86
1/
MES. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
^!^^^
MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
A MANUAL OF
FRENCH AND AMERICAN COOKERY
WITH CHAPTERS ON
DOMESTIC SERVANTS
THEIR RIGHTS AND DUTIES
AND MANY OTHER DETAILS OF HOUSEHOLD
MANAGEMENT
/
BY 1
MRS. L. SEELY
WITH MANY ILLUSTRATIONS
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO., Ltd.
:••-; .•.', 19G2
■'■■"" C ,,•
All riffhtt reserved
A^
1^
Copyright, 1902,
By the MACMILLAN COMPANY.
^
•^ S.£u8hin§ * Cj>.^Berwi«il» {t amith,
'.*: ;.'.Nor,T0t>dj;Ma8s. tr.S.A.; \ \
CONTENTS
PAET I
RIGHTS AND DUTIES OF SERVANTS
PAOE
Pay Table, from One Day to One Month 1
CHAPTER I
General Relation of Employers and Servants 3
CHAPTER II
Generally Recognized Duties of Each Servant .... 8
CHAPTER III
Generally Recognized Duties in the Average Well-appointed
Household of Six Servants 28
CHAPTER IV
Duties of Servants under Other Conditions and Smaller House-
holds 32
CHAPTER V
Don'ts for Employer 33
CHAPTER VI
Don'ts for Servants , • . . 36
vii
Vlll CONTENTS
CHAPTER VII
PAOB
The Servants' Hall. The Storeroom 37
CHAPTER VIII
Household Receipts 40
PART II
CHAPTER I
Dinners and Dinner-giving. Wines, Decanting, Warming, Cooling,
AND Serving 46
CHAPTER II
Selection of Fish. Selection of Meats. To judge the Age of
Poultry and Game. Time-table for Cooking. Boiling. Rules
FOR BOILING MeAT. BaKING AND ROASTING. RuLES FOR ROASTING
Meat. Broiling. To broil Meat well. Frying. Steaming . 65
CHAPTER III
Table of Measures. Table of Proportions. Weights and Meas-
ures. Proportions. Read this Advice 70
CHAPTER IV
Soups 73
CHAPTER V
Fish, Oysters, Lobsters, Terrapin 101
CHAPTER VI
Meats 143
CONTENTS ix
CHAPTER VII
PAOB
Poultry and Game 180
CHAPTER VIII
Salads, Sauces, and Aspics 207
CHAPTER IX
Vegetables and Farinaceous Foods 232
CHAPTER X
Sandwiches, Egg and Cheese Dishes, and Forcemeats . . . 261
CHAPTER XI
Hot Puddings, Custards, Souffles, etc. 284
CHAPTER XII
Cold Puddings, Creams, Meringues, and Ices 306
CHAPTER XIII
Cakes, Fillings, and Icings 336
CHAPTER XIV
Breads, Pastes, and Pies 360
CHAPTER XV
Candies, Preserves, and Pickles 380
CHAPTER XVI
Beverages 393
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
A Dining Room. General View Frontispiece
FACING PAGE
Housekeeper 8
Lady's Maid, in Street Costume 11
Lady's Maid, in House Livery 11
Butler, in Full Dress 12
Valet 12
First Footman 14
First Footman, in Breeches and Silk Stockings, or Court Livery . . 14
First Footman, in Breeches and Silk Stockings, or Court Livery . . 16
First Footman, in Breeches and Silk Stockings, or Court Livery . . 16
Page Boy 16
Waitress, in Afternoon Livery 17
Waitress, in Morning Livery 17
Parlormaid, in Morning Livery 18
Parlormaid, in Afternoon Livery 18
Chambermaid, in Morning Livery 20
Chambermaid, in Afternoon Livery 20
Model Kitchen. Cook and Second Cook 22
Chef and Mortar 24
Another Part of Model Kitchen. Scullery Maid washing Servants' Dishes 25
Carriage Footman 26
Coachman 26
Coachman, in Mourning Livery 28
Carriage Footman, in Mourning Livery 28
Laundress 30
Another Part of Model Laundry. Laundry Stove with Boiler connected 30
Model Laundry 32
Servants' Dining Hall 36
Dinner Table 48
Detail of One Cover 50
Lunch Table, Twelve Covers 58
xi
xii LIST OF ILLVSTBATIONS
FACING PAGE
Baked Codfish 104
Fish Mousse 110
Mould for a Mousse of Fish 110
Lobster Cutlets 140
Moulds for Lobster Cutlets 140
Fillet of Beef 146
Kidneys on Skewers 146
Boned Ham 174
Small Moulds for Ham or Chicken Mousse 174
Ham Mousseline 176
Mousse Mould 176
Boned Chicken 184
Chicken Timbale 184
Chicken Timbale 192
Timbale and Mousse Moulds 192
Boned Turkey 196
Trussed Turkey 196
Larded Quail 202
Game Pate 202
Cream Cheese Ball Salad 224
Tomato Salad 224
Timbale Mould 232
Artichoke Bottoms filled with French Beans. Mayonnaise Dressing . 232
Baked Asparagus 234
Baked Cauliflower .234
Maccaroni Timbale 244
Potato Roses 244
Potato Balls 252
Nested Eggs 274
Spinach Timbale 274
Chestnut Pudding 286
Baba 296
Moulds for making Baba, Large and Small 296
Charlotte Russe 310
Wine Jelly with Grapes 310
Jelly or Pudding Mould 316
Meringues Shells filled with Pistachio Cream 320
Orange Baskets filled with Jelly 320
Chocolate Mousse 326
Mould for Chocolate Mousse 326
Strawberry Nesselrode 332
Mould for Strawberry Nesselrode 332
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Xlll
FACING PAGE
Angel Cake 338
Birthday Cake 338
Fruit Cake 340
Vanilla Wafers 340
Lemon Cakes 346
Chocolate Eclairs 346
Log Cabin 348
Lady Fingers 348
Fancy Cakes 350
Currant Jelly Cake 350
Boston Brown Bread 360
Homemade French and Graham Bread 360
Crescents 362
French Rolls 362
Cream Biscuits 364
Paper Cases for Cream Biscuits, etc 364
Tin Mould for making Paste, Rice, or Hominy 372
Pat6 Shells 372
Pulled Sugar Basket 380
Pastry Cutters 380
PAY TABLE FROM ONE DAY TO ONE MONTH
5
P
$10
$11
$12
$13
$14
$15
$16
$17
$18
$19
$20
$25
$30
$35
1
0.33
0.37
0.40
0.43
0.47
0.50
0.53
0.57
0.60
0.63
0.67
0.83
1.00
1.17
2
0.67
0.73
0.80
0.87
0.93
1.00
1.07
1.13
1.20
1.27
1.33
1.67
2.00
2.33
3
1.00
1.10
1.20
1.30
1.40
1.50
1.60
1.70
1.80
1.90
2.00
2.50
3.00
3.50
4
1.33
1.47
1.60
1.73
1.87
2.00
2.13
2.27
2.40
2.53
2.67
3.33
4.00
4.67
5
1.67
1.83
2.00
2.17
2.33
2.50
2.67
2.83
3.00
3.17
3.33
4.17
5.00
5.83
6
2.00
2.20
2.40
2.60
2.80
3.00
3.20
3.40
3.60
3.80
4.00
5.00
6.00
7.00
7
2.33
2.57
2.80
3.03
3.27
3.50
3.73
3.97
4.20
4.43
4.67
5.83
7.00
8.17
8
2.67
2.93
3.20
3.47
3.73
4.00
4.27
4.53
4.80
5.07
5.33
6.67
8.00
9.33
9
3.00
3.30
3.60
3.90
4.20
4.50
4.80
5.10
5.40
5.70
6.00
7.50
9.00
10.50
10
3.33
3.67
4.00
4.33
4.67
5.00
5.33
5.67
6.00
6.33
6.67
8.33
10.00
11.67
11
3.67
4.03
4.40
4.77
5.13
5.50
5.87
6.23
6.60
6.97
7.33
9.17
11.00
12.83
12
4.00
4.40
4.80
5.20
5.60
6.00
6.40
6.80
7.20
7.60
8.00
10.00
12.00
14.00
13
4.33
4.77
5.20
5.63
6.07
6.50
6.93
7.37
7.80
8.23
8.67
10.83
13.00
15.17
14
4.67
5.13
5.60
6.07
6.53
7.00
7.47
7.93
8.40
8.87
9.33
11.67
14.00
16.33
15
5.00
5.50
6.00
6.50
7.00
7.50
8.00
8.50
9.00
9.50
10.00
12.60
15.00
17.50
16
5.33
5.87
6.40
6.93
7.47
8.00
8.53
9.07
9.60
10.13
10.67
13.33
16.00
18.67
17
5.67
6.23
6.80
7.37
7.93
8.50
9.07
9.63
10.20
10.77
11.3314.17
17.00
19.83
18
6.00
6.60
7.20
7.80
8.40
9.00
9.60
10.20
10.80
11.40
12.00
15.00
18.00
21.00
19
6.33
6.97
7.60
8.23
8.87
9.50
10.13
10.77
11.40
12.03
12.67
16.83
19.00
22.17
20
6.67
7.33
8.00
8.67
9.33
10.00
10.67
11.33
12.00
12.67
13.33 16.67
20.00
23.33
21
7.00
7.70
8.40
9.10
9.8010.50
11.20
11.90
12.60
13.30
14.0017.50
21.00
24.50
22
7.33
8.07
8.80
9.53
10.27 11.0011.73
12.47
13.20
13.93
14.67 18.33
22.00
25.67
23
7.67
8.43
9.20
9.97
10.7311.50 12.27
13.03
13.80
14.57
15.3319.17
23.00
26.83
24
8.00
8.80
9.60
10.40
11.20 12.00 12.80
13.60
14.40
15.20
16.00l20.00
24.00
28.00
25
8.33
9.17
10.00
10.83
11.67
12.50jl3.33
14.17
15.00
15.83
16.67 20.83
25.00
29.17
26
8.67
9.53
10.40
11.27
12.13
13.00 13.87
14.73
15.60
16.47
17.3321.67
26.00
30.33
27
9.00
9.90
10.80
11.70
12.60
13.50 14.40
15.30
16.20
17.10
18.00 22.50
27.00
31.50
28
9.33
10.27
11.20
12.13
13.07
14.00 14.93
15.87
16.80
17.73
18.67 23.33
28.00
32.67
29
9.67
10.63
11.60
12.57
13.53
14.50
15.47
16.43
$17
17.40
$18
18.37
$19
19.33 24.17
1
29.00
33.83
Mo.
$10
$11
$12
§13
$14
$15
$16
$20
$25
$30
$35
PAY TABLE FROM ONE DAY TO ONE MONTH
$40
1.33
2.67
4.00
5.33
6.67
8.00
9.33
10.67
12.00
13.33
14.67
16.00
17.33
18.67
20.00
21.33
22.67
24.00
25.33
26.67
28.00
29.33
30.67
32.00
33.33
34.67
36.00
37.33
38.67
$40
$45
1.50
3.00
4.50
6.00
7.50
9.00
10.60
12.00
13.50
15.00
16.50
18.00
19.50
21.00
22.50
24.00
25.50
27.00
28.50
30.00
31.50
33.00
34.50
36.00
37.50
39.00
40.50
42.00
43.50
$45
1.67
3.33
5.00
6.67
8.33
10.00
11.67
13.33
15.00
16.67
18.33
20.00
21.07
23.33
25.00
26.67
28.33
30.00
31.67
33.33
35.00
36.67
38.33
40.00
41.67
43.33
45.00
46.67
48.33
$50
$55
$60
2.00
4.00
6.00
8.00
10.00
12.00
14.00
16.00
18.00
20.00
22.00
24.00
26.00
67J28.00
50 30.00
33 32.00
34.00
36.00
38.00
67|40.00
50 42.00
$55
44.00
46.00
48.00
50.00
52.00
54.00
56.00
58.00
$60
$65
$65
$70
2.33
4.67
7.00
9.33
11.67
14.00
16.33
18.67
21.00
23.33
25.67
28.00
30.33
32.67
35.00
37.33
39.67
42.00
44.33
46.67
49.00
51.33
53.67
56.00
58.33
60.67
63.00
65.33
67.67
$70
$75
$80
2.50
5.00
7.50
10.00
12.50
15.00
17.50
20.00
22.50
25.00
27.50
30.00
32.50
35.00
37.50
40.00
42.50
45.00
47.50
50.00
52.50
55.00
57.50
60.00
62.50
65.00
67.50
70.00
72.50
$75
$85
2.83
5.67
8.50
11.33
14.17
17.00
19.83
22.67
25.50
28.33
31.17
34.00
36.83
39.67
42.50
45.33
48.17
51.00
53.83
56.6
59.50
62.33
65.17
68.00
70.83
73.67
76.50
79.33
82.17
$85
$90
3.00
6.00
9.00
12.00
15.00
18.00
21.00
24.00
27.00
30.00
33.00
36.00
39.00
42.00
45.00
48.00
51.00
54.00
57.00
60.00
63.00
66.00
69.00
72.00
75.00
78.00
81.00
84.00
87.00
$90
$95
3.17
6.33
9.50
12.67
15.83
19.00
22.17
25.33
28.50
31.67
34.83
38.00
41.17
44.33
47.50
50.67
53.83
57.00
60.17
63.33
66.50
69.67
72.83
76.00
79.17
82.33
85.50
88.67
91.83
$100
3.33
6.67
10.00
13.33
16.67
20.00
23.33
26.67
30.00
33.33
36.67
40.00
43.33
46.67
50.00
53.33
56.67
60.00
63.33
66.67
70.00
73.33
76.67
80.00
83.33
86.67
90.00
93.33
96.67
$100
PAET I
RIGHTS AND DUTIES OF SERVANTS
PART I
RiaHTS AND DUTIES OF SERVANTS
^>Kc
CHAPTER I
GENERAL RELATIONS OF EMPLOYERS AND SERVANTS IN
THE HOME AND BEFORE THE LAW
Before the law of this country servants of various kinds
stand upon the same footing. The term of service is to be
determined by the agreement between employer and employee,
between master and man, between mistress and maid. The
usual engagement is for a week's trial ; if both are suited, the
arrangement is to go on by the month. If the contract is for a
term longer than a year, it should be put in writing or it will be
invalid.
Importance of Clear Understanding between Employer and
Employed at the Time of Engagement
A clear understanding between master and servant at the
time of the engagement is most important.
A servant has a right to ask questions about the place in a
respectful manner, and he should gain all the information he
legitimately can about the character and demands of the house-
hold to which he thinks of going. Masters cannot expect
efficient servants to be indifferent to the duties they are under-
taking, and to their surroundings while performing those duties.
3
4 MBS, SEELTS COOK BOOK
A servant should tell what he or she expects as a part of his
place — to help and not to hinder him in the performance of his
duties. For instance, a lady's maid has a right to a sewing
room, and a valet to a room where he may press his master's
clothes, free from the possible interference of other servants. In
arranging for a place and its duties these matters should all be
forecast, considered, and definitely settled.
But a servant should not have a right to dictate what he or
she will or will not do. The employer has the right of naming
duties. Servants are at liberty to accept them or not, as they
wish.
Liability of a Servant to discharge under Differing
Circumstances
The servant may be lawfully discharged before the expira-
tion of his or her term for immoral conduct, wilful disobedience
of orders, gross incompetence to perform his duty, etc. Intoxi-
cation, for example, is a sufficient cause for dismissal. In such
cases the servant is paid wages for the period he or she has
served, and not for the entire month.
If the servant is discharged unjustly, and without sufficient
cause, before the expiration of his or her term, he or she is
entitled to a week's or a month's wages. In other words, if a
master or mistress, without just cause, discharges a servant
before his or her month expires, the servant is entitled to wages
in full for the week or month, as the arrangement for service
and wages may be. If, on the other hand, an emplo3^er has
occasion to speak to a servant for neglect of duty, and the ser-
vant says he or she will leave at once, the employer has a perfect
right to withhold all wages for the week or month. A servant
should give the employer proper notice before leaving. If the
servant is employed by the month, at least one week's notice
is necessary, and if by the week, not less than two or three
days'.
BIGHTS AND DUTIES OF SERVANTS 5
If a servant leaves without proper notice and before his
month expires, unless through sickness or because of some acci-
dent, he forfeits his wages for the month.
Wages which may be claimed in Case of Abrupt Dismissal
or Voluntary Leaving
If a servant employed in a family hears of another situation
and, without the employer's consent, leaves at once, or on the
following day, he or she forfeits claim to wages of his or her
week or month. In many cases servants are influenced by
friends in such precipitate action, and should realize they do an
injustice to themselves as well as to their employer.
An employer may engage a servant on one week's trial and,
at the end of the week, both may be satisfied. But if later, per-
haps in the second or third week, the servant becomes careless,
neglects duties, and when reproved replies impertinently, the
employer may discharge him or her with wages to date.
The Question of References
As a general rule a master is not obliged to give a reference,
and statements in regard to the character of servants, to those
who intend to employ them, are generally regarded as privileged
communications. In other words, a master or mistress is not
bound to give a servant a character or letter of recommendation.
If such is given, it should be truthful. If the servant is not a
good one, care must be used in the wording of the reference.
Penalty for forging a Reference by Self or Proxy
A reference made by a person with malicious intent and con-
taining false statements calculated to injure and harm the servant
would be libelous and not privileged.
A servant obtaining employment by any false or forged letter
or certificate of recommendation is guilty of a misdemeanor. A
6 MES. seelt's cook book
misdemeanor is punishable by imprisonment in a penitentiary,
or county jail, for not more than one year, or by a fine of not
more than $500, or by both.
Penalty for personating" an Employer
Any individual who personates a master or mistress and
gives a servant a character is liable to punishment. A servant
altering a written character, or offering a false one from a pei*son
representing a master or mistress, is also liable.
Right to Pare to Place of Engagement
If servants are going a distance, it should be understood
that if they leave before the master is ready to return, they must
pay their own fare back. If the servant remains during the
period for which he or she is engaged, his fare is paid both ways.
Heads of a House must indorse Management
The heads of a household must indorse any one to whom
they depute the management of their establishment. Too much
stress cannot be laid upon this necessity. The responsibilities
of the housekeeper rest heavily upon her, and the heads of the
house should never give ear to the complaint of a disaffected or
malicious servant. Such reports should always be sent to the
one whom they chiefly concern.
For the heads of the house to listen is to give credence at
least in part, to disintegrate authority, and to take it from hands
in which it is frankly placed. It is the beginning of disorder.
And in housekeeping order is a first law.
To guard Exactions of Servants, One of Another
The exactions of servants toward one another is another
point which should be carefully guarded against. In any group
of persons, even if there are only three or four, there is com-
BIGHTS AND DUTIES OF SERVANTS 7
monly some more dominating and masterful — not to say lazy
— character than the others. Mistress or housekeeper should
guard carefully the more yielding and kindlier dispositions, and
see that they are not put upon by their colleagues. Such a
domestic as " the man of all work" is especially apt to be loaded
with duties by other servants unless he is protected.
CHAPTER II
GENERALLY RECOGNIZED DUTIES
Duties of Housekeeper
A MANAGING housekeeper should be possessed of thorough
executive ability. Necessarily she is well bred and well
educated. To her duties she often in our country brings a
knowledge of refined housekeeping gained in her own home, a
knowledge of life and its conventions, and the tact to direct
those serving her which is commonly given alone to those bred
in early years to gentle living.
She is, under the mistress, head of the house. She hires and
discharges all servants. She sees personally that all work is
thoroughly and properly done. She is, with constant kindness
in her heart for human frailty, on the watch to detect and
correct any wrongdoing on the part of any servant. She
should never spy, never go quietly to detect errors. Her ap-
proach should always be known. She should gain the good
will and affection of those she directs by unfailing good order
and kindly interest in each of them. Let her have few
rules, but those few most effectively kept. If she has the con-
fidence and respect of those under her, she has their support.
The heads of the house must fully indorse her in every detail
of her administration.
The housekeeper is sometimes also secretary to the mistress
of the house. But at all times she takes entire charge of the
house ; in fact, is what her name denotes, — a keeper of the
house.
She oversees the closing of the town house and the opening
8
Faci7ig page
HOUSEKEEPER
EIGHTS AND DUTIES OF SERVANTS 9
of the country house, she sees that all carpets are sent to be
cleaned, that all blankets are put away in good order, that heavy
curtains are taken down, and the furniture slip-covers put on
early in May. She sends lace curtains to the cleaner's. She
keeps her eyes open for any defects that might damage the
property of the householders and reports the need of all repairs
to the mistress.
Her day is commonly spent in some such wise as this :
She should be up early in the morning and see that all under her
charge are at work by seven. She has planned their daily work
and must see that her directions are carried out with clocklike
regularity. Her first duty is to go through the servants' rooms
and see that all beds and windows have been left open by the
occupants for sweetening and freshening in the morning air.
Her breakfast, which is commonly served about eight, is brought
by the second chambermaid and is served in her own sitting
room or office. In some large households the children of the
family eat at the housekeeper's table, which is served by a
footman.
After breakfast the housekeeper goes to the pantry to see
what is wanted in the way of supplies — such as brushes,
sponges, towels, soap, chamois, and other articles used for clean-
ing and washing. If glass or china has been broken, it should
be reported to her at once. Plenty of towels are needed in the
pantry, and those of good quality are cheaper in the end. Fine
glass and silver require soft linen. If the towels furnished are
too coarse, the men will be driven to use the expensive table
napkins for their polishing.
It is well for the housekeeper to look through all drawers and
closets in the pantry, and also into the ice-box, to see that all
things are kept clean and that no stale fruit or food is by
chance left behind. If servants see that the housekeeper is
interested in keeping all such places in order, they themselves
are more neat and careful.
10 MRS. SEELY'S cook BOOK
In smaller establishments the housekeeper now makes up
her lists for the grocer and her menus for lunch and dinner.
When these have been examined by the mistress of the house,
she goes to market and sends in all that is necessary for the
day's meals. She then returns home to see that what she has
ordered lias been sent. In larger establishments she first pays
her regular visit to the kitchen, at which time the chef, or
cook, asks for anything needed other than the marketing. In
such establishments the menu arranged by the chef or cook
is approved by the mistress of the house, or if not by her, then
by the housekeeper.
The same duty and the unswerving vigilance with which
she began the day lead her to go through all rooms of the
house, to be sure that her aids have done their work properly.
She sees that the bath-rooms are in perfect order, the bath-tubs
clean, soap-dishes and racks wiped, glasses on the basin in
order, and all waterclosets scoured and flushed. If guests are
expected, she helps to welcome them to the house by seeing
that towels are in plenty, fresh soap is in the dish, fresh ink
in the inkstand, fresh pen in the holder, and that stationery is
at hand, and the pin-cushion well supplied with pins. Candles
and matches on the stand by the bedside, whether in a house
where electric lights are used or not, do not miss her over-
sight. She sees to it also that the drawers of closet and
bureau are empty, and that, if sachets are not supplied, smooth
white paper is spread in them.
After luncheon there is often at times a little mending need-
ful in the table linen, and this mending sometimes falls to the
housekeeper. It should be done before sending away to the
laundry. A linen book is well kept in the pantry. In this
book the pantry maid should make a list of all table linen
before it is sent to the wash. This linen, as well as all other
soiled linen, should be taken to the laundry Friday afternoons,
so that the laundress may sort it for washing Saturday. The
ft s
BIGHTS AND DUTIES OF SERVANTS 11
housekeeper checks off the linen when it comes from the laundry,
and directs the putting away of it. A well-trained housemaid
may assist, but the housekeeper herself should look after it
personally.
The housekeeper has charge of the linen closet, and sees that
the supply is increased when necessary. It is she also in many
houses who gives out the daily supply of linen, orders the
flowers, and sees that they are properly arranged by the butler.
In fact, the housekeeper often gives the butler a helping hand
with the flowers, especially when no parlor maid is kept and
the butler and second man have charge of the parlors. The
housekeeper orders all coal, wood, etc., and in some houses she
has entire charge of the wine closet, giving out daily to the
butler the wines he requires, and handing to the mistress a
weekly list of the contents of the wine closet.
In the evening the housekeeper usually makes up the
accounts and goes over the books of the different tradespeople,
for she pays all bills and sees that in items and as a whole they
are correct.
Duties of Lady's Maid
A lady's maid should be a well-mannered, respectable-look-
ing young woman. She should be a tolerably good dressmaker
and a good hairdresser.
Her first morning duty is to dress her mistress. About this
it is impossible to give directions, since ladies differ much in
their toilet arrangements. The housemaid generally takes up
the hot water for the mistress. Occasionally the mistress pre-
fers to have her own maid do so.
The maid draws her mistress's bath, and after the latter has
bathed and is dressed, the maid must examine her wardrobe,
put away everything left about the room, and shake or iron
out tumbled dresses. She then sits in the sewing room, but
must be in readiness to answer her mistress's bell, and to dress
12 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
her for a walk, drive, or ride, having everything ready and
boots, gloves, etc., in perfect order.
During the day, when not in actual attendance, she will
have to mend and probably to wash and iron fine lace, hand-
kerchiefs, etc. Very little instruction can be given on this
point. Different mistresses have different needs and make
different demands upon maids. Brushes should be washed in
tepid water to which a little ammonia is added, care being
taken not to wet the back of the brush. The bristles should
be rinsed thoroughly and dried, if possible, in the open air.
Once a week the lady's maid will have to send her mistress's
linen to the wash. She should look over the clothes and mend
everything that requires a stitch before sending it, making also
two lists, one in a book for the laundress and one in a book to
be kept at home. When the clothes return from the wash, the
maid should compare them with the list, examine the marks to
see that they have not been changed, sew on any buttons, and
set aside any badly washed or ironed garments.
For the dinner toilet she should have everything prepared
and at hand. As soon as the toilet is made and her mistress
has left the room, she should examine the dress just removed,
brush it if it is a tweed, shake and wipe it if it is a silk or any
light material. Silk dresses should be wiped with a soft piece
of merino or very fine flannel. If anything needs mending, it
should be done at once. Everything should be aired, cleaned,
and put away — either folded or hung in the wardrobe.
The mistress's bedroom must be ready for her at the usual
hour of her retiring for the night. It is the maid's duty to
undress her mistress, and remain in attendance until she is
dismissed.
A respectful manner is necessary in a lady's maid. She is
not to keep her seat while her mistress is speaking to her, unless
she is asked to, and she is to rise when her mistress enters the
room.
RIGHTS AND DUTIES OF SEKVANTS 13
A good deal of sitting up at night is sometimes required
from a lady's maid. She must strive to get what rest she
can, and good-temperedly support any inevitable fatigue. A
cheerful, kindly performance of her duties, and deference, obe-
dience, industry, and strict honesty will be apt to secure for her
a friend in her mistress and a happy home under all ordinary
circumstances.
A sewing room should be set aside for the use of the lady's
maid.
Duties of Valet
The valet's duty is to wait upon his master. In the morn-
ing he attends to the lighting of the fire and warming of his
master's bedroom. He then cleans his boots and shoes, and
brushes his clothing, which he arranges on a table or chair.
He prepares the master's bath, and if it is wished, hands gar-
ments to him as he dresses. He is sometimes expected to
shave his master. Later he puts the dressing room in order,
brushes clothes before putting them away, cleans combs and
brushes, and is at his master's orders whenever required.
Valeting is often done by the butler and footmen or second
men. The latter take turns in valeting guests.
There should be a room set aside for the valet in which to
press, brush, and care for his master's clothes. If a specific
room for this use is impossible, he must do the best he can in
the laundry or the front basement.
Duties of Butler
The butler has entire charge of the dining room and of the
under menservants or footmen. Both he and his men should
be at work by seven in the morning. The butler puts the din-
ing room in order, sets the table, and then has his own break-
fast at seven-thirty in the servants' hall. When three or more
men are kept, he serves his master's breakfast and takes his
orders for the day. He sees to setting of trays for any break-
RIGHTS AND DUTIES OF SERVANTS 15
to call his attention to his work and himself. In houses where
no housekeeper is employed he has the table linen in his care,
takes out daily what he requires, and counts it before sending
to the laundry.
A butler wears at breakfast, and also at luncheon, a high
double-breasted black waistcoat (not a low-cut evening one),
trousers of any mixed pepper-and-salt description, never black,
a black tie, and a black dress coat. In the evening he wears all
black, with a low cut waistcoat that may be white if he chooses,
and a white tie. At dinner he always stands behind his mas-
ter's chair, and the footman behind his mistress.
Valeting, especially of guests, is sometimes done by the but-
ler. He valets the master if required.
A single-handed butler takes charge of dining room and sil-
ver, and valets the gentlemen of the house. He also helps more
or less with the cleaning of the parlor floor. The parlor maid
assists him at night with the washing of the dinner dishes, and
also answers the bell while he is cleaning the silver.
Duties of First Footman
The first footman lays the table for each meal, serves the
family breakfast either on trays in the different rooms or in
the breakfast or dining room, and attends the door during the
morning. In households where but a butler and one footman are
kept, the two alternate in tending the door. In other establish-
ments the first, second, and third footmen take turns at the door,
each one serving every third day. Families differ in the manage-
ment of these divisions of household labor, but the above and
all other duties mentioned apply in a general rule.
If the first footman does not wait at breakfast, he is busy
cleaning silver. To keep it in perfect order, silver should be
rubbed every day and cleaned once a week, and he w411 therefore
need to do some part every day. The large dining room, where
there is a breakfast room also, he has to brush before he sets out
16 MRS. seely's cook book
the silver on the sideboard. The dining room is thoroughly
swept every Saturday morning, and of course is in perfect order
before the family breakfast. If it is used upon the previous day,
it should be brushed every morning. All sweeping and dusting
should be finished before breakfast.
The morning dress of the footman is of a double-breasted
coat, waistcoat, trousers, and small black tie. At lunch he wears
his regular livery suit with a striped waistcoat. When the
family is in mourning, he wears black tie, studs, and cuff-buttons.
At dinner he wears livery. His livery should always be
immaculate.
Each second man or footman should have every second or
third afternoon from the time lunch work is finished until five
o'clock.
Duties of Second and Third Pootman
The second footman has care of the breakfast room, waits at
breakfast with the butler, helps with trays, leathers the small
silver, and helps wipe dishes.
The third footman has care of the front hall and library;
also of coat-room. He dusts every morning and sweeps the
halls thoroughly Saturday mornings and the library on Thurs-
days. He serves breakfast to the housekeeper and children's
table if there be one, and with his fellow-footmen takes turns at
serving lunch at this table. He is dressed in livery at ten
o'clock and in the hall to answer bells, etc.
Valeting is done by footmen. They take turns in valeting
guests.
The Duties of Second Man when Three Men (a Butler and
Useful Man) are kept
To be at work at 7 a.m. ; sweep and dust the front hall and
vestibule and to breakfast at seven-thirty. To carry up all
trays with breakfasts to those having breakfast in their rooms.
W3
«
P^
n
w
p
u
'•/■/
H
r*i
K
1^
?5
W
i^
o
o
H
;^
X
r^
tai
H
1—1
o
f^
K
<
« ^
^ o
^1/J^.^
BIGHTS AND DUTIES OF SERVANTS 17
To wash up breakfast things ; help butler clean small silver ;
answer door-bell. To see (in winter) that all fires in parlor
and dining rooms are kept brightly burning. In some houses
to attend to the cleaning and pressing of gentlemen's clothing,
especially when visitors have come without their valets. To
keep the pantry clean ; to break ice for cooling wines ; in
summer to see that the door and window awnings are up or
down as occasion requires ; to answer the telephone ; to wash
up all lunch and dinner dishes, etc., to assist at serving lunch
and dinner.
The Duties of Fourth or Useful Man
He carries all coal and wood to kitchen and laundry and to
boxes on each floor, and keeps them full. He carries down
ashes, carries up and down all trunks and baggage, opens all
express and freight packages, keeps basement hall, trunk-room,
cellar, and court in order. He washes garbage cans, washes all
windows, cleans brasses of the house, sweeps walk, piazza and
vestibules. Washes steps and sidewalk at least twice a week with
the hose. Shakes door-mats. Helps sweep bedrooms when
such are very large and the furniture heavy, carries all hampers
of clothes to the laundry, and carries clean clothes upstairs.
Freezes ice-cream. Attends the furnace. In fact he is what his
name implies, "a useful man."
Duties of Page or "Buttons"
He assists the waitress in taking care of vestibule steps, side-
walk and area. He cleans the front door-knobs, washes up in
the pantry, assists waitress in cleaning dining room and parlor
floors and windows, attends front door and carries coal, wood, etc.
Duties of Waitress
The duties of waitress are those which fall to a butler, where
one is kept. She has entire charge of the dining room and
18 MRS. SEELY's cook BOOK
pantry, cleans silver and takes charge of the cooling and warm-
ing of wines, and serves all meals, assisted by the parlor maid.
She serves any refreshment required in the evening, carries
coffee after dinner to the parlor — in fact, her duties are those
of a butler.
She must always have on her black dress, white apron and
cap before lunch is served. She takes turns with the parlor
maid at answering front door-bell and seeing that all windows
and doors on the parlor floor are fastened for the night. She
puts out all gas, lamps, etc.
In some houses she combines with her own work the duties
of a parlor maid. In such arrangements she is expected to rise
at six or six-thirty at the latest, open the parlor floor, and brush
up and dust the dining room before breakfast. After breakfast
she washes china, glass, and silver and puts the dining room in
order. She also has charge of and keeps clean the hall, library,
and entire parlor floor, and she cleans brass and the front door-
knobs.
Duties of Parlor Maid
In smaller establishments the parlor maid is at work at six-
thirty. She opens up the lower rooms, sweeps and dusts the
halls and parlors, brushes the overcoat and hat required by the
master and lays out his gloves. On the day the waitress cleans
the silver the parlor maid helps her wash dishes in the pantry
and helps generally with the silver. She answers the front door-
bell. She assists at luncheon when there are guests, and always
at dinner. She keeps her parlors in good order, attends to the
flowers, lights the gas and lamps, sees that the morning and
evening papers are laid out and that fires burn brightly. In
fact she does the duties of second man.
Where one man is kept, the parlor maid and he work to-
gether. She has charge of the drawing room, butler's pantry,
washing of glass, china, and silver. She serves breakfast and
waits on the door.
-— t^^'
BIGHTS AND DUTIES OF SERVANTS 19
When two or more men are kept, her work varies. She has
the drawing, reception and sitting rooms, main stairs and lava-
tories on the parlor floor to dust every morning. When the
drawing room and sitting rooms are thoroughly swept the sec-
ond footman or useful man should help, because the furniture is
too heavy for a woman to lift. If they begin the work at six in
the morning, their assisting does not interfere with the pantry
work.
The parlor maid washes dishes and keeps clean the drawers,
closets, and refrigerators of the pantry. The cleaning of brass
in the pantry is done by one of the pantry men. She should
see that towels are in abundance and are washed every day.
She sweeps and puts the pantry in order every day, and washes
it up once or twice a week.
Her dress is the same as that of the chambermaid.
Duties of Chambermaid
She should commence sweeping halls at six-thirty. After
breakfast she dusts halls, draws baths, calls the family or visi-
tors, and opens up shutters in bedrooms. She also assists the
lady's maid in brushing the dresses.
After the family have gone to breakfast, she opens their bed-
room windows, takes clothes off the beds, one by one, placing
them across two chairs to air, and turns the mattress across the
foot of the bed to air. She then puts away any clothing, dress-
ing-gowns, slippers, etc., washes out soap-dishes and other toilet
articles, going through each bedroom in her care, and opening
up each bed to air in each room. She then commences to make,
at the first she opened for refreshing. Every day she should
sweep up pieces and thoroughly dust not only the furniture but
woodwork of the room. Once a week every room should be
thoroughly swept, and plumbing fixtures and silver toilet arti-
cles cleaned. One room a day should be done in this manner,
the useful man cleaning the windows and brasses, and, on a lad-
20 MRS, seely's cook book
der, wiping over tops of doors, pictures, etc. All work should
be finished in the bedrooms before lunch. If there is not time
to accomplish all before lunch, then she cleans the silver articles
after, and brings them back to their places.
One chambermaid is expected to assist in the pantry the
nights of dinner parties, and, where two chambermaids are kept,
they take evenings about. When dusk comes, the chambermaid
draws down the shades and lights the gas. Where there are
open fireplaces, she builds up a bright fire. If guests are stay-
ing in the house, she sees that they have everything they re-
quire. After the family and guests go to dinner she removes
and carefully folds the lace spreads, etc., of the beds. She then
turns the bed down nicely and lays the nightgown on it.
Dressing-gowns and slippers are placed on or by chairs. She
removes soiled towels and puts out fresh ones, tidies wash-
stand, lowers gas, and sees that drinking water is put in all bed-
rooms not later than nine o'clock in winter ; ten will do in sum-
mer. If gentlemen are staying in the house, and have no valet
with them, the chambermaid in charge of their rooms either
herself (or sees that the useful man) puts out the evening suit,
a clean shirt with studs, etc., and, after the guest has gone to
dinner, that the suit of clothes and boots he has worn through
the day are taken away, cleaned and brought back ready for the
next morning.
One of the first things for a chambermaid to learn is how
properly to make a bed. Every bed which has been occupied
should, to preserve the health of its occupant and the hygiene
of the house, be thoroughly aired both in bed-clothes and mat-
tress every time it is used. The first chambermaid has charge
of all bedrooms and bath-rooms on the second floor and one
stairway. She also assists in the linen room.
All beds are changed on Saturday so that the soiled clothes
can go to the laundry that morning.
The chambermaid's dress for morning wear should always
BIGHTS AND DUTIES OF SERVANTS 21
be of light print material, waist and skirt to match. In the
afternoon she wears waist and skirt of bUxck cashmere or
serge, white collar and cuffs. She wears cap and apron at
all times.
Duties of Second Chambermaid
The second chambermaid has charge of the bedrooms on the
third floor and third hall and stairs. These should be taken
care of with as scrupulous cleanliness and care as any other. If
on this floor there is a playroom, it should be cleaned and put in
order before the hall, early in the morning. The chambermaid
gives this room its first daily cleaning. The nurses keep it in
order for the day.
Duties of Third Chambermaid
The third chambermaid brushes and dusts the sewing room
early every morning in order not to disturb the ladies' maids
when they are busy. She has charge of servants' bed- and
bath-rooms, hall and stairs. Sometimes nurses make their
own beds ; but the chambermaid does their cleaning in their
rooms.
She makes the beds of the men, cooks, kitchen maids and
laundresses, etc., and sweeps, dusts, and tidies their rooms —
keeping them in perfect order.
She keeps the servants' hall in order and cleans silver for its
table. In fact she takes care of this dining hall, except its
windows.
Duties of Laundress
The laundress should collect all the linen requiring washing
and compare it with the list given her and then assort it. Linen
should be washed well in two waters. The first water should
be cool. The second should be hot and plentiful. Scald, rinse
in hot water, then in cold water slightly tinged with blue,
22 MRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
wring thoroughly, and hang in the sunshine and air to bleach
and dry. After the articles are ironed and thoroughly aired the
laundress should fold them neatly and pass them on to the
housemaid or lady's maid to assort. Handkerchiefs should be
ironed wet, to stiffen and give them a gloss.
When the housekeeper pays her regular visit to the laundry,
the laundress should then tell what she needs to further her
work.
Duties of Second Laundress
She is to rise not later than six-thirty, make the laundry fire
and put the laundry in order. She washes and irons all the
plain clothes, and sometimes where the fine wash is very large
she assists the head laundress in ironing.
Duties of Cook
She should be in the kitchen early — by six o'clock — and
prepare for the servants' breakfast at seven. After breakfast
she should prepare and send up the family breakfast. Later
she should tell the housekeeper what is wanted for the day, pre-
pare pies, puddings, or ices for luncheon and dinner, see that the
kitchen maid has vegetables and that the meat and pudding are
attended to for the servants' dinner at twelve-thirty. After
this dinner she prepares and sends up the family lunch. After
lunch she sees that all vegetables, game, etc., required for the
family dinner, are prepared, and makes cake or anything required
for afternoon tea. She should always have a list of what is re-
quired from the grocer, etc., ready for the housekeeper, should
see that the kitchen maid does her work well and is clean, that
the refrigerator, meat house, etc., are in good order. In fact,
she takes entire charge of the kitchen under the housekeeper,
and she should personally supervise the cleaning of the kitchen
and cooking utensils, ice-boxes, etc.
The cook, if cooking only is expected and a kitchen maid is
RIGHTS AND DUTIES OF SERVANTS 23
kept, is supposed to take entire charge of the family cooking.
She prepares and cooks all game such as canvasback and redhead
duck, etc., and all entrees.
If she is privileged to go out alternate Sundays, she should
have everything prepared and ready for the kitchen maid to
cook.
In smaller establishments the cook is expected to clean the
hall and passage, as well as the kitchen, scullery, etc. When the
morning's dirty work is done, she should carefully wash her
hands and visit the larder. Here she should look to everything.
See if the hanging meat or game requires cooking. Wipe out
and air the bread-box. Clean and scrub the larder at least
twice a week. Receive her mistress's orders attentively, and if
she cannot trust her memory, write them on a slate. She should
examine the meat sent by the butcher, and if it is not right, re-
fuse to accept it. She should also weigh the meat and ask the
butcher for a paper of weight.
And now a few hints to the cook about kitchen work : —
Clean up as you go.
Don't scatter in the kitchen.
Be sure to put scalding water in each saucepan or stewpan
as you finish using it.
Keep your spice-box always replenished, and take care to
let your mistress know if you are out of anything likely to be
required, that its place may at once be supplied.
Take care of your copper utensils that the tin does not be-
come worn off. If so, have them instantly replaced.
Dry your saucepans before you put them away.
Pudding bags and jelly cloths require care ; wash and hang
them to dry directly after using them. Air them well before
you put them away or they will smell musty. Keep them in a
warm, dry place.
After washing up your dishes and cleaning the dishpan,
scald out the sink and sink brush.
24 MRS. seelt's cook book
Be careful not to throw anything but water down the sink,
lest you should clog it up.
Never have sticky, greasy plates and dishes. The way to
avoid this is to use soap, very hot water, and clean dry towels.
Change the water often. Perfectly clean plates and dishes are
one proof of the cook being a good servant.
Be particular in washing vegetables. Lay cauliflower and
cabbage in salt and water for an hour or more to get out the
insects, etc.
If a dinner party is in prospect, ask for the bill of fare and
get ready all you can the day before, to ease worry and hurry on
the day fixed.
Take notice of all orders that require time in the preparation
of a dinner and hurry nothing.
Wear plain cotton dresses and large aprons.
Be sure to keep your hair neat and smooth.
Be careful of fuel. It is a great recommendation to a cook
to use only the necessary amount of coal.
Have an eye to your mistress's interests, not permitting
waste of any kind. A cook who is just and honest and does as
she would be done by is worthy of the greatest respect and may
be sure of being successful and happy.
Duties of Chef
A chef has the entire charge of his kitchen, and, as a rule,
two assistants, who are called second cook and kitchen maid.
The chef does all ordering for the kitchen in the way of mar-
keting. Utensils, etc., are ordered by the housekeeper. He
makes up the menu, and cooks for the family table, and
arranges all the meals for the servants' table.
Duties of Second Cook
The second cook helps the chef with all cooking for the
family, and is expected to cook for the servants' table. In
Facing page 3U.
CHEF AXD MOKTAK.
BIGHTS AND DUTIES OF SERVANTS 25
addition to this the second cook makes all hot bread, and
helps prepare vegetables. She cleans all store-room closets and
drawers once a week, and supervises ice-boxes. The second
cook is sometimes called first kitchen maid.
Duties of Kitchen Maid
She should be in the kitchen not later than six o'clock ;
start the cook's fire ; sweep the kitchen and dining hall ; and
set the table for servants. She puts over the fire oatmeal, — or
whatever cereal is in use, — grinds the coffee, and has the pots
and pans ready for the cook. After breakfast is over she
waslies dishes, and then helps the cook in sending up the
family breakfast ; she prepares vegetables for the servants'
dinner, sets the table, and serves the servants' dinner at twelve
o'clock, waiting upon the table. After dinner she washes the
dishes, and helps the cook where she needs help for the family
luncheon. She serves servants' supper or tea at five-thirty,
washes the dishes, and helps the cook for family dinner, carry-
ing dishes to the lift as cook has them ready, etc. She washes
pots and pans and tidies up the kitchen, and before going to
bed sees to the fastening up of all windows and doors on kitchen
floor. She cleans out refrigerators one day, china closet another
day, pot closet another day. She takes care of the lower floor,
scrubbing kitchen, basement, and stairs. Where only one house-
maid is kept, she is expected to attend to the servants' bed-
rooms, back halls, and staircase.
She generally washes all kitchen towels, roller towels, and
servants' table linen, and answers the basement bell.
Duties of Second Kitchen Maid or Scullery Maid
She washes dishes, prepares vegetables, washes towels, helps
keep the kitchen clean, cleans refrigerators, etc., and kindles
fire in the morning where there is no watchman,
26 MES, SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Duties of Coachmen and Stablemen in a Large Estab-
lishment
An establishment or stable department where all kinds of
carriages are kept, from a coach to a runabout, differs according
to the requirements and life of the family to be served. When
everything is the best of its kind, and every appointment is
to be perfect, eight men at least, besides the head coachman,
and twenty horses are required.
The head coachman should be a man who thoroughly under-
stands his business in every detail, and one who commands the
respect of men under him.
He should have full and complete charge of everything con-
nected with the stable, be held responsible for its service in every
way, and have authority to discharge his men for misconduct.
His duties require him to see the horses fed, and his men at
work in the morning punctually at the hour set by him. He
should see that the men do their work properly, he should say
what horses require exercise, etc., and strictly watch the gen-
eral health and comfort of the animals.
To the head coachman falls especially attention to the first
lady of the household. He sees that all his men are properly
fitted with the livery required for each style of carriage, and
that they are at all times clean and neat in person.
To regulate his work he will need a second coachman, who
will drive in his turn, see that all carriages are kept perfectly
clean, pay strict attention to the oiling of wheels, etc., and
care for general neatness of the coach house.
A third coachman, or pad groom, will be required to ride
and drive, and to keep clean saddles and bridles. He also has
care of the saddle room.
One man must be appointed harness cleaner, and he will
have care of all harnesses and the harness room, and see that
all harnesses are clean and in their place.
EIGHTS AND DUTIES OF SERVANTS 27
It will need the time of the other men to clean and harness
horses, and properly attend to them after they are used ; to
clean stable drains and stable ; to keep the place free from
foul odor ; and to dust, wash windows, etc.
In order to insure the convenience of the family, and to
prevent the men's being away at meals, etc., it is best to pro-
vide in such an establishment for the men's board and sleeping
accommodations, bath, etc., in the stable.
CHAPTER III
GENERALLY RECOGNIZED DUTIES IN THE AVERAGE WELL-
APPOINTED HOUSEHOLD OF SIX SERVANTS. DUTIES OF
COOK, WAITRESS, PARLOR MAID, CHAMBERMAID, LAUN-
DRESS, USEFUL MAN.
Duties of Cook
The cook rises and is downstairs at six o'clock, and opens
the door for the furnace or useful man. She makes her fire
and cleans her range, and cooks and serves at seven o'clock the
servants' breakfast. After this breakfast she cooks the break-
fast for the family, which is usually at eight o'clock. While
the family is at breakfast she washes up her kitchen dishes and
saucepans, and tidies up her kitchen. Later she puts on a
clean white apron, and goes to her mistress's room for orders
for the day. The servants have their lunch at twelve o'clock,
the family at one. The family dinner is at seven or eight,
and the servants have theirs afterward.
The cook has every other Sunday from three o'clock until
ten-thirty, the laundress cooking the dinner. She has also
one evening in the week after she cooks and serves her dinner,
the laundress washing up for her. The cook takes care of her
own kitchen, ice-boxes, closets, windows, and cellar stairs.
Duties of Waitress
The waitress has entire charge of dining room and pantry.
She cleans the silver, ice-box, china and glass closets, washing
and caring for her glass and dish towels. She also cares for
the billiard room. The useful man looks after the grate fire,
28
!2;
o
BIGHTS AND DUTIES OF SERVANTS 29
the brasses, and windows. The parlor maid assists her at
dinner every other night, alternating with the chambermaid.
The Avaitress serves breakfast, luncheon, and dinner. She at-
tends the front door until the parlor maid is dressed. She
has every other Sunday afternoon and evening out, and one
evening in the week, the parlor maid or chambermaid taking
her place. She is dressed in black dress, white apron, cap,
collar, and cuffs.
Duties of Parlor Maid
The parlor maid is at work at six o'clock. She opens up the
parlors and sitting room, and dusts and puts in order the rooms
on that floor. She then takes her breakfast. After breakfast
she brushes the overcoats and hats, and lays out the gloves
required by the gentlemen of the house.
She also waits on the mistress, keeping in order, laying out,
dusting, and putting away her clothes. She helps the waitress
at lunch, if there are guests, and always at dinner, taking her
place every other Sunday afternoon and evening, also one
evening in the week. She answers the front door-bell the
day the waitress cleans the silver.
She is dressed at three o'clock to attend the front door, and
generally mends, hems dusters and floor-cloths which she uses
for that floor. She cleans the parlors thoroughly once a
month, oftener if used very much, but dusts them thoroughly
every day, taking care of her own broom, brushes, chamois,
dusters, pails, etc., and washing dusters daily to keep them
sweet and clean. She draws the shades, lights the gas and
lamps, sees that the morning and evening papers are ready,
attends to the flowers, sees that the fires burn brightly, and
closes up her part of the house. In fact she has the duties
of a second man. Every other Sunday afternoon and evening
she has out, and one evening in the week, but she must be
home at ten- thirty.
30 MRS. si:ELr's cook book
Duties of Chambermaid
The chambermaid rises and is downstairs at six o'clock.
She sweeps and dusts the halls and stairs, draws baths, calls
the family or visitors, and has her breakfast. After breakfast
she goes to the servants' rooms, and after making their beds
and tidying the rooms, she goes to the family rooms and opens
bedroom windows, takes clothes off the beds, one by one, placing
them on two chairs, being careful not to let the clothes touch
the floor, and turns the mattress across the foot of the bedstead
to air. She puts away dressing-gowns, slippers, washes out
soap-dishes, and attends to the toilet articles. She goes through
each bedroom in her care, opening up beds to air in each room.
She begins at the first she exposed to the air, and makes the
others in turn. Every day she sweeps up pieces, and thoroughly
dusts not only the furniture, but the woodwork of the room.
Once a week she should thoroughly sweep every bedroom,
clean globes and bath-room fixtures, and silver toilet articles.
One room a day should be done, the useful man cleaning the
windows, brasses, wiping over tops of pictures, windows, doors,
etc. All work should be finished in the bedrooms before
luncheon.
The chambermaid is dressed by four o'clock, in black dress,
white apron, cap, collar, and cuffs. She does the darning and
mending, hemming of dusters and floor-cloths. At dusk, she
draws down the shades, lights the gas or lamps, and where
there are open fireplaces, builds up a bright fire. If guests are
staying in the house she sees that they have everything they
require. After the family and guests go to dinner, she turns
down the beds and removes and carefully folds the lace spreads,
etc. The nightgowns are then laid on the bed, and slippers
are placed on the floor. She removes soiled towels and puts out
fresh ones, tidies wash-stands, lowers gas, puts ice water in all
the bedrooms not later than ten o'clock.
O rq
: 5
BIGHTS AND DUTIES OF SERVANTS 3l
The chambermaid has every other Sunday afternoon and
evening off until ten-thirty, the parlor maid or waitress taking
her place. She has brooms, brushes, dusters, chamois, pails,
and everything to work with, and must wash her dusters each
day, taking good care of each article.
Duties of Laundress
The laundress rises and is ready for work at six o'clock ;
she opens the servants' rooms, and takes the clothes off their
beds, one by one, placing them across two chairs, also she turns
the mattress across the foot of bedstead to air. She empties
their slops, leaving the rest for the chambermaid to do. She
cleans the laundry stove, makes her fire, and by this time her
breakfast is ready. She also takes care of the front basement
hall, sweeps, cleans, and dusts it ; does the family laundry
work ; washes and irons the aprons for waitress, parlor maid,
and chambermaid. She attends the basement door-bell while
the cook is serving dinner; she also washes up the cook's
dinner dishes one evening in the week.
Duties of Furnace and Useful Man
Comes to the house at six o'clock in the morning, attends to
furnace, cleans the boots, shakes the door-mat, sweeps vesti-
bule, steps, sidewalks and area, washes steps and sidewalk at
least twice a week with the hose, shakes the rugs, cleans all
the windows and brass in the house, goes messages, carries up
coal and wood, cleans cellar, backyard, opens cases, carries
trunks, and makes himself generally useful. He sleeps and
boards out.
CHAPTER IV
DUTIES OF SERVANTS UNDER OTHER CONDITIONS. HOUSE-
HOLD OF TWO SERVANTS
Duties of Cook and Laundress, Chambermaid and Waitress
Cook and laundress, chambermaid and waitress, if only two
servants are kept, should work together, taking each other's
place alternate on days or nights out. Their duties are stated
in foregoing pages. If there are three maids and the third be
a laundress, she should take the cleaning the last of the week
and relieve the waitress one evening in the week, and also
help wash up the cook's night off.
Duties of General House Servant in House or Apartment
If only one servant is kept, and she is engaged to do the
entire general work, she does not as a rule expect much time
off. In many cases she has every second Sunday, and one
evening in the week, and occasionally two or three hours of
an afternoon for shopping. In some cases the mistress washes
the dishes and makes the beds, especially on washing and iron-
ing days, and on her Sunday afternoon and evening off. But
no two households are alike. Rules differ very much.
32
.J
CHAPTER V
DON'TS FOR EMPLOYER
Don't engage a servant without having a clear understand-
ing as to what he or she is expected to do.
Don't give an order and then forget it, and contradict your-
self.
Don't send orders to one servant through another if you
can avoid it.
Don't discuss servants in general, or those of any particular
nationality, while you are being waited on at table.
Don't promise a holiday, or any pleasure, and then take it
back.
Don't spy upon your servants — take pains to be sure they
are honest, and then trust them rationally.
Don't expose them to temptation by leaving money care-
lessly about, as if it had no value for you.
Don't go into your servants' rooms, unless you have reason to
think they are not clean, — they have a right to some privacy.
Don't blame servants for every fault or mistake, and then
leave good service unthanked. They would rather, being
human, be scolded and praised than have uniform excellence
taken for granted.
Don't expect in your servants a perfection which would be
impossible in any human being.
Don't talk of one servant in the hearing of another. Don't
discuss one servant with another.
Don't rely on information given you by one servant of the
other without first investigating. Often ill-feeling and jealousy
will prompt a false report.
D 33
34 MBS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Don't allow the cook to stint the table of the servants.
They should be well fed. It pays to drop into the kitchen at
meal time and see if their meals are properly cooked and served.
Don't fail to see that their beds are good and their rooms
properly cared for. Give each one a separate room when it is
possible.
Don't expect servants to perform duties without proper
utensils to work with. Have dust sheets, cloths, brooms,
brushes, pails, chamois, dusters, etc., and require each servant
to look after his or her own articles.
Don't neglect to have inventory of china, glass, silver, and
bric-a-brac of each servant. coming and going. Without this
it is difficult to keep track of various articles.
Don't forget the old proverb, which has generations of
human experience in it : " Like mistress like maid ; like mas-
ter like man."
See that each person in your employ, especially when kept
busy late in the evening, has a time in the day, say of an hour
or two, when he or she may be alone and rest, or do what he or
she wishes.
In arranging a changing off of work, for instance, the
change about of parlor maid with waitress, when one takes
some hours off, see that each one clearly understands her duties
and privileges. This will save misunderstanding, and perhaps
a complete upsetting of the domestic order.
The best way to get polite and respectful service is to be
respectful and polite and self-contained yourself.
CHAPTER VI
DON'TS FOR SERVANTS
Don't decide the minute you enter a new situation that it
doesn't suit you. Pay no attention to any gossip that may be
told you. Wait and see for yourself. By so doing you will
avoid unnecessary trouble for self as well as your employer.
Don't tell an untruth about your wages. Tell what amount
you have received a month when asked by an employer. False-
hood will place you in a very bad position. It is sure to be
found out.
Don't be foolish in regard to wearing a cap. It is a great
improvement to one's appearance, and is worn by all first-class
servants. Be sure to keep the hair tidy.
Don't listen while you are waiting at table — you will prob-
ably get things twisted and be tempted to repeat them so.
Don't be always standing on your dignity as to what is and
is not " your place " — if you cannot get along go away, but
while you are in a house be pleasant.
Don't hide breakage from your mistress, — it will get you
into more trouble in the end than if you acknowledge the acci-
dent at once.
Don't think your mistress is unbearable because she may
sometimes be a little short in her manner, — ladies often have
worries and responsibilities of which servants have no idea.
Don't spend your time comparing the ways of one mistress
with those of another — each one has a right to her own rules
in her own house.
Don't spy on your masters and mistresses — the fact that their
bread is in your mouth should be a reason for keeping it shut.
35
36 MRS. seely's cook book
Don't go through your work mechanically — try to notice
how people leave things themselves, and put them in that order.
Don't " arrange " the papers on a desk or writing table
unless expressly told to ; pick them up, dust them, and where
they have lain, and put them down in the same place.
Don't be restless and want to move too often — the longer
you stay in one place the more likely you are to get a good
wedding present or legacy.
Don't, when September comes, be influenced by city friends
and give up a good home on account of your employer's remain-
ing in the country until October or November. Girls often do
this, and it is a great mistake. They are apt to remain idle
two or three weeks, and then are often compelled again to go
out of town and amongst strangers.
Don't leave garbage in the pantry from one meal to another.
Always keep the sink and pantry clean.
Don't upset the cook by telling her what the family say
about her cooking. Leave that for the mistress. If there is
any fault to be found it is not so apt to cause trouble if it goes
direct to the cook from her mistress.
Don't forget when meats, turkey, and game are served, that
sauce or gravy, also the jelly, such as cranberry jelly, etc.,
should be served before the vegetables.
Don't, when you are cleaning rooms, forget your dusters,
broom, and other articles. Look around before you leave the
room and take them with you. It is not pleasant to trip over
such things.
Don't forget to clean the finger marks from paint when you
are cleaning rooms.
Don't forget to clean the bed-springs; they should be
cleaned twice a month. Bedroom closets should also be
cleaned twice a month.
CHAPTER VII
THE SERVANTS' HALL
In large households there is a hall, or dining room, for the
servants. This room should be so arranged that it can be used
for a general sitting room in the evening. It is taken care of
by the kitchen maid. In some houses the servants have also
the use of the front basement as a sitting room. Again in many
places they are expected to eat in the kitchen and to use a part
of it for a sitting room.
Very few of the old downtown houses have the advantage
of wholesome and sufficient servants' quarters, but in the newer
dwellings the architects and owners seem to recognize the fact
that the little company, which is to keep the great house clean
and sanitary, cannot be clean or well in its different members
without sufficient room and appliances for keeping clean.
The general government of the servants' hall rests with the
butler and the cook.
Each servant has a right to some time off duty, and to some
time out of the house. The common rule in regard to return
in the evening is that each should be in by half-past ten, and
doors locked before eleven. Any one wishing to remain out
later should obtain permission, the butler reporting the men
and the women applying to the liousekeeper.
In smaller households in the question of time off duty, the
cook has every other Sunday afternoon and evening, one even-
ing in the week after dinner is served, and occasionally an
afternoon, say from three to ten-thirty. If no kitchen maid is
kept, the cook prepares the dinner and the laundress cooks it.
The waitress has the same time off, the chambermaid taking
37
38 MBS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
her place, if no j^arlor maid is kept. The chambermaid has the
same privilege, the waitress turning down beds, taking water
to the rooms, and making other arrangements for the night.
Two or three servants must be at home to answer family calls
and door-bells, the mistress arranging this matter so that there
may be no misunderstanding.
The butler has every other afternoon off, footman alternat-
ing, returning at five o'clock. If the butler is single-handed,
he has one or two nights a week and a few hours of an afternoon.
Where a number of servants are kept, they have more time off
and arrange this among themselves.
Servants should be downstairs not later than six-thirty in
the morning, and when they have work especially demanding
an early hour, even earlier. "Work which takes the maid or
man in the presence or sight of the family or its guests should
be well over in the early part of the day. There are two reasons
for this : one is that the work may be an annoyance and inter-
ruption to the family ; another is that workers cannot do so
well when they feel that they are intruding. In well-organized
households servants are not in evidence after lunch except in
direct personal service.
In the servants' hall breakfast is commonly served at seven
o'clock or half-past seven, dinner at twelve or half -past twelve,
and supper about half-past five. These hours vary, however,
and are subject to the conditions of individual households.
They should be so arranged that all may be prompt at the table,
and that the duties which bring them to the household and keep
them there, may not be interfered with.
In regard to their rooms, as a rule they have the top floor,
some of the men rooming out.
The Store-room
Groceries and supplies for a household of any size should, if
possible, be bought in quantity, and, therefore, every house
THE SERVANTS' HALL 39
should have a store-room. In this room an account book should
be kept, and in it should be entered the date when each store
is bought and the price paid for it.
The store-room should be absolutely dry and furnished with
shelves, nails, and drawers. A suspended net or two should
also be supplied for hanging lemons, oranges, etc. Earthenware
jars are necessary for sugar, oatmeal, rice, tapioca, sago, barley,
spices, etc., and if it is wished to keep on hand the pound
cake and fruit cake of our grandmothers (and cakes made
from old-fashioned receipts given in this book will keep for
years), no place for their preservation is so good as a dry
store-room and earthen jars with tight-fitting covers for their
snugger quarters.
Onions, shallots, and garlic should not be put in the store-
room, nor in the ice box, but hung from the ceiling in some
cleanly, odorless room. Onions absorb germs, and care should
be taken to keep them under most perfect sanitary conditions.
Vegetables will keep best in a dry dark place out of the air.
The housekeeper, if one be kept, otherwise the mistress, or
the cook, keeps the key to the store-room. The cleaning of the
room is done by the kitchen maid or cook, and supplies are put
in by the useful man.
CHAPTER VIII
HOUSEHOLD RECEIPTS
To clean White Paint
To clean white paint, take a small quantity of whitening on
a damp piece of old white flannel and rub over the surface
lightly. It will leave the paint remarkably bright and new.
Mahogany and General Furniture Polish
A mahogany polish that is highly recommended is prepared
by mixing well together one quarter of a pint each of turpen-
tine, linseed oil, alcohol, and vinegar. Put in a bottle and shake
before using. The furniture should be cleaned first with a soft
flannel and a little of the mixture applied at a time. When well
rubbed in, polish with an old silk handkerchief.
Floor Polish
One quart of turpentine, five cents' worth of ammonia, and not
quite half a pound of beeswax. Chip the beeswax up fine and
put it on the stove to melt. When melted, pour it in the tur-
pentine and add the ammonia. Then set it in a tin pail of hot
water on the back of the stove to heat ; and leave it in the water
while using it, for it goes on better when warm. Rub it on with
a flannel cloth; and for polishing, the best thing is a piece of
Brussels carpet, for it is rough and does not require so much
strength as a smooth cloth.
To make Window Glass Opaque
Dissolve a tablespoonful of Epsom salts in a glass of beer or
ale. The combination is best effected by heating. Wipe the
40
HOUSEHOLD RECEIPTS 41
mixture over the window you wish to cover with crystals. It is
impossible to see through the lace work. Greater opaqueness
is gained by increasing the quantity of salts.
To clean Marble
Take two parts of common soda, one part of pumice stone and
one part of finely powdered salt. Sift the mixture through a
fine sieve and mix it with water, then rub it well all over the
marble and the stains will be removed. Rub the marble over
with salt and water, wash off, and wipe dry.
To clean Tinware
The best thing for cleaning tinware is common soda.
Dampen a cloth, dip it in soda, rub the ware briskly, wash and
wipe dry.
To clean Cut Glass
Having washed cut glass articles, let then dry and afterward
rub them with prepared chalk, with a soft brush, carefully going
into all the cavities.
How to clean a Tea or CoflFee Pot
If the inside of either is black from long use, fill with water
and use a good-sized lump of washing soda and let it boil for an
hour. Scald well after and it will be clean and bright.
To clean Benares Brass
Wash, and rub with half a lemon.
How to Clean Coppers
Take a handful of common salt, enough vinegar and flour to
make a paste ; mix together thoroughly. There is nothing
better for cleaning coppers. After using the paste, wash thor-
oughly with hot water, rinse in cold water, and wipe dry.
42 MBS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
To put away Silver
In putting silver away, be careful to get the silver tissue
paper which can be bought very reasonably at Tiffany's. Silver
is not so likely to tarnish when this paper is used. After
wrapping in tissue paper, use brown wrapping paper outside,
never using newspapers, as the printers' ink has a very bad effect.
Bric-a-brac Mending
The skill of bric-a-brac menders is not fully appreciated un-
til it has been tried. Often the article is beyond restoration to
its original form or use, but is capable in their clever hands of
transformation into some other almost equally ornamental or
serviceable thing. A woman whose cut glass carafe lost its neck
through an accident, had it converted into a beautiful rose bowl
at a trifling expense. In this case the bric-a-brac mender was
also a glass cutter, but it is not difficult to find this combination
or to seek the cut-glass worker in his special shop.
To mend Broken China
Powder a small quantity of lune and take the white of one
egg and mix together to a paste. Apply quickly to the china
to be mended, place the pieces firmly together, and they will soon
become set and strong, seldom breaking in the same place again.
Cleaning Fluid
This fluid cleans cloth, felt, silk and woollen goods, and re-
stores the color.
Eight ounces of benzine, quarter of an ounce of chloroform,
quarter of an ounce of sulphuric ether, eighth of an ounce of
oil of wintergreen.
Shake well before using and keep away from all heat and fire.
Apply with a cloth suited to the fabric.
HOUSEHOLD RECEIPTS 43
The Best Way to wash and store Flannels
Getting ready to leave town or getting ready for warm
weather in town means the same thing in many respects.
Flannels and flannel blankets must be washed and put away.
The great point in washing blankets is to do the work so that
they will preserve their softness and that the colored stripes
may not lose their brightness. Soap should not be used in
washing blankets ; instead, put either aqua ammonia or borax
into the water. On delicate flannels avoid using plain soap.
The best plan is to make soap jelly for the purpose in this
way: —
Shred finely as much soap as you think will be needed for
the washing ; put it into a saucepan which should be kept for the
purpose with just enough water, hot or cold, to cover it. Let it
melt as slowly as possible until quite clear and free from lumps.
Unless it is melted slowly it will boil, and boiling wastes it ;
moreover, if boiled fast, or if the pan is too full of soap in the
first place, it will boil over very quickly. If preferred, the soap
may be set in a jar and melted in the oven. Any odds and ends
of good soap may be used up in this way. It should be made
fresh.
To wash the flannels, have a tub half full of warm, not hot,
water, and stir into it enough soap jelly to produce a good
lather. If the water is hard, or the flannels are greasy, add a
little ammonia to the water, a tablespoonful for every two gal-
lons of water. If you are using ammonia soap, this last is natu-
rally not wanted. Never rub flannels if it is possible to avoid
it, as it is pretty sure to shrink them. But squeeze them in
your hands, working them up and down in the soapsuds.
Then turn them inside out and wash in a second lot of soap-
suds rather weaker than the first, and rinse them at once in
plenty of water, repeating this rinsing until the flannels feel
quite soft and no soap is left in them. If soap is left in, the
44 3IBS. seely's cook book
material becomes hard and sticky and has a disagreeable odor
when dried. Use warm water to rinse in, for either hot or
quite cold rinsing water shrinks and hardens flannels. When
thoroughly rinsed, wring them carefully as dry as possible,
using the wringing machine as it will not twist the stuff ; then
shake them out, pull into shape, and dry at once in the open air
if possible, in a good wind and out of the sun.
They must not be dried in so hot a place as to make them
steam, as it is as bad for them as using boiling water. Shake
the flannels and turn them now and again while drying, pulling
them gently into shape. Iron when nearly dry with a cool
iron. Flannels shrink from the soap being rubbed on to them
instead of using soap jelly; from being washed or rinsed in
over hot or cold water ; from being left lying about wet instead
of drying them at once ; from being dried too slowly or in too
hot an atmosphere, and from being ironed while wet with too
hot an iron. New and sanitary flannels may be soaked for half
an hour or so in warm water with a little ammonia as before ;
cover the tub to keep in the heat and squeeze and wring them
out of this before the water gets cold.
Rice Water for washing Challies
Rice water is about the best thing to use in washing chal-
lies. Boil one pound of rice in five quarts of water. When
somewhat cool, put the challies in with rice and the rice water
and wash well, using the rice much as you would soap. If no
rinsing is used, the rice will have a good effect upon the fabric.
To make Starch
With cold water thoroughly dissolve the starch. Then
pour on boiling water, stirring constantly. When made, stir it
round two or three times with a wax candle. By doing this
you keep the starch from sticking to the iron.
HOUSEHOLD RECEIPTS 45
To remove Iron Rust
Mix salt with a little lemon juice ; put in the sun. If
necessary, use two applications.
To take Mildew from Linen
Rub the spots with soap, scrape chalk over them, rub them
well, lay the linen on the grass in the sun and, as it dries, wet
it a little. The spots should come out in two applications.
To take out Mildew
Dip the stained cloth in buttermilk and lay in the sun.
To cleanse a Chamois Skin
Wash it in cold water with plenty of soap, rinse well in
clear cold water. You may wash a skin in this way as often
as you please and still keep it soft.
To press Ribbons
In pressing slightly rumpled ribbons with a hot iron, lay
them between two sheets of manilla paper and they will come
out new.
PART II
>»<<
CHAPTER I
DINNERS AND DINNER-GIVING
The two things most essential to a successful dinner in these
days are, — well-chosen company and good service. If to these
you can add artistic cooking and beautiful table ornaments, so
much the better, but the best food loses half its savor if we are
bored while eating it, and the best talk is apt to flag if there
are long pauses between the courses.
The hostess should send out her invitations at least two or
three weeks beforehand. (These invitations should be answered
at once, certainly within twenty-four hours. No obligation is
more exacting than a dinner engagement, and nothing but ill-
ness should ever permit one to break it.)
To assure the success of her dinner she should be certain
that her guests are agreeable to one another, and when seating
them at her table arrange so that the talkative ones may be
next to the more silent ones. She should consider the capa-
bilities of her cook and not attempt dishes bej^ond his skill and
knowledge. Her dining-room servants should be so trained
that they serve the dinner in silence, not even the sound of a
footfall should be heard.
To begin with the table : the prettiest to look at are tho^e
which are five feet square, wdiere two people sit on each sic ^,
but they are by no means the best for social purposes. T'
46
DINNEBS AND DINNER-GIVING 47
corners stick out and interfere somewhat with the service, and,
what is more serious, the talk does not seem to pass them easily.
At dinners of more than ten or twelve, conversation must neces-
sarily, most of the time, be a series of duets, and all a hostess
can do is to assort her pairs carefully beforehand. But one of
the chief charms of a small party is that the talk may be general,
and experience has shown that it is not nearly so likely to flow
smoothly back and forth if there is a little angle jutting out
between two of the guests. And then, if there should be only An-ange-
six people, two of them sit on one side, two on the other, and "^^"^^^
the host and hostess at the ends alone, with an empty space on
either side of them, which has a somewhat chilling influence.
The old-fashioned round table, which may be made as long as
one chooses by the insertion of leaves, is much more practical,
and one which is four feet six across is quite large enough for six
people. It is a good plan to have one of the leaves cut in half, and
the addition of a half-leaf will usually make the table large enough
for eight. People do not want to sit with their elbows pressed
against their sides, like trussed fowls, and there must be room
to pass the dishes between them. But after comfort is once
assured, the closer together people are seated the better for the
gayety of a dinner.
The most convenient dining room, so far as service is con- pian of
cerned, is one in which the door into the pantry is at the farther ^^"^^^
end, away from the entrance into the room, because the screen,
which should always hide a pantry door, can in that case also
hide a table from which the service of the table is performed.
Besides the dining-table with its chairs, and the sideboard, The side-
every dining-room should have a serving-table, which is usually ^^^ '
of polished wood, with a shelf across it halfway down. This
ti.ble is in view of the guests, and on it are placed the finger-
b ;/wls with their doilies and plates, and any reserve glasses or
tuble accessories which are pretty to look at, such as the cakes
^..c dessert. Decanters of wine always look well standing on
48
MRS. SEELY'S cook BOOK
the sideboard until the time for wine serving. The carving can
be done in the pantry if there is no way of concealing what may
be called a working serving-table, but if one can be placed be-
side the pantry door and behind the screen, it is a great advan-
tage, as it obviates much opening of the pantry door, which, by
the way, should always have a spring and no latch, so that it
may be pushed open and will close noiselessly. The working
serving-table is best made of ordinary soft wood, with the legs
stained dark, and should be covered between meals with any
table cover which will look well in the room. While in use it has
a canton flannel undercloth, and a white tablecloth over that,
folded like a scarf lengthways, so that it may not interfere with
the servants' feet. It should be large enough to admit of the
carving being done on it comfortably, and on it the butler keeps
his reserve plates, except those which must be brought in hot
from the pantry, his knives, forks, spoons, and the other tools of
his trade.
Following the principle that the appearance of the table is
less important than the enjoyment of the dinners, any high orna-
ment or decoration should be avoided at a little dinner. If your
guests have to dodge a plant or peer round an urn, in order to
see their opposite neighbors, they will soon be discouraged, and
limit themselves to those on their own side. So in preparing
the table it is a good plan for two persons to take seats on
opposite sides of the table and move the candles or vases until
the right position is determined. If candles are used, they
should be made secure in the sticks and the shade-holders so
placed that they will slip down steadily as the candle burns.
The wicks should be lighted for a few moments and then ex-
tinguished before being placed on the table, so that they may be
easily relighted just before the guests enter the dining room.
A favorite decoration for a large table is a centerpiece of
flowers. But those who prefer to enable guests to see one
another across the table often prefer a piece of silver of graceful
DINNERS AND DINNER-GIVING 49
shape, but not too tall in the middle, and slender vases of silver
or glass, each holding a few flowers. The little dishes holding
candied fruits, peppermints, nuts, or things of that sort (which
the French call '^ the four beggars," probably because they appear
so persistently) stand among these vases. If there are candles
on a small table, in order to avoid crowding it is better to have
merely a bowl of flowers in the middle. The bowl should not be
packed full, nor be flat, squat, and ungraceful in effect. The
flowers may be stuck into wet sand or moss, or fitted in between
twigs twisted together in the bottom of the dish, and thus held
the stems will stand upright and slightly apart, instead of lolling
over on each other. The custom of laying flowers and leaves,
or ferns, directly on the tablecloth is not wholly to be recom-
mended. In the first place, unless they are arranged with great
taste and skill, they look messy, and then there may be some one
at the table who cares for flowers, and it will not add to his
pleasure to see them dying slowly of thirst before his eyes.
As dinner is supposed to be the pleasant ending of a day,
the table should convey an impression of rest and simplicity
when the party is informal. At a large entertainment the dec-
orations may be elaborate if the host chooses, but if a small
table is crowded with odds and ends of china and silver, they
are sure to be soon pushed away, and the effect is fussy and
untidy.
Opinions vary as to using colored glass. Some Venetian Glass,
and French glass is certainly very decorative ; but the beautiful
color of wine demands pure white glass, and taste now tabooes
the colored. Elaborately embroidered cloths are also beautiful ;
but nothing can be handsomer than fine white damask, spotless,
and looking as though it could easily be washed.
In the following remarks, the words " butler " and " foot-
man " are used, because they are immemorially associated with
table service, but their places may be taken, and very often Table
are, by a well-drilled waitress and a parlor maid. In large
service.
50
MRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
establishments, where there are several footmen, the latter do
most of the service; the butler does not have to touch the
plates, but he carves, serves the wines and bread, rings from
the pantry as soon as a course is on the table, to give the cook
due warning of the next, and always removes the bread
crumbs. There are other details of his service, but in the pres-
ent instance we will suppose that the head servant, whether
man or woman, has but one assistant, with whom he works
harmoniously.
The manner of setting a table is pretty much the same in
all good houses. After the cloth has been put on perfectly
straight over its undercloth of felt or canton flannel, the
creases, if it has been folded and not rolled on a roller, should
be smoothed out with a flatiron, which must not be too hot
for fear of spoiling the surface of the table. If plates have any
crest or monogram, this should be carefully put toward the
middle of the table, and quite straight one with another.
Napkins are folded the monogram on top, and are laid on the
plates with a piece of bread or roll placed in the fold in such a
way that it may be seen. Elaborate devices for napkins are
entirely out of date. At the right of each plate, with edge
toward the plate, is a steel knife for the meat and sometimes
a silver one for fish (although in old-fashioned houses the
latter are not used), and, if there are oysters, a tiny oyster
fork. A tablespoon for the soup may go with the knives. At
the left, tines up, are the forks, never more than three ; a small
fork, for the fish, which often matches the fish knife, and a large
one for the first entree. The one to be used first is the farthest
away from the plate.
Tumblers and glasses, the last articles to be placed on the
table, as they are easily knocked off and broken, go on the right
of the plate, and there are as many of the latter as there are
wines to be given. At a large dinner, for instance, there would
be one for white wine, one for Sherry, one for Champagne, and
i H
BINNEES AND DINNER-GIVING 51
one for good claret. Table claret is drunk from the tumbler.
Glasses for Port or Madeira are not put on the table until these
wines are served. The glasses must be placed in groups, the
water glass nearest the plate, and the wine glass to be first used
nearest the edge of the table.
Everything needed in serving the dinner should be in its
place, the platter for the hot dishes in the hot closet, and on
the side table, the extra silver, cutlery, and china ; also bowls
of cracked ice. There should be possible no delay in serving.
The butler keeps count of guests as they arrive, and when Seating the
all is in readiness he comes to the door of the drawing room and quests,
says ''the dinner is served."
If there are cards with the guests' names, these are laid Use of
on the cloth, at the top of the plate, or at one side, wlier- ^^^^®'
ever they may be most easily seen. The host always comes
into the dining room first, with the lady who is to sit on his
right, and who is helped first; the hostess comes in last
of all. In the case of a very high official, the hostess goes in
first with him, but these suggestions do not deal with questions
of precedence. As the hostess usually knows the plan of the
dinner table, and where different people are to sit, cards will
not be necessary except for a large dinner. Here good servants
are of use, for they may quietly help her by indicating where
different people belong.
As soon as a guest is seated, and has taken his napkin and Serving the
bread from his plate, the butler puts down on it another on ^*^^^s^s-
which are oysters, clams, or melons, according to the season,
neatly arranged on a small doily. Oysters and clams should be
served on plates of cracked ice, six or eight on each plate, with
a quarter of a lemon in the centre. Although the former are
said to be better if eaten from their deep shell, for formal
dinners they look rather prettier on their flat upper one. The
plates should be placed on the plates already in front of each
guest, after the napkins have been lifted. As the butler puts
52 MRS. seely's cook book
down the oysters or clams, the footman should follow with a
small silver tray on which are black cayenne, liquid red pepper,
and grated horseradish. Brown-bread sandwiches, cut very
thin, and spread with unsalted butter, are also handed with this
course. Black pepper and sifted sugar are the accompaniments
of melons.
When the oysters have been eaten, their plates are taken
away, and the soup plate is put down on the plate which was
on the table at the beginning. When caviar sandwiches or
anchovy toast are served instead of oysters, they are always
handed, and when the plates on which they have been eaten
are taken away, the bare cloth is left, on which the soup plate
is put down. In England the soup is always put down directly
on the table, and there is no prejudice against seeing the bare
cloth between courses, which makes service much easier than
when plates are put down and whisked off again unused. The
next course is soup, which is brought in from the pantry in
a tureen, provided there is the " working serving-table," safely
hidden by a screen. If there is no second serving-table, the
soup is served from the pantry. The butler has the soup plates
ready, and ladles the soup into them with a ladle or often a
tea-cup, about six tablespoonfuls being considered the proper
quantity to put in each plate, and the footmen set the soup
plate in the front of each guest.
When this course is finished, the two plates should be
removed and replaced by a clean one. Plates should always be
lifted by the left hand, and the fresh ones put in their places
by the right. Then the hors d'oeuvres, such as celery, olives,
etc., are passed on a tray. These plates are then replaced by
hot ones for the fish.
In placing plates for the fish, the butler takes one in
hand, and goes round the table from . right to left, usually
beginning with the lady who sits on the host's right. He
should always put down the first plate with his left hand,
DINNERS AND DINNER-GIVING 53
and then transfer the other, that he may put it down with the
left hand also, and this rule applies to all table service. The
reason for it may easily be seen if any one will take the trouble
to try the experiment when people are sitting at a table, of
serving with one hand and then the other. He will find that
if he uses the left hand he faces the guest, and takes up much
less room than if he tries to use his right, because that brings
his shoulder in the way. Knives are the only things properly
put on the table with the right hand, because they are slipped
on the table at a guest's right, other service being always at
the left. In putting on forks the butler goes from left to
right, because it is easier to slip them in at the left side.
Boiled or fried fish is served upon a napkin, but with a baked Serving
fish a napkin is not used, as it is often customary to pour sauce ^^^'
over the baked fish. The fish is passed, each guest helping him-
self. Smelts are invaluable for dinners, because it is so easy to
help one's self to them, or fillets of fish, which often have
their sauce on the dish. If broiled shad is given, each piece
should be carefully cut apart from the others on the dish,
before it is handed, so that it may be lifted easily, and the
same rule applies to boiled and baked fish. With boiled fish,
boiled potatoes cut into small balls are sometimes served,
though not so often as formerly ; with baked or fried fish,
sliced cucumbers, made very cold, with dressing of oil and
vinegar.
For a dinner of six there should always be two servants, if Service for
possible, and even then, unless they work well together, things ^}^^^^ ^^
which should be served at the same time do not always manage
to make connections. We can all remember feasts where he
who came last in order of service did not get any sauce until
his fish was cold, nor any vegetable until he had eaten his
meat. The butler should hand the fish, and the footman follow
him with the sauce and cucumbers, for instance, on the same
tray.
54
MBS, SEELY'S COOK BOOK
The ideal dinner for quick service is one where everything
is taken directly from the kitchen to the plate, and where no
carving nor division is needed. For instance, if there are
smelts, lamb chops with peas in the same dish, and small birds,
the party stands a better chance of getting away from the
table in good time than if they are given broiled shad, spring
lamb, and roast chicken, each of which requires time spent on
it between the kitchen and table. Young housekeepers will
spare themselves much anguish of mind by remembering this,
especially if they have only maids, as not one woman in a hun-
dred has been taught to carve well and quickly.
At restaurants the dish ordered is usually shown to the
giver of the dinner before it is taken away to be cut up, but
this is not done in a private house.
It is usual, but by no means obligatory, to have an entree
between the fish and the meat.
The entree is always handed; and when it has been eaten,
the second fork which was put on the table when it was set
will have been used. If but two were placed at first, fresh
forks must be given for the meat. After the entree plate
has been removed, the butler takes the requisite number of
knives on a small tray, and places them first, following them
with the forks, and putting them on as we have just described.
Fresh knives and forks should never be put on the table during
a course, nor laid on the clean plate.
If the dish of meat must be carved, the butler does it at the
serving-table or in the pantry, and the footman can easily take
two plates, one in either hand. By the time he has put on
four plates he may begin to hand the sauce or vegetables, as
the butler, if he is at all quick, can easily finish the carving
for eight people, let us say, and can then put down the last
four plates. Ordinarily, in this country, as soon as a plate
which has been used is taken away, a clean one is put in its
place, which is all right if the next dish is to be handed ; but if
DINNERS AND DINNER-GIVING 65
each guest is to be helped to his share, it will be better from
the point of view of service not to put on any plates after the
last preceding course, as it is manifestly impossible, with one
pair of hands, to get an empty plate out of the way, and put Removing
two full ones down. As a general rule, no plate should be p^*^®^-
removed at any course until every one at the table has finished,
but this rule must be broken sometimes at a large dinner, as
one talkative or deliberate person may keep the whole service
back indefinitely.
Our service, which is mainly modelled on that of the French,
differs from theirs in two particulars. We serve a separate
vegetable such as artichokes, cauliflower, or asparagus between
the principal dish of meat and the game, whereas the French
prefer it after the latter, and we usually serve cheese, for some
strange reason, before the sweet dish, while in Europe it comes
just before the fruit, as it is especially intended to take away
the taste of sweet things from the palate, and prepare it for the
fine wines, such as port and madeira, which are served with the
fruit. Cheese is often replaced in England by various dishes Cheese.
known as "savories/' and they are gaining ground in this
country. A typical savory is made of cheese, highly seasoned
with red pepper, in a souffle, or small sandwiches of caviar are
handed as a savory, the object being always to stimulate appe-
tite, or rather thirst. If frozen punch is to be used, it must Frozen
come before the game. It is generally served in small glasses, P^^^-
one standing on each plate with small spoon on the plate with
the glass.
Supposing that the dish of meat has been followed by a
vegetable, such as asparagus, the next course would be game,
and this may be preceded or replaced by what is called a
" chaudfroid," for which there is no name in English. Its
French title, however, " hotcold," describes it well. A chaud-
froid is something which has necessarily been cooked, therefore
was hot, but which is cold when one eats it. Fillets of game or Chaudfroid.
5Q
MBS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
poultry with a cold sauce, for instance, is a very common chaud-
froid, and salad is served with these dishes, as with game or
pates. Some people like crescent-shaped side plates for salad,
which is sensible when game is served, for the cold dressing and
the hot juice do not mingle well, but on the other hand they take
up room and complicate the service. Spring chickens, squabs,
or a fine old ham may take the place of game, or again, at an
informal dinner, cheese may be served with the salad.
After the last course, which is usually the cheese, with
which bread or biscuits are served, the crumbs should be re-
moved from the table. If there are many large pieces of bread
or rolls left, the footman should go first and pick up each one
with a fork, placing it upon a clean plate which he holds in his
other hand, and he is followed by the butler, who collects the
crumbs with a silver scoop or scraper, or, in some. houses, with
a clean napkin folded over into a small roll. This, however, is
not as effective as the silver scoop. All plates, small silver,
salts and peppers, hors d'ceuvres, and glasses which will not be
again needed, are taken off the table.
Then the dessert and fruit plates with the finger-bowls are
put before the guests. Each fruit plate bears a small ornamental
doily with a finger-bowl about one-third full of water with the
chill off, and often with a sprig of rose geranium or verbena in it,
or a few violets or pansies. With the plates are placed fork,
dessert spoon, and fruit knife. After the hostess lifts her
finger-bowl from her plate, the guests lift theirs. The dessert
is now passed, each individual helping himself. The dessert
plates are then removed, and plates are then served for fruit,
fresh and candied, etc., which are then handed.
Dessert being finished, the hostess leads the ladies to the
drawing room and the gentlemen follow soon, after coffee and
liqueurs have been served to them and those have smoked who
wish to do so. The smoking may take place either in the din-
ing room or smoking room or library, as circumstances dictate.
DINNERS AND DINNER-GIVING 51
At the same time coffee and liqueurs are also served to the
ladies in the drawing room ; while later in the evening, after the
gentlemen have joined the ladies, apollinaris or some other
sparkling mineral water is handed.
A smart dinner to-day is served in an hour, or very little
longer, and as the gentlemen do not stay in the smoking room
more than fifteen or twenty minutes, and the company remains
together in the drawing-room for about the same time, it is easy
to see that the whole entertainment may be easily got through
with in a couple of hours, leaving the rest of the evening free.
This is an immense improvement over the ponderous feasts of
even a dozen years ago, when people sat for hours in a hot room
eating five times as much as they wanted, and perhaps tired to
death of their companions.
We have spoken here of a small dinner, for six or eight, but Service for
the same general rules apply to larger ones. At these, two ^^^^er
soups, a thick and a clear one, are still often given, the footman
carrying both soup plates, and saying to each guest, for instance,
" Julienne or gumbo ? " A light entree, such as a souffle of
cheese, or chicken in little cases, or a vol-au-vent is sometimes
served between the soup and the fish ; the fish is in some
rather ornamental form, such as little fillets, but the useful fried
smelt still holds his place. Then comes another entree, perhaps
of sweetbreads or a mousse or timbale. Then the meat, the
separate vegetable, the roast or chaudfroid with salad, the sweet
dish, or even two of them, such as a baba followed by ice-cream,
or the second sweet may be replaced by a savory.
The necessity for good service cannot be too much insisted
upon. One servant to five guests is the very smallest number Proportion
with which a large dinner can be well carried off, and then only ^^ guests'**
if the servants are used to working together. It is better to
allow one to four, especially if you have to call in professional
waiters. For this reason it is more economical to have eighteen
people rather than sixteen ; you will need four servants to take
58
MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Service for
more than
ten.
Butler's
duties.
Wines.
proper care of the smaller number, and they can just as well
manage two more. Unless you have an accomplished chef, or
a cordon bleu, be careful to have only dishes which your cook
knows by heart and is sure to make well ; a large dinner strains
the resources of an ordinary establishment, and is no time for
experiment or uncertainty. If your artist sometimes fails in
her clear soups, but has a talent for creams and purees, choose
one of the latter, and select entrees with which she always suc-
ceeds. No matter whether some or all of your guests have had
the same thing at your house before, they will probably not
notice if they are enjoying themselves ; and even if they do, it is
infinitely better than that there should be a dreary pause, fol-
lowed by some dish which is an evident failure, to the mortifica-
tion of the hostess.
If there are more than ten people, two dishes of everything
which is handed should be started at the same time, as it takes
too long for one to make its way round. Service begins with
the lady who sits on the host's right, or whom he has taken in;
but when there are two dishes, the second should start with the
hostess, who sets a good example by helping herself, whether
she wants any or not, and also makes the first cut into a timbale
or anything of that sort.
A clearly written list of the dinner, with the accessories to
each course, should be posted in the pantry, and each servant
should know what he or she is to do. If the butler is compe-
tent, he will, of course, attend to this, and if possible he should
never leave the dining room, where his especial duty, besides
carving, is, as his name implies, to serve wines. These commonly
are now : a white wine with the oysters, and Sherry with the
soup ; Champagne is served with the fish, and continued through-
out the dinner ; good claret is given with the roast and game.
Port with the cheese or savory, and Madeira with the fruit ; but
the only real necessaries are Sherry and Champagne. Madeira
should always be served with terrapin. Table claret is often
r
DINNERS AND DINNER-GIVING 59
offered after the soup, and if a guest accepts, his glass is filled
about a third full, and he is given his choice of plain or mineral
water. Both of these waters should just have come off the ice,
but it is better to put none in the tumblers, as some people dis-
like it. In these days of gout and diet, so many persons drink
Scotch whiskey and soda that it is usually offered, especially
if Champagne is refused ; and if whiskey is accepted, it is often
served in tall glasses, which are ready on the sideboard, leaving
the ordinary tumblers for water. These water tumblers should
not, by the way, be filled beforehand, as is sometimes done.
Good claret should stand in a warm room before it is wanted,
to let it settle and get mellow, for if it comes directly from the
cellar it has a rough taste and no bouquet.
Sherry for soup, on the other hand, is better if it has been
kept all day in a bottle in the ice-chest, and only decanted just
before dinner. A " brut " Champagne is usually served now, so
cold that it is almost oily when poured out, with very little
foam. This does not mean that it is flat, however, for the little
bubbles of gas may be seen rising steadily from the bottom.
Although this chapter is nominally limited to dinners, a Luncheons,
few words may be added about luncheon, which, among people
who go out or entertain much, is not the elaborate function
sometimes described. If the hostess is so lucky as to have a
handsome mahogany table, there is often no cloth to hide it.
There may be a centrepiece of lace or embroidery, and in that
case it is pretty to have it match the napkins or doilies, and
also the other little doilies which protect the table from being
scratched by the plates. Grapefruit, bouillon, or clam broth
is served first, and then there may be eggs in some ornamental
fashion, stuffed, or with a sauce, or else lobster in chops, or a la
Newburg, or broiled smelts — any little dish of eggs or fish.
Then may come lamb chops, or little fillets of any meat, with
potatoes and one other vegetable, and then birds or broiled
chicken, or an aspic of some sort, with a salad, and afterward an
60 MRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
omelette souffle, a biscuit, or ice-cream. Black coffee is served
afterward. Sherry and claret, or white wine, are usually on
the table; whiskey and soda may be offered, but most ladies
drink only mineral water at luncheon. Champagne should be
served only late in the day. A simple luncheon would con-
sist of eggs or fish in some form, one dish of meat, and cold
ham with salad, or cream cheese with jam, followed by stewed
fruit or custards baked in little cups. In summer the mistress
and the cook should exercise their ingenuity in devising all
sorts of attractive cold dishes, and a good butler can always
make several varieties of cup, although many persons prefer
iced tea or coffee.
We add three simple menus, for dinners of six, ten, and
sixteen people respectively. Fourteen, by the way, is a number
to be avoided if possible, as among so many some one is likely
to drop out at the last moment, leaving one with the dreaded
thirteen.
For a Dinner of Six.
Oysters or Clams.
Brown-bread Sandwiches.
JuHenne Soup.
Broiled Kingfish, Maitre d'Hotel Sauce. Cucumbers.
Lamb Chops, Soubise Sauce.
Potato Croquettes. Peas.
Fresh Asparagus.
Roast Capon, Romaine Salad.
Apple Charlotte.
Fruit. Dessert.
For a Dinner of Ten.
Sandwiches of Caviar.
Cream of Tomatoes. Croutons.
Timbale of Chicken, surrounded with stewed fresh Mushrooms.
DINNERS AND DINNER-GIVING • 61
Saddle of Mutton.
Potatoes. String Beans.
Chaudfroid of Quails.
Virginia Ham. Tomato Mayonnaise.
Biscuit Glacd.
Fruit. Dessert.
Dinner of Sixteen.
Oysters or Clams.
(Two Soups.)
Consomme, with squares of Custard. Cream of Chicken.
Smelts.
Mousse of Ham.
Fillet of Beef.
Potatoes. Stuffed Tomatoes.
Pate de foie gras in aspic.
Toasted Biscuits.
Wild Duck. Celery Salad.
Ice-cream. Cakes.
Cheese Souffle.
Fruit. Dessert.
WINES.
Decanting, Warming, Cooling, and Serving.
Wines and liquors are commonly in the keeping of the
butler — in fact, the word '' butler " is derived from the Latin
huticula^ a little bottle, through the French houteillier^ bottler.
In the drinking habits of the old days, the care of the wine and
liquors and the constant and gross serving of them might have
kept a man busy in a menage of not great size. In our own
times, however, when wines are so commonly bought bottled,
and the organization of households has become more complex.
62 MRS. seely's cook book
the duties of butler have broadened and refined. Still the
butler in these times has charge of the bottling and binning
and of the temperature of the wine cellar or wine room, and
he should know enough of that strange and living thing called
wine to help his employer choose the right material, if his ad-
vice is asked, and to keep all wines and liquors in his charge
under conditions most favorable to their development and per-
fection. He should never leave wine in cases, but unpack and
bin it as soon as it arrives.
Rules for the decanting of wine have from time to time been
given, but for Ports and clarets and such as show a deposit on
the bottle, none are better than the following: —
In decanting, the butler should first take all possible care in
removing the bottles from their bins, and never fail to lay the
bottle down on the side it has been lying in the bin. The de-
posit the wine has cast upon the side of the bottle not only
destroys the brilliancy of the wine, but also its flavor and
aroma. Then he should be sure of the quality of each bottle,
that is, he should guard against serving bottles tasting or smell-
ing of corks rotten or decayed by fungous growths. It is hardly
necessary to add that he should see that his decanter is brilliantly
clean inside and out.
After he has taken the bottle of wine out of the bin he
should carefully lay it on the table, keeping still the same posi-
tion. If two laths have been nailed on his decanting table, he
will have gained a steady base for work. Let him hold the
bottle tightly with one hand, and after slowly tipj^ing it obliquely
till the wine no longer touches the cork, he should apply his
corkscrew and extract the cork without the slightest shake or
movement to the bottle.
A candle set the other side of the bottle will permit him to
see through the wine, and in drawing it into the decanter he
should watch its condition. As soon as the cloud or deposit in
the bottle nears the neck, he should stop ; for not a particle of
DINNERS AND DINNER-GIVING 63
such deposit, cloud or crust, should flow into the decanter. But
this clouded wine should not be wasted. It will mix, especially
if Port wine or Sherry. Put the bottoms of wines together in
the kitchen-use bottle ; for such mixtures are good for flavoring
soups, puddings, and jellies.
Another good old-fashioned rule in decanting is this : When
a bottle is three-fourths decanted, even if the deposit is still un-
disturbed, decant the remainder in a wine glass, and add from
the glass to the decanter, as long as the cloud does not reach
the glass.
Do not decant more wine than will be needed. The aroma
is lost if the wine is too much exposed. Heavier wines should be
decanted first ; the lighter wines later, since their ethers are more
volatile. Old Sherry may be decanted the day before it is used,
and the decanter left without its stopper. Hock, upon the other
hand, should be decanted an hour before it is served. Some
judges of wine would decant claret as it is wanted, having kept
it at a temperature of seventy degrees for ten or twelve hours
before serving, while others would decant it two hours before it
is drunk. Port should be decanted not more than two or three
hours before it is served. Champagne it is not necessary to de-
cant when it is under ten years old. In opening Champagne
bottles, cut the wire and strings at the bottle's rim. Then hold
the cork down with the left thumb and with a pointed piece of
wood cleanse the rim. Extract the cork slowly so that no noise
is caused, and have glasses at hand to hold the flow of a lively
bottle.
In serving wines the taste of the guests should be considered,
and after that the occasion, and the temperature and humidity
of the outdoor air. Some temperaments and physiques with
blood oxygenated by an outdoor life enjoy a heavier and rich
wine ; the sedentary student is apt to take a lighter and drier
vintage. The milder wines naturally come first. If more than
one quality of a wine is served, the younger should come first.
64 MRS. SEELT'S cook BOOK
Claret should be served warm — not warmer than eighty de-
grees and not cooler than sixty-five degrees. The medium point
of seventy degrees brings out the qualities of the wine. The
bouquet is lost if it is too warm. Bordeaux and Burgundy
should have the same temperature as claret, except Chablis and
other white Burgundy, which should be at forty-five degrees.
Port should be served at a temperature of from fifty to fifty -six
degrees — the point fifty-five is a much approved one. Madeira
takes sixty-five degrees as the temperature best adapted to its
constitution, Sauterne and other white claret fifty degrees, and
Sherry is best at forty or forty-two degrees. Champagne should
have a temperature of thirty-four. To cool this wine, lay it on
ice, the sweet several hours before using, the dry for half or
three-quarters of an hour. In laying the bottles on the ice, or
in a pan of cracked ice, have care not to shake the bottle.
With oysters may go Chablis, Sauterne, a light Moselle or
Hock.
After soup, an old Madeira or Tokay or Sherry.
With fish, Sauterne, Hock, Chablis.
With entrees. Claret, Bordeaux, Burgundy.
With roasts, Champagne, Moselle, or fair claret.
With game. Burgundy, claret.
Sweets, Madeira, Port, Sherry or Champagne.
People of a discriminating palate often pronounce for one
good wine at a dinner. That wine, it should be added, is not
Champagne — the drinking of which with all kinds of food
some epicures pronounce a gastronomic sin. The same authority
also advises us to avoid as poisons the serving and drinking of
all brandies, whiskeys, and sodas, after wine.
CHAPTER II
Selection of Fish
Fresh fish are hard when pressed by the finger ; the gills
red, the eyes full. If the flesh is flabby and the eyes sunken,
the fish are stale. Fish should be thoroughly washed, cleaned,
wiped, and sprinkled with salt.
The earthy taste often found in fresh-water fish can be re-
moved by soaking it in salt water. Most kinds of salt fish
should be soaked in cold water for twenty-four hours, the fleshy
side turned down in the water. Never soak fresh fish in water
unless frozen.
Before broiling fish rub the gridiron with a piece of fat to pre-
vent the fish sticking. Lay the skin side down first.
In boiling put the fish into cold water to which a little salt
and vinegar have been added. Serve fish always with sauce.
Selection of Meats
In selecting beef, choose that of a fine smooth grain, of a
bright red color and white fat. The third, fourth, fifth, and
sixth ribs of beef are the choicest cuts for a roast. Have the
bones removed and the meat rolled. The butcher should send
the bones for a soup.
The flesh of good veal is firm and dry and the joints stiff.
The flesh of good mutton or lamb is a bright red, with the
fat firm and white.
If the meat of pork is young, the lean will break on being
pinched, the fat will be white, soft, and pulpy.
To judge the Age of Poultry and Game
The breast-bone should bend easily from side to side.
Broilers are best from one to two pounds. Fowls for roasting
p 65
66 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
can be judged by the wings. If the skin breaks when the wing
is turned toward the head, the fowl is tender. Old fowls have
scaly legs and the breast-bone is hard and will not bend.
Turkey, The cock bird has a smooth black leg mth a short
spur. The eyes are bright and full and the feet supple when
the bird is fresh. The absence of these signs denotes age and
staleness. The hen bird may be judged by the same rules.
Creese. In young geese the feet and bill are yellow and free
from hair. When fresh, the feet are pliable ; they are stiff
when stale.
Buck may be judged by the same rule.
Plover when fat have hard vents, but like all other birds
may be chosen by the above rules.
In the partridge yellow legs and a dark bill are signs by
which a young bird may be known. Rigid vent, when fresh ;
when this part is green, the bird is stale.
Pheasants. The young birds are known by the short or
rounded spur which in the old is long and pointed.
G-rouse, woodcock, and quail may be chosen by the above
rules.
TIME-TABLE FOR COOKING
Boiling
Asparagus Twenty to twenty-five minutes.
Beans, string Twenty to thirty minutes and a
little soda to make them green.
Beans, Lima One-half hour.
Beef, corned Or k la Mode, three to five hours.
Beets Four to five hours.
Brussels sprouts Ten to fifteen minutes.
Cabbage One hour.
Carrots One hour.
Cauliflower Twenty to thirty minutes.
Celery Twenty to thirty minutes.
Chicken Ten minutes to each pound. It de-
pends on the age of the chicken.
Clams Cook until they just come to a boil.
TIME-TABLE FOR COOKING 67
Coffee Three to five minutes.
Corn, sweet Salted, boiling water, five to eight
minutes.
Cornmeal Three hours.
Eggs, hard-boiled Fifteen minutes.
Eggs, soft-boiled Three ndnutes.
Fish, cubical, such as cod, halibut, etc. Twenty minutes for each pound.
Fish, long and whole Six to ten minutes for each pound.
Ham Five hours.
Hominy, fine One hour.
Mutton Two to three hours.
Oatmeal, rolled One-half hour.
Onions Forty-five minutes.
Oysters Cook until they just come to a boil.
Peas Fifteen to twenty minutes.
Parsnips Forty-five minutes.
Pigeon, potted Two hours.
Potatoes Twenty to thirty minutes.
Rice Fifteen to twenty minutes.
Soup stock Three to six hours.
Spinach Twenty to thirty minutes, and a
little soda to make it green.
Squash Twenty to thirty minutes.
Tea To steep three to five minutes.
Tomatoes Fifteen to twenty minutes.
Tongue Three to four hours.
Turnips, yellow One and one-half hours.
Turnips, white One hour.
Veal, per pound Eighteen to twenty minutes.
Rules for boiling Meat
All fresh meat, unless for soup, should be put into boiling water. The
outer part is contracted by the heat, and the juices are preserved. The meat
should be allowed to cook very gently and no salt added until it is nearly
done.
In boiling meats it is important to keep the water constantly boiling,
otherwise the meat will absorb the water. Be careful to add boiling water
if more is needed. Remove the scum when it first begins to boil. Allow
about twenty minutes for boiling for each pound of fresh meat. The more
gently the meat boils, the more tender it will be.
68 MBS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
Salt meats should be put into cold water and boiled slowly, that the salt
may be extracted in cooking.
A red pepper dropped into the water will prevent the rising of any un-
pleasant odor.
For making soup put the meat on the fire in cold water.
Baking and Roasting
Beans Eight to ten hours.
Beef, braised Three to four hours.
Beef, fillet of Thirty minutes.
Beef, roast, rare Twelve to fifteen minutes per pound.
Biscuit, rolls Twenty minutes.
Bread Forty to sixty minutes.
Cake, sponge Forty-five to sixty minutes.
Cakes, thin Twenty to thirty minutes.
Chicken One to one and one-half hours.
Custards Twenty to forty-five minutes.
Duck, canvasback and redhead Eighteen minutes.
Duck, tame One to one and one-half hours.
Fish, cubical or thick . . . Forty-five to sixty minutes.
Fish, small and whole . . . Twenty to thirty minutes.
Gems Twenty to thirty minutes.
Lamb One and one-fourth to one and one-half hours.
Muffins Twenty to thirty minutes.
Mutton One and one-quarter to one and one-half
hours.
Patties Fifteen to twenty-five minutes.
Pies Thirty to forty minutes.
Pork Two to three hours.
Potatoes Thirty to sixty minutes.
Pudding Twenty to forty-five minutes.
Scalloped dishes Fifteen to thirty minutes.
Turkey Two to three hours. Per pound, fifteen
minutes.
Veal Two to three hours.
Rules for roasting Meat
In roasting beef it is necessary to have a brisk fire. Baste often. Twelve
minutes are required for every pound of beef. Season when nearly done.
Clean meats by wiping them with a cloth kept for that purpose. Do not
put meat into water.
TIME-TABLE FOR COOKING 69
Broiling
Bacon Four to eight minutes.
Birds Six to eight minutes.
Chicken Fifteen minutes per pound.
Chops Six to eight minutes.
Fish, small and thin Five to eight minutes.
Fish, thick Twelve to fifteen minutes.
Liver Four to eight minutes.
Squab Ten to fifteen minutes.
Steak, one inch thick Six to eight minutes.
Steak, one and one-half inches thick Eight to ten minutes.
Tripe Four to eight minutes.
To broil Meat Well
Have your gridiron well greased and hot before you put the meat on.
Broiling is not only the most rapid manner of cooking meat, but is justly
a favored one. It has nearly the same effect upon meat as roasting. The
albumen of the meat is hardened and forming a skin it retains the juices.
Broiling meat should be turned rapidly in order to produce an equal effect,
but it should not be punctured with a fork.
Prying
Have fat at a boiling heat.
Bacon, fried in its own fat Two to three minutes.
Chops, breaded .... Five to eight minutes.
Croquettes One minute.
Doughnuts Three to five minutes.
Fish balls One minute.
Fish, breaded Five to eight minutes.
Fish, small Two to five minutes.
Fritters Three to five minutes.
Potatoes Two to five minutes.
Steaming
Brown bread Three hours.
Puddings, one quart or more Two to three hours.
B-ice Forty-five to sixty minutes.
CHAPTER III
Table of Measures
Sixty drops = one teaspoonful.
Three teaspoonfuls = one tablespoonful.
Four tablespoonfuls = one quarter of a cup.
One round tablespoonful butter = one ounce.
One cup solid butter, granulated sugar, or milk = one-half pound.
One scant cup rice = one-half pound.
Two cups flour = one-half pound.
Two heaping cups coffee = one-half pound.
Nine large eggs = one pound.
A cupful means one-half pint.
The old-fashioned china cup is best to use when a half-pint measure is
not at hand.
Table of Proportions
One cup liquid to three cups flour for bread.
One cup liquid to two cups flour for muffins.
One cup liquid to one cup flour for batter.
Liquids scant, flour full measure.
One teaspoonful soda to one pint sour milk.
One teaspoonful soda to one cup molasses.
One-fourth teaspoonful salt to one quart custard.
One teaspoonful salt to one quart water.
One-fourth teaspoonful salt to one cup white sauce.
One-eighth teaspoonful white pepper to one cup white sauce.
One-eighth teaspoonful salt equals one pinch.
Weights and Measures
4 gills 1 pint.
2 pints 1 quart.
4 quarts 1 gallon.
16 ounces 1 pound.
70
MEASURES AND PROPORTIONS 71
I kitchen cupful 1 gill.
1 kitchen cupful | pint or two gills.
4 kitchen cupfuls 1 quart.
2 cupfuls of granulated sugar • ) -• ■,
2| cupfuls of powdered sugar . ) *
1 heaping tablespoonful of sugar 1 ounce.
1 heaping tablespoonful of butter
-r, , . - I 2 ounces or 4 cupful.
Butter size of an egg . . . . >
1 cupful of butter ^ pound.
4 cupfuls of flour ) ,
1 heaping quart )
8 round tablespoonfuls of dry material = 1 cupful.
16 tablespoonfuls of liquid = 1 cupful.
Proportions
5 to 8 eggs to 1 quart of milk for custards.
3 to 4 eggs to 1 pint of milk for custards.
1 saltspoonful of salt to one quart of milk for custards.
1 teaspoonful of vanilla to one quart of milk for custards.
2 ounces of gelatine to If quarts of liquid.
4 heaping tablespoonfuls of corn-starch to one quart of milk.
3 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder to one cupful of flour.
1 teaspoonful of soda to one pint of sour milk.
1 teaspoonful of soda to | pint of molasses.
1 teaspoonful of baking powder is the equivalent of ^ teaspoonful of
soda and 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar.
Read this Advice
In cooking follow as far as possible the rule of the druggist in compound-
ing any mixture, that is, mix the ingredients thoroughly, putting in one at
a time. For instance, if you have three ingredients mix two before adding
the third, and stir in the third well before adding a fourth, and so on. All
compounds gain from following this rule.
The value of a pan of hot water in cooking cannot be overestimated.
Set in the upper oven, it insures good baking. If the oven becomes too hot,
use cold water in the upper pan. In heating vegetables, canned corn for
instance, upon the top of the range, setting the saucepan in a pan of hot
water saves much labor and watching. Besides this, the use keeps sauce-
pans in good condition until fairly worn out. All breakfast grains or cereals
72 MBS. seelt's cook book
should be cooked in this manner. A pan of hot water furnishes a double
boiler ready at hand at all times.
A most important kitchen utensil is a good set of scales and weights.
They are indispensable to assure success in cooking. Without them there
is no precision in proportioning the various ingredients. Therefore it is
absolutely necessary to have a set of scales. The cook should bear in mind
always to put the weights away in their place and to keep the scales in
thorough order. In weighing anything of a greasy nature the cook should
place a piece of paper on the scales. By doing this she will save herself
much trouble, and keep her scales clean.
Milk and butter should be kept in closely covered vessels so they will
not absorb odors from other articles.
The time during which an article is coming to the boiling-point cannot
be counted in any rule or measure for boiling.
Always use porcelain-lined pans for cooking fruits or an acid preparation.
CHAPTER IV
SOUPS
^ Bouillon
Select a piece of the luicler round of beef, weighing about
ten pounds. Trim off all the fat and cut off a piece weighing
about one pound. Cut the rest in small pieces. Put it in a soup
kettle with nine pints of water. Let it slowly come to a boil.
Skim thoroughly and move the kettle back where the liquid will
keep boiling slowly but steadily for six hours. Then add one
large onion sliced thin, one slice of carrot, a slice of turnip, and
a small muslin bag containing the following spices and herbs :
three dozen pepper corns, six whole cloves, small piece of cin-
namon, two sprigs of thyme and summer savory, three bay
leaves, a small leaf of sage, two sprigs of parsley, and three
blades of celery. Also stir in three teaspoonfuls of salt. Let
all cook one hour, then draw the kettle to the front of range
and boil vigorously for one minute. Strain and set away to
cool. The next day skim off all the grease. Put stock into
the soup kettle with the piece of meat which was cut off the day
before. See that it is chopped very fine. Beat the whites of
three eggs until very light, stir into the kettle with other in-
gredients. Place on the range and heat slowly to the boiling-
point. Stir occasionally. When the soup bubbles, move the
kettle to the back part of the range, cover, and keep just at the
boiling-point for one hour. Taste to see whether it has suf-
ficient seasoning. Strain through a wet bag and it is ready to
serve.
Court Bouillon, see p. 101.
73
74 MRS. seely's cook book
Pot au Feu
The true way to cook this national dish of France is in an
earthen pot or pipkin. This pot has a close-fitting lid, is very
strong, and is most excellent for the slow cooking which the
success of the dish demands. The earthen pot may be had in
this country and also a very good substitute may be purchased.
The soup or broth is made afresh once or twice a week by
every family in France not too poor to afford it. It is often
served on the first day with slices of bread, on the second with
variations of vermicelli, rice, or other garnishes. The general
process of making it is always the same. The popular treat-
ment is thus described by a famous cook : The soup pot of the
French artisan supplies his principal nourishment and is thus
managed by his wife, who, without the slightest knowledge of
chemistry, conducts the process in a truly scientific manner.
She first lays the meat in her earthen stock pot and pours cold
water to it in the proportion of about two quarts to three
pounds of beef. She then places it on the fire where it slowly
becomes hot, and as it does so the heat enlarges the fibre of the
meat, dissolves the gelatinous substances which it contains,
allows the albumen to disengage itself and the most savory parts
of the meat to be diffused through the broth. From the simple
circumstance of boiling it in the gentlest manner a savory and
nutritious soup is obtained and a dish of palatable and tender
meat. If the pot is placed over a quick fire, the albumen will
coagulate, harden the meat, prevent the water from penetrating
it, and the savors of the meat from disengaging themselves, and
the result will be a broth without flavor or tastiness and a
tough, dry piece of meat.
The broth of the dish forms in France the foundation of all
richer soups and gravies. Poured on fresh meat, it makes an
excellent consomme. If properly managed, it is clear and pale.
Poultry, pigeons, and even game may be boiled in the pot
SOUPS 75
au feu. They should be properly trussed and stewed in the
broth long enough to make them tender. A small ham also
may be laid in with the beef when the water is first added.
Boiled in this bouillon three or four hours, it is superior in
flavor to a ham cooked in water, and the taste of the ham im-
proves the soup. But the soup cannot well be eaten the day
the ham is boiled, for it must be allowed to cool and be freed
from the fat of the ham. In case you boil a salted ham in the
soup, you will of course require no other salt. The ham should
of course be freed from any rusty or blackened parts and washed
perfectly clean.
The French housewife begins her pot au feu soon after
breakfast and puts the ingredients gradually in the pot. Thus
by the end of the day and the independent cooking of the
ordinary fire of the kitchen she has her most nutritious, tooth-
some, and substantial meal.
One way to make it is this : For a large pot au feu take six
pounds of good fresh beef, cut it up and pour on it four quarts
of fresh cold water, set it over the fire, skim it when it simmers,
and after it has come to a boil add a teaspoon of salt, some pep-
per, and half a pound of liver cut in pieces. Then add two or
three large carrots, either sliced or grated, four turnips pared
and quartered, eight young onions peeled and sliced in thin
slices, two of the onions roasted whole, a head of celery cut up,
a parsnip well cut up, six potatoes hand-sliced and quartered,
tomatoes in season, and in short any appetizing vegetable. A
bunch of sweet herbs cut small and absorbed by the dish or
boiled and removed on serving also adds much to the savory
compound.
Let the whole continue to boil slowly and steadily for six
hours. Serve by laying slices of bread in a tureen or deep
platter, pour the stew or soup upon them, including not only
the broth but the meat and vegetables. What is left in the
tureen may go into the pot au feu for next day.
76 MRS. seely's cook book
For beef you may substitute mutton, venison, or other tooth-
some meats.
Pot au Feu
Take three pounds of lean beef, wind it about with twine to
keep it from boiling to pieces, lay it in the soup pot, and pour
over it about six quarts of fresh cold water. Set the pot over
the fire and when the water begins to boil add two carrots, three
onions, one having been stuck with three or four cloves, and in
its season one turnip. To this pot au feu may be also added
various bones and meats of the larder still sweet and holding
their natural oils and flavors; for instance, a beefsteak bone, or
chicken head, etc.
Let the soup boil slowly six or seven hours, then take it off
the fire, strain, and set away in a dark, cool place. For immediate
use take the lower part and every morning skim and bring it to
a boil so that the supply from which you draw daily may not
spoil.
The meat of the pot au feu, which the French call boeuf
bouilli and eat, is commonly served with the vegetables cooked
with it and dressed with some piquant sauce, or egg sauce.
Beef Broth
Four pounds of soup beef, eight quarts of water, two table-
spoons of salt. Boil slowly, remove the scum, add one carrot,
one turnip, one onion with three cloves stuck in it, a clove of
garlic, two leeks and a stalk of celery tied together. Cover
partially, add a little water when required to replace that evapo-
rated, and let simmer five hours. Skim the fat and strain
through a wet bag.
Beef Soup
Take four pounds of beef, not too fat, four whole onions
medium size, five small carrots or one large one, and cover with
cold water. When all come to a boil, boil slowly and skim.
SOUPS 77
Then add salt and pepper carefully. Set back on the stove and
simmer until the meat is very well done. Take off the stove and
add two or three small strips of green pepper while hot. Set in a
cold place over night. Next day skim all the grease off, remove
the beef and vegetables save the carrot. Strain the soup, return
it to the kettle, add the carrot, boil or simmer until the meat is
heated well through. Thicken with flour and water stirred
smoothly until a little thick. Boil rice, well done, in a rice
boiler. Place a tablespoon of rice in a soup plate and pour the
soup over it. To this can be added pieces of the meat and
carrot if desired, or it can be used as a clear soup. It is im-
proved by chopped parsley added after the soup is thickened,
and let stand a short time to extract the flavor.
Mutton Soup
Mutton makes a very delicate soup boiled according to the di-
rections for beef soup. Use onions in the same way and flavor
with a little stewed tomatoes that have been cooked and seasoned.
Curry Soup
Put four pounds of lean beef in a kettle and pour over it three
quarts of cold water and one teaspoonful of salt. Let it stand
one hour, then set it on the fire and cook slowly for two hours.
Chop the following: two onions, two potatoes, one small carrot,
one head of lettuce, and add to the soup. Cook one hour longer,
then strain. Return to the kettle and add two tablespoonfuls
of rice, one scant tablespoonful of curry powder, season to taste,
and cook one hour longer. Serve very hot with cheese straws.
Ox-tail Soup
Cut in short pieces two ox tails and soak them in fresh water
for three hours, changing the water once in a while. Put on the
fire, cover with cold water, boil five minutes, cool and wash well.
Drain, put into a saucepan with two quarts of beef broth, two
78 MRS. seely's cook book
quarts of water, two carrots, one onion with two whole cloves
stuck in it, a bunch of parsley, a head of celery, and a little salt.
Then cook slowly for about three hours. With a skimmer
transfer the tails to another stewpan, drain the carrots, strain
and free the broth of its fat, and thicken with three ounces of
flour browned in three ounces of butter. Add two glasses
of Sherry and a glass of Port wine, white pepper, and a dash of
cayenne. Boil one hour, skim, and press through a cloth over
the ox tails. Add the carrot cut in small pieces and two dozen
small glazed onions. Boil a few minutes longer, skim again,
and serve.
Brunoise Soup
Take two each of the following vegetables : carrots, tur-
nips, onions, leeks, and a head of celery. Cut them in small
dice and fry the pieces in a pan over a slow fire with one ounce
of butter and a little sugar. If the butter be fresh, add a little
salt. When the vegetables are a light brown, pour over them
three quarts of light stock, either veal or chicken. When this
comes to a boil, skim it thoroughly and remove to the side of
the stove to boil gently until the vegetables are cooked. Then
add one-half pint of green peas, a handful of French beans cut
in diamond shape, and one-half pint of asparagus tips, these
vegetables to be boiled beforehand. After testing the flavor
and seasoning, serve very hot.
Flemish Soup
Have' at hand carrots, turnips, and cucumbers, two of each.
Peel the latter and scrape the first. Then with a vegetable
scoop cut them in fancy shapes about as big as an olive. Cut
the white part of two heads of celery and three leeks in thick
shreds about half an inch long. Blanch or parboil these for
five minutes, drain them on a sieve and place in a soup kettle
capable of holding about three quarts. Add two generous
SOUPS 79
quarts of consomme or stock. Boil until the vegetables are
sufficiently done. Boil slowly and skim occasionally. While
the soup is boiling, boil the following vegetables, which when
blanched add to the soup : one handful of Brussels sprouts,
one-half pint of young peas, a few French beans cut small, and
a handful of asparagus heads. Add a pinch of coarse white
pepper. Let the soup boil three or four minutes. Place some
dried croutons in a tureen, pour the soup upon them and serve.
Hollandaise Soup
Peel two carrots, the same number of turnips and cucumbers,
and cut them into the shape of small olives. After blanching
them, boil them in one quart of strong white broth, made of veal
or chicken. When the vegetables are cooked, remove from the
range and add the yolks of four eggs mixed with twice as much
water as there is egg liquid, one gill of cream, and a small lump
of butter. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir over the
fire until the soup is of the desired consistency and then pour into
the soup tureen containing one gill of young peas and an equal
quantity of French beans boiled tender and cut into diamonds.
Serve very hot.
Julienne Soup
Cut lengthwise in short fine shreds two carrots, two turnips,
two stalks of celery, the wliites of two leeks, a white onion, and
a few white cabbage leaves. Mix all, and with four ounces of
butter set them on the fire. Stir occasionally until quite dry.
Then add three quarts of beef broth. Boil slowly for forty-five
minutes. Skim off all the fat, add one scant teaspoonful sugar
and one-half pint of small, cooked green peas. Boil two minutes
longer with a handful of chervil, sorrel, and lettuce leaves cut in
fine shreds.
White Broth
Place in a kettle over a moderate fire a heavy knuckle of
veal with all the scraps of meat, including bones — not of game
80 MBS.
— at hand. Cover fully with cold water and add one handful
of salt. As it comes to a boil, skim carefully. No scum should
be left on. Then put in two large well-scraped carrots whole,
one whole well-cleaned turnip, one large peeled onion whole, one
well-cleaned parsley root, three thoroughly washed leeks, and a
few leaves of cleaned celery. Boil very slowly on the corner of
the range. Skim the grease off. Then strain through a wet
cloth into an earthen bowl. Set away in cool place for use
when needed.
Consomme with Vegetables
Put in a soup kettle one roasted fowl, two pounds of lean
veal, some roast beef bones (if convenient), two pounds of soup
meat, eight quarts of water, two tablespoonfuls of salt. Boil
slowly for four hours. Skim well. Then add one carrot, one
onion, one-half a parsnip, one turnip, two leeks, and a few pepper-
corns. Let all simmer for four hours. Remove all the fat and
strain through a wet cloth. This broth should be' very clear and
of a rich yellow color. With a small tin tube cut round pieces
of carrot and turnip in thin slices, add a leek cut crosswise. Par-
boil them, drain, and then boil one hour with three quarts of the
broth. Add a finely sliced small heart of lettuce, sorrell, and
chervil leaves; boil ten minutes longer. Finish with a little
sugar and three tablespoonfuls of small green asparagus tops.
Pour into a soup tureen with the crusts of two French rolls cut
in small rounds and dried in the oven. Cover the tureen. Be
sure to serve it hot.
Mock Turtle Soup, with Chicken Forcemeat Balls;
with Bgg Balls
Begin making the soup the day before it will be wanted. A
calf's head is one of the articles needed, but a part of it may be
used for dishes other than the soup. The following ingredients
will make six quarts of soup : one calf's head, one shin of
SOUPS 81
veal weighing six pounds, one onion, two tablespoonfuls of
chopped carrot, two tablespoonfuls of chopped turnip, three
stalks of celery, a piece of stick cinnamon about three inches
long, one-half a blade of mace, ten whole cloves, twenty white
peppercorns, a bay leaf, one sprig of parsley, four tablespoonfuls
of butter, six of corn-starch, a tablespoon each of walnut, mush-
room, and tomato catsup, two lemons, a quantity of cold water,
one gill or more of Port, salt and pepper, and, if one chooses,
some egg or forcemeat balls. It may seem as if six quarts of
soup were too large a quantity, therefore it may be well to say,
in explanation, that a calf's head is sufficient for that quantity,
and half of a head cannot be bought. If all the soup be not
wanted at one meal, it may be warmed again.
Have the butcher split and scrape the calf's head and saw
the bone of the shin of veal into several parts. Wash all care-
fully. Put the head into a large pan, covering it with cold
water. Soak i^ for two hours. At the end of that time take
out the brains, place the head in a large soup pot, and after
putting in the shin also, pour in eight quarts of cold water.
Heat it slowly to the boiling-point. Then skim carefully and
set the pot back where the liquor will simply bubble for three
hours. When that time has passed, take up the veal with a
skimmer and then remove the head, being careful not to break
it. Strain the stock that is in the soup pot and put all but two
quarts away to cool. These two quarts should be returned to
the kettle with the shin of veal ; the spice mentioned above
should be added and the kettle covered and set where its con-
tents will only simmer. Now put the vegetables, cut fine, and
the butter into a frying pan and fry gently for twenty minutes.
At the last moment draw the pan forward so that the vegetables
may become slightly browned by more rapid cooking. Be care-
ful they do not get burned. Add these vegetables to the veal
and stock and cook all for four hours. Then strain and put
away to cool.
82 MRS. seelt's cook book
The next morning, after skimming off all the fat, turn the two
lots of strained stock into the sou^) pot and set upon the stove.
Add the catsup, also salt and pepper in quantities to suit your
taste ; and when the soup boils up add the juice of a lemon, the
wine, and the face of the calf cut into small strips. Cover the
soup pot closely and set it back where its contents will hardly
bubble during the next fifteen minutes. It will then be ready
to serve ; but if it be intended for a late dinner it may be cooled,
put away, and heated again when wanted. Thin slices of lemon
cut in quarters and egg balls and forcemeat balls should be put
into the tureen before the soup is turned into it, if one would have
mock turtle soup in perfection. As it takes much time to make
forcemeat balls, they may be omitted, but egg balls are easily
prepared and should be used.
Chicken Forcemeat Balls
Chop very fine half of the breast of a tender chicken, pound
it in a mortar and rub it through a coarse sieve. There should
be a generous cupful of the meat after it has been rubbed through
the sieve. Pour one quarter of a cup of cream into a saucepan
with a scant quarter of a cup of fine bread crumbs and a bit of
whole mace. Cook until the mixture forms a smooth paste.
It will take about ten minutes. Remove the mace and add one
tablespoonful of butter, salt, and white pepper to taste, the
meat, and the white of an egg beaten to a stiff froth. Mix
well, and when cool form in balls about the size of grapes.
Have ready a pan of salted boiling w^ater. Cook the balls for
five minutes, turn them in a strainer and then add them to the
mock turtle soup. The above balls may be prepared three or
four hours before the soup is served.
Egg Balls
Boil four eggs for twenty minutes until hard. Plunge them
in cold water and remove the shell. Pound the yolks in a
SOUPS 83
mortar until tliey become a smooth paste. Then add one tea-
spoonful of salt, a little white pepper, and a well-beaten raw
egg. Mould the mixture into balls about the size of grapes,
and roll them in flour. Fry in hot fat until they become a light
brown. Turn them frequently while they are cooking.
French Mock Turtle Soup
Put in soup kettle half a shin of beef. Let the meat stand
in cold water one hour, add one tablespoonful of salt to draw
out the blood, then put on the fire and cook for six hours.
Skim off all the grease and scum that rise for the first hour.
Strain and set aside until the next day. Take a nice calf's
head, parboil it, take the meat off and cut in inch square pieces.
Take off the fat from the soup. Cut up two onions, one carrot,
two fresh mushrooms, one clove of garlic, and one blade of mace.
Whip up the whites and yolks of three eggs. Mix them in
with the vegetables. Pour over them the cold stock and set
on back of the range. Let mixture boil up slowly, stirring
until it comes to a boil. Then let it boil slowly for twenty
minutes. Then strain. It should be clear. Add the meat
from calf's head. Continue to boil until tender. Drop in some
egg balls, one glass Madeira wine. Serve very hot.
Dubarry Soup
Prepare two quarts of clear chicken bouillon. When ready,
add one cup of washed and drained rice and boil until it is
tender. Then rub through a sieve. Add one cup of boiled
cauliflower pulp which has also been rubbed through a sieve.
Thin this mixture to the desired consistency with cream.
Season to taste with salt and white pepper and add the well-
beaten yolks of two eggs mixed with some of the cream. Stir
over the fire until the mixture comes to a boil. Cut some
truffles in small pieces, mix with the soup, and serve very hot.
84 MRS. seely's cook book
Mulligatawny Soup
Cut up two chickens as for a fricassee, place them in a pan
with one carrot, one onion, one head of celery, and a bouquet.
Cover with a good broth made of veal, and when the chicken is
almost done, strain them off into a sieve, saving their broth in
a basin. Plunge the pieces of chicken in cold water to blanch
them, drain, and set away for future use. Now cut four large
onions in half, remove the root part, and again cut them into
slices. Place in a pan with four ounces of butter, a carrot, and
two heads of celery cut in small pieces. Fry these until the
onion is nearly melted, then stir in as much flour as will suffice
to thicken the quantity of soup you wish to make. Stir this
on the fire for a few minutes, and after stirring in one teaspoon-
ful of curry powder and the same quantity of curry paste,
gradually add the broth the cliickens were boiled in and as much
more veal broth as desired to make the required amount. When
it comes to a boil, set it at one side of the range to clarify or
settle. Rub it through a wet cloth and pour it over the pieces
of chicken. Half an hour before dinner, stir the soup over the
fire until it comes to a boil, then set it to one side and boil it
slowly for ten minutes. By that time the chicken will be done.
Skim the soup, and after tasting it to determine the seasoning,
serve it with plain boiled rice in a separate dish.
Puree of Game
Skin and clean two fat wild rabbits and wipe them with a
wet towel. Remove the fillets and free them from all the thin
skin and sinews. Draw and clean two partridges, remove all
the breast meat, lift up the skin and free the meat of the small
sinews. Put the fillets aside for future use. Cut all the car-
casses in small pieces. Place them in a soup kettle with a scant
five quarts of beef stock. Place over a hot fire and watch until
it begins to boil and remove all the scum and grease. Season
SOUPS 85
with two white onions, three medium-sized carrots, two leeks
tied with a small bay leaf and a very small bunch of thyme, one
tablespoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of black pepper.
After adding the seasoning, let the mixture boil slowly for one
hour and a half. Leave the kettle partly uncovered. When
it has boiled the given time, strain through a colander into a
large bowl. Let it become partially cool, then skim all the fat
from the surface, remove the broth from the bowl with a cup,
leaving a little in the bottom of the bowl to avoid the dregs.
Strain the second time through a wet cloth. Put two table-
spoonfuls of butter and two of flour in a saucepan. After it
has cooked for five minutes pour the broth over it, a cupful
at a time. Stir constantly. Let it simmer twenty minutes.
Remove the pan to the side of range and pour in slowly, con-
stantly stirring, one-half pint of rich cream. Do not boil after
this is in. Place the partridge and rabbit fillets as folloAvs :
cover the bottom of a roasting pan with thin slices of larding
pork. Season each one of the fillets with a little salt and pepper.
Place them side by side in the pan and cover them with a thin
layer of pork. Pour over them five tablespoonfuls of the game
broth. Bake in hot oven for fifteen minutes. Baste twice dur-
ing the cooking. Remove from the pan. Cut the rabbit fillets
in very small squares, partridge fillets in thin square slices one-
half inch wide. Serve the puree very hot after adding the
minced fillets.
Green Turtle Soup
Green turtle when prepared can be kept for weeks, and
dealers are not willing to retail it. The best way is to buy a
small turtle weighing about twenty-five pounds. If your
dealer will not prepare it, hang it by the hind legs or fins, cut
off its head and let it bleed all day. Then with a sharp knife
part the two shells, remove the intestines, take all the meat
from the shells, bones, and fins. Cut each shell in four pieces,
and plunge — for a moment only — the fins and shells in boiling
86 MBS. SEELY S COOK BOOK
water to take the horny skm off. Then make a broth as fol-
lows : Cut in pieces and put in a stock pot twenty pounds of
lean soup beef, six gallons of water, and plenty of salt. Boil
slowly and skim well ; add four onions, four carrots, four leeks,
two heads of celery, a bunch of parsley, four bay leaves, thyme,
sage, and basilic in proportion, and one handful of whole pep-
pers, a few allspice, a few whole cloves, and a few blades of mace
all tied together in a small cloth. Boil six hours and pass the
broth through a sieve into a large tin pan. Use some of this
broth diluted with water in a saucepan to cook the shells and
fins, and some in another saucepan to cook the meat. The
shells and fins require about one hour, and the meat not over
twenty minutes. When they are done, take the shells, meat, and
fins out of the broth and pass the broth through a fine strainer
into another saucepan. Remove all the bones from the shells,
fins, and meat, and cut in small square pieces. Mix the whole
and put it in a dish.
The above is the preliminary and essential preparation.
For a soup for eight persons : Thicken three quarts of broth
with four ounces of flour which has been browned in butter,
boil one-half hour, and skim well. Add one-half pint of Sherry
wine, one gill of Port wine, a dash of cayenne pepper, and a
portion of the turtle. Boil ten minutes, skim again, and serve
with slices of lemon.
To preserve what is left of the turtle, reduce to a consist-
ency the rest of the broth, add the turtle, and boil five minutes.
Put in quart tin cans, which should not be quite filled. When
cold, pour into each can, over the turtle, some melted lard to
keep out the air. Set in a cool larder for further use. One
quart is enough for eight persons.
Stewed Oysters a la Baltimore
Open neatly three dozen oysters. Place them in a sauce-
pan without their liquor and add one ounce of good butter.
SOUPS 87
Cover the pan and place it over the fire. Cook for two min-
utes. Then add one wine-glass of good Madeira wine and a
very little cayenne pepper. Cook together a little longer and
then add one gill of Espagnole sauce and one-half a glass of
demiglazed sauce. Stir thoroughly until it comes to a boil.
Just before serving add the juice of one lemon, one teaspoonful
of butter, one teaspoonful of finely chopped parsely. Serve im-
mediately in a tureen.
Oyster Bisque
Two quarts of oysters in a saucepan with a little white pep-
per, nutmeg, two blades of mace, one bay leaf, one pinch of red
pepper, two ounces of butter, one pint of white broth. Cover,
boil ten minutes, drain in a colander, and save the liquor. Then
chop the oysters very fine and put them on a plate. Knead
five ounces of flour in a saucepan with four ounces of melted
butter. Stir and cook a little without allowing to brown.
Then dilute with three pints of boiled milk and the oyster
liquor. Add the oysters, stir steadily, and boil ten minutes.
Rub through a very fine sieve and add more milk if required.
Stir and boil again. Finish with one-half pint of raw cream
and four ounces of butter in small bits. Taste, pour in soup
tureen, and serve hot, with small squares of bread fried in butter
separately on a plate.
Clam Bisque
Boil one quart of opened clams for twenty minutes in three
pints of good veal consomme. Strain and add two tablespoon-
fuls of butter, two tablespoonfuls of blended flour, and one pint
of cream. Cook for a few minutes. Then stir in the well-
beaten yolks of four eggs. Cook a few minutes longer. Sea-
son with salt and white pepper to taste.
Clam Chowder
One quart of opened hard clams, drained and chopped very
fine, two dozen soft-shell clams, chopped in the same way, with
88 MES. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
the hard part removed. Cut one quart of peeled potatoes in
small squares. Bruise and steep one-half pound of hard crackers
in cold water. Chop two large white onions and two ounces of
salt pork very fine. Put the pork and onion in a stewpan with
one ounce of butter. Fry until a light brown, add the potatoes,
six peeled and sliced tomatoes, one quart of water, three pints
of white broth, veal or chicken, ground thyme, mace, sage, and
white pepper to taste. Boil thirty minutes. Then put in the
clams with their liquor and the crackers. Boil thirty minutes
longer. Skim the fat, add four ounces of butter and chopped
parsley, mix thoroughly, and serve at once.
Pish Broth
Fry four ounces of butter with the following vegetables
sliced fine : two onions, two carrots, and two leeks. Fry until
quite dry. Then add four pounds of fish, — such as bass, black
fish, flounder, or any bony fish, — the head of a fresh cod, one
quart of white wine, and six quarts of water. Season with
salt, peppercorns, bunch of parsley, and a few blades of mace.
Cover the stewpan and boil one-half hour. Strain the broth
and free it from its fat. Chop up two pounds of cod or bass,
mix with two eggs, add the broth and a few more sliced vege-
tables. Set on the fire and stir constantly until it begins to
boil. Then let it simmer for ten minutes and strain through a
wet cloth. Pour in a tureen with three or four dozen veal
forcemeat balls fried in hot lard.
Fish Chowder
Skin a four-pound haddock, wash thoroughly, and cut the
flesh from the bones in pieces about two inches square. Cover
the head and bones with cold water and boil one-half hour.
Slice two small white onions in a pan with four slices of thin,
fat, salt pork. When tender, skim out the pork and onions and
add the strained bone liquor and one quart of sliced raw potato.
SOUPS 89
Cook for ten minutes, then add the fish, one tablespoonful of
salt, and one-half teaspoonful of white pepper. When the
potatoes are tender, add one quart of hot milk which has been
thickened with two ounces of butter and flour mixed together.
Do not break the fish by needless stirring. Split six butter
crackers, arrange in a tureen, and pour the fish chowder over
them.
Crab Bisque
For eight persons use eighteen large, hard-shell crabs, one
quart of chicken or veal stock, one quart of cream, one pint of
stale bread free of crust, two tablespoonfuls of butter, one of
flour, one small slice of carrot, one large slice of onion, two bay
leaves, one stalk of celery, one sprig of parsley, a bit of mace,
slight grating of nutmeg, one-fourth teaspoonful of white pep-
per, dash of cayenne, and three teaspoonfuls of salt. Put one-
half the meat of the crabs and all of the claws into a stewpan.
Add the spice, vegetables, herbs, and half the stock, and place
the pan where its contents will simmer gently for forty min-
utes. Ten minutes later put the bread and the remaining
stock into another stewpan, and set the pan where its contents
will simmer gently for thirty minutes. When the first mix-
ture has cooked for the proper period, strain it over that in the
second stewpan. Mix all these ingredients thoroughly and rub
through a fine sieve. Return to the fire and add butter and
flour which have been rubbed together. Cook five minutes
longer and add the cream heated in a double boiler, the re-
mainder of the crab meat, salt and pepper. Let the soup boil
up once and serve. If one choose, one tablespoonful of brandy
and three of Sherry may be added after the bisque is taken
from the stove.
Crab Bisque
Twelve large, hard-shell crabs boiled in salted water. The
female crab, known by the light red claws and large flap, is the
90 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
best. Drain, remove the large shell, but save the creamy part
that sticks to it. Put this with the coral that is in the crab,
pound fine with four ounces of butter and the yolks of four eggs,
and rub through a sieve. Pare off the flaps and gills, wash
off the sand, and pound what is left of the crab to a puree.
Chop a medium-sized onion, put it in a saucepan with four
ounces of butter, fry a minute or two, then add one pound of
steeped and pressed white of bread and the crab puree. Stir
the whole to a paste and gradually stir in one-half pint Catawba
wine and enough white broth to make it of the right consist-
ency. Add a bouquet and boil all for one-half hour. Rub
through a fine hair sieve, stir and boil again. Add the pre-
pared egg yolks, white pepper and a pinch of cayenne, one-half
pint boiling cream. Mix well without boiling and pour into a
tureen. If possible, serve with small boiled oyster crabs sepa-
rately on a plate.
Gumbo of Crabs
Take eight large, soft-shell crabs, clean them, and pare off
the small legs, flaps, and gills which are spongy and generally
sandy. Wash, drain well, and cut each crab in about eight
pieces. Put in a saucepan two ounces butter, two chopped
shallots, and two ounces of ham cut very small. Fry a little,
add one-half pint of white wine, five pints of white broth, salt,
pepper, one bunch of parsley tied up with one bay leaf, one sprig
of thyme, one clove of garlic, two cloves, one-half a green pep-
per without the seeds and cut small, and finally the crabs.
Cover, and boil slowly for one hour. Remove the parsley,
skim the fat, and add six tablespoonfuls of gumbo powder.
Drop the powder by the left hand quite a distance from the
liquid, all the time stirring with the right hand. This pre-
vents it from getting lumpy. Season highly, pour into a
soup tureen, and serve with plain boiled rice on a separate
dish.
SOUPS 91
Lobster Bisque
Cover two lobsters weighing about one and one-half pounds
each with boiling water. Add one tablespoonful of salt, one
head of celery, one small bouquet, half an onion, and six whole
peppers. Cook until the lobsters' claws can easily be pulled
apart — it will probably take twenty minutes. When cool
enough to handle, cut the lobster down the back and remove
the meat from the body and the claws. Save the coral and the
green fat. Put back all the tough part with the small claws
and shells, and cook them for twenty minutes in the same
liquor. The liquor must be considerably reduced. Dry the
coral, then rub it through a sieve. In a saucepan mix one table-
spoonful of butter with one ounce of flour. When it comes to
a boil, stir in one quart of hot milk. Let this come to a boil.
Then add one pint of the lobster broth. This must come to a
boil. Then season with salt and white pepper. Stir in the
sifted coral enough to give the liquid a bright pink color.
Place the green fat and the lobster meat cut in fine pieces in a
tureen, pour the hot mixture over them, and serve very hot.
Sudden Call Soup
While one quart of milk is heating in a double boiler, place
a tablespoon of butter in a stewpan till it boils, — but does not
brown, — add two tablespoons of flour, and when that is well
mixed in, one teaspoon each of salt and celery salt, and a salt-
spoon of white pepper. Add this hot thickening to the milk.
Take a small can of salmon, remove the bone and skim, mince
fine, and add to the heated and thickened milk. Boil up and
serve at once.
Pure'e of Asparagus
Have at hand two bunches of asparagus, three ounces of
flour, three ounces of butter, two scant quarts of white broth,
one quart of milk and seasoning. Break the asparagus tops off
92 MRS. SEELY'S cook BOOK
as far down as possible. Wash them and then boil in salted
water. Drain immediately. Melt three ounces of butter in a
stewpan, stir over a brisk fire for five minutes, add three ounces
of flour, mix thoroughly, and then add two quarts of white
broth and a quart of boiled milk, salt, white pepper, a dash of
grated nutmeg, and a half teaspoonful of sugar. Stir constantly
and let the mixture boil for ten minutes. Rub through a puree
sieve. Pour in saucepan and let it come to a boil. If too
thick, add more milk ; stir in a little butter. Serve with squares
of fried bread in separate dish.
Asparagus Soup
Boil one quart of asparagus cut in inch lengths in one quart
of water till tender. Rub through a colander and return it
to the water in which it was boiled. Heat one pint of milk
and pour it over one tablespoon of butter and one of flour
well beaten together. Boil and then add to the asparagus.
Pour in a tureen in which croutons have been placed, and
serve.
Puree of Barley
Boil for an hour barley with broth enough to cover it.
When it is quite softened, put the barley through a sieve, thin
with broth or stock, season with salt and pepper, and serve hot
with toast sippets or croutons.
For this chicken broth may be used, or a broth or stock of
mutton or beef.
Cream of Barley-
Boil slowly for four or five hours half a pint of barley, with
an onion in a quart and a half of chicken broth. Put through
a puree sieve, add a pint of cream or rich milk, boil up, set
back on the range, add the beaten yolks of four eggs thinned
with a little milk, and serve with croutons.
SOUPS 93
Barley Soup
Boil in water for half an hour half a pound of pearl barley.
Place this barley in two quarts of chicken, beef^ or mutton
broth, add half a pint of dice made from turnip, carrots, and
other vegetables, and boil gently for an hour or two. Season
with salt and pepper, and when you serve, add a few green peas
or a little sliced celery.
Cream of Pearl Barley
After washing half a pound of pearl barley most thoroughly,
set it to cook in a quart of veal stock, and let it cook slowly at
the back of the range for four or five hours. Divide the cooked
barley in half, put one-half through a puree sieve and add to
the other uncrushed half. Stir in a pint of boiling cream, sea-
son to taste, and serve with sippets or croutons.
Bean Soup
Boil one pint of small white beans in one quart of water
and one teaspoon of soda for five minutes. Pour off the boil-
ing water and put the beans through cold water till the skins
come off. Throw away the skins. Put the beans again in
fresh cold water and boil till very soft. Add two quarts of
rich milk, salt, pepper, and butter to taste ; afterward let the
soup boil up a couple of times before serving. The soft part of
the bean is of course broken up in the boiling and forms the
thickening and gives the flavor to the soup.
Black Bean Soup
' Take three pints of black beans and soak them over night.
Put them to boil early in the morning with two pounds of beef,
one grated carrot, two onions, and six quarts of water. Boil
until the beans are soft. Then put in twelve whole cloves.
Strain through a fine sieve, being careful to get all the pulp
through. Heat the mixture thoroughly, and add the juice of
94 MRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
two lemons, three hard-boiled eggs cut in slices, one lemon cut
in slices, a dash of red pepper, and Sherry wine to taste. Serve
very hot. After straining, should the soup be too thick, add a
little boiling water.
Puree of Lima Beans
Place one quart of Lima beans in a saucepan with salted
boiling water, one onion with a clove stuck in it, a small piece
of carrot, a bouquet, and one ounce of butter. Boil briskly
until soft, drain in a colander, and save the liquid. Remove
the onion, carrot, and bouquet, and pound the beans in a mor-
tar, then mix with the liquid and enough white broth to make
the desired quantity of soup. Rub through a puree sieve.
Stir it over the fire until it comes to a boil, skim, and season to
taste. Add two ounces of butter. When thoroughly mixed,
serve with small pieces of fried bread.
Beet Soup, or Barszcz
Make a strong bouillon by stewing marrow bones and soup
meats. Cook beets until they are delicate and tender, then
slice them to make circles, and cut the circles in little fingers.
This soup is often prescribed in Europe as extremely nour-
ishing and strengthening.
Cauliflower Soup
Have one quart of clear white broth, free from grease, and
one tablespoonful of finely chopped onion. Let them come to
a boil. Rub one cupful of boiled cauliflower through a sieve,
and add to the broth. Let one pint of milk come to a boil
and stir that in. Season with salt and white pepper. If not
thick and creamy, add a little flour blended with water. Then
add one tablespoonful of butter, and one cupful of cooked
cauliflower, in little branches. Stir in a tablespoonful of finely
chopped parsley and serve very hot.
SOUPS 95
Chestnut Soup
Boil two pounds of French chestnuts until they are tender.
Remove the shells and peel them. Set aside twelve whole
ones. The rest must be put into a mortar, pounded, and then
rubbed through a sieve. Mix this puree with enough con-
somme and cream — half of each ingredient — to make a rich
cream soup. Season with salt and a little white pepper. Stir
over the fire and scald thoroughly, but do not let it boil. Just
before serving, cut the twelve chestnuts up in small pieces —
each chestnut in five pieces — and stir in the soup. Serve
very hot.
Corn Soup
Cook in a double boiler with three cups of milk for fifteen
minutes the pulp cut and scraped from six ears of fresh corn.
Cook the cobs in one-half pint of water. Stir one cup of
cream sauce into the milk and pulp. Rub the pulp, etc.,
through the strainer, diluting it with the cob water. Heat
again and season with paprika. If too thick, add more milk.
Cucumber Soup
Take six good-sized cucumbers, peel them and remove all
the seeds, cut them in small pieces, and fry in melted butter
until tender. Then rub them through a puree sieve. Place in
a saucepan two quarts of white broth and the cucumber puree.
Heat thoroughly and add one-half pint cream mixed with the
yolks of four eggs. Stir over the fire until it becomes the
desired consistency. Do not let it boil.
Egg Soup
Fry three sliced onions in a little butter until they are a
light brown. Then pour in three pints of water and boil
without a cover until the onions are tender. Remove the
onions, which you may put through a sieve, and return to the
96 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
pot or leave out altogether. To the boiling liquid add a tea-
spoon of salt, a little pepper and sugar, and a teacup of milk,
into which you have beaten smooth a tablespoon of flour.
After the soup has thickened, take off the fire and add slowly,
and one at a time, the yolks of four eggs. Pour over dice of
bread fried, or merely plain toast, and send to the table hot.
Mushroom Soup
Have at hand two pounds of good-sized fresh mushrooms.
Select twelve of them and set aside. Chop the rest and fry in
melted butter. You can tell when they are done, for then the
butter will be oily. Stir in tAVO tablespoonfuls of flour. When
thoroughly mixed, add one pint of milk, and one pint of cream,
and one cup of consomme. Cook slowly for fifteen minutes.
Rub the soup through a colander, then strain through a cheese
cloth. Season with salt and white pepper. Heat thoroughly,
and serve.
Cream of Celery-
Cut twelve stalks of celery in small pieces, and boil with
half an onion and a blade of mace in three pints of water for
half an hour. Put through a puree sieve, add a pint of milk,
salt and pepper to taste, and a heaping tablespoon of butter
mixed with a tablespoon of flour. Bring the mixture to a boil,
add a cup of cream, and serve at once.
Cream of Cheese
Bring to a boiling-point two cups of milk, two cups of
white stock, and one onion. Take out the onion and thicken
the liquid with one tablespoon of butter and flour rubbed
together till smooth. Add salt and pepper to taste, stir in a
full half cup of grated cheese, add an Qgg beaten light, and
serve at once. A small pinch of soda in the milk before the
cheese is added may prevent any separation,
SOUPS 97
Cream of Corn
Add a quart and a half of water to each quart of corn, cut
fresh from the cob, or if that cannot be had, to each quart of
canned corn. Boil until the kernels are tender and then add
two ounces of butter which has been beaten into one tablespoon
of flour. Add fifteen or twenty more minutes to the boiling,
season to taste, stir in a cup of cream, either plain or whipped,
as preferred, and serve with floating croutons.
Cream of Onion
Peel and slice a dozen small white onions and fry them a
light brown in a tablespoon of butter. Have ready in a double
boiler a pint of water, a quart of milk, a saltspoon of salt and
white pepper, a pinch of mace, and a double pinch of sugar. To
this add the fried onions, cook slowly half an hour, and strain
through a puree sieve. Add the yolks of three well-beaten eggs
and a cupful of cream and serve at once.
Potato Cream Soup
Peel and boil six large potatoes. Mash them through a
colander, add one quart of milk and one pint of cream, salt and
white pepper to taste, and a piece of butter the size of an egg.
Strain through a fine sieve. Pour into the tureen and sprinkle
with very fine chopped parsley. Slice bread about half an inch
thick, cut in strips about half an inch wide and three inches
long. Arrange in frying basket, plunge in hot fat, and fry until
light brown. Drain on brown paper, arrange on separate dish,
and serve with the above.
Cream of Rice
Wash and parboil one pound of rice. Drain and cook
thoroughly with two quarts of chicken or veal broth, then rub
it through a puree sieve. Dilute with more broth, if necessary,
98 MRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
until it is the desired consistency. Stir over the fire until it
comes to a boil, skim, and season to taste. Just before serving,
stir in one pint of boiling cream and two ounces of butter.
Mix thoroughly. Add one pint of small green asparagus tops
and serve.
Cream of Spinach
' Wash and boil half a peck of spinach in salted water. Drain
and chop very fine. Put in a stewpan with two ounces of butter,
salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg. Stir over the fire until
the moisture is almost evaporated, stir in one ounce and a half
of flour and three pints of boiled milk. When the mixture has
boiled for a minute, remove from the fire, rub it twice through
a fine sieve, and return to the pan. Stir and heat it well without
boiling it. Add a little more butter and half a cup of cream.
Serve with fried bread crumbs.
Oatmeal Soup
Boil together for an hour and a half enough oatmeal to make
the water slightly thick or viscid. Add a lump of butter,
enough sugar to sweeten slightly, a little wine, and drop in a bit
of lemon peel. A good pinch of salt also should not be for-
gotten. After the boiling strain through a sieve, boil up again,
add cream and the beaten yolks of eggs to your taste, and serve
with toast sippets.
Split Pea Soup
"^ In buying dried or split peas, be sure that they are not old
and worm-eaten. Wash a pint of them clean and soak them
over night in plenty of cold water. Put them on to boil with
five pints of cold water and boil them till tender. Add, when
the peas are tender, a couple of onions, or more if you wish, a
couple of fine carrots grated, and a turnip or two sliced, if
your taste so directs. These vegetables should be browned
in butter before going to the peas. Add also pepper and salt
SOUPS 99
to taste. Stew all gently together till the vegetables will go
through a sieve. After straining in this way put the soup
back to boil and serve after a few minutes' boiling with half
a dozen croutons floating in each plate. The hock of a ham
or a piece of pork may be cooked with the peas for flavoring.
Saratoga Soup
Warm and strain one can of tomatoes, add half a cup of raw
sago. Boil until the sago is clear. Add one pint of consomme.
Salt and pepper to taste. If desired, a little Worcestershire may
be added.
Tomato Soup
Heat and strain one can of tomatoes and add one quart of
stock. Stir in one teaspoonful of corn-starch which has been
blended in a little water. Stir constantly over the fire until
just ready to boil. Season with salt, a little Worcestershire,
and also a little mushroom catsup.
Tomato Cream Soup
Melt one good-sized lump of butter, stir in two tablespoon-
fuls of flour. When mixed, add one pint of milk and one pint
of cream. Let it boil. Scald one can of tomatoes, strain, and
add to the soup a little at a time so it will not curdle the milk
and cream. Add a very small pinch of sugar, season to taste.
Strain through a wet cheese-cloth and serve very hot.
Tomato Soup
Empty one quart jar of tomatoes into an agate saucepan
and add one pint of cold water. Stand the mixture over a
quick fire. Next, mix together in another saucepan one heap-
ing tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour.
When the tomatoes reach the boiling heat, pour them over the
flour and butter in the other saucepan, stirring constantly to
100 MBS. SEELT'S cook BOOK
keep it from lumping. Set the saucepan on the stove and
season the mixture with a little grated onion, one heaping tea-
spoonful of salt, and a little black pepper. Let the soup boil
veri/ slowly for half an hour. Then press it through a puree
sieve. Stand it back on the fire, add one teaspoonful of soda,
and after a minute add one pint of rich cream. Let it boil one
minute and then serve.
Tomato Soup Maigre
Fry to a good brown a sliced onion, — this in the bottom of
a soup pot, — and over it pour a can of tomatoes, which have
been well chopped, and two cups of boiling water. When the
tomatoes are cooked tender, rub them through a colander, put
the soup in the kettle, add a cup of boiled rice, thicken with a
tablespoon of butter, rubbed smooth with the same amount of
flour, boil up, and serve.
Sorrel Soup
Make a good strong bouillon, using marrow bones and bone
meat preferably. Having carefully washed the sorrel leaves,
chop them very fine, and cook till tender in a little of the
bouillon. Add to them rich cream in the proportion of a
tablespoon or two for each plate, bring to a boil, pour into the
bouillon, and serve.
Sometimes hard-boiled eggs are served with this soup. The
eggs are cut in halves, fried in butter, and two halves laid in
each soup plate.
CHAPTER V
FISH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TERRAPIN
Court Bouillon for all Sorts of Fresh Water Fish
One pint of water, one quart of white wine, one tablespoon-
ful of butter, a bunch of parsley, a few young onions, one clove
of garlic, a bunch of thyme, one bay leaf, one carrot, and a
blade of mace. Boil the fish in this bouillon, which will do
for use several times. Any kind of fish, such as salmon, trout,
pompano, sheepshead, carp, may be boiled in this way. Lob-
ster boiled in court bouillon is very fine.
Fish Forcemeat
Take one pound of raw fish, — halibut, cod, pompano.
Mortar it well and put it through a puree sieve. Weigh it ;
there should be four ounces, good weight. Then add the beaten
white of one egg. Set in a cool place. Melt one tablespoon-
ful of butter with one of flour. When they come to a boil,
add one cup milk, the yolk of one egg^ one tablespoonful
cream. Season to taste. Cook until it thickens and is smooth,
remove, and when cold add to your fish.
Fish Forcemeat
Take two ounces of fish free from skin, put in a mortar
with two ounces of fresh butter, one ounce of bread crumbs,
the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, and a little shallot, grated
lemon peel, and minced parsley. Pound together till quite
smooth, mix with salt, pepper, and the yolk and white of an
egg, and it is ready for use.
101
102 MRS. seelt's cook book
Veal Forcemeat for Fish
Soak four ounces of stale bread in water, squeeze it dry,
and mix with four ounces of finely chopped cooked veal and
two ounces of finely chopped salt pork and one tablespoonful
of butter. Pound all in a mortar, then rub through a puree
sieve, and add the following : the juice of half a lemon, half
a teaspoonful of powdered thyme, half a teaspoonful of sweet
marjoram, a little ground mace, a little salt and white pepper,
and a well-beaten egg. This may be made in larger or smaller
quantities, according to the size and number of the fish to be
stuffed.
Baked Bass
Wash and clean a fresh bass for baking, leaving on the
head. Stuff the fish with the following mixture : two and
one-half cups of fine bread crumbs, one cup of butter, the rind
of a quarter of a lemon chopped very fine, two or three sprigs
of parsley chopped fine, and a little sweet marjoram. Season
to taste with salt and white pepper. Mix two well-beaten
eggs with a little water, and add to the mixture. AVhen the
fish is well stuffed, sew up the opening. Score it on each side,
and in the spaces place very thin slices of salt pork. Place it
in a pan with a little stock, and bake in a moderate oven.
Baste it frequently with the stock and a little seasoning.
When thoroughly cooked, carefully place it on a hot dish.
To the gravy which is left in the pan, add a little tomato
sauce. Stir on the top of the range until it comes to a boil.
Strain and serve in a separate dish. Garnish the fish plate with
parsley and thin slices of lemon.
Palmettes of Striped Bass
Cut out six heart-shaped fillets from the thickest part of the
bass. Season with pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon.
FISH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TERRAPIN 103
Put under a press for one-half hour. Cook in clarified butter
for ten minutes until a delicate brown. Make a forcemeat (the
same as for fillet of pompano). Color the forcemeat pink and
green, also have some white. Pour in three pastry bags. On
the outside of each palmette put a pink border, on the inside
all white with a small heart shape of green on the top. Set
them away to get chilled. Have six pieces of heart-shaped oiled
paper. Wrap up each palmette in one. Place them in a tin
pan, set the pan over another which is half filled with water.
Cook in the oven until the forcemeat is done, or from twenty
to twenty-five minutes. Serve on corn-starch croustade and
with Hollandaise sauce.
Corn-starch Croustade
Place one pint of milk in a saucepan over the fire, and when
it boils add two heaping tablespoons of corn-starch, which has
been dissolved in a little cold water, and one-half teaspoonful
salt. When the mixture has cooked five minutes, add the white
of an egg. Wet a mould about three-fourths or one inch deep
of the desired shape and pour in the mixture. While hot it
may be colored pink or green. Set away to cool.
Baked Blueflsh
Select a nice large bluefish, clean, and prepare it for baking.
Wash it in salted water, and after drying it thoroughly, stuff
it with veal forcemeat for fish, or else with bread forcemeat, to
which a few capers have been added. Sew up the opening and
rub the fish all over with salt. Then, having put small pieces
of butter over it, place it in a large pan with enough water to
cover the bottom, and bake in a hot oven for forty-five or fifty
minutes. After it begins to bake, sprinkle it with a little salt
and pepper. Baste it often with the liquid in the pan and a
little melted butter. When it is cooked and a nice color, remove
104 MES.
carefully to a hot plate. Do not break it. Serve with a brown
sauce, or any desired sauce poured round the fish as a garnish,
or serve it in a separate dish.
Slices of Cod a la Seville
Wash and dry one-half pound of Carolina rice, fry it in hot
olive oil, drain on a sieve, and then put it in a stewpan with
some pieces of fresh cod cut in pieces about four inches square,
and which have been fried in olive oil and drained. Cut a
Spanish onion in very thin slices, and also fry the slices in oil.
Mix them with six ripe tomatoes from which the skins and seeds
have been removed. Cook the onion and tomato slowly for five
minutes, then pour it over the fish and rice. Season with a
little cayenne, salt, and lemon juice. Moisten with one pint of
white broth, place a buttered paper on top, cover with the lid
of the pan, and place in the oven to bake. In about half an
hour the fish and rice will be done. Remove the pieces of fish
and with a wooden spoon stir the rice over the fire in order to
mix it with the seasoning. Arrange the rice on a dish and
place the pieces of codfish on it. Garnish with tomato sauce
or mussel sauce.
Shredded Cod baked with Cream Sauce
Boil four or five pounds of fresh cod. When cooked, drain
and shred in fine pieces and set away to cool. Make the fol-
lowing sauce for a five-pound piece of fish. Boil one quart of
milk with one onion and a little finely chopped parsley. Set it
aside. Mix one cup of butter with enough flour to absorb it.
Add this to the milk and boil until it is the consistency of
custard. Season with a dash of cayenne and salt to taste. Put
a layer of shredded fish in a baking dish, cover with a layer of
sauce, then a layer of fish, and so on until the dish is filled.
Have the last layer of cream. Cover with fine bread crumbs.
FISR, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS^ TERRAPIN 105
Sprinkle with pieces of butter and bake in the oven until the
top is a nice brown. Small boiled potato balls covered with
cream sauce should be served with this.
Baked Cod
Select a fresh cod, cut off the head and fins, draw, wash, and
split it down the belly. Remove the bone from the thick part
only, and make small lengthwise incisions in the skin in order
to prevent the fish from curling while it is cooking. Put it to
soak for three hours in a dressing made as follows : salt, white
pepper, a little Worcestershire sauce, and some sweet oil. Drain
and place in a pan. Baste it with melted butter and sprinkle
with fine bread crumbs. Moisten with two glasses of white
wine and one pint of oyster liquor. Bake in a slow oven and
then cover with a buttered paper and bake a light brown in a
moderate oven. Drain and thicken the liquid with a little flour
kneaded with butter, add some lemon juice and finely chopped
parsley. Pour this round the fish and serve.
Baked Cod's Head
Wash and thoroughly clean a cod's head. Stuff the gills
with veal forcemeat. Place the head in a pan, season with salt,
white pepper, and a little chopped parsley. Mix one pint of
stock, a scant pint of Sherry wine, and a little tomato catsup,
and pour into the pan. Cover the fish with buttered paper and
bake in a moderate oven. The fish must be well basted while
it is cooking. When the head is nearly cooked, sprinkle it with
fine bread crumbs. The average sized head should bake in one
hour and a quarter. Mix the liquor in the pan with two gills
of brown sauce, strain it, and add two ounces of butter and a
little lemon juice. Boil for four minutes and then pour over
the fish or serve in separate dish.
106 MRS. seely's cook book
Codfish a la Mode
Take one teacup of salt codfish picked up fine, two teacups
of mashed potatoes, one pint of cream or milk. Mix them well
together and then add two eggs well beaten. Stir them in
thoroughly and then add a half cup of butter, and salt and
pepper to taste. Put in a baking dish and bake twenty or
thirty minutes.
Colonial Codfish Pie, with Crust
Line a deep baking dish with a biscuit crust. To make the
crust, sift together four cups of flour, one heaping teaspoon of
soda, and two teaspoons of cream of tartar (or in place of these
three heaping teaspoons of baking powder), and one teaspoon of
salt. In this rub one-half a cup of shortening and about a pint
of milk, that is, enough to make a medium soft dough. In rolling
out the upper crust spread butter on twice and fold and roll out.
Take a pint of picked-up salt codfish, cover it with boiling
water, let it stand two minutes and drain. Pour on more water
and, after it has stood, drain dry. Upon the crust of your bak-
ing dish put a layer of this codfish, sprinkle it with bread
crumbs, pepper (a little salt if you find the fish fresh), small
pieces of butter, and some cream sauce (made by thickening one
pint of boiling milk with two teaspoons of flour and seasoning
with salt and pepper). Break over the fish bread crumbs and
seasoning, three or four eggs, carefully preserving the yolks.
Repeat these layers, — codfish, bread crumbs, cream sauce, and
eggs, — put on the top crust, cut a few holes in the centre to let
out the steam, and bake till the crust is a delicate brown.
Codfish Balls
Trim and soak a piece of salt codfish in cold water for six
or seven hours, and during that time change the water two or
three times. Shred it. Should it be too salt after shredding,
FISH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TERRAPIN 107
freshen it by frequent changes of cold water. There should be
one quart bowl of the shredded fish. Cover it with water and let
it simmer gently until tender. It will not take very long.
Should you boil it too much, you might harden it. Have ready
six good-sized, fresh-boiled potatoes, and mash them while hot.
Have the fish drained, pounded, and rubbed through a sieve,
and mix with the potatoes and three well-beaten eggs. Season
to taste with salt — if necessary — and white pepper, also a
small lump of butter. Drop by the tablespoonful into a pan of
boiling hot lard and fry until a delicate brown. Drain on
brown paper and serve very hot.
Maigre Fish Pie
Have ready plenty of salt codfish boiled and free from bones
and skin. Have ready also four hard-boiled eggs and four
onions. Peal and slice the eggs and onions very thin. Line the
bottom of a deep pie dish with fish forcemeat or a layer of boiled
potatoes sliced thin. On this put a layer of onions, then a
layer of fish, then of eggs, and so on till the dish is full. Season
each layer with a little pepper, and pour over the layers a gill
of water containing a teaspoon of made mustard, a teaspoon of
the essence of anchovy, and a little mushroom catsup. Break
in small bits over the top an ounce of fresh butter. Cover all
with a puff paste and bake one hour. For this dish fresh fish
may be used by adding a little salt.
Salt Mackerel
Soak salt mackerel about forty-eight hours, changing the
water once, then put it in a pan, cover with cream or the richest
milk. Put in the oven and cook until cream is brown.
Pompano Fillets a la Duchesse
Cut fillets — as many as you wish — from a nice pompano.
Put them on a platter and season with half a teaspoon of salt,
108 MBS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
one-fourth a teaspoon of pepper, and the juice of half an onion.
Rub the fish well with the pepper and salt. Squeeze the onion
juice over the fillets through a fine cloth, and let them stand
one hour. Wipe dry. Put some fish forcemeat in a tube, and
in fanciful forms press it over the fillets. Put a star cut from
a truffle on top of each. Wrap each in piece of oiled paper.
Place them in a tin pan, set the pan over another which is
half filled with water. Bake in the oven until the forcemeat
is done, or from twenty to twenty-five minutes. Serve with
duchesse sauce.
Stuffed Pompano with Lobster
Select a fresh pompano, clean and wash it, and having re-
moved the head and tail, reserve them for future use. Split
the fish as for broiling and remove the bone. Boil a small
lobster weighing about one and a half pounds. When cool
remove the meat, saving the coral. Pound the meat in a mor-
tar and rub it through a puree sieve. Mix it with a small cup
of cream sauce, two well-beaten eggs, one tablespoonful of
flour. Season with salt, white pepper, and if desired a dash
of nutmeg. Lastly, stir in a small cup of cream and a table-
spoonful of Sherry. Mix thoroughly. Lay the split pompano
in a pan, skin side down, and on each half smoothly spread the
lobster forcemeat. Garnish the fish with truffles cut in fancy
shapes, finely chopped truffles, hard-boiled eggs, — the whites
and yolks chopped separately, — and the coral of the lobster
cut in strips. Pour a little salted water in the pan, cover the
fish with buttered paper, and steam in hot oven for half an
hour. When done, place on a hot dish on a bed of green
celery cut in strips like grass. Decorate the head and tail
and replace on fish. Put a few shrimps around the dish, on the
celery, and serve with a shrimp sauce. Bass may be served in
this way. The fish, when prettily garnished, is very pleasing
at serving time.
FISH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TERRAPIN 109
Boiled Red Snapper
Clean and scale a fresh red snapper which will weigh about
five or six pounds. Wash it in cold water. Have as much
water in the kettle as will cover your fish. Add vinegar, salt,
and lemon juice. To four quarts of water add one and a half
tablespoons of lemon juice, two tablespoons of salt, and one
tablespoon of vinegar. When the water comes to a boil, push
it to the back of the range. Add a pint of cold water, then
put your fish in and move the kettle to the front. Just as
soon as the water comes to a boil, place the kettle where the
contents will just bubble. Let it cook in this way for half an
hour. When cooked, drain thoroughly and serve with Hollan-
daise or any sauce suitable for the fish.
Baked Red Snapper, with Forcemeat
Select a red snapper weighing about five pounds. Cut off
the fins, scale it, and prepare it for baking. Stuff it with the
following mixture : One pint of medium-sized oysters, chopped
very fine, one-half cup of powdered cracker crumbs, one gener-
ous tablespoonful of butter, one-quarter of a teaspoonful of
white pepper, one-half teaspoonful of onion juice, one teaspoon-
ful of salt, and one teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley. Mix
together thoroughly. Rub the fish inside and out with one
tablespoonful of salt. When it is stuffed, sew up the opening
and place it on a buttered sheet of tin. Place the tin in a pan
with about a pint of boiling water and bake in hot oven for
about one hour.
Have the following sauce prepared to baste the fish with :
Heat two tablespoon fuls of butter, then add two tablespoonfuls
of flour. Stir until it is brown. Then gradually add one pint
of cold water. Let this boil for five minutes and keep it hot.
Pour about one-quarter of this sauce over the fish. Dredge
it with salt, pepper, and a little flour. Repeat this in ten
FISH, OYSTEBS, LOBSTERS, TERBAPIN 111
two ounces of butter. Let it come to a boil, then cover and
simmer for one-half hour. Drain the fish and remove the
bunch of parsley. Thicken the liquid with one ounce of flour
which has been cooked in butter. Boil ten minutes, then mix
with the yolks of four eggs and some chopped parsley. Spread
a thin layer of thick mashed potatoes in an oval baking dish,
well buttered. Remove the bone and skin from the steaks and
place them one overlapping the other on the potatoes. Fill
with more potatoes, smooth nicely, and pour the sauce over all.
Sprinkle with bread crumbs and little pieces of butter over
the top. Bake until a light brown, in a moderate oven, about
twenty minutes. Serve in the baking dish.
Fillets of Salmon a la Venitienne
Take the fillets from a four-pound tail-piece of salmon.
Remove the skin and cut each one in four long pieces. Flatten
and trim evenly. Fasten fine strips of larding pork on one
side, season with salt, white pepper, and a little lemon juice,
and place the larded side up in a buttered pan. Moisten with
half a pint of white wine, and cover with a sheet of buttered
paper with a small hole in the centre. The steam must have
vent, else the surface will not glaze. Cook in the oven about
forty minutes, basting frequently with the liquid in order to
have the glaze a nice color. Drain and dish the fillets in a
circle with alternate heart-shaped slices of bread fried in but-
ter. Thicken two ladlefuls of broth with one ounce of flour
kneaded in butter. Stir and boil a few minutes. Add two
ounces of butter, a little lemon juice, and chopped parsley.
Mix well and pour in centre of dish.
Salmon Mousse a la Martinet
Have a slice of raw salmon, scrape so it will be free from
sinews, put it in a mortar and pound to a pulp, and put through
a fine puree sieve. Then weigh it. There should be eight
112 MBS. seely's cook book
ounces, good weight. Place in a bowl and gradually add the
beaten white of two eggs, stirring constantly with a wooden
pestle. Make a sauce of the following : One tablespoonful
melted butter, one tablespoonful flour. Let them come to a
boil. Add one cupful milk, two tablespoonfuls of mushroom
liquor, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of
white pepper, a pinch of cayenne, and juice of one onion.
Cook all together five minutes, add the yolks of three eggs and
two tablespoons of cream. Do not let the sauce boil after the
yolks have been added. When the sauce commences to thicken,
remove and set away to cool. When cold, add it to the fish.
Rub all well together and put on ice for half an hour. Then
add half a pint of whipped cream. Butter your mould, decorate
it with truffles. Put on ice to harden, so the decoration will
be firm on mould. Fill the mould with fish, giving it a few
knocks on the table to settle the forcemeat. Thirty minutes
before serving put your mould in a pan, pour hot water halfway
to mould, put a buttered paper on top, and poach in a moderate
oven until firm to the touch. When ready to serve, dip your
mould in cold water, lay the dish you are going to serve it in
on top of mould. Turn very gently and lift off the mould.
Serve with Martinot sauce in centre or in sauce-boat.
Baked Salmon Trout
Carefully clean, wash, and thoroughly dry a fresh salmon
trout. Spread it full length, head and tail included, in a bak-
ing pan, with just enough water to keep it from scorching. If
a very large one, score the backbone, but be careful not to mar
the sides. Bake very slowly in a moderate oven, basting often
with butter and water. When it is done, remove to a hot dish.
Have ready in a saucepan a cup of cream diluted with a few
spoonfuls of hot water, and mix carefully with two tablespoons
of melted butter and a little finely chopped parsley. Heat this
in a pan with boiling water underneath it. Add the gravy
FISH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TERRAPIN 113
from the pan the fish was cooked in. Boil up once to thicken.
Pour this sauce around the trout or serve in a separate dish.
Garnish the fish with sprigs of parsley. The fish should have
almost the same colored spots as when uncooked. If necessary,
season with a little salt.
Broiled Shad a I'Abbe with Herb Sauce
Get one large roe shad and an extra shad roe. Prepare the
fish for broiling, taking the roe and keeping it with the other
until wanted. Remove the bone of the fish, clean nicely, wash
and wipe dry. Make small incisions on both sides of the fish
and soak it for one hour in a dish with salt, pepper, olive
oil, and lemon juice. See that it soaks on both sides. Drain,
sprinkle with bread crumbs, and broil slowly for one-half hour.
See that your broiler is well greased. Make eight pieces out
of your roes and also have eight large oysters. Dip them in
beaten Qgg and roll in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat until a
nice brown. Dish up the shad, surround with roes and oysters,
and serve with an herb sauce.
Herb Sauce
Place two chopped shallots in a saucepan with a little but-
ter, salt, white pepper, grated nutmeg, and a glass of white
wine. Boil until it is reduced one-half. Add half a pint of
veloute sauce and boil a minute. Thicken with three Qgg
yolks and as much water as you have Qgg yolks, mix water
and yolks together, and stir without boiling. Then add care-
fully four ounces of butter in small bits, stirring all the while.
Finish with chopped parsley and lemon juice.
Planked Shad
Have a hardwood board about one inch and a half thick.
Split the shad as for broiling, tack it on the board, skin side
down, and roast before the fire until done. Every once in a
114 MBS. SEELY'S cook BOOK
while rub it with a little butter. Before placing the shad on
the board, see that the board is well seasoned and heated, else
the fish will have the flavor of the wood. When cooked, place
it on a hot dish, season with salt and pepper, cover with small
bits of butter, and serve with lemon cut in quarters.
Baked Shad Roe
Pare the roes of four large shad, sprinkle a baking dish with
chopped onion, parsley, and mushrooms. Add the roes, strew
over them more onion, etc., with salt, pepper, a little nutmeg,
and small bits of butter. Moisten with a little white broth and
two glasses of white wine. Let all cook and boil in the oven,
basting occasionally, for twenty minutes. Drain and thicken
the liquid with one tablespoonful of flour kneaded in butter.
Pour this over the roes, sprinkle with fine bread crumbs, put
small bits of butter on top, and bake in brisk oven ten minutes
longer. Press lemon juice over and serve in the baking dish.
The above is enough for eight persons.
Shad Roe Cromeskies
Wash thoroughly in cold water the roe of a shad and
remove the skin hanging to it. Wipe it well and cut it in
pieces of a size to wrajD well in thin slices of bacon. Rub the
pieces of shad with salt and pepper. Lay them in the slices of
bacon, wrap the bacon round, and tie with fine twdne. Have
care that the bacon is not too thick. Drop each piece in deep
hot fat and fry a light brown. Garnish with parsley and serve
with a piquant sauce.
Roast Shad with Sauce
Have a large roe shad, scale, draw by the gills, cleanse
nicely, and wipe dry. Make small crosswise incisions on both
sides. Put the fish on a dish to soak for one hour w^ith salt,
pepper, olive oil, lemon juice, chopped parsley, chives, and
FISH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TERRAPIN 115
thyme. Be sure to turn and press it often so it will {ibsorb the
seasoning. Put on the spit or on a long skewer, if to roast in the
oven, wrap in double oiled paper, making it secure by pressing
down a shorter skewer along each side and tying at each end.
Then roast before the fire, or in a moderate oven for forty min-
utes. Remove the paper, brown a nice color. Place on dish,
pour sauce round it, and serve.
Shad Sauce
Four shallots, chopped very fine. Put them in a saucepan
with two ounces butter and four tablespoonfuls of white wine
vinegar. Let it boil down to half the original quantity, then
add one pint veloute sauce. Boil a little longer, add finely
chopped parsley, tarragon, and about four ounces of butter in
small bits. Mix thoroughly.
Boiled Brook Trout (hot)
Scale and prepare four large trout. Pour over them two
breakfast cups of boiling vinegar, which will turn the meat
blue, two breakfast cups of white wine, and enough water to
cover them. Add one onion with three cloves stuck in it, one
carrot, half a bunch of celery, four or five bay leaves, one small
bunch of parsley, one teaspoonful of peppercorns, and salt
to suit the taste. Boil all together for fifteen minutes in a
covered saucepan. When done remove the fish, drain them,
place them on a folded napkin spread on a dish. Garnish
with parsley. Serve with any fish sauce, or with oil or vinegar.
Boiled Brook Trout (cold)
Clean four or more small trout. Place them in a saucepan
with enough claret to cover them. Add a slice of lemon, two
whole cloves, four whole peppers, a little bit of mace, and a
heaping saltspoon of salt. Let it cook and simmer very slowly
116 MRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
for three-quarters of an hour. Remove from the fire, and
when cold take out the fish. Place them in a dish and pour
the boiled wine over them. Serve at once.
Broiled Trout
Scale and clean a trout. Wash and dry it well. Gash it
across the back, and in the openings put some butter which has
been seasoned with finely chopped chives and parsley, a little
lemon juice, and thyme. Put the trout in a dish, season with
a little salt and pepper and olive oil. Let it soak for about
half an hour. Remove from the dish. Sprinkle with bread
crumbs mixed with a few chopped herbs and then arrange on
a well-greased gridiron. Broil over a clear fire for fifteen
minutes or so until it is done. Turn the gridiron often and
be sure not to burn the fish. Place on a hot dish and serve
with any desired sauce in a separate dish.
Fried Trout, Mountain Style
Clean and wash a trout weighing a quarter or half a pound.
Dry it thoroughly. Cut some salt pork in small pieces and
place in a frying pan. When the fat is tried out, remove the
pork. Rub the inside of the fish with a little salt. When
the pork fat is very hot, place the fish in the pan. Turn it
two or three times. Serve on a very hot dish. If you have
a little fresh butter, a little may be put on the fish, but avoid
sauces and condiments.
Baked Brook Trout, with Forcemeat
Select trout weighing a pound or more. Open them just
enough to clean them properly, removing the gills and leaving
the heads on. Wash and dry them thoroughly, and fill the
cavities with the following forcemeat : Half a pint of bread
crumbs soaked in a little milk, squeezed dry, and mixed with
two ounces of good butter, one saltspoon of salt, one-half a
FISH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TERRAPIN 117
saltspoon of white pepper, juice of quarter of a lemon, a little
sprig of thyme, and the yoke of one raw egg. Mix thoroughly.
Sew up the openings. Place the fish in a pan ; on top of each
one place small bits of butter which have previously been
rolled in flour. Place in the oven with the backs toward the
hottest part. They should cook in twenty or thirty minutes.
Sometimes it takes longer, for it depends upon the heat of the
oven.
Fillets of Sole a la Venitienne
Take the fillets of four soles, trim and place one-half of
them in a saucepan with some clarified butter, a little lemon
juice, white pepper, and salt. Let them simmer slowly for ten
minutes. Simmer the other fillets without trimming them in
the same manner. When they are done, drain them and set away
to cool. Cut the untrimmed fillets into small dice. Mix them
with some thick Allemande sauce, two ounces of grated Parme-
san cheese, white pepper and salt to taste, and a dash of grated
nutmeg. Spread this preparation about one-sixth of an inch
thick on an earthen dish, and when it has become firm cut it
into pieces about the size and shape of the fillets. Roll them
in fine bread crumbs, then in beaten egg, and then again in
bread crumbs. Just before serving warm the fillets, fry the
croquettes in hot lard, drain both on a piece of brown paper.
Arrange them in a close circle, placing alternately the cro-
quettes and the fillets. Fill the centre with small fish force-
meat balls, fried in hot lard. Pour some Venitienne sauce in
the centre and on the fillets and serve.
Sole Normande, with Sauce
Butter a tin very quickly. Boil some onions in water to
remove the strong flavor, then slice them very thin and lay
them on the butter. Place the sole on them. Put over it
salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste, also some chopped parsley.
118 MRS. seely's cook book
Add the juice of one lemon and as much white wine as will
cover it. Place them in a slow oven for thirty minutes. Baste
the sole with its own liquor very often, and add more butter if
required. Serve with fried bread sippets and a sauce made
from the gravy in which the fish has been cooked.
How to make the Sauce
Melt a tablespoonful of butter in saucepan and add a table-
spoonful of flour. Strain the gravy from the pan in which the
fish has been cooked. Add a full cup of it to the butter and
flour. Let it come to a boil, then cook five minutes. Season
to taste, add one-half cup of rich cream. Serve ver^ hot in
sauce-boat.
Fillet of Sole
Take two soles, divide them from the backbone, remove the
heads, fins, and tails. Sprinkle the inside with pepper, salt,
and the juice of half a lemon. Roll in the shape of a cork-
screw, then roll them in egg^ then fresh bread crumbs, then
in egg^ and bread crumbs again. Fry in hot fat and serve on
a napkin. Garnish with lemon baskets filled with Tartare
sauce and sprigs of parsley.
Fillet of Sole
Cut off the head and tail of a large flounder and set away
for future use. Cut off the fillets from the fish and bake them
in the oven for ten minutes and set them away to cool. Then
make a puree of mushrooms in the following way : Peel and
chop fine one pound of mushrooms, melt one ounce of butter, add
one ounce of flour, and let them come to a boil. Then stir in
one-half cup consomme, half a cup of cream, and the mushrooms,
and boil for five minutes. Then set the mixture away to cool.
Make a forcemeat of halibut or any kind of fish desired. Now
lay the fish fillets on a platter, cover each one with the mush-
FISH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TERRAPIN 119
room puree, and then with tlie forcemeat. Put the head and
tail in place. Set the platter in a pan of hot water and bake
in a moderate oven for ten minutes. Remove carefully to a
platter, garnish with parsley, and serve with Hollandaise sauce.
Chartreuse of Fish a la Hauraise
Take some nice fillets of sole, put them on a buttered baking
tin. Season them with salt, pepj^er, and a little lemon juice.
Cover them with a thick buttered paper and cook them in a
moderate oven for six or eight minutes. Then take up the
fillets and put them to press until cold. Cut them out with
a plain round cutter, ornament half of them with coral
(lobster's), and the other half with tarragon and parsley and
truffle. Set the garnish with a little liquid aspic jelly. Line
the Chartreuse mould with aspic jelly and arrange the rounds
of sole all over the mould. Set this with aspic, just enough to
make the garnish firm, and in the centre place the following
mixture : —
Take about half a pint of picked shrimps or lobsters, cut
in dice shapes, two peeled tomatoes, four artichoke bottoms
(cooked and cold), and twelve small raw oysters. Add season-
ing and red pepper and trimmings of sole. Mix all with half
pint of liquid aspic jelly and two large tablespoonfuls of thick
Mayonnaise sauce. Stir all together on ice till it begins to set,
then pour into the mould as directed. Let it stand an hour or
more, turn out on stand, and garnish with jelly.
Baked Sardines
Remove the skin from twelve large sardines. Put them on "^
a dish and heat them through. Put the oil from the sardines
in a saucepan, and Avhen it comes to a boil, stir in one cupful
of water, then add one teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce,
salt and pepper to taste. Remove from the fire, and stir in
120 MES. SEELY\S COOK BOOK
the beaten yolk of one egg, one teaspoonful of vinegar, and one
of mustard. Serve the lish very hot, with this sauce poured
over them or in a separate dish.
Broiled Smelts
Split and clean as many smelts as are required. Select large
ones. Remove tlie backbone, rub each one with olive oil, and
season with a little salt and pepper. Grease the broiler, ar-
range the smelts on it, and broil on each side for two or three
minutes. Serve with a Bearnaise sauce.
Fried Smelts a la Parisienne
Wash the smelts thoroughly, cut down the back, and take the
bone out a little below the head and just above the tail. Clean
well and cut away the fins and gills. Dry well and flour them.
Roll them up by putting their tails in their mouths and fasten-
ing them with a little wooden skewer. Set away in the ice-
box. Have your oil or fat very hot. Fry, a few at a time,
until a nice brown. Keep in warm place until all are fried,
then let your oil get very hot. Put all in your frying basket,
plunge into your hot fat. They will swell up and be a beauti-
ful brown and crisp. Boil the number of eggs required, allow-
ing one-half for each person. Take out the yolks and put the
whites in cold water. Make a Tartare sauce. When ready to
serve, fill each half egg with Tartare sauce and put round the
fish. Put a bunch of parsley between each egg. Serve the
fish very hot.
Baked Smelts
Line a well-buttered flat baking dish with forcemeat and
arrange the smelts on it. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley
and mushrooms, season with salt, pepper, and a little grated
nutmeg. Cover with veloute sauce, which has one glass of
white wine mixed with it. Then sprinkle with bread crumbs
FISH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TERRAPIN 121
and pieces of butter, and bake in hot oven for twenty minutes.
When cooked sprinkle with the juice of a lemon and serve in
the baking dish.
Stuffed Smelts
Remove the fins from two dozen large smelts. Clean them
without splitting them and stuff with a fish forcemeat — a
paper cornucopia must be used. Place the fish on a well-but-
tered dish, cover them with one pint of Italienne sauce, and
bake in a hot oven for ten minutes. Squeeze some lemon juice
over them and serve in the same dish.
Smelt Croquettes
Select as many medium-sized fresh smelts as you desire to
serve. Clean and prepare them as you would for broiling,
removing backbone, dry them, and set in cool place. Boil one
pound of halibut, pound it fine, then add a little Sherry, white
pepper and salt to taste. Beat in enough cream sauce to ena-
ble you to form the mixture into small croquettes. Roll a
smelt around each one, fastening it by sticking the head
through the tail. Roll in beaten egg and fine bread crumbs
and fry in hot lard. Drain on thick brown paper. Arrange a
lemon basket in the centre of a dish, around it place the smelts
and garnish border with half of the whites of hard-boiled eggs,
each filled with Tartare sauce.
Turbot a la Creme
In place of turbot either bass or codfish will answer. Boil
with plenty of salt, remove the skin and bones, and flake it.
Boil one quart of cream, and while boiling stir in three table-
spoons of flour, perfectly smooth, and add a bunch of parsley
and one onion. Take out both vegetables. Clarify a quarter
of a pound of butter and add to the cream after it is boiled.
Butter a deep dish, and put in first a layer of fish, then one of
122 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
sauce, alternating till the dish is filled, making the sauce come
on top. Strew over a layer of sifted bread crumbs and bake
one hour. Garnish the dish with chopped eggs or parsley.
Pried White-bait
Wash the fish by putting them in a colander and running
the water over them. Drain them well and soak in milk for
thirty minutes. Drain and wipe dry. Dredge with flour and
roll in crumbs. Set in ice-box until wanted. Have some hot
olive oil or clarified drippings. Put in wire basket a handful at
a time and as soon as they rise they are done, which will be less
than one minute. Continue frying till all are done, keeping
the fried ones hot. AVhen all are fried let the fat get very hot,
put all of them in wire basket and plunge in fat for a minute
or two. Take out, dredge with salt, and serve very hot with
Tartare sauce. Brown bread is always served with this fish.
Baked Whitefish
Season some fillets of whitefish with salt and white pepper.
Dip them in beaten egg^ then in bread crumbs, then in egg,
then in bread crumbs again, and lastly in beaten egg. Heat a
good-sized lump of lard in a baking dish, add the fillets, and
bake in the oven for twenty-five minutes. Have them baked a
light brown. Drain thoroughly, serve on hot dish with fried
parsley as a garnish, and serve cream sauce with finely chopped
parsley in a separate dish.
Eels fried in Batter
Cut a large eel weighing about two pounds in quite thick
slices. See that it is clean. Place in a basin with a little salt
and pepper and some vinegar. Let the pieces soak for several
hours. They must be turned occasionally. Drain thoroughly,
then dip in batter and fry in hot fat. When a nice brown, drain
on paper and serve very hot with a brown or tomato sauce.
FISH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TERRAPIN 123
Baked Eel with Tartare Sauce
Skin two fat eels, each weighing about one and a half
pounds. Cut off the fins, heads, and tails. Clean them thor-
oughly and tie them together so as to shape them on a round
platter. Wrap them in a wet cloth and cook slowly in court
bouillon for fifteen minutes. Set aside and let them cool in
the liquor. Season about one pint of fine bread crumbs with
one teaspoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of pepper. Carefully
remove the cloth from the fish, wipe dry, and cover them with
the bread crumbs. Then spread them with a mixture of two
well-beaten eggs and one tablespoonful of olive oil. Sprinkle
once more with bread crumbs. Place them in a baking pan,
being particular to keep the circular shape. Add two and a
half tablespoonfuls of butter. Bake in moderate oven for half
an hour. Baste them three times. Place on a circular dish.
In the centre place green peppers filled with Tartare sauce
after you have removed the core and seeds from peppers, soaked
them in cold water, drained thoroughly, and then filled them
with the sauce.
Canapes of Meat or Fish
Toast six pieces of bread and cut them in good-sized
squares. Beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, put
them in a pastry bag, and then make a border round each piece
of toast. Bake in quick oven till light brown. Fill in the
centre with creamed fish or finely minced creamed meat and
serve very hot.
Canapes a la Prince of Wales
Take six prawns, six fillets of anchovy, one head of white
celery, two gherkins, and two truffles. Cut all into small
square pieces about the size of a large pea. Put them into a
boAvl with enough Prince of Wales sauce to season them thor-
oughly. Pour nice clear aspic jelly in the bottom of some
124 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
china cases, then put in the mixture. Pour some more jelly on
the top and set it aside to jell. When wanted, unmould on
a platter which has nice white lettuce leaves around the edge.
Set individual moulds in the centre and garnish with chopped
aspic.
Fricassee of Oysters
Select thirty medium-sized oysters. Place them in their
own liquor on the stove and let them come to a boil. Skim
them and pour in a strainer. Heat one tablespoonful of butter,
add two tablespoons of flour, mix thoroughly, and then stir in
the oyster liquor and half a pint of cream. Season with white
pepper, a dash of cayenne, and salt. Beat thoroughly the yolks
of two eggs with the juice of half a lemon. Stir into the
sauce. Then add the oysters and serve very hot.
Fried Oysters
Select large oysters, clean, and parboil slightly to draw out
some of the water. Drain and dry on a towel. Roll in fine
bread or cracker crumbs, dip in mayonnaise dressing, then in
crumbs again. Let them stand five minutes, and if they seem
moist, dip again in crumbs, and cook in deep hot fat for one
minute. Being already cooked, they only need to be thor-
oughly heated and the crumbs browned.
Scalloped Oysters
Clean one pint of medium-sized oysters. Moisten one tea-
cup of cracker crumbs with one-third of a cup of melted butter.
Spread one-fourth of the crumbs in a baking dish, over them
put one-half of the oysters, season with salt, white pepper, and
lemon juice. Then spread another quarter of a cup of the
crumbs, then the remaining oysters. Season again with salt,
pepper, and lemon juice, and cover with the remaining crumbs.
Bake in quick oven until the liquor bubbles and the crumbs are
brown.
FISH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TERRAPIN 125
Stuffed Oysters
Have at hand twenty-eight large oysters and some chicken
forcemeat prepared as follows : Scrape and pound the breast of
an uncooked medium-sized fowl, then rub it through a puree
sieve. Mix one-quarter of a cup of cream or milk with one-
eighth of a cup of fine bread crumbs. Cook them slowly until
they form a smooth paste. Then add the chicken, the white
of one egg, one tablespoonful of butter, one-half teaspoonful
of salt, a bit of white pepper. Mix all together thoroughly
and set away to cool. Dry the oysters thoroughly and season
them with salt and pepper. Roll them in bread crumbs.
Arrange the forcemeat in half as many pieces as you have
oysters and at a corresponding size. Place a piece on fourteen
oysters, cover with the remaining oysters. Press them together
so they will stick. Take one whole egg and the yolk left from
the forcemeat. Beat it well, season with a little salt. Dip
each oyster in the egg, then roll them in bread crumbs. Have
them well covered with egg and crumbs. Fry in hot fat until
a good color. Drain on brown paper and serve very hot with
Madeira sauce in a separate dish.
Broiled Oysters
Drain on a towel as many large oysters as are required.
Dip them in melted butter, then in cracker crumbs which have
been seasoned with pepper and salt. Lay them on a well-but-
tered fine broiler and broil until slightly colored.
Oyster Croquettes
Cook slightly one quart of oysters in their own liquor.
Make a sauce as follows : Heat two tablespoonfuls of butter,
stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour, then stir in one-half cup of
cream and some of the oyster liquor. Cook until the mixture
is a thick sauce. Season with a few drops of Sherry, salt, white
126 MBS. seelt's cook book
pepper, and a dash of cayenne. Chop the oysters very fine and
add to the sauce. Set away to cool. When cold, shape into
croquettes, roll in beaten Qgg^ then in fine bread crumbs, and
fry in hot fat. Drain on heavy brown paper. Serve with
cream sauce in a separate dish.
Oyster Croquettes
Boil two quarts of oysters, wdth a little broth, pepper, 'very
little ground mace, and two ounces of butter, for two minutes.
Then drain on a sieve. Cool them a little and save the liquor.
Then slice the oysters — do not chop them. Mix two ounces
of butter, one ounce of flour, and one tablespoonf ul of chopped
shallots. Cook them until slightly browned, then add one-half
pint of the oyster liquor. Stir and boil five minutes. Then
add the beaten yolks of four eggs, the sliced oysters, a little
chopped parsley, and a dash of red pejiper. Stir constantly
and boil three minutes longer. Then stir in the juice of one
lemon and set away to cool. When cold, divide the mixture
into pieces the size of an Qgg^ roll them in pulverized crackers,
and with the blade of a knife give them a rectangular shape
about one inch thick. Dip in beaten eggs, then in crackers
again, and fry a light brown in plenty of clear hot lard. Dish
up on a folded napkin, garnish with fried parsley and quartered
lemons, and serve.
Oyster Croustades
Take six nice pieces of butter the size of an Qgg. Sliape
them a little wider at one end than the other. Roll them
thickly in bread crumbs, then in the beaten yolks of three
eggs, then again in bread crumbs. Set them on ice for half
an hour. When cold, drop them, one by one, in boiling fat
and fry until a delicate brown. With a sharp knife, take off
the tops. Let the butter run out, and fill each one w^th
creamed oj^sters. Garnish with parsley and serve them very
hot.
FISH, OYSTEIiS, LOBSTERS, TEIiUAPIN 127
Creamed Oysters for Croustades
Cook for two minutes one ounce of flour and one ounce of
butter. Stir in one-half cup of milk and two tablespoonfuls
of mushroom liquor. Let the mixture come to a boil, then add
one-half cup of cream, one-half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of
cayenne, and a little nutmeg. Wash one quart of medium-sized
oysters, cutting out the hard part. Stir them into the sauce.
Let them come to a boil or until they begin to curl. Fill each
croustade with the mixture and serve very hot.
Oyster Patties
Work one ounce of butter and one tablespoonful of flour
into a smooth paste. When warm, add a little ground mace,
salt, and cayenne. Gradually stir in three tablespoonfuls of
cream. Boil for three or four minutes. Then pour in the
strained liquor of two dozen small oysters. Lastly, add the
oysters. Stir for a few minutes and fill patties prepared as
follows : Line some patty pans with thin puff paste, fill with
rice so they will keep their shape, cover the top with another
piece of pastry. Bake in brisk oven. When baked, take off
the top, empty out the rice, fill with the oysters, which have
been kept warm, replace, cover, and serve.
Pigs in Blankets
Have at hand oysters, salt, pepper, sliced fat bacon. Clean,
and season some nice large oysters with salt and pepper.
Wrap each oyster in a slice of thin bacon, pinning it with a
toothpick. Cook them until the bacon is crisp.
Curried Oysters
Cook one quart of oysters over a slow fire in their own
juice. If the juice is not sufficient to cook them, add a little
water. Add also a tablespoon of butter, a teaspoon of curry
powder, and salt and pepper to taste. When the oysters are
128
firm, stir in one tablespoon of flour moistened to a paste with
water. Stir carefully and thoroughly while the liquor thickens.
Cromeskies
Have at hand thirty-five oysters, an equal quantity of
cooked chicken, three or four mushrooms, two teaspoons of
cream, three eggs, some frying batter, some slices of very thin
and fat bacon, and some parsley. Scald the oysters in their
own liquor. Remove the hard part, also the black edge or
beard as it is called. Cut the part remaining into small pieces,
also cut the chicken and the mushrooms very fine. iMake a
cream sauce, add the liquor the oysters were scalded in, and
boil until it is very thick. A little cream, if you have it, could
be added. Mix it with the oysters, chicken, and mushrooms,
stir in the yolks of three eggs, stir it over the fire for three or
four minutes. Spread the mixture on a dish and set it away
to cool. When thoroughly cold, roll into pieces about the size
and shape of a good-sized cork, wrap each one in a very thin
slice of bacon. Dip each one in batter and fry in hot lard.
When a nice brown, drain on brown paper and serve on hot
plate with a garnish of fried parsley.
Oysters a la Lincoln
Line as many cases, — metal, paper, or china, — as desired
with veal forcemeat for fish. Poach one quart of medium-sized
oysters in their own liquor with one gill of white wine. When
cooked, drain, and pare them. Cut them in half -inch-sized
pieces and fill each case with these. Chop some raw mush-
rooms and fry them for a few minutes in a little butter and
place them on top of the oysters. Cover with veloute sauce,
which has been mixed with the oyster liquor and then boiled
down. Cover then with another layer of forcemeat. Brush
each one with melted butter. Bake on tin sheet in a slack
oven for fifteen minutes.
FISH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TERRAPIN 129
Pickled Oysters
Place one hundred good-sized oysters in porcelain-lined
kettle, strain the liquor and add also eighteen cloves, half
a nutmeg grated, one teaspoonful of allspice, four blades of
mace, a little cayenne pepper, one teasj)oonful of salt, and two
tablespoonfuls of strong vinegar. Stir all thoroughly with a
wooden spoon. Put over a slow fire. Take off the fire several
times and stir them thoroughly. Just as soon as they come to
a boil, pour them in a porcelain-lined pan. Let them stand in
a cool place. They will be ready to serve the next day.
Clam Cocktail
Open twelve small clams carefully and place the clams and
their juice in a basin to allow any sand or shell to settle, then
carefully remove them to another bowl and place them on ice.
When they are thoroughly chilled, add sufficient catsup to fill
four glasses about as large as claret glasses, one small teaspoon-
ful of grated horseradish, three shakes of Tabasco sauce, one
tablespoonful of vinegar, and the iced clams. Sometimes one-
half teaspoonful of grated onion is added. Serve very cold.
Oyster Cocktail
Place six very small and thoroughly chilled oysters in a
glass that will hold as much as a claret glass. To each glass
add two drops of Tabasco sauce, one teaspoonful of Worcester-
shire sauce, one dessertspoonful of catsup, and a little lemon
juice or vinegar. Serve very cold.
Soft Clams a la Newburg
Select forty-five good-sized soft clams. Open them and
see that they are free from sand. Take each one separately
and with the fingers separate the body from the neck. Take
care not to break the body. Reject all the rest. Put them
130 MRS. SEELT'S cook BOOK
in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, a little wliite pepper,
a wineglassful of Sherry, and two medium-sized truffles cut in
fine pieces. Cover them and cook slowly for eight minutes.
Mix the yolks of three eggs and one pint of cream, beat for
three minutes, and pour over the clams. Shake the saucepan
gently for three or four minutes. Do not let the mixture boil
and do not stir it. Pour into a hot dish and serve at once.
Baked Soft-shell Clams
Select as many soft-shell clams as are desired. Be sure to
get very large ones. Scrub the shells clean. Then remove the
string and loosen the clam from the shell, leaving it as nearly
whole as possible. Season each clam in its shell with pepper
and a little butter. Then place a very thin slice of pork over
each one and replace the other half of the shell. Set them in
a pan and bake in a moderate oven until thoroughly steamed.
Clam Croquettes
Drain thoroughly and cook two quarts of opened clams
until tender with an ounce of butter, a little broth, white
pepper, and ground mace — mace may be omitted. Drain again
in a colander. Save the liquid and chop the clams fine. Fry
a scant tablespoonful of chopped shallot in two ounces of
butter until slightly brown and add one ounce of sifted flour.
Mix well and then stir in one pint of the liquid you have
saved. Stir and boil five minutes. Then add the yolks of
four eggs, a dash of red pepper, the chopped clams, and a little
finely chopped parsley. Stir constantly and boil two minutes.
Add the juice of one lemon. Turn on a dish to cool. Form
the mixture into sixteen oblong pieces. Dip in beaten egg,
then in cracker crumbs, and fry a light brown. Drain on a
brown paper. Serve with a garnish of fried parsley and
quartered lemon.
FISH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TERRAPIN 131
Fried Soft-shell Crabs
After cleaning the desired number of crabs, season with salt
and pepper, dip in beaten egg, then in fine bread crumbs. Drop
in hot fat and cook until crisp and colored a nice brown. Drain
and place on hot dish, garnish with sliced lemon and parsley.
Serve with Tartare sauce or any fried fish sauce desired.
Timbale of Crabs
Cook one dozen hard shell crabs in boiling water with one
onion, a bunch of parsley, a head of lettuce, six peppercorns,
blade of mace, two cloves, one bay leaf, and one tablespoonful
of salt for ten minutes. Do not boil hard as it toughens the
meat. Remove the crabs and set them on a wooden dish to
cool. Pick out the meat from the body and claws. Pound well
in mortar and rub through puree sieve. Measure your crab meat.
There should be one-half pint, good measure. Mix with the meat
the well -beaten whites of two eggs. Set away in cool place.
Make the following sauce : One tablespoonful of butter
and one of flour. Let them come to a boil. Add one-half cup
of milk and one-half cup of the liquor the crabs were cooked in,
one-half teaspoonful salt, one-fourth teaspoonful white pepper,
and a good pinch of cayenne. Cook for a few minutes, then stir
in the yolks of two eggs, and set away to cool. When cold, add
the sauce to the fish with half a cup of whipped cream, measured
after the cream is whipped. Set on ice for a few minutes.
Decorate some small timbale moulds with lobster coral or truf-
fles. Put your forcemeat in, giving it a few knocks on the
table to settle forcemeat. Set in ice-box for half an hour.
Place the mould in a pan of hot water and cook in the oven for
fifteen or twenty minutes or until the forcemeat is firm. Un-
mould each timbale on a round piece of toast and garnish with
the claws and parsley. Put a tablespoonful of Bechamel sauce
on each mould and serve the rest in a sauce-boat.
132 MBS, SEELT'S COOK BOOK
Crab Parcie with Tomato Sauce
Take the meat of two crabs to every shell and mix with
two and one-half medium-sized slices of bread which have been
soaked in bouillon. (Water will do if you have no bouillon.)
Press out dry and add one tablespoonful of melted butter, one
teaspoonful of dry mustard. Pepper and salt to taste and
moisten all with one-half cup of tomato sauce.
Tomato Sauce
One-fourth of a can of tomatoes, one white onion cut up
and fried a little in two tablespoonfuls of butter, one-half tea-
spoonful of beef extract, which has been diluted in a little
water, four cloves of garlic, salt and pepper to taste, and finally
one teaspoonful of corn-starch, dissolved in water.
When the farcie is ready, fill the shells and sprinkle bread
crumbs on top ; add a small piece of butter. Place in the
oven until thoroughly heated.
Crab Canapes
Remove all the meat from eighteen hard-shell boiled crabs.
Place on a plate, season with a teaspoonful of salt and half a
saltspoonful of cayenne. Fry one finely chopped onion in one
ounce of butter over a moderate fire for about two minutes, add
two tablespoonfuls of flour, and cook two minutes more, then
pour in one gill of broth and cook slowly for five minutes. Stir
all the time it is cooking. Add the crab meat and cook all for
fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove and set away to
cool. Mix one tablespoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of
flour and cook over a moderate heat for three minutes. Add
two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese and two ounces of Swiss
cheese, stirring them well together until melted. While it is
cooling, cut six good-sized slices of bread about one-quarter of
an inch thick, trim off the crust and fry, until a light brown,
FISH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TERRAPIN 133
in a little fresh butter. When cool, spread each slice with a
layer of crab meat about one-quarter of an inch thick. Divide
the cheese mixture in six equal portions. Shape each into a
ball and place in the centre of the crab meat. Put all on a dish
and bake in a hot oven for five or six minutes. Serve in the
same dish they were in while cooking.
White House Canapes
Chop a medium-sized shallot and fry it lightly without color-
ing in two ounces of butter. Add a tablespoonful of flour and
stir in a pint of cream. Then add one pound of crab meat,
salt and pepper, and leave on the fire until it has just begun to
bubble. Cut slices of bread one-quarter of an inch thick, trim
in any desired shape, either round, oval, or square, and toast on
one side only. Put your ingredients on the toasted side of the
bread after buttering it with a butter prepared as follows :
Mix well together one-quarter of a pound of butter and one-half
pound grated Parmesan cheese, and season with red and white
pepper. Put the canapes on a buttered dish and slightly brown
in the oven.
Creamed Shrimps baked with Green Peppers
Select twelve even-sized green peppers, remove the stems
and seeds, and soak in cold water for three-quarters of an hour.
Drain them and stuff with the following mixture : Cream two
tablespoons of butter and thoroughly mix it with a quarter of a
teaspoonf ul of pepper, one teaspoonful of mixed mustard, one-
eighth of a teaspoonful of celery seed, and one beaten Qgg.
When mixed, stir in one cupful of fine bread crumbs. Then
add one quart of shrimps. Should the shrimps be fresh, — not
canned ones, — you will need to season the sauce with salt. Fill
each pepper with the mixture, sprinkle with fine bread crumbs
and a piece of butter, and bake in quick oven for fifteen minutes.
134 MRS. seely's cook book
Creamed Shrimps
The yolks of two eggs, one teaspoonful of anchovy sauce,
half a cup of cream, one bottle of shrimps, some slices of toast.
Mix in the chafing dish the yolks of the eggs with the anchovy
sauce and cream. Put in the shrimps and let them get thor-
oughly heated, not allowing the eggs to curdle. Serve on strips
of toast.
Pried Scallops
Wash and dry the necessary amount of scallops. Season
them with salt and white pepper. Roll them in fine bread
crumbs, then in beaten egg^ and again in bread crumbs. Arrange
in frying basket so they do not touch each other and plunge in
a kettle of boiling fat. Cook until a delicate brown and serve
with Tar tare sauce.
Scallop Fritters
W ash and drain one quart of scallops, season them with salt
and white pepper, and mix them with the following batter : One
pint of sifted flour, a scant half-pint of milk, one tablespoonful
of melted butter or oil, one teaspoonful of salt, and two eggs.
Beat the eggs briskl}^, then add the milk. Beat again and pour
the mixture on the flour. Then add the butter and salt. Stir
in the scallops. Drop a spoonful at a time of the mixture into
boiling fat. Cook until a nice brown. Drain on brown paper
and serve very hot.
Devilled Scallops
Put one quart of scallops in a saucepan and heat in their
own liquor just to the boiling-point. Drain, save the liquor,
and chop them rather fine. From one-half of a cup of butter
remove one tablespoonful. Beat the contents of the cup to a
cream, and add one teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth of a tea-
spoonful of cayenne, and one teaspoonful of made mustard. Beat
thoroughly and mix with one cupful of white stock — have it
FISH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TERRAPIN 135
hot. Stir the chopped scallops and their liquor into this sauce
and let them stand for half an hour. At the end of that time
put them in an escalop dish or shells. Sprinkle with the
crumbs, dot with the tablespoonful of butter, and bake in a
moderate oven for twenty minutes.
Broiled Lobster with Sauce
Select as many chicken female lobsters as desired. Split
them open and remove all the fat and coral. Set aside for the
sauce. Brush the meat of the lobster with melted butter, and
broil over a clear fire. When cooked, place on a platter and
pour a little melted butter over each lobster. Set in oven for
five minutes, then serve with the following sauce : —
Sauce for Broiled Lobster
The quantity of sauce depends upon the number of lobsters
you have. Mix salt, white pepper, oil, and vinegar, the same
as for a plain French dressing, but do not have it quite as
strong of the vinegar. Add dry mustard to taste, and the coral
and fat of the lobster. Stir constantly over the fire until it
comes to a boil. When served it should be as thick as a cream.
Stewed Lobster
Boil four medium-sized lobsters in salted water and a gen-
erous portion of vinegar. Remove the meat, cut in slices, and
arrange in the serving dish. Cover with another dish and keep
warm. Make a paste of two ounces of cracker crumbs, six
ounces of melted butter, add white pepper, a dash of cayenne,
and some chopped parsley. Boil three tablespoons of beef
extract with glass of Sherry, gradually stir in the crackers and
butter, also the fat of the lobster which has been rubbed through
a sieve. Stir in two tablespoons of vinegar. Do not let the
mixture boil after the crackers and butter have been added.
Mix well and pour over the lobster. Serve immediately.
136 3£RS, SEELT'S COOK BOOK
Should the sauce curdle, add a teaspoonful of water and stir
with an egg-beater.
Lobster a la Brooklyn with Sauce and Hominy Croustade
Cook two medium-sized lobsters in court bouillon for twenty-
five minutes. When cold, cut the shell with sharp scissors,
from the head down, taking care not to crack the shell.
Have the head and shell joined. Take out the tail and remove
the small black vein which runs the entire length. Also re-
move the small sac at the extreme end. Crack the claws care-
fully. Take the meat and fat from head, and be sure to
remove "the lady in the lobster." Remove the coral — should
there be any — and set aside for further use. Place the shells
and claws in cold water, and make the following forcemeat :
Put the lobster through a meat machine. To every cup of lob-
ster have one-half cup of bread crumbs, grated very fine, two
tablespoons of white sauce, half a cup of cream, one Sherry glass
of Madeira wine, and salt and white pepper to taste. Mix all
together thoroughly. Fill the shells, dust over with bread
crumbs and minute pieces of butter. Bake in moderate oven
until a delicate brown. Place on a croustade of hominy, gar-
nish with the claws, and serve with sauce made as follows : —
Sauce for Lobster a la Brooklyn
Melt one ounce butter, add one tablespoonful chopped onion,
and cook for five minutes. Do not let the mixture brown. Stir
in one tablespoonful flour and cook for two minutes. Add half
a pint of white stock and cook until it thickens. Remove and
strain through a fine sieve. Season to taste and add two wine-
glasses of Sherry. Serve very hot.
Hominy Croustade
Place one cup of hominy, one quart of water, and one teaspoon-
ful of salt in a saucepan over the fire. Stir well to free it from
FISH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TERRAPIN 137
lumps and cook for two hours. While hot, pour it into mould,
about one inch deep and the desired size to accommodate the
lobsters. Be sure to wet the mould with ice-water before pour-
ing in the hominy. When cool, turn it out on platter it is to
be served on. When it is to be warmed, stand the dish over
a pan of hot water.
Lobster a la Portland
Take off the tails and big claws of three medium-sized live
female lobsters. Remove the string which runs through the
centre of each tail and cut crosswise in five or six pieces. Crack
the claws and place them on a plate. Boil the bodies. Take
out the creamy substance and rub it through a sieve with four
egg yolks and one-half pint veloute sauce, four chopped shal-
lots, and one bruised clove of garlic. Add two ounces of butter
and fry a little without browning. Add the lobster, a bunch of
parsley, and pinch of red pepper. Fry a little longer, occasion-
ally tossing the lobster. Add one-half pint of white broth
and one-half pint of white wine, and boil fifteen minutes. Re-
move the bunch of parsley and skim out the lobster. Reduce
the liquid, add two ladlefuls of veloute sauce, and the prepared
egg yolks. Stir constantly until it nearly boils, add a little
chopped parsley and juice of one lemon. Pour the sauce over
lobster and serve at once.
Timbale of Lobster a la Maryland
Cook two medium-sized lobsters in court bouillon for twenty-
five minutes. Set aside to cool. Break the tail from the head,
cut the tail and remove the black vein which runs the entire
length, also remove small sac at the end. Remove "the lady"
from the head. There is quite a little meat to be found each
side near the small claws. Crack the big claws and remove the
meat. Cut all the meat into scallops about one-half inch square.
Make a sauce of the following : Boil three eggs until they
138 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
are hard, remove the yolks while they are hot, and pound to a
paste, add one heaping tablespoonful butter which has been
rubbed to a cream. When well mixed, add one heaping tea-
spoonful flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a good pinch of
cayenne. Mix all thoroughly and place in a saucepan with half
a cup of consomme. Let it boil up, then add one glass Madeira
wine.
Add the lobster and let it boil two minutes. Remove and
set away to cool. Line a large timbale mould with fish force-
meat, decorate your mould with the coral of the lobster, and put
on ice to harden. When firm, pour in the centre your lobster
mixture, cover over with forcemeat, and put on ice for one hour
and thirty minutes before you want it cooked. Place your
mould in a pan of water, cover with buttered paper. Bake in
medium oven until forcemeat is firm, from twenty-five to thirty
minutes. When done, unmould, serve with Maryland sauce in
the centre. Fish forcemeat is made the same as for pompano
fillets.
Lobster a la Newburg
Two pounds of lobster meat, one tablespoonful of butter,
one-half tablespoonful of flour, one cupful of cream, one tea-
spoonful of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, two
tablespoons of Sherry, and the yolks of two eggs. Melt the
butter in the chafing dish and then stir in the flour. When
well mixed, add the cream gradually, stirring it constantly.
When hot and smooth, add the nicest part of the lobster cut
into medium pieces. Cook until the lobster is thoroughly
heated. Add the salt, cayenne, and Sherry. Then add the
beaten yolks of the eggs and serve at once.
Lobster a la Newburg
Take two pounds of boiled lobster and pick all the meat out
of the claws. Cut the meat in medium-sized pieces and place
FISH, OYSTEBS, LOBSTERS, TERRAPIN 139
it in a deep saucepan, with half a pint of Madeira and a good-
sized piece of fresh butter; season with salt, a little nutmeg,
and a very little cayenne pepper. Then cook the whole well
together for six or seven minutes, keeping the lid on the pan
while cooking. Beat in a bowl a pint of sweet cream and the
yolks of two eggs ; add to this the lobster. Add also two finely
sliced truffles. Pour into a hot tureen and serve very hot.
Lobster a la Newburg
Cut the meat of a lobster weighing two or two and one-half
pounds in small pieces and heat in saucepan with two rounded
tablespoonfuls of butter. Sprinkle with one-half teaspoon of
salt, and a few grains of paprika, and one tablespoonful of
Sherry. Pour the yolks of two eggs and one cup of cream
ovCi- the lobster and stir until thick and smooth. Then add
one or two tablespoonfuls more of Sherry, according to taste.
Serve at once.
Lobster Timbale
Place two pounds of cooked lobster, half a pound of chicken
halibut, and the whites of two eggs in a mortar, pound to a pulp,
and then press through a puree sieve. Moisten with one-half
cup of Bechamel sauce and half a cup of cream. Beat all
together until very light. Season to taste with salt, white
pepper, a dash of cayenne, and a little grated nutmeg. Stir
thoroughly, then set the mixture away on ice for one hour or
more until it cools and stiffens. Then take a small portion,
place it in buttered timbale mould, and poach in the oven for
about ten minutes. At the end of that time, if not firm to the
touch, add the beaten white of one egg to the raw mixture. If
too firm to the touch, add more cream to the raw mixture.
Then place in buttered mould, cover with buttered paper,
and poach in the oven until firm to the touch. Serve with
Bechamel sauce, or any other desired.
140 MRS. seely's cook book
Lobster Curry
. Boil a medium-sized lobster, remove the meat, and cut it in
small pieces. Make a sauce as follows: Three ounces of butter,
one tablespoonful of browned flour mixed together over the
fire, and two small onions cut in very thin slices. Let this
cook a minute or two, then stir in one pint of stock, a little
salt, the juice of one lemon, and one tablespoonful of curry
dissolved in a little cold water. Boil all together until the mix-
ture thickens, then add the lobster. Have it thoroughly heated,
and serve at once with boiled rice in a separate dish.
Lobster Cutlets
Pass the meat from a large lobster through a mincing
machine. Place it in a stewpan and moisten generously with
curry sauce. Let it simmer, stirring frequently, for one-half
hour. The sauce should be absorbed. Remove from the fire,
stir in two eggs, and pour on a flat dish, as deep as you wish
your cutlets thick. When cold, form into cutlets with a me-
dium-sized cutter, flour them lightly, dip them in beaten egg,
and cover them thickly with fine sifted bread crumbs. Set the
cutlets in a cool place for half an hour and then fry in deep
boiling fat. Drain on paper. Garnish each one with a small
claw and serve.
Devilled Lobster with Sauce
Boil two medium-sized lobsters in salted water, to which has
been added a little vinegar. When cool, slit them and remove
the stony pouch and intestine. Pick all the meat, creamy sub-
stance, and coral from the body, tail, and claws, chop very fine.
Save the large shells, trim them, and arrange in a pan.
In a saucepan put two tablespoons of chopped shallots with
two ounces of butter, and fry until they are dry but not brown.
Sprinkle one ounce of flour over them, fry a little longer, then
stir in pint of broth. Add the lobster, salt, white pepper, a
LOBSTER CUTLETS.
^^^»
^F\
^ '^^
Facing page IkO.
MOULDS F0^^-tOii:iTEK CUTLETS.
prjBLiC )
FISH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TERRAPIN 141
pinch of cayenne, a little Worcestershire sauce, and two hand-
fuls of moistened and pressed bread crumbs. Stir steadily
while all boils five minutes, and add the yolks of four eggs,
some chopped parsley, and lemon juice. Mix well, fill the
eight prepared shells, sprinkle with bread crumbs, put small
bits of butter on top, and bake until slightly brown in a hot
oven for eight or ten minutes. Arrange on a folded napkin,
garnish with quartered lemons and serve with the following
sauce in a bowl : —
Sauce for Devilled Lobster
Fry one tablespoon of chopped shallots in one ounce of
melted butter until they are slightly brown, add two ladlef uls of
Espagnole sauce, one ladlef ul broth, two tablespoonfuls of mixed
mustard, a dash of red pepper, and a little Worcestershire
sauce. Stir and boil for five minutes. Press through a napkin
and stir in some chopped parsley. Serve hot.
Stewed Terrapin
Select live female terrapins, cover them with boiling w^ater,
and cook for ten minutes. Remove from the fire, and when
sufficiently cool, scrape the skin and pull out the toe nails.
Then cover them with fresh boiling water. Let them boil
until they are tender. When cool, break open the shell,
remove the meat, liver, and eggs. Be careful not to break
the gall sac which is embedded in the liver. Save all the juice
that comes from the terrapin while opening it. To each terra-
pin have one-half pound of butter, one-half pint of cream,
salt and pepper to taste. Roll the butter thoroughly in flour,
put it in a saucepan with the cream, terrapin, eggs, liver cut
in small pieces, and the terrapin juice. Boil steadily for
five minutes. Rub the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs with
enough Madeira wine to make a paste. Stir this with the
142 MRS. seely's cook book
terrapin ; scald it, but do not let it boil. Serve in a chafing
dish or individual covered dishes. If necessary, add more
Madeira wine.
Stewed Terrapin
Select three large diamond back terrapin. Plunge them
in boiling water to take the rough and hard skin off. Cook
them in slightly salted water. Drain and take out everything
from the shells. Remove the head, tail, nails, intestines,
lights, and gall bladder very carefully. Put the eggs on a
plate and cut the meat in pieces. Put this in a saucepan
with four ounces of butter and half a pint of Madeira wine.
Boil down until nearly dry. Mix the yolks of six eggs with
one pint of cream, a little salt and a pinch of cayenne, six
ounces of butter, and the eggs from the terrapin. Stir in
the terrapin and stir steadily over a brisk fire until the sauce
thickens. It must not boil. Serve immediately with quar-
tered lemons.
Terrapin a la Chamberlin
Put a female terrapin in boiling water for five minutes, to
loosen the skin, then take it out, skin it, and replace it in the
hot water. When the claws are soft, it is sufficiently boiled.
Take it out and remove the bottom shell first. Cut off the
head and claws, and take out the gall and sand bag, then cut
up the remainder. Cut up the entrails and all about half an
inch long. Be careful to preserve all the juice. Put in a stew-
pan. Make a dressing of flour, the yolks of two hard-boiled
eggs, a third of a pound of the very best butter, a proper pro-
portion of salt, red pepper, a small quantity of rich cream, and
a large wine-glass of Madeira or Sherry to each terrapin. All
of the ingredients to be of the best qualities. Dish promptly
and serve smoking hot.
CHAPTER VI
MEATS
Broiled Steak
When broiling, be sure to have a clear red bed of coals.
Grease the wires of your broiler and place your steak on it.
Hold each side over the extreme heat for a minute at a time,
continue this for four or five minutes. Then hold the broiler
farther away from the coals and keep turning the steak every
minute or two until steak is cooked. Remove to a platter, sea-
son with salt and pepper. Sprinkle generously with pieces of
butter. When the butter is melted, serve plain, or with any
sauce desired. The length of time a steak should be broiled
depends entirely upon its thickness. A steak one inch and a
half thick will cook underdone, or rare, in seven or eight min-
utes. Should you have a steak two and a half or three inches
thick, it is a good plan to begin cooking it in front of the coals.
The centre cooks, then it can be finished over the coals.
Broiled Fillet of Beef
Cut three and one-half pounds of the tenderloin of beef in
slices about three-quarters of an inch thick. Season with salt
and pepper. Broil for five or six minutes and serve with a
garnish of hot Bearnaise sauce.
Larded Steak
Take a piece of sirloin beef Aveighing four or five pounds.
Cut out the bones, trim it, and lard it on one side with fine
strips of larding pork. Season with salt and pepper. Cover
143
144 MRS. seelt's cook book
the bottom of a baking dish with a piece of pork skin, add one
thinly sliced carrot, one sprig of thyme, one bay leaf, and one
sliced onion. Place the beef on top, and bake in the oven for
half an hour. Place on a dish and keep warm. Add one-half
pint of consomme to the drippings. Boil two or three minutes.
Skim off the grease and strain into a separate dish. Serve
very hot.
Stuffed Beefsteak
Select a good-sized rump steak, about half an inch thick.
Make some bread forcemeat and spread it over the steak, and
roll all together and tie securely. Place it on a tin sheet set
a little up from the bottom of a kettle. Pour in enough water
to nearly cover it. Place the kettle where the meat will stew
slowly for two or three hours. Serve with any sauce you may
wish, and carve crosswise through the stuffing and meat.
Beefsteak with Fried Onions
Put a kettle of fat on the range where it will heat. Peel
and thinly slice two Spanish onions. Place them in a frying
basket. Broil the steak as previously directed. When the
meat is cooked, move the kettle forward, and when the fat is
very hot, plunge the basket of onions into it. Cook until crisp
and a nice brown. Drain and arrange them round the steak, or
in a separate dish, if wished.
Roast Beef
A great deal depends upon the weight and quality of a piece
of beef in determining how long it should be cooked. One
commonly allows nine minutes to the pound for a rib or loin
roast if it is to be rare, and twelve minutes to the pound if you
wish it an even red all the way through. A roast cut from the
round or rump will take forty minutes longer than the first-
named cuts. Rub the top and sides of the beef with salt and
pepper, put a few small pieces of butter over the top, and place
MEATS 145
it in a dripping pan. Pour about two tablespoonfuls of hot
water in the, pan, and put in hot oven with a steady heat.
Baste frequently while the beef is cooking. If the top burn,
open the oven door a little. When cooked, place on a hot plat-
ter. Sprinkle flour in a dripping pan, stir constantly, and add
enough boiling water to make the gravy or sauce the right
thickness. Strain and serve in separate dish. Any other sauce
may be served with the above. Sometimes the platter is gar-
nished with potatoes which have been roasted in the pan with
the beef. If so, do as follows: Select and peel medium-sized
potatoes. About half or three-quarters of an hour before the
beef is served, cut the potatoes in two lengthwise, and place in
the pan around the beef. Turn and baste them frequently.
If desired, garnish dish with Yorkshire pudding made as
follows : —
Yorkshire Pudding
Have at hand one and one-half pints of milk, six large
tablespoonfuls of flour, three eggs, and one saltspoonful of salt.
Put the flour and salt in a bowl, and stir gradually to this
enough milk to make a stiff batter. When this is perfectly
smooth and all the lumps are dissolved, add the remainder of
the milk and a well-beaten egg. Whisk the mixture and pour
it into a well-buttered, shallow tin. Bake for an hour. Then
for another half hour, place it in the pan underneath the meat,
so that it will catch a little of the juice from it. Cut the pud-
ding in small, square pieces, put them on a hot dish, and serve.
If the meat is baked, the pudding may at once be placed under it.
Beef Pie
Cut four and one-half pounds of sirloin beef in thin slices,
season with salt and pepper, and arrange in a deep baking dish
which is well buttered. Place first a layer of meat, then a layer
of choj)ped parsley, mushrooms, shallots, and a ladlef ul of thick
brown gravy, and so on until the dish is full. Wet the edge of
146
the dish, cover it with a rim of puff paste, wet again, and cover
the whole with a large, thin piece of paste. Press the edges
closely together. Brush the top with a beaten egg, make a few
incisions, and a hole in the centre. Bake in a moderate oven
for one hour. Pour a little gravy inside through the hole and
serve very hot.
Beef Bump with Dumplings
Cover four or five pounds of the rump of beef with cold
water. Skim when it comes to a boil, salt the water to taste,
and boil four or four and one-half hours until very tender.
Remove from the pot and place in a colander over hot water,
and cover to keep moist. Strain the beef broth through a
soup strainer, take out some for gravy, and return the rest in
which to boil dumplings. Thicken the gravy no thicker than
cream. Pour some over the meat and serve the rest in a
gravy boat.
Dumplings
One pint and a half of flour, one teaspoon of lard, a little
salt, two heaping teaspoons of baking powder. Mix these, wet-
ting with hot water. When partly mixed, add one beaten egg^
more water, and make the dough stiff enough to drop into the
water. Cover, and boil ten minutes, having care not to turn
them over in the pot. Serve at once.
Devilled Roast Beef Bones
Take the bones from cold roast beef, leaving as much meat
as possible on them. Season with salt and pepper, and rub
them with mustard paste. Roll in fresh bread crumbs and
sprinkle each one with little pieces of butter. Broil over a slow
fire until a nice brown and serve on a hot dish with thickened
brown gravy around them, or over them, as you wish.
FILLET OF BEEF.
Facing page lkC>.
KIDNEYS ON SKEWERS.
FfJBLIC j
<£iSRAS>
MEATS 147
Beef a la Mode
Cut and trim neatly the under part of a round of beef and
soak it in vinegar and spices for three or four hours. Prepare
the vinegar as follows : Chop one onion very fine, add a little
salt, pepper, dry mustard, and a few whole cloves. Mix all
with one cup of vinegar and boil for five minutes. Turn the
meat frequently. Lard it with pieces of salt pork cut about
one-quarter of an inch square and in strips as long as the meat
is thick. Brown three onions, one carrot, and one turnip, all
sliced, in drippings. Place them in a pan. Brown the meat in
the same way, fasten a cloth round the beef, so as to keep it a
good shape, then place it in the pan on a perforated tin a little
higher than the bottom of the pan. Cover about half with boil-
ing water, add a small bag of herbs ; partially cover the pot, and
simmer for three and a half hours, or until tender, — it depends
upon the size of the beef. Remove the cloth and place the meat
on hot platter. Skim the grease from the gravy, season with
salt and pepper, and thicken with flour blended with a little
water. Let it boil and brown. Strain and pour over the beef.
Garnish with potatoes cut in fancy shapes and small boiled
onions.
Fillet of Beef with Mushroom Sauce
Buy the short fillet under the rump, using two if necessary.
Wipe, remove the fat and veins and tendons in the middle,
and have it well larded with thin strips of pork. All this
can be done by the butcher. Then rub the fillet well with
salt and pepper. Put two slices of fat pork in baking pan
with one slice of onion and a bit of bay leaf. Place the
meat in the pan and bake in a hot oven for thirty minutes.
Baste often, and serve with mushroom sauce poured round the
meat.
148 MBS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
Mushroom Sauce
Pour off all but two tablespoonfuls of drippings in the pan.
Stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour, and when brown add one
pint of boiling water. Cook until it thickens. Then strain
into a saucepan and add one cup of mushrooms, one tablespoon
of lemon juice, and more salt if needed. Heat thoroughly but
do not let it boil.
Braised Roll of Beef a la Printaniere
Select a piece of sirloin of beef well covered with fat and
weighing about twelve or fifteen pounds. Remove the bone,
leaving the fillet adhering to the upper part. Lard the fillet
with pieces of ham or bacon, having the pieces one-quarter of
an inch square and four inches long. Then roll the beef up
close and fasten it round with a string to secure its shape.
Break up the bones and place them with the trimmings in the
bottom of a pan or kettle. Place the roll of beef on the bones.
Add two carrots, two onions with a clove stuck in each, tAVO
heads of celery, and a small bouquet. Moisten with about
quarter of a bottle of Sherry, and, if desired, one small glass of
brandy. Set the whole on the range and let it simmer slowly
for ten minutes. Then add enough good beef broth or con-
somme to nearly cover the beef. Cover the beef w4th a but-
tered paper. When the liquid comes to a boil, place where
it will boil slowly for two or three hours, or until tender. The
time has to be regulated by the size and tenderness of the meat.
Dish it, place round it groups of young carrots, turned in their
own shape, asparagus tops, small buds of cauliflower, and
French beans cut in diamond shapes and boiled green. Cut
some boiled turnips in the shape of deep saucers. Fill each
one with green peas and place in a border round the dish.
Pour some Espagnole sauce round the border of turnips, glaze
the meat, and serve very hot.
MEATS 149
Fried Ox Tails
Cut between the joints in pieces about three inches long,
the thick part of half a dozen ox tails. Soak in cold water for
about one hour. Drain, and put in a saucepan with three-
quarters of a pound of sliced onion and one pound and three-
quarters of sliced carrot. Season with salt and pepper, add
one good-sized bouquet, and cover all with three quarts of
broth. Boil over a slow fire for three or four hours, or until
the meat is tender. Test it with a fork. Put the pieces in a
dish and cover them with the broth. When partially cool, dip
each piece in beaten egg^ then in fine bread crumbs ; fry until a
nice brown. Drain on brown paper. Serve hot with a tomato
sauce.
Corned Beef
Select a six-pound piece of rump or brisket corned beef
and place it in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover it.
Let it boil briskly three hours and a half or more, until tender.
If served with kale sprouts, add them to the meat about one-
half hour before time for serving. Drain them on to a hot
platter and place the corned beef on them. If wished, plain
boiled spinach may be served instead of sprouts.
French Creamed Corned Beef Hash
Cut up in equal-sized pieces some nice, red cooked corned
beef, also some cooked potatoes cut in the same way. Do not
chop them. To one cup of meat have three-quarters of a cup
of potatoes. Put a tablespoonful of butter in an iron or agate
saucepan. When the butter begins to boil, add the beef and
potatoes, and a little chopped green pepper. When well mixed
in butter, add one cup of rich cream. Mix well, and let it boil
up once. Serve on a very hot platter. Garnish with heart-
shaped pieces of toast, put sprigs of parsley round the platter.
Poached eggs may be served with it on a separate dish.
150 MRS. seelt's cook book
Timbale of Tongue with Sauce
Place two pounds of smoked boiled tongue and the breast
of one medium-sized raw chicken in a mortar, and pound until
smooth. Then stir in two tablespoons of flour, the whites
of two eggs, one cup of cream, one tablespoon of Breton red
coloring, a little salt and pepper, and a dash of cayenne. Press
through a puree sieve. Then stir in one cup of whipped cream.
Decorate the bottom of a buttered mould with pieces of truffles.
Fill with the tongue and chicken mixture. Cover with buttered
paper. Place in a pan of water and in a moderate oven ; cook
it for half an hour. Serve with the following sauce : —
Sauce for Tongue Timbale
Mix two tablespoons of butter and two tablespoons of flour.
Stir over a slow fire, then add one cup of chicken broth, one-
half cup of cream, and the beaten yolks of two eggs. Cook
until the sauce becomes of the right consistency. Season with
salt, white pepper, and three tablespoonfuls of Madeira wine.
Stir in some finely chopped truffles. Serve very hot.
Tongue Stew
Put a fresh tongue in cold water, add three pounds of lean
beef. Let them boil together gently four hours, and at the
end of the time add carrots, potatoes, and other vegetables if
you wish. Brown the flour with which you thicken the gravy,
and before thickening add a dozen cloves, salt and pepper to
taste, and half a glass of wine. Strain the gravy to get out all
the bones, peel the tongue, return it to the gravy, and send to
the table without the beef.
Brains with Mushrooms
Prepare the brain of an ox by washing and skimming it,
and then steep it on the back of the range for an hour. When
MEATS 151
it is well steeped, rub it with flour and salt, lay on it bits of
butter, and set it in the oven, having added water to the dish in
which it is to bake. Bake it for an hour, basting it often, and
serve with a mushroom sauce. An onion sauce may be substi-
tuted for the mushroom sauce.
Stewed Beef Kidney-
Select two beef kidneys, remove the fatty substance from
the middle, and cut in slices. Wash in salt and water, then in
fresh water. Drain thoroughly and season with salt and pepper.
Fry in boiling hot butter until slightly brown, shaking the sauce-
pan all the time. Drain the butter off and put the kidneys on
a plate. Pour a scant pint of Espagnole sauce in a saucepan
with two wine-glasses of Sherry. Boil until quite thick. Add
some sliced mushrooms, — seven or eight, — the kidneys, four
ounces of butter in small bits, some chopped parsley, and lemon
juice. Mix well without boiling. Taste, and add more season-
ing if necessary. Dish up as high as possible on an entree dish.
Baked Tripe
Cut one pound and a half of tripe in small squares. Put
them in an agate pan with five chopped onions. Season with
salt and white pepper. Cover with stock or water and bake in
a slow oven for three hours. Pour off the liquid, strain it into
a saucepan. Add enough flour to make a thick sauce. Stir
over hot fire until it boils up once. Range the tripe, etc., in
a baking dish. Pour in the sauce and cover all with mashed
potatoes beaten to a cream. Bake in a hot oven until all is
thoroughly heated and the potatoes a nice brown.
Fried Tripe with Espagnole Sauce
Cut two pounds of tripe into small pieces. Fry until a
light brown, with three ounces of butter, one finely chopped
152 3fRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
onion, and half a green pepper finely chopped. Peel one good-
sized tomato, cut it in pieces, and mix with one-half pint of
Espagnole sauce. Season with salt, pepper, a bouquet, and
one crushed clove of garlic. Stir the tripe in this sauce and
cook for ten minutes. Remove the bouquet, add one teaspoon-
ful of finely chopped parsley, and serve at once.
Stewed Tripe with Tomatoes
Wash one pound of tripe, cover it with hot water, add one
onion cut in quarters, and stew thirty-five minutes. Stew one
pint of tomatoes ten minutes, strain, add a seasoning of salt
and pepper, and two tablespoons of flour wet with cold water.
Drain the tripe thoroughly, cut it in strips, and add it to the
sauce. Boil all up together with a tablespoon of butter and
serve.
Fricasseed Veal
Divide into bits of say the size of your two fingers a couple
of pounds of veal, and make it quite free of fat, bone, and skin.
Dissolve a couple of ounces of butter in a stewpan, and just as
it begins to boil lay in the veal and shake the pan until the
meat is firm, but uncolored. Stir in a tablespoon of flour, and
when it is well mixed with the cutlets pour gradually over
them, shaking the pan often, enough hot veal stock or gravy to
cover them. Stew them gently until they are perfectl}^ tender
— this may be fifty or sixty minutes, or longer. Add salt, a
quarter of a pint of rich cream, and, if you like, a few strips of
lemon rind. Two or three dozen mushroom buttons added
twenty minutes before it is served will improve the fricassee.
Veal Potpie with Dumplings
Cut three pounds of the leg or loin of veal in small pieces
about three inches square. Cut one-half pound of salt pork in
thin slices. Lay the pieces of pork in the bottom of pot, then
MEATS 153
add pieces of veal, then more pork and veal. Cover with tepid
water and let it slowly come to a boil. Chop one onion and
one head of celery very fine and add to the veal. Let all simmer
for one hour, then season to taste. Be sure you have enough
liquid in which to cook the dumplings. Twenty minutes before
serving, put in your dumplings, dropping them a spoonful at a
time. Let them boil steadily for fifteen minutes. Remove at
once and dish. Put the meat in the centre of a deep platter
and the dumplings round. Strain the broth in which meat and
dumplings were cooked, and skim off all the fat. In a saucepan
melt one tablespoonful butter, add one teaspoonful flour, and
then the broth. Pour over the meat and serve very hot.
Garnish with parsley.
Dumpling for Potpie
One egg, one cup of flour, half a cup of water, one teaspoon
of baking powder, half a teaspoon of salt, a pinch of cayenne.
Sift the flour and baking powder together and add the cayenne.
Whip the egg very lightly and add it to the water. Then mix
with the flour. Beat well with wire whisk. Boil in the pot
with the meat. Do not put them too close together, but allow
room for them to swell.
Veal a la Cadet
Choose a solid piece of fat white veal. With a larding
needle thrust inside some long strips of larding pork and ham.
Put the veal in a hollow earthen vessel with some thinly sliced
onion, olive oil, pieces of thyme, bay leaves, parsley, salt, and
white pepper. Let it soak for six or seven hours, occasionally
turning it so it will absorb the seasoning. Then place on a
long skewer, wrap in three thicknesses of oiled paper with the
vegetables, etc., inside, and roast in a moderate oven for one
hour and a half, according to size. Remove the paper, leave
the vegetables in the pan, let the veal brown, and put it on a
154
dish. Add a little broth and a dash of cayenne to the liquid in
the pan. Cook for a minute or two. Then strain and remove
grease. Mix with one pint of tomato sauce. Heat thoroughly.
Dish veal, pour some of the sauce round it, and serve the rest
in a separate dish.
Veal Cutlets a la Polonaise
The following proportions are for six : Take two pounds
of veal from a leg of veal, chop the meat fine, add two table-
spoons of bread crumbs or of rolled cracker crumbs, one table-
spoon of butter, four eggs, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix
the ingredients well, form them in fiat oval cutlets about half
an inch thick, paint with the white of an egg^ sprinkle with
cracker meal, and fry in butter to a golden brown. Serve a
slice of lemon on each cutlet. A lemon sauce is sometimes
served with the cutlets, but more often green peas or macaroni
with drawn butter, or a puree of potatoes. These cutlets are
also delicious when made from the breast of a turkey or chicken.
Veal Cutlet with Puree of Cucumber
Flatten, trim, and season with salt or pepper eight small veal
cutlets. Fry in melted butter until a light brown on both sides.
Drain off the butter, add one glass of sherry, a little broth,
and two ladles of Espagnole sauce. Cover and stew fifteen
minutes. Pour some of the puree on a dish, arrange the cutlets
in a circle. Pour the reduced sauce over them and serve.
Veal Cutlets London Fashion
Take cutlets a little more than a quarter of an inch thick,
cut from the best end of a neck of veal, free them from skin
and fat, brush them with egg, dip them in fine bread crumbs,
and fry them a light brown in deep fat. Toast or broil apart
as many slices of bacon as you have cutlets, and set the bacon
and cutlets on their edge round the inside of a hot dish, placing
MEATS 155
them alternately. Pour in the middle a rich gravy, or vsub-
stitute for this a rich mushroom sauce. Savory herbs and
salt and pepper should be mixed with the bread crumbs.
Veal Loaf
Cut the last shavings from the almost naked bone of a boiled
ham. If you have no cold veal, cook one pound of it. The
coarsest piece will do, but it must be lean. While the meat
cools, boil down the liquor it was boiled in until there is only
one-half cupful. If your veal is already cooked, treat a cupful
of gravy the same way. Add to this a teaspoonful of butter,
the juice of half a lemon, pepper and salt to taste, and a pinch
of mace. Chop the veal and ham very fine, mix well together.
Moisten thoroughly with the gravy and press into a bowl or
mould. Cover the surface with a small plate, and on this set a
heavy weight. By the following day it will be firm. Invert
it on a dish and cut in thin slices. Scraps of poultry may be
worked up nicely with the ham. Keeping an eye to the odds
and ends enables one to make many a tasty relish without extra
expense.
Veal a la Marengo
Cut three and a half pounds of lean veal in small pieces.
Put them in a saucepan with two and a half ounces of pork
and one onion, both cut in small pieces. Shake them round in
the pan and, when a nice brown, sprinkle with three scant
tablespoons of flour. Stir all together. Then add one quart
of broth and one gill of tomato sauce. Season with salt, pepper,
a bouquet, and a little garlic. Cook all for forty-five minutes.
Serve on a hot platter and garnish with squares of bread fried
a golden brown color. Sprinkle finely chopped parsley over
the meat.
Flaw
Boil a piece of lean veal till it is tender. Take it up, cut it
in strips three or four inches long, put it back in the pot with
156 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
the liquor it was boiled in, and add a teacup of rice to three
pounds of veal. For the same quantity of veal allow a piece of
butter the size of an Qgg. Season with salt, pepper, and sweet
herbs if you like. Stew gently till the rice is tender and the
water nearly stewed away.
Knuckle of Veal with Rice
Pour over a small knuckle of veal rather more than water
enough to cover it, bring it slowly to a boil, take off the scum
with great care, and throw in a teaspoon of salt. When the
joint has simmered for about half an hour, throw in from eight
to twelve ounces of well-washed rice, and stew the meat gently
for an hour and a half longer, or until both meat and rice are
perfectly tender. A seasoning of cayenne and more salt,
should it be required, are added twenty or thirty minutes before
serving. If it is at hand, good veal broth may with advantage
be substituted for the water.
Pickled Veal
Cut cold cooked veal in small pieces and cover with scalding
hot vinegar. To three scant pints of vinegar add ten whole
cloves, half a stick of cinnamon, one teaspoonful of salt, and ten
peppercorns. Stir these into the scalding vinegar and then
pour over the veal. Let the mixture stand for one day. It is
then ready to serve for luncheon or supper.
Meat and Nut Balls
Blanch the nuts and allow thirty to every pint of chopped
meat. The nuts should also be chopped. Either veal or lamb
may be used. Mix the nuts and meat, season with pepper and
salt, and use an Qgg or two for binding the whole together.
Mould in small balls, or roll them out in croquette form and
lay them in a baking dish. Pour over them a pint of strained
MEATS 157
tomatoes, allowing a pint to a pint of the mixture of nuts and
meat, and cook fifteen or twenty minutes. Serve the balls on
a hot dish, and pour round them the thickened tomatoes.
Sweetbread Jardiniere with Sauce
Prepare three pairs of sweetbreads by first letting them
stand in cold water for one hour. Change the water during
that time. Then put them over the fire with enough white
stock to cover them. Add one teaspoonful of salt, six whole
peppers, one blade of mace, one onion, one slice of carrot, and a
stalk of celery. Let them come to the boiling-point, remove,
and leave them in the liquor until cold enough to handle.
Then remove all the skin and fatty parts and cut them in the
shape of a chop. Press them by putting a plate on top and
setting a light weight on it, to keep them in shape. Leave
them in the press one hour. Put two ounces of butter in a
saucepan and clarify it. Then add the sweetbreads. When
they become a rich golden brown, remove them and keep them
in a warm place. Have some nice chicken forcemeat. Put a
layer of it on top of each sweetbread, and on top of that, a slice
of cooked beef tongue a little smaller than the sweetbread.
Wrap each one in oiled paper. Place in a pan and steam on
top of the range until the forcemeat is firm. Have some spinach
cooked and put through a fine sieve. Place on a dish a mould
of spinach. With spinach in a pastry bag ornament the edges
of the dish, and in the centre make a rosette so the sweetbreads
will have a support. Have some nice white turnips cooked in
stock. Cut them in halves, or with a fancy cutter cut each one
the desired size. Then with a small cutter scoop out the inside
of the turnip. Let them stand in the broth they were cooked
in until wanted. Now dish your sweetbreads, remove the
paper. Place them round on the spinach border. Put turnips
round the dish, fill each one with green peas. Serve with the
following sauce : —
158 MBS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Jardiniere Sauce
Melt one tablespoonf ul of butter, one tablespoonful of flour,
and when they come to a boil add a teaspoonf ul of finely chopped
onion, one of celery chopped very fine, two cloves, one table-
spoonful of carrot chopped fine, one teaspoonful of salt, one
small bunch of parsley, and a dash of cayenne. When this has
boiled a few minutes, add one pint of good consomme. Cook
until it thickens. When ready to serve add two tablespoonf uls
Madeira wine. Serve very hot.
Baked Sweetbreads
Trim eight heart sweetbreads, soak in cold water for two
hours, parboil, press and cool between two pieces of tin. Pre-
pare a matignon of the following ingredients : Fry a few finely
sliced carrots and shallots, a little parsley and herbs in four
ounces of butter until slightly browned. Moisten with a glass
of white wine and simmer slowly for five minutes. Pour this
over the sweetbreads and let them soak for two hours, turning
them frequently. Drain the sweetbreads, wrap them in thin
slices of fat pork, fold in buttered paper, put on skewers, and
roast before a moderate fire. Remove paper and pork, glaze
nicely, and serve with a demiglaze sauce made with the ma-
tignon, a little broth, and Espagnole sauce.
Sweetbreads with Brown Sauce
Clean and soak two pairs of sweetbreads in cold water for an
hour or more, then put them in a pan with enough boiling water
to cover them, and cook them for twenty minutes. Take them
out and place them in cold water for two or three minutes to
make them firm. Dry thoroughly, rub them with a tablespoon-
ful of butter. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and place in a pan
with brown sauce. Cook in hot oven for twenty minutes.
Baste often with the sauce.
MEATS 159
Sweetbread Croquettes with Sauce
Trim and soak six good-sized sweetbreads in cold water for
three hours. Then parboil, drain, and cool. Cut in thick
slices and fry until quite dry, with two ounces of melted butter,
salt, white pepper, and a little grated nutmeg. Then place
them on a paper to drain. Put two tablespoons of finely chopped
shallots with the butter, fry a little, add one pint of cooked
mushrooms cut in very small pieces, fry a minute or two, add
one pint Allemande sauce, and the yolks of four eggs. Stir very
hard and boil one minute. Then add the sweetbreads cut in
very small pieces, some finely chopped, and a little lemon juice.
Mix well and turn into a dish to cool. When cold, shape them
in oblong pieces, dip in beaten Qgg^ then in fine bread crumbs,
then in Qgg and bread crumbs again. Fry in hot fat until a
light brown. Drain on brown paper and serve with the follow-
ing sauce in a separate sauce dish : —
One pint of veloute sauce, quite thick, one glass of white
wine, two tablespoons of beef extract. Boil five minutes. Add
two tablespoons of fine-chopped mushrooms and some chopped
parsley. Mix with the sauce without boiling.
Sweetbread Patties
Soak sweetbreads in cold water, remove the pipes and
membranes. Cook eighteen minutes in boiling salted water
with one tablespoonful of lemon juice. Then plunge in cold
water to harden. When cold, cut them in small pieces, heat
with a rich cream sauce, and serve in pastry shells or in biscuit
boxes.
Scalloped Sweetbreads
Soak four sweetbreads in cold water for two hours. Par-
boil them. When cold, trim and cut in slices. Stew them for
six minutes with one ounce of butter, one-half wine-glassful of
160 MRS. seely's cook book
white wine, one scant tablespoonful of salt, and one teaspoonful
of white pepper, and a little grated nutmeg if desired. Then
stir in one gill of thick white sauce, two sliced truffles, and four
sliced mushrooms. Fill some scallop shells with this mixture,
sprinkle with fine bread crumbs and a few bits of butter. Put
in a brisk oven. When slightly brown, remove and serve.
Sweetbread Timbale
Place one pair of large cooked sweetbreads and three
pounds of raw white meat of chicken in a mortar with the
whites of two eggs. Pound to a fine pulp. Then press
through a puree sieve. Moisten with one-half cup of Bechamel
sauce and one-half cup of cream. Beat all together until very
light. Season to taste with salt, white pepper, a dash of
cayenne, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix thoroughly. Set
away on ice until it is thoroughly chilled. Then take a small
portion, place in a buttered timbale dish, and poach for about
ten minutes. At the end of that time if not firm to the touch,
mix the beaten white of one egg to the raw mixture. If too
firm to the touch, add more cream to the raw mixture. Then
place in buttered moulds, cover with buttered paper, and poach
in oven until firm to the touch. Serve with Princess sauce or
any other to suit the taste.
Veal Kidney Pie
Select three nice veal kidneys, wash, and soak them in salted
water, then in fresh water. Chop very fine, also chop the fat
and mix with the following : The chopped yolks of four hard-
boiled eggs, a few finely chopped herbs and pieces of celery, a
dash of grated nutmeg, ground mace, cloves, and wliite pepper,
and salt to taste. Line a deep-buttered dish with puff pastry.
Mix the kidneys thoroughly with the seasoning and fill the
baking dish. Moisten with three tablespoonfuls of Sherry,
cover with a layer of pastry. Trim the edges evenly, moisten
MEATS 161
and press them together. Cut a small opening in the top of
the pie and bake. Serve while hot.
Stewed Calf's Liver
Have a piece of liver weighing one and one-half or two
pounds cut into small pieces. Cook for five minutes with one
finely chopped onion, one bruised clove of garlic, and one ounce
of butter. Season with pinch of salt and one-half pinch of
pepper. Shake the pan all the time. Then add one wine-glass
of white wine, and one gill of Espagnole sauce, and seven or
eight chopped mushrooms. Cook all for three minutes. Stir
in a teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley and serve at once.
Baked Calf's Liver with Glazed Onions
Take a calf's liver weighing about three pounds, and on the
under side make a long deep slit from the thick end to the
thinnest end. Be careful to cut it straight. Stuff into this
pouch the following mixture : Two tablespoons of chopped
parsley, one pound of cooked ham, leaving the fat on, one
medium-sized onion, one cup of bread crumbs moistened with a
little stock. Chop all these together and add two raw eggs,
one saltspoonful of black pepper, and mix thoroughly. Sew up
the pouch closely. Sprinkle the liver with one-half teaspoonful
of salt and one-half teaspoonful of pepper. Then put a few
very thin slices of fat pork over the top and put in a pan with
about one pint broth, adding to it one teaspoonful of flour
mixed thoroughly with one tablespoonful of butter. Cook
about one hour in a moderate oven. Baste four or five times.
Serve on a platter with a garnish of glazed onions round the
edge. Strain the gravy through a very fine sieve or cloth and
pour over the liver.
Glazed Onions
Peel and cook for ten minutes in plenty of boiling salted
water one pint of small white onions. Drain and dry thor-
162 MBS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
oughly. Put in a baking pan two tablespoonfuls of butter and
half a pint of broth, and place the onions so they do not touch
each other. Cover them with two tablespoons of granulated
sugar. Bake in oven for fifteen minutes. Be sure to turn
them often, so they will become evenly colored.
Fried Calf's Liver and Bacon
Cut the necessary amount of calf's liver in thin slices and
wash it in cold water. Place some thin slices of bacon in a hot
pan and cook them until they are crisp. Remove from the pan
and keep them hot. Place the pan where there is not an
intense heat, drop the slices of liver into the bacon fat, and cook
slowly — for five or six minutes or until cooked. Serve on
a hot platter and garnish with the bacon. Liver should be
cooked slowly to make it moist and wholesome.
Fried Calf's Brains
Remove the arteries and soak four calves' brains in cold
water for two hours. Put in a saucepan with water which
tastes strongly of vinegar, a few pep23ercorns, salt, a bunch of
parsley with herbs tied in it, and a sliced onion. Boil slowly
for forty minutes. Drain on a cloth. Divide each lobe in two
or more pieces. Sprinkle the pieces with dry crumbs, dip in
beaten eggs, roll in fresh white crumbs, and arrange in a frying
basket. Immerse in plenty of very Jiot fat and fry a nice color.
Drain on paper and serve. Garnish with fried parsley and
pass Tartare sauce.
Calf s Brains with Mushroom Sauce
Soak two calves' brains in cold water for half an hour,
remove the skins, wash again, drain thoroughly, then place in a
saucepan with just enough water to cover them. Add one
teaspoonful of salt, one-quarter of a cup of vinegar, and nine
MEATS 163
whole peppers. Cook about ten or fifteen minutes. Drain
and place on a hot dish.
Have the following sauce prepared: Brown eighteen or
twenty small onions in one ounce and a half of butter. When
a good color add a little flour, enough to absorb the butter.
Stir for a few minutes, then stir in one-half cupful of stock and
one cup of claret. Season with salt and black pepper to taste.
Set the pan where the sauce will cook slowly for half an hour.
Empty one can of mushrooms, wash them, and cut in moderately
small pieces. Mix these with the sauce and boil for ten min-
utes. Garnish the brains with the vegetables and pour the
sauce over all.
Calf's Brains a la Vinaigrette
Wash three good-sized calves' brains, remove the skins, and
then wash again. Drain thoroughly. Put them in a sauce-
pan and cover with fresh water, three small pinches of salt, half
a cup of vinegar, one carrot sliced, a dozen whole peppers, sprig
of thyme, and one bay leaf. Cook for ten minutes. Drain
thoroughly. Cut each brain in half. Serve hot on a folded
napkin on a dish with vinaigrette sauce in a sauce-boat. Gar-
nish with parsley.
Calf's Head
The butcher should first prepare the head for use. Wash
it thoroughly and remove the brains, which may be kept for
frying, as mock oysters, or may be added later. Cover with
cold water, take off the scum as the head begins to heat, and
boil it gently from one to two hours. Remove from the fire,
let it cool, and bone it entirely. Lay the boned head in a stew-
pan, replace the brains if you wish to stew them, and simmer
gently for an hour in its own gravy. Half an hour before it
is served, add a pint of mushroom buttons. If it is necessary,
thicken the gravy with a little flour or corn-starch and lay
164 MES. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
forcemeat balls round the disli in which the head is served.
Salt to taste and cayenne pepper should be added during the
stewing. If you have not the mushrooms at hand, a bunch of
sage leaves finely minced may be added instead.
Calf's Heart Roasted
Make a forcemeat of fine bread crumbs, a quarter of a pound
of beef suet chopped small, a little parsley, sweet marjoram,
pepper, salt, and if your taste finds them agreeable, lemon peel
and nutmeg. Mix these ingredients with the yolk of an egg
and place them in the heart. Tie the heart and roast, turning
it frequently. Serve with slices of lemon and melted butter
poured over it.
Fried Chops with Brown Sauce
Take eight good-sized lamb chops, — Frenched, — scrape the
meat from four of them, and spread on each side of the other
four. Roll in beaten egg and cracker crumbs and fry in deep
hot fat. In the centre of a platter of all kinds of vegetables
cut in small pieces, make a mould. Arrange the chops round
the mould and cover with a brown sauce.
Brown Sauce
One teasjDOonful of melted butter, one teaspoonful of flour,
stir over fire until a light brown. Add a little horseradish,
salt and pepper, and half a cup of stock.
Haricot of Lamb
Select a fat fore quarter of lamb, cut off the chops, and cut
the remainder in square pieces. Place the pieces in a saucepan
with five ounces of butter, cook until colored a nice brown;
drain off the fat, sprinkle in a little flour, mix well, and cook a
minute longer. Add one quart and a pint of water and one
pint of tomato sauce, season with salt, white pepper, and a
MEATS 165
grated nutmeg if so desired. Let all come to a boil. Skim
the meat from the broth and place in another saucepan. Rub
the sauce through a fine sieve over the meat. Add a bouquet,
a few carrots and turnips cut in small pieces, and eigliteen small
onions sugared and browned in butter. Boil half an hour, then
add one pint of raw potato balls. Boil slowly lialf an hour
longer. Place the saucepan at the side of the range and let it
stand for fifteen minutes. Skim off all the fat and remove the
bouquet. Dish in conical form and serve.
Hind Quarter of Spring Lamb
Select a medium-sized hind quarter of lamb. Trim the bone
and place the flank over the ribs to prevent them from being
cooked too much. Fasten all together securely. Season with
one tablespoon of salt, rubbing it over the meat. Cover it vrith
the thin fat and place it in a dripping pan with one tablespoon-
ful of water. Place in a moderate oven and roast for one hour,
basting it with its own drippings. Remove the fat, cover the
bone with paper ruffle, and serve on a hot dish. Skim the
grease from the drippings and strain it over the lamb. Serve
mint sauce with it if wished.
Curry of Lamb with Asparagus Tops
Cut three and a half pounds of shoulder of lamb in two-inch
squares. Wash thoroughly and drain. Place in a saucepan
with enough water to cover. Let them come to a boil. Drain
and wash again. Then cover them with boiling water, one and
a half tablespoonfuls of salt, three-quarters of a teaspoonful of
pepper, five small onions, and a bouquet. Let all cook and
steam for forty-five minutes. Strain the liquid into another
saucepan with one-half pint of white sauce. Stir until it boils
and then stand where it will keep warm. Beat the yolks of
four eggs and the juice of half a lemon together. Gradually
stir this into the sauce. Pour over the lamb. Also add one
166 MBS. seely's cook book
pint of asparagus tops. Do not let it boil. Serve steaming
hot with a garnish of boiled rice.
Fillets of Mutton
Prepare four fillets of mutton, removing all the sinews and
almost all the fat. Cut them in two pieces. Flatten them
and season with salt and white pepper. Melt four ounces of
butter in a saucepan, add the fillets, and fry them until they are
thoroughly cooked and a light brown. Turn them frequently.
Remove and drain on a plate. In the saucepan add one table-
spoonful of flour, one pint of broth, and a glass of Sherry.
Boil for a minute or two. Arrange the mutton alternately
with fried bread, cut the same size. Skim the grease from the
sauce, strain it, and garnish the fillets.
Roast Mutton
Select a medium-sized leg of mutton, cut off the bone and
trim it. Rub it with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with little
pieces of butter and roast in a moderate oven for one hour and
a quarter. Baste often and turn it three or four times while it
is roasting. Serve with either the strained gravy from the pan
or thickened gravy.
Roast Mutton
Select a nice breast of mutton weighing about eight pounds.
Sew it up in a piece of muslin or any thin cloth. Place it in a
kettle with enough water to cover it. Let it stew or boil very
slowly for one hour and twenty-five minutes. Remove the
cloth and place the meat in a dripping pan. Rub it well with
melted butter or drippings. Sprinkle with a little flour and roast
in oven for about half or three-quarters of an hour. Baste it often
with contents of the pan. Just before serving, sprinkle with
fine crumbs and dots of butter. Let it get a nice brown. Gar-
nish the dish with parsley. Make a sauce of the strained drip-
pings from the meat.
MEATS 167
Chops a la Signora with Sauce
Cook one tablespoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of
flour for two minutes. Add one cupful of white broth and
cook to a thick, smooth sauce. Then add one cupful of finely
cut cooked chicken, half a cup of finely cut canned mushrooms,
and, if handy, a little finely cut tongue and a little cream.
Season to taste with salt, white pepper, and, if desired, a little
grated nutmeg. Stir over the fire for five minutes. Spread
on a dish and set aside until cold. Select six nice Frenched
chops. Split them in half Avithout separating them and season
with salt and pepper. Spread a thin layer of chicken between
the two layers of each chop. Close each one, giving each chop
its original form. Dip in beaten egg^ then cover with bread
crumbs, and fry in clarified butter until a golden color and well
done. Dress them in a circle on a hot dish, arrange a curled
paper on each one, and serve with the following sauce : —
Sauce for Chops
Cook two tablespoonfuls each of finely chopped tongue and
mushrooms with two tablespoonfuls of Madeira wine until dry.
Then add one cupful of Espagnole sauce and one-half cup of
stewed, strained tomatoes. Cook five minutes and serve in sepa-
rate dish or in the centre of the chop dish. If desired, the chops
may rest on pieces of fried bread the same size as the chops.
Roast Saddle of Mutton
Trim a small saddle of Southdown mutton. Pull oiT the
thin skin and make a small cut in the fat. Remove nearly all
the suet inside, also the kidneys. Tie firmly in a neat shape
and roast in quite a hot oven for one hour and a half. Drain,
and let it stand in a warm place for ten or fifteen minutes.
Skim all the grease from the drippings, add a little flour and
stock, make a brown gravy, and serve in separate dish. Also
serve currant jelly.
168 MRS, SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Boiled Leg of Mutton
Trim a medium-sized leg of mutton, put in a kettle with one
bouquet and enough salted cold water to cover it. Boil for
one hour and a half, or until tender. Serve with caper sauce
made of plain cream sauce with capers, or Hollandaise sauce
with a handful of capers added. The sauce must be served
hot.
Mutton Stew
Remove the skin from three pounds of mutton cut from the
shoulder. Cut the fat from it, place in a saucepan, and cook it
until there is about five tablespoonfuls of liquid. Remove the
fat and add one scant quart of sliced onion. Cover and place
where it will cook slowly for one hour. Occasionally stir it.
Then stir in one tablespoonful of flour and the mutton cut
in small pieces. Cook until it is slightly browned, and then
add one quart of boiling water, three teaspoonfuls of salt,
one teaspoonful of pepper. Let it simmer for one hour and
three-quarters, then add one quart of sliced raw potato
and one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley. Simmer
for half an hour longer, or until the meat and potatoes are
tender. Add more salt and pepper, if necessary, and serve very
hot.
Devilled Mutton
Slice some undercooked mutton about one inch thick, score
it, and spread with the following mixture : One teaspoonful
of dry mustard, two teaspoonfuls of olive oil, one teaspoonful
of vinegar, and half a teaspoonful of white pepper, and a dash of
cayenne pepper. Mix thoroughly before spreading on the
meat. Place the slices on a greased broiler and cook over a
clear fire for six or seven minutes. Frequently turn the
broiler and avoid scorching the meat. Serve with maitre
d'hotel sauce.
MEATS 169
Boiled Leg of Mutton
Take a well-kept but perfectly sweet leg of mutton of mid-
dling weight, and after having washed (not soaked) it, lay it in
a kettle of its size, as nearly as possible, and pour in rather more
than sufficient cold water to cover it. Set the kettle over a
good fire, and when the water begins to boil take off the scum,
and continue to till no more appears. After the first skimming
throw in a tablespoonful of salt, and after the water is well
cleared, add two medium-sized onions stuck with a dozen
cloves and a bundle or bouquet of parsley, thyme, and savory,
four or five large carrots, and a half an hour afterward as
many turnips. Draw the kettle to a spot on the range where
the mutton wall simmer gently for two hours and a half from
the time it first begins to boil. If stewed gently, the mutton
will be found excellent. If hurried, it will be like the unpala-
table, hard, and ragged fast-boiled meat sent up by ignorant
and tasteless cooks and served by inexperienced housekeepers.
Boiled mutton should be served with caper sauce or brown
cucumber sauce or oyster sauce. From the liquor in which the
mutton is boiled excellent soup may be made.
Plain Boiled Mutton
Cover with cold water and skim when the pot has come to a
boil. Salt the water to taste. Boil gently until very tender.
Add three or four whole onions.
Mutton Pilau
Boil rice till the kernels are quite done and yet unbroken.
Cut cold boiled mutton in pieces an inch square, fry in butter,
and season with salt, pepper, a few cardamons, a little onion,
and chopped mint. After the mixture has simmered half an
hour, add a little of the boiled rice and continue the cooking
fifteen or twenty minutes. The gravy formed by the butter,
170 MRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
seasoning, and rice should slightly flavor the browned mutton.
Serve by laying some of the boiled rice on a dish and laying on
it mutton and gravy, then putting on another layer of rice and
upon this pouring mutton and gravy.
Mutton Cromeskies
Prepare the cold mutton by mincing it and seasoning it with
salt, pepper, and thyme and parsley, or chopped onion, if you
wish. Lay a little of the mince upon some slices of bacon cut
very thin. Roll the bacon tightly and neatly round the mutton
so that none may escape and tie the pieces round with fine
twine. Dip each of the cromeskies in a frying batter and then
drop them in deep, hot fat and fry to a delicate brown. Lay
them round the edges of a dish piled in mountain form with
plain boiled rice or mashed potato and garnished with tiny trees
of parsley stuck in the sides.
Cold Roast Leg of Mutton
When a few slices have been cut from the joint, it will still
afford a fillet of tolerable size, which may be dressed into a more
savory dish than hash or mince. To do this, take off as much
of the large end of the leg as will make that side of the fillet
perfectly flat, cut also evenly through the joint where it has
been carved. Now bone the fillet and place in the cavity veal
forcemeat. Put the meat with the bones and trimmings into a
kettle and cover them with water, or with broth if you have
any stock at hand. As soon as it begins to boil, add a couple
of onions, a bunch of parsley, two or three bay leaves, four or
five carrots and turnips — plenty of vegetables, in fact. Let
the whole simmer gently for a couple of hours. Serve the
meat with the vegetables round it, and, if you wish, thicken the
gravy. Some pungent or spicy sauce, which your taste tells
you is in harmony with the dish, may also be added.
MEATS 171
Loin of Mutton dressed like Venison
Skin and bone a loin of mutton and lay it in a braising pan
with a pint of water, a large onion stuck with a dozen cloves,
half a pint of Port wine, and a spoonful of vinegar. Add, also,
when it boils, a small bouquet of thyme and parsley ; also pepper
and salt. Let the whole stew three hours, turning the loin
often. Stew the bones in another dish and add their gravy to
the mutton as it requires liquor. Serve moist with the gravy
in which it stews.
Boned Leg of Mutton
Have the butcher remove the bone of a nice fat leg of mutton
that has been well hung. Make a forcemeat of bread crumbs,
hard-boiled eggs, and onions chopped fine, and season with
butter, a little sage, black pepper, and some salt pork cut up in
small bits. Fill the leg with this forcemeat and bake several
hours, basting often. The bone cut from the leg may be broken
and with the trimmings of the meat boiled in the broth pot
with rice for a most nourishing and palatable broth.
Irish Stew
Cut in pieces between the joints like chops two pounds of
the scrao: of mutton. Slice three medium-sized onions in an iron
saucepan, set over the fire well covered, and let the onions fry in
their own juice, stirring and watching them that they may not
burn. When they are done, lay in the meat and add one and
a half quarts of water. Let the mixture come to a boil, and
now upon further action the success or failure of your stew
depends. Watch every minute or so till you find the spot on
the range where the mixture will just simmer, no more — sim-
mering is a slight motion, or sizzling, at one side of the sauce-
pan. Add a teaspoon of salt, a half saltspoon of pepper, and
let the meat cook two hours well covered. At the end of that
time have ready as many potatoes as you need. Skim all the
172 MRS. seely's cook book
fat from the gravy. Cut up two potatoes in thin slices. These
are to break and thicken the gravy. Then lay the others over
the meat, cutting them in two if they are large. Do not mind
if the gravy is not enough to cover the potatoes. It would be
only broth if it were to do that. They are to cook by steam.
Irish stew must always be closely covered while cooking. If
the meat is stewed carefully and slowly, it will be so tender that
you can tear it with a fork, and yet not tasteless and " done to
rags."
Real Scotch Hotch Fetch
Cut up two pounds of scrag of mutton — the scrag is best
because it is lean and carries the sweetness of the bone with its
cooking, but any other lean part may be used. Put it on the fire to
stew in one and a half pints of water and cook gently as directed
for Irish stew for an hour and a half. Then cut up small a carrot,
onion, and turnip, and add them to the meat with a teaspoon of
salt and a scant one-half ounce of pepper. Add also half a can of
fine marrowfat peas, mixing with the liquor of the peas a dessert-
spoon of flour to thicken. Half an hour before serving add the
other half of the peas. Be sure to skim off carefully all the fat
after the meat is taken up, and if the gravy seems too plentiful,
boil it down rapidly for a few minutes. In serving, lay the
mutton in the centre of a dish and let the peas and other
vegetables encircle it.
Mutton Croquettes
Have at hand one good pint of finely chopped mutton.
Season with one tablespoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of
white pepper, and one tablespoonful of lemon juice. Scald one
cup of milk, mix one tablespoonful of flour and three tablespoon-
fuls of butter together and stir in the milk. Then add the
mutton. Boil for four minutes. Stir in two well-beaten eggs.
Turn out on a platter. When cool, shape into the desired size,
roll in fine bread crumbs, then in beaten egg, and again in bread
MEATS 173
crumbs. Fry in hot fat until a nice brown. The fat for frying
should be the boiling degree of heat. If not, the croquettes will
break open and absorb the grease.
Broiled Lamb's Kidneys
Skin, trim, and split lengthwise one dozen kidneys. Put
them in a dish and season with salt, pepper, and sweet oil.
Then put them on skewers — if not silver, have them bright
and fresh-looking. Run the skewer through the centre of the
two kidneys; do not separate them. Roll in fine bread crumbs
and broil over a moderate fire for five minutes. Serve on a
folded napkin with a thick brown sauce seasoned with Madeira
in a separate dish.
Devilled Lamb's Kidneys
Prepare the kidneys the same as for broiling, and broil them
for a minute or two on each side. Remove from the fire. Roll
them well in English mustard paste which is seasoned with salt,
a little white pepper, and a dash of cayenne. Then roll again
in fine bread crumbs. Return them to the fire and broil four
of five minutes longer. Serve with maitre d'hotel sauce poured
over them.
Baked Pork and Beans
Soak one quart of white beans in cold water for twelve
hours. Then put them in a pan with four quarts of cold water.
Let them come to a boil and add salt, white pepper to taste, a
white onion with two whole cloves stuck in it, one carrot, a
bunch of parsley, and a four-pound piece of salt pork — a streak
of fat and a streak of lean. Before adding the pork, soak it for
two hours in tepid water. Boil all slowly for two hours. Take
the pork out and let it drain. Also remove the onion, carrots,
and parsley. Strain off the liquid from the beans. Pour them
into a hollow baking dish — an earthen one is the better — with
two tablespoonfuls of molasses over them. Score the fatty
174 MBS. seely's cook book
side of the pork. Press it down in the centre of the beans.
Bake one hour in a moderate oven. Occasionally baste the pork
with the gravy from the beans. Serve in the baking dish.
Have it either hot or cold.
Boiled Ham
Soak the ham twenty-four hours, or more if large, or dry
and hard. Put it in cold water and set on the back of the
stove with a few soup vegetables or herbs. Cook very gently
from eight to ten hours. The ham should stay on the stove four
or five hours before it really starts to cook. It should then
simmer very gently. Take up the ham ; and if you have time,
let it get cold. Remove the skin, trim neatly, and put it on to
braise for one hour in Sherry or Champagne. Take up, bake
about thirty minutes, and serve with red currant jelly on the
top.
Baked Ham with Hot Sauce
Remove the thigh-bone of the ham and let it soak in cold
water for twenty-four hours before cooking. Then put it in
a boiler and boil gradually for three hours. Take it out and
remove the rind. Place it in a tightly covered pan with a few
carrots, onions, blade of mace, whole cloves, allspice, bay leaf,
and one bunch of cooking celery, and add about four quarts of
stock or water. Place the pan in the oven and be careful that
your lid fits closely. Let the ham steam slowly for three hours.
Remove it from the oven and let it cool in the liquor. If the
ham is served hot, send it to the table as soon as taken from
the oven. The above is for a ham weighing from eighteen to
twenty pounds.
Hot Sauce for Baked Ham
Brown a little flour and butter in the oven until it becomes
rather a dark brown. Then remove all the fat from the stock
in which the ham was cooked. Strain it and add the browned
BOXED HAM.
Facing page 17U.
SMALL MOULDS FOR HAM OR CHICKEN MOUSSE.
(See p. 176.)
MEATS 175
butter and flour. Stir well and boil it down, adding a little
pepper. Strain the sauce again before serving. Just before
sending to the table add a little Sherry or Champagne.
Ham Boiled in Cider
Wash well a fine ham. Soak it over night in clear spring
water, and in the morning set it to boil in a kettle of hot cider.
The kettle should be porcelain, so that the acid of the cider will
not eat the metal and give a metallic taste to the meat. Boil
slowly five to eight hours, that is, until the ham is thoroughly
cooked, and set to cool in the liquid in which it is boiled.
The cider flavor is finer if a barrel of cider is left out doors
to freeze, and after it is about half frozen through the heart of
the cider is drawn off for this boiling. This was done for hams
used at a supper given by a lawyer to forty or fifty friends.
Some of these men were gourmets, and they all marvelled at
the " Champagne taste " of the delicious meat. A small bag of
spices — cloves, mace, cinnamon — thrown in the boiling cider
gives added flavor.
Boiled Ham a la Chamberlin
Put the ham in a tub of cold water, fleshy part downward,
skin part up, the night before boiling. Next morning put the
ham in a large kettle or pot of cold water to boil. Let the
water get hot gradually and continue to cook the ham in a
slow boil scarcely more than a simmer. At the end of five
hours take the ham out, throw the water out of the pot, and
fill it with fresh cold water. Put the ham back immediately
and let it simmer or boil slowly five hours more. Then add,
according to the money you wish to spend, a gallon of vinegar,
or a gallon of claret, or Burgundy, or Champagne, then simmer
or boil for three hours more. Then take the ham off, skin it,
and put in a cool place; to prevent the ham from tearing, it is
always safe to sew a piece of cotton cloth tightly round the
176 MBS. seely's cook book
ham so as to fit it as close as a glove. This will keep the meat
firm and guard against the neglect of the cook in letting the
water boil too fast.
Virginia Ham
Put the ham in bucket of tepid water and allow it to stand
all night. In morning put in pot of cold water and allow it
to come to simmer, not boiling, and stew five hours. If wine
flavor is wished, make a boiling mixture of one quart of Cham-
pagne, one quart of Burgundy, a pinch of mace, and a pinch of
cloves. Let the ham stand, after taking it off the stove, in its
juice twenty-four hours.
Ham Mousse
Cut a slice of raw ham in pieces, rejecting all fat, and put
it in cold water for two hours, changing the water quite often.
Then drain, dry in a clean towel. Scrape with a sharp knife.
Put through a very fine puree sieve. Take the breast of a
nice roasted chicken, scrape that also, and put through a sieve.
Then weigh chicken, also the ham. There should be four
ounces of each, good weight. Put both in wooden bowl, and
with a potato masher pound them to a paste. Whip the whites
of two eggs and work in with the masher. Set to cool. Make
a sauce of one tablespoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of
flour. Let both boil, and then add one cup of well-seasoned
chicken broth, in which one onion, carrot, celery, whole pepper,
and blade of mace have been cooked. Add one-half teaspoon-
ful of salt, one-fourth teaspoon of pepper, a pinch of cayenne,
and the yolks of two eggs whipped with a tablespoonful of
cream. Set aside to cool. When cold, add it to the meat.
Whip half a pint of cream and add to the mixture. Care must
be taken not to whip your cream too much; it may separate.
Be sure you have it well flavored before you add the cream.
Set in the ice-box a few minutes. Decorate your mould, and be
MEATS 177
sure it is well buttered so that the decorations stick to it, then
put on ice to harden. When well chilled, put in your force-
meat, giving the mould a few knocks on the table to settle the
forcemeat to get it even so that it will not break when dished.
Thirty minutes before serving, put your mould in pan of hot
water. Put buttered paper over it, and poach until it is firm
to the touch. Serve with princess sauce.
This mousse may be served hot or cold. It can be done
with all chicken or all ham, according to the taste. Be sure
you weigh and measure correctly. Measure your half-pint of
cream before you whip it.
Sucking Pig a la Russe with Horseradish Sauce
Boil a fat sucking pig in a soup you have made of vegeta-
bles. To make the soup, use vegetables such as usually go to
the making of vegetable soup, — carrots, turnips, etc., — a season-
ing of onion, not forgetting a bouquet of majoram, thyme, sum-
mer savory, etc. Vinegar should be added to the broth, and
therefore a porcelain kettle had best be used. When the pig is
thoroughly cooked — its tenderness is tested by a skewer or
fork — carve it, sprinkle with parsley, pour the horseradish
sauce given below over it, and serve.
Horseradish Sauce
Grate the horseradish, fry in butter mixed with a little
bouillon, add several tablespoons of rich cream, and cook until
tender. Set off the stove, add the yolks of a couple of eggs,
warm again, but do not boil.
This delicious sauce is, in Russia, also often served with
corned beef and beef au naturel.
Roast Pig
Select a pig about three weeks old. After it is thoroughly
cleaned, washed, and dried, rub the inside with one teaspoonful
178 3£RS. seely's jjook book
of salt. Fill it with bread forcemeat and sew up the open-
ing. Press the fore feet forward and the hind feet backward.
Skewer them in position, and place in a pan. Rub the entire
body with melted butter, dredge it with salt and a little white
pepper. Cover the ears and tail with buttered paper to keep
them from crisping, and place a piece of wood in the mouth to
keep it open. Bake in a moderate oven for three hours and
a half, basting it frequently with melted butter. About one-
half hour before it is thoroughly cooked remove the buttered
paper that the ears and tail may become brown. When cooked
arrange on a platter, place a red apple or a piece of lemon in
the mouth, and serve with ajDple sauce.
Roast Pork
Select four pounds of the loin of pork. Rub well with two
tablespoonfuls of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper. Let it
stand for two or three hours. Place it in a pan with a half cup
of water, and roast in a moderate oven for two hours. Baste
often with the drippings. When done, the meat should be
almost white. Serve on a hot platter, with apple sauce in a
separate dish. Make a thick gravy with the contents of drip-
ping pan. Strain and serve in a sauce-boat.
Crown of Pork
Trim and shape ten or twelve pork chops into a crown.
Fill the centre with a mixture of sausage meat and bread
crumbs moistened with Qgg. Roast in a moderate oven for
one hour and three-quarters. Fry in butter fifty whole, small
onions until a light brown, then cook them in stock until ten-
der. Place some in the centre of the pork, the rest used for a
garnish. Serve with Espagnole sauce.
Indiana Mock Goose
Parboil a leg of pork and take off the skin. Put it in the
oven to roast with a little water in the pan, and baste often
MEATS 179
with a mixture of butter, minced or powdered sage, pepper,
salt, bread crumbs rubbed fine, and finely minced onion. A
goose stuffing may be inserted under the knuckle skin, and the
dish may be garnished with balls of fried stuffing. Serve with
sour apple sauce or with gooseberry jam a little sweetened.
Mock Duck
Have your butcher split lengthwise a pork tenderloin.
Make for it the same stuffing you would make for duck. Sew
the tenderloin together, enclosing the stuffing, and roast, bast-
ing frequently. Before serving draw out the thread, and send
to the table garnished with quarters of apple cooked without
sugar.
Walnut Croquettes
Stir in a double boiler a pint of bread crumbs, with enough
milk to make a thick smooth batter, and add a teaspoon of salt
and a full cup and a half of chopped walnuts. Moisten witli a
couple of tablespoons of brandy or Sherry, and stir in the well-
beaten yolks of four eggs. Take the mixture from the fire and
let it get cold, then form croquettes. Dip them in egg^ and
then in bread crumbs, and fry in deep hot fat. Serve with any
sauce to your taste.
CHAPTER VII
POULTRY AND GAME
Chicken Gumbo
Cut two cliickens in pieces and fry until a delicate brown
in half a cupful of salt pork fat, — obtained by frying half a
pound of salt pork slowly. When the chicken is cooked, take
it up and put it into a large stewpan. Into the fat in which
the chicken was fried put a large onion cut in thin slices and
fry slowly for ten minutes. Then add one quart of okra, cut
fine, five sliced tomatoes, and two sprigs of parsley. Fry all
these ingredients rather slowly for one-half an hour, then add
them to the fried chicken. Pour into the dish a pint and a half
of boiling water and season with one-half teaspoonful of pepper
and two scant tablespooiifuls of salt. Stew slowly for two
hours. Then add a cupful of cream and one cup of boiled
rice. Taste, to be sure there is enough seasoning, and if tliere
is, boil up once and serve. When fresh okra cannot be obtained,
one can of the article may be substituted. The chicken may
be a year or more old. A dash of cayenne instead of white
pepper may be used.
Marinade of Chicken
Take two medium -sized boiled chickens, when cold cut
them up, remove the skin, and place them in a hollow dish with
salt, pepper, a sliced onion, chopped parsley, two glasses of oil,
and the juice of two lemons. Mix them well and let them
steep for one hour. Fifteen minutes before serving, drain;
then dip each piece in a flour batter and drop them one by one
180
POULTRY AND GAME 181
in deep hot fat. Give them a nice color, drain on brown
paper, sprinkle a little salt over them. Dish on a folded nap-
kin, surrounded with fried parsley, and serve with a bowl of
tomato sauce.
Flour Batter for Marinade
One-half pound sifted flour, yolks of three eggs, and cold
water to desired thickness. Beat the whites of tlie eggs to a
stiff froth and thoroughly mix with the batter.
Ballottines of Legs of Fowls
Cut open eight fowls' legs, remove all the bones and sinews.
Spread the meat on the table, season Avith pepper and salt, and
place a tablespoonful of forcemeat, seasoned with herbs, in the
centre of each. Sew them in an oblong or oval shape. Place
a few slices of onion, carrot, and celery in a stewpan, arrange
the ballottines on them and cover with thin slices of fat bacon.
Moisten them half their height with broth, cover with greased
paper, place the cover on the pan, and cook them slowly in the
oven for half an hour. Baste them frequently. When cooked,
remove, and put them in press between two dishes until they
are cold. Trim them and place in a saucepan with a little
broth and cover with greased paper ; let them simmer slowly
in the oven for fifteen minutes. Cover them with a glaze, dish
them in a circle, with a braised lettuce between each one. Fill
the centre with a jardiniere of vegetables. Pour Espagnole
sauce around the entree and serve.
Fried Chicken with Cream Sauce
Singe, draw, and cut two tender chickens in quarters.
Crack the main bones, flatten slightly, and put in a saucepan
with five ounces of melted butter, a little salt, and white pep-
per. Cover, place over a brisk fire, and fry a light brown on
each side. Drain off most of the butter, sprinkle with one
ounce of well-sifted flour, mix Avell, and add one and one-half
182 MRS. seelt's cook book
pints of cream ; cover and boil ten minutes. Remove the
chicken and to the sauce add two small pats of butter and the
juice of half a lemon. Pour this over the chicken, sprinkle
with chopped parsley, and serve very hot.
Chicken Croquettes
Chop and pound to a powder one cup of cold chicken — the
white meat. Season with salt, celery salt, and cayenne. Add
one cup of thick cream sauce, or more if the thickening will
absorb it. Set away to cool. Then shape the chicken in the
form you wish, roll the croquettes in fine bread crumbs, then
in beaten egg^ then in bread crumbs, and fry in deep hot fat.
Chicken Cromeskies
To a tablespoon of butter in a frying pan add a teacup of
milk thickened with a tablespoon of flour. To this add a large
cup of minced chicken, seasoned with minced mushrooms and
parsley, a teaspoon of finely minced onion, and a little salt, and
let the whole cook up. Take slices of a boiled ham or slices of
uncooked bacon, roll portions of the chicken mixture in them,
fixing each piece with a skewer or tying each about with fine
twine. Dip in a frying batter or in the white of an egg and
fry in deep hot fat. Garnish with sprigs of parsley and serve
hot. If mushrooms are not at hand, a little catsup may be used
instead.
Chicken a la Marengo
Singe, wash, and dry thoroughly two good-sized fat and
tender chickens. Cut them up as for fricassee. Put the pieces
in a pan with two ounces of butter and one gill of olive oil,
salt, white pepper, a dash of cayenne, and a little grated nut-
meg. Fry over a brisk fire until slightly brown on both sides.
Drain off part of the fat, add a tablespoonful of chopped shal-
lots, one-fourth cup sliced mushrooms, and a bruised clove of
garlic. Fry three minutes longer, then stir in half a pint of
POULTRY AND GAME 183
tomato sauce, half a pint of Espagnole sauce, two wine-glasses
of Sherry, and a little broth. Cover and let all simmer gently
for fifteen minutes. Dish in pyramid form. Fry separately, in
very hot sweet oil, eight eggs, a delicate brown and soft. Drain
them on cloth, place them round the chicken, and serve.
Poulade a la Royale
Drain, singe, and bone a nice young fowl and stuff it with the
following forcemeat : One sweetbread minced fine and rubbed
through a sieve. Two ounces of raw veal also rubbed through
a sieve, two ounces of raw ham also rubbed through a sieve, four
mushrooms pounded well and put through a sieve. Put all in
a mortar and pound to a pulp. Mix with the whites of two eggs.
Make a sauce of the following : Melt one ounce of butter
in saucepan, add a teaspoonful of chopped onion and let it
boil for two minutes, then add one ounce of flour and let it
come to a boil. Add half a pint of chicken broth, half a tea-
spoonful of salt, one-quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, a pinch
of cayenne. Let it boil five minutes. Whip the yolks of two
eggs with two tablespoonfuls of cream. Put the sauce in a
double boiler, add eggs and cream. Do not let it boil, but
continue stirring until it gets thick. Remove at once and set
away to cool. When cold, add it to the forcemeat. Draw
inside the legs and wings of the fowl, put the forcemeat in the
centre of it, sew up the back, giving it its full shape and allow-
ing room for the forcemeat to swell. Put the fowl in a kettle
and braise it one hour. Then put it in the oven to brown. Serve
with a puree of chestnuts in a plain border or in rosettes round
the dish. Also serve a rich brown sauce with it.
Fricassee a la Dauphine
Prepare and cook a chicken for a fricassee. Trim the pieces
and place them on a dish. Reduce the stock or sauce to the
consistency of Allemande sauce, add a liaison of four eggs,
184 3fRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
butter, and cream. When this is thoroughly mixed, strain it
through a wet cloth. Dip each of the pieces of chicken in it
and replace them on the dish. When the sauce has become
set, roll the pieces in fine bread crumbs, then in beaten egg^
and again in fine bread crumbs. Arrange in frying basket and
fry in deep hot lard until a light brown. When done, drain
on brown paper. Arrange them on a napkin. Garnish with
fried parsley. Serve with white Italienne sauce in a separate
dish, or else arrange on a platter without the napkin and pour
Bechamel or Allemande sauce over them.
Chicken Curry-
Select a tender chicken weighing about three or four pounds.
After singeing and cleaning, wash well and soak it in cold water
for ten minutes. Drain and cut into square pieces. Put the
pieces into a saucepan with enough hot water to cover them.
Add two pinches of salt, one of white pepper, a little grated
nutmeg, a bouquet, and six small, white onions. Cook over a
moderate fire for forty-five minutes, keeping it well skimmed.
Drain off the broth and set the saucepan where the chicken
will keep warm. Put half a pint of white sauce — butter and
flour — in a saucepan with all the broth and mix thoroughly.
Take one tablespoonful of curry which is blended with water,
the yolks of four eggs, and the juice of half a lemon. Beat all
together thoroughly and gradually stir it into the sauce. Do
not let it boil. Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve
immediately. Garnish the dish with a border of boiled rice.
Boned Broiled Chicken with Mushroom Sauce
Bone three young chickens, each weighing one and one-half
pounds. Season with salt, pepper, and a little lemon juice,
and put in a cool place until wanted. Peel one pound of
mushrooms and quarter them. Make a sauce of the following:
Melt one tablespoonful of butter, add one tablespoonful of
BOXED CHICKEN.
Facing page 18k.
^^##t#^
CHICKEN TIMBALE.
CSge p. 102.)
POULTRY AND GAME 185
flour, and let the mixture come to a boil, and then add half a
pint of clear, rich consomme. When it boils, add mushrooms;
let them simmer five minutes, and then add half a cup of rich
cream. Broil your chickens, brush them over with melted
butter, and set them in a pan in the oven to keep hot. Have
some nice pieces of toast, cut the chickens in halves, and put
them on the toast around the platter. Put the mushrooms and
sauce in the centre. Serve very hot. Garnish with parsley.
Fricassee of Chicken with Mushrooms
Select two good-sized plump chickens. After they have
been drawn, singe them and cut them up in small members or
joints in the following manner: First remove the wings at the
second joint and the legs at the knotty bend of the first joint;
then take hold of the chicken with the left hand, and, with a
sharp knife in the right, make two parallel cuts lengthwise on
the back about an inch and a half apart, so as partly to detach,
or at least mark out where the legs and wings are to be
removed; cut both legs and fillets, then remove the thigh bone;
separate the back and breast, trim these, then cut the back
across in two pieces. Steep the pieces in a pan of tepid water
for ten or fifteen minutes. Occasionally squeeze each piece, so
as to extract the blood. Next sprinkle the bottom of a sauce-
pan with thin slices of onion and carrot, a little celery, three
cloves, twelve peppercorns, a blade of mace, and a bouquet.
Place the pieces of chicken in close and neat order upon the
vegetables. Moisten with a quart of boiling broth — if not at
hand, water will do. Let them boil gently for half an hour,
or until sufficiently tender. Keep the pan covered, so they
will steam as well as boil. Remove the pieces with a skimmer,
drain, and then plunge in cold water. Wash and drain them
upon a cloth. Trim and place them in a saucepan and set
away in a cool place. Strain the broth the chickens were
cooked in. Melt two ounces of butter in saucepan and stir in
186 MRS, seelt's cook book
two ounces of flour. Stir over the fire for tliree minutes, but
do not let it brown. Remove from the range and stir in the
chicken broth. Mix together until it is a smooth sauce. Add
the mushroom trimmings, that is, the stems. Stir the sauce
over the fire until it boils, then set it where it will boil slowly
for half an hour. When it has boiled the full length of time,
skim it thoroughly, and then continue boiling until it becomes
the proper thickness. Then stir into it a liaison of four eggs,
mixed with a little butter and a little cream. In making a
liaison, you use twice as much water as you have Qgg yolks —
the butter keeps it from curdling the sauce. Stir over the fire
until it nearly boils, then strain it through a wet cloth. Pour
over the chicken which is in the saucepan and add half a
bottle of button mushrooms. Heat thoroughly, but do not let
it boil. Dish it up as follows: First, put the pieces of the
back in the centre of the dish, place the legs at the angles, the
bones pointed inwardly. Next place the fillets upon these, then
set the pieces of breast on top. Pour the sauce over the
chicken. Arrange the mushrooms in groups, and surround all
with eight or ten glazed croutons.
Boiled Chicken and Tongue
Draw and truss two young chickens and rub them thor-
oughly with the juice of one lemon. Tie two or three slices of
fat pork or bacon over the breast and wrap them up in a
nicely floured cloth. Place them in a stewpan with one quart
of consomme. Bring them to a boil and then let them simmer
gently until done. Do not let them boil an}^ longer than is
necessary. To test: Try the wings with a fork. Let them
stand in the pot for fifteen minutes. Have a nice beef tongue
boiled tender. Let this also stand in its liquor. Have some
fine spinach rubbed through a puree sieve, seasoned well with
pepper, salt, butter, and two tablespoonfuls of cream. Heat it
thoroughly and let it stand in the saucepan. Set your boiled
POULTRY AND GAME 187
fowl in the centre of a platter and put the spinach around it.
Cut the tongue in the shape of cutlets and lay tlie pieces on
top of the spinach around the platter. Make a sauce of the
stock in which the chicken was cooked. To make the sauce,
melt one tablespoonful of butter. When it comes to a boil,
add one tablespoonful of flour. Let this come to a boil and
then add one cup and a half of stock. Boil five minutes,
season to taste, and add one glass of Madeira wine. Pour
some of the sauce over the chicken. Serve the rest in a sauce-
boat. The chickens may be carved before you dish them,
placing them together on the platter, or they may be sent to
the table whole.
Creamed Chicken
Clean and cut up in neat pieces two chickens or fowls.
Put them on to boil. Before they are done, pare enough pota-
toes to go nicely with the chickens. Cut them in pieces not
more than two and a half inches in diameter, lay them on the
chicken, and let them boil until done. Then take up the pota-
toes in a dish by themselves. Pour a pint (or, if washed, more)
of sweet cream over the chickens. Let it heat and then
thicken with a scant tablespoonful of flour dissolved in a small
half cup of milk. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and fresh
butter. If the cream is not rich, more butter will be required.
Chicken Canapes
Cut the meat of a cold chicken in pieces as for chicken
salad. Heat in a double boiler a cup and a half of rich milk
and in this stir a tablespoonful of corn-starch, rubbed smooth,
with the same quantity of butter, half a teaspoon of minced
onion and of minced parsley, and salt and white pepper to
taste. In this sauce simmer the chicken about ten minutes,
and serve on slices of bread toasted or fried in hot fat, or
dipped in butter and browned in the oven. Stick in each bit
of bread a tree or two of parsley.
188 MBS. seelt's cook book
Walled Chicken
This dish is made of one large fowl, or two rather small
ones, eight medium-sized potatoes, two eggs, four tablespoon-
fuls of butter, half a cupful of hot milk, three cups of chicken
stock, — the water in which the chicken was boiled, — one table-
spoonful of finely chopped onion, one sprig of parsle}^ one slice
of carrot, one bay leaf, two generous tablespoonfuls of flour,
salt and pepper to suit the taste. It is best to boil the fowl
the day before it is to be used. In doing this, clean it and put
it in a saucepan, breast down. Cover with boiling water.
When it commences to boil, skim it, and set the kettle back on
the stove where the chicken will simply simmer until tender —
from two hours and a half to three hours. Set the fowl away
to cool in the water in which it was boiled. When cool, free
it from skin and bone, and cut it in pieces suitable for serving.
Season with salt and white pepper. Fifty minutes before
serving time peel the potatoes, put in a saucepan, and cover
them with boiling water. When they have been cooking for
fifteen minutes, prepare the chicken in the following manner :
Put three tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying pan with the
vegetables and herbs. Cook slowly for five minutes, then add
the flour. Stir until smooth and frothy, but not long enough to
permit it to get brown. Gradually add the cold chicken stock,
stirring all the time. When the liquor boils up, add one-eighth
of a teaspoonful of pepper and one teaspoonful of salt, and
simmer for five minutes. Put the seasoned chicken in a sauce-
pan, strain the sauce over it, cover and simmer for ten minutes,
then set where it will keep hot until serving time. When the
potatoes are cooked, pour off all the water. Place the milk in
a saucepan on the range, mash the potatoes until smooth and
light, then add the milk, one tablespoonful of butter, and a
teaspoonful of salt. Beat the w^hites of the eggs to a stiff
froth and stir into the mixture. Have a stone platter very
POULTRY AND GAME 189
hot, arrange the mashed potato as a border around the centre
of the dish. Beat the yolks of the eggs with two tablespoon-
fuls of water. Spread it over the potato and phice in the oven
for ten minutes. At the end of that time pour the chicken
into the centre of the border. Garnish with bits of parsley.
Any kind of cold meat, poultry, game, or fish may be served
in this manner.
Jellied Chicken
Select a chicken or fowl weighing three pounds after it has
been cleaned. Also have one-third of a box of gelatine, one
slice of onion, one slice of carrot, one bay leaf, one whole clove,
some hot and cold water, and salt and pepper in quantities to
be determined by one's own taste. Wash the fowl, put it into
a deep stewpan with boiling water to cover it. Let the water
again come to a boil, then skim carefully, and set the pan where
the water will only bubble until the meat becomes tender.
When the fowl becomes tender, take it from the water and set
away to cool ; also set the water where it will cool. Soak the
gelatine in one gill of cold water for two hours. When the
chicken liquor has become cold, skim it and pour one pint and
a half of it in a saucepan with the clove, carrot, onion, and bay
leaf. Let them simmer for ten minutes, then add a grain of
cayenne and a level spoonful of salt and the soaked gelatine.
After straining this liquid through a cloth, pour a thin layer
into a mould, and set away to harden. Free the cold fowl of
skin, fat, and bones, and cut in thin strips, season well with
salt and pepper, lay them in the mould. When the jelly
hardens, pour the liquid jelly over the meat and again set the
mould away. At serving time, dip it in warm water and turn
out on a flat dish. Jellied chicken may be made of the remains
of cold roast chicken or turkey or boiled fowl. When there is
no stock on hand, the bones of the chicken should be covered
with water and simmered for several hours in order to obtain a
supply.
190 MRS.
Pressed Chicken
Singe and clean a medium-sized chicken. Disjoint it and
put it in a saucepan with hardly enough water to cover it. Boil
until the meat slips away from the bones and the gristly parts
are soft. While hot, remove the skin and separate the meat
into medium-sized pieces. Mix the white and dark meat to-
gether. Skim the grease from the broth the chicken was boiled
in. Season with salt, white pepper, lemon juice, and celery salt.
Boil until it is reduced one-half. Strain to free it from the bones,
and mix with the meat. Butter a mould and decorate the
bottom and sides with hard-boiled egg and thin slices of lemon.
Pack the meat, press it down, and put weight on top. Keep in
a cold place until wanted. Unmould and serve with a garnish
of quartered lemons and parsley.
Galantine of Chicken
Clean and split a nice chicken down the back, bone it, and
remove the legs and wings. Spread it flat on the table and fill
with the following forcemeat: Take one pound of fat fresh pork
and two pounds of veal and the meat from the chicken legs and
wings. Scrape and pound in a mortar, then rub through a
puree sieve. Add the whites of two eggs and season with salt,
white pepper, and a little grated nutmeg. Have at hand some
nice thin strips of bacon, the same length as the chicken ; also
have boiled tongue cut in the same manner, and some truffles
cut in small pieces. Spread the chicken with a layer of force-
meat, then a layer of bacon, and then a layer of tongue. Sprinkle
with pieces of truffle. When the chicken is refilled, fold it and
sew up the back. Wrap it in a clean cloth and tie at both ends.
Place in a pan and cover with good stock. Add two carrots,
two onions, a little celery, and a little thyme; also the bones of
the chicken. Boil slowly for two hours and let it cool in the
stock. Take three pints of the stock the chicken was cooked in,
POULTRY AND GAME 191
add one box of Cox's gelatine which has previously been dis-
solved, and one egg. Mix thoroughly and stir over the fire
until it comes to a boil. Strain through a wet cloth. Cover
the bottom of a mould with the liquid. When it becomes hard,
garnish with egg and truffles cut in fancy shapes, then place
the chicken in the mould, pour in a little more of the liquid.
When the chicken is firm, fill the mould and place on ice until
served. Unmould on a dish and garnish with the jelly cut in
small dice or chopped.
Terrapin Chicken
Cut one quart of cold cooked chicken in very small pieces
and mix with two chicken livers and three hard-boiled eggs
chopped rather coarse. Sprinkle all with one level teaspoonful
of salt, one-third of a teaspoonful of pepper, and a dash of grated
nutmeg. Put three tablespoonfuls of butter in a pan. After it
has melted, add two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir until the
mixture is smooth. Set the pan where there is less heat and
gradually add one cupful of chicken stock. Place it over a
quick fire and stir constantly for three or four minutes. Then
from one cupful of cream remove four tablespoonfuls, stir the
rest into the mixture. Then add the chicken, etc., and cook all
together slowly for ten minutes. Beat the yolks of two eggs,
add the four tablespoonfuls of cream, and stir into the saucepan.
Stir for a minute. At the end of that time remove the pan from
the fire, stir in four tablespoonfuls of Sherry and one table-
spoonful of lemon juice. Mix thoroughly and serve at once.
Chicken and Rice Pie
Select a fowl weighing about five pounds. Clean and wash
it thoroughly. Cut into joints and put in a stewpan with
three pints of boiling water, one slice of onion, one slice of
carrot, and two whole cloves. Let it simmer until tender. It
ought to cook tender in one hour and a half if you select a
192 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
young fowl. If it is tough, it may take three hours before it
cooks tender. When it is cooked, add one-half teaspoonful
of white pepper and two teaspoonfuls of salt. Set aside until
time for cooking with rice. Wash and pick over one cup and
a half of rice. Drain and put it on to cook with three quarts
of boiling water. When it has been cooked for ten minutes
add two level teaspoonfuls of salt. Cook ten minutes longer,
and then turn into a colander, and drain thoroughly. Then
mix it with one teaspoonful more of salt, two well-beaten eggs,
half a cupful of butter, and half a pint of milk. Place in a deep
baking dish a layer of chicken, then a layer of rice mixture, then
of chicken, and so on, finishing with the rice. Cover the rice
with one pint of the stock the chicken was boiled in. Bake in
a moderate oven for half an hour. Serve in the dish it was
baked in.
Chicken Pie
Singe and clean a chicken weighing about four or four and
one-half pounds. Cut into twelve pieces. Cover with water
and let them soak for thirty minutes. Wash, drain, and cover
with water, season with salt and white pepper, a bunch of pars-
ley, six small onions, and five ounces of salt pork cut in small
squares. Cook for three-quarters of an hour. Skim often.
Stir in one pint of raw potato cut in pieces and four scant
tablespoonfuls of flour blended with cold water. Stir con-
stantly until it boils, then cook it for ten minutes. Remove
the bunch of parsley. Place the rest in a deep baking dish,
moisten the edges with water, cover the top with pastry —
some prefer the puff paste. Brush over with a beaten egg.
Cut a hole in the centre. Bake in brisk oven for twenty
minutes or until the pastry is done.
Chicken Timbale
With the quantity of material that will be given below a
one-quart mould or twelve small moulds may be filled. Divide
CHICKEN TIMBALE.
Facing page 192.
TIxMBALE AXD MOUSSE MOULDS.
POULTBT AND GAME 193
the work into three parts. To make the forcemeat use the
white meat of four medium-sized uncooked chickens, one pint
of cream, one-half pint of stale bread crumbs, free of crust, six
tablespoonfuls of butter, one blade of mace, one tablespoonful
of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of white pepper, and the
whites of four eggs. Chop the chicken meat fine, put it in a
mortar, and pound it fine, then rub it through a puree sieve.
There should be one pint of the prepared meat. Mix the bread,
cream, and mace together. Cook slowly for twenty minutes.
Then remove the mace, and with a spoon work the bread and
cream to a smooth paste. Add the butter, salt, pepper, and
meat, and finally add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff
froth. Beat the mixture until it is thoroughly blended. Then
set away to cool. To make the filling use three gills of cream,
one pint of cooked chicken cut in small cubes, four tablespoon-
fuls of chopped mushrooms, one tablespoonful of flour, one heap-
ing teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of white
pepper, and one tablespoonful of chopped truffles. Reserve half
a cup of cream. Put the rest on to boil. Blend the flour with
the half cup of cream and stir into the boiling cream. Boil for
one minute, then add the chicken and other ingredients. Cook
for three minutes longer. If desired, flavor with a few drops of
onion juice. Butter the mould or moulds, and after dotting
the bottom and sides with pieces of truffle, line them with the
forcemeat, being careful to have every part well covered. The
side near the rim will require as thick a covering as any part
of the mould. Now almost fill the mould or moulds with the
chicken preparation and cover with the forcemeat, being care-
ful to put in only a little at a time, and always work from the
outer edge until the centre is reached. Be careful to have the
top smooth. If at all round it will not be steady when turned
on a dish. Place the mould in a deep pan. Pour in enough
warm water to come almost to the rim. Cover the mould with
buttered paper and bake in a moderate oven for twenty-five
194 MBS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
minutes. It must cook slowly. When quite firm to the touch,
turn on a hot dish and serve with Bechamel sauce.
Timbale a la Hyde
Boil a young fowl, take off the meat, and cut it in pieces. Take
two ounces of Parmesan cheese grated, one small shallot chopped
fine, pepper and salt, and make about half a pint of good rich
white sauce with cream and consomme, and mix with the chicken
and cheese. Add a little well-cooked and drained small maca-
roni and two sliced tomatoes. Line a mould with good paste
(six ounces of butter to eight ounces of flour or trimmings ©f
puff paste will do), put the mixture in, fold the paste over the
top, put a flat weight on, and bake about one hour. Serve with
good rich brown or white sauce.
Chicken a la Parisienne
Use the fillets of four chickens, one small can of truffles, one
can of mushrooms, eight thin slices of red tongue, the white of
one egg^ one pint of consomme, half a cupful of clarified butter,
one gill of glaze, one tablespoonful of salt, one pint of supreme
sauce, and one pint and a half of chicken liver forcemeat. Fillet
the chickens and separate the under fillets from the large ones.
Curve them all the same way. Pour three tablespoonfuls of
clarified butter into a frying pan and arrange the large fillets
in the batter, having the smooth side up, and curving them all
the same way. Sprinkle them with salt. Arrange the under
fillets in another pan with clarified butter the same way as the
larger ones. Cut two or three truflles in thin slices and with
small fancy vegetable cutters stamp out stars and various shapes.
Beat the white of the egg until well broken, but not light.
Brush a little on each of the large fillets and decorate them
with the fancy shapes of truflles. When all are done, brush
lightly with the white of the egg. Let this dry. Cover with
a sheet of buttered paper and set in cool place until time for
POULTRY AND GAMS 195
cooking. Treat the small fillets in the same way, using red
tongue in place of truffles. Put the liver forcemeat in a small
and plain buttered border mould. Set it in cool place until
time for cooking. Cut seven slices of tongue in fillet shape.
Put these in a cool place. Make some supreme sauce. Open
the mushrooms. Chop the remainder of the truffles rather fine.
Half an hour before serving put the mould of forcemeat into a
pan with water two-thirds as high as the mould. Cover with
buttered paper and place in a moderate oven. In ten minutes
open the oven door. Take the paper from the fillets and baste
them with three or four tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Re-
place the papers, arrange in pans, and place in oven with the
forcemeat. Cook twenty minutes, leaving the oven door open.
While these are cooking put the pieces of tongue into a small
stewpan with half the glaze and half a gill of consomme. Cook
for ten minutes. Reserve one gill of the supreme sauce and mix
the chopped truffles with the remainder. Strain the liquid from
mushrooms, add them to the sauce. Drain the butter from the
fillets. Remove the papers and pour half of the reserved supreme
sauce over each pan of fillets. Cook this on top of the stove for
four minutes. Do not let it boil. While this is cooking turn
the border of forcemeat on a flat dish. Pour the consomme
from the pieces of tongue. Add tlie remainder of the glaze
to them. Arrange the large fillets and the tongue alternately
around the border of forcemeat. Pour the mushrooms and sauce
in the centre and arrange the under fillets on top. Serve at once.
Roast Capon with Truffles
Select a nice, meaty capon, singe and clean it, and fill it with
truffles prepared as follows : Peel, slice, and remove the stringy
part from one quart of truffles. Let them stand in their own
juice. Melt one pound of butter with salt and pepper, three
bay leaves, two sliced shallots, a clove of garlic, and a sprig of
thyme. Stir while the butter is melting. Rub through a col-
196 MRS, SEELY'S COOK BOOK
ander over the truffles. Mix them and let them stand until
thoroughly cold. Fill the capon, make it a good shape, and
sew both ends so the truffles will not come out. Cover with
thin strips of larding pork. Wrap in a thick sheet of white
paper which is well oiled, and bake in an oven for one hour and
a half. Baste frequently with melted butter. Remove paper
and pork. Serve with a gravy made of the strained liquid the
capon was cooked in and a little broth.
Descaides, a Jewish Dish
Take the livers of chickens or any other poultry and stew
them gently in a little good gravy seasoned with a little onion,
mushrooms, pepper, and salt. When the livers are tender, mince
them on a pasteboard or in a mortar. Return them to the
saucepan and stir in the yolks of one or two eggs, according
to the quantity of liver. By the time the mixture is thick
have rounds of toast ready on a hot dish and serve the minced
liver upon the toast. Garnish with parsley.
Chicken Liver Cromeskies
Cut the chicken livers in two and season with salt and pep-
per. Fold each piece of liver in a slice of bacon, cut very thin.
Fasten with a small skewer and broil over a good fire for ten
or fifteen minutes. Serve hot on a piece of hot toast after draw-
ing out the skewers.
Calf's liver may be cooked the same way if it is especially
delicate and tender.
Roast Turkey with Oysters
Singe and clean a medium-sized tender turkey, wipe dry,
and stuff with the following mixture : Four breakfast cupfuls of
oyster cracker crumbs mixed with four breakfast cupfuls of bread
crumbs. Stir in the liquor from five dozen oysters, one-half
pound of melted butter, and two beaten eggs. Put in the oys-
BOXED TURKEY
Facing page 190.
TRUSSED TURKEY,
POULTRY AND GAME 197
ters, season to taste, and stuff the turkey. Put the mixture in
loosely so it will absorb the gravy. Wrap the turkey in a piece
of heavy white buttered paper and roast in a hot oven. Baste
it often with melted butter. About ten minutes before remov-
ing the bird from the oven take off the paper, sprinkle with
flour and salt, and baste with butter to brown it. When cooked,
place it on a hot dish. Prepare some brown sauce with the
liquid in the dripping pan. Pour some around the turkey and
serve the rest in a separate dish.
Scalloped Turkey
Remove all the meat from a cooked turkey, and chop it very
fine. Break up the frame and bones, and add the fat, skin, etc.,
and cover with cold water. Cook down slowly. Butter the
inside of a deep baking dish, put in a layer of fine bread
crumbs, then a layer of turkey, then some bits of butter and
bits of the turkey dressing, if you have any, then another layer
of bread crumbs, and so on until all is used. When you think
the bones have boiled enough, strain, and thicken with browned
flour and season to taste. Pour some into the dish. Then
thickly spread fine bread crumbs moistened to a thick paste
with the gravy over the entire dish. Cover with another dish,
and bake for thirty minutes. Remove the extra dish, and when
the top is a nice brown, serve.
Devilled Turkey Legs
Score and trim cooked turkey legs. Season them with salt
and pepper. Rub them with some mustard and oil mixed to a
paste. Broil over a clear fire. Turn often. When a nice
brown, serve with a rich brown gravy poured over them.
Virginia Boned Turkey
Have the bones carefully removed and fill with the force-
meat given under Virginia Boned Turkey Stuflfing, page 282.
198 MRS. seelt's cook book
Broiled Turkey Giblets
Clean and wash two turkey livers and cut them in medium-
sized squares. Open and clean the gizzards and cut the heart
in two lengthwise. Run a thread through them and boil for
three-quarters of an hour in enough stock to cover them. Drain,
and cut them the same size as the liver, trimming off all the
hard skin. Season them with salt and black pepper, finely
chopped parsley, and moisten all with a little olive oil. Have
ready as many squares of bacon as you have giblets. Wrap
the giblets in the bacon. Put them on skewers one after the
other, roll them in finely grated bread crumbs, put them on a
gridiron, and broil over a bright fire. Turn them often. When
nicely browned, put the skewers on a folded napkin on a dish
and serve at once.
Timbale of Turkey Livers with Bread Mixture
Clean and wash eight or nine turkey livers, put them in a
pan with one-half pound of fat pork sliced thin, a little salt
and pepper, two or three blades of mace, small tied bunch of
parsley, two or three finely chopped shallots, and three ounces
of butter. Fry carefully over a hot fire until the livers are
quite firm. Add one glass of Sherry and cook until nearly dry.
Remove the parsley and let the livers, etc., cool. Then pound
them in a mortar with one-third of the quantity of bread mixture
given below. Gradually add the yolks of eight eggs, two whole
eggs, and a ladlef ul of Espagnole sauce. Rub all through a fine
sieve. Then add one and one-half cups of white turkey meat
cut in small squares. Mix thoroughly and put in a well-but-
tered round mould. Cover with a buttered paper and place in
a saucepan with boiling water half as high as the mould. Cover
the saucepan and boil slowly for one hour. Ten minutes before
serving turn the mould on a dish and drain the liquid that may
come from it. Cover with Madeira sauce and serve.
POULTRY AND GAME 199
Bread Mixture for Timbale
Four ounces of stale white bread crumbs soaked in cold
water for ten minutes. Squeeze out dry and put in a saucepan
with two ounces of butter. Stir over the fire until the crumbs
get pasty and do not stick to pan or spoon. Stir in the yolks
of four eggs. Mix well and turn on a plate to cool. Cover
with paper well oiled.
Roast Goose stuffed with Chestnuts
Select a tender goose weighing about five pounds. Singe,
draw thoroughly, wash and dry. Stuff it with chestnuts pre-
pared as follows : Chop one shallot very fine and put it in a
saucepan with two scant tablespoonfuls of butter. Cook for
two or three minutes. Then add one-quarter of a pound of
sausage meat. Cook five minutes. Then add twelve finely
chopped mushrooms and twelve cooked chestnuts which have
been peeled and pounded in a mortar. Add one pinch of salt,
one-half pinch of white pepper, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of
powdered thyme, and a teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley.
Let all come to a boil and add one ounce of fresh bread crumbs
and twenty-four French chestnuts cooked, shelled, and whole.
Mix thoroughly, being careful to keep the chestnuts whole.
When cold, stuff the goose with this mixture. Sew both ends,
truss, and wrap in heavy white buttered paper. Roast in mod-
erate oven for one hour and a half. Baste with the drippings,
dress on a hot platter. Skim the fat from the drippings, add one
gill of white broth. Let it come to a boil. Strain into a sauce-
boat and serve. Also serve apple sauce with the above.
Baked Wild Goose
Clean and prepare the goose as for roasting and soak it in
salted water for five or six hours. Cut an onion in pieces, not
too small, and put in the inside of the goose. Sew it up and
200 MBS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
place in pan of boiling water. Let it boil twenty minutes.
Take it out, remove the onion, and stuff it with the following
forcemeat : One cup and a half of mashed potatoes, a small
head of celery chopped fine, four hard-boiled eggs, and half a
pound of salt pork also chopped very fine. One small grated
turnip, a little chopped onion, a tablespoonful of salt, one of
vinegar, and a little pepper. Moisten the mixture slightly and
stir together thoroughly. Sew up the opening, truss the goose,
and place it in a pan with a teacupful of stock. Brush it over
with melted butter, cover with greased paper, and bake in
moderate oven. When cooked, place it on platter and pour a
little mushroom sauce or celery sauce around it.
Roast Canvasback Duck
Select a fat canvasback duck. Singe, clean, and wipe
thoroughly. Rub inside lightly with a little salt. Press in the
head from the end to the back. Truss it securely. Sprinkle
with a little salt and roast in a brisk oven for eighteen minutes.
Pour in the bird about two tablespoonfuls of white broth.
Serve on a very hot dish with sliced fried hominy as a garnish.
Serve currant jelly in a separate dish. The quicker the cook-
ing the finer the flavor. Ducks should not be overcooked.
Prepare redhead ducks and mallard the same way.
Steamed Duck with Turnip
Singe, wash, and dry two medium-sized tender ducks. Place
in a pan with a little butter and roast in a hot oven for fifteen
minutes or until brown. Leave them whole and put in casse-
role or stewpan. Cut white turnip in strips one-half inch
square and two inches long, measure three pints. Scald them
with boiling water. Drain and spread them over the ducks,
then season to taste with salt and white pepper. Pour in two
cups of bouillon, cover securely, and steam in slow oven for two
POULTRY AND GAME 201
hours. Remove the duck to a platter. Skim off the grease
and pour broth over the duck. Garnish with the turnip.
Salmi of Duck
Use two medium -sized cold roast ducks, one can of mush-
rooms, sixteen stoned olives, one pint of Spanish sauce, one-
half pint of clear stock, one gill of Sherr}^, one tablespoonful of
lemon juice, one teaspoonful of salt, a little cayenne, and twelve
pieces of fried bread cut in triangles. Cut the duck into
medium-sized pieces and place in a saucepan with the salt
and pepper. Cover with the stock and let it come to the
boiling-point. Then add the olives and mushrooms and boil
for five minutes. Now add the Spanish sauce and cook until
it comes to a boil. Then add the Sherry and lemon juice.
Cook a minute or two. Arrange the duck in a mound on
the dish. Surround it with a border of fried bread. Pour
the sauce over the duck and serve very hot. This is enough
for twelve people.
Fillets of Ducklings
Draw and singe some fat ducklings. Separate the breasts
from the legs and backs by running the knife just above the
thighs and cutting through the upper part of the back under
the wings. Roast the backs and use them for making the
bigarade sauce. Place the breasts in a deep earthen dish,
season with coarse white pepper, salt, chopped parsley, bay leaf,
thyme, the juice of one lemon, and three tablespoonfuls of salad
oil. Let them soak for two or three hours. About three-
quarters of an hour before dinner arrange the fillets on a skewer
and place the seasoning over them. Cover with a big sheet of
greased paper and cook in an oven for about twenty minutes.
At the end of that time remove the paper and seasoning and
brown them. Remove the fillets, trim them, and scoi'e them.
Then put them in a saucepan with some of the sauce and allow
202 3IES. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
them barely to simmer until warmed through. Dish them in a
close circle with a fried crouton of bread between each fillet.
Pour the bigarade sauce over the entree and serve.
Roast Quail
After the desired number of quail have been cleaned, cut
off the heads and feet, arrange the joints, and wrap each bird in
a piece of larding pork. Place them in a saucepan just large
enough to accommodate them. They must be packed tightly
side by side. Cover them with boiling water. Sprinkle in
some salt and white pepper. Place them over a hot fire for
five or ten minutes. Remove the pork and dry each bird with
a cloth. Rub them thoroughly with butter and roast them
until a nice brown in a very hot oven. Baste two or three
times with a little melted butter. Take the liquor in which
they were boiled, strain it, and mix with an equal quantity of
melted currant jelly. Serve in separate dish. Also serve cold
currant jelly. Serve the birds when they are very hot.
Quail a la Royale
Bone eight quail, stuff them with chicken liver forcemeat,
and truss them in the usual way. Place them in a stewpan
with a few slices of carrot, an onion with two cloves stuck in it,
and a bouquet. Add one pint of white broth, cover with a
buttered paper, put the lid on, and let them cook slowly at the
side of range for about three-quarters of an hour. Leave them
in their liquor until they are partially cooled. Then remove
them and set away to become cold. When cold remove the
strings and roll each bird in bread crumbs, then in beaten egg^
and then again in bread crumbs. A short time before serving
place them in a frying basket and plunge in hot lard. Fry
until a delicate brown. Serve on hot platter. Pour Allemande
sauce around them.
LARDED QUAIL.
Facing j)<'Q^ ~02.
GAME PATE.
POULTRY AND GAME 203
Quail with Stewed Peas
Clean and truss eight quail in the same manner chickens are
trussed for boiling. Place them in a stewpan with half a pound
of bacon streaked fat and lean, a bouquet in the centre. Cover
with thin layers of fat bacon and moisten with good stock
seasoned with Sherry wine. Let them stew gently for three-
quarters of an hour. Prepare one pint of stewed peas, mix
them with a little of the quail stock reduced to a glaze. Arrange
the quail in a circle with their breasts placed outwards and a
thin slice of bacon between each one. Fill the centre with the
stewed peas. Mix a little of the quail stock with Espagnole
sauce, pour it around and over the quail, and serve.
Pigeon Pie
Arrange thin slices of sirloin beef in the bottom of a deep,
flat-edged earthen baking dish. Season with salt and pepper,
some herbs, chopped fine, and one ladle of Espagnole sauce.
Split in two pieces, four or more squabs, trim and flatten them,
season, and arrange over the beef with more fine herbs, six
sliced hard-boiled eggs, and one ladleful of Espagnole sauce.
Wet the edge of the dish, lay an inch wide flat rim of puff
paste on it, wet again, and cover the whole with a large thin
piece of paste, and trim and press the edges. Brush the surface
with egg, make a few incisions, and cut a hole in the centre.
Bake in a moderate oven for one hour, pour a little Espagnole
sauce through the hole, and serve hot.
Ballottines of Squab
Bone as many squabs as are required and stuff them with
a chicken forcemeat. Form each squab into a nice shape and
sew up on the back. Place them in a buttered pan and season
to taste. Cover with a buttered paper. Place the pan in the
oven for fifteen minutes. Put a ruffle on each leg and garnish
with water cress. Serve hot with Italienne sauce.
204 MRS. seelf's cook book
Partridges a la Malaga
Clean and truss four or six partridges as for boiling, and
fry them in four ounces of fresh butter until they are a light
brown. Remove and set aside on a plate. Have at hand one
pound of ham that has been soaked and parboiled and cut it in
small pieces about the size of an olive. Have also ready twenty-
four small pieces of the red part of a carrot cut with a small
scoop and also as many very small onions. Fry the ham and
vegetables until they are a light brown. Remove them and
mix with the partridge in another stewpan. Add a bouquet, a
little salt, a dash of cayenne pepper, two good glasses of Madeira
or Sherry wine, and one tablespoonful of thin tomato sauce.
Cover and set the stewpan where the contents will simmer
slowly for three-quarters of an hour. The liquid should be
reduced about one-half. When the partridges are cooked, dish
them in a triangular form. Skim the grease from the liquid and
vegetables, add a tablespoon of Espagnole sauce, and the juice
of half a lemon. Boil all together for two minutes. Place the
ham, carrots, and onions in separate groups around the partridges.
Strain the sauce through a wet cloth. Pour it over the par-
tridges and serve. The centre of dish may be filled with boiled
peas.
Fillets of Partridge a la Jardiniere
Fillet three partridges and separate the under fillets from
the larger ones. Season with salt and pepper. Then dip them
in a mixture consisting of one tablespoonful of chopped parsley,
one tablespoonful of lemon juice, and half a cup of melted but-
ter. Let the butter cool on them, dip them in two well-beaten
eggs, then in fine bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. The large
fillets ought to cook in six minutes, and the small ones in four
minutes. Drain them on brown paper. Arrange vegetables a la
Jardiniere in the centre of a large dish. Rest the fillets against
them, and pour Bechamel sauce around the base. Serve very hot.
POULTRY AND GAME 205
Fillet of Grouse
Fillet of grouse may be prepared the same way as fillet of
partridge. All the small birds may be filleted in the same
way, but the time of cooking is only two-thirds as long as for
the large ones.
Prairie Chicken Fricassee
Follow the directions for chicken fricassee or for creamed
chicken. A sauce may be made to stir in the fricassee by tak-
ing a little of the liquor in which the chicken is boiled, cooking
in it minced or sliced mushrooms, adding a bit of butter, salt,
and pepper, and stirring in fine before serving.
Prairie Chicken Roasted
After preparing the bird for cooking, truss it, and bind it
with thin slices of fat salt pork. Baste it often while baking
in a quick oven. The flesh will be dry if it is not well basted.
The basting liquid should be of water in the bottom of the pan,
a lump of butter, pepper and salt, the juice of half a lemon.
When serving remove the pork, tie paper frills upon the leg
bones, lay the chicken in a bed of parsley, and let it be well wet
with the liquid in which it is cooked.
Roast Snipe or "Woodcock
Draw each bird neatly and fill in with a piece of bread and
butter, well seasoned with pepper and salt. Round each bird
fold a thin piece of pickled pork, fastening the blanket with the
bill of the bird. Place them in a row in a porcelain dripping
pan, and nearly cover with port wine. Cook half an hour, bast-
ing frequently. Add a little butter if it is necessary in making
the gravy in the pan, and serve the birds hot between two strix)s
of bread toasted a light brown and buttered.
206 MBS. sebly's cook book
Roast Saddle of Venison with Sauce
Trim and lard very finely a saddle of venison weighing about
six pounds. Tie it around three or four times. Put it in a pan,
and sprinkle one tablespoonful of salt over it, and spread one
ounce of butter over. Roast in brisk oven for forty -five min-
utes. Baste it often. Remove the string before placing it on
a dish. Mix one-half glass of Sherry with one gill of white
broth. Pour into the drippings and let all come to a boil.
Skim off the fat and strain over the venison. Serve with the
following sauce in a separate dish : —
One wine-glass of Sherry. Let it come to a boil. Then
add one-half pint of currant jelly. Stir until thoroughly dis-
solved, then add one gill of Espagnole sauce. Stir until it
comes to a boil and serve very hot.
Roast Belgian Hare
After the hare is thoroughly dressed, let it soak for a couple
of hours in a good brine. By this process you loosen the film
and stringy skin that covers the flesh of the rabbit family. At
the end of the two hours wipe the flesh dry and lard it with
narrow strips of bacon, drawing the fat through the flesh of the
hare in spaces of an inch apart. In your dripping pan — a por-
celain-lined one is best, since you use an acid — put two table-
spoons of butter, a little chopped bacon, and the hare slightly
dredged with flour. As the flesh takes on a brown, pour over
it a third of a cup of weak vinegar (if vinegar is very sour use
less, and add water), and after this is well absorbed baste fre-
quently with a half pint of cream which has been salted and
peppered. Cook the hare until tender. Serve with sliced
lemons and parsley.
CHAPTER VIII
SALADS, SAUCES, AND ASPICS
Allemande Sauce
Take two ounces of flour and two ounces of melted butter.
Stir a few minutes on the fire without allowing it to brown.
Dilute with three pints of well-skimmed and strained chicken
broth. Stir to a boil, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and
boil half an hour. Skim, finish Avith four egg yolks mixed with
a little water, four ounces of butter, a little cream, and lemon
juice. Stir on the fire long enough to cook the eggs without
boiling the sauce and press immediately through a wet cloth.
Asparagus Sauce
One of the best sauces to serve with asparagus is made in
this manner : Mince one small onion and cook it in one table-
spoonful of butter for five or six minutes, but do not brown it.
Add two tablespoon fuls of flour and a seasoning of white pep-
per and cook a few moments longer. Add one pint of either
veal or chicken broth, one tablespoonful of salt, and a grating
of nutmeg. Beat up the yolks of two eggs and a little lemon
juice. Remove the saucepan containing the sauce from the fire
and beat in the egg yolks gradually. Strain the sauce, add
some butter in small pieces, and serve.
Bearnaise Sauce
]\Iix one gill of vinegar and two ounces of finely chopped
shallots. Put in a covered saucepan and cook until the vine-
207
208 2fES. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
gar is almost all reduced. Set it away until cold, then stir in
the yolks of four raw eggs, and season with salt and white pep-
per. Cook over a slow fire, stirring all the time, and gradually
adding one and one-half ounces of clarified butter and the same
quantity of olive oil. All butter may be used. Stir mixture
\vith wire whisk. Strain through a cloth, stir in some finely
chopped tarragon and parsley, and serve hot. This sauce
should be as thick as a mayonnaise dressing.
Bechamel Sauce
Take two ounces of butter and two ounces of flour mixed
together over the fire. Do not let it brown. Add one quart
of milk, a little salt, white pepper, grated nutmeg, and one bay
leaf. Boil, stirring constantly for ten minutes. Then add four
ounces of butter and one pinch of sugar. i\lix thoroughly and
strain through a wet cloth.
Bigarade Sauce
Cover the carcasses of two or more roasted ducks with water,
season to taste. Boil until it is of a strong flavor. Then strain,
clarify, and reduce to a demiglaze. To this add one small cup
of thick Espagnole sauce, the juice of one orange, and the rind
of two others entirely free from the white pith. Cut the rind
into small diamond shapes, and blanch them in boiling water
for three minutes before adding to the sauce. Boil all together
for five minutes in a double boiler.
White Bordelaise SaucB
Take one tablespoonful of finely chopped shallots fried in a
little butter, half a pint of veloute sauce, one small glass of white
wine, salt and white pepper to taste, and boil five minutes.
Add a little lemon juice, finely chopped parsley, and a small pat
of butter. Mix well and serve hot.
SALADS, SAUCES, AND ASPICS 209
Brandy Sauce
Take one cup of powdered sugar, one tablespoon of butter.
Rub them to a cream and moisten with one tablespoon of cream.
Beat until very light. Then gradually stir in one wine-glass of
brandy. Place the saucepan in pan of hot water and stir the
mixture until it comes to a boil. Serve hot in a sauce-boat.
Bread Sauce
Boil half an onion, and half a cup of fine white bread
crumbs in one pint of milk until the desired consistency. Re-
move the onion without breaking it, add one tablespoon of
butter, one-half teaspoon of salt, and a dash of white pepper.
Brown Sauce
Take one pint of clear brown stock, one clove, one piece of
carrot, onion and celery cut in inch squares. Stir over the fire
until they come to a boil. Blend two level tablespoonfuls of
corn-starch with five tablespoonfuls of water, stir with the stock,
and cook for fifteen minutes. Then add two tablespoonfuls of
butter, one teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of
pepper. Simmer for five minutes longer. Strain, and use as
directed.
Brown Sauce
Put two tablespoons of butter, two tablespoons of flour in a
saucepan. Stir over the fire until a dark brown. Add one
pint of water or brown stock, stir until thick and smooth. Sea-
son to taste with salt and black pepper. Lemon juice, currant
jelly, catsup, or wine, etc., may be used to flavor.
Brown Sauce
See Fried Chops, p. 164.
Drawn Butter
To one heaping tablespoon of batter take one heaping table-
spoon of flour, a little salt, and enough hot water to dissolve this
210 MBS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
cream. Thicken by standing the saucepan in hot water.
Chopped parsley or the crushed yolks of hard-boiled eggs may
be added to this. Let it stand (covered) in the hot water until
ready to serve.
Butter Sauce
See Artichokes, p. 233.
Celery Sauce
Cut the white parts of four heads of celery in small pieces.
Wash thoroughly and parboil for live minutes. Then drain and
place in a pan with half a pint of white broth. Let the broth
boil until almost dry. See that the celery is tender. Then mix
with the desired amount of AUemande sauce.
Cheese Sauce
Mix two tablespoonfuls of butter and one tablespoonful of
flour, add one cup of cream, and stir over the fire until all begins
to thicken. Stir in three tablespoonfuls of Swiss cheese, a little
white pepper, and salt.
See Cheese Timbale, p. 277.
Chops a la Sig-nora Sauce, p. 167
Puree of Chestnuts
Pour boiling water over one quart of chestnuts and let them
cook for ten minutes. Strain, and remove the outside skin.
Put them in kettle and boil until they are tender. Then rub
them through a fine sieve and season with one tablespoonful
of butter, one teaspoonful salt, one-fourth teaspoonful white
pepper. Mix well until light and creamy. Then add one-half
cupful of milk or cream. Serve hot.
Clam Sauce
Take one quart of freshly opened Little Neck clams, half a
pint of water, an ounce of butter, and boil five minutes. Mix
SALADS, SAUCES, AND ASPICS 211
two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, and a little nutmeg
together, and add one-lialf pint of boiling water, and one-half
pint of clam liquor. Stir with egg-beater, boil a minute or
two, add two egg yolks, twice as much water as egg yolks, and
a little lemon juice. Strain through a wet cloth. Then mix
in four ounces of butter, drain the clams, put them in the
sauce, and serve hot.
Creamy Sauce
Cream one-fourth cup butter and half a cup of j)owdered
sugar. Beat in slowly two tablespoons of wine or rich fruit
syrup and two tablespoons of cream. Serve cold or hot. If
served hot, stir over steam until the sauce is heated through.
Puree of Cucumbers
Peel and slit, each in four pieces, six nice cucumbers. Re-
move the seeds and cut in slices. Parboil, drain, and put in a
saucepan with one ounce of butter, and stir on the fire until
thickened. Add two ounces of flour, kneaded in butter, salt,
white pepper, and a little sugar. Dilute Avith a pint of milk.
Stir until the mixture boils, remove, and rub through a sieve.
Add one ounce of butter and serve hot.
Curry Sauce
Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan with one finely
chopped onion, a small bunch of parsley, and one ounce of
chopped raw ham. Cook over a slow fire until the onion is soft,
add one tablespoonful of flour, and a tablespoonful of curry
powder; mix well. Stir in one and one-half pints of white broth.
Boil fifteen minutes. Rub through a fine sieve, boil again, then
add a thickening of two egg yolks, two ounces of butter. Mix
well, without boiling, and serve.
212 MRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
Custard Sauce
Put one pint of milk in a saucepan with a small bit of va-
nilla bean. Stir over a slow fire until the milk comes to a boil.
Remove the bean and add three eggs, thoroughly beaten, and
granulated sugar to taste. Stir constantly over the fire until
the sauce becomes of the desired consistency.
Egg Sauce
Mix together three ounces of butter, two ounces of flour,
a little nutmeg, and salt, and pepper. Do not melt the butter.
Add one pint of boiling water, and stir with whip to get sauce
smooth. Then boil for a moment. Stir in the yolks of two
eggs, four ounces butter, and a little lemon juice. Press
through a wet cloth and add two hard-boiled eggs, chopped
fine.
Espagnole Sauce
Cut in small pieces, two carrots, two onions, one-half pound
of veal, — no fat, — one hock of ham, and place in a saucepan
with four ounces of butter, a few peppercorns, and one bouquet.
Stir over a hot fire until a light brown. Drain the butter off
and moisten the mixture with half a pint of Sherry wine, six
quarts of beef broth, and three-fourths pint of tomatoes. Boil
one hour and skim and strain. Melt seven ounces of butter,
add one-half pound of wheat flour. Stir over a slow fire until a
light brown, using wooden spoon. When partially cool add
gradually the strained preparation of meat, vegetables, etc. Stir
until the mixture comes to a boil, then set at the side and let it
boil slowly for one hour. Add more broth if the sauce is too
thick. Skim, press through a damp cloth, and stir occasionally
until it is cold. The above makes four quarts of liquid. A
smaller quantity can be made by reducing the proportions
exactly.
SALADS, SAUCES, AND ASPICS 213
How to make Glaze
Boil one quart of rich consomme until it becomes a thick,
gluelike substance. You should have about half a pint. A
demiglaze is made with one quart of consomme, boiled down to
one pint. The glaze gives a smooth, shiny surface to cooked
meats. When used, it should be melted over a pan of boiling
water and applied with a brush.
Demiglaze Sauce
One glassful — small — of mushroom liquor, one pint Espa-
gnole sauce, one small glassful Madeira wine, one bouquet, one
scant teaspoonful pepper. Remove the fat carefully and cook
for thirty minutes. Strain and use when needed.
Herb Sauce
See Broiled Shad, p. 113.
Horseradish Sauce
See Sucking Pig a la Russe, p. 177.
Ham Sauce
See Baked Ham, p. 174.
Sauce for Devilled Ham, etc.
Blend one tablespoonful of Coleman's mustard with two
ounces of granulated sugar, two ounces of butter, two table-
spoonfuls of Chutney Indian Club, two tablespoonfuls of Wor-
cestershire sauce, and a small glass of claret. Let all simmer
slowly on range for five minutes. Strain and serve hot. This
sauce will keep for a long time if in a cool place.
Hollandaise Sauce
Rub one-half cup of butter to a cream and add the yolks of
four eggs, first mixing one in before adding the other. As you
add each egg, add a little lemon juice ; in all, the juice of one-
214
half a lemon will do. When well mixed add salt and pepper
and pinch of cayenne. Mix well again. Have one-half cup
of good clear consomme and add by degrees. Set in pan of
hot water and cook until thick. Do not let it boil. Should it
happen to curdle, drop the white of an egg in, without being
whipped. Stir in well and it will make it all right. Do not
put on the fire again.
Italienne Sauce
Put one tablespoon of butter in a saucepan with one table-
spoonful of chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion, chopped
very fine, and one tablespoon of chopped mushrooms. Boil all
together for two minutes, then add one tablespoonful of flour.
Boil one minute. Add one cup of white stock and let all boil
five minutes. Then add a small cup of white wine. Boil
quickly until thick. Set aside until ready for use.
Jardiniere Sauce
See Sweetbread Jardiniere, p. 157.
Lemon Sauce
Mix three heaping teaspoonfuls of corn-starch with one cup
sugar and stir in two cups of boiling water. Cook eight min-
utes, stirring often. Add the grated rind and juice of one
lemon and one tablespoonful butter. If too thick add more
butter.
Lobster Sauce
After removing the meat from a good-sized boiled lobster,
boil the shells in one scant quart of water for twenty minutes.
Strain and use the broth to make a cream sauce. Cut the lob-
ster meat in small pieces and powder the dried lobster coral.
Stir both into the sauce. Add a dash of cayenne and two
tablespoonfuls of lemon juice.
Broiled Lobster Sauce, p. 135.
Lobster a la Brooklyn Sauce, p. 136.
Devilled Lobster Sauce, p. 141.
SALADS, SAUCES, AND ASPICS 215
Lyonnaise Sauce
Fry four finely chopped onions in two ounces of butter
until a light brown. Add a tablespoonful of white wine vine-
gar, and one pint Espagnole sauce. Stir and boil five minutes.
Add one pinch black pepper and a little chopped parsley.
Madeira Sauce
Put in a saucepan the yolks of six eggs, three ounces of
granulated sugar, and one-half pint of Madeira wine. Beat the
mixture over the fire with an egg-beater until it is thick and
frothy. Serve hot.
Maitre d'Hotel Sauce
Thicken a couple of ounces of butter with a small tablespoon
of flour, stirring it over a gentle fire for ten or fifteen minutes.
Then pour to it in small portions half a pint of rich veal broth
or gravy, mixing the whole well as it is added and letting it
boil up between each portion, for unless this is done the butter
is apt to float on the surface. Simmer the sauce for a few
minutes, then add salt, a dash of cayenne, three teaspoons of
minced parsley, and the juice of a small lemon.
Martinet Sauce for Pish
Cook one tablespoonful of butter, one tablespoonful of flour,
one teaspoonful of chopped onion, one-half can of tomatoes,
one-half teaspoonful of sugar, one-half teaspoonful of salt, all
together for ten minutes. Strain into another saucepan and
add the yolks of four eggs with one tablespoonful of cream and
a little nutmeg. Set the pan in hot water and add four ounces
of butter, small piece at a time. Set over the fire and stir until
smooth. Then remove from fire and add a little lemon juice or
tarragon vinegar. Strain through a strainer and then add a
little whipped cream.
216 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Maryland Sauce
In a mortar put the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, one table-
spoonful butter, one-half teaspoonf ul of salt, one-fourth teaspoon-
ful of white pepper, and a pinch of cayenne. Rub until mixture
is smooth. Then add a scant tablespoonf ul of flour. Mix well.
Stir in one-half cup of consommd, one glass of Sherry, glass of
Madeira wine, and one tablespoonful of brandy. When all
comes to a boil, stir in one cup cream.
Mint Sauce
Mix one cup of vinegar, one-half cup of powdered sugar,
and two cups of fresh mint leaves, finely chopped, and let them
stand one hour, or until the vinegar is strongly flavored with
the mint. Serve with roast lamb.
Mushroom Sauce
See Fillet of Beef, p. 148.
Mushroom Sauce
See Boned Boiled Chicken, p. 184.
Mussel Sauce
Cleanse, wash, and blanch or stew two quarts of mussels.
Remove the meat from the shells and place where it will keep
warm. Reserve the liquor in a basin. Knead four ounces of
butter with two ounces of flour, add some white pepper, a dash
of grated nutmeg, and salt. Stir in the liquor from the mussels
and half a pint of cream. Then add a mixture of four egg
yolks and twice as much water as you have egg liquid. Stir
over the fire until the sauce becomes the desired consistency.
Strain through a wet cloth and pour over the mussels. Just
before sending to the table add some finely chopped parsley
and a little lemon sauce.
SALADS, SAUCES, AND ASPICS 217
Prince of 'Wales Sauce
Place in a mortar and pound thoroughly the yolks of two
hard-boiled eggs, one teaspoonful of finely chopped chives, a
few capers, one-fourth teaspoon of mustard, the yolk of one
raw egg. Then add one tablespoon of salad oil, one teaspoon-
ful of tarragon vinegar, pepper and salt to taste. Rub through
a sieve. It is then ready for use.
Princess Sauce
Melt one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan and add one
tablespoonful of flour. When this comes to boil, add a pint of
chicken broth, one bay leaf, a clove of garlic, a sprig of parsley,
a head of celery, and one tablespoonful of chopped ham. Cook
all together for ten minutes. Then strain. Add a teaspoon
of beef extract and cook a few minutes longer. Then add
a tablespoon of Madeira wine, salt and pepper to taste. Serve
very hot. Do not cook after adding Avine.
Puree of Potatoes
Peel and wash eight potatoes, cut them in slices, and place
them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a little salt and
white pepper. Moisten with one pint of white broth, put the
lid on the pan, and let it boil until the broth is reduced. By
that time the potatoes are done. Stir in one-half pint of cream
and with a wooden spoon reduce the puree on the fire to the
consistency of mashed potato. Rub it through a wet cloth.
Heat thoroughly and stir in one lump of butter.
Shad Sauce
See Roast Shad, p. 115.
Shrimp Sauce
Beat a scant cup of butter to a cream, then stir in two table-
spoonfuls of flour. Beat until light, then pour in one and a half
218 MRS. seely's cook book
tablespoonfuls of anchovy and one tablespoonful of lemon juice.
Mix this with a pint of boiling water. Mix thoroughly and
stir over the fire until it is just about to boil. Stir in two gills
of fresh shrimp with the tails split and add a dash of cayenne.
Let the sauce get very hot and serve at once.
Sole Sauce
See Sole Normande, p. 118.
Spanish Sauce
Have at hand one generous pint of consomme, three table-
spoonfuls of gelatine dissolved in four tablespoonfuls of flour,
four tablespoonfuls of butter, two tablespoonfuls of finely
chopped onion, one tablespoonful of finely chopped carrot, one
tablespoonful of finely chopped celery, one ounce of lean ham,
one bay leaf, one sprig of parsley, two whole cloves, a little mace,
salt, and pepper. Soak the gelatine in one gill of consomme
for one hour or two. Cook the butter and vegetables for ten
minutes. Do not let them burn. Then add the flour and cook
until it is brown. Stir constantly. Set the saucepan at the
side of range and gradually stir in the consomme. Boil for
three minutes, stirring all the time. Set the mixture where it
will simmer for two hours. Then add the gelatine liquid.
Cook fifteen minutes longer. Skim off the grease and strain.
Serve hot.
Pur^e of Spinach
Pick and wash one peck of spinach and boil it until tender.
Then drain it in a colander and chop and pound it until it
becomes a soft paste. Place it in a saucepan with four ounces
of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and, if desired, a little grated
nutmeg. Cook for eight minutes, then stir in one ladleful of
veloute sauce and one quart of white broth. When thoroughly
heated, rub it through a wet cloth. If not used at once set in
cool place. Twenty minutes before serving, see that it is just
SALADS, SAUCES, AND ASPICS 219
at the boiling-point, then add a lump of butter and a little bit
of fine sugar. Mix all very thoroughly and serve hot.
Supreme Sauce
Take one pint of chicken stock, a shin of veal to weigh about
two pounds, one quart of water, one teacupful of butter, five
tablespoonfuls of flour, one small onion, one slice of carrot, two
cloves, a bit of mace, a dash of grated nutmeg, one bay leaf, one
sprig of parsley, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one-third of a tea-
spoonful of white pepper, and half a pint of chopped mushrooms.
Cut the veal in small pieces, put in a pan with the cold water,
spices, and vegetables. Cook slowly for four hours. Strain
and put away to cool. When cool, skim. Add this stock, which
should be jelly, to the chicken stock. Put the butter over the
fire. When hot, but not brown, add flour. Stir until smooth
and frothy. Set the pan back and stir until it is slightly cool,
then gradually add the chicken and veal stock. Stir until this
boils, then add the mushrooms, salt and pepper. Move the
saucepan back where the heat is sufficient to keep the sauce
bubbling at one side of the pan. Let it cook for two hours,
then skim and strain through a fine sieve. This sauce should
be clear and velvety. It must cook slowly.
Tartare Sauce
Season mayonnaise dressing to taste with finely chopped
shallots, capers, and vinegar pickles. If too thick, thin it with
vinegar.
Tongue Timbale Sauce
See Tongue Timbale, p. 150.
Tomato Sauce
Stew one-half can of tomatoes. Cook one tablespoonful of
chopped onion in one tablespoonful of butter until it is yellow.
220 MRS. seelt's cook book
Blend one tablespoonful of corn-starch with a little water and
stir into your tomatoes, adding onions and butter. Cook until
the mixture thickens and strain before serving. Water or stock
may be used with the tomato.
Tomato Sauce
See Crab Farcie, p. 132.
Venitienne Sauce
Prepare a sufficient quantity of AUemande sauce for the
purpose required. Just before serving add a good spoonful of
blanched tarragon leaves, cut into diamond shapes, and a small
lump of butter, a spoonful of tarragon vinegar, and, if desired,
a little grated nutmeg.
Veloute Sauce
Cover with water one knuckle of veal cut in small pieces,
some chicken parings or a fowl, and season with salt. Boil and
skim well. Add one carrot cut in quarters, one onion with
three cloves stuck in it, a bunch of parsley, two leeks, stalk of
celery, and a few peppercorns. Cover and boil slowly for two
hours. Skim off the fat and strain stock through a damp cloth.
In another saucepan mix three ounces of flour with two ounces
of butter, stir, and cook a little without browning. Add two
quarts of the stock and boil slowly for one-half hour. Skim
and strain through a napkin.
Venison Sauce
See Roast Saddle of Venison, p. 206.
Vinaigrette Sauce
Mix half a pint sweet oil, two tablespoons of vinegar, pepper,
salt, and chopped shallots to the taste, and a little chopped
parsley. Beat well with wire whip and serve immediately.
SALADS, SAUCES, AND ASPICS 221
White Sauce
Melt one tablespoonful of butter and stir in one tablespoon-
ful of flour, half teaspoonf ul of salt, one-eighth teaspoon of white
pepper, one cup of milk or white stock. If the liquid is cold,
stir it all at once into the flour, etc., and stir constantly as it
thickens. If liquid is hot, add one-third at a time, stirring well
until each portion has thickened. If not smooth, strain before
using. One may use capers, chopped hard-boiled eggs, chopped
parsley, celery salt, lemon juice, oysters, cooked celery, for
flavoring. If one desires a thicker sauce, double the quantity
of butter and flour.
Wine Sauce
Mix one-half cup of butter and one cup of powdered sugar,
beat it to a cream, add the well-beaten yolk of one egg ; beat
the white of one egg and add to the mixture. Flavor with
Sherry wine and vanilla to taste. Stir in about three table-
spoonfuls of boiling water. Place the bowl of sauce over a pan
of boiling water and stir until it becomes a thick cream. Serve
at once.
Yellow Sauce
Cream one-half cup of butter with one-half cup of light
brown sugar. Stir over hot water until liquid, then add the
well-beaten yolks of two eggs, one saltspoon of ground mace,
one-half cup of wine or fruit juice. Stir until it thickens.
Cream Salad Dressing
Heat to a boil five tablespoons of good vinegar, one teaspoon
of salt, and half a teaspoon of whfte pepper. Beat well the
yolks of five eggs and over them pour the hot vinegar. Put
all over the fire and stir constantly till the mixture thickens,
wiien you add two tablespoons of butter. Set away carefully
covered. When used, thin with good cream and season to taste.
222 MBS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Cream Salad Dressing
A delicious cream boiled dressing for salads that may be used
where oil is not liked. Cream two tablespoonfuls of butter,
add a teaspoonf ul each of salt and sugar, half a teaspoonf ul each
of mustard and paprika, or a dash of cayenne in place of the
latter. Put the yolks of two eggs slightly beaten in a double
boiler, add slowly four tablespoonfuls of hot tarragon or plain
vinegar, beating constantly until thick. Remove from fire, add
the seasoned butter, beat thoroughly, and when perfectly cold,
add three-quarters of a cup of whipped cream and serve.
French Dressing
Six tablespoonfuls of oil, three tablespoonfuls of malt vinegar,
one-half teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar. Add salt and white
pepper to taste. Mix well together. Serve with lettuce, cold
asparagus, etc.
French Dressing
Six tablespoonfuls of oil, three tablespoonfuls of malt vinegar,
one-half tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, salt and white pepper
to taste, the white of one egg, and four tablespoonfuls of cream.
Mix well together with wire whisk. Serve with lettuce, cold
asparagus, etc.
French Salad Dressing
Three tablespoons of olive oil, one tablespoon of vinegar.
Mix salt, red pepper, a little mustard, and a trifle of sugar; stir
smooth with oil ; to these ingredients add the oil and vinegar.
Mayonnaise Dressiiig
A scant half teaspoonful of mustard and a little water
mixed to a thick paste. Stir in the yolk of one egg, then add
olive oil — a teaspoonful or two at a time until you have the
desired amount. Stir constantly with a fork. Season with
SALADS, SAUCES, AND ASPICS 223
vinegar, salt, dash of cayenne, and lemon juice if desired.
Should the dressing thicken too quickly, thin it with vinegar.
Should it curdle, commence again with a little mustard paste,
yolk of another egg, and gradually stir in the first mixture.
Keep on ice until served.
Mayonnaise Dressing
Have at hand the yolks of two eggs, one-half a teaspoonful
of salt, one-half an eggspoonful of mustard, and a little white
pepper. Mix the yolks and mustard together with a fork, then
add olive oil very slowly — not more than a few drops at a time.
Keep stirring and adding the oil until the mixture becomes thick
and creamy. Add salt, white pepper, and malt and tarragon
vinegar — more malt than tarragon. The vinegar will serve to
make it thin, so use it accordingly. Serve with lettuce, celery,
tomatoes, etc.
Union Club Dressing
Have at hand two hard-boiled eggs, — very hard, — two pi-
mento peppers, one-half a small onion, one small bunch of chives,
one small garlic, and three or four sprigs of tarragon. Chop
the peppers, onion, garlic, and chives very fine, also the fresh
tarragon. Take the white of one egg and mince it very fine —
you can do this with a fork. Rub the yolks of two eggs through
a sieve, mix with the white of egg, and then add six tablespoon-
fuls of oil and two of tarragon vinegar, the chopped peppers,
onion, chives, and garlic, salt to taste and a dash of red pepper.
Stir briskly for five minutes or more. Be sure to have it
properly mixed and it will be quite thick. Serve with lettuce
or water-cress in place of French dressing.
Asparagus Salad
Lay large, well-cooked asparagus in a salad bowl, having all
the heads one way, and pour over a liberal French dressing.
Serve thoroughly cold.
224: MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Cabbage Salad
Pour a little boiling water in a saucepan, add one and a half
cups of vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of granulated sugar, three
tablespoons of cream, and one teaspoonful of Coleman's mus-
tard. Mix well, adding salt and white pepper to taste. When
the mixture comes to a boil, stir in the well-beaten yolks of three
eggs. Set away to cool. Shave one head of cabbage in small
strips. Soak in cold water to make it crisp. Dry thoroughly
and mix with the dressing.
White and Red Cabbage Salad
Take a red cabbage and a white cabbage, and having well
washed and drained them, shave in long, thin strips. Arrange
the strips tastefully in a salad bowl, either in diameter strips or
in tufts of red in a bed of white, and garnish to taste.
A dressing good for the cabbage is made of the yolks of
two hard-boiled eggs rubbed smooth with a teaspoon of mus-
tard, a tablespoon of finely minced onion, an egg well beaten,
and a teaspoon of sugar, and salt and pepper to taste. Add a
small cup of oil and vinegar to make it of the right sourness,
and pour over the cabbage, which should be thoroughly cold.
Serve at once.
In making this salad the Germans sometimes boil the cab-
bages for five minutes (in separate saucepans) and then put
the cabbages in cold water till used.
Cold Slaw
Shave a head of cabbage in small strips, soak in cold water
to make it crisp, dry thoroughly, and serve with a dressing
made as follows : Mix one egg well beaten, one tablespoon of
vinegar, two tablespoons of sour cream, butter the size of a
walnut, and half a tablespoon of mustard, one tablespoon of
sugar, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir thoroughly and pour
over the cabbage, mixing it in well.
CREAM CHEESE-BALL SALAD.
^Jfer-
Facing page 22k.
TOMATO SALAD.
SALADS, SAUCES, AND ASPICS 225
Cold Slaw
Shave or chop the cabbage (not too fine), and make the
dressing as follows : Two eggs, a scant one- third of a cup of
vinegar, one heaping teaspoon of salt, one heaping teaspoon
of sugar, a little cayenne pepper. Stir all well together, add-
ing the vinegar slowly and stirring all the time. Set the
saucepan into another of hot water to thicken the dressing.
Boil the water very slowly under it and stir constantly to pre-
vent lumps. During the thickening raise the saucepan that
contains the mixture from the water occasionally and stir and
set it back. When the dressing is quite thick and smooth
remove, and add a teaspoon of butter and cream. If wished,
add a dessert or tablespoonful of olive oil.
Cheese Salad
To one cup of minced chicken add half a pound of soft
tender American cheese and half a cup of pickled cauliflower
chopped coarsely together. Rub soft the yolks of two hard-
boiled eggs, add one teaspoon of French mustard, three table-
spoons of vinegar, four tablespoons of oil or melted butter, and
cayenne and salt to taste. Pour this sauce over the salad
and garnish with the white of the egg cut in rings and
branches of pickled cauliflower.
Cream Cheese Salad
Color the cream cheese a delicate green, using either the
juice of boiled spinach or vegetable coloring, and form it in
balls or eggs the size of a walnut. Take a flat salad dish
and make nests of the tender leaves of lettuce, and in each
nest put three or four eggs of the cheese. With these serve
mayonnaise dressing and crisp salted biscuits or water
crackers.
226 MRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
Chicken Salad
Remove the meat from a chicken that has been boiled in
salted water, and cut into pieces about one inch square. Wash
and scrape some nice celery. Soak in cold water to make it
crisp. Dry thoroughly and cut in pieces about the same size as
the chicken. Have about three-quarters as much celery as you
have chicken. Mix both together and make very moist and rich
with a mayonnaise dressing. Arrange on dish, shape nicely, and
cover with more dressing. Garnish and trim with white celery
leaves, hard-boiled egg, and a few capers sprinkled over the top.
Halibut Salad with Cucumber Spirals
Halibut salad is an appetizing, warm weather dish for lunch-
eon or Sunday night's supper. Steam a slice of halibut three
inches thick. Its flavor is improved if a soup bunch is thrown
into the steamer with it. It is done when tender enough to
remove the skin and bone, which should be accomplished while
it is still hot without disturbing the shape. Pour over it a
French dressing made of four tablespoonfuls of olive oil, two
of vinegar, with salt and pepper to taste. When cold arrange
on a bed of lettuce hearts and fill the cavity from which the
bone was taken with the best of them.
This dish is prettily garnished with curls, spirals, or cups of
cucumber, made as follows : Cut a cucumber crosswise in sec-
tions three-quarters of an inch thick. Cut each section round
and round in one long, thin paring. Mayonnaise dressing fills
these cups, or is served with the fish in a separate sauce cup
if the cucumbers are served in the usual way, that is, sliced
with a French dressing.
Lobster Salad
Cut the meat of the lobster in pieces about one inch square.
Place them in an earthen bowl and season with a French dress-
ing of olive oil, vinegar, and a little salt and white pepper.
SALADS, SAUCES, AND ASPICS 227
Wash and thorouglily dry the white leaves of lettuce. Arrange
on a flat dish in the form of shells. Drain the lobster and mix
with enough mayonnaise dressing to make it rich and creamy.
Fill each shell with it and pour a little mayonnaise on top of
each one. Garnish the dish with lettuce leaves.
Cold Meat and Potato Salad
Cut one pound of cold meat into inch squares and mix with
one pint of chopped, cold boiled potatoes. Put a layer in the
bottom of a salad bowl, sprinkle with a little parsley, celery,
and onion chopped very fine, and moisten with a salad dressing
of oil, vinegar, salt, and white pepper. Then spread another
layer of meat and potato, and so on till all is used. This dish
should stand for two or three hours before serving.
Oyster Salad
Scald oysters until they are plump, and then put them in
cold water while they are boiling hot, so as to make them firm.
Put them to one side and boil five eggs hard. Take off the
whites and chop very fine. Lay a bed of white lettuce in a
long dish. Place the oysters in this. Cover the oysters with
a mayonnaise dressing. Over them place the yolks of the
eggs, which have been mashed very fine, and lastly the chopped
whites of the eggs. Do not let it stand very long before serv-
ing. If you do, the oysters and mayonnaise will become watery.
Be sure the lettuce is thoroughly dried.
Pineapple Salad
Select a large, ripe pineapple, and after cutting off tlie top,
remove the inside, leaving only the shell. Next remove the
skin and seeds from a few grapes, then take two ripe bananas,
skin them, and cut into small pieces. Also cut the pineapple
and grapes in small pieces. Mix all with mayonnaise dressing,
replace in the pine shell, and serve.
228 MRS. seely's cook book
Russian Salad
Cut in thin slices some cold salmon, chicken, and partridge.
Arrange them in a dish and mix with them in small quantities
some cooked turnips, carrots, cauliflower, and asparagus tops,
— each vegetable cut in small pieces, — a few capers, shrimps,
and a small portion of caviare. Make a dressing of mustard,
oil, vinegar, a dash of cayenne, and one tablespoonful of
minced shallots. Pour the mixture over the contents of salad
dish and set on ice until served. This salad should be made
so that each and every article can be tasted, but none should
be pronounced.
Aspic Jelly
Soak one box of gelatine in half a pint of consomme for two
hours. At the end of that time put one pint and a half over
the fire. As soon as it reaches the boiling-point add, with the
liquid gelatine, a gill of Madeira or Sherry wine, two table-
spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of lemon
juice, and one teaspoonful of salto Place the pan on a cool part
of the range where it will cook slowly. Stir constantly for five
minutes. Strain through a flannel bag or cloth. The jelly
should be as clear as crystal.
Aspic of Chicken *
Use half the rule for aspic jelly, one pint and a half of tender,
cooked chicken free from skin, fat, and bones, and cut into dice,
three slices of the red part of a cooked carrot, and three slices
of cooked beet, the white of one hard-boiled egg^ one teaspoon-
ful of salt, and one-third of a teaspoonful of white pepper.
Prepare the mould as for foie gras, but decorate it with beet,
carrot, and the white of egg. When the layer of jelly which
completely covers the vegetables is hard, season the chicken
with salt and pepper and arrange it on the top, being careful
SALADS, SAUCES, AND ASPICS 229
to leave a space of about one-third of an inch between the
chicken and the mould. With a spoon sprinkle a gill of the
liquid jelly over the meato Let it stand about half an hour to
harden. At the end of that time pour the remainder of the
jelly into the space between the chicken and the mould. Let
it stand several hours. At serving time turn on a flat dish.
If a border mould, fill in centre with celery salad, — may-
onnaise and small pieces of celery. Be careful not to drop
anything on the aspic. Garnish the border with sprays of
white celery.
Aspic de Foie Gras
A small round or oval border mould is preferred, although
any shape will do. Have at hand one of the smallest jars of
foie gras, half the rule of aspic jelly, one truffle, and the white
of one hard-boiled egg. Place the mould in a pan and surround
it with cracked ice and a little water. Pour the liquid jelly
into the mould to the depth of half an inch. Let this stand
until it hardens. Then decorate it with the white of an egg
and the truffle, which has been cut in thin slices and stamped
with a fancy vegetable cutter. Moisten them with a little
liquid jelly and let them stand about ten minutes so that the
jelly may harden and hold them in place. Next, gently pour
in another layer of jelly about one-quarter of an inch thick.
Let this harden. Scrape all the fat from the foie gras. Dip
it for half a minute in hot water. Wipe it dry and cut in thin
sliceJi, then in pieces about one inch square. Spread a layer of
these over the congealed jelly. Cover with the liquid jelly and
wait until it hardens before adding the second layer of foie
gras. Continue until the mould is almost filled. Finish with
a thin layer of liquid jelly. Set in cool place for three or four
hours. Serve on a flat dish. If a border mould has been used,
fill in the centre with Tartare sauce garnished with stuffed
olives.
230 3fBS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
Aspic of Trout
Clean, wash, and dry a good-sized fresh trout. Fill the cavity
with veal forcemeat for fish and truss the head. Place it in a
saucepan, cover it with broth, and boil it until it is done. Have
ready a long piece of fried bread as long as the fish, cover the
bread with paper, and when the trout is cold, drained, and
thoroughly dry, place it on the top with the butter beneath it.
Glaze with a half set aspic jelly, decorate the edge with jelly
croutons. Garnish the base with halves of hard-boiled eggs
and small heads of lettuce cut in half, and serve with a mayon-
naise dressing.
Calf's-foot Jelly
Bone and soak four calf's feet in cold water for one hour.
Wash well, parboil, and then boil with four quarts of water
until soft. Skim off all the fat, pass the liquid through a wet
cloth. Put some in a saucer and set on ice to cool so as to test
it. If too hard, add water ; if too soft, boil a little longer.
Put three pints of the liquid in an earthen saucepan with four
cloves, a little ginger and cinnamon, the juice of two lemons,
twelve ounces of granulated sugar, and a gill of Madeira wine.
Beat two eggs with a little water, mix into the preparation,
and stir over the fire until it comes to a boil. Strain twice
through a jelly bag. Pour into eight or more crystal jelly
glasses. Cool thoroughly, serve one to each person.
Chicken Jelly served with Any Salad
Take one fowl chopped in small pieces, — use feet, head,
and all the bones, — one quart of cold water, one bay leaf, and
season well with salt and white pepper. Put over fire and let
come to a boil. Then push the kettle back on the range
where the mixture will simmer slowly for five hours. Strain
and set away to cool. After removing all the fat, replace it on
the stove and add the white of one well-beaten egg to clear it.
SALADS, SAUCES, AND ASPICS 231
Be sure the whole is well seasoned. Then pour in a fancy
shaped mould. When it begins to set, stand a cup or glass in
centre, and when the jelly is cold carefully remove the cup.
Fill the gap left by the cup with cream and Philadelphia cream
cheese whipped together. Cover this with a little of the jelly.
To serve turn the jelly on a dish. Garnish with small sand-
wiches of Graham bread. Instead of cheese and cream, one
may use pate de foie gras or any filling desired.
CHAPTER IX
VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS FOODS
Boiled Artichokes
Wash the artichokes well in several waters and soak them
for a few hours in salted water to remove any insects which
may be in the leaves. Trim away the leaves at the bottom.
Cut off the stems. Place them in boiling salted water and
boil until tender. Leave the saucepan uncovered while they
are boiling. To two quarts of water add one tablespoonful of
salt and a pinch of washing soda about the size of a pea. The
last-named ingredient tends to keep them green. They are
sufficiently cooked when the leaves can easily be removed.
Drain them and serve with a little white sauce poured over
them. Serve melted butter in a separate dish. This vegeta-
ble will cook in less than half an hour.
Artichokes a la Lyonnaise
Pull off the leaves without damaging the bottoms of the
artichokes, which must be turned smooth with a knife. Cut
the artichokes into quarters, and, after removing the fibrous
parts, parboil them in salted water for about five minutes.
Then drain in a colander and plunge them in cold water.
Drain them on a cloth and arrange them in a circle in a sauce-
pan which is thickly spread with four ounces of butter. Sift a
dessertspoonful of powdered sugar over them. Season with
salt and coarse white pepper and moisten with one glass of
white wine and a tablespoonful of rich consomme. Place them
on a slow fire and let them simmer gently for three-quarters of
232
TIMBALE MOULD.
(See p. 198.)
Facing page 232.
ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS FILLED WITH FRENCH BEANS. MAYONNAISE
DRESSING.
VEGETABLES AND FAEINACEOUS FOODS 233
an hour, taking care they do not burn. When cooked they
should be a nice yellow color and nicely glazed. Dish them in
the shape of a dome, showing the bottom of the artichokes
only. Remove any leaves that may have broken off in the
saucepan. Add a small cup of Espagnole sauce, two medium-
sized pieces of butter, and a little lemon juice. Let this simmer
over the stove and stir constantly with a spoon. When the
butter has been thoroughly mixed with the sauce, pour it over
the artichokes and serve.
Artichokes a I'ltalienne
These are prepared the same as above, except brown Ital-
ienne sauce must be substituted for Espagnole sauce.
Artichokes with Butter Sauce
Trim the bottom of six artichokes, cut off the tips of the
leaves, and boil them in salted water for three-quarters of an
hour. When done, drain them on a sieve and then soak them
for five minutes in cold water. Remove the fibrous portion
from the inside with the handle of a tablespoon and put them
back in some hot water for a few minutes. When warmed
through, drain them upside down, putting them on a cloth to
absorb the moisture. Pour a little butter sauce inside each
one, and serve with some of the sauce in a separate dish.
Melted butter with a little lemon juice mixed with it may be
used in place of the sauce.
Butter Sauce
Mix one heaping teaspoonful of flour and one gill of cold
water, add a little salt, two peppercorns, a dash of grated
nutmeg, a clove, and half an ounce of butter. Stir over the
fire until it comes to a boil. Let it cook slowly for fifteen
minutes. Remove from the fire and gradually add one-half
pound of fresh butter and the juice of one lemon. If the sauce
234 MBS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
should become too thick, add a little more water. Strain
through a wet cloth.
Baked Asparagus
Scrape, wash, and bunch as much white asparagus as
required. Boil until rather firm, then drain on a cloth with-
out cooling. Have the following sauce prepared : Mix a scant
pint of thick Bechamel sauce with three egg yolks and three
ounces of grated Parmesan cheese. Stir over the fire until it
comes to a boil. In an oval buttered baking dish range a
layer of asparagus, — all the heads one w^ay, — cover the eating
part only with some of the sauce and a little grated cheese.
Add another layer of asparagus, etc., until the whole is used.
Finish with the sauce, grated cheese, and a few fresh bread
crumbs. Put small pieces of butter on top. Do not have any
of this mixture on the stalks. Cover the stalks with a curved
tin sheet so that only the mashed part will be exposed to the
heat, and bake to a nice brown. Take off the tin sheet and
serve.
Baked Asparagus
Cut the stalks into inch lengths and boil them slowly in
salted water. When tender, drain and arrange in a baking
dish, pouring over a rich, drawn butter sauce or sauce Hollan-
daise. Grate a good cheese — Parmesan is the best — over the
top and brown.
Baked Asparagus
First cook the asparagus in water till tender, and then put
it in a baking dish with about one tablespoonful of the grated
Parmesan scattered between each layer. Melt one tablespoon-
ful of butter in the frying pan, and when it is quite hot fry
two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion till brown. Pour this
over the asparagus, add another sprinkling of the cheese, and
last of all some fine bread crumbs. Brown delicately in a hot
oven.
/:i
*Va''> '•/•^>i
"■*"-nfS*JKS^*©*
BAKED ASPARAGUS.
Facing page 23U.
BAKED (JAULIP^LOWEK.
(See p. 238.)
' '-'h
VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS FOODS 235
Pried Asparagus
Fried asparagus is made just exactly as well from the canned
variety of the vegetable as from the fresh. Drain the asparagus
on a cloth, season it with white pepper and with salt. Dust it
lightly with flour, then dip in beaten egg^ and roll in sifted
bread crumbs. Fry it in hot fat. The best plan is to use
half butter and half lard, the whole being strictly limited in
quantity. Serve on a hot dish.
Asparagus Canapes
Scrape lightly the stalks, boil until the stalks are tender,
when half done add a little salt. When done prepare each
bunch to serve on separate plates. Take a slice of toast, dip
quickly in the asparagus water. Lay this on the plate, sprinkle
a very little salt over it, also pour a small quantity of melted
butter. Lay the asparagus on this. Remove the string from
the bunches. Sprinkle a little more salt over it and over this
pour melted butter.
Brussels Sprouts in Cream
Take off any loose leaves hanging from the sprouts, put
them in cold water, and let them stand half an hour so that
if any insects are in them they will come out. Then put them
on to boil, using one quart of sprouts to two quarts of boiling
water. They will probably be done in twenty minutes or half
an hour. Have them well cooked, but not softened to lose
their shape. Toward the end of the boiling add a tablespoon-
ful of salt. Drain off the water, add a dash of pepper, and
a small cup of cream in which a teaspoon of flour or corn-starch
has been stirred. Let the sprouts simmer five or ten minutes
in the cream and serve.
236 MRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
Baked Bananas
Fill a baking dish with bananas which have been peeled, cut
in halves, lengthwise, and crosswise. To one banana allow two
tablespoonfuls of water, one of sugar, one teaspoonful of melted
butter, one of lemon juice, and a few grains of salt. Baste
often and cook slowly a half an hour or till the bananas are
red and syrup thick. Serve very hot.
Banana Fritters
Beat three eggs, one pint of milk, and flour enough to make
stiff batter, add one teaspoonful of baking powder. Peel the
bananas. Cut them in four pieces. Dip each one separately
in the batter and drop in boiling fat. Fry three or four
minutes, drain on paper, and serve with wine sauce. Sprinkle
with powdered sugar before serving.
Stuffed Cabbage
Select two medium-sized solid cabbages. Remove the loose
leaves, wash carefully, and soak them in salted water for one
hour. Then parboil for fifteen minutes. Cool in fresh water,
press the water out, and set them on a cloth to drain. Make
a forcemeat with one-half pound of raw, lean veal and one-half
pound of fat pork. Chop fine, pound well, and rub through
puree sieve. Season with salt and white pepper, grated nut-
meg, and chopped parsley, add the yolks of four eggs, and
mix well. Slit the cabbages, cut out the cores, and fill with
the forcemeat. Place them together and wrap them in thin
slices of fat pork. Tie them with strings. Put them in a
saucepan with a quart of broth and one glass of Sherry wine.
Cover and cook slowly for two hours and till the liquid is
reduced to a glaze. Dish up the cabbage, untie the strings,
remove pieces of pork, and drain. Take off the fat from the
glaze, add two ladlefuls of brown sauce to the saucepan to
VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS FOODS 237
dilute it. Pour the sauce over the well-drained cabbages
and serve hot.
Mushrooms make a delicious stuffing for the cabbage when
they are boiled, chopped, seasoned with salt and pepper, fried,
and finally mixed with half their quantity of boiled rice and
eggs, allowing two eggs to a head of cabbage.
Colonial Dutch Sour Cabbage
Carefully shave or chop the head of a white cabbage and
put it in a saucepan with a little hot water. Cover closely
and let it cook slowly on the back of the range in its steam and
juice for four or five hours. A little before time to serve,
add salt to taste, a small tablespoonful will commonly do, a
large cup of thick sour cream, a dash of pepper, and let all
boil up so that the cream will cook into the cabbage.
At last, just before serving, add a tablespoonful of vinegar
or more if the vinegar is weak, stir it in thoroughly, and serve.
During the cooking the cabbage may need more water. If
so, add boiling water and so little of it that when it is time to
add the cream the water will be almost cooked out. If your
cabbage head is large, you may need more than a cup of cream.
The cream should be enough to whiten and oil all the cabbage.
If sweet cream is used, you may need more vinegar. Sour
cream is best when obtainable.
Carrots a TAllemande
Prepare two bunches of spring carrots, keeping their origi-
nal shape, but making them all equal in size. Parboil them in
salted water for about ten minutes. Drain them in a colander
and plunge them in cold water. Drain them again and lay
them on a napkin. Then place them in a deep saucepan with
two ounces of fresh butter, two ounces of loaf sugar, and about
one pint of good consomme. Put the lid on and let them boil
238 Mrs. seely's cook book
very gently over a slow fire for half an hour. Then set them
to boil briskly until their liquor is reduced to a glaze. Serve
in a round-bottomed dish, building them up in a perfect dome.
Garnish with Allemande sauce mixed with a little finely chopped
parsley. Pour the remainder of the glaze over the carrots and
serve very hot.
Carrots with Cream Sauce
Peel and cut enough new carrots in one-sixth of an inch
slices. Put them in a saucepan with one-half pint of water,
a little salt, tablespoonful sugar, and one ounce of butter.
Cover and cook about one-half hour, tossing occasionally.
Add a liaison of three egg yolks, — the liaison including twice
as much cold water as you have liquid yolks when beaten, —
and one-half cup cream, one ounce of butter, and chopped
parsley. Mix carefully by tossing in the saucepan. Serve
at once.
Baked Cauliflower
Pare off the green leaves and boil two heads of cauliflower
in salted water and a small piece of butter. Drain, season
inside and out with salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg.
Put in dome form on a buttered baking dish. Mix one scant
pint of thick Bechamel sauce with four egg yolks and four
ounces of American or Parmesan cheese, grated. Let all boil
a minute, cover the cauliflower with it, and smooth with the
blade of a knife. Then sprinkle with fine bread crumbs, more
grated cheese, and a few bits of butter. Bake to a nice color
twenty minutes.
Boiled Cauliflower
Select a medium-sized cauliflower. Trim neatly and soak
it in salt and water for two hours. Then examine it thoroughly
and wash it in fresh water. Place it in a saucepan with a
small handful of salt, white pepper, and enough water to cover
VEGETABLES AND FAUINACEOVS FOODS 2B9
it. Boil until tender for one-luilf hour or more. Drain in a
colander, place on a dish, and cover with a rich white sauce
or a HoUandaise sauce.
Cauliflower with Parmesan Cheese
Remove the green stalks and if large divide into quarters
one or more fresh cauliflowers. Wash and soak in salted water
for one hour. Then place in hot water with a lump of butter,
a little salt, and coarse white pepper. When cooked tender,
drain on a sieve. Arrange cauliflower, flowerets down, in a
deep dish, in a few minutes invert on the dish it is to be served
on and entirely cover it with the following sauce : Mix one
cup of veloute sauce with four ounces of Parmesan cheese,
with beaten yolks of four eggs, a good-sized lump of butter,
a little lemon juice, salt and white pepper to taste. Stir this
over the fire until it is well mixed. Do not let it boil. After
making the cauliflower with this sauce, smooth the top, and
cover it with a coating of Parmesan cheese. Place in the
oven for fifteen minutes until it is a nice brown. Garnish
with fried bread cut in fancy shapes. The bread may be ar-
ranged in the shape of a cornucopia and the cauliflower placed
in it before it is masked. Then there is no danger of the cauli-
flower spreading.
Fried Cauliflower
Parboil two cauliflowers in salted w^ater. Drain and break
them in small bunches. Make a batter of two tablespoons
of olive oil, six ounces of flour, salt and white pepper, three
eggs, and one glass of milk. Beat with an egg-beater until
very smooth. Dip each piece of cauliflower in this batter and
then drop one by one in deep hot fat. Fry until crisp and
light brown. Drain on brown paper and serve on a folded
napkin.
240 MBS, seelt's cook book
Celery a la Villeroi
Clean six heads of celery and cut them in pieces about six
inches long. Parboil them in water for ten minutes and then
immerse them in cold water. Drain them on a sieve and after-
ward place them on a saucepan with enough white broth to
cover them. Let them cook over a slow fire for one hour.
When done, drain on a cloth to free them from all the mois-
ture. Cover them with some reduced Allemande sauce and set
away until cold. Roll them in fine bread crumbs, then dip
in beaten egg^ then in bread crumbs again. Arrange in wire
basket and fry in hot lard until they become a light brown.
Drain on heavy brown paper and serve very hot.
Celery a la Creme
Wash and cut the celery in small pieces. Put them in a
saucepan and cook gently till tender in a broth of chicken or
veal. Water may be used instead of the broth. Add cream
in the proportion of a cup of cream to two cups of the chopped
celery. Season with salt and pepper and let the whole boil up.
If a thickening is wished, stir a little flour in the cream.
Buffalo Corn Oysters
Cut down each row of kernels on fresh sweet corn-cobs,
running a sharp knife down the centre of each row, and then
scrape out the pulp. Do not cut the kernels off the cob.
To one cup of the pulp add the yolk of one egg^ a seasoning of
butter, pepper and salt, and, just before frying, the white beaten
stiff. Drop from a spoon into a hot frying pan, in which a little
butter is melted, and fry a golden brown.
Corn Fritters
One pint of grated sweet corn, one and a half cups of milk,
one-half cup of flour, one tablespoonful of melted butter, two
VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS FOODS 241
eggs, a little salt and pepper, and one teaspoonful of baking
powder. Mix the milk and well-beaten eggs together, add the
melted butter and seasoning, then the flour and baking powder
sifted together, lastly stir in the grated corn. Drop by the
tablespoonful in hot fat. Drain on brown paper and serve
very hot.
Stuffed Cucumbers
Pare off the peel and both ends of some large cucumbers
and cut in lengths about two inches long. Remove all the
seeds. Parboil them in salted water and drain thoroughly.
Then fill each piece of cucumber with chicken forcemeat.
Arrange them in a saucepan which is lined with thin slices of
bacon, then cover them with slices of bacon. Moisten them
with a little beef broth and cook over a slow fire for half an
hour. When they have become quite tender, drain them on a
cloth and serve them with Espagnole sauce.
Stuffed Cucumbers with Sauce
For six or eight persons peel four cucumbers of good size.
After cutting off the ends, cut each cucumber into two parts.
Remove the seeds with an apple corer. Put a tablespoonful of
salt in one quart of cold water. Put the cucumbers in the
liquid and set away in a cool place. Chop about one-quarter
of a pound of veal in fine pieces. See that there is no gristle or
fat. Mix one gill of milk and one-third of a gill of fine bread
crumbs. Cook until it becomes a smooth paste. Ten minutes
will probably be long enough. Then add the veal, one-half
teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper, an
eighth of a teaspoonful of thyme, one-quarter of a teaspoonful
of onion juice, one teaspoonful of butter, and one well-beaten
egg. Remove the cucumbers from the water, dry thoroughly
and fill with the forcemeat. Pack them solidly and be careful
to have the ends of the cucumbers smooth. Lay them in a
stewpan. Pour over them one pint and a half of boiling veal
242 MRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
stock or chicken stock, adding one bay leaf. If the stock has
no seasoning, add one-half teaspoonful of salt and one-fifth of a
teaspoonful of white pepper. Cover and let them simmer for
three-quarters of an hour. When served, place the cucumber
on thin slices of toast. Cover with the following sauce and
serve at once : —
Sauce
Rub together until smooth three tablespoonfuls of butter,
one generous tablespoonful of flour, then add three gills of
Avhite stock, a bit of carrot the size of a quarter of a dollar, one
slice of onion the same size, a sprig of parsley, a clove, a bay
leaf and a little grating of nutmeg, half a teaspoonful of salt,
a fifth of a teaspoonful of white pepper. Simmer for half an
hour. Add one teaspoonful of lemon juice. Strain and serve.
Fried Egg Plant
Prepare a medium-sized egg plant two or three hours before
cooking. Peel and cut it in even slices about one-quarter of an
inch thick. Place them on a dish, sprinkle each slice with a
little salt and pepper. Put them in press with a heavy weight
on top. This will extract all the bitter taste. Dip each slice
in beaten egg, then in fine bread crumbs. Fry in hot fat until
a nice brown. Season with a little salt, drain on brown paper,
and serve very hot. If one prefer, the egg plant may be dipped
in thin batter instead of egg and crumbs, and cooked in the
same way.
Stuffed Egg Plant
Take two medium-sized egg plants. Cut off the stem, slit
lengthwise in halves, tracing the incisions inside. Fry the
plants until soft, then drain. Then take two ounces of butter,
two ounces of finely chopped pork, two ounces of finely chopped
shallots, one pint of chopped mushrooms. Stir and cook ten
minutes. With a tablespoon take up most of the fleshy part of
VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS FOODS 243
the egg plant, put with the above preparation, and season
with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley. Mix thoroughly and
put this stuffing in the egg plants on a baking dish. Sprinkle
with fresh bread crumbs and grated cheese — Parmesan or
American. Drop a little sweet oil over and bake light brown
in a pretty hot oven. Slide on a dish, pour a ladleful of brown
sauce round it, and serve.
Boiled Hominy
Wash one cup of white homin}^, and after draining, place in
a double boiler. Add one teaspoonful of salt and one quart of
boiling water. Boil moderately for one hour or until tender.
Braised Lettuce
Trim, wash, and scald twelve white heart cabbage lettuces.
Drain them on a cloth, cut and spread them open, season with
pepper and salt, tie each one up with a string, and place in
a pan on thin layers of fat bacon. Add a carrot, a small bou-
quet, and an onion with two cloves stuck in it. Cover with a
buttered piece of paper and moisten with the toj^pings from
white stock. Boil slowly by the side of the fire for fifty minutes.
Drain them on a sieve. Then remove the strings. Press them
neatly in a cloth and open each lettuce head with a knife.
Turn the ends of the leaves so as to give to the lettuce a
smooth, rounded end. Cut off the stalk and place each lettuce
head carefully in a saucepan. Strain the liquor they were
boiled in. Remove every particle of grease and boil down to
the consistency of a half glaze. Add it to the lettuce and
fifteen minutes before they are required set them in the oven to
get warm.
Fried Lima Beans
Put three pints of shelled Lima beans in salted boiling
water and cook until they are tender. Drain thoroughly and
put in a saucepan with four ounces of melted butter, salt and
244 3IRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
pepper to taste. Shake the pan over a brisk fire for a few
minutes, add finely chopped parsley and a little lemon juice.
Shake thoroughly, to mix all together, and serve.
Macaroni a la Reine
Take eight ounces of macaroni, break it in pieces three or
four inches long, wash it in cold water, and at once drop it
lightly and by degrees into a pan of boiling water. Let it boil
until the pipes are tender, which may be in about fifteen or
twenty minutes. When it is half done, add a tablespoon of
salt, and shake the pan now and then to keep the macaroni
free from the bottom. When cooked, turn it upon a sieve or
colander to drain. Have ready ten ounces of rich, well-flavored
white cheese, dissolved in a pint of cream. Add to the cream
and cheese a little salt, a rather full seasoning of cayenne, and a
couple of ounces of sweet butter. Lay the macaroni in a dish,
pour over it the cheese sauce, strew it thickly with cubes of
fine white bread fried a pale gold color and dried perfectly, and
serve. As a matter of precaution, it is well to boil the cream
before the cheese is melted in it.
The cheese should be sliced very thin and be quite free
from the hard part next the rind. It should be stirred in the
cream without ceasing until thoroughly dissolved and the
whole is perfectly smooth.
Macaroni Croquettes
Cook a quarter of a pound of macaroni in salted water,
drain and put in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, one
ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, salt and white pepper to
taste, and a ladleful of Allemande sauce. Mix thoroughly and
turn into a small buttered square tin pan. Cover it with a
buttered paper, then with another pan and a light weight.
When cold, turn it on the table, divide with a knife or oval
pastry cutter, roll each piece in grated cheese, dip in beaten
MACCAROXI TIMBALE.
V % 1^^!^"^^'"^^^^
Facing page 2UU.
POTATO ROSES.
(See p. 253.)
-'■>
^
VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS FOODS 245
egg, roll in fine bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Drain on
heavy brown paper and serve with grated Parmesan cheese in
a separate dish.
Macaroni a I'ltalienne
Break the macaroni in pieces about four inches long. Boil
it in hot water with a small lump of butter, a little salt and
white pepper. When done, drain it on a napkin. As soon as
it is dry, prepare the following sauce : Place one pint of tomato
sauce in a saucepan and add two lumps of butter. Mix the
whole well together. Sprinkle a layer of macaroni in the
bottom of a dish, cover with the sauce, and sprinkle with Par-
mesan cheese. Then spread the macaroni again, and so on until
the dish is full. Strew grated Parmesan cheese over the top,
place in hot oven for five minutes, and serve while quite hot.
Macaroni a la Solferino
To half a pound of macaroni, boiled in water and well
strained, add half an onion, a slice of raw ham chopped fine and
browned. Moisten the mixture with tomato sauce, and just
before serving sprinkle the whole with four or five tablespoons
of grated cheese.
Oyster Macaroni
Boil the macaroni in a cloth to keep it whole and when
thoroughly cooked, drain. Put a layer in a deep dish with salt,
white pepper, and butter, then a layer of medium-sized oysters
seasoned in the same way, then another layer of macaroni, and
so on until the dish is full. Mix fine bread crumbs with one
egg well beaten, spread over the top, and bake in moderate oven.
Boiled Macaroni or Spaghetti
Into a saucepan nearly full of boiling Wt^ter drop the
macaroni gradually. When half done, add a little salt. Keep
246 MBS. seely's cook book
the macaroni from sinking to the bottom by moving it with a
meat fork. When it is very tender, pour into a colander and
drain. Put half of the macaroni into a vegetable dish.
Sprinkle it with salt, pepper, and a little dry Coleman's mus-
tard, and over this pour melted butter. Add grated cheese.
Then lay on the other half of the macaroni and add the same
seasoning. Pour on melted butter, and with a fork turn the
macaroni over in the butter. Serve without baking.
Stewed Mushrooms
Take one pound of large and dry mushrooms. Peel and
wash them, drain thoroughly, and cut them in small squares.
Put them in an earthen bowl and pour over them one table-
spoonful of olive oil, a scant tablespoonful of salt, and a tea-
spoonful of white pepper. Let them soak for three hours.
Remove them, and let them stew in their own liquor for five
or six minutes. When tender, place them on dish and pour the
following sauce over them : Take three tablespoonfuls of olive
oil, one teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley, one-half teaspoon-
f ul of finely chopped chives, and one clove of crushed garlic.
Mix all, and stir over the fire until thoroughly heated.
Stuffed Mushrooms
Select twelve mushrooms as large as possible. Cut off the
heads, pare the edges, and wash them. Clean the stalks, wash
with the parings, and chop very fine. Squeeze out the water.
Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan with one tablespoonful
of chopped shallot. Fry a little, then stir in the chopped mush-
rooms, and fry until almost dry. Sprinkle with one-half ounce
of flour. Then mix well and moisten with a little broth, and
season to taste with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, also a
little chopped parsley. Stir and boil until quite thick. When
this mixture is partially cool, fill the mushroom heads. Place
VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS FOODS 247
tliem in a baking-disli, sprinkle each with bread crumbs and a
small piece of butter. Bake in moderate oven about fifteen
minutes. Place on a dish, pour Espagnole sauce round them,
and garnish with quarters of lemon.
Fried Mushrooms with Tomato Sauce
Take two pounds of fresh mushrooms, peel, and wash them
in water and a little vinegar to keep them as white as possible.
Drain, then slice the heads in two or three pieces, and chop up
the stalks. Have one-quarter of a pint of heated olive oil, add
the heads and fry until a light brown, then add two table-
spoons of chopped shallots, two bruised cloves of garlic, and the
chopped stalks. Drain most of the oil off, add two ladlefuls of
tomato sauce and a little melted beef extract. Season with
salt, white pepper, and a dash of cayenne. Boil two minutes,
shaking the saucepan all the time. Add a little lemon juice
and chopped parsley and pour in a deep dish.
Mushrooms a la Bindley
Have at hand two pounds of fresh and firm mushrooms.
Cut and trim the stalks, pare the heads, and wash them. Put
in a saucepan with a little water, four ounces of butter and the
juice of two lemons. Cook for five minutes over a brisk fire,
occasionally shaking the pan. Take the upper crust of four
French rolls, remove the inside, and fry the crust in clarified
butter. Mix the gravy the mushrooms were cooked in with
three pints of veloute sauce. Add four ounces of butter, the
yolks of four eggs, and white pepper to taste. Mix thoroughly
and rub through a wet cloth. Pour a little of this sauce in a
dish, arrange the crusts, hollow side uppermost, on the dish, put
the mushrooms in the sauce, heat thoroughly, then fill each
crust, taking care to have the largest and whitest mushrooms
on top.
248 MBS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Oatmeal
Place one cup of oatmeal in a double boiler, add one tea-
spoonful of salt, and one quart and a pint of boiling water.
Stir occasionally while it boils over a moderate fire for half an
hour, or until the flakes are tender. If too thick, it may be
thinned with boiling water.
Stewed Okra with Tomato Sauce
Pare both ends and wash the okra. Put in a saucepan with
salt and pepper, a ladlef ul of rich broth, and half a pint of tomato
sauce, and one-half pint of Espagnole sauce. Cover and stew
slowly for one-half hour. Dish carefully without breaking the
okra. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
Glazed Onions
Peel twelve medium-sized white onions and soak them for
one hour in cold water, changing the water twice while they
are soaking. Drain them on a sieve. Put two ounces of but-
ter in a saucepan. Add one teaspoonful of sugar and half a
cup of beef broth or stock. Arrange the onions in the pan so
they do not touch. Cook over a slow fire until they become
tender and the outside is brown. Remove the cover from the
saucepan, put a very little beef extract on top of each onion.
Then place the pan in the oven for five minutes. When the
extract melts and a nice glaze forms on the top of the onions,
they are ready to serve as a garnish or vegetable. If served as
a vegetable, the sauce they were cooked in may be poured over
them.
Glazed Onions
See Baked Calf's Liver, p. 161.
Creamed Onions
Having peeled the onions, cook them in salted water till
they are quite done to the core, which will be, if they are of
VEGETABLES AND FABINACEOUS FOODS 249
medium size, in an hour, or perhaps an hour and a half. By
the time they are tender the water should be pretty well cooked
out. Pour over them as they lie in the saucepan enough cream
to reach to their middle. Boil up, salt if necessary, dish by tak-
ing the onions out one by one with a cooking ladle, having care
not to break them, and pour over the hot cream and serve.
Stuffed Onions
Boil six large onions slowly for one hour in plenty of clear
water. Remove from the water, and with a sharp knife cut a
piece from the centre of each. Mix together two tablespoonfuls
of finely chopped ham, three tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs,
one tablespoonful of butter, three tablespoonfuls of milk or
cream, one egg^ one-half teaspoonful salt, and a grain of cay-
enne. Fill with this mixture the spaces cut in the onion.
Sprinkle each one with bread crumbs, one-half a teaspoonful of
butter on each onion. Place on earthen plates, and bake in
slow oven for one hour. Serve with cream sauce. Spanish
onions are the best to use.
Boiled Onions
Peel off the whole thick outer skin and lay the onions one-
half an hour in cold water. Pour hot water over them and
boil ten minutes. Pour off this water, add fresh water and a
teaspoon of salt, and boil until tender at the core, which will
take one hour or one hour and a half. Turn into a colander,
drain, with a spoon lay each onion in the vegetable dish. Sift
salt over each one, and pour over all a small quantity of melted
butter or hot cream, and finish with a dash of pepper.
Pried Parsley-
Soak parsley in ice water for two hours, so it will be crisp.
Dry thoroughly, arrange in frying basket, plunge in boiling
hot fat, leave for a second, remove basket from fat, shake it.
Plunge in fat once more, drain on brown paper, and serve.
250 MRS. seelt's cook book
Parsnip Cakes
Peel, cut in pieces, and cook some parsnips in salted water
in which a tablespoonful of flour has been mixed. When ten-
der, drain thoroughly, chop fine, and press through a fine col-
ander. Return to the saucepan, add salt, a little white pepper,
a little flour, and the beaten yolks of three eggs. Stir on the
fire for five minutes and put on a plate to cool. Then turn on
a floured table and divide in the shape and size of a small cod-
fish ball. Dip in beaten Qgg^ then in cracker crumbs. Fry
until light brown in very hot lard. Drain on brown paper,
garnish with parsley, and serve hot. These are very good with
pork chop.
Parsnip Balls
Parboil six large parsnips, let them get cold, then peel and
grate them. Beat two eggs until very light and mix thor-
oughly with the grated parsnips, adding sufficient flour to bind
the mixture together. Flour the hands, roll the mixture into
balls, and drop in deep boiling fat. Fry until a good brown,
drain on brown paper. Serve very hot.
Stewed Peas
Put one quart of young peas in a pan with plenty of water
and four ounces of butter. Rub the peas and butter together
until they are well mixed. Then drain off the water and put
the peas into a stewpan with two cabbage leaves shredded
small, a small bunch of parsley and green onions, one dessert-
spoonful of powdered sugar, and a little salt. Put the lid on
and stew the peas gently over a slow fire for about half an hour.
When done, if there seems to be much liquid, boil it down
quickly over the fire. Knead two ounces of fresh butter with
one dessert-spoonful of flour. Put this into the peas and toss
the whole together over the fire until well mixed.
VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS FOODS 251
Canned Peas
Pour the peas in a colander. Rinse by pouring through
plenty of water. Add three large iron spoons of cold water,
salt, a little sugar, enough so they will taste like a sweet pea,
and a lump of butter. Set the saucepan in another of hot
water, cover, and cook half an hour.
Peppers with Tomato Stuffing
Immerse as many medium-sized peppers as desired in boiling
fat for one-half a minute, rub them with a towel to remove the
peel. Cut round the stem or core, remove it and the seeds.
Fill with a tomato stuffing, put in a pan, baste frequently with
olive oil, and bake in moderate oven for half an hour. Place
on a platter, pour a tomato sauce round them, and serve.
Tomato Stuffing
Take two ounces of butter, two tablespoonfuls of olive oil,
two of finely chopped onions, and a pint of chopped mushrooms.
Stir and fry about twelve minutes, seasoning with salt, white
pepper, and a dash of cayenne, a little nutmeg, one ladleful of
Espagnole sauce, and one of tomato sauce. Then add three
handfuls of fresh bread crumbs, yolks of four eggs, and one
tablespoonful chopped parsley. Mix thoroughly. Cook three
minutes longer. Set away to cool.
Potatoes
Potatoes for baking or boiling whole should be of the same
size, thoroughly washed and scrubbed with a brush kept for the
purpose. They should bake in a hot oven from thirty to forty -
five minutes, according to their size, and to boil have enough
boiling salted water to cover them, and boil about thirty min-
utes. Pare before boiling, except for salad.
252 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Plain boiled potatoes are served whole or rubbed through a
fine colander and served like rice, or mashed and seasoned with
salt, white pepper, butter, and milk, and served in mass or in
fancy shapes and browned. Parisienne potatoes are cut in balls
with a French ball-cutter, boiled ten or twelve minutes, and
dressed with melted butter, salt, white pepper, and minced pars-
ley, or sifted hard-boiled egg yolk. Baked potatoes are often
cut lengthwise, removed from the skin, mashed, seasoned, and
made light with whipped egg white or cream. The skins are
then refilled, placed in the oven until brown, and served as
souffle potatoes. Raw potatoes are sliced thin or cut in straws,
dice, balls, crescents, curls, etc., and fried in deep hot fat. All
peeled potatoes should stand in cold water until they are boiled
or fried. If fried, dry thoroughly before dropping in hot fat.
Cold boiled potatoes are cut in dice or thin slices, seasoned with
salt and pepper, and fried brown in very hot drippings or butter,
with a little chopped onion and parsley.
German Potato Cakes
This well-known German dish has been made a part of the
cookery of our country, introduced by many of our German
families. In making it grate the potatoes raw, add butter to
enrich it, eggs and flour to hold the grated potato together, a
little salt, and season with sugar and cinnamon to taste. The
cakes are fried in butter on a griddle or in a flat saucepan till
brown.
Stewed Potatoes
Chop cold boiled potatoes rather fine and salt carefully.
Add milk — just even with the potatoes — and a large table-
spoon of butter. Place this in a saucepan and cover. Set it in
another pan of boiling water. Stir occasionally and cook one
hour until creamy.
POTATO BALLS.
Facing page 25
POTATO BALLS.
PrjBLIG
VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS FOODS 253
Potato Ribbons
Peel the potatoes, then peel round and round very thinly.
Let the ribbons lie in cold water for an hour. Drain and
plunge in hot fat, using a frying basket. Drain off the fat on
paper and serve hot.
Potato Croquettes
Add to the boiled and mashed potatoes half their weight of
butter, and seasoning of salt and pepper, a trifle of onion, minced
fine, and two well-beaten eggs. Form them in egg^ ball, or
cork shaj^e, dip them in the beaten yolk of eggs and then into
bread crumbs. Cover them, and let them stand for an hour or
so. Dip them again in the egg and bread crumbs and fry in
deep hot fat. Garnish with parsley and serve hot. Let them
drain a moment before serving.
Pockets of Gold
Prepare the potatoes as for croquettes in the receipt given
above. Scoop out the centre of each croquette and fill in with
this salpicon : Mince cooked chicken, not too fine, but rather
in dice size. Heat it with butter and add cooked mushroom
dice and cooked pickled tongue dice, with salt and pepper for a
flavoring. Thicken this salpicon with the yolk of egg in which
has been stirred a dash of sugar, a few drops of lemon juice,
and of some aromatic wine. After you have packed the salpi-
con in the potato ball, press a little of the potato over the open-
ing. Dip the ball in the beaten yolk of egg, then into bread
crumbs, and fry in deep hot fat. Drain them on paper and
serve them hot.
Sweet Potato Croquettes
Mix one pint of mashed sweet potatoes with one-half cupful
of hot milk. Then stir in two tablespoonfuls of butter and one
254 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
teaspoonful of salt. Beat one egg very light and add to the
mixture. Next shape them in the desired sized croquettes.
Dip in beaten egg, then roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat
until a delicate brown. Drain on brown paper and serve hot.
"Wined Sweet Potatoes
Boil the potatoes and set them to cool. When cold, peel
and slice them. In a w^ell-buttered baking dish spread a layer
of the potatoes, sprinkle with butter, sugar, and a little salt,
then another layer of potatoes, butter, and other ingredients,
and so continue the layers until the dish is full, having laid on
top a plentiful supply of butter. Put a little water in the dish
to prevent dryness, invert over the baking dish another dish
that will hold in the steam pretty well, and set to bake in a
moderate oven. After the potatoes are thoroughly heated,
take off the covering dish, let them brown a trifle, and just
before taking from the oven pour over them a little wine of a
flavor agreeing with the potatoes.
Rice Croquettes with Sauce
Wash one pound of rice and put it in a saucepan with three
pints of milk, six ounces of granulated sugar, two ounces of
butter, and the rind of a lemon. Stir until it comes to a boil,
then cover, and cook one-half hour. Remove the lemon, add
the yolks of four eggs, mix well, and partially cool. Sprinkle
fine bread crumbs on a board, turn the rice on them, divide and
roll in a dozen large, cork-shaped croquettes. Dip in beaten
egg, roll in fresh bread crumbs, and fry light brown in deep hot
fat. Drain on brown paper, roll in powdered sugar, and serve
hot on a folded napkin with sauce in separate dish.
Sauce for Rice Croquettes
Yolks of four eggs, four ounces of sugar, one ounce of corn-
starch, and the finely chopped rind of one lemon. Mix thor-
VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS FOODS 255
ouglily, add one pint of boiling milk. Stir with an egg-beater
over the fire until the sauce thickens.
Rice Fritters
Boil a cup of rice in a pint of milk until the rice is soft and
the milk is absorbed. Take from the fire and add the yolks of
three eggs, one tablespoon of sugar, a small spoon of salt, and
two tablespoons of butter. When the mixture grows cold, add
the whites of the eggs beaten stiff. Drop in large spoonfuls in
hot fat and let them cook until they are a golden brown.
Spanish Rice
One cup of rice in two quarts of boiling salted water. Boil
fifteen minutes. Pour into a fine sieve. Place the sieve over
boiling water and steam the rice for thirty minutes. Chop
one-half can of Spanish peppers very fine. Mix with the rice
and serve. The dish may be used as a garnish for boiled ham
or mutton.
Spaghetti with Tomato Sauce
Place the ends of a handful of spaghetti in a kettle of boiling
salted water. As it softens, bend and coil it round in the ket-
tle. Put a cover on and cook fifteen or twenty minutes, or
until tender. Drain in a colander. Then return to the kettle
with enough tomato sauce to make it quite moist, a third of
a cup of grated cheese, — American or Parmesan, — one table-
spoonful of butter, and a dash of paprika. Cook slowly until
the sauce is about absorbed.
Spinach on Toast
Boil the spinach in salted water until half done. Pour off
the hot water, dash cold water over the vegetable, and having
wiped it dry, chop it fine and put it in a saucepan. Make a
sauce of one tablespoon of flour, the same quantity of butter,
256 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
and a cup of cream or bouillon. Mix this sauce well with the
spinach. Cover the saucepan and cook until it thickens.
Serve on small slices of buttered toast.
Spinach mixed with sorrel or young nettles is prepared
in this way, except when sorrel is used some sugar is also
added.
Spinach Timbale
Boil one peck of spinach in just enough water to cover it
and add two tablespoonfuls of salt. When tender, drain thor-
oughly, chop very fine, and set away to cool. Then put it in a
saucepan with one-half pint of Bechamel sauce, one-quarter of a
pint of stock, and two ounces of butter. Let this simmer slowly
for five minutes. When cool, mix this with six ounces of veal
forcemeat, the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, a little black
pepper, and more salt if necessary. Place in a well-buttered
mould and set in a pan of water. Cover with a buttered paper
and bake in oven for forty-five minutes. Boil two potatoes,
one turnip, and one carrot. When tender, cut them in fancy
shapes and cover with a glaze. Invert timbale on platter and
garnish with the glazed vegetables.
Succotash
Cut tender, juicy corn from its cobs till you have a quart
of the cut corn. Cover the corn and set it away. Break in
small pieces the cobs of the corn and put them to boil with a
pint of beans. After the flavor is extracted from the cobs,
take them out and let the beans cook till done. Then add the
quart of corn you set aside and at the same time add salt,
pepper, and cream to your taste. The water in which the cobs
and beans boil should not be plentiful when the corn is added ;
it should be allowed to boil away so there is little liquid in the
dish except the cream. Butter and milk may be used instead
of cream.
VEGETABLES ANt> FARINACEOUS FOODS 257
Broiled Tomatoes
Pour boiling water over as many good-sized ripe tomatoes
as you desire. Remove the skins, cut them in two — across,
not lengthwise. Season with salt and baste with a little oil.
Put them on a double broiler and broil over a slow fire. Baste
them often with olive oil. When done, serve on a hot dish.
Fried Tomatoes
Pour boiling water over some large, ripe tomatoes. Remove
the skins and place where they will become cold and firm. Do
not let them stand too long. Have at hand a kettle of boiling
fat. Slice the tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, dip in
beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, again in egg and bread
crumbs, arrange in a frying basket, and plunge it in the hot
fat. In a minute or two they should be a light brown and suf-
ficiently cooked. Drain on brown paper and serve very hot.
Stuffed Tomatoes
Wipe clean and remove a thin slice from the stem end of
six smooth, ripe tomatoes. Take out the seeds and pulp, being
careful not to break the skin. Turn upside down to drain.
Rub the pulp through a fine sieve, and mix with an equal
amount of fine buttered cracker crumbs, one-half the amount
of very fine chopped meat, or chopped oysters, or cooked spa-
ghetti. Season highly with salt, pepper, onion juice, or fried
onions chopped fine. Heap the tomato shells with this mix-
ture, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake twenty minutes.
Spanish Tomatoes
One can of tomatoes, one can of Spanish peppers, two me-
dium-sized onions, two tablespoons of butter. Chop the onions
fine and fry in the butter until a light brown. Then to the
258 MBS. seely's cook book
Spanish peppers chopped fine, add tlie tomatoes. Mix all
thoroughly and cook over a medium fire five minutes, adding
salt and white pepper to taste. Pour in baking dish and bake
in medium oven three-quarters of an hour. Green peppers may
be used in place of Spanish peppers.
Devilled Tomatoes
Powder the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs and mix with
one teaspoonful of mustard paste, one teaspoonful of powdered
sugar, a dash of cayenne, and a little salt. Melt three ounces
of butter and rub it in. Then gradually stir in three table-
spoonfuls of vinegar. Stir all over the fire until it is scalding
hot. Remove to one side, add two well-beaten eggs, and stir
over the fire until the mixture begins to thicken. Stand the
saucepan in hot water to keep warm while you slice one quart
of ripe tomatoes about half an inch thick and broil them.
Place in hot dish and pour the sauce over them and serve at
once.
Tomato Parcie
Select six nice, small, fresh tomatoes, and scald by pouring
boiling water over them. Remove the skin, scoop out the
inside, and set in an ice-box. Cook some sweetbreads and
put them through the meat machine. Also chop fine some
mushrooms and mix them with the sweetbreads. Chop
fine two truffles and set them aside. Make a sauce of the
following ; One tablespoonful of butter and one tablespoonful
of flour put in a saucepan and let come to a boil. Then
add one cupful of white stock and the inside of the tomatoes.
Let all boil well ten minutes. Add chopped truffies, some
chopped parsley, and season to taste. Mix the forcemeat w^ith
the sauce and stuffed tomatoes. Bake until tender, and serve
on rings of toast which are cut with biscuit cutter and fried
in hot fat.
VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS FOODS 259
Baked Tomatoes
Take out the core of the tomato and season highly with
salt, pepi3er, and one-half teaspoon of sugar. On each place a
good-sized piece of butter. Sprinkle over with bread crumbs
and bake an hour. Protect them with a pan of water in the
upper oven.
Tomato Toast with Mushrooms
Empty in a porcelain saucepan a can of fine tomatoes, or if
they are in season stew the tomatoes fresh for the dish. Cook
and flavor with pepper, salt, and butter. Toast thin slices of
stale white bread, butter, cover each slice with the stewed and
seasoned tomatoes, and upon it lay a peeled mushroom. Butter
the mushrooms and over each sprinkle pepper if your taste
demands it.
Tomatoes and Mushrooms
Take a can of tomatoes, a dash of cayenne pepper, a heap-
ing teaspoon of corn-starch wet with milk, and allow all to sim-
mer till the corn-starch is cooked. Then add a teaspoon of
grated or finely chopped onions, a can of mushrooms, and a
good tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce. Cook together thor-
oughly fifteen or twenty minutes.
Mashed Turnip
Pare entirely from the turnips the stringy rind, split them
once, or even twice if they are large, and boil them till they
are very tender. They take some time longer than potatoes to
cook. When boiled, pour off the water, pressing them tenderly
with a large plate to free them as much as possible from water.
Mash them as you mash potato, but to insure their being free
from lumps you may pass them through a colander or sieve.
When they are young, they may be mashed smooth without
260 MRS. seely's cook book
this. Put them in a saucepan and stir them constantly for
some minutes over a gentle fire to dry them, then add salt, a
bit of fresh butter, and, if you wish, a little cream or milk.
They should be simmered until the liquid is dried out. Mould
low in a vegetable dish, dash pepper and lay bits of butter over
the top, and serve.
Turnip Dice
For this method of cooking, the turnips should be young,
mild, and fine-grained. After you have washed, dried, and
peeled the turnips, slice them half an inch thick and cut the
slices into dice. Dissolve an ounce of butter for each half
pound of the turnips, drop them in the butter, and stew them
very gently from three-quarters of an hour to a full hour.
Season with salt and white pepper when they are half done.
Serve as a vegetable or piled on broiled mutton chops.
Vegetables a la Jardiniere
Have at hand one can of French peas or one quart of fresh
ones, a pint of carrot cubes, and one pint of turnip cubes, three
gills of any kind of stock, three heaping teaspoonfuls of butter,
three teaspoonfuls of sugar, and three teaspoonfuls of salt.
Cook the vegetables until tender in separate saucepans. If
French peas are used, put them in a strainer and pour over
them one quart of cold water, drain, and place in a saucepan.
Drain the water from the carrots and turnips. In each sauce-
pan place one-third of the sugar, butter, salt, and stock, and set
them where they will boil rapidly. Occasionally shake the
pans, continue the cooking until all the stock has been absorbed.
Spread the turnips on a platter, making the border rather thick.
Heap the carrots on the turnips, then flatten the top of the
mould, and heap the peas upon it. If desired, potato balls or
cubes may be used in place of the turnip ; if so, one quart of
the balls or cubes will be required.
CHAPTER X
SANDWICHES, EGG AND CHEESE DISHES, AND FORCEMEATS
How to make Good Sandwiches
In the first place have bread which is close-grained and one
day old. Each slice should be cut evenly and about one-eighth
of an inch thick. Spread each slice with butter before you cut
it from the loaf. After cutting, spread the slice with any mix-
ture you may desire and cover it with another slice. Cut off
every bit of crust and press the sandAviches together firmly.
Cut your sandwiches in half, each half in quarters, and each
quarter diagonally. Trim off all protruding edges of filling.
Cover the sandwiches with a cloth wet with a very weak solu-
tion of brandy and water and pack them in a tin box until ready
for use. Fresh butter is preferable for sandwiches, as it is
more dainty and delicate. If not obtainable, use best creamery
butter. Many people when eating a sandwich spread with fish
prefer Graham bread in place of white bread.
Fillings for Dainty Sandwiches
In making butters of various kinds for sandwiches, first rub
the butter to a cream, then blend it with the flavor wanted —
caviar, anchovy, sardine, lobster, cheese, parsley, chives, cress,
chutney, chili, and horseradish are all used. A few drops of
lemon juice improves any kind of fish sandwich. With an
anchovy sandwich also add a few olives stoned and minced very
fine.
Wash a dozen anchovies and remove the bones. Reduce to
a fineness by pounding the anchovies and the yolks of three
261
262 MRS. seely's cook book
hard-boiled eggs. Mix in a little curry powder, two tablespoon-
fuls of Parmesan clieese, a sprinkling of cayenne, and enough
good thick cream to make a smooth paste. Spread on slices of
bread lightly buttered, and the result will be some very accept-
able sandwiches.
Another idea in the way of sandwiches is to make the filling
of horseradish grated and mixed with mayonnaise and thick
cream. Spread this on the bread in the place of butter, lay a
thin slice of cold roast beef over, then a slice of seasoned tomato,
and finally add the other piece of bread, also spread with the
horseradish.
Still another variation may be obtained by finely mincing
some olives, mixing them with mayonnaise and with cream,
and spreading them over nicely sliced bread. Lay in between
a slice of beef or mutton and a thin piece of seasoned
tomato. When the bread is spread with some savory butter
and covered with sliced cold roast beef and with either a small
leaf of lettuce or with a bit of sliced cucumber, the sandwich
is appetizing.
Savory butters are most easily prepared. Many of them
demand the fresh butter. Caviar butter, for instance, needs
two tablespoonfuls of fresh butter which should be creamed,
then mixed with one teaspoonful of lemon juice, a dash of pa-
prika, and three tablespoonfuls of caviar paste. Curry butter
is made by creaming one tablespoonful of curry powder. Sar-
dine butter makes a good sandwich filling all by itself. To
make it, remove the skin and bone from three large sardines.
Pound them to a smoothness and add a little lemon juice, cay-
enne, and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Cream two
tablespoonfuls of fresh butter and add, mixing all together very
thoroughly. Sometimes some chopped olives are added to this
butter, which is then used on the bread, the sandwich filling
proper being composed of sardines boned and skinned and fla-
vored with lemon juice.
SANDWICHES, EGG AND CHEESE DISHES 263
Peanuts mixed with mayonnaise dressing are much liked
for afternoon sandwiches. Take the freshly roasted nuts and
chop or roll them very fine before mixing with the dressing.
Another excellent sandwich spreading for white or brown
bread is made by mixing chopped olives and small crisp cucum-
ber pickles — equal parts of these — with a seasoning of capers.
Stir tliem together with a thick mayonnaise and spread on the
bread. A vegetable coloring made from spinach will give a
green color to the sauce, if that is sought.
Dates and figs chopped very fine and moistened with hot
Avater and lemon juice may be spread on thin slices of bread
and sprinkled with finely chopped nuts. Finely minced ginger
and candied orange peel may be sprinkled on Neufchatel cheese
which has been moistened with a little butter or rich cream and
spread on buttered slices of bread.
Another filling for sandwiches is Oriental preserved ginger
chopped fine and softened by mixing with a little cold cream.
Candied orange peel and candied cherries may also be used in
this way.
Caviar Sandwiches
Take a one-quarter pound box of Russian caviar and the
juice of half a lemon and as much olive oil as you have lemon.
Alternately drop the oil and lemon juice into the caviar until
all is used. Then whip it until you have a firm white paste.
Follow general directions for making a sandwich, but do not
butter the bread. Spread the caviar quite thickly on the
bread.
Cheese Sandwich
Pound one-quarter of a pound of American cheese in a
mortar with two ounces of butter and one teaspoonful of
dry mustard. When thoroughly blended, add a little tar-
ragon vinegar. Spread on thin slices of bread and it is ready
to serve.
2Q4: MRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
Roquefort Cheese Sandwich
To three parts of the green of Roquefort cheese use one part
of butter, a little olive oil, pepper, a little salt, and a dash of red
pepper. Mix all into a paste and spread on thin slices of but-
tered bread.
Chopped Chicken Sandwich
Take the white meat of chicken, chop it very fine, and mix
it with mayonnaise dressing and a few olives chopped very fine.
Spread the mixture between evenly sliced pieces of buttered
bread. Use enough mayonnaise to make a chicken paste.
Chicken and Almond Sandwich
Chop the white meat of a chicken very fine and add half a
pound of finely chopped almonds, two teaspoons of salt, one gill
of sweet, thick cream, and a saltspoon of pepper. Mix these
ingredients until you have a smooth paste. Whole wheat
bread is best for these sandwiches.
Indian Sandwiches
Cut the white meat of a cooked chicken in small pieces.
Take almost as much cooked ham and four freshened anchovies
and cut in small pieces. Mix two cups of veloute sauce with
one dessertspoonful of curry powder which has been blended
with a little water. Stir over the fire until it becomes a thick
sauce. Then add the chicken, etc., and the juice of half a
lemon. Cut some thin slices of bread with a circular tin cutter
about one and a half inches in diameter. Fry them in clarified
butter until a light brown. Place one-half of the pieces on a
tin sheet, spread with a thick layer of the chicken mixture.
Then cover with the pieces of bread. Cream some grated Par-
mesan cheese and butter to a paste, roll into round balls.
Place one on the top of each sandwich. About five minutes
before serving place them in the oven and warm thoroughly.
SANDWICHES, EGG AND CHEESE DISHES 265
Lettuce and Mayonnaise Sandwiches
Season the yolks of seven hard-boiled eggs with salt and
pepper, powder them, and then mix with enough mayonnaise to
make a thin paste. Have slices of bread sparingly spread with
the mayonnaise, cover each one with some of the small leaves
from the heart of the lettuce. Over the lettuce spread the egg
mixture. Follow directions about cutting them. Serve as
soon as possible.
Salmon Sandwiches
Take a nice solid piece of boiled salmon, mince it very fine,
and season to taste with pepper, salt, and a little Worcester-
shire sauce. Mix all into a paste with melted butter. Make
a highly seasoned French dressing of vinegar, oil, pepper and
salt, and pour over cucumbers which have been peeled and
sliced very thin. Then set them on the ice for fifteen or
twenty minutes. Evenly spread two thin slices of unbuttered
bread with the salmon mixture. Put a slice of cucumber
between them and shape sandwich according to the general
rule. You may prepare your bread spread with salmon one-
half or three-quarters of an hour before serving, but the
cucumbers should be added at the last moment. Canned
salmon may be used. If it is, use the butter sparingly.
Sandwiches of Fillets of Sole, Lobster, or Salmon
Cook the fillets of sole in a saucepan with a little clarified
butter, pepper, salt, and lemon juice. When done, put them in
press between two dishes. When cold, divide each fillet into
four pieces, trim, and put in a bowl with a French dressing
made of white pepper, salt, vinegar, and oil. Have some small
oval rolls at hand, cut off the tops and remove the crumbs,
moisten the bottom of each roll with a little of the dressing,
place a piece of sole on this, add a little mayonnaise sauce,
cover with the tops, and serve. Sandwiches of lobster and
266 MBS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
salmon are prepared in the same manner. If desired each one
may have a little finely chopped onion sprinkled over it before
the mayonnaise is added.
Sardine Sandwiches
Take as many boneless sardines as are required, open each
one lengthwise, being careful not to break them, and place the
halves on a fine wire broiler. When they have broiled a little
on each side, set them away to cool. When cold, squeeze a
little lemon juice over them, and cut off the tails. If fresh
butter is used on the bread, sprinkle a little salt over the sar-
dines while they are hot. Allow two halves to a triangle of
bread, and make according to directions. Ordinary canned
sardines may be used without broiling, but they are apt to be
very oily.
Sandwiches a la Victoria
Have at hand one dozen or more very small, round rolls,
cut a small piece from the end of each one, remove the crumbs,
and fill with the following mixture : Remove the white meat
from one good-sized cooked chicken, have almost as much ham
as you have chicken, and freshen eight anchovies and drain
them. Chop all very fine and mix thoroughly. Add enough
mayonnaise, flavored with a few chopped chives, to make
a thick paste. Fill each roll, replace the ends, and serve
on a folded napkin. Lobster may be used in place of the
chicken.
Baskets of Olives
First have hard-boiled eggs from the end of which you chip
a piece so that the Qgg will stand. Halve the eggs. Next
pound to a paste in a mortar the flesh of olives, a quarter as
much ham and chicken, butter to help the paste, and the yolks
of the whites you purpose to use as baskets.
SANDWICHES, EGG AND CHEESE DISHES 267
Having well mixed these, stand the whites in a dish, fill up
their hollows with the mixture, heaping it high and rounding
it over mountain form with a spoon, drop over the baskets any
piquant sauce you like, and serve. In the mixture allow about
three olives to two eggs.
Baked Eggs
Take six eggs, two tablespoonfuls of chopped chicken, two
tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, one tablespoonful of
chopped parsley, one-half teaspoonful of ground mace, salt
to taste, and a very small dash of cayenne pepper. Boil the
eggs fifteen minutes, remove the shells, cut them in half,
remove the yolks, and mash them fine. Add all the other
ingredients, mix thoroughly, and fill the hollowed whites. Heap
in pyramid shape, brush over with yolk of raw egg, and put
in the oven to brown. While they are browning, broil a slice
of ham and cut it in as many squares as you have eggs. Make
a cream sauce, serve the eggs on the squares of ham, and pour
the sauce round them.
Egg Chops with Tomato Sauce
Mix one-half cup of finely chopped ham and one-half cup
of finely chopped chicken with enough white sauce to keep
them together. Form them in the shape of good-sized lamb
chop. Chop four hard-boiled eggs very fine and season them
with a little salt and white pepper. Mix with enough white
sauce to make them the same consistency as the chicken and
ham and give them the same shape. Place one on the top of
each ham and chicken chop, dip in beaten egg, and roll in
cracker crumbs, then in egg and cracker crumbs again. Fry
in deep hot fat. When brown, drain on brown paper. Arrange
on platter. Pour tomato sauce round the edge and serve.
Have extra tomato sauce in sauce-boat.
268 MES. seely's cook book
"Egg Croquettes
Cool six hard-boiled eggs, chop them very fine, and season
them with a little salt and white pepper. Mix them with
enough white sauce to make them keep together and form
them into croquettes. Roll them in beaten egg, then in
cracker crumbs, and fry in deep hot fat. Garnish with pars-
ley and serve white sauce in sauce-boat.
Devilled Eggs
Take twelve eggs, one teaspoonful of French mustard, two
tablespoonfuls of cold tongue chopped fine, one tablespoonful
of olive oil, one-half teaspoonful of onion juice, and salt and red
pepper to taste. Boil the eggs fifteen minutes and place them
in cold water; this prevents them from turning dark. Take
off the shells, cut lengthwise, and remove the yolks, being
careful not to break the white. Rub the yolks to a smooth
paste with the mustard and oil, then add the chopped tongue,
salt, and red pepper. Mix thoroughly, fill the hollowed whites
with this mixture, and serve on a bed of water-cress or salad.
Eggs in Nest of Spinach
Boil four quarts of spinach, chop it very fine, season with
salt and pepper, rub it through a puree sieve, mix it with a
little butter, and add more salt and pepper if necessary. Do
not have it too moist. Have at hand some very finely cooked
ham and some veloute sauce. Cut some rings of bread.
Spread the spinach on the bottom and sides of each one.
Break an egg in the centre of each one. Place in the oven,
cook for a few minutes. Mix the chopped ham and veloute
sauce to a very thick cream, spread over the top, replace in the
oven, and cook five or six minutes more. Serve with a cream
sauce.
SANDWICHES, EGG AND CHEESE DISHES 269
Eggs a la Suisse
Spread the bottom of dish with fresh butter, cover this
with thin slices of Gruyere cheese, break eight eggs over the
cheese, the same as for poaching, season with salt and white
pepper, then pour a scant gill of very thick cream on the sur-
face, sprinkle with Gruyere cheese, and bake in hot oven for
fifteen minutes. Rub a salamander over the top, serve with
thin pieces of dry toast.
Egg Balls
See Mock-turtle Soup, p. 82.
Egg Timbale
Break six eggs in a bowl, season with salt and white pepper,
whip until very light, add one gill of cream, and pour in small
buttered timbale moulds. Place the mould in a pan of water
and then in an oven, and poach the eggs until firm. Invert
the moulds on hot platter, garnish with parsley, and serve with
Bechamel sauce.
Curried Eggs
Mix two tablespoons of corn-starch or wheat flour, a pinch
of salt, and two teaspoons of curry to a smooth paste with a
little milk, and pour into one scant quart of boiling milk.
Stir until the mixture thickens. Then having carefully broken
your eggs, slip them into the boiling milk. Let them cook
until the white sets, which will be about two and a half min-
utes. Then lift the eggs out with a ladle, lay each on a bit of
toast neatly trimmed, pour over it a good ladleful of the curry
and milk, — enough, that is, for the toast to absorb, — and serve
hot.
Poached Eggs
The beauty of a poached egg is to have the yolk blushing
through the white. Have a pan of fresh boiling water, break
270 MBS. seely's cook book
the egg in a saucer, pull the pan to one side, drop in the eggs,
one at a time. Then stand the pan over a moderate fire. As
soon as the water boils, the eggs are done. Remove, trim off
the ragged edges, and serve on hot buttered toast.
Poached Eggs with Mushrooms
Put a quarter of a pound of mushrooms in a saucepan. Add
salt, pepper, a little lemon juice, and a tablespoon of butter.
After the mixture has cooked slowly for fifteen minutes, add a
third of a wine-glass of wine and a gill of Bechamel sauce, and
boil for a moment longer.
Pour the sauce in the midst of ten or twelve freshly poached
eggs, heaping the mushrooms in a mound in the centre. If the
mushrooms are of the button variety, a button may be placed
in the centre of each egg.
To boil and poach Eggs, according to Directions issued by the
Department of Agriculture of the United States
"The directions given for preparing soft-cooked, medium-
cooked, and hard-cooked eggs vary. The methods described
in standard cookery books without doubt give the desired
results if sufficient care is exercised. The chief difficulty
encountered by most cooks is to secure uniform results, espe-
cially with soft-cooked and medium-cooked eggs. It must be
remembered that such results cannot be expected when condi-
tions vary. The time of cooking, the amount of water used,
the number, size, and freshness of the eggs, and the kind of
vessels used are important factors. Thus, eggs which have
been kept in an ice-chest require more heat to warm them
before cooking begins than do those which have been kept at
room temperature. Again, so apparently trivial a detail as
the sort of vessel used (whether earthen or metal) or the place
where the vessel stands during cooking may produce very dif-
SANDWICHES, EGG AND CHEESE DISHES 271
ferent results. Many persons prefer to have eggs cooked at table
in a chafinQf-disli or other suitable vessel. In such cases the con-
ditions may be controlled with comparative ease, and uniform re-
sults obtained with a little practice if sufficient care is observed.
"The following methods of preparing soft-cooked and
medium-cooked eggs have been found to give uniform results
in laboratory tests at the University of Illinois : Using a gran-
iteware stewpan of one quart capacity, one pint of water was
heated over a gas flame ; when the water boiled the gas was
turned off, and an egg which had been kept in a refrigerator
was dropped into the water. Without disturbing the vessel
it was covered closely, and the egg allowed to remain in the
water six minutes. It was then soft-cooked. As shown by
tests when the egg was dropped into the water, the temperature
fell almost at once to 185° P\, and then slowly to 170-171° F.
If the egg remained in the water eight minutes, it was medium-
cooked. In this case the temperature of the water at the end
of the cooking period had fallen to 162-164° F.
" Uniform results can be obtained in the kitchen as well as
in the laboratory if sufficient attention is given to detail. Bear-
ing clearly in mind the end desired, each cook must experiment
for herself, as it is impossible to give directions which will
apply to all cases.
" The same changes which have been noted above as taking
place in egg yolk and white, when heat is applied, in preparing
boiled eggs, take place when other methods of cooking are fol-
lowed, though they are not always apparent.
" Poached or dropped eggs are removed from the shell and
then cooked in water. Thudichum recommends the use of
salted water to which a very little vinegar has been added.
The reason for this is, perhaps, that acetic acid (vinegar) tends
to precipitate albumen, that is, to prevent a loss due to some
of the egg being dissolved in the water. Flavor may also be
one of the objects sought."
272 MES. seely's cook book
Scrambled Eggs on Canapes
Select four large, heavy mushrooms and four a little
smaller. Remove the stems, peel, wash and dry, and chop
them very fine. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a pan, and
when it has melted add one teaspoonful of finely chopped green
onions. Cook slowly for three minutes, but do not let them
brown. Add the chopped mushrooms and cook two or three
minutes more. Stir constantly, adding one tablespoonful of
finely chopped parsley. Cook for a few minutes. Season with
half a saltspoonful of salt and one-quarter of a saltspoonful of
white pepper. Remove from the range, stir in a small piece
of fresh butter. Mix thoroughly, then add six eggs, one salt-
spoonful of salt, and half a one of pepper. Beat briskly for one
minute. Pour in a hot saucepan with half a tablespoonful of
butter and stir constantly over a slow fire for three or four min-
utes. The mixture must be in small pieces and cooked quite rare.
Have ready the eight mushrooms broiled. Arrange the larger
of the broiled mushrooms on thin slices of warm bread. Fill
each one with the egg^ cover with the smaller boiled mushrooms.
This dish must be served very hot and the mushrooms must
be cooked first, as the eggs must be served as soon as they are
cooked.
Scrambled Eggs with Peas
Take six eggs, one tablespoon of butter, three tablespoons
of milk, salt and pepper to taste, and one-half pint of cooked
peas. Heat the butter and milk in an omelette pan. Break
the eggs in a pan and stir till the mixture thickens. Have
the peas very hot in another pan. Drain off all the liquid
from the peas. Stir them in the eggs, season, and serve hot.
Plain Omelette
Beat separately the yolks and whites of eight eggs until
very light. Then mix them together thoroughly, add a little
SANDWICHES, EGG AND CHEESE DISHES 273
salt and white pepper, and one tablespoonful of cream. Heat
the omelette pan, pnt a good-sized piece of butter in, and,
when it has become boiling hot, pour in the eggs. Slightly
shake the pan until the eggs begin to stiffen. When suffi-
ciently brown, fold double and serve at once. When an ome-
lette stands, it becomes heavy.
Oyster Omelette
Chop one dozen large, fresh oysters in small pieces,
sprinkle half a teaspoonful of salt over them, and let them
stand in their own liquor, in a cool place, for half an hour.
Beat six eggs, the yolks and whites apart; the former to a
smooth paste, the latter to a solid froth. Add to the yolks a
tablespoonful of rich, sweet cream, pepper and salt in sufficient
quantity, and then lightly stir in the whites. Put an ounce
and a half of butter in a hot frying pan, and, when it is thor-
oughly melted and begins to fry, pour in the egg mixture, and
add as quickly as possible the oysters. Do not stir, but with
a long-bladed omelette knife lift, as the eggs set, the omelette
from the pan, to prevent its scorching. In five minutes it will
be done. Place a hot dish, bottom upward, over the omelette,
and dexterously turn the pan over, having the brown side of
the omelette uppermost upon the dish. Serve without delay.
Spanish Omelette
Take one teaspoonful of chopped onion and one tablespoon-
ful of green pepper. Be sure both are chopped very fine and
cook them until they are a delicate brown. Scald and remove
the skins of three tomatoes, cut up and add to the mixture.
Cook all for ten minutes, or until the tomatoes are done.
Break six eggs in a bowl, beat them well and season. Mix in
about one-half of the tomato, pepper, and onion. Put one
tablespoonful of butter in an omelette pan and let it come to a
boil. Put in the egg mixture ; and when it begins to set, put
274 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
in the centre the rest of the tomato mixture. Fold it over and
turn on to a hot platter. Pour some of the tomato sauce
round it and garnish with fried bread.
Tomato Omelette
Make the omelette as above directed and have at hand a
pan of finely stewed and seasoned tomatoes. Just before turn-
ing, spread one-half the omelette thickly with the tomatoes.
Drop over the other side of the omelette and serve at once.
Egg Marmalade, a Jewish Receipt
Clarify one pound of sugar in half a pint of water till it
becomes a thick syrup. While clarifying it, add one ounce of
sweet almonds, blanched and pounded. Let the mixture cool
and then stir in gently the yolks of twenty eggs, which have
been previously well beaten and passed through a sieve. Take
care to stir continually the same way. When well mixed,
place over a slow fire, stirring all the time to prevent burning.
Flavor with vanilla or what you please. Wine or brandy
might be used for flavor.
Eggs en Cocotte
Take two shallots, one onion, two tablespoonfuls of butter,
two tablespoonfuls of mushrooms, one tablespoonful of parsley,
one-half cup of bouillon. Chop the shallots and onions very
fine. Put butter in saucepan; and when it is melted, stir in
shallots and onions. Cook slowly for five minutes. Add the
mushrooms, parsley, and bouillon, and boil five minutes more.
Put one tablespoonful of the mixture into a baking shell,
break an egg in each one, then cover with the mixture, and
bake in a hot oven for four minutes.
Nested Eggs
Take as many eggs as you want nested and strain off the
whites, being very careful not to break the yolk, which you
XESTED EGGS.
Faciiig page 'Zlh.
SPIXACH TIMBALE.
(See^. 256.)
\ PUBLir- )
SANDWICHES, EGG AND CHEESE DISHES 275
leave in the shell. Set the shells holding the yolks in a cool
place until you are ready to use them. Take as many rounds
of toast as you have nests to make. Spread with pounded
chicken livers, beat the whites to a very stiff froth, heap on
the toast, then make a hollow in the centre. Carefully drop
in the yolks. Set in a very hot oven for three minutes, or
until they are a very light brown. Sprinkle a little chopped
parsley over each one and serve.
Egg Baskets
From hard-boiled eggs cut a thin slice off either end so
that the halves will stand upright. Having halved the eggs,
mix the yolks with some finely chopped ham, or chicken, or
tongue, allowing a tablespoonful of the meat to a yolk, and
mix smoothly together with salt, pepper, mustard, and melted
butter. Form the paste into balls, which will be about the
size of the original yolk, and lay in the hard basket-form
whites. Pour over all a white sauce, set in the oven for a
few moments, and send to the table garnished with parsley.
Stuffed Eggs
Let the eggs boil until they are hard and cut them in half.
Take out the yolks and mix them with cold chicken, chopped
very fine, pepper, salt, a piece of butter, and parsley, if you
choose. Place the mixture in the hard whites, uniting the two
parts ; roll in the white of an egg and drop into hot fat and
fry till light brown. Take them from the fat and drain.
Make a sauce of cream or rich milk, thickened with flour, add
the yolk of an egg, stir till smooth, pour over the eggs and
serve.
Eggs en Marinade
Take six eggs, one pint of tarragon vinegar, twenty-four
whole cloves, half a teaspoonf ul of mustard, half a teaspoon-
ful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper. Boil the eggs fifteen
276 MBS. seelt's cook book
minutes. Remove the shells and stick four cloves in each egg.
Pat the vinegar on to boil, rub the mustard, salt, and pepper
to a paste, and add to the vinegar. When boiling, cook one
minute. Put the eggs in a glass fruit jar, pour over the boil-
ing vinegar, cover and let stand for two weeks. These are
nice to serve as an accompaniment to broiled steak.
Pickled Eggs
Boil the eggs from twenty minutes to half an hour. Re-
move the shells and put them in an earthen jar. Cover them
with hot vinegar, in which has been boiled peppers, allspice,
coriander seeds, cardamom, and cloves (half an ounce to two
dozen eggs), or merely use plain, hot vinegar, and let them
stand twenty-four hours before using.
Creamed Cheese Balls to serve with Salad
Chop very fine one small, green pepper, which has been
parboiled, and core and seeds removed, and a very little
pimento. Put in a mortar one-half pound of cream cheese,
work until it is creamy, then add the chopped mixture, a dash
of cayenne, and one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar. Work
into long strips about an inch in thickness. Put in the ice-box
to harden. Have some nice, finely shredded celery, one red
apple cut the same way, one cup of mayonnaise dressing.
Arrange nice, crisp leaves of lettuce round your bowl, then set
in the celery and apple already mixed with the mayonnaise.
With scissors cut the cheese mixture into little balls all round
the dish.
Cheese Croquettes to serve with Salad
Mix one tablespoonful of melted butter and one tablespoon-
ful of flour with one teacup of milk. Place on the fire to let it
come to a boil. Season to taste and stir in the beaten yolks
of two eggs. Set away to cool. When thoroughly cold, mix
SANDWICHES, EGG AND CHEESE DISHES 277
with two tablespoonf uls of grated cheese — American or Par-
mesan— and a dash of cayenne. Form into croquettes, dip
into beaten egg, roll in fine cracker crumbs, and fry in hot fat.
Cheese Timbale
Mix one cup of cream, one tablespoonful of butter, and two
tablespoonfuls of flour together, and stir over a moderate fire
until the mixture comes to a boil, then stir in five tablespoon-
fuls of grated Parmesan cheese. Strain through a puree sieve
and set away. When cold, stir in three well-beaten eggs and
salt and white pepper to taste. Grease some small timbale
moulds. Decorate the inside with truffles. Pour the mixture
in, then set in pan of water, and bake in hot oven for ten
minutes. Serve with cheese sauce.
Pot Cheese
Place over the fire a pan of milk which has soured and
thickened. When it has become scalding hot, ladle the curd
and whey into a muslin bag, and hang up the bag to drain for
an hour or two. Then take the curd from the bag, moisten
with thick cream, mix in a small quantity of salt, work well
with the hands, and either form in a mound, in a glass dish, or
roll in balls. Keep well covered, in a cool place, and serve
cold.
Fondue of Parmesan Cheese
Mix two ounces of flour with two ounces of butter, a very
little salt and white pepper, and half a pint of milk. Stir over
the fire until it boils. Work it quickly with the spoon until it
is perfectly smooth, then add six ounces of Parmesan cheese
and the well-beaten yolks of six eggs. Whip the whites quite
firm and lightly stir them in. Fill a souffle case with this
mixture. Bake in quick oven and send to the table as soon as
it is ready.
MBS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Golden Buck
Heat one egg in a small saucepan. Add to it five ounces of
soft American cheese broken in small bits, one level table-
spoonful of butter, one-third of a teaspoonful of salt, a level
teaspoonful of mustard, a dash of cayenne pepper, and five table-
spoonfuls of milk. Toast five slices of bread, keep them warm.
Place the saucepan containing the cheese mixture into another
of boiling water and stir constantly until the cheese is almost
creamy. Set the pan where the contents will keep warm and
yet not cook any more. Poach or drop ten eggs in boiling
salted water. Spread the cheese mixture on the toast, arrange
on a warm dish, putting two poached eggs on each slice of
toast. Serve at once.
Gherkin Buck
Convert into a soft pulp, by a constant stirring in a saucepan
over a fire, a half pound or so of good American cheese well
sprinkled with pepper and wet with ale. To a pound of cheese
allow a teacup of ale. When very hot, which will be in from
three to five minutes, pour over hot toast, and upon the top of
each piece of toast lay a thin slice of broiled bacon. Serve hot.
Ramekins, a Jewish Dish
Mix together three eggs, one ounce of warmed butter, and
two ounces of a fine cheese grated. Bake in small patty pans.
Welsh Rarebit
One pound of soft American cheese, one tablespoonful of
butter, one-half teaspoonful of dry mustard, one-fourth salt-
spoonful of cayenne, one tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce,
one gill of beer, and some slices of toast. Put the seasoning,
butter, and beer in the chafing dish. When the butter is melted,
add the cheese cut in small dice, — to grate it is better, — stir
SANDWICHES, EGG AND CHEESE DISHES 279
all the time, and add a little more beer if it is needed. When
the cheese is melted and creamy, serve at once on the toast.
Milk may be used in place of beer.
Welsh Rarebit
Take four ounces of cheese, half an ounce of butter, a spoon-
ful of made mustard, two tablespoonfuls of cream, cayenne and
black pepper to taste.
Grate or chop the cheese in a bowl and rub all the ingre-
dients to a uniform paste, adding a tablespoonful of milk, ale,
porter, beer, or Champagne. Make a slice of rather thick toast.
Dip it an instant in boiling water and place in the oven.
Transfer the prepared cheese mixture to a saucepan and
stir over a gentle heat until melted, then heat up quickly and
pour upon the toast, and serve.
Swiss Rarebit
Take as many eggs as you wish — the number being based
on the number of your guests — and weigh them. For your
cheese take a third of the weight of the eggs and for butter a
sixth of the weight of the eggs. Beat the eggs in a saucej)an,
grate or cut in small pieces the cheese, add that to the eggs,
stirring all the time, and then add the butter. Stir well over a
good fire until the mixture is thick and smooth. Add little
salt, a large dash of pepper, and serve in a hot dish. This is
best cooked in a double kettle.
Forcemeat of Bread
Cook two finely chopped onions with one ounce of butter for
five minutes. Soak one loaf of stale bread in water for half
an hour. Squeeze it dry and put it in a bowl with three raw
eggs, one tablespoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of white pep-
per, a tablespoonful of sage, a scant half teacupf ul of grated nut-
280 3IRS. seely's cook book
meg, — if it is desired, — three skinned links of sausage, a little
finely chopped parsley. Add the onions. Mix all thoroughly.
Have this mixture moist.
Bread mixture for Timbale of Turkey Livers, p. 198.
Forcemeat of Chicken
Remove the raw white meat from a tender fowl weighing
about four pounds. Mortar the meat well and rub through a
fine sieve. Weigh it. There should be about half a pound.
Place it in a mortar and in small portions rub in two table-
spoonfuls of butter. Stir until it is well mixed. Then add
the beaten whites of four eggs, one teaspoonful of salt, a quarter
of a teaspoonful of white pepper, and a dash of cayenne. Then
add one pint of whipped cream, measuring it after it is whipped.
Mix well and put on ice for one hour. This forcemeat may be
used many ways, — for borders, covering chops, tongue, quenelle,
or to stuff boned squab.
Chicken Forcemeat Balls
See Mock Turtle Soup, p. 80.
Forcemeat of Chicken Liver
Have at hand six chicken livers, one pint of cream or
chicken stock, one-half pint of stale bread crumbs, three eggs,
one tablespoonful of salt, one-sixth of a teaspoonful of pepper,
eight tablespoonfuls of butter, and one-eighth of a teaspoonful
of ground mace. Wash the livers, put them in a pan, and cover
with boiling water. Let them boil for half an hour. When
cold, pound to a smooth paste and rub through a puree sieve.
Mix the bread crumbs and cream together and cook them slowly
until a smooth paste is formed. Remove from the fire, add the
butter to the paste, let it cool slowly, then add the liver, season-
ing, and the eggs which have been well beaten. Mix thoroughly
and set away to cool.
SANDWICHES, EGG AND CHEESE DISHES 281
Forcemeat of Hard-boiled Egg
Mix well in a mortar the yolks of six or eight hard-boiled
eggs, salt, pepper, and parsley to taste, and a little flour —
say a teaspoonful. Form the forcemeat into balls with the aid
of uncooked egg and boil them in stock either for serving with
soup or for garnishing fish and meats.
Fish Forcemeat, p. 101
Veal Forcemeat, p. 102
Forcemeat for Baked Trout, p. 116
Forcemeat for Baked Red Snapper, p. 109
Tomato Forcemeat
See Peppers, Stuffed with, p. 251.
Forcemeat of Mushrooms
Prepare the mushrooms of the button variety by skinning
and pounding them, and cooking them slowly in butter for ten
or fifteen minutes. After they are cold, chop them, mix them
with their proportion of fine bread crumbs. Season with salt,
pepper, and some spice like nutmeg, if you wish, and mix in
last the yolks of eggs — enough to make the stuffing plastic.
Roll it in any agreeable form, fry it in butter, and use it as a
garnish for poultry or game.
Stuflang of Mushrooms
See Stuffed Cabbage, p. 236.
Oyster Stuffing for Turkey-
See Roast Turkey, p. 196.
Forcemeat of Truffles
Fry gently for a moment in a little butter half a pound of
truffles, and then add half a pound of minced bacon and a
282 MRS. seely's cook book
seasoning of herbs. When all are well mixed, grind well in a
mortar, pounding in with the meats a little salt and pepper,
half a cup of softened bread crumbs, and enough of egg to hold
the forcemeat well together.
Virginia Boned Turkey Stuffing
Take six eggs, boil hard, and chop fine. Four slices of
lean ham chopped fine, one tongue boiled and sliced, some
slices of pickled pork and bread crumbs to complete a plenti-
ful filling. Season with butter, red pepper, salt, thyme,
sweet marjoram, and, if liked, onion. Celery seed may also
be added.
Poultry Forcemeat a la Constantinople
Take equal quantities of rice (which has been cooked),
roasted chestnuts, peeled and cut in small pieces, and half the
quantity each of currants and pistachio nuts. Mix them well
together with butter, salt, and pepper.
Stuffing for Ducks
A forcemeat for ducks is made of an onion and sour apples
chopped together, mixed with three times their quantity of fine
bread crumbs, and seasoned with mint, sage, butter, pepper, and
salt.
Stuffing for Chicken
A forcemeat for chicken is made of stale bread crumbs soaked
in milk or water and seasoned with mint, sage, pepper, salt, and
butter.
Stuffing for Goose
A stuffing for goose is made of chestnuts which have been
roasted and freed from their skins. With the chestnuts are
mixed the boiled and finely chopped giblets of the goose, and
EGG AND CHEESE DISHES 283
the whole is seasoned liberally Avith butter, salt, pepper, a little
onion or garlic, and parsley.
A goose is sometimes stuffed with fine mashed and well-
seasoned potatoes.
Chestnut Stuffing for Goose under Roast Goose, p. 199.
Stuffing for Goose under Baked Wild Goose, p. 199.
CHAPTER XI
HOT PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, SOUFFLlSS, ETC.
Almond Pudding, a Jewish Receipt
Beat up the yolks of ten eggs and the whites of seven. Add
half a pound of sweet almonds pounded finely, half a pound of
white sugar, half an ounce of bitter almonds, and a tablespoon-
ful of orange-flower water. When thoroughly mixed, put in a
well-buttered pudding dish and bake in a brisk oven. Before
serving, strew powdered sugar over the top, or pour over clari-
fied sugar with orange -flower water.
Baked Apples
Wash the apples and core them with an apple corer. Set
them in a deep pan, sift over them sugar enough to make quite
sweet, and fill the pan half full of water. Turn them over after
baking a short time and bake slowly in a steady oven an hour
to an hour and a half. Set a pan of water in the upper oven
when you put the apples in the stove.
Buttered Apples
Pare six or eight apples of a firm flesh but of a good cooking
sort and an agreeable tart. Cut out the core without piercing
the outer flesh and fill in the centre with fresh butter. Set the
apples in a porcelain -lined stewpan just large enough to hold
them in a single layer, add a little water and stew them gently,
turning them if necessary. When they are tender and quite
done through, strew upon them as much sugar as will sweeten
the dish highly, adding a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon.
284
HOT PUDDINGS, CUSTABDS, SOUFFLES, ETC. 285
Stew gently a few minutes longer, lift the apples to a hot dish,
lay upon each apple a spoonful of apricot jam or a few blanched
almonds, pour the syrup from the pan round the apples and
serve.
Utica Baked Apple Sauce
Pare, core, and quarter nice tart apples. Put them in an
earthen baking dish, sweeten and spice to taste, cover with
water. Lay a cover on the baking dish and bake the apples till
tender.
Old-fashioned Boston Apple Pudding:
Peel a dozen and a half of good tart apples and take out the
cores, cut them small and put them in a porcelain stewpan that
will just hold them with a little water, a little cinnamon, two
cloves, and the peel of a lemon. Stew over a slow fire till quite
soft, then sweeten with sugar and pass through a sieve. Add
the yolks of four eggs and the white of one, a quarter of a
pound of good butter, half a nutmeg, the peel of a lemon grated,
and the juice of a lemon. Beat all well together, line the inside
of a deep pie dish with puff paste, put in the pudding, and bake
half an hour.
Apple Meringue, Plain
Peel, core, and slice ten or twelve good-sized apples. Cook
them until they are of a good consistency with three ounces of
granulated sugar, two ounces of butter, and the chopped rind of
a lemon. When thoroughly cooked, shape in a dome form and
cover with meringue. Fill a pastry bag with meringue and
decorate the surface. Sprinkle with sugar and bake in a mod-
erate oven until a delicate brown. Decorate with currant jelly.
Bread Pudding
Take a loaf of French bread and cut it in thin slices. But-
ter and mix the slices with four ounces of raisins and two
286 MRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
ounces of citron cut in fine shreds. Boil a pint and a half of
milk with six ounces of granulated sugar. Remove from the
fire and add the well-beaten yolks of six eggs and a little finely
chopped lemon rind. Strain the mixture over the bread, let it
stand for ten minutes, and bake in pudding dish for half an hour
until it is light brown. Serve hot with any kind of pudding
sauce.
Bread Pudding
Soak a pint of fine bread crumbs in a pint of milk, and when
soft add three tablespoons of cocoa well mixed with a little
water. To another pint of milk add half a cup of sugar and
three well-beaten eggs. Blend all the ingredients and add half
a teaspoon of salt. Pour into a well-buttered pudding dish,
set the dish in a pan of hot water, and bake an hour. Serve
with a cream either whipped or not whipped, and flavored with
vanilla.
Cabinet Pudding
Have at hand one and a half ounces of candied orange peel,
four dozen sultana raisins, four ounces of currants, one pint of
milk, four eggs, the grated rind of one lemon, three tablespoon-
f uls of granulated sugar, and a few slices of sponge cake. Rub
a pudding mould with melted butter. Then cut the orange
peel into thin slices and arrange in the bottom of the mould.
Fill in the spaces with raisins and currants. Arrange a few
slices of sponge cake, moisten them with a few drops of melted
butter, and sprinkle them with currants. Proceed in this
manner until the mould is nearly full. Mix the milk with the
grated lemon rind, sugar, the eggs, which should be well beaten,
and a little bit of grated nutmeg. Strain and pour into the
mould, which should be quite full. Tie a piece of buttered
paper over it and let it stand for two hours. Then tie it
tightly in a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and cook for
one hour. Remove from the water, let it stand a minute or
Facing page 286.
CHESTNUT PUDDING.
%
/v
HOT PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, SOUFFLES, ETC, 287
two, and then remove the cloth. Invert it on a disli, and serve
with sweet sauce in a separate dish. In place of the lemon
rind, any desired flavoring may be used, and it will be much
richer if cream is used instead of milk.
Cream of Chestnuts with Caramel Sugar
Cook tender, in enough water to cover them, one pound of
shelled and peeled chestnuts with a scant one-quarter of a va-
nilla bean. When cool, pound them in a mortar and rub through
a puree sieve. Mix with the well-beaten yolks of four eggs,
five entire eggs well beaten, half a pound of granulated sugar,
and one pint of milk. Mix thoroughly and again rub through
a puree sieve. Cover the bottom of a timbale mould with one
gill of caramel sugar. When cold, butter the sides of the
mould and fill it with the chestnut mixture. Set the mould in
a pan with hot water to half its height. Place it on top of the
range, and when the cream comes to a boil, cover it with a
paper, and set the pan in a slack oven where the mixture will
cook without boiling for one hour, or until it is firm to the
touch in the centre of mould. Serve, pouring over it the cara-
mel sugar, which is in the bottom of the mould.
To make Caramel Sugar
Mix one pound of granulated sugar with a gill of cold water,
boil over a brisk fire until it has passed the clear brittle state,
and is a light brown. Place in a pan of cold water to prevent
its turning any darker. Use as soon as possible.
Chestnut Pudding
Boil twenty-five chestnuts, remove the shells, and rub the
alp through a sieve. Mix with one-half pint of cream two
unces of butter, three ounces of granulated sugar, and a little
ialt and vanilla to taste. Stir these ingredients over the fire
288 MRS. sei:lt's cook book
until the preparation begins to thicken, then stir it briskly to
prevent it from sticking to the pan. As soon as it leaves the
sides of the pan, remove from the fire, and add the well-beaten
yolks of four eggs and the whites of three eggs whipped firm.
Butter a plain mould and fill it with the mixture, fastening the
cover on securely. Steam for one hour and a half. When
cooked, invert it on a dish, pour some warm diluted apricot jam
over it and serve.
Chocolate Blanc-mange
Soak seven sheets of sheet gelatine in half a cup of cold
water. Boil together for five minutes one quart of hot milk,
one cup of sugar, two ounces of grated chocolate, and a little salt.
Flavor with vanilla after adding the dissolved gelatine, stirring
constantly. Wet the mould with cold water, pour in, and set
away to harden.
Chocolate Pudding
Soak one pint of bread crumbs in one quart of milk. See
that the bread is thoroughly dissolved. Mix one ounce of
grated chocolate with three tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar
and one tablespoonful of boiling water. Stir constantly over a
brisk fire until it becomes smooth. Remove from the fire, stir
in a few spoonfuls of bread and milk. Stir until it is smooth,
and then mix with the rest of the bread and milk. Beat the
yolks of four eggs and the white of one egg together, and mix
with one-quarter of a cup of granulated sugar and one teaspoon-
ful of salt. Stir into the bread mixture. Pour into a pudding
dish and bake in slow oven for forty minutes. Beat the whites
of three eggs to a stiff froth, stir in three tablespoonfuls of
powdered sugar, and flavor with vanilla extract. Spread this
over the pudding and bake twenty minutes longer with the
oven door open. Whipped cream is very nice served as a
sauce. This pudding may be served hot or cold.
HOT PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, SOUFFLES, ETC. 289
Chocolate Pudding
To a little more than a pint of milk add three tablespoons
of grated chocolate and beat together in a double boiler.
When thoroughly heated, add two tablespoons of corn-starch
wet with a little cold milk. Take from the fire and add the
yolks of four eggs in which a cup of sugar has been beaten,
put in a pudding pan, set this pan in another pan of hot water,
and bake in the oven till the eggs are set. Make a meringue
of the whites of the eggs and one cup of sugar, spread over the
top, and brown. Vanilla flavoring should be used in the pud-
ding and meringue.
Cocoanut Custard
Boil one quart of milk, and at the boiling-point add three
tablespoonfuls of corn flour, blended in a little water. Remove
the saucepan from the fire and stir in one-qaarter of a pound
of butter. Let it stand until perfectly cold. Beat up sepa-
rately the yolks and whites of six eggs until very light. To
the beaten yolks add three-quarters of a pound of sugar and the
grated pulp of one cocoanut. Put this mixture into the milk
with the whites of the eggs. Line a dish or dishes with pie
pastry, fill with the custard, and bake. Serve hot.
Cocoanut Pudding
In one boiling quart of milk gradually stir a scant three-
quarters of a cup of farina. Let this boil fifteen minutes, then
add one cup of grated cocoanut and three well-beaten eggs.
Stir briskly to prevent the eggs curdling. Butter a melon
mould and line with very fine bread crumbs. Pour the mix-
ture into it, place the mould in a pan of water, and bake in a
moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Serve hot with
wine sauce.
u
290 3fBS. SEULT'S COOK BOOK
Cottage Pudding with Fruit
Cut fresh rhubarb in small pieces and half fill a pudding
dish, sweeten it, and then pour the following pudding batter on
top. One egg^ one cup of milk, one tablespoon of butter, one
pint of flour, one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little water.
Bake in moderate oven. Serve this pudding with hard sauce.
Any kind of fresh fruit may be used.
Cream Biscuit
Put in a basin and work well with a wooden spoon the
yolks of three eggs, three ounces of granulated sugar, and the
rind of half a lemon chopped very fine. Beat the whites of
three eggs to a froth. Mix with the yolks, add two ounces
of sifted flour, and half a pint of whipped cream. Pour this
preparation in six paper cases, sprinkle with sugar, and place
on baking sheet. Bake in brisk oven for nearly ten minutes.
Serve hot.
Cream Puffs with Cream Filling
Mix half a cup of melted butter in one cup of hot water, set
on a stove, and when boiling stir in one cup of flour. Remove
from the fire and let it cool. Then stir in three eggs, one after
the other; do not beat them. Drop on buttered tins, bake in
hot oven twenty to thirty minutes.
Cream Filling
A pint and a half of milk, two eggs, half cup of granulated
sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of corn -starch which has been dis-
solved in a little water. When the milk is boiling, add the
eggs, sugar, and corn-starch. Keep stirring and beating until
it is a thick cream.
Cream Croquettes
Mix six eggs, half a pound of sifted flour, a pinch of salt,
and the rind of one lemon chopped fine. Work well with a
HOT PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, SOUFFLES, ETC. 291
wooden spoon until very smooth. Dilute with one quart of
milk. Stir steadily over the fire and boil fifteen minutes. In-
stantly stir in the yolks of four eggs and four ounces of pow-
dered sugar. Mix well, pour into a slightly oiled tin pan, and
cool thoroughly. When cold, sprinkle dry crumbs on a table,
turn the cream over, divide in pieces about two inches wide by
three inches long. Dip in beaten egg, roll in fine bread crumbs,
fry in hot fat until a light brown. Drain, sprinkle with pow-
dered sugar, and serve hot.
Baked Custard
Let one quart of milk come to a boil. Cool the milk
a little, pour it gradually over six well-beaten eggs, stir-
ring all the while. Add a pinch of salt and sugar to taste.
Pour into a deep pan. Grate nutmeg thick over the top. Set
the pan in the oven in another pan in which is water. Set a
square pan of water in the upper oven. Bake in a moderate
heat a light brown. When done, a knife will come out clear.
Custard Caramel
Mix one cup of granulated sugar, half a cup of water, and
two teaspoonfuls of vinegar together. Boil until, when tested
in cold water, it hardens. When partially cool, line an oval
mould with the mixture. Make a custard of one quart of milk,
six eggs, and vanilla to taste. Fill the mould. Bake in mod-
erate oven till firm to touch. Save the caramel that is left after
lining the mould, thin it with water, and when the custard is
inverted on the dish, pour the liquid over it.
Compote of Green Currants
Simmer until tender one pint of green currants (stripped from
the stalks) in a syrup made of half a pint of water and five
ounces of sugar. Boil the syrup before adding the currants.
292 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Serve with boiled rice and a dish of pulverized sugar, if more
sweetness is wished
Compotes of other fruits may be used in this way, such as
green apricots cherries, damson plums. The sugar must be
in proportion to the tartness of the fruit.
Fig Pudding
Take half a pound of chopped suet, four eggs well beaten,
one pint of milk or cream, half a pound of figs cut in small
pieces, one pound of flour, and three teaspoonfuls of baking
powder. Sift the flour and baking powder together, add suet,
eggs, one teaspoon of salt, the figs, and mix all thoroughly
with the milk and two tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar. The
batter should be quite stiff. Put it in a well-buttered pudding
mould and boil two hours. Serve with rum sauce.
Fig Pudding
One-half pound of beef suet cut fine, one-half pound of bread
crumbs soaked in one pint of milk, one pound of figs chopped
fine, one-half pound of granulated sugar, one-half cup of molas-
ses, two tablespoonfuls of flour, one-half teaspoonful of soda
dissolved in a little water, one-half cup of Sherry wine, one tea-
spoonful of ground cinnamon, one teaspoonful of grated nutmeg,
and five eggs. Mix thoroughly and fill a mould. Cover
securely and boil in kettle of water for four hours. Serve with
a wine sauce.
Dessert Fritters
Boil one pint of water five minutes with four ounces of butter,
one tablespoonful of sugar, and the rind of one lemon. Remove
the lemon and at once add ten ounces of sifted flour, mixing
thoroughly with a wooden spoon. Stir over the fire until the
dough does not stick to either the spoon or saucepan. Remove
from the fire and one by one stir in ten eggs. The dough ought
to be of the consistency of thin paste. Ten minutes before
HOT PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, SOUFFLES, FTC. 293
serving, have a large deep pan filled with very hot fat. With a
spoon and the forefinger of the left hand drop large nutmeg-
sized bits of the paste into the fat, fry slowly until crisp and
expanded four times the original size. Drain, dish upon a
folded napkin, sprinkle with sugar, and serve hot.
Marrow Fritters
Dip slices of cold marrow pudding in a beaten egg, roll in
fresh bread crumbs, and fry until light brown in deep hot fat.
Sprinkle with sugar, and serve separately on a folded napkin
with Madeira sauce.
Strawberry Fritters
Have large, ripe strawberries, roll them in melted peach mar-
malade or strawberry jam, then in powdered macaroons. Dip
in sweetened flour batter and fry in deep hot lard. Drain on
brown paper, roll in powdered sugar, place on a folded napkin,
and serve.
Sweet Flour Batter
Mix half a pound of sifted flour with the well-beaten yolks
of three eggs. Add enough water to make a thin batter and
powdered sugar to suit the taste. Lastly, beat the whites of the
eggs to a froth and mix with the batter.
Graham Pudding
Mix one teacup of sweet milk, one of molasses, one of
raisins, seeded and chopped, two of Graham flour, and one
teaspoonful of salt and two teaspoons of soda. Pour into a
well-buttered pudding boiler and boil three hours.
Cream and sugar may be served as a sauce, or a branded sauce
may be used.
Hard Sauce
To one heaping tablespoon of butter, add enough sugar to
make it creamy — say half a cup — and one teaspoon of boil-
294 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
ing water. Beat till it is light and smooth, and flavor Avith
vinegar to taste. Place in a dish and grate nutmeg over the
top, covering well.
Indian Meal Pudding, Baked
Take one pint of new milk, half a pint of water, and mix and
scald. Turn the hot mixture gradually on six tablespoonf uls of
medl. Put in a bit of butter the size of an Qgg^ a little salt,
three tablespoonfuls of sugar, two of molasses, and one Qgg,
Beat all together and bake in a slow oven two or more hours.
Indian Meal Pudding, Boiled
Take two cups of Indian meal, one cup of wheat flour, two
eggs, salt, and sour or buttermilk to make a batter, which should
not be too thick, but rather thin, to allow for the swelling of the
meal. Boil about three hours in a pudding boiler.
The best sauce for this pudding is scraped maple sugar and
cream. By some a thick sour cream is preferred.
Lamplich, a Jewish Receipt
Mix together half a pound of currants, the same quantity of
raisins and sugar, a little citron, ground cloves, and cinnamon,
and eight apples finely chopped. Have ready a rich puff paste
cut in small triangles. Fill the pieces with the fruit, bringing
the edges of the paste together, and lay them like puffs in a
deep dish, putting them closely together. When the dish is full,
pour over one ounce of fresh butter melted in a teacup of clari-
fied sugar and flavored with essence of lemon. Bake in an
oven not too brisk.
Lemon Pudding
One quart of rich lemonade, four tablespoons of sugar, six
apples pared and cored, and a pinch of salt. Bake in a pudding
dish.
HOT PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, SOUFFLES, ETC. 295
Marrow Pudding with Sauce
Chop fine one pound and a half of beef marrow and twelve
ounces of fine bread crumbs. Mix them thoroughly with half
a pound of granulated sugar, half a pound of candied citron,
candied lemon and orange peel cut in fine shreds, half a pound
of currants, four well-beaten eggs, half a gill of brandy, one
gill of Madeira wine. Butter a large round mould not too high,
fill it with the mixture, and bake on a baking sheet, in a moder-
ate oven for one hour. Invert on a dish, cover with the follow-
ing sauce, and serve very hot : —
Sauce
Yolks of six eggs, three ounces of sugar, half a pint of
Madeira wine. Beat the mixture over the fire with an egg-
beater until it is thick and frothy. Serve at once.
New England Pandowdy
Fill a deep pudding dish (the dish should be earthen or
porcelain lined) with well-peeled and cored apples of a variety
that will cook up soft and retain a pleasing tart. Put in water
enough to last during the cooking of the apples and give a
"juice" for the eating, but not enough to make the compote
watery. Over the apples lay a baking powder biscuit crust —
a crust well shortened, but not so saturated with baking powder
as anxious or careless cooks are apt to make it. Bake in a
moderate oven till the apples and crust are done. If the crust
cooks before the apples, invert a pan over the dish, not forget-
ting a pan of water in the upper oven. Serve with a sauce of
thick cream into which a cupful of sugar has been beaten, or
maple sugar is stirred.
Some cooks dust the apples with sweetening before putting
on the crust. Peaches may be used instead of apples,
296 MRS, SEELT'S COOK BOOK
Baked Pears
With plenty of water stew the pears till tender. Then
place them in a pan. Add the juice in which they were boiled,
making the pan more than half full. Set in the oven and bake
quite soft, turning them once, and always set the pan of water
in the upper oven to protect the fruit.
Plum Pudding
Three pounds of chopped suet, three pounds of brown sugar,
three pounds of currants, three pounds of sultana raisins, three
pounds of candied lemon and orange peel, three teaspoonfuls
of salt, three ounces of mixed ground spices, three pints of
brandy, one pint of black molasses, one pound and a half of
bread crumbs, one pound of flour, and twenty eggs. Butter
the moulds, tie in cloths, and steam six hours. The above
receipt will fill twelve good-sized moulds. One half or less
that quantity may be used. After being steamed the puddings
will keep a long time, if set in a cool place.
Plum Pudding
One pound of brown sugar, one pound of raisins, one pound
of currants, one pound of sultana raisins, one pound of suet,
half a pound of citron, half a pound orange peel, six large apples,
five eggs, one large cup of milk, one large cup of flour, one
small cup of bread crumbs, one pint of Sherry, one pint of
brandy, one tablespoonful of ground cinnamon, one tablespoon -
ful of ground cloves, one grated nutmeg, and one teaspoon
of salt. Chop the suet and apples, which have been peeled, in
small pieces, cut the large raisins in half, the orange peel in
small pieces, and slice the citron as thin as possible. Have the
eggs well beaten. Stir all the ingredients in a stone jar. This
will make more than one mould. Butter as many moulds as
BABA.
Facing page 296.
MOULDS FOR M
BA, LARGE AXD SMALL.
HOT PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, SOUFFLES, ETC. 297
required, fasten the cover on securely, and put in kettle of
boiling water. Cook steadily for six hours. Serve hot with
brandy sauce.
Prune Pudding
Stew one pound of prunes, press through a colander, and
add two cups of sugar. Beat the whites of five eggs and stir
with the prunes, pour into a pudding dish, and bake ten
minutes.
Cream may be eaten with this pudding, or a sauce made of
the yolks of the eggs, beaten in milk, with a little sugar added
while cooking.
Pennsylvania Quinces
Rub the fir thoroughly from the quinces, core them, stuff
the centre with sugar, put in a baking pan with a little water,
and bake till tender. If they tend to dry on top, baste and
cover them with an inverted pan. Serve with a sauce of cream
flavored with brandy, wine, or vanilla.
Raised Rum Baba
Dissolve one compressed yeast cake in half a cup of warm
water. Let it stand in a warm place for thirty minutes.
When the yeast floats to the top, add four ounces of flour and
a little more water to make it a soft batter. Let it stand in
a warm place till it rises very light. In another bowl place
one pound of flour, six ounces of butter, and two ounces of
sugar. Mix thoroughly, and then stir in a pint and a half of
warm milk which has been boiled and partially cooled. Next
add the three eggs, one after the other, and one wine-glass of
rum. Mix well. Add one ounce of currants with three ounces
of raisins and half an ounce of citron cut in small pieces. Let
this mixture stand one hour before adding the yeast batter.
Work them together thoroughly. Fill a well-buttered mould
about half full, allowing the dough room to swell. Bake in a
298 MRS. seely's cook book
moderate oven for forty-five minutes. Just before serving, pour
over it two liquor glasses of rum. Sprinkle with powdeued
sugar and serve with brandy sauce.
Sponge Batter Pudding
Put half a pint of milk in double boiler and put it on to
heat. Meanwhile, mix half a pint of milk with a generous half
cup of flour, making a smooth paste. Add this to the milk
when it begins to boil. Cook four or five minutes, add three
tablespoonfuls of butter, a quarter of a cup of sugar, and the
beaten yolks of three eggs. Let it get a little cool. Beat the
whites of three eggs to a stiff froth and add to the mixture.
Put it in a buttered dish. Set the buttered dish in a pan of
water and bake in quick oven for an hour and a half.
Sponge Pudding with Sauce
One-quarter of a cup of granulated sugar, one-half cup of
flour, one-quarter of a cup of butter, one pint of boiling milk,
the yolks and whites of five eggs. Mix the sugar and flour,
wet it with a little cold milk, then stir it into the boiling milk.
Cook until it thickens and is smooth. Add the butter, and
when well mixed stir in the well-beaten yolks of the eggs and,
lastly, the whites, beaten to a stiff froth. ]Mix thoroughly
and pour into a buttered mould. Place the mould in a pan of
hot water and bake in a hot oven. Serve hot with the follow-
ing sauce : —
Sauce
Cream one-quarter of a cup of butter with one-half cup of
powdered sugar, add two tablespoonfuls of wine and two table-
spoonfuls of cream. Just before serving, place the bowl over
boiling water. Stir until it becomes creamy.
HOT PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, SOUFFLES, ETC. 299
Rum Omelette
To two eggs, beaten thoroughly with two ounces of sugar,
add one glass of Jamaica rum. Melt four ounces of butter in a
saucepan and pour in the egg mixture. Stir on the fire and
cook. When done, roll the omelette, turn it on a dish, sprinkle
with powdered sugar, and send to the table. Have a glass of
Jamaica rum at hand, pour it on each side of the dish, apply a
lighted match, and serve when the alcohol has almost burned
itself out.
Strawberry Shortcake
Put one quart of sifted flour in a large earthen bowl, add
to it one-half teaspoonful of salt and three heaping teaspoonfuls
of baking powder. Mix thoroughly, and then cream it with
two heaping teaspoonfuls of butter. When this is done, stir in
enough rich milk to make a soft dough. Butter three round
pans, the same as for layer cake. Roll the dough on a lightly
floured board until it is half or three-quarters of an inch thick.
Cut it the same size as the pans and place it in them. Bake in
a quick oven for eighteen minutes. Remove from the pans ;
and when partially cool, butter the top of each layer. Prepare
two quarts of nice ripe strawberries as follows : If necessary,
wash and drain thoroughly in a colander. Place in an earthen
bowl and cover them with powdered sugar. It depends upon
the sweetness of the berry as to the quantit}^ of sugar to use.
Crush the berries with a potato masher so that they may be
thoroughly mixed with the sugar. Do not mash them to a
pulp. Place one layer of cake in a deep round dish, spread
it with the strawberries, cover with another layer, treat this
in the same manner ; also the third layer. Garnish the dish
with whole strawberries and serve with plain rich cream or
whipped cream.
300 MBS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Strawberry Shortcake of the Oneida Community
With a quart of flour sift thoroughly three teaspoons of
baking powder and rub in one ounce of butter and a pinch of
salt. Wet with a pint of sweet milk, stirring with a spoon.
Do not roll out the paste, but spread it on tin pie plates, aiding
by patting with the hand if necessary until the dough is about
half an inch thick. Bake slowly at first till the cake rises a
little and then hasten the baking, allowing in all about twenty-
five minutes for the biscuit to bake. When it is thoroughly
done, take a sharp knife and split it and spread each half upon
its soft side with butter. Lay one-half on a generously large
dish, and over it spread the strawberries which have been
previously sugared, mashed a little, and mixed with cream.
Having well covered one-half of the crust, lay on the other half
and spread berries and cream over it as upon the first. If your
crust is in small cakes and you have two, make your cake of
four layers rather than of two. Work fast and don't lose a
minute, for shortcakes should be served with the quickness of
griddle cakes. Sweeten the fruit before you begin making the
dough — say an hour before use.
Peach Shortcake
Make precisely as the above, using instead fine luscious
peaches, peeled and quartered.
Red Raspberry Shortcake
Follow the directions for strawberry shortcake.
Baked Apple Shortcake
Pare and quarter tart, easy-cooking apples, enough to make
a couple of layers on the bottom of a pudding dish. Lay the
quarters on carefully, add a tablespoon or so of water, half a
HOT PUDDINGS, CUSTABDS, SOUFFLES, ETC. 301
cup of sugar, a little salt, any spice you wish, and a few bits of
butter. Upon this spread a paste made as you make a straw-
berry shortcrust. Bake until the apples are done and the crust
is a light brown. Loosen the crust, turn the pudding dish
upside down over a plate or platter, and have the crust and
apples inverted. Separate into little squares and serve with
scraped maple sugar and cream.
Souflae with Apricot Sauce
Twelve eggs, one pound of granulated sugar, vanilla to
taste, and one teaspoonful of corn-starch dissolved in a little
cold milk. Divide the whites of the eggs from the yolks. Beat
the eggs till firm and white, then add the sugar, corn-starch,
and vanilla. Beat thoroughly. Have the yolks well beaten,
and with a spoon carefully stir them with the whites. Bake
in souffle dish in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes.
Apricot Sauce
Stew some apricots, add sugar to taste. When thoroughly
cooked, rub them through a puree sieve. Strain the syrup, and
then add a little maraschino or other liqueur to fancy. Serve
with the souffle.
Cheese Souffle
Beat a quarter of a pound of butter, melted with the yolks
of six eggs. Season with pepper and cook it over a moderate
fire till it becomes creamy. Be sure to stir it all the time and
do not let it boil. When it is creamy, take it from the fire and
mix in three-eighths of a pound of finely grated Swiss cheese
and Parmesan cheese. Do not have the mixture any thicker.
Slowly stir in the well-beaten whites of three eggs and then
stir in two spoonfuls of whipped cream. Pour into the souffle
pan and put the pan on a flat sheet of tin. Bake in a slack
oven about ten or fifteen minutes. Before removing from the
oven, sprinkle well with grated cheese. Serve at once.
302 MBS. seely's cook book
Chocolate Souffle
Have at hand four eggs, three teaspoonfuls of pounded and
rolled lump sugar, one teaspoonful of flour, and three ounces of
chocolate. Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs and
to the yolks add the sugar, flour, and the chocolate, which has
been grated very fine. Beat these together for five minutes.
Beat the whites of the eggs till they are stiff and lightly stir
them with the yolks. When the mixture is smooth and light,
pour it into a buttered tin and bake in a quick oven. It must
be served as soon as it is cooked, else it will fall.
Lemon Souffle
To the well-beaten yolks of six eggs add a scant tablespoon-
ful of powdered sugar. Beat twenty minutes, stir in the juice
and grated rind of one lemon. Ten minutes before serving,
beat the whites of six eggs until they are light and add to the
yolks. Mix thoroughly and pour in a baking dish. Bake in a
quick oven. AVhen cooked, sprinkle with granulated sugar and
serve at once.
Lemon Souffle
Boil one cup of milk or cream with half a tablespoonful of
butter. Mix one cup of sifted flour with one cup of boiled
milk. Stir it into the boiled milk. Keep stirring till all is
free from the bottom of the saucepan. When cool, stir in half
a tablespoonful of butter which has been creamed, six table-
spoonfuls of granulated sugar, and the yolks of eight eggs
stirred in one by one. Flavor with wine and the juice of one
lemon. Then add the stiffly beaten whites of eggs. Mix
thoroughly, pour into dish, and bake for thirty minutes.
Prune Souffle
Stew one pound of prunes till very soft. Then rub them
through a colander and sweeten to taste. Beat the whites of
HOT PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, SOUFFLES, ETC. 303
six eggs very stiff and add one teaspoonful of vanilla. Now
add the strained prunes and beat together very thoroughly.
Pour it into the dish you are to serve it in and bake in moder-
ate oven for ten minutes. Any fruit may be used instead of
prunes.
Custard Soufifle
Rub two scant tablespoons of butter to a cream, add two
tablespoons of flour, and pour in gradually one cup of hot milk.
Cook eight minutes in a double boiler, stirring often. Separate
the yolks and whites of four eggs. Beat the yolks with two
tablespoons of sugar, add to the milk, and set away to cool.
Thirty minutes before serving, beat the whites very stiff, cut
them lightly into the custard, and bake in a buttered dish in a
moderate oven.
Cream Sauce
A quarter of a cup of butter, half a cup of pulverized sugar,
two tablespoons of wine, and two tablespoons of cream. Cream
the butter and sugar well, and just before serving place the
bowl over hot water and stir till smooth and creamy.
Suet Pudding
Mix one cupful of finely chopped suet with one cup of sweet
milk, one cupful of raisins, seeded and rubbed with a little
flour, one teaspoonful of salt, one small teaspoonful of soda dis-
■solved in one cup of molasses, and three and a half cups of flour.
Place in buttered mould, cover tightly, and steam three hours.
Unmould and serve hot, with hard sauce.
Suet Pudding
Mix one cup of finely chopped suet with one egg and one
cup of sweet milk, one cup of seeded raisins dredged with flour,
one teaspoonful of salt, one cup of molasses, three cups of flour,
two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and ginger to taste. Put
304 MBS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
in a buttered pudding boiler of tin, cover to exclude all steam
and water, and boil three hours. Invert the boiler, and serve
hot with hard sauce or liquid brandy sauce.
Peach Tapioca
Pour over one-third of a cup of granulated tapioca enough cold
water to soften it. Add to a quart of water in a double boiler
the dissolved tapioca and boil until it is clear. When clear,
take from the fire and flavor with a little fresh lemon, sugar
to make quite sweet, and salt so that it will not taste fresh.
Let the tapioca remain rather thick. Take one can of peaches,
lay the peaches in a pudding dish, and sift sugar over them.
Mix the strained juice of the peaches with the tapioca to make
a proper consistency and pour over the peaches, covering them
well. Set in a moderate oven and bake five or ten minutes.
Serve with cream for a sauce.
Strawberry Tapioca
Is prepared after the manner of peach tapioca. The straw-
berries should be set on the stove, sweetened to taste, and scalded
only a moment or two. Place them in a pudding dish, pouring
over them the tapioca. Bake five or ten minutes.
Tapioca Cream
Boil one quart of milk in a double kettle and add four table-
spoonfuls of tapioca, which should have been well soaked in
water. Cook until the tapioca is transparent, adding a good
pinch of salt. When the tapioca is cooked, take the mixture
off the fire, and that moment add three eggs well beaten and
sugar to taste. Any flavoring — bitter almond, vanilla, lemon
— may be used.
Tapioca Pudding
Wash three ounces of tapioca and boil it slowly for fifteen
minutes with one quart of milk, stirring it occasionally. When
UOT PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, SOUFFLJ^S, ETC. 305
partially cool, add two ounces of butter, one-quarter of a pound
of granulated sugar, and three well-beaten eggs. Season with
vanilla. Butter a deep dish, cover the edge with puff paste,
put the pudding in it, and bake in moderate oven for half an
hour.
Virginia Pudding
Five eggs, one pint of milk, one gill of cream (or an ounce
of butter), three tablespoons of flour, and a little salt. Reserve
the white of the eggs for the hard sauce. Bake slowly one
hour.
CHAPTER XII
COLD PUDDINGS, CREAMS, MERINGUES, AND ICES
Almond Custard
Scald, blanch, and pound very fine three ounces of almonds
and only three bitter almonds. Mix thoroughly with eight
custard cups of boiling cream. Place in a saucepan with the
yolks of eight eggs, three ounces of granulated sugar, and one
teaspoon of orange-flower water. Mix well over the fire to keep
the mixture warm, but do not let it boil. Pour into custard
cups. Set the cups in a pan with boiling water to half their
height. Take the froth from the surface with the edge of a
small piece of paper. Cover and cook slowly for twenty min-
utes. Let them cool in the pan. Wipe the cups clean and
dry, and, if desired, serve with a dish of roasted almonds.
Banana Pudding
Scald one quart of milk, add the well-beaten yolks of three
eggs, one tablespoon of corn-starch, and granulated sugar to
taste. Boil long enough to make a nice thick cream. Thinly
slice three bananas, arrange in a pudding dish, then pour the
boiled liquid over them. Make a meringue of the whites of
the eggs. Cover the top and bake all in moderate oven until
a nice brown. Serve when it is quite cool.
Bavaroise with Chestnuts
Remove the shells from one pound of fresh chestnuts. Put
them with some water in a saucepan and cook over a slow fire
306
COLD PUDDINGS, CREAMS, MERINGUES, AND ICES 307
for two hours. When the water becomes black, replace it with
clean boiling water. When the chestnuts are tender, drain,
skin, and pound them in a mortar with two gills of sugar syrup,
reduce to a paste, and pass through a pur^e sieve. Place the
yolks of four eggs in a bowl and beat them up with four ounces
of granulated sugar. Boil one pint of milk with half a split
vanilla bean, remove the bean and pour the milk on the eggs
and sugar. Place over the fire and beat with a whisk until it
begins to thicken. Remove and add an ounce and a half of
gelatine, previously dissolved in a little cold water. When this
is stirred in, strain it through a sieve and add it to the chestnuts.
Place the mixture on ice and beat well until cold, then pour it
into a fancy mould packed in ice. Let it stand for two hours.
Just before serving, dip in hot water and invert the mould on a
cold dish, and garnish with chestnuts glazed in the following
manner : Select the necessary number of chestnuts, cut a small
slit in each one, arrange on a tin sheet, sprinkle with salt, and
bake in an oven. When tender and cooled, remove the shells
and skin. Dip in a syrup composed of one cup of granulated
sugar and one gill of water, boiled until, when tested in cold
water, it is brittle. Drain the chestnuts and arrange on oiled
paper to dry.
Maraschino Bavarian Cream
Whip one pint of cream until it is like snow. Take care
not to overdo it, else it will be butter. Stir in one and a half
ounces of gelatine which has been dissolved in water and then
strained. Add one gill and a half of genuine maraschino, the
juice of one lemon, and four ounces of pounded loaf sugar.
Mix well together and pour the cream into a mould previously
oiled slightly with sweet almond oil. Set the mould in cracked
ice, and, when the cream has become firm, invert on a dish. The
mould being oiled prevents the necessity of dipping it in warm
water.
308 MRS. seely's cook book
Vanilla Bavaroise
Boil one pint of milk with one-half of a split vanilla bean.
Mix four well-beaten Qgg yolks with six ounces of sugar, add
the boiling milk, and stir over a moderate fire without its com-
ing to a boil. Remove from the fire, and as soon as it begins to
thicken, take out the vanilla bean and stir in one ounce of gela-
tine which has been dissolved in a little water. When this is
melted, pass the whole through a fine wire sieve and let it cool
on the ice. As it commences to thicken, mix in three pints of
cream whipped and thoroughly drained. Fill a mould with this
mixture, cover with a paper the same shape as the top, fasten
the cover securely, and pack in ice for two or three hours. At
the last moment dip the mould in hot water and invert on a
cold dish.
Chocolate Bavaroise
A chocolate bavaroise may be made the same as above,
adding two ounces of chocolate dissolved in a little water just
before the mixture is strained.
Biscuit Glace
Mix the yolks of eight eggs with one pint of rich cream and
four ounces of powdered macaroons, ten ounces of granulated
sugar, and a very little pinch of salt. Stir the whole in a stew-
pan over the fire until the Qgg is sufficiently set or is quite thick.
Strain through a wet cloth, and when cool add two wdne-glasses
of maraschino. Freeze in the usual way. Just before serving,
stir in one-half pint of whipped cream. Fill small paper cases
and sprinkle each one with pow^dered macaroons.
Birds'-nest Pudding
Make an orange jelly. Invert a moderately deep pie dish
in a round earthen basin — one that will hold about two quarts.
Pour the jelly into the basin, covering the pie dish. Stand it
in a cool place to harden. Next cut the orange peel in very
COLD PUDDINGS, CREAMS, MERINGUES, AND ICES 309
narrow strips. Boil one cup of granulated sugar in half a cup
of water until it hardens when tested ; to test, drop a little in
cold water. Dip the strips of orange peel in this syrup and
place on greased paper to harden. Scald one pint of milk and
stir in four tablespoons of corn-starch blended with a little
water. Stir constantly while it boils and until it thickens, then
add one-quarter of a cup of granulated sugar and flavor with
vanilla. Have ready sorue eggshells that have been emptied
from a small hole in the top, fill each one with the liquid and
set away to harden. They should rest in a pan of meal or flour,
so as to be upright wdiile hardening. Have ready one pint of
whipped cream. Turn the jelly out on a round glass dish, care-
fully remove the pie dish, and garnish around the space left by
the pie dish with the strips of orange peel. Fill the space inside
the strips with the whipped cream. Carefully remove the shells
from the corn-starch eggs and arrange these in the centre, and
serve.
Chantilly Pudding
Beat the yolks of four eggs with one cup of powdered sugar
until they are very light and creamy, then add the grated rind
of one lemon. Whip the whites of the four eggs until they are
very stiff, then gradually stir in the yolks. Use a wire whisk
and cut through the mixture. Do not stir more than neces-
sary. Add two gills of flour which has been sifted twice.
Butter a cylinder mould and dredge it with sugar. Pour in
the mixture, filling the mould about three-quarters full, allow-
ing it room to rise. Bake in a moderate oven twenty to twenty -
five minutes. Turn it out of the mould and set away to cool.
Whip very stiff one pint of rich cream, sweeten with a table-
spoon of powdered sugar, and flavor with one tablespoon of
Madeira. Then fill up the hollow of the pudding with the
whipped cream, giving it the shape of an individual charlotte.
Pour the rest of the whipped cream into a bowl, flavor it with
\
310 MBS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
strained strawberry juice to color it pink. Put the cream into
a paper cornucopia and form it into rosettes around the pud-
ding. Place in ice-box for one hour. Fresh strawberries may
be passed round with it.
Charlotte Russe
Line the bottom of a charlotte mould with white paper and
the sides with lady's fingers. Boil half a pint of milk with
one-quarter of a vanilla bean. Beat the yolks of three eggs
with three ounces of sugar and add the boiling milk. Stir
over a moderate fire until it begins to thicken. Do not let it
boil. Remove the vanilla bean and add one sheet of clear
gelatine, moistened in a little cold water and dissolved in one-
half gill of boiling water. Rub the whole mixture through a
fine strainer, set it away until it is slightly thick, and mix it
with a pint and a half of whipped cream. Pour into the char-
lotte mould, cover the top with paper, and set on the ice for an
hour or more. When ready to serve, invert on a dish. Have
a cover for the top made of the lady's finger pastry, decorate it
with icing, and, if desired, candied cherries, etc.
Charlotte Russe
Dissolve a fourth of a package, or two teaspoons, of gelatine
in a fourth of a cup of cold water, and add it to half a pint of
milk heated and three-quarters of a cup of sugar. Whip half
a pint of rich cream, add to the gelatine and sugar, and stir in
later the beaten whites of the eggs. Flavor with vanilla.
Charlotte a la Parisienne
Cut horizontally, in half-inch slices, a sponge cake, and
cover each slice with a different kind of preserve. Pile the
slices in their original form, and spread over the whole cake a
stiff icing. One kind of preserve, instead of several, may be
used for this charlotte, and pound cake instead of sponge cake.
CHARLOTTE KUSSE.
Facing ipage 310
WINE JELLY WITH GRxiPES.
(See p. 316.)
COLD PUDDINGS, CREAMS, MERINGUES, AND ICES 311
Chocolate Blanc-mange
Soak one ounce of gelatine for fifteen minutes in one cup of
cold milk, then add two cups and a half of boiling milk. Mix
a quarter of a pound of grated chocolate with half a cup of
cold milk and add it to the gelatine with six tablespoons of
granulated sugar. Place this in a saucepan over the fire and
stir constantly until it boils. Remove from the fire, stir in
one tablespoon of vanilla extract, and when cooled pour into
the moulds, which have previously been rinsed with cold water
and sprinkled with granulated sugar. Set in cold place until
firm. Serve with liquid cream sauce.
Cornucopias
One egg will make twelve cornucopias. Mix with it just as
much powdered sugar and just as much flour as the egg meas-
ures in a cup. Stir until smooth. Butter some tin sheets.
Spread the mixture very thin and a spoonful at a time on the
sheets. Allow sufficient space for them not to touch. When
baked in a quick oven, they should be the size of a saucer.
Remove from the sheets and quickly twist them in the shape
of a cornucopia. Fill each one with whipped cream. One
must work rapidly, else the cake will harden.
Caramel Custard with Sauce
Half a cup of sugar, six eggs, two tablespoons of water, half
a teaspoon of salt, a teaspoon of vanilla, and one quart of milk.
Put the sugar in a pan over the fire and stir until it melts and
is a light brown. Add the water and stir into a part of the
milk, which has been warmed. Beat the eggs, add the salt
and vanilla, and the rest of the milk ; strain into the milk
which has been combined with the sugar and pour into a
mould. Set the mould in a pan of warm water and bake
thirty or forty minutes. To find out if the custard is done,
312 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
cut in it with a knife. If the knife comes out clean, it is done.
Serve cold.
Caramel Sauce
Put half a cup of sugar into a pan and stir over the fire
till brown. Add half a cup of boiling water and simmer ten
minutes.
Coffee Flummery
Soak four sheets of gelatine in two scant pints of water over
night. The next morning set the gelatine over the fire to melt
and add a cup of coffee, made of the strength of two table-
spoons of ground coffee. Set away to cool, having sweetened
to taste. When the jelly begins to set, beat the whites of two
eggs and a small half cup of sugar and add it to the jelly,
then beat all until solid and white. Serve cold.
Croquante of Oranges
Remove the peel and white skin from six oranges. Then
divide them by pulling them in small sections, taking care not
to break the skin which envelops the pulp. Put half a pound
of the finest lump sugar into a sugar boiler, with just enough
water to cover it, and boil it down until it becomes brittle. To
test it, when it begins to boil up in big bubbles, take a little on
the point of a knife and instantly dip it in cold water. If the
sugar becomes set, it is sufficiently boiled and will easily snap
in breaking. Remove from the fire. The pieces of orange,
stuck on the point of a small wooden skewer, must be slightly
dipped in the sugar and arranged at the bottom and round the
sides of a plain circular mould, which has been rubbed lightly
with olive oil. When the pieces of orange are arranged and
the sugar has become firm by cooling, just before sending to
table fill the inside of the croquante with whipped cream,
sugared and flavored with a glass of maraschino and some
whole strawberries. Invert on a dish and serve.
COLD PUDDINGS, CREAMS, MERINGUES, AND ICES 313
Fanchonette
Crush two cups of red raspberries and cook them with one
cup of granulated sugar until they are thick. Add the juice of
half a lemon. AVhen thoroughly cooled, stir in four finely
crushed lady's fingers. Beat this mixture, a spoonful at a time,
into the stiffly beaten whites of four eggs. Line a mould with
blanched almonds and fill it with the mixture. Set this mould
in a pan of boiling water and bake in the oven for twenty-five
minutes. When cool, invert it on a dish and serve with cus-
tard sauce.
Gooseberry Fool
Cut the ends and stems off large, ripe gooseberries and put
them in a jar or bowl with a little water and a little moistened
sugar. Set the jar or bowl in a saucepan of boiling water and
cook the fruit until it is soft enough to mash. Then rub it
through a colander, and to every pint of pulp add one pint of
milk, or milk and cream mixed. Sweeten it to taste.
Gooseberry Pool
Top and stalk a quart of green gooseberries and stew them
with a little water in an earthen dish till they are plump and
tender. Put them through a fine sieve and sweeten the jam to
taste and put it in the dish in which you wish to serve it.
Whip a quart of thick cream till it is stiff, stir in a wine-glass
of brandy and, if you wish, a little nutmeg. Heap the cream
upon the jam and serve cold.
Another Kind of Fool
Another kind of fool may be made by taking a quart of
strawberries and raspberries, a pint of each, mashing them,
straining them, sweetening them, not cooking the pulp, but
beating it with cream, after the manner of strawberry fool. In
this the brandy may be omitted.
314 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Apple Jelly-
Take a pound of granulated sugar, put it in a porcelain
kettle with a pint of cold water, and let it boil till it is a rich
syrup. Into this syrup drop as many quarters of apples as the
sugar will absorb, adding also the juice of two lemons. Boil
until the whole is quite thick, pour into a mould, and set on
the ice. Serve piled high and set about with whipped cream.
Jelly a la Macedoine
Dissolve an ounce and a half of gelatine in one quart of
water, add three-quarters of a pound of granulated sugar, and
the juice of two lemons. Mix in a saucepan with the whites of
two eggs which have been well beaten. Stir over a slow fire
until the mixture comes to a boil. As soon as it boils, add a
few drops of cold water, skim off the froth, and strain through
a wet cloth. When partially cool, add one pint of Sherry.
Pack a round jelly mould in a pail of broken ice. Pour in
a little jelly, and when that has set add a layer of preserved
fruit, such as peaches, apricots, plums, etc. Then cover with
more jelly. Continue until the mould is full, taking care to
have each layer of jelly set, and alternating with different
kinds of fruit. When all is well set, — it takes about two
hours, — dip the mould in tepid water and invert on a dish.
The preserved fruits should be well dried before putting into
the jelly, as moisture would prevent the jelly from congealing.
Fresh fruit may be used.
Coffee Jelly
Make one pint and a half of strong coffee, sweeten to taste,
dissolve one-quarter of a pound of sheet gelatine in water,
strain it, and mix with the coffee liquid. This jelly need not
be cleared. Pour into a mould or moulds and when cold and
firm serve with whipped cream.
COLD PUDDINGS, CREAMS, MEBINGUES, AND ICES 315
Lemon Jelly-
When lemon jelly is desired, make the same as in the first
wine jelly receipt given below, but omit the wine flavoring,
and substitute the grated rind of two lemons before cooking
the liquid. After it is strained, add the strained juice of five
lemons.
Whipped Lemon Jelly
Mix one quart of water with half a pound of granulated
sugar, the grated rind of four lemons, the juice of six large
lemons, and one ounce and a half of gelatine, previously dis-
solved and strained. Stir over the fire until the sugar and
gelatine are thoroughly melted and the liquid is lukewarm.
Strain through a fine sieve. When the jelly begins to congeal,
beat it with a wire whisk until it is frothy, then pour it into a
mould and pack it in cracked ice. Serve very cold.
Orange Jelly-
Dissolve one ounce and a half of gelatine in a scant half
pint of boiling water, then strain. Mix three teacups of
orange juice with one teacup of lemon juice, strain, and add to
the gelatine. Sweeten to taste with loaf sugar and boil five or
ten minutes. Beat the whites of tw^o eggs with the eggshells,
stir in the mixture, and strain through a jelly bag. Rinse a
mould with cold water, pour the jelly into it, and set in cold
place till it becomes cold.
Wine Jelly
Mix one box of Cox's gelatine with one pint of cold water
and let it stand ten minutes, then pour in one quart of boiling
water and stir until all is dissolved. Into a separate vessel put
one pint of Sherry, one lemon, the rind cut up as for lemonade,
the white and shell of one egg^ a little nutmeg, and about half
a dozen cloves. When the gelatine is cold, add this mixture to
316 MRS. SEELY'S cook BOOK
it. Boil it five minutes without stirring. Remove from the
fire and let it stand five minutes to settle, then strain through
a flannel bag, pour it into moulds, and set in a cool place.
Wine Jelly-
Soak half a pound of gelatine in enough water to dissolve it.
Add to it two pounds of granulated sugar, the juice of three
lemons, the whites of two eggs, and two quarts of water. Stir
constantly over a clear fire until it is nearly boiling. Place at
the side of range, and when nearly cold strain it through a wet
cloth. Flavor to taste with Madeira or any wine you desire.
Pour into a mould previously dipped in cold water, and when
cold and firm invert on a dish.
Wine Jelly-
Four pints and three-quarters of water, one pint and one-
quarter of Sherry, three sliced lemons, two ounces of gelatine
soaked in the water, three and a half cups of sugar, the w^hites
and shells of three eggs. Stir all together and boil ten minutes
without stirring. If this receipt is too sweet, lessen to three
cups of sugar and taste. Set a colander over a crock or pan,
lay a wet piece of cheese-cloth over it, pour the jelly in and let
it drip through ; never squeeze it. Wet a dish with cold water
and pour in the jelly when cool, and set it on ice till it hardens.
For serving, take out the jelly with a tablespoon and slightly
break it and pile in the dish.
Lady Washington Pudding
Sift four ounces of flour into a bowl, make a hollow in the
centre, and put in the yolks of two eggs, three ounces of butter,
the finely grated peel of half a lemon, and one tablespoon of
cream. Mix all to a firm paste. Mix four ounces of almond
paste with the whites of two eggs. Add to the other mixture
and work it with a wire whisk for five minutes. Place it on a
COLD PUDDINGS, CREAMS, MERINGUES, AND ICES 317
pastry board and work it for a few minutes. Form it in an
oblong ball and place it on the ice for one hour. Tlien roll out
the paste till it is one-fourth of an inch thick and cut it into a
round piece — as large a piece as you wish. Lay it on buttered
paper on a baking sheet. Brush over with beaten egg and
bake in a medium hot oven till it is a fine golden brown.
When it is cold, put one quart of strawberries in the centre.
Sprinkle four tablespoons of powdered sugar over them. Whip
one pint of cream and color it with strained strawberry juice.
Whip another pint. Put a part of each in separate cornuco-
pias and make a border of fancy rosettes, first one of white,
then one of pink round the edge. Put the rest of the cream,
Avhich has been sweetened with three tablespoons of sugar and
flavored to taste Avith vanilla, in fancy shapes all over the straw-
berries, making even waves as you go along. By using these
waves the cake can be cut evenly and neatly. It is a good
plan to cut the cake before decorating, as the effect is spoiled
if the cake is cut way through after the decoration is put on.
Place some small meringue shells filled with pink cream round
the edge of the dish.
Lemon Fromage
Dissolve one cup of granulated sugar in one pint of water.
Add the peel of one lemon and the juice of three lemons. Boil
five minutes ; add one ounce of gelatine which has been soaked
in half a pint of water. Stir all together until the gelatine is
dissolved, then strain. When the liquid is cold and begins to
thicken, stir in a pint of whipped cream, pour into a form, and
place on ice for two hours or more.
Matrimony
Pare and cut in small pieces two dozen peaches, cover them
thickly with sugar, and let them stand three or four hours.
Beat them in a quart of sweetened cream and freeze.
318 MRS. seely's cook book
Melrose Pudding
The whites of six eggs, one cup of powdered sugar, three-
fourths of a cup of flour, half a teaspoon of cream of tartar. Beat
the whites very stiff, lightly stir in the sugar which has been
sifted, then add the cream of tartar dissolved in a little warm
water. Stir in the flour, which has been sifted twice, and one
teaspoon of vanilla. Dip a fancy shaped cake pan in cold
water, dredge it with sugar, and pour in the cake mixture.
Bake in a slow oven thirty minutes. Make the following fill-
ing : Cut very fine three marrons, three candied plums, ten
candied cherries, and one slice of candied pineapple. Soak
them in maraschino for one hour. Whip half a pint of cream
very stiff and stir in the candied fruit. Put in a cool place or
on ice for one hour. Take your cake, and with a fancy cutter
or a pastry wheel cut out the top. Scoop out the inside. At
the bottom put some marmalade or strawberries that have been
crushed and sweetened. Then pour in your cream mixture,
replace the top of the cake, and cover with some of the whipped
cream colored with strained strawberry juice. Pour the cream
through a paper cornucopia and give it fanciful shapes. Spin
a little sugar and put round the dish.
Nesselrode Pudding
Boil three dozen French chestnuts, and when they are done
peel, pound in a mortar, and rub them through a sieve. Put
this pulp in a stewpan with the yolks of eight eggs, one pint
of cream, one pint of pineapple syrup, a little bit of salt, and
vanilla to taste. Stir the mixture constantly over the fire
until the eggs are sufficiently set, then strain it through a wet
cloth. Cut in small pieces four ounces of citron, six ounces of
pineapple — cooked in the syrup above alluded to — six ounces
of candied cherries, and four ounces of raisins. Soak them
three or four hours in two ounces of maraschino. Freeze in
COLB PUDDINGS, CREAMS, MERmOUES, AND ICES 319
the usual manner. When about half frozen, add half a pint of
whipped cream and the fruit. When the pudding is thor-
oughly frozen, pack it in a mould and keep it covered with
cracked ice until served.
Meringues
Have at hand one pound of sifted powdered sugar and the
whites of twelve eggs. Beat the whites with a wire whisk
until they become a perfectly smooth, substantial froth. Then
with a spoon lightly mix in the sugar. Do not work the mixture
any more than is necessary, else it will become soft and the
meringues will be difficult to mould. The firmer the mixture,
the better shape the meringues will be. Cut some heavy white
paper in strips about two inches wide. Then take a tablespoon
and gather it nearly full of the mixture by working it up at the
side of the bowl in the form of an egg. Drop this slopingly on
one of the strips of paper, at the same time drawing the edge
of the spoon round the outer base of the meringue, so as to give
it a smooth and round appearance — make it resemble an egg as
near as possible. Place each meringue at least two inches and
a half apart. As each band is filled, place it close beside the
others on the table. When all the mixture is used, shake some
rather coarse sifted sugar over the meringues and let them
stand three minutes. Take hold of one of the bands at each
end, shake off the loose sugar, and place the band on a board.
Treat each band the same way. Place the board, or boards,
side by side in a veri/ moderate oven and bake slowly until the
meringues are a light fawn color. This will probably take
fifty minutes. When done, carefully remove each meringue
from the paper; w4th a desert-spoon scoop out the white part
inside, keeping them nicely smooth. Arrange them on a tin
baking sheet and put them in the oven to dry. Great care
must be taken not to brown them any more. Just before serv-
ing, whip some cream very stiff, flavor it with sifted powdered
820 MES. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
sugar and vanilla, or any kind of liquor. Put a spoonful in
each meringue, join two together, and arrange on a napkin in
the form of a pyramid. Instead of the whipped cream you
may use any kind of preserve or ice-cream. The board men-
tioned above should be of well-seasoned wood and about one
inch thick, its size proportioned to your oven. You must have
ample room for turning the boards about.
Apple Meringues
Peel and core six nice greening apples and make a good-sized
space in the middle of each apple. In a saucepan put two cups
of water, one cup of granulated sugar, two whole cloves, and a
little dash of nutmeg. When this comes to a boil, put in the
apples and cook them till they are tender. Test them with a
broom whisk. When one side is done, turn the apples and
have care not to break them. When they are cooked, take
them out of the syrup and set them away to cool. Strain the
syrup and save it for further use. Into a bowl sift half a
pound of granulated sugar. Beat the whites of two eggs to
a very stiff froth and add the sugar by degrees, cutting the
whites down and folding them over. When the granulated
sugar is mixed in, add four tablespoons of powdered sugar.
Put your apples in a baking dish, fill the centres with straw-
berries which have been sprinkled with powdered sugar. When
the apples are filled with the strawberries, cover each one with
meringue. Put them in a slow oven for thirty minutes or more
to color them a light brown. Do not take them out till they
are thoroughly dry. Should the oven be too hot, the meringue
will spoil. Take them from the oven, and when thoroughly
cold with a long-bladed knife turn the shells apple side up.
Whip a pint of rich cream, put it in a pastry bag, and form a
rosette on each apple. Mount a strawberry on top and serve
on fancy papers. The syrup the apples were cooked in may be
used for bread pudding, sauces, baked apples, or deep apple pie.
MERINGUE SHELLS FILLED WITH PISTACHIO CREAM.
Facing page 320.
ORAXGE BASKETS FILLED AVITH JELLY.
(See p. 330.)
COLD PUDDINGS, CBEAMS, MERINGUES, AND ICES 321
Boiled Meringue Shells
Boil half a pound of granulated sugar and a quarter of a
pint of water for ten minutes until they form a large ball.
You test the sugar by dipping a spoon in cold water and then
taking a little of the boiled sugar and dropping it into a bowl
of cold water. Then by taking the sugar between your fingers
if you find it forms a ball, it has cooked to the right degree.
Add the well-beaten whites of three eggs to the hot sugar, and
stir constantly till it begins to cool. Then set it on the ice for
ten minutes. Have a board well oiled with olive oil. Put a
sheet of white paper over it. On this drop the sugar in spoon-
fuls, either large or small as you wish. Put them one inch
apart, so they will not adhere to each other. Bake in a slow
oven until they are a delicate brown. Fill with cream, and
serve as above.
Lemon Meringue
Dissolve two cups of stale bread crumbs in one quart of
milk, add one cup of sugar, the beaten yolks of four eggs, and
the grated rind of one lemon. Beat all together until very
light, then pour in a buttered baking dish and bake in a mod-
erate oven for half an hour, or until firm. Beat the whites of
the four eggs with four tablespoons of powdered sugar and the
juice of one lemon to a stiff froth and spread over the pudding.
Place in a quick oven and bake to a light brown. This pud-
ding may be served cold or hot.
Strawberry Meringue
The whites of seven eggs, seven tablespoons of powdered
sugar, a quarter of a teaspoon of salt, and half a cup of pre-
served strawberries. Beat the eggs to a stiff froth, then with
a spoon gradually beat the powdered sugar and salt into the
froth. Butter a two-quart pudding dish and line the bottom
with meringue. Drop in the preserves by the half spoonful,
322 MES. seelt's cook book
alternating the fruit and froth until all is used. Bake in a
moderate oven twenty-five minutes. Serve very cold with
whipped cream.
Porto Rico Witches
Cut in thin slices, pound, sponge, or other cake, and spread
half of each slice with guava jelly, or with straw^berry, raspberry,
or currant jelly if wished. On the jelly strew thickly fresh
grated cocoanut. Press over it the other half of the slice and
trim the whole to a good form. Pile the slices in mountain
form upon a dish covered with a white napkin and garnish with
sprigs of myrtle or other tropical green.
Pudding a la Prancaise
Six ounces of crumbs, four ounces of flour, six ounces of beef
marrow, six ounces of chopped apples, two ounces of mixed
chopped peel, four ounces of apricot jam, two ounces of raspberry
jam, five eggs, and half a pint of milk. Mix well, boil for three
hours, and serve with liquid brandy sauce.
Creanied Rice
Boil one cup of rice in a little milk until it is well cooked.
Use a double boiler. While the rice is hot, stir in a quarter of
a box of gelatine, already dissolved in milk, and sweeten to taste.
When cold, mix in one pint of whipped cream and vanilla too
taste. Dip a melon mould in cold water, drain, and fill it with
the rice mixture. Set on ice five or six hours.
Rice Timbale
Line a timbale mould with puff paste and set on the ice to
cool. Cook two ounces of rice in one cup of milk until per-
fectly smooth, add the yolks of two eggs, and four tablespoons
of granulated sugar. Mix thoroughly and strain through a
COLD PUDDINGS, CREAMS, MERINGUES, AND ICES 323
puree sieve. Stir in the well-beaten whites of the two eggs, and
when cool, line the mould, which has already been lined with
paste, with rice. Set in a cool place. Peel and quarter and
remove the cores of two nice apples, place in a saucepan with
two gills of water and four tablespoons of powdered sugar.
Boil until the apples are tender and stir in six or seven pre-
served apricots, six spoons of marmalade, and a little Sherry.
When this mixture is cold, place in the centre of the mould.
Spread more rice on top and cover all with puff paste cut to fit
the top. Place in an ice-box for half an hour, then place the
mould in the oven and bake for thirty minutes, or until the
paste is a nice brown. Chill it thoroughly, turn it on a dish,
and serve with whipped cream.
Iced Rice Pudding a la Cerito
Wash and parboil a quarter of a pound of rice. Drain it,
and put it in a saucepan with one pint of milk, half a pint of
cream, six ounces of granulated sugar, a little salt and vanilla
to taste. Boil over a slow fire until the grains are almost dis-
solved, stirring it lightly at times while it is cooking. When
done, add the yolks of three eggs and stir thoroughly to mix in
the eggs and to break up and smooth the rice. Pack the mix-
ture in a fancy mould with a hollow centre and freeze. Pre-
pare oranges in the following way: Remove the rind and white
pith, cut the fruit in half, remove the core and seeds, leaving
only the transparent pulp. Place them in a saucepan with half
a pint of syrup made as follows: Cook half a pound of granu-
lated sugar and a scant half pint of water till you have a smooth
syrup. In this boil the oranges three minutes, then drain them
on a sieve. Boil the syrup down to half its quantity, stir in two
wine-glasses of curaQoa, and three tablespoons of apricot jam.
Mix thoroughly and pour over the oranges. Invert the mould
on a plate, fill with the oranges and syrup, and serve.
324 MRS. seely's cook book
Snow Eggs
Have at hand four eggs, three gills of milk, sugar to taste,
and flavoring of lemon rind or vanilla. Put the milk in a sauce-
pan with enough sugar to sweeten it and add the rind of half
a lemon. Let this steep slowly at the side of the range for half
an hour. Then remove the peel. Separate the yolks from the
whites of the eggs and whisk the whites to a perfectly stiff
froth, or until there is no liquid remaining. Bring the milk to
a boiling point, drop the snow, — a tablespoon at a time, — and
keep turning them until sufficiently cooked. Then place them
in a glass dish. Beat up the yolks of the eggs, add them to the
milk. Mix thoroughly and then strain through a wet cloth.
Put into a bowl, and set the bowl in a saucepan of boiling water.
Stir it one way until the mixture thickens. Do not allow it
to boil, else it will curdle. Pour this custard over the eggs.
They should rise to the surface. Set in a cool place until served.
Snow Pudding
Soak two teaspoons of gelatine in a little cold water, add one
pint of hot water in which one cup of sugar has been dissolved,
and the juice of two lemons. Beat the whites of two eggs, add
and beat the whole mixture half an hour, or until it sets.
Savarin a la Creme
One-half cup of butter, one cup of granulated sugar, half a
cup of milk, three eggs, one large cup of flour, and one tea-
spoon of baking powder. Flavor with a little rum. Cream the
butter and sugar, then the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, mix
thoroughly and stir in the milk. Sift the flour and baking
powder together and add to the mixture. Lastly, add the
well-beaten whites of the eggs and the rum flavoring. Bake
in a round buttered pan in a moderate oven forty minutes.
This mixture will make two medium-sized cakes. When baked
and thoroughly cool, cut out the top crust, remove the inside of
COLD PUDDINGS, CREAMS, MERINGUES, AND ICES 325
the cake, and fill with fresh fruit of all kinds cut into small
pieces, and mixed thoroughly with half a cup of maraschino.
Decorate with whipped cream and some of the fresh fruit.
Waffle Charlotte a la Tortoni with Glaze
/^ Make a batter of the following: Sift two cups of flour with
one heaping teaspoon of baking powder and rub into it two
tablespoons of butter. When well mixed, add one cup of milk,
half a teaspoon of salt, three eggs, one after the other, stirring
in one thoroughly before the next is added. Have your waffle
iron hot and well greased, pour your mixture into a pitcher, and
pour on the waffle iron. Turn every minute or two until both
sides are a delicate brown. When all are baked, set aside for
future use. Make the following preparation: Put in a double
boiler the yolks of six eggs, two tablespoons of granulated sugar,
three tablespoons of maraschino, and two tablespoons of Madeira.
Put over the fire and stir five minutes, or until it begins to
thicken. Then set it away in ice water to cool. When cold,
thoroughly mix it with a pint of whipped cream, two tablespoons
of powdered sugar, and one teaspoon of vanilla. Set in a cool
place until wanted. Make a glaze of sugar and dip each side
of the waffle in it. Lay one waffle in the bottom of the dish
you are to serve it in and make a circle all round the dish.
When firm on the dish, fill in with the Tortoni mixture. Set
away to cool. Take a glass of red currant jelly, cook for
twenty minutes, or until it will thread when pulled. Pull while
it is hot into wicker and work round the waffles three rows
deep, one at the bottom, one in the middle, and one on the edge,
giving the appearance of a basket.
To make Glaze to join Waffles
Place one cup of granulated sugar over the fire with three
teaspoons of water. Cook ten minutes. Dip in edges of the
waffles and join while hot.
326 3IBS. seelt's cook book
Reform Syllabub
Soak a quarter of a box of gelatine in a little cold water, say-
four tablespoons, setting the cup in hot water till the gelatine
is well dissolved. Whip a pint of rich cream to a froth and stir
in it three ounces of powdered sugar. Be careful to stir lightly
and not break the froth of the cream. Strain in the gelatine
next, exercising the same care, and as the syllabub thickens, with
the gelatine, stir in also four tablespoons of Sherry and a small
teaspoon of vanilla. Add two-thirds of a cup of blanched al-
monds chopped fine, and pour the mixture into punch glasses.
Set on ice till thoroughly chilled, and serve. The cream may be
colored a rose color or green by the use of vegetable coloring.
Biscuit Glace
Dissolve one pound of sugar in a pint of water and boil five
minutes. Let it cool, and when ready for freezing add a pint
of rich cream and eight *or ten powdered macaroons. Serve in
punch or lemonade glasses and garnish, if you wish, with can-
died cherries and other fruit.
Cantaloupe a la Buo
Having washed and thoroughly chilled fine cantaloupes, cut
them in halves and remove carefully all seeds and stringy part
clinging to the seeds. Pack the halves with ice-cream, garnish
with cold peaches cut in quarters, eighths, circles, or any shape
your fancy directs, and serve at once. Other fruit may be used
instead of peaches, the seasons and the interchange of markets
sometimes permitting strawberries.
Chestnut Ice-cream
Peel and roast eighteen large chestnuts and boil until thor-
oughly done in the syrup made with half a pound of granulated
sugar. Drain and rub through a puree sieve. Dilute the syrup
CHOCOLATE MOUSSE.
vc.! \vcv'
Facing page 326.
MOULD FOR CHOCOLATE MOUSSE.
COLD PUDDINGS, CREAMS, MERINGUES, AND ICES 327
with one pint of milk, the yolks of sixteen eggs. Add t\^lve
ounces of powdered sugar and a vanilla bean cut in short pieces.
Put over the fire and stir until the mixture thickens. Rub
through a fine sieve and stir in one quart of raw cream.
Freeze in the usual way. Pack in the mould and salted ice for
at least two hours before serving.
Chocolate Ice-cream
Put a pint and a half of milk in a double boiler and scald
it. Beat two cups of sugar and four eggs together. When
they are light, add to the scalded milk. Stir constantly and
cook for fifteen minutes. Grate one ounce of chocolate and
place over the fire with three tablespoons of sugar and one table-
spoonful of water. When thoroughly smooth, stir this into
the milk. When cool, stir in one quart of cream. Freeze with
salt and ice, then mould and serve.
Coffee Ice-cream
Put the yolks of ten eggs in a basin with twelve ounces of
sugar, a pint of good extract of coffee, and a pint of milk. Mix
well, put over the fire and stir steadily with a wooden spoon
until the preparation thickens. Strain at once through a fine
sieve and stir at times while cooling. When cool, add a pint
of raw cream. Mix well and freeze in the usual way. Serve
either moulded in form or rocher-like on a folded napkin.
Coffee Mousse
Dissolve half a box of gelatine in a little milk, mix it with
one cup of strong coffee, sweeten to taste with granulated sugar,
and strain. Set away to cool. When it begins to stiffen, beat
it up with an egg-beater till it becomes a froth, then add a pint of
whipped cream. Mix thoroughly and fill a fancy shaped mould
and set on the ice until hard. Invert on a platter and serve
with whipped cream.
328 MBS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Cafe Prappe
Boil one quart of water with half a cup of sugar, add four
ounces of ground coffee, and set at the side of the stove for ten
minutes. Strain, and when cold add the white of one egg.
Freeze, and serve in individual glasses topped with whipped
cream.
Plombureaux Cafe
Pour a pint and a half of boiling cream over three table-
spoons of ground coffee and let it stand well covered ten minutes.
Strain through a cloth. Put the coffee cream in a saucepan
over the fire with one cup of granulated sugar and the yolks of
eight eggs. Stir until nearly boiling. Remove from the fire,
set the saucepan in cold water, and stir until cold. Place in a
freezer and freeze until it thickens, and then add a pint of
whipped cream. Pack in a mould and freeze.
Frozen Jardiniere
Line a mould with strawberry ice. Cut some candied pine-
apple, candied cherries, and angelica in small pieces, steep them
in maraschino for a few hours, then add some pistachio nuts.
Boil one cup of sugar and half a cup of water until they form a
soft ball. Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff foam and stir
in the syrup. Beat constantly until it is cold. Whip one pint
of cream stiff, add to the meringue, drain the fruit, add that, and
mix all well together. Have your mould containing the straw-
berry ice well chilled, fill with the preparation, fasten on the
cover securely, pack well in salt and ice, and freeze four hours.
Our Grandmother's Fruit en Chemise or Perle
Choose very fine bunches of red and white currants, large
ripe cherries on their stems, and gooseberries, raspberries, or
strawberries with the hulls on. Beat up the white of an egg
COLD PUDDINGS, CREAMS, MERINGUES, AND ICES 329
with a trifle of cold water, dip the fruit in the mixture, drain
for an instant on a sieve, roll it in fine sugar until it is covered,
shake it gently, and lay it on white paper to dry. It will dry
gradually in a warm room in two or three hours. Serve ice
cold.
Lalla Rookh
To one quart of heavy cream whipped in an earthen bowl
until it is very, very light add the well-beaten yolks of eight
eggs, enough finely sifted powdered sugar to taste, and half a tea-
cup of Jamaica rum. Put in a freezer, and when nearly frozen
add three dozen maraschino cherries cut in half and one dozen
marrons, or French chestnuts, cut in pieces about the size of a
half cherry. Freeze till about as stiff as a mousse. Prepare
and have it frozen half an hour before serving. The above
is enough for twelve persons.
Lemon Sherbet
Mix a pint and a half of sugar and three pints of boiling
water and boil together twenty-five minutes. Add the juice of
ten lemons, cool, and freeze. Over each cup of this ice as it is
served may be poured a spoonful of Roman punch. See receipt
on page 403.
Maple Ice-cream
Put on to boil a cup of maple syrup, add the yolks of two
eggs, and cook until the mixture thickens. Then add one cup
of cream well whipped. Freeze.
Orange Ice
Let one quart of water and one pint of granulated sugar boil
together twenty minutes. Mix the grated yellow rind of two
oranges, a pint of orange juice, and the juice of two lemons.
Strain, and add to the sugar and water. When cool, freeze,
330 3IES. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
pack in a mould, cover with salted ice, and let it stand two
hours before serving.
Orange Sherbet
Take two tablespoons of gelatine, dissolve it in a little cold
water, let it stand an hour, and then pour over it a little boiling
water. Mix the juice of ten oranges with one pint of sugar and
one quart of cold water. Add the gelatine and freeze.
Frozen Oranges
In eight even-sized smooth oranges cut an inch wide round
hole on the stem side. Take out the pulp with the small end
of a teaspoon. Soak the skins in cold water, drain, and scrape
the inside smoothly without injuring the peel. Cut candied
fruits such as citron, angelica, raisins, orange peel, etc., in small
pieces and soak in maraschino. Mix these with enough orange
ice to fill the oranges. Fill each orange. Cover with the
small pieces taken out. Place the oranges in a freezer. Cover
the freezer with salted ice at least two hours before the oranges
are served. Arrange each one whole on a folded napkin and
serve.
Compote of Oranges, a Jewish Dish
Wash and quarter some fine oranges, arrange the quarters
neatly in a dish, and just before serving pour over them a sugar
syrup in which the rind of a grated orange is mixed. Garnish
the dish with preserved citron cut in flower and leaf designs.
Wined Peaches
Pare and slice half a dozen large, finely flavored peaches and
arrange them in graceful order in a glass dish. Put over them
enough sugar to sweeten them well, pour over them two or three
glasses of Champagne, and serve. Any wine harmonizing with
peach. taste may be substituted for the Champagne. By some a
fruity brandy is preferred to wine. Set on the ice, and serve
well chilled.
COLD PUDDINGS, GEE AM S, MERINGUES, AND ICES 331
Baked Pears
Wipe some large, sound, iron pears and arrange them in a
porcelain baking dish with the stalk ends upward. Pour a little
water over them and enough good molasses to sweeten them
thoroughly. Bake in slow oven several hours. If baked
slowly, they will be juicy, sweet, and tender in flesh and skin.
They gain in flavor if they are basted now and then with the
molasses and water in which they cook. If the oven is hot, put
a cover over the dish while they are baking.
Creamed Pineapple
Chop, or better grate, a fine fresh pineapple and add to it
the juice of a lemon. Take half a box of gelatine which you
have thoroughly dissolved in a cup of cold water — if necessary
by setting the cup in a dish of hot water for a time — and pour
over the pineapple. Stir it well and set it on ice till a trifle
stiff. Then add the beaten whites of four eggs. Mould and
serve with whipped cream sweetened and flavored to taste.
Instead of the pineapple, strawberries may be used, or peaches,
or red raspberries. If you use the berries, crush them, while
the peaches may be cut small with a silver knife. Chill
thoroughly and serve.
Pineapple Syllabub
Beat the whites of three eggs stiff, and to them add gradu-
ally three tablespoons of powdered sugar and a couple of tea-
spoons of Sherry, or, if you prefer, a teaspoon of Sherry and one
of vanilla or orange juice. Whip a pint of cream to a stiff froth
and fold in, a spoonful at a time, the eggs and sugar. Have
ready a fine, fresh-grated pineapple. After you have mixed the
cream and eggs, add the grated fruit, stirring it in a little at a
time. Put the syllabub in punch or lemonade glasses. Set on
ice till well chilled, and serve.
332 MES. seely's cook book
Plum Pudding" Ice-cream
Cut plum pudding or rich fruit cake in slices, dip the pieces
in brandy, and break them to crumbs. Have ready an ice
cream, — it is best without flavoring of any kind, — freeze the
cream, and then stir in the plum pudding and pack.
Raspberry Ice
Mix one quart of water, one pound of sugar, the juice of two
lemons, one box of fine raspberries well crushed, and the whites
of two eggs well beaten. Freeze.
Roman Punch
Boil one pound of granulated sugar and one quart of water
ten minutes. Set away to cool. When thoroughly chilled, add
the strained juice of twelve lemons and one jelly tumbler of
Jamaica rum. Put all in a freezer, and when nearly frozen add
the whites of six eggs whipped to a stiff froth, then finish freez-
ing, and servCo
Strawberry Bavaroise
Mix one quart of large, ripe strawberries with four table-
spoons of sifted powdered sugar. Rub through a puree sieve and
prepare the following: Dissolve an ounce and a half of gelatine
in one gill of water, add half a pound of powdered sugar, and
when thoroughly dissolved, add the juice of one orange and
fifteen drops of lemon juice. Strain through a sieve. As the
mixture cools, stir constantly, and gradually add the strawberry
juice. Place it on the ice, and as it thickens stir in four table-
spoons of whipped cream. Place in a mould and cover with
cracked ice and rock salt. When frapped, serve in individual
glass cups and ornament each cup with cream prepared as
follows : —
Mix a pint of cream with four heaping teaspoons of sifted
powdered sugar, the juice of one lemon, and a tablespoon of thick
liquid gelatine. Whip until it becomes stiff.
(JOLL PUDDINGS, CREAMS, MERINGUES, AND ICES S33
Strawberry Ice
Dissolve two sheets of gelatine, moistening with a little cold
water and adding a scant pint of boiling water. Add a quart
and a half of cold water, four cups of sugar, the juice of three
lemons, and two boxes of fine ripe berries, well crushed. This
quantity will make a three -quart freezer full.
Strawberry Ice
Put one quart of fresh strawberries in a bowl and over them
sprinkle two cups of powdered sugar. Let them stand two
hours, press them through a fine sieve, add the juice of two
lemons, a pint of water, and strain and freeze.
Strawberry Ice
Cook a cup and a half of granulated sugar for five minutes
and let it stand until it gets cold. Add the juice of one lemon,
one orange, and three tablespoons of strawberry syrup. Set in
a cool place until it is time to freeze.
Iced Compote of Strawberries
Pick and put on the ice in a large crystal compote dish three
pints of red ripe strawberries. Mix a gill of thick strawberry
syrup with a pint of good Sauterne or Marsala. Put this in a
freezer, freeze in the common way, and spread it over the berries.
Serve at once.
Strawberry Nesselrode
Line a mould with strawberry ice, cover it tightly, and set it
in rock salt and ice until the following preparation is made:
Cut up in fine pieces a slice of candied pineapple, some candied
cherries, pistachio nuts, some candied plums, — pink, green, and
white, — and a few raisins. In all have four ounces. Cover
them with maraschino or Sherry, according to taste. Let them
stand two hours. In a saucepan put one cup of granulated
33^ MRS. seely's cook book
sugar and half a cup of cold water and cook steadily over a slow
fire ten minutes. Test it by dropping a little of the syrup in
cold water. When you can form it into a soft ball, the syrup
has reached the right degree. Have the whites of three eggs
beaten so you can cut them with a knife. Pour the hot syrup
slowly into the whites, stirring constantly. Place the bowl in
cold water and stir the mixture until it is cold. Whip a pint
of cream until it is stiff and flavor with one tablespoon of
vanilla. Drain your candied fruits and stir them into the
whipped cream. Put this mixture in the mould you have lined
with strawberry ice. Put some more strawberry ice on top.
Cover it securely and pack closely in rock salt and ice. Let
it stand four hours. When wanted, dip your mould in tepid
water, remove the cover, and turn your cream on a dish. Put
a garland of candied fruit around the edge.
Strawberry Punch
Hull a quart of fine fresh strawberries, cover them with three
cups of sugar, and set them away till the sugar has drawn out
their juice, and they stand in a red syrup. Then put the sj^rup
and berries through a fine sieve and add a claret glass of sweet
wine and a cup and a half of water. Stir well together and
freeze. Serve in punch or lemonade glasses.
Tutti Frutti Ice-cream
The yolks of six eggs, one tablespoon of flour, one cup of
powdered sugar, and one pint of milk. Beat the sugar, egg
yolks, and flour together. Boil the milk, mix thoroughly with
the other ingredients, and pour all into a double boiler. Cook
to a thick custard and set away to cool. When cold, stir in
one pint of rich cream. Pour into a freezer and freeze until
the mixture becomes creamy. Have at hand some candied fruits,
cherries, etc., which have been soaked in maraschino, also some
COLD PUDDINGS, CREAMS, MERINGUES, AND ICES 335
rich raisins. When the mixture is nearly frozen, add these
fruits, turn the freezer a few minutes longer, then let it stand
until wanted. When ready to serve, have at hand a large flat
dish of shredded cocoanut. Take a spoonful of the cream at a
time, mould it into the shape of an egg, then roll it in the
shredded cocoanut. Spin some sugar, form into a nest, and
place your eggs in it. This cream may be made with plain
marrons or chestnuts in place of the candied fruits.
Vanilla Ice-creani
To one pint of whipped cream add one pint of milk and a
tablespoon of vanilla. Sweeten to taste, taking care not to put
in too much sugar. Freeze so that it will be perfectly smooth.
Walnut and Pig Ice-cream
Heat two and a half cups of milk, having reserved cold half
a cup to mix with the other ingredients. A part of this half
cup of cold milk use for dissolving a tablespoon of gelatine, and
with the rest mix two tablespoons of flour, an egg, and a cup of
sugar. Into the milk, heating in a double boiler, stir gradually
the flour, sugar, and egg. When it has come to a custard, add
the dissolved gelatine, a cup of rich cream, and a teaspoon of
vanilla. After you have frozen the mixture, add the meats of
half a pound of English walnuts (weighed in the shell) and a
quarter of a pound of figs. The walnuts and figs should be well
chopped. Beat them well in the custard and pack.
CHAPTER XIII
CAKES, FILLINGS, AND ICINGS
Icing for Cakes
One pound of sugar in half pint of hot water. Let it boil
ten minutes, or until it becomes a small ball. Remove at once,
pour it on to a well-oiled marble slab. When nearly cold, work
it with a wooden spoon until it becomes white, then work with
the hands until it is a creamy substance. Place in double boiler
and stir over the fire until it is dissolved. Color any shade
required. Pour over the cake while it is liquid and hot.
Clear Icing
Sift in a bowl half a pound of powdered sugar, add the whites
of two eggs. Stir a few minutes, then add the juice of half a
lemon. Stir until perfectly clear and smooth.
Royal Icing
Place the white of an egg in a bowl, add a little lemon juice
or any other flavoring, and a few drops of water. Stir in the
powdered sugar until it becomes of the right consistency to
spread upon warm cake. Pile in the centre of the cake and
with a wet knife smooth over the top and sides of the cake. It
will settle into a smooth and glossy surface.
How to use a Pastry Bag
Hold the top of the pastry bag in the right hand and with
the thumb and first finger of the left hand hold the funnel or
end. Press with the right hand and guide with the left. Hold
the funnel down close to the work.
CAKES, FILLINGS, AND ICINGS 337
Almond Cake
Take one pound of powdered sugar, one quart of flour, sifted
twice with two rounded teaspoonfuls of Cleveland's baking
powder, one-quarter of a pound of butter, seven eggs, whites
and yolks beaten separately, one large cupful of almonds,
blanched, pounded, and flavored with one teaspoonful of rose
water, and one-half teaspoonful of the essence of bitter
almonds. Cream the butter and sugar, beat the whipped
whites into the mixture, alternately adding the almond paste.
Beat for two minutes, then add the yolks, and lastly the sifted
flour and baking powder. Bake in a hot oven.
To blanch Almonds
Pour boiling water upon them, and slip off the skins. Set
them in the sun or an open oven to dry and crisp before they
are pounded in a mortar. Add the essence while they are
being pounded. Flavor the icing with rose water and a little
essence of bitter almonds.
Almond Cakes
Have at hand three ounces of flour, four ounces of granu-
hited sugar, one ounce of ground or finely pounded almonds,
the yolks of three eggs, the whipped whites of two and one
whole egg, half a small glass of good brandy, a little salt, two
ounces of chopped almonds mixed with one ounce of powdered
sugar, and quarter of the white of an egg. Cream the butter
with a wooden spoon, then gradually add the flour, sugar,
ground almonds, — a few bitter ones may be pounded with them
if desired, — brandy, eggs, and salt. Then lightly stir in the
whipped whites. Pour into a buttered pan. Have the dough
one inch thick. Bake until a light brown. When nearly done,
spread the prepared chopped almonds over the top, then put
the cake back again in the oven to finish baking. When done,
338 MRS. seely's cook book
the almonds should be a light fawn color. Carefully turn the
cake out of the pan. When cold, cut it in bands about one
inch or inch and a half wide. Cut the bands into diamond-
shaped cakes. Place some whipped cream in the centre of a
dish and arrange the cakes around it. Currants or sultana
raisins may be added to the above cake, and it may be flavored
with any essence or liqueur in place of the brandy.
Angel Cake
The whites of eleven eggs beaten to a stiff froth, one tum-
bler of white sugar, one tumbler of flour, sifted four times, the
last time sifted into the mixture, an even teaspoon of cream
of tartar, vanilla flavoring. To the whites add the sugar, next
the flavoring, then sift in the flour with the cream of tartar in
it. Do not butter the tin. Put in a round pan with a tin roll
in the centre and without paper in the bottom. Bake in a
moderate oven till a straw comes out clear, which will be in
twenty or twenty-five minutes. It should be very light-col-
ored and delicate.
Angel Cake
The whites of nine fresh eggs, one cup and a quarter of
sifted, granulated sugar, one cup of sifted flour, half teaspoon-
f ul of cream of tartar, a pinch of salt, added to the eggs before
beating. After sifting the flour four or five times, measure
and put aside one cup, then sift and measure one cup and a
quarter of granulated sugar. Beat the whites of the eggs
about half, add the cream of tartar, and beat until very stiff.
Stir in the sugar, then the flour very lightly. Put in a pan in
a moderate oven at once. The cake will bake in thirty -five to
fifty minutes.
Angel Cake
One and a half cups of granulated sugar, one cup of flour,
whites of eleven eggs, one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, one
ANGEL CAKE.
■"*1a.
Facing page 338.
BIRTHDAY CAKE.
CAKES, FILLINGS, AND ICINGS 839
teaspoonful of vanilla. Beat the whites of the eggs to a very
stiff froth, then gradually stir in the sugar, which has been
sifted, and add vanilla to eggs and sugar. Stir the cream of
tartar and flour together and sift three times and add to the
above mixture. Bake in moderate oven forty minutes.
Betsy
Cream one pound of butter and one pound and a quarter of
sugar. Add four eggs, two and a half pounds of flour, two
teaspoons of ginger, to your taste of caraway seeds, and half a
teaspoon of saleratus. Roll very thin, cut in long strips, and
bake a delicate brown.
Birthday Cake with Glaze
One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, five eggs, three cups
of flour, one heaping teaspoonful of baking powder, one cup
of milk, one teaspoonful of rose water. Sift the sugar, then
measure it. Wash the butter once in ice water until it is white
and creamy, dry it in a towel and add it to the sugar. Rub
both to a creamy substance and stir in the yolks of the eggs,
one by one. Beat all until light and foamy. Stir in one cup of
sifted flour, then add the milk, then another cup of sifted flour.
Mix well and stir in the last cup of flour which has the baking
powder sifted with it. When well mixed, add the well-beaten
whites and the rose water. Butter a large round cake tin and
line the bottom with paper. Pour in your mixture and bake
in moderate oven for one hour. When you remove it from the
oven, be sure it is thoroughly cooked. Test it by putting a fine
broom whisk through the centre of the cake. If the whisk
comes out dry, the cake is done. Stand the pan on a wire
sieve until the cake is partially cool. Make a glaze for the
top of the cake as follows : —
340 MBS, SEELT'S COOK BOOK
To make Glaze for Birthday Cake
In a saucepan put one cup of granulated sugar with four
tablespoonfuls of water. Boil ten minutes slowly, or until it
reaches a large ball. Have the white of one egg whipped very
stiff, and slowly pour the hot sugar into it, stirring constantly.
While hot, pour it slowly and thinly over the cake. Do not
use a knife, as it will make the surface rough. Let it dry,
which will be almost immediately. Make the following icing
for decorating : —
To make Icing for Birthday Cake
Half a pound of powdered sugar, whites of two eggs, juice
of one lemon. Beat the eggs for two minutes until stiff and
by degrees add the sifted sugar, stirring all the time with a wire
egg-beater. When all the sugar is used, beat well for five min-
utes with a Dover egg beater, so the icing will be thoroughly
smooth. Put a fancy tube in a pastry bag and fill the bag with
the icing. Make a paper funnel with a ver?/ small opening and
fill also with icing. With the paper funnel trace any design
you desire on the cake, commencing at the extreme edge.
Leave space in the centre for the initials or date. Follow up
the paper funnel with the pastry bag and with this fill out the
design. You must work rapidly, so the tracing of icing will
not harden before the decoration is filled in. Color the
remainder of the icing pink and put on the initials or date.
Have some pink and white candied rose leaves, dip them in
sugar syrup to make them stick, and put them round the lower
edge of your cake. Before you begin to decorate the cake,
place it on a round board, a little larger than the cake, and cov-
ered with a fancy edged paper.
How to write the Initials on Birthday Cake
Reserve about one-quarter of your icing, stir in a drop of
cochineal to color it pink. Make a three-cornered paper funnel.
Facing page SUO.
VAXILLA WAFERS.
CAKES, FILLINGS, AND ICINGS 341
put in the icing, fasten tightly. Take it in your hand as you
would a pen, and press with your thumb as you make the
letters. The size of the mark depends upon the size of the
opening in the paper funnel.
Black Cake for "Weddings
(An old colonial receipt)
Take one pound of butter, one pound of flour, one pound
of sugar, one pound of citron, seven pounds of raisins, ten eggs,
four nutmegs, four teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, four teaspoonfuls
of cloves, two wine-glasses of wine, and two wine-glasses of
brandy. Stir the butter and sugar to a cream, add the eggs,
the whites and yolks of which have been beaten separately,
then the brandy, wine, citron, and lastly the raisins. The fruit
should be rubbed in the flour before adding. Dissolve half a
teaspoonful of soda in a part of the wine. Put the spices in
the brandy over night. Bake four hours.
Black Fruit Cake
Cream three-fourths of a pound of butter with one pound
of brown sugar and add ten eggs, the yolks and whites of
which have been beaten separately. Afterward put in one
cup of molasses, a grated nutmeg, a teaspoonful of cinnamon,
half a teaspoon of cloves, half a teaspoon of allspice, and a
wine-glass of brandy, and mix thoroughly. Then add one
pound of flour, and the last thing two pounds of currants,
two pounds of raisins, half a pound of citron. The raisins
must be chopped and flour rubbed through the currants.
Bake in a moderate oven two and a half or three hours.
^' Bride's Cake
To one-half pound of butter, creamed, add one pound of
sugar, one pound of flour, and the whites of sixteen eggs
beaten stiff. In baking, take care not to jar the oven.
342 MRS. seelt's cook book
Bread Cake
Two cups of dough that has risen, two cups of white sugar,
one cup of butter creamed with the sugar, three eggs, one
even teaspoonful of baking soda, two tablespoonfuls of milk
or cream, half a pound of currants, one teaspoonful of nutmeg,
and one teaspoonful of cloves. Beat the yolks very light,
then add the creamed butter, sugar, spices, milk, soda, and
dough, then the beaten whites of the eggs, and lastly the
fruit. Beat hard for five minutes, then put in two buttered
pans and let it rise for twenty minutes. Bake half an hour or
more.
Cinnamon Sticks with Icing
Four ounces of almond j)aste, the white of one egg^ four
ounces of powdered sugar, one teaspoonful of ground cinna-
mon. Mix all together, place on a floured board, and roll
very thin. Cut the paste into long strips, about three fingers
wide and two inches long. Make an icing as follows : —
Icing for Cinnamon Sticks
Mix the whites of two eggs with half a pound of powdered
sugar, add half a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon and a few
drops of lemon juice. Stir five minutes, then cover the strips
of paste. Lay them on buttered tins and bake in moderate
oven.
Chocolate Loaf Cake
One large cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter, two eggs,
half a cup of sour milk, one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a
little hot water, one-third of a cake of chocolate melted, and
two cups of flour. Add vanilla to taste.
Chocolate Filling for Plain Layer Cake
Two squares of Baker's chocolate, one teacup of sugar, one
teacup of water. Use one-third of the water to dissolve three
CAKES, FILLINGS, AND ICINGS 343
teaspoonfuls of corn-starch. Boil the sugar and chocolate with
the remaining two-thirds of the cup of water for ten minutes.
Stir in the dissolved corn-starch and let all come to a boil.
Add a lump of butter the size of a hickory nut and a half tea-
spoonful of vanilla. Stir well and spread over the cake before
it cools.
Chocolate Mixture for Cake
Put together half a pint of milk, one egg, sugar to taste,
a cup of grated chocolate, and flavor with lemon extract.
Thicken by cooking in hot water, standing the vessel in
another, and stirring the mixture all the time until it is thick
enough to spread.
Cocoanut Cake
One pound of granulated sugar, half a pound of butter,
four eggs, one teacup of milk, one teaspoonful of soda, two
teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, and one pound of flour. Cream
the butter and sugar, and add the milk and other ingredients.
Beat all well together until creamy, then stir in one finely
grated cocoanut. Bake in moderate oven.
Coffee Cake
Cream two cups of brown sugar with one cup of butter,
add one cup of molasses, four well-beaten eggs, four cups of
flour, two teaspoonfuls of soda dissolved in a little hot water,
two cups of chopped raisins, ground spices to taste, and one
cup of strained coffee. Rub the raisins with a little flour to
prevent them from settling to the bottom of the pan. Bake in
moderate oven.
Coffee Cake
Cream one-half cup of butter with one-half cup of sugar.
Add one cup of milk, one well-beaten egg, a pinch of salt
344 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
sifted with two teaspoonfuls of baking powder and two cups of
flour. Mix all thoroughly and then stir in one-half cup of
currants which have been mixed with a little flour, just enough
to keep them from sinking to the bottom of the cake. Pour
into a well-buttered pan, sprinkle the top with ground cinna-
mon, powdered sugar, and small pieces of butter. Bake in
moderate oven three-quarters of an hour.
Westphalian Coffee or Butter Cake
Take three pounds of flour, one pound of butter, four tea-
cups of milk, three eggs, three-quarters of a pound of raisins,
one-quarter of a pound of sugar, three ounces of yeast, as
much citron as you wish (or it may be omitted), and eight or
ten cardamom seeds well pulverized. The sugar, butter, milk,
and flour should be stirred thoroughly together. The eggs
may be omitted if wished. The yeast should be added before
the fruit.
It will probably take three or four hours to rise. When
ready for baking, pour over the cake one-quarter of the butter,
then a quarter of a pound of sugar, two ounces of sweet
almonds chopped fine, and strew whatever spice is pleasing —
cinnamon is commonly used.
The cake is baked in a round (snake) form, on a large tin,
or in a pan with the centre cut out, to let the heat cook it thor-
oughly. .
New England Caraway Cakes
Take one pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of sugar,
half a pound of butter, a glass of rose water, four eggs, half a
teacup of caraway seeds. Rub the materials well together
and beat up. Drop the cakes from a spoon on tin sheets and
bake them brown in a rather slow oven. Twenty minutes or
half an hour is enough to bake them.
CAKES, FILLINGS, AND ICINGS 345
Garfield Cookies
One cup of butter, one cup of sugar, one-third of a cup of
sour milk, two eggs, one teaspoonful of soda, one-half of a nut-
meg grated, flour enough to roll the cookies soft and thin.
Cream the butter and sugar, add the milk, then the eggs,
having first beaten in the soda, dissolved in a little water, the
grated nutmeg, and lastly the flour. Turn the mixture on a
board lightly sprinkled with flour, roll until very thin, and
cut the desired shape and size. Place in slightly greased pan
and bake in quick oven.
Inauguration Cookies
Stir to a cream three-quarters of a pound of white pow-
dered sugar and half a pound of butter. Add six eggs, stir-
ring them in gently, one at a time. Continue the gentle
stirring till a pound of flour, a grated nutmeg, four ounces of
chopped orange peel, and a glass of orange juice are well
mixed in. Have half a pound of blanched almonds chopped
rather fine. Drop the dough from a tablespoon upon buttered
paper. Sprinkle the chopped almonds upon the little rounds
and bake a delicate brown. When the cookies are cold, slip
them from the paper, put together with a fruit jam or icing,
and twist them in delicate lace papers.
Molasses Cookies
Boil one cup of molasses, mix it with two eggs, one-half a
teaspoonful of baking soda dissolved in a little boiling water, —
use the cup the molasses was in, — and then stir in one pound
of sifted fiour. Roll very thin, cut the desired size and shape,
and bake in a quick oven.
Sugar Cookies
Cream three cup^'^'of sugar with two cups of butter, add
four eggs, one cup of milk, and a pinch of salt. Mix one-half
346 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
teaspoonful of baking powder with seven cups of flour and stir
in the mixture. Roll out thin, cut the desired shape and size.
Put them on baking sheets and bake in a quick oven. Remove
from the oven and sprinkle with sugar while they are warm.
If desired, a little grated nutmeg may be added to the above
receipt.
Sugar Cookies
Two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, one ^gg^ one-half
teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little water, one cup of sweet
milk, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, vanilla to taste, and
enough flour to make a thin dough. Do not mix it hard. Roll
very thin, cut the desired shape, and bake in quick oven.
Sugar Cookies
One cup butter and lard (more of butter than lard), two
cups of sugar, three teaspoons baking powder, a little salt, nut-
meg and extract of lemon, four cups of flour, and as much
more to roll out as will make them delicate. Bake quickly in a
hot oven a very light brown. Sift powdered sugar over them
while hot.
Crullers
Two and a half cups of sugar, a piece of butter the size of a
walnut, three eggs, one cup of milk, one small teaspoonful of
soda, two small teaspoons of cream of tartar, a little salt, one
nutmeg, lemon extract, enough flour to roll broad and flat. Cut
the roll in strips and twist the pieces. Bake in hot fat, brown
lightly, and while hot sift over them powdered sugar. In fry-
ing, lay each cruller when done separately in a colander or on a
sieve.
Crullers
Cream half a cup of butter ; gradually stir in one cup of
granulated sugar, then the beaten yolks of three eggs, the
LEMOX CAKES.
^'^PA^
i ,-- ,-V.v ^,-^
Facing page 3U6.
CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS.
CAKES, FILLINGS, AND ICINGS 347
grated yellow rind of a lemon, and a little grated nutmeg.
Beat the whites of three eggs very stiff and add to the mix-
ture, and lastly beat in three cups of flour, a little at a time.
Place on a floured moulding board, roll out to a thickness of
half an inch. Cut with biscuit cutter, also cut a round hole in
the centre. Fry in deep boiling fat until a good color. Drain
on brown paper and dredge with powdered sugar.
Cream Layer Cake with Filling
Seven tablespoonfuls of melted butter, one cup of granu-
lated sugar, four eggs, half a cup of milk, one cup of flour, one
cup of corn-starch, one teaspoonf ul of cream of tartar, and half a
teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little boiling water. Mix
thoroughly the butter, sugar, egg, and milk. Then mix the
corn-starch and cream of tartar with flour. Sift all into the
mixture and lastly stir in the baking soda. Pour into thin
pans, any shape desired, and bake in a moderate oven. Pour
the cream filling given below between the first and second
layers. Decorate the top layer with icing, or any way you wish.
Cream Filling
One large coffee cup of milk, yolks of two eggs and white
of one egg, one tablespoonf ul of powdered sugar, one teaspoon-
ful of corn starch blended in a little milk, vanilla, or any flavor-
ing extract to taste.
Cup Cake
One cup of butter, two cups of granulated sugar, three cups
of flour, four eggs, and one cup of milk. Flavor to taste.
Delicate Cake
Cream one cup of butter and two cups of granulated sugar,
and stir in one cup of sweet milk and the whites of six eggs
beaten to a stiff froth. Sift three cups of flour and two table-
348 MBS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
spoonfuls of baking powder together. Stir into the mixture.
Pour into two long tins, well buttered, and bake in a moderate
oven.
Doughnuts
Warm two quarts of milk and stir in enough sifted flour to
make a soft batter, add half of a compressed yeast-cake dis-
solved in half a cup of water. Set in a warm place where the
batter will rise. When light, mix with one-quarter of a tea-
spoonful of soda dissolved in a little water, a scant half cup of
lard, one cup and a half of granulated sugar, two eggs, a little
grated nutmeg, ground cinnamon, and salt. Then add enough
sifted flour so the mixture can be rolled and handled. Cut the
desired shape and let them stand awhile to rise. Drop them
in hot lard and fry until a nice brown. Sprinkle with sifted
sugar.
Pig Cake
Cream one cup of butter and two cups of brown sugar.
Mix thoroughly, and add four beaten eggs, one teaspoonful of
ground cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful of ground cloves, one
cup of water, and three cups of flour sifted with two teaspoon-
fuls of baking powder. Cut one-half pound of figs and two
cupfuls of raisins in small pieces, dredge them with one-
quarter of a cup of flour and add to the mixture. Pour into a
well-buttered pan and bake in a moderate oven for two hours.
Genoese Cakes
Have at hand a quarter of a pound of flour, a quarter of a
pound of granulated sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, two
eggs, one half of a small glass of good brandy, and a little salt.
Mix the flour, eggs, sugar, brandy, and salt together with a
wooden spoon. Soften the butter a little at the side of the
range and add it to the other ingredients. When it is
thoroughly mixed, pour it into a well-buttered pan. Do not
LOG CABIX.
smaS^
Facing page 3U8.
LADY S FINGERS.
CAKES, FILLINGS, AND ICINGS 349
have it more than quarter of an inch thick. Bake in a moder-
ately heated oven. When the cake is done, turn it out on a
sheet of paper and cut it in circular, oblong, leaf, diamond, or
any shape the taste may suggest. These cakes may be deco-
rated with meringue or icing. When cut in the shape of leaves,
rings, etc., place the meringue in a cornucopia and decorate
them. Then sift some powdered sugar over them and dry them
at the entrance of the oven. Then finish decorating them by
placing on them some strips or dots of any bright preserve.
Darky Fingers
Make the following coffee-cake receipt, bake in lady's finger
pans, and put together with icing made by stirring powdered
sugar with orange juice and beating thoroughly: —
One cup of sugar, one cup of cold coffee, one cup of mo-
lasses, one scant cup of butter, one cup of raisins, one table-
spoon of cloves, one tablespoon of cinnamon, three teaspoons of
baking powder, four cups of flour. Mix the butter and sugar
together, add the soda, the cup of coffee and spice, and lastly
the raisins, dredging with a little flour to prevent settling.
Lady's Fingers
Five eggs, four ounces of flour, four ounces of powdered
sugar. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together, then
gradually add the flour, and last of all the stiflly beaten whites
of the eggs. Put through a pastry bag on a brown paper and
baking sheet and bake in moderate oven.
Lady's Fingers
Beat separately the yolks and whites of one pound of eggs
and add them to one pound of sugar and one pound of butter,
having creamed separately the sugar and butter. Add a
350 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
wine-glass of brandy and a teaspoon of mace and then, grad-
ually, one pound of flour. This receipt makes forty-eight lady's
fingers.
Lady May Fingers
One pound of flour, one pound of butter, one pound of sugar,
one pound of eggs, two teaspoons of mace, one wine-glass of
brandy. Bake in lady's finger pans, and while warm stick
together with the white of an egg.
Gold-leaf Cake
Yolks of eight eggs, one cup of granulated sugar, a scant half
cup of butter, half cup of sweet milk, a cup and a half of flour,
two teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Cream the butter and
sugar thoroughly, beat the yolks to a stiff froth, and stir
thoroughly. Mix in the milk, then the flour, and stir hard.
Bake in tube pan in moderate oven.
See also under Silver Cake.
Ginger Snaps
Cream one-half pound of butter with one and a half cups of
sugar, add three eggs and one-half teaspoonful of baking soda
dissolved in a little boiling water. Season to taste with ground
ginger and stir in one pound of flour. Roll very thin, cut the
desired size and shape, and bake in a quick oven.
Soft Gingerbread
A half cup of brown sugar, half cup of molasses, one heaping
tablespoon of lard, one heaping tablespoon of butter, two eggs,
one even teaspoon of soda, large tablespoon of vinegar, two
meagre cups of flour, a little salt, ginger and cloves to taste,
half a cup of hot water. Cream the butter and sugar together ;
add the molasses, hot water, soda, and vinegar, and then the
rest of ingredients.
FANCY CAKE8.
Facing page 350.
CURRANT JELLY CAKE.
(See [). 352.)
CAKES, FILLINGS, AND ICINGS 351
Gingerbread Sponge
Half a cup of butter, half a cup of sugar, half a cup of milk,
one cup of molasses, two eggs, one tablespoonful of ginger, two
cups of flour, one teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda. Cream
the butter and sugar, add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs,
beat well, then add the ginger and molasses, having dissolved
the soda in a little warm water, and mixed with the molasses.
Add one cup of flour, half a cup of milk, and then the rest of
the flour. Butter your cake pan, place paper on the bottom.
Pour in the batter and bake in a moderate oven for twenty
minutes. It is best to have shallow pans.
Imperial Cake
Take one pound of flour, one pound of sugar, one pound of
butter, one pound of raisins, one pound of almonds blanched
and split, three-fourths of a pound of citron, ten eggs, one wine-
glass of brandy, and one wine-glass of rose water. Mace to taste
may be used. The lightness of this cake depends wholly upon
the stirring, — there is no soda or baking powder, — and there
should be no lack of patient beating. The sugar and butter are
creamed together, the whites and yolks of the eggs are beaten
stiff separately, and the other ingredients added in the usual
order.
Jam Cake
Mix one cup of sugar and three-fourths of a cup of butter
to a cream, add three eggs beaten separately, then one cup of
fruit jam, and two cups of flour. Spice should be added to
taste, and lastly one teaspoon of soda dissolved in three tea-
spoons of sour milk. Bake in layers and put together with
icing.
Kids
Stir together a cup and a half of dark brown sugar and half
a cup of butter. Add three eggs well beaten, one cup of raisins
352 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
seeded and chopped, half a nutmeg, a teaspoon of cinnamon, a
teaspoon of soda dissolved in a little boiling water, and finally
flour enough to roll in a soft blanket. Cut in strips, long and
thin, or any form you please, and bake in buttered tins.
Lady Cake
Cream well together one pound of sugar and half a pound
of butter. Add the whites of sixteen eggs beaten stiff, three-
quarters of a pound of flour, two ounces of bitter almonds,
blanched and pounded with rose water to a fine paste. Bake in
shallow tins in a moderate oven.
Layer Cake or Small Cakes
One and a half cups sugar, three eggs, one heaping iron
spoon of butter, two-thirds of a cup of sweet milk, three even
teaspoons of baking powder, a little salt, two and a half cups
of flour (scant). Just before baking, add a pinch of soda.
Lemon flavoring.
Layer Cake
Three eggs, one cup of washed butter, one cup of sugar, one
scant cup of milk, two cups of flour. Beat the butter to a
cream, add the sugar and flour and milk a little at a time, and
also the yolks of the eggs. Beat fifteen minutes, add the
grated peel of two lemons or any other flavoring. Whip the
whites of the eggs and add at the last also two scant teaspoon-
fuls of Royal baking powder. Bake in cake tins lined with
buttered paper. Mix half a pint of apricot jam with a little
maraschino or Sherry and rub well till smooth. Lay the cakes
together before quite cold with the mixture between. Ice over
with royal or water icing and decorate.
CAKES, FILLINGS, AND ICINGS 353
Layer Cake
Cream one pound of butter with one pound and a half of
powdered sugar. Add the yolks of three eggs and stir for half
an hour, then add one-quarter of a pound of grated almonds,
— remove the skins before grating, — two scant cups of flour,
and the well-beaten whites of two eggs. Bake in four buttered
tins, round or square, and spread each layer with any filling
that is desired.
Chicago Loaf
Cream one pound of sugar and half a pound of butter. Add
eight eggs beaten stiff, one pound of flour, one pound of raisins,
a glass of wine, and the grated rind and half the juice of a fine
lemon.
Macaroons
Pour boiling water over half a pound of almonds, remove
the skins, and plunge them into cold water. Drain thoroughly
and put in the oven. When dry, pound them in a mortar until
they become a paste, gradually adding the white of one egg.
Then add one pound and a half of powdered sugar. Again
pound thoroughly, gradually adding the whites of two eggs.
Spread a piece of white paper on a tin sheet, form your mixture
in little rounds, a little smaller than a twenty-five cent piece.
Place them on the paper about one inch and a half apart. Bake
them in a slow oven for about twelve minutes, at the end of
that time they should be well colored. Remove from the oven.
When they become cold, turn the papers over and moisten with
a little water, the macaroons can then be easily removed.
Maple Sugar Cake with Filling
Cream one cup of granulated sugar with a lump of butter
the size of an egg, stir in the yolks of two eggs and the white
of one, and then add two small cups of flour with two teaspoon-
354 MRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
fuls of baking powder sifted in it. Bake in round layers.
Spread the following filling between each layer : —
Filling for Maple Sugar Cake
Boil one cup of maple syrup until it hairs off the spoon.
Then add the well-beaten white of one egg. Stir until smooth.
Maple Sugar Cookies
Take one cup of butter, one cup of sour milk, three cups
of shaved maple sugar, two eggs, and one teaspoonful of soda.
Make the dough stiff enough with flour to drop off a spoon.
Roll out, and bake in quick oven.
Green Mountain Boys
Two pounds of flour, half a pound of butter, half a pound
of brown sugar, a pound and a half of maple syrup, and a tea-
spoonful of salt. These cakes should be dropped on greased
paper and baked. The thickness of the dough depends upon
the thickness of the syrup ; if it is thin, add flour ; if too thick,
add maple syrup till of the right consistency.
Soft Molasses Cake
Three cups of molasses, one cup of butter, two cups of boil-
ing water, one teaspoonful of baking soda dissolved in a little
water, three teaspoonfuls of ground ginger, and five cups of
sifted flour. Mix thoroughly, and bake in a hot oven.
Oatmeal Wafers
Cream one cup of sugar with one cup of butter and lard
mixed, add one egg, one cup of boiling water, one teaspoonful
of soda dissolved in a little water, a pinch of salt, three cups
CAKES, FILLINGS, AND ICINGS 355
of oatmeal, and enough flour to make a soft dough. I<et the
dough get cold, then roll very thin and bake in a hot oven.
Plum Cake
Six eggs, half a pound of butter, half a pound of powdered
sugar, twelve ounces of flour, one wine-glass of cognac, a quar-
ter of an ounce of ground allspice, the finely chopped rind of a
lemon, two pounds of mixed fruits, such as sultana raisins, cur-
rants, sliced citron, and orange peel. Stir the butter to a cream
in a warm earthen bowl, using a wooden spoon. Add the
sugar and stir for ten minutes, and then, one by one, stir in the
six egg yolks. Stir again for five minutes and then add half
of the flour. When this is mixed, put in the fruits and brandy
and mix again. Beat the egg whites to a hard froth, add to the
mixture, and stir all thoroughly with the rest of the flour and
a little salt. Line a buttered mould with a well-buttered paper,
pour in the mixture, and cook in a moderate oven for one hour
and a half. Cool, peel off the paper, and ornament with white
sugar icing.
Pound Cake
One pound of sifted flour, one pound of granulated sugar,
one pound of eggs, a scant pound of butter, a tablespoonful of
brandy, and one-half teaspoonful of mace. Cream the sugar and
butter and beat the yolks and whites of the eggs separately.
Just before mixing, whip the brandy and spice into the sugar
and butter. Then stir in the yolks and beat hard for two min-
utes. Add the whites of the eggs and flour alternately, whip-
ping with long side strokes lightly and quickly. The heavy
work is done before these go in. Do not stir the batter after
these are added. A pound-cake batter should be stiff er than
that of a cup or a sponge cake. Bake in small greased tins, or
in square, flat pans, in a steady oven. Test the oven with a bit
of letter paper before putting the cake into it. If in five min-
utes the paper is a light yellow, the oven is all right.
356 MBS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Princess Cakes
First make a paste as follows : Place half a pound of flour
on a board, make a hollow in the centre, and put in it half a tea-
spoonful of salt with a little water to melt it, and add the yolks
of four eggs. Work the whole well together, at first rubbing
the ingredients between the hands. Finish working the paste
by pushing it from you with the palms of the hands. Sprinkle
with a few drops of water and knead it into a ball. This paste
must be very stiff. Roll it out very thin, cut into bands, and
shred them very fine. Spread these shreds on a sieve to dry for
a short time, and then put them into a saucepan with half a pint
of boiling cream, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, three
ounces of granulated sugar, and half a small glass of brandy.
Cover the pan with a lid and boil the contents very slowly un-
til the shredded paste has absorbed the liquids. Remove from
the fire and add the yolks of three eggs. Stir the whole well
together and then put the preparation in two buttered tins.
Have it about one-eighth of an inch thick. Bake in a moderate
oven until a deep yellow. Spread one layer with jam or any
desired filling, cover with the other layer, and then cut them
with a tin cutter in small fancy shapes.
Silver and Gold Cake together
One pound of granulated sugar, half a pound of butter,
three-quarters of a pound of flour, the whites of ten eggs, one
teaspoonful of bitter almond or lemon flavor. Put the butter
in a bowl and work it with a wire whisk until creamy. Add
the sugar and work well for five minutes. When all is light
and foamy, add the well-beaten whites and mix well. Sift
your flour twice, stir it into the mixture, add flavoring, mix
well, and stir in two drops of rose water.
In another bowl put one pound of granulated sugar and
half a pound of butter. With a wire whisk beat to a cream.
CAKES, FILLINGS, AND ICINGS 357
Beat the yolks of ten eggs very light, and to them add the
juice of two lemons and the grated rind of one orange. Beat
all thoroughly and stir with the butter and sugar. Sift twice
three-quarters of a pound of flour with one scant teaspoonf ul of
dry baking soda, add to the mixture, and beat all till very
light. Butter a square or a round tin, dredge it with flour,
put your mixtures in, a spoonful at a time, first the white and
then the yellow, and so on, till your cake pan is full. Bake in
a moderate oven forty minutes. If your cake gets too brown
on top, put a piece of heavy white paper over it. Ice with
clear white icing. Add a little orange paste to some of the
icing, and ornament the border of the cake with it. Put orange
leaves in the centre. These leaves can be made by taking white
rose leaves, covering the surface of each with orange icing, and
laying them in the crystallized sugar, according to the direc-
tions in birthday cake.
Spice Cake
Cream one cup of butter with three cups of brown sugar,
add one cup of milk, six eggs, one teaspoon of soda dissolved
in boiling water, one-quarter of a pound of almonds chopped
fine, half a teaspoon of cloves, one teaspoon of cinnamon, half a
teaspoon of allspice, one teaspoon of nutmeg. All the spices
must be ground. Grate the rind of one orange into the mix-
ture and add two cups of floiir. INIix thoroughly and then pour
into a buttered cake pan and bake in a moderate oven for one
hour and a half, or until thoroughly baked.
Sponge Cake
Ten eggs, three cups of granulated sugar, three cups of
flour, one teaspoon of cream of tartar. Sift, measure, and set
aside the flour and sugar. Beat the yolks of the eggs thor-
oughly ; then, after washing the beater, beat the whites about
half, add cream of tartar, and beat until very stiff. Stir in the
358 MBS. seely's cook book
sugar lightly, then the beaten yolks thoroughly, then add the
flour. Put into a tube pan and into a moderate oven at once.
Sponge Cake
Beat the yolks of six eggs, stir in one cup of sugar, one
spoonful of water, and the juice of one lemon. Beat the whites
of the six eggs to a meringue, mix with the above, and lastly
stir in one cup of sifted flour. Pour into buttered pan and
bake in quick oven.
Sponge Cake
Ten eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately, three-
quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, six ounces of flour, and
half a lemon. Mix the sugar and egg yolks, then the lemon
juice ; add the flour and the whites alternately to the sugar
and yolks. See that the whites are well beaten. Pour into a
buttered pan and bake forty minutes in a moderate oven.
Sponge Cake
One pound of powdered sugar, half a pound of flour, ten
eggs, the grated rind of one lemon, and the juice of half a
lemon. Beat the yolks and sugar to a stiff froth in which the
juice of the lemon is mixed. Beat the whites of the eggs very
stiff, add them to the mixture, and then gradually add the
sifted flour. Bake in moderate oven for forty minutes.
Hot Water Sponge Cake
Two teacups of sugar, six eggs, half a cup of boiling water,
the grated rind of half a lemon, one teaspoon of lemon juice.
Beat the sugar and the yolks of the eggs to a froth and the
whites to a stiff froth. Add the lemon to the yolks and sugar,
then add the boiling water, then the whites, and lastly the flour.
Mix quickly and bake half an hour in a moderate oven.
CAKES, FILLINGS, AND ICINGS 359
Sunshine Cake
The whites of seven small eggs and the yolks of five, one cup
of granulated sugar, two-thirds of a cup of flour, one-third of a
teaspoon of cream of tartar, and a pinch of salt. Sift, measure,
and set aside the flour and sugar as for angel cake. Beat the
yolks of the eggs thoroughly, then after washing the beater,
beat the whites about half, add the cream of tartar, and beat till
very stiff. Stir in the sugar lightly, then the beaten yolks
thoroughly, then add the flour. Put in a tube pan and in the
oven at once. Bake thirty-five to fifty minutes.
White Cake
One cup of milk, one cup of butter, two cups of sugar, three
cups of flour, the whites of eight eggs, two teaspoons of baking
powder, a little salt, bitter almond flavoring. When this receipt
is used for layer cake, between the layers and on top of the cake
use thin icing (not the boiled icing) with fresh cocoanut on
the icing.
CHAPTER XIV
BREADS, PASTES, AND PIES
Bread
First of all sift your flour, and be sure you do not leave it
in a damp place. Let it stand for an hour before you begin to
make your bread. Put one yeast-cake into one cup of tepid
water and let it stand in a warm place — not too hot, and in
about fifteen minutes, if your yeast is good, it will come to the
surface. At this point add a tablespoon of flour, mix well, and
let it stand until you are ready to use it. Boil your milk and
let it get cool, not chilled. Have your flour sifted in a pan —
not too much, so that you can work it well. Always measure
your milk. To one yeast-cake you can safely add two quarts,
or three if the yeast is good and fresh. To the flour add
one tablespoon of butter, one-half tablespoon of lard, one table-
spoon of sugar, and one tablespoon of salt. Mix well with the
flour. Make a hole in the centre and add the milk, next add
the yeast which you have in the cup to the milk. Mix all well
together in the bread-pan, adding flour so that you can handle
it easily. Take it out, lay it on a board, and work well until it
does not stick to the hands or board, and feels like velvet in
your hands. When your bread is thoroughly mixed, there will
appear little bubbles in the dough. Put it back into the pan
and let it rise over night. In the morning form it into loaves,
without using any flour or kneading it. Put it into pans and
let it rise well. Bake in a moderate oven one hour and a half.
The longer the bread bakes, the sweeter and more wholesome
it is. A good baker can always tell when bread is well baked
BOSTON BROWX BREAD.
(See p. 363.)
Facing page SCO.
HOME-MADE, FRENCH, AND GRAHAM BREAD.
BREADS, PASTES, AND PIES 361
by the sweet odor which comes from the bread on opening the
oven door ; or if, by taking it in your hand and putting it to
your ear, you do not detect any hissing, then your bread is
thoroughly baked. The secret of making good bread is, first,
have fresh yeast ; second, have your milk of an even tempera-
ture, neither too hot nor too cold ; third, kneading it well ;
fourth, keeping it in a warm place, and not forcing it to rise ;
fifth, having your oven moderate, so that it bakes slowly and
thoroughly all the way through.
French Rolls
One pint of milk, one yeast-cake, whites of two eggs, one
tablespoon of butter, one tablespoon of sugar, one tablespoon of
salt, two pounds of flour, or about that quantity. Put your
yeast-cake in one cup of tepid water and let it stand one hour.
This is a good way to test yeast ; when it rises to the top, it is
good. At this j)oint add one heaping tablespoon of flour and
let it stand until it is required. Scald the milk and let it get
cold, but not chilled. Sift the flour into a bowl, pour the milk
in the centre, then add salt, sugar, and butter. It is a good
plan to add the butter to the milk when it is nearly cold. Next
add the whites of the eggs, which must be whipped very light.
Mix well without adding any extra flour, and lastly add the
yeast. Mix all together with a wire whisk until it is so that
you can work it with your hands. Then take it out of the bowl
and work well on a board until it will not stick to the hands or
board. Put back into the pan and let it rise. When light, take
out small pieces, roll with the hands on the board, and put them
in pans close together, so they will keep their shape, and let
them rise until they are very light ; brush them with egg and
bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Before you take
them out, brush off with melted butter, and give them a few
minutes more in the oven. S^ryQ hot. Small rolls may be tied
362 MES. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
with ribbon before going to the table, or they may be served in
log-cabin style.
Parker House Rolls
One quart and a half of flour, one tablespoon of lard, three
gills of boiled milk cooled, one-half cup of granulated sugar,
and three-quarters of a cake of yeast dissolved in quarter of a
cup of water. Make a hole in the centre of the flour and put
in the other ingredients. Mix as if making sponge and let it
rise over night, keeping it moderately warm. In the morning
knead thoroughly and leave it to rise till noon, then cut with
a biscuit cutter. Spread one-half of each biscuit with butter,
and fold over. Place in a pan and leave to rise until nearly
time to serve. Bake in hot oven for twenty minutes.
Rolls
Half a yeast-cake, one pint of milk, one quart of flour, one
tablespoon of lard. Mix thoroughly and set in a moderately
warm place until very light. Then knead the dough a little,
make it into rolls, and place in pans. When they have risen,
bake in quick oven.
Potato Yeast
One quart of potatoes sliced, two quarts and a half of warm
water, a small bag of hops tied in a cloth. Boil slowly until the
potatoes are soft. Place in a colander three heaping iron table-
spoons of flour and over it pour the potatoes and water boiling
hot. Mash this through the colander, strain, and mash again
through the colander to avoid lumps. Pour this into a pan or
crock and add to it one cup of white sugar, one iron tablespoon
of salt, and one teaspoon of ginger. Let this cool until just
tepid and add one cake of Fleischman's yeast dissolved. Set
to rise in a warm place. When very light, bottle.
CRESCENTS.
Facing page 362.
FRENCH ROLLS.
BREADS, PASTES, AND PIES . 363
Oneida Rye and Indian Bread
Make a sponge over night with a yeast-cake soaked in a cup
and a half of water and mixed with wheat flour. Next morn-
ing scald a quart of water and a pint of molasses together and
in it stir four and a half pints of corn meal. When this is cool,
add it to the sponge and also add a heaped pint of rye meal,
one pint of bread crumbs well soaked and mashed, and an even
teaspoon of soda. Mix all thoroughly and set to rise. When
the dough is light, separate it in two loaves and put in tins to
rise a little more. Bake in a moderate oven for three hours.
Boston Brown Bread
One cup of white flour, one cup of yellow Indian meal, one
cup of Graham flour, two cups of milk, one and one-third cups
of molasses, one ^^^, one teaspoon of soda, and a pinch of salt.
Mix the white, Graham flour, and Indian meal, and sift into a
large bowl. Then stir in the other ingredients, adding the soda
last. Pour into a steamer and boil for three hours. Be sure
the lid of the steamer is tied tightly so no water can get to the
bread.
Raised Muffins
Mix one-half pint of water with one-half pint of milk. Dis-
solve one-half cake of compressed yeast, stir with the milk and
water, and add a little salt, one teaspoon of granulated sugar,
and flour enough to make a stiff batter. Mix at night. The
next morning arrange muffin rings on a griddle which is par-
tially warmed. Fill each ring half full with the batter and
let it rise till even with the top of the ring. Now place the
griddle over a good fire and bake the muffins until they are a
light brown. Turn with pancake turner.
Laplanders
Beat three eggs, add three cups of flour, three cups of sweet
milk, one tablespoon of melted butter, and a little salt. Beat
364 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
well together and pour into buttered moulds. Bake in a hot
oven.
English Muffins
One pint of flour, half a teaspoon of sugar, half a teaspoon
of salt, one teaspoon of baking powder, half a pint of milk,
and two eggs. Sift the flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder
together. Mix the yolks of the eggs with the milk and gradu-
ally stir into the flour. Last of all, add the whites beaten stiff.
Bake on a griddle in muffin rings.
French Popovers
Two cups of milk, one cup of flour, four eggs, and a pinch
of salt. Put the flour into a bowl, add one cup of milk, and
then the eggs, one after the other. Do not beat the eggs.
When all the eggs are worked in, add the other cup of milk.
Stir with a wire whisk. Little mixing is required. Put pop-
over pans on top of the range, having rubbed a small piece of
butter in each one. Fill the pans three-quarters full and bake
in a moderate oven thirty minutes.
Simple Popovers
Sift two cups of flour with half a teaspoon of salt. Add
gradually two cups of milk and mix very smooth. Then add
two eggs unbeaten and, after mixing thoroughly, a teaspoon of
melted butter. Beat all well together and with the batter fill
half full stoneware popover cups which have been well but-
tered with cold butter. Have a good hot oven and set the
cups in it. There will come out a rich brown puff which may
be eaten with cream and sugar, with a golden syrup, or with
butter and berries.
Maryland Biscuit
Rub a teaspoon of salt and two tablespoons of lard into two
quarts of flour and mix in a couple of cups of cold water till
f'^'i^^^
> . .^5 ^_
CREAM BISCUITS.
Facing page 36h.
PAPER CASES FOR CREAM BISCUITS, ETC.
.V. It
BREADS, PASTES, AND PIES 365
you have a stiff dough. Knead until thoroughly mixed and
then beat with your rolling pin. Turn the dough over and
over until it blisters and puffs out. It is now ready for form-
ing into biscuits, which you do by pulling off a small piece,
forming in any shape you choose, pricking with a fork, and
baking in a quick oven fifteen or twenty minutes.
Virginia "Wafers
One quart of flour, a piece of butter the size of an egg, the
yolks of two eggs, and milk enough so that you can roll the
dough very thin. Beat the dough with a rolling pin half an hour
or more, until it blisters, and then roll it as thin as paper. Cut
out the biscuit, prick them with a fork, and bake two or three
minutes.
Philadelphia Muffins
Boil and mash four potatoes, rub them into a quart of flour,
add one tablespoon of butter, a little salt, half a small teacup
of yeast, four eggs, and half a teaspoon of fine sugar. Mix at
night and drop the dough from a spoon into muffin rings or
pans aL 3t to rise till morning. Bake half an hour.
Egg Biscuit
Take two pounds of flour, two eggs, two ounces of butter,
one pint of milk, and a little salt. Raise over night with yeast,
and mould in the morning for breakfast.
Pompton Puffs
Three cups of flour, one tablespoon of butter, half a teaspoon
of salt, two cups of milk, four eggs, — yolks and whites beaten
separately, — one teaspoon of baking powder. Sift the flour
into a bowl and add the salt and baking powder. Stir the
beaten yolks with the milk thoroughly and then add the flour.
366
Melt the butter and add to the mixture and whip thoroughly.
Now stir in the well-beaten whites and whip together \yith a
Dover egg-beater. Bake in gem pans from fifteen to twenty
minutes.
Dutch Puffet
Mix one quart of milk, three eggs, one cup of sugar, one
cup of butter, half a cup of yeast, and flour enough to make a
spoon stand in it. Let the mixture rise several hours. Bake
in long tins three-quarters of an hour.
Rusk
Dissolve four ounces of butter in one pint of warm milk,
add two pounds of flour, eight ounces of sugar mixed in the
flour, a little salt, and a teacup of yeast. Set the sponge at
night and knead it into a light dough in the morning. Let it
rise well. Roll the dough half an inch thick, cut out the rusks,
and let them rise again. Beat an egg and brush over the top
with a feather and bake in a hot oven.
Velvet Cakes
Mix two teaspoons of cream of tartar in one quart of flour
and one teaspoon of soda in one pint of milk. Add one cup of
sugar and one-third of a cup of butter. Mix thoroughly and
bake in hot earthen cups half an hour.
Corn Bread
One cup of Indian meal, one cup of flour, one cup of milk,
one teaspoon of baking powder, two eggs, one tablespoon of
butter, one tablespoon of sugar. Sift the meal and flour into
a bowl, then add the salt, sugar, and baking powder. Beat the
yolks of the eggs, add them to the milk, and mix them with the
BREADS, PASTES, AND PIES 367
flour, etc. Stir in the melted butter, then the well-beaten
whites of eggs, and beat all thoroughly. Butter your pans,
dust off with flour, fill them two-thirds full, and bake from
fifteen to twenty minutes. The batter can be put in shallow
pans, and when nearly baked, cut into squares. Put back into
the oven till a nice brown. When about to serve, break into
squares.
Corn Bread
Half a pint of yellow Indian meal, half a pint of flour, half
a cup of granulated sugar, two eggs, butter the size of a wal-
nut, two teaspoons of baking powder sifted with the flour, and
a little salt. Mix with enough milk to make the batter quite
thin. Bake in a buttered pan in a hot oven. Cut in squares
before removing it from the pan.
Corn Bread
Take one cup of flour, one cup of sour milk, half a cup of
meal, one-third of a cup of molasses, two tablespoons of melted
butter, one teaspoon of salt, half a teaspoon of soda, the yolks
of two eggs, and the white of one. Mix well and bake in a
buttered pan in a hot oven.
Nantucket Corn Bread
Scald one pint of meal in one quart of sweet milk. Add
butter the size of an egg, one teaspoon of salt, one tablespoon
of sugar, and four eggs well beaten. Mix well and bake in an
oven not too hot.
St. Louis Corn Bread
Mix one pint of corn meal, one heaping teaspoon of sugar,
one heaping teaspoon of salt, and add one egg not beaten.
Stir together with the buttermilk, making the batter quite
thin. Set a tin baking pan on the stove, heat hot, melt in it
368 MRS. seelt's cook book
one tablespoon of butter and one of larcl. Pour the mixture
into the hot fat and with a fork lightly stir in the butter and
lard. Bake in a steady oven, not too hot, or the bread will
crack. When the bread is brown, stand the tin on an inverted
pie plate and bake five or six minutes longer.
Waffles
Three eggs, one pint of milk, half a cup of butter, flour
enough to make a thin batter, two teaspoons of baking powder
sifted in the mixture, a little salt. Mix well and bake on a
well-greased waffle iron. See that the iron is hot before pour-
ing in the batter.
Waffles
Cream one-half pound of butter, stirring one way. Add
one tablespoon of flour and one egg. Mix thoroughly, then
add another tablespoon of flour and one egg. Continue this
till eight of each have been stirred in. Always beat the same
way. Flavor with a little orange juice. Have the waffle iron
hot and well greased. Drop the dough and bake to a light
brown. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Serve
hot.
Batter Cakes
Two pints of flour, three eggs, one even teaspoon of soda,
one teaspoon of melted butter, and a little salt. Place the
flour in a saucepan — tin for lightness, and with a handle, as
easier to manage. Separate the whites and the yolks of the
eggs and add the yolks, without beating, to the flour, then stir
in the buttermilk, mixing slowly. When half mixed, drop in
the melted butter and beat the mixture hard and smooth.
Add more buttermilk, finishing it by leaving the batter rather
thick, as the whites of the eggs will thin it still more. Then
add the soda, dissolved in cold water, and lastly the beaten
BBEABS, PASTES, AND PIES 369
whites. Take out the spoon and stir in by lightly beating the
whites in the batter with a fork. When baking, lay the spoon
on a plate, that is, do not lay it again in the batter, as it will
make the cakes heavy.
For the griddle use beef suet which has been tried out and
is hard. Waffles are made by this same receipt.
Wheat Flour Griddle Cakes
Mix one pint of milk with three eggs, the yolks and whites
beaten separately. Add four tablespoons of melted butter.
Sift one and a half cups of flour with one and a half teaspoons
of baking powder. Add to the above and bake on a hot
griddle.
Buckwheat Cakes
Dissolve half of a compressed yeast-cake in a cup of water,
mix it with one pint of water, a pinch of salt, and enough buck-
wheat flour to make a stiff batter. Mix at night, and set the
batter in a moderately warm place where it will rise. In the
morning stir the batter briskly, add a tablespoon of molasses
to make the cakes brown. Should the batter be a little sour,
dissolve one-quarter of a teaspoon of soda in a little warm
water and stir it in well.
St. Louis Buckwheat Cakes
One pint of buckwheat, one handful of Graham flour, half
a cup of home-made yeast, salt. Add enough tepid water to
make a moderately thick batter and beat well. Set this to rise
early in the evening in a warm place. In the morning add a
pinch of soda, dissolved, and one tablespoon of molasses and
stir well. Bake on a griddle greased with beef suet.
Buckwheat, being heavy, requires all night to lighten. Be
sure the batter is not too thick when you are ready to bake.
If it is, add water to thin it.
2b
370 MES. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Corn Meal Batter Cakes
Mix thoroughly a pint of meal, half that quantity of flour,
two teaspoons of baking powder, and a pinch of salt. Pour
over this gradually and stir in a quart of fresh milk heated and
a heaping iron spoon of butter, dripping, or lard. Mix thor-
oughly again and beat well. Drop with a spoon and bake on
a hot griddle. An Qgg or two is sometimes added to this
receipt. If the corn meal swells a great deal and absorbs the
milk so that the batter is too thick, add more milk.
Hoe Cakes
Mix together a pint of freshly ground yellow corn meal, a
teaspoon of salt, and two teaspoons of sugar. Over the mixture
pour enough boiling water to wet it, but not enough to make
it spread. The water should be boiling, and the meal will
swell and absorb it if it is hot. Stir well one way. Kub a
piece of fat bacon over a hot griddle, drop the batter on it
from a spoon, and gently flat the cake till it is not more than
half an inch thick. Cook to a golden brown on both sides. A
small piece of butter may be laid upon the cake as it is turned,
or the butter may be omitted and the cakes sent to the table
for dressing. Such cakes are often eaten with scraped maple
sugar and cream, or again with butter and maple syrup.
Barley Meal Scones
In making barley meal scones, proceed as in making cream
scones, or merely mix fine fresh barley meal with a teaspoon of
salt and enough hot milk to make a stiff paste. On a floured
board roll out this paste and cut it in cakes. Bake in a quick
oven or on a hot griddle upon which fat has been rubbed.
Serve hot, and buttered if you choose.
BREADS, PASTES, AND PIES 371
Cream Scones
Having brought to the boiling-point in a saucepan a pint of
cream, sift in flour enough to make a thick batter and add a
teaspoon of salt. Put the paste upon a floured board, roll it to
the thickness of a quarter of an inch, cut in small cakes, and
cook on a hot griddle ten or fifteen minutes. When brown on
one side, turn them lightly and brown on the other. Serve on
a folded napkin.
Oatmeal Wafers
Make a batter or dough by stirring together oatmeal, hot
water, and a little salt. Take the batter on a well-floured
board, knead it, roll it as thin as possible, cut out in round
cakes, and cook them till brown and crisp on a griddle. When
they have browned on one side, they should be turned lightly
and browned on the other.
Rice Griddle Cakes
Wash and scald one cup of rice and drain, and cover with
boiling water. Cook about half an hour, or until the grains
are tender. Drain in a colander. Prepare the following bat-
ter : Sift one teaspoon of baking powder with one cup of flour
and add a pinch of salt. With this mix one pint of milk with
three well-beaten eggs and add three tablespoons of melted
butter, and just before baking stir in the rice. Spread in
spoonfuls on well-greased hot griddle and brown on both sides.
Rye Drop Cakes
Beat separately the yolks and whites of five eggs. Stir
them together and then stir in one pint and a half of rye flour,
one pint and four spoonfuls of milk, a pinch of salt, and a piece
of soda as large as a pea. Put in hot earthen cups and bake.
372 MRS. seelt's cook book
Flannel Cakes
Pour one pint of hot milk over two ounces of butter, add
five eggs, one pint of cold milk, flour enough to make a stiff
batter, one teaspoon of salt, and two tablespoons of yeast. Set
the batter in a warm place and let it rise for three hours.
Butter a griddle and drop on in small cakes.
Puff Paste
One pound of butter, one cup of ice water, one pound of
flour, half a teaspoon of salt. Wash the butter in ice water
until it is of a creamy substance. Pat it out in a long narrow
strip with the hand, put it in cheese cloth, and lay flat on the
ice. Weigh the flour and sift it into a bowl and add salt.
Mix well and then add water gradually. Mix well, using up
all your flour. Put your pastry on a board and work well for
ten minutes, or until it is tough and will not break when
pulled. The best way to work it is to slap it well on the board
and to pound it with the rolling pin. By the time your paste
is well pounded little puffs will appear — this is a very good
way to test it. Put your paste in the ice-box for twenty min-
utes, then put it on a board, and with your hands draw it out
a little longer and wider than your butter. Lay the butter in
the centre of the paste and fold up, first from the right, then
from the left, then from you, then next to you. Dust your
board lightly with flour and turn the folded side of the paste
on the board. Roll it out, taking care that the butter does not
come out. Fold it up, giving it three folds, and put it on the
ice for twenty minutes. Roll out twice more and fold up as
directed, put it on the ice again for twenty minutes, roll out
twice more, folding as before. This makes the fourth rolling.
Put it away in the ice-box until it is well chilled. Cut the
patties the same size. Take one piece of paste and brush it
with ice water, then take the second piece and with a small
TIN MOULD FOR MAKING PASTE, RICE, OR HOMINY,
(See p. 375.)
^-i^^AS^'
Facing page iS72.
'ATE SHELLS.
PASTES, AND PIES 373
cutter cut a hole in the centre ; place it on top of the first
piece, and brush the top and side with the yolk of a well-
beaten egg. After your patties are in the baking pan, give
them one hour in the ice-box before you place them in a hot
oven. Bake about twenty-five or thirty minutes. Care and
judgment must be used while they are baking.
Cheese Straws
Use two ounces of butter, two ounces of grated American
cheese, four ounces of flour, and one egg, salt and white pepper
to taste, and a dash of cayenne. Work the ingredients with
your hand; they become a smooth dough. Roll the dough
out thin, cut in straws four inches long, and bake on tin sheets
in a quick oven.
Cheese Biscuit
Over puff paste, well rolled out, grate as much well-flavored
cheese as will thickly cover the paste. Dash upon the cheese
a slight dust of cayenne, fold the paste over, and roll out thin.
After you have cut the biscuit in the shape you choose, brush
them with a paste brush dipped in beaten egg and bake a light
brown in a quick oven upon a floured baking sheet.
Cheese Pudding
With two beaten eggs stir half an ounce of melted butter
and half a gill of cream. When these are well mixed, add a
tablespoon of sifted bread crumbs and half a pound of grated
cheese. Mix thoroughly and bake in a dish lined with puff
paste.
Cream Cannelons
Roll out puff paste very thin, cut it in strips, say two by
three inches, and roll them round floured round sticks, making
the edges of the paste meet and forming a continuous paste
37-1 MES. seely's cook book
roll, or, if you like, you may wrap it so that it will have the
twist of a corkscrew. Bake, and after the baking and the can-
nelons are cool, remove the sticks. The centres may then be
filled with whipped cream. Preserves and jellies are also used
as a filling. To heighten their appearance, the cannelons may
be brushed with the white of an egg, dusted with sugar, and
heated again to form a glaze.
, Pastry Roulade
Roll puff paste very thin, cut it in strips four inches long
and one and a half inches wide. Roll on sticks which are
about as large in circumference as a five-cent piece, and which
you buy for the purpose. Place on a tin sheet and bake in a
quick oven. Fill with whipped cream, apple sauce, or cream
and preserves mixed together.
Log Cabin Dessert
Cut strips of pastry three inches long and one inch wide.
When baked, spread each strip with jam and place them on a
dish, log cabin style. Fill the centre space with whipped cream.
Metropolitan Cake
Roll puff paste about a quarter of an inch thick and cut out
two pieces each about eight inches square. Take one square
and spread the centre with marmalade of apricots or peaches.
Take the other square, brush the under part with cold water,
and place it on the marmalade. Press the edges of pastry to-
gether. Brush the top with beaten egg. Bake on baking sheet
in moderate oven for fifteen minutes. Sprinkle with powdered
sugar.
Pastry Ramekins
Roll some puff paste rather thin, sprinkle it with Parmesan
cheese, then fold it over. Repeat this three times. Cut with
BREADS, PASTES, AND PIES 375
a paste cutter any shape desired, brush these pieces with the
yolk of an egg, and bake in a quick oven. When done, serve
them at once.
Surprise Pastry
Roll puff paste out thin and bake in two round jelly tins.
Slice peaches, bananas, or any kind of fruit, and put between
the layers. Cover the whole completely with whipped cream.
Macro tes, a Jewish Receipt
Take one pound of French roll dough, six ounces of fresh
butter, two eggs, and as much flour as will be necessary to knead
these together. Roll it in the form of a long French roll and
cut off thin round slices. Set them at a short distance from
the fire to rise, and when light fry in the best Florence oil.
When nearly cold, dip them in clarified sugar flavored with
essence of lemon.
Pie Pastry-
Have at hand two quarts of sifted flour, one cup of lard, one
of butter, one tablespoon of salt, two of sugar, and one cup and
a half of cold water. Put one cup of the flour into a bowl with
the salt, sugar, lard, and butter. Chop until all are thoroughly
blended and then pour in the water gradually. When it is
well mixed, you should have a stiff paste. Sprinkle some of the
flour from the half cup on a board, put the paste on it, and roll
it with a floured rolling pin until it is about one-quarter of an
inch thick. Fold the paste over and roll it out again. Do this
three or four times. Then put it on ice, so that it will become
chilled. Lard may be omitted and all butter used ; if so, you
will need two cups and a half instead of one cup of butter.
Lard makes the paste richer and more tender, but butter gives
it the good flavor. Use as little flour as possible on the mould-
ing board.
376 MBS. seely's cook book
Pie Pastry
Mix one very full hand of flour, or two handfuls for an
upper and an under crust, and a little salt. Some time before
making the pastry, place lard in a bowl with a good piece of ice
and water. When the lard is very firm, take one heaping table-
spoon of lard to each handful of flour. Mix quickly with a
spoon and handle as little as possible, that the heat of the hand
may not affect it. Wet with the ice water just soft enough to
roll easily. Use a good deal of flour in rolling and a heavy
rolling pin, and fold and roll the crust twice. Bake in a well-
heated oven. Pastry is best baked as quickly as possible, with-
out turning.
Apple Pie
Slice the apples and rinse them in cold water. Set on the
stove with a very little sugar and stew until they are half done.
Place in the crust, add water, and bake. When done, with a
sharp knife remove the upper crust, sweeten to taste, add a good-
sized piece of butter, and if desired, nutmeg. Return the crust,
and when cold sift over the pie powdered sugar.
To prepare Fruit for Pies
Always stew the fruit before placing it in a pie or a crust.
Sugar and flavor and sprinkle over it a little flour before putting
on the upper crust.
Cream Pie
Pour one pint of cream over one cup of sugar. Add the
beaten whites of four eggs and a pinch of salt. Flavor with
nutmeg and bake without an upper crust.
Lemon Pie
Dissolve two tablespoons of corn- starch in a little cold water
and stir it into one pint of boiling water. Beat well the yolks
BREADS, PASTES, AND PIES 377
of three eggs with half a cup of granulated sugar, add the
grated rind of one lemon and the juice of two lemons, and stir
into the corn-starch. Line a pie dish with pastry, fill with the
lemon mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. Beat the whites
of the eggs to a stiff froth with half a cup of sugar, flavor with
lemon. Spread the meringue over the pie and place in a quick
oven long enough to become a delicate brown.
Lemon Pie
Grate the rind and squeeze the juice of two large lemons, add
three cups of sugar, four eggs, yolks and whites beaten sepa-
rately, four tablespoons of flour, two teacups of water, and the
last thing the whites of the eggs. Bake without an upper
crust.
Lemon Pie
First grate the rind of a fine large lemon, take out the pulp
and chop it with a chopping knife. Then mix one cup of water,
one cup of sugar (or half a cup of molasses and half a cup of
sugar), one tablespoon of flour dissolved, and set this mixture
in a pot of hot water over the fire to thicken, stirring constantly.
When well thickened, pour it over the chopped lemon. After
it cools a little, add one beaten egg. Bake in a deep pan with
both upper and under crust. Make a rich pastry for it.
Orange Pie
Take two fine oranges and grate the rind and all except the
leathery dividing skin of the centre, carefully taking out all
the seeds. Add one cup of sugar, three tablespoons of cream,
and the yolks of three eggs. Make a meringue of the whites
of the eggs and a little sugar. Bake with an under crust.
378 3IRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
Potato Pie
Take one pound of Irish potatoes rubbed through a colander,
one pound of sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, six eggs,
the whites well beaten, and the grated rind and peel of one
lemon. Let the hot potatoes fall from the colander on the butter
and mix well. Add the yolks of the eggs and the sugar well
beaten together, the lemon, and lastly the whites of the eggs
stirred in lightly. Pour into a paste-lined dish and bake. This
receipt makes two pies.
Pumpkin Pie
Mix one quart of milk with two teacups of strained boiled
pumpkin, one cup of granulated sugar, three well-beaten eggs,
one teaspoon of ground cinnamon, one teaspoon of ginger, and
salt to taste. Line pie dishes with pie pastry and fill with the
mixture. Bake in a hot oven.
Mince Pie
One bowl of cooked beef, chopped fine, one bowl and a half
of chopped suet, one bowl and a half of chopped apples, half a
cup of melted butter, two bowls of sweet cider, two bowls of
granulated sugar, one bowl of Port wine, one bowl of brandy,
one bowl of stoned raisins, one and a half bowls of currants,
half a bowl of citron that has been cut thin and in small pieces,
ground cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg to taste. Mix well and
bake in pie paste.
Mince Pie
Boil a beef's tongue two hours, then skin it and chop it as
small as possible. Chop very fine three pounds of fresh beef
suet, three pounds of good baking apples, four pounds of cur-
rents which have been washed, picked over, and dried, and one
pound of raisins, cleaned and stoned. Mix all these well with
BREADS, PASTES, AND PIES 379
one pound of powdered sugar, half an ounce of mace, half an
ounce of grated nutmeg, and a quarter of an ounce each of
cloves and cinnamon ; add one pint of French brandy. Make
a rich puff paste, lay the mince meat on the under crust, and
upon the meat spread bits of candied citron and orange peel
and then cover with an upper crust and bake.
The mince meat should be kept in an earthen jar when await-
ing use. Do not add the citron or orange until you bake.
CHAPTER XV
CANDIES, PRESERVES, AND PICKLES
Salted Almonds
Shell the necessary quantity of almonds and pour boiling
water over them. Then remove the skins. For each cup of
almonds add one tablespoon of olive oil. Mix them well and
let them soak for an hour. Sprinkle them with salt, a table-
spoon to each cup. Bake in moderate oven until they are a
delicate brown. While baking, occasionally shake the pan.
Candied Rose Leaves
Put half a pound of granulated sugar, three drops of lemon,
and half a cup of water in a saucepan. Let the liquid boil to a
crack. Test by dropping a little in cold water. When it will
snap apart and stick to your fingers, it is done. Remove from
the fire. Stir and rub against the side of the saucepan until
cool — not cold. The constant stirring and rubbing make the
liquid white and granular. Dip each rose leaf in this, roll
round, and spread on a well-oiled board to dry.
Syrup to Fasten Rose Leaves to Cake
Boil one cup of granulated sugar and four tablespoons of
water until, when tested, the syrup sticks to your fingers and
forms a thread. Dip the ends of the leaves in this and with a
brush moisten the cake where the leaf is to be applied.
380
,> ^
Facinrj pofje 3S0.
PASTRY CUTTERS.
(See p. 376.)
CANDIES, PBESEBVES, AND PICKLES 381
Candy Dough
In one glass put the white of an egg^ in another one put an
equal quantity of water. Mix them slowly with half a pound
of icing sugar and stir until it is dough-like.
Almond Creams
Blanch the almonds and cover them with candy dough.
The outsides may be varied in looks to suit the taste.
Cream Dates
From fresh dates take out the stones. Lay a roll of candy
dough in its place, press together, and lay away to stiffen.
Chocolate Creams
Boil together for five minutes half a cup of cream and two
cups of granulated sugar. Set the dish in another of cold water
and stir till the cream is hard enough to make into balls, first
flavoring with vanilla. Melt the chocolate, and dip in the balls.
Chocolate Cream Caramels
Put twelve ounces of chocolate in a saucepan with one pint
of chocolate syrup — sold by any grocer, or made after receipt
on page 395, — and one tablespoon of vanilla. When the liquid
begins to melt, add one pint of rich cream and one pound and a
half of granulated sugar. Let all come to a boil, and when it
begins to boil, stir it constantly until it becomes a large ball —
which will be in about ten minutes. Pour into slightly oiled
pans or on a marble slab. This caramel will take a long time
to cool. Cut in long strips, then across in inch squares. Fold
each one in oil paper as you cut it.
382 MES. seely's cook book
Cream Candies
Melt four cups of sugar and two cups of water. Add three
heaping tablespoons of arrowroot and a pinch of cream of
tartar. Boil up and pour into buttered moulds.
Cocoanut Drops
Take one pound of grated cocoanut, half a pound of pulver-
ized sugar, and the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
You must have enough of the white of egg to wet the sugar and
cocoanut. Beat well together and drop on buttered plates in
drops the size of a five-cent piece, and bake.
Cocoanut Drops
One cocoanut grated fine, half a pound of pulverized sugar,
and the whites of two eggs beaten to a froth. Drop on buttered
paper and bake in a quick oven.
Walnut Creams
Take perfect half meats of walnuts, press on either side of a
candy dough marble, and set away to harden.
Hickory Nut Kisses
Beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, add one pound
of granulated sugar, and one cup of hickory nut meats chopped
rather fine. Drop from teaspoons upon buttered paper and bake
fifteen minutes in a moderate oven.
French Nougat
Pour boiling water over half a pound of almonds. Let them
stand for five minutes. Remove the skins, and wash them. Cut
each one in eight long strips, then put them in the oven to dry.
CANDIES, PRESERVES, AND PICKLES 383
In a copper or enamelled saucepan put five ounces of granulated
sugar and stir carefully over the fire until colored brown, then
add your almonds, which should be slightly brown and very hot.
INIix all well together. Rub a little oil over a pan and pour in
the mixture. Cut into pieces about four inches long and two
inches wide. When cold, they are ready for use.
Fudge
Two cups of granulated sugar, half a cup of milk, a piece
of butter a little larger than an egg, a little salt, and seven tea-
spoons of Baker's cocoa. Boil twelve minutes. Add three
teaspoons of vanilla and stir for three minutes. Remove from
the fire. Pour, caramel thickness, into buttered tins. When
partially cold, mark off in squares.
A College Girl's Fudge
Take two cups of granulated sugar and one cup of milk,
and after heating add two heaping tablespoons of chocolate
and a piece of butter the size of an egg. Boil for twenty or
thirty minutes. To test it, stir a little in a saucer. If it
hardens when cold, it is fudge. As you take it from the fire,
you may add a teaspoon of vanilla and some walnut meats, say
a cup to the above proportions, or not, just as you please.
Either with or without, it is fudge. When it is once off the
fire, stir the mixture till it begins to stiffen, pour it in shallow
buttered pans, mark off into squares, and set away to cool.
Maple Sugar Fudge
Follow the above receipt except in case of sugar. In this
receipt take a cup and a half of maple sugar and half a cup of
granulated sugar, and proceed as above directed.
384 MRS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Butter Scotch
Melt together two tablespoons of sugar, three of molasses,
one of water, and two of butter. Pour in a buttered dish and
set away to cool.
Sugared Popcorn
Take one cup of brown sugar, three tablespoons of water,
and a lump of butter. Let the mixture boil until it holds
together in water. Then add three quarts of popped corn and
stir well. Care should be taken to use a kettle large enough
to hold the corn.
Candied Popcorn
Cook one cup of butter, two cups of sugar, and three cups
of molasses together until the mixture hardens in water, then
stir in the popped corn.
Old-fashioned Cough Candy-
Pour over a gill of whole flaxseed half a pint of boiling
water. In another dish, holding a cup of slippery elm, pour also
enough boiling water to cover. Let these stand for two hours,
then strain both into a porcelain kettle containing a pound and
a half of granulated sugar wet with the juice of two lemons.
Press the strainer holding the seed and the elm in order to get
their healing substances. Boil the mixture till it candies, and
then pour it on pans on which buttered paper has been spread.
St. Louis Molasses Candy-
Put one tablespoon of butter, one cup of sugar, and two
tablespoons of water in a kettle. When the mixture boils, add
half a cup of molasses. Boil fifteen or twenty minutes, or
longer, according to test. Add nut meats just before pouring
in buttered tins. Spread it as thin as possible.
CANDIES, PRESERVES, AND PICKLES 385
Glazed Fruits
Put two pounds of cut sugar and two gills of cold water in a
sugar boiler over the fire and boil until the top is covered with
large bubbles. Test it by dropping a little into cold water.
When it snaps, it is done. Wipe the sides of the boiler occa-
sionally to remove the sugar that is apt to collect. Remove the
boiler from the fire and dip the fruits in the sugar. Then lay
them on a dish rubbed with a little olive oil.
Cranberry Jelly a la Cereal
Put one quart of cranberries with three cups of sugar and
half a cup of hot water in a porcelain-lined saucepan over a
slow fire for ten minutes, or until the sugar is thoroughly melted.
Do not let them boil. Be careful not to stir them. Shake the
saucepan back and forth on the range. When the sugar is
dissolved, and the syrup is a bright red, pour the jelly in moulds
to jell. The berries must be whole.
Cranberry Jelly
One quart of cranberries, one pint of granulated sugar, and
half a pint of water. Cook the cranberries in the water for
twenty minutes. Then rub through a fine sieve and add the
sugar. Cook ten minutes longer. Do not add more or less of
the liquid or sugar, or the jelly will not mould. It should boil
all the time it is cooking. The time during which an article is
coming to the boiling-point cannot be counted by any rule.
The moment the liquid has cooked ten minutes, turn it into a
mould and set it in a cool place for twelve hours or more.
Cranberries should always be cooked in porcelain.
Currant Jelly
Remove the leaves, not the stems, and carefully pick over
and wash the currants. Drain thoroughly. Put them in a
2c
386 3fRS. seelt's .cook book
porcelain -lined preserving kettle and stew until they are reduced
to a soft pulp. Rub the pulp through a colander. Then strain
twice through a flannel bag. Be sure to get all the juice.
Measure it, and to one pint of juice have one pound and a
quarter of granulated sugar. Put the sugar where it will
become thoroughly warmed, — on the shelf over the range is a
good place. Boil the juice eighteen minutes after it begins to
boil. Remove, and gradually stir in the warm sugar. Stir until
the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, or when it jells the sugar
will come to the top. Pour into jelly glasses and set in a cool
place. The second or third day, soak pieces of white paper in
alcohol, brandy, or whiskey, put them on the jelly, and cover
the glasses with paper or tin cover.
Preserved Apples
Peal, core, and chop two pounds of fine acid apples. Mean-
while have boiling two pounds of sugar, three gills of water,
and two ounces of ginger. When this syrup is thick, stir in
the two pounds of chopped apples and boil till the apples are
thick and clear.
Brandied Peaches
Select ripe White Heath peaches, rub each one smooth and
clean, and boil until tender in syrup made as follows : A pound
and a half of granulated sugar thoroughly dissolved in one
quart of hot water. When the peaches are cooked, you can
test them with a broom straw. Place them on a dish to cool.
If you desire them extra strong of spirits, cover them with pure
spirits or white brandy. When they have cooled, drain them
and ascertain their weight. To one pound of fruit have half
a pound of granulated sugar. Dissolve the sugar in a little
water, place it on the stove and let it come to a boil, skim it,
and to each pint of sugar syrup add one pint of fresh brandy
CANDIES, PRESERVES, AND PICKLES 387
or spirits. Place the peaches in ghxss jars, fill each one with the
hot syrup. The jars must have air-tight covers and be sealed
while the contents are very hot.
Brandied Pears
Peal the pears and follow the receipt for peaches.
Brandied Plums
Prick the plums and proceed as for brandied peaches, cook-
ing the fruit less.
Spiced Pears
Take one teaspoon of whole cloves, one tablespoon of all-
spice, and one tablespoon of cinnamon. Crush them slightly
and boil one minute in a quart of vinegar and a pint of sugar
mixed. Select a fine variety of pear, halve them, taking out
the seeds, boil them in water until nearly tender, and finish
them in the syrup, cooking them not too soft. Cover them
well with syrup and place them in small, stone jars. Tie a cover
over the jar.
Spiced Peaches
Are made the same as spiced pears, except that they are not
boiled in water. The syrup will cook them sufficiently.
Black Raspberry Jam
Take one crate of berries, and, dividing them, crush one-half,
heat in a preserving kettle, and then put them through a sieve.
Add the liquid to the other half of the berries, set them over
the fire, add a quarter of a pound of sugar to each box of berries,
and boil till the jam is thick. Put in glasses, cover with para-
fin, and set away for use.
388 MRS. seelt's cook book
Red Raspberry Jam
Take twelve boxes of berries, the juice of seven fine lemons,
and ten pounds of sugar. Cook thoroughly in a preserving
kettle and put in glasses, as in above receipt.
Rhubarb
Wash and cut in small pieces one pound of fresh rhubarb.
Put in a baking dish with one cup of sugar, a cup of water,
the thinnest possible shaving of lemon peel, and a bit of ginger.
Cover and bake. When quite tender, remove from the oven
and set aside to cool, removing the bits of lemon peel. Put
two tablespoons of gelatine to soak in cold water and then
dissolve it in a little hot water. Add to the rhubarb with
a tables^DOon of lemon juice. Pour into a mould and let it
harden on the ice. Serve with whipped cream.
Rhubarb Jelly-
Rhubarb jelly is made by putting the rhubarb, cut in small
pieces, to cook in just enough water to cover it. Add a bit
of lemon peel and cook slowly for ten minutes. For every
pound of the rhubarb — weighed before it is cooked — add half
a pound of sugar. Add gelatine enough to make a good, firm
jelly when cold.
Strawberry Preserves
Weigh one pound of granulated sugar to one pound of
large, ripe strawberries. Hull the berries, and, if it is nec-
essary, wash them before hulling, and drain and thoroughly
dry them. Place the sugar in a preserving kettle, with just
enough water to prevent the sugar sticking to the bottom, and
boil until it becomes a thick syrup. Skim off the scum that
comes to the top. When the syrup is thick and clear, drop in
CANDIES, PBESERVES, AND PICKLES 389
enough berries to float on the top, but not to crowd them.
Let them boil twenty minutes. Remove them carefully — do
not break them — and put them in air-tight jars. Boil the
syrup for half an hour and while hot strain over the berries.
Seal the jars and set them in a cool place.
Wintergreen Berry Jam a la Polonaise
After cleaning the berries, scald them for a moment, then
take half a pound of sugar to one pound of berries, and cook in
a porcelain kettle until the berries are clear and transparent.
Grate orange rind very fine and add as a flavoring to taste.
The berries should be stirred while cooking to prevent burning.
Chili Sauce
Chop and boil together two hours six dozen large, ripe toma-
toes, one dozen green peppers, one dozen white onions, twelve
tablespoons of salt, twenty-four tablespoons of brown sugar,
twelve teaspoons each of ginger, cloves, and cinnamon. The
kettle used here, as in cooking all acids, should be porcelain.
While hot pour in bottles and seal hermetically.
Chili Sauce
Have at hand eighteen ripe tomatoes, six onions, six small
red peppers, nine tablespoons of sugar, two cups of vinegar,
and salt to taste. Peel the tomatoes and onions and remove
the seeds and core from the peppers. Chop all very fine, add
the sugar and salt, and boil in a porcelain kettle until the
sauce becomes thick. While hot pour in air-tight jars.
Pepper Hash
Take one good-sized cabbage chopped fine, remove the
seeds and core from twelve green peppers and two red peppers,
390 MRS. seely's cook book
chop them, also two small teacups of grated horseradish, two
ounces of whole cloves, two ounces of white mustard seed, half
an ounce of celery seed, and about two quarts of cider vinegar.
Sprinkle the chopped cabbage with salt. Let it stand for an
hour. Then with the hand squeeze out all the water. After
chopping the peppers, cover them with salt. Let them stand
one hour. Press all the water from them through a colander
or sieve, using a spoon, for the liquid would burn the hands.
Mix all together and cover with vinegar.
Cucumber Pickle
Make a brine strong enough to hold up an egg. When
boiling hot, pour over six hundred pickles and four green pep-
pers. The pickles must be covered with the brine. Let them
stand for twenty-four hours. Drain and thoroughly dry each
one, then cover with boiling vinegar, and stand for twenty-
four hours. Drain, heat fresh vinegar, and add the following
ingredients to it: One ounce of whole cloves, one ounce of cin-
namon sticks, one ounce of whole allspice, two quarts of brown
sugar, half a pint of whole mustard seed, and four tablespoons
of whole celery seed. While this mixture is boiling hot, pour
it over the cucumbers. Place in a stone crock or glass jars.
Remove the cores and nearly all the seeds from the peppers.
Stuffed Cucumbers
Pack medium-sized cucumbers in dry salt. In two weeks
take them from the brine, soak them three days in fresh water,
changing the water each day. Without rinsing, place them in
a kettle in layers, between each layer add sliced onion, red
(Chili) pepper, strips of horseradish, and a small quantity of
sugar. When the kettle is half full, place in the middle a
small quantity of whole spice — cinnamon, allspice, and cloves
(less of cloves) — tied in a cloth. Cover with cold vinegar.
CANDIES, PRESERVES, AND PICKLES 391
Stand on the stove and let them slowly come to a boil, and at
once take them off and place in jars.
Open the cucumbers lengthwise, cut a small piece out of
each half, fill the opening with strips of horseradish and black
and white mustard seeds, wet with olive oil. Put the two
halves together and tie with narrow strips of cheese-cloth.
Put the cucumbers back in the vinegar to keep until needed.
Serve after cutting and removing the binding.
French Pickle
Three quarts of sliced green tomatoes, one quart of sliced
white onions, and three quarts of peeled and sliced cucumbers.
Place all in a stone jar and sprinkle with one cup of salt. Let
them stand twenty-four hours, then drain off the water and
add half an ounce of celery seed, a quarter of an ounce of
cloves or mace, one teacup of white mustard seed, and half a
cup of black pepper. Blend one tablespoon of tumeric with a
little water and two tablespoons of ground mustard. Add to
the pickles and cover with one gallon of the best cider vinegar.
Oil Pickle
Peel and slice rather thick one hundred large cucumbers.
Place them in a colander with salt between the layers. Put
one-third as many white onions as you have cucumbers in a
colander, and treat in the same manner as the cucumbers. Let
them stand for three hours. Mix one-half pound of Coleman's
mustard the same as you would for table use. Spread a layer
of cucumbers in the bottom of a stone jar, then a layer of
onions, then mustard, then moisten with olive oil. You will
need one quart of oil for the above quantity. Spread another
layer of cucumbers, onions, etc., and continue until the jar is
two-thirds full. Cover all -with cold vinegar. Tie a cloth
over the jar and set in a cool place for a month or six weeks.
392 MBS. seely's cook book
Green Tomato Pickle
Half a peck of green tomatoes, a dozen onions, half a dozen
red peppers, half a dozen green peppers, half a pound of white
mustard seed, and two ounces of celery seed. Slice the toma-
toes in a stone jar and sprinkle salt between each layer.
Cover with boiling water and let them stand over night. In
the morning drain them thoroughly and scald them in a
liquid made half of vinegar and half of water. Drain again.
Place in a stone jar alternate layers of the tomatoes and the
mixture of the mustard and celery seed, the sliced onions, and
the peppers from which the seeds and cores are removed.
Cover with vinegar.
Green Tomato Pickle
Take a peck of green tomatoes, two large green peppers,
four large onions, a scant cup of grated horseradish, an ounce
each of ground allspice, cinnamon, and white pepper, and a tea-
cup of brown sugar. Cut the tomatoes in thin slices and
place them in an earthen crock in layers. Sprinkle each layer
lightly with salt and in the morning drain off the water.
Remove the seeds and cores from the peppers, chop the onions,
peppers, and tomatoes in small pieces, mix with the other
ingredients in a porcelain-lined kettle, cover with cider vine-
gar, and stew gently until tender. Place in an earthen crock
or in glass jars. Keep in a cool place.
CHAPTER XVI
BEVERAGES
Beverages
Always observe the following rules when compounding
any cold beverage : —
Be sure to serve it ice cold and not too sweet. Have one
piece of ice as large as possible, to use in the pitcher or bowl
intended for serving. Small pieces of ice melt quickly and
weaken the beverages. The sugar, fruit, and all ingredients,
except the wine^ ice^ and carbonated tuater, should be mixed
thoroughly and placed in the ice-box for at least three-quarters
of an hour before they are served. Fifteen minutes before
serving add the wine, except Champagne, stir well, and pour
into the pitcher or bowl in which a large piece of ice has just
been placed. Champagne and any carbonated water should not
be added until just before serving.
Barley Water
Wipe very clean two tablespoons of pearl barley. Put it in
a quart jug with three or four lumps of sugar, a pinch or two
of salt, and a strip of lemon peel. Fill up the jug with boiling
water and shake the mixture gently for some minutes. Then
cover it and let it stand until perfectly cold. In twelve hours
it will be fit for use. Made in this way the barley water will
be comparatively clear and soft and pleasant to drink.
If the flavor of lemon is unpalatable to the invalid, or the
sugar makes it too sweet, these ingredients may be omitted or
modified.
393
394 MBS. seelt's cook book
A glass of calf's-foot jelly added to the barley is much
appreciated by some. After the barley water has been poured
off, the jug may be filled a second time with boiling water.
Barley Water
Put two ounces of well-washed pearl barley in a porcelain-
lined saucepan with a quart of water, the grated rind and juice
of a lemon, and two ounces of seeded raisins. Boil steadily
until the liquor is reduced one-half. Strain and sweeten while
warm.
Barley Negas
Boil two tablespoons of barley in a quart of water. Add
a pint of Sherry, the juice of half a large lemon, a dash of nut-
meg, and sweeten to taste.
A Bishop
Stick cloves in the rind of a lemon or orange and roast it
a long time before a slow fire. Put equal quantities of cinna-
mon, cloves, allspice, and mace into a little water, and boil
them until the whole strength is extracted. Boil a bottle of
Port or claret wine and put the roast lemon and spice into it.
Sweeten, and add the juice of half a lemon and grate in some
nutmeg. Serve hot with the lemon and spice floating in it.
Blackberry Cordial
Heat the berries, press them through a colander, and strain
the juice. To three pints of juice use one pound of sugar.
Tie in a small bag the whole spice of cinnamon, clove, and
allspice. Use clove very sparingly. Boil fifteen or twenty
minutes. Add California brandy to taste.
BEVERAGES 395
Caudle
Mix two tablespoons of oatmeal in a quart of water with a
blade or two of mace and a piece of lemon peel. Stir often,
and let the mixture boil twenty minutes. Strain and sweeten,
and add a little white wine, nutmeg, and a little lemon juice.
Chocolate Syrup
Mix three tablespoons of scraped chocolate with one pint of
boiling water. Let the mixture boil up, then add one pint of
sugar, and boil three minutes. When cold, add one tablespoon
of vanilla.
Put two tablespoons of the syrup and two of cracked ice in
a glass, and fill the glass with milk. Add two tablespoons of
whipped cream. Stir well.
Brandy Cocktail
Fill a small bar glass one-third full of shaved ice, and on it
place three or four dashes of gum syrup, two dashes of Angos-
tura bitters, one wine-glass of brandy, and one or two dashes
of curaQoa. Shake well together, strain into a cocktail glass,
twist a small piece of lemon rind in it, and serve at once.
Holland Gin Cocktail
Fill a small bar glass one-third full of shaved ice, add two
or three dashes of Boker's bitters, one wine-glass of Holland
gin, and one or two dashes of curagoa. Shake, and strain into
a cocktail glass, twist a small piece of lemon rind in it, and
serve at once.
Manhattan Cocktail
Take two dashes of curagoa or maraschino, one pony of rye
whiskey, one wine-glass of vermouth, three dashes of Boker's
bitters, and two small lumps of ice, put into a small bar glass,
shake well, and pour into a claret or cocktail glass. If one
prefers it rather sweet, add two dashes of gum syrup.
396 MBS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
Martini Cocktail
Put two small lumps of ice in a small bar glass, add one
dash of Boker's bitters, two dashes of maraschino, one pony
of Old Tom gin, and one wine-glass of vermouth. Shake
thoroughly and strain into a large cocktail glass. Put a
quarter of a slice of lemon in the glass and serve. If pre-
ferred very sweet, add two dashes of gum syrup.
Tom Gin Cocktail
The same as Holland gin cocktail, except the substituting
Tom gin in place of the Holland gin.
Whiskey Cocktail
Take three or four dashes of gum syrup in a small bar glass,
filled one-third full of shaved ice, add two dashes of Boker's
bitters, and one wine-glass of whiskey. Shake, and strain into
a cocktail glass. Twist a small piece of lemon rind in it and
serve at once.
Boiled CoJaFee
Use as much ground coffee as is needed, allowing one table-
spoon of coffee to one cup of boiling water. Place on the range,
and when it comes to a boil, uncover and remove from the fire.
Let it stand two or three minutes, then cover it, and replace
over the fire. The instant it boils, remove and let it stand
five minutes. It is then ready to serve. Sometimes an egg
is beaten up and with a little cold water is mixed with the
coffee before the boiling water is poured on. This is to clear it.
Black Coffee
Place six tablespoons of ground coffee in the strainer of
a drip coffee-pot. Pour over it three cups of boiling water.
Let it stand a minute or two after it has drained and then
serve. The coffee must be ground very fine and the water
must be boiling.
BEVERAGES 397
Austrian Coffee
A coffee of the above name, sometimes served at teas and
receptions, is a cold, strong coffee, creamed and sweetened. It
is served in small glasses, with a tablespoon of ice cream added
to each glass after the coffee is put in.
A Breakfast Coffee
Three-quarters of a teacup of ground coffee, Java and
Mocha mixed. Three-quarters of a pint of cold water. Stir
together the yolk and white of an egg, and pour a third with
a piece of the shell into the coffee. Mix well, add a pint and
a half of boiling water, and boil quickly five minutes. Stir
the coffee, set back, and boil slowly ten or fifteen minutes
more, and add a little cold water to settle. Strain into the
cups.
Cold Cocoa
To make one cup, mix one heaping teaspoon of cocoa with
sugar to taste in a little hot water. Then fill the glass with
rich cold milk or cream.
Cider Cup
Fill a pitcher with cracked ice and over it pour one quart
of cider, add one small spoonful of sugar, and one bottle of
club soda. Decorate the top with different kinds of thinly
sliced fruits and a bunch of young mint. Serve at once.
Champagne Cup
Two gills of brandy, two gills of red curaQoa, one gill of
green Chartreuse, a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and the
juice of five lemons. After mixing, pour into a pitcher in which
there is a large piece of ice. Then add a quart and a half of
Champagne and one quart of Apollinaris.
398 MRS. seelt's cook book
Claret Cup
Ice the claret in the bottle, also the club soda. Do not
put ice in the pitcher. Mix one teaspoon ful of crushed mint
juice with the juice of one lemon, one teaspoonful of sugar, two
ponies of brandy, two ponies of curagoa. When thoroughly
mixed in a glass pitcher, add one bottle of claret and one bottle
of club soda fresh from the ice, the thin peel of a whole lemon,
a few slices of orange and pineapple, and decorate the top with
a bunch of young mint, which has been slightly dampened and
sprinkled with powdered sugar it give it a frosted appearance.
Claret Cup
Five lumps of sugar dissolved in water, one liqueur glass
of Medford rum, one quart of good claret, one orange and one
lime sliced thin, and the juice of one lemon. Place the paring
of a cucumber and a large piece of ice in a good-sized pitcher,
stir thoroughly, and after a few moments remove the cucumber
rind. Then add one bottle of club soda and place a bunch of
mint in the pitcher.
Champagne may be used in place of the soda. In place
of the cucumber and mint use sliced pineapple and any small
fruit.
Military Cup
Into a tumbler put five small lumps of ice and over the ice
squeeze a lemon. The lemon should be a fine one and good
for six vigorous squeezes before it is dry. After the lemon
juice has trickled over the ice, throw in two teaspoons of fine
sugar, and over the sugar pour claret until the ice is covered.
Shake the mixture and pour it in a punch bowl which you have
close at hand. In the tumbler make the same mixture five more
times. At length when the punch bowl holds the claret, lemon
juice, sugar, and ice pour in its midst a tablespoon of Benedic-
tine cordial. Ladle this in freely and then add a quarter of a
wine-glass of fine brandy. If you choose, add also half a glass
BEVERAGES 399
of Sherry. Stir well with the ladle and if you like float a half
dozen berries on the punch. Serve by ladling a glass half full
of the punch and then filling it with iced seltzer. The seltzer
should be put in with such force that it will mix with the
punch. Place a paper straw or two in each glass.
Moselle Cup
To four small lumps of sugar dissolved in a little water, add
one quart of Moselle wine, one liqueur glass of Medford rum, one
orange and one lime — both sliced thin. Pour all in a pitcher
over a large piece of ice and place on ice. When thoroughly
chilled add one bottle of club soda. Place a bunch of mint
stems down in the top of the pitcher. Crush a leaf or two of
mint with some sugar in the bottom of the pitcher before you
pour in the ingredients.
Rhine Wine Cup
Ice the Rhine wine and club soda in a glass pitcher. In
a glass pitcher mix one glass of maraschino with one glass of
curagoa. Add one quart of Rhine wine and a bottle of club
soda. Decorate with thinly sliced fruits and place a bunch of
verbena on top just before serving. Do not have any ice in
the pitcher.
Bgg Flip
To three beaten eggs add a quarter of a pound of sugar and
a pint of boiling water, stirring well, and adding the water a
little at a time. When the water is well stirred in, add half a
pint of brandy and half a gill of rum and serve hot.
Egg Lemonade
Make a good New York lemonade by using one lemon to a
tumbler. Add sugar enough to make it of the sweetness your
taste wishes — it gains by being on the side of sour, that is, in
wanting a little in sweetness, and then break into the tumbler
400 MBS. SEELY'S COOK BOOK
an absolutely fresh egg. Fill the glass nearly full of Vichy, or
ApoUinaris, or of pure cold water, and shake vigorously, hav-
ing capped the tumbler with a metal shaker. When the egg
is well lost in the liquid, it is ready to drink cold.
Egg Nog
Put a little shaved ice in a large glass and add one egg,
half a wine-glass of brandy, half a wine-glass of Santa Cruz
rum, and a large teaspoonful of powdered sugar. Fill the glass
with rich milk and shake it until the ingredients are thoroughly
mixed. Strain into another glass, grate a little nutmeg on the
top, and serve. This may be made by using a wine-glass of
either of the above liquors instead of both combined.
Egg Wine
Break a nice fresh egg into a tumbler and beat it until it is
smooth and thick. Add a tablespoon of pulverized sugar and
stir in a glass of the best Port wine. This is very strengthening
for an invalid to take about the hour of noon, if the physician
permits it. When wine is not allowed, a glass of new milk may
be used instead.
Gin Rickey
Put two lumps of ice in a tall glass, add the juice of half a
lime, the desired amount of gin, and then fill the glass with cold
seltzer water.
Gum Syrup
Boil one generous pound of loaf sugar with one pint of
water for five minutes, then add enough hot water to make it
up to one quart. Bottle and use when needed.
High Ball
Put some cracked ice in a tall glass, add a half or full whis-
key glass of Scotch whiskey. Fill the glass with seltzer. Twist
a small piece of lemon rind in and serve at once.
BEVERAGES 401
Hot Scotch
Rub five lumps of sugar over the outside of a fresh lemon so
that all the oil is absorbed. Place these in an earthen pitcher
and add five Sherry glasses of the best Scotch whiskey. Light
this and stir continually until it burns out. Add seven glasses
of boiling water and serve at once.
Lemonade
The juice of twelve large lemons, thirty lumps of sugar
thoroughly dissolved in a little water, and three quarts of water.
Pour all in a pitcher with plenty of ice. This will serve ten or
twelve people.
Soda Lemonade
Dissolve eight lumps of sugar in a little water and add the
juice of three lemons. Pour into a glass pitcher over ice and
add two bottles of club soda which is thoroughly chilled and
one large lemon sliced thin. This will be enough for three
persons.
Apollinaris Lemonade
Make Apollinaris lemonade the same way, substituting one
and one-half pints of Apollinaris in place of soda water.
Mint Julep
Put one-half teaspoonful of orange bitters in a large glass
with three sprigs of mint. Crush the mint in the bitters and
then add one Sherry glass of Italian vermouth and one Sherry
glass of rye whiskey. Fill the glass about one-quarter full of
finely shaved ice, stir a little, then fill the glass with fine ice.
Add a few thin slices of orange and pineapple, a few straw-
berries, and two or three sprigs of mint. Insert two straws and
serve. Handle the glass carefully so as not to destroy the
frosting on the outside of the glass.
2d
402 MBS. seely's cook book
Mint Julep
Strip tender leaves of mint into a tumbler and add to them
as much wine, brandy, or other spirit as you wish to use. Put
pounded ice into a second tumbler, pour over it the mint and
wine, and continue to pour the mixture from one tumbler to the
other until it is flavored with the mint to your taste. The oily
flavor of the mint is extracted by the particles of ice striking
the leaves as they pass from one tumbler to the other. Finally
pack the glass with the julep in a large glass with pounded ice.
Serve with care not to destroy the frost work on the glass.
Alexandra Punch
Pour one generous pint of boiling water over four teaspoon-
fuls of Oolong tea. Let it stand five minutes, then strain.
When it is cold, add the juice of two oranges, two lemons, one
spare pint of brandy, two Sherry glasses of green Chartreuse,
and one quart Jamaica rum. Sweeten to taste and strain.
Place a large lump of ice in a bowl and pour the mixture over
it. Remove the seeds from two oranges and one lime. Slice
them thin, add to the above. Lastly, pour in one quart of
Champagne and serve at once.
Champagne Punch
Three teaspoonfuls of tea steeped five minutes in one pint
of boiling water. Strain and stand away to cool. When cold,
add one sliced orange, which has been peeled, six lumps of loaf
sugar, five tJiin slices of pineapple, two liqueur glasses of brandy,
two of maraschino, and two of Medford rum. Mix, and then
add one quart of Champagne, one bottle of plain cold soda, and
one-half pint Rhine wine. Pour in a punch bowl and serve at
once.
Fruit Punch
Three sca7it Sherry glasses of curagoa, the juice of three
large lemons, one pint of fruit crushed with a little sugar, and
BEVERAGES 403
half a pint of brandy. Use either peaches or red raspberries
with the above. Mix, and add two and one-half pints of claret.
Sweeten to taste. Strain through a bag made of flannel and
then add a quart and a half of Champagne and one pint of
Apollinaris. If you cannot get the fresh fruit, you may substi-
tute fruit syrups. Do not use sugar, should you use the syrup.
Mexican Punch
Mix one quart of Madeira, one pint of brandy, two Sherry
glasses of Jamaica rum, one pint of Port wine, and the juice of
six lemons. Peel and remove the seeds of eight oranges, slice
them in the mixture, and sweeten to taste. Pour in a covered
vessel (not metal) and set away in a cool place for four days.
Three-quarters of an hour before using strain and pour into a
punch bowl in which there is a big piece of ice. Add two
quarts of Champagne just before serving.
Milk Punch
Put two small lumps of ice in a large glass and add one
teaspoonful of fine white sugar, one wine-glass of brandy, and
one-half wine-glass of Santa Cruz rum. Fill the glass with rich
milk, shake it, and then strain into another glass. Grate a
little nutmeg in the milk and serve.
Roman Punch
The ingredients are four quarts of Jamaica rum, three
quarts of water, five pints of boiling milk, three pounds of loaf
sugar, twenty-four lemons, and two nutmegs. Cut only the
yellow of the lemons in thin slices. Let these and the nutmegs
infuse for twenty-four hours in a warm place in one quart of
the rum. Put into a large vessel the water, sugar, rum, and
the rum the lemon has been in, and also the juice of the lemons.
When the sugar is dissolved, add the milk boiling. It will
curdle. Cover, and let the mixture stand one hour, and then
filter it through a flannel bag till it is bright and clear as crystal.
404 MRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
This amount will fill one dozen quart bottles. It is better with
age. A tablespoon of it over lemon ice makes a delicious dish.
Whiskey Punch
Have a good-sized pitcher with two large pieces of ice in it.
Pour in one pint of good whiskey, Bourbon, and the juice of
four lemons. Stir the mixture thoroughly with a spoon and
then add two bottles of ginger ale — Cantrells' is the best —
and six teaspoons of granulated sugar.
Boot Beer
This wholesome drink, which was made every spring in the
households of our American forbears, is delicious as well as
healthful, and it is a pity that the use of genuine root beer is
dying out. The sarsaparilla, yellow dock, dandelion, burdock,
and hops used for its making were all products of the near-by
woods and fields. Bark of the wild cherry was sometimes put
in, birch bark also, and elecampane, and the aromatic spikenard.
In springtime children went out with trowel and basket, and
their intimate knowledge of the growths about them helped to
their brewing.
The roots should be all thoroughly washed and then bruised.
To two gallons of water take an ounce each of the ingredients.
Put the roots in the cold water and set them over the fire so
that the heating will draw all the essences and flavors of the
growths. Let them steep about half an hour and then strain.
Add a pound of sugar and about twenty-five drops of the oil of
sassafras or spruce, and, when the brew is cool enough not to
kill the yeast, add say six or eight tablespoons to the above
quantity of water, or a dry yeast-cake or two dissolved in a
little tepid water. Stir the yeast in well and set the brew away
in an earthen jar and give it some hours to work. After three
or four hours it may be bottled or kept in the jar for immediate
drinking without bottling.
BEVERAGES 405
Currant Shrub
Add a pound of sugar to a pint of strained currant juice.
Boil the sugar and juice gently together in a porcelain kettle,
and, after boiling eight or ten minutes, set it where it will cool.
When lukewarm, add a wine-glass of French brandy to every
pint of syrup. Bottle, cork tight, and keep in a cool place.
Lemon Shrub
To a pint of the juice of fine fresh lemons put a pound of
sugar. Measure out for each pint of the syrup three tablespoons
of French brandy, and soak the thin rind of the lemons in it.
Let the whole remain a day, stirring up the lemon juice and
sugar frequently. The next day turn off the syrup and mix it
with the brandy and lemon rinds. Put in clean bottles, cork
and seal tight, and keep in a cool place.
Raspberry Shrub
To three quarts of fresh ripe raspberries put one quart of
good vinegar. Let them remain together in a porcelain dish for
a day, strain and boil and put to each pint of juice a pound of
white sugar. Boil the whole together for half an hour and
skim it clear. When cool, add a wine-glass of French brandy
to each pint of the shrub.
A couple of tablespoons of this mixed with a tumbler two-
thirds full of water is a wholesome and refreshing drink in
fevers.
Raspberry Shrub
Pour one quart of vinegar over six quarts of red raspberries
and let it stand twenty-four hours. Strain and add one pound
of granulated sugar to one pint of juice. Scald twenty minutes.
Bottle and cork tightly.
406 MBS. SJEELT'S COOK BOOK
Strawberry Vinegar
Place the strawberries without water in a preserving kettle,
let them heat until the juice is well drawn, and add sugar to
make very sweet. Boil ten or fifteen minutes until rich, then
add vinegar enough to taste a trifle acid.
Raspberry Vinegar
Is made in the same way.
Sherry Cobbler
Put in a glass five scant tablespoons of Sherry with a half a
tablespoon of powdered sugar, one thin slice of lemon, and two
thin slices of orange, and fill scantily with crushed ice. Place
the shaker over the glass and shake it hard. Garnish with any
small fruits in season. Candied cherries may be used if fresh
fruits are not at hand. Serve with two straws. Any still wine
may be used if preferred to Sherry.
Stone Pence
Pour one wine-glass of Bourbon or rye whiskey in a large
bar glass, add two or three small lumps of ice, and fill the glass
with sweet cider.
Tea
First scald the teapot and then allow one teaspoonful of tea
for each cup of boiling water, and an extra one for the pot.
Let stand for a few minutes and then serve. English breakfast
tea should stand at least five minutes before it is served.
Russian Tea
Pour just enough boiling water over three generous table-
spoons of English breakfast tea to cover it. Let it stand a
minute, then draw the water off. Pour in half a pony of
Jamaica rum and three pints of boiling water. Leave it to
BEVERAGES 407
steep for three or four minutes. Serve in cups with thin slices
of lemon, powdered sugar, and a decanter of Jamaica rum on a
tray.
Tom and Jerry-
Beat together to a perfect froth four eggs, six large table-
spoons of pulverized sugar, and six wine-glasses of St. Croix
rum, and one pint of boiling water. Have ready two pitchers,
both heated, and turn the mixture back and forth from one
pitcher to another. Serve in hot glasses, having grated nut-
meg over each glassful and drink at once.
Whips
One quart of cream, half a pint of wine, half a pound of
sugar, the whites of three eggs, and the grated rind and juice
of one lemon.
Whips
Take a pint of rather thin cream, add sugar to make it quite
sweet, then a large wine-glass of wine and a tablespoon of the
extract of lemon. Let this stand in a cool place while you are
beating to a stiff froth the whites of three or four eggs. Add
this to the cream, stirring rapidly. Serve in large-sized wine-
glasses.
Innocent Wine
Pick from their stalks fine grapes of either the Concord,
Diana, Delaware, or Muscatel variety. Lay them in a strong
straining cloth in an earthen dish or jar, and bruise or break
them, with a wooden masher preferable. Hang them in the
cloth to drain and squeeze out all the juice, which will carry
with it a portion of the colored tissue lying next the skin and
holding the delicious aroma of the grape. Stir in liquid
sugar to sweeten it. Have especial care that you do not get it
too sweet — that is a fault of inexperienced cooks and of the
untried palate. Melt the sugar thin with fresh cold water. In
adding the water use judgment, the proportion is sometimes a
408 MRS. SEELT'S COOK BOOK
third part of water. Set the mixture on ice and serve ice-cold
in a glass pitcher containing ice.
This is a wholesome and delicious afternoon-tea drink taken
with biscuit slightly sweetened.
Mulled Wine
To a pint of water add a teaspoon of powdered cloves and
cinnamon and set where it will boil. Beat the yolks of three
eggs with a teaspoon of powdered sugar, and as soon as the
water boils turn it on the yolks and sugar. Add a pint of wine
and stir in the beaten whites of the eggs. Serve hot.
Wine Whey
Set on the fire in a porcelain saucepan a pint of milk. When
it boils, pour in as much white wine as will turn it to curds.
Boil it up, let the curds settle, strain off, add a little boiling
water, and sweeten to taste.
^
INDEX
Airing of beds, 19, 20.
Alexandra punch, 402.
AUemande sauce, 207.
Almond —
Blanching almonds, 337.
Cake, 337.
Creams, 381.
Custard, 306.
Pudding, 284.
Salted almonds, 880.
Sandwich, 264.
Ammonia, use of, for cleaning, 40, 43.
Anchovy sandwich, 261.
Angel cake, 338.
Apartment — duties of general servant, 32.
Apollinaris lemonade, 401.
Apples —
Baked, 284.
Boston pudding, 285.
Buttered, 284.
Jelly, 314.
Meringue, 285, 320.
Pie, 3T6.
Sauce, 285.
Shortcake, 300.
Apricot sauce, 301.
Souffle with, 301.
Artichokes —
A ritalienne, 233.
A la Lyonnaise, 232.
Boiled, 232.
Butter sauce with, 233.
Asparagus —
Baked, 234.
Boiled, 66.
Canapes, 235.
Curry of lamb with asparagus tops, 165.
Fried, 235.
Puree of, 91.
Salad, 223.
Sauce, 207.
Soup, 92.
Aspic —
Chicken, 228.
Foie gras, aspic de, 228.
Jelly, 228.
Trout, 230.
Austrian coffee, 397.
Bacon —
Broiling, 69.
Frying, 69, 162.
Baking —
Apples, 284.
Asparagus, 234.
Bananas, 236.
Bass, 102.
Blueflsh, 103.
Bread, 68, 360.
Brook trout, with forcemeat, 116.
Calf s liver, with glazed onions, 161.
Cauliflower, 238.
Cod, 105.
Custard, 68, 291.
Eels with tartare sauce, 123.
Eggs, 267.
Ham, 174.
Pears, 296, 331.
Pork and beans, 173.
Potatoes, 251.
Eed snapper, 109.
Salmon, 110.
Salmon trout, 112.
Sardines, 119.
Shad roe, 114.
Smelts, 120.
Soft-shell clams, 130.
Sweetbreads, 158.
Time-table, 68.
Tomatoes, 259.
Tripe, 151.
Whiteflsh, 122.
Wild goose, 199.
Ballottines —
Legs of fowls, 181.
Squab, 203.
Balls —
Chicken forcemeat, 82.
Codfish, 106.
Creamed cheese, 276.
y^gg, 82.
Fish, frying, 69.
Meat and nut, 156.
Parsnip, 250.
Bananas —
Baked, 236.
Fritters, 236.
409
410
INDEX
Bananas, continued —
Pudding, 306.
Barley meal scones, 370,
Barley negas, making, 394.
Barley soup, 93.
Cream of barley, 92.
Pearl barley, cream of, 93.
Pur6e, 92. "
Barley water, making, 393-394.
Barszcz, making, 94.
Baskets —
Egg, 275.
Olives, 266.
Bass —
Baked, 102.
Palmettes of striped bass, 102.
Batter —
Cakes, 368.
Corn meal, 870.
Eels fried in batter, 122.
Flour batter for marinade, 181.
Pudding, sponge, 298.
Bavarian cream, 307.
Bavaroise —
Chestnuts, bavaroise witb, 306.
Chocolate, 308.
Strawberry, 332.
Vanilla, 308.
Beans —
Baked, 68, 173.
Boiled, 66.
Lima beans, see that title.
Pork and beans, 173.
Soup, 93.
Black bean, 93.
Lima bean puree, 94.
Bearnaise sauce, 207.
Bechamel sauce, 208.
Bedrooms —
Airing, 19, 20.
Chambermaid duties, 19-21, 30.
Cleaning, 19.
Beef—
A la mode, 66, 147.
Bones, devilled, 146.
Braised, 68.
Broth, 76.
Corned beef, see that title.
Fillet of beef—
Baking, 68.
Broiling, 143.
Mushroom sauce with, 147.
Kidney, stewed, 151.
Pie, 145.
Pot au feu, 75.
Roast, 144.
Cuts for roasting, 65.
Potatoes cooked with, 145.
Beef, continued —
Eoast, continued —
Time-table for roasting, 68,
Yorkshire pudding with, 145.
EoU of beef a la Printaniere, 148,
Eump, with dumplings, 146.
Selection of, 65.
Soup, 76.
Beefsteak —
Broiled, 69, 143.
Fried onions with, 144.
Larded, 143.
Stuffed, 144.
Beer, root, 404,
Beets —
Boiling, 66.
Soup, 94.
Belgian hare, roast, 206.
Benares brass, cleaning, 41.
Betsy cake, 339.
Beverages —
Barley negas, 394.
Barley water, 393-394.
Bishop, 394.
Blackberry cordial, 394.
Caudle, 395.
Chocolate syrup, 395.
Cider cup, 397.
Cocktails, see that title.
Coffee, see that title.
Egg, see that title.
Gin, see that title.
Gum syrup, 400.
High ball, 400.
Hot Scotch, 401.
Lemonade, see that title.
Military cup, 39S.
Mint julep, 401-402.
Moselle cup, 399.
Punch, see that title.
Easpberry vinegar, 406.
Ehine wine cup, 399.
Eoot beer, 404.
Rules for making beverages, 393.
Sherry cobbler, 406.
Shrub, see that title.
Stone fence, 406.
Strawberry vinegar, 406.
Tea, see that title.
Tom and Jerry, 407.
Whips, 407.
"Wines, see that title.
Bigarade sauce, 208.
Birds, broiling, 69.
Birds'-nest pudding, 308.
Birthday cake —
Glaze with, 339.
Icing for, 340.
INDEX
411
Birthday cake, continued —
Initials on, making, 340.
Biscuit —
Baking, 68.
Cheese, 373.
Cream, 290.
Egg, 365.
Glace, 308, 326.
Maryland, 364.
Bishop, making, 394.
Bisques —
Clam, 87.
Crab, 89.
Lobster, 91.
Oyster, 87.
Black bean soup, 93.
Black cake for weddings, 341.
Black cotfee, 396.
Black fruit cake, 341.
Black raspberry jam, 387.
Blackberry cordial, 394.
Blanching almonds, 337.
Blanc-mange, chocolate, 288, 311.
Blankets, washing, 43.
Bluefish, baked, 103.
Boiling —
Artichokes, 232,
Brook trout, 115.
Cauliflower, 238.
Chicken and tongue, 186.
Coffee, 67, 396.
Eggs, 270.
Fish, 65.
Ham, see that title.
Hominy, 243.
Macaroni, 246.
Meat, 67.
Mutton, 67, 168, 169.
Onions, 249.
Potatoes, 252.
Eed snapper, 109.
Time-table, 66.
Boned chicken with sauce, 184.
Boned leg of mutton, 171, 197.
Boned turkey, Virginia, 197 ; stuffing, 2S2.
Bones, de\illed, 146.
Bordeaux wine, serving, 64.
Bordelaise sauce, white, 208.
Boston apple pudding, 285.
Boston brown bread, 363.
Bouillon, making, 73.
Court bouillon, 101.
Brains —
Calf brains, see that title.
Mushrooms with, 150.
Braising —
Beef, 68.
Roll of, 148.
Braising, continued —
Lettuce, 243.
Brandied fruit —
Peaches, 386.
Pears, 387.
Plums, 387.
Brandy —
Cocktail, 396,
Sauce, 209.
Brass, Benares, cleaning, 41.
Bread —
Baking, 68, 360.
Biscuits, see that title.
Brown bread, see that title.
Cake, 342,
Corn bread. See that title.
Directions for making bread, 360.
Forcemeat, 198-199, 279.
Indian, 363.
Laplanders, 363.
Mixture for timbale, 198-199.
Muffins, «6e that title.
Oneida rye, 363.
Popovers, see that title.
Pudding, 285-286.
Polls, see that title.
Sauce, 209.
Wafers, see that title.
Yeast, potato, 362.
Breakfast coffee, 397.
Bric-fl-brac, mending, 42,
Bride's cake, 841.
Broiling —
Chicken, 184.
Directions, 69, 143.
FiUet of beef, 143.
Fish, 65.
Lamb's kidneys, 173.
Lobster, 135.
Oysters, 126.
Salmon, 110.
Shad a rAbb6, 113.
Smelts, 120.
Steak, 143.
Time-table, 69.
Tomatoes, 257.
Trout, 116.
Turkey giblets, 198,
Brook trout —
Baked, 116,
Boiled, 116.
Broth —
Beef, 76.
Fish, 88.
Pot au feu, 74-76.
White, 79.
Brown bread —
Boston, 863.
412
INDEX
Brown bread, coniinued —
Steaming, 69.
Brown sauce, 209.
Fried chops with, 164.
Sweetbreads with, 158.
Brunoise soup, 78.
Brushes, cleaning, 12.
Brussels sprouts —
BoiUng, 66.
In cream, 235.
Buckwheat cakes, 369.
St. Louis, 869.
Buffalo corn oysters, 240.
Burgundy wine, serving, 64.
Butler —
Dinner table service, 49-58.
Dress of, 15.
Duties of, 13-15.
Valeting done by, 13, 15.
Wine, served by, 58, 61.
Butter —
Cake, 344.
Drawn, 209.
Keeping, 72.
Sandwiches, butters for, 262.
Sauce, 233.
Butter Scotch, 384.
Buttered apples, 284.
" Buttons," duties of, 17.
Cabbage —
Boiling, 66.
Colonial Dutch sour cabbage, 237.
Salad, 224.
Cold slaw, 224, 225.
White and red cabbage, 224.
Stuffed, 236.
Cabinet pudding, 286.
Caf6 frapp6, 328.
Cakes —
Almond, 337.
■"Angel, 338.
Baking, time-table for, 68.
Batter, 368.
Corn meal, 370.
Betsy, 339.
Birthday, see that iiile.
Black, 341.
Black fruit, 341.
Bread, 842.
Bride's, 841.
Buckwheat, 369.
St. Louis, 369.
Butter, 344.
Chicago loaf, 353.
-> Chocolate loaf, 342.
Cocoanut, 343.
Cakes, continued —
Coffee, 843.
Westphalian, 344.
Cookies, see that title.
Crullers, 846.
Cup, 347.
Darky, 349.
DeUcate, 847.
Doughnuts, 348.
Fig, 348.
Fillings, see that title.
Flannel, 872.
Genoese, 348.
Gingerbread, see thai title.
Gold and silver, 356.
Gold-leaf, 350.
Green mountain boys, 354.
Griddle cakes, see that title.
Hoe, 870.
Icings, see that title.
Imperial, 351.
Jam, 351.
Kids, 351.
Lady, 352.
Lady May fingers, 349.
Lady's fingers, 349.
Layer, 352.
Macaroons, 353.
Maple sugar, 353.
Metropolitan, 874.
New England caraway, 344.
Parsnip, 250.
Plum, 355.
Potato, 252.
- ■ Pound, 355.
Preservation in earthen jars, 3!
Princess, 356.
Eusks, 366.
Eyedrop, 371.
Scones, see that title.
SUver, 356.
Soft molasses, 354.
Spice, 357.
■^ Sponge, see that title.
Sunshine, 359.
Velvet, 366.
Wafers, see that title.
Wedding cake, see that title.
White, 359.
Calf s brains —
A la vinaigrette, 163.
Fried, 162.
Mushroom sauce with, 162.
Calf s-foot jelly, 230.
Calfs head, cooking, 163.
Calf s heart, roasting, 164.
Calfs liver —
Baked with glazed onions, 161.
INDEX
413
Calf s liver, continued —
Fried liver and bacon, 162.
Stewed, 161.
Canap6s —
A la Prince of Wales, 123.
Asparagus, 235.
Chicken, 187.
Crab, 132.
Fish, 123.
Meat, 123.
Scrambled eggs on, 272.
White House, 133.
Candies —
Almonds, salted, 380.
Butter Scotch, 384.
Cocoanut drops, 382.
Cough candy, 384.
Cream candies, see that title.
Dough, 381.
French nougat, 882.
Fudge, see that title.
Glazed fruits, 385.
Hickory nut kisses, 382.
Popcorn, see that title.
Rose leaves, candied, 380.
St. Louis molasses, 384.
Candles on dinner table, 48.
Canned peas, 251.
Cannelons, cream, 373.
Cantaloupe a la Buc, 326.
Canvasback duck, roast, 200.
Capon, roast with truffles, 195.
Caramel —
Chocolate cream caramels, 381.
Custard, 291, 311.
Sugar, caramel, 287.
Caraway cakes. New England, 344.
Cards, use of, at dinners, 51.
Carrots —
A I'Allemande, 237.
Boiling, 66.
Cream sauce with, 238.
Carving for dinners, 48, 54.
Caudle, making, 395.
Cauliflower —
Baked, 238.
Boiled, 66, 238.
Fried, 239.
Parmesan cheese with, 239.
Soup, 94.
Caviar sandwiches, and butter, 262,
Celery —
A la creme, 240.
A la Villeroi, 240.
Boiling, 66.
Cream of celery soup, 96,
Sauce, 210.
Challies, washing, 44.
Chambermaids —
Dress of, 20-21.
Duties of, 19-21, 30, 32.
Chamois skin, cleaning, 45.
Champagne —
Cooling, 64.
Cup, 397.
Decanting, 63.
Punch, 402.
Serving, 58, 59, 64.
Chantilly pudding, 309.
Charlotte a la Parisienne, 810.
Charlotte russe, 310.
Charlotte waflles a la Tortoni, 325.
Chartreuse offish a la Hauraise, 119.
Chaudfroid, serving, 55.
Cheese —
Biscuit, 373.
Creamed cheese, see thai title.
Croquettes, 276.
Gherkin buck, 278.
Golden buck, 278.
Parmesan, see that title.
Pot cheese, 277.
Pudding, 373.
Eamekins, 278.
Salad, 225.
Sandwich, 263.
Koquefort cheese, 264.
Sauce, 210.
Serving at dinner, 55.
Souflle, 301.
Soup, cream, 96.
Straws, 373.
Timbale, 277.
Chef, duties of, 24.
Chestnuts —
Bavaroise, with, 306.
Cream of, 287.
Goose, roast, stuffed with, 199.
Ice cream, 326.
Pudding, 287.
Puree of, 210.
Soup, 95.
Chicago loaf cake, 353.
Chickens and fowls —
A la Marengo, 182.
A la Parisienne, 194.
Aspic of, 228.
Ballottines of legs of fowls, 181.
Bofled, 66, 186.
Boned broiled chicken, 184.
Broiled, 09.
Canap6s, 187.
Creamed, 187.
Cromeskies, 182, 196.
Croquettes, 182.
Curry, 184.
414
INDEX
CMckens and fowls, co7iUnued —
Egg chops, '26S.
Forcemeat of chicken, 82, 125, 280.
Forcemeat for, 282.
Fricassee —
A la Dauphine, 183.
Mushrooms with, 185.
Prairie chicken, 205.
Fried, with cream sauce, 181.
Galantine of, 190.
Gumbo, ISO.
Jellied, 189, 230.
Liver —
Cromeskies, 196.
Descaides, 19C.
Forcemeat, 280.
Marinade, 180.
Pie, 192.
Chicken and rice, 191.
Poulade a la Eoyale, 183.
Prairie chicken, see that title.
Pressed, 190.
Eoasting —
Capon with truffles, 195.
Time for, 68.
Salad, 226.
Sandwich, 264.
Almond and chicken, 264.
Selection of, C5, 66.
Terrapin, 191.
Timbale, 192.
A la Hyde, 194.
Walled, 188.
Chili sauce, 389.
China, mending, 42.
Chocolate —
Bavaroise, 308.
Blanc-mange, 288, 311.
Creams, 381.
Caramel, 381.
Filling and mixture for cake, 342-343.
Ice cream, 327.
Loaf cake, 342.
Pudding, 288, 289.
Souffle, 302.
Syrup, 395.
Chopped chicken sandwich, 264.
Chops —
A la signora, 167.
Broiling, 69.
Egg chops with tomato sauce, 267.
Fried —
Brown sauce with, 164.
Time for frying, 69.
Chowder —
Clam, 87.
Fish, 88.
Cider —
Cup, 397.
Ham boiled in, 175.
Cinnamon sticks ^vith icing, 342.
Clams —
Baked soft-shell clams, 130.
Bisque, 87.
Boiled, 66.
Chowder. 87.
Cocktail, 129.
Croquettes, 130.
Sauce, 210.
Serving at dinner, 51.
Soft clams a la Newburg, 129.
Claret —
Cup, 398.
Decanting, 62.
Serving, 59, 64.
Cleaning —
Bedrooms, 19.
Benares brass, 41.
Brushes, 12.
Challies, washing, 44.
Chamois skin, 45.
Coffee pot, 41.
Coppers, 41.
Cut glass, 41.
Fluid for cleaning cloth, etc., 42.
Furniture, 40.
Iron rust, removing, 45.
Jelly cloths, 23.
Mahogany, 40.
Marble, 41.
Meat, 68.
^Mildew, removing, 45.
Pans, 23.
Polishes, see that title.
Pudding bags, 23.
Silver, 15.
Teapot, 41.
Tinware, 41.
Washing, see that title.
White paint, 40.
Clear icing, 336.
Cloth, cleaning fluid for, 42.
Coachmen, duties of, 26-27.
Cocktails-
Brandy, 395.
Clam, 129.
Gin, see that title.
Manhattan, 395.
Martini, 396.
Ovster, 129.
Whiskey, 396.
Cocoa, cold, 897.
Cocoanut—
Cake, 343.
Custard, 289.
INDEX
415
Cocoanut, continued —
Drops, 382.
Pudding, 289.
Cod and codfish —
A la mode, 106.
A la SeviUe, 104.
Baked, 105.
Baked cod's head, 105.
Balls, 106.
Colonial codfish pie, 106.
Shredded cod, 104.
Coflfee —
Austrian, 397.
Black, 396.
Boiled, 67, 396.
Breakfast, 397.
Cake, 343.
Westphalian, 844.
Flummery, 312.
Ice cream, 327.
Jelly, 314.
Mousse, 327.
Coffee pot, cleaning, 41.
Cold cocoa, 897.
Cold meat, potato salad with, 227.
Cold puddings, etc., 306-335.
Cold slaw, 224, 225.
College girl's fudge, 883.
Colonial receipts —
Black cake, 341.
Codfish pie, 106.
Dutch sour cabbage, 236.
Compotes —
Green currants, 291.
Orange, 330.
Strawberry, iced, 333.
Consomme with vegetables, 80.
Cookies —
Garfield, 845.
Inauguration, 345.
Maple sugar, 354.
Molasses, 345.
Sugar, 345-346.
Cooks —
Duties of, 22-25, 28, 32.
Hints about kitchen work, 23.
Copper utensils, care of, 23,
Coppers, cleaning, 41.
Cordial, blackberry, 394.
Corn —
Buffalo corn oysters, 240.
Fritters, 240.
Soup, 95.
Cream of corn, 97.
Sweet corn, boiling, 67.
Corn-bread. 366-367.
Nantucket, 367.
St. Louis, 367.
Corn meal —
Batter cakes, 370.
Boiling, time for, 67.
Corn-starch croustade, 103.
Corned beef —
Boiling, 66, 149.
Hash, 149.
Cornucopias, 311.
Cottage pudding, 290.
Cough candy, old-fashioned, 384.
Court bouillon, 101.
Crabs —
Bisque, 89.
Canapes, 132,
Farcie, with tomato sauce, 182.
Fried soft-shell crabs, 131.
Gumbo of, 90.
Timbale of, 131.
Cranberry jelly, 385.
A la cereal, 385.
Cream —
Brussels sprouts in, 235,
Maraschino Bavarian, 307.
Cream biscuit, 290.
Cream candies, 382.
Almond, 881.
Chocolate, 381.
Caramel, 381.
Dates, 381.
Walnut, 382.
Cream cannelons, 373.
Cream croquettes, 290,
Cream filling, 290, 247.
Cream layer cake, 347.
Cream of chestnuts, 287.
Cream pie, 376.
Cream puflfs, 290.
Cream salad dressing, 221-222.
Cream sauce, 211, 303.
Carrots with, 238.
Fried chicken with. 181.
Shredded cod with, 104.
Cream scones, 871.
Cream soups —
Barley, 92 ; pearl barley, 93.
Celery, 96.
Cheese, 96.
Onion, 97.
Potato, 97.
Eice, 97.
Spinach, 98.
Tomato, 99.
Cream tapioca, 804.
Creamed cheese —
Balls, 276.
Salad, 225.
Creamed chicken, 187.
Creamed corn beef hash, French, 149.
416
INDEX
Creamed onions, 248.
Creamed oysters, 127.
Creamed pineapple, 331.
Creamed rice pudding, 322.
Creamed shi'iraps, 134.
Baked \vith green peppers, 133.
Creamed soups, see Cream soups.
Cromeskies —
Chicken, 182, 196.
Mutton, 170.
Oyster, 123.
Shad roe, 114.
Croquante oranges, 312.
Croquettes —
Cheese, 2T6.
Chicken, 182.
Clam, 130.
Cream, 290.
Egg, 268.
Frying, 69.
Macaroni, 244.
Mutton, 172.
Oyster, 125, 126.
Potato, 253.
Sweet potato, 253.
Eice, with sauce, 254.
Smelt, 121.
Sweetbread, 159.
Walnut, 179.
Croustades —
Corn-starch, 103.
Hominy, 136.
Oyster, 126.
Crown of pork, 178.
Crullers, 346.
Crumbs, removing from table, 56.
Crust for pies, making, 106, 375.
Crystallizing window glass, 40-41.
Cucumbers —
Pickle, 390.
Pur6e, 154, 211.
Soup, 95.
Spirals, 226.
Stuffed, 241,390.
Cup cake, 347.
Currants —
Green, compote of, 291.
Jelly, 385.
Shrub, 405.
Curry and curried dishes —
Butter for sandwiches, 262.
Chicken, 184.
Eggs, 269.
Lamb, 165.
Lobster, 140.
Oysters, 127.
Sauce, 211.
Soup, 77.
Custards —
Almond, 306.
Baked, 68, 291.
Caramel, 291, 321-312.
Cocoanut, 2S9.
Proportion of ingredients, 71.
Sauce, 212.
Snow eggs, 324.
Souffle, 303.
Cut glass, cleaning, 41.
Cutlets —
Lobster, 140.
Salmon, 110.
Veal, see that title.
Darky cakes, 349.
Dates, cream, 381.
Decanting wines, 61.
Decorations for dinner table, 48.
Delicate cake, 347.
Demiglaze sauce, 213.
Descaides, making, 196.
Dessert —
Fritters, 292.
Log cabin, 374.
Table service, 56.
[See also Iced desserts. Puddings, and names
of dishes.]
Devilled dishes —
Eggs, 268.
Ham, sauce for, 213.
Lamb's kidneys, 173.
Lobster, with sauce, 140.
Mutton, 168.
Roast beef bones, 146.
Scallops, 134.
Tomatoes, 258.
Turkey legs, 197.
Dice, turnip, 260.
Dining-room suitable for dinner party, 47.
Dinner-giving, table service, etc., 46-59.
Carving, 48, 54.
Courses, serving, 51-56.
Crumbs, removing from table, 56.
Decorations for table, 48.
Dessert service, 56.
Dining-room, plan of, 47.
French service, 55.
Guests, arrangement, etc., 46, 47, 51.
Invitations, 46.
Large and small dinners, service for, 57.
Six people, 53, 60.
Ten people and more than ten, 58, 60-61.
Menus for, 60-61 .
Napkins, folding, 50.
Plates, placing, etc., 52, 55.
Quick service, 54.
Selecting dishes for dinner, 46, 58.
INDEX
417
Dinner-giving, continued —
Serving-table in dining-room, 47, 48, 52.
Setting the table, 50.
Silent service, 46.
Table, sliape of, 46.
"Wines, see that title.
[See also names of dishes, etc., served.]
Dish-washing, 23, 24.
Don'ts for employers and servants, 83-36.
Doughnuts, 848.
Frying, 69.
Drawn butter, 209.
Drinks, see Beverages.
Dropped eggs, see Poached eggs.
Dubarry soup, 83.
Duck —
Canvasback, 200.
Fillets of ducklings, 201.
Forcemeat for, 282.
Mock duck, 179.
Eoast, 68.
Selmi of, 201.
Selection of, 66.
Steamed, with turnip, 200.
Dumplings —
Eump of beef with, 146.
Veal potpie with, 152-153.
Dutch puflfet, 866.
Dutch sour cabbage, 237.
Earthen jars for storing supplies, 39, 379.
Eels —
Baked, with Tartare sauce, 123.
Fried in batter, 122.
Eggplant —
Fried, 242.
Stufted, 242.
Eggs-
A la Suisse, 269.
Baked, 267.
Balls, 82.
Baskets, 275.
Baskets of olives, 266.
Beverages —
Flip, 399.
Lemonade, 899.
Nog, 400.
Wine, 400.
Biscuit, 365.
Boiling, 67, 270.
Chops, 267.
Croquettes, 268.
Curried, 269.
Devilled, 268.
Dropped, see Poached eggs.
En Cocotte, 274.
En Marinade, 275.
Forcemeat of hard-boiled eggs, 281.
2e
Eggs, continued —
Marmalade, 274.
Nested, see that title.
Omelettes, see that title.
Pickled, 276.
Poached, see that title.
Sauce, 212.
Scrambled, see that title.
Soup, 95.
Stuffed, 275.
Timbale, 269.
Employers —
Don'ts for employers, 83.
Indorsement of manager of household, 6.
Relations of employers and servants, 3-7.
[See also Servants.]
English muffins, 364.
Entrees at dinners, 54.
Epsom salts — making window glass opaque,
40-41.
Espagnole sauce, 212.
Fried tripe with, 151.
Fanchonette, 313.
Fabrics, cleaning fluid for, 42.
Farcie —
Crab, with tomato sauce, 132.
Tomato, 258.
Farinaceous foods, see names of foods.
Felt, cleaning fluid for, 42.
Fig —
Cake, 348.
Ice-cream, 835.
Pudding, 292.
Fillets —
Beef, see that title.
Ducklings, 201.
Grouse, 205.
Mutton, 166.
Partridge, 204.
Porapano a la duchesse, 107.
Salmon h la V6nitienne, 111.
Sandwiches of sole, lobster, or salmon, 265.
Sole, see that title.
Fillings —
Chocolate filHng and mixture, 342-343.
Cream, 290, 347.
Forcemeat, see that title.
Maple sugar cake, 854.
Sandwiches, filling for, 261.
Finger bowls at dinner, 56.
Fish —
Baking, 68,
Balls, 69.
Boiling, 65, 6T,
Broiling, 65, 69.
Broth, 88.
Canap6s, 123.
418
INDEX
Fish, continued —
Chartreuse of fish a la Haiiraise, 119.
Chowder, SS.
Court bouillon, 101.
Forcemeat of, 101.
Forcemeat for, 102.
Fresh-water fish, see that title.
Frying, 69.
Maigre fish pie, 107.
Martinot sauce for, 215.
Selection of, 65.
Serving at dinner, 53.
[See also names offish.]
Flannel cakes, 372.
Flannels —
Storing, 43.
"Washing, 43.
Flemish soup, 78.
Floor polish, 40.
Flour —
Batter for marinade, 181.
Sweet, fritters of, 293.
Wheat flour griddle cakes, 369.
Flowers on dinner table, 4S.
Fluid for cleaning cloth, etc., 42.
Fondue of Parmesan cheese, 277.
Fool, making, 313.
Gooseberry fool, 313.
Footmen —
Dinner table service, 49-53.
Dress of, 16.
Duties of, 14, 15-17, 19.
Useful man, duties of, 17, 29, 30, 31.
Valeting done by, 13, 16.
Forcemeat —
A la Constantinople, 282.
Baked brook trout with, 116.
Beefsteak, stuffed, 144.
Bread, 198-199, 279.
Cabbage, stuflfed, 236.
Chicken, 82, 125, 280.
Chicken, forcemeat for, 282.
Chicken timbale, 193.
Duck, 282.
Egg balls, 82.
Fish, 101.
Fish, forcemeat for, 102.
Goose, 282.
Hard-boiled egg, 281.
Lobster, for porapano, 108.
Mushroom, 247, 281.
Onions, stuflfed, 249.
Peppers, tomato stuffing for, 251.
Ked snapper, for, 109.
Tomato farcie, 258.
Tomatoes, stuflfed, 257.
Truffles, 281.
Teal, for fish, 102.
Forcemeat, continued —
Virginia boned turkey, 282.
Forks, arrangement on dinner table, 50.
Fowls, see Chickens.
French dinner service, 55.
French dishes —
Creamed corned beef hash, 149.
Mock turtle soup, S3.
Nougat, 382.
Pickle, 391.
Popovers, 364.
Pot au feu, 74-76.
Rolls, 361.
Salad dressing, 222.
Fresh-water fish —
Court bouillon, 101.
Earthy taste, removing, 65.
Selection of, 65.
Fricassee —
A la Dauphine, 1S3.
Chicken, see thai title.
Oyster, 124.
Veal, 152.
Fritters —
Banana, 236.
Corn, 240.
Dessert, 292.
Frying, 69.
Marrow, 293.
Rice, 255.
Scallop, 134.
Strawberry, 293.
Sweet flour, 293.
Fromage, lemon, 317.
Frozen dishes, see Iced desserts.
Fruit-
cake, black, 341.
Cottage pudding with, 290.
Glazed, 3S5.
Pies, preparing fruit for, 376.
Punch, 402.
Serving at dinner, 56.
[See also names of fruits.]
Frying —
Asparagus, 235.
Calf s brains, 162.
Calfs liver and bacon, 162.
Cauliflower, 239.
Chicken with cream sauce, 181.
Chops, see that title.
Eels in batter, 122.
Egg plant, 242.
Lima beans, 243.
Mushrooms with sauce, 24T.
Onions with beefsteak, 144.
Ox tails, 149.
Oysters, 124.
Parsley, 249.
INDEX
419
Frying', continued —
"scallops, 184.
Smelts u la Parisienne, 120,
Soft-shell crabs, 131.
Time-table for, 69.
Tomatoes, 257.
Tripe with Espagnole sauce, 151.
Trout, mountain style, 116.
"White-bait, 122.
Fudge, making, 3S3.
College girl's fudge, 383.
Maple sugar fudge, 3S3.
Furnace man, duties of, 81.
Furniture polish, 40.
Galantine of chicken, 190.
Game —
Puree of, 84.
Selection of, 65.
Serving at dinner, 55.
\_See also names of game.]
Garfield cookies, 345.
Garlic, keeping, 39.
Geese, see Goose.
Gems, baking, 68.
General servant, duties of, 82.
Genoese cakes, 348.
German potato cakes, 252.
Gherkin buck, 278.
Giblets, boiled turkey, 198.
Gin —
Cocktail —
Holland gin, 395.
Tom gin, 396.
Eickey, 400.
Gingerbread —
Snaps, ginger, 350.
Soft, 350.
Sponge, 851.
Glac6 biscuit, 308, 326.
Glass —
Cut glass, cleaning, 41.
Dinner table decoration, 49.
Opaque, making window glass opaque, 40.
Glasses, arrangement on dinner table, 50.
Glaze, making, 213.
Birthday cake, 839-340.
Demiglaze sauce, 213.
Fruits, 385.
Onions, 161, 248.
Waffles, 325.
Gold and silver cake, 356.
Gold leaf cakes, 350.
Gold, pockets of, 253.
Golden buck, 278.
Goose —
Baked wild goose, 109.
Forcemeat, 282.
Goose, continued —
Indiana mock goose, 178.
Roast, stuffed with chestnuts, 199.
Selection, 66.
Gooseberry fool, 313.
Graham pudding, 293.
Grandmother's fruit en chemise or Perl6, 828.
Green currants, compote of, 201.
Green mountain boys, 354.
Green peppers, creamed shrimps baked with,
183.
Green tomato pickle, 892.
Green turtle soup, 85.
Griddle cakes —
Eice, 371.
Wheat flour, 869.
Groceries, storing, 38-39.
Grouse —
Fillet of, 205.
Selection of, 66.
Guests at dinner, choice of, seating, etc., 46, 47,
51.
Gum syrup, 400.
Gumbo —
Chicken, 180.
Crab, 90.
-f ►.•
Half-pint measure, 8ut)stitute for, Yo.
Halibut salad with cucu5it>er sp^^is, 226.
Ham — , — ,
A la Chamberlin, 175. • ' ..
Baked, with hot sauc#5 174. >
Boiled, 174.
Cider, ham boiled ip, 175.
Devilled, sauce for, 213-. %
Egg chops, 267. ^ \
In pot au feu, 75. »
Mossse, 176. "* r \ ^
Virginia, 176. V ^
Handkerchiefs, ironing, 2^. ' ^
Hard-boiled eggs, forceme&t of, 281.
Hard sauce, 293. « » ^
Hare, Belgian, roast, 206.-.. ,
Haricot of lamb, 164. -^ *J
Hash —
French cr.pamed cornedl)eef, 149. x
Pepper, 389. v )
Heart, roasted, 164.
Herb sauce, 113.
Hickory nut kisses, 382. ''
High ball, 400. •*■
Hock, decanting, 63.
Hoe cakes, 370.
Holland gin cocktail, 395.
Hollandaise — "'
Sauce, 213. • ^
Soup, 79.
420
INDEX
Hominj' —
Boiled, 6T, 243.
Croustade, 136.
Hors d'ceuvres, serving at dinner, 62.
Horseradish —
Sandwiches, 262,
Sauce, 177.
Horses— duties of coachmen and stablemen,
26-27.
Hot puddings, 284-305.
Hot Scotch, 401.
Hotch potch, Scotch, 172.
Hot water —
Pan of, value of, in cooking, 71.
Sponge cake, 358.
Housekeeper, duties of, 8-11.
Ice-cream —
Chestnut, 326.
Chocolate, 327.
Coflfee, 327.
Maple, 329.
Plum pudding ice-cream, 832.
Tutti frutti, 334.
Vanilla, 335.
"Walnut and fig, 335.
Iced desserts —
Cafe frappe, 328.
Coflfee mousse, 327.
Compote of strawberries, 333.
Frozen jardiniere, 328.
Frozen oranges, 330.
Grandmother's fruit en chemise or Perl6, 328.
Lalla Rookh, 329.
Eice pudding, 323.
Sherbet, see that title.
Wined peaches, 330.
Ices —
Orange, 329.
Raspberry, 332.
Strawberry, 333.
Icings, 386.
Birthday cake icing and initials, 340.
Cinnamon sticks, icing for, 342.
Clear icing, 336.
Pastry bag, using, 836.
Royal icing, 336.
Imperial cake, 351.
Inauguration cookies, 845.
Indian bread, 363.
Indian meal pudding —
Baked, 294.
Boiled, 294.
Indian sandwiches, 264.
Indiana mock goose, 178.
Ingredients —
Measures and proportions, 70-71.
Mixing, 71.
Innocent wine, 407,
Invitations for dinner parties, 46.
Irish stew, making, 171.
Iron rust, removing, 45.
Ironing handkerchiefs, 22.
Italienne sauce, 214.
Jam, see Preserves.
Jam cake, 851.
Jardiniere —
Frozen, 828.
Sweetbread, 158.
Jelly -
k la Mac6doine, 314. ^
Apple, 814.
Aspic, 228.
Calf s foot, 280,
Chicken, 189, 230.
Cotfee, 814.
Cranberry, 885.
A la Cereal, 385.
Currant, 885.
Lemon, 815.
Whipped, 315.
Orange, 315.
Rhubarb, 388.
Wine, 315-316.
Jelly cloths, cleaning, 23,
Jewish dishes —
Almond pudding, 284,
Descaides, 196,
Egg marmalade, 274.
Lamplich, 294,
Macrotes, 375.
Orange compote, 330.
Ramekins, 278.
Julep, mint, 401-402.
Julienne soup, 79.
Kale sprouts with corned beef, 149.
Kidney —
Beef kidney, stewed, 151.
Lamb's kidneys —
Broiled, 173.
Devilled, 173.
Veal kidney pie, 160.
Kids, making, 351.
Kitchen maid, duties of, 25.
Knives, arrangement on dinner table, 50.
Knuckle of veal, with rice, 156,
Lady cake, 352.
Lady May fingers, 849.
Lady Washington pudding, 316.
Lady's fingers, 349.
Lady's maid —
Duties of, 11-18,
Sewing room for, 4, 13.
LaUa Rookh, 829.
INDEX
421
Lamb —
Curry of lamb with asparagus tops, 165.
Haricot of, 164.
Hind quarter of spring lamb, cooking, 165.
Kidney, see that title.
Boasting, 68.
Selection, of 65.
Lamplich, making, 294.
Laplanders, making, 363.
Larded steak, 143.
Laundress, duties of, 21-22, 31-32.
Layer cake, 352.
Chocolate filUng for, 342-343.
C^ream, 347.
Leg of mutton —
Boiled, 168, 169.
Boned, 171.
Eoast, 166 ; cold, 170.
Lemon —
Fromage, 317.
Jelly, 315.
Whipped, 315,
Meringue, 321.
Pie, 376-377.
Pudding, 295.
Sauce, 214.
Sherbet, 329.
Shrub, 405.
Souffle, 302.
Lemonade, 401.
Apollinaris, 401.
Egg, 399.
Soda, 401.
Lettuce —
Braised, 243.
Sandwich, 265,
Lima beans —
Boiled, 66.
Fried, 243.
Puree of, 94.
Linen —
Care of, in large establishments, 10-11, 15.
Mildew, removing, 45.
Washing, 21-22.
Liver —
Broiling, 69.
Calf's liver, see that title.
Chicken, see that title.
Timbale of turkey liver with bread mixture,
198.
Loaf-
Chicago, 853.
Chocolate cake, 342.
Veal, 155.
Lobster —
A la Brooklyn, 136.
A la Newburg, 138-139.
A la Portland, 137.
Lobster, continued —
Bisque, 91.
Broiled, 135.
Curry, 140.
Cutlets, 140.
Devilled, with sauce, 140.
Fillets, sandwich of, 265.
Forcemeat for pompano, 108.
Salad, 226.
Sauces, see that title.
Stewed, 135.
Timbale, 139.
A la Maryland, 137.
Log cabin dessert, 374.
Loin of mutton dressed like venison, 171.
London fashion of veal cutlets, 154.
Luncheons, serving, 59.
Lyonnaise sauce, 215.
Macaroni —
A ritalienne, 245.
A la Eeine, 244.
A la Solferino, 245.
Boiled, 245.
Croquettes, 244.
Oyster, 245.
Macaroons, making, 353.
Mackerel, salt, soaking and cooking, 107.
Macrotes, Jewish recipe, 375.
Madeira sauce, 215.
Madeira wine, serving, 58, 64.
Maids, see Lady's maid, Parlor maid, etc.
Maigre —
Fish pie, 107.
Tomato soup, 100.
Maitre d'Hotel sauce, 215.
Manhattan cocktail, 395.
Maple ice cream, 329.
Maple sugar —
Cake, 353.
Cookies, 354.
Fudge, 3S3.
Maraschino Bavarian cream, 307.
Marble, cleaning, 41.
Marinade of chicken, 180.
Marmalade, egg, 274.
Marrow —
Fritters, 293.
Pudding, 295.
Martini cocktail, 396.
Martinot sauce, 215.
Maryland biscuit, 364.
Maryland sauce, 216.
Mashed turnip, 259.
Matrimony, 317.
Mayonnaise —
Salad dressing, 222, 223.
Sandwich, 265.
422
INDEX
Measures, table of, 70,
Meat —
BaUs, 156.
Boiling, rules for, 67.
Broiling, rules for, 69.
Canapes, 123.
Carving, 4S, 54.
Cleaning, 68.
Cold meat and potato salad, 227.
Salt meat, boUing, 68.
Selection of, 65.
Serving at dinner, 54.
Melons, serving at dinner, 51, 52.
Melrose pudding, 318.
Mending —
Bric-a-brac, 42.
China, 42.
Menus for dinners, 60-61.
Menservants —
Duties of second and useful man, 16, 17,
30, 31.
{See also Butler, Footman, etc.]
Meringues, making, 319.
Apple, 285, 320.
Boiled meringue shells, 321.
Lemon, 321.
Strawberrj', 321.
Metropolitan cake, 374.
Mexican punch, 403.
Mildew, removing, 45,
Military cup, 398.
Milk —
Keeping, 72.
Punch, 403.
Mince meat, keeping, 379.
Mince pie, 37S,
Mint julep, 401-402.
Mint sauce, 216.
Mixing ingredients, directions for, 71.
Mock duck, 179.
Mock goose, Indiana, 178.
Mock turtle soup, 80.
Chicken balls ^vith, 82.
Egg balls with, 82.
French, 83.
Molasses —
Cake, soft, 354.
Candy, St. Louis, 3S4.
Cookies, 345.
Moselle cup, 899.
Mousse —
Coflfee, 327.
Ham, 176.
Muffins —
Baking, 68.
English, 364.
Philadelphia, 365.
Eaised, 363.
Mulled wine, 408.
Mulligatawny soup, 84.
Mushrooms —
A la Bindley, 247.
Brains with, 150.
Forcemeat of, 281.
Fricassee of chicken with, 185.
Fried, \vith sauce, 247.
Poached eggs with, 270.
Puree of, with sole fillet, 118.
Sauce, 148.
Boned broiled chicken with, 184.
Calf's brains with, 162.
Fillet of beef ^vith, 147.
Scrambled eggs with, 272.
Soup, 96.
Stewed, 246.
Stuffed, 246.
Tomato toast with, 259.
Tomatoes with, 259.
Mussel sauce, 216.
Mutton —
Boiled, 67, 168, 169.
Cromeskies, 170.
Croquettes, 172.
Devilled, 468.
Fillets, 166.
Leg of mutton, see that title.
Loin of, dressed like venison, 171.
Pilau, 169.
Eoast, 68, 166. j^
Breast, 166. *
Leg, 166 ; cold, 170.
Saddle, 167.
Selection of, 65.
Soup, 77.
Stew, 168.
Nantucket corn bread, 367.
Napkins, folding, for dinner, 50.
Nesselrode pudding, 318.
Nested eggs, 274.
Spinach nest, 268.
New England caraway cakes, 344.
New England pandowdy, 295.
Normande, sole, vnih sauce, 117.
Nougat, French, 382.
Nut and meat baUs, 156.
Oatmeal —
Making, 248.
Eolled, boiUng, 67.
Soup, 99.
Wafers, 354, 371.
Oil pickle, 391.
Okra, stewed, with tomato sauce, 248.
Old-fashioned Boston apple pudding, 285.
Old-fashioned cough candy, 384.
INDEX
423
Olives —
Baskets of, 266.
Sandwch filling, 262.
Omelettes —
Oyster, 2T3.
Plain, 272.
Rum, 299.
Spanish, 273.
Tomato, 274.
Oneida rye bread, 863.
Oneida strawberry shortcake, 300.
Onions —
Boiled, 67, 249.
Creamed, 248.
Cream of onion soup, 97.
Fried onions with beefsteak, 144.
Glazed, 161, 248.
Keeping, 39.
Stuffed, 249.
Opaque — making window glass opaque, 40.
Oranges —
Compote of, 330.
Croquante of, 312.
Frozen, 330.
Ice, 329.
JeUy, 315.
Pie, 377.
Sherbet, 330.
Ornaments for dinner table, 48.
Ox brains, mushrooms with, 150.
Ox tail —
Fried, 149.
Soup, 77.
Oysters —
A la Lincoln, 128.
Bisque, 87.
Boiled, 67.
Broiled, 125.
Buffalo corn, 240.
Cocktail, 129.
Creamed, 127.
Cromeskies, 128.
Croquettes, 125-126.
Croustades, 126.
Curried, 127.
Fricassee of, 124.
Fried, 124.
Macaroni, 245.
Omelette, 273.
Patties, 127.
Pickled, 129.
Pigs in blankets, 127.
Roast turkey with, 196.
Salad, 227.
Scalloped, 124.
Serving at dinner, 51.
Stewed a la Baltimore, 86.
Stuffed, 125.
Page, duties of, 17.
Paint, white, cleaning, 40.
Palmettes of striped bass, 102.
Pandowdy, New England, 295.
Pans —
Cleaning, 23.
Porcelain-lined, use of, 72.
Parker house rolls, 362.
Parlor maid, duties of, 15, 18-19, 29.
Parmesan cheese —
Cauliflower with, 239.
Fondue of, 277.
Parsley, fried, 249.
Parsnips —
Balls, 250.
Boiling, 67.
Cakes, 250.
Partridges —
A la Malaga, 204.
FiUets of, 204.
A la Jardiniere, 204.
Selection of, 66.
Pastry —
Log cabin dessert, 374.
Macrotes, 375.
Pie, 106, 375.
Puffs and puff paste, see those titles.
Ramekins, 374.
Roulade, 374.
Surprise, 375.
Pastry bag, using, 336.
Patties —
Baking, 68.
Oyster, 127.
Sweetbread, 159.
Pay table from one day to one month, i, ii.
Peaches —
Brandied, 336.
Shortcake, 300.
Spiced, 387.
Tapioca, 304.
Wined, 330.
Pearl barley, cream of, 93.
Pears —
Baked, 296, 331.
Brandied, 387.
Spiced, 387.
Peas —
Boiled, 67.
Canned, 251.
Scrambled eggs with, 272.
Split pea soup, 98.
Stewed, 203, 250.
Pennsylvania quinces, 297.
Peppers —
Creamed shrimps with, 133.
Hash, 3S9.
Stuffed, 251.
424
INDEX
Pheasants, selection of, 66.
Philadelphia muffins, 365.
Pickles and pickled dishes —
Cucumber, 390.
Eggs, pickled, 276.
French, 391.
Green tomato, 392.
Oil, 391.
03'sters, pickled, 129.
Yeal, pickled, 156.
Pies —
Apple, 3T6.
Baking, 68.
Beef, 145.
Chicken, 192.
Chicken and rice, 191.
Colonial codfish, 106.
Cream, 3T6.
Lemon, 376-37T.
Maigre fish, 107.
Mince, 378.
Pastry, 106, 375.
Pigeon, 203.
Potato, 378.
Pumpkin, 378.
Yeal kidney, 160.
Veal potpie with dumplings, 152.
Pig-
Roast, 177.
Sucking pig a la Eusse, 177.
Pigeon —
Pie, 203.
Potted, boiling, 67.
Pigs in blankets, 127.
Pilau, mutton, 169.
Pineapple —
Creamed, 331.
Salad, 227.
Syllabub, 331.
Plain apple meringue, 285.
Plain layer cake, chocolate filling for, 342-343,
Plain omelette, 272.
Planked shad, 113.
Plates —
Placing and removing at dinner, 52, 55.
Salad, plates for, 56.
Plaw, making, 155.
Plombureaux cafe, 328.
Plover, selection of, 66.
Plum cake, 355.
Plum pudding, 297.
Ice-cream, 332.
Plums, brandied, 38T.
Poached eggs, 269.
Directions, 270.
Mushrooms with, 270.
Pockets of gold, 253.
Polishes —
Floor, 40.
Furniture, 40.
Pompano —
Fillets a la Duchesse, 107.
Stuffed with lobster, 108.
Pompton puffs, 366.
Popcorn —
Candied, 384.
Sugared, 384.
Popovers —
French, 364.
Simple, 364.
Porcelain-lined pans, use of, 72.
Pork —
Crown of, 178.
Indiana mock goose, 178.
Mock duck, 179.
Roasting, 68, 178.
Selection of, 65.
Pork and beans, baked, 173.
Port —
Decanting, 62, 63.
Serving, 64.
Porto Rico -witches, 322.
Pot au feu, making, 74-76.
Pot cheese, 277.
Potatoes —
Baking, 68, 251-252.
Boiling, 67, 251.
Cream of potato soup, 97.
Cakes, German, 252.
Croquettes, 253.
Sweet potato, 253.
Frjing, 69.
Pie, 378.
Pockets of gold, 253.
Puree of, 217.
Ribbons, 253.
Roasting, 68 ; \\ith beef, 145.
Salad, 227.
Stewed, 252.
Sweet potatoes, see that title.
Yeast, 362.
Potpie, veal, with dumplings, 152.
Poulade a la Roj'ale, 183.
Poultry —
Forcemeat a la Constantinople,
Selection of, 65.
[See also Chickens, etc.]
Pound cake, 355.
Prairie chicken —
Fricassee, 205.
Roasted, 205.
Preserves —
Apple, 386.
Brandied fruit, see that title.
Raspberry, see that title.
INDEX
425
Preserves, continued —
Spiced fruit, see that title.
Strawberry, 388.
Wintergreen, 389.
Pressed chicken, 190.
Pressing ribbons, 45.
Prince of Wales —
Canapes ix la, 123.
Sauce, 217.
Princess cakes, 356.
Princess sauce, 217.
Proportions, table of, 70-71.
Prune —
Pudding, 297.
Souffle, 302.
Puddings —
A la Francaise, 322.
Almond, 284.
Baking, 68.
Banana, 306.
Bavaroise, see that title.
Birds' nest, 308.
Boston apple, 285.
Bread, 285-286.
Cabinet, 286.
Cantaloupe h la Buc, 326.
Chantilly, 309.
Cheese, 373.
Chestnut, 287.
Chocolate, see that title.
Cocoanut, 289.
Coflfee flummery, 312.
Cold, 306-335.
Cornucopias, 311.
Cottage, 290.
Cream of chestnuts, 287.
Custards, see that title.
Fanchonette, 313.
Fig, 292.
Gooseberrj' fool, 313.
Graham, 293.
Hot, 284-305.
Iced desserts, see that title.
Indian meal, see that title.
Lady Washington, 316.
Lemon, 295.
Marrow, 295.
Melrose. 818.
Meringues, see that title.
Nesselrode, 318.
New England pandowdy, 295.
Oranges, croquante of, 312,
Plum, 297.
Ice-cream, 332.
Porto Rico witches, 822.
Prune, 297.
Raised rum baba, 297.
Rice, see that title.
Puddings, continued — •
Savarin a la creme, 824.
Shortcake, see that title.
Snow, 324.
Sponge, see that title.
Steaming, 69.
Suet, 303.
Tapioca, 804.
Virginia, 305.
Yorkshire, 145.
Pudding bags, cleaning, 23.
Puff paste, making, 372.
MetropoUtan cake, 374.
Ramekins, 874,
Roulade pastry, 374.
Surprise pastry, 375.
Puffs, cream, 290.
Dutch puffet, 366.
Lamplich, 294.
Pompton, 365.
Pumpkin pie, 378.
Punch —
Alexandra, 402.
Champagne, 402.
Frozen, serving at dinner, 55.
Fruit, 402.
Mexican, 403.
Milk, 403.
Roman, 332, 403.
Strawberry, 334.
Whiskey, 404.
Purees —
Asparagus, 91.
Barley, 92.
Chestnut, 210.
Cucumber, 154, 211.
Game, 84.
Lima beans, 94.
Mushroom, -svith sole fillet, 118,
Potato, 217.
Spinach, 218.
Quail —
A la Royale, 202.
Roast, 202.
Selecting, 66.
Stewed peas with, 203.
Quinces, Pennsylvania, 297.
Raised muffins, 363.
Raised rum baba, 297.
Ramekins —
Making, 278.
Pastry, 374.
Rarebit —
Swiss, 279.
Welsh, 278-279.
426
INDEX
Easpberry —
Ice, 332.
Preserve —
Black, 38T.
Ked, 388.
Shortcake, 300.
Shrub, 405.
Vinegar, 406.
Ked cabbage salad, 224.
Eed raspberry jam, 388.
Eed raspberry skortcake, 300.
Eed snapper —
Baked, 109.
Boiled, 109.
Eeform syllabub, 326.
Ehine wine cup, 399.
Ehubarb —
Cooking, 388.
JeUy, 388.
Eibbons, potato, 253.
Kibbons, pressing, 45,
Eibs of beef, cuts for roasting, 65.
Eice —
Boiling, 6T.
Chicken and rice pie, 191.
Creana of rice soup, 97.
Croquettes with sauce, 254.
Fritters, 255.
Griddle cakes, 371.
Knuckle of veal with, 156.
Pudding, 322.
Creamed, 322.
Iced rice pudding, 323.
Timbale, 322.
Spanish, 255.
Steaming, 69.
Eice water for washing challies, 44.
Eoasting, rules for, 68, 144.
Beef, see that title,
Belgian hare, 206.
Calfs heart, 164.
Canvasback duck, 200.
Capon with truffles, 195.
Chicken, see that title.
Goose, stuflFed with chestnuts, 199.
Mutton, see that title.
Pig, 177.
Pork, 178.
Prairie chicken, 205.
Quail, 202.
Saddle of venison, 206.
Shad with sauce, 114.
Snipe or woodcock, 205.
Time-table, 68.
Turkey with oysters, 196.
Eoe, see Shad.
Eoll of beef a la Printani^re, 148.
KoUs, making, 362.
EoUs, continued —
Baking, 68.
French, 361.
Parker House, 362.
Eoman punch, 332, 403.
Eoot beer, 404.
Eoquefort cheese sandwich, 264.
Eose leaves, candied, 380.
Eoulade pastry, 374.
Eound table for dinner party, 47.
Eoyal icing, 336.
Eum baba, raised, 297.
Eum omelette, 299.
Eump of beef with dumplings, 146.
Eusks, making, 366.
Eussian salad, 228.
Eust, removing, 44.
Eye —
Bread, Oneida, 363.
t)rop cakes, 371.
Saddle of mutton, roast, 167.
Saddle of venison, roast, 206.
St. Louis buckwheat cakes, 369.
St. Louis corn bread, 367.
St. Louis molasses candy, 384.
Salad dressings —
Cream, 221-222.
French, 222.
Mayonnaise, 222, 223.
Union Club, 223.
Salads —
Asparagus, 223.
Cabbage, see that title.
Cheese, 225.
Cheese croquettes with, 276.
Chicken, 226,
Cold slaw, 224, 225.
Creamed cheese, 225.
Creamed cheese balls with, 276.
Dressings, see Salad dressings.
Halibut, with cucumber spirals, 1
Lobster, 226.
Oyster, 227.
Pineapple, 227.
Plates for, 56.
Potato, 227.
Eussian, 228.
Serving at dinner, 56.
Salmi of duck, 201.
Salmon —
Baked, 110, 112.
Broiled, 110.
Cutlets, 110.
Fillets a la V6nitienne, 111.
Mousse a la Martinot, 111.
Sandwich, 265.
Trout, baked, 112.
INDEX
427
Salt fish —
Mackerel, soaking and cooking, 107.
Soaking, 65.
Salt meats, boiling, 68.
Salted almonds, 380.
Sandwiches —
A la Victoria, 266.
Almond, 264.
Anchovy, 261.
Butters for, 262,
Caviar, 262, 263.
Cheese, see that title.
Chicken, see that title.
Directions for making, 261.
Fillets of sole, lobster, and salmon, 265.
Fillings for, 261.
Horseradish, 262.
Indian, 264.
Lettuce and mayonnaise, 265.
Salmon, 265.
Sardine, 266.
Saratoga soup, 99.
Sardines —
Baked, 119.
Sandwiches, 266,
Sauces —
Allemande, 207,
Apricot, 301.
Souffl6 with, 301.
Asparagus, 207,
Baked ham with hot sauce, 174.
B^arnaise, 207.
Bechamel, 208.
Bigarade, 208.
Bread, 209.
Brandy, 209.
Brown sauce, see that title.
Butter, 233,
Caramel, 311-312.
Celery, 210.
Cheese, 210.
Chili, 389.
Chops a la signora, 167.
Clam, 210.
Crab farcie, 132.
Crab timbale, 131.
Cream sauce, see that title.
Cucumbers, stuffed, 241-242.
Curry, 211.
Custard, 212,
Demiglaze, 218,
Devilled ham, 213,
Drawn butter, 209.
'Egs, 212.
Espagnole, 151, 212.
Glaze, making, 213.
Hard, 293,
Herb, 113.
Sauces, continued —
HoUandaise, 213.
Horseradish, 177,
Italienne, 214.
Jardiniere, 158.
Lemon, 214,
Lobster, 214,
Lobster, sauces for —
A la Brooklyn. 136.
Broiled lobster, 135.
Curry, 140,
Devilled, 140-141.
Timbale u la Maryland, 137.
Lyonnaise, 215.
Madeira, 215.
Maitre d'hotel, 215,
Marrow pudding, 295.
Martinot, 215.
Maryland, 216.
Mint, 216.
Mushroom, see that title.
Mussel, 216.
Oyster croquettes, 125.
Poulade a la Eoyale, 183,
Prince of Wales, 217,
Princess, 217,
Eice croquettes, 254.
Boast saddle of venison, 206.
Shad, 115.
Shrimp, 217.
Sole Normande, 117-118.
Spanish, 218.
Sponge pudding, 298.
Supreme, 219,
Sweetbread croquettes, 159.
Tartare, 123, 219.
Tomato, see that title.
Tongue timbale, 150.
Velout6, 220,
V^nitienne, 220.
Vinaigrette, 220.
White, 221.
White Bordelaise, 208.
Wine, 221.
Yellow, 221.
Savarin a la cr^me, 324.
Savories, serving at dinner, 55,
Savory butters for sandwiches, 262.
Scales, necessity of, in cooking, 72.
Scalloped dishes —
Baking, 68,
Oysters, 124,
Sweetbreads, 159.
Turkey, 197.
Scallops —
Devilled, 184.
Fried, 134,
Fritters, 184.
428
INDEX
Scones —
Barley meal, 370.
Cream, 371.
Scotch hotch potch, 172.
Scotch whiskey, hot, 401.
Scrambled eggs —
Canapes, eggs on, 272.
Peas with, 272.
Scullery maid, duties of, 25.
Selection of fish, meats, poultry, and game, 65-
66.
Servants —
Dinner table service, 46, 49, 53, 57.
Discharge regulations, 4-5.
Dout's for servants, 35-36.
Duties of, 3-38.
Household of six servants, 18, 28-31.
Household of two servants, 32.
Large establishment, 8-27.
Engagement of, 3-4, 6, 33.
Exactions toward one another, 6.
General servant, duties of, 32.
Leaving situations, regulations, 4-5.
Leisure time off duty, 37-33.
Management of household, indorsement by
head, 6.
Eeferences, 5-6.
Eights of, 3-7.
[See also names of servants, Butler, Cook,
etc.]
Servants' hall —
Meal hours in, 38.
Necessity of, 37.
Serving-table for dining room, 47, 48, 52.
Shad —
Broiled shad a l'Abb6, 118.
Planked, 113.
Roast, with sauce, 114.
Eoe —
Baked, 114.
Cromeskies, 114.
Sauce, 115.
Shallots, keeping, 39.
Sherbet —
Lemon, 329.
Orange, 330.
Sherry —
Decanting, 63.
Serving, 58, 59, 64.
Sherry cobbler, 406.
Shortcake —
Baked apple, 300.
Peach, 300.
Eed raspberry, 300.
Strawberry, 299.
Oneida, 300.
Shredded cod, baked, with cream sauce, 104.
Shrimps —
Creamed, 134.
Baked with green peppers, 133.
Sauce, 217.
Shrub —
Currant, 405.
Lemon, 405.
Easpberry, 405.
Sideboard in dining room, 4T.
Silk, cleaning fluid for, 42.
SUver —
Cleaning, 15.
Storing, 42.
Silver and gold cake, 356.
Simple popovers, 364.
Sink, care of, 23, 24,
Smelts —
Baked, 120.
Broiled, 120.
Croquettes, 121.
Fried a la Parisienne, 120.
Stuflfed, 121.
Snipe, roast, 205.
Snow eggs, 324.
Snow pudding, 324.
Soap jelly, making, 43.
Soda, cleaning properties of, 41.
Soda lemonade, 401.
Soft molasses cake, 354.
Sole —
Fillets of, 118.
A la Venitienne, 116.
Chartreuse offish a la Hauraise, 119.
Sandwich, 265.
Normande, 117.
Sorrel soup, 100.
Souffles —
Apricot sauce with, 301.
Cheese, 301.
Chocolate, 302.
Custard, 303.
Lemon, 302.
Prune, 302.
Soups —
Asparagus, 92.
Barley, see that title.
Bean, see that title.
Beef, 76.
Beet, 94.
Bisques, see that title.
Black bean, 93.
Bouillon, 73 ; court bouillon, 101.
Broth, see that title.
Brunoise, 78.
Cauliflower, 94.
Chestnut, 95.
Clam chowder, 87.
Consomm6 with vegetables, 80.
INDEX
429
Soups, continued —
Corn, 95.
Cream soups, see that title.
Cucumber, 95.
Curry, 77.
Dubarry, 88,
Egg, 95.
Fish chowder, 88.
Flemish, 78.
French mock turtle, 83.
Green turtle, 85.
Gumbo, see that title.
Hollandaise, 79.
Julienne, 79.
Making, directions for, 68.
Mock turtle soup, see that title.
Mulligatawny, 84,
Mushroom, 96.
Mutton, 77.
Oatmeal, 98.
Ox-tail, 77.
Pot au feu, 74-76.
Purees, see that title.
Saratoga, 99.
Serving, 52, 57.
Split pea, 98.
Sorrel, 100.
Stock, boiling, 67.
Sudden call, 91.
Tomato, see that title.
White broth, 79.
Sour cabbage, colonial, 237.
Spaghetti —
Boiled, 245.
Tomato sauce with, 255.
Spanish dishes —
Omelette, 273.
Kice, 255.
Sauce, 218.
Tomatoes, 257,
Spice-box, replenishing, 23.
Spice cake, 357.
Spiced fruit —
Peaches, 887.
Pears, 387,
Spinach —
Boihng, 67,
Cream of spinach soup, 98,
Eggs in nest of, 268,
Puree of, 218.
Timbale, 256.
Toast, spinach on, 255.
Spirits, see names of spirits.
Split pea soup, 98.
Sponge —
Cake, 357-858.
Baking, 68.
Hot water, 368.
Sponge, contimied —
Gingerbread, 350.
Pudding —
Batter, 298.
Sauce with, 298.
Spoons, arrangement on dinner table, 50.
Sprouts —
Boiling, 66.
Brussels sprouts, see that title.
Kale sprouts with corned beef, 149.
Squab —
Ballottines of, 203.
Broiling, 69.
Square table for dinner party, inconvenience
of, 46.
Squash, boiling, 67.
Stablemen, duties of, 26-27.
Starch, making, 44.
Steak, see Beefsteak.
Steaming —
Duck, steamed, with turnip, 200.
Time-table for, 69.
Stews and stewed dishes —
Beef kidney, 151.
Calf's liver, 161.
Irish stew, 171.
Lobster, 135.
Mushrooms, 246.
Mutton, 168.
Okra, 248.
Oysters k la Baltimore, 86.
Peas, 203, 250.
Potatoes, 252.
Terrapin, 141-142.
Tongue, 150.
Tripe with tomatoes, 152.
Stone fence, beverage, 406.
Store-room, supplies for and care of, 38-39.
Storing —
Butter, 72.
Earthen jars for storing, 39, 379.
Flannels, 43.
Milk, 72.
Silver, 42.
Vegetables, 89.
Strawberry —
Bavaroise, 332.
Fritters, 293.
Ice, 333.
Iced comp6te, 333.
Meringue, 321.
Nesselrode, 338.
Preserve, 388,
Punch, 333.
Shortcake, 299.
Oneida, 300.
Tapioca, 304.
Vinegar, 406.
430
INDEX
String beans, boiling, 66.
Striped bass, palraettes of, 102.
Stuffed dishes —
Beefsteak, 144.
Cabbage, 236.
Cucumbers, 241, 390.
Egg plant, 242.
Eggs, 275.
Forcemeat, see that title.
Mushrooms, 246.
Onions, 249.
Oysters, 125.
Pompano, 108.
Eoast goose, 199.
Smelts, 121.
Tomatoes, 257.
Stuffing, see Forcemeat.
Succotash, cooking, 256.
Sucking pig a la Russe, 177.
Sudden call soup, 91.
Suet pudding, 303.
Sugar —
Caramel, 287.
Cookies, 345-346.
Maple sugar, see that title.
Sugared popcorn, 384.
Sunshine cake, 359.
Supreme sauce, 219.
Surprise pastry, 375.
Sweet flour fritters, 293.
Sweet potatoes —
Croquettes, 253.
Wined, 254.
Sweetbreads —
Baked, 158.
Brown sauce with, 158.
Croquettes with sauce, 159.
Jardiniere with sauce, 157.
Patties, 159.
Scalloped, 159.
Timbale, 160.
Swiss rarebit, 279.
Syllabub —
Pineapple, 331.
Eeform, 326.
Syrup —
Chocolate, 395.
Gum, 400.
Rose leaves, fastening to cake, syrup for.
Tables —
Decorations, 48.
Luncheon table, 59.
Serving-table, 47, 48, 52.
Setting for dinner, 50.
Suitable for dinner party, 46.
Table service at dinner, see dinner-giving.
Tapioca —
Cream, 304.
Peach, 304.
Pudding, 304.
Strawberry, 304.
Tartare sauce, 219.
Baked eels with, 123.
Tea, making, 406.
Russian tea, 406.
Steeping tea, 67.
Teapot, cleaning, 41.
Terrapin —
A la Chamberlin, 142.
Chicken, 191.
Stewed, 141-142.
Timbale —
Cheese, 277.
Chicken, 192.
A la Hyde, 194.
Crabs, 131.
Egg, 269.
Lobster, 139.
A la Maryland, 137.
Rice, 322.
Spinach, 256.
Tongue, with sauce, 150.
Turkey livers, with bread mixture, 198.
Sweetbread, 160.
Time-table for cooking —
Baking, 68.
Boiling, 66.
Broiling, 69.
Frying, 69.
Roasting, 68.
Steaming, 69.
Tinware, cleaning, 41.
Toast —
Spinach on toast, 255.
Tomato, with mushrooms, 259.
Tom and Jerry, 407.
Tom gin cocktail, 396.
Tomatoes —
Baked, 259.
Boiled, 67.
Broiled, 257.
Devilled, 258.
Farcie, 258.
Fried, 257.
Green tomato pickle, 892.
Mushrooms with, 259.
Omelette, 274.
Sauce, 219.
Crab farcie, 132.
Egg chops with, 267.
Fried mushrooms with, 247.
Spaghetti with, 255.
Stewed okra with, 248.
INDEX
431
Tomatoes, continued —
Soup, 99.
Cream of tomato, 99.
Maigre, 100.
Spanish, 257.
Stewed tripe with, 152.
Stuffed, 257.
Stuffing for peppers, 251.
Toast with mushrooms, 259.
Tongue —
Boiling, 67 ; with chicken, 186.
Stew, 150.
Tlmbale with sauce, 150.
Tripe —
Baked, 151.
Broiled, 69.
Fried, 151.
Stewed, with tomatoes, 152.
Trout —
Aspic of, 230.
Baked salmon trout, 112.
Broiled, 116.
Brook trout, see that title.
Fried, mountain style, 116.
Truffles —
Forcemeat of, 2S1.
Koast capon with, 195.
Tumblers, arrangement on dinner table, 50.
Turbot a la creme, 121.
Turkey —
Broiled turkey giblets, 198.
Devilled turkey legs, 197.
Roast turkey, 68 ; with oysters, 196.
Scalloped, 197.
Selection of, 66.
Timbale of livers with bread mixture, 198.
Virginia boned turkey, 197 ; stuffing, 282.
Turnip —
Boiled, 67.
Dice, 260.
Mashed, 259.
Steamed duck with, 200.
Turtle, see Green turtle. Mock turtle, and Ter-
rapin.
Tutti frutti ice-cream, 334.
Union Club salad dressing, 223.
Useful man, duties of, 17, 29, 30, 81.
Utica baked apple sauce, 285,
Valet —
Duties of, 13.
Room for use of. 4, 13.
Vanilla —
Bavaroise, 808.
Ice-cream, 335.
Veal —
A la Cadet, 153.
Veal, continued —
A la Marengo, 155.
Boiled, 67.
Cutlets —
A la Polonaise, 154.
London fashion, 154.
Puree of cucumber with, 154.
Forcemeat for fish, 102.
Fricasseed, 152.
Kidney pie, 160.
Knuckle of, with rice, 156.
Loaf, 155.
Pickled, 156.
Flaw, 155.
Potpie with dumplings, 152.
Roast, 68.
Selection of, 65.
Vegetables —
A la Jardiniere, 260.
Consomme with, 80.
Keeping, 39.
"Washing, 24.
{See also names of vegetables.]
Velout6 sauce, 220.
Velvet cakes, 366.
Venison, roast saddle of, 206.
Venitienne sauce, 220.
Vinaigrette sauce, 220.
Vinegar, raspberry and strawberry, 406.
Virginia ham, 176.
Virginia pudding, 305.
Vu-ginia wafers, 365.
Virginia boned turkey, 197 ; stuffing, 282.
Wafers —
Oatmeal, 354, 371,.
Virginia, 365.
Waffles, making, 368.
Charlotte a la Tortoni, 325.
Glaze for, 825.
Waitresses —
Dinner table service, 49, 54.
Duties of, 17-18, 28, 82.
Walled chicken, 188.
Walnut —
Creams, 382.
Croquettes, 179.
Ice-cream, 335.
Washing —
Blankets, 43.
ChaUies, 44.
Dishes, 23, 24.
Flannels. 43.
Laundress, duties of, 21-22, 31-32.
Linen, 21-22.
Starch, making, 44.
Vegetables, 24.
Washington, Lady, pudding, 316.
432
INDEX
Water, see Hot water.
Wedding cake —
Black cake, 341.
Bride's cake, 341.
Weighing, directions for, 72.
Weights and measures, 70.
Welsh rarebit, 278-279.
Westphalian coffee cake, 344.
Wheat flour griddle cakes, 369.
Whey, wine, 403.
Whipped lemon jelly, 315.
Whips, making, 407.
Whiskey —
Cocktail, 396.
Hot Scotch, 401.
Punch, 404.
White-bait, fried, 122.
White Bordelaise sauce, 203.
White broth, 79.
White cabbage salad, 224.
White cake, 359.
White House canapes, 133.
White paint, cleaning, 40.
Whitefish, baked, 122.
White sauce, 221.
Wild goose, baked, 199.
Window glass, making opaque, 40.
Wines —
Butler's duties, 58, 61.
Charge of, in large establishments, 11, 14.
Decanting, 61.
Egg, 400.
Innocent, 407.
JeJly, 315-316.
Mulled, 408.
Peaches, wined, 330.
Sauce, 221.
Serving, 58-60, 63-64.
Sweet potatoes, Avined, 254.
Warming, 64.
Whey, 408.
[See also names of wines.]
Wintergreen berry jam a la Polonaise, 889.
Woodcock —
Roast, 205.
Selecting, 66.
Woollen goods, cleaning fluid for, 42.
Yeast, potato, 362.
Yellow sauce, 221.
Yorkshire pudding, 145.
ELEMENTS OF THE THEORY AND
PRACTICE OF COOKERY
A Text-book on Domestic Science for use in Grammar Schools. By MARY
E. WILLIAMS, Supervisor of Cooking, New York Public Schools, and
KATHARINE ROLSTON FISHER.
Cloth. i2mo. Illustrated. $i.oo, net.
" After a careful review, I gladly give my hearty indorsement of the work and
think it would be of inestimable value in all school kitchens. The various subjects
are taken up in so systematic a manner, the whole so simply treated and facts care-
fully explained, that it might be used by the youngest pupils."
— Mary Adeline Hackett,
Instructor of Cookery in Public Schools, Worcester, Alass.
DOMESTIC SERVICE
By LUCY MAYNARD SALMON. Cloth. 8vo. $2.00
" This is an admirable analysis of the difficulties, advantages, and disadvantages
of domestic service, with illustrations and statistics drawn from a careful investiga-
tion by the author and from government reports. The book should be carefully
studied by all who believe that the family is the primary agency for social reform
and progress, and that public health and happiness wait for the advancement of the
industrial methods." — The Dial (Chicago).
HANDBOOK OF DOMESTIC SCIENCE
AND HOUSEHOLD ARTS
For use in Elementary Schools. Edited by LUCY LANGDON WILL-
IAMS, Ph.D., of the Philadelphia Normal School, with a Preface
by MRS. ELLEN H. RICHARDS, of the Massachusetts Institute
of Technology, and with Chapters contributed by other well-known
specialists. A Manual for Teachers. Cloth. i2mo. $1.00, net.
A Reader. Cloth. i2mo. 60 cents, net.
THE ECONOMICS OF MODERN COOK-
ERY ; Or, A Younger Son's Cookery Book
By M. M. MALLOCK. Cloth. i2mo. $1.25
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK
A^
BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY
3 9999 05987 731 4
Boston Public Library
Central Library, Copley Square
Division of
Reference and Research Services
The Date Due Card in the pocket indi-
cates the date on or before which this
book should be returned to the Library.
Please do not remove cards from this
pocket.
JUL i^ '^^'^
Live Music Archive
Librivox Free Audio
Metropolitan Museum
Cleveland Museum of Art
Internet Arcade
Console Living Room
Books to Borrow
Open Library
TV News
Understanding 9/11