) over night. In the
morning scald the milk; and, when lukewarm, add to it
sufficient flour to make a batter; then add the potato sponge,
mix well, cover, and stand away in a warm place until very
light. Then add sufficient flour to make a dough. Take
it out on a baking-board as soon as it is stiff enough to do
so, and knead quickly and gently until the dough is per-
fectly smooth and elastic, and will not stick to the board
or hands; then cut it into quarters, mould into loaves,
place each loaf in a greased bread pan, cover with a towel,
and stand in a warm place to rise, until it doubles its bulk.
Then bake in a moderately quick oven (390 Fahr.) for
three-quarters of an hour.
STIRRED BREAD
Make a sponge the same as for Milk Bread, and let it stand
over night. In the morning, beat it well, add one cup of
flour, and pour it into greased, deep bread pans. Let it
stand until light (about two hours). Bake in a moderately
quick oven for three-quarters of an hour.
This makes a very sweet bread, but is not so delicate
as when kneaded.
SALT-RISING BREAD
Add to one pint of scalding water sufficient flour to make a
thick batter, add a half-teaspoonful of salt, and beat until
smooth and full of air-bubbles. Cover closely, stand in a
pan of warm water and keep in a warm place over night.
In the morning, scald one pint of milk, stand aside until
BREAD 319
lukewarm ; add a teaspoon ful of salt and enough flour to
make a batter that will drop, not pour, from a spoon.
Now turn into this the salt rising, which should be very
light, and emit a very unpleasant odor; beat thoroughly
and continuously for three minutes, then cover with a towel,
stand in a pan of warm water, and put where it will keep
warm until very light (about two hours) ; then add sufficient
flour to make a dough ; knead thoroughly and continuously
until smooth and elastic, divide into loaves, mould, place
in greased pans, cover with a towel, and, when very light,
bake in a moderate oven (300 Fahr.) one hour.
This must be kept very much warmer than a yeast
bread, or it will not rise. It is thought by some more
digestible than any other kind of bread.
SWEET POTATO BREAD
i quart of flour i pint of warm water
4 roasted sweet potatoes i cup of yeast or half a
i tablespoonful of salt compressed cake
i tablespoonful of butter
Put the water into a bread pan or large bowl, add the but-
ter, salt, yeast and flour ; beat well, and stand in a warm
place over night. In the morning, bake the potatoes and
press them through a sieve into the light sponge, add flour,
and finish same as Milk Bread.
RYE BREAD
Make a sponge from wheat flour as directed in recipe for
Milk Bread. In the morning add sufficient rye flour to
make a soft dough. Knead lightly; then cut the dough in
two loaves, mould, place in greased bread pans, cover and
stand in a warm place to rise again. When light, bake in
a moderate oven (300 Fahr.) for one hour.
Rye bread must not be as stiff as white bread,, and does
not require so much kneading.
320 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
CORN BREAD
2 potatoes i quart of milk
i tablespoon ful of salt i cup of yeast or half a
i pint of yellow corn meal compressed cake
Sufficient flour to make a dough
Pare the potatoes, put them in a saucepan with a quart of
boiling water, and boil until very tender. Put one cup of
flour in the bread pan, pour over it one cup of the boiling
potato water, beat quickly. Mash the potatoes through a
colander into this batter, beat again until smooth, and let
stand until lukewarm ; then add the yeast and the salt, mix
well; cover and stand in a warm place (72 Fahr.) over
night. Now put the corn meal in a bowl and pour over it
just sufficient boiling water to moisten it ; let it stand also
over night. In the morning, scald the milk and stand
aside until lukewarm; then add sufficient flour to make a
batter that will drop, not pour, from a spoon ; now add .to
this the scalded corn meal, then the potato mixture;
beat all well together, then add sufficient flour to make a
soft dough; knead lightly, using just enough flour to pre-
vent sticking; then divide in fourths. Mould each fourth
into a loaf, place each loaf in a greased bread pan, cover
and stand in a warm place until light, then bake in a
moderate oven (300 Fahr.) for one and a quarter hours.
NORWEGIAN BREAD
i pint of barley meal y 2 pint of wheat flour
y 2 pint of Graham flour i teaspoonful of salt
i cup of yeast or half a compressed cake
Scald the milk and let stand until lukewarm, then add the
salt and yeast, mix, and add all the other ingredients.
Beat thoroughly and continuously for ten minutes, then
turn in*;; a greased bread pan ; cover with paper and stand
in a \, ,p.a place until very light and full of air bubbles,
BREAD 321
then bake in a moderately quick oven (390 Fahr.) for
forty minutes.
GRAHAM BREAD
Make a sponge at night as directed in recipe for Milk or
Water Bread. In the morning add two large tablespoon-
fuls of molasses and sufficient Graham flour to make a soft
dough. Work well with the hand, mould into loaves, put
into well-greased pans, let it rise again, and bake in a
moderate oven (300 Fahr.) for one hour.
Graham bread must be watched more carefully than
white bread, as it sours quickly.
BOSTON BROWN BREAD
2 cups of Yankee rye meal 2 cups of Indian meal
i cup of molasses i teaspoonful of soda or
i teaspoonful of salt saleratus
\y 2 pints of sour milk
Mix the rye and the Indian meal well together. Dissolve
the soda or. saleratus in two tablespoonfuls of boiling water,
then add it to the sour milk ; add the molasses, mix, and
pour it on the meal, add the salt and mix thoroughly.
Pour into a well-greased two-quart brown bread mould, put
the lid on, and steam five hours; then remove the lid, put
in the oven, and bake thirty minutes.
ADIRONDACK CORN BREAD
1 cup of Indian meal i cup of flour
5 eggs i tablespoonful of sugar
2 ounces of butter 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of
i pint of milk baking-powder
Soften the butter without melting. Beat the eggs sepa-
rately until light, then add the yolks to the rmlk,'.'"d the
meal and flour, beat until smooth ; add the butte\ 7 mix ;
322 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
then add the sugar, whites of eggs and the baking-powder ;
stir lightly and swiftly. Grease a broad, shallow pan, turn
in the mixture, bake in a moderately quick oven (390
Fahr.) for forty minutes. Serve hot.
HOT CORN BREAD
i quart of corn meal i ounce of butter
1 teaspoonful of salt 2 eggs
i pint of sour cream or buttermilk
i teaspoonful of saleratus or soda
Put the corn meal in a large bowl, and pour over it just
enough boiling water to scald it through, stir thoroughly
and let stand until cold, then add the eggs well beaten, the
cream or buttermilk, salt, and butter; beat thoroughly
from the bottom of the bowl. Dissolve the saleratus or
soda in two tablespoon fuls of boiling water, stir it into the
mixture, turn quickly into a greased, square, shallow pan,
put into a hot oven, and bake forty minutes.
SOUTHERN RICE BREAD
2 cups of white Indian meal i cup of cold boiled rice
3 eggs i ounce of butter, melted
i^ pints of milk i teaspoonful of salt
2 heaping teaspoon fuls of baking-powder
Beat the eggs without separating until very light, then add
them to the milk; then add the meal, salt, butter and rice;
beat thoroughly, add the baking-powder, mix. Grease
three round, shallow pans, turn in the mixture, put quickly
in a hot oven, and bake thirty minutes. Serve hot.
PARKER HOUSE ROLLS
i pint of cold boiled milk y% cup of yeast or half a
1 teaspoonful of salt compressed cake dis-
2 quarts of sifted flour solved in a half-cup of
i large spoonful of lard lukewarm water
i teaspoonful of sugar
Put the flour into a deep bowl, add salt and sugar. Mix
BREAD 323
and then rub in the lard. Make a well in the centre. Mix
the yeast and milk well together, pour it into the well, and
let it stand until morning. Then stir, and knead thor-
oughly, first in the bowl, and, as soon as stiff enough, on
the board. Now pound it for fifteen minutes with a potato
masher; as soon as it becomes velvety, put it back in the
bowl, cover it, and set away in a warm place (72 Fahr.)
until very light. When light, roll out on the board a quar-
ter-inch thick, cut with a round cutter, fold one-third over
two-thirds, put on a greased baking-sheet; let stand again
one hour, bake in a quick oven (400 Fahr.) for fifteen
minutes.
Remember that different kinds of flour require more
or less moisture. Do not add the whole two quarts, if less
will answer.
FRENCH ROLLS
French rolls are made in precisely the same manner as
French Bread. When light the second time, form into
small rolls instead of loaves; finish the same as the bread.
TEA BISCUIT No. i
1 pint of milk
2 ounces of butter or lard
^ cup of yeast or half a compressed cake
i teaspoon ful of salt
i teaspoon ful of sugar
About two quarts of good flour
Scald the milk, and stand away until lukewarm ; then add
the salt, sugar, and butter or lard, stir until the butter is
dissolved, then add the flour, and beat vigorously for five
minutes; add the yeast; mix well, cover with a towel, and
stand in a warm place for four hours, or until very light;
then knead, adding sufficient flour to prevent sticking. It
must not be as stiff as bread. Knead continuously for ten
minutes, put back in the pan, cover again and stand in a
324 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
warm place for two hours, or until double its bulk. Now
turn it out on the bread board, pinch off a small piece,
of the dough, about the size of a walnut, knead it lightly
with the fingers into a little ball, place in a greased pan,
and so continue until you have them all made. Place them
far enough apart (two inches) to have a brown crust all
around. When you have them all moulded, cover again,
and let stand a half-hour, then bake in a quick oven for fif-
teen minutes.
TEA BISCUIT No. 2
i pint of milk 2 eggs
1 teaspoonful of salt i teaspoonful of sugar
2 ounces of butter or lard 3 or more pints of flour
YZ cup of yeast or quarter of a compressed cake
Scald the milk, add to it the butter or lard, and stand one
side to cool. When cool, add the salt, sugar and yeast;
mix, and add one-half the flour; beat continuously for five
minutes, cover and stand in a warm place (72 Fahr.) for
four hours. When light, add the eggs well beaten, and
sufficient flour to make a soft dough. Knead lightly and
continuously for fifteen minutes or until elastic ; cover
again and stand in a warm place until double its bulk, or
very light, then roll out in a sheet about a half-inch thick,
cut into biscuits with a cutter, place in greased baking-pans,
cover, let stand a half-hour and bake in a quick oven (400
Fahr.) for fifteen minutes.
POTATO BISCUIT No. i
i pint of milk % pound of butter or lard
6 medium-sized potatoes i cup of yeast or half a
i teaspoonful of salt compressed cake
i teaspoonful of sugar Sufficient flour
Scald the milk. Pare and boil the potatoes, then mash
fine; add to them the hot milk, butter or lard, salt and
sugar ; beat until smooth ; add a half-cup of flour, stir and
BREAD 325
let stand until lukewarm ; then add the yeast and sufficient
flour to make a thick batter, beat continuously for five
minutes; cover and stand in a warm place (72 Fahr.) for
three hours, or until very light. Then add flour to make a
soft dough, knead quickly and lightly for fifteen minutes,
then roll out in a sheet a half-inch thick, cut into biscuits,
place in greased baking pans and cover, stand in a warm
place until very light, then bake in a quick oven for twenty
minutes. These, if carefully made, are delicious.
POTATO BISCUIT No. 2
i large potato i tablespoonful of salt
% yeast cake or a half-cup i pint of milk
of yeast 2 ounces of butter
Flour enough to make a dough
Pare the potato, and put it on to boil in boiling water.
Put a half-cup of flour into a bowl, and scald it with a half-
pint of the water in which the potato was boiled ; stir and beat
rapidly; now add the potato, mashed, and the salt; beat
all thoroughly and let stand until lukewarm, then add the
yeast, or yeast cake dissolved in a half-cup of lukewarm
water, beat well, cover and stand in a warm place about
(72 Fahr.) until light. This will take about four hours.
When this is light, scald the milk, add to it the butter; and.
when lukewarm, sufficient flour to make a batter which
will drop from the spoon. Now add the light mixture
to this, mix well, cover and put back in the warm place
to rise (about two hours). When light, add sufficient
flour to make a dough, and knead as you would bread for
about fifteen minutes. Make into little biscuits, place
them in a greased pan so that they will not touch each
other, cover and stand in a warm place for one hour. Bake
in a quick oven twenty minutes. If you want these for
tea, begin them about ten o'clock in the morning.
326 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
BREAD BISCUITS
Take one pound of bread dough when it is being moulded
for the pans ; add to it two ounces of butter, chop with a knife
until the butter is thoroughly mixed with the dough. Sprin-
kle some flour on the baking-board and knead the dough
for five minutes; then form into small biscuits, place in a
greased pan, cover and stand in a warm place for two hours,
and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes.
RAISED MUFFINS, GEMS, ETC.
PLAIN MUFFINS
i pint of milk 3 cups of flour
1 tablespoonful of butter y 2 cup of yeast or half a
2 eggs compressed cake
i teaspoonful of salt
Scald the milk, add to it the butter and let stand until
lukewarm ; then add the yeast, or the cake dissolved in a
quarter-cup of warm water, and salt, and beat well. Cover
and stand in a warm place (65 Fahr.) until morning. In
the morning, beat the eggs separately ; add first the yolks
and then the whites ; beat well, let stand fifteen minutes,
and bake in greased muffin rings on the griddle on top of
the stove, or in the oven. This mixture may also be baked
in gem pans, and is then Wheat Gems.
RICE MUFFINS
Make a batter the same as for Plain Muffins; after adding
the flour, beat in one cupful of boiled rice ; let stand over
night, and bake as Plain Muffins.
HOMINY OR GRITS MUFFINS
Make and bake the same as Plain Muffins ; add one cup of
cold boiled grits to the batter.
BREAD 327
ENGLISH MUFFINS
i pint of milk ^ cup of yeast or quarter of
i ounce of butter a compressed cake
3 cups of flour
Scald the milk, add the butter, and stand it to one side
until lukewarm ; then add the yeast, a teaspoonful of salt,
.and the flour, and beat continuously for five minutes;
cover with a towel and stand in a warm place to rise about
tAvo hours. When light, add sufficient flour to make a soft
dough ; work lightly with the hand, divide into small balls,
place each ball in a greased muffin ring, or deep gem pan,
cover and let rise again. Then bake on a hot griddle, if
in muffin rings, ^or in a hot oven if in gem pans, until a
nice brown. When done, break or pull them open ; do
not cut them, as a cold knife makes them heavy.
CRUMPETS
i pint of milk 4 ounces of butter
i teaspoonful of salt i cup of yeast or half a
About three cups of flour compressed cake
Scald the milk, let it stand until lukewarm ; then add the
salt and flour; beat vigorously; then add the butter, melted,
and the yeast ; beat again ; cover and stand in a warm
place until very light* Grease the muffin rings and place
them on a hot griddle. Fill each ring half full of the
batter ; bake until brown on one side, then turn and brown
on the other. Take from the fire and stand one side until
wanted. When ready to use, toast them on both sides,
being careful not to burn. Butter them nicely, and serve
quickly on a hot plate.
SALLY LUNN
i pint of milk i^ pints of sifted flour
3 eggs i teaspoonful of salt
i teaspoonful of sugar i ounce of butter
i gill of good yeast or quarter of a compressed cake
328 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Scald the milk, add to it the butter, and stand on one side
until lukewarm ; then add the yeast, salt, sugar and flour ;
beat continuously for five minutes, cover and stand in a
warm place for two hours, or until very light. Then beat
the eggs separately until very light ; add first the yolks
and then the whites ; stir them in carefully ; stand again
in a warm place for fifteen minutes ; then turn into a
greased Turk's head, and bake in a moderately quick oven
for forty minutes.
RAISED WAFFLES AND GRIDDLE CAKES
PLAIN WAFFLES
i quart of sifted flour 2 ounces of butter
i teaspoonful of salt y% cup of yeast or half a
3 eggs compressed cake
\Y^ pints of milk
Rub the butter into the flour, add the salt, then the milk
which should be scalded and cooled, and the yeast ; beat
thoroughly and continuously for three minutes ; cover and
stand in a warm place for two hours, or until very light.
Then beat the eggs separately, add to the batter first the
yolks and then the whites; let stand fifteen minutes. Have
the wafHe-iron gradually and thoroughly heated. Dip a small
paint brush in melted suet and brush the iron until every
part is well greased. Pour the batter into a pitcher, so that
you may fill the iron quickly. Open the iron, pour the batter
from the pitcher into the iron until you have covered the
elevations, close the iron quickly and turn it over. Bake
about two minutes, or until a nice brown ; then remove
them carefully, place on a hot dish, and serve quickly.
RICE WAFFLES
Make the same as Plain Waffles, adding one cup of boiled
rice with the flour.
BREAD 329
GRITS WAFFLES
Make the same as Plain Waffles, adding one cup of boiled
grits with the flour.
FLANNEL CAKES
Make a batter the same as for Plain Muffins, using a gill
more of milk. Bake on a hot griddle.
RICE GRIDDLE CAKES
1 cup of boiled rice i pint of milk
2 eggs ^ cup of yeast or half a
About 2^ cups of flour compressed cake
i large teaspoonful of salt
Scald the milk, stand to one side until cold ; then add the
yeast, salt, flour and rice ; beat continuously for three min-
utes, cover, and stand in a warm place until morning. In
the morning, beat the eggs separately until light ; add first
the yolks, then the whites ; mix thoroughly ; let stand
fifteen minutes, and bake on a hot griddle. The griddle
should always be placed on the back part of the range over
night, to heat gradually.
BUCKWHEAT CAKES
First, be sure that you get perfectly pure buckwheat, free
from grit. The adulterations with rye injure the quality.
Put one quart of cold water into a stone jar with a
small neck, add to it one teaspoonful of salt and three and
three-quarter cups of buckwheat flour ; beat well until per-
fectly smooth ; then add a half-cup of yeast or half a com-
pressed cake, and mix well ; cover the top of the jar with
a saucer or plate ; let stand in a moderately warm place
(65 Fahr.) until morning. In the morning, dissolve a half-
teaspoon ful of saleratus or soda in two tablespoon fuls pf
boiling water, add this to the batter, beat thoroughly and
bake on a hot griddle.
330 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
The saleratus is simply to improve the flavor.
A cupful of this batter may be saved, and added to
the cakes of to-morrow instead of fresh yeast, and may be
so continued all winter.
GRANULATED WHEAT GRIDDLE CAKES
1 pint of milk
2 eggs
i/ cup of yeast or half a compressed cake
3 cups of granulated wheat (Health Food)
i tablespoon ful of melted butter
i teaspoon ful of salt
Scald the milk, and then stand it one side to cool ; then
add the yeast, salt, granulated wheat, and melted butter;
beat until smooth, cover, and stand in a warm place over
night, or until very light. Then beat the eggs until light,
stir them into the batter, let stand fifteen minutes, and
bake on a hot griddle.
GRAHAM GRIDDLE CAKES
^ quart of Graham flour
2 ounces of butter
i^ pints of milk
3 eggs
YZ quart of wheat flour
i teaspoon ful of salt
y?, cup of yeast or half a compressed cake
Scald the milk, and stand it one side to cool; then add
the Graham flour, and beat until smooth ; add the butter
(melted), salt, and yeast; beat again, and stand in a warm
place over night, or until very light. Beat the eggs sepa-
rately, add first the yolks, then the whites, to the batter ;
let stand fifteen minutes, and bake on a hot griddle. Very
good.
BREAD 331
QUICK MUFFINS, WAFFLES, GRIDDLE
CAKES, ETC.
QUICK MUFFINS
i pint of milk 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of
i ounce of butter baking-powder or a half-
i teaspoonful of salt teaspoonful of soda and
3 cups of flour one of cream of tartar
3 e gg s
Beat the eggs separately until light ; add the yolks to the
milk, then the flour, which must be more or less, according
to the quality. The batter must be thin and pour from
the spoon. Now add the melted butter, and salt ; give the
whole a vigorous beating. Now add the baking-powder,
and the well-beaten whites; stir until thoroughly mixed.
Bake in muffin rings in a quick oven, or on the griddle.
GEMS
Make precisely the same as Quick Muffins, pour into
greased gem pans, and bake in a quick oven for about
twenty-five minutes.
CORN GEMS
2 cups of yellow corn meal 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-
1 cup of flour powder or a half-tea-
2 ounces of butter spoonful of soda and a
3 eggs teaspoonful of cream of
i cup of cold milk tartar
i cup of boiling milk
Put the meal into a bowl, put the butter in the centre and
pour over it the boiling milk, stir; then add the cold milk,
the eggs well beaten, salt, and flour. Beat well, add the
baking-powder and mix thoroughly. Pour into greased
gem pans, and bake in a hot oven thirty minutes.
332 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
GRAHAM GEMS WITH DATES
i pint of milk 3 cups of Graham meal
i teaspoonful of salt i cup of boiled rice
^ cup of chopped dates 3 eggs
i tablespoon ful of 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-
melted butter powder
Beat the yolks of the eggs, and add them to the milk, then
the rice, salt, meal, and butter; give the whole a vigorous
beating. Now add the dates, the baking-powder, and the
whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth ; mix carefully.
Bake in gem pans, in a quick oven, thirty minutes.
GRAHAM GEMS
Graham gems are made precisely the same as the preceding
recipe, omitting the rice and dates.
HYGIENIC GRAHAM GEMS
2 cups of ice-wafer i teaspoonful of salt
3^ cups of Graham meal.
Grease the gem pans and put them in the oven to get very
hot. Put the ice-water and salt into a large bowl ; take the
Graham up by handfuls, holding it high over the basin,
which should stand in a current of air, and sprinkle slowly
into the ice-water, beating all the while ; then pour the
batter quickly into the very hot pans, and put immediately
into a very hot oven, and bake about thirty minutes.
CREAM MUFFINS
1 pint of cream i tablespoon ful of melted
2 eggs butter
3 cups of sifted flour 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-
i teaspoonful of salt powder
Beat the yolks of the eggs, and add them to the cream ; add
this gradually to the flour, beat well, and let stand fifteen
minutes; then add the salt, melted butter, the whites of
BREAD 333
the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and the baking-powder;
mix well, and bake in gem pans or muffin rings, in a quick
oven, twenty-five minutes.
BREAD MUFFINS
i pint of stale bread crumbs i pint of milk
i l /i cups of sifted flour 2 eggs
i tablespoonful of melted 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-
butter powder
Cover the bread crumbs with the milk, and soak for a half-
hour. Beat the eggs separately. Add the yolks to the
bread and milk, then the melted butter, and a teaspoonful
of salt, mix all well together ; add the flour, beat until
smooth, and stir in carefully the whites of the eggs and
baking-powder. Bake in greased gem pans, in a quick
oven, thirty minutes.
POP OVERS
2 cups of flour 2 cups of milk
3 eggs y 2 teaspoonful of salt
Grease gem pans or small earthen cups, and put them in
the oven to get very hot. Beat the eggs (without separat-
ing) until very light, add to them the milk and salt; then
pour this gradually on the flour, stirring all the while. Do
not add too rapidly, or the batter will be so liquid that it
cannot be beaten smooth. Strain through a sieve to
remove any little lumps that may remain. Take the gem
pans or cups from the oven, quickly fill them half full with
this mixture, put them in a quick oven, and bake about
twenty-five minutes.
If properly made and properly baked, they will swell
four times their bulk, and make a most delicious breakfast
cake.
334 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
QUICK WAFFLES
i pint of milk 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of
3 cups of flour baking-powder
i teaspoonful of salt 3 eggs
i tablespoonful of butter
Beat the yolks of the eggs until light, then add the milk,
then the flour and salt ; give the whole a good beating
beat until smooth ; add the butter, melted, and, last, the
whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and the baking-
powder ; mix thoroughly, and bake the same as Plain
Waffles.
RICE WAFFLES
Rice waffles can be made by either of the above recipes.
Use one cup of boiled rice and a half-cup less of flour,
adding the rice before the eggs.
OATMEAL GRIDDLE CAKES
i pint of cold boiled oat- 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-
meal powder
i cup of milk 2 cups of flour
YZ teaspoonful of salt 2 eggs
Beat the milk into the oatmeal, then add the salt, the yolks
of the eggs, and a cup of boiling water, and mix all well
together ; add the flour, beat again ; then add the baking-
powder and the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth ;
mix well, and bake on a griddle.
RICE GRIDDLE CAKES
1 pint of milk 2 cups of cold boiled rice
2 cups of flour 3 eggs
2 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder
Press the rice through a sieve, add to it the eggs well
beaten, then a tablespoonful of melted butter, then the
flour and milk ; beat until smooth, add the baking-powder,
mix thoroughly, and bake at once on a hot griddle. These
BREAD 335
may be made with yeast, instead of baking-powder, by
adding a half-cup of yeast, or half of a compressed cake
dissolved in a half-cup of lukewarm water, to the batter, and
standing in a warm place two hours before baking-time.
INDIAN GRIDDLE CAKES
i pint of Indian meal 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of
3 eggs baking-powder
i cup of flour i teaspoonful of salt
i pint of milk
Put the Indian meal into a bowl, and pour over it just
enough boiling water to scald it ; do not make it soft ; let
stand until cool. Now add the milk ; beat the eggs until
very light (do not separate them), add them to the batter \
then add the flour and salt; beat vigorously for three min-
utes, then add the baking-powder, mix well, and bake
quickly on a hot griddle.
QUICK FLANNEL CAKES
1 quart of flour 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-
2 ounces of butter powder
i teaspoonful of salt 3 eggs
1^2 pints of milk
Rub the butter into the flour with the hands until smooth,
then add the salt. Beat the yolks of the eggs, add them to
the milk ; add this to the flour, and beat vigorously until
smooth ; add the whites of the eggs and the baking-powder,
and bake quickly on a hot griddle. Very nice.
STALE BREAD GRIDDLE CAKES
i quart of milk 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder
i pint of stale bread or one teaspoonful of cream
crumbs of tartar and a half-tea-
1 teaspoonful of salt spoonful of soda
2 eggs Flour to make a thin batter
Soak the bread in the milk for one hour, then beat it
336 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
smooth. Beat the eggs separately until very light, add first
the yolks, then the flour and salt ; beat again, add the
whites and baking-powder ; mix, and bake quickly on a
hot griddle.
BUTTERMILK CAKES
i quart of buttermilk Flour to make a thin batter
i teaspoon ful of salt i egg
i teaspoonful of soda or saleratus
Beat the egg, add to it the buttermilk ; add the salt, and
mix well. Dissolve the soda or saleratus in two table-
spoonfuls of boiling water, then stir it into the buttermilk.
Now add gradually the flour, stirring all the while, until
you have a batter that will pour smoothly from a spoon.
Give a good beating, and bake quickly on a hot griddle.
PANCAKES
1 quart of flour Sufficient quantity of lukewarm
4 eggs water and milk (about half
2 tablespoonfuls of sweet of each) to make a thin
oil or melted butter batter (about one and a
i tablespoonful of brandy half pints)
Beat the eggs until light, add to them half the milk and
water, and add this gradually to the flour, stirring all the
while ; then add the oil, brandy, and a half- teaspoon ful of
salt ; mix well, and add the remainder of the milk and
water ; give a good beating, and stand away in a cold place
for three hours. Then put one tablespoonful of butter in a
frying-pan, and stand it over a good fire ; when hot, put a
ladle of the batter into it, spread so as to cover the entire
bottom of the pan. Fry brown on one side, then turn and
brown the other. Spread with a thin layer of preserves
or jam, roll, dust with powdered sugar, and serve warm.
BREAD 337
CORN GRIDDLE CAKES
i quart of grated corn i tablespoon ful of melted butter
i cup of flour 4 eggs
i cup of milk y? teaspoonful of salt
Beat the eggs separately, add the yolks to the corn, then
the milk, then the flour and salt ; beat well ; then stir in
carefully the well-beaten whites, and bake on a hot griddle.
SODA AND QUICK BISCUIT, ETC.
SODA BISCUIT
i quart of sifted flour 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-
i teaspoonful of salt powder or a hal f- teaspoon -
y? pint of milk ful of soda and one tea-
i large spoonful of lard spoonful of cream of tartar
Put the baking-powder, or cream of tartar and socb, and
salt, into the flour, and sift it again. Then rub into this
the lard. Now see that the oven is very hot (400 Fahr.).
Grease the pans, and get the cutter and rolling-pin. Have
everything ready before you put in the milk, then add the
milk and knead up quickly, Roll out on the board one
inch thick ; cut with a small round cuttt r, put quickly into
the pans and then into the oven. Bake twenty minutes.
Remember, to have them a success, handle as little, and
make as rapidly, as possible.
RYE BISCUIT
Make same as Soda Biscuit, using one pint of rye flcur and
one pint of wheat flour, instead of one quart of flour.
SHORTCAKES
3 cups of sifted flour i even teaspoonful of bak-
i teaspoonful of salt ing-powder
i^ cup of butter A scant cup of ice-water
Rub the butter into the flour as quickly and lightly as possi-
338 PHILADELPHIA COCK BOOK
ble, add the salt and baking-powder, mix well ; moisten
with the ice-water. Roll out on a board about a half-inch
thick, cut with a round cake cutter, put in greased baking-
pans, and bake in a quick oven a half-hour.
CREAM SHORTCAKES
I quart of flour i teaspoon ful of salt
i scant teaspoonful of soda j pint of thick sour cream
Add the salt to the flour. Dissolve the soda in two table-
spoonfuls of boiling water, add it to the sour cream ; then
add the cream to the flour, mix quickly, and form into
cakes the size of a breakfast plate, and a half-inch thick.
Place on a hot griddle. Brown on one side, then turn and
brown the other.
If the flour is very heavy, it may require a little more
cream to make a soft dough.
HOE CAKE
1 pint of corn meal y 2 teaspoonful of salt
Sufficient water to make a batter
Put the corn meal into a bowl, and add the salt ; pour over
it sufficient boiling water to just moisten the meal, and let
stand ten minutes ; then add the water until the batter will
drop nicely from a spoon. Bake the same as griddle
cakes on a hot griddle or hoe. When done, put a bit of
butter on the top of each cake, and serve.
The old colored cooks in the South used to make these
to perfection, and baked them on their hoes hence the
name before a wood fire.
CORN DODGERS
2 cups of white meal i tablespoonful of lard
i teaspoonful of salt i egg
i tablespoonful of milk
Mix the salt and meal together dry, put the lard in the
centre, and pour over enough boiling water to wet the
BREAD 339
meal. Beat the egg until very light, add the milk and stir
into the meal. Beat the whole well. Drop by tablespoon-
fuls on greased pans, and bake in a very hot oven (380
Fahr.) for fifteen minutes.
JOHNNY CAKE
i pint of buttermilk 3 eggs
i pint of Indian meal 2 tablespoon fuls of melted
i teaspoon ful of salt butter
i teaspoonful of saleratus or soda
Beat the eggs all together until light, add them to the but-
termilk, then add the Indian meal; beat well. Dissolve
the saleratus or soda in two tablespoon fuls of boiling water,
add this, the butter, and salt to the batter, mix thoroughly,
and pour into a greased, shallow baking-pan. Bake in
a moderately quick oven for a half-hour.
PONE
Upon one quart of corn meal (white is best) pour just
enough boiling water to scald it through; stir it thoroughly,
let it stand until cold, then rub into it a piece of butter the
size of a walnut, and add a little salt. Beat two eggs until
light, without separating, add them to the meal, mix well ;
add one pint of sour milk or buttermilk, beat until smooth.
Dissolve one teaspoonful of soda in a tablespoonful of
boiling water, stir it into the mixture, turn into a greased
baking-pan, and bake in a quick oven for thirty-five min-
utes.
VIRGINIA BISCUIT
i quart of sifted flour % pound of butter
i teaspoonful of salt Water to moisten
Put the flour into a bowl, add the salt, then rub the butter
into it with the hands, add the water gradually until just
moist. Work and knead until smooth and elastic. Then
put the dough on a block and pound it with an axe until
340 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
full of bubbles. Roll out as thin as a wafer, cut into small
round cakes, stick with a fork here and there over the sur-
face, and bake in a quick oven until a very light brown
(about five minutes).
MARYLAND BISCUIT
i quart of flour i teaspoonful of salt
i large tablespoon ful of lard
Add the salt to the flour, then rub the lard thoroughly into
it with the hands. Put a half-pint of milk and a half-pint
of water into a pitcher, add it gradually to the flour, stir-
ring and kneading all the while add just enough to
moisten the flour, for the dough should be very stiff; knead
five minutes, and beat with an axe thirty minutes. Then
form into small round biscuits, stick with a fork here and
there over the surface, and bake in a moderately quick
oven about twenty or twenty-five minutes. They should
be browned on top and the sides almost white.
They should be as white as the driven snow inside,
with a slight crack around the sides.
EGG BISCUIT
i quart of flour
5 tablespoonfuls of butter (five ounces)
5 tablespoonfuls of sugar
i teaspoonful of baking-powder
5 e gg s
Mix the flour, sugar, salt and baking-powder together, and
then sift. Rub the butter into this, and then add the eggs
well beaten; knead until light and elastic, cover with a
damp towel and let stand fifteen minutes. Then roll out
into a sheet a quarter-inch thick, cut with a small round
cutter. Drop a few at a time into boiling water, until the
edges curl, then throw them into a pan of cold water for a
minute, place in greased pans and bake in a moderate oven
until a light brown.
BREAD 341
FRITTERS, DOUGHNUTS, CRULLERS, ETC.
PLAIN FRITTERS
Beat two eggs together until light, add to them one cup of
milk, a half-teaspoonful of salt, and sufficient flour to make
a thin batter that will pour from a spoon. Beat until
smooth. Have ready a deep pan of hot fat; add two
teaspoonfuls of baking-powder to the batter, mix thor-
oughly, and drop by spoonfuls into the hot fat. When
brown on one side, turn and brown on the other ; take out
with a skimmer, and serve very hot. Do not pierce them
with a fork, as it allows the steam to escape and makes the
fritter heavy.
FRENCH FRITTERS
1 cup of flour
YI cup of cold water
2 eggs
i tablespoonful of olive oil
YL teaspoonful of salt
Put the flour into a bowl ; beat the y6lks of the eggs, add
the cold water and stir this gradually into the flour ; now
add more water, if necessary, and give a good, vigorous
beating. Add salt and oil, and then stir in the whites of
the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and put away for at least
two hours, but not longer than twelve hours. Put a pan
of dripping or oil on to heat; when hot (360 Fahr.), dip
up a spoonful of the batter, and quickly slide it into the
fat ; when brown on one side turn and brown on the other.
When done, take out with a skimmer, drain on soft, brown
paper, dredge with powdered sugar, and serve.
Fruit fritters are made by dipping the fruit into this
batter and then frying.
342 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
JOLLY BOYS
1 pint of rye meal 2 large teaspoonfuls of bak-
YZ cup of Indian meal ing-powder or one tea-
Y?, teaspoonful of salt spoonful of cream of
2 tablespoonfuls of molasses tartar, and a half-tea-
i teaspoonful of cinnamon spoonful of soda
i cup of wheat flour 2 eggs
Mix the rye meal, flour, Indian meal, cinnamon, salt and
baking-powder well together; then add the eggs, well beaten,
two tablespoonfuls of molasses, and cold water enough
to make a very thick batter ; beat well and drop by spoon-
fuls into boiling fat. Brown on one side, then turn and
brown on the other. Take out with a skimmer, and serve
very hot.
The batter should be quite thick, almost like a soft
dough.
Nun's Butter should accompany these fritters.
JAPANESE FRITTERS
Cut stale bread into slices a half-inch thick, then cut the
slices in pieces about two inches square. Make a French
Fritter batter, soak these squares in the batter for about one
minute, and fry in boiling fat. When done, take out with
a skimmer, drain on brown paper, and serve very hot.
SNOW FRITTERS
i egg YZ pint of milk
i l /2 cups of flour ^ teaspoonful of salt
i pint of snow
Beat the egg until light, add to it the milk, then the salt
and flour, give a thorough and continuous beating for five
minutes. Have ready a pan of boiling fat, stir the snow
lightly into the batter, drop by spoonfuls into the boiling
fat, and fry until a nice brown.
BREAD 343
QUEEN FRITTERS
Make a batter and filling the same as for Cream Puffs (see
recipe for Cream Puffs). Have ready a frying-pan of hot
lard. With two teaspoons roll the batter into balls about
the size of a hickory-nut. As you make each ball, drop it
into the boiling fat, fry and turn until they have swollen
the size of an egg. When done, take out carefully with
a skimmer, drain, dust with powdered sugar, and stand
one side to cool. When cold, split one side with a sharp
knife, put a teaspoonful of the filling into the fritter, close,
and so continue until all are filled. Serve cold.
DOUGHNUTS
i pint of milk
y z cup of sugar
Flour sufficient to make a soft dough
3 e gg s
1 teaspoonful of salt
Y^ cup of yeast or half a compressed cake
2 ounces of butter
Scald the milk, add to it the butter and stand one side
to cool. When cool, add the yeast, sugar and flour ; beat
thoroughly, cover, and stand in a moderately warm place
over night. In the morning, beat the eggs until light, stir
them into the batter ; then add sufficient flour to make a
a soft dough, knead lightly, cover, and stand away until
light. When light, take out about half the dough, roll
it out on a baking-board, cut into doughnuts with a large,
round cutter ; then with a small cutter make a hole in the
centre. Spread a clean bread-cloth over the kitchen table,
dust it lightly with flour, place the doughnuts on this, cover,
and let stand a half-hour. Then have ready a deep kettle
of boiling fat (suet best). Put the doughnuts into this fat
upside down (i. e. , the side that was up on the table should
344 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
go down in the fat). In standing, a crust forms on the
surface, which prevents the doughnuts from becoming light
if they are placed in the fat with this crust uppermost.
Fry on one side, then turn by slipping a fork through the
hole in the centre ; do not stick it into the doughnut.
When done, drain, and dust with powdered sugar.
BREAD DOUGHNUTS
Take one pint of bread dough, when you are moulding it
for the pans, add to it two ounces of lard or butter, which
cut and work with a knife into the dough, adding flour to
prevent it sticking to the board. When soft and elastic,
place it in a bowl, cover, and stand in a warm place until
very light. When light, roll out and finish the same as
preceding recipe.
CRULLERS
2 ounces of butter
2 eggs
4 heaping tablespoon fuls of sugar
^ of a nutmeg, grated
Sufficient flour to make a dough
Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, then add the yolks
of the eggs and nutmeg ; beat again until light ; then add
the well-beaten whites, and sufficient flour, gradually, to
make a dough that will roll out on the board. Roll the
dough out into a sheet a quarter-inch thick, cut into pieces
about two inches square ; now make five incisions, cutting
to within one-third of an inch at either end ; take up every
other strip ; fold them in the middle and drop them quickly
into boiling fat. When brown, drain, dust with powdered
sugar, and stand away to cool.
BREAD 345
GERMAN CRULLERS
i cup of thick, sour cream i cup of sugar
3 cups of sifted flour 2 eggs
y?. teaspoonful of salt i heaping teaspoonful of
i teaspoonful of vanilla baking-powder
Beat the eggs until light ; then add the sugar ; beat again ;
add the sour cream ; mix ; add the vanilla and salt. Put
the baking-powder into the sifted flour and sift again ; now
add this to the other ingredients, mix, roll out on a board,
cut with a large, round cutter ; then with a small cutter
take out the centres. Drop them quickly into boiling fat,
brown on one side, turn and brown on the other. When
done, drain, and dust with powdered sugar.
To have these a perfect success, the dough must be as
soft as you can possibly handle it.
FRENCH CRULLERS
4 ounces of flour 2 ounces of butter
1/2, pint of water 4 eggs
Cut the butter into small pieces, put it into the water, and
stand over a good fire to boil ; as soon as it boils, add the
flour quickly, and stir over the fire until it sticks together
and rolls around in the saucepan like a ball. Then take it
from the fire, beat thoroughly, and stand in a warm place
(72 Fahr.) for a half-hour. Then add one egg unbeaten,
and beat the mixture until smooth ; then add another
egg, and beat again, and so continue until you have
added the four eggs ; then beat the mixture for five min-
utes, cover, and stand to one side for another half-hour.
Put one pound of lard or clarified dripping into a deep fry-
ing-pan, stand it on the fire to gradually heat. Put one cup
of powdered sugar on a dinner plate, add to it one tea-
spoonful of ground cinnamon ; mix. Now flour the baking-
346 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
board, put out a tablespoon ful of the mixture, and roll very
lightly. The mixture will be very soft, but a little practice
will enable you to handle it without adding much flour.
After rolling the mixture down to a quarter of an inch, cut
with a round cutter, then take out a centre with a small
cutter, lift carefully with a cake-turner, and slide into the
hot fat. Fry brown on one side, turn and brown on the
other. Take out, drain, then roll in the sugar and cinna-
mon.
These are very troublesome to make, but, when well
done, are most delicious.
Points to be remembered :
1. After adding the last egg, let the beating be rapid
and continuous.
2. Have the fat hot, but not smoking hot.
3. Use very little extra flour in rolling out.
ADDITIONAL RECIPES 347
348 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
ADDITIONAL RECIPES 349
350 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
CEREALS
WHEAT
We begin with wheat, which, on account of its nutritive
value, and the universality of its consumption, is placed at
the head of all cereals. The whole wheat grain constitutes
a perfect food. It consists of starch, gluten, sugar, gum,
fatty matter, husk, water, and salts (potash, soda, lime,
magnesia, phosphoric acid, etc.).
Wheat has several layers of bran coats. The outer
coat, or true bran, contains silica and some other elements
not found elsewhere in the grain, but is composed mostly
of woody fibre. When flour is unbolted (the bran not
separated), it is slightly increased in nutritive value, but at
the expense of digestibility ; consequently, bread contain-
ing bran should be rejected by persons of weak digestion.
Underneath the bran husk is a layer of rather darkish
matter, the gluten cells surrounded by diffused gluten, con-
taining the phosphates, other mineral matters, and the fatty
matter, which are bound in by the true bran. This internal
layer also contains cerealine. Beneath this are the cells
which form the central mass, composed chiefly of starch,
with a very little albumen and gluten. This part crumbles
easily to a fine dust, and forms cur fine white flour. By
this division it is seen that the brain, bone, and muscle-
(350
352 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
feeding elements lie just beneath the true bran, the heat
and force-producing elements in the central mass.
Wheat grown in different climates and soils, in wet
and dry seasons, contains different proportions of gluten.
The gluten of wheat is a gray, elastic, tough substance.
If you make a dough of flour and water, and work it
on a cloth drawn over a sieve, under a stream of water,
you wash away the starch, and have remaining this gray,
elastic sheet, closely resembling a soiled chamois skin. Now
dry it, and you have a substance glue-like in appearance,
hence its name, "gluten." This gluten consists chiefly of
vegetable fibrin. Flour-dealers and bakers determine the
quality of flour by the gluten it contains the more the
the better. Good flour should furnish sufficient gluten to
to enable the bread, after a thorough kneading, to swell
three times its original bulk ; while the flour containing
little gluten is soft and sticky, and, even after long kneading,
produces a soft, flat, and watery bread. Bread cannot be
made from pure gluten.
The Health Food Company make a most delicious
bread, which they call " gluten bread," but it also contains
starch.
Macaroni and vermicelli are made from gluten pastes.
Wheat grown in warm climates abounds most in gluten, con-
sequently our best macaroni comes from Italy.
Whole wheat grains, under the name of "cracked
wheat," are frequently and wisely used as an article of diet.
This should be boiled in a double boiler until the envelope
of the grain is burst open (about three or four hours, or over
night, on the back part of the fire), then eaten warm with
sugar, salt, and cream. (See Suitable Combinations of
Food.)
FARINA
This is an excellent preparation, made from wheat, in a
CEREALS 353
form generally acceptable to delicate stomachs. As it con-
tains nitrogenous matter, it is superior in nutritive value to
corn-starch or arrowroot as food for children. It is also
excellent food for adults. It may be used by those who
find grits or cracked wheat too irritating.
RYE
This cereal ranks next to wheat in nutritive qualities. It
contains more sugar and less gluten than wheat, conse-
quently has more heat-producing and less muscle and
brain -feed ing elements. It contains more waste material,
therefore it is more stimulating to the intestinal canal. It
makes a good winter, but poor summer, bread.
BARLEY
This grain is used mostly for malting purposes. It is less
nutritive than wheat, but is more easily digested, and
produces a decoction well adapted to persons of weak
digestion.
OATS
This grain is not used to any great extent as an article of
diet for man in this country Oatmeal stands at the head
of all other grains in point of flesh -producing, force-pro-
ducing, and nutritive power, containing the largest pro-
portion of nitrogenous matter, and furnishes the most ma-
terial for hard work. The nitrogenous matter of oatmeal
resembles casein (the nitrogenous matter of milk) more
than gluten. It, like cracked wheat, should be boiled for
hours, or it forms a most indigestible food for persons of
sedentary habits.
CORN
This grain contains more heat-producing and fat-forming
elements than wheat ; consequently, corn meal is best
adapted for a winter diet. It contains more than six times
as much oil as wheat. It is not glutinous, and hence will
354 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
not make a dough or fermented bread unless mixed with a
larger quantity of wheat flour. In consequence of the ex-
cess of oily matter contained in corn meal, it attracts much
oxygen from the atmosphere, and is very prone to change ;
it will not keep long. This quality is also wonderfully
shown in green corn. It changes and loses its flavor
almost as soon as picked. It is very important that corn
and corn -meal mush be well cooked.
HOMINY
This is Indian corn divested of its germ and outside skin,
the grain being left nearly whole.
SAMP OR BREAKFAST HOMINY
Each grain is hulled and broken up into a number of small
pieces.
HULLED CORN
This is corn soaked in an alkali to remove the hull. In
this way much of the oil is lost, and it therefore makes a
good summer food.
RICE
Rice is richest in starch, and most deficient in oil, of all
the cereals. It is the most digestible of vegetable foods.
Its nutritive value, however, is not equal to wheat, because
it is chiefly starch.
BUCKWHEAT
This grain is inferior to wheat in nutritive value, containing
more heat-producing food, and not half the muscle or
brain-food. Eaten alone, therefore, it is valueless as food.
CRACKED WHEAT
i quart of water i teaspoonful of salt
6 tablespoonfuls of cracked wheat
Mix the wheat, water, and salt together ; put this in the
farina boiler, and boil four hours, or over night, on the
back part of the stove. Serve warm, with sugar and cream.
CEREALS 355
FARINA
Add one teaspoon ful of salt to one quart of water or milk,
and then sift in, slowly, sufficient Hecker's Farina to make
a gruel. Stir and boil slowly for thirty minutes. Serve
with sugar and cream.
RYE MUSH
i quart of boiling water i teaspoonful of salt
5 heaping tablespoonfuls of rye meal
Sift the meal into the boiling water, stirring all the while ;
add the salt; stir until it boils again; cover, and cook
slowly one hour. Serve with sugar and cream.
BOILED BARLEY
Wash the barley through several cold waters, then cover
with cold water; bring quickly to a boil ; boil five minutes;
drain, cover with fresh boiling water, and boil slowly four
hours.
OATMEAL
i quart of boiling water i teaspoonful of salt
4 heaping tablespoonfuls of Akron or Irish oatmeal
Put the oatmeal, water, and salt, into a farina boiler; stir
until the salt is dissolved, and, if you want it for breakfast,
stand it on the back part of the fire over night. In the
morning, stand it over a hot fire, and let it boil one hour
without stirring. Then turn out carefully, so as not to
break the grains. Serve with cream.
HULLED CORN (Mrs. Adams)
Put two handfuls of clean hard-wood ashes in two quarts
of cold water; boil fifteen or twenty minutes; let stand
until the ashes settle and the water is perfectly clear. To
this cleansed water (it should be strong enough of the lye
to feel a little slippery), add as much cold water as is neces-
sary to cover the corn. Put the corn in the water; let it
boil until the hulls begin to start, then skim the corn out
into a pan of clear, cold water, and rub thoroughly with
356 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
the hands, to remove the hulls and cleanse the corn from
the lye, rub it through two or three, or even four, waters,
that there maybe no taste of lye; then put into clear water
and boil until tender.
BOILED RICE
Wash one cup of rice. Put three quarts of boiling water
into a kettle, add a teaspoonful of salt, and let it boil
rapidly ; sprinkle in the rice so gradually that you will not
stop the boiling. When you have it all in, give the water
a twirl with a fork, cover the kettle, and boil rapidly
twenty minutes. Then pour into a colander to drain.
Place the colander on a tin dish ; stand it in the oven
for five minutes, to dry, leaving the door wide open ; then
turn it carefully into a heated dish. Serve without a cover.
Points to be remembered : Boil rapidly from the time
you cover the kettle till you take it off. The rapid boiling
allows each grain to swell three times its normal size, and
the motion prevents the grains from sticking together.
Do not stir it, as this will cause it to fall to the bottom of
the kettle, and burn. The drying in the oven with the
door open evaporates the moisture, leaving the rice soft,
snowy white, and perfectly dry.
TO MAKE A RICE BORDER
Wash one cup of rice in cold water, and drain it. Put it
in a saucepan with one quart of boiling stock. Boil rapidly
for fifteen minutes, then stand it over a very moderate fire
to steam (not boil) for twenty minutes longer; drain,
season with salt and black pepper, and press into a well-
buttered border mould. Then put it in the oven and bake
fifteen minutes. Take out ; place a dish on the mould ;
turn it upside down, and remove the mould.
The hollow space in the centre may be filled with a
white or brown fricassee of chicken or a curry.
CEREALS 357
BOILED RICE Italian Style
Wash one cup of rice in cold water, and drain it. Have a
three-quart kettle nearly full of boiling water; add to it a
slice of bacon, a tablespoon ful of grated Parmesan, and a
pinch of saffron ; add the rice gradually, and finish accord-
ing to the recipe for Boiled Rice.
Remove the bacon before serving.
RICE CROQUETTES No. I
i pint of milk ^ cup of rice
Yolks of two eggs 2 large tablespoon ful s of sugar
yi teaspoon ful of vanilla ^ cup of raisins
% cup of currants % cup of citron
Wash the rice and put it in a farina boiler with the milk,
and boil until very thick; now add the yolks of the eggs,
and the sugar; beat until smooth. Take from the fire, add
the vanilla, and the fruit well floured. Turn out on a dish
to cool. When cold, form in pyramids; dip first in beaten
egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling oil or fat.
Put a small piece of currant jelly on the top of each
croquette ; dust the whole with powdered sugar, and serve
with Vanilla Sauce.
This quantity will make twelve croquettes.
RICE CROQUETTES No. 2
i quart of milk i cup of rice
Salt and white pepper to i tablespoonful of chopped
taste parsley
Yolks of four eggs
Wash the rice and put it in a farina boiler with the milk ;
boil about one hour, or until very thick ; then beat until
smooth ; add the yolks of the eggs, and cook ten minutes
longer. Take from the fire ; add the parsley and seasoning;
mix well, turn out on a plate, and stand away until very cold.
Then form into cylinders; dip first in beaten egg, then in
bread crumbs, and fry in boiling oil or fat.
MACARONI
Macaroni, as an article of food, is rather more valuable
than bread, as it contains a larger proportion of gluten.
It is the bread of the Italian laborer. In this country, it is
a sort of a luxury among the upper classes; but there is no
good reason, considering its price, why it should not enter
more extensively into the food of our working classes.
In selecting, choose that of a brownish color, rather
than the pure white.
Spighetti is the most delicate form of macaroni that
comes to this country.
MACARONI a 1' ITALIENNE
y pound of macaroni y% pint of milk
*4 pound of grated cheese Butter the size of a walnut
Salt and white pepper to taste
Break the macaroni in convenient lengths. Put it in a two-
quart kettle and nearly fill the kettle with boiling water;
add a teaspoonful of salt and boil rapidly twenty-five min-
utes; then drain; throw into cold water to blanch for ten
minutes. Put the milk into a farina boiler ; add to it the
butter, then the macaroni and cheese ; stir until thoroughly
heated, add the salt and pepper, and serve.
(358)
MACARONI 359
BAKED MACARONI
% pound of macaroni ^ cup of cream
Y^ pound of grated cheese i tablespoonful of butter
Salt and pep{>er
Break the macaroni in convenient lengths, put it in a two-
quart kettle and nearly fill the kettle with boiling water ;
add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil rapidly twenty-five min-
utes (the rapid boiling prevents the macaroni from sticking
together) ; drain in a colander ; then throw into cold water
to blanch for ten minutes; then drain again in the colan-
der. Put a layer of the macaroni in the bottom of a bak-
ing-dish ; then a layer of cheese, then a sprinkling of salt
and pepper, then another layer of macaroni, and so con-
tinue until all is used, having the last layer macaroni. Cut
the butter in small bits ; distribute them evenly over the
top; add the cream and bake until a golden brown (about
twenty minutes) in a moderately quick oven. Serve in the
dish in which it was baked.
CREAM MACARONI
(Mrs. S. W. R. Williams, of Philadelphia)
For a dish holding three pints, one-half pound of spighetti
will be required. Have ready a kettle full of boiling salted
water. Take the spighetti all up together, in the long
sticks, without breaking. Hold the ends in the boiling
water; in an instant it will go down into the water. Whirl
it round and round with a fork to thoroughly separate it,
then allow it to boil hard for twenty minutes. When done,
put it in a colander, and pour cold water through it (this
is called blanching). After it is drained, put it into the
dish in which it is to be baked.
FOR THE CREAM GRAVY
Put one and one-half pints of milk on to boil in a double
boiler. While it is boiling, stir smoothly together three
360 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
tablespoon fuls of flour and three scant tablespoonfuls of
butter. When smooth, stir carefully into the boiling milk,
and continue stirring for a few moments until it thickens.
Then stir into it three tablespoonfuls of grated cheese.
Parmesan is best, but any strong cheese will answer. Pour
it over the macaroni in the dish, sprinkle a little more
cheese over the top, and put in the oven to brown. The
macaroni may be boiled and arranged in the dish; the cream
gravy made, all but adding the cheese, and put in a covered
saucepan in the bain-marie to keep hot; do not put them
together until just as you are ready to put them into the
oven, as the cream will curdle if allowed to stand on the
macaroni. If yxm do not chance to have a silver baking-
dish, fold a napkin cornerwise and over and over until it
is the proper width for your dish, then fasten it around the
dish ; stand the dish in a pretty plate before sending it to
the table.
MACARONI WITH TOMATO SAUCE
^ pound of spighetti
i tablespoon ful of flour
i large tablespoonful of butter
y<z pint of stewed tomatoes
Salt and pepper to taste
Take a handful of the long sticks ; put the ends into boil-
ing salted water; as they soften, bend and coil the spighetti
in the water without breaking it. Boil rapidly twenty min-
utes. When done, put it in a colander to drain, then stand
the colander in a pan of cold water for fifteen minutes.
Put the butter in a frying-pan to melt ; add to it the flour ;
mix until smooth; then add the tomatoes (strained), and
stir continually until it boils. Now carefully add the
spighetti, let it boil up once, and serve without cutting.
MACARONI 361
MACARONI WITH CREAM SAUCE
Boil the macaroni as directed in the preceding recipe.
When done, put it in a colander to drain. Then put into
a heated dish, and pour over it Cream Sauce.
MACARONI CROQUETTES
6 ounces of macaroni 1/2 pint of milk
1 tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoon fuls of flour
2 tablespoonfuls of grated Yolks of three eggs
cheese Salt and pepper to taste
Break the macaroni in pieces about two inches long. Put
it in a kettle nearly full of boiling water, and boil rapidly
twenty-five minutes. When done, put it in a colander to
drain, then into cold water for fifteen minutes; drain again,
and then cut it in pieces a half-inch long. Put the milk on
to boil. Rub the butter and flour together until smooth; stir
into the milk when boiling, and stir continually until it
thickens; then add the-cheese and macaroni, salt, pepper,
and the yolks of the eggs; cook one minute longer ; then
turn out on a plate to cool. When cold, form into cone-
shaped croquettes ; roll first in egg and then in bread
crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Serve with Cream Sauce.
PLAIN BOILED MACARONI
y 2 pound of macaroni i large tablespoonful of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of flour Salt and pepper to taste
Break the macaroni in pieces about two inches long.
Nearly fill a two-quart kettle with boiling water; add to it
a teaspoonful of salt; throw in the macaroni, and boil rap-
idly thirty minutes. Then put it into a colander to drain ;
return it to the kettle, add a pint of boiling water ; salt and
pepper. Rub the butter and flour together until smooth ;
then stir it into the boiling macaroni, and stir continually
until it thickens.
362 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
MACARONI WITH BROWN SAUCE
]^ pound of macaroni 2 tablespoon fuls of Parmesan
i quart of stock Salt and pepper to taste
Break the macaroni in pieces two inches long. Put the
stock on to boil. When boiling, add the macaroni and
boil rapidly for thirty minutes. When done, put it in a
colander to drain. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a
frying-pan ; and, when brown, add one tablespoonful of
flour; mix until smooth; then add a half-pint of stock and
stir continually until it boils; add the cheese, then the
macaroni, and let it boil up once. Season to taste, and
serve.
MACARONI TIMBALE
6 ounces of cooked ham, chopped fine
4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs
i tablespoonful of stock
i egg
i teaspoonful of mushroom catsup
1 teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce
2 ounces of macaroni boiled and cut in
pieces one inch long.
Mix the crumbs and meat well together; then add the
stock, seasoning and sauces; mix, and add the egg, well
beaten. Grease a plain pudding mould, and line it with
the boiled macaroni; fill with the mixture, and press in
compactly. Put the lid on the mould and fasten it. Then
stand the mould in a kettle, with sufficient boiling water
to about two-thirds cover it. Now put the lid on the kettle,
and boil for one hour. When done, turn it from the
mould, pour Cream Sauce around it, and serve.
CHEESE AND NOODLES
Cheese may be regarded as our most concentrated food.
It contains almost twice as much nutriment as any other
known substance. Being difficult of digestion, it should
be taken only in small quantities. Old cheese, being in a
state of decomposition, taken after a hearty meal, mingling
with the contents of the stomach, will aid digestion by
exciting fermentation.
Cooked or melted cheese forms a most valuable and
nutritious food, and is much more easily digested than when
eaten raw. Mattieu Williams says : " I regard it as the
most important of all that I have to describe in connection
with my subject the 'Science of Cookery.' Its cookery is
singularly neglected is practically an unknown art espe-
cially in this country ; and all that is required to render it,
next to bread, the staple food of Britons, is scientific
cookery."
CHEESE SOUFFLE (Williams)
J( pound of cheese i gill of milk
% teaspoonful of bi-carbon- i teaspoonful of flour of
ate of potash mustard
i sal tspoon of white pepper i grain of cayenne
y$ part of a nutmeg, grated 2 ounces of butter
3 eggs 2 tablespoonfuls baked flour
Chop the cheese ; add the potash to the milk, then add the
(363)
364 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
cheese, mustard, pepper, cayenne and nutmeg ; rub the
butter and flour together and add that. Heat this care-
fully until the cheese is dissolved. Then beat the eggs,
yolks and whites together, and add them to this solution of
cheese, stirring the whole. Now take a shallow metal or
earthenware dish or tray, that will bear heating, and put a
little butter on it, and heat the butter until it frizzles.
Then pour the mixture into the tray, and bake or fry until
nearly solidified.
TOASTED CHEESE OR SCOTCH RARE-BIT
y<z pound of rich cheese 4 slices of bread
Salt and cayenne to taste
Cut the cheese into very thin slices, spread it on a heated
flat dish, and stand it over boiling water to melt. While
this is melting, toast the bread, and butter it ; place it on
a hot dish, add the seasoning to the cheese, and spread it
over the toast. Serve very hot.
WELSH RARE-BIT
2 cups of grated cheese j^ cup of milk
Yolks of two eggs Salt and cayenne to taste
Toast carefully square slices of bread with the crusts re-
moved ; while hot, butter them, and then plunge in a bowl
of hot water. Place on a heated dish and stand in the
oven to keep warm while you make the rare-bit. Put the
milk into a porcelain-lined or granite saucepan ; stand it
over a moderate fire ; when boiling hot, add the cheese ;
stir continually until the cheese is melted ; add the salt,
cayenne and yolks, and pour it over the toasted bread.
If the rare-bit is stringy and tough, it is the fault of
the cheese not being rich enough to melt.
Old English dairy cheese makes the best Welsh rare-bit.
CHEESE 365
GOLDEN BUCK
2 cups of grated cheese
i^ teaspoon ful of mustard
i dash of cayenne
i cup of milk
. y? teaspoonful of salt
6 squares buttered toast
6 poached eggs
Put the milk cm to boil in a porcelain or granite saucepan ;
add to it the cheese, mustard, salt and cayenne; stir con-
stantly until the cheese is melted. Have ready the toast,
pour enough of the cheese over each piece to cover it, put
a poached egg carefully on the top of each piece, dust
lightly with pepper and salt, and serve immediately.
CHEESE FINGERS
Roll out puff paste into a thin sheet ; brush it over lightly
with ice-water, cut into strips about five inches long and a
half-inch wide ; sprinkle over them grated cheese, put one
strip over the other, lay on a greased tin sheet, and bake in
a quick oven fifteen minutes.
CHEESE STRAWS
2 ounces of flour A little cayenne
3 ounces of grated Parmesan A little salt
Yolk of one egg
Mix the flour, cayenne, salt and cheese together, and
moisten with the egg ; work all into a smooth paste. Roll
out on a board, one-eighth of an inch thick, five inches
wide, and five inches long. Cut some of the paste in
small rings, and some in strips of one-eighth of an inch
wide. Place both on greased sheets and bake ten minutes
in an oven (240 Fahr.) till a light brown. Put the straws
through the rings like a bundle of sticks.
366 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
CHEESE RAMAKINS (Henderson)
4 tablespoon fuls of grated 2 tablespoon fuls of butter
cheese 2 ounces of bread
i gill of milk y$ teaspoonful of mustard
Yolks of two eggs Whites of three eggs
Cayenne and salt to taste.
Put the bread and milk on to boil. Stir and boil until
smooth; then add the cheese and butter. Stir over the
fire for one minute ; take off, add seasoning and the yolks
of the eggs. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and stir them
in carefully. Pour into a greased baking-dish, and bake
fifteen minutes in a quick oven.
SCHMIER-KASE
This is made from clabbered milk. After taking the cream
from the top of a pan of thick, sour milk, stand the pan
on the back part of the range, and pour over it about three
quarts of boiling water ; then turn the whole into a bag
to drain. Hang it in a cool place over night. When ready
to use, mix and beat it until light ; add salt, pepper and
sufficient sweet cream to make it the proper consistency.
Serve very cold. This is also called cottage-cheese.
CREAM CHEESE WITH NOODLES
Put two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour in z. plate. Make a
well in the center, put into it the yolks of two eggs and a
quarter- teaspoonful of salt. Mix the flour gradually into
the yolks. Work until the dough thus produced is perfectly
free from stickiness; now roll it out into a very thin sheet,
place it on a napkin, and hang in the air a minute to dry ;
then roll tightly and cut into fine noodles; shake out again
to dry. When dry, cover with boiling water ; add a tea-
spoonful of salt, and boil fifteen minutes. Drain, turn in a
hot dish, and pour over a Welsh Rare-bit (page 364).
TO COOKS
On first going into a new family, make friends with the
other servants, as they will acquaint you with the customs
of the house. Be especially kind to the waitress or waiter, as
from either you can find out how your dishes are received
in the dining-room, and this will enable you to rectify many
mistakes and learn the peculiar family tastes; that is,
whether or not they like onion, cayenne, or much sugar,
and many other small points that will greatly assist you,
and, as you are not cooking to suit your own taste, but that
of your employers, study well these small points. Give
your whole time and attention to your work. Make the
most simple dish appetizing and nutritious.
Save all materials left over from meals, as they will
help to make a little side dish for to-morrow's breakfast or
luncheon.
Have regular days for each kind of work. Keep every-
thing in its proper place, which should be a convenient one,
selected by yourself, and remember that no matter how
great the hurry, it requires no more time to put things
back in their proper places than to stand them down hap-
hazard.
Study the draughts of your range. Keep in mind that
a red top always indicates a cool oven. Close the damp-
(367)
368 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
ers, and this will throw the heat around the oven. Pull the
dampers out only when you wish the heat or gas to escape
into the chimney. " Fix " your fire as soon as breakfast
is over. Open the draughts and dust damper, rake the
fire well, until free from every particle of ashes; then
open the top and brush the soot and the small pieces of
coal, if any, from the top of the oven into the fire. See
that the corners are free from ashes, and fill the fire-box
even full with coal ; that is, just to the tops of the fire-
bricks, and close the dust damper. If you add more coal
than this, you cut off the upper draught, and, of course,
lose much heat. Now clean out the ashes, and carry them
away. Dust the range or stove, and polish it while cool.
A paint-brush makes a very nice brush for putting on the
polish. Watch the fire carefully, allowing it to burn
briskly until the blue flames appear on the surface, and
then, if you are not going to use it immediately, open the
top (the dampers being out), and thus keep it in good con-
dition until wanted. Always take off the draughts as soon
as you have finished a meal, thereby saving labor and fuel.
The best ranges are ruined, and large quantities of coal are
wasted daily by filling the ranges too full and leaving the
draughts open to burn like a fiery furnace.
Use everything for its proper purpose. Do not strain
the bouillon or soup through the finest napkin, when there
are soup-strainers hanging in the kitchen.
Let your dress be simple and neat, your head perfectly
smooth and tidy. A white linen cap, that can be washed
every week, will keep the odors from your hair, and add to
your tidy appearance. Keep yourself and kitchen as clean
as possible ; make no dirt, and thereby save yourself the
trouble of constant cleaning. Never use your hands when
a knife or a spoon will answer.
As every one likes variety, do not serve the same dish
TO COOKS 869
twice in one week unless it be a vegetable ; nor do I like the
way of serving certain dishes the same day every week,
for instance, beef on Monday, chicken on Tuesday, etc.
In this way the family anticipate, and it spoils the true en-
joyment of their meals.
Never give " things " out the alley gate unless you are
told by the mistress to do so.
If your mistress finds fault, bear it patiently ; it is she,
and not yourself, for whom you are working, and it is your
whole duty to please her. One rude answer might cost you
a good situation. Receive your orders attentively. If you
cannot rely upon your memory, have a slate and write them
down. This slate will also answer for memorandums of
things wanted.
Visit the cellar every morning. See if the meat and
poultry are keeping properly. Look at the stock. In fact,
examine all the eatables to see if they require cooking.
Clean your refrigerator twice a week, if it has a metal
lining ; if a " Ridgway," once a week is quite sufficient.
Be scrupulously particular about the care of food and
utensils. Dry your saucepans before putting them away,
that they may not rust. Wash all knives and forks, without
wetting the handles, quickly after using them. If you use
copper utensils, see that the tin lining does not become
worn off ; if it does, have it instantly repaired.
Throw jelly-bags, pudding-cloths, and strainer-cloths
into clear warm water immediately after using them. As
soon as you have leisure, wash them through several waters ;
if they are greasy, use borax ; scald them, rinse well, and
hang to dry. When thoroughly dry, fold neatly and put
away in their proper places.
Always keep a brush for your sink, another for the
baking-boards and other clean purposes, another small one
for pots and pans. Pour boiling soda-water down your
370 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
sink every morning ; this prevents the drain from being
clogged with grease. Never drain onion or cabbage water
down the kitchen sink, as in that way the house is per-
meated with the odor.
If a dinner-party is in prospect, ask early for the bill
of fare, and prepare as many dishes as possible the day
before, to avoid confusion on the fixed day.
Be just and honest ; do as you would be done by ; re-
member that you occupy the chief position among the ser-
vants of the household, a position upon which the health
and happiness of the family depend, and you will always
be worthy of the greatest respect. You may be sure of
success and a good home.
PASTRY AND PIES
To make a light, crisp, and flaky crust, use a good, fine
flour and none but the best butter. Have everything, in-
cluding yourself, cool. A marble slab makes the best
pastry-board. Use a glass rolling-pin, if convenient; if
not, one made from hard wood with movable handles.
Always use ice or very cold water in mixing, and keep the
paste in a cold place. Plain paste is improved by keeping
it on the ice before using it. Puff paste may be kept four
or five days. If you should stand your paste outside in
cold weather, to cool, be careful that it does not freeze, as
this spoils its lightness. No matter how light your paste
may be, the substance of each stratum is dense and hard
of digestion, and should never be eaten by persons of weak
digestive powers.
PUFF PASTE
" If 'twere done when '/is done,
Then "'twere well 'twere done quickly'" 1 MACBETH.
i pound of sifted flour i teaspoonful of sugar
i pound of good butter White of one egg
i teaspoonful of salt A cup or more of ice-water
Scald a large bowl, then fill it with cold water, and let stand
until the bowl is cold. Wash the hands in hot soapsuds,
then rinse them in cold water, but do not dry them. This
prevents the butter from sticking to the hands and bowl.
(371)
372 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Turn the water out of the bowl, and nearly fill it with ice-
water, put the butter into it, and wash by working it with
the hands under the water until it becomes soft and elastic ;
then pat it into a cake, and put it on the ice until wanted.
Put the flour on a marble slab or a very large meat plate,
make a well in the centre of it, and put into this well a lump
of the washed butter the size of an egg, the white of the
egg, sugar, and salt. Now work this with the thumb and two
fingers to a paste, add gradually the ice-water, and gradually
work in the flour. When all is worked in, knead as you
would bread for five minutes, then cut the paste into halves,
roll out each half into a sheet, quickly break the butter into
bits, and lay it over one sheet ; dredge it thickly with flour,
cover with the other sheet, pound lightly with the rolling-
pin ; roll from you, into a long, thin sheet ; now fold in
first the sides, then the ends ; turn the paste around so that
the fold will run to and from you. Now roll from you
again, fold as before, place it on a tin pie dish, and stand
it away on the ice for fifteen minutes, then roll and fold
twice again, and again stan$ on the ice. Do this until you
have rolled it eight times. Let it stand on the ice over
night, and it is ready for use.
If then rolled in a napkin, and put in a cold, dry
place, it will keep nicely for one week.
It is almost impossible for any one to make good puff
paste from a recipe without first seeing it made.
TO BAKE PUFF PASTE.
The most important part of all is the oven, for if you have
used the best materials, have mixed them as directed, and
then put the paste in an oven not properly heated, you
have wasted both materials and labor. The paste should
be icy cold when it is put into the oven, and the oven
should be very hot (460 Fahr.).
PASTRY AND PIES 373
For patties, the oven should have a strong under-heat,
allowing them to rise their full height before browning.
Then put them on the grate to brown. If the oven should
be too hot, and the paste begins to brown as soon as it is
put in the oven, quickly open the draughts of the stove and
stand a small basin of ice-water in the oven. This will
immediately reduce the temperature.
PLAIN PASTE WITH BUTTER
3 cups of sifted flour i cup or a half-pound of butter
i teaspoon ful of salt i teaspoonful of sugar
Nearly a cup of ice-water
Have everything as cold as possible. In warm weather,
stand the butter and flour in the refrigerator several hours
before using them. Sift the flour, measure, and put into a
large mixing-bowl ; add the salt and sugar ; then place the
butter in the centre of the flour, and with a sharp knife cut
it quickly into small pieces, at the same time mixing it with
the flour ; now add the ice-water gradually, lifting with
the knife that portion which you have moistened first, and
pushing it to one side of the bowl, wet another portion,
and so continue until all is moistened. Then cut and mix
it together until you can lift it from the bowl with the
knife. (A word of caution : add the water very carefully,
wetting only the dry flour, never stirring twice in the same
place.) Dredge the baking-board lightly with flour, turn
the paste out on this, dredge with flour, and roll lightly
and quickly from you into a long, thin sheet. Fold first
the sides and then the ends, turn the paste around and roll
from you again, as before ; fold and roll again ; then fold
and stand on the ice until wanted.
To have this paste a perfect success, the materials
should be very cold, mixed and rolled quickly, using as
little flour as possible in finishing.
374 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
PLAIN PASTE WITH LARD
Many housekeepers always use lard instead of butter for
pastry, simply because it is cheaper ; but, as it makes a
greasy and brittle crust, there is no doubt that it is more
indigestible than the light, flaky, and tender crust made
from good, sweet butter. For the benefit of those who use
lard the following recipe is given :
i quart of sifted flour
i cup of lard
i teaspoon ful of salt
Nearly a cup of ice-water
Make and roll precisely the same as Plain Paste with Butter.
PLAIN PASTE HALF AND HALF
i quart of sifted flour
YZ cup of lard ( ^ fib)
YZ cup of butter (^ lb)
i teaspoon ful of salt
Nearly a cup of ice-water
Wash the butter as directed in recipe for Puff Paste ; put
it on the ice until wanted. Put the flour into a mixing-
bowl, add the salt, mix, and with the hands quickly rub
into it the lard ; add the water gradually, moistening as
directed in Plain Paste with Butter. Dredge the baking-
board lightly with flour, turn the paste out on this, and roll
from you into a long, thin sheet. Now take the butter
from the ice, break it quickly into small bits and place
them over the paste ; dredge quickly with flour, fold in the
sides, then the ends; turn so that the last fold will run
to and from you, and roll from you again. Never roll but
the one way. Now fold the same as before, and roll out
again ; do this four times. Stand it on the ice, or in a
cold place, for one hour, and it is ready for use.
Jt may be kept two or three days in a cold place,
PASTRY AND PIES 375
SUET PASTE
i pound of flour i cup of ice-water
6 ounces of beef's suet i teaspoonful of salt
Remove the fibre from the suet, and chop it very fine ; add
gradually the flour ; then add the salt ; mix with a knife, and
add gradually the water more or less, as the flour requires
roll out, and it is ready for use.
This paste is nice for apple dumplings and meat pies.
POTATO PASTE
2 cups of mashed potatoes (hot)
y 2 cup of cream
i tablespoonful of butter
Salt to taste
Beat the potatoes until light ; add the butter, cream and salt,
and beat again ; then add sufficient flour to make a soft
dough ; handle as lightly as possible, roll out, and it is
ready to use.
This is nice for meat or potato pies, or apple dump-
lings.
>
APPLE PIE
3 large greenings or other ^ cup of sugar
tart apples 2 tablespoonfuls of water
i tablespoonful of butter
Pare and slice the apples. Line a tin pie dish with good,
plain paste ; fill it with the sliced apples, strew over the
sugar ; add water, butter cut into bits, and if you like it
a quarter-teaspoonful of cinnamon. Now roll out a
piece of paste a little larger than the top of the pie, make
a gash in the centre of it ; wet the rim of the lower crust
with cold water ; put the upper crust on, press the edges
together, and bake in a quick oven (400 Fahr.) for a half-
hour.
376 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
APPLE TART
Pare, quarter and core any kind of tart apples. Line pie
dishes with plain paste ; then put in a layer of the quarters,
sprinkle with two tablespoon fuls of sugar and a teaspoon ful
of cinnamon ; add two tablespoonfuls of water and one
ounce of butter cut into bits and placed here and there
over the apples. Bake in a quick oven until the apples are
tender.
Peach tarts may be made in the same manner, omit-
ting the cinnamon and dividing the peaches in halves.
CHEESE CAKE
i^ cups of cottage cheese Juice and rind of a lemon
2 tablespoonfuls of cream or one teaspoon ful of
Y^ cup of sugar vanilla
3 eggs i teaspoonful melted butter
Press the cheese through a colander, beat the eggs until
light, add them with all the other ingredients to the cheese ;
beat until smooth. Line a deep pie dish with plain paste,
fill with this mixture, and bake in a quick oven for thirty
minutes.
The quantities given will make only one pie.
CHERRY PIE
The common red or morella cherries make the best pies.
Stone the cherries. Line deep pie dishes with good plain
paste, fill them nearly full of stoned cherries, sprinkle over
four large tablespoonfuls of sugar, and dredge this lightly
with flour ; cover with the upper crust, rolled out as thin
as possible, trim the edges neatly with a sharp knife. Make
a vent in the centre; press the edges tightly together so
that the juices of the fruit may not run out while baking.
Serve the same day they are baked, or the under crust will
be heavy.
PASTRY AND PIES 377
COCOANUT CUSTARD
1 pint of milk ^ cup of sugar
2 eggs ^ of a nutmeg, grated
i cup of grated cocoanut
Beat the eggs and sugar together until light, then add the
milk, nutmeg, and cocoanut. Line two pie 'dishes with
plain paste, fill them with this mixture, and bake in a quick
oven for thirty minutes.
CRANBERRY PIE No. i
Line a pie dish with plain paste, then fill it with uncooked
cranberries; add a half-cup of molasses, and four table-
spoonfuls of sugar, cover with an upper crust, and bake in
a quick oven for thirty minutes. GOOD.
CRANBERRY PIE No. 2
Line a pie dish with plain paste, then fill with stewed cran-
berries; cover with an upper crust, and bake in a quick
oven for thirty minutes.
CRANBERRY TARTS
Fill patty or plain shells with stewed cranberries.
CREAM PIE
i pint of milk A piece of butter the size
i heaping tablespoonful of a walnut
of corn -starch Juice and rind of one lemon
Whites of four eggs or a teaspoon ful of
y 2 cup of sugar vanilla
Line three pie dishes with plain paste ; bake in a quick
oven fifteen or twenty minutes. When done, take from
the oven and stand aside until wanted. Put the milk on to
boil in a farina boiler. Moisten the corn-starch with a
378 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
little cold milk, stir it into the boiling milk and stir con-
tinually until it thickens, then add the sugar. Beat the
whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, stir them carefully into
the boiling mixture, take from the fire and add the flavor-
ing. Fill the shells of baked paste with this mixture, and
put in the oven until a nice brown.
Serve very cold.
GENERAL SATISFACTION
Line a pie dish with puff paste. Wet the edge of the paste
around the pie dish with a little cold water. Cut the trim-
mings left, into strips about a half-inch wide and put these
around the edge of the dish so as to form two or three
layers of paste. Put a layer of preserves in the bottom of
the dish, then a layer of stale cake broken into small pieces.
Moisten one tablespoonful of flour gradually with one gill
of milk; beat until smooth; stir over the fire until it boils
and thickens; add one ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of
vanilla, and stand away to cool. When cold, add the well-
beaten yolk of one egg and sugar to taste. Pour this over
the layer of cake, and bake in a quick oven for twenty-five
minutes, or until the paste is thoroughly done. Then beat
the whites of three eggs to a very stiff froth with two table-
spoonfuls of powdered sugar, place them by spoonfuls over
the top of the pie, and place again in the oven for a few
minutes to brown.
GREEN GOOSEBERRY PIE
Top and tail the gooseberries. For one quart of goose-
berries, line two deep pie dishes with good plain paste; fill
with the gooseberries, add nearly one cup of sugar to each
pie, cover with an upper crust, and bake in a quick oven
forty minutes.
PASTRY AND PIES 379
RIPE GOOSEBERRY PIE
Make the same as Green Gooseberry Pie, using one-third
less sugar.
HUCKLEBERRY PIE
Make the same as Cherry Pie, using two large tablespoon-
fuls of sugar instead of four.
Blackberry, raspberry, plum, and strawberry pies are
made in the same manner.
LEMON CUSTARD
i cup of sugar i tablespoonful of flour
3 eggs 2 tablespoon fuls of powdered
i cup of milk sugar
Juice and rind of one lemon
Beat the cup of sugar and yolks of eggs together, add the
juice and rind of the lemon. Put the flour into a cup, and
add the milk very gradually, stirring all the while, then
pour it through a sieve into the eggs and sugar. Line a
deep pie plate with puff paste, pour in the mixture, and
bake in a quick oven thirty minutes. Add gradually three
tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar to the whites of the eggs,
beating all the while; when it is all in, beat until stiff and
glossy, then place over the top of the pie by spoonfuls, and
put back in the oven to brown.
GRANDMOTHER'S LEMON CUSTARD
i pound of powdered sugar Yolks of six eggs
^ pound of butter Whites of four eggs
Juice and rind of three lemons
Beat the yolks and sugar to a cream, then add the whites
unbeaten, one at a time, and beat the whole until very
light. Beat the butter to a cream, and add the other mix-
ture gradually to it; now stand the bowl in a basin of boil-
ing water over the fire and stir continually until the mixture
thickens ; take from the fire, and stand away to cool. Line
380 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
two deep pie dishes with good plain paste, and bake in a
quick oven for fifteen minutes. When done, take out and
fill with the lemon mixture. Add gradually six tablespoon -
fuls of powdered sugar to the whites of six eggs, beating
all the while; after you have added all the sugar, beat until
very stiff and glossy; put this meringue over the top of the
pie and stand it in the oven until a golden brown.
LEMON PIE
1 cup of sugar i cup of water
2 tablespoon fuls of flour Juice and rind of one large
i egg lemon
i soda cracker
Beat the sugar and egg together, then add the water, then
the cracker rolled, then the juice and rind of the lemon.
Moisten the flour with just a little cold water, and stir it
into the other mixture. Line two pie dishes with plain
paste, pour in the mixture, cover with an upper crust,
and bake in a quick oven for thirty minutes.
MARLBOROUGH PIE
6 medium-sized apples i tablespoon ful of butter (i oz.)
3 eggs Juice and rind of one lemon
i cup of sugar i cup of cream
2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, if you use wine
Steam the apples until tender, then press them through a
sieve, and add to them, while hot, the butter; let stand
until cooL When cold, add the yolks of the eggs well
beaten, the juice and rind of the lemon, the sugar, cream
and sherry. Line two deep pie dishes with plain paste, fill
them with this mixture, and bake in a quick oven for thirty
minutes. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add-
ing to them gradually two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar,
then heap over the top of the pies, and return them to the
oven until a light brown,
PASTRY AND PIES 381
MINCE MEAT
2 pounds of beef (sticking 2 pounds of beefs suet
piece best) i^ pound of candied lemon
2 pounds of layer raisins peel
2 pounds of currants, picked, 4 pounds of apples
washed, and dried 2 pounds of Sultana raisins
1 pound of citron 2 pounds of sugar
2 nutmegs, grated ^ ounce of cinnamon
% ounce of cloves % ounce of mace
i quart of sherry or good i teaspoon ful of salt
home-made currant wine i quart of good brandy
Juice and rind of two oranges
Juice and rind of two lemons
Cover the meat with boiling water and simmer gently until
tender, then stand away until cold. Shred the suet and
chop it fine. Pare, core and chop the apples. Stone the
raisins. Shred the citron. When the meat is perfectly
cold, chop it fine, and mix all the dry ingredients with it ;
then add the juice and rinds of the lemons and oranges,
mix well, and pack in a stone jar; pour over the brandy
and wine, cover closely and stand in a cool place. Mince
meat made by this recipe will keep all winter. When ready
to use, dip out the quantity desired, and thin with cider
or wine.
One word here about cleaning the currants. First put
them into a large bowl, and to every pound add a half-cup
of flour ; mix the flour thoroughly through the currants,
and then rub them between the hands until all the stems
are rubbed off; put them in a colander, and pour over end-
less quantities of cold water until all the twigs, gravel
stones and sand are washed off; now scald them, then
wash again in cold water, drain, spread them on pie dishes,
and stand in a cool oven, with the door open, to dry.
Fresh beefs tongue or heart may be boiled, chopped,
and used instead of beef, if preferred.
382 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
MIRLITONS
i pint of milk 6 macaroons
i tablespoonful of grated i tablespoon ful of sugar
chocolate Yolks of three eggs
i teaspoonful of vanilla
Pound the macaroons and press them through a colander,
add them and the chocolate to the milk ; let stand ten
minutes. Now add the yolks, well beaten, sugar and van-
illa. Line patty-pans with puff paste, fill with this mixture,
and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes,
MOCK MINCE PIE
i cup of raisins, chopped ^ of a cup of molasses
fine Y?, cup of cider
i egg 2 Boston crackers
i tablespoonful of vinegar y 2 cup of sugar
y% cup of washed currants j cup of cut citron
y^ teaspoonful of salt Juice and rind of one lemon
Roll the crackers and mix them with the fruit ; add salt,
beaten eggs, molasses, cider, vinegar, sugar, lemon and
spice to taste. Mix all well together, and finish the same
as Apple Pie.
MOLASSES PIE
9 tablespoonfuls of molasses
6 tablespoonfuls of vinegar
1^/2, tablespoonfuls of flour
YZ teaspoonful of cinnamon
^ of a nutmeg, grated
A piece of butter the size of a walnut
Moisten the flour with the vinegar, add it to the molasses ;
mix until smooth, then add the spices, and the butter,
melted. Line a deep pie dish with plain paste, fill with
this mixture, and bake in a quick oven for thirty minutes.
PASTRY AND PIES 383
PAGANINI TARTLETS
Line patty-pans with puff paste, and bake them fifteen
minutes in a quick oven. When done, take them out, put
a half-teaspoon ful of orange marmalade on each patty,
cover with a meringue, and put back in the oven a few
minutes to brown.
PEACH MERINGUE
Pare and stew one dozen peaches, and press through a col-
ander to remove the stones. Line two deep pie dishes
with plain paste ; sweeten the peaches to taste ; fill the
dishes even full, and bake in a quick oven twenty-five min-
utes. Then beat the whites of six eggs and six tablespoon-
fuls of powdered ~sugar to a stiff froth, add a teaspoon ful of
vanilla. Cover the pies with this meringue about three-
quarters of an inch thick, and put back in the oven until
a nice brown.
Apple meringue is made in the same way.
PEACH PIE
Line pie dishes with good plain paste. Pare, cut the peaches
in halves, and take out the stones, then lay them in the
dishes, sprinkle lightly with sugar, add a quarter-cup of
water, cover with an upper crust, and bake in a quick oven
for thirty minutes; or the peaches may be thoroughly
rubbed without paring, slightly mashed and baked without
stoning.
SWEET POTATO CUSTARD
2 good-sized sweet potatoes i cup of milk
3 eggs ^ cup of sugar
A piece of butter the size 2 tablespoon fuls of brandy,
of a walnut if you use liquor
i teaspoonful of cinnamon
Wash the potatoes and parboil them, then stand away until
quite cold. When cold, peel and grate them. Beat the
384 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
butter, sugar, and the yolks of the eggs until very light,
add the potatoes by degrees, stirring all the while, then add
all the other ingredients. Line a deep pie dish with plain
paste, fill it with this mixture, and bake for thirty minutes.
Then beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, with two
tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, heap this over the top
of the pie, and put back in the oven until a light brown.
WHITE POTATO CUSTARD
i pound of sugar Juice and rind of two lemons
i pint of milk 6 eggs
i tablespoonful of butter (one ounce)
Beat the eggs all together until light, then add the sugar
and butter ; beat again. Pare the potatoes and grate them
into the milk, then add these to the eggs and sugar, add
the juice and rind of the lemons, and it is ready for use.
PUMPKIN PIE
Pare and cut the pumpkin in pieces about one inch
square ; put them into a stewing-pan with just enough
water to keep them from burning; stew slowly until tender
(about a half-hour), then press through a colander. To
every half-pint of pumpkin, add a piece of butter the size
of a walnut, and a quarter-teaspoonful of salt; mix, and
let stand until cold. When cold, put one pint of this
pumpkin into a large bowl, add to it one pint of milk, a
half-teaspoonful of ground mace, the same of ground cin-
namon, and one teaspoonful of ground ginger; mix all
well together, and sweeten to taste. Beat four eggs until
light, then add them to the mixture. Line four deep pie
plates with good plain paste, fill with this mixture, and
bake in a quick oven (400 Fahr.) for about thirty minutes.
The Kershaw pumpkin is best for pies.
If you use liquor, a gill of brandy may be added to
the recipe given.
PASTRY AND PIES 385
RHUBARB PIE
Line deep pie dishes with good plain paste. Wash the
tender stalks of rhubarb, but do not peel ; cut them into
thin slices, fill the dishes even full, and to each pie add five
heaping tablespoon fuls of sugar. Cover the pie with an
upper crust, press the edges tightly together, and pick the
upper crust here and there with a fork to allow the escape
of steam. Bake in a moderately quick oven for forty
minutes.
RICHMOND MAIDS OF HONOR
i cup of sour milk i teaspoonful of vanilla
i cup of sweet milk 3 eggs
YZ cup of sugar ^ teaspoonful of salt
2 tablespoon fuls of powdered sugar
Put the sour and sweet milk on to boil in a farina boiler,
and boil until it curds; then strain and press it through a
sieve, add to it the yolks of the eggs, the sugar and vanilla.
Beat until very smooth. Line little patty pans with puff
paste rolled very thin. Fill a little more than half full of
the mixture, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes.
Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add to them the
powdered sugar, heap some on the top of each patty, and
put in the oven for a minute to brown. Do not remove
from the pans until cold.
It is said that the original recipe for these was furnished
by a maid of Queen Elizabeth, at her palace at Richmond,
England.
WASHINGTON PIES
i tablespoonful of butter y 2 cup of milk
i cup of sugar 2 cups of flour
i egg i tablespoonful of ginger
i teaspoonful of cinnamon
Beat the egg, sugar, and butter together until light, then
386 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
add the milk, ginger, cinnamon, flour, and a half-teaspoon -
fill of baking-powder; beat thoroughly until smooth. Line
two Washington pie plates with plain paste, put the mixture
into them, and bake in a moderately quick oven for thirty
minutes. When done, ice with a clear icing, and stand
away to cool.
VOL-AU-VENT
A vol-au-vent is very difficult to make, even by the most
experienced cook, and cannot be made perfectly without
first taking a lesson. For those who wish to try it, the fol-
lowing recipe is given:
Make puff paste as directed, and stand it on the ice
over night. The next morning, roll it out an inch in
thickness ; turn a basin the shape of the dish in which you
wish to serve the vol-au-vent upside down on the paste,
and with a sharp knife cut around the basin ; remove the
basin, and place another basin of a smaller size and same
shape on the paste ; Now cut around this basin only half-
way through the paste, leaving about an inch and a half
around the edge ; now brush the vol-au-vent all over the
top with a beaten egg, being very careful not to touch the
sides. Put it on a tin or iron sheet, stand again on the ice
until very cold ; then put it into a very hot oven to bake
for thirty-five minutes. Be careful not to scorch, as it
burns quickly. W T hen done, carefully remove the piece
marked out with a sharp knife, lay it aside for the cover.
Scoop out all the unbaked portion from the inside, put the
vol-au-vent back in the oven to dry. When ready to serve,
if filled with the White Fricassee of Chicken, it is then
Vol-au-Vent of Chicken. For Vol-au-Vent of Oysters,
fill with Creamed Oysters ; Lobster, with Creamed Lob-
ster, etc.
PASTRY AND PIES 387
PATE de FOIES GRAS
These are usually made in French pie moulds, holding
about two quarts, requiring a large quantity of materials,
and costing from five to six dollars; but they can be so sim-
plified that any housekeeper can make them for one-half the
above cost, and will be so pleased with results that she will
enter them at once on her weekly bills of fare.
The rule for plain paste
y pound of calf's liver
i slice of bacon or quarter of a pound of ham
YZ pound of veal
i Terrine de Foies Gras aux Truffes du Perigord,
Strasbourg
i^ pint of mushrooms
Salt and pepper
Remove the fat from the top of the foies gras, take them
from the pot and mash, adding about a tablespoonful of the
fat you have taken off. Chop the veal very fine. Scald the
liver, dry it with a towel, and chop it also very fine. Cut
the bacon or ham into dice. Line an ordinary tin one-
quart basin about two inches deep with a sheet of the plain
paste. In the bottom put a layer of veal, next a layer of
fois gras, next a layer of mushrooms, chopped, then a layer
of liver, then a sprinkling of ham, pepper and salt, and so
on until the materials are used. Roll out another piece of
paste for the top cover, make an opening in the centre,
place it over the top, and press the edges of the upper and
the under crust firmly together. With a sharp knife cut a
few leaves from the trimmings of the paste, arrange them
tastefully in the centre of the top crust. Place it in a
quick oven, and bake one hour; as soon as the top crust is
a nice brown, cover it with a sheet of writing-paper to pre-
vent its burning. When done, carefully lift it from the
basin, place it on a folded napkin, and serve.
388 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
OYSTER PATTIES
I batch of puff paste 25 nice fat oysters
i pint of milk or cream i tablespoonful of butter
i tablespoonful of corn-starch Salt and pepper to taste
Roll out the puff paste about an inch thick. Then, with a
round tin cutter, cut out a patty, and lay it on a greased
tin sheet. Brush it lightly over the top with the beaten
yolk of an egg, being careful not to allow any of the yolk
to run down the sides, as it cements the edges together
and prevents it from being light; then take a cutter, two
sizes smaller, and press it in the centre and nearly through
the patty, and so on until you have the whole cut. Now
put them on the ice for a half-hour, or until the oven is
very hot (400 Fahr.). Then bake about twenty minutes,
or until a nice brown. The inside cut acts as a non-con-
ductor, and prevents the heat from reaching the centre,
consequently all the paste inside this ring should be
unbaked. Now remove the lid crust carefully, and save it
for the lid of the patty. Take out this unbaked portion
with a spoon. Put the patties back in the oven for ten
minutes; leave the door open, as they only want a little
drying. Now put the oysters on to boil,, in their own
liquor; as soon as they boil, drain them. Put the milk or
cream on to boil in a farina boiler. Rub the butter and
corn-starch together until smooth, and add to the boiling
milk or cream ; stir until it boils, add salt and pepper, and
last, the oysters; let boil up again, and take from the fire.
TO FILL THE PATTIES
Put two oysters and a little sauce in each one, put on the
lid, and serve.
For what to do with the unbaked paste, see remarks
"What to Save, and How to Use It."
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS
HOT PUDDINGS
AMBER PUDDING
Four eggs, their weight in butter, sugar and rice flour,
juice and rind of one lemon. Beat the butter to a cream,
then add gradually the sugar. Beat the eggs, without sep-
arating, until very light ; then add them gradually to the
other mixture, beating all the while ; then add the flour
and beat until smooth. Butter a plain pudding mould,
with a cover ; pour the pudding into it, stand it in a pot
of boiling water, and boil continuously for two hours.
Serve hot, with Brandy Sauce.
BATTER PUDDING
i quart of milk i teaspoon ful of salt
i cup of flour 6 eggs
Add the salt to the flour and sift it. Beat the eggs,, yolks
and whites together, until creamy : add to the milk. Add
this gradually to the flour, beating all the while. Now
strain through a sieve, to remove any lumps of flour that
may be in it. Pour into a greased pudding mould, put on
the cover, and stand the mould in a pot of boiling water.
Boil continuously for two hours. Do not move the pot, or
jar the stove, or the pudding will fall. If necessary to add
(389)
390 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
more water to the pot while boiling the pudding, be sure
to add boiling water, so as not to check the boiling for a
moment, or this will also make it heavy. When done, lift
the mould gently from the boiling water, remove the cover,
put a round dish on top of the mould ; now turn the mould
upside down, and gently remove it, leaving the pudding
on the dish. Serve with Fairy Butter.
BATTER PUDDING WITH CHERRIES
i pint of milk i tablespoonful of melted butter
3^2 cups of flour 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of
3 eggs baking-powder
y% teaspoonful of salt i pint of stoned cherries
Beat the eggs, whites and yolks together, until light ; then
add the milk, then the flour, and beat until smooth ; then
add the butter melted, salt and baking-powder. Drain
the cherries, dredge them with flour, stir them into the pud-
ding, and turn into a greased pudding mould. Cover,
stand in a pot of boiling water, and boil continuously for
three hours. If the water evaporates in the pot, replenish
with boiling water. Serve with Fairy Butter.
BLACKBERRY PUDDING
Make same as Batter Pudding with Cherries, using a pint
of blackberries instead of a pint of cherries.
Strawberry, huckleberry, and raspberry puddings may
be made in the same way.
BIRD'S-NEST PUDDING (HOT)
Pare and core six tart apples ; then put them in the bottom
of a buttered baking-dish. Mix one pint of thick, sour
cream with two and a half cups of flour, until smooth ; then
add a half-teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a tablespoonful
of boiling water ; mix again, pour over the apples, and
bake in a moderate oven one hour. Serve hot, with Hard
Sauce.
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 391
BABA PUDDING
Y<2, pound of butter 4 eggs
12 ounces of flour ^ cup of raisins
y z yeast cake or a half- ^ pound of mixed candied
cup of yeast French fruit
y<z cup of chopped citron
Add to the yeast, or the half-cake dissolved in a quarter-
clip of lukewarm water, sufficient flour to make a soft dough ;
make this into a biscuit, cut a cross on the top, and put it
into a bowl of lukewarm water; as soon as it floats, take it
out, and it is ready to use this will take about ten min-
utes. Beat the butter to a cream, add to it the eggs well
beaten, and then the flour ; mix well, then add the biscuit,
and knead with the hands until very light. Now raise the
dough and throw it on the board with force ; repeat this
until it leaves your hand without sticking to it. Now add
the raisins and citron, knead until thoroughly mixed, put
into a greased Turk's head, and stand in warm place (72
Fahr.), for two hours and a half, to rise. When light,
put on the ice or in a cold place for twenty minutes. Now
bake in a quick oven for about three-quarters of an hour.
Chop the candied fruit, put it into a saucepan with a half-
cup of sugar and a half-cup of boiling water, let boil five
minutes ; take from the fire, add a teaspoonful of caramel,
and, if you use it, a tablespoonful of brandy. When the
pudding is done, turn it from the mould, fill the hole in
the centre with candied fruit, and serve with Brandy Sauce.
CABINET PUDDING
i quart of broken stale cake 3 eggs
or bread i l / 2 pints of milk
^ teaspoonful of salt i teaspoonful of vanilla
Beat the eggs, whites and yolks together, until light ; add
the milk, and, if you use cake, two tablespoon fuls of sugar;
if bread, a half-cup of sugar. Grease a pudding mould,
392 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
sprinkle the bottom with raisins, then put in a layer of
cake or bread, then a sprinkling of raisins, and so on until
the cake or bread is all used. Add the vanilla and salt to
the milk and egg, pour it into the mould ; it should just
cover the bread or cake. Put on the lid of the mould and
let it stand fifteen minutes ; then place in a pot of boiling
water, and boil continuously for one hour. Turn it care-
fully out of the mould. Serve hot, with Lemon Sauce.
COUSIN CAROLINE'S PUDDING
i cup of molasses i cup of milk
y 2 cup of melted butter y 2 cup of wine
3^ cups of flour i teaspoonful of cinnamon
y? teaspoonful of baking- y 2 teaspoonful of cloves
soda i nutmeg, grated
i pinch of salt
Dissolve the baking-soda in a tablespoonful of boiling water,
then stir it in the molasses ; add the butter melted, then
the milk and flour ; beat all until smooth ; then add the
spice, salt and wine \ pour it into a two-quart mould, well-
greased, or a floured pudding-bag, allowing it plenty of
room to swell, and put into a pot of boiling water to boil
continuously for three hours. Serve hot, with Foamy Sauce.
COTTAGE PUDDING
i tablespoonful of butter 2 eggs
i cup of sugar i large teaspoonful of
y>, cup of milk baking-powder
i^ cups of flour
Beat the butter, sugar and yolks of the eggs together until
light; add the milk and then the flour. Beat well. Now
beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir them
carefully into the pudding ; add the baking-powder, and mix
well ; pour into a greased cake pan and bake in a moderate
oven for three-quarters of an hour. Serve hot, with Lemon
Sauce.
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 393
BAKED INDIAN PUDDING
(Mrs. E. C. Walraven, Philadelphia)
Into a quart of boiling milk stir gradually three gills of
yellow Indian meal, a half-pint of molasses and a teaspoon-
ful of salt. Scald thoroughly and add two tablespoon fuls
of powdered ginger. Into a buttered earthen pan pour a
quart of cold milk, and add a half-pound of chopped beef's
suet ; into this pour the scalded Indian meal, stir well, and
bake in a moderate oven five hours. Serve with Hard
Sauce.
STEAMED INDIAN PUDDING
i^ pound of beef's suet
Small piece of stick cinnamon
Grated rind of one lemon
i pint of Indian meal
i pint of milk
3 eggs
i gill of molasses
Chop the suet very fine and mix it with the Indian meal.
Put the cinnamon in the milk, then put it in a farina boiler
to scald, strain it while hot, and stir in gradually the Indian
meal and suet ; add the molasses, cover the mixture, and
let it stand over night. In the morning beat the eggs, with-
out separating, until very light, stir them into the pudding,
turn into a greased mould or a well-floured pudding-bag,
leaving plenty of room for it to swell. If in a mould, put
on the cover ; if in a bag, secure it well at the tying-plare,
lest the water should get in, which will infallibly spoil it.
Put it into a pot of boiling water, and boil continuously
for five hours. Replenish the water, as it evaporates, with
boiling water. When ready to serve, remove the pudding
carefully from the mould or bag, and serve immediately
with Wine Sauce.
394 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
THE PUDDING OF LONG AGO
4 large tart apples ^ of a nutmeg, grated
4 ounces of stale bread crumbs ^ teaspoonful of salt
i teaspoonful of cinnamon 4 eggs
Pare and chop the apples very fine ; mix them with the
bread crumbs. Beat the eggs separately until very light,
then add the yolks to the crumbs, stir in the whites care-
fully, add the salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg ; mix carefully,
and boil in a greased mould three hours. Serve hot, with
Foamy Sauce. Good.
NEW CENTURY PUDDING
i cup of suet i cup of currants
i cup of sugar 2 eggs
i cup of milk y^, teaspoonful of salt
3 cups of flour i teaspoonful of cinnamon
i cup of raisins i teaspoonful of baking-powder
Shred and chop the suet fine ; stone the raisins ; pick,
wash, and dry the currants. Beat the suet, sugar, and
yolks of the eggs together until light, then add the milk
and flour ; beat until smooth, add the spices, salt, and
whites of the eggs well beaten ; then add the baking-
powder ; mix well, and add the fruit well floured ; turn
into a greased mould, and boil continuously for three
hours. Serve hot, with Wine or Hard Sauce. Good.
FIG PUDDING
Make the same as New Century Pudding, using one pound
of figs cut into small . pieces, instead of the raisins and
currants.
FRENCH FRUIT PUDDING
Make the same as New Century Pudding, using a half-pound
of candied cherries and a half-pound of candied green gages,
instead of the raisins and currants.
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 395
DATE PUDDING
Make the same as New Century Pudding, using one pound
of dates stoned and cut into small pieces, instead of the
raisins and currants.
SARATOGA PUDDING
i cup of molasses 3 cups of flour
i cup of milk i cup of chopped suet
i cup of raisins i teaspoonful of cinnamon
i cup of currants ^ of a nutmeg, grated
i gill of brandy ^ teaspoonful of salt.
Mix the suet and molasses, add the milk, then the flour and
spices ; beat well, then add the fruit well floured, the
brandy, salt, and a teaspoonful of baking-powder ; mix all
well together, and turn into a greased mould or pudding-
bag ; allow plenty of room for swelling, and boil contin-
ually for three hours. Serve hot, with Brandy Sauce.
PEACH PUDDING
6 large peaches
i pint of flour
i egg
y 2 teaspoonful of salt
y cup of milk
Butter the size of an egg
i large teaspoonful of baking-powder
Rub the butter into the flour, then add the salt and baking-
powder. Pare the peaches, cut them in halves, and take
out the stones. Beat the egg until light, add it to the milk,
and pour this into the flour ; give a thorough beating, and
pour into a greased baking-pan. Have the batter about one
inch thick. Put the peaches over this, the stone side up,
fill the hollow places with sugar, and bake in a quick oven
thirty minutes. Serve hot, with sugar and cream.
Apples may be used instead of peaches.
3% PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING
(A Two- Guinea Prize Plum Pudding)
Out of five hundred recipes sent the Queen, the following
was awarded the prize :
i pound of raisins % pound of flour
i pound of suet, chopped fine i pound of currants
24 pound of stale bread crumbs ^ of a nutmeg, grated
% pound of brown sugar 5 eggs
Grated rind of one lemon ^ pint of brandy
y* pound of minced candied orange-peel
Clean, wash, and dry the currants. Stone the raisins.
Mix all the dry ingredients well together. Beat the eggs,
add to them the brandy, then pour them over the dry in-
gredients, and thoroughly mix. Pack into greased small
kettles or moulds (this will make about six pounds), and
boil for six hours at the time of making, and six hours
when wanted for use. Serve with Hard or Brandy Sauce.
PLAIN PLUM PUDDING
(Miss Emily Campbell, Philadelphia)
i pint of stale bread crumbs i teaspoon ful of cinnamon
i cup of flour y<z nutmeg, grated
i cup of stoned rasins ^ cup of molasses
Juice and rind of one lemon 3 eggs
i cup of washed currants ^ pound of suet
i cup of brown sugar y z pound of citron
y 2 teaspoonful of baking-soda
Mix well all the dry ingredients. Beat the eggs, add the
molasses. Dissolve the soda in a tablespoonful of hot water,
add it to the molasses and eggs, then mix into the dry in-
gredients, and pack into a greased mould; boil four hours.
Serve with Hard or Brandy Sauce.
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 397
SWEET POTATO PUDDING
y 2 pound of sweet potatoes J^ pound of sugar
Juice and rind of one lemon 6 ounces of butter
Juice and rind of one orange 8 eggs
^ teaspoon ful of mace ^2 teaspoonful of salt
i even teaspoonful of cinnamon
Pare the potatoes and grate them. Beat the butter and
sugar to a cream. Beat the eggs, whites and yolks to-
gether, until very, very light, then add them to the butter
and sugar ; add the grated potatoes and all the other in-
gredients, beat well, turn into a buttered baking-dish, and
bake in a moderately quick oven three-quarters of an hour.
Serve hot or cold with sauce.
If you use liquor, you may add to the pudding, when
mixing, one gill of sherry and two tablespoon fuls of brandy.
ROLY POLY No. i
, ]/2 pound of flour ^ teaspoonful of salt
5 ounces of suet i pint of fruit jam or jelly
Free the suet from the fibre and skin, and then chop it very
fine, add the flour and salt; mix well, and add gradually
sufficient cold water to make it stick together. Now roll it
out (about one inch in thickness) on a well-floured baking-
board, spread the jam thickly over the paste, roll it up, and
tie in a well-floured cloth, leaving plenty of room for it to
swell. Put it into a pot of boiling water, and boil it two
hours, or it may be steamed two hours and a half. Serve
hot, with Foamy Sauce.
ROLY POLY No. 2
Take about one quart of bread dough that is light enough
to bake, and roll it out about a half-inch in thickness,
spread it all over with fruit, jam or preserves, and finish same
as Roly Poly, No. i.
398 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
SUET PUDDING
i cup of suet i cup of molasses
i cup of raisins i cup of milk
3 cups of flour i teaspoonful of cinnamon
YZ teaspoonful of salt i teaspoonful of baking-powder
Shred and chop the suet fine. Pick and stone the raisins.
Add the molasses to the suet, then the milk; mix well, and
add the salt, flour, and cinnamon ; beat vigorously for two
minutes, then add the raisins, well floured, and the baking-
powder ; mix thoroughly, and turn into a greased mould
or pudding-bag. Boil continually for three hours. Serve
hot, with Wine or Hard Sauce.
TAPIOCA PUDDING
i cup of tapioca i quart of milk
4 eggs i^ teaspoonful of salt
^ cup of sugar i teaspoonful of vanilla
Wash the tapioca through several cold waters, then add it
to the milk and soak two hours. Beat the eggs and sugar
together until light, add the salt, and bake in a moderate
oven three-quarters of an hour. Serve hot or cold.
WAFER PUDDING
^* i pint of milk ^ pint of flour
y? pound of butter Yolks of seven eggs
Whites of four eggs
Put the milk in a farina boiler, when boiling add the but-
ter, stir until dissolved, then quickly throw in the flour,
and stir over the fire for five minutes. Take from the
fire and stand aside to cool. Beat the yolks and whites
together until very, very light, add them to the mixture,
and beat with the hand for ten minutes. Cover, and stand
in a warm place for one hour. Grease gem pans or muffin,
rings, put a tablespoonful of the mixture in each one, and
bake in a quick oven for forty minutes. Serve hot, with
Foamy Sauce.
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 399
COLD PUDDINGS
BIRD'S-NEST PUDDING (COLD)
FOR THE NEST
Make an Orange Jelly (see recipe). Turn a pie dish upside
down in the bottom of a two-quart round tin basin, pour
the jelly in the basin over the pie dish, and stand away to
harden.
FOR THE STRAWS
Cut the orange peel into fine strips with the scissors. Boil
one cup of sugar and a half-cup of water to the crack, that
is, until it hardens when dropped in cold water. Dip the
straws into this syrup and place on greased papers to harden.
FOR THE EGGS
Put one pint of milk on to boil in a farina boiler, moisten
four tablespoonfuls of corn-starch with a little cold milk,
and stir into the boiling milk; stir until it thickens, then
add a quarter-cup of sugar and a teaspoonful of vanilla.
Have ready some egg shells that have been emptied from a
small hole in the top, fill them with this mixture, stand in
a pan of Indian meal or flour to prevent them from falling
over, and put in a cold place to harden.
When the jelly is hard, whip a pint of cream. Now
turn the jelly out on a round glass dish, remove the pie
dish carefully, put the straws around the space left by the
pie dish, representing a nest, and fill the nest, inside the
straws, , with the whipped cream, representing feathers.
Break the shells carefully off the corn-starch eggs, and put
them in the centre of the nest, and it is ready to serve.
Just as troublesome as it reads, but beautiful when
done.
BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING
Cut in thin slices a baker's five -cent loaf. Wash and pick
one cup of currants. Butter each slice of bread. Put a
400 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
layer of this bread in the bottom of a one-quart mould or
basin, then a sprinkling of currants, and so on until all is
used. Beat four eggs and a half-cup of sugar together
until light ; add gradually one pint of milk, and a quarter
of a nutmeg, grated. Pour this over the bread, let stand
fifteen minutes and bake in a moderate oven thirty minutes.
Serve cold, with Cream Sauce.
CREAM CHOCOLATE PUDDING
i pint of milk 4 tablespoonfuls of corn-starch
YZ cup of sugar 2 ounces of chocolate
4 eggs i teaspoon ful of vanilla
Put the chocolate in a saucepan, and stand it over the tea-
kettle to melt; stir until perfectly smooth. Put the milk
on to boil in a farina boiler; moisten the corn-starch with
a little cold water (about a quarter-cup), and add it to the
boiling milk; cook and stir until thick and smooth. Beat
the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth ; add the sugar to the
milk, then the whites, and beat all well together over the
fire. Take from the fire, add the vanilla. Now take out
one-third of the mixture, add to it the chocolate; mix
well. Dip a plain pudding mould into cold water, put in
the bottom of it half the white mixture, then all the dark,
and then the remainder of the white. Stand on the ice
for three hours to harden. Serve with Vanilla Sauce poured
around it.
COCOANUT PUDDING
i cocoanut ^ cup of sugar
i pint of milk i teaspoonful of vanilla
3 eggs
Beat the eggs all together until light, add the milk, sugar,
vanilla, and cocoanut, grated; stir until thoroughly mixed,
and bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. Serve
cold.
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 401
CREAM COCOANUT PUDDING
2 cups of grated cocoanut i pint of milk
4 tablespoonfuls of corn-starch 4 eggs
i teaspoonful of vanilla ^ cup of sugar
Put the milk in a farina boiler ; moisten the corn -starch in a
little cold milk, then add it to the boiling milk ; stir until
smooth. Beat the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth.
Add the sugar to the pudding, then the whites. Beat well
over the fire for three minutes. Now add the cocoanut and
vanilla, and turn into a mould to harden. Serve with
Vanilla Sauce.
CREAM CORN-STARCH PUDDING (VANILLA)
i pint of milk
YZ cup of sugar
i teaspoonful of vanilla
4 even tablespoonfuls of corn-starch
4 eggs
Make the same as Chocolate Pudding, omitting the choco-
late, and adding the vanilla to the whole pudding.
DANDY PUDDING
1 quart of milk
4 eggs
2 tablespoonfuls of corn-starch
y<2, cup of sugar
i teaspoonful of vanilla
Put the milk on to boil. Moisten the corn-starch with a
little cold milk, and add to the boiling milk. Stir and boil
for five minutes. Beat the yolks of the eggs and sugar to-
gether until light, and add to the boiling milk. Take from
the fire, add the flavoring, and pour it into a baking-dish.
Beat the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth, add to
them two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and heap on
the top of the pudding ; put it in the oven for a few min-
utes, until a light brown. Serve ice cold.
402 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
GELATINE PUDDING
*/ box of gelatine i pint of boiling water
i cup of sugar Juice of two lemons
Juice of two oranges
Cover the gelatine with a half-cup of cold water, and let it
soak a half-hour ; then pour over it the boiling water, add
the sugar, lemon, and orange juice, stir until dissolved, and
strain through a flannel bag. Take out a half-cup of this
liquid and add to it a half-teaspoon ful of cochineal jelly
coloring j mix well ; turn it into a pie plate, and stand it
away to harden. Wet a fancy pudding-mould with cold
water, and, if it has a rose or a bunch of grapes in the
bottom of it, take out a little more of the liquid and color
it, and fill that part of the mould, so that when you turn
the pudding out, the rose on top will be pink, and the
pudding its natural color. Stand the mould away until this
hardens, then pick it on the surface with a fork (this makes
the other jelly stick to it, and will not separate when you
turn it out). Now pour in the remainder of the liquid,
which should be cold, but not jellied. Now stand it away
for three or four hours. Put one pint of milk on to boil
in a farina boiler. Beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff
froth, add to them two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar,
and mix very carefully. Now place two or three spoonfuls
on the top of the boiling milk, cover, and let stand one
minute. Remove with a skimmer, and place on a colander
to drain. Now cover the top of the milk again with two
or three spoonfuls, and so on until all the whites are cooked.
Now beat the yolks of the eggs with two tablespoonfuls of
sugar until light, and then stir them into the boiling milk ;
stir and cook one minute. Take from the fire, add one
teaspoonful of vanilla, and turn out to cool. When ready
to serve the pudding, turn it out of the mould on a glass
dish, pour the yellow sauce around it ; stand the cooked
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 403
whites around the base. Cut the colored jelly that you
hardened in the pie dish into squares or fancy shapes,
placing them here and there over the whites as your taste
may direct.
HESTON PUDDING
i pint of boiling water 4 even tablespoon fuls of corn -
3 eggs starch
i teaspoonful of vanilla 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar
^ teaspoonful of salt
Moisten the corn-starch with a little cold water, add it to
the boiling water, sugar, and salt ; stir, and boil ten min-
utes. Take from the fire, add the vanilla and the.well-
beaten whites of the eggs ; mix well, and turn into a mould
to harden. Serve with a Vanilla Sauce made from the yolks
of the eggs.
MARLBOROUGH PUDDING
i pint of stewed apples i teaspoonful of vanilla
y 2 cup of butter 2 cups of sugar
6 eggs i quart of milk
Press the apples through a sieve. Beat the yolks and sugar
together, then add the milk and flavoring. Add the but-
ter to the apples while hot, then mix with the milk and
eggs ; pour into a baking-dish, and bake in a quick oven
thirty-five minutes. Beat the whites of the eggs until
frothy, add six tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and beat
until they will stand alone. Heap them over the top of
the pudding, and put back in the oven a moment to brown.
Serve cold, with sugar and cream.
This will serve eight persons.
NEWPORT PUDDING
Pare and core six medium-sized apples ; steam until tender.
While they are steaming, boil a half-cup of sugar, a quarter-
cup of water, and the juice of one orange together for five
minutes. When the apples are done, place them in the
404 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
bottom of a baking-dish, pour over them the boiling syrup,
and stand aside to cool. Put one pint of milk on to boil.
Beat a half-cup of sugar and the yolks of three eggs to-
gether, and add to the boiling milk. Take from the fire,
add six macaroons pounded fine, and a teaspoonful of vanilla.
Fill the spaces from which the cores were taken with pre-
serves ; pour this custard over the apples, and bake in a
moderate oven fifteen minutes. Beat the whites of the
three eggs with three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar to a
stiff froth, heap them over the top of the pudding, and put
back in the oven a moment to brown. Serve icy cold.
This will fill a two-quart baking-dish.
ORANGE PUDDING
% pound of macaroons y z cupful of sugar
i pint of milk 4 eggs
The rind of one and juice of two oranges.
Put the macaroons in the milk, and soak until soft. Beat
the eggs and sugar together until light (do not separate the
eggs), then add them to the milk and beat the whole until
.smooth ; then add the orange juice and rind. Pour into
a well-buttered pudding-mould (a small tin kettle will
answer), put on the cover, stand the mould in a pot of
boiling water, and boil continuously for one hour. Serve
hot with Orange Sauce.
Lemon pudding may be made the same as Orange
Pudding, using the juice and rind of one lemon. Serve
with Lemon Sauce.
QUAKING PUDDING
1 cup of grated bread crumbs i quart of milk
2 tablespoonfuls of rice flour 4 eggs
2 tablespoonfuls of sugar A grating of nutmeg
Put the bread crumbs into a bowl. Beat the eggs, sugar,
and rice flour together until light, then add them to the
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 405
milk ; then pour this over the crumbs, add the nutmeg, mix
well, and pour into a greased mould or pudding-bag. Put
in a pot of boiling water, and boil continuously one hour.
Serve hot, with Wine or Lemon Sauce.
QUEEN MAB'S PUDDING
^ box of gelatine i pint of milk
i pint of cream 4 eggs
i teaspoonful of vanilla ^3 of a cup of sugar
Cover the gelatine with cold water, and soak a half-hour.
Whip the cream. Put the milk on to boil ; when boiling,
dissolve the gelatine in it, and strain. Beat the yolks and
sugar together, stir into the boiling milk, and cook two
minutes. Take from the fire, add the vanilla, and turn out
into a tin basin to cool. Stand the basin in a pan of
cracked ice, and stir constantly until it begins to thicken ;
then add the whipped cream ; mix thoroughly, turn into a
mould, and set away to harden. Serve with whipped cream
heaped around it.
QUEEN OF ALL PUDDINGS
i pint of bread crumbs i quart of milk
i cup of sugar 4 eggs
i ounce of butter Juice and rind of one lemon
Soak the crumbs in the milk for a half-hour. Beat the
yolks and sugar together until light, then add them to
the crumbs and milk; mix and add the lemon. Pour into
the pudding dish, and bake in a moderate oven a half-hour.
Whip the whites of the eggs until frothy; add to them four
tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and beat until very stiff.
When the pudding is done, put over the top a layer of the
whites, then a layer of fruit jelly, then another layer of
whites, and put back in the oven a moment to brown.
Serve cold, with Cream Sauce.
This will serve eight persons.
406 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
ROYAL DIPLOMATIC PUDDING
i box of gelatine Juice of four oranges
Juice of four lemons i pound of sugar
i pint of cold water i^ pints of boiling water
y^ pound of candied cherries ^ pound of angelica
Half the rule for Orange Cream
Cover the gelatine with the cold water, and let soak one
hour. Then pour on it the boiling water ; add the sugar,
and the juice of the oranges and lemons; stir until the sugar
is dissolved ; strain through a flannel bag, and stand away to
cool, but not harden. Have two plain moulds, one hold-
ing two quarts, and the other holding one quart. While
the jelly is cooling, dip the larger mould into ice water, and
garnish with the cherries and angelica; dip them in a little
of the jelly and that will make them stick to the mould,
and you can then arrange them in any form you choose.
For instance, make a rose of the cherries, and leaves and
stems of the angelica. Then cover with a little of the
liquid gelatine, which must be cold, and stand it in a pan
of cracked ice to harden. When this jelly is perfectly
hard, set the small mould in the centre of the large one,
and fill it with cracked ice ; fill the space between the two
moulds with the remainder of the liquid jelly, and stand
away until perfectly hard; this will take at least five
hours. When hard, remove the ice from the small mould;
dip out with a spoon, the water from the melted ice, and
wipe the inside of the mould with a towel that has been
dipped in warm water. This will loosen the mould, and
you can lift it out carefully, Fill the vacant space with the
orange cream ; stand away in a cold place for three hours.
Serve with a Vanilla Sauce poured around it.
This is a troublesome pudding, but very good and
sightly.
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 407
SNOW PUDDING
YZ box of gelatine Juice of three lemons
2 cups of sugar i quart of milk
4 eggs i teaspoonful of vanilla
i pint of boiling water
Cover the gelatine with cold water, and let it soak a half-
hour. Then pour over it the boiling water, add the sugar,
and stir until it is dissolved ; then add the lemon juice,
and strain the whole into a tin basin ; place this in a pan
of ice-water, and let stand until cold. When cold, beat
with an egg beater, until as white as snow; beat the whites
of the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir them into the pudding.
Dip a fancy mould into cold water; turn the pudding into
it, and stand in a cold place four hours to harden.
THE SAUCE
Put the milk on to boil, beat the yolks of the eggs and a
half-cup of sugar together until light, and stir them into
the boiling milk. Stir and cook two minutes. Take from
the fire, add the vanilla, and turn out to cool. Serve the
pudding with the sauce poured around it.
WIGWAM PUDDING
(Mrs. John W. Pepper, Philadelphia)
^ pound of lady fingers i tumbler of strawberry jelly
i pint of milk 4 eggs
i teaspoonful of vanilla 8 tablespoonfuls of powdered
i gill of sherry sugar
Juice of half a lemon
Split the lady fingers and spread the flat side with jelly;
dip the crust side in the sherry. Line the bottom and sides
of the dish in which you wish to serve it with these lady
fingers, and place the remaining lady fingers, log-cabin
style, in the centre of the dish that is, cross them so
that the custard will pass between. Now put the milk
408 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the yolks of the
eggs and four tablespoonfuls of the sugar together un-
til light, stir into the boiling milk, and stir continually
until it thickens; take from the fire, add the vanilla, and
stand aside to cool. Beat the whites of the eggs, adding
gradually the remaining sugar, to a stiff froth, and then beat
until they will stand alone; add the lemon, and mix thor-
oughly. Pour the custard over the lady fingers ; heap the
meringue over the top, and stand on a board in the oven a
moment to brown. Brown quickly before the dish heats,
or the pudding will curdle.
This will serve six persons.
FROZEN PUDDINGS
ICED CABINET PUDDING
I quart of milk
6 eggs
^ pound of pulverized sugar
*4 box of gelatine
% pound of macaroons and lady fingers mixed
y z pound of candied cherries or preserved fruit
J< pound of stale sponge cake
Cut the sponge cake into small pieces. Pound the maca-
roons and lady fingers and rub them through a coarse sieve.
Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the eggs
until creamy, then add the sugar; beat until smooth, and
stir into the boiling milk ; stir until it coats a knife -blade ;
take from the fire, and add the gelatine, which has been
covered with cold water, and soak a half-hour; then strain
and stand aside to cool. Garnish the bottom of a melon
or brick mould with the candied cherries or preserves ;
then put in a layer of the broken sponge cake, then a
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 409
sprinkling of the pounded macaroons and lady ringers,
then another layer of cherries, then a layer of broken
sponge cake, and so on until all is used. Add a table-
spoonful of vanilla to the custard ; pour it into the mould
and cover the mould tightly with the lid. Dip a piece of
muslin two inches wide, and long enough to go around the
mould, into melted butter ; bind it over the joint where
the lid and mould come together ; pack in ice and salt,
and freeze three hours. When ready to serve, dip the
mould quickly into hot water, and turn the pudding on a
cold dish. Serve with Montrose Sauce.
This will serve ten persons.
MONTROSE PUDDING
i quart of good cream Yolks of six eggs
i cup of granulated sugar i tablespoonful of vanilla
i pint of strawberry water-ice
Put one pint of cream on to boil in farina boiler. Beat
the yolks and sugar together until light, stir them into the
boiling cream, and cook and stir until it thickens (about
one minute). Take from the fire, add the remaining pint
of cream, and the vanilla, let stand until cool, and freeze.
When frozen, pack into a round mould, or bomb, leaving
a well in the centre. Fill this well with the strawberry
water-ice, cover it over with some of the pudding you
have taken out. Pack in salt and ice, and let stand until
wanted (not less that two hours). Serve with the follow-
ing sauce poured around it.
THE SAUCE
i heaping tablespoonful i pint of cream
of gelatine Yolks of three eggs
% cup of pulverized sugar i teaspoonful of vanilla
Cover the gelatine with a little cold water, and soak a half-
hour. Put the cream on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat
410 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
the eggs and sugar together until light, add to the boiling
cream, stir until it thickens (about one minute), add the
gelatine, stir until dissolved; take from the fire, add the
vanilla, and (if you use it) two tablespoon fuls of brandy
and four of sherry. Stand it away in a cold place until
wanted.
If you have no round mould, use the freezer to mould it.
This quantity will serve twelve persons.
NESSELRODE PUDDING
i pint of chestnuts i pint of almonds
i pint of sugar i pint of cream
i pint of boiling water i pineapple or one pint of
i pound of French can- canned
died fruit (mixed) Yolks of six eggs
Shell the chestnuts, take off the brown skin, put them in a
saucepan, cover with boiling water, and boil twenty min-
utes, then press them through a colander. Shell, blanch
and pound the almonds. Cut the fruit into small pieces.
Put the water and sugar on to boil; let it boil fifteen min-
utes. Beat the yolks of the eggs until very light; add
them to the boiling syrup; stir over the fire until it boils,
then take it off, and beat with a wire spoon until cold.
Now add the fruit, cream, almonds, chestnuts, and a table-
spoonful of vanilla, and (if you use wine) four tablespoon-
fuls of sherry. Mix all well together, turn into the freezer,
and freeze. After it is frozen, drain off the water, add
more salt and ice, cover the freezer with a piece of carpet,
and stand away for four or five hours to ripen.
This will serve fifteen persons.
MY QUEEN PUDDING
Pack a two-quart bombe-glace mould in salt and ice.
Remove the cover, being careful not to drop any salt in-
side the mould. Now line the mould with strawberry or
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 411
pomegranate water-ice, fill the centre with French bombe
mixture, press the lid down tightly, cover with salt and ice,
and stand away two hours or more to freeze. When ready
to serve, wash the outside of the mould in cold water, turn
the pudding out carefully in the centre of a large round
dish, heap around it sweetened whipped cream. Place
here and there over the cream candied cherries and mar-
rons glaces.
ICED RICE PUDDING WITH A COMPOTE OF
ORANGES
FOR THE PUDDING
^ cup of rice i pint of milk
1 quart of cream i^ cups of sugar
Yolks of six eggs i tablespoonful of vanilla
2 quarts of rock salt 10 pounds of ice
Rub the rice well in a clean towel, put it on to boil in one
pint of cold water, boil a half-hour; drain, cover with the
milk, and boil a half-hour longer. While this is boiling,
whip the quart of cream. After you have whipped all you
can, acid the remainder, and what has drained from the
other, to the rice and milk. Stand the whipped cream in
a cold place until wanted. Now press the rice through a
wire sieve, and return it to the farina boiler, in which it
was boiled. Beat the yolks and sugar together until light,
then pour over the boiling rice, stir well, return again to
the fire and cook two minutes, or until it begins to thicken.
Take from the fire, add the vanilla, and turn out to cool.
When cool, put into the freezer and freeze (see directions
for freezing). When frozen, stir in the whipped cream,
remove the dasher and smooth down, and let stand for
hours, packed in salt and ice.
FOR THE COMPOTE
i dozen sweet oranges i pound of sugar
Juice of quarter of a lemon i gill of water
412 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Put the sugar and water on to boil ; boil ten minutes, skim,
and add the lemon juice. Peel the oranges, cut them in
halves crosswise; cut out the cores with a sharp knife; put
a few pieces at a time in the hot syrup, and lay them out
singly on a flat dish ; pour over them the remaining syrup
and stand on the ice to cool.
To dish the pudding, lift the can out of the ice and
wipe it off so that the salt will not get into the pudding ;
then wipe the bottom with a towel dipped in boiling water,
put a round dish over the top of it, turn it upside down
and remove the can ; if it should stick, wipe again with
the hot towel. Heap the oranges on top and around the
base of the pudding, and pour the syrup over them. Serve
immediately. This is worth the trouble; besides being
good, it is a very handsome dish.
DESSERTS
BLANC MANGE
I quart of milk 8 even tablespoonfuls of
y^ cup of sugar corn -starch
i^ teaspoonful of salt
Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Moisten the
corn-starch with a little cold milk, then add it to the boil-
ing milk, and stir until it thickens ; add the sugar and salt,
take from the fire, pour into custard cups, and set away to
harden. Serve with Cream Sauce.
This will serve five or six persons.
FRUIT BLANC MANGE
One quart of stewed or one can of fruit, (cherries, rasp-
berries, and strawberries are best). Strain off all the
juice, sweeten it to taste, and put it on to boil. Moisten
three even tablespoonfuls of corn-starch with a little cold
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 413
water, and stir it into the boiling juice. Boil and continue
stirring five minutes, then add the fruit, pour it into a
mould that has been wet with ice-water, and stand away to
cool. Serve cold, with sugar and cream.
This will fill a one-quart mould.
CREAM CAKE PIE
Make a plain cup cake, and bake it in an oval tin basin.
When done and cold, split it into three layers. Put one
quart of milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the yolks
of six eggs and a half-cup of sugar together until light,
then add the well-beaten whites, and stir them into the
boiling milk; stir over the fire for about one minute, then
take from the fire, add one teaspoonful of vanilla, and stand
away to cool. When cold, and ready to serve, put a layer
of this sauce between the layers of cake, pour the remaining
sauce around in the bottom of the dish, and serve imme-
diately.
ORANGE CAKES WITH VANILLA SAUCE
Take small, stale sponge cakes (lady fingers), dip them in
orange juice, place them in a glass dish, and pour over
them Vanilla Sauce. Serve at once.
If you use wine, you may dip them in sherry.
STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE
i quart of flour 2 ounces of butter
1 teaspoonful of salt i quart of cream
2 quart-boxes of strawberries 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-
Sugar and milk powder
Stem the berries, sweeten to taste, and slightly mash them
with a wooden spoon. Rub the butter into the flour, then
add the salt, baking-powder, and sufficient milk to make a
soft dough ; mix quickly, roll out about one and one-half
inches in thickness, put into a greased, large, square baking-
pan, and bake in a very quick oven for twenty minutes.
414 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
When done, take from the oven, split in halves and spread
each half lightly with butter. Place the lower half in a
large meat plate ; put half the berries on this, then cover
with the other half of the shortcake ; cover this with the
remaining half of the berries, pour the cream around, and
serve immediately.
This will serve eight persons.
APPLE CHARLOTTE
6 large apples i pint of cream
y 2 box of gelatine Sugar to taste
Pare and steam the apples until tender, then press them
through a colander and add the sugar. Cover the gelatine
with cold water and soak a half-hour, then add it to the
hot apples ; stir until dissolved. Now pour this into a tin
basin, stand the basin in a pan of ice- water, and stir con-
tinually until the mixture begins to thicken ; then add
quickly and carefully the cream, whipped. Turn in a fancy
pudding-mould, and stand in a cold place to harden.
This will serve eight persons.
CHARLOTTE RUSSE
i quart of good cream ^ pound of lady fingers
Y^ cup of powdered sugar ^ box of gelatine
i teaspoonful of vanilla j gill sherry (if you use wine)
Cover the gelatine with cold water, and let it soak for a
half-hour. Whip the cream and lay it on a sieve to drain.
Line two plain two-quart moulds with the lady fingers.
Now turn the cream into a large basin and place it in a pan
of cracked ice ; add to the soaked gelatine just enough
boiling water to dissolve it. Now add the sugar carefully
to the cream, then the vanilla and wine, and last, strain in
the gelatine. Commence to stir immediately ; stir from
the sides and bottom of the basin until it begins to thicken,
then pour into the moulds and set away on the ice to harden.
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 415
PARISIAN CHARLOTTE
i^ box of gelatine i quart of cream
i cup of grated cocoanut ^ pound of stale lady fingers
j^ pound of macaroons 4 eggs
2 tablespoon fuls of sugar
Cover the gelatine with cold water and let it soak a half-
hour. Whip one-half the cream, and stand it away until
wanted. Put the remaining half to boil in a farina boiler.
Beat the eggs and sugar together until light (do not separate
the eggs), stir into the boiling milk, and stir one minute
until it thickens ; add the gelatine, take from the fire, add
a teaspoonful of vanilla and the lady fingers, macaroons
and cocoanut, and turn into a basin. Now place the basin
in a pan of cracked ice, and stir continually until it just
begins to thicken ; then add the whipped cream, and stir
very carefully until thoroughly mixed. Wet a fancy mould
with cold water, turn in the mixture and stand on the ice
to harden.
Or, cut the centre out of a one-pound, stale sponge
cake, leaving a bottom and sides about a half-inch thick,
and pour the mixture into this instead of the mould. Serve
with Montrose Sauce.
APRICOT BAVARIAN CREAM
i pint-can or one pint fresh ^ box of gelatine
apricots ^ pint of cold water
i pint of cream
Cover the gelatine with the water and let soak a half-hour.
Press the apricots through a colander ; if fresh, first stew
and sweeten them. Stir the gelatine over boiling water
until dissolved. Whip the cream. Add the gelatine to
the apricots, mix, and turn into a tin basin ; stand the
basin in a pan of cracked ice or snow, and stir constantly
until it begins to thicken ; then add the whipped cream,
416 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
stir carefully until thoroughly mixed ; turn into a mould
and stand aside to harden. Serve with whipped cream
heaped around the base.
COFFEE BAVARIAN CREAM
y? box gelatine i teaspoonful of vanilla
YZ pint of milk i cup of sugar
i pint of cream i cup strong boiling coffee
Cover the gelatine with cold water and let it soak for
a half-hour; then pour over it the boiling coffee;
add the sugar, and stir until it is dissolved ; then strain
into a tin basin ; let stand until cool. While it is cooling,
whip the cream. When cool, add first the milk, and then
the whipped cream ; stir carefully until thoroughly mixed,
turn into a mould, and set away to harden.
Caramel Bavarian Cream may be made as above, using
one pint of milk, two tablespoon fuls of caramel, and a gill
of sherry instead of the coffee.
CHOCOLATE BAVARIAN CREAM
i pint of milk ^ box of gelatine
i pint of cream 2 ounces of chocolate
Y?, cup of sugar i teaspoonful of vanilla
y^ cup of water
Cover the gelatine with the water, and let soak a half-hour.
Whip the cream, grate the chocolate, put the milk on to
boil; when boiling, add the chocolate and gelatine, stir
until dissolved. Take from the fire, add the sugar and
vanilla, then turn into a tin basin to cool ; stir continually
until it begins to thicken, then add the whipped cream ;
stir carefully until thoroughly mixed, then turn into a
mould to harden. Serve with whipped cream around the
base.
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 417
PEACH BAVARIAN CREAM
Peach Bavarian Cream is made precisely the same as Apri-
cot Bavarian Cream, using one pint can or nine fresh
peaches.
PINEAPPLE BAVARIAN CREAM
i pint of grated pineapple y z box of gelatine
YZ pint of sugar i pint of cream
YZ cup of cold water
Cover the gelatine with the cold water, and let soak a half-
hour. Put the pineapple and sugar in a porcelain -lined
kettle, and let it simmer slowly while the gelatine is soak-
ing. Then add the gelatine to the pineapple, and stir until
dissolved. Turn into a tin basin, and finish the same as
Apricot Bavarian Cream.
One pint of canned pineapple may be used in place of
the fresh, omitting the sugar.
PLUM BAVARIAN CREAM
Make precisely the same as Apricot Bavarian Cream, using
one pint of preserved or canned plums instead of the
apricots.
RASPBERRY BAVARIAN CREAM
YI box of gelatine i pint of raspberry juice
YI cup of sugar i pint of cream '
YZ cup of water.
Cover the gelatine with the water, and soak a half-hour ;
then stand it over boiling water until thoroughly dissolved,
add to it the sugar and raspberry juice, and strain into a
tin basin. Place the basin in a pan of ice or snow, and stir
continually until it thickens, then add the cream whipped ;
stir carefully until thoroughly mixed. Pour into a mould,
and stand in a cold place to harden.
418 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
STRAWBERRY BAVARIAN CREAM
i quart of strawberries ^ box of gelatine
i cup of sugar i pint of cream
YZ cup of cold water
Cover the gelatine with the water, and soak a half-hour.
Mash the berries and press them through a sieve fine enough
to remove the seeds ; add the sugar, and stir until dis-
solved. Stand the gelatine over boiling water j and, when
melted, strain it into the strawberry juice ; mix, turn into
a tin basin, and finish the same as Raspberry Bavarian
Cream.
AMERICAN CREAM
Y?, box of gelatine i cup of sugar
\y 2 pints of milk Juice and rind of one lemon
Cover the gelatine with a half-cup of cold water, and soak
a half-hour. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler, add
the gelatine to it, stir until dissolved, strain, take from the
fire, and stand aside until cool. When cold, add the
sugar and lemon, stir well, turn into a mould, and stand
away to harden. Serve with Cream or Vanilla Sauce.
This will serve eight persons.
FRIED CREAM
i pint of milk i tablespoonful of corn-starch
Yolks of three eggs ^ cup of sugar
^ of *a nutmeg, grated i teaspoonful of vanilla
4 tablespoonfuls of flour
Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler, moisten the flour
and corn-starch in a little cold milk, then add it to the
boiling milk. Stir, and boil five minutes. Now add the
sugar, nutmeg, and the yolks of three eggs well beaten.
Let cook one minute ; take from fire and add flavoring.
Turn into a square mould, and stand in a cold place for
four or five hours. Then sprinkle some bread crumbs on a
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 419
baking-board, turn the cream out on them, and cut it into
squares. Dip them first in beaten egg, then in crumbs, and
fry in boiling fat. Serve with powdered sugar sifted over.
HAMBURG CREAM
(Mrs. John W. Pepper, Philadelphia)
5 eggs 2 lemons
y> pound of sifted sugar
Beat the yolks with the juice and grated rind of the lemons,
also the sugar ; put it on the fire, and let it come to a boil.
Then add hastily the whites of the eggs beaten stiff. Stir
all well together ; take immediately off the fire and put in
glasses. In making this, always use a farina boiler.
This recipe will fill eight glasses.
ITALIAN CREAM
i quart of milk 4 eggs
y& box of gelatine i teaspoonful of vanilla
y& cup of sugar ^ cup of cold water
Cover the gelatine with the cold water, and soak a half-
hour. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the
yolks of the eggs and sugar together until light, then stir
them into the boiling milk ; stir over the fire a half-minute ;
take from the fire, add the gelatine and vanilla, and stand
aside to cool. When slightly cool, not stiff, add the whites
of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, turn into a mould, and
stand away in a cool place to harden.
This is sufficient to fill a mould holding one and a half
quarts, and will serve nine people.
ORANGE CREAM
Y-2, box of gelatine i pint of cream
i cup of sugar i pint of milk
5 oranges Yolks of five eggs
Cover the gelatine with cold water, and let it soak for a
420 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
half-hour. Whip the cream. Put the milk on to boil; as
soon as it boils, dissolve the gelatine in it. Beat the yolks
and sugar together until light, and strain the milk and
gelatine into them. Wash the boiler and return the mix-
ture to it ; stir it over the fire for two minutes and then
turn it out to cool. When cold, add the juice of the
oranges strained through a sieve. Now place the basin in
a pan of cracked ice, and stir continually until it just
begins to thicken, then add the whipped cream and stir
very carefully until thoroughly mixed. Wet a fancy mould
with cold water, turn in the mixture, and stand on the ice
to harden. Serve plain or with whipped cream heaped
around it. This is delicious.
SNOW CREAM
Beat the whites of four eggs until foamy, then add grad-
ually four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, beating all the
while, then beat until stiff enough to stand alone ; add one
tablespoonful of sherry and a teaspoonful of vanilla; stir
in carefully one pint of cream, whipped. Serve in small
glasses.
This will serve eight persons.
VELVET CREAM
Make the same as Charlotte Russe, turn into a fancy mould
that has been dipped in cold water, and stand in a cold
place to harden.
This will serve twelve persons.
TAPIOCA CREAM
i quart of milk *^ cup of sugar
i cup of tapioca 4 eggs
i teaspoonful of vanilla
Soak the tapioca, in cold water enough to cover, over night.
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 421
In the morning, put the milk and tapioca in a farina boiler
and boil until the tapioca is clear, stirring all the time.
Beat the yolks and sugar together until light ; then beat the
whites to a stiff froth, stir them carefully into the yolks and
sugar, and then add them to the tapioca, and stir and boil
about one minute. Take from the fire, add the vanilla,
and turn out in a glass dish to cool.
This will serve six persons.
CROQUANTE OF PEACHES
1 8 nice ripe peaches
i pound of sugar
i pint of small strawberries
y? pint of water
The recipe for Charlotte Russe
Boil the sugar and water together until it is brittle when
dropped in cold water ; that is, when it begins to boil up
in large bubbles, take a tittle of it on a spoon and drop it
into cold water; if it snaps in breaking, it is sufficiently
boiled. Take it from the fire immediately. Rub a plain
two-quart mould with melted butter or oil. Have ready
the peaches pared, cut into halves and stoned, the straw-
berries stemmed. Put a piece of peach on a wooden
skewer, dip it in the syrup, then dip a berry in the syrup,
and place in the centre of the peach where the stone was
taken out, then press it against the side of the mould, and
so continue until the mould is lined, then stand away in a
cold place to harden. When hard, fill with Charlotte Russe,
and stand in a cold place for an hour or two. When ready
to serve, put a plate over the mould, turn it upside down,
wipe the outside of the mould with a warm cloth, then
carefully lift it off. This dish is both beautiful and good.
This will serve eight persons.
422 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
CROQUANTE OF ORANGES
12 sweet oranges i pound of sugar
YZ pint of water Charlotte Russe
Peel and carefully remove all the white pith from the
oranges, then divide them into their small sections with
the fingers, being careful not to break the skin. Make the
syrup, dip the sections into it, line the mould and finish
according to the recipe given for Croquante of Peaches.
CROQUANTE OF STRAWBERRIES
i quart of strawberries
i tablespoon ful of gelatine
Charlotte Russe
Cover the gelatine with cold water and let it soak a half-
hour, then add to it two tablespoonfuls of boiling water
and stir until dissolved. Dip a plain two-quart mould in
cold water, then stand it in a pan of ice-water. Stem the
berries, and dip each one in the gelatine, then press them
against the inside of the mould ; in this way they will
stick, allowing you to arrange them in any fancy design
you may choose. A wreath around the side of the mould
and a rose in the bottom made from the berries is very
pretty. Angelica may be used for the leaves and stems, or
you may line the mould perfectly solid with the berries.
Now fill with Charlotte Russe and stand away to harden.
This will serve eight persons.
Croquante of Raspberries may be made in the same
.way.
BAKED CUSTARD
Make the same as Cup Custard ; pour into a baking-dish
and bake in a quick oven until firm in the centre. Serve
very cold.
PUDDINGS AND U ESSEX TS 423
CORN-STARCH CUSTARD
i quart of milk * cup of sugar
4 eggs i teaspoonful of vanilla
4 tablespoon fuls of corn -starch
Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the yolks
of the eggs and the sugar together until very light. Beat
the whites to a stiff froth, then stir them carefully into the
yolks and sugar. Moisten the corn-starch with a little
cold milk, then stir it into the boiling milk ; stir and cook
until it begins to thicken, then add the eggs and sugar ;
stir and cook one minute longer, take from the fire, add
the vanilla and turn into a glass dish. Serve icy cold.
This will serve eight persons.
CUP CUSTARDS
i quart of milk 4 eggs
y 2 cup of sugar ^ of a nutmeg, grated
Beat the eggs all together until light, then add the sugar,
beat again, add the milk and nutmeg, stir until the sugar is
dissolved. Pour into custard cups. Stand the cups in a
pan of boiling water and then put the pan in the oven.
Bake until the custards are set; that is, firm in the centre.
When done, take them out of the water and stand away to
cool. Serve in the cups.
FRENCH CUSTARD
i quart of milk 8 eggs
^3 cup of sugar i teaspoonful of vanilla
6 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar
Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the sugar
and yolks of the eggs together until light, then stir them
into the boiling milk. Stir over the fire until it begins to
thicken, then take it from the fire, add the vanilla and
stand aside to cool. As soon as cool, pour into a glass
424 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
dish. Beat the whites until frothy, add gradually the fine
sugar, and beat until they will stand alone. Heap them on
a dinner-plate, and stand in the oven a moment to brown.
As soon as they are brown, loosen them from the plate and
slide off gently on top of the custard. Serve very cold,
with sponge cake.
This will serve ten persons.
QUAKING CUSTARD
Y^ box of gelatine i^ pints of milk
5 eggs ^ cup of sugar
i teaspoonful of vanilla ^ cup of powdered sugar
Cover the gelatine with cold water and soak a half-hour.
Put the milk on to boil. Beat the yolks of the eggs and
the half-cup of sugar together until light, then stir into the
boiling milk; add the gelatine, and stir over the fire for a
minute to thicken. Take from the fire, add the vanilla,
pour in a mould, and stand away to harden. When ready
to serve, beat the whites to a foam, then add gradually the
powdered sugar, beating all the while. After all the sugar
is added, beat until it will stand alone. Turn the pudding
carefully from the mould, heap the whites around it, and
serve.
This will serve eight persons.
RICE CUSTARDS
i quart of milk ^ cup of sugar
6 tablespoonfuls of rice 4 eggs
flour i teaspoonful of vanilla
Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Moisten the
rice flour with a little cold milk. Beat the eggs and sugar
together until very light. Now add the rice flour to the
boiling milk, stir and cook for five minutes; then add the
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 425
eggs and sugar, and cook one minute longer. Take from
the fire, add the vanilla, turn into cups, and stand away in
a cold place to cool. Serve cold, with Cream Sauce.
This will fill eight cups.
FARINA CUSTARDS
Make precisely the same as Rice Custards.
CUSTARD SOUFFLE (Parloa)
2 tablespoonfuls "of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of flour
2 tablespoonfuls of sugar
i cup of milk
4 eggs
Put the milk on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together,
add to the boiling milk, stir over the fire for ten minutes.
Beat the yolks and sugar together, add them to the milk,
and turn the mixture out to cool. When cold, beat the
whites to a stiff froth, and add them to the mixture, turn
into a greased baking-dish and bake in a quick oven (400
Fahr.) for twenty minutes. Serve immediately, with
Creamy Sauce.
TAPIOCA CUSTARD
Y? cup of tapioca 4 eggs
Y<2. cup of sugar i tumbler of currant or
i pint of water strawberry jelly
Wash the tapioca through several waters, add it to the pint
of water and soak two hours, then add to it the jelly and
sugar, and cook slowly until the tapioca is clear. Beat the
whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, stir them into the tapioca,
then turn into a mould, and stand away to harden. Serve
cold, with Vanilla Sauce made from the yolks of the eggs.
This is sufficient for six persons.
426 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
APPLE DUMPLINGS No. i
1 quart of flour i large tablespoon ful of
2 heaping teaspoonfuls butter or lard
of baking-powder i teaspoonful of salt
YZ pint of milk
Pare the apples and take out the cores with a corer. Put
the pot over the fire with just enough water to half cover
the dumplings ; or, if you are going to steam them, which
is much the better way, have steamer over the pot, which
should be half-full of boiling water. Now put the flour
into a bowl, and rub into it the butter or lard, then add
the salt and baking-powder, mix well, and moisten with
the milk, using more or less, as the flour requires to make
a soft dough ; that is, a dough that will roll out nicely with-
out being sticky. Take the dough out on a baking board,
roll it out about a half-inch in thickness ; now cut out the
dumplings or the covering for the apples with a large round
cutter, about the size of a common saucer ; put one apple
in the centre of each piece, fill the space from which the
core was taken with sugar, and a little cinnamon if you
like, and carefully work the dough over the apple. If you
boil them, tie each one in a floured cloth, or put them into
netted dumpling-bags, plunge them immediately into the
boiling water, and boil thirty minutes. If you steam, place
them on a- dinner-plate a little smaller than the steamer,
stand the plate in the steamer and steam forty minutes.
Serve on the plate on which they were steamed. Serve hot,
with Hard Sauce or sweetened cream.
APPLE DUMPLINGS No. 2
10 good-sized potatoes ^ cup of milk
YZ teaspoonful of salt i tablespoonful of butter
Pare and boil the potatoes; when done, drain off every
drop of water, and stand them on the back part of the
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 427
fire to dry, then mash and beat them until light ; add the
salt, butter, and milk, and beat again ; add gradually suffi-
cient flour to make a dough that will roll out without sticking
to the board. Now take the dough and knead it lightly,
roll out about a half-inch in thickness, and finish same as
Apple Dumplings, No. i. These dumplings must be served
as soon as done. They can wait, after they are ready to
cook, for a halPhour or more, then put them on to cook
just forty minutes before you are ready to serve them.
These dumplings are delicious baked and served with
Vanilla Sauce.
PEACH DUMPLINGS
Peach dumplings may be made the same as Apple Dump-
lings, No. i, using one dozen peaches instead of the apples.
Pare the peaches, but do not take out the stones.
RICE DUMPLINGS
1 pound of rice
j dozen tart apples
2 quarts of water
Sugar and cinnamon
Wash the rice through several cold waters, then boil gently
in the water for thirty minutes; drain in a colander. Pare
the apples and take out the cores. Fill the spaces from
which the cores were taken with sugar and cinnamon. Then
cover the apples all over with a thick coating of the boiled
rice. Tie each dumpling tightly in a dumpling cloth, and
put them in a pot of cold water. Bring the water quickly
to a boil, and boil forty minutes. When done, untie the
cloth, turn the dumplings out carefully on a large plate.
Serve with Hard or Cream Sauce.
428 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
APPLE SPONGE
YZ box of gelatine i pound of sugar
i pound of apples Grated rind of one and
3 eggs juice of two lemons
y, pint of boiling water
Boil the sugar and water until clear, take the scum from
the surface. Pare the apples, core and slice them into this
syrup. Stew until tender. Cover the gejatine with cold
water and let it soak while the apples are stewing; add the
gelatine to the apples when they are done, then press the
whole through a sieve, add the rind and juice of the lemons,
and stir until cold and slightly thickened. Beat the whites
of the eggs to a stiff froth, stir them into the apples and
beat until cold and thick, then pour into a mould to
harden. Make a Vanilla Sauce from the yolks of the eggs
(see recipe). Serve the sponge in a dessert-dish, with the
sauce poured around it.
Peach Sponge may be made the same way, using one
pound of peaches instead of a pound of apples.
BLACKBERRY SPONGE
YZ box of gelatine */ pint of blackberry juice
y 2 cup of sugar 4 eggs
i pint of boiling water
Cover the gelatine with a half-cup of cold water and soak
for a half-hour ; then pour over it the boiling water, add
the sugar, and stir until dissolved; add the blackberry
juice, and strain into a tin basin ; put this basin in a pan of
cracked ice or snow to stand until cold and thick, stirring
occasionally. Then beat to a stiff froth, add the well-
beaten whites of the eggs, and beat until smooth; turn
into a fancy pudding-mould to harden. Serve with Vanilla
Sauce poured around it.
The Dover egg-beater is the best for beating these des-
serts.
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 429
CURRANT SPONGE
Make the same as Blackberry Sponge, using a half-pint of
currant juice, a half-pint of sugar, a half-pint of boiling
water, a half-box of gelatine, and four eggs.
LEMON SPONGE
Proceed in every respect as for Blackberry Sponge, substi-
tuting the juice of three lemons for the blackberry juice,
and adding two cups of sugar.
ORANGE SPONGE
This is made the same as Blackberry Sponge, using the
juice of five large oranges, one cup of sugar, one pint of
boiling water, a half-box of gelatine, and four eggs.
RASPBERRY SPONGE
The same as Blackberry Sponge, using one pint of raspberry
juice.
STRAWBERRY SPONGE
Make same as Blackberry Sponge, using one pint of straw-
berry juice, one cup of sugar, a half-box of gelatine, a half-
pint of boiling water, and four eggs.
APPLE TAPIOCA
Pick and wash one cup of tapioca, cover with cold water,
and soak a half-hour ; then put it in a farina boiler, add
one quart of boiling water, and boil until transparent. Pare
and core enough apples to cover the bottom of a baking-
dish ; fill the spaces from which the cores were taken with
sugar, pour the tapioca over, and bake in a moderate oven
for thirty minutes. Serve cold, with sweetened cream.
430 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
APPLE SAGO
Make the same as Apple Tapioca, using sago instead of
tapioca.
CHERRY TAPIOCA
i y<2, pounds of sour cherries i cup of tapioca
Sugar to taste
Wash the tapioca through several waters, then cover with
cold water, and soak over night. In the morning, put it
on the fire with one pint of boiling water, simmer slowly
until the tapioca is perfectly clear. Stone the cherries, stir
them into the boiling tapioca, sweeten to taste. Take from
the fire, turn into the dish in which they are to be served,
and stand away to cool. Serve very cold, with sugar and
cream.
This will serve eight persons.
ORANGE TAPIOCA
i cup of tapioca i dozen sour oranges
Sugar to taste
Make and serve the same as Cherry Tapioca.
PEACH TAPIOCA
i cup of tapioca
i quart-can or a quarter-peck of stewed peaches
Sugar to taste
Make and serve the same as Cherry Tapioca.
RASPBERRY TAPIOCA
i cup of tapioca
i quart of raspberries
Sugar to taste
Make and serve the same as Cherry Tapioca
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 481
STRAWBERRY TAPIOCA
i cup of tapioca
i quart of strawberries
Sugar to taste
Make and serve the same as Cherry Tapioca
ANGELS' SNOW
i dozen sweet oranges
i cup of sugar
i cocoanut
Pare and grate the cocoanut. Peel and cut the oranges in
small pieces, taking out all the seeds. Put a layer of the
oranges in the bottom of a pretty glass dish, sprinkle with
sugar, then a layer of cocoanut, then another layer of
oranges, sugar, and so on, until the dish is full, having the
last layer cocoanut. Let stand one hour, and it is ready to
serve.
APPLE DOWDY
Butter a baking-dish and line the bottom and sides of it
with buttered slices of bread. Fill the dish with sliced
apples, grate over them a little nutmeg. Mix a half-cup
of water and a half-cup of molasses together, and pour
over the apples ; sprinkle over this a half-cup of brown
sugar, cover with more buttered bread. Cover the top of
the baking-dish with a tin plate, and* bake in a moderate
oveti for two hours. When done, loosen the edges with a
knife, and turn out on a dish. Serve hot, with sugar and
cream.
APPLE MERINGUE
Cover the bottom of a baking-dish with pieces of stale
cake dipped in. milk. Pare, core and slice four tart apples,
spread them over the cake, sprinkle with four heaping
tablespoon fuls of sugar, grate over a little nutmeg, and
432 ^ PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
bake in a moderate oven until the apples are tender. Then
make a meringue from the whites of three eggs and three
tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar beaten to a stiff froth,
heap them over the top, and put back in the oven to brown
the meringue. Serve cold, with sweetened cream.
APPLE SLUMP
i tablespoonful of butter
y 2 pint of milk or water
1 quart of flour
6 large tart apples
2 heaping teaspoonfuls of
baking-powder
Sift the flour, add one teaspoonful of salt, and rub into it
the butter; add the baking-powder and then the milk
more or less as the flour requires. The dough must be a
little soft. Have the apples pared, quartered and cored ;
put them with one pint of water into a baking-dish, roll
out the dough about one inch in thickness, cover it over the
apples, cover the dish, and stew slowly in the oven for thirty
minutes. When done, dust thickly with powdered sugar,
and serve in the dish in which it was baked, with Hard
Sauce in a separate dish.
APPLE SNOW
6 good-sized apples
i cup of sugar
Juice of one lemon
Whites of six eggs
Pare, core and steam the apples until tender, then press
them through a sieve and put aside to cool ; when cold,
add the sugar and lemon juice. Beat the whites of the
eggs to a very stiff froth, and add the apples to them by
large spoonfuls, beating all the while. Serve immediately,
in glasses.
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 433
BROWN BETTY
Pare, core and slice six or seven tart apples. Put a layer
of stale bread crumbs in the bottom of a baking-dish, then
a layer of the apples, then another layer of bread crumbs,
and another layer of apples, and so on until all is used,
having the last layer crumbs. Add a half-cup of water to
a half-cup of molasses, stir in two tablespoon fuls of brown
sugar ; pour it over the crumbs, and bake in a moderate
oven for one hour. Serve hot, with sweetened cream or
Hard Sauce.
FLOATING ISLAND
i quart of milk 4 eggs
y<2, cup of sugar i teaspoon ful of vanilla
i tablespoon ful of corn -starch
Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the whites
of the eggs to a stiff froth, put them, a few spoonfuls at a
time, on top of the boiling milk; let cook one minute, and
then remove them with a skimmer. Now beat the yolks
of the eggs, sugar, and corn-starch together until light,
then stir them into the boiling milk; stir until it thickens
(about one minute). Take from the fire, add the vanilla,
and stand aside to cool. When cold, pour into a glass
dish, heap on the whites of the eggs, dot here and there
with bits of currant jelly, dust with powdered sugar, and
serve very cold.
This will serve eight persons.
GOOSEBERRY FOOL
i quart of ripe gooseberries i tablespoonful of butter
i cup of sugar 4 eggs
Top and stem the gooseberries, and stew them in one pint
of water until they are tender, then press them through a
colander to remove the skins ; add the butter, sugar, and
yolks beaten together until light, and pour into a glass
434 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
dish. Beat the whites of the eggs until foaming, not frothy,
add gradually two heaping tablespoonfuls of powdered
sugar, and beat until they will stand alone ; heap them on
top of the gooseberries, and stand away until very cold.
ORANGE FLOAT
i quart of water Juice and pulp of two lemons
i cup of sugar 5 sweet juicy oranges
4 tablespoonfuls of corn-starch
Put the water on to boil. Moisten the corn-starch with a
little cold water, then stir it into the boiling water, and
cook slowly for ten minutes, stirring constantly. Take
from the fire, add the sugar, lemon juice, and pulp. Cut
the oranges into small pieces, remove the seeds, pour the
boiling corn-starch over them, and stand away to cool.
Serve cold, with sugar and cream.
This will serve eight persons.
PAIN PERDU
Cut stale bread into pieces about two inches square, dip
them first in egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boil-
ing fat. Serve with Nun's Butter.
RICE MERINGUE
i cup of rice 6 eggs
1 pint of milk Juice of two and the grated
2 cups of sugar rind of one lemon
2 ounces of butter
Boil the rice in one quart of water until tender, then drain
in a colander ; add it to the milk ; add the butter, and the
yolks of the eggs and sugar beaten together until light, then
add juice and rind of the lemon ; turn into a baking-dish,
and bake in a quick oven for a half-hour. Beat the whites
of the eggs until foamy, and add gradually six tablespoonfuls
of powdered sugar, beating all the while, then beat until
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS 435
stiff enough to stand alone. Heap this meringue over the
top of the pudding, and put back in the oven to brown.
Serve cold.
This is sufficient for eight persons.
RICE SOUFFLE
3 ounces of rice flour 5 ounces of sugar
2 ounces of butter ^ pint of cream
6 eggs i^ teaspoon ful of salt
i teaspoonful of vanilla
Put the cream on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the butter,
sugar, rice flour, and yolks of the eggs together until light*
then stir them into the boiling milk, and stir continually
until it thickens. Take from the fire, add the vanilla and
salt. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, stir them
carefully into the other mixture, and turn into a glass dish.
Serve cold.
SNOW BALLS
i cup of rice i pint of milk
i teaspoonful of salt
Wash the rice and put it into a farina boiler with the milk.
Boil until tender, add salt, and put into small cups to cool.
When cold, turn out on a deep dish and pour Soft Custard
Sauce around them.
TOUT FAIT
4 eggs 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar
3 tablespoonfuls of flour 2 tablespoonfuls of milk
Juice and rind of one lemon
Beat the yolks of the eggs to a cream, add the sugar, beat
again ; add the milk and the flour, beat until smooth, and
strain. Add the juice, rind of the lemon, and the whites
beaten to a stiff froth ; turn into a greased baking-dish,
dredge thickly with powdered sugar, and bake in a quick
oven fifteen minutes.
This will serve four persons.
PUDDING SAUCES
BRANDY SAUCE
4 tablespoonfuls of butter i cup of powdered sugar
Whites of two eggs i gill of brandy
i gill of boiling water
Beat the butter to a cream, add gradually the sugar, and
beat until white and light ; then add the whites one at a
time, beating all the while. When ready to serve, add the
brandy and boiling water, stand the bowl in a basin of boil-
ing water over the fire, stir until light and creamy, and it is
ready for use.
CARAMEL SAUCE
i cup of granulated sugar
i cup of water
Put the sugar into an iron saucepan, stir with a wooden
spoon over a quick fire until the sugar melts and turns an
amber color, then add the water, let boil two minutes, and
turn out to cool.
CREAM SAUCE
1 pint of thick sweet cream i teaspoonful of vanilla or two
2 tablespoonfuls of powdered tablespoonfuls of sherry
sugar i nutmeg, grated
Add the sugar, vanilla or wine to the cream, stir until the
sugar is dissolved, add the nutmeg, and stand in a cold
place until wanted.
(436)
PUDDING SAUCES 437
CREAMY SAUCE
YI cup of butter ^ cup of powdered sugar
% cup of cream Juice and rind of one lemon
Beat the butter to a cream, add the sugar gradually, beat-
ing all the while. When very light and creamy, add the
cream a little at a time. Now place the bowl in a basm of
boiling water, and stir until the sauce is smooth and creamy,
no longer. It will only take a few minutes. Add lemon,
and serve.
SOFT CUSTARD SAUCE
i pint of milk ^ cup of powdered sugar
3 eggs i teaspoon ful of vanilla
Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the eggs
and sugar together until light and creamy, then stir them
into the boiling milk, and stir over the fire until they begin
to thicken, no longer, or the sauce will curdle. Take from
the fire, add the vanilla, and turn out to cool.
FOAMY SAUCE
^ cup of butter
i cup of powdered sugar
Whites of two eggs
i gill of boiling water
i gill of sherry or a teaspoonful
of vanilla
Beat the butter to a cream, then add gradually the sugar,
and beat until white ; then add the white of one egg un-
beaten, beat again, then add the remaining white, and beat
the whole until very, very light. When ready to serve, add
the sherry or vanilla and boiling water, stand the bowl in a
basin of boiling water over the fire, and stir until frothy,
no longer. Take from the fire, and serve immediately, or it
will lose its lightness.
438 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
HARD SAUCE
^ cup of butter
i cup of powdered sugar
i teaspoonful of vanilla or a table-
spoonful of brandy
Whites of two eggs
Beat the butter to a cream, add gradually the sugar, and
beat until very light ; add the whites, one at a time, and
beat all until very light and frothy, then add gradually the
flavoring, and beat again. Heap it on a small dish, sprinkle
lightly with grated nutmeg, and stand away on the ice to
harden.
FAIRY OR NUN'S BUTTER
Make the same as Hard Sauce, adding a tablespoonful of
sherry instead of the brandy.
LEMON SAUCE
i tablespoonful of corn-starch y 2 cup of sugar
i tablespoonful of butter i egg
i pint of boiling water
Put the corn-starch, egg, butter, and sugar into a bowl and
beat them well ; now pour over them the boiling water, and
stir over a fire until thick ; take from the fire, and add the
juice and rind of one lemon. Serve in a boat.
MADEIRA SAUCE
i tablespoonful of butter i teaspoonful of caramel
i tablespoonful of flour ^ cup of sugar
i pint of boiling water i gill of Madeira
Put the butter in a saucepan, and stir it until slightly bi own,
then add the flour ; mix until smooth ; add the water ;
stir continually until it boils. Add the sugar and caramel,
stand it over boiling water for fifteen minutes, then add the
Madeira, and serve.
-- PUDDING SAUCES 439
MONTROSE SAUCE
i pint of cream % cup of powdered sugar
Yolks of three eggs i heaping tablespoonful of gelatine
A teaspoonful of vanilla
Cover the gelatine with two tablespoon fuls of cold water,
and soak a half-hour. Put the cream on to boil in a farina
boiler. Beat the yolks and sugar together until light, then
stir into the boiling cream; stir until it thickens (about one
minute), add the gelatine, stir until dissolved. Take from
the fire, add the vanilla and (if you use it) two tablespoon-
fuls of brandy and four of sherry. Mix well, and stand
away to cool.
ORANGE SAUCE
Orange sauce may be made precisely the same as Lemon
Sauce, using the rind of one and the juice of two oranges
instead of the lemon.
PEACH SAUCE
4 large, mellow peaches
YZ cup of sugar
^ cup of water
i even tablespoonful of corn -starch
i cup of cream
Whites of two eggs
Pare and stone the peaches ; put them in a saucepan with
the water and sugar, stew until tender, then press them
through a colander. Put the cream on to boil in a farina
boiler ; moisten the corn-starch in a little cold water, and
stir into the boiling cream ; stir until it thickens ; then
beat into it the peaches and the whites of the eggs beaten
to a stiff froth. Stand in a cold place until very cold.
Apricot Sauce may be made in the same manner, using
canned apricots.
440 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
OUR COOKING-SCHOOL SAUCE
Yolks of three eggs i gill of boiling water
^ pound of sugar ^ pint of wine
6 ounces of butter Nutmeg to taste
Beat the butter to a cream, then add the sugar ; beat again,
add the yolks, and beat until perfectly light and frothy, then
add the wine, water, and nutmeg. Stand the bowl in a
pan of boiling water, over the fire, and stir continually for
five minutes. Serve hot.
VANILLA SAUCE
i pint of milk 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar
Yolks of four eggs i teaspoonful of vanilla
Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the yolks
and the sugar together until light, then add them to the
boiling milk ; stir over the fire for two minutes. Take off,
add the vanilla, and put away to cool.
VINEGAR SAUCE
Proceed the same as for Madeira Sauce, using a half-gill of
vinegar instead of a gill of Madeira.
WINE SAUCE
Make the same as Foamy Sauce, using a gill of any wine
you may like the flavor of best.
ADDITIONAL RECIPES 441
442 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
ADDITIONAL RECIPES 443
44-4 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
ICE CREAMS
PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAMS
To make good Philadelphia ice cream, use only the best
materials. Avoid gelatine, arrowroot, or any other thick-
ening substance. Good, pure cream, ripe fruit, or the best
canned in winter, and granulated sugar, make a perfect ice
cream. Next, get a good freezer, one working with a crank,
and double revolving dasher, making a triple motion.
Fruit and fruit flavorings should be added to the cream
after the latter is frozen. The best ice cream is made by
first scalding the cream and dissolving the sugar in it while
hot. When raw cream is frozen, the flavoring is not so
prominent, and the cream has a frozen, snowy taste, and is
never perfectly smooth and velvety. Cheaper ice creams
are usually made in this way, as they swell to double their
original bulk.
Before turning the mixture into the freezing-can, see
that the dasher is right side up, and the can properly ad-
justed ; then pour in the mixture, put on the cover, fasten
the crank, and give it a turn to see that all is right.
Pound the ice fine in a coarse bag, and get the salt, which
should be coarse or rock. A four-quart freezer will require
ten pounds of ice and two quarts of salt. Now put in a
layer of ice about three inches deep, then a layer of salt
(445)
446 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
one inch deep, and continue this to the top of the can.
Now turn the crank slowly and steadily until it goes pretty
hard. If properly packed, it will take twenty to twenty-
five minutes to freeze. It is not well to freeze too quickly.
Water ices require a longer time than ice creams. When
frozen, remove the crank, wipe the lid of the can, and
take it off, being careful not to allow any salt to fall into
the can ; remove the dasher, and scrape it off; take a large,
wooden spatula or mush stick, and scrape the cream from
the sides of the can, and beat and work steadily for ten
minutes ; this makes the cream smooth. Now put the lid
on the can, put a cork in the hole where the dasher was
taken out, drain off the water from the tub, repack with
salt and ice, cover the tub with a piece of carpet, and stand
away in a cold place for one or two hours to ripen. When
the cream is fresh, in tasting, you taste each ingredient
separately, but after standing one or two hours they blend
and form a pleasant whole. This is called ripening. When
ready to serve, dip the can quickly in cold water and wipe
it, then turn the cream out on a dish. If you wish to serve
the cream in forms, after you are done workirg it with a
wooden spatula, fill the mould or form with the cream,
press it down with a spoon, being careful to fill every part
of the mould. Bind the edge of the mould with a piece
of letter paper, put on the lid and press it down. Dip a
strip of muslin in melted butter and cover the joint. Pack
the mould in salt and ice for one or two hours until wanted.
If you have no freezer, an impromptu one may be made by
using a tin pail for the can and a bucket or cask for the
tub. In this case it will have to be stirred occasionally,
while freezing, with a wooden spoon or flat stick, replacing
the lid of the kettle after each stirring, and give the pail a
rotary motion in the ice.
To freeze puddings, follow the same directions.
ICE CREAMS 447
BURNT ALMOND ICE CREAM
i quart of cream 4 ounces of shelled almonds
y<i pound of sugar i teaspoonful of caramel
i tablespoonful of vanilla 4 tablespoonfuls of sherry
Blanch, and roast the almonds until a golden brown, then
pound them in a mortar to a smooth paste. Put one-
half the cream and the sugar on to boil, stir until the sugar
is dissolved, then add the remaining pint of cream and the
almonds ; stand away to cool. When cold, add the cara-
mel, vanilla and sherry, and freeze. When frozen, remove
the dasher, repack the tub, cover with an old piece of carpet,
and stand away two hours to ripen. This will serve six
persons.
APRICOT ICE CREAM
i quart of cream ^ pound of sugar
i quart of apricots or one pint-can
Put half the cream on to boil in a farina boiler ; when hot,
add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Take from the fire,
add the remaining half of the cream; and, when cold, freeze.
Pare and mash the apricots, and stir them quickly into the
frozen cream. Turn the crank rapidly for five minutes,
then remove the dasher, repack the tub, cover, and stand
away two hours to ripen.
This will serve six persons.
BANANA ICE CREAM
6 large red or eight lady fingers i quart of cream
YI pound of sugar
Pare and mash the bananas. Put one pint of the cream on
to boil in a farina boiler ; when hot, add the sugar, stir
until dissolved, and stand aside to cool. Beat and stir the
bananas to a smooth paste, add them to the cream and
sugar ; then add the remaining pint of cream, and turn into
the freezer and freeze.
This will serve eight persons.
448 PHILADELPHIA COOK ftOOK
BISQUE ICE CREAM
1 quart of good cream ^ pound of sugar
i^ pound of macaroons 4 kisses
2 lady fingers i teaspoonful of vanilla
i teaspoonful of caramel.
Pound the macaroons, kisses, and lady fingers (which
should be stale) through a colander. Put one pint of
cream on to boil, in a farina boiler, add to it the sugar ;
stir until boiling hot. Take from the fire, add the remain-
der of the cream; and, when cold, turn into the freezer and
freeze. When frozen, add the vanilla, caramel, and the
pounded cakes, and (if you use it) five tablespoonfuls of
sherry ; beat the whole until perfectly smooth. Drain the
water from the tub, add more salt and ice, remove the
dasher, cover the freezer, and let stand three or four hours
to ripen.
BROWN BREAD ICE CREAM
3 slices of Boston brown bread
i quart of cream
YZ pound of sugar
Toast and dry the bread in the oven, then pound it and
sift it through a fine sieve. Put half the cream on to boil,
add to it the sugar, stir until dissolved; add the remaining
pint of cream, and stand away to cool. When cold, turn
into the freezer and freeze. When frozen, beat into it the
brown bread, take out the dasher, re-pack the tub, cover,
and stand away to ripen.
Biscuit Ice Cream is made in precisely the same man-
ner, using six ounces of wine biscuit, instead of the brown
bread.
CARAMEL ICE CREAM
Put four ounces of granulated sugar in an iron frying-pan,
and stir over the fire until the sugar melts, turns brown,
boils, and smokes. Have ready one pint of boiling milk,
ICE CREAMS 449
turn the burnt sugar into this, stir over the fire one minute,
and stand away to cool. When cold, add a half-pound of
sugar, one quart of cream, and one tablespoonful of
vanilla-sugar or the same of the extract; mix well, and
freeze. When frozen, remove the dasher, stir into the
cream one pint of whipped cream, re-pack, cover, and
stand for two hours to ripen.
This will serve twelve persons.
COFFEE ICE CREAM
i quart of cream
YZ pound of pulverized sugar
4 ounces of Mocha or three ounces of Java
Have the coffee ground coarsely ; put it in a farina boiler
with one pint of the cream and steep for ten minutes, then
strain it through a fine muslin, pressing it hard to get all
the strength. Add the sugar, stir until it is dissolved, add
the remaining pint of cream, cool, and freeze. Remove
the dasher, re-pack, cover, and stand away for two hours
to ripen.
This will serve six persons.
CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM
i quart of cream
4 ounces of sweet chocolate
i^ teaspoon ful of powdered cinnamon
i heaping tablespoonful of vanilla-sugar or
one tablespoonful of the extract
^ pound of sugar
Put one-half the cream, the chocolate, sugar, cinnamon,
and vanilla-sugar on to boil ; stir and beat until smooth ;
strain, while hot, through a fine muslin, add the remaining
half of the cream, cool, and freeze. Re-pack, etc., the
same as in preceding recipes.
This will serve six persons.
450 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
* LEMON ICE CREAM
i quart of cream 9 ounces of sugar
The grated rind of three Juice of two lemons
lemons Juice of one orange
Mix the sugar, juice and rind of the lemons, and orange
juice together, and stand in a cold place one hour. Put
the cream into a farina boiler ; and, when scalding hot,
stand aside to cool. When cold, partly freeze, then add
the sugar and lemon juice, which by this time should be
thoroughly dissolved, turn the crank rapidly for five min-
utes, and finish the same as preceding recipes.
This will serve six people.
ORANGE ICE CREAM
i quart of cream ^ pound of sugar
Juice of six oranges Rind of one orange
Put one-half the cream on to boil in a farina boiler, add
the sugar, and stir until it is dissolved. Take from the
fire ; and, when cool, add the juice and rind of the oranges,
and the remaining half of the cream. Turn into the
freezer, and freeze. Finish the same as preceding recipes.
PEACH ICE CREAM
Make precisely the same as Apricot, using large, mellow
peaches in the place of the apricots.
PINEAPPLE ICE CREAM
T quart of cream i large, ripe pineapple or
i pound of sugar one pint-can
Juice of one lemon
Put one pint of cream in a farina boiler with half the*
sugar, stir until the sugar is dissolved, take from the fire,
and stand aside to cool. Pare the pineapple, take out the
eyes, cut open and take out the core ; then grate the flesh,
\
ICE CREAMS 451
mix it with the rest of the sugar, stir until the sugar is dis-
solved. Add the remaining pint of cream to the sweetened
cream, and freeze. Add the lemon juice to the pineapple
and stir into *he frozen cream, beat thoroughly, and finish
as in preceding recipes.
If canned pineapple is used, add the lemon juice to it,
and simply stir the whole into the cream when cold, and
freeze.
This will serve eight people.
PISTACHIO ICE CREAM
i quart of cream i quart spinach
l /<2, pound of sugar i heaping tablespoon ful of
i teaspoonful of the extract vanilla-sugar or a tea-
of almonds spoonful of the extract
YZ pound of shelled pistachio nuts
Wash the spinach, throw it into a kettle of boiling water,
boil rapidly three minutes and drain in a colander ; pound
until reduced to a pulp. Squeeze the juice out through a
fine muslin. Blanch and pound the nuts. Put half the
rream and the sugar in a farina boiler to boil, stir until the
sugar is dissolved, and stand away to cool. When cold,
add the nuts, the flavoring, and the remaining cream, mix,
and add sufficient spinach juice to color it a light green.
Turn into the freezer, and freeze. Finish as in preceding
recipes. If no spinach is at hand, clover or lawn grass
may be used.
This will serve six persons.
RASPBERRY ICE CREAM
i quart of cream i pound of sugar .
i quart of raspberries . Juice of one lemon
Put half the sugar and half the cream on to boil in a
farina boiler ; when the sugar is dissolved, stand aside to
cool. Add the remaining half of the sugar and the lemor.
452 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
juice to the berries, mash and stand aside one hour, then
strain through a fine muslin. Add the remaining half of
the cream to the sweetened cream, and freeze. When
frozen, stir in the fruit juice, beat thoroughly, and finish as
in preceding recipes.
If canned fruit is used, less sugar will be required.
This will serve eight persons.
STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM
Make precisely the same as Raspberry Ice Cream, omitting
the lemon juice, and using one and a half quarts of berries.
VANILLA ICE CREAM
i quart of cream y<, pound of sugar
i vanilla bean or two tablespoon fuls of the extract
Put the sugar, half the cream, and the bean split in halves
on to boil in a farina boiler ; stir constantly for ten min-
utes. Take from the fire, take out the bean, and with a
blunt knife scrape out the seeds and the soft part from the
inside of the bean, being careful not to waste one drop.
Mix the seeds thoroughly with the cream, and stand away
to cool. When cold, add the remaining cream, and freeze.
Finish as in preceding recipe.
This will serve six people.
NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAMS
Neapolitan ice creams are made the same as Philadelphia
ice creams excepting the use of eggs in their composition.
CARAMEL
i quart of cream 6 eggs
YZ pound of sugar 3 tablespoonfuls of caramel
i teaspoonful of vanilla
Beat the yolks of the eggs until creamy, then add the sugar,
and beat again until very light. Whisk the whites to a
ICE CREAMS 453
stiff froth, stir them into the yolks and sugar. Put the
cream on to boil in a farina boiler; when boiling, stir in
the eggs and sugar, and stir and cook until the the mixture
begins to thicken. Take from the fire, strain through a
fine sieve, and let stand till cold, then add the vanilla, pour
into the freezer, and freeze. Finish the same as Philadel-
phia ice creams.
This will serve ten persons.
CHOCOLATE
i quart of cream 6 eggs
Y* pound of sugar A small piece of stick cin-
i tablespoonful of vanilla namon
4 ounces of sweet chocolate
Put the cream and cinnamon on to steep in a farina boiler.
Beat the yolks of the eggs and sugar together until very
light. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, then
add them to the yolks and sugar; stir this into the cream,
and stir and cook until it begins to thicken. Take from
the fire, strain, add the chocolate grated, and strain again.
Stand away to cool. When cold, freeze and finish as in
preceding recipes.
This is very nice with whipped cream served around it.
Sufficient for ten persons.
VANILLA
i quart of cream i vanilla bean or two table-
6 eggs spoonfuls of extract
Y^ pound of sugar
Put the cream on to boil in a farina boiler. Split the bean,
scrape out all the seeds and pulp, and mix it with the sugar.
Put the outside of the bean into the cream to steep. Beat
the yolks and sugar together until light, then whisk the
whites to a stiff froth, stir them into the eggs and sugar,
then stir them into the boiling cream. Stir over the fire
454 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
until it begins to thicken or coats a knife-blade when dipped
in it. Take from the fire, strain, and stand away to cool.
When cold, turn into the freezer, pack, and stir occasionally
for ten minutes, until the mixture is icy cold, then beat
rapidly and steadily until frozen. Finish as in preceding
recipes.
This will serve ten persons.
All the fruit creams given in preceding recipes may be
made in Neapolitan creams, allowing six eggs and three-
quarters of a pound of sugar to every quart of cream.
TUTTI FRUTTI No. i
i quart of orange water-ice
Y^, pound of candied cherries
YZ pound of candied apricots
*j pound of candied pineapples
Chop the fruit very fine ; and, when the water-ice is frozen
hard enough to remove the dasher, stir in the fruit, and beat
thoroughly. Cover and stand away to ripen for two hours.
This will serve eight persons.
TUTTI FRUTTI No. 2
Add one pound of mixed French candied fruit, four table-
spoonfuls of sherry, and one tablespoonful of brandy to
quart of Neapolitan cream.
FROZEN CUSTARD
i quart of cream ^ pound of sugar
Yelks of six eggs i tablespoonful of vanilla
Put the cream on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the yolks
and sugar together until light, and stir into the boiling
cream ; stir continually until it thickens ; take from the
fire, add the vanilla, and stand aside to cool. When cold,
freeze.
This will serve eight persons.
ICE CREAMS 455
ALASKA BAKE
Cover thickly a two-quart brick mould of ice cream with a
meringue made from the whites of six eggs and six table-
spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Stand the dish on a board,
and place it in a very quick oven to brown. The meringue
acts as a non-conductor, and prevents the heat from melt-
ing the ice-cream. It may also be browned with a sala-
mander or a heated fire-shovel.
A dainty dish for one's guests.
BISCUITS GLACES No. i
i quart of cream i teaspoon ful of vanilla
Yolks of six eggs ^ teaspoon ful of salt
y z pound of sugar i gill of maraschino
Put half the cream on to boil. Beat the sugar and yolks
together until very, very light, then stir them into the boil-
ing cream, and stir over the fire until it begins to thicken.
Take from the fire, and put aside to cool. When cold,
add the vanilla and maraschino, and freeze in the usual
manner. Whip the remaining pint of cream to a stiff
froth, and stir into the frozen mixture. Fill individual
moulds or paper cases with the biscuit (the name now given
to this mixture), pack in salt and ice, and freeze two hours.
BISCUITS GLACES No. 2
24 pound of sugar i tablespoonful of vanilla
i pint of cream Yolks of six eggs
i pint of water i gill of sherry
2 tablespoon fuls of brandy
Put the sugar and water on to boil, and boil to a syrup ;
that is, when you dip a spoon into the syrup, and then hold
it in the air, the drops, as they fall from the side of the
spoon, spin threads. Beat the yolks of the eggs to a cream,
add them to the boiling syrup, and beat with a whisk over
the fire until it forms a custard that will thickly coat a knife,
then strain through a sieve into a large bowl, and whisk
456 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
again until stiff and cold, then add the flavoring. Whip
the cream, and stir it carefully into this mixture ; fill paper
cases or individual moulds. Pack the moulds in salt and
ice, and freeze two hours. If paper cases, stand them in
the bottom of the freezer, put sheets of paper between each
layer, pack the freezer with salt and ice, and stand away
for three hours.
BOMBE GLACE
Pack a bombe glace mould in salt and ice, remove the lid,
and line the mould about one inch thick with either Vanilla
Ice Cream or Strawberry Water-ice, fill the centre with
Biscuit Glace" Mixture, No. 2, which must be icy cold, put
on the lid, cover with salt and ice, and stand away to freeze
three or four hours.
ICED CAKE
Make a plain cup cake, and bake it in a deep, square mould.
The cake should be at least seven inches thick when done.
Make a Frozen Custard (see recipe). When ready to serve,
cut off the top of the cake, and take out the centre, leaving
a bottom and wall about one inch thick. Fill this space
with the Frozen Custard ; now put the top back ; if it is
high in the centre, cut the elevation off, and take the
bottom of the cake for the top. Serve with cold Brandy
Sauce poured around it.
CAFE PARFAIT
i quart of thick cream i gill of black coffee
^ cup of powdered sugar
Add the coffee and sugar to the cream, then whip the whole
to a froth ; as fast as the froth comes to the surface, skim
it off and place in a colander to drain. That which drains
off may be turned back and whipped over. When you
have it all whipped, turn it carefully into an ice-cream
mould, press the lid down tightly, bind the joint with a
ICE CREAMS 457
strip of buttered muslin, pack in salt and ice, and freeze
three hours.
This is as simple as it sounds, and always turns out
well.
The above will serve eight persons.
STRAWBERRY PARFAIT
i quart of crearn i pint of canned strawberries or a
Sugar to taste half-pint of strawberry juice
Whip the cream to a froth, as directed in Cafe Parfait, then
add the strawberry juice and sugar, mix carefully, and finish
same as Cafe Parfait. If canned strawberries are used,
they must be pressed through a colander.
Parfait may be made from any flavoring or fruit de-
sired, the parfait taking the name of the flavoring or fruit
used, as Chocolate Parfait, Vanilla Parfait, etc.
ORANGE SOUFFLE (FROZEN)
i quart of cream i pint of orange juice
Yolks of six eggs y z box of gelatine
i pound of sugar
Cover the gelatine with a half-cup of cold water, and soak
one hour ; then add a half-cup of boiling water, and stir
until dissolved. Mix the orange juice and sugar together
until they form a syrup. Beat the yolks of the eggs to a
cream. Whip the cream. Now mix the syrup and yolks
together in a tin basin, stand the basin in a pan of ice-
water, strain the gelatine into it, and stir carefully until it
begins to thicken, then stir in lightly and hastily the
whipped cream, turn into an ice-cream mould, pack in salt
and ice, and freeze two hours.
This should not be frozen as hard as ice cream.
Serve with Montrose Sauce poured around it.
This will serve ten people. By changing the flavoring
and adding sugar acordingly, endless varieties of souffles
may be made from this recipe.
WATER-ICES AND SHERBETS
In all recipes where the sugar and water are boiled, the
time must be noted exactly, the scum removed from the
syrup, and the syrup strained through a fine cloth while hot,
and then cooled before adding the fruit juice, or the true
flavor^ will be lost. The freezer must be packed according
to directions given for freezing ice cream. Turn the crank
very slowly for a few minutes, then rest for about five min-
utes, turn slowly again and again rest and continue this
until the water-ice is frozen pretty hard. A much longer
time is required for freezing water-ice than ice cream.
When you can turn no longer, take out the dasher, scrape
down the sides of the can, and give the water-ice a
thorough beating with a paddle. Put a cork in the lid of
the can, draw the water from the tub, re-pack it, cover
with an old piece of carpet, and stand away two or three
hours to ripen, that is, to become mellow and smooth.
Fruit jelly may be used in the place of fresh fruit,
allowing one pint of jelly and a half-pound of sugar to
every quart of water.
If you wish a sherbet instead of a water-ice, proceed
exactly the same until you put it in the freezer, then turn
the dasher rapidly and steadily until the mixture is frozen
pretty hard. Then remove the dasher, beat the white of
(458)
WATER-ICES AND SHERBETS 459
one egg to a froth, add one tablespoonful of powdered
sugar, and beat again until it will stand alone. Stir this
into the sherbet, beat well, cover, and stand away to ripen.
TO MOULD
When the sherbet or ice is to be served in a form, wet the
mould with cold water, fill it with the frozen mixture, pack
down well into all the designs, put a piece of white letter
paper over the open end, put on the lid and press it down
tightly, then pack in salt and ice. When ready to serve,
wash in cold water, remove the lid, and turn the sherbet
out on a plate. If it should stick, wait a moment, and
perhaps the heat of the room will loosen it ; if not, wash
again with water. Do not dip the mould in hot water, for,
no matter how quickly it is done, it spoils the shape of the
form.
CHERRY WATER-ICE
i y?. quarts of pie or i pound of sugar
morello cherries i pint of water
Stone the cherries, and mash them. Crack one dozen
stones, take out the kernels, bruise them and work to a
paste, then add them to the cherries, let them stand for an
hour and strain through a bag under pressure. Boil the
sugar and water together for five minutes, then stand aside
to cool. When cold, mix with the cherry juice, and freeze.
(See rule for freezing.)
This will serve six persons.
CURRANT WATER-ICE
Make the same as Cherry Water-Ice, using one pint of red
currant juice, one pound of sugar, and one pint of boiling
water.
460 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
GRAPE WATER-ICE
i quart of water i pint of grape juice
i pound of sugar
Boil the sugar and water together for five minutes. Pulp
the grapes and add the pulps and skins to the syrup, then
press through a sieve, being careful not to mash the seeds.
When cold, turn into the freezer, and freeze.
This will serve ten persons.
GINGER WATER-ICE
6 ounces of preserved ginger
i quart of Lemon Water-Ice
Pound four ounces of ginger to a paste. Cut the remain-
ing two ounces into very thin slices, and stir into the
water-ice; beat until thoroughly mixed. Cover, and stand
away to ripen.
LEMON WATER-ICE
4 nice juicy lemons i orange
. i quart of water i^ pounds of sugar
Put the sugar and water on to boil; chip the yellow rind
from three lemons and the orange, add to the syrup, boil
five minutes, and stand away to cool. Peel the oranges
and lemons, cut them in halves, take out the seeds, and
squeeze out all the juice; mix this with the syrup, strain
through a cloth, turn into the freezer, and freeze.
This will serve six persons.
ORANGE WATER-ICE
12 large oranges , i pint of sugar
i quart of water
Make the same as Lemon Water-ice, chipping the rinds from
three oranges.
WATER-ICES AND SHERBETS 461
PINEAPPLE WATER-ICE
For this use the large, yellow pineapples.
2 large pineapples or i % pounds of sugar
one quart-can i quart of water
Juice of two lemons
Pare the pineapples ; cut them open and take out the cores,
which should not be used. Grate the pineapples and strain
the pulp through a French sieve, pressing it hard to get all
the juice ; add the sugar to this juice, stir until dissolved ;
then add the lemon juice and water, turn into the freezer,
and freeze.
This will serve ten persons.
POMEGRANATE WATER-ICE
i dozen pomegranates i pint of water
i pound of sugar
Peel the pomegranates; remove the seeds carefully from the
inside bitter skin, press the pulp through a sieve without
mashing the seeds ; add the sugar to the juice, and stir until
dissolved ; then add the water, strain, turn into the freezer,
and freeze.
This will serve six persons.
RASPBERRY WATER-ICE
i quart of red raspberries Juice of two lemons
i quart of water i pound of sugar
Add the sugar and lemon juice to the berries, stir, and let
stand one hour; then press through a sieve, then add the
water, turn into a freezer, and freeze.
This will serve eight persons.
STRAWBERRY WATER-ICE
i quart of red strawberries i quart of water
i pound of sugar Juice of two lemons
Add the sugar and lemon juice to the strawberries, then
462 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
mash them, and stand aside one hour; then strain through
a fine sieve, add the water, and turn into the freezer to
freeze.
This will serve eight persons.
ORANGE SHERBET
Juice of twelve oranges i pint of sugar
2 tablespoon fuls of gelatine i quart of boiling water
Cover the gelatine with cold water and soak a half-hour ;
then add the boiling water and sugar, and stir over the fire
until it boils. Stand out to cool. When cold, add the
orange juice, and strain through a fine sieve. Let stand
until cold, turn into a freezer, and freeze (see rule for
freezing).
FROZEN FRUITS
Frozen fruits are mixed and frozen the same as water-ice,
mashing or cutting the fruits, and using them without
straining.
If canned fruits are used, only half the quantity of
sugar given in the recipes for fresh fruits will be required.
FROZEN APRICOTS
1 quart-can of apricots i cup of sugar
2 tablespoonfuls of gelatine i pint of cream
Drain the apricots, cut them up with a silver spoon, and
remove the stones. Add the sugar to the syrup, and suffi-
cient water to make one and a half pints. Cover the gela-
tine with cold water and soak a half-hour. Boil the water,
sugar and syrup together for five minutes ; skim careful!}',
add the gelatine, stir until dissolved, add the apricots and
stand aside to cool. When cold, pour into the freezer,
and freeze. When frozen, add the cream, whipped, remove
WATER-ICES AND SHERBETS 463
the dasher, cover the tub, and stand away two hours to
ripen .
This will serve ten persons.
FROZEN BANANAS
i dozen red-skin bananas i pint of water
i pound of sugar Juice of two oranges
i pint of cream
Peel the bananas, cut them in slices with a silver knife,
then mash them fine. Boil the water and sugar together
for five minutes ; strain ; and, when cool, add the orange
juice and bananas. Put into the freezer, and turn slowly
until frozen ; then remove the dasher, and stir in carefully
one pint of cream, whipped.
This will serve eight persons.
FROZEN CHERRIES
2 quarts of pie or morello cherries, 2 pounds of sugar
or one quart-can i quart of water
Stone the cherries, mix them with the sugar, and stand
aside one hour ; then stir until the sugar is thoroughly dis-
solved ; add the water, put into the freezer, and turn rapidly
until frozen.
This will serve ten persons.
FROZEN MIXED FRUITS No. i
i pint of sour plums i quart of water
1 2 peaches 6 peach kernels
i pound of sugar
Pare the peaches and chop them fine with a silver spoon.
Scald the plums, remove the skins and stones, mash the
plums, and add them to the peaches. Mash the kernels to
a paste, add them and the sugar to the fruit ; let stand one
hour ; then add the water, and stir until the sugar is dis-
solved ; then turn into the freezer and freeze.
This will serve ten persons.
464 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
FROZEN MIXED FRUITS No. 2
i pint of strawberries i pint of red carrants
i pint of raspberries Juice of two lemons
i pint of water ij^ pounds of sugar
Mash the fruit ; add the sugar and lemon juice ; let stand
one hour ; add the water, stir until the sugar is dissolved,
then turn into the freezer, and freeze.
This will serve eight persons.
FROZEN ORANGES.
1 dozen oranges i quart of water
Juice of two lemons i pound of sugar
Rub the rind of three oranges well into the sugar ; then
peel all the oranges, open the sections and take out all the
pulp ; then add to it the sugar and lemon juice ; stand
aside one hour ; then add the water, stir until the sugar is
dissolved ; then turn into the freezer, and freeze.
This will serve eight persons.
FROZEN PEACHES
2 pounds of peaches 6 peach kernels
1 quart of water \y, pounds of sugar
Pare the peaches and take out the stones. Pound the ker-
nels to a paste, add them to the sugar, then boil the sugar
and water together for five minutes, then strain and stand
away to cool. When cold, add to it the peaches, mashed,
turn into the freezer, and freeze. A half-teaspoonful of
cochineal may be added if the peaches are colorless.
This will serve ten persons.
FROZEN PINEAPPLE
2 large rose pineapples i quart of water
2 pounds of sugar
Pare the pineapples, cut out the eyes, cut open, and remove
the cores. Grate the flesh, add the sugar and water, stir
until the sugar is dissolved, turn into the freezer, and freeze.
This will serve ten persons.
WATER-ICES AND SHERBETS 465
FROZEN RASPBERRIES
i quart of raspberries i pound of sugar
Juice of two lemons i quart of water
Add the sugar and lemon juice to the berries, then mash
them with a potato masher ; let stand one hour, then
add the water, stir until the sugar is dissolved, turn into
the freezer, and freeze.
This will serve eight persons.
FROZEN STRAWBERRIES
i quart of strawberries
Juice of two lemons
i pound of sugar
1 quart of water
Add the sugar and lemon juice to the berries ; let stand
one hour ; then mash the berries, add the water, stir until
the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, turn into the freezer, and
freeze.
This will serve eight persons.
FROZEN PUNCH
6 lemons
2 oranges
^ pint of champagne
i pint of water
i gill of rum
i pound of pulverized sugar
YZ gill of brandy
Peel the oranges and lemons, then squeeze out all the juice,
add the liquors and sugar, and stir until the sugar is dis-
solved; then add the water, put into the freezer, and
turn slowly and steadily until the mixture is partly frozen.
It will require a long time to freeze, and should not be frozen
hard. Remove the dasher, cover, and stand away two
hours to ripen. This will fill twelve glasses.
466- PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
ROMAN PUNCH
i quart of lemon water-ice ^ pint of Jamaica rum
YZ pint of champagne i gill of maraschino
i teaspoonful of vanilla
Have the lemon water-ice frozen very hard, thin it slowly
with the liquors, beat well. Pack and cover the freezer
well, stand it away four or five hours to ripen. It must not
be frozen hard, as it is better when served rather liquid and
frothy. Serve in glasses.
FROZEN COFFEE
i quart of water ^ pound of sugar
4 heaping tablespoonfuls of ground coffee
The coffee should be ground very fine, then put in a farina
boiler. Add one quart of freshly boiled water, and steep
for fifteen minutes, then strain through a very fine muslin,
add the sugar, and stir until dissolved. Turn into the
freezer, add one tablespoonful of the white of egg, and
freeze until the consistency of soft mush. Serve in goblets.
Frozen tea may be made in the same way.
JELLIES
GELATINE JELLIES
LEMON JELLY
i box of gelatine 3 large lemons
i pound of sugar i quart of boiling water
i pint of cold water
Cover the gelatine with the cold water, and let soak one
hour ; then add the boiling water, sugar and lemon juice,
and stir until the sugar is dissolved ; strain, and stand in a
cold place to harden.
ORANGE JELLY
Make the same as Lemon Jelly, using one pint of boiling
water and one pint of orange juice.
WINE JELLY
i box of gelatine y 2 pint of cold water
i pint of sherry i pint of boiling water
Cover the gelatine with the cold water, and let it soak one
hour, then add the boiling water and sugar, and stir until
the sugar is dissolved ; add the wine, strain through a flan-
nel, turn into forms, and stand away to harden.
PORT JELLY
Make the same as Wine Jelly, using one pint of port wine.
This makes a very dark jelly.
(467)
468 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
BRANDY JELLY
Make the same as Wine Jelly, using a half-pint of wine,
and a half-pint of brandy, instead of the one pint of wine.
CARDINAL JELLY
i box of gelatine i pint of cranberry juice
YZ pint of sherry y 2 pint of cold water
i pint of boiling water i pound of sugar
Cover the gelatine with the cold water, and let soak one
hour ; then add the sugar and boiling water, stir until the
sugar is dissolved, then add the wine. Put one quart of
cranberries in a porcelain-lined kettle, and stand them over
the back part of the stove until thoroughly heated, then
mash them, and squeeze through a flannel bag ; add one
pint of this juice to the jelly, and strain the whole through
the jelly-bag. Stand away to cool.
A GOOD MIXED JELLY
i box of gelatine i pound of sugar
Juice of two lemons Juice of two oranges
y?, pint of sherry i gill of brandy
y& pint of cold water i quart of boiling water
Cover the gelatine with cold water, and let soak one hour ;
then add the sugar and boiling water, stir until the sugar
is dissolved ; ' then add the lemon and orange juice, the
sherry and brandy. Strain through a flannel jelly-bag, and
stand away to harden.
ROCK-WORK OF JELLY
Make a Cardinal and Lemon Jelly, pour each in a large tin
basin, and stand in a cold place over night. When ready
to use, cut the jelly into blocks and heap on a round, flat
dish, using dark and light jellies alternately. Garnish with
smilax studded with carnations.
This makes a very handsome dish to serve with sweet-
meats.
JELLIES 469
CALF'S FOOT JELLY
4 calves' feet 2 inches of stick cinnamon
6 quarts of cold water i pound of white sugar
Juice of four lemons Juice of two oranges
Whites and shells of two eggs
Clean the feet, wash and scrub them well in cold water.
Put them in a soup kettle with the cold water, and simmer
slowly for eight hours. It should be reduced to two
quarts. When done, strain the liquid into an earthen
bowl, and stand it away until next day. In the morning,
remove all the fat from the surface, and the sediment from
the bottom of the jelly. Now put it in a kettle, and stand
it over the fire ; add the cinnamon, sugar, lemon and
orange juice, the whites of the eggs slightly beaten, and the
shells crushed. Mix all the ingredients well together, and
boil it hard, without stirring, twenty minutes. Now throw
in a gill of cold water, let it come again to a boil ; then
stand it on the side of the range, and keep it closely cov-
ered for a half-hour. Dip a flannel jelly-bag into boiling
water, and hang it where a bowl can be placed under-
neath. Now pour the jelly into the bag carefully, and let
it drip slowly. On no account must you squeeze or touch
the bag, as this clouds the jelly at once. Turn it into
moulds, and stand in a cold place.
If you use wine, a half- pint of sherry may be added
before putting it into the moulds.
ASPIC JELLY
i pound of uncooked beef i large tablespoonful of
A knuckle of veal butter
^ pound of bacon i onion
i slice of turnip ^ carrot
1 slice of parsnip A stalk of celery
2 cloves 6 pepper-corns
470 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
1 blade of mace 3 whole allspice
A chip of lemon rind i tablespoon ful of Worces-
2 quarts of water tershire sauce
Salt to taste
Put the bacon in the bottom of a soup kettle, let it brown,
then add the onion cut in slices ; stir until a nice brown ;
then add the butter, and, when hot, the beef; cover the
kettle and let it simmer until a thick brown glaze is formed
in the bottom of the kettle ; then add the veal and the
water, and simmer gently for two hours. Now add the veg-
etables, Worcestershire sauce, spices, and lemon rind, and
simmer two hours longer. When done, it should be reduced
one-half. Strain and clarify the same as Bouillon. Turn
into a square mould or the small aspic jelly moulds. If
you use a large mould, cut the jelly into blocks.
This is used as a garnish for Beef a la Mode, Boned
Turkey, or any other cold-meat dish.
FRUIT JELLIES
APPLE JELLY
Lady blush or fall pippins are best for jelly. The first
make a bright-red jelly, and the latter an almost white
jelly.
Wipe the fruit, cut it into pieces without paring or
removing the seeds. Put into a porcelain-lined kettle and
barely cover with cold water ; cover the kettle, and boil
slowly until the apples are very tender ; then drain them
through a flannel jelly-bag do not squeeze, or the jelly
will be cloudy. To every pint of this juice allow one pound
of granulated sugar. Put the juice into a porcelain-lined
kettle, and bring it quickly to a boil ; add the sugar, stir
until the sugar is dissolved, then boil rapidly and continu-
ously until it jellies, skimming the scum as it comes to the
JELLIES 471
surface ; twenty minutes is usually sufficient, but sometimes
I have boiled it thirty- five minutes before it would jelly
properly. It is wise to commence testing after fifteen
minutes' boiling. To do this, take out one teaspoonful'of
the boiling jelly, pour it into the bottom of a saucer, and
stand it in a cold place for a moment ; then scrape it one
side with a spoon if jellied, the surface will be partly
solid ; if not, boil a few minutes longer, and try again.
As soon as it jellies, roll the tumblers quickly in boiling
water, then fill them with the boiling liquid. Stand aside
until cold and firm (about twenty-four hours). Then, if
you have jelly-tumblers, put on the lids ; if not, cover with
two thicknesses of tissue paper, and paste the edges of the
paper down over the edge of the tumbler. Then moisten
the top of the paper with a sponge dipped in cold water.
This moistening stretches the paper, so that when it dries
again it shrinks and forms a covering as tight and smoo*th
as bladder skin. I do not recommend jelly being covered
with brandied paper, as in my hands it has never been sat-
isfactory. The jelly, in cooling, forms its own air-proof
covering, and if the top of the tumbler be well secured, it
is all that is necessary. Keep in a cool, dark place.
CRAB APPLE JELLY
Cut the large Siberian crab apples into halves, and then
into quarters, and to every five pounds of apples allow one
pint of water. Proceed and finish precisely the same as for
Apple Jelly.
BLACKBERRY JELLY
The uncultivated blackberries are best for jelly, and should
be rather under- than over-ripe. Put the berries into a
stone jar, stand it in a kettle of cold water, cover the top
472 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
of the jar, and boil slowly for one hour, or until the ber-
ries are quite soft. Now put a small quantity at a time into
your jelly-bag, and squeeze out all the juice. Measure the
juice, and to each pint allow one pound of granulated
sugar. Turn the juice into a porcelain-lined kettle, and
stand over a brisk fire. Put the sugar into earthen dishes
and stand them in the oven to heat. Boil the juice rapidly
and continuously for twenty minutes, then turn in the sugar,
hastily stirring all the while until the sugar is dissolved.
Dip your tumblers quickly into hot water, watch the liquid
carefully, and, as soon as it comes again to a boil, take it
from the fire and fill the tumblers.
If the fruit is over -ripe, your jelly will never be firm,
no matter how long you boil it.
Follow these directions carefully, and you will never
fail.
CHERRY JELLY
For Cherry Jelly, use the pie or morello cherry, and pro-
ceed the same as for Blackberry Jelly.
CRANBERRY JELLY
i quart of cranberries i pound of sugar
y? pint of water
Wash the cranberries and put them on with the water to
boil for ten minutes, then mash and squeeze through a
flannel bag. Return the juice to the kettle, add the sugar,
boil rapidly and continuously for about fifteen minutes, or
until it jellies, and turn out to cool.
CURRANT JELLY
Select currants that have been freshly picked and are not
too ripe. If they are sandy, wash them, but do not stem.
Mash a small quantity at a time in a stone jar, with a
JELLIES 473
potato-masher, squeeze through a flannel bag, then strain
again without squeezing, that the liquid may be perfectly
clear. Turn the liquid into a porcelain-lined kettle, stand
over a brisk fire. Put the sugar into earthen basins, and
put in the oven to heat. Boil the juice twenty minutes
after it begins to boil, then stir in hastily the hot sugar,
and stir until the sugar is dissolved, no longer. Skirn
thoroughly, bring it quickly to a boil again, and boil two
minutes. Dip the tumblers into hot water, fill them with
the boiling liquid, and stand away for twenty-four hours to
jelly. If it is not then sufficiently jellied, cover the
tumblers with common window-glass and stand in the sun
several days. Then cover with tissue paper as directed
for Blackberry Jelly.
DAMSON JELLY
Make precisely the same as Blackberry Jelly.
GRAPE JELLY
For this use ripe Concord, Isabella, or Clinton grapes.
They should be freshly picked, and with the bloom on.
Make precisely the same as Blackberry Jelly.
GREEN GRAPE JELLY
Fox grapes are the best for this. Stem the grapes, put
them in a porcelain-lined kettle, barely cover with cold
water, and finish the same as Apple Jelly.
PEACH JELLY
Pare, stone, and slice the peaches, put them into a stone
jar, and to each half-peck of peaches, allow one cup of
water. Crack a dozen of the kernels and throw them in
with the peaches. Stand the jar in a kettle of boiling
474 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
water, cover closely, and boil for one hour, stirring until
the fruit is well broken, then turn into a flannel jelly-bag,
and hang up to drip. To every pound of this juice allow
the juice of one lemon and one pound of granulated sugar.
Finish the same as Apple Jelly.
PEAR JELLY
Make precisely the same as Apple Jelly. This is very
difficult to make.
PLUM JELLY
For this use the common blue plums. Wash them in cold
water, put them into a porcelain-lined kettle, and to each
half-peck allow a pint of water; cover the kettle, and stew
slowly until the plums are boiled to pieces; then turn into
a flannel jelly-bag and let drip slowly; do not squeeze, or
the jelly will be cloudy. Finish the same as Apple Jelly.
QUINCE JELLY
Wipe the fruit, cut it in halves, then in quarters, remove
the seeds but do not pare. Now cut the quinces into thin
slices, and finish the same as Apple Jelly.
The better way is to use the nice pieces for canning or
preserving, and save the parings and knotty pieces for jelly,
always rejecting the seeds, as they prevent the jelly from
being clear and firm.
RASPBERRY JELLY
Make precisely the same as Blackberry Jelly.
STRAWBERRY JELLY
Make precisely the same as Blackberry Jelly.
PLAIN CAKES, BUNS, ETC.
BREAD CAKE
i pint of bread dough 2 eggs
i cup of sugar 2 ounces of butter
i teaspoonful of vanilla
Take the dough at the second kneading, put it into a large
bowl, and add all the other ingredients. Beat with the
hand until smooth and free from strings, then turn into a
greased pan, cover, and stand in a warm place (72 Fahr.)
until light (this will take about two hours). Bake in a
moderately quick oven about three-quarters of an hour.
MORAVIAN SUGAR CAKE
Y?. pound of brown sugar 6 ounces of butter
1 pint of milk 3 pints of flour
2 eggs 2 tablespoon fuls of powdered
^ cup of yeast or half of cinnamon
a compressed cake i teaspoonful of salt
Cut four ounces of the butter into small pieces, add it to
the milk, turn into a farina boiler, and stir over the fire
until the milk is scalding hot and the butter melted. Sift
the flour into a large bowl. When the milk is lukewarm,
add the yeast and salt. Make a well in the centre of the
flour, pour into it the milk, and stir in sufficient flour to
make a thin batter ; cover, and set in a warm place until
(475)
476 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
very light (this will take about two hours and a half).
When light, add the eggs well beaten, half the cinnamon,
and half the sugar; then stir in the remainder of the flour.
Beat it very hard, pour into a greased, shallow, baking-pan
and set it again to rise. Mix the remaining sugar and
cinnamon until smooth and light. When the cake is light,
make deep holes at equal distances all over it, filling each
hole as soon as it is made, with a teaspoon ful of the paste.
Dust the cake heavily with powdered sugar, and bake in a
moderately quick oven one hour.
RUSK
1 pint of milk 2 eggs
2 ounces of butter or lard i cup of sugar
y>, cup of yeast
Put the milk on to scald in a farina boiler, add the butter
or lard and the eggs well beaten. When lukewarm, add
the sugar, pour into a large bowl, add a half-teaspoon ful of
salt and sufficient flour to make a thin batter. Beat con-
tinuously for five minutes, cover and stand in a warm place
(72 Fahr.) over night. In the morning, add sufficient
flour to make a soft dough. Knead lightly for ten minutes,
put back in the bowl, cover, and set again to rise. When
light, pinch off about a tablespoonful of the dough, form
into a ball with the fingers, stand in greased .pans, cover,
and set again to rise. When light, brush the tops over
with a little milk or the white of an egg. This makes a nice
brown crust. Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes.
SPANISH BUN
y 2 pound of butter i gill of yeast
y^ pound of sugar i teaspoon ful of cinnamon
y>, pound of currants i nutmeg, grated
3 eggs ^ teaspoonful of mace
y^ pint of cream i pound of flour
Warm the cream gently, take it from the fire, add the but-
PLAIN CAKES 477
ter cut into dice. Beat the eggs until very light, stir them
into the cream ; then add the sugar, slowly, stirring all the
time; then add the flour, spices, and yeast ; give a thorough
beating, and add the currants well floured. Pour into a
square baking-pan, well greased (the batter should be about
one inch thick), cover, and stand in a warm place to rise
for four or five hours. When it has doubled its bulk, place
in a moderately quick oven, and bake one hour. When
done, turn from the pan, dust with powdered sugar, and
use while fresh.
SWING FELLOWS
Make the same as Rusk, and, when light enough for the
pans, instead of making into balls, take off a piece the size
of a coffee-cup, roll it out the size of a tin pie dish, and
about one inch thick, place it on a greased pie dish, make
holes about one inch apart all over the top, put a small bit
of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little cinnamon in
each hole. Set away until light, and bake in a moderately
quick oven twenty minutes.
BATH BUNS
i pint of milk Y? cup of yeast or half of a
i cup of butter compressed cake dis-
Yolks of six egg solved in a half-cup of
\Yz quarts of sifted flour lukewarm water
YZ cup of currants ^ cup of chopped citron
YI cup of sugar i teaspoonful of cinnamon
Boil the milk, add the butter while hot, and let it stand
until blood-warm (98 Fahr.), then stir in the yeast and
flour. Beat well, cover, and let stand in a warm place (70
Fahr.) until morning. In the morning, beat the sugar and
yolks together, add them and the cinnamon to the sponge.
478 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Wash and rub the currants, then dry them in a towel, flour
them, then add them and the citron. Work with the hand
until thoroughly mixed. Now add flour until you can take
the dough out on a board. Roll out, cut with a round
cutter, put in greased pans, cover, and set away in a warm
place (72 Fahr.) until very light. Bake in a quick oven
(300 Fahr.) thirty-five minutes.
CINNAMON BUN
2 ounces of butter i teaspoonful of salt
3 eggs i pint of milk
y 2 cup of yeast or half of a compressed cake
Put the milk in a farina boiler to scald. Beat the eggs until
light, pour over them the milk, add the butter, and let
stand until lukewarm ; then add the yeast and salt and
sufficient flour to make a thin batter. Beat thoroughly and
continuously for five minutes ; cover, and stand in a warm
place over night. In the morning, add one cupful of flour,
beat thoroughly, and then add sufficient flour, a little at a
time, working all the while with the hand, to make a soft
dough. Take out on the baking-board and knead lightly
for ten minutes (it must not be as stiff as bread). Put back
into the bowl, cover, and let stand in a warm place until
very light. Then take about one-half of this dough out on
the baking-board, roll it out into a thin sheet, spread
lightly with butter, cover thickly with sugar, sprinkle with
dried currants and cinnamon, and roll tightly in a long
roll. Cut through this roll about each two inches, place the
buns flat, closely together in a greased pan. Roll out the
remaining dough in the same manner, cover, and stand
again in a warm place until very light. Bake in a moder-
ately quick oven for about a half-hour. Turn them out of
the pan while hot.
PLAIN CAKES 479
KRAPFEN
1 pint of bread dough ^ cup of citron, cut fine
2 eggs i cup of sugar
Y? nutmeg, grated ^ teaspoonful of cinnamon
2 ounces of butter
Take the dough at the second kneading and measure it.
Put it into a large bowl with the cinnamon, butter, sugar,
eggs, and nutmeg. Beat with the hand until free from any
strings, then add the fruit well floured, turn it into a greased
pan, cover, and stand in a warm place (72 Fahr.) until
light (this will take about two hours). Bake in a moderate
oven three-quarters of an hour.
FANCY CAKES
In making cake, accuracy in proportioning the ingredients
is indispensable. Success usually follows those who are
attentive to each detail. The baking is usually the most
difficult part. It is useless to attempt to make good, light
cakes unless the eggs are perfectly fresh, and you have
good, sweet butter and fine flour.
HINTS TO BE REMEMBERED
Never beat the but'ter, sugar, or eggs in a tin basin. Use
an earthen bowl and a wooden spoon.
Measure everything carefully before beginning.
Always beat the whites and yolks of eggs separately.
Powdered sugar makes a lighter cake than granulated.
Measure the flour after sifting, unless the recipe says
otherwise.
Use judgment about the thickness of the batter, as
flour differs in thickening qualities. When the cake rises
in the centre, and cracks open, and remains that way, you
may be sure you have used too much flour.
When a recipe calls for a teaspoon ful of baking-pow-
der, you can always use in its place one teaspoonful of
cream of tartar, and a half-teaspoon ful of soda. Sift the
( 4 8o)
FANCY CAKES 481
cream of tartar in the flour ; dissolve the soda in a table-
spoonful of boiling water, and add it to the cake before the
whites of the eggs.
Currants should be cleaned, w/ua^ed and dried, and
then floured before using. Raisins should be seeded and
floured.
Lard is best to grease the cake pans, as butter sticks
and burn easily.
Have the oven ready to receive the cake as soon as it
is mixed. The oven can wait for the cake, but the cake
can never wait for the oven.
Cakes without butter require a quick oven ; with but-
ter, a moderate oven.
Cookies or small cakes require a moderately quick
oven ; molasses cakes, careful watching, in a moderately
quick oven, as they scorch easily.
If your cake browns as soon as you put it in the oven,
the oven is too hot; cool it as quickly as possible by lifting
a lid, and cover the cake with a piece of paper. The cake
will not be so nice, but it is the best you can do.
Never move a cake in the oven until the centre is
thoroughly set.
Do not put anything in the oven while a cake is baking
or it will surely fall.
When you look at the cake while baking, do it as
quickly as possible, and shut the door carefully.
In the recipes the time required for baking is given as
nearly as possible, but never take a cake out unless you are
sure it is done. If you have doubts, run a broom-splint
through the centre, and if no dough adheres, the cake is
done. Or put your ear to the cake, if it ticks loudly, put
it back, it is not done ; if the ticking is very faint, it is
done.
482 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
If the oven is at the proper temperature you can hold
your bare hand in the hottest part, while you slowly count
thirty (about twenty seconds).
It is always v M to line the cake-pans with greased
paper to prevent burning at the bottom, and it will also aid
you in removing the cake.
When the cake is done, turn it out gently on a sieve
or cloth, remove the paper, and allow it to cool. Never
handle while hot.
Use cups of the same size to measure all the materials.
Never melt or warm the butter, but beat it to a cream.
Add to all cakes a quarter-teaspoon ful of salt.
CHOCOLATE CAKE
2 ounces of chocolate ^ cup of butter
4 eggs ij<2 cups of sugar
y 2 cup of milk i heaping teaspoon ful of
i teaspoonful of vanilla baking-powder
i^ cups of flour
Dissolve the chocolate in five tablespoonfuls of boiling
water. Beat the butter to a cream, add gradually the sugar,
beating all the while ; add the yolks, beat again, then the
milk, then the melted chocolate and flour. Give the whole
a vigorous beating. Now beat the whites of the eggs to a
stiff froth, and stir them carefully into the mixture ; add
the vanilla and baking-powder. Mix quickly and lightly,
turn into a greased cake-pan, and bake in a moderate oven
forty-five minutes.
GRAFTON CAKE
i ^ cups of sugar 2 eggs
1 cup of water 3 cups of flour
2 tablespoonfuls (or two i heaping teaspoonful of
ounces) of butter baking-powder
i^ of a nutmeg, grated
Beat the yolks, sugar, and butter together until light, then
FANCY CAKES 483
add the water and half the flour, beat until smooth ; add
the well-beaten whites, and the remainder of the flour, then
the baking-powder and nutmeg. Mix all well together,
and bake in a moderate oven three -quar/^rs of an hour.
CAKE WITHOUT EGGS
i y? cups of sugar i cup of milk
2 cups of flour 2 tablespoonfuls (or two
i teaspoonful of baking- ounces) of butter
powder i teaspoonful of flavoring
Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the milk and
flour, and beat vigorously ; add the salt, flavoring and bak-
ing-powder ; mix well, and bake in a moderate oven about
thirty minutes.
BUTTERMILK CAKE
i cup of butter 2 cups of buttermilk
3 cups of sugar y 2 teaspoonful of soda or
5 cups of flour saleratus
4 eggs
Beat the butter to a cream, then add the sugar and the
yolks of the eggs; beat again until very light. Mash the
soda or saleratus, add it to the buttermilk, stir until dis-
solved, then add to the other mixture. Add the flour, beat
until smooth, then stir in quickly the well-beaten whites.
Bake in a moderate oven about three-quarters of an hour.
INDIAN LOAF CAKE
i pound of Indian meal ^ pound of butter
% pound of raisins % pound of currants
*fa pound of sugar 2 eggs
Cut the butter into the meal, and pour over it sufficient
boiling milk to make a stiff batter. Beat the eggs all
together until very light. When the batter is cool, add the
eggs and sugar. Seed the raisins ; wash, pick and dry the
currants ; mix the fruit and flour them well, stir them into
the batter, and bake in a very slow oven two hours.
484 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
PORK CAKE
i cup of fat pork, i cup of raisins
chopped fine i cup of molasses
i cup of milk y?, teaspoonful of soda or saleratus
4 cups of flour YZ teaspoonful of salt
Seed the raisins and flour them well. Mash the soda, dis-
solve it in a tablespoonful of boiling water, add it to the
molasses, then add the milk, pork and flour; beat thor-
oughly, add the raisins and salt, mix thoroughly, and
bake in a moderate oven one. hour.
DRIED FRUIT CAKE
3 cups of dried apples or 2 cups of molasses
any other dried fruit 2 eggs
24 cup of butter ' i cup of milk
i cup of sugar i teaspoonful of soda
i teaspoonful of cinnamon ^ teaspoonful of cloves
Y-Z nutmeg, grated
Soak the fruit over night in cold water. Then chop it
slightly, and simmer in the molasses for two hours. Beat the
eggs and sugar together until light, then add the butter;
beat again, add the fruit, milk, spices, soda dissolved in a
tablespoonful of boiling water, and sufficient flour to make
a stiff batter that will drop from the spoon. Bake in a very
moderate oven for two hours.
MOLASSES CAKE No. i
1 cup of New Orleans molasses
2 tablespoon fuls of butter, melted
i cup of boiling water
i teaspoonful of soda or saleratus
3 cups of flour
i tablespoonful of ginger
Dissolve the soda or saleratus in a tablespoonful of boiling
water, and add it to the molasses, then add the melted but-
ter, boiling water, ginger and flour. Beat until smooth,
and bake in a moderate oven about thirty minutes.
FANCY CAKES 485
MOLASSES CAKE No. 2
y& cup of New Orleans molasses ^ cup of brown sugar
y^, cup of sour cream i egg
Butter the size of an egg (2 i teaspoonful of soda or
ounces) saleratus
2 cups of flour
Dissolve the soda or saleratus in a tablespoonful of boiling
water, and add it to the molasses. Beat the egg and sugar
together until light, then add the molasses, cream and flour ;
beat until smooth ; and, if you like, add a tablespoonful of
ginger or a teaspoonful of cinnamon. Bake in a shallow
pan in a moderate oven for about thirty minutes.
SOFT GINGERBREAD
3 cups of flour i y z cups of New Orleans molasses
y<2. cup of milk i teaspoonful of soda
y^ cup of lard 2 eggs
i tablespoonful of ginger
Beat the yolks of the eggs and the lard together ; then add
the milk, soda and molasses; add the ginger and flour.
Beat the whites to a stiff froth, add them carefully. Bake
in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour.
GINGERBREAD
y* pound of butter i pint of New Orleans molasses
y> pound of sugar 2 tablespoonfuls of ginger
3 pints of flour i teaspoonful of cinnamon
6 eggs i pint of milk
i teaspoonful of soda
Beat the butter to a cream ; then add the sugar. Beat the
eggs all together until creamy, add them to the butter and
sugar, and beat well. Dissolve the soda in a tablespoonful
of boiling water, add it to the molasses, mix well, and stir
it into the other mixture ; add to it the milk and flour.
Beat all until smooth ; then add the spices, mix well, and
pour into well-greased, shallow pans. Bake in a moderate
oven thirty-five or forty minutes.
486 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
SPICE CAKE
i cup of brown sugar i tablespoonful of cinnamon
y& cup of molasses i cup of thick, sour cream
i teaspoonful of soda i tablespoonful of allspice
3}^ cups of flour i pound of raisins
Seed and chop the raisins. Dissolve the soda in a table-
spoonful of boiling water, add it to the molasses ; then add
the cream, sugar and flour ; beat thoroughly, add the spices
and the raisins well floured. Bake in a moderate oven for
one hour.
This is very good.
HICKORY-NUT CAKE
1/1 cup of butter i^ cups of sugar
2 cups of flour ^ cup of water
Whites of four eggs i cup of hickory-nut kernels
i teaspoonful of baking-powder
Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, then add the water
and flour, stir until smooth ; add half the well-beaten whites,
then the nuts, then the remainder of the whites and the
baking-powder. Pour into square, flat pans lined with
buttered paper to the depth of three inches, and bake in a
moderate oven for forty-five minutes.
CUP or i, 2, 3, 4 CAKE
1 cup of butter 3 cups of flour
2 cups of sugar 4 eggs
Mix and bake the same as Pound Cake.
PLAIN CUP CAKE
^ cup of butter 3 cups of flour
i ^ cups of sugar Juice and rind of a lemon
i cup of water or milk 4 eggs
2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder
Beat the butter, sugar and yolks of the eggs together until
light ; then add the water or milk, and half the flour, and
beat until smooth ; then add the well-beaten whites, then
FANCY CAKES 487
the remainder of the flour, then the juice and rind of the
lemon and the baking-powder. Mix thoroughly and bake
in a greased Turk's-head, in a moderate oven, about three-
quarters of an hour.
COCOANUT LOAF CAKE
]/ pound of butter 5 eggs
i pound of sugar 2 cups of grated cocoanut
y<2 pound of flour i cup of milk
Juice and rind of a lemon
Beat the yolks, sugar and butter together until very light ;
then add the milk, mix, add the flour and lemon, and beat
well ; then add the cocoanut. Beat the whites of the eggs
to a stiff froth, and stir them and the baking-powder care-
fully into the cake. Pour into two square, flat pans, dust
thickly with powdered sugar, and bake in a moderate oven
three-quarters of an hour.
MARBLE CAKE
THE LIGHT
i y>2 cups of sugar 2 large cups of flour
YI cup of butter Whites of four eggs
y<z cup of water i teaspoonful of baking-powder
Juice and rind of a lemon
Beat the butter to a cream, add gradually the sugar, then
add the water, then half the flour, a pinch of salt ; add the
whites, well beaten, then the remainder of the flour, the
juice and rind of the lemon, and stand aside while you make
THE DARK
i cup of brown sugar i teaspoonful of baking-powder
y cup of butter 2 ounces o{j> melted chocolate
y<z cup of water Yolks of four eggs
i y> cups of flour i teaspoonful of vanilla
Beat the butter, sugar and yolks together until very light;
then add the water and flour ; beat until smooth ; then
488 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
add the melted chocolate and vanilla, mix well, and add
the baking-powder to both mixtures. Grease a cake-pan,
put in a layer of the white mixture, then a layer of dark,
and so continue these alternations until all is used. Bake
in a moderate oven from three-quarters of an hour to an
hour. If the oven is too hot, cover with paper to prevent
scorching.
SPONGE CAKE
6 eggs
Weight of the eggs in sugar
Half the weight of the eggs in flour
Juice and rind of one lemon
After weighing the sugar and flour, separate the eggs. Beat
the yolks and sugar together until very light. Now add the
juice and rind of the lemon and half the flour. 'Beat the
whites to a very stiff froth, add half of them to the cake,
then the remaining half of the flour, and then the remain-
ing half of the whites; stir lightly, and pour into a greased
cake-pan. Bake in a quick oven forty-five minutes.
ANGEL FOOD
Whites of eleven eggs i^ cups of granulated sugar
i teaspoonful of flavoring i cup of sifted flour
i teaspoonful of cream of tartar
Put the cream of tartar into the sifted flour, and sift it five
times. Sift the sugar. Beat the whites of the eggs to a
very stiff froth, add the sugar, and mix carefully ; then add
the flour gradually, stirring all the while, and, last, the
flavoring. Turn quickly into an ungreased pan, and bake
in a moderate oven (say, 260 Fahr.) for forty-five minutes.
Take from the oven, turn the pan upside down on a rest,
and let it stand until the cake falls out.
It is best to bake this in a Turk's-head. You can then
then rest it on the tube.
FANCY CAKES 489
SUNSHINE CAKE
Whites of eleven eggs i cup of unsifted flour
ii^ cups of sugar i teaspoonful of vanilla
Yolks of three eggs i teaspoonful of cream of tartar
Put the cream of tartar into the flour, and sift it. Beat the
whites to a very stiff froth ; beat the yolks and add them to
the whites, add the sugar carefully, then the flavoring, and,
last, the flour ; mix thoroughly but lightly and quickly,
turn into an ungreased pan, and bake in a moderate oven
forty-five minutes. When done, turn it upside down on a
rest, and the cake will fall out itself. It is best to bake
Sunshine Cake in a tin Turk's-head, the centre tube being
longer than the sides, so that when it is turned over it rests
on the tube, thus allowing the air to pass around the cake.
POUND CAKE
i pound of butter i pound of powdered sugar
10 eggs i pound of flour
i gill of brandy ^ teaspoonful of mace
Beat the butter to a cream, add gradually the sugar, beating
all the while. Beat the eggs, without separating, until
very, very light, add them gradually to the butter and
sugar, and beat the whole vigorously. Add the flour sifted ;
beat well, add the mace and brandy. Line a round cake-
pan with buttered paper, pour in the cake, and bake in a
moderate oven one and a quarter hours.
LADY CAKE
y pound of bitter almonds ^ pound of butter
i pound of powdered sugar 10 ounces of flour
Whites of seventeen eggs.
Blanch and pound the almonds to a smooth paste, adding
a few drops of rose-water to prevent them from oiling.
Beat the butter to a cream, then gradually add the sugar,
beating all the while. Add the pounded almonds, and
490 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
beat vigorously until very, very light. Sift the flour, beat
the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and then stir into
the butter and sugar alternately the flour and the whites of
the eggs, a little at a time. Beat the whole as hard as pos-
sible, turn into a greased pan, and bake in a moderate
oven about one hour. When cold, ice with Lemon Icing.
FRUIT CAKE No. i
10 eggs i nutmeg
i pound of sugar i teaspoonful of allspice
i pound of butter y? teaspoonful of cloves
i y?, pounds of currants i teaspoonful of cinnamon
i^ pounds of raisins ^ teaspoonful of mace
y^ pound of citron Juice and rind of one orange
i pound of flour Juice and rind of one lemon
Beat the eggs all together until very light. Beat the butter
to a cream, add the sugar, beat again ; add the eggs, then
the flour and spices, and give the whole a good, vigorous beat-
ing. Stem and seed the raisins ; clean, wash, and dry the
currants ; cut the citron into shreds ; mix the fruit, and
flour it well, then add it to the cake ; add the juice and
rind of the orange and lemon ; stir all well together. Line
two round cake-pans with greased paper, pour in the mix-
ture, and bake in a very moderate oven four hours.
This will make two four-pound cakes.
If you use liquor, add, before the fruit, one gill of
brandy.
FRUIT CAKE No. 2
y? pound of butter
y 2 pound of pulverized sugar
8 eggs ,
YZ pound of sifted flour
Y^ pound of raisins
Y^ pound of sultanas
% pound of citron
FANCY CAKES 491
y pound of candied or preserved cherries
j% pound of candied or preserved gages
% pound of candied or preserved apricots
Y^ pound of candied or preserved pineapple
Y^ pound of candied orange and lemon peel
i nutmeg, grated
% ounce of mace
% ounce of cinnamon
^B ounce of cloves
y^ gill of Jamaica rum
y, gill of brandy
Stem and seed the raisins. Pick over the sultanas. Shred
the orange and lemon peel and ciUon very fine. Cut all
the remaining fruit into tiny dice. Beat the butter to a
cream, add the sugar gradually, and give a thorough beat-
ing. Beat the eggs without separating until creamy ; add
them to the butter and sugar, then gradually add the flour ;
beat well. Mix all the fruit together, and flour it well.
Add the spices to the batter; add the fruit ; mix thoroughly;
add the rum and brandy ; mix again. Line a round, straight-
sided cake-pan with buttered paper, turn in the mixture,
and bake in a very slow oven four and a half hours. When
done, take it from the pan and let it stand over night to
cool. Next day, mix one pint of champagne, a half-pint
of the best brandy, and one gill of strawberry syrup to-
gether. Stand the cake in a stone butter-pot, a little larger
than the cake, pour over the brandy mixture, paste the top
of the pot over with paper, put on the cover, and stand in
a cool place one month. At the end of that time, remove
the paper, turn the cake, paste the top over again with
paper, put on" the lid, and let stand another month, and it
is ready for use.
This cake is troublesome, but well repays one for the
trouble.
This will make a seven-pound cake.
492 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
COFFEE FRUIT CAKE
i cup of butter i cup of molasses
1 cup of brown sugar 3 cups of flour
2 pounds of raisins ^ pound of currants
Y^ pound of citron 3 large teaspoonfuls of
i large teaspoonful of cloves cinnamon
i large teaspoonful of i large teaspoonful of
allspice grated nutmeg
i egg i teaspoonful of baking-
Y^ pint of warm black coffee soda
Prepare and make the same as Fruit Cake, No. i.
LAYER CAKE
Y^ pound of butter ^ pound of sugar
5 eggs 2 ounces of corn-starch
6 ounces of flour i teaspoonful of vanilla
^ teaspoonful of mace 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry
i teaspoon fui of baking-powder
Beat the butter to a cream; add the sugar gradually, beating
all the while, then add the yolks of the eggs, then the well-
beaten whites, then the flour, corn-starch and baking-
powder ; beat well ; add the flavorings, mix well. Grease
three deep jelly-tins, pour in the cake, and bake in a mod-
erately quick oven fifteen minutes. When done, remove
carefully from the pans, and stand them on a towel for a
few minutes to cool.
APRICOT LAYER CAKE
Make the cake as directed in preceding recipe.
Pare the apricots, cut them in thin slices. Beat the
whites of two eggs lightly, add, gradually, four tablespoon-
fuls of powdered sugar, and then beat vigorously until
stiff enough to stand alone. Put a layer of this over the
top of one cake, then a layer of sliced apricots, stand
another cake on top of this. Put the remainder of the
white filling over the top of this cake, then another layer
FANCY CAKES 493
of apricots. Now place the remaining cake on top of this,
press down lightly, dust the top over with powdered sugar,
and it is ready for use.
Preserved or canned apricots may be used in the place
of fresh fruit.
CHOCOLATE LAYER CAKE
Make Layer Cake (see recipe). Put four ounces of choco-
late into a bowl, and stand it over boiling water until
melted. Beat the whites of two eggs until frothy; add,
gradually, four tablespoon fuls of powdered sugar, and beat
until stiff enough to stand alone ; then add the chocolate
gradually, beating all the while. Add a teaspoon ful of
vanilla. Put one-half of the mixture over the top of one
cake, stand another cake on top of this, then the re-
mainder of the chocolate filling on the top of that, and
then the remaining cake on top the filling; cover' this with
Chocolate Icing, and it is ready for use.
COCOANUT LAYER CAKE
Make Layer Cake (see recipe). Beat the whites of two
eggs until frothy, then add gradually four tablespoon fuls of
powdered sugar, and beat until stiff. Spread a layer of this
over the top of one cake, then sprinkle heavily with grated
cocoanut, then put another cake on the top of this, spread
this the same as before, then put another cake on top, and
cover the top the same, sprinkling heavily with grated
cocoanut, and it is ready for use.
ICE CREAM CAKE
Make Layer Cake, and fill with the whites of two eggs
and four tablespoon fuls of powdered sugar beaten to a
stiff froth, flavoring according to taste.
494 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
JELLY LAYER CAKE
Make a Layer Cake; while hot, spread with any kind of
tart jelly.
PEACH LAYER CAKE
Made precisely the same as Apricot Layer Cake.
RASPBERRY LAYER CAKE
Make the same as Apricot Layer Cake, using large red rasp-
berries instead of apricots.
Strawberry Layer Cake is made in the same manner.
WHITE MOUNTAIN CAKE
1 1 ounces of powdered sugar 6 ounces of butter
5 eggs y^ pint of milk
i gill of sherry ^ teaspoonful of powdered
3 heaping teaspoonfuls of mace
baking-powder 3 ounces of corn-starch
YV pound of flour Juice and the rind of a
i teaspoonful of vanilla lemon
Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, then add the yolks,
and beat the whole until very, very light; add the vanilla,
lemon and mace. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, add
them and the milk gradually and alternately to the batter.
Sift the corn-starch, baking-powder, and flour together, and
add gradually to the mixture, beating thoroughly and
quickly all the while; then pour into greased jelly-tins,
and bake in a quick oven ten or fifteen minutes.
THE FILLING
Whites of two eggs ^ pound of powdered sugar
i teaspoonful of vanilla i gill of water
Boil the sugar and water together until it forms a heavy
thread when dropped from a spoon. Beat the whites of
the eggs until very stiff, then stir in at once, gradually, the
FANCY CAKES 495
boiling syrup, beating quickly all the while. Beat until
cold and thick; add the vanilla. When the cakes are done
and cold, spread a layer of the filling on the top of one
cake, place another cake on top of it, then another layer
of the filling, then another layer of cake; now spread
this with the remainder of the filling, and put the remain-
ing cake on top; dust with powdered sugar, and it is ready
for use.
RIBBON CAKE
y 2 cup of butter
2 cups of sugar
4 eggs
i tablespoonful of baking-powder
i cup of washed currants
i cup of milk
3 cups of flour
i teaspoonful of vanilla
i tablespoonful of cinnamon
i^ cup of chopped citron
Beat the butter to a cream ; add the sugar and then the
yolks, and beat thoroughly. Now add flavoring and milk,
then the flour. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and stir
them carefully into the other ingredients; add the baking-
powder, and stir just enough to mix. Now take out one-
third of the mixture, and add to it the cinnamon, currants,
and chopped citron. Grease three sheet pans of the same
size, put the fruit mixture into one, and the remaining two-
thirds in the other two pans. Bake in a moderate oven for
a half-hour. When done, take from the pans. Spread one
light cake with a layer of soft icing, then place the dark
cake on this, and spread it with icing, then place the other
light cake on this, cover the whole with a piece of paper,
and then with a tin sheet, on which place two light weights.
Let stand one hour, and then remove the weights.
496 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
CREAM SPONGE CAKE
6 eggs
Their weight in sugar, and half their weight in flour
Put the eggs on one side of the scale and balance with the
sugar. Turn the sugar into a bowl, remove three eggs and
balance the remaining three with flour. Now break and
separate the eggs carefully. Beat the yolks and sugar until
very, very light, then add the whites, which have been
beaten to a stiff froth, mix carefully, and slowly sift in
the flour. Put a quarter-teaspoon ful of baking-soda into a
tablespoonful of vinegar, stir until dissolved, and stir
quickly into the cake. Mix thoroughly and carefully, turn
into a well-greased large shallow pan, and bake in a quick
oven fifteen minutes. Have ready
THE FILLING
YZ pint of milk
i^ tablespoon mis of corn-starch
2 tablespoon fuls of sugar
Grated rind of half an orange
2 tablespoonfuls of orange juice
Yolks of 3 eggs
Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the corn-
starch, sugar, and eggs together until light, then stir into the
boiling milk, and stir until it thickens; take from the fire,
and add the juice and rind of the orange. Stand away to
cool. This should be made before the cake. When the
cake is done, turn it carefully from the pan, bottom up-
wards, and spread it, while warm, with the filling. Cut
the cake in halves, and fold the bottoms together, thus
having two layers of cake with a thick layer of filling be-
tween. Cover the top with Orange Icing.
APEES (Ice Cream and Cakes)
i pound of butter i pound of sugar
i^ pounds of flour i gill of milk
Cream the butter and sugar ; sift in the flour, then the milk,
FAXCY CAKES 4<)7
and stir it to a dough ; trim it out on the moulding-board,
and work to a fine dough again. Roll into sheets, as thick
as a dollar piece, cut into small cakes, lay them on tins,
and bake in a cool oven.
PLAIN COOKIES
i cup of sugar i teaspoon ful of baking-
y<z nutmeg, grated powder
y<2, pint of milk Sufficient flour to make a
YZ cup of butter dough
2 eggs
Beat the butter to a cream; add the sugar and beat again.
Beat the eggs all together until light, add them to the but-
ter and sugar ; add the milk, nutmeg, baking-powder, and
flour; mix well. Roll out, cut with a round cutter, and
bake in a moderate oven until a light brown.
GINGER COOKIES (Miss Shourds)
i cup of molasses
i cup of strong boiling coffee
i tablespoonful of ginger
i cup of brown sugar
1/2 cup of lard
Y<2, cup of butter
i teaspoonful of cinnamon
i teaspoonful of baking-soda
Mix the butter and lard together. Dissolve the soda in a
tablespoonful of boiling water, then stir it into the molas-
ses, which add to the butter and lard; ad-1 the spices, and
mix all well together. Pour over the boiling coffee, and
add sufficient flour to make a soft dough. Then roll out
about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, cut with a
round cutter, and bake in a moderately quick oven about
fifteen minutes.
498 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
JUMBLES No. i
j^ pound of butter y, pound of powdered sugar
9 ounces of flour 2 tablespoon fuls of sherry
i teaspoonful of vanilla 3 eggs
Beat the butter to a cream ; add the sugar gradually, beat-
ing until very light. Now beat the eggs all together, add
to the butter and sugar, add the sherry, the vanilla, and last,
the flour, sifted. Beat the whole well. Put the mixture into
a pastry-bag, and press it through the tube in small round
cakes on the bottom of a baking-pan lightly greased. If
you have no pastry-bag, you may drop by spoonfuls. Bake
in a moderate oven until the edges are a delicate brown.
JUMBLES No. 2
y<z pound of butter y z pound of sugar
eggs y^ pound of flour
nutmeg, grated i tablespoonful of rose-water
Beat the butter and sugar to a cream ; add the eggs well-
beaten, then the rose-water and nutmeg, then the flour.
Dust the baking-board with granulated sugar, instead of
flour ; roll out the mixture, about an eighth of an inch in
thickness^ cut with a round cutter ; take the centres out with
a smaller cutter, thus forming rings. Bake in a moderate
oven until a light brown.
SAND TARTS
i pound of granulated sugar y 2 pound of butter
Yolks of three eggs Whites of two eggs
Flour enough to make a stiff paste
Beat the butter and sugar together ; add the yolks beaten
to a cream, then the whites well beaten; mix all well to-
gether, and add the flour. Roll out on a baking-board,
cut with a round cutter, and bake in a moderate oven until
a light brown.
FANCY CAKES 499
LEMON WAFERS
*^ pound of butter Juice and rind of two lemons
*2 pound of powdered sugar Flour sufficient to make a
i nutmeg, grated stiff batter
6 eggs
Beat the butter to a cream ; add the sugar gradually. Beat
the eggs, without separating, until creamy, then add them to
the butter and sugar; beat well; then add the juice and
rind of the lemon, the nutmeg and the flour. Beat all
until smooth and light. Heat the wafer tongs over a clear
fire, brush them lightly with melted butter, put in two
tablespoon fuls of the mixture, close the tongs, turn them
over a clear fire until the cake is a light brown. When
done, take out carefully, dust with powdered sugar, and
roll around a smooth stick, which remove carefully when
cold. If you have no tongs, line fiat pans with buttered
paper, and drop the mixture in by spoonfuls ; spread it out
very thin, and bake until a light brown. These may be
filled with whipped cream or meringue, or served without
either.
SHREWSBURY CAKES
i pound of butter i pound of sugar
4 eggs y^ pound dried currants
i nutmeg, grated 114 pounds of flour
Beat the butter to a cream ; add the sugar gradually, then
the flour and nutmeg, then the currants, washed and dried.
Now moisten with the eggs well beaten. If the flour is
very heavy and the mixture very dry, add another egg,
knead well, roll the paste out very thin, cut with a round
cutter about the size of a saucer, and pinch the cakes with
the thumb and finger around the edge. This gives them
a scalloped form. Bake in a moderate oven until a nice
brown.
500 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
SCOTCH CAKES
i pound of flour i pound of sugar
y^ pound of butter 3 eggs
i tablespoon ful of cinnamon
Mix the flour and butter, and rub well with the hands, then
add the sugar, then the eggs well beaten, then the cinnamon.
Mix all well together, roll out into a thin sheet, cut with a
large round cutter, and bake in a moderate oven until a
light brown.
JACKSON SNAPS
1 cup of butter 5 cups of flour
2 cups of sugar i cup of water
1 egg Juice and rind of a lemon
Beat the butter to a cream, add the sugar gradually ; then
add the egg and water ; beat again, then add the flour ;
mix well, roll out, cut with a round cutter, and bake in a
moderate oven until a light brown.
These, like ginger cakes, will keep a long while if shut
in a tin box.
GINGER SNAPS
2 pounds of flour i large tablespoonful of ginger
i pint of molasses ^ pound jof brown sugar
A dash of cayenne y 2 pound of butter or lard
Rub the butter or lard thoroughly into the flour, then add the
sugar, then the ginger and cayenne; mix well, and moisten
with the molasses. Knead and roll out very thin, cut with
a small, round cutter, and bake in a moderate oven until
a light brown.
These are very dry and hard to roll, but, if carefully
mixed and handled, are delicious.
DOMINOES
Make Plain Cup Cake batter, and pour it into greased
shallow pans, to the depth of a half-inch. Bake in a
FANCY CAKES 501
moderate oven about ten minutes. When done, turn out
on a cloth to cool. When cold, with a sharp knife cut the
cake in oblong pieces, the shape of a domino, frost the top
and sides with white icing, and stand aside to harden.
When the frosting is hard, dip a small camel' s-hair brush
in chocolate icing, and draw lines and make the dots of
the domino.
*%
CREAM PUFFS
y, pint of water 2 ounces of butter
4 ounces of flour 4 eggs
Put the water and butter on to boil, and, as soon as it boils,
turn in the flour and stir quickly over the fire until it sticks
together, forming a ball, which leaves the pan. Stand
away to cool. When cool, add one egg at a time, beating
all the while. After adding the last egg, beat vigorously
for five minutes. Stand in a warm place for a half-hour,
stirring occasionally ; then drop by tablespoon fuls on but-
tered tins, leaving a space of two inches between each puff.
Bake in a quick oven about twenty minutes. Try by
picking them up. If perfectly light, they are done. As
they burn quickly, watch carefully. When cold, make an
opening in one side, about the middle of the puff, and fill
with the following :
THE FILLING
y<2, pint of milk i tablespoonful of corn-starch
4 eggs 4 tablespoon fuls of sugar
i teaspoonful of vanilla
Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the eggs,
without separating, and the sugar together until light, add
to them the corn-starch, and stir into the boiling milk.
Stir over the fire until rather thick, then add the vanilla,
and stand away to cool.
502 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS
Prepare the batter the same as for Cream Puffs. Put it into
a pastry-bag, and press it out upon well-buttered tins. By
pressing the bag firmly, and drawing it very slowly towards
you while squeezing, you will make the eclairs of a rope-
like shape. They should be about five inches long. Allow
two inches space between each eclair. Bake in a quick
oven twenty n^nutes, or until thoroughly done. If prop-
erly baked, the inside will be hollow, with a delicate, tender
crust outside. When cold, fill with the same Cream Puff
Filling.
THE ICING
Melt two ounces of chocolate, then add four tablespoon fuls
of powdered sugar, and stir until it forms a paste. Dip
the bottom of each eclair into the icing, and stand it away
to dry.
Eclairs may be filled with whipped cream or preserved
fruits, and iced with Orange Icing.
KISSES
Whites of six eggs
12 ounces of powdered sugar
i tablespoonful of vanilla-sugar
Beat the whites with a wire egg-whip until frothy, then add
gradually, the sugar, beating continuously until the whites
are stiff enough to cut with a knife. Dip a tablespoon into
cold water, fill it with the mixture, and drop it on a sheet
of buttered paper. Place the paper on baking-tins, sift
quickly and lightly with powdered sugar, blow off all that
will not stick, and put immediately into a quick oven.
Watch constantly that they do not burn. When firm to
the touch, take them from the oven, remove them carefully
from the paper, scoop out the soft portion and return the
shells to a very slow oven to dry. These may be filled with
whipped cream or ice cream, and two put together.
FANCY CAKES 503
The dry shells will keep some time and may be filled
when ready to use.
Or, drop the mixture by small spoonfuls on buttered
paper, dust with sugar, blow off all that does not stick,
place the paper on baking-sheets, put in a quick 'oven until
a light fawn-color ; then place them in a cool oven for two
hours to dry. When dry, carefully remove the kisses from
the paper, brush the bottom lightly with^Jie white of egg,
stick two together, and put away to. dry.
LADY FINGERS
Make Sponge Cake batter, turn it into a pastry-bag with a
No. i tube in the end, and squeeze it out the shape of lady
fingers. Dredge with powdered sugar, and put in a very
moderate oven to bake. They must not spread or swell.
If they spread, the oven is too cool ; if they swell, the
oven is too hot. When done, remove them carefully from
the pan, put the two flat sides together, and lay them on a
sieve to cool.
There are pans indented the shape of lady fingers,
which are less troublesome than using the pastry-bag.
PLUNKETS
4 eggs
Weight of eggs in powdered sugar
Weight of eggs in butter
Weight of eggs in rice flour
i teaspoonful of vanilla, or juice and rind of one lemon
Beat the butter to a cream, then add the sugar gradually,
beating all the while ; then add the yolks of the eggs, beat
again, then add the whites beaten to a stiff froth, then,
gradually, the rice flour. Add a teaspoonful of vanilla, or
the juice and rind of a lemon. Now beat until fine and
light, pour into greased small scalloped tins (patty-pans)
and bake in a moderate oven about twenty minutes.
504 PHILADELPHIA COOK ROOK
ICINGS OR FROSTINGS
PLAIN ICING
Whites of two eggs
i teaspoonful of lemon juice
YZ pound of powdered sugar
Place the eggs in a refrigerator or some very cold place one
hour before using. Break them carefully and beat the
whites until frotfTy, then sift the sugar in gradually, beating
all the while; add the lemon juice, and continue the beat-
ing until the icing is fine and white, and stiff enough to
stand alone. Keep in a cool place until wanted. Spread
with a knife dipped in ice-water. If ornaments are used,
they must be placed on the cake while the ice is still moist.
This may be varied by adding different flavorings, such as
strawberry, pineapple, rose, vanilla, etc.
Strawberry icing should always be colored with a few
drops of cochineal.
CHOCOLATE ICING
^ pound of grated chocolate
% pound of powdered sugar
Melt $he chocolate over boiling water, add the sugar, and
stir until smooth. Add a teaspoonful of vanilla, and it is
ready to use.
ORANGE ICING
YI pound of powdered sugar
i tablespoonful of boiling water
Grated rind of one orange
Sufficient orange juice to moisten
Put the sugar in a bowl, add the rind and then the water
and juice. The icing should be very stiff, and used imme-
diately.
FANCY CAKES 505
BOILED ICING
i cup of granulated sugar ^ teaspoonful of cream of
White of one egg tartar
y<2. cup of boiling water
Boil the sugar and water together until it spins a heavy
thread. Beat the egg to a stiff froth ; add the cream of
tartar, and then the syrup, beating all the while. Beat
until cold and thick. Flavor.
GELATINE ICING
Put one even tablespoon ful of gelatine into a bowl, cover
it with one tablespoonful of cold water, let it soak half an
hour ; then add two tablespoon fuls of boiling water, stir
until dissolved, then add pulverized sugar to make the mix-
ture a proper consistency to spread. Flavor to taste. Let
the cake cool, spread the icing quickly over it, and stand
in a cool place to dry.
506 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
ADDITIONAL RECIPES 507
508 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
CANDIES
CHOCOLATE CARAMELS No. I
Y^ pound of chocolate i pound of brown sugar
2 tablespoon fu Is of molasses Butter the size of an egg
y& cup of milk i teaspoonful of vanilla
Put the whole into a granite or copper saucepan ; let it heat
slowly, and stir until thoroughly dissolved. Then boil
until it hardens. Try by dropping a few drops in a cup of
cold water ; if it hardens quickly, it is done. Turn into
a greased square pan, and, when partly cool, mark into
squares with a dull knife. Stand in a cool, dry place to
harden.
CHOCOLATE CARAMELS No. 2 (Mrs. Mustin)
1^2 pounds of sugar (confectioners' A)
3 ounces of chocolate
Y^ pint of cream
YZ teaspoonful of lemon -juice
Make and finish the same as in preceding recipe.
TAFFY
l / 2 pint of water ^ teaspoonful of lemon-juice
3 ounces of butter 2 teaspoon fuls of vanilla
i l /z pounds of sugar (confectioners' A)
Stir the water and sugar over the fire until the sugar is dis-
solved, then boil until it arrives at the ball stage ; that is,
(509)
510 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
when small quantity is cooled in water and rolled between
the thumb and finger, it forms a soft ball. Now add the
butter and lemon juice and boil to the "crack," that is, it
hardens quickly when dropped into cold water, and will
not stick to the teeth. Add the vanilla, and turn out in
greased shallow pans to cool.
MOLASSES CANDY
i cup of New Orleans molasses i cup of brown sugar
i tablespoonful of vinegar i ounce of melted butter
Mix all together, and boil without stirring until it hardens
when dropped in cold water ; then add a teaspoonful of
baking soda, and pour into buttered tins.
Or, when cool, pull and cut into sticks. While pull-
ing, brush the hands with butter or moisten them with ice-
water.
WALNUT MOLASSES CANDY
Make a plain molasses candy, and, when done, grease deep
square pans with butter, fill nearly full with walnut kernels,
pour the molasses candy over them, and stand away to cool.
PEANUT MOLASSES CANDY
Peanut Molasses Candy is made precisely the same as Wal-
nut Molasses Candy.
CREAM CANDY
i pound of granulated sugar
i tablespoonful of gum-aratfic water
YZ teaspoonful of cream of tartar
i cup of water
i teaspoonful of vanilla
Mix all the ingredients except the vanilla, and stir over the
fire until the sugar is dissolved ; then boil without stirring
until it hardens when dropped in cold water. It must not
be brittle. When done, turn out on a greased plate or
CAND-IES 511
marble slab ; pour over it the vanilla ; when nearly cold,
begin to pull, and pull continuously until it is perfectly
white. Cut it into sticks or pieces as soon as you are done
pulling, or it may be braided ; then put it in a tureen, cover
and let stand two hours, and it is ready to use.
ROSE CREAM CANDY
Make same as preceding recipe, add a half-teaspoon ful of
cochineal, and a teaspoonful of rose water instead of the
vanilla.
CREAM CHOCOLATES
Put the white of one egg and an equal quantity of cold
water into a bowl ; add a teaspoonful of vanilla, and beat
until frothy ; add sufficient confectioners' xxx sugar to
make a stiff paste that you can form into balls (this will
take about a pound and a quarter). Work until smooth,
form into small balls the size of a cream chocolate,
stand on greased paper, and put in a cool, dry place to
harden (about two hours). Put a half-pound of chocolate
into a small, bright, tin basin, and stand it over the tea-
kettle or boiling water to melt, then stand it in a basin of
boiling water to prevent its cooling while you dip the
creams. Place one ball on the end of a fork, dip it down
into the melted chocolate, see that it is thoroughly covered,
lift it up, drain, scrape off the fork on the side of the basin,
then slide the cream chocolate back on the greased paper,
and so continue until all are dipped. Stand in a cool place
over night, and they are ready to use.
These are very little trouble, and, if made carefully,
are delicious.
CREAM DATES
Remove the stones from the large dates, make the cream as
directed in preceding recipe. Roll a tiny bit into a long
512 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
roll, put it in the date where you removed the stone, press
the two halves together, so that the white cream will show
between. Roll the whole in granulated sugar, and stand
away to harden.
CREAM CHERRIES
Make precisely the same as Cream Dates.
NOUGAT No. i (Blot)
Throw a pound of sweet almonds into boiling water for
five minutes ; skin them well ; and, when cool, cut them in
four or five pieces lengthwise ; then melt a pound of fine
white sugar with two tablespoon fuls of water, in a copper
or crockery pot, on a good fire, stirring all the time with a
wooden spoon. When well melted, put the almonds in ;
keep stirring about five minutes longer, take from the fire,
add a little of the rind of a lemon well grated. Oil a
plain mould, put it on the corner of the range in a warm
but not too hot place ; put the almonds and sugar in the
mould, pressing them to the side and bottom of the mould
with a lemon cut in halves, and take off when of a brown
color. Turn on a plate, remove the mould, and serve.
NOUGAT No. 2
Grease a square, shallow pan well with butter. Fill with
hickory-nut kernels, Brazilian nuts cut in slices, almonds,
cocoanut cut in thin strips, dates and a few bits of candied
orange peel. Boil two pounds of sugar and one cup of
water together without stirring (after the sugar melts) until
it hardens and becomes brittle when dropped in cold water;
then add a tablespoonful of lemon juice, and pour into the
pans over the filling. When nearly cold, mark out in nar-
row strips with a knife.
FRUITS
Fruit should be served as fresh as possible, the large fruits
cold. The small acid fruits are rendered more acid by
being chilled. Fresh, ripe fruit is particularly wholesome
if taken in the early part of the day. Liebig says :
"Besides contributing a large proportion of sugar, mucil-
age, and other nutritive compounds in the form of food,
they contain such a fine combination of vegetable acids,
attractive substances, and aromatic principles, with the
nutritive matter, as to act powerfully in the capacity of
refrigerants, tonics, and antiseptics, and when freely used
at the season of ripeness, by rural laborers and others, they
prevent debility, strengthen digestion, correct the putrefac-
tive tendency of nitrogenous food, avert scurvy, and prob-
ably maintain and strengthen the power of productive
labor."
APPLES
For the table, select those of a spicy flavor ; wipe them
clean and polish with a soft towel. Serve in a fruit dish or
a small, pretty basket. Use only a silver knife in cutting.
BANANAS
Bananas should be served whole, the large, red and lady
fingers mixed,
(513)
514 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
CURRANTS
The large cherry and the white currants may be served
together. Select large clusters, rinse them by dipping in
and out of cold water, then place on a sieve to drain. Ar-
range them on a pretty dish, and serve in saucers around a
small pyramid of powdered sugar. Take the stem between
the thumb and finger, dip the fruit lightly in the powdered
sugar, and eat from the stem.
They may also be stemmed and mixed with an equal
quantity of raspberries.
GRAPES
Grapes should be rinsed in cold water, drained on a sieve,
and then arranged in a pretty basket; fruit scissors should
accompany the basket, to divide the clusters.
ORANGES
Oranges may be served whole, cut in halves crosswise, and
eaten with a spoon.
Or, peeled, cut in small pieces, rejecting the seeds.
Sprinkle with powdered sugar, let stand an hour, and serve.
PEACHES
Pick out the finest, large, yellow peaches. Rub the wool
off carefully, handling as little as possible. Serve in a
pretty basket with peach or rose leaves around the basket.
Or, pare and slice, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and
serve immediately (or they will turn dark), with thick
cream.
PEARS
Pears may be served the same as Apples.
PINEAPPLE
Pare, remove the eyes, and pick the pineapple in small
pieces with a silver fork, stripping it from the core. Never
FRUITS 515
use a knife to cut the pineapple as it destroys the flavor.
Sprinkle with powdered sugar. Stand in a cold place one
hour before serving.
POMEGRANATES
Remove the outside skin and carefully take out the seeds,
rejecting every particle of the thin brown skin that separates
the sections. Heap the seeds on a pretty dish, mix with
them finely-chopped ice, and serve.
STRAWBERRIES, RASPBERRIES and BLACKBERRIES
Pick them carefully, without mashing, only a few moments
before you wish to serve them. Heap them in a glass dish,
and send around powdered sugar and cream with them.
Allow each guest to sugar his own.
Never wash any kind of berries, as it destroys their
flavor.
Strawberries for breakfast may be served with their
stems on, the same as Currants.
WATERMELON
A watermelon should be thoroughly chilled before serving;
then cut it into halves. Cut a thin slice off each end to
make it stand firmly on the platter. Scoop out in egg-
shaped pieces with a tablespoon, and serve.
CANTALOUPE
Cut in halves, remove the seeds. Serve one-half to each
guest. Eat with a spoon. Cantaloupes should be served
very cold.
BAKED APPLES
Wipe sweet apples perfectly clean, and remove the cores
without paring, stand them on an earthen baking-dish, and
516 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
bake in a moderate oven until tender. Serve cold with
sugar and cream.
Or, pour over them drawn butter, flavored and sweet-
ened.
STEWED APPLES
Pare tart apples, cut them into quarters and remove the
cores; put them into a porcelain-lined kettle, strew with
sugar, add the juice of half a lemon and a few bits of the
yellow rind; cover with boiling water, and simmer gently
until tender. Dish carefully without breaking, and serve
cold.
CODDLED APPLES
Pare tart apples of uniform size ; remove the cores without
breaking the apples. Stand them in the bottom of a por-
celain-lined kettle, strew thickly with sugar, cover the bot-
tom of the kettle with boiling water, put on the lid, and
allow the apples to steam on the back part of the stove
until tender. Dish carefully without breaking; pour the
syrup over them, and stand away to cool.
BLACKBERRY FLUMMERY
i cup of blackberries 2 even tablespoon fuls of
i pint of water corn-starch
Sugar to taste
Put the blackberries and water on to boil. Boil slowly ten
minutes without stirring. Moisten the corn-starch in a
little cold water, stir it into the boiling blackberries, stir
carefully until it thickens, take from the fire, add the sugar,
and turn out to cool. Serve cold, with sugar and cream.
BLACKBERRY MUSH
Make the same as Flummery, using three tablespoonfuls of
corn -starch instead of two.
FRUITS 517
STEWED CRANBERRIES
Wash one quart of cranberries, put them in a porcelain-
lined kettle, add one pint of water, cover the kettle, and
stew ten minutes; add one pound of sugar, and stand on
the back part of the stove where it will not boil, for fifteen
minutes, then turn out to cool.
STEWED GOOSEBERRIES
Stem and top one quart of berries, and cook the same as
Cranberries.
BAKED PEARS
For this choose large sweet pears. Wipe them, but do not
remove the stems. Stand them in an earthen baking-dish,
pour around them a cup of boiling water, add two table-
spoonfuls of sugar, cover with another dish, and bake
slowly until the pears are tender, basting three or four
times with the liquor. When done, stand away to cool in
the dish in which they were baked. When cold, lift them
carefully into a pretty glass dish, pour the liquor over them,
and serve with sugar and cream.
STEWED PEARS
Pears may be stewed precisely the same as Apples.
STEWED PRUNES
Wash the prunes through several cold waters, cover them
with fresh cold water, and soak over night. Next day,
turn them with the water into a porcelain-lined kettle,
sweeten to taste, and let them simmer very gently until
tender. When done, remove them carefully with a skim-
mer, and boil the syrup rapidly for ten minutes; then
pour it over the prunes, and stand away to cool.
Dried peaches may be stewed in the same way.
518 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
STEWED RHUBARB
Wash the rhubarb, and cut it into pieces about one inch
long. Do not peel. To every pound of rhubarb allow
one pound of sugar. Put the rhubarb into a porcelain-
lined or granite kettle, cover it with the sugar, and stand
it on the back part of the fire until the sugar melts; then
bring it to boiling point without stirring. Then turn it
carefully out to cool, and it is ready for use.
CANNING AND PRESERVING
CANNING
The process of canning the different kinds of fruit varies
but little, except in the amount of sugar used. None but
perfectly sound and fresh fruits should be used for this pur-
pose. They may be canned with or without sugar, as the
sugar takes no part whatever in their preservation. The
fruit should not be cooked sufficiently long to destroy its
natural flavor, and while boiling hot should be sealed in
air-tight glass jars, filled to overflowing to exclude every
particle of air, then quickly sealed. The jars should be
thoroughly heated before filling, filled through a wide-
mouthed funnel, and should, during this process, stand on
a folded damp towel, to prevent breakage. Large-mouthed
glass jars, with porcelain-lined or glass tops only, should
be used. After filling and screwing on the tops, stand
the jars in a warm part of the kitchen, where the air
will not strike them, over night. In the morning you
will be able to give the tops another turn. Then wipe the
jars carefully, and put them away in a cool (not cold) dark
closet. In a week or two examine them carefully; if the
liquid has settled, and you see no small air bubbles, or the
porcelain-lined tops slightly indented, you may be sure that
the fruit is keeping ; if you ffnd the opposites, the fruit is be-
ginning to ferment, and the jars will burst if not opened.
Re-cook and use them at once for stewed fruit, as it is never
(519)
520 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
satisfactory to return them to the jars. All large fruits should
be thrown into cold water as soon as pared, to prevent dis-
coloration, then boiled in clear water, in which has been
dissolved a quarter-teaspoonful of powdered alum to every
quart of water, until tender, then drained and boiled a few
moments in the syrup. Cook only enough to fill one or
two jars at a time ; have the jars hot and everything ready
as soon as the fruit is done. Fill the jars quickly, run a
silver spoon handle around the inside of the jar to break
any air bubbles that may be there, and then screw on the
tops without delay.
Small fruits are best sugared one or two hours be-
fore cooking, and then if you add the same proportion
of alum, they will be clear and keep their shape.
They should just be brought to boiling point, skimmed,
and sealed immediately.
The surplus juice that exudes from strawberries and
plums may be strained and boiled for jelly.
By following these directions religiously, and using
the quantities given in the recipes that follow, success is
sure.
APPLES
i pound of sugar The grated yellow rind of
4 pounds of apples one lemon
i quart of water
Pare the apples, throw them into cold water. When you
have enough to fill one or two jars, take them from the
water, put them in a porcelain-lined kettle, cover with
boiling water, stand them on the back part of the fire,
where they will scarcely bubble, until tender. While they
are cooking, put the sugar andwater in another kettle, stir
the sugar until it is dissolved, add the lemon rind, and boil
three minutes. When the apples are sufficiently tender to
CANNING AND PRESERVING 521
admit a straw, lift them carefully with a strainer from the
water into the syrup, bring to boiling point, skim, and can
as directed.
PEACHES
Proceed precisely the same as for Apples.
PEARS
Proceed precisely the same as for Apples.
Bartletts are best for canning.
PINEAPPLE
Pare the pineapple, take out the eyes, then pick the pine-
apple into pieces with a silver fork. To every pound of the
picked pineapple allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar.
Put the pineapple into a porcelain-lined kettle, add the
sugar, and cook over a very moderate fire ten minutes.
Can as directed.
Or, the pineapple may be grated.
QUINCES
Pare and core the quinces and cut into rings. Finish the
same as apples, using a half-pound of sugar to every pound
of quinces.
The skin and rough pieces may be used for jelly.
BLACKBERRIES
To every pound of blackberries allow a quarter-pound of
sugar. Put the berries in a porcelain-lined kettle, cover
them with the sugar, and let stand one or two hours, then
add a quarter-teaspoon ful of ^powdered alum to each quart
of fruit. Stand over a moderate fire, and bring to boiling
point. Skim, and can as directed.
522 PHILADELPHIA COOK ROOK
CHERRIES
Stone the cherries ; and, if pie or morello cherries, allow a
half-pound of sugar to every pound of cherries. If ox-
hearts, a quarter-pound of sugar. Proceed the same as
for Blackberries.
CURRANTS AND RASPBERRIES
To every quart of the large red raspberries allow a half-pint
of currant juice and a half-pound of sugar. Put the ber-
ries in a porcelain-lined kettle, add the juice and sugar,
bring to boiling point, and can.
DAMSONS
To every five pounds of damsons allow three pounds of
sugar. Finish the same as Blackberries.
BLUE PLUMS
Allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every pound
of plums. Proceed as for Blackberries.
Gages may be canned in the same manner, first pricking
the skins to prevent cracking.
STRAWBERRIES
Can the same as Blackberries, using a half-pound of sugar
to every pound of strawberries.
PRESERVING
To preserve, use equal quantities of fruit and sugar, and
cook sufficiently long to keep the fruit without being her-
metically sealed. Use only the best white sugar.
Small fruits should be cooked slowly forty minutes ;
large fruits, pared and put immediately into the syrup, and
then cooked very slowly until you can pierce them with a
straw.
CANNING AND PRESERVING 523
Put the fruits into tumblers or very small jars, and
thereby prevent disturbing a larger quantity than is needed.
PRESERVED CITRON
Pare off the outer skin, cut into halves, remove the seeds,
then divide each half into a number of smaller pieces. Put
them in a stone jar, add a half-cup of salt to every five
pounds of citron. Cover with cold water, and stand aside
for five hours; then drain, and cover with fresh, cold
water. Soak two hours, changing the water three or four
times. Dissolve a teaspoonful of powdered alum in two
quarts of boiling water, add the citron, and bring to boil-
ing point. Drain. Make a syrup from two and a half
pounds of granulated sugar and one and a half quarts of
boiling water, boil and skim. When perfectly clear, put in
the citron and simmer gently until you can pierce it with a
straw. When tender, lift the pieces carefully with a skim-
mer, place them on a large plate, and stand in the sun one
or two hours to harden. Peel the yellow rind from one
large lemon, add it to the syrup, then add the juice of two
lemons, and a small piece of green ginger-root cut in thin
slices. Boil gently for ten minutes, and stand aside until
wanted. When the citron has hardened, put it cold into
the jars, bring the syrup again to a boil, and strain it over
the citron.
Watermelon rind and pumpkin may be preserved in
the same manner.
MARMALADES OR JAMS
BLACKBERRY JAM
Put the blackberries into a porcelain-lined kettle, stand
them over a very moderate fire until thoroughly heated,
then press them through a sieve. Measure the liquid, and
524 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
to every pint allow a half-pound of sugar. Put the sugar
and liquid back into the kettle and boil rapidly twenty
minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching. Pour
into tumblers or jars, and seal the same as fruit jelly.
GRAPE JAM
Pulp the grapes ; put the skins in one basin and the pulps
in another. Pour the pulps into a porcelain-lined kettle,
and bring to boiling point ; then press them through a
colander, add the skins, and measure. Finish the same as
Blackberry Jam.
Or, after boiling the twenty minutes, the whole may
be pressed through a sieve to make it fine.
ORANGE MARMALADE (Miss Parloa)
Take equal weights of sour oranges and sugar. Grate the
yellow rind from one-fourth of the oranges. Cut all the
fruit in halves at what might be called the "equator."
Pick out the pulp and free it of seeds. Drain off as much
juice as you conveniently can, and put it on to boil with
the sugar. Let it come to a boil ; skim, and simmer for
fifteen minutes ; then put in the pulp and grated rind, and
boil fifteen minutes longer. Put away in jelly tumblers.
PEACH MARMALADE
Rub the peaches, but do not pare them. Cut them in
halves, remove the stones, and, to every pound of peaches,
allow a half-pound of sugar. Put the peaches in a porce-
lain-lined kettle, add sufficient water to cover the bottom
of the kettle; cover, and heat slowly to boiling point; then
stir and mash the peaches tmtil fine, add the sugar and
three or four kernels (to every quart of marmalade)
blanched and pounded to a paste. Boil and stir continu-
CANNING AND PRESERVING 525
ally for fifteen minutes, then stand over a more moderate
fire, and cook slowly twenty minutes longer. Stir occa-
sionally, that it may not scorch. Put away in stone jars.
Plum Marmalade and Quince Marmalade may be
made in the same manner.
BRANDY PEACHES
Take large white or yellow freestone peaches. (They must
not be too ripe.) Scald them with boiling water ; cover,
and let stand until the water becomes cold. Repeat this
scalding, then take them out, lay them on a soft cloth, cover
them over with another cloth, and let them remain until
perfectly dry. Now put them in stone jars, and cover with
brandy. Tie paper over the tops of the jars, and let them
remain in this way one week. Then make a syrup, allow-
ing one pound of granulated sugar and a half-pint of water
to each pound of peaches. Boil, and skim the syrup, then
put in the peaches, and simmer until tender ; then take the
peaches out, drain, and put them in glass jars. Stand the
syrup aside to cool. When cold, mix equal quantities of this
syrup and the brandy in which you had the peaches. Pour
this over the peaches, and seal.
PICKLING
SWEET PICKLES
Sweet pickles should be rich, and sufficiently cooked to
keep without being hermetically sealed.
SPICED PEACHES
7 pounds of peaches i teaspoon ful of ground cloves
4 pounds of sugar 2 teaspoon fuls of allspice
i pint of vinegar 2 teaspoonfuls of cinnamon
y<2, ounce of ginger root ^ teaspoon ful of ground mace
Pare the peaches, but do not remove the stones. Put the
vinegar and sugar on to boil. Mix the spices, and divide
them into four parts. Put each part into a small square of
muslin, tie tightly, and then throw them into the sugar and
vinegar. When this mixture is hot, add the peaches ; bring
all to boiling point, take from the fire, and turn carefully into
a stone jar. Stand in a cool place over night. Next day,
drain all the liquor from the peaches into a porcelain-lined
kettle, stand it over a moderate fire, and, when boiling hot,
pour it back in the jar over the peaches. Next day, drain
and heat again as before, and do this for nine consecutive
days ; the last time boil the liquor down until there is just
enough to cover the fruit. Add the fruit to it, bring the
whole to a boil, and put in jars or tumblers for keeping.
(526)
PICKLING 527
The following fruits may be pickled or spiced in the
same manner :
Cantaloupe Pears Quinces
Cherries Plums Watermelon rind
SOUR PICKLES
For these, use none but the best cider vinegar. Do not
boil it, as in this way it is weakened ; bring it only to
scalding-point before pouring it over the pickles. A tiny
piece of alum scalded with cucumber or gherkin pickles
makes them crisp.
Always prepare pickles in porcelain -lined or granite
kettles ; use wooden spoons, never metal. Spice carefully,
so that one flavor will not predominate, but will all com-
bine to make a pleasant whole. Cucumbers and other
pickles are often so strongly flavored with onion, spices,
etc., that the original flavor is entirely lost.
Pirkles should be kept in a dark dry place in stone or
glass jars.
Nasturtiums or a small piece of horse-radish thrown
in each jar prevents the vinegar from moulding.
If you wish your cucumbers green, put them into cold
vinegar in a porcelain-lined kettle, stand them over a mod-
erate fire, and heat slowly until they become green.
As pickles of all kinds are indigestible, eat sparingly
and masticate thoroughly.
MIXED PICKLES
y& medium-sized head of 6 large green tomatoes
cabbage i large or two small Spanish
4 large roots of celery onions
4 tablespoon fuls of grated 2 cucumbers
horse-radish i red and one green pepper
Chop all the vegetables, and mix them together. Put a
528 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
layer about two inches thick in the bottom of a jar, sprinkle
it with a tablespoonful of salt, then another layer of vege-
tables and salt, and so on until all is used. Let stand
twenty-four hours, then drain, and press out all the liquor ;
cover with boiling water, let stand again ten minutes, then
press with your hands until perfectly dry. Add to one
quart of vinegar, a quarter-teaspoonful of powdered alum,
and stir until dissolved. Now put a layer (two inches
thick) of the pickles in the bottom of the jar, then sprinkle
with mustard seed, black pepper, and the grated horse-rad-
ish ; now another layer of pickles, and so on until all is
used. Now pour over it the vinegar, let stand two days,
and it is ready to use.
CHOW CHOW
}/2, pound of English mustard ^ gallon of vinegar
y<z ounce of turmeric i cup of sugar
2 tablespoonfuls of mustard i gill of salad oil
seed i head of cauliflower
i quart of string beans i quart of tiny cucumbers
i quart of button onions
Boil the cauliflower, beans and onions separately until tender.
Cover the cucumbers with strong salt water and soak twenty-
four hours. Then mix all together. Put the vinegar in a
porcelain-lined kettle. Mix the mustard and turmeric
together, and moisten them with a little cold vinegar, then
stir them into the hot vinegar and stir continually until it
begins to thicken ; then add the sugar, mustard seed, and
oil, stir again and pour this, while hot, over the vegetables.
Put away in glass or st.one jars.
OILED PICKLES
100 small cucumbers i quart of onions
% pound of ground mustard i pint of olive oil
i teaspoon ful of black pepper i ounce of celery seed
^ pound of whole mustard 2 quarts of vinegar
PICKLES 529
Pare the cucumbers and onions, and slice them in thin
slices. Put a layer of cucumbers, then a layer of onions,
then a heavy sprinkling of salt, then another layer of
cucumbers, and so continue these alternations. On top,
place a heavy weight to press them down ; let stand over
night, or at least six hours. Then drain off the liquor.
Put a tablespoonful of powdered alum in sufficient cold
vinegar to cover the pickles, stir until the alum is dissolved,
pour this over the cucumbers and onions, and stand aside
for four or five hours. Then drain. (This vinegar may be
saved to use for other purposes.) Put the cucumbers and
onions into glass or stone jars. Mix the mustard, pepper and
celery seed with the oil, then add gradually the two quarts of
vinegar, and pour over the cucumbers and onions. Fasten
the jars, and in two weeks the pickles will be ready to use.
BORDEAUX SAUCE (Mrs. Henry Addis)
1 gallon of chopped green i ounce of cloves
tomatoes i ounce of turmeric
2 gallons of chopped cabbage i ounce of ginger
i ounce of black pepper i ounce of celery seed
y^. pound of brown sugar % pound of mustard seed
i gill of salt i gallon of vinegar
Mix the cloves, ginger, turmeric, pepper, celery seed, mus-
tard seed, sugar and salt together, then add the vinegar ;
pour this over the cabbage and tomatoes, turn into a porce-
lain-lined kettle, and simmer gently twenty minutes. Put
away in glass or stone jars.
GREEN TOMATO PICKLES
i peck of green tomatoes, ^ pound of ground mustard
sliced i dozen onions, sliced
i Y-2, ounces of black pepper i ounce of whole cloves
i ounce of whole allspice i ounce of mustard seed
Put a layer of tomatoes, then a layer of onions, then a
sprinkling of salt, then another layer of tomatoes, and so
530 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
on ; let stand over night. Next morning, drain off all the
liquor, put them in a porcelain-lined kettle with all the
other ingredients, cover with vinegar, and simmer gently
fifteen minutes. Put away in stone or glass jars.
PICKLED ONIONS
Pour boiling brine over the small button onions, let them
stand twenty-four hours, then drain, and cover with hot
vinegar spiced to taste.
SMALL CUCUMBER PICKLES
Wash and wipe one hundred small cucumbers and place
them in jars. Cover them with boiling brine, strong
enough to bear an egg ; let stand twenty-four hours. Then
take them out, wipe, place in clean jars, and cover with
hot vinegar, spiced with an onion, twelve whole cloves, one
ounce of mustard seed, and three blades of mace. They
will be ready to use in two weeks.
LEMON PICKLE
For this choose small fruit with thick rind. Rub them with
a piece of flannel ; then slit them down the quarters, but
not quite through the pulp, fill these slits with salt and press
it in. Stand them upright in an earthen dish for four days
until the salt melts. Then turn them three days in this
liquor. Drain, and add to the liquor sufficient cider vinegar
to cover them, add one Jamaica pepper, and one small
piece of green ginger-root cut into small pieces. Bring to
boiling-point and skim, then stand aside to cool. When
cold, pour it over the lemons, and put away in glass jars.
PICKLED WALNUTS
The walnuts should be gathered when very young and soft,
soft enough to be easily pierced with a pin. They should
be gathered in the middle of the day, when the sun is hot
PICKLES 531
upon them. Rub them with a coarse flannel. Then make
a brine from salt and water, strong enough to bear an egg,
and let them lie in it nine days, changing the brine every
other day. At the end of this time, take them out, spread
them on large dishes and expose them to the atmosphere
for about thirty minutes. Then pour over them boiling
water, then take them out one at a time, rub them with a
piece of coarse flannel, and pierce them with a large needle
in several places. Now place them in glass jars. To every
hundred walnuts allow one gallon of vinegar, one ounce
of cloves, one ounce of allspice, one ounce of black pepper,
a half-ounce of mace, and a half-ounce of nutmeg. Put
the spices in the vinegar, and scald in a porcelain kettle for
fifteen minutes. Then strain the vinegar, and pour it,
boiling hot, over the walnuts ; add a large tablespoon ful
of grated horse-radish, and a cupful of mustard-seed.
Cover closely and stand in a cool place.
MANGOES.
Cut the tops from one dozen red and one dozen green
peppers. Remove the seeds and save the tops. Stand the
peppers upright in a tub ; put a teaspoonful of salt in each
one, cover with cold water and soak twenty-four hours.
Drain. Cut two large, heads of cabbage on a cabbage
cutter, add to this one teaspoonful of ground cloves, one
teaspoonful of ground allspice, four tablespoon fuls of whole
mustard and two tablespoon fuls of salt ; mix thoroughly.
Stuff the peppers with this mixture. Put on the tops and
tie tightly. Stand them upright in stone jars, and cover
with cold vinegar.
Mangoes are also made from peaches and small melons.
CATSUPS
CUCUMBER CATSUP
For this, choose large, ripe cucumbers. Pare, remove the
seeds, and grate. To every pint of this pulp allow :
J^ pint of cider vinegar
y^ teaspoonful of cayenne
1 teaspoonful of salt
2 heaping tablespoon fuls of grated
horse-radish
Drain the grated cucumber in a colander, then mix with
all the other ingredients. Bottle and seal.
MUSHROOM CATSUP
Take freshly gathered mushrooms and examine them care-
fully to see that they are all right. Wipe them, but do not
wash. Put a layer of the mushrooms in the bottom of an
earthen dish, then sprinkle well with salt, then another
layer of mushrooms, another of salt, and so on alternately ;
cover with a folded towel, and stand in a very warm place
for twenty-four hours ; then mash and strain through a
coarse bag. To every quart of this liquor add one ounce
of pepper-corns, and boil slowly in a porcelain-lined kettle
for thirty minutes; then add a quarter-ounce of whole
allspice, a half-ounce of sliced ginger-root, one dozen whole
cloves, and three blades of mace. Boil fifteen minutes
CATSUPS 533
longer. Take from the fire and stand aside to cool. When
cold, strain through flannel, and put into small bottles,
filling to the very top. Cork tightly and dip in sealing-
wax.
TOMATO CATSUP No. i (Prof. Rachel Bodlcy)
Cut ripe tomatoes into thin slices ; then put into a stone
jar a layer of tomatoes and a layer of salt, and stand aside
for three days. Then press through a sieve, add vinegar
and spice to taste, bottle and seal.
TOMATO CATSUP No. 2
i bushel of ripe tomatoes 2 ounces of mustard
^ gallon of vinegar i ounce of ginger
Y?, pound of sugar ^ ounce of cloves
y? pint of salt ^ ounce of cayenne
i y^ ounces of black pepper l / ounce o^powdered
i y-2, ounces of allspice assafetida
i pint of alcohol
Put the tomatoes on to boil, boil gently a half-hour, then
press them through a sieve to remove the seeds and skins.
Return this liquid to the kettle (which should be porcelain-
lined), and boil down to one and a half gallons ; then add
the vinegar and evaporate to one and three-quarter gallons;
then add the sugar, salt and spices ; stir until thoroughly-
mixed. Put the assafetida into a teacup, add to it two
tablespoon fuls of the catsup, stir until thoroughly mixed,
then turn it into the kettle, stir continually until the catsup
comes to a boil, then take it from the fire and add the
alcohol. Bottle and seal while hot.
This recipe has been in constant use in my own family
for years, and is pronounced, by those who have used it
perfect.
534 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
COLD TOMATO CATSUP
Peel and chop very fine a half-peck of ripe tomatoes.
Drain them in a colander, then turn them into an earthen
vessel and add a half-cup of grated horse-radish, one cup
of salt, one cup of black and white mustard-seed mixed,
two tablespoon fuls of black pepper, two red peppers and
two roots of celery chopped fine, two teaspoonfuls of celery-
seed, one cup of nasturtiums chopped fine, one cup of
brown sugar, two tablespoonmls of ground cloves, two
tablespoonfuls of ground allspice, a teaspoonful of cinna-
mon, a teaspoonful of mace, and one quart of cider vinegar.
Mix all well together, bottle, and seal.
WALNUT CATSUP
Take one hundred green walnuts that are young enough to
be pierced through easily with a pin. Pierce each walnut
in five or six places, then put them in an earthen vessel,
cover with a half-pound of salt and two quarts of vinegar.
Cover and stand aside for six days, mashing with a potato
masher and stirring every day. At the end of that time,
strain off and squeeze every drop of liquor from the walnuts.
Add a half-pint of vinegar to the remaining husks, beat
them with a potato masher and squeeze again. Turn all
this liquor into a porcelain-lined kettle, add to it one ounce
of whole pepper-corns, forty whole cloves slightly bruised,
a quarter-ounce of whole mace, a quarter-ounce of nutmeg
cut in thin slices, a small root of horse-radish cut in slices,
one blade of garlic chopped, one long red pepper, a half-
pound of anchovies, and a quarter-ounce of green ginger-
root cut in slices. Bring this mixture slowly to a boil,
cover the kettle closely, and boil slowly a half-hour. Then
strain through a cloth and stand aside to cool. When cold,
add one pint of port wine; bottle, cork tightly, and seal.
This should stand three or four months before using.
CATSUPS 535
IMITATION OF WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE
Add to one quart of vinegar three-quarters of an ounce of
cayenne, three cloves of garlrc chopped fine, five anchovies
mashed, twelve whole cloves bruised, and two blades of
mace. Cover, and stand aside over night. Next day, rub
through a fine sieve, strain, add one gill of port wine, put
it in a demijohn, cork, and stand aside for ten days; then
bottle, cork and seal.
CHILI VINEGAR
This is made by infusing fifty of the small foreign bird-
peppers (small red and yellow peppers about one inch long)
in one pint of the best white wine vinegar for two weeks.
TARRAGON VINEGAR
Put into a wide-mouthed bottle one cup of freshly -gathered
tarragon leaves, cover with a quart of good cider vinegar;
cork the bottle and stand aside for two weeks, shaking fre-
quently ; then strain and squeeze through a flannel bag.
Pour into small bottles, cork, and keep in a cool place.
This is an agreeable addition to all salad and fish
sauces.
636 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
ADDITIONAL RECIPES 537
538 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
DRINKS
COFFEE f
The coffee tree is a native of southern Arabia and Abys-
sinia, and is cultivated in various parts of the world where
the temperature is sufficiently high and uniform. The
seeds are inclosed in the fruit, which is a roundish berry,
umbilicate at top, at first green, then red, and then a dark
purple resembling our common morello cherry; each
contains two seeds surrounded by a paperish membrane and
inclosed in a yellowish, pulpy matter. These berries are
allowed to ferment, then they are crushed under heavy roll-
ers, separated, the seeds divested of their coverings, and
dried. These seeds constitute our coffee. The character
of coffee varies considerably with the climate and mode
of culture. The Mocha coffee, which is known by its small,
roundish grains, agreeable odor and flavor, takes the pre-
cedence of all others. The Java, a large, flat grain, is
highly esteemed in this country. The Brazilian coffees are
between the two in size and inferior to both in flavor.
Coffee improves by age. It ripens in the mat, losing a
portion of its strength, and thus acquires a more agreeable
flavor. If you buy your coffee roasted, do so in small
quantities. Keep it closely corked and grind just before
using; the finer it is ground, the better. The peculiar
(539)
540 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
odor and flavor of roasted coffee are due to the caffeic acid,
the aromatic oil, and, doubtless, also, to the sugar, which is
changed to caramel. An infusion made at a low tempera-
ture (not exceeding 200 Fahr.) is much better than a
decoction made by boiling. The darker the coffee is
roasted, the more injurious the effects. If coffee be boiled,
there is extracted a poisonous oil, and the delicate aroma
and flavor of the true coffee escape in the steam ; and, if
you wish to enjoy them, repair at once to the top of the
house, and you will find them there. To my mind, there
is but one true and healthful way of making coffee, and
that is by percolation an infusion, not a decoction, being
made.
TO MAKE COFFEE
The most important point in making good coffee is to use
the water at the first boil ; after it boils a few minutes it
parts with its gases, and becomes flat and hard, and will
not make a perfect infusion if you use the finest berries
that Mocha ever exported. Consequently, wash the tea-
kettle perfectly clean every morning, fill it with fresh cold
water, and bring it quickly to boiling-point. Have the
coffee in the pot, allowing one heaping tablespoonful of
finely ground coffee to each cup, pour over it the water;
as soon as it drains through the biggin, fill the top again,
and so on until you have the desired quantity. Serve im-
mediately in the same pot, if possible, I have always pro-
duced the best coffee from a mixture of two- thirds Java
and one-third Mocha, and prefer the old-fashioned biggin
to any other pot.
For those who do, and always will boil their coffee, I
hesitatingly insert the following recipe :
DRINKS 541
TO BOIL COFFEE
Put four heaping tablespoon fuls of finely ground coffee
into any sort of a pot. Put the white of an egg into a
bowl, add to it a half-pint of cold water, beat slightly, and
put one-third of it into the pot with the coffee; add
sufficient cold water to thoroughly moisten. Then add
sufficient boiling water to make the quantity desired. Cover
the pot, stand it over a brisk fire, and bring it quickly to a
boil. Let it boil up thoroughly about a half-minute, add
a half-cup of cold water, and stand on one side of the fire
a few minutes to settle.
TEA
Tea is the dried leaves of the tea-plant, a hardy shrub
growing chiefly in China. The leaves are picked in May
and June of each year, a plant yielding good leaves from
four to five seasons. The good, bad, and indifferent teas
are all taken from the same shrub, the difference in quality
depending upon the. soil and the time of gathering. The
young leaf-buds that are picked first form our finest tea,
known as Gunpowder; the second picking is second best,
and so on. The Hysons are also good varieties of green
teas. The Pekoe is among the best of the black teas.
TO MAKE TEA
Tea, like coffee, should not be boiled, but made from
fresh boiling water, allowing one teaspoonful to each person,
and one to the pot. First scald the pot, and allow it to
stand on the back part of the stove about ten minutes;
then turn out the water, put the tea into the hot pot, and pour
over it one-half the boiling water (that is, if you are going
to make one quart of tea, pour over it, at this stage, one
542 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
pint), cover the pot, and stand on the back part of the
stove five minutes to draw; then add the remainder of the
boiling water, and serve at once.
Never use a metal teapot.
Russian tea is made by putting a slice of lemon in the
bottom of each cup, and pouring over it the boiling tea.
COCOA
Cocoa, or chocolate nuts, are the seeds of Theobroma
Cacao, a handsome tree from fifteen to twenty feet in
height, growing in Mexico, the West Indies, and South
America. These seeds, or cacao beans, are roasted the
same as coffee until the aroma is brought out. They are
then pounded to a paste in a hot mortar, or ground between
rollers. The preparation thus produced, when mixed with
sugar, starch, cinnamon, and vanilla, forms the chocolate
of commerce.
Cocoa is the bean ground fine, the oil partly extracted,
and the remaining powder mixed with a small quantity of
sugar.
Cocoa Nibs is the bean deprived of its husks, and
then broken into small rough pieces. This is the purest
and best cocoa in our markets.
The shells or husks are also used to make a weak decoc-
tion for persons with delicate stomachs.
CHOCOLATE
Put four ounces of chocolate into a farina boiler, stand it
over the fire to melt. When melted, add one quart of new
milk slightly warmed, and two tablespoonfuls of sugar.
Cover the farina boiler and boil five minutes, then, with a
whip-churn or an egg-beater, beat the chocolate until
smooth and creamy. Serve with whipped cream.
DRINKS 543
COCOA
Put one quart of milk to boil in a farina boiler. Moisten
four tablespoonluls of cocoa with a little cold milk, pour it
into the boiling milk, stirring all the while. Stir until it
comes to boiling-point, cover the farina boiler, and boil five
minutes. Serve with whipped cream.
Broma, alkathrepta, and racahout are all made pre-
cisely the same as Cocoa.
COCOA FROM THE NIBS
Put a half-cup of the broken cocoa into a farina boiler
with two quarts of boiling water. Boil two hours, or until
reduced to one quart, then add one pint of boiling cream,
and serve.
RACAHOUT POWDER
i pound of rice flour i pound of cocoa
i pound of confectioners' 2 ounces of arrowroot
xxx sugar 2 ounces of sugar of milk
i ounce of powdered salep i vanilla bean
Mix and thoroughly rub together, put into glass jars, and
fasten.
RASPBERRY VINEGAR
Put two quarts of raspberries into a stone jar, and pour
over them one quart of good cider vinegar. Cover and
stand aside for two days, then drain off the liquid without
mashing the berries, pour it over a quart of fresh fruit, and
stand as before. Do this once more, the last time strain-
ing through a muslin bag. Now add one pound of sugar to
every pint of this liquid. Boil slowly five minutes, skim,
let stand fifteen^ minutes, bottle, and seal.
Strawberry and blackberry vinegars are made in pre-
cisely the same manner.
IN THE KITCHEN AND
PANTRY
It is impossible to give any directions, except in a general
way, regarding the kitchen and pantry. Both should be
light, airy, and well furnished with convenient and labor-
saving utensils. A wide, roomy dresser is most convenient.
It should have at least two closets above, and two below,
with two deep drawers at the top of the lower closets.
In the upper closets should be kept all the dishes necessary
for cooking, the pudding moulds, tins, etc. In the lower
closet, pots, kettles, saucepans, waffle irons, and broilers, all
arranged and grouped' so that those in frequent use can be
quickly gotten out. In the drawers should be kept cooking
knives and forks, larding and trussing needles, wooden
spoons and forks ; also jelly-bags, dish towels, linen soup-
strainers, fish cloths, and a large piece of cheese-cloth that
may be torn in convenient pieces as wanted ; a roll of tape
and a ball of linen twine for trussing. Over the kitchen
door there should be a ventilator. Two or three wall-
pockets are convenient for holding papers, etc.
Keep all scouring apparatus, chamois skins, etc., in the
table drawers.
By the side of the range there should be a bracket
large enough to hold a dredging-box with flour, one with
salt, another with pepper, and still another with sugar.
Keep tureens, large meat plates and bowls on the
body of the dresser.
A corner closet in the pantry should hold all the sugar
and spice boxes, all sauces in constant use, tea, coffee, and
(544)
KITCHEN AND PANTRY 545
small dry groceries. Immediately under the window in
the pantry there should be a stationary pastry table with
marble top, and grooves underneath holding a hard-wood
bread board, which can be pulled out and placed on top
the marble when wanted for bread or biscuits. A small
refrigerator should also be kept in the pantry to hold the
little things that need to be kept cool while a meal is in
preparation. By the side of the pastry table have two or
three deep shelves to hold the bread and pies as you finish
them. The pantry should open both into the kitchen and
the dining-room, and should be as convenient to the range
as circumstances will allow. It should have an abundance of
shelves, closets, and drawers.
Glass jars are convenient and best for most dry gro-
ceries, such as rice, tapioca, oatmeal, etc.
If you have a large refrigerator, place it in the base-
ment or cellar where it can be filled with ice from a window
or opening made for the purpose. A drain-pipe should
also be attached to carry the water away. This saves much
time and labor. A refrigerator should be examined daily,
and kept scrupulously clean. Fish, onions, cucumbers, or
any strong vegetables should not be kept in a refrigerator
with milk or butter unless the refrigerator has an automatic
circulation of pure, dry air. If your refrigerator is lined
with metal, " things" will taste, one of the other.
The inexperienced housekeeper will, we believe, be
glad of some guidance in selecting the proper utensils
needed in a well-furnished kitchen. There are a number
of utensils which are not in general use which lessen the
labor of cooking, and add much to the attractiveness of the
food, as well as to the comfort of the cook. It certainly is
unfair to expect a cook to prepare a well-appointed meal
without allowing her the needful implements. The follow-
ing list will be found to contain all the utensils needed in a
well-furnished kitchen:
TIN WARE
I apple corer I small funnel
i asparagus boiler 3 ice-cream moulds
i two quart covered pail I heavy wire broiler for steaks
546
PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
I four-quart covered pail
i quart graduated measure
I steamer with lid
I melon mould with lid
1 fluted pudding mould with lid
2 one-quart fancy moulds
2 pint fancy moulds
1 border mould
2 plain Charlotte Russe moulds
I six-quart boned-turkey mould
i meat-pie mould
12 pie dishes
6 deep jelly-cake tins
12 muffin rings
I whip churn
I box of French cutters, assorted
6 vegetable cutters, assorted
I long-handled skimmer
3 confectioners' tubes, assorted
I long-handled dipper
I large grater for onions
I large grater for bread
I nutmeg grater
I dredging-box for pepper
I dredging-box for cayenne
I dredging-box for' salt
I dredging-box for flour
I dredging-box for sugar
I large funnel
heavy wire broiler for fish
heavy wire broiler for oysters
fine wire broiler for toast
wire potato masher
Henis vegetable press
wire frying-basket
wire salad washer
fine wire soup-strainer
puree sieve
small gravy strainers
wire basket for boiling eggs
common colander
flat colander
2 large dish pans
2 small dish pans
6 round basins, assorted
1 round tin box for holding lard-
ing and trussing needles
2 two-quart milk cans
2 one-quart milk cans
3 tin sheets
coffee canister
tea canister
small oil can
chafing-dish
bread box
cake box
cracker box
coffee biggin
WOODEN WARE
large bread board
medium-sized bread board
meat board
fish board
plank for planking shad
oval chopping-tray
wooden potato masher
potato and cabbage cutter
scrub bucket
knife box
barrel covers
ice-cream freezer
ice pick
keeler
2 butter paddles
6 wooden spoons, assorted
2 pastry brushes
I small paint brush for greasing
pans
1 dust brush
2 stove brushes
I scrubbing-brush for tables
I scrubbing-brush for floor
I scrubbing-brush for sink
I scrubbing-brush for glass and
china
I scrubbing-brush for vegetables
i nest of boxes
i nest of buckets
i spice box
1 salt box
2 dish mops .
KITCHEN AND PANTRY
547
2 wooden forks
1 hard-wood rolling-pin
2 wooden spatulas
i knife-scouring box
I floor mop
i lemon squeezer
i refrigerator (Ridgway's is best)
i mortar and pestle
AGATE WARE
I two-quart farina boiler
I one-quart farina boiler
i ten-quart covered soup kettle
i ten-quart oval soup kettle for
boiling ham
i six-quart covered kettle
1 four-quart covered kettle
2 two-quart covered kettles
2 one-quart saucepans
2 pint saucepans
i Turk's-head 2
I teapot
French frying-pans, assorted
deep frying-pan for croquettes
Bain Marie
large flat-bottomed teakettle
batter bucket
pitchers
mixing-bowl
wash-basin
set of gem pans
set of lady-finger pans
round baking-pans
IRON AND STEEL WARE
1 griddle
2 dripping-pans, large size
2 dripping-pans, small size
6 bread pans, 4x6
Boston brown-bread mould
waffle iron
French roll pan
porcelain-lined preserve kettle
salamander a heavy iron ar-
rangement that may be heated
red hot, and held off a sur-
face to brown it
1 scales
Sad irons
2 large spoons
6 tablespoons
6 teaspoons
i large meat fork
6 kitchen knives
6 kitchen forks
I butcher knife
i palette knife
1 chopping-knife
2 boning-knives
I French cook's knife
I can opener
I pair sardine scissors
I pair scissors
I corkscrew
I cleaver
I set of skewers
I set of larding needles
I trussing needle
I pastry jagger
I potato scoop
i griddle spade
1 egg slice
3 baking-sheets
2 cake pans with movable centres
I wire dishcloth
I hammer
Tacks
i cave for freezing
I galvanized garbage bucket with
lid
I set of deep corn gem pans
i Reed's roaster
i meat chopper (Enterprise
No. 10)
i Dover egg-beater
548 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
EARTHEN AND STONE WARE
6 yellow bowls, assorted 2 butter pots
4 half-pint bowls I glass rolling-pin
6 half-pint kitchen cups I graduated glass measure
6 large soup dishes for meats, 6 stone jars, assorted
fish, etc. 12 baking-cups for pop-overs
2 stone jugs 12 French custard cups
2 demijohns I bean pot
MISCELLANEOUS
I pastry bag 2 dishcloths
I jelly bag Pudding cloths
1 large piece of cheese-cloth Fine strainer cloths
12 dish towels Coarse bag for cracking ice
12 hand towels Twine
2 floor cloths Ironing sheet and holders
GATHERED CRUMBS
LEMON BUTTER
i pound of powdered sugar Yolks of six eggs
Whites of four eggs Rind of one and juice of
]^ pound of butter two lemons
Beat the yolks of the eggs, sugar, and butter together until
very light; then add to them the whites, well beaten.
Pour this into a farina boiler, and stir constantly over the
fire unfil it thickens; then add the juice and rind of the
lemons, and turn into an earthen vessel to cool.
FRENCH HONEY
Beat together a half-cup of sugar and a half-cup of butter
until very light; then add one egg and beat again, add the
juice and rind of one lemon, and stir the whole over the
fire until it thickens and comes to a boil. Turn out to cool.
NEVADA MOUNTAIN HONEY
Boil two pounds qf white sugar, a half-pint of water, and
a half-teaspoonful of powdered sugar together for three
minutes, after it begins to boil. Do not stir after the sugar
is dissolved. Add three drops of oil of rose and three
drops of oil of peppermint to one gill of alcohol ; shake
it well, and add a half-teaspoonful of it to the boiling syrup.
Turn out to cool.
This, if carefully made, is a most perfect imitation of
strained honey.
(549)
550 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
TO MAKE BUTTER
Warm the cream to a temperature of 56 or 58 Fahr., and
it will churn in fifteen minutes. After the butter collects
in the churn, take it out and stand it for a minute in a very
cold place. Do not wash it, as in this way you rob it of
certain elements necessary for its preservation. Work it
continuously and thoroughly until all the buttermilk is out,
adding two even teaspoonfuls of very fine salt to each
pound of butter, after you have worked it about five min-
utes. Make it at once into prints, and stand away in a
cool place.
TO MAKE CARPETS BRIGHT
Sprinkle them with tea-leaves; sweep thoroughly, but
lightly. Rub all spots with a clean dry cloth. Grease
spots may be drawn out by covering with a piece of coarse
brown paper, and then passing over them a warm flat-iron.
The paper, if soft, will absorb the grease.
TO WASH SILK
Mix a quarter-pound of honey, a quarter-pound of soft
soap, one gill of gin, and a pint of cold water together.
Put the silk on a table or board, scrub it with this mixture,
rubbing it in well ; then rinse in clear soft water. Shake
it as dry as you can; do not wring it. Hang it up by the
edges, and, as soon as it is sufficiently dry, iron it on the
wrong side.
A fluid for removing grease from silk and cloth may be
made by mixing together a quarter-ounce of carbonate of
ammonia, a quarter-ounce of fluid chloroform, a quarter-
ounce of sulphuric ether, and one quart of distilled ben-
zine. Bottle and cork. This, like all such mixtures, is
very inflammable.
GATHERING THE PERFUME OF PLANTS
The perfume of flowers may be gathered in a very simple
manner and without apparatus. Gather the flowers with as
little stalk as possible and place them in a jar three parts
full of almond or olive oil. After being in the oil twenty-
four hours, put them into a coarse cloth, and squeeze the
GATHERED CRUMBS 551
oil from them. Put this oil back into the jar and fill again
with fresh flowers, and repeat the operation according to
the strength of the perfume desired. The oil being thus
thoroughly perfumed with the volatile principle of the
flowers is to be mixed with an equal quantity of pure recti-
fied spirits, and shaken every day for two weeks, when it
may be poured off ready for use.
TO STOP BLEEDING
If the blood comes from a wound in jets or spirts be quick
or the person may bleed to death in a few minutes, because
the artery is severed. Tie a handkerchief loosely around
near the part between the wound and the heart. Put a
stick between the handkerchief and the skin, and twist it
around, tightening the handkerchief until the blood ceases
to flow, and keep in that position until the physician arrives.
If in a position where the handkerchief cannot be used
press the thumb on a spot near the wound, between the
wound and heart ; increase the pressure until the bleeding
ceases, but do not lessen the pressure for an instant, until
the physician arrives.
TO RESUSCITATE THE DROWNED
As soon as the body is removed from the water, press the
chest suddenly and forcible downward and backward and
instantly discontinue the pressure. Repeat this without in-
termission until a pair of bellows can be procured. When
obtained, introduce the nozzle well upon the tongue, sur-
round the mouth with a handkerchief or towel and close it.
Direct a bystander to press firmly on the projecting part of
the throat, called Adam's apple, and use the bellows gently
and regularly, and each time the lungs are inflated with the
bellows press upon the chest to expel the air from the lungs
to imitate natural breathing. Continue this an hour at
least, until signs of natural breathing come on. Wrap the
body in warm blankets, and place it near the fire, and do
everything to preserve the natural warmth as well as to im-
part artificial heat if possible. Avoid all friction until
respiration is in some degree established. It is best to send
for medical aid immediately.
552 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
ANTIDOTES FOR POISONS
If any poison is swallowed, drink immediately a half-glass
of tepid water with a heaping teaspoonful each of common
salt and ground mustard. This vomits as soon as it reaches
the stomach, but for fear that some of the poison may still
remain, swallow the white of one or two eggs, or drink a
cup of strong black coffee these two being antidotes for
a greater number of poisons than any other dozen articles
known, with the advantage of their always being at hand.
For oil of vitriol or aquafortis, give large doses of magnesia
and water. For ammonia, give vinegar freely. For oxalic
acid, give magnesia or chalk and water, administered in
large and frequently-repeated doses. For saltpetre, give an
emetic of mustard and water, afterwards mucilage and
small doses of laudanum. For opium or laudanum, give
an emetic of mustard and water; use constant motion,
and, if possible, a stomach pump ; also, strong, black
coffee. For arsenic, doses of magnesia are useful, but
freshly-prepared hydrated oxide of iron is best. For insects
taken into the stomach, give small quantities of vinegar and
salt. For corrosive sublimate, give the whites of eggs mixed
with water until free vomiting takes place.
FOR BURNS
Lime water and sweet oil well mixed in equal quantities is
one of the very best remedies for a burn. Lime and lard,
well mixed, are also good.
TO REMOVE IRON MOULD FROM LINEN
Rub the iron mould over with sulphuret of potash, then
bathe it well in citric acid (lemon juice) and afterwards
wash it well in water.
TO REMOVE INK STAINS FROM LINEN
Bathe the stains freely with lemon juice, sprinkle thickly with
fine salt, and place in the sun a few hours.
GATHERED CRUMBS 553
TO TAKE OUT MILDEW
Wet the article and rub on it equal parts of soap and chalk
mixed together, then place in the sun until the spots dis-
appear.
STARCH FOR DARK CALICOES
Make starch as usual, and add to it one pint of perfectly
clear coffee. Strain and add a tiny piece of spermaceti.
The color may be set in doubtful calicoes by dipping
them in a strong solution of salt and water before washing.
TO MEND CHINA
Take a very thick solution of gum arabic and water, and
stir into it plaster of paris until the mixture becomes a
viscous paste. Apply it with a brush to the fractured edges
and stick them together. In three days the article cannot
be broken in the same place. The whiteness of this cement
renders it doubly valuable.
TO KEEP LEMONS
Cover with cold water, changing it every week. This
makes them ripe and juicy.
MISCELLANEOUS
Cranberries will keep all winter in a keg of water.
Clean brass kettles before using with salt and vine-
gar, to avoid being poisoned by the verdigris.
A few drops of oil of lavender here and there through
a bookcase will save a library from mould.
To cleanse articles made of white zephyr, rub in flour
and magnesia, changing often. Shake off the flour and
hang the article in the sun.
Spots in calico or cloth produced by an acid may be
restored by touching the spots with spirits of hartshorn.
Spots produced by an alkali may be removed by moisten-
ing them with vinegar or tartaric acid.
To clean velvet and make it look like new, invert a hot
flat-iron, put over it a thickness of wet muslin, lay on this
the velvet, wrong side next to the muslin, and brush the
velvet gently as it steams, drawing it over the iron.
HOW
TO LARD
Larding pork should be salt, solid, and clear fat without
any streaks of lean. Cut into thin even slices, and cut
these slices into long narrow strips, that will fit the larding-
needle you intend to use. For Beef a la Mode the lardoons
should be about the size of a lead-pencil. For veal, turkey,
chicken, birds or sweetbreads, they should be about half
that size. About one inch from the rind of the pork you
will notice a decided mark or streak ; below this and near-
est the rind, is the muscular part of the pork, and the only
part that can be used for larding. Above this the pork is
so tender that it will break when you put it in the needle.
After you cut these strips (lardoons they are now called),
put them into a bowl of very cold water to harden. Place
one lardoon into the slot end of the larding-needle as far
as it will go, thrust the needle into the meat, taking a stitch
about one inch deep, push the needle through, place the fin-
ger lightly on the strip of pork, and draw the needle out,
leaving the pork exposed about a quarter-inch at each end
of the stitch, and so continue until you have finished.
TO LARD WITH TRUFFLES
Cut the truffles into tiny blocks, insert the truffle-needle (a
hollow needle with a sharp point and a wire rod to push
the truffle through) under the skin, and just a little into
the flesh. Now put a block of the truffle into the large end
of the needle and push it through into the meat with the
wire rod, and so continue until you have finished.
(554)
HOW 555
TO FRY
Frying, though one of the most common of the culin-
ary operations, is one that is least commonly performed
perfectly well. It often results in burning the outside,
while the inside is cold, or serving the article in a coat-
ing of grease. It is very important, that the oil, lard,
or dripping should be very hot (about 360 Fahr.) before
the article is put in. We cannot insist too strongly on this
point. There should be sufficient fat to immerse the article
to be fried. If too many things are put in the fat at one
time they will be badly fried, because the temperature of
the fat will quickly fall l>elow the point necessary to fry
properly. The most successful frying is when the tempera-
ture rises four or five degrees during the frying. The tem-
perature of the fat should vary according to the nature of
the things fried. To ascertain when it is of the proper
heat without a thermometer, throw in a little bit of bread,
if it browns quickly the fat is ready; if it burns the bread,
it is too hot. Fish, potatoes, croquettes and rissoles, re-
quire the fat quite hot, say about 385 Fahr., doughnuts,
crullers and fritters 300 to 320 Fahr.
A wire frying-basket is very convenient for frying cro-
quettes, potatoes, etc.
TO BLANCH ALMONDS
Shell them, throw them into boiling water, and let stand
on the back part of the stove five minutes, then throw them
into cold water, and rub them between the hands to remove
the skins.
TO SALT ALMONDS
Shell, blanch and spread them out on a bright tin pie dish,
add a piece of butter the size of a hickory-nut, and stand
them in a moderate oven until a golden brown. Take
them from the oven, stir them around, dredge them thickly
with salt, and turn out to cool.
TO FILL ORANGES WITH JELLY
Cut a small round piece of the skin from the stem end,
then with your finger loosen the pulp from the skin and
gradually work your finger between the skin and pulp until
you have it entirely loosened. Now draw the pulp out
556 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
through the opening without breaking the skin. Throw
the skins into cold water until wanted. Have ready an
Orange or Wine Jelly, drain the orange skins, fill them with
the jelly, and stand away to cool. When cold, cut them
into halves and then into quarters, and arrange them on a
pretty dish, garnished with smilax.
TO MAKE ORANGE BASKETS
Mark out with a knife a basket and handle on the skin of
a large orange, then cut it out, loosen the pulp and remove
without breaking the skin. Throw the baskets into cold
water one or two hours to stiffen. Make a Port and Lemon
Jelly, and turn into square moulds to harden. When hard,
cut into blocks and fill the baskets. Stand the baskets on
a pretty dish, garnished with smilax and roses.
TO GLACE" FRUITS
Have the fruit perfectly dry. If oranges, separate carefully
each carpel without breaking the inner skin. Stand them
in a warm place to dry. Put one pound of granulated
sugar in a porcelain-lined kettle, add to it a half-cup of
water, and stand over the fire to boil. Do not stir after
the sugar is dissolved. After the mixture has been boiling
about ten minutes, hold the forefinger and thumb in ice-
water for a minute, then quickly dip up a little of the boil-
ing syrup with them ; press the thumb and finger tightly
together, then draw them apart ; if the syrup forms a thread,
it is at the second degree. Boil gently about three or four
minutes longer until it reaches the sixth degree. This may
be known by taking a small portion on the end of a spoon,
then dipping it into cold water, and breaking it off quickly ;
if it is brittle, without being at all sticky, it is just right.
The syrup must never be stirred, or it will cause granula-
tion. Now take it quickly from the fire, add a tablespoonful
of lemon juice, stand in a basin of boiling water, to keep
the syrup from candying. Take the fruit on the point of a
large skewer or with sugar tongs, dip into the syrup, lay on
a piece of buttered paper, and stand in a warm dry place
to dry.
English walnuts and almonds are glaced in the same
manner.
HOW 557
TO CLEAN CURRANTS
Add one cup of flour to every quart of currants and rub
them well between the hands. This will free them from
stones and stems. Then turn them into a colander and
skake until the stems have passed. Now put them in a pan
of cold water, wash thoroughly, drain and wash again.
Spread on boards or flat dishes, and stand in a warm place
to dry. When dry they are ready to use.
TO WHIP CREAM
Very thick cream should have an equal quantity of new
milk added to it before being whipped. But moderately
thick cream will whip nicely if ice cold. If you have a
small crank churn (you can get them that will hold about
two quarts), pour the cream into the churn and turn the
dasher steadily for about three minutes, and the cream will
be whipped all the way to the bottom. If you use the
ordinary whip churn, have the cream in a tin pail, placed
in a pan of ice-water. Stand a colander in a bowl or basin.
Put the whip churn into the cream, hold it with the left
hand, tilt slightly, that it may not stand flatly on the bot-
tom of the pail ; now with right hand draw the dasher up
quickly, then press it down hard, then up and down again,
and so on. When the pail is full, skim off the froth and
lay it in the colander to drain, and so continue until you
have whipped all the cream.
When whipped cream is to be served alone as a dessert
or as a garnish for Bavarian creams and other desserts, it
should be flavored before whipping.
TO MAKE A PASTRY-BAG
Fold a piece of very strong muslin (one foot square) from
two opposite corners. Fell the edges tightly together, thus
forming a triangular bag. Cut off the point to make an
opening large enough to insert a tin pastry tube. It is bet-
ter to have two or three pastry bags, each fitting their own
respective tubes.
TO USE THE PASTRY-BAG
Put the tin tube into the bag and fit it into the opening.
Fill the bag with the mixture, close the top of the bag,
558 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
give it a twist, and hold it tightly with the right hand.
Put the point of the tube close to the place where the
mixture is to be spread. Press with the left hand, and
guide the mixture into any shape desired, eclairs, lady-
fingers, etc.
TO MAKE A JELLY-BAG
Take one yard of thick all-wool flannel, fold the two oppo-
site corners together, fell the side, making a triangular bag.
Bind the top with heavy tape, and fasten on the upper side
two or three heavy loops by which it may be hung up.
TO THAW MEAT OR POULTRY
Stand in a warm room several hours before cooking.
TO BOIL WATER
Wash out the tea-kettle thoroughly, fill it with fresh cold
water, stand it over a quick fire and bring to boiling point.
Use at its first bubbles, or it parts with its gases and be-
comes flat.
TO CLARIFY FAT
A careful cook seldom buys lard ; she saves all the skim-
ming from soup, all trimmings from steaks, and the drip-
ping from roasts. Put the dripping to be clarified into a
saucepan, set it over a moderate fire until all the fat is
melted ; then strain into a clean pan, and add to every
three pounds of this fat a pint of boiling water and a quar-
ter-teaspoonful of baking-soda. Stand over a moderate
fire, and boil until the water has evaporated and the fat is
clear. Skim, strain through a fine sieve into a tin kettle,
and it is ready to use.
TO SCALD MILK
Put the milk in a basin or farina boiler, stand it in a pan
of boiling water over the fire, and as soon as the milk be-
gins to steam it is scalded.
TO MAKE VANILLA-SUGAR
One pound of granulated sugar and one ounce of vanilla
bean. Cut the beans into halves, then into small pieces;
HO IV 559
put them into a mortar with the sugar, and pound until per-
fectly fine. Sift through a hair sieve, and keep in glass
jars closely corked.
TO MAKE GUMBO FILLET POWDER
Take the very young tender leaves of the sassafras, spread
them out on white paper, and dry in a cool, dry, airy place.
When dry, pound in a mortar, press through a hair sieve,
and keep in a closely corked bottle.
TO MAKE CARAMEL
Put one cup of granulated sugar in an iron or granite
saucepan, stir it over the fire until it melts and burns. As
soon as it begins to smoke and boil, add one cup of boil-
ing water; let it boil one minute, turn in a bottle, and
cork tightly.
This is used for coloring soups, sauces, and puddings.
TO CLARIFY SUGAR
Put the desired quantity of sugar and water on to boil ;
mix with a small portion of cold water the white of one
egg, add it to the boiling syrup. Bring to boiling point,
skim, and strain.
HOW TO PULL CANDY
After boiling candy, turn it on a marble slab or a large
meat-plate to cool. When cool, but not cold, grease your
hands lightly with olive oil or butter, take the candy in
your hands, throw it over a large hook and pull it towards
you, and so continue until the candy is creamy. Make
the candy move, and not your hands, or you will blister
them quickly.
TO USE A SALAMANDER
A salamander is a round iron plate, to which is attached a
long handle. It is used to brown the surface of dishes
that cannot be placed in the oven. Heat it red hot and
then pass it over the top of the dish, being careful not to
hold it too close, or it will scorch. A very good salaman-
der is made from an ordinary iron fire-shovel.
SUITABLE COMBINATIONS
OF FOOD
Man has not only to complete and repair the structure
which constitutes his body, but has also to create heat in
more or less abundance according to the climate in which
he lives ; consequently to keep the body in a perfectly
healthy condition, he must employ a wise combination of
food. In perfect health he requires no rules. Nature
teaches him how to live. But deviations from the laws of
nature, blunt his instincts so that he can hardly tell what
nature is, and tempt him, not only to take greater quanti-
ties of food than his economy requires, but also of a more
stimulating nature. Idleness, want of mental occupation,
and self-indulgence often lead to over-feeding, and the im-
moderate use of alcoholic stimulants.
Food requirements vary with such wide limits in dif-
ferent individuals and different occupations that it is almost
impossible to lay down a general rule as to the quantity of
food required. In some persons the process of digestion is
so rapid that frequent meals are required, and if food is not
taken when the digestive organs call for it, a sensation of
sickening and faintness comes on and the appetite is lost.
In prisons or in the army, where all men breath the
same atmosphere and follow the same occupation, it is pos-
sible to establish approximately the amount of food re-
quired. In Edinburg, where a hundred prisoners were con-
fined, experiments were made to ascertain the smallest
amount of food required to keep the weight and strength
(560)
SUITABLE COMBINATIONS OF FOOD 561
of man in idleness. Seventeen ounces of food per day for
two months was given each man ; four ounces were muscle -
making or nitrogenous food ; the remaining thirteen ounces
heat and force-producing or carbonaceous food. During
this time eighteen men lost one and a half pounds each,
eighty-two held their own or gained weight. The same
experiment was tried in Dundee, but there they gave
molasses with their oatmeal instead of milk, as was given at
Edinburg. Fifty of their prisoners lost five pounds each,
while the remaining fifty held their own or gained weight.
By these and other statistics we find that the system requires
nearly five times as much carbonaceous as nitrogenous food.
A thorough acquaintance with these facts cannot be
too highly estimated. Two-thirds of all the intemperance
in the land is due to ill and unscientific feeding. When I
say ill-fed, I do not mean the poor who have scanty nour-
ishment, but also that class who indulge their acquired and
unnatural appetites in highly seasoned and over-nitrogenous
foods. We must keep steadily before us the principle that
it is not the quantity of food received which nourishes the
body, but the proportion that can be digested of such food,
all else is worse than waste, whose presence clogs and
throws out of order the delicate digestive organs. A man
may eat tijl he can take no more and still have an unsatisfied
feeling. His food has not been properly proportioned.
Each organ requires different elements, and each has the
power of taking up from the mass such as are required by
them and rejecting all others.
While we take food in the proportions to satisfy each
organ, peace and harmony prevail in the system, but let us
indulge in over or improper feeding, an excitement is at
once produced, and each organ makes an effort to reject its
enemy, and the whole system becomes "out of order," and
still we cannot read this lesson of nature, teaching us to
keep out of our stomachs everything but the proper
elements. How few there are who know why we serve
potatoes or rice with lean beef, why we put butter on our
bread, why it is better to eat sugar and cream on oatmeal
and grits, why we eat more fruit and less meat in summer
than in winter and vice versa.
562 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
To nourish ourselves properly, we must bear in mind
that during the process .of life we use up and cast away
matter which must be replaced by equal substances, and
we must find these supplies among such substances as con-
tain in them some of our own elements. Albumen must
be replaced by albumen, fibrin by fibrin ,, etc.
For convenience, here, we will divide our food into
three classes: nitrogenous, carbonaceous (organic), and
the inorganic foods. The nitrogenous foods, as the name
indicates, contain nitrogen. They have for their basis albu-
men, fibrin, gluten and casein. The principal foods of
this class are of animal origin, and eggs and milk. They
also exist in some vegetables, as gluten and legumen in
wheat, lentils and peas. This class contains a large amount
of nutriment, of such material as is easily converted into
living tissue. These foods are all digested in the stomach,
consequently, should not be given in conditions in which
this organ needs rest. Belonging to the carbonaceous foods
are the starches, sugars and fats. The first two are of vege-
table origin, while the latter is produced by vegetables and
animals. The chief use of this class is to give heat and
force to the body, and constitutes about three-fourths of
our food. Consequently, if we wish to develop our mus-
cles, we must eat lean beef (nitrogenous) ; if we wish to
fortify ourselves against cold, we must eat fat. The car-
bonaceous foods, being fat-formers, should not be taken in
larger quantities than the economy requires by persons cor-
pulently inclined.
The third class, the inorganic foods water, salt, phos-
phate of lime and iron, cannot in themselves support life,
yet we could not live without them. Water enters into the
composition of all the body's tissues. Salt is found in
almost all our natural foods, but not in sufficient quantity
to supply the demand of the system. Iron exists in both
animal and vegetable foods in sufficient quantity to supply
the economy in perfect health. Phosphate of lime is also
supplied in both animal and vegetable foods in sufficient
quantity when the system is in perfect health ; and thus it
is seen that each sort of food must fulfill one or more of
the body's requirements ; and, as a large proportion of the
TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 563
food we consume must be composed of carbon and hydro-
gen, and is burnt up in the capillary tissues to create heat
and force, this class represented by potatoes, rice, oils and
sugars must be taken in larger quantities than lean beef,
eggs, etc. Bartholow says : " The food supplies to the or-
ganism may be so managed as to secure very definite therapeu-
tical results, and by employment of a special and restricted
method of feeding, cures may be effected not attainable by
medicinal treatment,"
TABLE OF
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES
4 teaspoon fuls of liquid = 1 tablespoonful
4 tablespoonfuls of liquid . . . . = j gill, % cup, or
I wineglassful
i tal.lespoonful of liquid . . . = K oun ce
1 pint of liquid . . . . = I pound
2 gills of liquid = i cup or } pint
I kitchen cup == X P mt
I heaping quart of sifted flour . . . . = I pound
4 cups of flour . . . . . . = i quart or I pound
I rounded tablespoonful of flour . . . = l / z ounce
3 cups of corn meal . . . . . = I pound
I ^ pints of corn meal . . . . . = I pound
i cup of butter . . . . . . = y z pound
i pint of butter . . . . . . = i pound
I tablespoonful of butter . . . . = I ounce
Butter the size of an egg . . . . . = 2 ounces
Butter the size of a walnut . . . = I ounce
1 solid pint of chopped meat . . . . = I pound
lo eggs - .... . . = I pound
A dash of pepper /4 teaspoonful,
or 3 good shakes
2 cups of granulated sugar . . . . = I pound
I pint of granulated sugar , . . . = I pound
I pint of brown sugar . . . . . = 13 ounces
2.y z cups of powdered sugar . . . . = i pound
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The author takes pleasure in acknowledging her indebted-
ness for many valuable points embodied in this work to :
Bellows' Philosophy of Eating
Bartholovv's Materia Medica and Therapeutics
Youmans' Household Science.
Bennett's Nutrition in Health and Disease
Dobell's Diet and Regimen
Lady Barker's First Lessons in Principles of Cooking
Dr. Getchell's Diet in Disease
Mattieu Williams' Chemistry of Cooking
Cook books by Dr. Kitchener, Blot,Warne, Francatelli,
Gouffe, Soyer, Mrs. Henderson, Miss Parloa, Miss Leslie,
Mrs. Lincoln, Mrs. Beeton ; to "Margery Daw In the
Kitchen," the "Buckeye," "Ice Cream and Cakes," and
Buckmaster's Cookery.
INDEX
Acknowledgement 564
Apples, To Coddle 516
Beans, French ''
Adirondack Corn Bread 321
To Stew 516
Kidney 266
A pate Ware 547
Apricot Bavarian Cream 415
Lima 266
Albumen 80
Ice Cream 447
Lima, Dried 266
Aikathrepta 543
Layer Cake 492
Puree of 291
Allomande Sauce 522
Apr! cote, Frozen 462
PurSe of Dried 267
Almonds, To Blanch 555
Artichokes, French 264
Puree of Lima 291
To Glac6 556
Jerusalem 264
String 266
To Salt 555
Aspic Jelly 469
String, Salad of 240
Anchovy Sauce 523
Asparagus in Ambush 265
Bear Meat 200
Angel Food 488
Boiled 265
Steaks 206
Angels' Snow 431
Salad 240
Bearnaise Sauce 223
Antidotes for Poisons 552
8oup,Cream of 24
Beauregard Eggs 254
Apees 496
Stewed 265
Bechamel Sauce 223
Apple Charlotte 414
Beef 82
Dowdy 431
Bacon, Boiled 151
Baked or Roasted in
Dumplings
Fried 151
Oven 83
' No. 1 426
Banana Ice Cream 447
Baked, rib, with
No. 2 426
Bananas 513
Yorkshire Pudding 83
Jelly 470
Frozen 463
Bouilli 94
Meringue 431
Barbecued Ham 149
Cannelon 91
Pie 375
Barley 353
To Corn, for Boiling 102
Pudding 395
Boiled 355
To Corn, for Drying 101
Sago 430
Soup 3
Corned, to Boil 102
Sauce 223
Soup, Cream of 24
Corned, Hash of 97
Slump 432
Basket, Frying 656
Corned, Pressed 102
Snow 432
Bass, Fried 44
Croquettes 100
Sponge 428
Bath Buns 477
Dried, Fricassee of 103
Tapioca 429
Bavarian Creams 415
Dried, Relish of 103
Tart 376
Bean Croquettes 267
Fillet, Broiled 87
Apples 513
Polenta 267
Fillet, Larded with
To Bake 515
Beans Baked with Pork 146
Mushroom Sauce 84
To Can 520 1 Butter 266
Frizzled 103
(565)
566
PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Beef, Grenadines of 9
Beef's Tongue, Turkish
Brandy Jelly 468
Hamburg Steaks 88
style 111
Peaches 525
a la Mode 85
Beet Salad 240
Sauce 433
a la Mode, Ragout of 92
Beets, Boiled 268
Braising 81
Olives 89
Birds, To Keep Fresh 202
Brass Kettles, To Clean 553
Pickled 100
Bird's Nest Pudding,
Bread 311
Pot Roast 84
Cold 399
Boston Brown 321
Pressed No. 1 95
Hot 390
Corn 320
Pressed No. 2 96
Biscuit G laces No. 1 45")
Corn, Adirondack 321
Pressed, Corned 102
No. 2 455
Corn, Hot 322
Roast 82
Biscuits, Bread 326
French 316
Rouleau, en 90
Egg 340
Graham 321
Spiced 94
Maryland 340
Milk 317
Steak, Broiled 86
Potato No. 1 324
Milk with Potato
Steak, Panned 88
Potato No. 2 325
Sponge 317
Steak, Pie 99
Rye 337
Norwegian 320
Steak, Rolled 88
Soda 337
Rye 319
Steak, smothered in
Tea No. 1 323
Salt Rising * 318
Onions 87
Tea No. 2 324
Southern Rice 322
Stew with Dump-
Virginia 339
Stirred 318
lings 95
Blackberries 515
Sweet Potato 319
Stew with Okra 95
To Can 521
Water 317
Stuffed, Stew of 93
Blackberry Flummery 516
Bread Biscuit 326
Beef ' s Heart, Baked 104
Jam 523
Cake 475
Heart, Spiced 104
Jelly 471
Doughnuts 314
Heart, Stewed 103
Mush 516
Omelet 259
Heart with Veal
Pie 379
Sauce 224
Stuffing 105
Pudding 390
Stuffing 220
Kidney, Saut< 106
Sponge 428
Bread and Butter Pud-
Kidney, Stewed 105
Vinegar 543
ding 399
Kidney, Terrapin
Blackbird Pie 213
Breaded Chops 115
style 106
Blanc Mange 412
Breakfast Hominy 354
Liver, Braised 135
Fruit 412
Relish 124
Liver, to Corn for
Blanquette of Chicken 183
Sausage 156
Drying 106
Bleeding, To Stop 551
Broccoli 268
Liver, Corned,
Bluefish, Fried 44
Broma 543
To Frizzle 106
Bobotee 98
Brown Betty 433
Liver, Dried Fri-
Boiling and Stewing 92
Fricasse of Chicken 171
cassee of 103
Boeuf en Rouleau 90
Sauce No. 1 224
Liver, Fried 107
Bologna Sausage 154
Sauce No. 2 224
Tongue, Braised 110
Bombe Glace" 456
Sauce No. 3 225
Tongue, Fillets of 112
Boned Chicken 188
Brunswick Stew 174
Tongue, Larded
Turkey 194
Brushes 369
and Spiced m
Bordeaux Sauce 529
Brussels Sprouts 269
Tongue,
Boston Brown Bread 321
Buckwheat 354
To Smoke 100
Brown Hash 98
Cakes 329
Tongue, Smoked,
Boudins & la Reine 180
Buffalo Steaks 206
To Boil 109
Bouillon 11
Buns 475
Tongue on Toast 112
Bouletteg 294
Burns 552
INDEX
567
Butter Beans 266
Cake, Lady Fingers 503
Canned Pears 521
Fairy or Nun's 438
Layer 492
Pineapples 5*21
Maitre D' Hotel 229
Layer, Apricot 492
Plums, Blue 522
Making 550
Layer, Chocolate 493
Plums, Damson 522
Buttermilk Cake 483
Layer, Peach 494
Quinces 521
Griddle Cakes 336
Layer, Raspberry 494
Raspberries 522
Layer, Straw b'ry 494
Strawberries 522
Cabbage, Boiled 269
Marble 487
Cannelon 91
Cold Slaw - 241
Molasses No. 1 484
Canning and Preserving 510
Red, a la Fla-
Molasses No. 2 485
Cantaloupe 515
mande 270
Moravian Sugar 475
Spiced 527
Stewed 269
Plunkets 503
Caper Sauce 525
Stuffed 270
Pork 484
Capons 191
Corned Beef
Pound 4M
Caramel 559
and 269
Ribbon 495
Bavarian Cream 416
Cabinet Pudding 891
Sand Tarts 498
Ice Cream 452
Cafe Parfait 466
Scotch 500
Sauce 436
Cake, Angel Food 488
Short 837
Carp, Stewed 51
Apees 4%
Short, Cream 338
Carpets, To Make Bright 550
Bread 475
Short, Strawb'ry 413
Carrots, Stewed 271
Buttermilk 483
Shrewsbury 499
Casserole of Chicken 185
Chocolate 482
Snaps, Ginger 500
Catsup, Cucumber 632
Chocolate feclaire 602
Snaps, Jackson 500
Mushroom 532
Cocoanut Layer 493
Spice i^
Tomato No. 1 533
Cocoauut Loaf 487
Sponge 488
Tomato No. 2 533
Cookies, Ginger 497
Sponge, Cream 4%
Tomato, Cold 534
Cookies, Plain 497
Sunshine !-'.'
Walnut 534
Cream Pufis 501
Wafers, Lemon 499
Catsups 532
Cup, or 1, 2, 3, 4 489
White Mountain 494
Cauliflower, Boiled 272
Cup, Plain 486
Calf s Brains 134
auGratin 272
Dominoes 500
Foot Jelly 469
Salad 241
KgL;s, without 483
Head Cheese 132
Stewed 272
Km it No. 1 490
Head, Dressed
Cecils 99
Kruit No. 2 490
No. 1 133
Celery au Jus 273
Fruit, Coffee 492
No. 2 134
Root 273
Kruit, Dried 484
Calicoes, Dark, to starch 553
Salad 241
Gingerbread 485
To remove spots in 553
Sauce 225
Gingerbread, Soft 485
Candies 509
Stewed 273
Grafton 482
Candy, Cream 510
Cellar, Care of
Hickory Nut 486
Cream, Rose 511
Cereals 351
Hoe 388
Molasses 510
Champagne Sauce 226
Ice Cream 493
Molasses, Peanut 510
Charlotte, Apple 414
Indian Loaf 483
M..liisses, Walnut 510
Parisian 415
Jelly 494
Taffy 509
Russe 414
Johnny 339
How to Pull 559
Cheese 363
Jumbles No. 1 498
Canned Apples 520
Cake 876
Jumbles No. 2 498
Blackberries 521
Cream, with
Kisses 502
Currants 522
Noodles 3%
Lady 489
Peaches 521
Fingers 365
Golden Buck 365
Italian 132
568
PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Cheese Omelet 259
Chicken, a 1'Italienne 181 j Chow Chow 528
Ramakins 366
In Jelly 187 ; Chowder, Clam 34
Souffle" 363
Larded and
Corn . 35
Straws 365
Roasted 169
Fish 35
Toasted or Scotch
Livers en bro-
Potato 36
Rare-bit 364
chette 183
Chowders 31
Welsh Rare-bit 364
a la Marengo 173
Cinnamon Bun 478
Cherries, To Can 522
Omelet 259
Clam Chowder 34
Cream 512
Pie, Baked 184
Fritters 62
Frozen 463
Pilaff of 174
Clams 62
Spiced 527
Pot- pie 184
Fried 62
Cherry Jelly 472
Pressed 191
Pickled 62
Pie 376
Roasted, with
To Roast 62
Pudding 390
Giblet Sauce 167
Stewed 62
Tapioca 430
Salad 236
Cocoa 542
Water Ice 459
Smothered 170
Nibs 542
Chestnuts, Boiled 274
Souffle" 185
From the Nibs 543
Pure"e of 274
Soup 13
Cocoanut Cake, Layer 493
Sauce 226
Spring, Broil' d 176
Cake, Loaf 487
Stewed 274
Stewed 172
Custard 377
Stuffing 169
Stuffed with Pudding 400
With Brown
Chestnuts 169
Coddled Apples 516
Sauce 274
au Supreme 172
Codfish Balls 48
Chicken, To Clean 165
a la Tartare 176
Fresh, To Boil 42
Giblets, To Clean 167
Terrapin 180
Salt, To Boil 43
To Select 167
Vol-au-Vent 386
Salt, Avith Cream
Chicken, a la Be"chamel 182
Chili Vinegar 535
Sauce 48
Blanquette of 183
China, To Mend 553
Salt, Stewed 48
Boiled 169
Chocolate 542
Cold Puddings 399
Boned 188
Bavarian Cream 416
Cold Slaw 241
Boudins a la
Cake 482
Coffee 539
Reine 180
Cake, Layer 493
Boiled 541
Braised 170
Caramels No. 1 509
French 540
Broiled 176
Caramels No. 2 509
Coffee, Bavarian Cream 416
Casserole of 185
Eclairs 502
Frozen 466
Cecils - 180
Ice Cream 449
Fruit Cake 492
Chaud Froid
Ice Cream, Nea-
Combinations of Food,
of 182
politan 453
Suitable 560
Chops 176
Icing 504
Consomme" 13
Croquettes 178
Parfait 457
Cooks, Advice to 357
Curry of 175
Pudding 400
Corn 353
Cutlets 177
Chocolates, Cream 511
Boiled on Cob 275
Deviled 182
Chops, Lamb 121
Boiled in Husks 275
Forcemeat 219
Breaded 115
Bread 320
Fricassee of
Breaded, with a
Bread,Adirondack 321
Brown 171
Pur<e of Potatoes 115 Canned, To Cook 277
Fricassee of
Broiled 115 Canned, Fritters of 276
White 171
Broiled, with a Pu- Chowder
Fried 175
roe of Potatoes 115 Cold 278
INDEX
569
Corn Dodgers 338
Croquante of Peaches 421
Custard, Quaking 424
Dried, 278
Raspberries 423
Rice 424
Eat, How to 275
Strawberries 422
Souffle 425
Fritters 275
Croquettes, Bean 267 ! Tapioca 425
Gems 331
Chicken 178 Custards, Cup 423
Griddle Cakes 337
Ham 149
Farina 425
Hulled 154,806
Hominy 282
Oysters 276
Macaroni 361 Dandelion Salad _'_'
I'udding 276
6yster 72 Dandelions, Boiled 280
Salad 242, 278
Potato Wilted 280
Corned Beef 101
Rice No. 1 357
Desserts 412
Beef and Cabbage 989
Rice No. 2 a57
Apple Dowdy 431
Beef Hash 97
Salmon 50
Apple Meringue 431
Beef s Liver 106
Shad Roe 50
Apple Sago 430
Corn-starch Custard 423
Sweetbread 141
Apple Slump 432
Cottage Pudding 892
Veal 124
Apple Snow 432
Crab Apple Jelly 471
Crullers 344
Bavarian Cream
Crab Salad 237
French 345
Apricot 415
Crabs 58
German 345
Chocojate 416
Boiled 59
Crumpets 827
Coffee 416
Deviled 59
Cucumber Catsup 532
Peach 417
Soft Shell 59
Mad 241'
Pineapple 417
Soft, Fried in But-
Cucumbers, Fried 279
Plum 417
ter 60
Fri.Ml in Batter 279
Raspberry 417
Cracked Whi-nt 3M
St. wed No. 1 278
Strawberry 418
Cranberries, To Keep 553
Sh-wi-.l N.I. -J -J79
Blanc Mange 412
Cranberry Jelly 472
Cup. or 1, -2, :'.. 1 dike, 486
Blanc Mange
Pie No. 1 377
Cup Cu-'.nnls 423
Fruit 412
Pie No. 2 377
Currant Jelly 472
Brown Betty 433
Sauce 226
Jelly Sauce 227
Cake, Cream Pie 413
>t,-wcd 517
Sponge 429
Charlotte, Apple 414
Tarts 877
Currants
Charlotte,
Craw- Fish 60
Dried, To Clean 557
Parisian 415
Civ.-nn Cake Pie
Fresh, To Serve 514
Charlotte Russe 414
Candy 510 Currants and Raspber-
Cream
('andy, Rose 511
ries, Caniu-d 522
American 418
Cherri.-s 512
Curry, Chicken 175
Fried 418
Chocolates 511
Mutton 116
Hamburg 419
Dates 511
Sauce 227
Italian 419
Pie 377
rusk ;" la Creme 49
Orange 419
Puffs 501
Custard, Cocoanut 377
Snow 420
Salad Dressing 236
l.'Mii'in 379
Tapioca 420
Sauce 226
I.emon, Grand-
Velvet 420
Sauce, Pudding 436
mother's 379
Croquante of
Sponge Cake 496
Sweet Potato 383
Oranges 422
Tomato Sauce 332 White Potato 3S4
Peaches 421
Cream, To Whip 557
Custard, Bak.-.l 422
Raspberries 422
rrc;ii;iy Sauce 437
Corn-starch 423
Strawberries 422
Croquante of Oranges 422
French 423
Custard, Baked 422
570
PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Desserts, Custard
Dominoes 500
English Muffins 327
Corn-starch 423
Doughnuts 343
Plum Pudding 396
French 423
Bread 344
Walnuts, Glace 556
Quaking 424
Drawn Butter 227
Rice 424
Dress, Cooks' 368
Fairy or Nun's Butter 438
Souffle" 425
Dressing, Salad 235
Fancy Cakes 480
Tapioca 425
Salad, Cream 236
Farina 352, 355
Custards, Cup 423
Salad, French 235
Custards 425
Farina425
Salad, without
Fat 79
Dumplings
Oil 235
To Clarify 558
Apple No. 1 426
Mayonnaise 234
To Test Heat of 555
Apple No. 2 426
Drinks 539
Fibrin 79
Peach 427
Drowned.To Resuscitate
Fire, Care of 367
Rice 427
the 551
Fish 41
Floating Island 433
Ducklings, to Roast 197
To Boil 42
Gooseberry Fool 433
Ducks, Roasted 196
To Broil 44
Orange Cake with
Ragout of 197
Chowder 35
Vanilla Sauce 413
Salmi of 198
Craw 60
Orange Float 434
Wild 209
a la Creme 49
Pain Perdu 434
Dutched Lettuce 284
Croquettes 50
Rice, Meringue 434
To Fry 43
Rice Souffle 1 435
Earthen and Stone-
alaReine 49
Snow, Angels' 431
ware 548
Salad 238
Snow Balls 435
Eels 53
Sauce 228
Sponge, Apple 428
Fried 54
Sauces 221
Blackberry 428
Stewed 53
Shell 55
Currant 429
Egg Biscuits 310
Flannel Cakes 329
Lemon 429
Egg-Plant, Baked 281
Floating Island 433
Orange 429
Fried No. 1 281
Flounders, Fried 44
Raspberry 429
Fried No. 2 281
Foamy Sauce 437
Strawberry 429
Eggs 253
Food, Combinations of 560
Strawberry Short
Baked 253
Requirements 560
Cake 413
Bcauregard 254
Foods, Carbonaceous 562
Tapioca, Apple 429
a la Bechamel 254
Fat Forming 562
Cherry 440
Boiled 255
Inorganic 552
Orange 430
Breakfast 255
Nitrogenous 562
Peach 430
a la Cr6me 255
Forcemeat Balls 12
Raspberry 430
Deviled 256
Chicken 219
Strawberry 431
Fondue 256
Ham 219
Tout Fait 435
Fried 257
Forcemeats and
Deviled Chicken 182
in Marinade 257
Stuffings 219
Crabs 59
sur le Plat 257
French Artichokes 204
Eggs 256
Poached 258
Bread 316
Halibut 50
Salad 242
Custard 423
Lobster 57
Sauce 228
Dressing 235
Oysters 71
Scrambled 258
Fritters 341
Dinner-Giving for
Stuffed 258
Honey 549
Sensible People 247
Endive 281
Rolls 323
Dock, Sour or Narrow 280
Salad 242
Fricandeau of Veal 126
INDEX
571
Fricandelles of Veal 125
Fruits, To Can 519
Green Gooseberry Pie 378
Fried Cream 418
Frozen 462
Grape Jelly 473
Fritters, Doughnuts,
To Glac6 566
Peas 290
Crullers, etc. 341
To Preserve 522
Tomato Pickles 529
Canned Corn 276
To Serve, Fresh 513
Grenadines of Beef 91
Clam 62
Stewed 517
Griddle Cakes 328
Corn 275
Fry, How to 555
Bread, Stale 335
French 341
Buckwheat 329
Fruit 341
Galantine of Turkey 195
Buttermilk 336
Japanese 342
Veal 130
Corn 337
Oyster 72
Game 202
Flannel 329
Parsnip 289
Care of 202
Flannel, Quick 335
Plain 341
Game Pie 214
Graham 330
Quecu 343
Gathered Crumbs 549
Indian 335
Salsify 301
Gathering the Perfume
Oat Meal 334
Snow 342
of Plants 550
Rice 329, 334
Frizzled Beef 103
Geese and Goslings 198
Wheat, Granu-
Frogs 54
Gelatine 1
lated 330
Fried 64
Gelatine Icing 505
Grits or Small Hominy 282
Stewed 64
Jellies 467
Fried 282
Frozen Apricots 462
Gems 331
Grouse, To Broil 212
Bananas 463
Corn 331
To Roast -11
Cherries 463
Graham 832
Guinea Fowls 199
Mixed Fruits
Graham, with
Fricassee of 199
No. 1 463
Dates 332
Pot-pie 200
Mixed Fruits
Graham, Hygienic 332
Gumbo Fillet Powder 659
No. 2 464
General Satisfaction 378
Oranges 464
Ginger Cookies 491
Halibut, Broiled 45
Peaches 464
Snaps 500
Deviled 50
I 'in nipple 464
Gingerbread 485
Fried 44
Raspberries 465
GlacS, How to 556
Pickled 52
Strawberries 465
Golden Buck 365
Steak a la
Frozen Fruits 462
Goose, To Roast 198
Flamaude 45
Frozen Coffee 466
Stuffed with
Ham, To Bake 148
Custard 454
Sauerkraut 199
Balls 90, 150
Orange Souffle" 457
Wild 210
Barbecued 149
Punch 465
Gooseberries, Stewed 517
Boiled 147
Tea 466
Gooseberry Fool 433
Boiled in Cider 147
Frozen Puddings 408
Gooseberry Pie, Green 378
Broiled 148
Frozen Soufllrs 457
Ripe 379
Croquettes 1 w
Fruit Blanc Mange 412
Grafton Cake 482
Forcemeat 219
Cake No. 1 490
Graham Bread 321
Fried 148
Cake No. 2 490
Gems 332
Omelet 259
Fritters 341
Griddle Cakes 330
Sandwiches 150
Jollies 470
Grape Jam 52 1
and Eggs 149
Salad Dressing
Jelly 473
and Egg Sand-
No. 1 243
Water-Ice 460
wiches 150
No. 2 244
Grapes, To Serve 514
Hams and Shoulders,
Fruits 5i:?
Gravies 221
To cure 151
572
PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Hamburg Cream 419
Ice Cream, Philadelphia
Jelly, Grape 473
Steaks 88
Pineapple 450
Grape, Green 473
Hard Sauce 4S8
Pistachio 451
Lemon 467
Haricot of Mutton 119
Raspberry 451
Mixed 468
Hash, Baked No. 1 96
Strawberry 452
Orange 467
Baked No. 2 97
Vanilla 452
Peach 473
Boston Brown 98
Neapolitan 452
Pear 474
Corn Beef 97
Caramel 452
Plum 474
Plain 97
Chocolate 453
Port Wine 467
Sheep's head 120
Vanilla 453
Quince 474
On Toast 97 Ice Cream Cake 493
Raspberry 474
Hashes and Warmed- Ice Creams 445
Rock Work of 468
over Meats 96 Iced Cake . 456
Strawberry 474
Heart, Beef's, Baked 104
Icing, Boiled 505
Wine 467
Beefs, Spiced 104
Chocolate 504
Jelly Bag, To Make 558
Beefs, Stewed 103
Gelatine 505
To Wash 369
Beef's, with Veal
Orange 504
Jelly Cake 494
Stuffing 105
Plain 504
Jelly, To fill Oranges
Herring, Fried 44
Strawberry 504
with 555
Hickory-nut Cake 486
Icings or Frostings 504
Jerusalem Artichokes 264
Hoe Cake 338
Indian Griddle Cakes 335
Pickled 264
Hominy 354
Loaf Cake 483
Johnny Cake 339
Boiled 281
Pudding - 393
Jolly Boys 342
Breakfast 354
Ink Stains, To Remove 552
Jumbles No. 1 498
Croquettes 282
Intemperance 561
No. 2 498.
Muffins 326
Intestines, Hog's,
Hot Corn Bread 322
To Clean 153
Kale 282
Hot Pot 117
Irish Stew 119
Kettles, Brass, To Clean 553
Hot Puddings 389
Iron Mould, To Remove 552
Soup 2
How 554
Iron Ware 547
Kidney Beans 266
Huckleberry Pie 379
Italian Cheese 132
Kidney Saute" 106
Hulled Corn 354, 355
Cream 419
Stewed 105
Hygienic Graham Gems 332
Terrapin style 106
Jackson Snaps 500
Kidneys, Sheep's en bro-
Ice Cream
Jam, Blackberry 523
chette No. 1 120
Philadelphia
Grape 524
No. 2 121
Alaska Bake 455
Jellied Veal 129
Kisses 502
Apricot 447
Jellies 467
Kitchen and Pantry, In
Banana 447
Jelly, Apple 470
the 544
Biscuit 448
Aspic 469
Kitchen Utensils,
Bisque 448
Blackberry 471
Agate Ware 547
Brown Bread 448
Brandy 468
Earthen and Stone
Burnt Almond 447
Calf's Foot 469
Ware 548
Caramel 448
Cardinal 468
Iron and Steel Ware 547
Chocolate 449
Cherry . 472
Miscellaneous 548
Coffee 449
Crab Apple 471
Tin Ware 515
Lemon 450
Cranberry 472
Wooden Ware 546
Orange 450
Currant 472
Knives, To Wash 369
Peach 450
Damson 473
Knuckle of Veal 128
INDEX
573
Kohl-rabi 271
Lobster Sauce 228
Meats, To Thaw 558
Krapfen 479
Scalloped 57
Menus 249
Vol-au-Vent 386
Mildew, To take out 553
Lady Cake 489
with Cecil Sauce 58
Milk Bread 317
Fingers 503
with Cream Sauce 58
with Potato
Lamb 121
Lobsters, To Boil and
Sponge 317
Baked or Roasted
Open 55
Milk, To Scald 558
Quarter of 121
Lyonnaise Potatoes 296
Mince Meat 381
Chops 121
Mint Sauce 229
Larding 554
Macaroni 358
Mirlitons 382
With Truffles 554
Baked 359
Mixed Fruits, Frozen
I.nnloons 554
Boiled, Plain 361
No. 1 463
Lay i-r Cake 492
Cream 359
No. 2 464
Lemon Butter 549
Croquettes 861
Pickles 527
Custard 879
al'Italienne 358
Mock Mince Pie 382
Jelly 467
Timbale 362
Turtle Soup 16
Pickle 530
with Brown
Molasses Cake No. 1 4H4
Pie 380
Sauce 362
Cake No. 2 485
Sauce 438
with Cream
Candy 510
Sponge 429
Sauce 361
Candy, Peanut 510
Wafers 499
with Tomato
Candy.Walnut 510
Water-Ice 460
Sauce 360
Pie 382
Lemons, To Keep 553
Mackerel 41
Montrose Sauce 439
U'iu'1 Soup 6
Salt, Broiled 45
Moravian Sugar Cake 475
Lentils 282
Madeira Sauce 438
Mould, Iron.To Remove 552
Puree of
Maitred' Hotel Sauce 229
To Save a Library
Rico and 283
Mandarin Salad 244
from 553
Rolls 283
Mangoes 531
Muffins, Bread 333
Lettuce, Dutched 284
Marble Cake 487
Cream 332
Suliiil 242
Marbled Meat 186
English 327
Lima Beans 266
Marll)orough Pie 380
Hominy or G rits 326
Dried 2G6
Marmalade, Orange 524
Plain 326
Puree of 291
Peach 524
Quick 331
Linen, To Remove Ink
Plum 525
Rice 326
Stains from 552
Quince 525
Muffins, Gems, etc.,
To Remove Iron
Marmalades and Jams 523
Raised 326
Mould from 552
Maryland Biscuit 340
Mush, Blackberry 516
Liver, Beef's, To Corn 10G
Mayonnaise Dressing 234
Oatmeal 355
Braised 135
..f Salmon 239
Rye 355
Broiled 136
of Sweetbreads 237
Mushrooms 284
Rolls 137
Measures, Table of
Baked 286
Stewed 136
Weights and 563
Broiled 286
and Bacon 136 Meat, Tressed No. 1 95
Canned, To Stew 286
and Onions 136
Pressed No. 2 96
Catsup 532
w i t h B ro w n Sauce 1 37
Rissoles 100
Dried 285
Lobster Chops f>7 Meat Sauces and Gravies 221
Sauce 229
Deviled 57
Meats, Chemistry of 79
Stewed No.l 285
Farci 56
Heat Applied to 80
Stewed No. 2 285
Salad 238
Loss of Weight in 81
with Cream Sauce 227
574
PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Mussels or Soft Shell
Clams 61
Mussels, Fried 61
Onion Stuffing 220
Onions, Baked, Boiled 288
Boiled in Soit
] Oysters, Broiled with
Brown Sauce 67
Creamed 66
Stewed 62
Water 261
Deviled 71
Mutton 112
Fried 288
Fricassee of 66
Baked, Leg of 113
Pickled 530
Fried, New York
Boiled, Leg of 113
Stewed 2S9
and Southern 69
Braised, Leg of 114 Opossums 208
Fried, Philadel-
Chinese 118
OrangeBaskets,To Make 556
phia 68
Curry of 116
Cakes, with
Kromeskies of 73
Haricot of 119
Vanilla Sauce 413
Macaroni, and 70
en Papillote 116
Cream 419
Panned 67
Ragout of 118
Float 434
Pickled 73
Saddle of 114
Scallop of 117
Icing 504
Jelly 467
Scalloped 69
Served in Block
Shoulder of 114
Marmalade 524
of Ice 64
Venison Style 113
Salad 244
Served on Half-
Nasturtium Blossom
Sauce 439
Shell 64
Salad 242
Sherbet 462
Stewed No. 1 65
Nevada Mountain
Souffl6, Frozen 457
Stewed No. 2 65
Honey 549
Sponge 429
Tripe, and 109
Noodles 366
Tapioca 430
VolauVentof 386
Norwegian Bread 320
Nougat No. 1, No. 2 512
Nun's Butter 438
Water-ice 460
Oranges 514
Filled with Jelly 555
Paganini Tartlets 383
Pain Perdu 434
Frozen 464
Pancakes 336
Oat Meal 355
To Glace" 556
Pantry and Kitchen 554
Griddle Cakes 334
Osmazome 1, 79
Parisian Charlotte 415
Mush 355
Oven, To Heat 367
Parker House Rolls 322
Oats 353
Oxford Sausage 154
Parsnip Fritters 289
Oiled Pickles 528
Oyster Plant, or Salsify 301
Parsnips 263
Okra, Boiled 287
Oyster Croquettes 72
Boiled with
Stewed, with rice 287
Filling for Poultry 74
Cream Sauce 289
Stewed, with
Fritters 72
Fried 289
Tomatoes 287
Loaf 71
Stewed 290
Olive Sauce 229
Patties 388
Partridges, To Broil 212
Omelet, Bengal 259
Salad 239
To Roast 211
Bread 259
Sauce 230
Paste, Plain, with
Cheese 259
Saute 70
Butter 373
Chicken 259
Oyster Crab Salad 239
Plain, Half and
Ham 259
Oysters 64
Half 374
Jelly 259
Baked 68
Plain with Lard 374
Parsley 259
a la Bechamel 66
Potato 375
Plain 258
Broiled, New
Puff 371
Potato 259
York Style 68
Puff, to Bake 372
Spanish 260
Broiled, Phila-
Suet 375
Omelet Souffle" 260
delphia Style 68
Pastry Bag 557
Onion Juice 156
Broiled on the
Pastry and Pies 371
Sauce 230
Gridiron 67
Pate de Foies Gras 387
INDEX
575
Patties
BH
Pickles, Mangoes 531
To Bake
388
Mixed 527
To Fill
338
Oiled 528
Peach Bavarian Cream
417
Tomatoes, Green 529
Dumplings
427
Sweet 626
Jelly
473
Pickling
Layer Cake
494
Pie, Apple 375
Marmalade
524
Apple Meringue 383
Meringue
383
Blackberry 379
Pie
M
Blackbird 213
Sauce
.;:;.<
Cherry 376
Sponge
428
Chicken, Baked 184
Tapioca
430
Chicken Pot IM
Peaches
514
Cranberry No. 1 377
Brandy
525
Cranberry No. 2 877
To Can
521
Cream 379
Frozen
464
Game 214
Spiced
526
Gooseberry, Green VB
Pea Fowls
200
Gooseberry, Ripe 379
Pear Jelly
474
Guinea Pot 200
Pears
514
Huckleberry 379
To Bake
517
Lemon 380
To Can
r.2i
Marlborough 380
Spiced
527
Mince 381
Stewed
517
Mock Mince 382
Peas, Canned, to Cook
291
Molasses 382
Green
290
Peach 383
Puree of
291
Pigeon 210
Pur6e of Drit-<l
268
Plum 879
I 'u nte of Split
268
Pumpkin 884
Pepper Grass
242
Rabbit 208
IVpprr Pot
20
Rabbit, Baked 184
Perfume of Plants
550
Raspberry 379
Pheasant, To Broil
212
Rhubarb 385
To Roast
211
Shepherd's 117
Phosphate of Lime
562
Squirrel 184
Pickle, Lemon
530
Strawberry 379
Pickled Artichokes
264
Veal 127
Clams
65
Veal Pot 127
Halibut
52
Washington 385
Onions
630
Pies, Pastry and 372
Oysters
73
Pig, Sucking,To Carve 143
Salmon
51
Sucking.To Prepare 142
Sturgeon
52
Sucking, To Roast 142
Walnuts
530
Pigeon Pie 210
Pickled Beef
100
Pigeons 200
Pork
151
Larded and
Pickles, Cucumbers,
Broiled 211
Small
530
Potted 200
Pigeons, Roasted 200
Pig's Feet Soused 145
Pilaff of Chicken 174
Pineapple 514
Bavarian Cream 417
Water Ice 461
Pineapples, To Can 521
Frozen 464
Piquante Sauce 231
Plain Cakes, Buns, etc., 475
Planked Shad 47
White Fish 47
Plovers, To Roast 212
Plum Bavarian Cream 417
Jelly 474
Marmalade 525
Pie 379
Plum Pudding, English 396
Pudding, Plain 396
Plums, Blue, To Can 522
Damson, To Can 522
Spiced 527
Plunkets 503
Poisons, Antidotes for 552
Poke Stalks 291
Pomegranate Water Ice 4f>l
Pomegranates 515
Pone 339
Pop Overs 333
Pork 142
Beans, and 146
Cake 484
Chops 145
Roast Leg of 144
Roast Loin of 144
To Pickle 152
Selecting 142
Tenderloins 146
Port Wine Sauce 230
Potato Biscuit No. 1 324
Biscuit No. 2 325
Chowder 36
Croquettes 294
Omelet 259
Paste 375
Puff 293
Salad 243
SoufflS 2:<8
Stuffing 220
576 PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Potatoes 262 Puddings
Puddings
Baked 298
Cold
Hot
Baked with
Bird's Nest 399 j French Fruit 394
Meat 298
Bread and
Huckleberry 390
a la Bechamel 295
Butter 399
Indian Baked 393
Boiled 292
Cocoanut 400
Indian
Boiled in Skins 292
Cream Choco-
Steamed 393
Fried 2%
late 400 i Long Ago 394
Fried, French 2%
Cream Cocoa- New Century 394
au Gratin 294
nut 401
Peach 395
Hashed 295
Cream Corn
Plum, English 396
Lyonnaise 296
Starch 401
Plum, Plain 396
Mashed 293
Dandy 401
Raspberry 390
Puree of 299
Gelatine 402
Roly Poly
Scalloped 295
Ileston 403
No. 1 397
Steamed 292
Lemon 404
No. 2 397
Stewed 293
Marlborough 403
Saratoga 395
Stuffed 298
Newport 403
Strawberry 390
Swelled 297
Orange 404
Suet 398
Sweet, Boiled 299
Quaking 404
Sweet Potato 397
Sweet, Fried 300
Queen of Ail 405
Tapioca 398
Sweet, Roasted 299
Queen Mab 405
Wafer 398
Sweet, Roasted
Royal Diplo-
Puddings and Desserts 389
under Meat 300
matic 406
Puff Paste 371
Sweot, Warmed
Snow 407 Pumpkin Baked 300
over 300
Wigwam 407 pi e 334
Poultry 165
Frozen 408 Preserved 523
Care of 167
Iced Cabinet 408 | Punch Frozen 465
To Clean 165
Iced Rice with
Roman 4G6
To Kill 165
a Compote of
Pur6e of Beans 291
To Pick 165
Oranges 411
Beans, Dried 268
To Select 167
Montrose 409
Beans, Lima 291
To Singe 165
My Queen 410
Chestnuts 274
To Thaw 167
Nesselrode 410
Lentils 268
Pound Cake 489
Hot 389
Peas 291
Powder, Gumbo Fillet 559
Amber 389
Peas, Dried 268
Racahout 543
Apple 395
Peas, Split 268
Prairie Fowls, To Broil 212
Baba 391
Potatoes 299
To Roast 211
Batter 389
Sorrel 302
Preserved Citron 523
Batter with
Fruits 522
Cherries 390
Quail, Broiled 212
Pumpkin 523
Bird's Nest 390
Roasted 211
Watermelon
Blackberry 390 Quaking Custard 424
Rind 523
Cabinet 390 | Quick Muffins, Waffles,
Preserving 522
Cottage 392
etc. 331
Prunes, To Stew 517
Cousin Caro-
Quince Jelly 474
Pudding, Corn 276
line's 392
Marmalade 525
Pudding Sauces 436
Date 395
Quinces, To Can 521
Puddings, Cold 399
Fig 394
Spiced 627
INDEX
577
Rabbit, Broiled 207 j Richmond Maids of
Salad, Turnip Tops 242
Fricassee of 207
Honor
3S5
Veal 237
Panned 207
Rissoles
100
Watercress 242
Pie, Baked 184
Roasting 80,
n
Salad Dressing 235
Pie, Pot 208
Robert Sauce
230
dressing, Cream 236
Rabbits or Hares 207
Rolls
322
Dressing, French 235
To Select 207
Roman Punch
466
Dressing, Fruit
Racahout 543
Rose, Perfume of
550
No. 1 243
Powder, To
Rusk
01
No. 2 244
Make 513
Ruta Baga
MM
Dressing, Mayon-
Raccoons 208
Rye
S>3
naise 234
Radishes 801
Biscuit
837
Dressing, with-
Ragout of Beef a la Mode 92
Bread
319
out Oil 296
Duck 197
Mush
855
Salads 233
Duck, Wild 201
Salamander 559
Mutton 118
Salad, Apple
244
To Use 559
Rail Birds 213
Apricot
244
Sally Lunn 327
Raspberries 515
Asparagus Tops
240
Salmi of Duck 198
To Can 522
Banana
244
Duck, Wild 201
Frozen 465
Beans, String
240
Squab 201
Raspberry Bavarian
Beets
240
Salmon, Broiled 45
Cream 417
Cauliflower
241
Croquettes 50
Jelly 474
Celery
241
Mayonnaise of 239
Layer Cake 494
Chicken
236
Pickled 51
Pie 879
Coru
242
Smoked, Broil'd 48
Sponge 429
Crab
237
Steaks, Boiled 42
Tapioca 430
Cucumber
241
Salsify, Boiled 301
Vinegar 543
Dandelion
242
Fritters 301
Water Ice 461
Egg
242
Salt 562
Reed Birds, To Roast 213
Endive
242
Salted Almonds 555
Refrigerator, Care of 369
Fish
m
Samp, or Breakfast
Rhubarb Pie 885
Lettuce
242
Hominy 354
Stewed 518
Lobster,
2ta
Sand Tarts 494
Ribbon Cake 495
Macedoine
242
Saratoga Chips 297
Rice 354
Mandarin
244
Pudding 395
Boiled 356
Nasturtium
Sauces
Boiled, Italian
Blossoms
242
Meat and Fish 221
Style 357
Orange
244
Allemande 222
Border, To Make 56
Oyster
239
Anchovy 223
Croquettes No. 1 357
Oyster Crab
239
Apple
Croquettes No. 2 357
Peach
244
Bearnaise 223
Custards 424
Peppergrass
242
Bechamel 223
Dumplings 427
Potato
243
Bordeaux 529
Griddle Cakes,329, 334
Salmon
239
Bread 224
Lentils, and 283
Shad Roe
239
Brown No. 1 224
Meringue 434
Shrimp
240
Brown No. 2 224
Muffins 326
Sorrel
242
Brown No. 3 225
Souffle 435
Sweetbread
287
Caper 225
Waffles 334
Tomato
243
Celery 225
578
PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Sauces
Sauces
Shrimps, Boiled 61
Meat and Fish
Pudding
Silks, To Wash 550
Champagne 226
Peach 439
Sinks, To Clean 369
Chestnut 226
Soft Custard 437
Skunks 208
Cranberry * 226
Vanilla 440
Smelts, Fried 43
Cream 226
Vinegar 440
Smoking Meats 151
Cream, Mush-
Wine 440
Snipes, To Roast 212
room 227
Sauerkraut 270
Snow Balls 435
Currant Jelly 227
Sausage 153
Cream 420
Curry 227
Bologna 154
Fritters 342
Drawn Butter 227
Breakfast 156
Pudding 407
Egg 228
To Cook 154
Soda Biscuit 337
Espagnole 228
Oxford 154
Soda and Quick Biscuit 337
Fish 228
Stuffer 153
Soft Custard 437
Hollandaise 228
Summer 155
Soft Gingerbread 485
Lobster 228
Save, What to, and How
Soft Shell Crabs 59
Maitre d' H6tel 229
to Use it 157
Fried 60
Mint 229
Scalloped Lobster 57
Sorrel, Pur<e of 302
Mushroom 229
Oysters 69
Salad 242
Olive 229
Potatoes 295
Soup, Albert 10
Onion 229
Scallops 61
Barley 3
Oyster 230
Fried 61
Bean, Black 3
Piquante 231
Stewed 61
Bean, Dried 4
Port Wine 230
Schmier-Kase 366
Bean, Dried, with-
Robert 230
Scotch Cakes 500
out Meat 4
Shad Roe 231
Rare-bit 3<J4
Bouillon 11
Shrimp 231
Shad, Baked 46
Calf's Head 12
Supreme 231
Broiled 44
Chicken No. 1 13
Tartare 232
To Cure and Smoke 47
Chicken No. 2 13
Tomato 232
Planked 47
Clam No. 1 30
Tomato, Cream 232
Shad-Roe Croquettes 50
Clam No. 2 31
White 232
Salad 239
Clear, with Crou-
Worcestershire,
Sauce 231
tons 4
Imitation of 535
Sheep's Head, Dressed 120
Clear, with Vege-
Pudding
Head Hash 120
tables 5
Brandy 436
Kidneys en bro-
Consomme" 13
Caramel 435
chette No. 1 120
Cream of Aspara-
Cream 436
No. 2 121
gus 24
Creamy 437
Tongues 120
Cream of Barley 24
Fairy or Nun's
Tongues, To Boil
Cream of Bean 26
Butter 438
Smoked 120
Cream of Celery 24
Foamy 437
Shepherd's Pie 117
Cream of Cheese 25
Hard 438
Sherbets 458
Cream of Corn 25
Lemon 438
Short Cakes 337
Cream of Fish 30
Madeira 438
Cream 338
Cream of Pea No. 1 26
Montrose 439
Shrewsbury Cakes 499
Cream of Pea No. 2 27
Orange 439
Shrimp Salad 240
Cream of Potato 27
Our Cooking
Sauce 231
Cream of Rice 27
School 440
Shrimps 60
Cream of Sago 28
INDEX
579
Soup, Cream of Salmon 31 Soup, To Clarify
Strawberry Parfait 457
Cream of Tapioca 29 ! Soups, Cream
Pie 379
Cream of Tomato 29
Meat and Vege-
Pudding 390
Duchess 25
table 10
ShortCake 413
Fish 29
from Stock 2
Sponge 429
Fruit 14 Sour Dock 280
Tapioca 431
Giblet 14
Pickles 527
Vinegar 543
Green Turtle 81
Bcew 205
Water Ice 461
Gumbo No. 1 15
Soused Pig's Feet 145
Stuffing, Bread 220
Gumbo No. 2 15 Tripe 109
Onion 220
Halibut 30 : Spanish Bun 47''. Potato 220
Julienne 5
Spare Rib 144
Sage 220
Lenten 42
Spice Cake 4S6
Stuffings 219
Lentil 6
Spiced Cantaloupe 527
Sturgeon 52
Lobster, Bisque of 29
Cherries 527
Baked 53
Macaroni 6
Peaches 526
Broiled 53
Mock Bisque 29
Pears 527
Pickled 52
Mock Turtle 16
Plums 527
Stewed 52
Mulligatawny 17
Quinces 527
Succotash 277
Mutton 18
Watermelon Rind 527
Suet Paste 375
Noodle 7, 18
Spighetti H8
Pudding 398
Normandy 19
Spinach 801
Sugar, To Clarify 559
Onion 7
Sponge Cake 488
Vanilla, To Make 558
Ox-Tail 19
Spring Chicken 176
Sunshine Cake 489
Oyster 33
Squab, Salmi of 201
Sweet Pickles 526
Oyster Plant 28
Squabs, Baked 202
Sweet Potato Bread 319
Pea, Dried 8
Broiled 201
Custard 383
Pea, Green 16
Squash, Summer 302
Sweet Potatoes, Boiled 299
Pen, Split 8
Winter 002
Fried 300
Pepper Pot 20
Squirrel Pie 184
Roasted 299
Potato 27
Squirrels 208
Warmed
Rabbit 20
Starch for Dark Calicoes 553
Over 300
a la Reine 21
Steel Ware 547
Sweetbread Croquettes 141
Rice 7
Stewing Fruits 516
Cutlets 140
EtafO 8
Stock, Fish 41
Sweetbreads 138
Salmon 31
Sauce and Gravy 222
alaB&harnel 140
Salsify 28
Soup 2
Broiled 140
Sorrel 8
Veal 28
& la Creme 13J
Tomato No. 1 9
White 23
Fried 139
Tomato No. 2 9
Stone Ware 548
au Jus 141
Turkish 10
Strawberries 515
Mayonnaise of 237
Turtle, Green 31
To Can 522
and Peas No. 1 138
Turtle, Mock 16
Croquanteof422
and Peas No. 2 139
Vegetable, Clear 5
Frozen 465
Swing Fellows 477
Vegetable, with
Strawberry Bavarian
Shin of Beef 22 Cream 418
Table of Weights and
Vegetable, with-
Ice Cream 452
Measures 563
out Meat 22
Jelly 474
Taffy 509
Vermicelli 10
Layer Cake 494
Tapioca Cream 420
580
PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK
Tapioca Custard 425
Tripe, Stewed 107
Veal, Shoulder of 123
Pudding 898
Truffles 554
Stock 23
Soup 29
Turkey 191
Vegetables 261
Tarragon Vinegar 635
Boiled No. 1 192
Cooking of 261
Tartlets, Paganini 383
Boiled No. 2 193
Green 261
Tea 541
Boned 194
Wilted 262
Frozen 466
Caponed 196
Velvet, To Clean 553
Tea Biscuit No. 1 323
Galantine of 195
Velvet Cream 420
No. 2 324
Roast, Cold 192
Venison 203
Terrapin 63
Roasted with
Care of 203
Stewed 63
Giblet Sauce 192
Cutlets 205
Tin Kitchen 80
Stuffed with
Hams, To Cure 206
Ware 545
Chestnuts 192
Haunch 203
Toad in Hole 99
Stuffed with
Ragout of 205
Toasted Cheese 364
Truffles 192
Saddle of 204
Tomato Catsup No. 1 533
Turnip Tops, Boiled 306
Steaks, Broiled 2C4
Catsup No. 2 533
Salad 242
in Chafing Dish 206
Catsup, Cold 534
Turnips, Boiled 306
Vinegar, Chili 535
Farci 304
Browned 306
Raspberry 543
Salad 243
with Cream Sauce 306
Sauce 440
Sauce 232
Tutti Frutti No. 1 454
Strawberry 543
Sauce, Cream 232
No. 2 454
Tarragon 535
Tomatoes, Baked 303
Virginia Biscuit 339
Broiled 305
Utensils, Kitchen 545
Vol-au-Vent 386
Curried 305
of Chicken 386
Fried No. 1 304
Vanilla Ice Cream 452, 453
of Lobster 386
Fried No. 2 305
Parfait 457
of Oysters 386
Stewed 303
Sauce 440
Stuffed 304
Sugar 558
Waffles, Grits 329
Tongue 109
Veal . 122
Plain 328
Beef's, Boiled 109
Breast of 123
Quick 334
Beef's, Braised 110
Croquettes 124
Raised 328
Beef's, To Cure 101
Cutlets 123
Rice 328, 331
Beef's, Fillets of 112
Cutlets, Breaded 124
Walnut Catsup 534
Beef's, Larded
Fricandeau of 126
Molasses Candy 510
and Spiced 111
Fricandelles of 125
Walnuts, English, To
Beef's, Smoked 109
Galantine of 130
Glace 556
Beef's, on Toast 112
Grenadines of 124
Pickled 530
Beef's, Turkish 111
Jellied 129
Washington Pies 385
Sheep's 120
Knuckle, Stewed 128
Water 562
Tout Fait 435
Loaf 128
To Boil 562
Tripe, Boiled 107
Loin of 122
Bread 317
Broiled 108
Olives 125
Hard 261
Composition of 107
Pie 127
in Meats 79
Fried 108
Pot-Pie 127
Soft 261
Mushrooms, with 108
Ragout of No. 1 129
Watercress 242
Oysters, and 109
Ragout of No. 2 130
Water Ice, Cherry 459
To Prepare 107
Relish of 124
Currant 459
Soused 107
Salad 237
Ginger 460
INDEX
681
Water Ice, Grape, 460
Lemon 460
Orange 460
Pine-apple 461
Pomegranate 461
Raspberry 461
Strawberry 461
Water Ices 458
Watermelon Rind,
Preserved 523
Spiced 527
Watermelons, To Serve 515
Weakfish, Fried 44
Welsh Rare-Bit 364
1 Weights and Measures,
Wild Pigeons
210
Table of
563 j Wild Turkey
208
What to Save
157 i Wine Jelly
467
Wheat
351 j Sauce
440
Whipped Cream
557
Winter Squash
302
White Mountain Cake
494
Woodcock, To Roast
212
White Sauce
232
Woodenware
546
Stock
23
Whitensh, Fried
44
Yeast No. i
815
Planked
47
No. 2
815
Wild Ducks, Ragout of
jn.t
Yeast Cake, To Use
822
Roasted
209
Salmi of
m
Zephyr, White,
Wild Goose
m
TO Clean
558
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